B 1,384,664
DT
279
R72
.....

ARTEST
LIBRARY
1837
SCIENTIA
VERITAS OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
PLURIBUS UNUM
SQUAERIS PENINSULAM AMOENAM
CIRCUMSPICE
A
WINTER IN ALGERIA
DT
279
-R72

MOORISH TOMBS ON THE BOUZARÉAII.
(From a Water-Colour Drawing by H. Churchill, Esq. C.B.)
Frontispiece.
3.429

A
LIBRARY
OF THE
SITY OF MICHIG
WINTER IN ALGERIA.
1863-4.
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS.
BY
MRS. G. ALBERT ROGERS,
AUTHOR OF "THE FOLDED LAMB," AND THE SHEPHERD KING.
"
LONDON:
SAMPSON LOW, SON, AND MARSTON
LUDGATE HILL.
1865.
PREFACE.
THE preface of a book-the page last written, and, it
is hoped, first read-is expected to say a few words on
behalf of the volume which it undertakes to introduce
to the public. A grateful task this where merit can be
pointed out, and the production of another praised.
Where his own is in question, the author can but give
the reasons which have led to the publication of the
work.
Last winter, when a residence of some months in
Algiers was first contemplated, we naturally sought to
obtain every information respecting a country so com-
paratively unknown to us. On inquiry at the circulating
libraries, the answers received were far from encouraging.
Few English works on Algeria were published, and none
of these were very recent. The viva voce accounts given
us by those who had visited the place, were strangely
contradictory on almost every point. Disappointed in
the result of our inquiries, we nevertheless endorsed the
opinion of a German writer, that "excursions to new
b
vi
PREFACE.
•
regions are useful, to rub off the cryptogamic growths
with which too long a residence in one and the same
country, is apt to encrust the human soul;" and we
looked forward with the greater pleasure to a séjour in
Africa, from its very uncertainty, and novelty.
One parting injunction was repeatedly urged; that a
journal should be kept, and our quota of knowledge
gained on the spot, be added to the general store.
Eccolo.
I have gratefully to express my obligations to those
who have kindly aided me, by giving, or procuring for
me, local information. Especially to M. Bulard, Director
of the Imperial Observatory at Algiers, who has furnished
the observations which are given in the Appendix; and
which have been prepared expressly for this work, at
a great cost of time and labour. They possess a high
scientific value, from the fact (which M. Bulard states),
of this being the first time that any reliable meteorological
documents relative to Algeria, have ever been published.
I have also to thank M. Durando, Botanist and Librarian,
for kindly indicating the names of native plants which
are peculiar to this country. The list of plants I am
thus enabled to give, may be of use to those who visit
Algeria, as showing what additions may here be made to
the Flora with which they are already familiar. To a
stranger in a foreign land, in search of health, and
wayside recreation, this is often a subject of importance.
The photographs from which several of the plates have
been taken, are thus used by permission of MM. Alary
and Geiser, Algiers. The frontispiece has been taken
PREFACE.
vii
from a water-colour drawing kindly lent for the occasion
by the Consul-General. I have not hesitated to avail
myself of Dr. Bodichon's publications on the climate of
Algeria; nor to consult the best French and English
authorities, on historical, and other points.
It is perhaps right to apologize for the retention of
the Diary form. A primá facie objection is obvious:
merely personal recollections, devoid of interest to
others, will largely mingle. Many of these have been
eliminated; and much has been added on subjects con-
cerning which, information would generally be sought.
It was no part of the Author's original intention to
have given any of the Arab legends, which will be found
interspersed in the following pages. The suggestion,
however, that the legends of an unlettered people, such
as the Arabs of Algeria, convey the best index to their
character, habits, and mode of thought, has, upon re-con-
sideration, led to their insertion. Curiously as truth and
error are always interwoven in these Oriental fables,
there is usually veiled some historic clue, to repay the
reader for his trouble.
Another objection may be taken to the want of con-
nexion which necessarily marks the daily entry of passing
events. But if the graces of style do not cluster around
the leaves of a journal, and in ornate composition it may
be found deficient, it yet offers as compensation for these
disadvantages, the fidelity and freshness of first im-
pressions. How much those herein recorded may possess
of either interest, or value, it is not for the writer to
decide.
viii
PREFACE.
The wide-spread insurrection which broke out in
Algeria during our residence there, has drawn unusual
attention to that country. If this volume be found to
contain instruction for the tourist, guidance for the
invalid sceking health in more genial climes, or informa-
tion for the general reader, no further apology need be
offered for the publication of a "Winter in Algeria."
LONDON,
March, 1865.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
GOING OUT.
The Crossing-Paris Fogs-New Greek Church-Emperor and King of Greece
--Information gleaned respecting Algiers-Tomb of Napoleon-Messageries
Impériales Cost of Transit- St. Germain de l'Auxerois-Purgatorial
Association-Mausoleum of Louis XVI.-Journey to Lyons-Bishop of
Gibraltar-Route to Marseilles-Warning against Tricks at Marseilles-
The Mediterranean Minorca and Majorca · Nearing the African
Coast
Page 1
CHAPTER II.
SETTLING IN.
Casting Anchor-Debarcation-The Sirocco-Hotels-The British Consulate
-House-hunting-Outrageous Prices-Place du Gouvernement-Motley
Crowd-Illness-Our New House-First Sunday-Service at the Consulate
-American Consul-Visits-Adventures in Furnishing-Vegetation in the
vicinity of Algiers.
12
CHAPTER III.
FIRST EXPERIENCE OF ALGERIAN LIFE.
Visit to an Arab Court of Justice-Legal Powers now permitted to the Arabs
-Courts of Justice-Their Constitution--Visit to the Mosque of Djama
Kebir-Description-The Mosque Djama Djedid-Troubles in Furnishing
-Jardin Marengo-Its Flowers and Plants-Heavy Rain-Peto's Works
-Arab "Idle Corners"-The Arabs veritable Gibeonites.
CHAPTER IV.
FURTHER EXPERIENCES,
20
Furniture Climax-Description of the Casbah-Its Past History-Deeds of
Cruelty-Insult to the French Consul within its Walls-The French
Conquest The Casbah as the French found it-Wanton Destruction of
the Public Archives-Arab Porters-Opening of the Railway to Blidah-
French Vanity-Crimean Medals in the French Army-Gales in the
Mediterranean-History of the Kabyles-The Arabs-The Moors-The
Mozabites-The Biskris.
31
X
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER V.
SUMMER IN WINTER.
An Englishman's first Adventure-Fort des 24 Fleures-Storms in the
Mediterranean-Fires required-Arrival of the King of Bavaria-A
Midsummer Day-Fruit-Sad Story of English Emigrants-Chasseurs
D'Afrique-Snow on the Djordjora—Acclimatization-Three Rules for
New Comers-English Workmen-Opinion of the Arabs on the Statue to
the Emperor-Acclimatizing Fever-Gabrielle's "Venial Sin "-Sunday
Sports-Point Pescade-Fishery-An Unexpected Meeting
Page 47
CHAPTER VI.
ALGIERS AS IT IS.
Status of Arab Women-French Justice-Story of an Arab Chief-Heat in
the Town-Description of Algiers as it is-Its Streets-Hotel d'Europe-
Its Gates-Present Safety in Algiers-Theatre-Shops-Carriages-Horses
-Omnibuses-Account of a Moorish Wedding
CHAPTER VII.
VARIETIES, ANCIENT AND MODern.
58
Shopping — Negroes Whence they came- Their Emancipation - Their
Idolatrous Sacrifice at Algiers-Their Fêtes-Whitewashing, their Employ-
ment—The Spaniards at St. Eugène-Their Eagerness to receive Books—In-
teresting Meeting with a Patriarchal Hebrew-The Jews in Algeria—Their
Past and Present Condition-Story of a Rabbi-Former Degradation of the
Jews-Arab Horses-Port Dues-Green Peas for Dinner-A Wet Day-
Storms-How Sunday is Observed by many English-String of Camels—
Price of an Embroidered Vest Mr. Churchill's Sketches of Arab
Life
71
CHAPTER VIII.
CHANGES.
Anxiety for Safety of Steamer from Marseilles-Our Femme de Ménage―Her
Age-Amusing Exemption from Fasting-Party at the Consul General's-
Romantic History of a General and his Lady-Drive to the Frais Vallon-
Description of Scenery-Vallée des Consuls-New Church of Notre Dame
d'Afrique-The Bouzaréah-Its Beauties-House-hunting again-El-Biar—
Mustapha Supérieur-High Rents of Furnished Houses-Views from El-Biar
-The Fort de l'Empereur, alias Bou-Lila-Rumours respecting the Missing
Steamer-Heat in the Town-Rains-The Steamer Lost-No English on
Board-The Arabs' Reason for Change in the Climate-Moonlight—
Attraction to El-Biar--The Moslem Cemetery
82
CONTENTS.
xi
CHAPTER IX.
CLIMATE.
Christmas-Day in Algiers-Our Substitute for Holly-The Protestant Con-
sistory and English Service at the Temple-English Congregation Dis-
persed - More Camels-A Rabbi's Mausoleum-French Cemetery-
Le Petit Séminaire-English Library Arrived from England-Visited the
Château D'Hydra-Sudden Change of Atmosphere at Sunset-New Year
Ushered in by Loud Reports of Cannon-The Jour de l'An Fêtes-
Observed by all Classes-Visit to the Mosque Djama Abd-er-Rhaman-et
Tçalbi-Witnessed the Service-Proposed Destruction of the Mosque—A
Fall of Snow-Snow Mistaken for Manna-The Winter Season-Algeria
Compared with India-Nice-Madeira-San Remo-Freedom from Fogs
in Algiers-For what Patients the Climate is suited .
CHAPTER X.
ENLARGING IDEAS.
Page 92
January 6—A Lovely Spring Day-Difficulties in arriving at the Truth-A
Moorish Funeral-The Arab Game of Yadacé-Story of Hassan losing
Two of his Wives by playing at Yadacé with a Third-Purity of the Air
on the Hills-Spanish Workpeople—Ignorance of French Soldiers — Tract
and Scripture Distribution welcomed-Took a Campagne for Four Months
-Its Salubrity-Goats feeding on Aloes-Contrast between a Winter
in England and Algeria-Visited the Jardin d'Essai-Splendid View of
the City-Description of the Garden-Its Size-Use-Plants.
103
CHAPTER XI.
ARAB QUARTERS.
Arab Quarter of Algiers-Description of an Arab House-Contrast to London
Tenements-Advantage of Flat Roofs-The Fragrance of the Fan Palm—
Dress of the Jewesses-The English and Church Service-Grateful Recep-
tion of Religious Publications among French, Spaniards, &c.-Interesting
Case of an Arab and his Sons-Invitation to the Governor-General's-Cost
of Housekeeping in Algiers
CHAPTER XII.
EL-BIAR-OUR NEW HOME.
114
Removal to El-Biar-Mode of Transit-Our New Campagne-The Climate
-Scenery-Its Botany-Visit to a Moorish House-M. Durando, the
Botanist-Contrast between Past and Present in Algiers - Children's
Desire for Books-Rifle Practice on the Lord's Day-Sabbath Desecration
-Good Influence of English Example-An Arab in European Dress-Re-
ception Days-Flowers and Vegetation-Stormy Weather-Señor Rouatt
and Matamoros-Our Curé and Monseigneur the Bishop-A Sisterhood
sent back to France in Disgrace-A Rebellious Nun- Visit to a Café
Maure-An Arab Reader-The Carnival in Algiers-La Fièvre-Saladin-
Price of Arab Horses-Ladies' Saddles
123
xii
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIII.
EFFORTS FOR GOOD.
Views en route to the Bouzaréah-R. A.'s Wanted-Regimental Quarters in
the Interior-Spahis-A Concert for the Protestant Orphelinat-The
French Press in Algiers-Book-burning by the Curé-Visit to a Colonist-
Formation of the English Library-Rules and Regulations-MM. Alary
and Geisers's Atelier A Frenchman's Reminiscences of England in
Page 135
1814
W
•
CHAPTER XIV.
PROTESTANT ORPHANAGE.
Croaking of Frogs-Summer Lightning-Opening of the Library-The Duchess
of Malakoff-Marshal Pelissier's Exploits in 1844-Visit to the Orphan
Institution at Dely Ibrahim-Examination of the Boys and Girls-How the
Institution is supported—The Farm-The Objects of the Institution—The
Village of Dely Ibrahim-A Thick Fog veiling the Metidja-Moslem
Fast-The Ramadan-Its strict Observance by the Arabs-Landscape
Panorama from our House
144
CHAPTER XV.
KABYLE DOGS.
Kabyle Dogs-Annoyances from them-Attack on Riders-Bags of Blight-
Flowers-Want of English Books-Scene at Sunset during the Ramadan-
Ceremonial Observances-Domestic Troubles-A Hurricane-Arabs a Lazy
Race-Their Redeeming Qualities—Our Arab Groom-Comfort of Moorish
Houses-A Whale Ashore-Excursion in the Bay-View of the City-
Close of the Ramadan-Effect upon the Arabs-Our Zouave Groom. 155
CHAPTER XVI.
SUNRISE.
An African Sunrise-Effects seen from our Windows-The Plain of the
Metidja-Visit to a Moorish Cemetery-Arab Mode of Interment-Arab
Dogs-Story of Omar and his Sister-Bronze Baby-Change of Weather
-Fall from a Horse-The Colporteur-A Scorpion-Insect Life. . 166
CHAPTER XVII.
DOUBLE RAINBO W.
Polish Princess-Double Rainbow-Value of the Wild Geranium-Zouave
and the Hamiltonian System-Mr. Ginsburg and a Learned Moor-
Authorization of Colporteur-Fête-Storm-French Government Vessels
-Arab Laziness-Orange Blossoms-The Astronomer Imperial. . 177
CONTENTS.
xiii
CHAPTER XVIII.
LIFE IN EARNEST.
Breakfast in Algiers-Sight-seeing-Bishop's Palace-Governor's Palace-
Madame Luce's Moorish School for Girls-Arab Embroidery-Sketch of
Madame Luce's Life-Difficulties encountered and surmounted in establish-
ing her School-The Kabyle Mountains and Fort Napoleon. Page 189
CHAPTER XIX.
VISIT TO THE INTERIOR.
Train to Blidah--Beni-Mered-The celebrated Orangeries of Blidah—Its
History-Want of Trees in Algeria-Arab Chanting-Gorge de la Chiffa
-Ruisseau des Singes--Stalactite Cavern-Crossing the River-Oleanders
—Col de Mouzaia-Arrival at Medéah--Negro Dance-Animal Magnetism
-Kincsapathy-Description of Medéah-Its past History.
CHAPTER XX.
THE INTERIOR.
201
Ramparts of Medéah-Aqueduct-Storks building their Nests in Chimneys-
Country around Medéah—Vineyards—An English Colonist—Arab Tribal
Tenures of Land-Glen in Returning-Cantonniers-A Miracle-Origin
of the River Chiffa-Camels Browsing-French Encampment-Danger
from Fever Bourkika Road-side Inn - Drive to Millianah French
Prisoners-Iron Springs--Arab Version of their Origin-Bathing Esta-
blishments for the Military-Village Inn-Plains of Algeria-Arab Huts
-Vesoul-Benyan-Millianah.
-
215
CHAPTER XXI.
STILL AMIDST THE ATLAS.
Mohammed-ma-el-hadj-Laghouat-Ancient Millianah-Distance from the
Desert- Account of Millianah-History of Abd-el-Kader-Ruse of the
Moor-Failure of French Colonization in Algeria-Cost of this Colony to
France—Profusion of Flowers-Spanish Horsekeeper's Trick-Return to
Blidah
230
CHAPTER XXII.
BOMBONNEL THE PANTHER-SLAYER.
Sights of Blidah-Skins of Wild Animals-Stories of Bombonnel the Panther-
slayer-His Adventures-Narrow Escape-Fertility of Blidah-Its Arcades
and Buildings-More about the Kabyles-Hills around Blidah-Moorish
Tombs
•
243
xiv
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXIII.
EXCURSIONS TO THE INTERIOR.
A Chapter to be skipped by Fireside Travellers-Blidah the Starting-Point
for the Interior-Sea Routes-Land Routes-Outline of an Excursion to
the Desert-Description of Places to be visited of chief Interest-Ostrich
Hunting-City of Constantine-Public Gardens at Blidah-Conversation
in returning to Algiers
Page 255
CHAPTER XXIV.
THE MUTINY.
Algerine Cuckoo-Tidings of the Emeute-Visit to the Imperial Observatory
Tombs on the Bouzaréah-Ravin de la Femme Sauvage-Ride to the
Kouba-Birkadem-Rain-Gen. Yussef's Adventures-Further Tidings of
the Mutiny-Col. Beauprêre, and the Origin of the Mutiny-Si-Solomon's
Wrongs-Call for Troops for the Interior-Critical State of Affairs-
Garibaldi in England-French Displeasure at his Reception
CHAPTER XXV.
MONASTERY OF LA TRAPPE.
269
Flying Rumours regarding the Mutiny--Freedom of the Press-Arrival of
Troops-Ride to Staouéli-Convent of La Trappe-Description of the
Monastery Hospitable Reception-Conversation with the Monks-Groups
of Palm-Trees-Inscriptions-Visit of a Lady, wife of the Governor-
General, by Permission of the Pope-Telegram from Tunis-Outbreak
there.
CHAPTER XXVI.
EXCURSION TO COLÉ A H.
280
Excursion to Coléah-Spanish Woodcutters and Charcoal-Burners-the River
Mazafran-Jardin des Zouaves-A Gift to General Lamoricière-Picnic in
the Garden-Arab Attendant-Tombeau de la Reine Chrétienne-- An Arab
Legend-Silkworm Factory-A Monkey-Description of Coléah-Story of
Sidi Embarek-Coléah a Second Mecca-Its History-An Arab Boys'
289
School-Remarks
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE ENGLISH IN ALGIERS.
Levées on the Roof of our House-Effect of Climate, and of Flowers on
Invalids-English Society in Algiers-The Consul-General-The Vice-
Consul-An Anglo-French Family-Style of Living-Grand Day at the
Cour Impériale-Installation of the First President-Administration of
Justice in Algeria-No Trial by Jury-Visit to Sidi Boukandoura, and his
Wife-Moorish Ornaments of Gold Coins-Dress of the Princess-Genuine
Otto of Rose-Coffee and Sweetmeats-Some Account of the Turkish
Baths in Algiers.
301
CONTENTS.
XV
CHAPTER XXVIII.
EXCURSIONS.
Excursion to Sidi Ferruch-Another Visit to La Trappe-Picnic at Torre
Chica—Landing-place of the French-Story of Sidi Ferruch's Miracle—
Head of the Frais Vallon--Floral Luxuriance-Absinthe d'Afrique-Rain
in May-The Noon-day Siesta-Arab Trades-Amadou Folding-Cabinet-
makers' Painting and Gilding-Moor Embroidering with Naked Feet-
Another Disastrous Case of English Emigration
CHAPTER XXIX.
LAST
EXCURSIONS.
Page 314
Ride to Cheragas and Guyotville-Visit to a Party of Arabs under a Carob-
tree-Beauties of the Sea-coast-Déjeûner al fresco at Point Pescade-
Green Peas and Covent Garden-Sea Bathing-Fort Pescade and Abdy
the Corsair Natural Breakwater-Ride to the Bouzaréah-The Pirates'
Nest The Kourouglis-Exemption from Algerian Piracy, purchased by
England and other Nations-Geology of the Bouzaréah-Floral Beauties—
Farewells--Attended a Wedding-Further Tidings of the Mutiny—A
Battle-Illness of the Governor-General-Sale of Saladin-An Arab
Sharper-Visits to the Museum-Public Library-Exposition Permanente
-Preparations for departure-Concluding Remarks on French Rule in
Algeria
324
CHAPTER XXX.
ROUTE THROUGH NORTH ITALY AND SWITZERLAND.
Departure from El-Biar-Final Adieux-Storm in the Gulf of Lyons-Mar-
seilles-Toulon-Hyères-Cannes-Nice-The Corniche Road to Genoa-
Milan-Lakes of Como, Lugano, and Maggiore-Borromean Isles-Crossing
the Simplon-Martigny-Visit to the Hôspice of Grand St. Bernard-
Baths of Lavey-Les Ormondes in the Vaudois Highlands-Pass of the
Tête Noir-Chamouni-Lake of Geneva-Castle of Chillon-Fribourg
Organist and Banting-Lake of Thun-Interlacken-The Staubbach-
Mürren-Grindenwald-Lake of Lucerne-Pass of St. Gothard-Devil's
Bridge-Return to Paris-Home
337
APPENDIX.
Notes on the Climate
Meteorological Observations
•
Native Plants peculiar to Algeria
Analysis of Thermal and Mineral Waters
Comparative Altitudes of Sites
349
351
359
•
371
•
372
List of Illustrations.
MOORISH TOMBS (Frontispiece),
CITY OF ALGIERS.
VEILED LADY.
SHOE-BLACK
•
NEGRO MUSICIANS
GOVERNOR-GENERAL'S PALACE
To face Puge
32
107
162
. 210
304
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
1863-4.
CHAPTER I.
GOING OUT.
The Crossing-Paris Fogs-New Greek Church-Emperor and King of Greece
-Information gleaned respecting Algiers-Tomb of Napoleon-Messageries
Impériales Cost of Transit St. Germain de l'Auxerois-Purgatorial
Association-Mausoleum of Louis XVI.-Journey to Lyons-Bishop of
Gibraltar-Route to Marseilles-Warning against Tricks at Marseilles-
The Mediterranean--Minorca and Majorca-Nearing the African Coast.
On the 19th of October we crossed the channel, slept one
night at Dieppe, and proceeded next day to Paris, meeting
with but few incidents of travel by the way. The rough
five hours' crossing was not favourable to literary effort,
albeit the boat was good and swift. The Southerners, so
we learnt from our Captain, had just offered £6,000 over
cost price, hoping to secure her. Custom House annoy-
ances are, it would seem, really consigned to the oblivion
they should long since have enjoyed. We had nothing
overhauled on arriving at Paris, and even at Dieppe,
where one box was unlocked, not an article was displaced.
We found Paris enveloped in one of its cold, white,
October fogs, which, hear it ye Parisians! are fully as pre-
judicial to health and comfort as those of London, which
B
2
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
you talk of cutting with a scythe. Stormy weather is
predicted by the savans, so we are glad to be thus far on
our way, and still more so to find ourselves safe, with a
hearty welcome, under the hospitable roof of our friends,
Mr. and Mrs. Forbes.
Oct. 21st.--There was a special service this morning
at the new Greek Church, which enabled us to see the
building to advantage. The lovers of the beautiful
should include in the sights most worth seeing, the
St. Sophia of Paris. The gilding of the roof was dazzling;
superb yet chaste, and harmonious as the burst of voices
which seemed to come from the exquisite cupola above
us. The subdued light streaming through many coloured
glasses, the clouds of incense, the pictures, the marble,
the splendour of the dresses-for some high day had
assembled a vast array of officiating priests-all com-
bined to make one fancy one's self in a sort of fairy land.
Ladies, with their young Greek attendants in picturesque
costumes behind their chairs, were prostrating themselves
constantly to the very floor, as the low sonorous chanting
rose and fell. Still it was impossible to couple with all
this gaudy display the idea of worship, and it was with a
sense of relief that we left, and proceeded to the Thursday
morning service in the English Church, Rue d'Aguesseau,
where we heard a valuable sermon from Mr. Forbes, the
English chaplain. From thence to the Musée du Louvre.
The pictures were old acquaintances. Admired some of
the new fresco ceilings excessively. When the union of
the Louvre and Tuileries is completed, the whole will
indeed form a stately edifice. En route saw the Emperor
taking the young King of Greece to a Review given in
honour of the latter. The contrast between the bright
looks and upright bearing of the young king, to whom
the weight of sovereignty was as yet unknown, and the
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
3
careworn-looking Emperor, on whose fiat the destiny of
Europe seems to rest, could scarcely fail to strike a
beholder.
66
Mamma, I wish I was an emperor, too, and could
have a great many soldiers," said Louis Napoleon, some
forty-five years ago. Does he ever recall his mother's
words? Placing her hand on her young son's head, Queen
Hortense replied,-
My son, it is no enviable lot to wear a crown. It is
but too often affixed to our brow with thorns."
We had the pleasure of making acquaintance this
evening with Miss L. who had been Miss Crawford's com-
panion in Algeria some three years ago. Her description
of the passage they had from Marseilles is dreadful, and
almost tempts one to turn back. She says the French
Government, in their desire to colonize Algeria, offered a
free passage to all emigrants, who on that occasion were
certainly of the lowest and dirtiest class. Miss L. is a
sort of rival of Miss Pardoe, and a most enterprising
traveller; often when in the interior putting up in a
rough stable for the night, with only her saddle for a
pillow. It was, therefore, doubly alarming to hear her
say that nothing would tempt her to undergo such a
passage again. The first-class deck was literally covered
with swarms of these dirty creatures and their children,
rolling about in every revolting form; and the sights
which met her gaze, and the sounds which assaulted her
ears, were so unendurable, that, though an excellent sailor,
she retreated, after the first afternoon's experience, to her
cabin, and never left it again. To complete the picture,
a terrible storm came on, the hatches were battened down,
and the passage occupied sixty hours. This is undeniably
a most comfortless prospect, and my courage sinks.
Thursday, Oct. 22d. Visited the Invalides.
One
B 2
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
would never tire of seeing the Emperor's tomb. The
simple blue glass in the windows of the crypt, the plain
golden glass in those of the chancel, have a most scenic
effect, throwing a sombre light on the tomb, and a glorious
hue over the high altar. Poor Louis-Philippe! How he
miscalculated when he touched those dangerous ashes,
from which, phoenix-like, the present stern ruler of France
has sprung. Had a visit from the author of the pamphlet,
"Notre St. Père le Pape," and a long account of the
trouble its notoriety had occasioned. The Times, think-
ing it one of the brochures put forth from time to time
under the inspiration of the Emperor, had announced it
as such, and the Minister of Public Instruction had sum-
moned the author, threatening prosecution. Happily,
after some time, this intention was abandoned, but it
caused months of anxiety.
Mr. Forbes brought home the intelligence that all
the berths to Algiers were engaged for weeks to come,
leaving no hope of a passage. Altogether, matters do
not look very propitious as regards our transit to Africa.
Oct. 23d.—We had always intended to wait till we
reached Marseilles before taking our passage; but this
morning, the bright idea of some friendly adviser led us
to visit the Bureau des Messageries Impériales, as the
best way of obtaining precise information. To our great
joy we found the state of things existing three years ago
had undergone a complete reformation. No longer are
emigrants provided with a free passage; or if excep-
tional cases occur, they are not permitted to invade the
first-class decks. The officials assured us that the best
boats in the service now ply between Marseilles and
Algiers. They showed us the plan of the one which
crosses to-morrow, and said if we would call the next
day, we might select our places for the following Tues-
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
5
day, by the plan they would then have received. This,
however, we left to them to choose, and they promised
at once to telegraph for the best cabin to be kept for us.
Thus the fears of the last two days were dispelled, and
we felt we had no slight grounds for thankfulness.
First-class tickets from Paris to Algiers, are 191fr. 75c.
We also ascertained the cost of transit to other parts
of Algeria, though with no intention of availing ourselves
of these lines. From Paris to Marseilles, 96fr. 75c.;
Marseilles to Oran, 143fr.-Total, 239fr. 75c. Paris to
Stora, the port for Constantine, 214fr. 75c. Second-class
fares on the three routes respectively are: to Algiers,
143fr. 40c.; to Oran, 185fr. 40c.; and to Stora, 165fr.
40c. In all these charges food is comprised. It is not
so in the case of third-class passengers.
Thence to the Church of St. Germain de l'Auxerois.
On the pillars inside we found a printed notice of a
remarkable charity connected with that special church
and parish, for extricating the souls of the faithful from
purgatory after death, and for supplying extreme unction
to the devout poor gratuitously at the last hour. To
encourage contributions from the rich, special exemptions
and indulgences were decreed for them, and this in the
vaunted nineteenth century!
With some difficulty we found our way to the now
unfrequented spot where the mutilated remains of
Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette were deposited after
the Bourbon restoration, together with those of the Swiss
guards who fell in the path of honour. The gates were
unlocked by a portress, who told us the entrance was
à volonté, which of course in free translation, meant a
franc. There is a severe simplicity about this mauso-
leum, and the monuments to the late sovereigns and the
Princess Elizabeth are very touching.
6
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
Oct. 24th.-Bade adieu to our kind friends, and left
Paris enveloped again in its cold, chilling, white mantle.
Reached Lyons per express in eleven hours, and took up
our quarters at the Hôtel de Lyon. By the time we
had arrived at Melun the fog had dissipated, or we had
railed away from it, which enabled us to discern very
pretty scenery, both by the river side, and higher up.
The Forest of Fontainebleau looked rich in its autumnal
garb, though our line does not pass through the finest
part. The buffet at Dijon is justly considered a very
good one. At all such places, however, digestion is out
of the question, from the brief space of time allowed for
the exercise of one's gastronomic powers.
By the time we reached Blaissy-Bas, the full moon
had risen, shedding a soft lustre over vineyards displayed
in squares, in terraces, and trailing over craggy hills
which terminated in scarp rocks, often crowned with
seeming ruins grey. It was altogether very pretty; but
we are now tired, and more fit for rest than for record-
ing the impressions of the journey.
Sunday, 25th.-G. very unwell. I had to go to church
alone, where I heard the Bishop of Gibraltar preach. In
the course of his sermon, the Bishop took occasion to
animadvert in somewhat forcible terms on the conduct
of the travelling English. He said they were renowned
for the liberality of their expenditure, that they grudged
no amount of money if anything was to be seen, or any
pleasure to be purchased; but that he was sorry to say
too many did grudge contributing in any proportionate
degree to the support of Divine Worship in their own
tongue. His lordship added, that they should be only
too grateful to find the services of their own Church
provided for them in a foreign land, &c. &c. All this
produced, I think, its due effect, as the collection in the
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
7
plate looked decidedly penitential. I fear it is a fact
only too well attested, that kreutzers and centimes have
been known to issue on these occasions from the pockets
of well-dressed people.
In the afternoon G. had a long conversation with the
Bishop, and found him very cordial and agreeable. His
predecessor in the See of Gibraltar was sent out in a
British man-of-war, and had a house provided for him.
Retrenchment is, however, the order of the day, and
both these items now come from the prelate's privy
purse. The appointment is far from valuable in a
pecuniary point of view, and requires private means.
The Bishop intends fixing his residence at Malta. Being
Sunday, we have seen little or nothing of the town.
The plants in the Place Imperiale gave one an impres-
sion of being in a more southern latitude,
Monday, 26th.-Up early, and off by the grande
vitesse. En route to the station fell in with some
pleasant English, and contrived to keep a carriage to
ourselves all the way to Marseilles. The whole journey
was performed by daylight, and was one continued scene
of beauty. Our route lay alongside the Rhone. We
frequently crossed and re-crossed the river, which from
St. Vallier becomes studded with islands. After passing
this town, which stands on a terrace high enough to
escape the periodical overflowings of the mighty stream,
picturesque ruins and chains of hills attracted our notice.
The beautiful outline of Mont Pilate was seen in the
distance; soon after the Alps of Dauphiné; and ere long
all eyes were eager to descry Mont Blanc, but this I
fancy requires a very peculiar state of the atmosphere
and very powerful glasses. We, at least, failed to discern
the monarch of mountains.
From La Concorde to Montelimar, the Rhone presented
8
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
exquisite pictures. Every here and there white sand-
banks and pebble ridges were peering above the stream,
the little wavelets of which were dancing and gleaming
in the sunlight. A suspension bridge spanned the Rhone
here, probably on the site of the one which was swept
away by a flood in 1840. Patches of bright verdure
girdled the limestone hills in broad belts. Above them,
on picturesque crags, were reared castles on seemingly
inaccessible summits, while Nature imitated so closely
these works of art as almost to defy detection from the
windows of a railway carriage. Pierrelatte, the colossal
mass of rock rising erect from the plain-magnificent
Mont Venteaux-the frowning Alps, towering as they
did in the background, far above other and nearer
mountain ridges-the widening Rhone, embracing the
beautiful little islands which now rose rapidly upon its
bosom-each and all combined to make the scenery
lovelier than we had ever anticipated.
At one o'clock we had our first glimpse of Avignon,
the city of the Popes. The beauty of the day added to
the charm of the view, which was altogether lovely as
imagination could have pictured it; and in the distance
we fancied Avignon bright as when the residence of
Petracha and his Laura. The dazzling brilliancy of the
white buildings surmounted with gilding-one especially,
with a golden figure, which we concluded had once been
the Pope's palace-the dark green background of the
cypress-trees, with an intensely blue sky relieved by
light fleecy clouds overhead, formed an exquisite picture,
and seemed to render Avignon a fitting cradle for
Horace Vernet's talent. Looking back after quitting
this city, when our course was steering amid the olive-
trees, the Rhone still flowing on our right, we saw snow
on a distant chain of mountains, and far away to our
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
9
left rose another line of hills, resplendent in hues of
purple and green, competing for the palm of beauty.
Perhaps it is partly owing to our expectations not having
been too highly raised; but certain it is our journey this
day has left pleasurable reminiscences far beyond what
we had anticipated.
At Miramas we first caught sight of the Gulf of Lyons.
The lofty Pyrenees were seen in the distance, and as we
dashed on through ridges and tunnels, beauteous peeps
of the Mediterranean gladdened our eyes, till we came
down at last upon this wonderful city of Marseilles, and
exchanging the railroad for the wide spacious streets,
found ourselves at the Hôtel du Louvre et de la Paix.
Chartering a guide, we soon sallied forth to see a little of
the town, which some consider the finest in France. To
judge by the buildings, and improvements everywhere
pointed out to us as in progress, I should say it at least
bids fair to become such. We have, however, all the fore-
noon of to-morrow for further explorations, and I think
I have done my duty as a journalist this day.
Oct. 27th. At two o'clock this afternoon, we left Mar-
seilles per Hermus steamer. A trick, which it is well
to record as a warning to future passengers, might have
lost us our passage, had we not started long before the
appointed time. We engaged a carriage to take us to
the steamer, whither our baggage had been sent previously
from the Messagerie office, and, perhaps unwisely, paid
for it in the hotel bill. We drove past so long a forest of
masts-a familiar sight to English eyes-that we were
quite prepared to alight when the coachman drew up on
the quay, and threw open the door; but unprepared to
see no vessel alongside, and to hear him hail a boat for
us, with one or two passengers already in it. However,
without waiting to answer our inquiries he was off, and
10
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
(C
we seated ourselves in the little boat. Some five minutes
or more brought us amidst a crowd of steamers, when G.
suddenly asked, "Are you taking us to the boat for
Algiers ?" Algiers! Is not Monsieur going to Italy?"
With some trouble we hired a second boat, and on finally
reaching the steamer, discovered the cheat which had
been played by the driver to save himself two sides of
the long quay. We should have driven to the spot, and
walked on board!
The sur-
If the entrance to Marseilles yesterday surpassed in
beauty all that we had previously seen, the scenery to-day
on quitting the harbour charmed us yet more.
rounding heights, the fortifications by land and by sea,
the extent of the town, its churches and other edifices,
give an air of magnificence and grandeur to the scene
which we had little expected. We had ample time to
examine the harbour, which, not less beautiful than exten-
sive, bears the impress alike of nature and of art. Too
soon, however, for comfort we were out of its smooth
waters, and rolling and tossing in the Gulf of Lyons,
where an uneasy spirit seems to reign over the waves.
was one of the few who attempted to do justice to the
dinner, which was admirably served, but I have an un-
comfortable suspicion that on this score I had better not
boast too soon.
I
Thanks, however, to my being a tolerable sailor, I spent
the afternoon on deck alone, that is, without G.'s society,
and watched my fellow-passengers go down, one by one,
to the lower regions. One military gentleman, as dis-
agreeable in manner as in personal appearance, and who
seemed avoided as much as possible by his brother-officers,
had at length to bow to stern necessity, and to beat a
retreat, to the great satisfaction of the few whom he left
in peace.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
11
Wednesday, Oct. 28th. This morning we passed
between the Isles of Minorca and Majorca, though it was
difficult either to adjust the glass to one's eyes, or to
maintain a frame of mind capable of admiring the build-
ings on shore which were pointed out to us.
:
We have had a glorious passage. This I say on the
captain's authority pitching and tossing like a child in
a swing, bringing misery untold to most of the passengers,
would, I am afraid, more accurately describe my idea of
what we have undergone. These vessels, so we are told,
do not carry sufficient ballast; and whenever this is the
case, steamers and human beings are much alike.
This evening we are sensibly in a more southern lati-
tude. A purple sea crested with white foam has borne us
up throughout our voyage, but now the sun is sinking in
the west, amidst hues of violet, and bars of gold and red;
and troops of porpoises, surrounding our vessel, seem
anxious to stop in their gambols to tell us we are nearing
the African coast. The captain assures us that we shall
be in harbour at five o'clock to-morrow morning, and if
so, an unusually rapid passage will have landed us on
the shores of Algeria.
12
A WINTER IN ALGERIA,
CHAPTER II.
SETTLING IN.
Casting Anchor-Debarcation-The Sirocco-Hotels-The British Consulate
-House-hunting-Outrageous Prices-Place du Gouvernement-Motley
Crowd-Illness-Our New House-First Sunday-Service at the Consulate
-American Consul-Visits-Adventures in Furnishing-Vegetation in the
vicinity of Algiers.
Hôtel de la Régence, Algiers, Oct. 29th.-At half-past
five this morning the vessel cast anchor, after a rough
but prosperous voyage of only thirty-nine hours. How
welcome the sight of land! What a bustle overhead,
announcing the hasty departure of some of our fellow-
passengers, almost before we were well aware that we
were inside the port! The sun had not yet risen,
when we went on deck, and gazed on the new
strange scene. How unlike anything European! The
lower and new part of the town is French; but at first
sight one overlooks this, and, glancing upwards, sees
only the Moorish capital. Built as it is on an eastward
slope, or rather steep declivity of the Sahel, it catches the
eye with its white, square-built, terraced houses-pigeon-
holes doing duty for windows-and giving an air of
desertion to the place, which a nearer inspection quickly
dissipates. At half-past six, as soon as the sun had risen
in splendour behind the range of hills that encircle the
bay, casting a flood of glory over the picture, we put
ourselves into one of the many boats that were rowing
around the steamer, inviting passengers to enter, and
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
13
went ashore.
The cool breeze in the harbour was deli-
cious, but no sooner had we landed than we came in most
unpleasant contact with the hot wind from the Desert.
The sirocco was actually blowing at this the end of
October, and, combined with the fatigues of the voyage,
made one feel as we ascended the narrow, dirty steps,
leading from the harbour to the Place du Gouvernement,
that we were verging upon a tropical clime. This entrance
to the town is by no means inviting, and we are not sorry
to hear that a new ascent from the landing-place will
shortly be opened on a widely different scale.
We were glad to take refuge from the heat, which even
at that early hour was "really oppressive, in the hotel to
which we had been recommended by Miss L. We have
already, however, found cause to repent our choice. The
Algiers of 1860 is not the Algiers of to-day; this hotel
is both noisy and dirty, and the proprietors not remark-
able for the suaviter in modo so essential to the comfort
of their guests. Above all, situated as it is in the Place
de Gouvernement, it is too low for those who require
bracing and tonic. The Hôtel de l'Europe is decidedly,
by all accounts, and in virtue of its situation, the best
adapted for English visitors, at the present date. A
magnificent hotel is in course of construction on the new
Boulevards, the great influx of English last winter having
encouraged hopes that such an addition to the town
would be desirable, if not needful.*
* Neither here nor elsewhere have I mentioned hotel prices in Algiers, the
reason being that railroad and steam have now pretty nearly equalized all
such items within four days' journey of Paris. 3 to 3 francs for the mid-
day breakfast; 3 to 4 fr. for dinner, including vin ordinaire; apartments
au choix from 2 to 10 fr. are the usual charges, here as elsewhere, at the good
hotels. Arrangements may be made for being received en pension at from
5 to 10 fr. per diem, according to the hotel and rooms selected.
The new
Hotel d'Orient is said to be as good as the Grand Hotel at Paris, with about
the same scale of charges.
14
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
After breakfast G. started out to call on the Consul,
whom he found most kind and attentive; and ere long,
Mr. Elmore, who has been established here as Vice-
Consul for some years, came to call at our hotel. He
seems well acquainted with the interior of the country.
G. accompanied him on a visit to the President of the
French Protestant Consistory, to ask for the loan of their
Temple for the English service this winter. It is a pity
the English have no church of their own here. The
Commissionaire to the British Consulate was sent by the
Consul in the afternoon to aid us in house-hunting. To
Mustapha Supérieur, a high and beautiful environ of
Algiers, we accordingly drove; but except the general
idea we have thus formed of the place and neighbour-
hood, our afternoon's work has been so far in vain. The
prices put upon the houses and apartments, in expecta-
tion of the arrival of English "milords," are something
fabulous, and enough to deter the said English from
coming at all. For good country houses suitable for
families, but furnished in a style which would prove
most detrimental to letting in England, they ask the
most outrageous prices,-1,000, 1,400, and even 1,800
francs a month; the arrangement of the rooms, the
state of the walls, and the general want of comfort, being
usually such as would make the latter sum adequate for
an annual rental. We looked at furnished apartments.
Some, in which there was not the space proverbially
required for the rotatory evolutions of a cat, were valued
at 300 and 350 francs per mensem. However, we had
not, of course, expected to establish ourselves on the day
of our arrival.
On our way home I saw a cloud, portending, as I
thought, rain, but Zamit, our Maltese commissionaire,
laughingly assured us that there were no hopes of that,
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
15
and that rain had not fallen for eight or nine months.
It would have been refreshing, for the sirocco, slightly
as it was blowing, had dried up one's skin, and made us
feel very parched and feverish. At the table d'hôte
dinner, a rustling breeze was heard, and the waiters flew
in all directions to shut up the windows. I asked if a
storm was really apprehended, when the unwonted reply
was given, "Non, Madame, c'est le vent du Desert."
This is naturally dreaded, as it fills the house with sand
and fine dust. However their fears were groundless this
time, as it proved to be a slight shower, which has some-
what refreshed the air.
Friday, Oct. 30th.-Awoke by noises and sounds of
every description, admirably calculated to banish sleep,
which after our late fatigues one feels specially to require
just now; but the unmusical and incessant rattle of
martial drums, the passage to and fro of military
waggons and other vehicles, the perpetual transit of
bipeds and quadrupeds, either civil or military (the
latter greatly predominating), seem to call one to be up
and doing as soon as the sun rises.
It was indeed no less pleasant than strange at that
cool morning hour, to take one's station at the window
and look out. Beneath was animated Nature: Moorish
ladies closely veiled, going to, or returning from, the
adjacent mosques, followed by an attendant negress,
shrouded in her takhelida, or blue check; femmes de
ménage innumerable, laden with their morning's market-
ing, or attended by an Arab bearing the burden; French
gentlemen enjoying an early morning stroll; soldiers off
duty, sauntering about; swarthy visages and piercing
eyes; rich dresses and graceful garments; the handsome
sons of Abraham, whose origin none can dispute; the
Moors of the town, in their flowing burnouse, and the
16
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
ragged Bedouin of the Desert, driving a little file of
heavily-laden asses, were all to be seen upon, or around,
the Place du Gouvernement. In the centre of the Place
is Marochetti's beautiful equestrian statue of the lamented
Duke of Orleans. By the way, we have since been
assured that, under the Provisional Government, a
proposition for its removal was seriously entertained.
We look down on a fountain ever playing, and doing
its best to refresh the sultry air. Surrounding it are
some eighteen young orange-trees, not in boxes, as in
England we are wont to see them, but luxuriating in a
congenial soil and clime. A lofty date-palm rears its
head proudly above them, and some dignified turbaned
Turks are enjoying their chibouques on the seat placed
beneath it. But dust covers its leaves, and those of the
orange-trees, and does not even respect the new comers,
for everything in our rooms is white, and it becomes a
question whether or not to admit the outer air. The
muezzim's call to early prayer might have aroused us, for
we face the minaret of the Mosque of Djama-Djedid, but
the din and noise all around would preclude our hearing
it. If the Faithful ever catch the sound, it must rather
be by instinct than by their auricular organs.
Either the oppressive heat, or the effect of the voyage,
has so prostrated me that I am unequal to further exer-
tion, and am feeling thoroughly unwell. G. dreads my
becoming ill at an hotel in the hot town, and has spent
all the day in house-hunting in all directions. In the
afternoon he returned, saying he had seen a house which
we could have at once near the town, and looking out
upon the Jardin Marengo. The only drawback is that
it is unfurnished, a difficulty which looks rather formid-
able. We are, however, assured it is easily to be
overcome. A marchand de meubles will put in every
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
17
requisite at an hour's notice, which we can hire by
the month. We have accordingly agreed to take the
premises from to-morrow. The proprietors occupy the
rez de chaussée, but all the upper part of the house,
with a separate staircase and entrance, is ours. We have
taken it for three months.
66
Oct. 31st.-Saw, and engaged a French servant. Do-
mesties do not, by what we hear, stand high as a class in
Algiers. The hire of our furniture seems likely to be
a less easy affair than was represented. The man has
had twenty-four hours' notice, yet we have come into
bare rooms, and on looking up the delinquent, all our
commissionnaire could get, consisted of beds, a table, and
chairs. While ready to admit, in theory, that man
wants but little here below," we hardly expected to be
thus suddenly called upon to prove its truth. However,
here we are, quiet and alone; a comfort which can only
be duly appreciated after travelling, and living at hotels,
and feeling ill. The batterie de cuisine, crockery, &c.,
had, of course, to be bought, and our femme de ménage
seems in her element, so we must contrive to get on till
Monday. The marchand offered to bring up all the
rest of the furniture to-morrow morning (Sunday), and
thought our refusal to receive it most enigmatical.
The heat is everywhere intense. Last night the fierce
attacks of the mosquitoes showed their taste for English
blood. I believe new comers always suffer. The change
to this higher locality has already done me good.
Nov. 1st, Sunday. Our first Lord's Day in this
strange land. Service was held this morning at the
British Consulate; Mr. Churchill having kindly opened
his suite of rooms for the purpose. About twenty only
were present. In going and returning, it was sad to sce
business transacted as on other days; the markets and
(
18
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
the shops rather fuller and gayer than on other days.
Would that we could devise some plan for reaching the
hearts of this people!
Nov. 2d.-We English present strange compounds.
Proud of our liberty, we are always ready to become
slaves to any arbitrary custom, or unmeaning fashion.
Here it is the etiquette for new comers to call on all the
residents. One may be ill, or ignorant of the existence
of some, perhaps, charming people; still one must find
them out, and must call ere any attention can be ex-
pected from them. On first arriving in so strange a
place, it would be far more gratifying to receive visits,
and offers of kindly assistance, than to be bound to find
out who's who, before feeling either settled or acclima-
tized. I see Russell complains of the same state of
things at Simla, and I believe it is not unfrequent on
the Continent; still, I confess to preferring manners and
customs more purely à l'Anglais.
G. called on the American Consul, and found him
an agreeable and well-informed young man. Indeed, his
sole work here is to glean information and transmit it to
his Government. There is not one single American resi-
dent in the place, nor as yet a visitor from across the
Atlantic. He did not seem to think that much love was
lost between the Arabs and their present masters. The
French are not felicitous in their endeavours to win the
affections of their nomadic subjects. Occasionally a whole
tribe is brought into Algiers, fêted and taken to the
theatre, the ne plus ultra of French delights, but the
stolid Arabs are unable duly to appreciate these advan-
tages. Certain it is that the French, with all their
diversified talents, do not seem gifted in forming a pros-
perous and happy colony. We shall learn more on this
subject by degrees. The first thing which strikes one is,
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
19
that there is here simply a grand military establishment.
Almost every other Frenchman one meets is in uniform.
The officers have beautiful horses provided for them
and in every respect take precedence of their civilian
countrymen.
The vegetation here has charms inexpressible for an
unaccustomed eye. Boundaries, which take the place of
our hedge-rows, are formed of aloes, so exactly resembling
large pine-apple plants, that I was at first sight deceived.
These are spread in all directions. Every here and there
a tall, straight stem has sprung up, borne flowers, of
which, alas scarce any now remain, and then, fading
away, has rung the knell of its parent's decease. As soon
as the aloe has borne, its life pays the penalty of the
effort, but around each plant from twenty to thirty young
ones are springing up to claim its name and place,
Caxti, whose fruit is the Barbary or Arab fig, which is
said to be extremely nutritious, also abound, and are like-
wise much used as hedges. The cotton-plant, the da-
tura, the hybiscus, the lilac des Indes, oleanders, African
mimosas, orange and lemon trees, and other more familiar
shrubs, are in full flower; together with smaller aspirants
in the shape of roses, bigonias, cyclamen, fuschias, &c.
Scarlet geraniums grow wild, and emulate creepers in
twining amidst the caxtus and the olive. Still the vege-
tation is not such as one reads of in tropical regions, and
the absence of woods and forests is a marked, and to me
an unexpected, feature in this part of the province. The
exuberant growth of such trees and shrubs as are to be
found shows what might be done if the French turned
their attention to thus cultivating the soil. Of course
the question of irrigation must be taken into account.
Just now water is sadly needed, not a drop of rain having
fallen since the beginning of last May.
C 2
20
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
CHAPTER III.
FIRST EXPERIENCE OF ALGERIAN LIFE.
Visit to an Arab Court of Justice-Legal Powers now permitted to the Arabs
-Courts of Justice-Their Constitution--Visit to the Mosque of Djama
Kebir-Description-The Mosque Djama Djedid-Troubles in Furnishing
-Jardin Marengo--Its Flowers and Plants-Heavy Rain-Peto's Works
---Arab "Idle Corners "-The Arabs veritable Gibeonites.
Nov. 3d.-Zamit conducted G. this morning to the
principal mosque in the place, in the Rue de la Marine,
and introduced him to the mufti, or chief priest. This
most dignified looking personage received him with the
greatest politeness, and expressed much pleasure at making
his acquaintance. He had the sagacity to say that he
well understood the difference between Protestantism
and Popery, and could sympathize with the former, but
that he abhorred idolatry under whatsoever name. The
conversation had to be carried on through an interpreter,
so it was not easy for G. to say all he desired to this
kind-hearted, but deluded, follower of the false prophet.
G. expressed a wish to bring me to see the mosque, to
which the mufti gave his assent, and said he hoped to
meet him again.
In the afternoon I accordingly visited the mosque,
having first obtained entrance at an Arab Court of
Justice close by, where Zamit told us of a cause going
on. Civil cases only are allowed to be tried in their
own Court. It was a low building, dimly lit, and
crammed with turbaned Moors, and burnoused Arabs.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
21
One of the former, who sat at right angles with the
presiding cadi, rose and made a most excitable speech, as
though he held a brief on the occasion. The particulars
of the case we could not exactly understand.
A friend in the Cour Impériale has kindly furnished
us with information in reference to the extent of legal
administration which the Arabs are still permitted to
exercise, and as to the constitution of their Courts of
Justice.
The Arabs, not enjoying the privileges of French
citizens, cannot fill any employment in the French
administration; but their own manners, customs, and
religion are protected by the Government. The minis-
trations of justice amongst them are, and always have
been, simple enough. The Bureaux Arabes are spread
all over the country, and are responsible to the Bureau
Politique, at Algiers, which centralizes them. At the
head of each bureau is a French officer, together with his
one or more assistants, including an interpreter. The
kodja, or secretary, attached to every bureau is usually a
native. Other natives are also associated with them-
chaouchs, &c. &c. In the territories still under military
rule the presiding officers are military; in the civil or
more tranquil parts civilians administer justice. At the
head of each tribe is a caïd; at the head of each douar
or village a sheik, or one whose age commands local
respect. These native chiefs are more properly agents
than functionaries under the Government. Their in-
fluence is nevertheless very great. In certain cases they
can inflict fines and impose other penalties. As the
sheiks are under the cadi, so the caïds are in their turn
under an agha, who presides over a large district; never-
theless this imposing array is in reality vested with little
beyond honorary powers.
22
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
Their own Courts of Justice are constituted as follows.
The caïd, or cadi, who is the one only judge, is armed
with full power of pronouncing judgment in all civil cases.
The Arabs are a most litigious people, and our friend
says it is impossible to form an idea of the tenacity with
which they spin out a lawsuit, or of the means they
employ for defeating an adversary. They shrink from
neither fraud nor falsehood. The cadi sits daily, or
whenever it pleases him. His tribunal is composed of a
bach-adel, to whom he may occasionally delegate his
own powers; of adels, or assessors, who have a voice in
the deliberations which ensue, and act as secretaries; an
aoun, or usher, and chaouchs.
Their only law is that of the Koran; but its precepts
unfortunately are not always very clear, and this has
given occasion for endless commentaries. Each cadi is
at liberty to choose his favourite law-book, which results
in every judge having his own peculiar jurisprudence.
The mode of proceeding is very simple. For example,
a native will come and complain that another owes him
100 francs; the aoun is immediately despatched to fetch
the delinquent, and both parties state their side of the
case. It was just such a case we watched, and it would
be difficult to convey an idea of the energy and ani-
mation with which the contending parties expressed
themselves. The cadi finally gives judgment, and without
further ado the sum due is always paid in court. There
was till lately an appeal to a higher tribunal, composed of
several cadis, and presided over by the mufti. This is
now suppressed.
Any contests between a Frenchman and a Mussulman
are carried before the French Courts. To these an appeal
is at any time permitted.
The Moslem women are not allowed to enter the
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
23
Mahakma, or tribunal. A little window, with iron
gratings, is reserved for their use when they have a
cause to plead. We saw several veiled figures eagerly
crowding around this little aperture; but as we could
not understand a word said, our visit was not long enough
to hear if they had any complaint to make on this
occasion.
Some
Armed with the mufti's permission we next entered
the Grand Mosque. Before the French occupation Algiers
boasted a hundred and odd mosques, some and probably the
greater proportion of which were simple koubbas.
of the finest have, of course, been appropriated for Romish
worship; some have been converted into barracks, or
otherwise adapted for military service; and a large
number have disappeared altogether, either as interfer-
ing with imperial decrees relative to new roads, fortifi-
cations, or ramparts, or have tumbled down in the lapse
of time. Only four of any note now assemble the faithful
within their walls. Of these the grand mosque of Djama
Kebir ranks highest, and is said to be the most ancient.
It dates from 409 of the Hejira, or A.D. 1018. The
minaret was not added till 1323, by the Sultan Abou-
Tachfin. Within we found worshippers performing their
devotion on their carpets and mats, which were the more
necessary as the law obliges them to leave their slippers
at the door. No particular service was going on, but
from time to time fresh devotees came in, bowed low on
entrance, and then passed through the vestibule unshod
to the court, where a fountain ever flowing amidst orange-
trees enabled them to perform the prescribed ablutions.
Around this vestibule were columns of white marble,
supporting fourteen arcades, all beautifully carved with
the favourite tooth-like decorative style. A Roman in-
scription at the base of the minaret is said to be part of
24
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
ancient Icosium, the ruins of which have served so many
successive races in building and rebuilding Algiers. It
runs thus:
•
VS RVFVS AGILIS F. FL.
ATVS D. S. P. DONVM D.
and is in good preservation. The interpretation thereof
I leave to the learned. A "dim religious light" reigns
throughout this large building, which makes it favourable
for meditation and repose. There are, however, dissenters
amongst the Mahommetans, as in every Church in all
ages. This one belongs to the Maléki sect, and is specially
favoured by the Arabs and Moors. Whitewash under
this azure blue sky, sets off to great advantage the exterior
of this and other mosques.
In the mosque Djama Djedid, in the Place de la
Pêcherie, visitors must specially ask to see a chair
sculptured in white marble, and a splendid folio copy of
the Koran in manuscript, sent as a present to some Dey
of Algiers by some Sultan of Constantinople. We did
not visit this mosque to-day, but we hear that the splen-
didly illuminated pages of this manuscript are a prodigy
of art, and cast all the monkish illuminations of the dark
ages quite into the shade.
All yesterday the arrival of our much-needed furniture
was delayed under various pretexts. A few articles made
their appearance, coupled with solemn promises that all
should be completed to-day. The man now declares,
despite the agreement, that he only undertook to furnish
one bedroom. There is also some dispute respecting the
drawing-room furniture; and the dining-room table just
sent is only fit for the kitchen. Fortunately, Zamit
seems a match for them, and if violent gesticulations on
both sides are all that is required to settle the affair, we
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
25
shall not much longer remain in the Robinson Crusoc-
like state in which we now are.
Wednesday, Nov. 4th.-The various Arab costumes
which we daily see are as yet beyond my comprehension.
The Bedouin Arabs, the swarthy sons of the desert, meet
one at every step, but habited in a garb different from
that of the Arabs who have made the town their abode.
To-day, whilst reading in the Jardin Marengo, three
Arabs, or Moors, in as many divers styles of dress, came
and stood, or leaned, over a railing near me, posing
themselves in most picturesque attitudes. The heat was
oppressive. I fell fast asleep, and awoke to find them
all squatted on the ground close by-a novel guard of
honour.
This garden in summer must be very lovely indeed.
Even now it is beautiful, if compared with a French
or English garden in November. Avenues of young
date palm trees, interspersed with tropical plants and
flowers of every hue, radiate from a central marble
fountain. The broad glossy leaves of the caoutchouc,
and those not unlike it of the banyan, a species of
Indian fig which throws out roots from its branches,
the yaccas, the aloes, the Carob tree, the Bell' ombra, the
pomegranate, and the cotton plant, grow side by side
with the hardy Scotch fir, and Laurustinus, and seem
to speak of a climate as favourable for those who seek
health here from a more temperate zone, as for those
who come from India and Persia to recruit their wasted
energies. The banyan is not indigenous, and the speci-
mens of it here are young. Its branches stretch out
horizontally like arms, and then point their fingers to
the ground, which they soon reach, take root, and throw
up other stems. In India, where they thus cover a
space many hundreds of feet in circumference, one can
26
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
well fancy a regiment taking shelter under its large
bright green leaves.
To the coxcomb tribe-certainly a very handsome
one-an especial division of the garden is reserved.
Beautifully coloured convolvuluses, phloxes, cyclamens,
salvias, and other flowers common as household words,
are intermingled with the mangrove and nutmeg tribe,
euphorbias, brumansias sanguinea, the variegated thi-
baudia, the striated abutilon, &c. &c.
Situated on the abrupt slope of a hill, the garden has
required no small degree of labour and skill to make
so large a space level. It has been achieved by flights
of steps, lowering the ground at the back, from which
we enter, and raising it up with embankments and
terraces in front, facing the sea. The whole is the work
of soldiers who have been condemned to penal servi-
tude. A colossal bust of Napoleon I. in white marble
crowns a high column erected on one of the lower walks;
the inscription to this idol of the French nation being,
66
SON GÉNIE AVAIT RÊVÉ CETTE CONQUÊTE!"
I was assured by a French lady that this garden was
formerly "exactly like Paradise," or the Garden of Eden,
I forget which. But latterly the work of demolition
has been going on, greatly circumscribing its boundaries.
The new Lycée, now in course of construction, stands
on what was once the lower part of the Jardin Marengo.
The view from the upper part is lovely in the extreme.
In accordance with prescribed etiquette, we made a
round of visits to-day on the residents. The Consul,
who draws beautifully, kindly offered to go out sketch-
ing with me. Visitors are scarcely yet arrived. Called
at the campagne of the Vice-Consul, near the Fort
Napoleon, which commands a lovely view of the Bay
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
27
Those in
of Algiers and the surrounding mountains.
the distance are the Lesser Atlas. The vast plain of
the Metidja intervenes between this range, and that of
the Sahel, on which Algiers stands, and by which it
is surrounded. The thermometer under Mr. Elmore's
verandah last summer, stood as high as 128°. The
sirocco at such seasons they naturally enough dread.
When this wind is blowing, furniture may be heard
splitting all over the house. The sea to-day is of the
brightest blue, with scarce a ripple on its surface. As
to our furniture, we are still in statu quo, and to-day,
as on each previous day, the faithless marchand promises
us to bring it "demain."
Thursday, Nov. 5th.-Heavy showers of rain fell this
morning, and our French maid, being evidently no
agriculturist, says it is "triste, bien triste."
triste, bien triste." However,
in the afternoon it cleared up, and we walked down by
the Route Malakoff to the beach, in front of the Cité
Bugeaud, as that environ of Algiers is called. A N.E.
wind had effected as complete a change in the aspect of
the sea, as it is possible to conceive. The Bristol Channel
dashing in full force against its rocky coasts, need not
have disowned the huge waves which now came rolling in
towards us; and the hue of the Mediterranean, yesterday
so blue and placid, was of that lovely tint of green so
often to be seen at Ilfracombe.
beyond the reach of vicissitudes.
day; probably a needless entry.
twilight here. That tranquil hour, the delight of
meditative spirits in our northern climes, is almost
unknown, and when the hour of sunset draws on, one
must not linger far from home.
We are not therefore
No Guy Fawkes to-
There is little or no
Sir Morton Peto is here on a visit of inspection to his
works, which are proceeding on a scale of great mag-
28
A WINTER IN ALGERIA,
nitude. He has undertaken to construct a boulevard
surmounting a rampart 6,500 feet in length, including
fortifications, extending from the Place du Gouvernement
to the Fort Bab-Azzoun. It is to be completed in 1865,
and on it the Company are expending upwards of a
million sterling. The Boulevard de l'Impératrice, by
which name it is known, looks extremely handsome on
approaching Algiers from the sea. It is raised upon lofty
arches, which are already being let as shops and ware-
houses; and the promenade over head promises to be the
most fashionable in Algiers. The terms upon which Sir
Morton Peto has undertaken this national work, are equally
advantageous to himself, and to the Government. I sup-
pose, too, the selection evinces the appreciation of the Em-
peror for English enterprise, and his confidence in English
capitalists. Sir M. Peto is said to own half the town of
Algiers, which probably may be translated to mean the
land on which the said Boulevard stands, and a strip of
the ground adjacent, throughout its length and breadth,
which has been made over to the Company for ninety-
nine years.
Assuming the stability of the Imperial
dynasty, this is unquestionably a most profitable arrange-
ment. Meanwhile, he is naturally anxious to convert it
into cash, and the other day sold a site for some large
building for 20,000l. Sir M. makes no secret of the fact
that this is likely to be a most remunerative speculation;
and as such the French in Algiers now regard the whole
affair, with no little jealousy, instead of gratitude, that
an Englishman has been found able and willing to do for
them that which they could not do for themselves.
As to our furniture, we are getting desperate, and
to-morrow must take the law into our own hands, unless
the upholsterer mends his ways. Had a long and pleasant
visit to-day from our Consul, Mr. Churchill, whom we
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
29
like much. He is a young man, but gained his C.B. from
being with General Sir. F. Williams at Kars, where his
knowledge of Persian was invaluable.
Friday, Nov. 6.--This is the sacred day par excellence
with the Mussulmen. The poor Arabs begin to excite
our interest greatly, though I am afraid great hindrances
will be thrown in the way of any manifestation of it for
their spiritual welfare. We learn from Mr. Lowitz, a mis-
sionary to the Jews stationed here, that no effort for
their spiritual enlightenment is permitted by the Govern-
ment. Even the Roman Catholics are forbidden to make
any attempt to rescue them from Islamism. Unless,
however, the word of God is given them, conversion from
one religion to another would avail little. Whenever
émeutes have occurred, violated religious prejudices have
been assigned as the cause, and have occasioned the pro-
hibitions. Would that these poor Arabs knew the value
of the Lamp of Life! Here, as elsewhere, there are special
idle corners, where, in addition to the coffee-houses, the
Arabs are wont to assemble, to listen to one of their
number who is usually engaged in telling stories, or
reading aloud. G. saw one of these men yesterday
writing, apparently at the dictation of one of his
brethren. We must try to adopt Miss Whateley's plan,
and get the New Testament stories thus read to them.
I told Mr. Churchill I wanted to get hold of some Arabic
sentences" Can you read?""Would
Would you like a book?”
&c. &c. He said it would save trouble if he answered
the first. That none of the poorer classes can read, and
amongst the better educated they can seldom do more
than read the Koran, or recite portions by heart. There
are, however, exceptions to all rules.
The furniture man is very penitent, and very profuse
in promises for "demain." We relent, of course, though
30
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
scarcely thus deceived. It is impossible to trust a word
these people say. Instead of placing the requisite fur-
niture in a proper waggon, and sending it off, as a respect-
able English tradesman would do, it is the custom here
to send up every article piecemeal on the shoulders of an
Arab; or, at best, to place it in a cart drawn by two of
these Gibeonites; for verily they are hewers of wood and
drawers of water to the rest of the community. The very
servants speak of them to their faces as "les pauvres diables,"
and I usually see our cook returning from market, her
purchases borne by an attendant Arab, whom she always
denominates a "diable." Mr. C. told us to-day that
hitherto every season has been inaugurated by leading
articles in the three newspapers which Algiers boasts,
reminding the tradespeople, and lodginghouse-keepers
that the English are now arriving, when they must make
their harvest. This advice, as far as fixing exorbitant
prices, the French Algerines have certainly not been slow
to follow. I am, however, by no means sure that they
do not mistake the means for the end.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
31
CHAPTER IV.
FURTHER EXPERIENCES.
Furniture Climax-Description of the Casbah-Its Past History-Deeds of
Cruelty-Insult to the French Consul within its Walls-The French
Conquest-The Casbah as the French found it-Wanton Destruction of
the Public Archives-Arab Porters-Opening of the Railway to Blidah—
French Vanity-Crimean Medals in the French Army-Gales in the
Mediterranean-History of the Kabyles-The Arabs-The Moors-The
Mozabites-The Biskris.
Saturday, Nov. 7th.-We have been one week to-day in
our unfurnished abode. Patience herself could not be
expected longer to await the upholsterer's pleasure, espe-
cially as on all hands it is agreed he is a perfect cheat.
Finding we were not to be imposed on, and that the
commissionnaire to the consulate whom we had employed,
insisted upon the performance of his agreement; and
that good articles, instead of rubbish, should be sent, he
probably regretted his bargain. The vice-consul kindly
accompanied G. to-day to the magasin, and by his advice
G. desired that the little furniture which had been sent
up, should all be taken away. So we have now to com-
mence the purchase of furniture, at the dearest time of
the year. As a salve we are told that every one attempt-
ing to hire has suffered much in the same way. A gen-
tleman tells us, that had the said marchand fulfilled his
contract, he might, at the expiration of the term, have held
us responsible for every scratch or stain, received in fair
wear and tear, and charged us the full nominal value of
32
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
the article. Had we even taken a furnished house, or
apartments, as we at first intended, we must have had an
inventory descending to minutiae, such as would never
have entered an Englishman's head; every crack or stain
in the crockery must have been registered therein, or we
might perchance have had to buy a new service-an event
which had actually occurred to a friend of his own. So
altogether it has, perhaps, ended well, however great the
tax upon our time, serenity, and comfort.
We cannot too highly recommend Zamit to the notice
of any future visitors to Algiers. His willingness to
oblige, and readiness to do anything and everything in
his power to serve, and his knowledge of all the lan-
guages in common use-and this is saying a great deal
-make him quite invaluable to new comers.
There are excellent photographers in Algiers, and we
have been fortunate in getting a photograph of the view
from our house, overlooking the Jardin Marengo, and the
Mosque of Djama Abd-er-Rhaman-et-Tçalbi with its
exquisitely graceful minaret, and giving our eastern
boundary-the walls of the once famed Casbah: What
strange memories must that name evoke to one learned
in Algerine history. The word itself designates a citadel
on a height, and as such is applied to other citadels in
Algeria. This one, situated 464 feet above the sea level,
formerly appertaining to the seat of Government, and the
most ancient fortress in Algiers, has a special history.
Hither the Deys, who had too often waded to the throne
through blood, and were consequently in perpetual
apprehension of violence, resorted on the slightest appre-
hension of danger. Here, too, they transported their
treasure and valuables, and frequently resided at the
Casbah, even when free from alarms. It was at once the
palace, the stronghold, and the dungeon, of the reigning

