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E3 {- :-3. i :- &- º: : : tº º R º- :- sº Sºº º º - º :::::::::::::::: ºś º º sº tº - $º º: º tºº § sº sº sº § º º †º sº § º §º § :::::::::::::::::::: sº º º: §: *№ſsaeſ?, ¿ |-> ",. *** ！！！¿. ™S）-&& §ę38， E. É É 3- ºººººººººº！!！EĽRĘĘĢĒ -№n-r}\！！!！！!！！ §\，\!{| -Ñ A.J. ºf NRJ, & mºrniſmm.ſimº [] 0 (） [] Q { { [] } O Œ (） O T Œ � 0 {] (） [] {} C Q [] [} U žº C C [] Œ 1838 TO 1839 BY ASA GRAY yº º THIS BOOK FORMS PART OF THE ORIGINAL LIBRARY OF THE BOUGHT IN EUROPE is: ł |||||||||U||||||III →·§ § 8· §，&.* — §§§§§ *@§«$ }¿š|- §§§ ș№ſºs， $ $ $ $ $ ! \ . . . . . . . . 2 A. / - voyage OF DISCOVERY NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN, A N D ROUND THE WORLD ; In which the Coaſt of North-weſt America has been carefully examined and accurately ſurveyed s” * *4 - - - r * * * * ~ - . . . . . …” / --------- ** * Z. A’ * f. / e “--- "... + -- - UN DE RTA KEN BY HIS MAJESTY's COMMAND, Principally with a View to aſcertain the exiſtence of any NAvig Ap La CoMMUNICATION between the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans; AND PERFOR MED IN THE YEARS 1790, 1791, 1792, 1793, 1794 AND 1795, - IN THE DISCOVERY SLoop of ITAR, ND,ARMED TENDER, CHATHAM, - UN O E. R. * cºxso OF CAPTAIN GEORGE VANCOUVER. Dedicated, by Permiſſion, to IIIS MAJESTY. + A NEW EDITION, witH CORRECTIONs, ..I LLUST R A T R D WIT H NINETEEN VI EWS AND CHARTS, I.N. S.F.X. POLUMES, VOL. I. -—see & Hºos--—- iſ Dilliºn : - PRINTED FOR John stock DALE, FICCAD II, LY. I 80 ! . T. Gillet, Printer, Saliſbury-ſquare. "['O TH//, /\!/.../Wiſ/. SIR, º YOUR MAJESTY having been graciouſly pleaſed to permit my late brother, CAPTAIN GEORGE WAN- couver, to preſent to YOUR MA- JESTY the narrative of his labours, during the execution of your commands in the Pacific Ocean, I preſume to hope that, ſince it has pleaſed the Divine Providence to withdraw him from YOUR MAJESTY's Service, and from the ſociety of his Friends, before he could avail himſelf of that condeſcen- fion, YOUR MAJESTY will, with the fame benignity, vouchſafe to accept it A 2 from 4 DEDICATION. from my hands, in diſcharge of the me- lancholy duty which has devolved upon mé by that unfortunate event. I cannot but indulge the hope, that the following pages will prove to YOUR MAJESTY, that CAPTAIN VAN couver was not undeſcrving the honour of the truſt repoſed in him; and that he has fulfilled the objećt of his commiſſion from YOUR MAJESTY with diligence and fidelity. . . . . Under the auſpices of YOUR MA- JESTY, the late indefatigable CAPTAIN Cook had already ſhewn that a South- ern Continent did not exiſt, and had aſ: certained the important fact of the near approximation of the Northern Shores of Aſia to thoſe of America. To thoſe great DEDICATION. 3. great diſcoveries, the exertions of CAP- TAIN WAN couv ER will, I truſt, be found to have added the complete certainty that, within the limits of his reſearches on the Continental Shore of North Weſt America, No INTERNAL SEA, OR OTHER NAVIGABLE com MUNICATION whatever exiſts, uniting the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. I have the honour to be, SIR, With the moſt profound reſpect, YOUR MAJESTY's Moſt faithful and devoted Subjećt and Servant, JOHN VANCOUVER. ADVERTISEMENT. † HE Publiſher finds it neceſſary only to ſtate, for the information of the Purchaſers of this new Edition, that the copper-plates of the charts contained in the folio volume, which accompanied the firſt Edition, were all ſtolen, and may therefore be confidered as irrecoverably loſt. The whole of the views, except the headlands “, are retained. The general chart, and that of the New Diſcoveries, &c. are re-engraved, and will, it is conceived, completely ſatisfy the majority of his Readers. It muft, however, be obſerved, that the other charts are indiſpenſably neceſſary for ſuch as may hereafter navigate thoſe ſeas. This Edition has re- ceived throughout the requiſite correótions of the Editor, John VANcouver, Eſq. * Theſe are fix in number, and may be had, price Seven Shil- lings. No 8 ADVERTISEMENT. ! No work has maintained a higher charaćter in the public eſtimation than this Voyage, and the ex- pence of the quarto Edition could alone have pre- vented its being univerſally read. - The loſs of the Plates, has, of courſe, greatly en- hanced the value of the few Copies of the original Edition, which were not at that time ſold. They may, however, be had until Chriſtmas next, with the folio volume of charts at Twelve Guineas; but ſhould any then remain they will be advanced to Fifteen Guineas. PICCAD ILL Y, 26th O&ober, 1801. CONTENTS, C O N T E N T S. A.º. —sees C-23-& eº- FIRST VOLUME. j Page INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . to e º 'º e º º e º e º e e 33 ADVERTISEMENT FROM THE EDITOR. . . . . . . . . 73 BOOK THE FIRST. TRANSACTIONS FROM THE COMIMIENCEMENT OF THE ExPEDITION, UNTIL OUR DEPARTURE FROM OTA- |HEIT E. CHAP. I. Equipment of the Diſcovery and Chatham—Depar- ture from Falmouth—Wiſit and Tranſactions at Teneriffe—Occurrences and Obſervations during the Paſſage to the Cape of Good Hope—Tranſ- ačions there, and departure thence. . . . . . . . . . . . S3 CHAP. II. Departure from Falſe Bay—Death of Neil Cail by the Flux–Proceed towards the Coaſ, of New - Holland 1 O. CONTENTS, Holland—Diſcover King George the Third's Sound—Tranſactions there—Leave King George the Third's Sound—Departure from the Coaſt of New Holland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CHAP. III. Remarks on the Country and Producions on Part of the South-weſt Coaſt of New Holland—Ex- traordinary Devaſtation by Fire—Aftronomical and Nautical Obſervations........... tº e º t e ºs CHAP. IV. Paſſage from the South-weſt Coaſt of New Hol- land—Paſs Van Dieman's Land—Arrival in Duſky Bay, New Zealand–Piolent Storms— Leave Duſky Bay—A violent Storm—Much Water found in the Ship—Part Company with the Chatham—Diſcover the Snares—Proceed towards Otaheite—Arrive and join the Chat- han there. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CHAP. V. Mr. Broughton's Narrative, from the Time of his Separalion to his being joined by the Diſcovery at Otaheite; with ſome Account of Chatham Iſland, and other Iſlands diſcovered on his Paſ- ſage. . . . . . . . . . * * ~ e. e s w a s • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * & Page | | 8 CONTENTS, } | CHAP. VI. → Page lºſt Oloo—Arrival of Pomurrey and Malooara Mahow—Arrival of Taow, Pomurrey's Father —Interview between Taow and his Sons—Sub- miſſion of Taow to Otoo—Entertainments at the Encampment—Pºſt of Poatatou–Death of Ma- how—Excurſion to Oparre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 CHAP. VII. Two Natives puniſhed for Theft—Obſequies of Mahow—Several Articles Stolen — Meaſures for their Recovery—Towereeroo, the Sandwich Iſlander, alſºonds—Brought back by Pomurrey —Suil from Matavai Bay—Charaćier of Po- murrey—His Mºves—Changes in the Govern- ment of Ofaheite—Aftronomical and Nautical Obſervations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 BOOK THE SECOND. VISIT THE SAND WICH IS LANDS ; PROCEED TO SUR- VEY THE COAST OF NEW ALBION ; PASS THROUGH AN IN LAND NAVIGATION : TRANSACTIONS AT NOOT KA ; A RRIVE AT PORT ST. FRANCISCO. CHAP. I. Paſſage to the Sandwich Iſlands—A, rive off Owhyhee—Pºſit from Tianna and other Chiefs— - 7 Leave Ji Q. CONTENTS. Leave Towereeroo at Owhyhee—Proceed to Leeward—Anchor in Whytete Bay, in Waohoo —Arrival at Attowai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . rés is tº e CHAP. II. Tranſačlions at Attowai–The Prince and Regent viſit the Ships—Fidelity of the Natives—Obſer- vations on the Change of the ſeveral Governments of the Sandwich Iſlands—Commercial Purſuits of the 4mericans. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SECOND VOLUME, CHAP. III. Paſſage to the Coaſt of America—Find the Main- maſ ſprung—See the Land of New Albion— Proceed along the Coaſt—Fall in with an Ame- zican /eſſel—Enter the ſuppoſed Straits of De Fuca—Anchor there. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CHAP. IV. Proceed up the Straits—Anchor under New Dum- geneſs—Remarks on the Coaſt of New Albion —Arrive in Port Diſcovery—Tranſactions there ! . 3. —Boat CONTENTS. 13 —Boat Excurſion—Quit Port Diſcovery—Aſ- tronomical and Nautical Obſervations CHAP. V. Deſcription of Port Diſcovery and the adjacent Country—Its Inhabitants—Method of depoſiting the Dead—Conječiures relative to the apparent Depopulation of the Country. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 OO CHAP. VI. Enter Admiralty Inlet—Anchor off Reſtoration Point—Pºſt an Indian Pillage—Account of ſeveral Boat Excurſions—Proceed to another Part of the Inlet—Take Poſſeſſion of the Coun- *} . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 16 CHAP. VII. Quit Admiralty Inlet, and proceed to the North- ward—Anchor in Birch Bay—Proſecute the Survey in the Boats—Meet two Spaniſh Peſſels —Aftronomical and Nautical Obſervations. . . . . 171 CHAP. VIII. The P'effels continue their Route to the Northward —Anchor in Deſolation Sound—The Boats diſ. patched on Surveying Parties—Diſcover a Paſ- *Jage to Sea— Quit Deſolation Sound –Paſs through Johnſtone's Straits. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 I Š */ 14 * CONTENTS. CHAP. IX, Paſs through Broughton's Archipelago, to purſue Page the Continental Shore—The Peſſels get aground —Enter Fitzhugh's Sound—Reaſons for quit- CHAP. X. Paſſage from Fitzhugh's Sound to Nootka—Ar- rival in Friendly Cove—Tranſations there, par- ficularly thoſe reſpecting the Ceſſion of Nootka —Remarks on the Commerce of North-weſt America—Aſéronomical Obſervations. . . . . . . . . CHAP. XI. Depart from Nootka Sound—Proceed to the South- ward along the Coaſt—The Daedalus enters Gray's Harbour—The Chatham enters Colum- £ia River—Arrival of the Diſcovery at Port St. Franciſco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • er a e THIRD CONTENTS. I 5 T H I R D V O L U M E. BOCK THE THIRD. TRANSACTIONS AT TWO SPANISH SETTLEMENTS IN NEW ALBION: EXAMINATION OF COLUMBIA RIVER; OCCURRENCES ON BOARD THE DAEDALUS ; SECOND VISIT TO THE SAND WICH ISLANDS. CHAP. I. Page Pºſited by a Prieſ; and a Spaniſh Sergeant—The Commandant viſits the Ship—Account of the Miſſions of St. Franciſco and Clara—Arrival of the Chatham—Departure from St. Franciſco —Meet the Daedalus at Monterrey . . . . . . . . . . . . I CHAP. II. Tranſačions at Monterrey—Deſcription of the Miſ: Jºon of St. Carlos-Departure of the Dedalus for Port Jackſon—Situation and Deſcription of Monterrey Bay—Account of the Preſidio—Ge- nerous Conduct of Sen" Quadra—Aftronomical and Nautical Olſervations.................. 51 CHAP. 16 CONTENTS, CHAP. III. - Page Lieutenant Broughton's Account of Columbia River 83 CHAP. IV. Mr. Whidbey's Account of Gray's Harbour— Tranſactions of the Daedalus at the Marqueſas, and at ſome newly-diſcovered Iſlands—Murder of Lieutenant Hergeſ at Woahoo-Arrival of the Dedalus at Nootka...... . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 CHAP. V. Departure of Lieutenant Broughton for England —Progreſs towards the Sandwich Iſlands— Fruitleſs Search for the Iſlands of Los Majos— Arrive at Owhyhee—Pºſited by the Chiefs—An- chor in Karakakooa Bay—Dand the Cattle— Regulations adopted—Account of two Engliſh Seamen reſiding 'on the Iſland–Capture of the Schooner Fair American—Charader of ſome of the leading Chiefs... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 CHAP. VI. Tranſations at Karakakooa Bay—Jºſif from the l?'idow of Terreeoboo—An Indian ſham Fight —Propoſals for a general Peace amongſ; the In- dians—Quit Owhyhee—Aftronomical Obſerva- *ions & © e º ſº a e s - e < * * • * * * * * * * * * * * * * e tº º O & . 244 CONTENTS, 17 CHAP. VII. w - ºr * - Page Arrive off Mowee—Particulars relative to the Murder of Lieutenant Hergeſt, Mr. Gooch, and Others—Converſation reſpecting a Peace with Owhyhee—Reaſons for ſending the Chatham to Nootka—The Peace acceded to by the Chiefs— Information acquired by an Excurſion ºf the Boats—Departure from Mowee . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 CHAP. VIII. Proceed to W.hyteete Bay—An Indian's Account of the Murder at Iſoahoo-Three of the Mur- derers brought on Board—Their Trial and Ewe. cution—Proceed to Attowai–Settle two female Natives found at Nootka–Quit the Sandwich ſands. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 HOOK THE FOURTH. *Nº. second visit to the North ; survey of the AMERICAN coAst FROM FitzHugh's sound to CAPE DECISION; AND FROM MonTERREY To THE souTHERN ExtENT of our INTENDED INvesti- GATION. CHAP. I, Paſſage towards the Coaſt of America—Anchor in Trinidad Bay—Deſcription of the Bay, its In- B habitants, i8 - CONTENTS. - Page habitants, &c. &c.—Arrival at Nootka–Quit Nootka, and proceed to the Northward—Join the Chatham in Fitzhugh's Sound. . . . . . . . . . . . .394 —ee-kee- VOLUME THE FOURTH. CHAP. II. Anchor in Reſtoration Cove--Account of two Boat Expeditions—4tronomical and nautical Obſervations—Proceed to the Northward— Pºſited by many of the Natives—Their Charac- ter—Account of the Boats Excurſion—Seamen poiſoned by Muſcles& © tº e o a tº e º gº tº . . . . . . . . . . . - 1 CHAP. III. The P.eſſels proceed—Paſs through Milbank's Sound, and along the continental Shore—Arrive in a ſmall Cove—Two Boat Parties diſpatched on the Survey—One returns—Account of their Diſcoveries—The Weſſels again proceed—Tedi- ous Navigation—The other Boat Party returns —Their Report. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... 50 CHAP. |CONTENTS, 19 CHAP. IV. Mr. Whidbey again diſpatched with two Boats— Anchor near the Iſle de Gil—Account of Mr. Whidbey's Excurſion—Quit Fiſherman's Cove— Paſs between Banks's Iſland and Pitt's Archi- pelago into the Ocean—Enter Chatham's Sound —Meet three Engliſh Peſſels—Arrive in Olſer- vatory Inlet—Anchor in Salmon Bay—Boats again diſpatched on the Survey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 CHAP. V. An extenſive Boat Excurſion—Party attacked by the Natives—Aftronomical and Nautical Obſer- vations • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * CHAP. VI. Quit Obſervatory Inlet—Proceed to the North- weſt—Deſcription of Port Stewart—Pºſited by the Natives—Account of the two Boat Excur- ſ”. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CHAP. VII. Leave Port Stewart, and proceed to the North- weſtward–Pºſited by the Natives—Port Pro- techion—Account of Boat Excurſions—Proceed to the Southward—Deſcription of Port Protec- \ B 2. tion 12S 2O2 2O CONTENTS. tion--Departure thence-–Paſſage along the J/effern Side of Queen Charlotle's Iſlands to Nootka—Quit Nootka. . . . . . . e o e o e o e o e s • CHAP. VIII. Paſſage to the Southward—The Chatham ſent to Port Bodega—Arrival of the Diſcovery at Port Franciſco—Chatham arrives there—Account of her Proceedings—Proceed to Monterrey—Join- ed by the Daedalus—Conduc; of the Governor— Proceed to the Southward—Anchor at S** Bar- Bara—Pºſt Bueno P'entura—Proceed along the Coaſt to the Southward—Arrive at St. Diego and the adjacent Iſlands—Aftronomical and nautical Obſervations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CHAP. IX. Proceed to the Southward—Deſcription of the Coaſt—Some Account of Port Bodega—Brief Account of the Spaniſh Settlements in New Al- * . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . FIFTH Page 248 CONTENTS, Q 1 F I F T H V O L U M E. BOOK THE FIFTH. THIRD visit To THE SANDw ICH ISLANDS—con club E THE SURVEY OF THE COAST OF NoFTH-west AME- RICA. CHAP. I. Page Leave the Coaſt of New Albion—Arrive off the Eaſt Point of Owhyhee—Examine JPhyeatea Bay—Pºſited by Tamaahmaah—Proceed to Ka- rakakooa Bay—Tranſačlions there—Departure of the Daedalus for New South Wales. . . . . . . . 1 CHAP. II. Sequel of Tranſačlions at Karakakooa—Ceſſion of the Iſland of Owhyhee—Affronomical and mau- tical Obſervations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 CHAP. III. Quit Karakakooa—Piſit Tyahtafood and Teoaigh Bays–Some Deſcription of the Anchorage at thoſe Places—Examine the northern Sides of Mowee, J/oahoo, and Attowai–Obſervations O?! 22, . contre NTs. Pagre on the Anchorage at Attowai and Onehow— Leave the Sandwich Iſlands. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 CHAP. IV. Quit the Sandwich Iſlands—Part Company with the Chatham—Indications of Land—See Tſche- rikow Iſland–Paſs Trinity Iſles—Proceed along the Coaſ–Enter and proceed up Cook's River 140 CHAP. V. Tºngerous Situation of the Ship in Conſequence of Ice—Examination of the upper Part of Cook's River—Its final Termination proving it to be only an extenſive Arm of the Sea, it obtains the Name of Cook's Inlet—Joined by the Chatham —Mr. Puget's Narrative during the Separation of the two Peſſels–Pºſited by Ruſſians—Quit Cook's Inlet—Aftronomical and nautical Obſer- vaſions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 CHAP. VI. Paſſage from Cook's Inlet to Prince William's Sound—Meet a large Fleet of Canoes—Spring the Bowſprit in a Gale of Wind—Carry away the Fore-yard—Arrive in Port Chalmers—Sur- vey of Prince William's Sound by the Boats— A violent Storm—Pºſited by a few Ruſſians— Some Account of their Eftabliſhments in the - Sound CONTENTS, 23 Sound—Chatham diſpatched to continue the Sur- vey of the Coaſt eaſtward from Cape Hinchin- brook—Aſtronomical and nautical Obſervations CHAP. VII. Quit Prince //illiam's Sound—Geographical and other Obſervations reſpecting the adjacent Coun- try and its Inhabitants–Proceed in the Exami- nation of the exterior Coaſt—Paſs Port Mul- grave—Intelligence received of the Survey hav- ing been completed to that Station by the Chat- ham—Arrive in Croſs Sound—Joined by the Chatham there. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (CHAP. VIII. Mr. Puget's Narrative of his Tranſactions and Survey of the Coaſt, between Prince William's and Croſs Sounds; during the Chatham’s Sepa- ration from the Diſcovery. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CHAP. IX. Tranſactions in Croſs Sound—Proceed to Sea— Account of a Boat Excurſion—Deſcription of Port Althorp and Croſs Sound—Aſtronomical Page 255 323 and nautical Obſervations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 : G 34 CONTENTs, SIXTH volumE. CHAP. X. Proceed to the Southward along the exterior Čoaft of King George the Third's Archipelago—Ar- rive in Port Concluſion—Tranſactions there— Two Boat Excurſions—Complete the Survey of #he continental Shores of North-ſ/eff America —Affronomical and nautical Obſervations. . . . . BOOK THE SIXTH. PASSAGE TO THR SOUTHWARD ALONG THE WESTERN CoAST OF AMERICA; DOUBLE CAPE HORN ; Touch AT ST. HELENA ; ARRIVE IN ENGLAND. CHAP. H. pepart from Port Concluſion—Arrive at Nootka —Tranſactions there—Piſt Maquima at Tah- ſheis—Aftronomical Obſervations for correółing the Survey between Cape Douglas and Cape Deciſion. . . . . . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . © CHAP. II. Depart from Nootka Sound—Piolent Storm—Ar- rive at Monferrey—Receive on Board the De- ſerters 59 CONTEXT8. 25 ſerters from the Chatham and Daedalus—Excur- Page ſon into the Country—Examine a very remark- able Mountain—Aſtronomical and nautical Ob- ſervations, e e s e e s e o 0 e º 'º' " • * * * * * * * tº e º 'º & • ſe CHAP. III. Leave Monterrey-–Some Account of the three Marias Iſlands—Proceed to the Southward— Aftronomical and nautical Obſervations. . . . . . . UHAP. IV. pºſit the Iſland of Cocos—Some Deſcription of that Iſland–Aſtronomical and nautical Obſer- vations there—Proceed to the Southward–Paſs Between ſpenman's and Culpepper's Iſlands— See the Gallipagos Iſlands, and aſcertain their Situation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tº º CHAP. V. Proceed to the Southward–The Diſcovery ſprings her Main-maſt—Scurvy makes its Appearance —Paſs the Iſlands of Maſafuero and Juan Fer- mandez—Arrive at Palparaíſo–Pºſit St. Jago, the Capital of Chill. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CHAP. VI. Quit Palparaiſo—Proceed to the Southward—Paſs to the South of Cape Horn—Uſeleſs Search for 96 1.59 2 : 3 Aſia 26 - conteNTs. Page Iſla Grande—Part Company with the Chatham —Arrive at St. Helena—Join the Chatham there—Capture the Macaſar Dutch Eaſt India- man—Aftronomical and nautical Obſervations Leave St. Helena—Proceed to the Northward —Diſcover a Number of Peſſels under Convoy of His Majeſty's Ship Sceptre—Join the Convoy, and proceed with it to the Shannon–Diſcovery proceeds from thence to the River Thames. ... 341 Notes and Miſcellaneous Obſervations. . . . . . . . . . 387 LIST LIST OF PLATES. VOL. I. Chart ſhewing Part of the Coaſt of N. W. America - - <- º º * Chart of New Diſcoveries in the S. W. Coaſt of New Holland e- - - - emy A deſerted Indian Village º º Ea * VOL. II. Four remarkable ſupported Poles tº: “º Mount Rainier º sº tº . gº & Village of the Friendly Indians - tº º Cheſlakees Village º -> 㺠i- tº- . The Diſcovery on the Rocks & * > º- Friendly Cove ſº º tºº t- tº gº VOL. III. Miſſion of St. Carlos º wº º wº VOL. IV. Salmon Cove aº º * \ts £º º New Eddyſtone t- kłº Cº- ee tº gº Preſidio of Monterrey cº se 16. 175 77 I 34 234 269 3oo 336 17 I 26 I6o 306 VOL. 28 J.IST OF PLATES, VOL. V. \ w t Page Crater on the Summit of Mount Worroray - #3 Port Dick © * • tº- - 255 Icy Bay, and Mount St. Elias - * * 349 WOL, WI. Remarkable Mountain near Monterrey - - 12 3 Town of Valparaiſo gº º wº - - 236 Village of Almandrel * - - - 253 VOYAGE Page Missing in Original Volume Page Missing in Original Volume Page Missing in Original Volume Page Missing in Original Volume INTRODUCTION. J IN contemplating the rapid progreſs of im- provement in the ſciences, and the general diffuſion of knowledge ſince the commencement of the eighteenth century, we are unavoidably led to obſerve, with admiration, that active ſpi- rit of diſcovery by means of which the remoteſt regions of the earth have been explored; a friendly communication opened with their inhabitants; and various commodities, of a moſt valuable na- ture, contributing either to relieve their neceſ- ſities, or augment their comforts, introduced among the leſs-enlightened part of our ſpecies. A mutual intercourſe has been alſo eſtabliſhed, in many inſtances, on the ſolid baſis of a reciprocity of benefits; and the produćtive labour of the ci- vilized world has found new markets for the diſ- poſal of its manufactures. Nor has the balance of trade been wholly againſt the people of the newly-diſcovered countries; for, whilſt ſome have been enabled to ſupply their viſitors with an abundance of food, and the moſt valuable re- VoI. I. * C freſhments, 34 . J N T ſtC) DUCTION. freſhments, in exchange for iron, copper, uſeful implemeets, and articles of ornament; the in- duſtry of others has been ſtimulated to procure the ſkins of animals, and other articles of a com- mercial nature; which they have found to be eagerly ſought for by the traders who now reſort to their ſhores from Europe, Aſia, and the eaſ- tern ſide of North America. The great naval powers of Europe, inſpired with a deſire not only of acquiring, but alſo of communicating, knowledge, had extended their reſearches, in the 16th and 17th centuries, as far into the Pacific Ocean as their limited infor- mation of the geography of the earth, at that time, enabled them to penetrate. Some few at- tempts had alſo been made by this country to- wards the concluſion of each of thoſe centuries; but it was not until the year 1764 that Great Britain, benefiting by the experience of former enterprizes, laid the foundation for that vaſt ac- ceſſion of geographical knowledge which ſhe has ſince obtained, by the perſevering ſpirit of her ſucceſſive diſtinguiſhed circumnavigators. By the introduction of nautical aſtronomy into marine INTRODUCTION. 35 marine education, we are taught to ſail on the hypothenuſe, inſtead of traverfing two ſides of a triangle, which was the uſage in earlier times; by this means, the circuitous courſe of all voyages from place to place is conſiderably ſhortened; and it is now become evident, that ſea officers of the moſt common-rate abilities, who will take the trouble of making themſelves acquainted with the principles of this ſcience, will, on all ſuitable occaſions, with proper and correót in- ftruments, be enabled to acquire a knowledge of their ſituation in the Atlantic, Indian, or Pacific Oceans, with a degree of accuracy ſufficient to ſteer on a meridional or diagonal line, to any known ſpot; provided it be ſufficiently conſpi- cuous to be viſible at any diſtance from five to ten leagues. This great improvement, by which the moſt remote parts of the terreſtrial globe are brought ſo eaſily within our reach, would nevertheleſs have been comparatively of little utility, had not thoſe happy means been diſcovered, for pre- ſerving the lives and health of the officers and teamen engaged in ſuch diſtant and perilous un- C 2 dertakings; 36 INTRODUCTION. dertakings; which were ſo ſucceſsfully praćtiſed by Captain Cook, the firſt great diſcoverer of this ſalutary ſyſtem, in all his latter voyages round the globe. But in none have the effects of his wiſe regulations, regimen, and diſcipline, been more manifeſt, than in the courſe of the expedi- tion of which the following pages are deſigned to treat. To an unremitting attention, not only to food, cleanlineſs, ventilation, and an early ad- miniſtration of antiſeptic proviſions and medi- cines, but alſo to prevent, as much as poſſible, the chance of indiſpoſition, by prohibiting indi- viduals from careleſsly expoſing themſelves to the influence of climate, or unhealthy indul- gences in times of relaxation, and by relieving them from fatigue and the inclemency of the weather the moment the nature of their duty would permit them to retire; is to be aſcribed the preſervation of the health and lives of ſeafar- ing people on long voyages. Inſtead of veſſels re- turning from parts, by no means very remote, with the loſs of one half, and ſometimes two-thirds of their crews, in conſequence of ſcorbutic and other contagious diſorders; inſtances are now not want- 2 - ing INTRODUCTION. 37 ing of laborious ſervices having been performed in the moſt diſtant regions, in which, after an abſence of more than three or four years, during which time the veſſels had been ſubjected to all the viciſſitudes of climate, from the ſcorching heat of the torrid zone to the freezing blaſts of the arótic or antarétic circles, the crews have re- turned in perfeót health, and conſiſting nearly of every individual they had carried out; whilſt thoſe who unfortunately had not ſurvived, either from accident or diſeaſe, did not exceed in num- ber the mortality that might reaſonably have been expected, during the ſame period of time, in the moſt healthy ſituations of this country. To theſe valuable improvements, Great Britain is, at this time, in a great meaſure indebted, for her preſent exalted ſtation amongſt the nations of the earth; and it ſhould ſeem, that the reign of George the Third had been reſerved by the - Great Diſpoſer of all things, for the glorious taſk of eſtabliſhing the grand key-ſtone to that ex- panſive arch, over which the arts and ſciences ſhould paſs to the furthermoſt corners of the earth, for the inſtruction and happineſs of the C 3 moſt * 38 INTRODUCTION. moſt lowly children of nature. Advantages ſo highly beneficial to the untutored parts of the human race, and ſo extremely important to that large proportion of the ſubjećts of this empire who are brought up to the ſea ſervice, deſerve to be juſtly appreciated; and it becomes of very little importance to the bulk of ſociety, whoſe enlightened humanity teaches them to entertain a lively regard for the welfare and intereſt of thoſe who engage in ſuch adventurous undertakings for the advancement of ſcience, or for the exten- ſion of commerce, what may be the animadver- ſions or ſarcaſms of thoſe few unenlightened minds that may peeviſhly demand, “what be- “ neficial conſequences, if any, have followed, “ or are likely to follow, to the diſcoverers, or “ to the diſcovered, to the common intereſts of “humanity, or to the increaſe of uſeful know- “ ledge, from all our boaſted attempts to ex- “ plore the diſtant receſſes of the globe " The learned editor,” who has ſo juſtly anticipated this injudicious remark, has, in his very comprehen- five introdućtion to Captain Cook's laſt Voyage, * Dr. Douglas, now Biſhop of Saliſbury. , from INTRODUCTION. 39 from whence the above quotation is extracted, given to the public, not only a complete and fa- tisfactory anſwer to that queſtion, but has treated every other part of the ſubjećt of Diſcovery ſo ably, as to render any further obſervations on former voyages of this deſcription totally unne- ceſſary, for the purpoſe of bringing the reader acquainted with what had been accompliſhed, previouſly to my being honored with his Ma- jeſty's commands to follow up the labours of that illuſtrious navigator Captain James Cook; to whoſe ſteady, uniform, and indefatigable atten- tion to the ſeveral objećts on which the ſucceſs of his enterprizes ultimately depended, the world is indebted for ſuch eminent and important be- nefits. Thoſe benefits did not long remain unnoticed by the commercial part of the Britiſh nation. Remote and diſtant voyages being now no longer objects of terror, enterprizes were projected, and carried into execution, for the purpoſe of eſtab- liſhing new and lucrative branches of commerce between North Weſt America and China; and parts of the coaſt of the former that had not been - C 4 minutely 40 INTRODUCTION, minutely examined by Captain Cook, became now the general reſort of the perſons thus engaged. Unprovided as theſe adventurers were with proper aſtronomical and nautical inſtruments, and having their views directed almoſt intirely to the objećt of their employers, they had neither the means, nor the leiſure, that were indiſpen- ſably requiſite for amaſſing any certain geogra- phical information. This became evident, from the accounts of their ſeveral voyages given to the public; in which, notwithſtanding that they poſitively contradićted each other, as well in geographical and nautical facts as in thoſe of a commercial nature, they yet agreed in filling up the blanks in the charts of Captain Cock with extenſive iſlands, and a coaſt apparently much broken by numberleſ inlets, which they had left almoſt intirely unexplored. The charts accompanying the accounts of their voyages, repreſenting the North Weſt coaſt of America to be ſo much broken by the waters of the Pacific Ocean, gave encouragement once more to. hypotheſes ; and the favorite opinion ht had ſlept ſince the publication of Captain - Cook's INTRODUCTION. 41 Cook's laſt voyage, of a north-eaſtern communi- cation between the waters of the Pacific and At- lantic Oceans, was again rouſed from its ſtate of ſlumber, and brought forward with renovated vigour. Once more the Archipelago of St. La- zarus was called forth into being, and its exiſtence almoſt aſſumed, upon the authority of a Spaniſh admiral named De Fonte, De Fonta, or De Fu- entes; and of a Mr. Nicholas Shapely, from Boſ- ton in America, who was ſtated to have penetrat- ed through this archipelago, by ſailing through a mediterranean ſea on the coaſt of North Weſt America, within a few leagues of the oceanic ſhores of that archipelago; where he is ſaid to have met the Admiral. The ſtraits ſaid to have been navigated by Juan De Fuca were alſo brought forward in ſupport of this opinion; and, al- though the exiſtence or extent of theſe diſcove- ries remained ſtill to be proved by an authenti- cated ſurvey of the countries which had been thus ſtated to have been ſeen and paſſed through, yet the enthuſiaſm of modern cloſet philoſºphy, eager to revenge itſelf for the refutation of its former fallacious ſpeculations, ventured to accuſe Cap- tain 42 INTRODUCTION. W tain Cook of “haſtily exploding” its ſyſtems; and, ranking him amongſt the purſuers of peltry, dared even to drag him forward in ſupport of its viſionary conjećtures. * - With what reaſon, or with what juſtice ſuch animadverſions have been caſt upon one, who, unhappily for the world, does not ſurvive to en- force his own judicious opinions founded as they were on the ſolid principles of experience, and of ocular demonſtration, uninfluenced by any prejudice, and unbiaſſed by any pre-conceived theory or hypotheſis; it is not my province to decide: let it ſuffice to ſay, that the labours of that diſtinguiſhed chara&ter will remain a monu- ment of his pre-eminent abilities, and diſpaſſion- ate inveſtigation of the truth, as long as ſcience ſhall be reſpected in the civilized world; or as long as ſucceeding travellers, who ſhall unite in bearing teſtimony to the profundity of his judgment, ſhall continue to obtain credit with the public. - Although the ardour of the preſent age, to diſcover and delineate the true geography of the earth, had been rewarded with uncommon and unexpected JNTRODUCTION. 43 unexpected ſucceſs, particularly by the perſever- ing exertions of this great man, yet all was not completed; and though, ſubſequent to his laſt viſit to the coaſt of North-Weſt America, no expedition had been projećted by Government, for the purpoſe of acquiring a more exact know- ledge of that extenſive and intereſting country; yet a voyage was planned by his Majeſty for ex- ploring ſome of the ſouthern regions; and in the autumn of the year 1789, directions were given for carrying it into effect. Captain Henry Roberts, of known and tried abilities, who had ſerved under Captain Cook during his two laſt voyages, and whoſe attention to the ſcientific part of his profeſſion had afforded that great navigator frequent opportunities of naming him with much reſpect, was called upon to take charge of, and to command, the propoſ- ed expedition. At that period, I had juſt returned from a ſta- tion at Jamaica, under the command of Com- modore (now Vice-Admiral) Sir Alan Gardner, who mentioned me to Lord Chatham and the Board of Admiralty; and I was ſolicited to ac- £OIY) pany 44 INTRODUCTION. company Captain Roberts as his ſecond. In this propoſal I acquieſced, and found myſelf very plea- ſantly fituated, in being thus connected with a fellow-traveller for whoſe abilities I bore the greateſt reſpect, and in whoſe friendſhip and good opinion I was proud to poſſeſs a place. And as we had ſailed together with Captain Cook on his voyage towards the ſouth pole, and as both had afterwards accompanied him with Captain Clerke in the Diſcovery during his laſt voyage, I had no doubt that we were engaged in an ex- pedition, which would prove no leſs intereſting to my friend than agreeable to my wiſhes. A ſhip, proper for the ſervice under contem- plation, was ordered to be provided. In the yard of Meſſrs. Randall and Brent, on the banks of the Thames, a veſſel of 340 tons burthen was nearly finiſhed; and as ſhe would require but few alterations to make her in every reſpect fit for the purpoſe, ſhe was purchaſed; and, on her being launched, was named the Diſcovery. The firſt day of the year 1790 the Diſcovery was commiſſioned by Captain Roberts; ſome of the other officers were alſo appointed, and the ſhip INTRODUCTION. 45 ſhip was condućted to His Majeſty's dock-yard at Deptford, where ſhe was put into a ſtate of equipment; which was ordered to be executed with all the diſpatch that the nature of the ſer- vice required. For ſome time previous to this period the Spa- niards, rouſed by the ſucceſsful efforts of the Britiſh nation to obtain a more extended know- ledge of the earth, had not only ventured to viſit ſome of the newly-diſcovered iſlands in the tropical regions of the Pacific Ocean, but had alſo, in the year 1775, with a ſpirit ſomewhat analogous to that which prompted their firſt diſ- covery of America, extended their reſearches to the northward, along the coaſt of North-Weſt America. But this undertaking did not ſeem to have reached beyond the acquirement of a very ſuperficial knowledge of the ſhores; and though theſe were found to be extremely broken, and divided by the waters of the Pacific, yet it does not appear that any meaſures were purſued by them for aſcertaining the extent to which thoſe waters penetrated into the interior of the American continent. This 46 INTRODUCTION, This apparent indifference in exploring new countries, ought not, however, to be attributed to a deficiency in ſkill, or to a want of ſpirit for en- terprize, in the commander * of that expedition; becauſe there is great reaſon to believe, that the extreme caution which has ſo long and ſo rigidly governed the court of Madrid, to prevent, as much as poſſible, not only their American, but likewiſe their Indian, eſtabliſhments from being viſited by any Europeans, (unleſs they were ſub- jećts of the crown of Spain, and liable to a mi- litary tribunal) had greatly conſpired, with other conſiderations of a political nature, to repreſs that deſire of adding to the fund of geographical knowledge, which has ſo eminently diſtinguiſhed this country. And hence it is not extraordinary, that the diſcovery of a north-weſtern navigable communication between the Atlantic and Pa- cific Oceans, ſhould not have been conſidered as an objećt much to be deſired by the Spaniſh court. Since that expedition, however, the Spa- niards ſeem to have conſidered their former na- tional character as in ſome meaſure at ſtake ; and * Senr Quadra. they INTRODUCTION. 47 they have certainly become more acquainted than they were with the extenſive countries immedi- ately adjoining to their immenſe empire in the new world; yet the meaſures that they adopted in order to obtain that information, were ex- ecuted in ſo defective a manner, that all the im- portant queſtions to geography ſtill remained un- decided, and in the ſame ſtate of uncertainty. Towards the end of April, the Diſcovery was, in moſt reſpects, in a condition to proceed down the river, when intelligence was received that the Spaniards had committed depredations on different branches of the Britiſh commerce on the coaſt of North-Weſt America, and that they had ſeized on the Engliſh veſſels and factories in Nootka ſound. This intelligence gave riſe to diſputes between the courts of London and Ma- drid, which wore the threatening appearance of being terminated by no other means than thoſe of reprizal. In conſequence of this an armament took place, and the further pacific equipment of the Diſcovery was ſuſpended; her ſtores and proviſions were returned to the reſpective offices, and her officers and men were engaged in more aćtive 48 INTRODUCTION. aćtive ſervice. On this occaſion I reſumed my profeſſion under my highly-eſteemed friend, Sir Alan Gardner, then captain of the Courageux, where I remained until the 17th of the Novem- ber following; when I was ordered to repair to town for the purpoſe of attending to the com- mands of the Board of Admiralty. The uncommon celerity, and unparalleled diſ- patch, which attended the equipment of one of the nobleſt fleets that Great Britain ever ſaw, had probably its due influence upon the court of Ma- drid, for, in the Spaniſh convention, which was conſequent on that armament, reſtitution was offered to this country for the captures and ag- greſſions made by the ſubjećts of his Catholic Majeſty; together with an acknowledgment of an equal right with Spain to the exerciſe and proſecution of all commercial undertakings in thoſe ſeas, reputed before to belong only to the Spaniſh crown. The extenſive branches of the fiſheries, and the fur trade to China, being con- ſidered as objećts of very material importance to this country, it was deemed expedient, that an officer ſhould be ſent to Nootka to receive back, 1.Il INTRODUCTION. 49 in form, a reſtitution of the territories on which the Spaniards had ſeized, and alſo to make an accurate ſurvey of the coaſt, from the 30th de- gree of north latitude north-weſtward toward Cook's river; and further, to obtain every poſ- ſible information that could be colle&ted reſpect- ing the natural and political ſtate of that country. The outline of this intended expedition was communicated to me, and I had the honor of being appointed to the command of it. At this junéture it appeared to be of importance, that all poſſible exertion ſhould be made in its equip- ment; and as the Diſcovery, which had been ſe- lećted on the former occaſion, was now rigged, ſome of her ſtores provided, and ſhe herſelf con- ſidered, in moſt reſpects, as a veſſel well calcu- lated for the voyage under contemplation, ſhe was accordingly directed to be got ready for that ſervice; and the Chatham armed tender, of 135 tons burthen, built at Dover, having been deſ- tined to accompany the Diſcovery on the former occaſion, was ordered to be equipped to attend on the voyage now to be undertaken, and was Vol. I, D ſent 50 fMTRODUCTION, ſent to Woolwich to receive ſuch neceſſary re- pairs and alterations as were deemed requiſite. The Diſcovery was copper-faſtened, ſheathed with plank, and coppered over; the Chatham only ſheathed with copper. The former mount- ed ten four-pounders, and ten ſwivels; the latter, four three-pounders and ſix ſwivels. The fol- lowing liſt will exhibit the eſtabliſhment of the officers and men in the two veſſels, Aſt INTRODUCTION. 5 I An Account of the Number of Officers and Men on board the Diſcovery Sloop of War, in December, 1 700. OF FIC E R.S. N O. N AM E. S. . . Captain - - 1 George Vancouver. -- Zachariah Mudge, Lieutenants --> 3 }: Puget, • Joſeph Baker. . Maſter - tºp Joſeph Whidbey. Boatſwain tºº * , . ! Carpenter tº Gunner - sº Surgeon - - Midſhipmen - Maſter's mates Boatſwain's mates Carpenter's mates Gunner's mates Surgeon's mates Carpenter's crew Maſter at arms Corporal is Sail-maker tº Sail-maker's mate Armourer - - Cook º gº Cook's-mate - Clerk ſº * - Quartermaſters Able Seamen - 3 Serjeant - º Corporal - - 1 ; Marines. Privates - -, 14 Total loo An • 52 INTRODUCTION'. - An Account of the Number of Officers and Men on board the Chatham armed Tender, in December, 1790. º , of FICERs. NO, NAMES. Commander 1 Lieut. W. R. Broughton. Lieutenant 1 James Hanſon. Maſter, "... - 1 James Johnſtone. Boatſwain i wº Carpenter. 1 Gunner | Surgeon tº 1. Midſhipmen 4. Maſter's mates 2 Boatſwain's mates 2 Carpenter's mates 2 2 1. 1 I 1 4 O I Gunner's mates Surgeon's mate Sail-maker - Armourer --> Clerk - {-> Quartermaſters Able Seamen I tº- Serjeant tº : * . Privates - 7 ) Marines. Total 45 I had INTRODUCTION, 53 I had great reaſon to be ſatisfied with theſe ar- rangements; the ſecond and third lieutenants, and the maſter of the Diſcovery, whom I had the honor of being allowed to name for this ſervice, had all ſerved ſome years with me, under the command of Sir Alan Gardner, both at home and in the Weſt-Indies; the other officers were men of known character, poſſeſſing good abili- ties, and excellent diſpoſitions, which their ſub- ſequent condućt and zeal, exhibited on all occa- fions, ſufficiently demonſtrated. In the former equipment of the Diſcovery, Captain Roberts and myſelf had undertaken to make all ſuch aſtronomical and nautical obſerva- tions, as the circumſtances occurring in the voyage might demand. This taſk now devolved upon me alone; but with the aſſiſtance of Mr. Whidbey, I entertained little doubt of accom- pliſhing the propoſed objećt, at leaſt in an uſeful manner; for which purpoſe we were ſupplied by the Navy Board with ſuch an affortment of in- ſtruments as I conſidered to be neceſſary. It was with infinite ſatisfaction that I ſaw, amongſt the officers and young gentlemen of -- D 3 the 54 INTRODUCTION. the quarter-deck, ſome who, with little inſtruc- tion, would ſoon be enabled to conſtruct charts, take plans of bays and harbours, draw landſcapes, and make faithful repreſentations of the ſeveral head-lands, coaſts, and countries, which we might diſcover; thus, by the united efforts of our little community, the whole of our proceedings, and the information we might obtain in the courſe of the voyage, would be rendered profitable to thoſe who might ſucceed us in traverſing the remote parts of the globe that we were deſtined to explore, without the aſſiſtance of profeſſional perſons, as aſtronomers or draftſmen. Botany, however, was an objećt of ſcientific inquiry with which no one of us was much ac- quainted; but as, in expeditions of a ſimilar na- ture, the moſt valuable opportunities had been afforded for adding to the general ſtock of bota- nical information, Mr. Archibald Menzies, a furgeon in the royal navy, who had before viſited the Pacific Ocean in one of the veſſels employed in the fur trade, was appointed for the ſpecific purpoſe of making ſuch reſearches; and had, doubtleſs, given ſufficient proof of his abilities, to INTRODUCTION. 65 to qualify him for the ſtation it was intended he ſhould fill. For the purpoſe of preſerving ſuch new or uncommon plants as he might deem worthy of a place amongſt his Majeſty's very va- luable colle&tion of exotics at Kew, a glazed frame was erected on the after part of the quar- ter-deck, for the reception of thoſe he might have an opportunity of collecting. The Board of Admiralty, greatly attentive to our perſonal comforts, gave directions that the Diſcovery and Chatham ſhould each be ſupplied with all ſuch articles as might be conſidered in any way likely to become neceſſary, during the execution of the long and arduous ſervice in which we were about to engage. Our ſtores, from the naval arſenals, were ordered to be ſe- lećted of the very beſt ſorts, and to be made with materials of the beſt quality. In addition to the ordinary eſtabliſhment, we were ſupplied with a large aſſortment of ſeines and other uſeful fiſhing tackle of various kinds. The proviſions were furniſhed at the vićtualling-office with the greateſt care, all of which proved to be excellent, and manifeſted the judgment which had been D 4. exerciſed 56 INTRODUCTION, exerciſed in the ſelection and preparation of the ſeveral articles. To theſe were added a large proportion of four-krout, portable ſoup, wheat inſtead of the uſual ſupply of oatmeal for break- faſt, the eſſence of malt and ſpruce, malt, hops, dried yeaſt, flour, and feed muſtard; which may all be confidered as articles of food. Thoſe of a medicinal nature, with which we were amply ſupplied, were Dr. James's powders; vitriolic elixir; the rob of lemons and oranges, in ſuch quantities and proportions as the ſurgeon thought requiſite; together with an augmentation to the uſual allowance, amounting to a hundred weight, of the beſt peruvian bark. To render our viſits as acceptable as poſſible to the inhabitants of the iſlands or continent in the Pacific Ocean, and to eſtabliſh on a firm baſis a friendly intercourſe with the ſeveral tribes with which we might occaſionally meet, Lord Gren- ville direéted that a liberal affortment of various European commodities, both of a uſeful and or- namental nature, ſhould be ſent on board from the Secretary of State's office. From the Board of Ordnance the veſſels were ſupplied with every - - thing INTRODUCTION. 57 thing neceſſary for our defence, and amongſt other articles were four well-contrived three- pound field pieces, for the protećtion of our little encampment againſt any hoſtile attempts of the native Indians, amongſt whom we ſhould neceſ- ſarily have frequent occaſion to reſide on ſhore; and for the amuſement and entertainment of ſuch as were peaceably and friendly diſpoſed to- wards us, we were furniſhed with a moſt excel- lent affortment of well-prepared fireworks. So that nothing ſeemed to have been forgotten, or omitted, that might, render our equipment as complete as the nature of the ſervice we were about to execute could be conſidered to demand. But as I have hitherto only pointed out in ge- neral terms the outline of the intended expedi- tion ; the various objećts it propoſed to embrace, and the end it was expected to anſwer, will be more clearly perceived by the peruſal of the in- ſtructions under which I was to ſail, and by which I was to govern my condućt; and the reader will be thereby enabled to form a judgment, how far his majeſty's commands, during this voyage, have been properly carried into execution. & 6 By 58 INTRODUCTION. “By the Commiſſioners for executing the office of Lord High Admiral of Great Britain and Ireland, &c. “The KING having judged it expedient, that an expedition ſhould be immediately undertaken for acquiring a more complete knowledge, than has yet been obtained, of the north-weſt coaſt of America; and, the ſloop you command, together with the Chatham armed tender (the Lieutenant commanding which, has been direéted to follow your orders) having been equipped for that ſer- vice; you are, in purſuance of his Majeſty's pleaſure, ſignified to us by Lord Grenville, one of his principal Secretaries of State, hereby re- quired and directed to proceed, without loſs of time, with the ſaid ſloop and tender, to the Sandwich iſlands in the North Pacific Ocean, where you are to remain during the next winter; employing yourſelf very diligently in the exami- nation and ſurvey of the ſaid iſlands; and, as ſoon as the weather ſhall be favorable (which may be expected to be in February, or at lateſt in March, 1792) you are to repair to the north-weſt coaſt of America, for the purpoſe of acquiring ºl. IIl O.I.C. INTRODUCTION . 59. a more complete knowledge of it, as above men- tioned. “It having been agreed, by the late conven- tion between his Majeſty and the Catholic King, (a printed copy of which you will receive here- with) that the buildings and tracts of land, ſitu- ated on the north-weſt coaſt above mentioned, or on iſlands adjacent thereto, of which the ſub- jećts of his Britannic Majeſty were diſpoſſeſſed about the month of April, 1789, by a Spaniſh officer, ſhall be reſtored to the ſaid Britiſh ſub- jećts, the court of Spain has agreed to ſend orders for that purpoſe to its officers in that part of the world ; but as the particular ſpecification of the parts to be reſtored may ſtill require ſome further time, it is intended that the King's orders, for this purpoſe, ſhall be ſent out to the Sandwich iſlands, by a veſſel to be employed to carry thi- ther a further ſtore of proviſions for the ſloop and armed tender above mentioned, which it is meant ſhall ſail from this country in time to reach thoſe iſlands in the courſe of next winter. “If, therefore, in conſequence of the arrange- inent to be made with the court of Spain, it ſhould 60 INTRoduction. ſhould hereafter be determined that you ſhould proceed, in the firſt inſtance, to Nootka, or elſe- where, in order to receive, from the Spaniſh offi- cers, ſuch lands or buildings as are to be reſtored to the Britiſh ſubjećts; orders to that effect will be.ſent out by the veſſel above memtioned. But if no ſuch orders ſhould be received by you pre- vious to the end of J anuary, 1792, you are not to wait for them at the Sandwich iſlands, but to proceed in ſuch courſe as you may judge moſt expedient for the examination of the coaſt above mentioned, comprized between latitude 60° north and 30° north. “In which examination the principal objećts which you are to keep in view are, - “ 1ſt, The acquiring accurate information with reſpect to the nature and extent of any water- communication which may tend, in any conſi- derable degree, to facilitate an intercourſe for the purpoſes of commerce, between the north-weſt coaſt, and the country upon the oppoſite ſide of the continent, which are inhabited or occupied by his Majeſty's ſubjects. - “2dly, The aſcertaining, with as much preci- * - - ſion INTRODUCTION. 61. fion as poſſible, the number, extent, and ſitua- tion of any ſettlements which have been made within the limits above mentioned, by any Eu- ropean nation, and the time when ſuch ſettle- ment was firſt made. “With reſpect to the firſt object, it would be of great importance if it ſhould be found that, by means of any conſiderable inlets of the ſea, or even of large rivers communicating with the lakes in the interior of the continent, ſuch an inter- courſe, as hath been already mentioned, could be eſtabliſhed; it will therefore be neceſſary, for the purpoſe of aſcertaining this point, that the ſurvey ſhould be ſo condućted, as not only to aſ- certain the general line of the ſea coaſt, but alſo the direétion and extent of all ſuch conſiderable inlets, whether made by arms of the ſea, or by the mouths of large rivers, as may be likely to lead to, or facilitate, ſuch communication as is above deſcribed. “This being the principal objećt of the exa- mination, ſo far as relates to that part of the ſub- jećt, it neceſſarily follows, that a confiderable de- gree 62 INTRODUCTION. gree of diſcretion muſt be left, and is therefore left to you, as to the means of executing the ſer- vice which his Majeſty has in view; but, as far as any general inftrućtions can here be given on the ſubjećt, it ſeems deſirable that, in order to avoid any unneceſſary loſs of time, you ſhould not, and are therefore hereby required and di- rećted not to purſue any inlet or river further than it ſhall appear to be navigable by veſſels of ſuch burden as might ſafely navigate the Pacific Ocean: but, as the navigation of ſuch inlets or rivers, to the extent here ſtated, may poſſibly re- quire that you ſhould proceed up them further than it might be ſafe for the ſloop you command to go, you are, in ſuch caſe, to take the com- mand of the armed tender in perſon, at all ſuch times, and in ſuch ſituations as you ſhall judge it neceſſary and expedient. “The particular courſe of the ſurvey muſt depend on the different circumſtances which may ariſe in the execution of a ſervice of this nature; it is, however, proper that you ſhould, and you are therefore hereby required and directed to pay a particular INTRODUCTION. 63 a particular attention to the examination of the ſuppoſed ſtraits of Juan de Fuca, ſaid to be ſitu- ated between 48° and 49° north latitude, and to lead to an opening through which the ſloop Waſhington is reported to have paſſed in 1789, and to have come out again to the northward of . Nootka. The diſcovery of a near communication between any ſuch ſea or ſtrait, and any river running into, or from the lake of the woods, would be particularly uſeful. “If you ſhould fail of diſcovering any ſuch inlet, as is above mentioned, to the ſouthward of Cook's river, there is the greateſt probability that it will be found that the ſaid river riſes in ſome of the lakes already known to the Canadian traders, and to the ſervants of the Hudſon's bay company; which point it would, in that caſe, be material to aſcertain; and you are, therefore, to endeavour to aſcertain accordingly, with as much preciſion as the circumſtances exiſting at the time may al- low: but the diſcovery of any ſimilar communi- cation more to the ſouthward (ſhould any ſuch exiſt) would be much more advantageous for the purpoſes 64 º INTRODUCTION. purpoſes of commerce, and ſhould, therefore, be preferably attended to, and you are, therefore, to give it a preferable attention accordingly. “With reſpect to the ſecond object above mentioned, it is probable that more particular inſtructions will be given you by the veſſel to be ſent to the Sandwich iſlands as aforeſaid; but, if not, you are to be particularly careful in the execution of that, and every other part of the ſer- vice with which you are entruſted, to avoid, with the utmoſt caution, the giving any ground of jealouſy or complaint to the ſubjects of His Ca- tholic Majeſty; and, if you ſhould fall in with any Spaniſh ſhips employed on any ſervice ſimi- lar to that which is hereby committed to you, you are to afford to the officer commanding ſuch ſhips every poſſible degree of aſſiſtance and infor- mation, and to offer to him, that you, and he, ſhould make to each other, reciprocally, a free and unreſerved communication of all plans and charts of diſcoveries made by you and him in your reſpective voyages. If, in the courſe of any part of this ſervice, w you, INTRODUCTION. 65 you, or the officers or the people under your command, ſhould meet with the ſubjećts or veſ- ſels of any other power or ſtate, you and they are to treat them in the moſt friendly manner, and to be careful not to do any thing which may give occaſion to any interruption of that peace which now happily ſubſiſts between His Majeſty and all other powers. “The whole of the ſurvey above mentioned (if carried on with a view to the objećts before ſtated, without too minute and particular an exa- mination of the detail of the different parts of the coaſt laid down by it) may, as it is under- Ítood, probably be completed in the ſummers of 1792 and 1793; and, in the intermediate win- ter, it will be proper for you to repair, and you are hereby required and directed to repair ac- cordingly, to the Sandwich iſlands; and, durs ing your ſtay there, you are to endeavour to complete any part which may be unfiniſhed of your examination of thoſe iſlands. “After the concluſion of your ſurvey in the fummer of 1703, you are, if the ſtate and cir- cumſtances of the ſloop and tender under your VQ L. I. E command 66 r IN'FIRODUCTION's command will admit of it, to return to England. by Cape Horn, (for which the ſeaſon will then probably be favorable;) repairing to Spithead, where you are to remain until you receive fur- ther order; and ſending to our ſecretary an ac- count of your arrival and proceedings. “ It ſeems doubtful, at preſent, how far the time may admit of your making any particular examination of the weſtern coaſt of South Ame- rica; but, if it ſhould be practicable, you are to begin ſuch examination from the ſouth point of the iſland of Chiloe, which is in about 44° ſouth latitude; and you are, in that caſe, to direct your attention to aſcertaining what is the moſt ſouth- ern Spaniſh ſettlement on that coaſt, and what harbours there are ſouth of that ſettlement. “In the execution of every part of this ſer- vice, it is very material that you ſhould uſe, and you are therefore hereby ſtrictly charged to uſe every poſſible care to avoid diſputes with the natives of any of the parts where you may touch, and to be particularly attentive to endeavour, by a judicious diſtribution of the preſents, (which have been put on board the ſloop and tender under INTRODUCTION. 67 under your command, by order of Lord Gren- ville) and by all other means, to conciliate their friendſhip and confidence. Given under our hands the 8th of March, 1791." “CHATHAM. “RD. HoPKINS. “ HooD. “ J. T. Towns END.” “To George Vancouver, Eſq. Commander of His Majeſty's Sloop the Diſcovery, at Fal- imouth.” “By command of their Lordſhips, * PH. STEPHENs.” ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS. “By the Commiſſioners for executing the office of Lord High Admiral of Great Britain and Ireland, &c. “Lieutenant Hergeſt, commanding the Dae- dalus tranſport, (by whom you will receive this) being direéted to put himſelf under your com- mand, and to follow your orders for his further proceedings; you are hereby required and dire&- E 2 ed, 68 INTRODUCTION, { ed, to take him, and the ſaid tranſport, under your command accordingly ; receiving from her the proviſions and ſtores intended for the uſe of the ſloop you command, and the Chatham armed tender, or ſuch part thereof as the ſaid ſhip and tender ſhall be able to ſtow. - “And whereas you will receive herewith a duplicate of a letter from Count Florida Blanca, to the Spaniſh officer commanding at Nootka, (together with a tranſlation thereof) ſignifying His Catholic Majeſty's orders to cauſe ſuch of ficer as may be appointed on the part of His Britannic Majeſty, to be put in poſſeſſion of the buildings, and diſtričís, or parcels of lands therein deſcribed, which were occupied by His Majeſty's ſubjects in the month of April, 1789, agreeable to the firſt article of the late convention, (a copy of which has been ſent to you) and to deliver up any perſons in the ſervice of Britiſh ſubjects who may have been detained in thoſe parts; in caſe, therefore, you fhall receive this at Nootka, you are to deliver to the Spaniſh officer, commanding at that port, the above-mentioned letter from Count Florida Blanca, and to receive from him, conformably INTR-OD UCTION. -69 conformably thereto, on the part of His Britan- nic Majeſty, poſſeſſion of the buildings and diſ- trićts, and parcels of land, of which His Majeſ- ty's ſubjects were poſſeſſed at the above-mention- ‘ed period. - “In caſe, however, this ſhall not find you at Nootka, when Lieutenant Hergeſt arrives there, but be delivered to you at the Sandwich iſlands, or elſewhere, and the ſaid lieutenant ſhall not have then carried into execution the ſervice above- mentioned, (which in the event of his not falling in with you he is direéted to do) you are imme- diately to proceed to Nootka, and to carry that ſervice into execution as above directed, taking the ſaid lieutenant and tranſport with you if you ſhall judge it neceſſary. But as they are intended afterwards to proceed to New South Wales, to be employed there, under the orders of commo- dore Phillip, you are not to detain them at Nootka, the Sandwich iſlands, or elſewhere, longer than may be abſolutely neceſſary, but to direct Lieutenant Hergeſt to repair with the faid tranſport to port Jackſon, with ſuch live ftock, and other refreſhments, as may be likely te E 3 be 70 INTRODUCTION. be of uſe in the ſettlements there ; and to touch at New Zealand in his way, from whence he is to uſe his beſt endeavours to take with him one or two flax-dreſſers, in order that the new ſet- t!ers at port Jackſon may, if poſſible, be pro- perly in the management of that valuable plant. “Previous, however, to your diſpatching him to port Jackſon, you are to conſider whether, in caſe of your not being able to take on board the whole of the tranſport's cargo, any future ſupply of the articles of which it is compoſed, will be neceſſary to enable you to continue your in- tended ſurvey; and, if ſo, you are to be careful to ſend notice thereof to Commodore Phillip, who will have direétions, on the receipt of your application, to re-diſpatch the tranſport, or to fend ſuch other veſſel to you with the remainder of thoſe ſupplies (as well as any others he may be able to furniſh) to ſuch rendezvous as you ſhall appoint. - “And whereas Mr. Dundas has tranſmitted to us a ſketch of the coaſt of North America, extending from Nootka down to the latitude of 47° 30', including the inlet or gulf of Juan de Fuca ; TNTROTDUCTION. 7 1 Fuca ; and as from the declarations which have lately been made, there appears to be the ſtrongeſt diſpoſition on the part of the Spaniſh court, that every aſſiſtance and information ſhould be given to his Britannic Majeſty's officers employed on that coaſt, with a view to the enabling them to carry their orders into execution; we ſend you the ſaid ſketch herewith, for your information and uſe, and do hereby require and direct you to do every thing in your power to cultivate a good underſtanding with the officers and ſubječts of his Catholic Majeſty who may fall in your way, in order that you may reap the good effects of this diſpoſition of the Spaniſh court. “You are to take the utmoſt care in your power, on no account whatever, to touch at any port on the continent of America, to the ſouth- ward of the latitude of 30° north, nor to the north of that part of South America, where, on your return home, you are direéted to com- mence your intended ſurvey; unleſs, from any accident, you ſhall find it abſolutely neceſſary, for your immediate ſafety, to take ſhelter there: and, in caſe of ſuch an event, to continue there E 4 Il Q _** 72 INTRODUCTION. no longer than your neceſſities require, in order that any complaint on the part of - Spain on this point may, if poſſible, be prevented. “ If, during your continuance on the Ameri- can coaſt, you ſhould meet with any of the Chi- neſe who were employed by Mr. Meares and his aſſociates, or any of his Majeſty's ſubjećts, who may have been in captivity, you are to receive them on board the ſloop you command, and to accommodate them in the beſt manner you may be able, until ſuch time as opportunities may be found of ſending them to the different places to which they may be deſirous of being conveyed; vićtualling them during their continuance on board, in the ſame manner as the other perſons on board the ſaid ſloop are vićtualled. Given under our hands the 20th of Auguſt, 1791.” “CHATH AM. “J. T. Towns HEND, - “A. GARDNER,” “To George Vancouver, E/4. - Commander of his Majeſty's Sloop the Diſcovery. r By command of their Lordſhips, PH. STEPHENs.” LETTER INTRODUCTION. 73 LE TTER FROM CO UNT FIL OR ID A B L A N CA. (Tranſlated from the Spani/..) “IN conformity to the firſt article of the con- vention of 28th October, 1790, between our court and that of London, (printed copies of which you will have already received, and of which another copy is here incloſed, in caſe the firſt have not come to hand) you will give direc- tions that his Britannic Majeſty's officer, who will deliver this letter, ſhall immediately be put in poſſeſſion of the buildings and diſtricts, or par- cels of land, which were occupied by the ſub- jects of that ſovereign in April, 1780, as well in the port of Nootka, or of Saint Lawrence, as in the other, ſaid to be called port Cox, and to be ſituated about fixteen leagues diſtant from the former to the ſouthward; and that ſuch parcels or diſtricts of land, of which the Engliſh ſub- jects were diſpoſſeſſed, be reſtored to the ſaid: officer, in caſe the Spaniards ſhould not have given them up. - “ You will alſo give orders, that if any indi- vidual 74 INTRODUCTION. vidual in the ſervice of Britiſh ſubjects, whether a Chineſe, or of any other nation, ſhould have been carried away and detained in thoſe parts, ſuch perſon ſhall be immediately delivered up to the above-mentioned officer. “I alſo communicate all this to the viceroy of New Spain by his Majeſty's command, and by the royal command I charge you with the moſt punétual and preciſe execution of this order. “May God preſerve you many years. (Signed) - “The Count Florida BLANCA.” 