NJ NJ o <+ CN • Transportation ^, & C., ( - 4. Z. sc. y O S G O O D's ©es. - C. c. 68. \ º **, *, * * g-ſº { is *. º º, r * * - Complete * * f. .* * * * * ; P O C K E T – GUI DE E U R O PE REVISED AND ENLARGED. B O S T ON JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY .*.*.*.*.*, *, * * * * 1884. .*, * * * * * * . . . . " 3. & - ** * * * * * * * s ~. * . ; : * * X .* * * : * . . :: * * * * . - 3 *...' . .* == # *. * * * * *** * *# - *-* -xx ºr -, * * * *s. * * * * * * *, * * -->4 ADDENI)A FOR 1884. TRAVELLERs bound to the East will find it interesting to take the new and short route through the Austrian Tyrol, opened in 1883 by the completion of the Volta RLBERG TUNNEL. Travellers going from the Continent to England by night trains on Saturday night will find that their baggage, al- though it may be registered through to London, is taken out at Dover and into the Custom House there for examina- tion. By making a note of this fact, and by being civil and prompt in aiding the customs officers in their duty, travellers will lose nothing. If they forget it, as is often the case, and arrive in London without their baggage, or, when their at- tention is called to the necessity of examination in Dover, they have any difficulties because they are surly, they have only themselves to blame. Travellers landing at Liverpool will find that the enter- prising managers of the American Exchange in Europe have opened a branch under the Grand Hotel, nearly opposite the Great Western Hotel and Railway Station. In connection with the opening of this branch, the American Exchange proposes to make additional provisions for the comfort of passengers landing from ocean steamers at the docks, where the crowding, particularly in bad weather, is extremely dis- agreeable. Messrs. Thom As Cook & Son have been well and favor- ably known for nearly half a century as trustworthy leaders of tourist parties, and agents for distributing all kinds of in- formation about travel, both in Europe and America, as well as in the travelled regions of Asia and Africa. Their chief offices are at 261 Broadway, New York, and Ludgate Circus, London. Copyright, 1883 and 1884, By JAMEs R. . OSGooD & Co. All rights reserved. |ls.” " . * , , , º W.A.," " - j J. * ***, r*. **. º s:z & ... < ** y ~ *# & #. / o – g – 4 o' , , , ) iſ PUBLISHERS' NOTE. & / t This book is confidently offered to the public, as an improvement upon any Guide hitherto compiled for the use of travellers upon a journey through the por- tions of Europe generally covered in a single tour. It describes the most attractive routes in Great Britain, France, Germany, Holland, Belgium, Switzerland, Aus- tria, Italy, Portugal, Spain, Denmark, Sweden, Nor- way, and Russia. It is intended to supply a want felt by all tourists, – that of a more compacá Guide than any previously available, – of one that will prove nei- ther an encumbrance nor an embarrassment. SPECIAL ADVANTAGES. — 1. It is really what the name denotes, a PoCKET GUIDE, and can be carried in the vest or coat pocket of a gentleman, or in a lady’s dress-pocket or muff. 2. It is printed in legible type, and illustrated with excellent Maps of the coun- tries named, and the cities of London and Paris. 3. At the same time it includes fuller and better arranged details of Routes, Points and Objects of Interest, Fares, Hotels, Currency, etc., than are given in many guide- books of far greater proportions. Little will be found omitted that should be told, and it is believed that mul/um in parvo will justly apply to this book. The Pockef Guide is the work of experienced editors, and will be revised and kept up to the latest schedules of travel, from year to year. The Publishers will be glad to learn of any errors that may be found in this edition, and will promptly set them right. The new Telegraph Code, printed in this edition (and here only), will be found of great value to travellers. JAMES R. OsgooD & Co. ABBREVIATIONS. M. . . . . Mile, or miles. d. . . . . Penny, or pence. ft. . . . . Feet. fr. . . . . Franc, or francs. in. . . . . Inches. C. . . . . Cents, centimes, or cen. Sq. . . . . Square. tesimi. N. . . . . North. fl. . . . . Florin or florins. S. . . . . South. * ml..,mks. Mark, marks. E. . . . . East. pf. . . . . Pfennige. W. . . . . West. kr. . . . . Kreutzers. T. . . . . . Right (hand). 1. . . . . . Lira, or lire. 1. . . . . . Left (hand). r. . . . . . Reales. rly. . . . Railway. Sun. . . . Sunday. Stat. . . . Station. Mon. . . Monday. ch. . . . . Church. Tues. . . Tuesday. hr. . . . . Hour. Wed. . . Wednesday. min. . . . Minutes. Thurs. . Thursday. £ . . . . . Pounds sterling. Fri. . . . Friday. S. . . . . Shilling, or shillings Sat. . . . Saturday. k. . . . . Krone. The names of the most important towns, buildings, and collections are printed in full-faced type. Other notable places and objects, of less importance, have titles in italics. In many cases, as of churches and public buildings, conspicuous events, etc., the date of erection or of occurrence is placed directly after, in parentheses. Statements which have for many years been regarded locally as unchallengeable facts (e. g., the preservation of the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul in the Lateran Basilica, Rome), are repeated in these pages without comment. CONTENTS. Page A CHAPTER on TRAVEL . . . . . . . . . . . . Wii Arrangements for the Journey . . . . . . . viii Steamships. – The Ocean Journey . . . . . . * Money, etc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . XY Railway Travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . xvi. Hotel Expenses, etc. . . . . . . . . . . . *X IRELAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1. Killarney. — The Lakes . . . . . . . . . . 6 Dublin . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Belfast, Giant's Causeway, etc. . . . . . . . 23 North WALEs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 ENGLAND (Chester) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Liverpool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 English Lake District . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Scoti,AND (The Land of Burns) . . . & sº The Scottish Highlands . . . . . . . . . . 68 Stirling, Perth, Aberdeen . . . . . . . g Edinburgh. Melrose, Abbotsford . . . . . . . 85 ENGLAND (Newcastle, Durham, York) . . . . . . 95 Manchester, Lincoln, Derby . . . . . . . . 103 Coventry, Warwick, Stratford . . . . . . . . 112 London . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Excursions in Southern England . . . . . . . 151 Routes to the Continent . . . . . . . . . . 159 NoFTHERN FRANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Paris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , 168 Routes from Paris to Switzerland . . . . . . 198 BELGIUM tº ſº . . . . . 201 Brussels and Environs . . . . . . . . . . 204 Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, etc. . . . . . . . . 207 5-–F–– ~~~~3.3-ºxº-seº -> < º- N- MPER --- º º: -- ºr: - *~. - On - ºc - ºnes - -u -> º - -- º - Lºan wº º ----- º - ºncers’. ſ - - ºstº - * -roun - ". X .* - - uRiº cº - - - * \º ". º-º-º-º- + \*-*\ - - -o-º-º- º - s -- - - - u - - -º-o-c-E-L- ** Nº. º ºreº. Azzº * * we *…* \º º -- - - 3. | *... * *. - - - **** -* º *A ve º º - C. | *deaux º, *> -º-ºoº- - o Nº. - s sº - - - “a *. - * --- :^ *. º - - - - º **º. - Gºwon º *...* Neºsº. º - -- ow. º º: * - |- º - º º --- º ºl. - \ - N * º - sessº -\ ºr a º - -- - - º º - .nº *…* sº º sy-ſºº *、-------R-（3，:.，…， **--~~~~*~~~~~ ~~¿·*******************）&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&& MONEY. XV The custom-house officers search for cigars and spirits only; if you have neither, you will soon have your “luggage * on a cab or dray, and be on your way to the North Western or Midland Railway stations, or to your hotel. Money. — A Word of Explanation. In Great Britain the money is pounds, shillings, and pence (£ s. d.). In France, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, and Spain there is a decimal currency. In the first three countries the reckoning is in francs and centimes; in Italy it is in lire and centesimi; in Spain, in pesetas and reales. But gold and silver coins above five francs of any of the five above-named countries circulate freely in any one of them. The French twenty-franc piece, called Napoleon, or Louis, is cur- rent money anywhere in the Continent. In Holland the money is reckoned in guilders and cents. There are 100 cents in a guilder, which is 40 cents of our money. In Germany the reckoning is in marks and pfennige. The mark is about 24 cents gold, and there are 100 pfennige in it. A groschen, still used some- what, is ten pfennige. When you give one pfennig to a beggar, he never troubles you again. In Austria you must reckon in florins and kreutzers. The florin is 46 cents of our money, and is divided into 100 kreutzers. Austrian paper money, with which the country is flooded, and which is legal tender when coin is not contracted for, is 16 or 18 per cent below par. You will observe that in giving the local railway fares in these different countries, we have used abbreviations: Pounds, shillings, pence, £ s. d. ; francs and centimes, fr. c.; lire and centesimi, l. c.; reales, rs. ; etc. In Portugal the money is counted in reis, of which it takes xvi A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL, ten to make one cent, so that a cup of coffee seems to cost a princely sum. In Russia roubles and kopecks are the money. The gold coins most in use on the lines of travel which you are likely to take are sover- eigns and half-sovereigns (English); — the guinea (21s.) no longer exists, although it is still used in reckoning; — twenty, ten, and five franc pieces; twenty-mark and ten-mark pieces; Hungarian twenty-franc pieces; Spanish Isabels, worth a trifle more than sovereigns. Italy is struggling to resume specie payment, and her paper will soon be at par. It is now within 2 per cent of it. Be careful not to bring Italian or Austrian paper to Paris or London. You will lose very heavily on it. English and French bank notes are as good as #. The French have notes of one hundred, five hundred, one thousand, and five thousand ($1,000) francs, and these are extremely convenient to carry on the Continent. (See Comparative Table of Moneys in front of title-page.) Railway Travel.—This is a fruitful topic, and we can only offer you a few hints. You will find first, second, and third class everywhere ; and we have given the fares for each class in all cases when practicable. Ex- ress trains on the Continent have no third class; but in Great Britain all trains have it. We shall not pre- sume to offer any suggestions as to which class to take, except these : First-class is best for long journeys; second good enough for short ones; and third worth taking now and then, particularly in England and Germany, for the purpose of º, the common people. Second-class in Germany and Austria is almost as comfortable as first-class in England and France. On a long journey from France into Germany, you may frequently take “a mixed' ticket with advantage, i. e. first in France and second in Germany. A gentle- A WORD OF EXPLANATION. xvii man travelling alone and not afraid of a little fatigue may take third-class through from London to Glasgow or Edinburgh, or from London to Liverpool, saving just half the sum he would expend in first-class. In England and Great Britain, generally, people speak of “taking ” a ticket and “booking ” a place. The “booking-office” is where the tickets are sold. The conductor is called the “guard.” This phraseology appears to have been left over from the old coaching days. Be sure and attend to your “luggage” care- fully. Get a label pasted on any piece that you pro- pose to leave in the “luggage van,” and when you reach your destination, be on hand to claim your things. There is no checking system. Small bags, wraps, etc. can always be left in a “cloak room '' at any railway station for hours or days. Fees trivial. Employés are civil and obliging, but all expect small compensation. Do not make the mistake, either in Great Britain or on the Continent, of giving large gratuities. In the British Islands smoking-carriages are provided on every train; in France and some other Latin countries smoking is permissible, by general consent, in any carriages except those reserved for ladies only; in Italy, only in smoking compartments; in the Ger- manic lands smoking is wellnigh universal, although every train has its damèn-coupé, and its compartments Fºr nichtraucher. The coupés, or end compartments with windows in front, — another survival of diligence and coach customs, – may be hired at reasonable charges above the first-class fares, and should generally be engaged beforehand at the station. In France and Middle Europe generally the tariff is about 16 francs per seat per thousand kilometres. A party of four, going thrºugh from Paris to Cologne, or coming from Nice to Paris, will find a coupé worth taking. Although b xviii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. we have tried to make our little book so complete that you will hardly need to buy the local time-tables, you may now and then require them. “ Bradshaw,” price 6d., is the most compact for Great Britain; the Chaix “Guide des Chemins de Fer de l'Europe” will do for the Continent. It contains all that may be found in the local guides published in Germany, Switzerland, etc., costs only forty cents, and is corrected several times . Most guides are furnished with maps, from which you can gain very clear ideas of the location of the lines along which you travel. On excursions, remem- ber that return tickets can generally be had at a dis- count from the regular fares. Return tickets are usually available only on the day on which they are sold, and by the first train of the next. Saturday tickets, however, generally extend until the first Monday train. On the Continent the terms for returns are much more liberal than in Great Britain. “Circular tickets” are issued in nearly all countries, and ample information concerning them is given at railway stations, hotels, banks, and in the newspapers. Persons who follow our itinerary will not require these circular tickets; but to those who wish to go from Paris to Switzerland, and, after visitin that country, to return directly to France, we .# recommend them. There is a great variety of ex- cursion-tickets, and hotel-coupon arrangements, by which inexperienced travellers, or those who do not care to explore their own routes, may be aided in trav- elling, passing all over the Continent and the Levant under efficient chaperonage. Prominent among these is the agency connected with the American Exchange, under the direction of Mr. Barattoni, by whose kindly offices many American tourists have been enabled to make their foreign tours with com- fort and without anxiety. There are sleeping-cars RAILWAYS. xix on many English and Continental lines; the “Pull- mans” in Great Britain are like our own ; on the Continent the “Mann Boudoir Car” is in use. This latter is very comfortable, but the rates are extrava- gantly high. The Boudoir Cars are called wagons- liffs, “bed-wagons,” in most Continental countries; their office in Paris is No. 2 Rue Scribe. Between Paris and Vienna, Paris and Geneva, Paris and Turin and Florence, and often Rome also, Paris and Berlin and Russia, etc., there is a regular sleeping-car service. The Russian cars are larger and more elegant than the other Continental ones; and in Russia and Switzer- land a modified American railway-carriage, in which, however, class distinctions are kept up, is in use. The amount of baggage carried free in France, Spain, and Sweden is 66 pounds; in North Germany, Austro- Hungary, and Russia, 55 pounds; in Great Britain, any reasonable amount; in South Germany, Belgium, Holland, Italy, and Switzerland, there is no free bag- gage, but the rates are not extravagant. In some parts of Italy and Switzerland there have been great complaints that baggage has been plundered in transit by baggage-masters and train-men; hence the necessity for first-rate locks already mentioned. Parcels, and baggage when forwarded to be called for later, should be sealed. Indeed, the railway companies generally insist on this, and refuse articles which appear to be insecurely fastened. In all Continental countries, when your baggage is weighed, a receipt is given you, and the number on it corresponds to that pasted on the trunk or valise. Even if there is no excess of weight, You must have a receipt. In some cases, in going from an important city in one country to an impor. tant city in another, your baggage can be “registered through,” and examined when it reaches its destination; XX A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. in others, although registered through, it must be ex- amined at the frontier. The examination is a pure formality almost everywhere. In vexatious cases noth- ing is gained by grumbling and scolding. Small fees to railway servants, guards, etc., always meet with prompt return in civility and privilege. At all German and Swiss railway dépôts, apply to the portier for information. In Italy the railway facchini are paid according to tariff, -4 soldi (cents) for a trunk, 2 for a bag or valise, and in proportion for a bundle of wraps, etc. In Rome, however, this tariff is raised to 5 and 3 soldi. The refreshment rooms in England, Scotland, Italy, Spain, and North Germany are not very good; in other countries they are excellent. On long journeys carry your own basket, especially in Italy and Spain, where fruit, bread, and wine may be had in the open-air markets for a song, but in hotels are purposely held very dear. In Italy a window on the windward side of a railway carriage cannot be kept open if any person in the compartment objects. Hotel Expenses must naturally vary much according to taste and in- come of the traveller. Our lists of hotels are carefully selected, and we believe that the houses recommended will be found satisfactory. Great Britain is an ex- ensive country by comparison with Switzerland or taly; in Germany cities are expensive, small towns and country cheap. The American will notice with some surprise that life in Europe is, as a whole, no longer much if any cheaper than in America. To live even carefully at a first class-hotel in any part of Great Britain costs about four dollars or four dollars and a half daily, divided somewhat as follows: breakfast, HOTEL EXPENSES. xxi from two and six (two shillings and sixpence) to three and six; lunch, about same price; dinner, without wine, five shillings; room, from four and six to eight and six, and invariably one and six for attendance. Wines are as dear, with few exceptions, as in the United States. Then there are good hotels, where you may live at about ten shillings daily; and private boarding-houses in the large cities where it will cost from seven to ten shillings daily, -rarely under ten. A person very economically inclined may possibly live for six shillings daily, but not in rapid travel. On the Continent you may calculate that if you reach a hotel at nightfall, dine or sup and sleep, and take early break- fast there, your bill will be 12 or 13 francs. For a stay of some days you may manage not to spend more than from ten to fourteen francs daily. In large capi- tals, simply take room at your hotel, and your first meal there. The others can be had to suit your purse and convenience at restaurants. In Germany, Switzer- land, and some parts of Italy, the tables d'hôte are cheaper than the restaurants. If you want a cheap room in a hotel, say so; there is no surprise at economy in Europe. Candles are charged extra, but you are only bound to pay for those you actually use. Gas is rarely found in tº: In England soap is fur- nished; on the Continent, not. Washing can usually be done within 24 hours in all countries. When you buy a parcel and order it sent to your room, give the number of the chamber, and not your name. Fee the portier at Continental hotels; he will be useful. Give one of your dining-room waiters something, but give to only one. Never mind the head waiter’s sardonic frown. In France you will save money by taking your meals at the houses when the natives take theirs; out of hours you pay special prices. By asking for “ice- xxii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. tº water,” i. can now get it almost everywhere. In Middle Europe drink ordinary wines, and dilute them with water, except at evening. The win ordinaire is pure and wholesome in all countries; it is made strong, to be watered. Examine your bills, and don’t allow over-charges, ... Omnibus from station is generally charged in bill. Baggage porter expects small fee when you go away. Insist on having your bill when you ask for it. You will find English spoken in almost all hotels. You can always post letters and generally send telegrams from your hotel, unless in some small country town. Telegraphy is cheap in nearly all European countries. When you reach London look in at the American Erchange in Europe, 449 Strand, opposite Charing Cross. There you will find that Messrs. Henry F. Gillig & Co. have made every con- ceivable arrangement for forwarding your letters to you wherever you may be. Before leaving America tell your friends to write to you, care American Ex- change, London (address as above), and be sure that if you keep the Exchange advised of ſº." address you ill never miss a mail. The charge for this service is very small. Register your name at the London and Paris offices of this institution, also at your banker’s ; and you may thus find friends or acquaintances who happen to be travelling abroad. In Paris you will find Messrs. Drexel, Harjes, & Co., John Monroe & Co., and other bankers well provided with post-offices, reading-rooms, and information about travel. If you need a courier (but you really do not), ask your banker or landlord for the address of one. Couriers are ex- pensive luxuries. We think all necessary information about cabs will be found in the text of the volume. Diligences are to be avoided as much as possible. In some places they CAUTIONS. xxiii are, however, indispensable. On steamboats on lakes and streams you may usually take free about twice as much baggage as by rail. Always make your bargains beforehand for private carriages. A few Cautions as to small matters may not be out of place. Should you go shopping on the Continent, especially in France, Belgium, Switzerland, or Italy, try to make up your mind from your inspection of an article in the windows whether you want it or not. The window is really the shop; everything is plainly marked, and if you go in and come out again without buying, the shopkeeper considers that you have made him waste his time, and does not conceal his disap- pointment from you. Should you take furnished apartments, be sure and inspect the inventory made of them before you move in. Do not violate any regu- lations, municipal or general, however trivial and use- less they may seem, for the laws are rigidly enforced. Secure seats at the theatres at least 24 hours before you intend to go, otherwise you will be badly placed. Avoid draughts in France id England, and in France do not leave your windows open at night. After climbing a Swiss mountain pass, be careful not to take cold; imprudence in the mountains often ruins a whole Summer. Wraps must be taken into galleries, churches, and palaces, especially in Italy, even in summer. In passing from sunshine to shade, gather your garments about you, and avoid chills. Treat servants in France and other Latin countries and in Switzerland as you Would in America, but in Great Britain and Germany and Austria keep them at a distance; they do not understand democracy, and would impose upon you. If you go to a poste restante (general delivery post-office), Present your name plainly written or printed on a card. In making pedestrian tours in out-of-the-way districts, xxiv. A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. do not lose your temper if the local officials are a little curious about your movements. In case of sudden illness in France, Italy, or Switzerland, call an Amer- ican or English physician. The French and Italian and Swiss doctors employ remedies which are sometimes too gentle for Anglo-Saxon constitutions, and often fail to prescribe sufficient nutriment. But a local physician who has had practice among foreigners is better than a foreigner. Language is not so great a barrier to communication as is imagined. If you get into a corner of Europe where no tongue that you can speak is understood, use English just as if the people knew what it meant, and make signs. You will get on famously. The little list of phrases at the end of this volume may be found an aid to those who have some familiarity with those languages most spoken in Europe. On general º however, it is better to use what little you now of a foreign language than to seek interpreters. You will be presumed to know more than you express, and you will make better bargains. Go to the United States Consul for information when • you are really in doubt and need advice. Not even then, if he is a political appointee and not a practical man. In the latter case only is he likely to have that acquaintance with the language, laws, and customs of the place, whereby he can aid you; while, if he has an important office and attends to it, he has little time for strangers who come without a business reason for their call. OS GOOD'S 3 # POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE. § I FRE I, A. N. D. THE majority of American visitors to Europe go first to Great Britain, proceeding directly by steam- ship to Liverpool, and leaving a tour through the pic- turesque and interesting island of Ireland among the possibilities of the last days of their pilgrimage. Our own impression is that those who go abroad as early as May or June would do better to land at Queenstown, and make a brief trip through the Emerald Isle, quitting it either via Belfast for Glasgow (where they can start on their journey in the Scotch mts.), or via Dublin and Kingstown, crossing the Irish Channel to Holyhead in 4 hrs., and going from Holyhead to Chester, Liverpool, and thence northward to the English Lake District, or to London, as best suits their humor. Thousands of persons return to the United States without having set foot in Ireland. They intended to go there; but after their long season of travel on the Continent they get back to London Somewhat wearied, as well as economically inclined, and the result is that they hasten to Liverpool, and fake ship for home, seeing naught of Ireland but the bold lines of its coast and the round towers which cap its highest cliffs. 1 2 QUEENSTOWN. Ireland is worth a visit of 3–5 days, and our ob- ject is to show the tourist how he may spend those days to advantage in that country. The steamships of most of the principal lines call at Queenstown, coming from and going to New York, Philadelphia, Boston, and other ports. Tugboats speedily convey passengers with their baggage from Roches Point, where the steamers stop, up to the town proper; and the noble port with its green water, the verdant hills crowned with handsome buildings and protected by fortifica- tions, and the pretty groves and forests, out of which white villas, peep, form a picture doubly pleasing to the eye of the visitor, after he has for many days seen nothing but sea, sky, and the ship that brought him OWer. Y- Queenstown (Queen's Hotel) is on Great Island, which lies in the magnificent bay or arm of the sea into which the river Lee pours its waters. The town was formerly called the “Cove of Cork,” and received its present name after Queen Victoria paid it a visit. It is built on the face of a hill sloping down to the shore; has a Catholic cathedral and a fine Protestant church, and a trifle more than 10,000 inhab. Invalids are attracted to Queenstown by the extreme mildness of its climate. Rev. Charles Wolfe, who wrote the famous lines on the burial of Sir John Moore, died of consumption here in 1823, and is buried on the island. The immense harbor of Cork, large enough to afford shelter to the combined navies of Europe at once, in its basin 10 square M. in area, is well defended by forts on either side the channel of entrance. On Spike Island there is a prison with room for 2,000 convicts. Hawlbowline Island contains ordnance stores and an armory. Rocky Island is a powder magazine, with 6 huge chambers, holding 10,000 barrels of gunpowder, IRELAND. 3 and quarried out of the solid rock. It was into Cork Harbor and Crosshaven Creek that Drake retreated when the Spanish fleet was hotly pursuing him. He succeeded in hiding his ships so ...i. at a spot known to this day as Drake's Pool, that the supersti- tious Spaniards attributed the disappearance to magic. There are three routes from Queenstown to Cork: by rail all the way (1s. 2d., 9d., or 6d.); by steamer to Passage and thence by rail (fares same as above); or by steamer up the river direct to Patrick’s Bridge. “It would be difficult,” wrote Sir John Forbes, “to | overpraise the beauty of the river from Cork to Queenstown, or the magnificent harbor or inland bay in which it terminates, more especially when these are seen under the influence of a bright sun and brilliant | sky.” At Monkstown, at a point where the river Lee widens into a lake, stands a castle, now in ruins. Cork (Imperial Hotel; Royal Victoria; Commercial; | Hibernian), the “capital of the South,” has a popula- tion of 80,000. It is situated on both banks of the | river Lee, which is crossed by numerous bridges. The Irish name of Cork signifies “a swamp,” and well de- scribes the location of the town. The Grand Parade, the South Mall, Great George's-St., Mardyke, and St. | Patrick's-St., on which stands a statue of Father Mathew, are the principal avenues. The Queen's College, a handsome quadrangular structure in the Tudor-Gothic tyle, is situated on a small hill near the S. fork of the tream. St. Ann’s Ch. is the most interesting edifice n Cork. It contains the “bells of Shandon,” of which Father Prout sang so melodiously. This ch. was built in 1722, and its curious steeple, three sides of which are of limestone, while the fourth is red, is 120 ft. high, and constructed of hewn stone from a Franciscan abbey where James II. had once heard mass, and from the : º: º 4 CORK. — BLARNEY CASTLE. ruins of a castle which had been the official residence of the lords-president of Munster. The Ch. of the Holy Trinity, founded by Father Mathew, who began his career as an apostle of temperance in Cork, is wor. thy a visit; and so is the Cathedral of St. Fionn Bar. This saint founded a monastery on the site of a heathen temple in Cork in the 7th century. The invading Danes, 200 years later, surrounded the little town with walls. Cork had its charter as a city taken away at the close of the 15th century, because it had received Perkin Warbeck, the impostor king, with royal honors. The charter was restored in 1609. Cromwell’s cruel- ties in Cork, in the War of the Protectorate, are still related by the inhabitants. William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, became a convert to Quakerism in Cork, where he heard the eloquent preaching of one Thomas Loe. Cork was surrendered to Henry II. in the 12th century by Dermot M'Carthy, Prince of Desmond; but the English invaders were harassed for centuries by petty Irish chieftains, and the sentiment of independent Irish nationality seems even nowadays conspicuously manifest in the neighborhood. The love- ly Wictoria Park of 140 acres may be seen on the way to Blarney Castle. Blarney Castle may be reached from Cork by rail in 16 min. But the best plan is to take a jaunting-car (about 3s. there and back) by the road on the N. . of the river. The distance is 5 M. Cormac M'Carthy built the massive donjon tower, 120 ft. high, and the lower portion, in the 15th century; and the famous Blarney Stone, which bore the inscription Cormach MacCarthy Fortis Mi Fieri Fecit A. D. 1446, now illegible, was clasped by two iron bars to a projecting buttress at the top of the castle, at the N. º, SeV- eral ft. below the level of the wall, so that the person IRELAND. 5 who wished to kiss it had to hold on to the bars, and project his body forward in most risky fashion. An- other stone, marked “ 1703,” stands within the tower in a place where it is quite accessible to kisses. “The Blarney Stone,” says Black's Picturesque Tourist of Ireland, “had long been a byword among the Irish : it is difficult to conjecture why, unless the glib tongues of the natives of this locality were supposed to be not the ordinary gift of Nature. But it had not reached its full zenith of talismanic power until 1799, when Milliken wrote his well-known song of ‘The Groves of Blarney.’ A curious tradition attributes to the stone the power of endowing whoever kisses it with the sweet, persuasive, wheedling eloquence, so perceptible in the language of the Cork people, and which is usu- ally termed Blarney.” There is an odd story about Blarney Lake, a pretty sheet of water, 3 M. from the castle. It is said that the Earl of Clancarty, who for- feited the property at the Revolution, sank all his fam- ily plate in a certain part of this lake; that three of the M’Carthys inherit the secret of the place where the treasure is sunk, any one of whom, dying, communi- cates it to another of the family, and thus perpetuates the secret, which is never to be made ºuli. until a M’Carthy is again Lord of Blarney. Other Excursions from Cork. — To Rostellan Castle and Cloyne, three times daily by steamer to Aghada. In Rostellan Castle is preserved an ancient i sword said to have belonged to Brian Boroihme, the : ancestor of the O’Briens. At Cloyne there is a 14th Century cathedral and a noted “round tower.” — To Youghal and the Blackwater. This excursion may be # made in a single day by taking an early train from | Cork to Youghal (28 M.), whence a steamer up the beautiful Blackwater River to Cappoquin, above which 6 LAKES OF KILLARNEY. point the stream is not navigable. At Youghal (Hotel: Devonshire Arms) is the “Warden's House,” the residence of Sir Walter Raleigh in 1588–89. It was there that he entertained Spenser when the poet was preparing his “Faerie Queene” for publication. It was also in Youghal that the first potato was planted in Ireland, by Raleigh. From Cappoquin the traveller may take the mail (jaunting-car) to Lismore, one of the most ancient towns in Ireland, twice daily (Sundays excepted). Castle of the Duke of Devonshire, on the site of the old University; visitors admitted. From Lismore the tourist can go by rail to Fermoy in 45 min.; from Fermoy to Mallow, 46 min,; and from Mallow he may return to Cork, reaching there in the evening, or may go to Killarney. Eillarney. The Lakes, and Lake Region. The traveller may go from Cork to Killarney by rail, via Mallow Junction, in about 3 hrs., 68; M. (11s. 6d., 8s. 4d., 5s.). This is the shortest, but the least inter- esting route. For those pressed for time, it is the best. By leaving Cork late in the afternoon one may reach Killarney in time to get a good night's rest, and, starting early on the following morning, may visit the most attractive points in the region, getting back to Mallow Junction in time to take a night train for Dub- lin. But those who are making a more leisurely tour will find themselves well repaid for taking either of the two routes via Glengariff. One of these leads from Cork by rail through Bandon to Dunmanway, and thence by coach to Glengariff (Royal Hotel ; Eccles'), thence to Kenmare (Lansdowne Arms), and so on through a barren and wild, but picturesque country, across the mts, and down to Killarney. The most | - ------- --- * --ruu-a- º º- * º - - ------- - *u- -------- IRELAND Osgood's Pocket Guide of Europe. ------- ------- - - ex, a Lºs - -º-o-º: ºc- º - - - Tº - - - - * - º-ºº: ***** -T"-errº-ººooo-º-º-º-oº- - --------- - | - - -º-, --- - ------ - wase-area. * *ºne- - --- - - --------- - ** -- - Naº - -- -*. - *** * *Nº". - - - sº * - º - . - - -- Map of * º, --- |-- …” * - ****º- --- so -->;--> - -- - - --- º - GREAT BRITAIN *... ." * - - "º. -- -º-º-º: - º º º --- --- -u-no- -------- ---------- º - - - *- º r ºvrº IRELAND. - * 7 } i i extensive view of Glengariff, a ravine about 3 M. long, and rich with yew, holly, and arbutus, is to be had from Old Berehaven road, near Cromwell’s Bridge. The beautiful grounds around Glengariff Castle are worth a visit. From Glengariff the journey may be extended to Bantry Bay, either by land or water. The latter way is preferable, affording an excellent view of the bold coast scenery. But we would recommend none of these ex- cursions to the seaside, unless the weather is entirely favorable. Nothing is drearier than an Irish wet day by the sea. The route from Cork to Macroom by rail, 18 M., and thence by jaunting-car to Glengariff, Ken- mare, and Killarney, is highly spoken of by travellers who have recently taken it. Both these above-mentioned ways require two days, and a trip to Bantry Bay will take another half-day. In summer a coach runs from Cork to Killarney, in one day, but does not pass through the most interesting places. (Fare by this coach, 19s.) Macroom is the place where the Irish Bards held their meetings, and a fine ivy-mantled castle may be seen there. In the vicinity of Kenmare there are many lovely views; and the river or bay of Kenmare is by some considefed the most beautiful on the Irish coast. Killarney (Royal Wictoria Hotel; Railway; Lake; Kenmare), population 5,000, lies about 1; M. from the N. E. margin of Lough Leane, or the Lower Lake. It possesses a cathedral, designed by Pugin, and a nunnery, with a school attached, where 400 girls are educated. The hotels generally command very good views of the lakes and the mts. The town is renowned for its beggars; and for the artifice of the peasantry in extorting sixpences from travellers, in return for some trifling and entirely superfluous service. Two days are required properly to see the lakes, the Gap of Dunloe, Muckross Abbey, and the Torc Cascade; 8 LAKES OF KILLARNEY. but if only one day can be given, the best plan is to engage a pony and ride from Killarney through the Gap of Dunloe to the head of the Upper Lake, º reviously ordered a boat to be in readiness at Lor }. Cottage on that lake. It is 15 M. from Kil- larney to this cottage, and many may prefer to walk rather than ride a stumbling horse, especially as they can rest in the boat while rowed down the lakes after- wards. Arrangements for horses, boats, etc., can usu- ally be made at the hotels. The tariff is established by local law, and there is no occasion to give more. The first object of interest on the road from Killar- ney to the Gap of Dunloe is a huge county lunatic asylum, and the next is the old ruin of Aghadoe, 2% M. from the town. All that remains of the once cele- brated castle is a fragment of a tower. Near by is a church, consisting of two distinct chapels of unequal antiquity, lying i. and W. of each other. The W. chapel is in the Romanesque style, and was under the patronage of St. Finian. The E. chapel dates from 1158, is in the Pointed style, and was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. There are a few fine country-houses on the road beyond Aghadoe. Lake View House, on the l., is the residence of a brother of the great O’Con- nell; Beaufort House is attractive; and Dunloe Castle, also on the 1., is celebrated as having been one of the residences of the powerful O'Sullivan Mor. The pres- ent proprietor has restored the castle. About 2 M. from the entrance to the Gap is the Cape of Dunloe (in a field not far from the road). This cavern was opened in 1838 by some laborers digging a ditch, and was found to be roofed with impost stones, in the angles of which were inscriptions in the ancient Ogham charac- ter, supposed to have been used by the Druids before the introduction of Christianity into Ireland. This IRELAND. 9 venerable storehouse of Irish history will have but small interest for the tourist, and he will do well to press on to the Gap. On his way thither he will pass the cabin in which the fair “Kate Kearney ’’ once re- sided, and will doubtless be invited by one of her descendants to exchange sixpence or a shilling for a mysterious drink of goats’ milk and wº Of the Gap of Dunloe an Irish writer has said: “It appears as if the vast range of mts., of which this most singular ravine is composed, were cleft in twain by a mighty sword: one is not surprised at its appear- ance having given rise to such a tradition.” It is a narrow defile 4 M. long, between the range of hills called “Macgillicuddy's Reeks” and the Purple Mt., a shoulder of the Tomies. The rapid stream called the Loe traverses the whole length of the glen, ex- panding at various places into five lakes known as the Cummeen Thomeen. The road is a mere bridle- path, sometimes on the very edge of precipices. The peasantry say that it was at the Black Lough, one of the small lakes, that St. Patrick banished the last snake from Ireland. Many travellers who are disappointed in the Gap of Dunloe find the view, just after leaving it, up what is called the Black Walley, extremely im- pressive. The Gap is bordered by rocky peaks vary- ing from 2,000 to 3,400 ft. in height; but the vast and desolate amphitheatre of the Black Walley, with its rugged masses of darkened rock, its circular basins of stà water filled with dissolved peaty matter, and its Wild and mysterious recesses, gives an impression of grandeur and wonder which its neighbor ravine fails to º The view down the valley in a warm, hazy ay, is very striking. The water in the lakes throws back the light which it receives by reflection from the sky, and thus seems to be lighted from below. 10 LAKES OF KILLARNEY. At numerous points in the Gap and on the Lakes there are superb echoes, and there is no lack of peas- ants to awaken them, and to claim a fee for having dome so. A narrow and rugged footpath leads down from the head of the Gap to Lord Brandon's Cottage, where the tourist who has ordered a boat before leav- ing Killarney will find it waiting for him. It is well to have lunch provided in the boat, so that one can take it as he is rowed down towards the Middle and Lower Lakes. From Lord Brandon’s Cottage one may ascend Purple Mt. (2,739 ft. high), and from the summit get a fine view of the Upper and Middle Lakes and a long stretch of the sea-coast beyond; but this would require half a day at least. The Lakes. – From the cottage, across the Upper Lake, 2% M., the boatmen row so as to show the tourist the numerous pretty islands. The first of these is M*Carthy's ; the second, Arbutus Island, completely covered with the beautiful plant whose name it bears. “The islands in the lakes of Cumberland,” says the author of Black’s Picturesque Tourist, “are either grassy, holms, with sometimes a piece of yellow whin to catch the eye, or perhaps a solitary tree or shrub, or, if larger, such as St. Herbert's and Lord's Isle on Derwentwater, bearing shady groves of ash and plane, mixed with every other variety of forest trees. The islands on the Killarney Lakes have a totally different aspect, produced entirely by the presence of the arbutus (Arbutus anedo). Even in winter the leaves are of a rich glossy green, and so clustered at the terminations of the branches that the waxen, flesh-like flowers, which hang in graceful racemes, or the rich crimson, straw- berry-like fruit, seem cradled in a nest of verdure.” The Upper Lake is thought by most people to be the finest of the three. On the S. lie the Derrycunihy mt. IRELAND. 11 ranges, and on the l. the high “Reeks.” . The Long Range is a river, rather 3 than 2 M. in length, connect- ing the Upper with the Middle Lake. Things to note here: Colman's Eye;. The Man of War; The Four Friends, a group of islets; The Eagle's West, a cliff which towers 700 ft. above the river (the echoes heard from this point are remarkably fine); Old Weir Bridge, an ancient structure, under which the water rushes swiftly. The small boat is carried through at great speed, and floats into a still pool called the Meeting of Waters, near Dinish Island, and then into the | Middle, which is also called Muckross, or Torc Lake. On Dinish Island there is a cottage where dinner may be had, if previously ordered from the hotel in Kil- larney in the morning. Tore Cascade can be visited from this point; but it will be better to take this in | conjunction with the visit to Muckross Abbey, a little farther on. Passing under Brickeen Bridge, the boat | enters Lough Leane, or the Lower Lake. The area of this is about 5,000 acres; its greatest length 5 M.; breadth 3 M. There are thirty islands, the principal one of which, the Ross, is the location of the last stronghold in Munster that surrendered to the Parlia- mentary army. The castle was built in the 14th cen- tury, by one of the O’Donoghues. The island of Innis- Jallen, midway in the lake, is celebrated in history and fiction; and that keen observer, Arthur Young, said of it that it was “the most beautiful in the king's do- minions, and perhaps in Europe.” The ruins of the noted abbey are pointed out. The “Annals of Innis- fallen,” a kind of universal history down to the time of St. Patrick, were written in this abbey about 600 years ago. The original copy of this curious work is now preserved in the Bodleian Library. In 1180 the abbey, into which all the treasures of the adjacent country l 12 MUCKROSS ABBEY. had been gathered for safe keeping, was plundered by Mildwin, son of Daniel O’Donoghue. The boatmen will tell the traveller quite as much as he will care to hear about the past of “sweet Innisfallen.” The part of the Lower Lake first entered is called Glena Bay. From the shore near Rabbit Island it is but a short walk to O'Sullivan's Cascade. Those who wish to visit Muckross Abbey on the same day as the Gap and Lakes, should arrange with their boatmen to land them at the point of the Lower Lake nearest to it. From the shore through the handsome estate of Mr. Herbert to the abbey is but a short walk. The noted ruins are those of a ch. and abbey, founded in 1440, partly restored in 1602, and still in decent preservation. In the ch. are many ancient tombs; among them, those of the O'Sullivans, M’Carthys, and O’Donoghue Mor. The arms of a gigantic yew-tree support the crumbling wall of a beautiful cloister. The trunk of the yew is 13 ft. in circumference. Fees are not exacted here ; but it is customary to give something. Muckross Abbey Man- sion is a fine example of the Elizabethan style of archi- tecture. Passing through Mr. Herbert’s grounds, the visitor is admitted at a small wicket (fee, 6d.) to the enclosure within which is the Tore Cascade. Climb up above the fall, which is 60–70 ft. high, and look down upon it and out over the lakes. Visitors may, if they wish, drive or walk through the grounds of the Earl of Kenmare to Ross Island and Castle. The island is connected with the mainland by a dike. From Muckross to Killarney the distance is about 3%. M. The entire round trip is not very fatiguing. We recommend the tourist to ride the first 11 M. to the Gap; walk 4 M. through the Gap to Lord Bran- don's Cottage; then the 13 M. across the lakes to IRELAND, 13 Muckross and the 3; M. into Killarney can be done easily before dark. Other Excursions from Killarney. — Ascent of Mount Mangerton (2,756 ft.). On the way one comes to the “Devil’s Punch Bowl,” a mountain tarn 2,206 ft. above the sea level. It occupies a basin 28 acres in extent. Charles James Fox swam around it in 1772. Ascent of the Reeks : interesting, but somewhat diffi- cult. Journey to Valentia : it is worth a day’s ride on a jaunting-car to see the mighty waves beating against the rocky cliffs of the Atlantic coast. The train from Killarney to Dublin (time, 7 hrs. ; fares, 34, 25, or 16s.) reaches the main line at Mallow Junction. Near Mallow are the ruins of Kilcolman Castle, where Edmund Spenser wrote the “Faërie Queene.” He obtained, in 1586, a grant of land from the forfeited estates of the Earl of Desmond, on condition that he should inhabit the country. In 1598 his castle was attacked by the native Irish, to whom he had rendered himself obnoxious, and his in- fant child perished in the flames which destroyed his home. He fled to London, and died of a broken heart, At Limerick Junction the main line from Dublin to Cork is intersected by the Waterford and Limerick line. Limerick (Cruise's Royal Hotel ; George ; Clare), on the Shannon, “the noblest of Irish rivers,” deserves a visit, which can be made in a day, including the re- turn to the line to Dublin. Limerick has nearly 40,000 inhab.; and contains a venerable cathedral transformed into a Protestant church, and a noble castle built in King John's time. Waterford (Adelphi Hotel; Imperial) merits a visit, ut is perhaps too far off the line of the vacation 14 WATERFORD. — CASHEL. — DUBLIN. tourist. It is a handsome town of 23,000 inhab., on the Suir ; and was the scene of many terrible fights between the Irish and the Danes. Between Limerick Junction and Dublin there are many places of histori- cal importance. From Goold's-Cross Słażion it is but 5 M. across country to the Rock of Cashel, which rises 300 ft. above the plain. Cashel was the residence of the Kings of Munster; and there Henry II. received the homage of Donald, King of Limerick, in 1172. Edward the Bruce also held a parliament there. Near Thurles are the ruins of Holy-Cross Abbey. Just beyond Portarlington the river Barrow is crossed on an iron viaduct 500 ft. long. Kildare, “the city re- nowned for saints,” is 30 M. from Dublin. It pos- sesses the ruins of a cathedral; and the Chapel of St. Brigid, called the “Fire House” because it is the sup- posed location of the fire which nuns kept burning night and day for a thousand years “for the benefit of poor strangers,” is still shown. . The “Curragh,” an ancient race-course, and now used as a military encampment and practice ground for soldiers, is just beyond Kil- dare. Sham fights are sometimes given there in the summer months. Near Hazelhatch station is Celbridge Abbey, once the residence of Swift’s “Wanessa.” Dublin and Vicinity. Two days can be spent to advantage in visiting Dub- lin, provided the weather be fair. May, June, and August are excellent months for the visit. But the hurried tourist can manage to secure a tolerable idea of the Irish capital by a ride of 3–4 hrs. on a jaunting-car, or by half a day’s leisurely walk. Dublin (Shelbourne Hotel; Gresham, good but rather dear; Morrison’s : Ribernian ; Imperial ; European ; Abbey; Jury’s Com- IRELAND. 15 mercial, cheaper and comfortable) is a city of 250,000 inhab., on the river Liffey, which divides it into two nearly equal parts, and, shortly below the town, widens into a fine bay, on one side of which rises the Hill of Howth, and on the other Killiney Hill, near Kingstown. Those who do not dread sudden showers should engage an open car by the hr. (1s. 4d. for first hr., and 6d. for each additional # hr.), and drive to the Bank of Ireland, Trinity College, Dublin Castle, Christ's Church Cathe- dral, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, the General Post-Office, Nelson's Monument, the Custom House, the Four Courts, and finally to Phoenix Park. This will enable one to judge pretty well of the main exterior attrac- tions. The shops in Dublin are quite as fine as those of London. The fine mall of Sackville-St., with its cut- granite Doric column to Nelson, 121 ft. high, is impos- ing, from Carlisle Bridge. The Liffey is navigable to this bridge; but no large vessels come above the Custom House, the finest building in the city. It is a handsome quadrangular structure, the principal front of which faces the river. Notice the allegorical compo- sition in the central portico. It represents Britannia and Hibernia in a marine shell, a group of merchant- men approaching, and Neptune driving away famine and despair. The dome is 120 ft. high, and bears on its summit a statue of Hope. From Nelson's Monument, a good view of the city and suburbs may be obtained. Fee for ascent, 6d. The statue of the hero is the work of a native sculptor, Thomas Kirk; and the sum of £6,856, which the memorial cost, was raised by subscription among Nelson’s Irish admirers. The General Post- Qffice has a majestic Ionic portico, surmounted by figures of Hibernia, Mercury, and Fidelity. The Four Courts, on King's Inn Quay, is the name of a handsome building, in which are the Courts 16 DUBLIN. of Queen's Bench, Chancery, Exchequer, and Common Pleas. It was begun on the site of an old Dominican monastery in 1776, and was completed just at the time of the union of the two nations. Cost about £200,000. The façade on the river is 450 ft. long. The great cir- cular hall in the centre is lighted by jets of gas, which issue from a torch borne in the hands of a gigantic figure of Truth. New buildings for the accommodation of the Land Courts have recently been erected near by. Phoenix Park contains 1,750 acres, fairly well laid out. Interesting reviews of troops are sometimes held there. Monuments in the Park. — The Wellington Tes- timonial, erected in 1817, at a cost of £20,000, by the Iron Duke’s fellow-townsmen of Dublin. This quadrangular, truncated obelisk of Wicklow granite has sunken panels on each side of its pedestal, contain- ing relievos in metal, three representing military pieces and the fourth containing the laurel-crowned head of the hero himself. The battles in which the Duke took part are inscribed here, and the bas-reliefs are made from captured cannon. — The Carlisle Memorial Statue, by Foley, in commemoration of Lord Carlisle's 8 years of vice-regency. On the r., near the entrance of the park, is the Military Hospital, and a little farther on the Constabulary Barracks. Within the park limits the Lord-Lieutenant has a summer residence. Zoëlogical Garden (admission, 1s. ; on Sun., 2d.), not far away. On the S. side of the river Liffey, and passing from Carlisle Bridge, through Westmoreland-St., at the E. side of which there is a statue of Tom Moore, one comes to the Bank of Ireland, in College Green. This was once used as the Parliament House. It was com- pleted in 1787, at a cost of £95,000, but was purchased in 1802 by the company of the Bank of Ireland for £40,000 and an annual rental of £240. The entrance IRELAND. 17 to the former House of Lords was by a portico on the E. side. The House of Lords (visitors admitted) re- mains unaltered, except that a statue of George III. occupies the site of the throne. Old tapestries, rep- resenting the “Siege of Derry” and “King William Crossing the Boyne,” are worthy of notice, as is also the mantel-piece of Kilkenny marble. Directly oppo- site the bank is Trinity College; and on either side of the entrance to it are the famous Sfatues % Goldsmith and Burke, by Foley. Trinity was founded in Pope John XXII.'s time, and was closed in Henry VIII.'s reign, but opened again by Elizabeth, who erected it into a corporation. In 1627 a new code of laws was framed for it. The civil wars of the Protectorate brought its fortunes to a low ebb ; but James I. and Charles II. endowed it liberally. The institution, which is open to all creeds, usually assembles about 1,400 students, and has educated some of the most renowned of modern wits. The Museum contains Brian Boroihme's harp and the charter-horn of King O’Kavanagh; the noble dining- hall is decorated with portraits of Grattan, Lord Avon- more, Chief Justice Downs, Flood, Lord Kilwarden, Prince Frederick, father of George III., and Lord , Cairns. Hewitson's fine monument to Provost Bald- win, in the building on the r. of the first courtyard, should be seen. The library contains nearly 300,000 Volumes, and in the E. end is a very valuable collection known as the “Fagel Library.” Note the Geological Museum and Lecture Rooms, in College Park. On College Green there is an equestrian statue in lead of William III., erected in 1701; and a statue of Grattan. Dublin Castle requires but slight notice, Nearly all trace of its original design is now lost. The Vice- ºgal Chapel and Apartments, St. Patrick's Hall, the Portrait Chamber, and the Private Drawing Room are 2 18 DUBLIN. shown by the attendants for small gratuities, except : during “the season.” The stained-glass windows of : the chapel contain the arms of all the Lord-Lieutenants. . Good music in this chapel Sunday forenoons. Band plays in the courtyard mornings. º St. Patrick's Cathedral occupies the site of a reli- i. gious edifice built by St. Patrick himself, near the well in which he baptized his converts. The present build- ing was begun by Archbishop Comyn in 1190, and : restored and much improved, after the destruction of a portion of it by fire, under the care of Archbishop Minot, in 1370. Monuments worth notice inside: ; one to Boyle, Earl of Cork; and one to the Duke of . Schomberg, with an epitaph by Swift, who was long Dean of the cathedral. Two marble slabs mark the resting-places of Swift and his “Stella” (Mrs. Hester Johnson). Sir B. L. Guinness, the brewer, had the cathedral repaired and restored in 1860–63, at a cost of £140,000. The Lady Chapel was used by George IV. as Chapter House for the Knights of St. Patrick. “ Christ's Church Cathedral is of ancient founda- tion; but the present structure is comparatively modern. : It was first erected in 1038, and enlarged in later days by Strongbow and Fitzstephen, and still later by Ray- mond-le-Gros. It was in Christ Church that the lit- 8 urgy was first read in Ireland in the English tongue. . Note Earl Strongbow's monumental tomb. The local guides will tell you the various conflicting reports con- ; cerning its authenticity. This edifice, like St. Patrick's, owes its restoration to a vender of strong drink, who º expended £200,000 on it. Stephen's Green is a hand- some square surrounded with fine mansions. On the W. side is the Royal College of Surgeons, erected in 1806–25. Museum : good collection. E. side: Royal College of Science. In centre of Green, a statue of . IRELAND. ls. | George II., by Van Nast. S. side : the Catholic Uni- | versity, the palace of the Archbishop of Dublin, and the Shelbourne Hotel. On Earlsfort Terrace is the pal- ace in which the Dublin Exhibition of 1872 was held. It was purchased by Sir Arthur and E. C. Guinness, and devoted to the public benefit. It contains one concert hall capable of seating 3,000 persons. | Offer Interesting Sights in Dublin. — The Royal Hibernian Academy, erected in 1824 for the promotion of the fine arts (exhibition opens in February; closes in July). The National Gallery, with a statue of Dargan in front, on the N. side of Leinster Lawn. Merrion- Row and Merrion-St. : the house in which Wellington was born in 1769; and at 30 Merrion-Square, the mansion where Daniel O'Connell resided for some | years. Birthplace of Tom Moore, 12 Aungier-St. Royal Dublin Society, and King's and Queen's College of Physicians, in Kildare-St. The City Hall, with Hagan's statue of O’Connell inside. The Corn Er- change, the meeting-place of the National Council in 1832, and of the Repeal Association later on. Con- ciliation Hall, now a corn store, but the scene of many of O'Connell's triumphs. Theatre Royal, Hawkins-St. The Poplin Manufactories: Dublin poplins are famous; and the industry is rapidly reviving. Excursions from Dublin. — To Glasnevin Cem- etery, where are graves and fine monuments of O'Con- nell, Steele, and Curran, 2 M. from the city. Botanic Gardens, near by...—Dublin to Howth : Several trains daily. Distance, 9 M. The peninsular Hill of Howth is the first landmark sighted on approaching Dublin from the sea. The route leads past Clontarf, the scene of Brian Boroihme's last victory over the Danes, to Howth, a pleasant village on the hill. From the har- bor an excursion in boat may be made to the island of f 20 DROGHEDA.— BRAY. “Ireland's Eye.” Boatman's fee, 2s. The Abbey of Howth is pleasantly located on a steep overhanging the ocean. On the Hill of Howth stands an ancient Cromlech, a huge oblong stone, about 14x12, supported on numerous others. It is supposed to be a portion of a sepulchral monument to a departed dº — Malahide (Royal Hotel), 9 M. from Dublin, has a notable castle and abbey. The altar-tomb in the ruined abbey is a memorial of the sad history of the lady who in one day was “maid, wife, and widow,” — the daughter of Lord Plunkett. — Drogheda (Im- . perial Hotel), 1% hrs. by rail from Dublin. This was s the first place attacked by Cromwell in 1649, and was carried by assault, led by the Protector himself. : Drogheda was also the scene of the “Battle of the Boyne,” fought, July 1, 1690, between the Prince of . Orange and his father-in-law, James II. An obelisk 150 ft. high marks the spot where William began the attack and where Schomberg fell. From Drogheda, Tara and Kells may be visited. º From Dublin to Bray and the Wicklow Mts. is a charming excursion. Bray, 12 M. from Dublin (Ma- : rine Hotel ; International), beautifully situated; head- tº quarters for trips to the Dargle (car, 2s.), to the is Waterfall (car, 4s.), to the Glen of the Downs (car, 3s. 6d.), to Greystones (car, 4s. 6d.). From Bray to the Devil’s Glen, the Seven Churches, and the Vale of Avoca, where “the bright waters meet,” is a prof- itable journey. Go by rail from Bray to Rathnew Stat., from Rathnew by car to Devil’s Glen, from Devil’s Glen by car to the “Meeting of the Waters,” in all about 38 M., and return by rail to Bray, 28 M. —From Bray to Hicklow, along the coast by rail, - desirable journey in bright weather. The Wicklow tº Mt. Section is rich in quiet beauty; the rly. fares along IRELAND. 21 the coast are moderate, and car-drivers must be held to the tariff. Purchase one of the excellent local guides, for descriptions of the scenery. If the tourist decides to go to Wales and England via Dublin and Holyhead, he can go to Holyhead via the North Wall route for 8s. or 4s., or via Kings- town for 12s. or 8s. We think most American tour- ists prefer the latter route. By rail from Dublin to Kingstown, 6 M.; thence across the Irish Chammel, 66 M., 4 hrs. There are two through services to London daily, - one leaving Dublin at 6.45, evening; the other at 6.45, morning. Tourists who wish to make the jour- ney by day would better go to Kingstown in the even- ing, and sleep on the boat which is to start next morning. This will cost 2s. extra. Then they can breakfast at their leisure, — if the Irish Channel leaves them any leisure. Kingstown (Royal Marine Hotel; Anglesea Arms) is so called because George IV. landed there on a visit to Ireland. An obelisk commemorates the royal land- ing. The refuge harbor embraces an area of 250 acres. Before the present admirable system of “Irish Lights” Was completed, many serious accidents to shipping oc- curred near Kingstown. We give a few fares from various points in Ireland to the starting-points in England via Kingstown, as tourists' plans vary widely. Fare from Queenstown direct to Liverpool, Birkenhead, or Chester, 48s., 35s. 6d; from Queenstown to London direct, 69s. 6d., 52s; from Dublin to London direct, 60s., 45s; from Dublin to Liverpool, Chester, or Birkenhead, 30s, 22s. 6d.; from Dublin to Manchester, 33s. 6d., 25s. The fares to all these places via the North Wall route to Holyhead from Dublin are considerably lower, — from Queenstown to Chester, via North Wall, 38s, 22 MAYNOOTH. — A UBURN. 28s.; from Dublin to Chester or Liverpool, via North Wall, 20s., 15s.1 If the weather is fine, some interesting views on the Irish and Welsh coasts may be had during the crossing to Holyhead. The mail packets, Ulster, Munster, Leinster, and Connaught, are remarkably strong, swift, and spacious. From Dublin to Galway. This route takes one from the E. to the “wild west coast,” in 53 hrs. (fares, 23s. 8d., 19s. 8d., 11s. 10d.); distance, 126; M. Glasnevin, where Addison, Swift, Tickell, Sheridan, and other celebrities resided; and Maynooth, where there is a castle erected in 1426 by the Earl of Kildare, and the Royal College of St. Pat- rick,- are interesting. At Mullingar are the remains of an Augustine priory. Athlone is an important mili- tary station. Not far from here the Shannon is crossed , by a magnificent bridge. Just beyond Woodlawn, the Connemara Mts. become visible to the r. Athenry is an ancient town, with ruined castellated gates, walls, and religious establishments. At Oranmore a view of Galway Bay and the Islands of Arran may be obtained. From Athlone a car may be taken to Auburn, 8 M. (fare, 6d. per M.). Auburn is “The Deserted Village * of Goldsmith, and its real name is Lishoy; but since the famous Oliver gave it the name of Auburn, it has always retained it. The most interesting relic in the village is 1 The summer tourist in Ireland will find it to his advan- tage to purchase the monthly time-tables (price, 2d.) of the London and Northwestern, and Midland Rlys. These ex- cellent books contain a great variety of information about circular tours in Ireland, in connection with the above-men- tioned lines. t IRELAND. # 23 the ruined parsonage, where the Rev. Charles Goldsmith, the original of Dr. Primrose in the “Vicar of Wake- field,” struggled for the maintenance of his large family. Galway (Railway Hotel, at the station; Royal) is a quaint old town, rather Spanish in appearance, with wide gateways, broad stairs, and many other evidences of the predominance of Spanish ideas in former times. For a long period during and after the 14th century, ex- tensive trade was carried on between Spain and Galway, and Irish merchants made frequent and protracted visits to Spain. Some of the residences of the mer- chant princes of old days are now tenement houses, occu- pied by the very poorest and lowest class. Queen's College is a handsome Gothic structure, built of gray limestone. Galway Bay is the finest in Ireland; and the distance to St. Johns, Newfoundland, is 1,636 M. The Western Highlands of Connemara, and the County Clare, including the region, rendered famous by the troubles of landlords and tenants in the last few years, abound in fine scenery. The road from Galway to Clifden and Westport, 88 M. (car fares about 14.s. 6d.), passes through the most at- tractive part of the region. Westport (Railway Hotel; Connemara) is a pretty town; and the domain of the Marquis of Sligo should be visited. See Clare Island, the ancient residence of Grace O'Malley. Dublin to Belfast, Portrush, The Giant's Causeway, etc. In leaving Dublin for this excursion, the traveller must consider whether he intends to return to Dublin and cross to England via Kingstown and Holyhead, or to cross from Belfast to Glasgow or Liverpool or Fleetwood. If he means to come back to Dublin, let him 24 GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. proceed thence directly to Portrush, which is the nearest station to The Giant's Causeway, Dunluce Castle, etc. The fare to Portrush (180 M.) is 32s., 23s. 8d., 14s. 9d. The route is by Malahide ; The Skerries, where St. Patrick is said to have taken shelter when he was pursued by the Druids; Balbriggan, famous for its stocking factories; Drogheda ; Dundalk, where Edward Bruce was crowned King of Ireland; Porta- down Junction ; Lurgan, a flourishing town engaged in linen manufactories; Belfast : Antrim, not far from . Lough Neagh ; and Coleraine, long noted for the fine- ness of its limens. - Portrush (Antrim Arms ; Coleman’s) has an obelisk to the memory of Dr. Adam Clarke, the well-known com- mentator. Take jaunting-car here (make special terms for round trip) for the Causeway, passing on the way Dunluce Castle, unquestionably one of the most picturesque ruins in Europe. It is 3 M. from Portrush, on an insulated rock about 100 ft. above the sea. The surface of the rock is entirely covered by the ruins of what must have been an impregnable stronghold. A single wall, not more than 18 inches broad, connects the castle with the mainland. Sea view very fine here. Fee, 6d, to 1s., according to size of party. “The White Rocks,” in which there are many fantastic caverns, are not far from Dunluce. The Giant's Causeway. — On arriving engage guide at the Causeway Hotel. The basaltic rocks are abundant along the coast here, but the most interesting formations occur between Portcoon Cave, on the W., and Dunseverick Castle, on the E. If the tourist has time, he should take the circuit first in a boat, and then visit the more important of the curiosities by land See the Causeways, Little, Middle, and Great; the Giant's Gateway; Giant's Organ; Chimney Tops; the IRELAND. 35 Priest and his Flock; the Pleaskin; and the Hen and Chickens. There is a route from the Giant's Causeway to Belfast by the coast road, recommended only to those in no hurry. A whole day must be given to the trip from Portrush to the Causeway and return. Londonderry (Jury’s Hotel; Imperial ; Commer- cial ; City; Worthern) is on the river Foyle. Memorials of the historic “Siege of Derry” are numerous. Ascend the tower of the Cathedral. The old walls of the town are still preserved as a promenade. From London- derry to Portrush it is 2 hrs. by rail (7s. 6d., 5s. 6d., 3s. 8d.); from Portrush to Belfast it is 3–4 hrs. (12s., 8s., 5s. 4d.). Belfast is worth a day's visit. It will remind American visitors of some of our own thriving manu- facturing towns; and the contrast between its smart- ness and vivacity and the dulness and languor of cities in the South of Ireland will be remarked at once. In 50 years the population has increased from 37,000 to 210,000. Two-thirds of the inhabitants are Protes- tants. The town stands on the property of the Mar- quis of Donegal; and it is said that . for long leases ranted by the former proprietor, the income of that no- leman from the town alone would amount to £300,000. Belfast is situated on the Lagan, near the elongated bay known as Belfast Lough. The port is 130 M. from Glasgow, and 156 M. from Liverpool. The Irish name of the town signifies “the mouth of the ford.” The new docks are very fine. On the Queen's Island is an iron shipbuilding yard, employing nearly 2,000 hands. The White Star steamships are built there, Buildings to notice: Presbyterian Ch., Rose- mary-St. ; Royal Academical Institution and Govern- *ent School of Art; Commercial Buildings : Ulster Bank; Belfast Bank; Custom House, High-St., and ſº - BELFAST. Albert Square; the Harbor Office; the Linen Hall, with the Belfast Library; Queen’s College, reached by the Botanic Road; Presbyterian College, University Square; Methodist College. Other things to see : Bo- tanic Gardens, the Cooke statue, Belfast Museum, and The Flaac Mills and Linen ſºarehouses. Visitors are readily admitted to most of the mills. Eveursions from Belfast. — To Cave Hill; to the Giant's Ring ; to Dundalk ; to Bangor, the chief water- ing-place for the inhabitants of Belfast; and to Lord Dufferin’s estate of Clandeboye, 9 M. from the city. The traveller now has his choice of various routes : for leaving Ireland. If he desires to go direct from Belfast to Greenock, or Glasgow, he can do so by the Royal Mail Steamship Line, daily service (Sun, ex. cepted); time, 8 hrs.; fare, 12s. 6d. The routes by sea from Belfast, to Liverpool and to London can only be a recommended to those who have a passion for sea travel. Fare to Liverpool, 12s. 6d.; to London, 25s. A boat leaves Belfast every evening (Sun. excepted), at 7.45, for Barrow-in-Furness; fare, 12s. 6d. Through tickets to London (45s. 6d. or 21s. 3d., by the Mid- . land Rly., 1st and 3d class only), are also sold, by this Barrow route, from various points along which the tº English Lake Region may be visited. º Ireland covers 32,393 square M., a little less than . Maine, South Carolina, and Indiana; and has upwards : of 5,000,000 inhab., # of whom are Roman Catholics. . It was Christianized by St. Patrick, in 432. Perpetual civil wars raged from the 8th to the 12th century. In 1172 England conquered much of Ireland, and discon. tent has been chronic ever since. º NORTH WALES. 27 INORTH WAT,ES. Hoº (Royal Hotel) affords a picturesque introduction to some of the most romantic por- tions of Wales. Those not obliged to proceed at once to Chester, Liverpool, or London, can spend 2–3 days with pleasure and profit at points along the line. Holyhead stands on Holy Island, divided by a small strait from Anglesea, and takes its name from a monas- tery founded in the 6th century. Good view from the hill of the rocky shores, the national harbor of refuge, and the massive breakwater. The promontory of the head is hollowed by the ocean into caverns, which afford shelter to myriads of seafowl. There are important Ro- man remains here. The Ch. was erected in Edward III.'s time. The neighboring island of Anglesea, rich in minerals, was a principal seat of Druidical super- stition. It was conquered with the rest of Wales by Ddward I. The Britannia Tubular Bridge, one of the wonders of Great Britain, is crossed about 21 M. from Holyhead. This, as well as the Menai Bridge, may be visited from Bangor. lºngineers will be interested in the Conway and Britannia bridges, and in noting how the idea that budded in the first structure has fully blossomed in the later and larger one. See Smiles's “Lives of the Engineers ” for a description of the man- ner in which the two Stephensons worked out their thought; how “the great originator of the railway System watched with pleased attention the processes by which the son made quite certain of each step.” The vast tubes were not placed where they now rest Without enormous painstaking and trouble. One of the spans is 472 ft. in length, and, as it is composed 28 BANGOR. entirely of iron, expands and contracts with the changes of temperature. To meet the difficulty, the ends of the tubes rest on movable rollers, and thus maintain the line of rail perfect. The Britannia Bridge” is more than 100 ft. above the water-level. The Menai Suspension Bridge, 1 M. nearer Bangor, is also a stu- endous work. . Its greatest span from point to point is 560 ft., and its elevation above the water-way at the highest tide is 100 ft. It is the longest suspension bridge in England or Wales. It was built in the old coaching days, in the early part of the century. After crossing this bridge, you have left the island of An- glesea and are on the mainland. Bangor (Penrhyn Arms Hotel; George ; Albert; Castle) lies in a valley between two great rocky ridges. On the N. is the pretty bay of Beaumaris. See Cathedral, with monuments of numerous Welsh prin- ces; the palace of the Bishop of Bangor, and charitable institutions; and walk to the Menai Bridge. Mt. scenery fine. The cathedral was built in the 6th century, destroyed by the Anglo-Normans in the 11th, rebuilt in the 12th, and burned by Owen Gwyndwr in 1402. The present structure dates from the 16th cen- tury, and is a massive construction, with a tower of moderate height. Bangor is in the oldest diocese in Wales. . In the vicinity is a slate quarry of immense extent, in which as many as 2,000 persons are at times 1 The Tubular Bridge cost £620,000. It is 1,500 ft. in length, and raised sufficiently high to allow ships with high- est masts to pass beneath it. It consists of a wrought-iron tube made of plates rivated together, isis fi.iº isoo men were employed for 44 years on its construction. The tubes were first riveted together, floated out on pontoons, and then raised into their places by hydraulic pressure. The whole weight is over 11,000 tons. NORTH WALES. 29 employed. See the castle of Lord Penrhyn, in whose family the quarries are owned. 70,000 tons of slate are yearly shipped from Port Penrhyn. The rly, now skirts the shore of Beaumaris Bay; passes through Penmaenmawr, near which is a mt. of the same name, 1,540 ft. high; through the Penbach Tunnel; and, just before reaching Conway, traverses the Conway Tubular Bridge, erected by Stephenson in 1848. It consists of two hollow rectangular tubes of wrought-iron plates, for the up and down trains, each measuring 400 ft. and weighing 1,300 tons. Conway (Castle Hotel) has a castle which entitles it to the American pilgrim’s earnest attention. This superb ruin is situated on a rock, guarded on two sides by the Conway River. It was built by Edward I. During the civil wars this oblong fortress, flanked by eight embattled towers, was garrisoned for the King. But the Parliamentary army took it. Charles II. gave it to the Earl of Conway, who stripped off the precious stores of timber, iron, and lead. It now belongs to the Marquis of Hertford. The massive walls of the town, with their towers and gateways, are still in good condi- tion. Among the odd old houses in Conway is one erected in 1585 by Robert Wynne, which is worth a visit. In the Ch. there are several monuments to members of the Wynne family. See. The College in Castle-St., now inhabited by poor families. The Plas Jawr is readily shown to tourists. On the S.E. side of Great Orme's Head, 4 M. by rail from Conway, is the fashionable watering-place of Llandudno. Tourists who have a few days to spend in North ales can make a variety of interesfing excursions from Bangor or Conway. From the former point they may visit Caernarvon (Hotel: Urbridge Arms), an *ncient town, situated partly on the Menai Strait and 30 CAERNARVON. — SNOWDON. partly on the estuary of the Seiont. Caernarvon's chief object of interest is the castle erected by Edward I, There Edward II., the first Saxon Prince of Wales was born. The external walls of the castle are nearly 10 ft. thick." Near the Seiont formerly stood a strong fort, long a residence of the British princes. The view from the Eagle Tower is remarkably good. See the Terrace, outside the town walls, also Druidical circles in the neighborhood. It is not quite 9 M. by rail from Bangor to Caernarvon, and in good weather a tramp along the highway between the two towns will be found enjoyable. From Caernarvon the Snowdonian region is easy of access. Roman ruins abound in the vicinity; see site of the Roman station of Segontium. Llanberis, from which point Snowdon (3,571 ft. high) may be 1 Caernarvon Castle, says an historian, is a “'stupendous monument of ancient grandeur.” It occupies the whole W. end of the town. Some years ago it seemed as if fast going to ruin; its ivy-clad walls appeared to be yielding to the ravages of time, yet withal retaining a romantic singularity of their own; and in 1828 the Eagle Tower— the largest of all — was struck by lightning, which cracked the walls sev- eral yards, and displaced large masses of stone. But great pains have since been taken to restore the fabric; and it stands before us to-day a grand and beautiful structure. On two sides it is washed by the sea, on the third it was of yore protected by a ditch, and on the fourth it was shut in by the town. Caernarvon is probably only about ; M. from the site of Segontium, the principal Roman station in North Wales. The castle became the headquarters of the English after the Conquest by Edward, and here he had the treasury for the taxes exacted from his Welsh subjects. The Eagle Tower — so named from the figure of the bird standing on º the summit—occupies one end of the oblong court, and has sº three turrets rising from it... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . NORTH WALES. 31 ascended, is reached by rail from Caernarvon. Llanberis and Want Ffrancon are two of the finest passes in Wales, and the latter is especially beautiful. The road through it winds under frowning precipices; and Lake Ogwen's inky-black water breaks through a chasm in the rock into numerous cascades, some of them 100 ft. high, that find their way into the rich vale extending N. to Bethesda and Bangor. A good trip would be from Bangor to Caernarvon; thence to Llanberis and through the Pass to Capel Curig; thence to Bettws- y-Coed, the “Station in the Wood,” a delicious sylvan retreat, where Coe painted some of his most beautiful pictures. Near by are the Falls of the Conway. Returning to the main line, the tourist will find but two or three other points worthy notice between Con- way and Chester. Abergele (Bee Hotel) is near Cave Hill, where there is a fine natural cavern ; and the mt.-pass in which the Welsh defeated Harold and, later on, massacred the troops of Henry II. Mrs. Hemans lived for many years at Abergele. In 1868 a frightful rly. accident, by which 33 persons were burned to death, occurred near this stat. Rhyl (Parade Hotel ; Belvoir) is a pretty watéring-place. A branch rly. runs thence to the little Welsh cathedral-town of St. Asaph ; and to Denbigh, a venerable hill-town with many very quaint old houses, and a stately ruined castle, on the hill. At Holywell the famous St. Wini- fred's Well is to be seen. Flint Castle, on a rock by the sea, was once the prison of Richard II. 13 M. beyond the train crosses the Dee, leaving Wales. 32 CHESTER, IENGLAND. - CHierº (Grosvenor Hotel; Queen's, at the rly. stat.; Blossom's ; Albion ; Feathers ; White Lion). The curious features of this delightful town may be seen in a single day (or, with the aid of a carriage, in 3–4 hrs.). The traveller who has not already made up his mind should here decide whether he will go directly to London, or N. to the English Lakes, and thence to Scotland. To those who contemplate making an ex- tensive tour on the Continent, and returning to the British Islands only late in September or October, we would recommend a trip from Chester to Liverpool, and thence, after having seen the sights in that city and in Chester and vicinity, direct to the English Lakes and Scotch mts. But many persons will probably like to go to London and the Continent at once, for a season, returning N. in August and resuming our English and Scotch itinerary from Chester or Liverpool. Ancient Chester, on its pretty eminence, is suffi- ciently quaint and filled with ruins to satisfy the most curious of Transatlantic travellers. Some kind of town existed on this site before the Roman invasion, but it was the Romans who made the definite foundation. They chose this place as one of their principal military stations, called it the “City of the Legions,” and made it the castra of the Twentieth Legion. Vast walls still occupy the same ground and carry out the identical plan chosen and arranged by the Roman leaders. Chester was laid waste in the early part of the 7th century by AEthelfrith, King of the Northumbrians; and then the memorials of the Roman sojourn were greatly injured. For nearly three centuries Chester lay in ruins. In ENGLAND. 33 907 Alfred the Great's daughter, Ethelfleda, restored the ruined walls which the Danes had from time to time used as temporary strongholds; and from that day Chester became important in English history. It was the very last city to hold out against William the Conqueror; and a nephew of the great Norman was made Earl of Chester, and built a castle there. Ches- ter was especially prominent in the Civil War as the first city to declare for Charles, and the last to yield to the Parliamentary forces. A Walk around the Old Walls may be begun at East Gate, near the Grosvenor or Blossom's Hotel, Going N. one comes first to the Cathedral (described below). Next beyond it, at the angle of the walls where they turn W. to the North Gate, is the Phaenia: Tower, on which Charles I. stood during the battle of Rowton Moor and gazed on the defeat of his Cheshire army, Sept. 24, 1645. See inscription. Under the walls at this point is the Shropshire Union Canal, cut in the solid rock. Moving on towards the North Gate, the original Roman walls, terminating in a cor- nice 6 ft. below the parapet, may be seen. From this gate there is an extensive view of the Welsh mts. and of Waverton and Christleton chs. Just outside the gate is an ancient Blue Coat Hospital. A little far- ther on, from a square building on the r. side of the Wall, there is a view of the river and the sea, Flint Castle, the Training College, etc. Another tower, Once known as the Goblin’s, but now called Pember- ton's Parlor, comes next. It bears a mutilated inscrip- tion about the “glorious reign of Anne.” The Water Tower, as its name indicates, was once closely ap- Proached by ships; but the river is now a long way from the walls. This part of the fortifications was bombarded by Cromwell in 1645. Within the tower 3 34. CHESTER. is a museum; on its summit, a telescope. See railway viaduct and iron bridge over the Dee, near this point. The City Jail is an imposing structure. From the Water Gate note the Rhoodee race-course, and beyond the river the fine villas of Cruzon Park. Grosvenor Bridge, which spans the stream, has a span of 200 ft. Over the river, in Edgar's Field, is a statue of Pallas. The Castle, next approached, is a noble pile, erected in the last century on the site of the ancient one. “Caesar's Tower” is the only remnant of the old structure. See near the Castle the Combermere Monument and the Shire Hall. Drill in the Castle yard afternoons. Walk on over the Bridge Gate, rebuilt in 1782, to New Gate (1608), and thence to East Gate. Outside the walls, between Bridge and East Gates, is the Ch. , of St. John the Baptist, founded in 689, and rebuilt in 1574. * The Cathedral was begun in the 12th century, and the choir and central tower were finished in the sº early years of the 13th. The lady chapel, refectory, i. and chapter-house are said to have been constructed 1200–1230. Many portions were greatly altered in the period between 1485 and 1537. The ch. is almost entirely built of red sandstone, plentiful in the district. The restorations carried on , for several years past have proved highly successful. The E. portion is an excellent example of Early English style. The choir is beautiful: note the Gothic work at the sides; also the richly carven Gothic screen of stone, which separates the nave from the choir; the bishop's throne, formed by the shrine of St. Werburgh of miraculous mem- ory; and the black and white marble pavement in the choir. The W. front, though unfinished, is the best. The lector's pulpit in the refectory; the colors of the 22d Cheshire regiment, carried at Bunker Hill, in the ENGLAND. 35 chapter-house; and the great W. window of the nave, should be remarked. The stained-glass windows are modern. The cathedral’s interior is not so imposing as its exterior. Tradition says that a Roman temple to Apollo once stood on the site. The foundation of two towers, never completed, was laid in 1508. The Rows, covered avenues or galleries through the fronts of the second stories of the houses in Eastgate, Watergate, Northgate, and Bridge Sts. (the old Roman ways), are one of the most striking features of Chester." Old Houses, remarkable for their curious carvings and for historical associations, are very numerous in Chester. Note the palace of the Earls of Derby, near the Water Gate; and on Lower Bridge-St., leading from Bridge Gate, the house in which Charles I. resided during the siege. A Roman sweating-bath may be seen in one of the houses of the Bridge-St. Row. There are several Roman crypts, a thousand years old, beneath the an- cient buildings. z - Eaton Hall, one of the country-seats of the Duke of Westminster, is 3 M. from Chester. Tickets of ad- mission to the grounds and mansion may be had for * Pennant says: “These Rows appear to me to have been the same with the ancient vestibules, and could have been a form of building preserved from the time that the city was possessed by the Romans. They were the places where de- pendants watched for the coming out of their patrons, and in which they might walk away the tedious minutes of expecta- tion. Plautus, in the third act of his Mostel/aria, describes both their station and use. The shops beneath the Rows Were the cryptae and apothecae, magazines for the various necessaries of the owners of the houses.” Many of the Rows to-day form two terraces, the shops one above the other, the galleries being reached by flights of steps at convenient distances. f : § . . & 36 LIVERPOOL. a small sum at the Grosvenor Hotel and of the news- dealers. The house is an elaborate structure, with a fº number of pinnacles and turrets, and is 460 ft. ong. The walk thither, over Grosvenor Bridge and through the Park, entering by a gateway copied from the Abbey Gate at Canterbury, is very interesting. . The marble floor in the entry alone cost 1,600 guineas. , ; There are a few noticeable paintings at Eaton Hall. 3. Liverpool. From Chester important lines of railway radiate in all directions. The traveller may proceed to Liver- pool, via Runcorn, crossing the celebrated Runcorn Bridge 4 and its viaducts, and arriving at the Lime-St. terminus of the London and Northwestern Railway (fare, 3s. ; time, a little more than half an hour); or he may go from Chester to Birkenhead, and cross from this latter place to Liverpool by ferry (time and fare about the same, but scenery uninteresting); or he may walk through Eastham, Bebington, etc., to Rock Ferry, and there cross to Liverpool. We recommend the walk to Chester from Liverpool for those who have made their first entry into Europe at the great seaport. If Liverpool has somewhat shocked their aesthetic sense, and disappointed their expectations of romance in Europe, Chester will re-establish their enthusiasm. 1 The entire length of this structure is 23 M. The bridge is approached upon the Runcorn Viaduct, carried by 33 arches, l of 23 ft. span, 29 of 40 ft. span, and 3 of 61 ft. span. The viaduct is carried over the river Mersey at a height of 80 ft. by 3 girders of 305 ft. span, each supported upon 4 castellated piers, stretching over a distance of 273 chains. The total cost of the structure was £422,400, of which £41,800 was paid for land. - ENGLAND. 37 Liverpool (Hotels, Adelphi; Northwestern Railway; Washington; Imperial; hºaterloo : Americans will find the Adelphi and Northwestern best suited for them) is the port at which most tourists from the United States first land. It is a city of nearly 560,000 inhab., the second seaport in the United Kingdom, and possesses the finest docks in the world. See the “Chapter for Travellers” for instructions as to Landing at Liverpool. Liverpool is essentially a modern town. In 1561 it was a hamlet; in 1644 Prince Rupert called it “a crow’s nest; ” but in 1871 its population numbered half a mil- lion. Liverpool’s importance dates from the upspring- ing of the cottom manufacture in England. There have been years in which the value of its exports has been twice as great as that of the exports from London. 30,000 seamen constantly throng its quays. For more than a century and a quarter the town has regularly doubled its population, imports and exports, town and dock dues, customs receipts and payments, every 16 years. Its public buildings are as new as those of American cities. There is scarcely one older than the present century." * “Liverpool is not even mentioned in the list of towns in the Doomsday Book of the Norman invaders. It is spoken of for the first time in 1172, when Henry II, made the con- quest of Ireland, and embarked his ships in the Mersey. Towards 1700 its population was hardly 5,000. The block- up of the Dee at Chester profited Liverpool; and its mer- chants began to get rich, above all in the slave trade. As the painter Fuseli said, when he was asked to admire the great streets, ‘the blood of the negroes seems to have fil- tered through these carven stones.’ The city occupies the geographical centre between Great Britain and Ireland. It * the only point of convergence for domestic exchange be- tween the British Islands. This central position is also an 38 LIVERPOOL. The Docks, some parts of which may be seen from the steamers ascending the Mersey, deserve a careful visit. Liverpool lies on the r. bank of the river Mersey ; opposite it is the important town of . Birkenhead; and the “silent highway ” between is thronged with ships from every part of the globe. . The dock system which lines the Mersey begins at the Herculaneum Graving Dock, at the extreme S. end of . the town. From the S. point of this to the N. part of the Carriers’ Dock, the other end of the system, is a distance of 6 M. All the intervening space is filled with docks and quays, two and sometimes three deep. ; The Canning, Salthouse, George's, King's, Queen’s, and Brunswick Docks, and the Queen’s and Prince's Half- Tide Basins, were constructed between 1717 and 1816. In the King's Dock and warehouses are stored and bonded immense quantities of leaf tobacco and cigars. . Railways communicate by tunnels directly with the dock system. The total quay space of the Liverpool º docks a year or two ago was 17 M.; of the basins, 8 M.; ; and the total water area of the docks, 267 acres. The Prince's Landing Stage, at which passengers from and to America disembark and depart, is a noble work. It is said that nearly # of the trade of the port is with the United States. The town possesses tº of the shipping . of Great Britain, ; of the foreign trade, of the gen- sº eral commerce, and more than ; as much trade as the port of London. In 1867 the customs dues amounted . advantage for foreign commerce, which has chosen Liverpool for its depot. Farther than Bristol from the high sea, which º is the road to America, Africa, and the Indies, Liverpool ºf overcomes this inferiority by the advantage which she has in being close to the border of a coal basin, which has become ºf st the principal seat of all the manufactures of the entire world.” (Elisée Reclus.) . - ENGLAND. 39 . 4:3,620,409, and the cotton imported to 2,250,500 ales. St. George's Hall is one of the most conspicuous objects in Liverpool. It is a vast and imposing struc- ture, completed in 1851, and contains the Assize Courts, an immense hall for public meetings, and a concert room. The portico on the S. is very fine. It surmounts a pedestal of noble steps, 150 ft. wide, ter- miliating in a pediment, the tympanum of which is enriched by sculptures representing Britannia offering the olive branch, with the lion at her side and the Mersey flowing at her feet. Mercury is represented as leading to her from the other side Asia, Europe, Africa, and America. In the great hall is one of the largest organs in the world, with 108 stops and 8,000 pipes. See the bronze doors which lead to the Crown Court. Near St. George’s Hall are statues of the Prince Consort and Queen Victoria. Four stone lions, massive and impressive, guard the principal entrance to the area between the hall and Lime-St. Not far away is the Alexandra Theatre. The Wellington Monument, cast from cannon taken at Waterloo, is also near St. George's Hall. A little to the N. is Brown's Free Public Library and Museum, built at the expense of the late Sir William Brown. Near by is the Walker Art Gallery. The Municipal Offices, in Dale-St.; the Town Hall ; the Erchange, which covers two acres, in the commer- |al quarter, are handsome edifices. On the Exchange flags, where the merchants meet, stands a bronze statue of Nelson, by Westmacott. St. John’s Market, a vast structure, is on Great Charlotte-St. The Cus- 'on. House and Post-Office, at the junction of Strand-St. and, Wapping, has beneath it extensive vaults for the storing of goods in bond. See the Sailors' Home, close by. 40 LIVERPOOL. Other Objects of Interest in Liverpool. — The Botanic Gardens, in Edge Lane. The Corn Earchange, on Brunswick-St. St. Nicholas' Ch., the only real an- tiquity in Liverpool. The original chapel was built in the time of William the Conqueror. In old times a statue of St. Nicholas, patron of mariners, stood in the yard. The ch. was restored in 1774. The tower facing the S. side was erected as one of a series of “signal º steeples.” Prince’s and Stanley Parks ; from the latter - a good view of the sea and the Cumberland hills. St. . James’s Cemetery, formerly a stone quarry, and filled . for its present purpose at an expense of £20,000. The Mausoleum of Huskisson is here. Sefton Park, i. urchased at a cost of £450,000, from Earl Sefton. : iverpool has expended vast sums in the past few years on street improvements; but the poor quarter is tº still horribly unhealthy. A walk through it should be . undertaken only in the daylight hours. Estates and is Residences of Noblemen near Liverpool : Knowsley . Hall, owned by the Earl of Derby (see the Stanley portraits there); Croxteth Hall, the Earl of Sefton's seat; Childwall Abbey, a residence of the Marquis of . Salisbury. Excursions may be made from Liverpool to Wew Brighton, down the river by ferry-boat from the George's Landing stage; and to Eastham, a pretty pleasure-resort.” º 1 “The cities crowded together in the neighborhood o Liverpool and Birkenhead are very numerous. In an angle of Cheshire is New Brighton, a water-side pleasure-resort Torteth Park is a suburb situated near the Mersey. On the º N. and the E. are Bootle, Linacre, Walton-on-the-Hill, West Derby, Widnes, Wavertree, Prescot, St. Helens, Ince, and Newton-in-Makerfield. St. Helens has very important tº glass manufactories. The basin of the Ribble contains a very considerable population. Round the mouths of the mines i. ENGLAND. 41 Birkenhead (Adelphi Hotel; Gough; Ivy; Argyle; Liverpool Arms), about 85,000 inhab., is near the mouth of the Mersey, on the S. shore facing Liverpool. Constant communication by steam-ferries. Ship-build- ing is the main industry. . The docks cover 500 acres. Here are the docks of the Messrs. Laird, where the Alabama was built. The Ch., which overlooks the river, is part of the old Priory of Byrkhed, founded in Henry II.'s reign. rise groups of factories. The central city of the basin, Black- burn, is one of those towns black with smoke, where steam- engines are incessantly roaring. Clitheroe-on-the-Ribble is in the midst of a charming country. Between Blackburn and Liverpool the manufacturing towns are close together. Over- Darwen, Chorley, Wigan, Hindley, are but a stone's throw from each other. Not far from Wigan is the deepest coal- mine in Great Britain. On the W. of Wigan is the great market town of Ormeskirk. Preston, “proud Preston,” majestically situated where the Ribble begins to broaden, is the most populous city of the whole basin. It is at the same time a manufacturing place of the first order, especially for cottons. Lancaster is to the N., distant from the centre of population. It is no longer a capital except in name, although it still keeps certain prerogatives as a ducal city. Built on the site of a Roman military station, it is overlooked by a castle where there were many important ruins. Lan- caster, prominent in so many events in the civil wars, is now a peaceful commercial town, with numerous cotton factories. The Fleetwood Railway unites it with Poulton, on Morecambe Bay, a maritime summer-resort. The town which attracts most visitors is Blackpool, situated N. of the Ribble estuary, Oil a hill from whence the waters of the Irish Sea can be Seen.’ 42 GRANGE. — FURNESS ABBEY. The English Lake District. Those persons who desire to visit the English Ilakes and to proceed thence to Scotland, before going, as the English say, “up to London,” will find Liverpool their best point of departure. From Liverpool to Winder- mere the distance is 874 M.; and the fares, 25s. 6d., 18s. 3d., 11s. 6d. This route is through Wigan, Pres- ton, and Lancaster to Orenholme Junction, where a good view of Kendal, the largest town in Westmore- land, is obtained, and from Oxenholme by branch rail- way to Windermere, whence excursions can be made in all directions. But we think the American tourist would find it interesting to enter this beautiful re- gion by another route, as follows: Take ticket from Liverpool to Grange (fares, 21s. 6d., 15s. 6d., 10s.). You pass through Wigan, Preston, and Lancaster, and a little beyond this last place change at Carnforth Junction. The railway thence to Grange carries you across arms of Morecambe Bay, and beside wild stretches of quicksand, where hundreds of lives have tº been lost. Grange (Grange Hotel, a charming house on the slope of a wooded hill) is called the “Torquay of the North.” Its climate is mild, even in winter; and it is a favorite fashionable resort. Castle Head, once a Roman station, is nearby. From Grange an excursion should be made to Furness Abbey, by the railway is passing through Ulverston, Lindal, Dalton, and other points in the rich Furness mining district, and termi. nating at the important town of Barrow. (Return ticket, 1st class, Grange to Furness Abbey, 5s.) Tour- ists will be well repaid for visiting the ruin, and the ex- cursion may be made in an afternoon by those who have left Liverpool for Grange in the morning. “The Royal ENGLAND. 43 Abbey of St. Mary of Furness” was founded in 1127, in Henry I.’s reign, by Stephen, Earl of Moreton and Boulogne. The monks of the Cistercian order grew rapidly rich and powerful. The abbots of Furness were lords in Parliament, and had their little army. They indulged in license; and the result was that the monks of Furness lost their splendid gift, after enjoying it for 410 years. The ruin is now the property of the Duke of Devonshire. Admission to the grounds, which are close to the stat., free. The roofless ch., the lavishly decorated chapter-house, the scriptorium, and the re- fectory contain many interesting memorials. The E. window is preserved in the sanctuary at Bowness; it is a superb specimen of mediaeval glass-painting. Furness Abbey Hotel is near the ruins. Along the rly. lie beds of hematite iron ore, from which about 600,000 tons are annually taken. From Ulverston (Sun Hotel; Light- burne), the capital of Furness, a branch line leads to Lake Side, on Windermere Lake. One can also go directly from Furness Abbey or from Barrow by rail to the head of Coniston Lake. See time-tables of Northwestern and Midland Railways, and local guide-books, for a host of details concerning round trips, circular tickets, etc. Holker Hall, a residence of the Duke of Dev- onshire, may be visited on the way back from Fur- ness Abbey to Grange. Stop at Cark, and walk to the Hall, 1 M. The Hall and park are on the Leven, flowing out of Lake Windermere. Many charming Walks in this vicinity, from the weird Leven Sands u to and through sweet and romantic Holker Willage, wit its cottages nestling among rose-trees and fuchsias, and on to Cartmel and its ancient Priory. Holker Hall contains a fine collection of paintings, and the park is Well stocked with deer. Lºrens Hall may be visited from Grange. It is on the E. side of the river Kent. 44 WINDERMERE. The gardens on the estate were laid out by Beaumont, James II.'s famous gardener. Returning to Grange, sleep there, and take the coach next morning for Newby Bridge and Lake Side (foot of Lake Windermere) at about 10 o’clock. This 8 M. drive is delightful. At Newby Bridge the time-honored and picturesque Swan Imn should be noticed. At Lake Side, where the train from Ulverston comes in (Lake Side Hotel, very good), one may take the steam-yacht which plies regularly on the waters of Windermere, stopping at the Ferry (5 M.), Bowness (6 M.), or Waterhead (11 M.). This last is the stat. for Ambleside, # M. from the lake; and at Ambleside one is in the very heart of the Lake region. (Fare from Grange to Ambleside by this route, about 5s.) A party of four persons would find it worth their while to hire a carriage at Grange, and drive first to Newby Bridge; thence to Lake side ; then across from Winder- mere Lake, past Esthwaite JWater (around which Words- worth used to walk when he was attending school near by), through the old town of Hawkshead, down to the Waterhead Quay on Coniston Lake; and from that point over the Oxenfell, past Skelwith Bridge and Elter Water and Brathay, into Ambleside. This can be done easily in 5–6 hrs., including stops, and in fine weather is a bewitching journey. The descent to Coniston and the approach to Ambleside afford two of the loveliest views in England. Make special bargain for carriage; driver receives fee of 2s.—3s. 6d. We advise tourists to hasten to Ambleside, and make their excursions from there. The Long Sleddale, Kentmere, Troutbeck, and Rusland Wales may be best visited from Windermere Village or Bowness; but everything else of importance is most accessible from Ambleside.” 1 The traveller will find pocket editions of Wordsworth. and Southey excellent companions; also, Prof. Wm. Knight's ENGLAND, 45 Windermere Lake is 10% M. long and 1 M. broad in its widest part. It is 134 ft. above the sea-level, and varies in depth from 90 to 240 ft. Opposite Bow- mess there is a group of about a dozen small islands. The surrounding hills rarely rise above 1,000 ft. At a few yards from the head of the lake, the rivers Brathay and Rothay unite their waters. . There are no such rich effects of color, no such bold and magnifi- cent mountain masses, as on the shores of the Swiss lakes; but there is a bewildering richness of Northern vegetation, and a constant succession of beautiful land- Scapes such as few other countries can boast. (Boat, to row yourself, ls. an hr.; with boatman, 1s. 6d. per lir. ; for the day, with boatman, 10s.) Bowness (Crown Hotel; Royal; Old England) is on a pleasant bay, and commands good views of the upper reaches of the lake. Ancient parish ch. here. Coaches every morning in summer for Coniston; and for Patter- dale, by the Troutbeck Vale and Kirkstone Pass. Windermere (Riggs's Hotel; Queen ; Elleray) is 1; M. from the lake by road, ; M. by footpath, and 5 M. from Ambleside. Coach each morning in summer to Patterdale. A short distance from the stat. formerly stood Elleray, the residence of Prof. Wilson (Kit North); it has been replaced by a new house. Fine view from Orrest Head, 783 ft. high (; hr.’s walk). Ambleside (Salutation Hotel; Queen’s; White Lion; Waterhead, at the lake pier) is nearly 1 M. from the head of Windermere Lake, in a lovely situation at the foot of Wansfell Pike. Omnibuses often to Grasmere and to head of lake; and coaches for Keswick, and "The English Lake District, as interpreted in the Poems of Wordsworth,” price 5s. Baddeley's Guide is capital. Jenkin- son’s “Practical Guide,” price 7s., is a good book. There are also a dozen small pamphlet guides for 6d. or ls, each. 46 AMBLESIDE. — CONISTON LAKE. thrice daily for Windermere. Fare from Liverpool to Ambleside, 28s. 6d., 20s. 6d., 13s.6d.; from London to Ambleside, in 7 hrs., 76s. 4d., 58s. 10d., 39s. 6d. At Ambleside you are on classic ground. Mr. Tay- lor, landlord at the Salutation Inn (which venerable hostelry is now in its twentieth decade, although the building is new), says that Americans always ask him how far it is to Wordsworth’s grave, where Harriet Martineau lived, etc., but that English tourists never do. Ambleside is picturesque, although the inhabitants build ugly residences out of the slate which abounds in the neighborhood. The park-like vale of Rothay, with its rich woods and pretty vistas of green fields, seems made for the home of contemplation. The new Ch. of St. Mary’s, designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, is in a charm- ing location. We give a number of short excursions within walking distance, out of which the tourist must choose those which strike his fancy. To the Stock Ghyll Force (waterfall, 70 ft. high), within the Salutation Hotel grounds. The distances mentioned below are computed from the “Salutation.” To Rydal Mount, Ch., and Falls, 2 M.: to Skelgill and Wansfell Pike, 3 M.; to the top of Kirkstone Pass, 4 M.; to Grasmere, under Loughrigg Fell, and back by Nab Scar, 9 M.; to Clappersgate, 1 M.; Brathay Ch., 2 M.; Low Wood Hotel, 2 M.; Troutbeck Ch., 4 M.; Langdale Ch., 5 M. Tickets for a circular tour by Coniston, Furness Abbey, and Windermere Lake (fares, 8s. 9d., 6s. 6d.), and for the whole tour, can be obtained at Ambleside or at Bowness. They are available for 7 days. Coniston Lake, 5% M. long and # M. broad, is 164 ft. deep in some places. Its surroundings are fine, and the view down upon it from some neighboring mt. is charming. A steam yacht plies up and down the lake 3 times daily (fares, 1s. 6d. and ls.). Excur- ENGLAND. 47 sions up Comiston Old Man, Wetherlam, and Black Combe Mts. are for the leisurely tourist. Coach Services from Ambleside : For the Langdale Drive, 6s. ; to Keswick, several times daily, 6s. 6d. single, and 9s. 6d. return tickets. The Langdale Drive is from Ambleside to Rothay Bridge, # M.; Skelwith Bridge, 3; Colwith Force, 4%; Smithy Houses, 5%; Dungeon Gill, 9; ; Chapel Stile, 12% ; High Close, 14; Grasmere Ch., 15; ; Ambleside, 19%. Much of the scenery visited on this drive is described in Words- worth’s “IExcursion.” 1 1 Private Carriage Eccursions from Ambleside, recom- mended to tourists who have time at their disposition. — To Patterdale by Kirkstone Pass, Brothers’ Water, and back (an exceedingly interesting drive, abounding in wild and romantic scenery), 24 M.; or back by Troutbeck, 25 M. To Keswick by Rydal Water, Grasmere, Dunmail Raise, Thirlmere, Castlerigg, and back, 34 M.; or back by St. John's Wale, 37 M. To Coniston by Tarn Hows, back by Hawkshead, Blelham Tarn, Wray Castle, to Ambleside, 18 M. To Coniston by Tarn Hows, back by Hawkshead, Esthwaite Water, the Ferry, Wray Castle to Ambleside, 23 M.; or across the Ferry and back to Ambleside by Bowness, 25 M. Around Windermere Lake by Brathay, Wray Castle, the Ferry, Graythwaite, to Newby Bridge, and back by the E. side of Windermere, Bowness to Ambleside, 30 M. Around Langdale by Clappersgate, Brathay, Skelwith, Blea Tarn, Little Langdale, Wall End, back by Great Langdale, Red Bank, Grasmere, Rydal, to Ambleside, 21 M.; or direct by Elterwater, 18 M. By Clappersgate to Skelwith, Lough- Tigg Tarn, High Close, Red Bank, Grasmere, Rydal, to Am- bleside, 12 M. To the top of Kirkstone, back by vale of Troutbeck and Low Wood, il M.; or back by Cook's House, 5. M. To Bowness, back by Windermere, Cook's House, | Wale of Troutbeck, and Low Wood, 17 M. To Hawkshead, back by Wray Castle, Blelham Tarn, 12 M. 48 ULLSWATER LARE. From Ambleside to Ullswater Lake. Ullswater Lake is usually visited either from Amble- side or from Keswick. During the tourist season a coach leaves Ambleside for Patterdale at 10 A.M. daily. The route through Ambleside to the Kirkstone Pass passes in front of the Salutation Hotel, and branches to the r., passing the old ch. Here and there it is very steep, winding along the side of the Fell. Below, on the r., is the Stock Ghyll, on the opposite side of which is Wansfell Pike. The inn at the top of the Pass, called the Travellers’ Rest, is said to be the highest in- habited house in England. It stands 1,475 ft. above the sea-level. , Travellers, independent of the coach, would better drive round by Troutbeck Bridge and up the bold hills, commanding a view of the Fall of Trout- beck, to the top of the Pass. Descending from the Travellers’ Rest, you pass on the 1. the Kirk Stone, which looks, perhaps, a trifle like a ch. from a point : half-way down the mt., towards Brothers’ Water, a little lake, named from the drowning of two brothers in . its depths. While at the top of the Pass, you can see the flames from the blast furnaces in the Barrow dis. A trict, and catch a glimpse of the Irish Sea. The Dove tº Crags, beyond the Brothers' Wafer Hotel, are extremely sº picturesque. º Patterdale (Patterdale Hotel; White Lion) stands tº in a pretty valley, a few hundred yards from the head of the lake. 1 M. farther on is the Ullswater Hotel, H. first-class. The scenery all about this point is rich and varied. The view from the windows of the Ullswater º Hotel over the lake, with its woody shores and its islands, is very beautiful. (Fares for tour on Ullswater Lake, by steam yacht, 3s. and 2s.) The boats call at . ENGLAND. 49 Howtown, and next land passengers close to Pooley | Bridge, whence coaches run to meet the trains at Pen- rith. From Penrith, rail to Keswick. | Ullswater Lake is 7; M. long, # M. broad, and 210 ft. deep. The upper reach of the lake is the most beautiful. Many people prefer this to Lake Derwent- water. See Lyulph's Tower and Ira Force, a waterfall 80 ft. high. This cascade is the scene of the incident on which Wordsworth’s poem of the Somnambulist is founded. The journey from Ambleside to Ullswater usually takes 24 hrs. Wordsworth intended to make his home at a cottage under Place Fell, near Patter- dale; but the owner asked more than the prudent man thought it was worth, and he remained at Grasmere. The places in the Ullswater district associated with the poet are best approached by the road from Grasmere to Helvellyn, leading past Girsdale Tarn. From Ambleside to Keswick via Rydal Mount and Grasmere. Those persons who have not taken the Langdale Drive, or who have not been at Grasmere from Amble- side, may visit the old homes and the grave of Words- Worth on their way to Keswick. The coaches stop at the places of interest. The road out of Ambleside leads, past the Knoll, and the ivy-covered residence in which Harriet Martineau lived for a long time. This house is on the 1. Thence the route lies up the Rothay valley to Rydal. Note Fow How, Dr. Arnold’s old residence to the 1., beyond the Rothay. A steep road on the r. leads out of Rydal to Rydal Mount, where Wordsworth Spent 37 years of his life, and where he died in 1850. As many of the memorials of the poet in his home as possible have been preserved unaltered; but the 4 50 GRASMERE. old picturesque frontage with its 12 windows, and the ash-tree, near which hung the “osier cage” of the doves, are gone. The present owner of the house declines to show it. The location is extremely beauti- ful. Rydal Falls are at the back of Rydal Hall. Guide at cottage below the ch. Returning to the main road, the traveller passes through the gorge between Nab Scar on the r. and Loughrigg Fell on the l. ; sees on the r. Nab Cottage, in which Hartley Coleridge lived for a long time, and where he died; and reaches Rydal hºater, one of the most diminutive of the lakes. From this point it is but a short distance to the delightfully situated Grasmere Lake. It is 1 M. long and ; M. broad. An island of 4 acres’ area lies in its centre. On the border of this lake is the Prince of Wales Hotel, a good house. Grasmere (Rothay Hotel; Swan; Red Lion) lies mainly at the N. end of the lake, although many of the newer residences border on the highway. Knight says: “The cottage at the town end of Grasmere, to which Wordsworth came with his sº sister in the last days of the last century, is, even more is than Rydal Mount, identified with his poetic prime, It had once been a public house, bearing the sign of . the Dove and Olive Bough, from which circumstance is it was for a long time, and is still, occasionally named Þ … “Dove Cottage.’ It is a small, two-storied house.” (See De Quincey’s description, in “Recollections of the Lakes,” pp. 131, 137.)" Grasmere Ch. is the one º 1 The localities most deeply identified with Wordsworth are: Grasmere, where he lived so long, and is buried; Þ Lower Easedale, where he spent so many days with his sister, by the side of the brook, and on the terraces at Lancrigg, where The Prelude was written; Rydal Mount, where he lived the latter half of his life, and found one of the most ENGLAND. 51 ... --------- which Wordsworth drew in “The Excursion,” and in its cemetery he lies buried. The interior is as the poet described it: there are the “naked rafters in- tricately crossed,” the oaken benches, the “heraldic shield” in the “altar window,” etc. After a visit to the ch. you can find some very lovely rambles in the vicinity. The road to Keswick climbs Dunmail Raise Pass, with Steel Fell on the 1. and Seat Sandal on the r., and crosses the boundary between Cumberland and Westmoreland. Descending on the other side, Thirl- mere Lake appears, with Mt. Helvellyn on the r. and part of Skiddaw in the distance. The coach stops at the inn at Wythburn. The ch. at Wythburn was once celebrated as the smallest in Fº From hence the ascent of Mt. Helvellyn is easiest. Height, 3,118 ft.; distance to top from Wythburn, 3. M.; time required, 1% hrs. Thirlmere Lake is 2; M. long, and very narrow. From the W. shore many lovely views may be obtained. From an elevation in the road just beyond this point, Blencathara may be seen. The rich Vale of St. John also opens its charm- ing vistas on the r.; and not far from the King's Head Inn, at Thirlspot, a glimpse of Castle Rock, the fairy castle of Sir Walter Scott’s “Bridal of Triermain,” is perfect retreats in England; and the old (upper) path he, tween Rydal and Grasmere, under Nab Scar, his favorite walk during his later years, where he composed hundreds of verses. There is scarcely a rock or mountain-summit, a. stream or tarn, or even a well, a grove, or a forest-side, in all that neighborhood, which is not imperishably associated with that poet, who at once interpreted them as they had never been interpreted before, and added “The gleam, The light that never was on sea or land, The consecration, and the poet’s dream.” 52 KESWICK. — DERWENTWATER LAKE. obtained. An uninteresting stretch of country comes next; after which the traveller is gratified with one of the most exquisite panoramas in the lake Region, the Derwent Valley, with pretty Keswick, and portions of Bassenthwaite and Derwentwater Lakes. Reswick (Hotels, Keswick, at the rly. stat.; Royal Oak ; Queen's King's Arms) is surrounded by a noble company of mts., with Skiddaw, the chief, 3,058 ft., towering above them. It is a handsome town of 2,700 inhab., and one or two days may be spent in the neigh- borhood. l M. from Keswick, at the foot of Lake Derwentwater, in Portinscale, are the Derwent water and Tower Hotels. 3 M. from Keswick is the Lodore Hotel, and behind it the Lodore Fall, which Southey celebrated in verse. The Borrow and Lodore Water. . falls, the Bowder Stone, Borrowdale Valley, Honister E Pass, Buttermere and Crummock Lakes, Scale Force, i. and the Newlands Valley may be seen on the excursion º called The Buttermere Drive. Excursionists are con- ; veyed in open wagonettes (fares 5s., and ls. for driver) º through this pleasant series of sylvan and lake scenery. . Borrowdale is considered one of the finest valleys in Great Britain. The Wastwater Excursion from Kes- wick is interesting, but fatiguing. Derwentwater Lake lies 238 ft. above the sea- lº level; is 80 ft. deep in the centre, 3 M. long, and 1; M. º. wide. From the Friar's Crag, on this lake, there is a B. magnificent outlook. There are several islands, one of . which, St. Herbert, was occupied by a hermit monk in the 7th century. On Rampsholme Island, the Earls of Derwentwater once had a mansion; and from it Lady tº Derwentwater escaped, taking with her the family jewels, to procure the release of the Earl, who was imprisoned in the Tower of London for taking part ºf in the rebellion of 1715. (Charge for boat with boat- ENGLAND. 53 man on the lake, 2s. for the first hour, 1s. 6d. for every succeeding hour.) For those pressed for time, a drive round Derwentwater Lake will give a view of the prin- cipal points of scenery. Bassenthwaite Lake begins about 3 M. N. of the foot of Derwentwater. It is 4 M. long and about # M. wide. The river Derwent, which carries the waters from the Derwent and Kes- wick Lakes, enters it at its head, and leaves it at its foot, flowing past Cockermouth and into the sea. Bassenthwaite has three promontories on its E. side, which is overshadowed by Skiddaw. It is not often visited by tourists, because it lies on the N. outskirt of the Lake District; but it is well worth seeing. Greta Hall, where the poet Southey lived from 1803 until his death in 1843, is a short distance from Keswick. Walk down the main street to the bridge crossing the river Greta, whence a good view may be had of the Hall. It stands on the r., surrounded by trees. From this point to Crosthwaite Ch. is a pleasant walk, and in the ch.-yard is Southey’s grave. The edifice contains a monument to the laureate, consisting of a full-length figure. The poetical inscription was written by Wordsworth. In the chancel is a monu- ment to Sir John Radcliffe, Knight, an ancestor of the Earls of Derwentwater. From the tower, good view. A footpath through the meadow called Houray was one of Southey's favorite walks. From this point fine view of the magnificent group of mts. : on the N., the huge mass of Skiddaw; on the E., Wallow Crag; and to the S., the Borrowdale mts. The lead-pencil mathu- factories near Keswick merit a visit; so does an in- genious model of the Lake District in a museum in the town. From Castle Head, ; M. outside Keswick, most of Bassenthwaite Lake, a portion of Derwentwater, the whole of the intervening valley, and Mt. Skiddaw may be 54 KESWICK. — PENRITH. seen. St. John and Crosthwaite Chs. may also be seen from this point. Unless the weather is fine, it is use- less to hope for any satisfactory view of the mts. Even in midsummer the front of Skiddaw is overhung with mists for a large part of the time. About 1; M. from Keswick, in a field adjoining the old Penrith road, are the Druids’ Stones, formed of 38 stones, the largest of which is upwards of 7 ft. high. Near by are the tow- ering heights of Helvellyn, Blencathara, and Skiddaw, and, in the distance, to the W., an impressive range. Ascent of Skiddaw from Keswick. — The distance to the top is about 5; M.; time, there and back, 4–6 hrs. ; charge for pony, 6s. ; guide, 6s. A guide is usually necessary from Skiddaw to the summit of Blencathara; distance, about 6 M.; ground in places very wet. The tourist can now go on to Scotland (which course we recommend), via Penrith and Carlisle; or can re- turn to Liverpool (fares from Keswick, 39s. 2d., 27s. 2d., 18s.), and thence go down to London by the North Western Rly., arriving at Euston stat. (fares, by all the lines, 29s, 21s. 9d., 16s. 9d.; distance, 2013. M.); the Midland, arriving at St. Pancras; the Great Northern, arriving at King's Cross; or the Great Western, arriv- ing at Paddington stat. Pullman Car Service. — On the Midland Railway, by day, on four trains; fares, 3s.6d: by night, sleeping-cars; fares, 5s. From Keswick to Carlisle and Scotland. From Keswick to Penrith, 18 M. (fares, 4s. 4d., 1s. 10d.). Penrith (Crown Hotel; George) is charm- ingly situated. Excursions may be made to Brougham Castle and Hall, Arthur's Round Table, Lowther Castle, and the famous Eden Hall, which contains the curious i ENGLAND. 55 old drinking-glass called the “Luck of Eden Hall.” See ruins of Penrith Castle, a favorite residence of Richard III. In the cemetery of the parish ch. is the Giant's Grape, an ancient mysterious mound. Carlisle (County Hôtel ; Red Lion ; Bush ; Crown and Mitre), 18 M. from Penrith and 8 M. from the Scottish border, is the capital of Cumberland. It dates back to the Roman days, and was close to Hadrian’s wall. In the early wars between England and Scotland it was of great importance. The Castle was built by William Rufus. Within it Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned in 1568. The Cathedral does not stand in the front rank; but its E. window is commonly said to be the largest and finest in the Kingdom. The ch. was originally part of a Norman priory, built of red free- stone. It contains a monument to Dr. Paley, Arch- deacon of Carlisle. Note the old glass of the time of Richard II., in the E. window, and the exquisite details of the flamboyant Gothic work. The walls and windows of the choir are Early English; the upper part of the choir, with the E. end and the roof, Late Decorated. See the old abbey gate-house; and the refectory, now used as the chapter-house; also quaint houses in the market-place; and the Moot Hall. Beyond Carlisle the rly, enters the Debatable Ground, where for centuries the borderers waged war on each other. A little farther on is Ecclefechan (Scotland), where Thomas Carlyle was born and is buried. The rly. crosses the Esk, descending from Liddesdale : — “March, march, Eskdale and Liddesdale, All the blue bonnets are over the border.” 56 THE LAND OF BURNS. S C OT T. A. N. D. Sº after crossing the Sark River, which is the boundary between England and Scotland, the route passes Gretna Junction, near which is Gretna Green, formerly the resort of runaway couples anxious to be married. These marriages, rendered possible by the diſ. ference between the English and Scotch law, were first celebrated, in 1760, by a tobacconist named Paisley. In 1856 they were suppressed by act of Parliament. Annan Junction was the scene of the spirited escape of King Edward Balliol, in 1332, from the cavalry of Archibald Douglass. It was the birthplace of Edward Irving, in 1792. The Land of Burns can be visited from Glasgow; but it will be more satis- factory to go from Carlisle to Dumfries, pass the night, and then proceed to Ayr. The excursion may be made in a day. Dumfries (Queensberry Hotel; King's Arms) is 32; M. from Carlisle (fares, 5s. 6d., 4s. 1d., 2s. 9d.). Here Burns lived for several years, and here he died, at the house now known as Burns's. He also lived for 18 months after he became an exciseman, at the foot of Bank-St. His Mausoleum is in St. Michael’s Ch.- yard. In the vault beneath this structure lie Burns and his wife. The Greyfriars Ch. deserves a visit. Most readers of Scott will remember the story of Grey- friars Monastery and of “ Kirkpatrick’s bloody work.” Dumfries is the capital of Nithsdale, and its people call it “The Queen of the South.” From a border hamlet SCOTLAND. 57 of the 8th century, with a Franciscan convent and a castle, it has grown into a prosperous port and factory town. Excursions from Dumfries: — To Linclu- den Abbey, 1; M., beautiful ruins of a 12th-century Benedictine nunnery, and a favorite resort of Burns. Amid this sylvan łº, he composed his “Vision of Libertie.” — To New or Sweetheart Abbey, a 'lovely Gothic ruin, 7 M. S. The Lady Devorgilla, who built the abbey (for Cistercians), in 1284, em- balmed the heart (whence the name) of her husband, John Balliol, and had it built in over the high altar. Devorgilla also erected in Dumfries the monastery for Franciscan friars, before whose altar Robert the Bruce slew the Red Comyn; and the old bridge across the Nith. — To Terreagles (3 M.) and Iron/ray (5 M.), in whose ch.-yard is a handsome monument erected by Scott to the memory of Helen Walker (Jeannic Deans). Irongray is the scene of “The Recreations of a Country Parson.” — To Ellisland farm, where Burns wrote “Tam O’Shanter ’’ and the beautiful ode, “To Mary in Heaven.” 13 M. from Dumfries is the extraordi- nary architectural pile of * Drumlanrig Castle, built by William, first Tuke of Queensberry, who wasted princely sums on it. Torthorneald Castle is a massive ruin, 4 M. from Dumfries. Carlaverock Castle (9 M.) is a grand old fortress on the Solway Frith, de- scribed in “Guy Mannering.” Lochmaben, Ruthwell, and venerable Kirkcudbright (near Dundrennan Abbey and St. Mary’s Isle) may also be visited. Tourists who wish to view the extreme S. coast of Scotland should go to Stranraer from Dumfries (69 M.); and from Stranraer by rail to Ayr and Glasgow. Those who Would make only a short stop at Dumfries should buy a ticket from Carlisle to Mauchline (81; M.; fares, 13s. 8d., 10s. 3d., 6s. 9%d.). At Mauchline (London 58 AYR. — ALLOWAY. Hotel; Black Bull) everything speaks of Burns; his farm of Mossgiel is lº M. N.; there he was married to Jean Armour; there his plough turned up the mouse's nest. In Mauchline is “Poosie Nansie's ’’ cottage, celebrated for the meeting of the “Jolly Beggars.” If you have time, walk through the woods and fields from Mauchline to Montgomerie. There stands the pretty mansion where once “Highland Mary” lived as an humble dairy-maid. From Mauchline a branch line, 11 M. long, leads to Ayr (King's Arms : Queen's), to which thousands of pilgrims go to pay homage to Burns. It is on the sea-coast, at the mouth of the river Ayr. See the “Twa Brigs” of Burns's poem. The Auld Brig (now only a footpath) dates from the reign of Alexander III., in the 13th century; the new bridge, from 1788. A Gothic tower, 133 ft. high, containing a statue of Wallace, stands on the site of a tower in which the hero is said to have been confined. Crom- well built the fort of Ayr in 1652. But a few frag- ments remain. Take a carriage to Burns's Cottage, the Monument, and Alloway Kirk (1% hrs. ; fare, about 4s. for a party). , Walk down through the long and exquisitely shaded avenue to the cottage. In this rude home the poet was born, Jan. 25, 1759. One room has been transformed into a kind of museum, and there some of the poet's original MSS. may be seen. Not far beyond is Alloway Kirk, roofless and desolate. The walls are in a fair state of preservation, and the bell remains; but the woodwork has been all used up for memorials. New Alloway Ch. is on the other side of the road. There is little to see in the “auld haunted kirk,” so go on to the bridge over the “Bonny Doon,” built since Burns's time; up stream you will see the “Auld Brig.” immortalized in “Tam O’Shan- ter.” An excursion along the beautiful Doon in the SCOTLAND. 59 summer-time is most delightful. The Burns Monu- ment stands near the new bridge. See, on the ground- floor, memorials of the poet, and the Bible which he gave to “Highland Mary.” Good view' from upper part of monument. Note the statues of Tam O'Shan- ter and Souter Johnnie, in a grotto on S. N. T. of Ayr lies a country in which Burns laid the scene of many poems. It is accessible only by rural teams or on foot. Mt. Oliphant, where Burns lived when a child, and Tarbolton, where he passed his early manhood, and where he wrote “John Barleycorn,” “Now, whistling winds,” etc., are but a few miles from Alloway. A rly. runs S. from Ayr to Maybole (9 M.), the old capital of Carrick, and the scene of Scott's “Ayr- shire Tragedy,” near which are the rich ruins of Cross- paguel Abbey (founded about 1240) and Dumure Castle ; also the splendid Culzean Castle, where the Earls of Cassilis have held court for centuries, on cliffs over the sea. 7 M. S. of Maybole are the ruins of Turn- berry Castle, made famous by Robert Bruce and Wal- ter Scott. 22 M. by rail from Ayr is Girpan, 10 M. off shore from which Ailsa Craig rises from the sea, 1,100 ft. high, and 2 M. around. The rly. runs farther S. to Portpatrick; Stranraer; Glenluce, near the ruins of Luce Abbey (founded 1190) and Soulseat Abbey; picturesque little Wigtown, near Baldoon Castle, the scene of Scott’s “Bride of Lammermoor; ” and other localities famous in the chronicles of the borders and the sea, - the Bruce, the Wallace, and the Cove- manters. Ayr can be visited from Glasgow (40M.) in an after- noon. (Fares, 5s., 4s., 3s.) Leaving Ayr for Glas- gow, in 6%. M. the train reaches Troon, the chief sea- port and summer-resort of Ayrshire, 3 M. from the 60 PAISLEY. — GLASGOW. great ruins of Dundonald Castle, the home of the founder of the Stuart dynasty; a branch line runs (9 M.) to Kilmarnock, where Burns's poems were first published. Beyond Troon, the Glasgow train passes Irvine, where the poet Montgomery was born, where Burns lived for a time, and where Robert Bruce sur- rendered to the English army under Percy. 3; M. farther on is Kilwinning, with the ruins of an ancient priory, famous in Masonic annals; and also the impos- ing Eglinton Castle, the seat of the Montgomeries. Paisley (George Hotel ; County) contains a magnifi- cent Town Hall; a jail, which looks like a palace; a museum of local antiquities and relics; and the Abbey Church, founded in 1169. In the Reformation, Paisley was noted for its intense devotion to the Catholic re- ligion. The chapel of the abbey contains a “sound- ing aisle,” so . from its remarkable echo. The nave, which remains entire, is used as a parish ch. Paisley (once a Roman fortress) was of no importance until the last century; but now its trade includes weav- ing, shawls, and thread-making (the establishments of Coats, and Clark & Co. are the largest of their kind in the world). “Christopher North '' was born here. Not far from Paisley is the farm of Moorhouse, where Robert Pollok, author of “The Course of Time,” was born, in 1798. See Crookston Castle, where Queen Mary was betrothed to Darnley, half-way between Paisley and Glasgow. (Hotels, St. Enoch’s George ; Crown ; Alexandra; Bath ; Bedford.) The American tourist will find a vast deal to occupy his attention in this, the second city in population and commercial importance in Great Britain. A small Roman colony once occupied this SCOTLAND. 61 site. About the year 560 St. Mungo founded a reli- gious house here, and the village was nurtured by the Church for a thousand years. At the Reformation Glasgow had but 4,000 inhabitants, and in 1708 it had 12,776. But towards the end of the 18th century it began to increase enormously; and in 1880 the esti- mated population within the municipal boundary was 589,598; and if the suburbs were included, 750,000. The importation of tobacco from Virginia and Mary- land was long one of the chief branches of industry. To-day, this town, 60 M. from the sea, rivals Liv- erpool in shipping, Manchester in cotton-spinning, Newcastle in coal, the Thames and the Tyne in iron ship-building, and Wolverhampton in iron furnaces. The perseverance of the Scotch in converting the Clyde into a vast harbor, cannot be too much admired. Glas- gow was the first city in Europe to possess a regular line of steamboats. In 1812–18 steam-packets crossed the Irish Straits between Greenock and Belfast. It was in Glasgow that James Watt perfected his famous invention. In 1718 the first ship, a little craft of 60 tons, left Glasgow for the New World. The statistics show that 13,071 ships (6,662,501 tons) entered or left the port in 1880. The commercial fleet of Glasgow was 1,088 ships and 532 steamers. The movement of Greenock was 7,890 ships (1,943,200 tons). Walk down to the splendid Glasgow Bridge, from which there is a fine view of the * Broomielaw, or Harbor, on which more than £2,000,000 has been spent. The Broomielaw is 400 ft. wide, and extends down the stream for 13, M., walled on either side by su- perb ranges of docks, along which ships are laid three or four deep. From the Bridge upstream a good view of the Custom House on the N. bank is commanded. The works on the Clyde have cost £8,500,000, or 62 GLASGOW. $42,500,000. In 1760 James Watt reported a maxi- mum depth of water at the Broomielaw of 3 ft. 3 in. Now, as the result of the constant dredging, vessels drawing 23 ft. of water enter freely. Glasgow is in the famous Lanarkshire black district, which has a great coal-field, rich also in seams of ironstone. There are so many blast furnaces here that the sky to the S. and S. E. is lighted up nightly with their glow as if by a great conflagration. The E. section of the city includes the main business part, and the objects of antiquarian interest. The W. is the section for residences of the fashionable people; and on the S. are the great public works. Buchanan- St. is handsomely built, and contains the finest shops and offices. Argyle-St., 3 M. long (including Trongate and Gallowgate), is the main thoroughfare. George-St. is an avenue extending the whole length of the city and passing through George Square. This is a cen- tral point, and lies close to the two principal rly. stats. In the centre stands the Scott Monument, a fluted col- umn surmounted by a gigantic statue. On the E. and W. are equestrian bronze statues of Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort. There are also figures of James Watt, by Chantrey; the exquisite statue of Sir John Moore (a native of Glasgow), by Flaxman ; one of Dr. Livingstone, the traveller; and others to Camp- bell the poet, Sir Robert Peel, Robert Burns, Lord Clyde, and Dr. Graham. On the S. is the General Post-Office, plain but spacious; and the E. is for new municipal buildings. The Bank of Scotland and the Merchants' House occupy the W. side. The Royal Exchange is in the Corinthian style, with rich colon- nades. Strangers are admitted to the news-room, 130 ft. long by 60 ft. broad, with a noble arched roof. See Hutcheson's Hospital, Corinthian buildings with a SCOTLAND. 63 high tower, founded in 1641 by two brothers; and the Athenaeum, originally the Glasgow Assembly Rooms ; also St. David’s Ch. and the Mitchell Library. In Argyle-St., at the so-called Cross of Glasgow, whence High-St., Gallowgate, London-St., and Saltmarket di- verge, stands an equestrian statue of William III. At the corner of the High-St. and Trongate formerly stood the old Court House, in front of which criminals were executed, and the ancient jail, of which Walter Scott speaks. See the Cross Steeple, a relic of the old municipal splendor. The ancient Saltmarket, Princes- St., and Kings-St., and the adjacent closes and wynds, on Saturday evenings afford scenes of violence and brutality among the lower classes. Walk up High-St. on the E. side from the Trongate to the Cathedral. See old Glasgow College (built 1632–52, in quaint and gloomy monastic forms), now a rly. Stat. Opposite, at the corner of High and College Sts., is the house in which Thomas Campbell lived as a student. Farther on is the place called the Bell of the Brae, where, in 1300, Wallace and his Scots defeated thrice their num- ber of Englishmen, and Wallace clove Lord Percy's head in twain; and a little beyond this is the homely Barony Ch., once in charge of Dr. Norman MacLeod. The Cathedral is famous as one of the two Catholic chs. spared in Scotland by the fury of the Reformation. The Presbyterian ministers prevailed on the magis- trates in 1579 to have it torn down; but the corpora- tions of the city rose in arms, and prevented it. Two stone “idols” were taken out of their nooks and broken to pieces, as Scott has told us, “ and the auld Kirk stood as crouse as a cat when the flaes are kaimed off her, and a body was alike pleased.” (Admittance daily, except Sun., 10–6; Tues. and Thurs., 2d.) This noble structure is dedicated to St. Kentigern, or St. Mungo, 64 GLASGOW CATHEDIRAL, the founder of the see of Glasgow, who was buried on the E. end of the cathedral-site. The edifice is pic. turesquely located; and above it, on terraces almost oriental in their construction, arises the Necropolis, the finest cemetery in the city, with rich shrubber. ies and crowds of monuments; approached from the cathedral by the Bridge of Sighs. The arrangement of the monuments is very remarkable, and forms a noble background to the ancient cathedral. The most noted monuments are those of John Knox the Re- former, Dr. William Black, Rev. Dr. Dick, and Major Monteith. Climbing to the summit one overlooks the vast city, with its enormous ranges of buildings, and its forests of chimneys, and of masts along the Clyde, and the blue hills of Lanark, Renfrew, and Argyll. The original cathedral was founded in the reign of David I., in 1136. Murdo, the famous architect, built it; and the inscription on his tomb alludes with pride to the fact. The cathedral is 319 ft. long and 63 ft. wide. The W. door is rich and beautiful. Its general design is French, but the mouldings and details are English. The interior contains 147 pillars, and many of the 159 windows are of very beautiful workmanship. The en- trance is by a door in the S. aisle. Before the Refor- mation, the ch, was divided into two parts, and service was held in each. For interesting details, see Fergus- son's Architecture. The * Crypt is unique in beauty, and is certainly one of the most perfect pieces of archi- tecture in Britain. It is supported by 65 pillars (18 ft. high), some of which are 18 ft. in circumference; and illuminated from 41 windows. The piers and groin- ings are of exquisitely beautiful and varied designs. In the centre stands the shrine of St. Mungo. At the S. E. corner is St. Mungo's Well. See also the tomb of Edward Irving, who died at Glasgow in 1834. SCOTLAND. 65 In “Rob Roy’” there is an interesting description of this crypt. Other things to note are the stained- glass windows, executed in Munich, for £100,000 (ex- planations of the windows, 2d.); the Dripping Aisle, so called from the perpetual dripping of water from the roof; the Choir, locally known as the High Ch., now used as one of the city chs. ; magnificent organ here; behind it, the chapel and the chapter-house. The curi- ous old ch.-yard is literally paved with stone slabs, with inscriptions to the memory of local notables. The new University, the most imposing modern edifice in Scotland, is approached through JWest End Park : take the footpath from the bridge over the Kelvin. From the platform, good view. The Univer- sity has a frontage of 600 ft., with fine central tower, 310 ft. high. The architect was the late Sir G. Gilbert Scott. In general style the buildings are Early Eng- lish. The buildings will have cost £500,000. The museum, rich in mineralogy, geology, and natural his- tory, is open daily, 10–3 (admission, 6d.). In the Hunterian Library, valuable series of early printed books. The University was founded about 1450 by Bishop Turnbull. In 1560 Queen Mary endowed it With a moiety of the conſiscated Church property in the City. Its renown as a seat of learning culminated in the last century. Cullen and Black, Hunter and Reid, Adam Smith and Watt, are among the great names asso. Ciated with it. Near by is the Botanical Garden. The Corporation Galleries of Art have valuable collections of paintings (by Claude, Cuyp, Teniers, Murillo, etc.); alsº a marble statue of Pitt, by Flaxman, and por. traits of the English kings. Galleries free daily, Sun- “ays excepted. See St. Andrew's Palace and the Kelvin Grove Park and Museum. The park contains * fountain commemorating the introduction of water 5 66 DUMBARTON CASTLE. * from Loch Katrine. In Kelvin Grove is the Industrial Museum. Near the University is the New Western Infirmary. The beautiful squares and terraces in the W. contain the homes of the rich merchants, the “to- bacco lords,” and the great ship-builders. Glasgow Green is a park extending 1 M. along the Clyde, adorned with an obelisk to Lord Nelson, and the scene of very remarkable open-air preaching on summer Sunday evenings. In this park Prince Charles Edward reviewed his army in 1745; and here, also, Watt was strolling when the central idea of the steam-engine occurred to him. To the S. of Queen's Park is the village of Langside, where Queen Mary met with her final defeat, in 1668. A memorial stone marks the spot whence Mary witnessed the battle. - Excursions around Glasgow. — To Greenock, by the river; past the suburb of Govan and the ship. yards of Messrs. Napier, etc.; the old royal burgh of Benfrew, near which Somerled, Thane of Argyll, was defeated and slain in 1164; Erskine Ferry, where the Earl of Argyll was captured, in 1685, in the disguise of a peasant; Dalnottar and the craggy Kilpatrick Hills; Bowling, near the high ruins of Dunglas Castle and the end of Antoninus's wall; and Dunglaspoint, with its monument to Henry Bell, who first introduced steam navigation on the Clyde. Dumbarton Castle, at the junction of the Leven (Loch Lomond's outlet) || and Clyde, is on a rock measuring 1 M. around and 560 ft. high. Part of it bears the name of Wallace's Tower. The Scottish hero was imprisoned there; and his huge two-handed sword is still shown. There is a tradition that Satan threw Dumbarton Rock at St. Patrick. The castle is one of four garrisoned in Scot land by the British army, and commands the Clyde with batteries. It was the capital of a Roman province, SCOTLAND. 67 and afterwards repelled the Norwegian Vikings. It was held by Robert Bruce in 1309; and in 1571 Capt. Crawford carried it by escalade, at night. In 1652 it was taken by Cromwell’s troops. At the portcullis may be seen carven heads of Wallace, and Menteith, his betrayer. At the summit the remains of a Roman fort are shown. Queen Mary spent some time here. 2 M. from Dumbarton is the village of Cardross, where stood the old castle in which King Robert Bruce died, in 1329. Greenock (Tontine Hotel; White Hart : Duck's Head; rly, from Glasgow, 1s. 6d. ; population, 80,000) is one of the chief seaports of Great Britain, and very picturesquely situated. Vast new docks are being built. The shipyards are among the largest on the Clyde. The ocean steamers for New York take their passengers and mails at the Tail of the Bank. Fine view, from the shore, of the mts. of Argyllshire and Dumbartonshire. Burns's “Highland Mary’ is buried in the old kirkyard. There is a beautiful statue of James Watt, by Chantrey, in a memorial building in Union-St. Travellers going to Oban and Inverary should take steamer at Greenock. Nearly opposite is Helensburgh (Queen's Hotel; Imperial), a pretty town, much frequented in summer by pleasure-seekers. The Gareloch is the name of a fine sea-basin (steamers ply on it), which stretches N. from Helensburgh for about 7; M. Its shores are covered with beautiful villas, Roseneath, Ardincaple Castle, etc. The famous Glen Fruin lies on the E. Another good excursion can be made in one day by the Caledonian Rly. to Hamilton, passing through Rutherſ/len, a royal burgh as early as 1126. Hamil- ton (County Hotel ; Commercial) contains many inter- esting historical places. See site of King's Head, where Cromwell lodged during his foray into Scotland; and 68 HAMILTON PALACE. — LANARK. the old Steeple and Pillory, built in the reign of Charles I. Hamilton Palace, seat of the Duke of Hamilton and Brandon, stands in a beautiful park; 2 M. S. E. are the ruins of Cadzow Castle. On Both- well Bridge, 2 M. N. of Hamilton, a famous encoun- ter between the Covenanters and the Royal forces took place in 1679. A little beyond is Bothwell, noted for its old ch., where Robert, Duke of Rothesay, was married. Bothwell Castle (admission, Tues. and Fri., 10–3; see local guide-books) is on the r. bank of the Clyde, 1 M. from the village. The ruins afford an almost perfect example of Norman architecture. See the circular towers; remains of the chapel, with shafted windows; and a circular dungeon called Wal- lace's Beef-barrel. The walls are covered with ivy and wild roses. The walk between Hamilton and Bothwell is extremely interesting. Lanark (Clydesdale Hotel) was the scene of many of Wallace's exploits. There is a statue of him at the parish ch. Corra Linn is 1; M. S., a beautiful fall of 85 ft. ; and the pretty Bonnington Linn is ; M. beyond. Stoneb/res Linn is 2; M. N. of Lanark, near the Cartland Crags. Tickets must be obtained. The Scottish Highlands. A Round Trip from Glasgow to Glasgow by way of Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, the Trossachs, and Cal/ander; from Callander to Ohan : with Ercursions from Oban to Staffa, Iona, and Inverness ; and from Oban to Glasgow, by the Criman Canal and Rothesay. We recommend this route as giving a wide survey of typical Scotch mt., lake, and coast scenery, within a brief period and at small cost. The trip through the lochs and the Trossachs to Callander begins at the SCOTLAND. 69 Queen-St. stat, in Glasgow, at 7.40 A.M. Buy a ticket for Inversnaid, the point at which Loch Lomond is left (fare, 9s. 3d.), and proceed by train to Balloch (20 M.). The route passes Dumbarton, and gives a good view of Wallace’s Seat; through the valley where, in the parish of Cardross, Smollett, the historian and novelist, was born; and up the glen of the Leven's transparent water. At Balloch the train stops close to the steamer. Loch Lomond is certainly very beautiful when the sunlight plays upon the water and on the guardian mts. It is about 21 M. long, and, at its S. end, 5 M. broad. Under the base of Ben Lomond it is 120 fathoms deep. The area covered by water is 20,000 acres; 32 islands are scattered over the lake, bearing ruins of ancient monasteries and castles. Most of these belong to the Duke of Montrose, who uses Inchmurrin, the largest, as a deer-park. “Loch Lomond,” says Baddeley, “has neither the matchless depth and deli- cacy of coloring which characterizes the foot of Loch Katrine, nor the wild grandeur of Loch Coruisk, nor, in fairness let us add, the dignity of Loch Maree; but . . it blends together in one scene a greater variety of the elements which we admire in lake scenery than any other Scottish loch.” The steamer leaves Balloch Castle on the r. ; passes to the r. of Inchmurrin, with its ruined Castle, and calls first at Balmaha. Near by is Inchcailloch, the “Island of Women’’ (so called be- Cause a nunnery once existed there). It is the burying- place of the Macgregors. The next landing-place is Luss, on the 1.; a picturesque little village, with a good hotel. Fine view of the lake from Strone Brae hill. As the boat moves N., the great mass of Ben Lomond comes fully into view. Rowardennan, on the F., has a hotel. Here is the best starting-point for the 70 BEN LOMOND. — TARBET. ascent of Ben Lomond, 3,192 ft. high, and the favor. ite climb in Scotland. The rough pony-track begins opposite the hotel, and climbs over the ridge between Loch Lomond and the Loch-ard valley. Ascents also are made from Inversmaid and Aberfoil. In clear weather the castles of Stirling and Edinburgh, and the Firth of Forth, can be seen. Time from Rowarden. man, 2–3 hrs. ; distance, 6 M.; pony and guide, 8s. Opposite Rowardennan is Glen Douglas (Inveruglas Hotel), from which point a pretty road leads to Loch Long. Glen Douglas can be reached by ferry across the lake. The boat moves on under the shadow of Ben Lomond, and crosses to the l. bank, to Tarbet (M'Pherson’s Hotel, good but dear), charm. ingly situated, 8 M. from the head of the loch. From thence coach may be taken to Loch Long, or to In- verary by Glencroe (24 M.; fare, 8s.). Loch Long (salt water) is separated from Loch Lomond by a well. wooded isthmus. Glencroe is a wild mt. pass, 860 ft. high. From here the road to Inverary turns N., and skirts the upper edge of Loch Fyne. Inverary (Argyll Arms; George) is a small town celebrated as the Highland headquarters of the Duke of Argyll (the MacCallum Mor). Inverary Castle, the ducal residence, is an ugly building in the midst of beautiful grounds. This point may be reached by other routes from Glasgow, especially by the steamer Lord of the Isles (fares, 7 s. 6d., 6s., 5s.). sº From Tarbet cross Loch Lomond to Inversmaid, where coaches are taken for Loch Katrine. The hea of Loch Lomond is 3 M. above. 1 M. above is R' Roy's Cave, a narrow opening in the bank near tº water's edge, where it is said that Rob Roy kept his prisoners. Ardlui is the last town on the lake; coaches to Crianlarich (9 M.), whence rly. to Oban. SCOTLAND. 71 Inversmaid has a comfortable hotel. There is a scramble for places on the coaches for Loch Katrine; and the canny Scot exacts 2d. pier dues from each person. The Inversmaid Waterfall is where Wordsworth met the “Highland Girl,” of whom he sang so sweetly. Opposite Inversmaid is Inveruglas Isle, on which are the ruins of an ancient castle of the Macfarlanes. The road to Loch Katrine (5 M.) lies over a very steep hill, by the hovels pointed out as the former homes of Rob Roy and Helen Macgregor; the Fort of Invers- maid, erected to check the depredations of Rob Roy’s band, - Gen. Wolfe was once quartered there; and Loch Arklet, half-way to Stronachlachar Pier, on a bay near the W. end of Loch Katrine. At the hotel here a good lunch can be obtained. Loch Katrine (or Cateran, “Robbers’ Lake”) is Glasgow's reservoir. The water drunk by the 750,000 people gathered on the banks of the Clyde is conveyed from this lovely basin for 34 M. The aqueduct re- quired the building of 70 tunnels, and cost £1,500,000. A Lilliputian steamer (fare, 2s. 6d.) carries you past Ellen's Isle (see “The Lady of the Lake"), the Silver Strand, and the Goblin’s Cave ; and affords glimpses of “huge Ben Venue.” The loch is 8 M. long, and averages # M. wide. To be seen to advantage, it must have plenty of sunshine, and then it seems “one bur- jº sheet of living gold.” You land where all the beauties of the lake are Concentrated. If you can, by all means walk up through the gorge to the Trossachs Hotel (1 M.). The Trossachs, the “bristling country,” gains in loveli- ness in a rainy day. There is something weird in a ride through this leafy glen, with the rain rustling in the trees. The gorge extends from Loch Katrine to och Achray, between the range of Ben A'an, on the 72 LOCH ACHRAY. — LOCH WENNACHAR. r. (1,500 ft.), and Ben Wenue (2,393 ft.), on the l. In this labyrinth of rocks and mounds, of oak and rowan and birch, of crag and grove and tarn, the most prosaic traveller may well become enthusiastic. Walter Scott's poems are good companions here. You can call up memories of Fitz James and his “gallant grey,” and of the “ Knight of Snowdoun,” on his way to the Silver Strand. In Scott's early days there was no road through this pass. The Trossachs Hotel is a pretty (and dear) house. Excursions thence to the tops of Ben Venue and Ben A'an, and to the wild Pass of Beal-nam-bo. Distances by Road. — Loch Katrine to Trossachs Hotel, 1 M.; Loch Achray, 2% ; Brigg of Turk, 3}; Loch Vennachar, 4%; Coilantogle Ford, 7; Callander, .9%. Loch Achray is noticeable for its tranquil beauty. It is 3 M. long, and the shores are clad with copse to the very water’s edge. “The Lady of the Lake” will be found the best guide here. You next reach the Brigg of Turk, where, in the famous chase, as Sir Walter informs us, “the headmost horseman rode alone.” Near this bridge over Achray Water is the blackened ruin of the New Trossachs Hotel. Fine view of Ben Venue from here. Next come the Dun- craggan Huts; and then Loch Vennachar (4 M. long), the “Lake of the Fair Valley.” On the N. shore is Ben Ledi, the “Hill of God” (2,875 ft.). To climb Ben Ledi by the Pass of Lemy is an admirable excursion. Here you are in the real Highland country. The hills are aglow with purple colors; the black-faced cattle with widely projecting horns look down defiantly at you from the steep pasturages; a countryman in kilt trudges by. The coaches rattle past Coilantogle Ford, “Clan-Alpine's outmost guard,” where Roderick Dhu challenged Fitz James; and bring up in Cal. SCOTLAND. 73 lander. Here. you may take train to Stirling and Edinburgh; but if you desire to see the real High- lands, continue on our route. Callander (Hotels, Dreadnought, very good; Mac- greſſor, fair) is in the centre of a delicious country. l; M. from the town are the Bracklinn Falls. A pleas- ant excursion may be made through the Pass of Lemy to Strathyre, returning by train (8; M. to walk). It is easy to climb Ben Ledi thence (3 hrs. ; pony and guide, 10s.), and stand on the sumooth green summit where the ancient Druid fires were kept. From Callander to Oban. — Rly. fare, 1st class, 12s. ; time, 5–6 hrs. This line is one of the most beautiful in Scotland, and was one of the most ex- pensive. Including the harbor-works at Oban, it cost £645,000. The line crosses the Teith; skirts the base of Ben Ledi ; and traverses the Pass of Lemy, which ex- tends between Callander and Loch Lubnaig. This loch is 5 M. long and 1 M. broad, and surrounded by high mts. Near the Falls of Lemy is the churchyard of the Chapel of St. Bride, noticed in the “Lady of the Lake.” Just beyond Loch Lubnaig the rly. crosses the River Balpaſ, and passes Strathyre and King's- House stat., whence Balquhidder and Loch Voil can be visited (2 M.). In the graveyard of the old ivy- covered chapel of Balquhidder is the stone said to cover the grave of Rob Roy. The hamlet is intimately connected with the history of the Macgregors. The road now rises, and gives a good view of Loch Earn and Ben Worlich, on the E. It next traverses Glen Ogle. The rly, is constructed on the side, 300–400 ft. above the lowest level. The margin of Loch Dochart, above which rises Ben More, is next passed; after which Crianlarich stat. (coaches to Loch Lomond) is reached. A fine stretch of Highland landscape is seen 74 LOCH AWE. — OBAN. shortly before arriving at Dalmally. Just beyond Dal- mally, Loch Awe, one of the most picturesque of the Highland Lakes, 22 M. in length, is reached. . Near it is Ben Cruachan (3,611 ft.); and in the lake are many islands, the largest being the Island of the Druids. At the N. end stand the ruins of Kilchurn Castle ; and in the centre of the lake, on an islet, are the ruins of the ancient castle of Ardconnel, a former seat of the Campbells. The rly. descends towards the head of Loch Awe, and crosses the Orchy on a viaduct. From Taynuilt, on Loch Etive, a steamer may be taken, and a circular trip to Glencoe (34 M.) and Balachulish (41 M.) begun. Beyond is Connell Ferry, near the Falls of Commell. To the r. stands the ivy-mantled Ardchat- tan Priory, built in 1231 by the Lord of Lorne, and burned during the wars of Montrose. Oban (Hotels, good, but expensive : Great Western ; Alexandra ; Caledonian ; Imperial; Queen's, and, on the hill, the Grand, and the Craigard) is the most cen- tral point for excursions through this weird northern land of lochs and islands, which has always had a strange glamour of romance about it. It is also the meeting-place of southern fashionables, and members of the English nobility and the republic of letters. Oban extends along and above a pretty bay, and is the most accessible place N. of Glasgow. Wessels can anchor safely within a few yards of the shore. Dunollie Castle, 1 M. distant, nobly placed on a pedestal of rock at the N. end of the bay, and tººl with ivy, was built by the Lords of Lorne, and is now owned by their descendants the M’Dougalls. The rocky island of Kerrera, 4 M. long, serves as a breakwater to the bay. It was here (in 1263) that Haco, King of Nor- way, met the Highland chiefs who aided him in his disastrous raid on the coast of Scotland. Here, also, SCOTLAND. 75 Alexander II. died, in 1249. The seaward view from the heights, reached by Craigard road, is very fine. Scott made the popularity of Oban by his poem, “The Lord of the Isles,” the scene of which is laid here- abouts, and in the islands on the W. Fine promenade along the bay. Dunstaffnage Castle, 4 M. N. E., was the seat of the Scottish government for more than 3 centuries (A.D. 300–600). There was the famous Coronation Stone, finally removed to Westminster. Admission to the castle, free. To Staffa and Iona is a sea voyage of about 90 M. (10 hrs.). Boats leave the pier at 8 A.M. Fare, about 20s., including the landings at Staffa and Iona. The steamer passes on the r. Dunollie and Maiden Island, and the Lighthouse, at the S. end of Lismore, near which is the Lady Rock, where, according to tradition, a vindictive Highlander left his wife to perish by the rising tide. The boat next passes through the Sound of Mull, which separates Mull from the mainland; crosses the mouth of Loch Aline, on whose shore lived Dr. Norman MacLeod, the former editor of Good Words; calls at Tobermory, near the mansion of Alex- ander Allan, of the Allan Line; passes the Caliach Point, whence a good view N. can generally be had as far as Skye; and then goes S. to The Island of Staffa, 8 M. from Mull. It is of irregular oval shape, and 1% M. around. This island and Iona are owned by the Duke of Argyll. When the sea is reasonably calm, passengers are conveyed in small boats into the mouth of Fingal's Cave, 60- 70 ft.*in height, supporting an entablature of 30 ft. additional. The pillars by which it is bounded on the W. side are 36 ft. high; on the E. only 18 ft. The length is 227 ft. The finest views are obtained through the end of the causeway at low water. The front and 76 IONA. — CALEDONIAN CANAL. sides are composed of countless ranges of columns. A shepherd and his wife were sent to Staffa, to take care of the sheep; but the noise of the waves was so dismal that they begged to be taken away. 8 M. S. is Iona (4 square M. in area), which was founded in the 6th century by St. Columba and the Culdees, and often ravaged by the Norsemen and Danes. Visit the ruins of the Nummery of St. Mary, dating from the 13th century; and the ancient Cathedral ; also the great Stone Cross, the only one remaining of 360 once stand- ing on the island, but broken and thrown into the sea at the Reformation. The run back to Oban by the S. of Mull is, in fine weather, very charming. Do not forget plenty of wraps and umbrellas. Another excursion, made in one day, is from Oban to Loch E/ive, Glen Efive, and Glencoe, and thence to Balachulish, returning by Loch Linnhe. Time, about 10 hrs. ; fare, by º and steamer, 25s. Another is from Oban to Ford by the Pass of Melfort, returning by Loch Awe and the Oban Rly. This may be made comfortably between 9 A.M. and 5 P.M. Fares, 17s., 15s. 6d. Another is to Fort William, Ben Nevis, and Banarie, interesting, but long, for vacation tourists. The Caledonian Canal. — People who have time to go to Inverness should take steamer through the great Caledonian Canal, built 1803–47, and 60% M. long. It was necessary to cut through only 23 M., as the sheets of fresh water which abound in the Great Glen of Scotland were utilized. The depth of water is about 17 ft. The steamer going N. leaves, Qban at 5 P.M., and passengers sleep at Banavie tº Lochiel Arms, from which fine view of Ben Nevis). Loch Linnhe, through which the steamers pass, is famous for beautiful scenery. Fort William was one of the keys of the Highlands, built by Gen. Monk. Note SCOTLAND. 77 Inverlochy Castle, famous in ancient wars, near the mouth of the Lundie. From Fort William to Banavie is 3 M. Ben Wevis, near here, 4,406 ft. high, is the highest mt. in Scotland. It is a vast mass of brown porphyry, cleft with glens and fissures; and on its crags the snow lies all summer. The view is 100 M. in diameter, including all the chief peaks of Scotland. From Banavie, the ascent (8 M.) occupies 3}–5 hrs. (descent, l; hrs.). Glen Nevis is worth a visit. Shortly after leaving Banavie, the steamer passes (on the r.) the ruined Tor Castle. On the W. side of Loch Lochy see the ruined home of Lochiel, whose ſidelity and exile are famous. Loch Lochy is 10 M. long; and a canal, 2 M. in length, leads to Loch Oich (4 M.), the central lake of the chain, as well as the smallest and highest. On its W. shore stands Invergarry Castle, burned in the revolution of 1745; and near the castle is “The Well of Seven Heads,” commemorating the vengeance on the murderers of the Keppochs. At Aberchalder the steamer descends 7 locks to Fort Augustus. Pas- sengers can walk down in about 1% hrs. At Fort Augustus is the Co/lege of St. Benedict, a vast pile of buildings in the Early English Gothic style. Loch Ness, “the loch of the cataract,” is 24 M. long, and has a depth of 130 fathoms. At the pier of Foyers the steamer stops long enough to permit a visit to the beautiful Fall of Foyers (I M. S.), “the most magnifi- cent cataract in Britain.” The height of the larger fall is about 90 ft. Burns wrote a fine description of the scene. There is a charming route along the hills, between Foyers and Inverness. This is the country for pedestrian tours. At the N. base of the great peak of Mealfourvonie, are the ruins of Urquhart Castle, besieged in 1303 by the troops of Edward I. The guides show an arrangement in the windows for pour- 78 INVERNESS. — NAIRN. ing molten lead on besiegers. 8 M. from Urquhart, Loch Dochfour is entered by a narrow passage, # M. long; and the steamer presently reaches Muirtown, a suburb of Inverness (Royal Hotel; Caledonian ; Station; Im- perial). This venerable capital of the Highlands is situated at the mouth of the river Ness, where the basins of the Moray and Beauly Firths and the Glen of Scotland meet. Macbeth, Malcolm Canmore, James I., Queen Mary, Montrose, and other famous Scots are connected with its history. The new Cathedral of St. Andrew is a beautiful decorated Gothic ch. 6 M. out is the battlefield of Culloden, where the hopes of the House of Stuart were finally extinguished, in 1746. The cairn of stones marks the place where the battle took place; and the large bowlder shows where the Duke of Cumberland took up his position. An excur- sion may be made from Inverness to Cawdor Castle, rendered famous by Shakespeare, and a fine specimen of the old baronial strongholds. Splendid view from the battlements. Nairn, 15+ M. from Inverness, is a fashionable resort for sea-bathing. Near it is Auldearm, where Montrose won a great battle over the Cove- manters, who lost 2–3,000 men. The Inverness region was the scene of Hugh Miller's geological researches. Persons who have come from Oban to Inverness may go down to Edinburgh via Stirling (2134 M.; fares, 34s. 6d., 25s. 10d., 18s.). From Oban to Glasgow. — We return by the Criman Canal. This charming journey may be made between 8 A.M. and 6 P.M. (fares, 13s., 7s.6d.); and we recommend it as the best way back. The steamers Iona and Columba are magnificent boats, equipped on an American scale of comfort. From Oban the boats go down the Sound of Kerrera, pass Gylen Castle and SCOTLAND. 79 the island of Mull, through the Firth of Lorne, and the Little Easdale Sound. There are only one or two places where the boat emerges into open water, and so nothing is to be feared from sea-sickness. The route lies inside the island of Seil to Blackmill Bay, and past the mouth of Loch Craignish, leaving Shuna and Luing Islands on the r. At Crinan passengers are trans- ferred from the Iona to a little steamer, and carried through the Criman Canal, 9 M. long, to Loch Fyne. The canal was built (in 1801) to obviate the necessity of doubling the Mull of Kintyre, a dangerous route of 70 M. The views are pretty, and the passage of the 9 locks is curious; but the journey is fatiguing. At Ardrishaig passengers go on the Columba, a large and fine steamer. Dinner is served on board (3s.). Look well to your baggage. From Ardrishaig the boat moves down Loch Fyne to Tarbert. Good views of the peaks of Ben Cruachan on the N., and the Arran mts. on the S. After a pleasant passage through the picturesque Kyles of Bute, a strait between Bute and the mainland, the boat touches at Rothesay (Queen's Hotel ; Star ; Bute Arms), a handsome town of about 8,000 inhab., the capital of the island of Bute (18 × 5 M. in area), standing by a fine bay. Here are the ruins of Rothesay Castle, built before 1100, by Magnus, King of Norway; and once a royal residence. The duke- dom of Rothesay was the first conferred in Scotland. The brother of the Earl of Argyll burned the castle in 1685. See the ruins of the choir of the old Kirk of St. Mary. Rothesay is a favorite summer-resort. The glimate is very mild and genial. Consumptive invalids have found a decided benefit at Rothesay. Hydro- pathic establishments near the town. From Rothesay to Dunoon (Argyll Hotel; Crown ; Royal) is a sail of 10 M. Dunoon is one of the large watering-places on 80 STIRLING. the Clyde, and the neighborhood is picturesque. From Dunoon to Greenock, 8 M. by steamer. Passengers can save about 1 hr. by taking train from Greenock to Glasgow. Glasgow to Stirling, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, and Edinburgh. We now recommend the traveller to go by rail (30 M.; fares, 5s. 10d., 2s. 5d.) from Glasgow direct to Stirling (Golden Lion Hotel ; Royal ; Station), one of the most interesting towns in Scotland. It is on the river Forth; and its Castle stands on the top of a huge rock overlooking the broad Carse of Stirling. Here Alexander I. died in 1124; and in 1304 the stout fortress sustained a three-months’ siege by Edward I. All the besieging implements in the Tower of London were brought up; and it was due to one of these ter. rible engines, called “The Wolf,” that the castle sur- rendered. This was the key of the main passage between the N. and S. of Scotland. Edward II. fought the fatal battle of Bannockburn, in his endeavor to raise the siege laid to the proud castle. Edward Balliol captured it after the death of Bruce; and King 1)avid recovered it only after a violent siege. It was a royal residence under the Stuarts. James II, and . James V, were born here; James III. built the Par- liament House; James IV. made it his favorite resi- dence. James W. built the Palace, which occupies the S. W. portion. The sculptures are very rich and gro- tesque. A few of the original “Stirling heads”-- wooden effigies of the Scotch kings — may be seen in the old Court-room in Broad-St. Stirling Castle was taken by Gen. Monk in 1651, and beat off Prince Charles in 1745. In the Douglas Room the powerful SCOTLAND. 81 Earl of Douglas was stabbed by his sovereign. Stirling Castle is now an infantry barrack. The View from the Battlements is imposing. The Vale of Menteith, Ben Lomond, Ben Venue, Ben A'an, Ben Ledi, are all dis- tinctly seen. N. E. are the Ochil Hills; S., the Campsie Hills; and on the N., the Abbey Craig, Cambusken- neth Abbey, the Wallace Monument, and the Bridge of Allan. See The Bruce Monumen/ ; The Back Wa/k, W. of the Castle Rock; the Greyfriars Ch., erected in 1494 by James IV. (James VI. was crowned there in 1567, and John Knox preached the Coronation ser- mon); Argyll's Lodging and Mar's Work, the most interesting of the old houses; the Town House, in Broad-St., in front of which Hamilton, the last Catholic Archbishop of Scotland, was hanged, in 1571; Cowan’s Hospital; the Cemetery (many statues), S. of the Esplanade; the Old Bridge, near which was fought the battle of Stirling (1297), when the Scots under Wallace defeated the English. A carriage to the Castle costs 2s. 6d. Ercursions from Stirling. — To Cambuskenneth Abbey (1 M.), founded in 1147, and once the rich- est abbey in Scotland. — To the Wallace Monument (by tramway, 2d.), a tower 220 ft. high, on a rock called A60ey Craig (560 ft.). — To Lake of Men- teiſh and beautiful Aberfoil, on the river Forth. — To Bridge of Allan (3 M.), resorted to for the Airthrey chalybeate water. Dunblane (S/irling Arms), near by, is celebrated for the Cathedral of St. Blane, a good specimen of Gothic architecture. It was rebuilt in 1240, and shattered by the Reformers in 1559. Battlefield of Sheriffmuir (1715) close by. Beyond Dunblane, is Doune Castle. — To Bannockburn, where Robert Bruce and 30,000 Scots defeated Edward II. and 100,000 English troops, and won the indepen- 6 82 PERTH. — DUNKELD. dence of Scotland. — To the noble ruins of Linlithgow Palace, — a favorite seat of the kings of Scotland. Perth (British Hotel; Royal George; Queen’s Salu. tation) may be visited from Stirling (6.9 M.; fares, 5s. 6d., 4s. 2d., 2s. 9d.). It is a superbly situated city, of 30,000 inhab., with monuments to Scott and Prince Albert, and a handsome new Anglican cathedral. In the quaint Ch. of St. John, John Knox preached. The North Inch and South Inch, by the side of the Tay, are the parks of the city, and were the scene of the battle described in The Fair Maid of Perth. When Agricola established Roman camps hereabouts, Perth was al. ready a town; and from the overthrow of the Picts until 1437 (600 years) it was the capital of Scotland. In 1210 it became a royal burgh; in 1310 Robert Bruce stormed its walls; and in 1437 James I. was murdered here. An old house in Curfew Row is be: lieved to be that described by Scott as the home of the “Fair Maid.” Scone Palace, on the site of the famous old Abbey of Scone, in which the Scottish kings were crowned, is 2; M. N. The Highland Rly., which extends 144 M. from Perth to Inverness, and 161 M. from Inverness to Wick, passes through some of the loveliest scenery in Scotland. Dunkeld (Athole Arms), on this line, 16 M. from Perth, has a rare old cathedral, and is close to Birnam Hill. On this line also is the Pass of Killie, crankie, a remarkable bit of glen scenery. The field where Dundee's Highland clans crushed William III.'s redcoats in 1689, is near by. Pitlochrie (Fisher's Hotel) and Blair Athole (Athole Arms ; Bridge of Tilt) are the best points for excursions. From Perth a trip can be made (22 M.; fares, 3s.6d, 2s. 6d, 1s. 9d.) to Dundee (Queen's Hotel ; Royal; Royal British; Crown), the third town in Scotland in # , | SCOTLAND. - 83 population (150,000), and the principal seat of the Brit- ish linen and jute trades. It is on the N. bank of the Tay, 12 M. from its mouth, and has a fine range of docks, covering 40 acres. See the Customs Offices, and the Royal Arch ; also the Esplanade, running from the Craig Pier to Magdalen Point, where the Tay Bridge had its N. terminus. A square tower, 150 ft. high, is all that remains of old St. Mary's Ch., founded by David, Earl of Huntingdom, on his return from the Crusades. The Royal Erchange, in Albert-Square, the Albert Institute, and the Free Library are worth visit- ing. Within easy reach of Dundee or Perth is Brechin, with interesting ruins of a cathedral and castle, and an ancient round tower; Montrose, a quaint little seaport, Once a royal burgh; Dunottar Castle, towards Aber- deen, a huge ruin on a rock in the sea; and Arbroath, a busy port, with fine ruins of an abbey founded in 1178. 15 M. S. (by rly.) is St. Andrews, a grave, meat, and picturesque port, with the oldest university in Scotland {j 1411), and the Madras College. It is “a perfect Nineveh of ecclesiastical ruins,” having the remains of a noble cathedral and priory, the myste- rious Tower of St. Regulus, part of the castle-palace ºf the primates of Scotland, a hº fragment of the Dominican monastery, and two fine old chs. From Dundee to Forfar (21 M.; fares, 3s. 8d., 2s. 9d., 1s. 9d.) is a pleasant journey. In the County Hall of Forfar is preserved the Witch’s Bridle, placed as a gag On the mouths of the miserable victims burned for witchcraft. Glamis Castle, 5 M. W. of Forfar, is a grand old baronial edifice, celebrated by Scott and hakespeare. From Forfar those who have the time may go along the coast (fares, 9s. 6d., 7s. 2d., 4s. 9d.) to Aberdeen (Imperial Hotel ; Palace ; Douglas's). Steamers to Leith and London; and N. to Wick, 84 ABERDEEN. — BALMORAL CASTLE. Thurso, Kirkwall (the Orkneys), and Lerwick (the Shetlands). , Aberdeen, “the Granite City,” is a finely built town of 90,000 inhab., on a cluster of hills on the Dee, at its mouth. The Dee is crossed by 4 hand. some bridges. Union-St., l M. long, with its vista of grayish white granite, is much admired. The ancient E. and W. Chs, contain some curious monuments, and the tomb of Beattie the poet. See the statue of Prince Albert; the handsome Gothic Town and County Build- ings ; the Cross, built in 1686, and covered with medal- lions of the Scottish monarchs; and the handsome Marischal College (founded in 1593). The docks cover 34 acres, and admit the largest ships. The Aberdeen clipper-ships are famous the world over. 1 M. N. lies Old Aberdeen, the site of the ancient King's College (1494), famous for exquisite wood-carving, in chapel; and the Cathedral of St. Machar. The Auld Brig o' Balgownie, celebrated by Byron in Don Juan, is ; M. N. The Deeside Rly. runs to Ballater (433. M.; ſares, 6s. 10d., 3s, 7%d.), whence coaches to Braemar (18 M.; fares, 5s., 4s.; to Balmoral, 2s. 6d., 2s.); and tourists who have visited Aberdeen may return this way. Between Ballater and Braemar stands Balmo- ral Castle, the favorite residence of Queen Victoria, It is in the Scottish baronial style, and consists of two blocks, connected by wings. The property was bought by Prince Albert, and comprises 10,000 acres of cleared land, with 30,000 acres of deer-forest. Brae. mar (Intercauld Arms : Fife Arms) is in the midst of a wildly picturesque country. From this point one may push on to Gem Tilt and Blair Athoſe, and come down through the Killiecrankie Pass to Perth. Trav- ellers who do not wish to visit Aberdeen, etc., can go from Dundee to Edinburgh by Burntisland. SCOTLAND. Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford. Many persons will content themselves, after the trip through the Trossachs, to Oban and down, with a trip from Glasgow to Stirling and Edinburgh. The direct routes between the two principal cities of Scotland are uninteresting. Time, 13–24 hrs. ; ſares, by express train, 6s. 6d., 5s. Distance, 48 M. (Stirling to Edin- burgh, 5s. 6d., 3s. 11d., 2s. 6d.). Edinburgh (Edinburgh Hotel, opposite Waverley Bridge; Royal, opposite the Scott Monument; hºind- sor ; Bedford ; Clarendon ; Caledonian ; , Rutland ; North British) is one of the most beautiful towns in Europe; and history and legend, uniting their charms, have made it especially fascinating to the traveller. It has 300,000 inhab. (suburbs included). It is situated in the N. part of Midlothian, nearly 2 M. from the Firth of Forth. A large, open valley divides it into the Old and New Towns, the one a kind of cpitome of the strange history of Scotland for the last 500 years; and the other a singularly handsome and well-built modern town. There is a striking resemblance be- tween Edinburgh and Athens; and it was from this fact that the Scottish capital acquired its title of the “Modern Athens.” A fire destroyed the town in 1537; and the oldest date on any private house is 1657. It was opposite the sloping ridge of rock, called Arthur's Seat (because King Arthur defeated the Saxons near by), that King Edwin, who gives his name to the city, founded his “burgh’’ in the 7th Century. . For 400 years the city formed part of the Northumbrian kingdom. Early in the llth century Lothian with its castle was added to the kingdom of the Scots. The city was long the favorite capital of the Stuarts. 86 EDINBURGH. Princes-St. is a terrace, separated from the Old Town by a broad valley of gardens. In the E. gar- dens stands the Scott Monument (built 1840–44), the niches of which are filled with figures of the great novelist’s heroes and heroines. Beneath the central canopy is a statue of Sir Walter Scott. A staircase leads to the top (200 ft.). Near by, stand bronze statues of Livingstone, Adam Black, and Prof. Wilson (Kit North). The gardens are divided into two sections by the Mound, on which stand the beauti- ful classic buildings of the Royal Institution and the National Gallery. The former contains the National Museum of Antiquities and the Statue Gallery (free Mon., Tues., Wed., and Sat., 10–4; 6d. Thurs. and Fri.). In the Museum, note John Knox's Pulpit from St. Giles's Church; the Solemn League and Covenant of 1638, signed by Montrose; the Blue Ribbon, worn by Prince Charles as Knight of the Garter; the Tor- turing Maiden ; and many Celtic and Roman antiqui- ties. The School of Design in this building has many pupils. The National Gallery (open daily, 10–4; 6d. fee on Thurs. and Fri.) is S. of the Royal Institu- tion. Here are good paintings by Van Dyck, Vero. nese, Zurbaran, Watteau, Teniers, Reynolds, Hogarth, Landseer, and Wilson. The annual exhibitions of the Royal Scottish Academy take place here from Feb. tc. May. Flaxman's statue of Burns is here. See in W. Princes-St. Gardens statue of Allan Ramsay, the Scot- tish pastoral poet. Nearly opposite the University Club is a statue of the famous physician, Sir James Simpson. In the W. churchyard is the grave of Thomas de Quincey. Near the Caledonian stat. is Castle Ter- face, on which stands the Synod Hall of the U. P. Church. Crossing the rly. from the W. garden you reach the base of the Castle Rock, and may ascend sii i SCOTLAND. by the Wellhouse Tower (a part of the first town wall, erected in 1450) to the uppermost walk. The Castle stands on a precipitous rock about 300 ft. above the valley, accessible only from the E. side. This was an impregnable stronghold before the days of gunpowder. To-day it is an infantry barrack for 1,200 men, and has an armory containing 30,000 stand of arms. The so-called Half-Moon Battery faces to the N. E. The main approaches to the castle are by High-St. and Castle Hill. See the Some Cross erected to Scottish soldiers who fell in the Indian mutiny. You enter the castle by crossing a drawbridge over a moat. See the State Prison, where many adherents of the Stuarts were confined. On the r. is the Argyll Battery; a little beyond, the Armory, the Prison, the Old Palace Yard, and the Crown Room (open daily, ll–3). Here are the Regalia, sometimes called the Honors of Scotland. They consist of a crown (Robert Bruce's, with which Charles II. was crowned), sceptre, sword of state (given by Pope Julius II. to James IV.), treasurer's rod of office, etc. Queen Mary’s Room is a small apartment in which Queen Mary gave birth to James VI. On the wall is a black-letter inscription, with the Scottish arms. On the Bomb Battery stands llons Meg, an enormous gun made at Moms, in Bel- gium, in 1476, of thick iron bars hooped together. From this battery see the whole of Edinburgh and en- virons. Here is Queen Margaret's Chapel, the oldest and highest part of the castle, built about 1050, and named for Malcolm Canmore's Saxon queen. The Castle has been captured by Henry II., Edward I., Bruce, Sir Wm. Douglas, and Cromwell; and repulsed Prince Charles's army. ... High-St. was once one of the finest in Europe; but its quaint old houses now compare but poorly with 88 EDINBURGH. those in the New Town. Note: Cannon-ball (fired from the castle in 1746) sticking in the gable of the old mansion of the Duke of Gordon; Ramsay Lane, on the 1., where lived Ramsay the poet; the General As- sembly Hall of the Church of Scotland. It was along the W. Bow that Montrose and Argyll were conveyed in the executioner's cart to the Grassmarket, the place of public execution. On the 1., James’s Court, where David Hume wrote part of his History of England, and where Boswell entertained Johnson in 1773, and Paoli. Burns lived in Baxter's Close, and Cromwell in Byre's Close. In Bank-St., the splendid Bank of Scotland; on the r. the County Hall, near the open space where stood the old Tolbooth, called The Heart of Midlothian. The Tolbooth was the House of Parliament, the principal Court of Justice, and the prison. Midway in High-St. is St. Giles's Ch., whose tower is terminated by a huge imperial crown, visible from afar. The original ch. was built before 1350, and was the cathedral of Edinburgh. Knox minis- tered here, and here the Solemn League and Covenant was signed. The Reformers cast out 40 images of saints, and divided the building by partitions, so that now several congregations worship therein. James WI., when about to ascend the English throne, here took leave of the citizens. In the Crypt are the tombs of Montrose and the Regent Murray. S. of St. Giles is Parliament Square. See, in the pavement here, a stone inscribed “I. K. 1572,” which marks the grave of John Knox. Also, an equestrian statue of Charles II. On the S., Parliament House, a modern Italian structure, now used as courts of justice. Parliament Hall, 122 ft. long and 49 wide, is very handsome. See statues and portraits of the Scottish jurists. Near by are the Advocates' Library and the Signet Library. SCOTLAND. 89 The first contains 300,000 vols., and a vast collection of MSS. See here the Mayence first edition of the Bible. On the N. E. side of St. Giles’s Ch. see the City Cross. Opposite is the Royal Evchange. Where High-St. is intersected by the N. and S. Bridges stands the Tron Church, named from a public trom, or weighing-machine. When the shopkeepers weighed falsely they were mailed up by the ears. Farther down is John Know's House (open Wed. and Sat., 10–4; 6d.). The interior is a labyrinth of small and low-ceiled rooms. On the outside is the inscription: “Loſe . God . aboue. al. and . your . nichtbovr. as . yi . self.” Here Knox lived, - 1559–72, — and here he died. From Knox's house to Holyrood, High-St., is called Canongate. On the l., Canongate Tolbooth, built in 1591. Back from the street, the Ch. of the Canons, built in 1688. In the Cemetery are buried Adam Smith, Dugald Stewart, and other celebrated Scots. On the 1., Queensberry House, an ancient ducal palace, where the poet Gay once dwelt; now used as a house of refuge. Holyrood Palace and Abbey was founded by King David I., who is said to have been saved from the horns, of a stag, driven to bay near this spot, by a luminous cross in the sky. The Holy Rood, which David intended to deposit there, was a fragment of the True Cross. The palace (fee, 6d. ; free on Sat.) was begun by Charles IV., and burned by the English in 1544, and again by Cromwell’s soldiers in 1650. The most interesting section is Queen Mary's Apartments, entered by a door on the N. side of the inner court. The rooms on the first floor were occupied by Darnley. In the little boudoir Rizzio was assassinated while at Supper with Mary, March 9, 1566, by Darnley, Ruth- Ven, and others. The guides show some dark stains 90 EDINBURGH. on the floor, said to be Rizzio's blood. The present palace was rebuilt in the reign of Charles II. The picture-gallery is hung with lll, hypothetical portraits of Scottish kings. The Chapel Royal is a beautiful but ruinous fragment of the old Abbey, founded by I)avid. Charles I. was crowned hero in 1633. In the vaults are buried David II., James II., James W. and his Queen, and Lord Darnley. Just S. of Holyrood is the Queen's Park. Arthur's Seat, 822 ft. high, is behind lilolyrood. A good road, the Queen's Drive, runs round it. The ascent may be made from Holy- rood by crossing the Park, or y following the drive to Dunsappie Loch, and then up from that point. On the hill are the ruins of St. Anthony's Chapel. See, near the park-keeper's lodge at St. Leonard's Hill, the cottage of “Jeannie Deans.” . The historic Cowgate, built in 1500, is now one of the dirtiest lanes in the Old Town. It ends in the Grassmarket, near the centre of which is the Corn Erehange. At the head of the Cowgate stands the house in which Lord Brougham was born; and in the ch.-yard of Greyfriars are the tombs of the historian Iłobertson, Allan Ramsay, and other famous men. Heriod's Hospital, a magnificent turreted quadrangle (built by Inigo Jones, 1628–50), is worth a visit. The University (session Nov.-April), at the S. end of S. Bridge, was founded in 1582 by James VI. It has one of the best medical schools in Europe. There are about 2,000 students. Library, 150,000 vols. In Drummond-St., opposite the College, stood Darnley’s house, where he was blown up in 1567. Near the head of College Hºynd stood the house in which Walter Scott was born. It was pulled down in 1871. Be- hind the University is the Edinburgh Museum of Science and Art. SCOTLAND. 91 Crossing the mound into the New Town, one finds the streets as wide and handsome as in the Old they are marrow and ugly. Go up Calton Hill, at the E. end of Princes-St., and visit Nelson's Monument (fee, 3d.); good view from the top. On this hill is the National Monument to the Scottish soldiers who fell in the Peninsular and Waterloo campaigns, – an unſin- ished building, copied after the Temple of Minerva in Athens; also, the Observatory; and the Du/ald-Stew- art Monument, copied from that of Lysicrates at Athens. Just beyond is Playfair's monument. At the base of the hill is the Royal High School, an adaptation of the Temple of Theseus at Athens. To the S. is Burns's Monument, erected in 1830. At the corner of the N. Bridge, the Post-Office. In the Reyistry Office, on the r. at the end of Princes-St., are autograph letters of Queen Mary, etc. See Waverley Bridge. Other Objects of Interest. — The Royal Bank, in St. Andrew’s-Square; the bronze statues of Pitt and George IV., by Chantrey; St. Andrew’s Ch. ; statue to Chalmers, the Scottish divine; the Scottish Național Memorial, erected in 1878, bas-reliefs illustrative of the Prince Consort’s career; the Edinburgh Philosophical Institution, in Queen-St. ; the stately Episcopal Cathe- dral of St. Mary, built by Sir Gilbert Scott; the Dean Bridge, spanning the Water of Leith, 106 ft. high; the Dean Cemetery, where Lords Jeffrey, Cockburn, Ru- therford, and Murray, and Prof. Wilson are buried; the Fettes College, at the Grange; the S. Cemetery, where Hugh Miller, Dr. Chalmers, and Dr. Guthrie are bur- ied; the Royal Bank Garden; the Warriston Cemetery, Where Alexander Smith the poet is buried. Leith (50,000 inhab.), the port of Edinburgh, is 3 I. N., reached by horse-cars and steam-cars : trains every # hr. There are 2 piers, stretching 3,000 ft. 92 LEITH. — ROSLIN CHAPEL. into the Firth of Forth. Walk down one, take ferry across to the other, and come back on it. Mary, Queen of Scots, had a brilliant reception on landing here from Calais, in 1561. Huge ship-building yards, glass-works, and flour-mills here. Large trade in corn and timber with Baltic ports. The Albert Dock covers 14 acres. Leith Fort was built by Cromwell. W. of Leith is Newhaven (Peacock Inn; celebrated for fish dinners, 2s. 6d.). Fishwives remarkable here for their costumes, and noted for their virtue. Excursions from Edinburgh. —To Granton Pier, 2 M., stopping to visit the Royal Botanic Gardens (ad- mission free). Good view of Edinburgh. Magnificent łº built by the Duke of Buccleuch. At Granton the ºnglish troops that invaded Scotland in 1544 were landed. From the pier, steam ferry to Burntisland in Fife. — To Trinity, good bathing. — To Hawthornden and Roslin Chapel. Train to Hawthornden stat. ; fares, 1s., 10d., 8d. This charming mansion, “grafted on an old fortified Peel tower,” was built by the poet Drummond, born in 1585; and here Ben Jonson came to visit him, walking all the way from London. Under the castle are caves, inhabited by the natives before huts were known. Cross the Esk and go along the romantic glen to Roslin (1; M.), getting a fine view of the castle and chapel, as you leave the ravine. Battle fought in 1303 on the Moor near by. Roslin Chapel is the choir of an unfinished ch., founded in 1446. Fergusson thinks “the chapel owes its beauty entirely to the profusion of its decorations.” The castle, on a mound below, is a mere ruin. The Valley of the Esk is lovely. . If you go back to Edinburgh by road, you can pass by Morningside, and see the stone on which James I. fixed his standard before he set out for Flodden Field. — Dalkeith Castle, Newbattle Abbey, Dalhousie SCOTLAND. 93 Castlé, Borthwick Castle, Crichton Castle, all on or near the Esk, are well worth visiting. All Americans should visit Melrose, Abbotsford, and Dryburgh. Take express train (Pullman car attached) to Melrose stat. (37. M.; 1 hr. ; fares, 7s. 5d., 5s. 7d., 3s. 1d.). Hotels at Melrose : George : Abbey; King's Arms. Melrose Abbey was founded by David I. in 1126, and completed in 1146. The monks who dwelt there were among the first Cister- cians in Scotland. The Abbey was destroyed by Ed- ward II. in 1322, but rebuilt later under the patronage of King Robert Bruce. The architecture is Second Poinſed, mingled with Flamboyant. The present struc- ture dates from about 1375. The Duke of Buccleuch now owns the Abbey. Entire length of edifice, 258 ft.; breadth of transepts, 137 ft. The Choir, the Tran- septs, the Nave, entered by a wooden gate at the W. end, and the S. Aisle, are in best preservation. The Abbey forms a Latin cross, with a square tower, 84 ft. high, in the centre. Beside the high altar, under the noted E. Window, lies Alexander II.; and here the heart of Robert Bruce is deposited. The tomb of the wizard, Michael Scott, is in the Aisle of St. Mary. Note the delicate chiselling of the outer side of the doorway leading into the cloisters. Over the S. door (outside) is a beautiful sculptured canopy, and above it a noble window. Above the E. window are figures, supposed to be David I. and his queen. Under the fifth window is Sir David Brewster's tomb. Moonlight effects quite equal to Sir Walter's enthusiastic descrip- tion. Some prefer to go directly from Melrose to Abbotsford, and to see the Abbey on the return. A one-horse carriage to and from Abbotsford (3 M.) costs 6s. 6d. ; double team, 8s. 6d. The walk is a pleasant One. Persons in haste can leave Edinburgh at 10.30 --wrº-ºr 94 ABBOTSFORD. — DRYBURGH ABBEY. A.M.; reach Melrose in 1 hr. ; drive over to Abbots- ford, see it, and return, in 2 hrs. ; give # hr. to Mel- rose Abbey; lunch at one of the hotels near by ; then take carriage to Dryburgh Abbey, see it, and return to Melrose by way of Bemerside Hill, in 25 hrs.; after which they can take an evening train S. Abbotsford (admission, 1s.) was long the home of the “Great Enchanter of the North.” The author's study is the most interesting room. There the old writing-table, the plain leathern arm-chair, the reference books, seem to indicate that Sir Walter has but just left them. The Library (20,000 vols.) contains a bust of Scott, by Chantrey, and many miniatures. The roof is of carved oak, designed from models taken from Roslin Chapel. The Drawing-room, where Sir Walter died, and the little octagonal dressing-room contain many precious relics. The Armory has a fine collection of Scotch weapons. Not far away is the Chiefswood Cottage, where the Lockharts dwelt. “Thomas the Rhymer” once lived in the neighborhood. 4 In Dryburgh Abbey (reached as above, or by rail from Melrose to Newtown St. Boswell’s, and then 1+ M. across country) Scott was buried (in 1832). His tomb is in the beautiful St. Mary's Aisle, and on either side are the tombs of his wife and eldest son. Lock- hart also lies there. The Abbey (admission, 4d.) was founded in 1150 hy. Hugh de Moreville, and destroyed, like Melrose, by Edward I. The Chapter-House is still entire. On a hill near by is an effigy of Wallace, in red sandstone. * You can now proceed S. Stop at Durham and York. Edinburgh to London (9 hrs), 57.s. 6d., 44s. 9d., 32s. 8d.: Melrose to Durham, 19s. 4d., 14s. 10d., 8s. 11%d.; Melrose to York, 27s. 2d., 20s. 8d., 14s. 234:: Edinburgh to York, 31s.,24s. Pullman sleeping-ear, 8s. ENGLAND. 95 E IN G. T. A. N. D. Newcastle, Durham, and York. Newgastrº-ron-ºxn E (Station Hotel; Nevil/e) is a place of great industrial interest. It was Pons Aélii, the second stat. on the Roman wall. Up to the Conquest it was called Monkchester. New- castle is on 3 hills, on the Tyne, 9; M. from its mouth. The Castle-keep remains, with splendid great hall, ora- tory, king's chamber, and museum of Roman antiqui- ties. See St. Nicholas's Ch. (14th century), with a fine spire and rare old monuments; St. Andrew's, very ancient; the Library; the Royal Arcade; and Stephen- son’s High Level Bridge. Elswick, 2 M. out, is the seat of Sir Wm. Armstrong's immense ordnance works. Tynemouth has a beautiful ruined Priory. Newcastle is enterprising, but grimy; “the dimmest and smoki- est place I ever saw,” says Hawthorne. Much iron ship-building on the river. Population, with suburbs, 176,000. Durham (County Hofel ; Three Tums), 15 M. from Newcastle, stands on a hill almost surrounded by the river Wear, and is noteworthy for its Cathedral and Castle. The latter was built by William the Conqueror, and is the seat of an University. The Cathedral crowns the eminence on which Durham is built. It was founded in 1093, replacing an older ch. “We paused upon the bridge, and admired and wondered at the beauty and glory of the scene, with those vast ancient towers rising out of the green shade, and looking as if they were based upon it. As I saw it then, it was grand, vener- able, and sweet, all at once; and I never saw so lovely and 96 DURHAM. magnificent a scene, nor, being content with this, do I wish to see a better.” — HAWTHoRNE. King's English Cathedrals speaks of the “view of the castle walls, and the towers of the enormous ch. rising close beside it, and sheer with the face of the cliff; ” and, indeed, there are few bits of English scen- ery lovelier than those in old Durham on the Wear (“This river Wear, with its sylvan wildness, and yet so sweet and placable, is the best of all little rivers,” says Hawthorne); or few chs, more majestic in the midst of a charming landscape. It contains the remains of the Venerable Bede (see some of his MSS. in the Cathedral library); those of St. Cuthbert, unearthed in 1827; and of Ralph, Lord Neville, who commanded at Ne- ville's Cross. See The Galilee, a splendid chapel; the E. Transept, or Chapel of the Nine Altars; the magnifi- cent Norman Wave, with its unrivalled vista; the Chap- ter-House, built 1133–43; the Te-Deum Window ; the Altar Screen, dating from 1380; the Cloisters; the Abbey Gateway; etc. . Choral services twice daily. Good views of the Cathedral from the Framwellgate Bridge and the rly. stat. King thinks that the cathe- drals at Lincoln and Ely alone can be compared with this for majesty and beauty. From St. Giles's Ch.- yard, from the Prior's Path, and from Wine Trees, are excellent views. The Castle (fee, ls.) was long the residence of the Bishops of the Palatinate. See the Keep, now occupied by students; the beautiful Nor- man Gallery; the Black Staircase; the Great Hall, with its many pictures; the tapestry in Bishop Tunstall's Gallery; and the very curious old Chapel. Pleasant walks abound. Excursions to Finchale Priory (3% M.), dating from 1496, and in a lovely vale beyond the Kepyer Woods; to Maiden Castle, a fortress ascribed to the Romans, and the Moated Grange ; to Neville's ENGLAND. 97 Cross, commemorating the capture of David II. by Neville in 1346; to Chester-le-Street, 6 M., with a noble ch. built 1286, near which is Lumley Castle (Lord Scarborough), with its famous Great Hall and Ball-Room (time of Edward I.), and Lambton Castle (Earl of Durham). From Durham you may proceed directly to York (63 M.; fares, 8s. 10d., 7s. 5d., 5s. 6d.). But we recommend you to go (fares, 7s. 2d., 6s., 4s. 5d.) to Ripon (Unicorn Hotel; Crown), a pretty city on the river Ure. It has been an ecclesiastical site for 12 centuries. The Cathedral was begun in 1154, roughly used by the Scots in the Border wars, fell into ruin, and was rebuilt in the 16th century. It was restored by Sir G. Scott in 1862–72. The most striking point of view is the W. Front. The nave has a lofty clere- story, and an oak roof with carved bosses, and some interesting old stained glass. The library is in the old Lady Chapel, above the chapter-house and vestry. The Choir Screen is a splendid pile of tabernacle-work. In the W. Choir Hall was formerly placed the Shrine of St. Wilfrid. Ripon retains many odd memorials of the past. In High-St. is St. Anne's Hospital, founded in Edward IV.'s reign. In Stamergate, chapel of Roman date. See the Hospital of St. Mary Magdalene for Lepers, founded 1140. Fountains Abbey, 3 M. W., within the grounds of Studley Royal (Marquess of Ripon), was established in 1132. The ruins cover more than 2 acres; and when the abbey was complete it occupied 12 acres. Note almost perfect ch. on 1. From the N. transept rises a tower. There is also a great cloister, and a beautiful vaulted gallery, 300 ft. long. The Chapter-House has singular aisles, with double row of columns. Here are many tombs of the abbots. See, also, the Reſectory, the Vaulted 7 98 HARROGATE. — YORK. Kitchen, the Frater House. Returning to Ripon, take train to York (23 M.). On the way is Harrogate (Prospect Hofel ; Crown ; Prince of Wales), one of the most charming of English watering-places. York (Station Hofel, large and convenient ; Black Swan ; Crown ; York), a city of 50,000 inhab., 191 M. from London (fares, 27s. 6d., 21s. 3d., 15s. 8d.). York is said to have been founded 983 years B.c. In 150 A.D. it was a great Roman station, bearing the name Eboracum, with an imperial palace. Here the Emperor Severus lived. Here also Constantine the Great was born, in 272; and here his father, Con- stantius, died, in 307. In the Saxon era York was noted for the baptism of Edwin of Northumbria by Paulinus; and afterwards became the favorite capital of the Danes, whose chief was defeated by Harold in 1066. The visitor should first see the City Walls, 23 M. around, interrupted here and there by the rivers. These walls were built chiefly in Edward III.'s time, but have been often restored since. During the siege by the Parliamentary forces they suffered very much. On the N. and S. W. they follow the old line of the Roman wall. See Micklegate Bar, a noble archway of Decorated date, flanked by terraces with loopholes and battlements, and with figures of men-at-arms. Here the skulls of rebels to the Crown were formerly affixed. Close by, St. Mary’s Nunnery. At Skeldergate, cross the Ouse by bridge. Beyond the ferry, the Bail Hill, on which William I. built his castle; Malmgate and Momkgate ; an interesting Worman Bar, with Decorated upper story; and at the Thirsk Road one may descend close to the Cathedral, or York Minster, which Hawthorne called “the most wonderful work that ever came from the hands of ENGLAND. men.” A wooden edifice was built here by Paulinus, and replaced by a stone basilica, begun by Edwin (in 626). The first Norman bishop erected a new ch. which was added to within the next 4 centuries. In 1360–1400 the old Norman choir was entirely replaced by the present one. The Minster was reconsecrated, July 3, 1472. The total length is 551 ft.; breadth of nave, 104 ft. ; of transepts, 223 ft. Height of central tower. 216 ft. The J/. Front consists of a central façade, flanked by two towers (201 ft.). The front, with its 3 N. towers, is Decorated. The buttresses of the towers are very massive. Between them and the portal are niches filled with figures of saints. The M. Transept is noticeable for its beautiful Five Sisters’ Window, below which is an Early English arcade. The octagonal chapter-house, with superb 14th-century windows (“the richest I ever saw or imagined ; with all their brilliancy, they were soft as rose-leaves,” said Hawthorne), is the finest in England. Imposing view of the choir and central tower. Magnificent E. win- dow, and row of sculptured figures underneath the sill. The S. Transept is fine Early English ; beautiful rose window here. The nave aisles are of unusual width. Beautiful view from the aisle to the end of the choir. Aisles, 486 ft. The great W. Window, restored in 1747, arouses the enthusiasm of archaeologists, who compare it for beauty and variety with the E. window at Carlisle. The quantity and exquisite beauty of the stained glass will remind the old traveller of some of the Spanish churches. This glass miraculously escaped damage when Fairfax took the town in 1644. The Puritans broke up most of the monuments and brasses. Among wall monuments, note those of Archbishop Sterne, the Earl of Stafford (son of him who was beheaded), Archbishop Scrope, – mentioned in Shakespeare's Henry IV., - and Arch- YORK MINSTER. lam. Visitors should see the nave in the the body of the church is beautifully e Central Tower is remarkable for its mas- s. The Lantern Tower, finished in the 15th cen- s a vaulted roof, 180 ft. from the ground. The nsept has an exquisite series of lancet windows, fith red glass. The chapter-house dates from th century. “I never saw a piece of human cture so beautiful,” said Hawthorne. Doorway efoiled arches with a shaft, having a niche, in is a figure of the Virgin and the Child. Notice ld oak door, covered with scrolled iron-work. The stone Roodscreen, separating the choir from the , is in 15 compartments, each containing a statue king of England down to Henry VI. The choir is st height and width, and Hawthorne said that its and arches are so perfect that “their beauty a gleam around them.” Its height is 102 ft.; 99 ft. The stained glass in the clere-story is the 14th century, partly later; as in the choir he presbytery. The great E. Window is the n England that retains its original glazing. cted in 1405–8, and forms a complete epitome . The Crypt may be visited from either the aisle. See first the Presbytery and the l. The Westry, Record Room, Treasury, (containing many MSS.), may be seen if Horn of Ulphus, laid on the altar by one of Yorkshire as a sign that he gave certain hurch, is in the vestry. Hawthorne says al: “It seems to have come down from g an awful majesty and sweetness with light and aspiring, with all its vast pointed arches, that one would hard hould ascend back to heaven again ity.” §: ... 3. ly º by ENGLAND. 101 Other Objects of Interest. —Within the grounds of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society, on the Ouse (fee, ls.), is St. Mary’s Abbey, the chief foundation in York- shire after the Conquest. After the dissolution, a part was changed into a royal palace. See the ruins of St. Leonard's Hospital, founded by Athelstan, and rebuilt by Stephen; and, beyond the Hospital, the Multangular Tower, Roman below and mediaeval above. Here are many stone coffins from the Roman cemetery. Near this is St. Olave's Ch., in the graveyard of which Etty the painter lies buried. Near the river is the Museum of Antiquities, with very interesting collections. The Museum.of the Philosophical Society contains a valuable geological exhibit. — The Castle, now a prison, is a massive edifice in which occurred many events in the early history of York. It was here that the massacre of the Jews by a body of nobles and citizens, indignant at the favors shown to the Hebrews by Henry II., took place in the reign of Richard I. Over the gateway is a small Early English chapel. —All Saints' Ch., in North- St., is of great age, and contains Roman masonry and rich stained glass. See Holy Trinity Ch., Kings Court, St. Crux Pavement, where the Earl of Northumberland, beheaded in 1572, is buried. St. Helens, Stonegate, is dedicated to the mother of Constantine. See also St. Lawrence, outside Walmgate Bar; St. Mary the Younger, Bishop Hill; and St. Michael’s, Spurrier Gate. At the latter the ringing of the curfew bell is still kept up. The principal public buildings are: The Mansion House; the Guildhall, with nave and aisles separated by oak pillars, and rich stained windows; Merchants' Hall, in Fossgate; and St. William’s Col. !ege, founded in 1460. Hawthorne admired York’s “old chs., gnawed like a bone by the tooth of Time.” Eccursions from York. — To Scarborough (Crown * 102 WHITBY. — HULL. — LEEDS. i&xstºws Hotel; Grand; Alexandra : Prince of Wales ; Royal, Brunswick); time, 13–2 hrs. ; fares, 5s. 7d., 4s. 8d., 3s. 5;d. This is a fashionable seashore resort. On a promontory are the ruins of an ancient Norman castle. The Spa, the Promenade (6d.), the Aquarium, and Oliver's Mount (superb view), are reached by the Cliff Bridge. View from the Castle Rock very fine. Near the castle is the venerable Ch. of St. Mary. (Fares from London, 35s., 26s. 11d., 19s. 6d.) — To Whitby (Royal Hotel ; Crown ; Angel), 56; M. ; fares, 7s. 6d., 6s. 8d., 4s. 8d. Whitby is a summer resort, with superb sea-views. Museum and Library on the W. pier. Many shops for the sale, of jet. Charming drives to Robin Hood's Bay, Mulgrave Castle, and along the Esk dales, Scott's Marmion has made this region classic. Capt. Cook’s circum- navigating ships were built at Whitby. Here are the venerable ruins of Whitby Abbey, where Hilda ruled, 657–80, and Caedmon paraphrased the Bible in Saxon verse. — To Beverley (Beverley Arms), dating from the 8th century. Beverley Minster merits close study, with its superb Percy Shrine, rich tabernacle-work, Lady Chapel, and high-towered fronts. St. Mary's Ch. is a splendid cruciform building, with many sculptures. 8 M. distant (fares from York, 5s. 7d., 4s. 8d., 3s.5%d.) is Hull (Royal Hotel; Victoria; Minerva), a city of 124,000 inhab., ranking as a seaport next to London and Liverpool. See the Holy Trinity Ch. , the Town Hall ; the Wilberforce Column (72 ft.); St. Mary's Ch. , the Trinity House, established 1369; the ancient High-St. , the Merchants' Ecchange; and the Royal Institution. — To Leeds (Queen's Hotel; Albion, Griffin; W. Riding), the chief town in Yorkshire, with 260,000 inhab. It is 32 M. from York (fares, 3s.6d., 2s. 11d., 2s. 1;d.). Coal and iron abound on all sides. ENGLAND. 103 Reclus calls Leeds “first in the world in the woollen business.” The public buildings are magnificent. The Town Hall has a tower, 225 ft. high, and 4 rich Corin- thian façades. The Royal Erchange, the Mired-Cloth Hall, the White-Cloth Hall (built in 1775), the Wew Infirmary, are all on a generous plan. Near Leeds is Kirkstall Abbey, beautiful ruins of ch., cloisters, and chapter-house; Temple Newsam, rich in paintings; and Weetwood, noted for idyllic scenery. From Leeds it is 8 M. (time, hr.; fares, 1s. 2d., 1s., 9d.) to Brad- ford (Victoria Hotel ; Alexandra), world-famous for its woollens and worsted yarns. The town (210,000 inhab.) is prettily situated in a narrow wale. The Town Hall, of mediaeval design, was erected in 1873, and has a campanile, and a set of chimes, said to be superior to those of Bruges, in Belgium. Saltaire, the model town built by Sir Titus Salt, is 4 M. distant. The factory covers 12 acres, and is 6 stories high. Rly. hence (7–8 M.) to Kei/hley Junction, whence a branch line conducts (4 M.) to Haworth (Black Bull Inn). The village has been much altered since the time of the Brontés. The parsonage, where lived from 1820 to 1860 the father of the marvellous girls who wrote Shirley, Jane Eyre, etc., has been much changed. All the Brontë family, except Anne, are buried at Haworth. There is a tablet to their memory in the ch.; and Char- lotte's signature may be seen on the register. Many Americans make pilgrimages to this rude moorland country, hallowed by the manifestations of genius. Manchester, Lincoln, Derby, etc. We recommend the tourist to return to Leeds, and go thence to Manchester. 200 trains pass daily be- tween these two cities (42; M.; fares, 7s., 5s. 3d., 104 MANCHESTER. 3s. 9d.). On the way you traverse the Morley tunnel (2 M. long); and Huddersfield (Queen's Hotel; George), a handsome manufacturing town of 75,000 inhab. Near by is Kirklees Hall, on the site of the nunnery where, if we may believe the old ballads, Robin Hood was bled to death by a nun, and where the cele- brated outlaw's grave is shown. Stanedge Tunnel (3 M. long) comes next. Near Ashton-under-Lyne are 100 cotton-mills. Beyond Ashton the scenery is extremely beautiful. Manchester (Queen’s Hotel; Brunswick; Palaţine ; Albion ; Trepelyan; Royal; Waverley) and Salford are connected by numerous bridges. The population numbers nearly 600,000; and the two towns cover 9 square M. Reclus says: “Manchester was the Mancu- nium of the Romans, and in the 14th century was already known for its manufactures of stuffs, established by Flemish artisans after the religious wars. In our time it is the ‘cotton metropolis,’ and its leading business men are cotton lords.” The Gothic Cathedral (1422) was restored in 1845–68. The celebrated New Free Trade Hall stands in Peter-St., near the scene of the “Peterloo Massacre.” The large hall, in which Cobden and Bright have made many famous speeches, can hold 7,000 persons. The New Town Hall, the Royal Erchange, the Corn Erchange, are imposing modern structures. In front of the Royal Infirmary, in Piccadilly, are bronze statues of the Duke of Wellington, Sir Robert Peel, Watt, and Dalton (the chemist). Chetham College has a fine library. Owen's College, in Oxford-St., is an elegant structure. In the Grammar School De Quincey received his early edu- cation. See the Assize Courts, good example of Gothic architecture; the vast County Jail; the Museum of Natural History; the Albert Memorial. ENGLAND. 105 Manchester is reached from London by the Midland Rly. (189 M.; 5 hrs. ; fares, 24.s. 6d., 20s., and 15s. 5%d.), which traverses a delicious country. It is 41 M. (fares, 7s.6d., 4s. 7d., 3s. 5d.) hence to Sheffield (Royal Hotel ; , Pictoria ; Angel ; King’s Head), the headquarters of the steel and cutlery trade of England (with suburbs, 239,941 inhab.). Sheffield is shrouded in smoke, so that one scarcely gets a glimpse of its really fine situation on a chain of hills. St. Peter’s Ch., with the Shrewsbury Chapel; the Manor House, restored by the Duke of Norfolk; the Shrewsbury Hospital; the statue of Elliott, the Corn-Law Rhymer; and the Cutlers' Hall, are the principal sights. From Sheffield it is 18 M. (fares, 2s. 9d., 2s. 2d., 1s. 6d.) to Doncaster (Angel Hotel ; Reindeer ; Salutation), a clean and well-built town, of Roman origin, on the Don ; noted for its fine Ch. of St. George, and for the famous St. Leger race, established in 1778. Near by is the grand old Conisborough Castle, described in Ivanhoe. It is 39 M. (fares, 5s. 11d., 4s. 3d., 3s. 1%d.) hence to the ancient cathedral-town of Lincoln (Great Northern Railway Hotel ; Sara- cen's Head; Spread Eagle), which was at the time of the Norman Conquest one of the chief British cities. Under the Roman domination it had been one of the best of their fortified camps. In 1141 King Stephen Was taken prisoner, after a battle at Lincoln by i. Earl of Gloucester. There the Dauphin's party was overthrown by the Earl of Pembroke, in Henry III.'s minority. The city was stormed by the Parliamentary army in 1644. The Cathedral stands on the summit of a hill, whence it can be seen for many miles around. It was founded in 1075, by Bishop Remigius of Fe- 9amp; º. by an earthquake, about 1200; and rebuilt by Bishop Hugh of Avalon, 1220–60, and dedi- 106 LINCOLN. — BOSTON. cated to the Virgin. The towers on the splendid W. front command a view down the vale of the Witham, as far as Boston. The length is 482 ft. ; width of W. front, 174 ft. ; height of central tower, 260 ft. Note the Norman font of Remigius; the Galilee Porch; the choir, with wonderful wood-carving and stone-vaulting; the Easter Sepulchre; the delicately carved screens; the lady chapel. The big bell weighs 5% tons. See the Cloisters, on the N. side, and their Roman pave- ment. In the Library are many Roman antiquities. Monuments to Catherine, wife of John of Gaunt, and Joan, Countess of Westmoreland, and of many old bishops and deans. The greater part of the ch. is Early English; but part of the W. front is Norman. The 13th century produced nothing finer than the rose- window in the N. transept. In the S. transept there is also a fine rose-window. See the sculptured angels in the Presbytery, or Angel Choir. Visit the ivy-clad ruins of the Bishop's Palace, near (and giving a grand view of) the Cathedral; the Castle, erected by William the Conqueror in 1086 (now a jail); the Newport, a splendid Roman ruin, and fragments of the Roman wall; John of Gaunt’s Palace; the Guildhall ; and the fine old Stonebow gate. Boston (Peacock Hotel) is 1–1; hrs. S. E. of Lin- coln, and has 13,000 inhab., many antiquities, and some commerce. It is 5 M. from the sea. It was called Botolph's Town from the saint who founded a monastery here, in 654. St. Botolph's Ch., built 1309, is the largest British parish ch. without aisles, and is 291 ft. long and 99 ft. wide, with a splendid tower, 291 ft. high, visible from afar over the sea and the fens. 32 M. by rly, from Boston is Peterborough. Go next from Lincolm to Nottingham. Just outside of Lincoln, curious Ch. of Bracebridge All Saints. At ENGLANI). 107 Newark (Clinton Arms ; Ram ; Saracen's Head) is St. Mary Magdalene, a splendid old ch., with fine brasses, stained windows, and a tall tower, sustaining statues of the Apostles; also a venerable ruined Castle, built in the reign of Stephen, and often besieged. Herein died King John, Belvoir Castle, the palace of the Duke of Rutland, is near by. Newark was once fa- mous for its inns, and the Saracen's Head existed in the time of Edward III. Sir Walter Scott makes Jeannie Deans rest there on her way from Midlothian to London. Just before reaching Nottingham, the train traverses the grounds of Colwick Hall, where Byron’s “Mary Chaworth” lived. Nottingham (Wellington Hotel ; Victoria, opposite station; Maypole ; George, in the town) stands on a rocky eminence N. of the river Trent. It is the chief place for the making of lace and hosiery in England (150,000 inhab.). The old town is a labyrinth of nar- row and crooked streets. The Market-Place is an open area of 5% acres, with the Erchange at its E. end. See the N. and S. Parades ; Mortimer’s Hole, a strange ex- cavation from the castle to the river; Standard Hill, where King Charles I. unfurled for the first time the royal flag in 1642; the Rock Holes ; the Park; and Swinton Hermitage. St. Mary’s Ch. is a grand old cruciform building. This was a Danish town, and William I. erected a castle here, which was often be- sieged. The Castle, on the same lofty rock of red Sandstone, was destroyed by the mob in 1831. It has been restored, and is occupied by the Midland Counties Art Museum. Splendid view over the Vale of Trent, to Belvoir Castle. The country round about is filled with memorials of Byron. Newstead Abbey, which he inherited when it was almost in ruins, is ll M. N. W. Go by rail to Linby stat., 9; M., and walk (l; M.) to 108 DERBY. the house, which is not usually shown. An Augus- tinian abbey was founded here by Henry II. in 1170, and fell to Sir John Byron in 1540. The grounds and forest are beautiful. The residence has been carefully restored. The ruined ch., “a glorious remnant of the Gothic pile,” and the cloister, with a fountain in its centre, are very fine; the poet’s mean bedroom is kept as he left it. Many beautiful and art-enriched halls are shown. On the lawn is the monument to Boatswain, Byron's dog. In front of the abbey is the lake, so often mentioned in the poems. Here you are on the '. of Sherwood Forest, with legends of Robin Hood at every turn. Robin Hood's Hill and Fountain Dale are near Newstead Ab- bey. , 3 M. off is Annesley Old Hall, containing the “antique oratory” mentioned in Byron’s “The Dream.” Hucknall Ch., where Lord Byron, his mother, and his only daughter are buried, is 1 M. from Linby. Re- turning to Nottingham, spend the night there, and take early train (15%. M.: 1s. 9d., 1s. 6d.) to Derby (Midland Hotel, close to stat ; Royal, in the town); and thence to Rowsley (fares, 2s. 11d., ls. 9%d). Derby was the Roman stat. Derventio, and "here Richardson the novelist was born. The fine Derby spar is found near by. There are rare old monuments in the Cavendish chapel of All Saints' Ch. Derby is the entrance to that delightful region known as The Peak of Derbyshire. Those who do not wish to make detours can reach Derby or Rowsley, from Liver- pool and Manchester, by the Midland Line. The Peak is a picturesque district, containing “ that beautiful scenery of the millstone grit and mt, limestone for which the º is so pre-eminent. This scenic in- terest, however, does not arise so much from the ele- vation of the hills as from their romantic grouping and ENGLAND. 109 the bold and varied arrangement of the dales and cloughs, which offer exquisite landscape pictures.” Reach Towsley at 9 A.M., and (leaving your baggage — ex- cept umbrella and waterproof–in the stat. cloak-room) make a bargain with a driver, and go at once to Had- don Hall, 1% M. (1 person, 2s. 6d. ; 2–3 persons, ls. each. Bargain for the same driver to take you both to Haddon and Chatsworth. If he waits, you must make special terms). Haddon Hall, on a hill E. of the Wye, which is crossed by a picturesque bridge, is an ancient seat of the Dukes of Rutland. There §. Sir George Vernon (1545), whose º; hospitality procured him the title of “King of the Peak; ” thence fair Dorothy Vernon eloped to marry her lover, Sir John Manners; and there, in the State Bedchamber, are the famous tapestries illustrating AEsop's Fables, woven at the Gobelins in Paris. Visitors are shown the Chaplain's Room, the Chapel, the Banqueting-Hall, the Dining-Room, with the inscription, “Drede God and honor the Kyng,” over the fireplace; the Drawing- Room, the State and Earl’s Bedchambers, and Peveril's Tower. Small fee to servant. Chatsworth (3 M. from Rowsley; 4 M. from Bake- well stat.) is the finest mansion in England. It is a favorite residence of the Duke of Devonshire, and is called the “Palace of the Peak.” The old Hall was used as a fortress in the Civil War, both by forces of King and Parliament. The present S. front dates from 1687; the E. side, great hall, and staircase, from 1690; the N. front, from 1704. See the Conservatory, Great Hall (67 × 20 ft.), Chapel, Grand Drawing-Room, Libraries, Dining-Room (58 x 30 ft.), Sculpture Gal- lery (103 × 30 ft.), Orangery, Sketch Gallery (original drawings by Angelo, Raphael, Dürer, Titian, etc.), State Apartments, Gallery of Paintings (Titian, Salvator 1 10 MATLOCK BATH. — BAKEWELL. Rosa, Tintoretto, Murillo, Holbein, etc.), State Draw- ing-Room. Two of the state rooms are called those of Mary, Queen of Scots, because she was long a prisoner there. The Arboretum, Conservatory, and Gardens (6d. to gardener) should be seen. The French Garden comes first, then the Camellia and Orchid Houses ; next a copper willow-tree; then the vast Conservatory (277 X 123 ft.). See the Emperor Fountain, and go out by the Italian garden. The Old Hunting Tower and Queen Mary's Bower deserve notice. Chatsworth is open daily, 11–5 (Sat. 11–1). Queer old village of Edensor (Chatsworth Hotel, good), outside Park gates. Returning to Rowsley, lunch at the Peacock Inn, an old hostelry, with a pretty garden. (Write or telegraph ahead for rooms.) The famous Matlock Bath (New Bath Hotel) is in the romantic Matlock Dale, on the Derwent. Said Hawthorne: “I have never seen any- where else such exquisite scenery.” Rocky and foliage- clad crags rise 300 ft. above the river, and there are many fine grottos in them. Masson hill, 1,000 ft. high, commands a grand view down the Derwent defiles. Branch line from Matlock to Buxton (St. Anne's Hotel; Palace; Old Hall), 1 hr. from Manchester. Fine springs here, in the Wye valley, efficient in curing rheumatism and gout. 12 acres in public gardens. – Bakewell (Rutland Arms Inn) has a fine ch., with Vernon and Manners monuments. Wirksworth is where George Eliot found much of the scenery and some of the characters for her Adam Bede. The rural beauty of this section is not surpassed in England. Hardwick Hall and Bolsover Castle, both in Derbyshire, are superb mansions, filled with art-treasures. The former may be reached from Clay-Cross staff., between Derby and Shef- field; the latter from Langwith. Burton-on-Trent is the site of vast ale breweries. We now suggest that you go from the Derbyshire district to ENGLAND. 111 Birmingham (Queen’s Hotel, at the stat. ; North- western; Hen and Chickens). Fares from Manchester to Birmingham, 12s. 6d., 9s. 3d., 6s. 11; d. ; from Rowsley, 8s. 7d., 5s. 3%d. . .You can leave Nottingham early, go to Rowsley, Haddon Hall, Chatsworth, and Buxton, and get to Birmingham at night. Birming- ham is the birthplace of Priestley, a centre of liberal thought, and a great manufacturing place (370,000 inhab.). Camden said of old “ Bremicham ” (Brum- magem *), that “it echoed with the noise of anvils, for there were a great many Smiths.” Almost every- thing that can be made of metal is fabricated at Bir- mingham. Visit the Elkington's Electro-plate Works; Gillott's Steel Pen Works; the Mint; the gun-works; the Town Hall, in which are held the renowned triennial musical festivals. New Corporation Offices; new Post- Office; Market Hall; Erchange; Birmingham and Midland Institute; King Edward VI.'s Free Grammar School ; General Hospital; St. Philip’s Ch. ; Aston Hall, in the handsome Aston Park. The Botanical Gardens (ls.; on Mon., ld.) are worth notice. Ercursions may be made to (13 M.) Wolver- hampton (Star and Garter; Swam), adjoining the Black Country. This town has a large manufacturing trade in tin and iron goods (68,000 inhab.). Things to see: St. Peter's Ch.; Queen-Square, with equestrian statue of Prince Albert; Library; Theatre; Orphan Asylum. — To (29 M.) Stafford (Worthwestern Hotel; Swan), a well-built modern town, Izaak Walton was a native of this place. See old timber-houses, especially the Noah’s Ark, in Crabbery-St. ; St. Mary’s and St. Chad's Chs. ; the Bury Ring; Stafford Castle, # M. out. Leather is the chief industry. — To Kidder- minster, famous for the manufacture of carpets. The old ch. is a fine Gothic monument. A walk through 112 WORCESTER. — COVENTRY. the ch.-yard commands views of the town and the river Stour. In the vicinity are the Clent Hills. Richard Baxter preached here 25 years. — To Worcester (Star Hotel; Unicorn), nearly in the centre of England, and finely situated on an ascent from the Severn. The Fongate-St. is very handsome. The Cathedral is an elegant structure, built in 1024–1374, 394 ft. long, 78 wide, 162 high. Beautifully decorated in the lady chapel, where the roof is covered with figures painted in medallions. The fine stone pulpit in the choir is restored. See the enamelled metal cross above the choir-screen. Among the monuments is King John's, one of the most ancient in England; statues of Bishops Wulstan, Oswald, and Hough; tomb of Prince Arthur, son of Henry W., a fine Gothic bit. The cloisters where the monks once resided are interesting. The handsome decagonal chapter-house is now used as a national school. Other public buildings: Episcopal Palace, close by the Severn; the Commandery; Edgar's Tower; the Guild. hall, with royal statues; and the Hopmarket, the most important in England. Coventry, Kenilworth, Warwick, Stratford-on-Avon. It is a relief to get out of the region of factories into the delightful quiet of old Coventry (Craven Arms; King's Head; The Red Lion Hotel). Distance from Birmingham, 18; M.; fares, 3s.6d., 2s. 6d., ls. 7%d. Coventry was formerly the third city in the kingdom. Every one knows the story of Lady Go- diva. An effigy, called Peeping Tom, is still exhibited at the corner of Hertford-St. In Richard II.'s time the city was defended by a high wall, with towers and 12 gates, some of which still remain; but the greater ENGLAND. 113 part of them were destroyed by Charles II. Coven- try retains much of its ancient picturesque aspect, with narrow streets, fine old gables, and half-timber houses, and several hrs. can be profitably spent there. The “three tall spires” of which Tennyson speaks are those of St. Michael’s, Trinity, and Christ Chs. St. Michael’s, one of the finest Gothic structures in England, was founded about 1133. The charming spire, 300 ft. high, was built 1373–95. The ch. was rebuilt in 1434, and is 400 ft. long. “Most magnificent, — so old, yet enduring; so huge, so rich,” Hawthorne found it. Trinity Ch. is close to St. Michael’s, and was once a fine specimen of Gothic. Dugdale finds a mention of its annexation to the Benedictine Priory in 1260. Christ Ch. was founded by the begging Greyfriars. The spire is the only remaining part of the old ch. ; the rest has been restored. St. John's Ch., at the N. W. end of the city, is a fine old building, with a mas- sive tower. St. Mary's Hall is a beautiful edifice near St. Michael’s. It originally belonged to St. Cathe- rine’s Guild, and was built at the commencement of the 16th century. The Free School, Greſfriars or Ford Hospital; the House of Industry, built out of the re- mains of the Whitefriars Monastery (founded in 1342): and the remnants of the gates, are other objects of interest. A few fragments of the Benedictine Priory, founded in 1043, are left. About 4 M. out is Stone- leigh Abbey, a place of great antiquity, held before the Conquest by King Edward. Henry II, granted it to a body of Cistercian monks. The site is a lovely one, the Avon bathing two sides of the verdant slopes on which the old monastic house was located. There is a fine park in front; and a road, crossing the Avon by an elegant stone bridge, conducts to the gateway. The building is clothed with ivy, and its ponderous 8 114 KENILWORTH. oaken gates are very curious. Within the state apart- ments are many paintings by Rembrandt, Van Dyck, Holbein, Teniers, etc. For those who have time, nothing can be more de- lightful than a leisurely tour on foot from Coventry to Kenilworth, Warwick, and Stratford-on-Avon; going out from this region of fine old castles, lovely valleys, and beautiful fields, by Rugby, and thence either straight down to London, or to Peterboro’, and Ely, making a detour of Cambridge and Oxford. For those who de- sire to see Kenilworth, Warwick, and Stratford, and get away to London at night, there will be no other course than to take a carriage at Coventry, Leaming- ton, Warwick, or Stratford. A beautiful trip is as fol- lows: Go from Coventry (5 M.), by a road shaded all the way by fine elms and sycamores, to Kenilworth (King's Arms Inn, Castle), where the chief attraction is Kenilworth Castle, standing on an eminence to the W. The first buildings, in a deep hollow overgrown by underbrush, are the base and side walls of the Gallery Tower, the S. E. end of the Tilt Yard, and originally the chief entrance to the Castle. Enter by a gate in the N. Wall (trifling fee), and first arrive at Leicester's Gateway, a square building of 4 stories, flanked at each angle with an octagonal tower, and embattled. This building is not entered by visitors, as it is a private residence. Passing on, you come directly in front of the main buildings; and looking W. have the inner court in full view. The E. side of the square was composed of buildings erected by King Henry VIII. and Sir Robert Dudley, but is now wholly destroyed. On the r. is Cesar's Tower, a vast keep of immense strength, with walls many feet thick. Beyond is the building called Mervyn's Tower, which all readers of Scott's novel of Kenilworth will visit. The chambers | ENGLAND. 