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O'er the Atlantic, 
 
 OR 
 A JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO AND 1 1^^0M 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 / 
 
 \G71nly1n lorivcrth Givynn^ 
 
 A (;RA1>111C, IXTliRESTIXG AND HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF PIACKS 
 AND FA'ENTS, EMBRACING PORTIONS OF 
 
 [^EXGT.AXD, IkELAND, SCOTLAND, WaT.KS, FraXCK, 
 
 x'Vnd the Caxadas. 
 
 Y I.yfr Lwii Leb o'l ll;ifur hir.^gfn'^yl O I 
 Ainryw geinion cj'wir ; 
 Vndo ceir liaoes eirn-ir, » jk^l^g 
 
 Fer a thf?" dms for a lUir. 
 
 — lor.o \ 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 TUr.IilSIlED AND SOI.D FOR THE AL'JIlUR \\\ 
 
 THEfAMERICAN NEWS COMPAN\'. 
 
 Xos. ig &: 2T Nassau Stret-t. 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by 
 
 W. E. WHYTE, 
 
 In the office of tlie Congressional' Librarian, at Washing- 
 ton. D. C. 
 
 .Y7 b^ 
 
 [THE LIBRARY 
 iQr CONGRESS 
 
 LfASBINGTON 
 
 TrMrKBANCK Pathjot Pi;i>t, 
 
 ^ ITICA, Wf Y. 
 
To THE AmEI^ICAN CiTIZE 
 
 N 
 
 THE MEMBERS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 '^PITTSTON CALEDONIAN CLUB," 
 
 PITTSTON, PA. 
 
 AS CLANSMEX, AND IN REMEMBRANCE OF THE KIND HOSPI- 
 TALITY EXTENDED TO HIM BY THE CLUB ON HIS 
 RETURN FROM EUROPE, THIS BOOK IS, WITH 
 PROFOUND RESPECT, 
 
 DEDICATED, 
 
 BY THE 
 
 AUTHOR 
 
1 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 'I'hc author lie introduces liimscll Is proud of liis 
 nativitv His birth The promise of a noble Lord — It 
 avails him nothing — Death of his father — His mother 
 An only leg^acy — The wolf is kept from the door — The 
 last of his father's race — Resides with his grandmother — 
 Indulgence — " Sparc the rod and spoil the child" — Don't 
 believe in it — Kindness, love and good advice — Hirch 
 rods — Chastising children — Education — In a lawyer's 
 office — In a mercantile wa}- — In a ship builder's yard — 
 Don't like either — Prefers " A life on the ocean wave, a 
 home on the rolling deep" — As an apprentice boy on 
 board ship — Feelings on embarking — Regret, shame and 
 fear — Outward bound — The pilot — A mother's tears — 
 " (io ahead slow" — A sailor in dress, if not in experience 
 — A mother's last farewell — A full heart — Tears — Sea 
 sickness — Wishes he was ashore — Make a better soldier 
 than a sailor — A week in purgatory — At sea — A poor 
 appetite — All right — St. Jago de Cuba — Yellow fever — 
 Homeward bound — Yellow fever again — Deaths at sea 
 — A mournful sight — Arrival home — Every inch a sailor 
 — The past buried in oblivion — The pride and envy of 
 his playmates — Sails to the four quarters of the globe — 
 Went in through the hawsepipe and came out through the 
 
vi Contents. 
 
 cabin window — Is an old salt — Marriage — Abandons a 
 sailor's life — Fills various occupations on terra finna — 
 Emigrates to this country — Making and keeping money 
 two different things — He embraces an opportunity — 
 Decides to go to Europe — Diaries and a diary — Leaving 
 liome — Arrival in New York — Introduces " C). T. A." 
 
 LETTERS I AND II. 
 
 ' SEA JOrRNAL. 
 
 Outward bound — Sandy Hook — A head wind — A strong 
 Northeaster — A polite ship — Sickly tributes — A good 
 rneal — Sorrow — Death is preferable — A change — Unsea- 
 sonable weather — Sociable officers — A mixed company 
 An old friend — An idol — System — Shuffle — Divine 
 service — A Scotch piper — A fair wind — All sail set — 
 Signalizing a ship on the banks — Cod fishing — A 
 second attack — Misses an overcoat — Ship's latitudes — 
 — Difference in time — Politics and war — Just the thing — 
 Beautiful twilight — " Immortality of the soul" — Too deep 
 — Sea gulls — A testimonial — Land oh ! — The pilot — 
 Moville — The parting — Loch Foyle — Londonderry — 
 Irish ])()lice and porters — The hotel. - - 25-23 
 
 LETTER in. 
 
 IRKLAXI). 
 
 Origin of Londonderr}- — Names — The charter — Its gates — 
 Bridges — Cathedrals, &c — The siege — A brave man- 
 Public buildings — Gents in green — Supposed Fenians — 
 The arrest — A polite officer — An honorable discharge — 
 Forward. 41 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 On through Coleraine, &c — A delightful green — Belfast — 
 Population — A rich Marquis — Linen and poplin — The 
 
Contents. ^'^i 
 
 tirst Bible— Newspapers—Public buildings— Antiquities 
 —An old bridge— Botanical gardens— On through Lis- 
 burn,&c.,'to Dundalk— An ancient town— Robert Bruce 
 —His death — Distilleries— Brewers— Churches— King 
 Cormac — Tara's Halls— Dangan Castle— The first 
 church— St. Patrick— On again— Slane—Drogheda— 
 River Boyne— James H and William Prince of Orange- 
 Population— Religious sects— Cromwell— A blot— A 
 flying King— Schomberg— The obelisk— Balbriggan*- 
 Factories— Swords-Malahide-The castle -An abbey 
 —The whistle— Dublin ! Dublin ! ! Dublin ! ! ! - 4S 
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 Dublin— The hotel— Americans— Cost of poplins— Govern- 
 ment house — Castle — Chapel — State apartments — 
 Cornwallis — Washington— St. Patrick's Cathedral- 
 Mr. Guiness-Generosity— Post Office - Nelson monu- 
 ment—Custom House-Trinity College-Phoenix Park 
 —A sham fight— Zoological gardens— Cemetery— Dan 
 O'Connell— Honest Tom Steele— Curran— Mount Joy 
 Prison— The Fenian chiefs— St. Stephen's green— Ireland 
 and Irishmen— Royal Mail steamship, &c. - - 54 
 
 LETTER VI. 
 
 WALES. 
 
 Holyhead— The breakwater— Government steamers— South 
 stack— 365 steps— An ancient monastery— A thick wall 
 A Waterloo hero— Tubular bridge— Suspension 
 bridge-A long tunnel— Anglesey- Conway castle- 
 First Prince of Wales—" Ich Dien "-" Eich Dyn "—The 
 meaning Chester— A fine hotel— An old city— its wall 
 and gates— Royal persons— The siege -Eton hall— A 
 rich nobleman— Servility - The old cathedral -The 
 castle — Wrexham— Llangollen— Jenny Jones — Chirk 
 Castle— Owain Gwynedd and Henry II. - - 62 
 
vi Contents, 
 
 cabin window — Is an old sail — Marriage — Abandons a 
 sailor's life — Fills various occupations on terra firma — 
 Emigrates to this country — Making and keeping money 
 two dilTerent things — He embraces an opportunity — 
 Decides to go to Europe — Diaries and a diary — Leaving 
 liome — Arrival in Xcw York — Introduces " O. T. A." 
 
 LETTERvS 1 AND II. 
 
 ' SEA JOITRNAI,. 
 
 Outward bound — Sandy Hook — A head wind — A strong 
 Northeaster— A polite ship — Sickly tributes — A good 
 meal — Sorrow — Death is preferable — A change — Unsea- 
 sonable weather — Sociable officers — A mixed company 
 An old friend — An idol — System — Shuffle — Divine 
 service — A Scotch piper — A fair wind — All sail set — 
 Signalizing a ship on the banks — Cod fishing — A 
 second attack — Misses an overcoat — Ship's latitudes — 
 — Difference in time — Politics and war — Just the thing — 
 Beautiful twilight — " Immortality of the soul" — Too deep 
 — Sea gulls — A testimonial — Land oh ! — The pilot — 
 Moville — The parting — Loch Foyle — Londonderry — 
 Irish police and porters — The hotel. - - 25-23 
 
 LETTER in. 
 
 I RELAX I). 
 
 Origin of Lontionderry — Names — The charter — Its gates — 
 Bridges — Cathedrals, <S:c — The siege — A brave man — 
 Public buildings — Cients in green — Supposed Fenians — 
 The arrest — A polite odiccr — An honorable discharge — 
 Forward. - 41 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 On through Coleraine, &c — A delightful green — Belfast — 
 Population — A rich Marquis — Linen and poplin — The 
 
Contents. vii 
 
 tirst Bible — Newspapers — Public buildings — Antiquities 
 — An old bridge — Botanical gardens — On through Lis- 
 burn, &c., to Dundalk — An ancient town — Robert Bruce 
 — His death — Distilleries — Brewers — Churches — King 
 Cormac — Tara's Halls — Dangan Castle — The first 
 church — St. Patrick — On again — Slane — Drogheda — 
 River Boyne — James W and William Prince of Orange — 
 Population — Religious sects — Cromwell — A blot — A 
 flying King — Schomberg — The obelisk — Balbriggan*- 
 Factories — Swords — Malahide— The castle— An abbey 
 —The whistle— Dublin ! Dublin ! ! Dublin ! ! ! - 4S 
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 Dublin — The hotel — Americans — Cost of poplins — Govern- 
 ment house — Castle — Chapel — State apartments — 
 Cornwallis — Washington — St. Patrick's Cathedral — 
 Mr. Guiness— Generosity — Post Office - Nelson monu- 
 ment — Custom House— Trinity College — Phoenix Park 
 — A sham fight — Zoological gardens — Cemetery — Dan 
 O'Connell — Honest Tom Steele — Curran— Mount Joy 
 Prison — The Fenian chiefs — St. Stephen's green — Ireland 
 and Irishmen — Royal Mail steamship, &c. - - 54 
 
 LETTER VL 
 
 WALES. 
 
 Holyhead — The breakwater — Government steamers — South 
 stack— 365 steps-^An ancient monastery — A thick wall 
 A Waterloo hero — Tubular bridge — Suspension 
 bridge— A long tunnel — Anglesey— Conway castle — 
 First Prince of Wales — " Ich Dien "— " Eich D}^ " — The 
 meaning Chester — A fine hotel — An old city — its wall 
 and gates — Royal persons — The siege— Eton hall — A 
 rich nobleman — Servility - The old cathedral — The 
 castle — Wrexham — Llangollen — Jenny Jones — Chirk 
 Castle — Owain Gwynedd and Henry II. - - 62 
 
X Conknts. 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 Windsor Castle — The state apartments — St. George's 
 chapel — Elegant memorial window — Divine worship — 
 Royal tomb house — Monument — The round tower — 
 Terrace grounds— British museum — Sydenham — The 
 Crystal Palace — The great orchestra — Two great singers 
 — The various courts — American skating floor, &:c. 147 
 
 LETTER XV, 
 
 FRANCE. 
 
 Dieppe — Railway cars — River Seine — Paris — A crowded 
 hotel — French language — Paris all France Beautiful 
 streets, walks, and drives -Fetes de Napoleon — The 
 Emperor — " Palais del' Exposition TTniversalle" — Hotel 
 (Ics Invalides, t*v:c. ------ 158 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 
 "Ilalles Central" — St. Chapelle — Notre Dame — St. Eti- 
 enne du Mont — Pantheon— Hotel de Cluny — Palais 
 du Luxembourg — Corps Legislatif — Madeline— Place 
 \'cndome — Palais du Louvre — Place de la Concorde — 
 — Bois de Bolougne — Champs Elysees — Paris generally 
 — A red republican guide's opinion — The Emperor — 
 Prince Imperial. - . - ... 167 
 
 EETTLR XVII. 
 
 Palace of Versailles - Statuary— Pictures by the mile — Ter- 
 races Gardens— Walks — Fountains — Triannons, c^'c — 
 — St, Cloud — Sevres— Balloon ascent— Paris again. 175 
 
 LETTER X\'in. 
 
 Strasbourg Clock — Leaving Paris — Normandy — Johnny 
 Crapcau — A yard of bread — \"\\\ Ordinaire— Rouen— 
 
Contenis. x i 
 
 Manchester of France— An obliging Englishman — 
 Cathedral — The church of St. Ouen — Place de la Lucelle 
 — Joan of Arc — Hotel du Bourgtheroulde— Palais do 
 Justice — Notre Dame Le Boscre — River Seine — Dieppe 
 — Sea bathing — Manufactures, &c — A rough passage — 
 Mean accommodations — London again. - - i8i 
 
 LETTER XIX. 
 
 ENGLAND AGAIN. 
 
 Rest — Houses of Parliament — Westminster Abbe}' — Horse 
 guards — Trafalgar Square — Sommerset House — Na- 
 tional gallery — Zoological gardens — Madame Tussauds 
 — Spurgcon. - - - - . - " _ i8g 
 
 LETTER XX. 
 
 Departure — Euston Square station — London and North- 
 western Railway — Sixty-five miles an hour — Delivering 
 and receiving the mail — Taking in water — A quick 
 ride — Manchester agricultural fair — Cotton factory — A 
 variety of people — Departure. - - - -197 
 
 LETTER XXI. 
 
 SCOTLAND. 
 
 On the road — Oxhcnliolnie Junction — An old friend— Sad 
 news — Windermere lake — Penrith castle — Carlysle — An 
 old friend— Hasty lunch — O'er the border — The land o' 
 cakes— The "noble Esk" — Castleton — St. Boswell — 
 Newburgh abbey — Newstead — Melrose — The royal 
 standard — The Queen — Melrose abbey — The " Lovely 
 Tweed"— Abbottsford, Borthwick and Creichton castles 
 — Mary Queen of Scots— Firth of Forth— Edinburgh — 
 Cockburn hotel — Scott's monument -Princess street — 
 Rich and costly jewelry. _ ^ - . _ 204 
 
X i i ' Contents, 
 
 LETTER XXII. 
 
 Edinburgh castle— The ill-fated Mary— James VI — Prison 
 chamber— Scotland's regalia— Opening of the great 
 chest — Great joy— no years elapsed— Queen Margaret's 
 chapel— Mons Meg— Holyrood Palace— Portraits— 
 Darnley — Rizzio — Murder. _ . _ - 212 
 
 LETTER XXriI. 
 
 Chapel royal — King David — Ancient tombstones — Arthur's 
 seat— Royal institution — Antiquarian museum — John 
 Knox — National gallery — Callow hill — National monu- 
 ment — High school — Prison —Knox's house — Regent 
 Murray's house— Union cellar — Old Parliament house 
 — Allan Ramsay — Sorry to leave — Linlithgow — Faikirk 
 — Bannockburn — Stirling. 220 
 
 LETTER XXIV. 
 
 Stirling castle— The Douglass room— The secret chamber — 
 The archway — An impolite woman — A jDolite and atten- 
 tive soldier — The battlements — Abbey Craig — Wallace 
 monument — Beautiful view — An old building — The 
 King and Regent— Ancient orthography — The cathedral 
 — Beautiful monuments — An odd inscription — Argyle 
 Lodge — Lord Darnley and James VI — Bothwell's house 
 — The first bawbee — A royal tailor — Balloch — Lochlom- 
 ond — Dumbarton — The Clyde — Glasgow — Cobden 
 Hotel. - . . ' 225 
 
 LETTER XXV. 
 
 A smoky city -The cathedral — A plain and unpretending- 
 sermon — Memorial windows — The Necropolis— Ele- 
 gant monuments -Public squares — Royal and other 
 monuments — Glasgow University — Wellington monu- 
 ment — Shipbuilding — Paisley — Shawls — Lochweinon — 
 
Contents. xiii 
 
 Curling — Scotch pig iroa — Ardrossan — Firth of Clyde — 
 " Land o' Burns" — " Twa Brigs o' Ayr," — The old 
 tavern — " Tarn O' Shanter and Souter Johnny" — John 
 Barleycorn — " Auld grey mare" — A stormy night. 232 
 
 LETTER XXVI. 
 
 Ayr — Bay of Ayr — Greenan castle — Ailsa craig — The 
 parish chnrch — Oliver Cromwell — The Wallace tower — 
 On the road — The cottage — The kitchen — The recess — 
 The old oak dresser — The old grate — AUoway Kirk — 
 The grave yard — The Burns and other graves. - 339 
 
 LETTER XXVII. 
 
 Burns Hotel — The monument — Auld Brig O'Doon — Relics 
 — Statuary — " Ye Banks and Braes o* Bonnie Doon" — 
 The poet on the banks of the Doon — The Tarn O'Shan- 
 ter poem — Scotland and Scotchmen. . - - 247 
 
 LETTER XXVIII. 
 
 Leaving Glasgow — Liverpool— Its docks — Birkenhead — 
 Public buildings — Englishmen and Frenchmen — Fare- 
 I well — On board the steamship " Peruvian" — Giant's 
 causeway — The " Hibernia" again — Waving of handker- 
 chiefs — Moville again — The mails — At sea — A stormy 
 and cold passage — Icebergs — Belle — Isle — Gulf of St. 
 Lawrence — Aurora borealis — River St. Lawrence — 
 The Mirage — Island of Orleans — Arrival in Quebec — 
 The log — Remarks. - 255 
 
 LETTER XXIX. 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 Quebec — The Caleche — The citadel — A delightful 
 view — Prince of Wales — General Montgomery — Plains 
 of Abram — " Here died Wolfe" — A great fire — Falls of 
 Montmorency — A traitorous bridge — A terrible dis 
 
xiv Contents. 
 
 aster — Quebec as it was and as it is — Public buildings, 
 &c — The steamer " Quebec" — Away up the St. Law- 
 rence. -- -- -- -- 263 
 
 LETTER XXX. 
 
 Montreal — Its history in brief — Shipping — Cathedral — 
 Churches and public buildings— Jeff Davis — Victoria 
 Bridge — Companions du voyage — Still up the St. Law- 
 rence — Beautiful scenery — The canal — Prescott — Og- 
 densburg — Thousand Islands — Lake Ontario — King- 
 ston — An old friend — K distinguished personage — Pop- 
 ulation, &c. — Toronto — A long street — Hamilton 
 —Niagara Falls— Buffalo— Great Bend— HOME— An 
 opinion — Appendix — How to travel — Address before 
 the P. C. C. - - - - - - - 270 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 To THE Readf.r : 
 
 Everything has its aiii/un; and it is in that capacity the 
 writer, while a blush suffuses his countenance, modestly 
 appears to make \\\s first bo^n {\y\\\\ir\ covers), to an intelli- 
 gent and charitable public ; and before introducing " O'er 
 jthe Atlantic" to the reader, thinking it will not be out of 
 'place, he would fain give a. brief outline of his career through 
 life ; — I am the eldest of three brothers, one of whom died in 
 linfanc}-, and the other after arriving at the age of maturitv, 
 land had I not the good fortune to have been born on the 
 other side of the Atlantic, it is more than probable that 1 
 might have been ushered into the world on this side or 
 elsewhere ; but, as we are the creatures of circumstances, 
 we have to be content with wherever our lot is cast, and I, 
 with being a Welshman by birth.* a Celt, a Briton, a Cyinro, 
 'jitlier will do. for I am proud of my nativity ; and although 
 mv career through life has been as diversified as it generally 
 
 '"Although a Welshman by birth, 1 have IVe/sh, English, 
 Scotch and Irish blood coursing through my veins — the 
 latter three only from the paternal side, my mother being 
 purely Welsh. The family name was Giiffifhs. 
 
xvi Preface. 
 
 ! 
 
 is to those who are bora under " certain planets," mine 
 being none of the best, I would nevertheless bow submis- 
 sively to fate, for I might have fared ivorse yes, much 
 worse. 
 
 It was A. D., 1826, on the 17th day of May, that youi 
 humble servant first gave utterance to his vocal powers, 
 which, noisy as they were, did not exceed the noise on the 
 
 street, for it was election day. Lord J s S — w — t and 
 
 Sir W — y — m L — w — s, were running "neck and neck " to 
 represent the good people of our ancient borough in Parlia- 
 ment. I forget the rcstdt ! But recollect being informed 
 several years afterwards that his Lordship was the suc- 
 cessful candidate, and that he had made a promise to 
 my grandsire on the maternal side, in return for some littlci 
 favors bestowed, that should the squealing youngster up! 
 stairs (meaning myself), ever need a friend, I was to applyj 
 to him ; and based upon this long pent up promise, whenil 
 about iS years of age, I did apply to his Lordship for his influx' 
 ence in my behalf to obtain a government appointment, andl 
 soon received a very courteous reply stating that unfortu- 
 nately at that time his political friends were all out of office, 
 otherwise lie would have been very pleased to serve mv inter- 
 ests ; but that should the time ever arrive when he could do 
 so, he would not forget a promise made so many years before 
 to one who had served his interests so zealously. I have 
 never heard from his Lordship since. But I am digressing. 
 