6 & ARANJuez, 12th May, 1791. “To the Governor or Commander of the port at Saint Lawrence.” “By the Commiſfioners for executing the office of Lord High Admiral of Great Britain and Ireland, &c. “IN addition to former orders, you are hereby required and directed, by all proper conveyances, to ſend to our ſecretary, for our information, ac- COuntS INTRODUCTION. 75 counts of your proceedings, and copies of the ſur- veys and drawings you ſhall have made ; and, upon your arrival in England, you are immedi- ately to repair to this office, in order to lay before us a full account of your proceedings in the whole courſe of your voyage; taking care, before you leave the ſloop, to demand from the officers, and petty-officers, the log-books, journals, draw- ings, &c. they may have kept, and to ſeal them up for our inſpection ; and enjoining them, and the whole crew, not to divulge where they have been until they ſhall have permiſſion ſo to do: and you are to direct the lieutenant commanding the Chatham armed tender to do the ſame, with reſpect to the officers, petty-officers, and crew of that tender. Given under our hands the I oth of Auguſt, 1791. “CHATHAM. “J. T. Towns HEND. “A. GARDN ER.” “ To George Pancouver, Eſ. Commander of his Majeſty's Sloop the Diſcovery. By command of their Lordſhips, 5 3 Q PH. STEPHENs Amon gſt 76 INTRODUCTION. Amongſt other objećts demanding my atten- tion, whilſt engaged in carrying theſe orders into execution, no opportunity was neglected to re- move, as far as I was capable, all ſuch errors as had crept into the ſcience of navigation, and to eſtabliſh in their place, ſuch facts as would tend to facilitate the grand object of finding the lon- gitude at ſea; which now ſeems to be brought nearly to a certainty, by purſuing the lunar me- thod, aſſiſted by a good chronometer. On this, as well as ſome other ſubjects, it is highly pro- bable, that great prolixity and repetition will be found in the following pages; it will, however, readily appear to the candid peruſers of this voyage, that, as the primary deſign of the un- dertaking was to obtain uſeful knowledge, ſo it became an indiſpenſable duty, on my part, to uſe my utmoſt exertions and abilities in doing - juſtice to the original intention; by detailifíg the information that aroſe in the execution of it, in a way calculated to inſtrucł, even though it ſhould fail to entertain. And when the writer alleges, that from the age of thirteen, his whole life, to the commencement of this expedition, (fifteen months INTRODUCTION. 77 sºr- months only excepted) has been devoted to con- ſtant employment in his Majeſty's naval ſervice, he feels, and with all poſſible humility, that he has ſome claims to the indulgence of a generous public; who, under ſuch circumſtances, will not expect to find elegance of diction, purity of ſtyle, or unexceptionable grammatical accuracy: but will be ſatisfied with “a plain unvarniſhed” relation, given with a rigid attention to the truth of ſuch tranſactions and circumſtances as ap- peared to be worthy of being recorded by a naval officer, whoſe greateſt pride is to deſerve the ap- pellation of being zealous in the ſervice of his king and country. ADVER- I is ADVERTISEMENT FROM THE EDITOR. A S a confiderable delay has neceſſarily taken place in the publication of this work, in conſequence of the deceaſe of the late Captain Vancouver, it becomes of abſolute neceſſity to give an accurate account of the ſtate of the work at the period when his laſt fatal indiſpoſition ren- dered him incapable of attending any more to buſineſs; left the melancholy event which has retarded its completion ſhould tend to affect its authenticity in the public opinion. The five firſt volumes, excepting the intro- dućtion, and as far as page 43 of the ſixth and laſt volume, were printed; and Captain Van- couver had finiſhed a laborious examination of the impreſſion, and had compared it with the en- graved charts and headlands of his diſcoveries, from the commencement of his ſurvey in the year 1791, to the concluſion of it at the port of Valparaíſo, on his return to England in the year 1795. He had alſo prepared the introduction, and a further part of the journal as far as page 408 of the laſt volume. The whole, therefore, of the important part of the work, which com- prehends his geographical diſcoveries and im- provements, is now preſented to the public, ex- aćtly Ap VERTISEMENT. 7g aćtly as it would have been had Captain Van- couver been ſtill living. The notes which he had made on his journey from the port of Val- paraíſo to his arrival at St. Jago de Chili, the capital of that kingdom, were unfortunately loſt; and I am indebted to Captain Puget for having aſſiſted me with his obſervations on that occa- ſion. Ever ſince Captain Vancouver's laſt return to England, his health had been in a very debilitated ſtate, and his conſtitution was evidently ſo much impaired by the arduous ſervices in which, from his earlieſt youth, he had been conſtantly engag- ed,” that his friends dared to indulge but little hope * The late Captain Vancouver was appointed to the Reſo- lution by Captain Cook in the autumn of the year 1771, and on his return from that voyage round the world, he undertook to affiſt in the outfit and equipment of the Diſcovery, deſtined to accompany Captain Cook on his laſt voyage to the North Pole, which was concluded in October, 1780. On the 9th of December following he was made a lieutenant into the Martin ſloop ; in this veſſel he continued until he was removed into the Fame, one of Lord Rodney's fleet in the Weſt-Indies, where he remained until the middle of the year 1783. In the year 1784 he was appointed to, and ſailed in the Europa to Jamaica, on which ſtation he continued until her return to England in September 1789. On the 1ſt of January 1790, he was appointed to the Diſcovery, but ſoon afterwards was removed to the Courageux : here he remained until Decem- ber, 1790, when he was made maſter and commander, and appointed to the Diſcovery. In Auguſt, 1794, he was, with- Out: SO Af) VERTISEMENT*. hope that he would continue many years amongſt them. Notwithſtanding that it pleaſed the Di- vine Providence to ſpare his life until he had been able to reviſe and complete the account of the geographical part of his late Voyage of Diſ. covery, a circumſtance which muſt ever be re- garded as moſt fortunate by all the friends of ſcience, and eſpecially by thoſe profeſſional per- ſons who may hereafter be likely to follow him, through the intricate labyrinth which he had ſo minutely explored; yet it will ever be a con- ſideration of much regret, that he did not ſurvive to perfeót the narrative of his labours. He had made many curious obſervations on the natural hiſtory of the ſeveral countries he had viſited, and on the manners, cuſtoms, laws and religion, of the various people with whom he had met, or amongſt whom he had occaſionally reſided; but had been induced to poſtpone theſe miſcellaneous matters, left the regular diary of the voyage ſhould be interrupted by the introdućtion of ſuch deſultory obſervations. Theſe he had intended to preſent in the form of a ſupplementary or con- cluding chapter, but was prevented by the unfor- tunate event of his illneſs. out ſolicitation, promoted to the rank of poſt-captain, and was paid off on the concluſion of his laſt voyage in November, 1795. After this period he was conſtantly employed, until within a few weeks of his deceaſe, in May, 1798, in preparing the following journal for publication. º . . . - Moſt AD VERTIS EMEN'ſ, 8 * Moſt of the papers, which contain theſe inte- reſting particulars, are too conciſe and too uncon- nečted for me to attempt any arrangement of them, or to ſubmit them to the reader without hazarding Captain Vancouver's judgment as an obſerver, or his reputation as a narrator, rigidly devoted to the truth. But as ſome of the notes, which he made upon the ſpot, are of too valuable a nature to be intirely loſt, I ſhall venture to ſubjoin them to the Hiſtory of the Voyage, as nearly as poſſible in his own words, without at- tempting any ſuch arrangement of them, as might tend to diminiſh their authenticity, or bring into doubt that ſcrupulous veracity from which Captain Vancouver never departed. The whole narrative of the Voyage of Diſco- very having been brought to its concluſion at Valparaíſo, by Captain Vancouver himſelf, there only remains for me to add, that in preparing for the preſs the ſmall remainder of his journal, comprehending the paſſage round Cape Horn to St. Helena, and from thence to England, I have ſtričtly adhered to the rough documents before me ; but as no new incidents occurred in this part of the voyage, and as the inſertion of log- book minutes, over a ſpace which is now ſo fre- quently traverſed, cannot either be uſeful or en- tertaining, I have endeavoured to compreſs this Vol. I. F portion 32 A DV ERTISEMENT, portion of the journal into as few pages as poſ- fible. In performing this painful taſk, I have had fevere and ample cauſe to lament the melancholy office to which I have been compelled, by the death of him whoſe early departure from this life has deprived his Majeſty of an active and able officer, truth and ſcience of a ſteady ſupporter, ſociety of an uniformly valuable member, and in addition to the feelings of many who live to re- gret the loſs of a ſincere friend, I have to deplore that of a moſt affectionate brother. JOHN VANCOUVER. iſºſcan, M.& .4: ..fºx tº it ºt • * Jº 42A1*S*Augu sºme * Q P 3.1//www. ſ & Douglas £º, *> A'://art/... 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TRANSACTIONS FROM THE COMMEN CEMENT OF THE ExPEDITION, UNTIL OUR DEPARTURE FROM OTA- HEITF. CHAPTER I. Equipment of the D1scovery and the CHATHAM —Departure from Falmouth—Piſit and Tranſ- ačions at Teneriffe—Occurrences and Obſerva- * tions during the Paſſage to the Cape of Good Hope—Tranſactions there, and departure thence. N the 15th of December, 1790, I had the honor of receiving my commiſſion as com- mander of his Majeſty's ſloop the Diſcovery, then lying at Deptford, where, the next morning, Thurſday the 16th, I joined her, and began en- tering men. - Lieutenant William Robert Broughton having - F 2 been 84 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [3AN. been ſelečted as a proper officer to command the Chatham, he was accordingly appointed; but the repairs ſhe demanded prevented her equipment keeping pace with that of the Diſcovery; which in moſt reſpects being completed by Thurſday the 6th of January, 1791, the ſails were bent, and the ſhip got in readineſs to proceed down the river. With a favorable wind on the following day, Friday the 7th, we failed, and anchored in Long Reach about five in the evening. Although this trial of the ſhip may appear very inſignifi- cant, yet as ſhe had never been under ſail, it was not made without ſome anxiety. The conſtruc- tion of her upper works, for the ſake of adding to the comfort of the accommodations, differing materially from the general faſhion, produced an unſightly appearance, and gave riſe to various opinions unfavorable to her qualities as a ſea- boat; for which reaſon it was natural to pay the minuteſt attention to her ſteering and other pro-> pertics when in motion; and we obtained in the courſe of this ſhort trip, the pleaſing proſpect of her proving handy, and in all other reſpects a very comfortable veſſel. Various neceſſary oc- cupations detained us in Long Reach until Wed- neſday the 26th, when, having taken on board all our ordnance ſtores, and ſuch things as were wanted from Deptford dock yard, we proceeded down the river on our way to Portſmouth. My orders 1791.] Round THE world. 85 orders for this purpoſe were accompanied by another, to receive on board and convey to his native country, Towereroo, an Indian, from one of the Sandwich iſlands, who had been brought from thence by ſome of the north-weſt American traders, in July, 1789. This man had lived, whilſt in England, in great obſcurity, and did not ſeem in the leaſt to have benefited by his re- ſidence in this country. Unfavorable winds prevented our reaching the Downs until Sunday the 30th ; where they ſtill continued, and, being attended with very boiſ- terous weather, detained us until Thurſday the 3d of February ; when, with a ſtrong gale from the northward, we proceeded down channel. About noon we paſſed the South Foreland, and had the misfortune to loſe John Brown, who fell overboard and was drowned. He was one of the carpenter's mates, an exceedingly good man, and very much regretted. About noon on Saturday the 5th, we anchored at Spithead, where Rear- Admiral Goodall's flag was flying on board his Majeſty's ſhip Vanguard, in company with twelve fail of the line and ſeveral frigates, Some defects in the ſhip's head were already evident, as the bumkins and a conſiderable part of the head were now waſhed away. Theſe re- pairs, with ſuch other duties as were neceſſary, I gave orders to have executed; and my preſence F 3 being 86 A VOYAGE OF DISCOW ERY [FEB. being required in London, I repaired thither; where I remained until Sunday the 27th, when I returned to Portſmouth, with orders to proceed to Falmouth. - On former voyages of this deſcription, it had been cuſtomary to pay the officers and ſhip's company the wages that had become due whilſt they had been employed in the equipment of the veſſels, which in general had occupied ſix months or upwards; enabling them by ſuch means more effectually to provide themſelves with thoſe com- forts which ſuch long and remote ſervices ever demand. But as a ſimilar payment to the crews of the Diſcovery and Chatham, (whoſe comple- ments were now complete) for the ſhort time they had been in pay, would have been of little aſſiſtance; the Lords of the Admiralty, at my ſolicitation, had the goodneſs to grant them three months pay in advance; which was accordingly received free of all deductions. tº I have already mentioned that the Navy Board had ſupplied me with an affortment of mathe- matical inſtruments; and the Board of Longi- tude, in compliance with the wiſhes of the Ad- miralty, provided in addition two chronometers; one made by the late eminent Mr. Kendall, (the excellence of which had been manifeſted on board the Diſcovery during Captain Cook's laſt voyage, and which had lately been cleaned and put into order 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 87 order by its very worthy and ingenious maker, a ſhort time before his deceaſe;) the other lately made by Mr. Arnold. Theſe had both been de- poſited at the obſervatory of the Portſmouth aca- demy, for the purpoſe of finding their reſpective errors, and for aſcertaining their rate of going. The former was delivered to me, with ſuch obſervations as had been made to that effect; whence it appeared to be faſt of mean time at Greenwich, on Tueſday the 1ſt of March at noon, 1' 39" 18", and to be gaining on mean time at the rate of 6' 12” per day. The latter was directed to be put on board the Chatham, which veſſel had now arrived from the river. Having completely finiſhed our buſineſs with the dock-yard on the evening of Thurſday the 3d, we dropped down to St. Helen's, and the next morning, Friday the 4th, proceeded down channel, leaving the Chatham behind, not as yet quite ready to accompany us; in our way we ſtopped at Guernſey, and on Saturday the 12th arrived at Falmouth, where I was to wait the ar- rival of the Chatham, and to receive my final inſtructions for the proſecution of the voyage. An Admiralty meſſenger preſented me with the latter on Sunday the 20th ; but the Chatham did not arrive until the 31ſt, when Lieutenant Broughton, who had orders to put himſelf under my command, received ſuch ſignals and inſtruc- F 4 tions 88 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, tions as were neceſſary on this occaſion. He in- formed me, that they had experienced a very boiſterous paſſage from Spithead, and that the Chatham had proved ſo very crank, as, in ſome inſtances, to occaſion conſiderable alarm. The length of time I had already waited for her ar- rival rendered this intelligence very unpleaſant; as, demanding immediate attention, it would cauſe further delay, which I much wiſhed to avoid; eſpecially as a favorable gale for clearing the channel now prevailed. The apprehenſion of further detention by contrary winds, ſhould we loſe the preſent opportunity by breaking up the Chatham's hold for the reception of more ballaſt, induced me to reſort to another expedient, that of lending her all our ſhot, which when ſtowed amidſhips as low down as poſſible, and every weight removed from above, we flattered our- ſelves would be the means of affording a tempo- rary relief to this inconvenience. A gentle breeze from the N. E. at day dawn on Friday the 1ſt of April, enabled us to ſail out of Carrack road, in company with the Chatham; and at midnight we took a long farewell of our native ſhores. The Lizard lights bore by com- paſs N. N. W. 4 W. about eight leagues; and the wind being in the weſtern quarter, we ſtood to the ſouthward. Towards the morning of Sa- turday the 2d, on the wind's ſhifting to the ſouth, WC 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 89 we ſtood to the weſtward, clear of the Engliſh channel; with minds, it may eaſily be conceived, not intirely free from ſerious and contemplative reflections. The remote and barbarous regions, which were now deſtincó, for ſome years, to be our tranſitory places of abode, were not likely to afford us any means of communicating with our native ſoil, our families, our friends or favorites, whom we were now leaving far behind; and to augment theſe painful reflections, his Majeſty's proclamation had arrived at Falmouth, the even- ing prior to our departure, offering bounties for manning the fleet; ſeveral ſail of the line were put into commiſſion, and flag officers appointed to different commands: theſe were circumſtances finilar to thoſe under which, in Auguſt, 1776, I had ſailed from England in the Diſcovery, com- manded by Captain Clerke, on a voyage which in its object nearly reſembled the expedition we were now about to undertake. This very unex- pećted armament could not be regarded without cauſing various opinions in thoſe who, from day to day, would have opportunities of noticing the ſeveral meaſures inclining to war or peace; but to us, deſtined, as it were, to a long and remove exile, and precluded, for an indefinite period of time, from all chance of becoming acquaintcq with its reſult, it was the ſource of inexpreſſible ſolicitude, 90 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, ſolicitude, and our feelings on the occaſion may be better conceived than deſcribed. Having no particular route to the Pacific Ocean pointed out in my inſtructions, and being left at perfect liberty to purſue that which appeared the moſt eligible, I did not heſitate to prefer the paſ- ſage by way of the Cape of Good Hope, intend- ing to viſit the Madeiras, for the purpoſe of pro- curing wine and refreſhments. Our courſe was accordingly ſo direéted againſt winds very unfa- vorable to our wiſhes. At noon on Sunday the 3d we reached the latitude 48° 48' north, longi- tude by the chronometer 6° 55' weſt; where the cloudy weather preventing our making the ne- ceſſary obſervations on the ſun eclipſed, produced no ſmall degree of concern; as with the late im- provement of applying deep magnifying powers to the teleſcopes of ſextants, the obſervations on ſolar eclipſes are rendered very eaſy to be made at ſea; and although we were not fortunate enough on this occaſion to procure ſuch, at the intereſt- ing periods of the eclipſe, as would have put this improvement fully to the teſt, yet it was evident that theſe obſervations to perſons not much ac- cuſtomed to aſtronomical purſuits would be ren- dered plain and eaſy, by the refle&ted image of the ſun being brought down to the horizon; ſo that the beginning and the end of the colipſe would be aſcertained by the help of theſe deep magnity- 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 91 magnifying teleſcopes with great preciſion ; and probably it may not be unworthy the attention of the Board of Longitude to contrive, and cauſe ſuch calculations to be publiſhed, as would tend to render theſe obſervations generally uſeful in the various parts of the globe, without the tedious pro- ceſs of calculating eclipſes. The wind, continu- ing in the ſouthern quarter, rendercq our progreſs ſlow; the weather, however, being clear, afforded us employment in taking ſome good lunar obſcr- vations; which, reduced to the noon of Tucſóay the 12th, gave the mean reſult of four ſets, taken by me, 12° 24′ weſt longitude; four ſets taken by Mr. Whidbey, 12° 30'; the chronometer at the ſame time ſhewing 12° 0' ; and as I conſi- dered the latter to be neareſt the truth, the lu- nar obſervations appeared to be 15' to 2 1/ too far to the weſtward. The longitude, by dead reck- oning, 13° 22', and the latitude 44° 22′ north. The error in rcckoning amounting almoſt to a degree, ſeemed moſt likely to have been occa- fioned by our not having made ſufficient allow- ance for the variation of the compaſs on our firſt ſailing, as, inſtead of allowing from 22° to 25°, which was what we eſteemed the variation, our obſervations for aſcertaining this fact, when the ſhip was ſufficiently ſteady, ſhewed the variation to be 28° and 294° weſtwardly. Theſe oppor- tunities, however, had not occurred ſo frequently aS 02 A vox AGF of Discovery [APRIL, as I could have wiſhed, owing to a conſtant ir- regular ſwell that had accompanica us ſince leav- ing the land, and cauſed ſo much motion and pitching, that the whole head railings, bum- kins, &c. were again waſhed away. On Saturday the 16th, in latitude 42° 34' north, longitude 12° 31' weſt, the variation of the com- paſs, by the mean reſult of ſix ſets of obſerva- tions taken by three compaſſes differing from 25° 57' to 27° 35', was obſerved to be 26°20' weſt- wardly. The current was found to ſet in a di- rečtion E. N. E. at the rate of a quarter of a mile per hour. The whole of the day being per- ſectly calm, with remarkably fine weather, in- duced me to embrace the opportunity of unbend- ing all our ſails which wanted alteration, and to bend an entire new ſuit; theſe I cauſed to be foaked overboard for ſome hours, that the ſea water might diſſolve the ſize uſed in making the canvaſs, and by that means act as a preventive againſt the mildew in hot rainy weather. This proceſs might probably be found uſeful in the operation of bleaching. On our departure from England, I did not in- tend uſing any antiſeptic proviſions, until the re- freſhments which we might be enabled to procure at the Madeiras ſhould be exhauſted; but light baffling winds, together with the crank ſituation and bad ſailing of the Chatham, having ſo re- - tarded 1791.] Itö (JN D THE WORLD. g3 tarded our progreſs, that, by Thurſday the 21ſt, we were advanced no furthcr than the latitude of 35° 7' north, longitude 14° 40′ weſt: four krout and portable broth had, for ſome days, been ferved on board each of the veſſels; the ſtore- rooms had been clearcd, cleaned, and waſhed with vinegar, and the ſhip had been ſmoked with gun- powder mixed with vinegar. As I had ever con- ſidered fire the moſt likely and efficacious means to keep up a conſtant circulation of frcſh and pure air throughout a ſhip; in the fore part of every day good fires were burning between decks, and in the well. Both decks were kept clean, and as dry as poſſible, and notwithſtanding the weather was hot, and the ſmoke and heat thence ariſing was conſidered as inconvenient and diſ- agreeable, yet I was confident that a due atten- tion to this particular, and not waſhing too fre- quently below, were indiſpcnſable precautions, and would be produćtive of the moſt ſalubrious and happy effects in preſerving the health and lives of our people. Theſe preventive meaſures be- coming the ſtanding orders of the Diſcovery, it will be unneceſſary hereafter to repeat that they were regularly enforced, as they were obſerved throughout the voyage with the ſtrićteſt atten- tion. It may not, however, on this ſubjećt, be improper to remark that, if inſtead of biſcuit, ſea- men were provided with freſh ſoft bread, which - Carl 94 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, can eaſily be made very good at ſea, and a large proportion of wholeſome water, where the na- ture of the ſervices will admit of ſuch a ſupply, they would add greatly to the preſervation of that moſt valuable of all bleſſings, health. The evening of Saturday the 23d, being re- markably fine and ſerene, brought us in fight of - the iſland of Porto Sanéto, bearing by compaſs S. W. H. W. 20 leagues diſtant; the next after- noon we paſted its meridian, when the chrono- meter ſhewing its longitude to be 16°24' 15", varying only one minute to the weſtward of the true longitude of that iſland, proved it was going very well. As Madeira was our object, every ef- fort was exerted to gain Funchal Road, until the evening of Monday the 25th, when the wind becoming exceſſively variable, and the weather gloomy and unſettled, that ſtation ſeemed ineli- gible for czecuting the ſervice of which the Chat- ham ſtood in need; namely, the breaking up her hold, for the purpoſe of receiving a large portion of ballaſt. Conſidering therefore the roadſtead of Sº Cruz as better calculated for this buſineſs, we proceeded towards Teneriffe. The wind which had been generally from the weſt, veered round by the north, as we advanced to the ſouth- ward, and ſettled in the N. E. trade, accompa- nied with fine pleaſant weather, which, on Tueſ- day. thc 26th, in latitude 30°54′ north, afforded * II) tº: \ 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. g3 me an opportunity of obtaining ſeveral ſets of lunar diſtances with the different ſextants in the ſhip. Theſe were twelve in number, of the fol- lowing eminent makers in London, (viz.) Ramſ- den, Dollond, Troughton, Adams, and Gilbert, though the greater number were made by Mr. Ramſden. They all agreed exceedingly well to- gether, and their mean reſult ſhewed the longi- tude to be 16° 21' 32"; the chronometer made the longitude 16° 31' 15" weſt; and as there could be no doubt of the latter being neareſt the truth, the reſult of the lunar obſervations, by the ſeveral ſextants, appeared to be 9° 43' too far to the eaſtward. On the other ſide of the moon, my lunar obſervations were 15' to the weſt of the true, or nearly the true, longitude, as was proved on our making the Madeiras. This evinces the accuracy with which theſe obſervations are in general capable of being made with good inſtru- ments, and by a careful obſerver. In the morning of Thurſday the 28th, the peak of Teneriffe was ſeen bearing by compaſs S. W. about ſixteen leagues diſtant; and, in the evening, as we approached the roadſtead of Sº Cruz, we were met by the maſter attendant, who placed the ſhip in what, he ſaid, he conceived the beſt birth in the roadſtead, and the Chatham in our immediate neighbourhood. When the ſhip was ſecured, an officer was ſent to 96 &e A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MAY, to inform the governor of our arrival, and to ſo- licit his permiſſion to take on board ſuch wine, and refreſhments as we required; but having un- derſtood that he had waved a return of ſalute to ſome of his Majeſty's ſhips that had lately viſited Teneriffe; I did not chooſe to riſk a refuſal, however polite, to comply with this compliment. The officer was civilly received, and the con- tractor was, the next morning, direéted to ſupply the different articles of which we ſtood in need. Accompanied by Mr. Broughton, Mr. Menzies, and ſome of the other officers, on Friday the 20th, in the forenoon, I waited on his Excellency Sen" Don Antonio Guitierres, the governor general of the Canaries, who then reſided in the city of Sº Cruz. His excellency received us with the po- liteneſs uſual on theſe occaſions, and aſſured us of his readineſs to afford us every aſſiſtance; but apologized that the poverty of the country pre- vented his inviting us to his table. Attended by the ſame party, on Sunday, the 1ſt of May, I viſited the city of Lagoona, and after ſatisfying our curioſity with its external appearance, we re- turned to Sº Cruz, and dined with Mr. Rhoney, an Iriſh gentleman, to whoſe hoſpitality we were greatly indebted. Had we not fortunately met with him immediately on our landing, we ſhould have been much inconvenienced, as there did not appear another perſon on the iſland who was inclinable 1791.] Roux D THE world. 97 inclinable to offer us ſhelter from the ſcorching rays of the ſun, or to afford us the ſmalleſt re- freſhment. - We had the mortification, this morning, of finding the ſmall bower cable cut through nearly in the middle, which ſeemed to have been oc- caſioned by an anchor lying at the bottom. The loſs of an anchor in a ſituation where no other could be procured, was a matter of ſerious con- cern; no pains were ſpared to regain it until the afternoon of Thurſday the 5th, when all our ex- ertions proved ineffectual; and being apprehen- five that other loſt anchors might be in its vici- nity, we weighed, went further out, and again anchored in 30 fathoms water on a ſoft dark oozy bottom intermixed with ſmall white ſhells, having the northernmoſt church ſteeple in a line with the centre of the jetty, bearing by compaſs N. 48 W. and the ſouthernmoſt fort S. 71 W. about three quarters of a mile from the town. This anchorage appeared to be far preferable to our former ſituation, being nearly as convenient for the landing place, without the hazard of da- maging the cables by anchors which ſmall veſſels. might have loſt nearer in ſhore; and which is the only danger to be apprehended here, as the bottom is good holding ground, and, to all ap- pearance, perfeótly free from rocks. The ſurf that had beaten with great violence Vol. I. G On 98 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MAY, on the ſhores for ſome days paſt, and for ſhelter- ing againſt which the pier of Sº Cruz is but ill contrived, had much retarded the Chatham's bu- fineſs of taking on board ſhingle ballaſt, and pre- vented the completion of that objećt until late OIl Saturday night the 7th, when we put to ſea, and directed our courſe to the ſouthward. The ballaſt which the Chatham had now taken on board certainly prevented her being ſo very crank, but it did not ſeem to have contributed to her ſailing, as the Diſcovery ſtill preſerved a great ſuperiority in that reſpect. Not having ſuppoſed we ſhould have been ſo long detained at Teneriffe, I took no ſteps for making aſtronomical obſervations on ſhore; thoſe taken on board ſhewed the longitude by the chronometer to be 16° 17' 5", only 50" to the weſtward of the true longitude, as laid down in the requiſite tables: the latitude by our obſerva- tions was 28° 28′ 38", and the variation, by the mean reſult of all our cards and compaſſes, was 16° 38', differing from 15° 58' to 17° 17' weſt- wardly. * > For the information of thoſe who may be in- duced to viſit Teneriffe at this ſeaſon of the year with the hope of procuring refreſhments, I muſt remark, that we found the wine, water, and beef exceedingly good, and were induced to take ſome days ſupply of the latter to ſea; but fruit, vege- - - -- tables, 1791 ..] ROUND THE WORLD. 09 tables, poultry, and all kinds of live ſtock were very indifferent, and moſt extravagantly expenſive. Towards noon of Sunday the 8th, we loſt ſight of the Canaries. The trade wind blew a pleaſant gale, the ſea was ſmooth, and the weather, being fine, enabled us to make ſome excellent lunar obſervations; thoſe I took ſhewed the longitude to be 16° 52' 36"; thoſe taken by Mr. Whidbey 16° 52' 30"; and the chronometer ſhewed 16° 47' 45". The latitude, at this time, was 27° 5' north; and the variation, by three compaſſes differing from 15° 10' to 18° 5'1', was 17° 33' 40" weſt- wardly. Our courſe from the Canaries was directed to the weſtward of the cape de Verd Iſlands, which we gained fight of and paſſed on the forenoon of Saturday the 14th. The N. W. extremity of the iſland of St. Antonio appeared, by our obſer- vations, to be ſituated in 17° 10' north latitude, and 25° 3' 22" weſt longitude; the variation of the compaſs 12° 22' 15" weſtwardly. The freſh beef that we had brought from Teneriffe being exhauſted, on Wedneſday the 18th, portable broth and ſour krout were again ſerved to the the ſhips' crews; at this time we had reached the latitude of 9° 35' north, longitude 23° 27' weſt, when the weather, which had been plea- ſant and attended with a freſh gale from the N.E. very materially altered: the wind ſlackened * G 2 and 100 A voyage of Discovery [MAY, and veered round to the north, and the atmoſ- phere, though not cloudy, was encumbered with a bright haze nearly approaching to a fog, but without the leaſt dampneſs or humidity. Through this medium the heavenly bodies were ſufficiently viſible whilſt terreſtrial objećts were only diſ- cernible at ſmall diſtances. This very fingular appearance continued a few days until Saturday the 21ſt, when, in latitude 6° 20' north, and lon- gitude 22° 40′ weſt, the northerly breeze died away, the denſe atmoſphere diſappeared, and they were ſucceeded by calm, cloudy, hot weather, the thermometer ſtanding from 80° to 83°, at- tended with ſome heavy ſhowers of rain and guſts of wind in various direétions, though ge- nerally from the eaſtern quarter between N. E. and ſouth. Our progreſs, with this kind of wea- ther, was ſlow until Tueſday the 24th, when, in latitude 4° 25' north, longitude 21° 36' weſt, we ſeemed to have paſſed the line of thoſe unplea- ſant and frequently unhealthy regions. The fteadineſs of the gentle gale, and the ſerenity of the weather indicated our having reached the S. E. trade winds; theſe conjećtures were ſoon eſtab- liſhed by the wind gradually increaſing, ſo that, about midnight on Friday the 27th, we croſſed the equator in 25° 15' weſt longitude. The va- riation to this point had gradually, though not very regularly, decreaſed to about 9° weſtwardly; and | 1791.js ROUND THE WORLD. 1 O-1 and the lunar obſervations, lately taken, i.ad cor- reſponded within a few minutes with the longi- tude ſhewn by the chronometer. Croffing the equator ſo far to the weſtward has teen frequently objected to, as being liable to entangle ſhips with the coaſt of Brazil. I am, however, of a different opinion, and conceive many advantages are derived by thus croſſing the ling; ſuch as, purſuing a track deſtitute of thoſe calins and heavy rains, which are ever attendant on a more eaſtwardly route. By every informa- tion I have been enabled to collect, it does not appear that much is to be gained in point of diſ- tance by croſſing the equator in a more eaſtwardly longitude; ſince it ſeems that veſſels which have purſued their ſoutherly courſe to croſs the line under the 10th, 15th, or 20th meridian of weſt dongitude, have, by the trade wind blowing there in a more ſoutherly direction, been driven equally as far weſt, to the 25th, 26th, and 27th degrees of weſt longitude before they have been enabled to gain the variable winds, without the benefit of a conſtant breeze and fair weather, which with the very little interruption between the 21ſt and 24th, was experienced during this paſſage. From the equator, with a briſk trade wind, we fteered with a full ſail and flowing ſheet; which -by the 1ſt of June brought us to the latitude of 7° 52' ſouth, longitude 29° 7' weſt; whence G 3 WC I O2 A voyAGE OF DISCOVERY [IUNE, we ceaſed ſtretching further to the weſtward, and made a good courſe a few degrees to the eaſtward of ſouth; ſo that on Thurſday the 9th we had reached the latitude of 19° 47' ſouth, lon- gitude 27, 27' weſt, approaching to the parallel of the iſlands Trinadada and Martin Vas. The wind now permitted our ſteering well to the eaſtward of ſouth ; but leſt an error ſhould have exiſted in our longitude, or in that of thoſe iſlands, I direéted the Chatham to increaſe her diſtance from us by holding a ſouth courſe, for the pur- poſe of gaining a view of that land; by ſun-ſet we were in the latitude of 20° 0' ſouth, the pa- rallel of thoſe iſlands, but ſaw nothing of them. The longitude of the former is ſtated to be 28° 50', that of the latter 28° 34' weſt; allowing their longitude, and that of the ſhip, to have been accurately aſcertained, we paſſed them at the diſ- tance of 24 and 19 leagues. On Sunday the 12th we croſſed the ſouthern tropio in 25° 18' weſt longitude; the variation of the compaſs had now gradually decreaſed to 4° 30' weſtwardly, and having lately taken many very good lunar diſtances of the ſun and ſtars on different ſides of the moon, I aſſumed their mean reſult as the true longitude, or nearly ſo; by which, the obſervations for the longitude, ac- cording to the chronometer, appeared to be 14' 25" too far to the eaſtward; whence it ſhould appear, 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. | O3 appear, that it was not gaining quite ſo much as had been allowed in conſequence of its rate, as aſcertained at Portſmouth. After croſſing the tropic of Capricorn, the wind became very va- riable, as well in point of ſtrength as in direction, ſo that on Tueſday the 28th we had only ad- vanced to the latitude of 31, 50' ſouth, longitude 40 18' weſt. The weather was in general very pleaſant: and the Chatham, to our great mortification, continued to ſail equally ſlow in light as in freſh gales, which materially affected the progreſs of . our voyage; the objećt of which was of ſuch a nature that it would allow of no opportunity of being paſſed by, that, with propriety, could be embraced for the advancement of geography and navigation; and as Captain Cook's chart of the Sandwich iſlands preſented little field for any im- provement that could occupy the ſeveral winters we were likely to paſs in their vicinity, I reſolv- ed in our way to the Pacific Ocean to viſit the S.W. part of New Holland, and endeavour to ac- quire ſome information of that unknown, though intereſting country. Having much buſineſs tº perform at the Cape of Good Hope in the car- penter's department, it became expedient, for the carrying into execution the whole of my plan, that no time ſhould be loſt; particularly as our paſſage from England had already exceeded the - G 4 limits 104 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JULY, limits of my expectations. Theſe reaſons induced me to make the beſt of our way in the Diſco- very to the Cape of Good Hope, and ſhould the Chatham be able to keep up with us, ſhe was directed ſo to do; if otherways, Mr. Broughton was proyided with ſufficient inſtructions. The wind was light and variable, until Friday, July the 1ſt, in latitude 33°54' ſouth, longitude 58' 40" weſt, it blew a fine gale from the N.N. E. attended with pleaſant weather; the Chatham until this evening remained in ſight, but in the morning was not within the limits of our hori- zon. As we approached the African ſhore the weather became very unſettled, with ſudden tranſitions from calms to heavy gales, attended with much thunder, lightning, and a heavy ſwell from the weſtward and S. W. One of theſe gales, on Tueſday the 5th, reduced us for a few hours to our courſes. The wind became ſouth- wardly with pleaſant weather on Thurſday the 7th, when a ſtrange ſail was deſcried to the N.E. holding a courſe, as if intending to paſs the Cape, and ſome of us thinking the ſea was diſcoloured, we tried for ſoundings, but found no bottom with 140 fathoms of line. After paſſing the 27° of ſouth latitude, many oceanic birds were our con- ſtant companions, conſiſting of three kinds of albatroſſes, the quebrantahueſſos, pintadoes, the ſooty, the black, and ſmall blue petrels, with ſome 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 1 O5 ſome few other ſmall birds of the ſame tribe ; amongſt which were but few of the ſtorm petrel, which in theſe regions are generally numerous. Moſt of theſe, by the 7th, had diſappeared, and, in their place, were ſeen the blue petrel of the larger ſort, though comparatively in ſmall nºm- bers; at noon the obſerved latitude was 35° 13' ſouth, longitude 14° eaſt. The wind blew a ſtrong gale from W. S. W. in the afternoon of Friday the 8th, when judging the Cape of Good Hope to bear from us N. 66 E. true, diſtant 18 leagucs, we experienced, for the ſpace of about ſeven miles, a moſt extraordinary agitation in the ſea, to be compared only to a large cauldron of boiling water; this was ſuppoſed to be the effect of two contending currents, and for that reaſon I did not try ſoundings. I was alſo particularly anxious to gain ſight of the land, which, in the event of the chronometer proving correót, there was great probability of doing before dark; but not ſeeing it we ſtood on till ten in the evening, when, by our lunar obſervations, ſuppoſing the Cape land to be about eight leagues diſtant, we hauled to the wind, and plied in order to pre- ſerve our then ſituation until the morning of Sa- turday the oth. At day light the Cape was in ſight, bearing eaſt by compaſs, eight leagues diſ- tant. This inſtance will, I truſt, be not the only one I ſhall be able to adduce, to prove the utility of 106 A VOYAGE OF DISCOV ERY [JULY, of the lunar method of finding the longitude, and the yery great importance that ſuch information muſt be of to every ſea officer. At this ſeaſon of the year, the boiſterous wear ther and the prevailing winds from the N. W. rendering Table Bay not only exceſſively unplea- fant but inſecure, our courſe was direéted to Falſe Bay. At noon, the obſerved latitude was 34° 26' ſouth, the Cape of Good Hope then bear- ing E. N. E. five or ſix miles diſtant. This pro- montory, and the dangerous rocks that lie in its neighbourhood, we paſſed, and ſtood into Falſe Bay, where in the evening, the weather falling calm, we anchored in 40 fathoms water; the Cape bearing weſt by compaſs, ten miles diſtant; Simon's Bay N. N.W. and the Falſe Cape S. E.; in this ſituation the chronometer ſhewed the lon- gitude to be 18° 52'45", making an error, or va- riation in its rate of going, as aſcertained at Portſ- mouth, of 18' 30" equal to 1' 14" of time ſince the firſt day of March; which will, without doubt, be received and conſidered as being very correct; it alſo correſponded with my obſerva- tions, and what on that ſubject I had noticed Orl the 12th of June. Our paſſage through the Atlantic Ocean being thus accompliſhed, it becomes requiſite, in com- pliance with the method propoſed in the intro- dućtion for correcting the crrors of navigation, to have 1791.] Round the world. ro7 have ſome retroſpect to this paſſage, eſpecially ſince paſſing the Cape de Verd iſlands. From the iſland of St. Antonio, until we had croſſed the latitude of cape St. Auguſtine, we were materially affected by currents; and be- tween the latitude of 0° north and the equator, ſtrong riplings were conſpicuous on the ſurface of the ſea. Theſe currents, contrary to the general opinion, ſeem to poſſeſs no regularity, as we found ourſelves, day after day, driven in direc- tions very contrary to our expectations from the impulſe we had experienced on the former day, and by no means attended with that periodical uniformity, pointed out by Mr. Nicholſon in his lately reviſed and corrected Indian directory, pub- liſhed in the year 1787. On the contrary, in- ſtead of the currents at this ſeaſon of the year, agreeably to his hypotheſis, ſetting to the north- ward, the moſt prevailing ſtream we experienced ſet to the ſouth, and more in a fouth-eaſtern than a ſouth-weſtern direction. This very able ma- riner, ſtill wedded to formerly adopted opinions, ſtrongly recommends the variation of the com- paſs as a means for aſcertaining the longitude at ſea : yet, had we been no better provided, we might have ſearched for the Cape of Good Hope agreeably with his propoſitions, to little effect: for when we were in latitude 35° 7' ſouth, with 20° 16' weſt variation, we had only reached the longitude # OS A VOYAGE OF DISCO W ERY [JULY, longitude of 6° 30' eaſt; and again, when in la- titude 35° 22' ſouth, with 22° 7' weſt variation, we had only advanced to the longitude of 11° 25' eaſt, inſtead of being, according to Mr. Nichol- ſon's hypotheſis, in the firſt inſtance nearly under the meridian of the cape of Good Hope, and in the ſecond, under that of cape Aguilas; and it was not until we had near 26° of weſt variation, that we approached the meridian of the Cape of Good Hope. The obſervations for the variation were made with the greateſt care and attention; and though generally conſidered as very correct, they differed from one to three, and ſometimes four degrees, not only when made by different compaſſes placed in different ſituations on board, and the ſhip on different tacks, but by the ſame compaſs in the ſame ſituation, made at moderate intervals of time; the difference in the reſults of ſuch obſervations, at the ſame time, not preſerv- ing the leaſt degree of uniformity. Hence the aſſertion amounts nearly to an abſurdity, which {tates, “ that with 20° to 20° 10', or 20° 30' “ weſtwardly variation, you will be certain” of ſuch and ſuch longitude; and it is greatly to be apprehended, that navigators who rely on ſuch means for aſcertaining their ſituation in the ocean, will render themſelves liable to errors that may be attended with the moſt fatal conſequences. Other methods are, I truſt, in a fair train for ac- compliſhing 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 109 compliſhing this deſirable objećt; and I yet hope to ſee the period arrive, when every ſca-faring perſon capable of uſing a quadrant, will, on due inſtruction, be enabled by lunar obſervations to determine his longitude at ſea. It has been al- ready obſerved, that ſuch information may be ac- quired with eaſe, and without laborious ſtudy or tedious application; this was further warranted by our example on board the Diſcovery; where, on our departure from England, Mr. Whidbey and myſelf could be conſidered as the only pro- ficients in this branch of ſcience; but now, amongſt the officers and gentlemen of the quar- ter deck, there were ſeveral capable of aſcertain- ing their ſituation in the ocean, with every de- gree of accuracy neceſſary for all the important purpoſes of navigation. With a light ſouthwardly breeze in the morn- ing of Sunday the 10th, we weighed anchor, and with the aſſiſtance of our boats a-head, tow- ing the ſhip, we reached Simon's bay at about feven in the evening, where we anchored in twelve fathoms water; Falſe cape bearing by compaſs in a line with the ſouth point of the bay, S. 37 E. Noah's ark, S. 51 E. the Roman rocks, S. 86 E. and the flag-ſtaff on the battery, S. 89 W. about a quarter of a mile from the ſhore. - The day before a brig was ſeen in ſhore of us, \ which 1 10 A Voy AGE of Discovery [July, which was ſuppoſed to be the Chatham ; but as the private ſignal was not acknowledged by her, we concluded ourſelves miſtaken. Our firſt con- jećtures, however, proved to be right, as Mr. Broughton now informed me the ſignal had eſ- caped their attention. Since we had ſeparated, the Diſcovery had outſailed her conſort only the night's run; the Chatham not having hauled her wind or ſhortened ſail on Friday night, ſhe was the next morning within the ſame diſtance of the land as the Diſcovery. Nothing had occur- red during this ſeparation worthy of notice. I was made exceſſively happy to underſtand from Mr. Broughton, that the officers and crew of the Chatham, like thoſe of the Diſcovery, were in general very healthy. Beſide the Chatham, we found here his Majeſty's ſhip the Gorgon; the Warren Haſtings, and Earl Fitzwilliam India- men from Bengal; two port Jackſon tranſports from China bound home; three with convicts bound to port Jackſon; two American, and ſome Dutch and Daniſh merchant ſhips; the total amounting to ſeventeen ſail in the bay. In the morning of Monday the 11th, an of- ficer was ſent on ſhore to acquaint the reſident commandant of the port, Mr. Brandt, of our ar- rival, and to requeſt his permiſſion to procure ſuch refreſhments and ſtores as our wants now demanded, and to erect our obſervatory and ſuch tentS 179 i.] ROUX D THE WOR L D. | 1 || tents on ſhore as might be requiſite for carrying into execution the neceſſary refitment of the veſ- ſels; with all which Mr. Brandt very politely complied; and, on the return of the officer, the garriſon was ſaluted with eleven guns; which compliment being equally returned, attended by Mr. Broughton and ſome of the officers, I waited on Mr. Brandt, who received us with the great- eſt politeneſs and hoſpitality, the well known charaćteriſtics of that gentleman. Having, on a former occaſion, benefited by his good offices in the excellency of the ſupplies provided for the Reſolution and Diſcovery, I concerted meaſures with him, on the preſent, for the like purpoſe. Mr. Brandt undertook, in conjunction with Mr. De Wit, of Cape Town, to ſee all our neceſſities provided for with the beſt of the ſeveral commo- dities the country afforded. The Diſcovery's bowſprit, being found infini;ely too weak, was taken out in order to be ſtrengthened by one of the fiſhes we had on board; the whole of the head railing, having been waſhed away, was to be replaced; the veſſels wanting caulking fore and aft; the rigging, overhauling; caſks to be ſet up for receiving proviſions and water; the ſails repairing, and ſeveral materially altering; the powder airing; and the ſkids and booms raiſing, for the better enabling of the people to work upon deck; the ſhip proving ſufficiently º {tiff I + 2 A voy AGE OF DIscovery [AUGUST, ftiff to admit of ſuch accommodation. Artificers were hired to aſſiſt our own in theſe ſeveral du- ties; which being in a ſtate of forwardneſs by the 14th, Mr. Broughton and myſelf paid our reſpects to Mr. Rhenias, the acting governor at Cape Town, with the further view of inſpecting the ſtores and proviſions, the major part of which were to come from thence. Four of our ſea- men, whoſe conſtitutions ſeemed unequal to the ſervice in which they had engaged, and whom I had now an opportunity of replacing, were ſent on board the Warren Haſtings; and, with her, on Monday the 18th, ſailed for England. All our ſtores and proviſions being forwarded from Cape Town by Friday the 5th of Auguſt, we took leave of the governor and our Cape friends, from whom we had experienced the moſt attentive civility; and having completed ſuch obſervations as were wanted, the obſervatory with the inſtruments were, on Tueſday the 9th, ſent on board. By Thurſday the 11th, all our tranſactions were finiſhed with the ſhore; having obtained for each veſſel a ſupply of proviſions, which com- pleted our ſtock for eighteen months at full al- lowance, and a due proportion of ſtores for the like period. I took on board alſo ſeven eves and ſix rams; an affortment of garden ſeeds, vine cuttings, and other plants that were likely to grow, 1791.j. Round THE WORLD. | 13 grow, and prove valuable acquiſitions to our friends in the South-Sea iſlands. As I intended putting to ſea the next day, we were buſily em- ployed in preparing the ſhip for that purpoſe, which, on the morning of Friday the 12th, we attempted; but the wind ſhifting to the S. S. E. permitted our taking only a more outſide birth for the better convenience of ſailing when the wind ſhould prove more favorable. It is cuſtomary at the Cape of Good Hope for ſo many of the officers as can conveniently be ſpared to take up their reſidence on ſhore. In this re- ſpect I had conformed to old practices, but was exceſſively mortified, at my return on board, to find that ſeveral of our people had, within a few days, become indiſpoſed with a dyſentery, which at firſt ſeemed of little importance, but had now put on a very ſerious appearance; and ſome of the patients were extremely ill. The cauſe of this unfortunate malady it was hard to aſcertain: the crew had not been ſubjeći to inebriety; their proviſions had been of the beſt quality, and moſt wholeſome nature; and every precaution had been taken to prevent their ſleeping on deck, or expoſing themſelves to the dew or night air. No neglect of the ſalutary meaſures generally ob- ſerved, or individual indiſcretion of any ſort ſeem- ed to have produced this lamentable viſitation, whoſe contagious influence ſuffered no one to Vol. I. H eſcape 114 A voy AGE of Dfscovery [August, eſcape unattacked; although myſelf and officers did not feel its effects ſo violently as they were experienced by the people. The ſame diſorder had not only appeared on board the Chatham, and the tranſports bound to port Jackſon, but on ſhore; and at length it was attributed to a large Dutch ſhip lately arrived from Batavia, from which many men had been ſent on ſhore to the hoſpital very ill, and dying with that and other infectious diſorders. The ſurgeon of the Diſco- very was ſeized in a very ſudden and fingular manner, and reduced to an extreme ſtate of de- lirium, without any other ſymptoms which indi- cated fever. To perſons, ſituated as we were, on the eve of quitting the civilized world, and deſtitute of all help and reſources, but ſuch as we carried with us, ſuch a calamity was of the moſt ſerious and diſtreſſing nature; and was not only ſeverely felt at the moment, but tended to deſtroy the good effects we had every reaſon to expect from the very excellent and abundant ſupply of refreſh- ments the Cape had afforded. I now became exceſſively anxious to get to ſea, left the Bata- vian ſhip ſhould communicate any other diſorder, or a worſe ſpecies of that with which we were already attacked. This earneſt deſire, a S. E. wind and calms prevented our accompliſhing until Wedneſday the 17th, when, about noon, , * º t a hight 1791.] RG UND THE WOR1, D. 1 15 a light breeze ſpringing up from the N. W. we ſailed, in company with the Chatham, out of Simon's bay, and ſaluted the garriſon with eleven guns, which were equally returned. Few of our tranſactions, whilſt at our laſt ſta- tion, appeared worthy of recording excepting the occurrences at the obſervatory, where I did not think any obſervations were at all neceſſary for aſcertaining the longitude; as that muſt have been accurately determined long ago by perſons of greater information and ſuperior abilities. The latitude; the rate and error of the chronometer; and the variation and dip of the magnetic needle, were the principal objećts that occupied our at- tention. The former would not have attracted much of my notice, had it not appeared by the firſt day's obſervations, that a very material dif- ference exiſted between the latitude ſhewn by my obſervations, and the latitude of Simon's bay as ſtated by Captain King in the 3d vol. of Cook's Voyage to the Northern Hemiſphere, where, in page 484, it is ſaid that “the latitude of the an- “chorage place in Simon's bay is, by obſervation, “34° 20' ſouth.” This, however, is moſt pro- bably an error of the preſs, fince, immediately afterwards, we find the Cape point is ſaid to be in 34° 23' ſouth ; which point is at leaſt 12 or a 3 miles to the ſouthward of Simon's bay. Our obſervatory was ſituated near the ſouth point of - 4. H 2. this 1 16 A voy AGE OF DIscovery [August, this bay, and its latitude, deduced from 26 me- ridional altitudes of the ſun and ſtars, was 34° 11° 40"; this, on allowing the diſtance to the Cape. point, will be nearly found to agree with its la- titude; which was further confirmed by our ob- ſervations on paſſing it the day we entered Falſe. bay. M By the firſt obſervations, made on ſhore, the chronometer ſhewed the longitude to be 18° 30'. 45", which was 17° 45" to the eaſtward of the truth, and correſponded with what has been ſtated before, that it was not gaining at the rate we had allowed: further obſervations, however, demonſtrated that, although it might have been gaining leſs during the paſſage, it was now evi- dently gaining on its Portſmouth rate, and was found on the 8th of Auguſt at noon, to be faſt of mean time at Greenwich, 17' 40" 6", and gain- ing on mean time at the rate of 9" 28" per day, Mr. Arnold's chronometer was found to have gone but indifferently on board the Chatham; and, at the obſervatory, it was faſt of mean time at Greenwich 1" 18' 48" 6", and gaining on mean time at the rate of 16" 11” 8" per day. The variation of the magnetic needle, taken at the obſervatory by our different compaſſes and cards, in twenty ſets of azimuths, varied from 24° 3’ to 27° 48'; the mean reſult being 25° 40' weſt va- riation. - * - J. - The \ 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. " 1 17 The vertical inclination of the ſouth point of the magnetic needle was obſerved to be Marked end North, face Eaſt, 48° 30' Ditto North, face Weſt, 48 20 Ditto South, face Eaſt, 48 40 Ditto South, face Weſt, 48 30 º Mean inclination of the ſouth point of the dipping needle 48 3 O N. B. The longitude throughout the voyage, and until our arrival at St. Helena, on our re- turn to Europe, will be reckoned eaſtward. The latitude inſerted in the following chapters, and until the 13th of February, 1792, when it will be otherwiſe diſtinguiſhed, is to be received, and conſidered as ſouth latitude. The poſitive or relative ſituations of all coaſts, capes, promontories, iſlands, rocks, ſands, break- ers, bays, ports, &c. &c. will hereafter be ſtated as true, or by the world; and thoſe bearings which will be taken from any local ſituation, whether en board the veſſels, or in the boats, will be in- ſºrted according to compaſs, and be ſo expreſſed, H 3 CHAPTER * 18 A voy AGE OF DIscoverty [AUGUST, CHAPTER II. Departure from Falſe Bay—Death of Neil Coil by the Flux–Proceed towards the Coaſt of New Holland—-Diſcover King George the Third's Sound—Tranſactions there—Leave King George the Third's Sound—Departure from the South- weſt Coaſt of New Holland. - HE nature of our voyage rendering every -º- precaution neceſſary to prevent, as far as was poſſible, a ſeparation of the veſſels, Mr. Broughton, in caſe of parting company, was pro- vided with a liſt of rendezvous; and, the better to inſure our rejoining, I now deemed it expe- dient that he ſhould be furniſhed with a copy of my inſtructions, and the route I intended to pur- ſue; together with ample directions, that, in the event of a total ſeparation, he might be en- abled to carry the objects of the expedition into execution. -- Although our ſtay at the Cape had far exceeded my expectations, yet I did not abandon the de- ſign of viſiting the S. W. part of New Holland. The ſeaſon would probably be too far advanced for acquiring ſo much information as I could have 1794.] ROUND THE WORLE). 1 19 have wiſhed, yet there ſtill remained a fair proſ- pect of obtaining ſome intelligence, which would render the taſk leſs difficult to thoſe, whoſe par- ticular object it might hereafter be to explore that country. I therefore on ſailing out of Falſe bay, appointed our next rendezvous off, what in the charts is called Lyon's Land, in about the 35th degree of ſouth latitude—in caſe of ſe- paration to cruiſe there two days; and, not meeting with the Diſcovery, then to proceed agreeably to other inſtructions. The Albemarle, Admiral Barrington, and Bri- tannia tranſports bound to port Jackſon, followed us out of the bay: of theſe ſhips, as well as of the African coaſt, we took leave in the even- ing, and directed our courſe to the ſouthward. During the night, the wind veered to the N. W. and blew ſo hard a gale that we were obliged to double reef the topſails and take in the foreſail, as the Chatham was a great diſtance aſtern; and not being in ſight at day-break, we hauled to the wind : about ſeven ſhe was ſeen to the weſtward, and, having joined company, we ſteered to the S. S. E. together. The N. W. wind gradually increaſed, attended with violent ſqualls and heavy rain, until Saturday the 20th, when it became a perfect ſtorm, obliging us to ſtrike the top gal- lant maſts, and reducing us to the foreſail, which We Were neceſſitated to carry, though under great H 4 appre- 120 A voyAGE OF DIscovery [AUGUST, apprehenſion of its being blown to pieces, in or- der that we might reach a more temperate re- gion. The ſea ran exceſſively high, and the wind in violent flurries raiſed the ſpray into a kind of fog, or miſt, which at intervals was quite ſalt, when not mixed with the ſhowers of rain, which were frequent, and very heavy : in one of theſe we again loſt fight of the Chatham, and ſeeing nothing of her on its clearing away, the foreſail was furled, and the ſhip brought to, under the ſtorm ſtayſails. In this ſituation, the Diſcovery proved much eaſier and drier than we had reaſon to expect, as ſhe was now extremely deep with ſtores and proviſions. At this time, we were vi- ſited by many albatroſſes, and an innumerable variety of birds of the petrel tribe. About noon on Sunday the 21ſt our conſort was again in ſight, and on her joining company, we reſumed our courſe to the S. E. under the foreſail. This very boiſterous weather, accompanied with much thunder and lightning, continued with intermiſ. ſions ſufficient only to tempt our ſpreading ſome additional canvas, (which was ſcarcely unfurled before it was again neceſſary to take it in) until Monday the 22d.; when it ſo far moderated aS to permit the cloſe reefed topſails to be kept ſet. In the afternoon, we paſſed the Albemarle and Admiral Barrington. The fight of theſe veſſels was very grateful to our feelings, particularly of - * * the 1704) Roux D THE wori, D. 12 1 the latter, which we had underſtood was an old debilitated ſhip, for whoſe ſafety during the late violent ſtormy weather we had been greatly ap- prehenſive. The wind, in the morning of Tueſ. day the 23d, being moderate, the top-gallant, and ſtudding-ſails were ſet ; the weather, how- ever, was unſettled, with ſhowers of hail and rain; and a heavy irregular ſwell rolled at the ſame time from the northward and ſouth weſt. In the intervals of fine weather, I got ſome lunar obſervations which ſhewed the longitude at noon to be 31° 55'; the chronometer by the Portſ- mouth rate 31°29′; by the Cape rate 31°42'; the latitude 39° 8'. Many whales were now playing about the ſhip, but a leſs number of oceanic birds attended us than uſual. The weather being tolerably fair on Wedneſ- day the 24th, enabled me to make ſome further lunar obſervations. The mean reſult of theſe, and thoſe taken the preceding day brought for- ward by the chronometer, ſhewed the longitude at noon to be 34° 18'. By this expreſſion is to be underſtood the ſpace eaſt or weſt, which the ſhip may have paſſed over in the interval of time be- tween the taking one ſet of lunar obſervations and that of another; the extent of which ſpace is aſcertained, not according to the vague mode of the ſhip's run, as appears by the log, but from the diſtance ſhewn by the chronometer; whereby the * Q2 . A voy AGE OF Discovery [August, the reſult of many obſervations made in different ſituations are reduced to any one particular point. The chronometer at this time, by the Portſ- mouth rate, ſhewed 33° 50', by the Cape rate 34°5", the latitude 39°28', and the longitude by account 36° 17'. The weather continued very changeable; but the wind being gentle in the northern quarter afforded an opportunity of ſend- ing on board the Chatham, whence we under- ſtood that, in conſequence of a violent ſea hav- ing ſtove in the midſhip ſtern window on the morning of the 20th, it had been neceſſary to bring to until that damage was repaired. The wind freſhened, attended with frequent ſqualls, on Friday the 26th; when, having reached latitude 39°45′, longitude 37°53', we were able for the firſt time ſince our departure from the Cape to obſerve the variation; which, by the mean reſult of two compaſſes, differing from 32°53' to 35° 5', was found to be 32° 59' weſt- wardly. In the ſpace we were now approaching, namely, between the meridians of 38° 33' and 43°47′ eaſt longitude, and the parallels of 34° 24′, and 38° 20' ſouth latitude, ſeven different ſhoals are ſaid to exiſt. To acquire ſome information reſpecting a circumſtance ſo intereſting to navi- gation, I had held this ſouthwardly courſe; but the very ſtormy weather we had lately contended with, and the appearance of its again returning, rendered 1794.3 ROUND THE WORLD. 