115 are all arched with stone, and it is supposed that they served as prisons in the time of Henry II. From the top may be seen on the r, the remains of the Swan Tower, which formed the N. W. angle of the outer walls built in Henry III.'s time. Adjoining Mervyn Tower, on the S., is the great Banqueting-Hall, built î. John of Gaunt. The floor was supported on a stone vaulting, carried on parallel rows of pillars, the remains of which may be seen. Notice the great height of the windows, which were filled with tracery, and transomed. Beyond the Banqueting-Hall are the White Hall, the Presence Chamber, and the Privy Chamber; and still S. are the remains of Leicester's buildings, of great height and remarkable architectural beauty. The cas- tle was founded by Geoffroy de Clinton, Lord Cham- berlain to Henry I.; to pass presently to the crown of Henry III. It was granted to the Earl of Leicester, and became the resort for the insurgent nobles. After Leicester's defeat and death, his eldest son sheltered himself in this fortress; and there was a famous siege, in which the castle held out for 6 months. In Edward I.'s time a magnificent tournament occurred here. Edward II. lay a prisoner in the castle at one time; and the visits of Elizabeth to Kenilworth were in 1566, 1568, and 1575. The last was immortalized by Scott. From Kenilworth by the highway to Warwick is about 5 M., by Leek Wootton, a village built on a rocky eminence and quite picturesque. 1 M. beyond is Blacklow Hill, where, from an opening in the trees, is seen the monument erected to mark the spot on which Piers Gaveston, Earl of Cornwall, was be- headed. 13 M. from Warwick, is Guy's Cliff, the handsome country-seat of Lady Percy, and a place of religious retirement more than 4 centuries previous to the time of Earl Guy Warwick, who is supposed at this 116 WARWICK. place to have finished his life of adventure, as a her. mit. Leland, in Henry VIII.'s time, calls this “the abode of pleasure, a place meet for the Muses.” Cam- den, tº: and Fuller are all equally enthusiastic in its praise. Guy's Cave and Guy’s h’ell are shown. Warwick (Warwick Arms ; Globe ; Woo/-pack: these houses, though comfortable, are small and apt to be crowded; it is best to telegraph for rooms in ad- vance) is near the centre of beautiful Warwickshire, on a rocky hill, past which the Avon flows. The town is of Saxon origin, and was formerly surrounded with strong walls, of which there are now but few rem- nants. The old gates are interesting; and the Hospital, founded by the Earl of Leicester, is one of the finest specimens of half-timber buildings. . It stands at the W. end of High-St., of which its chapel, which pos- sesses a very beautiful window, forms a striking orna- ment. Under the chapel is a curious vaulted passage of great antiquity, through which an entrance into the town once passed. A tower, built by Thomas de Beau- champ, in the time of Richard II., rises above the chapel. This formed the W. gateway of the fortifi- cations. It has a richly groined ceiling. In this hos- ital a limited number of brothers are allowed. They x * i. to wear a livery when abroad, consisting of a fine blue broadcloth gown, with a silver badge of a bear and ragged staff, Lord Leicester’s crest. St. Mary's is the principal ch. in Warwick. It was founded prior to the Conquest; and contains many curious monuments, and Beauchamp Chapel, which is considered the most splen- did in England, after that of Henry VII. Warwick Castle, one of the noblest residences in England, is S. E. of the town, on a high rock which overlooks the Avon. Before entering the castle, walk down to the stone bridge, from which there is a fine ENGLAND. 117 view of the castle. The moonlight view is striking. Enter the castle by a huge gate, and walk up a winding way, bordered by moss-grown rock, to the outer court, formerly a vineyard, renowned for its grapes in the time of Henry IV. On the r. is Guy's Tower, 128 ft. high, 30 ft. in diameter, and with walls 10 ft. thick; and on the 1. the venerable Caesar's Tower, coeval with the Norman Conquest. This is connected with Guy’s Tower by an embattled wall, in the centre of which is the great arched gateway, flanked by towers and suc- ceeded by a second, whose towers and battlements rise above those of the first. After passing the double gateway you are in the inner court, and see the great castle directly in front of you. When the family is absent (and it generally is), the interior is shown. The rooms shown are the Great Hall, from which a view is obtained through the state rooms, a straight line of 333 ft., terminated at the W. end by a window. From this great hall may also be seen, at the end of the Chapel Passage, Van Dyck’s celebrated painting of Charles I. You pass through the Red Drawing-Room ; the Cedar Drawing-Room, containing a bust by Hiram Powers, and a portrait of Charles I. by Van Dyck; and next enter the Gilt Drawing-Room, which contains paint- ings by Van Dyck. The bed and furniture in the State Bedroom belonged to Queen Anne. The tapestry, in this room is very fine. The Boudoir is a veritable museum ; and the effect of the immense height, and the tree-tops, which come up to the very windows, is curious. Here are pictures by Holbein, Rubens, Teniers, etc. From thence pass through the Armory Passage into a billiard-room, rich with portraits; a Compass-Room ; the Chapel; and the Dining-Room, in which is the famous Kenilworth buffet, made of an oak grown on the Kenilworth estate. In the Breakfast- 118 WARWICK CASTLE. Room is a fine collection of paintings by Canaletto, who resided for some time at the castle. (Small fee to ser- vant who shows the apartments: for one person, 6d. or ls.; for a party of 4, 2s.) Caesar's Tower is not shown. It has a dark and dismal dungeon beneath it, on the walls of which are scrawls made by prisoners. Guy's Tower, the top of which is reached by a flight of 133 steps, commands a noble view of Coventry, Kenilworth, Guy’s Cliff, Leamington, and the neigh- borhood. The gardens are very fine, and on the hill of the tower are some superb cedars of Lebanon. In the great hall are a few relics of the hero Guy. Hawthorne calls this “one's very idea of an old castle.” From Warwick to Leamington is 2 M. Arly, runs from Lea- mington through Warwick to Stratford. (From War- wick to Stratford, 13+ M.) The most desirable route, however, is by highway, 8 M. from Warwick, past Charlcote, the country-seat of the Lucys, to Stratford. This is a delightful excursion, and we recommend those who can to make it on foot, that they may linger among the beautiful sylvan scenery, and approach Stratford through the pleasant meadows. Charlcote House is off the route to Stratford, but the drivers usually take you close to it. It is a handsome mansion in the midst of a beautiful park, well stocked with deer, the sight of which will call to mind the youthful ad- venture of Shakespeare as a poacher, and the prose- cution which decided him to render Sir Thomas Lucy immortal as Justice Shallow. From Charlcote you pass through numerous fine bits of woodland country, and, crossing the Avon Bridge, enter Stratford-on-Avon (Shakespeare Hotel ; Red Horse; Falcon), a quiet old-fashioned place, with wide and well-kept streets, and many handsome mansions. The Town Hall was dedicated to the memory of the ENGLAND. -. 119 great poet. In this hall is a statue presented by Gar- rick. On the pedestal see the lines from Hamlet: “Take him for all in all, we shall not look upon his like again.” Very interesting is the Shakespeare Memorial Building and Theatre, which we advise you to visit first on entering the town. This memorial structure, in a charming situation by the Avon, was the outgrowth of the feeling that the poet should have a suitable monument in his native town. From the Memorial go to Holy Trinity Ch., a cruci- form edifice, consisting of a nave with aisles, a transept and chancel, and a square battlemented tower, in a lovely situation by the Avon, surrounded by a ch.-yard full of tombstones, covered with quaint inscriptions. If the doors are not open, the driver will go for the keys. The ch. contains interesting monuments and some very quaint wood-carvings. The grave of Shake- speare is in the floor of the chancel, covered by a plain flagstone. On the chancel-wall, near the grave, is an or- namental arch with a bust of Shakespeare, in a thought- ful attitude. From this burial-place of genius it is but a short distance to the village of Shottery, where stands, embosomed in foliage, the pretty cottage once the resi- dence of Anne Hathaway. In this humble abode Shakespeare courted his wife. Mrs. Baker, a lineal descendant of the Hathaways, shows the quaint inte- rior; the oaken seat on which Shakespeare and Anne were wont to sit; many bits of venerable furniture; and, up-stairs, a vast bed, on which many a Hathaway has drawn the last breath of life. She also shows a yisitors’ book, which contains the names of a great num- ber of eminent Englishmen and Americans (small fee). Return to Stratford, and in Henley-St. you will find the Shakespeare House. This is a fine old half-timber building, in which the poet was born (1564), and where 120 STRATFORD-ON-AVON. his family long lived. It consists of 3 apartments on the ground floor, one of which is a museum; of the room in which Shakespeare was born, up-stairs; and smaller rooms, in one of which is the celebrated Strat- ford portrait of the bard, unlike the commonly received pictures, but believed by many people to be more au- thentic. It was painted over in Puritan times to escape destruction. The room in which the poet was born is in its original state, except that visitors of every nation and every rank have scribbled their names on the walls and windows. The autographs of Byron, Scott, Washington Irving, George IV., the Prince of Orange, the Duke of Wellington, Tom Moore, Charles Dickens, etc., are pointed out. The house is now the §. of the nation, having been purchased in 1874 y public subscription. In the museum are early edi- tions of Shakespeare's plays; the deed made in 1596, showing that John Shakespeare, the father of the poet, resided in this house; a letter from Mr. Richard Quyney to Shakespeare in 1598, requesting a loan of £30, the only letter known to be in existence, addressed to the poet; Shakespeare's signet ring, with the initials W. S. upon it; an old desk, said to have been his, and re- moved from the Grammar School; the Shakespeare jug, from which Garrick drank at the Jubilee in 1769; and a sword, which once belonged to Shakespeare. Autograph sentiments, written by Washington Irving, by Lucien Bonaparte, and others, are also to be seen. Visitors register their names. The old visitors’ books are most curious. The first one, beginning in 1812, may be seen at Mrs. James’s, near the Town Hall, in High-St. (Admission to Shakespeare's birthplace, 6d. House open daily, 9–7.) The pilgrim should now come to New Place, where Shakespeare lived during his prosperous latter years, and where he died (1616). It ENGLAND. - 121 L_ is to-day merely a well-kept lawn. The house is gone. Opposite is the Guild Chapel, founded in 1269; chancel . about 1450. In the second story of the adja- cont Guild Hall is the Grammar School, where Shake- speare was one of the pupils. Visit one or both of the celebrated inns, the Red Horse and the Shakespeare; the former, where you can lunch before returning to Warwick, is a plain, unromantic-looking house, ren- dered interesting by the genius of Washington Irving. There Americans are shown the room where he stayed; a chair, with his name engraved on a brass plate; the poker with which he poked the fire, etc. From Warwick go by rly. (2 M.) to Leamington (Manor House Hotel), a famous watering-place, with sulphuretted saline springs. The most important build- ing is the Royal Pump Room and Baths. You may go directly from Warwick to London (fares, 15s. 6d., 11s. 10d., 8s. 6d. ; time, 3 hrs. ; distance, 97# M.). , Oxford may be visited on the way; but we recommend you to go to Rugby, Peterborough, Ely, Cambridge, and Northampton; then from Bedford to Oxford and London. You will pass through Rugby (George Hotel; Eagle; Royal; Three Horse- shoes), Dickens's Mugby Junction, famous for its Gram- Inar School, founded in 1567. Here the celebrated Dr. Arnold was head master; and the readers of Tom Proton will perhaps wish to visit the school. Close by is. Castle Mount, where a stronghold stood in the time of King Stephen. 1; M. out is Bilton Hall, where dison lived. In the garden is Addison's favorite Walk. After leaving Rugby you soon reach Peterborough (Great Worthern Hotel ; Angel ; £re/ound), anciently called Medeshamstede, and deriv. #5 its origin from a noted Benedictine Abbey, estab- lished in 655, shortly after the Saxons had become 122 PETERBOROUGH. Christianized. The Danes destroyed this abbey (807), and it was restored in 966. Then the town was named after the saint to whom it was dedicated. The abbey, when Henry VIII. dissolved the religious bodies, was one of the most magnificent in the king- dom, and was selected as the see of one of the new bishoprics. The monastic buildings suffered cruelly during the civil wars; and the cathedral itself was sadly defaced. It is said that Henry VIII. spared Peterborough Abbey because Catherine of Aragon lay buried within its enclosure. It is a noble Norman structure, 471 ft. long and 180 ft. wide. Mary, Queen of Scots, once reposed here. The cloisters are in excellent preservation. At the W. end of the cathedral is a fine court, on the S. side of which a range of the old monastic structures is still erect. The W. front (built 1250), 3 vast open arches, has been called “the grandest portičo in Europe.” See the noble old oaken roof, the carved oaken screen, the Lady Chapel, the venerable font. Hawthorne said: “Of all the lovely closes that I ever beheld, that of Peterborough Cathedral is the most delightful, -so quiet, so solemnly and nobly cheerful.” Most of the beautiful glass and all the records in the cathedral were destroyed by Cromwell’s soldiers. The E. end was burned in 1438. In the Ch. of St. John the Bap- tist there are some exquisite figures by Flaxman. Peterborough has a large trade in corn, coal, etc. 2 . M. out is Milton Park, the seat of Earl Fitzwilliam. 9 M. distant is Castor, with a perfectly preserved Roman fortress. 21 M. away is Fotheringhay, with a splendid ruined ch, and the ruins of the old Plan- tagenet castle in which Mary, Queen of Scots, was put to death. From Peterborough it is 30 M. (fares, 6s. 8d., 5s., 2s. 5%d.) to ENGLAND. 123 -mm Ely (Lamb Inn, Bell). The Isle of Ely is a tract of high land, amid the fens; and here a monastery was founded by St. Etheldreda (673). A charter was granted by Edgar, and confirmed by Canute, Edward the Confessor, and the Pope. The isle made an excel- lent defence against William the Conqueror. The stalls are remarkable specimens of wood-carving. The cathe- dral was founded about 1080. The Galilee is a beau- tiful porch. The Central Octagon is a superb Gothic dome, with exquisite details. Note the new oak screen, with brass gates; the rich marble carvings in the Choir; the Stalls ; Bishop Alcock's Chapel; Prior Crandene's Chapel; and the ancient Bishop's Palace. There is a Park S. of the cathedral. The Lady Chapel was begun in the reign of Edward II., and is con- sidered one of the most perfect buildings of its kind. Ely Cathedral is the longest Gothic j (but one) in Europe (537 ft.). The W. tower is 266 ft. high. For technical description see King's Hand-Book of English Cathedrals, which is an excellent companion in these ancient towns. From Ely proceed to Cambridge (University Arms ; Red Lion ; Bull; Hoop ; Castle ; Bird and Bolt), 56 M. from London, and on the Cam, a narrow stream that rambles all over the town. Tradition gives 630 as the date of the foundation of the University; but the oldest college, Peterhouse or St. Peter's, can only be referred to 1257. The public buildings are the Shire Hall, Town Hall, niversity halls and library, and Fitzwilliam Museum. There are 17 colleges, inferior in architectural beauty to those of Oxford, though their associations are quite as interesting. Trinity was founded by Henry VIII. in 1546, and has 3 fine quadrangles; a splendid hall in the Tudor style; gardens; and an important library, With busts of Newton and Bacon, Thorwaldsen's statue 124 CAMBRIDGE, of Byron, Newton's telescope, some of John Milton's MSS., etc. Christ's College, founded in 1442, was Milton's college. In the gardens is Milton's Mulberry- Tree. The quadrangle was rebuilt by Inigo Jones. Jesus College (1496) and Chapel are very fine build- ings, on the site of a Benedictine nunnery. Caius (pronounced Kees) was founded in 1384, and enlarged in 1557 by Dr. Caius, physician to Queen Mary. Re- built lately, it is now one of the best. Corpus Christi (1351) contains curious portraits, especially those of Sir Thomas More, Wolsey, Erasmus, and Foxe, the author of the Book of Martyrs. King's College (1441), founded by Henry VI., is the finest building in the University. The chapel is one of Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpieces. The roof, en- tirely unsupported by pillars, contains 12 divisions of exquisite lace-work tracery in stone. The 24 stained- glass windows, each 50 ft. high, are beautiful. The music is exceptionally fine. The visitor should go to the Sunday service. St. John's, founded by Mar. garet, the mother of Henry VII., in 1511, has 4 quad- rangles, a beautiful chapel, and a rare old library. See also Emmanuel, 1584 (whose graduates founded New England); St. Catherine's (1475); Clare (1326); Downing (1807); Pembroke (1347); Sidney Sussea: (1596); Magdalene (1519); Trinity Hall (1347). The most striking part of Cambridge is “the Backs,” where the college gardens slope down to the river, overhung by beautiful trees and crossed by handsome bridges. The site of Cambridge is flat, and forms part of the great Fen Level. Not far from Cambridge is Newmarket, the fa- mous turf resort, which became popular in the days of James I., who had a hunting-seat here. Near by is Bury St. Edmunds, where an abbey (whose noble ENGLAND. 125 ruins remain) was founded by Canute to commemorate the martyrdom of Edmond. We proceed next to Bedford (Swan Inn, George ; Rose; Red Lion), once the home of John Bunyan. His chair, in Bury- in-Meeting, Mill-St., may still be seen; and Bedford Jail, where he wrote The Pilgrim’s Progress, during his 12 years' imprisonment, still exists. Bunyan’s birthplace was Elstow, 1 M. from Bedford; and there his cottage and forge are shown. Also a noble abbey- ch. See the fine statue of Bunyan, preaching, and holding the Bible. This stands on St. Peter’s Green. Scenes from the Pilgrim’s Progress on pedestal. The Duke of Bedford gave this statue to the town. The philanthropist Howard was born at Cardington, 2 M. distant. The Swan Inn occupies the site of the old castle, destroyed in the reign of Henry III. From Bedford it is but a very short journey to Northampton (Angel Hotel ; George ; Peacock), the seat of the boot and shoe manufacture (50,000 inhab.). 20 Parliaments were held here between the the 12th and 14th centuries; and on one occasion the University was transferred hither from Oxford. The Castle, with the exception of one tower, was demol- ished in 1662. The old Hospital, founded in honor of Thomas à Becket, is near the S. gate. Interesting sights, – St. Sepulchre Ch., built by the Knights Tem- plar, on the plan of Christ's Sepulchre at Jerusalem; the Town Hall; the Shire Hall. Statue by Chantrey of Spencer Perceval in All Saints' Ch. Queen Eleanor’s Cross is 1 M. S. Near this relic Henry VI. was de- feated by Warwick in 1460. Althorp Park, seat of Earl Spencer, with famous library and picture-gallery, 7 M. out. Go by rail from Bedford via Bletchley to Oxford (Randolph Hotel, the most modern, with res- taurant; Clarendon; Mitre and Roebuck, in the centre 126 OXFORD. of the town, first-class; Angel; King's Arms; Jones's Railway Hotel). The modern town contains the County Jail, near the old tower of Oxford Castle; the Town Hall; and the Martyrs’ Memorial, a Gothic monument in St.-Giles, on the spot where Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer were burnt at the stake, in 1555–6. Oxford as a seat of learning dates from the time of Alfred the Great, or even earlier. The original town was demol- ished by the Danes. The traditions of modern Oxford #. back to the Conquest, after which the monasteries ounded there obtained great fame for their learning. The town-plan is a cross, 4 broad streets converging from the cardinal points. The central point is called Carfar, a corruption of Quatre-faces. The curve of High-St., with its splendid architectural monuments, makes it one of the finest streets in Europe. Public buildings to be visited: The Schools; Ashmo- lean Museum, containing the Arundel Marbles; Bod- leian Library, with its interesting portraits ; Radcliffe Observatory; Taylor Institution; University Galleries (open daily, 12–4), containing important drawings by Michael Angelo and Raphael; University Museum, a modern Gothic building in the Park. The laboratories are worthy of notice (open daily, after 2 P.M.). See the beautiful Ch. of St. Mary. University College was founded, according to tradition, in 872, by Alfred the Great; but it dates historically from 1280. Imposing high-towered gateway, new library, etc. Balliol was founded by John Balliol, and Devorgilla, his wife (parents of John Balliol, King of Scotland), in 1263. The building has been restored, and new halls built. As regards the number of students, it is the largest foundation in Oxford. Merton (1264), handsome tower and curious old architecture. Two quadrangles, and a large chapel. Exeter (1314), fine spire to the ENGLAND. 1 27 z-----------...-s:- chapel (a copy of La Sainte Chapelle, at Paris). Very large buildings. Noted timber roof in hall. Oriel (1326), where at one time studied Arnold, Keble, Newman, Pusey, Wilberforce, and Whately. Queen's (1340), with hall designed by Wren. New College (1386), one of the finest architecturally, with beautiful cloisters; fine chapel and splendid choir. Lincoln (1427), John Wesley’s college. All Souls' (1437), fine buildings in 2 quadrangles. Magnificent chapel, with reredos. Spacious hall. Magdalen (pronounce Maudlen), founded in 1458, with a beautiful campanile, cloisters, deer-park, gardens, Addison’s walk along the Cherwell. Splendid chapel (famous choral service, 5 P.M.). Brasenose (1509), Bishop Heber's college. Corpus Christi (1516), almost unchanged for 300 years. Christ Church, founded by Cardinal Wolsey (1525). Façade 400 ft. long. Attached to this foun- dation is the Cathedral of Christ Ch. (once the ch. of St. Frideswide's Priory). The great college tower con- tains Big Tom, twice the size of the largest bell in St. Paul's. Fine library and pictures. Immense quad- rangle. Through the new buildings pass into the beau- tiful Christ-Church meadows (50 acres on the Thames, Isis, and Cherwell). Trinity (1554), beautiful gardens and walks, with classical tower and chapel. St. John's (1555), magnificent Palladian buildings, and the finest gardens at Oxford. Jesus (1571), frequented al- most exclusively by Welshmen. Fine hall, chapel, and library. Wadham (1613), beautiful gardens. Fine chapel and hall, with timber roof. Pembroke (1624), Samuel Johnson's college. Worcester (1714), beau- tiful gardens and lake. Keble, built by subscription. as a memorial to the Rev. John Keble, in 1870. Qxford to London by Great Western Rly., 63%. M.; by North Western, 78 M. (lls., 8s. 4d., 5s. 3d.). 128 LONDON. - London. Hotels. – Grand Hotel, Trafalgar-Square, new and elegant ; Continental, Waterloo Place, expensive, but com- fortable; Inns of Court, High Holborn ; Langham, Port- land Place ; Buckingham Palace Hotel, Buckingham Palace Gate; hºestminster Palace Hotel, Victoria-St. ; De Keyser's Royal Hotel, corner Blackfriars Bridge; Brown’s Hoſeſ, 21 Dover-St. ; Long's Hotel, 16 New Bond-St. ; Alexandra, St. George's Place, Hyde Park Corner; Fenton’s, 63 St. James-St. ; Park Hotel, Park Place, St. James-St. ; Bruns- wick, Jermyn-St., Piccadilly; C/aridge's, 49–55 Brook-St., Grosvenor-Square, the dearest hotel in London. Each great rly.-stat. has a vast hotel at or near it : The Great Western Hotel, at Paddington stat. ; the Midland Grand, at St. Pan- cras; the Great Northern Railway Hotel, at King's Cross; the Euston and Victoria Hotels, at Euston; the City Termi- mus Hote/, at Cannon-St. ; the Internationa/, near London Bridge; the Charing Cross, central, but not very good, and dear; the Grosvenor, at Victoria; and the Holborn Viaduct. Morley's, on Trafalgar-Square ; IWood's, Furnival’s Inn ; the Goſden Cross, Strand ; the Craven, Craven-St. ; the Cathedral, 48 St. Paul's Churchyard; and the Castle and Falcon, 5 Aldersgate-St., - are good houses. In Albemarle, New Bond, Dover, Arlington, St. James, and Clifford Sts. are many fashionable hotels. In and around Covent Garden and the Strand are many excellent houses. The Tavistock and New Hummums, in Covent Garden, receive gentlemen only. Covent Garden Hotel, corner Southampton-St. ; Ash/ey's, 13 Henrietta-St.; Bedford, 14 Piazzas, Covent Garden; Hare/7's, near Exeter Hall; Ade/phi, John-St. ; Scott’s, 13 Cecil-St. ; Barrett's, Cecil-St., - may be recommended. At the great houses, single rooms, 4-15s. per day; attendance, 1s. 6d. ; breakfast, 3s.-3s.6d. ; table d'hôte dinner without wine, 5s. ; luncheon, ê la carte. In some few hotels, dinner is 7s.6d. In hotels of the second order, bedrooms cost 2s. 6d.-6s.; ENGLAND. | 29 attendance, ls.—ls. 6d. ; breakfast, 2s. 6d. ; dinner, 8s.-4s. Beware of ordering dinner & la carte in the coffee-rooms : the bill becomes enormous. If you stay more than 3–4 days, the servants who wait on you all expect gratuities. Board- ing. — There are several excellent private boarding estab- lishments patronized mainly by Americans. Mr. Burr’s, 10 Queen's Square, Bloomsbury, is one of the best. Restaurants. – London is poor in these, compared with Paris and other Continental cities. We will mention P'er- rey’s and Blanchard's, in Regent-St. ; Café Royal, Regent- St. ; Ho/born (with music), 218 High Holborn ; Criterion, Piccadilly ; St. James's (with music), Piccadilly. At these last three, dimer costs 3s. 6d. ; attendance, 6d. The Bur- fington, Regent-St. ; Romano's, 399 Strand ; Previta/i’s, Arundel-St., - are suitable for families, as are the others above mentioned. For bachelors, we recommend the Blue Post, in Cork-St., behind the Royal Academy of Arts ; the A/bion, in Russell-St., Covent Garden; Simpson’s, Strand; the Rainbow, Fleet-St.; the Gaiety, Gaiety Theatre, Strand; the Horseshoe, Tottenham Court Road; Gatti’s, Adelaide- St., Strand ; Dreher's (German), 395 Strand ; Momico’s, 15 Tichborne-St. ; B/anchard’s, Beak-St. ; the Cock, 201 Fleet-St. Furnished Lodgings without board are not expen- sive. Very good double bedrooms may be had for 15s.-21s. per week; breakfast per person, in the house, 12s. 6d.-15s. per week; single bedroom, 8s.-14s. per week. A Round-Trip Omnibus Route. — From Trafal– gar-Square take a Blackwall (blue) omnibus via Charing Cross, the Strand, Fleet-St., Ludgate Hill, Cheapside, the Bank, Cornhill, Aldgate, Whitechapel, Commercial Road, to Burdett Road. Get down here, and take tramway (red horse-car) to Victoria Park. Walk down the Victoria Park Road, and at the end of the road take the tram (blue) to City Road, past Hackney and Old-Street Road. City Road crosses Old-Street Road. Take tram (blue) to Archway Tavern by City Road, Liverpool Road, and Holloway Road. From Hol- loway Road a car may be taken via Caledonian Road, to King's 9 ºssessºr-------—r-------~~~~ 130 LONDON. Cross, and from King's Cross take (green) omnibus to The Castle, Camden Town. Walk to the Britannia, Cam- den Town, and take a (claret) Camden Town omnibus to Bishop's Road through Park-St., St. John's Wood Road, past Lords' Cricket Ground, Grove Road, Church-St., Pad- dington Green. From where this omnibus stops another (yel- low) may be taken via Edgware Road, Oxford-St., Holborn, the Viaduct, Cheapside, King William-St., and London Bridge. From London Bridge take a (green) omnibus to the Elephant and Castle. From this point take a tram to Westminster, and then (yellow) omnibus to Trafalgar-Square. The Underground Rly. (Metropolitan) will be found very convenient. The most central stats. are : Char- ing Cross, Temple, Blackfriars, Mansion House, Westmin- ster, St. James Park, Victoria, Sloane-Square, S. Kensing- ton, Gloucester Road. These roads allow you to effect a great saving of time. Tramways are now numerous (ſares, 2d.—3d.). Trains run every 5 min. all day between Charing Cross and Cannon-St., calling at Waterloo Junction. This is a convenient way of getting from the centre of the town into the E. district. Steamboats, see p. 150. Local Cab-fares. Beware of the hansom, if you wish to be economical. Within a 4-M. radius, of which Charing Cross is the Centre, the fares are regulated thus: For any distance under 2 M., ls.; for every additional M. or part thereof, 6d. Within the central part of London, the ordinary cab- course is rarely more than ls.; but the cabman generally de- mands 1s. 6d. from the stranger. Outside the 4-M. circle, a special agreement must be made. , 4-wheeled cabs, locally called growſers, inside the radius for 1 hr. or less, 2s. ; for every additional 15 min., 6d, Baggage, 2d. per package; Hansoms, per hr., 2s. 6d. * Theatres, etc. — Most of them are open in summer. The opera-houses, Covent Garden, and Her Majesty's Theatre, in the Haymarket, are open April–Aug. Prices, 2s. 6d.— £1 1s. for orchestra-stalls. Genteel comedy, at the Haymar- £et, Haymarket-St.; the Prince of hºales's, in Tottenham- ENGLAND. 13] St.; the Princess's, in Oxford-St. ; the St. James’s, in King's-St. ; the Vaudeville, in the Strand; the Criterion, in Piccadilly ; and the Court, in Sloane-Square. For melo- drama and sensational pieces, go to Drury Lane, in Cather- ine-St., and the Adelphi, in the Strand, and the Princess’s. For opera bouffe, ballet, and spectacle, visit the Alhambra, in Leicester-Square; the Gaiety, in the Strand ; the Globe, in Newcastle-St., Strand; the Imperial, at the Westminster Aqua- rium; the Olympic, in Drury Lane; the Opera Comique, in the Strand; the Royalty, in Dean-St., Soho; and the Strand Theatre. The Lyceum, on Wellington-St., is the leading thea- tre, and there Shakespearian tragedy and melodramas are pro- duced. Mr. Irving and Miss Ellen Terry play here. The E. End theatres, notably the Grecian (4d.-3s.), are worth a visit, to get an idea of how the lower classes take their amuse- ment. Music-halls abound. The best are: The Oxford, in Oxford-St. ; the Canterbury, in Westminster Bridge Road; and the Paviſion, at the top of the Haymarket. The Aqua- rium, at Westminster, gives varied entertainments. Visitors in winter will find the best pantomimes at Drury Lane and Covent Garden. The circuses of London are worth visiting, notably Hengler's, in Little Argyle-St. ; Regent Circus; and Sanger's, in the Westminster Bridge Road. Promenade con- certs are held in Aug. and Sept., at Covent Garden; and good concerts, with ballad-singing, are plenty during the sea- son at St. James's Hall and the Royal Albert Hall. Drury Lane Theatre has been the scene of many histrionic triumphs, and among its actors and actresses were Nell Gwynne, Mrs. Siddons, John Kendal, Edmund Kean, Garrick, and Mac- ready. For announcement of operas and plays, see the Times Theatrical Column (daily). Oratorios in Exeter Hall. In the Hanover-Square Rooms, the concerts of the Philharmonic Society and the Royal Academy of Music take place. The New Philharmonic and the Musical Society of London have their concerts in St. James's Hall, Piccadilly. In Piccadilly is the Egyptian Hall, where Artemus Ward made his ap- pearance. Moore and Burgess's Minstrels are in St. James's *********** --~~~~ * 132 LONDON, -ST. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL. Hall. Madame Tussaud's Warworks are in Baker-St., Port- man-Square (daily, 11–6, Is.), with 200 figures of celebrities. Guides. – The tourist should get Baedeker's London, and Hare's Walks abo/f London. The American Exchange, at 449 Strand, has pleasant reception and reading rooms, and a great amount of valuable information is given here to visitors. All Americans should call at the Exchange. Llyn-dûn, the “hill fortress by the pool,” was an ancient British city, on Ludgate or Tower Hill, en- walled by King Lud, and made into the Roman station Londinium, A.D. 43. Tacitus reported it “illustrious for its extensive commerce;” and Bede, 400 years later, called it “an emporium of many nations.” The popu- lation in the “Metropolitan District” of London is over 4,500,000, exceeding that of all Scotland, or Denmark, or Switzerland. The City lies between Temple Bar (W.) and Aldgate (E.), the Thames (S.) and Smith- field and Finsbury Circus (N.), and has about 60,000 inhab., and the great offices, warehouses, etc. West- minster lies between the City and Chelsea, Oxford-St. and the Thames, and has the chief palaces and modern streets. There are also eight boroughs, and scores of annexed villages, in the “Metropolitan District,” which covers 690 square M., having 6,600 M. of streets, 1,000,- 000 gas lamps, 550,000 buildings, 1,100 churches, and 500 hotels. 20,000 vessels enter the port yearly, and there are $500,000,000 of exports. St. Paul's Cathedral was built by Wren in 1675– 1710, on a site before occupied by a temple of Diana, a Roman British ch., and King Ethelbert’s ch., built in 610 and destroyed in 1666. Here King John yielded to the Pope (in 1213); Wyckliffe was cited for heresy (1337); and Tyndale's New Testament was burned (1527). St. Paul's is a Latin cross, with nave 500 × 118 ft.; transepts, 250 ft. long; inner dome, 225 ft. ENGLAND. 133 high; and height to top of cross, 404 ft. St. Peter's and Milan and Seville Cathedrals are larger. It is open from 10 A.M. till dark. Services at 10 and 4. Fee at Crypt, 6d. ; Whispering and Stone Galleries, 6d.; Li- brary, 6d. ; Ball, 1s 6d. The W. front is flanked by high campaniles, and before it stands a statue of Queen Anne (1712). The interior is vast, but bare. See or- gan and wood-carvings in the choir, and monuments of Howard, the philanthropist; Donne, the poet-dean; Dean Milman; Bishop Heber; Dr. Johnson; Hallam, the his- torian; Lord Nelson; Gen. Pakenham; Sir John Moore; Lord Rodney; etc. In the crypt are the porphyry and marble sarcophagi of Wellington, Nelson, and Colling- wood; Wellington’s hearse; and the tombs of the artists Reynolds, West, Lawrence, Turner, Fuseli, and Barry. From the S. aisle, ascend to Library (10,000 vols.), Whispering Gallery, Stone Gallery, and Ball. Hare speaks of St. Paul's as “sublimely grandiose, with a sooty dignity all its own; ” and Hawthorne found it “unspeak- ably grand and noble. . . . It would not be nearly so grand without this drapery of black.” Many Anglo- Saxon kings and queens are buried here; also, Sir Philip Sidney. - Behind the ch. is St. Paul’s School, founded in 1514 by Dean Colet, Erasmus's friend. Here John Milton was educated. Pafernoster Row, famous for books, is N.; and S. are the Deanery, Choristers’ School, and Her- alds' College. Stationers' Hall is nearby, with its grimy little garden. Down the Row is Warwick Lane, once the haunt of Lord Warwick, the king-maker; and the Bell Inn, where the holy Archbishop Leighton died. The General Post-Office and Telegraph Office are im- mense buildings near by, nearly hiding St. Vedast's Ch., one of Wren’s masterpieces. The wealthy Christ's Hospital, founded by Edward VI., on the site of a 134 NEWGATE. — GUILDHALL. Greyfriars' convent, has 1,200 blue-robed pupils. Rich- ardson, Coleridge, Lamb, and Leigh Hunt were educated here. Near by is Newgate, a famous prison, where Jack Sheppard, Titus Oates, Wm. Penn, and Daniel Defoe were confined. N. of Christ's is St. Bartholomew's Hos- pital, a great quadrangle founded as a priory in 1102, and converted into a hospital by Henry VIII. In its Medical School Harvey and Abernethy lectured. In the Great Hall are paintings by Hogarth, Lawrence, Reynolds, etc. The grand Norman Ch. dates from 1102, and has rare monuments. The vast adjacent Smithfield Market (3% acres under roof) occupies the ground once used for the revels, miracle-plays, and tourna- ments of Bartholomew Fair, and later for the martyr- doms under Bloody Mary and Elizabeth. Here, also, Wat Tyler and Sir Wm. Wallace were put to death. Newgate leads to the noble Holborn Viaduct, span- ning a deep valley, at one end of which is St. Sepul- chre's Ch. (John Rogers was its rector), containing the tomb of Capt. John Smith. Near Smithfield is the picturesque Charterhouse, a rich school and asylum on the site of a Carthusian convent (1371). Among the upils here were Steele, Addison, Blackstone, Wes- ey, Grote, Lovelace, Barrow, Eastlake, John Leech, Thirlwall, Thackeray, and Havelock. See the Eliza- bethan Great Chamber; cloisters, chapel, and pictures in the Master's Lodge; also, in adjacent Bunhill Fields, tombs of Bunyan, Defoe, and Dr. Watts; and, in i. John's Lane, the rare old St. John's Gate, built in 504. - The Guildhall (1411–31) has the municipal offices, a Gothic Library (40,000 vols.), a museum (Roman antiques, etc.), a beautiful crypt (on Purbeck marble pillars), and fine portraits. The Great Hall, 153 × 48 ft., has a noble timber roof, stained windows, and the · * *$ຠ& && ！！ ！！ ！！ ---- c + o- -------- Map of LONDON Showing the Principal BUILDINGS º THOROUGHFARES osgoods Pocket Guide -- ------. --- -------- ------- ***"ºº-ºº: , gº gº - * & 3. #. & * ENGLAND. 135 wooden giants, Gog and Magog. Gresham College (1579) and Goldsmiths' Hall are close by. Cheapside is a busy street, with handsome shops, from which run Bread-St., where Milton was born, and Milk-St., where Sir Thomas More was born and on which stood the Mermaid Inn, beloved by Shakespeare, Ben Jonson, Beaumont and Fletcher, Donne, etc. Bow Ch., built by Wren, rises over a Norman crypt, and is crowned by a great dragon, on a tower 235 ft. high. Whoever is born within sound of its bells is a “cockney.” Mercers’. Hall, with its rich pillared court, is on the site of Thomas à Becket's birthplace (1119). The Grocers’ and Armourers' (fine hall .."rich armor) Halls are farther on. The Mansion House, built in 1740, and famous for the Egyptian Hall, is the palace of the Lord Mayor. The costly new Queen Vic- toria-St. leads thence, by Apothecaries' Hall and The Times Office, to Blackfriars Bridge (; M.). Opposite is the low, massive, and broad-based Bank of England, which keeps $75–100,000,000 in coin in its vaults. The splendid Royal Exchange, with its rich carvings, Corinthian colonnades, and campanile, and the Stock Erchange, are near by. Statues of Wellington and Peabody, near Exchange; also Crosby Hall, built in 1466; and St. Helen’s Ch., of the 12th century. In Cornhill, Gray, the poet, was born. St. Michael's Ch. was built by Wren, and St. Catherine Cree by Inigo Jones. Lombard-St. is the Wall-St. of London; Min- cing Lane, the headquarters of colonial trade; Mark Lane, the grain-market. In St. Olave's Ch. is the tomb of Pepys ; and in Trinity Ch. (formerly a Minorite nunnery) is the Duke of Suffolk’s head. St. Swithin's Ch. has the famous London stone, a Roman milliarium, built into its wall. The venerable St. Saviour's Ch. is over London Bridge, and has a beautiful Lady Chapel 136 THE TOWER. and Choir, and tombs of Bishop Andrewes, Fletcher, Gower, and Shakespeare's brother. Beyond is the ancient Guy’s Hospital, in whose ch. Astley Cooper is buried. King-William-St. runs from the Bank, by St. Mary Woolnoth's Ch. and the site of Falstaff's Boar's Head Tapern, to London Bridge, 928 ft. long, built in 1825–31, at a cost of $10,000,000, on 5 granite arches. 20,000 carriages and 100,000 pedestrians cross it daily. The Romans, the Saxons, and Henry II. had bridges here. The Monument, 202 ft. high, built by Wren in 1671–77 to commemorate the Great Fire of 1666 (which destroyed $357,000,000 of prop- erty) is close by. Fine view from its top (fee, 3d.). Thames-St. was Chaucer's home, 1379–85. St. Magnus the Martyr, one of Wren’s chs., has Miles Coverdale’s tomb. Farther E. is Billingsgafe, the famous fish- market. The Custom House is 490 ft. long, on a quay beside the Thames. The Tower is “historically the most interestin spot in England” (open daily, “10–4, 1s. ; Mon. ; Sat., free). A stone bridge leads to the Outer Bail; and the Bell Tower and Traitors' Gate are passed on the way to the Inner Bail, in which rises the famous White Tower, built by William the Conqueror, on the site of a Roman fort. It is 96 × 116 ft. in area, and 92 ft. high, with turreted walls 13–15 ft. thick. Here Richard II. abdicated his throne (1399), and James I. of Scotland was immured. The beautiful Norman Chapel of St. John is here; also the Council Chamber, and the Banqueting Hall, in which 60,000 modern rifles are kept. Among the prisoners of the Tower have been King John of France, King David Bruce of Scotland, the Dukes of Orleans and Marl- borough, William Wallace, Archbishop Cranmer, Lord Strafford, and Lord William Russell. Outside is a col- ENGLAND. 137 lection of ancient cannon; and the Horse Armoury, full of trophies, ancient armor of all nations, and 22 eques- trian figures in full English, Burgundian, and German armor, of dates from 1272 to 1688, and once worn by princes and nobles. Upstairs are trophies from Quebec, Malta, India, New Zealand, etc. Queen Elizabeth’s Armoury contains weapons of the Elizabethan age, the block on which Lord Lovat was decapitated, and the axe which struck off the Earl of Essex’s head. Ad- jacent is the 10 × 8 cell in which Sir Walter Raleigh was confined, 1605–17. The Bloody Tower was that in which the sons of Edward IV. were murdered; Lord Dudley was imprisoned in the Beauchamp Tower; Prin- cess Elizabeth, in the Bell Tower; Lady Jane Grey, in the Brick Tower. The Duke of Clarence was put to death in the Bowyer Tower; and Henry VI, in Wakefield Tower. In the latter are the Crown Jewels of England, valued at $15,000,000: St. Edward’s crown; Victoria’s crown, with 2,783 diamonds, and a wonderful Sapphire and ruby (it cost $560,000); several other crowns; the royal sceptre, and other sceptres and orbs; the Koh-i- Noor diamond; etc. In the cemetery attached to the ancient chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula are the remains of Anne Boleyn, Sir Thomas More, two Earls of Essex, Lord Somerset, Lady Jane Grey, the Dukes of North- umberland and Monmouth, and other noble victims. On Tower Hill stand Trinity House, whose brethren care for the British lighthouses and buoys, and the Royal Mint. William Penn was born on Tower Hill; and the poet Otway died there. St. Katherine's and London Docks are E. of the Tower, with vast crowded Warehouses. London Docks cover 120 acres, and cost $20,000,000. Farther down are other vast docks, the largest in the world. N.W. of the Tower are Bethnal Green Museum and Victoria Park. In the Swedish Ch at Shadwell, Swedenborg is buried. 138 FLEET-STREET. — THE TEMPLE. Blackfriars Bridge, 1,272 ft. long, on granite piers, is named from a monastery formerly hard by, founded in 1276, and where Cardinal Wolsey divorced Katherine of Aragon from Henry VIII. Shakespeare and Ben Jonson formerly lived at Blackfriars. The Victoria Embankment runs along the N. bank of the Thames, from Blackfriars to Westminster Bridge, 1. M., occu- pied by a road and walks 100 ft. wide. This work was done, 1864–70, at a cost of $10,000,000. It is adorned with trees and gardens, and statues of Mill, Outram, and Brunel. Here also stands Cleopatra's Weedle, the great Egyptian obelisk. See also the ancient Water- gate of York House, built by Inigo Jones. On the site of Durham House is the Adelphi Terrace, where King Kamehameha II. and David Garrick died. Fleet-St. runs from near St. Paul’s to the Strand, passing Congregational Memorial Hall, on the site of Fleet Prison, made famous by Dickens; the office of Punch; St. Bride's Ch., built by Wren, near site of Bridewell Prison, with tomb of Richardson the nov- elist; Bolt Court, where Dr. Johnson lived (1776– 84) and died, and Cobbett labored; Cheshire Cheese Inn, frequented by Johnson, Boswell, and Goldsmith; Whitefriars, on the site of an ancient Carmelite monas- tery; Alsatia (down Bouverie-St.), the home of rogues, described in Scott's Fortunes of Nigel ; the site of Izaak Walton’s hosiery-shop, 1624–43; the Gothic Ch. of St. Dunstan in the West; Mitre Court, and its famous old inn; and the New Record Office (open 10–4), a stately Tudor building, containing the Domesday Book. The Temple was founded by the Knights Templar in 1184, and reverted to the Crown on their dissolution, in 1313. In 1346 it was leased to the law schools, which have ever since occupied it. The buildings extend from Fleet-St. to the famous Temple Gardens, where the ENGLAND. 139 War of the Roses broke out. The Middle Temple has a splendid Elizabethan Gothic hall (built 1572), with dark oaken ceiling and princely portraits. Dr. John- son, Chaucer, Blackstone, Lamb, and Oliver Goldsmith lived in the Middle Temple; and the latter is buried in the yard of the very beautiful Temple Ch. (open 10–12, 1–4, daily; 6d.), built in 1185–1240, which has quaint old Templars’ monuments, rich stained windows, and polished pillars of Purbeck marble. Nearly opposite, across Fleet-St., are the vast and superb new Law Courts, in Gothic architecture, which have cost over $5,000,000. Farther N. is the famous Lincoln's Inn, the home of lawyers, with a great library, a quaint chapel built by Inigo Jones, and a handsome Tudor dining-hall. Pitt, More, and Brougham long lived here. Near Lincoln's Inn is the Royal College of Surgeons, with a vast and famous museum; also the admirable Soane Museum, with rare MSS. and early books, antique gems, mediaeval and Renaissance curiosities, and many paintings by Hogarth, Turner, Eastlake, Reynolds, etc. Gray's Inn, nearby, has been a law school since 1371, and has a beautiful Elizabethan hall. Lord Bacon was a member here. Beyond the grotesque monument on the site of Temple Bar (built in 1670; taken down 1878), Fleet-St. is continued as the Strand, connect- ing the City and the W. End. St. Clement Danes Ch. stands over the tombs of Harold Harefoot and other Danish warriors. Dr. Johnson used to worship here; and Joe Miller and the poet Otway are buried in the ch-yard. Hard by is Clement's Inn (quaint garden), Sacred to lawyers, and often mentioned by Shakespeare. Essex, Arundel, Norfolk, and Surrey-Sts., named from the palaces of the great nobles formerly thereabouts, diverge to the Embankment. In the latter lived Con. grewe and Sale; and Peter the Great and William Penn 140 waterLoo BRIDGE. — covKNT GARDEN. lived in Norfolk-St. Thomas à Becket was priest of the Ch. of S. Mary le Strand. Woltaire lived in Maiden Lane. Somerset House is a vast Government build- ing, on the site of the Lord Protector's Palace, with a splendid front towards the Thames. Here may be seen (10–3 daily) the wills of Holbein, Shakespeare, Van Dyck, Newton, Dr. Johnson, and Napoleon I. Waterloo Bridge was built at a cost of $5,000,000. Eveter Hall stands in this region of theatres, and is a famous centre of religious movements. The Chapel Royal, Savoy, a Gothic ch., with ancient tombs, is in Savoy-St. It was built in 1505, on the site of the Savoy Palace, given by Henry III. to Peter of Savoy; owned by John of Gaunt; destroyed by Wat Tyler's mob; and replaced by Henry VII. with a hospital. In the Palace, Chaucer wrote several poems; and there King John of France died. To the N. is Covent Garden, the chief fruit, flower, and vegetable market of London (visit before 7 A.M., Tues., Thurs., or Sat.), on site of convent gardens granted to the Dukes of Bedford in 1551, and still held by them. Here lived Sir Kenelm Digby, Bishop Berkeley, Lord Crewe, Sir Godfrey Kneller, etc.; and the poet Marvell and the i." Turner dwelt in Maiden Lane. Inigo Jones uilt St. Paul's Ch., in whose yard Samuel Butler (“Hudibras”), Sir Peter Lely, “Peter Pindar,” the dramatist Wycherley, and the famous wood-carver Grin- ling Gibbons, are buried. The Royal I/alian Opera-House is in Covent Garden; and near it is the Floral Hall. Charing Cross is a modern copy of a cross erected on its site by Edward I., in 1291. It stands near the ancient equestrian statue of Charles I. “The full tide of existence is at Charing Cross,” said Dr. John- son. Harry Vane, Barrow, and Johnson lived here- abouts. * ENGLAND. IT- The splendid Trafalgar Square contains a column 145 ft. high, with a colossal statue of Nelson, and colossal lions designed by Landseer. Elsewhere are statues of Havelock, George IV., and Sir C. J. Napier. On one side stood Northumberland House, the palace of the Percies, bought by the city for $2,500,000, and demolished in 1874. On its site stands the Grand Hotel. The Ch. of St. Martin’s in the Fields has a fine Grecian front; and in its yard lie Roubillac the sculp- tor, Farquhar the dramatist, and Nell Gwynne. The magnificent National Gallery (free, open Mon., Tues., Wed., and Sat., 10 A.M., till dark; Thurs. and Fri. afternoons, 6d.), N. of the Square, has a classic façade, 460 ft. long. It contains over 1,000 pictures, and is visited by nearly 1,000,000 persons yearly. Each picture has its title and artist inscribed upon it. Fine busts and statues in the Hall. Many of the most famous pictures of the world, familiar by countless engravings, are in this great collection. It is profitable to buy the catalogues (2s). Whitehall leads S. to Whitehall Palace, where Henry VIII. met Anne Boleyn, and where he died; where Holbein dwelt; whence Elizabeth was removed to prison, and Charles I. to execution; where Milton and Cromwell dwelt, and the latter died; where Charles II. held court. The site was occupied by the palace of Hubert de Burgh (13th century), a Dominican con- Yent, and the palace of Cardinal Wolsey. The great Palladian Banqueting Hall only remains, designed by Inigº Jones, painted by Rubens, and now used as a royal chapel (service on Sun, at 11 and 3). In a house nearby, Sir Robert Peel died. In this vicinity is Scotland Yard, famous in police annals; once the Wºº, of the Scottish kings, and later the home of ren, Milton, Inigo Jones. Also Montague House, 142 THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, the palace of the Duke of Buccleuch. In Whitehall Yard is the United Service Museum, crowded with tro- phies of the wars of Britain on all seas and shores, relics of Cromwell, Nelson, Wolfe, Drake, Franklin, Wellington, Napoleon, etc. The Horse-Guards, headquarters of the army, is opposite Whitehall. See mounted Life-Guards sentries, 10–4 daily. The Treas- ury comes next S. The new Public Offices, built in 1868–73 by Sir G. G. Scott (cost, $2,500,000), a splendid pile of Italian buildings, contain the Home, Foreign, Colonial, and India Offices. The Houses of Parliament form an immense Tudor Gothic pile, of Yorkshire magnesian limestone (already crumbling), covering 8 acres, with 11 courts and 1,100 rooms, and erected, 1840–59, at a cost of $15,000,000 (open Sat., 10–4). The façade along the Thames (940 ft. long) is adorned with statues and shields of all the sovereigns of England. The splendid Wictoria Tower is 340 ft. high and 75 ft. square; the Middle Tower is 300 ft. high; and the Clock Tower, 318 ft. high, has a huge clock (dials 23 ft. across), and Big Ben, a bell weighing 13 tons. The oldest part is Westminster Hall, built by William Rufus in 1097, and covered with the present wonderful roof of Irish oak by Richard II.; a splendid hall, 270 ſt. long and 92 ft. high, formerly the seat of England's most august tri- bunals. Here Wallace, Strafford, Guy Fawkes, More, Wyatt, Lords Essex, Cobham, and Arundel, the Dukes of Somerset, Buckingham, and Norfolk, the Scottish nobles who favored the Stuarts, and King Charles I. were condemned to death. Here Warren Hastings was tried, and also the Seven Bishops. Here Edward III. received the captive kings, David of Scotland and John of France. Here Cromwell was installed Lord Protector. Here the coronation-banquets have been ENGLAND. 143 held for 800 years. A stairway descends to the crypt, or Ch. of St. Mary Undercroft, built by King Stephen, and lately made resplendent as a chapel. St. Stephen's Cloisters, E. of the hall, were built by Henry VIII. Ascending from the hall, enter St. Stephen's Hall, with statues of 12 English statesmen and 12 ancient mon- archs; and the Central Hall, a lofty octagon, with statues. The corridors have large frescos of scenes from English history. The House of Commons, 75 × 45 ft., is panelled with oak, and has 12 stained win- dows. The House of Peers, 90 × 45 ft., is a superb Gothic room, with 12 stained windows, statues of the Magna-Charta barons, 6 splendid historical frescos, the Lord Chancellor’s woolsack and the thrones of the Queen and the Prince of Wales. See the Prince's Chamber, Upper Waiting-Hall, Peers’ Robing-lèoom, superb Victoria Gallery, and Queen's Robing-Room (richly frescoed). In Old Palace Yard is a statue of Richard Coeur de Lion. Near by Chaucer and Ben Jonson died; and Sir Walter Raleigh and the Gun- powder-Plot men were executed. The old Parliament House, erected on the site of the palace of the Anglo- Saxon and Plantagenet kings, and burned in 1834, contained the Star Chamber, and was the birthplace of Edward I., and the scene of the death of Edward the Confessor. Here resounded the eloquence of Pitt, Fox, Chatham, Burke, Canning, and Grattan, Westminster Bridge, built 1856–62, at a cost of $1,250,000, commands a fine view of Parliament House. St. Margaret's Ch. replaced a ch. built in 1064 by Edward the Confessor, and has a magnificent old E. Window (The Crucifixion) and many quaint tombs, in- °luding those of poet-laureate Skelton, Milton's wife, Cromwell's mother, Wm. Caxton, Lady Dudley, Har- rington (author of Oceana), Sir Wm. Waller, and Sir 144 WESTMINSTER, ABBEY. Walter Raleigh (who is buried under the altar). Many fine memorials stand in this vicinity; also Mil- ton's house, latterly occupied by Hazlitt, and fre- quented by Lamb and Haydon; Jeremy Bentham’s house; the quaint old Gray Coat School; and the pretty houses of Queen Anne's Gate. Westminster Abbey was founded (on the site of a temple to Apollo) by the Anglo-Saxon King Sebert in 616, for Benedictines; destroyed by Danes; and re- built by Edgar (985), Edward the Confessor (1049), Henry III., and Edward I. Henry VIII. drove out the monks, Queen Mary restored them, and Eliza- beth scattered them forever. All the sovereigns of England since Harold have been crowned here. It is 513 × 75 ft. in area, and 102 ft. high, with W. towers 225 ft. high. It is a splendid Early-English building, immense, harmonious, solemn, and richly colored. (Enter near St. Margaret's; open, except Sun., 9 A.M. till dark. Services at 7:45, 11, and 3 daily. Entrance to chapels, 6d.; Mon., free.) It is world-renowned as England's Temple of Fame, crowded with monuments of kings, heroes, and scholars. In the W. Transept are the monuments of Admirals Warren, Vernon, Wager, Lord Chatham, Canning, Castlereagh, Peel, Mansfield, two Dukes of Newcastle, Warren Hastings, Cobden, Buller, and many famous lords. In the body of the ch. are monuments to Wilberforce, Stamford Raffles, Fowell Buxton, Isaac Newton, Charles Lyell, Fox, Holland, Pitt, Wordsworth, Keble, Congreve, Buckland, Outram, Major André, Dr. Watts, John Wesley, Gen. Paoli, Kneller, Livingstone, Stephenson, etc. The S. Tran- sept (Poets' Corner) contains monuments to Goldsmith, Gay, Handel, Thomson, Southey, Shakespeare, Camp- bell, Sheridan, Camden, Dickens, Grote, Macaulay, Thirlwall, Addison, Thackeray, Casaubon, Barrow, ENGLAND. 145 Garrick, Prior, Gray, Milton, Spenser, Butler, Jonson, l)rayton, Chaucer, Cowley, Dryden, South. — See chap- els of St. Benedict, St. Edmond (Lord Lytton’s tomb), St. Nicholas. The Chapel of Henry VII., built 1502–20, the loveliest in England, has nave, aisles, and 5 chapels, with 1,000 statues, exquisite carved-oak choir-stalls on each side (with the swords and banners of the Knights of the Bath), and a magnificent stone roof of fanwork tracery. See tombs of Henry VII., James I., Mary Queen of Scots, Charles II., William and Mary, George of Denmark, Edward VI., Queen Anne, George II., the Duke of Montpensier, Dean Stanley, Queen Eliza- beth, Edward W., etc. The Chapel of St. Edward the Confessor has tombs of Henry V., Katherine of Valois, Henry III., Queen Eleanor, Richard II., Philippa of Hainault, Edward the Confessor, and Edward I.; also, the Scottish and English Coronation Chairs, and the sword and shield of Edward III. The Chapels of St. John, St. Erasmus, and the Abbot Islip contain ancient tombs, near which are those of Aymer de Valence and Gen. Wolfe. The Chapels of Sts. John, Andrew, and Michael have monuments to Humphry Davy, Dr. Young, Mrs. Siddons, etc. The Chapter-House, built 1250, and occupied by the House of Commons, 1282– 1547, adjoins the Poets’ Corner, and is near the Chapel of the Pyr, St. Blaise's Chapel, and the stairs to the Triforium. Near by are the beautiful Cloisters. The World-renowned Jerusalem Chamber was built 1376–86. Here Henry IV. died; and here the recent revision of the Bible was carried out. Westminster School, founded by Queen Elizabeth (1560), is entered near the column to the W. Wren, Gibbon, Cowley, Cowper, Churchill, Jonson, Dryden, Prior, Locke, Southey, Hakluyt, and Warren Hastings were educated here. Fall Mall is a splendid st., nearly # M. long, running 10 146 PALL MALL. — ST. JAMES’S PARK. W. from Trafalgar-Square, and lined with famous club- houses, which are also found in St. James-St. Among these are the University, United Service, Athenaeum, Travellers’, Reform, Carlton, Army and Navy, Guards, and Marlborough. Pall Mall crosses Wellington Place, in which are the Crimean, Franklin, Burgoyne, and Colin-Campbell monuments, and the York, Column (124 ft. high ; 6d. for ascent). In this vicinity is Marlborough House, built by Wren, and the residence of the Prince of Wales; and St. James’s-Square, with several palaces and club-houses. St. James's Palace is an irregular brick building, designed by Holbein and built by Henry VIII., and the home of England’s kings from 1691 to 1809. Victoria was married in its chapel, and the royal levées are held in its sumptuous state-chambers. Guard-mounting and fine military music daily, at 11.45. Clarence House is the home of the Duke of Edinburgh. Stafford House (Duke of Sutherland) contains hundreds of famous paintings. Bridgewater House (Lord Ellesmere) has magnificent art-collec- tions, including several Raphaels. St. James's Park, S. of the Palace, was created by Henry VIII. and Charles II., and has a lake in its centre, the Birdcage h'alk and JWellington Barracks on the S., the broad Mall on the N., and on the W., near the great Turkish can- non and Marshal Soult's mortar, the ground where the Toot Guards parade at 10 A.M. daily. At the W. end is Buckingham Palace, bought in 1761 by George III. of the Duke of Buckingham, and now the town-resi- dence of the Queen. It is a great quadrangle, with Throne Room, Grand Saloon, and other sumptuous halls, and a Picture Gallery, containing hundreds of rare old paintings. In the rear are large gardens. Regent-St., containing the finest shops in London, and many family houses and clubs, is 1 M. long, and leads from Pall Mall to Oxford-St. ENGLAND. 147 Piccadilly, a brilliant Paris-like street, runs from Haymarket to Hyde Park (1 M.), by the very interest- ing Geological Museum (open daily, 10–5); St. James’s Ch., built by Wren; the houses of the Royal Geologi- cal, Antiquarian, Astronomical, and Chemical Societies; the Royal Academy of Arts (many rare paintings); Lon- don University, with statues; Devonshire House, famous in art; and other palaces of the nobility. Green Park bounds one side of Piccadilly. In The Albany dwelt Byron, Bulwer, Monk Lewis, and Macaulay. Oxford-St. runs l; M. from Holborn to Hyde Park, passing near Bloomsbury, Russell, Cavendish, Hanover, .# Bedford Squares, with their displays &f dull statuary, and crossing Regent-St. and New Bond- St., famous for fine shops. The British Museum (open daily, free, from 10 A.M. till dark) is near New Oxford- St., and contains one of the grandest collections in the world. Here are the famous Elgin Marbles, from the Athenian Parthenon; hundreds of Greek and Roman sculptures, and statuary; reliefs from Babylon, Nine- veh, and Nimroud; 6 rooms full of Egyptian antiquities, MSS., jewels, statues, etc.; hundreds of Greek, Etrus- can, and Roman bronzes; antiquities of the flint, Cel- tic, Roman, Saxon, and mediaeval ages in England; and Vast collections in ethnography and zoölogy. The Li- brary is a circular hall in the centre of the quadrangle, covered with a dome of glass and iron, and containing 1,000,000 books. A little way N. E. is the Foundling Hospital, with rare pictures by Reynolds, Hogarth, etc. Services in chapel, at 11 and 3 on Sun., when the 500 children sing beautifully. Regent's Park (472 acres), a bit of open coun- try in a densely populated region, is 13, M. N. W. of Trafalgar-Square, and contains the famous Zoëlogical Gardens, with great numbers of birds and beasts of 148 LAMBETH PALACE. — HYDE PARK. all kinds (open daily, 9 A.M. till dark, 1s. ; Mon., 6d. Best time to visit, 3–4). Here also are the Botanical Gardens. The metropolis-viewing Primrose Hill lies N.; and Lord’s Cricket Ground is W. 2–3 M. W. is Kensal-Green Cemetery, where are buried Thackeray, Leigh Hunt, Sidney Smith, Allan Cunningham, Buckle, Eastlake, Mulready, Mathews the actor, Leech the cartoonist, Gibson the sculptor, Cardinal Wiseman, etc. St. Thomas’s Hospital is a line of splendid build- ings, # M. long (cost $2,500,000), opposite Parliament House. Beyond, and also on the Thames, is Lambeth Palace, for 700 years the London house of the Arch- Bishops of Canterbury, and very beautiful and interest- ing. Enter by Cardinal Moreton’s lofty embattled gateway. The Hall has a fine timber-roof, and con- tains a library of 30,000 vols. (open daily, 10–3). The Guard Chamber has portraits of scores of archbishops. The Chapel, in which these prelates are consecrated, dates from 1244–70. In the Lollards’ Tower non-con- formists were imprisoned and tortured. In the inner court is the new Tudor palace of the Archbishops. The gardens of Lambeth are large and beautiful. # M. E. is Bethlehem Hospital for the Insane (Bedlam); and a little beyond are St. George's Cathedral (Roman) and Spurgeon’s Tabernacle. Hyde Park (390 acres) was laid out by Henry VIII. At the N. E. gate is the triumphal Marble . Arch; and at the S. E., Hyde Park Corner, is another fine portal, opposite which stands a tall arch, with a colossal statue of Wellington upon it. Rotten Row runs thence to Kensington Gate (13. M.), and is a brilliant riding-course on pleasant summer afternoons, when The Drive, alongside, is filled with elegant equi- pages. The Serpentine is an artificial pond, with pleas- ure-boats. Remarkable lawns and trees are seen on all ENGLAND. 149 º sides. Kensington Gardens adjoin Hyde Park on the W., and lead to Kensington Palace, a grim brown brick structure, built by William III., and the birth- place of Queen Victoria. William and Mary, Queen Anne and her consort, and George II. died here. Tarther W. is Holland House, a Tudor palace built in 1607, and frequented by Cromwell and Fairfax, Wm. Penn, Addison, William and Mary, Moore, Rogers, and Macaulay. S. of the Gardens stands the Albert Memo- rial, a superb Gothic monument, 175 ft. high, covered with statues, and composed of a Gothic canopy, under which is a colossal statue of Albert. Across the road is the vast oval amphitheatre of the Royal Albert Hall (which cost $1,000,000), overarched with glass, hold- ing 8,000 people, and provided with an organ of 8,000 pipcs. The beautiful Horticul/ural Gardens are just S.; and the Natural History Museum faces Cromwell- oad. § The South Kensington Museum (free, Mon., Tues., and Sat., 10–10; 6d., Wed., Thurs., Fri., 10 A.M. till dark; restaurant and lavatories in building) is one of the richest in the world (; hr. from Charing Cross by rly.). It was founded in 1857, and has re- çeived many generous bequests, besides $5,000,000 from Government. The first court is crowded with architectural rarities, original or in casts. The S. Court is surrounded with mosaic portraits of the 33 most famous artists, and Sir F. Leighton’s famous frescos, ºld contains many exquisite objects of art. The N. (9%rt is devoted to Italian-Renaissance sculptures, altars, tabernacles, etc., and costly tapestries, terra- °9'tº work, fans, laces, and ancient musical instru- *nts. The Cloisters contain ancient and Oriental ºiture, Persian tiles, carpets, and metal-work. The Mational Gallery of British Art is exceedingly interest- 150 CHELSEA. — ON THE THAMES. ing, and has the famous Cartoons of Raphael, many hundreds of choice paintings by Turner, Reynolds, Landseer, Leslie, Wilkie, etc.; water-colors in great variety; and the Forster collection of autographs and MSS. The Prince Consort Gallery contains mediaeval works of art in gold, brass, and steel, silver-gilt, enamel, and ivory. The Keramic Gallery has Palissy, Majolica, Spanish, Wedgwood, Dresden, Sèvres, and other wares, in great variety. The Patent-Office Museum adjoins this building. Near by is the Wational Portrait Gallery, with 700 portraits of famous English sovereigns, war- riors, scholars, wits, and beauties, from 1184 till now. Between Hyde Park and the Thames are Belgravia and Chelsea, the former containing many fine streets, inhabited by rich families, and the latter being noted mainly for its Hospital for old soldiers, built by Wren. Down the Thames.— Many dingy little steamers ply on the Thames, touching every 10 min. at West- minster, Charing Cross, Blackfriars, St. Paul’s, etc. (fares, 1–2d.). Their focal point is London Bridge, whence larger boats depart for Greenwich (3–4d.), Woolwich, and the sea. You pass the Tower, St. Catherine's Docks, London Docks, the Isle of Dogs, the Surrey, Commercial, and W. India Docks. Below Greenwich the river is dull. The journey Up the Thames gives fine view of St. Paul’s on the r.; and farther up, opposite Blackfriars Rly. stat., the Times newspaper offices. Thence to Waterloo Bridge, ou have the Embankment on the r. Above this is the Adelphi Terrace; the Obelisk, on the r.; and passing the bridges to Charing-Cross stat. and Whitehall Stairs, ou come to Westminster Bridge. On the 1. are St. homas’s Hospital and Lambeth Palace; on the r., the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Get Dickens's Dictionary of the Thames (1s.) ENGLAND. 151 Excursions in Southern England. Windsor (Castle Inn, White Hart), 22 M. from London, may be reached by Great Western or Windsor Ttly. (return-fares, 5s. 6d., 4s. 3d.) The superb state apartments are open, Mon., Tues., Thurs., and Fri., on presentation of tickets. When the Queen is at home, which is rare in summer, they are not shown. (Buy Companion through the State Apartments, ld.) The cas- tle stands on the apex of a hill, and may be seen from afar. Here William the Conqueror built a residence. Edward III. was born in Windsor; and Geoffrey Chaucer, the poet, once lived here. The state apartments are at the N. side. Grand entrance of the castle, George IK.’s Gateway, in the S. front, opposite the Long Walk, a fine vista of elms, 3 M. long. Visitors’ en- trance, Henry VIII.'s gateway. From the Round Tower (open 11–4) 12 counties may be seen. See Waterloo Hall, fine Van Dycks and Rubenses; Chapel Royal St. George's (open 12–4, free), one of the finest Gothic edifieds in Europe (built in 1474), with choir hung round with the banners, helmets, and insignia of the Knights of the Garter; Albert Chapel, formerly Wolsey’s Chapel, built by Henry VII. and reopened in 1875, superb mosaics, reredos, and cenotaph (open Wed., Thurs, Fri, and Sat.). Fine view from the Castle Terrace. Pleasant drive (7 M.) to Virginia Water (Wheatsheaf Hofel). There are 1,800 acres !... the Great Park. Eton College is # M. from Windsor. The stone chapel, 175 ft. long, is very landsome. Bronze statue of Henry VI. See the fine library and MSS. There are 1,000 students here. The college was founded in 1440. Stoke Pogis, the scene of Gray's Elegy, and the burial-place of the 152 HAMPTON COURT. — RICHMOND. poet, is near Windsor. Fine monument to Gray in Stoke Park. x- Hampton Court (Kings Arms ; Mitre ; Grey- hound), rly, in # hr. (13 M.), or Thames (24 M.), has an old palace covering 8 acres. It was founded by Cardinal Wolsey, then at the height of his ambition, and presented to Henry VIII., who coveted it. Here also was a favorite residence of both Charles I. and Crom- well. It is now the home of pensioners of the Crown. (State-apartments open daily, except Fri., 10–6, March — Oct.; on Sun., 2–6.) See the Presence Chambers. Galleries of nearly 1,000 paintings,and Wolsey’s great Gothic Hall, hung with tapestries, and covered with a timber roof. Purchase the Stranger's Guide (6d.), which gives full accounts. Kew Royal Botanical Gardens (South Western Rly. ; fares, 1s. 9d., 1s. 4d., 1s. 2d.; time, # hr.) contain the plants and flowers of all countries. (Buy hand-book, 6d.) 3 M. from Kew is Richmond (Star and Garter, famous for cuisine, wines, and high bills), where Edward I. founded a palace, and Queen Elizabeth died. Fine view from Richmond Hill. The Park (2,255 acres) belongs to the Crown and is open to the public. James Thomson and Fdmund Kean are buried in the ch. The Prince of Wales sometimes lives at the White Lodge. Park stocked with nearly 2,000 deer. The foot-paths on either shore afford exquisite views. At Twickenham see Orleans House, the former residence of Louis Phi- lippe ; ch. in which Pope is buried; and Strawberry Hill, Horace Walpole's villa. The Crystal Palace, on high ground at Sydenham, was erected 1853–4, at a cost of $7,500,000. Do not fail to see it. Return fares, including admission (every day except Sat., when admission is 2s. 6d.), 3s., 2s. 3d., ENGLAND. 2. 153 ls. 9d. You can go from London Bridge, Victoria, Kensington, Holborn, or Ludgate Hill stats. The Aquarium, the Aviary, the wonderful Architectural Courts, the Picture Gallery, are worth inspection. Gar- dens very fine; fireworks on summer evenings. Good restaurants attached. (Guide-books, ld., 3d., 1s.) The central hall is 1,608 ft. long, crossed by transepts. The Alexandra Palace (opened 1875), is 6 M. N. of London; 4 hr. from Kings Cross. Admission, ls. It is rectangular, with corner towers, covers 7% acres; and the grounds cover 480 acres. See music hall (seating 12,000), with large organ. Rly. from Alexandra to Highgate (2 M.), in whose picturesque cemetery lie Faraday, S. T. Coleridge, Lord Lyndhurst, and George Eliot. It is an easy walk to Hampstead Heath, 240 acres of breezy highland park, once famous for its highwaymen, and now visited for its beautiful views of London. In Hampstead Ch., Sir James Mackintosh, Joanna Baillie, and Constable, the painter, are buried. Dulwich, 3 hr. by rly, from Victoria stat. (open daily, 10–4), has paintings purchased for King Stan- islaus of Poland, but given to God's Gift College. Works of Murillo, Teniers, Rembrandt, Cuyp, Rubens, Van Dyck, Velazquez, and Titian. Portrait of Mrs. Siddons, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. Greenwich Hospital (6 M. from Charing Cross; fares, 1s., 9d., 6d.; time, 3 hr. Or by steamer in 1 hr. from London Bridge; fares, 6d., 4d.), for old and dis- abled seamen of the Royal Navy, on site of palace where Henry VIII. was born, where he married Anne Boleyn, and where Edward VI died. Hospital open, free, Tues. and Fri. ; on other days, 4d. The Painted FHall ºnd the Chapel open daily, 10–7 in summer. See also Dining Half iſºen, and Royal Naval School. 154 ST. ALBANS. — PUTNEY. — MARGATE. Greenwich Park (174 acres) contains some fine old elms, planted in the time of Charles II. On a little hill stands the Royal Observatory, built in 1675. w Harrow-on-the-Hill is 11; M. (; hr.) from Lon- don. Harrow Ch. stands on an isolated hill, whence grand panorama. Harrow is the location of the second leading public school in the kingdom (founded 1571). In the old schoolroom the names of Byron, Robert Peel, Sheridan, Palmerston, and others are carved on the panels. See the Chapel and the School Library. St. Albans, 21 M. out (3–1 hr.), has a noble Nor- man Abbey Ch., founded by Offa II., King of Murcia, in 795; rebuilt 1077–88, and made a cathedral in 1877. It is 425 ft. long, and has a massive tower (whence fine view); the shrine of St. Alban, the protomartyr of England (A.D. 324); and quaint old chantries and stained windows. 2 battles occurred here in the Wars of the Roses. In St. Michael’s Ch. Lord Bacon is bur- ied. See Roman walls, Gatehouse, and Clock Tower. Putney (Star and Garfer) is quickly reached b steamboat or by rly. Gibbon was born, and Pitt died, here. At Chiswick Fox and Canning died, and Ho- garth is buried. Opposite Putney is Fulham, with a fine old palace and park of the Bishops of London. Lovely river-scenery in this region. To the S. is JWim- bledon, with famous rifle-ranges. Norwich, 126; M. from London (fares, 21s., 16s., 10s. 10d.) has many quaint old buildings and chs., a lofty castle, and a splendid Norman cathedral (founded in 1096). Col. chester and Ipswich, with their fine relics of mediaeval- ism, may be visited on the way to Harwich. Margate (Cliftonville Hotel; White Hart; York), 9 M. from London, is thronged with visitors in sum- mer. Pier 900 ft. long. Principal chs. : St. John’s, Trinity, St. Paul’s. Ramsgate, 4% M. S., is rather 12NGLAND. 155 more aristocratic. Season from June to Nov. Bathing good. Fine pier, commenced in 1750. Eastbourne (Burlington Hotel; Anchor; Albion), 65 M. from Lon- don (express, 16s., 13s., 9s. 6d., 5s), is a favorite watering-place. Grand Parade faces the sea. Hastings (Queen's Hotel, very large; Albion; Royal Marine) is 76 M. from London (return-fares, 25s., 20s.). “St. Leonard’s-on-Sea,” the Belgravia of Hastings (Aler- andra Hotel; Royal Victoria; Gifford's), is the prettiest Watering-place in Sussex. Fine beach, and a pleasant esplanade, with splendid line of houses fronting the sea for 2 M. Castle may be visited. Good view of the old town from the Sea Cliffs or the Pier (900 ft. long). Pavilion, first-class baths, aquarium, reading-rooms, here. Excursions should be made to Battle Abbey, 8 M.; Bexhill, 5 M. ; Catsfield, 3 M. At Battle (Rail- way Hotel; George), battle of Hastings was fought. The grand ruins of Battle Abbey are open Tues., 12–4. Brighton. — It is pleasant to go by a 4-horse coach (tri-weekly, in 6 hrs., 15s.) from the White Horse Cel. lar, in Piccadilly, to the Old Ship Hotel, in Brighton. Rly, lj hr. ; return-fares, 17s.6d, 12s. 6d. Principal | hotels on the sea-front: Grand, Bedford, Norfolk, Royal York, Albion, Old Ship, Markwell's, Queen's, Albemarle, Bristol. Many boarding-houses. Brighton is London by the sea. The attraction is the fine sea-front of 3 M. long. The Brighton Grand Aquarium is the largest in the world. On the E. part of the Promenade is the %ain Pier, 1,136 ft. long. The W. Pier is opposite Regency-Square. Music on the piers. The Royal Pa- tilion, begun in 1784 by the Prince of Wales, is now gºned by the town, and used for public balls, etc. #. and Picture Gallery here. Near are the South 9Yns, 55 M. in length, with a breadth of 4; M. *unbridge wells (Cºlºry Hotel, Mt. Ephraim), is I 56 SOUTHAMPTON. — WINCHESTER. a popular inland watering-place, with chalybeate springs. Bayham Abbey ruins near by. A pleasant excursion may be made along the South Coast from Brighton to Portsmouth (George Hotel ; Star and Garter; Dolphin), a very important naval station. See the Dockyards (open 10–12, 1–3). Order from Admiralty obligatory for foreigners. Off the Dockyard lies the Victory, the old wooden ship in which Nelson died. Southsea (Queen's Hotel; Royal) is a fashionable watering-place near by. See the Common, the Pier, the Esplanade. From Portsmouth passengers may embark for the Isle of Wight. Portsmouth is 72 M. from London (fares, 15s. 6d., 10s. 10d., 6s. 2d.). Southampton (South Western Hotel; Dolphin ; Royal), an important steamship station, 78; M. from London (fares, 15s. 6d., 11s., 6s. 6d.). Boats for the Channel Islands, Harwich, the Isle of Wight, America, and India. In Blue Anchor Lane is King John's Pal. ace, one of the oldest houses in England. Excursion to lovely Netley Abbey, 3 M. (open Mon., Tues., Wed., Fri., and Sat.). You may next go to Salisbury (White Hart Hotel; Red Lion ; Three Swans ; Angel), which contains a noble Cathedral, anong the very first in England. It was founded in 1220, and was the first great English church in the Pointed Style. Exqui- site spire, the highest in England (404 ft.). Cloisters, Chapter-House, and Nave very noticeable. Sculp- tures in Chapter-House from Old Testament history. Statue of Sydney Herbert in the market-place. See Blackmoor Museum. Excursions to Stonehenge, 9 M. N., vast ruins of an ancient Druidic sanctuary; Wilſon House (3 M.), crowded with paintings; and Longford. Winchester (George Hotel; Royal ; Black Swan) is one of the great historical cities of England. The Cathedral (1079–1148), 560 ft. long, nave 265 ft., is the principal attraction. Architecture of Wave very ENGLAND, 157 curious. See Mural Monuments, Font, and Chantry. In the Central Lady Chapel Queen Mary was married to Philip of Spain, in 1554. See Castle, and make ex- cursion to Hospital of St. Cross ; admission, 6d. Fares to London, 66%. M., 13s. 10d., 9s. 9d., 5s. 6d. The Isle of Wight may be reached from South- ampton by steamers to Cowes (in # hr.), or to Ryde. Trains run between Ryde and Ventnor, with branch to Newport, and between Ryde and Cowes. The Isle is 22; M. long, and 14 M. broad. Ventnor and the Under Cliff are recommended to invalids. In summer secure rooms in advance. Ryde (Eagle Inn ; Sivier's ; Pier) has a fine pier, a school of art, and a museum. It is 12 M. to Ventnor, through delightful scenery. On the route is Sandown (Sandown House; King’s Head), a fashionable resort. Sands and bathing good. Shanklin (Daish’s Hotel; Collier's) is a picturesque village. The Chine, near by, is a romantic ravine. Bonchurch, ll M. from Ryde, is very beautiful; John Sterling is buried here. Ventnor (Royal House ; Marine; Esplanade; Crab and Lobster) is much fre- quented. Fares from London to Ventnor, 21s. 2d., läs. 1d., 11s. Return tickets (good for 8 days), 35s. 9d., 26s. 6d., 19s. 9d. Near by is Norris Castle, where the Queen formerly resided; and Osborne House, Where she now and then lives. Newport is 1 M. from Carisbrooke Castle, a grand historic ruin. Bath (Grand Pump Room Hotel; York; White Lion) has the most sumptuously appointed warm baths in i Europe. It is a city of 70,000 inhab., on the Avon, and **.famous as the home of Beau Nash, and the scene 9f Miss Austen's novels. See the stately Abbey Ch. , (1499); Beckford's Tower and tomb; the Guildhall; many fine residences and parks. Excursions to Pºr Park, Lansdown Hill, Hampton Down, and the * of Hinton Abbey. From Bath it is li; M. to 158 BRISTOL. — CARDIFF. — WELLS. Bristol (Royal Hotel; Grand; George), the capital of the West of England, and a very ancient city. It is on the Avon, 7 M. from the sea. Fine docks at the river's mouth. See Redcliffe St. Mary’s Ch., very lovely; the Cathedral (1140), with tombs of Bishop Butler, Southey, and Jane Porter, fine cloisters and chapter- house; College Gafe, the Mayor's Chapel (1220); Bristol Museum ; Clifton, a beautiful suburb; the Sus- pension Chain Bridge (get the views); Wightingale Valley; and Zoological Gardens. Excursions to Blaise Castle ; George Müller's Orphan Asylum (2,050 chil- dren) at Ashley stat. ; and Leigh Court, 4 M. From Bristol you may cross the Bristol Channel to Cardiff (Royal Hofel; Cardiff Arms), a very important Welsh port. See Bute Docks; the Castle; and Sophia Park. Excursions to Caerphilly Castle; Llandoff (with grand old Cathedral); Llanwił; and St. Donat's. From Cardiff you can make an excursion through S. Wales, and it will richly repay. Fares from Cardiff to London (170} M.), 35s. 6d., 25s. ; from Bristol to London (118%. M.), 26s. 1d., 18s. 3d. Devonshire is one of the most interesting parts of England. Tourists can reach Exeter from London in 4–5 hrs. (distance, 171; M.; fares, 35s., 25s., 14s. 3}d.). Or they may go from Bristol to Exeter by Wells (Swan Hofel ; Star; Mitre), which is a perfect eccle- siastical city, with a moated Bishop's Palace, an em- battled Deanery, and a quaint Vicar's Close. The venerable Cathedral is very rich in sculptures, and in every way impressive. Superb Chapter-House. (See local guides.) Glastonbury (George Hofel ; Red Lion) has a ruined Abbey, one of the earliest centres of Christianity in England. King Arthur was buried here. The George Inn was a hostelry for pilgrims in Edward IV.'s time. This is the ancient Isle of Avalon. Get h’illiamson's Guide, ls. See St. John’s and St. | ENGLAND. 159 Benedict's Chs. Exeter (Clarence Hotel; New Lon. don; Half. Moon) has grand Cathedral, built 1107– 1206, with interesting chapels, Minstrels' Gallery, choir, close, and far-viewing tower; the Castle, Norman ruins ; the Elizabethan Guildhall; and Alberá Museum. Plymouth (Duke of Cornwall Hotel; Royal) is rich in objects of interest. See the Hoe, St. Andrew's Ch., the New Guildhall, Athenæum, Raglam Barracks, the Devonport Column. The Eddystone Lighthouse is 14 M. from Plymouth : excursion by steamer. Tor- quay (Imperial ; Royal ; Torbay), is a famous water- ing-place. See the Bay, where the Prince of Orange landed in 1688; Tor Abbey, the Ch., and the Museum. Beautiful drives and walks. Fares to London (220 M.), 40s. 2d., 28s. 5d., 16s. 5%d. Get guides of Devon Coast and Cornwall. Penzance (Queen’s Hotel) is 328 M. from London (fares, 63s.6d., 44s. 6d., 26s, 6%d.). Routes to the Continent. Quickest Routes.— Wia Dover and Calais : 22 M. across Channel. To Paris, 283 M. (fares, £3, £2 5s.). ay service : leave London 7.40 A.M.; arrive at Paris .05 P.M. Night service : leave London 8:05 P.M.; reach Paris 6 A.M. – Wia Polkestone and Boulogne, day tidal service: London to Paris, 255 M.; Chaiinel Passage, 28 M. in 2 hrs. (Fares, £2 16s., £2 2s.; time, # hrs.) There is a cheap night service to Paris via Boulogne or Calais (fares, 2d class 31s. 6d., 3d class 21s). Return tickets, express route, via Dover and 9alais, or Folkestone and Boulogne, £4 15s., £3 15s.; by night service, 47s., 31s. 6d. You will pass, by South Eastern, Chiselhurst, where Napoleon III. died, and where he and his son Louis are buried; and by Chatham ºd Dover, you pass Rochester, which has an antique °rman Cathedral, with interesting chapels and towers, 160 ROCHESTER. — CANTERBURY. — DOVER. and the ruins of a powerful Norman castle, with beauti- ful environs, including Dickens's old home, Gad's Hill. Just beyond is Chatham, with important dock-yards; and Canterbury (Fountain Hofel; Rose; Fleur-de-Lys). The ancient Mercery Lane leads to the famous Cathedral. built 1070–1184, 522 ft. long, with remarkable chapels, monuments, crypts, cloisters, and a very beautiful and lofty central tower. See St. Augustine's College for missionaries, in the ruins of the ancient abbey. Thomas à Becket was killed in the cathedral, and the Black Prince is buried there. At Folkestone (Papilion Hotel; London and Paris) the train stops near the steamers. Dover (Lord Warden Hotel ; Dover Castle; King's Head) is worth half a day’s stay. The Castle, the Keep, the ſateh Tower, the Heights and Batteries, and Shakespeare's Cliff (vide King Lear), deserve attention. Routes Longer and Less Expensive. — Via Newhaven and Dieppe (day and night boats in summer, tidal service). Fares, tickets good for 7 days, 33s., 24s., 17s. Time, 12–13 hrs. Channel passage, 64 M. (5%–7 hrs.). — Wia Southampton and Havre: Mon., Wed., and Fri. (fares, 33s., 24s.). Boats leave South- ampton at 11.45 P.M. Channel and river passage to Havre, 8%–9 hrs.--From London Bridge, across the Channel to Boulogne. — From Dover to Ostend, for those going to Belgium. London to Ostend, 37s. 5d., 26s. 7d. Channel passage, 68 M. (4 hrs.). — From Bondon, via Harwich, to Rotterdam or Antwerp. eave London at 7.10 P.M.; Harwich 9.15 P.M.; reach Rotterdam 8 A.M. Antwerp boat leaves at same time; reaches Antwerp 9 A.M. London to Antwerp or Rot- terdam, 26.s., 21s., 15s. Returns, 40s., 31s. 6d., 24s. Antwerp steamers 3 times weekly; Rotterdam boats #. — From London, via Queenborough, to Flushing daily. NORTHERN FRANCE. 161 NORTHERN FRANCE. THE Ports of Entry in France at which you may arrive from England are described below. Calais (Hotel Meurice; Dessin ; Station) may be seen in 2–3 hrs. The Citadel (1560); the Portes Royale, du Havre, and de la Mer; the old bastion called Le Courgain, are very curious. The English held Calais from 1347 to 1558, when France regained possession. Mary Stuart said the name Calais would be found writ- ten on her heart. The Ch. of Nötre Dame, with a pic- ture by Rubens; the Hôtel de Wille, on the Place d'Armes ; the old Guet Tower; and the Hôtel de Guise (Tudor style), built by Edward III, and his successors, are the principal sights. The Hotel Dessinis mentioned in Sterne's Sentimental Journey. Good sea-bathing in sum- mer. From Calais you may go, via Lille, to Brussels. Boulogne (Hôtel des Bains ; D'Angleferre; Meu- rice ; Du Pavillom), hr. from Calais (ſares, 5 fr. 30 c., 3 fr. 95 c.), is a picturesque town on the Liane, where it enters the Channel. It is a fashionable summer re- sort. The Lower Town has about 6,000 English resi- dents. The Quais; the Pier; the old fishers’ town, with the Ch. of St. Sauveur ; the ancient Porte des Dunes, with a statue dated 1231; the clumsy Cathedral Q/ Wötre Dame; the Château (1230), where Louis Na- poleon was confined in 1840; the Hôtel de Ville; and the great Sea-Bathing Establishment, merit notice. Le Sage, author of Gil Blas, and Godfrey de Bouillon Were born here. On a hill is the Colonne de la Grande 4rmée, built 1804–41. Here Napoleon I. assembled all lºnmense army and fleet for invading England. Pieppe (Royal Hotel; Bristol; Des Bains; Victoria) 11 ... • * 162 HAVRE. is a summer resort of the fashionable world. See the Casino, on the beach; the great Castle (1433); the an- cient Ch. of St. Jacques, patron Saint of fishermen; the piers; and the Statue of Duquesne. The bathing is fairly good. A red flag is hoisted when the tide is favor- able. Ruined castle of Arcques, 4 M. S. E. Carved ivory is a specialty of Dieppe. Havre (Höſel Frascaff ; De l'Amirauté; Du Louvre; De Londres ; De l'Europe; D’Angleterre), once known as Havre de Grace, from a chapel founded by Louis XII. in 1509, is one of the most important seaports in Europe. About 100,000 inhab. Immense American trade. The Docks are remarkable. The Jetée du Nord commands a fine view. From the hill of Ste. Adresse the outlook is charming. The principal things to see are: The Ch. of Nôtre Dame (1574); the Hôtel de Wille; the Palais de Justice ; the Grand Theatre ; the Cus- toms Barracks ; and the Museum (daily, 10–4), on the Place des Pilotes. Bronze statues (by David) of Bernar- din de St. Pierre and Casimir de la Vigne, natives of Havre. The Jardin Publique is pretty. Rue de Paris is the finest street. Steamers weekly to New York. (See * Chapter on Travel.) Opposite Havre, in a pretty bend of the coast (1 hr. by steamer), is Trouville-sur-Mer (Hôtel des Roches Noires, with bathing; De Paris; D'Angleterre; Bellevue), with its fine Casino (admission, 50c.) and beautiful beach. Great number of villas here and at Deauville. Aristocratic resort in Aug. and Sept. Near Trouville is a chapel in which William the Conqueror offered prayer before he set out to conquer England. 1 hr. . rail from Trouville is Honfleur. Etretat, much frequented by painters, and Fécamp, a great bathing resort, with a fine Casino, may be vis- ited from Havre. Fares from Havre to Paris, 28 fr. 10c., 21 fr. 5 c., 15 fr. 45 c. You may go from Havre to NORTHERN FRANCE. I63 Rouen by the Seine, a lovely journey, but very slow (ſares, 5 fr., 4 fr.). Rouen (Hotel d’Albion; D’Angleferre; De France; De la Poste) can be visited on the way to Paris from Havre or Dieppe. It is the fierce commercial rival of Havre, a port of much importance, and historically and architecturally one of the most attractive places in France. This ancient capital of Normandy has great cotton factories and wine depots. (105,000 inhab.) The Cathedral of Nö/re Dame is a magnificent Gothic edi- fice, built 1207–80. The central portal on the W. was erected by Cardinal d’Amboise, the favorite of Louis XII., about 1510. Profuse decorations in florid style. The Buffer Tower (Tour de Beurre) was built With money got from the sale of indulgences to eat butter in Lent. This is 230 ft. high, unfinished, like its twin. The central spire was destroyed by lightning in 1822, and replaced by an ugly cast-iron structure, 465 ft. high. Spiral staircase to the top. The façade (16th Century) contains many remarkable statues and bits of sculptures. In the venerable Tour St. Romain is a charming 15th-century hall. See the Choir; the 25 chapels; the beautiful stained windows, especially the *9&e windows in the nave and transepts; the chapel S. 9f the nave, which contains the tomb of Rollo, the first Duke of Normandy (927); and the chapel oppo- šite, in which William of the Long Sword (d. 943) is buried. In the Chape/ſe du Chris/, near the High lººr, is a mutilated limestone figure, 7 ft. high, of tichard Cºeur de Lion. The heart of the great king is buried in the Choir. Henry II. of England is buried *... Note the monument of the Duc de Brèze, erected J Diana of Poitiers, mistress of Henri II. Monu. ** to, Cardinal d'Amboise also in this chapel. The cathedral was begun in the reign of Jean sans Terre, ºwº 164 ROUEN. and finished in 1477. Interior is 435 ft. long, height of nave 89% ft., 130 windows. The beautiful Ch. of St. Ouen is one of the noblest Gothic structures in Europe. It is cruciform, and dates from 1318. The portal, between two pyramidal towers, is extremely graceful. Central Tower, “the Crown of Normandy,” 285 ft. high. Interior, 453 ft. long by 84 ft. wide. 3 exquisite rose windows; 135 stained-glass windows. This ch. suffered much from the Iconoclasts (in 1562), as also did the bas-reliefs over the entrance of the great cathedral. The Ch. of St. Maclou (15th- 16th centuries) has a very fine stone spire, and a foun- tain by Jean Goujon. Other chs.: St. Patricia (1535), magnificent stained glass of the 16th century, and paint- ings by Mignard and Poussin ; St. Godard, fine mural paintings; St. Gervais, with a crypt of the 4th century. St. Vincent and St. Romain also merit a visit. The Archiepiscopal Palace (1461) and the Hôtel de Ville, which is a remnant of the old Abbey of St. Ouen, should be visited (library, 120,000 vols.). In front of the Hôtel de Ville is an equestrian statue of Napoleon I. Interesting statues of Corneille, Jeanne d'Arc, and Géri- cault. The Palace of Justice (the concierge shows it) is a veritable Gothic chef-d'oeuvre. The room in which the assizes is held has a carved oaken roof, and it was there that the Parliament of Normandy held its sessions. On the l. of the Courtyard is a great Hall, built in 1493 as a merchants’ exchange. It is now the place where lawyers meet their clients to consult. The Museum now contains hundreds of pictures by David, Delacroix, Géricault, Paul Veronese, Poussin, and other celebrated artists. Visit the Rue de la Grosse Horloge, one of the most interesting streets in the city. The old clock- tower, with a gate beneath, dates from 1527. The most interesting section of Rouen is the Place de NORTHERN FRANCE. 165 la Pucelle, where a fountain marks the place on which Joan of Arc is said to have been burned, in 1431. The 15th-century Hotel du Bour/thēroulde fronts on this square. Curious decorations on the tower, and bas- reliefs, one of which shows the Field of the Cloth of Gold. In the Rue Jeanne d’Arc is a Tower (built 1205), named after the heroic maid, and supposed to have been her prison. The Museum of Antiquities is in the cloister of an old convent (1 fr.). The Ceramic and Natural History Museums are close by. The town is very rich in old houses with quaint timber-fronts. The Seine here is a large river, navigable for most ships, and bordered by fine quays. The Cours Boiel- dieu has a statue of Boieldieu, the composer, a native of Rouen. The Seine is crossed by a bridge, adorned With a Statue of Corneille; and by a suspension bridge, at whose end is a Monument to the Abbé de la Salle. The surrounding country is extremely beautiful. Climb the adjacent hills, especially to the Pilgrimage Cº. of Bon-Secours, 2 M. out. Delightful view over Normandy. The service in the ch. is peculiar. Many bretty excursions by steamer on the Seine. Visit the Château of Robert le Diable, near La Bouille. From Rouen to Paris the fares are 16 fr. 75 c., 12% fr., 9.fr. 20 c. Itouen may be easily visited in a day from Paris (ſares, 16% fr., 12% fr., 9 fr. 20 c.), returning in the ſternoon. At Manſes – called “beautiful Mantes”— § {he Gothic Ch. of Nôtre Dame, of the 12th century, "lily sculptured. Junction here for Caen and Cher- *''/. Farther on is Poissy, the birthplace of St. Louis, a lovely town on the Seine, and a favorite resort f artists (great prison here); the Forest of St. Germain, brough which the line passes; Colombes ; St. Germain, Y.'" is palace, may be seen on the r.; and Asnières, a **n suburb, inhabited by commercial people. ::::::::::::::…&#xº~3-3-ºxº~ :=~ ***** 166 AMIENS. — ABBEVILLE. — ARRAS. Amiens (Höfel de l’Univers; Du Rhin) is a great manufacturing town (66,000 inhab.), once the capital of Picardy. See Gothic Cathedral, erected 1220–88, and one of the finest in Europe. The spire (392 ft. high) was restored in 1529. The W. façade is one of . the most beautiful that can be imagined. The 2 towers are decorated with many statues and medallions. In the Porche du Sauveur is a magnificent statue of Christ, commonly called Le Beau Dieu d'Amiens. Few cathe- dral interiors excite such lively admiration for pro- digious vaults, lightness of the columns, and astonishing variety of limes. The nave is 147 ft. high, and 126 columns support its airy vaulting. See organ gallery (1422); 110 s/a//s in the choir, with 3,650 figures; superb rose-window;. stained-glass windows; and the great number of monuments and chapels. The choir- wall is adorned with reliefs from the history of John the Baptist and the life of St. Firmin. Length of the cathedral, 471 ft.; of transept, 213 ft.; width of nave, 144 ft.; towers, 181 ft. and 210 ft. In the rear is a statue of Peter the Hermit, a native of Amiens, who preached the First Crusade. The Picardy Museum con- tains interesting pictures. The new Palace of Justice, and the Prefecture, which has a 15th-century bell-tower, should be seen. About midway between Amiens and Boulogne is Abbeville, which contains many odd 15th and 16th century houses; also the Ch. 0/S/.7 uſ/ran, and a statue to the composer Lesueur. Fares from Amiens to Paris, 16 fr. 10 c., 12 fr. 10 c., 8 fr. 85 c. Rly. connec- tion from Amiens with Arras, Douai, and Lille. Arras (Hôtel de l’Univers; Du Commerce) has a double line of fortifications; a steeple constructed by Vauban in 1670; and a cathedral, which was the old Ch. of the Abbey of St. Voast. Within it are seen fine pictures attributed to Rubens and Van Dyck; and the treasury contains the robe that Thomas à Becket wore when he was assassinated. The great square of Arras is a fine illustration of the pictorial style which prevailed during the Spanish domination. Museum and Public Library. The coast line of N. France is dotted with pleasant summer-resorts and picturesque towns, old and new. From Paris to Cherbourg (fares, 45 fr. 70 c., 34 fr. 25 c., 25 fr. 10 c.), via Caen, is a journey through the inter- esting Norman towns of Evreux (fine cathedral, 11th century, restored in the 18th); Lisieux (cathedral, 1136–1233, in which Henri II. was married, 1152); and Caen (Hôtel d’Angleterre; D'Espagne), population 41,181, the town of which Madame de Sévigné said that it was the source “de flous nos plus beaua esprits.” View from the heights very imposing. See St. Etienne and Trinité Chs. ; the Château, founded by William the Conqueror; the Hotel de Ville, decorated with medallions of celebrated Normans; the Museum (400 paintings); the Academy; the Höffel de Valois ; and the Place Royale, with its statues. You can reach Qaem from Havre by steamer (6 fr., 5 fr.), and go thence to Cherbourg; and thence up to Paris, if de- sired. Cherbourg (Hö/el des Bains; De l'Amirauſſé et de l’Europe), a city of 37,000 inhab., on the peninsula of Cotentin, is the first military port in France, and a Very important fortress. There is little to see beside the docks and fortifications; and, in the Museum, a Pºrtrait of Leonardo da Vinci, painted by himself. |Fine casino. Granville, farther down on the coast, is The port whence the steamers sail for the Channel |Islands. Fares from Paris to Granville, 46 fr. 40 c., lºſt. 30 c., 22 fr. 20c. Still farther down is Mt. Saint ºchel, an imposing granite rock, 2,700 ft. around lººd nearly 200 ft. high, connected with the coast by a di °. The sea surrounds it at high tide. The rock is NORTHERN FRANCE. 167 168 PARIS. §. surmounted by immense fortifications, an abbey, and a ch., with a statue of St. Michael. Pilgrimages have been made here since Louis XI. created St. Michael’s Order, in 1469. St. Malo, near by, was the birth- place of Chateaubriand, and Jacques Cartier, the pioneer in Canada. Dinan is a pretty little town, with old walls and a 15th-century castle. Great numbers of English people winter here. Dinard, 4 M. from St. Malo, has a fine bathing establishment. The line to Brest is close by. Brest, population 66,000, is a military port and fortress. , Vast marine hospital, and barracks. Formidable batteries. Fares, Brest to Paris, 75 fr. 10 c., 56 fr. 35 c., 41 fr. 35 c. On the way see Chartres (Hotel de France; Du Grand Monarque), an ancient city, with celebrated Cathedral, the towers of which can be seen for 25 M. Upon this noble Gothic ch., which was 160 years in building, there are many thou- sands of statues; there are 50 bas-reliefs in the choir, and marvellous stained windows of the 12th and 13th centuries. Henri IV. was consecrated in this ch. in 1594. 2 spires, one 371 ft., the other 340 ft. high. There is a Black Virgin here, much adored. The Crypt is beautiful. Many odd 13th-century houses here. Gen. Marceau was a native of Chartres. The Museum contains a noted picture representing his funeral." Paris. Paris, with the exception of the old sections, is a very easy city in which to find one's way about. In summer street-merchants are always at your elbow with very good maps, with which you can explore the capital, even if you know no French. If you arrive at the Gare du Nord (N. Rly. stat.), and are not encum- bered with baggage, walk down the Rue de Laſayette PARIS. 169 to the Boulevard Haussmann and the Grand Opéra; then turn up the Rue Scribe to the main boulevards, and you will find yourself in the centre of Paris. If you come in from Normandy, you will arrive at the Gare St. La- zare, but a short walk from the boulevards. In the stat. your baggage is examined both for general cus- toms and octroi duties. The examiner says, Avez-vous quelque chose à déclarer?– “Have you anything to specify P” i. e. for duty, Spirits and cigars are the only things about which the officers are strict. A porter will take your trunk or valises, call a cab, install you in it, give you a little card with the cab's number on it, and for this expects about 50 c. (10 cts.). If you have a party, and several large trunks, charter a small private omnibus (always plenty). One that will hold 6 persons costs 6 fr., and no extra charge is made for a reasonable amount of baggage. Driver expects fee. Cabs (Voitures). — The cab system of Paris is simple and convenient. From 6 A.M. until 12.30 P.M. a 1-horse open or closed public carriage for 2 persons costs, according to legally established tariff, l; fr. for single drive; gratuity (pour- boire), rendered obligatory by custom, 25 c.: by the hr., 2 fr. ; pour/oire, 30 c. Each carriage is numbered on the lamps, and the driver is bound to give you a printed ticket, with the number and tariff on it. Cabs for 4 persons cost 2 fr. per drive, and 2% fr. per hr. If you go outside the fortifications you must make special arrangement for time you are outside. From 12.30 night until 6 A.M. the tariff is, for 2-seated cabs, 2} fr. per drive, 2% fr. per hr.; 4-seated, 2% fr. per drive, 2% fr. per hr. The whole of a first hr. (when you engage by the hr.) must always be paid; 4 hrs. thereafter, 50 c. each. Baggage (outside), 25 c. per piece. Livery-stable rates per day and per month for carriages are rather high from May to Aug. ; with a little care a good open carriage for 2 (driver in livery) may be had for 25–30 fr. per day; gratuity to driver. * 170 PARIS. * Horse-cars (called tramways) run on most of the great thoroughfares, except the grand boulevards. They are double- decked; the large ones are very fine. Go to the suburbs upon them rather than by rail or in private carriage. Om- nibuses abound ; there are 32 lines. A ticket taken on one procures you a correspondance gratis on another, until you have reached your destination. Fares inside, 30 c.; above, outside, 15 c. On some streets the tramway cars are moved by steam. On the Seine there are a great many small steamers, called mouches and hironde/les, “flies '' and “swallows.” Fares very cheap. — Circular Railway. The Ceinture is the name of the railway which runs around Paris, within the walls (23 M.). It is useful for 'giving a good idea of the capital’s geography. Round trip in 2 hrs. Hotels. – We give the best, the most central, and suit- able for strangers: Hötel Bristol, Place Vendôme, expensive, aristocratic ; Hotel Continental, Rue de Rivoli and Cas- tiglione, new, splendid, reasonable (this house is on a portion of the site of the Ministry of Finance, burned during the Commune); Hotel du Louvre, Rue de Rivoli; Grand Hôtel, Boulevard des Capucines; Hötel Splendide, Place de l'Opéra; Du Rhin, Place Vendôme; Meurice, h’indsor, Brighton, Rue de Rivoli ; Grand Hôtel St. James, De Lille et d’Albion, De Normandie, Rue St. Honoré ; Westminster, Mirabeau, De la Hollande, Rue de la Paix; De Londres, Dominici, Liverpool, Rue Castiglione ; Chatham, De l'Empire, De l'Amirauté, D'Orient, Rue Daunou (Rue Neuve St. Au- gustin); Bellevue, Des Deua Mondes, and Binda, in the Avenue de l'Opéra; Du Paſais, Cours La Reine; D'A/be, Avenue de l'Alma; De St. Pétersbourg, Rue Caumartin; De l’Athenée, Rue Scribe; De Bade, Boulevard des Italiens; De la Terrasse Jouffroy, Boulevard Montmartre; De Bavière, Rue du Conservatoire; Des Ambassadeurs, Rue de Lille; De Londres, Rue Bonaparte; Du Sénat, Rue de Tournon. Among more modest hotels, good, we may mention the Hötel de la Tamise, Rue d’Alger; De la Couronne, Rue du Dau- phin ; Trois Princes, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs; D’An- fin, Rue d'Antin; IIe/der, Rue du Helder; Byron, Rue PARIS. 171 Laffitte; Du Canada, Rue de Choiseul; De France, Rue de Beaune; Des Etrangers, Rue Racine. Boarding-Houses (or Pensions). — Of these there are many. Prices, 10-15 fr. daily. We give the addresses of a few, frequented chiefly by Americans: Madame Mutens, 29 Boulevard Haussmann ; M. and Mme. Pincet, 35 Rue Cambon; Mrs. Defone, 52* Boulevard Haussmann; Prof. Tomnst, same address; Miss Ellis, 28 Rue Bassano; Miss Campbell, 61 Avenue de Friedland; Mrs. Scofield, Avenue de Jena; Family Home, 118 Boulevard Haussmann; Hôtel Dijon, 29 Rue Caumartin. Furnished Single Rooms can be had in all quarters of Paris, at from 40 to 125 fr. per month. Furnished suites of rooms (in French appartement signifies a suite) from 250 fr. per month upwards. Unfurnished Apart- ments : apply to John Arthur & Co., 10 Rue Castiglione, house agents. See the local American journals, the Parisian, the Register, the Continental Gazette, or the English Gally- mani, for other particulars. Restaurants and Cafés. - Café Voisin, Rue St. Ho- nore; Café Anglais, 13 Boulevard des Italiens; Café Riche, 16 same street; Maison Dorée, 20 same street; Bignon, 32 Avenue de l'Opéra; Noël-Peters, Passage des Princes; Brébant, 31 Boulevard Poissonnière ; Marguery, 34 and 36 Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle; Bonvalet's, Boulevard du Temple; Café de la Pair, near the Grand Opera; Maire, 14 Boulevard St. Denis; Café de Paris, 41 Avenue de l'Opéra; Wian (favorite resort for Americans), Rue Daunou ; Gaillon, Place Gaillon; Taverne de Londres, 1 Rue Grétry; Morel, 8 Rue Favart; Ledoyen, in the Champs Elysées; Champeaua, 13 Place de la Bourse; Durand, 2 Place de la Madeleine; Magny, 3 Rue Muzet; Foyot, 33 Rue de Tournon; Lucas (English cookery), 9 Place de la Madeleine ; Hill, Boulevard des Capucines. These are all & la carte. The 8 first men- tioned are rather expensive; the others more moderate. In the Palais Royal and the Passage des Panoramas, and on the Boulevard Montmartre, are several restaurants where break- fasts and dinners at fixed prices may be had. At the Diner de Paris, 12 Boulevard Montmartre, breakfast is 3 fr.; dinner, 172 PARIS. 5 fr. Wine is always included in fixed-price dinners. The Diner Européen is very good: breakfast, 3 fr. ; dinner, 5 fr. In the Palais Royal there are numerous restaurants that give breakfast at 1 fr. 75 c. ; dinner, 2 fr. 25 c. to 2 fr. 50 c. The Duval Establishments, & la carte, are cheap and good; women attendants. The Crémeries, or dairies, are capital places in which to get your coffee in the morning. The Parisians breakfast 10.30–1, and dine 6–8. We cannot men- tion one third of the principal cafés, but will recommend the Cafés de la Pair, Tortoni, Grand, Américain, Helder, Madrid, Riche, Varietés, De Paris, Napolitain. In the Bois, restaurants: Pavillon d'Armenonville, la Cascade, Madrid. Ladies may visit most of the cafés mentioned above, except the Américain, in the evening. : General Information. — The American Legation is at No. 6 Place des Etats Unis; present Minister, Hon. Levi P. Morton. The Consulate of the United States is No. 3 Rue Scribe; present Consul, Hon. George Walker. American church services: Rue de Berry, 21; Avenue d'Alma. The Latin Quarter, S. of the Seine, has for centuries been devoted to universities, colleges, and schools of all kinds. Many thousands of students reside there all the time. The Students’ Ball, called the Closerie des Lilas, or Bullier, is at the Carrefour de l'Observatoire. There are three principal race meetings in Paris, in April, May, and September. The spectacle in the Bois de Boulogne when the Grand Prix (the principal summer race) is run, should not be missed. The principal prize is 100,000 fr. We would suggest that you start from the Place de la Concorde, walk up the Rue Royale to the Ch. of the Madeleine (Magdalen), and then follow the line of the grands boulevards to the Place, de la Bastille. You may go on an omnibus-top for 3 sous, or in an open carriage for 1 fr. 75 c.; but we say walk. Boulevard means bulwark; and these fine streets were called so because they are on the line of the old fortifications. PARIS. 173 Nowadays the term is loosely applied to any large new avenue. You pass up the boulevards, – De la Made- leine; Des Capucines (this is in mid-Paris; here are the Grand Hotel, the Opera, the Grand Café, the Jockey Club, the American Exchange, and the Rue Scribe); Des Italiens (brilliant with theatres and restaurants); Montmartre (splendid cafés and shops); Poissonière; Bonne-Nouvelle; St. Denis (see the old city gates, very fine); St. Martin ; Du Temple ; Des Filles du Cal. vaire; Beaumarchais, – and you are at the Bastille, i. e. the square where the celebrated prison stood. Whole length of this line of streets, 23 M. Return by the Faubourg St. Antoine, and the Rue de Rivoli, past the Tuileries, to the Place de la Concorde, whence you started. The exterior boulevards run from near the Arc de Triomphe, at the Ternes, around to the quays of Bercy on the Seine, through La Villette and Belle- ville, the workmen’s quarters. Tramways here. The Boulevards du Strasbourg, Sébastopol, Du Palais, and St. Michel form a continuous avenue from the Eastern Rly. stat. across the city to the Observatory. A walk from one end to the other is extremely interesting. The Boulevard Malesherbes runs from the Madeleine to the fortifications, and the Boulevard Haussmann from the Avenue de Friedland to the Rue Taitbout. Morning walks on these avenues, and on the 12 streets radiating from the Arc de Triomphe, give an idea of New Paris. The Isle de la Cité, and on which Paris began, should have an early visit. Nôtre Dame, the cathedral of the Archbishop of Paris, was built in 1163–82, on the site of a 4th-century ch. It is 417 ft. long, 156 wide, and 110 high. Twin towers, 264 ft. The façade (13th century), with its rich Gothic sculptures and crowds of statuary over the portals, is very imposing. The carvings over the central entrance represent the Last & 174 NôTRE DAME. — PALAIS DE JUSTICE. Judgment. Entrance by the 1. portal. In the Revolu- tion, in 1793, the ch. was converted into a “Temple of Reason.” During the Commune it was a military depot. Most of the sculptures were broken at the time of the Revolution. Choir completed, 12th cen- tury; W. portion, in 13th. The interior, with its nave and double aisles, is majestic. . Many famous prelates are buried in the choir-chapels. , 75 pillars support the vaulting. Splendid rose-windows in the transept. 37 chapels. Fine pulpit, by Viollet-le-Duc, in the nave. The Treasury (fee, #fr.) may be inspected. The robe in which Archbishop Darboy was shot by the Com- munists is shown. To ascend the towers (fee, 20 c.), go round to N. side of l. front tower, and ring the bell. In the S. tower is the huge Bourdon bell. Note the curiously carved figures of men and animals on the roof. The effect of the iſing buttresses below is very strik- ing. See Victor Hugo’s Wötre Dame de Paris, for an eloquent description of the cathedral. The view from the towers is the best in Paris. In a bright summer-day it is bewildering, from its very vastness. Just behind Nôtre Dame is the Morgue, or Dead House, where you may view unclaimed bodies. It is open to the public. From the cathedral’s top observe the new Hôtel Dieu, an immense hospital; the Fontaine Nôtre Dame, the Place du Parvis, and the Flower Market. The old Hö- tel Dieu (660) has been demolished. While you are in the Cité, go to see the Palais de Justice (magnificent new additions); and the prison of the Conciergerie, where Marie Antoinette and so many other victims of the Revolution were imprisoned. The Palais de Justice is open daily, except Sundays; and here most of the Courts of Justice may be visited (guide, 1–2 fr.). The Cour d’Honneur is very fine, The great Hall of the Lost Steps, 255 ft. long, is where PARIS. 175 mystery-plays were performed. See Hugo’s Wötre Dame. The Sainte Chapelle (open daily 12–4, except Mon. and Fri.) is a nobly beautiful specimen of Gothic (1245–48). Note the magnificent stained glass filling the sides of the Upper Chapel. The Mass of the Holy Ghost is celebrated here once a year. Opposite the Palais de Justice is the Tribunal de Commerce, a beauti- ful Renaissance building, 1860–66 (open daily). Ob- serve the old Clock Tower of the Palais de Justice, one of the few remnants of the original edifice. See the Place Dauphine, and the equestrian Statue of Henri IV. near by. Good view of the Louvre from the Pont Neuf. Churches of Interest. — The Pantheon (1764– 90), on high ground, on the spot where Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris, was buried in 512. The Con- stituent Assembly made a Pantheon out of it; and the Catholics did not regain their place of worship until 1851. Inscription still on the pediment: Aur grands hommes la patrie reconnaissante. Noble dome (272 ft.); ascend it for view. Interior decoration of dome, by Gros, fine. Portico of 22 Corinthian columns, 81 ft. high. Small fee for admission to crypts, where are the tombs of Voltaire, Rousseau, Lannes, Bougainville, and other moted men. St. Etienne du Mont (1517), near the Pan- theon, has interesting old monuments and paintings. The Polytechnic School is in the rear. St. Germain l'Auxerrois is opposite the Louvre front. From its belfry the signal for the massacre of St. Bartholomew was sounded. Note the oval arches of the porch (1435). Façade 15th and 16th centuries. Rich modern frescos and interesting chapels inside. St. Germain des Prés is on Rue Bonaparte ; built 1001–1163, as the ch. of a powerful abbey. Inside are admirable and extensive frescos by the celebrated Flandrin; ancient monu- ments in choir and nave. St. Eustache is near thre - V - # - - 176 THE MADELEINE. Halles Centrales (1532–1637); Gothic, with Grecian W. front. Interior beautifully decorated. Suffered much damage in the Commune, when it was used as a “Club.” Remarkable marbles. St. Roch, on Rue St. Honoré. Exterior plain, interior rich; famous music. Here Napoleon 1. planted his cannon, and blew the French Revolution into space; vide Carlyle. — Notre Dame de Lorette, Rue de Chateaudun, is the ch. that Thiers was buried from. The Trini/6, Place of same name; new (1867), very elegant and rich. St. Vincent de Paul, Rue de Lafayette. — The brilliant new Russian Ch., near the Parc de Monceaux. Inter- esting service here. The Val de Gráce, Rue St. Jacques, wonderfully decorated with paintings by Mignard. St. Sulpice, S. of the Seine, a vast and richly decorated ch., with towers 230 ft. high, and statues of Sts. Peter and Paul. La Sorbonne, adjoining the great university, contains the Tomb of Cardinal Richelieu. The Madeleine, the most beautiful edifice in Paris, is in the style of a Greek temple, 354 ft. long, 141 wide, and 100 high, surrounded by Corinthian columns. In the colonnade are niches containing figures of Saints. Cou- ture contributed to the designs. The pediment, 120 × 25, represents the Last Judgment. The bronze doors are subjects from the 6;f Testament. On Grand Altar, the Assumption, in white marble; and painting of Magdalen at the feet of Christ. Flower-market on each side of the ch., Tues. and Fri. Very fine music, Sun. St. Augustin, Boulevard Malesherbes, contains many fine paintings. –The Chapelle Expiatoire, Rue d’Anjou, is to the memory of Louis XVI. and his Queen, and other victims of the Revolution. The new Ste. Clotilde, Place Bellechasse (cost, $1,600,- 000), and St. Pierre de Montmartre, are worth seeing. The Chapel of the Hotel des Invalides is interesting; military mass, Sun. 11 A.M. ------———=~~~~~~ºrº PARIS. 