 My memory carries me back to when about five years old 
 (more or less), at which time my father had the misfortunei 
 to fall from off his horse and fracture his skull, a circum-', 
 stance, suffice it to say, that ruined the family, for he never' 
 was able to attend to business afterwards. He dragged a 
 
Preface. xvii 
 
 miserable existence for about thiee years, when death at 
 last came to liis relief. Leaving to my mother, a woman of 
 sterling merit (God bless her memory), an only legacy, that 
 of" myself and a younger brother, dependant up^n her own 
 exertions for support, which she had already done for years 
 prc\ious. Oh I how well do T recollect how she had to 
 battle with adversity, and how well she (notwithstanding 
 .the difficulties she had to encounter), managed to " keep 
 the wolf from the door," and clothed us respectably. Alas 1 
 she also has departed for the spirit world, and I, the only 
 representative of my father's race that I know of, am still 
 permitted to sojourn among mortals. 
 
 A few years after my father's death, I went to live with 
 i my grandmother, on the maternal side, and continued under 
 Lher hioad aproii'^ and protection until the time arrived for 
 :iie to choose for myself the business or occupation in 
 which I was to car\-e my way through this old world. 
 Grandmothers, as you are no doubt well av.-are, generally 
 spoil the members of the succeeding generation, and if an}' 
 boy was petted or spoiled, it was my humble self; but with 
 Ji good intent, for she invariably rebuked me when saying 
 )r doing wrong. It was her warm, kind generous nature that 
 evolted against the use of the rod, and the fault (if any) 
 ,vas in her being too iiiditli^euf, for kindness does much to 
 rain youth in the way they should go. I am no believer in 
 ' spare the rod and spoil the child." Kindness begets love, 
 uid love begets obedience. Timely and good advice well 
 ^iven is, in my estimation, worth all the birch rods in the 
 ountry. The parent, in my opinion, only harden youth, 
 
 *The Welsh women wear heavy wide flannel aprons of 
 (ripe and tartan pattern. 
 
xviii Preface. 
 
 and render them cruel in themselves by administering 
 corporeal chastisement. But as to m)'self. 
 
 After receiving a common school education, in wiiich I 
 made but little progress, I was sent to a relative, an attorney 
 by profession, with whom 1 remained some considerable 
 time as copyist and errand-boy ; but that kind of life not 
 suiting my taste, I was placed in a mercantile establishment, 
 which was too conftniu}^ for my roving nature, a few weeks 
 therefore, was all I remained there. About this time I had 
 a longing for sea-faring life ; to be. a sailor and visit foreign 
 climes seemed to be the height of my ambition, which after 
 having tried the ship building business, also to no purpose, 
 my mother, who was very much opposed to a sea-faring 
 life, eventually acceded to my becoming an apprentice boy 
 
 on board the ship E h H s, commanded by a relative 
 
 who traded to the West Indies. 
 
 T shall never forget the feeling that came over me when 
 on the eve of leaving port. It was then that my courage 
 all but failed me, for I was leaving home. That home 
 Avhich, in the language of the song, was "Home Sweet 
 Home " to me, to go to a distant land, perhaps never to 
 return again. Then my mother, my poor dear mother, 
 almost became frantic, for it had entered into her mind that 
 she would never see her "darling boy" again. Yes, 
 reader, so sad did I feel, that had it not been for shame, a 
 fear that my playmates would laugh and jeer at me, I 
 would have gone on shore, and thus would have ended my 
 idea of a sailor's life. But it was too late to hesitate, the 
 vessel was taking in her moorings, and the loud voice of 
 the pilot could be heard above the din of the windlass 
 and capstan, creaking of blocks and loud singing of the 
 
Pre/ ace. xix 
 
 few as they cliecrfully pulled in the heavy iiawsers and 
 lains, and coiled them away into their respective places. 
 ihen came the word to the tug-boat, which was engaged to 
 r)w us to the roads or place of anchorage, prior to going to 
 Jsa. " Go ahead slow." 1 stood on the deck dressed a la 
 ■jilor, almost stupefied, and saw my dear mother on the 
 uay wave her liandkerchief as her last farewell, for her 
 'eart was too full to speak, as the vessel began to gather 
 icadway. Then came to my relief a flood of tears, a goodly 
 ;w, and I felt better. 
 
 I In a couple of hours we arrived in the roads. It was 
 jretty rough. The ship rolled, then pitched, and I seemed 
 3 be standing first upon my head then on my heels, and 
 'ander around the deck like a drunken man, until at last 
 had to come t3 m)' moorings, which I did among a lot of 
 ope stowed away in the fore-castle, where the tar smelled 
 o strong that it added to my malad}-, for I was terribly sea 
 ick. At that time I would have given the world, if I 
 ould, to have got on shore. There was no sympathy from 
 ny one. The rude sailors laughed at me, telling me to 
 rink a pail full of salt water,* that then I would be all right 
 nd many other such unkind remarks. During the night 
 he Captain came on board, and ordered the ship to get 
 ■nder weigh and proceed to sea, and afterwards inquired 
 3r me. He was told that I had been sick ever since the 
 hip's arrival in the roads. " Send him aft," was the com- 
 aand. Aft I came, first holding on to one thing then another, 
 nore dead than alive. Said he : " So you are sea sick, eh ? 
 
 *Salt water is supposed to be an excellent remedy for sea 
 ickness, for it has a tendency to strengthen the stomach ; 
 mt few are able to take it. 
 
X X Preface. 
 
 Vou arc a pretty sailor. Make a Ijcttcr soldier than 
 sailor, 1 think, (io and wash your face and hands ancbi 
 vou will feel better." 1 essayed to do so, but nature ha |e! 
 to give wav, and sprawlini^ 1 \\ent down the cabin stai 
 moaning pitcously. 
 
 I remained partially in this deplorable condition for i)i 
 haps a week, performing such work as 1 was able to d 
 during which litTie my stomach refused all nourishmenii 
 l)ut at the end of that time " Richard was himself again.' 
 On our arrival at St. Jago de Cuba, I was the first victim \'\ 
 the vellow fever, and instead of sending me to the hospit:i 
 my kind relative sent me to a private boarding house, anc 
 although my life was at one time despaired of, under the 
 kind treatment of the ladies of the house, I recovcrei 
 sufficiently and in time to join the shij) when ready for sen 
 In a few days after leaving St. Jago, the yellow fever broki 
 out on board, and carried away \\\\\\ it several of c)ur crew 
 among them my fellow apprentice, his first voyage like 
 myself to sea ;" but I continued to gain strength daily, and 
 felt as though the past had been forgotten. We buried them irij 
 the deep blue sea, a sad and mournful sight, sowed up iu 
 their hammocks, with a hea\T weight attached to their feet 
 They were launched over the ship's side into the brin}| 
 deep, to become perhaps food for the monsters which' 
 inhabit the Atlantic.f 
 
 * I make particular mention of those facts of mv fir^i 
 voyage to sea, simply to show my readers that sea-faring 
 life w-as not that which my young mind had supposed it 
 would be 
 
 f The funeral service at sea is very impressive, and is thai 
 which is laid down in the Book of Common Prayer for such 
 occasions. 
 
■ Preface. " xxi 
 
 11 due course of time we arrived home, and once on 
 .re the dangers of the past were speedily forgotten, and 
 jlt almost a veteran sailor, determined to weather it out 
 5ea in all weather and at all hazards. My dear mother, 
 en she saw me, shed tears of joy, and I, the weather 
 /e'7/. tar of a single voyage to|^ the West Indies, could not 
 rain from shedding tears also. Among my old playmates 
 /as'^?;^- /«/«??. J With 'a face very nearly as dark as the 
 ^age, they all courted my acquaintance, and gazed with 
 light at my sailor figure, vvhile they listened with wonder 
 d admiration to the account I gave them of the voyage, 
 y much exaggerated of course ! 
 
 After my boyhood's career at sea, during which time I 
 idc several voyages to the West Indies and North 
 nerica, I served in various capacities on board ship, 
 ring which time I sailed to the four quarters of the 
 jbe, and visited some of the leading ports in the East 
 d West Indies, North and South America, the Mediter- 
 lean Sea, the Dardanelles and the sea of Marmora. But 
 would be futile on my part to endeavor to give even a 
 :ei account of the places I have visited, and the incidents 
 nnected therewidi, as also those attending the life of a 
 ilor, with its hardships, privations and hairbreadth escapes^ 
 • pleasures there are but few (if any) suffice it to say (in 
 xritiine parlance), that "I went in through the hawsepipe 
 d came out through the cabin window,"* and have served 
 I board ship in almost every capacity, during a period of 
 
 "Which implies iliat a person has thoroughly studied the 
 aies of a seaman, thus becoming competent to discharge 
 em in every respect. 
 
xxii Preface. 
 
 al)out 13 years, I therefore lay a decided claim to the till 
 old salt I 
 
 In 1848, I was married, and soon afterwards abandonee! 
 sea-faring life, and served in various occupations on tern 
 firma, some of which were connected with shipping, till 1855 
 when I emigrated to this country, with a view to better mi 
 condition in life. How successful I have been in that particu! 
 lar I leave the reader to guess. I still work for a livintr, ' 
 expect to do so during the remainder of my career ; but |j 
 find no fault with the opportunities I have had to makJ| 
 ^noney, perfectly satisfied that to make and to keep it arc 
 different things* 
 
 For several years after my arrival in this country I looked! 
 forward with much pleasure to the time when circumstances^ 
 would permit me to cross the broad Atlantic once more to| 
 pay a visit to my native land, and it was not until 1867, and! 
 after traveling much in this country (east, west and south), did| 
 the opportunity occur. I was not long making up my mind! 
 as to the day and date Avhich would see me on board the! 
 steamer for Britain, so commenced inmiediately to put myi 
 worldly afTairs in order, and as I had been in the habit of 
 keeping a diary of the weather and events for many years, 
 the thought instantly struck me that I would while on the 
 trip keep a diary on a much more extensive scale, of scenes 
 and events abroad. Hence " O'er the Atlantic !" 
 
 We left home on a beautiful day in June, when everything 
 
 * With all due respect for Shakespeare's assertion "Thif 
 there .s a time in the aff^airs of men, \c.r son fpeoTle make 
 •noney by blundering into or out of an enterprise anrno^ 
 U-cause they are ...../..than others, but owin^ fi' sireak 
 
Preface. xxiii 
 
 1 
 around the house and neighborhood were dressed in nature's 
 
 best. Sorry were we to leave, and it was not until the ponies 
 
 were driven to the door to take us to the railwa)^ depot did 
 
 the acute pangs of sorrow at parting from those so dear to 
 
 us begin to take effect. A few inaudible words, kisses and 
 
 tears, with a silent pressure of the hand was enough and we 
 
 were gone — gone, we thought, perhaps to return no more, a 
 
 thought which nigh determined us to turn back ; but once 
 
 on board the cars we felt somewhat better, and as we 
 
 approached the great city of New York better still, where 
 
 we arrived that afternoon, quite reconciled to the chances of 
 
 a voyage to Europe. ****** 
 
 In introducing this little volume to the public, I would 
 sav that it was not written with the intention of putting it 
 before them in its present form, but for insertion in the 
 columns of a weekly newspaper, published by a particular 
 friend of rnine in Wilkes Barre, Pa., who done me the honor 
 to publish the whole of my letters, under the heading " A 
 Voyage to Europe," occupying about six months in their pub- 
 lication, which, I am pleased to say were read with much 
 interest by the subscribers to the Lnzcrne Union, and others 
 of my friends and acquaintances, some of whom on my 
 arrival home importuned me to publisli them in book form, 
 which," after due thought and advice, T concluded to do, 
 hence their appearance under a new name and in a new dress. 
 
 In conclusion I would avail myself of this opportunity to 
 remark that while I am under many obligations to friends 
 in Europe for information, and to KoMs History of Ireland, 
 Woodward's History of Wales, Black's Guide, &c' I claim no 
 particular merit for the book, but, if I have managed to 
 link together facts and incidents connected with the past 
 
xxiv Freface. 
 
 and 'present liistoiy of tlie places wc \isited interesting to 
 my readers, 1 shall feel more than glad that my luimble 
 efforts to please have not been in vain. i\''*'^" 
 
 W. E. WHYTE. 
 West Pittston, Pa., July 4th, 1870. 
 
O'ER THE ATLANTIC 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 AMERICA. 
 
 New York, June ^f/i, 1867. — The Aveather dur- 
 ing the last few days has been sultry and hot, so 
 much so that it has been quite oppressive. The 
 steamship Hibcrnia, of the Anchor Line, Capt. Mun- 
 ro, plying between New York and Glasgow, left 
 Pier 20, North River, about noon, on her vovage 
 across the Atlantic, with a full list of cabin pas- 
 sengers, and a great many in the second cabin, 
 intermediate and steerage, principally comprised 
 of persons going to visit relatives and friends in 
 various parts of Europe. Such being my own 
 case. My wife and her brother accompanying 
 me with a view of seeing scenes and life in the 
 "Old World." 
 
 Ar SEA. 
 
 Scarcely had we got oft' Sandy Hook, (where the 
 pilot left us) before our fellow passengers began 
 
26 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 to feci the inHuencc of a strong N. E. wind 
 wliicli, being ahead, made the gallant ship as 
 polite as a French dancing master, and ere the 
 supper bell had rang, all, with but a few excep- 
 tions, were paying sickly tributes to Neptune. 
 Thanks to my former experience of a seafaring! 
 life, I felt like partaking with a relish of the good 
 things so nicely laid out for the evening repast, 
 so sat down at the Captain's table with the airs 
 of an old salt. At 8 p. m., wind increasing, 
 bringing on sea-sickness among the passengers in 
 its most terrible form. The cries and moans of 
 the poor victims are pitiful to hear, some wishing 
 they had never left terra firma, and others almost 
 preferring death to the endurance of the malady, 
 my wife and her brother not the least among the 
 number, but they are fortunate in having me to 
 devote that attention to them, which they could 
 not otherwise get, for the stewards and stewardess 
 have too much to do among so many passengers. 
 Midnight.— It now blows a gale of wind and 
 the ship is under double reefed fore-and-aft sails, 
 and laboring heavy, the more so, in consequence 
 of being loaded by the head with seventy-five 
 tons of coal, temporarily stowed in the waist* 
 before leaving New York, large quantities of 
 which is washed away as slie dives under a head 
 sea, which put me in mind of an old sea phrase: 
 '' He that goes to sea for pleasure may go to h— I 
 
 * Foiwuid Gangway. 
 
O'er tJic Atlantic. 27 
 
 for pastime." But such is life, for how often do 
 we pay for that we do not really enjoy. 
 
 9///. — This is the Sabbath. Wind as yesterday, 
 but accompanied with a cold, drizzling rain. All 
 the passengers, with the exception of two gentle- 
 men and myself, still very much under the dire 
 intluence of sea-sickness, a profitable time t(j the 
 owners so far as dietinf^ is concerned. Noon — 
 Passed a barque bound t(j tlie eastward, but lay- 
 iuj:;; too"' under close reefed main topsail, and 
 laboring verv heavy, very much moie so than 
 ourselves — during the last thirty-six hours we 
 have made but little headway. 
 
 10///. — Fine and clear dav with a strong breeze 
 from the old quarter (N. E.) Passengers still in 
 the arms of Neptune, especially the ladies. Af- 
 ternoon — less wind, set more sail, i. e. by shaking 
 out the reefs of the fore and aft sails. vSome 
 gentlemen passengers have made their appear- 
 ance on deck, cutting but a sorry figure, haying 
 anything but "sea legs" under them. To-day 
 made the acquaintance of Capt. Munro and the 
 doctor (Flemington) of the ship, two unso- 
 phisticated sociable men. Evening — more mod- 
 erate, made the acquaintance of Mr. Reed, the 
 chief officer, with whom I had a long talk while 
 walking the deck a la sailor, a gentleman I am 
 much pleased with. All the officers seem to be 
 very gentlemanly and sociable men, just the 
 
 * Hove too. Keeping head to wind and sea as near as 
 possible, so as to weather the gale the easier. 
 
28 0\r the Atlantic. 
 
 kind of men who should officer ;i passenger 
 vessel. 
 
 ii///. — A beaiiLifiil niorniJig with pleasant 
 breeze, but still ahead. A great many of the 
 passengers feel better and are able to sit at the 
 breakfast table, a mixed company, comprised of 
 Scotch. Iris/i, E/i^i(Iis/i, IVc/s/i and American ; cjf 
 Welsh there are only two, myself and a gentle- 
 man named Thomas, from Utica, N. V., with 
 whom I Avas acquainted eleven years ago, 
 since which time 1 had not seen him until 
 we met on board, after being two days out 
 of New York, when, after some little conversa- 
 tion pro and con, we recollected each other — 
 glad were we to meet under such peculiar cir- 
 cumstances and renew old acquaintance. Mr. 
 Tliomas is bound to the same part of Wales as 
 myself — his parents reside about twenty miles 
 from my native place. We now begin to be 
 l)etter acquainted with the officers of the ship. 
 C'aj)tain Munro is the idol of his subordinates, 
 whom they familiarly term the old man, not 
 because he is any older than either of them, but 
 because it is a sort of endearment. Mr. Reed, 
 the chief officer, is a plain, matter-of-fact man, 
 cverv inch a sailor. Not one of those kid glove 
 kind, but a whole-soul, straight-up-and-down 
 tar of the old school I he passed the principal 
 ])art of his life in the East India trade, some 
 portion as master, and it is presumed that so 
 s )on as a vacanc^v occurs in this line he will be 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 29 
 
 pr(3motecl to cnptain. Mr. Johnson, the second 
 officer, is quite a younir man, and one tliat will 
 no doubt make his mark in the profession. Mr. 
 Henderson, the third officer, is an elderly man, 
 and I understand is to succeed Mr. Johnson as 
 second on the ship next voyage, for Mr. Johnson 
 is to remain on shore to undergo the usual 
 examination for promotion before the Govern- 
 ment Board of Examiners, which is very strict 
 in the British Merchant Marine service, for no 
 man is allowed to act as an officer on board of ship 
 unless duly qualified to do so, a system we 
 Avoidd do well to adopt in the United States 
 Merchant Marine. Dr. Flemington and tic 
 purser Mr. Brown, tAvo very polite gentlemen, 
 make themselves very agreeable, and escort the 
 ladies up and down the deck with that gallantry 
 so generally unusual among sea-faring men, in 
 short, they flirt with the ladies, play with the 
 children, and do all in their power to make all 
 comfortable and happy. Mr. MacTammany, 
 the chief engineer, is also a very pleasant person. 
 To-day Capt. Munro introduced a game to be 
 played on the quarter deck, called sJiuffle, Avhich 
 is simply a number of squares formed of clialk 
 lines on the deck and numbered so as to count 
 fifteen each wav, then the player stands twenty 
 feet off Avith a long stick in his hand, resembling 
 a billiard cue rest, and pushes with it a round 
 block of wood with a flat surface towards the 
 squares, when he that counts the most, which 
 
30 O'er iJic Atlaniii. 
 
 depends upon wliieli scpiare liis block rests, wins 
 the o^anie. This is an amusing and interesting 
 game, and not without its excitement, a game 
 tliat will serve much to do away with the monot- 
 ony of a sea voyage. 
 
 12///. — During the night we had light airs, 
 and in the earlv morning a calm. At noon, a 
 light wind from the old corner. All the passen- 
 gers on deck forgetful of the past, some playing 
 shuffle, now becoming quite popular, others 
 throwing rope quoits over a wooden peg and 
 into a bucket, otliers reading, and away aft are 
 some Democrats and Republicans discussing 
 American politics, which, I am afraid, will not 
 make any of them the wiser, for stubbornness will 
 ])redominate on both sides. This evening a Rev. 
 Mr. Kennedy, assisted by the Rev. Mr. Sprowl, 
 from Pittsburgh, held divine service in the cabin, 
 and later, a Scotch piper marclied up and down 
 the whole length of the ship, as statelv as if a 
 lAiird of the Isles, playing upon his bags the 
 most popular airs of Scotland, much to the de- 
 light and amusement of the passeagers, after 
 whicli, the passengers retired to the cabin to en- 
 joy a game of chess, checkers, whist, euchre, &c-., 
 the Captain, Doctor and Purser Joining in with 
 them. 
 
 13''//- — A fair wind and warmer weather, all 
 sail set, and a full head of steam on, expect to be 
 on the banks of Newfoundland this afternoon. 
 2:30 P. M. signalled the American ship West- 
 
i 
 
 0\r the Atlantic. 3t 
 
 6. 
 
 moreland bound West. Evening — Wind increas- 
 ing and shifting to the N. W. Shortened sail. 
 Night — Wind more nortlierly accompanied with 
 cold rain. 
 
 14///. — This morning light airs, yet we are 
 making good headw^ay under steam. We are 
 now crossing the banks, in a fog, with the fog- 
 whistle going every few minutes,to warn ships that 
 possibly may be in our track, of our presence. 
 Noon — drizzling cold rain. Evening — passed a 
 French barque at anchor, with her boats out 
 catching codfish. — Codfishing on the banks of 
 Newfoundland is quite an extensive and lucra- 
 tive business; during the season hundreds of ves- 
 sels of various tonnage, from 100 to 500 tons, 
 are engaged in catching and salting the fish, 
 after which, they leave for various places to un- 
 load and dry the fish for market ; many of those 
 vessels, while on the banks, get run down by 
 steamers and other vessels crossing to the east- 
 ward and westward during the thick fogs wdiich 
 generally prevail in these latitudes, and which 
 often result in the partial or total destruction of 
 one or the other of the ships colliding. It is 
 therefore highly necessary to keep a good lookout. 
 Steamers, in addition to their fog-whistles, carry 
 lights of various colors, one at the foremast head 
 and one on each side, starboard and larboard of 
 the bridge. Sailing vessels blow a fog-horn and 
 keep their bells ringing, which resembles a fune- 
 I ral knell, hence every precaution is, or if not. 
 