123 rendered a ſearch for theſe ſhoals not altogether prudent. To attempt the examination of the whole ſpace I confidered as not more neceſſary than diſcreet; but ſince in the event of their ex- iſtence, it was highly probably they would be found connected, I was induced to ſhape a courſe ſo as to fall in with the ſouth-eaſternmoſt, ſaid to lie in latitude 38°20', longitude 43°43', which had been reported to have been ſeen by ſeveral Dutch veſſels. On Sunday the 28th, in lati- tude 38° 56', longitude 42° 30', the wind at W. S. W. increaſing with great violence obliged me to deſiſt from this enquiry, and for our own ſafety, in the event of theſe ſhoals having exiſ- tence, to havl to the S. E. The gale ſoon be- came a ſtorm, attended with heavy ſqualls, hail, rain, and a moſt tremendous ſea from the weſt- ward and S.W. which made it neceſſary to ſtrike the top-gallant maſts, and reduced us to the fore- ſail; which, with great apprehenſion of loſing it, we were obliged to carry in order to paſs clear of the ſpace aſſigned to theſe hidden dangers. It is, however, worthy of remark, that, notwithſtand- ing our courſe was direéted ſo wide of the allot- ted ſpot, we certainly paſſed it at no great diſ- tance in the night, as by our obſervations th next day, Monday the 29th, inſtead of making fourteen miles ſouthing, which the reckoning gave, we found ourſelves twelve miles to the north H 24. A voy AGE of Discoverty [AUGUST, north of the latitude we were in the preceding day, the longitude 45° 4'. Whether this diffe- rence is to be aſcribed to any current produced by the interruption theſe ſhoals may give to the oceanic waters, when preſſed eaſtwardly by the prevailing weſtwardly winds, or to the bad ſteer- age of the ſhip, cannot be poſitively determined; but as the Chatham ſteered preciſely the ſame courſe, the inference ſeems rather favorable to our having been influenced by a current occa- fioned probably by the exiſtence of ſuch ſhoals. On the violence of the ſtorm abating, we made fail and reſumed our eaſtwardly courſe, intending to paſs in ſight of the iſlands of St. Paul and Am- fterdam. During the gale we were viſited by a great number of the various kinds of oceanic birds; yet theſe by no means ſeemed to indicate the vicinity of land or ſhoals, ſince they are con- fiantly met with throughout the ſouthern ocean. The weather that ſucceeded this ſtorm being delightfully pleaſant, attended with a ſmooth ſea, and a gentle gale between the north and N. E. made me regret that we had not experi- enced this favorable change ſomewhat earlier, as it would probably have enabled us to have ac- quired ſome ſatisfactory information as to the ex- 'iſtence of the ſhoals in queſtion; but having now no leiſure for this inquiry, I was obliged to reſt contented with having exerted our fruitleſs en- \ .- deavours 1794 ..] round THE WORLD, . 125 deavours in the attempt, and enubraced this va- luable opportunity of getting ourſelves and ſhip clean, dry, and comfortable; which ſince our leaving the land had been very ill effected. The flux ſtill continued amongſt us, and ſome of our patients were yet very much indiſpoſed; we however were in hopes that the preſent fair weather would ſoon reſtore to us the bleſfings of health. Some good obſervations were procured in the courſe of this day, Tueſday the 30th, and of the preceding day with our different compaſ- fes: thoſe taken on the 31ſt differed from 30° 45" to 35° 45'; and thoſe on Thurſday the firſt of September from 30° 58' to 35° 7'; the mean re- ſult of ſeven ſets of azimuths was 32°47′ weſt- wardly variation; the latitude at noon 38° 10', and the longitude 51° 21'. We were not long indulged with a continuance of the fine weather: the wind gradually veered to the N. W. and weſtward, and increaſed to a freſh gale; which, however, did not reduce us below the top-ſails; although the weather bore a very threatening ap- pearance; the ſky was obſcured with dark gloomy clouds, from which ſome rain fell; yet the ſea was ſmooth, and the weather altogether was in- finitely more pleaſant than we had lately expe- rienced. - At noon on Sunday the 4th, in latitude 38o 6', longitude 61° 30', the firſt ſeal we had ſeen ſince - OUIT" 126 A voy AGE of piscovery [sept. oùr departure from the Cape amuſed itſelf in playing about the ſhip for ſome time; but our companions, the oceanic birds, had not lately been very numerous; theſe viſitors were moſtly pintadoes, and other ſmall birds of the petrel tribe. - - Four ſets of lunar obſervations were obtained on Monday the 5th, which ſhewed the longi- tude to be 64° 14' 40", the chronometer by the Portſmouth rate 63° 46', and by the Cape rate 64° 10', the latitude 37° 52'. The variation on Wedneſday the 7th, in latitude 38° 15' and lon- gitude 60° 33', was obſerved to be 25° 52' weſt- wardly. The ſame gloomy weather continued with a freſh gale at N. N. W. In the night we had the misfortune to loſe Neil Coil, one of the marines, who fell a ſacrifice to the baneful ef- fects of the flux caught at the Cape, which at- tacked him with much greater violence than any other perſon on board. He was an exceedingly good man; his loſs was ſenſibly felt, and much regretted. In addition to this calamity, diſaſters of the ſame nature ſeemed not likely to termi- nate : another of our people, who had ſuffered very ſeverely by this dreadful contagion, but who was ſo much recovered as to be nearly equal to his duty, was ſo affected by this poor fellow's diſſolution, that he relapſed with very unfavor- able ſymptoms. Our convaleſcents were ſtill . numerous ; 1794.] troty ND THE WORLD. 127 numerous; and the work of death having com- menced, we knew not where it might end, or where we could recruit the ſtrength which we might thus loſe ; our whole complement being ſcarcely equal, when in the higheſt health, to the ſervice we had to perform. One refle&tion was, however, highly ſatisfactory; that, in point of comfort, and profeſſional aſſiſtance, no one thing within our power to ſupply, had been omitted for the preſent relief of the diſtreſs, or for the prevention of any melancholy conſequences in future; and we truſted, with the Divine bleſfing, and a ſteady adherence to the condućt, which we had obſerved, finally to ſubdue and extirpate this dreadful malady. In the evening of Thurſday the 8th I took ſome lunar diſtances with the ſtar Antares, which, with thoſe taken on the 5th, ſhewed the longi- tude by their mean reſult, to be 73° 44'; the chro- nometer by the Portſmouth rate 73° 1', and by the Cape rate 73° 27'; the latitude 38° 45', and the variation 23° 36' weſtwardly. The next evening, agreeably to our reckoning, we were paſſing between the iſlands of St. Paul and Amſterdam, diſtant from the latter about five or ſix leagues. The weather was thick and rainy, yet I continued to hope that a favorable interval would enable us to ſee one or both of theſe iſlands, having ſteered this eaſtwardly courſe with 123 A voyAGE OF DIscovery [sept. v, with a wiſh to correót an error that appears in Captain Cook's charts of the ſouthern hemi- ſphere. In theſe the iſland of St. Paul is laid down in the latitude of 37° 50', correſponding with the ſituation aſſigned to it in the requiſite tables; and to the north of this iſland, in about the lati- tude of 30°40' is placed another called the iſland of Amſterdam: now the iſland which Mr. Cox in the Mercury ſtopped at, and called Amſter- dam, is in fight of and ſituated 17 leagues to the ſouth of the iſland of St. Paul. Captain Bligh, in the Bounty, alſo ſaw the ſame iſland, and allots to it nearly the ſame ſituation as does Mr. Cox. For theſe reaſons, if there be an iſland to the north of St. Paul, in latitude 36° 40', there muſt be three inſtead of two of theſe iſlands, which I believe has never been underſtood to be the fact. The weather, however, prechuded my forming a juſt opinion as to this point, which I fully intended to aſcertain, could we have ſeen either of the iſlands; but the rain and haze con- tinuing to obſcure every object at the diſtance of two leagues, we perceived no indication of the vicinity of land, notwithſtanding the immenſe - number of whales and ſeals which are ſaid to fre- quent theſe iſlands. Of the latter we did not fee any, and of the former but one; which was the only whale we had obſerved ſince that men- tioned on the 23d of laſt month, F rom hence towards 1791.] Round the world. 129 towards the coaſt of New Holland, Our courſe was direéted between the tracks of Dampier and M. Marion, over a ſpace, I believe, hitherto un- frequented. In this route, aſſiſted by a fine gale between north and W. N. W. we made great progreſs, ſo that our obſerved latitude on Sunday the 18th was 36° 49', longitude 103° 48': for ſome days paſt we had experienced a very heavy ſwell from the S. W. though the wind prevailed from the northward. . . . . . The ſituation of that part of New Holland for which we were now ſteering, being ill defined, and a probability exiſting that banks might ex- tend a conſiderable diſtance into the ocean, we tried, but gained no ſoundings with 180 fathoms of line. On Monday the 19th, in latitude 36° 45", longitude 105° 47', the variation was obſerv- ed to be 14° 10' weſtwardly. The wind at N. N. E. attended with heavy ſqualls and rain, in- creaſed with ſuch violence, as to oblige us to ſtrike the top-gallant maſts, and to furl the top- ſails. The pintado birds that, for ſome days paſt, had nearly diſappeared, again viſited the ſhip, accompanied by a great variety of the petrel tribe, with ſome albatroſſes; and it now ſeemed evident, that the appearance of theſe inhabitants of the ocean, was increaſed in point of numbers and in variety, in proportion to the violence of the wind; as in moderate weather few only were VoI. I. I viſible. 130 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [sfpºr. viſible. We continued to try for ſoundings at certain intervals, but did not reach bottom at the depth of 180 fathoms. The wind at W. S. W. blew a ſtrong gale, and the night of Tueſday the 20th being dark and ſqually, we hauled to the wind, and plied; left the land, which is re- preſented as very low, or ſhoals, might be nearer than we expected; at day-break we again re- fumed our eaſtwardly courſe, obſerving every night the like precautions. . . In the morning of Friday the 23d, conceiving that the land could not be at any great diſtance, and that the coaſt might lie to the north of the courſe we were ſteering, the Chatham's ſignal was made to look out on the larboard beam. The wind from the weſtward blew a ſtrong gale, ac- companied with a very heavy ſea; but the ſky - being clear, permitted me to obtain ſome good lunar obſervations, which, with thoſe taken on the 21ſt, ſhewed the longitude at noon to be 1 14° 14'; the chronometer, by the Portſmouth rate 113° 32', by the Cape rate 113° 55', the la- titude 35° 7'. Soon after mid-day, the wind at W. S. W. increaſed to a very heavy gale; and not chooſing, under ſuch circumſtances, to make too free with a coaſt entirely unexplored; we hauled the wind to the ſouthward, under the foreſail and ſtorm ſtayſails. Towards ſun-ſet, land was ſaid to be ſeen from the maſt-head to the 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. I 31 the E. N. E. and, although this was not abſo- lutely certain, yet it was extremely probable, as we had paſſed ſeveral leagues over the ſpace aſ- ſigned to Lyon's Land in moſt of the maps. A preſs of ſail was now carried in order to keep to the windward, having no bottom at the depth of 120 fathoms; in conſequence of which, and a very heavy ſea, the larboard fide of the head, with the bumkin, &c. was entirely torn away. On the gale's moderating the next morning, Sa- turday the 24th, we ſtood to the north, in queſt of the land; but ſome of the officers conceiving they ſaw land to the S.E. we hauled our wind again in that direction until noon, in latitude 35, 28', longitude 115° 10', when, being diſappoint- ed, we again ſtood to the north, under double reefed topſails, until eight in the evening: we then tacked to ſpend the night, which bore a very threatening appearance, over a ſpace we were already acquainted with, and found bottom at 70 fathoms depth, compoſed of white ſand, and broken ſhells; the latitude at this time was 34°51', the longitude 115° 12'. The very gloomy appearance of the night rendered our carrying a preſs of ſail indiſpenſably neceſſary to preſerve an offing, as the ſoundings ſtrongly indicated the land not to be diſtant. . During the night we did not reach the bottom with 100 fathoms of line; and the morning of Sunday the 25th, evinced I 2 Our 132, A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [sept. our conjećtures reſpecting the weather not to be ill founded; as, about four o'clock, the ſlings of the main yard were carried away; to replace which, we were compelled to furl all the ſails on the main-maſt; but, before this could be ac- compliſhed, the increaſed violence of the ſtorm obliged us to take in all our canvas but the fore- ſail, to ſtrike the top gallant maſts, and to get in the jib-boom and ſprit-ſail yard. In this ſitua- tion we continued until towards ſun-ſet, when having no bottom with 1 1 0 fathoms of line, we ſtood to the N. W. under cloſe-reefed topſails, in the full aſſurance of meeting the land in that direction. In the courſe of the night, the gale gradually abated, and in the forenoon of the next day, Monday the 26th, the wind becoming per- fectly calm, an opportunity was afforded us of repairing the many damages which our rigging had ſuſtained in the late boiſterous weather. At noon the obſerved latitude was 35° 23', the lon- gitude 115° 52'; in this ſituation, foundings could not be gained at the depth of 220 fathoms. In the afternoon a light breeze ſprang up, from the northward, with which we ſteered to the north-eaſtward, and ſoon diſcovered land from the maſt-head, bearing by compaſs from N. E. to N. 27 E. It ſeemed of a moderate height, re- ſembling in appearance the land in the Britiſh Channel, and was ſuppoſed to be about ten or twelve 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 1 33 twelve leagues diſtant—No foundings with 120 fathoms of line. The wind veering to the N. W. enabled us to ſteer for the land, and having neared it about three leagues, it was ſeen from the deck bearing from N. 7 E. to N. 73 E. by compaſs; at which time, bottom was found at the depth of 65 fathoms, compoſed of coarſe ſand, and broken coral. The depth of water had, at eight in the evening, gradually decreaſed to 50 fathoms; when, having advanced about four miles nearer, we tacked and plied in order to pre- ſerve our ſituation with the land until morning. By the reſult of our ſoundings during the night, 70 fathoms would ſeem to be the edge of a bank about nine leagues from the ſhore, con- ſiſting of fine ſand, and broken ſhells, correſpond- ing with the ſoundings we had found on the 24th; for had that depth of water been nearer in ſhore, we could hardly have avoided ſeeing the land before dark on that evening. At the dawning of day on the 27th, we made all ſail for the land, having a gentle gale from the N. W. with a ſmooth ſea and pleaſant wea- ther. The depth of water, as we proceeded, gradually decreaſed to 24 fathoms, with a bottom of coral, coarſe ſand, and ſhells; about nine we were well in with the land, and bore away along the coaſt, keeping within a league or two of the ſhore ; which by the compaſs ſtretched from N. I 3 44 W. 134 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [SEPT. 44 W. to N. 81 E. and appeared nearly ſtraight and compact, conſiſting of ſteep rºcky cliffs to the water's edge, interſperſed with, here and there, ſome ſmall open ſandy bays, and a few iſlets and rocks, which extended near a mile from the main. The weſternmoſt land now in fight (being the northernmoſt ſeen the preceding night) is remarkable for its high cliffs, falling perpendi- cularly into the ſea; and if it be detached, which is by no means certain, is about a league in cir- cuit. It forms a conſpicuous promontory, to which I gave the name of CAPE CHATHAM; in honor of that noble earl, who preſided at the Board of Admiralty on our departure from Eng- land. The land to the weſtward takes a direc- tion from cape Chatham N. 59 W. and the land to the eaſtward S. 81 E. This Cape, by our ob- ſervations is ſituated in latitude 35° 3", and in 116° 35' 30" of longitude. The flux ſtill continued to affect the health of ſome in both veſſels; and although the patients were daily aſfifted with freſh proviſions, and might be conſidered in a ſtate of recovery, yet they remained in a very debilitated and reduced condition. In the hope that a little recreation, from change of ſcene and what the ſoil of this country might afford, would prove ſalutary to their enfeebled conſtitutions, I determined to put into the firſt port we ſhould be ſo fortunate as to diſcover ; 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 135 diſcover; and, that an eligible fituation might not eſcape our vigilance, we ranged the coaſt within three or four miles of its ſhores, which are of moderate elevation, and may in general be deemed ſteep and bold. The verdure on all the projećting points is removed to a conſiderable height on the rocks, whoſe naked baſes ſuffi- ciently prove how exceſſively they are beaten by a turbulent ocean. The country, immediately along the ſea ſide, conſiſts of a range of dreary hills, producing little herbage, of a browniſh green hue, from a ſoil that ſeems principally compoſed of white ſand, through which protrude large maſſes of white rock of various ſizes and forms: theſe ſingular protuberances on the ſum- mits of many of the hills, ſtrongly reſembled the remains of lofty edifices in ruin. The interior country afforded a more agreeable appearance, being pleaſantly interſperſed with hills and dales, and covered with lofty foreſt trees of conſiderable magnitude, which our glaſſes plainly diſtinguiſh- ed; though we could no where perceive any ſmoke or other indication of the country being inhabited. Towards noon, the Chatham made the ſignal for having diſcovered a port to the northward; into which they were direéted to lead; but finding it only a ſhallow bay, we ſoon bore away along the coaſt. Our obſerved lati- tude was 35° 8', longitude 117°6' 30". In this I 4 ſituation, | 136 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [SIPT. ſituation, the coaſt, by compaſs, extended from N. 68 W. to S. 83 E., the neareſt ſhore bearing N. 6 W. about a league diſtant; in the morning the variation by our ſurveying compaſs was ob- ſerved to be 6° 30' weſtwardly. The coaſt we paſſed along in the afternoon differed little from that noticed in the morning, but the inland country was not ſufficiently elevated to be ſeen beyond the hills near the ſea ſide. At ſix in the evening, a ſmall detached iſlet bore, by compaſs, S. 87 E. the eaſternmoſt part of the main in ſight N. 86 E. a projecting point whence extends weſtward a long range of white cliffs N. 76 E. the neareſt ſhore N. 24 E. diſtant five miles; and the weſternmoſt land in fight, the ſame which formed the eaſtern extreme at noon, N. 45 W. The wind was very gentle with alternate calms, and the weather, during the night, was mild and pleaſant. In the morning of Wedneſday the 28th, we found our progreſs had been very ſlow along the coaſt, although our diſtance from the ſhore had increaſed, with ſoundings from 40 to 50 fathoms. We had again an opportunity of obſerving the ſun eclipſed, but were not ſo fortu- nate as to notice its commencement, or greateſt obſcuration; the end was however obſerved by Mr. Whidbey to be at 19° 43' 53", and by my- ſelf 19° 43' 40" apparent time; this was aſcer- tained by our ſextant teleſcope, as recommended - {}ll 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 137 on a former occaſion. I much regretted that we had not gained a port on this coaſt, where, on ſhore, we might have compared ſuch obſerva- tions with the reſults from better inſtruments, which would have tended to eſtabliſh the utility of the proceſs. The latitude at this juncture was 35° 25'. It was now proved, that the white cliffs ſeen the preceding night, formed the ſouth- ernmoſt point of this part of the coaſt, which I diſtinguiſhed by the name of CAPE. How E, in honor of that noble earl. It is ſituated in lati- tude 35° 17', longitude 1 17° 52'. The ſmall de- tached iſlet lies from cape Howe S. 68 E. diſtant three leagues. The land conſidered on Tueſday night as the eaſternmoſt part of the main now appeared to be an iſland, beyond which were ſeen a high rocky bluff point, and a high mountain forming the eaſternmoſt land in fight. A light breeze from the N. N.W. permitted us to draw in with the coaſt; which at noon bore by com- paſs from N. 50 W. to N. 37 E. the high moun- tain N. 35 E. to the eaſtward of which, a round hummock, ſeemingly detached N. 52 E. the land appearing like an iſland from N. 16 W. to N. 24 W. was now ſeen to comprehend a cluſter of barren rocky iſles, which being the neareſt land was about ten miles diſtant; and the high rocky bluff point N. 8 E. In this ſituation, the ob- ſerved latitude was 35° 22', longitude 1 18° 16'; which l 38 A VOYAGE OF DISCO W ERY [SEPT. which was eight miles further ſouth, and eleven miles further eaſt than the log ſhewed. Many whales were playing about the ſhip during the morning. The high mountain conſpicuouſly re- markable for its ſuperior elevation above the neighbouring hills, I diſtinguiſhed, after my highly eſteemed friend Sir Alan Gardner, by the name of Mo UNT GARD NER ; and the barren rocky cluſter of iſles, by the name of Eclipse ISLANDs. The weather was pleaſant; and aided by a gentle breeze, a port, round the high rocky bluff point, ſoon preſented itſelf, into which the Chatham was directed to lead, and, by four, was ſufficiently advanced to determine on its eligi- bility. The weather by this time had become thick and rainy, with much thunder and light- ning; but as the ſoundings continued regular, we {tood into the port, and paſſed the high rocky bluff point in thirty fathoms water ; directing our courſe cloſe along its ſhore, which is a high and nearly perpendicular cliff; the ſounding ſud- denly ſhoaled to twelve fathoms, and gradually decreaſed afterwards, until abreaſt of the ſecond white ſandy beach ; where we anchored in ſix ſathoms water, having a clear bottom of fine white ſand. A continuation of the thick weather prevented our ſeeing about us until the morning of Thurſ- day the 29th ; which being delightfully ſerenc ſº ,' and & 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 139 and pleaſant, diſcovered our ſituation to Uc very ſnug and ſecure in a ſpacious ſound, open 13° of the compaſs only to the ſea. The high rocky bluff point forming the S. W. extremity of the ſound, which, from its ſmooth appearance, and being deſtitute of verdure, obtained the name BALD-HEAD, bore by compaſs S. 85 E. ; a high rocky iſland in the entrance, which, from its beaten appearance by its oppoſition to the ſea, and S. W. wind, obtained the name of BREAK- SEA ISLAND, from N. 82 E. to N. 09 E. ; Mount Gardner, N. 70 E.; another high iſland named Mich AELMAS ISLAND, N. 02 E. ; a ſmall high iſland called SEAL ISLAND, being a great reſort of thoſe animals, north ; a low flat rock, S. 75 W.; and to the N. W. was an ex- tenſive white ſandy beach; which promiſing ſuc- ceſs to the ſeine, a boat was diſpatched with Lieutenant Puget on a fiſhing party. After breakfaſt, accompanied by Mr. Broughton in the Chatham's cutter, Mr. Menzies, Mr. Whidbey, and myſelf, proceeded in the yawl, firſt to attend the ſucceſs of the fiſhermen, and then to examine if the ſound would afford a more eligible ſitua- tion than that which we now occupied. The ſeine was hauled on the third ſandy beach from Bald-Head with little ſucceſs. A ſtream of freſh water drained there through the beach, which, although nearly of the colour of brandy, WaS 14 O A VOYAGE OF D (3 COV ERY [sept. was exceedingly well taſted; by this ſtream W3S a clump of trees, ſufficient to anſwer our preſent want of fuel. At the borders of this clump was found the moſt miſerable human habitation my eyes ever beheld, which had not long been de- ferted by its proprietor, as on its top was lying a freſh ſkin of a fiſh, commonly called leather jacket, and by its ſide was the excrement of ſome carnivorous animal, apparently a dog. The ſhape of the dwelling was that of half a beehive, or a hive vertically divided into two equal parts, one of which formed the hut, in height about three feet, and in diameter about four feet and an half; it was however conſtructed with ſome degree of uniformity, with ſlight twigs, of no greater ſub- {tance than thoſe uſed for large baker's baſkets: the horizontal and vertical twigs formed inter- vals from four to fix inches ſquare, and the lat- ter ſticking a few inches into the earth, were its ſecurity, and fixed it to the ground. This kind of baſket hut was covered with the bark of trees, and ſmall green boughs; its back was oppoſed to the N. W. whence we concluded thoſe to be the moſt prevailing winds; juſt within its front, which was open the whole of its diameter, a fire had becil made, but excepting the ſkin of the fiſh before-mentioned, there were neither bones, ſhells, nor other indication on what its poor in- habitant had ſubſiſted. The refle&tions which r naturally 1791.] Round the world. | 4 | naturally aroſe on ſeeing ſo miſerable a contriv- ance for ſhelter againſt the inclemency of ſea- ſons, were humiliating in the higheſt degree; as they ſuggeſted, in the ſtrongeſt manner, the lowly condition of ſome of our fellow creatures, rendered yet more pitiable by the apparent ſoli- tude and the melancholy aſpect of the ſurround- ing country, which preſented little leſs than fa- mine and diſtreſs. The ſhores conſiſted either of ſteep naked rocks, or a milk-white barren ſand, beyond which dreary boundary the ſurface of the ground ſeemed covered by a deadly green herbage, with here and there a few groveling ſhrubs or dwarf trees ſcat- tered at a great diſtance from each other. This very unfavorable appearance may not, however, originate from the general ſterility of the ſoil, ſince it was evident, ſo far as we traverſed the ſides of the hills, that the vegetation had recently undergone the action of fire; the largeſt of the trees had been burnt, though ſlightly; every ſhrub had ſome of its branches completely char- red; and the plants lying cloſe to the ground had not eſcaped without injury. Thus entertaining no very high opinion of the country, but in the hope of meeting with ſome of the wretched in- habitants, we proceeded along the ſhores of the ſound, to the northward, to a high rocky point, that obtained the name of Point Possession ; and, | 42 A W QYAGE OF DISCOVERY [SEPT. and, on reaching its ſummit, we gained an ex- cellent view of the ſound in all directions. When on board, we had ſuppoſed that the ſound branch- ed into three arms, but it now became evident that there were only two. One, immediately behind this point, which is alſo its ſouthern point of entrance, extended in a circular form, about a league acroſs, bounded by a country much re- ſembling that before deſcribed, though produc- ing more trees, and with verdure of a livelier hue, and approaching nearer to the water's edge. The other, lying about three miles to the N. E. ſeemed almoſt as ſpacious, though its entrance appeared very narrow. The ſurrounding coun- try in its neighbourhood preſented a far more fertile and pleaſing aſpect. Nearly in the centre of that harbour was an iſland covered with the moſt beautiful herbage; and inſtead of the naked rocks and barren ſands that compoſe the coaſt of the ſound, the cliffs which bounded theſe ſhores ſeemed to be of a reddiſh clay, and the general texture or charaćter of the ſoil appeared to be more favorable to the vegetable kingdom, as from the ſummits of the hills to the water ſide was ſeen a ſtately and luxuriant foreſt. The neceſſary obſervations being made at this ſtation, the Britiſh colours were diſplayed, and having drank his Majeſty's health, accompanied by the uſual formalities on ſuch occaſions, we took 1791.] Round THE world. 1 43 took poſſeſſion of the country from the land we ſaw north-weſtward of cape Chatham, ſo far as we might explore its coaſts, in the name of his preſent Majeſty, for him and for his heirs and ſucceſſors. This port, the firſt which we had diſcovered, I honored with the name of KING GeoR GE THE THIRD’s So UN D ; and this day being the anniverſary of her Royal Highneſs Princeſs Charlotte Auguſta Matilda's birth, the harbour behind point Poſſeſſion I called PRIN- cess Roy AL HARB our ; which with the ſound formed point Poſſeſſion into a peninſula, united to the main by a very narrow barren ſandy beach. Here although we could not difcover the leaſt trace of its having at any time been the reſort of the natives, yet in every part where we ſtrayed, were ſeen the ſame effects of fire on all the ve- getable produćtions. - The ceremony of taking poſſeſſion being finiſh- ed, we found a paſſage, narrow and ſhoal for ſome diſtance, into the north-eaſtern harbour; where a bar was found to extend acroſs its entrance, on which there was only three fathoms water. Within the harbour, the deep water ſeemed to occupy ſome ſpace to the N. E. and N. W.; but the day was too far advanced, to permit our making any particular examination. The ver- dant iſland covered with luxuriant graſs and other vegetables, terminated the extent of our reſearches; 1 1/4 A vox AGE OF Discovery [oct. reſearches; and as the ſituation of the veſſels ſeemed as convenient as any other for procuring what the ſound might afford, I determined to return on board, and loſe no time in availing myſelf of the benefits it preſented. In our way out of this harbour, the boats grounded on a bank we had not before perceived; this was co- vercd with oyſters of a moſt delicious flavour, on which we ſumptuouſly regaled; and, loading in about half an hour, the boats for our friends on board, we commemorated the diſcovery by call- ing it OYSTER HARB ou R. * In the morning of Friday the 30th, we began cutting wood and providing water, which ſuffi- ciently employed all our healthy men; whilſt thoſe who were ſtill indiſpoſed were directed to amuſe themſelves on ſhore. Finding it practi- cable to place the ſhip much nearer to the ſpot whence the wood and water were procured, the next day, Saturday the 1ſt of Oétober, ſhe was removed; and, by Sunday the 2d, we had made ſuch progreſs, that the yawl could be ſpared for the further examination of the ſound. In her I proceeded to Princeſs Royal harbour, where, near a rocky cliff, on the S. W. fide, was found a ſmall ſhallow ſtream of excellent water. On tracing its meanders through a copſe it brought us to a deſerted village of the natives, amidſt the trees, on nearly a level ſpot of ground, conſiſting of about 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 145 about two dozen miſerable huts moſtly of the ſame faſhion and dimenſions, with that before deſcribed, though no one of them ſeemed ſo re- cently erected. This village had probably been the reſidence of what may in this country be eſ- teemed a conſiderable tribe; and the conſtruction of it afforded us an opportunity of concluding, that however humble the ſtate of their exiſtence might be, they were not deſtitute of diſtinétions. Two or three huts were larger, and differed in ſhape from the reſt, as if a couple were fixed cloſe to the ſide of each other; but the parts which in that caſe would have cauſed a ſeparation, were removed, and the edges joined cloſe together, as deſcribed in the plate, leaving the whole of their fronts open, and increaſing their diameter about one third more than the reſt. Yet were they not an inch loftier, nor were they of greater ex- tent from the front to the back than the ſingle one before-mentioned. Fires had been made in the fronts of all, but not recently; and, except- ing ſome branches of trees that ſeemed to have been lately broken down, there were not any ſigns of this place having been viſited for ſome time; and although we were very induſtrious to aſcertain the food on which the inhabitants of this village ſubſiſted, we ſtill remained in igno- rance of it; as neither ſhells, bones, nor any other relićts, which might ſerve as indications, Vol. I. K could J 16 A voy. AGE OF DISCOVERY [oct. could be found, notwithſtanding this place had the appearance of a principal reſort; for beſides the habitations already mentioned, which were in pretty good repair, there were many others in different ſtates of decay. This ſpot was inter- ſected with ſeveral ſmall ſtreams of water, yet the ſame marks of fire were evident on all the vegetable kingdom ; although none of the huts ſeemed to have been affected by it, which led me to ſuppoſe that this general fire was of a leſs re- cent date than at firſt I had imagined. In one of the larger huts, probably the reſidence of a chief, towards which were ſeveral paths leading in different directions, ſome beads, nails, knives, looking glaſſes, and medals, were depoſited as tokens of our friendly diſpoſition, and to induce any of the natives, who might, unperceived by us, have been in the neighbourhood, to favour us with a viſit. Having gratified our curioſity, though at the expence of our feelings, in con- templating theſe very wretched and humiliating efforts of human ingenuity, we returned on board, and having by the morning of Tueſday the 4th, repleniſhed our water, and taken on board a ſup- ply of firewood, Meſſrs. Puget and Whidbey went to Oyſter harbour, with three boats, for the pur- poſe of hauling the ſeine, and obtaining a quan- tity of thoſe ſhell fiſh, previouſly to our proceed- ing the follºwing morning to ſea. In this part of ! - * , \ OUIT 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD, . 147 our plan, however, we were diſappointed, as the wind which had blown a ſteady moderate breeze from the N. W. towards the evening blew a ſtrong gale from the S. E. with a heavy ſwell, and prevented the return of the boats; at the ſame time that the cloudineſs of the weather precluded me from making thoſe lunar obſerva- tions, for the ſole purpoſe of obtaining which I had remained on board. . . . . . . . The gale moderating the next morning, Wed- neſday the 5th, the boats returned, not having been very ſucceſsful with the ſeine, but bringing a ſufficient ſupply of oyſters not only for our convaleſcents, but for the affording alſo of two or three excellent meals for all hands. As the S. E. wind and a heavy ſea in the offing prevent- ed our departure, Mr. Broughton was employed in examining the eaſtern ſide of the ſound from Oyſter harbour to mount Gardner: this was found nearly a ſtraight and compact ſhore, on which Mr. Broughton landed in ſeveral places, where the ſame effects of fire were evident, al- though there were not any traces of the natives or of their habitations to be diſcovered. The like cauſes of detenſion ſtill operating, on Friday the 7th, a party was made for the further examination of Oyſter harbour, and by a little excurſion into the country on that ſide to acquire ſome information of its natural productions, and, K 2 -- if 148 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [oct. if poſſible alſo, of the natives. After examining the channel as we proceeded to the upper part of the harbour, our attention was direéted to ſeve- ral large black ſwans in very ſtately attitudes ſwimming on the water, and, when flying, diſ- covering the under parts of their wings and breaſt to be white: this is all the deſcription we were enabled to give of them, ſince they were exceſ- fively ſhy, and we were indifferent markſmen. In the northern corner of the harbour, we landed near a rivulet navigable only for canoes and ſmall boats. It meandered in a northern direction be- tween the hills, which, opening to the eaſt and weſt; preſented a ſpacious plain with foreſt trees occupying the banks of the rivulet, and the ſides of the hills, even to their very ſummits. We proceeded about a league by the ſide of the rivu- let, which flowed through ſo dead a flat, that its motion was ſcareely perceptible, and continued to be brackiſh, although in its paſſage it received ſeveral other ſmaller ſtreams of moſt excellent water. In it were an abundance of very fine fiſh, and on its banks were many black ſwans, ducks, curlews, and other wild fowl. On the ſides of this ſtream, as well as on the ſhores in Oyſter harbour, were ſeen the remains of ſeveral fiſh wears, about eight or nine inches high, evidently the ſorry contrivance of the wretched inhabitants of the country: ſome of theſe were conſtructed with 1791.] ROUND THE WOKLD. 149 with looſe ſtones, others with ſticks and ſtumps of wood; but none of them were likely to be of much utility at this ſeaſon, as ſeveral were placed nearly at, and others above, what now ſeemed the high water mark; but we ſuppoſed at times, when the rain or other cauſe ſhould extend the rivulet beyond its preſent bounds, which in width did not exceed thirty yards, and in depth four or five feet, theſe humble contrivances might arreſt ſome ſmall fiſh. Great bodies of water evidently paſs down this ſtream at certain ſeaſons, as ap- peared by the river's courſe occupying from two to three hundred yards on each ſide the rivulet, the ſoil of which was compoſed of ſea ſand and broken ſhells, and was deſtitute of any vegetable produćtion. This ſpace when overflowed muſt, from its winding courſe, form a moſt beautiful ſheet of water. The wears for the taking fiſh, and ſteps made in the bark for the purpoſe of aſcending ſome of the largeſt trees, though both exceſſively rude, were undoubtedly the effects of manual labour, and, with the huts, formed the only indications of the country being inhabited that we were able to diſcern. There were no paths in the woods, nor were any ſmokes to be ſeen over the extenſive country we beheld, which fully ſatisfied us that any further ſearch for the natives would be fruitleſs; and therefore we returned by a different route to the boats. In K 3 Our 15O A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [oct. our way we ſaw the remains of two ſimilar huts. Near theſe was an ant's neſt much of the ſame. ſhape and magnitude, though finiſhed in a very ſuperior ſtyle and manner, and ſhewing how very humble is the ſtate of human exiſtence, when unaffiſted by civil ſociety, and undirected by the ſciences. Having eaten our ſalt beef we pro- ceeded homewards, much mortified that the many wild fowl we had ſeen had eſcaped our vigilance; but that we might not return empty handed, we ſtopped at one of the oyſter banks, where, in about half an hour, we loaded our boat, and returned on board about nine o'clock in the evening. The bank on which we found them in greateſt plenty and the beſt flavoured, is that which extends from the north or low point of the entrancertowards the little verdant iſland. The wind blew a ſtrong gale from the E. S. E. and a very heavy ſea ran without the ſound ; but the veſſels within rode perfectly quiet. This ſort of weather, with much rain, continued...until Monday the 10th, when we entertained hopes of getting to ſea, as the wind veered to the ſouth ; but ſoon again reſuming its former direétion, at- tended by the heavy ſea in the offing, we remained at anchor until the next day, Tueſday the 11th ; which being more favorable to our purpoſe, though the wind was ſtill adverſe, we weighed, and turned out of the ſound. About four in the - - afternoon 1791.] Round THE world. 1 5 1 afternoon we regained the ocean; but the wind at E. N. E. prevented our ſteering along the coaſt, and obliged us to ſtand to the ſouth-eaſtward. Whilſt we were getting under weigh, I cauſed to be depoſited at the hut near the watering place ſome beads, knives, looking-glaſſes, and other trinkets, as a compenſation to its ſolitary owner, ſhould he ever return, for the wood we had cut down, and deprived him of: and to commemo- rate our viſit, near the ſtump of one of the trees we had felled, in a pile of ſtones raiſed for the purpoſe of attracting the attention of any Euro- pean, was left a bottle ſealed up, containing a parchment on which were inſcribed the names of the veſſels, and of the commanders; with the name given to the ſound, and the date of our ar- rival and departure. Another bottle, containing a ſimilar memorandum, was likewiſe depoſited on the top of Seal Iſland, with a ſtaff erected to condućt any viſitor to it, on which was affixed a medal of the year 1780. Thoſe who may meet with the ſtaff will moſt probably diſcover the bottle hidden near it. This precaution was here taken, on a preſumption that Seal Iſland was en- tirely out of the reach of the inhabitants, which might not be the caſe where the firſt bottle was ſecreted. - ~ * At ſun-ſet the Eclipſe Iſlands by compaſs bore N. 74 W. Bald-head N. 45 W. Mount Gardner , K 4 N. 13 152 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [oct. N. 13 E. the hummock mentioned on the 28th, now evidently an iſland, from N. 56E. to N. 51 E. and the eaſternmoſt part of the main land in ſight N. 42 E. whence the coaſt appeared to take a ſharp turn to the northward. As we ſtood to the S. E. the wind gradually veered to the north, which, by day light of Tueſday the 18th, led us out of fight of the coaſt; but as in the forenoon it was calm and the atmoſphere very clear, Mount Gardner was ſeen bearing N.W. 18 leagues diſ- tant. In this ſituation we had much ſwell from the eaſtward; and ſoundings could not be gained at the depth of 200 fathoms. The obſerved la- titude was 35° 37', longitude 119° 24′, which was 2' to the ſouth, and 16' to the eaſt, of what the log ſhewed. The wind was light and vari- able until the evening, when it ſettled in a ſteady breeze at S. W.; the ſwell from the eaſt, and E. S. E. ſtill continuing, indicated the land in that direction to be at ſome diſtance. Our unexpected detention by the late eaſtwardly winds, and the advanced ſeaſon, conſpired greatly againſt proſe- cuting reſearches on this coaſt; I determined, however, not to abandon that favorite objećt, pro- vided the taſk ſhould not prove too dangerous, and intricate; or that the direction of the coaſt ſhould not lead us too far out of our way; as, in reſpect of the former, I ačted without any autho- rity in the inveſtigation; and, in reſpect of the latter, N. 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 15.3 latter, our time would not now admit of ſuffi- cient leiſure to perſevere in the purſuit. Under theſe confiderations our courſe was direéted to the N. E. during the night, in hopes of paſſing within fight of the land lying to the eaſtward of Mount Gardner, ſo as to connect our ſurvey. Not gaining bottom with 110 to 140 fathoms of line; and there being at day-break of Thurſday the 20th no appearance of the coaſt, we ſteered north, which ſoon brought us within ſight of land to the N. W. making like three iſlands; but on a nearer approach, the two weſternmoſt were evidently connected by a low iſthmus to the main land: but the connecting of the northernmoſt being uncertain, it obtained the name of Dou BTFUL IsLAND. - From the weſternmoſt land ſeen this morning, to the eaſternmoſt land ſeen on Tueſday evening, is a ſpace of 14 leagues, ſtretching S. 58 W. and N. 58 E. in which no land was ſeen. The depth of water was at this time 30 fathoms; the bot- tom coarſe ſand, with broken ſhells and coral. The weather was delightfully pleaſant; and, with a gentle gale at S.W. we ſteered along the coaſt, which now took a dire&tion N. 55 E. our diſtance from the ſhore from two to four leagues. Doubt- ful Iſland, and the ſhores to the S. W. of it, nearly reſembled the reſt of the coaſt; but to the N. E. the coaſt preſented a very different proſpect be- ing 1 54 A VOYAGE so F D IS COW ERY ſocr. ing compoſed of high detached cluſters of craggy mountains, on a baſe of low and to all appear- ance level land, well wooded, particularly to the N. W. of Doubtful Iſland, where the land falls back to a conſiderable diſtance, forming either a deep well-ſheltered bay, or a low flat country. At noon, a high bluff point, extending from the northernmoſt cluſter of mountains, the eaſtern- moſt land then in fight, bore by compaſs N. 24 E. the moſt weſtern and conſpicuous cluſter of ap- parently diſunited mountains N. 67 W. about nine leagues diſtant; and the eaſt point of Doubt- ful Iſland, the weſternmoſt land at that time wi- fible, S. 73 W. This land forms a remarkable point on the coaſt, and is in latitude 34° 23', lon- gitude 110° 40'; which, after Admiral Lord Hood, I diſtinguiſhed by the name of Po INT Hoop. In this ſituation, our obſerved latitude was 34° 18', longitude 120° 14'; being 13' more to the north, and Ö' more to the eaſt, than ap- peared by the log. Soon after mid-day, low land was deſcried, ſtretching out from the high bluff point, which we found ſituated not immediately on the ſhore, but ſome diſtance inland, whence a very low country extends to the ſea coaſt, which takes a direction S. 70 E. breakers in two de- tached places were diſcovered at this time lying at ſome diſtance from the land; the neareſt of theſe about one o'clock, bore by compaſs N. E. - four 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. I 55 four miles diſtant; the other, viſible only from the maſt-head, appeared to lie from the former E. by N. two leagues diſtant. At this time the depth of water was 35 fathorns; and as the wind blew direétly on the ſhore, and the main land, though not more than four leagues off, was not ſufficiently high to be diſtinctly ſeen from the deck; we hauled our tacks on board, and ſtood to the S. E. increaſing our diſtance very ſlowly. At ſix in the evening, the neareſt land was a rocky iſland, about two miles in circuit, which bore by compaſs N. 13 E. eight miles diſtant; and from the maſt-head, the flat low coaſt was viſible as far as E. N. E.; at nine the depth of water had gradually increaſed to forty fathoms. Conſidering our preſent as the moſt prudent tack to remain upon until we ſhould meet ſhoals, or other impediments, I directed the Chatham to lead and ſound; our depth gradually increaſed to 54 fathoms, and the coaſt in the morning of Friday the 21ſt was in ſight from N. E. to eaſt. The wind blew a light breeze from the S. S. E. with which we ſteered for the land until about nine, when we tacked in 60 fathoms. The land in fight, at that time, from the maſt-head bore by compaſs from N. N. W. to E. by N. each ex- tremity five or ſix leagues diſtant; all this was ſuppoſed to be the main, though between north and E. N. E. the land appeared ſomewhat bro- ken, 156 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [ocr. ken, occaſioned perhaps by ſome of its parts be- ing elevated a little above the reſt of the ſhore, off which breakers were ſeen to lie at ſome diſ- tance; and the land, which in the morning bore eaſt, and now bore by compaſs N. 87 E. eight miles diſtant, was evidently a rocky iſland about a league in circuit, much reſembling that which we paſſed the preceding evening. It proved the termination of our reſearches on this coaſt, and thence obtained the name of TERMINATIon Is LAND ; on it the ſea broke with much vio- lence, and between it and the main was a ſmall low iſlet. The great depth of water indicated that the bank of ſoundings which we had hi- therto found extending along the coaſt, termi- nated alſo on its approach to this iſland, as we had no where found ſo great a depth of water at this ſmall diſtance from the ſhore; which, on be- ing increaſed a few miles only, put the ſhip in- tirely out of ſoundings. At noon, the obſerved latitude was 34° 34', longitude 121° 52'; twenty- two miles further eaſt, and four further north than ſhewn by the log. In this ſituation the main land from the maſt-head was ſeen bearing by compaſs N. N. W. to E. N. E. & E.; and Ter- mination iſland, ſituated in latitude 34° 32', lon- gitude 122, 84'; N. 84 E. Between the eaſtern- moſt part of the main, ſeen the preceding even- ing, and the weſternmoſt ſeen this morning, is a ſpace 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 157 ſpace of ten leagues, which we paſſed in the night without obſerving land; yet, from the regularity of the ſoundings, there can be little doubt of its being one continued coaſt, and that the courſe by us made good S. 70 E. is nearly parallel to its di- rećtion. The whole of this low country preſented a dreary aſpect, deſtitute of wood, or herbage, and interſperſed with white and brown patches, occaſioned, moſt probably, by the different co- lours of ſand or rock, of which it is compoſed. We here Roticed more coaſt and oceanic birds, than we had ſeen on any other part of the ſhores: as, beſides gannets, and two or three different ſorts of tern ; albatroſſes, and petrels, particu- larly the black and ſooty, were in great abun- dance. The weather continued very fine, with a light variable breeze in the eaſtern quarter, which drew us, not only out of ſight, and ſome diſtance from the coaſt, but prevented our mak- ing much progreſs in the direction, in which it ſeemed to bend, until Sunday the 23d, when the wind, ſettling in the weſtern board, we ſteered to the E. N. E. in hopes of falling in with the land; and in the event of its taking a more nor- therly direction, the Chatham was ordered to look out three leagues on the larboard beam. At noon, the obſerved latitude 35° 30', the longitude 122° 40'. At this time, the wind ſuddenly Íhifted to the ſouthward, and was accompanied b y I 58 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [ocr. by a very heavy ſwell in that direétion, which ſtrongly indicating the approach of boiſterous weather, the Chatham's ſignal was made to join, and our courſe was dire&ted E. S. E.; not dar- ing under all the circumſtances of our ſituation, to run the riſk of encountering bad weather on an unexplored coaſt, that preſented to us ſo many dangers. Beſides, as the lowneſs of the ſhores which we had lately ſeen, and the diſtant ſhoals that we had found extending from them, would exact particular caution as we proceeded, more time would neceſſarily be required in the proſe- cution of fuch an inquiry, than the main object of our voyage would at preſent allow. I was therefore compelled to relinquiſh, with great re- lućtance, the favorite projećt of further examin- ing the coaſt of this unknown though intereſting country; and, directing our route over an hitherto untraverſed part of theſe ſeas, we proceeded with- out further delay towards the Pacific Ocean. CHAPTER 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. " . . 1.59 CHAPTER III. Remarks on the Country and Produćions on Part of the South-weſt Coaſt of New Holland–Extra- ordinary Devaſiation by Fire—Aftronomical and nautical Obſervations. LTHOUGH the conſiderations adverted to in the foregoing chapter, rendered it im- practicable to explore the S.W. coaſt of New Holland to the extent my wiſhes firſt led me to imagine, and prevented our aſcertaining its boun- dary and connection with, or ſeparation from, Van Dieman's land; yet the information we have acquired, will open a field to thoſe whoſe duty it may hereafter be to perform that taſk; by ſhewing, that its S. W. part may be approached with the greateſt ſafety, as its ſhores are bold with regular ſoundings to the diſtance of eight or nine leagues, and by the diſcovery of the very excellent harbour in King George the Third's found. Confidering therefore its ſituation and conveniences as likely to become of material im- portance to thoſe whoſe purſuits may induce them to navigate this and the Pacific Ocean, it may not be unintereſting to detail, in a more particular 160 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [oct. particular manner, the circumſtances that occur- red during our viſit to a country hitherto ſo little known to Europeans. - Our ſurvey comprehended an extent of 110 leagues, in which ſpace we ſaw no other haven or place of ſecurity for ſhipping than the ſound before mentioned; notwithſtanding the opinion of Dampier, who has conſidered the whole of the weſtern part of New Holland as conſiſting of a cluſter of iſlands. He was undoubtedly a judi- cious obſerver, of very ſuperior talents; and, it is moſt likely, formed his opinion from the many iſlands which he found compoſing the exterior coaſt of the N.W. part of this extenſive country. However juſt may be his concluſions as to that part of New Holland, they certainly do not ap- ply to its ſouth weſtern ſide, as no very material ſeparation, either by rivers, or arms of the ſea, was diſcovered in the neighbourhood of our ſur- vey. Had ſuch breaks in the coaſt exiſted, and had they eſcaped our obſervation, it is highly probable we ſhould have met in the ſea, or ſeen driven on its ſhores, drift wood and other pro- ductions of the interior country. The very deep colour alſo of the ſeveral ſtreams of water may poſſibly be occaſioned by the quality of the ſoil through which they flow; whence it may be in- ferred that, if any conſiderable inland waters had their ſource far in the country, or if any great body As o !. cº o Ahz" ing" 119° iboº { 12." § 122° T. * E--I-T-I-H-I-T-T—T-I anº T-I-I-T-I-I-I-I-I-I 7. T-I-T-I-I-I-I-I-I-I HI-T-I-T-I-HL–T-T— 2. T-I-T-I-t-T-T-I-T-I I tººl t T T-I-T-T I – TI-T-T-I-T-I-T-I-T-TTI 34: - 3.1" }- - - - - - - - iº - .4 C I/4 R Z sheria/Parº of 2/c §§ ` ºr 4 y Tº NY HAYA Ay HTH d is iſ H A Nºr d > wº- | S.W. C. C.) 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H----|--|EFEEEFIFEEI-IETTE-ITEETI L–1–1–1–1–H– *] -- i...— — Gºt * *:: 4--. ** ~e - ^ “ . . - Al Q 116 ||17"East Longitude from Greenwich in: Q lºg º----- ------ -- - I I -- ----------------- - *** *** * *-* *--~~~~~. ... º.-- - - - -r 140 I 139." Q kº Ç Fº Cocºa Wet ſº ** & | * ºropºrºs's --- (º JSA.R.S 8” 8° - - - * - •. & - x: S. }*. iſ E. R. G. E. ST's, iſ $ LANT) S * y $. º dºrcovered ºr the Daedalus Store .5/ºp s ºr e º ºs º Y'iro 3 ºccº § --- - - S. nº - º Lieu'. Hergest Commander º .0t” \ \ H and surveyed by Mº Gooch Astronomer - 30+ #3 & 24,---º- || 23 as A s T. & ---Tºsſºpe Jowza' - - ---------- / " - *. hº gº sº ~ P*.ſ/anni. + 2 * Ço - # = : 'º-J “...ſanninae Tº Horgests Rock; º:* — —-at--—t º:--—- ++. 2 2 & \ |- º- - ... . . º, * : : Kºš §º “. § *. $4. Sº HEAVRYAMA ***ś \ Jºzzle of ºxy i * * . . . . . . .A.A. ºf - . º.º. i. . … * *- : * ~ * - st: ~ : | jº sº & I.S.I. . f—#—4–– º * .* of caſe wºlfhºw. . - i _2^ : sº jºric rud is - . . . Jºozctſ ſº. Bd3 : 14. Anº -wº - 9” • 23. .S.'Aſ E. Z'C Aſ of - * po Cot - 7” AI F. kis * * * * * * * - -º-º- ſy v -* * & CZZA 7//A.M. W.S./AAWD —H-3–? THE S N A R. F. S * ...4.” A M TO .4 L *. hº feaſe of 2 carver 'th the 7 rack /he Chat] b t/te J.S L4 WJ) qf O PLA R () *W*ys rºm rºw a r-y:**r- ºv ^ W - rſ ºr o “ , ” ” (“ & with the 77'ack of the Chatham between them. t 7 RAE WEA/FAWS f. A vſ. . . .3.18'ſ. ºr w f - Maſſ º 27° 36' 3". Pº - Cape Young -º/en/.433. 2 /. Alar * 48°.3 J’. • * > . | Friendº' | V2. -- y ºfe- , , , as, -, - . Away" 215°..tº E. : - k= War. 14. O AE'. Long "106.20 E. º gº e - r * | - Hay. " .5°. .to ‘A’. | asº lºw. * Jó ". 49 'A. * * | | | G I I I Jº + º I I T H-39 * i 14|O Fºrd Zongitude wron Greenwich 139." -- mºn *----------- - --- - ------ ..º.º. Zondon, Zzz//Kyºf 4&t z:2223. Aºyazô/.../cd.ºecond Zafizio”, 33% ºyſºz.412. Z.º.º.º.de, Złºczºv. 1791.] Round. THE won L.D. 161 body deſcended from its ſhores, the ſea along the coaſt would in ſome meaſure have been diſco- loured ; but neither of theſe evidences cziſted, for on our approach to the land, there was no pre- vious appearance to indicate its vicinity. This opinion was further corroborated on inſpecting the habitations and places of the natives' reſort ; where not the leaſt remains of canoes, or, other circumſtance preſented itſelf, which could con- vey the moſt diſtant idea of theſe people having ever truſted themſelves on the water; a circum- {tance which it is reaſonable to ſuppoſe would fometimes have happened, had their country been inſulated, or their travelling been interrupted by large rivers or arms of the ſea; eſpecially as all appearances favored the conjećture of their being by no means a ſtationary people. There was great reaſon, however, to conclude, that the country was well ſupplied with freſh water; as wherever we chanced to land, we cafil y procured that valuable article, not only where the ſoil was of conſiderable depth, but from ſtreamlets iſſuing out of the ſolid rocks. This ſeemed to be the caſe even on the moſt elevated land, which cauſed a very ſingular appearance when the ſun ſhone in certain direétions on thoſe mountains whoſe furfaces were deſtitute of ſoil; for on theſe, made humid by the continual oozing of the Water, a VoI. I. L bright i 62 A Voy AGE OF DIscovery [oct. bright glare was produced that gave them the reſemblance of hills covered with ſnow. Our reſearches afforded little matter worthy of notice excepting ſuch as appertained to King George the Third's Sound. This port has its entrance in latitude 35° 5', longitude 1189 17'. It is eaſily known on approaching it from the weſtward, as it is the firſt opening in the coaſt that preſents any appearance like an harbour, eaſtward of cape Chatham. The Eclipſe Iſlands being the only detached land that can be ſo re- garded, are an excellent guide to the ſound, hav- ing, between them and Bald-head, ſome rocks on which the ſea breaks with great violence. The port is ſafe, and eaſy of acceſs any where between its outer points of entrance, Bald-head, and Mount Gardner, lying N. 62 E. and S. 62 W. 11 miles diſtant from each other. Mount Gardner is not leſs conſpicuous and uſeful in pointing out the found from the eaſtern quarter, than in its being rendered very remarkable by its handſome ſhape, and its rocky, and almoſt uninterrupted poliſhed ſurface to its ſummit. Its baſe may be ſaid ra- ther to form the eaſtern extent of the coaſt, than the oppoſite point of the ſound, there being within it a projećtion which more properly forms the N. E. point of the ſound, lying from Bald- head N. 30 E. about five miles diſtant. Between * theſe 1791.] Round The world, 163 theſe latter points are Michaelmas, and Break Sea iſlands, each about a league in circuit, one mile apart, nearly equidiſtant between the two points, and affording to all appearance good channels on every ſide. The water ſuddenly de- creaſes in its depth from 30 to 12 fathoms; the latter depth uniformly continuing acroſs from point to point, I ſhould conceive, muſt be an additional means of preventing any very heavy ſea from rolling into the ſound; which, in the moſt expoſed place of anchorage convenient to the ſhore, is only open from E. by N. to S. E. by E. Between theſe limits are ſituated the two iſlands above-mentioned, whence the ſound ex- tends W. by N. about two leagues to point Poſ- ſeſſion, and from our anchorage to Oyſter har- bour, north about the ſame diſtance, with regu- lar foundings in mid-channel of 12 to 15, and 10 to 6 fathoms cloſe to the ſhore, excepting near Seal iſland, where there is a hole of 21 fathoms. The Diſcovery and Chatham were moored in a ſituation, not only very convenient as to communication with the ſhore, but I be- lieve, in perfect ſecurity as it reſpected the ele- ment: for although the ſea broke ſometimes with ſuch violence on Break Sea iſland, that the ſurf ranged to its elevated ſummit, during a conti- nuance of the boiſterous weather; yet it did not occaſion us the leaſt inconvenience. A more - L 2 eligible 164 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Doct. eligible ſituation if required in the ſound might very probably be met with above the flat rock, as veſſels would be there more completely land- locked ; and a convenient ſandy cove, eaſily to be diſcovered in that neighbourhood, is furniſhed with a ſtream of cxcellent freſh water, which though to all appearance not better in quality than the water we received on board, was yet more pleaſing to the cye, not being of ſo deep a colour. Princeſs Royal harbour admits of a paſſage into it about a quarter of a mile wide; neareſt to the northern ſhore the depth is five or ſix fa- thoms, but on the ſouthern, not more than 24 and three fathoms water; occaſioned by banks of coral rock which are very conſpicuous, and, not being liable to any of the violent agitations of the ſea, are by no means dangerous. Within the points of entrance, the depth is regularly from four to ſeven fathoms, and the bottom clear, good holding ground. This depth, though occupying part only of the harbour, yet affords a ſufficient ſpace for ſeveral veſſels to ride in ſafety. Oyſter harbour is rendered admiſſible alone for veſſels of a middle ſize, by the ſhallowneſs of the water on the bar, extending from ſhore to ſhore, on which we found 17 feet water only, although the depth increaſed from five to ſeven fathorns on each ſide. The deep water within the 1791.] - ROUND THE WORLD. 