177 The Palaces. – The best place from which to see the imposing front of the Louvre is the park before St. Germain. The Colonnade was constructed in 1685, on the E. façade. The central portion of this front is known as the Pavillon Henri Quatre. See statues of Napoleon I.’s generals on the Rohan Pavilion. The interior courtyard is an architectural marvel. See the 86 colossal statues of illustrious Frenchmen in the Square du Louvre. The entrance to the Museums, which are among the richest and most remarkable in Europe, is through a door on the l., coming from the Cour du Louvre, under the Sully Pavilion, and through the Pavillon Denon, in the middle of the N. façade of the building erected by Napoleon III. Collections open, free, daily, except Mon., in summer, 9–5; in winter, 10–4. A few of the sculpture rooms and col- lections of antiquities are not opened until 1 P.M. Guides 2 fr. an hr., but the catalogues will enable most visitors to find their way about. The Venus of Milo, the Fettered Slaves of Michael Angelo, the Mona Lisa of Leonardo da Vinci, and a noble group of the works of Raphael, Titian, and Veronese are the chief treasures. In one gallery there are 21 large pictures by Rubens. The Salon Carré contains the most striking works of art. There are 2,000 paintings in the Louvre. See the Apollo Gallery (Henri IV.), with plafond by Delacroix. The Marine and Chinese Museums should not be omitted. The Palace of the Tuileries, begun in 1564 by Philibert de Lorme for Catherine de Médicis, has for 10 years or more lain in ruins. It was almost entirely destroyed during the Communal insurrection of 1871. The whole front was so utterly ruined that restoration was considered out of the question. The Pavillon de Flore and the Gallery on the Seine bank unite the Louvre with the 12 178 PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG. Tuileries. Fine sculptures by Cavelier and Carpeaux. The courtyard is the Place du Carrousel. It takes its name from a carousal, or ball, held there by Louis XIV. in 1662. The Triumphal Arch which stands here is an imitation of the Arch of Severus at Rome, and was erected by Napoleon I. to commemorate his victories of 1805–6. It was originally crowned with the horses taken from the portal of St. Mark’s Ch. in Venice, but these were sent back to Italy by the Emperor Fran- cis in 1814, Bonaparte, when French Consul, lived there; and Louis XVIII., Charles X., Louis Phi- lippe, and Napoleon III. made it their home. Read Carlyle’s account of the attack on the Tuileries by a mob of 40,000 rioters in 1792. In front of the pal- ace is the Tuileries Garden, 2,340 ft. long, which extends to the Place de la Concorde, and in summer is a delightful resort, thronged with people. Military concerts there every evening. The Terrasse des Feuil- lants, on the N. side, is a pleasant promenade. The Palais du Luxembourg was built 1615–20, and enlarged in 1804. It was once a royal habitation, a prison during the Revolution, the palace of the Directory and the Consulate, and is now the meet- ing-place of the Senate of the Republic. Chapel and museum open daily (except Mom.), 10–4. . The Little Lua embourg, supposed to have been built by Marie de Médicis, is near by. The collections were (until 1875) next in importance to the Louvre. The Luxembourg Museum was long the halting-place for pictures of dis- tinguished native artists. Galleries of paintings open daily (Mon. excepted), 9–5 in summer; Sun. and Fri., 10–4. In the garden, where military music is played on Sun., Tues., and Thurs. afternoons, there is a fine fountain, and statues of celebrated Frenchwomen. The Palais Royal is always interesting to strangers. PARIS. e 179 It was built 1625–34 for Cardinal Richelieu. The famous ſºlº which now form such a charming promenade, and are filled with attractive shops, were built by Philippe-Egalité. The Theatre of the Comedie Française is attached to the palace. In the garden, military music in summer evenings. The Palais de l'Elysée, having façades on the Faubourg St. Honoré and the Champs Elysées, is at resent the residence of the President of the Republic. t was built in 1718, and restored under Nº. I. Fine old garden on the Champs-Elysées side. The Palais Bourbon, in which the Corps Législatif held its sessions under Napoleon III., was built for the Duchess of Bourbon in 1722. Fine lººk fronting on the Seine, with 12 Corinthian columns and flight of steps decorated with colossal statues. The Hôtel de la Présidence is near by. The Palace of the Legion of Honor (1786) was partly destroyed in May, 1871. The Palais de l'Industrie stands in the centre of fine gardens on the 1. as you walk up the Champs Elysées. This immense structure was º in 1852– 55 by a company, and used for the first Universal Iºxhibition in Paris. It belongs to the government; and most of the great fairs of competitive festivals, as well as the annual exhibition of modern paintings and sculptures, called the Salon, lasting from May to July, are held there. In the Avenue Montaigne is the Palais Pompeien, built for Prince Napoleon after the one of Diomed at Pompeii. Admission, 1–2 fr. The Palace of the Institute, on the site of the old Hôtel de Nesle, was completed in 1662. It is an odd structure, with a Corinthian porch adorned with figures of lions and with fountains. During the Revolution it was a prison. The five academies hold their sessions here. The annual meeting of the five departments 180 BOIS DE BOULOGNE. combined is held in Aug. in the Great Hall. 2 fine libraries. The Mazarine Library (200,000 vols.) is open to the public 10–4 (except Sun.). r s The Palais des Beaua-Arts, in the Rue Bonaparte, is the seat of the School of the Fine Arts, founded in 1648 (open daily, 10–4; fee, 1 fr.). On the railing which separātes the court from the Rue Bonaparte are colossal busts of Puget and Poussin. Near the Inva- lides, in Rue de Grenelle, is the Archbishop’s Palace. The quaint mediaeval Hôtel de Cluny (founded about 1500), Rue du Sommerard, contains about 4,000 objects in marble, wood, stone, ivory, enamels, terra- cotta, prints, stained glass, pottery, etc. (catalogue at the door). The old Palais des Thermes, which fronts on the Boulevard St. Michel, was built by Constantius Chlorus and by Julian the Apostate, who has left on record his predilection for spending part of his time in his “dear Lutetia’’ (open daily, 11–4.30). The Musée Municipal, at the Hôtel Carnavalet, Rue Sévigné, can be visited with an order. A library of 45,000 vols., composed of works relative to the history of the city of Paris, is here. The interesting Artillery Museum is at the Hôtel des Invalides (open Tues., Thurs., and Sun. in summer, 12–3). The Mint Museum, on the Quai Conti, may be visited Tues. and Fri. (12–3), by order. Parks and Gardens. – The Bois de Boulogne is the chief park of the French capital, and comprises a tract of about 2,250 acres, of which 70 are artificial lakes, just opposite the fortifications, and extending along the banks of the Seine. The Bois is connected with the Champs Elysées by several magnificent ave- nues; and the principal one, the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne, is 4,200 ft. long and 315 ft. wide. The drive Around the Lake is the rendezvous of the fashion of the capital, in winter from 3 to 5 o'clock, and of PARIS. 181 strangers from all parts of the world in summer from 5 to 8 o’clock. The Cascade; the Field of Longchamps, on which races and reviews are held ; the Jardin d'Acclimatation (Zoêlogical gardens); the Botanical. Garden of La Muette; the Allée des Acacias, on the borders of this park; the pretty suburbs of Passy and Auteuil; and the towns of Boulogne, Suresnes, and St. Cloud, - are the principal objects of interest. E. of Paris is the Bois de Vincennes, a vast woody tract, which furnishes a delightful breathing- lace for the Parisians. The Château (open Sat., 12–4, |. order from Commandant) was built in 1164, and is a strong fortress, containing barracks and arsenal, and a military school. There is a monument to the Duc d'Enghien ; and from the Donjon, a square tower 190 ft. high, a fine view may be enjoyed. The chapel was founded in 1379. r The Buttes Chaumont is a picturesque park of 55 acres, in the Belleville quarter. In the centre is an island bearing a reproduction of the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. Great battle near here on the 30th of May, 1814. The Parc de Monceaux may be entered from the Rue de Courcelles. It covers 18 acres, and is surrounded by magnificent residences of wealthy Parisians. Great numbers of Communists were exe- cuted here at the close of the insurrection. The Champs-Elysées is a world-famous prome. made. The illumination on the 14th of July (national fète) is a superb spectacle. Most of the Café. Concerts of importance have summer theatres here. The Jardin des Plantes, easily reached by omnibus or by river steamboat, is open daily from 10 till dark. The fine Menagerie is open daily in summer, 10–5; the Galleries, containing the collections, on Tues. and Sun. afternoons; library daily, 10–3. Botanic Garden here, one of the pleasantest promenades in the city. 182 JULY COLUMN. — ARC DE TRIOMPHE. The Place de la Concorde, one of the finest squares in the world, is a good starting-point for any excursion about Paris. In the centre is the Obelisk of Lua or, given to Louis Philippe by the Pasha of Egypt. It is 76 ft. high, and weighs 240 tons. On either side is a handsome fountain. Arranged about the Place are 8 stone figures, representing the chief towns of France. On the statue of Strasbourg the visitor may generally observe a mourning wreath. The Germans §. here in 1871. In 1792–99, 3,000 people perished here on the guillotine. Louis XVI. was executed near cen- tral gate of Tuileries garden. — The Place de la Bastille has in its centre the July Column, 153 ft. high, with figure of Liberty. See Place du Château d’Eau, Place du Chaffelet, Place Louvois, and Place Dauphine. On the Place du Pont St. Michel there is a fine fountain, with a bronze statue of Michael overcoming the Dragon. On the Place St. Georges stands the house in which Thiers lived during the latter years of his life. In the centre of the Place de l'Etoile, at the top of the Champs- Elysées, stands the noble Arc de Triomphe de l'Étoile, begun in 1806 by Napoleon I., and finished in Louis Philippe's reign, at a cost of $2,000,000. The structure is 160 ft. high, 146 ft. wide, and 72 ft. deep. The vast arch is 67 ft. high and 46 ft. wide. On the sides are groups representing the Napoleonic campaigns. Names of nearly 150 battles appear on the vault. Spiral staircase of 261 steps to platform at top, whence a grand view. From the Triumphal Arch to the Porte Maillot runs the Avenue de la Grande Armée. . In the Place Vendôme is a column 140 ft. high, surmounted by a statue of Napoleon I., in costume of a Caesar. The original column, pulled down in 1871, was made of cannon taken from the Austrians. Notice curious old heads over the houses round §§§ il-4-JŌ---+--> + **~*~*~ ~~' ：-（~~~~<<~*~~~~—~~~~）__） PARIs. 183 the Square. The Place Louvois, near the National Library; the Place de la Bourse, where stands the , Bourse, or Exchange (from a gallery in which visitors * can notice the curious financial crush from 12 to 3); the Square Montholon, on the Rue Lafayette; the - Esplanade, in front of the Invalides; the Champs de . Mars, where two great exhibitions have been held ! | (reached by boat down the Seine, or omnibus to the Pont d'Jéna); the Trocadéro Gardens, now crowned with a superb palace used for historical collections and for musical concerts; the Place Clichy, at the head of the street of the same name; and the Place du Trône, – hould not be forgotten by the visitor. The Place de rève, where the stake and the scaffold were erected so ten in the 15th and 16th centuries, is now called the lace de l’Hôtel de Wille ; and directly in the rear of it is the new City Hall, a magnificent structure, erected n the ruins of the one burned to the ground by the ommunists, May 24, 1871. With the old building, 533–1628, a library of 100,000 vols. was consumed. !he new Hôtel de Ville is ornamented with hundreds 9f statues. The Place de la Roquette is a gloomy square, in front of the prison to which criminals are transferred When they are sentenced to death. Many notorious exe- cutions occurred on this Place. In the Place des Victoires . see the clumsy statue of Louis XIV. ; the statues of Jeanne d'Arc, on the Rue de Rivoli, in the Place des Pyramides; and that of Marshal Ney at the Observatory. The Porte St. Martin and the Porte St. Denis, on the Boulevard St. Denis, are triumphal arches, erected in 1674 and 1672 respectively, to commemorate the victories of Louis XIV. in Holland and on the Lower Rhine. The allied armies, when they entered Paris in 1814, passed through the Porte St. Martin, just as the German armies entered under the Arc de 184 THE PASSAGES OF PARIS. Triomphe in 1871. Near these 2 arches there were sanguinary conflicts in the insurrections of 1830, 1848, and 1871. One of the most formidable barricades, and one most fiercely defended by the Communists in 1871, was near the Porte St. Martin. On the Square St. Jacques, which occupies a portion of the site of the old Ch. of St. Jacques la Boucherie, is a beautiful tower (1508–22), 160 ft. high. Magnificent view from the top; statue of Pascal, by Cavelier, in a crown of the arch. Great number of other statues on the monument. The Square Monge contains a statue of Voltaire. See in the Square du Temple the group of lime-trees under which Louis XVI. used to sit when he was a prisoner. The Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers, opening on the Rue St. Martin, has a magnificent industrial school. Collections most extensive of their kind in Europe (open 10–4; 'Sun., Tues., Thurs., free; Mon., Fri., Sat., 1.fr.); articles are all labelled. See Reſectory of the old abbey. The handsome Gothic Hall is now a library, 20,000 vols. (open to students, 10–3, 7.30–10 daily). The Fontaine de l'Observatoire is ornamented with columns bearing vases, and statues of Morning, Noon, Evening, Night. See Fontaine Cuvier, in the Jardin des Plantes; Fontaine Gaillon, in the Place of the same name; Fontaine de Grenelle, one of the finest in the city; the Fontaine des Innocents, in Square of same name; Fontaine Louis le Grand; Fontaine Molière, entrance to the Rue Molière; Fontaine Richelieu, in the | Square Richelieu; Fontaine Nôtre Dame; Fontaine St. Sulpice; and the Fontaine de la Victoire. £he Passages, or arcades, of Paris should not escape the stranger's attention. The most noticeable are the Passages Jouffroy, des Panoramas, de l'Opéra, des Princes, on the grand boulevards; the Choiseul, Rue des Petits Champs; Passage Verdean, a continua- t | PARIS. 185 B 9i | || tion of the Jouffroy; Passage du Saumon, in the Rue Montmartre; Passage Vivienne, from the Rue Vivienne; Passage du Havre, from the Rue Caumartin to the Rue St. Lazare. Beware of beggars and people who offer their services in these arcades. In the Rue de Richelieu and the Rue Vivienne are some of the finest shops, most frequented by the fashionable world in Paris. Good shopping streets are the Rues de la Paix, Castiglione, De Rivoli, Du 4 Septembre, St. Ho- moré, De la Chaussée d’Antim. Prices are generally higher on the grand boulevards than on the side streets. Cemeteries. – There are 14 within the walls. The most noticeable is Père-la-Chaise. Here the Com- munists made their last stand, and from the hill-top | bombarded the neighborhood of the Place de la Con- | corde. See graves and tombs here of Héloïse and Abélard; Alfred de Musset; the composers Bellini, | Grétry, Boieldieu, Cherubini, Rossini, and Chopin; of Bernardin de St. Pierre, Talma the tragedian, Dupuy- tren, Beaumarchais, Manuel and Béranger in the same tomb, Benjamin Constant, Racine, Molière, Lafontaine, | Balzac, Eugène Delacroix, Thiers, Marshal Ney; Cle- ment Thomas and Le Comte, the first victims of the Commune; and in the Jewish Cemetery (closed on | Sat.) the tombs of Rachel and the Rothschilds. See | Prison of La Roquette, in which the Archbishop and other hostages were executed by the Communists. | The Montmartre Cemetery has the graves of Hein- rich Heine, Cavaignac, Halevy, Théophile Gautier, Gozlan, Mürger, Horace Wernet, and Troyon. On the Boulevard Montrouge is the Montparnasse Cemetery. Visit the Picpus Cemetery, Rue Picpus, where are the tombs of Lafayette and many members of the old French nobility, victims of the Revolution. See at end of burial-ground the Cemetery of the Guillotined, where zºº.º. 186 HôTEL DES INVALIDES. 1,300 persons, executed at the Barrière du Trône, are buried. Fortifications.—Paris is surrounded with ramparts (cost, $28,000,000), with 94 bastions, and 21 M. long. They are 32 ft, high, with parapet 19 ft. wide, moat 48 ft. wide, and a glacis. Since the war of 1870–71 the system of fortifications has been greatly enlarged. The approaches to Paris are now commanded by 16 detached forts, none of them farther than 2 M. from the city. Mont Valerien is the most imposing and pic- turesque. Those near St. Denis and on the l. bank of the Marne and Seine are best worth visiting. The Hôtel des Invalides is S. of the Seine, in the S. W. portion of the city, and easily reached from the Place de la Concorde. It was founded in 1670 by Louis XIV. for the veterans of the army. There are at present about 500 inmates, although the build- ing was intended to accommodate 5,000. The dome of the Ch. of the Invalides, which can be seen from a long distance, was gilded in the time of Napoleon I. The façade of the great edifice is 660 ft. long. In front of the wings are groups in bronze by Desjardins. Over the principal entrance stands an equestrian figure of Louis XIV. On the Esplanade is the “Triumphal Battery,” used in firing salutes on great occasions. Most of the guns are trophies. See the Cour d’Hon- neur, painted with scenes from various French warlike epochs, the Reſectories, Library, the Salle du Conseil, the Artiſlery Museum, and the Ch., in which is the Tomb of Napoleon I., directly beneath the dome (entrance to the dome Mon., Tues., Wed., and Fri., 12–3, free). Above the entrance to the crypt are inscribed the words from the Emperor's last will : “I desire that my ashes may repose on the banks of the Seine, among that French people I have so PARIS. 187 well loved.” Note the bas-reliefs by Simart; colos- sal victories by Pradier; the sarcophagus, which weighs 67 tons; the decoration of the tomb; and the monument of Vauban and Turenne. In a chapel on the l. is the tomb of Jerome Bonaparte; on the r., the sarcophagus of Joseph Bonaparte, once King of Spain. The Hôtel des Invalides is shown daily from 12–3, except Sun. (small fee). Walk hence to the Ecole Militaire, founded in 1751 by Louis XV. A noble building; admission by special order. A great number of executions of Communists here. Operas and Theatres. – The majority of the Paris theatres are closed in summer, but tourists will wish to visit the Grand Opera, or National Academy of Music, and the Théâtre Français, which are open the year round. The new Opera House was built 1861–74, and is the largest theatre in the world, cov- ering nearly 3 acres, but seats less people (2,156) than La Scala or San Carlo in Italy. The façade is exceedingly rich in statuary. On the r. notice the celebrated group of La Danse by Carpeaux. The 7 others represent music, lyric and idyllic poetry, declamation, song, drama, and lyric drama. Note the medallions and busts of composers. The grand stair- case of white marble, with balustrades of red antique marble and hand-rails of Algerian onyx, is the finest in Europe (see local guides for description). To gen- tlemen we recommend the Stalles de Parterre, 7 fr. ; to families, if economy be an object, the Troisièmes, 8 fr. Ladies not admitted to the orchestra stalls, except occasionally on Sat. The Amphitheatre is the choice part of the house. All this quarter of Paris is illumi- nated by electricity. At the other end of the Avenue de l'Opéra is the Théâtre Français, the rank of which is well known. Founded in 1600, it was under 188 OPERAS AND THEATRES. Molière's superintendence until his death. The lobby contains statues of Voltaire, George Sand, and other celebrities (good seats here, 7–10 fr.). Paris is the home of genteel comedy; and the theatres where it can be best seen are the Français, the Vaudeville, and the Gymnase. For light opera go to the Opéra Comique (good seats, 7–12 fr.). The Odéon ranks next to the Français, and there, as at the leading theatre, classical drama is often produced. For opera bouffe go to the Renaissance, the Bouffes Parisiens, or the Folies Dramatiques. The Variétés has a specialty of broad vaudevilles and comedies. The Palais Royal is the recognized temple of broad comedy and of those light buffooneries played nowhere so well as in Paris. The Gaîté, the Chatelet, the Des Nations, the Ambigu-Comique, and the Porte St. Martin are mainly devoted to spec- tacles, fairy pieces, and ballets. For other theatres (too numerous to mention; Paris has more than 50) see daily papers or the English, papers. The Summer Circus is in the Champs Elysées. There are three Winter Circuses. The Conservatoire du Musique, now |. over by Ambroise Thomas, is in the Rue du aubourg Poissonnière. Concerts here from Jan. to April. There are few concerts, except those in the open air, from May to Oct. The Jardin Mabille, Avenue Montaigne, and Bullier, the students’ ball in the Latin Quarter, are open all summer. Masked balls in winter only. Those who are fond of horse-racing can see plenty of it in the Bois, at Auteuil, and Long- champs, and at Chantilly between Feb. and July. The Gobelins, or government manufactory of tap- estry, 40 Avenue des Gobelins, was nearly destroyed in 1871, but still merits a visit. The reputation of the Gobelins tapestry is well known. Workshops open on Wed, and Sat., 2–4; catalogue, fr. The National PARIS. 189 Printing-Office, the Sorbonne, and the Collége de France, not far from the Cluny Museum; the Ecole de Médecine, with the Musée Dupuytren and that of Comparative Anatomy; lyceums or schools in various quarters; Ar- chives, just N. of the Hôtel de Ville (visitors, 10–3); the National Library (2,000,000 vols.) in the Rue de Richelieu (see local guides); the beautiful St. Geneviève Library (120,000 vols. and 35,000 MSS.), Place du Panthéon; the Halles Centrales, vast pavilions cov- ering many acres, reached from the Rue Montmartre or Boulevard Sébastopol, - can be visited in odd hours. Central Markets should be seen between 4 and 6 A.M., when the country people have assembled their produce. The Halle aua Blés is in the Rue de Wiarmes. The Halle aur Wins, or the wine depot of the city, is next the Jardin des Plantes; 20 million gallons can be stored there. The Abattoirs, or slaughter-houses, cover 67 acres, and 1,000 persons are employed there. The Hospitals of the Hôtel Dieu ; Beaujon, Fau- bourg St. Honoré ; La Charité, Rue Jacob ; La Pitié, Rue Lacepede; Lariboisière, near the N. Rly. stat. ; St. Louis, Rue Bichat; Du Midi, Rue des Capucines; De Lourcine, street of same name ; Des Cliniques, Place de l’Ecole de Médecine; Des Incurables, at Ivry, -may generally be visited without difficulty. For descrip- tions of the great Asylums, of the Mont de Piété, of the Prisons (historical ones mentioned elsewhere), and of the minor military establishments, see local guides. An excursion through the Sewers, from the Bastille to the Place de la Concorde, in boats and wagons, may be made twice a month in summer. The Catacombs, which contain the bones of most of the victims of the Revolution, and of nearly 6,000,000 of other dead, may be occasionally visited with permission. Along the Seine. — A good idea of the Seine, 190 ALONG THE SEINE. and the buildings along its banks, may be had by walk- ing from the Quai de Bercy to the Quai de la Mégisserie, which finishes at the Pont Neuf; and farther along, the Quais du Louvre, des Tuileries, de la Conférence, and de Billy, to Passy and Auteuil. This is a long walk, but is interesting, particularly in the morning. There are 27 bridges over the Seine, within the city. The most noticeable are the Pont d'Austerlitz, which has 5 stone arches, is 390 ft. long, and has the names of the principal officers killed in the celebrated battle inscribed on the ornaments of the bridge. It was built in 1808, and rebuilt in 1858. The Pont Neuf was begun in 1578, and completed in 1624. Upon it stands an equestrian statue of Henry IV. The Pont des Arts was built for pedestrians only. The Pont du Car- rousel has 4 colossal stone statues, those on the l. bank representing Abundance and Industry, and on the r. the Seine and the City of Paris. The Pont Royal was built in 1668. Just below is the pier for the steam- ers which run to St. Cloud and Suresnes. Farther down the Seine are the Pomé de Solférino, 155 yards long, with the names of the principal French victories in the campaign of 1859 inscribed upon the cornices; the Pont de la Concorde, opposite the Palais Bourbon; the Pont des Invalides, which has statues representing victory by land and victory by sea; the Pont de l'Alma, with statues between the arches representing different types of French soldiers; the Pont d'Igna, built 1806– 13, opposite the Champ de Mars, with colossal statues of men and horses; and the great bridge at the Point du Jour, or Auteuil, a superb viaduct, 570 ft. long. The Quais Conti, Malaquais, and Voltaire, prin- cipally occupied by sellers of second-hand books; the wharves at Bercy, laden with wood and wine; the wine port, near the Quai St. Bernard; the fruit port, near VERSAILLES. 191 the Quai de la Grève ; and the Pont de Grenelle, where vast quantities of stone, wood, and coal are disem- barked, - are all worth notice. In summer there is no better way of seeing a great portion of Paris than by travelling up and down the river on small steamers. Below Auteuil the Seine makes a wide sweep round to Bas Meudon, Boulogne, and along the banks of the Bois de Boulogne to Suresnes. Excursions near Paris. Versailles (Hotel des Réservoirs, where the German princes dwelt during the siege of Paris) is reached by half-hourly trains from St. Lazare or Mont-Parnasse stat. (11%–12%. M.; return-fares, 3 fr. 30 c., 2 fr. 70 c.); or by tramway from the Louvre (10 M.); or by carriage, through the Bois de Boulogne, the Park of St. Cloud, and Wille d’Avray. Versailles is a sleepy old town of 61,000 inhab., which has grown up around the palace that Louis XIV. built on an isolated plateau between low, forest-covered hills, at a cost of $200,000,000. The palace is on the highest point of the town. See Hôtel de Ville ; the Palais de Justice ; the Library (60,000 vols.); the Jeu de Paume, the cradle of the French Revolution; the Statue of Horace Pernet ; and the Theatre, restored in 1850; the Place Hoche, with the statue of the General; and the Cathedral of St. Louis. The courtyard contains many statues, among which are those of Bayard, Colbert, Masséna, and Tu- remne, and an equestrian bronze statue of Louis XIV. In 1661 Louis XIV. formed his great scheme of a º: and park; and Levan and Mansart erected the uildings, while Le Nôtre laid out and decorated the gardens. The palace has not been inhabited since 1789; and in the reign of Louis Philippe it was con- 192 VERSAILLES. verted into a museum, devoted, as the inscription shows, “To all the Glories of France.” The Chapel is gorgeously decorated (1696–1710). The Museum is open daily, 12–4 (except Mon.). The entrance is at the l. in the Marble Courtyard. Notice the Marble Staircase, leading to the first story; and the Queen's Staircase, to the second. The Museum is vast, and its magnificent halls are crowded with statues and por- traits of the generals, admirals, and sovereigns of France, and with hundreds of pictures of her battles in all four continents, painted by Vernet, Scheffer, Delacroix, Regnault, etc., forming an unrivalled panorama of mili- tary glory. , 33 grand battle-pictures in Galérie des Bałailles, a hall 396 × 52 ft. in area. In the Salle du Sacre is the great picture of the “Consecration of Napoleon,” by David ; also, Gros’s famous painting, “The Battle of Aboukir.” The Grande Galárie des Glaces is the most notable hall, 240 × 35 ft. in area, adorned with Le Brun's paintings (1679–83), and over- looking the gardens. The Bedroom of Louis XIV., the Salle des Gardes, the King's Antechamber, the Council Hall, the Salle de la Guerre ; and, on the ground floor, the Halls of the Marshals, of the Kings of France (67 portraits, from Clovis to Napoleon III.), and of the Royal Residences, – are especially worth visiting. The Sculpture Galleries are extremely inter- esting. In the Queen's Chamber the 3 queens, Marie Thérèse, Marie Leczinska, and Marie Antoinette, have lodged. Catalogues, giving description of all the rooms, for sale at palace. Fine view of the Grand Canal and the Basin of Apollo from the steps in front of the palace. The fountains play afternoons on Sun. (gen- erally announced in the Paris papers). The chief cu- riosities of the gardens are the Orangery (1685); the Parterres du Midi and du Nord; the Pièce d’Eau des ST. CLOUD, 193 Suisses; the Neptune Fountain ; the two fountains near the Orangery; the Latona Basin ; and the Grande Al- lée du Tapis Wert. The Grand Canal is 4,674 ft. long, and about 186 ft. wide. It was here that Iuouis XIV. gave his Venetian festivals, famous in history. The Grand Trianon, a horseshoe-shaped villa, built by Louis XIV. for Madame Maintenon, is open daily (12–4). Richly furnished rooms, in which Bazaine was tried. The gardens of the Little Trianon are also open daily. Notice the curious display of old stage- coaches used by the sovereigns of France, in a coach- house near the Great Trianon. When the Grandes Eaua, play, rly. tickets from Paris cost 2 fr., 1% fr. St. Cloud (Hötel de la Tée Noire; Du Château) is visited from St. Lazare (1.fr. 60 c., 1 fr. 10 c.); or by steamer, which is preferable in warm weather. From the bridge over the Seine turn to the 1., and walk through the Park to the Great Cascade. Then turn up to the ruined Palace (built in 1572), mainly de- stroyed by French shells, thrown into the wood to dis- lodge the Germans. This was a favorite residence of Napoleon III. (One-horse carriages per hr., 3 fr.) Many ruined buildings in the town, remains of the conflagration started by the Germans. Beautiful new ch. in the 12th-century style, with a lofty stone spire. New Hôtel de Ville, nearby. Magnificent outlook over Paris from the hill above the stat. The Palace was inhabited by most of the French sovereigns, from 1785. The rly, from Paris to Versailles runs through the beautiful park, which is ornamented with statues, foun- tains, and lakes. See the Trocadéro Garden, N. of the alace; the Pavillon de Breteuil; and the great water- jet, to the l. of the Cascade. The Park of Montrefont, near the rly., was the scene of a desperate fight, in the sortie made by the French, Jan. 19, 1871, in which they lost 3,000 men. Monument here to the slain. 13 194 SEVRES. — ST. GERMAIN. — RUEIL. Sèvres is easily reached from St. Cloud. Here is the noted porcelain factory. Exhibition room of the Ceramic Museum open daily, 12–5; strangers admitted without cards. The Workshops may be inspected Mon., Thurs., and Sat., 12-5 (get cards at 3 Rue de Valois, Paris). Rly. from Paris to Bellevue, 5 min. walk from the factory. St. Germain-en-Laye. This is one of the most beautiful excursions near Paris (fares, 1 fr. 65 c., 1 fr. 35 c.). The principal sights are the Pavillon Henri Quatre, in which Louis XIV. was born, and Thiers died; the magnificent Terrace on the border of the forest of St. Germain ; and the gloomy old Château, where James II. of England lived after the Revolution of 1688. In the Ch. is a Mausoleum, erected by George IV..to the memory of James. The Forest of St. Ger- main, one of the largest near Paris (9,000 acres), is full of charming walks, and a day or two may well be spent in this lofty and healthy old town. The Museum of National Antiquities is in the chateau (open Sun., Tues., and Thurs., 11–5). The Terrace, constructed by Le Nôtre in 1672, is 13; M. long, with superb view. From St. Germain to Versailles is a pleasant walk. Rueil (fares, 95 c., 65 c.) is 8; M. from St. Lazare stat. In its Ch. are monuments to Empress Josephine and Queen Hortense. Malmaison (tramway from Rueil, 2 M.) was the favorite home of Napoleon, and there Josephine died in 1814. Not far away is the Chateau of Buzenpal, near which the artist, Henri Regnault, was killed in the fight of Jan. 19, 1871. About 2; M. from Rueil is Bougival, a resort of celebrated painters. See the Restaurant, with walls decorated with land- scapes by Corot, Français, etc. . From thence go to Louveciennes, a lovely village, with a 15th-century ch. It is but 7–8 min, walk thence to Voisins. On the ST. DENIS. – ENGHIEN. 195 hill is Marly-le-Roi, where stood a beautiful palace built by Louis XIV., and destroyed during the Revo- lution. Victorien Sardou lives here. To the W. is Monſe Cristo, in which Dumas the Elder lived so long. St. Denis is 4. M. from Paris (return-fares, 1 fr. 30 c., 85 c., 70 c.). Chapel begun here, A.D. 275, in honor of St. Denis, who had his head cut off on Montmartre, and who is said to have taken it on his arm and walked off across the fields. Dagobert built the ch., which was the nucleus of the one begun by Pepin, finished by Charlemagne in 775, and demol- ished and a larger one built on its ruins 400 years later. During the Revolution the ch. was pillaged. It was restored by Violet-le-Duc. Beautiful monuments and statues here. Here Charlemagne was anointed; the Oriflamme was kept; Abélard dwelt; Joan of Arc hung up her arms; Henri I. abjured Protestant- ism; and Napoleon I. was married to Marie Louise. The bones of the Kings of France from Dagobert (630) to Louis XV. (1774) were buried here; and the mad Revolutionists tore them from their tombs, and buried them in a common ditch. They are now in the crypt, and the superb royal monuments adorn the ch., whose interior is 354 ft. long and 129 ft. wide, lighted by splendid stained windows, and en- riched with mosaics and statuary. Enghien and Montmorency are on the N. Rly. Enghien is noted for sulphur baths; and at Mont- morency is the Hermitage which Rousseau inhabited, and where he began La Nouvelle Héloïse. Robespierre and Grétry also lived here. — Chantilly and Compiègne (fares to Chantilly, 5 fr. 5 c., 3 fr. 75 c., 2 fr. 80 c.; to Compiègne, 10 fr. 30 c., 7 fr. 35 c., 3 fr. 65 c.). Chan- tilly was the Versailles of the Princes of Condé, and was beautified by them from the 13th century until the 196 COMPIEGNE. — FONTAINEBLEAU. Revolution. It has 2 fine châteaux (described by Madame de Sévigné), and a famous forest of 10 square M. Spring and autumn races here. Compiègne has always been a royal residence. Napoleon 1. was fond of it, and Napoleon III. entertained there with great magnificence. The Galérie des Fêtes is superb. The Library was the favorite work-place of Napoleon III. The Compiègne Forest is 59 M. around. From Com- piègne to Pierrefonds, excursion by omnibus through the forest, 9 M. Grand feudal fortress, built in 1400, and restored by Viollet-le-Duc, with 8 huge towers and a donjon, on a rocky height over Pierrefonds. Höffel des Ruines, near by. Ermenonville (return-tickets, 7 fr. 90 c., 5 fr. 90 c., 4 fr. 95 c.; Le Bourget, where there were many fights in 1870–71, is on this route) is the beautiful retreat where Rousseau died, in 1778. Celebrated Park just beyond, at Mortefontaine. — Trains run to Fontainebleau (Höffel de France et d’Angleterre ; De la Ville de Lyon ; De Londres ; De !’Europe) from the Gare de Lyons (return-tickets, 9 fr., 6 fr. 80 c., 4 fr. 95 c.). On the road is Churenton, with its celebrated lunatic asylum and fortress; Alfort, where there is a horse and dog hospital; Montmesly and Melun, with two handsome old chs. and a Gothic town-hall. From stat., omnibus (1} M. ; 30–50 c.) to the Château (open daily, 12–4). This stately palace was built by Francis I., on the site of Louis VII.’s castle; and here Condé died, the Edict of Nantes was revoked, Louis XIII, was born, Josephine was di- vorced, Napoleon signed his abdication, Pius VII. was imprisoned, and Napoleon III. was baptized. It is crowded with rich frescos and paintings, Gobe- lins tapestries, and antique furnishings. See the bou- doir of Marie Antoinette, the bedrooms of Anne of Austria and Catherine de Médicis, and the splendid SCEAUX. — MEUDON. — ORLEANS. 197 Salle des Fêtes. This was a favorite abode of the |Empress Eugenie and her son. The Forest, dear to artists, and one of the most beautiful in the world, must be seen. It is 50 M. around, with many fine gorges, crags, and heaths, and has 12,400 M. of roads and pathways. On the borders are many charming villages inhabited mainly by artists; and the lovers of Millet will visit Barbizon. Sceaux (return-fares, 2 fr. 20c., 1 fr. 40c., 1 fr. 10 c.) is a beautiful hill-town, with a delicious Park and the Château where Colbert once lived and Woltaire wrote several of his famous tragedies. Chatillon was the scene of many combats during the siege. Meudon is reached from the Gare Montparnasse. Fares small. In the Château, built in 1695 and burned by the Germans in 1871, the Empress Marie Louise and Prince Napoleon lived. This was also the parish of Rabelais. Fine view from Terrace (where the Prussians had a 26-gun battery); noble trees. The walk through Meudon to Versailles is charming. To Orleans, Blois, and Tours (fares to Tours, 28 fr. 80 c., 21 fr. 60 c., 15 fr. 80 c.; 145} M.). Orleans (Hotel d’Orléans ; De Loiret), founded by the Romans, on the Loire, contains a noble Flamboyant Cathedral, the only Gothic cathedral built in Europe since the Middle Ages. It has a grand interior, with double aisles; and 2 towers, each 280 ft. high. See the statue of Jeanne d’Arc made by the Princess Marie, the local Museum, and the fine and curious old Mairie. Orleans was the capital of the first Kingdom of Bur- gundy. The forest of Orleans is one of the largest in the country. The Germans took the city in 1870. Blois (Hötel d’Angleterre) has a stately old Castle, for centuries a residence of kings and queens. Fine old houses in the town. 12 M. (2 hrs.) hence, by 198 AMBOISE. — TOURS. — DIJON. omnibus, is the grand, many-towered, and historic Castle of Chambord, built by Francis I. and still in the Bourbon family. From Onzain stat. it is 1 M. to the Château de Chaumont, a high-towered hill-fortress, where Catherine de Médicis lived; Car- dinal d’Amboise was born; the Prince de Condé was imprisoned ; and Voltaire wrote La Pucelle. 11 M. beyond is Amboise, with its famous Castle, perched on a lofty crag, and dating from 1470. In the gardens is an exquisite Gothic chapel, with marvellous stone- carving. 10 M. S. is the castle of Chenonceaux, built by Francis I., inhabited by Diana de Poi- tiers and Louise of Lorraine, and the favorite resort of Voltaire, Rousseau, Bolingbroke, etc. It is still in perfect order, and elegantly furnished. At Tours (Hôtel de l’Univers, near the stat.), in Touraine, on the Loire, the best French is spoken. See Gothic Cathe- dral, founded in 1170; Episcopal Palace; many famous schools; a Museum with 200 paintings; a fine Public Library; and two ancient towers (relics of the old Cathedral), beneath one of which the wife of Charle- magne was buried. Many American and English families reside here. See Plessis les Tours, the home of Louis XI. For other excursions from Paris see local guides. Routes from Paris to Switzerland. Our itinerary leads to Germany, before entering Swit. zerland. * . From Paris to Geneva, by Dijon and Macon. — In 15 hrs., by express train (distance, 3884. M.; fares, 76 fr. 75 c., 57 fr. 55 c., 42 fr. 20 c.). Many people stop at Macon over night. Dijon (Hôtel du Jura, near the stat.), with 40,000 inhab., is in the wine-growing dis- MACON. — BELFORT. — RHEIMS. H99. trict. See the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, now a town-hall, with very interesting museum; the Castle, built by Louis XI.; the Burgundian-Gothic Ch. of Notre Dame (built 1220–30), with a curious clock. Macon (Hotel de l’Europe) is an important rly. junction (good buffet). Fine views of the Jura Mts. from the train. At Amberieu you begin to climb the mts. Junction at Culoz for Air-les-Bains, Chambery, and Turin. Near here some fine viaducts, and the Foré de l’Ecluse, the key to the Rhone valley. From this point you traverse a picturesque mt. country to Geneva. From Paris to Switzerland, via Pontarlier (fares from Paris to Berne, 68 fr. 15 c., 50 fr. 85 c., 37 fr. 25 c.). Same route as previous one to Dijon. From Pontarlier the route leads up through the mts. to Berne; the scenery is wildly beautiful. A branch leads from Pontarlier to Lausanne (fares from Paris, 67 fr., 47 fr. 80 c., 35 fr.). From Paris to Basle, by Troyes, Chaumont, Wesoul, and Belfort, the fortress which made a heroic resistance in 1870, and thence either through Alsace, touching at Mulhouse, or by Delle to Basle. From Paris to Basle, via Nancy, Strasbourg, and Mulhouse (fare, 75 fr. 60 c.). The interesting towns on this route are Meaux (Hôtel Grignan), 25 M. from Paris, in a lovely situation on the Marne. Superb Gothic Cathedral of St. Etienne, with Monuments of Bossuet (who was Bishop of Meaux) and Philip of Castille. Château Thierry was the birthplace of La- fontaine. From Epernay branch (fare, 3 fr. 70 c.) to Rheims (Hotel Lion d'Or), an old city of 70,000 inhab. In its cathedral most of the kings of France have been crowned. See magnificent Gothic Abbey Ch. of St. Remi, founded by Clovis in the 6th century; and the Cathedral, built 1212–1430, and one of the grandest 200 SEDAN. — TOUL. — NANCY. — THE WOSGES. in Europe. It is 466 ft. long and 124 ft. high; filled with beautiful statues and monuments. Splendid rose- windows and interesting Treasury. Charles VII. was crowned here; Joan of Arc standing by his side. The Hötel de Wille contains a fine public library. Rly. to Sedan (Hötel de la Croia d'Or), where MacMahon's army of 80,000 men surrendered. Beyond Epernay on the main line is Châlons-sur- Marne; and Bar-le-Duc (Hötel du Cygne). Statues of Marshal Oudinot and Gen. Excelmans; monument of the Prince of Orange. Toul, on the Moselle, is a for- tress which was besieged in 1870. Nancy (Hötel de France), the old capital of Lorraine, and the prettiest town in France, with a large Cathedral, an inter- esting Museum (in the Hôtel de Wille), a splendid new Prefecture, and a fine specimen of Flamboyant Gothic in the Palace of the Dukes of Lorraine. Nôtre Dame de Bon-Secours contains the Tomb of Stanislas, ex-King of Poland, who lived in Nancy after abdicat- ing his throne in 1735. See triumphal arch; two fountains; and Statues of Thiers, Callot, Drouot, and Stanislas. Near the gate of St. Jean is the Cross of the Duke of Burgundy, close to which was found the body of Charles the Bold, after the celebrated battle (1477). Beyond Nancy you pass through the Vosges Mts., and down to Strasbourg. ST. QUENTIN. — MONS. — VALENCIENNES. 201 P E L G. I. U M . E now invite your attention to the route from Paris to Brussels and other sections of Belgium, our advice being that it is well to see portions of Bel- gium, Holland, and Germany before visiting Switzerland and Italy. The most direct route from Paris to Brussels is from the Gare du Nord, via Tergnier, Maubeuge, and Mons (time, 6% hrs. ; fares, 36 fr. 20 c., 27 fr. 20 c., 18 fr. 90 c.). You pass through St. Denis; Chantilly; Creil; Compiègne ; St. Quentin, an important manu- facturing centre, with a noble ch. as well as a magnifi- cent City Hall of the 14th and 15th centuries; through the valley of the Sambre to Maubeuge and thence to Feignies, the French frontier. Mons (Hotel Couronme) j'a castle built by Julius Caesar. It is the centre of a great coal-mining country. Splendid interior of the Cathedral of St. Waudru (1450–1589) and Hôtel de Ville (1458). Belfry built in 1662 by the Spaniards. At Malplaquet, 3 M. S. E., Marlborough defeated the French in 1700, and lost 20,000 men. Between Mons and Brussels is Hal, with the elegant 14th-century Nôtre Dame, still a place for pious pilgrimages. Before reach- ing Brussels you can see Ste. Gudule’s towers. Another route from Paris to Brussels traverses Amiens, Arras, Douai, and Mons (fares, 39 fr. 25 c., 29 fr. 45 c., 20 fr. 55 c.). Douai (Hotel de Flandre) is an important place de guerre, and has an interesting mu- seum and town-hall. Valenciennes is also a strong old fortress and a great manufacturing town. Here is a statue of Froissart, the chronicler, born in Valen- ciennes. From thence to Mons you pass through a 202 LILLE. — NAMUR. — LIEGE. fertile and populous country, by Jemmapes, where the French won a great victory over the Austrians in 1792. There is also a direct route from Paris to Ghent by Lille, Roubaix, and Courtrai (9 hrs. ; fares, 37 fr. 70 cl, 28 fr. 25 c.). Lille (Hôtel de l'Europe), a manufactur- ing town of 162,000 inhab., is a first-class fortress on the river Deule. St. Catherine's Ch. has an altar-piece by Rubens. In the Wicar Museum is a precious col- lection of drawings by the Italian masters. In the great square is a column commemorative of the Aus- trian siege of 1792. Statue of Gen. Negrier, killed at Paris in 1848. Roubaix, 5 M. beyond, is a great woollen and cotton working town of 83,000 inhab. ; production $40,000,000 yearly. Tourcoing, the French frontier, is a factory-town. - From London one may go via Calais to Brussels by Lille and Tournai (fares from Calais, 21 fr. 30 c., 15 fr. 95 c., Ilfr. 40 c.). Leaving London at 8.05 P.M. you reach Brussels at 6 A.M. (fares, £2 11s., £1 18 s.) From Paris to Liège, via Charleroi, is 228} M. (ex- press in 8 hrs. ; fares, 42 fr. 40 c., 31 fr. 90 c., 21 fr. 35 c.). This is also the route from Paris to Cologne (fares from Paris, 59 fr. 35 c., 44 fr. 20 c.). Charle- roi is a modern town, an industrial centre of Belgium. The environs are fine. 46,000 workmen employed in coal-mining. The line crosses the Sambre 13 times on the way to Namur, a pretty Flemish fortified town, of Roman origin, with a vast old citadel, on the Meuse. It has several spacious squares, and a Renaissance Cathedral. , Namur has sustained several celebrated sieges, – among others that of 1692, commanded by Louis XIV. in person. Archæological Museum worth visiting. From Namur you may go to Luxembourg. Liège (Hôtel d’Angleferre; De l'Europe; De Suéde), BELGIUM. - 203 the Flemish Luick and German Lüttich, has 120,000 inhab., and is very picturesquely situated on the Meuse. See Quentin Durward for a recital of the most striking events in its history. This town, “the Shef- field of Belgium,” is noted for its weapon-factories, and one quarter is given up to workshops. The Chs. of St. Jacques, St. Paul, St. Martin, St. Croia (10th century), St. Barthélemy, as well as the Cathedral St. Paul, should be seen. The Choir of the cathedral dates from the 13th century. The splendid Gothic Palais de Justice (described in Quenſin Durward) was the palace of the prince-bishops, built in 1508-40 by Cardinal de la Marck, a relative of the “Wild Boar of the Ardennes.” See Archaeological Museum ; Höſel de Ville; University (library, 100,000 vols.); the Com- munal Museum ; the Citadel, with grand views; the Royal Cannon-ſoundry. Liège is the capital of the Walloons, and the environs have beautiful scenery. The route to Cologne traverses a picturesque region to Werviers (15%. M.), a modern city of woollen-factories; thence to Air-la-Chapelle. From Liège you may visit Spa. On the way is Chaudfontaine (Hote/des Bains; D'Angleferre), a famous watering-place. The waters (used in baths) are beneficial in nervous diseases. 8 M. beyond is Pepinster, whence runs a branch line (; hr.) to Spa (Hötel de Flandre; D’Orange ; De York ; Des Pays Bas; Grand Hotel Britannique ; Casino, Rue Royale), one of the oldest of European watering-places. The climate is remarkably fine, although exposed to sudden variations, dangerous for consumptives. The waters are tonic (iron). 3–4 glasses should be taken daily, and the cure demands 6–8 weeks. Season, May 15–Oct. 15. 20,000 visitors come here annually. The village (6,000 inhab.) is in a pretty glen, among wooded hills and scenery famous for beauty. 204 LUXEMBOURG. — BRUSSELS. From Namur you may go to Luxembourg and Trèves, and thence make a delightful excursion down the Mo- selle by steamboat to Coblence. You may also go from Liège (109; M. in 5–6 hrs.) to Luxembourg. Luxembourg, the famous fortress, the capital of the grand duchy, was made a neutral state by the Treaty of London in 1867. It is very picturesquely situated on a rocky plateau, with precipices on 3 sides. The Alzette valley is divided by a fortified rock called the Bock, on which is the ancient Melusima Tower. See Cathedral, Höffel de Ville, Archaeological Museum. Rlys. hence to Trêves or Metz, by Thionville. Brussels and Environs. Brussels (Hôtel Bellevue ; De Flandre ; De France; De l'Europe; De Saare ; De Brucelles), the capital of Belgium, has (including suburbs) 391,000 inhab. To appreciate Brussels, read the histories of the old town, - the terrible period of the Spanish domina- tion, the riots and bombardments in the 17th century, the annexation to France, and the union with and secession from the Low Countries. Brussels stands on an undulating plain. It is divided into the Upper and Lower Towns. On the hill are the palaces, the Park, and the fine Rue Royale. Below, in the picturesque older portion, are the commercial classes. Brussels is on the line between the Walloons and Flemings; and you will hear French and Flemish spoken, the former prevailing. Go first to the Grande Place, the ancient forum of Brussels. Note the exquisite façade of the Hôtel de Wille (built 1402-43), and the stately tower, 370 ft. high, at whose top is a colossal statue of St. Michael. Entrance fee, 50 c. Beautiful tapes- tries and paintings in the Salle des Fêtes, etc. Opposite BELGIUM. 205 is the Maison du Roi, built by Charles W. (1514–25). There were imprisoned Counts Egmont, and Hoorne, and in front they were deeapitated, in 1568. Many of the picturesque houses on the Place were built by the Guilds, as meeting-places. Tournaments were held here in the 15th century. The famous Mannikin foun- tain is back of the Hôtel de Ville. The Galárie St. Hu- bert is one of the finest arcades in Europe. In the steep Rue Montagne de la Cour are the finest shops. At the top is the Place Royale. Go first to the Museum (Place du Musée). On the l. is the great Palais de l’Indus- trie, with statue of Prince Charles of Lorraine. The Museum of Painting (open 10–5 in summer) contains 13 canvases by Rubens; many Van Dycks, Holbeins, and Rembrandts. The Ancient Museum is rich in tap- estries. In the Modern Museum there are a few good pictures. Next take the Rue de la Régence, endin at the new Palais de Justice, which covers more º than St. Peter’s at Rome, and cost $8,400,000. Vast dome. Near by is the Palais des Beaur-Arts, with fine statues and groups; the Palace of the Comte de Flandres ; the Place du Petit Sablon, with monuments to Counts Egmont and Hoorne; the Royal Conservatory of Music ; and the Synagogue. Next, going by the Rue Royale, visit the Park, a lovely promenade (mili- tary music, 3–4%, in summer); then to the King’s Palace, —simple, but well stocked with fine pictures. When the flag is up, the King is there. When he is not, strangers are admitted (ſee, 2 fr.). The Palace of the Nation (the Legislative Chambers) is across the Park. Handsome vestibule, with statues. Ministries in elegant buildings near by. The Palais des Acade- mies is near the Park. This building, in Italian style, contains the Plaster Museum (free, 10–4); the Acade- mies of letters, arts and sciences, and medicine; and 206 STE. GUDULE. — WATERLOO. a noble concert hall, with paintings of episodes in Belgian history. Ste. Gudule, the great Gothic Cathedral (open, ex- cept from 12–4, week days: to climb the towers, 1 per- son, 2 fr. ; 2–6 persons, 3 fr.), was founded in the 11th century; choir and transept, 13th century; towers and nave, 14th. The carved pulpit, made in 1699, repre- sents the Expulsion from Paradise. Superb stained- glass windows; and many rare old tombs. Other Objects of Interest. — Place des Martyrs, with monument to those who perished in the Revolution of 1830; Place des Barricades, and statue of Vesalius, the anatomist; Place du Lua'embourg, statue of Cocke- rill; Place de la Monnaie, and Opera House; Bourse; Rue Neuve; handsome new boulevards around the old city; Observatory; hospitals; National Bank; Musée Whertz (fantastic compositions of a Belgian painter); Museum of Antiquities, and Porte de Hal ; precious paintings in Aremberg Palace; Botanical Garden ; Bois de la Cambre, the Bois de Boulogne of Brussels. At Laeken, 2 M. N., is the Ch. of Ste. Marie, where members of the royal family are buried. In the cem- etery, grave and statue of Malibran. — Royal Palace, the King's favorite residence. Monument to Leo- pold I. — Manor of Bouchat, where dwells Carlotta, ex-Empress of Mexico. Waterloo may be reached by rly, to Braine l’Al- leud, and walk (; hr.) to the Buffe du Lion, or to Waterloo, and go over to the battle-field by omnibus; or you can go by mail-coach from the Place Royale, at 9.30 A.M. (round-trip, 7 fr. ; coachman, 1 fr.). Guides, Belgian and English, on the field (ſees, 2–4 fr.). Water- loo is a Flemish village. The Mt. St. Joan and the Butte du Jion, on which is a pyramid and a colossal lion, should be visited. Museum at Hôtel du Musée. BELGIUM. 207 Louvain (Hôtel de Suede : Du Nord), population 35,000, may be visited from Brussels in 1 hr. (fares, 2 fr. 30 c., 1 fr. 75 c., 1 fr. 15 c.). This was one of the great weaving-centres; but after 1383 the weavers went to England. The Hôtel de Ville is one of the marvels of Belgium. This jewel of Gothic art was built 1448–63. Exterior lavishly decorated with stat- ues. The great Gothic Ch. of St. Pierre (open, except 2–4) has a fine- tabernacle and many remark- able paintings. Les Halles, built 1317, and the vast rison, should be seen. The University, founded in 426, is Roman Catholic, and has 1,000 students (formerly 6,000). Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, etc. You may visit Ghent and Bruges from Antwerp or Brus- sels; or, if you come directly from England to Ostend, you can go through Bruges and Ghent to Brussels. Fares, Dover to Ostend, 15 s., 10 s. ; 68 M.; time, 4-6 hrs. Fares, Ostend to Brussels, 9 fr. 30 c., 6 fr. 95 c., 4 fr. 65 c. Ostend (Hotel de Prusse; Mertian, on the Dyke; Grand Hôtel Marion ; Imperial) is the second maritime city in Belgium (18,000 inhab.) and the summer resi- dence of the King. It receives about 18,000 visitors annually. Renowned sea-baths; magnificent stone dyke, # M. long; monumental Cursaal; Leopold Park, filled with cafés. Celebrated oyster-parks here. From Ostend it is 14 M. (fares, 1 fr. 75 c., 1 fr. 35 c., 90 c.) to Bruges (Höffel de Flandre ; Du Commerce; St. Amand), a city of 45,000 inhab., on the great canals to Ostend, Ghent, and Sluys. It is, like Amsterdam, called the “Venice of the North,” because seamed with canals. Handsome rly, stat. Guides, 1–3 fr. The 13th century was the epoch of Bruges's greatest pros- wºm 208 BRUGES. erity. It was the centre of the trade of the Hanseatic º, and the chief commercial city of Europe. Its decline dates from 1545. In the Grand Place is the Fleur de Blé Imn of which Longfellow sings. There also stood the house in which Maximilian was confined in the revolt of 1488; and opposite is the home of Charles II. of England, in his exile. The Cathedral (open daily, except 12–4; opened then for small fee) stands on the site of one built in 1858, and has a great num- ber of fine old Flemish pictures (fee to climb the tower, 1 fr.). Notre Dame contains some veiled paintings, shown for a fee of # fr. The choir and nave date from 1186; the tower from 1250. It is the largest brick tower in Belgium, -390 ft. high (fee, 1 fr.). Hand- some bronze doors; exquisite marble group of the Virgin and Child, by Michael Angelo, over the altar. In chapel on r. (ifr), sumptuous ancient tombs of Charles the Bold and his daughter Marie. Carven pulpit. Large collection of paintings. The Belfry of Bruges (see Longfellow), one of the quaint monuments of the Communes, is 350 ft. high, (fee, #fr. below, ; fr. above). The chimes (48 bells) play every quarter-hour.—The Hôtel de l'ille (1877) is a noble Gothic edifice, with 6 towers.-The Hospital St. Jean, W. of Nôtre Dame (open daily, except Sun., 9–12, and 1-6, #fr.), is renowned for its marvellous paintings by Hans Memling. Do not fail to see these. The Châsse de Ste. Ursule is the best. The Academy of Fine Arts (; fr.) has many remarkable pictures by the old masters. In St. Jacques are brass engraved monu- ments of Spanish families. – The Chapelle du St. Sang was built in 1150 as the receptacle for a phial that the Patriarch of Jerusalem had given to Theodoric of Flan- ders, with some drops of the Saviour's blood. Portal and staircase, Flamboyant Gothic. The Palais de BELGIUM. 209 Justice has a superb carved chimney-piece (1528–29) in the Court Room (; fr.). Bruges, though decadent and melancholy, is still celebrated for pretty girls and richly decorated old houses. See statues of Memling and Jan van Eyck. From Bruges it is # hr. (fares, 3 fr. 40 c., 2 fr. 55 c., lifr. 70c.) to Ghent (Hötel Royal ; De la Poste ; De Vienne), a city of 130,000 inhab., on the river Scheldt. The town is divided into 26 islands, and has 88 bridges. The history of Ghent is romantic. It became the capi- tal of Flanders in 1180. 200 years earlier, Baudouin had introduced weaving. The great Guilds, under Jacques van Artevelde, etc., ruled this region for 2 centuries, and often came to blows among themselves, as on May 2, 1345, when 1,500 men were slain in a terrible street-battle. In the 15th century there were 40,000 weavers; and the woollen workers alone fur- mished 18,000 men to the civic army. Charles W. was born in Ghent in 1500. From the Spanish domina- tion dates the decline. 11,000 inhab. emigrated at once to England and Holland. Louis XIV, took the town after a siege of 6 days, in 1698. In 1810 Napo- leon I. made a ceremonial entry, with Marie Louise. Notice the Marché du Vendredi, a great square surrounded by old houses. In the middle, the politi- cal forum of Ghent, stands a statue of Van Artevelde. In the Cathedral of St. Bavon (open daily, except 12–1) see the vast crypt, built in 991 and restored in 1228; the noble nave and transepts (1533); and the tower, built in 1533–34 (416 steps; fee, 2 fr., 1–4 persons). See the picture of “The Adoration of the Spotless Lamb,” by the brothers Van Eyck. Al- though more than 400 years old, it preserves its bril. liancy of coloring. Here also is a chef-d'oeuvre of Rubens. Two statues of Sts. Peter and Paul ornament 14 210 GHENT. — MECHLIN. the choir. The Hôtel de Ville, built 1481–1628, is a remarkably beautiful Flamboyant building, whose E. façade is very striking. . The Belfºy, built 1183–1339, whose bells assembled the citizens, is 386 ft. high, and commands an extensive prospect over Flanders (ascent, 2 fr.). There are 44 bells in the chime, including Ro- land. The Béguinage, the chief curiosity in Ghent, is a community of women who are not bound by vows, but live by their own labors or resources. This insti- tution of secular saints had its origin in the 7th century. The old Grand Béguinage formed a separate quarter of the city, surrounded by walls, and included 18 convents and 100 houses. The new suburban one has many handsome Gothic houses, and a vast ch. 600 women live here, and make rich laces. See St. Jacques Ch. ; St. Nicholas and St. Michael, crowded with pictures; St. Pierre, with rare old paintings; the imposing Palais de Justice ; , the University, with a splendid marble rotunda, and a library in old Baudeloo Monastery (100,000 vols.); and the Museum (; fr.). The Oudeburg is a remnant of the old palace of the Counts of Flanders, where John of Gaunt was born, 1340. On Marché du Vendredi is an old cannon, such as stone missiles were fired from. See Botanical Garden (Ghent is called “The Queen of Flowers ”); Zoëlogical Garden (fee, 1 fr.); ruins of Abbey of St. Bavon. Fares from Ghent to Brussels, 4 fr. 35 c., 3 fr. 25 c., 2 fr. 20 c. From Brussels to Am/werp trains run in 1 hr., pass- ing Malines, or Mechlin (Hôtel de la Cigogne; Cheval d’Or), a city of 40,000 inhab., the ecclesiastical capital of Belgium. In 1572–80 the town was sacked and burned by the Spaniards, the troops of the Prince of Orange, and the English. See the Cathedral of St. Rombold, begun in 1451. Imposing interior, and carved pulpit. Huge tower, 320 ft. high, with a splendid BELGIUM. 211 chime of 44 bells. In the S. transept is The Cruci- fixion, by Van Dyck (fee, 1 fr.) In Notre Dame is Rubens's Miraculous Draught of Fishes (lfr.). In St. Jean is a fine Triptych by Rubens (; fr.). Mechlin is renowned for its beautiful lace. Antwerp (Höffel St. Antoine; De l'Europe; Grand La- boureur; De la Pair) is one of the most flourishing com- mercial towns in Europe (160,000 inhab.), and one of the quaintest and most replete with historical and artis- tic interest. , Napoleon I. wished to make Antwerp a great maritime arsenal, and built vast docks; but the Antwerp people of to-day are constructing others yet more vast. Climb the Cathedral Tower (75 c.), and look over the crowded Scheldt, and over the Low Countries from Breda to Brussels. The Cathedral (built 1352–1530) is the most imposing ch, in Belgium (open daily, except 12–4). When closed, ask porter for keys (lfr.). The majestic interior (384 ft. long, 130 ft. high) is divided into 7 aisles, by 6 rows of columns. Choir built 1352–1411. Philip II. once held a Chapter of the Order of the Golden Fleece here. In 1566 the Iconoclasts did irreparable damage. (See Motley’s “Dutch Republic,” for romantic episodes in Antwerp’s history.) In the r. transept is Rubens's Descent from the Cross, usually kept veiled. In the 1. transept is Rubens's The Elevation of the Cross. Above the high altar is The Assumption, also by Rubens. See the stone containing the epitaph of Quentin Matsys, and the sculptured pulpit and tabernacles. The mag- nificent tower is 402 ft. high (finished 1530); the chimes have 99 bells. Napoleon likened this tower to Mechlin lace. Near the portal is the celebrated iron well-canopy made by Quentin Matsys. St. Paul, St. Andrew, and St. Antoine contain rare old Flemish paintings. The Ch. of St. Jacques (built 1429—1507) 212 ROTTERDAM. contains the tomb of Rubens, and many good pictures and sculptures (small fee). St. Augustine has pictures by Rubens, Van Dyck, etc. The Hotel de Ville, built in 1561–65, contains splendid mural paintings (done in 1864–69) in the Salle Leys. Many old Guild houses (1513–79) near by. Visit the beautiful new Gothic Bourse ; the Palais de Justice; and the House of Rubens (Rue Rubens), where the painter died. The Museum (open daily, 9–5) is the best in Belgium; 700 paintings here, with many Rubenses and Van Dycks (catalogue, 3% fr.). For notable private collections in- quire here. The new B.º. on the site of the walls; the vast docks, quays, and warehouses; the Park; and the statues of Rubens, King Leopold I., Van Dyck, and Teniers, are worth seeing. The Cita- del and fortifications are interesting. Steamers from Antwerp to Rotterdam thrice weekly, in 9 hrs. ; fares, 5 fr. 30 c., 3 fr. 20 c. To London, Sun., Wed., and Fri., 34 fr. To London via Harwich, Mon., Wed., and Fri., 34 fr., 26 fr. 70 c. Regular departures for all the great ports of the world. EHO I, T, A. N. D. TH: tourist may very pleasantly and profitably spend 2–3 days in #." Go from Antwerp (time, 4 hrs. ; fares, 10 fr. 45 c., 7 fr. 70 c., 4 fr. 90 c.) to Rotterdam (Hôtel des Pays Bas; New Bath ; Vic- toria ; De l'Europe), the second city in Holland (130,000 inhab.). The Maas is here navigable for the largest ships; and the scene in the quay is very animated. Superb docks, and many canals. The steamboats land HOLLANID. 213 passengers near the Boompjes quay. Here stood the Dutch East India House, now turned into colonial warehouses. Rotterdam builds many ships; has a heavy trade with Java and Sumatra, and steam lines to London and other Atlantic ports; and is a great point for the departure of emigrants for America. The canals are bordered with trees, and the suburbs are extremely beautiful. The Hoogstraat, the Willemskade, the new quay, are worth seeing. The Museum (open daily, 11–3; # fr.) has fine examples of Rembrandt, Rubens, Dürer, Wouvermans, and Ary Scheffer. In the Groote- ſerk is a noble organ; also monuments of several famous admirals. Good view from the tower, 297 ft. high (60 c.) The Old Ch., the S. Ch., the new Town Hall, the Erchange, the Botanical Gardens, the Zoëlogi- cal Gardens, may be easily seen in an afternoon. The statue of Erasmus stands in the Groote-Markt; and on the house which was his birthplace is the inscription, Haec est parva domus, magnus qud natus Erasmus. The New Park is W. of the town. Walk along the Maas, noting the peculiar costume of the peasantry and the singular neatness of the houses. From Rotterdam to the Hague takes # hr. (fares, 1 fl. 20 c., lſl., 60 c.). On this route is Schiedam, renowned for its distil- leries (see Hôtel de Wille and Frchange); and Delft (Hôtel Schaap), a very ancient Dutch town, once fa- mous for porcelain, but now dull and dignified. The staircase on which William of Orange was shot (1584) . is still shown. It was from Delft that the Pilgrims embarked for Plymouth, America (1620). In the Oude Kerk, see the tomb of Admirals van Tromp (1653), Hein, etc. In the Wieuwe Kerk (1412–76) is the mag- nificent Mausoleum of William of Orange. The Hague (Hôtel Bellevue, beautifully situated; Oude Doelen), the capital of Holland (100,000 inhab.), is 214 THE HAGUE.—SCHEVENINGEN. in summer one of the most charming places in Europe. It nestles in a delightful forest, where all the character- . istics of Dutch scenery—mossy trees, green banks, and winding brooks and canals—appear. The Museum (open free daily, 9–3; Sat., 10–1; catalogue, 50 c.) contains the very best examples of the Dutch school of art, and many other celebrated paintings, –Paul Potter's famous Bull, Rembrandt’s School of Anatomy, the Presenta- tion in the Temple, etc. On the E. is a statue of Wil- liam the Silent (1848). In the Buitenhof, statue of William II. Opposite the Royal Palace, equestrian statue of Prince William I. See the Marine Museum, with its wonderful collection of models for ships; the Royal Library (100,000 vols.); the collection of 40,000 coins and medals; the Groote Kerk, with its beautiful tombs; the Kloster Kerk; the New Ch., where Spinoza is buried. The ponderous old Binnenhof Palace and the Buitenhof square are of great historic interest. The Grand Council now holds its sessions in the an- cient torture-room. Beyond the Buitenhof you reach the gloomy Gevangemport tower, where De Witt was slain in 1672. In the Willems-Park is the grand Na- tional Monument (built 1863–69), covered with statues. The national buildings are plain and substantial. On the Noordeinde is the ‘Royal Palace, and the old Mu- seum of King William II. Prince Frederick's Palace is not far from the Park. See the pretty royal villa called Huis ten Bosch, built in 1647, and filled with treasures of art (fee, 1 ſl). From the Hôtel Bellevue, steam tramway (23–3 M.) to the pretty seaside resort of Scheveningen (Grand Hôtel des Bains, prices mod- erate), a fishing-village among the dunes. In summer, the fashionable world of North Germany, Holland, and England, and many people from the S., assemble here. Beautiful sea views and fine forests. Leyden and Haar- HOLLAND. 215 lem may be visited between the Hague and Amsterdam (fares to Amsterdam, 4 fl., 3 fl. 5 c., 2 fl. ; to Leyden, 80 c., 60 c., 40 c.; from Leyden to Haarlem, 1 fl. 40 c., 1 fl. 10 c., 70 c.). Leyden (Hôtel de Zon; Lion d'Or), a town of 40,000 inhab., is famous for the great siege (see Motley). It possessed more than 100,000 weavers. Leading ob- jects of interest: the spacious Hooglandsche Kerk; the Natural History Museum (open daily, free), with the finest cabinet of anatomy in Europe (open daily, 2–5, except Sun.); the Museum of Antiquities (open free Sun., 12–7, Tues., Thurs., and Sat., 11–4); the Jap- anese Museum (open daily, 50 c.); the Numismatic (open daily, 12–3); the University (600 students), founded after the siege, with excellent observatory; Library, 3,000 oriental MSS. (open Mon., Wed., and Sat., 12–3); the Botanic Gardens (E. Indies plants); and the old Castle of Drusus. The Hötel de Ville has many inscriptions relative to the siege of 1574. Haarlem (Hötel la Couronne ; Lion d’Or ; Hont- mann) is a town of 28,000 inhab. . The siege by the Spaniards in 1572, and the heroic defence, are described in Motley’s picturesque history. The Cathedral is very spacious; 28 columns in the nave. The vast organ, with 5,000 pipes, is played Tues. and Thurs., 1–2; at other times, 12 fl. for a party. Visit the inte- rior. Marble crypt under the organ. From the tower extensive view. See the Teyler Museum ; the statue of Coster, inventor of printing with metal types; Cos- ter's House ; the Museum of Natural History; and the house of the rich banker, Hope. Amsterdam (Hotel Amstel; Pays Bas; Old Bible; Brack's Doelen) is a city of 300,000 inhab., named from the Amstel, an inlet of the Zuider Zee, communicatin with the North Sea by the N. Holland Canal, 50 § 275. AMSTERDAM. long, the most gigantic undertaking of the kind ever executed. It commences opposite Amsterdam, and ex- tends to the Helder and º: Texel; cost $5,000,000. The town is built upon piles driven into the sand. Its canals are spanned by more than 300 bridges. The finest view is from the Hooge Sluys. Near by is St. Anthony’s Gate, with 5 towers (built 1488–1585). The Palace is a huge stone structure, standing on 13,695 piles. Near it are the Dam, the memorial of 1831, the Eachange, the Post-Office, the Nieuwe Kerk, the Sea- man's Club, in the Stadhuis. From the tower, one has a magnificent panorama of the city. Fine marble sculptures on the palace front. The Throne Hall, the Grand Hall, decorated with trophies, and the Au- dience Hall, are remarkable (fee, 50 c.). The Botan- ical and Zoological Gardens (latter, 75 c.) are equal to those of any other city. The principal museum (free daily, 10–3), the Trippenhuis, has the best collection of paintings in Holland (get catalogue). Note the works of Rembrandt. The Wanderhoof collection is in the Academy of Fine Arts. The Oude Mannenhuis is open, 10–4. The Fodor Museum has very good French and Dutch pictures. The Historical Gallery is devoted to episodes in Dutch history (open daily, 50 c.; catalogue 75 c.). See Vos Museum ; statue of Rembrandt, monu- ment to Wan Speyk; Blind Asylum ; Zeemanshoop (Sailors' Hope), a club with 2,000 members; Normal School of Navigation ; Sailor’s Home; great range of state warehouses, on Entrepôt Dock; Park, good music on Sun. ; shops where diamonds are polished; Jewish quarter; Cellular Prison ; and Crystal Palace. Am- sterdam is the cleanest city in Europe; on a bright Sunday it presents a charming spectacle. Notice the Fountain, commemorating the events in 1830–31. In the old ch. on the Dam, monument to Wan Ruyter. UTRECHT. 217 Bleasant excursions to Barmen, and other pretty sub- urban towns. Broek, 6 M. out, is a wonderfully clean village. At Zaandam is the house where Peter the Great worked when learning the shipwright's trade. Good fish dinners here. It is 1 hr. (23 M.; fares, 1 fl. 70 c., l fl. 25 c., 85 c.) from Amsterdam to Utrecht (Hotel Pays Bas ; Bellevue ; De la Station), the Roman Trajectum, and the home of many Dutch families of rank. Noble Cathedral here, constructed in 720, and much tried by hurricanes and iconoclasts. The people of Utrecht boast that from the tower, 321 ft. high, you can see all Holland. In the ch., fine organ and magnificent mausoleums. S. of the cathe- dral is the University, founded in 1636, very rich ; 475 students; splendid library and remarkable Museum of Natural History. The Palace of the Popes, founded by Adrian VI., with a statue of St. Salvador, is now the palace of the provincial government. Adrian was born in Utrecht. In the Stadhuis are a few pictures. Fine new boulevards around the city. From Utrecht you can begin your journey up the Rhine. Take rail to Düsseldorf, passing Arnhem, the Arenaeum of the ancients. The Romans encamped here 70 years B.C., and it was for a long time the resi- dence of the Dukes of Guelders. See the Cathedral, with tomb of Count Egmont. Tower, 330 ft. high; wonderful chimes. The Palace of Justice has a fine court-room. Emmerich (Hötel de Hollande) is the first German town. & 218 DüSSELDORF. — COLOGNE. GERMANY AND AUSTRIA. ROM Utrecht to Emmerich, 4 fl. 50 c., 3 fl. 40 c., 2 fl. 25 c.; 54} M. From Emmerich to Düssel- dorf, fares, 7 mks. 60 pf., 5 mks. 70 pf., 3 mks. 80 pf. ; to Cologne, ll mks. 20 pf., 8 mks. 40 pf., 5 mks. 60 pf. ; to Frankfort, 28 mks. 80 pf, 21 mks. 20 pf., 13 mks. 50 pf. Düsseldorf (Hôtel Breidenbacher ; , De l'Europe; Römischer Kaiser), a city of 81,000 inhab., is the prin- cipal art-centre on the Rhine. The Academy of Arts was founded in 1767; it now has 300 students, in a wing of the old Electoral Palace, saved from the fire of 1872. Here, also, are the remains of the famous Gallery of Art, and many drawings, of all schools, (open Mon., Wed., Fri., and Sat., 12–1). Handsome Florentine Post-office ; pleasant Hof/arten; and haunts of Goethe and Herder. The Ch. of St. Lambert con- tains the tombs of the last Dukes of Cleves and Berg, and a good picture by Achenbach. St. Andrew's is very interesting. In the hall of the Realschule is a frieze by Bendemann. In the Courts of Justice see Schadow’s “Heaven, Hell, and Purgatory.” Many fine modern paintings in the Tonhalle. See statues of Cornelius and the Elector John William. Several exhibitions of pictures in the town; admission fees, 50 pf. It is #–# hr. by rly. (fares, 3 mks. 70 pf., 2 mks. 80 pf, 1 mk. 90 pf.), or by boat 5 hrs., to Cologne (Hötel du Nord ; Disch; De Mayence; Victoria ; Ernst ; De Vienne), the sixth town in the German Empire (135,000 inhab.), and an important garrison. The streets are dark, narrow, and mediaeval. Many houses date from the 13th century. 70 wide COLOGNE. 219 streets have lately been laid out. Cologne was founded by the Ubii, when Agrippa transferred them to the l. bank of the Rhine; and colonized by Roman veterans when Germanicus held command, as Colonia Agrippina. It was the residence of the legates of Lower Germany. Constantine the Great built a bridge here in 308, afterwards destroyed by the Normans. From the 5th century it was a part of the Frankish kingdom. Exten- sive Roman remains here. The Cathedral, the grandest Gothic building in the world, was begun in 1248. The choir was consecrated in 1322, and the nave in 1388; but about 1500 the work ceased, and in 1795 the French troops used the half-ruinous ch. for a hay-magazine. Construction was resumed in 1823, and more than $3,000,000 spent upon it between 1842 and 1880, when it was consecrated, with imposing ceremonies. The superb W. façade and lofty portals are flanked by 2 huge towers, crowned by open spires, over 500 ft. high. The bells were placed in the S. tower in 1447; and in 1874 a new 30-ton bell, made from French cannon, was added. A forest of flying buttresses joins the nave and aisles. The total length is 444 ft. ; breadth, 201 ft. ; height of nave, 145 ft. There are 4 aisles; and the triple-aisled transepts extend to the imposing N. and S. portals. There are 56 vast columns inside. The stained win- dows in the N. aisle date from 1508–9; those in the S. aisle (equally beautiful) are Munich work of 1848. The Choir contains 14th-century statues of the 12 Apostles, 15th-century carved stalls, ancient stained windows, modern fresces of angel-choirs, modern tap- estries, and 7 wonderful chapels, with venerable tombs of the archbishops, the Bavarian Electors, etc. The reliquary in the Chapel of the Three Kings contains the bones of the Magi, carried to Constantinople by 220 COLOGNE. the Empress Helena, thence to Milan, and presented, by Barbarossa to Cologne's archbishop in 1164. The heart of Marie de Médicis is buried here. The Library contains Hildebald's precious MSS.; and many deeply interesting relics are in the Treasury and in the Archi- episcopal Museum, S. of the ch. See inner and outer galleries of the choir. The ch. is open all day, but walking about is not allowed during service. Over the rly.-bridge are equestrian statues of Fred- erick William IV. and William I. W. of the Cathedral is the great Gothic Museum (open 9–6, 75 pf.) with many hundred paintings, and very interesting Roman and mediaeval relics. In the adjacent Minorites' Ch., Duns Scotus is buried. Beautiful Gothic cloisters. Sf. Gereon’s Ch. (ſee, 1 mk.), contains the bones of the Theban Legion, martyred at Cologne, under Diocletian. Skulls and bones of the martyrs to be seen in the choir. Curious crypt. In St. Ursula is the tomb of that unhappy princess, who, with her 11,000 virgin com- panions, was massacred at Cologne on her return from Rome. The ch. (5th century; restored) has a Gothic portal. You are shown the bones of the martyrs in all parts of the ch. In the Treasury (fee, 1% mk) is St. Ursula’s Reliquary. Great St. Martin has a majestic tower, and an exquisite baptismal font, given by Pope Leo II. Sta. Maria-Im-Capitol, consecrated in 1049 by Pope Leo IX., is an imposing Romanesque ch. St. Peter has an altar-piece by Rubens. St. Cecilia dates from 1200. The Apostles' Ch. (1200) has a picturesque choir. S/. Cunibert (1248) has rich frescos and glass. See the Old Wall ; the Roman Tower ; the house in which Marie de Médicis died in exile and poverty; the Monument to Frederick William III., surrounded by statues of statesmen and generals who relieved the Rhine from French domination; and the bronze statue AIX—IA-CHAPELLE. 221 of Bismarck. The Rathhants (13th century) has the Lion's Court, and the quaint hall in which the first Diet of the Hanseatic League was held. See Botanic and Zoëlogical Gardens, and the many “original and only” shops where the Farina Eau de Cologne is sold. 1% hr. from Cologne (fares, 6 mks., 4% mks., 3 mks.), on the routes to Belgium and Paris, is Aix-la-Cha- pelle (Höffel Grand Monarque; Nuellens ; De l'Em- pereur; Bellevue ; Dragon d'Or), the Aachen of the Germans and the Aquisgranum of the Romans. This was the favorite residence of Charlemagne, and here he died in 814. Aix was at one time the capital of all the country N. of the Alps. 37 German emperors were crowned here. For centuries the Imperial Diets were held here. The modern town is handsome, with the characteristics of a watering-place. The warm Sulphur Springs were renowned in the Roman era, and wonder- ful cures are still effected by them. The most impor- tant is the Kaiserquelle. At the Elisenbrunnen crowds assemble daily in summer to drink the waters. The Kurhaus has a superb concert-hall (ſee, 50 pf.). In the Market-place is a fountain, with statue of Charle- magne. The great Cathedral is in two sections: the quaint-roofed Byzantine octagon (in the style of San Vitale, at Ravenna), built by Charlemagne, 796–804, and consecrated by Pope Leo III. ; and the lofty choir, in the best Gothic style (1353–1413). The octagon contains many fine columns, brought from Rome and Ravenna; bronze doors, cast in 804; and the pulpit, rich in gold and gems, presented by Henry II. See the stained windows, designed by Cornelius; and the 14th-century statues. The tomb of Charlemagne was opened by Otho III. in 1000; and by Barbarossa in 1165, when the body was removed from the marble throne on which it was seated, and placed in a Parian 222 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. — BONN. sarcophagus. The throne (afterwards used in the coronation ceremonies) and the sarcophagus are now in the gallery. The bones of Charlemagne are en- shrined in the Treasury, where are also the girdles of Christ and Mary, a piece of the True Cross, etc. (Open daily, 9–1, 3–6; 3 mks. for 1–3 persons.) Notice the old Flemish paintings inside of the cabinets. . Some of the holy treasures, such as the swaddling-clothes of the infant Saviour, are shown but once every 7 years. . The Rathhaus was built out of the débris of the pal- ace of the Carlovingian emperors (1376). The Hall of the Emperors (75 pf.) has noble frescos. The Warriors’ Monument commemorates the soldiers slain in 1866 and 1870–71. The Museum has some good pictures. Up the Rhine by Steamer. The journey can be made in 1 day from Cologne to Mayence. It is better to take 2 days, stopping at Coblence. There is a rly, on either bank, but the steam- boat is preferable. If, however, you wish to go from Cologne to Frankfort by rail, you can do so in 4 hrs. (fares, 12 mks., 9 mks., 6 mks.). By steamboat (large and fine boats) the fares from Cologne to Coblemice are 3 mks, 60 pf., 2 mks, 40 pf.; by the express boat the fare is 3 mks. 70 pf. From Coblence to Mayence, 3 mks. 70 pf., 2% mks. ; by express boat, 4% mks. Through tickets allow stopping off, but be careful to resume the journey, by the boats of the same company. You can fake rail from Cologne to Bonn (21 M.; fares, 23 mks., 1} mks., 1 mk. 30 pf.); from Cologne to Coblence 7 mks. 70 pf, 5 mks. 60 pf., 3 inks. 90 pf); from Co- blence to Frankfort (10 mks. 40 pf, 6 mks. 90 pf., 4 mks. 40 pf.). Bonn (Hôtel Stern, capital house; Kley; Royal ; UP THE RHINE. 223 Rheineck) has a beautiful location. Just beyond, the banks become bold and precipitous, and the beauties of the famous stream begin. The University occupies the old castle, built in 1717–30 as an electoral palace, and 1,800 ft. long. It has a library of 200,000 vols.; museums of Roman and Teutonic antiquities and of Arts (75 pf, each; catalogues for Sale). See bronze statue of Beethoven in the Münsterplatz. The Ca- thedral, founded by the mother of Constantine, is a cruciform basilica, with two choirs and a high octagonal tower. Bronze statue of the Empress Helena inside. Beethoven’s birthplace is in the Bonngasse. The Pop- pelsdorfer Schloss, reached by a quadruple avenue of horse-chestnuts 1; M. long, contains a very large natural- history collection (ſee, 75 pf). Chemical Laboratory near by. The Anatomie, a noble edifice, finished in 1872, is not far off. Beyond Poppelsdorf is the Kreuz- bery, 400 ft. high, on which is a ch. containing the Holy S/aircase, built in imitation of that at Rome, and to be mounted on the knees only. Bonn was the Cas- tra Bonnensia of Tacitus, a great Roman fortress. It has suffered terrible sieges. The Coblenzerstrasse is very handsome. The Provincial Museum, in the House of Arndt, is interesting. On the Alte Zoll is the Monument to Arndt. In the cemetery are buried Niebuhr the his- torian, Schlegel, Robert Schumann, Arndt, and Won Bunsen. Königswinter (Hôtel de l’Europe ; De Berlin), on the E. bank of the Rhine, is the point whence to visit the Siebengebirge. The Drachenfels (916 ft. high) may be climbed in 1 hr. (guide, 1 mk. ; donkey, 13 mk.). Half-way up, a road diverges to the far- viewing tower on the Hirschbery. To the W. is the Monument in memory of the events of 1813–15. The Castle stands uear the Terrace (where there is a good 224 ROLANDSECK. — NONNEN WERTH. hotel). It was built about 1100 by the first archbishop of Cologne, and takes its name from a dragon slain there by Siegfried, the Niebelungen hero. The red wine made from its vineyards is called Dragon's Blood. The castle was destroyed by Ferdinand of Bavaria, after a long siege. Ruins still magnificent. Superb view of the Seven Mts., the basalt cliffs behind Remagen, Oberwinter, the ruins of Rolandseck, Bonn, and Co- logne. See the cavern where the fabled dragon had his abode. An excursion may be made to the Oelberg, the view from which is the most extensive in the Rhine- land. Thence it is 13 hr. to Heisterbach, an old Cis- tercian abbey, in a beautiful valley. Little is left of the magnificent ch., built about 1200. From the Oel- berg, the Löwenburg (1,504 ft.), a castle where the Elector of Cologne had interviews with Melancthon before becoming a Protestant, may be reached. Fine view. Return from Heisterbach to Königswinter in #hr. by the Petersberg, whence good view. Königswinter is near most charming scenery. : 3: The boat touches at Rolandseck (Hôtel Roland. seck; Billau), # hr. above Königswinter. From res- taurant at the rly. stat., fine view of the Seven Mts., and the Rhine to Remagen. Rolandseck is a very opular summer-resort. Ruined Castle stands on a asalt rock, 347 ft. above the Rhine. It was founded by Roland, the Paladin of Charlemagne, who died at Roncesvalles. The island of Nonnenwerth, where stands the convent in which the beautiful Hildegarde is said to have taken the veil when she heard that Roland had perished in Spain, may be reached by a small boat (return-fare, 1 mk.). This convent is men- tioned in a document of the 12th century. It was sup- pressed in 1802, reconsecrated in 1845, and closed again in 1876. See Bulwer's Pilgrims of the Rhine, UP THE RHINE. 225 and Schiller's ballad of Ritter Tollenburg. At Rhein- breitbach (W. bank) is a large town, with towers, at the entrance of a valley filled with copper-mines. At Unkel (W. bank) the cliffs stand out into the bed of the stream, producing a rapid. Just above is Remagen (Höſel Firs/en/ery; König von Preussen), noticeable for its ch., on the Apollinarisberg (a hill to the N.), a pretty Gothic edifice with four towers, entirely modern, on the site of all old pilgrimage-shrine of the Middle Ages. It was built by Zwirner, architect of Cologne Cathedral, and contains 10 grand frescos, masterpieces of modern German art (open 9%–12 and 2–6; fee, 25 pf.). The legend states that when the Archbishop of Cologne was descending the Rhine (in 1164) with the bones of the Magi and the head of St. Apollinaris, Bishop of Ravenna, his boat was stopped here, by some mysterious power, until the latter was placed in the chapel on this site. Remagen was a Roman town (Rigomagus), but lost its importance in the Thirty Years' War. Beautiful excursions thence, between bold basaltic hills, up the Valley of the Ahr, where 4,000,000 bottles of red wine are produced yearly. It is 7 M. (carriage, 4 mks.) to the Baths of Neuenahr, a charming watering-place, with warm alkali springs, used for lung and liver diseases. Ahrweiler, a quaint little walled town, has the famous Apollinaris Spring. Ruined castles aud pretty villages abound. Opposite Remagen, over Erfel (E. bank), is a basaltic cliff 642 ft. high. Linz (Nassauer Hof) is an ancient town on the W. bank, with walls and pavements of basalt, and a 13th-century Romanesque ch., containing a triptych of the ancient Cologne school of art. The adjacent hills have interesting basalt-quarries, and crosses commemorating the battles of Leipsic and Waterloo rise on two of them. Arenfels castle, above 15 226 HAMMERSTEIN. — ANDERNACH. Linz, lately restored, has an ancient round tower, and, in the Knights' Hall, a collection of armor. Rheineck (W. bank), the boundary between the upper and lower Rhenish districts, is a lofty Romanesque castle on the site (and with a tower) of the fortress of the Rheinach family, founded in the 12th century. It may be visited from Brohl (; hr.), and has some fine paintings (fee, 50–75 pf.) and a superb view. It was sacked by the French in 1689 and by troops of Cologne in 1692. Farther up, near Brohl, is Hammerstein, a 10th-cen- tury castle, where Henry IV. took refuge from his sons, and which was held, during the Thirty Years' War, by Swedes, Spaniards, Germans, and Lorrainers. In 1660 the Archbishop of Cologne destroyed this too powerful neighbor. Roman ruins 4 M. E. . Andermach (Hötel Hackenbruch ; Glocke), on the W. bank, has narrow streets, ancient walls, a many- towered Romanesque ch. (1206), and a lofty watch- tower, built in 1414–68, and breached by French guns in 1688. It was one of the 50 forts of Drusus ; re- captured from the Alemanni by Julian in 339; a royal Franconian residence in the 6th century; an im- perial town later; stormed by Cologne troops in 1496; and burned by the French in 1688. The deep moat and massive towers of the castle remain (see Long- fellow’s Hyperion). Excursion to the Benedictine Abbey of Laach, founded in 1093, with magnificent Roman- esque ch. and cloisters, on the vast crater-lake of the Laacher See (6 M. around). The Rhine now flows through a defile, between rug- ged heights. Neuwied (Goldener Anker), on the E., has the palace and park of the Prince of Wied, and a community of austere Moravian Brethren, with ad- mirable schools and workshops. Monrepos is a château of the Prince, near by ; and Altwied, 3} M. out (car- UP THE RHINE." 227 riage, 4 mks.), is a picturesque ruined castle. Weissen- thurm is opposite Neuwied, with a white watch-tower marking the boundaries of Trèves and Cologne. Above is an obelisk to General Hoche, erected by a French army crossing the Rhine in 1797. Near Engers (E. bank) are fragments of Roman masonry, supposed to be parts of Julius Caesar's bridge across the Rhine (see Commentaries). Mühlhofen (E. bank) is 1; M. from the ruins of Sayn castle, and the great modern châ- teau of Sayn, rich in art. Kesselheim (W. bank) is near Schönbornslust, an old palace of the electors of Trèves and of the exiled Bourbons. On Niederwerth island, where Edward III. of England lived in 1337, is an old convent ch. At Neuendorf the small timber- rafts from the Upper Rhine and Moselle are enlarged and strengthened, before drifting Hollandward. The high fortress of Ehrenbreitstein now comes into view, and the palace of the Prussian King. Coblence (Höffel du Géamá; Bel/enue; Anker; Traube; De Trêves), the capital of Rhenish Prussia (30,000 inhab.), is at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle, whence the Romans called it Confluentia. It is a pow- erful fortress, with heights crossed with enormous forti- fications, and a garrison of 7,500 soldiers. The Palace was built by the last Elector of Trèves, and contains interesting Electoral Hall and Festival Hall, with por- traits, tapestries, etc. (fee, 1 mk.). The Mainzer-Tho" and others of the city gates are worthy of notice. St. Casſor is a handsome 4-towered basilica, founded in 836 and rebuilt in 1208. Before it is the historic Castor Fountain. The Moselle Bridge (14 arches) dates from 1344. The Rhine is crossed by a bridge of boats and by a very finerly. bridge. The Archiepiscopal Palace (now a factory) dates from 1276; the Liebfrauenkirche, from the 13th century; the Merchants' Hall, from 228 EHRENBREITSTEIN. – EMs. 1480. The Rhine Promenade is a beautiful waterside park. The Kiihkopf, 1,190 ft. high, commands a grand view over the Rhine and Moselle valleys. Fort Franz, on the Petersberg, and Forts Alea’ander and Constantime (superb view hence) guard the city. Across the Rhine is Ehrenbreitstein, “Honor's Broad Stone * (open daily; small fees for ticket and to guide), “The Gibraltar of the Rhine,” a vast fortress on a precipitous rock, 387 ft. above the river, and commanding a wonderful view. It was granted by King Dagobert to the arch- bishops of Trèves in 636, and has been beleaguered many times, but yielded only twice. The French de- stroyed the works in 1801; but they were rebuilt, 1816–26, at a cost of $6,000,000. Eccursions from Coblence. — It is 1 hr.'s rly. ride (13 mk., 1 mk., 70 pf), or 7M. walk from Ehrenbreitstein to Ems (Hotel d’Angleferre ; De Russie ; Des Quatre Saisons ; De Darmstadt), a little town on the Lahn, amid wooded heights, annually visited by 12,000 health- seekers (season, July 15–Sept. 1). The waters (saline and alkaline) are beneficial in pulmonary and female complaints, and have been used since 1354. The Kur- haus and Kursaal are the centre of the exotic life, and stand amid pleasant gardens. Up the Moselle, by steamer 1174 M. (6 mks., 4 mks.), 4 times weekly, in 13 days, passing the night at Trarbach, and reaching Trèves at 3 P.M. Voyage back to Coblence, 12 hrs. (8 mks., 5 mks. 30 pf.). Rly. to Trèves in 2% hrs. (69; M.; fares, 9 mks., 6 mks. 80 pf., 4% mks.). The valley of the Moselle is very beautiful, and interesting historically. Over Cobern is a wonderful pilgrimage-chapel; over Brodenbach, the splendid Ehrenburg ruin; over Cochem, two fine castles and a monastery; over Trarðach, the ancient Gräfinburg; and near Neumagen, Roman ruins. UP THE MOSELITE. * 229 Trèves (Höfel de Trêves; Roſhes Haus), on the Moselle, was the capital of the Treviri; then the Au- gusta Trevirorum of the Romans; then capital of Gaul, and Rome's rival in art and commerce. This oldest city of Germany has only 22,000 inhab.; although its well-preserved amphitheatre, in which Constantine delivered thousands of Franks to be torn by wild beasts (A.D. 306), accommodates 57,000 spectators. The vast ruins of the Roman Ba/hs were connected with the Palace of the Emperors. The Porta Nigra is a huge Roman gateway of blackened sandstone, 115 ft. long and 93 ft. high. The Cathedral dates from 550, − a vast structure, under which repose the archbishops and electors of Trêves. Here are preserved Christ's seamless robe, a nail from the Cross, a fragment of the Crown of Thorns. Cloisters run thence to the Lieb- /rauenkirche, a beautiful circular ch. (1243). The Basilica, built before Constantine, successively a Ro- man court-house, exchange, imperial governors' palace, bishops' palace, and barrack, is now a ch. The Museum and Town Library contain rare MSS., portraits, and Roman antiquities. Rly. from Trèves to Thionville and Lua embourg (# hr.). Ascending the Rhine from Coblence, Capellen (Höfel Stolzenfels; Bellevue) is soon reached (W. bank), over which rises the royal castle of Stolzenfels (en- trance, 1 mk.; donkeys to ride up and back, lmk. 20 pf.), 420 ft. above the Rhine, with a magnificent view. It was built in 1250 by the Archbishop of Trèves, and inhabited by his successors. The French destroyed it in 1688; and since 1823 it has been restored by the Prussian King. Rich historical frescos in Chapel and Knights' Hall; many rare old pictures and curiosities. Oberlahnstein (Höfel Weller; Lahneck), opposite Capellen (ferry-steamer), is near the lately restored ºğaºğ.S., º, . . . . . x - - - 230 BOPPARD. —ST, GOAR. castle of Lahneck. Above Capellen is Königsstuhl, where the 4 Rhenish Electors used to meet, in open air, to elect emperors and conclude treaties. The Em- peror Charles IV. built a castle here in 1376. Farther up is Rhense (W.), with walls and a moat constructed by the Archbishop of Cologne in 1370. Braubach is under Marksburg, an imposing castle 492 ft. above the Rhine, founded before 1400, and still uninjured and inhabited. Old Swedish and French cannon here. Boppard (Zum Spiegel; fº/einischer), on the W. bank, was a Celtic town; fortified by the Romans, and named Baudobrica : headquarters of the 13th Legion; seat of a Lodge of Knights Templar; and an Imperial town. The inner wall is Roman, the outer wall mediaeval; and the two chs. date from 1200 and 1500. The high-placed Marienberg, formerly a Benedictine nunnery, is now a water-cure. The situation is lovely, in a broad bend of the Rhine, above which the mts. recede, giving place to rich meadows and green fields. Opposite pretty Salzig, famous for cherries, are twin rocky peaks, whereon rise the ruined castles of Stern- berg and Liebenstein, to which attaches the legend of Conrad, Heinrich, and Hildegarde. Over Welmäch (E.) rises the castle of Thurnberg, finished in 1363, and then derisively called The Mouse. The handsome old town of St. Goar (founded in 570) is overlooked by the grandest ruin on the river, the famous Rheinfels, dating from 1245; besieged by 26 Rhenish towns in 1255; held by the French, 1758–63, 1794–97, and blown up by them; and now royal property. St. Goarshausen (steam-ferry to St. Goar) is under the castle called The Cat, built in 1393, and blown up by the French in 1794. Many charming excursions from either of these towns. The noble and well-preserved ruin of Reichenberg castle OBERWESEL–BACHARACH. 231 (1280) is 3 M. E. The picturesque Swiss Valley is back of St. Goarshausen. Above is the Lurlei rock, a precipice 433 ft. high, rising over whirlpools in the deepest and narrowest part of the Rhine, and the fabled seat of a siren who lured sailors to death. Farther up are the Seven Pir/ins’ rocks, with their grim legend. Oberwesel (Rheinischer Hof), on the W., is a remarkably picturesque old Roman town, rich in wine and scenery, and beloved by artists, who haunt the gray old walls, the massive mediaeval towers, the 15th- century Ch. of Our Lady, with rare old carvings and pictures, and the Chapel on the riverward wall, com- memorating a terrible deed in 1286. Above all, Schönburg, the lofty castle, the birthplace of Marshal Schomberg, who lies in Westminster Abbey. This many-towered cradle of a race of warriors was de- molished by Louis XIV.’s troops in 1689. Caub, abounding in wine and salt, on the E. bank, is under the castle of Gutenfels, built in 1277, and destroyed in 1807. Above is the Pfalz, a hexagonal fortress in the middle of the Rhine, built by Lewis of Bavaria about the year 1200. Thence he used to swoop down upon passing vessels, and exact tribute. Hereabouts, Blücher's and York’s Prussian and Russian armies crossed the Rhine, Jan. 1, 1814. Bacharach (Hotel Wasum ; Blücherthal), on the W. bank, is a favorite resort, and its wines, celebrated in Longfellow’s Golden Legend, still entitle it to the name Ara Bacchi (altar of Bacchus), which the Middle- Ages men gave it. The great fire of 1872 destroyed many rare old houses; but the gray walls, descending from Stahleck, still envelop the town: and the beau. tiful Gothic ruin of St. Werner's Ch., and the stately Romanesque Si. Peter's Ch., of the Templars, sti stand fast. Overhead is Stahleck castle, the home sºmºsºsº.º.º.º.º.w.…*.*.*.*.*.* 232 LORCH. — BINGEN. of the Counts Palatine until 1265, besieged 8 times by the French between 1620 and 1640, and blown up in 1680. Fürstenberg, another noble ruin, is near by. The robber-knights fired thence on the ship in which Adolph of Nassau was descending to Aix-la- Chapelle, to be crowned Emperor (1292). Excursion up the narrow Steeg Valley; also to Kreuznach. Lorch (Hôtel Schwan), on the E. bank, the Roman Laureaeum, has a Flamboyant 12th-century ch., with quaint monuments and fine bells. Near by, over the Devil's Ladder cliff, is Nollingen castle. Wiederheim- bach (W. bank) is under Hohneck, or Heimburg castle. Above is Sooneck castle, built in 1015 by the Arch- bishop of Mayence; and Falkenburg, or the Reichen- stein, destroyed as a robbers’ nest by the Rhenish towns (1251), and again by Rudolph of Hapsburg, who hung its knights from the windows. Rheinstein, farther up (W. bank), is a picturesque castle, built be- fore 1279, and restored 1825–29 by Prince Frederick of Prussia, who is buried here (entrance, # mk.). Assmannshausen (Hotel Krone; Anker), on the E., exports aromatic red wine all over the world. Above is the rapid of the Binger Loch, where the raftsmen have hard work. Ehrenfels (E. bank) is a high tower, built in 1210 by the Governor of the Rheingau, dam- aged by the Swedes in 1635, and demolished by the French in 1689. Beyond are the terraced slopes which produce the Rüdesheim wine. Opposite Ehrenfels, on quartz ledges in the stream, is the Mouse Tower, where, as legend tells, Archbishop Hatto of Mayence was devoured alive by mice because he caused a crowd of famine-stricken peasants to be burned to death, com- paring them to corn-destroying mice. Bingen (Hôtel Victoria ; Bellevue) is under the wooded heights at the mouth of the Nahe, amid very * METZ. 233 * charming scenery, where the Rhine bends around the Miederwald, on which is the new National Monument, with huge bronze statues, etc. On the Drususberg are the ruins of Klapp, once a Roman castle, destroyed by the French in 1689. The Rochusberg (341 ft. high) overlooks the beautiful Rheingau; the Niederwald gives another ravishing view. Rly. from Rüdesheim to Wiesbaden, Frankfort, Ems, and Nassau; and from Bingerbrück to Mayence, Coblence, Cologne, and Kreuznach (Hof von Holland; Adler), a prettily situ- ated watering-place, where 6–8,000 persons go yearly for the salt-baths, efficient in cutaneous troubles. From Bingerbrück one can go, by the Frankfort-Paris route, to Metz in 8–9 hrs. (fares, 17 mks. 90 pf., 13 mks., 8 mks. 60 pf), passing Kreuznach ; Oberstein, a beautiful village on the Nahe, devoted to polishing agates; Neunkirchen ; and Saarbrücken, 3 M. N. of the battle-ground of Spicheren (1870; carriage to field, 12 mks.). Metz (Höffel de l’Europe ; De Metz ; De Paris), a city of 40,000 inhab., on the Moselle, once the capital of the kingdom of Austrasia, was seized by France in 1552, and regained by Germany in 1870, after a pro- longed siege, and several terrible battles near Gravelotte and Mars-la-Tour, on the W. (see local guides). Since then the victors have greatly extended the vast fortress. The citizens are ultra-French. The Cathedral is a mag- miſicent 13th-century Gothic ch., with a tower 387 ft. high. In front is a statue of Louis XIV.'s Marshal Tabert. Marshal Ney's statue is on the Esplanade, Ilear the Palace of Justice. Rüdesheim (Rheinstein; Bellevue), nearly opposite Bingen, has rich wines, far-viewing heights, wild le. gends, and a vast Roman fortress. Farther up is Geisen- heim, with ancient monasteries and rich vineyards. On the heights is Johannisberg, where, on the site of a 234 MAYENCE. Benedictime convent of 1106, the Abbot of Fulda built a castle, afterwards granted to Prince Metternich, and now amid the best vineyards on the Rhine, and com- manding a superb view. Beautiful walks from Rü- desheim hence, or to Eltville. The river scenery above Bingen is less interesting, and many travellers go hence to Mayence by rail (#hr.; by steamer, 2% hrs.). Above Geisenheim, well in-shore on the r., is Ingelheim, the site of Charlemagne’s great palace. Eltville (on the 1.) has fine villas and venerable ruins, and is 4 M. from the famous warm baths of Schlangenbad. From Bie- brich, rly. to Wiesbaden. Above is Petersau, where Louis the Pious, Charlemagne’s son, died in 840. Mayence (Hôtel de Hollande ; D’Angleterre ; Rhein- ischer) is a city of 56,000 inhab., and an important strategic position, commanding the confluence of the Rhine and Main (garrison, 8,000 men). It was the Roman Moguntiacum, fortified by Drusus (B. c. 14), and headquarters of the 14th and 22d Legions. The Cita- del, on their camp-ground, has a monument erected by his soldiers to Drusus, who died here. Pope Zacharias (in 751) made St. Boniface, the English missionary, Archbishop of Mayence (the first German bishopric); and after 1250 “Golden Mayence ’’ originated and headed the league of 100 Rhenish towns. In 1462 Archbishop Adolph killed the foremost citizens, and Mayence became a mere archiepiscopal town. The French republicans took it in 1792, and it was a French town for 17 years. In 1814 it became Hessian. The Cathedral, begun in 978, and 6 times burned and restored, is a vast structure, with domes and round towers (one 324 ft. high) and splendid brass gates (made in 1135). The interior is very grand, richly frescoed (by Weit), with choirs on E. (1175) and W. (1239), and 56 columns upholding the vaulting (open MAYENCE. 235 till 11.30, and 3–6). There are scores of fine old monu- ments, including one to Fastrada, Charlemagne’s wife. The restored Cloisters, built in 1412, are the finest in W. Germany, and contain Schwanthaler's monument to the pious minstrel Heinrich von Meissen (died 1318), erected by the women of Mayence in 1842. Thor- waldsen’s statue of Gutenberg, the inventor of printing, stands near the Cathedral; and the house in which he was born is not far off. St. Stephen's Ch. (1257–1318) and cloisters are on high ground, and the tower overlooks Mayence. The Electoral Palace, built 1627–78, and used by the French for storing hay, is in the N. E. quarter, and contains a rich museum (fee, 1 mk. ; free Sun., 9–1, Thurs., 2–5) of Roman-Germanic relics, a library of 100,000 vols., and a Picture-Gallery of 9 rooms, with many fine old paintings (Titian, Murillo, Holbein, etc.). The Grand-Ducal Palace, opposite, was a Lodge of the Teutonic Order, and has an arsenal attached. There are charming walks along the river . and in the Neue Anlage park. From the pontoon-bridge leading to the strongly fortified suburb of Castel, see the ancient water-mills, moored to the sunken pillars of Charlemagne's bridge (793—803). A Run through North Germany. With Frankfort and Wiesbaden. The traveller should now determine whether to hasten on to Switzerland, or (which is much better) spend a few days in Germany, going from Mayence to Frankfort, Weimar, and Berlin; and thence down to Dresden, Prague, and Vienna; returning to the Rhineland by Nuremberg, Munich, and Heidelberg. Tourists going direct to Switzerland may pass S. from Mayence, by Worms and Strasburg, to Basle, in 10– 14 hrs., or by Darmstadt, Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, Baden, and the Black Forest. <& -2 & <<& º'. S. & 236 FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. From Mayence it is # hr. by rly. (fares, 2 mks. 95 pf., 1 mk.95 pf., 1 mk. 30 pf.) to the Prussian city of Frank- fort-on-the-Main (Hotel de Frankfort ; De Russie ; Roman Emperor; D’Angleterre ; Schwan; Westendhall), which has 118,000 inhab., and stands on a mountain- girdled plain. Charlemagne held a council here in 794, and later sovereigns granted high privileges. From 1356 to 1806 this was the place of election for the German emperors (beginning with Barbarossa), many of whom were crowned here. It was a free city from 1814 to 1866, when Prussia annexed it. Frankfort is a handsome and agreeable, place, with good society and vast wealth. The ancient Römer, or Town Hall, con- tains the Emperors' Hall, and the room in which the electors met to choose the emperors. In front, the coronation festivals were given. Up to 1800 no Jews were allowed on this square. In the Cathedral (1238) the coronations took place. The new Archives build- ing has an historical museum. The bridge over the Main (leading to Sachsenhausen), built in 1342, has a statue of Charlemagne. The Saalhof has a chapel of the Carlovingian kings. The Erchange is a very hand- some modern building. The 13th-century chs. of St. Leonhard and St. Nicholas are interesting. The house in which Goethe was born, and where he wrote Werther, is public property. His statue (with bas-reliefs) by Schwanthaler is near the Rossmarkt square; and there is another in the Town Library (150,000 vols.). The Städel Institute has a school of fine arts, collections of engravings, drawings, and casts, and several hundred pºintings of merit (open daily, 11–2; catalogue, 1 mk.). The Ariadneum contains Dannecker's famous Ariadne, etc. (open daily, 10–1; 50–75 pf). The Zeil is the most brilliant street in Frankfort. See Palm Garden, splendid new Opera-House, Natural-History Museum, HOMBURG. — wiFSBADEN. 237 and Zoëlogical Garden. The Judengasse quarter, where the persecuted Jews lived, 1462–1806, and where the Rothschilds originated, is being modernized. Chains and gates formerly closed the streets at even- ing and on Sundays, and no Jew was allowed outside. From Frankfort it is #hr. by rly. (fares, 1 mk. 80 pf., 1 mk., 60 pf.) to Homburg (Four Seasons Hotel; De. Russie), a celebrated watering-place on the Taunus Mts. Iron and saline springs in the superb gardens of the Kurhaus (library, reading-room, and fine saloons). Gambling was abolished here in 1870. See the castle of the Landgraves. 13 M. N. on the mts. is a massive Roman fort, built by Germanicus, and a remnant of the wall, 150 M. long, which protected the Rhineland. From Frankfort it is 1 hr. by rly. (fares, 3 mks. 40 pf, 2} mks., 1 mk. 45 pf.) to Wiesbaden (Nassauer Hof; Hôtel des Quatre Saisons; Wictoria ; Rose; Adler), in the lovely valley of the Salzbach, on the vine and grove- clad S.W. spurs of the Taunus Mts. 60,000 visitors annually partake of the warm saline waters, beneficial for rheumatism and gout. Pliny mentions these fontes calidi ; and the camps of the 14th and 22d Legions were near by. The air is very healthy, and the town pretty. Back of the handsome Kursaal is an extensive park, the favorite resort of visitors. See the 2 palaces, the museum, and picture-gallery, the library, the Gov- ernment buildings, and the 5-towered Gothic ch., with its colossal statues. The Heidenmauer, N. W. of the town, is a Roman wall, 650 ft. long, 10 ft. high, and 9 ft. thick. Frankfort to Hanover, Hamburg, and Bremen. From Frankfort a rly, runs N. W. across Hesse (5–8 hrs. ; fares, 16 mks., 12 mks., 8 mks.), by high-walled Friedberg ; the mineral springs of Nauheim ; the rly. 2 junction of Giessen ; and historic Marburg, with its splendid chs, and castle; to Cassel (Höffel Schirmer), the beautiful old Hessian capital (50,000 inhab.), with its electoral palaces and vast Museum Friedericianum (200,000 vols. ; myriads of gems, mosaics, weapons, ivories, etc.). In the Bellevue castle is a gallery of .several hundred fine old paintings. Wilhelmshöhe, 4 M. distant, is a sumptuous palace, in a park famous for its fountains and cascades. Here Napoleon III. was imprisoned in 1870–71. | From Cassel it is 4–5 hrs. (13 mks. 40 pf., 10 mks. 10 pf., 6 mks. 70 pf.), by Göttingen, famous for its university, to Hanover (British Hotel; Royal; Union), a handsome city of 150,000 inhab., once capital of Hanover, and since 1866 a Prussian provincial capital. See the palaces of the Hanoverian kings; the Royal Library, of 170,000 vols.; the handsome Theatre ; the Museums ; and nu- merous statues and monuments. N. W. is the imposing Palace of the Guelphs; also, Herrenhausen, the subur- ban palace and park of the dethroned dynasty. Hano- ver is 10 hrs. from Rotterdam, on the route to Berlin; and 7–10 hrs. from Berlin, via Brunswick (fares, 3 mks. 80 pf., 2% mks.) and Magdeburg. Brunswick (Schra- der's Hofel ; Deu/sches), the residence of the Duke of Brunswick, with 74,000 inhab., has a mediaeval air, with its ancient Gothic Town Hall; St. Martin’s Ch., rich in carvings; the Cathedral, built by the Crusader Henry the Lion in 1173; the bronze Lion monument (1166); etc. The splendid new Ducal Palace is near the Ducal Museum, in which are 900 pictures, and countless other relics and curios. See also the War Monument and the Theatre. The fortifications have been replaced by promenades and gardens. Magdeburg (Prince Bis- march) on the Elbe, has 128,000 inhab., and a very cele- brated Cathedral (1208). Great cannon-foundry near. HAMBURG. — BREMEN. 239 From Hanover it is 112 M. (4–5 hrs. ; fares, 16 mks. 30 pf., 12# mks., 8 mks.) by Lineburg, with its ancient houses and chs., to Hamburg (Hôtel de l’Europe ; Victoria ; St. Petersburg), which (with Altona) has 470,000 inhab, and is next after London, Liverpool, Glasgow, and Antwerp as a commercial city. It is on the lower Elbe, and is the chief of the 3 Hanseatic towns. Charlemagne founded a castle here (805), and Louis the Pious an archbishopric ; but the city is now all modern. There are vast and crowded quays, shipyards, rlys., docks, a busy Exchange, a Town Li- brary (250,000 vols.), museums, monuments, and a good Art-Gallery. The Binnen-Alster is a charming water- park, 1 M. around, surrounded by quays and prome- mades, lines of trees, and blocks of handsome houses and hotels, and enlivened by many pleasure-boats and groups of Swans. From Hamburg, trains run S.W., 76 M.(2} hrs.; fares 10% mks., 7} mks., 4% mks.), across a poor, flat ºft- to Bremen illmann's Hotel; De l'Europe ; Dâ Nord), another great Hanseatic commercial town, on the Weser River, with 105,400 inhab. See the richly decorated Rathhaus (1410); the frescoed Rathskeller, famous for wines; the 11th-century Romanesque Cathe- dral; the Kunsthalle, with pictures; the splendid new Gothic Evchange; and colossal Roland statue (1412). Frankfort to Weimar, Leipsic, and Berlin. Time required, 12–14 hrs. ; fares, 43 mks. 40 pf., 32 mks. 60 pf, 22 mks. 40 pf . This route passes through Fulda, an ancient ecclesiastical capital; and in 5–6 hrs. reaches Eisenach (Grossherzog von Sachsen), the quiet town where Luther went to school. Near by is the Wartburg, a lofty Romanesque castle, founded in 1070, --~~~~ * ...***** * :::::::::::::: *-s º' … .….…. <%: . . . . . . .3- - -- ~~~~~~~~% º' . 240 GOTHA. — WEIMAR. — LEIPSIC. and lately restored and richly frescoed. Here Luther was hidden, 1521–22, and many relics of his sojourn are shown. , 4 hrs. S., beyond the Ducal capital of Mei- ningen, is Coburg (Victoria), a handsome Franconian city, with a remarkable castle. - On the Berlin route is Gotha (Deutscher Hof), a pleasant ducal city, with 20,000 inhab. In and near the great Friedenstein Palace are remarkable collections of antiquities, coins, objects of art, sculptures, engrav- ings, a library of 200,000 vols., and a famous picture- allery. The Thuringian Forest lies around the Eisenach- Gotha rly. Erfurt (Römischer Kaiser) is an ancient Prussian fortress, with 50,000 inhab., a high-placed Gothic Cathedral, and the Augustinian Monastery in which Luther became a monk in 1505. Farther on toward Berlin is Weimar (Erbprinz ; Russischer Hof), capital of the grand-duchy of Saxe-Weimar, an ancient town of 15,- 000 inhab. Goethe lived here 56 years, until his death in 1832; and his collections are shown (Fri.). Schil- ler's house is open daily. Herder and Wieland also lived at Weimar. Statues of all these are in the town; and frescos from their works adorn the handsome Grand-Ducal Palace. Their busts and many curiosi- ties are in the Grand-Ducal Library (170,000 vols.; open daily). The Museum (open April–Sept., 10–4) has many curios and paintings. The Stadtkirche (1400) has a Crucifixion by Cranach, and the tomb of Herder. Schiller and Goethe are buried in the cemetery, S. of the town. Farther towards Berlin is - Leipsio (Hôtel Hauffe ; De Russie ; Palmbaum; De Prusse ; De Bavière), a city of 150,000 inhab., the centre of the German book-trade, the seat of high imperial tribunals, and the place where 3 great fairs are held yearly, drawing many traders even from Asia and * - - - - - - - - - - - - ------------~~~~~~~~~~~~~…~~~~. . . ...e.------------ LEIPSIC. — BERLIN. 241 the Levant. 