32 cycr the Atlantic. 
 
 sliould be exercised to prevent, wliich too often 
 occurs, ships getting into collision. — I recollect, 
 when in the Quebec trade many years ago, on 
 the passage home, crossing the banks during a 
 heavy gale of wind from the N. W., it was at 
 night, the ship running before the wind under 
 double reefed topsails, suddenly and within 
 half a cable's length of us a small schooner was 
 seen on our starboard quarter, hove too, with the 
 helm lashed down"'- and the crew all below. A 
 minute or so earlier she must have crossed our 
 bows, a narrow escape for her, for had the ship 
 struck her we would have run clean over her, 
 and sent her and the crew without a second's 
 warning into the land of fishes. This w^as in my 
 boyhood days, but it seems as though it was but 
 yesterday. 
 
 *To dispense witli the services of a man at the helm. 
 
O'er the Athiuiii. 33 
 
 LETTER II. 
 
 AT SEA, CONTINUED. 
 
 June 15///.— Strong cold northerly wind, and 
 long-swelled sea, which causes the ship to roll very 
 much, creating among some of the passengers a 
 second attack of sea sickness. Noon— we are 
 now seven days from New York, and over the 
 banks of Newfoundland, going ten knots* per 
 hour, distance run, only 1 200 miles, yet, if we have 
 luck, mav possibly complete the passage by this 
 day week (Saturday). Evening— more moderate 
 but still quite cold, causing me to miss very 
 much the good services of my overcoat, whicli I 
 neo-ligentlv left behind in the railway car at 
 Sc?anton, 'Pa. Night— beautifully clear moon- 
 light, two hours diflference in time between us 
 
 and New^ York. 
 
 16///— Early morning a dead calm, or what is 
 generally termed by sailors, " Paddy's hurricane 
 up and down the masts and all over the decks 
 and heavy swelled sea, the ship rolls very much. 
 
 * A sea mile. 
 A* 
 
34 O'er tJic Atlantic. 
 
 Six A. M — :i pleasant breeze from tlie west, 
 wliicli continued until the afternoon, when it 
 veered around to tlie S. W., which enables us to 
 set our fore and aft sails as Avell as our square 
 sails. Ship going eleven knots. We are now in 
 what is termed tlie ''Rolling Forties" (40"'' north 
 lat.), where tlie sea is generally in a very turbu- 
 lent and excited state, skipping and jumping 
 like boiling water. Evening — a drizzling rain 
 with the wind from the same quarter but fresh- 
 ening. Ship doing well. Divine service was 
 lield in the cabin this morning and evening. Rev. 
 Mr. Kennedy officiating. 
 
 17///. — This morning it blows a strong gale 
 from the S. ^^''., with a verv high sea. Ship going 
 thirteen knots under all the canvas and steam 
 she can carry — such weather as we are having is 
 quite unusual for y////r ; none of us anticipated 
 such rougli cold weather this season of the vear. 
 Afternoon — wind shifted more to the westward, 
 and the ship is running right before it, with the 
 sea very high, causing lier to roll and pitch 
 heavily — notwithstanding, she proves herself to 
 be an excellent sea boat. Most of the passen- 
 gers are now confined to their rooms, some sea sick, 
 and others for tlie want of "sea legs" to enable 
 them to move about. Evening — passed a ship 
 on larboard tack* under close reefed main-top 
 sail and mizzen stay sail,f bound to the westward. 
 
 *Wiiul oil" tlie rii^ht bow. 
 
 I Hove too, niakins^ little or no lieachvnv. 
 
CTer fhc Atlantic 35 
 
 Night — more niodenite, divine service lield \\\ 
 tlie cabin, the Rev. Mr. Sprowl officiating. 
 
 18///. — Earlv morning — still more moderate, 
 with the wind from the N. W. Later — squall v 
 with rain and a slight fall of snow (queer Aveather 
 for June) all the canvas set and the ship going 
 eleven knots. Noon — worked the ship's latitude 
 f )r the first time in eighteen vears, the sun's alti- 
 tude was 60 deg. 51 min., and the declination 23 
 Aq^. 25 min. N., Avhich gave the latitude 52 deg. 
 22 min. X. Here our course was changed to 
 E.S. E. fron> E. by S. ; difference in time between 
 us and New York 3 hours and 15 minutes, and 
 distance to Moville, Londonderry, 950 miles, 
 fwo p. M — passed and signalled the Montreal 
 R. M. S. vS. N'fstorian^ five davs out from Liverpool 
 and four from Londonderry. Later — passed 
 two sailing ships on the larboard tack,'*' bound 
 westward. T^vening — squally, with rain and 
 hail. 8 p. M. a committee met to draft a testi- 
 monial, testifying our appreciation of the very 
 gentlemanly and polite attention paid us by the 
 captain and his officers during the passage. We 
 have now become as members of one family and 
 begin to feel some regret at the prospect of a 
 speedy separation, for notwithstanding the in- 
 clemency of the Aveather, we have passed ten 
 days together in the most sociable and agreeable 
 manner. A difference of opinions has certainly 
 often occurred, for instance, on politics, and the 
 
 *Wind ofl" the left bow. 
 
36 0\r tJu' Atlantic. 
 
 relative abilities of Generals Grant, McClellan, 
 Sherman and others, all of which occurred in 
 i^ood feeling and Avithout anger. 
 
 19///. — An exceedingly fine morning, neither 
 too warm nor too cold, a pleasant breeze continues 
 from the N. W. with a moderate sea, the ship 
 going from ten to eleven knots. Noon — passed 
 and signalled the steamer lowa^ of this line, 
 Avhich left Glasgow on the 14th inst., and Lon- 
 donderry on tlie 15th, bound to New York. — 
 Afternoon — Avind shifted round to the nortliwest. 
 ravening — the wind still drawing a;head ; 8 p. m., 
 wind from X. E. ; ship close hauled"^' but going 
 her course S. E. bv E., 1-2 E., it has again be- 
 come quite cold. Night — fresh breeze, and "all's 
 well" is heard from the ({uartermaster as he 
 strikes tlie hcnir on the bell, which is promptly 
 responded to bv the lookout man on the forecas- 
 tle deck. 
 
 How different the evenings are in these lati- 
 tudes to what they are in Ncav York and Penn- 
 sylvania; there, almost as soon as the sun sets, 
 darkness covers tlie earth, but here avc have 
 hours of beautiful twilight, which must be seen 
 to be appreciated, and now, at 10 p. m., we can 
 sec to read on deck. Such a beautiful soft light; 
 and I am informed by the captain that in Glas- 
 gow, at this season of the year, it continues to 11 
 o'clock almost as light as day, thus making the 
 night very short, for the sun rises as early as 3 
 
 * Sails phiced so as to ho of some benefit. 
 
0\r the Aila?itic. 37 
 
 h. .^r. How delightful this must be to those per- 
 sons engaged in field labor, and who wish to 
 evade working out in the heat of the day. How 
 pleased the hard working man in America would 
 be if he could, during the summer months, enjoy 
 such a privilege. 
 
 I have now made up mv mind to go ashore at 
 Londonderry and go from thence, via Belfast and 
 other places, to Dublin by rail, thence by the 
 government mail steamer to Holvhead, &c., which 
 Aviil give us an opportunity to see a great deal of 
 Ireland, leaving Scotland until our return home- 
 ward. 
 
 20///. — Liglit and variable wind, ship going her 
 course under steam, square sails furled, and fore 
 and aft sails drawing but slightly.* Noon — 
 pleasant with smooth sea. Distance to Moville, 
 Londonderry, 468 miles. Afternoon — furled all 
 sails, they being of no use, ship going nine knots 
 under steam alone. Evening — the same. 
 
 This evening a Dr. Maxon, of Geneva, N. Y., by 
 special request of the captain and officers of the 
 sliip, delivered a lecture in the cabin on the "Im- 
 mortality of the Soul." The subject was well 
 handled by him, but it was too deep for the cra- 
 niums of ordinary persons. The doctor is on 
 his way to Paris and other cities of the 
 Old World to gather more information and to 
 dive further into metaphysics. He is no doubt 
 an exceedingly talented man, and has, I am 
 
 * Doing but little good. 
 
^^S 0\i- llif Aflantic. 
 
 inlorincd. written and j)ublishcd sonic very 
 excellent \v(n-ks relating to the medical profes- 
 sion. II p. M — beautiful t\vilio:ht. most of the 
 passenc^ers on deck. 
 
 2\st. — A fine but li^iht breeze, and from a point 
 which enal;les us to carry fore and aft sails. 
 The captain expects to make Torry Island (forty 
 miles from Movilie) to-morrow morning from 6 
 to 7 o'clock, or some point on the west coast of 
 Ireland earlier. Lots of Irish coast sea gulls 
 hover around the ship now, a sure indication 
 that we are ncaring land. Afternoon — cloudy, 
 with appearance of rain. Evening — beautiful 
 twilight. Capt. Munro was presented this evening 
 alter divine service, by the Rev. Mr. Kennedy^ 
 with the written testimonial signed by the cabin 
 and second cabin passengers, expressive of the 
 feeling they entertain for him and his officers. 
 Tiie presentation speech was made bv Mr. Ken- 
 nedy and replied to in a few happy remarks by the 
 captain, on behalf of himself and officers. Res- 
 olutions were then made that copies of the testi- 
 monial be published in Glasgow, Londonderry 
 and New York newspa])ers. 
 
 22d. — Early morning, a pleasant breeze from 
 the same cjuarter. Land Avas seen at 5 a. m, on 
 our starboard bow (the western coast of Ireland); 
 at 6 A. M. sighted the island of Torry; at 1:30 
 ])assed closely to the R. M. S. S. St. Andrew, of the 
 >b'nrreal line, outward bound, the passengers of 
 wITk li clieei-ed us lustilv as we passed bv. 3 p. -vr. 
 
O'er tJic A ti antic. 39 
 
 vSaw the stcamsliiji Britaiiia, of this line, outward 
 bound, but too far to signal her. At 3:30 the 
 pilot came on board, and we soon got oft' the 
 village of ]Moville, where tlie steam tug came 
 alongside and took oft' all those g<^»ing to Lon- 
 donderry, We soon cast off from the big ship'-' 
 amid the cheers and waving of handkerchiefs by 
 those we left behind to proceed further, and then 
 steamed up Lough Foyle against wind and tide ; 
 at 6 p. M. we arrived alongside the quay in Der- 
 rv, and were soon besieged with custom-house 
 officers and porters, the one eager to examine 
 our trunks, and the others fighting and scramb- 
 ling among themselves, as to wdio should convey 
 them to the hotels and elscAvhere, which was at 
 last settled, but not without some knock-downs 
 between them and the police, of wdiom there was 
 a good sprinkling. After some difficidty I succeed- 
 ed in getting our baggage through tlie hands of the 
 officers, and into the hands of a decent kind of 
 Irishman porter, who conveyed them on a hand- 
 cart to the Commercial Hotel, one of the best 
 hotels in the city of Derry, where we were soon 
 comfortably seated at our evening repast, com- 
 posed of beef steak, (fine and tender) fresh 
 
 * Unfortunately, this fine ship, in a little more than a 
 
 year afterwards, was lost. She went doAvn when 700 miles 
 
 oft' the Irish coast, caused by the breaking of her shaft in a 
 
 heavy sea. This was on the 25th of November, 1S68. and 
 
 I among the lost was Mr. Reed, the first officer, and the 
 
 I chief-engineer, Mr. MacTammany. Among the saved were 
 
 I Tapt. Munro, and the purser, Mr. Brown, together with 
 
 j some others of the crew and a few passengers. 
 
40 O'er the Atlautic. 
 
 cockles (snuill shell fish), good bread iind butter 
 and delicious tea, which was served up in good 
 style, amid much bowing and scraping, exceed- 
 ing polite attention. 
 
 In my next I will gi\-e a brief account of W\\\ 
 ancient citv and its walls. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 41 
 
 LETTER Iir. 
 
 IRELAND. 
 
 Londonderry.--" There are not," says KohVs Irc- 
 hifid, "any authentic records of Londonderry, but 
 for many centuries, up to the reign of Queen Eliz- 
 abeth, its history is almost ecclesiastical, its name 
 Doire, from the old word Dru or Dreiv, signify- 
 ing an oak wood, has been preserved. The 
 island of Derry itself, and the entire district sur- 
 rounding it, having been covered with a dense 
 forest at one time, in the tenth century, it went 
 by the additional name of Calgaic or CalgacJi^ 
 the name of some renowned warrior, signifying 
 the oak wood of tlie warrior; later it went by 
 the name of Doire-choliom-cille, or Dt'r?y-Co- 
 Iiimb Kille^ in honor of a Saint Columb, a native 
 of Tyrconnell (Donegal); still later it went by 
 the name of Termon-doire, or Tcn)iondcrr}\ 
 from the Termon or free lands belonging to an 
 abbey erected in the neighborhood. All these 
 names gave place in 161 2 for the prefix London, 
 hence Londonderry, when a charter was granted 
 it in that name by James the first. The charter 
 
42 
 
 0\'r the Atlantic. 
 
 was oranted to a c()in})any of London merchants, 
 who advanced the necessary means to incorpo- 
 rate tlic city. Tlie river up to the city derived 
 its name thus : Febail-mee-Loddin, or Farel the 
 son of Loddin was drowned in the Lough, hence 
 Lough-farel or Foyh\ which means a slow floAV- 
 ing stream." 
 
 At this time the town or village consisted only 
 of one long street of huts or cabins built of 
 rough timber and nuid, and a cell or crypt plant- 
 ed here by St. Columb was then called Duible- 
 regles, or Duo-Regies (black cell), and thence to 
 IJlack Abbey Church, which was situated in the 
 dense part of the grove near to the spot on 
 which the present Roman Catholic Cathedral 
 stands, which in 1164 was torn down and rebuilt 
 much larger, and called Teampull-mor (more 
 Temple); the present parish is QTiW^^TcmpIcmore. 
 
 A great portion of the present inward city* was 
 built by the citizens of London in the reign of 
 James the first, and fortified with extensive and 
 substantial walls for defence, having no less than 
 six gates or main entrances, called respectively 
 l^i shop's gate. Ship Quay gate. New gate. Ferry 
 gate. Castle gate and Old gate. 
 
 There are two bridges across the Foyle, one a 
 very handsome structure, built of iron, and the 
 other of \vood. I make mention of those more 
 particularly, because the latter, I was informed, 
 
 * That part williiii tin- walls. 
 

 0\'r the Atlantic. 43 
 
 was built by an American in 1791, at an outlay 
 of nearly ;^2o,ooo, or $100,000; there are also 
 here a Monument and two Cathedrals, the former 
 erected to the memory of the Rev. George Wal- 
 ker, the brave and undaunted defender of the 
 city, when assailed by James the second's troops 
 in 1688. The cathedrals are of gothic architec- 
 ture, one Protestant and the other Roman Cath- 
 olic. I had the pleasure of attending divine 
 service in the former on Sunday, and was very 
 much pleased with the services, especially the 
 singing, and the high tones of a very fine organ, 
 which made the old building vibrate. In- this 
 cathedral hang some of the colors used during 
 the memorable siege. 
 
 In 1688 the city was besieged by James the 
 second for one hundred and five days, during 
 which time the inhabitants suff'ered mucli for the 
 want of the commonest necessaries to sustain 
 life ; indeed, to such extremities were they reduced, 
 that they had to partake of dogs, rats and otiier 
 ivermin to satisfy the pangs of hunger, thousands 
 dying of actual starvation. They were eventually 
 [rescued from this terrible state by the arrival of 
 ships of war loaded with provisions, &c., which, 
 after some fiofhtino- with the enemv assembled 
 t)utside the walls, succeeded in relieving them, 
 ind the next day after their arrival the enemy 
 ivas seen to be in retreat. Thus ended one of 
 :he most terrible seiges ever known, and during 
 vvhich there were killed and died of luinger 
 
44 
 
 0\-r the Afhintic 
 
 about 10,000 soldiers and citizens. Tliis was 
 during the eventful war between James the sec- 
 ond (catholic) on the one side, and William, 
 Prince of Orange (protestant), on the other. — 
 Father-in-law against son-in-law. The catholic 
 armv outside the walls was under the com- 
 mand of Lord Antrim, while the city we may 
 say was under the immediate command of 
 the Rev. (Tcorge Walker, who had been elected 
 Governor, to whose indomitable will and un- 
 flinching courage is to be attributed the success 
 of the protestant army. 
 
 There are several fine buildings here, among 
 which are the bishop's palace, on which spot the 
 old antiquated abbey stood in the early days of 
 Derry; a gothic church on James street; the 
 chapel of Ease, a plain and unassuming build- 
 ing, erected at the expense of one bishop Barnard, 
 in 1768, tlie pastor of which is paid from a fund 
 bequeathed by the bishop for that purpose. The 
 roman catholic cathedral stands on the spot 
 where stood the '' Teampidl-mor, Temple-more, 
 Cireat Church," and has in it a splendid new or- 
 gan, and a very fine altarpiece by Haydens. It 
 is built very much after the style of the protestant 
 cathedral, faced with Irish granite and decorated 
 with Scotch free-stone, and cost an enormous 
 amount of money, the amount I did not learn. — 
 i'here are also what are called meeting-houses 
 (rluirches) here, four of which are Presbyterian. 
 A large infirmary or hospital erected in 1810. A 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 45 
 
 iunatic asylum of imposing appearance. Gwyn's 
 charitible institution, affording a comfortable 
 home for male orphans, and erected from the 
 proceeds of a bequest made by a Mr. Gwyn, linen 
 merchant of tlie city. 'J1ie Foyle and Magee 
 colleges are beautiful buildings, and well worth 
 a visit. The former was built by public sub- 
 scription, while the latter was built from the 
 funds appropriated by a Mrs. Magee of Dublin 
 to build a college for tlie education of clergymen 
 for the presbyterian churcli. There are also sev- 
 eral very excellent schools here, foremost among 
 which is the national m(jdel school, a beautiful 
 gothic building, and lastly a very fine building- 
 appropriated to a library, newsroom, chamber of 
 commerce, &:c. It is here is located Mehan's 
 celebrated distillery, so well known in America 
 for its manufacture of the ''cravter" (whiskey). 
 
 I will now. before taking leave of Londonderry, 
 avail myself of the opportunity to allude to a 
 circumstance whicli transpired just as we were 
 on the eve of leaving for Belfast, and which de- 
 tained us some considerable more time in Derry 
 than we expected. It appears that the Britisli 
 Consul at New York put some document in the 
 hands of the purser of the steamer just as the 
 ship was leaving her dock, addressed to the 
 Chief of Constabulary at Londonderry, stating 
 that there was a man and his wife among^ the 
 passengers going to Derry, who, he was informed, 
 were Fenian emissaries, having in their posses- 
 
46 O'er the Atlantie. 
 
 sion iiiii)(>rtaiit documents for delivery in Ireland. 
 Wlio the man was, was not known to any person 
 on board, but on Monday morning about 
 break-fast time, tlie Commercial liotel, Avas 
 besieged with gentlemen dressed in dark 
 green cloth, equipped a la niilitairc, who guarded 
 strict! V the hotel entrances and to every room 
 therein ; trunks were ordered to be unlocked and 
 emptied of their contents, and innumerable ques- 
 tions asked, which occupied quite a time, till at 
 last a man called Birch was inquired for, and on 
 his being pointed out to tlie officer in command, 
 he was immediately put under arrest and kept a 
 strict watch over until everything he had with 
 him, and about him and his wife, had undergone 
 a rigid search, and he had rendered a good and 
 
 , satisfactory account of themselves. Nothing was 
 found or elicited justifying their detention, so 
 they were set at large, when the captain of the 
 force apologised for the inconvenience and delay 
 caused us, remarking, " but such, gentlemen, are 
 our duties. My orders are to obey even if it 
 breaks masters." Turning to me and politely 
 taking my arm he led me aside, addressing me 
 
 at the same time, "your name is W , sir, I 
 
 believe." " Yes sir," I replied. " From the descrip- 
 tion given me by Mr. Murray, the agent for the 
 
 'CAnchor Line, I took you to be the person. You 
 are one of the American local agents for the line, 
 Mr. Murray informs me." I replied, "I am." 
 ''Then sir," said lie, '* 1 will not trouble vou or 
 
I 
 
 ^ f O'er tJic AthiiiHc. 47 
 
 your lady to unlock ycnir trunks, and indeed, I 
 am of the opinion, now that I have searched this 
 man Birch, that there are no Fenians among you, 
 and I can only account for the British consul's 
 information, that this man must have had an 
 enemy Avho was determined to persecute him 
 on his arrival in this country."* He then, after 
 very politely wishing us good bye and good speed, 
 ordered his men from off the premises, and then 
 took his leave, much to the satisfaction of us all, 
 who began to pack up, lock up and strap down 
 for our journey onwards, we taking our depart- 
 ure for Belfast direct. 
 