165 the harbour did dot ſeem of any great cxtent. In both theſe harbours the communication with the country is rendered unpleaſant by the ſhallow depth of water in moſt places extending to a great diſtance from the ſhore. This inconve- niency could eaſily be remedied, ſhould it ever be an objećt ſo to do, by wharfs; although it is not unlikely that on a more minute inſpection the neceſſity for ſuch a meaſure would ceaſe to appear. In navigating the ſound, we did not obſerve any danger that was not ſufficiently conſpicuous to be avoided; circumſtances however did not admit of our acquiring that ſatisfactory informa- tion reſpecting Princeſs Royal and Oyſter har- bours which fall into it, that could have been wiſhed ; yet ſo far as relatcs to the ſound, the annexcd ſketch will I believe be found to contain no very material error. The appearance of this country along the coaſts, reſembles, in moſt reſpects, that of Africa about the Cape of Good Hope. The ſurface ſeemed to be chiefly compoſed of ſand mixed with decayed vegetables, varying exceedingly in point of richneſs; and although bearing a great finilarity, yet indicating a ſoil ſuperior in quality to that in the immediate neighbourhood of Cape Town. The principal component part of this country appeared to be coral; and it would ſeem L 3 that 166 A vox AGE of Discovery [oct. that its elevation above the ocean is of modern date, not only from the ſhores, and the bank which extends along the coaſt being, generally ſpeaking, compoſed of coral, as was evident by our lead never deſcending to the bottom without bringing up coral on its return ; but by coral being found on the higheſt hills we aſcended; particularly on the ſummit of Bald-Head, which is ſufficiently above the level of the ſea to be ſeen at 12 or 14 leagues diſtance. *. Here the coral was entirely in its original ſtate ; particularly in one level ſpot, comprehending about eight acres, which produced not the leaſt herbage on the white ſand that occupied this ſpace; through which the branches of coral protruded, and were found ſtanding exactly like thoſe ſeen in the beds of coral beneath the ſurface of the ſea, with ra- mifications of different ſizes, ſome not half an inch, others four or five inches in circumference. In theſe fields of coral (if the term field be al- lowable) of which there were ſeveral, ſea ſhells were in great abundance, ſome nearly in a per- feet ſtate ſtill adhering to the coral, others in different ſtages of decay. The coral was friable in various .. degrees ; the extremities of the branches, ſome of which were nearly four feet above the ſand, were eaſily reduced to powder, whilſt thoſe cloſe to, or under the ſurface, re- quired ſome ſmall force to break them from the rocky 1791.] ROUND THE WO R L D. 167 rocky ſoundation from whence they appeared to ſpring. I have ſeen coral in many places at a conſiderable diſtance from the ſea ; but in no other inſtance have I ſeen it ſo elevated, and in ſuch a ſtate of perfection. In the lower lands we frequently met with ex- tenſive tracts occupied by a kind of okeriſh ſwampy peat, or mooriſh ſoil of a very dark brown colour, forming as it were a cruſt, which ſhook and trembled when walked upon ; with water oozing through, or running over the fur- face, in all direétions. Through this ſoil moſt of the ſtreams take their courſe, and it is to their impregnation in the paſſage, that the general high colour of the water is to be attributed. Theſe fwamps were not always confinca to low and level ſpots, but were found on the acclivity of the higher lands; and where theſe did not oc- cupy the ſides of the hills, the ſoil was deep, and appeared infinitely more produćtive than the ſur- face of the plains; eſpecially that through which the rivulet in Oyſter harbour has been mention- ed to flow. In that plain we found, at irregular intervals, juſt beneath the ſurface, a ſubſtratum of an apparently imperfeót chalk, or a rich white marle, ſeemingly formed of the ſame decayed ſhells, with which the courſe of the river abound- ed. Theſe ſtrata, about eight or ten yards broad, run perpendicularly to the rivulet; their depth - L 4 We 168 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY * * [oct. we had not leiſure to examine, although there feemed little doubt of finding this ſubſtance in ſufficient abundance for the purpoſes of manure, ſhould the cultivation of this country ever be in contemplation. The general ſtructure of it ſeems very favorable to ſuch an attempt, as the moun- tains are neither ſteep nor numerous; nor do the riſing grounds form ſuch hills as bid defiance to the plough; while they produce that ſort of di- verſity which is grateful to the eye, and not un- pleaſant to the traveller. º This chalky earth was alſo found in the neigh- bourhood of a mooriſh ſoil; and, on a more mi- nute examination, ſeemed much to reſemble an earth deſcribed in Cronſtadt's Mineralogy at the bottom of his note (y) page 21. It did not fhew any ſigns of efferveſcence with acids, nor did it burn into lime; but, like the earth alluded to, contains a number of ſmall tranſparent cryſ- tals. Theſe were viſible without a microſcope; and as, on applying the blow pipe, vitrification took place, it might probably be uſefully appro- priated in making a ſort of porcelain. The ſtones we found were chiefly of coral, with a few black and brown pebbles, ſlate, quartz, two or three ſorts of granite, with ſome ſand ſtones, but none ſeeming to poſſeſs any metallic quality. The climate, if a judgment may be formed by ſo 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 169 ſo ſhort a viſit, ſeemed delightful: for though we contended with ſome boiſterous weather on our approach to the coaſt, nothing leſs ought reaſonably to have been expected at the ſeaſon of the vernal equinox, and breaking up of the win- ter. The gales we experienced in King George the Third's Sound, were not of ſuch violence as to put veſſels at ſea paſt their top-ſails; although whilſt the S. W. wind continued a moſt violent ſea broke with incredible fury on the exterior ſhores. This however can caſily be imagined, when the extenſive uninterrupted range which the wind in that direction has over the Indian ocean is taken into conſideration : during the continuance of this wind the atmoſphere was to- lerably clear, though the air was keen. Faren- heit's thermometer, at the time of year anſwer- ing to the beginning of April in the northern hemiſphere, ſtood at 53°; but at all other times during our ſtay, varied between 58° and 64°, and the barometer from 20° go to 30" 50. Slight colds were caught by the crew, which ought rather to be imputed to their own want of care than to the climate, as on getting to ſea the par- ties ſoon recovered. Our convaleſcents in the flux received much benefit, though their health could not yet be confidered as thoroughly re-eſta- bliſhed. Theſe circumſtances induced an opi- hion, that the climate and ſoil bade fair to be ca- pable 170 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [oct. pable of producing all the eſſentials, and many of the luxuries of life; although on the ſubjećt of agricultural improvement, I felt myſelf as unqua- lified to determine, as to enumerate ſcientifically the ſeveral trees, ſhrubs, and plants with which the country abounds. Of the two latter there appeared a great variety, and I believe afforded to Mr. Menzies much entertainment and em- ployment. Amongſt the moſt remarkable was the gum plant, found every where in great abun- dance, and anſwering, in all its charaćters, to the deſcription and repreſentation of that plant found at port Jackſon, as mentioned in Philips's voyage. Wild celery was found in quantities ſufficient for our pea-ſoup, and daily to ſupply the people by way of ſauce to their ſalted meat: this with ſam- phire were the only eatable vegetables we pro- cured. Other plants were numerous, and af- forded a great variety of beautiful flowers. The ſhrubs alſo were abundant, and of many ſpecies; but neither theſe nor the trees grew ſo cloſely together as materially to incommode travelling, even in the neighbourhood of Oyſter harbour, where the country is very well wooded; and as the branches of the trees do not approach within ~ ſeveral feet of the ground, an extenſive view is admitted in every direction. The foreſt trees ſeemed of four different ſorts. The moſt com- mon much reſembled the holly, but theſe were - not 1791.] Round THE won LD. 171 not of the larger ſort; that which I took to be the gum tree of New South Wales, by its foliage and its producing a conſiderable quantity of gum, ſeemed to be a hard, ponderous, cloſe-grained wood: of this deſcription the larger trees ſeemed chiefly to conſiſt; one of theſe meaſured nine feet four inches in girth, and was of a propor- tionable height. Thoſe from which our fuel was procured were of the myrtle tribe, not unlike the pimento of the Weſt Indies, in ſhape, appear- ance, and aromatic flavor of the foliage; and in the hard and cloſe texture of the wood, which makes an excellent and pleaſant fire, burning cheerfully yet conſuming ſlow ; whilſt, from the ſmoke, a very ſpicy agreeable fragrance is exhal- £d. Theſe do not, in general, grow to large timbers; but there is another ſpecies much re- ſembling them, with rather broader leaves, and poſſeſſing like them an aromatic flavor, which grow to a conſiderable ſize. Theſe, with a ſpe- cies not unlike the filver tree of the Cape of Good Hope, were the trees that were found ge- nerally to compoſe the foreſt. For the benefit of thoſe who may viſit the country hereafter, ſome vine-cuttings and water- creſſes were planted on the iſland in Oyſter har- bour, and at the place from whence we procured our fuel; and an affortment of garden ſeeds, with ſome almonds, orange, lemon and pumkin ſeeds Were 172 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [oct. were ſown. The whole being the produce of Africa, I ſhould have entertained little doubt of their ſucceſs, had it not been, that there was much to apprehend in their being over-run by the natural produćtions of the country. Of the animal kingdom, ſo far as relates to the tenants of the earth, little information was de- rived. The only quadruped ſeen was one dead kangaroo; the dung, however, of theſe or ſome other animals feeding on vegetables, was almoſt every where met with, and frequently ſo freſh as to indicate that the animal could not be far removed. Of the birds that live in or reſort to the woods, the vulture may be ſaid to be the moſt common, as we ſaw ſeveral of this ſpecies, or at leaſt, birds that were ſo conſidered. Hawks of the falcon tribe, with ſeveral others of that genus; a bird much reſembling the Engliſh crow, parrots, par- roquets, and a variety of ſmall birds, ſome of which ſung very melodiouſly, were thoſe which attracted our attention the moſt ; but all were ſo exceſſively wild and watchful, that few ſpeci- mens could be procured. Of the water fowl, the black ſwan ſeemed as numerous as any other ſpecies of aquatic birds in the neighbourhood of Oyſter harbour, but they were ſeen in no other place. There was alſo black and white pelicans of a large ſort, ſeen at a diſtance; and though ducks \ - - - * *: $. º 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 173 ducks were in great numbers, we werc very un- ſucceſsful in taking them. A very peculiar one was ſhot, of a darkiſh grey plumage, with a bag like that of a lizard hanging under its throat; which ſmelt ſo intolerably of muſk that it ſcented nearly the whole ſhip. There was alſo many gray curlews, and ſea-pics; of the latter we pro- cured a few, which were excellent eating. The aquatic birds before enumerated, with ſhags, the common gull, two or three ſorts of tern, and a few ſmall penguins of a blueiſh colour, included the whole of the feathered tribe in the vicinity of the ſhores. With the productions of the ſea, we were not much more acquainted ; which is rather to be attributed to our want of ſkill as fiſhermen than to its want of bounty. Some of the few fiſh we caught were very exceilent, particularly of the larger ſort; one much reſembling the ſnook, and another the calipevar of Jamaica, both of high flavor ; as was a kind of fiſh not unlike, nor in- ferior in quality to, the Engliſh red mullet. Theſe, with the common white mullet, rock fiſh, mack- erel, herrings, and a variety of ſmall fiſh, were thoſe we procured, though not in any abundance. Whilſt on the coaſt, whales and ſeals were frequently playing about the ſhip; of the latter, we ſaw about a ſcore at one time on Seal iſland. The little trouble theſe animals took to avoid us, indicated 174 A voyage of Discovery focr: indicated their not being accuſtomed to ſuch vi- ſitors. The throat and belly of theſe ſeals, which were of a large ſort, were nearly white; between the head and ſhoulders, the neck riſes in a kind of creſt, which, with the back, was of a light brown colour; their hair was exceedingly coarſe; the carcaſe very poor, and afforded little blubber > which, however, may be imputable to the ſea- ſon. 4 Reptiles and noxious animals ſeemed by no means to be numerous, as only two or three yellow, and bronze-coloured ſnakes were ſeen, which were good eating; theſe, with a few li- zards of the common ſort, and ſome about eight or nine inehes long of a thick clumſy make, dark colour, and altogether exceſſively ugly, were what compoſed that race of animals. Some beautiful beetles, common flies, and muſkitoes, were oc- caſionally met with, but not in ſuch numbers as to produce inconvenience. It would now remain to ſay ſomething of the human ſpecies, the inhabitants of this country; but as we were not ſo fortunate to procure an interview with any one of them, all that can be advanced on this ſubject muſt be founded on conjećture or nearly ſo, and conſequently very liable to error; it may, however, not be unac- ceptable to ſtate ſuch circumſtances as, on the ſpot, occurred to our obſervation. The ſ. |× .//www.areer º: - º), NEW HIOI, LAND . º ...Sºoº. Z// (Zozº G. * A 7A (; z/ | | | | º on the ºnadº. RTED INDIAN VILL AGE º ***** ºw. - - º Jºez. - - S] de/ A D F /rom a - ſº Alawal. |× 1701.] ROUND THE WORLD , 175 The natives appeared to be a wandering people; who ſometimes made their excurſions individu- ally, at other times in conſiderable parties; this was apparent by their habitations being found ſingle and alone, as well as compoſing tolerably large villages. * Beſides the village I viſited, Mr. Broughton diſcovered another about two miles diſtant from it, of nearly the ſame magnitude; but it appeared to be of a much later date, as all the huts had been recently built, and ſeemed to have been very lately inhabited. It was ſituated in a ſwamp, which might probably have been preferred to a higher and firmer land for the convenience of water. One or two huts of a larger ſize were here alſo obſerved ; the reſt were preciſely of the ſame deſcription with thoſe in our neighbour- hood. The larger trees in the vicinity of both villages had been hollowed out by fire, ſuffi- ciently to afford the ſhelter theſe people ſeemed to require. Upon ſtones placed in the infide of theſe hollow trees fires had been made, which proved that they had been uſed as habitations, either for the inferior of the party, which would argue a further degree of ſubordination amongſt them, or for thoſe who were too indolent to build themſelves the wattled huts before deſcribed. No one ſpecies of furniture or utenſil was diſ. covered in any of the houſes; the only imple- II) entS 176 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [oct. ments ſeen, were pieces of ſticks intended as fpears, rudely wrought, and the operation of manual labour upon them but ſlightly diſcernible. The bark was ſtripped off, and the thickeſt end, after having been burnt in the fire, was ſcraped and reduced to a blunted point, on one of which ſome blood was found ſtill adhering. Deſtitute (as they ſeemed) of the means, and totally ignorant of every mode of embarkation, it is not likely that they place much dependence on marine produćtions for their ſubſiſtence; yet it was evident from the wears on the ſhores, and from the mouths of the brooks near the villages being ſtopped up, that they ſometimes reſort to the rivulets and to the ſea for proviſions. On this account, it was conſidered rather extraor- dinary, that the bones of the fiſhes on which they had fed were no where to be found; and this led to a ſuppoſition that thoſe which their endeavours enabled them to procure, were very ſmall. It appeared ſtill more extraordinary that, ſince they drew a certain proportion of their food from the ſea, they ſhould not have diſcovered ſo excellent a part of its produce as oyſters and clams; notwithſtanding that the latter ſhow ta themſelves on the beaches over which they muſt frequently walk; and that the former at low water require only wading half-leg deep on the ſhoals that extend from the main land to gather in 1791.] * ROUND THE WORLD. 177 in a few minutes a day's ſubſiſtence. Neither did it appear that they had any knowledge of theſe, the limpets, nor any other ſhell fiſh found amongſt the rocks; or if they had, for ſome rea- ſon not eaſily to be imagined, they certainly made no uſe of them; otherwiſe their ſhells in all hu- man probability would have been ſeen near the places of their reſort. Hence it may naturally be inferred, that the land principally ſupplies their wants, or hunger would long ſince have condućted them to ſuch excellent reſources. This opinion is ſupported by the extreme ſhyneſs of the feathered creation, and the wildneſs of the quadrupeds, whoſe footing, and the other ſigns of their being at no great diſtance without our obtaining any fight of them, ſufficiently proved that they were conſtantly purſued. This circum- ſtance may furniſh a probable conjećture on the cauſe of the very extraordinary devaſtation by fire, which the vegetable productions had ſuffered throughout the whole country we had traverſed. Fire is frequently reſorted to by rude nations, either for the purpoſe of encouraging a ſweeter growth of herbage in their hunting grounds, or § as toils for taking the wild animals, of which, they are in purſuit. When the foreſt is ſet on fire for ſuch purpoſes in a dry ſeaſon, its ravages may become very extenſive; and the inflam- mable quality of the gum plant, which is here in VoI., I. M great 178 A VOYAGE OF DFSCOVERY [oct. great abundance, may operate to promote that general havock which we obſerved in the vege- table kingdom. The deſtrućtive operations of fire were, how- ever, evident in places where the gum-plant was not found for a conſiderable diſtance; and, po- fitively ſpeaking, in our excurſion on ſhore, we did not fee a ſpot that produced any vegetables, which had not viſibly felt its effects. Where the country was well wooded, the loftieſt timbers had the topmoſt of their branches burned; yet none ſeemed totally deſtroyed by it; and where the luxuriance of the ſoil had obliterated its bane- ful appearance amongſt the growing ſhrubs and plants, the ground, on examination, was found ftrewed over with the remains of branches and ſtumps that had been partially conſumed by fire. Had this conflagration been occaſioned, as ſome of us ſuppoſed, by repeated ſtorms of violent lightning and thunder, it is reaſonable to imagine we ſhould have ſeen the foreſt trees much torn and ſhattered to pieces; which in no inſtance was obſerved. - As nothing further occurred worthy any parti- cular notice, I ſhall conclude my remarks on this country by ſtating the aſtronomical and nautical obſervations that were made for aſcertaining its ſituation, and for other purpoſes of navigation. The 1791.] Round THE wokLD. 170 The latitude of the ſituation of the ſhips in King George the Third's ſound, deduced from nine meridional altitudes of the ſun, taken by four dif- ferent obſervers and quadrants, all nearly agreeing together, gave their mean reſult - 35 The longitude deduced from the mean reſult of 25 ſets of lunar diſtances of the ſun and ſtars, taken before our arrival; eight ſets taken whilſt at an- chor in the ſound; and 52 ſets taken after our departure, and 30" ſouth. reduced to our ſtation there ; making in the whole 85 ſets, each ſet containing ſix obſerv- 'ed diſtances, and equal to 510 obſervations, gave - . 1 18° 14' 13" eaſt. Kendall's chronometer, al- łowing the Portſmouth rate, on our arrival ſhewed - 1 17 46 O Allowing the Cape rate 1 18 23 O Arnold's chronometer, on board the Chatham, allowing the Cape rate - - 1 17 38 30 By the daily obſervations made at anchor, Kendall's chronometer appeared to have altered M 2 ItS 189 A YoYAGE OF DISCOW ERY [oct. its rate as ſettled at the Cape of Good Hope, and ſeemed to be going nearer to its original Portſ. mouth rate. The reſult of a fortnight's obſerva- tions proved it to be gaining at the rate of 6" per day; and admitting the longitude to be right as aſcertained by our obſervations, it was, at noon on the 9th of Oétober, faſt of mean time at Greenwich, 26' 14": and as it was manifeſt on our arrival and during our reſidence at the Cape, that Kendall's chronometer was gaining mate- rially on its Portſmouth rate, I have, in reducing the obſervations taken prior to our arrival in King George the Third's ſound, adopted a mean rate, which I truſt will render the reſult of the ſeveral obſervations liable to little error. The variation of the magnetic needle on board, whilſt at anchor, by two compaſſes, differed from 3° 55' to 7° 1 1". The mean reſult of 12 ſets ſhewed 5° 20' weſtwardly variation. The vertical inclination of the ſouth point of the magnetic needle, marked end North, face Eaſt , - - 65° 40' Marked end North face Weſt - 63 Marked end South face Eaſt - 65 28 Marked end South face Weſt - 65 20 Mean vertical inclination of the ſouth point of the marine dipping needle 64 54 Our obſervations with regard to the tides were rather indeciſive, as their fluctuation in the ſound - } ſeemed 1791.] ' ' ' ROUND THE WORLD. I'81 ſeemed to be greatly ifluenced by the force and direétion of the wind; our laſt viſit, however, to Oyſter harbour afforded an opportunity of notic- ing that the riſe and fall appeared on that day to be about four feet, and that it was high water 3",42' after the moon paſſed the meridian. Whilſt on the coaſt the veſſels were conſtantly found to be further advanced, than what the run of the log intimated; but whether this was oc- caſioned by errors in this practice, or by a current continually preſſing eaſtward along the coaſt, we had no poſitive means of diſcovering; though, from our concluſions at the time, the latter ſhould ſeem to be the caſe, as the log was not only uſed with much circumſpection, but the line was fre- quently remeaſured, and always found according to its due proportions. M & CHAPTER I82 A voyage of piscovery [oct. CHAPTER IV. Paſſage from the ſouth-weſt Coaſt of New Holland –Paſs Van Dieman's Land—Arrival in Duſky JBay, New Zealand—Wiolent Storms— Leave Duſky Bay—A violent Storm—Much Water found in the Ship—Part Company with the Chatham — Diſcover the Smares—Proceed to- wards Otaheite—Arrive and join the Chatham there. • Oº apprehenſions of approaching boiſterous *—’ weather, proved in the ſequel to have been ill founded ; for notwithſtanding the S. W. ſwell on the 17th greatly increaſed, a gentle gale con- tinued to attend us, chiefly from the weſtern quarter, with pleaſant weather. With this we ſteered to the S. E. and without the occurrence of any intervening circumſtance worth relating, made ſuch progreſs, that on Wedneſday the 26th we had fight of Van Dieman's Land, bearing by compaſs E.N.E. 10 or 12 leagues diſtant. Sound- ings at this time could not be gained at the depth of 80 fathoms. During this paſſage few oceanic birds had been ſeen; a continual and heavy ſwell had rolled between the ſouth and weſt, and we - - experienced 1791.] ROUKID THE WORLD. 1833 experienced the ſame fort of influence in our reckoning as on the coaſt of New Holland, in finding the ſhip every day further advanced than we expe&ted. A continuance of fine weather al- lowed ſeveral lunar obſervations to be taken, which were directed to the purpoſe of aſcertain- ing the longitude of our laſt ſtation. The breeze from the S. E. was very light, and it was not until late in the day that the land could be plain- ly diſtinguiſhed. At ſeven o'clock in the even- ing we tacked and ſtood to the S. W.; the Mewſtone bearing by compaſs S. 88 E.; the eaſternmoſt part of the main land in fight N. 824 E. the ſouth-weſt cape being the neareſt land N. E. three or four leagues diſtant; land appear- ing like an iſland, N. 1 1 W. and the weſtern- moſt part of the main land N. 5 W. This land lies from the ſouth-weſt cape N. 16 W. about nine leagues diſtant: between theſe points the coaſt ſeemed to be much broken, with ſome ſmall iſlands lying a few miles from the ſhore. It was nearly calm during the night, and although within three or four leagues of the land, ſound- ings could not be gained at the depth of 130 fa- thoms. * - In the morning of Thurſday the 27th weſteered along the coaſt, with a fine breeze from N. N. W.; and about eight, under the meridian of M 4 the 184 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [ocT. the ſouth-weſt cape, the chrono- meter gave the longitude by the laſt rate , sw - - º 146° 27' 0% By the Cape rate - 147 7 15 ... By the Portſmouth rate - 146 8 - The former, places the ſouth-weſt cape 20' further eaſt than the lon- gitude affigned to it by Captain Cook. The chronometer placed & the Swilly rock which we paſſed - in the evening, according to the laſt rate, in longitude - I 479 23' 30% According to the Cape rate 148 3 45 Portſmouth rate 147 2 . By the laſt rate the chronometer was 174 to the eaſt of Captain Cook's longitude of this rock, and made the mean difference of the longitude of this coaſt, 18' 45° to the eaſtward of Captain Cook's calculations; whence it would appear, that either the chronometer had acquired that error ſince our departure from King George the Third's ſound, or that we had placed that port a few miles too far to the eaſtward. The neareſt land at ſix in the evening, was the ſouth Cape of Van Dieman's, which bore by compaſs N. 24. W. 6 or 7 leagues diſtant. Having now a fine gale at N. N. E. we took two reefs in the top- ſails; ſhaped a courſe for Duſky bay in New Zealand; and by ſignal to the Chatham ap- . . . . . . * * . pointed 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. I 85 pointed Facile harbour in that bay as the next place of rendezvous. The dyſentery, though nearly ſubdued on board both veſſels, had left thoſe who had been afflićted with it in a very feeble and reduced ſtate; and not knowing of any place ſo eaſily within our reach, where ſuch excellent refreſhments could be procured with ſo much facility, together with timber for planks, ſpars, tent poles, &c. &c. of which we ſtood in great need, I was induced to make choice of Duſky bay, notwithſtanding the inconvenience it labours under from the great depth of water, and want of anchorage in its en- trailCC. & - A favorable wind, attended in general with to- lerably fine weather, varied between the N. and W. and afterwards between the W. and S. with freſh gales, until Wedneſday the 2d of Novem- ber; when about nine in the forenoon we were brought within fight of the coaſt of New Zea- land, bearing by compaſs E. N. E. 12 or 14 leagues diſtant. We ſtood for the land, making all ſail with a freſh breeze at S. W.; but the weather was ſo exceedingly hazy, that it was one o'clock in the forenoon before it was plainly diſ- tinguiſhed; when Five Finger point was ſeen bearing by compaſs N. E. 7 leagues diſtant, and the weſt cape E. by N. # N. The wind in the evening veered round to the N. N. W. and being light, 186 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [Nov. light, with alternate calms, the boats were hoiſt- ed out to tow ; by which means, and with the additional aſſiſtance of a heavy ſwell rolling up Duſky bay, we anchored about nine that even- ing in 40 fathoms ſoft bottom, in the arm lead- ing into Facile harbour. Five Finger point by compaſs bore S. 38 W.; the weſt point of Par- rot iſland N. 35 E.; and the neareſt ſhore W. N. W. half a mile diſtant. About eleven the Chatham anchored, and, though within us, was in 60 fathoms water. Although in the year 1773 I had viſited Duſky bay with Captain Cook in the Reſolution, I had never been in Facile harbour; for this reaſon I deemed it expedient, previous to moving the veſ- fels, to examine and determine on a ſituation there moſt convenient for our ſeveral employ- ments. Qn this occaſion I was accompanied by Mr. Broughton and Mr. Whidbey. Having made our choice, we were greatly alarmed on our return by the report of two guns; but as the wind had much increaſed ſince our departure from the ſhips, we were not long at a loſs how to account for this ſignal, and concluded that one or both of the veſſels had driven from their an- chorage. - We were no ſooner clear of the iſlands than our conjećtures were in part confirmed. The Chatham was ſtationary, but the Diſcovery was amoving; 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 187 moving; and by the time we reached her, about one o'clock, ſhe was nearly abreaſt of Five Finger - point. We found that, on the ſhip's driving, a ſecond anchor had been reſorted to ; but the depth of water being upwards of 70 fathoms, ſhe was not brought up ; that anchor was again at the bows, and the other nearly up ; ſo that we were ſhortly enabled to ſet the ſails; and, having a ſtrong gale at the N. N. W. though attended with heavy ſqualls, I was not without hopes of reaching our deſtination in Facile harbour before duſk. But about five, a very violent guſt of wind carried away the ſtrap of the fore-topſail ſheet block; the ſtayſail ſheets and haulyards gave way; and the fore-topmaſt ſtayſail ſplit: the gale ſeemed to be increaſing, and as we were in too narrow a channel to repair theſe damages before we ſhould have loſt all the diſtance we had gained, it was exceedingly fortunate that we had Anchor iſland harbour to leeward of us, for which we immediately ſteered; and running in by the weſtern entrance, anchored at the mouth of the cove in 26 fathoms, ſoft muddy bottom; and after veering to half a cable, our ſtern was in 13 fathoms water, about 40 yards from the iſland that lies at the bottom of the cove. The ſhip was ſteadied by hawſers, from the bows to the points of the cove, and from the quarters to the trces on each ſide. The gale increaſed during the | SS A VOYAGE • OF DISCOVERY [Nov. the night; and it became neceſſary to ſtrike the lower yards and top-gallant maſts. Our appre- henſions for the ſafety of the Chatham were not relicved until, by rowing over to the Petrel iſlands the next forenoon, Friday the 4th, and by walk- ing acroſs the land, we had the happineſs to ſee her ride in perfect ſafety; but as ſhe was directly to windward, and the gale continued to increaſe, Mr. Broughton was unable to get on board. Sa- tisfied with the ſecurity of her ſtation, we re- turned to the Diſcovery, when the violence of thc gale from the N. W. obliged us to ſtrike the topmaſts, it not being in our power to veer more cable, or allow the ſhip to drive, without her being on the rocks aftern ; of which, even with theſe precautions, we entertained ſome fears; al- though in a ſituation perfeótly land locked, and the weather ſhores not more than five cables length diſtant. The violence of the gale ſtill continuing, the ſmall bower anchor was dropped under foot. In the evening the wind moderated a little, which ſeemed to be for the ſole purpoſe of acquiring and returning with new vigor, as, by two on Saturday morning the 5th, the gale in- creaſed to ſo violent a ſtorm, as to oblige us to lower the top-maſts cloſe down to the cap, and to get our yards and top-gallant maſts fore and aft on the deck. From five o'clock until eight, it blew a perfect hurricane, attended with tor- - rents 179].] Roux D THE worlp; 189 rents of rain. We were happily in a very ſnug, ſecure little harbour, yet the ſea beat with ſuch unremitting violence againſt the rocks immedi- ately aſtern of us, that had either the anchor or cable given way, little elſe but inevitabie deſtruc- tion muſt have followed. Our anxiety was in- finitely increaſed by our ſolicitude for the welfare of the Chatham ; but as the ſtorm with us at N.W. by W. was directly from off the high land under which ſhe rode, we comforted ourſelves with the hope ſhe might not experience its fury to the degree it affected us. About nine a moſt tremendous guſt cauſed the ſhip to roll exceſ- fively; this was immediately followed by a flaſh of lightning, and a heavy craſh of thunder, which broke up the ſtorm; and in the ſpace of half an hour, the weather might be confidered, compa- paratively ſpeaking, as fair and pleaſant. Mr. Broughton immediately repaired to the Chat- ham, and had the inexpreſſible pleaſure of find- 4. J. 2. ing that ſhe had rode out the gale in a man:er far beyond all expectation. At her ſtation the ſtorm had blown from the N. N. E. directly down the arm in which ſhe was at anchor; the ſea broke intirely over her, though it had not a fetch of three miles, and in a channel not three quarters of a mile wide; yet with her yards and topmaſts cloſe lowered, and two anchors down, ſhe rode out this heavy ſtorm in perfeót * ſecurity, 190 A voy AGE OF DIscovery [Nov. ſecurity. Mr. Broughton loſt no time in getting under weigh, and worked into Facile harbour; to which place, notwithſtanding our having been obliged to ſeek ſhelter here, it was my intention to have gone; but as we were now completely diſmantled, and finding that from theſe ſhores all our wants could be conveniently ſupplied, I de- termined to remain quiet, and to ſet about the ſeveral repairs we required with all poſſible diſ- patch. Parties were immediately employed on the different ſervices of cutting wood for fuel, timber for ſpars and planks; brewing ſpruce beer; repairing the ſails and rigging, caſks, &c. &c. which neceſſary and eſſential duties engaged every perſon on board. A ſmall boat with four men, daily employed in fiſhing, never returned with- out an abundance of excellent fiſh for preſent uſe, and a ſupply for every one who choſe to ſalt them for future occaſions. The N. W. gale did not intirely abandon us, it again blew with confider- able violence on Sunday the 6th, after which it moderated, and the weather became ſettled, ſe- rene and pleaſant, particularly when the wind, which was generally the caſe, had its dire&tion from the ſouth or weſtern quarters; by which means our ſeveral duties were executed pleaſantly and with great eaſe. . . . . . By Sunday the 13th, theſe neceſſary opera- tions were in ſuch a ſtate of forwardneſs, as to allow 1791.] Roun D THE WORLD. 191 allow a large party of officers and gentlemen in two boats, accompanied by Mr. Broughton in the Chatham's cutter, to attend me on an excur- ſion over this ſpacious bay, with the hope of be- coming acquainted with ſome of the inhabitants; and if circumſtances permitted, to explore the upper part of the northern arm, which by Capt. Cook was called, “No Bo D Y KNows wh AT,” and the only part he did not thoroughly examine. On Monday the 14th we found the arm in which Captain Cook places Apparent iſland, to be divided into two branches, leaving that land a peninſula joined to the main land, by a very high, though narrow ridge of mountains. The perpendicular height, and very extraordinary ſhape, of the rocky part fronting the arm, render it a moſt ſingular and majeſtic promontory. Mr. Broughton undertook the right hand, or ſouthern branch, which he found winding, firſt in a di- rečtion nearly N. E. by E. about 3% miles; then E. S. E. about half a league; and there, in a nor- thern direction, terminating in a ſmall cove. The northern arm we found to run nearly ſtrai ght about N. E. for five miles, then turning round to the northward, for half a league further, and cad- ing in a ſmall cove with very ſhallow water, in a north weſtern direétion. The heads of theſe arms, in conformity with Captain Cook's name of their entrance, I have called Soxie BoDY KNows VW H A T. 19? A vöYAGE of Discovery [Nov. whAT. We were exceedingly fortunate in hav- ing moſt delightful weather for theſe examina- tions, and returned on board in the afternoon of Tueſday the 15th, though not without ſome diſ- appointment that, after three days excurſion, and landing in many places, particularly in Caſcade and Indian coves, which were formerly the re- ſort of the natives, we no where found any traces of them, or any circumſtance that in the leaſt indicated the country being at preſent inhabited; if one or two miſerable huts be excepted, which the officers of the Chatham met with in the neighbourhood of Facile harbour, but which had not the appearance of having been lately occu- pied. Pleaſant weather ſtill continuing, on Wed- neſday the 16th I took a ſurvey of Anchor iſland harbour. It appeared to be perfectly ſecure, and may be found convenient, when accident may prevent veſſels getting into Facile harbour. It has two entrances; that to the north of the Pe- trel iſlands is a fair and clear channel, though of great depth ; its general ſoundings being from 23 to 38 fathoms; in the narroweſt part it is about a cable's length wide, and, I believe, frce from any danger; as the ſhores are ſteep, with- out any ſunken rocks or ſhoals, excepting within the paſſage cloſe under the ſouth fide of large Petrel iſland, where they are diſcoverable by the weeds growing upon them, and are ** ... • ' ' ' . the 1791.] ROUNT) THE WORLD. 193 the way of its navigation. The other paſſage is to the ſouthward of the Petrel iſlands; and as, in all probability, a ſtrong northerly wind would alone induce any perſon to make choice of this in preference to Facile harbour, the S. W. point of large Petrel iſland ſhould be kept cloſe on board, (which may be ſafely done) in order to weather the rock that appears above water in the middle of the harbour, and to avoid a ſunken one of which there is not the leaſt indication, and on which there is no greater depth than twelve feet at low water. Between this ſunken rock, and the point from off which it lies about three quarters of a cable's length, and nearly in the direction to what. I have called ENTRY Island, are ſixteen fathoms. Keeping the rock in the harbour, which is always viſible, in a line with what I have called North ENTRY ISLAND, will be ſufficient direction, to paſs within the above-mentioned point and the ſunken rock. This, however, with ſome other particulars, is better illuſtrated by the annexed ſketch; which, with one of Facile harbour taken by Mr. Brough- toti, I have ſubjoined to a copy of Captain Cook's moſt excellent chart of this port, with ſuch tri- fling additions as in the courſe of our obſervations we have been able to make : and on this head, I ſhall only further remark, that Anchor Iſland Vol. I. N harbour, 94 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [Nov. harbour, although a very ſafe and ſecure port, is not a very convenient one to get to ſea from, owing to its narrow limits, great depth of water, and the above ſunken rock which we diſcovered in its weſtern entrance. - • Moſt of our buſineſs with the ſhore being finiſhed, our rigging overhauled, ſails bent, and the ſhip ready for ſea, with very fine weather and a gentle breeze from S. S. E., on the morn- ing of Friday the 18th we ſailed out of the cove. The Chatham was not yet in readineſs to depart; in order, however, that we might be conveni- ently ſtationed to proceed together when circum- ftances ſhould admit, I intended to place,the ſhip abreaſt of Facile harbour; but the breeze-failing, and the tide ſetting us towards the iſlands that lie from it, we were obliged to anchor: ſooner than I wiſhed in 38 fathoms ſoft bottom.” Five Finger point by compaſs bore S. 40 W.; weſt point of Anchor iſland S. 12 W. and the ſouth point of Parrot iſland N. 53 W. a quarter of a mile diſtant. The day was nearly calm, but the next morning brought with it a freſh breeze from the ſouthward. The Chatham having completed her buſineſs, ſtood out into the roadſtead, which obtained the name of TEMPEST Road, from the ſtorm ſhe there rode out on our arrival: but not ſeeing any probability of getting to ſca, ſhe re- r . º turned 1791 ..] ROUND THE WORLD. 195 turned into Facile harbour. The gale increaſed towards noon, but in the evening the weather became delightfully pleaſant. On the morning of Sunday the 20th, about ſeven o'clock, a freſh breeze from the S. W. ſet in, accompanied by an unuſually heavy ſwell, which giving us reaſon to apprehend ſome vio- lence from the wind in that direction, we weighed, ran into Facile harbour, and anchored abreaſt of the paſſage leading out through Parrot and Pi— geon iſlands, in 38 fathoms ſoft bottom. This paſſage, though not exceeding a cable's length in width, we found to be a very excellent one, with ſoundings from nine to five fathoms cloſe to the ſhores. Theſe ſoundings are on a ridge from iſland to iſland, as the water deepened to up- wards of 30 fathoms immediately on either ſide. The Chatham was at anchor near us, and both veſſels were conveniently ſtationed for proceed- ing to ſea on a favorable opportunity preſenting itſelf. The wind continued to blow very ſtrong from the S. W. and brought with it a ſurf which broke very heavily on the ſhores in the bay; yet the veſſels rode perfectly quiet. On Monday the 21ſt, the ſky became intirely obſcured, with dark gloomy weather, and the wind became variable with much rain. The next morning was per- fectly calm, and although it did not rain, the heavy atmoſphere continued. We were now em- N 2 ployed 196 A VOYAGE OF D lSCOVERY [Nov. ployed in completing our ſtock of water, and in procuring wood, ſpruce, or rather a ſpecies of cypreſs, and the tea plant, for brewing at ſea. Towards noon, a breeze ſpringing up from the N. W. both veſſels ſailed out of Duſky bay. A very heavy ſwell rolled from the S. W. and weſt- ward; but having a freſh breeze, by four o'clock Five Finger point bore N. by E. a league diſtant. Thus we quitted Duſky bay, greatly indebted to its moſt excellent refreſhments, and the ſalu- brity of its air. The good effects of a plentiful ſupply of fiſh, and ſpruce beer, were evident in the appearance of every individual in our little ſociety. The health of our convaleſcents was perfectly re-eſtabliſhed, and excepting one with a chronic complaint, and two wounded by cuts in their legs, we had not a man on the ſurgeon's liſt ; though, on the moſt trifling occaſion of in- diſpoſition, no perſon was ever permitted to at- tend his duty. Some wild fowl were procured, though they were by no means found in ſuch numbers as when the Reſolution was here in the year 1773, owing, in all probability, to the dif- ference of the ſeaſon; to which, poſſibly, is to be aſcribed, our being unable to aſcertain whe- ther the geeſe then left here had propagated. Captain Cook's very excellent deſcription of this place precludes any material additions; and leaves me, as a tranſitory viſitor, little elſe than - . the 1791.] ROUND THE WORL O. 1 97 the power of confirming his judicious remarks and opinions. One circumſtance, however, may not be unworthy of notice. Mr. Menzies here found the true winter's bark; exactly the ſame plant as that found at Tierra del Fuego ; but which eſcaped the obſervation of Captain Cook and our botanical gentlemen in 1773: of this, with the antarétic birch, flax, and one or two other plants, we took ſpecimens on board, though the period of our reaching England ſeemed too diſtant to entertain hopes of their continuing alive. Captain Cook's recommendation of Facile harbour to veſſels bound to the ſouthward, is high- ly judicious, as it is in all reſpects a ſafe, com- modious, and convenient ſtation; capable of ſup- plying every article that can be expected from this country, without going out of ſight of the veſſel: and it is rendered ſtill more eligible, by our having found ſo good an outlet with northerly or N. W. winds, between Pigeon and Parrot iſlands; as, in conſequence of the high land drawing thoſe winds direétly down the harbour, the weſtern entrance will be found leſs convenient. No time ſhould be loſt on arriving in this bay, to ſeek ſe- curity in ſome of its harbours: which, as Cap- tain Cook yery truly obſerves, “are numerous, “ſafe, and convenient.” For although the wea- ther we experienced after the ſtorm on our arri- val, may juſtly be confidered as delightful ſum- - N 3 II].CI *. 198 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [Nov. mer weather, yet it cannot be denied that the northerly winds blow with incredible fury; and as they always take the direction of the arms of the bay, they cauſe in them, though they are very narrow, a conſiderable ſea, which, in addition to their great depth of water, render ſuch anchoring places neither pleaſant nor ſecure. I ſhould not, however, ſuppoſe theſe ſtorms to be very fre- quent, for two reaſons. Firſt, during our ſtay here, from the 26th of March until the 11th of May in the year 1773, which may be conſidered as comprehending part of the winter ſeaſon, we had no gale of wind comparable in point of vio- lence to that which we had lately experienced. This was my fifth viſit to New Zealand and its neighbourhood; and although I have certainly ſeen much boiſterous and tempeſtuous weather, I never before contended with ſo violent a ſtorm. Secondly, the mountains in Anchor iſland, Reſo- lution iſland, and all thoſe of moderate height round the bay (the land of Five Finger point alone excepted), which on our arrival were per- feótly free from ſnow, were after the ſtorm co- vered with it a conſiderable way down. Were ſuch falls of ſnow to happen frequently, it is na- tural to conclude that vegetation would be ſe- verely checked, and that its produćtions would not have been found to flouriſh, as they certainly do in a moſt luxuriant manner. A few days fine weather 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 199 weather ſoon removed the greater part of the ſnow; and that which remained on the high, diſtant, barren mountains, which for ſome days paſt had been entirely free from clouds, was ob- ſerved to be greatly diminiſhed. I ſhall conclude our tranſačtions in Duſky bay, by noticing the few aſtronomical and nautical obſervations that were made in Anchor Iſland harbour. - The badneſs of the weather on our firſt arrival, and the ſhort time I purpoſed to remain, made me conclude that the erection of the obſervatory on ſhore would be to little purpoſe. The lati- tude of the harbour was found to be one minute ſouth of Captain Cook's calculation, or 45° 45' 36". His determination is, however, moſt likely to be correót, as mine was deduced from one day's obſervation only, with an artificial horizon; and, having agreed ſo nearly, any further inveſ- tigation I deemed unneceſſary. The mean reſult of ten ſets of altitudes taken between the gth and 16th of November, for aſ- certaining the longitude of the chronometer, and to form ſome judgment as to its rate of going, were as follows, viz. ^ By the Portſmouth rate it placed Anchor Iſland harbour in longitude 166°42'23" By the Cape rate 167° 55' 12" N 4 By 200 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [Nov. By KingGeorge the Third's Sound - rate tºmºsºmº tº-ºººººº- tºmº 167° 7' 40" The true longitude as aſſigned to that place by Captain Cook 166° 15' 54" Makes the Portſmouth rate eaſt of the truth tºmº gºmº 26' 20" Cape rate ditto *- — 19 39' 18% KingGeorge the Third's Sound ditto 51' 46% Mr. Arnold's watch on board the Chatham gave the longitude of Fa- cile harbour, according to the Cape rate *g — — 165° 48' 52% Eſteeming the true longitude of Anchor Iſland harbour to be 1660 15' 54", the chronometer was faſt of mean time at Greenwich on the 16th at noon 26' 34"; whence it appeared, that it had gone nearly at mean time ſince leaving King George the Third's ſound, and that its having differed from Captain Cook's affigned longitude of Van Dieman's land was occaſioned by its not having gained at the rate we allowed, and of courſe the longitude of King George the Third's Sound was not wrong. By the reſult of our ob- ſervations here, it gained on an average about 3" per day, which error I ſhall allow, until a bet- ter opportunity of aſcertaining its rate may offer. The variation of the magnetic needle, obſerved on ſhore by three different compaſſes in 18 ſets s' - of 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 2O1 of azimuths, varied from 1 19 17' to 17° 20', the mean reſult of which was 14° 55'45" caſt vari- ation. The vertical inclination of the ſouth point of the magnetic needle on board was found to be— - Marked end North, face Eati, 7 0° 3’ 5 A Ditto North, fºrce Wºº, třg 3 y Ditto South, face ºf , 79 5 Ditto South, face W cit, 69 35 Mean inclination of thc ſouth point of the dipping needle 69 43 . As we increaſed our diſtance from the land, the N. W. wind increaſed alſo. A ſwell at this time coming very heavily from the S. W. made me apprehenſive the wind would ſhift round, and blow hard in that direétion. The ſtate of the mercury in the barometer, the gloomineſs of the weather, and every other appearance of the even- ing, indicated more wind from the S. W. than would be pleaſant to be caught in on this dreary coaſt: we therefore ſteered ſouth, under as much ſail as we could carry, and made the neceſſary ſignals to the Chatham for the like purpoſe. Our lofty canvaſs was, however, ſpread a very ſhort time before it blew ſo hard a gale, that we were under the neceſſity of cloſe reefing the topſails, getting down the top-gallant yards, and ſtriking the maſts. The night was extremely dark; which, by ten, prevented our ſeeing the Chat- * - ham. 2O2. A VOYAGE OF DISCOV ERY [Nov. ham. The wind was now at N. N. W. very hap- pily not on the ſhore, as by three in the morning of Wedneſday the 23d its increaſed violence ob- liged us to furl the topſails. At this moment we were alarmed by finding ſix feet water in the hold, which the ſhip felt exceſſively, labouring much by being preſſed down forward with that weight of water. This very unpleaſant circum- ſtance obliged us to ſcud directly before the wind and ſea, for the purpoſe of freeing the ſhip; when, by receiving much water in the waſte, the caſks of beer and water ſtowed upon deck, broke from their ſecurities and were ſtove to pieces. The cauſe of ſo much water in the hold, at firſt a matter of great ſurprize, was ſoon ac- counted for. The hand pumps had been, and were ſtill, choaked; which induced the carpen- ter to believe, that becauſe they diſcharged no water there was none in the ſhip. This, in all probability had governed his examination all the latter part of the time we had been in port, and produced an accumulation that might have been attended with the moſt ſerious conſequences, had not one of the quarter-maſters heard in the tier, the water ruſhing about in the hold. The hand pumps were ſoon in order; and, to relieve the ſhip as ſoon as poſſible, the croſs piece of the bits was unſhipped, thc launch got forward, and with the chain pumps the veſſel by ſeven o'clock W 3 S 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 2O3 was made perfeótly dry. The gale had now in- creaſed to a moſt furious ſtorm, nearly cqual to that we had experienced in Duſky bay. The torrents of rain which fell, mixing with thc ſea raiſed by the violent flurries of the wind, kept us ſo much in darkneſs that we could not perceive any thing at the diſtance of an hundred yards in any direction; nor were we able to reſume our ſouthwardly courſe; the wind and ſea obliging us to ſteer S. S. E. or right before the ſtorm. We had not ſeen the Chatham ſince eleven o’clock the preceding evening, but concluding ſhe would ftand on if able to purſue a ſouthwardly courſe, I did not wiſh to bring to for her; particularly, as the wind was ſuch as would ſoon ſet us clear of the coaſt of New Zealand, which was doubtleſs a very deſirable objećt. - Towards nine in the forenoon of Thurſday the 24th the ſtorm began to abate ; at ten the wind veered round to the W. S. W.; the rain ceaſed, and the atmoſphere became clear, but the Chatham was not to be diſcovered in any direc- tion. There was, however, great probability of her being to windward ; and as I was ſtill appre- henſive of a S. W. gale before we ſhould be clear of this coaſt, I determined to loſe no time in getting far enough to the ſouthward to enable us to ſail round the land and the Traps with ſuch a wind. As Matavai bay in Otahcite was the Inext 204 A VOYAGE OF DISCO W ERY [Nov. next appointed rendezvous, I concluded Mr. Broughton would do the ſame, and make the beſt of his way with the Chatham to that port. The mainſail and Čloſe-reefed topſails (all the ſail the ſhip would bear) were now ſet, and keep- ing the wind on the beam, we ſteered S. S. E.; when about eleven o'clock, to our great aſtoniſh- ment, land was diſcovered, bearing eaſt four or five leagues diſtant. We knew of no land nearer than the ſouth cape of New Zealand; and, by the courſes we had ſteered there was ſcarcely a poſſibility of our being within leſs than 18 or 20 leagues of the Cape : but being flattered with the proſpect of a meridional obſervation for the lati- tude, our deciſion was poſtponed until that ſhould be aſcertained. Noon brought us nearer the land, which by compaſs bore from N. E. by E. to E.N. E. at the diſtance of three or four leagues only. By a tolerably good obſervation in lati- tude 48° 5' it was clearly proved, that this land could not, from its ſituation, be any part of New Zealand, as it was nearly three fourths of a de- gree to the ſouthward of the moſt ſouthern pro- montory of that country. Our longitude by the chronometer, was at this time 166°4'; which fituation was 18 more ſouth, and 13' more eaſt, than the log gave. The weather, though very hazy, being ſomething clearer than before noon, we beheld, as we paſſed this land at the diſtance * : , - of 1791.] RöUND THE WORLD. 2O5 of two or three leagues, the ſea breaking upon its ſhores with great violence, and diſcovered it to be compoſed of a cluſter of ſeven craggy iſlands, extending about ſix miles in a dire&tion N. 70 E. and S. 70 W. They appeared deſtitute of ver- dure, and it is more than probable they never produce any. The largeſt, which is the north- eaſternmoſt, I ſhould ſuppoſe to be in extent equal to all the reſt; it is about three leagues in circuit, ſufficiently elevated to be ſeen in clear weather eight or nine leagues off, and is ſituated in latitude 48° 3/, longitude 166° 20'. The lati- tude was aſcertained by three ſextants which nearly agreed; and the longitude reduced by the chronometer from Duſky bay, by three ſets of altitudes in the afternoon ; viz. one ſet before we paſſed its meridian ; another under it; the third after we had paſſed it. As theſe ſeverally correſponded within a mere trifle, when reduced to the ſame point, I ſhould preſume that the lon- gitude above ſtated is not likely to be materially incorrect. It was matter of ſome ſurprize how theſe iſlands could have eſcaped the attention of Captain Cook; but on laying them down in his chart of New Zealand, I found his tracks had not at any time reached within at leaſt ten leagues of them. From the ſouth cape they bear S. 40 W. 19 leagues, and from the ſouthernmoſt part of the Traps S. 62% W. 20 leagues diſtant. Theſe iſlands, QO6 A voy. AGE of Discovery [Nov. iſlands, or rather rocks, for they appeared per- fečtly ſteril, I have named, on account of their fituation, and the ſort of weather there is great reaſon to cxpečt in their vicinity, THE SNAREs ; as being very likely to draw the unguarded ma- riner into alarming difficulties. At four o'clock in the afternoon, the Snares bore by compaſs N. 30 W. five or fix leagues diſtant. At day-light the next morning, Friday the 25th, we hauled to the N. E. By noon, the gale had ſufficiently mo- derated to admit the ſpreading of all our canvaſs; at noon the obſerved latitude was 48° 18', lon- gitude 160° 33'. I cannot avoid here mention- ing the concern I felt in beholding the laſt of our ſheep thrown overboard; the race of ani- mals of the brute creation on board the Diſco- very, had certainly been very ill fated; out of thirty ſheep taken on board at Portſmouth, no more than two came to the table, the reſt died before we reached the equator; nor were we much more fortunate in the like number of we- thers received at the Cape; two thirds of theſe, with ſeven cwes and ſix rams, intended as pre- ſents to our friends in the South Sea iſlands, were at this time dead; notwithſtanding they were all taken on board in exceedingly high condition, and had neither wanted care, plenty of whole- fome food, nor good lodging. With a pleaſant favorable gale; ſometimes in • , the 1791.] ROUND THE WOR I. D. 2O7 the N. W. but chiefly from the S. W. quarter, and with tolerably fine weather, we ſtood to the E. N. E.; and made ſuch progreſs, that by noon on the 8th of December we had reached the lati- tude of 37° 27', longitude 207° 14'. The wind veered round to the north with a moderate breeze, attended by dark gloomy weather and ſome rain. On Saturday the 10th we were ſur- rounded by a very thick fog, which, with much rain at intervals, continued until Tueſday the 13th; when having a fine breeze at S. S. W. the fog cleared away, but it ſtill remained very choudy. We were however enabled to aſcertain our ſitua- tion for the firſt time ſince the 8th, to be in lati- tude 36° 13', longitude 214° 33', varying ſince that day 53' more to the north, and 28 more to the eaſt, than was ſhewn by the log. We ſtood to the north, under all the ſail we could ſpread, but were not ſuffered long to purſue this courſe. In the latitude of 31° 43', longitude 214° 1 1/, at noon-on. Thurſday the 15th the wind veered round, and ſettled between the N. E. and N. N. E. obliging us ply with a moderate breeze to the northward; in doing which ſo little was gained, that on Saturday the 17th we had only reached the latitude of 31° S., longitude 214°34'. The wind now blew a freſh gale from the north, the topſails were reefed, the weather was very dark, gloomy, and exceſſively ſultry, with con- tinued 2OS A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEc. tinued lightning and thunder at ſome diſtance, until the morning, when the wind died away, and in its ſtead, extremely vivid forked lightning, with inceſſant peals of thunder, accompanied by torrents of rain, attended us, without intermiſ- fion, until noon of Sunday the 18th. The thun- .der and lightning then ceaſed, but the rain ſtill continued ; and, contrary to our expectation, the wind reſumed its N. N. E. direétion, and blew ſo hard as to make the ſtriking our top- gallant yards neceſſary. A remarkably ſmooth ſea, with heavy, damp, cloſe, cloudy weather, and little alteration in the wind, attended us until Tueſday the 20th; it then moderated, and the top-gallant ſails were ſpread. Since the 17th we had not obtained any cor- rečt obſervations 3 but, by our reckoning, the la- titude at noon was 30° 17', longitude 215° 22'. Although the wind from the north and N. N. E. was attended with ſudden and violent flurries, yet the ſea continued ſmooth, which indicated, that land, probably of ſome extent, exiſted not very far diſtant in that direction. After noon, we ſtood to the eaſtward about four leagues: when, ſuddenly, a very heavy ſwell was met from N. N. E. which was ſoon followed by ſuch an increaſe of wind from that quarter, as reduced us to our cloſe-reefed topſails. This gale, which proved the breaking up of the northerly wind, W3S 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 209 was of ſhort duration: in the evening it mode- rated, and veered round by the caſt to the S. S. W. We made all ſail to the north by weſt; but it was not until the wind became a very freſh breeze, that we were enabled to ſteer that courſe againſt the northerly ſwell, which drove the ſhip aſtern. This evening there were ſeveral ſmall white tern hovering about the ſhip, ſeemingly with great inclination to alight on board. On the morning of Wedneſday the 21ſt, the head ſea had for the moſt part ſubſided, and the wind ſeemed to have ſettled in the ſouthern quarter: and blowing a gentle breeze with very pleaſant weather, enabled me to obtain ſix ſets of lunar diſtances, whoſe mean reſult reduced to noon gave the longitude 215° 22′ 45". The chrono- meter, by the laſt rate ſhewed 215° 16' 45", the latitude was 29° 15'; which was, at this time, 6’ further north than we expected. We continued our route to the northward ; which, with a gentle gale at S. S. E. and plea- ſant weather, brought us, by day-light on Thurſ- day the 22d, in fight of land, bearing by compaſs N. E. : N. At firſt it appeared like three ſmall high iſlands, the eaſternmoſt much reſembling a veſſel under ſail. This land being at a conſider- able diſtance from the tracks of former navigators, I ſteered for it, in order to be ſatisfied of its ex- tent, produćions, and other circumſtances wor- VoI., I, O thy ? I Gº A VOYAGE OF DISCO Wr ERY ſpp. thy obſervation. In the forenoon, eight ſets of lunar diſtances were obtained : which, as before, nearly correſponding with each other, gave, by their mean reſult, when reduced to noon, 21.5° 42' 40", theſe, with thoſe taken the preceding day, comprehending 14 ſets of diſtances, gave 215° 30'. The latitude, by ſeveral ſextants, was determined to be 27°54'. Since ſeeing the land in the morning, we had run eleven leagucs; and had approached it ſufficiently near to perceive, that all we had at firſt ſeen was united. It now bore, by compaſs, from N. 20 E. to N. 43 E. about five leagues diſtant, with a ſmall iſland lying off its eaſtern fide N. 45 E. - Affifted by a gentle S. E. gale, with fine plea- fant weather, at three in the afternoon we were within about a league of the ſhore; yet no bot- tom was to be gained at the depth of 180 fa- thoms. Several canoes came off to the ſhip, and all means were uſed to invite them on board. They declined our entreatics, but ſeemed very ſolicitous that we ſhould accept their invitations to land : which they ſignificq by waving their paddles towards the coaſt, and by deſiring us, in the language of the Great South-Sea nation, to go nearer to the ſhore. We bore away with that intent, but ſoon again brought to, on obſerving that two or three canoes were paddºing in great haſte 1791.] Round the world. 2 11 haſte towards the ſhip. After ſome perſuaſion, four men in one of the canoes came near enough to receive ſome preſents, which ſeemed to pleaſe them exceedingly; and though their countrymen appeared to rebuke them for their raſhneſs, the example was ſhortly followed by ſeveral others. It was not, however, without ſhewing every de- monſtration of friendſhip, that any could be pre- vailed upon to come on board, until at length, the man who had brought about this intercourſe ſeemed determined to eſtabliſh it, by complying with our deſires. On his entering the ſhip, he trembled and was much agitated; apprehenſion; aſtoniſhment, and admiration, equally appearing at the ſame inſtant ; and though, on his being made welcome after the uſual faſhion, and pre- ſented with a ſmall iron adz, his countenance became more ſerene and cheerful, yet he ſtill ap- peared in a ſtate of great anxiety. He ſoon com- municated his reception and treatment to his ſur- rounding countrymen; and we ſhortly had as many viſitors as it was pleaſant to entertain. They all ſeemed perfectly well acquainted with the uſes to which they could apply iron, and how to eſtimate its value amongſt themſelves; as alſo the manner in which it was regarded by Euro- peans. They made no ſcruple, even with ſome force, to take articles of iron out of our hands; and, in lieu of them, with great courteſy and ad- ; O 2 dreſs 2 IQ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEc. dreſs preſented, in return, ſome few fiſh, fiſhing- hooks, lines, and other trifles, which they ſecnned to wiſh ſhould be accepted as preſents, and not received in exchange. Looking-glaſſes, beads, and other trinkets of little importance, at firſt attracted their attention, and were gladly accept- ed; but no ſooner did they diſcover that articles made of iron were common amongſt us, than they refuſed all other preſents, and wanted to barter every other gift for iron. I could not prevail on any of them to accept a few medals. Their viſit ſeemed prompted only by curioſity, as they were completely unarmed, and brought with them (except the few fiſh, &c.) neither ar- ticles of food, nor manufacture. A few ſpears, and a club or two, were ſeen in one or two of the ca- noes only; two or three indifferent ſlings for ftones were alſo noticed; with which they parted without the leaſt reluctance. We lay to until five o'clock in the hope of obtaining the name of this iſland, or of any other which might exiſt in its neighbourhood. Theſe people were evidently of the Grcat South-Sea nation ; ſpeaking, with ſome little difference of dialečt, the ſame language; and reſembling the Friendly iſlanders, more than the inhabitants of any other country. On this occaſion, Towereroo the Sandwich iſlander was of little aſſiſtance; having been taken at an early period from home, - - and 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 2 : 3 and having been long abſent, he had ſo much for- gotten his mother tongue, as to be ſcarcely able to underſtand the language of theſe people better than ourſelves. Two or three of them remained on board nearly an hour; but ſo unfixed and un- ſteady was their attention, which wandered from objećt to objećt, that it was impoſſible to gain from them any information. Their anſwers to almoſt every queſtion were in the affirmative; and our enquiries as to the name of their iſland, 8&c. were continually interrupted by inceſſant in- vitations to go on ſhore. At length, I had reaſon to believe the name of the iſland was Oparo; and that of their chief Korie. Although I could not poſitively determine that theſe names were cor- rećtly aſcertained, yet as there was a probability of their being ſo, I diſtinguiſhed the iſland by the name of OPA Ro, until it might be found more properly entitled to another. By ſix in the evening, we had nearly ſeen round the iſland, which is of little extent; and not chooſing to loſe the advantage of a fine ſouthwardly wind, we proceeded to the N. N. W. under all the ſail we could ſpread. - z As it was not my intention to ſtop at Oparo, ino delay was occaſioned by examining for an- chorage, which probably may be found on both ſides of its N. W. point. To the ſouthward of that point is a ſmall bay with a ſtony beach, O 3 through 214 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEc. through which there was the appearance of a conſiderable ſtream of water falling into the ſea. The ſhores in moſt parts were ſo perfectly ſmooth, that landing might have been effected without the leaſt difficulty. Round to the north of that point is another ſmall bay, in which are a ſmall iſlet and ſome rocks; behind theſe, the ſhore may be approached with great eaſe at any time, Indeed, there was not any part of the iſland which appeared to have been acted upon by heavy vio- lent ſurfs, as the verdure in many places reached to the water's edge. The ſouth extremity of the iſland appeared in ſome points of view to form a right angle, without the leaſt interruption in the ſides; about half a mile to the ſouth-eaſt is a ſmall detached iſlet; the ſhores are interſperſed with ſandy beaches; its greateſt extent, which is in a N. 18W. and S. 18 E. direétion, is about ſix miles and a half, and it may poſſibly be about eighteen miles in circuit. This iſland is fituated in the latitude of 27° 36'; and, by our lunar ob- ſervations of the two preceding days reduced to its centre by the chronometer, is in longitude” 215° 58' 28"; the mean of the variation was 5° 40° eaſtwardly. Its principal charaćter is a cluſter of high craggy mountains, forming in ſeveral places, moſt romantic pinnacles, with perpendicular cliffs t * Vidc Aſtronomical obſervations at Otaheite. * nearly i.791.] -ROUND THE WORLD. 2 5 nearly from their ſummits to the ſea; the vacan- cies between the mountains would more probably be termcd chaſms than vallies, in which there was no great appearance of plenty, fertility or cultivation; they were chiefly clothed with ſhrubs and dwarf trees. Neither the plantation, nor other ſpontaneous vegetable productions common to the inhabited tropical iſlands, preſented them- ſelves. The tops of ſix of the higheſt hills bore the appearance of fortified places, reſembling re- doubts; having a ſort of block houſe, in the ſhape of an Engliſh glaſs houſe, in the centre of each, with rows of palliſadoes a conſiderable way down the ſides of the hills, nearly at equal diſtances. Theſe, overhanging, ſeemed intended for ad- vanced works, and apparently capable of defend- ing the citadel by a few againſt a numerous hoſt of affailants. On all of them we noticed people, g about. What we conſidered as block houſes, from their great as if on duty, conſtantly movin ſimilarity in appearance to that ſort of building, were ſufficiently large to lodge a conſiderable number of perſons, and were the only habitations we ſaw. Yet from the nuinbcr of canoes that in fo ſhort.a time aſſembled around us, it is natural to conclude that the inhabitants are very fre- quently afloat, and to infer from this circum- iſtance that the ſhores, and not thoſe fortified hills which appeared to be in the center of the O 4 iſland, 9, 16 A Voy AGE OF DISCOVERY [D Ec. iſland, would be preferred for their general reſi- dence. We ſaw about thirty double and ſingle canoes, though moſt of them were of the double ſort: the ſingle canoes were ſupported by an outrigger on one ſide, and all built much after the faſhion of the Society Iſlands, without having their very high ſterns, though the ſterns of ſome of theſe were conſiderably elevated ; and their bows were not without ſome little ornament. They were very neatly conſtructed, though the narroweſt canoes I ever ſaw. When it is con- ſidered that the builders of them are nearly deſti- tute of iron, and poſſeſſed of very few imple- ments of that valuable metal; and when the miſerable tools they have generally recourſe to for ſuch operations are regarded, the mind is filled with admiration at their ingenuity, and perſever- ing induſtry. The iſland did not appear to afford any large timber; the broadeſt planks of which the canoes were made, not exceeding twelve inches, confirmed us in this opinion, as they were probably cut out of the largeſt trees. Some of the ſtouteſt double canoes accommodated from twenty-five to thirty men, of whom, on a mode- rate computation, three hundred were ſuppoſed to have been ſeen near the ſhip. Theſe were all adults, and apparently none exceeding a middle- age; ſo that the total number of inhabitants on the iſland can hardly be eſtimatcd at leſs than - - fifteen 1701.] ROUND THE WORLD. 