BOLLLLL
THE
CITY OF ALGIERS, ITS
CASBAIL
AND
PORT.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
33
sovereign; and so long as the Janissaries proved faithful
to his person, he could set all surprisals at defiance.
These walls on which we look, have often been
witnesses to deeds of cruelty, open and secret. At the
beginning of the present century, before Lord Exmouth's
appearance here, when Mustafa Pasha ruled, an Arab
chief, named Toubeurt, beheaded in one day, in front of
the Casbah, 132 of his men who had deserted him. This
parade-ground, for such it is now become, is still used as
a place for public executions. A gentleman told me the
other day he had been up there to see a poor wretched
Moor shot. I supposed it was accidental, but he pleaded
guilty to a full comprehension of what was to be enacted.
How singular a taste! Is it sympathy with human woe,
or morbid curiosity, which draws men to see how their
fellows comport themselves when brought out to front a
death of shame ?
Ali-Ben-Ahmed, the last Dey but one, having alienated
the affections of the military, caused all his treasures to
be transported by night to the Casbah, and there shut
himself up with a strong guard, to avoid the fate of his
predecessor. The Janissaries broke into open revolt on
discovering how they had been overreached; but Ali
proved himself their match, and stopped the émeute by
decapitating the greater number of them.
It was in this very Casbah that the blow, that is, cuff
with his chasse-mouche, was administered by Hussein
Dey to the French consul, which afforded so plausible
a pretext for the invasion, and final subjugation of
Algeria. If
"Dulce et decorum est pro patriæ mori,”
how inexpressibly sweet and soothing must have been
the reflections of the French minister, who, at so much
D
34
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
slighter a cost, secured for his country a conquest,
the importance of which can hardly be over-estimated.
France, however, had certainly deeper grounds of com-
plaint, and a juster pretext for this invasion and conquest
of Algiers, than is generally supposed. The conduct of
the Dey towards her was marked with a degree of
perfidy, which hardly comports with Eastern astuteness
and a political savoir faire towards so powerful a nation,
The French had secured the exclusive right over the
coral fisheries in these waters, in virtue of an annual
tribute of 17,000 francs, Suddenly the Dey, without
warning, raised this sum to 20,000 francs. This un-
reasonable demand was no sooner complied with, than he
gave permission to other nations to poach on their coral
grounds. Remonstrances so offended the Dey, that he
ordered the French consul to quit Algiers, and the
minister was only permitted to remain on payment of a
fine of 100,000 francs.
It was not to be expected that such a nation as France
would for ever submit to these insults, but the climax
was reached in April, 1827. The French Consul espoused
the cause of two Algerine Jews, to whom a sum of
7,000,000 francs was due, a portion of which the Dey
desired to pocket. It was then that the never-to-be-
forgotten interview took place in the Casbah, when the
Dey so far forgot himself as to strike M. Duval, the
French Consul, with his fan.
Nor did their folly end here, for upon a Minister pleni-
potentiary being sent to Algiers to demand reparation,
he found Moorish duplicity more than a match for his
diplomacy. The Ambassador had to leave the question
unsettled, but upon his vessel quitting the harbour, all
the guns of the fort were, without warning or pretext,
opened upon him. No wonder that a French fleet was
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
35
equipped, and despatched from Toulon to avenge this
new outrage.
This palace and fortress of the Dey was formerly
surrounded by massive walls bristling with 200 cannon,
which defended every approach by land or sea. These
walls are now in a state of sad dilapidation, and
entrances have been made in all directions.
The wide carriage-road which passes our door, leading
to El Biar and into the interior, now runs through the
Casbah. What apostrophes to Allah would have been
excited at the bare suggestion of such a possibility,
previous to the year 1830! The only entrance then
was by a single gate in white marble at the highest
end. Beside it the mouth of a cannon, enormous in
size for those days, and painted red, appeared through
the wall to guard the approach, and overawe the Dey's
loving lieges. Having passed the white gate, the visitor
was conducted under a black Moorish horseshoe arch-
way, from which hung suspended lanterns and divers
vessels, beyond which was a white marble fountain fed
by a never-failing spring. From thence the guest pro-
ceeded through an open alley, with flowers on either
side, leading to the palace of the Dey, and to several
batteries on the right; on the left to the powder maga-
zine, and to the batteries which commanded the city. I
suppose one may form some faint conception from this
of what "Shushan the Palace" was like, at least the
Casbah has often helped me already to understand
parts of the Book of Esther, which seem unintelligible to
our English idea of palaces.
The large court of the palace, now transformed into
barracks, is paved with white marble, and surrounded,
like all the Moorish houses, with a covered gallery formed
by a range of arcades which support marble columns.
D 2
36
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
This gallery was covered with pieces of coloured glass of
every form and every hue, brought from all parts of the
world. In the adjacent tower some of the same orna-
mental work is still to be seen, and remarkably well it
looks. Merle, the secretary of General Bourmont, who
entered the palace immediately upon its surrender, says
the only furniture in the state room-the whole length
of the gallery-consisted of some Smyrna carpets, a time-
piece of Buhl, a small cabinet containing the Koran, a
Turkish calendar, and some perfumes; and lastly, an
English barometer resting on a table of acacia-wood.
A long, low bench was placed the whole length of the
gallery, the upper end of which was covered with scarlet
cloth, fringed with the same colour. Here the Dey gave
audiences, and administered summary justice. At this
end was a door secured by all the Hobbs' and Chubb's of
that date, leading into the treasury. To render this
secure there were long corridors, from whence number-
less dark caverns, each about four feet wide, were entered.
In these, gold and silver coins of every realm were found
in strange confusion. Over the treasury were the apart-
ments of the Dey, and his harem. Within the precincts
of the palace was a mosque, an armoury, baths, a vast
powder magazine, a menagerie, zoological gardens, pa-
vilions allotted to the beys of the different provinces,
&c. &c. &c., the whole surrounded by a wall forty feet
high. After hearing this, it is not difficult to believe
a fact stated of the last Dey. He never but twice in his
life quitted the Casbah, and on those two occasions only
to visit his princely gardens at Bab-el-Oued.
It must ever be a source of regret that when the
French found themselves installed in the Casbah-an
event which occurred within one calendar month from
the date of their landing at Sidi Ferruch-so little disci-
A WINTER IN ALGERIA,
37
pline or supervision was exercised, that, under the very
eyes of the officer in command, the public archives were
utterly destroyed; the common soldiers actually lighting
their pipes with documents-invaluable to the historian
-which were found in the State-Paper Office. Poor
General Bourmont was so overwhelmed with grief at
the loss of his son, that he left everything to the un-
intelligent mercies of his subordinates. Unfortunately
their organs of destructiveness were allowed free scope;
the country between Sidi Ferruch and Algiers was laid
waste-trees were cut down, gardens destroyed, aqueducts
irreparably damaged, and in every respect the conduct of
the army was as though they had only come to invade,
to pillage, and to retire.
Monday, Nov. 9th. We are getting something of a
settled look; and my advice to all who contemplate a
winter's sojourn in a house or apartments, non meublés,
in Algeria, would certainly be, to buy their furniture in
preference to hiring it. The lazy natives who lie coiled
up in all parts of the Jardin Marengo, or prostrate along
the pavements, especially in the Rue D'Isly, start into
life endowed with almost inconceivable strength, when
engaged as burden-bearers.
Few of the shopkeepers
ever send home one's purchases. If you desire to have
them the same day, they volunteer at once to send for an
Arab, if, indeed, one is not already at your heels, having
entered with you in expectation of an engagement.
To-day G. bought a large and heavy divan-of course
with three cushions-a drawing-room pier-glass, full size,
and a small centre table. All these shortly arrived
borne on the shoulders of three Arabs, or more probably
on their heads.
On Saturday we had a bevy of these wild sons of the
Desert in attendance, when one certainly carried two
38
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
tables, about the size of dressing-tables, on his head.
After all, it is a very enviable power; and as for our-
selves I know not how we should get on without them.
One of the English residents called to-day. He was
here at the opening of the railway which connects
Algiers and Blidah. On the occasion carriages were
provided, for all the big-wigs who were invited to make
the trial trip, but, by some strange oversight, none were
allotted to the English engineers, or any of the officials
of the Company. Inquiry was naturally made by
the latter as to which carriages were reserved for the
engineers.
"None at all," was the reply. Nor was this polite
tone changed until they were thoroughly made to
comprehend that the railroad, being as yet unpaid for,
was not theirs. This altered the French view of the
matter. Carriages were instantly ordered to be placed
at their disposal, and tickets for the dinner, which they
had previously withheld even from Sir M. Peto's agent,
were now graciously offered, and, I believe, as graciously
declined. The railroad, by the way, is entirely the work
of English talent, aided by English capital. At the
dinner, which wound up the rejoicings on the occasion,
speeches were made, healths drunk, congratulations
exchanged. The enthusiasm of all present was au
comble, when the Marshal presiding actually shed
tears in expatiating on the debt of gratitude due from
Algeria to her great Emperor, and at the bonté of the
French people in having achieved this great work! It
is perhaps unnecessary to add that the name of Sir
M. Peto was never mentioned, nor the most distant
allusion made to English enterprise as having had
any hand in the matter.
We have doubtless our own failings, but whatever
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
39
may be our peculiar vices, I do not think this inordinate
vanity, and depreciation of other nations, is characteristic
of Englishmen. It seems rather the reverse, especially
amongst those of our compatriots with whom one comes
in contact abroad, and who appear too often to take
an unseemly delight in extolling everything foreign, at
the expense of their own country. 'Your greatest mis-
fortune is being an Englishman," foreign artists have
repeatedly said to Philips. "If you could but pass for
a foreigner of any nation, all London would be wild
about your singing, and you would have made a fortune
long ago."
French vanity has such a childish aspect, that one
feels inclined to pity and pardon, but for the extra-
ordinary impertinence superadded. I remember being
in Paris after the Crimean medals had been issued to the
French army, in commemoration of their Eastern campaign.
Seeing a medal on the breast of a soldier to whom we
were speaking, turned the reverse side, G. turned it round
so as to display the effigy of our beloved Queen, to whom
he made some allusion. The soldier replied by a con-
temptuous retort, and reversed it. This led to inquiry
on the subject among some friends long resident in
Paris, and conversant with the feelings and ideas of the
French army. Mr. F. assured us that when first the
medals were distributed, the wrath excited was only
to be paralleled by that subsequently excited in India
at the issue of the unfortunate cartridges, and the soldiers
could not be pacified but by their officers going amongst
them, and solemnly assuring them that the medals were
simply intended to commemorate the gratitude of the
English at having been saved by French valour from
utter destruction! Viewing it in the light of a medal
given by the Royal Humane Society, they condescended
40
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
to wear it, and the impending émeute was averted. So
ridiculous did this story appear, that we have again and
again mentioned it to those whom a long Continental
residence had made familiar with French sentiments,
and they either confirmed it, or saw nothing incredible
in it. So much for a national weakness, which, however,
we shall find underlying, I doubt not, many estimable
qualities. Nor is this by way of advancing any special
claim to an award of humility on England's behalf. I
believe we are too proud to be vain, and from very
consciousness of pride desire rather to veil than to
manifest it.
This evening it is pouring in torrents. Everything
in these regions seems in earnest, man only excepted.
Many trees, and flowers, and shrubs which in England
we know only as small and prized exotics, are here
spreading out their exuberant treasures, and even
waving them above our heads. The sun at noonday
makes us seek shelter, and forget it is November; all
is life and animation, all but these poor torpid, pur-
poseless, and degraded-looking natives. The post from
England came in to-day. The weather at Brighton is
described as terrific at the very time of our crossing,
and for several days after our arrival. We were then
suffering from intense heat. Admiral Fitzroy had just
predicted a continuance of gales for six weeks. A
pleasant prospect.
Nov. 10th. One of the most singular sights here is
that of the Moslem veiled women, who are to be seen in
every direction. They never leave their homes without
a sort of handkerchief across the face fastened below the
eyes, called cudjar, and a large white woollen or muslin
cloak, which they call khaik el telhhil, veiling the entire
person. The eyes and painted eyebrows are alone visible.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
41
By dint of questioning the best authorities oral and
written, we have gleaned such information as makes us
better able to analyse the component parts of the motley
crowd by which we are surrounded. I feel justified,
therefore, in hazarding an entry as to the distinctions
amongst the native races. These are more clearly defined
by their dress and habits, than by a marked difference in
their physiognomics.
The Kabyles are said to be the veritable aborigines.
Most of the Arabian writers have been content to fix
the date of their existence as a people at the third or
fourth century of the Hegira. One, however, bolder
than the rest, says, "The truth is," dispensing with all
further hypotheses, "that the Kabyles are the children of
Canaan, son of Ham, son of Noah." Be this as it may,
their moral character certainly places them in the fore-
most rank amongst the natives of Algeria. In strong
contradistinction to the Arabs, they are fond of labour
and despise idleness. A nomadic life is consequently
unsuited to their tastes, and they prefer the house to the
tent. The Kabyle not unfrequently contents himself with
only one wife, to whom he is faithful and attached, and
who, therefore, is considerably removed above the level
of the Arab woman. Indeed it is said there are holy
women amongst the Kabyles, which would seem to imply
that they have souls-a fact which Mahomet never
questioned, though the generality of his followers do.
To stay the importunities of an ancient dame, who once
implored him to grant her a high place in heaven, he
replied that there would be no old women in Paradise-
an equivoque which answered the twofold purpose in-
tended, but gave rise to an endless misconception of his
views amongst Mussulmen in general.
By their own code, the number of wives is not per-
42
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
mitted to exceed four, and in multiplying his spouses
even to this mild extent, the Kabyle makes a legal
surrender of his independence, in an inverse ratio to the
increase of his acquisitions. During the day he is per-
mitted to enjoy himself as best he can, but at sunset he
becomes the sole property of one of his wives, who take
it in turn to spend the evening with him alone, and
keep him in charge till break of day. An invasion of
this privilege is most seriously resented; and the only
time when these vested rights are ceded, is on the occa-
sion of a fresh marriage, before the given number is
complete. The bride is then usually permitted the
undisputed society of her lord for eight days.
At the time of the conquest of Kabylia, Colonel
Walmesley relates that while riding in company with
Gen. Rondière, a Kabyle woman came out from her hut,
and seated herself on the ground in the midst of the
road-a sign this of having something to say—and
the General reined in his horse. Amidst copious tears
her plaintive tale was told. Her husband having taken
a fourth wife, had withdrawn his affections from her, and
no longer allowed her the evening which was hers by
law. She prayed, amidst heart-breaking lamentations,
for a restitution of conjugal rights; and the General's
award being in her favour, the interpreter was sent to
impress the same on her recreant lord.
The Kabyle is the soul of honour and integrity, and
prides himself on his loyalty and hospitality, and on the
sacredness of his word. He regards the anaïa, much in
the light that an Englishman regards the Habeas Corpus
Act. It renders inviolate the person of any one, be he
friend or stranger, who takes shelter under his roof.
The love of country is strong in him. He is quick and
intelligent, though illiterate. Few of the Kabyles can
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
43
read and write. Their memories, like those of the bards
of yore, are filled with Arabian traditions and war-songs.
As regards the outer man, opinions differ. I have before
me two books, one of which paints him with blue eyes;
the other states that the true Kabyle has always brown,
black, or red eyes. I incline to the authority of the
former, but will henceforth make my own observations.
In person he is well built, of middle height, strong, and
robust. The face is square, with a light-coloured com-
plexion, thick lips, and what the French call a voluminous
head. This latter is usually bare. The Kabyles wear a
sort of woollen shirt which reaches below the knee, called
the cheloukha, and sometimes, but not always, the bur-
nouse, which is gracefully thrown over the shoulder.
A kind of leather leggings, without covering for the feet,
seems to complete their costume.
The Kabyles are chiefly to be found in the Atlas
Mountains, where for centuries they held their own
against all invaders. They live in villages called
dashkrahs, consisting chiefly of tents which they call
gurbie, composed of mud and loose stones, covered with
reeds or palm-tree branches, and thatched with turf,
straw, or the long fibrous spikes of the aloe.
The French conquest had been predicted by a celebrated
prophetess amongst them, Lalla Fatma by name, whose
fame, when 1857 brought Marshal Pelissier to their
mountain fastnesses, was only increased by the accom-
plishment of her prophecy. She sent her brother to
negotiate terms, and was herself received by the General
and his staff, with as much politeness as though she had
been a princess. This submission terminated the Kabyle
struggle for independence.
The Arabs may be divided into several classes-richer
and poorer, inhabitants of the city and of the country-
44
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
but the fashion of their costume is unvarying: that is,
the flowing burnouse is universal, the closely-shaven
head is always covered. In point of richness it will,
of course, differ according to the means of the wearer,
and great is the taste for display amongst the younger
men. The Bedouins, too, may always be distinguished
at a glance from their city cousins, by the coarseness
of the texture of their garments, the addition of a black
burnouse, and the coverings used for the head. Whether
in town or country, in the kahoua or coffee-house, or
under a wide-spreading carob-tree, their delight is to
congregate together, and to enjoy their pipe in perfect
idleness by the hour together. Their vernacular is said
by those who are studying Arabic here, to be far from
pure.
The Arabs have chiefs both military and religious, and
own three grades of nobility. The first and highest is
that of birth. To be admitted into their aristocracy, the
patent of nobility must prove a descent from Fatima
Zohra, daughter of the prophet, and Sidi Ali-Abi-Taleb.
The influence of this class is considerable. The members
of the military noblesse are called Djouad. They are
descended from the most ancient and illustrious families
in their tribes. To them it belongs to make peace, or
war. Virtually, therefore, the Arabs become subject to
the djouad. The title of their religious chiefs is that of
Marabout. The Marabout is a sort of high priest. In
the eyes of the Arabs he preserves their faith intact. He
is specially devoted to the study of the Koran, and to the
instruction of the younger Mussulmen in the religion of
Mahomet. His words become oracles, and it is not
difficult to understand, how even one of these devotees
can excite and inflame the passions of a whole tribe. If,
on the other hand, they range themselves on the side of
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
45
peace, they have frequently been known to stop the
effusion of blood. The Arabs in Algeria are divided
into almost endless tribes. In the province of Constantine
alone there are eighteen principal tribes, some owning
unpronounceable names, such as the Oulad-Si-Yahaïa-
ben-Taleb tribe, and the Oulad-Nail-Cheraga. Nineteen
more are scattered throughout the province of Algiers, the
Oulad Khrouïdems, and the Beni-Khrelifas amongst them;
and ten or twelve or more in that of Oran. It is needless
to say they are not yet reconciled to the French occupa-
tion, and always entertain hopes of regaining their
liberty. The Arabs and the Kabyles have for many
centuries held Northern Africa as their own. Together
they number about 13,000,000.
The Moors, according to M. Victor Bérard, are the
descendants of all the races who have alternately landed.
on the shores of Algeria, from the time of the Argonauts,
down to the renegades of the last century. After such
a statement, one is not surprised to hear that they are
mean, cringing, indolent, false, cowardly, boasting, and
void of strength, either mental or physical. Nevertheless,
the Moor is beyond the average stature, with oval face,
aquiline nose, and large, dark, lustrous eyes. Their
costume is more purcly Oriental than that of the Arab,
and their manner and bearing often such as would befit
a pasha. The head is always closely shaven, and we
frequently see the operation performed in public. The
invariable turban is made of folds of white muslin, or
formed of a twisted and sometimes embroidered scarf.
The djabadoli, or veste, and the sedria, as their two
waistcoats are called, are all of the brightest colours, and
worked in silk, silver, or gold. They seldom indulge in
stockings, but wear a kind of large, and almost oval shoe,
most difficult to keep on the foot, one would imagine.
46
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
The Biskeris are the water-carriers. So picturesque I
always think them, with their large copper pitcher on
their shoulders, that their name at least must be remem-
bered. They are descended from a cross between the
Arab and Kabyles. Dressed in a white cloth tunic and
trousers, with bare feet, and shaven heads, we constantly
meet them plying their calling.
The Mozabites are, too, a distinct and peculiar people ;
so a new comer has no slight task in attempting to master
all these divisions and sub-divisions of the native races.
They are a cross between the Kabyles and the Jews, and
partake more of the commercial character of the latter.
Their burnouses are generally striped with blue bands.
The rest of the community-Jews, Turks, Infidels, and
Heretics, Spaniards, Maltese, and Negroes-must rest in
peace for the present as far as I am concerned. I cannot
to-day commit to paper more of my recently-acquired
knowledge, and probably my readers will think they have
already had more than enough.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
47
CHAPTER V.
SUMMER IN WINTER.
An Englishman's first Adventure-Fort des 24 Heures-Storms in the Medi-
terranean-Fires required-Arrival of the King of Bavaria-A Midsummer
Day-Fruit-Sad Story of English Emigrants-Chasseurs D'Afrique-Snow
on the Djordjora-Acclimatization-Three Rules for New Comers-English
Workmen-Opinion of the Arabs on the Statue to the Emperor-Acclima-
tizing Fever-Gabrielle's "Venial Sin "-Sunday Sports-Point Pescade-
Fishery-An unexpected Meeting.
Tuesday, Nov. 11th.-A young Englishman has just
been with us, recounting an adventure which might
have been less amusing to a nervous invalid, than it
was apparently to himself. He had ordered a riding
horse to be at his hotel at a certain hour, and found
one at the door at the appointed time, held by an
Arab. He asked if it were for him, and if it came
from such and such stables, to all which the Arab,
who probably understood but little of French, assented.
Mr. H. mounted-was perfectly satisfied with his steed,
and greatly enjoyed his ride. On his return he found
the police in attendance, and had a narrow escape of
being taken into custody as a thief. He had ridden
off with a horse belonging to General de B.; but his
explanations were deemed satisfactory, and all passed off
harmoniously. This afternoon another downpour came
on, driving first from the east, and then, instantly
changing round, from the west. Although close to the
house when it began, I was completely wet before I
could get under shelter.
48
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
The rains appear to have thoroughly set in. Last
night there was a perfect waterspout, and another to-day;
but, unlike the rainy season in India, between the storms
the weather is most enjoyable. The dust is laid, the heat
is no longer scorching; the trees, which still retain their
leaves, are all brilliantly green, and the air has something
about it most refreshing. A friend pointed out the site
of the Fort des Vingt-Quatre Heures, of which now
nothing remains but a small portion of the rock on which
it stood, and even this is rapidly disappearing the
artillery barracks and parade-ground, more than occu-
pying its original position. This evening it is excessively
cold, and we are warming ourselves with wraps, and con-
templating fires as soon as we can procure the pre-
requisites. It may be as well to state that unfurnished
apartments are most truthfully what their cognomen
denotes, viz. four bare walls-not even grates in the
empty fireplaces.
12th.-Admiral Fitzroy's gales have certainly visited
us, and we are not a little thankful that we crossed the
Mediterranean when we did. The thunder and lightning
last night, and a great part of to-day, has been most
crashing and vivid, accompanied by torrents of rain.
Having bought our "Griffins," we are luxuriating beside a
wood fire-coal being nearly unattainable. Despite the
deluge of rain we have had, between the storms it is
dry enough under foot. The thirsty state of the earth
(which at the period of our arrival had drunk in no rain
since last May) probably explains this phenomenon, for
Algiers cannot boast a gravelly soil.
The King of Bavaria and suite arrived to-day per
steamer, and the Hotel de la Régence has been prepared
for his reception. A gentleman of our acquaintance
has just secured for himself furnished apartments, with
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
49
attendance, cooking, plate, and linen all included-quite
à l'Anglais. We made special inquiries before coming
here, as to whether such could possibly be obtained, to
avoid the trouble of having a small establishment of
one's own; but were assured such arrangements were
unknown in Algiers. Our servant was not well when
she came, and is now ill in fever, which does not tend
to facilitate our settlement in our new habitation.
Nov. 13th.-
"The day is cold, and dark, and dreary,
It rains, and the wind is never weary.'
""
Longfellow might have composed this in Algeria.
The thermometer is registered to-day at 11° above
freezing-point (Reaumur) in the town, and in our higher
latitude it must be colder still. The tremendous storms
of last night subsided into incessant rain all to-day.
"Can this be a climate for consumptive patients?" we
have repeatedly ejaculated. A conversation with our
proprietaire, has tended in some degree to adjust the
seeming discrepancies between Algeria as we had pictured
it, and Algeria as we found it. After trying in vain to
reconcile us to the unexpected state of things, by
assuring us that to-morrow might be so hot we should
hardly know how to bear it, she suddenly enlightened me
by saying, "Madame, la pluie c'est le froid." It appears
that winter, in our acceptation of the term, is unknown
here, and that cold is never felt in the daytime, but as an
accompaniment of rain. Mr. L. who braved the weather,
and called to-day, assured us that during a long residence
in Algiers, he had never remembered such storms, and
that he has known the month of December to be an
uninterrupted sunshine. Picnics, and such like parties al
fresco are not usually undertaken till the month of
January.
E
50
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
Nov. 14th.-A Midsummer day! Just the weather
one might expect in June the day after a good thunder-
storm had cleared the air. Fruit is one of the few good
things to be had at bon marché. The grapes here are far
finer than in France. We visited the Covent Garden of
Algiers to-day, and bought grapes at 40 centimes per
livre; dates the same, walnuts the same, and a further
investment of fourpence secured a good-sized melon.
This is not, however, the fruit season; the long-continued
drought having made havoc of all garden produce. In
some of the country houses we have visited, the court-
yard is completely trellised over with vines. Often the
many clusters suspended overhead, have been the produce
of a single vine. The fruit of the banana is the one most
to my taste. The finest specimens measure 7 inches
long and 4 inches in circumference. They are of a
bright golden colour. Whole orchards of these trees
may be seen, and one or more flourish in every garden,
where their gigantic leaves bid defiance to all rivalry.
The prickly pear, the fruit of the cactus, I cannot make
up my mind to taste. It is said, however, to be very
nourishing, and is a staple article of food amongst the
natives. Poor creatures, it is pitiable to see them pulling
up green leaves on the hill-sides, and to know that from
food like this they often derive their only subsistence !
1
We had heard of a poor Englishman being laid up in
the civil hospital at Mustapha, and drove there to-day to
see him. G. found him out without much difficulty. It
was the old story of false hopes, and delusive expectations.
He and his father were in good employ at Bath as
sawyers, when an agent employed to find colonists for
Algeria, persuaded them that this was an El Dorado. He
assured them that they would find such magnificent
forests, that they might ship wood to England, and as
A WINTER IN ALGERIA,
51
timber merchants alone, might make a fortune in no time.
In an evil hour, and in total ignorance of the language,
they came. The couleur de rose with which they had
come prepared to invest all they saw, rapidly faded away
under the discovery that there was not a stick of oak
which, when stripped of its cork-like bark, exceeded a
few inches in diameter, and that forests were a myth.
This was the first blight; other representations proved
equally fallacious; hope fled, fever attacked them, they
struggled against it, their friends grew rapidly less,
depression engendered fresh fever, and fever nursed
despondency, till the father, and son, and a younger
brother, are all alike prostrate, as we now find them.
Putting aside the morality of the thing, what good can
be gained by thus imposing on the credulity of English
mechanics, and labourers? The climate is a trying one,
even for those who can afford to rest, and take care of
themselves.
Leaving the hospital, we passed through what appeared
like a badly kept farm-yard, under an avenue of the
beautiful Bell' Ombras. These were the quarters allotted
to the famed Chasseurs d'Afrique. They are a fine-
looking regiment. Close by is the Champ de Manoeuvres,
an extensive plain under the plateaux of Mustapha
Supérieur, running down to the sea. Here the Chasseurs
are constantly exercised, and once a year the Arabs come
in great force to display their equestrian prowess. The
scarlet and white burnouses floating in the air, the spears
gleaming in the sunshine, their banners and richly-
caparisoned horses, the address with which they manage
their steeds, make this a very attractive scene.
Sunday, Nov. 15th.-In going down to Church, we
saw snow on the Djordjora for the first time. The
mountain looked down on us as it lay bathed in the
E 2
52
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
bright sunbeams, so calm and majestic, that it seemed the
only object thoroughly in harmony with the sanctity of
the day. Congregation only numbered thirty, as before.
Nov. 16th.-Called at the Prefêt's, M. Mercier La
Combe, who is much liked here, and celebrated for the
liberality of his views and opinions. He has married an
English lady, daughter to the late Consul, Mr. Bell. He
is said to be a great favourite with the Emperor, and
likely to be promoted to some post nearer His Majesty's
person when an opportunity occurs.* Meanwhile, he is
the most gentlemanly-looking Frenchman we have yet
seen in the colony. We found them at their country
house, the approach to which, as indeed to almost every
house of the kind, is kept in the most wilderness-like
state imaginable. Perhaps they brush up for the summer.
From their campagne the snowy range of the Atlas formed
a striking feature in the panorama. The western sun
cast a roseate hue aslant on the distant summits of the
mountains of Kabylia, and made me long to achieve a
visit to those parts. It is this constant background
of hills, which constitutes the great beauty in every
landscape here. For the first time to-day we saw the
Bay of Algiers studded with sailing-vessels. So still and
mirror-like was its azure blue water, that some of the
said craft lay becalmed on its bosom for hours.
Wednesday, Nov. 18th.-The weather is glorious. No
rain since Friday, and we are told that fine weather has
now set in. This announcement sounds too premature
to be credible. Madame M. tells us that she has usually
found the end of December, and the month of January, a
most enjoyable time here, the first rains being then over.
Meanwhile, after sunset we often find it intensely cold.
* Since then we have seen with great pleasure M. Mercier's promotion to
the appointment of Prefêt of Lyons.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
53
We are thankful to sit over good fires, and 'to heap the
yule faggot high,' likening our position to that so well
known in England's olden time. One needs acclima-
tising here; and sundry ills in the form of neuralgia,
fever, &c. frequently assail new comers. I am afraid we
shall be unable to claim exemption.
Three special hints I must here commit to paper, for
the benefit of those who may visit Algiers :-
1. Be well provided with warm clothing, and wraps.
2. Take rooms facing the south. Hot though the
climate be, eschew a northern aspect for the winter.
3. Never remain out at this season between the hours
of three and five, when the temperature gets suddenly,
and sensibly chilly. The doctors are very particular in
enforcing this injunction.*
We found out to-day several families of English work-
men, employed on the new boulevard. Even in this
undertaking, the two races do not always find it easy to
co-operate. The English foremen take infinite pains in
training the ouvriers under them, but find the French
always on the alert to take advantage of them. The
Arabs are usually so lazy, that the services of Spaniards
have to be substituted. Nevertheless, they seem alive
to the benefits accruing to the place from the Company's
operations. A gentleman who speaks Arabic, told us
last week of an amusing conversation he held with a
knot of Arabs, who asked his opinion as to the need of
the new statue proposed to be erected in honour of the
Emperor. They wanted to know what good Napoleon
had ever done them, and ended by saying they should
prefer seeing one erected to Sir M. Peto, who had
really provided the people with work, and benefited the
town.
*For further particulars relating to the climate, see Appendix.
54
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
Monday, Nov. 23d. For several days I have been
prostrate under an attack of fever, which quinine has, I
trust, at length subdued. G. is less fortunate. He has
been, and is still, suffering in various ways. I can as
yet scarcely crawl into the garden, and can only make
a domestic entry, instructive enough in its way. Our
R. C. femme de ménage has always rebelled against the
order, which seems whimsical to her, to provide on
the Saturday for the following day. Yesterday we had
new bread for breakfast, despite my having refreshed the
cook's memory on Saturday. Afterwards I spoke to her,
when the following dialogue ensued:-
"You have bought bread again to-day, Gabrielle."
"No, Madame, I bought it yesterday."
"But it was new bread."
"Madame is mistaken; it was yesterday's bread."
"How can you tell me so? I know new bread, and
this was to-day's baking."
"Ah! (in a whining tone) Madame then has found it
out? Yes, she cannot be deceived. Ah, yes, I have told
a lie; but Madame has not sinned, for she knew nothing
about it; and I have not sinned, for our religion allows
us to buy on the Sunday."
"Then yours cannot be the religion of the Bible, for
God commands us to keep holy the Sabbath day, and
forbids us to buy or sell on that day.'
22
"Ah! I never read the Bible; but our religion lets us
do so."
"And does your religion allow you to tell lies?"
4.6
Ah, Madame, that was a sin, but it was not a great
one; it was only a venial sin in our religion."
6
"But the Bible says nothing about venial sin. It says
all unrighteousness is sin, and the soul that sinneth it
shall die;' so yours cannot be the religion of the Bible."
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
55
"Very likely not, Madame; I only know what my
priest tells me.”
I think she must, in the further course of our con-
versation, have gleaned that no other priest but the
One within the veil, could pardon sin; for, some time
after, she came to notify that she was going to mass,
adding,-"I am sure I wish I had a better religion,
but till I have, I must attend to my own." Oh! that
the true light might shine on the benighted thousands
here. Can one be surprised at the universal opinion
expressed here, that none of the servants are to be
trusted? I only hope this apt pupil of her priest's, may
not prove to be equally well instructed in Liguori's
code of morals, endorsed as it is by the Pope, and the
whole College of Cardinals.
In the afternoon our thoughts were turned to the
many Sabbath-school children, just then assembling in
our own dear land, when the quiet which reigned around,
was suddenly broken by an unwonted uproar of voices
and merriment. Looking out, we saw on the hill-side
a large gathering of children, headed by, and under
the direction of, two nuns, who carried on their dances
and Sunday sports for a considerable time.
Tuesday, 24th.-Able to take a drive to-day to Point
Pescarde, where we got out and walked. The ex-King
of Bavaria had taken the same route, and we passed
him on foot with two of his suite, his carriage following.
The drive is a very pretty one. The overhanging shrub-
covered hills on the one side, and the coves and beaches
to which precipitous descents lead down on the other,
reminded us much of the coast scenery around Torquay.
Probably in the hands of the English, this might become
its rival in beauty, as in natural position it resembles
But a certain indescribable stamp of wilderness
it.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
55
66
'Very likely not, Madame; I only know what my
priest tells me.”
I think she must, in the further course of our con-
versation, have gleaned that no other priest but the
One within the veil, could pardon sin; for, some time
after, she came to notify that she was going to mass,
adding, "I am sure I wish I had a better religion,
but till I have, I must attend to my own." Oh! that
the true light might shine on the benighted thousands
here. Can one be surprised at the universal opinion
expressed here, that none of the servants are to be
trusted? I only hope this apt pupil of her priest's, may
not prove to be equally well instructed in Liguori's
code of morals, endorsed as it is by the Pope, and the
whole College of Cardinals.
In the afternoon our thoughts were turned to the
many Sabbath-school children, just then assembling in
our own dear land, when the quiet which reigned around,
was suddenly broken by an unwonted uproar of voices
and merriment. Looking out, we saw on the hill-side
a large gathering of children, headed by, and under
the direction of, two nuns, who carried on their dances
and Sunday sports for a considerable time.
Tuesday, 24th.-Able to take a drive to-day to Point
Pescarde, where we got out and walked. The ex-King
of Bavaria had taken the same route, and we passed
him on foot with two of his suite, his carriage following.
The drive is a very pretty one. The overhanging shrub-
covered hills on the one side, and the coves and beaches
to which precipitous descents lead down on the other,
reminded us much of the coast scenery around Torquay.
Probably in the hands of the English, this might become
its rival in beauty, as in natural position it resembles
But a certain indescribable stamp of wilderness
it.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
57
For some cause the Government places great restrictions
on net fishing, thereby considerably augmenting the
price of an article of food, which might be so cheap
and plentiful.
We met to-day some very pleasant Scotch people in
the Jardin Marengo, with whom we fell into conver-
sation. We compared the lovely scenery before us with
that in other parts of the world, which occasioned
some allusions to Devonshire. Finding I was well
acquainted with that county, the lady inquired if
I could give her any news of the 's, mentioning
my own family! Previously unknown to each other
by name, we did not long remain strangers, on dis-
covering that they had been intimate friends of my
youngest sister an agreeable discovery in a strange
land. They are, however, only here for a short time, en
route for a much more extended tour.
We have been obliged to adopt French hours, as most
of the English here have done. The twelve o'clock
breakfast is in fact an early dinner; still, on the whole,
I rather think it gives one a longer day.
58
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
CHAPTER VI.
ALGIERS AS IT IS.
Status of Arab Women-French Justice-Story of an Arab Chief-Heat in
the Town-Description of Algiers as it is-Its Streets-Hotel d'Europe-
Its Gates-Present Safety in Algiers-Theatre-Shops-Carriages-Horses
-Omnibuses-Account of a Moorish Wedding.
Wednesday, Nov. 25th.-Met as usual to-day troops of
Arab women, when in the Jardin Marengo. These poor
veiled creatures-veiled alike in mind and body-
bound in shackles which none but their own sex can
loose, how one mourns over them, and longs to be able
to reach them! But without a knowledge of Arabic, the
hope is futile. The sight of them at almost every step,
recalls Miss Whateley's "Ragged Life in Egypt," with such
added interest. I would we could employ an Arabic-
speaking Bible-woman amongst them. The generality
seem poor, miserable, stunted, frightened, and squalid;
and I am sure, as far as I can glean from the mute
language of looks, that they would gratefully welcome
any such agency to their homes. It is seldom that they
venture to extend their henna-dyed hands for alms, and
when they do so, it is with such timid imploring accents.
Few positions in life, not even excepting American
slavery, can be so utterly wretched as that of the very
poor Arab woman, Amongst the richer Moslems the
degradation of the women is mental and moral. Super-
added to this, amongst the poorer classes the husband
lays upon the shoulders of his wife, every conceivable
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
59
burden. As far as possible, he lives in the most perfect
idleness, as one of the lords of creation. To the lot of
the Arab woman it falls, to till the ground, to reap the
harvest, to grind the corn, to knead the bread. If gar-
ments are wanted, it is she who must weave the cloth
from the fibrous tissues of the aloe and the palm. Does
her master condescend to expose Arab matting and
baskets for sale, it is she who must fabricate the articles.
If he be wealthy enough to own a half-starved quadruped,
it is she who grooms, and feeds, and tends the animal,
saddling him when her lord has need of him. Are pur-
chases to be made, or heavy burdens from the town to
be borne home, it is on her devoted head the weight
must rest, while he does not so much as touch it with
one of his fingers.
There is a baby, or small child, frequently appended
to her person in addition, attached either to the shoulder
or back, unless the arms happen to be empty. And
though it is hers to prepare the meagre fare, it is not
hers to share it with her husband, seasoned with the salt
of love, which would make even a dry morsel savoury.
No, she must stand aloof till his appetite is satisfied,
when she may have the leavings. Nor has she any
solace in maternal love. If her offspring are girls, they
must be reared in all haste to share the mother's drudg-
ery. If boys, ere they reach the age at which they
might requite a mother's tenderness, they become her
superiors and masters, if not tyrants. With them she
may no longer cat, when their years permit them to
share the father's meal. Oh, Christianity, haste to tear
the fetters, and rend the veil from these degraded ones:
no meaner power can save them.
That in the town, the civil arm can in some measure
protect them, is true; but the following tale of recent
60
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
occurrence, will prove the peculiar danger of even legal
interference here between man and wife. It is given on
the authority of M. Cherbonneau, an elegant Arabic
scholar, who heard it from Si-Chadli, a Mussulman of
high legal standing at Constantine.
An Arab chief, of the tribe of the Haracta, between
Aïn-Beïda and Tebessa, had occasion to betake himself
to Constantine on business. He returned home one
morning at carly dawn, before he was expected, and
calling his wife, desired her to bring him four stakes,
and four pieces of rope. This done, he threw his wife
on the ground, fastened her by the cords to the four
stakes, and then, taking a long stick, began dealing heavy
blows on the person of the unfortunate creature. Her
cries of agony and despair awoke the whole tribe. They
rushed to the spot, and tried in vain to arrest the arm of
the savage husband.
66
"But what has your wife done?" they even ventured
to remonstrate. She is the pearl of the tribe. She
is the best of mothers. She is a model for wives. What
are you doing?"
"What has she done?-what has she done?" repeated
the infuriated husband, redoubling his blows: "by Allah,
I am relieving myself-I am binding up my wounds."
When his own strength failed, he subsided into calm-
ness enough to relate the wrongs which he had endured.
On his arrival at Constantine, he had there seen an Arab
woman, relying on French support, bring up her husband
before the cadi to complain of cruelty on his part,
and the cadi had pronounced judgment in her favour!
Monstrous! unheard-of iniquity. So transported with
rage was our chieftain, fresh from the air of the desert,
that, totally forgetting the business which had led him to
Constantine, he set off instantly to avenge, on his poor
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
61
unhappy wife, the affront which had been thus offered to
the lordly sex!
In speaking of the justice now awarded by the au-
thorities, one can only raise a somewhat modified
standard. An Arab, for instance, has been known to
beat his wives to death, and then voluntarily submit
himself to trial. If sufficient cause could be shown,
and just grounds of jealousy established, the murderer
has been let off scot free.
Thursday, Nov. 26th.-Paid visits in the town to-day.
I ought ere this to have given a full description of
Algiers, but the hot air and general closeness in the
place are such, that we keep out of it as much as pos-
sible, and it has only been by slow degrees that we have
attained to some idea of what this once famed city is,
and was. My earliest recollections are connected with a
large picture of Algiers by Luny, a master in sea paint-
ings, representing the bombardment of the place by Lord
Exmouth in 1816. Little would that great naval com-
mander recognise the proud city he then reduced to
obedience in twenty-four hours, by destroying the power
of her navy. The French seem to do all they can to
destroy the Eastern-looking aspect of the place, and
gradually to pull down everything Moorish, around
which Arab reminiscences are entwined. Perhaps it
will be best to bow to the times, and commence with
the modern, leaving the ancient part of the town for
another day.
I have already described our landing, and ascending
a flight of steps through the Place de la Pêcherie,
where the fish market is held, leading to the Place du
Gouvernement. This is the finest square in Algiers, and
the centre of the town. Here a military band plays
every afternoon, when it becomes the favourite resort
62
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
of all loungers. From hence the view of the bay, and
its mountain surroundings, is always lovely, though
not so magnificent as on higher ground. Here may
always be seen in perfection the contrast between
Western, and primitive Eastern manners and customs.
There is a fountain ever flowing in the Place, and orange-
trees around it, ever laden with blossom or fruit. Two
of the principal hotels-that of La Régence and the
Hotel de l'Orient-look into this square, some of the
principal shops being underneath them.
The Place du Gouvernement, which is raised upon
the magazines of naval stores, occupies the former
site of two streets, El-Kissarïa and El-Sebbarhin, and
the Mosque of El Saïda, opposite the Djenina, said to
be a model of beauty. Both streets and mosque, have
long since disappeared. The Djenina, which was
another of those comprehensive palaces, has been more
recently swept away. It was from thence that Ali-
Ben-Ahmed transported himself, and his treasures, by
night to the Casbah, in 1817, for the greater security
of his person.
It was used by the French as a military
encampment up to 1845, and its destruction is con-
sidered a great blow by all who regret the demolition
of historic monuments in Algiers.
The new Boulevard de l'Imperatrice, so called from
Her Majesty having laid the foundation stone on the
occasion of her visit here in 1860, commences from the
Place du Gouvernement. The two principal streets
of Bab-Azzoun and Bab-el-Oued run S.E. and N.W.
of the Place, in a continuous line of about a mile long.
The Rue de la Marine is another large artery, which
bears down upon, and terminates at, this Place. These
three streets are said to be on the precise site of those
which ran through Icosium in the days of the Romans.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
63
Whether the arcades, with which all these streets are
adorned on both sides, are included in this antiquity,
I cannot clearly ascertain. The French contractions
of some of the names of their ancient streets are far
from pleasing to the Arabs. Par exemple, the street
of Aïn-es-Sabath, signifying "Fountain of the Vault,"
is now written up Rue du Sabbat; that of El-Akhdar
is spelt Rue du Locdor; and that of Souk-ed-Djama,
is changed into the Rue Soggémah. Being, too, quite
in the Arab quarter, this gibberish is all the more
painful to Arabic ears polite. However, the English,
who own
a city where the Puritan motto, "God
encompass us," is turned into the "Goat and Compasses,"
perhaps ought not to say much on this point.
The Rue Bab-Azzoun leads into the Place Bresson,
where stands the Hotel d'Europe, which two years ago
ranked as a third-rate establishment, but has since
then been largely patronised by the English, and is
now considered as specially belonging to them. It
is said to be particularly comfortable, and suited to
such as desire to remain there for the winter en pension,
or otherwise. Here too the sea view, stretching out
to Cape Matifou, and bathed as we saw it to-day in
the setting sun, is most beautiful. The ancient fortified
gate of Bab-Azzoun is adorned with iron hooks, upon
which formerly hung, or swung, Christian slaves or
Musselmen convicts, till they expired in agony. It
is well to be shown vestiges of these atrocious practices,
to reconcile one to the Gallic conquest. The Porte
Bab-Azzoun, and the Porte d'Isly, are the two entrances
to the town on this side.
The lower part of the town is completely French ;
the haute ville belongs for the most part to the Arabs.
The streets in the Arab quarter are so steep, that all
64
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
which is brought to, or taken from the houses, has
to be conveyed in panniers on the backs of donkeys;
and so narrow, that it imperils a lady's dress to no
slight extent, to pass a file of these patient creatures
laden with rubbish and dust. These staircase-streets
so intersect one another, as to form a perfect labyrinth
in a stranger's eye.
The Rue Bab-el-Oued terminates in a Place of the
same name, which was formerly a Mussulman cemetery.
The S.E. portion served as a place of sepulture for the
pashas, but where their remains now rest, and whether
we daily tread upon them, are enigmas to me. I
am rather afraid our house is built upon part of the
site. Certainly the Moslem burying-ground that now
is, is just behind us, a description of which must be
reserved to another day. The Place, however, reaches
down to the sea, and on it now stands the Artillery
Barracks, the new Lycée, &c. Beyond this is the Porte
Bab-el-Oued, on the road leading to St. Eugène. This,
and every other entrance gate of the city, is strongly
fortified.
French rule has reduced Algiers, and its environs, to
the most perfect state of tranquillity, and ladies can now
walk about alone, with perfect safety, as in London or
Paris.
There are other streets, and squares I have not named,
such as the Rue d'Isly, in which the English Consulate
is situated, and which leads to the Place d'Isly, a
great place of concourse for the Arabs. Immediately
contiguous is the Arab market-place. The Rue Napoléon
is a large new street, now in course of formation.
Another on a still larger scale, is intended completely
to intersect the Arab quarter, from the Porte Neuve,
at which the French entrance was first effected, and
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
65
coming out immediately above the Jardin Marengo.
This done, I fear the distinctive features of the "Pearl
of the Sea" will be obliterated.
There is a theatre of course; under French occupation
cela va sans dire. Also several other places of amuse-
ment-libraries, museums, French reading-rooms, &c.
There is no English library-a want much felt, and
which we must attempt to remedy. The public build-
ings I have scarcely as yet seen. The shops are fair;
above the average. Boots and shoes, however, had better
be brought from England, or Paris. Carriages, and saddle
horses for hire, are cheap here; good steeds may be had
at five francs for the afternoon, or eight francs for the
whole day. Omnibuses are constantly running between
every part of the town, and not only there, but wherever
there is anything to be seen in the neighbourhood.
Nov. 27th.-Drove to Mustapha Supérieur-the now
favourite resort of the English. It is an environ of
great extent, and owing to the steepness of the ascent,
and the consequent windings of the road, it is quite a
journey when one has to pay a visit in that direction.
Leaving Algiers by the Porte d'Isly, the route lies
between the Agha and the mountain, upon which stands
the Fort de l'Empereur. The zig-zag roads make the
distance appear far greater than it is, though the beauties
which outspread before one at every step, amply com-
pensate for the length of the way. We passed the
country-house of the Duke of Malakoff—that is, of the
Governor-General as such-formerly a villa belonging
to Hussein Dey. The gardens are beautifully kept-
soldiers here acting as gardeners.* Close by is the
* In a late notice of the arrival of the new and energetic Governor-General,
the papers specially state that, on visiting his summer palace, and perceiving
the soldiers thus employed, the Duke of Magenta dismissed them instantly to
their barracks, saying he would have no gardeners but such as were paid by
himself.
F
66
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
once favourite villa of Mustapha Dey, now transformed
into a gendarmerie. The convent of the Sacré-Cœur,
and various other dwellings, most of which were taken
by the English last year, nestle around this spot.
Higher up, near the brow of the hill, are four cross
roads, one of which leads to the Plain of the Metidja,
once the granary of the Romans, and which might
prove equally productive for the French, had they
colonists enough to engage in its tillage. Birkadem,
Birmandreis, and the Ravin de la Femme Sauvage, are
all within an easy ride from this point, where the
Colonne Voirol is reared, bearing on its base an inscrip-
tion to inform the passer-by, that under the direction
of a General Voirol, the indefatigable army made this
road in 1834.
From hence a road, leading to El Biar, passes through
the higher part of Mustapha Supérieur. If the scenery
is lovely from beneath, it is superb from this high ground.
The beautiful blue bay, and the open Mediterranean
beyond; the plain, and the dark frowning background
of the Lesser Atlas which here seems so near, reward one
for the ascent. But when one looks at the immediate
prospect, and towards the city which lies below, one is
ever haunted by the aspect of desolation and barrenness,
which must be seen to be understood. It is not that the
turf does not display a carpet of many-tinted flowers:
it is not that the hedges when you approach them are
niggard in their verdant offerings; that the untrained
African clematis is not more luxuriant than any creeper
that England can boast; it is not that we are insensible
to the beauty of the feathery reed, towering high above
the aloe, and the cactus, or to the picturesque look of the
scattered and half hidden Moorish dwellings, guarded
cach by tall, dark green, stately cypresses. But there is,
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
67
despite all this, a sort of unfinished, uncultivated, wil-
derness-look about the whole place, which makes one
exclaim continually, "If this were but in the hands of
the English!'
دو
That the French do not understand colonization is, I
suppose, an undeniable fact; but more of this anon.
In these semi-Moorish, semi-French dwellings, comfort
is seldom indeed to be found. It is rare to see a house
facing the south, much as this aspect is needed in
winter; and in every house we visit, we hear complaints
as to the internal arrangements. With English comforts,
Algiers, or its vicinity, would be a charming residence for
some ten months out of the twelve. A lady whom we
visited to-day, has taken a house at exactly one half the
rent which we were asked for it one month since. This
looks as if the English are not expected this winter in
any great force.
Nov. 28th.-A lady gave us to-day a description
of a Moorish wedding which she had attended. I had
previously determined, if possible, to be present on some
such occasion; but my ardour has been greatly damped
on finding that this ceremony not only takes place at
night, but involves an attendance throughout the whole
night. Locked doors, and etiquette, combine to prevent
one from leaving as soon as one has had enough of it.
Only recently have Christians been permitted to witness
the strict privacy of these scenes. The French Empress,
when in Algiers, was invited to honour the nuptials of the
late Dey's daughter with her presence, which she did, and
since then, other Frank ladies have been admitted.
On the occasion in question the festivities began about
6 o'clock in the evening. Mrs. and other English
ladies, had chairs placed for them in a corner of the
room, but all the Moorish guests disposed themselves on
68
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
carpets, spread on the floor. Hired dancers first per-
formed their part, followed by Arab vocalists, whose
praises of the bride and bridegroom, in strains alternately
monotonous, and screeching, it was horrible to hear. The
guests were splendidly attired, with an almost fabulous
amount of jewelry. Every arm was laden with bracelets,
and armlets, as high as they could be fastened; every
finger so covered with rings, that the joints could not be
bent; each ancle and leg encased in golden bands, set
with precious stones; and, mirabile dictu, each digit of
the foot ringed likewise with sparkling gems. Each of
the Moorish beauties had on strings of pearls, beginning
with a necklace of seed pearls, and every row increasing
in size, till each pearl was about an inch in length-the
whole reaching down to the waist, and giving the appear-
ance of a breastplate. Diamonds of enormous value
sparkled on the head, and about the dress; and our
informant assured us the tout ensemble threw a drawing-
room at St. James's into the shade.
About 11 o'clock the poor little bride was ushered in,
having that evening left her home for the first time,
during her short existence of nearly eleven years'
duration. A regular little bundle she appeared, having
a white burnous thrown over her person, and a closely
muffled hood entirely veiling her face, over that again.
After being divested of these habiliments by her friends,
and especially by the mother of the bridegroom, who did
the honours, she was laid on a state bed, prepared in the
centre of the room for the occasion, and soon fell fast asleep.
The feast of the evening then commenced. A huge
tray, brought in by attendant negresses, was placed on a
large jar which acted instead of a table. The Moorish
guests, to the number of forty or fifty, sat in a circle
around it, with large scarfs in front of them to act as
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
69
tablecloths and napkins. The first dish being brought
near the Madame Mère of the evening, she plunged in
her fingers and helped herself, each guest following her
example as the tray was gradually moved round.
Couscouss is the great Moorish dish, alike for rich and
poor-a conglomeration of fish, flesh, and fowl, imbedded
in rice; but they are said to excel in most delicious dishes
of pastry, flavoured with various essences. It requires
no small degree of practice, to manipulate each helping
gracefully. A thumb, and the two forefingers of the
right hand, have to carve, dip up the
gravy, and prepare
the meat for mastication, unassisted by the left hand,
which it is supposed is only used by the Evil One.
Chikouka is another favourite entrée-eggs, tomatas,
and capsicums, being all beaten up with oil, and lemon
juice. Fifteen, or sixteen such courses, being disposed of,
the bride was awoke from her slumbers, and allowed to
eat; after which the grand business of the evening-
arranging her for her bridal-commenced.
When a Moorish infant is born, be its hair what it
may, it is invariably dyed red; but when a bride is
married, the colour is changed to black. The first great
affair was dyeing her hair. Process No. 2 was enamelling
the face. It must have been in one of these harems, that
Madame Rachel learnt her art. The poor child having
thus a false face, and dyed hair, colouring the eyebrows
was the next step; and not content with arched brows of
black, which meet in the centre, these must needs go half
down the nose. Daubs of red paint ornament the face.
The items of dress ought to be numerous, for each guest
must adjust some article on the person of the bride, or
she deems herself slighted. But the crowning effort of
ingenuity is expended on the hair-dressing, on which an
extraordinary amount of time, and patience is lavished,
70
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
Countless braids were plaited of the now raven tresses,
all round the head and face; each plait being finished
off with a jewel pendant-and lastly the poor eyelashes
were gummed down, that she might not behold in public
the husband to whom she was about to be united.
The bridegroom, meanwhile, had been entertaining a
select circle of his friends downstairs; none of whom
had invaded the sacred precincts above described. Were
any "lord of creation" to be thus venturesome, he would
never be suffered to leave the room alive, but would be
smothered on the spot; so at least our friend was told,
and firmly believed. I do not myself vouch for it.
The negresses set up a most unearthly shrill scream,
when music announced the approach of the bridegroom.
Instantly every Moslem face was closely veiled, his
mother alone being permitted to look on her son, who
entered, and took his seat beside her. The attendants
then went to fetch the disguised, and disfigured bride,
on whom his eyes rested for the first time. If the
bridegroom sees aught in the lady to which he objects,
he is at liberty to refuse her; but if he does not exer-
cise this privilege, he takes her hand, seating her between.
his mother and himself. Fortunately, he appeared per-
fectly satisfied with the result; for, after rising, and lifting
her veil, he seated her by his side.
This simple ceremony being thus completed, the hus-
band and wife shortly quitted the festive scene for their
own apartment; while the company, released from any
further obligation to veil their faces, continued their
merriment until break of day. Our friend was only too
thankful to be permitted to leave at 5 o'clock in the
morning. The whole of the following week, the bride
was at home,' and devoted each day to the reception of
her friends.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
71
CHAPTER VII.
VARIETIES, ANCIENT AND MODERN.
Shopping-Negroes-Whence they came-Their Emancipation-Their Idola-
trous Sacrifices at Algiers-Their Fêtes-Whitewashing their Employment
-The Spaniards at St. Eugène-Their Eagerness to receive Books-In-
teresting Meeting with a Patriarchal Hebrew-The Jews in Algeria-Their
Past and Present Condition-Story of a Rabbi-Former Degradation of the
Jews-Arab Horses-Port Dues-Green Peas for Dinner-A Wet Day—
Storms-How Sunday is Observed by many English-String of Camels-
Price of an Embroidered Vest-Mr. Churchill's Sketches of Arab Life.
Monday, Nov. 30th.-Shopping, and visiting, in the town,
which, by reason of the close atmosphere, is always a kind
of penance to me. With every feeling of heart and head
enlisted against the Darwinian theory, it certainly strains
one's fraternal sentiments to the uttermost, at all the
corners of the arcades to stumble upon the negresses,
enveloped in their invariable blue check takhelila. If
they would only adopt the Moslem fashion, and hide
their repulsive features, it would save one many a shock.
They are usually to be seen in pairs, squatted on the
ground, or leaning against a pillar, looking very like
monkeys on a large scale, and earning a scanty livelihood
as vendors of bread, broiled fish, &c. &c. These black
merchants come from the Sahara, from Soudan, Gourma,
Timbuctoo, and other parts. Originally brought
Algiers by the caravans, and purchased as slaves by
wealthy Moslems, the Provisional Government, in 1848,
decreed their enfranchisement. Many, however, pre-
ferred remaining in the families of their masters, where
to
72
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
their lot is said to be far from hard. Less than one
hundred in all, availed themselves of the offer of emanci-
pation. The slave-market is still shown near the port,
where, previous to Lord Exmouth's visit, a Christian
male slave could be bought for £30.
The number of the negro population I have failed to
ascertain. It cannot be large, but they are in sufficient
numbers to celebrate their pagan rites and sacrifices.
Some of these, indeed, take place every Wednesday
morning, on the road between Bab-el-Oued, and St.
Eugène. I have been repeatedly invited to witness these
ceremonies, but the early hour is one objection, and
altogether I have not quite made up my mind on the
subject. G. is still too unwell to undertake it. After
all, it does not seem clear whether the sacrifices are
Mahomedan, or pagan, for the negroes are invariably ac-
companied by Moslem women and children, though they
themselves take the chief share in the business.
This seems to be the order of the proceedings. They
assemble in front of the Koubba of Sidi-Yacoub (not the
tomb of the patriarch Israel, but of some other holy
Jacob), close by the sea-shore, at a spot called Seba-
Aïoun, from having once boasted seven fountains. Close
by one of these, a negress lights a chafing dish, and
sprinkles thereupon several grains of incense, or benzoin,
the vapour of which must be inhaled, by the party
desirous of sacrificing. Other negresses then bring for-
ward the fowls to be used in sacrifice, and half strangling
the poor birds, throw them wildly on the sands. If the
fowls in their agony, half rolling, half flying, can gain
the sea, all is right. The Genius invoked is propitious,
and the cure sought, or the wish expressed, is sure to be
attained. If, on the contrary, the chicken die on the
sand, all is a failure, and the only chance lies in a fresh
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
73
invocation. However, the negresses, who certainly are
the only priestesses, or sorceresses, in these sacrifices,
usually know to a nicety, how much garotting the poor
fowls can stand, without actually expiring under it.
This precision is attained in virtue of the high fees
which reward a successful incantation, and which, alas !
are withheld, if the divinity is deaf to their prayers.
Sometimes a sheep is sacrificed; sometimes, but very
rarely, an ox. On these occasions a negro officiates.
The Guezzanates also manufacture the love potions,
which are equally appreciated by the Moorish, and
negro beauties. Apropos of the latter, I hear that really
handsome negresses are imported from Timbuctoo,
whose charms have sometimes made them the fortunate
consorts of Moorish lords. All I can say is, I have seen
none of them.
Not far from our dwelling, the houses of the negro
tribes are to be seen. They are chiefly in the Rues
Darfour, and Kattaroudjil, abutting on the Casbah. The
fêtes par excellence are the Derdebas, which take place
in these localities, when the negresses, laying aside the
takhelila—a blue and white check, very much resembling
an English housemaid's duster on a large scale-come out
in wondrous finery, and dance to the sound of uncon-
scionable music till they fall down exhausted. All this,
however, we are likely to see to greater advantage, if we
fulfil our present intention of going into the interior.
One other great fête, it seems, occurs every year, the
first Wednesday after the month Nissam, when all the
negroes, bond and free, assemble at the Hammah, still on
the strand, close to the Koubba of Sidi-Bellal, now half
buried in the sands. This is in honour of the first ripe
beans, a plant they hold in the highest esteem, but may
not taste until the Feast of the Beans has been held. Poor
74
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creatures! who is to give them light? Little more than
this have I been able to glean of negro history. The
negro men are chiefly employed in whitewashing, a trade
which is here in special request. The negresses are the
only attendants at the Moorish baths for women.
Tuesday, Dec. 1st.--Walked to St. Eugène, where
there appears to be quite a Spanish quarter. When we
offer French books and tracts there, we are usually met
by a request for Spanish ones. To-day, in a house where
we had gone to visit some English workmen, we gave
tracts to one or two Spaniards on entering, and on leaving
found a perfect colony of Spanish women awaiting us,
having turned out from every room in the long passages,
eagerly asking for books. They told us two gentlemen
speaking their language had recently addressed them,
and read from the New Testament, which had greatly
excited the priest's ire.
Returning home, we met a venerable-looking Jew,
who told us he had been in London, and Paris, and
begged us to visit his house on the road to the Frais
Vallon. He was much pleased at being given a small
book in Hebrew. His dress, like that of all the Jews
in Algiers, was somewhat imposing. In pattern, it very
much resembles that of the Moors, but is far less gaudy
in colour. The turban is black, as is also the richly
embroidered vest. A red silk, and military-looking
scarf, engirdles the waist. Shoes, and stockings, are
always worn by the Jews. The trousers, reaching to
the knees, are loose and full.
The Jewish type of face, and figure, is, I
think,
decidedly by far the finest we have seen in Algiers.
This man was a handsome specimen, but not more so
than the general run of his brethren, with whom we
come in daily contact. Dark bright eyes, Jewish cast
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
75
of face, fine, tall, well-proportioned figure, raven hair,
and long beard, usually characterize these children of
the dispersion. He seemed gratified to find we loved
his people. Previous to the French conquest, probably
none would be found on this soil, bold enough to avow
such a sentiment. Now there is an excellent mis-
sionary labouring amongst them, from whom we have
gained much information respecting them. Mr. Lowitz
is received with great respect by them, and is to them
a proof that English Christians at least, love the House
of Israel.
The Jews were only tolerated in Algiers during
Turkish rule, under heavy vexatious restrictions, which
made their existence a burden; and this more for the
sake of commerce, than from any feelings of humanity
towards them. They were likewise the sole bankers
in Algiers, and consequently most necessary to a people
who only lived upon piracy, and required an inter-
mediate order between their own, and that of the lawful
traders of other nations. Under the French Govern-
ment, they are of course admitted to equal privileges
with the rest of their fellow-subjects.
The Algerine Jews have a legend, which they hold
as an article of faith, respecting their settlement on
these shores. They say that on the establishment of
the Moors in Spain, after having overrun the shores
of the Mediterranean with fire and sword, they per-
mitted and encouraged the settlement of the Jews in
Spain, allowing them the free exercise of their religion.
When, however, the Cross supplanted the Crescent in
the Peninsula, the Jews speedily became the objects
of fearful persecution from their most Christian masters,
who sought by every device to despoil them of their
wealth.
76
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
Their chief Rabbi at that time was Ben-Smia, a
very holy man. At length sacrilegious hands were
laid on him, and, together with some of the wealthiest
of his nation, he was thrown into a dungeon. As
they were momentarily expecting to be led to execu-
tion, resigning themselves to their doom, on a sudden
the eyes of the Rabbi Ben-Smia sparkled with fire,
his face became radiant, and light encircled his figure.
Seizing a piece of charcoal which lay on the ground,
he drew upon the wall, the picture of a ship in full
sail. Turning to his weeping companions, who beheld
him with amazement, "Let all," he cried, "who believe
in the might of Jehovah, and desire instant deliverance
from hence, place their finger on this vessel." Forth-
with every believing hand was outstretched; when
marvellous to say, the vessel became a real ship in full
sail, which bore them to this strand. The Moslems
received them with open arms, and accorded to them
all the privileges they had formerly enjoyed in
Spain.
When, however, Turkish rule was engrafted upon the
Arab stock, and Pashas were sent from Constantinople,
the fetters of these unhappy people were riveted; and
they became more truly slaves than in Spain.
To give a few instances of their degradation: when-
ever they passed a mosque, the Jews were obliged to
take their shoes in their hands, and travel barefooted
till out of sight of the spot. In passing the Casbah,
they had to kneel, then with bended heads to fly as
rapidly as possible. They were furnished with a kind
of passport, which might be demanded at any moment,
and the unfortunate one who had left his at home was
bastinadoed without mercy. They were prohibited from
riding on horseback; even a donkey when entering
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
77
the town was forbidden them. They were not allowed
to speak to a Moor, except with profound deference,
and the slightest approach to an insult offered by
a Jew to a Mussulman, was punished with instant
death.
"Friendless and homeless! How unlike the past !
Once honoured scion of a noble stem."
Did all these cruelties recall to their memories, the
cry in which the voices of chief priests, and people
were blended, "His blood be on us and our children"?
I trow not blindness in part is happened to Israel,
until the fulness of the Gentiles be come in.
Dec. 1st.-Yesterday we had a slight shower, and
to-day a heavier one; but till now we have not seen
a drop of rain since the 13th ult. Our hopes of riding
exercise are diminishing. Everywhere we hear that
Arab horses only are to be had, and their pace, however
excellent for a race, is less pleasant for seeing the
country. A gentleman told us to-day of his having hired
a horse, which set off on leaving the town, and with all
his might, he tried in vain to stop the animal, till he
had galloped upwards of three miles.
These horses too have a most disagreeable trick of
biting. Yesterday a poor little Arab groom belonging to
Madame B. was attending to her horse, when the brute
seized the poor boy's lower jaw, and bit it so frightfully
that slight hopes are entertained of his life. A Swedish
man-of-war came in to-day, and salutes have been
thundering in consequence. The great thing wanted
here, is a more extended maritime commerce. Through
a short-sighted policy, no encouragement is given to
foreign trade with Algiers. A heavy tonnage, amounting
to four francs per ton, is levied on all foreign vessels en-
tering this port, and this necessitates a correspondingly
78
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
heavy charge on all articles of foreign importation.
Some efforts are being made to establish a line of
steamers, between Liverpool and Algiers, which would
tend greatly to improve the place.
Green peas for dinner to-day; but more rain is
needed to make them abundant. Went to see the
practice on the artillery-ground. Transporting the guns
on the backs of mules over mountainous districts, was
the order of the day. It was wonderful to see what
these patient creatures could carry, and beautiful to
witness the celerity with which guns, and carriages,
were limbered, unlimbered, and packed for transit.
An Irish lady called this morning before I was up,
in sad distress about her only son, whom she had brought
here on account of pulmonary disease. A stranger in a
foreign land, and feeling desolate beyond expression, it
was with such a sense of relief that she last night saw
my husband's name. It was a real pleasure to try
and be of use to her. Déjeuner with Mr. and Mrs. C.
Afterwards went shopping in one of the Moorish bazaars,
for there are four, where we met Prince Mustapha-a
fine-looking specimen of a Turk.
Dec. 4th.-A thoroughly wet day, but scarcely so cold
as an autumnal day in England. The beautiful bay has
been lashed into fury, and the whole day has made an
incessant roar as it tossed on the beach, avenging itself
for having no tide worth the name. It does, however,
advance and recede a very little, even on the calmest
day. Fed as the Mediterranean is by innumerable
streams-the Nile, the Rhone, the Ebro, the Tiber, &c.
-all emptying themselves into her bosom; with the
Atlantic pouring in through the Straits of Gibraltar, at
the rate of four miles an hour at its western extremity,
and the Black Sea paying exactly the same tribute at
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
79
its eastern boundary, it seems almost incredible that, in
this sea alone, no ebb and flow should be perceptible.
Saturday, Dec. 5th.-The stormy aspect of the sea
has deterred the mail steamer of the "Messagerie
Impériale" from attempting to make the passage to-day ;
but the air is bracing and invigorating, and by no means
cold.
Monday, Dec. 7th.-Yesterday was somewhat cloudy,
and furnished a pretext to only too large a proportion
of the English congregation to absent themselves from
service. This evidence of a general want of appre-
ciation of the means of grace in a foreign land, is sad
to see; for the absence is by no means confined to
invalids, with whom it may perhaps be compulsory.
It is mournful to hear the excuses and reasons alleged
for non-attendance, by those in whom a long continental
residence has uprooted all sense of the holiness of God's
day, and all love for His courts: "The time fixed
interferes with my breakfast hour, otherwise I should
make a point of attending." "The fact is, I always go
to hear the band play on Sunday mornings, and I find
that does me quite as much good as going to church."
"We are truly sorry never yet to have been able to get
to the service, but the truth is, our servants are all
Roman Catholics, and, of course, we cannot interfere
with their going to mass; so we are obliged to arrange
our breakfast hour accordingly, which prevents our
coming to church ourselves." "I live so far in the
country," says another lady, who visits the town almost
every week-day, "that I fear it will be an utter impos-
sibility for me ever to think of getting to church."
"And we," adds a lady in the town, "cannot manage
the hour, ten is so very early; but then I assure you
we always read the service at home." And thus too many
80
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
go their way-one to his farm, another to his merchan-
dise, neglecting, refusing, despising, their short day of
grace!
66
The steamer which left Marseilles on Thursday, has
not yet reached Algiers; but it did not belong to the
Messagerie Impériale," which, be it remembered, is
decidedly the best line of communication. Felt to-day
the great difference between the air in the town, and that
of our own locale. I went down to see a poor invalid,
and spent a couple of hours in going about the place
to render some little assistance, and then felt com-
pletely knocked up. On reaching home, however, the
air was as invigorating, as that in the town had been
depressing.
Wednesday, Dec. 10th.-In passing under the Porte
d'Isly, met a string of camels going out, and on this
occasion each was surmounted by a fine-looking turbaned
Arab, any of whom might have sat for the picture of
a patriarch of old. Nothing surprises one more here,
than the general appearance of both Moors and Arabs.
With everything unfavourable to a fine physical develop-
ment, in their social and domestic habits-their women
kept in the most rigid and listless seclusion; married
frequently at the age of eleven years, and always in
their early teens; the poorer classes suffering from
constant exposure to the night air, and all weathers,
privations arising from want of proper food, and in-
dulging incessantly in the narcotic weed-they yet are,
as a rule, whether poor or rich, a remarkably fine, tall,
robust, handsome race. The married ones spend a
fortune on the dress of the ladies of their harem.
I met yesterday, in the Jardin Marengo, a Jew, carrying
a richly-embroidered vest, with silver thread on red
silk. When I stopped to admire it, he allowed me to
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
81
inspect it, and told me the price was 225 francs, and
that it was a part of the trousseau of a bride elect.
To recur however to the camels. I must say they are
the most picturesque, and remarkable-looking animals,
to be seen in Algiers. Unlike the specimens from which
one's untravelled notions of these creatures are derived,
the dignified appearance, and expressive faces, of such
as we saw to-day, give them a bearing as proud, and
wild, as that of the patriarchal Arabs they bear on their
backs. I cannot fancy a finer study for an artist's
pencil. The consul-general, Mr. Churchill, who draws
beautifully, has done them full justice in several of his
sketches. Few sitters indeed are as patient as they,
for they will remain for hours without moving a muscle
—in this respect evidently imitating their masters,
G
82
A WINTER IN ALGERIA,
CHAPTER VIII.
CHANGES.
Anxiety for Safety of Steamer from Marseilles-Our Femme de Ménage-Her
Age-Amusing Exemption from Fasting-Party at the Consul General's-
Romantic History of a General and his Lady-Drive to the Frais Vallon-
Description of Scenery-Vallée des Consuls-New Church of Notre Dame
d'Afrique-The Boujaréah-Its Beauties-House-hunting again-El-Biar—
Mustapha Supérieur-High Rents of Furnished Houses-Views from El-Biar
-The Fort de l'Empereur, alias Bou-Lila-Rumours respecting the Missing
Steamer Heat in the Town-Rains-The Steamer Lost-No English on
Board-The Arabs' Reason for Change in the Climate-Moonlight-Attrac-
tion to El-Biar-The Moslem Cemetery.
Friday, Dec. 11th.-Heavy tidings! The steamer
which left Marseilles on Thursday, Dec. 4th (the very
day on which, as the paper tells us, a violent storm
burst over London), has not since been heard of, and all
hopes of her having taken refuge on the coast of Spain
seem now given up. God grant these worst fears may
not be realized. We know not yet if any English were
on board. Disappointment respecting expected letters
sits on every face; and one French lady told me that a
wardrobe she had ordered from Paris, of dresses, bonnets,
cloaks, and what not for the season, had all been sent off
by it! G. is decidedly better to-day. The feverish
attack so frequently experienced by new comers seems
taking its departure.
When, upon the sudden illness of her predecessor, our
present femme de ménage was engaged, I asked her age,
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
83
1
which she stated to be forty, and politeness, or noncha-
lance prevented my questioning the fact, except mentally.
To-day, when ordering dinner, I remembered it was Friday,
and asked whether she would eat any meat.
66
Mais, oui, Madame, I cannot get on without meat."
"But I thought you were not allowed to eat meat on
Friday?"
"Yes, 1 go to confession every Thursday and Sunday,
but I always eat meat on Friday, at least bouillon."
"How comes it you are so privileged?"
"Ah, Madame, on account of my age.
work if I did not eat a little meat."
66
I could do no
Your age! why you told me you were only forty."
"Ah," (with the usual whine) "but Madame knows
better. What age should
you take me for?
cr
66
Sixty-five at least."
>>
Ah, no, I am only sixty-two, but when I am bien mise,
no one ever takes me for more than forty!"
So convinced was she that the end justified the means,
that she would not be persuaded that such a misstate-
ment could, under any circumstances be wrong. She is,
however, a good old soul, and very fond of relating
anecdotes to prove that her mother was a servant in the
last royal household. Her ideas in consequence are
aristocratic, and monarchical.
Spent a pleasant evening at our Consul-general's, Mr.
Churchill. We were introduced to General and Madame
Martimprey. The history of the latter is highly romantic.
A Moslem by birth, she was captured in a razzia on the
Moors, when only four or five years old. Her black
eyes so captivated a young French officer, that-
"She was the robber, the captive was he."
He sent her to be educated in Paris, and some fifteen
G 2
84
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
years later, married her. Her captor is now Commandant
Supérieur of the naval and military forces at Algiers. I
had some conversation with Madame M. about the
Moorish ladies, whom she visits here. I asked if it
were true that they were never allowed to leave their
houses, with the solitary exception of quitting the
parental roof for that of their future lords and masters.
She said the strictness of their seclusion did not go to
that extent; that they exchanged visits at each other's
houses, went on pilgrimages, &c. but were always closely
veiled, which indeed applies to all Moslem women without
exception. We frequently see a Moorish lady, judging
by the texture of her veil, followed by her attendant
negress, coming from the mosque.
Saturday, Dec. 12th.-Drove to the Frais Vallon, a
spot which well repays a visit. At no great distance
from the town, close indeed outside the eastern rampart,
the ravine, which widens on reaching the sea, sufficiently
to contain "La Cité Bugeaud" (as this outskirt of the
town is called), suddenly narrows, till it becomes a sharp
cutting between two steep hills. An old Arab pathway,
recently made passable for carriages, by means of terraced
embankments, lies half-way up the left side, of "ce coin
de nature Suisse," as the guide books very justly call it.
A Café Mauresque, and a pretty water-mill, indicate the
spot beyond which no carriages can penetrate. We were
compelled to retrace our steps, and defer all future ex-
plorations till we could make an excursion thither on
foot. The return, facing the sea, and looking down into
the precipitous ravine on our left, with the wild olive,
the dwarf fan-palm, and the carob tree on each side,
struck us greatly.
From thence, passing L'Hôpital du Dey, erected by
the Dey Baba-Hassen, who reigned at the beginning
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
85
of the last century, we came upon the Dra-el-Baroud, or
powder manufactory, only separated from the former
by a pleasure-garden. This latter is a more modern
building, having been completed in 1815, and is now
converted into the French Military Hospital, capable of
holding 5,000 patients.
Through the Vallée des Consuls-so named from the
fact of the consuls of England, France, and the United
States, having formerly fixed their summer residences
here we ascended the steep hill-side, to the new church
of Notre Dame d'Afrique, which is in process of erection
on the most picturesque, and I should think about the
most healthful, spot anywhere in the neighbourhood. The
church is being built, so our driver told us, entirely by
charity; and the workmen, who are giving their services
gratuitously, work at it every Sunday. I asked who it was
had said they were not to work on the Sabbath-day, but
the driver seemed to think the end justified the means.
We learnt afterwards that the large sum required, is
being raised by the strenuous efforts of the Bishop of
Algiers, whose summer residence, "Le petit Séminaire,"
is at a still higher altitude, but this ascending ridge we
left for another day. The wild olive still overhung our
pathway down, and as we examined its small, black berries,
fit food only for the birds of the air, we could not but
recall Rom. xi. 17-24, and long to be able to do some
good to the numbers of the House of Israel whom we
daily meet, and to hasten the time when they shall again
be grafted into their own good Olive Tree.
The conformation of the Bouzariah is certainly very
striking; its steep and rugged slopes, broken by dark
ravines, with the cactus, the aloe, the juniper, and
the olive, dotted about in various hues of the green
which here never seems to assume winter's browu
86
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
mantle; its winding and terraced walks, catching a
fresh point of beauty at every turn; while romantic-
looking villas, with exteriors of dazzling whiteness, and
embosomed in trees, are perched on apparently inacces-
sible heights, on its precipitous sides.
We passed the desolate spot where lie buried Israel's
dead, the only indication of the place of interment, in
each case, being a peculiar-shaped, oblong, white stone,
sloped to a ridge in the centre, and bearing a Hebrew
inscription on each of its slanting sides. Over against it,
is the Moslem burying-ground, the boundaries of which
have been immensely curtailed by recent enactments.
Scarlet geraniums, and the ever-present aloe, form its
chief floral adornments; and the hand of superstitious,
but loving ignorance, has placed two or more flowerpot-
like vases, in a framework of slate, at the head and foot
of each grave, to hold water, which the departed spirit is
supposed to come and drink. The disappearance of the
water, and of an accompanying piece of bread, is proof
positive to their simple minds that the deceased has par-
taken of, and enjoyed his meal. And beneath us, as we
ascended the hill-side, between our route, and that to St.
Eugène, lay the Roman Catholic Cemetery, not so well
kept as ours usually are in England, but furnishing a
contrast to the two former, with its dark green cypress
beside each grave, and the ceaseless ripple of the blue
waters almost laving its borders.
Thursday, Dec. 15th.-An exploring tour to El Biar
and Mustapha Supérieur, to see what houses, and apart-
ments were vacant. We are anxious, on sanitary grounds,
to get still farther from Algiers. The air on this higher
ground is far more bracing than in the town, and if the
houses were but built after an English fashion, they
would be very tempting. As it is, the one great aim is
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
87
to exclude heat, and to admit every breeze, which renders
them only fit for summer residences. Their owners
betake themselves to Algiers during the winter, and
usually transport their furniture also, leaving empty
houses, which they are now glad to let at about 100
francs a month. The furnished ones range from 250 to
1,000. Two months ago, for the latter, the modest sum
of 1,800 was being asked, but as the English are appa-
rently not coming this year, the terms are being lowered.
Here, as elsewhere, the common difficulty of meeting all
one's requirements was so great, that after a five hours'
drive, we returned no wiser than we went.
Dec. 16th.-Another lovely day. In the town it
frequently feels oppressive, and we make but little way
in attempting to walk about. The incessant passing to
and fro of dirty Arabs under the narrow arcades, which
grace both sides of the principal streets, such as the
Rues Bab Azzoun, and Bab-el-Oued, makes the confined
air close and disagreeable. Once on the hills, the
exhilarating atmosphere, and the beauty of the ever
visible mountain scenery, stimulate one to exertion, and
we walked out to a distance of between five and six
kilometres-a kilometre being five-eighths of a mile. The
site which commands perhaps the most extensive view
anywhere to be obtained, is that of the summer residence
of the Italian Consul at El Biar. The house adjoining it,
is equally well situated. No words can paint the beauty
of the distant colouring of the hills: the Plain of the
Metidja; Cape Matifou, bathed in the warm glow of the
setting sun, jutting out into the sea, with the deep blue
waters forming a frame on three sides; snow wreaths and
mists on some of the peaks of the Atlas, with others of
the same range dipped in sunbeams; all seemed like
enchantment.
88
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
The stern Fort de l'Empereur which we had passed in
the morning, and under which we were now returning,
could not dispel the illusion, which was heightened by a
peculiar and almost indescribable mist, which seemed to
overhang the Mediterranean, like a veil of finest texture.
This fort is situated on the highest point of the fortifica-
tions which surround Algiers, 146 feet above the upper
part of the Casbah. Various accounts are given for the
origin of its name, but the reliable one appears to be that
it was built by Hassan Pasha in 1545, to commemorate
the departure of Charles V. from this spot, which his
practised eye had selected for his camp, and whereon he
had established his artillery. The Arabs, who, like most
Easterns, have some reason for every appellative they
bestow, call it also Bou-Lila, or Father of Night, because
it was during one night in October, 1541, that the
Emperor suddenly took up this position, from which he
was subsequently compelled to beat so disastrous a
How many a tale could those walls unfold!
The ramparts have been restored by the French, and the
fort is now used for barracks, and as a disciplinary military
prison, through which all offending officers must pass,
before being permitted to rejoin their regiments in
Algeria. The sides of the Mamelon, on which it stands,
are regularly planted with young fir-trees, which have
a unique effect.
retreat.
Dec. 17th.-Most contradictory rumours afloat regard-
ing the missing steamer, proving how difficult it is, even
on the spot, to get an accurate statement of facts. This
morning we were assured that a frigate saw her go
down out at sea, and that all hands had perished.
Later we heard that she had been wrecked on the coast
of Spain, and all hands saved. I fear the truth is that no
news whatsoever has been received, and these fables are
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89
invented to soothe the many aching hearts, which are
yearning for tidings, in agonizing suspense. One gentle-
man here, had a wife, and three children, on board. The
crew numbered sixty, and they had many passengers; all,
it is feared, have found a watery grave.
Went to pay some visits in the town, and, as usual,
found a difference in the atmosphere, which was close and
enervating. The temperature must greatly differ from
that above the city, for while we have had fires every
morning and evening, Sir A. D assured us to-day
D—-
they had never yet required one. G. took a ride to-day
on a beautiful Arab steed, and found him manageable ;
so I hope soon to make a similar experiment.
Dec. 18th. The rains again. It is, however, quite a
treat to have a wet day to write one's letters, untempted
by the genial sky and bright sunshine which almost daily
allure one from one's desk. A gentleman who came up
this morning to call, had just visited the office of the
steam-packets, to which the unfortunate vessel belonged,
hoping to ascertain whether any English were on board.
To his surprise, and indignation, he found that they had
received full and true particulars of every article of
merchandise with which she was freighted, but that of
the fifty or sixty passengers, not a name had been given!
Dec. 22nd. The list of passengers has at length
arrived. One British subject, a Maltese, is reported,
but no English, thank God! are amongst them. It
seems the unfortunate boat was heavily laden with iron,
to which they attribute its loss in the late terrible gale.
Mr. C. who has repeatedly made the passage, told us
that the boats, even of the Messagéries Impériales, are by
no means first-class, their machinery being very inferior.
Alternate rain, and sunshine, this past week. The latter
has predominated; nevertheless, the residents are begin-
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ning to write this down as a bad winter. The Arabs
account for it, by saying the seasons have altogether
deteriorated, ever since the French occupation! However,
it is a winter which would satisfy us well in England,
and decidedly finer than last summer was in Derbyshire.
The beautiful leaves of the caoutchouc, or india-rubber
tree, of the Bell Ombra, and very many others, look as
green, and fresh as in spring. Orchards of leafless
mulberries, or almond trees, are now and then discover-
able in the background, but in the gardens all one wants
is more flowers. These latter are just lingering on, as
in autumn they would with us. The purple iris is still
blooming in the fields, the scarlet geranium peeping
timidly through the hedges, and the heliotrope, and the
pale tea-rose, only faintly shedding their perfumes on the
breeze.
Dec. 23rd. If aught were needed, in addition to the
sights by day, to remind one of being in a foreign clime,
the moonbeams would suffice. The orb of night certainly
shines here with a lustre unknown in Europe, and this
evening the peculiar whiteness which it casts on all
objects, far and near, gives a light almost unnatural.
Such a full moon ! It is almost worth crossing the
Mediterranean to see its brilliancy.
Here we have, as Tennyson says—
"Larger constellations burning, mellow moons, and happy skies,
Breadths of tropic shade, and palms in clusters, knots of Paradise."
At least the heavenly brilliancy is unmistakable, though
the clusters of palm-trees may be less visible.
Went again to-day to El Biar. Saw the summer
residence of the Italian Consul, formerly the abode of
some Turkish or Moorish grandee, of wealth sufficient
to have his harem in a separate house, connected only by
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91
a courtyard of tesselated pavement. Making hold to
walk up through the grounds, we found that this latter-
the house of the women-was to let. The site is the one
of all others we should like; the view magnificent;
the air sensibly pure and bracing; the distance from the
town between five and six kilometres. Altogether, we
have a great idea of taking it, when our present term of
three months expires.
Dec. 24th.-G. is very unwell, and we have some
doubts as to whether the site of the ancient Mussulman
Cemetery, is the healthiest we could have chosen. All
traces of the graves have long since disappeared, by what
means deponent sayeth not. All that is now left for the
last resting-place of the Arab dead, is a small spot of
ground far up the hill, which we visited to-day.
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CHAPTER IX.
CLIMATE.
Christmas-Day in Algiers-Our Substitute for Holly-The Protestant Con-
sistory and English Service at the Temple-English Congregation Dis-
persed-More Camels-A Rabbi's Mausoleum --- French Cemetery-
Le Petit Séminaire-English Library Arrived from England-Visited
the Château D'Hydra-Sudden Change of Atmosphere at Sunset-New
Year Ushered in by Loud Reports of Cannon-The Jour de l'An Fêtes--
Observed by all Classes-Visit to the Mosque Djama Abd-er-Rhaman-et
Tçalbi-Witnessed the Service-Proposed Destruction of the Mosque-A
Fall of Snow-Snow Mistaken for Manna-The Winter Season—Algeria
Compared with India-Nice-Madeira-San Remo-Freedom from Fogs
in Algiers-For what Patients the Climate is suited.
CHRISTMAS Day in Algiers! How our thoughts revert
to the many happy firesides in England, around which
our loved ones are grouped! There is little here but
the pleasures of memory, to remind one that this is
Christmas Day. A mild drizzling rain is all that the
weather can get up in honour of the day. Under the
Arcade, in the Place du Gouvernement, a woman was
shelling young green peas as we returned from Church,
and the pretty garden aloe (not the gigantic specimen
which throws up a huge stem covered with flowers, ten
or fifteen feet high, and then dies, exhausted with the
effort, but a small one with a sort of prickly sword leaf)
is bursting into long stems of red and yellow blossom;
the ice-plant in the open air, is exhibiting the only de-
scription of congealed water, we are likely to see this
year; the bigonia is hanging out its cluster of scarlet
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93
flowers, the trees are as bright and green as though it
were Midsummer Day, and the air is vocal with the
warbling of birds.
Holly and ivy are not always attainable, but thanks
to the kind assistance of an English gentleman, we are
festooned in green, the large leaves of the sarsaparilla
giving a very fair representation of ivy, the berries of
the same doing duty for those of the holly; the ex-
quisite creeper, African clematis, with its white flowers,
and peculiarly pretty leaves, garlanding the whole.
In the Church not an iota of green was permitted;
but with this, which is regarded as a matter of con-
science, the English must not of course interfere.
We were somewhat unfortunate in our Christmas Day
service. A young German, whose friends were rich
Jews, having lately died of fever, his friends had his
body embalmed, and gave notice to the president of the
Protestant Consistory that they wished his remains to
be brought into the Temple, previous to interment. This
is a most unusual proceeding; however, it was complied
with, and Christmas Eve was appointed for the cere-
mony. Late that afternoon, the Consul received a note
from the President, to say the funeral had been deferred
to the following morning, and an hour fixed which would
interfere with the English Service! This notice being too
brief to allow much notification thereof to the English
generally, the congregation-and an unusually large one
in honour of the day-assembled only to be dispersed.
The service was postponed to half-past 1 P.M., at which
hour we made a second attempt; the mild rain mean-
while had settled into a steady downpour, and the
attendance was at first composed of two Frenchwomen,
one Englishman, and ourselves. Three more gentlemen
came in afterwards, but altogether it was a wretched
94
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
Christmas Day, in a foreign land. It seems probable that
it
may
lead to an English Church being built here, which
is greatly needed, and if so, it will all have been over-
ruled for good.
Dec. 28th.-Encountered more camels coming into the
town, weary and heavy-ladened, led by the nose by low-
caste Arabs. Such a contrast to the dignified-looking
stalwart animals, ridden by stately patriarchs, which I
lately saw going out of the same gate. Sad types of
humanity, I thought them, for I am sure these poor
brutes, like ourselves, know the influence of mind over
matter, and are conscious what it is for the physique to
yield to the morale.
We had a charming walk to St. Eugène. A large
square piece of masonry, which we pass on our right
immediately on quitting the town by the gate Bab-el-
oued, had failed to attract us till now, when it was
pointed out to us as a mausoleum, erected by the Israel-
itish community in Algiers, to the memory of one of its
great rabbis. Not far from here is the Christian ceme-
tery; Protestants wishing to bury their friends therein,
should make sure of their title to the spot of ground
which they purchase. We know of instances where an
after-attempt has been made to remove the body, and
with difficulty prevented.
After passing the French cemetery, we looked at the
"Le Fort des Anglais," which overhangs the cliff; and a
mile farther on, ascended the steep hill-side covered with
the tiny oak, cistus and fan palms, till we gained the
road leading to "Le petit Séminaire," parts of which
almost deserved the title of a Devonshire lane. Ripe
blackberries were hanging from the hedges; and ivy,
with larger leaves than its Irish cousin can boast, rewarded
our search. The petit séminaire, on which we bestowed
A. WINTER IN ALGERIA.
95
a glance, is the residence of the bishop of Algiers; but
it is also devoted, as its name imports, to the reception
of youth, and 120 boys are now there under priestly
training. We were surprised at learning that a large
number of "Sisters" lived under the same roof, and
looked after the comforts of the inmates. The view
from Notre Dame d'Afrique is certainly beautiful, though
I give the preference in every respect to the El-Biar side
of Algiers. From the ramparts looking across the ravine,
on the Vallée des Consuls, we had seen, the other day,
apparent hoar-frost lying in large patches. We had no
glass, but to the naked eye it appeared unmistakable.
However, to-day, a nearer inspection showed our frost,
to be patches of the miel, or candy-tuft, which is abun-
dant here.
The "Fort des Vingt-Quatre Heures," is gradually
disappearing under the pickaxe of the sappers and
miners, to enlarge the artillery parade-ground on which
it now stands. It is said to derive its name, and to us
its chief interest, from the fact of its having been seized
by Lord Exmouth, and held till such time as the Dey
would accede to his terms. The Serene mind having
been somewhat hurried in its decision in consequence,
the fort had only to be held for twenty-four hours.
It stands at the foot of the Jardin Marengo, below our
present abode, so the work of demolition daily meets.
our gaze.
Dec. 31st. The last day of 1863. We have just
received from England the box of books, destined to
form the nucleus of a library for the use of the English.
The Religious Tract Society have kindly made a grant,
in compliance with G's request, and on his departure, it
is to be left in the hands of the consul. A good library
was sadly wanted here, where the English visitors are
96
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(6
usually reduced to novels. 'What else can we get ?
is the too frequent reply to any remarks on the unsatis-
fying, if not poisonous tendency, of such literature.
Visited to-day the Château d'Hydra, formerly a
favourite residence of the Dey's. In its days of splen-
dour, it must have been a luxurious summer abode.
It is quite necessary to make this last reservation, for
an open court is a sine qua non in every Moorish palace,
into which every room without exception opens, whether
on the ground floor, or on a gallery running round the
court supported on arches, where fountains are playing
in the centre. This château, as it is now called, from
having passed into the hands of a Frenchman, is situated
on a high mamelon of the Sahel. It might with equal
propriety, be called the Temple of the Winds, and at
4 P.M. we found it bitterly cold. It is, however, well
worth a visit, being beautifully inlaid with marble, and
porcelain, in mosaics. The distance from the town is
about four miles. I managed to take a severe chill on
our homeward drive.
From half-past 3 to 5 P.M. the change in the tempe-
rature is very sensibly felt in this climate, the dew
falling at sunset almost like fine rain. Yesterday an
English lady, who also was out driving till 5 o'clock,
took so serious a cold that the French doctors resorted to
bleeding, and she is now lying at death's door. What
untold mercies, and deliverances, have not we experi-
enced during the year now so soon to be numbered with
the past!
Jan. 1st, 1864.-Hardly had the midnight hour told
of our entrance upon a new year, when a crash, as of
thunder, burst over the house, followed shortly by several
more reports. We thought it strange that there was no
lightning, and as the wind rose violently about the same
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97
time and shook the house, it seemed like some strange
convulsion of the elements. Then we mentally resolved
it into a feu de joie of the troops, at the in-coming of their
great jour de l'an. It gave one, nevertheless, a sort of
feeling such as I should imagine the former possessors of
the place must have had, when Algiers was bombarded.
To-day we are told that the occasion of that hour's dis-
turbance, was an unfriendly encounter between a Con-
federate and a Federal steamer.
This wonderful jour de l'an! We have nothing in
England that altogether answers to it. The good old
custom of giving Christmas-boxes, bears some affinity to
their étrennes, which are exchanged on all sides to-day.
A little girl I scarcely ever saw, has sent me some bon-
bons, and I must, of course, give her a present in return ;
the postman came to bring us an almanack, and had he
not received a douceur, when we should in future get our
letters, no mortal man can tell. Our servants must not
only have their étrennes, but the day to themselves, to
go round to every lady who ever employed, or spoke to
them, to "souhaiter la bonne année," and to receive
cadeaux in return. They themselves have to lay out, I
know not how many sous, to treat their personal friends,
who otherwise would cut them for ever.
Every Frenchman, or Frenchwoman, who cannot also
personally wipe off every name on their visiting-list, and
every English resident also who wishes to be strictly in
etiquette, must at least send round their visiting-cards,
or they forfeit the friendship of those they have thus
neglected. The first two cards arrived as soon as I was
up, and I was fortunately just in time to give an étrenne
to the bearer. Bon-bons, if not presents of larger value,
must be exchanged on all these occasions, or the delin-
quent is never forgiven. Photographs, &c. have reached
H
98
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
me per post, but beyond all in value, two books from
home, one headed with a pink threepenny postage stamp,
which puzzles us, as something quite new since we left
England.
;
We penetrated to-day into the interior of the Mosque
'Djamer Abd-er-Rhaman-et-Tcalbi," which abuts upon
the Jardin Marengo, just as full choral service was going
on. I call it this out of courtesy, but the strange in-
toning of passages from the Koran, was very unlike any
other description of chanting. Some demur was at first
made to our entering without laying aside our shoes
but this obstacle was overcome by providing us with
slippers. Our guide then introduced us into the assembly,
where sat about forty Mahomedans, each squatted on his
mat. The recitation was led in great style by a hand-
some old mufti, who was supported by elders on each side
of him. Facing him was a row of young Mussulmen,
with snowy white burnous, and new red turbans, who
imitated his every sound and movement, swaying them-
selves to and fro as the cadences rose and fell.
I felt almost as indignant as the Arabs themselves, on
hearing that this mosque, the most ancient in Algiers,
barring the Grand Mosque, and boasting, I fancy, the
most elegant minaret in the place, is about to be de-
stroyed, because it interferes with the line of a new
French road, to be constructed through the heart of
the Arab town. It is to commence at the Porte Neuve,
and come out at the Jardin Marengo. Why it cannot
pass just behind this beautiful little mosque, it is im-
possible to say.
From thence our guide took us to the adjacent burying-
place of pashas, high functionaries, and others, entombed
under the low arches of the building, and who had, I
conclude, died in the odour of sanctity; but he could
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
99
not speak a word of French, nor we of Arabic, so our
communications were confined to signs.
The court,
where the worshippers performed their ablutions at a
white marble fountain, was next shown, and then we
emerged into the outer air, sorrowing that we were
unable to say one word for the Master who has thus
been robbed of His honour, and glory, by the arch-im-
postor Mahomet.
Little half-naked Arab children ran after us, extending
their hands, as usual, for alms. I happened to have some
raisins, which I dropped into their mouths; but the
screams which arose from the mothers, who were lying
about on the graves, soon convinced both the little
Moslems, and myself, that we had somehow transgressed.
Infidel money, however, is never refused, though infidel
lollipops would, I gather from this, destroy their
faith.
Jan. 2d. The high winds and stormy weather of the
past week have committed great havoc in the gardens.
Sere leaves from such trees as are not evergreens, are
strewing the ground; and the flowers are beginning to
look very autumnal and withered. Even the Pointsetta
has cast its coronal of scarlet leaves; but the green of
the mimosa is as bright as ever, and its silky yellow
tufts are welcome amidst the floral wreck.
Jan. 4th.-Yesterday (Sunday) was very cold, despite
the absence of rain; so the dictum of our landlady,
"La pluie c'est le froid," was proved to be incorrect.
Indeed, the difficulty of ever ascertaining the truth here
is very great. A day or two since, the month being
ended, and the time arrived at which she had assured
me we should have a show of flowers bursting out, I
questioned the gardener on the subject, who naturally
smiled, and said we should have no fresh flowers for two
H 2
Uor M
100
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months yet to come. To-day we have had a fall of
snow, ushered in by a morning of cold as intense as
that which would prelude the same in England. An
excursion planned to Dely-Ibrahim, to visit the Protestant
Orphan Asylum, has been postponed in consequence.
A lady told me that her servant, having never seen
snow before, ran out to catch it, thinking manna was
being rained down from heaven! The idea, to my mind,
was as lovely as it was simple.
By the beginning of January, we were always led to
expect beautiful weather, to be henceforth undisturbed,
save by cold winds in March. Now, a French gentleman
resident here, assures us that winter does not begin till
the middle of January, and is considered pretty well
over by the 15th of March. Amidst all this conflicting
evidence, I must keep a still more rigid register of the
weather as we find it, for the sake of all inquiring friends.
Meanwhile, according to our present ideas, I should be
sorry to see any invalids far gone in consumption, out
here, and this seems to be the general opinion of all
disinterested people on the spot, who are qualified to
judge. Certainly we have sunshine almost daily, but it
is only really warm now from 9 A.M. to 3 P.M. and for
cighteen hours out of the twenty-four, it is often ex-
tremely cold. Then, on the other hand, where is it
warm, during the early morning hours, about Christmas?
Russell, writing from India, as early as December 10th,
says, "Very cold and chill ere the sun rises" and again,
under date December 26th, he writes, "At 6.15 the column
was on its way northward to seek the enemy. It was
exceedingly raw and cold, a thick fog obscured the face
of the country:
""
January 5th.-A bright, cold, and frosty-feeling day.
Paid several visits, and compared notes with visitors who
Maou
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101
had tried Nice, Madeira, and other places. Mrs. H.
had been at San Remo one winter, where she found
it impossible to remain. At Nice, the doctor told her
friends it was but a question of time, and that she must
never again return to England. Since then, she has
resided for three winters at Algiers, and is able to return
not only to England, but to Scotland, every summer. She
speaks in raptures of this place. One unquestionable
advantage consists in the freedom from fogs which we
enjoy here. Occasionally, though but rarely, they may
be seen lowering over the distant plain, but here they
have never made their appearance.
After weighing conflicting evidence, the conclusion we
have arrived at is this-that, for people in an early and
curative state of lung disease, Algiers may be, and often
is, most beneficial. That if cure has begun, this climate
is most favourable. If, on the contrary, the second or
third stage of consumption has set in, disease is ripened
here with fearful rapidity. One instance, which a friend
mentioned to-day as having happened last year, impresses
this fearfully on the mind. A young man came out to
Algiers, with pulmonary disease far advanced, and having
been introduced to her, she was entreated by his friends.
to watch over him. She did so, and saw the fatal hectic
flush rapidly gaining ground. Ere long, she wrote to his
father in England, urging his removal to another climate.
His father came, but the bright flush of fever spoke to
him only of returning health, and he left again in hopes
of a cure. My friend had frequently entreated this
gentleman to have a man-servant, which he always
assured her was a needless appendage. One day she
met him out walking, and again expressing her wish,
said she had one in view for him. He consented to see
him, and engaged him. This was at 3 P.M. and: she
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left him in his usual health. Before 3 P.M. on the
following day, the grave had actually closed over that
young man! He had broken a blood vessel the same
evening, and had instantly expired.
expired. His new servant
only was present.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
103
CHAPTER X.
ENLARGING IDEAS.
January 6-A Lovely Spring Day-Difficulties in arriving at the Truth-A
Moorish Funeral-The Arab Game of Yadacé-Story of Hassan losing
Two of his Wives by playing at Yadacé with a Third-Purity of the Air
on the Hills-Spanish Workpeople-Ignorance of French Soldiers-Tract
and Scripture Distribution welcomed-Took a Campagne for Four Months
-Its Salubrity-Goats feeding on Aloes-Contrast between a Winter
in England and Algeria-Visited the Jardin d'Essai-Splendid View of
the City-Description of the Garden-Its Size-Use-Plants.
January 6th.-The loveliest of spring days, with a warm
south wind. An early visitor, in the person of a resident,
congratulates us on the possible termination of winter!
Our servant, who has lived here twenty-five years, assures
us that we shall have no winter more severe than that
we experienced yesterday, and unless we have an unusual
amount of rain, the winter will be over by the end of
January. Enough, all this, to show how difficult it is,
even on the spot, to glean certain intelligence respecting
a place. I except, of course, all such geniuses as the
author of "Wanderings in West Africa, from Liverpool
to Fernando Po," who after a single day at Madeira and
Teneriffe, and three days at Freetown, Sierra Leone, con-
siders himself thoroughly fitted and qualified to write full,
true, and particular accounts of each place.
A monotonous chant attracted me to the window this
morning, when I saw a Moorish funeral procession
winding its way, of course on foot, along the hill-side.
The mourners took their turns as pall-bearers, or rather,
104
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
I fancy, the passers-by were pressed into the service, but
the procession never arrested its progress in consequence,
nor did the dolorous chanting cease for a single moment.
On ascending the hill this morning, groups of zouaves,
the sepoys of the French army, were lying as usual, in
circles, engaged in their all-absorbing amusement of gam-
bling. This pursuit, which seems to be a deep-rooted
passion, taking possession of idlers in every clime, and
of every race, is said to be in-bred in the Arabs. Every
Café Maure-and with these the streets abound-is filled
with groups of Arabs, or Moors, whose sole amuse-
ment, when not sipping their coffee, is in play. The
game said to be most in repute amongst them, is a most
extraordinary, not to say a most senseless one, called
yadacé. The following account of it, given by Mr. Black-
burn, will, I think, bear me out in both these assertions.
"YADACÉ."
"The game is of the utmost simplicity, and consists
solely in abstaining from receiving anything whatsoever
from the person with whom you play. In order to ratify
the convention, which is established between the parties at
the commencement of the game, each player takes by the
end a piece of straw, a slip of paper, or even, it may be,
a blade of grass, which is broken or torn in two pieces
between them, the sacramental formula, 'Yadacé,' being
pronounced at the same time. After this, the law of the
game is in full force-that is to say, the opposing parties
are at full liberty to cheat, swindle, deceive, and take
advantage of, each other, at the earliest opportunity. If
a European takes part in the game, he is sure to be
quickly beaten; but with two Moors, or Jews, or Moorish
ladies, a struggle of mutual astuteness, caution, and circum-
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
105
spection, begins, which is prolonged for days, weeks
months, and, in many cases, years.
The following story will suffice to initiate any one
into the mysteries and peculiarities of the game; and also
show the danger to a Moor of playing at 'Yadacé' with
his wife:-
66
Hassan-el-Djeninah was vizier, and chief favourite to
the Pasha of the Oudjah of Constantine. He was the
fattest man in the pashalic; and, more than that, was
reckoned the most jealous husband in all Barbary; and
it is something to be considered jealous, in a land where
all husbands are notoriously so.
"Gay young Mussulmans trembled as they saw Has-
san-el-Djeninah waddle across the great square of Con-
stantine, or issue from the barber's shops. He walked
slowly, for his breath was short; but his yataghan was
long, and he could use it. Hassan had four wives-a
very moderate, and respectable number for a Moor. The
name of the youngest was Leila Khanoum. Now, if
Hassan-el-Djeninah was jealous of his wives, they, you
may be sure, were jealous of each other; save poor little
Leila, who was only sixteen, and not at all of a jealous
disposition; but between the envy of her sister-wives,
who hated her, and the unceasing watchfulness of her
husband, who loved her with most inconvenient fondness,
she led a terrible life of it. Leila Khanoum was Hassan's
favourite wife. He would suffer her, but no one else, to
fill his pipe, to adjust the jewelled mouth-piece to his lips,
and to tickle the soles of his august feet, when he wished
to be lulled to sleep. He would loll for hours on the
cushions of his divan, listening while she sang monotonous
love-songs-rocking herself to and fro the while, and
accompanying herself upon a guitar, in the manner of
Moorish ladies. He gave her rich suits of brocade and
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cloth of gold; he gave her a white donkey from Spain to
ride on; he gave her jewels, scented tobacco to smoke,
henna for her eyelids and finger-nails-in short, he paid
her every little delicate attention that he could think of;
and, finally, he condescended to play with her for a
princely stake—nothing less than the repudiation of the
other three wives, and the settlement of all his treasures.
upon her-at yadacé.
"At the same time, as I said before, he was terribly
jealous of her-watched her day and night. He kept
spies about her, bribed her attendants, came home at day-
break after a night of watching, silent and unobserved.
He studied the language of flowers (which, in the East, is
rather more nervous and forcible than with us); finally,
he took a lodging on the opposite side of the street, that
he might sit and watch who went in or out of his house,
when he was supposed to be far away.
This was
"One day, while employed in this dignified pursuit, he
saw his wife's female negro slave emerge from his house,
look round cautiously, and beckon with her hand. Then
from a dark passage, a figure habited as a Frank followed
the slave into the house, and shut the door.
quite enough. Up jumped Hassan, rushed across the
street, and into his wife's apartment, where the beautiful
Leila was in the act of bending over a large chest that
stood upon the ground. Hassan-el-Djeninah saw the
state of affairs in an instant. The Giaour must be in
the chest! He knocked over the wretched black slave
like a ninepin, rushed to the chest, and tried to raise
the lid.
"The key, woman! the key!' he cried.
66 6
My lord, I have it not. It is lost; it is gone to be
mended.'
"Hassan was not a man to be trifled with; the trembling