30,000 strangers come to these fairs; and the annual sales (largely of furs, leather, and cloths) ex- ceed $50,000,000. These picturesque exchanges have been carried on for over 700 years. There are 300 booksellers and 60 printing-offices here. The Museum has Thorwaldsen’s Ganymede, and an immense collec- tion of paintings and engravings, mostly modern (open Sun., Wed., and Fri., free ; Tues., Thurs., and Sat., # mk.). The Augusteum is the seat of the University, which was founded in 1402, and has 3,200 students and a library of 350,000 vols. and 4,000 MSS. See the New Theatre, with beautiful Corinthian façade; the Pleis- senburg citadel; the Old House, in the Grimma'sche Strasse; Auerbach’s Keller, where part of the scene of Goethe's Faust is laid; the house in the Bruhl where Richard Wagner was born ; the Ethnographical Museum, etc. In 4 Oct. days of 1813, 300,000 Prussians, Aus- trians, and Russians, headed by their sovereigns, de- feated Napoleon and 140,000 Frenchmen here, and drove them out of Leipsic. 2,000 cannon were en- gaged, and over 90,000 men were killed and wounded. On the Leipsic-Magdeburg-Hamburg rly, is Halle (S/ad! Hamburg ; Kronprinz), with 60,000 inhab., and a famous university (1,000 students). In the market- place is the ancient Rathhaus, the many-towered Ch. of Our Lady (1530), a clock-tower 276 ft. high, and a statue of Handel (born at Halle, 1685). Berlin, (Hôtel Royal ; Kaiser Hof; Métropole; St. Peters- bury; Meinhardt’s Du Word; De Rome; Imperial ; Wictoria), the capital of Prussia and of Germany (1,090,000 inhab.), is 3–4 hrs, from Leipsic, on an uninteresting sandy plain, by the river Spree. Origi- + 16 242 BERLIN. nally a Wendish fishing-village, and afterwards a Han- seatic town, it was notably improved by the Great Elector (1640–88), and by Frederick the Great and his predecessor (1713–86). Since 1861, when the present King was crowned, the population has doubled, and the arts and trades have flourished remarkably. The best part of the city may be seen by walking down the Unter den Linden, a broad avenue, 1 M. long, with double rows of lime-trees, from the Bran- denburg Gate to the Royal Palace. The Gate is an imitation of the Propylaea at Athens, crowned by a fine statue of Victory with horses. This was taken to Paris in 1806 as a trophy. Outside is the Thier- garten; and inside is the Pariser-Platz, with Prince Blücher’s palace on the S., and the French Embassy on the N. There are several other embassies and palaces on the Linden, with various government buildings. The Florentine palace of Count Redern contains a fine picture-gallery. See also the Aquarium, the splendid arcade of the Kaiser-Gallerie, and the Café Bauer. The bronze statue of Frederick the Great, by Rauch, is called the finest of its kind in Europe. The King is on horseback, in his coronation-robes; and the lofty pedestal is surrounded with life-size statues of his gen- erals, princes, etc. To the S. is the Emperor's Palace, in which is the Royal Library (open daily, 11-4), with 400,000 vols. and 15,000 MSS. N. is the Academy of Art, where exhibitions take place in Sept. and Oct.; and the Academy of Science; also the University (3,000 students), once Prince Henry’s palace, and partly en- closing gardens in which are statues of the Humboldts. Fine anatomical, mineral, and zoölogical collections here; and a library of 100,000 vols. The Opern Platz contains statues of 5 generals, by Rauch, and is bounded by the Palace, University, Opera House, and BERLIN. 243 St. Hedwig’s Ch., an imitation of the Roman Pantheon. Farther E., on the Linden, at the r. is the Crown- Prince's Palace ; and at the 1. is the Royal Guard- House (military music daily, 11–12), a copy of a Roman fortified gate. Back of this is the Singing- Academy; and on one side is the handsome Arsenal, with many rare trophies of war. Close by is the Schloss Bridge, adorned with 8 groups of statuary, and leading to the Lustgarten, a park in which stands an equestrian statue of Frederick William III. On one side is the Royal Palace, a vast double quadrangle, built since 1540, and containing 600 rooms (open daily, 10–4). See Swiss Hall, King's Hall, Red-Eagle Hall, Throne Hall (throne of solid silver, 8 ft. high), Black Eagle Hall, Picture Gallery (fine modern battle-paint- ings), White Saloon (statues of the 12 Electors), and Chapel, rich in alabaster and gems, and splendidly frescoed. The adjacent Cathedral contains the royal tombs. Opposite the palace is the Old Museum, the finest building in the city, with a grand Ionic portico, adorned with colossal bronze groups, and richly fres- coed halls (open daily, 10–4). See the vast collections of antiquities; the halls of Greek, Roman, mediaeval, and modern sculptures; and the Hall of the Heroes. The New Museum is entered from the Old, and contains Kaulbach’s famous mural paintings, the Egyptian mu- seum, an immense collection of casts, 12 cabinets of Northern antiquities, 4 rooms of objects of art, and 500,000 engravings. It has a Renaissance façade to the E.; and opposite is the new Corinthian temple of the National Gallery (open daily, 11–3), which con- tains a magnificent and world-renowned collection of ancient and modern paintings. The Friedrichs-Stadt is the business centre of Berlin, and the streets in this section are interesting. 244 - BERLIN. The Theatre is a classic structure, on the Schiller-Platz, with several fine bronze groups; in front, a noble statue of Schiller. The Wilhelmstrasse contains notable palaces; and in the hºllhelms-Platz are statues of 6 of Frederick the Great’s generals. The Palace of Prince Charles, fronting here, has a museum of weapons. On the busy Leipziger-Strasse are the War and Navy Offices and the Hall of the Imperial Diet (built in 1871). Just beyond the Leipziger-Platz (several statues) is the Požsdam Gate, near the Botanical Gardens (1 mk.) and the Industrial Museum (open daily, 10–3). Near the Halle Gate is the Belle Alliance Platz, with the lofty granite Column of Peace (1840), surrounded by splen- did marble groups. # M. outside is the Kreuzberg, with a tall iron obelisk. S. of the Schloss-Brücke is the Academy of Architec- ture (600 students), with museum. N. is the Schinkel. Platz, with 3 bronze statues. The Artists’ Union has a large picture-gallery; and near it (92–93 Wall-St.) is Ravenč’s Gallery of modern pictures. The Kurfür. sten Bridge leads from the square, S. of the Royal Palace into old Berlin, where are the Imperial Post- Office and the 14th-century Ch. of St. Mary. The Rathhaus (open 11–3) is an immense Romanesque building of brick (1860–70), with a tower 276 ft. high, and several handsome halls. Underneath is the Raths- Keller, a great refreshment-room. Opposite the Museum is the Erchange, a sumptuous Renaissance building, with the greatest hall in Berlin, richly frescoed. Be- yond the Hercules Bridge (on which are statues by Schadow) is Monbijou, a beautiful royal palace, in which is an historical museum (daily, 10–5). Near by is the great Synagogue, Moorish in style. The splendid Königs-Platz adjoins the Thiergarten, and contains the Monument of Victory, 190 ft. high, Potsdam. 245 commemorating the battles of 1870–71. The Raczynski Palace, on the W., has a famous picture-gallery (open daily, 11–3). The Avenue of Victory, Berlin's favorite promenade, leads through the Thiergarten, a park 2 M. long and # M. wide, with many ponds and groves of large trees. Here are beer-gardens and summer- theatres, and monuments. At the end is a large Zoëlogical Garden. Horse-cars run through it (3 M.; # hr.) to Charlottenburg, a large town with a Palace (1699) in a handsome garden, and a Mausoleum, with sculptures by illustrious masters. In Berlin's Old Trinity Cemetery, Mendelssohn is buried; and in Trinity Cemetery, Schleiermacher and Neander. Cornelius rests in Hedwig’s Cemetery; Rauch, Schadow, Schinkel, Hegel, and Fichte, in the Old Dorotheenstadt Cemetery; and the Humboldts, at Tegel. Potsdam is 16 M. from Berlin (; hr. ; fares, 2 mks. 10 pf., 1 mk. 60 pf, 1 mk. 5 pf.), among wooded hills and the lakelike expanses of the Havel. Here is the Sanssouci Palace, built by Frederick the Great, and full of reminiscences of him. Near by are the Picture- Gallery, the Orangery (adorned with fine statuary), and the Sicilian Garden. The New Palace (1763) has 200 richly adorned rooms, with fine paintings, and a noteworthy Marble Saloon. The Marble Palace is N. of Potsdam, and has many paintings. Babelsberg is a new Gothic palace, with rich art-treasures. The Royal Palace (1660) is full of relics of the Great Frederick. The Garrison Church contains his tomb and military trophies. The Church of Peace is a noble Ionic basilica, with masterpieces of sculpture. The famous Sanssouci fountains play on summer Sunday afternoons. There are ...' châteaux of princes near Potsdam (50,000 inhab.). * 246 DRESIDEN. Dresden and Prague. Express-trains, Berlin to Dresden, 3 hrs. (108 M. ; 15 mks. 70 pf., 11 mks. 70 pf., 8 mks. 20 pf.). Dresden (Hôtel Bellevue ; Victoria ; De Saare ; Grand Union ; Berlin ; Rome; Rheinischer Hof; Gotha, Weber's, De France), “The German Flor- ence,” has 212,000 inhab., and has been the capital of Saxony since 1485. Many British and American fami- lies dwell here, induced by the abundant facilities for culture and amusement, and also by the cheapness of living. The Elbe is crossed by 2 stone bridges, and bordered by the popular promenade, the Brühl Ter- race, adorned with statuary and trees. Here front the Synagogue, the Art Academy, the Exhibition Buildings, and the Court Ch. (famous music, Sun., 11–12 and 4); and the Botanical Garden, the new Law Courts, St. John’s Ch., and the Maurice Monument are nearby. Near the Court Ch. are the new Theatre (with statues) and the Guard House. The Palace (1534) is an irregular double quadrangle, with a tower 361 ft. high, and a richly frescoed Throne Room. The Green Vault (9–2 daily; catalogue, 1 mk.) contains the largest existing collection of objects of art, bronzes, ivory carvings, mosaics, enamels, gems, crystal, and magnificent plate; also the regalia of Poland and Sax. ony, superb state swords, and precious stones of enor- mous value; and works of Dürer, Angelo, and Cellini. The Museum, near the Theatre, is a Renaissance building, decorated with statues and sculptures, and containing the finest picture-gallery N. of Italy (open daily; catalogue, 2% mks.). Here are 2,400 paintings, including the Sistine Madonna, Correggio's La Notte, and Titian’s Tribute Money; and choice works of SAXON SWITZERLAND. 247 Murillo, Dürer, Teniers, Veronese, etc.; also, 350,000 engravings, a great museum of casts, collections in natural history and mineralogy, and the most interest- ing Historical Museum in Germany (ancient weapons, armor, furniture, and trophies of war). See the Eng- lish ch. ; the stone-domed Ch. of Our Lady; the Cross Ch., with tower 346 ft. high, and fountains and statues in the streets. Monument to the War of 1870–71, in the Old Market. The Japanese Palace, across the Elbe, contains the Royal Library, with 500,000 vols., 4,000 MSS., and many rare old books and maps (free Wed. and Sat., 10–12; other days, # mk.); the Collection of Porcelain (15,000 pieces of Dresden, Sèvres, and Ori- ental wares; open daily); and collections of coins and antiquities. In the rear is the pretty Japanese Garden, near which Körner was born and Schiller dwelt. The Grosse Garten is a royal park of 300 acres, wherein the French and Prussians fought in 1813. Here is the Zoological Garden; also a château with Museum of Antiquities, and Rietschel Museum of sculptures (both open daily). Schlegel and Weber are buried in the Catholic Cemetery. The monument where Gen. Moreau was mortally wounded is l; M. S.; and the lſoritzburg, a royal hunting-lodge, is 6 M. N. Pillnitz (7. M.) is a handsome royal château. Many charming suburban excursions. The Saxon Switzerland is a beautiful mt. region, 4-500 square M. in area, filled with grotesque sand- Stone peaks and gorges, and traversed by the Elbe. A 2-days' tour leads from Dresden to Pötzscha (# hr. by r!y.); thence (1} hr.) to the Bastei, a hotel-crowned peak, overlooking the whole region and the Elbe valley; thence (5 hrs.) to Schandau, a summer-resort (8 hotels) in the heart of the mts. ; and thence (1 day) by the 248 PRAGUE. Lichtenhain Fall and the Kuhstall and Prebischthor peaks, to Königstein, a lofty and imposing Saxon for- tress. It is 5–7 hrs. (fares, 18 mks, 70 pf., 14 mks, 10 pf., 9 mks. 40 pf.) up the Elbe valley and through the Saxon Switzerland, by Pirna and Königstein, with their fortresses, and Bodenbach (2% hrs, from the Schneeberg, and opposite the handsome castle of Teschen), from Dresden to Prague (Englischer Hof; De Save; Schwarzes Ross; Blauer Stern ; Railway), the ancient capital of Bohe- mia (186,000 inhab.), picturesquely situated on hills near the Moldau River. # of the people are Bohemians, and the Germans are very unpopular. The city was founded by the Duchess Libussa. Here Huss and Jerome preached the Reformation, which took firm root in Bohemia until the Protestant army was crushed, just outside of Prague, in 1620, by the Bavarian forces . of the Roman-Catholic League. The palace of the Bohemian kings is now an Austrian barrack; and the old Hussite, ch., the Teynkirche, containing Tycho Brahe's tomb, is now Roman. In front of the Rath- haus 27 Protestant Bohemian nobles were executed, in 1620; and 11 of Wallenstein’s officers, in 1633. See the Palace of Count Clam Gallas; the Gothic Pulver- thurm tower; the great Jesuit College; the ancient University, founded in 1348; the Bohemian National Museum; the Rossmarkt, a grand street adorned with statues; the Weustadt Ražhhaus, where the Hussite wars began; the Jews' Quarter, with 9, Synagogues and a very ancient cemetery; and the Wysschrad citadel. The Charles Bridge (1357–1507), with 16 arches, towers of defence (on one of which the heads of the Protestant nobles were exposed for 10 years), and 30 statues of saints, crosses the Moldau to the splendid Radetzky Monument (made from Italian cannon) and CARLSBAD. — TEPLITZ. 249 the Jesuit Ch. On the rocky heights above is the mar- vellous Hradschin, where stands the Cathedral (1344 –85), containing the marble and alabaster mausoleum (1589) of the Bohemian kings; the tombs of St. Adal- bert, St. Vitus, St. Wenzel, and several Sclavonic kings, and many rare mosaics and paintings. The great Imperial Palace (open daily, 11–1, 1 fl.) con- tains portraits, ancient halls, and the Council Chamber from which the imperial councillors were thrown, causing the Thirty Years' War. In the Sternberg Palace is a collection of 350–400 paintings (open daily). The vast Czernin Palace is now a barrack. Near it is a Capuchin monastery, with a chapel copied after the Casa Santa at Loretto. Higher up is the wealthy and imposing Abbey of Strahow, with the tombs of St. Norbert and Gen. Pappenheim, a painting by Dürer, a fine library, and splendid views over Prague, the Moldau plain, and the Giant Mts. Below the Belvedere, an imperial villa (1536) with Bohemian historical frescos, are Wallenstein's Palace (1636) and the Nosfitz Palace, containing 400 paintings. Carlsbad (Anger's Hotel; De Russie ; Stadt Han- nover; Paradiès), 6–7 hrs. rly. ride W. of Prague, is visited by over 20,000 people yearly, who find the sul- phur and saline waters beneficial, and the pretty scen- ery of the Tefel glens and pine woods very charming. Teplitz (Stadt London; Post), 3–4 hrs. from Dres- den, and 4–5 hrs. from Prague, is another famous Watering-place, with warm alkaline springs, used for bathing. The scenery is mountainous and picturesque; and ruined castles, hill-top inns, and rich abbeys abound. From Prague to Munich is a ride of 11–12 hrs. (38 mks. 90 pf., 30 mks. 60 pf., 213 mks.). From Prague you can go to Vienna by night-train (217 M.; 8-10 hrs. ; fares, 18 mks. 70 pf, 13 mks. 70 pf.), via 250 VIENNA. Tabor and Gmünd. Berlin to Breslau and Vienna, 18–20 hrs. Dresden to Znaim and Vienna, 14 hrs. Vienna. Hotels. – Imperial; Archduke Charles ; Métropole; Je France ; Frankfurt; Meissl, Munsch; London ; Komser; De "Europe; ſeisses Ross ; Victoria ; Englischer Hof. Restaurants. –Vienna is an expensive town, and a few hints may be useful. There is no obligation to take more than the first breakfast in the hotels where you lodge. Sacher’s, near the Opera, is a capital restaurant; Breying's, in the Graben; Dreher's, close to the Opera; and some of the café-restaurants on the Ring, are good. The Viennese sup from 9 to 11; and the traveller should not fail to take supper in one of the concert-halls, frequented by very good society. The table-d'hôte is not general. Very good dim- ners can be had at the restaurants, at fixed prices. The Austrian wines most in use are the Vöslauer (red) and the Gum- poldskirchener (white). The Hungarian wines are Erlauer, Carlowitzer, and Ofemer (red); and Tokayer and Ruster (white). Carriages (2-horse), 1 fl. for a drive within the city limits. 1% fl. an hr.; 1-horse, 1 fl. 20 kr, an hr. Drivers expect a liberal gratuity. Horse-cars, with smoking- compartments, run around the Ring, the Franz-Joseph- Quai, and across the Aspern Bridge to the Prater (fare, 12 kr.). The rly. termini are all joined by a circular connecting line. The capital of Austria and Hungary, with upwards of 1,000,000 inhab., stands on a mountain-walled plain near the Danube River, and is one of the handsomest, most enterprising, and most interesting of European cities. Vienna was first a Celtic village; then a Roman fort, where Marcus Aurelius died (180); left a deso- lation by the Huns; made a fief of the empire by Charlemagne; occupied by the Duke of Austria in VIENNA. 251 1156; enriched by the Crusades; fortified in 1251; oc- cupied by the Hapsburgs in 1276; besieged by the Turks in 1529 and 1683; occupied by the French in 1805 and 1809; and in the power of Prussia in 1866. The Cathedral of St. Stephen, a vast cruciform limestone ch., at the centre of Vienna, was built 1300– 1510, and restored in 1860. The nave is 354 ft. long and 89 ft, high; and its rich groined roof rests on huge illars, adorned with 100 statues. See the old imperial urial-vault, the tomb of Prince Eugene of Savoy, the stone pulpit (1512), the sarcophagus in the Thekla Choir, the carved choir-stalls, and the stained windows. Great catacombs beneath. On the outside, see Giant’s, Eagle's, and Bishop's Doors, tomb of the Meistersanger, pulpit of Capistranus, and Heathen towers. The tower is 453 ft. high (20 kr.), and the guides point out thence the battle-fields of Wagram and Essling. At the corner of the Graben, the chief business and shop- ping street, is the Stock am Eisen, a pine-tree stump full of nails, driven on account of an ancient custom. In the Graben is the grotesque Trinity Column (1693). The Kohlmarkt is a street of shops, leading to the Im- perial Palace. The Ring is the magnificent boule- vard, 165 ft. wide and 2 M. long, which (with the Quay on the Danube Canal) surrounds the inner town, and occupies the place of the old ramparts and glacis. Beginning at the Aspern Bridge, it passes between the great barracks and the Custom House. The next section, the Stuben-Ring, passes the handsome new Austrian Museum (open daily), with 9 rooms, crowded with choice works in gold, brass, iron, ivory, bronze, tapestry, leather, etc., and paintings and stat- uary. This German S. Kensington is joined by a corridor to the Technical School, near which is a statue of Pallas Athene. The Park-Ring runs between the 252 VIENNA. pretty Stadt Park, where the Strausses may often be heard, and the Horticultural Palace, behind which are the splendid modern palaces of the Duke of Coburg and the Archduke William. The Kolowraf-Ring passes the Casino (the club of the nobility) and the Gothic Academie Gymnasium. From the Schwartzenberg-Platz, with its monument and ducal palaces, the Kärnthmer- Ring passes the Imperial and Grand Hotels, the beauti- ful building of the Musical Union, and the Renaissance Artists' House (exhibitions of paintings). The busy Opern-Ring leads by the magnificent Opera House, the best in Germany, with sumptuous frescos and decorations; and the Palace of the Archduke Albert, in which is the Albertina (open Mon. and Thurs., 9–2), a collection of 40,000 books, 200,000 engravings, and hundreds of drawings by Raphael, Rubens, Dürer, etc. The Burg-Ring is between the huge new buildings of the Imperial Museums and the Imperial Palace. The Franzens-Ring passes the Volksgarten, a popular park, with a temple containing Canova's Theseus. Near it is the superb Votive Ch., commemorating the Em- peror's escape from assassination in 1853, and adorned with twin spires, abounding in statues, and 345 ft. high, and wonderful stained windows. Near by are vast hospitals, unrivalled in Europe; and the great new buildings of the University, the Gothic Rathhaus, the Courts of Justice, the Hofburg Theatre, the Mili- tary Offices, and the classic Parliament House. The, Schotten. Ring contains the Exchange, a new Renais- sance structure (cost $2,500,000), the vast Police Office, and the ruins of the Ring Theatre (where 900 people were burnt in the winter of 1881); and leads to the Danube Canal. - The Hofburg, or Imperial Palace, the home of Austria’s sovereigns for 6 centuries, is a vast and irreg- VIENNA. 253 ular group of buildings, with a labyrinth of courts, gates, and corridors. See the magnificent Knights’ Hall, in the ſeesidenz; the apartments of Maria Theresa; the Riding-School; the Guard-House (military music daily, at 1); the Augustinian Ch., with its monuments; the Hoſſarſen; and the statues of Francis I., Joseph II., the Archduke Charles, Prince Eugene, etc. The Imperial Library (open daily, 9–4) contains 300,000 vols., 20,000 MSS., and 300,000 engravings. The Natural-History and Mineral Cabinets are very inter- esting. The Treasury (open almost every day) is the most interesting in Europe, and contains the entire regalia of Austria, coronation-robes, jewel-studded dec- orations, jewelry, caskets of gold, silver, and crystal, Napoleon I.’s regalia as King of Italy, the sabre of Haroun-al-Raschid, the crown and sword of Charle- magne, the lance which pierced the Saviour's side, etc. Among the jewels is the Florentine diamond, valued at $300,000. The homely Capuchin Ch. contains the Imperial Vault (open daily; gratuity for the poor), where you may see the coffins in which lie Maria Theresa, Marie Louise, Maximilian of Mexico, and other sovereigns. ear by is the Imperial Printing-Office (open Tues. and Fri., 9–12). The University (4,000 students) will soon move to the Franzens-Ring. The suburban Liechtenstein Palace (open daily, 9–6) has a gallery of 1,600 paintings, with many remarkable works of Rubens and Van Dyck. The Schönborn Palace (Mon., Wed., and Fri., 9–3) has a famous collection of pictures; and the Harrach Pal- acé (Wed. and Sat., 10–4) contains 400 interesting paintings. There are many very interesting ancient and modern chs, in Vienna, many palaces, and civic and national institutions, monuments, squares, and bridges, which should be seen. 254 r VIENNA. The Belvedere, an imperial residence, built in 1693– 1724, and once inhabited by Prince Eugene of Savoy, has a beautiful French garden. Its gallery (open daily, except Mon., 10–4; fee, 40 kr, ; good catalogues for sale) contains 1,500 paintings, including a remarkable collection of early Italian and Venetian works, and Dürer's world-renowned “Trinity.” The Lower Belve- dere has the Egyptian Collection, the Collection of An- tiquities, and the famous Ambras Collection; a vast number of military, ecclesiastical, and historical curiosi- ties, flags, weapons, armor, etc. Near by is the vast Arsenal, with the richly frescoed Hall of Fame, and thousands of military relics and trophies of the Turkish, French, Swedish, and Italian wars. Here also are great barracks, gun-factory, and cannon-foundry. The Prater is an immense forest-park, on the E. (laid out in 1766), with cafés, band-music, theatres, and avenues. On May and June afternoons the fashion- able world of Austria may be seen driving in the Haupt- Allee. The Erhibition Buildings of 1873 are still standing here. In the cemetery of Wahring, l; M. N. W. of the city, Beethoven, Schubert, and Grillparzer are buried; Mozart lies at St. Mara, and Gluck at Matzleinsdorf. Schönbrunn (horse-cars or omnibus) is a splendid suburban imperial residence, where Napoleon I. had his headquarters, and where his son died (1832). Beautiful gardens, fountains, statuary, and flowers. On the W. are the villas of Hietzing. Laxenburg #hr. by rly.) is another imperial château (built in 1377), with many interesting halls and monuments. The Kahlenberg, N. of Vienna, overlooks the Danube plain, the Carpathians, and the Styrian Alps. There are many other lovely excursions in the environs. PESTH. 255 SOUTHEASTERN EUROPE. HIS interesting region is easily reached from Vienna, whence steamers descend the Danube to Pesth in 12–13 hrs. (starting at 6.30 A.M.; fares, 9 fl., 6 fl.). Pesth to Vienna, by rly., 7–8 hrs. (fares, 14 fl. 31 kr., 10 fl. 73 kr., 7 fl. 14 kr.). The steamer passes Lobau island, where Napoleon and 150,000 soldiers, with 700 cannon were encamped in 1809; and the castles of Deutsch-Altenburg, Hainburg, and Theben; and in 2+ hrs. reaches Presburg (Grüner Baum ; Schwan), the ancient Hungarian capital, a city of 46,000 inhab., on the foot-hills of the Little Carpathians. In the Cathedral (1090) the Hungarian kings were crowned. Before it is a statue of St. Martin. See the Rathhaus (1288); the beautiful Franciscan Ch. (1293); and the Museums. From the ruins of the imperial palace, on the Schloss- berg, there is a lovely view over the villages and vine- yards. Beautiful excursions in the vicinity. Below Presburg the shores are flat. Komorn is a º fortress (17,000 inhab.); Grau (12,000 inhab.) las a lofty-domed cathedral; Iſissegrad, a venerable fortress, ruined by the Turks; and Waitzen, a vast modern cathedral. Pesth (Grand Hotel Hungaria ; Queen of England; De l'Europe; Erzherzog Stephan ; National; Frohner; Jägerhorn), called also Buda-Pest, has, with Oſen (or Buda), its trans-Danubian suburb, 280,000 inhab. It is the capital of Hungary, and the seat of the Imperial Diet and the Courts. In commerce it is very enter- prising, and has a vast trade in grain. The beautiful modern Renaissance Academy (open, free, Sun., Wed., Fri) contains the great National Gallery (Esterhazy), 256 BELGRADE. — BAZIASCH. with 800 paintings, 50,000 engravings, and 12,000 drawings. The National Museum (9–1) is rich in Roman, Transylvanian, and Hungarian antiquities, and has 200 Italian and T)utch paintings. The magnificent Redoufe Buildings are in Saracenic architecture. See the new palace of the Diet (Landhaus); the promenades along the Danube; the Exchange; the colossal sculp- tured Bulls in front of the market; the new Custom House; the Margarethen-Insel, a pretty island-park (cafés and military music); and various new national buildings. A splendid suspension-bridge runs to Ofen, once a Roman colony, and for 150 years a Turkish town. Cars ascend an inclined plane to the new and costly Royal Palace and the great modern fortress. There are famous baths in Oſen, founded by the Turks, near one of which is a mosque. Return to Vienna by r!y.; or descend the Danube for Belgrade, Bucharest, and Constantinople. Steamers from Pesth to Orsova in 50 hrs. (fares, 24 fl. 10 kr., 16 fl. 10 kr.), — a superb trip, passing Mohács (12,000 inhab.), where the Turks conquered Hungary (1526); Neusafz, a fortified modern town, with 19,000 inhab. ; Peterwardein, where Peter the Hermit preached the First Crusade; Carlowitz, with a Greek cathedral ; and Semlin, where is Hunyadi’s castle. Belgrade (Höffel de Paris), the capital of Servia, has 30,000 inhab., a quaint Oriental town, with narrow streets curving under a fortress-crowned rock. See the Konak of the Prince; the busy street Teracia ; the mosques. The Turks evacuated Belgrade in 1867. 4–5 hrs. below is Baziasch, the end of the rly, from Pesth (fares, 36 fl. 41 kr., 27 fl. 29 kr., 18 fl. 16 kr.). Travellers often come down this way, and take steamer at Baziasch, where the Danube enters the magnificent scenery of the Carpathians. On the r., in this tre- ORSOVA. — BUCHAREST. 257 mendous defile, is the ruined fortress of Golubacz, and ancient Roman forts. At Drencopa the rapids are entered. Servia, is on the r., Hungary on the l Through the Defile of Kasan the river is 500–600 ft. wide, between immense rocky cliffs. Trajan’s Roman road is on the r. bank; and his inscription, commemo- rating the Dacian campaign, is near the end. Orsova (König von Ungarn; Adler) is a Wallachian village, just above the famous Iron Gates, where the Danube plunges through a rocky cañon l; M. long. A rly, runs from Pesth to Orsova (305 M.; fares, 25 fl. 65 kr., 19 fl. 22 kr., 12 ſl. 80 kr.), by Temesvár (32,000 inhab.). From Vienna to Bucharest by this favorite route, 29–30 hrs. (fares, 174 fr. 80 c., 131#. fr. ; the Roumanian currency is like that of France). The through journey from Pesth to Constantinople (3 days; fares, food included, 108; fl., 75; fl.) is by rly. to Bayisch, thence by express-steamer to Rustchuk, rly. to Warna, and steamer down the Black Sea. From Giurgero, opposite Rustchuk, rly. to Bucharest. Vienna to Buchares?. - Fares, 19 fl. 62 kr., 14 fl. 70 kr., 9 fl. 79 kr., to Cracow (Wictoria ; Saare), once the capital of Poland, annexed to Austria in 1846. Here is a fine cathedral, with the tombs of the Polish kings; and a huge mound, 300 ft. high, erected by the people in honor of Kosciuszko. Fares, 16% fl., 12 fl. 18 kr., 6; fl. to Lemberg (Hotel de Russie ; D'Angleterre), the capital of Galicia, with 103,000 inhab. and a large university. , Lemberg to Czernowitz, 12 fl. 64 kr., 9 fl. 47 kr., 4 fl. 92 kr.: Czernowitz to Roman, fares proportional ; Roman to Bucharest, 56 fl. 20 kr., 42} fl., 28 fl. 10 kr. , Bucharest (Hôtel du Boulevard), the capital of the kingdom of Roumania, “the Paris of the East,” has 221,000 inhab., and is a semi-Oriental town, divided 17 258 GRATZ. — TRIESTE. into the Yellow, Red, Green, Black, and Blue districts, or wards. See the Palace, Theatre, War-Office, Uni- versity, the Ch. and Monastery of Radu Vod (1572), the parks, the equestrian statue of Michael III., and some of the chs. Vienna, to Gratz and Trieste. Leaving Vienna at 7 A.M., one reaches Trieste in 14% hrs. (fares, 33 fl. 82 kr., 24 fl. 52 kr.), crossing the Semmering Pass by a wonderfully picturesque rly., with 30 tunnels and viaducts; 25 M. of this }. cost nearly $8,000,000. , Semmering stat. is 2,892 ft. above the sea; and here the rly. passes through the crowning ridge by a tunnel 1 M. long, and descends through the marrow Styrian valleys by Bruck, where the rly. to Venice diverges, and by a score of castles, to Gratz (Elephant ; Goldnes Ross), the capital of Styria (90,000 inhab.), a pretty, well-situated, and growing town, where many retired Austrian officers live. The Castle is 400 ft. above Gratz, and commands a grand view. See the Hall of the Styrian Estates, the Cathedral (1446), the Imperial Mausoleum, and the Johanneum Palace, with its library and picture-gallery. Beyond Gratz the line traverses a picturesque mt. region, full of historical interest. At Steinbrück a branch diverges to Agram, the capital of Croatia. Farther on is Laibach, the capital of Carniola, with a fine castle and cathedral ; and Adelsberg (Grand Hötel Adelsberg; Krone), whence the famous Stalactite Caverns (# M. W.) may be visited. The long zigzag descent to the Adriatic gives many splendid views. Trieste (Hôtel de la Ville ; Delorme; Europa, Danieli), the chief Austrian port (123,000 inhab.), is an Italian city in sentiment and appearance, beautifully LINZ. — SALZBURG. 259 situated on a fortified harbor, and visited by 15,000 vessels yearly. It has a venerable cathedral, a sump- tuous Greek ch., a tall Armenian ch., a far-viewing Capuchin monastery (with castle above), a Ghetto (Jews' quarter), many palaces, and several statues. The Tergesteum is a vast commercial building, head- quarters of the Austrian Lloyds. The Piazzetta di Ricardo commemorates the imprisonment of Richard Coeur de Lion here. Beautiful drives on the St. An- drea Corso, to Miramar, the palace of Maximilian of Mexico; and to Prosecco, of whose wine Virgil spoke. Steamers run from Trieste down the Istrian and : Dalmatian coasts to Zara, Spalatro, Ragusa, Cattaro, Pola, and Fiume; and to the Ionian and Greek ports, and Constantinople; also to Venice. Rly. to Venice. The Upper Danube, Salzburg, etc. This region is full of beauty and picturesqueness. The descent by steamer from Linz to Vienna requires 8-9 hrs. (7 fl., 4 fl. 30 kr.); ascent, 18–20 hrs. The route to N. Germany is by rly. to Linz and Munich. Rly. from Vienna in 117 M. (4%-6 hrs. ; 10 fl. 80 kr., 8 fl. 10 kr.), by Mölk, with its ancient monastery; and Enns, strongly fortified with the ransom paid by England for Richard Coeur de Lion, and 3 M. from the great Augustinian Abbey of St. Florian ; to Linz (Erzherzog Carl, Goſdner Adler), the capital of Upper Austria (30,000 inhab.), a pretty town, with a museum, castle, and Capuchin ch. 78; M. S. W. (fares, 7 fl. 13 kr., 5 fl. 35 kr.; express in 3 hrs.) is Salzburg (Hötel de l’Europe; D'Autriche; Nelböck), 9ne of the most beautiful towns in Germany, with an Italian beauty in its flat-roofed houses, fountains, and marble façades, and environs of far-famed picturesque- 260 THE SALZKAMMERGUT. ness. The Palace, Cathedral, and Government build- ings are in the old quarter. Here is Mozart's birthplace, his house, his statue, and a collection of his MSS.; also the Ch., and Cemetery of St. Peter, and the Benedic- tine Abbey, with the cellar where Haydn used to enjoy his wine. See the Museum, the Franciscan Ch., the imposing Fortress of Hohen-Salzburg, and the high and woody Mönchsberg; 250 stone steps lead to the monas- tery on the Capuziºnerberg. The house of Paracelsus is near the river. The palace of Mirabell, Prince Schwart- zenberg's château of Aigen, and the imperial villa of Helbrunn, are near by. Diligences run 3 times daily (9 fl. 73 kr.) to Wild- bad Gastein (Straubinger; Gruber), whose famous warm springs attract thousands of nervous, gouty, and debilitated folk. Beautiful hill-country, abounding in high waterfalls. The Salzkammergut, or “Austrian Switzerland,” in which the Government has great salt-mines, covers 250 square M. between Salzburg and Styria, and has the finest scenery in Germany, sequestered green valleys, crystal lakes, and far-viewing mts. Diligences run daily from Salzburg (34 M. ; 4 fl.) to the expensive watering-place of Ischl (Kaiserin Elisabeth ; Bauer ; Posé ; Victoria), near the centre of this Alpine region, with splendid villas of the Emperor and many nobles. Mud baths and whey baths here. Grand excursions in every direction. From Vienna to Ischl, leave Salzburg line at Lambach, and go by branch rly, to Gmunden (passing near the Traun Falls), a quiet little summer- resort on the Traun See, the most beautiful of German lakes. Thence 9 M. by steamer, amid grand lake and mt. scenery, to Langbath (diligence to Ischl, 12 M.). Between Salzburg and Munich (95. M.; 4–5 hrs. ; 12 mks., 8 mks. 15 kr., 53 mks.) the rly. traverses a pic- MUNich. 261 turesque 'mt. region, passing Rosenheim (branch to Inns- bruck) and the Chiemsee, a pretty lake, 12 × 3 M. in area, with islands and convents, a resort of artists. Munich and the Tyrol. Munich (Four-Seasons Hofel ; Bellevue: Englischer- hof'; Bavarian ; Rheinischerhof'; Mawāmilian ; Vic- toria), the capital of Bavaria (170,000 inhab.), is on the Isar river, on a broad, lofty, and barren plain. The climate is variable, and almost severe. Living is cheap, and furnished rooms may be had reasonably for a stay of 2–4 weeks. The Royal Palace, an imitation of the Pitti Palace, contains magnificent frescos from the Odyssey and the Niebelungenlied, and from the lives of Charlemagne, Barbarossa, and the Hapsburgs; and, in the Throne-Room, Schwanthaler's grand statues of the 12 Wittelsbach princes. In the adjacent Old- Residence (1600–16) is the sumptuous Royal Chapel (open Tues., 9.30–11); also the Treasury (Tues. and Fri., 9–11), with the Bavarian regalia, the great blue diamond, and the crowns of Bohemia (captured in 1620), and of the Emperor Henry II. and the Empress Cuni- gunda (1010). The Festsaalban, with noble portico and statues, fronts on the Hoſºyarten, around which run richly frescoed Arcades, containing the Ethnographical Museum and the Art Union. The Hof. Theatre, adorned With many fine statues, is the largest in Germany. The Ludwigs-Strasse is a noble street of palaces, # M. long, running from the Hall of Generals (an open loggia, with statues) to the Gate of Victory, a triumphal arch erected by Uewis I. to the Bavarian army, with Statues and reliefs, and surmounted by a bronze Bavaria, in a chariot drawn by lions. On and near this street are the Odeon concert-hall; the Theatine Ch., with the …+&-t-…,xº~~~~~~~~ **-** -- MUNICH. 262 royal tombs ; the equestrian statue of Lewis I. ; the War Office; the Library (10–12 daily), — a Florentime building with fine statues and an imposing stairway, 800,000 vols., 25,000 MSS., and many literary curios- ities, – the Codex Aureus, Alaric's breviary, the prayer- books of Dürer and Emperor Lewis, the oldest Niebelungenlied MS., etc.; the Ludwigskirche, a splendid ch. in Italian style, with Cornelius’s Last Judgment and other frescos; and a great square, with statues, bounded by the Priests' Seminary, the Max- Joseph School, and the University (1,400 students). From the Maa’-Joseph Platz (on which are the Theatre, Royal Palace, Post-Office, and Max-Joseph’s Statue) the handsome, Maximilian-Strasse, # M. long, runs to the Isar, by the Four-Seasons Hotel, the Government buildings, a long square with statues (one of the Massachusetts Count Rumford), and the interest- ing National Museum, to the handsome Maximilia- neum civil-service school, adorned with frescos and statuary. The huge brick Cathedral. (1468–88) is 118 ft. high inside, and has towers 346 ft. high, and 30 windows 72 ft. high, several monuments, and a captured Turkish flag. St. Michael’s Ch. has a noble dome, and Thorwaldsen’s monument to Eugene Beauharnais, vice- roy of Italy. The Allerheiligenkirche is a magnificent Byzantine ch., rich in colored marbles and frescos on gold ground. St. Boniface, an imitation of a 5th- century basilica, is a very beautiful 4-aisled ch., with round arches supported by 66 monolithic columns of gray Tyrolese marble, gilded roof-timbers, royal tombs, and many frescos by Hess. The statue of Maximilian I. was designed by Thorwaldsen, and made of captured Turkish cannon. Near it is the mediaeval Wittelsbach Palace. — The Academy of Art, in the old Jesuits’ College, has vast collections of fossils, minerals, coins, MUNICH, 263 casts, etc. See also the statues of Schiller, Gluck, Orlando di Lasso, and Max Emanuel; the Marian Column (1638); the Obelisk, 100 ft. high, of captured gun-metal, to 30,000 Bavarians who died in the Russian war; the ancient and imposing Isar and Neuhäuser Gates; the great bronze-foundry, with collection of models (daily, 1–6); the Museum of Schwanthaler’s works; the great beer-gardens (especially the Hof- Brewery); and the splendid arcaded cemetery. In the N. W. quarter, beyond the Botanical Gardens and the Glass Palace, St. Boniface, and the great infantry barracks, are the admirable art-collections. The Old Pinakothek (open daily, except Sat., 9–3; catalogue, 2% mks.) is a vast Renaissance structure, adorned with 24 statues of famous artists, and with a long arcade frescoed by Cornelius with scenes from the history of mediaeval art. The Museum contains 1,400 paintings, including fine works of Raphael, Correggio, Titian, Holbein, Dürer, and Rubens. On the ground floor, 300,000 engravings, 9,000 drawings, and cabinets of Greek and Etruscan vases (catalogue, 1 mk.). The New Pinakothek (open free Sun., Tues., Thurs, and * Sat., 10–12 and 2–4), frescoed outside from Kaulbach’s designs, contains 400 modern paintings (mostly of the Munich school) by Kaulbach, Overbeck, etc. The Glyptothek (open Mon. and Fri., 8–12, 2–4; Wed., 8-12) is a handsome Ionic building, with 12 richly frescoed vaulted halls, enshrining Egyptian, Greek, Latin, and modern sculptures, and choice works of Canova, Thorwaldsen, Dannecker, etc. Opposite is the # Corinthian Echibition Building, where new Munich pictures are exhibited and sold every summer; and N. W. is the famous Stained-Glass Institution. The Fropylaea Gate is a splendid copy of the gateway to the Acropolis at Athens, built in 1862, and adorned with sculptures. ~ 264 OBER-AMMERGAU. — INNSBRUCK. The English Garden, laid out by Count Rumford, begins at the Royal Palace, and runs N. 4 M. You can drive through it to the Observatory, l; M. 13 M. outside the Carlsthor is the Hall of Fame, a l)oric colonnade containing busts of 76 national celebrities. Here stands the bronze Statue of Bavaria, 56 ft. high. Ascend into its head, whence there is a fine view. The royal château and deer-park Nymphenburg and the Porcelain factory are 3 M.W. of Munich. The Lake of Starnberg (15 M.; rºy. in 1 hr.) 15 × 3; M. in area, has fine mt. views, villas of wealthy Munichers, and several châteaux. Persons spending a day in Munich can obtain a good mid- day lunch at Schleich's, 8 Brienner-Strasse. Operas at Hof and National Theatres (prices low), Sun., Mon., Thurs., and Fri., except in July (open, as usual in Germany, at 6.30 or 7). Good classical music on Sun. at St. Michael’s, the Court ch. To reach Ober-Ammergau take train to Murnau, 11; M., whence carriage, passing the ancient abbey of Ełłal and up the Ammerthal. This is a pleasant summer-journey among Bavarian mts. and lakes, and into the country of the Passion Play. See local guides. Through the Tyrol to Italy. — From Munich to Verona, 286 M. (20–24 hrs. ; fares, 24 mk. 92 pf., 18 mk., ll mk. 91 pf. ; to Innsbruck, 11 mk. 60 pſ, 8 mk. 5 pf., 53 mk.). The rly. leads by Rosenheim to Kufstein (Post Hotel), an ancient fortress command- ing the Tyrolese frontier; and up the beautiful valley of the Inn; by busy and picturesque old Schwaz, among rich iron and copper mines; and Hall, whose ch. has a picture by Dürer. Innsbruck (Hötel de l’Europe; Goldene Sonne ; Stern), the capital of the Tyrol (14,000 inhab.), is beautifully situated in the midst of mts., 6–8,000 ft. | - - - - ----- THE TYROL. 265T high, whose peaks seem to overhang its streets. On the wooden bridge which gives name to the town, Höfer's Tyrolese riflemen thrice defeated Napoleon's Bavarians in the War of Independence (1809). Höfer, the innkeeper who led the Tyrol in arms against the French for 14 years, and was shot by Napoleon at Mantua, now lies in the Silver Chapel of Innsbruck’s Franciscan Ch., under a splendid monument. In the same ch. is the monument (1513–83) of the Emperor Maximilian I., a bronze statue kneeling on a sarcopha- gus, and surrounded by 28 royal bronze statues and 24 exquisite historical reliefs, in marble (which the sac- ristan uncovers and explains). Queen Christina of Sweden abjured Protestantism in this ch. in 1654. See also the Palace, built by Maria Theresa; the Golden Roof; the University; the Triumphal Arch; the in- teresting museum and picture-gallery; the ancient Capuchin Monastery; the wealthy Abbey of Witten ; and the fine old castle of Ambras (13th century). The rly. ascends the Lill valley, and crosses the Brenner Pass, 4,588 ft. high, the water-shed between the Adriatic and Black Seas. At the fortress of Franzensfeste trains stop for meals. From Sterzing the glaciers of the Stubbaythal are visible. Then comes semi-Italian Briaen, an ancient ecclesiastical capital, with many chs. and cloisters; Bozen (Hötel Victoria ; Kaiserkrone), frequented by invalids, and in one of the finest Tyrolese glens, with grand excursions to Meran, etc.; mountain-girdled Trent (Europa), once an Etrus- can town, known to Strabo and Ptolemy, and now rich in old towers, ruined castles, marble palaces, a grand 13th-century cathedral, and the Ch. of Sta. Maria Maggiore, where the celebrated Council of Trent held its sessions, 1545–63; and Roveredo, on the Adige. Beyond, the line runs through a region familiar to Dante, entering Italy beyond Alā. *jöö ºut M. SrtſTTGART.T Switzerland may be reached directly from Munich, by rly. to Lindau, whence boat across Lake Constance to Romanshorn, and rly, to Zurich (fares, to Lindau, 17 mks. 70 pf., ll: mks., 7 mks. 55 pf.; to Zurich, 313 mks., 22 mks. 45 pf.). We rec- ommend the tourist, however, to go on from Munich to Augs- burg and Stuttgart, with a détour to Nuremberg, Baireuth, etc.; and from Nuremberg or Würzburg to Heidelberg. Augsburg, Stuttgart, Nuremberg, Heidelberg. Rly. in 13–2 hrs. from Munich to Augsburg (Bai- erischerhof; Drei Mohren, a very ancient hotel, in which Charles W. was entertained — see visitors’ books), once a free imperial town of vast wealth, and the centre of trade between Germany and the Levant, now has 61,000 inhab. There remain many picturesque old houses, frescoed outside; the ancient Palace in which the Augsburg Confession was given; the venerable chs. of St. Anna and St. Ulrich ; the Rathhaus (1616–20), with its Golden Hall; the rambling Gothic Cathedral (995), with handsome cloisters; and the frescoed Fug- gerhaus, the home of the richest merchants of 16th- century Europe. See also the fountains, the Arsenal, the Museum, and the gallery of Suabian pictures. i It is 2–3 hrs. (6 fl. 80 kr., 4 fl. 55 kr., 2 fl. 90 kr.) to Ulm (Höffel de l’Europe; Russischerhof'), a strong fortress of Würtemberg (30,000 inhab.), on the Danube. The vast and splendid Gothic Cathedral (1377) has an immense organ, finely carved oaken stalls, and a nave 137 ft. high. Beautiful view of the Alps and the Sentis from the tower. Rly. to Lake Constance in 4–5 hrs. Rly. from Ulm across Würtemberg (in 23–4 hrs.) to Stuttgart (Marquardt; Royal ; Sillier), the modern capital of Würtemberg (107,000 inhab.), beautifully CANNSTADT. — NUREMBERG. 267 situated among the hills and vineyards, and the home of a large Anglo-American colony. The Königsbau (Royal Palace) has an Ionic colonnade and Corinthian porticos. Opposite, across the Schloss-Platz, is the. new Palace (1746–1807), containing very fine sculp- tures (open daily, 1–3). Near by are the Theatre and . the Old Palace (1553–70); also the Stiftskirche (1436–95), with statues of 11 Counts of Würtemberg; Thorwaldsen’s statue of Schiller; and various na- tional buildings. The Royal Library (open Sat. and Wed.) contains 350,000 vols. and 3,800 MSS. ; and the Museum of Art (open daily) has a good collection of pictures and statuary. The parallel Königs-Strasse and Neckar-Strasse are the chief streets. There are several small but interesting museums, and very good schools. Charming views from the Hasenberg, the Uhlandshöhe, and the Schillershöhe. The Anlagen park, decorated with statues, extends over 2 M., to Cannstadt (Hotel Hermann; Bellevue ; Mertz), on the Neckar, with warm saline and cha- lybeate springs, much frequented by invalids. See the Royal Villa, the Rosenstein, and other villas on the heights; also the Kursaal and the Wilhelma. The grave of Freiligrath is here. There are several other notable excursions to be made from Stuttgart. From Augsburg (fares, 12 mks. 60 pf.,9mks., 5% mks.), or from Stuttgart, via Crailsheim and Ansbach (19 mks. 70 kr., 13 mks. 85 kr.), go to Nuremberg (Bayerischerhof'; Strauss ; Goldener Adler; Rother Hahn), a delightful old town (98,000 inhab.), famous for its quaint mediaeval houses, oriel Windows, and toy-factories, and the centre of trade be- tween N. and S. Germany. At one time there flour- ished here Veit Stoss, Wischer, and Kraft, the carvers; the teacher and disciples of Albert Dürer, and the great 268 NUREMBERG. master himself; and Hans Sachs, the cobbler-poet. The two latter are buried in St. John’s Cemetery; their houses are religiously kept; Rauch's statue of Dürer . stands in the Milk Market, and Hans Sachs’s monu- ment is in the Spital-Platz. The lofty wall which encircles Nuremberg has 75 towers of masonry, the 4 largest of which were built by Dürer. Take a walk around these walls, and also note the singular old bridges over the Pegnitz. Peter Wischer is buried at St. Rochus, and his house is preserved. The finest ch. is St. Lawrence, a red-sandstone structure (1287–1477), with a splendid W. portal and rose-window, Kraft’s wonderful ciborium, 66 ft. high, and Veit Stoss's wood- carvings. See fountains, outside; and the ancient bronze fountain-figure of the Little Goose Man, in the Goose-Market. The Frauenkirche has a splendid façade, and rich old glass and works of art inside. Opposite is a tall Gothic column (1385–96), surrounded with statues of heroes. St. Sebaldus, a 13th-century Gothic basilica, contains rare old paintings, and the famous Shrine of St. Sebaldus, “the most exquisite gem of German art,” whose multitude of statues and carvings were made by Vischer and his sons (1506–19). Op- posite is St. Maurice, now a gallery containing many old German paintings. St. Egidius (1140) has an altar-piece by Van Dyck. The Germanic Museum, in an old Carthusian convent (beautiful cloisters), has a fresco by Kaulbach, and many mediaeval relics and pictures. In the old Dominican convent is the Maxi- milian collection of mediaeval antiquities; also, the Town Library (open Tues., Thurs., Sat.), with 40,000 vols. and 800 MSS. The Burg is a Gothic castle on a rock to the N., built in 1024, and enlarged by Bar- barossa in 1158, and rich in ponderous towers, quaint chapels, antique halls, priceless paintings, and views RATISBON. — WALHALLA. — KELHEIM. 269 over town and country. The Rathhaus contains 30,000 engravings, and many pictures. See also the new law- courts, the war monument, and the bronze-foundry. 62 M. (25 hrs.) from Nuremberg (fares, 9} mks., 6 mks. 55 pf.), on the Danube, is Ratisbon (Goldenes Kreuz ; Weisser Hahn), the German Regensbury, a very ancient free town, where the Imperial Diet was held from 1663 to 1808, and now Bavarian. There are many mediaeval houses, with armorial bearings still upon them, and with towers of defence (especially in Ambas- sadors’-St.). The Cathedral (1275) has a rich façade and porch, lofty towers, and a very symmetrical nave, 129 ft. high ; also, fine monuments by Canova and Vischer, an altar of silver, and cloisters. The 12th- century Benedictine Ch. of St. James has strange old sculptures; and the Benedictine Monastery of St. Em- meran, founded in 652, and enriched by Charlemagne, has for 70 years been the palace of the Princes of Thurn and Taxis. The 14th-century Rathhaus contains many implements of torture. - 7–8 M. distant (omnibus in 13 hr.), on a hill 313 ft. over the Danube, is the Walhalla, built 1830–42 (at a cost of $3,400,000) by King Lewis as a Temple of Fame. It resembles the Athenian Parthenon, and is of huge granite blocks, surrounded with 52 Doric columns, and adorned in the pediments with Schwan- thaler's sculptures of the Battles of Leipsic and Armin- ius. The roof is of iron and copper. The interior hall, 173 × 49 ft., and 55 ft. high, decorated with friezes, 6 Victory statues by Rauch, and 100 busts of illustrious Germans. View of Bavarian Forest and Alps. Kelheim, up the Danube, has the huge circular Hall of Liberation, built by King Lewis, 1842–63, to commemorate the Battle of Leipsic. It is lined with marble, and contains 34 Victory statues, of Carrara marble; while outside are 18 colossal statues. 270 BAMBERG. — BAIREUTH. — HEIDELBERG. 9 * to Heidelberg, 21 mks. 5 pf., 14 mks. witzburg (40,000 inhab.) has a vast Royal Palace, a Cathedral (1189–1240), the Neumünster Ch. (with tomb of Walther von der Vogelweid), the handsome Mariencapelle, and a university. Rly. (7 mks. 60 kr., 5 mks. 5 kr., 3 mks. 20 kr.) to Baireuth, by Bamberg (24,000 inhab.), a hill-town, with a splen- did 12th-century Romanesque Cathedral, rich in monu- ments and relics. The Lyceum contains 2,600 MSS. In the Palace, Napoleon I. declared war against Prussia The rly. runs around the Franconian Switzerland to Baireuth (Reichsadler; Sonne ; Anker), the seat of Wagner's great theatre, and of an enormous old opera-house. Jean Paul Richter's house, statue, and tomb are here. See the Old and New Palaces, the war monument of 1870–71, and the ducal châteaux of the Eremitage and the Fantaisie (each 3 M. out). Ex- cursions into the Fichtelgebirge. From Würzburg it is 5–7 hrs. (fares, 12 mks. 80 pf., 8} mks., 5 mks. 45 pf.) to Heidelberg (Hotel de l’Europe; Grand; Schrieder; Victoria, all near the stat. In the town, Prinz Carl, Adler; Bayerischer), renowned for its history, its learned University, and its beautiful situation, where the mountainous Neckar valley enters the great Rhine : plain. The University (founded 1386) has valuable museums, and a library of 300,000 vols. The buildings are homely. The Castle, 330 ft. above the Neckar, was founded in 1294, and added to by subsequent electors and kings. In 1689 the French Gen. Mélac, forced to retreat thence, burned and blew up the castle; and the destruction was completed by lightning in 1764. It is the grandest ruin in Germany. See the splendid Renaissance Offo-Heinrichs building (1556); the Frie- SPIRES.. — WORMS. 271 drichs building (1601), rich in statues, and containing the great Tun (40,000 gallons); and other palaces, towers, and gardens. From the Königsstuhl, 905 ft. above the castle (1 hr. by road), grand view of the Rhine and Neckar valleys, the Black Forest, Taunus, and Odenwald, and out to Strasbourg Cathedral. Spires, Worms, Baden, Strasbourg. It is a short ride, down the Neckar valley, to Mannheim (Hôtel Palatinat; König von Portugal), a town of 40,000 inhab., on the Rhine, very regularly laid out, and adorned with a great palace and picture- gallery and several statues. Fine rly.-bridge across the Rhine, to Ludwigshaven. 1 hr. by rly. to the S. is Spires (Rheinischer Hof; Wittelsbacher Hof), the capital of the Bavarian Palatinate (15,000 inhab.). The vast and imposing Romanesque Cathedral (open 9–11, 2–6) was founded in 1030, and in 1146 St. Bernhard preached the Crusade in it. 9 German em- perors and 3 empresses were buried here. In 1794 it was desecrated, and was used as a magazine until 1822. It is 441 ft. long, and 105 ft. high in the nave, with towers 284 ft. high. See the new façade and Em- perors' Hall; the magnificent modern frescos; and the imperial statues by Schwanthaler. Worms (Alter Kaiser; Bellevue), # hr. N. of Ludwigshaven, successively capital of Burgundian and Tranconian kings, and of Charlemagne, is now a de- cadent Hessian town. The splendid Romanesque Ca- thedral (1110) has 4 towers and 2 domes, and a stately interior, 357 ft. long. On the square occurred events sung of in the Niebelungenlied; and on one side is the Renaissance Heil'sche Haus, on the site of the palace where Luther defended his doctrines before Charles W. 272 DARMSTADT. — CARLSRUHE. — BADEN. and the Diet of Worms (1521). Luther's Monument (built 1859–68) consists of his colossal statue, around and below which are statues of 6 Reformers, 2 Protes- tant princes, and 3 German cities. It is a grand work. Darmstadt (Traube; Darmstadter Hof), the hand- some capital of Hesse (40,000 inhab.), has in its Palace a library of 450,000 vols., and a noble gallery of 700 paintings (open daily). In the palace on Anna-Strasse is the celebrated Meyer Madonna, by Holbein (1 mk.). From Heidelberg, 2 hrs. (5 mks. 5 pf., 3 mks. 60 pf.) to Carlsruhe (Germania ; Erbprinz), the capital of Baden (43,000 inhab.), with handsome modern build- ings, squares, and monuments. The streets radiate like fan-sticks from the handsome Palace and park. The Romanesque Hall of Art contains 6–700 pictures, and other collections. From handsome rly. stat. 1 hr. (3 mks. 40 pf., 2 mks. 35 pf.; change cars at Oos) to Baden-Baden (Victoria ; Badischer; Englischer; De l'Europe ; Stephanienbad; Hollande ; Darmstadt; St. Petersburg), in a delightful glen amid the foot-hills of the Black Forest. , 40,000 foreigners come here yearly, to indulge in fashionable lounging, to enjoy the mild climate and beautiful environs, and to drink the min- eral waters. Vast and magnificent Trink-Halle, Con- versation-House, and Bath-House. The lofty New Castle (1 mk.), built 1479–1519, is the summer home of the Grand Duke. Band music in the town several times daily. Good theatre. Prices at Baden generally high. Excursions, thence into the Black Forest. Rly. S. to Kehl, where the Rhine is crossed to Strasbourg (Maison Rouge; Hôtel de la Pille de Paris ; De l'Europe; D'Angleferre), the capital of Al- sace-Lorraine (100,000 inhab.), terribly bombarded in the war of 1870–71. The grand Cathedral, built 1015– 1439, has a magnificent façade by Erwin von Steinbach STRASBOURG. — FREIBURG. 273 (1318), and a spire 465 ft. high (ascent, 13 mk.), whence an extensive view is gained, even to the Jura Mts. The interior, 323 ft. long and 99 ft. high, with its 15th-century stained windows, slender and richly carved pillars, and Erwin's tomb and pillar, is impres- sive. The celebrated Astronomical Clock is in the S. transept. The bombardment of 1870, which destroyed the Library, Theatre, Picture Gallery, etc., spared the Cathedral. The new University, now specially favored by Germany, is at the Fischer Gate. The new Library already has 470,000 vols. In St. Thomas Ch. (10 pf.) is a vast marble monument to Marshal Saxe, which it took 20 years to make. In the Place Gutenberg is a statue of Gutenberg. The New Temple has been rebuilt magnificently. Many statues on the squares. Stras- bourg is an important strategic point, and vast fortifica- tions have recently been erected by the Germans. From Strasbourg go to Basle (fares, 11% mks., 7 mks. 68 pf., 4 mks, 90 pf.), along the Black Forest. Freiburg (Zähringer; Wictoria; Trescher) is a pretty forest-town of 26,000 inhab., and the capital of the Breisgau. It has suffered much in many wars. The Cathedral is a symmetrical red-sandstone Gothic ch. (1122–1236), with a remarkable tower, 397 ft. high; a rich portal, with statuary; and an interior 342 ft. long and 102 ft. high, lighted from five stained win- dows, and containing many old monuments, paintings, etc. (best time to visit, 10.30–12; fee at choir, 50 pf.; to tower, 60 pf). The Kaufhaus, on the S., is a hand- some 15th-century building. The new Victory Monu- ment chiefly honors Gen. von Werder. See the quaint fountains, the streams of pure water in the streets, and the pretty pebble pavements. Climb the Schlossberg. Grand view over Black Forest, Vosges, and Rhineland. From Freiburg to Basle, 2 hrs.; 5% mks., 4 mks. 18 274 - BASLE. SWITZ E R L.A. N. D. OR direct routes from Paris, see page 199. Swiss money is in francs, like French. The Swiss season is Aug. in the high Alps, July 15 to Sept. 15 elsewhere. Return and excursion tickets on all Swiss rlys. Pensions (large summer boarding-houses) at all chief resorts, $80-$2.00 a day. Basle, Zurich, Lake Constance. Basle (Three Kings Hotel; Euler; Schweizerhof'; Faucon ; Sauvage ; Cicogne ; Croir : , Michel), , a wealthy and pretty town of 45,000 inhab., on the Rhine, has rlys. in every direction. There are many handsome streets, and pleasant parks and promenades. The Cathedral, built by Henry II. in 1010–19, and re- stored after destructions by fire and earthquake, is an imposing Gothic building of red sandstone, now Protes- tant (open Tues. and Fri., 2–4, fr.). Ancient statuar on façades; 2 lofty towers, built in 1500. In the rich and beautiful interior, see the roodloft (1381); stained windows; Chapel of St. Nicholas; font (1465); pul- pit (1424); tombs of Erasmus and of Empress Anna; sculptures on N. portal and around choir. Very fine cloisters (1362–1487), leading to the Pfalz terrace, over the Rhine and viewing the Black Forest. In the Council Hall (daily; small fee) are fragments of the 15th-century fresco of The Dance of Death. The Museum (; fr. ; catalogue, , fr.) has many historic and scientific curiosities, and the largest Swiss icture-gallery, including many choice Holbeins (The assion, etc.) and works of modern Germans. Also the University Library (90,000 vols.) and a great hall. The Mission House, for education of missionaries, is SCHAFFHAUSEN. 275 one of the powerful local theological influences, and has an interesting museum (open daily). See the Town Hall (1508); the Spahlen Gate (1400); the quaint fountains; and the chs. Basle to Lucerne, direct, 55#. M.; fares, 9 fr. 40 c., 6 fr. 60 c., 4 fr. 40 c. It is better, however, to go via the Falls of the Rhine and Lake Constance, by rly, up the Rhine. From Basle it is 59 M. (9% fr., 6 fr. 30 c., 4 fr. 5 c.) to Schaffhausen (Krone; Muller; Post ; Du Rhin), a picturesque town, with quaint old frescoed houses; a wall with 6 gates, and old towers; , a massive castle (1564); and a Romanesque Cathedral (1104), with fine cloisters, and a great bell inscribed Vivos poco, mortuos plango, fulgura frango. The Falls of the Rhine may be visited hence (omnibus, 1 fr., or rly.). They are near Neuhausen stat. (Sehweizerhof, with view of Alps and Falls; Bellevue). Here the Rhine, 380–400 ft. wide, descends 100 ft., in rapids, whirlpools, and 3 falls, over limestone ledges. It is the largest fall in Europe, and should be seen by moonlight, or under its morning and late-afternoon rainbows. You may ascend the rock which divides the falls (3 fr.); or view them from Laufen castle (1.fr.), the best point, where the Fischetz platform should be visited. From Schaffhausen go by rly., or by steamboat (4 S.; 3 fr., 1 fr. 95 c.) up the Rhine, to. Constance (Adler; Hecht), a decadent town of 3,000 inhab. The Cathedral (1048) has notable tained glass, bas-reliefs, cloisters, choir-stalls, and the Stone on which John Huss stood when sentenced. W. f the Victory monument, in the market-place, is the Spot where Huss and Jerome of Prague were burned }live (1415–16). In the richly frescoed Kaufhaus (# fr.) the Council of Constance met (1414–18). See 276 züRICH. Town Hall (1503), St. Stephen's Ch., and Kreutz- lingen Abbey. Rly. 34; M. (1% hrs.; 6 fr., 4 fr. 20 c., 3 fr.) to Zürich (Höfel Baur au Lac ; Bellevue ; St. Go- thard ; D’Angleterre ; Baur en Ville), on the swift green river Limmat, at the foot of the beautiful Lake Zürich. Remarkable view (especially by moonlight) from bridge, of villages, villas, embowered spires, and distant Alps. Zürich is famous for learned schools, beautiful environs, and conclaves of political exiles. See the Romanesque Cathedral (12th century), with fine cloisters and statues of Charlemagne; Town Hall and Museum (1649), near the bridge; Höhe Promenade, with fine view; Library, with rare MSS. ; Polytech- mic School, splendid view from terrace; Art Building ; St. Augustine's Ch. , St. Peter's Ch., where Lavater reached 23 years; Arsenal, with Tell’s bow, Zwing- ius's battle-axe, etc.; and splendid rly. stat. Zürich to Lindau and Germany. — Rly. to Romans- horn (50%. M.; 8% fr., 6 fr. 15 c., 4 fr. 40 c.), whence steamer to Friedrichshafen (1 hr.; 1 mk. 20 pf., 80 pf.) and Lindau (l; hrs. ; 23 mks., 1% mk.); or rly. by St. Gallen to Rorschach (5% hrs. ; 10 fr. 65 c., 7% fr., 5 fr. 35 c.), whence steamer to Lindau (1% hrs. ; 1 mk. 65 pf.; 1 mk. 10 pf). Lake Constance (in German the Boden-See, in Latin Lacus ...Brigantinus) is very pretty in summer, but has not the beauty of the other Swiss lakes. It is 42 × 8 M. in area, and 156; M. around ; very deep; with green water, abounding in trout; flat, or undu- lating shores; and distant views of the Alps of Vorarl- berg and Appenzell. In 4 centuries it has frozen over but 15 times. It lies between Baden, Austria, Bavaria, Würtemberg, and Switzerland. There is an immense traffic between the lake-ports. THE SPLÜGEN PASS. 277 The Uetliberg, 2,864 ft. high, 6 M. S. W. of Zü- rich, is ascended by a rly. like that on Mt. Washington (2 fr. ; return-tickets, 3 fr.), and on top is the }; Furst. The view includes Zürich and its lake, the Limmat Valley, the Alps from the Sentis to the Jung- frau, the Righi, Pilatus, the Juras, Vosges, and Black- Forest peaks. Magnificent views from road up. The Splügen Pass. Zürich (or Rohrschach) is a good point from which to visit the Splügen Pass. Very pleasant trip to its summit, although it is not the best route into Italy. Go by steamer (be careful to start from the right pier; 2–2; hrs. ; fares, 2 fr. 20 c., 1 fr. 40 c.) up the lovely Lake of Zürich, 25% X 2; M. in area, with transpar- ent bluish-green water reflecting the chain of happy shore-villages and the snowy Alps of Schwyz and Gla- rus, to Rapperschwyl (Hötel du Lac ; Schwan), which has a 12th-century ch., Capuchin monastery, deer-park, and ancient castle, containing the Polish Național Mu- seum. Rly. from Zürich to Rapperschwyl, 44; M.; fares, 4 fr. 70 c., 2 fr. 20 c.; to Coire, 4–5 hrs. ; fares, 13 fr. 70 c., 8 fr. 90 c. The rly, follows Lake Zürich from Rapperschwyl to Schmerikon ; ascends the Linth valley; runs along the shore of the magnificent Lake of Wallenstadt for 12 M.; enters upper Rhine val- ley; and runs S., through grand scenery, to Ragatz (Zuellenhof and Ragatz, both united with the Casino; Schweizerhof; Tamima ; Freieck), a favorite Summer-resort at the mouth of the wonderful Tamina gorge, 2% M. up which are the hot saline baths of Pfäffers, amid very impressive rocky scenery, and cliffs 6–700 ft. high, which have “the grave and sombre aspect of an- cient monasteries.” These waters have been prized for 278 COIRE. 500 years. They are conducted to the baths at Ragatz. The philosopher Schelling is buried at Ragatz. The rly. ascends the Rhine valley, by the 4th-century Roman tower of Mayen/eld, and many pretty villages, vineyards, and castles, to - Coire (Steinbock; Lukmainer; Stern ; Sonne), the capital of the Grisons (8,000 inhab.), surrounded with picturesque walls and Roman towers, and nestling un- der the Mittenberg. The Cathedral (8th century) con- tains pictures by Dürer and Holbein, and rare Roman and mediaeval antiquities. The Episcopal Palace is very ancient (bishopric founded in 4th century). Grand views from the Rosenhügel, and other hills. - The Splügen Passis reached thrice daily by diligences (7 hrs. ; 31#. M.; 11 fr. 85 c.; coupé, lºſ fr. 95 c.) from Coire to Splügen, by the Romansch hamlet of Ems and the château of Reichenau, to (11 M.) Thusis (Wia Mala ; Adler), a centre of grand excursions. Many tourists ride hither, and then walk up through the Via Mala, a tremendous gorge between calcareous cliffs 1,600 ft. high, with the Rhine roaring heavily below, Thousands of lives have been lost by avalanches and land-slips in this “Bad Way.” The safe new road, with its tunnels and bridges, was built in 1822. A stone dropped from Second Bridge (247 ft. high ; here the scenery is grandest) makes a noise like a cannon. The verdant farms of the Walley of Schams open out above ; and the road passes Zillis, with its venerable ch. ; Andeer, an old Romansch village; traverses the wild Roffna Ravine, 3 M. long, by the Rhine cascades; comes into view of the Einshorn and Pizzo Uccello peaks; and reaches Splügen (Hötel Bodenhaus), where the diligences all stop for dinner. 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Jºº ...tº fº hºw tº § ~s- BERNARDINO PASS. 279 It is about 7 M. from Splügen to the top of the pass, 6,945 ft. high, the Italian frontier-line, with Suretta- hörner (9,925 º on one side, and Schneehorn (10,748 ft.; Milan and Suabia are visible from it) on the other. The road descends by leagues of zigzags and galleries, ravines and cascades, to the vineyards and chestnut fields of Chiavenna (Conradi), with its ruined castle and fine old ch. ; and thence down a mt.-girdled valley by Riva to Colico, on Lake. Como. - By the Bernardino Pass, diligences run daily to Bellinzona, in 84 hrs. (45; M. ; 14 fr. 90 c.; coupé, 19 fr. 45 c.). The road ascends the desolate Rheinwald valley 8–9 M. to the top of the pass (6,768 ft. high), surrounded by Alps and glaciers; and thence descends, by long zigzags, to San Bernardino, Mesocco, Cama, Roveredo, and other charming Italian-Swiss villages, amid very grand scenery. irº Bellinzona, dili- gences to Lugano (4 hrs. ; 4 fr. 95 c. ;... coupé, 7 fr. 65 c.), whence rly. to Lake Como and Milan. It is easy to cross from Colico to Bellinzona. To return North, go from Bellinzona to Biasca, and thence across the St. Gothard Pass to Andermatt. Tourists who go only to the top of the Splügen can return to Reichenau, and cross to Andermatt, on the St. Gothard route, a fatiguing journey of 13 hrs. (21 fr. 65 c.; coupé, 27 fr. 90 c.), up the Vorder-Rhein val- ley, by numerous villages, and º old Dissentis, and across the Oberalp. The Engadine is a dry, cold, and silent valley, 3,300 to 5,800 ft. high, 57 M. long, and 1 M. wide, between the Engadine and Bernina Alps and gla- ciers. It has latterly been much sought by Anglo- Americans, and affords many fine excursions. Dili- gences thrice daily (52 M.; 13% hrs.) from Coire over the Julier Pass (7,503 ft. high; inn at top) to the large 280 PONTRESINA. — LUCERN.E. Romansch village of Samaden, whence it is 3 M. to the Baths of St. Moritz (Kurhaus), famous for its chalybeate springs, impregnated with carbonic acid and alkaline salts. Alps and glaciers surround the place, and the air is very invigorating to invalids. Pontresina (Rositsch; Kreuz, Krone), 4% M. from Samaden, is the starting-point for most excursions in the Bernina chain. The season is short, prices high, and society good. Tiligences run twice daily through the whole Engadine, from Silvoplana to Schulz. The magnificent Bernina Pass, 7,657 ft. high, is crossed by daily diligences from Samaden, in 8; hrs. to Italian Tirano, whence diligences run down the Wal- tellina (45 M.; 8 hrs.) to Colico, on Lake Como. Lucerne, the Righi, the St. Gothard Route. Rly. from Basle (3% hrs. ; fares, 9 fr. 40 c., 6 fr. 60 c., 4 fr. 70 c.); or from Zürich, by Zug (6% fr., 4 fr. 55 c., 34 fr.); or from Berne (11 fr., 7; fr., 5 fr. 30 c.); to Lucerne (Schwan; Schweizerhof'; Luzernerhof; Wa- tional; Beaurivage ; D'Angleterre; Righi; Du Lac: Du St. Gothard; numerous good pensions), a town of 17,000 inhab., beautifully situated at the outlet of the most lovely lake in Switzerland, between the Pilatus and Righi, and facing the Alps of Schwyz and Engel- berg. The Arsenal contains many Turkish trophies; the Town Hall has ancient carvings; and in the Stiftskirche see grand organ, carvings, and stained i. Thorwaldsen’s Lion of Lucerne is a statue of a ying lion, 28 ft. long, cut in the face of a cliff, and commemorating 800 soldiers of the Swiss Guard, who died in defence of the Tuileries in 1792. The Capell Bridge, built in 1303, over the river Reuss, has 154 THE RIGHI. — LAKE OF LUCERN.E. 281 quaint old paintings on its roof, and ends at St. Peter's ; Chapel (12th century). The Water Tower, in the mid- dle of the Reuss, was once a light-house (lucerna), and gave name to the town. It now contains the archives. The Mühlen Bridge is ornamented with 30 singular pictures of the Dance of Death. See also Museum and Library º vols.); Stauffer's Alpine animals (1 fr.); the Glacier Garden (1 fr.); and the Jesuit ch. The Schweizerhof Quay is a beautiful promenade, with many trees, between the palatial hotels and the lake. . The Righi is a group of mts., 30–40 M. around, the chief peak, the Kulm, being 5,905 ft, high (4,470 ft. above the lake), and nearly surrounded by the lakes of Lucerne, Zug, and Lowerz. The Kulm is ascended by a mt.-rly, like that on Mt. Washington, and has several hotels (Righi-Kulm ; Screeber; Staffel ; Kur- haus ; etc.), whose landlords have been compelled by criticism to lower their prices and improve their man- ners. , Engage rooms in advance in July or Aug. ; for then hundreds come up here to spend the might and See the sunrise. Take plenty of warm wraps. It is but 24 hrs. from Lucerne to the top, by steamer to Vitzmau, and mt.-rly. thence (4; M.; 7 fr.). Circular ticket, good 3 days, from Zürich by Zug to the Righi- Kulm, down by rly, and steamer to Lucerne, and back to Zürich, costs 22 fr. 40 c., 19% fr., 16 fr. 70 c. From the crest you see a line of snowy Alps, 120 M. long, the Sentis, Bernese range, Wetterhorn, Jungfrau, etc.; elsewhere, the Juras, Vosges, Suabian Mts., Black Forest; many a famous Swiss town; and 13 lakes. The Righi-Scheideck (Kurhaus), command- ing a very noble view, is reached by branch rly. From Vitzmau go by steamer (2 hrs. ; 2 fr. 20c., 1 fr. 10 c.) to Flüelen, up the superb Lake of Lucerne (Pierwaldstätter-See, or Lake of the Four Forest Can- 282 ALTORF. — AMSTEG. tons), the grandest in Europe, 1,433 ft. high, 25 M. long, and 1–4 M. wide. It forms an irregular cross, between vast mts. From the summer hotels at the numerous villages — Beckenried, Gersau, Brunnen, etc. — fine mt. excursions may be made. Just beyond Seelisberg are the sacred springs of the Rütli, on whose meadow Fürst, Erni, and Stauffacher founded the Swiss liberties, in 1307. Beyond is Tell's Platte, with its romantic chapel, on the ledge where Tell leaped ashore from Gessler's boat. Marvellous scenery thence to the head of the lake. We recommend the tourist to go from Lucerne to Flüelen and the top of the St. Gothard ; thence to Andermatt, and over the Furca to the Rhone Glacier; thence over the Grim- sel to Interlaken. You can buy tickets at porte-bureau. Lucerne to Biasca, across the St. Gothard, for 29% fr. ; coupé, 36 fr. 20 c. Flüelen to Andermatt, 13 fr. 5 c., 15 fr. 95 c. Private carriages can be hired at Flüelen, and are much more comfortable and not more expensive. Flüelen (Urmerhof'; Adler; Flüelen; Kreuz; Tell) is the port of Uri. 2 M. beyond is Altorf (Adler; Schlüssel; Löwe), Uri's capital, in a mt.-walled valley, and the reputed scene of Tell’s shooting the apple. The site is marked by a fountain. Colossal statue of Tell near by. His birthplace, near Bürglen, is occupied by a frescoed chapel. 9 M. beyond Altorf is Amsteg (Sterm; Kreuz ; Hirsch), where the Pass begins. This was the chief route over the Alps until 1800. The road was built 1820–32. The scenery here is grander than on any other pass. The Lucerne-Milan rly. runs under the St. Gothard, in a tunnel nearly 9 M. long, built 1872–82, at a cost of over $10,000,000. Beyond Amsteg, the road ascends the narrow Reuss valley, with the huge Brisenstock on the l. ; over the ANDERMATT. — FURCA PASS. 283 lofty Pfäffenstrung bridge; by Wasen (Hôtel des Alpes) and Wattingen, near the Rohrbach fall and the Teufel- ºtein; Geschenen, at the mouth of the tunnel; up steep ascents, and over the Devil’s Bridge, where French, Austrians, and Russians fought in 1799; through the Urner Loch tunnel, into the Urseren valley; and up to Andermatt (Bellevue; Drei Könige; St. Gothard; Oberalp; Krone), among high and arid mts. crowned with snow. See chapel, and mineral collections. 9 M. : distant is the summit of the St. Gothard Pass (6,936 ft. |high), whence the road descends steeply by the Hospice to Airolo and Biasca, whence rly. to Milan. It is better to return from the top of the Pass, spend the night at Andermatt, and go over the 5 s | Furca and Grimsel Passes to Interlaken. | From Andermatt diligences run in 5–6 hrs. (21 M.; 8% fr.; coupé, 10 fr. 20 c.), through Hospenthal (Mey- serhof; Löwe), 2; M. out; and by a zigzag route up the precipices, amid wonderful scenery, to the top of the Furca Pass (Hotel de la Furca), 7,992 ft. high; past the grand and lofty Galenstock and Furkahorn; and thence to the Rhone Glacier. This vast sea of ice, 10,450 ft. high, is surrounded by lofty snowy peaks, and gives birth to the famous river Rhone. Longfellow, in Hyperion, describes it as a frozen cata- ract, 2,000 ft. high, and many miles broad. You may go thence to Brieg by diligence (5 hrs.; 11% fr. ; coupé, 13 fr. 20 c.), whence rly. to Wisp, en route to Zermatt. It is better to pass the night at the Hôtel du Glacier du Bhone ; and at morn go by horse (32 fr.) along the steep grassy Maienwand; up over the Grimsel Pass (7,103 ft. high); by the Lake of the Dead, in which the soldiers killed in the battles between the French 284 MEIRINGEN. — BRIENZ. . | and Austrians hereabouts, in 1799, were buried; down the steeps to the Hospice (now a hotel), in the rocky mt. basin of the Grimselgrund, near the Agassizhorn and the Finster-Aarhorn, and 2 hrs. from the Unter- Aar Glacier, where Prof. Agassiz abode in 1841 (ex- cursion to top of Little Sidelhorn, 3 hrs.; guide, 4 fr.); down the Aare ravine to the Handeck Falls (; fr.), where the icy river precipitates itself 250 ft., in a deep rocky gorge; by Guttanen, with its rock-strewn mead- ows; to Im-Hof, whence a good road leads to Meiringen (Hötel du Reichenbach ; /ilder Mann ; Krone : Bär), a lovely village in the Hasli valley. The adjacent Reichenbach Falls are illuminated at night by Bengal lights (small charge in hotel-bills). From behind the Chalet l’Ami you can descend into the cañon of the Aare. It is 54 hrs. hence to Handeck Falls (horse up and back, 15 fr.). The Brünig Pass is one of the most frequented. Lucerne to Alpnach (whence Pilatus may be ascended) by steamer (1} hrs.), and thence by diligence (10 fr. 90 c.; coupé, 12 fr. 90 c.) or carriage to Brienz, or to Meiringen (fares less). You pass the pretty hamlet of Sarnen, in a rich valley between high mts.; Sachseln, with a saint’s relics in its ch.; over the Brünig Pass, 3,395 ft. high (Hötel Brünigkulm); and then down- ward, with magnificent mt. views, to the Aare, where you meet the valley road. We repeat our advice to go from Lucerne to the top of the St. Gothard, and thence over the Furca and Grimsel to Meiringen. You may go thence to the top of the Brünig in a morning; and then to (9 M. from Meiringen; diligences) Brienz (Bär ; Weisses Kreuz), on the mountain- walled Lake of Brienz. 800 people are employed here in wood-carving. The lake is 7% X 23 M., and the deepest in Switzerland. It is traversed by the INTERLAKEN. — GRIN DELWALD. 285 | whitish-green waters of the Aare. The Giessbach is "... a series of 7 beautiful cascades, falling from rocks 1,148 ft. high, amid luxuriant herbage and stately trees, and ‘s illuminated at night by Bengal lights. A mt.-rly. leads from the landing on the lake, over the tree-tops, to the hotel (telegraph for rooms, and stay all night). By steamer in 10 min. from Brienz; or by footpath in 6 M. Steamer from Brienz, 4 times daily (2 fr., l fr.), to Interlaken. - The Bernese Oberland. Interlaken (Victoria; Ritschard; Jungfrau; "Des Alpes; Belvedere; Jungfrauðlick; Beau Rivage ; De la Gare ; Oberländer ; Bellevue; Du Pont : Indermühle : good restaurant), in the beautiful glen between the lakes of Brienz and Thun, is the main rendezvous of tourists during the high season (July 15 to Oct. 1), and the best point for trips in any part of the Bernese Ober- land. People remaining 2–3 weeks in this great town of hotels can get board for 8–9 fr. a day, or in the pensions at 5–6 fr. See the magnificent Höheweg promenade, lined with walnut-trees; the Kursaal, with semi-daily concerts; the old wooden village of Unter- seen ; the ruined castles of Unsprunnen and Weissenau; and the precipitous Harder mt., where many fatal accidents have occurred. The Interlaken hotels are crowded with people of fashion; and parties, balls, and receptions continually occur. Eccursions.—The legal tariffs for carriages are printed in a pamphlet (to be had at the hotels), and are ad- hered to by drivers. Local guide-books (in English) describe routes and localities. Grindelwald (Bār; £ger; Adler; Du Glacier) is reached by diligence (12 M.; 3 fr. 15 c.), and is near two vast glaciers, in 286 LAUTERBRUNNEN. — MURREN. a valley surrounded by the Wetterhorn, Mettenberg, and Eiger. Lauterbrunnen (Steinbock; Staubbach) is 7# M. from Interlaken, in a narrow rock-girt glen, close to the famous Staubbach (dust-brook), a slender but unbroken fall 980 ft. high. Farther up the glen are the grand Schmadribach Fall and the far-viewing Steinberg Alp. A marvellous Alpine experience is gained by climbing (24 hrs.) to Mürren (Grand Hôtel des Alpes ; Mürren : Zum Silberhorn), a hamlet 5,347 ft. high, on the edge of a cliff which fronts on one of . the grandest Oberland ranges. Horse from Lauter- bruhnen, 10 fr.; ladies are carried up in chairs by por- ters. Ilarge English colony here, July–Sept., with ch. Grand views of Jungfrau, Eiger, Breithorn, Mönch, etc. : Excursion thence to the Schingelhorn in 4–6 hrs. (guide necessary; return, 3 hrs.). # From Lauterbrunnen bridle-path over the Wengern- alp; by the Hôtel de la Jungfrau, whence is the finest view of the Jungfrau, 13,671 ft. high; over the Little Scheideck (Hôtel Bellevue), 6,788 ft. high, with magnificent views; and down to Grindelwald (entire journey, 6–7 hrs.). Meiringen to Grindelwald, 18 M. (73 hrs. walk, or horseback ride), by the grand Reichenbach Fall; the Baths of Rosenlaui (Hotel), near the Rosenlaui Glacier; over the Great Scheideck pass, 6,434 ft. high; and down by the Upper Grindelwald Glacier. Grand views of Wetterhorn, Faulhorn, etc., and from the low Grin- delalp. Grindelwald to Lauterbrunnen or Interlaken. The Lake of Thun, reached by r!y. from Inter- laken in 10 min. (Interlaken to Thun, 4–5 times daily, in 14 hr.; 2 fr. 80 c.), 12 × 23 M. in area, and 1,837 ft. high, has many villas and hamlets on its banks, back of which rise vast mts. As the steamer leaves SPIEZ. — BERNE. 287 Dârlingen, fine retrospect of the Mönch, Eiger, and Schreckhorn. The Gemmi. — From Spiez (Spiezerhof, Pennin; Schönegg), road into the Fružiſ/hal (2% hrs. ; also from Thun) and to Kandersteg (Wictoria). 1-horse carriage, Spiez to Frutigen, 10 fr. ; to Kandersteg, 18 fr. 2-horse carriage, 18 and 35 fr. From Kandersteg a bridle-path leads over the Gemmi pass (7,553 ft. high), amid mag- nificent scenery, and down to the Baths of Leuk (23%. M.; guide, 7 fr.; horse, 20 fr. ; horse to top of pass, 15 fr.). The steamer touches at Spiez, Oberhofen, etc., and backs down the Aare to Scherzligen, close to | Thun (Hotel de Thun ; Bellevue ; Freienhof'; Kreuz ; Krone), a prettily situated village, with quaint street- architecture; a castle built in 1182; the Federal Mili- tary School; and numerous fashionable summer-hotels. Rly. to Berne, 1 hr. (3 fr. 35 c., 2 fr. 35 c., 1 fr. 70c.). Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva. : Berne (Bernerhof and Bellevue, both with fine views of the Bernese Alps; Schweierzhof; De France; Wic- toria ; Du Jura ; Pfistern), the capital of Switzerland (40,000 inhab.), on a sandstone peninsula high over the Aare, has pleasant arcaded streets and mediaeval houses and fountains, and is a favorable place to rest after journeying in the Alps. See fine Gothic Cathedral (1573), with quaint carvings and famous organ; Cathe- dral-Terrace, viewing the entire Bernese range, Wetter- horn, Finster-Aarhorn, Mönch, Eiger, Jungfrau, etc., and the beautiful roseate sunset effect of the Alpen- Glow ; statues of Rudolph von Erlach and Berthold Won Zähringen; Museum (open daily, 1 fr.) of natural history and antiquities; University, 400 students, and rich library; Rathhaus, built 1406; Bear-Pit, with ven- 288 FREIBURG. – LAUSANNE. erated bears; Arsenal, and military curiosities; Clock. Tower, built in 1191, with quaint automata; Corn-Hall, over great wine-cellars; Ogre Fountain; etc. The Fed- eral Palace (open daily, 1 fr.) is a noble Florentine . building (1857), in which the national councils hold their sessions (in July). On its upper floor is a gallery . (daily, 50 c.) of paintings, mostly modern; and from . the roof is gained a famous view of the Alps and city. . Beautiful views also from the Schänzli and the Enge, near Berne. º From Berne by rly. in 1–l4 hr. (fares, 3% fr., 2% fr., lfr. 85 c.) to s Freiburg (Höffel de Fribourg ; Zähringer), founded : (like Berne) by Berthold von Zähringen in 1175, and standing on sandstone cliffs over the river Sarine, a nobly picturesque situation. See the Gothic Cathedral (built 1285), in which is a renowned organ of 7,800 pipes, said to have the richest tone in the world (con- cert at dusk, summer evenings, 1 fr.); the 16th-century Rathhaus, with its venerable lime-tree and stairway to . the lower town; and the Suspension Bridge, 900 ft. long and 168 ft. above the river. The descent hence to Lausanne (42 M.) is one of the most beautiful routes in Europe. , Take seat on l. side, to see the Lake of Geneva and its picturesque shores. Exquisite view after emerging from the tunnel beyond Cherbres (the stat. for Vevay). Lausanne (Riche Monte ; Du Faucon ; Bellevue; Belvedere; Du Grand Pont ; Gibbon, where Gibbon wrote part of his history), with its lovely views over the lake, has become a favorite summer-resort and place of residence (27,000 inhab). See Gothic Ca. thedral (Protestant), built 1235–75, where Calvin and others held a famous debate, in 1536, resulting in Prot- estantizing Vaud. It is reached by 164 steps from GENEVA. — FERNEY. 289 the market-place; and the plain symmetrical interior is 300 ft. long. The old Episcopal Castle (now Cantonal Council-Hall) commands a broad prospect. See the two museums. From the Signal, hr.’s walk out, the best view is gained. Continue on this route, by the lovely villages of Morges, Nyon, and Coppet, to * Geneva (Grand Hôtel de la Paiz : Des Bergues ; De Russie ; Beau Rivage ; D’Angleferre ; Național ; Schweizerhof'; Victoria ; Des Quatre Saisons ; Rich- mont; Métropole; De la Couronne; De la Poste ; Du Lac ; De Paris; , Balance ; Lion d'Or), a city of nearly 50,000 inhab., in a pretty situation at the foot of the Lake of Geneva, and divided into two parts by the swift and rushing blue Rhone. The favorite prom- enade, the Mont-Blanc Bridge, crosses between the lake and Rousseau's Island, on which is a statue of Rousseau. Broad quays, lined with handsome buildings and hotels, face the river and lake. Beautiful views of Mont Blanc from the Quai du Mont Blanc and the pier beyond. The Cathedral (Protestant), “the St. Peter’s of the North,” is a plain 11th-century building (50 c.), con- taining several old monuments. Here Calvin preached. His house is close by ; and his grave is in Plain-Palais cemetery. Rousseau's birthplace was No. 40 Grand’ Rue. See Musée Fol, antiquities; Musée Roth (daily, ll–3), with many paintings and casts; Florentine Hotel de Ville, with inclined planes instead of stairs; National Monument, bronze group by the lake; the Academy (1867–71), with large library and MSS., and famous natural-history collections; and the vast new monument to Duke Charles II. of Brunswick, on the Place des Alpes. Eccursions. – To Ferney, 4; M. N. W. (hourly omnibus over a route rich in views), where Woltaire 19 290 LAKE OF GENEVA. — COPPET. founded a town, built factories, a château, and a ch. (inscribed Deo erewit Woltaire); to the imposing new Rothschild villa, at Prégny; to the Salève, 4 M. S. E., a limestone mt., 4,278 ft. high, giving a panoramic view of the Mont-Blanc chain, the Juras, and the Lake of . Geneva; to Les Voirons, another far-viewing mt. ; to the villas where dwelt Voltaire, Byron, Lola Montez, and the Empress Josephine; to the French stronghold of Fort de l’Ecluse ; and to the Perfe du Rhone, where, at low water, the river vanishes in a deep cañon. The Lake of Geneva, the Lacus Lemanus of the Romans, and Lac Léman of the French, is the largest Swiss lake, being about 50 × 9 M. (225 sq. M.) in area, and 1,230 ft. above the sea. It is in the form of a half-moon. The water is deep blue, and contains but few fish. It never freezes over, and has mysterious rises and falls, strong currents, and water-spouts. Voltaire and Rousseau, Byron and Goethe, have praised its magnificent scenery. Scores of villages line the shores, but have little commerce on the water. Capital steamboats ply here. The S. coast boat runs in 4–5 hrs. (6 fr., 3 fr.) by Thonon, capital of Chablais; and Evian (Hôtel de France; Evian ; Des Bains), a beautiful and fashion- able French summer-resort, with fine views of Lausanne; to Bouveret, at the end of the lake (rly. to Martigny). The better route is along the N. shore, 4} hrs. (7% fr., 3 fr.) from Geneva by Wersoir, once a French town; Coppet (Croia: Blanche), whose castle was long time the home and is now the burial-place of Necker, the famous finance-minister, and his daughter, Madame de Staël; Nyon (Beau Rivage ; Ange), a lovely village, with a massive 12th-century castle, and a splendid view of Mont Blanc.; Rolle, birthplace of La Harpe, to whom an obelisk has been raised on an MORGES. — VEVAY. — NEUCHATEL. 291 adjacent island; Morges, with a castle once occupied by Bertha, Queen of Burgundy; Ouchy (Hötel Beau Rivage; D’Angleterre; Roseneck, whence rly. in 6 min., 50 c., 25 c.) to Lausanne; Corsier, close to the impos- ing and far-viewing Grand Hofel de Vevay, in º of magnolias and rose-trees; Vevay (Grand Hotel de Vevay; Monnet ; Du Lac), a sheltered nook with semi- tropical climate, much visited by invalids and summer loiterers, and celebrated in Rousseau's Nouvelle Héloise; Clarens, with many villas and pensions, and natural beauties extolled by Byron and Rousseau; and Mon- treux (Hotel de l’Union ; Pont), a shelter for consump- tives; to Villeneuve, at the end of the lake (rly. to Martigny, etc.). Pleasant walk thence to the famous Castle of Chillon (2 M.; entrance, 50 c.), whose dungeons and their illustrious prisoner have been im- mortalized by Byron. It is 3; M. thence to Clarens, whence 3; M. to Vevay. Neuchâtel (Bellevue ; Mont Blanc ; Faucom), 2–2% hrs. by rly, from Lausanne, stands on an amphitheatrical slope of the Jura, sloping down to the lake, and is famous for watches. Wealthy citizens have endowed it nobly. See splendid Gymnasium and Academy, museums, Library (70,000 vols.), new College, Picture- Gallery (; fr.) of fine modern Swiss paintings, ancient Castle, and the 3 great hospitals. Agassiz was once a professor here. The Lake of Neuchâtel, 24 × 5 M. in area, lies at the foot of the Juras, with level shores and deep waters. At its S. end is Yverdon (Hotel de Londres ; Croia Fédérale), where Pestalozzi conducted his school (1805–25). Steamboats run from Neuchâtel to Estavayer, and into the gloomy Lake of Morat, amous in Roman and Burgundian history. To the N., 1 hr. by rly. from Berne, is Bienne, a lovely Bernese town of 8,000 inhab., near Chasseral mt. The Lake 292 AIGLE. — THE COL DE BALME: of Bienne (7 M. long) contains the Peterinsel, where Rousseau took refuge when driven from Geneva (in 1765). 3 :- Chamounix and Mont Blanc. From Geneva by steamer to Willeneuve, rly. thence to Mar.- : tigny, and across to Chamounix. Diligence or char-à-banc from Geneva in 7% hrs. (21 fr. ; coupé, 25 fr.). Carriage, 1-horse, 45 fr. ; 2-horse, 80 fr. This route is at first rather dull. France is entered at Annemasse. Dinner at Sallanches. Fare by boat and rly., Geneva to Martigny, 13 fr. 90 c., 9 fr. 60 c., 6 fr. 90 c. Ascending the Rhone Valley from Villeneuve, the rly. passes Aigle (Grand Hôtel des Bains ; Beau Site), a pleasant summer-resort; and , Bex (Grand Hôtel des Salines ; Union), whence route . to Sion, across the Col de Chéville. Beautiful views : of the Dent du Midi, while nearing St. Maurice (Eeu º de Palais ; Des Alpes ; Du Simplon), a very old town, i. with a 4th-century abbey, enshrining rare curiosities; a , stalactite grotto; and picturesque fortifications. Beyond Evionnaz stat, see the Pissevache fall (200 ft.) on the r This is best visited from Vernayaz (Hôtel des Gorges; Des Alpes), which is also very near the cele- brated Gorge du Trient. Martigny (Höffel Clerc, De ła Tour; Poste; Mont Blanc ; Bellevue) is the starting- point of the routes over the Simplon (to Lake Maggiore) and the Great St. Bernard (to Aosta), and over the passes to Chamounix. You can visit Chamounix; ascend to the top of the St. Bernard; return to Mar- tigny; and go thence over the Simplon. The Col de Balme. — Martigny to Chamounix, 9–10 hrs. ; mule and attendant, 24 fr. and gratuity (2 mules, 36 fr.). Carriage-road as far as Trient, where lunch is taken. Grand view of the Mont-Blauc CHAMOUNIX. — MONT BLANC. 293 | group. Path in 2 hrs. to Col de Balme (Hôtel | Suisse), 7,231 ft. high, the boundary between Swiss Valais and French Savoy, with amazing prospect of mts. Descend the Arve valley thence to Tour and Argentière (Bellevue); whence road (1-horse carriage, 5 fr., and 1 fr. to driver) to Chamounix (Hotel Saussine; Royal ; De la Cou- ronne ; Londres ; Angleferre ; Moná Blanc ; Union), in the Arve valley, 3,445 ft. high, at the foot of Mont Blanc, which has 15–20,000 visitors yearly, and is one of the chief centres for Alpine tourists. Rooms should be secured in advance. The whole valley is worthy of study, and has scores of points of interest. Tariffs for guides and mules (strictly observed) may be obtained at chief guide's office. . . In a day you may ascend the | Montanvert (easy bridle-path, 25 hrs.), whence Tyn- dall studied glacier movement; cross the wonderful Mer de Glace to the rocky cliffs of the Chapeau (path in the ice, 14 hrs.), where there is an inn; descend to es Praz, climb thence to La Flégère (path in 24 hrs. ; inn on summit, 6,260 ft. high), whence magnificent View of the vast snowy Mont Blanc, Aiguille Wert, Mer de Glace, etc.; and return to Chamounix. On the descent to Les Praz, you may visit the source of the Arveiron. The Jardin is among the rocks on the Glacier de Talºfre, where Alpine flowers bloom in August. The Brévent, one of the Aiguilles Rouges, 8,284 ft. high, commanding the best view of Mont Blanc, may be climbed by path in 4 hrs. Mont Blanc, the highest of the Alps (15,781 ft.), the boundary between France and Italy, was first ascended in 1786. About 40 parties now ascend yearly (3–4 persons, 100 fr. each, for guides, etc.). Many Valuable lives have been lost here, but in fine weather and with due caution there is little danger. First day's 294 ST. BERNARD PASS. climb to stone huts on Grands. Mulets (10,007 ft.) • 3 * second, to summit and back; third, from Grands Mulets to Chamounix. The Tête-Noire affords a good route from Chamou- mix to Martigny (9–10 hrs.). Highway to Argentière, whence bridle-path up a ravine ; across the Col des: Montets; near the Poyaz and Barberine Cascades ; ; through Valorcine village and Le Chaffelard; through the rocky Téte-Noire pass; and down through Trient to Martigny. The St. Bernard and Simplon Passes.— Zermatt. Martigny to the Hospice, 11% hrs., a very interesting . journey. Start at morn (2-horse carriage, 45 fr. and gratuity); or pass night at Orsières, ascend to Hospice to breakfast, and return to Martigny afternoon. Daily diligence to Bourg St. Pierre. The road ascends the Dranse valley to Orsières (Hötel des Alpes); climbs steeply 5 M. to Liddes (Angleferre ; Union), whence . mule and guide to Hospice, 8–9 fr. ; by Bourg St. Pierre (Au Déjeuner de Napoléon) and Cantine de Proz, the end of the road. 7 M. distant, through the Défile s de Marengo, at the top of the pass, is St. Bernard . Hospice, 8,110 ft. above the sea, occupied since 962 by French Augustinian monks, who give free hospi- tality to all travellers. 20,000 peasants are fed here every year; and in summer many tourists come. No charge is made for food, etc., but well-to-do travellers put money in the poor-box of the ch. The convent, very rich in the Middle Ages, is now poor. Its pro- visions are brought from Italy, See Napoleon’s monu- ment to Dessaix, in the chapel; the great library; the Morgue; and the noble dogs. The pass has been . :t: ZERMATT. — SIMPLON PASS. 295 crossed by vast armies of Romans, Lombards, Franks, and Germans; and in 1799 heavy fighting occurred here between the Austrians and Napoleon's troops. It is 6 hrs, hence to Aosta, in Italy. Zermatt (Hötel du Mont-Cervin ; Mont-Rose) is approached from Martigny by rly. to Vispach (23–3 hrs.), whence bridle-path to St. Niklaus (44 hrs.), from which highway, 12# M. A grand route, among gorges, cascades, and rocky peaks, with vast mts. in advance. The village is the highest in Europe (7,021 ft.), con- tinuously inhabited, and is in the very heart of the Alps, in a glen invaded by 3 glaciers and overtopped by the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, and other vast peaks. Its ch.-yard has graves of several famous men who lost their lives on these mts. The Riffelberg (with hotel) is 3 hrs. distant, by bridle-path; and 1% hr, beyond is the rocky crest of Gorner Grat, 10,290 ft. high, with su- perb view of Monte Rosa's rocky pyramids (16,132 ft.), on the S. E.; the black Breithorn (13,685 ft.), on the S.; the craggy Matterhorn (14,704 ft.), on the W.; the Dent Blanche, Gabelhorn, Moming, the Mischabel, and the Allaleinhorn, in the N.; with many vast glaciers and noted passes. From Zermatt visit the Gorner Glacier (12 M. long), which is larger than the Mer de Glace; the Findelen Glacier; and to the Cima di Jazi (12,526 ft.), by the Riffelberg. The St. Theodule Pass leads to Aosta. Monte Rosa (15,217 ft.) is often climbed, even by ladies (up and back, 12–14 hrs.). The fatal Matterhorn is ascended by several parties yearly (a severe 2-days’ trip). The Simplon. – Rly. from Martigny in 23–3 hrs. (11 fr. 85 c., 7 fr. 90c., 5 fr. 95 c.), by Saxon-les-Bains (Grand Hôtel; casino and gaming-table), with iodated Waters, good for skin-diseases; beautiful Sion (Lion d'Or; Poste), with old castles, Gothic cathedral, 2 fine 296 SIMPLON PASS. old chs., and 5,000 inhab.; mediaeval Sierre (Bellevue), with the châteaux of the Valais nobles; Leuk, a few miles from the Baths of Leuk (Hôtel des Alpes; Bellevue ; De France), and at the foot of the Gemmi Pass; and Wisp (route to Zermatſ). From the end of . the rly., at Brieg (Hotel d’Angleterre), diligences cross the Simplon Pass in 9–10 hrs. (39 M. ; fares, 16 fr. 55 c.; coupé, 19 fr. 65 c.), to Domo d’Ossola. Napoleon built this great road, in 1801–6, at a cost of $3,600,000, for a military route into Italy. There are numerous houses of refuge where the road nears the glaciers. * The crest of the pass is 6,594 ft. high, in an open val- ley among glaciers. Beyond, near Monte Leone, is . the Hospice, whose monks are hospitable to all comers. Magnificent mt.-scenery on upper reaches of . pass. The road descends 5% M. to Simplon (Poste), and through the Gondo Ravine. # M. beyond the hamlet of Gondo it enters Italy, and passes down, by several villages, through wild and picturesque gorges, sº by the Crevola Gallery, and over the lofty Doveria: Bridge, to Domo d' Ossola. (See page 298.) r : ROUTES INTO ITALY. 297 ITALY. HE money of Italy is reckoned in lire and centesimi, which correspond to francs and centimes. The paper |money, with which the country is flooded, is about 2 per cent. below par. Beware of counterfeits; also of taking large |bank-notes in one city which may not be good in another. See Chapter on Travel, for general observations on Italy. Many complaints have been made during the past season of thefts in the Italian post-office. We recommend travellers |not to send money to Italy in registered letters, and not to expect to receive it in that manner while in Italy. It is well |also not to carry valuable jewelry, or money, in trunks. Routes into Italy. | 1. Paris to Turin, by Mt. Cenis, 4963. M.; 21 (express) to 30 hrs. ; fares, 100 fr. 10 c., 72 fr. 55 c., 54 fr. 15 c. Route leads through Fontainebleau, Ton- nerre, Montbard (Buffon's home), Dijon, Macon, Culoz, |Chambéry, and Modane (frontier stat.; change cars). The Mt.-Cenis Tunnel, 8 M. long, was built 1861– |71, at a cost of $15,000,000. Trains for Italy run hrough it in 45 min. ; trains for France, in 25 min. 2. Paris to Genoa, by Marseilles and Wice, 790% M.; fares, 155 fr. 90 c. 105 fr. 35 c., 84 fr. 30 c. Rly. |from Genoa via Alessandria, to Turin; or from Savona, of Genoa, to Turin (55 hrs.). 3. Geneva to Milan, by the Simplon, see p. 295. I, 4. Lucerne to Milan, by the St. Gothard (see p. 280), through Flüelen, Airolo, and Bellinzona, and thence |}y, by Como. Ör rly, through from Lucerne to Milan (fare, 36 fr. 70 c.). ... 8 ~ t 298 LAKE MAGGIORE. 5. Coire to Milan, by the Splügen, to Chiavenna and Colico, whence steamer to Como, and rly. to Milan. Or by Bernardino Pass, Coire to Bellinzona, whences rly. Or by Julier and Bermina Passes, Coire to Sama. den, Tirano, and Colico, whence steamer to Como, and rly, to Milan. 6. Basle to Milan, by the Stelvio. Rly. to Con. stance and Bludenz; diligence to Landeck, Nanders, Bormio, and Colico; steamer and rly. to Milan, 7. Munich to Verona, by Brenner Pass, see p. 264. 8. , Vienna to Venice, by the Semmering, all riy., by Bruch and Villach, through magnificent scenery. Leaves Vienna at 7 A.M.; reach Venice, 11 P.M. Orrly, from Vienna to Trieste, and steamer thence to Venice. The Tour of the Italian Lakes. Domo d' Ossola (Grand Hôtel de la Ville; D’Es- pagne) is a pretty southern village, with a charming. view from the Calvary, hr. distant. Diligences twice. daily (373. M.; 6 hrs. ; 8 l. 85 c.; outside, 14%l.) by the ruined castle of Wogogna ; Ornavasso, with a castle. of the Visconti, and the quarries whence Milanº Cathedral was hewn ; Baveno; and along Lake Mag- giore, in sight of the Borromean Islands, to Stresa and Arona. Thence by rly. (42} M.; 24 hrs. ; 8 l. 5 c.,. 5 1.85 c., 4 l. 15 c.), around the S. end of the lake, and across the vast and fertile Lombard plain, to Milan... Diligences run also from Domo d’Ossola to Pallamaz, farther up the lake. It is wise to make a tour of the lakes (1–2 days) before going to Milan. Lake Maggiore, 37 × 4; M. in area, and of vast depth, is very beautiful, with the rich plains and vine- yards on the S., and the great mts, on the N. There. : are marble and granite quarries on its shores, and rich ARONA. — BORROMEAN ISLANDS. 299 mines. Arona (Italia ; Albergo Reale), on the S., is an old town, with rare paintings in its ch. On the hill is a copper and bronze statue, 42 ft. high, of St. Charles Borromeo (1697), the famous Cardinal-Arch- bishop of Milan, who died in 1584. The head will hold 3 persons (ladders ascend to it, inside). Steamer from Arona to Lugano, 4 l. 80 c., 21.65 c. It calls at Stresa (Hotel des Iles Borromées; Milan), with its fine monastery and cypress-trees; and Baveno (Grand Hotel ; Bellevue; Beau Rivage ; Sempione). The shores are lined with villas; and in the N. glimmer the Alps, Monte Rosa, St. Gothard, etc. The beautiful Borro- mean Islands are touched at (see Jean Paul Richter's description). Isola Bella (Hötel du Dauphin) has the great palace of the Borromeo family (open daily; 11.), rising over 10 terraces of gardens, rich in flowers and fountains. Isola Madre has an empty palace, above 7 terraces, laden with orange and lemon trees, cedars, and cypresses. Boat with 2 men, from Baveno, 5 l. first hr., 11. others. Arona to Isola Bella, by steamer, 1; l., 90 c.; fare thence, by Fariolo, Intra, and Laveno, ll. 85 c., 11. 15c., to Luino. Opposite is Cannero, among the vineyards, with ancient brigands' castles off- shore. Lovely villages appear on either coast. The steamer keeps on N. to Locarno (Grand Hôtel Lucarno; Corona ; Svizzera), in the Swiss Canton of Ticino, to which the upper part of the lake belongs. See ch, with good pictures; Cantonal buildings; and Ch. of Madonna del Sasso, on the hill, visited by myriads of pilgrims. Rly. hence to Bellinzona, whence. diligence over the Splügen. Return by boat (21. 10 c., ll. 20 c.) to - Lºuino (Hotel du Simplon ; Posta ; Vittoria), a fa- Vorite summer-resort, with the Crivelli Palace and Garibaldi's statue. Diligences hence (3 hrs.; 19 M.; 300 LAKE LUGANO. — LAKE COMO. 3 l. 60 c., 2 l. 90 c.) through a beautiful wooded coun- try, up the Tresa valley, to Lugano (Höfel du Parc, an old convent; hºashington, once the Government alace; Corona ; Svizzera), a Swiss cantonal capital, º inhabited by Italians, amid exquisite scenery and rich villas. See S. Lorenzo Ch.; Sta. Maria, with Luini’s frescos; Wm. Tell’s statue ; and old convents and }. Excursion to Mt. S. Salvadore (2,982 ft. high) in 2 hrs. (guide and horse, 71.). View of Alps. . . Lake Lugano is a series of deep, sinuous gulfs among the mts., 14 M. long and 3 M. wide, Swiss on . one side, Italian on the other, in a climate of perpetual § spring, and amid very lovely scenery. The adjacent º peaks overlook the Lombard plain, down to Milan. : Steamer from Lugano (2}l., 11.), by Osteno, near a remarkable grotto, to Porlezza, a quaint village in an amphitheatre of hills; or S., to Capolago, whence omni- i. bus to Como. , Diligence (9 M.; 2 hrs. ; 31. 60 c.; ; carriages, 6–12 l.) from Porlezza, by Piano and Croce, and through a rich country, with Lake Como below and the Alps in sight from the Splügen to the Ortler Spitz, to Menaggio (Grand Hôtel; hittoria; Corona), º i on Lake Como. This is a good point for excursions; . and on the hill is the Willa Pigoni, with fine sculptures. Lake Como, the Lacus Larius of the Romans, is iſ shaped like the letter Y, and is 32 M. long, 2–3 M. º. wide, and 1,800 ft. deep. It is one of the loveliest lakes tº in the world, and its natural charms of mts., vineyards, . and forests are heightened by the white Italian hamlets º ând the splendid villas of Milanese families. Cross to º Bellaggio (Grande Bretagne; Bellaggio; Genazzini ; Willa Serbelloni; Florence; Suisse), a favorite Anglo- tº American resort. The Villa Melzi (11.) has splendid : º (by Canova) and frescos, and a famous garden. From Willa Serbelloni, best view on the COMO. — LAKE OF GARDA. 301 lake. Across the lake is Cadennabbia (Bellevue ; Belle Ile; Britannia), near the celebrated Villa Car- lotta (fee, 1 l.), rich in finest sculptures of Canova and Thorwaldsen. Steamer (11. 55 c., 75 c.) from Bel- laggio to Colico, whence diligences over the Splügen to Coire (see p. 278); and return thence (4; l., 2 1.45 c.) by the castles of Musso, the ancient terror of the lakes; and many beautiful hamlets and villas, to Como (Hotel Wolfa ; Italia; Cappello), a place of over 20,000 inhab. with statues of its eminent natives, the elder and the younger Pliny, and Volta, the electrician. See marble Lombard-Gothic Cathedral (1396), with fine paintings (by Guido, Veronese, etc.) and sculptures, and vivid coloring; Ch. of Crocefisso, richly adorned; basilica of S. Abbondio, 1 M. out; ancient Porta del Torre; and handsome old Broletto, or town-hall. Steamers run from Bellaggio down the picturesque Lake of Lecco, an arm of Como, to Lecco, at the foot of the high Rese- gone peaks (rly. to Milan). Como to Milan, 30 M.; l; hrs. (5; l., 31.85 c., 2% l.). The Lake of Orta, 9 × 1%. M. in area, is charm- ingly situated among the Piedmontese hills. Omnibus (2} ].) from Arona to Orta (Hötel S. Giulio ; Leone d'Oro), a marble-paved hamlet on a promontory, near the Sacro Monte, a height dotted with chapels, and looking up on Monte Rosa. — The Lake of Iseo is 15 × 1; M. in area, winding, in S shape, among groves of mulberries and figs and gardens of roses and camel- lias. Omnibus from Brescia, or from Palazzolo stat. (14 M.) to Iseo (Hotel Leone), whence steamer to beautiful Sarnico and Lovere. —The great Lake of Garda, 35 × 7 M. in area, 1,000 ft. deep, with clear blue waters, abounding in fish, and very picturesque shores, is traversed by steamboats, running from Des- enanzo (the home of Catullus) or Peschiera (near the 302 MILAN. battle-field of Solferino), on the Milan-Verona rly, to | Riva, a beautiful. Austrian village at the N. end. § The North-Italian Cities. Milan (Hôtel de la Ville; Cavour; Milan ; Gran Bretagna, all expensive; Royal ; Europa, Manin ; ; Roma : Falcone), is a beautiful and enterprising city (262,000 inhab.), 9 M. around, in the centre of the rich Lombard plain. It was founded 400 B.C.; a . capital in the 3d century; sacked by Attila in 452; . a Lombard city in 568; annexed by Charlemagne; ; destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa in 1162; rebuilt by the Lombard League; governed by the Visconti is and Sforza families, 1312–1545; conquered by Francis . I. in 1515; annexed by Charles V. soon after, and Spanish till 1714; capital of Italy, 1805–14; an Aus. . trian garrison, 1814–59; and since then Italian. Man- ; i. was born here; also 5 Popes; and Virgil studied lere. º The magnificent Gothic Cathedral, second only to . St. Peter's and Seville Cathedrals in size, was built 1386–1500. It is cruciform, with double aisles and transept-aisles, separated by 52 pillars, each 12 ft. in diameter, with niches crowded with statues. Interior 477 ft. long, 183 ft. wide, and 155 ft. high. It con- tains 6,000 statues, a pavement of marble mosaic, vast º granite monoliths, superb stained windows, many tombs of magnates, St. Carlo Borromeo's wooden crucifix and sº gorgeous tomb, and life-size silver statues of saints (in the Treasury). The wonderful marble roof (entered tº from r. transept, 5 A.M. till dusk, 25 c.), with 98 Gothic turrets, hundreds of pinnacles, and over 2,000 life-size marble statues (some by Canova), should be carefully studied (2–3 hrs.). Ascend (at early morn) to the : MILAN. 303 upper gallery of the tower (494 steps), which is 360 ft. high, and view the Lombard plain, Apennines, and Alps (Mt. Cenis, Blanc, St. Bernard, Rosa, Matter- horn, Mischabel, Leone, St. Gothard, Splügen, Ortler Spitz, etc.). Watchman here, with telescope. Cross Cathedral Sq., and enter the Victor-Emmanuel Gallery, the finest arcade in the world; built in 1865–7, at a cost of $1,600,000; 960 ft. long, 48 wide, 94 high; surrounded by handsome shops; richly frescoed; and adorned with statues of Raphael, Galileo, Dante, Cavour, and 20 other famous Italians. The octagon under the dome (180 ft. high) is brilliantly lighted at night, when it forms a favorite promenade. On the adjacent Piazza della Scala, see Leonardo da Vinci's monument (1872), the massive Municipal Palace (1555), and the great La Scala Theatre, with 3,600 sittings (11. to see build- ing; famous ballets here, in season). Near by is the Jesuit ch. of San Fedele (1569). The Brera, once a Jesuit college (1675), is a great palace built around a quadrangle adorned with statues; and contains a library of 270,000 vols., a celebrated gallery (open daily, 9–4, ll.; free on Sun.) of 400 paintings; noble archaeological museum; and sculptures (get catalogue). The Piazza de' Armi, N.W. of Milan, has the Arena, built by Napoleon I., and holding 30,000 spectators; the Castle of the Sforzas, built 1358; and the great friumphal marble Arch, ending the Simplon route, founded by Napoleon (1804) to record his victories, and finished by Austria (1830), with reliefs showing the victories over France. Grand statues on summit. The Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the chief business Street, and contains S. Carlo Borromeo (a copy of the Roman Pantheon), and several palaces. See Piazza dei Mercanti, with Erchange and 13th-century palace of the Podesta; Piazza Beccaria, with statue of Beccaria; \ 304 LA CERTOSA. and the Roman, Garibaldi, and Tosa Gates. S. Am- brogio, founded by St. Ambrose (4th century), is a Romanesque ch., rich in monuments of ancient Chris- tianity, 8th-century reliefs, 9th-century mosaics, Stili- cho's sarcophagus, the brazen serpent of Moses. Here Augustine embraced Christianity; Ambrose closed the gates against the Emperor Theodosius; and the Lom- bard and German sovereigns received the Iron Crown. : In the refectory (1 l.), near the rich old abbey-cli. of . S. Maria delle Grazie, are the remains of Leonardo da Vinci's grand fresco of The Last Supper. See the 4th- century octagonal S. Lorenzo, and its colonnade; S. Maria di S. Celso, with remarkable paintings, sculptures, and atrium; S. Maurizio (Benedictine), with noble frescos by Luini. The Ambrosian Library (open 10–3, ll.), founded (1609) by Cardinal Borromeo, has 160,000 vols., 15,000 MSS., many literary curiosities, and several hun- dred paintings. The Civic Museum (Tues., Wed., Sat., 11–3; 50 c.) has large natural-history collections. See the Ospedale Maggiore (1457), a vast hospital with 9 courts; Military Hospital; Manzoni’s house; palaces of Borromeo, Litta, Omoneni, Trivulzio, and Ciani families; Cemetery, with cremation-temple; Pub- lic Gardens, where Exhibition of 1881 was held; Arch- bishops’ Palace, near Cathedral, with fine court (1565); and Royal Palace, adjacent, with huge Napoleonic frescos. La Certosa (1 hr. by rly.; 31. 20 c., 2 l. 25 c., 11. 60 c.), in a fertile and populous plain, is one of the most sumptuous monasteries in the world, and belongs to the Carthusians. It was founded in 1396 by the Wisconti; and here Francis I. was a prisoner in 1525. The ch., with 14 columns, a high dome, mosaic floor, monuments, and frescos, is crowded with precious things. The rich Renaissance façade (1473) is in PAVIA. — ALESSANDRIA. — TURIN. 305 colored marbles, with delicate carvings. Grand clois- ters, with slender marble pillars, and monks' houses. Pavia (Croce Bianca ; Lombardia) is a little way S. (fares from Milan, 4 l. 10 c., 21. 85 c., 21. 10 c.). See unfinished Cathedral, richly decorated; Promenade, along Ticino River; University, the oldest in Europe; old Romanesque Ch. of S. Michele, with Giottesque frescos, colossal statue of Ghislieri; towers on the walls; and Castle, built 1460. Pavia to Cremona and Brescia, 14 l. 5 c., 91, 85 c., 7 l. 5 c.; to Piacenza, 6 l. 85 c., 4 l. 80 c., 31. 45 c. From La Certosa the fares are 7 l. 40 c., 5 l. 20 c., 3 l. 75 c., to Alessandria (Hötel de l’Univers; Europa ; Italia), a huge fortress (60,000 inhab.), whose ap- proaches can be flooded in war-time. Citadel built, 1728, by Victor Amadeo II. Hence in 2#–3 hrs. (101. 