2 17 fifteen hundred. In this reſpect it muſt be con- ſidered prolific, notwithſtanding its uncultivated appearance. The natives, however, appeared to be exceedingly well fed, of middling ſtature, ex- tremely well made ; and in general, their coun- tenances were open, cheerful, and ſtrongly mark- ed with indications of hoſpitality. They were all, to a man, very ſolicitous that ſome of us ſhould accompany them to the ſhore; and thoſe who laſt quitted the ſhip, endeavoured with all their powers of perſuaſion, and ſome efforts of com- pulſion, to effect their purpoſe. On their depar- ture they took hold of the hand of every onc near them, with a view to get them into their canoe. They all had their hair cut ſhort; and, excepting a wreath made of a broad long-leaved green plant, worn by ſome about the waiſt, they were intirely without clothing. Although the cuſtom of ta- towing prevails ſo generally with all the iſlanders of this ocean, theſe people were deſtitute of any ſuch marks. --- Independent of the protection their fortified retreats may afford, it did not appear that they were ſubject to much hoſtility, as ſcarcely any ſcars from wounds or other marks of violence were obſerved on their bodies. Their elevated fortified places (for certainly they had every ap- pearance of being ſuch) led ſome of us to con- jećture, that they were frequently annoyed by troubleſome º i 8 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEc. troubleſome neighbours from ſome other iſlands not far diſtant. But, as the canoes we ſaw were not even furniſhed with ſails, nor had any ap- pearance of having been ever equipped for an ex- pedition beyond their own coaſt, it may reaſon- ably be inferred, that they were not accuſtomed to voyages of any length. Yet, on the other hand, when the ſmall extent of their iſland is taken into conſideration, it is hard to reconcile that it is not the fear of foreign enemies, but the apprehenſion of domeſtic inſurreótion, that has induced the laborious conſtruction of their forti- fied retreats; and as to the S. E. of this iſland there is an extenſive ſpace in the ocean hitherto but little frequented; it is not improbable that forme iſlands may exiſt there, the inhabitants of which may occaſionally make unfricndly viſits to theſe people. - Leaving Oparo, we had pleaſant weather with a gentle breeze from the S. E. At eight in the - morning of Friday the 23d, the iſland was ſtill viſible from the deck, bearing by compaſs S. S. E. : E. at the diſtance of 18 leagues. The breeze between E. and S. E. carried us rapidly to the N. N. W. and brought us on the evening of Sun- day the 25th into the vicinity of ſome low iſlands diſcovered by Captain Carteret, and named the Duke of Glouceſter's iſlands. The evening was dark and gloomy, and not chooſing to paſs the ſpot 1791.] Roux D THE WORLD. 219 ſpot aſſigned to them in the night, we continued to make ſhort trips under our top-ſails, until day- light; after which we again reſumed our courſe. Our latitude at noon of Monday the 20th was 19° 58', longitude 21 1° 40', which was 9' further ſouth, and 23% further weſt, than was ſhewn by the log. At about 1° 33' to the weſt of the ſitua- tion of the Duke of Glouceſter's iſlands accord- ing to Captain Carteret, we paſſed their latitude, without ſeeing any appearance of land. Having now a freſh gale at eaſt, we entertained the pleaſ- ing hope of reaching Otaheite the next day; this flattering proſpect was of ſhort duration. To- wards the evening, the wind veered to the N. E. and its violence obliged us to cloſe reef the top- ſails. The gale was attended with very heavy ſqualls, and a torrent of rain continued almoſt without intermiſſion until the evening of Wed- neſday the 28th, when it ceaſed, and the wind ſtill de N. E. became moderate. By ſtanding on to the N. N. W. day-light the next morning, Thurſday the 29th, preſented us with a view of Matavai, or Oſnaburgh iſland, at the diſtance of feven or cight leagues, bearing by compaſs N. E. by E. Our courſe was immediately ſhaped for Otah.cite, the ſouth point of which was viſible by cleven o'clock, bearing by compaſs S. 70W. eight or nine leagues diſtant. The wind coming to the north prevented our reaching Matavai bay, and obliged 22 O A VOYAGE OF DISCOV ERY D E C, obliged us to ply to windward during the night. In the morning of Friday the 30th, with a gentle breeze from the N. E. we ſtood for Matavai under all the ſail we could ſpread. About eight o'clock, a canoe came alongſide with two pigs and ſome vegetables; a preſent from a ſiſter of Otoo, reſiding in that part of the iſland of which we were then abreaſt. The natives informed me that we had been expected, and that they had been looking out for us two days, in conſequence of information they ſaid they had received from 3I). Engliſh veſſel, then at anchor in Matavai bay; and their deſcription of her being perfectly intel- ligible, I did not heſitate to believe it was the Chatham, of which we ſhortly experienced the happineſs of being convinced. Mr. Broughton ſoon viſited us, and brought with him an early and acceptable ſupply of the excellent produćtions of this fertile country. About ten, we anchored in Matavai bay. Our mutual gratulations on meeting were extremely heightened, by receiving and communicating the happy tidings, that every individual compoſing the ſociety of each veſſel was in a moſt perſe&t ſtate of health. Mr. Brough- ton had, ſince his arrival, received repeated marks of friendſhip and attention from the good people of the iſland. Having deemed it expedient to eſtabliſh the following regulations on board the Diſcovery, I delivered a copy of them to Mr. Broughton, 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 22 Broughton, and directed that the rules might be ſtrićtly obſerved and attended to on board the Chatham; after which, Mr. Broughton preſented me with a narrative of his proceedings during the time of our ſeparation. RULEs and ORDERs for the guidance and conduct of all perſons in, or belonging to his Majeſty's ſloop Diſcovery and Chatham tender; enjoined to be moſt ſtrićtly obſerved in all intercourſe with the natives of the ſeveral South-Sea iſlands. The principal, and indeed ſole deſign, of the Diſcovery and Chatham calling at the iſlands in the Pacific Ocean, being to acquire ſuch refreſh- ments as thoſe iſlands may be found to afford; and as theſe refreſhments are to be purchaſed with articles which Europeans eſteem of little value;—if each individual be permitted to make ſuch bargains as he may think proper, not only the value of theſe articles will ſoon be reduced in the eſtimation of the Indians, but, until a pro- per and good underſtanding be eſtabliſhed be- tween the natives of the different iſlands, and our- ſelves, it may ſubject us to ſuch diſturbances as may be attended with the moſt fatal conſe- quences. And as a due proportion of time will be allowed before the veſſels depart from any iſland, (circumſtances admitting thereof) for the providing 222 A voy Age of Discovery [bec: providing ſuch articles of curioſity, &c. as any perſon may be inclined and able to purchaſe: It is, firſt, ſtrictly cnjoined, that no officer, ſeaman, or other perſon, in ſuch commerce with the Indians, do give ſuch articles of value, for any article of curioſity, as may tend hereafter to de- preciate the value of iron, beads, &c. &c. - Secondly, That every fair means be uſed to cultivate a friendſhip with the different Indians, and on all occaſions to treat them with every de- gree of kindneſs and humanity. Thirdly, As proper perſons will be appointed by the reſpective commanders to trade with the natives, for the neceſſary proviſions and refreſh- ments; it is ſtrićtly enjoined that no officer, ſea- man, or other perſon, excepting him or them ſo appointed, do on any pretence, preſume to trade, or offer to trade, for any article whatever, until permiſſion ſhall have been granted for ſo doing. Fourthly, Every perſon employed on ſhore, on any duty whatever, is ſtrićtly to attend to the ſame: and if it ſhould appear that by neglect, any of the arms, working tools, boats furniture, or other matters committed to the charge of one or more perſons, be loſt, or ſuffered to be ſtolen, the full value of the ſame will be charged againſt his, or their wages, and he or they will likewiſe ſuffer ſuch other puniſhment, as the nature of the offence may deſerve ; and as the additional pay, 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 223 pay, and the emoluments of the artificers, ſerving in his Majeſty's navy, is for their encouragement, and the diligent performance of their duty in their reſpective trades or occupations, and for providing themſelves with the requiſite working tools, all ſuch implements or tools belonging to the ſeveral artificers of the two veſſels, are by their reſpective owners to be carefully preſerved, that they may be always able to perform the duties of their reſpective departments; and ſhould any one be hardy enough to fail in his obedience to this order, he ſhall be diſrated from his em- ployment during the continuance of the voyage, and ſuffer ſuch other puniſhment as the crime may deſerve. Laſtly, The ſame penalty will be inflićted on every perſon, who ſhall be found to embezzle, or be concerned in embezzling, or offering to trade with, any part of the ſhips or boats ſtores, furni- ture, &c. &c. be theſe of what nature ſoever. Given on board his Majeſty's ſloop Diſco- very, at ſea, the 25th of December, 1791. (Signed) GEORGE VANCOUVER. CHAPTER 224 A VOYAGE of DIS covegy [D Ec. CHAPTER V. Mr. Broughton's Narrative, from the Time of his Separation, to his being joined by the Diſcovery at Otaheite; with ſome Account of Chatham Iſland, and other Iſlands diſcovered on his Paſ: Jäge. HE wood we had received in Facile harbour, - (on Tueſday the 22d of November) with the ſpruce-beer and water upon deck, had brought the veſſel ſo much by the head, that, together with the high ſea now running, obliged us to de- viate from our ſouthwardly courſe and keep be- fore the ſtorm, which raged with great violence; and notwithſtanding every precaution a wave ſtruck our ſtern, about ſix o'clock on Wedneſday morning, waſhed away the jolly boat, and ſat us all afloat upon deck. Having, about nine, run by eſtimation to the ſouth of the Traps, to pre- vent our ſhipping ſo much water, I brought to, under a reefed tryſail, and fore ſtayſail. By noon, the gale had conſiderably abated, the ſea ſubſided, and the horizon became tolerably clear; but the Diſcovery was not to be ſeen in any direction. After duly weighing all circumſtances ſince the CO II)}Y] CI) CC- 1791.] Round the world. 225 commencement of the gale, our ſeparation from the Diſcovery appeared now complete; and the chance of our meeting again until our arrival at our next rendezvous in Otaheite, ſeemed little in our favor. About two in the afternoon, land was diſ- covered from the deck, appearing like a high iſland, bearing by compaſs S. S. E. three or four leagues diſtant; about an hour afterwards, we had ſight of more land lying to the ſouthward and detached from the former ; our utmoſt en- deavours were uſed to weather this land, but finding it impracticable, we bore up for a paſſage between the high iſland and the detached land, which was found to be compoſed of a cluſter of ſmall iſlets and rocks, greater in extent though about the height of the Needles; their tops or ridges are much broken; and from the high iſland bore by compaſs N. E. and S. W. forming a paſſage three miles wide; about one third of the paſſage over, on the ſouthern ſide, lies a ſmall black rock juſt above water; on all theſe rocks and iſlets the ſea broke with great violence. In this paſſage we had a confuſed irregular ſwell, with the appearance of broken water; large bunches of ſea-weed were obſerved, and the whole ſurface was covered with birds of a blackiſh colour. The N. E. part of the iſland in the even- ing, bore by compaſs north ; the S. W. part, N. Vol. I. P W, by QQ6 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEc. W. by N. ; the paſſage N. W.; and the rocky iſlets from N. W. by W. to W. by N. between two and three leagues diſtant: in this ſituation we had no bottom at the depth of 60 and 80 fa- thoms. Some parts of the iſland preſented a very barren appearance, not unlike the S. W. fide of Portland, compoſed of whitiſh rocky cliffs. The rocky iſlets are five in number, ſome of which wore a pyramidical form. On account of the hazineſs in the atmoſphere, the north-eaſt- 'ernmoſt part of the iſland was ſeen ſo very indiſ- tinétly, that its extent could not be aſcertained. We had no reaſon to ſuppoſe it inhabited, and its deſolate appearance made that very impro- bable. This iſland, in honor of Captain Knight of the navy, I named KNIGHT's Islan D. Its ſouth point lies in the latitude of 48° 15', longi- tude 166° 44', aſcertained by the watch the laſt time the bearings were taken, allowing its error to be 30' weſt, as determined at Duſky bay. Knight's iſland, ſo far as we could ſee of its ex- tent, and the rocky iſlets, lie in the direction of N. E. by E. E. and S.W. by W. A W. allow- ing a point and a half variation eaſt: they extend about four leagues. , In the morning of Thurſday the 24th, with a fine weſtwardly gale, we altered our courſe and made all ſail to the N. E. The wind which varied in point of force, veered gradually round by 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 227 by the north. On Saturday the 20th our lati- tude was 40°43', longitude 173° 30'. In the evening the wind ſhifted ſuddenly to the S. W. and blew with ſuch violence, that ſtriking our topgallant maſts and yards became neceſſary. A remarkably heavy following ſea, kept the veſ- ſel conſtantly under water ; but the gale was at- tended with clear weather. At noon on Sunday the 27th our latitude by obſervation was 45°54', longitude by account 176° 13'. The gale now moderated, which permitted us again to reſume our N. E. courſe, with a fine breeze between weſt and N. W. Early in the morning of Mon- day the 29th, low land was diſcovered, bearing by compaſs from N. E. to E. N. E.; and being then in 40 fathoms water, we brought to until day-break. About four o'clock we had 38 fa- thoms, bottom of ſand and broken ſhells, when the N. W. point of this land, which is low, bore by compaſs S. 7 E. about three leagues diſtant, and which, after the man who fortunately ſaw it from the fore yard, I named Point ALIson; a re- markably rugged rocky mountain that obtained the name of MoUNT PATTERson S. 60 E.; a ſugar-loaf hill S. 84 E.; and the extreme point to the eaſtward, which formed an abrupt cape, N. 75 E. Two iſlands N. 3 E. to N. 5 E. two or three leagues diſtant. The interior land was of a moderate height, riſing gradually, and form- P 2 ing QºS A voy AGB of Discovery [DEC. ing ſeveral peaked hills, which at a diſtance have the appearance of iſlands. From point Aliſon to mount Patterſon the ſhore is low, and covered with wood; from thence to the above cape was a continued white beach, on which ſome ſandy -cliffs, and black rocks were interſperſed, appa- rently detached from the ſhore. To the eaſtward of theſe rocks, between them and a flat projećt- ing point, the land ſeemed to form a bay open to the weſtward. From this point to the above cape, a diſtance of about two miles, the cliffs are covered with wood and coarſe graſs. Theſe cliffs are of moderate height, compoſed of a red- diſh clay, mixed with black rocks. Several large black rocks lie off point Aliſon, and the cape, ex- tending to a little diſtance; and as we paſſed within about half a mile of the ſhore, the depth of water was 14 fathoms, broken ſhells, and ſandy bottom. This cape forms a conſpicuous head- land, and is the northernmoſt part of the iſland; I called it CAPE You N G ; it lies in latitude 43° 48', longitude 183° 2'. The above two iſlands lie very near each other; to the eaſtward of them lies a ſmall rock, apparently connected, though at no great diſtance, by a reef; another rock ſomewhat larger is ſituated between them. They are of no great height; flat top with perpendi- cular ſides, compoſed intirely, of rocks, and much frequented by birds of different kinds. Theſe, 3ri - - - which 1791.] Tºotſ ND THE WORLD. 229 which from their reſemblance to each other, I called THE Two SISTERs, are in latitude 43°41’, longitude 182° 49'; and bear, by compaſs, from Cape Young N. 50 W. four leagues diſtant. We iteered from cape Young E. by N. keeping be- tween two and three miles from the coaſt, with regular ſoundings from 25 to 22 fathoms. The ſhore is a continued white ſandy beach, on which the ſurf ran very high. Some high land, riſing gradually from the beach and covered with wood, extends about four miles to the eaſtward of the cape. After paſſing this land, we opened the ſeveral hills over the low land we had ſeen in the morning, and could diſcern that many of them were covered like our heaths in England, but deſtitute of trees. The woods in ſome ſpots had the appearance of being cleared, and in ſe- veral places between the hills ſmoke was obſerved. The beach is interrupted at unequal diſtances by projećting rocky points covered with wood. Over the banks of ſand were ſeen a range of retired hills at a conſiderable diſtance, in the direétion of the coaſt. After ſailing about 10 leagues, we came abreaſt of a ſmall ſandy bay. Water was ſeen over the beach, and the country had the appearance of being very pleaſant. With our glaſſes we perceived ſome people hauling up a canoe, and ſeveral others behind the rocks in the bay. Fearful that ſo good an opportunity might P 3 In Ot º3O A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [Dec. not occur for acquiring ſome knowledge of the inhabitants, I worked up into the bay, which we had paſſed before the natives were diſcovered. We came to an anchor about a mile from the ſhore in 20 fathom water, ſandy and rocky bot- tom. The eaſtern point by compaſs bore N. 78 E.; cape Young W. 12 S.; the larboard point of the bay S. E.; the eaſtern point from our an- chorage proved to be the termination of the iſland, to which I gave the name of Point MUN- NINGs. - - Accompanied by Mr. Johnſton the maſter, and one of the mates, we proceeded towards the ſhore in the cutter. The rocks projećt a little at each extremity of the bay; within them we found ſmooth water, and landed upon the rocks on the ſtarboard ſhore, where we had firſt perceived the inhabitants; who were, at this time, on the op- poſite ſide, but ſeeing us examining their canoes, they haſtily ran round the bay; on which we re- tired to the boat, to wait their arrival. As they approached they made much noiſe, and having ſoon joined us, we entered into a converſation by figns, geſtures, and ſpeech, without underſtand- ing what each other meant. We preſented them with ſeveral articles, which they received with great eagerneſs, and ſeemed pleaſed with what- ever was given them; but would make no ex- changes. Yet as we had reaſon to believe they Were 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 231 were very ſolicitous that we ſhould land, Mr. Sheriff, leaving his arms in the boat, went on ſhore; but he ſeemed to excite the attention of two or three of them only, who attended him towards the canoes on the beach, whilſt the reſt, amounting to forty or thereabouts, remained on the rocks talking with us, and whenever the boat backed in, to deliver them any thing, they made no ſcruple of attempting to take whatever came within their reach. Having repeatedly beckoned us to follow them round to where their habitations were ſuppoſed to be, as ſoon as Mr. Sheriff returned, we proceeded to comply with their wiſhes. They had been very curious in their examination of Mr. Sheriff's perſon, and ſeemed very deſirous of keeping him, as they fre- quently pulled him towards the wood, where we imagined ſome of them reſided. On meet- ing them on the other ſide, they ſeated them- ſelves on the beach, and ſeemed very anxious to receive us on ſhore; but as all our intreaties were ineffectual in obtaining any thing in return for our preſents, perceiving many of them to be armed with long ſpears, and the ſituation being unfavorable to us, in caſe they ſhould be diſpoſed to treat us with hoſtility, we did not think it prudent to venture amongſt them; and finding our negociation was not likely to be attended with ſucceſs, we took our leave; but in our way P 4 off, 232 A voyage of Discovery [DEc. off, as the natives remained quietly where we left them, I thought it a good opportunity to land once more and take another view of their canoes. Having again reached the ſhore without any interruption, we diſplayed the Union flag, turned a turf, and took poſſeſſion of the iſland; which I named CHATHAM IsLAND, (in honor of the Earl of Chatham,) in the name of His Majeſty King George the Third; under the pre- ſumption of our being the firſt diſcoverers. After drinking his Majeſty's health, I nailed a piece of lead to a tree near the beach, on which was in- ſcribed, His Britannick Majeſty's Brig Chatham, Lieutenant William Robert Broughton com- mander, the 29th November, 1791. And in a bottle ſecreted near the tree, was depoſited an inſcription in Latin to the ſame effect. The canoes we examined were more in form of a ſmall hand-barrow without legs, than any other thing to which they can be compared, de- creaſing in width from the after to the fore part. They were made of a light ſubſtance reſembling bamboo, though not hollow, placed fore and aft on each ſide, and ſecured together by pieces of the ſame wood, up and down, very neatly faſ- tened with the fibres of ſome plant in the man- ner of baſket work. Their bottoms flat and conſtructed in the ſame way, were two feet deep and eighteen inches in breadth; the openings of * * • , - * ~ , t * - - the 1791.] Round THE world. 233 the ſeams on the inſide and bottoms were ſtuffed with long ſea weed; their ſides meet not abaft, nor forward, their extreme breadth aft is three, and forward, two feet; length eight and nine feet. In the ſtern is a ſeat very neatly made of the ſame material ; which is moveable. They appeared calculated alone for fiſhing amongſt the rocks near the ſhore; were capable of carrying two or three perſons, and were ſo light that two men could convey them any where with eaſe, and one could haul them into ſafety on the beach. Their grapnels were ſtones, and the ropes to which theſe were made faſt, were formed of mat- ting, worked up in a ſimilar way with that which is called French finnet. The paddles were of hard wood, the blades very broad, and gradually increaſing from the handle. The nets of theſe iſlanders were very ingeniouſly made, terminating in a cod or purſe ; the mouth was kept open by a rim of ſix feet in diameter, made from wood of the ſupple jack kind; the length from eight to ten feet, tapered gradually to one; they were cloſely made, and from the center attachcd to the rim by cords, was fixed a line for hauling them up. They were made of fine hemp, two ftrands twiſted and knotted like a reef knot, and ſecmingly very ſtrong. They had alſo ſcoop nets, made of the bark or fibres of ſome tree or plant, without any preparation, and netted in equal meſhes. 234 A VOYAGE OF ID ISCOVERY [oct. meſhes. We penetrated a little into the woods, but did not find any huts, or houſes, though large quantities of ſhells, and places where fires had been made, were obſerved. t The woods afforded a delightful ſhade, and being clear of undergrowth, were in many places formed into arbours, by bending the branches when young, and cloſing them round with ſmaller trees. Theſe appeared to have been ſlept in very lately. The trees of which the woods are com- poſed grow in a moſt luxuriant manner, clear of ſmall branches to a conſiderable height; and conſiſt of ſeveral ſorts, ſome of which, the leaf in particular, was like the laurel. Another ſort was jointed like the vine, but we did not ſee one that could be dignified by the appellation of a timber tree. On our return, a few of the na- tives were ſeen approaching us, and as they ap- peared peaceably diſpoſed, we joined the firſt party, and ſaluted each other by meeting noſes, according to the New Zealand faſhion. They were preſented with ſome trinkets, but ſeemed to entertain not the leaſt idea of barter, or of obligation to make the leaſt return, as we could not prevail upon them to part with any thing excepting one ſpear of very rude workmanſhip. On making a bargain with him who had parted with the ſpear, for his coat, or covering of ſea- bear ſkin, he was ſo delighted with the reflec- t1Oll 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 235 tion of his face in the looking glaſſes propoſed in exchange, that he ran away with them. Previ- ouſly to this, with a view to ſhew them the ſu- perior effect of our fire-arms, I gave them ſome birds which I had killed, and pointed out to them the cauſe of their death. On firing my gun they ſeemed much alarmed at its report; and all re- treated as we advanced towards them, excepting one old man, who maintained his ground ; and preſenting his ſpear ſide-ways, beat time with his feet; and as he ſeemed to notice us in a very threatening manner, I gave my fowling piece to one of our people, went up to him, ſhook him by the hand, and uſed every method I could deviſe to obtain his confidence. Obſerving ſomething in his hand rolled carefully up in a mat, I was deſirous of looking at it, upon which he gave it to another, who walked away with it; but who did not prevent my ſeeing that it contained ſtones faſhioned like the Patoo Patoes of New Zealand. They ſeemed very anxious to get my gun and ſhot belt, and frequently exclaimed Toohata. Some of their ſpears were ten feet, others about ſix feet in length, one or two of which were new, with carved work towards the handle; whenever theſe were pointed to, they were immediately given to thoſe behind, as if afraid of our taking them by force. Finding little was to be procured or learned here, we made ſigns of going to their ſuppoſed 236 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEc. ſuppoſed habitations, and endeavoured to make them underſtand we needed ſomething to eat and drink. As they continued very friendly, three men armed attended Mr. Johnſton and myſelf along the water-ſide; the boat with four hands keeping cloſe by the ſhore as we walked, leſt we might require ſupport, or it ſhould be neceſſary to retreat. Every one had orders to be prepared, but on no account to make uſe of their arms, until I ſhould give direétions, which, at this time, I had not the moſt diſtant idea would become neceſſary. When our little party firſt ſat off, ſe- veral of them collečted large ſticks, which they ſwung over their heads, as if they had ſome in- tention of uſing them. He who had received the ſtones from the old man, had them now fixed, one at each end, to a large ſtick about two feet in length. Not liking theſe appearances, we had fome thoughts of embarking; but, on our ſud- denly facing about, they retired up the beach to a fire which ſome of them had juſt made. Mr. Johnſton followed them ſingly, but was not in time to diſcover the method by which it had been ſo quickly produced. His preſence ſeemed rather to diſpleaſe them, on which he returned, and we again proceeded along the beach, making ſigns of our intention to accompany them on the other fide of the bay. Fourteen only followed, the reſt remained at the fire. Thoſe who had - - not 1791 ..] ROUN1 THE WORLD. 237 not ſpears ſubſtituted the driftwood on the beach for their weapons; yet as our party conſiſted of nine, all well armed, we entertained no fear for our perſonal ſafety, eſpecially as every thing had been ſtudiouſly avoided that we imagined might give them offence, and the various preſents they had received had apparently purchaſed their good opinion and friendſhip, until now that we had reaſon to believe the contrary by their providing themſelves with bludgeons. Having walked about half round the bay we arrived at the ſpot behind which, from the maſt head, inland water had been ſeen. As we proceeded up the beach we found it to be a large ſheet of water, which took a weſtern direétion round a hill that pre- vented our ſeeing its extent. At the upper end of this lake, the country appeared very pleaſant, and level. The water ſeemed of a reddiſh colour and was brackiſh, which was moſt probably occa- fioned by the ſalt water oozing through the beach, which at this place is not more than twenty yards wide; or by its having ſome communica- tion with the ſea to the weſtward, which we did not perceive. We tried to explain to the natives who ſtill attended us, that the water was not fit to drink, and then returned to the ſea ſide; when, abreaſt of the boat, they became very cla- morous, talked extremely loud to each other, and divided ſo as nearly to ſurround us. A young II) ºlil 238 A voy AGE of Discovery [bec. man ſtrutted towards me in a very menacing at- titude; he diſtorted his perſon, turned up his eyes, made hideous faces, and created a wonderful fierceneſs in his appearance by his geſtures. On pointing my double-barrelled gun towards him he deſiſted. Their hoſtile intentions were now too evident to be miſtaken, and therefore, to avoid the neceſſity of reſorting to extremities, the boat was immediately ordered in to take us on board. During this interval, although we were ſtričtly on Our guard, they began their attack, and before the boat could get in, to avoid being knocked down I was reluctantly compelled to fire one barrel, which being loaded with ſmall ſhot, I was in hopes might intimidate without materially wounding them, and that we ſhould be ſuffered to embark without further moleſta- tion. Unfortunately, I was diſappointed in this hope. Mr. Johnſton received a blow upon his muſket with ſuch force from an unwieldy club, that it fell to the ground, but before his oppo- nent could pick it up, Mr. Johnſton had time to recover his poſition, and he was obliged to fire on the blow being again attempted. A marine and ſeaman near him, were, under ſimilar cir- cumſtances forced into the water, but not before they had alſo, juſtified alone by ſelf-preſervation, fired their pieces without orders. The gentle- man having charge of the boat ſeeing us much preſſed \ 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD, 23g \ preſſed by the natives, and obliged to retreat, fired at this inſtant alſo, on which they fled. I ordered the firing inſtantly to ceaſe, and was highly gratified to ſee them depart apparently unhurt. The happineſs I enjoyed in this reflec- tion was of ſhort duration, one man was diſco- vered to have fallen; and I am concerned to add, was found lifeleſs, a ball having broken his arm and paſſed through his heart. We immediately repaired towards the boat, but the ſurf not per- mitting her to come near enough, we were ſtill under the neceſſity of walking to the place from whence we had originally intended to embark. As we retired, we perceived one of the natives return from the woods, whither all had retreated, and placing himſelf by the deceaſed, he was diſ- tinétly heard in a ſort of diſmal howl to utter his lamentations. As we approached our firſt landing place we ſaw no ſigns of habitations, although women and children were ſuppoſed to have been looking at us from the woods, whilſt talking to the natives on our arrival. On tracing ſome of the foot- paths, nothing was diſcovered but great numbers. of ear ſhells, and receſſes formed in the ſame manner with a ſingle palliſade as thoſe ſeen on our firſt landing. We diſtributed amongſt the canoes the remaining part of our toys and trin- kets, to manifeſt our kind intentions towards them, 240 A voy AGE of Discovery [Decº them, and as ſome little atonement alſo for the injury, which, contrary to our inclinations, they had ſuſtained, in defending ourſelves againſt their unprovoked, unmerited hoſtility. In our way to the ſhip, we ſaw two natives running along the beach to the canoes, but on our arrival on board they were not diſcernible with our glaſſes. The men were of a middling ſize, ſome ſtout- ly made, well limbed and fleſhy; their hair, both of the head and beard, was black, and by ſome was worn long. The young men had it tied up in a knot on the crown of their heads, intermixed with black and white feathers. Some had their beards plucked out; their complexion and gene- ral colour is dark brown, with plain features, and in general bad teeth. Their ſkins were deſtitute of any marks, and they had the appearance of being cleanly in their perſons. Their dreſs was either a ſeal or bear-ſkin tied with ſinnet, inſide outwards, round their necks, which fell below their hips; or mats neatly made, tied in the ſame manner which covered their backs and ſhoulders. Some were naked, excepting a well woven matt of fine texture, which, being faſtened at each end by a ſtring round their waiſts, made a ſort of decent garment. We did not obſerve that their ears were bored, or that they wore any ornaments "about their perſons, excepting a few who had a ſort of necklace made of mother of pearl ſhells. , Several 1179.] ROUND THE WORL13. 241 Several of them had their fiſhing lines, made of the ſame ſort of hemp with their nets, faſtened round them; but we did not ſee any of their hooks. We noticed two or three old men, but they did not appear to have any power or autho- rity over the others. They ſeemed a chearful race, our converſation frequently cxciting violent burſts of laughter amongſt them. On our firſt landing their ſurprize and exclamations can hardly be imagined; they pointed to the ſun, and then to us, as if to aſk, whether we had come from thence. The not finding a ſingle habitation, led us to conſider this part of the iſland as a tempo- - rary reſidence of the inhabitants, poſibly for the purpoſe of procuring a ſupply of ſhell and other fiſh. The former, of different kinds, were here to be had in great abundance: claws of cray fiſh were found in their canoes; and as the birds about the ſhore were in great numbers, and flew about the natives as if never moleſted, it gave us reaſon to believe that the ſea furniſhed the prin- cipal means of their ſubſiſtence. Black ſea pies with red bills, black and white ſpotted curlews with yellow bills, large wood pigeons like thoſe at Duſky bay, a variety of ducks, ſmall ſand- larks, and ſand-pipers, were very numerous about the ſhores. - Theſe few obſervations conclude a brief narra- Vo L. I. Q `-, tive 242, A. V. O'YAGE OF DISCOVERY [Nov. tive of our viſit and tranſactions at Chatham iſland; and I have to lament that the hoſtility of its inhabitants rendered the melancholy fate that attended one of them unavoidable, and prevented our reſearches extending further than the beach, and the immediate entrance of the adjoining wood. On our return to the veſſel we got under weigh, with a freſh gale at S. W. About fix in the evening, on paſſing point Munnings, which is the N. E. extremity of the iſland, it was ſeen. to be a low peninſula, over which, from the maſt- head, was diſcovered more land to the ſouth- ward; but the weather became ſo very hazy, that it was impoſſible to diſcern, how far it extended in that direction. From the bay, which I called SKIRMISHE BAY, to point Munnings, the ſhore is low, rocky, and clothed with wood. Some rocks lie a little way off the point. The extent of the iſland in an eaſt and weſt direction, which is nearly the line of the coaſt, was now confidered. to be about twelve leagues, allowing 14° eaſt variation. The latitude of our anchoring place in Skirmiſh bay was 43° 49', and its longitude 183° 25'. At eight o'clock the extremities of the land bore from S. W. by S. to W. by S. five or ſix leagues diſtant. At day-break in the morning of Wedneſday the 30th, we made all ſail as uſual, • and 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 243 and purſued our way to the N. E. In the courſe of this day, we paſſed many patches of ſea weed, and ſaw ſome port Egmont hens and ſeveral oceanic birds. With pleaſant weather and a fine gale between the S. E. and S. W. quarters, we proceeded, without any thing occurring worthy of notice, until Saturday the 3d of December, when, in the afternoon, our latitude was 38° 52'; the mean reſult of eight ſets of lunar obſervations taken the two preceding days, and reduced by the watch, gave the longitude this day 192° 43' 33". The watch, by its rate, and error, as found at Duſky bay, ſhewed 192° 45' 37". The mean variation, by azimuths and amplitude, 11° 56' eaſtwardly. The watch and obſervations having agreed ſo well, little error is to be apprehended in the lon- gitude äffigned to Chatham iſland. Our pleaſant weather was of no long con- tinuance; on Tueſday the 6th, in the latitude of 35° 43', longitude 197° 20' towards evening it fell calm. A breeze next morning, Wedneſday the 7th, ſprang up at N. E. with which we ſteer- ed to the E. S. E. between which, and the N. N. W. the wind continued with hazy, rainy, foggy and very unpleaſant weather until Sunday the 11th, in latitude 36°53', longitude 206°: having been viſited by few oceanic birds. The wind now veered round by the weſt to the ſouth- . . . Q 2 ward, 244 A WOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [Dec. ward, and brought us tolerably pleaſant weather, with which, until Thurſday the 15th, we con- tinued to ſteer north by caſt; when, in latitude 30° 17', longitude 208°40', the wind again re- fumed its northern direction, varying a point or two on either ſide of north. The atmoſphere became dark, heavy, ſultry and gloomy; the clouds poured down torrents of rain accompa- nied with much lightning, thunder, and violent ſqualls, which obliged the crew to be conſtantly expoſed, until Tueſday the 20th ; when the wind changed to the ſouth, blew a moderate breeze, and we again had fine ſettled weather. Although every advantage had been taken which the winds afforded, during the laſt four days, we had not been able to ſhorten the diſ- tance from our deſtined port, more than ſix leagues; our latitude this day being 20° 8', lon- gitude 21 1° 55'. Shortly after noon, ſome ob- ſervations were procured for the longitude. The mean of four ſets of diſtances gave 214° 30' 18", the watch, 212° 13' 15". Although the watch was conſiderably to the weſtward of the hunar obſervations, yet in the laſt of five days, it made 1°19′ more eaſting than the log ſhewed. The wind continued between fouth, and E. S. E. with pleaſant weather; on Thurſday the 22d we were again enabled to obtain more obſervations for the longitude, when the mean of iž91.] I OUN 0 THIE WOR+, D . 2.45 of two ſets gave 2 13°53' 7", the watch 212° 43', the mean of theſe, and thoſe taken on Tueſday, reduced by the watch to this day, gave the mean reſult of the ſix ſets 2 39 5 1' 30", which was 1° 10' eaſt of the watch ; our latitude at this time was 25° 20'. At eight the next morning, land was ſeen from the maſt-head bearing, by compaſs, W. by S. an hour afterwards it was viſible from the deck bearing W. S. W. W. at the diſtance of about ten leagues. It proved to be a ſmall high iſland; its northern part formed an elevated hummock, from the fall of which the land continued level, and then gradually decreaſed to the other ex- treme point. The watch, with its error, gave the longitude, at the time the above bearings were taken, 21 1 0", sº a 213° 16', our 1 titude by eſtim tion at this time 23, 36′. The fun being within a few minutes of the zenith at noon, our obſervation was indifferent, and could by no means be de- pended upon. I did not think it proper, on the preſent occaſion, to give any name to this iſland. I had ſome reaſon to doubt the accuracy of our longitude. On our arrival at Otaheite I ſhould be enabled to determine whether this iſland might inot be Tobouai ſeen by Captain Cook, or the land ſuppoſed to have been ſeen to the ſouth- Q 3 eaſtward - 246 A W QYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEC eaſtward, whilſt the Reſolution was off that iſland. The wind principally between E. N. E. and S. E. blew very freſh, attended with ſqualls, a gloomy atmoſphere, and an almoſt inceſſant rain, until ſeven in the morning of Monday the 26th, when the weather clearing, gave us a view of Maitea or Oſnaburgh iſland; bearing, by com- paſs, E. S. E. diſtant only about ſix or eight leagues. We immediately ſteered for Otaheite, which was ſeen about eight bearing W. # N. The wind was now eaſtwardly, accompanied by ſhowers of rain. At noon, the land over point Venus bore weſt, diſtant ſeven or eight leagues. The latitude now obſerved (being the firſt time ſince the 23d) varying only 5’ from the dead reckoning, was 17°29', longitude 211° 45', by the watch 210° 30'. In the afternoon, the wind became ſouthwardly, with dark gloomy weather. Having reached, by five o'clock, within four or five miles of the ſhore, a little to the eaſtward of point Venus, ſome canoes came off, and brought ſome cocoa-nuts, and two ſmall hogs, which were inſtantly purchaſed. Towards ſun-ſet, the breeze died away, and it continued calm until midnight, when it again freſhened from the eaſt- ward; with which, under an eaſy ſail, we plied until the morning, when all our canvaſs was - ſpread 1791.] 1&OUND THE WORLD. 247 ſpread for Matavai bay. About eight o'clock we rounded the Dolphin bank in 2% fathoms water, and worked up into the bay. About nine we anchored in eight fathom, black muddy bottom; point Venus bearing by compaſs N. 15 E.; the Dolphin bank N. 70 W.; and One-Tree hill S. 31 W. This being the place of rendezvous appointed by Captain Vancouver, we experienced no ſmall degree of diſappointment on not finding the Diſcovery in port; and our ſolicitude for her welfare was greatly increaſed, when we ad- verted to her ſuperiority in ſailing, which had given us reaſon to believe her arrival would have preceded ours, at leaſt a week. We ſcarcely anchored, when the natives flocked around us in the moſt civil and friendly manner, bringing with them an amply ſupply of the different refreſhments their country afforded. Some trifling thefts being committed by ſome of Our numerous viſitors, we were under the neceſ- fity of obliging them to retire to their canoes alongſide, with which they complied in the greateſt good humour. The whole of the after- noon was a continued rain, as heavy as any one on board ever beheld, accompanied with a very ſevere tempeſt. On our firſt arrival, the whole of the ſhore was one uninterrupted beach ; but, towards evening, the torrents of rain which had fallen, cauſed an inundation of the river, which Q 4 broke Q48 A V ÖYAGE OF DISCOW ERY [Dec. broke its bank about half way, between point Venus and One-Trec hill; and through the breach an immenſe quantity of water was diſ. charged, which brought with it a great number of large trees that were ſcattered in various direc- tions over the bay. A great concourſe of the inhabitants had aſſembled and beheld the bank give way, upon which they all ſhouted, ſeemingly with acclamations of great joy; for had not this event taken place, their houſes and plantations would probably have been much incommoded by the overflowing of the river. Our cutter was moored alongſide. In the courſe of the night one of the trees drifted athwart her, broke the iron chain with which ſhe was ſecured, ſtove in her broadſide and ſtern; and, on her filling, the furniture was waſhed away. This circumſtance, little to the credit of the gentlemen who had the watch on deck, was not diſcovered until the morning of Wedneſday the 28th, when, after ſome hours ſearch in the launch, the party returned without finding the loſt materials. - From young Otoo, I received this morning a. preſent of two hogs, and ſome fruit. Otoo the elder, now ſtiled Pomurrey, we underſtood, was at Eimeo, whither the meſſengers requeſted we would ſend to acquaint him with our arrival, on which he would inſtantly to repair to Matavai, * His 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 249 His abſence, however, had produced not the leaſt inconvenience; for notwithſtanding we had not been viſited by any chief, yet the behaviour of the people was perfectly civil and friendly. They ſupplied us with as much proviſion as we could poſſibly uſe, on very reaſonable terms. The greater part of this day, and all the ſucceeding night, the tempeſt continued with unabated tor- rents of rain. On Thurſday morning the 20th I received from Oparre a very bountiful preſent, conſiſting of hogs and fruit, from young Otoo, with a meſſage to ſignify that he might be expected next day at Matavai. In the evening, the weather being a little more temperate, though the ſurf continued to run too high to admit of our approaching the beach in the bay, we landed at the back of point Venus, and were received by the natives with great cheerfulneſs and cordiality. They treated us with the utmoſt hoſpitality, and vied with each other to be foremoſt in friendly attentions. The wind having ſhifted to the eaſtward, the weather became ſerene and pleaſant; and being informed the next morning, (Friday the 30th) by ſome of the natives, that a ſhip was in fight, I repaired inſtantly on ſhore, and had the un- fpeakable pleaſure of perceiving it to be the Diſ. covery to the eaſtward, ſteering for the bay. About ºšO A Voy AGE OF D1scovery [pec. About ten o'clock, as ſhe hauled in between the reef and the Dolphin bank, I went on board to congratulate Captain Vancouver; and to inform him of our welfare and proceedings ſince our ſe- paration. s - It may not be improper to obſerve, that the {eparation of the two veſſels was occaſioned, as was firſt conjećtured, by circumances unavoidable, which occurred during a very heavy and violent ſtorm. As ſome recompence, however, for the anxiety attendant on loſing the company of our little conſort, we had to reflect, that, eventually, the gale had been the fortunate means of our making ſome additions to geography. The iſlands firſt diſcovered by the Chatham, and named Knight's iſland by Mr. Broughton, were the Snares, which we had paſſed in the Diſcovery a few hours before. As Mr. Brough- ton conſidered our means for aſcertaining their true poſition ſuperior to what he poſſeſſed, their poſitive ſituation as placed by us may be received as correót; but as the Chatham paſſed through them, the relative ſituation to each other, accord- ing to Mr. Broughton's, obſervations is to be pre- ferred. # The Diſcovery paſſed about twenty leagues to the north of Chatham iſland; as did Captain - Cook . 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 251 Cook in March 1777, who alſo paſſed, about the ſame diſtance to the ſouth of it, in June 1773: on all theſe occaſions, it was not obſerved, nor did we, in the Diſcovery, ſee the iſlands diſ- covered by the Chatham on the 23d of Decem- ber, lying more to the eaſtward than Tobouai, and in latitude 23°42', longitude 212° 49'. CHAPTER 252 A W.G.Y.AGE OF DISCOVERY [DEc. CHAPTER VI. }ºſit Otoo—Arrival of Pomurrey and Matooara Mahow—Arrival of Taow, Pomurrey's Father —Interview between Taow and his Sons—Sub- miſſion of Taow to Otoo—Entertainments at the £ncampment—Viſit of Poatatou—Death of Ma- now—Excluſion to Oparre. t DeY the time we had anchored, the ſhip was ſurrounded with canoes laden with the dif- ferent produćtions of the country. The natives, with every aſſurance of friendſhip, and with ex- preſſions of the greateſt joy at our arrival, were crowding on board. One or two amongſt them, although not principal chiefs, evidently aſſumed fone little authority, and were exceedingly ear- neſt that we ſhould not ſuffer the multitude to come on board, as that would be the beſt means to prevent thefts, and inſure that amity and good fellowſhip which they appeared very ſolicitous to eſtabliſh and ſupport. We complied with their advice, and found no difficulty in carrying it into execution. We had only to deſire they would return to their canoes, and they immedi- ately complied. I had the mortification of find- 1ng 1791.] ROU NE THE WORLD. 253 ing on inquiry, that moſt of the friends I had left here in the year 1777, both male and female, were dead. Otoo, with his father, brothers, and fiſters, Potatou, and his family, were the only chiefs of my old acquaintance that were now living. Otoo was not here ; nor did it appear that Otaheite was now the place of his reſidence, having retired to his newly acquired poſſeſſion Eimeo, or as the natives more commonly call that iſland MoREA, leaving his eldeſt ſon the ſupreme authority over this, and all the neigh- bouring iſlands. The young king had taken the name of Otoo, and my old friend that of Pomur- rey; having given up his name with his ſovereign juriſdićtion, though he ſtill ſeemed to retain his authority as regent. Mr. Broughton had received ſome preſents from Otoo, who being now arrived from Oparre, had ſent deſiring that gentleman would viſit him on ſhore at Matavai. I had re- ceived no invitation ; but, as ſome of the natives gave me to underſtand that my accompanying Mr. Broughton would be eſteemed a civility, I did not heſitate to comply, eſpecially as Mr. Broughton had prepared a preſent in ſo handſome a way, that I conſidered it a ſufficient Compli- ment to the young king from us both. As ſoon as the ſhip was ſecured, Mr. Whidbey and my- ſelf attended Mr. Broughton, with intention to fix on an eligible ſpot for our tents, and for tranſ- aćtin & 254 A VOYAGE bf Discovery [DEc. aćting our receſſary buſineſs on ſhore; and after- wards to pay our reſpects to his Otaheitean ma- jeſty. - The ſurf obliged us to row round the point near the mouth of the river; where we landed, and were received by the natives with every de- monſtration of regard. A meſſenger was in- ftantly diſpatched to inform the king of our ar- rival, and intended viſit. The ſtation of our tents on my former viſits to this country, was not likely, on the preſent occaſion, to anſwer our purpoſe; the beach was conſiderably waſhed away, and the ſand being removed from the coral rocks rendered the landing very unſafe. The ſurf had alſo broken into the river, and made it very ſalt. Theſe circumſtances induced me to fix on a ſituation about a quarter of a mile fur- ther along the beach, to the ſouthward. The meſſenger that had been diſpatched to inform Otoo of our landing and propoſed viſit, returned with a pig, and a plantain leaf, as a peace-offer- ing to me; accompanied by a ſpeech of congra- tulation on our arrival, and offers of whatever refreſhments the country afforded. This ſhort ceremony being finiſhed, we proceeded along the beach in expectation of meeting the young ſove- reign, until we arrived near to the place where the river had broken its banks. There we were direéted to halt, under the ſhade of a palm tree, 179t.] T&OUND THE WORLD. 255. tree, to which we ſcadily conſented, the weather being nearly calm, and exceſſively ſultry. After waiting a ſhort time, we were acquainted that the king, having ſome objection to croſs the river for the purpoſe of meeting ſtrangers, re- queſted we would go to him. A canoe was in waiting to take us over; and having walked about an hundred yards on the other ſide, the interview took place. We found Otoo to be a boy of about nine or ten years of age. He was carried on the fhoulders of a man, and was clothed in a piece of Engliſh red cloth, with ornaments of pigeons' feathers hanging over his ſhoulders. When we had approached within about eight paces, we were deſired to ſtop : the preſent we had brought was exhibited; and although its magnitude, and the value of the articles it contained, excited the admiration of the by-ftanders in the higheſt de- gree, it was regarded by this young monarch with an apparently ſtern and cool indifference. It was not immediately to be preſented; a certain pre- vious ceremony was neceſſary. Not conſidering myſelf ſufficiently maſter of the language, I ap- plied for aſſiſtance to an inferior chief named Moerree, (who had been uſeful to Mr. Broughton) to be my prompter. At firſt he uſed ſome pains, but not finding me ſo apt a ſcholar as he expect- , ed, he ſoon took the whole office upon himſelf. He anſwered for our peaceable and friendly in- tentions, 256 A voyage of discovery [Nov. tentions, and requeſted ſupplies of proviſions, and a pledge of good faith towards us, with as much confidence as if he had been intimately acquaint- ed with our wiſhes and deſigns. Our ſituation on this occaſion was ſimilar to that of his Otahei- tean majeſty, who condeſcended to ſay but a few words, a perſon by his ſide ſparing him that trouble by going through all the formal orations. A ratification of peace and mutual friendſhip being acknowledged on both ſides, and theſe ce- remonies concluded, which took up fifteen or ,” twenty minutes, the different European articles compoſing the preſent, were, with ſome little form, preſented to Otoo; and on his ſhaking hands with us, which he did very heartily, his counte- nance became immediately altered, and he re- ceived us with the greateſt cheerfulneſs and cor- diality. He informed me, that his father, my former acquaintance and friend, was at Morea, and requeſted I would ſend thither a boat for Thim; for, as the iſlanders were much accuſ- tomed to raiſe falſe reports, Pomurrey would not believe that I was arrived without ſeeing ſome of us, by whom he would be convinced. He alſo added, that if we ſhould ſail without ſeeing his father, he would not be only very much concern- ed, but very angry. This language being in the mouths of every one around us, and feeling a great deſire to ſee an old friend who had ever, condućted 1791.] f{OUN D THE WORLD. 257 condućted himſelf with propriety, and appeared firmly attached to our intereſt, I promiſed to comply with the young king's requeſt. The ſuffuſions of joy, and a readineſs to oblige, were evident in the countenances of all whom we met. Their inſtant compliance with all our re- queſts, and their eagerneſs to be foremoſt in per- forming any little friendly office, could not be obſerved without the moſt grateful emotions. Each of us was preſented with a quantity of cloth, a large hog, and ſome vegetables; after which we returned on board extremely well pleaſed with our viſit and reception. My original intention in calling here was for the ſole purpoſe of recruiting our water, and ob- taining a temporary ſupply of freſh proviſions; but on further conſideration I was convinced, that we ſhould not find any place this winter, where the neceſſary duties we had to perform be- fore we could proceed to the coaſt of America, would be ſo well done, or executed with ſo much eaſe and convenience, as in our preſent ſituation. A ſmall boat for the Chatham was to be built, and a great repair was neceſſary to her large cutter. The timber cut in Duſky bay wanted to be ſawn into planks for many other eſſential purpoſes. Theſe matters required immediate attention, and could not ſo properly be executed on board; be- fide which, the known accuracy with which the VoI., I. R ſituation 3.5S A VOYAGE of Discov ERY [DEC. ſituation of this iſland is ſettled, made me anxious to land our chronometers, for the purpoſe of aſcertaining their error, and rate of going, which had lately become ſomewhat equivocal. Theſe reaſons induced me to determine on giving the veſſels every equipment here they required, which would have the further convenience of ſhortening our viſit this ſeaſon at the Sandwich iſlands. Directions were therefore given, that the ſails ſhould be unbent, the topmaſts, &c. ſtruck, and that a thorough examination of the rigging and ſails ſhould take place. The Diſcovery's carpen- ters were ordered to aſſiſt thoſe of the Chatham, in building and repairing her boats, and ſawing out the plank: and all other neceſſary ſervices that circumſtances rendered pračticable, were, by the ſeveral artificers, put in a train of execution. Agreeably to the promiſe made to Otoo, Mr. Mudge, accompanied by Mr. Menzies, was on Saturday the 31ſt diſpatched to the iſland of Mo- rea for Pomurrey. Matuaro, who we were in- formed was, under Otoo, ſovercign of Huaheine, and who was now here on an Ereeoi party,’” un- dertook to be their pilot. As ſoon as the boat put off, the crowd about the ſhip becoming acquaint- ed with her errand, the news was ſpeedily carried with acclamations to the ſhore, and there re- ceived with great demonſtrations of gladncſs. * Wide Cook’s Voyages. * During 1792.] Round the world. 259 During the night, the ſwell in the bay had greatly increaſed, and conceiving we were nearer the Dolphin bank than was imagined on our ar- rival, we warped nearer in ſhore, and moored in 13 fathoms black ſand, and muddy bottom : One-Tree hill bearing by compaſs S. 26 W.; and point Venus N. 14 E. The ſurf breaking with great violence, had hitherto prevented our land- ing the camp party; but as I had been accuſ- tomed to ſee this place perfeółly ſmooth, I enter- tained no doubt that the bay would in a day or two reſume its uſual tranquillity. Sunday morning uſhered in the new year. The ſurf had in ſome meaſure ſubſided, though it ſtill broke with great violence on the ſhore; which induced me to make new year's day a holiday. Every one had as much freſh pork, and plum- pudding as he could make uſe of; and left in the voluptuous gratifications of Otaheite, we might forget our friends in old England, all hands were ſerved a double allowance of grog to drink the healths of their ſweethearts and friends at home. It is ſomewhat ſingular that the gunner of the Diſcovery was the only married man of the whole party. The weather becoming pleaſant on the morn- ing of Monday the 2d, the tents, obſervatory, &c. were ſent on ſhore. Theſe were conſtantly protected by a guard of marines, and cur field R 2 - pieces ; 26C) A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAR. pieces; which were very properly conſtrućted for our occaſions, and anſwered every expe&ted pur- poſe. Mr. Puget was charged with the encamp- ment, and Mr. Whidbey was particularly to at- tend the obſervatory. My attention and reſidence was divided between the ſhip and the ſhore. On pitching our tents, a great concourſe of the natives in the moſt friendly and orderly manner attended. Their numbers, in ſome meaſure, proved inconvenient, by interrupting our labours; but, on a line being drawn on the ground, denot- ing the ſpace we intended to occupy, not one attempted to treſpaſs; and thoſe who were per- mitted to help in the debarkation of our ſtores, condućted themſelves with the utmoſt decorum, and ſeemed amply repaid with a few beads for their aſſiſtance. Towards noon Mr. Mudge returned with my old friend Pomurrey, who was ſaluted, previouſly to his coming on board, with four guns from each veſſel, which gratified him extremely. With him came Matooara Mahow, commonly called Mahow; the reigning prince, under Otoo; of Mo- rea. There was however little probability of his long enjoying this honorable ſtation, as he ap- peared to be in the laſt ſtage of a deep and rapid decline; his perſon was reduced to a mere ſkele- ton, which he was not able to raiſe without great aſſiſtance. He was hoiſted on board in a chair, - and 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 261 and ſupported by ſix people down to the cabinº where, unable to ſit up, or to ſtand, a bed was prepared for him on the lockers. The reaſons that could inducc a man in his deplorable con- dition to undertake ſuch a viſit, muſt, without doubt, be not leſs curious than extraordinary 1 Pomurrey had perfeót recolle&tion of me; and every expreſſion, and action, indicated the ſince- rity of the happineſs he profeſſed on our arrival. He frequently obſerved, I had grown very much, and looked very old ſince laſt we had parted. In the afternoon, his two wives and youngeſt ſiſter arrived ; the former were the ſiſters, and the lat- ter the wife of Mahow. His two brothers alſo accompanied the ladies, with many chiefs and attendants, each preſenting me on their coming on board with cloth, hogs, fowls and vegetables, in ſuch abundance, that we had now more than we could well diſpenſe with. This profuſion, however, and the manner in which it was be- ſtowed, was very grateful to our feelings, as it plainly cvinced the kind-hearted diſpoſition of the inhabitants, and that we could not experi- ence any want were our ſtay to be protracted far beyond the period of my preſent intention. It now became neceſſary that a handſome return ſhould be made to the whole group, agreeably to the rank and ſituation of each individual. In ſelecting the preſents I was fortunate enough at R 3 once 262 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. once to ſucceed, far beyond their moſt ſanguine expectations. As Pomºrrey and Mahow, with their wives, were to ſleep on board, their donations were not to be exhibited to public view until the crowd was diſperſed; and I was inſtrućted, in the event of inquiries being made concerning the preſents I propoſed to make theſe illuſtrious perſonages, to enumerate but few of the articles. Amongſt thoſe intended for Pomurrey were two axes. Theſe he deſired no one ſhould know of ; and to pre- Vent eVen ſuſpicion, hid them under my bureau, where they remained ſome days, until he ſent his elder wife Pomurrey Whaheime for them. This degree of ſecrecy ſeemed inexplicable. y Amongſt the ſeveral chiefs who viſited us, was Poeno, chief of Matavai, who brought with him a portrait of Captain Cook, drawn by Mr. Web- ber, in the year 1777. This pićture is always depoſited in the houſe of the chief of Matavai, and is become the public regiſter. On the back of it was written, that the Pandora had quitted this iſland the 8th of May, 1791. - * It is natural to ſuppoſe we ſhould be very ſoli- citous to become acquainted with the circum- ſtances that had attended the veſſel and the un- fortunate perſons belonging to the Bounty. Cap- tain Edwards, who in the Pandora was diſpatched from England in queſt of them ſome months prior * - to 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 263 to our ſailing, had, we underſtood, arrived here, and taken on board thoſe of the crew who were left at Otaheite, amounting to the number of thirteen, at the time Mr. Chriſtian with the reſt of his party ſailed from the iſland, which was ſome time before the arrival of the Pandora ; ſince which period I was not able to procure any intelligence of Mr. Chriſtian or his companions. Whatever particulars could be collected from the natives, reſpecting this no leſs criminal than melancholy event, I thought it an incumbent duty to procure and tranſmit to England, left any accident ſhould befall the Pandora. But as a le- gal inveſtigation has ſince taken place, I truſt I ſhall neither incur the diſpleaſure of the humane, nor the reproach of the curious, by declining any further digreſſion on this ſad ſubjećt: the former will readily find an apology for me in their own boſoms; and the latter may reſort to the publi- cations of the day, for any other particulars with which they may be deſirous of becoming ac- quainted. - A large party of royalty, and chiefs, honored us with their company at dinner, which failed of being a pleaſant circumſtance in conſequence of the weather being extremely hot, and the cabin cxceſſively crowded. On this occaſion, the wives of Pomurrey and the wife of Mahow were per- mitted to fit with us at table, and partake of the - R 4 repaſt. 