A MOORISH LADY IN WALKING COSTUME,
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
107
Leila knew it, and soon handed him the key. He
rushed to the chest, and tore open the lid.
There
was certainly some one inside, habited as a Giaour;
but beneath the Frank habit were discovered the face
and form of Sulee, Leila Khanoum's favourite Georgian
slave!
"What-what means this?' asked Hassan, looking
very foolish.
(
"Yadacé! O my lord; for you took the key!'
"Yadacé!' repeated the Georgian slave.
"Yadacé!' screamed the negress, with a horrible
grin.
"Allah akbar!' exclaimed the vanquished Hassan;
Allah akbar! I've lost my wives!
The indoor, and outdoor toilette, of these jewelled
beauties, differs considerably, and a photograph of the
former would be unattainable, and against all ideas of
decorum. I have just obtained one of a Moresque in
walking costume, which is true to the life. The material
of the snowy white cloak, and the ample trousers, can
alone distinguish, in the slightest degree, the rank of the
wearer.
Jan. 7th.-Called on Mr. Elmore, and from thence to
El-Biar. One must be a pedestrian here, to find out the
beauty of the neighbourhood. The ravines and goat-
paths lead to peeps of scenery, which the artist may well
envy. Altogether, we have to-day determined on taking
a campagne, as the country houses are called, at El-Biar,
and establishing ourselves there, despite any fears of cold.
The air is so much purer for those who are strong enough
to stand it, that it is a complete change from Algiers,
and its immediate vicinity.
Jan. 8th.-Went to find out some English workpeople
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at St. Eugène, and, in so doing, again came across a
number of Spaniards, with whom one house we entered,
was almost filled. On offering them French tracts, they
asked at once for Spanish, of which, unfortunately, I
had but one. They preferred French to going without
any. One of the most unlikely-looking recipients, waylaid
us on going out, to say, "You will come again soon,
madame, will you not, and bring us some Spanish
tracts?" There is here an open door, would that there
were more to enter in! No let or hindrance to the
distribution of tracts, and portions of the Scripture exists,
save in the ignorance which precludes so many from
reading them, and rarely, if ever, are they refused. Some-
times some of the more respectable recipients ask if there
is "anything to pay?"
We are often surprised at the number of French
soldiers who are unable to read, one and all of whom
seem to regret it, but say it is trop tard. One soldier
told us, in answer to our inquiries, that there was a night
school to which he could go, but it was conducted by the
frères, and he did not like it. I am sure there is a large
field for usefulness here, and should much like to have
some sort of Sunday School for them, if the way could
be made clear.
Sunday, Jan. 10th.—This afternoon G. started, accom-
panied by a friend, to distribute tracts and Scripture
portions on a larger scale, and, in many cases, was beset
by eager applicants. May God deign to bless this feeble
effort, and to own His own Word! I had an hour's
earnest Bible searching with a Roman Catholic, who
could not believe her Church had ever expunged the
Second Commandment, nor that the Holy Virgin could
be other than the Mother of God. She said she was
very pious" before she came to Africa, but that "every
tr
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
109
one lost their religion as soon as they came here." We
finally read John iii., and I trust she understood some-
what of the difference between merely nominal faith, and
the converting grace of God. How little will the name
of Protestant avail us, unless we become partakers of
the latter!
Jan. 11th.-Met Monsieur D. by appointment, at his
campagne, and concluded an agreement to take it for
four months. On every side we ascend to it, and the
salubrity of the air (if not too keen) is something which
can hardly be surpassed. The view is one of the most
extensive, and picturesque, to be found in the vicinity.
Those who can stand the climate, may perhaps prefer
the town; but we invariably find the atmosphere there,
produces a sense of lassitude, and indescribable weariness,
while on the hills, strength positively seems to come in
walking.
The aloes on every hill-side, numbered as they may
be by thousands, and tens of thousands, often cause re-
flections and speculations as to the use to which they
might be applied. The long fibrous texture of which the
spiked leaves are composed, might surely be turned to
some account, as hemp, for example, in the manufacture
of ropes or linen. I pulled off several threads to-day
almost as strong as twine, though not thicker than fine
horsehair. The plant is usually about four, or five feet
high, but we measured some leaves to-day which had
attained a height of seven and eight feet. Here and
there, around a poor dwelling, some of the sword-like
leaves are stuck in the ground, to form a fence, in
imitation of paling. Occasionally, the same ingenuity
will make use of one of the stiff inner, and half rounded
leaves, to direct the course of a mountain rill into a
water-cask.
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A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
More frequently the goats may be seen browsing amidst
these plants. They quickly lay bare the long white
threads, which, thanks to their assistance, I gathered.
But in these days, when employment is so loudly asked
for, it does seem a sin for so much valuable material to run
to waste. Were thousands annually to be cut down for
any such purposes, tens of thousands would soon replace
them. After the aloe has thrown up its stems, covered
with flowers some twelve and fifteen feet high, resembling
a tall young pine-fir bereft of its branches, it dies, but
around its roots dozens of young plants spring up from
the phoenix-like parent. Its own peculiar beauty, unlike
that of almost any other plant, often recalls the pleasure
which the sacred writers evidently took in it.
"All thy
garments smell of myrrh, and aloes, and cassia." "Thy
plants are an orchard of pomegranates, with pleasant
fruits-myrrh, and aloes, with all the chief spices." The
garden aloe here is, however, a smaller species.
There is also a very flax-like substance to be found in
the cactus, but on its leaves (and the whole plant is
simply one continuous succession of leaves) the Scotch
motto, "Nemo me impune lacessit," is unmistakably
inscribed. Its long fine prickles teach one not to be too
forward in making experiments with the cactus. What-
ever manufactures therefore of the kind the Arabs
engage in, the material is derived from the aloe or
the palm.
I have just heard a pithy Arab proverb, which is said
to be wonderfully expressive of their policy: "The dog,
when he has money, must be called, My Lord the Dog."
Perhaps it is more significant in the original than in the
translation, but it strikes me as not altogether different
from the ideas which prevail elsewhere.
G. has just brought home the news, which had been
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111
telegraphed to Marseilles, of the unexpected birth of a
little Prince, another heir to the throne of England.
Jan. 12th. The papers have just come in, telling us
of very severe weather in England, and of indications,
leading the Humane Society to prepare for a winter similar
to that of 1813-14. Here, at the same date, we were
certainly rejoicing in spring weather; and, for a week
past, people have been congratulating each other on all
sides, on the apparent termination of winter.
It is a
continuous, and steep ascent of three miles to El-Biar,
but we have every reason to believe that, even at that
height, we shall have now no cause to face the cold.
Visited Mrs. D., who is very uneasy about her son, and
thinks the climate has rather aggravated his symptoms.
She does not like the French doctors, and wishes she had
never come here. Confirmed in my previous impressions,
that this place is only suited to such as are well enough
to go about, and enjoy themselves. After several weeks
of acclimatisation-in his case a very long process—
G. is beginning to feel the real benefit of this complete
change.
Jan. 13th.-Visited the Jardin d'Essai, usually a place
to which visitors at once resort, but which has been, till
now, from various causes, a treat in reserve. Up to this
day, I thought the glowing language in which some
writers describe the town of Algiers, a mere flower of
rhetoric, or stretch of the imagination. I had visited
all the Moorish parts, and found them dirty and low,
with streets usually so narrow as only to deserve the
name of alleys. I had looked down on it daily from the
side of the casbah, aslant at it from the road leading to
Mustapha Supérieur, again and again at it from the
over-hanging heights, round the corner from St. Eugène,
and straight up at it from the harbour, but always
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A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
thought epithets of admiration to be mere poetical
licences. But let no one either admire, or depreciate, the
appearance of Algiers, till they have seen it from the
Jardin d'Essai. The distance-about two miles-across
the blue waters, is just enough to cast a veil over every dis-
figurement, and but for the presence of some very tall white
buildings, with unmistakable French windows, one could
dream that the conquest of 1830 was a myth, and that
the Turks were still in undisturbed possession of that
thoroughly Eastern-looking city. From the sea-laved
base, up, up, up, her white houses rise step by step,
like marble stairs, apparently till they reach the Fort
de l'Empereur. Tranquilly "the pearl of the sea," as
her enthusiastic admirers call her, reposes on the slopes
of the Sahel, glittering in the bright sunbeam, the
blue waves sparkling at her feet, and the brilliant green
around forming a setting worthy of such a gem.
But the garden itself:-Under a long wide avenue of
lofty plane-trees overarching, and terminating in a beau-
tiful vista of the bay, we first entered, and it was at the
end of this walk that we first saw Algiers to perfection.
Another avenue, parallel to this one, consisted of lofty
date palms, alternated with lataniers, or fan palms;
all were laden with fruit, clusters of which hung down
in heavy bunches. The dates, however, rarely, if ever,
ripen in this immediate vicinity. But the avenue which
chiefly struck us, probably from its novelty, as well as for
its beauty, was one composed of bamboos. This slight-
looking, tall, graceful plant, still in leaf, is not indigenous,
but thrives well here, as indeed every plant seems to do,
the araucarias, and Norfolk-Island pines in particular.
The Jardin d'Essai is considered the great nursery-
garden of Algeria, where vegetable productions from
all parts are brought, with a view to their acclimati-
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113
sation. No wonder we poor mortals, devoid of this care,
pass sometimes uncomfortably enough through this pro-
cess! The mulberry-tree abounds for the sake of the
silkworm, which is cultivated here. A large establish-
ment for rearing silkworms also exists, which we hope
to visit on a future occasion. Mr. Hardy, the director
of the gardens, is most ready to show every attention
to the English, who have only to send in their cards, to
receive all information and assistance in his power to
afford them.
This pépinière of the Government, consists already of
about eighty acres, and more land is constantly being
taken in as required. Orange, lemon, and citron-trees
abound; and exotics, both in frames, and in the open air.
Mr. Hardy says there are above 4,000 varieties of plants
and trees. Above 200,000 trees are annually given to
colonists by the Government, from the Jardin d'Essai.
This seems a feature worthy of imitation in our own
colonies. Every information, catalogues of plants, &c. are
given gratis to any parties desirous of the same.
A distant part of the garden, devoted to every known
species of young palms, was that which struck us most,
but the whole enclosure is beautifully laid out, and well
repays a visit. Fancy the treasures of Kew Gardens
hothouses growing in the open air, and one may form
some idea of the Jardin d'Essai.
I
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CHAPTER XI.
ARAB QUARTERS.
Arab Quarter of Algiers-Description of an Arab House-Contrast to London
Tenements-Advantage of Flat Roofs-The Fragrance of the Fan Palm-
Dress of the Jewesses-The English and Church Service-Grateful Recep-
tion of Religious Publications among French, Spaniards, &c.—Interesting
Case of an Arab and his Sons-Invitation to the Governor-General's-Cost
of Housekeeping in Algiers.
January 15th.-We penetrated to-day the mazes of the
Arab quarter, in quest of a poor girl, who had met with
an accident. The narrow winding streets, often not
much more than six feet in width, the low small door-
ways, each conducting the visitor into the midst of a com-
munity, large enough to people many an English hamlet,
appear at first sight admirably calculated to screen
offenders from the pursuit of justice, but the vigilance
of French rule is a match for the inhabitants, and order
and security reign at present in Algiers. A description
of the house in question will suffice to introduce the
stranger into the general run of Moorish houses, once
occupied by Algerians of wealth, now become a sort of
rabbit warren, on a par with similar localities in St. Giles
and Whitechapel. I mean as to the status of the popula-
tion. I question if either locality could produce such
houses as those we visited to-day, one of which I will
endeavour to describe.
Stoop to follow me, then, under the said low doorway,
surmounted as it is by a crescent painted blue, or some
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115
such symbol of the Moslem faith. We ascend half-a-
dozen dark steps, and find ourselves in a large court,
open to the sky, with a covered gallery running all round
it, and a number of doors opening into the same, as into
an ordinary street, each door leading into a room, the
abode of one family. Before ascending higher, we will
peep over the balcony into a lower strata, where a similar
circuit may be performed around a similar gallery, before
descending to the lowest depths, where the inhabitants.
burrow on the ground floor, and each dwelling opens on
the court itself. The town of Algiers being built on a
declivity of the Sahel, the steep descent favours this
apparent undermining, for probably the said court would
be almost on a level with a lower street on the opposite
side. But oh! how great the contrast with our London
dwellings of the poor, and these Moorish abodes. Instead
of the cellars, where free air enters never, and where the
open door only admits the impurities of the other under-
ground tenements, here each door opens to receive the
air of heaven, every window looks into the court, and
every room we visit is beautifully whitewashed. Where
the Moors reside, there cleanliness will be found, as
enjoined by the religion they so scrupulously obey, and
once a week-every Friday-their houses are washed,
and thoroughly rinsed down with water, from the highest
storey to the lowest. A cistern is an indispensable ad-
junct to every Moorish dwelling.
It was light and airy enough on the rez-de-chausée,
where we entered, but lighter still on the next floor, or
gallery, to which we ascended by a little winding back
stair; above that, we had to ascend another flight, where
the door and windows opened out on a terrace, before we
found the object of our search. I gently opened the
door, for I had been there before, but stayed a moment
I 2
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on hearing her, as I thought, in conversation. It was
not, however, to man she was speaking, and it was
beautiful to listen to the evident outpouring of her
heart in prayer, although in a language I understood not.
It must have been an unwonted sound in that place, to
which she had only recently removed, inhabited, as it
was, by a strange, godless set.
All communication between us had been carried on in
French; but it was not her native tongue, and now her
earnest pleadings, as she seemed to wrestle with God in
prayer, affected me greatly. Affliction and trial had
been sanctified to her, for I knew somewhat of her past
history, and I could not help regarding her as an oasis in
a desert, none of those around her in this strange bee-
hive, knowing or caring for the things of God. They all
nevertheless, without exception, gratefully accepted the
tracts we gave them, whether Jews, Moors, or French
Roman Catholics. Little else can we do for their spiritual
welfare, but as far as disseminating these little messengers
and of portions of the Scriptures, there is an open door.
We must not, however, leave this Moorish dwelling-a
type of the greater part of the town-without going a few
steps higher still, and walking round on the leads, or la
terrace, as it is always called.
This is the common property of all the inmates, and
here, under a bright blue sky, they possessed a view of
sea, mountain, and plain, which I envied for our poor
Londoners. On these flat roofs of their houses, their
washing and drying is carried on, and probably their own.
ablutions likewise. While on the roof, we could have
shaken hands with some Jews who came to their windows
to look at us in the opposite street, so closely do the
houses adjoin, the upper part overhanging, and supported
by poles fixed transversely in the storey below. In the
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117
palmy days of Algiers, when piracy was the chief trade
of these lawless oppressors, Christian slaves used often to
attempt to escape by night from the Casbah, situated at
the highest point of the town, by jumping over these flat
roofs, which descend to the sea like so many steps, at the
terrible peril of their necks. Thank God, these days are
over now. If the Moors have found a scourge in their
conquerors, it was not until they had filled their own cup
of iniquity to the brim.
January 16th.-Ascended a high ridge of the Sahel,
overtopping Notre Dame d'Afrique, and covered near
the summits with thousands of the stunted fan palms.
The chief use to which this is applied by the Arabs, is in
making a sort of cheap brush, formed by simply tying
them up tightly together. A whole file of donkeys may
be generally seen every day, laden with freshly-cut loads
of the fan palm. It offers a most tempting seat to the
wanderer, independent of its springy and elastic qualities,
as it emits a fragrant odour when thus crushed. How
often we require to be submitted to a crushing process,
before we yield the fragrance which the Lord has a right
to expect from every tree planted in His garden!
Partridges abound on these heights, and in descending
we were overtaken by a chasseur, who walked with us
back to the town, giving us abundant local information.
There are as many Spaniards, he told us, as French, and
in Oran the former greatly preponderate. He watched,
with great apparent interest, the distribution of tracts, and
not only took one himself, but asked for some for his
children. It was 5 P.M. as we left the mountain-top, and
saw the setting sun, yet we now could sit there without
experiencing any feeling of cold, and in descending found
our light wraps too warm. All the English journals speak
of an unusually bitter and intensely cold winter at home.
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A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
This is a grand gala-day amongst the Jews, who
always observe Saturday scrupulously, as a day of rest
from labour, and of exhibiting themselves in their best
attire. The Jewesses form a striking contrast to the
female part of the community here, where every Moslem
woman is veiled. On this account they present quite a
relief in the tableaux vivants of Algiers. On Saturdays
especially, their dresses are often sumptuous as regards
material, red satin and brocaded silks being abundantly
worn; but as to pattern or fashion, they might have come
out of the Ark. Their smart, tight, stiff gowns are
fastened round the waist, with an equally showy girdle.
Sleeves they have none, but a short loose piece of white
lace, or net. Their head-dress is usually of stiff black
silk, ornamented with flowers, spangled net, gold lace, or
whatever comes to hand. They never wear stockings,
and their heel, consequently, as some Frenchman says,
is vulnerable, as was Achilles'. Unlike his, unfortunately,
there is little sign of theirs having been dipped in the
Styx, or in any other river. On the whole, the Jewesses
are fine-looking women.
Sunday, Jan. 17th.-Every Sabbath brings before one
most forcibly the ill effects of a Continental residence.
Very few English, comparatively, are here this winter,
and fewer still know how to value Sabbath privileges
when they have them. The ministry amongst the English
is therefore not very encouraging, though, thank God,
there are exceptions. One lady, who rejoices in the means
of grace now afforded, has resided here for three years.
Last winter, the service was undertaken by a clergyman
who came for his wife's health, assisted by two other
clergymen who were wintering in Algiers. During the
previous winter, it was only for six weeks that service
was performed by a clergyman, who happened to be here;
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119
and no service whatsoever was held throughout the
winter before that. This was at the beginning of her
residence here, and she assured us that no words could
express what she would have given for a faithful minister.
To her own grief, however, that feeling soon wore off
and, much as she struggled against it, it was difficult to
regard the Lord's Day as different from any other day.
No marvel, then, that with others habituated to careless-
ness, the fatigue arising from the gaieties of the previous
weeks-for this little community seems absorbed in balls
and parties—should detain them from the house of God.
But if this often awakens regrets, and makes one
mourn over one's own countrymen, the readiness with
which the French and Spaniards, Germans and Maltese,
receive such tidings of salvation as we can offer, makes
one often feel that it was worth coming to Algiers for
their sakes, if God gives such an opportunity as this.
At the barracks and guard-room, our little messengers
are gratefully accepted, and the soldiers are beginning to
know us, and stop to tell us of such a tract having been
read in the caserne. Nothing is more encouraging than
to be asked for such and such a portion of Scripture,
which had been given to another.
This afternoon, we took out a well-filled bag, but our
supply was exhausted long before our return. A Moorish
boy followed us some way, asking for a book, which we
thought he could not read in French. However, he
managed to spell out a verse, and assured us he was
learning; so I gave him a Gospel of St. John, which he
received with delight, put it in his bosom, and promised
never to part with it. Ten minutes afterwards, as we
were resting under a bank, he re-appeared overhead to
complain that his brother had taken it from him. He
could not well explain himself, and we feared that Moslem
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enmity had been aroused; however, we invited the
brother's attendance, and put his reading to the test,
on finding he wished to be the possessor of it. He made
but a poor hand of it, and we tried him with Arabic with
little better success. This fellow, a half-starved looking
being, was wrapped round in the Bedouin bernouse, and
was such a contrast to his bright little brother, who, in
virtue of his attendance at the Government School, was
dressed in the bright-coloured vest and tunic which the
Moors delight in. He then despatched his young brother
for their father, and a patriarchal-looking Arab soon
made his appearance, bringing with him a book fastened
to his girdle, all of which had been written out by him-
self-I may almost say illuminated; for each word began
with a coloured letter. This was written in the common
Arabic, and ours, alas! was not. The vernacular of these
poor people is much debased, which renders it difficult
even for Arabic scholars to have much conversation with
the poor Moors here. Finally we gave the Arabic book
to the father and eldest son, and restored the St. John's
Gospel to its owner. All seemed pleased, and we parted
with signs of good-will, praying that God would be
pleased to prosper His own Word, and grant that it
might not return to Him void. We have constantly
polite inquiries as to what is to be paid. It is a comfort
to hope and believe that one's Sunday afternoons are not
altogether unprofitable.
January 19th.-This day was fixed for our removal to
El-Biar, but last night a sudden hurricane of wind, with
torrents of rain, came on, and it has been sufficiently wet
all to-day to put a stop to our proceedings.
G. had a gratifying letter this morning from Cam-
bridge, from a warm friend of the Arabs, who had heard
somehow of his efforts amongst the Jews, Moors, and
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121
nominal Christians, in this most mixed of all populations,
warmly encouraging him to carry on the work, and
expressing his belief that Algiers was a most important
centre for Missionary operations. It would be a great
comfort if one could speak their languages, but it is a
greater comfort still to know that God can own and bless
the feeblest instrumentality.
Had an invitation for last night to the Governor
General's, the Duke and Duchess of Malakoff; but as we
rightly divined it to be a ball, we did not pay our
respects to them, and, unhappily, Sunday is their only
reception day. The Duke's administration is well spoken
of, as firm and wise, and the Duchess seems to be amiable
and popular.
The English Commissionaire has just given us the plea-
sant information, that furniture is now selling greatly
under its price, and that at the end of May, when we shall
want to part with ours, it will only go for a song. Owing
to the non-arrival of the English, the campagnes, which
had been extensively furnished, with the anticipated profits
of the coming season, are all being dismantled, to help pay
for the speculation, which has turned out such a failure.
Not knowing this, it was only yesterday we bought some
additional furniture, and certainly in this instance we
did not find that "coming events cast their shadows
before."
Amongst the many contradictory statements which were
made in answer to our inquiries respecting this distant land,
before leaving England, were those on the price of pro-
visions. Our cook has just explained matters :---Fillet de
Bauf is now twenty-eight sous a pound: when she came
here fourteen years ago, the price was six sous. Skinny
chickens, which now cost twenty-four sous each, and fine
ones, for which we give fifty sous, and that is considered bon
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A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
marché, varied at that period from five sous, the minimum,
to ten sous, the maximum. Everything else was in pro-
portion, so those who only knew Algiers formerly, would
of course give it a character for cheapness. All visitors
should bring their own tea, which is sixteen franes a pound,
and very bad. English groceries are dear; for instance,
a shilling bottle of Harvey's sauce, costs two francs and
a half; Huntley and Palmer's "pic-nics," four francs a
pound; arrowroot is eight francs a pound, and so on.
Veau de lait, and agneau de la première qualité, are
the best meat for invalids, or any one who studies diges-
tion, but for both we have to give sixty sous a killo, or
fifteen pence a pound.
Sardines, it must be confessed, are cheap, and my
attention was drawn to the fact by seeing a dish-full
to-day, which our cook had just bought to feed her
cat upon. What would an English pussy say to such
dainty fare?
This evening is fine, and to-morrow we hope to take
possession of our new abode.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
123
I
CHAPTER XII.
EL-BIAR-OUR NEW HOME.
•
Removal to El-Biar-Mode of Transit-Our New Campagne-The Climate
-Scenery-Its Botany-Visit to a Moorish House-M. Durando, the
Botanist - Contrast between Past and Present in Algiers -- Children's
Desire for Books-Rifle Practice on the Lord's Day-Sabbath Desecration
-Good Influence of English Example-An Arab in European Dress-Re-
ception Days-Flowers and Vegetation-Stormy Weather-Señor Rouatt
and Matamoros-Our Curé and Monseigneur the Bishop-A Sisterhood
sent back to France in Disgrace - A Rebellious Nun- Visit to a Café
Maure—An Arab Reader-The Carnival in Algiers-La Fièvre—Saladin—
Price of Arab Horses-Ladies' Saddles.
El-Biar, Jan. 21st.-Yesterday, our transit was accom-
plished in true Algerine style. A so-called cart, i.e.
four wheels, supporting massive planks of wood, which
may be indefinitely elongated, and remind one somewhat
of a miniature Rhine raft, was brought to the door, drawn
by four oxen, and warranted to hold all the furniture
which requires transportation. All our movables were
forthwith brought down, and placed thereupon by the
sturdy Arabs, without whom Algeria could get on no
better than could British India without the natives.
large drawing-room chimney-glass, being deemed too valu-
able for packing, was carried on the shoulder of one of
these men the whole way. We brought up the rear in
an omnibus filled with glass, china, and other things of
a fragile species. The two drivers, four Arabs, and the
indefatigable commissionaire, completed our convoy, and
gave us such assistance on arriving, that in a short time
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our new campagne looked as much furnished as if it had
been occupied for a month. I met one Arab coming
upstairs with a box of books weighing nearly two
hundredweight on his back, and he only required help
from a brother Arab to transfer it to the floor.
The change from Algiers to El-Biar is great, and the
French bestow upon the latter the highest praise they
can, when they tell you it is quite like le climat de
France! It is fresh to a degree, and too cold for very
delicate people in the winter; but as we have now the
sun on our house from the moment it rises, behind the
beautiful range of snow-clad hills in the distance at
7 A.M., till it sets in the west at 5 P.M., we are not
inclined to complain. The heat in the middle of the
day is most genial, and only requires a parasol to ward
the sun's rays from the head. The rambles too, which
the neighbourhood affords, are such as cannot be enjoyed
near the city, and exquisite ferns and lycopodiums are
now to be found in what we should call "Devonshire
lanes," but that the leafy exuberance which festoons the
overhanging hedges, is unequalled even in them. The
young wheat is now from twelve to twenty inches high,
and is being ruthlessly cut down with clumsy reaping-
hooks, to serve as fodder for cattle, in patches just
is wanted. A second crop, destined for man's staff of
life, will soon spring up again.
To-day, I had quite a botanical lesson. The large
glossy and dentated leaves of the acanthus are every-
where to be found, and as a wild flower this is unknown
in Great Britain, save in the Scilly Isles. The leaves of
the little stone wort are here sometimes eight inches in
diameter, and those of the cyclamen are immense. Wild
asparagus, and wild mignionette grow side by side, and
the fan palm everywhere sets off itself and its neigh-
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bours to advantage. I was greatly surprised to learn
that neither the aloe nor the cactus were indigenous, the
former having been planted by the Spaniards all along
the shores of the Mediterranean, and the latter introduced
here from South America. I questioned how it could be
so, on seeing the abundant growth of both which over-
spreads the soil, and was asked in return how the Anglo-
Saxon race could have taken such complete possession
of America, where they were not natives? The only
solution of this problem I could frame, was that the latter
were bipeds, whereas the cactus and aloe had not even a
leg to stand on.
The lentisk, or terebinth of the Scripture, grows in
profusion. On reaching an opening in the hedge we
came upon what appeared a recently ploughed field of
some acres, planted in the usual way with winter greens.
On a closer examination, each plant proved to be a young
geranium, of which there must have been thousands. We
learnt that geraniums are so largely employed by the
French in perfumes and essences, that it led to their
extensive cultivation, and that it is the staple produce of
a neighbouring village. Monsieur Simonnet, the chief
physician to the Civil Hospital, has invented some pro-
cess by which the floral essences can be solidified, and he
enjoys a great reputation by reason of this discovery.
Called on Madame Bodichon, and saw her beautiful
sketches of the neighbourhood. Algeria is truly a place
for artists.
Jan. 23d.-Called at a French house, or rather on a
French family in a Moorish house. The exterior seldom
gives a correct idea of the comfort to be found in these
dwellings, when the marble paved quadrangle universally
to be found in the centre, has been enclosed by a glass
dome, as was the case in this instance. The size, too,
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would equally mislead the casual observer, situated, as
they usually are, in a dell, or if near the high road, pre-
senting nothing to the eye but a low black wall, which
conveys no conception of the spacious mansions to be
found within. From thence to Madame B. whose recep-
tion-day collects many of the visitors and residents.
This fashion of having a special day for seeing one's
friends and acquaintances has its advantages, and is one
of the established usages of the place.
I made many additions to my small store of botanic
lore. A regular visitor here at these Saturday réunions,
is a M. Durando, who collects the seeds of all the known
plants of Algeria, and who therefore ranks as a great
authority in such matters. He has kindly marked for
me, on a list, the names of such species as are peculiar
to Algeria; also of such as are not to be found in either
England or France, but which are indigenous in Spain,
Sicily, and other parts bordering on the Mediterrancan.*
Monsieur B. told us he had resided here for twenty-
eight years, and that during the earlier part of that
period, life and property were alike insecure here. It
was nothing uncommon for the Bedouin Arabs to come
by night, put a gun to the door, and burst it open, and
then proceed to massacre and plunder. On one occasion
a family of seven persons were thus murdered. Now,
thanks to the stringent measures adopted by the French,
the security in the neighbourhood of Algiers, is greater
than in the vicinity of London, or Paris.
On our way back through our little village, first one
small claimant, then another, came timidly whispering
their requests for a petit livre, till their seniors took
courage likewise, and we soon had a crowd around us.
God grant this seed cast on the waters may be found
* Soo Appendix.
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127
after many days. At their breakfast hour, we passed four
stonecutters on the road, not one of whom had ever
possessed a New Testament. We gave one of them this
treasure, when he promised to read it to his companions ;
and on repassing them a quarter of an hour after, he
was diligently reading aloud, while they were all pressing
around to hear. This may be but broadcast sowing, but
it is the true seed. We hope to do something more by
means of colportage.
Monday, Jan. 25th.-Yesterday, on our road down
to church, we saw the riflemen at their regular target
practice, as though it had been an ordinary day. After
service, we remained to breakfast in Algiers with a friend,
from whose windows we looked down on the soldiers
drawn up for a review in the Place du Gouvernement.
We were assured that this takes place every other Sun-
day. I could not help feeling the almost impossibility of
attempting, in such a spot, to bring up a child to fear the
Lord, and to reverence His Sabbaths. Nothing surprises
the poor people here so much as our refusal to allow of
any work being done, or anything bought for us, on the
Lord's Day. Many who never before saw a Bible, are
now reading it diligently, to see if these things are so.
We heard a pleasing fact from the superintendent of
the works going on here under Peto and Co.; work on
the Sabbath has never been allowed, to the amazement
of the French builders and contractors, who frequently
remonstrated at first on the folly of such a proceeding.
When some Government works were recently commenced,
all hands were, as usual, engaged on the Sunday, and the
contractor tried to convince Sir M. Peto's superintendent
of the great economy of time, and consequently of money,
which would accrue to them.
"I doubt it," replied Mr. H., and procceded to assure
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his friendly adviser that, independently of the religious
command, men must have one day's rest in seven. He
pointed out to him that whereas Peto's men always came
back fresh to their work every Monday, his workmen.
usually took Monday as a holiday, having worked on the
day of rest; and that from those who did continue at
their posts, only an average of six days' work would be
the result of their seven days' labour. His friend listened
incredulously, shrugged his shoulders, and promised to
think it over.
The result of his observations so verified
Mr. H.'s remarks, that in a short time a marked difference
took place in Sunday labour, not only on this particular
building, but on other Government and public works.
Tuesday, Jan. 26th.-Met a most enthusiastic admirer
of the beauties of this neighbourhood to-day, in an old
resident, who considers the Bay of Naples far inferior to
that of Algiers. On remarking the handsome appearance
of some of the Arabs we passed, Capt. de G. said it was
almost incredible how much was owing to their costume.
He told me that when he was quartered in Paris, a Chief
of the Kabyles arrived there, who was, he thought, with-
out exception, the finest and most dignified man he had
ever seen. A few weeks later he again met this chief,
no longer arrayed in flowing Moorish robes, but in a
French surtout. He could not in the least recognise the
personality of the individual, who now appeared posi-
tively plain. It is quite the fashion here, both amongst
French and English, to sit for their photographs in Arab
costumes, which are hired out for the occasion, and which
certainly does occasionally set off even ugly men to great
advantage.
Thursday, Jan. 28th.-A custom prevails here which
has its decided advantages, that of fixing on one day
in the week for receiving one's acquaintances. This has
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129
been our first reception day, and the result makes us con-
verts to the expediency of the plan. At a distance from
the town, one could not expect one's friends to call, on
the chance of finding one from home.
G. has now arranged, with other friends, to employ a
Colporteur in the Market-places to sell Bibles and Testa-
ments. The desire evinced to obtain the Scriptures, in
whole or in part, is very great, and I trust the demand
will be increased when they are found to be for sale.
Our great need now is to find the right man.
The sea to-day, and indeed for many days past, has
been placid as a lake, mirroring every sail, and mast, and
cordage, which reposes on its surface. The full blossom
of the hawthorn, and almond, on the hilly side of a
ravine, intermingled with the darker evergreens, often
bring to mind the beautiful apple blossoms of a Devon-
shire valley in the month of June. The white spiky
flowers of the asphodel, and the red ones of the gladiolus,
or "lys nignon," as it is commonly called, are now
everywhere to be seen; but luxuriant as are the produc-
tions of the vegetable world, wherever they are to be
found, yet the full wealth of tropical vegetation must not
be expected in the neighbourhood of Algiers, which
boasts only a dry, rocky, and comparatively barren soil.
Nothing approaching a wood is anywhere visible. The
place would be too perfect, so a French gentleman told
me the other day, could this desideratum be attained.
Wednesday, Feb. 3d.-For several days we have had
stormy weather, and to-day thunder and lightning, and a
downright pelting of hail; nevertheless we accomplished
a walk to the Bouzaréah, and the clouds and mists only
added to the stern beauty of the scenery.
El-Biar being situated on the promontory at the end
of which Algiers is built, we could see from the high land
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Sidi Ferruch, the spot on which the French effected their
successful landing in 1830; to the west before us lay the
dark frowning Alps of the Atlas, and turning to the east
the beautiful Bay of Algiers was rolling in, land-locked
by the ground over which the defeated army of Charles V.
had marched to re-embark at Cape Matifou. Alto-
gether, this is a wonderful place for historical reminis-
cences, ancient and modern. I much prefer the down-
right wild aspect presented by the walk we took to-day,
to the half-cultivated wilderness-like view we so often
get from other parts.
Thursday, February 4th.-Several visitors. Tidings
or rumours of war in Europe having actually broken out.
May it yet be averted! Made acquaintance to-day with
one of the noble army of martyrs, Señor Rouatt, who
has thrice been imprisoned in Spain for preaching the
Gospel, the first time for twenty-four hours, the second
time for seven days; and as the love of Christ still con-
strained him to tell perishing sinners of a Saviour's grace,
the third time his bonds lasted for seven months, at the
end of which time he was sentenced to perpetual banish-
ment.
We felt it an honour to have one of these con-
fessors under our roof, but our interest was increased on
hearing, in reply to a question about Matamoros, that
Señor Rouatt had been the honoured instrument of his
conversion. Even the world must feel there is reality
about the religion of those who have faced imprisonment,
and death if need be, and found the Lord Jesus an
all-sufficient staff, and His consolations abundant at
such seasons.
The right man for our colporteur has not yet been
found. Religious liberty is unusually great in Algiers.
About a week since the curé here, and the bishop, com-
plained to the authorities of our proceedings in giving
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131
away tracts and testaments, but the latter have ruled it
to be a matter which does not concern them, and in
which they do not wish to interfere. This is ground for
thankfulness and encouragement.
A small sisterhood of five nuns, and their superior,
who have somehow offended the bishop, passed our house
this morning, on their road to the packet by which they
are to embark for France. One sister has refused to
obey the stern mandate, and having arranged herself "en
dame," as the people call it here, has decided to remain,
and open a school in Algiers. I had often wished to
offer them some little book, but could never summon up
courage, and now it is too late. How soon may not "too
late" be inscribed on every path of usefulness, towards
which there is now an open door. A lady residing here,
some time since, gave a bible to a nursing sister who had
attended her in illness, with the full assent and sanction
of the superior, who said she would gladly read it her-
self. Some months later the sisterhood were hastily sent
back to France in disgrace, the reason assigned being,
that the priest had found a prohibited book in the
convent. It may be that God's Word had spoken to
some hearts amidst that nursing band, and they whose
special mission it was to minister to others, had them-
selves found Jesus as their Healer, and all-sufficient
Saviour.
Monday, February 8th.-A tremendous storm all last
night and to-day, accompanied with hail and hurricanes
of wind. Trying weather for invalids, but bracing and
invigorating for those who can stand it, and wrap them-
selves up to meet it, as they would an English winter.
This has lasted for more than a week already, but with
sunny intervals brightening up our mountain views, with
hues of glorious beauty.
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Yesterday G. entered a Café Maure, full as usual of
inmates; for the shop of the quhouadji, or coffee-house
keeper, is one of the favourite resorts of the Arabs. They
will sit there for hours, cross-legged, or leaning half-
recumbent against one another, talking, listening, or
gambling. He asked if any of them could read; not
one present had attained this accomplishment, but they
sent forthwith for one who could do so, and who pro-
ceeded at once to read aloud an Arabic book which G.
gave him.
We sadly want the medium of language,
but we are to take them an Arabic Testament, which,
with God's blessing, will speak for itself.
Ash-Wednesday, February 18th.-To-day in Algiers
we came in for a very small specimen of the winding-up of
the Carnival. Mercredi des Cendres, to use the French
form of expression, "on brule, ou on enterre, ou on noye
Carnaval." It is, of course, a man of straw (not figura-
tively but literally), like our Guy Fawkes, who is thus
burnt, drowned, or buried, and the one we saw was
carried along like a sick man with very poor sur-
roundings. A French gentleman told us this was so
by reason of the prevailing poverty and distress, and
that last year's Carnival was much of the same character,
but that in former years they had always had the pro-
menade du bauf gras, when the animal was followed
by a cavalcade of all the butchers in the place, and the
day was terminated by a grand ball.
The Carnival of 1862 seems to have been something
extraordinary. The Duke of Malakoff gave 10,000
francs, and a further sum of 10,000 francs was collected
in the place to defray the expenses. A tournament was
held, in which all the gentlemen of Algiers were actors,
and in which they represented, in suitable costumes, all
the most striking events in the history of France, from
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133
the period of the Druids, down to the time of Louis
XIV. And, afterwards, a passage of arms was executed
by the cavaliers of Charlemagne, encased in complete
suits of armour, all of which took place on the artillery
ground in front of the Fort des Vingt-Quatre Heures,
now being so rapidly destroyed. It transports one back
to the mummeries of the days of Henry VIII. or of the
Stuarts, to hear of such fooleries in the vaunted nine-
teenth century.
Thursday, February 11th.-A continuation of storms
and hurricanes, which seemed, at times, almost to threaten
the downfall of the house. Yesterday, for upwards of
twelve hours, the rain fell in ceaseless torrents, and
during the night it was much the same; yet so high
was the wind, that the roads were hard, and dry this
morning. The Vice-Consul, whose long acquaintance
with Algeria makes him a competent judge, says he
should greatly hesitate to recommend this climate for
consumptive invalids.
(6
In speaking to French servants, I find they have a great
dread of the fever, induced by the climate, and those who
enjoyed perfect health in their own country, are obliged
here to avoid everything which would tend to a return
of la fiévre." The River Harratch has greatly over-
flown its banks, and looks quite like a sea in the distance.
The mail steamer of the Messagéries Impériales, which left
on Tuesday, only got as far as Point Pescade, when it
was compelled to return by stress of weather, and has not
again quitted the port.
Every other day, for the last fortnight, an Arab horse-
dealer has been up here with different steeds, on approba-
tion, and to-day a beautiful bay Arab horse has made its
appearance, perfect in all its paces, and approved by the
veterinary surgeon, for which the sum of 600 francs was
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demanded. The Arabs make a practice of asking twice
as much as they are prepared to take, and the more
modest sum of 400 francs was finally agreed on, to the
mutual satisfaction of both parties. It remains to be
seen whether "Saladin" will be considered worth the
same amount when his new master wants to part with
him. Arab riding-horses may occasionally be got at 150
and 200 francs; and 1,000 francs is spoken of as some-
thing exorbitant. Saladin is a beautiful creature, and
full of life, yet very gentle.
G. has now had ample opportunity of ascertaining the
cost of these barbs. Four hundred francs is considered a
very good price; 600 francs a high one; but 700 francs,
or £28, will command the pick of the market for all
ordinary purposes. After all the stories we have heard
of the vices of the Arab horses, it seems wiser for any one,
about to visit the interior, to buy in preference to hiring.
Ladies should, at all events, take their own saddles on
such excursions. A lady who neglected this precaution,
has just given me an account of the misery she endured,
perched up on a sack, having to choose between sitting
in tailor-fashion, as the Arab women usually do, or letting
her feet hang down, without any description of support in
either case. She tried both, but made a firm resolve that
she would never again travel in the interior, without
providing herself with a saddle, even if she hired her
steed.
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CHAPTER XIII.
EFFORTS FOR GOOD.
Views en route to the Bouzaréah-R. A.'s Wanted-Regimental Quarters in
the Interior-Spahis-A Concert for the Protestant Orphelinat-The
French Press in Algiers-Book-burning by the Curé-Visit to a Colonist-
Formation of the English Library-Rules and Regulations-MM. Alary
and Geisers's Atelier-A Frenchman's Reminiscences of England in 1814.
Saturday, Feb. 13th.-After storms come a calm, and
we are now experiencing this. A warm genial Spring
seems really to have set in. To-day we discovered one
of the most romantic walks we have yet found in our
rovings, in a short or rather direct cut to the Bouzaréah;
through gorges and glens, ascents and descents equally
steep, and with views of exquisite beauty. A gurgling
stream, descending from its mountain source, flowing
over a grey rocky bed, amidst rich foliage of over-
hanging boughs, transported us in fancy, as we stood on
the narrow bridge by which it was spanned, to some of
the lovely dales of Derbyshire, till some dark, glossy,
richly-laden orange-tree dispelled the illusion. And then
a sudden opening outspread before us, as with enchanter's
wand, one of the beautiful bays around Torquay, till the
cactus and the aloe, and the mosque-like building sur-
mounting the grey stone slope, recalled us to Africa.
Cork-trees were in the hollow; and ascending the old
Roman road-if such the narrow and over-grown path
ever really were-we noticed on the opposite side of the
ravine, the picturesque effect of an orchard of fig-trees.
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Denuded of leaves, and with multitudinous stems and
twigs, so white as to appear frosted against the bright
green background, they looked like huge branches of
white coral.
The fields are now covered with the sweet jonquil, and
the purple iris; but, hitherto, I have searched the hedges
in vain for the snowdrop, or the primrose. The wild
mignonette is finer by far than ours, but lacks fragrance
until it is cut, and kept in water. The "wee, modest,
crimson-tipped daisy" is here; not so wee however as
its English sister, nor so crimson-tipped. It is usually
a large white flower, but sometimes of a lilac hue, and
sometimes pink. The hawthorn has long whitened the
hedges, and scented the air; and already strange flowers
are peeping up, making us anticipate the floral glories
which May is to bring forth. Each day we feel more
rejoiced at having fixed our residence up here, especially
when we get on the adjacent heights, and breathe the
mountain air.
But to revert to the Bouzaréah; the Arab village so
called, is situated on this side of an elevated part of
the mountain, and high above the level of the sea.
The view therefrom is grand, and is consequently one
of the most attractive drives in the environs of Algiers.
The escarpments and the counterforts, as the French call
them, branching out on all sides from this centre, form
the principal nucleus of the rocky ridges of the Sahel, to
the west of Algiers; to all of which, the name Bouzaréah
is usually given. Steep hills, deep ravines, and here and
there sheltered patches of cultivated land, with numerous
springs flowing down its sides, spreading freshness around
them, are the chief features of this range.
In returning by the high road, a high road in a two-
fold sense-oh, the exquisite views which burst on us!
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137
I might almost say, " views to right of us, views to left of
us, views in front of us;" but I must not parody, though
the dark frowning chains of the Atlas before us, seemed
ready to volley and thunder. To our right, the picture
stretched away towards Gibraltar, which of course was
far beyond our ken; but we saw Sidi Ferruch, the land-
ing place of the Gallic conquerors, part of the western
plain of the Metidja, and all those promontories, and
inlets, and bays, so dear to a painter's eye, especially
when bathed in the lustre of the setting sun as we saw
them now. Turning to the left, we again caught the
blue sea calmly rippling on in front of Hussein Dey, and
the Hammah, encircled in the embrace of Cape Matifou
(which one could hardly believe to be about fifteen miles
distant from Algiers), the snow-tinged hills keeping
stately guard around. On every side opened out a series.
of pictures.
Why do not more of our R.A. artists come out here?
Do they really know it is but four days from London,
and above all how richly their trouble would be repaid?
Poor Mr. Egg, R.A. indeed came here, but in an advanced
stage of consumption, and only to find a grave. His
widow is here at the present time, having undertaken the
long journey all alone, for the purpose of erecting a tomb
to his memory.
Monday, Feb. 15th.-Captain de G. having been
ordered off into the interior with his regiment, I paid a
visit of condolence to his sister, but was surprised to find
that he was delighted at the order, and that the stations
in the interior are highly popular. The pay is double,
and she assured me that quarters in any part of Algeria,
were preferred to those in the finest village of France.
The sirocco has begun to blow occasionally, although
at this season of the year it is a very mild affair. Still
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in the town it has been felt trying by some; up here we
only know of it by reports. Met to-day two of the
mounted spahis, arrayed in their scarlet burnouses, they
have always a striking effect on horseback.
As soon as possible, after the French conquest, Arab
soldiers were gradually incorporated into the French
ranks. At first, the plan did not seem to succeed, but,
on separating the spahis from the French chasseurs, it
answered better, and several squadrons have now been
formed under French officers. These spahis are the
volunteers of Africa; almost every one is of "good
family," and not unfrequently the oldest son of a chief.
The pay is extremely small, but the honour of the thing
attracts. Each volunteer must bring two horses, find his
own accoutrements, and bind himself to remain in the
service a certain number of years, at the termination of
which period he is free; but usually the spahi continues
to serve from choice. The "posts" which are established
every few kilometres on the different roads leading into
the interior, are confided entirely to them, and their
fidelity is beyond suspicion. If we visit places in the
interior, unvisited by the diligences, we must apply to
General Yusouf, who will forthwith furnish us with an
order for an escort of these scarlet cloaked spahis.
Wednesday, Feb. 17th.-For some time past most
strenuous efforts have been made to get up a concert of
amateur performers, chiefly English, for the benefit of a
Protestant Orphan Asylum at Dely-Ibrahim, which was
greatly in debt. This was a spontaneous act on the part
of the English here, and thanks to the unremitting zeal
of one gentleman, who laboured assiduously throughout
the whole affair, it proved most successful. From every
one present, we hear that such an attendance was scarcely
ever known as that which was seen on Monday evening
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139
last. The object considered, one would have thought
that local vanity, and jealousies, would for once have
yielded to gratitude for the very graceful act of kindness
performed by the English. But, alas! the gentleman who
mainly achieved this success, has just brought up the
Courier, giving a long account of the concert, which was
graced by the presence of the duke, six generals, and
other notabilities, but not one single word of acknowledg-
ment to the poor English. The paper states, on the con-
trary, that it was got up by the French pasteurs, and
thus briefly dismisses the obligations conferred. The
more one sees of the esprit of our French friends, the less
one marvels at their occasionally claiming the victory at
Waterloo! It would seem, at least, a lesson that in seek-
ing to do good, one should do it by more decided efforts
to glorify God, and then look simply for His approval as
our reward.
Christians in England have little idea how completely
the French pasteurs are fettered, by being in the pay of
the Government, which can at any moment withdraw
their allowance. Missionary efforts, amongst those at
their very doors, are unattempted, because discouraged,
if not proscribed, by Government. A missionary spirit
is consequently quenched, and the boldness which
prompted holy men of old, in like circumstances, to
exclaim, "Whether it be right in the sight of God to
hearken unto you more than unto God, judge ye," is
unknown.
I cannot make out that this said Orphelinat is exactly
in a flourishing condition, either as regards finances, or
the way in which it is conducted. With respect to
some who are connected with its official management,
grave suspicions are afloat as to their orthodoxy. The
institution itself we hope shortly to visit.
140
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
Friday, Feb. 19th.-We learn, on authority which
seems likely to be correct, that the poor curé here, failing
in his crusade against our Tract and Testament distri-
bution, lately commanded all such pernicious books to
be delivered up to him, and had on Sunday last a grand
burning of the same, and a procession in honour thereof.
Some, however, I know have retained their books, and
priestly influence has but a comparatively slight hold
here. One poor woman told an acquaintance of ours,
that she had read and could discover no positive harm
in the tracts, except that they did not speak of the
Virgin Mary !
In our rambles to-day we entered, by invitation, the
house of a French Lieutenant of the Chasseurs d'Afrique.
Desirous of being a colonist, and hoping to establish
himself permanently in this country, he has just bought
a little property, which he manages to cultivate in the
intervals of repose from military duties, with the very
energetic assistance of his wife, and a soldier by way
of a servant. The house, originally the small dwelling
of some Moor, was such as no English gentleman
would venture to assign for his gardener's habitation.
It consisted of four bare walls, with the staircase outside,
and the usual balcony; a kind of stable on the ground-
floor, and the invariable flat roof overhead, on which
clothes were drying. Inside it was divided into three
rooms; the centre one, which alone was entered from
outside, being the sitting-room, where fowls and pigeons,
requiring special care and nursing, disputed with the
family, possession of the apartment. The flat roof was
pervious to rain by reason of age, and constant drop-
pings made us choose our seats with care. A small
sleeping room on the one side, and a lumber room, which
did duty as cellar, granary, &c, &c. on the other, com-
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
141
pleted the ménage; but it was all "their own," and
every one knows how youth and health can rough it,
with these cabalistic words attached.
We had passed that way once before, when the sun
was too low to admit of our halting en route, and they
had kindly sent their servant to show us the nearest
homeward path. On parting in the dell, we had given
him some French tracts, to his great delight, and as we
ascended the opposite hill-side, we could hear him reading
aloud to some cottagers, who came out of their doors
for the purpose. In consequence, we were now received
as old friends, alike by mistress and servant. Eau
sucrée, and their best wine, were forced upon us; and
when we gave her a French Testament-a treasure she
had never possessed before her joy was a pleasure to
see. Pointing to her baby boy, she said, as she pressed
it to her bosom, "It shall be his when he is grown up;'
and when I marked some special passages, she said there
was no need of that, for she should read through every
word again and again! Is it wondrous that these
incidents, of frequent occurrence, should encourage us
to hope that God's truth may be thus disseminated, in
spite of papal opposition?
""
The Jews, too, very readily receive, and assure us they
read, the Hebrew tracts we give them. Some are on
the look-out for one of these little messengers every
Sunday.
Monday, February 22d.-Yesterday, it was announced
to the English congregation that a library had been
formed for their especial benefit, which would be opened
on Friday next. The Tract Society has generously sent
us some valuable books, beautifully bound, and several
friends in England have kindly responded to our requests,
by sending us other books, so that we start with seventy
142
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
volumes. This, it is to be hoped, will form the nucleus
of a standing English library, and be a great advantage
to the residents and visitors here. A subscription library
does already exist, but it consists almost entirely of
novels, the terms being a monthly payment of 3 francs;
I think some of the visitors deem it a duty to themselves
to read as much of this trash as possible to get their
money's worth. The payment in the "English Church
Library" will be per volume from 2d. to 3d., the proceeds
to be applied to the augmentation of the library. It is
to be made the property of the Colonial and Continental
Church Society, and to be managed by a committee, con-
sisting of the Consul, Vice-Consul, Chaplain pro tem.,
and a select number of communicants. Perhaps the
insertion of the rules may be a matter of interest to
intending visitors to Algiers, and may even induce some
of my
readers to send suitable books to be added to the
library. Here, therefore, they are:-
'ENGLISH CHURCH LIBRARY, ALGIERS,
Established, February 26, 1864.
TERMS OF SUBSCRIPTION, PAID IN ADVANCE-
For 3 months
For 6 months
3 francs.
5
For one year
8 ""
Or by the volume from 4 to 6 sous per week.
Time allowed for reading, 1 week.
RULES AND REGULATIONS.
1. That this Library be called, 'The English Church Library,' and be the
property of the 'Colonial and Continental Church Society' of London,
of which Her Majesty the Queen is patroness.
2. That this Library be for the use of British residents in Algiers, and other
subscribers.
3. That the care of this Library be entrusted to the British Chaplain for the
time being, and during his absence to H. B. M.'s Consul General.
4. That no books be admitted into this Library of a religious character
containing doctrines contrary to the doctrinal principles of the Church
of England; and that all books be subject to the approval of the
British Chaplain for the time being.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
143
5. That residents, visitors, and others be invited to contribute suitable
books to this Library.
6. That all subscriptions to the Library be prepaid, and that the funds be
appropriated to the purchase of new books, the repair of old ones, and
to general expenses.
7. That the accounts of this Library be balanced at Christmas in each year,
and that the same be submitted for the approval and signature of
H. B. M.'s Consul General, and that a copy of the same, together with
a list of New Books added to the Library, be transmitted to the
Secretary of the 'Colonial and Continental Church Society.'
8. That persons damaging or losing any Book, shall pay for the same,
or replace it.
9. That a small Committee be appointed from time to time to assist in
carrying out these Rules and Regulations.
NOTE.-1. To prevent disappointment, persons wishing to avail themselves
of the Library are requested to send a list of several books. 2. Subscribers
returning books by servants, are requested to send them under cover.
3. Books exchanged at the Temple every Tuesday and Friday, between
One and Two o'clock."
Wednesday, Feb. 24th.-The long predicted summer
is most coquettish in her advances. On Saturday,
and again on Monday, pitiless rains, and howling
winds, almost forced one into the belief that winter
had again set in for good; but on Monday, and also
yesterday, all nature looked as serene as if tempests
were unknown. The heat in the town of Algiers yesterday
was very oppressive, and for some hours the sirocco was
blowing.
Visited the atelier of MM. Alary and Geiser, whose
photographs of Algeria are well worth inspection. M.
de G., who called to-day, told us he had not visited
England since the peace in 1814, but his impressions
appeared most vivid of all the then living and remarkable
men, most of whom are now in their graves.
described Lord Palmerston as an exceedingly handsome
young man.
He
144
A WINTER IN ALGERIA,
CHAPTER XIV.
PROTESTANT ORPHANAGE.
Croaking of Frogs-Summer Lightning-Opening of the Library-The Duchess
of Malakoff-Marshal Pelissier's Exploits in 1844-Visit to the Orphan
Institution at Dely Ibrahim-Examination of the Boys and Girls-How the
Institution is supported-The Farm-The Objects of the Institution-The
Village of Dely Ibrahim-A Thick Fog veiling the Metidja-Mosle:n
Fast-The Ramadan-Its strict Observance by the Arabs-Landscape
Panorama from our House.
""
Thursday, Feb. 25th.-Wherever "Oft in
the stilly
night was composed, it certainly was not in this
part of the world, in the month of February, 1864.
The dissonant noise arising from the croaking of frogs,
has, within the last few days, become a perfect nuisance.
By day it is bad enough, but in the "stilly night"
it is no exaggeration to say, that it is difficult on the
terrace to hear one's own voice. Even indoors, with the
house shut up, it is like a multiplication of watchmen's
rattles being perpetually sprung under one's window. A
week ago, when our attention was first called to these
creatures, by oral demonstration of their existence, we
discovered two ponds literally teeming with them, and
their coats of brilliant green, so different from the ugly
things robed in tawny brown, which we are accustomed
to see in England, gave one an agreeable surprise. I
hardly think, however, I shall ever knowingly partake of
a fricassée des grenouilles, which, we are assured, is so
great a delicacy, and on account of which many of these
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
145
ponds are purposely stocked with them. To-night
summer lightning is playing, and its flickering -
beautiful always-here seems to sparkle with unwonted
brilliancy.
دو
Friday, Feb. 26th.-The library was opened to-day,
and proved "a decided success. The covering, and
labelling of the books, having only been completed last
night, it was no easy matter to get them down at the
Temple by the appointed time. However, an empty
bullock-cart was fortunately passing, in which the box
was deposited, while G. rode alongside, keeping guard over
the treasure. I walked on as an avant-courier, and had
thereby an opportunity of seeing how wonderfully slow
is the bullock's pace, the four animals, going downhill
did not exceed the rate of two miles an hour. At last
their destination was reached, and the books unpacked.
Several visitors entered their names as subscribers.
Thirty-eight francs were taken on this, the opening day,
which greatly encouraged the ladies who had kindly
undertaken the office of librarians.
An unexpected little ceremony occurred towards the
close. Some gentlemen resolved the visitors present into
a meeting, and, placing Mr. V. in the chair, passed a
vote of thanks to G. for the trouble and expense he had
taken in originating this library, and procuring the books
from England. It was most gratifying. It is to be
hoped that the new library may at least supersede some
of the pernicious literature now in wide circulation
here.
In the afternoon met the Duchess of Malakoff at a
friend's house. We have been honoured with repeated
invitations to the Governor-General's balls, but with every
disposition to be sociable, and to see everything worth
seeing in Algiers, we felt it to be out of the question to
L
146
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
join in amusements in a foreign land, which we should
avoid in England. This has been often commented on
in the English community here, as somewhat singular.
We have been told that clergymen visiting Algeria,
have accepted similar invitations, so why should not we?
The argument did not, however, prevail. We would
willingly have done ourselves the honour of calling, but
learnt from the British Minister, that Marshal Pelissier
only receives on Sundays; so we could do no more than
leave our cards in return. I was therefore glad to-day
to meet Madame la Maréchale, of whom every one
speaks as pleasing. She seemed, I thought, to regard
Algeria as banishment, and has no liking for the inter-
vening sea. She is young compared to the Duke, and
the marriage was a nolens volens affair, made up by
the Empress, after the fair Spaniard had twice refused
him her hand.
As General Pelissier, the Governor was so identified
with Algeria, that he deserved to be banished hither. It
was in 1844 that he suffocated 800 men, women, and
children in a cave in the Darrha, which chivalrous affair,
breaking down as it did pro tem. the spirit of the Arabs,
naturally exalted his fame, and contributed not a few of
the steps which eventually led to his present dignities.
Saturday, Feb. 27th.-Visited Dely Ibrahim, in com-
pany with friends, who were, like ourselves, interested
in the Protestant Orphan Establishment. We first went
over the house appropriated to the boys, who number
at present forty-four, and are instructed not only in
the usual branches of a national-school education, but
are taught somewhat of agriculture, a large farm being
attached to the institution. The long dormitory into
which we were taken by Pasteur Mouline, who has only
recently assumed the office of President, was clean and
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
147
well ventilated. Their poverty is such, arising from the
burden of a heavy debt, that the poor children have been
very insufficiently clothed. Until the other day they had
but forty pairs of sheets, and those old and small. The
blanket, or coverlet on each bed, was an old military
horse-rug. The height at which the establishment
stands, healthy as it is, must have rendered them very
sensitive to the late severe weather. We heard them
examined on Scriptural subjects, but their answers were
not quite as ready as could have been desired. Their
copy-books did more credit to the master, and the general
aspect of the boys was cheerful, and healthy. The cotton
plant is cultivated by them, and they find a ready sale
for the raw cotton at 55 sous the kilogramme, or 1s. 1d.
per lb.*
Resident at the boys' house is a directeur, besides the
schoolmaster, and other officials.
From thence we went to the girls' house, which is in
every respect the larger and better of the two. Here all
the cooking and baking is done for the entire establish-
ment, and the girls are trained in all domestic duties to
qualify them for service. We visited the infant school,
in which there were not, however, many occupants; and
then proceeded to the general schoolroom, where many
busy fingers were plying their needles. It was strange
to see them assembled under Moorish arches, and domes.
The bright young faces were, however, very like those we
were used to see in England, and they were quite as
* The harvest of 1864 has brought them great loss. The cotton has been
a total failure, and the vines, destroyed by flies, and the scorching sirocco,
have only produced nine bordelaises of wine, which is, nevertheless, found
to be of such excellent quality as to encourage the growers. A debt of 8,000
francs is the sad result of this, and other causes, and an urgent appeal for
temporary aid to the Protestant Orphan Asylum at Dely Ibrahim, is now
being made in consequence.
L 2
148
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
ready to do justice to a supply of bon-bons, with which
one of our party had provided himself for the occasion.
We were anxious to hear them examined; and their
answers, as far as they went, were more satisfactory than
those of the boys. A committee of ladies is about to be
formed to superintend the girls' department, and to watch
over them on quitting the asylum; and, doubtless, in
time, under M. Mouline's active presidency, a general
improvement will take place in their affairs.
The two houses, and the grant of land adjoining, have
been all made over to the Dely Ibrahim Orphanage by
Government, which also makes an allowance for each child.
This source of income is supplemented by a small sum
from the Mairie. The report which they placed in our
hands, gives a list of subscriptions and donations collected
during the past year in France, Germany, Switzerland,
and Algeria, amounting to upwards of 1,000l. The farm,
which they have had in hand twenty years, does not
appear to have been well managed. Ninety-six acres are,
however, spoken of as being now under cultivation, and,
perhaps, under an improved direction, their funds will in
time meet their expenditure. At present the cost per
head exceeds that of similar establishments which we
have known in England.
The objects of the orphan asylum, as stated in the
report, are thus expressed: "L'Orphelinat a pour but de
recueillir les enfants Protestants orphelins, ou abandonnés,
de les élever dans les principes de la foi évangélique, de
leur inspirer l'amour du travail, et de leur donner une
profession, en dirigeant principalement leurs goûts vers les
travaux d'agriculture."
It is all important that those who have the direction
of such an institution, should see that its fundamental
principles are maintained, and that its evangelical standard
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
149
should not be a mere name. There should be no room
for suspicion respecting the soundness of the teaching
within its walls, and its evangelical professions should
ever be an exclusion of latitudinarianism on the one hand,
and of Popery and Unitarianism on the other.
The village of Dely Ibrahim was originally built, or,
as the French say, "created," in 1832, when some
Alsacian colonists came over here, and were located by
the Duke of Rovigo in two settlements; this being one,
the other close around the Kouba. As in the early
history of all colonists, they seem to have had great
difficulties to contend with; but now they have provided
themselves with the means of abundant irrigation, and
cultivate grain, tobacco, and the vine, on an extensive
scale. The plateau on which the village stands, must be
very bleak in the winter, being 812 feet above the level
of the sea. It takes in a wide sweep of the Mediter-
ranean, which to-day looked most lovely. The children
at the Orphelinat presented us on parting with bouquets
of wild flowers, which even in this bleak spot grow in
rich profusion, and they make up their posies very taste-
fully. I must not omit to add that the papers have tried
to make the amende honorable for the ungracious notice
respecting the concert. The consul, the French pastors,
and several others, wrote to complain, and the public
prints express their regret at the mistake.
Monday, Feb. 29th.-Yesterday, as we returned from
church, a thick fog veiled the Metidja, and mists were
rapidly flying across from the mountain summits, which
soon reached, and enveloped us, in a mantle more suitable
to Capel Curig, than to El-Biar. All night we had con-
tinuous torrents of rain, and this morning we see the
rivers in the plain beneath, have overflowed their banks
so, as yet, the long-talked-of visit to the interior must
150
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two more.
be postponed. A friend who came up this morning to
breakfast, is ready to go with us, and so also are one or
We hope, therefore, to form a pleasant party
when the weather will permit. Meanwhile, how delicious
it is to feast one's waking eyes every morning, on the
sight of mountains about 7,000 feet high, and on the
intervening campagne as it gradually lights up under an
African sun! The rains here, especially those by night,
do not offer the slightest impediment to pedestrianizing
to one's heart's content.
To-day the Arab keeper of the coffee-house which G.
invaded one Sunday, came to say another Arab who had
seen his Scripture portion in Arabic, wished much to
possess one himself. So here is more bread cast on the
waters, and, if it please God, He can bless the effort. If
compulsory fasting can, as our modern Pharisees say,
ever bring the mind into a right frame for thinking
of holy things, the Arabs ought to be at present pecu-
liarly open to the reception of the truth; for we are just
now in the midst of their Ramadan, or Ramazan, the
great Mahomedan Lent. Indeed, I have sometimes
heard them call it Carême, not out of compliment to
Roman Catholic Christians, whom they greatly dislike,
but probably out of regard to my presumed ignorance.
Ramadan lasts twenty-nine and a half days, and each
year commences ten days earlier than the preceding
season; so that in thirty-six Ramadans, one year is, as
it were, gained. This time it began on the 9th of
February, and will terminate on the 10th of March.
From earliest childhood this fast is rigidly kept from
sunrise to sunset, during which time no food is touched,
water being equally prohibited, even during the hottest
weather. Neither are they allowed to smoke, which
seems here like touching the very life of an Arab; and
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151
!
harder still, they are not permitted even to swallow their
saliva.
The implicit obedience which they yield to these hard
precepts, shows at least the sincerity of these poor, blind
devotees; but, alas! sincerity is no Saviour. St. Paul
verily thought within himself, in his unconverted days,
"that he ought to do many things contrary to the name
of Jesus of Nazareth;" but when his eyes were opened
to see his real state by nature, he based no plea for
pardon on his conscientious sincerity.
A handsome young Arab, who came to-day to ask for
a book, avowed that he felt very weak from his fasting.
I said God did not care whether he eat or not all He
cared for was the state of the heart. He smiled, but
promised to pray for a new heart.
Tuesday, March 1st.-Having nothing worthy of
record to-day, I must make a pen-and-ink sketch of the
beautiful landscape panorama to be seen from our house,
especially from its terraced roof.
From the windows the view is lovely in the extreme,
the surrounding chains of the Lesser Atlas being so
semi-circular in their approach, that from three sides of
the house we look out upon them. From the bedroom
window we see the sun rise each morning behind them,
lighting up the now usually snow-clad peaks of the
Djordjora, then the nearer range, and lastly the plain-
veiled till now in a mantle of grey-with a flood of
glory which makes one's whole soul thrill with ecstacy.
The heavens are generally at that early hour a mass of
orange, purple, crimson, and gold; while each peak, and
crest, and summit of the long chain stand out against the
eastern sky with a vividness of outline, and a depth of
colouring so intense, that in pictures one is apt to discredit
its truthfulness.
152
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
Sometimes the sun has risen behind a thick bank of
cloud, and the first token of his having gone forth in his
strength, will be the sight of his beams, as of a hand
slanting downwards, seemingly transfixed for the moment
between two chains of hills, while the mists are slowly,
sullenly passing off, making one feel as though the
mountains were being balanced under an Almighty
grasp. And soon its rays assert the power of—
"Yon bright orb, which flings
O'er cliff and vale its wealth of rosy smiles.
Each sunbeam seems the very soul of joy ;
No sadness soils it; scattering gladsomeness,
Like a bright angel, onward still it moves."
From the drawing-room we have a calm sea view,
with Cape Matifou stretching away to the right, and
a spur of the receding hills visible in the background.
From the dining-room we have an inland prospect, but
the Atlas again to the left, and here apparently in closer
proximity than from either of the other windows; and
when the snow has wreathed the summits, and sprinkled
the slopes of the purple hills, the picture is beautiful in
the extreme.
But it is upon our upper terrace that I should like-
oh how much to take some friends from whom seas
part us. In fancy I must lead them up through that
narrow staircase, half concealed as all Moorish staircases
are, from sight. And here is not the panorama grand
and varied? We must choose the time when the sun
casts aslant its broadest beams, revealing nooks, and
erags, and precipices in those distant hills, which else we
had not seen, but which add immeasurably to the tone,
and depth, and beauty, of the painting. It is from here
that Mr. Churchill, whose pencil does justice to Algerian
beauties, has most kindly promised to take a picture for
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
153
us in memoriam. Mr. Churchill has quite a large col-
lection of water-coloured drawings, from sketches he has
taken, not only in Algeria, but in Asia Minor, and other
parts of the world. The Tomb of Ezekiel, the Tower of
Babel, and Daniel's Tomb are amongst the less well-
known spots of interest; and I hope he may be induced
some day to allow chromo-lithography to give them to
the world. He particularly excels in grouping his camels,
and his figures are life-like.
To the north-east we will first cast a glance. Over a
sloping foreground of the terrain immediately attached
to the house, we look down upon the outspread bay,
fringed ever with its edge of white, which comes nestling
in under the land, as though rejoicing in the protection
of its wide-encircling arm. Cape Matifou, with its fort
underneath, terminates this guardianship, by throwing
out a long, narrow strip of land; so narrow that, from
where we stand, it looks as though we could easily span
it, and then bathe in a second bay, which is distinctly
seen behind the promontory, or peninsular, and which,
although too small to figure in a denominational aspect
on the map, has nevertheless features of beauty all its
own. How gloriously it shone this morning, like a
mirror, reflecting the bright sunbeams as they scattered
their gold! Behind it again rise, or rather extend, the
everlasting hills, till they fade away in the distance, and
are lost in the blue waters of the Mediterranean.
And then look down on the Kouba, for here it seems
far below us, though in reality seated on an elevation
equal to our own. Mustapha Supérieur lends the charm
of its scattered villas, and Moorish houses, and orange-
trees, and dark, rich green cypresses. Mustapha Inférieur
and the Agha, lie half-concealed in the vale beneath;
and far behind, stretching away to the south, are the
154
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
mountains, of which we never tire, and the snow-white
Djordjora soaring above them. And nearer is the village
of El-Biar, to the south-west, with its picturesque country
houses, and their gardens.
One more peep. Turning our backs on the Kouba, we
face the Boujaréah, and look down on the little bay
rippling in under St. Eugène; and by this time we are
compelled to think of the sun overhead, which is irra-
diating all this enchanting scene, and colouring the sky
with a tint of blue, compared to which our own skies are
leaden; and we find it necessary to beat a hasty retreat
down that narrow staircase, and rejoice in the cool shelter
afforded by the marble-paved halls within. I must not
again transgress with such long descriptions, but this
scenery beguiles one into painting it, whether with
pencil or pen.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
155
CHAPTER XV.
KABYLE DOGS.
Kabyle Dogs-Annoyances from them-Attack on Riders-Bags of Blight-
Flowers-Want of English Books-Scene at Sunset during the Ramadan-
Ceremonial Observances-Domestic Troubles-A Hurricane-Arabs a Lazy
Race—Their Redeeming Qualities—Our Arab Groom-Comfort of Moorish
Houses-A Whale Ashore--Excursion in the Bay-View of the City—
Close of the Ramadan-Effect upon the Arabs-Our Zouave Groom.
Wednesday, March 2d. The pleasure of walking
about in this country, is in no slight degree marred,
by the number of savage dogs with which every one
thinks it necessary to guard their premises. When tied
up they are bad enough, as one is kept in perpetual
alarm regarding the degree of tenacity which the string
may possess; but when loose they are a perfect nuisance
to the wayfarer, who really should almost go armed to
ensure his safety. One can scarcely take blame to one-
self, even when trespassing, for the approaches to these
houses (formerly Moorish habitations, and purposely built
in most out-of-the-way places) are usually so unlike
the trim carriage roads, or footpaths, by which we are
wont to recognise private houses in England, that one
may well mistake them for public cart roads, or by-lanes.
Up one of these I rambled to-day alone, and had just
congratulated myself on having passed a house unnoticed,
and unmolested, when a broad-chested bull-dog came
rushing out upon me, followed by a confrère, whose
pugnacity looked equally indubitable, and backed up by
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A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
a wretched cur, who yelped as loudly as either of his
bigger brothers. I had but a parasol to keep my three
assailants at bay; and how it would have fared with me
I know not, if a servant girl had not come to the rescue,
and beat them off by pelting them with stones.
The strength of these Kabyle dogs is said to lie in
their jaws, and fore feet; and I am in constant terror lest
I should be able to speak experimentally on the point.
The training and education of these dogs must be as
defective as that of most of the population, for they have
neither discrimination, nor discretion. They never dis-
tinguish between friend and foe, and even after a visitor's
knock has been answered by the servants, the furious
barking continues ceaselessly, imperilling one's peace,
not one's safety, while in any degree of proximity.
Riders, too, are pursued by the smaller fry of these
pests, and often the long tails which here are allowed
to adorn the horses, have a small dog pendant, actually
borne along with the tail between its teeth.
if
After my escape from being worried by these canine
foes, I pursued my way through a wood, as by courtesy
it must here be called, and had an opportunity of ob-
serving on a tree uprooted by the wind, the bags of
blight which had before so often passed for birds' nests.
Frequently from a clump of trees fifteen or twenty of
these elegant-looking nests may be seen suspended, each
by a gossamer net, from the high branches, swaying to
and fro in the wind; and often had I longed to obtain
one which might be forsaken by the unknown birds.
And now on a fallen tree I lighted upon one which I
could have carried off in triumph, when I found to my
dismay the "nest" one mass of grubs, and worms, and
caterpillars, which latter were eating their way out of
their gossamer cage. "All is not gold which glitters."
te
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157
I find on inquiry that the gardeners greatly dread them,
and as far as possible destroy them in an earlier stage of
their existence.
The red vetch, of a deep maroon tint, and the orange-
coloured orchises, spotted with a dark velvety-brown, are
now daily added to my bouquets of fleurs sauvages,
which term, by the way, always sounds so unpoetic to
our Anglicized ears. The white bells of the clematis
have been exchanged for long, silky, and exquisitely
beautiful feathering tassels, which sway with every breeze.
Large bunches of the maidenhair fern, I can always
gather from a well in our own garden; so my fond love
for flowers is easily gratified at El-Biar.
Thursday, March 3d.-The Consul kindly added
"My Diary, North and South" to our new English
library to-day; and we have reason to hope that many,
on leaving, will further enlarge it, knowing how much
the want of books is felt when at a distance from Eng-
land. Several visitors to-day, all of whom pronounced
this to be the first day of summer-—vedremo.
How the poor Arabs must long for this weary month of
Ramadan to be over! This evening we watched an
Arab in a coat of many colours, which might have done
duty for Joseph's, standing beside a fountain at which
he dared not drink, with his pipe in his hand, which he
dared not light, face to face with a Frenchman, who
seemed standing beside him with purposeless aim. At
that moment the sunset shot was fired:
"Hark! pealed the thunder of the evening gun;
It told 'twas sunset, and he blessed that sun.”
CORSAIR.
Instantly the pipe of the Mahomedan was lit from that
of his companion, who forthwith went on his way, while
the Arab, turning next to the flowing stream, put his
158
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head underneath, and quaffed, and quaffed, as though
he never could be satisfied. Benighted ones, yet how
faithful to their creed! Is there no one to go to the
nominal Christians around, and, pointing to these obedient
disciples of Islamism, read them the lesson which Jeremiah
was commanded to teach the men of Judah from the
conduct of the Rechabites? Not that Satan in any age,
or any clime, would ever interfere with any mere cere-
monial observances, be they Christian, or pagan, Jewish,
or Mahomedan. Side by side with this, it is almost
painful to listen to the sanctimonious tone in which
wishes are expressed, for "daily morning prayers during
Lent," &c., by those very English who, three times out of
four, absent themselves from Church on the Lord's Day,
and who show no manner of interest in the proffered
means of grace.
Friday, March 4th.-A hot wind last evening, and
again to-day, which they say is sirocco, but, as we stand
some distance from the high road, we have never yet
been annoyed by sand, or dust.
We were warned on arriving here, that the domestic
servants were a sad class, and that we must be prepared
for endless trouble with them. On the whole, we have not
had reason to rank this among our grievances. To-day,
however, we have had a strange scene. A month ago I
engaged a servant to replace one who was taken ill. She
was well recommended, and 35 francs per month with
et ceteras were her wages. Yesterday, on proceeding to pay
her, she said she would tell me "franchement" that she
considered she was worth 40, and that she would accept
no less. Although contrary to one's own views of right
and wrong, I said I would speak to Monsieur on the
subject, and see her again. We agreed, that to save
trouble, we would consent to her demand; but when she
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159
found what she had thus gained, she rated herself higher
still, and informed me she would take no less than 50
francs. On being told that sum was out of the ques-
tion, she flew into such a passion that I let her sleep over
it, and to-day again offered her the 40 francs. Her ire
then knew no bounds; she not only refused to take the
money, but declared she would leave the house instantly,
unless her demands were complied with, and began to pack
up her effects. In vain I reminded her, that she could
not leave under a week's notice. Reasoning was not her
forte, and a gendarme had eventually to be sent for,
whom she at first set equally at defiance; but being
lectured by him, and repeatedly warned that she must
take the 35 francs, "ni plus ni moins," and that if she
left so precipitately, she would forfeit one week's wages,
she cooled down in the most edifying manner, and said
if I would keep her, she should be happy to stay with
me six years!
Our cook cannot read a line. She says there was no
school in her native village in France, and the curé told
her parents it was far better for her not to learn. When
we question the mothers here as to their children's absence
from school, the same response is always given. “They
learn nothing except bad manners. We never send them
but when we want to get them out of the way. If true
Protestant schools, such as that at Fontainebleau, esta-
blished, and superintended by M. Racine Brand,* were
more frequently to be found in France, they would coun-
teract the pernicious effects of the present semi-popish,
semi-infidel teaching.
""
Saturday, March 5th.-Last night we were visited
Reports" and "anecdotes" of this most useful and interesting insti-
tution can always be obtained, on application to Monsieur A. Racine Brand,
Fontainebleau, Seine-et-Marne.
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with such a hurricane, that the hall door upstairs was
repeatedly burst open, and one could fancy it the great
wind from the wilderness, which, as in Job's day, smote
the four corners of the house. But for some such occa-
sional purifying element, the streets, and more particu-
larly the arcades in Algiers, would probably be unbearable.
The last few days of warm weather have made me dread
meeting the bernouse-veiled Arabs in the lanes, where
the air, half-confined by overhanging foliage, becomes at
once more odorous, than agreeable. What must it be
under the aforesaid colonades, where they are constantly
passing, and the arcades (despite M. Lamping's state-
ment) are both low and narrow? He assures us that "the
streets of Bab-Azzoun, and the Marine, are as handsome
and elegant as the Boulevards of Paris!"
All day long Arabs may be seen, on mules and donkeys,
wending their way past El-Biar, to sell their wares-
consisting of charbon and firewood, or more commonly
fan palms and brushwood-in Algiers. To-day we deemed
ourselves most fortunate in capturing two mules'-load of
charbon, en route-an article which it is very difficult
to get at anything of a reasonable rate-without going
down to the Arab's market, which is held every Thursday
at an early hour. Charbon, or charcoal, is the only sub-
stance consumed in the kitchen fire; and is one which
burns most rapidly.
A French gentleman who called to-day, proved himself
to be a most sensible man, by telling me, with all apparent
sincerity, that every one acknowledged England to be
the first country in the world, and even that all the
leading French journals confessed it. I thought it best to
swallow the latter, for the sake of the former statement.
He told us that the Arabs were a most idle, lazy race;
and that they had tried again and again to employ them
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
161
on the public works in vain. They work admirably for
a day or two; then go off, and never again turn up till
money and food become absolute necessities. We had
ourselves engaged an Arab as groom. He did very well
the first day; but the next morning our friend never
made his appearance; and, as far as he was concerned,
the horse might have starved. In the afternoon we met
the gentleman taking a country walk with another Arab,
habited in a spotless white burnouse, brilliant scarlet fez,
and some flowers-in which all Moors take such pas-
sionate delight-jauntily stuck in it; looking altogether,
it must be confessed, rather unfit for stable work. He
quietly wished us "Bon jour," and proceeded to explain
that he had not felt very well that morning; so G.
requested him at once to discontinue an employment,
which was evidently so prejudicial to his health. Our
great hope is to get a soldier. General Yussuf has
given the requisite permission; but so many are being
sent off to Mexico, that soldiers are just now at a
premium.
One ought to paint the bright, as well as the shady side
of the Arab character; and it has often surprised me to
hear testimonies to their remarkable fidelity, and trust-
worthiness in money-matters. A lady who was here all
last winter, told me-and hers was no solitary case-that
she used every night to entrust her Arab with money, to
make purchases in the town, before coming up the fol-
lowing morning. That he always remembered, and exe-
cuted her unwritten orders, for he could not read, and
accounted for every sou. That if by any accident he
was deficient in two or three sous, he would be miserable
all day, till he had set it to rights; and if ever he borrowed
a sou for his own most necessary tobacco out of her
money, he would not rest till his week's wages were due,
M
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and he had repaid it; so virtues and vices are strangely
intermingled in this strange soil.
The little Arab porters, too, in the town, who dodge
one's step in hopes of having some purchases to carry
home, are honestly earning their own livelihood; and so
are the young members of the Shoe-black Brigade, who
lie in wait for you at every corner. The characteristic
portrait of one of them is here given.
Monday, March 7th.-Another hurricane last night,
which shook the house. From our elevated position we
feel every gust; and this might be considered the Temple
of Eolus, were it not that one misses the lullaby which
the sighing, moaning, wailing wind, gives one from behind
Grecian pillars, and porticoes. I am, nevertheless, a convert
to the comfort to be found in Moorish houses, when the
too frequently open central court is glazed over. The
flat terraces are my delight. One can well fancy St. Peter
going up on his house-top to pray. Of an evening, to go
out on one of these terraces, without the usual preparation
for a walk, to feel the bright star-bespangled heavens
above one, and all nature below so still, is a luxury which
we never cease to prize. The starlight nights we have
here, are certainly unknown in England.
To-day the blue bay is rolling in, crested with sea-
horses, or moutons, as our French friends with equal
reason call them, and the steamer, which should have
arrived this morning, has not yet come in, a sign of a
storm out at sea. A whale, too-an unusual visitant-
has just been captured, and all Algiers is running down
for a peep at the monster, as he lies extended lifeless on
the beach below. Whether he was driven in by stress of
illness, as the sailors imagine, seems
uncertain, but no time was lost in getting him medical
advice, for he was at once bought up by the medical
weather, or from