 ■This proved to be the case, for, on his arrival liome, he 
 learned that a clerk who had been in his emplo)-, and with ^ 
 whom he had quarrelled, had done it for revenue. 
 
48 0\r the Atlantic. 
 
 LETTER IV. ^ 
 
 IRELAND, CONTIN LED. 
 
 Hklfasi". — We arrived liere after passing 
 through Coleraine, Ballynioncy, Antrim, Car- 
 rickfergus and other intermediate phices, a most 
 beautiful C(nintry, well may it be called the 
 " Emerald Isle," for a more delightful green than 
 that of the fields sown with llax, wheat, &c., never 
 was seen. Here and there we saw the peasantrv 
 at work, nujwing hay, and others cutting turf 
 and piling it up inneat piles to dry, large quan- 
 tities of which is used for fuel throughout the 
 country; and which kindles equal if not better 
 than coal. 
 
 Belfast has a po})ulation of 130,000. "This 
 great and astonishing city," writes Kolil, " with 
 all its houses and inhabitants, stands upon the 
 territory of one pro})rietor, the Marquis of 
 Dfmegal, to whom the whole town belongs and 
 to whom every citizen pays tribute." I informed 
 myself that this nobleman's income from the 
 town alcjne amounts to ^'300,000 per annum, or 
 §1,500,000. 'Die whole of this vast property is 
 
0\'r the Athmtic. 
 
 49 
 
 situated on the river Lagan, which flows into 
 Belfast Lough. The harbor, which is verv fine, 
 derived its name from the Irish Beal-nafarsad, 
 which signifies tlie '' mouth of the ford," where- 
 on the town is situated. The city is celebrated 
 for its manufacture of linen and poplin, whicli 
 gives employment to about 60,000 persons (male 
 and female.) The first Bible (i, e. in all Ireland), 
 was printed here and published in 1794. It was 
 here the oldest Irish periodical, the Weekly Mag- 
 azhie, was originally published, (see Kohl's Ire- 
 land), and at present the following newspapers 
 are published here : Be/fast A'en's Letter^ estab- 
 lished 1737, and issued now daily ; Morning Neivs^ 
 Banner of Ulster, and the Ulster Observer, all tri- 
 weekly papers. There are numerous and very 
 fine buildings in Belfast, among which I will 
 name the Museum, in College Square, in which 
 there is a very fine collection of Irish antiqui- 
 ties. Linen Hall, Donegal Square, erected in 
 1715, at a cost of ^10,000, where all the business 
 appertaining to the linen trade is managed. 
 Ulster Hall, on Bedford street, used for public 
 meetings and concerts, and will seat 3,000 per- 
 sons. In this hall is a very powerful and excel- 
 lent organ, and the front of the building is 
 adorned with six very massive columns, which 
 gives it a very imposing appearance. Then there 
 are the Music Hall, Model School, the Govern- 
 ment School of Design, and a great number of 
 churches, chapels, &c. The Queen's bridge. 
 
50 
 
 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 which now occupies the place of the great old 
 bridge, built in 1682, consisting then of twenty- 
 one arches, very much damaged by Schomberg's 
 cannon passing over it, is now an elegant struc- 
 ture, with its five arches of great length instead 
 of the old twenty-one. 
 
 The botanical garden we were informed is well 
 worthy of a visit from the stranger, especially 
 to those who are fond of flowers, plants, &c., of 
 which there is a very elegant and carefully 
 selected assortment. 
 
 We wuU now take leave of Belfast and pass 
 through Lisburn, Lurgan, Armagh, Portadown, 
 along the granite Mourne mountains, getting a 
 glimpse of Rosstrevor, Warren point and Newry 
 on our way to — 
 
 DuNDALK. — This is truly an ancient town, and 
 was at one time fortified; the ruins of the avails 
 still remain. Dundalk can boast of being the last 
 place where a monarch was crowned in Ireland. 
 This was Robert Bruce, of Scotland, who, at the 
 Irish request, came over after the battle of Ban- 
 nock-burn. He landed with a large army and 
 took Dundalk by storm, "and resided here in 
 great splendor until 1318," (Kohl's his. I.) when 
 it was retaken after a dreadful battle, or series of 
 battles by the English, and Bruce killed. 
 
 There are some distilleries, breweries and flour 
 mills located here, and the principal trade is done 
 with Liverpool. The public buildings are a fine 
 old Parish church, a handsome Roman Catholic 
 
O'er the Atlantic 
 
 51 
 
 chapel, Presbyterian and other meeting houses, 
 National bank, &c. The seat of Lord Roden is 
 open to the curious, the mansion is a very fine 
 turretted building and the grounds are beautifully 
 laid out. Having no time to spare to visit the 
 interior I have no further description to give of 
 this fine mansion. 
 
 Leaving Dundalk we proceeded on our way, 
 passing by Tcira^ the most interesting spot in all 
 Ireland. " Here the magnificent palace of Kins* 
 Cormac and his brave champions stood. The 
 place is called Temar from Teagh-mor, the Great 
 House, or Teagh-mor-ragh, the gi'eat house of the 
 King." (K. H. I.) The poet Moore sings of 
 '• Tara's Hall" : 
 
 " The harp that once through Tara's IJalls 
 
 Tlie soul of music shed, 
 Now hangs as mute on Tara's walls, 
 
 As if that soul were fled." 
 
 On we sped pass Dangan castle the birth place 
 of the hero of Waterloo (the late Duke of Wel- 
 lington) and Duleck (Damhleac) i. e. the stone 
 house, where the first stone church in Ireland 
 was built by St. Patrick in the fifth century. 
 Leaving behind us Slane and Xew Grande, we 
 arrive in — 
 
 Drogheda. This ancient town is situated on 
 the banks of the river Boyne, so celebrated in 
 Irish history, coupled with the names of James 
 the second, and William, Prince of Orange. It 
 has a population of probably 20,000 inhabitants, 
 
r. O'er the Atlantie. 
 
 one-halt' of which arc Roman Catholics, and 
 lies in the counties of Meath and Louth. The 
 town was at one time surrounded by a w^all, 
 ])ortions of which still remain, as also two of 
 tlie gateways, fine old ruins. Drogheda is 
 directly opposite Liverpool, distance 135 miles, 
 and has a very good harbor. In the days of 
 the English Commonwealth, Cromwell lead an 
 armv in person against this town and defeated 
 the garrison. Two thousand persons under 
 arms were by his orders put to the sword, 
 including the (rovernor, Sir Authur Astan — a 
 blot in the life of Cromwell never to be erased. 
 On the north side of the river stands an Obelisk, 
 erected on the battle field of the Boyne, which took 
 jjlace on the first of July, 1690, between the 
 Prince of Orange and his father-in-law, James 
 tlie second, when the latter was defeated and 
 obliged to fiy as fast as horse could carry him to 
 a seaport down the coast, where on his arrival at 
 a castle he accosted the lady who received him, 
 witli '" Madam, your Irishmen run like deer." 
 '' So I w()uld suppose, from the appearance of 
 your Majesty, who it appears has run much 
 faster." The Obelisk marks the spot where 
 William commenced the attack, as also where 
 Scliomberg, the military commander of Ireland, 
 was killed. 
 
 We will now bid adieu to Drogheda, 
 the scene of so much merciless slaughter and 
 cruelty, and push on through the quaint and old 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 53 
 
 fashioned place, Balbriggan, so celebrated for its 
 manufacture of stockings, socks, &c., remarkable 
 for their fineness and durability. One of its 
 factories has been in existence since 1797, 
 and employs 200 hands. On we go at a furious 
 rate through Swords to the village of Malahide, 
 where we get a view, while the iron horse 
 draws breath, of the fine old castle, the residence 
 of Lord Talbot de Malahide, erected principally 
 during the reign of Henry second, and also an 
 abbey of very ancient date. Hark! The guard's 
 shrill whistle is heard again, a signal for the 
 train to move on, and in a few minutes we are in 
 the great metropolis of Ireland, i. e. tlie railway 
 station, amid guards and porters lustily calling 
 out, "Dublin! Dublin!! Dublin!!!" several 
 times over, and the noise of luggage cars 
 coursing up and down the platforms. More n/ioji. 
 
54 O'rr the Aflantic. 
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 1 RF.LAMJ, CONTIXUEl). 
 
 DuBLix.— Here we arrived late at night and 
 were quickly driven in a cab to tlie An<-el Hotel, 
 on Inn's Oiiay, where we were recommended to 
 go by a gentleman whose acquaintance we made 
 on board the train fnjm Xewry. We found it not 
 exactly what we would like, but when at breakfast 
 the next morning, in the coffee room, we had the 
 pleasure of meeting and making the acquaint- 
 ance ot^ a Mr. Sause and his daughter, fnmi 
 Iroy, X. v., xvho, like ourselves, were'-afther 
 taking a look at ould Ireland." He was a native 
 ot the Green Isle, but had been absent for many 
 years and had receni.'v been on a visit to his aged 
 mother in the south. TI.ev had just come from 
 llie lakes of Killarney, and were on their wav 
 across the channel to visit Paris. We passed a 
 very pleasant time together, for our tastes and 
 ideas were similar.'-'' 
 
 S sincc'TnlrV''" ';'"'';"" "^^^^^'■••^J interviews with Mr. 
 mnSs':^'l -il^ilv:^^""^ '" acquaintance of the other 
 
O'er the Athintie. 
 
 55 
 
 The city can be reached in eleven hours from 
 London via Holyhead in North Wales, from 
 which point the Royal mail steamers leave thrice 
 daily for Kingston, thence on here by train, an 
 expeditious route, which is quite a convenience to 
 the traveling public. I will now proceed to give 
 you a brief account of the metropolis of Ireland. 
 
 It is situated on the banks of the river Liffey, 
 w^hich river runs through the centre of the city. 
 Here much of the celebrated Irish poplins are 
 manufactured, which can be purchased at from 
 5 to 6s. per yard {$1.50 in gold), and here are 
 very many fine buildings, public and commercial, 
 a few of which we visited, and among which, first 
 and foremost, I w^ill name the government house, 
 castle and chapel, (the Lord Lieutenant's place of 
 abode.) We were, in return for a small fee, 
 politely shown through the various state apart- 
 ments, by the lady and gentleman in charge 
 during his Excellency's absence in London. The 
 castle itself is not of a very imposing appear- 
 ance. It was built for the defense of the peace- 
 able inhabitants against the aggressions of 
 unruly neighbors, for nothing but strength 
 seems to be their idea in its construction. 
 There are two towers, one called the Bedford 
 and the other the Birmingham ; no access can be 
 had to either of those, for they are used as gov- 
 ernment archives. The Viceregal chapel, of 
 beautiful external and internal appearance, is 
 used bv the Lord Lieutenant and his household. 
 
56 0\r the Atlantic. 
 
 Around tlic gallery, arc carved tlic arms of tlie 
 various Lord Lieutenants from 1173 to 1814, 
 wliile those of later date are on the painted win- 
 (iows. All the seats, desks, etc., are of richly 
 carved oak, and over the altar window, which 
 represents the passion, beautifully blended in 
 colors, are elegant figures of Faith, Hope and 
 Charity. We pass from this beautiful little place 
 of worship, and enter into the Viceregal apart- 
 ments. The first room is the Presence Chamber, 
 containing the throne of the Representative of 
 Royalty, which we had the honor of seating 
 ourselves on, a circumstance, rest assured, that 
 did not improve our condition religiously, 
 morally or politically. This room is richly fur- 
 nished with hangings embroidered with gold, 
 'i'he next room Ave were taken into was the 
 Council Chamber, which contains rare and beau- 
 tiful portraits in oil, of Viceroys, commencing 
 with the Marquis Cornwallis, the same Corn- 
 -luallis who had the honor of surrendering his 
 sword, many years ago, to the " Father of his 
 country," — the immortal Washington, after which, 
 in 1800, he was made \'iceroy of Ireland, 
 with the title of Marquis. From this room we 
 l)assed into the pri\ate drawing room, gorgeously 
 furnished, and lastly into St. Patrick's hall, used 
 occasionally as a ball room. On the ceiling is a 
 large painting of George III, supported bv 
 justice and liberty, St. Patrick preaching to the 
 native Irish, and the submission of the Irish 
 
\ 
 
 O'rr the Aflantii. 57 
 
 chiefs to Henry II, one of whom is in the act of 
 delivering tlie keys of the ix)rtress to Henry. 
 After going through some other apartments, 
 richly furnished, but of no note, we took our 
 leave, and drove to see the exterior of St. Pat- 
 rick's cathedral.* This venerable pile is situated 
 on the spot where St. Patrick had a well to bap- 
 tize his converts, and there built a place of 
 worship, which stood in 890. The present 
 cathedral was partlv erected in 1190, for a por- 
 tion of it was destroyed by fire in 1362, after 
 which much was added to it by Archbishop 
 Minot in 1370; the present steeple is of this 
 date. Mr. (ruiness, the great Dublin brewer, 
 generously expended, since i860, upon this vener- 
 able building, upwards of ^100,000, or $500,000 ; 
 thus it has been nearly restored to its original 
 beauty. Taking our departure from here avc 
 went to the general post office on Sackville 
 street, and nearly opposite the Nelson monu- 
 ment. The post office is a beautiful building, 
 surmounted by figures of Hibernia, Mercy and 
 Fidelity. The Nelson monument is a fluted 
 column of 121 feet high, and cost $40,000, raised 
 among Irishmen who admired the naval genius 
 of the hero of so many battles, and who ended his 
 brilliant career Avith that of Trafalgar. We 
 afterwards visited the custom house, Trinity 
 college and other public buildings of imposing 
 and very fine architecture. 
 
 * It was not open to visitors at that time. 
 
 B* 
 
58 O'er the Atlantic. " ""^ 
 
 Next (lay we drove to Phoenix })ark in a Jaunt- 
 ini:; car, whereon you are seated back to back, over 
 the wheels, a peculiar vehicle to Ireland alone. 
 There we witnessed a sham fight, and a review of 
 the troops stationed here, a very magnificent sight. 
 There were upwards of 3,000 men underarms, the 
 music of the bands was very fine, and the move- 
 ments of both men and horses remarkably pre- 
 cise. Indeed, they seemed to move like machine- 
 ry, and a delightful place is Phoenix park. We 
 drove from there to the Zoological gardens to sec 
 the wild beasts, thence to Glasnevin cemetery, 
 where there are monuments equal to any I have 
 seen in Greenwood, New York. On our arrival 
 we were not long before our attention was 
 attracted to the spot where rest the remains of 
 the great Daniel O'Connell. They but tempor- 
 arily rest where they are at present, which is a 
 vault with an iron gateway; the massive sarco- 
 phagus rests on stands, with the large wreath of 
 evergreens and flowers used at the fu'neral laying 
 on top, and still looking remarkably fresh and 
 green. The name " O'Connell " is rudelv written 
 on a board o\er the doorway. When surveying 
 the place I could not avoid remarking to mv coni- 
 panions that -Here, indeed, lies Ireland's great 
 agitator, whose memory will remain in the hearts 
 ot his countrymen as green as the fields of their 
 native Isle." Soon the remains will be removed to 
 then- last resting place, now in course of con- 
 struction, over which is a granite round tower 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 59 
 
 160 feet high, erected in the old tower style (i. e. 
 the old Irish round tower.) It is anything but 
 beautiful, but can be seen for miles away as 
 marking the spot where rests all that was ever 
 mortal of the great agitator. The space around 
 the tower is surrounded with a deep moat, and in 
 the vault, opening into this moat, are the remains 
 of Steele, O'Connell's staunch friend. Above 
 the door is written " Plonest Tom Steele." We 
 passed away from here, and next visited the 
 tomb of Curran and other past celebrities, who 
 have gone to that distant home never to return 
 among us again. Leaving here, we proceeded to 
 the city, passing on our way the celebrated 
 Mount Joy prison, wherein ^were incarce- 
 rated the Fenian chiefs, McCafferty, Burke, 
 O'Brien* and others of the brotherhood. I cer- 
 tainly felt very much for those unfortunates, 
 doomed as they are to pass the remainder of their 
 days within prison walls, subject to the coarse ad- 
 dress and command of their keepers. McCafferty 
 I had seen in New York, when making his speech 
 as special envoy from Stephens, before a Jones' 
 Wood audience. Poor fellow, he was then full 
 of hope, and his proud and defiant eye glistened 
 when recounting, as he affirmed, his country's 
 wrongs. 
 
 After visiting St. Stephen's Green, where there 
 are fine statutes of George II. and of the Earl of 
 
 * O'Brien has been released on certain conditions, and I 
 have since made his acquaintance at Troy, N. Y. 
 
60 (yrr tin- Aflantic. 
 
 Ei>liiUun, once Viceroy of Ireland, the bank of 
 Ireland, and other places of note, we prepared to 
 leave the Emerald Isle to cross over to Wales. 
 Hut a few remarks about Ireland and its people 
 will not be inappropriate before taking my leave 
 of their country. 
 
 Ireland, no doubt, is one of the finest and most 
 fertile countries in the world, and abounds with 
 precious minerals which, with its tlax, linen and 
 other trade, is sufficient to supplv thrice the labor- 
 ing community thereat present; but while the 
 rich Irish nobility or property holders will persist 
 in going abroad to spend that which they should 
 spend among ^their tcnantrv and in the country 
 generally, but poor hopes remain for Ireland; 
 for if poverty, of wliicli I must acknowledge I 
 saw no more there than I have elsewhere,^" is to be 
 attributed to any cause whatever, it is decidedly 
 to the apathy of the rich and prodigal Irish land 
 (»wners, who suck the life blood out of their 
 tenantry by way (jf liigh rents, which money 
 they lavish in England and on the continent of 
 Europe. Such men— men of no enterprise, who 
 live for themselves alone, could do more, if thev 
 so willed it,for the jxvuniary, intellectual and mor- 
 al prosperity d the inhabitants of the soil from 
 which they gather the means to live in splendor 
 and idleness, and in return for which they Avould 
 have the gratitude, h.ve and respect of a gener- 
 ous and warm-hearted people. 
 
 The greatest poverty exists in the Southern 
 
 provinces. 
 
(9Vv' ////' Atlantic. 6i 
 
 Taking the train one fine morning early to 
 Kingston, by the way a very pretty place, where 
 we got on board a Royal mail steamer to break- 
 fast, we were in the course of a few hours safely 
 landed on the other side of the Irish channel — 
 (North Wales). 
 
62 0\r tJif Atlantii 
 
 LETTER VI. 
 
 WALES. 
 
 HoLVHEAD.— Here we staid only for a short 
 time so as to view the pier or breakwater in 
 course of erection and nearly complete, which is 
 i,ooo feet long with a light house on the extreme 
 end. This vast piece of masonry is to protect 
 and slielter vessels while at anchor from the 
 fury of wind and sea. Three government 
 steamers for the purpose of carrying mails and 
 passengers to and from Ireland leave here daily 
 for Kingston. The immense sum of ;^7oo,ooo 
 has been expended by the British government in 
 constructing and improving the harbor. The 
 Welsh name of the town is Caer Gybi, i. e. the 
 Fort of Cybi, the latter word being the name of 
 a certain saint who died here, the old church is 
 dedicated to that patron saint. On a rock three 
 miles away is a light house, called the South 
 Stack. The light is produced from twenty-one 
 lamps, with powerful reflectors, and is 212 feet 
 above low water mark. This light house is 
 erected on a rock separated from tlie main land 
 
W O'er the Atlantic. 6^ 
 
 'by a narrow channel, over which is a splendid 
 
 I iron suspension bridge, and the pathway from 
 
 I the road above to the bridge is composed of 365 
 
 steps, one for every day in the year. Pen-Caer- 
 
 Gybi, or Holyhead mountain^ is upward of 700 
 
 feet high, from the top of which I w^as informed, 
 
 a splendid view of the town and neighborhood 
 
 ; can be obtained ; but I had not the remotest 
 
 idea of carrying upwards of two hundred 
 
 pounds of flesh to such height. Before leaving 
 
 we obtained a good view of an obelisk, erected 
 
 in the distance to the memory of a Captain in 
 
 I command of one of the mail steamers, who lost 
 
 his life by being drowned, the particulars of 
 
 which I did not learn. 
 
 Caer-Gybi is of some considerable 
 antiquity, marks of which still remain. For 
 instance, the old church, where once stood an 
 ancient monastery, is surrounded with a wall of 
 Roman construction six feet thick. 
 
 We left here by the througli express train for 
 •Chester, obtaining a good sight as we steamed 
 j along of the column erected in honor of the 
 I Marquis of Anglesey, one of the heroes of 
 (Waterloo, on which field he lost a leg, also, the 
 far-famed tubular bridge across the Menai strait, 
 through which we passed, and then a tolerable 
 good view of the Menai suspension bridge in the 
 distance. 
 