264 A voyAGE of Discovery [JAN. repaſt. This indulgence, however, is by no means common, and, I believe,. granted to no other of the women on the iſland. Our atten- tion was particularly attracted by the great deſire which the generality of them, both male and female, exhibited, in their endeavours to adopt our manners and cuſtoms, and the avidity with which they ſought ſpirituous liquors. - * * Pomurrey, in the courſe of dinner and after- wards, drank a bottle of brandy, without dilut- ing it. This threw him into ſuch violent convul- fions that four ſtrong men were required to hold him down, and to perform the office of “Roome, roome,” which is done by ſqueezing the fleſh of the limbs, and body of the intoxicated perſon with their hands. On theſe convulſions ſubſid- ing, he ſlept for about an hour, and then aroſe to all appearance as much refreſhed with his nap, as if he had retired perfectly ſober. I expoſtu- lated with a deſire to convince him that inebriety was highly pernicious to health, but in vain; his only reply was, “Nowe none,” a term uſed for every thing that delights or pleaſes, ſuch as mu- ſic, &c. &c. accuſed me of being a ſtingy fellow, and that I was not “Tio tio,” a phraſe lately adopted to ſignify a jolly companion. This de- termined me that he ſhould have his own way, and orders were given that he ſhould have as . . . . . . . * Wide Cook’s Voyages. - - - * * , , . . . . {{ {}QY 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 265 brandy or rum, as he choſe to call for ; con- cluding, that in a few days he would be con- vinced of its ill effects. In this I was not miſ- taken; before the week expired he ceaſed calling for ſpirits; and a few glaſſes of wine, at and after dinner, completely ſatisfied him ; frequently ſay- ing, that all I had told him of the “Ava Bri- farme” was perfeótly true. Spirits and wine are, however, in great requeſt with all the chiefs, as is ſugar; and there can be no doubt that theſe articles might be rendered amongſt them conſi- derable branches of traffic. We were buſily employed on Tueſday the 3d about our rigging, ſails, and other matters on board; and in landing the chronometers, inſtru- ments, and other neceſſary articles and imple- ments for the execution of our buſineſs on ſhore; from whence the boats returned with ſome water; and we began ſalting pork. - The weather continued to be very ſuitry; the thermometer generally ſtanding between 83 and 80, my royal gueſts, with a crowd of attendants, ſtill remained on board, and their company be- came no leſs unpleaſant than inconvenient. I was given to underſtand they intended to make the ſhip their place of reſidence, until they ſhould return to Morea. This arrangement was very incommodious, and to which it was impoſſible to objećl: I was therefore under the neceſſity of reſortin § 266 A VOYAGE OF DISCOV ERY [JAN, reſorting to ſome little addreſs, which fortunately was attended with the deſired ſucceſs. I took an opportunity of acquainting Pomurrey that my attendance at the obſervatory would now be con- ſtantly required, which would oblige me to dine on ſhore ; but that I had ordered a dinner on board, and plenty of brandy, for him and his friends. A conſultation ſhortly took place, and as I was about to leave the ſhip, he ſaid, if I would call for him after dinner, the whole party would diſembark, deſiring at the ſame time, that he might be ſaluted on his landing, from the en- campment; which in the evening was done ac- cordingly. Our royal friends took up their abode in a wretched houſe brought for the expreſs pur- poſe to point Venus, where our tents on former viſits had been pitched, Pomurrey was not in a condition to favor us with his preſence that even- ing; but, in the morning of Wedneſday the 4th, we had the honor of his company at the encamp- ment. He regarded with inquiſitive attention, and great admiration, the ſeveral works in which our people were engaged. A large piece of tim- ber which was ſawing into plank, greatly attract- ed his notice, and drew me into a ſcrape; he ſaid it was impoſſible we could be in immediate want of ſo great a quantity, and did not doubt that ere long we ſhould be in a country where we could again be ſupplied, having underſtood that 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 267 that this ſtick had been cut at New Zealand. Theſe conſiderations led him to requeſt, that I would order a cheſt of the plank to be made for him, fix feet long, four feet broad, and three feet deep. I excuſed myſelf, by replying that I could not with any conveniency part with ſo much plank, nor could the carpenters be well ſpared from the buſineſs on which they were em- ployed; but that, before we ſailed, I would en- deavour to have a ſmall cheſt made for him. Pomurrey, however, was of opinion, that a large cheſt would take little more time to finiſh than a ſmall one, and offered to find plank for the top and bottom, if I would ſupply the ſides and ends, and allow a carpenter to make it. In ſhort, he was ſo preſſing and earneſt, that much againſt my inclination, having great demands for the plank, and conſtant employ for the artificers, I was under the neceſſity of complying with his wiſhes. - Mahow, though extremely feeble, paid us a viſit on ſhore; being unable to walk, he was car- ried about in a kind of litter. Many other chiefs were now conſtantly attendant upon us with a numerous party of the natives, who all condućted themſelves with the ſtricteſt propriety, and ſeem- ed highly delighted with the new mode of ſpend- ing their time, in obſerving and animadverting on our different employments. The 26S A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. The wind, ſince our arrival, had been eaſt- wardly, blowing a moderate breeze; it had now veered to the north with ſqualls and ſhowers of rain, attended by a very heavy rolling ſwell in the bay. The Diſcovery's yawl wanting repair was hauled up for that purpoſe. In the evening we had much rain, with frequent guſts of wind; which ſo much increaſed the ſurf, that all com- munication with the ſhore muſt have ceaſed, had not the good offices of our kind friends on the iſland, enabled us to keep up a correſpondence. They ſucceſsfully contended with the boiſterous elements, by ſwimming to and from the ſhip; and, to manifeſt their attachment, ſupplied us by this means with bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other refreſhments. - On the morning of Thurſday the 5th, the N.W. wind, which is the moſt boiſterous and unpleaſant known in this country, brought with it a ſea which broke with ſuch great violence on the ſhore, as to inſulate the ſpot on which our royal friends had taken up their abode. The wind could not be conſidered as a ſtrong gale; yet ſo violent was the ſea that accompanied it, that it broke with unintermitted force in every part of the bay, excepting where the veſſels rode; and, even there, we did not intirely eſcape its fury; two ſeas broke on board the Diſcovery, although in eight fathoms water, which nearly filled the ! A - waiſt. - 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 26g waiſt. Towards eight o'clock, the clouds in the N. W. bearing a very threatening appearance, the ſheet anchor was dropped underfoot. This diſagreeable weather continued all day, and the furf ranged ſo high on the ſhore as to make it ne- ceſſary to remove the obſervatory further back feveral paces; notwithſtanding which, the kind offices of the friendly natives, regardleſs of dan- ger, were uninterruptedly continued. It became calm, and the weather appeared more ſettled on the morning of Friday the 6th. The ſheet anchor was weighed and replaced; and all hands were buſily employed in their re- ſpective departments. After breakfaſt, I went on ſhore, and underſtood that Otoo had, in the courſe of the laſt two days, been carried, as when we firſt met him, about the encampment. On his approach, I invited him into the marquee, and requeſted he would viſit the ſhips. Both theſe invitations he declined; and I was immediately given to underſtand, that ſhould he enter the tents or ſhips, neither his father, mother, or any inhabitant of theſe iſlands, could again be admit- ted; that every thing is and muſt be deſtroyed. out of which he ſhould eat or drink, although. veſſels or utenfils belonging to us. As the young monarch was about the encampment moſt part of the day; whilſt at dinner, I demanded of his father if I might ſend him a glaſs of wine; he replied, 2:0 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. replied, if I choſe to have the glaſs broken, I was at liberty ſo to do ; and enquired if I had an abundance of ſuch articles to ſpare. Some wine was therefore ſent in the ſhell of a COCOa-nut, which being emptied by the young king, was in- ſtantly broken and thrown in the ſea. Pomurrey had, early and frequently, aſked if we had not fire-works on board, and being informed that we had, Saturday evening was fixed for an exhibi- tion, after which the royal party, with their dying chief Mahow, were to return to Morea, and hav- ing landed him, Pomurrey and his wives were to return, and remain here until we ſhould depart. The intended diſplay of fire-works was made known to all around us, and meſſengers with the intelligence were diſpatched to various parts of the iſland. Pomurrey's father, who was formerly known by the name of Happi, now called Taow, had ar- rived from Morea, on Saturday the 7th, and was on board the Diſcovery, where he deſired to ſee me ; on which, Pomurrey with Urripiah and Whytooa, his two next brothers, accompanied me to pay our reſpects to their old fire, who had juſt arrived in a large canoe, laden with the produc- tions of the country as a preſent. This interview was exceſſively affecting. It was with great ſa- tisfaction that I beheld the affectionate regard with which the three ſons embraced their aged * and 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 27 and venerable father; who, in acknowledging a grateful ſenſe of their dutiful congratulations, exhibited feelings which drew tears from the whole party. When theſe filial effuſions, which would have done credit to the ſenſibility of the moſt poliſhed nations, had ſubſided, I preſented Taow with a ſuitable return ; and, on including ſome articles for his wife, who was ſtill living at Morea, he was highly delighted, and the value of the preſent in his eſtimation ſeemed thereby infinitely increaſed. Some of the royal females had now joined our party; and as Pomurrey had not yet paid Mr. Broughton a viſit, we all went on board the Chat- ham. Preſents were neceſſary on this occaſion; and although I conſidered that Mr. Broughton had been very liberal, our royal gueſts ſeemed of a very different opinion; but on explaining that there was not the ſame abundance of valuable things on board the ſmall veſſel that there was in the large ſhip, and having ſome retroſpect to the number and value of thoſe obtained from the Diſcovery, we left the Chatham, and went on ſhore tolerably well ſatisfied. Soon after our arrival at the encampment I witneſſed a ſcene, very different from that which had been exhibited on board on the meeting of three ſons with their venerable parent. It was ſhortly announced that Otoo was approaching On 272 A voy. AGE of Discover ºf [AN. On this occaſion, it became neceſſary that the grandfather ſhould pay homage to his grandſon. A pig and a plantain leaf were inſtantly pro- cured, the good old man ſtripped to the waiſt, and when Otoo appeared in the front of the mar- quee, the aged parent, whoſe limbs were tottering with the decline of life, met his grandſon, and on his knees acknowledged his own inferiority, by preſenting this token of ſubmiſſion; which, ſo far as could be diſcovered, ſeemed offered with a mixture of profound reſpect, and parental re- gard. The ceremony ſeemed to have little effect on the young monarch, who appeared to notice the humiliating ſituation of his grandfire with the moſt perfeót indifference and unconcern. This mode of behaviour is, however, rather to be attributed to the force of education, than to a want of the proper ſentiments of affection; as I perfectly recolle&ted that, when I was here with Captain Cook, Pomurrey treated his brothers with the moſt cool indifference, although, on the pre- ſent occaſion, there are few examples of three brothers living in greater harmony, or regarding each other with more fraternal affection: it ſhould therefore ſeem, that this ſort of diſtant deport- ment is a neceſſary appendage to the high office of ſovercign. Another royal ſon and daughter honored us with their company. Theſe, with a daughter remaining at Morea, are all the chil- dren l 792.] ROUND THE WORLD, 273 dren of Pomurrey now living. His family origi- nally conſiſted of five, but one of his daughters was deceaſed. All theſe children were by his eldeſt wife, known by the name of Pomurrey Whaheime, or the female Pomurrey; this lady I ſhall hereafter diſtinguiſh by the appellation of Queen Mother. By his youngeſt wife he has had no children; ſhe is called Fier rete. Our new viſitors were, each like their brother Otoo, carried on men's ſhoulders; and for the ſame reaſons which interdićted him, they could not enter our habitations. The youth ſeemed to be about three or four years younger than Otoo, and had taken the name of Whyeadooa, in conſequence of his being the acknowledged ſovereign of Tia- rabou, under his brother Otoo; the daughter ap- peared to be about two or three years of age, to whom, or to the young lady remaining at Morea, I did not underſtand that any particular titles or conſequence were at preſent annexed; yet this child ſeemed treated with much reſpect and at- tentlon. We had a very large party of the royal family and of the different chiefs to dinner at the mar- quee : after which it was propoſed, that the “ Heava no Britarme,” that is, the Engliſh en- tertainments, ſhould commence. Pomurrey re- queſted that ſome guns from the ſhips ſhould be fired as a prelude; that the marines on ſhore Vol. I. S ſhould 274 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. ſhould go through their exerciſe, and fire; and that the efforts of the field pieces ſhould be ex- hibited. From the latter were fired both round and canniſter ſhot, which the furrounding mul- titude beheld with ſurprize, admiration, and ter- ror, manifeſted by their expreſſions, particularly on obſerving the diſtance to which the ſmall three pounders threw the round ſhot; and the execution that evidently could be done by the canniſter, which was fired at a rock in the ſea, lying at a convenient diſtance. On firing with ſome diſpatch, three rounds from the field pieces, the fear of Pomurrey completely overcame his curioſity, and he exclaimed “Ateerara,” ſignify- ing, he was perfeótly ſatisfied. In the evening, we were very fortunate in our diſplay of fire-works. They had been well pre- pared and preſerved ; and were, without excep- tion, of their various kinds, equal to any I ever ſaw diſcharged in Europe. A numerous crowd aſſembled on the occaſion expreſſed as much as- toniſhment and admiration as if theſe had been the firſt exhibited in the iſland. I endeavoured to prevail on Pomurrey to aſſiſt in the perform- ance. He once took the port fire in his hand, but his heart failed, and calling his youngeſt wife Fierre te, deſired I would inſtruct her. She was by no means ſo alarmed as her huſband; and, with a little of my aſſiſtance, ſhe fired feveral - rockets, 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 275 rockets, a catharine wheel, ſome flower-pots, and balloons. Having diſplayed an affortment of theſe, together with ſome water rockets, &c. the exhibition was cloſed; and the natives retired in the moſt perfect good order to their reſpective habitations, exceſſively well pleaſed with their entertainment; although it was evident, that the major part had been as much affected by terror as admiration. Pomurrey, with his two wives and ſiſter, came to breakfaſt the next morning, Sunday the 8th, and expreſſed great ſatisfaction and many thanks for the pleaſure which the laſt evening had afforded them. The young king, with his brother and fiſter, honored the encamp- ment alſo with their preſence. Underſtanding that our royal party were about to leave us for ſome days, preſents were made them on the oc- caſion; with which, highly delighted with their excurſion, and their reception by us, they de- parted. The chronometers and other inſtruments had now been landed nearly a week; but, owing to the very unſettled ſtate of the weather, until this day, we had not been able to get correſponding altitudes. The like cauſe had operated alſo in retarding the general tranſactions at the encamp- ment; where whilſt I was buſily employed at the obſervatory, Poatatou arrived; having ſent before him a magnificent preſent of hogs, vege- S 2 tables, 276 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. tables, cloth, mats, &c. I had been very inti- mate with this chief on my laſt viſit to this coun- try; we perfeótly recolle&ted each other; and the ſincerity of my friend, and his wife alſo, did not ſpare me the mortification of being informed a ſecond time, that I was grown exceedingly old. He much regretted that he had not arrived in time to partake of the entertainments of the pre- ceding day and evening; as he had never been ſo fortunate as to be preſent at ſuch an exhibi- tion. This induced me to promiſe, that, on the return of Pomurrey from Morea, a ſimilar diſplay ſhould take place. Poatatou, who was now called Hidiea, with his wife and ſiſter, accompanied me on board. Amongſt the valuables with which I preſented my old acquaintance and friend, was an axe, of which his ſiſter became ſo enamoured, claiming to herſelf a part of the preſent I had received, that Hidiea was under the neceſſity of uſing ſome force to prevent her wrenching it out of his hand; but, on my making a ſmall addition to the articles ſhe had received, the lady became re- conciled. t - Our buſineſs in the ſeveral departments was now in great forwardneſs; yet we were likely to experience an inconvenience in procuring fire- wood, as we had few trees in our neighbourhood but ſuch as bore fruit. On mentioning: this w circumſtance 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD, - 277 circumſtance to Urripiah, he undertook, with Whytooa, Poeno, and Moerree an inferior chief, to ſupply more than the ſhips would contain, pro- vided they were furniſhed with two axes each, as, on ſuch an occaſion, they could not afford to wear out their own ; which, on my part, was readily acceded to. The ſea had broken ſo much into the river as to render it brackiſh and unfit for uſe near our encampment; this obliged us to have our caſks filled near a mile off, oppoſite Urripiah's habita- tion; who ordered them to be emptied, and fil- led, for the purpoſe of ſeaſoning, as often as we deſired; and giving them in charge to his truſty domeſtics, they remained in his cuſtody ſeveral days in the moſt perfect ſafety. This condućt was not fingular; for it is but juſtice to acknow- ledge, that every one of the inhabitants behaved with an uniform propriety, as deſerving of our thanks as of our commendations. In every tranſ- aćtion, they were emulous to afford us aſſiſtance to the utmoſt of their power; and ſeemed amply and ſatisfactorily rewarded for their exertions in our ſervice, by the humble return of a few beads, or ſmall nails. The departure of Pomurrey's family was daily put off, Mahow being very deſirous that we ſhould convey him home in one of our boats; but, as theſe, as well as our men, were too much em- S 3 ployed 278 A Voy AGE of Discover Y [JAN. ployed to be ſpared ſor this purpoſe, we were daily honored at our meals with moſt of this good company; and it muſt be acknowledged, that their deportment at table was now ſo much improved, that the major part condućted them- felves with great conſiſtency. Excepting the daughter of Opoone, who reigned over Bolabola, and its two neighbouring iſles, we had now the preſence of all the ſovereigns of this group of iſlands. Opoone had formerly conquered and an- nexed the iſlands of Ulietea and Otaha to the go- vernment of Bolabola; but, on his death, the ſovereignty of theſe iſlands had, in right of na- tural, or original ſucceſſion, fallen to a chief whoſe name was Mowree. He was a ſhrewd ſen- fible fellow, affected to be well acquainted with the Engliſh language, and certainly had acquired ſome words which he pronounced ſo as to be un- derſtood. He was a brother of Pomurrey's mo- ther, was on a viſit to the royal family here, and was by them treated with much reſpect and at- tentlon. - Hitherto I had received a few trifling preſents of proviſions only from Pomurrey, who had lately expreſſed ſome regret that he had not made me a return for the many uſeful matters I had beſtow- ed upon him, and had fixed this day to make an acknowledgment. * . Towards noon Pomurrey came to the marquee, attended 1792.] ROUND THE WORLT). - 279 attended by a confiderable train. He was pre- ceded by three men, each bearing a parri, or mourning dreſs, eſteemed the moſt valuable pre- ſent the country can afford. Many of the reſt were laden with cloth, fowls and vegetables; theſe with ſome very large hogs which brought up the rear, made altogether a very ſuperb and grateful compenſation. Pomurrey and his wives dined with us; after which they took leave of the encampment to embark for Oparre, there to join Mahow, who had departed early in the morning for Morea; for which iſland the whole of the royal party were to ſail the next day; there they propoſed to land Mahow, and, in the courſe of four or five days, return; having given them to underſtand we ſhould, about that time, be on the eve of our departure. They were ſaluted from our ſtation on ſhore, on their way on board the Diſcovery, where a canoe was waiting to re- ceive them ; and in which were two large hogs, that Pomurrey had deſired might be ſent me from Oparre. Conſidering myſelf, on this occaſion, his debtor, I endeavoured to diſcover what would be moſt acceptable in return. He had promiſed to ſolicit a file for a man in his canoe, and he could not be prevailed upon to accept any other article. After a ſhort ſtay on board, they bade us farewel, and were ſaluted with eight guns from the veſſels. Moſt of the chiefs left us, in S 4 order 28O A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. order to procure ſuch articles as they conſidered might be acceptable to us previouſly to our de- parture. - Mr. Broughton, Mr. Menzies, and ſeveral of. ficers of the Diſcovery and Chatham made an excurſion on Friday the 13th to the weſtward, towards Oparre, and the country in its vicinity; which, together with the abſence of the chiefs and their attendants, ſo much reduced our ſo- ciety, that the encampment had the appearance of being almoſt deſerted. At day-break the next morning, Saturday the 14th, I received a meſſage from Pomurrey, ac- quainting me with the death of Mahow; in con- fequence of which their voyage to Morea was at an end, Little concern could poſibly be felt on this occaſion. Mahow's relief from the wretched condition in which he exiſted, was directed by humanity to be eſteemed a moſt happy event; particularly when the very fingular treatment is confidered, which this poor being endured whilſt in our neighbourhood. Almoſt every evening, and ſometimes twice in the night, he was brought in the litter from the royal habitation near the point, and placed in ſome one of our tents for a ſhort time, and then carried back again. In the day-time he was either viſiting the encampment, or, in the heat of the ſun, or in the midſt of rain was rowed round the ſhips, and inſiſted one even- ing 1792.] Tº OUND THE WORLD. 28 t ing on ſleeping on board the Chatham. He was very fond of tea, and extremely deſirous that whatever nouriſhment he took ſhould be dreſſed in the Engliſh faſhion. The conduct obſerved towards this dying man, ſeemed calculated, if not intended, to haſten his diſſolution. This however, was not to be reconciled with the ge- neral deportment of the whole royal party, and eſpecially with that of Pomurrey, who appeared to regard him with great tenderneſs and affec- tion. I was particularly inquiſitive why he was ſo haraſſed about ; and they all agreed it was in conſequence of his own deſire, which, ſo far as could be learned, ſeemed dićtated by ſuperſtitious notions. - I deſired the meſſenger to inform Pomurrey, that I would attend the funeral ſolemnities of the deceaſed the next day. On the morning of Sunday the 15th he again returned with a requeſt from Pomurrey, that I would not viſit Oparre until Tueſday, when the religious interdićtion under which that diſtrićt had been laid would be at an end, no communication at preſent being permitted between the inhabitants of Oparre and thoſe of the other parts of the iſland. This was made generally known by the diſplay of flags in the ſeveral path-ways; not a canoe was ſuffered to move along the ſhores; nor was a fire allowed to be made ; which produced a degree of ſolem- nity, 282, A VOYAG E OF DISCO W ERY [JAN. nity, that was very expreſſive of the concern felt for the death of this chief, and of his conſequence and reſpectability. Numerous fires had been ob- ſerved the preceding day all over the diſtrićt of Oparre. Theſe, we were given to underſtand, were ceremonies of a religious nature conſequent on the demiſe of Mahow; and it is reaſonable to ſuppoſe that the mourners took advantage of this ordinance to cook ſufficient proviſions for the time of the interdićtion. Our proviſions having been ſupplied in the greateſt abundance, permiſſion was now granted for the purchaſe of curioſities, agreeably to my promiſe contained in the reſtrićtive orders of the 25th of December laſt. And as nothing worthy of attention had occurred in our neighbourhood during the abſence of Mr. Broughton and his party, I ſhall inſert ſuch obſervations made during their excurſion, as were communicated to me on their return. Our gentlemen embarked in a canoe belonging to Mowree, the ſovereign of Ulictea, who toge- thcrwith Whytooa and his wife accompanied them towards Oparrc. On their way they landed for the purpoſe of ſeeing the morai of Tapoata- pnotatea. Mowree, who attended them, on ap- proaching the ſacred ſpot, deſired the party would ſtop until he ſhould addreſs the Eatooa, For this purpoſe he ſeated himſelf on the ground, and 1792.] R OUND THE WORLD. 283 and began praying before a watta, ornamented with a piece of wood indifferently carved, on which was placed, for the preſent occaſion, a bundle of cloth and ſome red feathers. During this ejaculation, which took up a conſiderable time, the names of the party were twice men- tioned. He likewiſe repeated the names of the ſeveral commanders who had viſited the iſland; together with thoſe of “ Keene Corge” (that is, King George) and “ Britarme,” which were fre- quently expreſſed. When theſe introdućtory ceremonies were finiſhed, Mowree attended them to every part of the morai, and explained every particular. He appeared to be well verſed in all the ceremonials and rites appertaining to their religion, which made the party greatly lament their want of a competent knowledge of the lan- guage, as they were unable to comprehend his meaning, except in a few common inſtances. Having left the morai, and proceeded weſtward about a mile, they arrived at a houſe ſurrounded by a plantation of ava belonging to Urripiah, who was then at dinner with a numerous com- * pany of our Matavai friends; and whilſt our gen- tlemen were taking ſome refreſhment, a meſ- ſenger arrived from Whytooa, whoſe gueſts they were to be, and who had gone before them from the morai, requeſting their attendance at his ha- bitation, which they found ſituated on the verge - of 284 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. of the ſea ſhore. In the front of it was an ava plantation, interſperſed with ſugar cane, and ba- nanas; near the houſe was a ſmall ſhrubbery, of native ornamental plants. The whole ſurrounded by a well conſtructed fence of bamboo, neatly interſe&ted with clean paths, that led in dif- ferent direétions, produced an effect that was ex- tremely pleaſing, and redounded much to the credit and ingenuity of the proprietor. Whytooa had taken very cffectual means to provide for their entertainment; for a large hog had been committed to the oven, and was nearly ready for the table, with an abundance of other re- freſhments. The manſion was large and airy. By lines ſtretched acroſs, they had quiet poſſeſ- fion of one half of the building; and this parti- tion prevented the idle curioſity of the aſſembled natives from interrupting the comfort of their repaſt. In the afternoon they were viſited by Urripiah and ſome of his attendants. He ob- ſerved, that, in the abſence of his royal brothers, and other principal chiefs, it was not improbable that ſome of the natives might take advantage of this circumſtance, and diſcontinue their pre- ſent orderly behaviour in the neighbourhood of the veſſels and the encampment. He therefore requeſted Mr. Broughton would, in his name, write to me, recommending the five following chiefs to be admitted into our ſociety on board and , -º 1792.] , ROUND THE WORLD, 285 and on ſhore; whoſe preſence would be the means of effectually reſtraining the populace. Their names were Poeno, Matiapo, and Moerree, of Matavai; and Tatoah, and Arreheah of Hapi- no ; in the protećtion and good offices of whom we may place the fulleſt confidence. Matiapo being preſent, he was charged by Mr. Broughton with this embaſſy. From our earlieſt acquaint- ance with this royal and worthy chief, his mind had appeared to be wholly engroſſed in deviſing the means for our comfort, and for preſerving a friendly and good underſtanding between us and his countrymen ; and even here, though retired to his cottage, he was found equally zealous in the ſame laudable purſuit. They were alſo com- plimented by the young king Otoo with a viſit. His approach was announced by the uſual cere- mony of all the natives preſent uncovering their ſhoulders; and as he could not with propriety enter Whytooa's fence, they paid him their re- ſpects on the beach ; whence, after receiving ſome trinkets, he haſtened with his royal fiſter, each carried as before, to meet Pomurrey, who was about to land at the morai. Towards the evening, a ſcene was preſented that gave a very different turn to the feelings of the party. On paying their reſpects to the royal family, who had landed near them, the ſorrow and dejećtion which appeared in the countenance of Pomurrey, in- duced 286 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. duced an inquiry into the cauſe of his melan- choly; he replied in a low tone of voice, that “Maſoodra Mahow was dead.” Urripiah on hearing the news burſt into a flood of tears; and a ſorrowful gloomy ſadneſs ſoon overſpread the whole aſſembly. On advancing a little further, we obſerved the queen-mother and Fier rete in tears near the canoe from which they had landed, ſearching a bundle containing ſome ſhark's tecth, with which the women of this country torture themſelves, to manifeſt their grief on ſuch occa- fions. After each had made choice of an inſtru- ment for this purpoſe, they retired in ſilent afflic- tion to a neighbouring plantation. - The next morning, (Monday the 16th) they were again honored by a viſit from Otoo and ſe- veral of the chiefs, in their way to the morai. Soon after, a canoe covered with an awning was ſeen coming from the weſtward, paddling in a ſlow and ſolemn manner towards the morai, in which was the corpſe of the deceaſed chief. On their expreſſing great anxiety to ſee Pomurrey for the purpoſe of obtaining permiſſion to attend the bu- rial ceremony, they were informed that he was gone to the morai, but would have no objećtion to their being preſent. They proceeded; and, near the rivulet that flows by Urripiah's houſe, they ſaw the queen-mother, Fier rete, and the widow of the deceaſed Mahow, ſitting all in tears; w and 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD, 287 and in the paroxyſms of their affliction, wound- ing their heads with the ſhark's teeth they had prepared the preceding evening. The widow had a ſmall ſpot ſhaved on the crown of her head, which was bloody, and bore other evident marks of hav- ing frequently undergone the cruel effect of her deſpair. Being apprehenſive that the preſence of ſtrangers might be unwelcome, they took leave, and repaired to the morai, where the prieſts had already begun their funcral ſolemnities. Pomur- rey, Urripiah, and others, ſilently aſſenting, they moved quietly through the aſſembly, and were ſeated with as little interruption to the duties, as on entering a church in England after the ſervice is commenced. Five prieſts were ſeated before Pomurrey, chanting a prayer, with their faces towards Otoo, who ſat on a man's lap. About ten yards from him was held a bundle of cloth, which contained emblematically the Eatooa ; a general name for their deities. The body of Ma- how, wrapped in Engliſh red cloth, was depo- ſited under an awning in a canoe, whoſe bow was drawn up a little way on the beach near the morai, and was attended by one man only at her ſtern up to his middle in water, to prevent her driving from the ſpot. The prieſts continued chanting their prayers, frequently exalting their voices, until they ended in a very ſhrill tone. He who, on this occaſion; performed the office of ^ chief *2SS A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. chief prieſt, was diſcovered to be our friend Mow- ree, whoſe prayer was equally fervent, and con- tinued nearly half an hour longer than the reſt; during which he was occaſionally joined by ano- ther prieſt in a very ſhrill tone of voice. This prayer of Mowree's ſecnned at intervals, like an expoſtulation with the Divinity, by adverting to the different produćtions of the iſland remaining, and ſtill flouriſhing in the greateſt plenty, and yet Matooara Mahow was ſuffered to die: The addreſs being ended they all roſe up, and proceeded weſtward along the ſhore, followed by the canoe in which was the corpſe, to the mouth of the rivulet, where the three royal ladies ſtill continued to indulge their exceſſive grief; and who, on perceiving the canoe, burſt forth into a loud yell of lamentation, which was accompa- nied by an accelerated application of the ſhark's teeth, until the blood very freely following, min- gled with their tears. The canoe entered the brook, and proceeded towards another morai at the foot of the mountains, where the ceremonies to be performed on the body of the deceaſed re- quired ſuch ſecrecy, that, on no account, could our gentlemen be permitted to attend, although. it was moſt earneſtly requeſted. As ſome allevia- tion to this diſappointment, Pomurrey promiſed they ſhould ſee the manner in which the remains would be depoſited the next day, and earneſtly - intreated 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 289 intreated they would deſiſt from following the proceſſion any further on the preſent occaſion. As it was generally ſuſpected that the body was now to undergo the proceſs of embalming, the party much lamented Pomurrey's interdiction, as it deprived them of the only opportunity that poſ- ſibly might ever occur of becoming acquainted with the nature of this operation ; whence might be derived not only curious, but uſeful anatomi- cal information. This prompted Mr. Menzies to renew his ſolicitations to Pomurrey to be ad- mitted alone ; but as theſe were attended with no better ſucceſs they determined to abandon theſe melancholy ſolemnities, and extend their excurſion a few miles weſtward to Pomurrey's reſidence; which they found pleaſantly ſituated near the ſhore, conſiſting of two large houſes lately erected. Here they were entertained with a heava performed by a number of very young girls, in the wanton manner of the country. At a particular part of the dance, a fellow ſtept in amongſt the performers, and in a very obſcene though ludicrous manner entertained the native audience ; but, on our gentlemen expreſſing their abhorrence of ſuch indecorous behaviour, the girls, in finiſhing their parts, did not expoſe their perſons below the waiſt. After diſtributing ſome preſents to the young ačtreſſes, they retired; Vol. I. - T and 290 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. and dire&ting their route back, through the plan- tations, ſoon arrived at the houſe of a chief, where Whytood having provided an excellent repaſt they were ſumptuouſly regaled. -- In the evening, as they returned to our friend's houſe, they obſerved many fires were burning at Oparre, as if a grand entertainment was prepar- ing; they however fared as uſual; and after ſup- per, on requeſting their worthy hoſt would join in a glaſs of grog, to the health of friends in Bri- farmle, he, though extremely fond of the liquor, very politely declined the invitation; ſaying, there was but little for themſelves, and he would there- fore drink “Britarme” in a bowl of Otaheitean ava, which was immediately prepared. Before break of day, Mowree acquainted them, that, as religious reſtrićtions were laid on all the canoes in that part of the iſland, his could not be launched; he was informed this would not be any inconvenience, as it was the intention of the party to return by land; and requeſted, that Whytood would prepare them an early breakfaſt. This, Whytooa hoped they would excuſe, as fires were interdićted, and cooking could not be ſuf- fered at his houſe; but that he would endeavour to provide them with ſome refreſhment on their journey, when out of the diſtrict of Oparre. Ac- companied by their worthy hoſt and hoſteſs, they 110 W 1792.] FOUND THE WORLD. 291 now ſet forth on their return, highly impreſſed with the attentive kindneſs and hoſpitality they had received. On reaching the rivulet, they requeſted to be {hewn the morai to which the remains of Mahow had been carried the preceding day. The road was pointed out, but having advanced a little way a meſſage was delivered, requeſting they would return. On explaining the promiſe made py Pomurrey, much heſitation enſued; after which Whytooa directed one of the natives only to ac- company them, giving him at the ſame time very particular injunctions. Mr. Broughton and Mr. Menzies followed this man, who appeared ex- ceedingly cautious and apprehenſive of every ſtep he took. They had not proceeded far when a general ſolitary gloom prevailed; all the houſes were deſerted, and not a living creature, except- ing two or three dogs, were to be ſeen until they arrived near the morai; where, in a ſmall houſe, three men were obſerved, who, moſt probably, were the centinels of the ſacred place. Theſe queſtioned the guide in a very particular manner, and then acquainted him, that the body of Mahoko had been removed to the morai, where it had ſtopped the day before; and that Pomurrey was there alſo. They now took a curſory view of the holy ſpot, which afforded little worthy of notice. It was terminated by high perpendicu- T 2 * lar 292 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. lar rocks, whence iſſued ſeveral ſtreams of water, whoſe continued murmurs, aſſiſted by the wild and gloomy ſituation of the morai, gave an aw- ful ſolemnity to the place, and fitted it to the mournful, ſacred purpoſe, for which it is deſigned. On the return of theſe two gentlemen to join the reſt of the party, they paſſed the reſidence of the young king Otoo. It conſiſted of a middling- ſized houſe, incloſed by a railing of wood, ſitu- ated on the confines of the diſtričts of Matavai and Oparre; beyond which the religious interdic- tions did not ſeem to extend any great diſtance, as thcy ſoon afterwards partook of an excellent breakfaſt that Whytooa had taken care to provide. They then returned to the encampment, ex- tremely well pleaſed with their excurſion, on which they had been conſtantly attended by ſc- veral of the natives, who were always ſtruggling to be foremoſt in acts of friendly attention; ſuch as carrying the party over the rivulets; taking charge of their ſuperfluous apparel, and other bundles; which, although compriſed of many ar- ticles highly valuable to them, yet, in juſtice to their honeſty, it muſt be recorded that the moſt trivial article was not miſſed. I ſhall take leave of this excurſion by adding a few ideas which, though principally founded on conjecture, may not be unimportant, as they re- ſpect theſe peculiar religious ceremonies. The opinion 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 293 opinion that the operation of embalming com- menced at the morai near the mountains was moſt probably correót. One of the principal parts of this ceremony I have becn given to underſtand, is always performed in great ſecrecy, and with much religious ſuperſtition; this is the diſem- bowelling of the body. The bowels are, by thcſ people, conſidered as the immediate organs of ſenſation, where the firſt impreſſions are reccived, and by which all the operations of the mind are carried on: it is therefore natural to conclude, that they may eſteem, and venerate the inteſtines, as bearing the greateſt affinity to the immortal part. I have frequently held converſations on this ſub- jećt, with a view to convince them, that all in- telle&tual operations were carricq on in the head; at which they would generally ſmile, and inti- mate, that they had frequently ſeen men reco- ver whoſe ſculls had been fractured, and whoſe heads had otherwiſe been much injured; but that, in all caſes in which the inteſtincs had been wounded, the perſons on a certainty died. Other arguments they would alſo advance in favor of their belief; ſuch as the effect of fear, and other paſſions, which cauſed great agitation and unea- ſineſs, and would ſometimes produce ſickncis at the ſtomach, which they attributed intirely to the action of the bowels. If therefore this rea- ſoning be admitted, it would appear probable T 8 4 that 204 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. \ that the inteſtines of Mahow were depoſited at the morai under the mountains; and as it is na- tural to imagine they would conſider the ſoul moſt attached to thoſe mortal parts which bore to it the greateſt affinity, ſo wherever thoſe parts were depoſited, there they may probably ſuppoſe the ſoul occaſionally reſorts. And hence it may be inferred, that it is in the places made ſacred by the depoſit of theſe relics, that the ceremony of chief mourner, habited in the parie, is per- formed; whoſe buſineſs it is to keep off the inqui- fitive, and to maintain as far as poſſible a profound filence over a certain ſpace in which he parades, having a kind of mace, armed with ſhark's teeth, borne before him by a man almoſt naked, whoſe duty is to affail any one with this formidable weapon, who may have the temerity to venture within his reach. This may account for Why- tooa's diſinclination to permit our gentlemen to viſit the morai; the apparently deſerted houſes; and the apprehenſions of the guide, who ſtarted at the leaſt interruption of the profound and ſo- lemn filence which prevailed in that neighbour- hood. CHAP. 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 295 CHAPTER VII. Two Natives puniſhed for Theft—Obſequies of Mahow—Several Articles ſtolen—Meaſures for their Recovery—Towereeroo the Sandwich Iſlander abſconds—Brought back by Pomurrey —Sail from Matavai Bay—Characier of Po- murrey—His Wives—Changes in the Govern- ment of Otaheite—-Aſironomical and nautical Obſervations. N the morning of Tueſday the 17th we were viſited by the young king, his uncles, and ſeveral other chiefs from Oparre. Two men had been detected in ſtealing a hat from on board the Diſcovery; and, as ſeveral other petty thefts had been committed at the encampment, I de- ſired the delinquents to be ſent on ſhore, that they might be puniſhed in the preſence of their chiefs, and countrymen, which was done by ſhaving their heads, and beſtowing on each a ſlight manual correótion. - A meſſage was received from Pomurrey, re- queſting my attendance at Oparre, to “fiehah,” that is, to mourn for the death of Mahow. It was underſtood to be much wiſhed, that we T 4 ſhould 296 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. \, ſhould be provided to fire ſome vollies; and that I ſhould preſent, on this occaſion, a piece of red cloth as an offering to the deceaſed. I was in- formed alſo that moſt of the neighbouring chiefs were to pay their laſt tribute of reſpect to the re- mains of Mahow, and that the ceremony would conſequently be attended with many formalities; but on our arrival at Oparre there did not appear the leaſt foundation for any ſuch report. Mr. Broughton and Mr. Whidbey accompanied me. On our landing, we were condućted to a tempo- rary habitation of Pomurrey, where we found him, his wives, and ſiſters, in readineſs to receive us. Some little concern was certainly apparent for the loſs of their friend and relation; though very unequal to the afflićtion I expe&ted to have wit- neſſed, from the great care, and tender regard, manifeſted to Mahow by the whole party when alive. The grief of theſe people is of two de- ſcriptions, natural and artificial; it is exceſſive on the firſt impulſe, but ſoon moderates and wears away. . . * * The corpſe was laid on the tapapaoo, which ſeemed to have been erected for the expreſs pur- poſe about a quarter of a mile to the eaſtward of the grand morai; (or as it is called, “tapoota- “pootatea”) and appeared to be then undergo- ing the latter part of the embalming proceſs, in the ſame manner as deſcribed by Captain Cook 1I] 1792.] Roun D THE worlD. 29? in the inſtance of Tee. The body was expoſed to the ſun; and, on our approach, the covering was taken off, which exhibited the corpſe in a very advanced ſtate of putrefaction. The ſkin ſhone very bright with the cocoa-nut oil, with which it had been anointed, and which, we un- derſtood, was highly impregnated with “aehigh,” or ſweet-ſcented wood. One of the arms and a leg being moved, the joints appeared perfeótly flexible. The extremely offenſive exhalations that were emitted, rendered it natural to conclude, that the whole maſs would ſoon be completely decompoſed; but, if credit may be given to their aſſertions, which were indubitably confirmed by the remains of Tee, and to which I could myſelf bear teſtimony, this will not be the caſe. Po- murrey informed us, the corpſe was to remain a month in this place; then a month was to be employed in its viſiting ſome of the weſtern diſ- tricts; after which it was to be removed to Tia- raboo for another month; whence it was to be carried to Morea, and there finally depoſited with his forefathers in the morai of the family. In the courſe of a few months after its arrival there, it would gradually begin to moulder away, but by ſuch very ſlow degrees, that ſeveral months would elapſe before the body would be entirely conſumed. This method of embalming, or rather of pre- ſerving 398 A W OYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. ferving human bodies, is certainly an objećt of great curioſity; particularly, when it is confi- dered that is performed under the influence of a vertical ſun; ſometimes in the rainy ſeaſon; and that the operators are totally ignorant of the pro- perties of ſpices, ſalts, &c. &c. as antiſeptics. Whether their preparations be ſimple or com- pounded, or what may be the peculiarities ob- ſerved in the proceſs, remains, I believe, intirely unknown to Europeans; and it is much to be re- gretted, that their religious interdićtions precluded our attending the whole of theſe myſterious ob- ſequies, as many veſſels may viſit this country without meeting ſo favorable an opportunity, with perſons on board qualified and inclined to direét ſuch enquires into effect. The boat's crew were ranged before the pal- ing that encompaſſed the tapapaoo; the piece of red cloth was given to the widow, who ſpread it over the dead body; ſome vollies were then fired, and I was direéted to pronounce “Tera no oea Mahow,” that is, For you Mahow. On ſome rain falling, the body was taken under cover, and carefully wrapped up. We had but a few yards to retire to Pomurrey's habitation, where himſelf and family had taken up a temporary abode for this occaſion ; but the exceedingly of fenſive ſmell of the corpſe obliged us to proceed to an excellent new houſe of Whytooa's, a little to 1792.] Round THE world. 299 to the weſtward of Pomurrey's former habitation, which had been deſtroyed during the latc wars, and had not been rebuilt; nor did it appear that he had any other houſe at preſent in this part of the diſtrićt. Here we dined, and returned to Matavai with two large hogs, preſented on this mournful occaſion by the widow of Mahow. Our friends with their axes made ſo little pro- greſs, that on the morning of Wedneſday the 18th, I requeſted Urripiah would point out ſuch trees as we might cut down ourſelves. This, with Whytooa's aſſiſtance, he ſhortly did; and we procured of the apple, and bread-fruit, ſuf- ficient numbers to ſupply our wants. Parties for this ſervice were ſent on ſhore, and the axes lent to the chiefs for this expreſs purpoſe, were di- rećled to be forth with returned ; with which Ur- ripiah, Whytooa, and Poeno, immediately com- plied. ' The mourning for Mahow being now at an end, the royal females paid us a viſit, and returned after dinner to Oparre. Pomurrey, his father, wives, brothers and ſiſters, with our ſeveral friends, were again about us the next morning, perfectly cheerful and in high ſpirits. As Sun- day was now determined upon for our departure, the preceding evening was fixed for a further diſ- play of fire-works, in which all our friends ſeemed to anticipate much pleaſure. Pomurrey returned 1I]. 300 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. the in evening to Oparre, for the purpoſe of pro- curing us ſuch ſupplies as he thought would be acceptable previouſly to our ſailing. A great number of preſents were received on board on the morning of Friday the 20th, con- fifting of hogs, fowls, goats,” roots and vege- tables, from our ſeveral friends; who had uni- formly conducted themſelves with the greateſt propriety, and who all appeared to regret that the period of our departure was now ſo near at hand. In the midſt of this happy intercourſe and deſir- able harmony, a circumſtance unfortunately oc- curred, which occaſioned much concern. A bag, containing a large quantity of linen belonging to Mr. Broughton, had been artfully taken out of the marquee. Moerree, who had offered to be a cutter of wood, had neither ſent any down ſince the firſt or ſecond day, nor had he returned the axes with which he had been furniſhed. This led me to ſuſpect he intended ſomething unfair ; of which, as well as of the theft, I acquainted Urripiah, who immediately replied he would go in queſt both of the axes and the linen. He ſeemed, by no means, to be ignorant of the theft, and requeſted I would apply to Whytooa, who, having in a more particular manner attached him- ſelf to Mr. Broughton, was the moſt proper per- * Produced from the ſtock originally eſtabliſhed by Cap- : tain Cook. t ſon 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 303 fon to exert himſelf on this occaſion; eſpecially as he had reaſon to believe the linen had been taken to a part of the country where Whytooa's influence was very conſiderable. Several ſhirts alſo had been, the preceding evening, reported miſſing from the people's tents ; but as circum- ſtances induced me to believe the inhabitants were little concerned in their removal, no means were purſued for their recovery. Mr. Brough- ton's linen was, however, too ſerious a loſs, and was a robbery too audacious to be paſſed over in filence; particularly, as it became evident the chiefs knew of the linen having been ſtolen be- fore we diſcovered the theft; which was ſtrongly ſuſpected to have been projećted by themſelves. Urripiah had prepared a heava, cloſe to the lines of the encampment, for our amºuſement; but, to ſhew my diſapprobation, I deemed it ex- pedient to forbid the performance, and told Ur- ripiah, that, whilſt his people condućted them- ſelves ſo treacherouſly, the leſs connexion there ſubſiſted between us the more agreeable it would be ; and that, unleſs the articles purloined were immediately returned, I ſhould be under the diſ- agreeable neceſſity, though greatly againſt my inclination, of enforcing the reſtoration of them by the adoption of very ſerious meaſures. On this he immediately departed; and about noon returned with one of the axes, and ſaid that he had \ 3O2 A voyage of Discovery * [JAN. had diſpatched people in ſearch of the linen, which he hoped would ſoon be found; but that Moer- ree would not give up the other axe, alledging as an excuſe for with-holding it, that he had left an adz with me to be altered, which when done and ſent to him, he would ſend back the other axe ; but this was a kind of bargaining with which I did not think proper to comply. The queen-mother, who was our gueſt, informed me that Pomurrey would be at the tents the next morning, and for that reaſon I deferred any fur- ther proceedings until his arrival. A favorable opportunity occurred in the even- ing to ſend on board the obſervatory, chronome- ters, inſtruments, together with a large quantity of lumber from the encampment; and appre- hending that the natives might attempt to com- mit other depredations on our moveable property, additional centinels were poſted; and, as a ſum- mary and immediate puniſhment when caught in the fact, ſeemed moſt likely to prevent in fu- ture a repetition of crime, orders were iſſued to ſhoot any perſon who might he found in the act of ſtealing; but, on no pretence, to fire without the preſence of an officer, who had the ſtrićteſt injunctions to be extremely circumſpect. On going on board the next morning, (Satur- day the 21ſt) I had the additional mortification to underſtand that a much more material circum- ... " - {tance 1792.] Roux D THE world. / 303 ftance than the loſs of the linen had occurred to interrupt the harmony which had ſo long ſub- fiſted. Towereroo the Sandwich iſlander had, in the courſe of the preceding night, found means to elope from the ſhip. Of this his intention, we had not for ſome time been free of ſuſpicion; but I did not like to impoſe abſolute confinement upon him without ſome proof. He had formed an attachment with the daughter of Poeno, the chief of Matavai, on whom, by examination, we now found he had laviſhly beſtowed nearly all he had poſſeſſed. This was of no ſmall value, for, independent of his abundant outfit in England, many preſents had been made him; to which his want of principle had added, by making too free with ſome valuable articles belonging to the gunner, with whom he had meſſed previouſly to his departure, Towereroo was a boy of weak intelle&t, of a fullen diſpoſition, and exceſſively obſtinate; and though his condition was ſo very fubordinate at the Sandwich iſlands, that there was little probability of his ſervices being impor- tant to us or to our countrymen hereafter; yet his example was a matter of ſuch conſequence, as to render it highly expedient that his return ſhould be inſiſted upon; left the crew might ſup- Poſe I had not ſufficient influence with the chieſ, to procure it, and ſome of them be tempted to abſcond 304 A voy Age of Discovery Las. abſcond from the veſſels. On my return on ſhore Pomurrey and his wives were at the encamp- ment, and ſeemed not at all ignorant of what had happened, therefore little explanation was neceſſary. A ſervant of Moerree being ſent for by Pomurrey, delivered the ſame meſſage Urri- piah had brought reſpecting the wood axe, and with which Pomurrey requeſted I would comply: I ſhewed him the adz, but inſiſted on the reſto- ration of the axe before it ſhould be returned. A ſhort conference now took place, on which he ſaid he would himſelf go for the wood axe, and gave directions that proper perſons ſhould be ſent in queſt of Towereroo, who he moſt ſolemnly pro- miſed ſhould be given up; and added, that he would immediately take meaſures for the reco- very of the linen, but requeſting, as Urripiah had before done, that I would reſort to Whytooa for this eſpecial purpoſe, as it lay in his particular de- partment. About noon Pomurrey returned with the wood axe, and the adz was accordingly re- ſtored to its owner. - '. In the preſence of Taow his father, his two brothers, Poatatou, and ſeveral other chiefs, Po- murrey inquired if, agreeably to my promiſe, I intended a diſplay of fire-works that evening; to which I replied in the negative, and explained, that when that promiſe was made there was no reaſon to expect the treatment we had ſince ex- perienced, 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 3O5 perienced, from thoſe whoſe duty it was to have obſerved a very different condućt with reſpect to the theft of the linen, and the elopement of To- wereroo; in both of which unpardonable tranſac- ‘tions many of the principal chiefs were materially concerned. Pomurrey inſtantly replied, that Towe- reroo ſhould the next day be brought back, either to the tents or to the Diſcovery ; and, on inter- rogating him reſpecting the linen, a very warm argument took place between the three brothers, in which Pomurrey in particular accuſed Why- tooa of a want of exertion and friendſhip on the occaſion. In the courſe of this debate, the name of Arreheah was frequently mentioned ; and ſo far as I could underſtand, Pomurrey ſeemed con- vinced that he was very principally concerned. This man was an inferior chief in Hapino, one of the diſtricts belonging to Whytooa, who, as well as Urripiah, had recommended himſelf to our notice; in conſequence of which, he had lately been a conſtant attendant on the encampment: a man, who had alſo been recommended by ſome of the chiefs to affiſt in cooking, had been obſerved with Arreheah to have ſlept near the marquee on the night the robbery was commit- ted. On this circumſtance being made known to Pomurrey, he replied, that one, if not both, were certainly guilty. The dinner being now ſerved, ended the debate; after which the three Vol. I U brothers 306 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. brothers fallied out in queſt of the ſtolen linen, and ſoon returned with the ſervant who had ab- ſconded. On his being examined he accuſed Arreheah as the thief; but being conſcious of the robbery, he had ficq, left he ſhould be ſuſ- pečted and puniſhed. This man's evidence al- though tending to acquit himſelf, as the prin- cipal, clearly proved him an accomplice ; and, not being without my ſuſpicions that he was in reality the thief, I ordered a halter to be put about his neck in terrorem, and ſent him on board the ſhip, there to be confined in irons; with the afurance, that if the linch was not reſtored, he ſhould certainly be hanged. A ſhort debate, nearly to the ſame purport, again took place between the three brothers, in which Whytood ſeemed much affected by Po- murrey's rebuke. As the thief was now known, i embraced this occaſion to inform the royal par- ty, that very conſiderable preſents were intended to have becn made to them and the ſeveral chiefs; but not one ſingle article would be preſented un- leſs Towereroo and Mr. Broughton's linen were forthcoming. On this they again departed, ſay- ing every thing ſhould be reſtored. The ſurf being tolerably ſmooth in the after- noon, the large working tent, with various other articles were ſent off; leaving the marquee, the guard's tent, and cannon, only to be cmbarked. Whilſt 1792.] RO UK D THE WORLD, 307 Whilſt thus employed, the chiefs had all, imper- ceptibly, withdrawn themſelves; towards ſun- ſet, moſt of the canoes that had been on the banks of the river were obſerved to be moving off, and the houſes on the oppoſite ſide, which had been fully inhabited, were intirely ſtripped and deſerted. We were ſoon given to under- ftand that the Erees and people were “mattow- ed,” that is, alarmed, becauſe I was angry; which intelligence a man named Boba was extremely urgent to communicate. He had, on the even- ing the linen was ſtolen, come over the river under a flimſy pretence, with which at the time I was by no means ſatisfied; and ſince then he ‘had not been ſeen. Suſpecting him to be an ac- ceſſary, I gave directions that he ſhould be ſecur- ed; and that the remaining canoe, which chanced to contain many of their moſt valuable articles, ſhould be detained ; that we might have ſome- thing in our power in caſe the chiefs ſhould have deſerted us, which I began to apprehend, as a general mattow ſeemed to have taken place. Mr. Broughton, who had been with the natives on the other ſide of the river, informed me that the principal cauſe of the maſtow, was the confine- ment of Boba ; and that they conceived, I had alſo confined the queen-mother, This good lady had been our conſtant companion, even in the abſence of her huſband; and was, on all occa- º II 2 ſions, 308 A voyAGE OF DIscovery [JAN. fions, very ſolicitous to imitate our manners. Having carried her politeneſs rather too far, in taking a few glaſſes more at dinner than was quite agreeable, ſhe had been ſleeping in the marquee moſt of the afternoon. On this infor- mation, I requeſted ſhe would inſtantly repair to Pomurrey, who, with ſeveral chiefs, and a large concourſe of the inhabitants, were aſſembled on the oppoſite ſhore of the river. She complied, though greatly againſt her inclination, ſaying ſhe well knew that I was the friend of her Pomurrey, and all the chiefs, and it was his and their buſi- meſs to come to me. This converſation took place at the river ſide, whilſt Pomurrey and the natives were accuſing me of detaining his wife, who, with all imaginable ſpirit contradićted the aſſertion. The crowd replied, ſhe was inſtructed by me to ſay ſo; aſſerting that I well underſtood their language. Matters thus ſituated I inſiſted ſhe ſhould croſs the river, with which at length ſhe complied, and was received on the oppoſite ſide with great demonſtrations of joy. On her aſſuring Pomurrey that I was ſtill his friend, and that I earneſtly wiſhed to confer with him on the unpleaſant circumſtances that had occurred, he attempted to come over the river, but was pre- vented by the crowd. On his aſſuring them his intentions were not to croſs, but to be ſufficiently near to underſtand me perfectly, he was allowed to 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD, 30g to advance a few paces, when he again queſtion- ed my pacific intentions, and whether I would confine him if he croſſed the river. After re- ceiving the moſt unequivocal aſſurances of a con- tinuance of my friendſhip, and his own perſonal liberty, he diſengaged himſelf from thoſe who forcibly attempted to ſtop him, and came over to us much againſt the general voice and opi- nion of the multitude, who murmured exceſ- ſively on the occaſion; but this ſhortly ſubſiding, his wives ſoon followed his example. I acquaint- ed Pomurrey with the detention of the canoe, and the man I had confined. The inſtant he ſaw it was Boba, he aſſured me he was innocent, and requeſted he might be releaſed ; and, as he had been arreſted on ſuſpicion only, I did not heſitate to comply with the requeſt of Pomurrey, who had gratified me exceedingly by the confi- dence he had ſo recently repoſed in my inte- grity. Our royal gueſts became perfeótly reconciled, ſpent the evening with us, and ſlept in the mar- quee. Early on the morning of Sunday the 22d they departed. Pomurrey informed me, he was then going to Oparre in queſt of Towereroo, who, it was reported, had ſecreted himſelf in the moun- tains of that diſtrict; that in the courſe of the day he would be taken, and that, with him, he would return to Matavai; he further added, that - - - U 3 Whytooa 3 J O A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. Whytooa was going in ſearch of the linen, which would likewiſe be reſtored. * It was an exceſſively mortifying refle&tion, now that we were in every reſpect ready for ſea, after having lived three weeks on terms of the ſtrićteſt amity with theſe good people, that juſt on the eve of our departure, they ſhould ſo condućt themſelves, as materially to incur our diſappro- bation and cenſure, and prevent our bidding them farewel with that cordiality and good-will, to which they were ſo highly intitled by their former good behaviour. Having nothing further to tranſa&t on ſhore, every thing was ſent on board excepting the marquee, at which, with a guard, Mr. Puget re- mained for the more eaſy communication with the chiefs, ſhould they be inclined to renew their viſits; as no one perſon of any diſtinétion had ap- peared fince the departure of Pomurrey in the morning. Mr. Broughton having ſtrolled over the river, found Whytooa in ſoft dalliance with his wife at home, inſtead of being in ſearch of the linen. Mr. Broughton invited them to the marquee, but Whytooa replied he was “mattow- ed.” After ſome perſuaſion he complied, and having come oppoſite the encampment, he re- queſted ſome aſſurance of friendſhip on my part; which being complied with, he conſented, and having gained about the middle of the river, he WalS 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD, 3 | 1 was compelled by the natives to return. Another converſation now took place; and on Mr. Brough- ton propoſing to remain with them during fºſy- fooa's abſence, he came over, and being ſoon re- conciled after his arrival, to his ſitcation, he ſent a ſervant to deſire Mr. Broughton would croſ; the river. On this occaſion Whytoca's wife ac- companied him, and we afterwards went all on board to dinner. On my enquiring, he ſaid Pomur- rey and Urripiah were at Oparre, but would return the inſtant Towereroo was taken. With reſpect to the linen I could gain no ſatisfactory account; and, as I wiſhed to enceurage him in the confi- dence he had manifeſted, I did not think it right to puſh this inquiry further ; wiſhing to detain him and his wife, in caſe their impriſonment hereafter ſhould be deemed neceſſary to effect our purpoſe ; but deſiſted from any further mea- ſures, until I ſhould ſee or hear ſomething of the other royal brothers. The canoe and goods we had arreſted the preceding evening now appearing to belong to a chief of Ulietea, who could not have had any concern in the late improper tranſ- actions, juſtice dićtated its reſtoration to thg proper owner, and direétions to that effect were accordingly given. - Neither Pomurrey nor Urripiah having arrived on the morning of Monday the 23d, Mr. Brough- ton propoſed that Hºhytooa and his wife, who U 4 Were 312 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. were ſtill with us, ſhould accompany him to Oparre, in order to procure an interview with Po- murrey, and learn how our affairs ſtood in that diſtrićt. To this Whytooa readily agreed, and whilſt the boat was preparing for their convey- ance, the royal females paid us a viſit. They ſaid Pomurrey was ſtill at Oparre, but would return to the ſhip the inſtant that Towereroo could be found. The ladies were immediately informed of Mr. Broughton's errand, and told, that, until his return, they were to remain on board. With this arrangement they ſeemed perfectly ſatisfied ; and from their mirth, and joking with each other as to their being carried to ſea, their reception in England, &c. &c. I began to conjecture that To- wereroo was in reality taken, though it was their pleaſure to keep me in ſuſpence. We did not long remain in this ſtate. About noon, the boat returned with the three royal brothers, and To- wereroo. Mr. Broughton met them on their way towards the ſhips, attended by a fleet of ca- noes, laden with every ſpecies of proviſions as preſents from the royal family and our ſeveral other friends, who all flocked on board with ſuch a profuſion of their various valuable commodi- ties, that unable to diſpoſe of their bounty, ſe- veral laden canoes returned to the ſhore. Pomurrey and Urripiah obſerved, on the deli. very of Towereroo, that they had now reſtored • *s every 1792.] ROUND THE WORJ.D. 3 13 every thing in which they conſidered I was par- ticularly intereſted, and that it was Whytooa's |buſineſs to recover the linen for Mr. Broughton. Whytooa proteſted that, if we could remain until the morning, it ſhould certainly be brought on board; but as we had been repeatedly inſtructed to place little reliance on aſſurances of this nature, had the wind been favorable, we ſhould not have waited to put his integrity to the teſt. Poatatou, with many other chiefs of the diſtant diſtrićts, were made extremely happy by the pre- ſents which each of them received; and, finding we were to ſail with the firſt favorable wind, took their leave in the evening, with much ap- parent regret for our departure; which was evi- dently increaſed by their being diſappointed of a ſecond diſplay of fire-works. From the inordi- nate love of pleaſure which theſe people poſſeſs, I do not believe it were poſſible to have cauſed, by any other means, ſo general and ſo great a de- gree of mortification. Many chiefs, and num- bers of the inhabitants, had come from the moſt diſtant parts of the iſland, and from Morea like- wife, for no other purpoſe than to gratify their curioſity, and to be preſent at the expected exhi- bition. Theſe, in particular, complained much of their diſappointment; to which I replied, their concern was by no means unpleaſant to me, as it gave me reaſon to hope it would operate to pre- WCIlt 314 a voyage of E) ISCOV ºf Y - [JAN. vent the cauſe of it in future; and that, if thefts, and other breaches of confidence had not been committed, and fanétioned, as I was confident they had been by the chiefs themſelves, I ſhould not have been under the painful neceſſity of de- nying them the promiſed entertainment, and we fhould have parted much better friends. On the arrival of another ſhip, I truſted, from this diſap- pointment, they would all be taught to condućt themſelves with more fidelity. Pomurrey and his wives remained on board all night. The next morning, Tueſday the 24th, brought no tidings of the linen. On reflecting that, without uſing rigorous meaſures, which, in all probability, would fall more on the innocent who were in our power, than on the guilty who were at a diſtance, there did not appear the moſt remote proſpect of regaining this property; and as we had now a favorable breeze from the eaſt- ward, and could ill afford a longer detention, about ten in the forenoon we ſailed out of the bay. Pomurrey and his wives were our gueſts until we were beyond the reefs: they were now pre- ſented with an affortment of valuables, which afforded them the higheſt ſatisfaction; and Po- murrey requeſting as a particular favor that they might be ſaluted on leaving the ſhip, they took a very friendly and affectionate leave, and were complimented agreeably to his wiſhes. Whytooa - had 1792.] RO UN D THE WORLD. 