K
Th
A YOUNG ARAB SHOE-BLACK.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
163
school, and assigned a place in their museum. General
Yussuf has granted 200 soldiers to assist in cutting him
up, and his captors are well satisfied with his yield
of oil.
Wednesday, March 9th.-A sail on the water to-day
for three hours; but our little cockle-shell of a boat was
too small for enjoyment. One of our party wanted to go
to St. Eugène, and the wind being dead against us, it was
a series of short tacks, shipping water at every turn.
A
gentleman who amused himself in dredging, and brought
up some beautiful specimens of marine life, told us that
this pursuit was accomplished easier here than in Madeira,
the rocks at the latter place rendering it far more
difficult.
I tried to picture the Pirate-City as it must have looked
from the sea, before the French invasion, but the immense
increase of modern buildings, especially in the lower part
of the town, involved, the necessity of a wide stretch of
imagination. Each year it will be more and more so;
those, therefore, who wish to have any idea of its past,
should not delay their visit, till the Moorish dwellings
have all passed into the hands of Gallic owners. All the
Moors whitewash their habitations, alike internally and
externally, at least once a year; some even three or
four times; and this, under a bright sun and blue skies,
produces a dazzling effect, especially with a city set on a
hill, and which rises out of the bosom of the sea.
Half-way up the town I could trace a sort of curved
line, something like two wings outspread, of houses which
French windows and blinds had not invaded. This was
the Arab quarter. The seemingly roofless habitations,
for the flat terraces cannot be seen from beneath, the
pigeon-holes, or port-holes-for they cannot be called
windows-in the walls, and the marble-like whiteness of
M 2
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the whole, combined to give one an idea of what Algiers
must have been, when the residence of its proud Deys,
and when modern fortifications, boulevards, hotels, and
other Gallic innovations were unknown. I observed three
or four seeming fractures in the massive masonry at the
end of the jetty, where some dozen guns were planted,
and on pointing them out, was told that the discharge of
the said guns, on the occasion of Prince Napoleon's visit,
had occasioned the rent. This does not speak highly of
its strength. The huge blocks of stone, placed alongside,
look from a distance as if thrown down in strange con-
fusion, yet in edgeway regularity. On a closer inspection
we found them to be of artificial stone, formed of a con-
glomerate of sand and gravel. Each block weighs several
tons. This mass is needed for the protection of the
Harbour. A pier is to be built as soon as a sufficient
foundation has been obtained.
As we neared the harbour in returning, the report of a
gun was heard, to the immense satisfaction of our Arab
boatman, who exclaimed that Ramadan was now over!
On inquiry we found this was the commencement of
Bairam, the grand festival which closes the Ramazan, and
in honour of which, all the mosques are open to-night for
strangers, who go chiefly for the sake of seeing the effect
of the numerous coloured lamps which are lit up for the
occasion,
To-night set Ramazani's sun,
To-night the Bairam's feast's begun."
GIAOUR.
March 10th.-Visitors to-day who had just come from
the Jardin d'Essai, reported the gardens to be alive with
Moors, all in their gayest costumes, in honour of this
great three days' fête, following on their compulsory fast.
A dangerous time this is said to be amongst the Arabs.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
165
They have laid in so large a stock of merit by observing
Ramazan, that they are now ready and ripe for any
mischief.
We have been fortunate enough, thanks to the kind
offices of a friend with General Yussuf, to obtain the
services of a Zouave as groom. All the officers in Algiers
are allowed the privilege of having one or more soldiers,
according to their rank, to assist in the cultivation of
their land, or for whatever employment they may require
them. This, however, is a favour rarely extended now to
colonists being civilians; in our case, therefore, it was
a very special grace, and one for which, considering the
difficulty of getting a man living near, to come and attend
to the horse, we are duly grateful. The scarcity of day
labourers is a want greatly complained of in the colony,
and accounts for the number of red trousers (here we do
not talk of "red jackets") everywhere to be seen engaged
in tillage, and which at first greatly puzzled us.
Our Zouave, observing the bridle-a hired one-to be
defective, sat down unbidden, within half an hour of his
arrival, to mend it, and did the job as handily as any
saddler could have done it. We knew him well by sight,
from having before offered him books, which, alas! he
was unable to read. I wonder if he will let me teach
him. The work one hears of as progressing amongst the
French army, is a great cause for thankfulness but I am
afraid, when in Algeria, the opportunities of the soldiers
are but few.
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CHAPTER XVI.
SUNRISE.
An African Sunrise-Effects seen from our Windows-The Plain of the
Metidja-Visit to a Moorish Cemetery-Arab Mode of Interment-Arab
Dogs-Story of Omar and his Sister-Bronze Baby-Change of Weather
-Fall from a Horse-The Colporteur-A Scorpion-Insect Life.
Friday, March 11th.-It is somewhat trite to attempt to
describe the glories of daybreak, for sunrise is everywhere
beautiful, and poets have sung, and artists immortalized its
splendour, for now some thousand years; yet an African
sunrise such as we see, or might see, every morning,
certainly boasts unwonted beauties. To-day I was shown
a picture, taken from near this spot, representing that fleet-
ing hour: the whole sky one deep roscate hue, and the sun
just bursting up, as we see it daily, behind the Djordjora,
irradiating the bay, the mountains, the plain, and finally
the garden beneath our windows,---its walks sheltered by
orange-trees. It brings so often to mind Bonar's lines,
"See daylight far above us,
Tinging each cloudy wreath,
Ere it shower itself in splendour
Upon the plain beneath.
'Tis sparkling on the mountain-peak,
'Tis hurrying down the vale,
"Tis bursting thro' the orange-boughs,
"Tis freshening in the gale.
'Tis mingling with the river's smile,
"Tis glistening in the dew,
'Tis flinging far its silver net,
O'er ocean's braided blue.
*
*
*
X
*
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167
Oh! the gay burst of beauty
That is flushing over earth,
And calling forth its millions.
To holy morning mirth!"
The plain of the Metidja, upon a part of which we
looked down, is as level as a cricket-field, on a somewhat
large scale. It is enclosed between the north slope of
the Lesser Atlas, and the Sahel, upon which latter the
metropolis is built, and which extends for miles around
Algiers, in a series of ridges, and rocky elevations, broken
here and there by ravines, where Nature delights to show
her wild and exuberant vegetation. The arms of the
Lesser Atlas enclose the valley of the Metidja, as in a
semicircular embrace, and the Metidja in its turn
embraces the Massif, or chain of Algiers, as the Sahel is
sometimes called. Its protecting hills on each side, rise
abruptly from its bosom, with scarcely an intervening
slope. This plain touches the sea on either side of the
metropolis; to the east near the fort of Maison Carée,
and to the west near Cherchel, which was formerly in the
province of Oran.
The valley, or plain, is 45 miles long, and 14 or 15
wide, well watered by the rivers Harrach and Massafran.
The former is a noble river, and falls into the Mediterra-
nean, by an estuary from 150 to 180 feet broad. The
course of the Massafran is about 108 miles long. The
Metidja might, therefore, be expected under this genial
sun, to be a perfect paradise. Previous to the French
conquest in 1830, it appears to have been something of
the kind, since upwards of twenty thousand Moorish
villas, and farms, are said to have adorned its verdant
surface. Now, alas! it is usually barren; and though well
cultivated in parts near the mountains, is stated by those
who knew it before the overthrow of the proud Moslem
power, to be as a desert in comparison. Where Arab
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hamlets exist, they are surrounded by the impenetrable
cactus, or Barbary figs, and guarded by savage Arab dogs.
We are told that the original purport of these hedges of
cactus, and aloe, was to ward off the approaches of wild
beasts, which devastated the then flourishing agricultural
establishments. Now, the goats, with their tinkling bells,
may be seen browsing on the spikey aloe, as though it
were planted solely to provide them with fodder.
Still the Metidja is beautiful to look down on from a
distance, where barren sands and unhealthy marshes, if
they still exist, cannot be detected. The houses which
dot its plain, are everywhere white, and glistening in the
sunbeams; and hemmed in as it is by the encircling
hills, it presents a contrast upon which the eye loves to
look down, though it is more pleasant to live above it.
The snow, now lying in wreaths, or rising in mists from
amidst the Atlas range, and capping the summit of the
Djordjora, adds considerably to the charm of the scene.
Saturday, March 12th.-A rainy afternoon. N.E.
wind. Thunder and lightning to-night; recorded lest
our friends at home should think this too perfect a
paradise. Saw a Spanish boy to-day, on whose head not
a single hair has ever appeared since his birth.
Visited the Moorish cemetery, one of our favourite
haunts. It must formerly have been of immense extent,
but its limits are now circumscribed enough, and without
the city walls. It looks down about a part of the Al-
Jezira of yore, now so rapidly becoming only the Algiers
of the present. There is something touching in every-
thing which speaks of departed grandeur. I cannot say
greatness, for real greatness refuses to associate in my
mind, with any historical reminiscences of the former
masters of Algiers. Still, here they ruled and reigned;
and here they sadly laid their dead, for hearts will beat
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169
and bleed, even under that philosophic shroud-like Arab
mantle. And then to find it down-trodden, and the few
graves which are allowed to remain, shoved into an out-
of-the-way corner behind the prison, tinges one's own
feelings with sympathetic sadness, as one sees the veiled
mourners softly, timidly bending over the narrow homes
of their departed. I say narrow, I might add short; for
when first we came upon this hill-side cemetery, planted
as it is with roses, geraniums, and other flowers, I thought
it a garden consecrated as a burying-place for little
Moslems. I should say, without measuring, that no
grave exceeds four feet in length. The Moorish women
usually are diminutive, but how do they manage with
their tall lords?
In the preparation of the corpse for interment, some
of their superstitions are displayed, by their care in
closing up every aperture by which an evil spirit could
enter. Eyes, nose, ears, and mouth are securely fastened
with cotton-wool. Thyme, mint, wormwood, leaves of
the indigenous bay-tree, and the many sweet-scented
herbs with which the neighbourhood abounds, are pro-
fusely scattered in sprigs upon, and around the deceased.
Incense is an indispensable adjunct to these ceremonies.
All being duly performed, the body is wrapped in a
white muslin winding-sheet, and somewhat resembling
a mummy, is placed on a sort of litter, or large open
chest.
Till the French occupation, coffins were unknown ;
even yet they are not in general use. Earth and stones
are thrown over the corpse, the oule-mah, or Mahomedan
priest, reads some prayers, and it is then left to its fate.
The extent of the display used on the occasion of these
obsequies, varies, of course, according to the rank of the
deceased. If poor, the white muslin only is seen on the
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rude bier. If rich, golden girdles, embroidered robes,
even carpets, curtains, or silken fabrics, are thrown over
the corpse. Only as a loan, however, for the relatives
carefully remove all these needless appendages on reach-
ing the cemetery. The monotonous chanting which we
used so frequently to hear when residing on the hill-side,
leading to the Moorish place of interment, is an accom-
paniment never omitted, save amongst the very poorest.
At the head and foot of the grave, two stones mark its
length, and over the mound, at each end, two narrow
ledges of stone are laid, with round holes cut out, appa-
rently for flower-pots. These are for vessels to hold
water, and they are left duly filled, when the funeral rites
are over. Some bread is also left, and the following
night, the spirit, if satisfied and happy, will, they believe,
come and partake of the prison-fare they have left for
him. If he does not, it must still remain, until the dogs,
the elements, or some passers-by, have made away with it
for him. This achieved, the relatives find consolation in
his supposed happiness.
Some of the tombs are of brick, plastered over and
whitewashed. Some are ornamented with little domes,
or cupolas, but all laid the same way. To insure future
bliss, the face must always be turned towards Mecca.
Again, I can only say, O! that the Truth might shine on
these benighted ones!
Monday, March 14th. Our promised "summer" has
been very brief so far. "Cold and rainy," must needs
be my entry. Nevertheless, with a friend, I explored
the Ravin de la Femme Sauvage, usually a sultry hollow.
To-day we could make no complaints on this score. The
wild-thyme here is abundant, and much larger than what
we see in England. Heather, too, we found on the
common, near the Château d'Hydra. But all beauty was
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
171
veiled to-day by the absence of the sun. How similar
the results, alike in the moral, physical, and spiritual
world, when sunshine is wanting!
We had another encounter with those savage dogs;
why will people keep them? Fortunately this discovery of
the stone remedy, stood us now, as always, in good stead.
I do regard it as a special mercy that dogs have the
organ of voice, and always announce their intended
onsets, though I cannot so contentedly endorse Dr. Watts's
sentiments as to their biting. My friend had lately a
very narrow escape from this their "delight," and was
only saved by her crinoline, till assistance was procured.
I think it just to mention this slight testimony, to the
value of these much-calumniated articles of dress.
She also told me of a case which had occurred a
previous winter, of one of these Kabyle dogs setting
upon a poor lady, who died in consequence. That is to
say, the fright induced an illness from which she never
recovered.
It is wonderful to see the effect of the termination of
Ramadan upon the spirits of the Arabs. We had an
Arab just in advance of us for some distance, escorting
his white-veiled wife on her donkey. From time to time
he fell in with groups of other Arabs coming towards us,
and the joyous salutations on each occasion, plainly told
of some occasion of rejoicing. They literally "fell on
each other's necks, and kissed." Not as we perform the
ceremony, however, for while the arms most affectionately
encircled the person embraced, the kiss was invariably
given on the shoulder. His wife's side could only mo-
mentarily be quitted, so there was no time for the loud,
harsh, guttural greetings, which would else have been
heard, but the smiles which wreathed all those swarthy
features, were most remarkable.
Uor M
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Now that Ramadan is over, I have been promised by a
friend the sight of some Moorish weddings. To-day I
saw the trousseau for one pass, being borne in richly-
gilded, and ornamented chests, slung across horses and
mules. The customs of these Mahomedans are very
curious. A lady, who had an Arab in her employ, told
me that he one day brought her up his little sister, a
pretty child of ten years old, to show her charms. He
permitted her to unveil in the house, although not only
the lady, but her husband, was present. She danced when
alone with the former, but on her being asked to perform
again before the gentleman, the brother would not permit
it at any price, though he allowed the child to kiss him.
Later in the day the lady let her maid take the little girl
for a walk, and the veil was not thought of. But when
this piece of unheard-of impropriety reached her brother's
ear, his grief, anger, and indignation knew no bounds.
Alternately he scolded the child, who wept bitterly, and
pathetically appealed to his mistress to know how she
could have permitted so gross a violation of all rules
of decorum. When asked wherein was the great harm,
"Oh! madame," he replied, "we shall never marry her
now!"
His conduct, on another occasion, showed the difficulty
of preaching the Gospel amongst this benighted people.
Engaged as indoor servant-where his probity was fully
tested, by being often left alone in the room with valu-
ables, when nothing was ever touched-it had been ar-
ranged that he was to have his meals in the house, but no
persuasion could induce him to touch meat. As he was very
weak, and lazy, our friend thought it might be the conse-
quence of his abstinence, and so frequently urged him to
take meat, by showing the folly of his scruples, that Omar
reluctantly yielded. After a time he asked leave to go
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173
and visit his Marabout, or priest, for a purpose somewhat
akin to confession. Upon his return, he avoided the
presence of his lady as much as possible, and this con-
tinued day after day, till she taxed him with it, and
demanded the reason. With much hesitation, Omar at
length informed her, that his Marabout had severely
reprimanded him for eating her meat, and had desired
him to kill her, for having tempted him to evil! To
re-assure her, however, he added, "but don't be afraid,
madame, Omar will not kill you," which comforting as-
surance he reiterated every time he saw her, for several
days after. Not much fear had she, or any other resident
in French Algeria on this score, but it gives an idea
of the bigotry which encrusts Mahomedanism,
I saw to-day the very loveliest specimen of a dark,
bronze-coloured baby which could be imagined. A
sculptor might have envied the model. Alliances fre-
quently take place between the negresses and the Turks,
and their offspring are usually of a dark copper-colour.
In infancy the hue is that of the most beautiful bronze.
Tuesday, March 15th.-The beginning of last week
"tout le monde et sa femme," which means the greater
part of the English, having counted upon the setting in
of summer, started for Blidah and the interior, leaving
the Hotel d'Europe desolate. For the last four or five days,
however, we have had cold March north-easterly winds,
accompanied by constant rains, and sometimes storms
of thunder, and lightning, so an African winter knows
no exemption from the vicissitudes everywhere in fashion.
Still, we cannot complain, with letters from Egypt telling
of ice at Suez, and the thermometer below freezing point
in the middle of January. The former is said to be a
phenomenon, never before experienced on the borders of
the Red Sea. Then, too, details of the skating on the
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Arno at Florence, of the falls of snow at Naples, of the
intense severity felt at Nice, and I must not exempt.
Spain, from whence similar news has arrived, warrant the
hope which I hear confidently expressed by the residents,
that the superiority of this climate having been thus
clearly established, by comparisons of the winter 1863-4
here, and elsewhere, visitors may next year be expected to
resort to Algiers in search of health. This winter, there
has certainly been a great falling off on the influx of the
two previous seasons. Yet here ice has 'been unheard of,
and a real fall of snow unseen. One morning in January
a slight sprinkling made an unsuccessful effort to descend.
Mais voilà tout.
Wednesday, March 16th.-Saladin having established
his character as a trustworthy animal, it was settled that
I was to ride him to-day, G. accompanying me, on a hired
barb. This latter proved to be a less manageable steed,
and, in riding fast downhill, the stirrup gave way, and G.
was thrown. Providentially no serious injury has been
sustained, but the left arm and side are much bruised.
This is an unfortunate beginning to the equestrian exer-
cise, to which I had so long been looking forward. The
Zouave is so attentive and orderly. I hope we may be
allowed to keep him as long as we remain here.
Saturday, March 19th.-G. is beginning to be able to
move about, after having been a prisoner for the last
three days. The effects of the fall have been felt more
severely, than we at first apprehended; but we must be
thankful it was no worse. Had he fallen a couple of
feet further on, his head would have come in contact
with a rock.
We are now making arrangements for employing a col-
porteur, hoping for aid from friends in England. To-day
cold water was thrown on the project, by one who I
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175
am sure would rejoice in the wide circulation of the
Scriptures, but who to our amazement, quietly said he
thought all who wished to have Bibles, probably had
them already. G. reminded him that although it may
be a safe maxim in political economy, that the demand
creates the supply, yet that the converse held true in
religious economy, viz. that the supply is needed, to create
a demand; and that men have first to be led to the
fountain of life, and induced to hold the cup to their lips,
before they will ever come, and ask for a draught of the
life-giving stream. A prolonged residence in a place like
this, except vigorous aggressive efforts for the Master's
sake are engaged in, appears to lead, if not to an apa-
thetic frame of mind, yet to one easily discouraged. The
Rev. W. Ginsbury, missionary of the London Society for
Promoting Christianity amongst the Jews, called to-day,
on his way back to Constantine, where he has been
labouring for nearly seven years. We were truly glad
to find that Algiers is to be for the future, his sphere of
work.
That this place presents a central point, of increasing
importance for missionary operations, is a thought which
impresses itself much upon the mind. There is here in
many respects a most important opening for the spread
of the Gospel.
One of the drawbacks to a hot climate, is the prolific
extent of insect and reptile life. Ants have been always
our foes. In Algiers we had the tiniest specimens of the
red ants, which could well be imagined. Here we have
the common ants infesting the kitchen, and even making
occasional raids into the bedrooms, where other assailants
are more assiduous than welcome, in their visits. But
the climax was reached this evening, by finding a scorpion,
whose dreaded sting is in its tail, in the dining-room;
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and this on the first floor. The servant, who took the
incident very coolly, and seemed to think it nothing at
all out of the way, deliberately lifted it up with the tongs,
and terminated its existence, by shaking it off into the
fire.
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177
CHAPTER XVII.
DOUBLE RAINBOW.
Polish Princess-Double Rainbow-Value of the Wild Geranium-Zouave
and the Hamiltonian System-Mr. Ginsburg and a Learned Moor-Autho-
rization of Colporteur-Fête-Storm-French Government Vessels-Arab
Laziness-Orange Blossoms-The Astronomer Imperial.
Monday, March 21st.-Amongst the departures this last
week, has been that of a poor Polish princess, who has
been travelling for her health. The doctors in Paris.
had considered amputation of the leg necessary, but,
fortunately for her, were afraid to perform the operation
in her enfeebled state. Algiers was recommended for
its climate; hither accordingly she came, and found
a French surgeon under whose skilful treatment, not
only has her health been greatly restored, but the limb
so far saved. She was beginning to move about, and
had even walked up two flights of stairs at a time, when
her furlough-for poor Poland is under a universal
military rule-expired.
She had written to the Emperor of Russia, stating
her case, and earnestly imploring permission to absent
herself a little longer till her convalescence was com-
plete. The Governor-General, the Duke of Malakoff,
had likewise petitioned the Czar in her behalf; and even
the ex-King of Bavaria, now on a visit to this place, had
written to his Imperial brother to ask for some extension
of her leave of absence. But the said Imperial brother,
N
178
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the tender-hearted father of his beloved subjects, turned
a deaf ear to each appeal, and nolens volens the poor
Princess had to leave.
The most glorious double rainbow I ever saw, we
witnessed last evening; not an evanescent glory, as
such sights usually are, but continuing for upwards of
twenty minutes, previous to the setting of the sun, and
not only perfect the whole time, but increasing in intense
and indescribable splendour. One could not but feel
awe-struck. The left foot of the arc rested on a high
mamelon of the Sahel, covered with rich verdure of
emerald green, that seemed almost on fire from the
reflection of its lustre which streamed down the field.
Underneath we had a peep of the blue sea; overhead
the second are, which faithfully, but inversely mirrored
the colours of the first. The whole sky overhanging the
Bay seemed set in a dazzling frame, so defined were the
tints of the bow, which planted its right foot on the
Great Kabyle Mountains; its attendant counterpart
keeping silent guard around. But light is ever silent-
"Most silent of all heavenly silences;
Not even the darkness stiller, nor so still;
Too swift for sound or speech, it rushes on
Right thro' the yielding skies a massive flood
Of multitudinous beams; an endless sea,
That flows but ebbs not, breaking on the shore
Of this dark earth, with never-ccasing wave,
Yet in its swiftest flow, or fullest spring tide,
Giving less sound than does one falling blossom,
Which the May-breeze lays lightly on the sward."
Our gardener told us that in Italy, his own sunny
land, he had sometimes seen even a triple rainbow, but
none brighter than this one. I could almost fancy it
"the rainbow round about the Throne, in sight like unto
an emerald." A friend, whose life has been spent in
hot countries, remarked to-day that it had given him
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179
quite a feeling of awe; so the brilliancy must have been
something peculiar.
G.'s cure is rapidly progressing, thanks to his scientific
applications. As is invariably the case whenever an
accident occurs, all the visitors who have kindly called
to inquire, have, each one, met with, or known of, similar
disasters. Few things give one a more realizing idea of
the electro-sympathetic chord which certainly pervades
the universe, making "the whole world kin." The most
recent case of fellow-suffering is that of a French cavalry
officer, who about the very same time, met with a similar
accident, in a precisely similar manner; viz. from his
stirrup giving way. Curious to say, G. has undertaken
to expedite this officer's cure, being something of an
amateur practitioner; and had he only been as perse-
vering in the use of the right means, as G. was in
prescribing them, he might perhaps have been well by
this time as it is, I fear his case will be the worst of
the two.
At the foot of the Alps, where sprains and bruises so
frequently occur, the peasants know full well the healing
virtue of their mountain arnica. It is strange how few
in England know the equally efficacious properties of the
herb Robert, or crane's bill, or wild geranium, as it is
severally denominated. English arnica" it is often
called by those who know its value, and well does it
merit its name.
66
On our last visit to North Wales, one of our party in
botanizing having accidentally squirted the white juice
of the golden saxifrage into his eye, inflammation imme-
diately ensued, and became so violent that a return home
was proposed, and seemed inevitable, although a pic-nic
was awaiting us on the top of one of the hills. The
herb Robert was fortunately thought of, and found. A
N 2
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cottage was at hand, whence boiling water was obtained,
and a decoction made. Fomentation cloths were ex-
temporized by means of a pocket-handkerchief, and in
less than a quarter of an hour the inflammation was
subdued, and we started for the hill-top.
A more striking example, however, occurred in the
case of a lady who fell and struck her knee, which soon
became so painful that the family medical attendant was
summoned. All his skill was exerted, but day by day
her sufferings increased. He wished to call in further
advice, and sent first for one, then a second to aid his
counsels. Still the poor sufferer grew worse, until one
day after consultation had, the three medicos sought
her husband, to inform him of a painful fact which they
could no longer withold, that amputation alone could
save her life, so violent was the inflammation, and to
such a height had it attained. Poor Major C. was forced
to acquiesce, and early the following morning was fixed
for the operation. The mournful secret was entrusted
to the nurse, but no sooner had the medicos departed,
than her previous experience in simples, decided her on
taking the case in her own hands, and throwing all their
nostrums to the winds. She accordingly sent out and
had gathered, a quantity of this said herb, and applied
fomentations, and poultices of the same, alternately the
live-long night. At 8 o'clock the following morning
the doctors arrived; the limb was inspected, and, to the
amazement of the intending operators, the inflammation
was subdued to an extent, which they considered little
short of miraculous. Herb Robert saved the patient.
Only yesterday, I induced our Zouave to take his first
lesson in reading, in spite of his protestations that it was
"trop tard," and a hopeless affair at the advanced age of
thirty-four. Before half-an-hour's instruction on the
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181
Hamiltonian system was over, he had not only picked
out most of his letters with singular aptitude, but a per-
ception had dawned upon his mind that the attainment
of reading was really within his reach; and he listened
with evident interest to the whole chapter of John i. of
which he had made out a few verses. He promised before
next Sunday to collect some of his camarades, who would,
he said, be glad to learn to read. I feel now so thankful
that we broke ground even to this small extent, for this
morning brought an order summoning him in to his
Commandant, and on his return he told us the tristes
nouvelles that his regiment was ordered to prepare for
foreign service (he concludes Mexico) at an hour's notice.
Orders had come from head-quarters, that all soldiers who
were detached, were at once to return to their regiment.
He came to bid us good-bye this evening with evident
regret, bringing one of his comrades to introduce to us.
When I offered him a New Testament, on condition
that he would try and learn to read it, he said it was just
what he had been longing to ask for; and that he was
sure now, he could easily get some one to teach him.
Only yesterday, he was sure it was impossible to learn.
I felt at the time, when he showed such quickness in dis-
tinguishing the letters, that it was in answer to prayer ;
but I little thought I should never have another oppor-
tunity of reading with and talking to him. "Whatsoever
thy hand findeth to do, do it with thy might," is surely a
lesson which each day's experience engraves upon the
heart.
Tuesday, March 22d.-The vineyards just now are
carpeted with the most glorious mosaic, although as unlike
what their owners eventually desire to see them, as a
flower-garden to a potato-field. Mignionette, scarlet
poppies, and flowers of every shade, in blue, and gold, and
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lilac, and white, contend for the mastery in point of
height, while the modest little crimson vetch, and blue
convolvulus, creep along the ground. New orchises are
now repaying one's search, and, in addition to the bee,
and beetle, and fly orchis, I found to-day one quite un-
known to me. The back of the mock insect was a bright
blue, its sides of a brownish gold, and the most elegant
wings of brown velvet sprang from the same; its antlers
and head, even to its eyes, were equally deceptive, and I
have placed it in the midst of a bouquet, where it rests,
and appears to feed on a mass of geraniums.
Yesterday, M. Ginsberg breakfasted with us, and gave
us a most interesting account of his late visit to Morocco.
He is an elegant Arabic scholar, and thoroughly con-
versant with the ways of Arabs, Moors, and Mahomedans
generally. He had much intercourse while there, with
one of the most cultivated and intelligent Moslems
whom, he says, he ever met, who had been resident in
England, where he had refused the post of Ambassador
at St. James's, which the Emperor of Morocco had wished
to confer upon him. Bou-hallah asked him one day,
which religion he thought would ultimately prevail, and
cover the whole earth?
"Which do you think?" returned M. Ginsberg.
66
66
Oh, certainly that of Mahomet.”
Well, that is the very last I should have named."
"Why so?" asked Bou-hallah.
"I will give you my reasons.
Eleven hundred years
ago a great man appeared on the earth. He married
many wives, all of them of noble families, which greatly
extended, and strengthened his own powerful connexions.
He was very rich, had many horses, and lived in great
state. This man proclaimed that he was commissioned
by God to establish a new religion. He did so by force,
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183
by the influence of his name, and by that of his adherents.
After his death, his followers went far beyond him in
propagating his tenets with the edge of the sword, over-
running whole countries, and compelling submission to
the Prophet, or instant death.
Seven hundred years before the birth of Mahomet,
another man had appeared on earth, likewise saying that
he was sent from God with a message to sinners. This
man had no family connexions, no wives, no horses, no
riches. Often he had not where to lay his head. He
gathered disciples around him, but they were but poor
fishermen. He never made a convert by force, and
expressly forbad his followers to do so, saying, "they that
take the sword shall perish with the sword." Finally,
this man was put to a cruel and ignominious death, being
crucified by the Jews as a common malefactor. Eighteen
hundred years have since rolled away.
What has become
of the religion he came to proclaim?
66
'England, which you confess to be greatest among the
nations, opens her Parliament with prayer offered in the
name, and for the sake of this man. France, which claims
to be the most civilized country in Europe, has always
prided herself on the title "Most Christian." Spain,
however little she may have of the spirit of Christ, boasts
in a profession of His Name. Russia, whose territory
covers nearly half the continent of Europe, will scarcely
permit a dissentient voice in the matter; all her subjects
glory in the name of Christ. All Germany, and Italy,
and many other countries, claim to follow the Crucified
One.
Now look at Spain, and other countries in Europe,
once overrun with fire, and sword, by the followers of the
Prophet. How many of the adherents of Mahomet are
to be found, since the pressure of force has been removed?
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A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
And even here, and in Asia, where the Arabs are still
devoted to your Prophet, can you point out any feature
in Mahomedanism, which is likely to recommend it to
other nations, or any elements in itself likely to make it
ultimately prevail? Did you ever know two Arabs who
really loved one another? Is it not so, that if you are
known to take an Arab into your confidence, and friend-
ship, at once some other Arab will warn you to beware
of trusting him? 'He is a liar-he will deceive you—
he will rob you,' and so on. Now, in the religion of Jesus
Christ, He taught, 'By this shall all men know that ye
are My disciples, if ye have love one to another.' And it
is this love which exists between the Lord Jesus and His
people, and which His people have towards each other,
which helps to spread the true knowledge of His name.
"Well," returned Bou-hallah, "this is the first time in
my life any one ever talked to me in this way. And yet
is it not strange that I should have lived five years in
Christian England, and that no one ever once spoke to
me on the subject of religion?"
Strange, indeed!
""
Yet not strange, if he never made
the acquaintance of any who were Christians in more
than name;
if he only mingled with the world, and met
those only who had no tale to tell of love which had
bought them, and love which now kept them, and which
warmed their hearts in responsive love to Him, and nerved
them to speak for His Name. But it is a reproach; and,
conscious as we all must be how many opportunities we
let escape us, it is well to ponder Bou-hallah's inquiry,
"Is it not strange that I should have lived five years in
Christian England, and that no one ever once spoke to
me on the subject of religion ?"
Thursday, March 24th.-The prefet, M. Mercier la
Combe, has promised to place no obstacle in the way of
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185
our employing a colporteur here. The authorization is to
be made out at once, and a suitable man will commence
his work on Monday next.
An incidental appreciation of the tracts distributed, is
now frequently shown by the exclamation, "Oh, you
have given me this one already. Can you change it for
another?" Sometimes, too, the people mention passages
which have struck them.
M. Mercier is a most liberally-minded man, although
a Roman Catholic. The only restriction on the sale, or
distribution of the Bible here, is that which regards the
Arabic version, which at present is strictly prohibited ;
the authorities being fearful of the Arabs making it a
pretext for revolt; but in time I hope this remaining
difficulty may be removed. As late as last year, the
Hebrew and other versions were forbidden, but M. Gins-
berg's persevering efforts, seconded by those of Mr. Bell,
the late British Consul here, were successful in getting
them removed. He gave us an amusing account of some
of his interviews with the powers that be at Constantine.
One of these gentlemen, taking up M. Ginsberg's Hebrew
Bible, said, “But are you quite sure that this is an exact
translation?
وف
My cook has just informed me that this being "fête,"
she can do no manner of work to-day, beyond what is
absolutely needful; and that as to going into Algiers to
buy anything, it is out of the question. I thought at
first she had mistaken this for Good Friday; but the
sanctity of the day was simply owing to its being declared
fete by the Church. The command to keep holy the
Sabbath, being only to be found in God's Word, and not
so appointed by the Church, may be broken without the
smallest scruples. Full well may it be said to these poor
people, who are as sheep going astray without a shepherd,
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A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
"Ye do err, not knowing the Scriptures." The priest
here is still sadly annoyed by the distribution of the
Testament and tracts, and tries now to induce nominal
Protestants to represent it to us as a breach of courtesy.
Monday, March 28th.-Yesterday was the first Sunday
this winter that I have been detained at home by stress.
of weather. M. Desmarquoy told us on Saturday that
rain was greatly needed; and certainly there has been no
lack of it for the last forty-eight hours. The thunder
and lightning last night were fearfully grand, and reverbe-
rations, prolonged amidst the surrounding hills, such as
we had not heard before. The jugs and basins actually
jingled under each crash, as if a railway train were passing
over the house. With it all, however, the cold is neither
intense nor bitter, though it was very difficult to-day to
maintain one's footing, so violent was the hurricane,
which seems likely to continue for some days.
I called to-day on a brave English family, who had
resolved to go into Italy vid Phillipsville and Bona, and
who have actually taken their berths for to-morrow,
nothing daunted by the storm. It would be pleasant
enough in fine weather to coast it thus, were the accom-
modation such as would be obtained in even a Bristol
Channel steamer. Whether, however, the French wish
to deter passengers from taking this route or not, one
thing is certain, that in the present state of affairs, it is
one which stern necessity alone should dictate. All the
packets on the line are Government boats, and the first-
class is reserved for the superior officers-the military
always ranking before every one else in French arrange-
ments. The second-class accommodation is for the
subalterns, and the third in order is appointed for
any passenger who may be disposed to submit to
these arrangements, and will pay handsomely for it.
188
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
where labour is so urgently needed as it is here), might
have been enforced ere this, for teaching them the value
of systematic work.
Thursday, March 31st.-To-day I picked orange-
blossoms in our garden. It is only just now sufficiently
open, and abundant, to find its way into one's bouquets.
Monsieur D., the owner of this property, told me that
the mistrale had frightened him away from Nice, whither
he was ordered for his health; and this it was which
first brought him to Algeria, and induced him to take up
his residence here. He is himself obliged to winter in
the city of Algiers, but for those whose health can
stand bracing, El-Biar is strongly to be recommended in
preference.
Madame B. says that, after experience of both, she
gives the palm to this, over an Italian climate; and
that there are far more "Italian days" in Algeria than in
Italy.
We met the Astronomer Imperial to-day, and had a
pressing invitation to his observatory. He has passed
some years in England, and thoroughly appreciates the
superiority of English, over Continental attainments, in
this branch of science.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
187
No passenger is permitted to place foot on the staircase
appropriated to the exclusive use of the officers; and as
to food, the cravings of nature may only be satisfied after
all the officers have been attended to seriatim, when their
leavings are dished up for the gentlemen and ladies who
are below the salt, pro tem.
I must say the French, not being military, are quite as
much alive to these désagrémens as any one else, and
speak of voyagers being treated like cattle, any accom-
modation, however bad, being considered quite a privi-
lege. Perhaps, in time, the Messageries Impériales will
extend their line of operation. A gentleman told us
lately that he had ventured on one of these voyages, and
although he was fortunately en garçon, the rudenesses.
and insults to which he and others were exposed, were
such as to make his blood boil. Nevertheless, he spoke
French like a native, and the officers were more obliging
than usual.
G. has been amusing himself to-day with drawing up
a scheme for making the Arabs work, a plan which, if it
could be carried out, would entitle him to the gratitude
of the French residents. We have had another taste of
their laziness, having been again induced to employ an
Arab as groom. It was on the recommendation of a lady
with whom he had formerly lived, and who found he was
now almost starving. He commenced work on Saturday,
and whether he found the work too light for his active
turn of mind, or from what cause deponent sayeth not,
he never made his appearance on Sunday, and has not
turned up since. His hands were as white and delicate
as any lady's, and if ever he has made any serious efforts
to support his family, they certainly do not show it. The
French have now been masters here for thirty-four years,
and some stringent measures, one would think (in a colony
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189
CHAPTER XVIII.
LIFE IN EARNEST.
Breakfast in Algiers-Sight-seeing-Bishop's Palace-Governor's Palace-
Madame Luce's Moorish School for Girls-Arab Embroidery-Sketch of
Madame Luce's Life-Difficulties encountered and surmounted in establish-
ing her School-The Kabyle Mountains and Fort Napoleon.
April 1st.-A glorious day. The views never looked
more lovely than this morning. I saw trees thickly
covered with green figs, already an inch and a half in
diameter, though not within two months probably of
being ripe.
We went in early to breakfast with a friend, and to
devote the day to sight-seeing in Algiers. We have now
finally arranged to start early Monday morning next,
for Blidah; there to take a carriage, and penetrate a
little into the interior. Medeah and Millianah are first
to be visited, and if by possibility we can push on to
Teniet and the Forêt des Cèdres, I shall be satisfied,
though Laghouat is the object of my ambition, which is
nearer the borders of the Desert. There are just now
flying rumours of some sort of émeute or insurrection;
of which some think seriously, and others pooh-pooh it.
It is very difficult here ever to arrive at the truth, but
if any rising has really taken place, it would of course
render proximity to the Desert unsafe.
Our first two visits to-day, were to the two Moorish
houses most worth seeing that appropriated to the
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Governor's palace, and that assigned to the Bishop of
Algiers. Monseigneur was in France, but we had an
introduction to, and received every attention from, his
secretary: Description of these residences is needless.
To see one good Moorish house, is to see all of the same
class. The art, par excellence, in which the Moors
excelled, was that of architecture; nevertheless, their
architects are said not to have enjoyed the same pro-
fessional status as their European brethren, but only to
have ranked as mere artizans. The builders of most
of these larger dwellings were Christian slaves. So at
least we are told, perhaps to reconcile one to the new
dynasty. Savans say that no pure specimen of Arab
architecture is to be found in Algiers, excepting, I believe,
the Grand Mosque, and even this has undergone much
deterioration.
One external model serves for all Moorish houses, alike
for the wealthy and the poor. Their dimensions will
differ, but this is about the only distinctive outward sign.
Unlike our houses, where the elevation is a primary object,
the aspect of the Moorish dwellings cannot be too plain,
too poor; I had almost said, too ugly. Those country
houses which, like the one we have taken, are become
French property, have, of course, French windows; but
in the hands of their former masters, they presented a
blank surface, only occasionally relieved by one balcony,
and one window jealously guarded by venetians. A
whitewashed quadrilateral, with flat roofs, offers no
beauty without, but within they cannot be too lavishly
ornamented, or too deliciously furnished. A symbol this
of Moslem life, with its impenetrable mysteries!
The quadrangular gallery supported on pillars, protect-
ing the ground floor from the powerful rays of the sun,
and surmounting an open court, is a feature common to
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191
all. The size and flooring of these courts, the workman-
ship of the pillars, quickly discover the rank of the owner.
Marble paving, flowing fountains, central floral adorn-
ments, and galleries carved and gilded, in the abodes of
the wealthy, mark the cloistered court, which corresponds
to the inpluvium or the cava ædium of the ancient
Romans. Both admitted light to the dwelling, and in
both, audiences were given, business transacted, and
company received on state occasions. El-oust, or the
centre, was the Moorish name employed to designate it.
Outer porticoes, handsome arched doorways, and massive
wooden doors covered with emblems, mark the entrance
to grand abodes such as that now appropriated to the
bishopric. The secretary was very obliging, and showed
us all over the palace, not excepting the Bishop's bedroom,
and library.
We saw a picture representing the Bishop on his
arrival in Algiers, young and handsome. Another of
later date, with his beard of patriarchal growth, sets an
example to his clergy, which they have not been slow to
imitate.
The principal entrance to the Governor's palace, is from
the Place du Gouvernement, and the whole façade is the
work of the imperial engineers. The walls are richly
ornamented with sculpture, and wood carvings, painted
and gilded fish, and other adornments.
From thence to the bibliothèque, and the museum, to
which has been assigned another large Moorish house in
the Rue Lotophages; but for some unknown reason it
was shut, and we had to postpone our visit. We were
not much more fortunate in our next attempt to see the
Moorish girls' school, in the Rue de Toulon; for, although
Madame Luce was at home, and most kindly showed us
everything, we had unthinkingly selected a Friday, the
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1
day when the larger part of her pupils absent themselves.
My great object was to inspect her celebrated ouvroir,
where, of course, the gentlemen of our party could not
hope for admittance, but as they were permitted to rest
in a room opening on the court, and filled with specimens
of the ingenuity and industry of her school, they had no
ground of complaint.
Madame Luce took me up to "the workroom," which
is held in the square gallery, and in some of the narrow
rooms on the floor, wherever the black-eyed workers
thought fit to deposit themselves. These were few in
number, but in every imaginable attitude-sitting up,
leaning against the walls, and balustrades, or stooping
over their beautiful embroidery. It seems that the
revival of this branch of Arab art, is partly due to the
taste and patronage of English visitors. These wondrous
broderies were being buried in oblivion, and the stitches
almost forgotten, until lately. I learnt a new and very
pretty stitch from a beautiful little Moorish child, who
was edging a handkerchief in silk. Three or four girls
were occupied on the same piece of embroidery-some
large curtain, or hanging the design outlined in black
floss, the pattern filled up with silks of brilliant hues.
It is curious to see the necessity which seems involved in
these Arabesque patterns, of never making two sides of
the same article to match. If the outlines are similar,
the colours must differ. Their white work was what I
most admired, whether the exquisite cashmere burnouses,
and mantles for ladies, worked in white floss silk, or the
beautiful muslin curtains embroidered in white and gold,
specimens of which were shown us in the exhibition
room.
The price of her costliest things would require a well-
stocked purse: 1507. the pair for Arab thread gold-
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193
embroidered curtains, sounds alarming.
The beautiful
Zouave jackets are cheaper, about 67. each. There are,
however, specimens shown to meet every pocket and
every requirement, whether of ornament or dress.
All these things were exhibited in the Great Exhi-
bition at Kensington, in 1862, and will doubtless be
remembered by some of my readers. The history of
this energetic woman is so remarkable, and, to those
anxious for the welfare of the now degraded Moorish
women, so interesting, that I think I shall be excused if
I give an outline of her proceedings. A sketch of them
appeared in the Englishwoman's Journal sometime
since, from which I abridge the following particulars.
The article to which I refer, is from the pen of Madame
Bodichon.
Mademoiselle Eugénie Berlau was born at Montréchat,
in Touraine, in the Hotel de Ville, her father being at
the time Secrétaire de la Mairie. This little girl was
the twelfth child of her parents, in a country where the
salaries of officials will scarcely admit of their bringing
up a much smaller family with any degree of comfort.
When she was four years old, they removed to an old
chateau, where little Eugénie spent many happy days in
a dreamy seclusion, roaming over the fields, and making
intimate acquaintance with every tree and leaf, of the
surrounding woods.
Her education was irregular enough. She was allowed
free access to her father's library, and read and studied at
will.
Her chief studies of life appear to have been
derived from freely mixing with the country people
around, whom she vainly endeavoured to innoculate with
her own love of the beauties of nature.
Notwithstanding her wild life, the little girl grew up
very sage. She made her première communion at eleven
0
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years of age, and the curé was so struck by her attain-
ments, that he promoted her to the office of moniteur to
the other children.
"The Berlau family were strong Royalists, and Eugénie's
childhood was passed just at the most stormy time, when
the Bonapartists and the Legitimists were openly or
secretly struggling for the supreme power. One day,
during the Cent Jours, she was visiting a married sister,
who resided some miles from Montréchat. In company
with several other children, she went to see an old tower,
situated in the midst of a garden. In this garden was
an outhouse, the door of which was fastened. The
children, bent on discovering what was inside, poked
and peeped till they managed to see that it was full of
arms, piled up; Eugénie, with characteristic daring,
made her way in, and there found, not only the weapons,
but an immense black flag, on which glared in great
white letters this sinister motto, La Nation Outragée.
It was a Bonapartist banner, and the little royalist, much
offended, seized it with both hands, and tore it right in
two! Napoleon was in temporary authority during the
famous Hundred Days, and the family were in a deadly
fright lest the Bonapartists of the neighbourhood should
know what had occurred. They were obliged to buy the
silence of the servant who was with the children, and
Eugénie went back to her parents with a reputation for
patriotism somewhat dearly purchased."
When Eugénie was thirteen years old, her parents
suffered deep affliction by the death of the brother
nearest to her in age. To rouse them from their grief,
she "persuaded her father to quit his country life, and
remove once more into Montréchat. As a further means
of creating a little more movement in the house, she
opened a small school, of which the pupils were as old as
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195
she herself; but at thirteen she was so tall and womanly,
that no one would have guessed her age. Three years
after, when one of the inspectors came to Montréchat, he
told her to make haste and grow older, in order that he
might give her a regular certificate as schoolmistress.
"But other plans were entertained for Eugénie by her
family; her parents wished to see her, and her younger
sister married before they died, and proposed to her a
M. Allix as a husband. She overheard them talking one
night about their extreme anxiety to see her settled, and
thus it was that, at the age of twenty-one, in January of
the year 1826, she became Madame Allix. Little is
known, and nothing need be said, about this marriage,
but that it was a very unhappy and unsuitable tie.
M. Allix had been brought up for the priesthood, which
idea he had renounced as the time approached for taking
holy orders. Why he married, and why once married he
did not make his young wife happy, is one of those sad
mysteries which are best left in the shadowed privacy of
domestic life. That Madame Allix three times returned
to her father's house, and at last, with her father's con-
sent, fled to Algiers, then recently acquired by the French,
is enough to say; and so great was her distress, and so
moving her representations, that on M. Allix sending to
inquire for the fugitive, the Algerine authorities actually
sent back word that no such woman had been heard of in
the colony !
"Madame Allix had left her only child, her daughter, in
her mother's care, and now commenced a severe struggle
for her own maintenance. In those early days of the
colony, there was little for an educated lady to do, and
Madame Allix courageously accepted any and every em-
ployment she could find. She gave lessons occasionally,
but she also took in sewing, and even washing, for the
0 2
196
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military hospital; owing no man anything, and earning
honourable bread. In this way passed many years,
obscure years of industry, and unmarked, so far as the
purposes of this biography are concerned, except by the
death of her father in 1837; but during which Madame
Allix was slowly maturing a plan, destined later to pro-
duce much fruit,-a plan for the education of Moorish
women; a school in which girls of Mahomedan family
should be taught the language and somewhat of the
civilization of the conquering race.
"The Government had already established schools for
instructing native boys in French, &c., but these institu-
tions were not flourishing; the Mahomedans dreaded
entrusting their children to Christians, more particularly
if the Catholic priests had any share in the work; and
one Mufti, a Mahomedan ecclesiastic, was actually
deported to the Ile St. Marguérite for contumacy upon
this subject. As to the girls, nobody ever thought of
them; and, indeed, any European who came to know the
ways and customs of the Moresques, the religious and
social tyranny under which they suffer, and their own
utter debased ignorance, might well despair of effecting
any sort of good among them. The lower ranks walk
about the streets closely veiled, excepting a narrow slit
for the eyes; but the upper class of Moorish women
rarely stir out except to the bath, or the cemetery, or to
visit their friends. Three or four times a year to the
mosque, completes their part of the religious ceremonies
enjoined by the Koran. They can neither read nor
write, and they are not taught any manual art by which
women deprived of other means of subsistence might
gain their daily bread." They seldom know their own
ages; but the crowning degradation in the life of Moslem
women is, that while yet only eleven or twelve years old,
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197
they are liable to be sold in marriage to a husband they
have never seen.
Such were the unpromising materials, out of which
Madame Luce ventured to hope she might yet elevate
Moorish womanhood, to a condition approaching that of
her European sisters. She set to work, firmly persuaded
that, until some change had penetrated to the interiors of
Moorish dwellings, no true amalgamation with the con-
quering race could ever take place.
"While forming her plans, and collecting her funds,
she perfected herself in a knowledge of the native
language. In 1845, just fifteen years after the conquest,
she commenced a campaign among the Moorish families
of her personal acquaintance, endeavouring to persuade
the fathers, and mothers, to entrust their little girls to her
care for a few hours every day, that they might be taught
to read and write French, and also to sew neatly,-an
accomplishment in which the Moresques are as deficient
as they are in Latin, and mathematics. By dint of
coaxing, presents, entreaties, and the most solemn as-
surances that she would not interfere with the religion
of the children—by using, in short, her personal influence
with all the energy of a philanthropist, and the tact of a
Frenchwoman, she contrived to get together four little
girls, whom she installed in a house she hired for the
purpose, and she began to teach them without an hour's
delay. By degrees, as the rumour of her plan spread
among the Mussulmen, one child after another dropped
in upon her, till the numbers ran up to thirty and to
forty. Finding it answer beyond her hopes, she then
began to demand support from the local government-
the same support which they gave to the education of
boys; telling the officials that it was in vain to hope to
rear a better, a more rational and civilized race of Mussul-
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C
men, so long as their wives and the mothers of the next
generation were left in worse than the ignorance of the
brutes, to whom God has given sufficient intelligence for
the performance of the simple duties, and the enjoyment
of the simple pleasures, of their state. But the Algerine
officials saw no manner of good in educating Moorish
women; they did not believe that as the wife is so the
husband is,' reversing Tennyson's stanza in Locksley
Hall;' and though they complimented Madame Allix
upon her energy, they declined allowing her pecuniary
assistance. She, who had counted on demonstrating to
them the value and the success of the experiment, was
almost in despair. The expenses were heavy, and alto-
gether defrayed by her; the children had to be bribed
to come, and to be helped, such as were of poor families,
by food, clothing, lodging, and school-books. It all fell
on her small means, and though the school was answering
in its moral and intellectual ends, there seemed nothing
for it but to close it, and lament over the failure of so noble
an experiment, and the waste of so much time and money.
وو
This was in 1845. Ever since, struggling against dis-
couragements and difficulties, sometimes pawning her
plate and trinkets, once even her gold thimble, Madame
Allix-now Madame Luce-has managed in some form
or other to keep open her school. One administration
objected to the work, and would only aid if she confined
her efforts to intellectual training. Another government
would make a grant for an industrial school, but the
"three R's" were to be banished.
Her own desire from the first was to combine the two,
and to raise the moral and intellectual standard. She has
had, however, again and again to bow to stern necessity,
and at the present time books are prohibited. One
cannot feel quite the same interest in this work as in that
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199
carried on in Cairo by Miss Whately: the training in the
one case being for time, the other for eternity. Still,
Madame Luce's indomitable energy commands our esteem
and admiration. It is a step, and a very important one,
in the right direction; and to any intending visitors to
Algiers I would say, by no means omit a.visit of inspection
and encouragement to Madame Luce's school.
We had wished to inspect also the Government school
for Arab boys; but on learning that these young Moslems
were still more devout than their sisters, as far as playing
truant on the Friday proves them so, we postponed our
intended visit to another day,
Saturday, April 2d.-Busy trying to gain useful
hints for next week. As yet, all may be comprised in
these two take some tea and plenty of wraps. It will
of course be cold on the mountain-tops, though here it is
now extremely warm.
Heard from the Misses T. a full account of their visit
to the Kabyle district, from whence they have just
returned. Fort Napoleon is as it were the entrance-gate
to Kabylia. In hopes of making an excursion thither,
I have noted every particular.
Our friends took a carriage from here, and made a
three days' journey of it. The last part of the way has
to be performed on mules. Tizzi-Ouzou, the halting-
place for carriages, is 100 kilo., or 60 miles, from Algiers,
and boasts a good hotel. Four hours' riding the following
day, brings the traveller to Fort Napoleon, where the
Hotel de la Régence again offers a resting-place. Few
more congenial spots, it would seem, could be selected
by artists who desire to bring back characteristic me-
mentos of Algeria. They say the deep blue hue of the
mountains, cannot possibly be pictured by those who have
not been there.
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Before reaching Tizzi-Ouzon, they passed a fort called
Bordj Sebaôu, to which the Kabyles point with pride, as
the scene of a successful resistance made by them against
the Turks in 1830. In proof thereof, they show some
skulls of Turkish soldiers whitening in a neighbour-
ing pit.
Fort Napoleon is, however, as its name imports, a
French fortress, and the key to the now conquered Kabyle
territory. Marshal Randon laid the first stone of this
stronghold in 1857, and five months after, it was com-
pleted, defying all attacks. All this we hope, ere long,
to see for ourselves.
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201
CHAPTER XIX.
VISIT TO THE INTERIOR.
Train to Blidah-Beni-Mered-The celebrated Orangeries of Blidah-Its
History-Want of Trees in Algeria-Arab Chanting-Gorge de la Chiffa
-Ruisseau des Singes-Stalactite Cavern-Crossing the River-Oleanders
-Col de Mouzaia-Arrival at Medéah-Negro Dance-Animal Magnetism
-Kinēsapathy—Description of Medéah-Its past History.
ON the 4th of April we started on our long-deferred
excursion to Blidah, and from thence to some of the
chief beauties of that part of Algeria. At 12.30 the train
bore us from Algiers-a small but pleasant party of four,
prepared to enjoy alike our company and our tour, to
sleep at road-side inns, and to rough it if needs be; but,
at all events, to keep together, for better for worse, for
the space of one week; to glean all the information in
our power, and to treasure it up for the benefit of those
who should follow in our steps.
The difficulty of ever obtaining accurate information,
by the way, was exemplified ere we reached Blidah, for
at Beni-Mered we were struck by an elegant little
column, evidently erected in memoriam; and on in-
quiring its history from our fellow-travellers, we were
told it was erected in commemoration of an attack made
by 3,000 Arabs on nine French soldiers, who, with two
guns, kept their assailants at bay until assistance arrived
from Boufarik, by which time one Frenchman alone
remained to tell the tale. These facts we duly noted in
our memories, and on arriving at Blidah, two residents,
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who most kindly escorted us about, asked if we had seen
the column, the story of which was that a sergeant and
23 men had kept 4,000 Arabs at bay, three only sur-
viving. Consulting our guide-book, on returning to the
hotel, we found the assailants to have been 300 in num-
ber, the defenders 22, and the survivors 5!
The railway journey was soon performed, the distance
being only thirty miles. They talk of extending the line
to Oran on the west, and Constantine on the east, but at
present it terminates at Blidah. On first quitting Algiers
the route it takes is alongside the sea, as far as Hassein
Dey, then at a little distance from the strand until the
Maison Carréc is passed, after which it enters upon the
plain of the Metidja, and describing a wide curve, the
line pursues a direction from north-east to south-west,
and finally dashes in amid the orangeries of Blidah.
These orangeries are found all over Algeria, and one of
the first questions exchanged between visitors usually is,
"Have you seen the orangeries of Blidah?" Of course,
therefore, our steps on arriving were turned at once to-
wards the gardens of the Hesperides. Perhaps, to have
seen them in full fruition, we should have gone in the
month of February-but when are orange-trees otherwise
than delicious? By the latest statistics we learnt that
280 acres are covered with these trees; that there are
10,781 orange-trees of full growth bearing fruit, and
12,436 recently planted. There are also 4,119 lemon-
trees, 2,026 citrons, 2,148 Chinese orange-trees, and 265
cédras. This latter is a fruit much valued for preserving
It looks like a huge lemon, about as big as a baby's head,
but is more like an apple internally. In addition to
the above, they have now upwards of 35,000 young trees
ready to be transplanted, and placed in the orangeries.
From the above figures it will readily be inferred that
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203
Blidah carries on a thriving trade with this fruit, sup-
plying even the markets of Marseilles and Paris. In the
vicinity of Algiers it rarely ripens, some say owing to
the proximity to the sea; others, because the trees are
not watered as at Blidah. We can form but an imper-
fect idea of what the approach to this town must formerly
have been, the greater part of these orange and lemon
forests having been cut down to clear the different
entrances to the place. Even as they now exist, they
are said to be greatly superior to those of the Governor
of Malta, which are so celebrated.
Blidah (the "Bida Colonia" of Ptolemy, as Shaw calls
it, though other authorities deny it) is situated at the
foot of the Lesser Atlas, in a sort of gorge or deep valley,
which adds considerably to the beauty of its appearance.
The town is well built, the streets being regular, and as
wide as those of Algiers. In 1825 it was visited by an
earthquake, which threw down its walls, and destroyed
the greater part of the place, and 7,000 of its inhabitants.
were buried beneath the ruins. Since then, however, it
has been rebuilt, and is sometimes known by the name of
New Blidah. The Arabs delight to call it by the name
bestowed on the place by Mohamed-Ben-Yousef,—“ A
Little Rose," and which it justly merits, from the sweet
perfume which is borne on the breeze, and greets the
traveller on his entrance. The population, which for-
merly amounted to 14,000 or 15,000, is now reduced to
about 3,500 Europeans and 4,500 natives, making a total
of 8,000.
This much we gleaned, partly from our very intelligent
guides, and partly from works already published. One of
the best of English authorities, though not the most recent,
is Mr. Morrell.
We were told here that the last accounts received from
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Nice, spoke of a severe thinning among the orange-trees,
the cold this last winter having killed them in great
numbers. Neither at Algiers, nor at Blidah, has there
been cold enough to destroy a single tree-a proof, as
they triumphantly asserted, of the great superiority of
the climate, for invalids requiring warmth. The verdure
of the slopes of the mountains, as we approached Blidah,
specially struck us. Seen in the distance from Algiers,
we had thought the hills, dark, frowning, rugged, and
barren; but on nearing them, they were found clothed
with trees, and patches of vegetation.
This applies, at all events, to the last ridge of hills
under which Blidah is ensconced. It is covered with
trees, and even cultivated to its very summit, hence they
obtain here the abundant supply of water which fertilizes
the orangeries, but which is denied to Algiers. Those who
felled the date-palms, and other trees, were either ignorant,
or heedless, of the effects which must follow. With the
loss of so much leaf, and vegetable mould, to retain the
moisture in the rainy season, the torrents, when they fall,
rush over the ground with the impetuosity of rivers, and
are no longer imbibed, and kept in storehouses to feed
the much-needed springs.
Having completed our survey of the orange-gardens,
and pépinières, where the golden fruit still peeped out
from its encircling white blossoms, and shining leaves, we
returned to our hotel, to prepare for a long day on the
morrow.
On the way back we had an opportunity of noting
the characteristic gravity of the Arab character. Strange
chanting attracted us to a circle in one of the squares,
where a man was making a most monotonous sound, and
this only at intervals, yet a ring of at least eighty or
a hundred Arabs, seated on the ground, or standing
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205
around, demonstrated how greatly the entertainment was
enjoyed.
66
per
April 5th.-We were up early this morning, and
prepared to start, after swallowing a cup of coffee. We
had engaged a carriage, which was to take us about in
our wanderings for the sum of 25 francs
diem; we
having nothing to do with the food of either man or
beast-beasts I should rather say, for our steeds numbered
three. Will you
be sure to send us a driver who does
not drink?" we had said over-night; but received only
the encouraging reply, that they all did so, with the
exception of the Arabs, and the master had not one
handy just then, with whom to entrust his horses. He
was himself a Spaniard, and did not speak altogether
respectfully of the French.
But now we were off, quaffing in the delicious morn-
ing air, and unheeding any danger from that quarter,
which might possibly be looming in the future. It did
not seem long that we had to travel the dusty road
between Blidah, and Marengo, before we turned off to
the left, to follow the windings of the river, through the
far-famed, and magnificent gorge of the Chiffa. The
road here is considered a perfect triumph of engineering
skill, so great were the difficulties to be met, and over-
come, before it could be achieved. It is the work of the
army, as all such works are in Algiers; and considering
the obstacles which we are told had to be encountered,
it certainly does the soldiers credit. We could well
believe that during the rainy season it was previously
impassable, that mountains on each side hemmed in, and
obstructed the pathway, and that the rocks sometimes
approached so near, that a man could not always stand
erect. All this was more or less self-evident; but Count
St. Marie, as quoted by Morrell, states the astounding
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fact, that the road which passes through this said glen
crosses, and recrosses the river Chiffa, no fewer than sixty-
two times. I counted, both in going to, and returning
from, Medéah, and could only make out six times; and
am perfectly positive that this feat was not achieved more
than eight times at the outside.
About half-way through the gorge, we stopped to
déjeuner at the Café des Singes, or, as the occupants
wrote it up, the "Grand Hautel du Ruisseau des
Singes;" a most charming little retreat, as far as natural
beauties were concerned, but offering the traveller no
opportunity for repose, if inclined to pass the night there,
and only very meagre fare.
A letter ordering breakfast to be ready, had not been
received, so we had an hour to look about us, while the
trout were being taken out of a sort of tank, in which
they were kept for any such emergencies, the fowl was
having its neck wrung, and its eggs were being manu-
factured into omelettes. Up the ravine we toiled, follow-
ing the course of a mountain stream, which in its rapid
descent leapt over, or made its way under, huge boulders,
watering pinnated ferns, and verdant lycopodiums, and
rolling its sparkling waters from time to time, into
glorious cascades; sometimes pouring in one grand
volume from under an overhanging rock, and sometimes
parted into three currents by intervening crags. The
late rains greatly favoured us in this respect, for the
mountain streams subside as rapidly as they rise.
But this was the "Ruisseau des Singes," and "Where
are the monkeys? Can we see any apes?" was our
first inquiry. The Consul was there about a month
since, and he saw between thirty and forty, at 9 A.M.
We arrived at 9.40, and although the answer to our
queries encouraged us to hope, I only saw one of the
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207
tribe; and that one, I am forced to confess, chained to a
tree. One of our party, who scaled rocks, and penetrated
thickets which daunted the others, was fortunate enough
to see a second; but altogether we sat down to breakfast
somewhat disappointed, and fain to console ourselves
with hearing their screeching, which was loud enough,
overhead.
I must not omit to record here that for our very
humble repast, we paid the exorbitant sum of 14 francs,
or 3 francs each; 8 francs would have been ample re-
muneration; and we found afterwards that the place was
usually avoided by more experienced travellers, on account
of the notorious impositions. We seriously contemplated
writing to the Times.
Once more we wended our way through the lovely
gorge, along a road which rests the whole way on a strong
embankment, and requires at times skilful coachmanship,
not to go too near the overhanging cliff on the one side,
or the precipitous descent on the other.
The monkeys gave unmistakable evidence of their
presence, and of their resentment at such unheard-of in-
trusion, when the army were engaged in cutting this road.
Unexpected stones would come rolling down on the work-
men, hurled by these monkeys, who formed themselves.
into volunteer corps to resist the French invasion. The
soldiers were often seriously injured in these encounters,
and some were even killed, without any compensating
glory.
Not far from the Ruisseau des Singes, and the hotel
bearing its name, is an enormous stalactite cave, similar
to those in Derbyshire, or at Cheddar Cliffs, only on a
scale of greater magnitude. Strange and fantastic forms
are to be seen, the result of the everlasting drip, drip,
drip, which is the only music to be heard, as the daring
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C
explorer ventures onward to penetrate the heart of the
mountain. Our enterprising countryman, Col. Walmsley,
describes the sights which met his wondering gaze, and
which seem worthy a place in the "Arabian Nights,"
specially a cold, white, dripping figure of a woman hold-
ing a child in her arms, as if both had stood shivering
there till they turned to the icy, cold, uncouth statuary
before him. He made closer acquaintance with the gaunt
figure than he desired, for a bend in the slippery rock
sent him headlong into a pool beneath, where his light
was extinguished, and his lucifers hopelessly wetted.
For two long hours he groped in the fearful darkness in
which he was plunged-ever and anon, as he reached out
his hands to guide himself, finding by the touch that he
had again encountered the slimy, dripping figure of the
woman and her child. He ends by telling us that these
huge caverns are as yet unexplored, and that a rugged
defile, and steep descent, will lead any venturesome
spirit to the dark, winding passage, where this figure still
stands as guardian of the place.
Soon we reached "la Cascade," as the spot is impro-
perly called, for it should certainly be "les Cascades."
Down the opposite mountains, from which we are sepa-
rated by the river Chiffa, fall several streams or torrents,
like silver threads in the distance, divided in one instance
into three lace-like falls, in others descending with a
single plunge. This we thought the loveliest part of the
glen, until we reached a point beyond the Pont du Lode
Merga. Here the road, before, and behind, is completely
hid, and one seems entirely hemmed in by mountains
near, and distant. I counted twelve of these peaks, and
the strange, grand effect can scarcely be described.
Then our road lay alongside the stream, and we passed
through groves of oleanders. The flowers, the shrubs, the
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209
tints, the colourings, with a cloudless azure sky overhead,
gave us endless sources of enjoyment, till we at length
emerged from the Gorge, and commenced the long ascent
of the hill, on the summit of which Medéah is situated.
Here the magnificent views called glasses, and telescopes
into requisition, and Coléah, like a city set on a hill,
appeared in the distance, with Cherchel, and the blue sea
beyond.
The Col-de-Mouzaïa recalled the memory of some of
the many fierce, and bloody struggles, through which the
French had to pass, to possess the country. Marshal
Clauzel, ignorant or heedless of the danger to which he
exposed his troops, ventured across the Pass of Mouzaïa,
while the heights above the narrow defile were crowded
with armed Kabyles. With undaunted bravery, the French
soldiers scaled the rocks in face of their foes, hoping to
dispossess them. But no sooner did they reach the top,
than the Arabs ceasing to fire, seized them by their leathern
girdles, and precipitated them into the abyss beneath.
As we wound our way upward, the mountains on either
side assumed an aspect we had never noticed before. It
was not so much their own blue tint, as the evident blue-
ness of the atmosphere, between us and them, and which
we could only compare to a thin veil of deep blue gauze
being stretched between. It had a most peculiar effect.
Could it have arisen from the rarified state of the
atmosphere ?
We reached Medéah about half-past five, and giving
ourselves an hour before dinner, chartered an intelligent
young Kabyle to conduct us about the town.
He informed us that a negro dance was going on,
and led us to the spot where the performance was
taking place, in a small and dilapidated court-yard
of a Moorish house. The ceremony was something so
P
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peculiarly African, as to merit description. A large
ring was formed of intending performers, who were all
squatted on the ground. In the centre were two old
Africans, with huge drums, on which they played a rat-
ta-ta-tat with ever increasing vigour. Facing them were
some younger negroes, with brass instruments of a nonde-
script kind, which they clashed together, in time, if not
in tune, responsive; adding considerably to the din.
Behind them sat two, or three rows of impotent folks-
maim, halt, and suffering in various ways,-who had
come to be touched on this auspicious occasion. In the
outer circle, which included lookers-on of every descrip-
tion, we found ourselves, watching the strange proceed-
ings with painful interest, mingled, perhaps, with scientific
curiosity. A small balcony looked into this court, which
was crowded with Moorish women, who, I suppose, had
received special permission to witness this grand affair.
As soon as the music began, first one then another
negress, began swaying and rocking herself about, each
as if winding herself up to the right pitch of excitement.
At length one after another arose, and began making a few
solemn and uncouth steps in time to the jingling instru-
ments, and then usually sank down exhausted into the
arms of her sympathizing sisterhood, who rubbed and
chafed her till she was able to resume the exercise.
Strengthened by their kind offices, she would soon begin
again with greater vigour, and, becoming more and more
excited, would take off first one, and then another of her
many scarfs and coverings, till she got into a kind of
frenzy.
We noticed one in particular,-most of the performers
were old women, with hands and feet as like the web
foot of an ostrich, or an old turkey cock, as anything to
which I can compare them,-but this was a brawny