 On we went at a terrible speed through Bel- 
 jmont tunnel 726 yards long, Bangor tunnel 
 
64 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 1,000 yards long, and several other smaller ones, 
 getting in the meantime, tolerably good views of| 
 Penrhyn castle,* the residence of the Hon. Col.j 
 Edward Gordon Douglass Pennant, M. P.,' 
 Beaumarris on the Anglesey coast and other 
 places of note, until we arrived on Conway 
 marsh. Away we went with a screech from^ 
 the iron horse through Conwav tunnel, 
 under the ancient Avails of the castle, emerging 
 from which, we Avere on the look out for the Old 
 Castle, Avhich we had the pleasure of seeing, 
 although traveling at the rate of 60 miles per 
 hour. Conway castle is celebrated in Welsh 
 history, and spoken of as being tlie finest at its 
 time in tlie then known world. Its walls are of 
 immense thickness, with eight circular towers,| 
 and was erected in 1284 by Edward the first, it 
 Avas not only the most magnificent, but the most 
 formidable, certainly it was in all Britain. 
 Edward and his beautiful consort, Ellen, (mother 
 of the first Prince of Wales), spent Christmas 
 merrily in this fortress. Apropos of the Prince 
 of Wales. This Prince, so desirable to tlie 
 natives of that da)-, was born in Carnarvon 
 castle, and the motto, " Ich Dien," (I serve), is a 
 corruption of " Eich Dyn," (your man.) King 
 Edward, (Edouard or lorweth), then King of 
 England, to pacify the Welsh, who were 
 
 * In this neighborhood are located the celebrated " Bur- 
 hyn Slate Quarries," which employ some 3,000 men and 
 boys. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 65 
 
 rebellions, promised them in return for their 
 allegiance that they shonld have a Prince born 
 in Wales, to whom they should owe alle- 
 giance. To fulfill which promise, the shrewd 
 King sent for his consort from London, who at 
 the time was enciente, and had her brought into 
 Wales, where she was delivered of a male 
 infant. Thus were the Welsh quieted, and 
 hence the origin of " Prince of Wales." * 
 Conway castle is now the property of the gov- 
 ernment, but held at a nominal rent by the 
 Dowager Lady Erskine. On we Avent at light- 
 ning speed, (for this train stops at no place 
 between Holyhead and Chester, 88 miles), 
 obtaining splendid views of the channel with the 
 great Ormeshead in the distance, passing through 
 or by Abergele, vSt. Asaph, Holywell, Hawarden, 
 with its castle in the distance, and in afew minutes 
 more enter the very ancient city of — 
 
 Chester. — On our arrival there we were 
 recommended to go to the Queen's Hotel, 
 adjoining the railway station, a splendid house, 
 owned by the Railway company, an elegant 
 place to stay at, but rather expensive, verifying 
 the old adage, "If you dance pay the piper." 
 The city is situated on the banks of the river 
 Dee, and is supposed to have been founded by 
 
 * Edward, when presenting the infant Prince to the 
 Welsh Chieftains, remarked : " IVele eich dyn' (Behold 
 your man), and for many years after, such was the motto on 
 the Prince's crest. 
 
66 0\r the Atlantic. 
 
 the Romans. The wall surrounding it is in an 
 excellent state of preservation,* as also are the 
 gateways, named respectively East gate, North 
 gate, Water gate and Bridge gate. A great 
 many Roman antiquities have been found here, 
 some of which I will name hereafter. The 
 Romans appear to have left it in the fifth century 
 when it became subject to British rule. In the 
 ninth century it was taken from them and 
 annexed to the Saxon crown, but shortly after- 
 wards it was taken by the Danes and nearly 
 destroyed. William, the Norman conqueror, after- 
 wards restored it, and made his nephew, Hugh 
 Lupus, Earl of Chester^\ who, it is said, repaired 
 the wall, and erected the castle to reside in. The 
 Prince of Wales, since the reign of Henry HI, 
 isjn addition to his other titles, of which he has 
 many. Earl of Chester. 
 
 It w-as here that Edward of Carnarvon received 
 the submission of the Welsh in 1309. The first 
 Royal charter was granted by Henry III, and in the 
 civil Avars of that weak monarch, Charles the 
 first. The citv was besieged and taken by the 
 Parliamentary force in 1605, at which time the 
 wall completely surrounded it, and from a 
 circular tower on the wall, Charles, King of 
 
 * The walls afTord an excellent walk of two miles around 
 the city. 
 
 •f Lupus, by authority, convened a parliament here, where 
 assembled the Barons and their chief tenants, who were 
 not bound by acts of the f^nglish Parliament. (B. G.) 
 
0\'r the Atlantic. 67 
 
 England, witnessed the defeat of bis army and 
 le success of the Parliamentary army, on 
 ■hich is the following inscription . 
 
 King Charles stood on tfiis Tower, 
 
 September 24th, 1645. 
 
 And saw his army defeated on Rowton Moor. 
 
 We visited Eton hall, the residence of the Mar- 
 
 uis of Westminister, one of the most magnificent 
 
 ^sidences in England. A charge is made for 
 
 oing so. Tickets of admission can be obtained 
 
 f a stationer in Chester, wliicli money we were 
 
 iformed is applied to charitable purposes. 
 
 [ton hall is about four miles from Chester, the 
 
 rincipal part of the distance is that through the 
 
 ark, a beautiful drive. Grosvenor Lodge, at the 
 
 itrance to the park, was erected at a cost of 
 
 JiOjOoo. It is of Gothic architecture, as also is 
 
 |ie mansion. On our arrival there we Avere 
 
 10 wn through the house by a person in attend- 
 
 ice for that purpose, which was gorgeous 
 
 id grand, furniture, tapestry and ornaments 
 
 iiing of the richest kind, and the paintings, 
 
 I atuary, were by , the most celebrated masters. 
 
 I he walls and ceilings were beautifully frescoed. 
 
 I fter going through that part of the interior 
 
 3en to the public, we were taken and shown 
 
 'le stables, carriage houses, carriages, harness, 
 
 c, but no horses, there being none kept in the 
 
 ables, owing to the family's absence in London. 
 
 ne of the under gardeners then took us in 
 
 large and escorted us over the gardens and 
 
68 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 pleasure grounds, the latter beautifully and 
 artistically laid out with all kinds of flowers. 
 Before taking our leaA'e we were shown a Gothic 
 temple recently erected for the reception of a 
 Roman altar, found, as I remarked heretofore 
 near Chester, and some mosaic pavement from 
 tiie palace of the Emperor Tiberius. We then, 
 after feeing his Lordship's servants, ^vhich they 
 always look for, and for which they bow^ and 
 scrape a great deal, touching their hats or pulling 
 at a lock of hair every time they speak to you or 
 answer a question, quite a novelty to Americans, 
 bade adieu to this magnificent mansion with its 
 gorgeous furniture and rare works of art, and 
 drove back to Chester, to take a look at the old 
 Cathedral ; but before giving you an account of 
 Avhat we saw there, T will give you some idea of 
 the immense wealth of the Marquis of Westmin- 
 ster. I w^as informed by a gentleman, whose 
 acquaintance I made, tliat this nobleman is 
 actually in receipt of ;jj;2, 250,000 per annum, 
 which will shortly be more than trebled by the 
 passing into his hands on the expiration of 
 leases, immense and very valuable property in 
 London. The whole of Belgravia, Pimlico, 
 Westminster, and the greater part of Fulham, 
 will pass into his hands. Those places consti- 
 tute the greater portion of the *' West End," the 
 finest and most aristocratic part of London, thus 
 adding an immense and most incalculable amount 
 of W'Calth to his present income, which altogether 
 
O'er f/ie Atlantic. 69 
 
 s not less than five dollars per minute, a sum 
 juite sufficient for any economical and respect- 
 ible American to live and die on. We will now 
 eave this old fellow to roll in his wealth and 
 proceed to give a brief account of the very 
 mcient Chester cathedral. It stands on the site 
 )f the Saxon Monastery of St. Wesburgh, 
 bunded in 660. The present building, or rather 
 oarts of it, was built in the reign of Henry the 
 5th, 7th and 8th. We were very much struck 
 ^vith the beauty and imposing appearance of 
 .his venerable old structure, with its massive and 
 :rumbling walls. We were shown a very exten- 
 •;ive and elaborate piece of needle work, many 
 :enturies old, an altar screen, and the elaborate 
 :arving of the wood work must be seen to be 
 ippreciated, when it cannot fail to command 
 admiration ; and among many other and curious 
 relics, we were shown a copy of the scriptures 
 written on parchment with the pen in 11 13, and 
 in an excellent state of preservation. After 
 feeing the venerable and polite old gentleman 
 who accompanied us around the building, we 
 took our leave, and requested Mr. Bow-and- 
 scrape (the driver), which was answered with a 
 pull of the hair and a few affected gutteral 
 sounds, to drive us back to the hotel. Fatigued 
 we certainly were, but satisfied with what we had 
 seen. So after partaking of a hearty meal we 
 retired to our rooms and were soon locked in the 
 hands of Morplieifs. 
 
70 O'er the Atlantie. 
 
 Before leaving Chester 1 must say a little of 
 the old town itself, especially of some of the old 
 buildings still standing in some parts of the city 
 These old structures have a very picturesque 
 appearance with their gable ends toward the 
 street, high pointed roofs and small diamond pane 
 windows (all framed buildings) with elaborate, 
 carved gables in good preservation, built so that 
 you can walk along the sidewalks with the 
 second floor over your head, thus protecting 
 pedestrians from the inclemency of the weather. 
 Wise old fellows were our forefathers. 
 
 There but little remains of the castle, although 
 at one time a noble structure. Large barracks 
 have been erected adjoining the old tower which 
 contains 50,000 stand of arms, besides 125 pieces 
 of ordnance. There are several fine public 
 buildings, among which I may name the Shire 
 hall (court house), the Grosvenor and Queen's 
 liotel, and the railway station, the latter a very 
 large and commodious building, built of hard, 
 dark-faced brick. The station is the central 
 terminus for the London & Northwestern, Birk- 
 enhead & Chester, Lancashire & Chester, and 
 Chester & Holyhead Railways. Tlius there is 
 communication with all parts of the United 
 Kingdom. Opposite the barracks is an eques- 
 trian statue, partially uncovered, (it not being 
 yet made public), who it represents I did not 
 learn. Whoever it mav be, it is a fine work of 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 71 
 
 art, and will add much to the appearance of the 
 city. 
 
 Leaving this ancient place we took our seats in 
 the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway cars, pas'^^ing 
 through Wrexham, where we had an excellent 
 view of the old church and its tow^er, erected in 
 1742. The latter is 134 feet high and of exquisite 
 workmanship, decorated with statues of various 
 saints placed in niches from top to bottom. 
 Aw^ay we went at the rate of fifty miles an hour 
 past Ruabon and Llangollen, the latter the birth 
 place of Jenny J ones ^ the maid of Llangollen, 
 rendered so famous in song. We see Chirk 
 castle in the distance, founded in 1013. In this 
 castle is the state bed in which Charles the first 
 slept, and a beautiful cabinet presented by him to 
 the then residing family. The adjacent valley 
 is the scene of conflict between the armies of 
 Henry the second, and that of the Welsh Prince, 
 Owain Gwynedd, the brave Prince of 1165. 
 Still on at great speed leaving Oswestry to 
 the right until we arrive at Shrewsbury. 
 
72 O^er the Atlantic. 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 WALES, CONTINUED. 
 
 Shrewsbury. — Here we stay but an hour, 
 affording us but a short time to h)ok around. 
 Its ancient name was Pengwern, and is situated 
 upon the banks of the river Severn. William 
 the Conqueror gave this town to Roger de Mont- 
 gomery, one of his followers, together with the 
 title of earl, w^ho erected here a strong baronial 
 castle. In 1403 a desperate battle was fought 
 near tlie town between the forces of Ilenrv I\' 
 and that of the rebel Earl of Northumberland, 
 under the command of Lord Percy, surnamed 
 Hotspur, when the death of the latter gave the 
 victory to the Royalists. The old buildings are 
 similar to those described at Chester, and are in 
 an excellent state of preservation. Some of the 
 Royal charters were granted by Richard I and 
 Charles I. Flannel, flax, thread and linen facto- 
 ries are located there, doing a thriving trade. 
 
 Taking our seats once more in the cars we left 
 this ancient town and proceeded on our journev 
 through Ludnow, getting a glimpse of the old 
 
O'er the Atlixntic. 73 
 
 castle Jis wc went past, c^n through Leamington, 
 until we arrived in — 
 
 Hereford, — This fine old city is situated on 
 the banks of the river Wye. The cathedral, a 
 very classic building, dates from 825. Destrov- 
 ed by fire in 1074, it was rebuilt and completed 
 in 1 1 20. Its line tower was added to it about 120 
 years ago. In this city was born N'ell Gzuyn, the 
 favorite of Charles II, and David Garrick, the 
 great actor, in the year 17 16, in an old house now 
 standing, called the Angel Inn. On the castle 
 green, where formerly stood an ancient castle, of 
 which no vestige remains, is a stone column sixtv 
 feet high, erected to commemorate the victories o 
 Admiral Lord Viscount Nelson, the hero of Tra- 
 falgar. Several factories for the manufacture of 
 flannel, gloves, hats, &c., are at work, and the 
 population is about 17,000. On we went to — 
 
 Arerg.4vennv. — This pretty little town is 
 situated near tlie river L^sk, surrounded by high 
 mountains, and was formerly walled in. In the 
 1 neighborhood are the ruins of an old castle and 
 monasterv, built some time after the Norman 
 conquest. The high mountains in tlie vicinity 
 are the Sugarloaf, 1,852 high; Blarenge, 1,720 
 ifeet ; Skirrid-fach, 765 feet. It is substantially a 
 Welsh town, although situated on the English 
 side of the boundary.* The very extensive coal 
 
 * Chester, Shrewsbury and Hereford are now also on the 
 English side of the boundary, although classed herein as 
 I Welsh towns. 
 
74 O'er the Ailautie. 
 
 and iron works of Blaenavon, and other works 
 are in the neighborhood, thus contributing 
 material increase to the general business of the 
 place. 
 
 We will now put tlie iron horse once 
 more in motion and proceed on our journey, 
 passing Pontypool, where there are extensive 
 iron and tin w^orks, over the great Crumlin 
 viaduct which spans the Ebw Vale at the village 
 of Crumlin. This vast structure is composed of 
 open light iron work, of which there are ten 
 spans, each measuring 150 feet, with pieces of 
 iron girded 204 feet high. The whole cost of it 
 was ^40,000 or ^200,000, a small sum when com- 
 pared with the magnitude of the luidertaking, 
 which has to be seen to be appreciated. On we 
 go through Aberdare, noted for its very extensive 
 coal works, steaming through the beautiful 
 Vale of Neath (Cwmnedd) until we arrive in the 
 fast improving town of — 
 
 Neath, — Called by the Welsh, Castelucdd, a 
 place of great antiquity, situated on the banks of 
 Neath river, is one of the most flourishing towns 
 in South Wales. 
 
 The old castle, once the property of Jestyn aj) 
 Gwrgan (Jestyn the sOn of Gwrgan,) Lord of 
 Morganwg^ was burned in 1231, by Llewellyn 
 ap* lorweth, and of which now but little remains 
 but the vast and extensive ruins of Neath Abbey, 
 
 * Ap signifies son of 
 
O'er the Atlaniie. 
 
 75 
 
 called by Lelaud "the fairest in all Wales," de- 
 serves from the tourist more than a passing 
 remark. This fine old building was completed 
 by Richard de Granville (who after the conquest 
 came into possession of the castle), and dedicat- 
 ed it to the Holy Trinity, placing therein a 
 small community of Grey Friars, and giving 
 tliem large possessions for their maintenance 
 It was at this Monastery the unfortunate 
 Edward III found temporary shelter in 1326, a 
 short time before he lost his kingdom and life. 
 The structure is built of walls of great thickness, 
 composed of native stone, with the corners and 
 embellishments of a sort of cement, which in its 
 present appearance resembles white sand or free- 
 stone, and is equally as hard if not more so. 
 The walls of the Abbot's house with parts of the 
 Chapter house and refectory remain — the latter 
 with its heavy and high pointed arches, massive 
 pillars and large fire place and stone mantel, is 
 still in a good state of preservation. And I mav 
 say that here, amid the roar of furnaces, clanking 
 of hammers, the humming of the cold blast fan, 
 and the puffing and whistling of the iron horse 
 on the South Wales and Vale of Neath Rail- 
 ways, and in spite of the ravages of time, of 
 war, and weather, there still stand vast portions 
 of this once extensive and magnificent building, 
 a solitary memento of the past ages and the genius 
 of the people of those days. We will now raise 
 our hat to old Neath Abbey and proceed to— 
 
76 O'er the Atlantic, 
 
 Bridgend. — We made but a very short stay- 
 here ; having hired what is called a trap by the 
 natives, a term quite as appropriate as rigging, 
 a vehicle on two wheels, whereon we sat back to 
 back, we proceeded to St. Donat's, nine miles 
 distant. While there we were entertained at the 
 house of the mother of an American friend 
 and neighbor, where we passed a pleasant hour 
 or two. We failed to obtain admission into the 
 castle for the want of admission cards from Dr 
 Carnc, the present proprietor or lessee, resident 
 three miles from the place, so had to content our- 
 selves with a sight of its outward walls, and a 
 splendid marine view, o'erlooking the Bristol 
 channel. The castle is of Norman architecture. For 
 684 years it remained in possession of a family 
 called Straddling, and afterwards in that of the 
 name of Drake, no doubt descendants of Sir 
 Francis Drake, the celebrated Admiral of Queen 
 Elizabeth's reign, and the hero of the Spanish 
 Armada invasion. I was informed that the car- 
 ving, &c., of the interior is very fine. Near tu 
 the castle and covered with foliage, is the old 
 church, while a portion of an old watch tower 
 occupies a position on the opposite hill looking 
 towards the sea. Until the light house near by 
 was erected, many were the wrecks which 
 occurred in this neighborhood, of wliich are told 
 heart-rending and strange stories. Portions of 
 unfortunate vessels can be seen in and around 
 the village at this day. In the churchyard is an 
 
O'er the Atlantic, 77 
 
 ancient stone cross of great elegance. The 
 castle and church figured much in the reigns of 
 Elizabeth and James I. Having seen all that we 
 could of antiquated St. Donat's, we bade adieu 
 to our newly acquired friends and retraced our 
 way back to Bridgend, where we took the train 
 for — 
 
 MoRRisTON.— Here we will halt for a few days 
 although the place has nothing to recommend it 
 to the tourist, it being simply a portion of the 
 borough of Swansea ( Abertawe), of which we shall 
 speak of next, but some relatives of the writer 
 residing here we will have to sojourn among 
 them for a season ; indeed, we are now among 
 (as the scriptures sayeth) " our own people," so 
 we will have to tarry frequently as we go along. 
 
 Swansea, — The principal town of South Wales, 
 is beautifully situated between lofty hills on the 
 banks of the river Tawe, from which it derives 
 its name in Welsh, Abertawe. Its population is 
 perhaps 60,000 to 70,000 persons, and is increas- 
 ing rapidly in commerce and size. 
 
 Here are the largest copper works in the world, 
 of which the Messrs. Vivian are the proprietors. 
 There are also extensive copper and silver works 
 owned by other equally enterprising persons; 
 for instance, that owned by a Mr. Lambert, from 
 Chili, South America, and several very large 
 Ton and tin works, patent fuel Avorks, potteries, 
 kc. Large floating docks for the accommodation 
 3f shipping have within the last ten vears been 
 
78 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 constructed. Indeed, such have been the im- 
 provements made within a score of years, that 
 one who lias been absent for tliat time would 
 scarcely know tiie })lace at present. 
 
 Swansea carries on an extensive trade in cop- 
 per ore with Chili, South America, and the island 
 of Cuba, in the West Indies, which, when manu- 
 factured into copper, is shipped to London and 
 Liverpool, and from there to all parts of the 
 world. It is also a delightful watering place; a 
 fine sandy beach and plenty of sea-water for bath- 
 ing, attracts numerous visitors to this enterprising 
 town during the summer months, thus augment- 
 ing its w^ealth and resources. 
 
 The castle, of which but a portion remains, is 
 said to have been erected bv one Henry Beau- 
 mont, Earl of Warwick, a Norman leader of 
 1 1 13, adjoining which has recentlv been erected 
 a very handsome building bv the government 
 for a post-office. The castle, in which the volun- 
 teers hold their drills, is the property of the duke 
 of Beaufort, as baron of Ciower. There are also 
 many fine public and commercial buildings here, 
 among Avhich I may name the town hall or court 
 house, a beautiful (xrecian structure; the roval 
 institution of South Wales, an elegant building 
 which contains a valuable librarv ; museum ol 
 arts and sciences; museum of antiquities, a visit 
 to which will be most interesting to the stranger 
 and tourist. There are also very massive build- 
 ings erected from native stone, hewn rock work^ 
 
0\r the Atlantic. 79 
 
 for instance, the House of Correction or Goal, 
 Union Poor House, Infirmary, House of Indus- 
 try, Normal School, Music Hall, Gas-works, &c., 
 all on a gigantic scale and substantially erected, 
 as if to last for ages to come. A few miles 
 from Swansea is a pretty little watering place 
 called Oyster-mouth, by some the Mumbles, a 
 delightful place to pass away a few weeks or 
 months during the summer weather. We visited 
 twice here an old friend of the w^riter, a Mr. G. 
 Bowen, who, with his family, had taken up their 
 residence there for the summer, during which 
 time w^e enjoyed ourselves very much. 
 