3 15 had alſo accompanied Mr. Broughton in the Chatham; who, after we were out, brought him on board the Diſcovery, with an affortment of fuch articles as he conceived Whytooa intitled to, for his hoſpitable attention, and the large quan- tity of proviſions, &c. &c. which he had ſupplied, without having as yet received the leaſt return: but as I had repeatedly declared Whytooa ſhould receive no preſent, unleſs the linen was reſtored, my ultimate deciſion was now requeſted. On conſidering, that poſſibly it might not have been in his power to recover the linen, and that equity demanded he ſhould be paid for the ſupplies which he had furniſhed, I conſented to his re- ceiving in return, ſuch articles as were deemed fairly equal in point of value; but he was not preſented with any thing from me, although I had promiſed him ſeveral valuable implements. Theſe were again enumerated, the reaſon of their being with-held fully explained, and ſhewn to have ariſen from his not having ačted towards Mr. Broughton with that propriety which had been obſerved in the condućt of his royal brothers towards me. - I am well aware that our viſit to this country will fill the inquiſitive mind with the expectation of acquiring much additional information, rela- tive to a people whoſe ſituation and condition have been long the ſubjects of curious inveſtiga- tion; 3 6 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN, tion; but the ſhortneſs of our ſtay, and various concurring circumſtances afforded little opportu- mity to gratify ſuch deſires. The veneration theſe people entertain for thc names of their ſovereigns, has been already very. juſtly related by Mr. Anderſon. But no example, , I believe, had then appeared to that judicious obſerver, of the extent to which this reſpect is carried. On Otoo's acceſſion to the Maro,” a very conſiderable alteration took place in their language, particularly in the proper names of all the chiefs, to which however it was not ſolcly confined, but extended to no leſs than forty or fifty of the moſt common words which occur in converſation, and bearing not the leaſt affinity whatever to the former expreſſions. This new language every inhabitant is under the neceſſity of adopting; as any negligence or contempt of it is puniſhed with the greateſt ſe- verity. Their former expreſſions were, however, retained in their recollection; and for our better communication, were, I believe, permitted to be uſed in converſation with us, without incurring diſpleaſure. Pomurrey however would frequently correct me on my accidentally uſing the former mode of expreſſion, ſaying, I knew it was wrong, and ought not to practiſe it. Were ſuch a per- nicious innovation to take place, generally, at the * Or girdle of royalty. --- e arbitrary 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 31 arbitrary will of the ſovereigns throughout the South-Sca Iſlands, it would be attended with in- ſurmountable difficulties to ſtrangers; but it ap- pears to be a new regulation, and, as yet, con- fined to theſe iſlands, or it would be impoſſible to reconcile the affinity which has been hitherto found to ſubſiſt in the language of different parts of the Great South-Sea nation. The new-fa- ſhioned words produce a very material difference in thoſe tables of comparative affinity which have been conſtructed with ſo much attention and labour; and may, poſſibly, when the reaſons for the alteration are known and developed, be a matter of intereſting political inquiry. This, however, required more leiſure, and a more inti- mate knowledge of the language, than I poſſeſſ- ed. Circumſtances of greater importance to the expediting the various ſervices here, which the grand object of our voyage demanded, and on which my mind was every hour anxiouſly en- gaged; augmentcd by the difficulties we had to encounter, in the new modification of ſo many terms, rendered moſt of my inquiries ineffectual. Theſe perplexities and diſadvantages were alſo materially increaſed, by thic difficulty of obtain- ing the truth from a race who have a conſtant deſire to avoid, in the ſlighteſt degree, giving of- fence; inſomuch, that, on the leaſt appearance of diſpleaſure, even in converſation, to diſengage themſelves 818 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. themſelves from any ſuch inconvenience, they would often, by that extenſive and ſpacious comprehenſion, which their language admits of, ſeemingly ſo qualify, what they before had aſ- ſerted, as to contradićt, according to our accepta- tion, a poſitive matter of fact; or, what amounted to nearly the ſame thing, a completely different conſtruction was by us very frequently put on a ſecond converſation, from that which we had conceived from, or had attributed to, the firſt. Had we been more competent linguiſts, we might, in all probability, have found both their modes of expreſſion tending to the ſame point, and differing only in the figurative relation of the circumſtances, to which theſe people are much accuſtomed. This deception I have more than once experienced, and have on reflection, thus re- conciled the apparent incongruity. Such, and various other important circumſtances muſt ever occur, to render the acquirement of knowledge in the language, manners, and cuſtoms, of new- ly-diſcovered countries (beyond a certain ſuper- ficial extent) a buſineſs of much labour and ſtudy, although aided by a ſeries of minute obſervations. Under ſuch evident diſadvantages, how far my abilities might or might not have empowered me to direét ſuch inquiries to effect, had time and other objects permitted, muſt ſtill remain to be proved. I ſhall therefore reſign the palm to thoſe 1792.] R (, UND THE WORLD , 339 thoſe gentlemen who have preceded me, and to whom the world is indebted for many pertinent and judicious obſervations contained in their gc- neral deſcription of this country. Notwithſtanding I muſt concur with Mr. An- derſon in opinion, that much information re- mains to be acquired which would be extremely acceptable to the contemplative mind, yet it re- mains with me to record faithfully thoſe circum- ſtances only which aroſe in our tranſactions and intercourſe with theſe people. - The changes which have taken place in their government, ſo far as I have been able to under- {tand from the chiefs, with ſuch other matters worthy attention as have fallen under my own immediate obſervation, I ſhall proceed to relate; as the preceding narration would be incomplete without ſuch an explanation. We have become acquainted by ſubſequent viſitors, that, ſhortly after the laſt departure of Captain Cook from theſe iſlands, conſiderable diſputes had ariſen between Maheine the uſurping chief of Morea, and Pomurrey (then Oſoo) in ſome of which wars (for there had been many) Maheine was joined by Towha, and other chiefs of the weſtern diſtrićts of Otaheite; by which means, for a confiderable ſpace of time, Pomurrey was materially worſted, and his own diſtričts laid intirely waſte. Thus his Majeſty's benevolent intentions 320 A voy. AGE OF DIscovery [JAN. intentions of adding to the comforts of theſe people, have been nearly fruſtrated. Moſt of the animals, plants and herbs, which had cauſed Cap- tain Cook ſo much anxiety and trouble to depoſit here, have fallen a ſacrifice to the ravages of war. The black cattle were carried to Morea, where they ſtill remain ; and having bred, are now five in number, four cows and a bull. The latter has very unfortunately received a hurt in his loins, which renders him an intire cripple; conſequently their further propagation will be at an end unleſs ſome additional aſſiſtance is afforded. In the midſt of theſe hoſtile engagements, Po- murrey married the queen-mother, a near relation of his moſt inveterate enemy Maheime. This lady having taken a very material part in the ad- vantageous change of Pomurrey's government, I ſhall obtrude a few lines as a ſketch of her cha- raćter, and alſo that of Fier rete her ſiſter, and conjugal partner in the royal affection. - The queen-mother, although deſtitute of any pretenſions to beauty, and having in her perſon a very maſculine appearance, has yet, in her ge- neral deportment, ſomething exceſſively pleaſing and engaging; free from any auſterity or pride, ſhe is endued with a comparative elegance of manners, which plainly beſpeaks her deſcent, and the high ſituation in which ſhe is placed. Al- though her figure exhibited no external charms of 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 321 of feminine ſoftneſs, yet great complacency and gentleneſs were always conſpicuous; indicating, in the moſt unequivocal manner, a mind poſſeſ- ſing, and alone actuated by thoſe amiable quali- ties which moſt adorn the human race. All her aćtions ſeemed directed to thoſe around her with an unalterable evenneſs of temper, and to be guided by a pure diſintereſted benevolence. Self, which on moſt occaſions is the governing prin- ciple in the conduct of theſe iſlanders, with her was totally diſregarded; and indeed, ſuch was her very amiable diſpoſition, that it counterba- lanced any diſadvantages ſhe might labour under in a deficiency of perſonal attractions. The portrait of Fier rete on canvas would moſt probably be generally thought intitled to a pre- ference ; yet ſhe appeared by no means to poſſeſs either mental endowments, or other excellent qualities, in the ſame degree with the queen- mother; if ſhe had them, they were latent, and required ſome particular exertion to bring them into action. Her ſoftneſs and effeminacy af- forded her ſome advantage over her ſiſter; yet there was a ſhyneſs, want of confidence and man- ner in her general demeanor, that evinced her motives to be leſs diſintereſted. We were how- ever led to believe, that ſhe was not deſtitute of the amiable qualities, though to us they did not appear ſo conſpicuous as in the character of the * . Vol. I. X queen- 3.22. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. queen-mother. Of the two ladies, Fier rete was now the favorite of Pomurrey, at leaſt we had every reaſon to think ſo by the general tenor of his conduct. Notwithſtanding this preference, he was obſerved in ſeveral inſtances to abide im- plicitly by the advice and opinion of the queen- mother, and to treat her with great affection and regard; who in return never appeared jealous or diſſatisfied at the marked attention, or evident partiality, with which her ſiſter Fier rete was treated by Pomurrey. In conſequence of the very ſuperior rank and condition of theſe two ladies, they poſſeſſed pri- vileges which I had never before ſeen conferred on any of the women of the Great South-Sea nation; as they were not only permitted to eat of all the good things of the country, but al- lowed to partake of them in company with men; as well the chiefs of the iſland as ourſelves; and of the identical diſhes at any repaſt of which men had eaten, without incurring diſpleaſure or diſ- grace ; theſe were honors to which we had rea- ſon to believe no other females of the iſland could aſpire. . . Theſe two ladies, with the deceaſed Matooara Mahow, were the children of a ſiſter of Maheime, and his only near relations. Mahow I confidered to be the ſame perſon mentioned by Captain Cook, under the name of Tiareetaboonooa; as, on ..Qllº 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 323 our firſt arrival, he was introduced to me by the name of Areetaboomooa, which appellation was almoſt immediately dropped, and he was after- wards called Mahow ; occaſioned moſt likely by the recent alteration in their language, which has before been ſtated to have taken place on the acceſſion of the young king Otao. * As Maheine was an Ereeoi, whoſe advanced age precluded the expectation of his having chil- dren, little doubt was entertained that his con- ſequence and power would ſoon deſcend to his family, which had become more firmly attached to the Otaheitean authority by the intermarriage of the late Matooara Mahow with Pomurrey's youngeſt ſiſter. This connection appears to have been an important political meaſure, to inſure a permanent eſtabliſhment of peace and tranquil- lity between the two iſlands, on the conqueſt or death of Maheime. The event was however long looked for before it arrived, for we underſtood it did not happen until about fifteen months pre- vious to our arrival; at which time Maheine was killed in a battle fought at Athoora by him and ſome of the weſtern chiefs, againſt the partizans of Pomurrey, who, I believe, then for the firſt time came off vićtorious. 3Maheine having fallen in this conflićt, and Towha being dead, little was neceſſary to com- plete the conqueſt, which was finally accom- X 2 pliſhed 324 A vox AGE of Discovery [JAN, pliſhed by the excurſion of the Bounty's people in a veſſel they had conſtructed from the timber of the bread fruit tree; and as good or bad for- tune is generally attended with corroborating events, other circumſtances intervened to foſter and indulge the ambition of Pomurrey. At this time Whyeddooa the king of Tiarabou died, leav- ing only a very diſtant relation to aſſume his name and government; who was by Pomurrey and his adherents obliged to relinquiſh all pre- tenſions to ſuch honors, and with the people of Tiarabou to acknowledge Pomurrey's youngeſt ſon as their chief, under the ſupreme authority of his eldeſt ſon Otoo; which on their aſſenting to, the youth aſſumed the name of Whyeadooa as a neceſſary appendage to the government. By this acquiſition it ſhould appear, they have more ef- fe&tually eſtabliſhed a firm and laſting peace amongſt themſelves than has been enjoyed for a long ſeries of years; and to inſure this ineſti- mable bleſfing to their dominions, the royal bro- thers have ſo diſpoſed themſelves as completely to watch over and protect the two young princes during their minority. . . Urripiah, the next brother to Pomurrey, having acquired the reputation of a great warrior, has iaken up his reſidence on the borders of Tiarabou, to watch the condućt of thoſe people in their al- legiance to his nephew Wyeadooa ; and on the leaſt 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 325 leaſt appearance of diſaffection or revolt, to be at hand for purſuing ſuch meaſures as may be re- quired to bring them back to their obedience. Whytooa, the next brother, reſides for the like reaſon at Oparre, near the young monarch ; and Pomurrey with his wives has retired to Morea, where the inhabitants are, in all reſpects, perfectly reconciled; firmly attached to his intereſt ; and ready to afford him and his children every ſup- port and aſſiſtance they may require. From the relative ſituation of this iſland with Otaheite, there is but little probability that Pomurrey could long remain ignorant of any diſſentions that might take place, or that he would be prevented afford- ing ſuch ſuccour as the nature of the occaſion might demand. There is yet a fourth brother whoſe inſignifi- cance has hitherto precluded his name, which is Tapahoo, from appearing in any of our tranſac- tions with theſe worthy people. Although in the poſſeſſion of a very conſiderable property, Tapa- hoo ſeems little regarded by his family, and leſs eſteemed by his people. This want of reſpect is greatly, and poſſibly wholly, to be attributed to a natural imbecillity of mind; as, to all appear- ance, he is a young man of an exceedingly weak and trifling character. On the late deceaſe of Mahow, his daughter by Pomurrey's ſiſter ſucceeded to the ſovereignty X 3 of 326 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY '[JAN. of Morea, under the ſupreme authority of her couſin Otoo. To this young princeſs Pomurrey became regent, and in courſe, the inhabitants of Morea were intirely at his command. In con- ſequence of Pomurrey's commexion with Mahow's family, his ſon Otoo in right of his mother was acknowledged as the ſupreme ſovereign of Hua- heine ; and Matuarro the king of that iſland, had conſented to the ſuperiority of Otoo over him, as “ Aree Maro Eoora ;” but that he Matuarro was “Arce de Hoi.” w Omai having died without children, the houſe which Captain Cook had built for him, the lands that were purchaſed, and the horſe which was ſtill alive; together with ſuch European com- modities as remained at his death, all deſcended to Matuarro, as king of the iſland; and when his majeſty is at home, Omai's houſe is his conſtant reſidence. From Matuarro we learned, that Omai was much reſpected, and that he frequently af- forded great entertainment to him, and the other chiefs, with the accounts of his travels, and de- ſcribing the various countries, objects, &c. that had fallen under his obſervation; and that he died univerſally regretted and lamented. His death, as well as that of the two New Zealand boys left with him by Captain Cook, was occa- fioned by a diſorder that is attended by a large ſwelling in the throat, of which very few reco- - ver, 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 327 ver, but die a ſlow lingering death. During the latter part of our ſtay ſeveral perſons were pointed out who ſeemed much afflićted with this fatal malady, particularly thoſe belonging to Tiarabou, who ſaid the diſeaſe had been imported by a Spa- niſh veſſel which had anchored near the ſouth part of Otaheite. Otoo, in right of his grandmother by his fa- ther's ſide, on the death of Mowree will claim the ſovereignty of Ulietea and Otaha. Mowree, who is brother to Pomurrey's mother, is an Ereeoi of an advanced age. He ſeemed extremely fond of Otoo, and proud of his ſucceeding him in the government of thoſe iſlands; ſaying, that, at pre- ſent, there were two ſovereigns, that “ Maw ta Tarta,” but when he ſhould die then there would be but one, meaning Otoo. This expreſſion, in its literal ſignification, means “tº eat the Man;” the idea, however, which in this ſenſe it is in- tended to convey, is to point out thoſe, whoſe rank and authority entitle them to preſide at hu- man ſacrifices; a power which at preſent is poſ- ſeſſed only by Mowree and Otoo. - In conſequence of the extenſive dominion that has devolved upon this young monarch, he is not now diſtinguiſhed by the title of Aree de Hoi, but by one which is conſiderably more eminent and comprehenſive; ſince they ſay there may be many Arees de Hoi, but there can be but one Aree Marq X 4 Eoora; * 328 A VOYAGE OF Discovery |[JAN. Eoora ; which means the chief of the red fea- thered Maro; and under which title, Otoo's authority is acknowledged in Otaheite, Morea, Mattea, Tetero, Tupea-mannoo, and Huaheine. But the people of Ulietea and Otaha, ſeem much averſe to this ſubmiſſion; and it does not appear, that even Mowree himſelf has much influefice in thoſe iſlands, notwithſtanding that he is their ac- knowledged ſovereign. Since the death of Opoony, the government of the iſlands under his late au- thority appears to have been ill adminiſtered ; the inhabitants having been very turbulent and much diſpoſed to anarchy: and in conſequence of the diſinclination which the people of theſe iſlands have manifeſted to ſubſcribe to the ſu- preme authority of Otoo, an expedition was in contemplation from Otaheite, to enforce the power of the Aree Maro Eoora over them, and little doubt was entertained of its ſucceſs. Ano- ther favorite objećt was the annexing to Otoo's preſent dominions by conqueſt, (for no right was ſet up) the iſlands of Bolabola, Mowrooa, and Tapi, which, ſince the death of Opoony, had been governed by his daughter, and were ſaid, in a great meaſure, to have loſt their former high re- putation as a martial and warlike nation. Pomurrey and his brothers having procured from the veſſels which had lately viſited Otaheite, ſeveral muſkets and piſtols, they conſidered them- M w ſelves 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 329 ſelves invincible; and the acquiring of new poſ- ſeſſions for Otoo, now ſeemed to occupy the whole of their ſtudy and attention. They were extremely ſolicitous that I ſhould contribute to their ſucceſs by augmenting their number of fire- arms, and adding to their ſtock of ammunition. Of the latter I gave Pomurrey a ſmall quantity; but of the former I had none to diſpoſe of, even if I had ſeen no impropricty in complying with his requeſt. Finding there was no proſpect of increaſing their armory, they requeſted that I would have the goodneſs to conquer the territo- ries on which they meditated a deſcent, and hav- ing ſo done, to deliver them up to Otoo ; and as an excuſe for their ſubjugation, inſiſted that it was highly eſſential to the comfort and happineſs of the people at large, that over the whole group of theſe iſlands there ſhould be only one ſove- reign. On ſatisfying them that the iſlands in queſtion were quite out of my route, and that I had no leiſure for ſuch an enterprize, Pomurrey, in the moſt earneſt manner requeſted, that on my return to England I would, in his name, ſolicit his Majeſty to order a ſhip with proper force to be immediately ſent out, with directions, that if all thoſe iſlands were not ſubjected to his power before her arrival, ſhe was to conquer them for Otoo ; who, he obſerved, I well knew would ever be a ſteady friend to King George and the Eng- liſh. 330. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. liſh. This requeſt was frequently repeated, and he did not fail to urge it in the moſt preſſing manner at our parting. . . . * I cannot take leave of my friend, for to ſuch an epithet from me Pomurrey's conduct juſtly en- titles him, without adverting to the alteration which ſeemed to have taken place in his charac- ter, ſince my former viſits to this country. At that time, he was not only conſidered as a timid, but a very weak prince; on this occaſion, how- ever, he did not appear deficient either in dif- cernment, or intrepidity; although it muſt be acknowledged his fears were exceedingly awaken- ed at the diſplay of our fire-works, and that he always appeared to regard fire-arms with a con- ſiderable degree of terror; which poſſibly might ariſe from his knowledge of their deſtrućtive powers, whilſt at the ſame time he remained ig- norant of the extent to which they were capable of doing execution; but this deſcription of wea- pons out of the queſtion, we had reaſon to be- lieve his courage was equal to that of his neigh- bours, of which he certainly gave an undeniable proof by joining our party alone and unarmed at the encampment; in direčt oppoſition to the counſel and apprehenſions of his ſurrounding countrymen. On former occaſions, I had alſo confidered his general charaćter to be haughty, auſtere, and combined with much low cunning. When 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. , 33 lº When he condeſcended to ſpeak, or converſe, which was not frequent, little or no information could be derived; whilſt the queſtions he aſked in return, did not tend to the acquiſition of uſe- ful knowledge. His conduct and deportment on the preſent occaſion, were extremely different; and, when compared with that of his aſſociates, were marked with an evident ſuperiority, expreſ- five of the exalted ſituation he filled; and indi- cated that he poſſeſſed a juſt knowledge of him- ſelf, and an open, generous, and feeling heart. In converſation, there were few from whom bet- ter information could be acquired; nor was he now deficient in directing his obſervations and enquiries to uſeful and important objećts. For this purpoſe only, he would remain whole days in our working tents, obſerving with the ſtrićteſt attention the different tranſactions going forward; and frequently interrupting the mechanics, to require explanations of their ſeveral operations. The whole tenor of his behaviour towards us was ſo uniformly correót and meritorious, that, on his taking leave, I could not reſiſt making him, and his wives, ſuch acknowledgments in uſeful arti- cles, as he conceived they could have no poffible claim to ; and ſuſpecting I was about to make ſome addition, he caught my arm, expreſſed how highly repaid and gratified they were with what they had received, and obſerved, as I was going to 332 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. to viſit many other countries where ſuch things would be equally valuable; I ought to be careful and oeconomical. How far theſe diſintereſted ſentiments had ac- tuated the condućt of the royal party in all their former tranſactions, is not eaſy to aſcertain; but certain it is, they took great pains to keep up the value of our commodities, and, by their own example, eſtabliſhed the price of three large hogs, weighing from an hundred to an hundred and fifty and two hundred pounds each, at an axe ; under which they deſired we would not part with our axes; and would frequently admoniſh us, when they conſidered we were about to pay ex- travagantly for our purchaſes. In our traffic, axes were the moſt valuable; next to theſe, red cloth, and all kinds of European linen ; files, knives, and fiſhing hooks, were in great requeſt; as were ſciſſars and looking-glaſſes by the ladies; nails were of little value, and ſuch things as were only of an ornamental nature were accepted with indifference, red feathers excepted, which I be- lieve would ſtill find a ready market. So important are the various European imple- ments, and other commodities, now become to the happineſs and comfort of theſe iſlanders, that I cannot avoid reflecting with. Captain Cook on the very deplorable condition to which theſe good People on a certainty muſt be reduced, ſhould t t their 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 333 their communication with Europeans be ever at an end. The knowledge they have now acquired of the ſuperiority and the ſupply with which they have been furniſhed of the more uſeful im- plements, have rendered theſe, and other Euro- pean commodities, not only cfſentially neceſſary to their common comforts, but have made them regardleſs of their former tools and manufactures, which are now growing faſt out of uſe, and, I may add, equally out of remembrance. Of this we had convincing proof in the few of their bone, or ſtone tools, or utenſils, that were ſeen amongſt them; thoſe offered for ſale were of rude work- manſhip, and of an inferior kind, ſolely intended for our market, to be purchaſed by way of curio- ſity. I am likewiſe well convinced, that, by a very ſmall addition to their preſent ſtock of Eu- ropean cloth, the culture of their cloth plant, which now ſeems much neglected, will be in- tirely diſregarded, and they will rely upon the precarious ſupply which may be obtained from accidental viſitors, for this and many others of the moſt important requiſites of ſocial life. Under theſe painful conſiderations, it mani- feſtly appears that Europeans are bound by all the laws of humanity, regularly to furniſh thoſe wants which they alone have created; and to af. ford the inhabitants from time to time fupplies of ſuch important uſeful articles as have been al- ready 334 A voy A.G.E of DIscovery [AN. ready introduced, and which having excluded their own native manufactures, are, in moſt re- ſpects, become indiſpenſably neceſſary to their whole oeconomy of life: in return for which a valuable conſideration would be received in pro- viſions and refreſhments, highly beneficial to the traders who may viſit the Pacific Ocean. The various manufactures in iron and in cloth have become ſo eſſentially requiſite to their com- mon concerns, that inſtead of theſe commodities. being reduced in their value by the frequent viſits of Europeans, or their ſupplies of food and re- freſhments being leſs plentiful in return, we were ſerved with every article in the greateſt profuſion. Six hogſheads of very fine pork were cured; and had we been better provided with ſalt, we might have ſecured ten times that quantity; and ſailed with a large ſupply for preſent uſe, which com- prehended as many live hogs and vegetables, as we could find room to diſpoſe of; the whole pro- cured at leaſt 200 per cent. cheaper than on any of Captain Cook's viſits, notwithſtanding the re- cent departure of the Pandora. \ * Great alteration has taken place in the military operations of theſe people. On our firſt diſco- very of theſe iſlands their wars were principally of a maritime nature; but at preſent it ſhould ſeem they were conducted in a very different manner. For although ſome of our gentlemen ºr - extended 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 335 extended their excurſions to a conſiderable diſ- tance, not a ſingle war canoe was ſeen belonging to Otaheite. I had much converſation with Ur- ripiah on this ſubject; from whom I learned, that in their late conteſts they had found them ſo un- manageable, particularly when the wind blew at all ſtrong, that they had intirely given them up, and now carried on their enterprizes by land, uſing the larger ſort of their common canoes, when their wars were offenſive, to convey them to the place of their deſtination, which was ge- nerally effected under cover of the night, or in dark rainy weather. The youth of Otoo authoriſes us to ſay little more, than that he bore every appearance of be- coming a very promiſing man. Some circum- ſtances attendant on this young monarch were ſo very peculiar and extraordinary, as to make a few obſervations indiſpenſable. Amongſt the firſt was the curious reſtriction which prohibited his entering any of our habitations. His father, when Otoo, and king of the iſland, was under no ſuch interdićtion; but, as frequently as his inclina- tion prompted, viſited our ſhips and tents with- out attaching the inconvenience which would now have fallen upon the people had the young king done the ſame. Nor was the grandfather Taow then treated with that degree of obedience and reſpect, which is at preſent paid to him on all 336 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. all occaſions. The origin of the above myſterious reſtraint, or the reaſoning on which it has been founded, I could not ſatisfactorily learn. The reſult, however, of my enquiries on this head induces me to believe, that a ceremony very ſimi- lar to the Natche of the Friendly iſlands deſcribed by Captain Cook, on Poulahou's ſon being per- mitted to eat in company with his father, will be performed here. This ceremony will occupy a conſiderable ſpace of time, after which he will no longer be carried on men's ſhoulders, but be at liberty like others to walk about ; but when this was to take place in reſpect of Otoo, I could not diſcover; for as often as the queſtion was put, ſo often the period when the event was to take place varied. It was likewiſe very remarkable, that we never ſaw any perſon of conſequence or reſpectability about the young monarch. His neareſt relations, though they paid all reſpect to his high office, did not appear to regard or con- verſe with him ; and thoſe whoſe duty it was to attend him on his journies between Oparre and our encampment, were ſervants from the loweſt order of the people. Amongſt theſe was a man named Peterrah, who apparently was avery ſhrewd," ſenſible fellow, on whoſe ſhoulders the young king never rode, but who, on all occaſions ačted as meſſenger, and bore no higher office than that of a butler, or upper ſervant. I had originally taken 1792.] ROUNT) THE WORLID. 337 taken this man for a prieſt and ſort of preceptor; but, on repeated enquiries, they always pointed to my ſteward as bearing the ſame office with that of Peterrah. Much encomium, and with great juſtice, has been beſtowed on the beauty of the female inha- bitants of this country. I cannot avoid acknow- ledging how great was the diſappointment I ex- perienced, in conſequence of the early impreſſion I had received of their ſuperior perſonal endow- ments. The natives themſelves freely admit the alteration, which in a few years has taken place, and ſeem to attribute much of the cauſe to the lamentable diſeaſes introduced by European viſi- tors, to which many of their fineſt women, at an early period of life, have fallen ſacrifices. Beauty in this country, eſpecially amongſt the women, is a flower that quickly bloſſoms, and as quickly fades: like the perſonal accompliſhments of the Creoles of America, theirs ſoon arrive at matu- rity, remain but a ſhort time ſtationary, and as rapidly decay. The extreme deficiency of female beauty on theſe iſlands makes it ſingularly remark- able, that ſo large a proportion of the crew be- longing to the Bounty, ſhould have become ſo infatuated as to ſacrifice their country, their ho- nor, and their lives, to any female attachments at Otaheite. The objects of their particular regard, Vol. I. . Y by 338 A VOYAGE OF DISCO W ERY [JAN, by whom they have children, we frequently ſaw. Whatever ſuperiority they may be entitled to from their mental accompliſhments, we had no opportunity of aſcertaining; but with reſpect to their perſonal attractions, they were certainly not ſuch as we ſhould have imagined could poſſibly have tempted Engliſhmen to ſo unpardonable a breach of their duty; nor were any of the wo- men they ſelected, perſons of the leaſt power or conſequence in the iſland t The European animals and plants depoſited here by Captain Cook, and other navigators, with the hope of their future increaſe, I have already had occaſion to regret, had been almoſt intirely deſtroyed in the late conflićts of the contending - parties. My concern at this circumſtance was greatly augmented, not only by my having little in my power with which I could replace them, but in the confidence of their now ſucceeding could I have furniſhed a ſupply; as the recent alteration which has taken place in the govern- ment, afforded reaſonable grounds to believe that, whatever I might have beſtowed on the preſent occaſion, would have been carefully protećted. To the race of animals, I could add but two Cape geeſe and a gander. We planted ſome vine cut- tings that had flouriſhed extremely well on board; with ſome orange and lemon trees; and an affort- ‘. ment 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 339 ment of garden ſeeds; but as nature has been ſo very bountiful in the variety of vegetables ſhe has beſtowed on this country, the natives ſeem to poſſeſs little deſire for any addition; and, if a judgment is to be formed, by the deplorable ſtate in which we found the ſeveral ſpots where foreign plants and ſeeds had been depoſited, we had little reaſon to be ſanguine in the ſucceſs of our gar- dening. Nor do I believe ſuch attempts will ever ſucceed until ſome Europeans ſhall remain on the iſland, and, by the force of their example, excite in the inhabitants a deſire of cultivating the ſoil by their manual labour, to which at preſent they are almoſt ſtrangers. The ava, and the cloth plant in a ſmall pro- portion, are the only vegetables which the Ota- heiteans take the leaſt trouble to cultivate. Some few indifferent ſhaddocks, a little tolerably good maize, a few pods of the capſicon, and ſome very coarſe radiſhes, were the only produćtions I ſaw from the various and nunnerOuS vegetable exotics, that, from time to time, have been introduced into this iſland. The milk of goats not having been appropri- ated to any uſe, and the animal not being ſuffi- ciently fat for the taſte of theſe people, they have fallen into diſrepute, and become ſcarce. I col- lected, however, a ſufficient number to eſtabliſh a Y 2 breed 340 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN, breed of thoſe animals on the Sandwich iſlands, in caſe I ſhould there find them acceptable to the inhabitants. The few aſtronomical and nautical obſerva- tions, here made, tending only to our own uſeful and neceſſary purpoſes, will conclude our tranſ- aćtions at Otaheite, and are as under, viz. Eighteen ſets of meridian ob- ſervations of the zenith diſtances of the ſun and ſtars, gave the latitude of the obſervatory by their mean reſult tºmºsºmºr 17° 30' 20/ Its longitude, by the chrono- meter, allowing the Duſky bay rate, to the 19th of January at Il GYOI). Gºgº tºº tºº 200 58 Its longitude to the ſame time, allowing the Portſmouth rate 211 18 Its longitude by eighteen ſets of diſtances, by my ſextants, of a sº, caſt of her tºº, — 210 31 53 Its true longitude, as determin- ed by Captain Cook — 21 O 24 [5. By our obſervations made at the obſervatory the firſt day, viz. the 7th of January, on allow- ing the Duſky bay rate, the chronometer gave the longitude 209° 55'45", from which day to the 19th inſtant incluſive, being twelve days obſerva- tlOn3. 1792.] {{OUND THE WORLD. 34 1 tions of equal altitudes, it was found gaining at the rate of 4" 2" per day, and faſt of mean time at Grecmwich, on the 20th at noon, 31' 42" 40". Allowing the chronometer this error, and the above rate of going ſince we diſcovered the iſland of Oparre, the difference of the longitude between it and point Venus, will by ſuch means be 5°14'45" weſt, and conſequently its longitude, by that mode of calculating, would be 2 15° 39'; my ob- {ervations however place it in 215° 58' 20"; the mean between the two 215° 48' 40", I ſhould fuppoſe can be liable to little, if any error; and as ſuch I ſhall adopt it for the true longitude of that iſland. This is further authoriſed on find- ing, that by nearly the ſame number of obſerva- tions, made with the ſame inſtruments at point Venus, and the ſun on the ſame ſide the moon as when the obſervations were taken off Oparre, I placed that point 7° 38' to the eaſtward of the truth. Mr. Arnold's chronometer on board the Chat- ham, when taken to the obſervatory, was found to be faſt of mean time at Greenwich on the 20th of January at noon 2° 10' 25° 40", and to be gaining at the rate of 10'51", 24" per day. The variation of the magnetic needle, with all our cards, and compaſſes, in fifteen ſets of azi- muths, varied from 7° 30' to 5° 30' eaſt varia- Y 3 tion, 342. A vox AGE of Discovery [JAN. tion, giving their mean reſult 6°12', and the vertical inclination as under, Marked end, North face Eaſt, 30° 15' Ditto ditto Weſt, 31 13 Ditto South, face Eaſt, 30 43 Ditto ditto Weſt, 30 47 The mean vertical inclination of the ſouth point of the dipping needle 30 53 CHAPTER 1792.] Round THE worLD. 3.43 BOOK THE SECOND. y ISIT THE SANDw ICH ISLANDS; PROCEED TO SUR- V EY THE COAST OF NEW ALBION ; PASS THROUGH AN INLAND NAVIGATION: TRANSACTIONS AT Noor KA ; ARRIVE AT PORT ST. FRANCISCO. CHAPTER I. Paſſage to the Sandwich Iſlands—Arrive off Owhyhee—Viſit from Tianna and other Chiefs —Leave Towereroo at Owhyhee—Proceed to Leeward—Anchor in Whytete Bay in Waohoo— Arrival at Attowai. - UR friends having quitted us ſoon after noon on Tueſday the 24th, we direéted our courſe to the northward, and notwithſtanding we had now been nearly ten months abſent from England, it was not until the preſent moment that our voyage could be cofidered as commenc- ed; having now for the firſt time pointed our veſſels' heads towards the grand object of the ex- pedition. I cannot help mentioning that I felt, on this occaſion, very confiderable regret for the little progreſs we had hitherto made. It was now within a few days of the time I had calcu- Y 4 lated, 344 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. lated, agreeably to the arrangements in England, that we ſhould be quitting the Sandwich iſlands which were yet at the remote diſtance of nearly eight hundred leagues. One ſatisfactory reflec- tion however was, that we had not been retarded by any miſpent time, or inexcuſable delays; and that although a month had been devoted to the examination of the ſouth-weſt part of New Hol- land, that period was, without doubt, not unpro- fitably employed. Adverſe winds, and the in- different ſailing of the veſſels had principally ope- rated to prevent our being further advanced. A light eaſtwardly breeze brought us in the afternoon within ſight of Titeroa, and at ſun-ſet that iſland bore by compaſs from N. by W. to N. by E.; Otaheite S.E. to S.; and Morea S. S.W. to S.W. Our progreſs was ſo ſlow that, at noon on Wedneſday the 25th, we obſerved in lati- tude 17° 1', Morea bearing by compaſs from S. 24 W. to S. 8 W.; Otaheite from S. 1 1 E. to S. 41 E. and Titeroa from N. 85 E. to N. 45 E. about three or four miles diſtant. Some of the inhabitants viſited us from this iſland, and brought a few fowls, fiſh, and cocoa nuts to barter. The weather falling calm, and the ſhip drifting faſt in with the land, we were employed until ſun fet in towing her from it. At this time a light breeze ſpringing up from the ſouth the boats were taken on board, and all ſail made to the northward; 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 3.43 northward; but ſo tardily did we proceed that, on Friday the 27th, in the morning, Otaheite and Morea were ſtill in ſight aſtern. We continued moving at this gentle rate until Wedneſday the 1ſt of February, at which time we had reached only the latitude of 12°54', longitude 209° 58'. The wind had been variable, though chiefly from the eaſtern quarter, with tolerably fair weather. From this period our progreſs was ſomewhat ac- celerated. We were daily viſited by numerous birds, which inhabit the low half drowned iſlands of this ocean, varying in their kinds as well as numbers, until Wedneſday the 8th, when, in latitude 4° 36', and longitude 209° 15', they appeared to have intirely deſerted us. During this laſt week the weather had been clear, though very ſultry, with a moderate breeze between the E. N. E. and N. N. E. The dead reckoning had hitherto varied about half a degree only to the weſtward of the chronometer; but as we now advanced, we found a very ſtrong weſtwardly current, which affected us ſo much, that when we reached the equator, which was about noon on Sunday the 12th, our longitude by account was 210° 35', although by the chronometer we were then in 207° 38' only. This afternoon, Wedneſday the 15th, a few birds were again ſeen about the ſhip; the winds and weather continued nearly the ſame, attended with a heavy north- warlyd 346 A voyage of D1scovery [FEB. wardly ſwell, which continued to be very unplea- fant, and generally from the N. E. After croſ. fing the line, the current ſeemed to ſet to the north-weſtward, until in latitude 4° 5'4' north,” longitude by the chronometer 204° 4', by the dead reckoning, 200° 22', which proved, that ſince we had entered the northern hemiſphere, we had been ſet, in the courſe of three days, 81. to the weſtward, and 50 to the north. From this point the current ceaſed to ſet to the weſt- ward, but continued its northern direétion, in-, clining a little to the eaſt, at the rate of four to five leagues per day. Several birds, which had been our conſtant attendants fince the 12th, be- came very ſcarce after this evening. The trade wind between N. E. and E. N. E. blew a freſh gale. The weather in general was cloudy, with faualls, accompanied with a very heavy ſea from the eaſtward. The ſky, on the morning of Thurſday the 16th, being tolerably clear, I was enabled to ob- tain fix ſets of diſtances of a sº, the mean reſult of which gave the longitude 204° 5' 53", the chronometer ſhewed 204' 6' 15"; latitude 0° 14'. Very few birds were now to be ſeen; but in the morning one or two turtles were obſerved. The wind prevailing to the northward of N. E., ren- * The latitude is hereafter to be confidered as north lati- tude until it ſhall be otherways indicated. dered *. 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 347 dered our reaching the Sandwich iſlands, without being firſt led a conſiderable diſtance beyond them, a very doubtful circumſtance. This in- duced me to take advantage of the current, which ſtill continued to ſet to the northward; and by ſtanding to the eaſtward or northward as the wind veered, on Thurſday the 23d we reached the latitude of 12° 18', the longitude by the chronometer 203° 16', and by the dead reckon- ing 207°42' . The wind now blew a moderate breeze moſtly from the eaſtward; which per- mitted us to make a courſe a little to the eaſt- ward of north. * * * g On Sunday the 20th, the mean reſult of ſix ſets of diſtances & a # gave the longitude at noon 203°48', the chronometer 203°40' , by the dead reckoning 208° 23', the latitude 15° 25'. The wind, which was light, continued be- tween the eaſt and N. E. attended with a hol- low rolling ſwell from the N. W. On Wed- neſday the 20th, in latitude 17° 22', longitude 203° 30', after a few hours calm, towards ſun- ſet a breeze ſprang up from the N. W. We now ſtood to the N. N. E.; which courſe, by day-light on Thurſday the 1ſt of March, brought us in fight of Owhyhee, bearing by compaſs from north to N. by E. about twenty-four leagues $liſtant. The order for prohibiting general trade with the 3.48 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, the Indians was again read to the ſhip's com- pany. A particular attention to ſuch regulations with perſons circumſtanced as we we were, was not only of material importance, but was abſo- lutely indiſpenſable. As the day advanced, which was delightfully pleaſant, the wind gradually veered round to the north-eaſtward, which enabled us ſhortly after noon to ſteer for the ſouth point of Owhyhee, then bearing by compaſs N.-8 W. 14 leagues diſtant. Our latitude was now 18°9', longitude per dead reckoning 209° 33'; by the chrono- meter 204°19', which latter is to be received as the true longitude, notwithſtanding the diffe- rence of 5° 14; for ſo much had we been affected by weſtern or lee currents, in performing this very long and tedious paſſage. About midnight, we paſſed to the weſtward of the ſouth point of Owhyhee; and in the hope of procuring ſome proviſions and refreſhments, as we ſailed paſt the weſt coaſt of this iſland we kept cloſe in ſhore. In the morning of Friday the 2d, with a light breeze from the land, at the diſtance of about three miles, we ſtood along ſhore to the north- ward. Several canoes came off with a ſupply of pigs, and vegetables; amongſt the latter were forme very excellent water melons: the natives, however, demanded a very exorbitant return for theſe refreſhments, and ſeemed very indifferent * , , about º 1792.] ROUND THE WORL13. 34g about trading, or having any other communi- cation with us. At noon on Saturday the 3d, with very pleaſant weather and light breezes, generally from off the land, Karakakooa bore north about five miles diſtant; and we had now the ſatisfaction of finding our chronometer, al- lowing the Otaheitean rate, to agree within a few ſeconds of its longitude as ſettled by Captain Cook. The Portſmouth rate made it 1° 18' to the eaſtward. On board the Chatham, Mr. Arnold's chronometer erred 24 to the weſtward, according to its rate of going as ſettled at Ota- heite. The ſteep precipice which forms the north ſide of Karakakooa bay, renders it too remarkable to be eaſily miſtaken, eſpecially as the interior country riſes thence more abruptly than from the coaſt to the north or ſouth of the bay; which, although preſenting both wood-land and culti- vated country above the barren rocky ſhores where the habitations of the natives are chiefly ſituated, is, nevertheleſs, in a great degree deſti- tute of that diverſity of proſpect which might have been expected here, and which is alſo the general character of all this fide of the iſland. Several canoes having ſtood to ſea after us in the morning, we now brought to, for the purpoſe of trading with them; and were ſoon honored with a viſit from Tianna, the perſon mentioned Aſł 35O A voyage of Discovery [MARCH, in Mr. Meares's voyage. He was received in a manner agreeable to the diſtinguiſhed charaćter he had been repreſented to ſupport, and which, - from his grateful inquiries after his patron, he ap- peared to deſerve. This complimentary conver- ſation he ſeemed deſirous of ſpeedily putting an end to, being very anxious to acquaint us that, ſince his return from China, he had reſided on this iſland; where many ſevere conflicts had taken place; in which he had taken part with Tamaah- maah, againſt Teamawheere, who, it ſeemed, had, fince the death of Tereeoboo, ſhared the govern- ment with Tamaahmaah. In one of theſe bat- tles Tianna having ſhot Teama wheere, a complete vićtory was gained, and theſe two chiefs agreed to divide the iſland between them. Tamaahmaah becoming the ſovereign over the three northern, and Tauma of the three ſouthern diſtrićts. - Uunderſtanding that I purpoſed going directly to the Leeward iſlands, Tianna requeſted he might be permitted to accompany us; and, with his wives and retinue, to ſleep on board; with which requeſt I thought proper to comply. From the character given of this chief,” I was not a little ſurprized to find him totally ignorant of our language, and unable to pronounce a ſingle word articulately; but by our knowledge of his ſpeech we ſoon underſtood, that, ſince the pre- Meares's Voyage. * at ceding 1792.] ROUND THE WORP, ºyſ 351 ceding autumn, not any veſſel had arrived; that about that time three or four American brigs, and one, in which was Mr. Colnett, belonging to Macao, had viſited the iſlands; and, that it was not poſſible for any veſſels to touch at the other iſlands, without himſelf and the people of Owhy- hee being informed of their arrival. This intcl- ligence made me deſpair of meeting the ſtore- ſhip, and the hope which I had ſo long indulged, as a compenſation for the tardy progreſs which circumſtances had hitherto compelled us to makc, now ſeemed intirely to vaniſh. Tianna viewed every tranſačtion on board with attentive admiration, whilſt our numbers ſeemed to create in his mind a degree of ſurprize he was unable to ſubdue. In the courſe of the evening he held frequent converſations with Towereroo, and during the night he was ſeveral times on deck, endeavouring to aſcertain the number of men on duty in the different parts of the ſhip. The retinue of Tianna on this occaſion was to conſiſt of a conſiderable number; part were to attend him on board the Diſcovery, and the re- mainder was to proceed in the Chatham. His reſidence was a little to the north of Karakakooa; and as it was propoſed his ſuite ſhould be taken on board the next afternoon, we kept off that ſta- tion. A meſſenger, apparently of ſome confe- quence, was diſpatched to the ſhore with direc- tions 352 A voyage of Discovery [MARgh, tions for this purpoſe the preceding evening; in the forenoon of Sunday the 4th, however, ſeveral conſultations took place with thoſe about him, which finally ended in his declining to accom- pany us to Attowai. The converſation he had held with Towereroo had induced him to believe that the ſervices of this lad might be of great im- portance to him; and as he promiſed Towereroo a very handſome eſtabliſhment of houſe, land, and other advantages, I thought it adviſeable to fix him with Tianna for the preſent, that, on my return in the winter, I might be enabled to form ſome judgment of his treatment. Morotoi, the native iſland of Towereroo, was in a ſtate of great confuſion, in conſequence of its being the general rendezvous of Titeere and Taio, the ſovereigns of Woahoo and Attowai, who were then meditating a war againſt this iſland. This was an additional reaſon for conſenting to the arrangement. To- wereroo, though exceedingly anxious to accept Tianma’s offer, ſeemed to extertain great doubts as to the future ſafety of himſelf and his property; to the laſt moment he had his choice of remain- ing on board, or departing with Tianna; and, notwithſtanding he did not heſitate to prefer the latter, yet he earneſtly requeſted the few clothes he had left, and the articles I had given him, fince our leaving Otaheite, might be taken care of on board, until our return ; and he would - takc 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD, 3.53 take with him a very ſmall affortment of the dif- ferent articles of traffic only, to ſupply his preſent neceſſities. As Tianna had ſeveral goats, I did not preſent him with any of theſe animals, but made him very happy by giving him ſome vine and orange plants, ſome almonds, and an affortment of garden ſeeds, to all of which he promiſed the moſt particular care and attention. After re- ceiving ſome acceptable valuables in return for ten ſmall hogs, he took his leave of us with To- wereroo about five in the afternoon; and though he affected to be pretty well ſatisfied with his re- ception, and flattered with being ſaluted with four guns on his departure, yet it was very evident he was extremely diſappointed and chagrined in not having been able to procure any fire arms or ammunition; which were anxiouſly ſolicited, not only by himſelf but by all his countrymen, and by us as uniformly refuſed. To the care of Towcreroo I intruſted a letter, addreſſed to the officer commanding the veſſel charged with ſtores and proviſions for our ſervice, acquainting him with our departure from Owhy- hee, and of my intention to call at the Leeward iſlands to recruit our water, after which, we ſhould proceed immediately to the coaſt of Amc- rica: and I directed him to follow us thither without loſs of time, agreeably to the arrange- Vol. I Z II. CiltS 354 A voyAGE OF DIscovery [MARCH, ments I had previouſly made with the Secretary of State's office. As we ſtood along ſhore with a light breeze, we were in the evening greatly ſurprized on being hailed from a large canoe, which was meeting us, in broken Engliſh, demanding who we were, and to what country we belonged, and very ci- villy requeſting to be admitted on board. This being granted, the ſpeaker proved to be a young man named Tarehood, a native of Attowai, who had accompanied a Mr. John Ingram command- ing an American ſhip laden with furs, from North Weſt America, bound to Boſton in New Eng- land by the way of China. Tarehood had been with Mr. Ingram in North America about ſeven months, and had returned in a brig with him ſome months before. His preſent maſter, he informed me, was a chief named Kahowmotoo, of great importance, and nearly equal in conſequence with Tianna; and who like him had been very inſtrumental in gaining for Tamaahmaah the ſovereignty of the whole iſland. We were inſtantly made known to this chief, who preſented me with a letter written in Spaniſh, dated “Sloop Princeſs Royal, March 28, 1791,” (probably the ſame veſſel that was captured at Nootka) attended by an Engliſh tranſ- lation of the ſame date, and both ſigned “Ema- nuel Kimper;" recommending in the ſtrongeſt . . terſ)& 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 355 terms Tamaahmaah, Tianna, and this chief Ka- howmotoo, for their having, on all Ocaſions, ſhewn Mr. Kimper and his people every mark of friendly attention and hoſpitality. Kahowmotoo preſented me with three fine hogs, for which in return he received ample compenſation; but, like Tianna, was much mortified that it had not been made in arms or ammunition. He requeſted to ſleep on board, and that his canoe might be taken in tow, in both of which he was indulged. Much converſation took place in the evening. He con- firmed the account given by Tianna of the non- arrival of any veſſels for ſome months paſt, and the wars which had taken place; but it was ex- ceſſively difficult to reconcile the ſtory he told of Tianma, with that which Tianna had related of himſelf. Tianna's atchievements he readily ad- mitted, and candidly allowed him great merit for his military exploits; but denied his having equal power with Tamaahmaah; ſaying, there was but one aree de hot over all Owhyhee, and he was Ta- maahmaah; and that if Tianna was an aree de ſloi, ſo alſo muſt he be, and other chiefs of equal con- ſequence with Tianna and himſelf. This inſtance will ſerve to illuſtrate how very difficult it is, according to our comprehenſion of their language, to obtain matter of fact from theſe people; and that nothing ſhort of indefa- tigable labour can obtain the truth, and correct º Z 2 information, 356 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, information, from man in ſo early a ſtate of civi- lization. r The next morning we were abreaſt of the ſouth point of Toca-yah-ha bay, near which is Kahowmotoo's reſidence. It was a great pleaſure to obſerve the avidity with which all the chiefs who had viſited the ſhip ſought after the vege- table produćtions we had brought; which, if at- tended to, will in future add to their preſent abundant produćtion. Kahowmotoo was very anxious to obtain every acquiſition of this ſort, and was made very happy by receiving ſome fine orange plants, and a packet of different garden ſeeds; and likewiſe a goat and kid. With theſe valuables he appeared to be highly delighted, and promiſed to give them his greateſt care and at- tention. Tareehood, who preferred the name of Jack, had been with Mr. Ingram in the capacity of a ſervant; but was now promoted to the office of interpreter in the ſervice of this chief, which he by no means badly executed. Jack was extremely ſolicitous to remain on board, and to accompany us on our voyage. As he appeared to be a very ſhrewd active fellow, and there was a probabi- lity of his being made uſeful, I accepted of his ſervices on Monday the 5th, to which the chief conſented, though with a mixture of regret, and a friendly regard for Jack's future advantage and ſucceſs. 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 357 fucceſs. After being ſaluted with four guns, a compliment which Tianma had received, and taking a very affectionate leave of his interpreter, Kahowmotoo departed with the moſt friendly aſ- furance, that whenever we ſhould think proper to viſit his diſtrićt, we ſhould be abundantly ſup- plied with refreſhments. A light breeze, chiefly from the ſouth, advanc- ed us ſlowly towards the north point of Owhy- hee, until the trade wind at E. N. E. no longer intercepted by the high mountains which com- poſe the iſland, met us; when we directed our courſe towards Woahoo. Early in the morning of Tueſday the 6th, being well in with the iſland of Tahoorowa, the Chatham's ſignal was made to denote our ſituation in bearing up along the ſouth ſide of that iſland; but as neither this nor ſome previous ſignals had been acknowledged, I concluded the Chatham had remained becalmed under the high land of Owhyhee; whilſt we had benefited by a very fine gale, owing to our being a little further advanced ; and Woahoo being our next appointed rendezvous, a long ſeparation could not be apprehended. The trade wind blew ſtrong from the N. E. until we were under the lee of Ranai, when light and variable winds ſuc- ceeded. At noon Tahoorowa by compaſs bore S. 88 E.; the S. W. part of Mowee N. 79 E.; the eaſt part of Ranai N. 60 E.; ſouth point Z 3 N. 20 358 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, N. 20 E.; north weſt point N. 18 W.; and the weſtern part of Morotoi indiſtinétly ſeen, bore N. N. W. In this ſituation the latitude was ob- ſerved to be 20° 41', longitude by the chrono- nometer 203 2. The ſouth point of Ranai being the neareſt land, was about four miles diſ- tant, and was placed by our obſervations 1’ ſouth, and 5; to the weſt of the ſituation aſſigned to it by Captain King, In the afternoon ſome few of the natives viſited us from Ranai, merely, I be- lieve, to ſatisfy their curioſity, as they brought with them ſcarcely any thing for barter. Indeed, the dreary and deſolate appearance of their iſland, ſeemed a ſufficient apology for their coming empty handed. The apparent ſterility of the country, and a few ſcattered miſerable habita- tions which we were able with our glaſſes to diſ- cern, indicated the part of it now preſented to our view to be very thinly inhabited, and inca- pable of affording any of its produćtions to ſtran- gers. During the afternoon we proceeded to the north along the weſt ſide of Ranai; and, towards - ſun-ſet again met the trade wind, which about midnight brought us in ſight of Woahoo, bearing by compaſs weſt ſix or ſeven miles diſtant. We plied until day light of Wedneſday the 7th, when we directed our courſe along the ſouth ſide of that iſland, whoſe eaſtern ſhores bear a ſimilar deſolate appearance to thoſe of Ranai, and are principally \ 1792.] Round THE worLD. 