NEGRO MUSICIANS,
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211
specimen of a strong, healthy young Africaness, with
arms muscular enough to serve as a model for a Hercules.
As soon as she had sufficiently disrobed, and her discarded
wardrobe been carefully received by other negresses, she
made her way to the infirm patients opposite, and began
seizing on their limbs, and pulling them about most
unmercifully; finishing off in each case with the head,
which I expected occasionally to see dislocated from the
neck. However, the sufferers looked not only resigned,
but most grateful for the attentions bestowed. The
whole affair was clearer to us, than I suspect it was
to themselves, for the beneficial results, if any such
ensued, were evidently, though perhaps unknown to the
actors, obtained by animal magnetism.
I remember a mesmerist in London telling us, that on
one occasion, after he had been delivering a lecture on
animal magnetism, an African came up to him, and
said,-
"Well, I dare say this may be new to you, but in my
country we have always known all about it."
"Where did you learn it?" asked the lecturer.
66
Oh, we never learnt it. We always had it in our
tribes. Whenever any one is ill amongst us, we send for
a man who has this power, and he comes and makes
what you call 'passes,' and then he gets well again. We
never take any other medicine."
In Sweden, so highly is kinēsipathy estimated, that a
Professorial Chair at Gottenburg rewards the attainment
of this art; and certainly if ever at a loss for a practical
kinesipathist, some powerful ones might be secured from
amongst the negro dancers of Medéah. The worst is,
that amongst the ignorant and uninformed, it is always
mixed with so much of superstition, that the power
which might be so beneficially exercised becomes sinful.
up
P 2
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as
We asked our Kabyle whether they said anything while
performing these manipulations.
"Oh yes," he said; "they invoke le bon Dieu."
But, inasmuch as they are heathen, I strongly suspect
it is the aid of the Evil One which is invoked. I have
formerly known a good deal of witchcraft in England,
when I regarded it as unmitigated nonsense, blasphemy,
and sin. Since then I have learnt enough to regret the
ignorance which occasions the sin, and to regard the
possession of magnetic power, when rightly employed, as
one of unspeakable importance.
It is surely a mistake to pooh-pooh well-authenticated
facts, and scientific deductions, as some do. The learned
and cautious Baron Reichenbach conducted his profound
investigations on magnetism for thirty years, ere he would
publish the valuable results obtained. And Arago, the
greatest savan, perhaps, of Europe, addressed to l'Académie
Royal of Paris a paper, containing the opinions at which
he had arrived, on no light grounds, telling them that a
power evidently resided in the human body, which it were
worse than useless to ignore; that if the subject were
not taken up by learned men, and handled aright, it
would necessarily fall into the hands of charletans, and
knaves, and might be turned to the worst of uses.
We should have been glad, indeed, could we have told
these poor blacks, how wisely, and rightly, to employ the
magnetic force which was apparently possessed by the
pseudo-dancers; and far more so, could we have spoken
to them of the one thing needful; but language, and
opportunity, were alike wanting. After seeing first one,
then another, go off the stage in a prostrate state, we left,.
to complete our survey of the town.
Medéah stands 2,990 feet above the level of the sea,
and the views on all sides, well reward the toilsomeness of
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213
the ascent thereto, but the small town itself, contains little
of interest. The invariable marks of the conquest-
strong surrounding fortifications-on one side crowned
the crest of the hills; and thither we bent our steps to
see the glorious sunset, but hunger soon compelled us to
make our way back to the Hôtel de la Régence, where
we found the accommodation, and the fare, both such as
to be called good, especially with a contented frame of
mind. G. and Mr. H. have made a later reconnaissance
of the place, but only to report that the views from the
ramparts by moonlight were beautiful, and that we had
better be up betimes, to climb some of the neighbouring
heights.
To make our explorations more interesting, I must jot
down in brief what we have already made out as to the
history of this place.
Medéah, sometimes spelt Medeyah, the El Media of the
Arabs, contains a population of between 6,000 and 7,000
souls, its numbers having been greatly thinned by the
wars which have desolated it. The mountains around,
have frequently sheltered hosts of armed Kabyles, and
even the Bey of Titteri, who was placed at Medéah by
the French, could not resist throwing himself into their
arms, instead of remaining faithful to his new masters.
This defalcation was severely chastised by Marshal
Clauzel in 1836, and a new Bey appointed in his place.
They gave him arms, ammunition, and money, wherewith
to defend his position. However, Abd-el-Kader's lieu-
tenant came in from the hills one fine morning, and
demanded all the guns, small arms, cartouches, and gold,
which were ceded, and sent off to the Emir. Thereupon
the French army returned, and, after another battle, re-
occupied the place, in 1840. Again it was taken, and
retaken; but since May, 1841, it has been definitely
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occupied by the French; and since then peace-the
peace of the conquered-has reigned at Medéah.
The vine is largely cultivated here, and the wine is said
to be very good. If this be so, I cannot say we tasted
it at dinner. However, 700 or 800 acres are, we were
told, under cultivation as vineyards in the neighbourhood.
The features of the country differ from those around
Algiers. The cactus, the palm, and the orange-tree seem
not to be indigenous, and are only to be seen in gardens.
The cherry, and even the apple-tree, are found here.
Their cereal harvests are very abundant. The Arabs
used to have a saying, that "If poverty entered Medéah
at dawn, it always left again before sunset." How
charming a figure of speech! Who would not wish
to have lived at Medéah ?
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215
CHAPTER XX.
THE INTERIOR.
Ramparts of Medéah-Aqueduct-Storks building their Nests in Chimneys—
Country around Medéah-Vineyards-An English Colonist-Arab Tribal
Tenures of Land-Glen in Returning-Cantonniers-A Miracle—Origin
of the River Chiffa-Camels Browsing-French Encampment-Danger
from Fever Bourkika Road-side Inn-Drive to Millianah French
Prisoners-Iron Springs-Arab Version of their Origin-Bathing Esta-
blishments for the Military-Village Inn-Plains of Algeria-Arab Huts
-Vesoul-Benyan-Millianah.
town.
Wednesday, April 6th.-Up at early morn, and off to
the ramparts, through which we could find no exit to the
country beyond, except by making a circuit of half the
We emerged through one of the fortified gates-
for Medéah has no less than five into a capital road,
which led us under a fine old aqueduct, one of the many
triumphant remains of the ancient Romans, exemplifying
their idea of benefiting their colonies. The structure
consisted of a massive wall, with a continuation of arched
perforations, large enough for door-ways, in two tiers,
one above the other, and conveys water from springs in
the neighbouring hills to the town. The Sultan Youssef-
ben-Tachefin repaired it in 1156. It still feeds all the
fountains of the place, the prettiest of which is a bronze
one which we saw in the Place d'Armes.
The military hospital and barracks which we had just
quitted, have replaced the Casbah, which here, as every-
where, crowned the highest point of the town. Medéah
was the capital of the province of Titteri, but by the
progress of events, too common in every country where
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a conquering army once sets its foot, it finally became
wholly under French dominion.
In mountainous districts, the houses, instead of the
flat terraces, have usually tiled roofs; and from the tall
chimneys issuing from one of these, we saw a pair of
storks building their nest. Continuing our walk, the
views through these apertures in the aqueduct, of the
distant hills and villages scattered here and there, looked
like a picture set in a frame. We were bound for a rock
which crested a neighbouring hill, and which we gained,
despite being warned off by fierce Kabyle dogs, which
guarded their masters' property on each side.
dogs rarely, if ever, leave the boundaries of the premises
they undertake to guard; still they are formidable foes,
and fear naught but the stones with which we had to be
well armed.
These
Looking to the southward, we saw the sandy plateau
which is called by the Arabs Msalla; and far off, em-
bosomed in the mountains, we saw one of the small lakes
with which the interior abounds, lying glittering in the
morning sun. Glancing back at Medéah, we could see
nothing but the tall, military, French buildings, which
are intended to remind the Arabs of the hopelessness of
ever reconquering their own.
From our point of view, we could also plainly sec
distant Millianah; and most tantalizing it was to know
that, unless on horseback, we could not go direct there
from Medéah, but must retrace our steps almost as far as
Blidah, to get into the high road. Our only consolation
was that our road lay for hours through that magnificent
Gorge, which would well repay another visit.
The carriage was ordered at a quarter to eleven, but
our Jehu was not forthcoming; and when he did appear,
at half-past cleven, it was quite evident, in spite of his
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217
asseverations to the contrary, that he was not quite
steady in the upper story. Meanwhile, however, we had
made the acquaintance of a gentleman, the only English
resident in the place, which compensated for the delay.
Mr. F. had come out here, two years ago, to try the
experiment of farming, and is perfectly satisfied with
the result. For a farm of ninety acres, including a house,
and the usual buildings attached, he gave 15,000 francs.
The "leading article" of cultivation on these said farms.
is the vine, alike at Medéah and Algiers.
Mr. F. told us that he found the Arabs to work
well, and he employs one Frenchman to every ten Arabs.
Query, did he mean Arabs, or Kabyles, who are always
industrious, and great agriculturists?
In two or three years, according to Mr. F. a return of
£300 or £400 a year, might be expected on an outlay of
£2,000.
It is but recently that a sufficient security for their
purchase-money, could be guaranteed by Government to
intending cultivators, and even now it is not satisfactorily
settled in all parts of Algeria. In 1862, a Captain Lyons
came over here, intending to buy land, and establish
himself as a colonist; but such was the difficulty, and
impossibility of securing a title, that he was forced to
abandon the idea.
The way
the land was formerly owned, and appropriated
by the Arabs, was as follows:-A tribe came and settled
on an unclaimed tract of land, and cultivated it until the
soil was considered exhausted. They then took up their
tents, and wandered about till they found some other
spot suitable for their purpose. No one dared disturb a
tribe in possession, and the French-not wishing to pro-
voke disturbances-were at first content to claim merely
such portions as had been unclaimed by others. But the
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position of affairs could not always remain thus, and the
demands of Captain Lyons, and others, to be allowed to
purchase, resulted in a decision of the Governor-General
to allot to each tribe a sufficient tract of land, to which
they must henceforth confine themselves. This being
viewed by the Arabs as an infringement of their rights,
occasioned an émeute, and a loud clamour for the
Governor's recall. Since then a deputation of Arab
chiefs has visited Paris, to lay their grievances before the
Emperor in person. Happily his firmness proved a match
for Arab expostulations; the law as laid down by the
Duke of Malakoff, became henceforth the rule in Algeria,
and the complex tribal tenures previously existing, are
now abolished.
If we go back to the eventful year 1830, and the
wording of the treaty, by virtue of which the French
became possessed of the city of Algiers, and the forts and
harbours depending on it, we shall find no mention made
of the provinces, or of the native tribes. Over the latter,
the authority of the Dey, indeed, was little more than
nominal. Hence the loss of so much blood and treasure,
when the French sought to establish their supposed
rights; cela va sans dire, doubtless thought the con-
querors. Not so the Arabs, and Kabyles. It is only
quite recently that the latter have submitted.
At length our carriage was ready, and Mr. H. took his
seat on the box, prepared to seize the reins, should our
coachman be inclined to capsize us in our formidable
descent. However, we made our first halt, soon after
entering the Gorge, in safety, and our Jehu came to
invite our descent with an air of injured innocence.
"Was madame afraid? Did the other lady think he
had been drinking? Now, was she not convinced how
unjust she had been? He drink, indeed! why, he scarcely
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
219
ever touched anything stronger than water!" And so
reassured, we again committed ourselves to the guidance
of our teetotaler, and pursued our way to the Pont de
Lode Merga.
Just before reaching this mine, or the bridge which
takes its name, I would counsel every one to halt, as
here begins the most beautiful part of the glen. From
thence, onwards for hours, not a point or turning which
does not reveal some new features of beauty. Well-
wooded slopes, in which the pale drapery of the olive,
intermingling with the cork-tree, the Palma Christi, the
Carob, and the fig-tree, looks exactly like grey lichen,
from the contrast to the verdant green foliage,-alternate
with steep precipitous heights, through which the road
has been blasted, or a quarry is still being worked for
stone wherewith to repair it.
It was a comfort when we came upon any dangerous
part, to see cantonniers employed on the causeway, for
any interruption on their part, of ceaseless vigilance
might be fraught with terrible consequences. Mrs. E.
and myself often found our nerves somewhat tested.
The sharp turnings, and the tendency of our coachman
to go close to the edge, where a start on the part of the
horses, might have submerged us in the bed of the Chiffa
far beneath, were anything but pleasant; for, however
hurtful it may be to one's morale to "go to the wall," it
is equally injurious to one's physique nerveuse to go very
far from it, when the unparapetted road happens to
overhang a precipice.
We made our chief halt for the day at the Cascades,
where I wandered about in search of a sketch, but it was
all too beautiful, and I
gave it up
in despair. We passed
a white kouba embowered on the heights, but houses as a
rule were unseen; it was all Nature-wild, beautiful
220
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Nature-through which man had made a pathway, and
there left it.
I do not know how far the lovers of antiquarian lore
may value local legends. One, at least, must here be
given. It relates to the origin of this River Chiffa, and
being a full, true, and faithful account, only needs an
Arabic Homer to sing its story.
In bygone days, hereditary and exterminating feuds
subsisted between the tribes located on, and around the
Col, and Plain of Mouzaïa. The inhabitants of the
higher part, had possessed themselves of territory which
was not theirs by right, and had to maintain their in-
vasion by force of arms. To such extent was this petty
warfare carried, that the oldest warriors amongst the new
comers, who called themselves Mouzaïans, were but
beardless youths.
One glorious morn had scarcely dawned, when, lifting
up their eyes towards the east, they saw a venerable
man, with snow-white beard descending below his girdle,
approaching their tents. Hatchet in hand, he trod the
roughest mountain paths, and stepped across the inter-
vening valleys. Si Mohamed-Bou-Chakour, for such was
the name of this sainted man, was of a pacific turn of
mind, and his power was equal to his will. Summoning
before him, by some divine and invisible agency, all the
enemies of the Mouzaïans, he conducted the latter into
their presence, and commanded a mutual cessation of
hostilities. As he spoke, all wrath and bitterness dis-
appeared from every bosom, and was replaced by a
sentiment of fraternal affection.
To recompense the enemies of the Mouzaïans for their
submission, Si Mohamed promised to fertilize their
country. Thus saying, he lifted his hatchet, and clave
the mountain. Instantly a river rushed down the now-
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221
made defile, and an impetuous torrent inundated the
Metidja. This stream, the Sidi named the Chiffa, or
river of healing, because its waters were to cure all
wounds which had been received on either side, during
the recent bloody conflicts.
Returning to the mountain tops, accompanied by his
now devoted Mouzaïans, they implored him to perform
some special miracle on their behalf. The saint con-
sented, and ordered his disciples to bring him up every
morning, to the highest peak of the Mouzaïa, a pitcher of
water. This he poured down, each day, the sides of the
mountain, and fertility and abundance followed. His
kouba now ornaments this height; some 500 pitchers
surround it, and to the present day it is the great emula-
tion of the faithful, to keep them replenished with water.
Our adieux to the Gorge were made with regret, though
the sun was getting low when we turned again into the
high road.
Miles of common land, as they probably
were, we passed, covered with the low stunted fan palm,
and saw camels browsing thereon. Then a low, damp
mist hung over the plain, and we were surprised to see
an encampment of French soldiery, laying itself open to
attacks of rheumatism, and fever, and no one knows what
other ills. The men's tents too, were not well suited to
guard them from these dangers, and were such as English
gipsies would have looked down on. Those appropriated
to the officers, were on a par with the small ones used
by our English soldiers; and as we passed, their occu-
pants were cosily dining at little camp tables outside
their tents. The only food formerly provided by the
commissariat, for the soldiers on these expeditions, was
ill-made biscuit. The great mortality in the army, has
since led to more nutritious food being supplied; but even
now, both quantity, and quality are called in question.
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As a proof that la fièvre is not to be trifled with,
Mrs. E. told us that when she was at Hyères, two or
three years ago, she felt one day a chilly sensation on
going down to the table d'hôte dinner. She mentioned
it to another lady, who said she also felt rather cold, and
both stood in front of the fire, warming themselves, and
chatting. As the dinner proceeded, Mrs. E. felt so unwell
that she left the party, and went upstairs, summoning
the chambermaid to light the fire. As soon as the
servant saw her shivering, and her teeth chattering, she
exclaimed, "Oh, Madame, c'est la fièvre!" and at once
warmed the blankets and sheets, put her in bed, gave
her hot tea, and sent for the doctor. The other lady felt
equally unwell, but wishing to brave it out, did not leave
the table. Mrs. E. made repeated inquiries after her
fellow-sufferer, as soon as she heard that this lady too
was laid up. During the night her questions were as
much as possible evaded, but towards morning the
chambermaid replied, that she was better-that she was
out of all pain, &c. Poor thing! she had died in the
night, and was buried the next afternoon. On coming
to Algiers, Mrs. E. was again attacked with la fièvre, but
a prompt recourse to the prescribed remedies, mercifully
checked it at once.
It was dark when we reached Bourkika, our first taste
of a road-side inn. Variety is charming, and I can only
say I for one, enjoyed it extremely, and would specially
recommend our hotel, and our hostess, who gave up her
own room, awoke the goats out of their first sleep to
supply us with milk, and in fact did tout son possible
to make us comfortable.
One great comfort on the Continent is that one need
never order one's own dinner. Tell them to give you
their best, and you may rest assured they will do so.
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223
At a road-side inn in England, such a demand on the
hostess, as a seven o'clock dinner at a moment's notice,
and three bedrooms, would prove overpowering; but here,
in Africa, it was all managed without any confusion,
and the courses, which were preceded by something like
soup, and terminated with a very fair dessert, were all
selon la règle as nearly as could be.
Thursday, April 7th, found us up early, and ready to
start, after partaking of bowls-not cups-of delicious
coffee, and warm new goat's milk. Butter they had
none, but plenty of excellent bread; and our bill on
leaving amounted for the four, to 19 francs 35 cents,
including service, so we rather wished to come across
some more road-side inns. The only drawback to our
enjoyment was, that Mr. H. who was liable to bronchitis,
was suffering, either from sleeping in the plain, or from
having been out too late, thanks to our morning's delay.
Leaving Marengo gleaming in the sunshine, to our
right, we again turned off to the left, but not this time
through a gorge. It was an ascent nearly the whole
way through healthy, richly, if not thickly-wooded hills,
and passes covered with lentisks, live oaks, and cypresses.
Four military prisoners were marched before us, escorted
by two mounted police. They walked in no kind of
order, and often two would be far ahead of their con-
ductors, and as they always took short cuts, and were
constantly hid by the brushwood, we asked our driver
if escapes were not frequent? "Oh," he said, "it would
be no use if they did escape. They cannot disguise
themselves, and the Arabs always catch and bring them
back, receiving 25 francs a head for each prisoner so
recovered."
On the summit of a wild-looking hill, we saw some
buildings, and were told that hot spring iron baths were
224
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to be had there, and that they were always opened on
the 5th of May. A delicious place of resort I fancied
it; and only wished it had been nearer our halt for
déjeuner, that a dip might have been obtained while
breakfast was preparing, but this, alas! was out of the
question.
The Arabs, who have a very ingenious, and Arabian
Night method of explaining most phenomena, give a
solution of the primeval cause of these thermal springs,
which is certainly original, if not conclusive. Solomon
the Wise, so runs their version, erected bathing establish-
ments the wide world over, to be heated by some sub-
terranean devices, the secrets of which were known only
to himself, and certain Genii whom he placed in charge.
That these faithful guardians might neither see, hear, nor
repeat, the mysteries of the place, he caused them to
become deaf, dumb, and blind. Despite these slight
impediments, all went smooth, till in process of time,
King Solomon died, like other mortals. In vain did his
ministers try to communicate this important intelligence
to the Genii. In vain did they try to reduce the Civil
List by striking off this expensive item. Deaf, dumb,
and blind, the Genii were unable to comprehend the
calamity which had taken place, and to the present day
they have continued their arduous, and incessant labours,
firmly believing themselves to be acting under the orders
of Solomon the Great.
Meanwhile the French, under military orders, have not
been slow to avail themselves of the error of the genii.
It was naturally advisable, in a climate somewhat trying
to European constitutions, to discover restorative springs
on the spot, instead of having to transport their sick
soldiers to France to cure. In the statistics published
by the Minister of War, no fewer than forty sources of
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
225
mineral, and thermal waters are mentioned, as having
been already discovered in Algeria.
The hot springs of Hammam-Rir'a, rise in a mountain
nearly 2,000 feet high, and escape on its south-east side,
where stands the bathing establishment we saw.
Who
knows if Hammam-Rir'a (the Aqua Calida of the
Romans) may not be destined some day to vie with the
most celebrated of the German spas? Being situated only
five days' journey from Paris, and six from London, it is
already as attainable as they were some fifty years back.
If antiquity be any recommendation, it can certainly
boast of it, the foundation of the town which once sur-
rounded the mineral springs bearing date A.D. 32. The
virtues of the waters are different in the various springs.
The air here is very pure and bracing. Judging by
what we felt at Millianah, it must be charming in this
respect.
*
The little village inn where we put up, was crowded
with soldiers, and other passers-by, who were enjoying
their répas du midi. Mrs. E. and I, therefore, contented
ourselves with the landlady's bed-room, while the gentle-
men explored the tiny village of Lou-ad-ajah. Fish,
cutlets, chicken, and omelettes, with cheese and dessert,
were soon brought in, and this time a charge of only
twelve francs was made, coupled with apologies, on
account of the distance from any town.
Off again, and up a steep hill, broiling in the sun. In
the summer, our driver told us, no carriages ever ascend
it between 12 and 3 P.M. I confess they are wise. Soon
the views gained were magnificent, and ere long the plain
of the Cheliff, larger than that of the Metidja, opened
out before us. Snipes, and quails, are said to abound
For the analysis of some of these springs, see Appendix.
+ Some of these Algerian plains are very extensive, and might be rendered
Q
226
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
here. The aspect of its boundary hills was very peculiar,
and looked as if waves of the sea had passed over them,
the impress of which they had retained.
The drive became now more and more diversified.
When we walked, to save our poor quadrupeds, who had
to wend their way round and round the hill sides, we
made our way through bushes of arbutus, oleander,
tamarisks, olive, jujube, and juniper; while the blue veil
of yesterday was again seen on the mountains, which rose
high in the distance. The air was bracing, and exciting,
and we almost envied the habitats of some Arabs, which
we found scattered here and there. I sketched an Arab
village of ten houses, and will endeavour to describe the
general aspect of these dwellings. In all Moorish country
houses, great or small, it is usually a marked feature that
no good road runs near them. In the case of those near
Algiers, to which this description does not apply, the
French roads have come to them, they never came to
the road. A steep, rugged donkey-path was the only
approach desired; for greater security, probably, against
any predatory foes, or hereditary enemies.
The poorer Arabs imitated their betters. Hence these
queer-looking villages, or isolated huts, are always found
in glens, or ravines, or far up the mountain-side, where
they may easily see any intending visitor from a safe
-
very productive. Commandant Payen speaks of above 100,000 hectares
(200,000 acres) of land naturally fertile in the Plain of the Hodna. He says
the immense hydraulic constructions erected by the Romans in this, and other
large plains, have all been suffered to go to ruin from the ignorance or care-
lessness of the natives. He adds in his report to the Archæological Society of
Constantine, "After having discovered the existence of so many important
constructions, executed for the double purpose of supplying the wants of
centres of population, and obtaining means of abundant irrigation, are we
not justified in believing in the flourishing state of the Hodna in the days of
antiquity, and that labour and capital could now produce cotton?" Com-
mandant Payen goes on to express his belief that the "long staple" could be
easily raised, and that it would be "largely remunerative."
A WINTER IN ALGERIA,
227
distance, Picture, then, the sort of out-house which may
be seen attached to most English farms, consisting of little
more than a low, long, thatched roof, just caught when
almost in the act of touching the ground, and made to
rest on a sort of thicket some two or three feet high.
Leave a space wide enough to crawl in, and out; compose
your thicket of reeds, which here grow ten, and even
reach twenty feet high; lace them with the same, or
with branches of palm trees, or more probably the dwarf
fan palm; hang a curtain, or matting, of aloe fibre at the
aperture, and you have the hut of the poorer Arabs.
At length we saw on a height, a French village called
Vesoul-benyan, which we were told was only one hour distant
from Millianah, but as the heat was getting very great, that
hour certainly seemed the longest of the day. We were
now nearing the neighbourhood of wild beasts; panthers,
and even lions, being occasionally found in this vicinity.
It was, therefore, with a sort of anticipation of such sights
that we hailed the appearance of a wild boar, though I am
obliged to add that it was a tame one! A chained monkey,
and a tame wild boar! Rather letting us down; but
we were not a sporting party, and so we submitted with
as good grace as needs be. The lion in the neighbour-
hood of Millianah is said to possess great strength, and
boldness, and to keep up the character of its Numidian
predecessor. The Arabs tell marvellous tales of its gene-
rosity, and forbearance; and I confess to feeling shockingly
romantic, and somewhat anxious to prove their truth.
Tigers are happily never found in these fastnesses.
At length Millianah lay before us, with a wide, beautiful,
and peculiarly French-like approach thereto. A long,
good road, sweeping round the hill, and entering the
town through a long avenue of poplars, the tall, red-tiled,
white-washed military buildings, of course, predominating
Q 2
228
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
in the picture, made a tout ensemble as like the French
toys representing a town, with trees for the approach, as
one could possibly see.
66
It was half-past 5 o'clock when we drove through the
strong-looking, fortified gates, and alighted at the Hotel
D'Isly. Here.we were in clover. The rooms were all
we could desire, and the table d'hôte, so called, the best
we have seen in Algeria. I say so called," for at every
hotel the dining-room is filled with little tables, and large
tables, where parties of any dimensions can be accommo-
dated; but in no case have they one table, and one hour.
Déjeuners are usually going on from 10 to 12, and
dinners from 5 to 7.
But we earned our repast by first visiting the ramparts,
and determining whither to bend our steps next morning.
We had also to telegraph for a relay of horses to meet
us at Bour-kika, as we wished to be at Blidah Friday
evening. There is some encouragement to use the electric
wires in this land, where a message of twenty words
only costs tenpence. Why cannot our telegraphic com-
panies make themselves equally available to the world at
large? The history of the penny postage might teach
them that they would be the gainers in the end. But to
return to the ramparts; neither inside the walls, nor out-
side, was there much to remind us that we were in a
Moorish town. Everything African, saving a large moiety
of the inhabitants, was merged in the garb of the French
conquest. Millianah is, however, in virtue of its situa-
tion, decidedly the most picturesque-looking town we
have yet seen. So abrupt is the edge of the cliff on
which it is situated, that we could conjure up in imagi-
nation many a Tarpeian rock, whence, in the lawless
days of Moorish rule, probably many a sufferer had been
hurled. On all sides mountains arose; yet at such height
A WINTER IN ALGERIA,
229
is the town itself, Millianah being 2,925 feet above the
level of the sea, that those immediately behind it—such
as Zakkar-R'arbi, 4,602 feet high, at whose base the
town is situated-did not look more difficult of ascent
than the Malvern hills.
But Mr. H. was still suffering from our passage through
the plain; and dinner, nursing, and bed, were at this
moment the first things to be thought of; so the sun set,
and the moon rose, on hopeful anticipations for the
morrow.
230
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
CHAPTER XXI,
STILL AMIDST THE ATLAS.
Mohammed-ma-el-hadj-Laghouat-Ancient Millianah-Distance from the
Desert-Account of Millianah-History of Abd-el-Kader-Ruse of the
Moor-Failure of French Colonization in Algeria-Cost of this Colony to
France-Profusion of Flowers-Spanish Horsekeeper's Trick-Return to
Blidah.
ANOTHER glorious daybreak, beckoning us upwards to
the heights behind the town. But, alas! I could prevail
on no one to accompany me, and had to be contented
with a walk to the higher ramparts, which are far more
extensive than those at Medéah.
Just as we reached them, a good-looking Moor came
up, and introduced himself as a sergeant in the 1ère Turco
regiment, by name Mohammed-ma-el-hadj, who had fought
at Sebastopol, wore the Crimean medal, and professed a
profound regard for the English. This he evidenced by
volunteering his services as our cicerone, and proposing to
show us whatever was to be seen in that vicinity. We
saw Medéah in the distance, like a thin white line on
the edge of a hill, through the cuttings in the mountains.
The name of each Alp seemed familiar to our guide, but
I only jotted down two of them-that of Sacchar, over-
hanging Millianah, and of Wincheris, the peculiar sugar-
loaf summit of which had attracted our attention both
here and at Medéah.
We were now only one day's journey from Teniet,
where we might have spent the night at the Hotel des
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
231
Cédres, and next morning proceeded to the forest but
two hours beyond Teniet, and there have spent the day
under the grateful shelter of the cedars. Rumour, how-
ever, still speaks of an émeute at Teniet amongst the
Arabs; and in going in any direction beyond either
Medéah, or Millianah, one requires to be furnished with
letters of introduction to the commanding officers of the
Spahis.
As to my hope of visiting Laghouat, two of our small
party so definitely pronounced against it, that it has long
since been abandoned. The heat there is said to be
terrific, and to tax even Arab endurance. The Irishman
says-
"The dearest delight that is under the sun
Is to sit by the fire till the praties are done."
But the Arab's view of the highest bliss to be enjoyed
under heaven, is (according to a French translation)—
"Dormir la tête à l'ombre, les pieds au soleil."
This happiness is not to be enjoyed at Laghouat. If
they did not betake their understandings into the shade,
as well as the remainder of their personnel, their feet
would soon be double baked. No less than 25,000 palm-
trees are, it is said, to be seen around Laghouat.
Time, too, just now was pressing; so altogether we
had to content ourselves with casting a longing eye over
the mountains, towards the forest, the desert, and the
palm groves, and to be able to say we had seen their
whereabouts.
In climbing the scarp rocks around the fortifications of
Millianah, I was struck by the. petrifactions of marine
shells they contained; and we pointed them out to
Mohammed, as a proof that the sea had once been there.
"Oh, yes," he said; "certainly; the whole part around
232
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had once been under water." But as his French was
somewhat imperfect, it was difficult to make out what
ideas he attached to this admission.
""
I think it was here for the first time that we realized,
in its full extent, the fact that we were standing on a
wide continent. I used to think the favourite American
remark on visiting England-" that they were afraid to
get out of bed of a morning, lest they should fall into the
sea -a piece of unmitigated impudence, utterly inde-
fensible. But on afterwards visiting the Channel Isles,
I confess to a sensation somewhat akin to the Yankees',
until familiarized with the small dimensions of the
island. And now, standing on this elevation, looking
down on the grand plain of the Cheliff, and across at the
mountains, as in their unmeasured sweep they begirt the
horizon, ever and anon, heights more distant peeping up in
the far background, I recalled the aforesaid Americanism,
and felt almost inclined to condone it. There is, how-
ever, no fear of one's love for our sea-girt isle, being lost
in admiration for the land of Ham; and so, I think, all
our guides must conclude, if they understand the per-
petual expression issuing from the lips of one or other of
our party," Ah! if only this country were in the hands
of the English, how different it would be!"
The territory around Millianah is extremely fertile,
and gives the idea of a well-watered garden. There are
several objects worth seeing within a short walk. The
cascades of the rivers Boutan, and Rehan, are pretty, and
so is the young pépinière in the "avenue of Blidah." The
population is about 3,500. They have, of course, their
saint a Sidi Mohamed-ben-Yussef-who died here about
four centuries ago, after performing unheard-of miracles.
There seems no reason to question the statement that
the Millianah of the present day, stands on the site of
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233
the Malliana of the Romans. The large quantity of
Roman remains which have been found, or dug up, attest
the presence of their former masters. A large Roman
monument in the centre of the town, has been removed
to make room for the new streets constructed by the
French; but in the surrounding walls, and in many
private houses, bas-relievos are still to be seen. Frag-
ments of statues, flutes, and capitals of columns, which
once supported the koubba of a Marabout, medals and
sepulchral remains, some of which now ornament the
mosques, and are used as basins for purposes of ablution,
all prove its Roman origin, and attest its former prosperity.
It is supposed that this ownership passed away with the
fifth century, and that about the tenth century, or fourth
of the Hegira, the Millianah of the Moslems was founded
by Bologguin, the son of Ziri, at the same period as
Algiers, and Medéah.
Often, however, since then, in the bloody struggles of
the Mahomedans amongst themselves, has the fated city
exchanged masters. After the fall of Hussein Dey, in
1830, the Emperor of Morocco took possession of the
place, and making it part of the Beylik of Titteri, esta-
blished a lieutenant in command; but ABD-EL-KADER,
whose power was now daily increasing, soon dispossessed
him, and occupying Millianah in his turn, installed
Ali-ben-Embarek as khaliff.
As the history of the celebrated Abd-el-Kader is inter-
woven with that of French dominion in Algeria, it may
not be uninteresting to give a slight sketch of it. He
was born in 1807, in the environs of Mascara, among the
Hachem tribe. His father, Sidi-el-Mahiddin, a Marabout
of high repute, whose genealogy could be traced back
direct to the Prophet, kept a guetna, or seminary, at which
Abd-cl-Kader, and his three brothers were educated. So
234
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
precocious was his intellectual development, that from his
very childhood he could explain the most difficult pas-
sages of the Koran.
of the Koran. At a later date he made himself
equally acquainted with the history of his nation. Even-
tually he earned the titles of saint, and savant. At the
same time, he excelled in all the athletic exercises in
which the Arabs love to distinguish themselves, and
became renowned in the use of the yataghan, and the
management of his horse. All this caused no small appre-
hension to the Dey of Algiers, whose practised eye dis-
cerned a future rival, and, as prevention is better than
cure, he tried to procure his assassination.
Abd-el-Kader was now forced, in self-defence, to flee
into Egypt; and here for the first time he came in con-
tact with European civilization at Cairo, and Alexandria.
Not to waste his time, he employed it in pilgrimages to
Mecca, and thereby gained a farther claim on the con-
sideration of his countrymen.
When he revisited his native land, the French were in
partial possession of Algeria. The Arab tribes, in and
around Oran, thought the moment favourable for regaining
their independence, rose to arms under the command of
Abd-el-Kader's father, fought the Turks, surprised and
took Mascara, and wished to make Si-cl-Mahiddin their
king; this honour he declined in favour of his son,
whose fame had already spread from the coast, to the
Grand Desert.
Abd-el-Kader willingly assumed their leadership, and
proclaimed a holy war. Ten thousand cavaliers crowded
round the banners of the Emir. His first campaign was
against Oran, which he besieged in 1832, giving proofs of
extraordinary courage, and daring; only retiring after a
battle which lasted three days. His influence soon spread;
he became the sole chief of all the various tribes who
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235
opposed the French dominion, and, in 1834, had the satis-
faction of concluding a treaty with General Desmichels,
which made the Cheliff the limit of his possession, but gave
him a real kingdom, with Mascara for his capital. All
the commerce of the province of Oran was ceded to him,
and the new rulers had some hopes of his delivering them
from the embarrassments, into which their sudden acqui-
sition of territory, and peoples so strange, had thrown
them.
Instead of realising this expectation, their difficulties
were speedily increased. Breaking the terms of the
treaty, Abd-el-Kader passed the Cheliff, and took Medéah.
Marshal Clauzel, who went to meet him, found himself
confronted by a superior force, and was obliged to retire.
This naturally raised the proud hopes of the Arabs, and
the French power trembled for a moment in the balance..
After reverses, alternating with successes on either
side, the first real blow to the prestige of Abd-el-Kader
was dealt by General Bugeaud, who, after a severe cam-
paign in 1840, took Mouziah, Medéah, and Millianah,
and reduced the Arab leader to defensive operations. A
further, and bloody battle, was needed to conquer him.
General Bugeaud, now Governor of Algiers, proved him-
self equal to the task. Mascara, Abd-el-Kader's capital,
surrendered in 1841, and the following year the Emir
himself escaped to Morocco.
Hitherto the Emperor of Morocco had maintained
strict neutrality; but at the persuasion of his guest, he
was induced, in 1844, to attack the French positions.
The decisive victory, however, gained at Isly by General
Bugeaud over his troops, and the bombardment of
Mogador, and Tangiers, by the Prince de Joinville, cured
the Emperor of any desire openly to support Abd-el-
Kader. However, his reputation for sanctity procured
236
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the Emir money, and friends, among the fanatics of the
empire, and for a while it seemed that the struggle must
be indefinitely prolonged. For two years longer he held
his ground; but at length, overcome by numbers, Abd-el-
Kader yielded to necessity, and surrendered to General
Lamoricière. He made but one condition, which was
conceded. He stipulated to be conveyed either to
Alexandria, or St. Jean d'Acre.
How this treaty was observed, all the world knows.
Fearing a repetition of Elba, the French thought it wisest
to take him direct to France. He was confined in the Fort
Lamalgue, at Toulon, afterwards at the Château de Pau,
and finally at that of Amboise, whence he was released
at the intercession of Lord Londonderry, in 1852. Ever
since the hero has lived in strict seclusion at Damascus,
surrounded by his brothers, and relatives, who still hold
him in the highest esteem.
To return to Millianah. On the 8th of June, 1840,
the present conquerors appeared before its gates, at
whose approach the Arabs fled, after setting fire to the
town, which, aided by a burning sun, so promptly took
effect, that the French on entering, found it a mass of
ruins, and had the greatest difficulty in repairing the
houses least damaged, sufficiently to make winter quarters
for the troops. They were not, however, destined to win
the prize without a struggle, for ere the winter set in,
Abd-el-Kader's soldiers had established a strict blockade,
and communications with Algiers were almost entirely
cut off. In the month of October, General Changarnier
came to the relief of the garrison, who were already deci-
mated by casualties, pestilence, and famine. M. de Cas-
tellane says that it is perhaps at Millianah that the
endurance of the French soldier in Algeria, has been most
rudely tested. He mentions, that out of the 1,200 men
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
237
which composed the garrison under Colonel Illens, 700
were killed, while 400 were in hospital, and the surviving
100 had scarcely strength to serve the guns, so that had
not succour then arrived, the town must have been
retaken for lack of defenders.
The face of things was altogether changed, by the
expeditions of 1842, when the brave, though vanquished
Abd-el-Kader, had to seek refuge in the province of Oran.
It is, nevertheless, only since 1850 that a civil admini-
stration, definitively attesting its tranquillity, and perfect
subjugation, has been established at Millianah. The form
of the town is rectangular, and additional defences are in
process of construction. The few Moorish houses which
have survived the wreck, and ruin of the wars, are built
of limestone capped with red tiles.
Millianah boasts two hotels, three or four cafés, a circus
and library for the military, and a museum of antiquities.
This, being Friday morning, was the Arab market day,
and Mohammed conducted us to the market-place on our
road back to the hotel. We were more amused at the
affectionate greetings, and salutations, which took place
between himself, and his friends, who had come in from
the country for the day, than at anything displayed for
purchase. Before reaching the town, as we passed the
fortifications, we were edified at observing the very de-
corous gravity with which the French soldiers on duty,
presented arms to our guide, as he passed.
On arriving at the hotel, where we found breakfast
waiting for us, at 10 o'clock, we thought it time to bow
our friend off, though after private consultations had, we
were quite at a loss, whether or not, the offer of a franc
or two, in addition to a cup of coffee, which he readily
accepted, would wound his dignity. However, Moham-
med hastened to set our minds at rest, by himself
238
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proposing the desired quid pro quo, which had evidently
dictated his disinterested attentions. He had a little
errand in contemplation, more than half-way on the
road to Blidah, and he had mentally resolved to do the
thing in style. We occupied four seats, and the fifth
was taken up with et ceteras, so that had he propounded
his scheme when in full council assembled, we should
certainly have met it with a polite refusal. But "divide
and conquer" is strategic policy, and our Moor pursued
it. He managed to see Mrs. E. alone, and mentioned it
to her, when she wisely said at once, it was impossible,
we had no room. But in spite of this, concealing what
had passed, he next sought a private parley with others
of our party less able to say "No," and this, coupled with
his assurance that it was only for a very little way, made
us feel it needful to inconvenience ourselves, out of grati-
tude to our guide. At half-past 10 we left the town,
our friend seated on the box, when, from the attention
he attracted, as we passed through the wondering Arabs,
I should gather that this was the first time such a ruse
had succeeded.
Adieu, beautiful Millianah! None of us had visited
Palestine, yet Jerusalem seemed present to all our minds.
Built on hills, with fruitful fields beneath, and mountains
round about it, we wondered if Mount Zion (in itself) were
more beautiful. We passed under the Porte du Zacchar,
which is its northern entrance; that of Orleans, or of the
Cheliff, as the gate is usually called, guarding its western
approach. Turning to the east, our road overhung a
well-cultivated ravine, forming gardens close up under
the walls. We procured a photograph of the town, taken
from this side, which gives a good idea of it to those who
have seen it, but fails, as I think all photographs of moun-
tainous countries do, to give an adequate idea of its
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
239
beauty to those who have not. And now came the long-
continued descent, bringing before us views of grandeur
which appeared even finer than on the preceding day.
For isolated passes, we often found a counterpart in our
own English, Welsh, Scotch, and Irish scenery, but the
tout ensemble could nowhere be paralleled in our island
home; and if for a moment we tried to cheat ourselves
into the belief, the next turning brought before us some
truly magnificent view of mountains receding back to-
wards the Desert, till we felt we were in the grasp of a
continent.
•
But the want of population, gives almost an oppressive
sense of something akin to desolation. Surely the un-
turned sods of these wild glens, and ravines, would
amply reward the use of the hoe, and the pickaxe, and
find subsistence for thousands who are now perishing in
Europe, for lack of employment, and for want of bread.
Perhaps, however, this will ever be hunger-stricken
miserables congregating in our towns, and vast wilds un-
touched on every continent--until the time come when
the desert will rejoice, and blossom as the rose.
Certain it is that emigration to French Algeria has
not as yet succeeded; and from all the inquiries we have
been able to make, the cause seems twofold. First, the
impediments thrown in its way by the Government, who
have no conception of encouraging peaceful emigration;
and secondly, because the colonists are usually quite
devoid of sufficient capital. A thousand francs is deemed
a fortune to start with in such cases; and the delays
and vexations, the numerous petty officials to be en-
countered, and the consequent expenses through which
the intending exile has to pass, swallow up his small
resources, before he is fairly afloat in his undertaking.
It has been calculated that, since the conquest of
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Algeria, France has spent three milliards of francs on
this promising colony; and, notwithstanding this large
outlay, at this moment there are not 200,000 colonists,
in all the vast tracks of African soil subject to her rule.
This estimate, of course, includes emigrants, and settlers,
from every nation.
If asked with what vegetation every hill-side we
descended was clothed, one would have unhesitatingly
replied, "With furze bushes, covered with golden blos-
som;" but a closer inspection dispelled the illusion.
Every bush was low underwood of cypress, lentisk, or
live oak, and the golden blossom, which grew in such wild
luxuriance, was yellow broom, slightly scenting the air.
The patches of flowers produced a curious effect. Here
and there the edge of a rock would be covered for some
yards with a bright copper colour, or iron hue, as if
tinged by a neighbouring mine; but marigolds would
prove to be the cause. Then beds of the scarlet anemone,
or of pimpernel in its bright dress of cobalt blue, or
many-coloured China-asters, or vetches, and orchises of
every shade, met our delighted gaze, and made us long to
transplant them to our English gardens. The huge
leaves, amidst which we had always expected to see
some day an enormous lily, and which are everywhere
to be found, Mohammed told us bore no flowers, and he
added, to our great disappointment, that it was a species
of garlic!
The blue transparent atmosphere was left far above us,
when we crossed the Oued-Hammam, and pursued our
course for some way along its banks, through a sort of
common, richly studded with what we should call in
an English garden, "American beds."
American beds." At proper dis-
tances from one another, so as almost to look as if laid
out under Sir J. Paxton's directions, were to be found
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
241
groups of lentisks with their exquisite berries, daphnes,
laurustinus, and carob-bushes, with the gum cistus inter-
mingling. Here and there was a fine olive-tree; and
between two of these, we saw a gipsy's tent suspended
beside the running stream. The sky above was still
cloudless, and the only check upon our enjoyment was,
that our horses were getting thoroughly done up, and
the hour was long past at which we should have made
Bourkika. It was now five o'clock; our friend on the
box showed no signs of having finished his very short
journey, and every additional weight was a burden to
our tired steeds.
We were congratulating ourselves with the idea that a
few minutes more, and we should find a relay awaiting
us at Bourkika. From thence, with fresh horses, we
might, on a good and level road, possibly reach Blidah in
two and a half hours more. What was our disgust, as
we drove up, to hear the inquiry, "Which of your horses
is freshest? I have only brought two." Scoldings were
vain, and expostulations unheeded. We had to submit
to having one poor, tired animal re-harnessed, after only
a quarter of an hour's rest, and to jog on as best we
might. We now took the unwelcome step to Mohammed
of giving him his congé, and requesting him to walk the
rest of the "very little way," which I strongly suspect
was somewhere near Blidah. But in spite of this little
assistance to our wearied horses (for one of the two sent,
seemed quite as tired as the one which had come from
Millianah), it was nine o'clock ere we reached the hotel,
and sat down to the dinner which we had ordered at
seven.
Our host told us, and for the comfort of future tourists
I will record it, that had we left the arrangement in his
hands, he would not only have seen that the full comple-
R
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A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
ment of horses was sent, but he would have had them
despatched, as promised, over-night, instead of only just
in time for our arrival.
Blidah had not been properly inspected on our previous
visit, so we determined to devote the whole of the fol-
lowing day to seeing it, returning to Algiers by the
latest train.
Friday is the day on which the Arab market is here
held in the "sacred olive grove," at the entrance to the
town, but as it always commences at early dawn, we saw
nothing of it.
- A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
243
CHAPTER XXII
BOMBONNEL THE PANTHER-SLAYER.
Sights of Blidah-Skins of Wild Animals-Stories of Bombonnel the Panther-
slayer-His Adventures-Narrow Escape-Fertility of Blidah-Its Arcades
and Buildings-More about the Kabyles-Hills around Blidah-Moorish
Tombs.
Saturday, April 9th.-This morning dawned upon the
tourist as auspiciously as each of its predecessors had done.
Before starting, we had learned from the Admiral Fitzroy
of Algiers, that storms, and tempests, were to be our portion
on the 4th and 5th instant. However, not even a threat-
ening of rain had clouded our enjoyment; and as we
assembled once more for our early coffee, we agreed that
we could not be thankful enough for all the sunny mercies.
which had befallen us by the way. The sights of the
little country town-for such Blidah is—are nothing very
remarkable. We first came upon a quantity of skins,
exhibited at a shop in the Place, of the wild animals
which had been caught in the neighbourhood of Millianah,
and had, after great deliberation, made up our minds as
to some few purchases in this line, when the shopman
informed us they were not exposed for sale! Fifty dozen,
he said, had been sent him to preserve, and we could not
have one.
Vondrous stories, by the way, were told of the almost
fabulous adventures of M. Bombonnel, "the panther-
slayer," who passed last winter, as well as the preceding
one, in Algiers, for the sole purpose of ridding Algeria of
R 2
244
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its lions, and panthers. Mrs. E., who had also spent the
two previous winters here, had frequently met M. Bom-
bonnel, and heard from his own lips, recitals of the
adventures which so nearly cost him his life.
This man, who has gained great celebrity in Africa,
seems to have been a chasseur from his birth, and subse-
quently to have profited well from some lessons he gained
amongst the Red Indians of America. Business having
led him to Algeria, he heard dreadful tales of the ravages
committed by panthers among the Arab tribes. The only
means then known for ridding themselves of this scourge,
were battues on a large scale. M. Bombonnel diligently
gathered up all the information to be gleaned on the
subject, and convinced himself that a battue monstre was
far more dangerous, and far less likely to be successful,
than meeting the beast in single fight.
This last had, indeed, been practised by the more
daring among the Arabs; but they always, in such cases,
took aim from a tree, which they had the precaution to
ascend, so as to be out of harm's way; for it is a known
fact, that the panther never allows its hind legs to quit
the ground. All these practices were disdained by the
future "panther-slayer," who decided upon going entirely
alone, trusting for cover only to some bush, devoting the
night to his dangerous pursuit, and always taking with
him a goat, and its kid, to act as decoys to the animal,
which he was now bent on exterminating from the
French dominions.
The poor goat was found necessary, as the panther is
somewhat delicate in its eating, and will not touch a
dead animal. In addition, Mons. B. preferred offering his
destined victim a bon bouche which might withdraw
attention from himself, and keep it quiet, long enough to
enable him to take steady aim. It was long before the
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
245
Arabs could be persuaded to let him go out on his perilous
adventures, so afraid were they that, if his life paid the
penalty of his temerity, the tribe among which he was at
the time, would be called by the French Government to a
heavy reckoning.
But opportunities were not long wanting in which to
prove alike his daring, and his success. A bribe of thirty
or forty francs, prevailed on many an Arab to bring him
early information of the whereabouts of some panther, or
leopard (for Mons. B. regards the two as identical), and to
conduct him to the most likely spot for a rencontre. The
money, by the way, was not to be paid until the brute
was slain. Fortune smiled on his plan. The bleating of
his goat, after perhaps many a sleepless vigil, usually
ended in attracting a panther, and as surely as it came
within range of Bombonnel's trusty gun, so surely, if the
moon shone, was the dreaded beast laid prostrate at
his feet.
Until he had attained his after fame, the Arabs were
most incredulous as to his ever surviving an encounter,
which they deemed so perilous, fool-hardy, and hopeless.
On one occasion, an old Arab chief having listened to
his story with an air of incredulity, turned to his tribe,
and demonstrated to them, in Arabic, that M. Bombonnel
was evidently a fool, or a maniac. He appealed to his
head men, as to whether any twelve of them would go out
at night, as Mons. B. proposed doing alone; and having
thus convinced both himself, and his hearers, of the folly
of such a proceeding, ended with forbidding any of them
to sell poor Bombonnel a goat, or to render him the
slightest assistance. The only thing to which the chaouch
would consent was, to despatch two of his mounted Arabs
to escort Mons. B. back to Algiers-a two days journey
-and there to obtain his credentials as a "panther-.
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A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
slayer." These having been readily obtained, his com-
panions implored him to return with them. The captain
of the Bureau Arabe had promised to hold them guiltless
in case of his death; but Bombonnel refused, amiably
telling them his only wish now was, that the panther
(which had recently robbed them of a cow) might speedily
eat up all their flocks, and finish off with themselves by
way of dessert.
.
Before long, however, his name was a household word
amongst every Arab tribe; and as soon as he arrived in
Algeria for the season, the invitations which regularly
poured in upon him from all quarters were most gratify-
ing to him as a hunter. "Figure toi," so ran one in-
vitation; "only eight days since I myself possessed
twenty-five goats; now the panther has left me but
eight." The gratitude of the poor Arabs, when they
came to regard him as their deliverer, was frequently
expressed with most extravagant demonstrations. Great
feasts were given in his honour; and as, in addition to
their dread of the brute, money and courage will go
anywhere, or effect anything amongst the Arabs, M.
Bombonnel had no reason to complain of a lack of game
being prepared for his gun. It seems to have been a
dear-bought pleasure in several particulars, and at best
of times a wearisome one. Eight, ten, twelve consecutive
nights were sometimes passed in keeping watch, in almost
breathless suspense, and then the waning moon would
force the devoted hunter to return unrequited to Algiers.
Another peculiarity in the habits of the panther, is its
intense dislike to getting its feet wet, and this increases
the difficulty of tempting it to a given spot, during the
rainy season. If its paw touches mud, it will at once
stop to clean it, being in this respect as particular as
a cat.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
247
The following story will exemplify the danger Mons. B.
incurred. Having arrived by appointment amongst the
Ben-Assinatt tribe, he found his decoy-goat prepared as
usual. The Arabs picketed it, and hastily left him.
Scarcely had he established himself in a thick bush on
the edge of a cliff, than, swift as the lightning's flash,
a panther fell on the goat, whose death-cry was instan-
taneous. The moon, which had been veiled in obscurity,
now cast its straggling beams on a neighbouring tree.
A few seconds more, and Bombonnel would have the
light he pined for. He mentally prayed Saint Hubert
that the panther might wait to devour his prey; but
alas in another moment, quietly as though a cat had
been carrying a mouse, the brute passed, bearing the goat
between his teeth. Unwisely-for the faint moonbeams
only revealed a black mass, distinguishing neither head
nor tail-Bombonnel fired. Thirty-four nights of fruit-
less waiting had made the panther-slayer forget all rules
of prudence, and dearly he now paid for his temerity.
All was silent for a moment. The panther had been
heard to fall. Bombonnel issued in triumph from his
retreat, when the wounded and infuriated beast rose
and sprang upon him. Its two fore paws had been so
wounded as to be useless. But with its hinder paws, it
gave a spring of, at least, ten feet, pounced upon poor
Bombonnel, threw him over, fell upon him, as the
"panther-slayer" describing it afterwards said, "with
the weight of a locomotive," and made desperate efforts
to strangle him. Happily the thick collar, and hood of
his paletot, upraised to ward off the night chills, now
stood him in good stead. With his left hand he tried to
defend himself; his right hand sought his knife. In
vain-for in the entanglement his belt had become dis-
placed, and his hunting-knife was under him!
248
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
Imagination almost fails to paint the sequel. Another
instant, and his left hand was horribly mangled; in a
moment more, his face. The fangs of the beast entered
his forehead, and nose, penetrated the corner of his left
eye, and broke his cheek bone.
With the bravery of desperation, Bombonnel, who had
relinquished the futile search for his knife, now clung to
the hope of strangling the beast, as his only chance of
life. But, before he could raise both hands, the panther
had once again seized his face sideways, and burying its
formidable teeth in his flesh, cracked his jaws! The
indescribable agony produced by this last attack, the
noise which sounded in his brain, the sensation of having
his head ground in a mill, or pounded in a mortar—the
only similes to which he could liken it-made him give
up all for lost.
Horrors still greater had yet to be endured. The
panther next took the hunter's face in his mouth, from
whence issued a most horrible, infected odour-stifling,
poisoning him! Yet, strange to say, his entrance into
this awful cavern, nerved Bombonnel afresh with almost
superhuman strength. Seizing with both hands the
panther's neck, which he described as of the thickness
of a hat, and hard as the trunk of a tree, Bombonnel
squeezed it with the force which despair alone could
give, and threw away from him the terrible head. Rushing
back in fury, the beast threw itself on his left arm, and
inflicted four enormous wounds above his elbow. But
for his thick, and heavy clothing, his arm would have
been shattered as so much glass.
During the whole of this awful struggle, Bombonnel
had lain flat on his back, his head on an inclined slope,
at the very edge of the ravine; his legs raised up to aid
in his defence; over him the panther, whose frightful
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
249
roarings made the Arabs tremble like aspen leaves in their
distant retreat, some four or five hundred paces away.
Again the panther tried to grasp his head, again Bom-
bonnel managed to repulse him, but the contest thus
waged, was too unequal to be indefinitely prolonged.
While gasping for breath, the hapless man once more
felt his head seized, and engulfed in the large mouth.
Exerting then his whole remaining force, heedless of
death, if dashed to pieces in the abyss beneath, uniting
rage, and strength, in one supreme effort, he succeeded in
disengaging himself. As with the convulsive energy of
a dying man, he grasped the beast with both hands, lifted
it
up with tremendous force, whirling it over his head as
though it had been a foot-ball-so vigorously, so unex-
pectedly that the panther, with its fore-paws mangled
and useless, unable to resist, slid over him down the rapid
descent, and rolled into the ravine beneath, filling all the
neighbouring air with the thunder of its roarings. Our hero
felt the teeth of the beast graze his scalp, as he tore away
its head; he saw the thickly-wadded hood of his hunter's
coat still in its hideous jaws; he knew-for conscious-
ness lasted long enough to enable him to realize the fact
-that deliverance had come at last, and then, and not
before, Bombonnel sank back exhausted!
The only
marvel is that he survives to tell the tale, and point with
a pardonable pride to his scars, and to the procès-verbal,
which authenticates his story, and describes the awful
gashes, and wounds, which were found on his person.
Fifteen days after, a party of Arabs were brave enough
to venture down into the ravine, and ascertain the fact of
the panther's decease!
It were too long to tell how the Arabs grieved, and
how tenderly they bore him to their douar, and how
they at first resisted, and finally acquiesced in, his desire
250
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
to be taken back to more civilized habitations; and how
they sent express to Algiers for a doctor; and how at
length one was found in M. le docteur Bodichon, bold
enough, and skilled enough, to undertake his cure; and
how successfully that was performed; and how his
ardour has not cooled, but makes him willing as ever to
be the panther-slayer of Algeria. Indeed, his cicatrices
were scarcely healed, before he again set off into the
interior to avenge himself, and this time successfully,
upon a brother, or relative of the panther that had so
nearly cost him his life. All this, and much more, future
visitors to Algiers may perhaps learn from his own
recitals. He has not been here as yet this season, but
corresponds with, and often talks of returning to visit,
his friends in North Africa.
The skins which we saw, but could not carry away,
have led to a long, but perhaps not uninteresting digres-
sion, and have left us but little time for a hasty inspec-
tion of Blidah.
In the province of Algiers, this town holds foremost
rank. As regards fertility, it is unsurpassed by any other
*While these pages are passing through the press, I hear from a friend
that Bombonnel is again in Algeria, at his old pursuits, and an anecdote so
characteristic of the Arabs is related, that I cannot but give it.
The Chef of the Bureau Arabe of Tizi-Ouzou lately wrote to beg Bombonnel
to come to him as soon as possible, to try his skill on two panthers that had
made terrible devastation in the neighbourhood. The moon was at its full—
the great desideratum on these occasions-and the hunter did not require a
second invitation.
On arriving at Tizi-Ouzou, he found the Chef, who was also a Captain of
the Spahis, in a great state of alarm. A panther had, only the day before,
killed one of his wives, and not finding her to his taste, proceeded to kill, and
devour one of his cows! Strict etiquette forbids all mention of such
domestic appendages, but under the circumstances, Bombonnel felt himself
at liberty to condole with the bereaved husband. Impatiently interrupting
his expressions of sympathy, the Chef exclaimed, "Mais, mon ami, tu ne dis
rien sur la perte de ma vache; et moi je regrette beaucoup plus la perte de ma
vache, que celle de ma femme ! C'est tout simple, Monsieur, les femmes dans
les montagnes ne se vendent pas cher, et la mienne était déjà veille."
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
251
town, or district, owing to its soil, and an ample supply
of water.
Three sides of the Place were ornamented with arcades,
which, both here and in Algiers, seem to be considered
the ne plus ultra of all that is beautiful in masonry.
The fourth side lays open to view the new church, which,
built on the site of an ancient mosque, has only just been
completed. The only other buildings we noticed, were
the hôtels of the military division, of the Mairie, and
the Sous-Préfecture, the hospital, also the universal
theatre, and barracks. Two mosques, that of Ben-Sadoun
and that of the Turks, are still retained by the Mussul-
men. It is only since 1841 that the authorities have
ventured to replace martial law, by the civil administra-
tion. The fall of Abd-el-Kader here, as elsewhere, must
have given a death-blow to Moorish hopes of dispossess-
ing the invaders, though spasmodic efforts are still made
from time to time, to loose the chain which so hopelessly
binds them.
The Kabyles whom we saw on nearing Blidah, looked
as unlike those of their race whom we had come across in
Algiers, as a caged bird the free songsters it has left in
the forest. Their complexion, and type of feature, par-
ticularly struck us. We had read of the former as
"brown and lustrous," but we found it decidedly fair;
and though in some instances sallow, and in others of a
darker hue, yet, on the whole, they exhibited a skin
which might well have passed for a European one. We
stopped and tried to talk to many of them, particularly
children, whom we met on the hills to-day, and though
"Bonjour" was usually the extent of their French, we
managed to keep up sufficient communication by tele-
graphic signals, to gain time to study their physiognomy.
Our proximity in this excursion to the mountain dis-
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A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
trict has given us an opportunity of seeing the Kabyles
to far greater perfection than we have ever had in Algiers.
They are a race of whose character, I think we in Europe
are usually very imperfectly aware. Inhabiting as they
do the Atlas range, and comprising a large proportion
of the tribes, whether stationary or nomadic, which are
scattered over the Sahara, their numbers are probably
not over-estimated at 10,000,000. The Moors and Arabs
together are reckoned at only 3,000,000.
The round, almost German, face, with thicker lips, and
a well-knit and thoroughly well-proportioned frame, dis-
tinguish the exterior of the Kabyles in youth; but it was
what we knew of their history, which more particularly
interested us in them. Unlike the lazy Arabs, the Kabyles
have an inherent love of industry. Idleness is with them
a sin, and they train up their children to every branch of
trade. They have their own manufactures, especially of
fire-arms, and for working metals, in iron, copper, and
brass; they sell their wares to the Arabs, and Moors of
the towns. They also make large quantities of olive-oil,
and fabricate the universal burnouse from the wool of their
own mountain sheep. Justice is administered amongst
them by their Amins, and from the fixed scale of fines
which punishes various transgressions, the following are
extracted :-
Striking with the fist
Levelling a gun
Firing
•
For not buying a gun when the means exist
Robbery
Entering a house, if the master of it is absent
£ s. d.
0 0 4
0 12 6
4 18 0
0 10 10
•
600
600
The French have made but the most trifling modifica-
tions in their code of laws, and administration of the
same, which is simple enough. Each village has its Amin,
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
253
or chief. A Djemmah is a réunion of all the Amins, who
judge in all cases of difficulty, and see their decisions.
carried into immediate execution. The Kabyles have no
cadi. They delight in cultivation of the ground, and
engage largely in agricultural pursuits. They have almost
the Anglo-Saxon talent for imitation, and are apt learners
in every European trade.
The love of home which one usually looks for in
denizens of the hills, is not awanting here; the Kabyles
have an unconquerable love for their own special locali-
ties, and are always willing to shed their life-blood in
defence of their country. Hence the extreme difficulty
which the French met with, in attempting to sub-
jugate them. Their submission followed on that of their
celebrated prophetess, Lalla Fatma, in 1857.
Unlike other African nations, the Kabyles have been
found to possess a degree of honour, frankness, and up-
rightness, which would do credit to any people. They
despise deceit and lying; and are trusty and invaluable
allies when once they have sworn to a treaty. This was
especially proved in 1839, when they defended the persons
and property of the Europeans against the Arabs, before
whom their conduct has always stood out in strong
contrast.
After having surveyed the town, we returned to dé-
jeûner, previous to ascending the nearest hill, from which
we were told we should have a fine view of Blidah and
its environs. On reaching its summit, we found here and
there, amidst the low herbage-which does duty for our
heather, but is far less tempting to the pedestrian-the
small well-known Moslem tombs. There is something, to
my mind, very touching in finding their dead reposing
in these unexpected spots, with the hills, dark and rugged,
keeping ceaseless guard around. I wondered what might
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A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
be their date, and if any friends still survived, to come
and water the graves with their tears. They evidently
were not recent, as proved not merely by the overgrowth
which almost hid them, till we stumbled over them, but
by the absence of any jars, or vases of water, from which
the spirit was expected to come and drink.
The view well repaid the toil of ascending; the same
extensive plain, with which we have become so familiar, lay
before us, only seen from a different aspect. The bed of an
ancient river, now almost entirely dried up, except when
the rains convert it into a temporary lake near the town,
presented a somewhat curious appearance, the Tombeau
de la Chrétienne could be seen far away to the west, and
the whole panorama was so well worth a photographic
remembrance, that we visited all the booksellers' shops in
the place, hoping to carry some photos away. In this,
however, we failed, and are now in hopes of being more
successful upon our return to Algiers.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
255
CHAPTER XXIII.
EXCURSIONS TO THE INTERIOR.
A Chapter to be skipped by Fireside Travellers-Blidah the Starting-Point
for the Interior-Sea Routes-Land Routes-Outline of an Excursion to
the Desert-Description of Places to be visited of chief Interest-Ostrich
Hunting-City of Constantine-Public Gardens at Blidah-Conversation
in returning to Algiers.
PERHAPS it may seem unfair to the general readers of a
book to begin a chapter with a special request that they
will kindly pass it over; yet in justice to myself, and in
tender consideration towards others, I must premise that
a few of the following pages will only interest those who
are contemplating a tour in Algeria. Fireside travellers
are therefore entreated to omit them.
The question which most frequently reaches us from
friends who contemplate a possible visit hither, is that
respecting routes to the interior. As Blidah is now, in
virtue of its being the railway terminus, considered as
the starting-point for most of those parts, it will be as
well to halt under the trees on the Place, and study
some of the different routes. The French have cer-
tainly emulated the ancient Romans in the excellency of
their roads, and probably even surpassed them. There
is, therefore, a prima facie inducement to explore the
interior. Steamers in the service of Government run
every ten days between Algiers and Oran, leaving the
capital on the 4th, 14th, and 24th of each month, and
to Stora and Bône for Constantine (or en route to Tunis),
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A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
quitting Algiers on the 3d, 13th, and 23d of every
month. Stora being only available as a port in very
calm weather, the Government have commenced a
harbour at Philippeville, which will be a preferable
place of debarkation. Meanwhile omnibuses are in
waiting to convey passengers thither from Stora for the
sum of 75c. in summer, and 1fr. in winter. Second-
class fares from Algiers to Bône are 58fr. 80c.; and
from Algiers to Oran, 50fr. 40c. First-class places are
reserved entirely for the personnel supérieur of the
army, or for highly privileged civilians on a mission
from Government.
From Stora to Constantine there remains 83 kilo-
metres of land travelling; or if the tourist prefer landing
at Bône, he will have 156 kilometres by taking the
usual route, which is vid Jemmappes.
I have previously alluded to the désagrémens of the
Government steamers; and our present purpose is to
investigate only the land routes.
How safe these are, as
well as pleasant, may be adduced from a favourite state-
of the Arabs, that a woman may traverse the Tell and
the Sahara, honoured and unmolested, with a crown of
gold on her head. If it be so, probably the presence of
the French army on this soil, may go far to account for it.
The journey from Algiers to Oran, a distance of 440
kilometres, may be performed by diligence the whole
way in sixty-four hours. This may, of course, be less-
ened, by taking the railroad to Blidah. The public
conveyances, which run every other day, pass Blidah,
Millianah, Orléansville (where a nine hours' halt is allowed
for repose), Relizan, Mostaganem, and finally Oran. The
expense of this mode of journeying, may be easily cal-
culated in Algeria, being fixed at from ten to twelve
centimes a kilometre, according to the seats selected.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
257
The hire of a horse, or mule, varies from four, to
six francs a day, including an attendant Arab. All
these arrangements had better be concluded in writing,
before starting, at the Bureau Arabe, which will be
found in every place, presided over by French officials,
able and willing to afford the traveller every assistance.
On horseback, a choice of routes will frequently occur.
For instance, between Blidah, and Millianah, there are
three roads. One I have already described. A second,
following the Oued-Djer, is said to possess most charms
for equestrians. On leaving Blidah, it winds between
the Chiffa, and Mouzaïa. The third passes Bou-Medfa,
Aïn-Sultan, and Affreville, which last town stands on
the ruins of the Roman Zuccabar, or Colonia Augusta.
Orléansville is a grand place of resort for antiquarian
tourists. It is built on the site of the Roman town
of Castellum Tingitii; and, in digging for foundations, the
basilica of Saint Reparatus, and many other interesting
remains, have been discovered. Mostaganem is on the
sea-coast, and the road from hence skirts the Gulf of
Arzeu, a great part of the remainder of the way to Oran.
Tlemcen, a centre of considerable importance, standing
on the high road into the empire of Morocco, is distant
from Oran 130 kilometres, and may be reached by dili-
gence, one of these conveyances running daily between
the two places. Between Tlemcen, and Oran, lies the great
Salt Lake, alongside which, the road passes for a consider-