 Mumbles is a small but romantic village, with 
 its beach washed by the tidal waters of the Swan- 
 sea bay, built at the foot of very bold high cliffs, 
 (limestone cliffs). The " Mumbles head" is a 
 bold rocky projection against which the waters 
 of the bay dash with more or less fury, accord- 
 ing to the weather, and on which a fine light- 
 house is erected, surrounded with a fort, thus 
 affording not only protection, but security 
 amid perils to the benighted mariner. This 
 bay is not surpassed by any other on the British 
 coast for sheltering vessels from the fury of sea 
 and wnnd ; indeed, the Avriter of these lines has 
 often, years ago, had to avail himself of the 
 friendly shelter which this little bay affords the 
 mariner. Oystermouth castle is a very fine old 
 I building, erected by Henry Beaum.ont, whom I 
 have had occasion to name (Earl of Warwick) 
 
8o ' ^ ■ O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 more than once in tliis journal, as one of tlie 
 followers of William the Norman Conqueror. 
 It has a majestic appearance, standing as it 
 does on a high hill, thus enabling it to be seen a 
 long way off. It is the property, like the Swan- 
 sea castle, of the Duke of Beaufort. The Mum- 
 bles is noted for its fisheries, and there are up- 
 wards of 4,000 men employed in the oyster 
 fisheries alone. Apropos of oysters, the Mimible 
 oysters, though reckoned very fine, do not come 
 lip to our Shrewsbury, Blue Point or East river, 
 S3rved up at a Broadway oyster saloon or in 
 Fulton market. They have quite a different 
 taste, a taste which the New-Yorker would cer- 
 tainly not approve of. It is a rough tincture of 
 iron, and copperish taste, which can be retained in 
 the mouth for an hour after partaking of them. 
 We will now bid a final adieu to our kind friend 
 and his intelligent family, and leave the Mumbles 
 with its gay visitors, and request vou to accom- 
 pany us to Llanelly 
 
O'er the Atlanlii. 81 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 
 WALES, CONTINUED. 
 
 Llanelly. — In this tOAvn the writer spent the 
 greater portion of his youthful days, and 'twas 
 here he took to himself that partner who, for 
 eighteen years, shared with him the ups and 
 downs of life — some of whicli were anything but 
 cheering — but to the point. Llanelly, althougli 
 it cannot boast, like some of the neighboring 
 townis, of much antiquity, indeed none, is never- 
 theless a live town, and ranks as the largest and 
 most flourishing town in the county of Carmar- 
 then, and excepting Swansea, Cardiff, and per- 
 haps Newport, I may say in South Wales. And 
 surrounded as it is with numerous and extensive 
 collieries, together with large copper, lead, tin, 
 silver, iron and other works, it bids fair to be- 
 come second to no other town in the principalitv. 
 Much of its prosperity is to be attributed to the 
 indomitable will and energy of the firm of Sims, 
 Willyams, Neville, Druce & Co., the w^ealthy 
 proprietors of the very extensive copper smelting 
 and lead works located here, which, inclusive of 
 
^2 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 their collieries, (not a few) gives employment to 
 many tlioiisands of the inhabitants. This enter- 
 prising firm have had one continual run of pros- 
 perity for upwards of thirty years, thus enabling 
 them to double, nay, treble their operations dui^ 
 ing tliat time. The situation of the harbor is 
 admirably adapted for carrying on an extensive 
 commerce, and so soon as the large floating dock 
 now^ in contemplation is completed, the facilities 
 for doing a shipping trade will be very much in- 
 creased. So far as the town is concerned, I may 
 say the same of it as of Swansea. Such has been 
 the vast improvements made here during the last 
 fifteen years, that one absent from the place 
 during that period would scarcely know it.— 
 Streets have been formed, houses and factories 
 erected where there was notliing but green fields 
 and barren wastes a few years ago. A very fine 
 market place has been recently erected on the 
 site formerly known as Chamber's Park, and if 
 it has any fault at all it is that of being too large, 
 i. e. to supply the wants of the town and neigh- 
 borhood for twenty years hence. Market places 
 in England and Wales are verv fine structures, 
 such as I have not seen elsewliere. Every town , 
 of note has its neatly erected market place, where, ' 
 on a certain day of tlie week, are exposed for 
 sale goods of domestic manufacture, principally j 
 farm produce, such as grain, meat, butter, cheese, ' 
 fruits, &c., each and every department being sep- 
 arate and distinct from the other, and to accom- 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 83 
 
 modate which, neat and admirably arranged 
 stalls, covered in, are erected for the purpose of 
 exposing such articles for sale, which stalls are 
 constructed to form a square, in the centre of 
 which is the market-keeper's dwelling and clock 
 tower, erected of hewn stone, as if to last for 
 ages untold, with wide entrance gates. Thus 
 the market, w^hen not in use, ceases to be a place 
 of public thoroughfare, and they are well attend- 
 ed by high and low, rich and poor, who sell and 
 buy fairly and honestly. The Llanelly market- 
 place, as in fact all others generally are, is the 
 property of the Llanelly local board of health, 
 wdiich is simply the people, an institution of 
 men chosen by the inhabitants to administer the 
 laws and regulations for the government of the 
 borough. Shrewd business men, elected to hold 
 the office for honor and not for pay, a toll is col- 
 lected of the various holders of market stalls on 
 each market day by a collector appointed for the 
 purpose, who is also in some towns, market 
 keeper, which money, like rates and other muni- 
 cipal taxes, is deposited with the treasurer of the 
 board to be used for no other purpose than for 
 matters connected with the borough. How 
 faithfully those monies are expended the well 
 paved, clean streets, and sanitary condition of 
 the towns plainly answer, Honestly ! 
 
 The Atheneum and Neville memorial com- 
 bined, is a noble building, and exteriorly does 
 credit to the architect and builder; but I cannot 
 
84 O'er the Atlantic, 
 
 say as much of the interior, a rather botched up 
 arrangement, to my idea, being not what it 
 should, and could be, had the controlling powers 
 desired it ; the Neville memorial recently added 
 to the Atheneum, (additional rooms,) used for a 
 museum, &c., and a square tower, built of native 
 stone in rock work, dedicated to the memory of 
 Richard Janion Neville, Esq., late the managing 
 partner of S. W. N. D. & Co., to whom the 
 inhabitants of Llanelly owe much for their com- 
 mercial, intellectual and moral prosperity. We 
 will say no more of this town, but bid it and the 
 remainder of old friends and acquaintances a 
 long farewell, perhaps forever; for how very 
 many, did I find upon my advent among them, 
 had gone to "that bourne from which no traveler 
 returns." How forcibly do the words occur to 
 me, that "in the midst of life we are in death;" 
 for some very dear old friends had, but a few 
 days prior to our arrival, paid their last tribute 
 on earth. We are but sojourners, here to-day and 
 gone to-morrow, and as time is precious, we Avill 
 bid adieu once more to the living of Llanellv, 
 wishing them all the health, prosperity and hap- 
 piness this old world can afford, and passing 
 through Burry Port and Pembrcy,thriving places, 
 land ourselves in the ancient town of 
 
 Kidwelly. — Tliis old fashioned place, although 
 small, is one of the towns of former days, those 
 days when Llanelly and other growing towns 
 were nowhere. It is a market town and under 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 85 
 
 the provisions of its charter, has its mayor and 
 subordinate officers, like those of the city of 
 IvOndon, who meet upon certain occasions clothed 
 in scarlet robes of office, amid much pomp and 
 ceremony. Old Kidwelly, or Cathwelli^ was for- 
 merly surrounded by walls with three or more 
 gates, one of which, together with many of the 
 old houses, are yet standing, defying time and 
 weather. It is not a place of much trade, a small 
 tin works being the only works of any note 
 in operation at present; perhaps there are not 
 1,500 inhabitants in the place, and if it was not 
 for the grand and extensive old castle, ranking 
 as one of the finest in Wales, the place would 
 scarcely be worth visiting. 
 
 The castle stands on a rocky eminence over- 
 looking the town, and the river Gwendraeth, and 
 was built by one of the Beaumonts, so popular 
 after the Conquest; it is now a large and impos- 
 ing ruin in tolerable preservation, with some of 
 its apartments entire, and flights of steps not 
 very much injured. The w^est gateway is a noble 
 specimen of architectiu'e, and some of the towers 
 at the angles retain their arched roofs of stone. 
 From the battlements a good view may be had 
 of Carmarthen bay and the country around. — 
 There is also an ancient church here fast falling 
 to decay, and not far from it the ruins of an old 
 priory of great age. From Kidwelly we went to 
 a pretty little place called Ferryside, very much 
 frequented by persons desirous of good sea bath- 
 
86 O'er the Atlantie. 
 
 ing. Here we spent a pleasant day or two, and 
 enjoyed ourselves very much, for the fare at the 
 White Lion hotel is not to be sneezed at. Direct- 
 ly opposite Ferryside is another pretty Avatering 
 place called Llanstephan ; both places are situated 
 on the banks of the river Towey. 
 
 Llanstephan, — i. e. St. Stephen's Church, has 
 a sainted well formerlv in liigh repute, but is so 
 noticed, chiefly on account of the picturesque 
 and venerable ruins of its once very fine castle. 
 Crowning the summit of a bold hill, the base of 
 which is washed by the tidal waves, stands this 
 majestic old ruin, its walls hoary with age. It 
 was formerly surrounded with earthen ramparts, 
 w^as built by Uchtryd, Prince of Meirion in 1138, 
 but it soon fell into the hands of the Normans 
 apd Flemings. From them it was taken by 
 Gruffydd ap Rees, Prince of South Wales, and 
 from whom the foreigners were totally unable 
 to recover it. In the neighborhood, and over- 
 looking the river, is the elegant mansion of one 
 Sir James Hamilton. While here we were not a 
 little amused with the freaks and antics of a score 
 of donkeys and their drivers. The females 
 dressed in the primitive style of Welsh costume, 
 which is simply flannel of domestic manufacture, 
 wove in a variety of patterns, that of the red, 
 white and yellow stripe on blue background 
 being the most used. The dress is made quite 
 short, showing off a neat, w-ell-trimmed ankle, 
 and Avell-made shoe and stocking. Some of 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 87 
 
 the better class and others, on the Sabbath and 
 holiday, wear lace caps, very nicely got up, and 
 on top of the head is a tall crowned silk beaver 
 hat, Avith wide brim, tapering slightly from the 
 brim to the crown. Tlie most youthful and gay 
 wear this hat alone, without cap, instead of 
 which the hair is dressed similar in style to that 
 adopted of late by the American ladies; but the 
 Welsh ladies don't wear the hat on the forehead, 
 but on the head, nor do I think that they have 
 resource to artificial means to increase the size of 
 — I forget what it is called, let me think — well, 
 it is immaterial, for most of my readers will un- 
 derstand what I have reference to, many will smile 
 at the primitive style of dress; but let me en- 
 deavor to assure them that a Welsh woman, 
 attired so, seated on horseback with a market 
 basket on her lap, or walking with market basket 
 on her head, well loaded, and perhaps an infant 
 in her arms, with lier hat tied to the strings of 
 her apron, blooming with the real color of 
 health, is as pretty, charming and happy as the 
 gaily attired and fashionable lady of the season. 
 
 Women and children are those generally engaged 
 in the gathering of cockles from the sands, where 
 they are found in plenty. The cockle is a small 
 shell-fish, similar in taste (but more delicate) to 
 the American clam. They are found imbedded* 
 some two inches in the sand, their location indi- 
 cated by two small breathing holes, and in large 
 quantities in North and South Wales, during the 
 
88 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 hours between low water and the coming in of 
 the tide, some scores of women and children are 
 daily engaged in thisbusiness,until their sacks and 
 baskets are filled, when they are thrown across 
 the donkey's back and driven home to be pre- 
 pared for market ; some unshelled and some 
 shelled, are taken and shipped to the larger 
 towns of the interior. Indeed, I have seen the 
 Welsh cockles figuring largely in the markets of 
 London, Bristol and Manchester, wdiere they are 
 considered an article of luxury. We will now re- 
 trace our steps via. Llanelly, and land ourselves 
 in — 
 
 LouGHOR. — Here the writer first saw the light, 
 and got his first scholastic tln'ashing (not for 
 good behavior) from the curate of the parish 
 church, w^ho acted in the capacity of schoolmas- 
 ter during the week days. In tlie old churchyard 
 are interred the remains of most cf his relatives 
 on his mcther's side, and the remains of hi,s 
 father and two brothers, so he cannot but stay to 
 pay a passing tribute to the place of his nativity, 
 where lay all that was once mcrtal of those so 
 nearly allied to him. Loughor, or as it is called 
 in Welsh, " Castell Llwc/iwr,'' is situated on the 
 bank of the river Llwchwr, which divides the 
 counties of Glanmorgan and Carmarthen, and now 
 .spanned by two bridges, one for the South Wales 
 railway traffic, and the other for turnpike traffic. 
 Collieries, copper, zinc and glass works are in 
 the neighborhood, but onlv the former are in op- 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 89 
 
 enition at present. Indeed it has nothing but its 
 antiquity to recommend it to the traveler and 
 tourist at the present time. Says the liistorian : 
 '* It is supposed to be the Leucarum of Antonius, 
 and the fifth Roman station on the road called 
 Julia Stratta." A portion of the old castle, a 
 large square building, situated on a mound, sur- 
 rounded by a double trench for defense, still 
 remains. It was built in 1099, destroyed by the 
 sons of Gruffydd ap Rees in 11 15, and rebuilt by 
 Hugh le Despenser in the time of Edward II. 
 An old house called the Sanctuary, still standing, 
 formerly belonged to the Knights of Jerusalem. 
 
 The old town had undergone but little change 
 since my boyhood's days. The veteran castle, 
 although hoary with age, and then, as now, clad 
 with ivy, a stale old ruin, appeared to have as 
 much of it left as when the boys and girls 
 assembled to play hide and seek within its walls, 
 or climbed up its lofty tower to get a glimpse of 
 the river and the country around, forty years ago. 
 The old parish church remained about as it was 
 when I attended church (much against my incli- 
 nation) with my dear old granny, and the high 
 built pew which prevented me from gazing at 
 the congregation, with the massive stone tablet 
 secured to the whitewashed wall directly above 
 it, giving the dates of the demise of some of my 
 ancestors, brought the past forcibly to my mind, 
 when I thought the sermon given by the worthy 
 curate would never end, and when nature had at 
 
90 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 last to give way for the lack of something more 
 interesting to my young mind than his logical 
 remarks, I began to nod, and nod, nod, nodding, 
 fell fast asleep, to wake up with the loud congre- 
 gational singing which closed the morning ser- 
 vice. Ah ! those were happy days ; never to be 
 forgotten in this Avorld ! 
 
 Then the old churchyard, or burial ground ; 
 yes, reader, there had a change taken place 
 there; yes, the past thirtv years had filled it, I 
 may say, almost to its utmost capacity. Manv 
 had sought it as their final resting place, and 
 scores of my acquaintances slept soundly beneath 
 its green sward. The old and the young had 
 been called away. Some of the former had lived 
 to a ripe old age, and had but recently bade 
 adieu to the living. It w^as a sad sight, and I 
 could not refrain from shedding a copious flood 
 of tears as I dimly gazed at the tombs and liead- 
 stones, surrounded with beautiful flowers, Avhich 
 marked the resting place of many Avell-known to 
 me in my younger days. Near by laid the old 
 fisherman Cadwaladr, who carried me oftentimes 
 on his back across the ford or into his boat, while 
 I watched with wonder and admiration the large 
 hauls of fish he caught, and presented me with one 
 to take home. Poor old fellow ! he was a kind, 
 good-hearted old man. Before leaving that hal- 
 lowed and venerable spot, with its tombstones 
 dating centuries back, and now crumbling to de~ 
 cav, I purchased, and had the pleasure to super- 
 
O'er the Atlautie. 91 
 
 intend the erection of a head stone at the head 
 of my brother's grave. He sleeps well by the 
 side of my father and infant brother, while my 
 mother lies among strangers, thousands of miles 
 apart; but I added her dear name also to those 
 which lie separated in the flesh, in the old church- 
 yard at Loughor, but not in the spirit. 
 
 Wliat more can I tell my readers of the place 
 of my nativity that would be interesting.^ Yes, 
 I can tell them tiiat I visited the house where I 
 first saw the light, and wherein I spent the haj)- 
 piest days of my life, visited some of my relatives* 
 resident there, and I saw and conversed with 
 many I knew, who gazed with wonder, and in- 
 deed, I may say, admiration at my portly figure, 
 wondered if I was not deceiving them, and 
 seemed surprised to see in the gray haired man, 
 the bov of fourteen, so familiar to their recollec- 
 tion. vSaid one old lady, who kept a small store 
 wherein she weighed and sold sugar by the quarter 
 pound, tea by the quarter ounce, aud tallow candles 
 bv the twelfth of a dozen. '' Dear me I indeed to 
 
 goodness ! are you W W .^ And they 
 
 tell me vou can spake Welsh as good as when a 
 
 boy." " Yes, auntie B h," said I, ''I am he, 
 
 and can speak Welsh, to forget my native tongue 
 would be to me blasphemy ; and he that could' 
 it had been better he never were born." Said 
 
 * There were but two sisters of my mother (two elderly 
 hulies) living, of my grandfather's family, but there are 
 ([uite a number of cousins. 
 
92 O'ei' the Atlantic. 
 
 the old lady, "well, well I we have had several 
 young men leave here for a few years only, and 
 come back with nothing but Scesneg (English)." 
 •'It is all nonsense, auntie," said I; "no person 
 well versed in the mother tongue can for- 
 get it. Those persons you allude to, I suppose, 
 sought to impress you and others that the pecu- 
 liarity of the atmosphere abroad, deprived them of 
 the language in which they first lisped the word 
 mother, or else they thought it degrading to a 
 man who had visited foreign climes, to speak his 
 native tongue; how foolish, how absurd, is it 
 not.'*" "Yes, indeed," she replied. The old lady 
 closed the conversation by remarking that ''she 
 had always protested it Avas pride, tliat the igno- 
 rant fellows supposed they were raising them- 
 selves in the estimation of their neighbors bv 
 pretending that thev could not hold converse in 
 Cymraeg (Welsh ), and that even their English was 
 none of the best; quite the reverse." I remarked, 
 "rather say they lowered themselves in the esti- 
 mation of every person of good common sense." 
 We will now take the Llanelly and Llandilo 
 railway, now connected with the \'ale of Towy 
 railway, and proceed into the interior of the 
 county of Carmarthen, and as we steam along, 
 take a passing glimpse of Castell Carreg-Cennen 
 (Cennen Stone Castle), erected on the summit of 
 a bold rock 450 feet high, about A. D. 1200. It 
 Vv'as a fortress of some note about the years 1248 
 and 1250, when it was taken and retaken from 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 93 
 
 the English by Rees ap Fvchan. a renowned 
 j Welsh Warrior. 
 
 Llaxdilo-Fawk. or Great Llandilo. so called 
 to distinguish it from other places of the same 
 name in Wales. St. Teilo, to whom the parish 
 is dedicated, is coupled with Dewi (or David) 
 and Padarn (or Badam) in the Welsh Triads, as 
 the "three holy visitors to Britain." The old 
 fortress, called Strah-Towy castle, surrendered 
 to the English in 1277, and was destroyed bv 
 them, but there still remains an old relic of the 
 I past in the classical old ruin of Dynevor castle, 
 the property of the Rt. Hon. Lord Dynevor, who 
 has a beautiful mansion in the vicinity, the old cas- 
 tle forming part of the grounds.^' Camden calls it 
 "a princely castle belonging to the princes of South 
 I Wales while they flourished." It was first built 
 j by Rhys ap Theodore, in the days of the Con- 
 Iqueror, and demolished in 1194 in one of the 
 feudal wars of that period, but in 1257 it was 
 rebuilt, and again in the possession of the Rhvs 
 family, under whom it stood a noted seige against 
 the English until retaken by Llewelvn ap Gruf- 
 fydd, and it continued to remain as a formidable 
 fortress until the civil war of Charles I, when it 
 was dismantled. The present proprietor. Lord 
 Dynevor, whose family name is Rice, is a lineal 
 descendant of Rhys ap Thomas, the owner and 
 occupant of the castle in Henry the VH's reign. 
 
 *The first castle was built by Roderic Maivr, in 877. 
 