359 principally compoſed of barren rocks and high precipices, which fall perpendicularly into the ſea. We did not paſs at a greater diſtance than a league, yet verdure or cultivation was not any where to be ſeen. From its eaſt point the north eaſt ſide of Woahoo takes a direction N. 35 W. off which are ſcattered ſome detached iſlets and rocks; the northernmoſt of theſe which we ſaw, is a low flat rock, lying from the eaſt point N. 22 W. three or four leagues diſtant; and near the fhore was a hill whoſe ſummit bears the appear- ance of a volcanic crater. The land to the north of the eaſt point ſeemed much indented, but whether capable of affording any ſhelter or not, we were too far off to diſcern. On the ſouth eaſt part of this iſland are two remarkable pro- montories, which lie from each other S. 81 W. and N. 81 E. about ſeven miles aſunder; the firſt or eaſternmoſt of theſe is formed of barren rocky cliffs, riſing ſo ſuddenly from the ſea, that to all appearance veſſels might bruſh their ſides in paſſ- ing them ; whence the land falls a little back, and forms a ſhallow bay in a northern direction, where the different colours in the water indicated a rocky bottom; on the beach the ſurf broke very violently, behind which a lagoon extended ſome diſtance to the northward. Should the bottom be found good, veſſels might ride in this bay to- łerably well protećted againſt the general trade Z 4 wind; 360 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, wind; but as our place of rendezvous was round the ſecond promontory, we did not examine it in a more particular manner. Continuing our courſe about nine we hauled round the reef which lies about a quarter of a mile from that point, and had ſoundings from 22 to 10 fathoms; in which latter depth of water we anchored about ten o'clock, the bottom ſand and pieces of ſmall coral. This promontory, which is the ſouth point of the iſland, has alſo on its top the appear- ance of a crater, formed by volcanic eruptions; this bore by compaſs N. 82 E.; the outward part of the reef S. 81 E.; the weſternmoſt part of the land in ſight N. 82 W. a break in the reef, which extends at irregular diſtances along the ſhore, N. 20 W.; a low ſandy point, near the weſt end of a large Indian village N. 7 W.; and the middle of the village (where, the natives informed us, we might land in perfect ſafety with our boats) N. N. E. about two miles diſtant. We examined a confiderable ſpace around the ſhip, and found in ſhore the ſame deſcription of bottom, though the coral which principally compoſed it was of ſo ſoft a nature, as to cauſe little apprehenſion for the ſafety of our cables. The depth of water within us gradually decreaſed to ſix fathoms, and without, to the diſtance of nearly a mile, as gra- dually increaſed to 25 and 30 fathoms, where the bottom was found to be a fine grey ſand. As 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 36; As our quarter deck required caulking, the carpenters were immediately employed on this buſineſs. Some few of the natives viſited us from the ſhore, who brought in their canoes a very ſparing ſupply of refreſhments, amongſt which, the muſk and water melons made no in- conſiderable part, and were very excellent of their kinds. The ſituation occupied by us in this bay, which the natives call Whyteete, ſeemed nearly as eligible as moſt of the anchoring places theſe iſlands are generally found to afford. The inha- bitants were exceſſively orderly and docile, al- though there was not a chief or any perſon of diſtinétion amongſt them to enforce their good behaviour; neither man nor woman attempted to come on board, without firſt obtaining per- miſſion ; and when this was refuſed, they re- mained perfeótly quiet in their canoes alongſide. The information obtained at Owhyhee, that Titeere and Taio, with moſt of the principal chiefs and warriors of this iſland, and thoſe to lee- ward, were on a hoſtile expedition at Morotoi and Mowee, was here confirmed; but differed as to the immediate cauſe of their abſence, which was now repreſented to be for the purpoſe of re- pelling an invaſion likely to take place from Owhyhee, by Tamaahmaah, Kohowmotoo, and Tianna. This, in a great meaſure, ſeemed to account for the ſmall number of inhabitants who viſited 362 A vox AGE of discovery [MAR cu, wiſited us, the wretchcd condition of their ca- moes, and the ſcanty ſupply of their country's produce which they brought to market. On the #hores, the villages appeared numerous, large, and in good repair; and the furrounding country pleaſingly interſperſed with deep, though not ex- tenſive valleys; which, with the plains near the ſea-ſide, preſented a high degree of cultivation and fertility. The apparent docility of theſe people, who have been repreſented by former vi- ſitors as the moſt daring and unmanageable of any who belong to the Sandwich iſlands, might probably, be attributed in a great meaſure to the abſence of their fighting men, and to our mani- feſt ſuperiority in numbers, regularity in point of order, and military government; which ſeemed to make a wonderful impreſſion on all who were permitted to come on board, and who, to a man, appeared very much afraid of fire-arms. This was cvinced, on our mounting guard to poſt the centinels round the ſhip. On this occaſion they all haſtily paddled towards the ſhore, and it was not without much perſuaſion that they were in- duced to return. \ It appeared very ſingular, that the war of which we had heard ſo much, was not yet begun; and Kahowmotoo, who had frequently mentioned the ſubjećt, ſaid they were not to begin the combat until after the expiration of fifteen months. If this 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 363 this information be correót, deſigns ſo long pre- meditated, or preparations delayed ſo long from being carried into execution, were hard to ac- count for. Taio and Titeere had now been ſe- veral months from their reſpective governments. Our new ſhip-mate Jack became very uſeful; he took upon him to repreſent us in the moſt formidable point of view to all his countrymen; magnifying our powers, and augmenting our numbers, and proclaiming that we were not tra- ders, ſuch as they had been accuſtomed to ſee; but that we were belonging to King George, and were all mighty warriors. This being his conſtant diſcourſe, it is not to be wondered that his coun- trymen became much intimidatcd; and as this could be produćtive of no ill conſequences, we permitted Jack to proceed in his encomiums, and unanimouſly agreed it would not be his fault if we were not in high repute amongſt the iſlan- €1’S. After caulking the decks I purpoſed to execute ſuch trivial repairs, at this place, as might be found neceſſary to the rigging, &c. &c. provided that watcr, for which I was alone ſolicitous, could be procured ; as the abundant and excel- lent refreſhments we had obtained at Otaheite, and the high ſtate of health which we had en- joyed ſince our leaving Duſky bay, rendered ſup- plics 36.4 A voy AGE OF Discovery [MARCH, , plies of any other nature a ſecondary conſidera- tion. For this purpoſe, attended by two armed boats, and a guard of ſeven marines, I landed, accom- panied by Mr. Mudge, Mr. Whidbey, and Mr. Menzies. Our boats remained perfectly quiet on the beach, having paſſed to the ſhore between ſome rocks, which completely protećted it from the ſurf. The natives, who were preſent, received us in a very orderly manner. Two buſtling men with large ſticks, kept the few ſpectators at a re- fpcétful diſtance: to theſe I made ſome preſents; and, on inquiring for water, they directed us to forme ſtagnant brackiſh ponds near the beach. This being rejećted, we were given to underſtand that good water was to be had in abundance at ſome diſtance, to which they readily undertook to condućt us : and as they all appeared friendly and pacific, the boats were left in charge of Mr. Swaine and Mr. Manby; and we proceeded, with. our guard, in ſearch of the promiſed ſupply. Our guides led us tº the northward through the vil- lage, to an exceedingly well-made cauſeway, about twelve feet broad, with a ditch on cach fide. - This opened to our view a ſpacious plain, which, in the immediate vicinity of the village, had the appearance of the open common fields in England; 1792.] £ou ND THE WORLD. 363 England; but, on advancing, the major part ap- peared divided into fields of irregular ſhape and figure, which were ſeparated from each other by low ſtone walls, and were in a very high ſtate of cultivation. Theſe ſeveral portions of land were planted with the eddo or taro root, in different ftages of inundation ; none being perfectly dry, and ſome from three to ſix or ſeven inches under water. The cauſeway led us near a mile from the beach, at the end of which was the water we were in queſt of. It was a rivulct five or ſix feet wide, and about two or three feet deep, well banked up, and nearly motionleſs; ſome ſmall rills only, finding a paſtage through the dams that checked the ſluggiſh ſtream, by which a conſtant ſupply was afforded to the faro planta- tions. The water was excellent, but the road was too rough and hard for rolling our caſks ſuch a diſtance, without cºpoſing them to great damage. This induced me to make our guides underſtand, that, if the inhabitants would coi- lect, and carry this water on board in gourds, they ſhould be well rewarded for their trouble. The offer was inſtantly communicated to their neighbours about us, who immediately replied, we ſhould have an ample ſupply the next day. At the termination of the cauſeway, the paths of communication with the different fields or plan- tations were on theſe narrow ſtone walls; very rugged, 366 A voy Age of Discovery [MARCH, rugged, and where one perſon only could paſs at a time. The gentleneſs and civility of the na- tives tempted us to extend our walk through the plantations, which we found very pleaſant. A fine refreſhing brecze prevailed, and the Indians kept at a ſufficient diſtance to prevent their company being incommodious. In this excur- ſion we found the land in a high ſtate of culti- vation, moſtly under immediate crops of taro; and abounding with a variety of wildfowl, chiefly of the duck kind, ſome of which our ſportſmen ſhot, and they were very fine eating. The ſides of the hills, which were at ſome diſtance, ſeemed rocky and barren; the intermediate vallies, which were all inhabited, produced ſome large trees, and made a pleaſing appearance. The plains, however, if we may judge from the labour be- ſtowed on their cultivation, ſeem to afford the principal proportion of the different vegetable produćtions on which the inhabitants depend for their ſubſiſtence. The ſoil, though tolerably rich, and producing rather a luxuriant abundance, dif- fers very materially from that of Matavai, or the other parts of Otaheite. At Woahoo, Nature ſeems only to have ačted a common part in her diſpenſations of vegetable food for the ſervice of man; and to have almoſt confined them to the taro plant, the raiſing of which is attended with much care, ingenuity, and manual labour. In the | 1792.] f{Q}{JX D THE WORLD . 367 f the ſeveral parts of its culture, the inhabitants, whether planting, weeding, or gathering, muſt, during the whole of theſe operations, be up to their middle in mud, and expoſed to the rays of a vertical ſun : whereas, on the plains of Otaheite, the ſurface teems, as it were, ſpontaneouſly with the moſt abundant produce of cſculent vegeta- bles, without the help of induſtry to ſow, plant, or rear them, or the aſſiſtance of the aquedućts which theſe people conſtrućt with great labour and ingenuity to inſure them a crop. There, the continued groves of the lofty and umbrageous bread fruit, apple, palm, and other trees, afford a delightful cool retreat to thoſe favored iſlanders; here the inhabitants know not the luxury of ſuch retirement. Nor did it appear in the vegetable kingdom alone that Nature here had been leſs favorable; the human ſpecies, though without doubt originally of the ſame nation, differ exceſ- fively; and it would ſeem that the Comparative benevolence of the Otaheiteans and theſe peoplc was about equal to the natural fertility of the ſoil on which they reſpectively lived. It may how- ever appear rather uncharitable to form any de- cided opinion on ſo ſhort an acquaintance; yet firſt impreſſions will ever have their influence on viſiting different countries under circumſtances fimilar, or nearly ſo. On ſuch occaſions it is ſcarcely poſſible to avoid compariſons, in which {)I,8. 368 A voy AGE OF DIscovery [MARch; one muſt neceſſarily ſuffer. On our landing at Otaheite, the effuſions of friendſhip and hoſpita- tality were evident in the countenances of every one we met. Each endeavoured to anticipate our wants or our wiſhes by the moſt faſcinating attention, and by ſedulouſly ſtriving to be firſt in performing any little ſervice we required; invit- ing us to take refreſhments at every houſe we ap- proached, and manifeſting a degree of kindneſs that would juſtly be extolled amongſt the moſt poliſhed nations. At Woahoo we were regarded with an unwelcome auſterity, and our wants treated by the generality with a negligent indif- ference. In the courſe of our walk they exhi- bited no aſſiduity to pleaſe, nor did they appear apprehenſive left offence ſhould be given; no re- freſhments were offered, nor had we invitation' to any of their houſes. Their general behaviour was diſtantly civil, apparently direéted by a deſire to eſtabliſh a peaceable intercourſe with ſtran- gers, from whom there was a proſpect of deriving many valuable acquiſitions, which would be un- attainable by any other mode of conduct; as they muſt have been convinced immediately on our landing, that we were too powerful to be con- quered, and too much upon our guard to ſuffer the leaſt indignity by ſurprize. I muſt, however, do juſtice to the hoſpitality of our two guides, who on our reaching the ſhore took upon them 3 the 1792.] ROUNID THE WORLD. 369 the office of conſtables; and who had alſo each cauſed a hog and a quantity of vegetables to be prepared for our entertainment. On our return this repaſt was ready, and we were much intreat- ed by them to partake of it; but as it was now paſt ſun ſet, we were under the neceſſity of de- clining their civility; on which they very oblig- ingly put our intended ſupper into the boats. I preſented each of our guides with an acceptable acknowledgment, and earneſtly renewing my requeſt of a ſupply from the brook, which they promiſed ſhould be complied with the next day, we returned on board. Towards midnight the Chatham arrived, and anchored a little to the weſtward of the Diſco- very. I ſoon learned from Mr. Broughton that as I had ſuſpected, his veſſel had been becalmed the evening we parted until near one the next morning, when they ſtood towards Mowee ; but on his not being able to ſee the Diſcovery at day light, he ſteered to the north-weſt along the fouthern ſide of that iſland, and found an eligible anchoring place off its weſtern part, with ſound- ings regular and good; and as the natives brought off a conſiderable quantity of water, he had great reaſon to believe that article could there be rea- dily procured. * - - The few natives in our immediate neighbour- hood, though they conducted themſelves in a Vol, I. A a very 370 A voyage of Discovery [MArch, very civil and ſubmiſfive manner, yet brought us ſo little water in the courſe of the next day, . Tueſday the 8th, that I was induced to give up the idea of obtaining a ſupply by their means, and to proceed immediately to Attowai; where I was aſſured we ſhould have that neceſſary article completely within our own reach and power. After employing the forenoon in ſetting up our rigging, and in other uſeful occupations, we weighed anchor, and ſteered to the weſtward. Anxious to communicate the intelligence of our progreſs to the officer commanding the ſtore- ſhip, (this being one of the appointed rendezvous) I entruſted a hetter to one of the natives, a very aćtive ſenſible fellow, who promiſed to take great care of it, and to deliver it on the veſſel's arrival in this bay; and for the faithful diſcharge of this truſt, he was aſſured of receiving a very hand- ſome preſent, to which I promiſed him an addi- tion on my return. Whyteete bay is formed, by the land falling a little back round the ſouth point of Woahoo; and although open above half the compaſs in the ſouthern quarters, it is unqueſtionably the moſt eligible anchoring place in the iſland. We found the latitude of the ſhip's ſtation by four good meridional altitudes to be 21° 16', 47"; its longi- tude by the chronometer 202° 0' 37"; and the tariation of the compaſs to be 7° 59' eaſtwardly. *. - t Mr. 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD, 371 Mr. Arnold's chronometer on board the Chatham gave the longitude 201° 45' 30", allowing the rate as ſettled at Otaheite; our chronometer by the Portſmouth rate, ſhewed the longitude to be 203° 20' 50"; but 202° 9' 37" is to be received as its true longitude. A fine breeze between five and ſix brought us round the ſouth-weſt part of Woahoo, which lics from the ſouth point N. 82 W. five leagues diſtant. This point is low flat land, with a reef round it, extending about a quarter of a mile from the ſhore. The reef and low land continue £ome diſtance to the eaſtward towards Whyteete bay, and form, between the ſouth and ſouth-weſt points, a large open ſhallow bay, with high land riſing very irregularly at ſome diſtance from the beach; which, towards the ſouth-weſt point, appeared to be broken in two places, and to form lagoons that ſeemed capable of receiving boats and ſmall craft. One of the natives, who was accompanying us to Attowai, informed me, that all along the ſhore off theſe openings the bottom was rocky, and would cut our cables. This, with ſome other circumſtances, induced me to believe, that there was not any where in this ſpacious bay ſuch good anchorage as at our laſt ſtation. At eight in the evening, the weſt point of Woahoo bore N. ; E. three leagues diſtant. The Chatham being under the land becalmed, we - A a 2 ſoon 372 A voy AGE or Discovery [MARCH, ſoon loſt ſight of her. We continued our courſe under all ſail, and to our great ſurprize came within fight of Attowai, by half paſt four the next morning, Friday the 9th. The eaſt end, by compaſs, bore N. by W. at a trifling diſtance, having gained almoſt ſix leagues in the night's run from land to land, more than the log aſcer- tained; which I concluded muſt have been ef- fečted by a very ſtrong north-weſt current. At day-break, we bore away along the ſouth ſide of Attowai for Whymea bay, where about nine o'clock we anchored, and moored a cable each way; the depth of water was 24 fathoms, with a bottom of dark grey ſand and mud. The eaſt point of the bay bearing, by compaſs, S.67E. the weſt point N. 70 W.; and the river N. 31 E. about two miles diſtant. CHAP. 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 373 CHAPTER II: Tranſactions at Attowai–The Prince and Regent viſit the Ships—Fidelity of the Natives—Obſer- vations on the Change in the ſeveral Governments of the Sandwich Iſlands—Commercial Purſuits of the Americans. DY the time we had anchored, ſeveral of the natives viſited usin the ſame ſubmiſfive and orderly manner as at Woahoo, and appeared bet- ter provided. Towards noon of Friday the 9th, the Chatham arrived; but the wind ſhifting about prevented her coming to anchor until ſun- ſet, when ſhe moored a little to the weſtward of the ſtation we had taken. * - - Our boats, guard, &c. being in readineſs, about one o'clock we proceeded to the ſhore. Mr. Menzies accompanied me in the yawl, and Mr. Puget followed with the cutter and launch. The ſurf was not ſo high as to prevent our landing with eaſe and ſafety; and we were received by the few natives preſent, with nearly the ſame ſort of diſtant civility which we experienced at Woahoo. - A man, named Rehood, immediately under- A a 3 took 374 A vox AGE of Discovery [MARCH, took to preſerve good order, and underſtanding we purpoſed to remain ſome days, cauſed two excellent houſes to be tabooed for our ſervice; one for the officers, the other for the working people, and for the guard, conſiſting of a ſerjeant and ſix marines. Stakes were driven into the ground from the river to the houſes, and thence acroſs the beach, giving us an allotment of as much ſpace as we could poſſibly have occaſion for; within which few encroachments were attempt- ed. This buſineſs was executed by two men, whoſe authority the people preſent ſeemed to acknowledge and reſpect, although they did not appear to us to be chiefs of any particular conſe- quence. I made them ſome very acceptable pre- fents; and a trade for proviſions and fuel was ſoon eſtabliſhed. Certain of the natives, who had permiſſion to come within our lines, were em- ployed in filling and rolling our water-caſks to and from the boats; for which ſervice they ſeemed highly gratified by the reward of a few beads or ſmall nails. t - Having no reaſon to be apprehenſive of any interruption to the harmony and good under- ſtanding that ſeemed to exiſt, and the afternoon being invitingly pleaſant, with Mr. Menzies, our new ſhip-mate Jack, and Rehood, I proceeded along the river-ſide and found the low country which ſtretches from the foot of the mountains • . towards 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 375 towards the ſea, occupied principally with the taro plant, cultivated much in the ſame manner as at Woahoo ; interſperſed with a few ſugar canes of luxuriant growth, and ſome ſweet pota- toes. The latter are planted on dry ground, the former on the borders and partitions of the taro grounds, which here, as well as at Woahoo, would be infinitely more commodious were they a little broader, being at preſent ſcarcely of ſuffi- cient width to walk upon. This inconvenience may poſſibly ariſe from a principle of oeconomy, and the ſcarcity of naturally good land. The ſides of the hills extending from theſe plantations to the commencement of the foreſt, a ſpace com- prehending at leaſt one half of the iſland, appear- ed to produce nothing but a coarſe ſpiry graſs from an argillaceous ſoil, which had the appear- ance of having undergone the aëtion of fire, and much reſembled that called the red dirt in Ja- maica, and there conſidered little better than a caput mortuum. Moſt of the cultivated lands being conſiderably above the level of the river, made it very difficult to account for their being ſo uniformly well watered. The ſides of the hills afforded no running ſtreams; and admitting there had been a colle&tion of water on their tops, they were all ſo extremely perforated, that there was little chance of water finding any A a 4 paſſage 376 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, paſſage to the taro plantations. Theſe perfora- tions, which were numerous, were viſible at the termination of the mountains, in perpendicular cliffs abruptly deſcending to the cultivated land; and had the appearance of being the effect of volcanic eruptions, though I ſhould ſuppoſe of very ancient date. As we proceeded, our atten- tion was arreſted by an objećt that greatly excited our admiration, and at once put an end to all conjećture on the means to which the natives reſorted for the watering of their plantations. A. lofty perpendicular cliff now preſented itſelf, which, by riſing immediately from the river, would effectually have ſtopped our further pro- greſs into the country, had it not been for an ex- ceedingly well conſtructed wall of ſtones and clay about twenty-four feet high, raiſed from the bot- tom by the ſide of the cliff, which not only ſerved as a paſs into the country, but alſo as an aquedućt, to convey the water brought thither by great labour from a conſiderable diſtance; the place where the river deſcends from the moun- tains affording the planters an abundant ſtream, for the purpoſe to which it is ſo advantageouſly applied. This wall, which did no leſs credit to the mind of the projećtor than to the ſkill of the builder, terminated the extent of our walk; from whence we returned through the plantations, -- whoſe 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 377 whoſe highly improved ſtate impreſſed us with a very favorable opinion of the induſtry and in- genuity of the inhabitants. On our arival at the beach, I had the comfort of finding all things in perfectly good order. As the trading and working party were extremely well lodged, it was reaſonable to believe that our buſineſs would not only be much facilitated, but that a more plentiful ſupply of refreſhments would, probably, be procured, by allowing them to remain on ſhore. This induced me to leave Mr. Puget in charge of the party, and I returned on board perfectly ſatisfied with the ſafety of their ſituation. Like our treatment at Woahoo, our reception here was not of that hearty, friendly nature, I had been accuſtomed to experience from our ſouthern friends. The eagerneſs, nay even avi- dity, with which the men here aſſiſted in the proſtitution of the women; and the readineſs of the whole ſex, without any exception, to ſurren- der their perſons without the leaſt importunity, could not fail, at the moment, to incur our cen- ſure and diſlike; and, on reflection, our diſguſt and averſion. I have read much, and ſeen ſome- thing in my ſeveral viſits to this ocean, of the obſcenity attributed to the inhabitants of Ota- heite and the Society iſlands; but no indecency that ever came under my obſervation, could be compared 37s A voyage of Discovery [MARch, compared with the exceſſive wantonneſs preſent- cd in this excurſion. Had this levity, now ſo offenſively conſpicuous, been exhibited in my former viſits to theſe iſlands, its impreſſions could not have been effaced, and it muſt have been re- colle&ted at this time with all the abhorrence which it would at firſt have naturally created; but as no remembrance of ſuch behaviour oc- curred, I was induced to conſider this licentiouſ- meſs as a perfeótly new acquirement, taught, per- haps, by the different civilized voluptuaries, who, for ſome years paſt, have been their conſtant wi- ſitors. - At Woahoo, and alſo on our arrival here, we were given to underſtand that there were Eng- liſhmen reſident on this iſland. One of them, a young man about ſeventeen years of age, whoſe name was Rowbottom, on Saturday the 10th came on board in a large double canoe, who ſaid he was of Derbyſhire, that he had ſailed from England about five years fince in an Indiaman to China, which ſhip he had quitted in order to engage with ſome of the veſſels in the fur trade between North-Weft America and China; and that he had ever fince been thus employed in the American ſervice. He informed me, that himſelf, John Williams a Welchman, and James Coleman an Iriſhman, had been left at Onehow, in order that they might return 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 379 return to this iſland for the purpoſe of colle&ting ſandal-wood, and pearls, for their maſter John Kendrick, an American, commanding the brig Lady Waſhington, in whoſe ſervice they ſtill re- mained at the wages of eight dollars per month. The Lady Waſhington had quitted theſe iſland the preceding Oétober, bound to New England, with a cargo of furs to diſpoſe of in her way thi- ther at China; ſhe was immediately to return from Boſton, and having ſpent the next winter in North-Weſt America, was, in the autumn of the enſuing year, to call for theſe men at Attowai, and take in a cargo of ſandal-wood for the Indian market, with ſuch pearls as they might have col- leded. With Rowbottom came two chiefs, the one named No-ma-tee-he-tee, the other Too; both of whom he ſaid would be uſeful at Attowai and Onehow. On making theſe chiefs each a preſent, with which they were greatly pleaſed, they ſaid they were directed by the king, or rather the prince Ta-moo-eree, (who is a boy, and the eldeſt ſon of Taio the ſovereign of this and the neigh- bouring iſlands) to ſay, that Enemoh, the regent in Taio's abſence, and Tamooeree, would be with ~gis in a day or two; giving me to underſtand that Enemoh was the principal acting officer. A meſ- ſenger was immediately diſpatched to requeſt of his highneſs, that, as my ſtay would be very ſhort, he 38o A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARch, he would do me the favor to loſe no time in giving us the honor of his company; and, as a pledge of our friendly diſpoſition, I ſent him a largc axe as a preſent. 1 * , Our young countryman ſaid it was highly im- portant to have the ſtrióteſt watch over the be- haviour of theſe people; for although he con- ceived our force was too great for them to at- tempt any thing hoſtile with the leaſt proſpect of ſucceſs, yet he could not determine how far their ambitious views might lead them, as, ſince their ſucceſs in taking a ſchooner at Owhyhee, they had become ſo elated, that they had at- tempted to take a brig at Mowee. . The ſchooner belonged to a Mr. Metcalf, an American trader, who having been ſucceſsful in the fur trade, equipped and entruſted her to the command of his ſon, who ſailed with eight men from Macao, in order to proſecute that braneh of commerce. This veſſel was captured at Owhy- hee; but as Rowbottom's narrative of the facts' was afterwards found erroneous, the particulars of the enterprize, from better authority, will be given in a future chapter. •3 Nomatºehetee and Too, with other natives pre- ſent, confirmed the intelligence of this atrocious- aćt, and, at the ſame time, highly reprobated the inhuman murder of the crew, who were all put to death excepting one man. Thamma was ac- cuſed 1792.] Round THE WORLD. 38 i cuſed by them of having projećted this wicked ſcheme, and of having perpetrated the horrible maſſacre; but they poſitively denied that Taio, who had been ſuſpe&ted of meditating the cap- ture of the brig at Mowee, had any knowledge of that buſineſs; ſaying, that it was intirely the aćt of the people of Mowce. On becoming ac- quainted with theſe daring and ambitious deſigns, I inquired what reception Tianna would have ex- perienced had he accompanied us from Owhy- hee Every one preſent ſeemed to be aſtoniſhed at his entertaining ſuch an idea, and agreed that he would have been put to death the inſtant he had landed, as they all conſidered him as their moſt inveterate enemy. Theſe reports, and the obſervations that were made by the natives in Conſequence of their being related to me, gave me great reaſon to apprehend that Tianna's inten- tions of accompanying us hither, which on re- fle&tion he had thought proper to decline, were not dićtated by motives of the moſt friendly and diſintereſted nature. Theſe unwelcome tidings being concluded, Mr. Broughton attended me on ſhore with the two chiefs and the young Engliſhman, who was extremely ſerviceable to us as an interpreter; and pointed out to the natives our friendly intentions towards them, and the manner in which they ſhould condućt themſelves, not only to inſure our good 382, A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, good opinion, but to obtain the advantages that would eventually reſult to themſelves from our viſit. On landing, I underſtood from Mr. Puget- that every thing was, and had been, conducted with the greateſt propriety and good order by all parties. Trade for proviſions, wood, &c. was going on very briſkly, and our ſupply of water was equal to our wiſhes. Matters thus pleaſantly circumſtanced, we embarked with Mr. Menzies and Mr. Whidbey, who had accompanied us on ſhore in a double canoe to examine the river, which, at the diſtance of about half a league from the entrance, divides into two branches, one ſtretching towards the E. N. E.; the other, ſeemingly the furtheſt navi- gable, took a northerly direction, in which how- ever we were not able to advance more than five hundred yards beyond the wall we had viſited the preceding evening. Here we landed, and conſidered ourſelves about three miles from the fea-ſide, to which we now returned by a path formewhat nearer the foot of the mountains than before, through a ſimilar country; and were on this occaſion, more peſtered and diſguſted, if poſſible, with the obſcene importunities of the women, than on our former excurſion. Nomateehetee returned with us to dinner; Too remained with Rehood to aſſiſt our party on ſhore. The next morning, Sunday the 11th, Noma- - teehétee *792.1 Round TH}. WORLD. 383 teehetee produced a liſt of certificates from four different commanders of trading veſſels who had lately viſited theſe iſlands. The firſt, dated in April 1791, ſigned by J. Colnett of the Argo- naut, recommended this chief to the notice of future viſitors; but the others ſigned by J. In- gram of the Hope, Thomas Barnet of the Guſ- tavus, and John Kendrick of the Lady Waſhing- ton, the two former without dates, the latter dated 27th of Oétober, 1791, all direct that the greateſt circumſpection ſhould be obſerved in the inter- courſe of ſtrangers with theſe iſlanders, notwith- ſtanding the good opinion entertained of their fidelity, or the recommendation given, by Mr. Colnett. I told Nomateehetee the paper ſpoke much in his praiſe and favor, and deſired that he would not omit ſhewing it to the commander of the next and every other veſſel that might arrive at Attowai, which he promiſed to do, and re- queſted it might remain on board until our de- parture. The caulkers having finiſhed the quarter deck of the Diſcovery, they were ſent on board the Chatham to execute a ſimilar ſervice. Another of the party left by the Lady Waſh- ington now made his appearance, which did not ſpeak much in his favor. This man's name was Coleman, and Rowbottom had ſaid he was of Ireland, which the man himſelf poſitively denied, 8 and 38.4 A VOYA C E OF DISCOVERY |MARCH, and dcclared he was an American, born at New York. He had in moſt reſpects adopted the cuſ. toms of the natives, particularly in dreſs, or rather in nakedneſs; for, excepting the maro, which he wore with much leſs decency than the generality of the inhabitants, he was perfectly naked, and the colour of his ſkin was little whiter than the faireſt of theſe people. I aſked him what he had done with his former clothes; to which he an- fwered with a ſneer, that “they were hanging up in a houſe for the admiration of the natives;” and ſeemed greatly to exult in having degenerated into a ſavage way of life. He acquainted me, that he was charged with a meſſage from the prince, to aſk what ſtay I intended to make, and to inquire if we were friendly and peaceably diſ- poſed. . I deſired he would inform the prince, that we ſhould depart the inſtant a ſupply of water was obtained; that I was very deſirous of having an interview both with him and Enemoh, but that I could not be detained for this purpoſe; and that, as a further pledge of the favorable diſ- poſition we bore towards him and his people, I deſired he would preſent to the prince a piece of fearlet cloth in my name. With this embaſſy he immediately ſet off, after aſſuring me that the prince and regent, with many other chiefs, would pay us their reſpects by noon the next day. The afternoon being delightfully pleaſant, I made ſ 1792.] Round THE world. 385 made a ſmall excurſion to the weſtward along the beach; and on returning, obſerved the hills to the eaſtward of the river to be on fire from a conſiderable height, in particular directions, down towards the water's edge. I was by no means pleaſed with this appearance, well knowing that fires are generally reſorted to by theſe and other rude nations as the ſignal for collecting the diſ- tant inhabitants, when an enterprize or ſcheme is meditated to be carried into effect. I deſircd Rowbottom to attend to the conver- ſation of the Indians who were near ; but he col- lećted nothing from them in our walk that could give riſe to ſuſpicion. On joining the ſhore party, I aſked Nomateehetee and ſome other chiefs, what was the cauſe of this extenſive conflagration. Some replica, it was to announce the arrival of the prince, the regent, and other great chiefs in this neighbourhood on the morrow; whilſt others contended it was for no other purpoſe than that of burning the weeds. This diſagreement in opinion concerning the cauſe of ſo unuſual an appearance, was far from being ſatisfactory. The furf ran very high, and other circumſtances con- curred to render the embarkation of our working party very inconvenient; in addition to which, I did not think it prudent to manifeſt our appre- henſions by a ſudden and haſty retreat. The party on ſhore amounting to twenty armed per- Vol. I. B. b ſons 386 A voy AGE OF DIscovERY [MARCH, ſons was tolerably ſtrong. Mr. Puget had di- rections to be vigilantly on his guard; and he was informed that the two launches, armed and provided with falſe fires to make ſignals in caſe of alarm, would be ſtationed as cloſe to the beach as the ſurf would permit during the night, in caſe he ſhould need further aſſiſtance. Having taken theſe precautions I returned on board, with the hope, that in the event of any tumult little danger was to be apprehended. During the night, the chiefs who had taken up their lodg- ings near our party, frequently viſited the beach near where our boats rode, and ſecmed inquiſi- tive as to the cauſe of the precautions which they beheld. The night however paſſed without the leaſt interruption; and in the morning the na- tives were again trading in their uſually civil and friendly manner. Our ſupply of water was completed on Mon- day the 12th; and the few hogs and vegetables we were able to purchaſe were received from the ſhore. As the market no longer afforded provi- ſions, and as our buſineſs was now finiſhed, di- rections were given for the embarkation of the party in the afternoon, it being my intention the next day to ſail for Onehow. The ſurf having prodigiouſly increaſed, Mr. Puget, on theſe orders being delivered to him, repreſented to me, that he was fearful our people would not be able to reach 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 387 reach the boats with their arms without expoſ- ing themſelves to ſome danger. Conceiving that with the aſſiſtance of a canoe, which hitherto had been the general mode of conveyance be- tween our boats and the ſhore, there would be 'little hazard, I deſired he would uſe his utmoſt endeavours to get off; as the re-appearance of the fires on the hills, and the non-appearance of either prince or regent, indicatcd a poſſibility that the natives might have thought proper to diſcon- tinue their former ſervices and good behaviour. In the evening our boats returned ; they had been ſome time detained by the abſence of a man belonging to the Chatham, who had ſtrayed from the party, and whom at length they had been obliged to leave behind. To effect the embark- ation, Mr. Puget had procured a large double ca- noe, which unfortunately was ſtove and ſwamped the firſt trip; but by the exertions of thoſe in the boats every perſon had happily been ſaved, though amongſt them were ſome who could not ſwim. By this accident two muſkets, three axes, a croſs cut ſaw, and a ſet of accoutrements went to the bottom, but they had recovered one of the muſ- kets. Sevcral articles belonging to the officers who had been on ſhore on duty could not be taken without imminent danger of being loſt, as thoſe on ſhore after the loſs of the canoe had to ſwim to the boats through the ſurf. Amongſt B b 2 - theſe 388 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, theſe were ſome arms, and a valuable double bar- relled fowling-piece, which were left in the charge of Nomatechetee, who tabooed them; and, with John Williams, (the Welchman left by the lady Waſh- ington) gave every aſſurance of their ſecurity; to inſure which, they both propoſed to ſleep in the houſe where the valuables were depoſited. Mr. Puget ſeemed to entertain great confidence of the ſafety of the articles and of their being all forth- coming; but I muſt own, I expected that this confidence would put their fidelity ſeverely to the teſt, and might eventually be the means of preventing our interview with the prince and re- gent; eſpecially as Williams had returned with an apology for their having broken their engage- ment, which he ſaid had been occaſioned by ex- ceffive fatigue; but that we might rely on ſeeing them the next morning. This unpleaſant ſtate of ſuſpenſe occaſioned me ſome anxiety; but at day-break I was agreeably relieved by receiving a meſſage that the prince and regent were arrived at Whymea. On Tueſday the 13th Mr. Puget was diſ- patched to the ſhore for the purpoſe of obtaining the things which had been left behind, and with direétions to uſe every poſſible means to impreſs the prince and regent with our friendly diſpoſi- tion, and to prevail on them to viſit the ſhips. In theſe reſpects he had the good fortune to ſuc- - cccd, 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 389 ceed, and communicatcd to me the following particulars of his reception. On landing, he was received with great marks of friendſhip and cordiality by Enemoh, who is an elderly chief; guardian to the children of Taio, king of the iſland, and regent during his abſence. At ſome diſtance the young prince was ſeated in a man's lap, to whom Mr. Puget haſtened to pay his reſpects, and had the ſatisfaction of ſeeing him well pleaſed with the preſents he made him on this occaſion. Having ſettled the buſineſs of their viſiting the ſhips, to which Enemoh had conſented, he was extremely anxious to become acquainted with the fate of the ſeveral articles which he had intruſted to the care of Williams and Nomateehetee the preceding evening. Much to their credit and honor, he not only found every thing he had conſigned to their protection and integrity, but alſo the muſket with its bayonet, and croſs cut ſaw, which had been loſt out of the canoe, but which in the courſe of the night had been recovered by the natives; who pro- miſed, that the axes which were not yet ob- tained ſhould likewiſe be reſtored, the inſtant they were recovered. The ſeveral articles being colle&ted and ſent down to the boat, with the man belonging to the Chatham who had been left on ſhore the preceding evening, Mr. Puget acquainted Enemoh that he was ready to attend B b 3 them 390 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, them on board. Ememoſ, replied that, with re- ſpect to himſelf, he had not the leaſt objećtion to accompany Mr. Puget with the young prince and Tipoone, a young chief about the prince's age, who ſeemed his principal companion; but that he was now prevented following his own in- clinations by the chiefs who were preſent, and ſome women apparently of great conſequence, who collectively demanded an hoſtage to be left with them on ſhore, whilſt we on board were honored with the company of theſe illuſtrious perſonages. On Mr. Puget's receiving and mak- ing known my orders, that Mr. Manby and Mr. Sheriff ſhould remain behind in compliance with their deſires, a general approbation was expreſſed by all preſent, and the regent with ſome attend- ants embarked; ſaying, that on his return the prince and his young friend ſhould go on board, but that the iſland could not be left without either the prince or the regent. On Enemoh’s coming on board he affected to recolle&t me, and ſaid we had been acquainted when I was at Attowai with Captain Cook; and, to recall himſelf to my remembrance added, that he was preſent, when I gave a lock of my hair to Taio, which Taio had ever ſince preſerved, and always carried about him; and that he, Enemoh, had on that occaſion requeſted a ſimilar pledge of friendſhip, which, however, I thought proper º -- to 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 391 to decline. Theſe circumſtances were very likely to have taken place, although at the moment they did not recur to my memory. A dozen hogs, and a quantity of mats and cloth, being preſented by Ememoh, I made no delay in offering a ſuitable return, with which, however, he did not ſeeem either dclighted or ſatisfied. This produced an inquiry on my part; on which he frankly acknowledged, that the pre- ſent I made him was a very liberal one, but that he would gladly give up the whole for a muſket, or even for a piſtol. Theſe engines of deſtruc- tion had been uniformly ſolicited with the greateſt ardency, by every native of the leaſt conſequence with whom we had any dealings; and I had fre- quently been much perplexed how, without of fence, to refuſe complying with requeſts ſo im- portunate, and, at the ſame time, in my humble opinion, ſo repugnant to the cauſe of humanity. On this occaſion I availed myſelf of our peculiar ſituation, as it had reſpect to the trading veſſels which he had been accuſtomed to viſit; and in- formed him, that the ſhip, and every thing ſhe contained, belonged to his Majeſty King George, who had tabooed muſkets, piſtols, and various other articles. On this gunpowder and balls were immediately ſolicited ; but, on being told that theſe were under ſimilar reſtrictions, he re- mained filent, and ſeemed very thoughtful. At B b 4 length, 392 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [Manch, length, conceiving no importunities would avail, he recovered himſelf, and became as ſuddenly cheerful, as on the refuſal of his favorite weapons he had ſeemed dejećted. He now ſhook me very heartily by the hand, and ſaid, ſince arms and ammunition were tabooed, he muſt acknowledge that the preſents he and his friends had received were very ample, and that they had reaſon to be highly ſatisfied. Enemoh recommended in the ſtrongeſt terms the attendance of Nomateehetee and Too on our paſſage to Onehow, where they would be very ſerviceable in procuring us the dif- ferent produćtions, and would prevent any diſ- orderly behaviour on the part of the inhabitants. His opinion of his own importance was greatly flattered by our ſaluting him with four guns on his departure; and he took leave with every ap- pearance of being extremely gratified with his viſit. Mr. Puget, who had to execute the remaining part of his embaſſy, attended the venerable old chief and his ſuite on board the Chatham, where they paid their reſpects to Mr. Broughton; and, having received ſome preſents from that gentle- man, they proceeded to the ſhore. On landing, Enemoſ, expoſed the ſeveral articles which had been given to him, and recounted the treatment he had received. Although Mr. Puget was much pleaſed with the 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD . 393 the ſatisfaction and happineſs which the viſit had afforded all preſent, he was much diſappointed on underſtanding that the embarkation of the prince and his young friend would not take place. On his ſearching for the cauſe of this ſudden al- teration, and pointing out to Enemoh the recep- tion he had met, the preſents he had received, and aſſuring him, that we had no wiſh or deſire but to ſhew the ſame marks of reſpect and friend- ſhip to Tamooere, which he had given us an op- portunity of paying to him (all of which were readily admitted) Enemoh, with ſome heſitation, explained; and at length the reaſon was diſco- vered to have proceeded from their having ob- ſerved, that the two gentlemen who had been left as hoſtages, were down on the beach near the boats, and thcy ſuppoſed were going on board without waiting the return of the prince to the ſhore. Mr. Puget inſtantly removed their ap- prehenſions, when all objections ceaſed ; and the prince and his young companion were now as eager to get to the boat, as they before had been willing to return on the demur of the regent; from whom Mr. Puget underſtood, that ſome hogs and vegetables were every minute expected to arrive. But not thinking it adviſeable to wait, leſt any other objećtion might ariſe and detain the prince on ſhore, he immediately put off, leaving 304 A voy AGE of Drscovery [MAR cir, leaving Mr. Manby and Mr. Sheriff in their for- mer ſituation as hoſtages. I was much pleaſed with the appearance and behaviour of this young prince, who ſeemed to be about twelve years of age. In his counte- nance was exhibited much affability and cheer- fulneſs; and, on cloſely obſerving his features, they had infinitely more the reſemblance of an European than of thoſe which generally charac- terize theſe iſlanders; being deſtitute of that na- tural ferocity ſo conſpicuous in the perſons about him. In theſe reſpects, and in the quickneſs of his comprehenſion and ideas, he greatly ſurpaſſed his young friend and companion Tipoone. At firſt, he was not without conſiderable agitation, marked as evidently by the ſenſibility of his coun- tenance, as by his actions; in conſtantly clinging to me, and repeatedly ſaluting me according to their cuſtom, by touching noſes. I ſoon diſſipatcd his fears by a few trifling preſents, and encou- raged him to viſit every part of the ſhip. His inquiries and obſervations, on this occaſion, were not, as might have been expe&ted from his age, direéted to trivial matters; which either eſcaped his notice, or were by him deemed unworthy of it; but to ſuch circumſtances alone, as would have authorized queſtions from perſons of ma- tured years and ſome experience. He conducted himſelf * 1792.] t Roux D Trie woxLD. 295 himſelf with a great degree of good breeding, and applied to Rowbottom or Williams, who were with him, to know if he might be permitted, or if it were proper, to make this, or that inquiry; and never moved forward, or ſat down, without firſt inquiring, if, by ſo doing, he ſhould incur any diſpleaſure. It was now about our dinner- time. His young friend Tipoone did not fail to partake of our repaſt, whilſt the prince ſeemed infinitely more entertained with the ſeveral new objećts that ſurrounded him, and, I believe, would have returned to the ſhore perfeótly ſatis- fied with his viſit, had I offered him nothing more. Conſidering, however, that ſome acknow- ledgment was due for their care and honeſty in reſtoring not only the articles, which through neceſſity had been committed to their charge, but ſuch as were recovered from the ſea ; when dinner was ended I preſented Tāj;coere with nearly a duplicate affortment of the valuables I had in the forenoon given to Enemioh, with ſome few other things that ſeemed particularly to at- tract his attention. Amongſt theſe was a quan- tity of wine and run, for which theſe iſlanders, like our ſouthern-friends, have acquired no in- confiderable reliſh. I preſented likewiſe to his friend a collection of valuables; and gave to cach of his attendants ſome trivial article, with which they ſeemed agreeably ſurprized, as this compli- IYYCht 396 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, ment was expected by none of them. Our coun- trymen who were in the habit of living with the prince, were inſtrućted to impreſs on the minds of the royal party and the inhabitants in general, that the liberality they had experienced was wholly to be aſcribed to their own civil, orderly, and honeſt behaviour; and, that, (in addition to what they had received) as a particular teſtimony of my approbation of their condućt, if they would remain on board until it was dark they ſhould be entertained with a diſplay of fire-works. Tamoo- ere, though well ſatisfied that our intentions were pacific and friendly, and though perfectly recon- ciled to his ſituation on board, yet requeſted he might be permitted to go on ſhore, and, if Ene- moh had no objećtion, he would return. He in- treated us to remain a few days, to enable him to make us ſome return for our civilities, in hogs and vegetables; a ſupply of which he expc&ted were already at the beach ; but as we had ac- compliſhed all the buſineſs for which we had iſtopped at this iſland, and being deſirous of ob- taining from Onehow a ſtock of yams, (a vege- table that Attowai did not at that time afford) I gave the young prince to underſtand, that if the wind ſhould prove favorable in the courſe of the night, we ſhould, on a certainty, depart for One- how. After viſiting the Chatham with the prince, Mr. 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 397 Mr. Puget returncé with his charge to the ſhore, where the party was received with the greateſt cordiality by a large concourſe of the natives, who, under the reſtrićtions of the taboo, were kept in excellent order. The prince was carried on a man's ſhoulders and ſcated in the houſe which our officers occupied. There he was ſoon joined by Enemoh, with a large train of atten- dants, who unanimouſly expreſſed their ſatisfac- faction and gratitude for the treatment their young chief had experienced; of which, the va- luable preſents brought from the ſhips bore un- deniable teſtimony. Not ſecing, nor hearing any tidings of, the promiſed ſupply of proviſions, nor diſcovering any inclination in the royal party to return for the purpoſe of attending the fire-works, Mr. Puget took his leave and repaired on board. Previouſly to his quitting the ſhore, the prince found out that the exhibition could be cqually well ſeen from the beach, and therefore requeſted he might be indulged. º As our young friend was anxiouſly waiting, with a large crowd of his countrymen, in expec- tation of ſomething new, as ſoon as it became dark I ordered ſome ſky and water rockets to be diſplayed. Nomateehetee and Too, who, with ſc- veral of the natives, male and female, had begged a paſſage to Onchow, obſerved the rockets with 7 infinite 308 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, infinite ſurprize and admiration, as did the con- courſe of people aſſembled on ſhore; which was announced to us by their repeated burſts of accla- mation, diſtinctly heard, though at the diſtance of nearly two miles. - I ſhould be guilty of an unpardonable injuſtice to theſe people, were I to neglect this opportu- nity of obſerving, that the faithful performance of their engagement with Mr. Puget, combined with thoſe principles of honeſty that direéted the reſtoration of the articles recovered from the ſea, produced in our minds opinions very contrary to thoſe which we had, perhaps too haſtily, formed of Attowai, on the report of the recent viſitors to this country; and which, on the prejudice of our firſt impreſſions, were confirmed greatly to the diſadvantage of the general chara&ter, to which, it now appeared, theſe iſlanders were en- titled. The reports, however, ought not to be conſidered as having originated without cauſe; though, in all likelihood, tranſgreſſions may have been committed by ſtrangers as well as by the natives, and the want of a ſufficient knowledge of each other's language, may have provoked mutual aggreſſion, which otherways would not, ſo repeatedly, have produced miſunderſtandings. That the natives had not been faithfully dealt with on all occaſions, ſeemed evident, from the prince or regent demanding an hoſtage for their ſafe \ 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 399 ſafe return, on their conſenting to venture thcm- ſelves amongſt us; a circumſtance that had never before occurred in any of my viſits to the iſlands in this ocean. That they are capable of being taught by proper leſſons and examples how to reſpect the property of others, is placed out of doubt by the czerciſe of thoſe principles of recti- tude that dire&tcd the honorable reſtoration of the muſket and tools which they recovered from tea ſea; and this alſo affords reaſonable grounds to believe, that, on their being convinced that irregularities and frauds are not to be committed with impunity, all the inhabitants of theſe iſlands would ſoon be induced to avoid diſgrace and pu- niſhment, and ſecure the advantages reſulting from the friendſhip of the more civilized world. We might poſſibly be in ſome meaſure indebted for the good behaviour of the natives, to the con- fidence that the chiefs had reaſon to ſuppoſe was placed in their integrity. This, when repoſed in their chiefs or reſponſible perſons, I have, in for- mer inſtances, ſeen attended with the moſt happy effect. - The people of the ſeveral nations who have viſited theſe iſlands, are well known and diſtin- guiſhed by the inhabitants. I was extremely well pleaſed to underſtand that the three reſident men, though at preſent in the ſervice of an Ame- rican, had uſed every endeavour to impreſs on the . 4OO A voy AGE OF Discovery [MARCH, the minds of the natives the moſt favorable opi- nion of the Engliſh ; and I was made very happy on being convinced of the ſtrong predilećtion and attachment which the young prince had conceived for the ſubjećts of Great-Britain. This prepoſſeſſion, if properly cheriſhed, may even- tually be highly important to the Britiſh traders; for, if concluſions may be permitted to be drawn from the general deportment and manners of his early years, the riper ones of this young prince muſt be attended with a very conſiderable de- gree of conſequence in this part of the world. This preſumption appears the more warrantable, by the ſplendid atchievements, and the example he will have had exhibited by his father, who has raiſed himſelf to the high ſtation he at preſent fills by his perſeverance and proweſs in military exploits. The predilećtion of the prince was not only conſpicuous in the attention ſhewn to Rowbot- tom and his comrades, whoſe perſons and pro- perty he had made ſacred by their conſtantly re- fiding with him, and by his making them his companions in all his diverſions and amuſements, but in his having aſſumed the title of King George; not ſuffering his domeſtics to addreſs him by any other name, and being much diſ- pleaſed with us, as well as his countrymen, if we called him Tamooere. Beſides 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 4O1 Beſides the different articles of traffic with which I preſented this promiſing youth, were a male and female goat, and two geeſe; Mr. Broughton added a third; and we had hopes they were of different ſexes. He had likewiſe an ewe and a ram in moſt excellent condition, left by Mr. Colnett; theſe had bred, but their progeny had been unfortunately killed by a dog. Not- withſtanding this accident, there was every proſ- pećt of their future propagation and ſucceſs. From Mr. Puget I learned, that there appeared in none of his tranſactions with the royal party any marks of external reſpect towards them, either from the ſubordinate chiefs, or the common people. When I was at theſe iſlands with Cap- tain Cook, proſtration was very uſually obſerved, and ſeemed then to be demanded even by chiefs, though not of the higheſt rank. On this occa- ſion, the only circumſtance which proclaimed the prince's ſuperior rank, was a guard conſiſting of about thirty men, armed with iron pahooas, who attended him and the royal perſonages on all excurſions, carrying thirteen muſkets made up into three bundles, with ſome callibaſhes con- taining ammunition, of which it was thought expedient we ſhould be apprized previous to their viſit, left ſuch formidable appearances ſhould create in us diſtruſt or ſuſpicion. During the Vol. I. C c time AO2 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, time our party was employed on ſhore, an armed man was ſcarcely ever ſeen; and ſuch of the natives who appeared ſo provided, brought their weapons for the purpoſe of ſale only. About three in the morning of Wedneſday the 14th, we ſailed with a fine northerly breeze for Onehow, in order, whilſt the decks of the Chat- ham were caulking, to take on board ſuch yams and other vegetables as we might be able to pro- CU11'C. On our arrival at Onehow, we anchored in 14 fathom water off the ſouth part of the iſland, about 3 of a mile from the ſhore; its ſouth-eaſt point bearing by compaſs S. 77 E. its weſt point N. 48 W. and the iſland of Tahoora S. 58 W. Finding the bottom here ſoft, ſandy, regular, and good, I was induced to prefer this anchorage to a ſituation I had been in, further to the N. N. W. as the ſurf broke with great violence on the N.W. ſide of the iſland, though here we rode very ſmoothly. Nomateeketee wiſhed we had proceeded further weſt; ſaying, the natives would have a great way to bring us their yams and other pro- dućtions. The ſtation we had taken was not however attended with any ſuch inconvenience; as, by Friday the 16th, in the afternoon, we had purchaſed a very ample ſupply: and the Chat- ham's deck being now finiſhed, about ſix in the - evening. 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 403 evening we proceeded together towards the coaſt of America. On our departure, the two Engliſhmen with our other friends took their leave, who, for the good ſervices they had rendered us, received ac- knowledgments far beyond their moſt ſanguine expe&tations. The ſupply of refreſhments which the Sand- wich iſlands on this occaſion had afforded us, was undeniably a very ſcanty one. This, however, I did not ſolely attribute to ſcarcity, as I had fre- quently great reaſon to believe an abundant ſtock might have been procured, had we been inclined to have purchaſed them with arms and ammuni- tion; with which, through the unpardonable condućt of the various traders, who have viſited theſe iſlands, the inhabitants have become very familiar, and uſe theſe weapons with an adroitneſs that would not diſgrace the generality of Euro- pean ſoldiers. Their great avidity for procuring theſe deſtrućtive engines may poſſibly have been increaſed by the ſucceſſes of Tianna, who, it ſhould ſeem, is principally indebted for his pre- ſent exaltation to the fire-arms he imported from China, and thoſe he has ſince procured from the different traders. His example has produced in every chief of conſequence an inordinate thirſt for power; and a ſpirit of enterprize and ambition C c 2 i ſeems 404 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, feems generally diffuſed amongſt them. If reli- ance is to be placed on the information which I received, the flame of theſe unwarrantable deſires has been raiſed by the practice of every ſpecies of artifice and addreſs in their European and Ame- rican viſitors; who have thereby enhanced the value of ſuch deſtructive articles of commerce. For theſe alone the natives now ſeem inclined to exchange the valuable refreſhments, with which there can be little doubt theſe iſlands ſtill abound. The evil of this trade will be materially felt by veſſels that may have occaſion to reſort to this country, unequipped with military ſtores for the inhuman purpoſe of barter with theſe people; and it is much to be apprehended the miſchief will extend conſiderably further, as we have been acquainted, by the late adventurers in the fur trade, that theſe iſlanders have tried various ſchemes to deſtroy the crews, and to gain poſſeſ- ſion of ſome of the trading veſſels, in which they ſucceeded too well with Mr. Medcalf's ſchooner at Owhyhee. Theſe ambitious deſigns however, had been rendered in moſt inſtances ineffectual, by the ſuperiority alone which the traders poſ- ſeſſed in fire-arms; and yet, neither the convic- tion of their own ſecurity being wholly dependant on theſe powerful means of defence, nor the com- mon principles of humanity, ſeem to have had . fufficient 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. AO5 ſufficient influence to reſtrain a traffic, encou- raged by avaricious purſuits in defiance of all moral obligation. The alteration which has taken place in the feveral governments of theſe iſlands ſince their firſt diſcovery by Captain Cook, has ariſen from inceſſant war, inſtigated both at home and abroad by ambitious and enterprizing chieftains; which the commerce for European arms and ammuni- tion cannot fail of encouraging to the moſt de- plorable extent. If we may be allowed to decide by comparing the numerous throngs that appeared on the firſt viſits of the Reſolution and Diſcovery, and which were then conſtantly attendant on all our mo- tions, with the very few we have ſeen on the pre- fent occaſion, the mortality muſt have been very conſiderable. It may however be objećted, that the novelty of ſuch viſitors having, at this time, greatly abated, is ſufficient to account for the ap- parent depopulation. But when it is conſidered how eſſential our different implements and ma- nufactures are now become to their common comforts, that reaſon will not apply; as every individual is eager to bring forth all his ſuper- fluous wealth, on the arrival of European com- modities in the market. At Whytcete I had occaſion to obſerve that, although the town was extenſive, and the houſes numerous, 406 A voyage of Discovery [MARCH, numerous, yet they were thinly inhabited, and many appeared to be intirely abondoned. The willage of Whymea is reduced at leaſt two-thirds of its ſize, ſince the years 1778 and 1779. In thoſe places where, on my former viſits, the houſes were moſt numerous, was now a clear {pace, occupied by graſs and weeds. That exter- ºnal wars and internal commotions had been the cauſe of this devaſtation, was further confirmed by the reſult of my inquiries off Owhyhee, when it did not appear that any of the chiefs, with whom I had been formerly acquainted, excepting Tamtaahmaah, was then living; nor did we un- derſtand that many had died a natural death, moſt of them having been killed in theſe deplo- rable conteſts. The ſhort time we remained among theſe people, did not allow of my obtaining the ſatis- fa&tory information I ſought, and which was ſo very deſirable on this, as well as on other impor- tant topics. This has induced me to reſerve the fubject matter I had collected, until I ſhould have an opportunity of going into a more correót in- veſtigation: for the preſent, therefore, I ſhall take leave of the Sandwich iſlands, by ſtating the advantages which the Americans promiſe themſelves by the commercial intereſts they are endeavouring to eſtabliſh in theſe ſeas. Previouſly to the departure of Rowbottom and Williams, 1792.] Roun D THE worr.p. 407 Williams, they informed me, that their captain had conceived a valuable branch of commerce might be created, by the importation of the ſan- dal-wood of this country into India, where it fells at an exorbitant price; that, in the fur trade, immenſe profits had been gained, inſomuch that it was expected not leſs than twenty veſſels would, on theſe purſuits, ſail with their captain (Kendrick) from New England, and that they were deſired to engage the natives to provide fe- veral cargoes of this wood, which is eaſily pro- cured, as the mountains of Attowai as well as thoſe of Owhyhee, abound with the trees from which it is produced; though we were not able to procure any of their leaves, to determine its particular claſs or ſpecies. The wood ſeemed but ſlightly to anſwer the deſcription given of the yellow ſandal wood of India, which is there a very valuáble commodity, and is ſold by weight. The pearls H ſaw were but few, and conſiſted of three ſorts, the white, yellow, and lead colour. The white were very indifferent, being ſmall, irregular in ſhape, and poſſeffing little beauty; the yellow, and thoſe of a lead colour, were better formed, and, in point of appearance, of ſuperior quality. Mr. Kendrick muſt, undoubtedly, flat- ter himſelf with great emoluments from theſe branches of commerce, or he would not thus have 2 retained 408 A voyage of Discovery [MARCTI, retained three men in conſtant pay for ſuch a conſiderable length of time, with a promiſe of further reward if they condućted themſelves with fidelity towards his intereſt. This proceeding, however, appears to have been the effect of a ſudden thought, as it was not until his brig was weighing anchor at Onehow that he came to this determination, and landed the three men; who, in conſequence of ſuch ſhort notice, had no means of equipping themſelves, and were left almoſt deſtitute of apparel. The few clothes they had were nearly worn out; theſe I replaced with a ſufficient ſtock to ſerve them ſome time; and, to add as much as poſſible to their comforts in their preſent ſituation, and to make them reſpec- table in the eyes of the people with whom they were yet to remain for ſeveral months, they re- ceived ſuch tools and articles of traffic as would beſt anſwer their purpoſe, and ſome books, pens, ink, and paper, for their amuſement, with an aſ- ſortment of garden ſeeds, and ſome orange and lemon plants that were in a very flouriſhing ſtate. To the care of Rowbottom, who ſeemed the moſt qualified, I intruſted a letter of inſtructions to the commanding officer of the ſtore-ſhip, whoſe arrival we daily expečted; as alſo one to the Lords of the Admiralty, acquainting them with the time we had quitted theſe iſlands, the ſtate 1792.] ROUND THE WORL15. . 409 ſtate and condition of the veſſels, and health of their crews, the route I had taken to this ſtation, and the diſcoveries we had made. Kendall's chronometer, agreeably to its error and rate of going as aſcertained at Otaheite, agreed ſo well on our arrival at Owhyhee, that I was not at all ſolicitous for any further inveſti- gation. Our obſervations in Whymea road made its latitude 21° 57%, and its longitude, by the chronometer, 200° 18′ 15,” varying 5' 15" to the caſtward of Captain Cook's, and 1' 45° to the weſtward of Captain King's aſſigned true longitude of the roadſted; whence I concluded its rate of going very correót. The Portſmouth rate ſhewed 201° 40' 45". Mr. Arnold's chronometer, on board the Chatham, made the longitude of Why- mea, according to its Otaheitean rate, 199°58' 30". Our anchorage at Onehow, by obſervation, was in latitude 21° 46' 30", the longitude, by the chronometer, 199° 40'. This ſtation is to the E. S. E. of the ſpot where the Reſolution an- chored, and which is laid down by Captain Cook in latitude 21° 50', longitude 1 90° 45'; conſe- quently, our obſervations place the ſouth point of Onehow nearly in the ſame latitude, though 8/ further to the weſtward, and two leagues further diſtant from Why mea. The Portſmouth rate ſhewed the longitude to be 201° 5'; but Mr. Ar- VoI. I. 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