able distance. Abd-el-Kader, who added to his many
talents those of a poet, wrote some much-admired Arabie
verses in honour of Tlemcen, upon the occasion of his
conquest of the place.
Constantine may also be reached by diligences, which
go twice a week, passing Setif. From Setif to Constan-
tine, there are daily conveyances.
S
0 .
258
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
To Constantine all antiquarians will devote, if possible,
several days. Its present configuration, according to the
Arabs, resembles a burnouse spread out on the ground,
having the Casbah for its hood. To its past, and less
distinguishable form, is attached great interest, owing to
its standing on the site of Cirta, the once flourishing
capital of Numidia. When this became a Roman pro-
vince, Cirta was changed into Constantine. Several high
roads centred here; it was famed for the magnificence of
its palaces, and the munificence of its kings, and every-
thing was done to enhance its importance. A colony of
Greeks, bringing with them the industrial, and fine arts
of Greece, settled here, as early as the days of King
Micipsa.
But the story is too long, and extends too far back into
the fabulous, for any outline of the recorded past history
of Constantine to be given here. The excursions from
thence will chiefly interest the tourist, and to them alone
we will direct our attention.
Batna, which is distant from Constantine 120 kilo-
mètres, is reached by a good carriage-road; from thence
to Bou-Sâda, 200 kilomètres further on, a bridle-road in
good condition will be found. Its name being, by inter-
pretation, "the Father of Joy and Happiness," no tourist
should neglect it; but being considered by the French,
who have had possession of it since 1849, a place of
great importance, as it is of great natural beauty, and
having a history attached to it, which runs back through
various ages, and dynasties, into the days of legends, will
give it a higher claim in the eyes of antiquarians.
From Bou-Sâda to Msila is another 75 kilomètres, and
this spot should on no account be omitted. If Pisa
boasts one leaning tower, Msila has no less than ten, all
being graceful minarets. Four kilomètres further on, are
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259
the ruins of Bechilga, where a Roman inscription may be
seen, which (by introducing a few letters, which have
been defaced) is thus read :-
EDIFICATA EST A FUNDAMENTIS HUIC CIVITAS NOVA
JUSTINIANA ZABI SUB TEMPORIBUS DOMINI NOSTRI PIIS-
SIMI ET INVICTISSIMI."
Colonel Walmsley, I see, describes the interior, as
affording almost unbroken ground to the naturalist, and
the antiquary, and as being an elysium to the sportsman.
This testimony, from one who appears to have made good
use of his time when in Algeria, may well allure enter-
prising tourists to this country.
I will give only one extended tour in Algeria: from
Algiers to the Desert,* and up again to Constantine,
somewhat in the form of a distorted "V.”
Leaving Algiers, per rail, and arriving here on this
Place at Blidah, the next stage will be to Medéah, where
the tourist may rest, as we did, at a capital Hotel.
From thence he must ride, and a happy man will he be,
if he has secured a reliable barb of his own, before starting.
The following are the halting-places he will pass en route.
At 18 kil. from Medéah is Ben-Chikao, a Spahi post, and
also a telegraph station. At Berouaguïa, 32 kil. (I give
the distances from Medéah) is a small military outpost.
Boukhravi, 60 kil. is a village; 4 kil. further on, is
Boghar, a military station.
Caravansaries are to be found at Aïn-Ousera, 118 kil.;
at Guelt-el-Stel, 158 kil.; and at the Rocher-de-Sel, 200
kil. from Medéah.
At Djelfa, 224 kil. is a military outpost.
*There are no professional guides to be found in Algiers, none being
required as far as it is safe to travel. Beyond that point, reliance must be
placed entirely upon the Bureau Arabe.
s 2
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A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
At Aïn-el-Ibel, 256 kil. is a caravansary, and another
at Sidi-Makhrlouf, 326 kil., which is the last resting-place
before arriving at Laghouat, 456 kil. from Algiers.
.
LAGHOUAT, a sort of capital in the Desert, boasts an
hotel, a café, barracks, and a military hospital, a circus, a
telegraphic station, and-luxury of luxuries!-Turkish
baths. It has a population of 4,000. Its situation, at
33° 95′ north latitude, and well watered by the Oued-
Mzi, presents an oasis of the richest conceivable vegeta-
tion. The vine, the fig, the banana, and the pomegranate,
vie with all the fruits of France. But high above all
these, soar the royal palms, which here are said to grow in
magnificent luxuriance, and to number about 25,000.
From Laghouat, the next station of importance, is
R'ardeïa, a distance of 164 kilomètres. Here, too, is
the Franco-Algerian boundary line. The route may be
pursued about 130 miles beyond, by explorers who can
fearlessly throw themselves on Arab probity, to El-Golea ;
returning to Ouargla, where the French ægis will again
enshield them.
Where this detour is not contemplated, the direct route
will be taken to Ouargla; and it must be premised that
the French authorities urge all such adventurous spirits
as consult them before starting, only to venture in com-
panies, or caravans; or, better still, to seek the protection
of some column of the army, which is being sent out on
military expeditions. These expeditionary forces are,
selon themselves, to visit their outposts; according to
others, to see if these cordons cannot gradually be some-
what extended. The distances which are given from
Laghouat, are not wholly reliable, but the nearest ap-
proximations to exactitude as yet attained.
In journeying from R'ardeïa to Ouargla, the traveller
passes along the vast plain of the Sahara, meeting with
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261
an oasis on a gigantic scale, called Heicha, formed by the
junction of the rivers En-s'a, Mia, and other streams,
with names unknown to fame. Ruins of once flourishing
cities, relieve the monotony of the way, and another vast
oasis, by name Ngouça, shelters within its bosom a grove
of upwards of 80,000 date palms. Many more of these
fruitful trees are scattered about on the sand, and no less
than twenty-five artesian wells have been found in its
ruined capital, drawing water from a depth of 650 feet.
These streams are salt and bitter, but serve in their over-
flow to moisten the date palms, to whose roots all waters
seem to be alike.
Ouargla is distant about 350 kil. from Larghouat. It is
the great station in the desert, where merchants to, and
from Soudan, halt with their merchandise. The place
owns three mosques; from the lofty minaret of one of
these, the eye takes in the 150,000 palm-trees which
surround it, as with a belt of evergreen.
This neigh-
bourhood is said to possess never-ending charms for the
monad, and the hunter. Mortal vision is finite, or there
would be no limit to the horizon. Woods of pistachiers,
and wild jujube-trees (the former being a tree ana-
logous to our finest, and loftiest oaks), afford shelter to a
quantity of small game, such as gazelles, buzzards, hares,
partridges, &c.
The ostrich-hunting season is from the 25th of June
to the 10th of August, during the hottest six weeks of the
year. The reason assigned for this selection by the Arabs
is, that the heat, more than the swiftness of the hunters,
kills the bird. Not all the Arabs are permitted, by their
international code, to hunt the ostrich. As with the
falcon-chase in England of the olden time, this noble pur-
suit is only allowed to certain privileged tribes. The skin
of a male bird fetches from 150fr. to 170fr:
that of a
262
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
female bird half this price. They are eagerly bought up
by Jews from Algiers, Tunis, and Tripoli.
Before the French conquest, hunting, and pillaging the
caravans, formed the sole occupation of the wild sons of
the desert. It astounds no one so much as it does the
unconquered Arabs, to witness the effect of wholesome
French discipline, in repressing the marauding propensities
of those tribes who now bow to their sway. The tales of
the ostrich-hunters are so interesting, one feels tempted
to retail them; but we must hurry on with the route to
Constantine.
From Ouargla (31° N. lat.) to Tougourt, is about 180 kil.
repassing, at the commencement of the journey, through
the ruined city of N'goussa. Tougourt was formerly a
place of considerable importance. It still has two fau-
bourgs, Nezla, and El-Balouch; and is surrounded by
magnificent gardens, where, under the shelter of 400,000
palms, cereals, tropical plants, and vegetables of endless
variety, ripen. It has twenty mosques, and its markets
are renowned for the sale of the finest dates. It is distant
206 kil. from Biskra.
Between Tougourt, and Biskra, Tebesbet, 16 kil. from
the former, is passed, where fifty houses, and gardens, offer
repose, and refreshment to the traveller. Mgarin-Djedid
32 kil. (I give now the distances from Tougourt) numbers
200 houses and a good market.
Ksour, 35 kil.; Sidi Rachel, 39 kil. are also halting-places.
But it is needless to name the various stations. It is
sufficient to say that no fewer than thirty-three places are
mentioned between Tougourt, and Biskra, where shelter,
and sometimes food, may be obtained. A special notice
of Biskra-en-Nohkel (or Biskra of Palm-trees) seems well
merited. Its date-trees, its orangeries, its olives, and its
other fruits, are celebrated, and to the possession of
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
263
many wells, it owes the appearance of a well-watered
garden.
It was formerly a great place of resort for Moorish
pilgrims, and, rising from the mosque of Abou'l-Fadel, was
a minaret, remarkable for its immense proportions. A
loaded mule could, it is said, ascend the steps to the very
summit. A French officer once tried the experiment on
horseback, but his horse broke its legs in the descent.
The whole place is now fast going to ruins, and the in-
habitants, for the most part, pitch their tents without the
walls.
The onward route from Biskra to Constantine, via El-
Kantra and Batna, seems by all accounts, yet more inter-
esting. The traveller nears one of the great centres of
modern improvement and civilization, and the places passed
through on the road, increase proportionably in importance.
At twenty different places, during this journey of 234
kil.—either town, village, or caravansary-the wearied
traveller may seek repose. It was in crossing the Djebel-
bou-R'ezal, before descending upon Biskra, that the French
army first caught sight of the boundless sand-plains of
the Sahara. Its horizon, without mountains or other
elevations, seemingly lost in the skies, so deceived them,
that with one voice they raised a cry, "The sea! the sea!"
El-Kantra was a military position of great importance
to the Romans. That here they thickly laid their dead,
is constantly evidenced, the slightest efforts of the pick-
axe discovering the existence of Roman tombs. The
oasis of El-Kantra, is formed by the junction of three
rivers. A caravansary, and a good French hotel, exist
here; and under the shade of its beautiful palms, a popu-
lation of 1,800 Arabs pitch their tents. Going onward
to Constantine, the road passes between two of the many
salt lakes, with which North Africa abounds.
264
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
In returning to Constantine from the Desert, another
route may be pursued on reaching Tougourt, viz. that við
Tebessa. The above rough outline will probably suffice
for all needful purposes. Those who have arrived in
Algiers, will find no difficulty in obtaining detailed infor-
mation, before starting for the interior, and will be sure
to meet with every possible attention, and courtesy, from
our consul, Mr. Churchill.
Ere long, railroads will probably run on all the great
thoroughfares of Algeria, sadly marring its nomadic
charms. Till that time arrives, all travellers will be glad
to find themselves again at Blidah, after all the désagré-
mens, incidental to wandering in the Desert. Even without
this, its attractions for us were so great, that we all re-
gretted we could not remain, and spend a quiet week
amidst its orangeries.
One object of interest remained still unvisited-the
public gardens, and to see these we now set off. Our
path skirted the outer walls, which of course surrounded
Blidah on all sides. The ancient fortifications having
been demolished, the French have erected a wall about
fourteen feet high, with six good gateways, all duly
christened; the Gate of Algiers, that of the Camp de
Chasseurs, of El-Zaouïa, of El-Rabah, of El-Sebt, and of
El-Kebir. I could not but note these down, being so
struck with the politeness which gave such preponder-
ance to Arabic names. The public gardens are a quarter
of a mile from the town, and are well worth seeing. All
round a pond in the centre, were placed Egyptian Arams
in full bloom, while noble specimens of olives, the
tallest we have seen, were festooned by westerias, which
hung in beautiful lilac branches, and contrasted well
with the many colours which we saw on all sides. We
had not time to do full justice to this beautifully-shaded
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
265
retreat. Time, tide, and railways, wait for no man;
and we wended our way back to the hotel, packed up
our small effects, paid our bill, and not without some
regrets that our pleasant expedition was so nearly termi-
nated, made our way to the station just in time for the
last train.
ours.
A pleasant incident occurred by the way. We wished,
as all parties do, to secure a carriage for ourselves, but in
this perhaps selfish wish, we were thwarted. Three in-
dividuals, in separate detachments, got in on my side,
and one lady who sat opposite me, showed evident signs
of anxiety about somebody, or something, on passing the
next station, where an up-train was drawn alongside of
She had apparently satisfied herself that the
object of her search was not in the opposite train, when
we began to move off, and she caught some glimpse
which made her start up in a great state of excitement.
In vain she called to the train to stop, in vain she tried
to get out of the carriage. She poured into the sym-
pathizing ears of her fellow-travellers, her tale of woe
so volubly, that it seemed as if no chance would remain
for speaking on other subjects. I was on the point of
saying that nothing happened by chance, and that God
might have some special purpose of mercy in this dis-
appointment; but thinking it would probably be Greek
to her, remained silent. Ere long, however, she calmed
down, and the offer of some French tracts, was made to
each of our new fellow-passengers. The Monsieur by
my side looked at the title-page, looked at the end of
the tract, looked at his companions, looked at me, turned
it round very contemptuously, and, could he have caught
my eye, would have returned it forthwith. The others,
however, were steadily reading, and he had no oppor-
tunity of speaking to them, or to me. Presently the
266
A WINTER IN ALGERIA,
lady who had been so disappointed, came nearer to me,
saying, "What I have read of this little paper, Madame,
awakens regret that it is so brief." A further supply
was of course offered, and those selected that I thought
would interest her. She made many apologies for
accepting them, when the said Monsieur muttered some-
thing about "propagande,” and hinted, as far I could
make out, something about being sent out by a society.
Turning to him, I said,-
"All these little works are published, as you see,
monsieur, by the Société des Traités Religieux de Paris,
and any one may obtain them from thence, and give
them away, if he wishes to do good.”
"Oh, I have given away tracts myself."
"Are you a Protestant, or a Romanist?"
"I am a Catholic; but it is all much the same; there
is very little difference."
•
It little matters by what name we are called; but it
matters greatly whether really, or not, we are the children
of God by faith in Christ Jesus. Do you read your
Bible?"
"I have a Bible," he commenced, but went on to ex-
pound his views, which I was as glad to see were as
distasteful to my friend opposite, as to myself. She soon
undertook to silence him, and if not by much more
enlightened statements, yet it secured her what evidently
she desired a quiet conversation. She told me she was
seeking the way to heaven, and had long been endea-
vouring by reading, and prayers, to make herself meet for
death, when she hoped to find pardon and acceptance.
"But why wait for death? Why not enjoy pardon
and peace in life? Why not now?"
"Ah, that may be all right in your religion, but it
cannot be so with us. We cannot know it for certain."
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
267
And yet, Madame, we are agreed that there is but one
God, and but one heaven. Surely, therefore, there can
be but one road thither. Surely God is too good, and
too just, not to have given us full directions as to the
way by which we may find Him. Where can we hope
to find these, if not in His own Holy Word? Do you
read His Word?"
Yes, indeed, I do. But I never dared hope that
I might obtain pardon now, and know that I was really
and entirely forgiven."
"And yet God's Word speaks of immediate forgive-
ness, and present justification, for those who will accept
His offer of salvation. He says, too, Him that cometh
unto Me, I will in no wise cast out.' Christ Jesus is the
'new and living way' by which we may draw near to God.
God has Himself given His Son, that 'whosoever be-
lieveth in Him, should not perish, but have everlasting
life.' Have it now, and enjoy it on earth. Can you
believe this?"
"It is all so new to me," she replied; but she listened
with interest, as we read from a pocket Testament, and
seemed earnestly desirous to find out the way of sal-
vation. We talked together on this subject, which was
filling her heart, till we neared Algiers, when after a
pause, she said: "I shall never forget what you have said.
Present salvation! Oh! I shall not rest till I find it.
Is it not strange," she added, " that this is the first time
in all my life, that any one ever spoke to me about my
soul? I have travelled on this line repeatedly, but never
before met, and never expected to meet, any one who
would speak to me as you have done."
"God grant you may find Jesus as your Saviour, and
then seek to speak of Him to others.”
"If we never meet again on earth, may we meet in
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A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
heaven!" she said, as she warmly grasped my hand in
parting.
And now our little tour was over, and our party
separated, all agreeing that no week's trip had ever
been more pleasant, or more thoroughly enjoyed by
any of us.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
269
CHAPTER XXIV.
THE MUTINY.
Algerine Cuckoo—Tidings of the Emeute-Visit to the Imperial Observatory
-Tombs on the Bouzaréah-Ravin de la Femme Sauvage-Ride to the
Kouba-Birkadem-Rain-Gen. Yussef's Adventures-Further Tidings of
the Mutiny-Col. Beauprêre and the Origin of the Mutiny-Si-Solomon's
Wrongs-Call for Troops for the Interior-Critical State of Affairs—
Garibaldi in England-French Displeasure at his Reception.
Monday, April 11th.-Heard the first notes of the
cuckoo, and welcomed them as those of a friend just
arrived from England. What could have made the bird
so late in coming? P.P.C. cards are actually pouring in
already, though when once here, I do think people had
better stay till May. New flowers are opening, day by
day, and in another month the country will present
almost a new aspect. Strawberries are now in great
perfection, though not of the size of our English garden
ones. They are more like "hautboys." Magenta-coloured
gladiolas, yellow lupins, purple and yellow China-asters,
and vetches of every hue and colour, are now carpeting
the fields. The only excuse for leaving would be fear
of any disturbances arising in or near Algiers. Our
Zouave, it seems, was not wanted at Mexico, but for
troubles much nearer home, which, of course, the autho-
rities try to keep quiet.
Tuesday, April 12th.-The Consul dined with us
to-day. He commenced his long-promised sketch from
our upper terrace, though the mountains were not alto-
270
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
gether in their best attire. At night, we all visited the
Imperial Observatory, and saw the mountains in the
moon in a much higher state of perfection. Monsieur
Boulard had seen Lord Rosse's telescope, and had alto-
gether a great appreciation for English astronomical lore.
Wednesday, April 13th.-Rode to the Bouzaréah to
see the tombs,* which every artist tries to sketch. The
finest specimens of the fan-palm, are here to be found,
having almost the stem of the date-palm, before branching
out its fans. Arab women were there bemoaning their dead,
who, I fear, did not leave the best possible character behind
them. This spot was formerly renowned as the abode of the
most determined, and barbarous, of the many pirates who
infested this region. Some few scattered huts are all the
vestiges which now remain, of this once powerful tribe.
From the elevated situation of the Bouzaréah, 1,400 feet
above the level of the sea, we had a splendid view of the
Mediterranean, and then rode down to Saint Eugène, to
see the scarped sides of the mountain, returning home by
the same route, just in time to escape a downfall. The
rain is falling on the earth in benedictions to-night, and
until all this is over, the real Algerian summer will not
have begun. We are frequently, even now, obliged to
have fires morning and evening, though in the town such
proceedings would be inexplicable. The last steamer
brought over a gentleman and lady who had quitted Mar-
seilles in all speed, on account of the cold prevailing
there. I fear the English, who are now leaving by every
steamer, will find out their mistake when they reach the
opposite coast.
Friday, April 15th.-Rode through the beautiful
Ravin de la Femme Sauvage, so called, as saith tradi-
tion, from its having been long the abode of a young
* See Frontispiece.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
271
hermit. Deceived in her first love, she came here to
hide herself, and her sorrows, from the world. Her
retreat having been discovered, and a good road made
through the valley, she mysteriously disappeared, and
was heard of no more. A café bearing her name, is
still shown. The largest banana gardens we have yet
seen, are at the bottom of this ravine, the green of their
enormous leaves contrasting well with the dark hue
of the orange-trees. Some of these latter were covered
with vines, and olive, and fig-trees frequently did duty
as supports for these valuable creepers. Jujube trees
were in superabundance, and from amidst the produc-
tive gardens we saw beneath us in the dell, rose some
towering specimens of the cypress. The wild rugged
cuttings of the pass, form however its chief beauty, and
this we should probably have better appreciated, had we
visited the spot before, instead of after, we had seen the
Gorge of the Chiffa. I really thought I should have
had a sunstroke to-day, the sun was so intensely powerful
in the ravine. Next, up to the Kouba, from whence the
finest view of Algiers, is unquestionably to be had. It
looks like the blocks, and scoopings, in a white marble
quarry, and the dazzling blue of the sky above, and the
sea bencath, formed a picture I cannot describe. We
asked, and obtained permission, to ride all round the
Kouba, by which I mean the church, to see the wide-
spread panorama.
The Kouba stands on an eastern height of the Sahel,
one of the furthest from Algiers. The eminence itself
is crowned with this church, whose immense cupola is
seen from every side, and is flanked by two very ugly
rows of buildings, called the Grand Séminaire, a sort
of training establishment for young Roman Catholic
priests. Gardens, and vineyards, surround the whole,
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and on descending the hill, and quitting the grounds,
we came upon a village of some 1,200 inhabitants,
bearing the same name, and standing on the site of
a former camp. Here it was that the first "bataillons
d'Afrique" were formed, out of the companies of mili-
tary offenders, who had been in a manner transported
hither for "discipline," and who then bore the desig-
nation of “zephyrs." From these unpromising materials,
arose the soldiers of whom France is now so proud, under
the title of Zouaves. They say it was the " eccentric
conduct of the soldiers, under discipline, which gained
them the sobriquet of "zephyr." We frequently pass
whole regiments of Zouaves, who have the most respect-
able-looking appearance.
""
We next visited Birkadem, where the camp now
stands; and in the process of some détours, available
only as bridle roads, we came upon several orchards,
or groves—I know not which to call them very
strange to our English eyes. Whole fields were regu-
larly planted with olive-trees, looking as if they were
standing for their picture to some land-surveyor, who
wanted to show on his ground-plan, where trees grew
on the estate. Then would follow cork-trees, in rows
almost as correct, and some of the bark we knocked off
as a trophy. Next a fig orchard would fill up some
rich dell, though these latter are now also exhibiting
their fruits in every hedgerow the branches being
literally borne down under their weight.
In returning to El-Biar, we rode through lanes, and
bye-roads, which give a far better idea of the fertility
of the country, than one generally gets from the beaten
tracks. The views much resembled those to be found
north of London; we could fancy ourselves near
Hampstead, or Highgate, and altogether the aspect of
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
273
the country looked more like dear old England, than
anything we had seen before. The nightingales sere-
naded us most of the way, and made us think there
was some sense in the remark of an Irish boy to a friend
of ours, who laboured to convince him that these sweet
vocalists sang also at night: "Now, don't try to kim
over me in that way. Jist as if the nightingales hadn't
enough to do to sing by day, but they must keep awake
to sing to ye by night too."
Monday, April 18th.-Another lachrymose day. The
Algerines hardly know how to be thankful enough for
this continued rain, which is now so warm and mild, that
the crops seem to spring up, under its genial influence,
by inches daily.
I remember, as a child, wasting a great deal of sym-
pathy on the vestal virgins of old, in view of the terrible
punishment, which the neglect, and consequent extinction,
of their fires, would entail. But I have now some idea
that they probably employed charbon, and, if so, my
sympathy was really uncalled for. This view of the
subject arises from the discovery, that, for the space of
three months last past, the fire has never been out in our
kitchen. The cook makes it up at night, ready for the
morning, and then heaps over it a covering of charcoal dust,
which answers the twofold purpose of keeping it alive,
and preventing it from consuming. Who knows but that
the vestal virgins of old may have been equally 'cute?
Tuesday, April 19th.-It seems that our late expe-
dition was well timed, and that, in the present state of
things, it would be very questionable whether it would
be safe to take the same route. The flying rumours are
unpleasant, though I suppose the threats of the Arabs,
about "driving the French into the sea," are as likely of
fulfilment, as those of the Sepoys regarding the English in
T
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A WINTER IN ALGERIA,
India. The émeute is certainly assuming a somewhat
serious aspect, five officers having been killed at Bogàre,
and many more in other places. General Yussuf, who
has the supreme command in this province, starts to-night
for Blidah, to be in readiness for whichever point seems
most to require his attention.
The history of General Yussuf is a most romantic one.
At the head of the Spahis, or irregular cavalry, he has
achieved almost fabulous adventures in Algeria, one of the
most dashing of which was the capture of Bona, in 1833.
Although he came to these shores as a jannissary from
Tunis, he is said to be a Christian, and an Italian by birth;
but, having been kidnapped, and captured by pirates in
his early youth, he was taken to Tunis, and presented to
the Bey. The latter was so struck by his extreme beauty,
that he named him one of his pages. In this situation, he
managed to steal the heart of the Bey's daughter. The
affair was discovered by a slave, who was instantly killed,
his body cut up, and hidden by Yussuf, to prevent detec-
tion. But, fearing lest his misdeeds should receive their
due reward, the handsome page soon fled the shores of
Carthage, by a vessel bound for Algiers, where he was
received with open arms by the French. His good looks,
and dashing chivalry, won him speedy renown, and on
his visits to Paris, there has been invariably a "Yussuf
fever." General Yussuf is now only second in colonial
importance to the Governor-General.
Thursday, April 21st.-Tidings of the mutiny grow
daily more alarming. Several visitors to-day, all con-
firming the reports with more or less authority. The
French versions of its origin, remind one very much of the
answers given to all anxious inquirers, by porters and
guards, when a delay, or stoppage on the railroad, has
awakened the fears of the travellers. It is simply a little
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275
annual outburst, such as always takes place after Rama-
dân. Two tribes have been quarrelling amongst them-
selves, and the French naturally side with their friends,
and allies. Cruelty, or even severity, on the part of a
French officer? Oh dear no! nothing of the kind; but
the Arabs must always be at some mischief. It is a mere
nothing; the very sight of French troops is quite enough
to quell any disturbance.
The more enlightened, however, admit that matters are
looking very serious. A member de la Cour Supérieure,
twenty-five years resident here, and no alarmist, has en-
treated us to give up a picnic party, planned for going
next week to Sidi-Ferruch, saying emphatically, “It is
not safe." Even in riding to Staouéli, whither we are
going to-morrow, as far as the celebrated Trappist Convent,
one of our party intends to go armed with a revolver!
We learnt to-day, from very high authority, somewhat
of the immediate cause of the outbreak. Algeria, it will
of course be remembered, is divided into three provinces
-Algiers, Oran, and Constantine. General Yussuf has
supreme command in the province of Algiers, General des
Vaulx in that of Constantine, and General Deligny in that
of Oran.
Whenever these outbursts occur, there has always been
a latent disposition to rebellion, needing only a match to
fire the train. It seems that this spark had been struck
by the wanton cruelty of an officer, in command at Tiharet,
whose life has already paid the penalry of his folly. This
officer, Colonel Beauprêtre by name, who was described
by my informant as the greatest wretch unhung, was
formerly stationed somewhere in the province of Algiers,
with a small detachment, where he sought, by extra-
ordinary severity, to make amends for the insufficiency of
his force in case of any émeute. On the slightest pretext,
T 2
276
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he doomed the Arabs in his military jurisdiction to
death; and such was the terror, and discontent, induced
by his severity, that General Yussuf reported him, and
requested that he might be removed, or deposed, refusing
to be answerable for the peace of the Province, if
Colonel Beauprêtre were retained. The authorities took
the matter under their serious consideration, and re-
moved him to Tiharet in Oran, where he was further
from public observation. He there pursued the same
conduct which had previously gained him such unen-
viable notoriety, and not long since, on some trifling
grounds, ordered the Mufti of Tiharet to be bastinadoed.
This sentence, so degrading to one of their priests,
reached the ears of Si-Solyman, a chief closely related
to the Emperor of Morocco, and himself reigning over
the Oulad-Sidi-Cheikh tribe, numbering 50,000 Arabs.
He hastened to the Bureau Arabe, had an interview
with Colonel Beauprêtre, and implored the pardon of the
Mufti. He even threw himself at the feet of the officer;
but all to no purpose. Some graceless hand, whether
that of Colonel Beauprêtre, or of one of his subordinates,
who took their cue from their commander, is uncertain,
but some hand was raised so rudely to push Si-Solyman
out of the bureau, that he fell to the ground; and on
rising, justly incensed at the treatment he had received,
he tore off all the French decorations, which were affixed
to his burnouse, and threw them at Colonel B.'s feet, re-
nouncing henceforth all allegiance to the Power with
which he had been wont to be friendly. The tribe which
owned his sway, rose as one man. Colonel Beauprêtre
had under his command but 100 French, 100 Spahis,
and 1,200 native soldiers, wherewith to meet an angry
tribe of 50,000 strong. The native soldiers turned
against him, and he and his men were cut to pieces. In
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277
the mêlée, the chief himself was slain, and the tribe
have made off, some towards the Desert, some to Morocco,
but scattering everywhere the seeds of rebellion.
It is but one year since the father of Sidi Solyman
landed at Algiers on his return from a pilgrimage to
Mecca. He returned thither in perfect health, but whether
the air of his native country suddenly disagreed with
him, or not, certain it is that this powerful chief suc-
cumbed to an illness which carried him off in a few
days, and which in the eyes of the Moors was invested
with mystery. His eldest son succeeded to his honours,
but about six months ago, while on a visit to Oran, he
likewise was suddenly taken ill, and died. Si Solyman
is now numbered among the slain, or is believed to be
killed, though the latest accounts say that his body has
not been found. Another brother, Si Mahommed, has
gone off with the tribe, either south, or to Morocco;
and the end of this terrible uprising, no one pretends to
foresee. Some say it will surge up to the gates of
Algiers, and those who have bought property here, seem,
generally speaking, to wish they were well out of the
country.
The pretext upon which the French conquest was
undertaken, as every one knows, was the rash blow
dealt by the Dey to the French Consul in April, 1827.
Strange if a blow dealt by a French officer, to a Moorish
Prince in April, 1864, should be the pretext for a revolt
so extensive as to make the French dynasty tremble in
Algeria! The officer in command telegraphed to Algiers
for 12,000 men. Recently, however, so many soldiers
have been despatched from here to Mexico, and several
regiments also ordered home, that the reply was, only
2,000 could be spared. It is stated that the officer
desired thereupon to throw up his command. Algiers
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cannot be left unprotected, but every soldier is sent off
who can with safety be spared. To-day, the telegraphic
wires, which extended to Laghout, as they do to every
part of the French territory, have been cut.
Troubles never come singly, and the French here have
another train of disagreeable reflections, in the reception.
accorded by England to Garibaldi. "If it had been
""
simply by the lower orders I could have understood it,"
said a Conseiller de la Cour Impériale to us the other
day; "but as it is, it is simply inexplicable." To-day
we were asked its meaning by an old French officer, who
would by no means be satisfied with the assurance that
there was nothing political in the matter; that as
a great hero, in the truest sense of the word, England
had risen up as one man to receive him. "A great man!
a great man! Oh, comme vous vous trompez! But
I have seen him, I have seen him myself," he repeated
again and again, as though that were an unanswerable
argument. "Garibaldi may be a very brave man, but
there are plenty of finer fellows amongst our Zouaves.
Oh, no, you are quite mistaken. It is not for that—
there is some sous-entendu in it.”
"We were not speaking of him only as a brave man,
but as a truly great man, who deserves, though he does
not court, all the honour his fellow-men can bestow.
The conqueror of a kingdom, he has refused all honour
and dignity for himself, and in his straightforward
integrity, simplicity of purpose, and pure disinterested
devotion to his country, he more closely resembles the
noble type of the ancient Romans, than anything we have
seen in our days. It is the glory of England that she
is able to appreciate such a character, and if she had
received Garibaldi coldly, the very stones would have
cried out."
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279
"Oh, that is all very fine! I
like you for standing
up for your country," said my old friend, patting me
paternally on the shoulder, "but I have seen him
myself! He is thought nothing of in France. No,
there is something in it. I cannot make out what it
means,” he added very musingly. "Lord Palmerston
to receive him! There is some sous-entendu !"
230
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CHAPTER XXV.
MONASTERY OF LA TRAPPE.
Flying Rumours regarding the Mutiny--Freedom of the Press-Arrival of
Troops-Ride to Staouéli-Convent of La Trappe--Description of the
Monastery-Hospitable Reception-Conversation with the Monks-Groups
of Palm-Trees-Inscriptions-Visit of a Lady, wife of the Governor-
General, by permission of the Pope-Telegram from Tunis-Outbreak
there.
Friday, April 22d.-The news brought us to-day, by
an officer of the Chasseurs D'Afrique, is, that the mutiny
is entirely at an end; that all the refractory chiefs are
in prison; that all the rebels have sent in their sub-
mission; and, in fact, that the country is quieter than
before the outbreak. I only hope it may be so, but for
the reason which yesterday suggested itself, one places
no great dependance on French versions. The press
has been as usual gagged, the Governor-General having
issued orders to the papers, to publish no statements on
the subject but such as they find in the Moniteur, or
receive from himself. Perhaps, after all, on my own
showing, there is wisdom in this. Nevertheless, could
they have a press at once free, and enlightened, it would
set the minds of visitors, residents, and colonists much
more at rest. The largest detachment of troops we have
yet seen sent into the interior, passed along the road
near our house to-day, consisting of Spahis, just arrived
from France, Zouaves, and Turcos, making their usual
noisy demonstrations.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
281
In consequence of the re-assuring tidings of this
morning, our friend contented himself with a sort of
life-preserver, instead of a revolver, and we have even
agreed to venture to Sidi-Ferruch a few days hence.
Our late visit to the interior had proved so pleasant, that
we agreed before parting, to make as many excursions
together as time and opportunity would permit. One
of these was to be to the monks of La Trappe, within an
easy ride, and this being a lovely day we started on
our pilgrimage thither. My fear of Arab hired horses
is almost gone, two of those I have had from Lambert,
in the Rue-Bab-Azzoun, having proved such good ones.
The half-stupid looks which Arab steeds usually put on
before starting, vanish the instant they are put to their
full speed, when it is with no small trouble they are
held in. The views to-day on every side, were as usual
beautiful, and before reaching Cheragas, one gets quite
a panorama, extending from Sidi Ferruch to the Djebel-
Chenoua; this sweep being dotted over by several
pretty little villages-Bou-Ismaïl, Castiglione, Kbour-er-
Roumia, and others. Some little bridges, if such by
courtesy they must be called, which we passed over,
were so tastefully laid out that we could not but notice
them, the young aloes, planted at equi-distances, pre-
senting the appearance of a small pinery.
The village of Cheragas stands at the entrance of the
plain of Staouéli, on the site formerly occupied by the
tribe of the Cheragas, who have now disappeared before
the invaders. The present inhabitants bear a good
character for industry; and here, amongst other manu-
factures, they make quantities of the crin vegetal, or
vegetable horsehair, from the tissues of the Fan Palm.
It is here that the territory, consisting of about 2,050
acres, allotted to the Trappists, commences.
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"Les Dames n'entrent pas in," met our gaze on
approaching the building, affixed most needlessly, as it
seemed to us ladies, on the farmyard entrance. We
might at least have inspected their live stock! How-
ever, a lay brother, clad in a garb so earth-coloured,
that at a distance it is very difficult to recognise the
living mortal, pointed to a room à côté in which he
said Mrs. E. and I might rest, while the gentlemen
were looking over the building. Soon a hospitable frère,
in a white woollen garment reaching down to the feet,
girdled with a leathern belt, and having the universal
hood hanging down the back, came to us, with the offer
of refreshment, which, after a ride in the broiling sun,
we were not indisposed to accept. So the visit of
inspection was postponed, until we had all done justice
to monastic fare. Excellent brown bread, delicious
butter, honey, and really good cheese, formed the staple
of our repast; bananas, and medlars, such I never saw
elsewhere, were the dessert. Very good vin rouge until
our thirst was satisfied, when the kind-looking monk
in attendance produced a bottle of what he simply called
vin blanc, but which was admitted by all to be super-
excellent. The medlars, in colour and size, resembled
small apricots, and had three or four stones in the centre,
about the size of small hazel nuts.
Mrs. E. and I were now left to our own reflections,
while the same monk conducted G. and Mr. H. first to
the chapel, a very plain, barn-like affair, which occupied
all one wing of the building, and then to the dormitories.
Each of these was a kind of long narrow passage, the
beds placed down the centre of the room dos à dos, and
divided into separate cells by wooden partitions. The
entrance to cach cell consisted of a white curtain,
which serves as a door by night, and is drawn up by day,
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283
to admit a free current of air. A small iron bedstead,
was about the extent of the furniture allotted to each of
the brothers. They were also shewn the distillery, from
which issues the Essence of Geranium, which the French
prize so highly, but which we all thought too strong, and
sickly. The library next engaged their attentions, but
there no monk was allowed to utter a word. This
restriction, which forms the leading feature of the Trap-
pist Convents, does not as a rule extend to the monks
conducting visitors over the Abbey, pro tem. They are
permitted to converse freely with them, except in certain
parts of the building, and well inclined our monk ap-
peared, to enter for the moment into the affairs of the
outer world. He was most anxious to know how the
recent émeute had begun, and what was the present aspect
of affairs, and questioned us all breakfast time on the
subject.
Christians cannot but feel a deep interest in the spiritual
state of the inmates of a monastery. Their voluntary
imprisonment tells, more fully than words, their felt need
of pardon and peace; but how to show that interest, is
the difficulty. There was little hope that tracts would be
accepted. They seemed, too, somewhat out of keeping in
a Romish Convent; however, G. happened to have two,
which were simply taken from Scripture, one being the
prayers found in Bible language, the other the promises
of God, which he offered to the monk, who willingly
accepted them. Upon their rejoining us, the frère con-
cierge, who also accompanied them, took occasion to dis-
play his small wares, chiefly consisting of chaplets,
rosaries, and medals. While these were being inspected,
I saw our monk seat himself down in a corner, and com-
mence reading his tracts. Hoping for a little conversa-
tion, I walked towards him, when he looked up, and
284
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asked the strangely-sounding question, "Do you tutoyez
Dieu ?"
66
Yes, always; in our language tu sounds less familiar,
and more reverential, than vous."
"Do you ever use tu in common conversation?"
<<
Rarely; we say vous in speaking to one another, and
tu in addressing God."
Thinking it was my turn to question him, I asked,
"Do you read the Word of God in French?"
"Oh yes, in French, and Latin."
"But in French ?"
"Yes, in French."
"I had a conversation the other day with a priest at
the Bishop's palace, and he admitted that he never read
it in his own language."
Oh well, mine is all drawn from the Bible, and it's
Latin and French interleaved. I have French on one
page, and Latin on another, so as to see," he added smiling,
"if it is a correct translation."
"But the Latin is not the original."
"C
No, but it is translated from the Septuagint."
"I like better to read God's Word in my own language,
and to have the whole of it, because Jesus said, 'Search
the Scriptures, &c. they are they which testify of
Me.'"
"You call our Lord Jesus.' Now I remark that all
the English who come here always say 'Christ.""
"I scarcely understand you."
"The English never seem to say 'Jesus,' or 'Jesus
Christ,' but only speak of Him as 'Christ.' Why is that?"
This, like many other questions, was casier to ask
than to answer satisfactorily; but I thought it shewed
how often our words may be noticed and pondered, when
least we expect it. He continued,
A WINTER IN ALGERIA,
285
"You believe in our Lord Jesus Christ?"
Oh yes, indeed we do, and love Him too."
"And in the Holy Virgin?"
"We honour her as a blessed and holy woman, honoured
of God, but we do not worship her as divine."
"Yet she was the mother of God."
"Not the mother of God, but of the Lord Jesus in
His human nature. He was perfect God, as well as
perfect man."
"You cannot separate the two natures. It would be
absurd to say of a mother, she is the mother of her
child's body, but not of his soul,' when the two form but
one person.
""
"No such illustration can be analogous, because our
Lord existed as God from before the foundation of the
world; a child has no prior existence."
"I am not sure of that. Some of the Fathers have
held that every child has been pre-existent ;" and away
into a labyrinth of Fathers the good monk was wandering,
when G. brought a box made of the shell of a tortoise,
with which the neighbourhood abounds, to ask if I would
like it.
"Why do you not rather buy one of those crucifixes;
those of a white ivory figure on an ebony cross?"
"Because we are not to make to ourselves any graven
image. They are very pretty, but lead to idolatry."
66
Well, that is strange! A great many English who
have been here, have bought them, and yet they were
Protestants; but they said if they placed a crucifix before
them, it helped them to say their prayers.
""
"Then, although they had the name, they were not
really Protestants. True Christians have Christ in their
hearts, the hope of glory, and should need no such
external aids to devotion."
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The monk tried to prove from his own experience that
it was a great assistance, and then said, laughingly, “I
wonder if you ever pray for our conversion as we pray
for yours?"
"I will pray for you, individually, mon frère, that you
may be saved by faith in Christ Jesus."
"And by good works," added the monk.
66
By faith, which will prove itself by your works.'
And so our little entretiens ended, and we parted with
mutual expressions of hope that we might yet again meet
in His presence, who is alone the way, the truth, and
the life.
Mrs. E. and I were most anxious to see the celebrated
group of palm-trees in the centre of the court; and as one
door of the porter's lodge, in which we were resting, led
into the court, a peep would have been a very easy matter;
but this was not allowed. The monk, however, directed
us to go to the entrance of the gateway, and told the
concierge to open that door, through which, without
violating the sanctity of their premises by placing a foot
inside, we had a full view of the magnificent palms, and
a squint at some others not far distant. Poor Trappists!
As we had ridden up, we had met one of their number,
who forthwith prostrated himself behind a crucifix, and
covered his face with his hood, that he might not look at
Mrs. E. and myself. Another, a little further on, took
refuge behind a little sapling of a tree. And these mor-
tifications, and self-imposed pains and restrictions, are all
undertaken with the vain hope of meriting heaven! As
well might the builders of Babel of old, expect to make
their tower soar up into the presence of God, as these
zealous, but deluded men, thus attempt to weave their
own fig-leaf righteousness. To condemn to perpetual
silence the best member which God has given, and which
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287
should be employed in speaking His praise from day to
day, is surely to misuse His gifts, and to dishonour Him-
self. Some of the mottoes which adorned the entrance
were very good. I wish the custom of using mottoes, and
texts, as embellishments, was more common in England.
One ran thus:-
"CELUI QUI N'A PAS LE TEMPS DE PENSER Aa son Salut,
AURA L'ÉTERNITÉ POUR S'EN REPENTIR.
No Christian edifice can boast great antiquity as such,
in Algeria. The chief interest attached to this abbey is,
that it stands on the very spot on which the battle was
fought, which opened the way to French dominion over
the country. On landing at Sidi Ferruch, about six
miles distant from hence, the French saw the Algerian
army, drawn up in battle array, on this plain, which had
been from time immemorial a favourite spot with Arab
shepherds for feeding their flocks. Thirteen years later,
the government of Louis Philippe ceded this site to the
Trappists, to found an agricultural establishment. In
August, 1843, a body of this order arrived, and esta-
blished themselves in tents under the very palms we had
been so anxious to see, and under whose shade the more
splendid tents of Ibrahim Pasha had previously been
placed. A hundred and fifty military prisoners were sent
to the assistance of the monks, the offerings of the pious
poured in from all quarters, and gradually from what had
been the battle-field, arose the present abbey. Beautiful
gardens, and orangeries, so we were told, were within its
encircling walls; but these, alas! we ladies were not per-
mitted to visit. One lady only has ever crossed the
threshold of the abbey, the wife of the Governor-General,
by special permission of the Pope; but hers could not
have been a prolonged visit; she was not allowed to sit
288
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down, for so ran the papal mandate, as our guide solemnly
assured us ! I asked if he meant the Duchess of Malakoff,
wife of the present Governor. The monk thought it was,
but did not seem quite sure.
Our visit concluded, we remounted our horses, and
galloped homewards, not however, without bearing away
with us grateful reminiscences of the attention received,
and feelings fraught with painful interest towards the
self-devoted monks of Staouéli.
Monday, April 26th.-Further cause of alarm to-day
in Algiers, by reason of the tidings from Tunis. A tele-
gram this morning gives information of a very un-
pleasant state of things there. The mutiny in Algeria
seems to have struck a key-note, which vibrates through-
out the Arab body politic. Rumour says, that the French
and English consuls, at Tunis, have gone on board their
ships, and that their countrymen residing there, are in an
awkward predicament.
To-night rain is falling in torrents, and even at the
distance we are inland, we can distinctly hear the roar
of the waves as they lash the beach. This augurs ill for
our to-morrow's plans; but by no one day in this
beautiful climate, can one possibly judge of the next
unfavourably.
!
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289
1
CHAPTER XXVI.
EXCURSION TO COLÉA H.
Excursion to Coléah-Spanish Woodcutters and Charcoal-Burners-the River
Mazafran-Jardin des Zouaves-A Gift to General Lamoricière-Picnic in
the Garden-Arab Attendant-Tombeau de la Reine Chrétienne--Arab
Legend-Silkworm Factory-A Monkey-Description of Coléah-Story of
Sidi Embarek-Coléah a Second Mecca-Its History-An Arab Boys'
School- Remarks.
Wednesday, April 27th. An excursion to Coléah
having been arranged for to-day, the clouds were anxiously
watched, from 5 o'clock this morning; and on the party,
together with the carriage, arriving, we agreed to start,
in spite of sundry unpleasant-looking atmospheric symp-
toms. We were barely off at 7 A.M. when down came
the rain; but on we drove, amidst intermittent exclama-
tions from one or other of the party, that Coléah was out
of the question, that it had set in for the day, and that turn
back we must. But a vote for braving it carried the day,
and by the time we reached Cheragas, the oft-repeated
prediction, that it would clear up, was really verified.
As to the route, there is little worthy of note. We
again passed the Trappist Convent, and left Sidi Ferruch
on the right, to be visited next week, and so on to the
Massafran, which we crossed on an American bridge,
302 feet long, and about 19 feet wide. As our road lay
along the coast, we crossed the river near its mouth, and
most singular was the effect which we saw at the spot,
and still more from the neighbouring heights, of the dark
brown, turbid stream, emptying itself into the deep blue
290
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sea. Long before we reached the place, we had seen it,
and tried to solve the enigma, ignorant of our near
approach to the river. The brown line of demarcation
was thrown out apparently a quarter of a mile from the
shore, proving the reluctance of the sea to amalgamate
with its tributary; until at length, all danger of contact
and defilement surmounted, the azure blue sea recovered
its serenity, and triumphantly asserted its supremacy.
The fort which guards the approach to Sidi Ferruch,
stood on the narrow promontory which jutted out into
the sea, and formed a charming background to the picture.
And from this point the chief beauties of the road began.
The road wound up through rocky ground, covered with
the usual brushwood, and which had extended also to
the fertile plains, now removed to give room for the
cultivation of tobacco, and cotton. The wood-cutters, and
charcoal-burners, who daily supply Algiers with two great
necessaries of life, come from this vicinity; and here and
there we discovered their whereabouts, by the very cosy-
looking tents they had pitched amidst the underwood.
About ten o'clock Coléah was reached, a small town,
or rather a large village; and where they stow away the
2,700 inhabitants, which the latest historians of Algeria
assign to it, I am at a loss to conceive. After passing
between two forts, which looked formidable enough, but
are now only used as prisons, we drove into the place,
the observed of all observers. Whether such an arrival
was a rare event, or whatever the cause, the inhabitants
turned out in great force to greet our entrance, and
assisted most patiently at the debate which ensued, as to
whither we should first bend our steps. We had pro-
vided ourselves with eatables enough for a respectable
picnic, in case of going further than Coléah; but the
pangs of hunger were now assailing us, and the multitude
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
291
of counsellors in attendance, did not make us feel at all
sure of finding any place in the neighbourhood where
we could sit down quietly to discuss them. But amongst
the on-lookers was a gendarme, and, on applying to him,
he recommended the Jardin des Zouaves, and selected an
Arab from the crowd, as porter, and guide in one. De-
positing our wraps at the inn, we followed our leader into
the beautiful public gardens, laid out in the English style,
which are larger than those at Blidah, and decidedly the
best we have anywhere seen; and, despite a notice similar
to that at Kew Gardens, relative to baskets at the entrance,
we walked boldly on till the Arab came to a full stop
under a charming arbour, overshadowed by orange-trees,
which seemed built expressly for our need. He seized
our Arab pitcher, and, saying he would fill it, soon
returned with clear water, and then left us to déjeûner
in peace. Thankful enough we were for such a shelter
when, in a few minutes more, the rain descended in
torrents. But this was a clearing storm; and by the
time we had finished our repast, had had water thrown
over our hands by the Arab, and with all frugality
reserved enough for a late dinner, the sky was as clear,
and the ground as dry, as though no water had fallen.
An interesting little history, by the way, is attached
to this pretty garden. It formerly belonged to a native
chief of great influence, who became so attached to
General Lamoricière, that he bequeathed it to him as a
mark of esteem. The General-who has since won
honourable mention" in virtue of the loyalty to his
country, which the midnight seizure of December 24
ascribed to him-on leaving Algeria, presented it to the
officers of the regiment, stationed at Coléah for the time
being.
CC
In answer to our inquiries, as to what was to be seen,
U 2
292
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we were disappointed at finding that the Tombeau, which
we had wished to visit, would be another day's journey
distant.
The Rbour-er-Roumia, or "Tombeau de la Reine Chré-
tienne," is 20 kilometres beyond Coléah, and no carriage-
road conducts the traveller thither. Two routes may be
taken, both being mule paths. That by the Lake Hal-
loula, would be preferred by the sportsman, as snipes are
reported to abound there. Perhaps the snipes would
even rank before the tomb, since recent historical dis-
coveries have decided that neither Cava, nor any other
Chrétienne, or Chrétien was ever buried there. It is
said to have been the place of sepulture of a race of
Moorish kings. M. Judas says, it must originally have
been spelt Rbour Roumim, i.e. mausoleum of kings and
grandees; and that the im, has become corrupted into ia.
The only question which troubles the Arabs, is that
relating to the whereabouts of the treasure, which they
feel convinced must once have been lodged there. This
is always their firm belief with regard to any monument
which cannot give a satisfactory account of itself, and
they think it is some knowledge of the same, which
influences the frequent visits of Franks.
Of course they have an explanatory legend. An Arab,
Ben-Kassem by name, having been captured by the
Christians, was sold to a Spanish savant in the days of
Philip II. This worthy, grieved at seeing his captive
spend whole days in tears, proposed at length to give
him his liberty.
"I will restore thee to thy family, and to thy country,"
said the sage, "if thou wilt swear to perform what I ask
of thee. In nothing shall it interfere with thy religion."
"With that reservation, I swear," joyfully exclaimed
Ben-Kassem.
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293
"At once shalt thou embark," returned the sage.
"When thou rejoinest thy family, spend with them three
days. On the fourth, repair to the Tombeau de la
Chrétienne. Arrived there, thou shalt burn upon a
brazier, this paper that I give thee, turning the while thy
face towards the East. Whatever may happen, discover
no amazement, and return to thy tent. I ask no more,
in exchange for the freedom I now grant thee.
وو
Prostrating himself at his deliverer's feet, and kissing
the generous hand which freed him, the grateful Arab
swore to the fulfilment of his mission, and forthwith set.
sail for his native soil. Arrived at home, on the fourth
day he visited the Tomb. But scarcely had the paper
been consumed on the brazier, than, to the astonished
sight of Ben-Kassem, the Tomb slowly opened of its own
accord, to give free egress to a vast cloud of gold and
silver pieces, which rose high in the air, and then blew off
over the sea, in the direction of the Christian's land.
Speechless and paralysed with fear at what he beheld,
Ben-Kassem stood at first motionless, till it occurred to
him to try and stop the golden cloud, by throwing his
burnous over it as it departed. Thus he succeeded in
gaining a few, but only a few of the passing coins. When
he turned to the Tomb, lo! it had closed again, as though it
had never been disturbed. The charm had done its work!
Long time the Arab kept the secret, but it burnt
within him, and when he told it, it spread abroad, and
reached the ears of Salah-Raïs. So little did the infidel
Pacha respect the sanctity of the Christian's tomb, that
he forthwith sent workmen to demolish it, and bring him
its hidden treasures. But the blows of the hammer had
hardly resounded on the Tomb, when a female form was
seen on its summit (doubtless that of the Christian
Queen), extending her arms towards the lake for succour.
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"Help, oh! Halloula! help."
Scarcely had the cry been heard, when a cloud of
enormous mosquitoes was seen flying from the lake below,
which quickly, and effectually, dispersed the workmen.
Two hundred years later, another daring Pacha sent his
guns there, and tried to demolish it by cannon shot. His
artillery was vain. No mortal power could prevail
against it!
And with stories such as these, implicitly believed in,
the grave-looking Arabs amuse themselves by the hour,
while sitting cross-legged on the ground, imbibing their
tiny cups of Mocha, or smoking their pipes!
To a pretty little cemetery in the neighbourhood we
next bent our steps, and on the first tombstone we passed,
was inscribed, "Ici repose Marie Antoinette ." but it
was not the body of the unhappy Queen, which had found
a quiet resting-place on the shores of Africa; and as the
grass was too long, and the flowers too tall, to allow us
to walk in comfort, we turned in the opposite direction.
On inquiring our route at a cottage, the good woman,
who accepted some petits livres with much pleasure,
invited us upstairs, to see her silk-worm factory, and a
curious sight it was. On a wide high stand, with several
layers, or shelves, just such as might be employed by a
gardener to preserve apples, or seeds, these busy little
workmen were to be seen in thousands. The proprietress,
who seemed thoroughly au fait with silk-worm details,
attributed her success in rearing them to certain sanitary
regulations, which were not usually practised in the silk
districts. She said she fed them regularly, and plentifully,
three times a day, but never allowed them to eat between
meals; she also gave them plenty of fresh air. Several
of her friends expected the worms would die from star-
vation, and exposure; but she had found her method (to
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295
which must be supplemented a fact on which she laid
great stress, viz. that she always placed the mulberry-
leaves-" doucement "-upon them, never throwing them
down, and thereby wounding the tender little creatures
as too many did), to answer admirably. Last year, from
45 grammes of seed she had realized 68 kilogrammes, or
about 140 lbs. of silk, which she sold at 9 fr. the kilo.
For many consecutive nights, she told us, she had never
lain down till 5 A.M., but her care of her worms had been
well repaid. Every three or four days she shifted them,
and cleaned out their little domiciles, and in consequence
of all this cleanliness, there was not the slightest odour
perceptible.
Returning through the Jardin, we saw one of the
Zouaves these soldiers must always have some pet---
amusing himself with a monkey caught near the moun-
tains, and which was walking by his side on its hind legs,
about as tall as a boy of six or seven years old. These
animals are certainly too human-looking, and I greatly pre-
fer seeing them up in a tree. Mr. H. gave him a cayenne-
pepper lozenge, and his attempts to wash out the hot
element, and to swallow the sweet part, were ludicrous.
We were directed to an Arab marabout, and to the
tower of the mosque of Si-Embarck, now enclosed
within the precincts of the French Military Hospital,
from whence an extensive view was to be obtained.
Inside the court of the former, we came upon a small
group of palm-trees, two of which were still flourishing,
but the third, a tall, headless trunk, looked like the
shaft of a once noble pillar, still standing amidst ruins.
The tomb of Si-Embarek occupied the centre of the
building, and in the vestibule (though this, strictly speak-
ing, is of course an incorrect term) lay devotees, attracted
thither by the sanctity of the place. One, an old man,
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who had probably been carried there, for he looked too
infirm to move, excited our special interest. One could
not but feel he would soon be laid in the grave, and while
now probably trying to work out his salvation, there was
no one to tell him of the only Saviour, or point to the Lamb
of God which taketh away the sin of the world. None of
them could speak much French, but one young Arab
professed to be able to read Arabic, and Mr. H. left with
him a short tract, which he promised to study. The
ascent of the tower was next gained, but I advise no one
to attempt it who is not an expert climber. The view
hardly repays one.
Coléah seems formerly to have been considered as a
sort of Mecca for the Mussulmen of Algeria; and pious
pilgrimages by the Faithful, were made hither to visit
the mosque, and the tomb of Sidi-Embarek, a saint of
wondrous renown. He came, so says tradition, to Coléah
in the disguise of a labouring man, and as such was
engaged by one Ismaël; but his sanctity could not be
hid. When he went forth to cultivate his master's field,
he invariably fell asleep, but the oxen as invariably per-
formed their work, and better than if he had been looking
on. Ismaël being apprised of this novel proceeding, hid
himself behind a hedge, and then saw the miracle per-
formed with his own eyes. While hesitating what course
to pursue, he perceived partridges approaching the holy
man, to devour the vermin on his sacred person. Incre-
dulity could hold out no longer. Ismaël started from his
hiding-place, and, falling on his knees before the saint,
owned him as his master, and avowed himself a disciple
of Si-Embarek, who of course became rich and powerful,
and at his decease, was interred under the Kouba we
visited, and through the gratings of which, we were
permitted to peep.
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297
Coléah, or Koléah, dates from 1550, and was at first
peopled by Moors from Spain. Nothing very remarkable
seems to be known of its history previous to the French
conquest, except the terrible earthquake which overthrew
it in 1835, when Blidah was overwhelmed in the same
calamity. Ben-Allal-ben-Embarek, a descendant of the
saint, submitted, after a protracted struggle, to the French
invaders in 1838; but, trusting to the power of Abd-el-
Kader to expel them, he joined his standard as soon as
it was raised at Millianah, where he was appointed the
lieutenant of that powerful chief. He commanded, in
person, at one of Abd-el-Kader's last battles, when, finding
matters were becoming desperate, and the fortune of war
against him, he determined on selling his life dearly.
With his musket he shot down a brigadier of the Chas-
seurs d'Afrique; pointing his pistol at General Cassaignoles,
he killed his horse under him, and next slightly wounded
the Maréchal Siquot. Then, having no time to re-load,
he drew his yatagan, and was rushing on his foes, when
a pistol-shot from Brigadier Gérard terminated his career.
So desperate had been his resistance, that it was deemed
necessary to send his head to Algiers, to convince his co-
religionists of his death, after which his remains-head
and trunk re-united-were sent to Coléah, and interred
in the mosque of his great ancestor with military
honours.
All this is enough to make Coléah a place of some
importance, in the eyes of the Mussulman population.
But not partaking ourselves in the enthusiasm which
such relics were calculated to excite, we began to think
of retracing our steps, and making our halt for dinner
somewhere near the mouth of the Massafran. This river
takes its rise in the mountain overhanging Millianahı—
Mount Zachar--and runs a course of 108 miles before
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discharging itself into the sea, where, like an unwelcome
guest, it creates such a wonderful disturbance in the
placid Mediterranean. It was known to the ancients as
the river Savus; and, without laying claim to any special
antiquarian tendencies, we thought we should prefer
spreading our evening repast somewhere on its banks.
If we could have spared another day, we should have
visited the Roman remains of Cherchel, although the best
of them have been transferred to the Museum at Algiers.
It has a history of its own, prior indeed to the Roman
invasion, for it is known to stand on the site of the
Phoenician Colony of Jol. In later days it was enlarged,
and embellished by Juba II. the father of Ptolemy, under
the name of Cæsarca, and was made the capital of Mauri-
tania; and in 1348 this colony of many fortunes, fell into
the hands of the Moors. Bricks, columns, funeral urns,
and vases of the purest antique models, have been brought
from Cherchel, and may be inspected at the Museum.
With this we were obliged to rest content-the more so,
as the glories of Cherchel the present, by no means rival
those of Cæsarea the past.
Having ordered the carriage at three, for sooner than
this our driver declined to start, we found we had about
an hour on our hands; and hearing that the place boasted
of an Arab school, for boys only girls being of course
deemed incapable of education-we directed our steps
thither. Passing through the mosque, over Turkish car-
pets, a monotonous hum of young voices soon guided us
to a low room, about 15 feet by 12, where ten or a dozen
urchins, seated on the ground, were getting their lessons
by heart. The master lay on the floor at full length on a
small carpet, and neither he nor his pupils took the smallest
notice of our entrance, except it were to raise the pitch
of their voices, and to give us an occasional grin.
"Are
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299
you the master?" I asked, but the voice of the chorus
was so incessant, that I had to repeat it several times
before I could hear "Oui.”
"What is the highest number you ever have in the
school?"
"Fifteen."
Fifteen, and this was the only school in the place!
We looked around, and about us, and wondered what an
English school inspector would make out of it. The fur-
niture was conspicuous by its absence, and consisted of a
slate apiece, on which was very neatly written the lesson
they were learning; a praying carpet for the Domine, and
some bits of others which had probably been expelled
from the mosque, lay about on the brick floor. A pitcher
of water which was in constant requisition, making us
conclude that this monotonous recitation was as weari-
some to them as to us, and a rod by the master's side,
formed the whole inventory of the school effects, and I
should fear the paucity of the intellectual furniture, was
somewhat on a par.
I think Mr. Lowe's most inveterate opponents would
be inclined to admit that here, at least, the system of pay-
ment by results, might be introduced with advantage.
The only result of our visit, was to give us some idea of
the classical schools of yore, in the dress, and recumbent
position of the master, with his young disciples at his
feet. Some one said something about the school of
Athens, but 15 feet by 12 did not favour the illusion;
and as we could neither give, nor get, good in this esta-
blishment, we left, and wended our way to one of the old
ruined forts, where four mauvais sujets, we learnt, were at
this moment in durance vile. Four of these forts in by-
gone days, guarded the town at its different extremities,
but of these only two now remain. We looked across
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from thence, at Blidah, which we saw most clearly, but
the day was not favourable for more extended views. We
could not discern the Lake Halloula, where wild ducks,
and swans, it is said, are also found, as well as the snipes;
and where the Arabs have a profitable fishery for leeches.
Cultivation had evidently been very diligently, and as
we learnt very successfully, carried on around Coléah, but
the town clock now struck three, and anxious to be off,
we started to look after our Jehu, and with some trouble,
managed to get him, his three horses, and their jingling
bells, ready by 3.20.
Again a crowd assembled to see les Anglais off, and we
took our departure, agreeing that Coléah in itself was
scarcely worth a visit, though our excursion had been
a very pleasant one. Coléah stands about 400 feet
above the sea level. Sidi Ferruch on the one side, and
Cherchel on the other, are its two nearest sea-points. On
descending the hill where we had seen the union of the
fresh water, and the salt, in the morning, though the river
retained its brown colour, that of the sea was changed
to the loveliest green. Here we halted, and rambled
amongst the brush-wood covering the rocky eminence,
finally selecting a spot for dinner overlooking Torre
Chica. We offered our driver some of our provisions,
but he declined, saying he had la fièvre, and must not
cat till he reached Algiers. We were again en route in
time to see the sun set gloriously in the Mediterranean,
but darkness had come on, and the stars one by one had
come forth to keep their nightly vigils, ere the jingling
music of our horses' bells ceased, and we found ourselves
safe at El-Biar.
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301
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE ENGLISH IN ALGIERS.
Levées on the Roof of our House-Effect of Climate, and of Flowers on
Invalids-English Society in Algiers-The Consul-General-The Vice-
Consul-An Anglo-French Family-Style of Living-Grand Day at the
Cour Impériale-Installation of the First President Administration of
Justice in Algeria-No Trial by Jury--Visit to Sidi Bou-Kandoura, and his
Wife-Moorish Ornaments of Gold Coins-Dress of the Princess-Genuine
Otto of Rose-Coffee and Sweetmeats-Some account of the Turkish
Baths in Algiers.
Saturday, April 28th.-This will be probably our last
reception-day, for the very valid reason that every one is
now leaving, or has left. Our levées are partly held on the
upper terrace on the roof, looking down on our flower-
garden; and, even under the shelter of umbrellas, it is
getting somewhat too hot for this, tempting as is the
view, to which we must so soon bid a final adieu.
Talking of flowers, and of people who have come hither
to try the effect of this climate, reminds me of a curious
fact I lately heard, from a clever, and very successful
physician; and which, it would seem, is highly important
for consumptive patients to learn. He was alluding to
other, and less perceptible causes; and told us that in
inflammation of the lungs, or more decided consumption,
the perfume of violets, should be studiously avoided.
Often in such cases, when he had prescribed a medicine
he knew to be a specific, he had found, to his surprise,
and chagrin, the symptoms considerably aggravated on
the morrow. On close investigation, a modest bouquet of
violets, had been the unsuspected irritant. He also gave
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instances to prove the injurious action of hyacinths in a
room, where any tendency existed to diphtheria, bron-
chitis, or other throat affection. How often mischief
lurks where least expected!
I see, on reviewing my Journal, that I have seldom, or
ever, mentioned by name, any of the friends, or acquaint-
ances we have made here; probably under the idea that
future visitors to Algiers would not find the same faces.
This will not apply to the residents; and some of them
I must particularize. First, and foremost, in Anglo-
Algerian importance stands, of course, the Consul-General.
I have repeatedly alluded to Mr. Churchill, who has
uniformly endeavoured to render our stay here agreeable.
His only fault in the eyes of colonial rank, and fashion,
seems to be, that, unlike the natives in general, and the
pattern Kabyles in particular, he appears quite insensible
to the charms of matrimony. Mr. Elmore, the Vice-
Consul, who has been here for several years, has done his
best to rectify his chief's culpable insouciance on this
score, by leading an English lady to the hymeneal altar,
about a year-and-a-half ago. Even he, I believe, would
have been considered more correct, had he taken to him-
self a bride on this African coast (I don't mean a native).
Then there is an English doctor, who committed exactly
the same error. Algeria decidedly stands in proud pre-
eminence to India, in this respect. Several English ladies
who have come out, have married foreigners; but I have
not heard of a single instance, as far as I remember, in
which Englishmen have given the slightest countenance
to speculative emigration, on the part of their fair
countrywomen.
A few English, and Scotch, are stationary here; some
on the ground of health, others because they can, more
satisfactorily than in the old country, adjust any little
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303
unpleasant discrepancies between income and expenditure.
Provisions are far dearer than they were, especially in
the article of meat; but it would be difficult to commit
any great extravagance, when living on a flat, and in a
style altogether different from that of home requirements.
Some, indeed, place themselves en pension, and come
here every winter, as regularly as the swallows leave
England. They can be received at from five, to ten
francs, per diem, and thus their expenses can easily be
regulated, and a wide margin left, even on a small in-
come. One of these boarding-houses is in the Rue Bab-el-
Oued. The meat is not, however, at these places, always
of the best quality, and the close air of the streets would
be, to my mind, a serious objection.
Not much, I grieve to add, can be said as to the tone
of religion this winter amongst the English generally.
Christianity, which denies the divinity of Christ, and
Zulu rationalism, striving to sap, and mine, the very
foundations of revealed religion, have, alas! too much
abounded. There have been, however, exceptions, and
with these it has been very pleasant to meet.
Quite an English colony is formed by the engineers,
architects, work-people, and superintendents of the Peto
Company; employed at first on the railway, now on the
boulevard, and likely to remain a few years longer. We
have met with the greatest kindness, and attention, from
an Anglo-French family, who have been resident here.
for many long years, and to whom a letter of introduction
would be always valuable for visitors. The very English
name of Brown, makes it hard to believe that French is
their native language, but such is the case, though both
tongues are much alike to them. Mr. Brown is a Con-
seiller de la Cour Impériale, to which a new First
President has been recently appointed, and this morning
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was fixed for the grand ceremony of his installation.
Mr. and Mrs. Brown gave a breakfast-party on the
occasion, to which we were invited.
We have made the acquaintance of a few French
families, but only called on those to whom we had been
introduced. Some near neighbours of ours, own an old
Moorish house, so romantically situated that we had often
longed to visit them, but forgetting Algerian customs,
thought it impossible to do so unless they called first.
To-day we met, and were introduced to them, when I
heard that they had long wished to cultivate our acquaint-
ance, and thought it somewhat strange that we had never
called on them! Of course regrets were interchanged,
and mutual promises made of rectifying the mistake. All
this was on entering the Cour. Seats in the gallery were
reserved for us, from which we could see and hear all the
proceedings.
The Governor-General, Marshal Pelissier, presided on
the occasion, arriving at 1 o'clock, and was received by
a number of scarlet-robed, and decoration-bedizened
gentlemen. For this city of Algiers alone there are
no fewer than fourteen Conseillers à la Cour Impériale,
an office which corresponds with that of a stipendiary
magistrate in London. Their pay is miserably small
-about 6,000 francs per annum; and if the sum total
were divided amongst half a dozen, instead of the pre-
sent number of officials, the probability is that greater
efficiency would be attained, and with a more adequate
remuneration for their labours. But other objects have
to be kept in view, to which attention could not fail to
be directed, in the speeches which ensued on the arrival
of the First President, after all the bowings, and formalities
on passing the Vice Imperial chair, had been observed.
Each speaker vied with his predecessor, in tuning his