20 c., 7 l. 30 c., 5 l. 15 c.) to Turin (Hötel de l’Europe; De la Ligurie; Feder; D'Angleferre; Trombetta; De Turin), a prosperous city of 212,644 inhab., on the plain of the Po, near the Graian Alps. It was destroyed by Hannibal (218 B.C.) and Alaric; was a Roman colony; a bishopric under Charlemagne; capital of Savoy and Sardinia, and of Italy (1859–65). It is laid out with Philadelphian regularity, and surrounded by umbrageous promenades, on site of old walls. ... The Palazzo Madama is a huge mediaeval pile, centrally situated; and once the Senate- house of Italy. Across the Piazza Castello is the Royal Palace, a ponderous old brick building (usually open), richly furnished, and with fine statuary, library (50,000 vols.; open, 9–4), and armory (daily, 11–3; 50 c.), with Roman, French, and Austrian standards, Cellini's metal-work, weapons, armor, etc. The hand- Some and busy Via di Po, with arcades, runs thence to the Po bridge. The Palace of the Duke of Genoa 20 - 306 - TURIN. — NOVARA. is connected with that of the King. The Royal and Zoological Gardens are open 11–3 (music at 1). In the Palazzo dell’Accademia are collections in natural history, sculptures, Egyptian antiquities, a library of 40,000 vols., and a gallery (open daily; get catalogue) of 600 pictures, many of them of great interest. The Cathedral (1498) contains the Cappella del SS. Sudario, a high-domed round chapel of brown marble, where the sovereigns of Savoy are buried. La Consolata ch. contains a revered image of the Virgin. The palaces and arcades of the Piazza del Statuto were erected by an English company, and surround a memorial of the Fréjus Tunnel. There are many fine statues and groups in the squares, honoring Italian notables. The University, a vast Renaissance palace, has 1,500 stu- dents, and a library of 200,000 volumes. See Albertina Academy of Fine Arts (open daily); Municipal Museum ; House of Tasso; house where. Cavour died; Royal Theatre; Ch. of Gran Madre di Dio; Cavour's and Emmanuel Philibert's Monuments; the great Carignano Palace; the favorite Public Garden, with château of Il Walentino; handsome granite bridge; Arsenal; Citadel; Corpus Domini ch., richly decorated; S. Rocco; S. Andrea ; Maldensian Temple ; Capuchin Monastery, with grand view of the Alps. The Cemetery,l} M. N. E., has tombs of Silvio Pellico, Massimo d'Azeglio, Gioberti, etc. La Superga, on a hill E. of Turin, viewing city and Alps (Monte Rosa), is a splendid ch., built in 1717, with the tombs of Sardinian kings. º Walleys of the Waldenses are 30–40 M. S. W. of Ull’II1, From Turin you may go to Milan (171, 111.90c., 81. 55 c.) by Novara (Tre Re; Italia), a large Pied- montese market-town, where Peter Lombard was born in 1100. The 4th-century Cathedral has columns of an older pagan temple. BERGAMO. — BRESCIA. 307 Turin to Venice, 257 M.; 10% hrs., express; fares, 47 l. 10 c., 33 l. 5 c., 231. 65 c. Milan to Bergamo (39 M.; 2 hrs.), 51. 90 c., 4 l. 15 c., , 2 l. 95 c.; to Brescia, 11; l., 8 l. 5 c., 5 l. 75 c.; to Verona, 18 l. 30 c.; to Venice, 311. 80 c., 22 l. 80 c., 16 l. 30 c. Take morning train. Fine scenery and interesting cities. Bergamo (Italia) is a prosperous fortified provincial and episcopal capital (38,000 inhab.). Aris- tocratic and governmental Old Town on hill, with Cas- tle above it; commercial New Town below. About the Piazza Garibaldi, Cathedral, splendid Colleoni Chapel, Municipal Palace, and quaint old Gothic Broleſło pal- ace. See very interesting Ch. of Sta. Maria Maggiore (1173), containing tomb of Donizetti; Accademia Carrara, with over 200 ancient paintings; vast build- ings, with 600 shops, for annual Fair (Aug. 15-Sept. 15). Excursions to Vals Brembana and Seriana, and Lake of Iseo. Brescia (Albergo Reale ; Italia ; Fenice) makes famous arms, silks, and cloths (39,000 inhab.); was a Gaulish town; a Roman colony; Milan’s rival in the 16th century; sacked by Gaston de Foix in 1512; a Venetian garrison, 1517–1797; bombarded by Aus- trians in 1849. Beautifully situated at foot of the Alps, surrounded by walls and overlooked by a castle. The Cathedral (built 1604–1825) is of marble, with vast dome. Near by is La Rotonda, the old cathedral (9th century), round, with dome and crypt. See chs. of S. Afra, S. Clemente, and S. Nazzaro e Celso, rich in pictures; Galleria Tosi (open 11–3), 13 rooms full of notable paintings; Biblioteca Quiriniana (open 11–3), 40,000 vols., and rare literary curiosities; Museo Patrio (11–3 daily), Roman relics, in a temple built by Vespasian, A.D. 72; 12th century Broletto and cam- panile; handsome Palazzo Comunale (1508), richly 308 SOLFERINO. — VERONA. carved; and famous Campo Santo, or cemetery. Lake of Garda, see page 301. # The rly, to Venice passes Desenzano, whence 4l. by carriage to Solferino, where a chapel contains bones of 7,000 soldiers slain in the battle (1859); runs along S. shore of Lake of Garda, with lovely views; through the fortress of Peschiera; to thriving Verona (Due Torri : Raineral Gran Parigi; Torre di Londra), on the edge of the Tyrol, on a rich plain (67,000 inhab.). First a Gaulish town, 350 B.C.; then a Roman fortress; capital of the Gothic empire; one of Charlemagne's chief towns; a republic; capital of the Scaligers; Venetian appanage for 300 years; Aus- trian garrison (1797–1866); and Italian city. There are 5 bridges over the rapid Adige. Verona is sur- rounded with formidable bastioned walls and detached castles, built by Austria and lately strengthened by Italy. Give a day to its wonderful memorials of Romans, Goths, Lombards, and Carlovingians; chs. of rare interest; and venerable palaces. The Cathedral is a stately 14th-century Gothic ch., with cloisters on red-marble columns. Huge pillars inside. Near by is the old 12th-century Baptistery; also, Bishop's Palace, with colossal statue in courtyard, and library. The Piazza delle Erbe, or fruit-market, is a remarkably picturesque square, once the forum of the Republic, sur- rounded with frescoed palaces, and containing a tall marble pillar where once stood the lion of Venice, the quaint Tribuna (or judgment-seat), the Municipio Tower (330 ft. high), and fountain with statue of Verona. The adjacent Piazza dei Signori, with impos. ing Municipio palace (1.183), picturesque court; La Loggia, or Palazzo del Consiglio (1500), with statues of Catullus, Cornelius Nepos, Pliny, Vitruvius, Maffei, all natives of Verona; and statue of Dante. Near the VERONA. - 309 Ch. of Sta. Maria Antica are the very curious and splen- did Gothic Tombs of the Scaliger family, who ruled Verona 1262–1389. S. Anastasia (1261) is an inter- esting Gothic ch., with noble interior. The Arena, on one side the Piazza Brà (the chief city square), is a well-preserved Roman amphitheatre, built by Diocletian or Trajan, and covered with earth and houses in the Middle Ages. The 72 arcades are leased to shop- keepers. It is oval, 1,584 ft. around and 106 ft. high, with 45 tiers, and can accommodate 95,000 spectators. The Porta de' Borsari, a triumphal arch built by the Emperor Gallienus (A.D. 265), is on the Corso Cavour. See also 2 arches of Roman bridge; an arch near old citadel; and the Arch of the Lions. S. Zenone, in N. W. quarter, founded by Pepin (who was buried there), is the finest mediaeval ch., with rich marble façade; very curious sculptures of Wheel of Fortune, etc.; portal (1178) resting on red-marble lions; doors with brazen reliefs; a grandiose interior, with alternate pillars and columns; tomb and statue of S. Zeno; and grand 12th-century cloisters. Near by, through cloisters of S. Bernardino, is Sanmicheli’s beautiful Capella dei Pellegrini. Sanmicheli also built the handsome Stuppa Gate (end of Corso), towards the Castle, now an arsenal, once the palace of the Scaligers. The so-called Tomb of Juliet is a red-marble sar- cophagus, much visited by young ladies. See S. Fermo Maggiore, rich 14th-century Gothic ch., with walnut ceiling. Palazzo Bevilacqua, façade by Sanmicheli- Accademia delle Belle Arte (11.), in imposing Palazzo . Pompei, with hundreds of fine old Veronese paintings, Roman antiques, etc. Giusti Garden (25 c.), with Cypresses 500 years old, and commanding views of the Alps and Apennines; Cemetery, surrounded by Doric colonnade; and the great Castello S. Pietro. . 310 RovePEDO. — MANTUA...—CREMONA. Excursion to Trent, very interesting, and thence down to Vicenza, by Roveredo (9,000 inhab.), where Dante lived in exile. Verona to Munich by the Bren- ; ner, 63%l., 47 l. 55 c., 22 l. 15 c. (see p. 265). º From Verona, you can visit Mantua (fares, 41.60 c., . 31. 20 c., 21.30 c.) and Modena (fares, lll. 85 c., 8 l., º 5#l.), passing Willafranca, where peace was made be- sº tween France and Austria in 1859. Mantua (Aquila d'Oro; Croce Verde) is a dull old fortress (30,000 inhab.), among lakes and marshes. Here Virgil (born 3 M. S. E.) lived, and Mantegna and Giulio Romano were born. See S. Andrea (1492), a vast ch. with many monuments and frescos, a marble façade, and a tall brick tower; spacious Cathedral; old Ducal Palace (1302), richly frescoed by Mantegna and Romano; Accademia Virgiliana, with museum of sculpture (grand view of Tyrolese Alps from square); and Palazzo del Te, a huge palace outside the Porta Pusterla, erected by Romano, and adorned with his greatest frescos. From Milan to Mantua direct, in 6 hrs. (fares, 181. 20c., 12# 1., 91. 20 c.), by Cremona (Sole d’Oro ; Italia), on the Po (30,000 inhab.), successively Gaul- ish, Roman, Gothic, Lombard, Austrian, and Italian, and famous for its violins, and now a dull town of wide streets and decaying palaces. See pictures in Public and Royal Palaces (9–3 daily); German-Lombard Cathedral, with rich façade and interior crowded with frescos; Torrazzo (1261–84), a tower 397 ft. high, with arcades to Cathedral; and nobles' palaces. Piacenza (Croce Bianca, San Marco) may be reached hence by diligence; or by rly, from Milan (71.80 c., 5% l., 31.90 c.; rly. from Milan to Bologna, 24 l.45 c., 17 l. 15 c., 12}l.). This town (35,000 inhab.) was founded by the Romans, B.C. 219. See 13th-century Palazzo del Comune, with fine arcades, Osgoods Pocket Guide S. 'sºacuse § VICENZA. — PADUA. 3.11 and equestrian statues of the Farnese princes; 12th- century Romanesque Cathedral, frescoed by Guercino and Caracci; S. Francesco (1278), and Romagnosi's statue ; S. Sisto (1499–1511), for which Raphael painted his noblest Madonna (now at Dresden); Palazzo Farmese, built by Vignola in 1558; Citadel (1547); and S. Antonino, quaint vestibule. Rapid tourists will hasten from Verona to Venice direct, passing through Vicenza (Hötel de la Ville ; Roma : Due Mori), a busy town of 27,000 inhab., sur- rounded with walls and moats, and richly adorned with buildings designed by the great Palladio, a native of Vicenza (1518–80), among which are Casa del Diavolo; Palazzo Prefeffizio, Teatro Olimpico (#1), etc. Also JBasilica, or Palazzo del Consiglio, grand open arcades around town-hall; Barbarano, Tiene, and Walmarano palaces; and Palazzo Chieregati, in which is Civic Museum (9–5 daily), with many paintings, etc. See Palazzo della Ragione, very rich Gothic; Great Tower (1446); palaces around Piazza de' Signori ; quaint old bridge, rivalling the Rialto; dull Gothic Cathedral; S. Corona, with priceless pictures; S. Lorenzo ; Berto- liana Library, with rare MSS. ; and Roman Berga Theatre. On Mt. Berici, pilgrimage-ch. of Madonna del Monte (1428), approached by arcade of 180 pillars (2,145 ft. long). 13; M. out is Willa Rotonda, Palladio's work, surrounded by Ionic colonnades. Padua (Stella d'Oro; Croce d’Oro ; Aquila d'Oro), between Vicenza and Venice, has 66,000 inhab., and stands on a rich plain, embowered in gardens. From a distance its domes and towers and old bastioned walls and bastions present a noble appearance; but within it appears almost deserted. Its foundation is attributed to Antenor, after the siege of Troy; and in the Augus- tan age it was the j city of North Italy. Alario 312 PADUA, and Attila both sacked it; and it was Venetian, 1402– 1797. In 14th century, Padua had more artists than any city (Giotto, Mantegna, etc.). The University, founded in 1238, was long the best in Europe, with 18–20,000 students. Galileo was a professor; Dante, Petrarch, and Tasso were students. It is still famous, and occupies a handsome old palace, with spacious arcades. On a promenade is a long line of statues (2 by Canova) of illustrious graduates, Savonarola, Giotto, etc. Il Santo, the vast Ch. of S. Antonio (1296–1475), 300 ft. long and 123 ft. high, is crowded with paintings, bronzes (by Donatello), and monuments *... Contarini), and has large cloisters. Taine calls it an Italian-Gothic building, decorated with Byzantine cupolas, in which round domes, noble Greek towers, little columns surmounted by ogival arcades, a façade borrowed from Roman basilicas, and notions copied from Venetian palaces mingle the ideas of several centu- ries and countries. In front, see Donatello's equestrian bronze statue of Gattamelata, a Venetian general; and on the S., Scuola del Santo, a hall with famous frescos by Titian. , S. Giustina (1549), a stately ch., often de- stroyed and rebuilt, with marble floor and rich choir- stalls. Nearby, see Botanic Garden (oldest in Europe); and huge old monastery (now a hospital.) The Arena Chapel (1303) is filled with very precious frescos by Giotto (visit at morning, 50 c.). Nearby, see Eremitani Ch. (1276–1306), with monuments, and a chapel frescoed by Mantegna; and Scuola del Carmine, a baptistery with Titian's frescos. See Cathedral baptistery (1260), frescoed in 1380; 11th-century Palazzo della Ragione, with immense hall, largest known single roof, and 400 frescos; Palazzo del Podestà and campanile; and Civic Museum, many paintings. Quiet old Padua may well be the object of a day's excursion from Venice. VENICE. 3.13 Arrive in Venice at night, if possible. The last stat. is Mestre, whence the rly. crosses the Lagoon on a vast viaduct, 2 M. long, on 222 arches (built 1841–45; cost $1,000,000). The passage by night seems a flight be- tween sea and sky. - Venice. Hotels — Grand Hôtel Royal Danieli, in Palazzo Ber- nardi; Europa, in Palazzo Giustiniani; Britannica; Vit- toria ; Grand; San Marco ; Italia ; Bauer; Luna ; Belle- vue; Pension Suisse ; D’Angleterre ; Sandwirth ; Vapore. Restaurants. – Quadri ; Bauer; San Marco. Cafés. — Florian ; Svizzero; Specchi; Quadri; Giardino Reale, – all on or near Piazza of St. Mark. Gondolas (one rower) for 1–6 persons, l l per trip, or per hr. (two rowers, double price); from steamers to Piazzetta, 40 c. Baggage, 15 c. each piece. Hotels have their own gondolas at rly. stats. and steamers. To call a gondola, cry out Poppe. Regular legal tariff for rowers, which should be demanded in case of at- tempted extortion. Venice is built on 117 islands in the Lagoon, with 150 canals and 400 stone bridges, and has 129,000 inhab., in maritime pursuits (commerce is increasing), and manufactures of books, mirrors, jewelry, brocades, laces, and glass (one factory is now 1,200 years old). It is 7 M. around, divided by the Grand Canal, shaped like an S, 2 M. long and 150–180 ft. wide. The La- goon is a shallow lake, 25 × 9 M. in area, connected with the Adriatic by 4 deep channels through long and narrow sandbanks (the Lido), faced with vast masonry bulwarks. The main channels (23 ft. deep) admit the largest vessels. The tide rises and falls † Venice. A small canal is called rio; a street, calle, or lista ; a square, campo, small square, campiello; blind alley, 314 THE PIAZZA DI SAN MARCO. corte ; quay, fondamento, or riva. An adequate view of Venice requires 8–10 days; the chief sights may be visited in 4 days. For sight-seeing, the city may be cut into 5 parts, – the region E. and S. of Grand Canal; the Grand Canal; region N. and W.; S. Gior- io and Giudecca; remoter islands. The Piazza di San Marco is a square, 576 ft. long and 185–270 ft. wide, paved with gray traclyte and white Istrian marble, surrounded by time-stained marble palaces and St. Mark’s Ch., and the picturesque centre of Venetian life, especially at evening, when the bands play, and the cafés are crowded by thousands. Flocks of fat pigeons fed here by the city at 2 P.M. daily for 700 years. The palaces enclosing 3 sides are the Procuratie Vecchie (N. side), built 15th century for home of the Procurators (who ranked next to the Doge), and now used for business; Procuratie Nuove (1584), on S. side, now the Royal Palace; and Nuova Fabbrica (W. side, built by Napoleon in 1810, and the home of Austrian viceroys until 1866), now connected with Royal Palace (handsome rooms; fee, 1 I.). The palace arcades are occupied by cafés and bric-à-brac shops. The vast isolated Gothic Campanile (always open), 322 ft. high, dates from 911, Easy ascent on inclined plane, and from top marvellous view of city, ‘Lagoon, Euganean Mts., Tyrolese peaks, and, across the Adriatic, the Istrian Alps. The Loggetta, at foot of Campanile, is a pretty vestibule, by Sansovino (1540), with bronze doors, statues, and reliefs. . . The Clock- Tower (1496), across the Piazza, at entrance of Mer- ceria, Venice's chief business street, has a huge bell, on which two bronze Vulcans strike the hours. The 3 lofty cedar flagstaffs between the towers used to bear the banners of Cyprus, Candia, and the Morea, king- doms tributary to Venice. VENICE. 315 The Cathedral of San Marco, on the E. side of the Piazza, is a magnificent piece of Venetian Byzantine architecture, built in 976–1071, in form of Greek cross, with 5 domes, 600 marble columns, and 46,000 sq. ft. of mosaics. Over the portal are 4 horses of gilded copper, of Roman workmanship, brought from Constantinople by Dandolo in 1204; carried to Paris, in 1797, as war trophies; and returned in 1815. Below and all around, and in the great entrance hall, and inside, are mosaics. 8 fine columns in vestibule; also, 3 red slabs com- memorating the reconciliation of Barbarossa and Pope Alexander III. (1177); and the porphyry sarcophagus of Daniele Manin, last President of Venice (1848). The interior — Gautier’s “a golden cavern, incrusted with precious stones, at once splendid and sombre, sº and mysterious ” — is 258 × 210 ft. in area, with slippery and uneven 11th-century marble pave- ment, colored-marble pulpits, marble statues (made in 1393) of Christ and the Apostles, Sansovino's bronze statues of the Evangelists, and sumptuous chapels. See high altar, with canopy of verde-antico, over tomb of St. Mark the Apostle; altar behind it, with 4 spiral alabaster columns, 2 of which belonged to Solomon's Temple; Treasury, with Doge Morosini's sword, St. Mark's throne, a bit of St. John's skull, piece of True Cross, etc.; Sacristy (mosaics and inlaid work) and Crypt, with 64 columns; Baptistery, with bronze font and tomb of Andrea Dandolo (1354); Zen Chapel, with magnificent tomb, altar, and statuary; Sansovino's ronze door, leading to Sacristy; etc. The Piazzetta is a small square, running from S. Marco to the Lagoon, on which stand 2 granite columns, brought from Syria in 1120, and supporting statues of St. Theodore and the Winged Lion of St. Mark. On one side is the finely sculptured Libreria Vecchia, built. 316 DOGES' PALACE. — ARSENAL. by Sansovino in 1582, and now part of Royal Palace. The great hall was frescoed by Veronese, for which Venice gave him a gold collar. Alongside is the old Mint, back of which is the Royal Garden. Opposite is the Doges' Palace, with façade 246 ft. long, and façade of 234 ft. toward the sea. It was built in 800, and 5 times destroyed and re-erected. . Most of present palace dates from 1350. The red and white marbles, Oriental designs, and Venetians.Gothic arches, combine very richly. 36 columns in lower arcade, and 71 above, in the rich Loggia, with quaint capitals. Ascend San- sovino's Giants' Staircase, between colossal statues of Mars and Neptune, where the doges were crowned; and observe beautiful court, with statues, cisterns, and part of Silvio Pellico’s cell. Inside, see Sansovino's Golden Staircase; Hall of Great Council, 165 × 84 ft., with portraits of 76 doges, 21 vast old historical pic- tures, and Tintoretto’s “Paradise; ” Sala del Scrutinio, 39 doges’ portraits, and many paintings; Library, with famous MSS.; Archaeological Museum, 5 rooms of ancient marble sculptures; Sala della Bussola ; Hall of Council of Ten ; and many others, crowded with paintings, and rich in historical associations. Obliging guardians in all rooms, with plans, etc. The Molo, headquarters of gondoliers, is connected with the busy quay of the Ripa dei Schiavoni by a bridge, whence good view of Bridge of Sighs, leading from the Palace to the Prison (1512–97), and made famous by Byron (Ruskin blames his “ignorant senti- mentalism *). You may visit the Pozzi, low dungeons where state-prisoners were deprived of light and (almost) of air; and see where the political executions occurred, and bodies were given to the gondoliers. . In the Arsenal (open 10–4), founded 1104, were built the fleets of the Crusaders. 16,000 men were once em- VENICE, 317 º j here (now 2,000). At portal, 4 marble lions, rought from Greece in 1697, one of which is said to have stood on Marathon. See military museum, Bu- centaur, rare weapons, Henri IV.'s armor, Attila's helmet, etc. Take gondola and visit chs. E. and N. of Grand Canal. People help you ashore at landings, and expect a penny. The great Italian-Gothic Ch. of Santi Gio- vanni e Paolo is the Venetian Pantheon, filled with imposing mausoleums of doges, statesmen, and warriors (see those of Mocenigo, Bragadino, the Waliers, Wen- dramin, and Giustiniani), and valuable old pictures and statues. In S. transept is a window of stained glass (1473), which is rare in Venice. The ch. was founded in 1240; and the funerals of the doges always took place here. On adjacent square, see ancient equestrian statue of Colleoni, a Venetian general. 3. is the richly carved Scuola di S. Marco (1485), once head- quarters of a charitable society, now"part of vast hospi- tal. To S. Zaccaria (1457), a Romanesque ch., with paintings by Bellini, the doges used to go in solemn procession at beginning of Lent. S. Stefano, where Luther once said Mass, is 14th-century Gothic, with many statues and a beautiful cloister adjacent. See, in S. Maria del Orto (1481), splendid Tintorettos; S. Salvatore (1534), remarkable pictures; S. Maria dei Miracoli (1480), a Byzantine Renaissance ch., encased in marble, with rich vaulting ; Gli Scalzi (1649), mag- nificent ch. of Carmelites, &erladen with decorations of the Decadence; S. Francestº della Vigna (1534), rich carvings and chapels of nobles; S. Pietro di Castello, Venice's cathedral from 1596 to 1807, with a fine cam- panile. A second trip may include the chs. S. and W. of the Grand Canal: S. Maria della Salute (1631), whose high dome is conspicuous in pictures of Venice, 3.18 FRARI. – GRAND CANAL. a sumptuous ch., with many statues and paintings, adjoining Patriarchal Seminary (with rich library and pictures); S. Sebastiano (1506), with tomb (see Latin epitaph) of Paul Veronese, and several of his paintings, and organ designed by him ; S. Pantaleone (1668), very ancient paintings; S. Giovanni Elemosinario (1527), near Rialto; S. Giacometto (820), a venerable basilica. The vast Italian-Gothic Frari, or Franciscan ch. (1250), contains many famous works of art, costly modern monument of gray marble to Titian, tombs of Canova (designed by himself) and of several doges and generals. In monastery adjacent 300 rooms contain 14,000,000 documents, some dating from 883. S. Rocco (1490, rebuilt 1725) has fine paintings. Alongside is the splen- did Renaissance Scuola di S. Rocco (1415–1550), crowd- ed with pictures by Tintoretto (now sombre in tone), and with beautiful façade, staircase, and great halls. This council-hall of charity is grouped with the Pisan Campo Santo and the Sistine Chapel, by art-lovers. The Grand Canal should be traversed by gondola, between its lines of famous palaces. On the l., see Dogana (Custom-House), with statue of Fortuna on tower; r., Palazzi Giustiniani (Hôtel Europa) and Emo-Trèves (with Canova's Hector and Ajax; fee, 1.1.). On the 1., Patriarchal Seminary and S. Maria della Salute. Thence the canal passes between palaces Tiepolo (Hôtel Barbesi), Contarini, Ferro, Fini-Wimp- ffen, Corner della Cà Grande, and Barbaro, on the r., and Dario-Angarani, Weſſºr, Da Mula, and Zichy- Esterhazy, on the 1., and ºthen between Count Cham- bord’s splendid Palazzo Cavalli (r.) and the vast Palazzo Manzoni-Angarini (l), and under an iron bridge. Close to this, on l., is the Accademia delle Belle Arti (daily, 9–4; 50 c.; buy cataloguc), with 700 ſine pictures, mainly by Venetian masters, Titian, Bellini, VENICE. 319 sº Giorgione, Palma, etc., with some modern works, and many drawings by Raphael and Angelo, in noble old monastic halls. This is one of the great sights of * Venice. Beyond (l), see Palazzi Contarini, Rezzonico, Giustiniani, Foscari (here the canal bends), Balbi, Pisani, etc., and on r., Palazzi Grassi, Moro-Lin, Con- tarini, and Mocenigo, the latter a triple palace, in which Byron wrote parts of Don Juan, etc. (1818), and where now is an art-collection. Farther on (r.), see Palazzi Cavalli (German consulate), Grimani (Post-Office), Farsetti (town-hall), 12th-century Loredan (once home of King of Cyprus), Dandolo (Gothic), Bembo, and Manin (now National Bank). Then, half-way through the canal, comes the famous Rialto, a bridge of one Istrian-marble arch (1588– 91), covered with shops, and running from the fruit- market to the fish-market. Below (l.), see Renaissance Palazzo de' Camerlenghi (1525), opposite ponderous Fondaco de' Tedeschi, built 1506 (frescoed by Titian) for a German warehouse. Beyond Rialto, Peschiera (fish- market), on 1. ; Palazzi Michieli and Sagredo, on r.; Palazzo Corner della Regina (now pawn-office), on site of Catharine Cornaro's home (l.). Nearly opposite is the C& d’Oro, Ruskin’s favorite, and a very noble palace. The Palazzi Fontana and Grimani are beyond (r.); also, Palazzo Pesaro (l.), whose rich halls are open daily (1.1.). Nearly opposite each other, see Palazzo ſendramin Calerghi, the magnificent modern palace of Count de Chambord (open daily, ll), and the Fondaco de' Turchi, once headquarters of Turkish merchants (here see Corner Museum, open Wed, and Sat., 12–4, With MSS. and paintings about Venetian history). At the Palazzo Labia the Cannaregio diverges to the r. ... It contains the Palazzo Manfrin, with large picture- gallery (open 10–3, #1.). Beyond iron bridge and ry. 320 S. LAZZARO. — MURANO. stat., the Grand Canal enters the Lagoon, by the island of S. Chiara. Near the stat, are the famous Papado- poli and Botanical gardens. The theatres are the Fenice, seating 3,000 people, Apollo, Rossini, San Sam- weli, and Malibran. See Tintoretto's house, in the Campo dei Mori; and Titian's house, in the Sanciano. Just S. of the city are the islands of La Giudecca, with Palladio's Redentore ch. (Franciscan); and S. Giorgio Maggiore, with a great Benedictine monastery, cruci- form ch. by Palladio, full of art-treasures, and cam- panile which gives superb view. Rather shabby Public Gardens, S. E. part of city. 2 M. S. E. is the island of S. Lazzaro, with great Armenian monastery. The islands were first colonized by fugitives from the mainland towns, ravaged by Attila. In 697 the first doge was chosen; and in 819 the present site of Venice became a capital. During the Crusades the republic grew rapidly, and conquered the coasts and islands of the Adriatic and Levant. For 300 years its ower was vast, and Venice was Europe's chief port. n 1508 its star began to wane. By 1718 it was quite decadent. In 1797 the French captured the city, which was afterwards annexed to Austria. In 1866 it became Italian. Eaccursions.— To the Lido (; hr. by gondola; 60 c. to go and return; steamer in 12 min., 30 c.), the beach on the Adriatic, with fine baths (La Favorita, 1 l) and summer-hotels. – To Malamocco, at S. end of Lido; and Chioggia (steamer, 13–21.), 30 M. S., an ancient lagoon-town (27,000 inhab.). — To the Cemetery, on 2 islands to the N., with S. Michele ch. (1466). Funeral processions of gondolas very interesting. — To Murano (4,000 inhab.), l; M. N., with famous glass and mosaic factories, museum of old glass (40 c.), a magnificent Cathedral (1111), and Ch. of S. Pietro e Paolo (1509), FERRARA. 321 a noble and simple basilica. The Murano school of art preceded that of Venice. — To Torcello, 6 M. N. E. (2 hrs. by gondola), once rich and great, now poor and depopulated, but with a wonderful 7th-century Cathe- dral, famous for grand mosaics; an octagonal Baptis- tery (1008); and S. Fosca, a strange 12th-century Byzantine ch., surrounded by arcades. Steamers, Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at midnight for Trieste. (7 hrs. ; fares, 9 ſl., 6 fl. 60 kr.). Rly, Venice to Trieste, 7# hrs, (fares, 30l. 55 c., 221. 40 c.). Ferrara, Bologna, Modena, and Parma. It is 101 M. (fares, 19 1.45 c., 14 l. 5 c., 10 l.) from Venice through venerable Padua; Rovigo (Cappa d'Oro; Cappello d’Oro), with its vast palace and pic- ture-gallery; and Ferrara, to Bologna. Ferrara (Europa, Stella d'Oro; Tre Corone), in a miasmatic plain near the Po, has shrunk from 100,000 to 27,000 inhab., and has many wide empty streets and crumbling palaces. In the golden era of the House of Este (1300–1600) it was famous for art and letters, and Ariosto and Tasso lived at its court. See Lombardic Cathedral (1135), imposing façade, many pictures, and handsome campanile (1550); S. Benedetto, with paint- ing of Paradise, in which Ariosto had his portrait in- troduced; S. Francesco, several domes; S. Maria in Kado, very ancient; S. Paolo; monuments to Ariosto and Savonarola; houses of Ariosto and Guarini; Uni- versity, with library of 100,000 vols. (MSS. of Pastor Fido, and parts of Gerusalemme and Orlando Furioso), museum, and tomb of Ariosto; St. Anna’s Hospital, where Tasso was imprisoned 7 years in a cell, since visited by Byron, Lamartine, and Goethe; and Pa- lazzo de' Diamanti (1493–1567), with the Civic Picture- 21 - - 322 BOLOGNA, Gallery (open, 9–3 free), 8 rooms filled with ancient aintings. The Castle is a huge old square fortress, in the centre of Ferrara, with 4 towers, deep moats, and frescoed halls. It is the scene of Byron’s tragic Parisima. Bologna (Hötel Brun, Bologna ; Pellegrino; De France), capital of Romagna (115,000 inhab.), stands on a rich plain near the Apennines, and is surrounded by a brick wall, 3–4 M. around, with 12 gates. An Etruscan town; conquered by Gauls; allied with Carthage; occupied by Rome, B.C. 190; then Greek, Lombard, Frank; a free town under Charlemagne; anti-imperial (Guelph); annexed to States of the Church in 1512, and to Italy in 1859. Its splendid Roman temples, theatres, and baths were swept away by the barbarians. It was the seat of the art-school of the Caracci; and the home of Francia, Albano, Domenichino, Guido Reni, and Guercino (see houses of last two ; and of Rossini, the composer, a native of Bologna). S. Petronio (1390) is a vast Tuscan-Gothic ch. (half finished), 384 ft. long, 156 ft. wide, with many rich chapels, mural paintings, and sculptures. Façade has many sculptures (made 1394–1525) of biblical sub- jects. Michael Angelo's statue of Pope Julius II. was broken in pieces by the people (1511). Charles W. was crowned Emperor here (1530). S. Domenico contains splendid tomb of St. Dominic, with sculptures by Michael Angelo; and tombs of Guido Reni and Elisabetta Sirani. The University is in Palazzo Cellesi, with 400 students; library of 150,000 vols. (open 9–3), once conducted by Mezzofanti; large museums of geology, antiquities, etc. . It dates from 1119, and once had 10,000 students, and several female rofessors. The Academy of Fine Arts (open 9–3.30; l.), is one of the most famous in Italy, and has Raphael's St. Cecilia. BOLOGNA. 323 See, in S. Bartolommeo, horrible portrayal of martyr- dom of St. Bartholomew; S. Cecilia (1481), frescos by Francia, and nunnery of St. Catherine Vigri; S. Stéfano, a group of 7 chs., with rare old Celestine clois- ter; S. Giovanni in Monte (A.D. 433), precious paintings; S. Witale (A.D. 428), lately restored; and other very no- table and ancient clis. Also, Palazzo Publico (1290), ancient frescos, statues, chapel, and Bramante's stair- case; Palazzo del Podestà (1201), where King Enzio, son of the Emperor, was imprisoned many years; Oplo- teca, museum of weapons; leaning towers of Asinelli (1109; 272 ft. high; grand view of mts.) and Gari- senda (1110; mentioned in Dante's Inferno); Archi- ginnasio (1572), town library (open 10–4), museum of antiquities, Galvani's anatomical lecture-room; Palazzo Bentivoglio, 16th century, on site of old Castle; Pa- lazzo Fava, and Collegio di Spagna (1364), frescos by Caracci; Loggia de' Mercanti (1294), venerable Gothic exchange; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, and S. Domenico, fountain and statues; Palazzo Pepoli (1344), vast and imposing; Palazzo Zampieri, with great picture-gallery (; l.); and many other palaces. La Montagnola is a plateau and public garden, with views of Bologna and the Apemmines. # M. S. is S. Michele in Bosco, a royal château occupying convent founded by St. Basil in 4th century, in whose ch. and cloisters Guido and the Caracci left noble paintings. 2; M. S. W. is the Madonna di S. Luca, a pilgrimage- ch, on strongly fortified hill, approached by arcade 1 M. long (635 arches; 100 years in building), and viewing Apennines and Adriatic. It contains portrait of the irgin, ascribed to St. Luke; brought from Constanti- nople in 1160. On the way hither, visit La Certosa, a Carthusian monastery (1335), whose cloisters now contain very interesting Campo Santo (cemetery), with 324 MODENA. — PARMA. rich monuments, a statue-adorned rotunda, and a colos- sal lion commemorating the martyrs for liberty. If you intend going S. to Rome, and thence N. along the Mediterranean, it is well to make a side-trip from Bologna to Modena (23 M.) and Parma (54. M.). Modena (Albergo Reale ; S. Marco), an ancient ducal capital (56,000 inhab.), was once an important Roman town, where Antony besieged Brutus (B.C. 43), on the Via Emilia, from Rome to the N. A stately city, surrounded with ramparts, on which are prome- nades. See Cathedral (1099–1184), with Arthurian sculptures (1100), rose-window, monumental tombs, and lofty colonnaded crypt; renowned Campanile, called La Ghirlandina (1224–1319), 335 ft. high, en- cased in white marble, with wooden bucket taken from the Bolognese in 1325 (Tassoni, who wrote a poem about it, has a statue near by); S. Michele, in which Muratori is buried; Begarelli’s Pietà, which Michael Angelo praised; Public Gardens; and ramparts, with views of Apennines. The vast and magnificent Palazzo Reale (formerly Ducal Palace) has noble façade on Piazza Reale, and a courtyard surrounded by colon- nades. See Library, 120,000 vols. and 3,000 MSS. (14th-century edition of Dante); cabinets of medals and gems, and archives; large gallery of pictures (open 9–3), many of which are copies, a fact which the cata- logue omits to state. * Parma (La Posta ; Concordia; Italia) was founded by the Etruscans; became Roman, B.C. 183; was Lombardic, a city of Charlemagne, of the Holy See, a Guelphic stronghold; seat of the Farnese princes, 1545–1781; and capital of Duchy from 1815 until 1859, when it fell to Italy (42,000 inhab.). The Roman Via Emilia cuts through its centre; and dreary, silent streets diverge on both sides. Parma is sur- REGGIO. — RAVENNA. 325 rounded by great walls, with 5 gates and a strong citadel. See handsome Romanesque Cathedral (1117), with notable crypt, rich monuments, and Correggio's vast and world-renowned fresco of The Assumption; | Baptistery (1196–1270), octagonal marble ch., with | colonnades, quaint carvings, old frescos; S. Giovanni Evangelista (1510), remarkable frescos by Correggio in dome and cloisters; Madonna della Steccata (1521), fine frescos, and tombs of notables; Convent of S. Paolo (50 c.), with Correggio's famous lunettes and | Diana; Farnese Theatre (50 c.); Stradone, promenade | near citadel; and Public Garden, with an old Farnese | château, richly frescoed. The Ducal Palace (Farnese), founded 1597, has museums of antiquities and pictures (open 9–4; ll), with many famous works of Correggio and the Caracci, including Correggio’s Scala and Sco- | della Madonnas and St. Jerome (Il Giorno). The Library has 206,000 vols., and many Oriental MSS. Picturesque | old road from Parma to La Spezia, on Gulf of Genoa. Reggio (Posta), between Parma and Modena, (50,000 inhab.), with notable walls, citadel, theatre, and cathedral, fine chs., and Ariosto's birthplace, is 9 | M. from Correggio, the great artist’s birthplace; and 4 hrs. drive from ruins of Canossa, where Henry IV. of Germany performed penance before Pope Gregory | WII. (1077). £ Ravenna, Rimini, Ancona, Brindisi, and Taranto. From Bologna it is 52+ M. (9%l., 6.1. 10 c., 41. 30 c.) to Ravenna (Europa Spada d'Oro), a Thes- Salian colony, once capital of Roman empire; captured by Odoacer and Theodoric; capital of the Gothic kings, 493–552; thence for 200 years capital of Exarchs, or 326 RAVENNA. —DANTE's TOMB. ſº sent by Greek emperors; taken by Lom- ards, and by Pepin of France, who gave it to the Pope; Venetian garrison, 1440–1509; and attached to States of the Church, 1509–1860. It is now a dreamy town of 58,000 inhab., very rich in early Christian art; and 5 M. from the Adriatic, of which it was once a chief port. Dante's Tomb (1482), a dome-covered structure, with carvings, contains the ashes (discovered in 1865 in ch. of S. Francesco) of the poet, who - died here, in cxile and under excommunication, in 1321. Byron lived at Ravenna 2 years, and wrote several great poems. See Casa Polentani, where Dante re- ceived; in Piazza Vittoria Emanuele, tall columns with statues, erected by the Venetians in 1494, and colon- made of old basilica; Cathedral, on site of 4th-century ch., with 8th-century minaret-like campanile, 6th-cen- tury tombs, and silver crucifix, and paintings by Guido; 4th-century octagonal Baptistery, with 5th-century font and mosaics (Baptism of Christ, etc.); Archiepisco- pal Palace, 5th-century chapel, 25,000 parchments in archives; S. Apollinare, built in 500 by Theodoric for the Arians, and given by Justinian to the Catholics, with round campanile, 24 columns from Constantinople, and many 6th-century mosaics; S. Vitale, consecrated in 547 by St. Maximian, copied from S. Sophia, at Constantinople, octagonal, with massive pillars, many beautiful and brilliant mosaics of Justinian’s time, Greek and Roman reliefs, and a dome of earthen vases bound together; Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, built 440 by Empress Galla Placidia, small domed cruciform ch., with mosaics, and sarcophagi of Honorius and Constantius III. (the only Roman emperors whose tombs remain uniº), Academy of Fine Arts (75 c.), pictures by Ravennese masters, vases, bronzes; Library (open 9–2) of 50,000 vols., and many rare RIMINI. — SAN MARINO. 327 | MSS., in old Monastery of Classe, which has frescoed | refectory; S. Niccolo (760), now deserted; S. Gio- vanni Evangelista (444), near rly. stat., 24 antique col- umns, and frescos by Giotto ; remains of Palace of | Theodoric ; and many other old chs. and great palaces. I Outside the Porta Serrata is the tomb of Theodoric the Great (530), a ponderous structure (now a ch.) covered with a block of Istrian stone 36 ft. in diameter. | S. Maria in Porta Fuori, 2% M. out, is an open-roofed basilica (1096). S. Apollinare in Classe (A.D. 534), 3 M. out, is a magnificent basilica, with 24 cipolline | columns, open roof, 6th-century mosaics, a noble altar, and portraits of 126 bishops of Ravenna, from St. Apollinaris (martyred A.D. 74) to the present. Beyond is La Pineta, the famous and venerable pine-forest, known to the Romans, praised by Byron, Boccaccio, Dante, etc., and covering many leagues. Highway along coast to Rimini, 31 M. The rly. S. E. from Bologna traverses Imola ; Castel Bolognese ; Faenza (Corona ; Leone d'Oro), a walled town of 20,000 inhab., with great citadel, and potteries (whence Faience); Forlì (17,000 inhab.), at foot of Apennines, with fine cathedral and castle; Cesena, with handsome palaces and rare library; Rimini (Tre Re; Aquila d'Oro), a pretty city (33,000 inhab.) and sum- mer-resort on the Adriatic, with magnificent classical cathedral, dilapidated Malatesta Palace, Roman tri- umphal arch and bridge, and house of Francesca da | Rimini (25 l. for carriage thence, 15 M., to San Marino, | Capital of Republic of same name, the oldest govern- ment in Europe). The rly. follows the Adriatic to Fesaro, birthplace of Rossini, where there are fine Chs, a rich library, and the old Palace of Dukes of Urbino, once a brilliant literary centre. Here Tasso wrote the Amadis. Diligence in 6 hrs. (21+ M) to rºw-see-war”-ºn- 328 ANCONA. — PISTOJA. Urbino (Italia), a town of 16,000 inhab., surrounded by sombre mts. Raphael’s birthplace is shown; also, grand Renaissance Ducal Palace, and chs. rich in art. Ancona (La Pace ; Wittoria) is built on an amphi- theatrical hillside facing the Adriatic, and has 46,000 inhab., with high-placed semi-Oriental cathedral (col- umns from the Temple of Venus), colossal statue of Cavour, handsome palaces, and (on the Mola) tri- umphal arch reared by the Roman Senate, A.D. 112, to Trajan, and another in honor of Pope Clement XII. 11–14 hrs. distant by rly. (621. 80 c., 44 l., 311. 40 c.) is Brindisi (Hôtel des Indes Orientales; Europa; D'Angleterre), once an important Roman naval station, and now the chief point of departure for the East Indies, on the mail-route from England to India. It is growing rapidly (14,000 inhab.), and is visited by steamers for Adriatic, Greek, Italian, and Levantine ports (3 days to Alexandria). Here the Appian Way ended; and here Virgil died. 52; M. hence by rly. (101. 60 c., 61.70 c., 41.80 c.) to Otranto, a port on the heel of the Italian boot. Branch rly. from Bari to Taranto (Roma; Del Moro), with richly decorated Cathedral and strong castle. Ancona to Rome by rly., 183 M. (35 l., 241. 70 c.). Few tourists will go S. of Ravenna on this coast. Bologna to Florence, in 82 M. (5–6 hrs. ; fares, 14 l. 20c., 101.45 c., 7 l. 55 c.), by remarkably pictu- resque rly. across the Apennines, with many very costly bridges, tunnels, galleries, and viaducts, and down to the rich Tuscan plains (superb views). Pistoja (Globo; Del Popolo) is an ancient town of 13,000 inhab., at foot of Apennines, rich in 13th- and 14th-century sculptures, and a favorite summer-resort for Florentines. Pistols are named from this town. Catiline was defeated and killed near by. See, in 12th-century Cathedral, monu- ..ſº FLORENCE. 329 ments, choir-stalls, and silver altar; Campanile, once a fortified tower; Italian-Gothic Baptistery, of black and white marble; S. Andrea, splendid pulpit (1298–1301) and carved architrave; several other rich chs. and massive old palaces; and suburban Villa Puccini, in beautiful gardens. … Pistoja to Pisa, 40; M. (61. 60 c., 5 l. 35 c., 4}l.); to Florence, 21} M.; 45 min, Florence. Hotels.-Grand Hötel Royal ; De la Paia: ; De la Ville, Italia; New York; Grande Bretagne ; Arno ; Washington ; De Russie; Universo; Vittoria ; Corona d’Italia; Anglo- American ; Pension de Londres ; Du Nord; Leone Bianco; Cavour; Minerva ; Città di Milano. º Fares from London to Florence direct, £9 5 s. 6d., £ 13 s. 3 d. Omnibus-fares to hotels, 1–1% l. ; carriages, 1 1. ; trunks, 50 c.; valises, 25 c. Theatres.— Grand Opera; Della Pergola ; Niccolini; Politeama, fine summer-theatre. Consulates.—American, Borgognissanti, No. 17; Brit- ish, Via Tornabuoni, No. 14. - Florentia was founded by the Romans, before Christ; ravaged by the barbarians; rose to great commercial importance by 1100; suffered from centuries of civil conflicts and foreign wars; ruled by the Medici family, 1434–1737; by dukes of the house of Lorraine, 1737 -1860; and was capital of Italy, 1864–70. Since 1870 it has fallen into decay and financial embarrassment, but is a favorite winter-resort, by reason of its vast art-treasures, natural beauty, and cheapness of living. It stands on a narrow plain, partly surrounded by the Apennines and their foot-hills, and cut in two by the river Arno, which is nearly dry in summer. There are 167,000 inhab. 330 PALAZZO WECCHIO. — UFFIZI GALLERY. The Piazza della Signoria, the central square, forum of the Republic, and present business-centre, is adorned by bronze equestrian statue of Cosmo, marble lion, and Neptune Fountain, erected in 1564–75, on site of Savonarola’s martyrdom. Here fronts the Palazzo Vecchio (built 1298), once capital of Re- public and palace of Cosmo I., and now town-hall, - a tall, massive, and formidable fortress-palace. Enter (by Bandinelli’s statues of Hercules .." Cacus) the court- yard, with Michelozzi's dainty, arabesques, Vasari’s fountain, Verocchio's statue of a boy. The Hall of the Great Council was built in 1495, at Savonarola's order. Italian Parliament sat here, 1865–70. Wasari and oth- ers made many of the frescos; and two very famous cartoons were drawn by Leonardo and Angelo, for this hall. See Hall of the Two Hundred, used by town- council; Hall of the Lilies, with rich marble work; and Medici apartments. Campanile built by Arnolfo del Cambio, 308 ft. high (450 steps), gives a grand view. Its bell was the rallying-sound in the civil wars. In front is the Loggia dei Lanzi, a very graceful arcade built in 1376 for Cosmo's guards of lancers; later, a tribune whence the people were harangued; and now containing celebrated statues, – Benvenuto Cellini’s “Perseus,” Donatello’s “Judith,” Giovanni da Bo- logna's “Hercules,” etc. . Alongside Palazzo Vecchio, see Palazzo Uguccione, planned by Raphael; opposite which is new Palazzo Fenzi, in Early Florentine style. Between Vecchio and Loggia, enter Portico degli Uffizi, built by Vasari, 1560–74, with marble statues of 24 famous Tuscans. On r., entranges to Mint and Post- Office; on 1., to the world-renowned Uffizi Gallery (open 9–3, Mon. 12–3, 11. ; festivals, 10–3, free; catalogues, 3% l.), the vast art-collections made by the Medici and Lorraine dynasties. See Wiobe FLORENCE. - 331 Hall, antique statues of Niobe and her children; hall of portraits of painters, made by themselves; Tribuna, with Venus de Medici, Wrestlers, Apollino, and many celebrated paintings; cabinets of gems, cameos, bronzes, and vases; vast collections of Flemish, German, Dutch, and Venetian pictures; and masterpieces of Raphael, Titian, Correggio, etc. The National Library (open 9–5) has 200,000 vols., 8,000 MSS., rare books, and the great Tuscan archives. The grand and massive Pitti Palace, S. of the Arno, was begun in 1440, on Brunelleschi’s plans, for the merchant Pitti, whose heirs sold it in 1559 to the Medici, who made it their home, and had Vasari join it to the Palazzo Vecchio by a corridor 1,800 ft. long (now filled with rare drawings by Italian masters). The Pitti is occasionally occupied by the king. Its front (121 ft. high) is of enormous blocks of stone, 20–25 ft. long. On the second floor is a gallery (open 9–3, Mon. 12–3, ll.) of 500 fine old pictures, in 13 magnificent saloons, richly frescoed, i adorned with tables and cabinets of marble, alabaster, malachite, and mosaic. Here are some of the best works of Raphael, Titian, etc. The Boboli Garden (open Thurs, and Sun., 12–6), back of the palace, was laid out in 1500, and its hill- terraces command noble views of Florence (especially from Belvedere). See amphitheatre, grotto, obelisk, Neptune's statue (by Giovannida Bologna), etc. Near the Pitti is the extensive and valuable Museum of | Physics, with Galileo's first telescopes, and one of his fingers; also rare botanical collections. º The Academy of Fine Arts (open 9–3, 11. ; Suns, and festivals free) contains schools of design, painting, architecture, music, mechanism, chemistry, etc., and a noble collection of old religious pictures showing the development of Tuscan art. The lower 332 NATIONAL MUSEUM. —CATHEDRAL. halls contain modern paintings. The courtis decorated with reliefs by Luca della Robbia. In second court is Michael Angelo's celebrated statue of David. Floren- time Mosaic-factory in same building (museum open daily). Close by, in cloisters of the Scalzo, fine frescos by Andrea del Sarto; also Medicean Casino, built 1570. In same square is Ch. of S. Marco (1290), with many pictures and statues, and tombs of Politian and Pico della Mirandola. Next door is the famous old Domini- can Monastery of S. Marco, now occupied by a museum (open 10–4, 11. ; free Sun. ; guide-book, }}} of choice works of old masters, great number of frescos by Fra Angelico, etc., in cloisters, cells, and refectory. See cell of Savonarola. Fra Angelico, Fra Bartolommeo, St. Antoninus, and Politian were monks here. The Accademia della Crusca, founded in 1582 to preserve the purity of the Italian language, is established here. The National Museum (open 10–4, l l ; Sun. free) has a hall of mediaeval bronzes, with Giovanni da Bologna's celebrated “Mercury,” Donatello’s “David,” etc.; the great fresco of “The Last Supper,” attributed to Raphael; a collection of weapons; statuary by Angelo, Bandinelli, etc.; ancient furniture; faience; celebrated frescos by Giotto, in old chapel; rich terra- cottas; stained glass, etc. It is in the Palazzo del Podestà, or Il Bargello, built 1256 for the Florentine chief magistrate; fortified 1317; and often assailed by the populace. The curfew was sounded from the cam- panile. The prisons and torture-rooms were here. See picturesque court. The Cathedral of Sta. Maria del Fiore (so called from the lily in the arms of Florence), one of the grand- est Gothic chs. of Europe, was built 1294–1474, by Arnolfo, Giotto, Gaddi, and Orcagna, on site of older ch. of S. Reparata, and is 556% ft. long, and 342 ft. FLORENCE. 333 wide (at transepts), with walls of beautiful white and colored marbles. The nave is 154 ft. high. Beautiful orch on Via Ricasoli, with pillars resting on backs of ions; and over the door statues by Donatello and Jacopo della Quercia. The interior is impressive, but sim º with huge pillars flanking the lofty nave, rich marble-mosaic pavement, and stained windows. See Jacopo della Quercia’s “Madonna,” Uccello's frescos, Gaddi’s mosaics, Angelo’s “Entombment; ” bronze doors, by Luca della Robbia; statues, portraits, and tombs of many celebrated Florentimes. It is a perfect treasure-house of art. The stained glass was designed by Ghiberti and Donatello, and made at Lubeck. The Dome, 352 ft. high, made by Brunelleschi (1421–36) is higher than that of St. Peter's, and may be ascended (463 steps; 57 more to the Cross; fee, ll.). Interest- ing details, and grand view. King Victor Emmanuel laid foundations of new main façade in 1860. In this ch. Giuliano de' Medici fell under the daggers of the Pazzi; the Greek Emperor offered to become Catholic; and Frederick II. of Germany knighted many of his fierce captains. See silver altar and sculptures, in Opera del Duomo. The Italian-Gothic Campanile, the most marvellous bell-tower in the world, is Giotto’s noblest work (1334–36). It is 292 ft. high, in 4 stories, of which the uppermost is superbly decorated, with delicate tracery around windows, and many statues and reliefs by Giotto, Donatello, and other masters. The tower is built of variegated marbles. Fee to ascend, 11. Noble view of Florence and Apennines (414 steps). Along- side is the famous ch. of the Misericordia, whose cowled brethren are often seen upon the streets; and opposite is the Canonry, with statues of Arnolfo and Brunelleschi. See Sasso di Dante, nearby, a stone on which Dante used to sit. 334 BAPTISTERY. The Baptistery of S. Giovanni (6th century), oppo. site the Cathedral, is an octagonal marble ch., 94 ft. in diameter, with dome. Until 1128 it was used as a cathedral. Here are Ghiberti's celebrated bronze doors (1408–52), with 10 Old-Testament scenes, and 28 from life of Christ and early Church history. Michael Angelo declared these worthy to be the gates of Paradise (see also George Eliot's Romola). At the sides are two porphyry columns, given by Pisa in 1200. Bronze door on S., scenes from life of St. John, made by Andrea Pisano (1408–30). Inside are many statues, dim old mosaics, Oriental-granite col- umns, and tomb of Pope John XXIII. SS. Annun- ziata (1250) contains Andrea del Sarto's best works, sumptuous chapels, and cloisters. S. Croce, built (1294–1442) by Arnolfo and Vasari, is an imposin cruciform basilica, with modern façade of black an white marbles (1863), high tower, and rich cloisters and refectory (many paintings). In this vast old Floren- tine Pantheon are the tombs of Galileo, Michael Angelo, Macchiavelli, Raphael Morghen, Lanzi, Cherubini, Ugo Foscolo, and other great men; and monuments to Dante and Alfieri. Rare treasures of art, including many frescos by Giotto. In front, see noble modern statue of Dante. S. Lorenzo, consecrated by St. Ambrose in 393, and rebuilt by the Medici in 1425, from Brunelleschi’s and Michael Angelo's plans, is a sumptuous Romanesque ch., resting on 14 tall Corinth- ian columns, and containing tomb of Cosmo, “Father of his People; ” and sculptures by Donatello, Brunelleschi, Michael Angelo, and Thorwaldsen. In new Sacristy are Angelo's Twilight, Dawn, Day, and Night, over the tombs of the Medici. The Chapel of the Princes (1604), erected by the Medici at a cost of $4,400,000, for their sepulchres, is a dome-covered octagon, lined FLORENCE. 335 with precious marbles, mosaics, and frescos. Adjacent, see Laurentian Library (open 9–3; #-ll.), founded 1444 by Cosmo, in building planned by Michael Angelo. Priceless old vols, and 8,000 MSS., many of them rare, by Dante, Alfieri, Petrarch, Boccaccio, and of Virgil, AEschylus, etc. S. Maria Novella (1278–1371) is a beautiful ch. of black and white marbles, with arcades, and attractive interior, on slender pillars. See Ghirlandajo's famous frescos, in choir; Brunelleschi’s crucifix, in Gondi Chapel; Cimabue's Madonna, borne in triumph by the Florentines from the studio to the ch. ; Orcagna's frescos, in Strozzi Chapel, and in Green Cloister; vast Giottesque frescos, in Spanish Chapel; and Great Cloisters, the largest in Florence. See, also, in S. Maria Maddalena, fresco by Perugino; La Badia, with ancient tombs and tall tower; Or San Michele, built in 1284 by Arnolfo for a corn-hall, and made a Gothic ch. in 1337–55, with many statues by the great masters, and altar by Orcagna (1359); S. Trinità (1250); Carmine (1422), with cloisters, and Masaccio's famous frescos (studied by Perugino, Raphael, An- gelo, and Leonardo). See, also, Marucellian library, 70,000 vols.; Riccardian library, containing oldest MS. in existence (Pliny); houses of Benvenuto Cel- lini, Dante, Ghiberti, Bianca Capello, Amerigo Ves- pucci, Galileo, Macchiavelli, Guicciardini, Andrea del Sarto; the great hospitals, decorated by the masters (especially Foundling Hospital, S. Maria Nuova); busy Mercato Nuovo, and interesting great Egyptian and Etruscan Museum (open 9–3; 11.), in refectory of old Convent of S. Onofrio, vases, reliefs, implements, etc., and fresco (1505) of “Last Supper; ” and house of Michael Angelo (Mon. and Thurs., 9–3), with great museum of works and relics of Angelo. There are scores of huge old palaces, mainly by m 336 LUNG” ARNO. illustrious architects. Among them, see Ridolfi (Ru- cellai), which was sacked by the people in 1527; Alfowiti, with marble portraits of famous Florentines; Corsini, very elegant, with large picture-gallery (open Tues., Fri, and Sat.); Strozzi, 3 vast façades, a very perfect and imposing palace, with picture-gallery (open); Ric- cardi (1434), original and stately home of the Medici (see chapel and courts); Fontebuoni, where Alfieri died; Spini, now municipal offices; Manelli (1565); Panciatichi, with picture-gallery; and Torrigiano, with large gallery (open daily) and famous gardens. The Arno is bordered by the handsome old quays of the Lung' Arno, on both sides, and crossed by the picturesque Ponte Vecchio (1362), covered with shops; elegant Ponte S. Trinità, built 1252; Ponte alla Car- raja (1218), often restored; Ponte alle Grazie (1235); and 2 suspension-bridges. The Via dei Calzajuoli, from cathedral to Uffizi, and Via Tornabuoni are the busiest streets. There are many picturesque squares, adorned with statues and fountains. Excursions.—The Cascine, a narrow park extend- ing 2 M. along the Arno, just W. of Florence, has favorite rambles and drives (military music, zoölogical garden, etc.). — Along the Viale dei Colle to Piazza Michael Angelo, a beautiful esplanade (dedicated 1875), with monument and bronze copies of Angelo's works. – S. Miniato is a beautiful ch. on far-viewing hill on E., in Pisan–Florentine architecture (1013), with rich façade, mosaics, 14 great marble columns, open roof, notable crypt, niello mosaic pavement (1207), and finely frescoed sacristy. Charming view of Florence. —Bello Sguardo, just S. W. of Florence, commands a famous view over city and mts. – The Poggio Im- periale, once a ducal villa, now a nuns’ school, is out- side and above the Porta Romana, reached by fine avenue of trees. Near by is the tower which was FIESOLE. — WALLOMBROSA. 337 Galileo's observatory; also, villa where he lived, 1631–42, and was visited by Milton. In adjacent villa, Guicciardini wrote the history of Italy. —La Certosa, 3 M. from Porta Romana, is a vast and fortress-like Carthusian monastery, built 1341, from Orcagna's plans. Fine paintings, monuments, etc., in ch., cloisters, and chapter-house (1.1.). — Monte Oli- veto, 1 M. from Porta S. Frediano, is a monastery (1334), whence grand views. – Villa San Donato (Demidoff), open Mon, and Fri. (51.). — Villa Ca- reggi, 2–3 M. N., once seat of Medici and Platonic Academy. Cosmo and Lorenzo died here. — Poggio a Cajano, royal villa, 12 M. N. W.; and Willa della Petraia, another royal residence. — Pratolino, former forest-palace of Medici. Fiesole, 3 M. N. of Florence, beyond convent where Fra Angelico dwelt, was an Etruscan city, and retains parts of vast walls. See also Cathedral (1028), and old palaces adjacent; Franciscan convent, on site of Acropolis; ancient theatre (50 c.); splendid abbey; and fascinating views of Val d’Arno. Vallombrosa, 18 M. distant, among the Apennines, may be visited in a day. Vast abbey, founded 1050, now a school of forestry. , 1 hr.’s climb hence to top of Pratomagno, 5,323 ft. high, with noble view to Medi- terranean. Excursion also to very picturesque Casen- tino region, and grand old abbeys of Camaldoli and Alvernia. - Arezzo, Orvieto, Perugia, Foligno, Siena. From Florence we would recommend you to go to Rome by the shortest route, through Arezzo, Orvieto, and Orte (195% M. ; fares, 33 1. 85 c., 231. 30 c., 16% l.; by express-trains, 881. 5 c.; 26 1. 40 c.). Fares by express from Florence to Arezzo, 54%. M., 10 l. 10 c., 7 l. 5 c. 22 338 AREZZO. — PERUGIA. Beautiful mt. scenery on the long ascent to Arezzo (Willona ; Reale ; Inghilterra), an ancient Etruscan city which became an ally of Rome, B.C. 310. Here Maecenas, Vasari, Petrarch, and other famous mem were born. It now has 38,000 inhab. See Italian- Gothic Cathedral (1177), with many pictures, tombs, etc. S. Maria della Pieve, remarkable façade; S. Fran- cesco, interesting frescos; Museum, majolicas, bronzes, antiques; Abbey of S. Fiora ; old palaces, chs., and statues. Cortona (Stella), another Etruscan town, has great Cathedral, Museum, vast Etruscan walls, and fortress (superb view). The rly. runs near Lake Thrasymene and the lovely Val di Chiana. Orvieto (Belle Arti ; Aquila Bianca : omnibus from stat., 11.) stands on a lofty volcanic rock; and has a magnificent Cathedral (1290–1600) of black and white marble, with nave 111 ft. high, crowded with mosaics, carvings, shrines, and frescos by Luca Signorelli and Fra An- gelico. The route hence to Rome leads by Monte Rotondo and Mentana, where Garibaldi was defeated in 1867. A longer ry. route to Rome leads from Cortona along Lake Thrasymene (30 × 8 M. in area; near by, Hannibal annihilated the Roman army, B.C. 217), to Perugia (Grand Hôtel ; Grande Bretagne ; Trasi- meno), once Etruscan, now capital of Umbria (19,000 inhab.), with 103 chs. and 50 monasteries, See great 15th-century Cathedral; S. Pietro de Casimense, 18 antique columns, choir-stalls designed by Raphael; S. Severo, with Raphael’s first fresco; S. Domenico, tomb of Pope Benedict XI. ; University (50 c.), founded 1320, with large gallery of Umbrian pictures, antiqui- ties, etc.; Arch of Augustus, an ancient city-gate; Perugino's house; Etruscan cemetery; and collections in several palaces. Superb views over Tiber valley and SIENA. 339 Apennines. Assisi, perched on a high hill, was the birthplace of St. Francis, and has vast Franciscan mon- astery (fee to monk, ll.), and its wonderful Gothic double ch, with frescos by Giotto and Cimabue, and other treasures. Foligno (13,000 inhab.) has 6 inter- esting chs. Within 50 years it has suffered 4 severe earthquakes. The rly. thence to Rome passes Trevi, Spoleſo, and Terni (beautiful falls here). A still longer route is from Florence to Siena (59 M.; fares, 10 l. 85 c., 7; l., 5 l. 30 c.), passing Certaldo, where Boccaccio died; and Poggibonsi (whence carriages to San Gimignano, with enormous walls, interesting chs., and many works of art. * Siena (Grand Hôtel ; Aquila Nera), a city of 23,000 º: 200,000) inhab., jºi for ancient school of evotional art, for pretty women, healthy climate, and purity of language. Sieges and wars innumerable have distressed it. See vast and superb 13th-century Cathe- dral, of red, white, and black marbles, abounding in sculptures and paintings, rose windows, choir-stalls, etc.; Library (1495), frescos by Pinturicchio and Ra- i. notable Campanile, Baptistery, and Pellegrinajo ospital; S. Domenico, S. Francesco, S. Bernardino, and other chs. ; Oratory of St. Catherine of Siena; Institute of Fine Arts (open 9–3), with valuable Sienese pictures, including Sodoma’s “Descent from the Cross; ” Pa- lazzo Publico (1293–1309), with many stately and richly furnished halls; Campanile, which Leonardo da Vinci admired; handsome Palazzo del Governo (1469), with 30,000 parchments, some dating from 814; Loggia di S. Paolo (1417); other palaces of noble period of archi- tecture; the Fonte Gaja and Fonte Branda ; La Lizza, the promenade; the University. Excursions to L’Os- &ervanza monastery and Belcaro castle. 340 ROME. Rome. Hotels. – Del Quirinale ; Costanzi ; De l'Europe ; De Londres ; Minerva ; De Russie ; D’Angleterre ; Di Roma ; Bristol; Molaro; D'Amerique; Anglo-Americano; New York ; D’Allemagne; Du Louvre; Continental ; De Paris; Stati Unit: ; Milan ; Centrale ; Italia. The first 9 are first- class. The others are very good, but less expensive. Permits to visit Vatican and many villas and palaces obtained from hotel-proprietor or guide, or from appointed officials. , Get Baedeker's Central Italy, compact and prac- tical, with good maps. Murray's Rome is very good reading, but bulky. Hachette's Rome et ses Environs is good. Rly., Paris to Rome, 42 hrs. (fares, 212 fr., 179 fr. 60 c.). Old travellers advise that mornings at Rome be given to the chs. and palaces, and afternoons to the classic ruins and fragments of the Imperial city. A visit to Rome is the most interesting experience in the course of a European tour. No adequate idea of the city can be gained in less than 10–12 days. If the traveller can give it but 7–8 days, he should devote the time equally between the classic remains and the great chs. and modern institu- tions. American Ch. of St. Paul, on Via Nazionale. Tradition ascribes the founding of Rome to Romulus and Remus, B.C. 753. It is probably much older. King Tarquin was expelled, B.C. 509; the republic lasted 480 years, con- quering the Etruscans, Samnites, Gauls, Lucanians, etc. B.C. 390 the Gauls took Rome. Then came wars with Carthage (B.C. 264—241, 219–202, and 149–146); conquest of Cor- sica (238), Sicily (241), Spain (B.C. 197–178), Greece (B.c. 214–205, 200–197, 172–168, and 146), Pergamus (129), Provence (118), and Gaul (58–50). B.C. 29, Augustus Caesar became emperor. 47 legions garrisoned the vast em- pire. Constantine (324–337 A.D.) made Christianity the State religion, but removed the capital of the empire to Con- stantinople. Rome was sacked by Alaric in 410, then by ROME. 341 Genseric, and finally by Odoacer (476), who annihilated the Roman empire. In 546 and 549 the Goth Totila took the city. Leo the Great (440–461) and Gregory the Great (590- 604) founded the papal power, which was solidified by Pepin (755) and Charlemagne (800). Rome, “the Eternal City,” the capital of Italy (250,000 inhab.), is on the river Tiber, 15%. M. from its mouth, and near the centre of the broad and desolate Campagna. The Tiber runs for 3 M. through Rome, with the low Watican and Janiculan Hills on the r., and on the l. the circle of the Pincian, Quirinal, Wiminal, Esquiline, Caelian, and Aventine Hills, surrounding the Palatine and Capitoline Hills (the last 7 are the famous “Seven Hills”). The space within the walls is about the same as in Aurelian’s time, but # of it is in gardens and ruins. As in the Augustan age, it is divided into 14 Rioni, or wards. The ecclesiastical population is 7,500. Many of the streets are narrow and unattractive; but the Corso, Via Babuino, Ripetta, and a few others are filled with splendid shops and animated crowds. There are 7 bridges over the Tiber. The river often overflows its banks, and makes lakes of the lower squares. The walls of Rome are of brick, 14 M. around, and 55 ft, high, and about 1600 years old, though restored by Theodoric, Belisarius, etc. There are 12 gates now open, and several closed. On N. is Porta del Popolo, built in 1561 by Vignola; next is Pinciana, closed in 1808; then Salara (closed), flanked by towers, where Alaric entered Rome; Pia, built from Angelo's designs in 1564, and breached by Italian batteries in 1870; Nomentana, closed since 1564; Tiburtina, long ago Sealed up; S. Lorenzo, built by Honorius, over the Tivoli road; the rly, gate; Porta Maggiore, part of Claudian Aqueduct (A.D. 52), made a gate by Aurelian, 342 AQUEDUCTS. — PIAZZA DEL POPOLO. and a fortress by the Colonnas, and commanding the Palestrina road; S. Giovanni, built in 1574, over Al- bano road; Asinaria (now closed), where Belisarius marched into Rome; Metronia, closed; Latina (closed 1808), over Via Latina, to Capua; S. Sebastiano, with towers and pinnacles, over Appian Way; S. Paolo, at foot of Aventine, over road to Ostia. On W. bank of Tiber, Porta Portese, close to river; S. Pancrazio, on Janiculan Hill, stormed by French troops in 1849, and ruined by their artillery; Cavalleggieri, close to St. Peter's, where the army of the Constable de Bourbon entered in 1527, and the French were repulsed in 1849; Fabbrica. º Angelica, over route to Monte Mario; and Castello (closed). The Aqueducts give a noble idea of Roman archi- tecture and bold conception, with their vast arcades running for leagues over the Campagna. The Aqua Marcia, built B.C. 146 and restored in 1869, brings the purest of water from the Sabine mts., 56 M. away. The Aqua Claudia (A.D. 50) leads from near Subiaco, 58; M. The Aqua Trajana leads from Bracciano, 35 M. . The Aqua %. built by Agrippa, for his, baths, leads from a spring 14 M. out on the Campagiia, and breaks out in the Fountain of Trevi. The Aqua Felice (built by Sixtus W., in 1585) leads from the Alban mts., 21 M. Rome is thus copiously supplied. The Piazza del Popolo, the focus at N. gate of Rome to which the great streets Babuino, Corso, and Ripetta converge, is adorned with an Egyptian obelisk (set up here in 1584), fountains, and statues. S. Maria del Popolo (1099), on haunted burial-place of Nero, has many prelates’ tombs, rich paintings, and a beau- tiful chapel by Raphael. 2 other high-domed chs. front on the Piazza. Hence ascend drives to the fa- vorite Roman park and promenade, on the Pinoian Hill ROME. 343 (once Lucullus's gardens), with statues and busts, trees and fountains, and grand views. The Villa Medici (1540) is now seat of French art-academy and collec- tions (open daily, except Sat.). The Villa Borghese, outside Porta del Popolo, is in lovely and popular gar- dens (open Tues., Thurs., Sat., and Sun. afternoons), with oak-groves, lawns, statues, Raphael’s villa, and a casino with 20 rooms devoted to sculptures (including Canova's Pauline Bonaparte) and paintings. The Villa Albani (open Tues., 11 till dark) is outside Salarian Gate, with hundreds of ancient sculptures, and a few paintings, and queer Italian gardens, with ro- mantic distant views. The Piazza di Spagna is surrounded by the hotels and shops of the foreign quarter, and contains Bernini's Barcaccia fountain; Pius IX.’s Column of the Immacu- late Conception (with 5 statues); the Palace of Spain (Spanish embassy); and the College of Propaganda Fide (1662). The famous Spanish Staircase ascends hence to SS. Trinità de' Monti (1495), a stately ch. with many paintings and charming music (by nuns). Obelisk on square in front. Near by is Casa Bartholdy (11.), with room richly frescoed by Overbeck, Cornelius, and Veit (story of Joseph). In S. Andrea della Valle, Zoéga, Schadow, and Angelica Kauffman are buried. Beyond is ancient and very large Fountain of Trevi, with statues and great basin. The Corso is over 1 M. long, on site of Via Fla- minia, from near Capitol to N. gate of Rome, and is the chief street, with many shops and cafés, and busy crowds. Leaving Piazza del Popolo, it passes Palazzo Rondanini, with unfinished Pietà by Michael Angelo; Goethe's house (No. 20); great Hospital of Incura- bles (founded 1338); Palazzo Minuzzi ; S. Carlo, the Lombard national ch. ; Palazzo Ruspoli (1586); S. ; 344 PALACES ON THE CORSO. Lorenzo in Lucina (in Piazza to r.), with tomb of N. Poussin; Palazzo Fiano; Palazzo Teodoli ; S. Sil- vestro in Capite (built 757–67), and English Ch. (1874) in side-street; old Palace of Knights of Malta ; Palazzo Torlonia; and Palazzo Chigi (1526), with val- uable art-collections and library. Here opens the handsome Piazza Colonna, with the Column of Mar- cus Aurelius, 95 ft. high, adorned with spiral reliefs of Aurelius's wars on the Danube. On one side see alace with fine Ionic columns from Etruscan Weii; eyond which is Piazza di Monte Cittorio, with Italian Parliament House, in palace built by Bernini. In front, note obelisk, brought by Augustus from Egypt. Other two sides of Piazza Colonna are formed by Pa- lazzi Piombino and Ferajuoli. Farther down Corso, on little square, is very handsome Palazzo Sciarra- Colonna, with a fine picture-gallery. Farther on, opposite Palazzo Simonetti, see ch. of S. Marcello (A.D. 499), with ancient paintings and Consalvi's tomb. Next comes (on r.) vast and splendid Palazzo Doria (open Tues, and Fri.; #1), with large arcaded courtyard, and gallery of 800 paintings (catalogues in each room), including works of Raphael, Claude, Titian, Poussin, etc. Opposite is Palazzo Salviati, back of which is Colonna Palace. Beyond the Palazzo Bonaparte (in which died the mother of Napoleon I.) is the Piazza di Venezia, at end of Corso, on which fronts the imposing castellated Palazzo di Venezia (1455), j. Pius IV. gave to Venice (now Austrian º Near by, see Palazzo Torlonia, famous for its works of art; S. Marco (A.D. 325; rebuilt in 833), with mosaics and paintings; and popular and gorgeous Jesuit Ch. of Gesù (1568–77), lined with costly mar- ble, with columns of lapis lazuli and gilded bronze, many statues, and tomb of St. Ignatius Loyola. Adja- cent is Jesuit monastery, with Loyola's cell, etc. ROME. 345 The Tomb of Augustus (; l.), where Augustus, Mar- cellus (see Virgil), and other emperors and princes were buried, afterwards became a fortress of the Colonnas, and a ring for bull-fights, and is now but partly preserved, near the Ripetta, or harbor for barges and steamers. The Palazzo Borghese (1590) is a huge and splendid palace, with arcaded courts, antique sculptures, and a very large picture-gallery (Mon., Wed., and Fri., 10–3; catalogues in each room), in which see Domenichino's Sibyl and Diana, Titian’s Sacred and Profane Love, Raphael’s Entombment, Madonna, and Caesar, Borgia, and Correggio's Danaë. 10 min. walk hence, by several palaces and chs., leads to St. Angelo Bridge. The house in which Raphael lived many years is No. 124, Via de' Coronari. The Quirinal Palace (1574–1605), on high and healthy ground, was a favorite summer-home of the popes until 1870, since which the King of Italy has occupied it. Pius VII. was imprisoned here in 1809 by Napoleon; and here he died in 1823. See frescos in Sala Regia ; Pauline Chapel, a fac-simile (in form) of the Sistine; Audience Hall; frescos by Raphael, Overbeck, etc.; and apartments of Napoleon, Emperor Francis I., and King Francis II. of Naples. In front is Piazza di Monte Cavallo, with obelisk, great granite fountain, and two famous colossal marble groups, the Horse-Tamers, formerly in Baths of Constantine. Near Quirinal stands Consultà Palace, now Government offices; Palazzo Rospigliosi (1603), with casino (Wed, and Sat. ; 9–3) full of priceless pictures, includ- ing Guido's Aurora; S., Silvestro ch., with Domeni- chino's frescos; mediaeval Milizie and Conti towers. Beneath Ch. of Cappuccini tourists visit vaults containing 4,000 desiccated bodies of Capuchin monks, many in robes, others used in ghastly decorations. In 346 BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN. rear of monastery is Villa Ludovisi, along city-wall, with Juno Ludovisi, Guercino's Aurora, etc., in its embowered casinos. Across Piazza Barberini (see Bernini's Triton Fountain) is great and splendid Pa- lazzo Barberini (1624), with noble halls, antique sculptures, library (50,000 vols.; open Thurs., 9–2), and Picture-Gallery (open 12–5, except Sat.) contain- ing Raphael's Fornarina, the so-called Guido’s Beatrice Cenci, etc. In the great hall, see Pietro da Cortona’s fresco, “The Triumph of Glory.” On Piazza di SS. Apostoli, see ch. (555; restored 1872) with monuments by Canova; Valentino, Odes- calchi, and Ruffo Palaces; and Palazzo Colonna (1417), with splendid halls and gardens, antiques, . Gobelins, and several halls filled with fine old pictures (open daily, 11–3; names of pictures on frames). The Baths of Diocletian, near rly-stat., were once the largest in Rome, 6,000 ft. around, with 3,000 bathers daily. Built in 4th century by enslaved Chris- tians. One of the great vaulted halls was made info Ch. of S. Maria degli Angeli, by Michael Angelo (1561). It is 300 ft. long and 90 ft. high, with 16 columns (40 ft. high) of Oriental granite, Houdon’s statue of St. Bruno, Domenichino's wonderful frescos, and tombs of Salvator Rosa and Carlo Maratta. Other halls of the Baths are now military storehouses, etc.; as also is Carthusian Monastery, one of whose cloisters has 100 columns, and was designed by Angelo. A fragment of the Wall of Servius is in the rly.-stat. The Patriarchal Basilica of S. Maria Maggiore is on the Esquiline, between 2 squares, adorned with an ancient obelisk, and a column 46 ft, high, with bronze statue of Madonna. First ch. here built by Pope Liberius (in 352), on ground indicated by miraculous fall of snow in August. Present nave (279 × 57 ft.) ROME. - 347 built in 432–40, with 42 marble Ionic columns (from Temple of Juno), and 5th-century mosaics on archi- trave, walls, and arch. Impressive façade, with 5 por- tals, statue of Philip IV. of Spain, and interesting old mosaics. See high altar, a porphyry sarcophagus con- taining St. Matthew’s remains, with canopy on 4 º columns; Borghese Chapel, with altar of lapis azuli and agate, and Madonna painted by St. Luke ; Chapel (with 10 porphyry columns) containing manger- cradle of Christ; tombs of 6 popes; sumptuous Six- tine Chapel, and others. The first gold brought from America was given to the Pope by Ferdinand and Isabella, and used in decorating this ch. Like St. Peter's, this magnificent temple, so rich in gems and mosaics, should be visited several times. Near by, see S. Antonio Abate, the ch. where do- mestic animals are blessed on third week in Jan. ; Triumphal Arch of Gallienus (A.D. 262); S. Eusebio, frescoed by Raphael Mengs; tower of Aqua Claudia; S. Prassede (882; restored in 1450 and 1869), with 9th-century mosaics, column at which Christ was scourged, bones of Sts. Praxedis and Pudentiana, and Chapel of Garden of Paradise, with mosaics on gold; S. Pudenziana, on site where St. Peter lived, with 4th-century mosaics (3,000 martyrs are buried be- neath); S. Martino ai Monti (500), a basilica with 42 antique columns, and frescos by Poussin; and 8. Pietro in Vincoli (442), built by Empress Eudoxia to receive St. Peter's chains, with 20 antique Doric columns, fine bronze doors, and Michael Angelo's famous statue of Moses. The Pantheon is the best preserved of the old Roman buildings. It was built i. Augustus's son-in- law, Agrippa, B.C. 27; burnt under Titus and Trajan; restored by Hadrian, Antoninus, and Caracalla; conse- 348 THE PANTHEON. crated by Boniface IV., in 610, as Ch. of S. Maria ad Martyres; deformed by its 2 campaniles, by Bernini; stripped of its bronzes by Urban VIII. ; and restored by Pius IX. Great excavations are now in progress, revealing Roman works and buildings. The vast round walls of brick, 20 ft. thick, were once covered with marble. The portico (now below, but once above, the square) has 16 huge monolithic columns of Oriental granite, 39 ft. high, with Corinthian capitals of famed beauty. Statues of Augustus and Agrippa once stood here. The circular interior is very impres- sive; and is lighted from a place 28 ft. across in the centre of the dome, open to the sky. This unrivalled dome is 140 ft. high and 140 ft. across. It was ascended by Charles W. in 1536. The gilded bronze roof-tiles were carried to Constantinople in 655; and all the other bronzes were used in making cannon for the Citadel and the canopy in St. Peter's. The 7 niches in which statues of the gods stood are now occupied by altars. Raphael is buried here, near his betrothed, Cardinal Bibiena's niece. Here also rest Peruzzi, Giovanni da Udine, Annibale Caracci, and Perino della Waga; and here is the tomb of King Victor Emmanuel of Italy. The Gothic S. Maria sopra Minerva, back of Pan- theon, was built in 1285 on site of Temple of Minerva, and contains tombs of Bembo, Fra Angelico, Urban VII., Paul IV., Leo X., and Clement VII. ; Michael Angelo's Christ, and many choice works of art. Adja- cent Government building was headquarters of Do- minican Order, in which Galileo retracted his statement about the earth's motion. Great library here, 120,000 vols. and 4,500 MSS. Close by, see S. Ignazio (1626), and Collegio Romano, in which is famous Kircherian Museum of archaeology (9–3 daily; 11). ROME. - 349 S. Andrea della Valle (1591) has tombs of Pius II. and III., and Domenichino's celebrated Evangelists. Near by, see Palazzo Vidoni, designed by Raphael; Palazzo Massimi alle Colonne (1536), with statue of Discus-thrower; great Palazzo Braschi; Pasquino statue; ruins of Pompey's Theatre; Chiesa Nuova (1605), with paintings by Rubens, monastery, and great library; Palazzo della Cancelleria, very elegant, de- signed by Bramante; busy Piazza di Campo dei Fiori; vast Palazzo Farnese (Fri., 10–2), built by Sangallo and Michael Angelo in 1534–45, now belonging to ex- King of Naples, and splendidly frescoed by Annibale Caracci (Triumphs of Ariadne and Bacchus); Palazzo Spada alla Regola (1540), with great collections of antique sculptures and paintings (Mon., Wed., Sat., 9–3); and many other famous chs. and palaces. The great Piazza Navona has 3 interesting foun- tains, and is bounded by the Lancelloti, Ornani, Braschi, and Pamfili Palaces; S. Maria dell’Anima (1514), Ger- man national ch., with mausoleum of Adrian WI. ; and the Spanish national ch. Near it is S. Maria della Pace (1484), containing Raphael’s Sibyls (1514). Fine cloister (1504) adjacent. S. Agostino (1483; re- stored in 1860), has tomb of Monica, Augustine's mother, and Raphael’s famous Prophet Isaiah (1512). Adjacent is old monastery. In Piazza S. Apollinare, see ch. (1552) with Perugino's Madonna, Seminario Romano school, and handsome Palazzo Altemps. S. Luigi de' Francesi (1589), on square with Patrizi, Madama, and Giustiniani Palaces, has many notable º Near by is University of the Sapienza, ounded 1303, and now having 4 faculties and a library (Alessandrina) of 90,000 vols. S. of the Gesù, see many palaces and chs. ; the Tortoise (Tartarughe) Fountain (1585); Palazzo Costaguti (1590), with Albano's and 350 CASTLE OF ST. ANGELo. Guercino's frescos; Palazzo Mattei (1616), with many statues in court; Palazzo Cenci, where Beatrice Cenci lived; the Ghetto, the very singular and interesting quarter of the Jews; Colonnade of Octavia, built by Augustus in honor of his sister; Theatre of Marcellus (B.C. 13), 12 huge arches only remaining; and palaces of the Orsini and Savelli. From the Bridge of St. Angelo to the Vatican. — The 5-arched Ponte S. Angelo was built by Hadrian (A.D. 136) and named Pons Ælius. 10 colossal angel- statues by Bernini (1688) adorn its parapets. At the end rises vast round Castle S. Angelo (fee, 11.), built by Hadrian for a mausoleum (with colossal statue on summit), where the Antonines and other emperors and their families were buried. Later, it was a fortress, which repelled dreadful sieges, as when the Greeks (in 537) threw down its statues on the assailing Goths; and a prison, where Beatrice Cenci, Benvenuto Cellini, Cagliostro, Pope John X. (suffocated here), etc., were shut up. Very interesting interior, tomb chambers, j planes, cells, papal suite (where Clement VII. took refuge when Bourbon’s troops sacked Rome), and grand view from top, on which see bronze angel, com- memorating Gregory the Great’s vision of Archangel Michael sheathing his sword on this spot, after which the plague ceased to devastate Rome (hence name of castle). A covered way runs hence to the Vatican. Near by is enormous S. Spirito Hospital, for sick, aged, lunatics, and foundlings (open 2–4), accommo- dating nearly 5,000 persons. The Borgo Nuovo leads by several chs, and palaces (Giraud, Ricciardi, etc.), and the Piazza Rusticueen, where Raphael died, to the mag- nificent St. Peter's Square (Piazza di S. Pietro), 1110 × 840 ft. in area, surrounded by imposing Doric colonnades, built by Bernini in 1667, and composed of ROME. , 351 284 columns and 90 pilasters, each 41% ft. high. On the roofs are 126 colossal statues of saints. In centre of square (or rather circle) stands an Obelisk brought by Caligula from Egyptian Heliopolis, and set up here in 1586. At each side is a handsome fountain (46 ft. high). Iºntrance to St. Peter's in front; to the Vatican, to the r., at end of colonnade. St. Peter's was built by Constantine (A.D. 326), on site of Nero's circus, where St. Peter was martyred, and surrounded by rich chs., convents, etc. Charlemagne and many emperors and popes were crowned there. In 1450–1626 the present ch. was built, having among its architects Bramante, Raphael, Peruzzi, Michael Angelo (from his 72d to 79th year), Fontana, and Bernini. It cost over $50,000,000; took 176 years (the reigns of 28 popes) to build; and covers 212,321 sq. ft., being the largest ch. in the world. Total length, 696 ft.; length of transept, 450 ft. ; length of nave, 619 ft.; width of nave, 89 ft., (height, 153 ft.); height of dome and cross, 470 ft. ; diameter, 141 ft. Façade (finished in 1612), 369 ft. long, 165 ft. high, crowned by statues of Christ and Apostles, each 19 ft, high. Portico, 234 × 43 ft. (66 ft. high), with colossal statues of Constantine and Charlemagne, Giot- to's mosaic of La Navicella, and brazen central doors (made in 1447). Interior has 30 altars, 148 columns (mostly from ruins of ancient Rome); inlaid marble pavement (see stones showing length of other great chs.), brilliantly gilded vaulting upheld by Corinthian pillars and piers, famous bronze statue of St. Peter enthroned, many colossal statues of saints, vast in- scriptions and pictures in mosaic, canopy 95 ft. high made by Bernini (1633) of bronze from Pantheon, high altar over tomb of St. Peter (which is approached by marble stairs, and surrounded by 90 ever-burning lamps), wooden throne of St. Peter, many vast and 352 THE WATICAN. beautiful chapels, tombs of the popes, many paintings by great masters, and statues by Michael Angelo, Canova, Thorwaldsen. See tombs of Maria Sobieski, several Stuart princes, Palestrina, Christina of Sweden, etc. In Sacristy (1775), see 3 chapels, many rare ictures by Giotto, etc. In Treasury, see candelabra y Cellini and Angelo, Charlemagne's dalmatica, and rare jewels. The Crypts are very interesting, with many chapels, mosaics, carvings, and tombs. 137 popes were buried in St. Peter's. The Dome (open Thurs., 8–10), 630 ft. around, rises 308 ft. above the roof (to which, 142 steps). Look down into ch. from inner gallery. Stairs between inner and outer dome to Lantern (grand view over Rome and Campagna), whence you may climb into ball under cross (large enough to hold 16 persons). Walk around the ch., outside, to see its vast propor- tions. At its side and rear, see ancient German ceme- tery and hospice; and Palace of the Inquisition (now barracks). The Vatican, the largest palace in the world, ad- joins St. Peter's, and has 20 courts and 11,000 halls and rooms. , Pope Symmachus founded first papal palace here in 498; and Charlemagne dwelt therein. After return from Avignon the popes lived here, desert- ing the Lateran; and after 1450 the palace was en- larged by successive popes, from designs by Bramante, Bernini, etc. Notice singular uniforms of Swiss #". invented by Michael Angelo, Ascend splen- id Scala Regia to Sistine Chapel, built and named for Pope Sixtus IV. in 1473, 133 × 45 ft. in area (best light at morning). Frescos by Signorelli, Botticelli, etc. Magnificent ceiling, frescoed by Michael Angelo (1508–11), Creation, Fall, Deluge, Prophets and Sibyls, etc. On altar-wall, 64 ft. wide, Angelo's terri- ble and incomparable Last Judgment. See Pauline ROME. 353 # Chapel (1540), with other frescos by Angelo; Sala Ducale, frescos by Brill; and Sala Regia, historical frescos by Vasari, etc. The Loggie are adorned with Biblical scenes, from Raphael's designs, and beautiful stucco work. Raphael's Stanze are 4 rooms con- taining the noblest frescos of Raphael (1508–20), the Disputa, Parnassus, School of Athens, Heliodorus, Attila, Liberation of St. Peter, etc. The Chapel of Nicholas W. has spiritual frescos by Fra Angelico (1447). The Picture-Gallery contains paintings taken by Napoleon from the Roman chs., and placed here when brought back from Paris. See Raphael’s Transfiguration and Madonna di Foligno, Domeni- chino's St. Jerome, and works of Leonardo, Fra An- gelico, Titian, Guido, Murillo, etc.. The Museum of Sculptures (closed Mon. and Thur., 2–4) contains 1,800 pieces, including Apollo Belvedere, Perseus of Canova, Laocoön, Juno, Minerva Medica, Mercury, Torso, Penelope, Eros, etc. See also porphyry sarcopha- gus of Empress Helena; Braccio Nuovo hall, with 16 splendid ancient columns (alabaster, etc.); Belvedere Court; Sala delle Muse, with 16 Carrara-marble col- umns; Sala Rotonda, on model of Pantheon; Hall of Greek Cross; magnificent Tapestry of Raphael (1515–16), representing Biblical scenes; Gregorian Museum of Etruscan Antiquities, in 12 rooms; Egyptian Museum, 10 rooms; Library and Archives, 50,000 vols. and 24,000 MSS. (many of them very precious); papal manufactory of mosaic, where 10,000 colors and shades of glass are used; and gardens of Vatican. Stroll down the riverside Longara, nearly 1 M. long, joining the Leonine City (where are St. Peter's and the Vatican) to Trastevere. Passing under Gate of the Holy Spirit, ascend to S. Onofrio ch. (1439), with tombs of Tasso and Mezzofanti. Adjacent mon- 23 354 TRASTEVERE. — JANICULAN HILL. astery has Leonardo's Madonna, Tasso's cell and oak. Farther down Longara, see fine Palazzo Salviati (now civic archives); Botanical Gardens ; very, beautiful Villa Farnesina (1506), with Raphael's famous fres- cos of Psyche and Galatea; and Palazzo Corsini (open Mon., Thurs, Sat., 9–3), with 9 halls of paint- ings, 8 of books and MSS., and a garden of rare beauty. Enter, by Porta Settimiana, into Trastevere (from Trans-Tiber), a quarter whose inhabitants claim to be direct descendants of the ancient Romans. See 12th- century basilica of S. Crisogono, near which mosaic- *. and frescoed house of No. 7 company of old oman (3d-century) fire department; S. Maria Traste- were, built by Calixtus I. (A.D. 217), with 22 antique columns, mosaics, etc.; St. Cecilia (A.D. 222), with mosaics, broad court, portico on African-marble col- umns, and tomb of St. Cecilia, whose house stood on this site. On the Janiculan Hill over Trastevere, command- ing a noble panoramic view of Rome and mts., see S. Pietro in Montorio (1500), on site of St. Peter’s martyrdom, with many ancient paintings; Tempietto (1502) in court of adjacent monastery, with 16 Doric columns; Acqua Paola, a magnificent old fountain, outlet of Trajan’s aqueduct; S. Pancrazio Gate (fine views near); and Willa Doria Pamfili, a very lovel park and casino. This trip over the Janiculan # should not be omitted. 3. Between Trastevere and the Ghetto, in the Tiber, is the Island, of S. Bartolommeo (ancient bridges from both shores), with Ch. of S. Bartolommeo (built A.D. 1000), with 14 ancient columns, on site of a heathem temple (AEsculapius was worshipped here). The island also has a large monastery, and a fountain- adorned square. ROME. 355 The Capitol is reached by asphalt stairs from Piazza Araceli, with Egyptian lions at base, and the marble Dioscuri (Castor and Pollux), or Horse-Tamers, at the top. See, also, the Trophies of Marius; antique statues of Constantine and Constans; and male and female wolves, caged. The Piazza del Campidoglio, planned by Michael Angelo and built by Paul III. (1536), has in its centre the famous and unrivalled antique bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, anciently sup- posed to represent Constantine, and placed before the Lateran from 1187 to 1538. The palaces on three sides were built or remodelled by Angelo. The Pal- ace of the Conservators (r. side; open 10–3) con- tains halls of busts of celebrated Italians, Latin sculp- tures, Etruscan museum, great halls with frescos from Punic and Cimbrian wars, and a gallery of 200–300 paintings. In the Capitoline Museum | side; open 10–3) see Marforio, the colossal river-god, and sarco- phagi; halls of bronzes and urns; ancient marble plan of Rome; exquisitely fine mosaic of Doves of Pliny; 82 antique busts of emperors; antique statues of the philosophers and gods; and vast number of famous classic sculptures, including Capitoline Juno, Amazon, Antinous, rosso-antico Faun, Dying Gladiator, and Capitoline Venus (in closed cabinet). The Palace of the Senator, at end of square, was built in 1389, and adorned by Michael Angelo. It is now the town- hall. The campanile (1572) commands a fine view, and contains great bell. Just S. E. is the Tarpeian Rock. Streets lead from Capitol down into Forum. High over Capitol (long stairway), on site of Temple of Jupiter, is 9th-century Ch, of S. Maria in Araceli, With homely front, and interior adorned with 22 an- tique columns of assorted sizes, many paintings, chapel of the Bambino, tomb of St. Helena, etc. Adjacent is 356 TRAJAN'S COLUMN. splendid Franciscan monastery (1251), with 2 courts, now a barrack. While hearing the monks chant in Araceli (1764), Gibbon conceived the idea of his famous history. The Mamertine Prison, between Araceli and Forum (fee, #1.), was built by the early kings of Rome, very massively. Here were slain Jugurtha, Wercingetorix, Joras, and Catiline's allies; and here St. Peter was imprisoned (they show pillar to which he was chained). Between the Forum and Tiber, see round 7th-cen- tury Ch. of S. Teodoro; temple of Janus Quadrifrons, built in Constantine’s time; 4th-century basilica of S. Giorgio in Velabro, with antique columns; Arcus Ar- gentarius, built by merchants of adjacent Forum Boarium (cattle-market) to Septimius Severus; mouth of great sewer of Cloaca Maxima; 3d-century ch. of S. Maria in Cosmedin, on site and with columns of King Servius's Temple of Fortune, and with handsome 8th-century campanile; round temple (of Westa, or Hercules), surrounded by 19 (once 20) Corinthian columns; pretty little Ionic temple, now Ch. of S. Maria Egiziaca; House of Rienzi (10th century); and Ponte Rotto (Pons Æmilius), with suspension-bridge filling place of arches swept away in 1598, leading to Trastevere. Trajan’s Column, 87 ft. high (147 ft. with base and statue of St. Peter), is surrounded with a spiral bas-relief, 3 ft. wide and 660 ft. long, on which are 2,500 human figures, illustrating events of Dacian war. Tra- ian was . beneath. Stairs inside to top. Close y, see remains of vast Basilica Ulpia, built A.D. 111– 114, by Apollodorus of Damascus, for Trajan, and once the grandest building in Rome. See, also, chs. of Nome di Maria (1683) and Loreto (1507). Near by are frag- ROME. 357 ments of Forum of Augustus, of which a massive wall, 450 ft. long, and 3 columns of Temple of Mars Ulfor remain. The Academy of St. Luke (open 9–3) contains statuary by Canova and Thorwaldsen, and many fine old paintings, including veiled pictures by Titian, etc. This is a choice collection. Near by is an imposing fragment of Werva’s Forum. The Palace of the Caesars consists of enormous ruins on the Palatine, the original site of early Rome, where dwelt Evander, Romulus, Catiline, Cicero, Au- gustus, Tiberius, Vespasian, Odoacer, Theodoric, etc. Fifty years ago the Palatine was a hill of vineyards, with convents, but the emperors of Russia and France began excavations, which Italy has continued (open Sun. and Thurs. in summer, 9–7). Enter from Forum, and see Museum, with articles found here; foundations of Caligula’s palace; parts of Tiberius’s palace; hand- some private house of Livia, with mural paintings; Fla- vian palace, built by Vespasian; platform of Temple of Jupiter Victor; colonnades; stairs hewn in rock; school-house; and other very interesting ruins. (Get local guide.) The Forum, Romanum was a marshy space be- tween the Capitol and Palatine, the battle-ground of Sabines and Romans, afterwards the centre of their state, embellished with many splendid temples and statues, the Scene of many famous events, and seat of the councils which ruled the world. After the fall of Rome, some of the temples became chs. and others were torn down for building materials; and the troops who came to the aid of Hildebrand, in the 11th century, completed the destruction. Over this rubbish-heaped Campo Vaccino (cow-pasture), fortresses and houses arose. In 1536, Paul III. began to clear the ground, but little was done until 1803. Since 1871 extensive works have been car- 358 FORUM ROMANUM. ried on. The original level was 30 ft. below the pres- ent. The remains of the Tabularium (built B. c. 87), vast vaults for archives and 3,000 bronze tables of de- crees and records, now serve as foundations for Palace of the Senator. See its pºnderous arcades and gallery, and view over Forum. The marble Arch of Septimius Severus is covered with sculptures of the victories of Septimius, and his sons Caracalla and Geta, over the Parthians and Arabians. Erected in 203, it became a mediaeval castle, and was excavated in 1803. Back of it are remains of Temple of Concord (B.C. 366, restored by Tiberius), where the Senate sometimes met, and Cicero impeached Catiline. The tall white columns near by ertained to the Temple of Vespasian (once of Jupiter onans), built by Domitian, and restored by Septimius and Caracalla. To the W. stand the Schola Xantha, the home of the official scribes, and the Colonnade of the Twelve Gods (built A.D. 367, by an anti-Christian præ- fect). 8 granite Ionic columns in front of Vespasian's Temple, pertained to Temple of Saturn, the treasury of the republic (built B.C. 491), in good order till 15th cen- tury. . Nearby were the orators’ tribunes (rostra), often used by Cicero. The Column of Phocas was erected in 608, in honor of a Greek emperor, and excavated in 1813, at cost of Duchess of Devonshire. Nearby, see Basilica Julia, 333 by 159 ft., built by Caesar, with parts of its many pillars remaining. 3 Parian-marble columns still stand on site of splendid Temple of Castor and Pollua, (built B.C. 484; rebuilt A.D. 6). On E. are founda- tions of Temple of Caesar, where Mark Antony deliv- ered his funeral oration. The Temple of Faustina (A.D. 141), fairly preserved, with 10 magnificent Euboean- marble columns, encloses the ch. of S. Lorenzo in Mi- randa. Divine honors were accorded by the Senate to Faustina and Antoninus, her husband. See adjacent ROME. 359 7th-century ch. of S. Adriano, on site of Curia Hostilia. The Via Sacra, leading from S. gate of Rome to Cap- itol, lies 20 ft. below the road. The circular Temple of Romulus is now the ch. of SS. Cosmo and Damian, with porphyry columns, bronze doors, 6th-century mosaics, ând tombs of Saints. The Basilica of Constantine, origi- mally 300 by 264 ft. in area, has 3 stupendous arches remaining (beautiful view from top). Back of ch. of S. Francesca Romana (interesting tombs and relics) are ruins of once superb Temple of Venus and Rome, de- signed by Hadrian, who would be architect as well as emperor (A.D. 135). The marble Triumphal Arch of Titus, small, but very interesting and graceful, com- memorates the victories over the Jews, A.D. 70. It was a mediaeval fortress of the Frangipani. See the bas- reliefs. Hence the Sacred Way descends to the vast building named, from colossal statue of Nero, the Colos- Beum, Rome's chief marvel. It was founded by Wes- pasian and finished by Titus, Jewish captives doing the work (A.D. 80); 10,000 men and 5,000 beasts were slain at its inauguration; the scene of countless fights of gladiators and wild beasts; and of magnificent celebra- tion of 1000th anniversary of Rome's foundation (A.D. 248); afterwards fortress of Frangipani, Annibaldi, etc.; in 14th and 15th centuries a quarry, its fine ma- sonry being used to build Farnese, &ºiºi, S. Maru co, and other vast palaces; about 1750 redeemed, and consecrated to the Passion of Christ. It is an ellipse, # M. around and 156 ft. high, with arena 279 by 174 ft. in area, which could be flooded for naval combats: 87,000 spectators could be accommodated. Only # of the Colosseum now stands. Visit it by moonlight also. The adjacent Arch of Constantine, the most beau- tiful in Rome, commemorates the victory over Max- entius (311), the Pagan emperor, and stands on the ********-ºs-ºn 360 BATHS OF TITUS. — S. STEFANO ROTONDO. Triumphal Way. The best of the many sculptures were taken from an older monument of Trajan. Pius VII. unburied this arch in 1804. Close by, see remains of sumptuous Baths of Titus (; fr.), on the Esquiline, on part of site of Nero's Golden House. Beautiful mu- ral paintings here, which suggested Raphael’s frescos ini Vatican loggie. S. Clemente, the oldest ch. in Rome, is midway between the Colosseum and Lateran. Up- per ch. is a basilica, with 16 antique columns, old mo- saics, and rich canopy. The lower ch., built before 392, and damaged by Guiscard's Norman army (1084), has been excavated since 1858. It has 16 antique columns and 5th-century frescos (very interesting). Still far- ther down are remains of St. Clement's (4th pope) house, discovered in 1867. (See Hachette’s guide- book.) Near by, on lonely Celian Hill, see ch. of 55. Quatro Coronati, to 4 saints martyred by Diocletian, — very ancient, destroyed by Guiscard’s Normans, and restored in 1111; S. Stefano Rotondo, the largest circular ch. in existence, built by Simplicius in 470, with 56 columns and many frescos of terrible mar- tyrdoms; La Navicella, rebuilt in 817, with many columns of granite and porphyry, and 9th-century mosa- ics; 5th-century S.S. Giovanni e Paolo, with Passionist monastery and garden; S. Gregorio (575), 16 antique columns, part of St. Gregory’s house, a bit of Servian Wall, and 3 very interesting detached chapels. The broad º of S. Giovanni in Laterano has a red-granite obelisk 104 ft. high (with pedestal, 153 ft.), erectede at Thebes, B.C. 1560; brought to Rome by Constantine, A.D. 357; and set up here in 1587. On one side, Women’s Hospital; opposite which see Scala Santa, 28 marble steps (brought to Rome by Empress Helena, in 326), by which Christ is said to have entered Pilate's palace, at Jerusalem. They are ascended on ROME. 361 the knees only, and lead to very sacred chapel (1278). Here, alongside wall of Rome, and overlooking Cam- pagna and mts., stands venerable basilica of S. Giovanni in Lateran, on whose front is inscribed Omnium urbis ef orbis ecclesiarum mater et capuff. This is the Pope's ch, as Bishop of Rome; at St. Peter's he is sovereign Pontiff of the world. Five ecumenical councils were held here, between 1123 and 1512. Constantine built first ch. here, on site of palace of Laterani family. Present ch. built 1360–1734. Façade with colossal statues, bronze doors, statue of Constantine. Inte- rior has grand nave, with 4 aisles, inlaid pavement, massive pillars with 24 statues of Prophets and Apos- tles, bronze statue of Martin W., Altar of the Sacrament (with antique columns of gilded bronze), many fine old mosaics, Giotto's fresco of Pope Boniface VIII., mag- nificent Corsini Chapel (inlaid with precious stones), Torlonia Chapel (in white marble and gold), Donatel- lo's wooden statue of St. John the Baptist, Bernini's Pietà, and the great Papal Altar, over which is a canopy containing heads of Sts. Peter and Paul. Beautiful 13th-century monastery court adjacent; also octagonal Baptistery, in which it is said that Constantine was baptized, with 8 porphyry columns, basalt font, bronze doors (1196), 7th-century mosaics, and 3 oratories (built in 461 and 640). In adjacent Lateran Palace the popes dwelt for a thousand years (to 1308). Pres- ent palace built in 1586; and in 1843 converted into Vast and interesting museum (open 9–4) of antique Sculptures, Christian sarcophagi and inscriptions (from Catacombs), and picture-gallery filling 8 rooms, with remarkable Latin mosaics. S. Croce in Gerusalemme, among lonely fields between Aqua Claudia and Roman wall, is a 4th-cen- tury basilica, founded by Empress Helena, on earth \ 362 BATHS OF CARACALLA. brought from Jerusalem, with mosaics, frescos, tombs of Saints, and the Inscription on the Cross. Cistercian monastery adjacent, with famous library. Also, ruins of Castrensian Amphitheatre, etc. To N., ruins of 3d- century decagonal Temple of Minerva Medica, once rich in statues; and near rly., S. Bibiana (470), with an- tique columns inside. In casino of Villa Massimo, on Piazza Lateran, rich modern frescos from Dante, Tasso, and Ariosto, by Overbeck, Schnorr, etc. Villa Wolkonsky near by. The jºbrick Pyramid of Cestius, at Porta S. Paolo, is 116 ft. high (base, 98 ft. square), with chamber 19 × 13 ft., where the tribune Caius Cestius was buried (B.C. 30). Close by are the Protestant Cemeteries, with graves of Keats, Severn, etc., and of the heart of Shelley. See, across meadows, the lonely Monte Testaccio, 164 ft, high, composed entirely of broken pottery, crowned by a cross (grand view hence), and cut into by wine-sellers’ grottos. To the N., see ancient Latin Emporium and quays of Marmorata ; also 3 chs. on Aventine : S. Sabina, built in 425, in basilica form, with 24 antique Corinthian columns of Parian marble, and open roof, and adjacent Dominican mon- astery (beautiful cloisters); S. Alessio, very ancient, restored in 1217, with Hieronymite monastery adjoin- ing; and S. Maria Aventina, with tombs of Knights of Malta, whose priory is close by. The Baths of Caracalla (fee, ll), nearly 1, M. from Arch of Constantine (by S. Balbina, a very ancient ch., with open roof), still show remains of their am- cient vastness and magnificence. They cover an area 1,080 ft. square, and could accommodate 1,600 bathers. Caracalla was the founder (A.D. 212). Many famous statues were discovered here. Splendidview from roof. Near by, see ch. of SS. Nereo ed Achilleo, built by THE APPLAN WAY. 363 Leo III. in 300, on site of Temple of Isis, in basilica style; S. Sisto, and convent of S. Domenico ; very ancient S. Cesareo; and, near the closed Porta Latina, old chs. of S. Giovanni, and a Latin tomb. Beyond Tomb of the Scipios (; fr.) and Columbaria, the street passes the mutilated Arch of Drusus (B.C. 8), and enters the Appian Way at S. Sebastian Gate. The Appian Way (called Regina Viarum) was begun B.C. 312 by Appius Claudius, and ran to Capua, and afterwards to Brindisi, forming main route to S. Italy, Greece, and Egypt. By order of Pius IX., it was excavated as far as Fratocchie, 11 M. out, on rly. to Albano. Beautiful views all along, of Campagna, aqueducts, and Alban Mts. Beyond Domine quo Vadis ch., a path leads off to Temple of Deus Rediculus, a handsome little building of Hadrian's era; the Grotto of Egeria ; a red-brick 2d-century tomb, or temple, now the ch. of S. Urbano (with frescos of A.D. 1011); and the tombs on the Via Latina. On Via Appia are Catacombs of S. Calixtus (fee, 1–2 l.), with tombs of St. Cecilia and many 2d and 3d century popes and martyrs, and 7th-century Byzantine paintings. Cata- combs of Domitilla and St. Praefectatus near by. # M. beyond is very ancient S. Sebastiano ch., under which are extensive catacombs (1 l.). Farther on see remains of Circus of Mawentius, built in 311, 1,590 ft. long, with seats for 18,000 people. On hill beyond sº the famous Tomb of Caecilia Metella, round, 65 ft. in diameter, and in 13th century a tower of now vanished castle of the Gaetani. Beyond, the Way is bordered by ancient tombs on either side, and the old Latin pavement is the road-bed. Noble views of the mts. and the far prolonged arches of Aqua Marcia and Aqua Claudia. 6 M. out is Casale Rotondo, a large tomb; and it is 8 M. thence to Albano. Near 4th milestone is Tomb of 364 THE CAMPAGNA. Seneca (so called), near site of Seneca’s house, and also near ruins of beautiful little Temple of Jupiter, where many Christians suffered martyrdom. 3 tumuli, 1 M. beyond, are thought to be the tombs of the Horatii and Curiatii. At 9th milestone are ponderous brick ruins of villa and tomb of Emperor Gallienus. Excursions near Rome. — The Campagna is a great rolling plain of volcanic earth, between the sea and the Sabine Mts., with shallow ravines and low steep hills. Pools of water collect here in winter, and stag- nate in summer, giving forth the terrible malaria which makes Rome's vicinity so unhealthy. But every tourist should see Italy in her fair summer attire; and an August sojourn may be made at Rome with safety, by taking due precautions after sundown, and keeping in- doors at evening. The patriarchal and pilgrimage ch. of S. Lorenzo fu- ori le Mură, # M. beyond Porta di S. Lorenzo, on tomb of St. Lawrence, was founded by Constantine; rebuilt in 578; remodelled in 1216 ; and restored in 1864–70. See bronze statue of St. Lawrence, in square; façade with frescos of founders; 10th-century mosaic pave- ment; 22 antique Ionic columns of nave, upholding open roof; lower and older ch., with 12 noble Corin- thian columns of pavonazzetto; violet-marble columns. in presbytery; silver shrine with remains of St. Law- rence; beautiful 13th-century cloister adjacent. Great cemetery close by, in which Pius IX. is buried. The basilica of S. Agnese fuori le Mură, beyond the Patrizi and Torlonia villas, 13 M. outside Porta Pia, was built by Constantine, over St. Agnes’s tomb, and restored in 625 and 1856. Beyond court, 45 marble steps lead down to the ch., with mosaics, inlaid altars, 16 precious antique columns, and tabernacle (with por- phyry columns) over alabaster statue of St. Agnes. ROME. 365 Adjacent is S. Costanza, built by Constantine as tomb of his daughter Constantia, with dome resting on 24 columns of granite, porphyry sarcophagus of Constantia, and 4th-century mosaics. 3. S. Paolo fuori le Mura, 1% M. from Porta S. Paolo (omnibus every # hr. from Palazzo Venezia), on Ostian road, alongside Tiber, is on site of a deeply ven- erated ch. built by Constantine, over St. Paul’s tomb, and magnificently enriched and enlarged by emperors and popes, but burnt in 1823. Present ch., consecrated in 1854, of valuable materials and imposing propor- tions, is 390 × 195 ft. in area, and 75 ft. high (inside). Wonderfully impressive nave, and four aisles, with 80 enormous Simplon-granite columns, whose bases and capitals are of marble; long lines of mosaic portraits of all the popes; and stained-glass windows. See alabas- ter columns given by Viceroy of Egypt; malachite altars, given by the Czar; 5th-century mosaics; splen- did altar-canopy (1285); and rich chapels. Adjacent is beautiful and richly endowed Benedictine cloister (1220), surrounding orange-grove. 2 M. hence is S. Sebastiano (p. 363); and out on Via Ardeatina (1}–2 M.) are abbey and 3 chs. (393–1599) of Tre Fontane, where St. Paul was beheaded. The handsome Ponte Molle, 1% M. (dull road) from Porta del Popolo, was rebuilt in 1815 on site of Milvian Bridge, built B. c. 109, where Maxentius was slain, after being defeated by Constantine (A.D. 312). 2 M. out is Aqua Acetosa, a famous old mineral-spring, beyond the once sumptuous villa which Vignola built for Pope Julius III. Beyond Ponte Molle are the far-viewing rock-tombs of the Nasones, the Villa of Livia, and the famous Valley of Poussin. , Monte Mario, 1; M. from Porta Angelica, is a bold hill (road to top),476 ft. high, and commanding a superb 366 TORRE DEI SCHIAVI. — ALBANO. view of Rome, the Campagna, the mts., and the sea. There are several villas here, among which see Willa Mellini, famed for its prospect, and Villa Madama, de- signed by Raphael, and owned in turn by Clement VII., the Farnese family, and the King of Naples. See loggia, with frescos by Giulio Romano. The Via Nomentana leads from Porta Pia, 2 M., from which it crosses the Anio by an ancient bridge. 1; M. beyond is the famous Mons Sacer; and the road is prolonged to the battle-field of Mentana (1867). The Via Praenestina leads from Porta Maggiore to (2 M.) the Torre dei Schiavi, a favorite resort of artists. It is a large group of very obscure ruins, once pertaining to the villa of Gordian, and in Middle Ages used for a ch. and a castle. 3 M. from Porta Mag- giore, on Via Labicana, are the ruins of the mausoleum of the Empress Helena (now a ch.). The Via Campana runs along the Tiber, from Porta Portese to (5 M.) the Vigna Ceccarelli, with scanty remains of temple and hall of ancient agricultural brotherhood of the Fratres Arpales, founded by the foster-brothers of Romulus, to invoke the Goddess of Plenty. Near by, see well-preserved Catacombs of S. Generosa ; also (near Magliana stat.), château of La Magliana, once frescoed by Raphael. The Via Salara leads from the Salarian Gate to (2}M.) the ancient stone bridge over the Anio, de- stroyed by the Goths, rebuilt by Narses, and blown up in 1867. On far-viewing height close by stood Antem- naº, a town destroyed by Romulus; and 4 M. beyond, near Castel Giubileo (built by Boniface VIII. in 1300), are the scanty ruins of Fidemae. Albano (Hötel de la Poste ; De Russie ; Città di Parigi) is 18 M. from Rome (1 hr. ; fares, 3 l. 90 c., 31. 10 c., 11.90 c.), by rly. across Campagna, crossing ITALY. 367. lines of aqueducts and Via Latina. Climb of # hr. (2; M.) from stat. to Albano (omnibus, # 1.). Omni- buses run twice daily from Rome to Albano (2% hrs.; 2; l.). You can also drive hither over Appian Hay. At Albano were Pompey's Villa, Domitian's great Albanum, the vineyards whose wine Horace praised, and the mediaeval fortress of the Savelli. It has many Roman relics, especially in the Villa Doria (open to visitors). The high situation of Albano (1,250 ft.) and its pure air make it a favorite summer-resort. The town is famous for handsome women. Beyond the Villa Barberini is the large papal palace of Castel Gandolfo, still pertaining to the Pope. Beautiful view from Capuchin Monastery. Good roads on upper and lower galleries on E. of Lake Albano, an extinct crater, shaded with trees, and one of the love- liest of Italian lakes. The Romans (B.C. 397) cut a tunnel (still remaining) through the rock, and partly drained it, in obedience to an oracle. Alba Longa was nearby. A magnificent arcaded stone viaduct, 1,030 ft. long and 192 ft. high (built 1846–63), crosses the glen from Albano to ancient Ariccia (Martorelli), a town and palace pertaining to the Chigi family. Roads lead through noble old forests to Rocca di Papa, a village near reputed camp of Hannibal. The Via Triumphalis ascends to crest of Monte Cavo (3,130 ft. high; very broad view), where are remains of great Temple of Jupiter Latiaris, the chief shrine of the Latin League (Passionist monastery founded here in 1783). This region is described by Virgil in last books of Æneid, Where Juno, from Monte Cavo, observes the Latin and Roman armies. Beautiful scenery toward Genzano (Posta), 3 M. from Albano, whence one overlooks the crystalline Lake of Nemi, 2% M. around, and 300 ft. eep, in an extinct crater. Ovid speaks of this lake, 368 FRASCATI. — TIVOLI. which was called the Mirror of Diana, from a temple of the goddess on its shore. Here Tiberius had a splendid vessel afloat. Frascati (Londra ; Grande), 35 min. by rly. from Rome (fares, 2 H. 70 c., 2 l. 15 c., 11. 30 c.), is on a foot-hill of the Alban Mts., in a very healthy climate. It has many fine old 16th-century villas, among which see Aldobrandini, with fine fountains and oak-groves; Falconieri (1550), with many pictures and pretty gardens; Ruffinella, now owned by King of Italy; Mondragone, now a Jesuits’ school; and Piccolomini, where Baronius lived. A shaded road leads hence to Tusculum, founded by Ulysses's son Telemachus, the birthplace of Cato, and favorite residence of Cicero. It held out valiantly against Hannibal; but was destroyed by a papal Roman army in 1191. See Roman amphi- theatre, recently excavated Willa of Cicero, reservoir, Camaldoli Convent, and lofty Citadel (2,218 ft. high), with magnificent view, 3 M. distant, by a forest-road, is Grotta Ferrata, a Greek Basilian monastery (founded 1002), with famous frescos by Domenichino. Hence a guide will lead in l; hrs. to Rocca di Papa and Monte Cavo. 4; M. distant is Marino, an old Orsini fortress on Alban Mts., captured in 1424 (and still held) by the Colonnas. Good pictures in the 3 chs. 3 M. hence is rly.-stat., 35 min. (21., 1% l., 11.) from Rome. Pleasant road also to Castel Gandolfo and Albano. - 4. Tivoli (Pace; Regina ; Sibilla) is 16 M. from Rome by road (omnibus in 5 hrs. ; 2. l. ; private car- riage, 1-horse, 15 1. ; 2-horse, 20 l.), passing near Grotto of Cervara. This was the ancient Tibur, founded 5 centuries before Rome, and conquered by Camillus, B.c. 380. Here dwelt Maecenas, Horace, Propertius, and Catullus; and here Zenobia passed her captivity. ITALY. 369 Augustus, Hadrian, and other emperors and nobles had palaces here. It is now a huddled town of 7,000 inhab. 