94 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 In and around Llandilo the country and scen- 
 ery are very fine, and its agricultural resources 
 are very great, and besides Newton Park (the 
 Dynevor mansion) there are several other fine 
 mansions in the neighborhood, for instance, Ta- 
 liaris, the residence of William Peel, Esq. (cousin 
 to the late Robert Peel) ; Rhyd Odin or Edwins- 
 ford, the residence of Sir James Hamlin Williams ; 
 (xolden Grove, the residence of the Rt. Hon. 
 Earl of Cawdor, and others of more or less note. 
 Near Edwinsford are the ruins of Talley Abbey, 
 founded in 1180 by Rhys, son of Gruffydd, 
 Prince of Wales. This abbey was surprised by 
 that monster, Henry VHI, who gave its revenues 
 to the family of Albemarles, and on Pantglas 
 estate, the residence of David Jones, Esq., M. P., 
 are two ancient encampments, one no doubt of 
 Roman origin, for several portions of armor, 
 liilts of swords, and otlier instruments of war, 
 (mostly of Roman manufacture) and Roman 
 coins liave been dug up from time to time, thus 
 establishing the fact of their having been at one 
 time a Roman encampment there. Before bid- 
 ding adieu to Llandilo we may here remark that 
 the last and decisive battle between the Welsh 
 and English was fouglit near by in 1252, when 
 the forces of Edward I (superior in number) were 
 victorious over those of Elewelen, Prince of 
 Wales, who was sliamefully betrayed and slain. 
 Tliis terrible battle* put an <i\\(\ to the Welsh 
 
 * The British loss of life was immense lo achie\e the 
 victory. 
 
0\'r the Atlantic. 95 
 
 struggle for independance, and Wales has ever 
 since been, as she ever will be, subject to the 
 English crown. We next proceeded to — 
 
 Carmarthen. — It is the shire town of the 
 county (Carmarthenshire), and has long been re- 
 garded as the Capital of the southern division of 
 Wales. (B. G.) It is charmingly situated on 
 the north-west bank of the beautiful river Towy, 
 and is a place of some importance, there being a 
 considerable trade carried on in tlie manufacture 
 of tin, lead, castings and other branches of trade. 
 Salmon and sewin fishing is quite a business 
 also. 
 
 From the Parade ground a delightful view is 
 had of the valley of the Towy, a most picturesque 
 sight, and like all other old towns of note, it was 
 surrounded by a high wall with fortified gates, 
 of which there is but little trace now — while the 
 County prison occupies tlie site of its once an- 
 cient and princely castle. 
 
 Carmarthen is of liigh antiquity, for in the 
 earliest British annals it is spoken of as a town 
 of much importance. In 1137 it was burned to 
 the ground by Owain Gwvnedd, and afterwards 
 rebuilt by Gilbert, Earl of Clare. 
 
 It was here that the renowned Welsh prophet 
 Merlin was born in the fifth century, and in 
 the neighborhood is Merlin's Cave, wherein he 
 is supposed to have resided. Caer-Menldin, or Mer- 
 lin's towii^ was supposed to be its original name, 
 of which Carmarthen is a corruption. It also can 
 
g6 O'er ihc Atlantic. 
 
 boast of having been the birth-place of two re- 
 nowned soldiers, viz : Gen. Sir Thomas Picton 
 and Gen. Sir William Nott. The former was 
 killed at Waterloo, and the latter, after gaining 
 honor and renown in India, returned home to 
 die shortly after his arrival. There are two fine 
 monuments erected in conspicuous places in the 
 town in commemoration of the distinguished ser- 
 vices of both these heroes. 
 
 Among the public buildings worthy of note I 
 may name a very spacious Market-house, the 
 Barracks, the Town Hall, adorned with Ionic 
 columns, the County Jail, the Poor House, a free 
 Crrammar School, founded by a Dr. Owen, and 
 a model school, all of which, I may say, are or- 
 naments to the town. 
 
 St. Peter's church is a large plain building, 
 with a lofty square tower, in which are hung an 
 excellent peal of bells, and the church contains 
 several remarkable monuments of antique date ; 
 there are also numerous dissenting chapels, 
 some of which have very large congregations, 
 and a Presbyterian college for the education of 
 ministers. 
 
 The inhabitants of Carmarthen, known in the 
 county as " St. Peter's boys and girls," are re- 
 markable for the purity of their English. Tliey 
 not only speak the language very correctly, but 
 with an accent only peculiar to themselves. 
 
 It was my intention to proceed beyond this 
 point to visit Tenby, Haverfordwest, Pembroke 
 
0\'r the Atlaniic. 97 
 
 and Aberystwith, tlie former two places celebrat- 
 ed for good sea bathing, all very remarkable and 
 pretty places, and with a history scarcely second 
 to any other towns in Wales ; but, as "time was 
 on the icing,'' we had to forego that pleasure and 
 proceed in an opposite direction, so as to reach 
 Llandovery to visit a relative, who is the propri- 
 etor of a Chcuiical Works in tliat neigliborhood. 
 
9S 
 
 "&er the Atlanfic. 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 WALES, CONT I NUED. 
 
 Llandovery,— In ancient times called Llan- 
 ymddyfrwy, is a small market town of about 
 2,000 inhabitants. All that remains of its once 
 line old castle is the keep, which consists of a 
 circular tower on the summit of a mound, and a 
 few pieces of old ruined walls. The history of 
 this castle, which we will give but briefly, is 
 nevertheless interesting. Howell ap Rhys took 
 it by storm in 940. It afterwards fell into tlie 
 hands of the English, and was subsequently 
 taken and retaken until the time of Edward I, 
 since which time it has been a ruin. 
 
 One of the greatest additions to Llandoverv 
 which has been made of late years, is the build- 
 ing and establishing of a public school upon a 
 large scale, called the Welsh Collegiate Institu- 
 tion, founded by Thomas Phillips,"Esq., for the 
 encouragement of native talent. TJie building is 
 not only commodious but very handsome, and 
 we are infortncd is n perfect success in every 
 respect. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 99 
 
 Llandovery is situated in a delightful neigh 
 jborhood, celebrated for its farm productions, es- 
 Ipecially that of butter, which is generally Aery 
 fine; fine trout abound in the rivers and streams, 
 the banks of which are much frequented by the 
 angler. 
 
 I The writer will now have to make a long leap 
 passing through a picturesque and well culti- 
 vated country and enterprising towns, and land 
 his readers in — 
 
 Cardiff. — A few passing remarks about this 
 place, as we travel along, will render the route 
 we have taken the more interesting. Aside from 
 its being the most important commercial town in 
 South Wales, it is celebrated as being the place 
 where Jestyn ap Gwrgan, Lord of Morgan wg, 
 (i. e., Jestyn the son of Gwrgan, Lord of Gla- 
 morgan) built for himself a strong fortified castle, 
 surrounded with embattled walls, with five en- 
 trance gates. This castle was a spacious and 
 stately edifice, and was called Caerdaff (fortress 
 on the Taff), hence Cardiff ; it became the resi- 
 dence of princes. It was in this castle that 
 Robert, Duke of Normandy, eldest son of the 
 conqueror, was confined for twenty-six years, by 
 order of his brother William Rufus, and Henry 
 I, who were jealous of his power and influence 
 In i64g, when garrisoned by Royalists,it was close- 
 ly besieged for three days by the troops of Oliver 
 Cromwell, who commanded in person, when 
 possession was obtained through the treachery 
 
loo O^er the Atlantic. 
 
 of a deserter from the garrison, who Cromwell, 
 after having entered the castle, caused to be 
 hung, as a warning to his own troops, thus 
 paying the traitor in his own coin. Nearly the 
 whole of this very ancient building has given] 
 place to the now more modern mansion of thd 
 Marquis of Bute, to whose father (now deceased)] 
 the flourishing town of Cardiff owes much for its 
 prosperity, the marquis, during his life time,[ 
 having laid out probably half a million pound 
 sterling in the building of docks, warehouses 
 and other conveniences incidental to a first class 
 seaport. The present marquis is about twentv 
 years of age, and resides at the castle witli the 
 dowager marquise, his mother, and it is said, 
 will, on his coming of age, carry out further im- 
 provements projected by his late father. 
 
 Newport. — At this place we stayed but a very 
 short time, to call upon an old acquaintance, but 
 who unfortunately was not at home. After ii 
 hastilv penning him a few lines to come and see j 
 us at Chepstow, we proceeded to take a hasty 
 survev of the town and its castle, both of which j 
 arc situated on the banks of the river Usk, the j 
 latter on a steep precipice overlooking the river, j 
 
 Newport, or Casnewydd, as it is called by the j 
 Welsh, for the last thirty years has been continu- 
 ally improving, commercially and otherwise, 
 until it has become a shipping port of much im- li 
 portance ; the extensive floating dock constructed j 
 here for the accommodation of shipping of im^ j 
 
O'er the Atlantic. lol 
 
 'inense tonnage, renders it one of the most desir- 
 jible ports in Britain for loading and unloading 
 'Df vessels, and in the mountainous districts ad- 
 'lacent, are some of the finest and most extensive 
 'mineral beds in the world, one of which is iron 
 ':>re, which, when manufactured into iron at 
 'various places, is then sent on to this port by 
 rail, from whence it is shipped foreign and coast- 
 wise. Immense quantities of coal for steam and 
 ^as purposes are also shipped from here to all 
 iparts of the United Kingdom and to foreign 
 [ports. 
 
 It was at Newport that the chartists under 
 the command of the Dowhead, John Frost, made 
 that very feeble and futile effort to gain reform 
 by force of arms, the residt of which crazy move 
 is too well known. 
 
 The place derives its interest principally from 
 the rapid growth and prosperity of its commer- 
 cial transactions; but it has some claim to 
 antiquity also, for it was founded by the Romans, 
 and the remains of an ancient castle, now partly 
 converted into a brewery of no mean preten- 
 sions, are still there to gratify the eye of the 
 lover of antiquities. The ancient towns of 
 Caerlleon and Usk are not many miles off, at one 
 time far more important stations to the Romans 
 than Newport was, and in the neighborhood are 
 to be seen some very magnificent mansions, 
 among w^hich I may name Tredegar Park, the 
 residence of Lord Tredes^ar, Abercarn House, the 
 
^^^2 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 residence of Lord Llanover and Llanwern, the 
 residence of the Rev. Sir J. C. Salsbury. We 
 will now bid Casnewydd adieu, and ^o to— 
 
 Chepstow.— Here we will remain for several 
 days with a relative, who resides here, so as to 
 enable us to visit such places as are said to be 
 very interesting to travelers and tourists P-en- 
 erally. ' ^ 
 
 First of all we will speak of the town, a quiet, 
 delightful and picturesque retreat on the right 
 banks of the river Wye, which is tlie boundary 
 line between the counties of Monmouth and 
 Gloucester, but at present its commercial trans- 
 actions are but very slim indeed. 
 
 During the time that the Saxons held posses- 
 sion of Chepstow, it was called Chepestowe, from 
 the Saxon word chepc, for market, and the word 
 stoioe, for town, meaning market town ; and atJ 
 the time that Harold was elevated to the throne,! 
 on the death of his brother-in-law, Edward the 
 confessor, Chepestowe was held by the Saxon 
 Earl, Hugh Bassett, but at the conquest (rio6) he 
 was displaced, and the conqueror gave all the 
 lands to his own countrymen. Hugh then 
 became an attached refugee to the court of 
 Rhys ap Teivdwr, Prince of South Wales, and 
 was slain with that Prince in the contest with 
 Robert Fitzhamon on Mynydd Du (Black Moun- 
 tain(, in the year 1090. The next possessor of 
 Chepstow was William Fitzosborn, a relative of 
 the conqueror, who was created Earl of Here- 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 103 
 
 foreland who was killed in Flanders in 1070, 
 He was then succeeded by his son Roger, who 
 was afterwards condemned to perpetual imprison- 
 ment for political reasons. His cousin, Walter 
 Fitzgerald de Clare, then came into possession. 
 Walter was succeeded by his nephew Gilbert de 
 Clare, Earl of Pembroke, whose son Richard 
 (surnamed Strongbow, from his skill in archery), 
 was Earl of Pembroke and Lord of Chepstow. 
 He died in 12 10, leaving sons and daughters, the 
 former succeeded him to the estates and titles, 
 but died without issue. The property then 
 changed hands frequently until 1301, when it 
 became the property of the crowm. Edward the 
 n gave a deed of grant of it to his brother, 
 Thomas Plantagenet. From him it passed to 
 the Mo wb rays, Norforks, Pembrokes, and then 
 through the female line to the Somersets, and is 
 now the property of their descendant, the present 
 Duke of Beaufort, who is Baron of Chepstow. 
 
 The castle of Chepstow is still a splendid 
 specimen of a feudal fortress, situated on a high 
 I precipice overlooking the river Wye, and is com- 
 Iposed of four distinct courts, with their various 
 I apartments and dungeons intact. Near to the 
 entrance gate, a beautiful pointed archway, is the 
 rjund tower, where in days gone by many a 
 captive sighed and groaned, and now celebrated 
 las the place wherein Henry Marten, one of the 
 jspecial judges of King Charles I, was confined 
 for twentv vcars, since wdiich time it has been 
 
104 
 
 O'fr the AfUmtii 
 
 called Marten's Tower. Marten was a great 
 aclvocate of the Republican form of government 
 and a staunch friend of Cromwell, the pretender, 
 figuring among the foremost, who were the 
 means of bringing that simple and unfortunate 
 monarch, Charles, to the block, for which act 
 after the restoration he was condemned to die ; 
 but his life was not to be sacrificed as that of his 
 king's was, for the sentence was commuted to 
 imprisonment for life. He died in the 78th year 
 of his age, and was interred in the chancel of 
 the parish church of Chepstow, and on his monu- 
 ment is the following, written by himself: 
 
 Siirr. yXH, 1680, was iu'rikd, 
 A TRUE BORN ENGLISHMAN, 
 Who in Berkshire was well known 
 To love his country's freedom 'bove his own ; 
 But immured full twenty yeare, 
 Mad time to write, as doth appear. 
 
 EPITAPH. 
 Here or elsewhere (all's one to you or me). 
 Earth, air, or water gripes my ghostly dust. 
 None knows how soon to be set free. 
 Reader, if you an old tried rule will trust. 
 You'll gladly do and suffer what you must. 
 
 M}- time was spent in serving you and you. 
 And death may pay, it seems, and welcome, too — 
 Revenge destroying, but itself — while I 
 To birds of prey leave my old cage and fly. 
 Examples preach to the eye, care then mine says. 
 Not how you did, but how you spend your days. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. \o% 
 
 In addition to the almost impregnable castle 
 the town was strongly fortified. Walls of im- 
 mense thickness and watch towers surrounded it, 
 and with some few exceptions are now what may- 
 be termed in a tolerable state of preservation. 
 The town gate, called in the charter, granted by- 
 Charles, Earl of Worcester, in 1524, the "Great 
 Gate," is still standing and in good repair. 
 
 During the reign of Charles I, Chepstow 
 experienced its share of the reverses of fortune 
 and hard knocks, identical to that very unsettled 
 period of State affairs, when old England was 
 about becoming a Republic, but only for a 
 season. 
 
 Says Ruskworth : " On the 6th of October, 
 1645, the town and castle of Chepstow, being 
 garrisoned by the King's troops under the com- 
 mand of Col. Fitzmorris, were summoned by a 
 force of 300 cavalry and 400 infantry, assisted \>y 
 some partisans of the county, the whole under 
 command of Colonel Morgan, the Parliamentar}' 
 Governor of Gloucester, to surrender. Tliis 
 demand was complied with, the garrison sur- 
 rendering as prisoners of war on the loth of tlie 
 same month. The town and castle afterwards 
 remained in the possession of the Parliamenta- 
 rions until 1648, without interruption ; but in 
 May of that year, during the absence of the 
 Governor, Col. Hughes, it was surprised and 
 taken by a force under the command of Sir 
 Nicholas Kemys, Colonel of horse in the King's 
 
io6 O'er tJic Atlantic. 
 
 service. The event so exasperated Cromwell 
 that he proceeded against it in person, at the 
 head of a considerable force of cavalry, infantry 
 and artillery. He entered the town on the nth 
 of May, 1648, and immediately demanded the 
 surrender of the castle, which was directly 
 refused, and the little garrison, of 160 men only, 
 defended it with the utmost courage and determi- 
 nation ; but after a long resistance, the little bandr 
 worn out with watching and almost famished 
 wnth hunger, even then refusing to surrender, had 
 hoped to escape by a boat which they had pro- 
 vided as a last resource for the purpose. In 
 this they were deemed to disappointment, for a 
 soldier of Cromwell's army had swam the river, 
 cut the moorings, and brought it away with him. 
 Finally a breach was effected in the works and 
 the castle was taken by assault. Its valiant com- 
 mander and forty men lost their lives in endeav- 
 oring at the last moment to repel the invader." 
 
 Tlie retaking of this castle was considered of 
 so much importance to the Parliamentarians 
 that a reward of fifty pounds sterling, a large 
 sum in those days, w^as awarded the bearer of 
 the dispatches. 
 
 More about Chepstow in mv next. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 107 
 
 LETTER X. 
 
 WALES, CONTINUED. 
 
 Chepstow, Continued.— T\\q old parish church 
 of Chepstow was originally that of an alien pri- 
 ory of benedictine monks, dedicated to the Holy 
 Virgin. It w^as founded in the reign of Stephen 
 by one of the family of De Clare. The principal 
 entrance is of Norman architecture, and the old 
 tower contains a fine peal of bells and a hand- 
 some clock wnth chimes, w^iich chime hourly 
 commencing five minutes before striking the hour] 
 Several very fine monuments adorn the interior 
 among which is a very elegant canopied tomb of 
 Henry Somerset, Lord Herbert, second Earl of 
 Worcester of that line, who died in 1549. 
 
 The Welsh custom of bedecking the graves of 
 departed friends with flowers of early spring, is 
 strictly kept up in the ancient churchyard on 
 Palm Sunday, and is done so generally through- 
 out Wales. Dr. Dodd commemorates the custom 
 
 in the following and other lines 
 
io8 [ O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 Oh ! 'tis delightful to maintain 
 Of friends deceased a true respect : 
 
 Then bring me flowrets fresh and green, 
 Straight shall my parent's grave be decked. 
 
 There are several fine buildings, among which 
 is the bank, a branch of the west of England, 
 towering high above the rest, as also several 
 buildings of ancient date, and two alms houses, 
 one the gift of Sir Walter Montague, of Pencoed, 
 for the residence and relief of ten poor persons 
 of the parish, and the other affords an asylum to 
 twelve similar persons. There is also another 
 charitable endowment of four shillings per week. 
 Called " Bowsher's charity," for the support of- 
 ten poor old bachelors ! " What a shame,' 
 remarked a lady friend to me one day, " it is that 
 such an inducement should be held out to the 
 young men of Chepstow to live a single life of 
 blessedness, knowing that when they get up in 
 years that they may possibly be one of the fortu- 
 nate four shillinger's per week, to live a life of 
 idleness. Pooh ! I have no patience left wlien I 
 think of the old f — 1 of a batch who made the 
 bequest." Poor old thing, for she was on the 
 wrong side of forty. How much it did see in to 
 annoy her, and 1 must confess that I thought 
 myself that tlie money was not very judiciously 
 bequeathed. 
 
 This little town has a variety of very fine 
 stores, is well supplied with water and lighted 
 with gas, and the streets are well paved and 
 
O'er the Atlaritic. 109 
 
 beautifully clean ; in short, it is a beautiful healthy 
 place, and is well worthy of a week's visit from 
 the traveler and tourist, for it and the neighbor- 
 hood abounds with antiquities, situated in one of 
 the most delightful countries the eye ever 
 rested upon. 
 
 The river Wye, which empties itself into the 
 Severn, is celebrated for its salmon fishery, the 
 right of which, like every other monopoly in 
 Great Britain, is vested in the Duke of Beaufort, 
 who rents it out to an enterprising and industri- 
 ous Scotchman, who is well versed in the busi- 
 ness, and under whose sagacious management 
 very large quantities of the fish are caught during 
 the season. He employs upwards of a hundred 
 men, and during our stay several tons of these 
 beautiful fish were caught and shipped off by 
 train to the markets (rf London, Manchester, 
 Bristol and other large cities, some of which fish 
 measured more than three feet long and weighed 
 upwards of 70 pounds. The people of the 
 neighborhood deem this act of the Duke's mean 
 and also an infringement of their rights, for if 
 not the lords of the soil, they certainly think 
 they should be of the river. They therefore 
 speak of his grace in anv but a respectful man- 
 ner. 
 