THE
SUMMER RESIDENCE OF THE GOVERNOR GENERAL, AT MUSTAPHA SET
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305
harangue to the praise, honour, and glory, of the French
Emperor. Algiers was what he had made it. France
in general, and the colony in particular, owed its very
existence to Napoleon; and the new First President, who
had, of course, to return thanks on his installation, quite
melted into tenderness at the reflection, that so great an
Emperor should have deigned to single out so insig-
nificant an individual as himself, in that far-distant part
of his magnificent empire. Altogether, it was a wonderful
exhibition; and if all is gold that glitters, it would seem
to cast our English loyalty into the shade. But, usually,
deep waters run smoothest.
The administration of justice in Algeria, is much the
same as in France, although in certain cases the proceed-
ings are abridged, in order to facilitate the prompt
execution of business. The only important difference
consists in the absence of trial by jury in criminal cases,
the accused being judged by the Court. Once a quarter,
three Conseillers, on one of whom devolves the office of
President, are deputed to hold the Assizes in the Provinces,
the Court in each place being completed by the addition
of two magistrates of the local tribunal.
Friday, April 29th.-Went with Madame B. to call on
a Moorish lady, wife of Sidi Bou-Kandoura, and sister
of Prince Mustapha. Our visit being by appointment,
the door was opened by Sidi Bou-Kandoura himself,
who received and welcomed us most cordially. The
contrast between the interior, and exterior, of these
Moorish dwellings, has long ceased to look strange, yet
it is curious nevertheless. One has to penetrate through
a labyrinth of close, narrow streets, jostled every moment
by dirty Arabs, vociferating at their long file of patient,
heavily-laden donkeys; and then to pause before a low
brown door, surmounted by a crescent, and embedded in
X
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means
a blank, meaningless-looking white wall, until by some
one has conveyed to the denizens within, that
a visitor is waiting to be admitted. Bells are innovations
which even the European occupants of Moorish houses,
rarely think it necessary to adopt. On visiting even at
some of the best campagnes, the chief hope lies in our
approach being seen by the servants, otherwise our
knuckles have to act for bell and knocker.
But here we were, inside, and standing in the quad-
rangular court, which constitutes the centre of every house,
with the Minton tiles of Algeria on all sides, and galleries
running round it on every story. At the top of the
stairs, a pretty little girl of five years old, Sidi Bou-
Kandoura's daughter by a former wife, stood waiting to
greet us by shaking hands, and wishing us bon jour.
She wore a blue velvet cap studded with sequins, the
former gold coins of the realm. The wealthy Moors, as
other use for them has ceased, have had them manu-
factured into bracelets, armlets, brooches, and ornaments
of every kind. Those now sold in the Moorish bazaars,
are, with few exceptions, imitations. I have bought
many of them. Their only value, of course, consists in
their resemblance to the Moorish jewelry of the past.
The little girl submitted her cap with great grace for
inspection, and soon became very friendly, and commu-
nicative. We were conducted to the drawing-room to
rest on divans, play with the child, and talk with Sidi
Bou-Kandoura, until a curtain was lifted on the opposite
side of the gallery, and his wife made her appearance.
In nothing is the effect of their not mixing with the
entire world so apparent, as in the dress of the Moorish
women. Their attire looks appropriate only to the stage.
In the present instance, some yards of scarlet satins were
folded around the lady's person, so arranged in front as to
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307
form a sort of very low body carrée, the figure being
draped in clear net. The waist was confined by a girdle
of silver and bluc, and another fold of the red satin
formed the petticoat. The ample drawers were of blue
and white striped gauze, spangled with silver-the buff-
coloured boots, were surmounted with yellow slippers.
The head-dress was equally peculiar. The princess, we
were told, was passionately fond of flowers, and a long
chain of orange blossom, every here and there interspersed
with a bouquet of the same flowers more fully opened, or
a bunch of roses, was twisted round her dark glossy
tresses. She was accompanied by a friend, who took her
seat on a low cushion, but French innovations had crept
into the house, and the princess seated herself on a chair.
A younger child, playmate to the little girl of the family,
came in likewise, and both the children were established
on a cushion, and sat still, in evident awe, throughout our
conversation.
Coffee was served on a silver tray, laid on one of the
high stools inlaid with mother-of-pearl, brought in for the
occasion, which always in Moorish houses do duty for a
table. People in England rave about Mocha coffee, but
I think no English palate can like it, when served in the
Turkish, or Moorish fashion. Our hostess, by the way, was
a Turkish princess, and the coffee à la mode Turque.
It is very strong, and very thick, being pounded, instead
of ground, and served without milk. The French when
taking it, allow the grounds to settle, when the liquid is
excellent, but all the Moors and Arabs stir it up, and
drink it off. Preserves were also on the tray, and a tea-
spoonful of Cédra conserve was handed to each of us.
Sidi Bou-Kandoura is a very enlightened man. He said
he had been desirous of taking his wife to see the recent
ceremony of installing the first president, but people
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did stare so much at a veiled lady, that he had been
afraid. He seemed also well inclined to travel, said he
had been to Paris, and only wished he could see London.
I advised him to put this idea into force, and begged him
to visit us on the occasion. He replied that this was not
the first invitation of the kind he had had, a previous one
having been given him by her Majesty Queen Victoria!
Rather a formidable rival! He had, it seems, been in
Paris on the occasion of the Queen's visit, when the
Emperor presented him to her Majesty, whereupon she
conversed most affably with him. He promised, however,
to come up here and call, and even engaged after some
little pressing, to bring his wife with him. Nous verrons.
He showed us photographs of all the members of our own
Royal family, which had been sent him by a lady from
England.
Madame Bou-Kandoura was a great exception to her
sisterhood in her decided love of activity and employ-
ment. She left her husband from time to time to enter-
tain us, while she went about her work. A large supply
of orange blossoms lay in the corner of the room, from
which she told us, as she gathered them up, she was about
to distil orange flower-water, and the Sidi proudly
assured us, as he offered us some large flasks of her manu-
facture to smell, that none equal to hers, could be pur-
chased for money. He says that the genuine otto of rose
is now almost impossible to be procured, so largely is even
the best adulterated. The bains maures, or, as we call
them, Turkish baths, stood very high in Sidi Bou-Kan-
doura's esteem, and he was delighted to find that they
were well known in London, and that I could speak of
them from personal experience. He had recently been
suffering from a severe attack of illness, during which he
had been most tenderly nursed night and day by his
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309
wife, and had cured himself, contrary to his doctor's
advice, by taking these baths for himself. I told him.
that on one occasion an English doctor of high standing
had said to me, "If your husband tries those baths, or
baths of any kind, he is a dead man," and that the baths
having been nevertheless taken by him, had restored him
to health. We both agreed that baths and their efficacy,
were, as a rule, very little understood by medical men.
We had now stayed as long as our time would admit, so
after hearing how many centuries Sidi Bou-Kandoura's
family had been established in Algeria, and some parti-
culars of an ancestor whose Kouba is still to be seen in
the Jardin Marengo, we took our leave, pleased with a
peep at another world which we had had, and specially
glad to observe that between at least one Moor and his
wife, there appeared to exist as much of the entente
cordiale, and domestic happiness, as between most hus-
bands and wives in England.
I have not myself penetrated the mysteries of the
Moorish baths in Algiers, but my husband has, and the
following is the account he gives of them.
(6
TURKISH BATHS IN ALGIERS.
You ask me to give you some account of the
Turkish baths in Algiers. My experience has not
raised them in my estimation. They are not equal to
those in London. Their arrangements, and comforts, are
not to be compared with our own. However, as they
are venerable for their great antiquity, one ought to
speak of them with due respect. They answer all the
purposes required by the Moslems. If Europeans use
them, they must learn not to be too fastidious. I must
310
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confess I derived much benefit from their occasional use,
and one ought to speak well of the bridge which carried
one over.
66
Now, how can I give you any correct idea of the bath
itself? Imagine yourself turning out of one of the
principal streets-half Moorish, half French-and
plunging at once into the Moorish quarter, a narrow
ascending street, or passage, as we should call it in
England; too narrow for the use of anything but men
and donkeys. As you ascend a few paces, on your left
hand, you espy a small Moorish door-you enter, and
see a couple of Arabs sitting cross-legged on a bench,
enjoying the pleasures of watching the entrance of
all visitors. Further on to your left, two others of
venerable appearance, in their loose burnouse, and smoking
their pipes, or cigarets, will be similarly engaged, and be
ready to direct the stranger to find his way. They point
you to another door, away on your right, closed by a
curtain. This you enter, and you are at once introduced
into the large vestibule of the bath, which in England
we should call the robing, and the cooling room. On your
right, upon descending two or three steps, squats a
venerable personage, the receiver of fees; on your left
you are greeted by the guardian of any gold, or silver, or
other valuables, you may wish to place in safe keeping,
during the ceremony of the bath. He receives your
treasures in a small bag, which he carefully closes, and
deposits in a large chest by his side. This done, you
descend into the centre of the room, where you find a
crystal fountain always flowing, used by the Moors for
their divers ablutions. You are now requested to take
off your boots, and a pair of sandals are provided for
you. Then you mount three or four marble steps, and
find yourself on an elevated platform which occupies
·
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311.
two sides of the room. On this platform are arranged
mats; one of which is allotted to you. There are no
stools, chairs, or tables. An Arab boy now busies him-
self as your attendant, assists you in unrobing, and
throws over you the bath dress. You then descend the
marble steps again, pass through a door, cross a narrow
passage, enter another door, and find yourself at once in
the Bath-par excellence—the one only heated apartment,
in which all the sudorific and cleansing operations take
place. This room is a large circular building some fifty
feet in diameter, surmounted by a dome, in which are
inserted about half-a-dozen small windows, which do
duty for both light and ventilation, if any. Around the
room are some half-dozen alcoves, well supplied with hot
and cold water, into one of which the patient retires, as
soon as he is ready for shampooing.
"In the centre of the room is a large platform covered
with marble, once no doubt white, but now, from long
and constant use, of a dingy swarthy hue. On this, half-
a-dozen patients can lie down at a time. The heat of
the apartment is by no means great; the skin, however,
soon begins to yield, and in about half an hour you are
ready for manipulation.
"You are now led into one of the alcoves, and your
Arab bathman at once begins operating upon you, first,
by gently squeezing you all over, bending all your joints,
twisting you in all directions, and then, by leaning his
whole weight upon your chest. By this time you are
tolerably supple, and fit for the next operation. Your
attendant now bids you to sit up, and then beginning
with the nape of your neck, he flays you alive all over,
with a glove made of some woollen or fibrous substance.
Whatever your sensations may be, your operator grins
with delight at his skill in rubbing off the outer cuticle
312
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of
your skin and rolling it up in little twists, and placing
it on the floor before your eyes.
(C
During this deeply interesting process, he will amuse
himself, and edify you, by chanting one of his mono-
tonous Arab dirges, and if you join in, and try to imitate.
his nasal twang, he will be much pleased. He will not,
however, appreciate any attempt on your part to sing one
of the melodies which possess greater charms for culti-
vated taste.
(6
As soon as the skinning work is done, your atten-
dant will soothe you all over with a plentiful supply of
delicious soap and hot water, and after a few dashes of
cold water you may consider yourself fairly polished
off.
66 But you have not yet done with the bath. Another
half hour must be devoted to the cooling process. You
are now led back to the marble platform, on which you
sit; you are enveloped in folds of thin white muslin, as
white and clean as the driven snow, and with a turban
around your head, you emerge from the hot room a
veritable Moor!
"You follow your attendant, and are led back again
to the outer hall from whence you came. Your little
Arab boy is ready to receive you in charge, and leads
you at once to your mat, arranges it for your siesta,
covers you over, and then demands what refreshment you
would like a pipe, a cigaret, a cigar, tea, or coffee?
Having supplied your wants, he squats himself down by
your side, will finish your cigar, or drench off the dregs
of your coffee, will watch over your repose, and be ready
to hand you your clothes the moment you wish to rise.
You give your little naked-legged attendant three or
four sous, and a franc to the dignified Moor sitting
at the receipt of custom, and with many low salaams,
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313
and with one skin less to burden you, you take your
departure.
(6
The great desiderata in these baths are cleanliness,
and ventilation. The good one gets from the bath itself,
is half destroyed by the vitiated atmosphere of the
heated room.
"The bath is devoted to the use of the Moorish
ladies in the afternoon of each day, from twelve to
five o'clock. Negresses attend these veiled beauties."
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CHAPTER XXVIII.
EXCURSIONS.
Excursion to Sidi Ferruch-Another Visit to La Trappe-Picnic at Torre
Chica-Landing-place of the French-Story of Sidi Ferruch's Miracle-
Head of the Frais Vallon--Floral Luxuriance-Absinthe d'Afrique—Rain
in May—The Noon-day Siesta-Arab Trades—Amadou Folding-Cabinet-
maker's Painting and Gilding-Moor Embroidering with Naked Feet-
Another Disastrous Case of English Emigration.
Tuesday, May 3d.-Another pleasant excursion to-day.
A picnic having been planned to come off at Sidi
Ferruch, we started at 7 A.M. to arrive there in time
for a déjeuner on the sands. Not one whit too early
are these matinal expeditions, for long before we can
reach our destination, the sun has asserted its power
in a manner not to be trifled with. The equestrians
are therefore provided with a loose white covering for
their hats, or caps, and a pendant resembling a white
calico veil, attached behind.
The cavalry officers always wear these preservatives
from the heat. The first time I saw a lady with one
I thought it passing strange, but now I should be very
sorry to ride without such a protection for the head,
and neck. To-day, however, I had a seat in one of
the carriages, two only of the gentlemen braving the
sun on horseback. Our route was the same as that
to Coléah; but, to-day, the sun was shining, and every-
thing seemed in responsive harmony. At Ras Knater,
near Guyotville, a French officer, of our party, showed
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
315
us the ruins of an aqueduct, formerly used for conveying
water to the Casbah.
We stopped to rest the horses at La Trappe, and
again prevailed on the monk concierge to allow us a
peep at the beautiful group of palms. It is sad to see
these trees usually so far apart, waving their feathered
plumes in their isolated glory, types of the race whose
dominion has departed; but here the group of ten,
though not the loftiest specimens of their kind, give
an idea of the oases in the desert, which sometimes
refresh and gladden the traveller. Another motto inside
the portals, "Que sert à l'homme de gagner l'univers
entier, s'il perd son âme ?" made us wish that the true
way of salvation could indeed be proclaimed within its
walls. On our last visit we had been struck with a
venerable-looking old monk, whose-
"Withered locks and tresses grey,
Seemed to have known a better day
>>
that is, he had the bearing of a man who had mixed
in good society; and as he came without the gates, to
bid adieu to a party of gentlemen to whom he had
apparently been doing the honours of the Abbey, Mrs.
E. exclaimed, in English, "Oh, you handsome old man,
do turn round and let us look at you!" Whether or
not it was a mere coincidence, we could not tell, but
he turned towards us at once, bowing most courteously,
and displaying to advantage the long white beard which
reached down to his ceinture. We tried to find out
from our monk who he was, but the extent we could
ascertain was, his belief that he came from France, no
communication ever passing between the brothers within
those triste walls. Another of their mottoes ran thus:
"S'il est triste de vivre à la Trappe, qu'il est doux d'y
316
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mourir," a sentiment the force of which we could not
at all appreciate.
They must have ample employment in the cultivation
of their extensive territories; but, nevertheless, several
of the working fraternity, a large body of whom were told
off for their respective employments, as we were resting
under the gateway, struck us as having a sadly vacant
expression of countenance, amounting in some cases
almost to idiotcy. Does the reflection never force itself
upon the thoughtful amongst them, that the service of
God requires the highest exercise of their intellectual
faculties, instead of an abnegation of all that constitutes
the glory of manhood?
Leaving La Trappe de Staouéli, and its plain, on
which we were assured, in spite of the cultivation it
now obtains, several balls and bullets (reminiscences of
the Waterloo of Algeria), are constantly picked up, we
pursued our route, till we reached a column intimating
that the "Grande Armée " had come that way in 1830,
and indicating the détour we ought now to make. This
heath, or common, or whatever name it rejoices in, is
uncommonly pretty, abounding in the usual wealth of
vegetation.
Here and there, especially as we neared the fort, the
cultivation of tobacco and grain had upturned the soil,
which, as one of our French friends naïvely assured us,
had not otherwise been touched since the creation of the
world. We were not in a position to contradict, or
affirm this statement, but we could better judge of the
difficulties which he pointed out to us as having greeted
the French army on their landing, from the extraor-
dinarily broken nature of the ground. It looked as if a
series of miniature earthquakes had disturbed its equili-
brium, but not that of the myrtle, olive, cypress, lentisk,
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317
cistus, and various other shrubs which adorned its surface,
and which must have presented anything but pleasant
galloping ground for an advancing host. The panther
formerly disported itself here; and the wild boar, the
porcupine, and the tortoise are still to be found.
tations of pine fir-trees, were to be seen on approaching
the promontory, which juts far out into the sea, forming
a bay on either side.
Plan-
We had intended to be very historical, and to devote
ourselves to the inspection of every crag, and nook of
a landing-place, which forms so important a frontispicce
in the annals of French Algeria.* But somehow by the
time we arrived at Torre Chica, or Sidi Ferruch, about
ten o'clock, the whole party was ravenous, and antiqua-
rian researches were compelled to yield to the pangs of
hunger. We sought shelter in vain along the sands, and
on the only high rock to be seen, and at length beat
a retreat to a deserted-looking building, in the fosse of
which our whole party were soon established, and doing
full justice to the ample provisions displayed.
66
Why is this spot called Sidi Ferruch instead of Torre
Chica, which seems its original name?" was our first
profound inquiry.
Sidi Ferruch was a marabout of wondrous sanctity,
and the legends which tradition has handed down as to
the miracles wrought by this saint, prove at least that
Rome must not arrogate to herself all the glory of con-
trolling the supernatural. On one occasion, a Spaniard
determined on carrying off this holy man, so as to remove
from the infidel Moors an object of their idolatrous
attachment. He succeeded in taking him on board his
* A sketch of the landing of the French army, and some other very beautiful
engravings of views in Algeria, illustrate M. Berbrugger's magnificent work,
entitled "L'Algérie, par A. Berbrugger," a copy of which is to be found in
the British Museum.
↑
318
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vessel; but when he would have made for Spain, the
Fates were evidently against it. He strove hard against
wind and tide, but morning broke, after a hard night of
toil, and showed him the peninsular he had just quitted.
Astonished and surprised, he surveyed his captive, who
calmly remarked, "Land me again, and thy vessel may
return to Spain." A qualmish feeling crept over the
mariner—sailors are always superstitious-and the saint
was landed at Torre Chica.
Again the vessel set sail, but again the following morn-
ing the Spaniard found himself close to the shore. In
despair he looked closely at his barque, when he dis-
covered that Sidi Ferruch's slippers had been left behind.
Conquered by this overwhelming evidence, he hastened
to restore the sandals to their owner; and not only so,
but, throwing himself at the feet of the saint, implored to
be enrolled amongst the faithful. Tradition adds that
the master and his convert henceforth lived together, and
were buried in the same tomb; but the tomb has long
since disappeared, though Sidi Ferruch has an undying
place in the remembrance of the Arabs. By such lying
tales all false religions are maintained. Yet who, after
this, can doubt the value of tradition ?
To the right of the peninsula on which the fort stands,
is a lovely little bay, and almost close upon its beach, are
the sand-hills, which extend right and left, forming quite
a relief to the picture, as we had noticed en route to
Coléah. They are not to be compared to those at Bou-
logne, nor to many in England, but, as a variety, they
look well in the picture. We wandered along the beach,
gathering shells, and collecting plants. G. also found a
specimen of the reptile tribe, a serpent curling himself up,
in a crag of the rock, about the last place we should have
expected to meet with one.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
319
A number of cottages, with gardens almost down to the
water's edge, were the residences of marsh gardeners, who,
together with fishermen, form the non-military part of
the population. At one of these, a boat for a sail on the
water might have been procured; but we, unfortunately,
did not know this till too late, and so betook ourselves
to the rocks, where, with sketching, reading, talking, and
scrambling, we beguiled a very pleasant day. A tract
was offered to a French soldier, who sat himself down to
read it aloud, pronouncing it repeatedly, "bien joli." I
repassed him soon after, when he asked if it had come
from England.
"We brought some from England, and others have
been sent from Paris; but why do you ask?"
“Because I never in my life saw any of these little
books before, so I thought they were only to be had in
England."
We have had repeated evidences of the welcome ac-
corded by the French soldiers to tracts, and portions of
the sacred Scriptures, and one longs to have greater
opportunities of distributing them amongst them. At
this moment, a camp of 4,000 men has just been esta-
blished outside the Porte d'Isly. If we had but the
facilities, which London or Paris would afford, of getting
these messengers in large numbers, how gladly would we
distribute them amongst these soldiers.
Our day's rambles over, we returned to a late dinner
spread on the sands under an extempore tent, and then
started to return home. Ere long the sun set amidst
roseate, and orange, and golden-hued clouds, and as we
passed the cemetery of La Trappe, the orbs of night
were shining resplendently on its many crosses, and
lighting up the extensive wall which encircled the
grounds, provoking one of the party to propound the
320
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
enigma, "Who ought to rank as the oldest, and best
astronomers?
دو
"The Chaldeans," said one. "The English," said
another. It was given up.
The stars themselves; for they have studded the
heavens ever since the creation."
Good laws are good things; and a regulation which
has wisely been passed in France is, that any one driving
after sunset without lamps, shall pay a heavy fine; but
not only were the carriages of our party unprovided with
these necessaries, but every cart or waggon, without
exception, which we met was similarly lawless, and we
had one narrow escape of being driven into. However, we
got home in safety, and were at least lit up as we neared
our own door by glow-worms, and fire-flies, which every
night treat us to an unbought illumination, the tiny yet
bright beauty of which only the stars themselves can
rival.
May 9th.-Everything here in French parlance dates
from la conquête, which they talk of much as we do in
England of the Norman Conquest. Everything, I should
have said, but earthquakes, which seem all to have been
anterior to the said conquête. I often wonder if the
beautiful conformations around here, and which appear to
have been owing to some great convulsion of nature, were
in any wise caused by these earthquakes.
To-day we wound our way to the top of a pyramidal
hill, which looks just as if it had been upheaved by some
such effort. It is one which all good pedestrians should
visit. It is planted with vines to its very summit, amidst
rocks and crags peeping out, and the view is exquisite
from the top. It overlooks the Frais Vallon, and takes
in the Poudrière, the Cité Bugeaud, and the bay rolling
in under St. Eugène to the north; the Bouzaréah looks
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321
down upon it on the west, the steep, yet verdure-clad sides,
of the Sahel on the east, and to the south it follows the
windings of the Aïoun-Sr'akhna, till it is lost amidst
foliage and glens, and heights surmounted with Moorish
houses.
These last, indeed, are to be seen on every side,
sparklingly white; and, to crown all, a powerful echo
repays any loud exercise of the voice. In descending, we
passed a field of barley, already yellow, and apparently
ready for the sickle, the height of the stalks being by
measurement between six and seven feet.
On the floral glories of the vegetable kingdom I am
almost afraid to expatiate, being so tempted to run wild
over the beautiful flowers which surround us. Each
flower has its day, appears in profusion, is seen every-
where for two or three weeks, and then for the most part.
disappears. To-day, a sweet pea of the brightest crimson
dressed the hedges, having shone out for the first time.
The dazzlingly blue pimpernel has been less evanescent
in its splendour, which always tempts one to adopt the
apostrophe to the gentianella,
"Blue thou art, intensely blue !
Flower, whence came thy dazzling hue?
I
The asphodel, in point of beauty, holds a high place, alike
on moor, and canvas. Regarding its peculiar odour, I
have had many a controversy with a friend, who once
declined walking with me if I carried it in my hand.
convinced her, after making her smell it by a ruse, that
she was wrong, and some time after was convinced myself,
by the same test, that she was right. The fact is, that
when first appearing, and as long as it remains in full
bloom, there is no unpleasant odour, but when fading
away, so disagreeable a perfume is emitted, that those,
who like my friend have once inhaled it, will never forget
Y
1
322
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it. A French speculator has unhappily discovered, that
from its roots a pernicious, not to say poisonous, spirit,
can be extracted, and this is sold in large quantities to
both the French soldiers, and natives, under the name of
Absinthe d'Afrique. A pale, delicate blue iris, three or
four inches high, has been strewing the ground, but its
blossom has faded, and even its whereabouts I have now
a difficulty in ascertaining.
That rain is to be seen here in May, we shall remem-
ber from the fact that a pic-nic, planned to take place to
day, had to be given up in consequence of the heavy
rain which fell this morning.
Tuesday, May 10th.-A parting visit to the town.
All business is suspended between the hours of twelve
and one, to afford people time for a noonday siesta. It
did seem so strange six months since, to see a portly Arab
butcher lying down full length asleep on a bench, and
leaving his shop to take care of itself; but it seems natural
now. And when we climb the narrow streets, and watch
the Arabs plying their trades, seated cross-legged at their
step doors, moulding their red clay pipes, folding amadou,
or cutting tobacco; or stop at a cabinet maker's, and see
their grotesque painting and gilding, on teatrays, and
mirror frames and shelves; or examine the most delicate
embroidery in white, and coloured floss silk, passing
under the fingers of Moors with naked feet, and heaps of
the raw materials lying about, our gaze does not seem
inquisitive to them, any more than their occupation is
now new to us. Soon we must say adieu to Moorish
shops, and horse-shoe arches, but I like to linger amongst
them whilst we can.
An early entry in my journal, speaks of a family of
English emigrants, who we found here in great distress,
having been decoyed hither by misrepresentations, and
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323
who, but for casual help, and such daily supplies as kind-
hearted people extended to them, must have sunk from
fever and want. They were finally sent home, since when
they seem to have prospered.
Another case, conveying an equal warning, is that of
a respectable widow, which has just been brought under
our notice. She was induced to come out here, binding
herself to remain three years with a family, the "lady” of
which, she innocently concluded, was either wife or sister
to the gentleman who engaged her. At the end of the three
years, her return journey home was to be paid. The
widow, who was to take rank somewhere between a
superior servant, and a humble companion, has only been
here a few months, but long enough to discover that the
"lady" occupies no such position as she supposed; and in
very many respects her situation is so uncomfortable, that
she cannot remain, and yet has no money to return to
England.
The consul has no means placed at his disposal to assist
these unfortunate people. However, he has warmly taken
up her case, and it is now settled she is to leave in the
same steamer that takes us home. Intending emigrants,
or their friends, should be strongly urged to look before
they leap.
Y 2
324
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CHAPTER XXIX.
LAST EXCURSIONS.
Ride to Cheragas and Guyotville-Visit to a Party of Arabs under a Carob-
tree-Beauties of the Sea-coast--Déjeûner al fresco at Point Pescade-
Green Peas and Covent Garden-Sea Bathing-Fort Pescade and Abdy
the Corsair-Natural Breakwater-Ride to the Bouzaréah-The Pirates'
Nest-The Kourouglis-Exemption from Algerian Piracy, purchased by
England and other Nations-Geology of the Bouzaréah-Floral Beauties-
Farewells—Attended a Wedding-Further Tidings of the Mutiny-A Battle
Illness of the Governor-General-Sale of Saladin-An Arab Sharper—
Visit to the Museum-Public Library-- Exposition Permanente-Prepara-
tions for departure-Concluding Remarks on French Rule in Algeria.
Wednesday, May 11th.-A day of glowing colours.
We made out a new ride, which I would recommend to
all visitors to Algiers, from El-Biar to Cheragas, by the
Route Malakoff to Guyotville, and back to Algiers by the
Point Pescade. By the direct road it is twenty-three
miles, but a détour which we made, which prolonged the
ride, added considerably to its interest.
Half-way between El-Biar and Cheragas, a bridle road
leading up to a heath, tempted us to turn aside to the
right, G.'s organs of locality assuring us that we should
find it a short cut to the latter village. Pursuing it
accordingly, we soon hailed some Arab shepherds tending
their flocks, and inquired whither the road led.
"Nowhere," was the reply.
But we suggested that there was at least a footpath;
did it lead to Cheragas, or Staoucli? No, only to a
Did it join any high road? No, it stopped on the
heath. It was a clear case of "Thes rode gose noe ware”
moor.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
325
as a friend of mine, travelling in Somersetshire, once
actually saw inscribed on a wayside finger-post. Never-
theless we pushed on to the said heath, admiring the
glens and craggy rocks on either side, as far as the road
would take us, and then, knowing that our trusty Arab
steeds would go anywhere, we made a long descent, a
deep rut, perhaps once a water-course, serving as a clue
through the low brush-wood, and up a rocky mound,
when to our great delight we found ourselves in an Arab
douar. We did not see any of their huts, but the men
themselves were assembled in a body in front of a Café
Maure, which was overshadowed by an immense Carob-
tree.
One of the Arabs came forward at once, and offered
us coffee, and a seat on a mat spread under the Carobier.
The fruit of the Carobier, a sort of brown-coloured bean,
eaten as food by Arabs and horses, somewhat resembles in
appearance the long pods of the scarlet runner, hanging
down in clusters. It is said to be of this that the "swine
did eat," when the Prodigal Son would fain have par-
taken of their leavings. Wishing to appear friendly, we
dismounted, and each had a cup of brown stirabout,
which it certainly is, though after allowing all the
grounds to settle, the liquid is super-excellent.
It was one of the most picturesque scenes; Arab girls
were driving their lowing cattle up the rock we had just
ascended, the views immediately around, the blue moun-
tains in the distance, and the sun bathing its beams in
the bay of Sidi Ferruch, all were striking points of
beauty; and then these living descendants of Ishmael and
Abraham in the foreground, altogether formed a study
a painter might have envied.
One who seemed the patriarch of the party, interested
us much, but their stock of French was limited, and so
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was our time. Soon bidding them adieu, we took a
rugged pathway which they pointed out as leading to
Cheragas, and passing through oleanders, now for the
first time coming into flower, and a ravine in which the
tall white poplar gracefully waved, we found ourselves
on the high road to Cheragas, G.'s "short cut," having
at least given us a pleasurable little adventure.
About a kilometre or so from this village-how
earnestly I hope Mr. Ewart's Bill will not succeed in
importing kilometres and kilogrammes into England-
we turned off to follow the "route Malakoff," which
took us to Guyotville, up hill and down dale, showing
signs of landslips past, and ready to give way again ere
long, but affording plenty of good cantering ground, and
a lovely view of the Mediterranean, as we came down
upon it. All sorts of Roman remains are to be found
on, or near, this route, meriting the attention of archa-
ologists. We crossed the river Beni Messous, over a
high bridge spanning a ravine of the same name. The
small pink geranium, which we cultivate so carefully
in our greenhouses, is found here in sweet and wild
luxuriance.
Once descended upon Guyotville, the road, as yet
unfinished to Point Pescade, and on which we found
soldiers busily employed, is beautiful in the extreme.
It winds along the sea cliffs, revealing at every turning,
coves, and sands, and caves, and fire rocks, with colouring
that in a picture looks exaggerated. All this beneath us,
while above us cliffs of no great height, were pointing
up their
grey peaks in subdued contrast to the cloudless
blue sky.
At Point Pescade, opposite to the old fort, stood a
café and restaurant, so inviting that we stopped for some
refreshment. This led to a pic-nic being arranged, and
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327
we agreed to come here shortly for a déjeuner, prelimi-
nary to a long day being spent in exploring the beauties
of the immediate vicinity. We had intended taking the
heights of the Bouzaréah on our way back, but it was
now getting late, and we thought it more advisable to
return by Algiers direct.
Friday, May 13th.-The contemplated déjeuner al
fresco has just terminated, and I am writing under the
shade of some large almond-trees, the fruit of which is
now about ripening. It so closely resembles unripe
green peaches about an inch and a half long, that until
the fruit was opened, and we had eaten the almonds, we
could hardly believe the testimony of their owner.
In the Times of May 5th, I saw a notice of young
potatoes having been just received at Covent Garden,
and sold at 2s. a pound. Here we have had them
through the winter, and are giving three farthings per
pound. Young green peas, and even large marrowfats
are at the same price. A gentleman told me the other
day, that overtures had been made by a market-gardener
in Covent Garden, to a party here, to supply him with
new potatoes, and green peas, throughout the winter.
Five days' travelling would, I should fear, disagree with
the latter.
This morning, en route hither, I had my first dip in
the Mediterranean. The season, in the view of the resi-
dents, does not commence till June 1st, so I had the
ladies' bathing cove to myself, and very pleasant were
the sun-bright classic waters of ancient Icosium. On
the eve of quitting these shores, one looks at the Corsair
City so visibly passing away, and being replaced by tall
French houses, with mingled sensations of pleasure, and
regret pleasure at having dwelt awhile amidst scenes
so strangely linked with a long past, and regret which
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ever blends with the word adieu, especially when one
never expects again to tread the same soil. But the
gentlemen have finished their siestas, and my moralizing
must end.
Point Pescade is well worth a day's visit. It forms
one of the extreme points of the rugged sides of the
Bouzaréah, as it descends into the sea. The old ruined
Fort stands on a peninsula, or long narrow rocky point,
stretching out into the sea; and is said to owe its
origin to Barbaroussa.
This was the stronghold of "Abdy" the old Corsair.
Here it was that Barbaroussa watched his white-winged
prey. Here lay his piratical galleys, under shelter of
the natural breakwater; and many a tale of cold-blooded
ferocity could these walls unfold, if stones could only
speak. In his personal prowess and daring, to welcome
foes only to their destruction, Abdy must have placed
his confidence; for a glance is sufficient to convince one
that a sea attack could never have been contemplated,
unless indeed a landslip have carried away a large pro-
portion of the building. Further in, on the same neck
of land, stands one of more recent construction, which
was built by El-Hadj Ali Agha in 1671. The good
fortune of a galley, which, having been cast on the coast
close by the old Fort, was yet able to effect its escape,
under the very nose of the Algerine pirates, led to the
erection of the latter.
The sea breezes on the summits of these Forts, were
most invigorating, and made us think this point of land
the only place which could vie in salubrity with El-Biar.
Some coast-guards are quartered in the two buildings,
and we almost envied their lodgings. From thence we
descended to a cave, which has however nothing remark-
able in its interior, or exterior, nor does it offer any fossil
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329
remains, which can tempt the geologist to imperil his
neck in exploring it.
To see the succession of little caves, and caverns, with
which this immediate vicinity abounds, the tourist should
take a boat, and coast along its windings. Transition
rocks, serving as base to the tertiary formation, are said
to constitute the whole mass of the Bouzaréah; and
the fire rocks which stand out in frowning cliffs over-
hanging the sea, are most picturesque. Pebbly beaches,
and miniature sandy coves abound on the sea-side; and
inland ravines, and cascades, and rising heights, offer
retired and beautiful spots for pic-nics. However, we
were very well satisfied with our restaurant of St.
Augustine, the landlord of which begged us to recom-
mend him to all future explorers.
Mr. H. took his dredging-net, but without much result.
When bathing this morning, G. had made acquaintance,
more close than desirable, with certain aquatic specimens
which pierce the bather, leaving a substance sometimes
imbedded in the skin for months, resembling hard, black
thorns. Bathing-slippers are said to be the only pre-
servative.
We had now to hasten home to receive a friend, whose
last evening was to be spent with us. These adieux are
making us feel it is time for us also to be off. We have
already sold our furniture, to be taken as soon as we
leave. Saladin has not yet found another master; but
this is nearly the last business on hand before we too take
wing, and leave Africa in the blue distance.
Saturday, May 14th.-My only entry to-day must be
a note respecting the Kourouglis, a class of the natives to
whom I have not yet alluded. They are the offspring of
Turkish fathers, and Moorish mothers, but are fast dis-
appearing as a special class. They dress in the Moorish
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costume, and their bronze-like complexion is their only
distinguishing mark, as far as I have noticed.
Whit-Monday. This being Mr. H.'s last day, one of
the party on our visit to the interior, we agreed to take
a farewell ride to the tombs on the Bouzaréah, which we
explored much more thoroughly than on our former visit.
The day, too, was more propitious, and the lovely views
unveiled on all sides.
The tombs are scattered over three peaks, or, as they
are always called here, mamelons. The highest of these
we ascended, although in doubt whether the saddles would
not slip off the horses' tails, and were well repaid by the
panorama. We passed through the Arab douar, which
lies close under this peak, the poor remains of the once
formidable nest of pirates, whose eagle eye discerned, and
whose marauding talons managed to secure as their prey,
many a passing sail, which had little expected so hapless
a destiny. Here we were beset by a dozen Arab boys,
who came to proffer their assistance, and to do anything
or nothing, which might win a sou. It sounds almost
incredible, with our present ideas of propriety, that so
many nations should have consented to purchase exemp-
tion from these piratical attacks by paying an annual
tribute to the Dey. Previous to Lord Exmouth's appear-
ance in these waters, England, Spain, Sweden, Denmark,
Portugal, Sicily, Tuscany, and Sardinia, made a yearly
payment to Algiers, amounting to 858,600 fr. thereby
recognising piracy as a legitimate source of revenue.
addition to this, on the appointment of any consul, large
presents had to be made, which were the perquisites of
the Dey pro tem.
In
For the benefit of geologists, I may as well add, that
on this Bouzaréah, veins of hard granite are to be found,
and that we have been told of beds of gneiss, and mica-
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331
schist, and other hard names; but all these hidden strata
we left unexplored, contenting ourselves with picking the
flowers which grew on their soil, and which are now in
great perfection. The spiky flowers of the aloe look
ready to burst forth, but disappoint us from day to day.
The cactus has been some little time in bloom, though
its little yellow cup is a cheat on the magnificent cacti of
our English greenhouses; the sweet pea is covering the
hedges, the gum-cistuses, and the sun-cistuses peeping
out beside the glossy, prickly-leaved acanthus, now just
coming into flower in certain sheltered nooks; the wild
vine is laden with the promise of fruit, the fig-trees are
scenting the air, and flowers, whose very names are un-
known to us, are attracting us on all sides. Ferns do not
grow in Madeirian luxuriance by any means, a fact for
which the greater dryness of Algiers is said to account.
We were told there was a road leading to Point
Pescade; but we went half way down, and then found
it an utter failure; so we had to take the winding route
to St. Eugène, thence to Algiers, and back to El-Biar in
clouds of dust.
It adds much to the pleasure of riding, to have dis-
covered the value of using the curb alone, by which means
I find these Arab horses can usually be managed with
comfort, and safety. One of the canine pests nearly
caused an accident in returning. We were riding fast
up the road from the town, when a dog sprang out upon
my horse, who naturally shied, when at that instant a
report of a gun was heard, so near, that the dog flew
back into the house, and the horse did his best to spring
over the low parapet. However, we reached home in
safety, thanks to the curb.
Mr. H. intends to take back with him some of the
beautiful wood of the tuya-tree, which attracted so much
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attention in the Great Exhibition, and which is sold in
layers for veneering, making its importation into England
a very
feasible affair. And now another farewell had to
be said, and we have the curious sensation of lingering
on, the last, perhaps, of all the English visitors here. We,
too, must now pack up, and be off, on Saturday next, our
passage in the Messagerie Impériale being bespoken,
though we cannot as yet take our places.
It is only too well-known, that the English here have
good cause to complain of exorbitant charges; but I
hardly thought the French smarted equally under a
like infliction, till I received a letter from a French
gentleman, which drew my attention to the fact. I give
his own words: "I would like to ask you to give a little
hint to Algerians, expressing the desire of their putting
down a little their prices, otherwise they do make people
remember that Algiers is a little of what she used to be,
a nest of corsaires et de forbans." Without much hope
that this "hint" will reach the eyes of those intended
to be benefited by it, still, I give it as requested.
May 17th.-An invitation to the wedding of a young
French Protestant lady, with a Roman Catholic, took
us again to-day into Algiers, which is becoming un-
bearably hot.
It is the custom here to send two notifications of an
event of this kind, one emanating from the parents of the
bride, and a second from the parents of the bridegroom,
requesting the attendance of all their friends at the
bénédiction nuptiale, at such a day and hour. This
afforded us a good opportunity of inspecting the Cathe-
dral. The religion of the Virgin replaced that of Maho-
met, in the mosque of Hassen, which afforded a beautiful
sample of its own peculiar style of architecture. It was
a rectangular building, surmounted by a cupola supported
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333
on fine marble columns, but being too small to accommo-
date all the Roman Catholic worshippers, it has been
demolished, and another erected in, its stead. This one
has a wide flight of no less than twenty marble steps, on
account of the steepness of the hill on which it stands,
and has altogether, especially inside, a very Eastern look.
The first marriage duly performed, we adjourned to the
Protestant Temple in company with most of the notabilities
of Algiers. These being almost without exception Roman
Catholics, did not seem to relish the French Protestant
service, which terminated in a long, and somewhat weari-
some exordium, addressed to the bride, and bridegroom,
respecting their conjugal duties. The newly married
couple, who had to stand during the whole of it, in front
of the rails, were not I fear at all sorry when it came to a
conclusion. The names of the bridegroom "Victor Albert"
sounded pleasantly in English ears.
A young French officer who had brought letters of
introduction from Paris, breakfasted with us this morning.
The news to-day is that the only hope of compelling the
Arabs to submission lies in driving them towards the
desert. Then, when the hot weather comes on, they must
either yield, or their flocks and herds will die. A great
battle was telegraphed last night. The French admit a
loss of 25 men, but say they left 400 or 500 Arabs dead
on the field.
The Governor-General is very seriously ill. Anxiety
respecting the present state of affairs, is said to have
something to do with his illness. The Emperor offered
him the Governorship of the Invalides in Paris, when last
vacant. His reply was, "he would take that post when
he was an old man." Fears are now entertained as to
his recovery on account of his
age!
*
* Marshal Pelissier died three days after we left Algiers.
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Wednesday, May 18th.-Poor Saladin was sold to-day.
We had a narrow escape of having lost him a week ago.
An Arab, who proved himself as clever as a London
sharper, came up two or three times, and tried to get
possession of the horse, under pretence that he knew an
officer who had seen, and wished to purchase him. As
his application was backed up by a forged note from
the stable-keeper whom we had employed, it was almost
surprising his ruse did not succeed.
Visited the Musée to-day, and the public library,
which contains already between 9 and 10,000 volumes.
Both are in the same building, formerly a Moorish palace,
in the Rue Lotophages. The museum is beautifully
arranged the French understand such matters-and the
Roman remains of the three provinces, may here be seen.
to advantage, A Neptune, a Venus, and a Bacchus have
been brought from Cherchell, and other antiquities from
divers parts.
One day during the winter, we went to the Exposition
Permanente in the Rue Bab-Azzoun, but happened to
choose a day when it was closed to the general public.
The guardians of the place seeing our disappointment,
politely said as we were strangers they would admit us,
and as we had it to ourselves, we saw it to great advan-
tage. The products of the Palm-tribe fibres, interested
us much.
The lions, too, from the neighbourhood of
Milianah, were fine specimens.
Thursday, May 19th.-Our places could not be de-
finitely secured till to-day. G. went in before breakfast
and took them at half-past eight o'clock. Half an hour
afterwards he tried to change his own berth, but found
every single place taken! Busy all day paying farewell
visits, and packing up.
Mentioning to M. Lowitz the inquiry which we had
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335
thought so strange, of the monk of La Trappe, "Do you
tutoyer Dieu?" He said this was a distinguishing mark
by which he always knew Protestants, from Romanists.
When he had had reason to believe that an applicant had
falsely stated his Creed, he would tell them to repeat the
Lord's Prayer. If of the latter persuasion, they inva-
riably used the word "vous;" if of the former, they always
said "tu."
Still unpleasant tidings from the interior. The frame
of mind of the Arabs, even up to the gates of the city,
seems decidedly perturbed; so who knows but that these
pages may record "a timely retreat from Algiers." Not
far from this is a coffee-house, famous as a place of rendez-
vous among the Arabs. We pass it constantly in one of
our favourite walks. Now we have been advised not to
go in that direction after dusk, and such like precautions.
Yet the French rule is so powerful, and so distinctly
recognised as such by the natives, that I cannot believe
in the existence of danger in the immediate vicinity of
Algiers. The actual rebellion has never yet extended
north of the Atlas.
The question often forces itself upon the mind, and
particularly so just now, whether the French conquest has
been a beneficial change, or otherwise, for the natives.
That it has been advantageous for Europe, there can pro-
bably no doubt exist, and that on the whole it has been
so for the Arabs themselves, I think must be equally
clear. The policy previously pursued under Mahomedan
rule, was so marked by deceit, fraud, extortion, oppression,
and duplicity, that it could not have had other than an
effect most injurious on the native character. The Arabs
naturally dislike their present rulers, just in the way
that a turbulent and unpromising schoolboy dislikes the
master, who is compelled to oppose a stern front to his
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misdemeanours; but as even they cannot but acknow-
ledge the French administration to be an improvement
upon their own, my belief is, that were success now to
crown their futile hopes, they themselves would be the
very first bitterly to deplore it. The corsair, like the
bandit, cannot be induced all at once to prefer lawful
earnings, to illegal gains; nor, possibly, can the Arabs as
yet realize the advantages of the lawful commerce, which
is now superseding the gains of rapine, and violence, in
which they heretofore indulged. Still, a comprehension
of this, however slowly, will surely enlighten them;
and, in bidding farewell to a people amongst whom
one has sojourned for some months, it is pleasant to
believe that the day of their deliverance from spiritual
bondage is nearer its dawn, than it could possibly be if
the fierce, fanatical spirit of Islamism still bore rule in
this land.
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337
CHAPTER XXX
HOMEWARD ROUTE THROUGH NORTH ITALY AND
SWITZERLAND.
Departure from El-Biar-Final Adieux-Storm in the Gulf of Lyons-Mar-
seilles-Toulon-Hyères-Cannes-Nice-The Corniche Road to Genoa-
Milan-Lakes of Como, Lugano, and Maggiore-Borromean Isles-Crossing
the Simplon-Martigny-Visit to the Hospice of Grand St. Bernard-
Baths of Lavey-Les Ormondes in the Vaudois Highlands-Pass of the
Tête Noir-Chamouni-Lake of Geneva-Castle of Chillon-Fribourg
Organist and Banting-Lake of Thun-Interlacken-The Staubbach-
Mürren-Grindenwald-Lake of Lucerne-Pass of St. Gothard-Devil's
Bridge-Return to Paris-Home.
Saturday, May 21st.-Our departure from El-Biar this
morning was not without characteristic attendant cir-
cumstances. Monsieur D. the owner of the house, came
up, and stood hat in hand, at the carriage door, with true
French politesse, to see us off; the servants were weeping,
and kissing our hands; and ere we had left the house it
was filled by Arabs, who were ready, under Zamit's com-
mand, to transport our furniture in the same way as they
had brought it up. Some of the villagers, also, came to
wish us "Bon voyage," and the two last requests which
reached us were for French Testaments.
At last we were off; once more, and for the last time,
winding our way down the zig-zag road which led to the
city. The heat was intense, but the sea looked deliciously
calm, and all augured well for a swift and enjoyable
passage. Only last week, the steamer coming here en-
countered a storm in the Gulf of Lyons, which drove her
Z
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under the coasts of Spain; but to-day all seems serene,
and lulls our fears to rest.
Arrived at the harbour, we bade adieu to chibouque,
turban, and fez; to veiled women and burnoused men;
to Jews and Jewesses, negroes and negresses, Moors,
Turks, Spaniards, French, and Germans; to the strange
mélange of Orientals, and Westerns, which distinguishes
Algiers, and embarked for Marseilles. Some of the friends
we have left behind, parted from us on board; amongst
others, Mr. Brown, who expressed in a most gratifying
manner, a great deal of kind feeling and sympathy. But
the bell cut short all that was being mutually said; and
we bade them farewell, and saw the shore and city recede
from view, with many and genuine regrets. All the green
slopes around the Fort de l'Empereur were already burnt
up. Whether or not we re-visit Algiers at a future time,
we bear away with us a very grateful remembrance of
benefit received from a winter's residence in its genial
climate, and of acquaintances made, and friendships
formed, which we hope to renew, if spared to meet again.
For the first twenty-four hours, our passage was all
that could be desired. The sea was calm as a mill-pond.
The hues of the sky, as we cast lingering glances back
towards the south, were glorious. The island of Majorca
was passed so closely, that we could see every church,
and fort, and house, on shore. There was scarcely a dis-
sentient voice to the wish-alas! unwisely framed—that
our voyage might be of prolonged duration. Everything
had been arranged for Sunday morning service, in which
an English family on board, and some who understood
the English language, were prepared to join; when lo!
the wind changed, premonitory symptoms of an approach
to the turbulent Gulf of Lyons appeared, and soon neither
chaplain, nor congregation, were able to make their appear-
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339
ance. The next twenty-four hours were as prolific of
suffering, as the previous time had been of enjoyment.
The dark waves, half purple, half slate-colour, crested
with snow-white foam, shading down to a silvery grey,
seemed ready at times to engulf us, and no one on board
was sorry when, after an unusually long passage, we at
length cast anchor in the port of Marseilles.
The next five months were spent in wandering
through North Italy, and beautiful Switzerland. Notes
were taken, and a journal written; but here I must
not forget that I am on too well trodden ground for
more than a very brief record. At Marseilles, Toulon,
Cannes, and Nice, we spent two or three days in each
place. On landing, we were wonderfully struck with
the evident improvements which had been going on
since our last visit, and which must necessarily make
Marseilles a place of no small importance. Much land
has been reclaimed from the sea, and on it buildings
are fast rising. We passed under an arch with this
inscription:-
À
LOUIS NAPOLEON,
MARSEILLE RECONNAISSANTE.
A drive to the Prado, gave us a fine view of the white
stone, verdure-besprinkled hills, which looked lovely as
we railed alongside of them to Toulon. From this
latter place, we went over and spent a long day at
Hyères, to get some idea of a spot which contends with
Algiers for the palm, as a winter's residence for invalids.
The winter visitors had all flown, and of the climate we
could not of course judge. But by special permission
from the owner, we gained entrance to the old castle
grounds, and were not a little charmed with the prospect
Z 2
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from the heights. Hyères is the great strawberry-garden
for France. We were regaled with this fruit at 2d. a
pottle, and saw women in troops gathering them for
market, and for sending away to Paris and elsewhere.
A little détour took us to the old town of Draguignan,
where they hope shortly to have that great civilizer, and
yet leveller, the railway; and then we came down upon
Cannes, with its beautiful bay, and Estrelle range, and
the isles of St. Honoré, and St. Marguerite, where the
Man in the Iron Mask so long and so hopelessly pined.
Grasse looked so lovely, set in its deep framework of
green, as we saw it first from the high hill on which
the old church stands; but its well-earned name for
sweet perfumes is no longer a monopoly, for in going
towards the English quarter at Cannes, we passed a
factory which scented the air on every side. We saw
magnificent gardens-cultivated, by the way, in a style
far superior to those of Algeria-in which heavily-
laden orange-trees stood en masse ready to shed their
fragrant white petals into baskets, which would convey
them to these factories, where they would fetch a high
price. The contrast between quiet little Cannes, and
noisy Nice, was very great. At both places the winter
visitors had either left, or were on the wing, yet we
were fortunate enough to find friends in each place.
The palm-tree, the aloe, the cactus, and the carobier,
here and there reminded us of the opposite coasts; but
it seemed strange, for several weeks after we had crossed,
to encounter no veiled women in our rambles, and still
more so never to find a young Arab following our steps,
offering for a very slight recompense to carry home our
purchases.
From Nice to Genoa, we engaged a carriage, which
took us over the Corniche Road in five days. The
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341
beauties of the Riviera di Ponente are too well-known
to hazard description. I never rejoiced so much in the
non-completion of an intended railway, as in the one
which we daily saw progressing beneath us, and which,
by virtue of the Franco-Sardinian treaty, must be
finished by the Governments of France and Italy—each
working on their respective frontiers-within a given
time. Their method of proceeding is wise and econo-
mical, in making all the railway tunnels before laying
down the intervening lines. A night at Mentone, where
the orangeries were, I thought, as fine or finer than those
of Blidah-though the fruit is seldom edible, being cul-
tivated only for its blossom, and another at Oneglia,
brought us to Savona, where we halted for the Sunday.
Both here, and at Mentone, we fell in with some ardent
young Garibaldians, delighted with the reception given
to their chief in England, but labouring under a
delusion, hard to dispel, that it was the inevitable pre-
cursor of a call to arms. Garibaldi must march to
Rome, England must mean to support him, they should
soon receive their summons, and within twelve hours
of the same, whatever their present occupation, they
will off at his bidding.
Savona will long be remembered by its beautiful fire-
flies, and by the double commemorations for which we
came in. The Festa Nationale, and that of the Holy
Ghost, were both celebrated on the Sunday, so that instead
of the Sabbath of rest to which we had looked forward,
ringing of bells, firing of cannon, reviews, or idolatrous
processions, occupied the day, from dawn to midnight.
The beautiful palaces of Genoa, and the liberality with
which their owners open them to the public, made our
stay there very agreeable. The Hotel D'Italie, with the
statue of Scipio Africanus at the head of a flight of steps
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#
in the vestibule, embowered by orange-trees, is exactly
the place to which travellers from Africa should bend
their steps.
The shipping in the beautiful harbour upon
which the hotel looks out at the back, is rapidly increas-
ing in importance, and bids fair to rival that of Marseilles,
if indeed rivalry be not, at no distant date, merged in a
sort of step-sisterhood.
But I am forgetting my intention to be brief. It is
hard not to linger at Bellagio, in fond remembrance of
the three weeks passed on the lake of unrivalled beauty,
that of Como, nor upon the sister lakes, nor the Borro-
mean Isles, that seem to have risen up out of the blue
waters of Lago Maggiore at the bidding of some enchanter.
The ducal gardens at the Isola Bella, banished all remem-
brance of African floriculture. Scented leaves fallen from
the camphor-trees strewed our path, the aromatic perfume
of cloves filled the air; the tea-shrub and coffee-plant
grew side by side; trees and plants never before imported
into Europe, flourished here: but none struck us more than
a beautiful orange mulberry of a light green shade, having
the shape and size of the orange, and the seed-like con-
formation of the mulberry. I forget its botanical name;
and even this Eden, with its ten terraces, its sculptures,
and grottoes, must not tempt us to linger on our way.
We crossed the Simplon, covered to its very summit with
the beautiful rose-coloured Rhododendron des Alpes, and
halted at Martigny, to visit the Gorge du Trient, the
newly-explored stalactite cavern at St. Maurice, and to
make a pilgrimage to the Hospice of St. Bernard.
We slept at the convent. No slight contrast was this
one, with its icy boundaries in the month of July, to the
last convent at which we had partaken of the hospitality
of its inmates. The vine-clad plains surrounding La
Trappe de Staouéli, well repay the diligent culture be-
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
343
stowed on them by the monks. Here, fourteen brethren
at most, compose the staff, and frequently they have to go
into hospital at Martigny. Yet, even here, flowers peep
out amidst the snow and ice; a pale blue heartsease
grows in profusion, so also the deep blue gentian, the
dwarf rhododendron, and many others which occupy a
well-known place in the Alpine flora.
The Mount St. Bernard dogs so took G.'s fancy, that I
feared we should have one as a pocket companion for the
rest of the way. We visited their "farm," which consists
of sixty cows, and in the height of summer the poor
animals find a scanty herbage to reward their diligent
search. The ghastly figures of those who had perished
in the snow, were shown us in the Morgue. Some had
been there forty years, unchanged since their snowy
grave had yielded its prey.
The baths of Lavey, or rather the presiding genius of
the place, Dr. Cosey, of European celebrity, tempted us
to remain a fortnight longer in the valley of the Rhone.
Separated by its fast flowing, dashing, turbid stream,
from the Theban martyr-field, we were midway between
those beautiful Dents, du Midi and de Morcle. A French
Protestant service held every Sunday in a small church
in the grounds, is an additional attraction to this spot;
and one of the many winding walks discovers to view a
waterfall, the height and gracefulness of which, claims
admiration even in this land of beauty.
"What would not some of your English noblemen give
to have such a waterfall as this in their grounds?" said a
Swiss gentleman, as we stood gazing up at it.
Both here, and in the Vaudois highlands, we found
pleasant society, which indeed we were fortunate enough
to meet with, in all parts of Switzerland. We stayed some
days at Sepay, where we breathed the delicious mountain
344
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
air of Les Ormondes, and visited the Diablerets. We had
intended spending a week at La Comballa, and went up
there to take apartments. Alas! not only the hotel, but
also the Swiss chalet attached, were full, and engaged for
weeks to come. And, strange as it may appear, every
single inmate, so we were told, was either English, Scotch,
or Irish.
Retracing our steps to Martigny, we crossed the Pass
of the Tête Noire on mules, and rejoiced in an uninter-
rupted view of Mont Blanc during the whole period of
our stay at Chamouni. All we felt, all we said, how we
repeated,
"Mont Blanc is the monarch of mountains
They crowned him long ago,
On a throne of rocks, in a robe of clouds,
With a diadem of snow,"
I must not here venture to recall. The only unromantic
association, was that excited by the well-known French
official livery, and to hear and feel that Mont Blanc was
now in France. If might does not make right, it can at
all events remove mountains.
On the shores of the Lac Leman, we spent three happy
weeks; we fell in with several friends, saw young Prince
Alfred and suite at Lausanne, read Byron's "Prisoner of
Chillon" when sailing towards his prison, and of course
sat where the captive had sat; and looked down the
oubliette where the fourth step plunged many a miserable
one into the depths of the lake below. But now the
well is filled up, and all these horrors numbered with the
tales of the past.
We had quitted Geneva itself just in time to escape the
August riots; some people we knew, less fortunate, were
on the bridge when the fray began, and had to run for
their lives through a cross-fire.
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
345
At Fribourg we halted for one night to hear the
unrivalled organ, or rather organist; for both Berne, and
Lucerne lay claim to pre-eminence as regards the instru-
ment, but the superior style of the artist none can dispute.
Yet soon, alas! this extraordinary performance will fade
from the scene, unless some humane Banting can make a
convert of the organist. We did not venture up into his
gallery, but Lord K. who gained access there, told us that
a more deplorable spectacle never met his gaze. Instead
of simply a double chin, the poor man had almost a second
face pendant, his arms were knit to his sides with fat; and
his fingers so all necessary to his performance-were
reduced from the same cause to half their original length.
The Lake of Thun, and Interlacken, with its beautiful
walks, and excursions, in sight of that glorious Jungfrau,
detained us for another week, ere we visited Lauter-
brunnen, gazed at the somewhat disappointing Staubbach,
and ascended to Mürren. Every year this latter ascent
is becoming better known, and no one, who can walk, or
ride, should omit a visit to Mürren. Of exactly the
same height as the Wengern Alp on the opposite side of
the valley, it affords one of the most striking panoramas
to be seen in Switzerland, embracing the whole outline
of the Bernese Oberland, from the Wetterhorn to the
Dolderhorn, the Jura range, the Diablerets, &c.
The fall of the avalanche first startled us in the
stillness of night, in the valley of Lauterbrunnen, and
the dull heavy thud, once heard, can never be forgotten.
Grindelwald, and its glaciers; Lucerne, and its ex-
quisitely beautiful lake watering four cantons; the Pass
of Mount St. Gothard, were all visited, and their beauties
revelled in. We slept at the Meyerhof, Hospenthal,---
which by the way, is far preferable to Andermatt,-and
counted more than a dozen prismatic bows playing on the
346
A WINTER IN ALGERIA.
foaming, raging torrent, which boiled, and seethed, and
surged, under the Devil's Bridge.
But everything must have an end, and reluctantly we
tore ourselves away from a land so sublime in its mountain
grandeur, and so sacred in its history of the past. We
reached Paris at the moment the fiat went forth, that
the occupation of Rome was to cease in 1866. Towards
Rome, and Jerusalem, the eyes of all thinking men have
long been bent. Well may it be so now. On inquiring after
the welfare of the Jewish Alliance,-which we had seen
four years since in its cradle, just as the long sought per-
mission of the Emperor had been received for its formation,
and ere six members had joined it-we found its rami-
fications had extended all over the known world, and that
it now numbered between 3,000 and 4,000 members.
Other, and not less interesting intelligence gladdened
us. The work of M. Henri Dunand stood foremost in
the rank of good news. While all Europe is preparing
for conflict, and every nation stands ready for war, it
was pleasant to hear of the neutral band of nurses,
surgeons, and trained assistants, prepared to minister in-
discriminately to the sick, the wounded, and the dying,
without distinction of friend, or foe. At every court
in Europe, has M. Dunand unfolded his philanthropic
scheme, urged its claims, and pleaded for co-operation.
Nowhere have his large-hearted plans met with more
cordial concurrence, than they have here at the hands of
Louis Napoleon. No one was better able to estimate
their importance. "I authorize you to go to every
general in my army," said the Emperor, "and commend
in my name your scheme to their support."
In Paris we found people were little aware of the
extent of the struggle which has been waging in Algeria.
So easily can these matters be arranged with a fettered
:
A WINTER IN ALGERIA,
347
press, that the Parisians had really no more idea of the
state of things in their one great colony, nor probably
half so much, as they would have had if Algeria had
been a British possession.
Once more we left Paris, and crossed the Channel from
Boulogne to Folkestone, landing in England just a
twelvemonth from the time we had quitted its shores,
for a winter's residence in Algeria.
APPENDIX.
THE CLIMATE OF ALGERIA.
The following remarks are extracted from Dr. Bodichon's Works on
Algeria:-
THE CLIMATE IS ESPECIALLY ADVANTAGEOUS-
1. For persons of a dry temperament; it is found that such are easily
naturalised here.
2. For old persons; they are much less liable than in Europe to
pulmonary diseases, and catarrhs.
3. For rheumatic subjects; they are much benefited, if not cured, by
a residence of some years here.
4. For lymphatic temperaments; the excess of heat and light is
good for them, and the south winds give them the tone and the dry-
ness they require.
5. For subjects disposed to phthisis; disorders of the lungs occur
much less frequently than in Europe: perhaps the tendency to inter-
mittent fevers, belonging to the climate, acts in antagonism to the
tendency of pulmonary disease, and is useful in facilitating the sepa-
ration, or elimination of tubercles.
THE CLIMATE IS DISADVANTAGEOUS-
1. For sanguine temperaments; the heat and the liability to fever
expose them to congestion of the brain or lungs.
2. For very corpulent persons; at the hot season their breathing is
oppressed, they have copious perspirations, and are liable to various
irritations of the skin. Not only human beings, but horses, dogs,
oxen, and other animals abounding in flesh, are apt to be suddenly
carried off by illness.
3. For persons affected by hypertrophy of the heart or large vessels;
for those suffering from gastritis, dysentery, and organic diseases gene-
rally; for all having any malady or idiosyncrasy of the nerves; for the
climate augments nervous irritability.
350
APPENDIX.
4. For drunkards; they pay their penalty in sanguineous congestion
and fevers; and for all who are subject to any disorder of the intellectual
faculties; for even in healthy subjects the climate renders liable some
disturbance of the mental and moral powers.
ADVICE TO CONSUMPTIVE PEOPLE.
It is admitted by almost all French physicians who know the Alge-
rian climate, that a residence in Africa can ameliorate and even cure
consumptive patients: twenty-one years' sojourn and medical practice
convince me that this colony affords means of amelioration and cure.
1. The European who is predisposed to consumption must spend
several months each year in Algeria, from the end of October till the
first days in June.
2. He must walk on foot upon a flat ground, breathe several hours
a day with a full breath, perform movements with his arms, keeping
them and his shoulders turned backward.
3. Expose himself to isolation, and take, what may be called, baths
of the sun, exposing the whole body to the action of the sun's rays
for a considerable time.
4. Drink wine, as claret or port; sugar it when it is too strong.
Suppress tea, for it increases perspiration.
5. Sleep in large rooms.
6. Wear hare's or cat's skin upon the breast, for they produce some
electricity.
7. Avoid every bent position of the chest.
8. Feed upon meat, fish, oysters or lobsters, and other substances
containing iodine.
9. Seek for an amelioration rather by hygiène than by physicking.
Consumption is a constitutional disease. Now a constitution cannot
be changed by physicking, it can be changed only by hygiène.
Consumption is more especial to fair races, and to cold countries.
So it must be treated by a residence in a warm country, and by means
tending to give the constitution of the brown race.
Algeria presents a great variety of sites, sea-shores, inlands, hills,
mountains, swamps, and sandy deserts. Every consumptive constitu-
tion can here find its special hygiène.
APPENDIX.
351
METEOROLOGICAL TABLES
Prepared for this Work (with Explanatory Notes) by M. BULARD, Director of the
Imperial Observatory at Algiers.
No meteorological documents on Algeria, ot any worth, can be
obtained; because no works which could render service to science,
have hitherto been published under the direction of persons who
understood meteorology.
Observations on the temperature have been made for years; but,
taken alone, are not of any use.
The Observatory at Algiers was instituted by Prince Napoleon in
1858, since which time astronomical, meteorological, and magnetic
observations have been made regularly and systematically.
The observations of humidity are of great importance, and the
Algerian Observatory is the first to possess these. They have been
registered during night and day, every hour and half hour of the
twenty-four hours.
It is a curious fact that the mean tempera-
ture of the air and of the year is about 17·0 centig.
""
""
of the springs
Mean declination of the compass
17.0
17.0
وو
or €3°
Fahr.
The average quantity of rain which falls in a year is about 28 inches.
The English figures from first to last are merely added to give an
idea of the French ones. They are accurate to the tenth of a degree,
or of an inch, but cannot be rendered more closely.
The given means are not those of the English figures, but of the
French, which will account for slight differences in the means of
tenths and of hundredths.
AN ABSTRACT FROM THE METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER
OF THE IMPERIAL OBSERVATORY OF ALGIERS.
LONGITUDE EAST OF GREENWICH, 12' 43'63".
Latitude NORTH, 36° 46′ 39·855″.
HEIGHT ABOVE THE SEA LEVEL, 651 feet.
The apparent discrepancies in the monthly means are owing, M. Bulard states, to the means being taken
from the French scale, and not from those of the English figures.
ABBREVIATIONS: C. Cloudy; F. Fine; VF. Very fine; R. Rain; S. Stormy; Si. Sirocco;
T. Thunder; Ts. Thunder-storm; W. Windy.
NOVEMBER, 1863.