1 M. out is Hadrian's Villa (get permit at Palazzo Braschi, Rome), once the finest in the world, with many imposing buildings, covering several square M. It was destroyed by Totila's Goths, and only the most fragmentary ruins remain. The beautiful circular Corinthian Temple of the Sibyl (probably dedicated to Hercules or Vesta) and the oblong Ionic temple adjacent (now ch. of S. Giorgio) command a fine view of the Falls. Path leads to Grotto of Weptune and Sirens' Grotto. The chief fall is 330 ft. high; the smaller falls are Le Cascatelle. Many other fine bits of scenery here, and Roman ruins; also, Villa Braschi, overlooking Campagna, and Villa d’Este (1549), with very lovely gardens and ancient frescos. Many charm- ing excursions hence among Sabine Mts. Monte Gennaro (4,800 ft.) may be ascended in 6 hrs. by bridle-path. It is 11; M. from Tivoli to Valley of Licenza, site of Horace’s Sabinum farm. 23 M. (5 hrs.) up Anio Valley is Subiaco (Europa), a mediaeval castle-crowned town, built on remains of Nero's villa, and with very famous monasteries of S. Scolastica and S. Benedetto, a vast group of cloisters on site where St. Benedict lived. Palestrina, 22 M. from Rome (daily omnibus), 12 from Frascati, 4% from Walmontone stat., was the ancient Praeneste; conquered by Camillus (B.C. 380); headquarters of Marius; favorite Roman summer. resort (see Horace); scene of terrible wars between Colonnas and popes in Middle Ages; and since 1630 the property of the Barberini. See *i. walls, immense but shapeless Roman ruins, Barberini Pal- ace, Colonna fortress (1322), and vast view over ampagna. 24 370 OSTIA. — NAPLES. Bracciano (Piva), 24 M. from Rome (omnibus alternate days, in 6 hrs. ; 4 l.), has a wonderful old Gothic castle of lava, which Sir Walter Scott greatly admired. It was built by the Orsini, and is now owned by Odescalchi. Fine view from tower. Adja- cent lake is 20 M. around, and abounds in eels and malaria. Ostia, 14 M. from Rome, near mouth of Tiber, once had 80,000 inhab., but now has scarcely 100. The Saracens were terribly defeated here about A.D.850. See S. Aurea, Episcopal Palace, and tombs, temples, and baths of adjacent ruined city and seaport of classic age. 2 M. hence is very interesting Castel Fusano, a Chigi stronghold against pirates, 1% M. from Sea, in great pine-forest. There are many other deeply interesting excursions near Rome. See Hare’s Days near Rome, Baedeker's Central Italy, Murray, Hachette, or Cook. Naples, Baia, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri. Express trains, Rome to Naples, 7 hrs. (fares, 34+l., 23% l.); ordinary trains, 9 hrs. (fares lower). Some travellers go from Rome to Civita Vecchia by rly., and thence by steamer, for the sake of the lovely view entering the Bay of Naples. Paris to Naples, via Turin, Florence, and Rome, in 53 hrs. (fares, 2464 fr., 203 fr. 10 c.). Marseilles to Naples by sea, 181 fr., 128 fr. Naples is a convenient point of departure for Mediterranean ports. Steamships sail frequently for Alexandria, Tunis, Cagliari, Messina, Palermo, Genoa, Leghorn, and Marseilles. Hotels. – New York ; Des Etrangers; D’Amérique ; Wittoria ; Grand Bretagne; Du Louvre ; De la Ville; Pension Anglo-Américaine ; Métropole; De Rome; De Russie ; De Bristol ; De Genève ; Central. Baggage is sometimes examined on arriving at Naples, by excise officers, but the formalities are slight. NAPLES. -- 371 Conveyances. – Hotel-omnibus, 1% l. ; public omni- bus, 20 c. Baggage, 20 c. a piece. 2-horse cab, ll. 40c.; 1-horse cab, 70 c. Small boats from steamship to shore, ll. for each person, with or without baggage. Pay no attention to extortionate demands, with which boatmen usually begin. Beware of beggars, and people who offer their services. A rly, runs N. E. (124 M.; 5–6 hrs.) from Naples across Italy, by Benevento to Foggia, on the Adriatic, connecting there with rly. to Brindisi and Taranto, on S., and Ancona and N. Italy. By this route it is 19–20 hrs. to Bologna. The rly. ſ. Rome to Naples passes Velletri, an aficient Wolscian town (12,000 inhab.), with fine old Cathedral; Sgurgola, 4% M. from Anagni, a famous old papal town; Ferentino stat., 3 M. from Ferentino, a venerable Hernician hill-town, with castle, Cathedral, and huge polygonal walls; Frosinone stat., 2; M. from beautifully situated hill-town of Frosinone, and 9–10 M. from very curious old Alatri, with cyclopean walls; Ceprano stat., 2; M. from Ceprano, and the stat. for Falls of the Liris and Cicero’s Villa; Aquino, birth- place of Emperor Pescennius Niger, Juvenal, and Thomas Aquinas; Cassino (or S. Germano), a busy town, with Roman amphitheatre, Varro's Villa, and tombs (a climb of 1% hr. leads to the world-renowned and magnificent Benedictine monastery of Monte Cassino, with hospitable monks and peerless views); Teano, with a great castle and Roman remains; Capua, a town of 10,000 inhab., in broad plain of Campania Felice, with noble basilica, fortress, triumphal arch, and ancient chs.; and S. Maria, on site of ancient Capua, with amphitheatre for 100,000 persons, and other Ro- man ruins. The rly. runs thence over the vast and populous plain of the Terra di Lavoro, to Naples. Naples is a city of 450,000 inhab., with little of architectural or antiquarian interest, but blest with a . 372 NAPLES. – CHIAJA, superb situation, mild climate, and beautiful environs. * It is built on the amphitheatrical slopes of hills, shelter- ing it from the N. wind, and nearly bisected by the abrupt ridge of S. Elmo and Pizzofalcone. Its view includes a semicircle of azure sea, the villages around the bay, and many picturesque hills. The busy and crowded Via Roma, still popularly called by its old name of Via Toledo, runs N. 1; M. from Palazzo Reale, near the harbor. The vast and interesting : National Museum (open daily, 9–3, 11., children, # 1. ; no fees allowed; free, Sun. and ...?. is in old Spanish cavalry-barracks (1586), occupied by Univer- sity, 1616–1780. There is no good catalogue. See 1,600 ancient mural paintings, from Pompeii, etc.; epigraphic collection; hº range of rooms with Egyp- tian and Etruscan antiquities; finest existing collection of ancient bronzes, including Dancing Faun, Narcissus, Mercury, Sleeping Faun, and bust of Seneca; 18,000 small bronze objects from Pompeii, etc.; immense collec- tions of ancient glass, terra-cotta, Cumaean antiquities, numismatic objects; many marble and bronze statues, including Farnese Bull (restored by Michael Angelo), Farnese Hercules, Venus, Wounded Gladiator, Ocean, Flora, Nile, Farnese Juno, AEschines, Balbus ; famous mosaics of Battle of Issus and Triumph of Bacchus; great collection of papyri MSS., from Herculaneum; 7 rooms full of Greek and Italian vases; and gems, jewels, food, and silver plate from Pompeii. The Pic- ture Gallery has 800 paintings, Neapolitan, Tuscan, Bolognese, Roman, Venetian, German, and Flemish, including several by Raphael, Titian, and Correggio. The Library (open 8–2) has 200,000 vols., 4,000 MSS., and many valuable autographs. The Chiaja, seat of chief hotels for foreigners, is a narrow strip between the S. Elmo and Posilippo ridges NAPLES. 373 and the harbor, with pretty parks (music at evening) | along waterside. On E., projecting into the sea, is the black and gloomy Castel dell' Ovo (1154), often besieged, and now a prison. Thence Strada S. Lucia | leads to Arsenal, through busy and interesting scenes. Overhead is hill of Pizzofalcone, over which one may pass, by the lion-guarded Victory Column of the martyrs for liberty, and the Miranda Palace, to the centre of the city. The Palazzo Reale (its porter gives permits to all the Neapolitan royal palaces) was built in 1600, by order of Philip III. of Spain, and rebuilt in 1837–41. It is 554 ft. long, with grand staircase, throne-room, and many fine old paintings and carvings, and view of harbor from garden. Opposite, across handsome Piazza del Plebiscito, is S. Francesco di Paola, a copy of Roman Pantheon, with 30 marble Corinthian columns support- ing dome, altar covered with jasper and lapis lazuli, and many modern pictures. Near by, see Palace of Prince of Salerno (now the Prefecture), Foresteria Palace, and Canova's equestrian statues of the Bourbons, Charles III. and Ferdinand I. Alongside Palazzo Reale is Theatre of S. Carlo (1737), one of the largest in the world. See public scribes in arcades; and statues of Horse-Tamers, before palace-gardens. The great Cas- tel Nuovo, built by Charles of Anjou in 1283, and enlarged in 1442, 1546, and 1735, was the home of the Anjou and Aragon sovereigns, and the Spanish viceroys. See beautiful Triumphal Arch (1470), armory, and ch. of S. Sebastiano, with very famous picture. Close by, see Arsenal (1577); Porto Militare, with Italian iron-clads; busy Porto Grande — the shipping harbor; and Molo, along breakwater, with battery and light-house (ascend this, for view). Across the square before Castle stands handsome Municipal Palace. 374 NAPLES. — UNIVERSITY. S. Giacomo degli Spagnuoli (1540) has splendid mausoleum of Spanish Viceroy, Don Pedro de Toledo. Near by is beautiful fountain, erected in 1695 by Duke of Medina Celi; also, Incoronata ch. (1352), with in- teresting Giottesque frescos; and Palazzo Pondi, with picture-gallery. The Monte Oliveto Benedictine Monastery (1411), on Via di Roma, is now a market. Here Tasso dwelt in 1588. In ch. see many notable old tombs and pic- tures. In the rear, see S. Maria la Nuova (1268; restored in 1596), with famous frescos and tombs; and Post-Office, in beautiful old Palazzo Gravina (1500). Farther along Via di Roma, see Palazzo Maddaloni (now a bank), with richly frescoed hall; and Palazzo Angri (1773), once Garibaldi’s headquarters. Strada S. Trinità leads to r. towards Gesù Nuova ch. (1584), with many frescos (opposite is refectory of S. Chiara, with Giot- tesque frescos); S.Chiara (1310), with burial-chapel of Bourbons, splendid monument of Robert the Wise (1343), pulpit on 4 lions, and Madonna by Giotto; lofty and imposing S. Domenico (1285), on a square between palaces, and containing 27 princely chapels, rich in Renaissance art, alter of Florentine mosaic, tombs of , the Aragonese sovereigns, and of many nobles and prelates, banner and sword (and tomb) of Marquis of }. (Wittoria Colonna's husband), and many pictures; cell and lecture-room of Thomas Aquinas (1272); Chapel of S. Severo (1590), crowded with decoration, and containing remarkable sculptures of Man in the Net and Christ in Winding-Sheet; SS. Angelo e Nilo (1385); University (1224), in old Jesuit College, with 5 faculties, and very goo library (open 9–3); S. Severino e Sosio, with notable tombs and frescos, and beautiful cloisters in rear (adja- . cent Benedictine monastery has priceless archives of . NAPLEs. 375 Naples, 40,000 parchments, beginning A.D. 703); Pa- lazzo Santangelo (1466), with picture-gallery; Cas- tello Capuano (1231), once home of Hohenstaufen kings, and seat (after 1540) of Spanish and present law-courts; and Capuan Gate (restored in 1535), a noble piece of architecture. The Cathedral, not far from the Gate, was built 1272–1316, on site of Temple of Neptune. It is a basilica, with shrine and tomb of St. Januarius, many frescos, and tombs of 2 popes, 2 kings of Hungary, etc. Adjacent is S. Resti- tuta, a basilica with Corinthian columns, and baptistery attributed to Constantine (A.D. 333); also, magnificent Chapel of St. Januarius (1608), rich in gold and sil- ver, precious stones, and other adornments, and en- shrining the blood of the saint. l; M. beyond Capuan Gate are the great cemeteries, the New, with Doric ch., Gothic monastery, and 102 chapels; the Old, with 365 closed vaults for the burial of the poor; and the Protes- tant, with many English and American graves. Between Castello Capuano and harbor, see SS. An- nunziała (1757); Porta Nolana; the huge Castello del Carmine (1484), now a barrack and prison; S. Maria del Carmine, with tomb and noble statue of King Conradin; Piazza del Mercato (where Conradin was executed, in 1268), with 3 fountains; Carmine Gate, With 2 massive towers; and a very extensive quarter, with scores of narrow and sinuous streets, crowded with picturesque Neapolitans, macaroni-pedlers, story. tellers, fishermen, etc. S. Giovanni a Carbonara (1344), N. of Cathedral, has splendid mausoleum of King Ladislaus (1414). Farther N. are Botanical Gardens and vast Poor-House. Between Cathedral and Via di Roma, see S. Filippo Neri (1592), rich in paintings; S. Paolo Maggiore º: in whose cloisters are man ancient Roman columns; S. Lorenzo (1266), with 376 CASTEL SANT’ ELMO. many frescos and fine cloisters (Petrarch and Boccaccio have been here); the Gothic S. Pietro a Maiella (1316), with monastery adjacent, now a school of music, where Bellini was taught, and Mercadante was director. Opposite Museum stands Gimnasio Vittorio Emanuele (1757), with 26 statues, and a statue of Dante in front. From 8th-century ch. of S. Gennaro, enter the Cata- combs (fee, ll.), excavated by ancient Christians, and much broader and higher than those at Rome. Myriads of dead have been buried here. Farther out is Capodimonte Palace (fee, 11.), built for the Bourbon kings (1738–1839), with long lines of state- rooms, many pictures, rich furniture, a large garden, and lovely views. # M. distant is the Observatory, on far-viewing crest of Capodimonte. Castel Sant' Elmo (1343), 876 ft. above the bay, is reached by a street from the Museum. It is a vast and ponderous fortress (now military prison) overlook- ing the city and sea. Close by is old Carthusian monastery of S. Martino (now part of National Mu- seum; open 9–5; ll.), built in 1325. See museum of majolica, ivories, etc.; very beautiful cloisters, sur- rounded by white-marble columns, and adorned with statues; and magnificent ch, lined with choice marbles and mosaics, and adorned with famous paintings. Exquisite views from this monastery. Excursions from Naples.—Beyond the Chiaja and Villa Nazionale, with their statues, temples, and aquarium, the Mergellina extends along the shore, under Posilippo, with beautiful sea-views, and by nu- merous villas, and the insulated 17th-century Palace of Donna Anna (now in ruins). Near the Chiaja stands ancient ch., in which is the great mausoleum of the #. Sannazaro. The road W. from the Chiaja leads hrough Grotta di Posilippo, a well-lighted tunnel in ITALY. 377 the rock, ; M. long, 20–90 ft. high, 30 ft. wide, cut through by Augustus, and mentioned by Seneca. Over its E. end is so-called Tomb of Virgil (; l.), a Roman tomb with recesses for urns. Petrarch and King Robert visited this spot, and planted laurel. Near by was Virgil’s villa, where he wrote the Eclogues and Georgics. Road through tunnel leads to Grotto of Sejanus (ll.), a tunnel cut through the rocky ridge by Nerva (B.C. 37), and repaired by Honorius (A.D. 400). It is # M. long, and higher and wider than Posilippo tunnel. Near by, see many remains of villas of Lucul- lus, Pollio, and other Roman lords. Also, on islet of Nisida, site of villa where Cicero visited Brutus (B.C. 44), after he had killed Caesar; and afterwards of Queen Johanna II.’s villa (15th century). The Lake of Anagno (a crater; now drained) is # M. from Fuorigrotta (where see tomb of Leopardi, in ch.); and near by are singular ancient baths of sulphurous gas; also, Grotto del Cane, famous for carbonic-acid, whose effects are tried on unhappy dogs. It is 6 M. from Naples over this road to Pozzuoli, on site of Greek colony conquered by Rome, and later chief port of Italy, and depôt of Oriental trade. Here Sylla died; Hadrian was buried; St. Paul sojourned 7 days; and Cicero had a villa. See remnants of Temples of Serapis (formerly very splendid), Neptune (pillars rising from sea), and the Nymphs; many Roman tombs; Piscina Grande, a great reservoir; Capuchin monastery (1580); Roman quay, now called Bridge of Caligula; Cathedral, with tomb of Pergolesi; and Amphitheatre (; l.), seating 30,000, where Nero gave gladiatorial combats before the King of Armenia, and St. Januarius was exposed to the lions. Near by, see Solfatara, a low crater with warm earth, hot alum springs, and many fissures whence gases rise (last eruption of lava 378 BAIA. — CUMAE. in 1198); and Monte Nuovo, a volcanic hill (now vine- yards) thrown up in 1538. To the W. lies Lake Lucrinus, whence the Romans obtained their best oys- ters, and the Neapolitans get choice fish. Lake Aver- nus, a picturesque crater-pond, 1; M. around, amid chestnut and orange groves, was held to be the entrance to the infernal regions, until Augustus made it a harbor by cutting a canal to the bay. The fabled entrance to Hades is shown in adjacent Grotto of the Sibyl (11.), a tunnel 840 ft. long. The Grotta della Pace, # M. long, leads from W. shore towards Cumae, cutting through intervening ridge. The Baths of Nero are long rock-passages, containing hot springs, in whose waters eggs may be cooked. Baia (Regina) was the most magnificent of summer- resorts in time of Cicero, Augustus, and Hadrian, and was praised by Horace. The Saracens destroyed it; and the Spanish viceroys built a castle and light-house on the site. Here are massive ruins of temples of Venus, Diana, and Mercury, villas of Julius Cæsar, Nero, and Hortensius, a splendid Roman reservoir, and other remnants of antiquity. To the S. is Cape Mi- seno, near site of great Roman naval station of Misenum, and commanding a superb view. 1 M. from Baia is Lake of Fusaro, l; M. N. of which are ruins of great Cumae, which was founded by Greeks (B.C. 1050), and had profound influence in Italy, founding Naples, giving the Sibylline books to Rome, receiving the Tarquins, defeating the Etruscans, and finally con- quered by the Samnites and Romans. The Goths restored it, but the Moslems destroyed the town; and 6 centuries ago the Neapolitans annihilated it, as a den of pirates. Near by, see Acropolis, with fortifications and noble views; half-buried Amphitheatre ; fragments of old temples; and huge brick arch of Arco Felice, 64 ft. high. VESUVIUS. — HERCULANEUM. 379 Pozzuoli, Baia, Cumae, etc., may be seen in 1 day by carriage (251.; 1-horse carriage, 10–12 l.). Take guide from Naples (5 l.), to escape local annoyances. Mount Vesuvius is about 4,000 ft. high, and 30 M. around, isolated on the Plain of Campania, and with 80,000 people living in its chestnut valleys. In A.D. 79 it had a terrible volcanic eruption (described by Pliny and Tacitus), since which 60 or more have occurred, entailing vast losses of life and the annihi- lation of many villages and cities. Enormous losses were caused by the eruption of 1872. Of a crowd which watched its beginning, 20 persons were swept away and destroyed by the outbursting lava. The mt.- rly. now obviates much of the labor formerly necessary in ascent. Beautiful view from Observatory, and from summit you can see Naples, Baia, Ischia, Capri, the Campanian plain, the Apennines, and a vast area of sea. When Vesuvius is quiet, the crater may be entered. Herculaneum, founded by Hercules, and later a town of Roman villas, was buried by an eruption of Vesuvius, A.D. 79, and discovered in 1719, when a well was being dug. Since then, excavations have shown that 40-90 ft. beneath the present town & Resina is a large and splendid ancient city, whose statues, mural paintings, papyri, etc., are adorning the mu- seums. It was richer than Pompeii, but is much more deeply buried, and under a more impenetrable covering. Little has yet been excavated, but that little should be seen (21. for guide and torch). The residences and shops excavated in 1868 are very interesting; the theatre, though immense in size, is too dark to i. well Seen. Pompeii (Hôtel Diomede) is nearly 1 hr. from Naples (5 trains daily; fares, 21. 75 c., 11. 90 c., ll. 10 c.), by rly, passing through Portici (12,000 380 POMPEII. inhab.); Resina, near La Favorita, royal château, and at foot of Vesuvius; and Torre del Greco, swept by 4 streams of lava within 300 years. Beautiful views of bay and volcano. Read about Pompeii before going there. Near Pompeii stat. is entrance to ruins (21. ; guide furnished; no gratuity; stay as long as you like). Pompeii was a Greek commercial city (B.C. 400–500), which was subjugated by Rome, and became a favorite resort of her nobles and emperors (with 25,000 i. It was overthrown by earthquake, A.D. 63; rebuilt immediately; and in 79 buried under 20 ft. of ashes from Vesuvius, when 2,000 citizens lost their lives. Excavations were begun in 1748, and are still going on. The walls are l; M. around, with 8 gates. The streets are 14-24 ft. wide, paved with deeply rutted lava blocks, with stepping-stones and fountains at cor- mers. The concrete or brick lower stories of houses remain; the other stories were burnt. The shops, taverns, homes, street-notices, etc., are very interesting. Note Temple of Venus ; Forum, where main streets converged, with Temple of Jupiter, Prison, Basilica, Triumphal Arch, Public Granary, Temple of Mercury, beautiful Chalcidicum, Town Hall, Temple of Augustus. See House of Wild Boar in Street of Abundance; Triangular Forum ; the two Theatres; barracks of the soldiers; House of Sculptor; Stabia Gate; Temple of Isis; House of Holconius; vast amphitheatre, which seated 20,000. Thence visit Stabian Therma, Balcony House, Houses of Siricus and Marcus Lucreţius, of the Chase, of Ariadne, of Grand Duke of Tuscany, of Figured Capitals, of Black Walls ; Temple of Fortune; Public Baths; House of Faun, in Fortune street; House of Anchor, of Tragic Poet (which Bulwer describes in Last Days of Pompeii); the Fuller's Shop; Great and Little Fountains; House of Pansa, of Labyrinth, of CASERTA. — SORRENTO. 381 Castor and Pollua, of Centaur, of Meleager, Adonis, Apollo; Academy of Music; Bake-house; Soap-shop; Barber's Shop; Custom House ; Street of Tombs ; and Villa of Diomedes (where several bodies were found), beyond Herculaneum Gate. There are many curiosities in the museums, especially casts of the bodies found in the ruins. You may ride hence on horseback (l; hrs.) to cairn of stones on Vesuvius; whence climb (1 hr. on foot) to summit (guide and horse, 10.1.). Caserta (Wittoria), about 20 M. from Naples, on rly. to Rome, has a magnificent Royal Palace (1752), 834 ft. long and wide, and 134 high, with colonnaded courts, famous gardens and cascades, beautiful views, and sumptuous apartments. See chapel, highly en- riched with lapis lazuli and gold; and theatre, with 16 antique Corinthian columns of African marble. No one should leave Naples without having visited Sorrento, Amalfi, and Salerno. Rly. in 1 hr. (31. 10 c., 2 l. 15 c., ll. 25 c.), along shore of bay, to Castella- mare (Hötel Royal ; ...} a famous Neapolitan summer-resort and Italian naval station (22,000 inhab.), near overwhelmed ruins of Stabiae, and with 13th-cem- tury castle, royal château of Quisisana (on the hill), and Monte S. Angelo, 5,000 ft. high, with superb view (guide and donkey, 51.). Here also are famous sul- phurous and ferruginous springs. An excellent road (7; M.; carriage, 51.) between the mts. and Bay, leads hence, by Vico and Meta, and a delicious paradise of orange and olive groves, to Sorrento (Gran Bretagna ; D'Angleterre; Tasso, where Tasso was born, 1544; Sirena y Villa Nardi; Tramontano), an ancient seaport on Bay of Naples, famous for exquisite scenery, and delightfully cool summer-climate (it faces N.)... Quaint villages, ancient chs., natural curiosities, villas and convents, glens and myrtle-groves, rocky islets and 382 CAPRI. — ISCHIA. oints, make this region very charming. Steamboats eave Naples (S. Lucia) at 9 A.M., daily, for Sorrento (61. ; return-tickets, 101), Capri (81. ; return, 121.), and Ischia. Boat from Sorrento to Capri, 51, in 2 hrs. (bad trip in rough weather). Capri (Tiberio and Quisisana, both kept by English people; Inghilterra, at landing-place), the “Island of Goats,” is 4; M. long, with almost unbroken lines of cliffs, and far-viewing mts. 2,000 ft. high. There are 3–4,000 inhab., mostly farmers and coral-fishers. Au- gustus and Tiberius built many villas and palaces here. In 1803 Capri was strongly fortified by the English; but Murat captured it, 5 years later. On E. see ruins of Villa of Tiberius, and the cliff, 700 ft. high, called Salfo di Tiberio, whence the cruel Emperor forced his victims to leap into the sea. Near by is an inn. See Natural Arch; Grotto of Mithras; lofty village of Anacapri, with Barbarossa’s castle; and Monte Solaro, with superb view. The most celebrated of the caverns is the Blue Grotto, 106 by 80 ft. in area, and 40 ft. high, partly filled by beautifully azure sea-water, and lighted and entered only by a low and narrow aperture, where the sea beats against the cliff (boat, 21. for 2 persons; 11, for each additional). The White, Red, Green, and Stalactite Grottos are also visited by boat. Ischia is a fertile island 15 M. around, with 30,000 inhab., devoted to vineyards and fisheries, with delight- ful summer-climate, castle of Alfonso I. of Aragon, lovely village of Casamicciola (lately damaged by earth- quake), and grand view from top of quiescent volcano of Epomeo. Ischia has been ravaged by Romans, Saracens, Pisans, Neapolitans, and French; and was the home of Vittoria Colonna and Maria of Aragon. Boat from Naples in 2 hrs. (fares, 51., 3}l.). Pro- SALERNO. — PAESTUM. — AMALFI. 383 cida is a neighboring volcanic island, 3 M. long, with 14,000 inhab., originally settled, like Capri and * Ischia, by Greeks. Salerno (Vittoria; D’Angleferre) is a picturesque old provincial capital (22,000 inhab.), 33%. M. from Naples (rly, fares, 6 l. 15 c., 4; l., 21.45 c.), fronting on a magnificent bay, with fine quay, 1; M. long, irregular mediaeval streets, ancient Lombard castle, and delightfully quaint old Cathedral (1084), with many antique columns, sarcophagi, and mosaics, and tombs of St. Matthew, Pope Gregory the Great, Mar- garet of Anjou, etc. The University was very cele- brated in Middle Ages (see Longfellow's Golden Legend). Paestum, 23 M. from Salerno, by highway over dull shore-plains, founded by Greeks, B.C. 600, and destroyed by Saracens, is a collection of the finest | Greek ruins in existence (out of Athens), including Temple of Neptune, 189 by 84 ft., with 52 fluted Doric columns; Temple of Ceres, 105 by 45 ft., with 34 fluted columns; and Basilica, 177 by 80 ft., with 60 | columns; well-preserved travertine town-walls, 3 M. around; amphitheatre, Roman temple, street of Greek tombs. Paestum is now free from brigands. Amalfi (Dei Cappuccini ; Luna), a lovely village (6,000 inhab.), where a greatmt.-gorge opens on the Gulf of Salerno, was once a flourishing commercial republic, rivalling Genoa and Pisa, but yielded to armies of Naples in 1131. . Near the Marina quay is the 11th- century Cathedral, with campanile and cloisters, rich mosaics and Byzantine bronze doors, and tomb of St. Andrew. Above is Capuchin Monastery (1212), 400 ft. above sea, with handsome cloisters and superb views. l; hr.’s climb leads to Ravello (once 30,000 inhab., now l,500), with magnificent 11th-century cathedral and Rufalo Palace (here Pope Adrian IV. and Robert the 384 SICILY. — MESSINA. Wise lived), both in rich Saracenic architecture, and other notable chs. Amalfi may be reached from Sorrento, by boat and path, in 5 hrs. It is better to go there from Salerno (13–2 hrs. ; 1-horse carriage, 5–6 l.), : over one of the noblest roads in the world, through 6 - villages, amid vineyards and orange and lemon groves, by Charles W.’s anti-Saracenic watch-towers, with wonderful sea-views from the lofty galleries and cliffs along its course. - sº Sicily. This beautiful island may be conveniently visited from Naples, whence steamships run, several times weekly, to Palermo and Messina (15–22 hrs. ; fares, 40 l. 60c., 24 l. 60 c., to either port), passing Capri, Stromboli, and the Lipari Isles, Travellers can avoid sea-trip by uncomfortable 36-hrs. (297 M) ty, ride from Naples through Salerno ; , Eboli ; Cosenza (Alaric's grave), with 18,000 inhab. ; Tiriolo; lofty Monteleone, with 10,000 inhab. ; Mileto, whence Sicilian mts. are seen; : Palmi ; and Scilla, where 1,500 persons were killed . by earthquake of 1783 (and near Homer's Scylla); to Reggio, a very beautiful city of 16,000 inhab. Ferry : hence to Messina in # hr. (; l.). º French steamers run from Marseilles to Palermo in 50 hrs. Italian boats from Genoa to Palermo in 33 tº hrs. Steamers run around Sicily weekly, from Pa- lermo, touching at chief ports. º Messina (Hötel Bellevue; Vittoria ; Venezia; Trinacrio; Di Francia), the chief commercial town of Sicily (112,000 inhab.), has a magnificent situation on an amphitheatrical slope, over a secure and well-forti. fied harbor. . It was founded by the Greeks, B. c. 732; conquered by Samos, Athens (B.C. 427), Carthage SICILY. — CATANIA. 385 (396 and 270), Mamertines, Rome, Saracens, Normans, English (Coeur de Lion), Spaniards, French, and Ital- ians; and often ravaged by fire, plague, and earthquake. These evil days have left it but few antiquities. The Norman Cathedral (1098) has 26 antique columns, mosaics, royal tombs, and Sarcophagi; and in front is splendid Montorsoli Fountain (1647–51). See Nor- man S. Maria dei Catalani, on site of Temple of Nep- tune and Moslem mosque; University, with library and picture-gallery (open 9–4; ; l.); S. Stefano, with tombs of Frenchmen killed at Sicilian Vespers; hand- some and well-kept business streets; and ancient for- tresses (1540) on heights, with beautiful views. From Messina a brief trip may be made to Athens, French steamers weekly in 48 hrs. > Rly. hence in 3 hrs. (60 M.; fares, 10% l., 7 l. 55 c., 5 l. 40 c.); by Taormina (Giardini stat.), with grand ruins of a Greek theatre (whence famous view), acropolis and castle, and ducal palace; across lava fields of AEtna; and by Aci-Reale, scene of adventures of Polyphemus, and Acis and Galatea; to Catania (Catania ; Corona di Ferro ; Orient ; Fran- cia), the handsomest and most cultured city in Sicil (85,000 inhab.), by the seaside, at foot of AEtna, j rich in palaces and villas, embowered in groves of orange. It was founded by Greeks, B.C. 730; and conquered by Athens, Carthage, Rome, the Goths, Byzantines, Saracens, Germans, and Spaniards. See Cathedral (1091), with tombs of 6 Aragonese sover- eigns, and of St. Agatha ; S. Carcere, with relics; cloisters and gardens, museum, library and ch. of Benedictine Monastery ſ S. Nicola, than which there is but one more splendid in the world (all its monks are of noble blood); underground remains of Graeco- Roman Theatre and Odeum (fee, 2 l.); Roman Baths - - 25 - 386 MOUNT AETNA. — SYRACUSE. and Amphitheatre ; Roman Tombs; University (1444), 500 students; and public gardens of Willa Bellini, , with Italian statues. Mount AEtna (10,400 ft. high) may be ascended hence, by carriage (25 hrs.), to Wicolosi (20–25 1. . there and back); whence 8 hrs. by lodge of Casa º Inglese to summit (guide, 10 l. ; mule, 10 i.); return from top to Catania, 8-9 hrs. It is best to sleep at . Casa Inglese (at base of cone of crater), and reach summit before sunrise. There have been 80 recorded : eruptions, one of which (1693) destroyed 80,000 lives. : In 1874 the last occurred. The view includes all Sicily and surrounding seas, Calabria, Lipari Isles, and Malta. Rly. from Catania (54M.; 9 l. 85 c., 6 l. 90 c., . 4 l. 95 c.) to º Syracuse (Wittoria ; Sole; Atma), once the most important city in the Greek world, which is now a quiet modern port (22,000 inhab.), with very charming envi- rons, a noble harbor, narrow and crooked streets, and beautiful women who wear picturesque costumes. It was founded by Corinthians, B.C. 734; defeated the Carthaginians and Etruscans; repulsed the besieging Athenian fleet and army (B.C. 414–13), with terrible losses; beat off frequent attacks from Carthage; entertained AEschylus, Pindar, Simonides, etc.; and was defended by Archimedes against the Romans (B.c. : 214–12), but fell and was nearly annihilated. Paul and tº Marcian preached here. It has since been ravaged by Franks, Byzantines, Normans, and Spaniards; and has never recovered from the Moslem destruction in 878. The inhabitants still preserve the Greek type. See Cathe- dral, on site of Temple of Minerva, with remarkable font and leaning pillars; Museum (open 9–1, 3–5), with fine Greek Venus, and other antiquities; Foun- tain of Arethusa, famed in Greek mythology, and still PALERMO. 387 surrounded by papyrus plants; ruins of Temple of Diana; Castle ; and Montalto Palace. On mainland near by, see scanty remains of ancient Syracuse : Amphitheatre; Latomiae, or quarries once worked by slaves; grotto called Ear of Dionysius; Greek Theatre (480–406 B.C.); Fountain of Cyane, amid growing papyri ; fragments of Temple of Zeus Olympius ; etc. Weekly steamers hence to Malta in 8 hrs. Palermo (Hôtel de France ; Trinacria; Des Palines; Centrale), the capital of Sicily (229,000 inhab.), is very beautifully situated between Mt. Pellegrino and Cape Zaffarana, facing the sea, and has mild winters and intensely hot summers. It was settled from Phoenicia, strengthened from Greece, fortified by Carthage, cap- tured by Rome, and governed in succession by the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Germans, French, and English. On the beautiful Marina and La Flora prome- nades the Sicilian people of fashion congregate. The Cathedral (1169–85) is a great and imposing ch., with tombs of the Sicilian kings, and of Emperor Fred- erick II. ; immense silver sarcophagus containing remains of St. Rosalia; many statues and carved choir- stalls; and crypt, with tombs of ancient archbishops. La Martorana ch. (12th century) has curious old Greek mosaics, Corinthian columns, and a tall campanile. See also S. Cataldo (1161), a Sicilian-Norman ch. ; S. Giovanni degli Eremiti, in form of letter T, with 5 domes, and cloisters; gorgeously ornamented Jesuits’ ch, ; Norman S. Francesco d’Assisi ; and S. Domenico (1640), which can hold 12,000 persons. The Museum (open 10–3; 11.) contains many Sicilian-Greek statues and sarcophagi, Pompeian antiquities, and a picture- gallery, mainly composed of paintings by old Sicilian masters. The Royal Palace is Saracenic, with notable apartments added by King Roger, Robert Guiscard, 388 PALERMO. — MONREALE. Manfred, and Emperor Frederick II. Here also is magnificent Cappella Palatana (1132), the finest eastle- chapel in the world, a basilica with Egyptian-granite columns, Saracenic arches, mosaics on gold, and many Arabian inscriptions. Superb view from Observatory. . The great cloisters of the Spedale Grande (1330) are : covered with frescos. Note Gothic windows of Archi- sº episcopal Palace ; large Municipal Palace ; University ; ; National Library (open 9–2); spacious and sº Paternò Palace ; Palace of the Tribunals (1307), long the home of the Inquisition; Ganzia Monastery; rich Botanical Garden; and Porta Nuova, triumphal arch for Charles W.’s solemn entry after his victory at Tunis. Monreale, 5 M. out, beyond Palace of Duc d’Au- male, elegant, old Saracenic palace of Cubola, Capuchin Monastery where Palermitan patricians are kept em- balmed, and rich gardens of Willa Tasca, is a large town which has risen around the Cathedral, founded by William II. in 1170. It is 333 × 132 ft. in area, with superb entrance; bronze doors (1186); Saracenic arches; cloisters supported on 216 columns; and over 60,000 square ft. of magnificent, mosaics, scriptural and historical. Monreale is 1231 ft. above the sea, and commands famous views. More than 1,200 ft. above is venerable Benedictine Monastery of S. Martino, with library, museum, and views. The celebrated Monte Pellegrino can be ascended in 2 hrs. See shrine and grotto of St. Rosalia, and immense sea-view. La Favorita is a splendid royal villa, beyond the so-called English Garden. Nearly 3 M. out is S. Maria di Gesä, a large suppressed monastery, with favorite view of Palermo. Ancient Saracenic villas and châteaux of modern Sicilian nobles abound in the environs. From Palermo it is 96 M. by rly. (15%l., 10 l. 70 c., 71.65 c.) to GIRGENTI. —CIVITA VECCHIA. 389 Girgenti (Hôtel Centrale; Empedocles), chief town on S. coast of Sicily (20,000 inhab.). On mt. near by are ruins of Acragas (Agrigentum), which Pindar called “the most beautiful city of mortals.” It was founded by Cretans; had 200,000 inhab., and vast wealth; was destroyed by Carthage; and became a Roman colony. Here are fairly preserved ruins of Temples of Juno (with 34 columns), Hercules (38 columns), Concord (34 columns), Zeus (37 huge columns), and others; and Walls, gates, cloacae, catacombs, tombs, etc., in great numbers. Leghorn, Pisa, Lucca, Genoa, Monaco. Tourists who have reached Naples by rly. had best return N. by sea. The Fraissinet steamships leave Naples twice weekly for Cività Vecchia, Leghorn, Genoa, and Marseilles. Cività Vecchia (Orland; ; Europa) is a fortified º of 7,000 inhab., founded by Trajan, and destroyed y Saracens (in 828). Fortress built after plans by Michael Angelo. Rly. across Maremma to Leghorn. Rly. to Rome, 50%. M., in 2 hrs. (fares, 91.20 c., 61.40 c., 41.60 c.). Time of voyage from Naples, 12–14 hrs. A voyage of 12 hrs., by Elba, leads hence to Leg- horn (Anglo-American Hotel ; Grand Bretagna ; New York ; Victoria and Washington), one of the chief Mediterranean ports (over 100,000 inhab.), fortified, well-built, and modern. It was founded by the Medici family, as a refuge for the oppressed. See English Cemetery, with Smollett's tomb; fine statues of 3 Tuscan Grand-Dukes; venerated sailors' ch. on Monte Nero ; piers and quays, with busy and chattering crowds; and andsome squares and Corso. Rly. to Pisa, 12 M. (21.5 c., 11.40 c., 11.). 390 PISA. Pisa (Hôtel Royal Vittoria ; Arno ; Europa ; D'An- gleterre ; Roma, Minerva; Washington ; De la Ville) : is a quiet and beautiful town (50,000 inhab.) near the mouth of the Arno, and 50 M. from Florence (fares, 81.80c., 61. 20 c.). . . It was conquered by Rome, B.C. 180; adorned with temples by Augustus and Ha- drian; became a rival of Venice and Genoa in Middle Ages; defeated the Saracens in many naval battles; became anti-Papal, and was defeated by Genoa; and since 1406 has been subject to Florence. It is very hot in summer, but the mildness of its winters attracts many Northern visitors to the quaint and sombre old town. It is surrounded by picturesque walls; and has 3 bridges, and a fine quay along the Arno, on and near || which you may see, on N. side, many palaces and chs., . including 13th-century S. Michele ; University (1493), with Renaissance court (statue of Galileo) .." valuable library; Alla Giornata, Vitelli and Royal Palaces; S. Niccolo (1000), once Benedictine, with statue of Fer. . dinand I. in front; and Guelphic fortress, near Ponte : a Mare. On S. shore, 12th-century S. Paolo, with handsome old façade; Benedictine monastery; Gam- : bacorti Palace, now custom-house; S. Maria della Spina (1230), a beautiful marble Gothic chapel, with fragment of Crown of Thorns; round S. Sepolcro ; and . the Fortress. Back from the river, on N., see S. Fran- ; cesco (1300), with campanile; Botanical Garden and Natural-History Museum ; S. Sisto (1089); and Piazza dei Cavalieri, the old Republican forum. Here stand Palazzo de' Cavalieri, with statues, and S. Stefano (1565), ch. of Knights of St. Stephen, with Turkish trophies and notable paintings. The adjacent Acad- emy of Fine Arts (open 9–2) was founded by Napo- leon I., and contains many good Pisan and Florentine paintings. Lord Byron lived a long time in Palazzo PISA. 391 Lanfranchi. S. Caterina (1253) has interesting pictures, and stands in a pleasant square, near the old Roman baths and the Lucca Gaće. In the remote N. W. corner of Pisa is a wonderful group of mediaeval, buildings, nearly surrounded by gardens and the wall. The Cathedral, 311 × 106 ft. in area, and 109 ft. high in the nave, was founded in 1067, to commemorate defeat of Moslems at Palermo, and consecrated by Pope Gelasius II. in 1118. It is in magnificent Tuscan-Gothic architecture, of white and colored marbles, with remarkable façade of columns and ... arches, double aisles, and dome lined with Cimabue's mosaics. Inside are 65 antique columns (trophies of Pisan conquests), a splendidly gilded ceiling, bronze doors designed by John of Bologna, 12 altars designed by Michael Angelo, carved pulpit by Niccolò Pisano, altars enriched with silver and lapis lazuli, many rare pictures, and swinging bronze lamp from which Galileo got the idea of the pendulum. . . In front is the finest, Baptistery in the world. It is round (120 ft. in diameter, and 180 ft. high); in Roman-Tuscan (1153–1278) and Gothic styles; of * marble; and surrounded with ancient columns. Inside, see six-sided pulpit on 7 columns, with 6 reliefs by | Niccolò Pisano, and handsome font. The Leaning Tower (1174–1250), or Campanile, behind Cathedral, is 179 ft. high, in 8 stories, sur- rounded by colonnades, and containing 7 bells. It is * 14 ft. out of the perpendicular. Grand view from top, of the Apennines, the coast, Elba, and Corsica. * The Campo Santo (open daily; # 1.) is an enclos- ure filled with scores of shiploads of sacred earth from Jerusalem, and tºº to burial of great men. | The cloistered hall which surrounds it was built 1278–83, by John of Pisa, and is 424 ft, long and 145 392 LUCCA. — CARRARA. ft. broad, with 62 beautiful windows opening on the verdant court within. The walls are decorated with wonderful and curious 14th-century frescos of early Bible history and the Triumph of Death, some of which are attributed to Giotto and Orcagna. There are many splendid monuments in these corridors, to Emperor Henry VII, Gregory XIII., Catalani, etc.; and sculp- tures by Mino da Fiesole, John of Pisa, Luca della Robbia, Dupré, and Thorwaldsen. Eccursions from Pisa. — To summer-resort of Baths of Gowbo, near which Shelley was drowned. To La Certosa, a Carthusian monastery, 6 M. out, on the Pisan Mts. To Basilica of S. Pietro in Grado - #: 1000), 3 M. out, where St. Peter landed in taly. Rly. in 13 M. to s Lucca (Universo; Sole; Croce di Malta), a beauti- ful old walled city (64,000 inhab.), on a rich plain, and embowered in groves. A splendid Roman municipium, . it afterwards became Gothic, Lombard, Frankish, ducal, republican, Pisan, and Tuscan; and was home of . Dante, and principality of Napoleon’s sister. See : sumptuous Romanesque Cathedral (1060–70), very : rich in art; 7th-century Basilica of S. Frediano, built by Lombard kings, with rare old pictures; chs. of S. Giovanni, S. Romano, S. Francesco, and S. Michele, and old palaces; and walk around fine old ramparts. The Baths of Lucca (Hötel de l’Europe; D’Angleterre; , New York; Pavilion; Queen Victoria), 12 M. N., among the Apennines, are a collection of 19 sulphu- retted ferruginous springs. This has been a famous health-resort for centuries. Pisa to Genoa, by rly., 1024 M. (fares, 181. 15 c., 13 l. 60 c., 10 l.). Sea-passage, Leghorn to Genoa, 9 hrs. The rly. lies between Apennines and sea, passing Carrara, a beautiful town of 23,000 inhab. . SPEZIA. — GENOA. 393 (mostly sculptors and marble-workers), embowered in groves of chestnut, olive, orange, and lemon trees, and 2 hrs. from great marble-quarries, where 6,000 men are employed. La Spezia (Hôtel Royal; Croce di Malta; Italia ; Milan) is the chief Italian naval port, strongly fortified and well equipped (24,000 inhab.), and was commended by Strabo as one of the vastest and best ports in the world. Many visitors come in summer for the sea-baths; and in winter, for the mild climate. Pleasant trip to Porto Venere (1% hr.). The rly. goes on, by Sestri Levante and Lavagna, along shore of Mediterranean, with charming views, and through many tunnels. Genoa (Hôtel Isotta; Trombetta; De la Ville; * D'Italie et Croia de Malfe : De France ; Genova Quattro Nazioni; Concordia restaurant), called by its citizens La Superba, has 161,000 inhab., and is Italy’s chief commercial town. It was founded by Ligurians; became Roman; enriched itself in Crusades; conquered great Levantine domains; fought many wars with Venice, Pisa, and the Moslems; was torn for centuries by Guelph-Ghibelline civil wars; maintained itself as a republic from 10th century to 19th ; was annexed to * France in 1800; and in 1815 became Sardinian. It has more imposing marble palaces than any other city; but the streets are narrow, steep, and crooked. It presents a vast hemicycle of buildings, ranged alon the hills like seats in an amphitheatre, with bol Wooded heights above. Ramparts, 7 M. long, defend the city; and an outer line, 20 M. long, with towers and intrenchments, traverses the hills beyond. The º Harbor is sheltered by 2 long piers with light-houses; and separated from the town by a high arcaded wall, by which fishermen and sailors take their ease. At end near the chief hotels, there is a marble terrace 1,500 ft. 394 - GENOA. long and 45 ft. wide, affording pleasant view of harbor. Near by is handsome 16th-century Exchange, with statue of Cavour. The Custom House contains many statues of Genoese worthies in its main hall. Splendid view of city, sea, and Riviera from dome of S. Maria di Carignano, on high hill to S. E. The Cathedral (1100) is of alternate bands of . black and white marbles, with 16 Corinthian columns, sumptuous chapels, rare paintings, many statues, and the #. Grail. Near by, on Piazza Nuova, see white- marble town-hall, with statues (once Ducal Palace); and 16th-century Jesuits’ ch. of S. Ambrogio, with pic- tures by Guido and Rubens. Near by are S. Matteo (1278), with many sculptures and inscriptions of Doria family; Academy of Fine Arts, with pictures and statu- ary; 12th-century Gothic ch. of S. Stefano, with famous icture by Giulio Romano; and Pallavicini and Spinola É. The modern Via Balbi and Via Nuova are : streets of superb palaces, many of which have beautiful courtyards and staircases. Of these, notice 16th-cen- ; tury Municipio, with mosaic portraits of Columbus and . Marco Polo (and letters of former) in council hall; . Brignole-Sale, with 8 rooms full of old paintings (fee, ll.); Adorno (1500), with valuable pictures. Most of . the Genoese palaces were built by (or in manner of) Alessi, a pupil of Michael Angelo. The cruciform ºf Capuchin ch. of SS. Annunziata (1587), with fluted red- i. marble columns and frescoed dome, is very rich. Hence the Via Balbi, a broad modern street of palaces, leads to rly, stat., passing handsome old Palazzo Durazzo; University (1622), with museums, library (60,000 vols.), : and the finest courtyard and staircase in Genoa; Pa- lazzo Balbi, with large picture-gallery (fee, ll.); , Palazzo Durazzo and Royal Palace (open daily), with richly furnished halls, throne-room, and many pictures. . SAWONA. – SAN REMO. 395 In square by rly. stat., see fine monument to Columbus (1862), with several allegorical statues and reliefs. Beyond is Palace of Doria Princes, presented to An- drea Doria, “The Father of his Country,” in 1522, with splendidly frescoed halls, gardens, arcades, and statues. Eccursions from Genoa. —Villa Pallavicini (get permission at Durazzo Palace; open 2–3 P.M.; fee, 1–2 l.), with luxuriant park and gardens, magnificent views, grottos, kiosques, fountains, etc. (at Pegli stat., 7; M.; # hr. by rly.; fares, ll. 15 c., 80 c.). Campo Santo, 1; M. out, new and interesting. The famous Cornice road leads along the Riviera di Ponente from Genoa to Nice (128; M.), through some of the finest coast and hill scenery in the world. Steamboats from Genoa to Nice, in 8–9 hrs., nearly every day. Rly. from Genoa to Nice in 7–9 hrs. (116 M.; fares, 211.5 c., 141. 90 c., 101.65 c.), by slow and not very comfortable trains. The journey should be by day, as the route follows the Mediterranean coast through a | Succession of beautiful and historic towns and villages. | Take seat on r, as far as Savona; beyond which the best views are on the l. The line traverses many tun- nels, through rocky promontories. Savona (Pension Suisse; Italia ; Universo) is an ancient city (25,000 inhab.), whose fine harbor Genoa caused to be filled up, after conquering the town. Sixtus IV. and Julius II, were born here. See Cathe- dral (1604); S. Domenico, with triptych by Dürer; colossal statue of Virgin on tower by harbor. Rly. hence to Turin. § San Remo (Hôtel Victoria; D’Angleterre ; Grande Bretagne; Royal ; De Londres ; San Remo ; Bellevue; | De la Pair: Banker, Rubino) is a town of 10,000 396 BORDIGHERA, inhab., on hill-slopes covered with vineyards and groves of orange, lemon, olive, pomegranate, and palm trees. The climate is very mild, and attracts many English, American, German, and Russian families in winter. The town is a densely populated group of fortress-like mediaeval houses, with picturesque labyrinths of deep and narrow lanes. See very ancient Cathedral; lovely view from Assumption ch. ; ruined Borea Palace; and hermitage of S. Romolo. Bordighera (Hôtel d’Angleterre; Grand Hôtel de Bordighera) has a beautiful site, on a hill of palm-trees, rojecting into sea, with picturesque streets and houses. t was once capital of a republic. Ruffini laid the scene of his Dr. Antonio hereabouts. Climate is ex- ceptionally soft in winter, with bracing quality; and is delightful in spring and fall. Many Americans come here. See villa of Garnier, architect of Paris Opera- House; and palm-garden of Moreno. Ventimiglia (poor buffet at stat.) is the frontier-town, where baggage is examined and travellers change cars. Be sure that your baggage is put back on train. MENTONE. — MONACO. 397 SOUTHERN IFRANCE. Mentone, Nice, Cannes, Marseilles. ENTONE (Grand Hôtel de Menton ; Victoria ; Westminster; Du Midi ; Pension Camous; Pension Américaine; Bristol; Méditerranée , France ; Des An- glais ; De la Paia: ; Bellevue ; Grande Bretagne ; Mira- beau; Grand; De Russie). The old town keeps its feudal aspect, with narrow and winding streets, on a º dividing the bay. The new town is on a ong street, parallel with the hill. See grand view from ruins of Castle (1402); St. Julian Gate; Palazzo; and Public Garden. Climate more equable than at Nice or Cannes, and very tonic; and availed of by very many people with lung or bronchial troubles. Beautiful ex- cursions in vicinity. Cornice road hence to Nice (18%. M.; 3–4 hrs.) through most exquisite coast scenery. Near Monte Carlo stat. is famous Casino of Mo- naco (Hotel de Paris, with good restaurant; Beau Ri- vage ; De Russie), with magnificent palace for concerts, decorated theatre, very elaborate gardens, and Gaming Establishment (permit necessary). Great numbers of fashionables here, from December to May. Monaco (Hôtel d’Angleterre ; De France; De la Paiw) the capital of a £iºn principality, under rench protection, stands on a bold rock nearly sur- rounded by the sea. The ancient Palace of the Princes (open daily; small fee) has sumptuous rooms and good frescos. Bathing establishments at foot of rock, and new hotels. Pleasant promenades, mild winter climate, and sea-bathing in summer. Between Monaco and Nice 398 NICE. — CANNES. is Villafranca, winter headquarters of American navy in European waters. Nice (Hötel de Nice; Chauvain; Grande Bretagne ; ; Des Anglais ; Du Lua'embourg ; De la Méditerranée ; ; De France; Grand; hºindsor), a handsome and well- built city (50,000 inhab.), with an Italian aspect, is the chief of the fashionable winter-resorts on the Mediter- ranean coast, and has an extremely soft and agreeable climate, and lovely environs. England and Germany, Russia and America, send many invalids here. The brilliant winters are succeeded by very dull summers. It was originally a Greek colony; then Provençal, Savoyard, Sardinian, and French. Masséna was born in house No. 21 Quai St. Jean Baptiste; Garibaldi, º, at No. 4 Rue Cassini. Paganini died at No. 14 Rue de la Préfecture; Halévy, at No. 5 Rue de France. . The world-renowned Promenade des Anglais extends : along the bay for 1; M., bordered by beautiful villas and public establishments. See Place Masséna, with a bronze statue of Masséna; Jardin Publique, with palm groves and good band-music ; Place des Phociems, and antique Greek fountain; remains of Castle, on hill of . palm and orange groves, with magnificent view over . sea and mts.; old and new Höfels de Ville ; Palace of . Prefecture ; ancient Lascaris Palace ; Natural-History Museum ; Public Library; and Marble Cross. Many charming excursions to Willafranca, Montboron, Chá'. teau Weuſ, St. Pons, Cimiès, etc. (consult hotel-porters, most of whom speak English). It is, 6 hrs. hence, sº by express (26 fr. 70 c., 20fr. 75 c., 15 fr. 20 c.), to Marseilles. º Cannes (Hôtel Splendide, Des Princes, Du Midi, in the town; Gray and Albion, Gormet, De la Plage, De Californie, Pension Suisse, in E. quarter; Beau Séjour, . Provence, Paradis, Richemont, on the hills; Beau Site, TOULON. — MARSEILLES. 399 Bellevue, in W. quarter) is one of the most popular and attractive Mediterranean winter-resorts, sheltered from the winds, and frequented by people whose lungs are delicate. The English and Russians monopolize it, and the latter have many handsome villas in the vicinity. Magnificent sea-views, including the Iles de Lérins, where, on Ile S. Marguerite, the Man with the Iron Mask was imprisoned (1687–98), and Marshal Bazaine escaped (1874). On Ile S. Honorat, ruins of one of iſ the most famous mediaeval monasteries. Near Cannes is Antibes, a very picturesque old coast town, sur- rounded by walls and defended by a fort; and Golfe Jouan, where Napoleon landed from Elba. The Marseilles rly. goes on to Fréjus, with ruins of Roman theatre, amphitheatre, Gilded Gate, and aque- duct (25 M. long). From La Pauline stat. branch rly. to Hyères, a favorite health-resort in winter, with picturesque rocky islets off-shore and lofty mts. behind. Toulon (Grand Hôtel ; Victoria; De l’Univers; Du | Nord) is the chief French naval station (77,000 inhab.) on the Mediterranean, on a deep double harbor, sheltered by Cape Sepet, and defended by 11 forts. It beat off an Austrian and Italian army in 1707; but Bonaparte Wrested it from an English garrison in 1793. See Arsenal-gate, with statues; Maritime Museum; Puget's statue of Renown; prison, founded by Colbert in 1682, now dépôt of prisoners sentenced to transportation; Hotel de Wille, with sculptures, and in front a statue of Genius of Navigation; ancient Cathedral, with sculp- tures by Canova, Mignard, and Puget, and noble view from Batterie du Salut. It is 41; M. hence to , Marseilles (Hötel de Noailles; De Marseilles; Du Louvre et de la Pair; Des Colonies), the foremost mari- time city (313,000 inhab.) of France, which has a long and narrow inner harbor, with large modern docks out- 400 MARSEILLES. —CHATEAU D'IF. side. It was founded by Greeks or Phoenicians, B.C. 600, under the name of Massilia; defeated the Carthagin- * ians; established many colonies along the coast; was . conquered by Caesar, Visigoths, Franks, Saracens, and | Spaniards; and in 1481 was annexed to France. Here : were born Thiers, Gozlain, Puget, and Méry. The Marseillaise call their La Cannebière the finest street in the world. This line of streets runs N. W. from the ancient harbor, by the handsome Bourse, with statues of eminent pre-Christian Massilian (Greek) navigators; the Place Royale ; across the shady Cours de l’Athenée (statue of intrepid Bishop Belsunce), which leads to . Triumphal Arch, with sculptures of Napoleon’s victories, and to rly. Stat. ; across Cours St. Louis, which runs : under various names 2; M. to the N. E.; and out to Zoëlogical Garden, near which is the handsome Long- champs Museum (open, 10–4), where an Ionic colon- ; made joins the Natural-History Museum to the Picture- Gallery. * º See immense Docks; Canal, which cost $12,000,000; Ch. of Wötre Dame de la Garde, on steep and far-view- ing hill; splendid new Byzantine Cathedral; old Ca- . thedral, on ruins of Temple of Diana; palatial Hôtel de la Préfecture; and Palais de Justice. º: In suburbs, visit noble Corniche road. The Château º d'If, built by Francis I. on an island in the harbor, was made famous by Dumas's Monte Cristo. Steamships of Messageries Maritimes, Walery Frères, Fraissinet & Co., and other lines, make Marseilles their chief port, and run to Messina, Athens, and Constantinople; to Syra, Smyrna, Constantinople, and Odessa,— returning by Athens and Naples; to Salonica; to Naples and Alexandria; to Port Said, Jaffa, Beyrout, and Syrian coast ; to Trebi- zond; to Madras and Calcutta; to Suez, Aden, Singapore, Hong-Kong, Shanghai, and Yokohama (fortnightly); to Al- ARLES. — NiMES. 401 giers; to Barcelona; to Nice, Genoa, Leghorn, Cività - Vecchia, and Naples; and occasionally to New York. +. | From Marseilles the tourist may readily enter Spain by way of Barcelona (see page 405). Arles, Nimes, Avignon, and Lyons. Rly. from Marseilles to Paris in 16–18 hrs. (fares, 106 fr. 35 c., 79 fr. 80 c.). Train leaving at 8.30 A.M. is due at Paris at 11.19 P.M. The route leads through vineyards and olive-groves, among which are ancient villages, to Arles (Grand Hotel du Forum ; Du Nord), a venerable Roman town (26,000 inhab.) near the Camargue, or delta of the Rhone. The Roman Amphitheatre (B.C. 43) is 1,500 ft. around, with seats for 25,000 spectators, fine arcades, and dens for wild beasts. It has been a fortress of the Goths, Saracens, and Franks, some of whose towers are still standing. The remains of the Roman Theatre are very interesting. See also famous Roman cemetery of Champs Elysées (mentioned by Dante); columns in Place du Forum; ruins of Thermae, and of Constan- tine's Palace; Roman Obelisk of Alpine granite, set up here in 1676; Museum (in old ch. of S. Anna) of Roman statues and antiquities; 7th-century Cathedral, with fine portal and interesting cloisters; viaduct with 32 arches; and (23 M. N. E.) imposing ruins of for- tress-abbey of Montmajour, on a high rock. The Women of Arles are celebrated for beauty. Fares, Marseilles to Arles, 10 fr. 60 c., 7 fr. 90 c., 5 fr. 80 c. From Arles, via Tarascon, to Nîmes, 4 fr. 85 c., 3 fr. 60 c., 2 fr. 60 c. § Nîmes (Hôtel du Luxembourg; Du Midi) the birth- place of Guizot and Nicot (whence nicotine), has 62,000 inhab. It was once a sacred spot in a Druidical 26 402 TARASCON. — AVIGNON. forest; conquered by Rome, B.C. 121; and at time of . Reformation, scene of fierce religious wars. No other French town has such noble Roman remains. The well-preserved Amphitheatre (B.C. 140) has 35 rows of . seats and 121 exits, and is 1,300 ft. around and 74 ft. high. It was made a fortress by Visigoths and Sara- cens; and afterwards contained a large village. The Maison Carrée is a Roman temple, 88 × 42 ft. in area, , with 30 exquisite Corinthian columns. Founded prob- ably by the Antonines, it became afterwards a ch., and then a town-hall; and is now a Museum, with antique : mosaics and sculptures, and several score of modern paintings. The Capitol at Richmond, Va., was mod- elled on plan of Maison Carrée. See also ancient Tem- ple of Diana (or Nymphaeum), and Roman Baths, below ; the huge and far-viewing Tourmagne, on Mount Cava- lier, adorned with promenades; 2 of the Roman town- gates; Fountain; and Boulevards. Tarascon (Hôtel des Empereurs; Du Petit Louvre), the city of the troubadours, and of King Réné of . Anjou (13,500 inhab.), has notable Castle, Ch. of S. . Marthe, Chapel of St. Gabriel, and Rue des Arcades. Avignon (Hôtel de l’Europe) is a handsome ; (38,000 inhab.) on the Rhone, with an imposing a well-preserved wall (1349–68) of huge masonry, and many gates. On the Rocher des Dons, 300 ft. high, . : stands the 14th-century Cathedral, with tombs of 2 * popes; La Glacière, an ancient square prison-tower of the Inquisition, where many martyrs have died; the Papal Palace (now a barrack), a huge and fortress-like is ; 100 ft. high, with frowning towers and a chapel ºf rescoed by Memmi (about 1330); the old Papal Mint, etc. Splendid view of Rhone and city from adjacent ublic gardens. The golden age of Avignon was dur- tº ing 1305-77, when 7 popes dwelt there, with all the VAUCLUSE. — VIENNE. 403 | Pontifical court. In 1351 Petrarch was a guest in the Palace, and Rienzi lay bound in its dungeons. At foot of Rocher des Dons is the Grande Place, with hand- some Theatre and Hôtel de Ville. See also Calvet Museum (lfr.), with Roman antiquities, library, and picture-gallery; Bridge, of which but 4 arches remain; Monument to Petrarch's Laura; 17th-century Hôtel Crillon ; and Ch. of Grands Carmes. Vaucluse is 12 M. distant by rly. to L'Ile-sur- Sorgues, whence 4 M. by road. Here is the fountain of which Petrarch sang. The Pont du Gard, W. of Avignon, is one of the grandest Roman works in exist- ence. It is an aqueduct of 3 lines of arches, over the desolate Gard Valley, built probably by Agrippa. Beyond Avignon the Paris rly. passes Orange (Hôtel de la Porte ; Des Princes), a Roman colony, and afterwards capital of principality (until 1702), with large Roman Theatre (20,000 sittings) and Triumphal Arch. Near Pierrelatte are many Roman remains. Montélimart has famous mineral springs. | Livron is famous for its defence by the Huguenots against Henri III. in 1574. Valence (Höffel de la Croia) is a picturesque town (20,000 inhab.), with Roman ruins; Cathedral with tomb of Pius VI. ; Museum; and Maison des Têtes. Vienne (Hôtel du Nord; De la Porte), “a little French Manchester” (25,000 inhab.), on the Rhone, has Roman Temple of Augustus, with 16 Corinthian columns; 6th-century basilica of S. Pierre; venerable Cathedral; etc. Lyons (Grand Hôtel de Lyon ; Des Beaur-Arts; Collet et Continental ; De l'Europe), the second city and chief manufacturing place of France (370,000 inhab.), is at the confluence of the Rhone and Saône, and is of Vast importance, both commercially and strategically. The Perrache is the quarter between and reclaimed 404 LYONS. from the 2 rivers; and containing handsome rly. stat., Arsenal, Barracks, Custom House, and Ch. of St. Blandine. See 13th-century Cathedral, with façade by Philibert Delorme, and noble tower; Museum (open 9–3), with Roman antiquities and statues, library, and large picture-gallery (see Perugino's Ascension); Grand Theatre; noble view from pilgrimage-ch. of Nötre Dame de Fourrières, on heights; Hôtel de Ville (1647), near || scene of massacres of 1794; Civic Library, 180,000 : vols.; Palace of Commerce, with industrial museum; . Hôtel Dieu, great tobacco-factories; new Bellecour Theatre; 10th-century ch. of Abbey of Ainay, on site of Caligula's school of rhetoric; handsome Tête d'Or park; Ch. of S. Jean, of 12th century; and Place Bellecour. There are 16 bridges over the rivers; and the adjacent heights are covered with great forts. Rly. from Lyons to Geneva, 4% hrs. (fares, 20 fr. º. 65 c., 15% fr., ll fr. 35 c.); and to Besançon (fares, 29 fr. 20 c., 21 fr. 85 c., 16 fr. 5 c.). Besançon (Hôtel . de Paris) is one of the strongest fortresses in France . (48,000 inhab.), with noble Cathedral, Archiepiscopal Palace, Granvelle Palace (1534), Roman Arch, and Library (120,000 vols.). Express trains, Lyons to Paris, 9–10 hrs., by Mâcon, 3 Châlons-sur-Saône, Dijon, etc. º Montpellier, Cette, and Perpignan, see pages 405-6. Biarritz and Bayonne, see page 433. º Pau, Cauterets, Bordeaua, Arcachon, Angoulême, Poi- 'º tiers, Toulouse, Vichy, etc., see pages 436 et seq. º SPAIN. 405 A ROTJINID TRIP ITN SPAIN. HE tourist who can give ten days for a visit to the most important points in Spain will never have occasion to regret it. He will find it among the most interesting and instructive of his journeys in Europe. From Marseilles we recommend you to go directly to Barcelona, from there to Valencia, and thence via La Encina to the Alcazar de San Juan. From this point you may go S. to Seville and Cordova, from Cordova to Grenada, from Grenada to Malaga, all this by rail: then from Malaga by steamer to Gibraltar; from Gib- raltar to Cadiz, from Cadiz to Seville, from Seville to the Alcazar de San Juan : from thence to Madrid, takin on the way the ancient city of Toledo; and from M.; N. to France by Avila, Walladolid, Burgos, and Irun : thence to Bordeaux and Paris. That does not include several points of interest, such as for instance Saragossa, Alicante, Salamanca, etc.; but it gives a capital idea of the chief beauties of Spain. Even to those who feel that they cannot spend the time to go. S. to Seville, Grenada, Malaga, and Gibraltar, we would recommend to try the route to Barcelona, Valencia, Toledo, and N., being satisfied with half of Spain if they cannot See the whole. As for the journey to Portugal and especially to Lisbon we shall simply point out the route, as most vacation tourists will find it too lengthy. Between Marseilles and Barcelona you pass through Montpellier (Hötel Nevet ; Du Midi : Du Cheval Blanc). Here is a Cathedral founded in 1364 by Ur- ban W.; a school of medicine with fine entrance flanked With a colossal bronze statue representing Barthez and 406 GERONA. — BARCELONA. La Peyronnic; a library of 50,000 vols., a good mu- seum (open Sun., Mon., and fête days, 11–3); a public library, 60,000 vols.; and many beautiful fountains, statues, gardens, and promenades: — Cette, one of the most industrious and dirtiest cities of Southern France, noted for its exports of wine, for its museum of natural history, and its botanical garden: — Narbonne, and Perpignan, an old French town with a Spanish aspect. The Spanish frontier is reached at Cerbere, in the midst of a wildly beautiful country; baggage inspection not severe. The only point of special importance through which you pass on your way to Barcelona is Gerona (Fonda Italiana), a large town divided into two sections, upper and lower, by the river Oña. Noble view here of the Pyrenees and the distant mountains. The porch of the Cathedral is reached by a monumental staircase of 86 steps. The interior forms one single nave, nearly 200 ft. long, sustained by immense pillars, formed of little columns almost detached from each other. Many interesting tombs here. The chief altar is one of the richest in Spain. The Bishop's Palace is very fine. Old churches of Santa Lucia and San Daniel are worth seeing. The Capuchin Convent contains a small Arabic monument of wonderful intricate work- manship. From Gerona it is 65 M. to Barcelona (Hotel de las Cuatro Naciones ; Fonda del Oriente; De España, ; Peninsular; Del Falcon), one of the most enterprising as well as one of the most beautiful cities (300,000 inhab.)in Southern Europe. Its appearance quite contradicts any impressions, that one may have of the slovenliness and lack of energy of the modern Spaniards, impressions, alas! confirmed later is on by the aspect of more southward towns. Barcelona º is the residence of a Captain General and of the civil governor of the province of Catalonia. It is at present SPAIN. 407 undergoing a great transformation. The upper part of the city, notably in the Gracia quarter, will remind Americans of the more beautiful sections of Boston and of Washington. The Rambla is the principal promenade of the city, and at noon and in the evening is thronged with all classes of the population. It runs from the Place of La Paz, opposite the port, to the Tarragona rly. stat., and from here stretches out the beautiful Gracia avenue, which unites the city to a suburb of the same name. Wastboulevards have been planned in an equally vast new city, which the people of Barcelona insist is sure to be built. Among the squares is the Royal; that of the Duke of Medina Celi, ornamented with a column raised to the memory of Marquet; the Square of Commerce, with its beautiful fountain; and the New Place, where are two interesting old towers. The travel- ler will at once be struck with the magnificence of some of the public buildings; among others the Theatre called the Lyceo, which is said to be the largest in the world. It is built after the model of La Scala, at Milan. The Lonja, or Exchange, is of monumental aspect. The Casa de la Diputacion, on the Place of the Constitution, was built in the 16th century; fine portal. On the side front- ing on the Calle del Obispo is the exquisite façade of the chapel of St. George, Gothic in style. The Hall of the Diputacion has many fine paintings; among others a number of the best works of Fortuny. Here are the Archives of the Crown of Aragon. This superb col- lection is able to furnish without any gaps documents to complete the history of 10 centuries. Opposite is the Casa Consistorial, a Gothic edifice (1373). The patio, or courtyard, is much admired. The Custom House, Casa Aduana, is near the old royal palace. The ublic libraries are small but well chosen. Barcelona as numerous fine hospitals, and its schools are quite 408 BARCELONA. remarkable, for Spain. The Cathedral dates from the first centuries of the Church. It is dedicated to S. . Eulalia; but the present church was built by Ray. mond Berenger I. in 1058. Its front is still unfinished. The interior has 3 vast naves, ogival in style. The chief altar is in a sort of temple, supported by sculp- tured columns : at the top is a Christ upon the Cross. Beneath the ch. is a crypt, with a chapel in which are said to repose the remains of S. Eulalia: beautiful stained glass windows here. The side door on the r. leads into the cloister, which is marvellously decorated in the style of the 15th century. Notice the ironwork on the doors of the chapels: also the tomb of the dwarf . buffoon of King Alfonso V. of Aragon. There are is numerous other chs. of interest. Among the most strik- - ing is S. Maria del Mar, a fine Gothic edifice. The Provincial Museum contains some good paintings by . Willodomat, some by the Caracci, and works of Ribera and other masters. The Salvador Museum of Natural History is quite remarkable. On an isolated hill stands the Castle of Montjuich, which can contain a garrison is of about 10,000 men. Barcelonetta is a little suburb º chiefly inhabited by fishermen and workmen in the marine establishments. Gracia is a favorite residence . of the wealthier people of Barcelona. An excursion should be made to the immense rocky mass of Monserrat, which rises in the midst of the . Catalonian plain, to the height of about 3,500 ft. above the level of the sea, at a distance of 31 M. from Barce- lona. It may be reached from the stat. of Martorell, on the Tarragona line, or rather more easily from Mo- mistrol, a station on the Saragossarly., from which a car- riage road leads to the Monastery on the summit of the mt. Of the old monastery founded in 880 nothing is . left but a few walls and one or two towers in Byzantine SPAIN. 409 style, dating from the 15th century. The present mon astery is composed of immense buildings, 8 stories high, without special character. The ch. is beautified with a portico, rich with statues and columns. The renown of the Virgin of Monserrat is too well known to need mention here. From the top of the mt. there is a splendid view of immense extent over the hills of Ar- agon, the Pyrenees, the Mediterranean shore, and in very clear weather as far as the Balearic Islands. There are several grottos filled with stalactites in the Mon- Serrat mass. The Baleario Islands. – There is regular com- munication between Barcelona and Palma, the capital of the old Kingdom of Majorca, and the chief town of the province which to-day bears the name of Bale- ares, and which comprises the islands of Majorca, Minorca, Ivica, and several others. Palma is a pretty town with narrow streets, in the midst of a delight- ful country. There are a few fine buildings in it. See Lonja, or old Exchange, begun in 1426, finished 22 years later: the Citadel, built at the close of the 16th century: the Palace of the Captain General: the Cathe- dral, founded 1230, finished 1601. Majorca pretends to be the cradle of the Bonaparte family, because an ancestor of that house, Hugo Bonaparte, a native of Majorca, went in 1411 to Corsica as governor in the name of King Martin, when that island belonged to the Crown of Aragon: — In the Island of Minorca, Port Mahon is the principal town, much frequented by navi- gators of all nations. The English were there for a long time, and quitted the island only in 1782. ~. . From Barcelona those who have time may find it interesting to visit Saragossa (distance, 229; M. ; fares, 185 r. 10, 148 r. 86, 101 r. 75). Fares from Saragossa to Madrid, 170 r. 50, 132 r. 14, 81 r. 410 SARAGOSSA. Saragossa (Fonda de Europa; Las Cuatro Naciones; Fonda del Universo) existed in the time of the Romans. Augustus Caesar founded a military colony there, to which he gave the name of Caesarea Augusta, whence the contraction Saragossa. The rly. stat. is some dis- tance outside the town, which has a population of 45,000, and is situated on the l. bank of the Ebro. It is renowned for its obstinate resistance to the army of E Napoleon during the memorable siege of 1808, and still shows marks of bullets on its walls. The Gate of Nues- tra Señora del Carmen is a noble memorial of the siege. From the stone bridge which unites the town with the suburb of Altabas there is a fine view of the city and E. the Ch. of Our Lady del Pilar. This is the object of fervent devotion on the part of Spanish Catholics. According to tradition a chapel was built here about the E year 40 of the Christian era by the orders of the Wir- gin herself, who brought to it the pillar and the statue º so much venerated to-day. Even when the mauso- i. leums were injured at Saragossa, this chapel and the pillar were preserved. The first stone of the present ch. was laid in 1681. The interior is rather tº naked and cold. There are, however, some beautiful º marble columns upholding the sculptured vault. In , the Sacristy is a fine Ecce Homo attributed to Titian. The Ch. of San Salvador, or the Seo, that is, the Epis- i. copal seat, is considered, however, as more important º than the first mentioned one. It is sumptuously orna- mented, and the mysterious twilight in the 5 naves has sº an impressive effect. Beautiful sculptures here repre- senting the history of the Saviour, of the adoration of . the Magi, the Ascension, etc.; also several fine tombs. The Trascoro is the work of the celebrated sculptor Tudelilla, and the chapels are very rich. The subter. ranean ch. of Santa Engracia, where repose the SPAIN. 4ll remains of many Christian martyrs, who were slain by the soldiers of Diocletian, is interesting. The ch. was nearly destroyed by an explosion in 1808. The other chs. are too numerous to mention. The Casa Muni- cipal, the Evchange, with its vast rectangular hall, formed by 24 beautiful columns in 4 rows; the Leaning Tower, built in 1304; the Aljaferia, which was a pal- ace of pleasure for the Arab kings; the Bull Ring; a great number of beautiful private residences; the University, which has a library of 25,000 vols.; some convents and hospitals; . the suburb of Santa Engracia, may all be readily seen in the course of half a day. From the little hills in the neighborhood there are very pretty views. On the way from Barcelona to Saragossa you pass through Lerida (Fonda San Louis de España). From here there is rail to Tarragona. The old Cathedral is a magnificent mass of Byzantine Gothic remains, mixed with various Arabic styles; picturesque and rich cloister. The new Cathedral, built under Charles III., is a fine Corinthian edifice with 3 naves, surrounded with a great number of chapels and many fine altars. The excursion to Saragossa is rather out of the limits which we had assigned for a brief journey through Spain. We recommend the tourist to go through Tarragona along the coast to Valencia: fares from Barcelona to Tarragona, 51 r., 38 r., 25 r.; dis- tance, 63%. M.; fares from Barcelona to Valencia, 174 r. 80, 107 r. 20, 83 r. 60; distance, 173; M. You leave Barcelona very early in the morning and reach Valencia about 8 or 9 in the evening. Take your provisions with you from the hotel. The journey affords a very fine series of contrasted views of Spanish scenery. After leaving Tarragona you pass through remarkably wild scenery along the base of rocky mts., #t 412 TARRAGONA. — VALENCIA. and then descend into the delicious landscape in the neighborhood of Valencia, filled with groves of oranges and lemons, and with a great variety of semi-tropical shrubs. Tarragona (La Fontana de Oro; Del Comercio) is a very old town of about 13,000 inhab., once the centre of the Roman power in Spain. Not far away are the sites of some of Hannibal’s battles. Traces of the old walls are to be seen in many points in the city. Very ancient gates here. Some of the modern residences are built with the débris of temples and of Roman palaces. The Place of the Constitution is on the site of an old Roman circus. The Cathedral is Gothic in style; inte- rior vast, aspect majestic, ornaments sober but heavy, |* shrouded in old Italian tapestries, many mar- le tombs and statues. In the Chapel of Corpus Christi are the remains of Don Jaime I., King of Ara- gon, and his wife. Old Aqueduct here. The next place of importance is Tortosa, a strongly fortified city on the l. bank of the Ebro (42,000 inhab.). Imposing fortifications. Cathedral of little importance. Shortly before reaching Valencia you pass Murwiedro, near which are the ruins of the celebrated and ancient city of Saguntum. If you go to these ruins, visit them at midday. The population is not aggressive, but there have been brigands in the neighborhood. Valencia (Hôtel de Paris ; Del Cid; Francesca ; De la Willa de Madrid) is the chief town (106,000 inhab.) of the province of the same name, the residence of a captain general and of the archbishop. It is tº: situated in the midst of a great number of groves and gardens. About 2% M. distant is its port, called El Grao, which is accessible for large steam- ships. Valencia may be seen in half a day. The first impression of it is not imposing, but the beauties of its SPAIN. 413 natural situation and its architecture grow upon one. The principal squares are those of the Constitution, where is the city hall; that of S. Francesco; that of S. Domingo, a market-place, which is well worth spending an hour or two in when the peasantry from the neigh- boring mts. are there; the celebrated Evchange and the Silk Hall. The Audiencia is a fine building of the 16th century. The principal halls are ornamented with good portraits. The Archiepiscopal Palace is con- nected with the Cathedral by a bridge. In the Casa della Ciudad are some good pictures. The Cathedral dates from 1262. The largest tower is called El Migue- lete, from the name of the big bell which was baptized in the name of S. Michael. From the platform of the tower, splendid view of the sea and the coast. The interior is formed of 3 vaulted naves supported by square pillars with Corinthian capitals. High mass in this ch. is a splendid spectacle. Visit the Sala Capitu- lar, immense quantity of relics, ornaments, archives, books, and MSS. The Ch. of S. Catalina has an old mosaic. Its tower is beautiful. In the Ch. of S. Juan del Hospital is the tomb of one of the empresses of Constantinople. The old home of the Jesuits is occu- F. by the civil government. Very fine hospitals ere. The University buildings are not remarkable. In the Collegio del Corpus Christi is a beautiful Cena by Ribalta. An invisible mechanism winds up this Canvas and opens 4 great curtains showing a superb crucifix, which is much venerated by the Valencians. The Provincial Museum is in the old convent of the Merced. The Theatre is large, but without character. The Bull Ring is immense. The principal promenades are the Alameda, the Botanical Garden, and the Glori. £ia (vast prison here, 1,500 prisoners). Pretty walks by the banks of the River. In the tobacco factory, 414 ALICANTE. — ALBACETE, 3500 women are occupied. The Valencian women are renowned for their beauty. From Valencia you may go to Alicante via La Encina. Alicante (Fonda de Bossio) is a fine seaport (35,000 inhab.). The town has no remarkable architectural features. The streets are large and well paved. The Alameda de la Reina is pretty. The City Hall, flanked with 4 towers, is quite imposing. Neither of the 2 chs. are worth * study. The Convent of S. Clara, or of the Holy Face, as it is called, possesses a much venerated relic, the handkerchief with which S. Wero- nica wiped the sweat from the brows of the Saviour. The Citadel of S. Barbara is supposed to be impreg- nable. You may also go to Alicante by Alcoy and Jativa. This last mentioned town is beautifully situ- ated on a mt.-chain, overlooking a magnificently culti- wated plain. On the flanks of the hills are the walls of an old fortress. A French writer says that the rly. here seems to be the alley through a region of gardens. Returning from Alicante to La Encina you may take ticket to the Alcazar de S. Juan, or directly to Madrid. On the way you pass Albacete (Fonda de S. Juan), renowned for its manufacture of knives. Specimens of the merchandise are always offered by pedlers to passengers on the trains. The Alcazar de S. Juan is where the lines to Andalusia and to Portugal branch off from the main line from Madrid to Valencia. It is an old town which the Order of the Knights of S. Juan made its head- quarters. Decent refreshment-room here. Attend carefully to your baggage. From the Alcazar de S. Juan to Cordova the journey is one of the most inter- esting in Spain, and descends into Andalusia. At Man- zanares the line to Ciudad Real and Portugal branches off. You pass through Val de Penas, whence you get “- ****~~~-º-º-º-º-º-º-ºrsºs SPAIN. * 415 a good view of the Sierra Morena. Between the Alca- zar and the Val de Penas lies much of the country described in Don Quicote. Many interesting points on the line. Notice Almuradiel, and Vilches, near which is the great plain where in 1212 a Christian army defeated the great Mussulman hordes under the com- mand of Mahomedal Nassr. At Mengibar there is a fine bridge over the Guadalquivir. At Andujar there is little of importance to be seen except the large ch. in what is known as the Plateresque style of architecture. Cordova (Fonda Rizzi ; Suizo ; Fonda de Oriente) is an old town of 42,000 inhab., situated in a delicious plain on the r. bank of the Guadalquivir, in full view of the slopes of the Sierra Morena. Cordova has a sumptu- ous museum of antiquities: a great collection of edifices of all epochs; and is divided into two parts by one long street, the Calle de la Feria, the principal artery for the commerce of the city. The walls which still surround it are flanked with towers, octagonal, cylindrical, or square, which were the work of successive generations of Saracen and Christian architects. The Plaza de la Con- stitucion is surrounded by fine buildings. The old stone bridge over the stream is attributed to Octavius Au- gustus. The principal objects of interest are the Old Alcazar, and the garden of the Moorish kings, adjacent to it. For permission to enter address the porter. The New Alcazar is to-day a prison. The Episcopal Palace is built of very rich materials, but not In remarkably good taste : fine gardens and good li- rary. Curious collection of portraits of all the bishops of Cordova. Near this palace is the Triunfo, a hand- Some marble monument, surmounted with a column which bears a gilded bronze statue of St. Raphael. A great number of the houses in the city are ornamented With inscriptions in honor of emperors, consuls, magis- 416 CORDOVA. trates, etc. The modern Bull Ring is near the rly. stat. * § The Mosque, now the Cathedral, is certainly one of the most remarkable edifices in the world. It was founded in 786 by Abdurrahman I., and completed by his son in 794. The exterior is rather gloomy: the court- yard within, remarkably beautiful. It has colonnades on 3 sides, with fountains in the centre; and is planted with orange and cypress trees. The interior of the Cathedral has been somewhat aptly described as a “marble grove.” The roof is supported by a vast number of slender pillars, beautifully wrought with Co- rinthian capitals and shafts of various colored marbles, of jasper, porphyry, etc. The principal entrance, called the Puerta del Perdon, is in front of the 6th nave on the W. side. The Mihrab, or the Holy of Holies, is very curious. The Mosque was converted into a Cathedral on the 25th of June, 1236. In the Colegiata de San Hipolito are two urns containing the ashes of King Alfonso X1. and his father Ferdinand IV. : also the tomb of the celebrated chronicler Ambrosio de Morales. The chs, of S. Pedro and of S. Marina are also worth seeing. The Convent of S. Pablo has beautiful cloisters and a magnificent staircase. Many other convents are rich in works of art. Just outside the town is the sanctuary of Our Lady of Fuensaton: great public festival here on the 8th, 9th, and 10th of Sept. An excursion to the Ermitas in the Sierra Morena is worth while. From Cordova to Granada the distance is 1534 M. On the way you pass Montilla, which is one of the most beautiful places in Andalusia. Here the Great Captain, Gonzalvo de Cordova, was born. At Bobadilla a branch hime to the r. goes to Malaga, (refreshment room here). Antequera is an old fortress, said to have been built in Roman times. Notice \ SPAIN. 417 the colossal bronze angel on the cupola of the ch. of San Sebastian ; also the Arch of Hercules, a Roman TUllll. Granada (Hotels: Fonda de Alameda ; Victoria ; Minerva ; De los Siete Suelos ; all near the Alhambra: Casas de Pupilos), a city of 72,000 inhab., is world famous, and we shall only briefly indicate the best way to visit the Alhambra and the other curiosities of the town in a short time. Granada is grouped on the slopes of 3 hills. The Torres Bermejas, or Scarlet Towers, so called because of their color, are on the first and the last of these hills. The Alhambra, which is a city in itself, covers the second and the highest. The Albaycin is on the third, separated from the others, by a deep ravine filled with rank vegetation. Through this ravine runs the torrent of the Darro. Granada itself is divided into 4 large sections. The modern city occupies the part of the valley between the hills of the Albaycin and the Alhambra. Notice the Plaza del Triunfo, at the end of which is the Bull Ring. On this Plaza is a white marble column, with statue of the Virgin. Here also are the Royal Hospital and the Convent of the Merced. On the Plaza Nueva, reached by the Zacatin, is the fine edifice of the Audiencia. See the statue of San Onofrio. Here is a University, with rich library and a rather inferior collection of pictures. The Cathedral, to be seen from 8 A.M. to noon, and 3 to 5 P.M., has a fine front ornamented with statues and bas-reliefs. Interior has 5 naves, supported by 20 enormous pillars, formed of columns grouped together. The Door of the Pardon is very fine. The Capilla del Pilar is filled with beau- . tiful marbles. See the group of “Charity” in the Sala Capitular, the work of Torrigiani, the Florentine artist, who was the rival of Michael Angelo. The Capilla Mayor is one of the most richly decorated in Spain. 4.18 GRANADA. — THE ALHAMBRA. The Royal Chapel was built to receive the remains of Ferdinand and Isabella, and here are their tombs. The two royal statues lie on the sarcophagus: two lions : repose at their feet. Here are the crown and sceptre I of Isabella, and the sword of Ferdinand. In a second mausoleum near by are the remains of Queen Joanna, who was insane, and of Philip her husband. The tower of the Cathedral is unfinished. The Alhambra is open from 10 to noon, and from 2 to 5 P.M. Leaving the Plaza Nueva you scale the Cuesta de los Gomeles. At the top of this street you find the Puerta de las Granadas, a kind of triumphal arch built by Charles W., where formerly stood an an- cient Arabic gate. Beyond this lie the groves and the gardens which surround the Alhambra. We will simply enumerate the objects to be seen. The Pilar de Car- los V., ornamented with statues; the Puerta de Juicio, or Door of Judgment ; the Plaza de los Algibes, or Place of the Cisterns; the Puerta del Vino ; the Palace of Charles W., a fine Renaissance structure, but un- nished. The centre is occupied by a circular patio or court, surrounded by a vaulted gallery supported by 32 Doric columns in marble. The Alhambra, a marvellous Arabic palace, occupied a rectangle of 400. ft. long by 250 wide. It comprised 5 interior courts. The prin- cipal façade, which was to the N., was demolished to make room for the Palace of Charles W. Its main entrance opened on the Patio de los Arrayanes, and you can only enter it to-day through a small corridor behind the N. façade of the Imperial palace. In the Patio de los Arrayanes is the famous Alhambra Vase, the finest known monument of Hispano-Moresque faience. The Hall of the Ambassadors, the Tocador, and the Mirador, or toilet rooms of the Queen, the Patio de la Mezquita, the Hall of the Baths, the Patio de las Rejas, the Court SPAIN. 419 of Lions, the most precious specimen of Arabesque architecture in Spain, with 128 white marble columns in the galleries surrounding it, with a floor of white marble, a noble fountain, and 12 great sculptured lions. The Halls of the Tribunal, of the Dos Hermanas (the Two Sisters), and the Hall of the Affencerrages, should be carefully studied. The Royal Chapel, which is rarely open, contains a great variety of artistic treasures. From the platform of the Tower of the Wela there is an admirable view. Visit also the Adarves, a line of old bastions transformed into gardens, also the ch. of Santa Maria, the Towers of the Cautivas, of the Carceles, of Los Siete Suelos, del Agua, de las Infantas and many others, should be carefully inspected. To visit the Generaliſe you leave by the Los Picos Gate, and go down the hill by a route which crosses the ravine of Los Molinos, and which then climbs the foot of the hills of a neighboring mt. . The Generalīfe was the pleasure house of the Alhambra. . But little remains of it except a few arcades and some beautiful arabesques. In one of the few halls which are still covered with a roof, there is a series of smoky portraits of the Kings of Spain, which have only a chronological merit. “From the Tower of the Generalife,” says a French writer, “you fancy that you can touch the Sierra Nevada, so pure and limpid is the air through which you see that moun- tain chain.” There are a great many beautiful excur- sions in the neighborhood of the Alhambra, but to enjoy them one must remain in the vicinity at least a Week. The gypsy encampments in the country-side are Very interesting, but the prudent traveller will scarcely Care to venture among them without a stout escort. From Granada the distance to Malaga by rail is 119 M. Malaga (Hôtel de la Alameda; Oriente ; Vic- toria ; Fonda de la Danza; Tres Reyes), with 80,000 420 MALAGA. — GIBRALTAR. inhab., may be easily seen in half a day. The exquisite climate and the beautiful situation of the town are its chief attractions. The Episcopal Palace, the City Hall, the new Custom House, the Theatre, which can contain 2,000 spectators, the vast Bull Ring, which holds : 10,000, are not architecturally remarkable. The Al. cazaba is an ancient fortress which antedates the Arabic occupation. The Atarazana is an old arsenal of the Moors. . The Castle of Gibalſaro is on a hill to the E. of the city. The highest tower is an imposing mass sustained by 4 arches and nearly 100 ft. high. Good view from this tower. The most beautiful prom- enade in this town is the Alameda ; many pretty foum- tains and statues here. The Cathedral, which would be rich in any other country, is not remarkable for Spain. . All through this country grow wheat, oats, olives, all kinds of fruit: orange, lemon, and fig trees are abun- ; dant. Try and time your visit to Granada so as to 8 connect with the steamer going to Gibraltar. º Gibraltar (Club House; Griffith's ; Parker's) is a city situated on a slope on the W. part of the famous rock and facing the bay. It has about 20,000 inhab. exclusive of the English garrison of 6,000 men. Main Street is the principal artery of the town. A narrow road connects the mainland with the rock, and this is . guarded by batteries. From top to bottom the mt. is full of excavations, and out of every one looks the mouth of a cannon. At the summit is an unfinished tower, called the St. George's. It was intended to be sufficiently high to enable the sentinels to overlook the Bay of Cadiz and see the movements there. In 1704 the English fleet, sustaining the rights of the Archduke Charles of Austria to the crown of Spain against Philip W., presented itself before Gibraltar, the fortifi- cations of which were then in ruins and occupied by a * SPAIN. 421 ; | garrison of 80 men. The town was taken, and although in the name of the archduke, England thought it prop- er to keep it. Various attempts to take it back were made in 1727, 1779, and 1782, but without success. The fortifications can be visited with special permis- sion, which may be easily obtained at the hotels. There is also a good club to which strangers may be pre- sented. Excursions may be made from Gibraltar to several interesting points on the African coast, notably Ceuta and Tangier. From Gibraltar you can easily get steamship to Cadiz, as nearly all the trading boats along the coast stop at these places. The voyage is usually about 10 hrs. The people at the hotels warn you of the approach of the steamers. Cadiz (Hotels: Fonda de Paris; Fonda de Blanco; Fonda de Cadiz, Del Paraiso; De Europa ; De las Cuatro Naciones) is one of the most charming of Spanish towns (54,000 inhab.). It is on a peninsula, which extends into the ocean, and is generally consid- ered the most agreeable town in Andalusia. It is strongly fortified, and its position is well calculated for defence. Notice the Fort of S. Catalina ; also the Fort of S. Sebastian. From the Torre de la Vigia, in the centre of the town, you get an admirable view of Cadiz and its surroundings. Nearly all the houses are white, and their terraces and balconies are very picturesque. The Casas Consistoriales occupy fine buildings on the Plaza de la Constitucion. The Alameda is a fine prome- made on one of the ramparts N. E. of the city. There are two handsome theatres, a Bull Ring, and a large number of colleges and seminaries, as well as an Academy of Fine Arts and numerous libraries. The new Cathe- dral, which is at the S. end of the town, is not a very Successful piece of architecture. A great profusion of marbles have been used in its decoration, but the gen- 422 CADIZ. — SEVILLE. eral effect is confused and disagreeable. The Treasury is rich in relics, jewels, etc. The old Cathedral has fallen into decay. In the chapel of the Convent of S. Catalina are many pictures by Murillo. Steam com- munication between Cadiz and Portugal, England, Hol. land, the French and German coasts, and Mexico, is very frequent. You may go from Cadiz to Seville by steamboat, on the Guadalquivir, in 8 hrs. ; fares, 60 r.; breakfast on board from 8 to 12 r. The journey is pretty, but most travellers will probably prefer the rail route, about . 82; M.; passing through Jerez de la Frontera, a pretty town, enriched by commerce in wine and other products : of its generous soil. Here see curious monastery, museum, finely decorated city hall. About 2 M. S. E. E. of the town is a noted Carthusian monastery. Seville (Hôtel de Cuatro Naciones ; Fonda de Lon- dres; De Europa, De Paris; De Madrid), with 138,000 : inhab., requires a long visit. We will not attempt to describe it in detail, but will simply indicate the things to see. Seville has kept its ancient character pretty well. Most of its streets are narrow and ... and nearly all the houses have their patios, or inner court. yards, separated from the street by vestibules paved with white and black marble, and closed by doors of . iron gratings beautifully worked by skilful artisans. The Plaza Nueva is a vast square which in the morn- ing is inundated with sunlight, and is planted with orange-trees, and surrounded on three sides by hotels | and boarding-houses, and on the fourth by the Palace . of the Ayuntamiento. The Calle de Genova, at the S. W. angle of the square, leads to the Cathedral. —This marvellous ch., with its famous tower of the Giralda, is a city in itself. Nowhere else in Europe is the splendor and majesty of the Catholic SPAIN. 423 religion so well seen as here. The Giralda, a veritable marvel of Arab architecture, was the minaret of the old mosque of the Moorish Kings, who governed Seville after the destruction of the Khalifate. It was built dur- ing the 12th century by the Arab El Ghebir, who was the inventor of algebra. The tower is 350 ft. high. In 1568 it was capped with a belfry, which in its turn is surmounted by an enormous statue of Faith, which despite its immense weight serves as a weather-vane. The Cathedral proper was begun in 1403, finished 1519. The most striking entrance is the Puerta del Perdon, which was probably in old times the entrance to a minaret. It opens on the Orange Court, from which you pass under a fine Arabic arch into the Cathedral by the so-called Lizard Door. Notice especially the Chief Altar, the Choir, the gigantic Organs, the Tomà , of Fernando Columbus, the Capilla Real, which contains the tomb of St. Ferdinand, and the tomb of Alfonso the Wise: also a portrait of Ferdinand, by Murillo, in the chapel of the Baptistery. Observe the noted picture rep- resenting St. Anthony of Padua, which was cut out of its frame and carried off to New York in 1875, and has now been restored. In the upper sacristy there are also several paintings by the same artist. In the Sacristy of Los Calices is a St. Dorothea by Murillo, an “Ecce Homo " by Morales, and a remarkable painting by Goya. In the Sacristia Mayor is the Vast and magnificent custodia in silver made in 1587 by Juan de Arfe. It is in the form of a circular temple, crowned with a statue of St. John and covered with a most prodigious number of ornaments and statues. Seville during Holy Week presents a con- stant succession of curious spectacles, religious in character. From the top of the Giralda Tower, which is reached by an inclined plane, up which 424 SEVILLE. — THE ALCAZAR. it is said two horses can be ridden abreast, good view - of the town, the river winding through the plains, and the hills beyond. Leaving the Cathedral by the Giralda Door, you reach the square on which is the Archbishop's Palace. Thence go round the Cathedral || to the Plaza del Triunfo, where is a monument com- memorating the earthquake of 1755. In the middle of this square is the Lonja, where is a precious collection of documents relative to the discovery and conquest of America. This is called the Indian archives. Not far || away is The Alcazar-This is, with the Mosque at Cordova and the Alhambra at Granada, the most beautiful Moorish monument in Spain. It was connected with the great walls that ran round Seville in the time of the Arabs. In the Alcazar were born and died the Kings Alfonso the Wise, Don Sancho IV., and Alfonso XI., father of Don Pedro the Cruel. The local guides, who are very civil and obliging, and satisfied with reasonable pay, will give you full description of the beauties of the Alcazar. Ask the guide to take you : through the modern royal rooms, inhabited by the King and Queen of Spain whenever they visit Seville. , The gardens of the Alcazar are delightful. The Casa ; de Pilatos, or House of Pilate, is an edifice built at the ºl beginning of the 16th century, by the first Marquis of . Tarifa. He had brought back from a journey made to Jerusalem in 1519 a quantity of * from the very house of Pontius Pilate, and this was sufficient to form the layer on which were laid the foundations of the resent palace, built on the plans of the dwelling of . }. at Jerusalem, which Rome reproduced. Here take place the scenes of the Passion. There are a great number of curious and interesting palaces and pri. wate houses to be seen in Seville. The Casa de los SPAIN. 425 Taveros, where the tribunal of the Inquisition had its sitting, will attract the traveller's attention. The guides procure admission for you to the patios of the richest houses, where, you can get an idea of the luxury and beauty of these southern Spanish residences. The Ch. of S. Martino has some good pictures. The Hos- pital of La Caridad, or the Charity, near the Golden Tower, which stands on the bank of the Guadalquivir, contains several of Murillo's best paintings. The pro- vincial museum is also quite rich in the works of Murillo, Zurbaran, and other noted artists. Murillo was born in Seville, Jan. 1, 1618. The Palace of San Telmo, the residence of the Duke of Montpensier, is one of the marvels of this city. ... It contains a very beautiful and valuable picture-gallery. Seville is as busy and thriving as Cordova is deserted and shabby. The banks of the Guadalquivir are , lined with ware. houses, and the traffic is very brisk. From Seville, if you adopt our plan for a short Spanish journey, we recommend you to proceed directly to Madrid. If you have not stopped at Cordova on your way down, but have gone directly through from the Alcazar de S. Juan, as many do, you may halt there on your return journey. Time from Seville to Cordova, nearly 4 hrs.; fares, 65 r. 60, 49 r. 20, 29 r. 45. From Cordova to Madrid it is 274} M.; time by ordinary trains, 16 hrs. ; fares, 321 r., 171 r., 104 r. 98. The express rates are somewhat higher. In the late summer and autumn months there is an express train, 3 times a week each way, between Madrid and Seville. Between the Alcazar de S. Juan and Madrid is the station of Castillijo, where you may branch off to Toledo, but we do not recommend this. It is better to go to Madrid first; then to make the Toledo visit a round-trip excur- sion of one day. A little beyond Castillijo is 426 ARANJUEZ. — MADRID. Aranjuez, with refreshment buffet. This is one of the summer residences of the Spanish court. Here is a palace, beautifully situated, commanding an immense ; view; but there is little that is architecturally striking in the building. The gardens are quite remarkable. The river Tagus flows through the domain. Madrid (Grand Hôtel de la Paia: ; De Londres; De Paris; Fonda de los Embajadores ; De Madrid; Peninsular; Espagnola ; De Europa), with 405,000 inhab., is the capital of Spain, the residence of the Court, and contains the finest paintings in Europe. John Hay said of Madrid that it was a “capital with malice aforethought,” by which he alluded to its situation in the midst of a great arid plain, swept in winter by the murderous winds from the mts. We recommend the tourist to devote his chief attention to the museum; then, if it be necessary, to include the other edifices and collections of Madrid. The Royal Museum contains a vast and absolutely unrivalled collection of the works of the old masters, but they are not very well arranged. Two immense galleries are consecrated to Spanish painters, and oth- ers contain the different Italian, French, Flemish, and Dutch schools. . Some idea of the riches of the museum can be formed from the statement that it contains 46 pictures by Murillo, 14 by Zurbaran, 58 by Ribera, 64 by Velasquez, 55 by Teniers, 16 by Rubens, 10 by Raphael, 20 by Poussin, 66 by Luca Giordano, 22 by Van Dyck, 54 by Breughel, 16 by Claude Lorraine, 16 by Guido Reni, 43 by Titian, 54 by Tintoretto, and 25 by Paul Veronese. About half-way down the principal gallery a door opens into an oval hall called the Salon de la Reyna Isabel. Here are grouped together the chefs d'oeuvre of the museum. The guardians are very attentive. Catalogues edited with SPAIN. 427 great care may be had at the booksellers’, or at the IIlül Sell II] . In the Academy of San Fernando in the Calle de Alcalá there is a collection of about 300 pictures, in 11 large rooms: Murillo, Goya, Rubens, and Zurbaran are well represented. The National Museum is in the old convent of the Trinidad. Here are about 800 paintings. There are several interesting private collections in Madrid. The couriers at the hotels will indicate them to you. The Royal Palace (Palacia Real), is situated in the W. part of the town. Among the 30 rooms on the 1st floor, the largest and finest is the Hall of the Ambassa- dors. The vault was painted by Tiepolo, and represents the exaltation of the Spanish monarch. The walls are draped with velvet embroidered with gold, and 12 im- mense mirrors also decorate it. On the r. of the throne, which is guarded by 4 gilded bronze lions, is a statue of Prudence, and on the I. that of Justice. The chapel is extremely rich, but not very handsome. The library, the theatre, the magnificent collection of Flemish tapes- tries, should be seen. On the S. of the square of the Pa- lacia Real is the Armeria, or Museum of Armor, which will be extremely interesting to Americans. Here is the armor worn by Christopher Columbus, the sword of the Cid Campeador, that of the Great Captain, Gon- Zalvo of Cordova, and that of Don Juan of Austria: also the helmet of Francis I. The Military Museum Qf Artillery, at the Buenretiro, is also worth visiting. At the entrance are colossal statues of Philip IV. and Louis I. The museum gives a complete review of the progress made in artillery from the 12th to the 17th Century. Here also are many flags carried during the Spanish conquest of America. The naval museum, the cabinet of natural history, the botanical garden, the 428 MADRID, library (small but good) deserve a visit. Madrid has several important libraries, most noticeable among º are those of the University and of the legislative OCI 162S. The Palace of the Congress, or Chamber of Deputies, is a handsome building, but not very remarkable. Its interior is very richly ornamented with fine paintings: that of the Senate occupies the old ch. of an Augustin- ian convent. In the great square of the Puerta del Sol is the Ministry of the Interior, formerly a post-office. The other public buildings and the Palaces are rather cold and formal in structure. The effect of the architec- ture of Madrid is not pleasing, compared with the won- derful richness of decoration to which the eye has become accustomed in Southern Spain. See in the Plaza Mayor the equestrian statue of Philip III. ; and in the Plaza de Oriente the statue of Philip IV. In the Plaza de las Cortes is a statue of Cervantes. None of the chs. of the Spanish capital is particularly strik- ing: there is not even a cathedral here. The Ch. of the Atocha at the E. end of the Prado contains the tombs of General Castanos, of Marshal Prim, and of other notabilities. Here the marriages of the Royal family are celebrated, and here the troops take the oath of allegiance. The cemeteries in the neighborhood of Madrid, with their long rows of walls in which the dead are sealed up, are very interesting. The Plaza di Toros, or the Bull Ring of Madrid, is one of the largest in the kingdom. It is a structure in Arabic style, built of brick, stone, and iron, and can seat 12,300 people. Every seat is numbered, and tickets to the bull-fights, which are usually given every Monday from April to October, are comparatively inexpensive. Be careful in choosing your place to note whether it is on the shady or the sunny side. This is very important in Spain. SPAIN. 429 The comic opera and some of the minor theatres should be visited. The Prado is a large boulevard which runs round a great part of the city, from the old Atocha gate to the Puerta de Recoletos. The Royal Museum is on this boulevard. Here on summer evenings is a magnificent display of Spanish beauty: commemorative monument here to the second of May, one of the epi- sodes of the French occupation of 1808. There are numerous other fine promenades within the city. The Puerta de Alcalá, an arch of triumph to commemorate the entry of Charles III. into Madrid, may be seen on the way to the Bull Ring. The Puerta de Toledo was built to celebrate the return of Ferdinand VII. from his captivity. The Plaza de San Vicente is quite fine. There are several bridges over the little river Manza- nares, which oddly enough is for the greater part of the year without any water in its channel. The tobacco factory in the Calle de Embajadores employs 3,000 workmen. About 7 M. from Madrid, on the r. bank of the Manzanares, is the Royal Palace of the Pardo. Excursion to the Escurial may be made. It is 31; M. from Madrid; five trains daily ; fares, 25 r. 50, 19 r. 25, 11 r. 50. The Escurial is called by the Spaniards the eighth wonder of the world. Philip II. built it in 1685 to commemorate the taking of St. Quentin, and to ac- complish a vow which he made to St. Lawrence. This vast building has 15 principal entrances, and more than 1,100 windows. It is entirely built of granite, and its appearance is monotonous and cold. The ch., the Capilla Mayor, filled with royal monuments, the sac- risty, a vast vaulted hall with a marble altar orna- mented with bronze, the choir, and the pantheon or Vault, where the kings of Spain are buried, are the prin- cipal things to see. You reach the pantheon by a magnificent staircase of colored marbles. The urn con- 430 TOLEDO. taining the remains of Charles W. was opened in 1870, and the body was even then in perfect preservation. The Library of books and the MS. Library will attract the attention of scholars. The main entrance to the palace is in the middle of the N. façade. See the Hall of Battles, covered with frescos representing Spanish conquests; and the apartments in which Philip II. lived and died. The Pavilion of Charles IV., called the Casa del Principe, is a charming little museum of paintings, sculptures, and mosaics. See the King's Seat, where Philip II. came to sit when presiding over the work of the palace. The royal abode of La Granja is on the route from Madrid to Segovia. Its apartments are said to be even more splendid than those of the palace at Madrid. There are two routes from Madrid to the ancient and picturesque town of Toledo. One leads through the royal residence town of Aranjuez; the other is a little more direct; fares about the same by both lines. Toledo (Hotels: Fonda de Lino ; Fonda Ruan ; the Lino is the one usually chosen) is one of the most remarkable towns in Europe. The rly. stat. is in the valley at the foot of the hill, near the fine Alcantara Bridge. An omnibus takes passengers from the train to the top of the hill. On the way up observe the fine view in the valley, where old Toledo, which was a town of 200,000 inhab., was situated. The Toledo of to-day has only about 18,000. The river Tagus makes a great curve around the town. It is crossed by the Alcantara and the S. Martino Bridges. The aspect of the city is majestic. Immense ramparts on the rocks; great gates flanked with Moorish towers: old Puerta Visagra, which dates from the Arabic domination; the celebrated Puerta del Sol, in the interior of the city, a chef d’aeuvre of Arabic architecture, are all impressive. The prin- SPAIN. 431 º square is the old Zocodover, to-day called the Place of the Constitution. The principal objects of interest are the Cathedral, the Alcazars, the celebrated Ch. and Convent of S. Juan de los Reyes, and a military college. The Cathedral was begun in 1227, and finished 2# centuries later. Its architecture is pure Gothic: exterior of great majesty. The principal W. front has 3 doors, called those of the Inſiarma, the Perdon, and the Juicio. The Door of the Pardon is the largest and richest. To the r. of the façade is the tower: on the l. the Mozarabic chapel. The tower is nearly 300 ft. high, and the great bell in it weighs nearly 40,000 lbs. The beauties of the Cathedral are so numerous that we renounce a detailed description of them here. Observe particularly the Door of the Lions and its rich chapels, the Capilla Mayor, the wonderful effect of the vast range of stained-glass windows, especially when the sun is shining through them in the morning, the Coro, and the beautiful Gothic portal of the Sala Capitular. The Tombs of the Constable Don Alvaro de Lima and of the Cardinal de Albornoz are very imposing. The Ch. of S. Juan de los Reyes (1477) is ornamented with a great number of chains hung on the walls out- side, memorials of captivities among Moslems. The cloister, now in ruinous condition, was one of the most beautiful in the world. The stone sculptures here are of extraordinary delicacy and finish. The provincial museum contains a collection of about 300 pictures. S. Maria la Blanca is a curious memorial of the Jewish epoch. The Military College contains about 600 cadets, who study their profession here from the age of 13 to 18 years. The Alcazar is a superb edifice which grosses the highest point of the hill on which the city is built. At the 4 angles of its walls are square towers. The courtyard is formed of 32 arcades. The staircase 432 WALLADOLID. —BURGOs. is one of the richest works of its kind. It is impossi. ble to see Toledo in less than a single day. See the Paseo de las Rosas ; the Paseo de Madrid. Valladolid (Hotels: Fonda de Paris; El Siglo ; El Norée) is the next place of interest; although from the junction of Medina del Campo you can go by branch lines to the old university town of Sala- manca, or to Zamora. Walladolid is a town of 55,000 inhab., on the Pisuerga. Here see University, Acad- emy of Fine Arts, Museum, Royal Palace, and many scientific institutions. The Royal Palace contains many curious objects. The old Palace of the Inqui- sition is to-day occupied by the Courts of Appeals. In the University are a series of portraits of the kings of Spain. The Museum of Walladolid is only secondary to the museums of Madrid and Seville. Here are fine examples of the works of Rubens, Mascagni, Carducci, and Cardenas. The principal treasure of the museum is a magnificent custodia, or tabernacle, in silver. Burgos (Hotels: Fonda del Norte; Rafaela), with 32,000 inhab., may be seen in a short time. Notice the Bronze Statue of Charles III. ; the celebrated Casa del Cordon ; the Ancient Palace, covered with sculp- tures; the Espolon, beautifully decorated, with 3 fine alleys bordered with trees, filled with statues, gardens, and fountains; the Cathedral, one of the marvels of the 13th century. Its portal and 2 clock-towers are of Goth- ic architecture. The principal façade towards the W. is a marvel of stone lacework. The interior is magnifi- cent, and ornamented with pictures, statues, tombs, sculptures, bas-reliefs, etc. Observe the Tomb of the Constable Castille. In the Ch. of S. Esteban is a very fine Cena. Notice the Triumphal Arch raised by Philip II. to Fernando Gonzales: also the house of the Cid, or the monument erected in 1784 on the ruins of that SPAIN. #33 | house. . In the City Hall are the remains of the Great | Captain and of his wife, enclosed in a sculptured wooden coffin. The Arch of S. Maria is very handsome. | Many fine excursions in the vicinity of Burgos. | The towns of Vittoria, Pamplona, Bilbao, and San Sebastian (the pretty watering-place frequented in late years by English and Americans) all deserve at- tention; but the tourist will hardly find time to stop at any of them. The frontier of France is reached at Irun fares from Madrid to Irun, 315 r. 50, 226 r. 25, 142 r. Spanish time is 25 min. slower than French time. There is little of importance to see in Irun: memorials of the Carlist civil war in all this neighborhood. Hendaye is the first French station. A little beyond it is S. Jean de Luz. The old town of Fonfarabia may be reached from Irun. Next comes Biarritz (Maison Gardères; De France ; Campagne; D’Angleterre ; Des Princes ; Des Ambas- sadeurs ; De l'Europe ; good Casino here; omnibus to Bayonne every half hour), one of the most popular sea- side resorts on the S. coast of France. It was a favorite resort of the Empress Eugenie. Bayonne, 23# M. from Irun (Hôtel du Commerce; St. Etienne; Des Ambassadeurs; De France; Castille), with 27,000 inhab., is at the confluence of the Adour and the Nive. Fine stained glass windows in the Cathe- dral, 15th century. The Place Grammont contains the Theatre, the Mairie, and the Custom House. Good view of the sea from the citadel. The bayonet was invented here, whence its name. Fares from Bayonne to Irun, 4 fr. 65 c., 3 fr. 45 c., 2 fr. 60 c. 28 434 LISBON. IPORTUGAL. Wł have thought it probable that the vacation tourists would not be likely to push their jour. ney as far as Lisbon, but we give a short paragraph con- cerning the journey to Portugal. Fares from Madrid to Badajos, 371; M., 299 r. 50, 227 r. 91, 145 r. 87. From Badajos to Lisbon it is 174; M., 5,260 reis, 4,100 r., 2,930 r. ; time, 10 hrs.; 2 trains a day. Lisbon time is 25 min. slower than that of Madrid. The reis, the Portuguese monetary unit, is about ; centime, or 2; ; mills: each franc is therefore worth 200 reis. The conto de reis, or a million of reis, is 500 francs. The Spanish real, 25 centimes, is 46 reis. On the way from Badajos to Lisbon you pass through Santarem, where there are : many curious remains of the Moorish architecture of the Middle Ages. - Lisbon, in Portuguese Lisboa (Hôtel Français or Grand Hôtel Centrale, situated on the Bay; Universal; Bragança; Durand, English; Gibraltar), with 260,- 000 inhab., is on the r. bank of the river Tagus, built in an amphitheatre on numerous hills. The general view of Lisbon on approaching it by river or by rail is magnificent. The finest streets are those of the Duro do Praga Augusta, the Chiado, and Alecrim. The Commercial Square, Praça do Commercio, has the largest and most remarkable public buildings in the city. It is also called the Esplanade of the Hills. In the middle is the colossal equestrian bronze statue of Jose I. . On 3 sides of the square are sumptuous buildings, the Erchange, the Custom House, the India Office, the Ministries, etc. On the middle of the N. side, PORTUGAL. 