AT 8 A.M.
AT NOON.
AT 5 P.M.


Thermo- Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
Cent. Fah. millim.
Thermo-
Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Cent. Fah. millim.
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
Thermo- Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
Cent. Fah. millim.
O
1
19.3
670 | 763 830
2 19.0
67 0 764 150
S.W.
S.W.
C.
3
18.5
65.0 769-870
W.
418-7 66·0 | 774′280
S.W.
5 17.0
63 0 772 030
N.W.
6
17.5 640
773 720
N.N.W. | F.
7 18.8 650
768-729
S.W.
8
16.3
610
768 030
S. W.
9
15 3
59′0 | 762·069
W.
10
15.5 60·0 | 759 298
W.
11
14·1570 | 761·813
W.
12
14.0
570 | 754-797
N.W.
13 12.5
550 | 758 810
S.W.
14120
54·0 | 764·908
S.W.
15 14.6 58.0
768 839
S.W.
16 16.0 610 769 068
17 16.5 620 768 350
S.W.
S. W.
18
14-859-0 | 768410
N.E.
19
14.1570 | 771·294
S.E.
20
13.5 560) 771.464
S. E.
25
21 15.1 59.0 | 771·519
22 17.5 64·0 | 768·986
23 14.0 57.0 765.000
24 17-4 63·0 | 764‍410
17.2 58:0| 766·610
S. E.
S.E.
S.W.
OOREREEREO REDREGGGGG GGGO
20 3 690 763-000
S.W.
20.5 690 763-990
W.
F.
18.3 650 | 771-190
N.
R.
F.
R.
18.5 650 772·920 W.
17.5 64 0772-920 | N.N.W. R.
18.0 650 771-030
17.5 64.0) 768-789
17.0 630 767-102
N.W.
W.
F.
S.W.
16.2 610 762-224
W.
16.0 61.0 760 386
W.
15 0 59 0761-953 W.N.W. C.
R.
14.0
57 0
754-787
N.W.
12.5 55 0 759 459
S.W.
13.0 560 766.135
S.W.
13.0 560 | 768-580
W.
13.4 56.0 769-029
W.
F.
14.0
58.0768.061
N.E.
F.
14.0 58.0
768 560
N.E.
14·1570
770-945
S. E.
F.
14157 0
771·344
N.E.
14.5 59.0
770.645
N. E.
14.5
S. S. E. F. 14.3 58.0 768.180
58.0764-960
E.
N.E.
14.0 580 | 764.670
S.W.
N.W.
R.
15.2
59 0 766 700
S.E.
26
14.3 590| 768:570
S. E.
C.
15-259 0 767 910
N.E.
27
15.259.0 |
15.2 590 767.840
S. E.
F.
15.6 600 | 767 470
N.E.
28151 59′0 | 765-700 }
N.E.
F.
15.5 600 765.000
29
15.0 59 0 763 200
S. W.
R.
15.3 600
760 860
N.
E.N.E.
30 14 6
570 | 762·300
S.W.
R.
15.3 600
763-260 N.N.W. C.
OFFEREDEGO OOREGOGGGG GGJEJUEGOJ
19.5 67 0 762.820
|
W.
R.
20.0 68.0 764-300
W.
C.
17.0
16.2
18·0 | 640 | 776·310 N.W. F.
178 640 773 340 | N.N.W. F.
17.5 640772·190 | N. N.W、| C.
17.1 630 770-190 N.W. C.
63 0 767-851
61.0765 655
W.
C.
N.E.
F.
16.0
610 | 759 188
W.
F.
15.0
59 0
761.703
N.W.
R.
14.7 580 759 149
13.5 56.0 | 756-437
12.2 540 760-746
12.5 55 0766-544
12.8 550 768 201
130 560 768 580
13.2 560 767-173
13.5 570 768.979
N.W.
C.
S.W.
S.
S. W.
R.
S. W.
F.
W.
F.
N.W. C.
N.E. VF.
N.E. F.
13.7 570 | 770-691
139 570 771-214
N.E.
F.
N. E.
F.
13.6 570 770·053
14.1 58.0 765.810
N.E.
F.
N.E.
F.
14.0 580 763-160
S. E.
F.
14.2
580
764-600
S.W.
C.
15 6
59 0
767 550
N.N.E. C.
15.0
59 0
767-500
N.E. C.
15 1
590| 766 540 N.E. C.
15.0
15.2
59 0 763·950 | N.N.E. | C.
59.0 | 759 460
N.E.
C.
15.0
59 0 764 300 | N.N.W. R.
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.
Thermo-
meter.
Thermo-
Barometer.
Barometer.
meter.
Mean Cent. Fah.
from
1 to 10 17 29 630
10 to 20 14:21 57-9
French English
millim. inches.
767·600 30.320 17.98 64.3
765-773 30.130 13.71 56.7
20 to 30 15 54 600 765 413 30.120 14.54 58.4
Cent. Fah.
O
о
French English
millim. inches.
767.36
Cent. Fah.
French English
millim. inches.
765 89
765.97
30.215 17:42 63.5
30.155 13:31 56.0
30.159 14:59 58.4
767.35
30.213
765.77
30.140
765.29
30.130
Mean
of the 1568 | 60·3 | 766 626 30.180
Month.
15:41 59'8
766.34
30.172 15.10 59.3
766.13 30.166
RAIN.
The quantity of rain which fell in November, 1864, amounted to 4'4916 inches in 16 hours 20 minutes.
Rain fell on the 1st, 4th, 7th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, 13th, 29th, and 30th. The greatest quantity fell
on the 12th; it amounted to 35'4 mil. or 1′38 in. in 7 hours. (A millimétre is equal to 0·03937
inches, or 38% of an inch.)
39
τόσο
HUMIDITY.
The mean degree of humidity for the month at 8 A.M. was 59 per cent.
>>
>>
"
at noon was 80
at 5 P.M. was 72
""
>>
>>
mean = 70 per cent.
APPENDIX.
353
AT 8 A.M.
DECEMBER, 1863.

AT NOON.
AT 5 P.M.
Thermo- Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
Thermo-
Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
Thermo-
Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
Cent. Fah. | millim.
Cent. Fah. millim.
Cent. Fah. | millim.
о
о
O
о
112.8 55.0 766 593
212.153·9 | 766 693
N.E.
C.
W.
F.
3 154 59-8 | 768 919
W.
F.
4
14 6
58.8
768 699
N.W.
R.
5 110
51.9
769 977
N.W.
6
12.3 54 2
768 181
7 13.1 55 8
769-827
N.N.W. R.
N.W.
8
11.152.0
768 829
N.E. R.
9
118 53 4
770 285
10
11·152·0 | 772-971
N.E.
N.E.
C.
F.
11
12 6 54 8
773 610
S. E.
C.
12 11 6
530
773 009
13 11.4 52.8
770-760
S.W.
W.
F.
F.
14 10.9 51.8
770-246
S.
F.
15 10.9 51.8 769 597 S.S.W. F.
16 10.6 51′2 | 769-279
S.W.
18
2002 22
17
9.2 48.8 764 269
S.W.
7.6 459 759 318
N. N. W.
19
5.5 42 0
94 490
760-597
764.838 | S.S. E.
S.W.
21 100 500 763 940
S.W.
8.6
478 765 896 W. N.W. R.
23
10 9
518 | 762 253 | E.N.W. R.
24
10 3
51 8 767 907
N.N.E.
25
9'0
48 8
770 047
S. W.
26 104
50.9
770-147
W.
27 88 480 767 672
W.
28
86 479
29
8.3 47.0
768 310
771·095
W.
30
9.6
49 7 779-518
S.W. F.
31 10 4 50.8 765 226
S. W.
JEERORORDE JEEEEOERRO ORZORROZEE A
161 610
766 750 | N.N.E. F.
14.0
|
57 9 766-760
E.
17.2 63.0
767 230
W.
VF.
145
58 2 767 560
W.
FW
16.6 62.0
768 630
W.
W.
15'0
150
590 | 767-310
W.
13.6 56 7
770-290
N.E.
C.
11.6
530 771-710
N.E.
118 537
769 650
N. N.W. C.W
116
|
530 767 940 | N. N. W. C.W
14.6 588
769 120
N.E. F.
132
559 | 769 660
N.W.
14.0
578
769 940
N.N.E. R.
13.2
55.9 769'020
N.E.
14.2 58.0
769 360
N.E.
F.
12.7
550 764-410
0764
N. E.
13.8 57.0
771 830
N.E.
C.
12.7
550 771-970
E. N.E.
15.3597
773·110
N.E.
VF.
124
54 8 772.710
N.E.
14.2 57 9
773 340 | N.N.E. | C.
12.9 55 S
771 920
S. W. F.
143 578 770-860
W.
150 59 0770-370 | S.S.E.
154
59 8
C.
13 6
567
769-770
768 640
S.S.W.
W.
13.0
55.8
763 090
S.W.
R.
60 430 769 220
N. N.W. R.
R.
C.
9.9498770 890
13.0 55.8764 940
S.W.
S.S.E.
133 560 767-230
96 49 8 765-380
123 542 | 762-890
S.W.
N.W.
N.W.
C.
113 528 768‍440 | N.N.E. | C.
10.3 504 770 800
JEEEEOEROO OROSI
13.0
55.8 | 772.960
N.W.
12.0
53.8 |
53 8 770-880
S. W
11.8
58.7769.760
W.
11.1
52.0 769-720
S.
11.3
52.4769'430
S.W.
12.0
539 768 040
W.
11·2
|
8.2
11 252 2760 550
56 420 769 100N. N. W. R.
46 8 761 930 S.W.
S.W.
117530
764 340
S.S.E.
C.
117 530
766 790
N. N. E.
R.
S.W.
R.
R.
F.
10.7 514
12.5 54 6767 420
125 546 | 768 830
769 330
N.W.
R.
9.7 49 6 764 320
97 49 6 764 290
49.6764-290 N.W.
10 250 3 768·230 | N.N.E.
10.0
500 770 560 S.W.
110 519 768 800
|
N. W.
N. N.W.
AZER ROOOM ORRRROORRO EES
R.
R.
R.
R.
F
W.
F.
100
500
766 550
N.N.W.
R.
W.
S.W. F. 14.2 578 771-710
S.W.
13.6 | 568 | 768 960
S.W.
F.
14 6 58 2 765 290
S.W.
E FER
F. 103
50 2
769'400
W.N.
F.
10.5
510
770 860
770-860
S.W. F.
101 502 767-760
|
S.W. F.
110 51.9 763 440
S.W. F.
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.
Mean Cent. Fah.
French English
millim. inches.
Cent.
Fah.
French
millim.
English
inches.
French
Cent. Fah.
millim.
English
inches.
from
о
O
о
O
1 to 10
10 to 20
20 to 31
12 53 550 | 769 096
9.97 | 49°8 | 767-752
9 53 493 768-678
30-275 14.72 58.8 769'59 30.298 13.03 55.6
30·234 12.73 55.0 769.30 30.288 10.79 51.8
30.267 12.26 54.0 768.10 30'240 10:38 50 8
768 905
30.295
767 671
767-457
30 209
30.200
Mean
of the 10 67 513 768 375
Month.
30.458 13.23 55.8 768.998
30.279
11.40 52.7
768 011
30.238
RAIN.
The quantity of rain which fell in December was 7 0762 inches in 55 hours.
Rain fell on the 3, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 17th, 18th, 21st, 22d, 23d, 24th, 25th, 26th, 27th.
The greatest quantity fell on the 18tli: viz. 775 mill. or 3'023 in. in 13 hours.
HUMIDITY.
The mean degree of humidity for the month at 8 A. M. was 84 per cent.
""
"
">
>>
at noon was 77
at 5 P.M. was 84
>>
"
A A
mean = 817 per cent,
354
APPENDIX.
AT 8 A.M.
اریم
JANUARY, 1864.

AT NOON.
AT 5 P.M.
Thermo- Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
Thermo-
Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
Thermo-
Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
Cent. Fah. millim.
Cent. Fah, millim.
Cent. Fah. millim.
О
O
о
о
123
10.4 50 9 763 850 | W.S.W. C.
2 10.8
51.4| 763·211
3
8.2 46 9
761.544
4
3.7 38.8
763-720
S.W. F.
N.W.
N.W.
R.
10
607000
5
34 38 2
767 921
S.E.
8.6 47.7
762-602
S.E.
9.0 48.2 763-950
N.E.
8 9.2 48.8
759-299
S.E.
9 9.6 49 2 759.199
S.W.
10.5
51.0
760-107
S. E.
11
11.4 52.7 | 762·003
N.E.
12
11.4
52.8 763 510
N.N.E.
|
14
13 7.5 45 8
11.1 520
15 8.3 47.0
16 9.2 48.8 771.044
770-406
769 069
E.
W.
769 897
S.W.
S.W.
17
11.5 52.7 | 770·336
N.
18
17.0 628 767 752
S.E.
22 22
19 9.0 48.2
768-560
S.E.
20
8.1 46 8
775-237
S.E.
21
6.7 440
774-328
8.4 47.1
773 021
S.E.
N. W.
23
9.4 490
774 069
S.W.
24
10 4 50 9
774-511
W.
25
100
500
772·910
N.
26
109 518
771-994
N.E.
27
9.3 48.9
772 021 N.N.E.
28
10.0
50.0
771.893
S.E.
2220
29
9.8
49 7
31
767-552 S.W.
30 7.3 45.2 764.927 N.W.
6.844-3766·614
S.W.
JEOREGOOOE OOFOFEO ORO GOOGGGGORO ö
13.0 55.8 763 600 W S. W.
13.0 55.8 763-221
W.
C. 108
C.W|| 12.0
514 763 860
W.
538 | 761 624
C.
N.W. C.W
9.2 48.8
761 804
N.W.
W.
7.0
44 8 761 056
N.W. C.W
3.1 378
764-569
N.W.
R.
9.7
38.8
766 315
N.W.
7.6 458
766 800
E. S. E.
F.
7.6
7.645'8
45 S
764.607
N.E.
12.6 54 8
761.933
E.S.E.
F.
9.6
49 2
761 944
N.E.
11.5
52.9
764 559
N.E. F.
14.1 57 8758 530
14.0 57.7 760-746
S.
S.W.
14.252.9
799.418
S. E.
13.4 56 2
C. 13.2 55.9
762-772
769 548
N.E.
N.N.E. F.
F.
11.6 530 770 266
E.
13.6 567 767-691
W.
10.0 50.0 | 770 376
S.W.
12.5 54.4 770-135 S.W.
12.8 550 771·284 | N.N.E. C.
15.3 59.6 766 265
S. E.
R.
10.6 510 769-767
S. E.
11.0 520 775 516
S.E.
10.3 503 | 774-059
S.E.
13.1 55.8 | 772-821
N.W.
11.6
530 774 219
S.
13 1
558|774·967 | W.N.W. C. 9.7 49.9
F.
13.0
558 772-382
136 567 772-023
N.N.E. F.
N.E.
13.4 56.2 772.373 N.E.
122 54.1
771-314
S.E.
10.5
50.9
765 246
S.W.
9.6 49 2
765 396
N.W.
GEGO JEGO ROOORE GÖÖÕE EÒ¯£E
10.1 50 1
762 273
N.E.
11.0
51.9
758 481
S.
110 519 | 761·215
118 530 759-750 E.N.E.
S.W.
12.0 538 762.991 N.E.
110
51.9
770-127
N.
9.6
49 2
768 640
E.
11.9
53 2
768.999
W.
10 6
510
771-434
W.
113
52.7 770-027
S.W.
11.5
13.4
52.9
|
770 825 | N.N.E.
56 2 764-967
9.3 48.9 771-504
S. E.
S.E.
8.2 46.9 774 836
S. E.
8.9 48.0 752.900
9.6 497 772.744
S.E.
N.W.
10.6 51.0
774-039
773 690
S.W.
N.
10.6 510
771-774
N.
11.2 52 2
771-774
N.E.
10.8
51.4
772-053
N.E.
10.2 504
770-177
S. E.
9.4 490 764 277
S.W.
6.9 448 765 806
W.
10.0 50.0 767 792
N.W. C.
8.2 469 766 864 | N.N.E.
5000¤£80 £202000000 #¨OREROORR O
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.
Thermo-
meter,
Barometer.
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.
Mean Cent. Fah.
from
1 to 10
10 to 20
20 to 31
о
French English
millim. inches.
8.3 47.0 762-540 30.12 11.3 52.5
9.8 49.7 768 781 30.270 12.4 54.3
9.0 48.9 771 723 30.371 11.9 53.9
Cent. Fah.
O
о
French English
millim. inches.
762.518 30'020 9.46 49'0
769.362 30.290 10.88 51.8
771 480 30.374 9.62 49.7
French
Cent. Fah.
English
millim.
inches.
762.113 30'005
769'935 30.310
775'923
30.538
Mean
of the
9.05 489 767 681 30.215 11.8 53.8
767.786
30.220
9.98 49.9
768.990
30.278
Month.
RAIN.
The quantity of rain which fell in January was equal to 2:565 inches in 40 hours.
The days on which rain fell were the 1st, 3d, 4th, 8th, 12th, 15th, 19th, 29th, 30th.
The greatest quantity fell on the 30th; it amounted to 118 in. in 14 hours.
HUMIDITY,
The mean degree of humidity of the month at 8 A. M. was 91 per cent.
"
at noon was 73
19
""
at 5 P.M. was 79
"}
""
mean 81 per cent.
AT 8 A.M.
Thermo- Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Cent. Fah. millim.
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
APPENDIX.
FEBRUARY, 1864.
AT NOON.
Thermo- Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Cent. Fah. millim.
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
AT 5 P.M.
Thermo-
Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Cent. Fah. | millim.
355


Wind.
Weather
and Rain.

о
O
12
7-245 0 769-000
N.E.
C.
10.2
50 2
769-620 N.N.E.
F.
7.8
46.0
46′0
768 681
N.E. F.
2
62 433
3
94 490 770 556
4.
96 493
767·267
769 568 | N.N.E. F.
N.W.
N.W. C.
91
489
770 269
N. N.E.
C.
7.5
45 9
770-058
N.E.
F.
R.
9.5 49.1
770-455
N.W. R.S.
80
469 769-279
N.W.
RSH
5
7.5
45 8
763 151
S. W.
C.
11.5 52.8
8.5 477
767 861
N.W. C.
10.0
500| 766 944
N.W.
C.
762.662
S.W. R.
8.0 46.9 761 786
N. W. C. W
6
6.0
42.9
761414
S.W.
C.
10.6 510
760 616
S.W. C.
6.6 44.0
759-467
N.
R.
7
50
41 0
761 045
S. W.
C.
80 468
761 903
W.N.W. C.
44 400
761-736
N.W.
R.
8
4 2
398
760 796
S.W.
RW
8.2
46.9
762-792 W. R.W
81
468
761 686
S. W.
R.W
9
66
44 0
757 645
W.N.W.RW
84
47 2
754 299 W.N.W.R.W
|
6.2
43 3
753 640
S.
R.W
10
8.6
47 4
758-530
W.
F.
12.5
54.7
758 650
758'650
W.
C.
11 2
519
756 165
W.
F.
11
12.8
550
753 211
N.W.
G.
14.0
578 755-837
N.W.
12 9.5 49 2 765 546
S.W.
F.
144 58 0766 135
580
N.W.
13
120
53'8 | 771 534
N.W.
F.
13.155.9 772.063
N.E.
14
10-150·1 | 773·201
N.E.
F.
13.6
56 8
773 261
773.261
N.E.
15
10 6 51·0 | 771·050
N.E.
F.
13.1
55.9
559
771 444
N.E.
16
9.5 | 49°2 | 770-501 | S.S.W. | C.
17
9.2 48.9 770-502
W.
18
13-255·9 | 760 605
W.
19
10 4 50·9 | 755·576
W
20
9.7 49.8 746 793
W.
SEROR
13.0
55.7769.618
W.
F.
150 59 0
764 418
W.
R.
13.9 57.0
769 $45
W.
C. 13.6 568
753-777
S.E.
R.
9.5
49 2
745 373
S. W.
21
10·0 | 50·0 | 753-550
S.W.
F.
14 5
58 3
753 889
S.W.
22 | 13.0
55 8 | 752·911|
S.W.
C.
13.0 55.9
753 338
S.W.
23 11.1
520 | 758 999
S.
F.Si
18.0 648
|
758'660
S. E.
GEEEEEEOOR EJE
G.
116 530
758-151
758 151
N.W.
F.
112 524
767-351
N.W.
110519
772 233
N.E.
11.2 522
771-904 | N.E.
114 52 8
115
770-327 N.N.E.
529 768 081 W.S.W.
12.6 548 | 763-131
W.
117 530 | 759-827
N.W.
JEGEGOGO
130 577 751-243 S.W. C.R
R.
F.
10.6
10 6
510
510
6.7 440 747-782 W.N.W. R.W
752 882 N.N.E.
755-107
N.W.
F.
16.0 60.9
758 460
S.
24 14:0 578 761 335
W.
C.
12.955'7
12.9 55 7
761 574
N.W.
R.
12.3 542 761 434
25
150
590 762 063
S. W.
R.
20 2 68 3
761-683
S.
C.
148 588
760 855
26
240
75 8 762-193
S.W.
C.
16.5 617
762-751
S.W.
C.
14.6
58 4
761 554
27
15.660 0| 760·376
S.W.
R.
18.2 649
759 773
N.N.W. C.
13.5
56.5
757-911
28
13.155.8757‍422 | N. N. E.
R.
13.6 568
755 316
E.N.E. M.
10.3
50 4
N.E.
N. N. E.
S.W.
N. N.E. S.T.
756-287 N. N. W. R.
29 130 55 7 760-446
S.W.
R.
14.6 584
763-759
W.
W.
12.2
540
764 807
W.
GROUROCRE
Thermo-
Barometer.
meter.
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.
Mean
Cent. Fah.
from
O
1 to 10
10 to 20
20 to 29
758.810
French English
millim. inches.
7·03 44.9 763-698 30.070 9.65 49'4
10-70 51-3763 852 30.075 13.32 56.0
14 31 57.9
29.875 15.72 60.2
Cent. Fah.
O
French
millim.
763'412
763-217
758.971
English
inches.
30.055 7.78 46.0
30.045 11.19 52.0
29.880 12.54 54.8
Cent. Fah.
French English
millim. inches.
O
762.944
30.038
763-003
30.040
758 810
29.877
Mean
of the
Month.
10.68 51.3 762.086 30.000 12.89 55.3 761.866
29.995
10:50
0 | 5:
51.0
761-585
29.985
RAIN.
The quantity of rain which fell in February was equal to 220 5 millim, or 8 600 in. in 53 hours.
The days on which rain fell were the 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th, 17th, 18th, 20th, 22d, 23d, 24th, 25th,
26th, 27th, 28th, 29th.
8 A. M. NOON.
5 P.M.
HUMIDITY.
1st to 10th
82.5
76.0
85.0
The mean degree of humidity from
10th to 20th
76.7
79.0
86.0
20th to 30th
76.0
68.0
87.0
Mean of the month
78.4
74.3
$8.3
A A 2
356
APPENDIX.
AT 8 A.M.
Thermo- Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Cent. Fal. millim.
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
MARCH, 1864.

AT NOON.
Thermo- Baro-
meter. meter.
French
Cent. Fah. | millim.
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
AT 5 P.M.



Thermo-
Baro-
meter. meter.
French
Cent. Fah. | millim.
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.

о
O
о
1
10.3
50 4 765 347 S.S.W. C.
17.6 638 765 155
S.E.
Si. C 15.6 60.0
763 669
S.E. Si.
11.3
52.5766 134 W
F.
17.5
63.7 | 766 802
N.W.
F.
132
55 8
765 765
N.E. D.
3
16.8
62.3 763 709
S.W.
F.
23 5
744 763-319
N.W.
F.
14.2
57 9
761483
N.E. F.
4
19.4
67.0759 465
S.S.W.
C.
23 6
74 6
758 197
S.S.W.
C.
23:574:3
756 254
S.W. C.
5 154
599
753 888
W.
C.W 173
63.2
755 534
W.
C.W 170 62 9
754 946
W. C.W
614.8
14 8
58 8
763 230
W.
F.
16.7 620
764-058
W.
F.W 126
54·4 | 764·008
W.
F.W
7
15.1
59 2
764 445
N.W.
8
23.3 73 S
760.124
W.
9
16.5
619
758-554
W.
10
13.9
13.9 57.2 763-450
Обізв
18 465 2
213
764·218 | N.N.E.
F.
14.4
58 0762 343
N.E.
F.
708
760 142
N.
F.
15.6
60.0
757 651
N.E.
F.
176 638
758 579
W.
C.
14.2 57.9 758 490
W.
C.
F.
11
15.2
15.2
59 3
767 562
12
123
544
768 340
13
115
52 8
764 349
W.
N.N.E. C. 14.7 588
N.E. C.W 12.9 55'8
N.E. C.W|| 120 | 53.9 | 763·799
15.5 600
764.577
W.
F.
13.3 57.0 765-007
W.
F.
769 258
N.E.
C.
13.0 560
768 639
N. N. E.
C.
767 422
14 112 522
764 389
N.W.
R.
12 1
53 9 764 708
N.E.
N.E.
N.W.
C.W 117 530
766 963
N.E.
C.W
C.W 12.0 | 53·8 | 763·759
N.E.
R.
C.
15 107 514 764-947
S.W.
16
17 13.6 568 760-326
118 534 | 763 310
S.W.
N.E.
18
13.9
57.1
57.1 758-770
W.
19
15 8
603 | 754-117
S.E.
20 | 13.2
13 2
|
55 8 751.913
S. E.
21
15 4
598
753-730
S.W.
22
137
138
756 686
S.W.
23
14 8
58 6
754 528
S.W.
24 14 0
57 9 756 434 W.N.W. C.
25 140
579 | 762.312
S.W.
26
15.5
600 760-813
S.W.
27 | 12.6
12.6
54.9
54.9748 380
W.
28
113
528 751.914
N.W.
29 123
541 | 756 335
W.
30 124 54 2 758 950
|
W.
31 14 2 578 763 131
N.W.
OEREER BORO &
12.7
550
763 889
S.W.
C.
16.6
61.9763·140
S.
16.0 60.9 759 897
16.8 62.0 | 758-689
N. E.
W.
19.0 669 | 753699
18.2 648 750 870
N.E.
S.W.
18.6 657 754 405
19.0 669 | 755 306
17.0 62.9 754 438
16.3 61.2 757 642
W.
W.
N.W.
W.
17.0 62.8 762-711
W.
18.0 648 759.216 S.W.
11.5 52.9
747-682
11.8 533 753 690
15.2 59 3 | 756 275
R.T 145 58 2 760 466
N
N.W.
W.
N.E.
158 60 7 764 518
N.
SERVER EEROZZO E
11.1 52.0 | 764 318
12.054 0| 762 931
13.5 56.3 761-819
N.W.
R.
S.W. C.
N.E. F.
14.5
13.7
58 2
56.7
758.779
N.E. F.
757-472
W.
C.
13.1 558
754 129
S.W.
C.
12.0 538
752.378
S.W.
R. T
14.6 58.3 | 754·109
W.
F.
15.0 59 0 753 609
W.
F.
13.0
558 | 754 468
N.W.
C.
13.1 559 757-211
W.
C.
13.8 57.0 762 053
W.
F.
14.5
58.2756·163
S.W.
R.
100 500
747 652
S.W. R.W
11.1 52.0
755'397
N.W.
W.
13.0 55.8
755 648
W. W.
131 55 9 760 307
N.W. C.
F. 12.3 54.2 | 745 485 N.N.W. F.
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.

Mean Cent. Fah.
from
1 to 10
10 to 20
20 to 30
о
о
15 67
12-93
13 60
French English
millim. inches.
602 761 8346 29.99
55.8761 8023 29.99
56 4 756 9082] 29.965
Cent. Fah.
о
о
18.90 66'0
15.10 59'2
15.89 60'4
French English
millim. inches,
762 0981 30.010 15.36 59'9
762-5371 29'985 12:36 54.4
756-1831 29.770 13.12 55.8
Cent. Fah.
French English
millim. inches.
O
Q
760.9616 29.960
761-1187 29'965
755-6617 29.750
Mean
of the 14 10 57.9 760 6940 29.945
Month.
16:42 61.4
761 0740 29.965 13.28 55.8 760-8067
29'950
RAIN.
The quantity of rain which fell in March was equal to 67'6 millim. or 2 C36 in. in 28 h. 30 m.
The days on which rain fell were the 12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, 26th, 27th, 29th, 30th.

8 A. M.
NOON. 5 P.M.
HUMIDITY.
1st to 10th
60.0
62.0
70.5
The mean degree of humidity from the
10th to 20th
83.5
76.0
86.0
20th to 30th
75.5
66.0
83.7
Mean of the month.
73.0
68.0
80.06
APPENDIX.
357
AT 8 A. M.
Thermo- Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Cent. Fah. | millim.
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
APRIL, 1864.

AT NOON.
Thermo- Baro-
meter. meter.
French
Cent. Fali. millim.
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
AT 5 P.M.


Thermo- Baro-
meter. meter,
French
Cent. Fah. millim.
Wind
Weather
and Rain.
о
о
O
о
о
о
1
13.6 56 8 768-610
2156 60·0 | 768·051
N
VF.
150
59 0
769-988
N.E. VF. 13.1
55 8
55 8
769 566
N.E.
W.
F.
20.2
68.3
767-911
W.
F.
17.2
630 | 766·544
W. F.
3180 64.8 | 765·885
S.
F.
18.0
648
764-674
S. E.
F.
15.0
59.0
59 0 765 436
N.E. F.
4
15.1 59.2 | 766 065
N.E.
C.
16.1 61.0
766 457
N. N. E.
R.
138
570 | 766-454
N.E. F.
5 14.0 57.9 766 706
N.E.
F.
16.7 62.0 | 767 081
N.E.
F.
15.0
59 0
765-995 E. N. E.
| | VF.
6
19.3 66'9 | 766·264
E.
F.
22.0 71.8 766.154
E.
F.
15.0
59 0
765-226
N.
7198 67·7 | 763 380 | E.S.E.
F.
21.5 70.8 762-751
N.E.
F.
16.0
60.9 761-823 | N.NE.
8150 59.0 | 760 645
N.E.
9
12.8 550 762.382
10 138 570 | 761·304
F
N.E. F.
N.E. F.
16.5 | 614 | 761·134
N.E. F.
14.0
57.7 | 760-710
N.E.
14.3 57.9 762-901
N.E.
16.3 61.4 761 454
N
11 15 0 59 0 761-624
E.S. E.
F.
15.0 590| 761 874
N.E.
12
14.2 57.9
760-616
N.E.
F.
16.3 61.4 760-506
N.E.
13
15.0 59.0 758.300
S. W.
C.
17.0 62.8
757-901
W.
14
13 0
55·9 | 759 346
W.
R.
15 8 60 8
759.923
W.
JOFF HEL
F.
11.5
52 7
52 7 762'085
N.E. F.
12.8
550
761-175
N.E.
13.7 567
760-756
N.E.
14.8 58.7
759.760
N E.
C. 11.5
52.9 758-320
W.
R.
14.3
57'S | 758-759
W.
SAGESGGGGG GGOOI
VF.
F.
F.
F.
F.
F.
F.
C.
C.
15
16.1
61.0 759 067
W.
W.
178 642
759 453
W.
W.
14.8
58.8 | 759-328
W
W.
16
16 8
62·3 | 759·857
N.
C.
18.5 65 6
759 777
N. N.E.
F.
15.6 | 600 | 758-903
N.E.
F.
17 19.0
668 759 812
S.W.
C.
19.1 668
760-066
N.
C.
17.5 63.7 | 760·026
N.
C.
18 153
59'7 | 760 802
N.E.
C.
16.1 610
760·995
N.E.
C.
136 567 761 873
N.E.
R.
19
14 9
58.8 762-851
W.
R.
16.0 60.9 762-681
W.
C.
14.5 58.2 761-893
W.
T. S.
20 124
54·3 | 761·813
W.
R.
14.257-8
761-624
W.
R.
14.1 559 | 761 SS3
W.
R.
21
15.2 593 762.706
22 19.8 67·6 | 760·775
23 224 72·3 | 762·510
24 180 64·9 | 756·450
N.W.
S. E.
S. E.
N.E.
25 16.1 610
26 15.1
59.2
756 062
761-536
S. E.
JEORE
C.
17.9 64 4| 762-581
N.W.
F.
15.2 59 3
761-623
N.E.
F.
F. 21.7 710 760-984
N.E.
F.
18.1 64-9 761-187
N.E.
F.
C. 24.2 75 8
761-724
N.E.
C.
196 62-2 | 760-251
N.E.
C.
R.
20.0 68.0
753-906
E.N.E.
C.
13·1 559 755 216 || N. W.
│R.T.
F.
18.0 64.9
756-673
N.E.
F.
14.7
58 7
S.W. C.
17.6 63 8
761 653
N.W.
C.
161
610 | 762-234
758 130 N.E.
N.W.
27 14 7
58 6 765 455
N.N. E. R.
17.7 640
766-18S
N.E.
C.
15.0
59 0
28 173
63.2 | 767 521
N.E. F.
173 632
766 923
N.E.
F.
16.0
60.9
766-264
765-615
N.E.
N.E.
29
18 5
30 15 4
65 6 | 764 298
594
763 170
N.E.
N.E.
F. 20.0 68.0
C. 17.1 62.9
763 876
N.E. F'.
173 632
763 115 N.
763 299
N.E.
C.
15.2 59 3
762-761
N.E.
ROZZEZ
R.
W.
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.

Mean Cent. Fah.
from
O
о
French English
millim. Inches.'
1 to 10 15.70 60 3 764 9292 30.115
10 to 20 15 17 59.1760-4088
20 to 30 | 17·25] 63·1 762·0483
Cent. Fal.
о
29.940
30·050
French English
millim. inches.
17.66 63.8 764.9505 30.115 14.34 57'S
16.58 61.4 7604490 29.940 14:44 58.0
19.15 66'S 761.7807 29.995 15.63 62.0
Cent. Fah.
French English
millim.
inches.
о
о
764 5114
30.100
760·1501
29.950
761 6396
29.995
Mean
of the 16.04 60.9 762.4621 30.020
Month.
17.79 64.0 762.3904
30.005 14.80 58.3
762'003
30.001
RAIN.
The quantity of rain which fell in April, 1864, was equal to 98 05 millim. or 3 S24 in. in 38 hours.
The days on which rain fell were the 13th, 17th, 18th, 19th, 20th, 24th, 25th, 26th, 27th.

HUMIDITY.
The Mean Degree of Humidity from
Mean of the Month
8 A.M.
NOON.
5 P.M.
{
1st to 10th
68.0
61.0
76.0
10th to 20th
76'4
77:0
88.0
20th to 30th
72.0
72.0
87.0
72.1
70.0
$3.99
358
AT 8 A.M.
Thermo- Baro-
meter. meter.
French
Cent. Fah. | millim.
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
APPENDIX.
MAY, 1864.


AT NOON.
Thermo-
Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Cent. Fah. millim.
Wind.
Weather
and Rain.
АТ 5 Р.М.

Thermo-
Baro-
meter.
meter.
French
Cent. Fah. millim.
Wind.
• Weather
and Rain.

O
о
12
1
14 5
582 | 765-216
N.E.
R.
17.5
634 765-435
2 17.0
62 8 767-711 | N.N.E.
C.
184
|
65 2 768 449
N.
N.E.
3
17.1
62.9 | 767 014
S.W. C.
215
4
20.5
69.0764.138
N.W. F
23.0
708 766 493
73-7764-235
W.N.W. C.
N.E.
5
215 709 763 358
N.E.
F
22.5 724 763-369
N.E.
625-277-3761-184
S. E.
F. 27.5 81.7
761-183
N.E.
7
240 75 8 760-120
S.W.
C.Si|| 22.0
C.Si 22.071.8
760-923
S.E.
8
22.2
72.0 | 758-278
S. E.
C. 27.6 81.5
757 262
S. E.
9
20 5
690
758 978
W.
C.
17.0 62.7 760-340
W.
10
17.5
638
762 870
W.
C.
20.4
|
68.8 763-170
W.
JOOFEE OOE
15.9
60.8765.725
N.E.
17.1 62.9
768 200
N.E.
19.0
66.9
765 485
W.
18.5
65 3 763 946
N.E.
19.5
67-2| 762.790
N.E.
22.9
71.9 759 463
N.E.
Si. C 21.8 71.3
759 325
N.E.
C. Si
17.6
638
758 119
W.
17.0 62.8
760-930
W.
18 8 659
762-442
W.
11
21.0 70.0
762.890
S.W.
F.
23.1
73.8
762.910
W.
C.
19.4 67.0
762.132
W.
12
19.2 668 763 867
W.
C.
20 2
684
764 454
W.
C. W
18.0 64'8
764 513
W.
13
189
660| 765 563 | W.N.W.
C.
20.5
69 0
69.0
765 579
N.W.
W.
18.7 658
765 425 | N. N.W.| F.
14
19.2
66 7766393
S.W.
F.
194
670
765.605
N.
F.
17.0 62.7 764 367
N.N.E.
15 20.2
68.3 764 603
S. E.
F.
23 3
74.0
764 425
16200
68.0 | 763·998
N.E.
F.
19.1
66.9
764 478
|
N.E. F.
N. N. E.
18.7 658 763-717
N.N.E. F.
17 20.0
680 764-659
S.E.
F.
19.0 668
764 894
N.E.
18
18.9 660 | 766 852
N.E.
F.
20.2 684
766-762
N.E.
19 21.3 704
766 243
S.E.
F.
24.2
759 765-828
|
N.E. F.
20
234 74 2
765-794
N.E.
F.
25 0
77 0
764-722 N.N.E.
GOGGG
F.
18.1
647 763-739
N.
C.
18 0
64 6
|
765 585
N.N.E. F.
F.
19.7
67.4
765-784
N.E.
20.6 69.0
764-782
N.E.
F.
20.9 694
763 462
N.
21 254 77.5
22 23.2 73.9
23 210 699
24 19.2 68.8
25 28.2 82.8 756 733
26 20.5 690 756 674
27 19.8 679 | 758 119
761 734
N.W.
F.
25 4
77.8
761-574
N.
F.
760.963
W.
C.
26 4 794
761 166
762·739
N.E.
M.
22.1719
|
762-221
760 126
N.E.
F.
214 708
759 655
S.W. F.
N.E. C.
N.E. F.
S.
S.W.
W. 22.8
C.Si 30.9 87.8
73.0
756 613
S.W.
757-267
S.W.
W.
C. 20.5 690
759.383
W.
28
22.6 72.8 762-800
29 24.7 76 4
S.W.
F. 25.1 77.2
765 100
764.252
N.E.
F
24.8 76.7
30
26.0
78.8
759 526
N.E.
F.
27.1 80.9
W.
763 635 N.E.
760.308 N.E.
F.
22.0718 760 558
23.0 73.7 761-504
20.268.3 | 760·937
19.4 67.0 758.209
C.Si 19.3 66.8756 863
W. 19.3 66.8 756.502
W.C 19.8 67.8 760 590
F. 22.0 72.0 764 472
F. 22.0 72.0
24.2 75 7761-232
N.
N.
N.E.
N.E.
W.
S.W.
W.
N.W.
762-051
N.E.
N.E.
31 31.0 87.9 763 166
W
W.
26.0 78.8 763.465 W.
W. 22.2 72.0 | 762-280
W.
OREEEEZROR EGG OORZGEES E
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.
Thermo-
meter.
Barometer.
Mean Cent. Fah.
from
о
1 to 10
10 to 20
20 to 31
French English
millim. inches.
20·00 68·0762-8867 30°030 21.74 71.0
20 21 68 5765 0862 30.120 21.40 70.8
23 78 74 8 760 3666 29.935 24.72 76.5
Cent. Fah.
O
French English
millim. inches.
763'0859
764 9657
766-6723
Cent.
30.045 18.72 65.8
30.115 18.91 66.0
29.945 21.21 70°2
Fah.
French English
millim. inches.
762'6465 30.025
764'3006 30.095
760-2978 29.935
Mean
of the
Month.
21.33 70 6762 8763 30.035 23'46
74.2
763.0472 30.045 19.61
67.3 762-4149 30.018
RAIN.
The quantity of rain which fell in May, 1864, was equal to 7.35 millim. or 0.287 in. in 8h. 15m.
The days on which rain fell were the 1st, 8th, 24th.
8 A.M.
NOON. 5 P.M.
HUMIDITY.
63.0
58.5
67.0
The mean degree of humidity from
61.0
53.0
71.0
61.0
55.0
72.9
Mean of the month
61'66
55.5
70.0
APPENDIX.
359
LIST OF NATIVE PLANTS PECULIAR TO
RANUNCULACEÆ.
Anemone palmata.
A. dentata.
Ranunculus xantholeucos.
R. rectirostris.
R. spicatus.
R. macrophyllus.
R. blepharicarpos.
R. flabellatus.
R. trilobus.
Delphinium orientale.
D. pentagynum.
D. Balansæ.
PAPAVERACEÆ.
Papaver obtusifolium.
FUMARIACEÆ.
Ceratocapnos umbrosa.
Sarcocapnos crassifolia.
Fumaria numidica.
F. longipes.
F. sarcocapnoïdes.
F. africana.
CRUCIFERÆ.
Sinapis geniculata.
S. circinata.
S. hispida.
Eruca stenocarpa.
E. setulosa.
Brassica Scopulorum Cosson.
B. Maurorum.
B. Gravina.
B. dimorpha.
B. teretifolia.
ALGERIA.
B. pinnatifida.
Moricandia suffruticosa.
Erucastrum leucanthum.
E. Cossonianum.
Enarthrocarpus clavatus.
Henophyton Deserti.
Hesperis ramosissima.
H. arenaria.
Lonchophora Capiomontana.
Malcomia africana.
Hussonia Ægiceras.
Erysimum grandiflorum.
Sisymbrium amplexicaule.
S. torulosum.
S. coronopifolium.
S. ceratophyllum.
S. cinereum.
S. erysimoïdes.
Braya Boissieri.
Notoceras canariense.
Arabis parvula.
A. pubescens.
Cossonia africana.
Savignya ægyptiaca.
S. longistyla.
Farsetia ægyptiaca.
F. linearis.
Alyssum atlanticum.
A. serpyllifolium.
A. cochleatum.
A. scutigerum.
A. clypeatum.
Meniocus linifolius.
Isatis Djurdjurœ.
Nasturtium Munbyanum.
Clypeola cyclodontea.
C. lybica.
Ionopsidium albiflorum.
I. acaule.
Iberis pectinata.
360
APPENDIX.
I. parviflora.
Biscutella frutescens.
Euclidium syriacum.
Anastatica hierochuntica.
Otocarpus virgatus.
Cordylocarpus muricatus.
Psychine stylosa.
Senebiera lepidioïdes.
S. violacea.
Lepidium glastifolium.
Bivonæa lutea.
Zilla myagroïdes.
Z. macroptera.
Muricaria prostrata.
Crambe reniformis.
Rapistrum Linnæanum.
Hussonia uncata.
Reboudia erucarioïdes.
CAPPARIDEÆ.
Cleome arabica.
R. Reuteriana.
R. villosa.
POLYGALEÆ.
Polygala oxycoccoïdes.
P. Munbyana.
FRANKENIACEÆ.
Frankenia thymifolia.
F. corymbosa.
CARYOPHYLLEÆ.
Gypsophila compressa.
Dianthus tripunctatus.
D. serrulatus.
Saponaria glutinosa.
S. tridentata.
S. cinerea.
S. hispida.
S. gibraltarica.
S. atlantica.
S. ramosissima.
CISTINEÆ.
S. arenarioïdes.
Cistus Clusii.
C. sericeus.
C. Pouzolzii.
C. heterophyllus.
Helianthemum Fontanesianum.
H. ellipticum.
H. papillare.
H. croceum.
H. viscarium.
H. sessiliflorum.
H. Caput Felis.
H. polyanthos.
H. Cahiricum.
VIOLARIEÆ.
Viola Munbyana.
RESEDACEÆ.
Reseda Duriæana.
R. eremophila.
R. arabica.
R. Aucheri.
R. subulata.
S. pteropleura.
S. reticulata.
S. succulenta.
S. patula.
S. rosulata.
S. pseudo Atocion.
S. fuscata.
S. lasiocalyx.
Lychnis macrocarpa.
Arenaria Munbyi.
A. spathulata.
Cerastium Boissieri.
C. atlanticum.
C. echinulatum.
LINEÆ.
Linum tenue.
L. corymbiferum.
L. asperifolium.
L. bicolor.
IL. Munbyanuт.
L. grandiflorum.
L. Decumbens.
L. Lambessanum.
APPENDIX.
361
MALVACEÆ.
Malope hispida.
M. stellipilis.
M. tripartita.
Malva Egyptia.
Lavatera Olbia.
L. flava.
L. mauritanica.
Althea longiflora.
HYPERICINEÆ.
Hypericum afrum.
H. perfoliatum.
GERANIACEÆ.
Geranium atlanticum.
Erodium hymenodes.
E. Munbyanum.
ZYGOPHYLLEÆ.
Fagonia sinaica.
F. glutinosa.
F. latifolia.
F. cretica.
F. arabica.
Zygophyllum cornutum.
Z. album.
Z. Geslini.
RUTACEÆ
Haplophyllum tuberculatum.
Peganum Harmala.
Ulex africanus.
U. Webbianus.
Erinacea pungens.
Calycotome spinosa.
C. intermedia.
Retama Ratam.
R. Bovei.
S. ferox.
Genista quadriflora.
G. umbellata.
G. microcephala.
G. capitellata.
G. Sahara.
G. spartioïdes.
G. numidica.
G. Durici
G. tricuspidata.
G. erioclada.
G. ramosissima.
G. cephalantha.
Argyrolobium Linnæanum.
A. grandiflorum.
A. uniflorum.
Adenocarpus umbellatus.
A. decorticans.
Ononis ramosissima.
O. lingulata.
O. cuspidata.
O. villosissima.
O. serrata.
O. euphrasiafolia.
O. rosea.
O. hispida.
O. laxiflora.
O. pendula.
RHAMNEÆ.
Rhamnus olooïdes.
TEREBINTHACEÆ.
Pistacia atlantica.
LEGUMINOSÆ.
Spartium Balansæ.
S. biflorum.
O. biflora.
O. incisa.
Anthyllis numidica.
A. polycephala.
A. tragacanthoïdes.
A. hamosa.
Medicago secundiflora.
M. plagiospira.
M. corrugata.
M. lævis.
Trigonella anguina.
T. uniflora.
Melilotus speciosa.
M. parviflora.
362
APPENDIX.
་
M. sulcata.
Trifolium Jaminianum.
Lotus parviflorus.
L. hispidus.
L. cytisoïdes.
Ludovicia Kremeriana.
Astragalus tenuifolius.
A. leptophyllus.
A. chlorocyaneus.
A. scorpioïdes.
A. annularis.
A. biflorus.
A. trimorphus.
A. corrugatus.
A. geniculatus.
A. falciformis.
A. Gombo.
A. lanigerus.
A. incurvus.
A. nummularioïdes.
Psoralea dentata.
P. plicata.
Vicia altissima.
V. polyphylla.
V. atropurpurea.
V. monanthos.
V. calcarata.
V. biflora.
V. Monnardi.
V. erviformis.
Lathyrus tingitanus.
L. luteus.
Ebenus pinnata.
Coronilla pentaphylla.
Securigera atlantica.
Hippocrepis Salzmanni.
H. bicontorta.
Hedysarum humile.
H. aculeolatum.
H. pallidum.
H. Aexuosum.
H. carnosum.
H. capitatum.
H. Perrauderianum.
H. Naudinianum.
Onobrychis argentea.
O. venosa.
ROSACEÆ.
Poterium Durici.
Cotoneaster Fontanesii.
Pyrus longipes.
HALORAGEÆ.
Serpicula numidica.
LYTHRARIEÆ.
Peplis hispidula.
Lawsonia inermis.
TAMARISCINEÆ.
Tamarix africana.
T. bounopæd.
T. pauciovulata.
T. brachystylis.
T. Balansæ.
F. articulata.
PARONYCHIEÆ.
Corrigiola telephiifolia.
Herniaria Fontanesii.
H. hebecarpa.
Paronychia Cossoniana.
P. aurosiaca.
Gymnocarpon decandrum.
Pteranthus echinatus.
CRASSULACEÆ.
Sedum cæruleum.
S. hispidum.
Umbilicus horizontalis.
Pistorinia intermedia.
P. Salzmanni.
FICOIDEÆ.
Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum.
Aizoon canariense.
Reaumuria vermiculata.
R. stenophylla.
Nitraria tridentata.
APPENDIX.
363
SAXIFRAGEÆ.
Saxifraga atlantica.
E. dichotomum.
E. Bovei.
S. globulifera.
S. spathulata.
S. Carpetana.
UMBELLIFERÆ,
LORANTHACEÆ.
Arceutholobium Oxycedri.
CAPRIFOLIACEÆ.
Ammodaucus leucotrichus.
Lonicera canescens.
Daucus maximus.
D. hispidus.
D. parviflorus.
D. aureus.
D. grandiflorus.
D. laserpitioïdes.
D. alatus.
D. gracilis.
D. crinitus.
D. glaberrimus.
D. setifolius.
Caucalis bifrons.
Torilis leucotricha.
Eleoselinum meoïdes.
Laserpitium gummiferum.
L. thapsioïdes.
Deverra scoparia.
D. chlorantha.
Selinopsis fœtida.
S. montana.
Seseli atlanticum.
Ferula Tingitana.
F. sulcata.
Anthriscus mollis.
Enanthe anomala.
Bupleurum Balansa.
B. oligactis.
B. acutifolium.
B. montanum.
B. plantagineum.
B. gibraltaricum.
Hohenackera buplevrifolia.
H. polyodon.
Pimpinella lutea.
Carum incrassatum.
C. mauritanicum.
Cachrys peucedanoïdes.
Eryngium Barrelieri.
E. ilicifolium.
E. triquetrum.
RUBIACEÆ.
Putoria brevifolia.
Asperula hirsuta.
Galium ellipticum.
G. serotinum.
G. Tunetanum.
G. brunneum.
G. petræum.
G. glomeratum.
G. Bovei.
Callipeltis Cucullaria.
VALERIANEÆ.
Centranthus macrosiphon.
Valerianella fallax.
V. chlorodonta.
DIPSACEÆ.
Cephalaria syriaca.
Scabiosa parviflora.
S. semipapposa.
S. Camelorum.
S. rutafolia.
COMPOSITÆ.
Bellis atlantica.
B. rotundifolia.
Nolletia pulicarioïdes.
N. chrysocomoïdes.
Conyza pulicarioïdes.
Gymnarhena micrantha.
Rhanterium adpressum.
R. suaveolens.
Inula crebrifolia.
I. graveolens.
364
APPENDIX.
I. arabica.
Francœuria laciniata.
F. crispa.
Asteriscus pygmæus.
Anvillea radiata.
Cladanthus arabicus.
C. halimifolius.
C. pedunculatus.
Rhetinolepis lonadioïdes.
Anthemis Boveana.
Anacyclus Pyrethrum.
A. pedunculatus.
A. linearilobus.
Ormenis aurea.
Achillea leptophylla.
Leucanthemum Fontanesii.
Pyrethrum fuscatum.
P. Gayanum.
P. Maresii.
P. macrocephalum.
P. macrotum.
P. paludosum.
Chlamydophora pubescens.
Plagius grandiflorus.
P. virgatus.
Helichrysum Fontanesii.
Gnaphalium muscoïdes.
G. leysseroïdes.
Filago Durici.
Senecio atlanticus.
S. Decaisnei.
S. leucanthemifolius.
S. coronopifolius.
S. humilis.
S. giganteus.
S. linifolius.
S. Balansæ.
S. Gallerandianus.
S. Auricula.
Calendula suffruticosa.
C. stellata.
C. Balansæ.
C. Monnardii.
C. algeriensis.
Othonna cheirifolia.
Echinops castaneus.
E. strigosus.
E. Bovei.
Cardopatium corymbosum.
Carlina involucrata.
C. corymbosa.
C. racemosa.
C. gummifera.
C. Fontanesii.
C. macrophylla.
Atractylis cæspitosa.
A. flava.
A. microcephala.
A. prolifera.
Amberboa Lippii.
A. micractis.
A. crupinoïdes.
Microlonchus Durici.
M. Delestrei.
M. Clusii.
Centaurea Tagana.
C. africana.
C. Tougourensis.
C. vesceritensis.
C. Balansæ.
C. eriocephala.
C. nana.
C. Parlatoris.
C. sempervirens.
C. involucrata.
C. parviflora.
C. furfuracea.
C. ferox.
C. dimorpha.
C. algeriensis.
C. Phæolepis.
C. infestans.
C. fragilis.
C. omphalotricha.
C. omphalodes.
C. microcarpa.
Onobroma helenioïdes.
Carduncellus eriocephalus.
C. atlanticus.
C. rhaponticoïdes.
C. atractyloïdes.
C. multifidus.
C. calvus.
C. pectinatus.
Silybum eburneum.
Galactites Durici.
G. mutabilis.
Onopordum macracanthum.
APPENDIX.
365
Rhaponticum acaule.
Carduus macrocephalus.
C. Balansa.
C. Spachianus.
C. algeriensis.
C. pleracanthus.
C. leptocladus.
C. numidicus.
C. arenarius.
Picnomon Acarna.
Notobasis syriaca.
Cirsium giganteum.
C. echinatum.
Scolymus grandiflorus.
Kolpinia linearis.
Catananche arenaria.
C. montana.
C. cæspitosa.
Tolpis altissima.
Hypochæris Salzmanniana.
Seriola lævigata.
Leontodon Balansæ.
L. helminthioïdes.
Kalbfussia Salzmanni.
Spitzelia cupuligera.
S. radicata.
Tourneuxia variifolia.
Urospermum picroïdes.
U. Dalechampii.
Scorzonera pygmæa.
Helminthia Asplenioïdes.
H. Balansæ.
Barkhausia suberostris.
B. amplexicaulis.
Picridium tingitanum.
Zollikoferia resedifolia.
Z. Candolleana.
Z. angustifolia.
Z. quercifolia.
Z. longiloba.
Sonchus mauritanicus.
S. divaricatus.
CAMPANULACEÆ.
Jasione glabra.
J. Bover.
Campanula Kremeri.
C. mollis.
C. atlantica.
C. trachelioïdes.
C. alata.
C. numidica.
C. filicaulis.
Trachelium cæruleum.
ANDROSACE.
Cyclamen africanum.
Anagallis collina.
A. platyphylla.
OLEACEA
Fraxinus dimorpha.
ASCLEPIADEÆ.
Dæmia cordata.
Boucerosia Munbyana.
Apteranthes Gussoniana.
Stapelia hirsuta.
GENTIANEÆ.
Chlora grandiflora.
CONVOLVULACEÆ.
Convolvulus supinus.
C. suffruticosus.
C. mauritanicus.
C. undulatus.
C. geniculatus.
Ipomea sagittata.
BORRAGINEÆ.
Borago longiflora.
Echium grandiflorum.
E. flavum.
Echiochilon fruticosum.
Nonnea nigricans.
N. micrantha.
N. phaneranthera.
Anchusa lanata.
Onosma echinata.
Lithospermum callosum.
Arnebia decumbens.
Alkanna orientalis.
366
APPENDIX.
Echinospermum patulum.
E. Vahlianum.
Cynoglossum clandestinum.
Solenanthus lanatus.
Mattia sp.
Megastoma pusillum.
SOLANEÆ.
Lycium afrum.
Withania frutescens.
Physalis somnifera.
SCROPHULARIEÆ.
Celsia cretica.
C. laciniata.
C. betonicæfolia.
Linaria scariosa.
L. elatinoïdes.
L. lanigera.
L. fruticosa.
L. aparinoïdes.
L. tingitana.
L. viscosa.
L. reticulata.
L. spartea.
L. bipartita.
L. micrantha.
L. Munbyana.
L. atlantica.
L. marginata.
L. reflexa.
L. Aava.
L. virgata.
L. laxiflora.
L. flexuosa.
L. minor.
Anarrhinum pedatum.
A. fruticosum.
Scrophularia sambucifolia.
S. capillipes.
S. lævigata.
S. hispida.
S. Duricio
S. Deserti.
Eufragia viscosa.
Orobanche Ritro.
O. media.
O. fætida.
Phelipea ægyptiaca.
P. violacea.
P. mauritanica.
P. lutea.
Ceratocalyx macropelis.
LABIATE.
Ballota hirsuta.
Origanum floribundum.
O. atlanticum.
Thymus hirtus.
T. lanceolatus.
T. Zattar.
T. Fontanesii.
T. capitatus.
T. ciliatus.
T. numidicus.
T. Guyonii.
Micromeria græce.
M. inodora.
M. microphylla.
Calamintha candidissima.
Clinopodium Munbyanum.
Salvia tingitana.
S. argentea.
S. phlomoïdes.
S. bicolor.
S. algeriensis.
S. Balansæ.
S. ægyptiaca.
S. lanigera.
S. Jaminiana.
Nepeta algeriensis.
N. tuberosa.
N. reticulata.
N. rosea.
Brunella algeriensis.
Saccocalyx satureioïdes.
Sideritis incana.
S. Guyoniana.
Marrubium Deserti.
Betonica algeriensis.
Stachys Durici.
S. Mialhesii.
S. arenaria.
S. Guyoniana.
S. marrubifolia.
APPENDIX.
367
S. brachyclada.
Phlomis mauritanica.
P. floccosa.
P. Bovei.
Teucrium pseudo-scorodonia.
T. mauritanicum.
T. resupinatum.
T. ramosissimum.
T. albidum.
T. bracteatum.
VERBENACEÆ.
Lippia nodiflora.
PLUMBAGINEÆ.
Goniolimon tataricum.
Statice sinuata.
S. Bonduellii.
S. Thouinii.
S. Durixi.
S. oxylepis.
S. cyrtostachya.
S. Gougetiana.
S. spathulata.
S. globulariafolia.
S. gummifera.
S. cymulifera.
S. virgata.
S. dictyoclada.
S. asparagoïdes.
S. echioïdes.
Limoniastrum Guyonianum.
Bubania Feei.
Armeria allioides.
A. plantaginea.
PLANTAGINEÆ.
Plumbago syrtica.
P. ovata.
P. ciliata.
P. serraria.
P. macrorhiza.
P. mauritanica.
SALSOLACEÆ.
Oreobliton thesioïdes,
O. chenopodioides.
Atriplex parvifolia.
Obione coriacea.
Kali arabicum.
Halostachys perfoliata.
Halocnemum strobilaceum.
Suæda vermiculata.
Traganum nudatum.
Caroxylum tetragonum.
Salsola tetrandra.
S. longifolia.
Noxa spinosissima.
N. aretioïdes.
Anabasis articulata.
A. alopecuroïdes.
Cornulaca monacantha.
AMARANTACEÆ.
Achyranthes argentea.
Arva javanica.
Polycnemum Fontanesii.
POLYGONEÆ.
Calligonum comosum.
Rumex induratus.
R. thyrsoideus.
R. tingitanus.
Emex spinosus.
Polygonum equisetiforme.
THYMELEÆ.
Passerina nitida.
P. virgata.
P. microphylla.
P. virescens.
SANTALACEÆ.
Osyris quadripartita.
Thesium humile.
ARISTOLOCHIEÆ.
Aristolochia Fontanesii.
A. altissima.
368
APPENDIX.
EUPHORBIACEÆ.
Andrachne telephioïdes.
Crozophora verbascifolia.
Euphorbia globulosa.
E. mauritanica.
E. paniculata.
E. biumbellata.
E. bupleuroïdes.
E. cornuta.
E. Guyoniana.
E. luteola.
E. calcarea.
E. calyptrata.
URTICEÆ.
Forskalea tenacissima.
Parietaria mauritanica.
CUPULIFERÆ.
Quercus Mirbeckii.
Q. Pseudo-Robur.
Q. pseudo-coccifera.
Q. Ballota.
SALICINEÆ.
Salix ægyptiaca.
S. pedicellata,
CONIFEREÆ.
Cedrus Libani.
Juniperus thurifera.
E. græca.
Ephedra alata.
E. fragilis.
E. altissima.
Colchicum bulbocodioïdes.
Erythrostictus punctatus.
LILIACEÆ.
Scilla Aristidis.
S. undulata.
S. fugax.
S. pulchella.
S. obtusifolia.
S. fallax.
S. parviflora.
S. anthericoides.
S. villosa.
S. lingulata.
Ornithogalum sessiliflorum.
O. arabicum.
Gagea mauritanica.
G. chrysantha.
G. circinata.
G. polymorpha.
Allium margaritaceum.
A. odoratissimum.
A. trichocnemis.
A. Duricanum.
Uropetalum serotinum.
Muscari atlanticum.
M. parviflorum.
M. ciliatum.
Phalangium algeriense.
Anthericum bicolor.
Asphodelus luteus.
A. pendulinus.
A. acaulis.
A. microcarpus.
SMILACEÆ.
Asparagus altissimus.
Smilax mauritanica.
Callitris quadrivalvis.
ALISMACEÆ.
Damasonium Bourgoi.
COLCHICACEÆ.
Merendera filifolia.
IRIDEÆ.
Crocus reticulatus.
Iris filifolia.
I. juncea.
I. stylosa.
I. scorpioïdes.
Gladiolus byzantinus.
APPENDIX.
369
AMARYLLIDEÆ.
Narcissus Clusii.
N. pachybolbus.
Pancratium collinum.
ORCHIDEÆ.
Serapias nivea.
Orchis Munbyana.
O. saccata.
0. patens.
O. longicornu.
O. elata.
O. atlantica.
POTAMEÆ.
Potamogeton contortus.
AROIDEÆ.
Biarum Bovei.
Arisarum simorrhinum.
JUNCEÆ.
Juncus salinus.
J. striatus.
J. foliosus.
J. valvatus.
Luzula græca.
CYPERACEÆ
Cyperus badius.
C. fascicularis.
Carex Mauritanica.
GRAMINEÆ.
Phalaris cœrulescens.
Panicum obtusifolium.
P. Numidianum.
P. Teneriffa.
Pennisetum ciliare.
P. asperifolium.
P. dichotomum.
Pennicillaria spicata.
Hemarthria fasciculata.
Andropogon annulatus.
A. laniger.
Anthistiria glauca.
Agrostis capillaris.
Stipa barbata.
S. gigantea.
S. parviflora.
S. tortilis
S. tenacissima.
Aristida pungens.
A. ciliata.
A. plumosa.
A. obtusa.
A. Adscensionis.
Eleusine Egyptia.
Tetrapogon villosum.
Spartina juncea.
Pappophorum brachystachyum.
Ammochloa pungens.
A. subacaulis.
Avena eriantha.
A. longiglumus.
A. clauda.
A. hirsuta.
Kæleria Balansæ.
K. hispida.
Arundo altissima.
A. festucoïdes.
Cynosurus Crista Galli.
C. elegans.
Melica pyramidalis.
Glyceria tenuifolia.
Poa atrovirens.
P. geniculata.
Dactylis repens.
Bromus Alopecurus.
Festuca triflora.
F. coerulescens.
B B
F. interrupta.
F. Alopecuros.
F. geniculata.
F. cynosuroïdes.
F. Pectinella.
F. Hemipoa.
F. divaricata.
F. memphitica.
F. Salzmanni.
F. Lolium.
F. tuberculosa.
370
Hordeum crinitum.
APPENDIX.
1. Hystrix.
I. Durioi.
Triticum hordeaceum.
Ægilops ventricosa.
EQUISETACEÆ.
Equisetum ramosissimum.
ISOETEÆ.
Isoëtes adspersa.
I. velata.
1
MARSILEACEÆ.
Pilularia minuta.
FILICES.
Cheilanthes odora.
Notochlæna vellea.
Asplenium palmatum.
Pteris lanceolata.
These plants "spéciales à l'Algérie," have been marked for me as
such by M. Durando, botanist at Algiers, from the "Catalogus Planta-
rum Algériensium," published by M. Munby in 1859, and from his
subsequent "Supplementum Catalogi," which rank as the most perfect
lists extant on the subject. The botanical world will soon, however,
be gratified by the appearance of another, more extensive and com-
plete; M. Durieu de Maisonneuve, Directeur du Jardin Botanique
de Bordeaux, having been charged by the French Government to
publish, in conjunction with Dr. Cosson, author of the "Flore Pari-
sienne,” a folio edition of the classified Flora of Algeria.
N.B.-A larger Catalogue might be given of those common also to
Spain and Sicily, though unknown in England and France. These,
however, are designedly excluded. It will be sufficient here to quote
M. Munby's statement that the Flora of Algeria is intimately related
to that of the middle of Spain, and that certain species are found in
common in these two countries which are not met with elsewhere;
such as the Helianthemum Caput-Felix, Adenocarpus decorticatus, and
several others.
APPENDIX.
371
ANALYSIS OF THERMAL AND MINERAL SPRINGS.
An analysis of some of the thermal and mineral waters, to which
allusion has been made, may possess an interest for medical readers.
The following are quoted by M. Piesse, as given by M. le Dr.
Lelorrain.
The saline springs of Hammam-Rir'a.
1,000 grammes of water contain-
Chloride of sodium
Chloride of magnesium
Sulphate of soda
•
Sulphate of magnesia
Sulphate of lime
Carbonate of lime
Carbonate of magnesia
Total
•
:}
Gr.
0·900
:}0-100
1.350
:}
} 0:
0.240
2.590
Analysis of the adjacent iron waters (hot) which flow out of the
ground vertically, in ten or twelve small jets, at a temperature of from
69° to 75°.
Chloride of sodium
Water, 1,000 gr.
Gr.
0.5236
Sulphate of lime
0.8266
Sulphate of magnesia
Sulphate of soda
Carbonate of lime.
Carbonate of magnesia
0.2726
0.4280
0.2866
0.0500
Sulphate of soda
•
0.2746 (sic.)
Silica
0.0066
Oxide of iron, and traces of phosphate
0.0266
Organic matter.
traces.
Total
2.7042
In close proximity are springs of iron waters (cold). The taste of
these acidulated gaseous waters is said to resemble those of Seltzer.
372
APPENDIX.
1,000 grammes contain-
Chloride of sodium
Chloride of magnesium
•
Sulphate of lime
Sulphate of magnesia.
Sulphate of soda
•
Carbonate of ammonia
Carbonate of lime .
Gr.
0.1957
0.1850
•
0.7828
:}
}0.5570
traces.
Carbonate of magnesia
0.8070
Carbonate of strontia .
}
0.0015
0.0300
Ochreous deposits.
Total
2.5590
It will be well perhaps to let M. le Dr. Bertherand, who has
written so'fully on "l'Etude des Eaux Minérales de l'Algérie," speak
for himself:
"L'hiver n'existe pas en Algérie, et particulièrement sur tout ce
littoral délicieux, où elle développe plaines, et côteaux, entre l'Atlas,
et la Méditerranée. On laisse bien loin Nice, Hyères, et jusqu'aux
dernières côtes d'Espagne, et d'Italie. La transformation du climat est
complète.
"Cherchez un peu dans ces gorges délicieuses de l'Atlas, vous y
trouverez les succursales de Baréges, de Bagnères, de Vichy, de ɔm-
bières, de Spa, de Sedlitz, de Pullna; debarquez à Alger, passer la
Mitidja, et vous y êtes."
TABLE showing comparative ALTITUDES of the chief Towns in ALgeria.
Feet above the level of the sea.
Algiers, from 1 to 464 ·
Larghaout
2,437
Oran
1 318
Millianah
2,925
""
""
Constantine.
2,080
Mostagem
341
Bône
114
Mascara
1,901
Bougie
88
Orleansville
472
Blidah
845
Setif
3,575
Medeah
2,990
Tlemcen.
2,600
LONDON R. CLAY, SON, AND TAYLOR, PRINTERS, BREAD STREET HILL.

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