435 magnificent Triumphal Arch. The Cathedral, the Chs. of | S. Antonio, of S. Roque, of the Carmelites, and many con- vents have rich collections of art treasures. In the | Palace das Necessidades is a good collection of old | porcelain, furniture, etc. The King lives in the Ajuda Palace, an imposing edifice : botanical garden near by. Observe the beautiful aqueduct which crosses the Al- cantara Valley. The National Museum, 150,000 vols., 10,000 MSS.; the Archives, the Royal Conservatory of Music, and the Academy of Fine Arts, as well as the Italian Opera and the Doña Maria II. Theatre should be seen. There are but few remains of old Lisbon, which I was destroyed by the great earthquake. The Belem . possesses a great many fine gardens. ... The old Belem | Monastery is worth a visit. Ramalhao, the Almada Maſra, a vast convent ch., and the Palace of Cintra, where is an old castle of the Moors, are the principal suburban points for excursions. From Lisbon there is weekly steam communication with South America, with the East, and with England. A journey may be made to Oporto, taking Coimbra on the way. Fares to Oporto, 6,610 reis, 5,140 r., 3,680 r.; time, 11% hrs. ; | distance, 158+ M. | Coimbra (Hotel: Hospedaria de Caes Novo) is on the r. bank of the Mondego and has a most delicious | climate. It is very rich in poetic tradition and has A numerous manufactures of faience. The Romans made it one of their most important military posts. To- day the remains of the old walls are still to be seen. University, with 900 students here. The old Cathedral is Byzantine, and quite rich in character. The Chapel of the Twelve Apostles is remarkable. There is a chapel in it named after the poet Camoens. In the convent ch. of S. Clara are the tombs of the first kings of Portugal. - OPORTO. — PAU. Oporto (Hôtel Centrale; Pension Frankfort; Du Louvre), with 80,000 inhab., is the second city of Por. tugal. It is built on 2 hills, and the valleys which ex- tend between these are filled with charming villas and country-houses. The effect of the *; or Terraces, is quite delightful. The Cathedral, or La Se, is not especially striking. The town is divided into 3 quar. ters, the oldest of which, San Martinho, has but little of importance. The Royal Hospital, the Ch. Dos Cleri. os (with its high tower), the elegant theatre, the great £º. the Dpiscopal Palace, the Ch. of Our Lady of Lapa, where the heart of the Emperor Dom Pedro is . preserved, and the interior of the Ch. of S. Francisco; also the libraries, 65,000 vols., the Exchange, and the Museum, merit brief attention. Oporto is a thriving commercial town. From Lisbon to Evora it is 72 M.; ; fares 3,120 r., 2,390 r., 1,610 r. - Evora is a highly fortified city of 12,000 inhab., in the midst of beautiful fields filled with orange, olive, and fig groves. Many Roman antiquities here. From Lisbon a rly. runs to Faro, 1694 M. Faro, on the S. coast of Portugal, is a small town of 10,000 inhab., with a good cathedral; fine military hos- pital, large and well-built streets, and an excellent port. Just opposite it, in the Atlantic Ocean, is a small group of islands. From Bayonne it is 65%. M. (ſares, 13 fr., 9 fr. 75 c., 7 fr. 20 c.) to Pau (Hôtel Gassion, a splendid edifice which cost . $400,000; De France; Beau Séjour; De la Piste; Grand Hôtel; Mont Pays ; De l'Europe; Du Commerce; Henri IV. ; De Paris; restaurants: Gassion, Berins, Champagne), with 29,000 inhab. Pau is one of the most important towns in the lower Pyrenees, and is a favorite winter-resort because of its delicious climate. FRANCE. 437 Life is rather expensive at Pau, but there are a great number of strangers there yearly; abundance of beauti- fully furnished apartments to § had. The town is divided into 2 parts by the little brooklet called the Gave, over which there are 5 bridges. The Castle of Henri IV. (open daily except Mon. from 10 to noon, and from 2 to 5 P.M.), near Pau, is well worth visiting. Magnificent Flemish tapestries made by order of Francis I., in the great Hall of the States. The Ch. of S. Martin, modern; the Palace of Justice ; the Museum (open Thurs. and Sun., from 1 to 5, free, and every day for a small fee); the Place Royale, with a statue of Henri IV., may all readily be seen in a few hours. From Pau there is a diligence service to Eaux-Bonnes (Hotel des Princes; De France; De Richelieu) and Eaua-Chaudes. The former town receives between 6 and 10,000 inva- lids and tourists annually: vast bathing establishments here, also Casino, concert halls, theatre, reading-rooms, etc. The thermal establishment at Eaux-Chaudes (Hötel Baudot; De France) is one of the best arranged in the Pyrenees. The waters are especially successful in catarrh, rheumatism, and skin diseases. For full description of this Pyrenean bath region we cannot do better than to refer you to the work on the Pyrenees }. Adolphe and Paul Joanne, published by Hachette, a TIS. Cauterets (Hötel Continental; De France; D'An- gleterre ; Du Parc) may be reached via Pau and Tarbes. There are 24 springs here and 9 bathing establishments; about 20,000 tourists visit Cauterets annually. Beautiful excursions in the neighborhood. Going N., after leaving Bayonne, the first place of importance is Bordeaux (Hôtel de France; De Wantes ; De Paris; Des Princes et de la Paiz Du Commerce ; 438 BORDEAUX. Richelieu ; Des Ambassadeurs), with 215,000 inhab., a beautiful town on the l. bank of the Garonne. The city takes the form of a crescent, which it bears on its coat of arms. The Garonne River here is very wide and deep, and navigable for nearly all classes of steamships. See the Bordeaux bridge, built in 1810, from which admirable view of the river, and its banks lined with palaces, warehouses, and shops. The Place de la Comédie, on which stands a great theatre, is the principal rendezvous for strangers. All the principal hotels are in this neighborhood; but the largest of all the squares in Bordeaux is the Place des Quinconces. Here are the Rostral columns, surmounted by statues of Com- merce and Navigation. There are also marble statues here of Montaigne and of Montesquieu ; an equestrian statue of Napoleon III, which stood in the Tourny alley, was taken down in 1870. The oldest monument in Bordeaux is an amphitheatre called the Palais Gallien. This is supposed to have been built by the Romans, in the 3d century. The Cathedral of S. André was con- secrated in 1090; rebuilt at different epochs; and is now being restored. Near the Cathedral is the Bell Tower of Pey-Berland, so called after the Bishop who built it, in 1440. The ch. of S. Michel, founded 1160, belongs to the ogival order. It also has an isolated bell tower. The ancient ch. of S. Croia, has a rich façade recently restored. The Palace of Justice has numerous statues of noted Frenchmen. In the vestibule of the court stands a statue of Montesquieu. Many of the other public buildings are adorned with sculptures and paintings. The great Theatre has a fine vestibule orna- mented with Ionic columns. It was in this theatre that the National Assembly held its sessions in 1871, and that the nation resolved to make peace with the Prus- sians. . The Museum, founded 1803, has about 600 FRANCE, 439 pictures of moderate merit; catalogue, 50 c. ; museum open Sun., Mon., and Thurs., 10–3; other days small fee. See Library, 200,000 vols., the Museum of Antiquities and the Museum of Natural . History, also the Bonie Museum. In the chapel of the Lycée, on the Cours des Torres, is the tomb of Mon- tesquieu. Bordeaux is a very important commercial # steam navigation with South America, Russia, olland, England and Ireland, New York, and New Orleans. The public garden is a pretty promenade. The watering-places of Bagnères de Bigorre and Bagn- eres de Louchon may both be conveniently reached from Bordeaux. From Bordeaux it is 34%. M. (fares, 4 fr. 65 c., 3 fr. 55 c., 2 fr. 45 c.) to º Arcachon (Grand Hôtel Legallais ; De France ; Richelieu ; Jampy). This is a charming seaside resort on the Bay of Biscay; and in the pine forest which stretches along the coast are a great number of winter villas. The Casino is a charming palace with Moresque cupolas and minarets. About 100,000 persons visit Arcachon annually. From Bordeaux it is 1594. M. (time, 5; hrs., fares, 31 fr. 65 c., 23 fr. 75 c., 17 fr. 40 c.) to Toulouse (Hôtel Tipollier; De l'Europe ; Souville), with 131,000 inhab. This is the old capital of Lan- guedoc, on the r. bank of the Garonne. There is but little of interest to the tourist here except the Cathedral of St. Etienne and the Museum (founded 1792) of an- tiquities, pictures, and plaster casts. From Bordeaux to Paris it is 358%. M.; time, about 9 hrs. by express; fares, 72 fr. 5 c., 54 fr. 5 c., 39 fr. 65 c. You pass through Angoulême, Poitiers, Tours, and Orleans. Angoulême (Grand Hôtel des Postes), on the Cha- rente, is an old town built on a rocky hill, and has a 440 VICHY. — AIX-LES-BAINS. fine Gothic Cathedral, Theatre, a Cabinet of Natural History, and a good Library. Poitiers (Hotel du Palais; De l'Europe; De France) || d'Armes. Cathedral in Gothic style, with very lofty . halls. Interesting ch, of S. Hilaire, also the Byzantine Notre Dame ; many Roman antiquities here; Palace of . Justice, with room much like Westminster Hall in London. The English held this town 300 years. 4.M. º. from Poitiers is the battle-field where the Black Prince # defeated the French under John, in 1356. º Orleans and Tours, see pages 197–198. : Two of the most celebrated of French summer- i. is near the river Clain. Its finest square is the Place || resorts are Wichy and Air-les-Bains, both of which are easily reached from Lyons. º Vichy (Hotel des Ambassadeurs; Du Cherbourg; i. Du Parc ; Des Princes ; De Suede ; De Richelieu ; Du Louvre) is on the banks of the Allier, in a pretty valley enclosed in an amphitheatre of hills. It is the most popular watering-place in France. Wonderful cures of gout and rheumatism are reported from Vichy. ...Bath; ing season begins May 1 and ends October 1. The old town, with its ruined walls and ancient towers, is striking. Most of the hotels are around or near the old Park, at one end of which is the bathing establish- ment, and at the other the Casino. Aix-les-Bains (Grand Hôtel d’Aia: ; De l'Europe; Du Globe ; De l’Univers ; Des Ambassadeurs ; De la Poste ; D’Ardel) is a very popular watering-place in Savoy, 8 M. from Chambéry. Nine sulphur springs here effect very important cures. See Roman remains; Casino and Baths; English church. Beautiful excur- sions to the source of the Marlizo; to the Abbey of Haute Combe, where are the tombs of the House of Savoy; to the Nivoleff ; to the Mollard Garden; to the Cascade ; to Gresy; and to the Annecy. COPENHAGEN. 441 A TOUR IN THE NORTH. Fº Hamburg, in Germany (see page 239), you may, if time permits, make a tour of great interest in the North. We will for the present con- tent ourselves with briefly laying down some skeleton routes for a short journey through portions of Den- mark, Norway, Sweden, and Russia. You may begin your trip by going to the chief city in Denmark. From Hamburg to the German naval depot of Kiel it is 3 hrs. by rail; from Kiel to Korsör by steamer 6% hrs. ; and from Korsör it is 4; hrs. to Copenhagen. Or you may go all the way by rail from Hamburg to Copenhagen, by Schleswig, 220 M., in 16 hrs. (fares, 45 mks., 35 mks. 10 pf.). Practical Information. — The money in Denmark, Norway, and Sweden is reckoned in krone (k.), and ôre, or Øre (ö). An English sovereign is worth about 18 k. — Steamboat schedules are frequently altered: remember this in making plans. – The best season for travelling in these countries is from June to mid-Sep- tember. — For a journey to the North Cape, select June or July. — The fjords of the Western Coast of Norway should be seen if possible. See Baedeker, and an ex- cellent Guide du Voyageur, published in Stockholm, for detailed trips. Copenhagen (Phoenia: ; King of Denmark; D'An- gleferre), the capital of Denmark (180,000 inhab.), Stands upon the E. coast of Zealand, and is enclosed in a line of fortifications, now used as a promenade. The panorama of batteries, docks, stores, and arsenals, as seen from the sea, is quite imposing. The E. * 442 COPENHAGEN. part of the harbor is protected by the Castle ſ | l Frederikshavn. Part of the city is built on the sma Island of Amager, and is called Christianshavn. The channel between the two islands forms the port. Copenhagen has a great number of palaces and public buildings, and 2–3 days may well be spent in inspect- ing the art collections. The royal residences are quite numerous. Amalienborg, the chief house of the royal family, consists of 4 small palaces. That next to the Colonnade is the king's; the second is the Foreign Office; and the others pertain to the queen dowager and the crown prince. Bronze Statue of Frederick V. in the square. Christiansborg, on a small island, is a huge public building, of which Christian I. was very fond, and stands on the site of a castle dating from 1168. Here one of the finest palaces in Europe was built between 1733 and 1770, and shortly afterwards destroyed by fire. See bronze statues on the front, Hercules by Thorwaldsen; and three by Bissen, after Thorwaldsen’s designs. Interior visible daily; small fee. In the Banqueting Hall is Thorwaldsen’s famous Frieze, representing Alexander's Entry into Babylon. On the staircase are noticeable statues. In this edifice are the Chambers of Parliament or Things. Here also is the Royal Picture Gallery (open, free, May–Oct.). The rooms devoted to Danish masters have some very good canvases. The Royal Chapel faces the palace. The handsome 3-towered Gothic Rosenborg Castle is in the centre of the King's garden. There see Chronologi- cal collection of the Danish Kings, – rooms dedicated to each king, and filled with relics of his life and deeds. The Audience Chamber of Christian IV. , the golden cups; the bedroom in which Christian IV. died, in 1648; the Marble Hall; the beautiful room called, the Rose; and the Turret Chambers are the other curiosi- | COPENHAGEN. 443 ties. Observatory near this palace. Frederiksberg Palace (now a military school) is 1 M. out, in a beautiful park. Zoological Gardens near by. In the Fruekirke (Ch. of Our Lady) are famous sculptures by Thorwald- sen; and in an alcove his coffin was placed at the funeral, while the royal family stood bareheaded round it. The ch. was injured by the English bombardment in 1807. See Thorwaldsen’s Baptismal Font ; also two bas-reliefs, - the Baptism of Christ and the Last Supper. The greatest curiosity in Copenhagen is Thorwald- sen’s Museum, built by subscription to contain casts of all his works and many originals (catalogues at hotels and at museum). In room 42 are Thorwaldsen's last unfinished works. In the Prindsens-Palais are various popular collections; the Ethnographic Museum, the Mu- seum of Northern Antiquities, etc. The last (open, free, every Thurs., 12–2) is the largest and most complete in Europe. The royal collection of engravings is open, free, Tues. and Fri., 11–2. Visitors should see the Arsenal, close to the Christiansborg Palace (open Wed., 1–3). Royal Library (550,000 vols.) close by. ºu new equestrian statue in bronze opposite the palace. The Evchange, the Museum of Watural History, the University, Library, the Ch. of the Trinity, with its famous Round Tower (built by Christian IV.), Count Moltke's collection of pictures (Wed., 12–2), and the pretty theatres are enough to keep visitors busily oc- cupied for a week. — Near Copenhagen is Charlotten- lund, a country house, inhabited in summer by some member of the royal family. Pretty drives hereabouts. To the Deer Park, a royal preserve, filled with vast herds of stags, red deer, and fallow deer; and to Hurs- holm, where once stood a superb palace built by Chris- 444 ELSINORE. — MALMö. tian WI. Not far away is the Island of Hveen, where the astronomer Tycho Brahe resided. Sentimental travellers may wish to visit Elsinore (Oresund Hotel), 30 M. from Copenhagen, easily reached by rail or steamer in 2 hrs. The Castle and the Cathedral are the chief sights. Marienlyst, N. of the town, is a sea-bathing establishment. Here on a terrace among some trees is shown a mound, called the grave of Hamlet (see Murray’s “Denmark”). Hamlet’s identification with this spot is founded on very slight proof. Near Elsinore is Gurre, a famous residence of many Danish kings. Roeskilde was the most impor- tant town in Denmark, and remained a royal residence from the 10th to the 15th century. The Cathedral is the finest building of its kind in Denmark. . In its N. aisle, Saxo Grammaticus, the chronicler, is buried. From Copenhagen, those persons who do not wish to visit Norway can go by steamer 4 times daily in 13 hrs. (16 M.) to Malmö (Krämer's Hotel; Gustaf Adolf; Svea ; Stockholm), on the Swedish coast, and thence by rly. in 16 hrs. (one through train daily at 2.40 P.M., fares, 52 k. 5 ö., 37 k. 65 ö.) to the Swedish capital, Stockholm. Malmö (32,258 inhab.) was during the Hanseatic period the chief commercial town on the Sound. Bothwell, Mary Stuart's third husband, was imprisoned in the castle here, 1573–78. Charles XV. died here. On the way to Stockholm you pass through Lund (Stadshuset; Skandinavien), where is the finest cathedral in Scandinavia, founded in the 11th century. See old University buildings here; and near the Cathe- dral a Statue of Tegnér, who composed many of his poems at Lund. His study is shown to visitors. Linköping (Stora Hotellet) also has a noble ch., built 1150–1499. Notice Norrköping, near Stockholm. GOTHENBURG. — CHRISTIANIA. 445 NORWAY. We think our travellers will prefer to visit Norway on the way to Sweden, rather than to neglect such an excellent chance; and we shall therefore recommend them to go from Copenhagen to Christiania (semi- weekly steamers, touching at Gothenburg; time,47 hrs.; fares small). The traveller can go from Gothenburg to Stockholm by rail (13 hrs. ; fares, 38 k. 65 ö., 27 k. 95 ö.), if he changes his mind about Norway. Gothenburg (Haglund's Göta Källare ; Kris- tiania) is a busy and pleasant commercial town of 70,000 inhab., on the Gotaelf. Excellent harbor, rarely closed by ice. The first impulse given to Gothenbur was during the continental blockade, when it . the dépôt of English trade with Northern Europe. The Ecchange, the Town Hall, the Christinakyrka, the Statue of Gustavus Adolphus, the Museum º daily), the Cathedral (consecrated in 1815), and the pretty garden with hothouse and exotic plants near the Wall. graſ, comprise the chief features of the town. Those who wish to go from Gothenburg to Stockholm by the steamer can do so (Tues., Fri., and Sat.; fares, 25, 17, and 12 k.). - Christiania (Grand Hotel; Victoria; Shandinavie; Britannia; Royal), the capital of Norway, has 113,000 inhab. Steamships from London, Holland, Hamburg, etc., land their passengers on the two quays near the Custom House (porterage from the steamer, 30–406.; cabs to the hotel, 40, 60, 80 3.). Christiania is charm- ingly situated at the N. end of a fjord. It was founded by (and named for) Christian IV. in 1624. It is the seat of government and of the supreme court of Norway; and the Norwegian Parliament also sits here. The Univer- 446 CHRISTIANIA AND SUBURBS. sity, National Picture-Gallery, Observatory, and Royal Palace will occupy the attention for a day. E. of the market-place is the Ch. of Our Saviour, consecrated in 1697, restored in 1849. Near this edifice is the famous Steam Kitchen for the poor classes, where economical dinners are cooked for 2,000 people daily. The Theatres, the Freemasons’ Lodge, the Akershus, the Fortress (many centuries old), are all within an easy walk of each other. The Akershus was besieged by Duke Eric of Sweden in 1310, and in 1716 by the famous Charles XII., who was signally defeated a little later by the Norwegian naval hero Tordenskjold. Good views from the ram- parts. See the Eidsvolds Plads, the pretty square planted with trees, E. of which is the Parliament Edifice. This has a handsome façade, flanked with granite lions (fee to enter). The summer session ends in June. The National Gallery (Sun. and Thurs., 12–2, free; at other times, fee) was founded in 1837, and contains 260 pictures. In room 6 see reliefs by Thorwaldsen. The Trinity Ch., the Gamle Akers Kirke, – the oldest ch. in Christiania, founded in the 11th century, - the monument to Wergeland, the most famous of Nor- wegian poets, and the view from St. John's Hill should not be forgotten. In the University, founded 1811, there are numerous collections of interest. It has 1,000 students, and a library of 250,000 vols. The Royal Palace is a large plain edifice, with handsome portico, on a hill in the Slots Park. The Festal Hall, the Throne Room, and Audience Chamber are beautifully adorned. In front is an equestrian Statue of Charles ATV. The School of Design and the Palaishavens Pa- villon, where there is a collection of engravings and drawings, are the only other important sights. Suburbs. – See Oscarshall (tickets and information free at the hotels), a castle built for King Oscar in THRONIDHJEM. 447 1847, with works of Swedish and Norwegian artists. Noble view from the roof. Also visit the Egeberg. There is direct steam communication between Chris- tiania and Hull, 3 days; London, 4 days; Havre, 4 days; Hamburg, 36 hrs. ; Lubeck, 48 hrs. ; and twice a month to New York. Brief Excursions in Norway. General Notes. -- On all the fjords, and along the coast of Norway, there are excellent steamboat lines, and travel in this way is comparatively cheap. The food is usually good. Beer is the national drink. The rigid tem- perance laws of Norway make it impossible to obtain spirits on the steamboats or at most of the principal railway restau- rants. On the lakes there is usually a service 3 times a day. All Norway is covered with a network of excellent routes; and there are few more pleasant ways of travelling than in the post-chaise among the mountains and beside the fjords, if the traveller be prudent enough to look out for his relays of horses. It is only on the most frequented routes that one can get carriages and horses to make a long journey. The driver generally takes care of himself and his horses for a fixed sum. Carriages can carry 3 or 4 persons, with bag- gage. The relay service is very well arranged, and there will be no occasion for complaint if you always send a tele- gram ahead. The charges for the horses and carriages are by the mile, and are moderate. On the lakes the rowers also work for a fixed tariff. The amount of baggage is also determined by regulation. Throndhjem (Britannia; D’Angleferre; Bellevue; Fictoria), the ancient Widaros, and the third city in Norway, has 22,600 inhab. Here the Norwegian kings were crowned in the Middle Ages. Formerly the capi- tal of the kingdom; and its cathedral (open daily, free, 12–1), the finest in the North, was once a great resort 448 BERGEN.— HAMMERFEST. for pilgrims. It is built of a bluish chlorite slate, with which the marble columns form an admirable contrast. In the llth and 12th centuries this ch. was the burial- place of the kings; and here Charles XIV., Oscar I., Charles XV., and Oscar II. were crowned. You may go from Christiania to Throndhjem by rail, but the jour- ney is tedious, and we recommend the carriage route, or the steamboat voyage around the coast. From Christiania to Bergen is a favorite excursion. On the Strandefjord is the noted Fagerna’s Hotel, a great resort for tourists. Bergen (Holdt's Hotel ; Skandinavie) is on a hilly peninsula and isthmus, with handsome high mts. in the background. . . The town (39,000 inhab.) was founded by King Olaf in 1070, on the site of an old royal residence. Many great battles have been fought in its neighborhood. See Kongshall, Falkendorf Tower, and Fishmarket (on Wed. and Sat., 8–10 A.M.). The Museum has very good collections. The best view of the town is from the Flóifjeld, N.E. of the harbor. The overland route from Bergen to Molde is interesting for leisurely tourists. Another good excursion is from Christiania to Kongs- berg, the Falls of Rjukan, the Hardangerfjord, and to Bergen. Still another is from Christiania to Wadsö, along the coast. From Vadsø, those who have time may push on to Hammerfest (Jansen’s Hotel), the most northern city in the world. . It is built along the shores of a little bay, protected by a peninsula from the fury of the N. winds. From a mountain in the neighborhood there is an extensive view over the glaciers of Sejland and Sörö. Hence travellers can usually see the midnight sun in midsummer. Those who wish to visit the North Cape should remember that the sole attraction of the journey consists in the bleakness and solemnity of the scenery. A steamer *T*T***T*TT"º-º-º-º-ºxº-º-º-º-m ºm. STOCKHOLM. 449 usually leaves Hamburg on Mon. morning, arriving at Vadsø Wed. afternoon and at Hammerfest on Sat. evening. SWEDEN. You may go by rail in 5; hrs, (fares, 10 k. 55 ö, 7k. 556., 4k. 806.) to Charlottenberg (Railway Restau- rant), on the Swedish frontier; change carriages here, and thence in 14–18 hrs. (fares, 30 k. 40 ø., 22 k. 35 ö., 14 k. 20 3.; express rates a trifle higher) to Stockholm (Grand Hotel; Rydberg ; Kung Karl ; Kung Karls Annet; Christiania ; Skandia; De France; Scandinavia; Stettin; De Suede, in the town properly so called; Frankfurt; Berlin. Room from 1 k. 506. to 3 k. per day. Good restaurants in the principal hotels. In the southern faubourg, Peligan ; fine view over Stockholm and its environs. Good music at Blanch's Café every evening. The principal bank, Riksbanken, at Jern Torget. Population, 152,582. Sea communi- cation with Stettin, Lubeck, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, London, St. Petersburg, Bordeaux, and Finland, by comfortable steamships and boats. Carriages at all rly. stats. Day price, lik, for 1–2 persons for single drive; 1 k. 25 ö. for 3–4 persons; from 11 P.M. to 6 A.M., 50 per cent increase. Trips to suburbs at moderate rates. Baggage, 20–50 à.; omnibus, 15 ö.). The capital of Sweden is situated on the banks of Lake Mälar, where it empties into the Baltic Sea, and occu- pies two peninsulas and many islands, joined by hand- some bridges. Old travellers, say that Stockholm's situation is the most beautiful in Europe, after that of Constantinople. The city is divided into six parts: the Staden, or city, formed by the islands of Stadsholmen, Riddarholmen, and Helgeandsholmen, the narrowest and least agreeable part of Stockholm, but the most - 29 → 450 PRINCIPAL SIGHTS IN STOCKHOLM. animated, and the commercial centre; Worrmalm, the N. section, with the island of Blasieholmen; Ladugårds. landet, a quarter built in the reign of Queen Christina; Rungsholmen (King's Island); Södermalm, the S. fau- bourg; and Saltsjö-Oarne, composed of four islands. The oldest chroniclers give to the town the name which it bears to-day, -stock signifying straight, and holme, island. See local guide at bookstores for the romantic legends connected with the origin of Stockholm. Fine views from the Mosebacke; from Kastellholmen ; from the Observatory; from the Tower of Jacob’s Ch. , from Byström's Villa ; and from the Tivoli. Principal Sights.-In the city Stadeif: the Royal Palace, — burned in 1697, and rebuilt in 1753, -one of the finest in Europe, on an eminence close to junction of lake and sea. Vast panorama from the terrace. View of the city and the innumerable bits of water, the majestic monntains, forests, and green plains. Cost of palace, 10,500,000 k. See the N. façade and the Gus- tavus Adolphus Place. Here is the Lejonsbacken, a stair- case ornamented with huge bronze lions. The front portico is decorated with the Swedish arms, –3 bronze crowns, supported by a figure of Renown. The S., W., and E. façades have beautiful works of art. The chapel, 128 ft. long by 50 ft. wide, has fine marble columns and richly decorated walls. The pulpit, sculptured and gilded, is supported by the 4 symbols of the Ivan- gelists, – the angel, eagle, lion, and ox. The altar-piece represents Jesus at Gethsemane. The Hall of State, 143 ft. long, 51 ft. wide, is by Tessin. See silver throne given to Queen Christina i. Magnus Gabriel; and statues of Gustavus II. and Charles XIV. by Byström. Here the king opens and closes the Diet in presence of the two chambers of the kingdom. The interior of the palace is visible in summer; small fee. See the cere- STOCKHOLM. 451 monial halls where great festivals are held : Audience Chamber; fine ceiling by Fouquet; magnificent cande- labras, 29 ft. high; two porcelains: Red Room, where Gustavus III. slept (many marble statues here): great gallery, 162 ft. long; wonderful collection of sculp- tures; mythological frescos : two smaller rooms, de- voted to pictures of battles: a second gallery and two rooms devoted to allegories of Peace: Festival Hall, - sometimes called the White Sea, – with richly painted ceilings: Victoria Hall, the Hall of the Columns, and the present king's and queen’s apartments : Library very rich, with many statuettes of great men, Thor- waldsen and others. On the great square, S. of the palace, is an obelisk, erected in 1799, in memory of the fidelity of the citizens of Stockholm during the war of 1788–1790 against the Russians. Near the port, statue of Gustavus III. Behind the obelisk is the Cathedral of Stockholm, Storkyrka, founded in 1260 or 1264, and reconstructed 1726–43, with a spire 308 ft. high; interior divided into 5 naves by rows of columns; altar-piece in ivory, silver, and ebony, representing the birth of the Saviour; organ one of the largest in Swe- den; immense stores of beautiful silver vessels and candelabras; remarkable funereal monuments. Oppo- site the palace, beyond the Slottsbacken, is the House of the Governor of Stockholm, built by Tessin, the most celebrated architect of Sweden, who formerly owned it. In the Stortorget, or great square, the famous Bath of Blood, as it is called in §. history, - the execu- tion of 96 distinguished citizens, excommunicated by the Pope for having defended the rights of the State against the archbishop, — took place. Here is the Bourse, built in 1766; fine halls in the first story. Near by, the German ch. (1642), with tower 222 ft. high, and the only chime of bells in Sweden; authentic 452 STOCKHOLM. portraits of Luther and Melanchthon. Here also is the Knights' House (1648), one of the finest palaces in Stockholm ; noble staircase; walls decorated with the arms of all the nobility of Sweden. Statue of Gustavus Vasa before this house, erected on the 250th anniver- sary of the entry of that king into Stockholm. The courts of justice and other public buildings are not far away. At Skeppsbron, the port, is the telegraph office and the Custom House. The Scandinavian Credić Bank is the finest modern building in the city. The Gothic Ch. of the Knights’ Island (Riddarholms-Kyrkan) is on the Riddarholmen Island, to the W, of the Eques- trian Palace. It belonged to a famous Franciscan convent founded by King Magnus Ladulas, and was reconstructed in 1847. It is 192 ft. long, 60 ft. wide, and the tower is 290 ft. high. It is noticeable as a mausoleum of celebrated men (local guides give de- scription). The chief tomb is that of the Gustavus dynasty. N. of the choir is the Charles Chapel (built 1686–1743), with marble sarcophagus of Charles XII. Here also repose Charles X., Charles XV., Frederick, and many others. Ch. open from May 1 to October 1, Tues. and Thurs., 12–2 P.M.; fee, 25 ö. On the Riddarholmen are also the Royal Courts of Justice, the Chamber of Deputies, the Royal Archives, and the Statue of Birger-Jarl, Go by the great northern bridge— 380 ft. long, in granite, built in 1797 — to Helgeands- holmen, with its pretty gardens, huge bazaar, and royal stables. In the N. section (Noerwaln) is the Gustavus Adol- phus Place and statue, pedestal ornamented with re- liefs of celebrated Swedish generals. On the W., Palace of the Crown Prince. Opposite is the Royal Theatre, inaugurated in 1782. Here Gustavus III. was killed by Ankarström. E., near this square, is the STOCKHOLM. 453 Jacob's Ch. (1590). The S. portal is very rich with sculptures dating from 1644. The poet Kellgren is buried here. To the E. is the Charles XII.’s Place, also called the Royal Garden, with statue of Charles XII. To the S., statue of Charles XIII. Pretty theatre and fountain near by. In the Berzelius Park, statue of Berzelius, the father of chemical science. W. of the Charles XIII. Place is the Museum of the Society of Arts (open daily, except Mon., 11–3, 25 ö. ; Sun., 1–3, free; Mon., Wed., and Fri., 11–3, 50 à.), with collec- tions of pictures, weapons, engravings, and Egyptian and Swedish antiquities. Façade ornamented with statues of noted Swedes. The Historical Museum, founded in the 17th century, is one of the largest of its kind. The Hall of the Middle Ages (1050–1527) is especially interesting. The sculpture-gallery deserves numerous visits. The Italian, German, Flemish, Span- ish, French, Swedish, Norwegian, and Danish schools of painting are well represented. From the National Museum, an iron bridge leads to the Skeppsholmen, an island on which is a ch. of the same name. Here also are the arsenals of the Swedish fleet. The Academy of Fine Arts (1671) is in the Red Shop Square. The Clara-Kyrka (1285; burned 1751; rebuilt 1753) is very interesting. You cross the Mälar Lake on a rly, which cost 5,000,000 crowns. At Kungsholmen are many hospitals and some of the chief manufactories. Also the Mint, and a chi with a fine altar-piece. Not far away is the principal military school. There are many other interesting things in the city quarter (see local guides). The Ch. of the Baptists and the Ch. of St. John should be seen. In the ceme- tery of the latter, Von Dobeln, one of the heroes of the last war against the Russians, is buried. The two principal streets of Stockholm are the Regents’ and 454 UPSALA. Queen Street, -in Swedish, Regeringsgatan and Drott- ninggatan. The Academy of Science, the Natural History Museum, the Technological Institute, the Min- ing School, and the Observatory are all in this quarter. In the Ladugardslanded quarter are the Artillery Square and a ch. founded in 1658, remarkable for its acoustics. Here also is the Royal Library of 200,000 vols., founded under Charles IX. (open daily, except Sat., 11–2). In the Södermalm, or S. faubourg, is the Karl Johans Place, with equestrian statue to memory of that king. Here also, in the Hormgatan, 43, is the house which Swedenborg inhabited for a long time. Near the Mosebacke is the Katharina-Kyrka, on the spot where the decapitated bodies of the victims of the |Battle of Blood were buried. The environs of Stock- holm are noted for their beauty, especially during the wonderfully clear nights of June and July. The little steamers running in all directions afford opportunities for many delightful excursions. The Carlberg and Drottningholm should be visited. The hotel porters will give you lists of excursions and the best manner of making them. . From Stockholm it is 1% hr. by express (5 k. 60 6., 4 k. 5 ö.) to Upsala (Stads-Hotellet; Jernvägs; Svea ; good res- taurants), the most famous university town in Sweden (13,000 inhab.), and the residence of the archbishop and other dignitaries. . It lies on both banks of the Fyrisa, which is crossed by 5 bridges. It was formerly called Ostra-Aros, and when the Swedish kings resided at Gamla Upsala, it was their port. It is the historical and intellectual centre of Sweden, and its mythical associations are of the greatest interest. Visit the Gothic Cathedral (founded 1260), situated on a pictu- resque height. The chief curiosities are the Burial Chapel of Gustavus Wasa (at the back of the choir), and the tomb of Linnaeus, the great botanist. ABO. — HELSINGFORS. 455 N. of this cathedral is St. Eric's Spring, said to have burst forth on the spot where the saint was martyred. The Ch. of the Trinity has many handsome monuments. The University was founded in 1477. Many of its edifices are very striking in architecture. The library building is especially fine. The Library contains 200,000 vols., and 7,000 MSS. Here is the famous transla- tion of the four Gospels by Bishop Ulphilas, dating from the second half of the 4th century. The House of Linnaeus is still shown in Upsala. In the cemetery see monument to Geijer, the poet. There are 1,500 stu- dents at the University. Numerous charming excur- sions in the neighborhood. A pretty excursion is from Upsala to Gefle by rail in 4; hrs. (8 k. 50 å., 5 k. 30 å.). On the way you may see the Castle, which was fortified by Gustavus Vasa, and where Eric XIV. was imprisoned during his insanity. We will not attempt to give other excursions in Sweden, but will recommend the tourist next to pro- ceed from Stockholm to St. Petersburg. RUSSIA. Steamers sail daily in summer from the port of Stock- holm to St. Petersburg in 3–4 days, stopping at Abo, the old capital of Finland, taken from the Swedes in 1809 by the Russians; Helsingſors, one of the strong- est of naturally fortified harbors; and Wyborg, taken from the Swedes by Peter the Great in 1710. The beauty of the hundreds of islands through which the steamer threads its way renders the journey a constant pleasure. The Ahland Islands are about 300 in number. | Shortly after the steamer enters the Gulf of Finland, the dome of St. Isaac's Ch. in St. Petersburg is dis- | tinctly visible. On the way up, the steamer passes 456 ST. PETERSBURG. Cronstadt, the Russian Empire's chief naval station. It is defended by great batteries hewn out of the solid rock, and has extensive docks. The fortifications were begun in 1703 by Peter the Great, and have been greatly strengthened since. The approaching seaward is secured by the erection of batteries and by the sink- ing of ships. An excursion can be made in one day from St. Petersburg to Cronstadt, Oranienbaum, Peter- hoſ, Strelna, and the Monastery of St. Sergius. Oranien- baum is a palace, built in 1724, confiscated to the crown from Mentohikoff’s estate. It commands a magnificent view. The Peterhof Palace, begun in 1720 by Leblond, under the direction of Peter the Great, contains innumer- able articles of vertu, tapestries, marbles, porcelains, malachites, portraits, especially a collection of pictures of feminine beauties, 368 in number, collected from 50 Russian provinces. In front of the palace is a fountain called the Samson. There are two small palaces near here, of which Peter the Great was very fond, and in that of Mont Plaisir he died. . The Hermitage, Aler- andra, where the Emperor lives while at Peterhof, and Strelna, the palace of the Grand Duke Constantine, are in this neighborhood. St. Petersburg (Hôtel d’Angleferre; De Russie ; Demouth's De France ; Bellevue) is the capital of the Russian Empire, and as the headquarters of the official world and the centre of Russian society must always possess a certain interest for the traveller (667,000 inhab.). The common supposition that it is not wise to visit Russia in midsummer is founded upon a mistake. The Russian summer climate is extremely soft and beau- tiful, and the heat is never so intense as in some parts of North America. Of course, the social world is not so gay as in winter, but the tourist who expects to spend but 2 or 3 days in St. Petersburg will hardly care about this. # ST. PETERSBURG. # 457 The city was founded by Peter the Great, about 1703, and, like Madrid, it might be called a capital with malice aforethought ; for the energetic monarch set it down among the marshes through which the river Neva wan- ders towards the sea. On the islands in the channels of the divided Neva the greater part of the city is built. The Admiralty Quarter, so called, containing the public buildings, is on the mainland, on the S. i. of the Neva. St. Petersburg is in many respects a magnificent city, although the contrasts between squalor and great .. are sometimes too sharp to permit of an agree- able impression. When the town was building, under Peter the Great, 40,000 or 50,000 peasants were em- }. for years in filling up the marshes. It was the mpress Catherine who built the splendid granite quay along the Neva's l. bank. The river has overflowed many times, and the inundations in the 18th century and in the early part of the 19th were very disastrous. The or- dinary tourist will find that the difficulties concerning passports, police supervision, etc., have been greatly exaggerated, and if he is not a Nihilist he will not be much troubled. A passport is, however, exacted on en- tering Russia, and has to be delivered up to the hotel roprietor for registration, and he hands it to you on eaving the hotel. The city is divided into 13 quarters, the Admiralty being the principal one. From the Ad- miralty three great streets branch off. They are called the Wosnessensky, the Gorokhowaia, ending at the Champs de Mars; and the famous Nevsky Prospect, where are the most elegant of the shops and many of the chs. and public buildings. The Cathedral of our Lady of Kazan, in the Nevsky Prospect, begun under Alexander I., and consecrated in 1811, is the metropolitan church of St. Petersburg. It is a copy of St. Peter's at Rome, and takes its name 458 ST, PETERSBURG. from an image of the Virgin brought from Kazan to Mos- cow in 1579. See the beautiful Corinthian colonnade, with columns of Finland granite. Interior superb; shrine of chased silver, the gift of Cossacks who served in wars of 1813–14; images before which lamps are al- ways kept burning; flags, arms, and standards, taken in battle ; bronze statues of Kutusoff and Barclay de Tolly in front of the ch. No organ or instrument is used in the service, but great pains are taken to secure good voices. Remark the dº bass intonation. The For- tress and Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul contains in its vaults the tombs of all the sovereigns of Russia since the foundation of St. Petersburg, except Peter II. (buried at Moscow). The fortress part of this edifice is used as a prison, and also contains the imperial Mint. The gilded spire is visible from a great distance. Hun- . dreds of flags are suspended along the walls. The Cathedral of St. Isaac, the largest in St. Peters- burg, is on the site of a ch. built in 1710 by Peter the Great. Its foundations rest upon thousands of piles. The interior is chiefly striking from its splendid propor- tions. Notice the lavish use of polished granite, white marble, malachite, porphyry, and lapis lazuli. Fine view of city from dome. The Winter Palace (admis- sion by tickets procured at entrance of Council of State), built in 1754, in Catherine’s reign, stands on the r. bank of the Neva. This is the imperial city residence, and this building was the scene of the Nihilist conspirators, which finally resulted in the death of Alexander II. in 1881. The exterior is not impressive, but the interior is richly ornamented with paintings, bronzes, marbles, and pre- cious stones. Grand festival here on New Year's B. by the Emperor to all his subjects. See the Ambassa- dor's Staircase on the Neva; also the magnificent flight of white marble steps, leading to the state apartments. ST. PETERSBURG. 459 The Throne Room is the finest in Europe. The White Room, St. George’s Hall, the Field Marshal's Gallery, the Alexander Hall, the Halls of Battles (in which are paintings by Horace Wernet), the Golden Chamber, the Empress's Winter Garden, and the Romanoff Gallery are the principal apartments. Near the entrance of the latter gallery is the green curtain, behind which is a tablet on which are the rules drawn up by the Empress Catherine, to be enforced at her receptions at the Her- mitage. In the jewel room, see the Imperial crown and sceptre (containing a diamond weighing 194 carats). See also room in which Emperor Nicholas died. The Her- 'mitage (open daily except Fri. ; closed in Aug.), close to the Winter Palace, was founded by Catherine in 1765, and rebuilt in 1840–50. The famous museum contains 1,700 paintings of all schools, among them being some by Murillo, Velasquez, Rubens, Van Dyke, Rembrandt, and Ruysdael. There are also vast collections of en- graved stones, and designs by masters. The Taurida Palace, the Anitchkoff Palace, the Michael and the Marble Palaces are not impressive buildings. One or two of them are occasionally open to visitors. The Admiralty is a vast edifice with a façade half a mile long. Near it are the great dockyards, the headquarters of the army, and the War Office. The h'ooden Cottage of Peter the Great, containing many relics of the famous monarch, is near the citadel. The Imperial Library, containing 400,000 vols., is near the Kazan Ch. Other noteworthy libraries are those of the Academy of Science, the Hermitage, and the Alexander Nevsky Monastery. This monastery, is one of the most celebrated in Russia. It was founded by the great Peter in honor of Alexander the Great, who conquered the Swedes and the Fivonians. The museum of the Academy of Science occupies a portion 460 MOSCOW. of the superb building near the Admiralty. The Asiatic Museum is rich in Eastern antiquities. The Romanoff Museum, that attached to the Mining School, that of Natural History, and the Egyptian Museum should be seen. The theatres, kept up at the government expense, are all of large size. The Bolskoy, the Alea’andra, and the French are the principal ones. The opera in St. Petersburg is º The monuments are nearly all good. Those most worthy of attention are the Eques- trian Statue of Peter the Great, with a prancing horse balanced on its hind legs, by Falconet; and the column of Alexander, a single shaft of red granite 80 ft. high, weighing 400 tons, stands near the Winter Palace. The Summer Gardens, 1 M. long, and # M. wide, beautifully ornamented, contain the palace in which Peter the Great occasionally lived. The country around St. Peters- burg is very uninteresting. It is 401} M. from St. Petersburg to Moscow. The rly. carriages are much like those of America in model. The stations are all comfortable, refreshment saloons excellent, and fares reasonable. First-class express to Moscow, 19 roubles; second, 13 roubles. The princi- pal town on the way is 7'ver, at the confluence of the Yvertsa and the Volga. Cathedral, Trinity Ch. Here steamer can be taken to Nijni-Novgorod, and thence to Astrakan. Moscow (Slavianski Bazaar; Dussaua ; Chevrier; D'Angleterre), or Holy Moscow, as the Russians call it, the ancient capital of Russia, formerly the residence of the Emperors, is situated on the Moskowa, in a pleasant country. Up to the great fire in 1812, it was the most irregularly built town in Europe, and to-day it remains original and picturesque in a striking degree. A good view may be had from the Sparrow Hills, on the S. side. In the centre of the city is the Kremlin, a triangle 2 M. MOSCOW. 461 in circuit, filled with palaces, churches, arsenals, and museums. Here the Tartar architecture predominates. An excellent preparation for visiting the Kremlin is the perusal of Théophile Gautier's lively and sparkling book on a “Winter in Russia.” The Redeemer’s Gate and the Gate of St. Nicholas are objects of great veneration among Russians. Visitors must uncover their heads on pass- ing through the Redeemer's Gate. The present Krem- lin Palace is modern, the old Kremlin having been de- stroyed in 1812. Most of the ancient palaces were of wood. To Nicholas I. the erection of the present one is due. The Hall of St. George, the Hall of St. Alew- ander Nevsky, and Sts. Andrew and Catherine, and the Banqueting Hall, as well as the Terem, which contains a collection of the portraits of the czars, and from the terrace of which Napoleon I. looked down upon Mos- cow when he came there as conqueror, are among the Kremlin’s chief marvels. In the little Ch. of the Re- deemer are some beautiful decorations. On the Cathedral Place is the Cathedral of the Assumption, founded in 1325, and rebuilt in 1472. Many sacred treasures here. In this ch. the Emperors of Russia are crowned. The Cathedral of the Archangel Michael contains many tombs of sovereigns. The Ch. of the Annunciation is where the czars are baptized. It is rich with relics. The jewels in all Russian chs. are worth studying. The House of the Synod, the Treasury (open Mon. and Thur., permit at the chamberlain's office), and the Arsenal will furnish plenty of amusement for a day. The Tower of Ivan Veliki, or John the Great, built in 1600, and 320 ft. high, contains 34 bells, the largest of which weighs 64 tons. When all these bells are rung together at Easter the effect is wonderful. At the foot of this tower is the vast Tsar Kolokol, or Monarch of Bells. It once hung in a tower (burned in 1737); weighs 444,000 lbs. ; and is 20 ft. high and 60 ft. round. The value of 462 NIJNI-NOVGOROID. — ODESSA. the metal in the bell is nearly $2,000,000. Outside the Rremlin is the Chinese town, so called, founded b Helena. Here are the Cathedral of St. Basil, built in 1554 by Ivan IV., the Romanoff Palace, the Iberian Gate and Chapel, the University (900 students), the great Iriding School, the Theatres, and the largest Bazaar in Russia, except that of Nijni-Novgorod. The pigeon being looked upon as icº by the Russians, thousands of these birds are to be seen in the streets of Moscow. S. of Moscow is a beautiful villa owned by the Imperial family. s It is 271; M. from Moscow to Nijmi-Novgorod. Tourists pressed for time can take night train there; spend the day at Nijmi; and return the next night (fares, 12 roubles, 3 c.; 9 roubles, 22 c). Nijni-Novgorod (De Russie, Egoroff's), a city of 45,000 inhab., is celebrated for its great fair, held an- nually in July and Aug., and attended by 200,000 peo- ple. Here the inhabitants of the barbaric East come into close contact with the Western merchants and vis- itors. The town is at the confluence of the Oka and the Volga. The Kremlin is on a bank overhanging the Wolga. The transactions at the fair amount annually to $80,000,000. From Moscow to Odessa (time, 33% hrs.; fare, 40 rou- bles, 63 c.) the route passes through Karkoff, Poltava, and Balta. Odessa (De Londres ; De St. Pétersbourg) was founded in Catherine II.’s reign. It is an important commercial port, with 119,000 inhab. ; but there is little of interest to the traveller except the Cathedral, a small museum, a bronze statue of Richelieu, and the Jniversity. Steamers leave Odessa twice a week for the Crimea and Sebastopol, and the field of the Cri- mean war may easily be visited. . There is also steam communication with Constantinople. TABLE OF CIVIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, MIN- ERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, AND HYDRO- PATHIC ESTABLISHMENTS. Times and railway fares are calculated from Paris. Aix-la-Chapelle (10 hrs from Paris; fare, 48 fr.). — Sulphurous alkaline waters, 107° to 120° F. For skin dis- eases, rheumatism, chronic diseases of the nervous centres, neuralgias, paralysis, and syphilitic maladies. Aix-les-Bains (14% hrs. ; 71 fr. 60 c.). —Sulphurous hot springs, 112° to 114° F. Have a world-wide reputa- tion in cases of rheumatism and gout; , also chronic catarrh of the neck of the womb, amenorrhoea, metritis, syphilis, bronchitis, laryngeal and nasal catarrh, pharyngitis, wounds by fire-arms. April to Nov., and all the year. Amélie-les-Bains (24% hrs. ; 120+ fr.). —Sulphurous sodaic waters, 71° to 172°F., and winter station. Herpetic diathesis, and catarrhal affections. All the year. Arcachon (10 hrs. ; 78 fr. 70 c.). — Winter station, and sea baths. For invalids requiring a sedative air; for delicate, lymphatic, and anaemic persons; nervous complaints; chest and lung affectious; scrofula ; gout. Winter season, from Nov. till June ; summer, from May till Oct. Aulus (243 hrs. ; 119 fr.). — Alkaline waters, 48° F. Purgative, laxative, and diuretic action, according to dose, in diseases of the liver, in arthritic affections, and in syphilis. Baden (27 hrs. ; 152% fr.). — Sulphurous waters, 82° to 95° F. For rheumatism, gout, anaemia, and scrofula (espe- cially of a chronic character). May to Oct., and all the year. Baden-Baden (16 hrs. ; 68 fr.). — Alkaline chloride of sodium waters, 110° to 150°F, Uric acid diathesis, gout, and kindred complaints; ailments dependent on malaria, and certain skin diseases; chronic rheumatism; wounds, frac- tures of the bones, scrofula, syphilis, chronic catarrh, certain kidney affections, anaemia. May to Oct. and all the year. 462 a ~~~~…~~~~~~ºgºrºººººº-º-º-º: 462 b CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, Bagnères-de-Bigorre (22 hrs. ; 105 fr.). — Saline, sulphurous, ferruginous, and arsenical waters, 72° to 120° F. For tuberculosis, affections of the respiratory organs, intes- times, and urinary system, anaemia, and female disorders. June to Sept., baths; Nov. to May, winter station. Bagnoles (19 hrs. ; 67 fr. 65 c.). — Saline, sulphurous, lithic, silicate, and arsenical waters, 66° F. For diseases of the digestive organs, skin, rheumatism, and scrofula, chlor- osis, congestion of the abdominal viscera, phlebitis, &c. Barèges (2.1% hrs. ; 113 fr.). — Alkali-saline-sulphurous waters, 45° to 105° F. For scrofula, diseases of the bones, herpes and syphilis. June 15 to Sept. 15. Biarritz (19% hrs. ; 96 fr. 80 c.). — Sea-bathing and winter station. For chlorosis, anaemia, chest and lung com- plaints, laryngitis, pharyngitis. Aug. to May. Bourbon-l'Archambault (63 hrs. ; , 40 fr. 75 c.). — Bromo-iodurated saline waters, 125° F. ; and bicarbonate ferruginous magnesian waters, 120° to 160°F., highly gase- ous. For scrofula, rheumatism, paralysis, nervous affections. Bourboule (La) (J3% hrs. ; 60 fr.). — Effervescent saline arsenical waters (28 milligr. arseniate of soda per litre), 140°F. For anaemia, lymphatism, general debility, affections of the skin and respiratory organs, rheumatism, and intermittent fevers. May 25 to Sept. 30. Cannes (20% hrs. ; 130 fr.). — Winter station of first importance; climate tonic and stimulating near the sea; sedative towards Le Cannet. Sea baths in spring; season, Oct. to May. For nervous debility, anaemia, phthisis, laryn- gitis, pharyngitis, rheumatism, paralysis, gout, and diabetes. Carlsbrunn. — Highly effervescing, ferruginous manga- nese waters, 45° F.; climatic station. For dcbility of the male and female sexual organs, sterility, impotence, affections of the brain due to overwork. June to Sept. * Castellamare di Stabia (50% hrs. ; 248 fr.). — Sea baths; cold chloride of sodium, bitter and sulphurous chaly- beate waters. For obstructions of the liver and spleen, affections of the mesenteric glands, biliary and vesical calculi, MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 462 c jaundice, dropsy, hemorrhoids, chronic ophthalmia, herpes, catarrh of the digestive organs, hypochondriasis, urinary cal- culi, vesical catarrh, scrofula, lymphatism, congestion of the uterus, leucorrhoea, &c. Sea and mineral bathing, May to Oct. ; winter season, Oct. to April. . Cauterets (21} hrs. ; 111 fr. 90 c.). — Sulphate of soda springs, 55° to 145° F. For catarrh of the respiratory organs, skin diseases, uterine affections, scrofula. Contrexéville (10 hrs, ; 51% fr.). -- Effervescent alka- line, slightly ferruginous waters, 55° F. Especially for gravel, biliary and vesical calculi, and catarrh, diabetes, gout, and gouty rheumatism, disorders of the urinary system, affec- tions of the uterus, hepatic complaints. May 20 to Sept. Dax (15 hrs. ; 90 fr. 80 c.). — Hyperthermal mixed sul- phurous waters, 120° to 145° F. For articular, muscular, or rheumatic affections, gout, neuralgia, and neuroses. Dieppe (4 hrs. ; 20 fr. 65 c.). — Much-frequented sea- bathing and summer resort. Divonne-les-Bains (15% hrs. ; 81 fr.). — Cold water springs; water exceptionally pure, 44°F. For chronic rheu- matic arthritis, lumbago, pleuro-dynia, gout, sciatica, neu- ralgia, hypochondria, meuroses, gastralgia, bronchial catarrh, dyspepsia, liver and bladder complaints, hemorrhoids, paraly- sis, chronic affections of the spinal cord, scrofula, and female disorders. Eaux-Bonnes (18 hrs. ; 105 fr.). — Sulphurous saline and alkaline waters, 90°F. For angina pectoris, and laryn- gitis, bronchitis, and chronic catarrh, asthma, chronic pleu- ritis, anaemia, lymphatism, and scrofula. June to Sept. Ems (16+. hrs. ; 71 fr. 15 c.). — Saline alkaline and sa- line earthy, 65° to 110°F. These waters act on the lungs and chest, and on nervous diseases. May to Oct. Enghien (20 min. ; 1 fr. 35 c.). — Cold sulphurous and lime waters. For scrofula, affections of respiratory organs, herpes, and rheumatism. Etretat (5 hrs. 50 min. ; 28 fr.). — A now much-fre- quented resort for sea-bathing in summer. 462 d CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, Evian-les-Bains (13 hrs. ; 82 fr. 80 c.). — Alkaline waters, and climatic air station. For affections of the uri- nary and digestive organs, the liver and biliary apparatus. Geneva (14 hrs. ; 77 fr.). — Milk cure. Bathers from Aix-les-Bains come here to rest after their cure. Görbersdorf (39 hrs. ; 167% fr.). — Noted for its moun- tain-air cure, in affections of the respiratory organs. Anae- mia and chlorosis are also treated. - Grasse. — Dry and sedative climate; winter station; Oct. to June. Chest and lung complaints, pharyngitis, nervous affections, anaemia, chlorosis. . . Homburg-les-Bains (18 hrs. 40 min. ; 86 fr. 69 c.). — Saline, ferruginous, and acidulous waters. For dyspepsia, scrofula, and anaemia. 3. Hyères (20 hrs. ; 117 fr.). — Winter season, Nov. to June ; sea-bathing, May to Oct. For diseases of the larynx, chest, and lungs, scrofula, diabetes, gout, and rheumatism. Interlaken (18 hrs. ; 78 fr. 65 c.). — Climatic station in summer, visited for its beautiful environs. Whey cure. Ischia (50% hrs. ; 288% fr.). — Alkali-saline waters, 145° F. For uterine affections, rheumatism, diseases of the bones, sores, gout, and paralysis. Spring and autumn. Ischl (23# hrs. ; 168 fr. 90 c.). — A climatic summer station ; May to Oct. Saline and cold sulphurous waters; whey cure; saline, steam, hot and cold brine, and sulphurous baths; mud, malt, pine-cone, sap, and wave baths; inhala- tion. Recommended for nervous affections. Karlsbad (32 hrs. ; 137 fr.). — Polymetallic waters, 125° to 170° F. For constipation, liver and bilious com- plaints, plethora, obesity, gout, gravel, &c. - Kissingen (21 hrs. 40 min. ; 106 fr.). — Cold saline waters, strongly mineralized; tonic and excitant. Especially suited to abdominal and hemorrhoidal congestions. Kreuznach (13% hrs. ; 72 fr.). — Bromo-iodurated sa- line waters. Forscrofulous affections, diseases of the ears, respiratory organs, bones, and joints, all female and skin diseases, and in chronic affections generally. May to Oct. MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 462 e Lausanne (15% hrs. ; 64 fr. 20 c.). — Climatic station in summer and autumn ; bracing air and grape cure. Loèche-les-Bains (30 hrs. ; 100 fr.). — Various springs; hot saline earthy waters, 70° to 120°F. For struma, herpes, and skin diseases, scrofula, rheumatism, chronic bronchitis, inveterate syphilis, &c. May 15 to Sept. 30. Luchon (19% hrs. ; 103} fr.). — Upwards of fifty differ- ent springs, mineralized by hydro-sulphuric acid; also ferru- ginousand alkaline. For rheumatism, scrofula, bronchial and skin diseases, and chronic sores. June to Sept. Luxeuil (11% hrs. ; 60 fr.). — Saline, ferruginous, and magnesian waters; eleven springs, 70° to 125° F. They are first excitant, then sedative; and good in cases of neural- gia, rheumatism, paralysis, gastralgia, &c. -- Madeira (steamers from Southampton, Bordeaux, or Lis- bon; journey 5 to 6 days; 500 fr.). — Highly recommended for pulmonary complaints; climate delightful; no winter. Mentone (24% hrs. ; 139 fr.). — Winter station of first importance, and sea baths. For all forms of chest diseases and rheumatism, cachetic complaints, and debility. Winter season, November to June; sea-bathing, May to Oct. x Monaco (24% hrs.; 138 ſr.). — Monte Carlo is the favorite winter resort of pleasure-seekers. One of the most sheltered stations on the Riviera. Sea baths; May to Oct. Mont-Dor (11 hrs. ; 64% fr.). — Biearbonate, arsen- ical, and effervescent ferruginous waters, 107° to 115° F. For all forms of chest diseases and of the respiratory tract ; ophthalmia, rheuthatic and nervous affections, disorders of the uterus and skin. June 1 to Oct. 1. Naples (48 hrs. ; 223 fr. 85 c.). — The great variety of mineral waters and their therapeutic properties have rendered this delightful city and its environs the most frequented bath- ing station in Italy. Sea baths. Nice (22 hrs. ; 134 fr. 20 c.). — Winter station of first importance. For chronic diseases of the chest, lungs, and respiratory organs; affections of the larynx, liver complaints, disorders of the spinal cord, diabetes, gout, rheumatism, 462 f CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, paralysis, debility. Winter season, Nov. to June; sea-bathing season, May to Oct. ; principal season, Jan. to March. Ostend (14 hrs. ; 38 fr. 40 c.) — Sea baths. Sandy beach and bracing climate. Season, June 1 to Oct. 1. Palermo (664 hrs. ; 23.9% fr.). — Winter station; sea baths. Season, Nov. to April; bathing season, May to Oct. Pau (17% hrs. ; 101 fr.). — Winter resort of first im- portance. For chest complaints, consumption (inflammatory action and blood-spitting), asthma, bronchitis, rheumatism, neuralgia, and nervous disorders. Nov. 15 to May 31. Pierrefonds (2} hrs. ; 12 fr.). — One cold sulphate of lime spring; one ferruginous and arsenical. Pulmonary catarrh. Plombières (11 hrs. ; 45 fr.). — The springs range from 30° to 175°. F. For rheumatism, paralysis, herpes, nervous debility, hysteria. Pougues (5 hrs. ; 29 fr. 70 c.). — Mixed bicarbonate ferruginous gaseous waters. Affections of the digestive organs. Preste (La) (23% hrs. ; 145 f.). — Very efficacious wa- ters in diseases of the urinary organs, gravel. 90° to 105°F. Püllna. — No treatment at Püllna itself; the waters are exported, and considered excellent as preservatives and reme- dies against diseases of the digestive organs, constipation, congestions, liver and bladder complaints, nervous disorders, obesity, diseases of the eye, headache, and gastritis. Pyrmont (18 hrs. ; 84 fr. 30 c.). — Chalybeate springs of importance and much renown; effervescent saline waters, brine baths, inhalations. For female complaints, especially anaemia, chlorosis, scrofula, stomachic and fatestinal catarrhs, obesity, affections of spleen and liver. Season, May 15 to Oct. 1; Recoaro (344 hrs. ; 139% fr.). — Alkaline, acidulated ferruginous waters, 45° F. For chronic and nervous debil- ity, female diseases, obesity, anaemia, chlorosis, gravel and vesical calculus, congestion of the liver, biliary calculi, hem- orrhoidal complaints, intestinal catarrhs. May to Sept. Rome (49% hrs. ; 201 fr. 90 c.). — Winter station of first importance. For debility and scrofula in children, i chronic catarrh of the bronchi, enlphysema. The climate is MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 462 g sedative to the nerves and respiratory organs; but patients should first consult their doctor. Oct. to May. Rorschach. — Climatic station in summer; baths in the lake; Turkish baths; very pure and equable atmosphere. Royat (9% hrs. ; 51% fr.). — Four springs : mixed alka- line, gaseous, ferruginous, and slightly arsenical and lithic waters, 45° to 95° F. For lymphatic affections, anaemia, chlorosis, catarrhal affections, arthritic gout, and skin dis- eases dependent on a gouty diathesis. St. Galmier. — Alkaline table waters, used in France. St. Moritz (34 hrs. ; 130 fr. 60 c.). —Climatic moun- tain-air station. Two ferruginous springs, very cold and very effervescing. For phthisis. St. Raphaël (19} hrs. ; 130 fr. 20 c.). — Winter sta- tion and sea baths; summer, May 1 to Nov. 1; winter, Nov. 1 to June 1. For atonic debility, rachitis, scrofula, lymphatic affections, chest and lung complaints, diabetes, rheumatism, gout, emphysema, anaema, and chlorosis. San Remo. —Winter station of first importance; la- tent scrofula, chronic bronchial, stomachic, and intestinal catarrh, emphysema, pharyngitis, laryngitis, pleuritic exu- dations, incipient phthisis, rheumatism, Bright's disease, diabetes, and general debility. Nov. to May. Saxon (18 hrs. ; 73 fr. 55 c.). — Bromo-iodurated sa- line waters, 60° F. For syphilis, scrofula, and gout. Scheveningen (15% hrs. ; 67 fr. 70 c.). — Very well frequented summer resort; sea-bathing; beach of fine sands. Schinznach (17 hrs. ; 72 fr.). — Sulphurous waters, rich in sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid, also in chloride of sodium and salts of lime, 95° F. For chronic skin diseases, eczema, acne, psoriasis, &c., scrofula, chronic catarrh, bronchitis, emphysema, asthma, rheumatism, gout, syphilis, mercurialism; May to Oct. Schlangenbad (19 hrs. 10 min. ; 81% fr.). — Nine springs, 75° to 90°F. For menstrual difficulties in delicate women; general debility in children, women, and aged per- sons; gout, partial paralysis. May 1 to Oct. 1. Schwalbach (20 hrs. ; 83 fr. 5 c.). — Chalybeate wa- # 462 h CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, ters. For all female complaints; anaemia, chlorosis, nervous affections, debility of muscles and mucous membranes, espe- cially catarrhal affections of the genital organs. May to Oct. Spa (8% hrs. ; 44% fr.). --- Highly effervescent ferrugi- nous and acidulous waters. For anaemia, chlorosis, female complaints, hysteria, gastralgia, sterility, difficult menstrua- tion, liver complaints, urinary disorders, cachexia, mucous catarrh of the uterus, &c. May to Oct. Spezzia (28 hrs. ; 130 fr. 40 c.). — Winter air-cure and summer sea-bathing resort. - Teplitz-Schönau (32 hrs. ; 14.5% fr.). — Alkali-saline waters, 95° to 125° F. For rheumatism, gout, neuralgia, paralysis, incipient spinal complaints, scrofulous tumors and sores, fractures, anchylosis, &c. May to Nov. Trouville (6 hrs. ; 28 fr. 65 c.). — Fashionable and much-frequented summer station; sea baths, sandy beach. Uriage (143 hrs. ; 79 fr.). — Saline sulphurous waters, 81°F. For scrofula, chronic affections of the skin, rheuma- tism, nervous affections, diseases of the eyelids, granular pharyngitis, &c. Milk and whey cure. May 15 to Oct. 15. Valencia.--Spanish winter resort; sea baths, sandy beach. Vals (17% hrs. ; 87 fr.). — Cold alkaline springs, light, medium, and strong; principally used as table waters. For gravel, liver complaints, and disorders of the spleen. Venice (36 hrs. ; 154 fr.). — Sea baths and winter sta- tion ; sedative climate, somewhat like that of Pau. . Vevey (163 hrs. ; 86% fr.). -- Air-cure station, much frequented on account of the mildness of its temperature. Vichy (8% hrs. ; 45 fr.). — Bicarbonate of soda alkaline springs, 35° to 105° F. For dyspepsia, hepatic disorders, uric acid diathesis, catarrh of the urinary organs, diabetes. Vöslau (27% hrs. ; 156 fr. 95 c.). --— A favorite climatic resort of the Viennese. May 15 to Sept. 30; grape cure, Sept. to Oct. Wiesbaden (15 hrs. ; 86 fr. 45 c.). — The waters are excitant, resolvent, reconstituent, and laxative, 30° to 165°F. For scrofula, rheumatism, paralysis, and impaired digestion. Zurich (18 hrs. ; 85 fr. 10 c.). —Earthy alkaline waters. DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS OF THE UNITED STATES IN THE PRINCIPAL EUROPEAN COUNTRIES. Vienna . Buda Pesth. Prague . Trieste . Fiume Brussels. Antwerp Charleroi Ghent . Ostend . --~~~~ Austria-Hungary . Minister . Consul . £ & {{ § { Belgium. . . Minister . Consul . & & {{ £ & & & Werviers & Liège “ Copenhagen. Elsinore. Denmark. . Minister . Consul. & & . J. P. . H. B. R. L. . . ALPHONso TAFT. § { Sec. of Leg. & Con.-Gen. James Riley Weaver. . Henry Sterne. . Charles A. Phelps. . O. W. Tousley. . L. Francovitch. . NICHOLAS FISH. . John Wilson. . J. H. Steuart. . Chas. Wander-Elst. . Alf. Lefebvre. . A. J. Neuts. . G. C. Tanner. WICKERSHAM. Ryder. Ulstrup. 464 DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS Paris 6 & & & Algiers Calais Oran . Bordeaux Bayonne Pau . Havre Brest . . Cherbourg . La Rochelle Cognac . Limoges. Lyons Marseilles . Toulon . Nantes St. Nazaire . Nice . . Cannes . Mentone Monaco . Rheims . Rouen Dieppe . e * sº & * Berlin & & & & France. . Minister . . Sec. of Legation . Consul-General . Consul. & g {s Germany. . Minister . Sec. of Legation . Consul-General . . J. T. Du Bois. Aix-La-Chapelle Consul . Elberfeld Bremen . { { LEVI P. MoRTon. E. J. Brulatour. George Walker. . Alex. Jourdan. . C. P. Williams. . Isadore Castel. . Geo. W. Roosevelt. . Gersam Leon. . G. De M. Clay. . John B. Glover. . L. Vienne. . Emile Postel. . Geo. Gifford. . T. P. Smith. . Aug. Jouhannaud. . B. F. Peixotto. . Horace A. Taylor. . Alfred Reynaud. . Thomas Wilson. . Henry P. Sutton. . W. F. Rowland. . Theo. D. Walcourt. . Nicolas Viale. Émile de Loth. . John L. Frisbie. Jules LeVert. A. A. SARGENT. H. S. Everett. M. S. Brewer. . Albert Rhodes. . J. M. Wilson. OF THE UNITED STATES. 465 Brunswick . Cologne . . . Crefeld . Dresden . Düsseldorf . Frankfort Hamburg . . Altona . . . Leipsic . Mannheim . Mayence . . Munich . . Nuremberg. Stuttgart London . & ſº {{ Liverpool Belfast . Birmingham Kidderminster . Wolverhampton Bradford Bristol Cardiff . Cork . Dublin . Dundee . Falmouth Gibraltar Glasgow Hull e Leeds . . . Leith * Manchester. . Consul . {& . W. C. Fox. . S. Spackman. . J. S. Potter. . J. T. Mason. . Wm. D. Wamer. . Ferd. Vogeler. * John M. Bailey. . Paul Moller. . J. E. Montgomery. . E. M. Smith. . J. H. Smith. J. W. Harper. . G. H. Horstmann. . Geo. L. Catlin. Great Britain. - . JAMES R. Lowell. . Minister * } . Sec. of Legation . Wm. J. Happin. . Consul-General . . Consul. & & & 6 & & & & {{ E. A. Merritt. . S. B. Packard. . A. B. Wood. . Wilson King. . James Morton. . John Neve. . Wm. F. Grinnell. . L. A. Lathrop. . W. W. Sikes. . J. J. Piatt. . B. H. Barrows. . W. B. Wells. . Howard Fox. . H. J. Sprague. . Bret Harte. . E. Howard. . A. W. Dockery. . J. A. Leonard. . A. D. Shaw. 80 466 DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS Newcastle . Nottingham Plymouth Sheffield. Southampton . Athens Piraeus Rome & & Venice Civita Vecchia. Palermo. Naples . Milan Messina . Leghorn. Genoa Florence. Castelmare . Brindisi. . Sec. of Leg. & Con-Gen. * The Hague . Amsterdam . Rotterdam . Flushing Lisbon Oporto . Bucharest . Galatz * . Consul . tº º tº tº & & & & Greece. . Minister, . . Consul. Italy. . Minister . Consul . . . . & 6 & Holland. . Mºnister . Consul. & & & & Portugal. Minister & Con.-Gen. . Wm. Stüve. . Consul. Roumania. . Minister . Consul . . E. R. Jones. . Jasper Smith. . Henry Fox. . C. B. Webster. . Wm. Thomson. . EUGENE SCHUYLER. . Anthony Martelao. W. W. ASTOR. Lewis Richmond. McWalter B. Noyes. . G. Marsamick. . S. P. Bayly. , B. O. Duncan. . D. J. Crain. . G. H. Owen. . C. P. Barnard. . John F. Hazelton. . Wm. Lowber Welsh. . A. M. Wood. . E. Bedloe. . W.M. L. DAYTON. . David Eckstein. . J. F. Winter. . Peter Smith. J. M. FRANCIS. . EUGENE SCHUYLER. . T. C. Smith. OF THE UNITED STATES. 467 Russia. . Minister . Sec. of Legation . Consul-General Moscow . . Consul. Helsingfors . . “ . . . Odessa . . . “ . . . Cronstadt . . “ . . Warsaw . . . “ St. Petersburg &g Spain. . Minister . . . Sec. of Legation Madrid . & & Alicante . . . Consul. Barcelona . . “ . . Cadiz . . . “ . . . &g Malaga . Santander . & 6 . W.M. H. Hunt. . W. Hoffman. . Edgar Stanton. . E. G. van Riper. . Herman Donner. . Fulton Paul. . Paul Morch. . Joseph Rawicz. . HANNIBAL HAMLIN. . Dwight T. Reed. . W. L. Giro. . F. H. Schench. . E. P. Oppenheim. . H. C. Marston. . A. H. Harrison. Sweden and Norway. Stockholm . . Minister . John L. STEvens. & & . Consul. . N. A. Elfwing. Christiania . & sº . Gerhard Gade. Bergen . & & . F. G. Gade. Gothenburg & & . S. W. Cooper. Switzerland. Berne . Minister & Con.-Gen. M. J. CRAMER. Basle. . Consul . . . . F. H. Mason. Geneva . & & . L. T. Adams. Zurich . . . {{ Turkey. Constantinople Minister {{ . S. H. M. Byers. . LEWIS WALLACE. &c. º. 3 Con-Gen. G. Harris Hean. A. SHORT VOCAEUT , AIRY One. Two. Three. Four. Five. Six. Seven. Eight. Nine. Ten. Eleven. Twelve. Thirteen. Fourteen. Fifteen. Sixteen. Seventeen. Eighteen. Nineteen. Twenty. Twenty-one. Twenty-two. Twenty-three, etc. Thirty. Thirty-one. Thirty-two, etc. Forty. Fifty. Sixty. Seventy. IN ENGLISH, FRENCH, | | Un. Deux. Trois. Quatre. . Cinq. Six. Sept. Huit. Neuf. | Dix. Onze. | Douze. Treize. Quatorze. Quinze. Seize. Dix-sept. Dix-huit. Dix-neuf. Vingt. Vingt-et-un. Vingt-deux. Vingt-trois, etc. Trente. • Trente-et-un. Trente-deux, etc. Quarante. Cinquante. Soixante. Soixante-dix. OF VVORDS AND PHIRASES GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. Eins. Zwei. Drei. Wier. Fünf, Sechs. Sieben. Acht. Neun. Zehn. Elf. Zwölf. Dreizehn. Wierzehn. Fünfzehn. Sechzehn. Siebzehn. Achtzehn. Neunzehn. Zwanzig. Ein und Zwanzig. Zwei und Zwanzig. T)rei und Zwanzig, etc. Pºi Ein und dreissig. Zwei und dreissig, etc. Wierzig. . Fünfzig. Sechzig. Siebzig. Uno. Due. Tre. Quattro. Cinque. Sei. Sette. Otto. Nove. Dieci. Undici. Dodici. Tredici. Quattordici. Quindici. Sedici. Diecisette; diciasette. Dieciotto; diciotto. Diecinove; diciannove. Venti. Went’ uno. Venti due. Venti tre, etc. Trenta. Trent’ uno. Trenta due, etc. Quaranta. Cinquanta. Sessanta. Settanta. 470 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, Eighty. Ninety. A hundred. Two hundred, etc. A thousand. , Eleven hundred. Twelve hundred. Two thousand, etc. A million. The first. The second. The third. The fourth. The fifth. The sixth. The seventh. The eighth. The ninth. The tenth. The eleventh. The last. The last but one. ' Once. Twice. The half.. The third. The fourth. The fifth. The sixth, etc. A river. A fountain. A waterfall. The gate. An hour. Half an hour. Quatre-vingt. Quatre-vingt-dix. Cent. Deux cents, etc. Mille. Onze cents. Douze cents. Deux mille, etc. Un million. Le premier. Le second. Le troisième. Le quatrième. Le cinquième, Le sixième. Le septième. Le huitième. Le neuvième. Le dixième. Le onzième. Le dernier. L'avant-dernier. Une fois. Deux fois. La moitié. Demi. Le tiers. Le quart. Le cinquième. Le sixième, etc. Une rivière. Une fontaine. Une cascade. La porte. Une heure. Une demi-heure. FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 471 Achtzig. Neunzig. Hundert. Zweihundert, etc. Tausend. Elfhundert. Zwölfhundert. Zwei Tausend, etc. IEine Million. Der Erste. Der Zweite. Der Dritte. Der Wierte. Der Fünfte. Der Sechste. Der Siebente. Der Achte. Der Neunte. Der Zehnte. Der Elfte. Der Letzte. Der Worletzte. Einmal. Zweimal. Die Hälſte. Halb. Das Drittel. Das Viertel. Das Fünftel. Das Sechstel, etc. Ein Fluss. in Brunnen. Ein Wasserfall. Das Thor. Eine Stunde. Eine halbe Stunde. Ottanta. Novanta. Cento. Duecento; dugento, etc. Mille. Mille cento. Mille dugento. Due mila, etc. Un milione. Il primo. Il secondo. Il terzo. Il quarto. Il quinto. Il sesto. Il settimo. L'ottavo. Il nono. Il decimo. L'undecimo; decimo primo. L'ultimo. Il penultimo. Una volta. Due volte. La meta. Mezzo. Il terzo. Il quarto. Il quinto. Il sesto, etc. Un fiume. Una fontana; una fonte. Una cascata. La porta. Un’ ora. Una mezz’ ora. 472 woRDs AND PHRASEs IN ENGLISH, A quarter of an hour. Sunday. Monday. Tuesday. Wednesday. Thursday. Friday. Saturday. A holiday. The walls of the town. A monument. The tower. A church. The cathedral, minster. A Convent . & A chapel. A palace. The town-hall ^Tfie easfle. # fle#e. The custom-house. G S -O 96 # ibrary. The uniVersity. The † | The bank. A square. A bridge. A shop. , . A bookseller's shop. A coffee-house. † inn; a hotel. A furnished #09IIl. Breakfast. --•"-- Un quart d'heure Dimanche. Lundi. Mardi. Mercredi Jeudi. Vendredi. Samedi. Un jour de fête. Les murs de la ville. Un monument. La tour. Une église. La cathédrale. Un couvent. Une chapelle. Un palais. L'hôtel de ville. Le château. Le théâtre. La douane. r Le bureau des postes. La bibliothèque. L'université. La bourse. La banque. Une place. Un pont. Une boutique. Une librairie. Un café. Une auberge ; un hôtel. Un restaurant. Une chambre garnie. Le déjeûner. FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 473 Eine viertel Stunde. Sonntag. Montag. Dienstag. Mittwoch. Donnerstag. Freitag. Samstag; Sonnabend. Ein Feiertag; ein Festtag. Die Stadtmauern. Ein Denkmal. Der Thurm. IEine Kirche. Das Münster: der Dom. Il l IV 1OSU62I. Eine Kapelle. Ein Palast. Das-Railhaus. is Scloss- S NSC Il clauspielhaus. Dàs Zollhaus, Mauthhaus. 16 i OSU. De Bibliothek. Dietſniversität. Die Börse. Die Bank. in Platz. Eine Brücke. Ein Kaufladen. Ein Buchladen. Ein Kaffehaus. Ein Gasthaus; ein Gasthof. Ein Speise - Ein iblfrſes Zimmer. ruhStuGR, Un quarto d'ora. Domenica. Lunedì. Martedì. Mercoledì. Giovedì. Venerdì. Sabbato. Un giorno di festa. Le murà della città. Un monumento. La torre. Una chiesa. La cattedrale. Un convento. Una cappella. Un palazzo. La casa della città. Il castello. Il teatro. La dogana. L' uffizio delle poste. La biblioteca; i" libreria. L'università. La borsa. La banca. Una piazza. Un ponte. Una bottega. Una libreria. Un caffè. Un albergo; una locanda Un trattore. Una stanza mobigliata. La colazione. 474 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, Luncheon. Soup. Roast-beef. Beef-steak. Veal. Mutton. Pork. Fish. Eggs. Cake. . Butter. Cheese. Beer. Ale. Port. Sherry. Ices. A-railway , . An express train. hat is true. · I believe so. It is late. I am fatigued. I am thirsty; Iam hungry. It is time to set off. That is not true. I did not understand. lO iS it º X w What are you doing ? What do you want ? Where are you ? Where is he ? What is he doing ? Where are you going ? What do you say ? Une collation. La soupe. -& Du bœuf rôti, roast-beef. Beef-steak. Du veau. Du mouton. . Du cochon. Le poisson. Des œufs. Le gâteau. Le beurre. Le fromage. La bière. L'ale. X Le vin d'Oporto. Le vin de Xérès. Les glaces. Un chemin de fer. Un train de vitesse. C'est vrai. Je le crois. Il est tard. Je suis fatigué. J'ai soif; j'ai faim. Il est temps de partir. · Cela n'est pas vrai. Je n'avais pas compris. Qui est-ce ? Que faites-vous ? Que voulez-vous ? Où êtes-vous ? Où est-il ? Que fait-il ? Où allez-vous ? Que dites-vous ? FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 475 Eine Zwischen-Mahlzeit. Die Suppe. Ochsenbraten. Beef-steak. Kalbfleisch. Hammelfleisch. Schweinefleisch. Der Fisch. Eier. Der Kuchen. Die Butter. Der Käse. Das Bier. Das Ale. Der Portwein. Xereswein. Das Eis. " Ein Schmelzug, iº Ich glaube es. Es ist spät. Ich bin mùde. Ich bin durstig; hungrig. Es ist Zeit abzureisen. Das ist nicht wahr. "iniº er ist eS ? Was machen Sie ? Was wollen Sie ? Wo sind Sie? Wo ister? Was macht er? Wohin gehen Sie? Was sagen Sie? Una colazione. La zuppa. Dell'arrosto di bue. Beef-steak. Del vitello. Del castrato. Del majale. Il pesce. Delle uova. La focaccia. Il burro, butiro. Il formaggio. La birra. La birra fatta con formento. Il vino d' Oporto. Il vino di Xeres. I sorbetti; i gelati. Una strada ferrata. Convoglio celere. VerO. Lo credo. È tardi. Sono stracco. Ho sete; ho fame. ora di partire. Ciò non è vero. Non aveva capito. Chi è ? Che cosa fate? Che cosa volete? Dove siete? Dov'è ? Che cosa fa? Dove andate ? Che cosa dite ? 476 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, Did you understand me? Is dinner ready ? s iſ time to go P Where shall we go? When shall we set out? Are there any letters for Iſle : Come here. Make haste. Tell him to come. Take care. Stop. Not so quick. Speak to him. Do what I tell you. Go away. Bring up the carriage. Call (Wake) me at five o’clock. *s. Yesterday. To-day. To-morrow. Every day. What name do you give to that dish P Bring me some bread. Bring me a glass of water. How much for wine? What is the name of it P At what hour shall we ar- rive at X? M’avez-vous compris? Le diner est-il prêt P Est-il temps de partir P Où irons-nous P Quand partirons-nous? Y a-t-il des lettres pour moi ? Venez-ici. Dépêchez-vous. Dites-lui de venir. Prenez garde. Arrêtez. Pas si vite. Parlez-lui. Faites ce que je vous dis. Allez-vous en. Faites avancer la voiture. Reveillez-moi à cinq heures. Hier. Aujourd’hui. Demain. Tous les jours. Quel nom donnez-vous à ce mets P Apportez-moi du pain. Apportez-moi un verre d'eau. Combien le vin? Comment l’appelez-vous? A quelle heure arriverons- mous à X? 3. FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 477 Haben Sie verstanden ? Istdas Mittagsessenfertig? IS èif afgureisen ? Wohin sollen wir gehen? Wann sollen wir abreisen? Sind Briefe für mic ? Rommen Sie hier. Beeilen Sie sich. Sagen Sie ihm, er mòge kommen. Geben Sie Acht. Halt. Nicht so schnell. Sprechen Sie mit ihm. Thun Sie, was ich Ihmen Sage. Gehen Sie weg. Lassen Sie den Wagen vor- fahren. Wecken Sie mich um finf l'. Gestern, Heute. Morgen. Alle Tage. Welchen Namen geben Sie diesem Gerichte? Bringen Sie mir etwas Brod, Bringen Sie mir ein Glas Wasser. Wie viel für den Wein è Wie heisst er? Um wie viel Uhr werden wir in X ankommen ? Mi avete capito? E pronto il pranzo? E egli ora di partire ? Dove andremo? Quando partiremo? Ci sono lettere per me? Venite quà. Spicciatevi. Ditegli che venga. Badate. Fermatevi. Non così presto. Parlategli. Fate quel che vi dico. Andate via. Fate venir avanti la car- TOZZa). Svegliatemi alle cinque. Ieri. Oggi. Dimani. Ogni giorno. Come chiamate questa pie- tanza? Portatemi del pane. Recatemi un bicchier d'ac- qua. Quanto costa il vino? Come si chiama ? A che ora arriveremo noi a X ? 478 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, What railway is that ? Is it more expensive P At what hour does the steamboat start P What is the fare P Have you a printed tariff? Is the road easy to find? How far is it to XP What is the usual charge by the day? At what hour does it start? Which is the best hotel at X P Are the charges moderate? Where is the station for X? Is this the train to X? How soon shall we be there P Stop, coachman we wish to get out. When must I be ready? I wish to see the landlord of the hotel. Where is the water-closet? Bring me fresh water. I wish to have breakfast (supper). Quel est ce chemin de fer? Est-ce plus cher P A quelle heure le bateau ä vapeur part-il P Quel est le prix du pas- sage 2 Avez-vous un tarif im- primé P Trouve-t-on facilement le chemin P Combien y a-t-il d'ici à X? Combien donne-t-on ordi- nairement par jour? A quelle heure part-elle P Quel est le meilleur hôtel à X P Ya-t-on bon marché P Où estl’embarcadère de X? Est-ce la le train pour X? Quand arriverons-nous * Arrêtez, cocher! nous vou- lons descendre. . A quelle heure faut-il étre rêt, P Je désire parler au maître de l’hôtel. Ousontles lieux d’aisance? Apportez de l’eau fraîche. Je désirerais déjeúner (sou- per). FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 479 Was ist das für eine Eisen- bahn? Ist es theurer? Um wie viel Uhr fahrt da Dampfschiff ab? Wie viel betragt das Passa- giergeld ? Haben Sie einen gedruck- ten Tarif ? Ist der Weg leicht zu fin- den? Wie weit ist es von hier nach X? Was bezahlt man gewöhn- lich für den Tag ? Um wie viel Uhr fahrt er ab ? Welches ist der beste Gasthof in X ? Ist es billig dort? Woistder Bahnhofnach X? Ist dies der Zug nach X? Wie bald werden wir dort sein ? Halt, Kutscher l Wir wol- len aussteigen. Wann mussich fertigsein? 3: Ich wünsche den Herrn des Hauses zu sehen. Wo ist der Abtritt? Bringen sie frisches Was- Ser. Ich wünsche das Frühstück (das Abendessen). Quale è questa strada fer- rata ? È più caro? A che ora parte il batello a vapore? Quanto costa il trasporto de passeggieri? Avete una lista stampata. E la via facile a trovarsi? Quanto distante è X... da quì ? - Quanto si spende al giorno di solito ? A che ora parte? Qual è il miglior albergo in X ? Sono i prezzi equi colà? Dov'è l'imbarcatoio di X? E quello il traino per X? Ci arriveremo presto? Fermatevi, vetturino, vo- gliamo discendere. A che ora debbo esser pronto ? Vorrei parlare al maestro di casa. Dov' è la ritirata ? Portatemi dell'acquafresca. Vorrei far colazione (ce- nare). 480 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, Give me something to eat. At what hour do we dine? Show me your bill of fare and list of wines. . Bring me the newspaper. Is he ready ? Which is the way to the post-office P How much is the postage? Send that letter to the post. Where does a banker live? I wish to see a medical man. What fee should I give him P Can I have a warm bath P Bring me some soap. Order a hackney-coach for Iſle. Make a good fire. How much have I to pay? Bring me my account. Turn to the right, left, straight forward. How much is charged for admission? What direction must I take P Can I have dinner P Donnez-moi quelque chose a manger. A quelle heure dinons- mous P Montrez-moi la carte. Apportez-moi le journal. Est-il prêt P Pourriez-vous m'indiquer la poste aux lettres? Combien pour le port? Faites jeter cette lettre à la poste. Oū demeure un banquier P Je désire voir un médecin. Combien faut-illuidonner? Pourrais-je avoir un bain chaud P Apportez-moi du Savon. Faites-moi venir une voi- ture de louage. Faites un bon feu. Combien dois-je ? Apportez-moimon compte. Prenez à droite, à gauche, marchez tout droit. Quel est le prix d’entrée P Quelle direction faut-il que je prenne P Pourrais-je y diner? FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 481, Geben Sie mir etwas zu GSS611. Umwieviel Uhr speisenwir zu Mittag ? Zeigen Sie mir den Speise- zettel. Bringen Siemirdie Zeitung. Ist er bereit ? Welches ist der Weg zur Post? Wievielbeträgt das Porto? Senden Sie diesen Brief zur Post. Wo wohnt ein Banquier? Ich wünsche einen Arzt zu sprechen. º, Wie viel Honorar sollich ihm geben ? Rann ich ein warmes Bad bekommen ? Bringen Sie mir Seife. Bestellen Sie mir eine Lohnkutsche. Machen Sie eingutes Feuer. Wie viel habe ich zu be- zahlen. Bringen Sie mir die Rech- mung. Gehen Sie rechts, links, geradeaus. Wie hoch ist der Eintritts- preis? Welche Richtung mussich nehmen ? Kan ich das Mittagsessen haben ? Datemi qualche cosa da mangiare ? A che ora si pranza ? Mostratemi la lista e la nota dei vini. Portatemi la gazzetta. È egli all'ordine? Potreste indicarmi il cam- mino che va alla posta ? Quanto costa il porto? Fate portare questa lettera alla posta. - Dove abita un banchiere ? Desidererei parlare con un medico. Quanto gli debbo dare ? Potrei avere un bagno caldo? » Portatemi un po' di sapone. Ordinatemi una carrozza da nolo, un fiacre. Fate un buon fuoco. Quanto vi debbo? Portatemi il mio conto, Si volga a destra, a sinistra, vada diritto. Quanto costa il biglietto d'ingresso? Qual direzione devo pren- dere ? Potrò avervi il pranzo ? 31 482 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, How much ? .1 ave you no better ? It is fine. It is very hot. Does it rain ? It is cold. Send for a cab. Coachman, drive me to the station. Where is the baggage- room ? » to give metYofirst- class ticketS to X. Here they are. What do they cost ? At what hour is , supper ready. That's very dear. Where are our rooms ? Have anyletters arrived for Mr. N., poste restante ? . Here is mv passport. Is § † p Give me a drink. What o'clock is it ? What kind of weatherisit ? How do you do ? - Very well, I thank you. Have you a room to let ? Combien ? t N'avez-vous rien de meil- leur ? • Il fait beau. Il fait très chaud. Pleut-il ? Il fait froid. # Faites chercher un fiacre. Cocher, conduisez-moi au chemin de fer. Où est le bureau de ba- ages ? Deux billets de première classe pour X, s'il vous plaît. Voilà, monsieur. Combien ces billets ? A quelle heure soupe-t-on ? C'est bien cher. Où sont nos chambres ? Y a-t-il des lettres poste re- stante pour Monsieur N.? Voici mon passeport. - Le déjeûner est-il servi ? Donnez-moi à boire. Quelle heure est-il ? Quel temps fait-il ? Comment vous portez-vous ? Fort bien, je vous remercie. Auriez-vous une chambre à me louer ? FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 483 Wie vi Haben seres ? lEs ist schön. Es ist sehr heiss. Regnet es ? IEs ist kalt. Lassen Sie eine Droschke holen. Kutscher, fahren Sie mich mach der Eisenbahn. Wo ist die Gepäckan- nahme ? Sie nichts Bes- Ioi un assimilate erster Klasse n Hier sind sie. a Wie viel kosten sie? Um wie viel Uhr ist das Abendessen fertig? Das ist sehr theuer. Wo sind unsere Zimmer? Sind Briefe angekommen für Herrn N. ? Hier ist mein Pass. º Ist das Frühstück fertig? Geben Sie mir zu trinken. Wie viel Uhrist es ? Wie ist das Wetter? Wie befinden Sie sich ? Sehrwohl, ich danke Ihnen. Haben Sie ein Zimmer zu vermiethen? º Quanto ? Non ne avete di migliore? Fa bel tempo. Fa caldissimo. Piove ? Fa freddo. Fate cercare un fiacre. Cocchiere, conducetemi alla strada ferrata. Dov'è l'ufficio degli effetti? Due biglietti di prima classe per X, se vi piace. Ecco, signore. Quanto avete pagato per questi biglietti ? A che ora si cena ? È carissimo. Dove sono le nostre ca- mere ? Vi sono lettere per il Sig- nor N. posta restante ? Ecco il mio passaporto. in tavola " colazione ? Datemi da bere. Che ora è ? Che tempo fa? Come sta? Benissimo, la ringrazio. Avrebbe una camera da affittare ? TRAVELLERS’ TELEGRAPHIC CODE. THIS Code is intended as a means of reducing the expense of telegraphing. A single word means a whole sentence. A copy of the Code should be left with the person at home to whom telegrams would naturally be sent (whose name and address should be registered at the local telegraph-office). * . The blank ciphers are for private phrases, to form a personal Code between two persons, who may agree upon certain sen- . tences, and write them carefully in their two books. This been made up expressly for OsgooD's PoCKET * * * * * * Telegraph to —. tº * = c is gº tº e º º Telegraph as soon as possible. * * * * e < * * g 4 & 8 Telegraph your reply. * * * * * * * * * * * * Telegraph and keep us well posted. s & 4, & º º is e º Gº tº it Inform us by telegraph. * * * * * * * * * * * * Telegraph us what to do. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Telegraph if you do not understand our despatch. * * * * * * * 4 tº is º ºs e s Cannot understand your telegram. Please repeat. * * * * * * * * * * * * We cannot understand the word in your tele- gram. Please repeat it. Alack ............ The word you do not understand is —. Alarm ......... Your despatch received. Agog ............ Answer my telegram of —. sº º wº Agony ......... Answer immediately by telegraph. *ºt Aided ............ Answer by telegraph at —. . Vºi: * * * * * * * * * * * * Telegraphed you, but have no reply. Alum ............ Have you received our telegram of — ?. AmaZe ......... Have received your telegram of —. Amber .......... If you wish to communicate with me by telegráph, W*Am pº SO º ise nº . ph # OW ......... ease advise by telegraph. A #y* * * * * * * * * * * Get despatch º j office. 'Amical ......... Before despatch received, we had —. é. idst ......... Have you sent us a despatch to-day? Amity............ If we don’t telegraph you by —, you may con- clude —. TRAVELLERS’ TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 485 Ample ......... If you don’t telegraph us by —, we shall —. Amplify ...... What is reason of delay in reply to our telegram P #: Se ......... Telegraph me care American Exch. in Europe, London. IlalCgy ...... & & &é £ 6 tº g gº N. York. & £ tº £ gº &g * * #:::::::::::::. . . . . . . . . . º. #:::::::::* * * * * * g º º Callor send for telegram at Am. Ex.in Europe, London. ncient ...... £ & & & & & * & & £ N. York. - #3 on & ſº e is º º {& * * {& & & Paris, Paris. | ille W. ............ g & tº º £ tº & £ Europe, -. Angel............ £6 & & letters “ *London. ####1 • a # s e º ſº tº º s gg tº & & & & g “ N.York. Animal ......... & & {{ & £ £ tº Paris, Paris. Animate ...... § { tº º 6 & {{ Europe, –. ; … * * *... ." +, , , * { ſ:- Ankle.......... "w ºtv' ºr a tº . . . . . . . . . * * * * * * * * * * $ ë # ſ . . . f 2. s", ** t … : , ſº - - º Annals ...A.;&# *.*.*.* * * *-* r * * * * * * * * 4. YAnnex * * * * * * * * * Vannul Édº-tº-tº .*.*.*.* lºt..…Cº-º-º- * tº e º 'º & © tº * * * * * * * * * * * * & Cº. # 4 gº tº #: @ e º &Your letter of — is received. k. ............ Your letter is received. v’ 5n............ Send letters here until the -. • a s & e º # 6 º e º e Send letters to — until the – vº ......Send letters care of —. * s # * * * * * * We write you —. * * * * * * * * * * * * We wrote you last mail. ".............. Will write you at once. -- * * * * * * * * *...a...Full information by to-day’s mail. ake ............ Have sent you letter by to-day’s mail. BăIöony ...... Letter was sent. ABald .............. Answer by mail. ~...~ : . . . . : . * #d * * * * * * * * * * No letter to-day; telegraph contents if important. * * , , , , * Balm ......... ... Have received no letters since —. i - was Jºe . . . . . . . . . . . . Forward no letters after —. Bandit ......... We forwarded letters to — on the –. 486 TRAVELLERS’ TELEGRAPHIC CODE. * * * * * * * * * * * Your letter of— received and agreed to. ..Your letter of — received and answered. ..All matter to date has been forwarded. Bazar ............ Have you any mail matter on hand for us? & Beadle ......... Await our letter. a St. . . . . . . . . . . . . We have advices which, in our opinion, may cause your return to —. Where will a letter soonest reach you? Beauty ........We have written you fully on the subject. V. Beckon--..…. What is reason of delay in replying to our letter? JBCCI ............. Write me care American Exchange in Europe, London. Beef............... § { & & & 6 & 4 “ N. Yor Befog. ............ Write me care Ameriean Exchange in Paris, Paris. Beggar ......... & 4 § { {{ rope, –. Betide ......... Until further advice, send all letters care of Ameri- can Exchange in Europe, London. Bestow ......... & & & 4 & & * New York. Betray ......... “ {{ & 6 § { Paris, Paris. Biceps ......... 4 & {{ £6 “ Europe, –. Birch ............ Until this date, send all letters care of American x. Exchange in Europe, London. ; Blast ............ {{ § { & 4 § { ** New York. ſ. Rehead ......... {{ “ & & “ Paris, Paris. ; Behold ......... & 4 $6 “ - “ Europe, –. º § WBelay * * * * * * * * * * * * º VſBench ........ Bishop ........ IBivalve ........ * * # ...? (1- A.޺,0.8.l.o.ºtſ, *:::::::: sº $ ū,8.4.0,\,\,\,\, ..." | TRAVELLERS’ TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 487 Cabin. ......... We shall return at once by —. Caboose ....We shall return at once by the –. Cadet ......... We shall sail for home on the –. * * * * * * * * * * * * We sail —. ake ......... . When does — sail? Calico ......... We think it best to delay departure. Calm ......... We think it best to delay departure until —. If no further advice, shall leave on that day for —. oric ......Cannot leave —. -3 O ...... Cannot leave until —. | alT11D ......... Cannot leave —. Will sail by next steamer. | Canal ........ , Have missed steamer. Canary ...... Have missed steamer; will sail by next. Candy.........When does — leave Caine ......... Steamer sails on —. Cannon ...... Sailing postponed until —. Canopy ...... Tickets lost; send duplicates. ...Arrived all well; pleasant passage. Tell —. ...Arrived all well, but stormy passage. Tell —. * * * * * * * * * Arr, all well; pleasant passage. Shall proceed to —. ſ: a price ...... Arr. all well, but stormy passage. Syall proc. to —. *Capsizé ...... Arrived all well; have written. ś.* * * * * Arrived all well. Address letters to —. VT 19tall] ...... Has — arrived P --- Caramel ...He arrived on —- - Caravan ...He has not arrived. y Carbon ...... Return at once. Y; * * * * 8. I*C. . . . . . . . . . . . . Return as soon as possible. * ... Cardinal ...Beturn at once. Important matters dºmand your pres– ence here. ' irº, # Careworn...Things look blue. Unless strong reasoh to the contrary, should like to have soverten yoff trip. Cargo ......... You need not return. e ...You need not return until —. Catnip ...... You must be here by the –. g Caxton ...... Impossible to return until —. *** Cement...... Arrange for our return, * Central...... Cannot return unless —. .** * ~ * * * Chafe ......... If agreeable, will remain —. ~ : Chair ......... When will you return ? WN: ncel ...When do you expect to be here 2 , º haºs ºr.….We shall be with you by the –. "Chapter ....Secure passage by this steamer. Charcoal ...We shall come by the train leaving at —. hariot ......We shall arrive at this station by train due at —. Charity......Arrange your trip with American Exchange in Europe. Yoharm # * * * * g. * * * * 4.0. * S.M., ºw. CŞ, S. (15. §§ lokºlo. VCherish * * * * * • * & mºw 488 RAVELLERS’ TELEGRAPHIC CODE. Cirmeter...... Cipher ..... * * Circuit. ...... Citadel ...... Clack ......... Coil............ Colic ſº e º 'º is sº tº º tº º Confront, . x < Dabble-...... Sendeable transfer for — through — Y. ×3: … & ......Send me new credit for —, through —. W. T. ... Dàºfºl ....... Remit to me by telegraph througll —. Y " " ' Daffodil ....Remit by mail : — y” Darkey ...... £55 Debility ...# 125 Lashed ....... 60 | Debut........ 150 aub ............ 65 | Decamp...... 175 Daylight...... 70 | I]ecay......... 200 Daytime ...... 75 TXeceit......... 250 Deacon * * * Decide ....... 300 Deadeye...... 85 | Decimal...... 400 Déaf ............ 90 | Declare .......500 Debased ....., 95 Debatable ...100 TXecrease ...Remit at once. V * * * * * * * * * We have remitted. V * * * * * * * Have you forwarded remittance? Defeat. ....... We cannot remit. I)efection...We cannot remit more than —. * * Defence ....We send draft by first mail. , wº, , º, º “ * Lefiance ....Will honor draft. IDeform ..... Will honor draft to amount of —. Lefrayed...Will you honor my draft f IDeftly ........ Will you honor my draft to amount of — . TXelve ......... Please prepay passage per —. Demerit ....Please prepay passage, and telegraph name of steamer. ISqmocrat. Have º your passage per —, sailing on —. … ºft * * TRAVELLERS’ TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 489 ## * * * * * Are without funds; send money to —. v/ * - wººe. IDentistſ...... —. Remit this amount by mail through American lºxchange in Europe, London. Dunce ........ —. “ $6 { % & 4 “. New York. Lamask .....— . . tº 6 & {& “ Paris, Paris. . Lastard .....—. “ & 6 {{ “ Europe, –. Daughter ...—. Remit this amount by telegraph through Amer:- g is can Exchange in Europe, Tondon. Debris .......—. “ “, “if”; “ ”Så.º. Destiny...... ~, 6 & & 4 & & “ Paris, Pâris. Deck .......... —. “ 66 & 4 “ Europe, – Denizen .....—. Remit by first mail this amount i Drafts of American Exchange in Europe. Denote ......Apply º Amer; Ex. in Europe for Letter of CFStift.” Dense......... to renew Letter of Credit. Depose ...... & 6 {{ { % for Circular Notes. Depress ..... { % $6 § { for Circular Drafts, IXerange ....American Exchange in Europe Letter of Credit issued and sent by mail. IJevice ....... $6 66 {{ Circular Notes issued , , and sent by mail. Dilute ........ & 8 6& & 8 Circular Drafts issued e and sent by mail. I)isclose ....—. Have this party guarantee Letter of Credit. Listress .... Eagle ......... In consequence of illness of —, we are detained here. Send letters here until the –. Earth......... - is better, and we hope to leave on the –. East...........— is seriously ill; will advise you again. y’ ii Ciròtilär " • ——w-----. . . . . ſ tº it c iſ t t , ſl. fººt, & W.L., . Guard Jºſ. tº £ • &# ſ W. . Ct. , W Lºſ # *, *: Guide......... Y Nº ABBEv11.1.E, 166. Abbotsford, 94. Aberdeen, 83. Abergele, 31. Abo, 455. Adelsberg, 258. AEtna, Mount, 386. Aghadoe, 8. Agram, 258. Ahrweiler, 225. Ailsa Craig, 59. Airolo, 283. Aix-la-Chapelle, 221, 203 Aix-les-Bains, 440. Alatri, 371. Albacete, 414. Albano, 366. Alessandria, 305. Alfort, 196, Alicante, 414. Alloway, 58. Alpnach, 284. . Althorp Park, 125. Altorf, 282. Amalfi, 383. Ambleside, 45, 44. Amboise, 198. Ambras, 265. American Exchange, xxii, 132. Amiens, 166. Amsteg, 282. Amsterdam, 215. Anagni, 371. Anagno, Lake, 377. Ancona, 328. Andermatt, 283. Andernach, 226. Anglesea, 27. INDEX. Angoulême, 439. Annan, 56 Annesley, 108. Antemnae, 366. Antibes, 399. Antwerp, 211. Aosta, 295. Apennines, 328. Appian Way, 363. Aqua Acetosa, 365. Aquino, 371. Aranjuez, 426. Arbroath, 83. Arcachon, 439. Ardchattan, 74. Ardrishaig, 79. Arenfels, 225. Arezzo, 338. Ariccia, 367. Arles, 401. Arnhem, 217. Arona, 299, 298. Arras, 166. Ashton, 104. Asnières, 165. Assisi, 339. Assmannshausen, 232. Athlone, 22. Auburn, 22. Augsburg, 266. Avernus, Lake, 378, Avignon, 402. Avoca, Vale of, 20. Awe, Loch, 78. Ayr, 58. BACHARAch, 231. Badajos, 434. Baden-Baden, 272. Baggage, xii. aia, 378, -ºns wº Baireuth, 270. Balearic Isles, 409. Ballater, 84. Balmoral, 84. Balquhidder, 73. Bamberg, 270. Banavie, 76. Bangor, 28, 26. Bannockburn, 81. Barbizon, 197. Barcelona, 406. Basle, 274. Bassenthwaite, 53. Bath, 157. Battle Abbey, 155. Bayonne, 433. Baziasch, 256. Bedford, 125. Belcaro, 339. Belfast, 25. Belgium, 201. Belgrade, 256. Bellaggio, 300. Bellinzona, 279. Belvoir Castle, 107. Ben Ledi, 72, 73. Ben Lomond, 70. Ben Venue, 71, 72. Bergamo, 307. Bergen, 448. Berlin, 241. Bernardino Pass, 279. Berne, 287. Bernese Oberland,285. Bernina Pass, 280. Besançon, 404. Beverley, 102. Biarritz, 433. Bienne, 291. Bingen, 232. INDEX, 493 Birmingham, 111, 124. Black Forest,272, 273. Blarney Castle, 4. Blois, 197. Blue Grotto, 382. Bologna, 322. Bonn, 222. §. 230. Bordeaux, 437. Bordighera, 396. Borromean Isles, 299. Boston, 106 Bothwell, 68. Bougival, 194, Boulogne, 161. Bowness, 45. Bozen, 265. Bracciano, 370. Bradford, 103. Braemar, 84. Bray, 20. Bremen, 239. Brenner Pass, 265. Brescia, 307, 305. Brest, 168. Brieg, 296. Brienz, 284. Brighton, 155. Brindisi, 328. Bristol, 158. Britannia Bridge, 27. Broek, 217 Bruck, 258. Bruges, 207. Brünig Pass, 284. Brunswick, 238. Brussels, 204. Bucharest, 257. Bulgaria, 257. Burgos, 432. Burns, Land of, 56. Bute, 79. Buttermere, 52. CADENABBIA, 301. Cadiz, 421. Caen, 167. Caernarvon, 29. Calais, 161. Caledonian Canal, 76. Callander, 73. Camaldoli, 337. Cambridge, 123. Campagna, The, 364. Cannes, 398. Cannstadt, 267. Canossa, 325. Canterbury, 160. Capellen, 229. Capri, 382, Capua, 371. Cardiff, 158. Cardross, 67, 69. Carlisle, 55. Carlsbad, 249. Carlsruhe, 272. Carrara, 392. Caserta, 381. Cashel, 14. Cassel, 238. Cassimo, 371. Castel, 235. Castellamare, 381. Castel Gandolfo, 367. Catania, 385. Caub, 231. Cauterets, 437. Cawdor Castle, 78. Certosa, La, 304, 337. Cesena, 327. Cette, 406. Chalons, 200. Chambord, 198. Chamounix, 293. Chantilly, 195. Charleroi, 202. Charlottenburg, 245. Chartres, 168. Château Thierry, 199. Chatham, 160. Chatillon, 197. Chatsworth, 109. Chaumont, 198. Chaudfontaine, 203. Chenonceaux, 198. Cherbourg, 167. Chester; 32. Chiávenna, 279. Chiemsee, 261. Chillon, 291. Chioggia, 320. & Chiswick, 154. Christiania, 445. Cività Vecchia, 389. Clarens, 291. Cloyne, 5. Coblence, 227. Coburg, 240. Coimbra, 435. Coire, 278. Colchester, 154. Col de Balme, 292, Coleraine, 24. Colico, 301, 279. Cologne, 218. Como, Lake, 300. Compiègne, 196. Comiston Lake, 46. Connemara, 23. Constance, 275. Consuls, xviii. Conway, 29. Copenhagen, 441. Coppet, 290. Cora Linn, 68. Cordova, 415. Cork, 3. Cornice Road, 395. Correggio, 325. Cortona, 338. Coventry, 112. Cracow, 257. Cremona, 310, 305. Cronstadt, 456. Culloden, 78. Cumae, 378. DARMSTADT, 272. Delft, 213. Denmark, 441. Derby, 108. Derbyshire, Peak of, 108 Derwentwater, 52. Dieppe, 161. Dijon, 198. l)inan, 168. Dissentis, 279. Domo d’Ossola, 298. Douai, 201 Dover, 161. Drachenfels, 223. 494 Dresden, 246. Drogheda, 20. Drontheim, 447. Dryburgh Abbey, 94. Dublin, 14 Dumbarton, 66. Dumfries, 56. T]unblane, 81. Dundee, 82. T)unkeld, 82. Dunottar Castle, 83. Durham, 95. Düsseldorf, 218. EASTBOURNE, 155. Eaton Hall, 35. Eaux-Bonnes, 437. Eaux-Chaudes, 437. Ecclefechan, 55. Eddystone Light, 159. Edenhall, 54. Edinburgh, 85. Ehrenbreitstein, 228. Ehrenfels, 232. Eisenach, 239. Elsinore, 444. IElstow, 125. Eltville, 234. Ely, 123. Emmerich, 217, 218. Ems, 228. Engadine, 279. Enghien, 195. England, 32. Erfurt, 240. Ermenonville, 196. Escurial, 429. Esthwaite, 44. Eton, 151. Etretat, 162. Evora, 436. Evreux, 167. Exeter, 159. FAENZA, 327. Faro, 436. Fécamp, 162. Ferentino, 371. Ferney, 289. Ferrara, 321. Fiesole, 337. INDEX. Florence, 329. Flüelen, 282. Folkestone, 160. Foligno, 339. Fontainebleau, 196. Forli, 327. Fort Augustus, 77. Fountains Abbey, 97. France, Northern, 161. France, Southern, 397. Frankfort, 236. Frascati, 368. Freiburg, 273, 288. Fréjus, 399 Frosinone, 371. Frutigen, 287. Fulda, 239. Furca Pass, 283. Furness Abbey, 42. Fürstenberg, 232. GALWAY, 23. Garda, Lake of 301, 308. Gastein, 260. Gemmi Pass, 287. Geneva, 289. Genoa, 393. Genzano, 367. Germany, 218. Gerona, 406. Ghent, 209. Giants’ Causeway, 24. Gibraltar, 420. Giessbach, 285. Girgenti, 389. Giurgevo, 257. Glamis Castle, 83. Glasgow, 60. Glastonbury, 158. Glen Fruin, 67. Gorner Grat, 295. Gotha, 240. Gothenburg, 445. Granada, 417. Granville, 167. Grasmere, 50. Gratz, 258. Greenock, 67, 80. Greenwich, 153. Grimsel Pass, 283. Grindelwald, 285. Grotta Ferrata, 368. HAARLEM, 215. Hague, The, 213. Hal, 201. Halle, 241. Hamburg, 239, 441. Hamilton, 67. Hammerfest, 448. Hammerstein, 226. Hampstead, 153. Hampton Court, 152. Hanover, 238. Harrogate, 98. Harrow, 154. Hastings, 155. Havre, 162. Haworth, 103. Heidelberg, 270. Helensburgh, 67. Helvellyn, 51. Herculaneum, 379. Highgate, 153. Highni, Scottish, Holland, 212. Holyhead, 27. Homburg, 237. Hotels, xx. Hull, 102. Hyères, 399. INNSBRUCK, 264. Interlaken, 285. Inverary, 70. Inverness, 78. Inversnaid, 71, 69. Iona, 76. Ireland, 1, 26. Iron Gates, 257. Irongray, 57. Irun, #3. Ischia, 382. Ischl, 260. Iseo, 301. & Isola Bella, 299. Italy, 297. JEREZ, 422. Johannisberg, 233. Julier Pass, 279. Jungfrau, 286. INDEX. -ms- KANDERSTEG, 287. Kasan Defile, 257. Katrine, Loch, 71. Kelheim, 269. Kenilworth, 114, Keswick, 52, 53. Kew, 152. Kidderminster, 111. Killarney, 6, 10. Kingstown, 21. Komorn, 255. Königsstuhl, 230, 271. Königswinter, 223. Königstein, 248. Kreuznach, 233. LAACH, 226. Laeken, 206. Lahneck, 230. Laibach, 258. Lanark, 68. Lausanne, 288, 199. Leamington, 121. Lecco, 301 Leeds, 102. Leghorn, 389. Leipsic, 240. Leith, 91. Lemberg, 257. Lerida, 411. Lérins, Isles of, 399. Letter of Credit, ix. lº, Baths of, 287, Leyden, 215. iège, 36. Lille, 202. Limerick, 13. Lincoln, 105; Linköping, 444. Linlithgow, 82. inz,335,359. Lisbon, 434. Lisieux, 167. Liverpool, 36, viii. Llandaff, 158. Locarno, 299. Lodore, 52. Lomond, Loch, 69. London, 128. Londonderry, 25. Lorch, 232. Louvain, 207. Lucca, 392. Lucerne, 280. Lugano, 300, 279. Luino, 299. Lund, 444. Lurlei, 231. Luxembourg, 204. Lyons, 403. MAcon, 199. Madrid, 426. Magdeburg, 238. Maggiore, in Majorca, 409. Malaga, 419. Malamocco, 320. Malmaison, 194. Malmö, 444. Manchester, 104. Mannheim, 271. Mantes, 165. Mantua, 310. Marburg, 238. Margate, 154. Marino, 368. Marksburg, 230. Marly, 195. Marseilles, 399, 297. Martigny, 292. Matterhorn, 295. Mauchline, 57. Mayence $34. Msynooth, 22. Meaux, 199. Mechlin, 210. Meiringen, 284. Melrose, 93. Menaggio, 300. Menai Bridge, 28. Mentone, 397. Mer de Glace, 293. Messina, 384. Metz, 233. Meudon, 197. Milan, 302. Minorca, 409. Miramar, 259. Modena, 324, 310. Monaco, 397. ke, 298. Money, xv. Monreale, 388. Mons, 201. Monserrat, 408. Mont Blanc, 293. Monte Cenis, 297. Monte Rosa, 295. Montgomerie, 58. Montmorency, 195. Montpellier, 405. Montrose, 83. Morat, Lake, 291. Moscow, 460. Moselle River, 228. Mouse Tower, 232. Mt. St. Michel, 167. Munich, 261, 310, 249. Murano, 320 Mürren, 286. NAIRN, 78. Namur, 202. Nancy, 200. Naples, 370. Narbonne, 406. Nemi, Lake, 367. Neuchâtel, 291. Neuwied, 226. Newark, 107. Newcastle, 95. Newmarket, 124. Nice, 398. Niederwald. 233. Niederwerth, 227. Nijni-Novgorod, 462. Nimes, 401. Nisida, 377. Nonnenwerth, 224. Northampton, 125. Norway, 445. Nottingham, 107. Novara, 306. Nuremberg, 267. OBAN, 74, 78. Ober-Ammergau, 264. Oberwesel, 231. Ocean Voyage, vii. Odessa, 462. Oporto, 436. Orange, 403. Orleans, 197. 496 Orta, 301. Orvieto, 338. Ostend, 207. Ostia, 370. Otranto, 328. Oxford, 125. PADUA, 311. Paestum, 383. Palermo, 387. Palestrina, 369. Palma, 409. Paris, 168 Parma, 324. Passports, ix. Pau, 436. Pavia, 305. Perpignan, 406. Perth, 82. Perugia, 338. Pesaro, 327. Peschiera, 301, 308. Pesth, 255. Peterborough, 121, 106. Pfalz, 231. Piacenza, 310, 305. Pierrefonds, 196. Pillnitz, 247. Pisa, 390. Pistoja, 328. Plymouth, 159. Poitiers, 440. Pompeii, 379. Pontresina, 280. Port Mahon, 409. Portsmouth, 156. Portugal, 434. Posilippo, 376. Potsdam, 245. Pozzuoli, 377. Prague, 248. Presburg, 255. Procida, 382, 383. QUEENSTown, 2. RAGATz, 277. Railways, xvi. Ramsgate, 154. Rapperschwyl, 277. Ratisbon, 269. Ravello, 383. Ravenna, 325. INDEx. Reggio, 325, 384. Remagen, 225. Renfrew, 66. Rheims, 199. Rheineck, 226. Rheinfels 230. Rheinstein, 232. Rhense, 230. Rhine, 222. Rhone Glacier, 283, Richmond, 152. Righi, The, 281. Rimini, 327. Ripon, 97. Riva, 302. Rochester, 159. Rolandseck, 224, Rome, 340. Roslin, 92. Rothesay, 79. Rotterdam, 212. Roubaix, 202. Rouen, 163. Roveredo, 265, 310. Rovigo, 321. Rowardennan, 69. Rüdesheim, 233. Rueil, 194. Rugby, 121. Russia, 455. Rustchuck, 257. Rydal, 49. Ryde, 157, SAGUNTUM, 412. St. Albans, 154. St. Andrews, 83. St. Bernard Pass 294. St. Cloud, 193. St. Tenis, 195. St. Germain, 194. St. Goar, 230. St. guard Pass, 2 27. f St. Malo, 168. St Maurice, 292. St. Moritz, 280. ^ 80, St. Petersburg, 456. St. Quentin, 201. St. Théodule Pass, 2 Salerno, 383. 95. Salisbury, 156. Salzburg, 259. Salzkammergut, 260. San Marino, 327. San Remo, 395. San Sebastian, 433. Santarem, 434. Saragossa, 410. Savona, 395. Saxon Switzerland, 4. Saxon-les-Bains, 295. Sceaux, 197, Schaffhausen, 275. Scheveningen, 214. Schiedam, 213. Schönbrunn, 254. Scotland, 56. Sebastopol, 462. Sedan, 200 Semmering Pass, 258, 298. Servia, 256. Seville, 422. Sèvres, 194. Sheffield, 105. Sicily, 384. Siena, 339. Simplon Pass, 295, 294. Sion, 295. Solfatara, 377. Solferino, 308. Sorrento, 381. Southampton, 156. Spa, 203. Spain, 405. Spezia, La, 393, 325. Spires, 271. Splügen Pass, 277. Staffa, 75. Stahleck, 231. Staubbach, 286. Steamships, x. Stirling, 80. Stockholm, 449. Stolzenfels, 229. Strasbourg, 272, 200. Stratford-on-Avon, 118. Stuttgart, 266. Subiaco, 369. INDEX. Tº Sweden, 449. Switzerland, 274. Syracuse, 336. TAORMINA, 385. Taranto, 328. Tarascon, 402. Tarragona, 412. Teplitz, 249. Terni, 339. Thrasymene Lake, 338. Throndhjem, 447. Thun, Lake of, 286. Tivoli, 368. Toledo, 430. Torcello, 321. Torquay, 159. Tortosa, 412. Toulon, 399. Toulouse, 439. Tours, 198. Trent, 265, 310. Trèves, 229. Trouville, 162. Trieste, 321, 258. Trossachs, The, 71. Tunbridge Wells, 155. Turin, 305. Tusculum, 368. Tyrol, 264. ULLSWATER, 48. Ulm, 266. Upsala, 454. Urbino, 328. Utrecht, 217. WALENCE, 403. Valencia, 412. Valenciennes, 201. Walladolid, 432. Wallombrosa, 337. Vaucluse, 403. Welletri, 371. Venice, 313, 307. Verona, 308, 307. Versailles, 191. Wesuvius, 379, Vevay, 291. Via Mala, 278. Vicenza, 311. Vichy, 440. Vienna, 250. Vienne, 403. Vincennes, 181. WALEs, 27. Walhalla, The, 269. Wallenstadt, Lake, 277. Wartburg, 339. Warwick, 116. Waterloo, 206. Weimar, 240. Wells, 158. Wiesbaden, 237, 234. Wight, Isle of, 157. Wildbad Gastein, 260. Wilhelmshöhe, 238. Winchester, 156. Windermere, 44, 45. Windsor, 151. Worcester, 112. Worms, 271. Würzburg, 270. York, 98. Yverdon, 291. ZAANDAM, 217. Zermatt, 295. Zurich, 276, 266. University Press, Cambridge: John Wilson & Son. MEMORANDA ****sº , \ tº- \* ~ * , fº # & * t %as f (N & "º 'S' ºs-ºs.º-Sºº & Cº. 4- * * * ** F. Vºf assadºr VS-V. º o X- ſt ſº.wVºlºv tº “… V-- \\ :* § º żº § -e-ek. * # - re- * A **wº N.J.), a S, Cº-ºº-ºº! tº #- s.sºs - Åsº- **º- *- ^^*_Coº { coºk- *: ^^^* &ºte a ~~~ (.84- e. ~~~ º | G--....' ſº ****.*.*.*.*…~, 4. f tax- sº 0. ... º., \ q s ºr, ſº-º-º-º: ; : * Sw d --> ſ. & tºs---, "tº 2 . w Vº *… s G Gº- M E MORAN DA. -Q- MEMORANDA. -Q- ~~~~~~~~~~~~wrº MEMORANDA. *-º- MEMORAN DA. -O- MEMORANDA. --O- M E MORAN DA. -O-e ME MOR A N DA. *Q- MEMORANDA. -Ö- MEMORANDA. —Q- MEMORAN DA. -Ö- M E MOR AND A. r— MEMORANDA – -O- tº : i *THE GRAND UNION HOTEL- Opposite the Grand Central Depot, NEW YORK CITY, offers travellers superior accommodations. Elevator and all 1mprovements. EUROPEAN PLAN. --- * OWER SIX HUNDRED ELEGANTLY FURNISHED ROOMS, fitted up at an expense of One Million Dollars, REDuced To $1.00 AND UPWARDS PER DAY." Richly furnished Suites for Families, and elegantly arranged Rooms for Dinner Parties, for ten and upwards. CUISINE AND WINEs of SUPERIOR MERIt. 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