 The Wye is spanned by two bridges, which are 
 near the town, one a tubular bridge, erected by 
 the late I. K. Brunell, C. E., of Great Eastern 
 memory, for the South Wales Railway company, 
 
no O'er tJie Atlantic. 
 
 in the erection of which the lamented engineer 
 has displayed much originality and boldness of 
 conception. The bridge, i. e. the span, is 300 
 feet long and upwards of 100 feet high from Ioav 
 water mark, or sixty and more above high water 
 mark. The other bridge is of wrought iron, is 
 very handsome, and is used for turnpike traffic. 
 Before bidding adieu to ancient Chepstow, we 
 visited the Wind cliff and Tintern Abbey, pass- 
 ing by Piercefield park, the princely residence of 
 Henry Clay, Esq., of which I cannot give an 
 adequate description ; but the grandest scene on 
 the Wye is that to be obtained from the Wind 
 cliff, which we ascended with some considerable 
 difficulty, and were only too glad when we 
 reached the summit. Here we were perched 
 high up in the air, with the water and clouds 
 beneath us, standing upon the edge of a precipice, 
 the depth of which caused us to shudder, and the 
 farm houses in the valley beneath appearing to 
 have been reduced to one-third their actual size, 
 w.th the eccentric river winding at our feet like 
 the letter S, and resembling a small creek. For 
 let my readers recollect that we were one thou- 
 sand feet above its level, and from Avhere we 
 overlooked nine counties, said to be the most 
 beautiful and extensive prospect in Great Britain. 
 Descending a different way to that we went, we 
 passed through a large cavern in the rock, nearly 
 90 feet in length, leaving which we passed down 
 360 steps, and over a rustic bridge to the Moss 
 
O'er the Atlantic. iii 
 
 Cottage, a singular building, enveloped in shrub- 
 bery, the interior of which is lined beautifully 
 with moss; and its windows are of stained glass, 
 diffusing therein a very nice, soft light. Visitors 
 are here supplied, at rather a salty figure^ with 
 refreshments and photographs of the cottage, the 
 Wind cliff, &c. After paying the old lady in 
 charge for coming down the ever memorable 
 (i. e. to me), " 360 steps," and purchasing a few 
 photographs, we again entered our carriage, which 
 had gone on to meet us here from the foot of the 
 Wind cliff, and drove to Tintern, two miles fur- 
 ther, along an excellent road, but not at a 2:40 
 gait, keeping the river on our right. It was a 
 delightful drive. " Such drives as we sometimes 
 read of," remarked one of our party. To me it 
 was not only delightful, but refreshing, after 
 doubling cape Wind cliff, Avhich was rather 
 severe exercise for a man of my weight (225 
 pounds), and arrived at Tintern, we proceeded 
 immediately to view the Abbey, a building of 
 much grandeur and antiquity. 
 
 Tintern Abbey is situated on the right bank 
 of the river Wye, in a hollow sheltered by four 
 gigantic hills. It was founded for white monks 
 in the year 1 131, and dedicated to St. Mary by 
 Walter Fitz Richard de Clare, son of Constance, 
 the sister of William Fitzosborn, who was 
 created Earl of Hereford by the Conqueror, to 
 whom he was nearly related. This pious act of 
 De Clare was intended bv him to expiate his 
 
112 O'er the Atlantic 
 
 many sins for having robbed, pillaged and mur- 
 dered the native inhabitants by wholesale, both 
 lie and his brother Gilbert and many others of 
 the nobles. Abbotts, priests, &c,, were interred 
 in the Abbey. 
 
 On entering this majestic and superb ruin, 
 wherein the close cut grass serves for a carpet, 
 instead of the line mosaic pavement, some of 
 which has been collected together and formed 
 into a floor, surrounded by an iron railing, so 
 many objects meet the eye, in so sudden a man- 
 ner (says a well known writer), that the visitor 
 becomes astonished beyond conception at the 
 grandeur that must have once reigned within 
 those ancient walls. The long line of massive 
 lofty pillars which divides the aisles, the fallen 
 arches and the elegant remains of the east win- 
 dow (sixty feet in depth), strike the beholder with 
 awe and challenge his admiration and astonish- 
 ment at what was possible in the days of semi- 
 barbarism. Here and there are scattered some 
 neatly piled up sculptured fragments and tomb- 
 stones, ruined effigies and broken ornaments, 
 which cannot but strike the eye and cause the 
 mind to wander into centuries long gone by. 
 
 From the north aisle you pass through a door 
 or iron gateway into tlie cloisters, and from there 
 to the chapter house, infirmary, library, refectory 
 and kitchen, all in a good state of preservation, 
 considering the time since they were inhabited 
 bv mortal man. Savs one writer : 
 
O'er thf Atlantic. 1 1 3 
 
 '■ Wow many heart's have here grown cold 
 
 That sleep these niouldering stones among ? 
 How many beads have here been told. 
 
 How many matins here been sung ? 
 On this rude stone by time long broke — 
 
 I think I see some pilgrim kneel — 
 I think I see the censor smoke — 
 
 I think I hear the solemn peel." 
 
 Tlie Abbey, grand old classic ruin, is a cruci- 
 tbrm, its nave and choir 228 feet, and transept 
 150 feet in length, height of centre arches 70 feet 
 and the smaller 30 feet, the breadth of entrance 
 door is 14 feet, and the walls above the door 28 
 feet. The amount of stone and Roman cement 
 used in its construction is astonishing, and had 
 to be transported from a long distance, no doubt 
 by boats on tlie river. At the dissolution it was 
 suppressed and the site granted by Henry the 
 VIII, to Henry, second Earl of Worcester, and 
 is now the property of a descendant, his grace 
 the Duke of Beaufort, whose agent in charge 
 collects the nominal sum of six-pe/ice of all who 
 visit the ruins, a sum well spent by the lover of 
 antiquities. Retracing our steps to Chepstow, 
 there will end our tour through Wales. 
 
 Now a few remarks about Cymru (Wales), and 
 its people generally, ere we take our leave of it 
 for the land of the Saesoneg (English). 
 It is divided into two territories, com- 
 monly called North and South Wales, compri- 
 sing twelve counties, and its extent (says W. 
 His. of W. p 2), "may be estimated by the follow- 
 
114 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 ing particulars: From Carmel Point to Cheps- 
 tow on the Severn, is about 145 miles, and from 
 Birkenhead on the Mersey to the Wormshead in 
 Glanmorganshire, about 140 miles. From the 
 mouth of the Clwyd in Denbgshire to Barry 
 Island in Glanmorganshire is about 140 miles, and 
 from the mouth of the Dovey in Cardiganshire 
 to Bridge-North on the Severn, nearly 70 miles, 
 while Braich-y-pwll Head, in Carnarvonshire, and 
 extends to the west beyond the mouth of the 
 Dovev, about 30 miles, and St David's head in 
 Pembrokeshire, about 50 miles, in all about 7,500 
 square miles of territory. It includes, beside 
 the twelve counties, Monmouthshire and Here- 
 fordshire, with parts of Gloucestershire, Wor- 
 cestershire, Shropsiiire and Cheshire." T\\q former 
 is, in my opinion, substantially a Welsh county^ 
 it certainly is in language and habits of the 
 people, although included in the list of English 
 counties at present, while portions of the others 
 were also at one time no doubt part and parcel 
 of Welsh territorv taken, like Monmouthshire to 
 enlarge British territory. Tlie whole surface 
 of the countrv is mountainous, not unlike Penn- 
 sylvania, its highest mountain being that of 
 Snowdon or Eryri, wliich is 3,571 feet above the 
 level of the sea, next are Carnedd-Llewelyn, 
 3,466 feet, Carnedd-Uavydd, 3,422 feet, Arrenig 
 2,999 ^^6t> '^^'^^ several others of lesser height. 
 Rivers it hasmany, among which I may name the 
 Severn, superior in every respect to any of the 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 115 
 
 others, 190 miles long; next is the Wye and 
 Towy. The Severn and Towy are to a certain 
 point navigable, and the whole three are cele- 
 brated for salmon fishing. A vast extent of this 
 country is in a high state of cultivation and the 
 other parts abound with rich minerals, principally 
 beds and seams of coal and iron ore. 
 
 Wat-es — of which there is so little known 
 abroad, generally, deserves from mc, a native of 
 its soil, more than a passing remark. Hence the 
 following : 
 
 Although it comprises only twelve counties, 
 six of which form the northern, and six the 
 southern division, it certainly did embrace in olden 
 times much more territorv, for, as history says, it 
 included Monmouthshire, together with other 
 contiguous counties, whole or in part, which now 
 are incorporated with England. Thus — I take 
 Chester^ Shrewsbury^ Hereford^ Chepstoio^ Ncivport 
 and Abergavenny^ especially the two latter, which 
 are in the county of Monmouth, to be substan- 
 tially IVchh towns, for there the Welsh language 
 still prevails, and more especially in the rural 
 districts, where the natives (more or less) retain 
 their ancient prejudices against the Saxon. 
 
 Wales has a population of about 1,250,000. 
 " It derived its name, as also did its people, from 
 the Saxons, who, by so naming, denoted a land 
 and people to which they were strangers. The 
 Welsh have always called themselves Cymric, of 
 which the literal meaning is Aborigines^ and the 
 
ii6 O'er the Atlantje. 
 
 language Cyinraeg or Cymric^ i. e., the primitive 
 tongue J whence the Romans called the coiintrv 
 Cambria. 
 
 It was into this country the ancient Britons 
 retreated, maintaining their independence by he- 
 roically defending themselves against enemies 
 superior in power and number, who were every- 
 where else victorious. The Romans never were 
 able to subdue them, and the Saxons, although in 
 possession of the neighboring country, could 
 never secure continued possession of Wales, and 
 it was not until the strength of the country was 
 so diminished, owing to internal dissentions, that 
 the Mercians, under King Offa, laid w^aste exten- 
 sive districts, and wresting a portion from the 
 Welsh princes, reduced the country to nearly its 
 present limits, and erected that famous boundary 
 called Claivdd Offa or Offas Dyke. 
 
 In 843, Roderic was the sovereign of Wales, 
 when he divided it into three principalities ; and 
 during the Danish Ascendency in Britain, little is 
 known of Wales. The Danes made some incur- 
 sions on the coast, but gained no permanent foot- 
 ing in the country. So the Welsh continued 
 under their own princes and laws, and were 
 never entirely subjected to the crown of England 
 till the reign of Edward I, when Llewelyn-ap- 
 Gruffydd, Prince of Wales, through treachery, 
 lost his life and his country, shortly after which, 
 Edward, the better to secure his conquest, and to 
 reconcile the Welsh to a foreign power, sent his 
 
O'er the Atlantic. i r 7 
 
 Queen tu Carnarvon Castle, where she gave birth 
 to a son, &c.," (B. G.) of which I have treated in 
 the preceding pages. Of its people I may justly 
 say — 
 
 Tlie Welsh of to-day are a hard working, thrifty 
 and frugal people, truly loval and patriotic, 
 full of love and song for their native land; and 
 are considered abroad, I am proud to remark, 
 intelligent and good law-abiding citizens. 
 
ii8 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 LETTER XL 
 
 ENGLAND. 
 
 Briglistow, or Cacr Odor, for by these names 
 this ancient and important city was called by the 
 RomanSy Saxons and Welsh, is situated in two 
 counties, viz : Gloucestershire and Somerset- 
 shire. The largest portion belongs to the for- 
 mer. Two rivers wend their way through it, the 
 Avon and the Frome. 
 
 The city owes its origin to Brennus, a King of 
 Britain, who flourished 330 years B. C. During 
 the sovereignty of the first Edward (1,000) it 
 suffered severely from numerous and severe con- 
 flicts with large bodies of the Danes, who fre- 
 quently found their way up the Bristol Channel, 
 and sacrificed to their brutal fury both sexes ir- 
 respective of age. Hundreds fell on these occa- 
 sions victims to the bloodthirsty invaders, who 
 always left loaded with plunder. But at last 
 they were signally defeated, and had to beat hasty 
 retreats ; and, Edward having caused to be con- 
 structed several castles along the river Avon for 
 the defense of the places lying upon its banks. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 119 
 
 effectually put a stop to their piratical incursions. 
 
 The chief of those strongholds was the cele- 
 brated one of Bristol, which Henry of Lancaster 
 stormed when defended by one of the adherents 
 of King Richard. Pi-ince Rupert took it from 
 the Parliamentary army, they however regained 
 it afterward and finally it was razed to the 
 ground by Cromwell. Within the walls of that 
 once extensive castle Eleanor^ Princess of Bri- 
 tainy, was incarcerated by King John, during a 
 period of forty years; and within the same dun- 
 geon the same tyranical monarch committed the 
 well known deed of barbarity on the person of 
 an unfortunate Jew named Abraham^ of extract- 
 ing one tooth per diem until he had paid a sum 
 of ten thousand marks. The unhappy victim with- 
 stood this flagrant act of injustice and cruelty 
 until he had sacrificed all but one., and then com- 
 plied witli the exorbitant demand, a torture some 
 of our Anu^rican ladies now-a-days would think 
 nothing of, for they frequently have a whole 
 mouthful extracted for appearance sake alone. 
 
 Henry the VHT granted the charter which 
 made Bristol a city and the sec of a Bishop. 
 
 Serious riots took place here in 1749, octa 
 sioned by the erection of turnpike gates, when 
 the price of bread Avas very high. A great manv 
 lives were sacrificed on that occasion. Another 
 riot occurred in 1792 for the purpose of abolish- 
 ing the tolls collected on Bristol bridge ; then 
 followed a bread riot in 1801, all of which tend- 
 
I20 0\'r the Atlantic . 
 
 ed to disturb the public peace and sacrifice a 
 great many lives, without achieving any good 
 results — so much for i-iot and civil war. 
 
 The objects of curiosity in this city are very 
 numerous, and of the most diversified character, 
 the Cathedral, the various parish ciuirches, and 
 almost every street contains something to awak- 
 en the attention of the visitor, and to excite a 
 laudable spirit of inquiry. Tliis is more particu- 
 larly the case, as it respects many of those ma- 
 jestic and time honored edifices set apart for the 
 services of religion ; viz : that of the Established 
 Church of England. 
 
 It is considered the second city in size in 
 England,* and as we visited it specially to see 
 some relatives, remaining there but one day, af- 
 fording us just sufficient time to visit Clifton and 
 its magnificent suspension bridge, whicli spans 
 the river Avon, said to be one of the finest struc- 
 tures of the kind in the known world, my re- 
 marks will be brief. 
 
 Suspension bridges, we are informed, i, e., in a 
 rude form, were first constructed by the Peruvians, 
 but the principle was understood in Europe at 
 least as early as the middle ages, and were fre- 
 quently employed in military operations; the 
 Prince of Orange used them in 1631, and during 
 the Peninsular war, "when the French had de- 
 stroyed one of the stone arches of the bridge of 
 
 Liverpool, as a seaport, is of more importance and prob- 
 ably larger. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 21 
 
 Alcantara (a spJenciid Roman bridge built by the 
 Emperor Trojan), in order to prevent the pas- 
 sage of the allied troops, a rope bridge was at 
 once thrown across the gap (very nearlv one 
 hundred feet wide) and crossed in safety bv the 
 entire British armv," and temporarv bridp-es 
 formed of iron chains with planks laid across 
 have frequently been used for various j)urposes. 
 But the last great impulse to the erecti<jn of sus- 
 pension bridges was erected by the completion 
 in 1826 of Telford's Menai bridge, at that time 
 regarded as one of the boldest attempts under- 
 taken by any engineer. 
 
 I will now speak of the Clifton splendid struc- 
 ture. Standing upon the edge of the old Roman 
 encampment which crowns the summit of Clif- 
 ton Downs, with the vallev of the niofhtineale 
 opposite, and 200 feet below you the river Avon 
 flowing swiftly to the sea, is one of the most 
 magnificent views that the eye of the spectator 
 ever rested upon ; it is here, spanning the river 
 about 700 feet, is erected the Clifton suspension 
 bridge, so long in contemplation, but now happi- 
 ly for the residents of Clifton and Hotwell- 
 road completed. This bridge is not only verv 
 handsome but capable of sustaining a permanent 
 weight of 5,000 tons, the massive links which ex- 
 tend from pier to pier with their gilded bolts, 
 form especially on a clear sunny day a very at- 
 tractive and dazzling sight, and must be seen so 
 as to form a correct idea of its beautv ; indeed 
 
 E 
 
122 
 
 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 there are but few (if any) of the various bridges 
 erected in other parts of the world can excel it 
 in grandeur, and as we gazed upon it we were 
 struck with wonder and admiration for the genius 
 of the great Brunei, to whose engineering skill 
 the structure owed its presence, although he did 
 not live to witness its completion, but a finer and 
 more lasting monument could not be erected to 
 his memory than the Clifton suspension bridge ! 
 
 Bristol, especially that part called Clifton, has 
 within the last 20 years increased very much in 
 size, and some of the finest private dwellings in 
 all England adorn its once spacious and fertile 
 fields. College road being the most fashionable 
 of all others, both as a public drive and prome- 
 nade. 
 
 We failed to make it convenient to visit the 
 old cathedral St. Mary de Redcliffe^ which still 
 stands a venerable and majestic monument to 
 the days of yore. 
 
 Bristol has a population of probably 175,000, 
 and is quite a commercial city, doing an exten- 
 sive trade, principally with South Wales, and is 
 the terminus of the Great Western Railway. We 
 will now take a hurried leave of this city and 
 proceed by way of Swindon to — 
 
 London. — This wonderful and rapidly grow- 
 ing city has a population of over 3,000,000 of 
 people, and is no doubt the largest and most 
 flourishing city in the known world ; a few re- 
 marks on its early history will therefore not be 
 uninteresting to my readers. 
 
G'er the Atlantic. 123 
 
 It was at one time the capital of the Trinohar- 
 tes, a numerous people inhabiting those parts of 
 Britain now called Middlesex and Essex, before 
 the christian era, even in those remote times it 
 was governed by laws and was an important cen- 
 tre of commerce ! Caesar denominated it "the 
 chief city of the Trinobantes." Antiquity has 
 told us nothing of the foiuider, but tradition 
 gives it to a " Trojan called Brute, who invaded 
 and conquered Britain 11 16 years B. C." Durino- 
 • the 476 years of Roman rule, stupendous works 
 wjre accomplished by a people of advanced me- 
 clianical skill, whose soldiers were superior arti- 
 zans and excellent workmen, capable of building 
 fortresses, cities, &c., and as the Romans made 
 London their grand emporium, the city would 
 have had full advantage of their architectural 
 ability. We further learn that the Emperor 
 Claudius (who built Gloster, Glevum and Col- 
 chester Colonia) remodelled London and called 
 it Auguster; in the reign of Nero it was deemed 
 the largest and most opulent city in the British 
 Islands. 
 
 Various remains of Roman art and grandeur 
 have been found in London at various times, even 
 down to the building of the great Metropolitan 
 Railway, w^here now the iron horse traverses the 
 subterraneous passages of the present great city, 
 which of itself is sufficient proof of its being at 
 one time a place of much importance ; it is not 
 my intention however to give a history of Lon- 
 don from its foundation to the Norman conquest 
 
124 <^'^^ ^^^ Atlantic. 
 
 1 
 
 and down to the present time, but confine myself 
 to London as it is, with its surroundings, giving 
 an account only of that we visited and saw ; so 
 by way of commencement I will take my read- 
 ers to — 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral. — In 6io Ethclbert, 
 King of Kent, undertook the building of the 
 church of St. Paul, and Erkenwald, Bishop of 
 London, who died about the year 686, gave large 
 sums of money towards its completion, but in 961 
 it is supposed this edifice was destroyed by fire 
 and rebuilt within the following year. King 
 Athelstan endowed it '' with divers fair Lord- 
 ships," and here the King was interred, and his 
 son Edmond Ironsides crowned. 
 
 William the Conqueror bestowed some large 
 estates upon St. Pauls, but towards the close of 
 his reign it was again destroyed by fire, and then 
 Maurice, Bishop of London "conceived" {says 
 Stowe) "the vast design of erecting the magnifi- 
 cent structure which immediately preceded the 
 present cathedral, a work that men of that time 
 judged would never be completed," so vast were 
 its dimensions and slow its progress that it took, 
 we a^"e informed, 230 years to complete it. 
 
 The great clock Avas a wonderful piece of me- 
 chanism, and a splendid ornament, the figure of 
 an angel pointed to the hour, in the sight of pass- 
 ers by— "a heavenly messenger marking the pro- 
 gress of time." 
 
 During the civil war the whole church, except 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 125 
 
 the choir, was used for stables and phices for the 
 accommodation of soldiers, and its moneys col- 
 lected for repairs, seized by the Parliament ; thus 
 within the walls was heard the clatter of horses' 
 hoofs, and the jingle of the sabres and spurs of 
 the soldiers of Oliver Cromwell's army, togeth- 
 er with the coarse laugh, rude jest and muttered 
 curses of a class of people fully determined to 
 carry out the object in view — that of abolishing 
 monarchial rule. At the restoration a public 
 subscription w^as gotten up to put it in repair 
 but before the work was began it again became 
 a prey to the great fire of 1666, upon which oc- 
 casion it was reduced to a mass of smouldering 
 ruins. 
 
 "On June 21st, 1675, Sir Christopher Wren 
 began the building of the present edifice, and 
 the choir was opened for divine service on Dec. 
 2nd, 1697 ; the last or highest stone of the build- 
 ing was laid on the top of the lantern in 17 10. 
 Thus it occupied 35 years in its completion, un- 
 der one architect, one master mason, and under 
 one prelate, Dr. Compton, Bishop of London. 
 
 The large organ built in. 1853 contains 60 
 sounding stops, viz : Great organ t6, choir 12, 
 solo 9, swell 13, pedal 10, besides accessory stops, 
 movements, &c., and there are 4,004 pipes in it. 
 
 A flight of 260 steps takes the visitor to the 
 whispering gallery, wherein the slightest whisper 
 can be heard along the wall, by two persons 
 standing a long way apart as if that of a loud 
 
126 O'er tJie Atlajitic, 
 
 voice — 560 steps leads to the upper gallery and 616 
 to the hall, from where can be had a most magni- 
 ficent view of the city and suburbs. 
 
 The whispering gallery is 140 yards in cir- 
 cumference, the great bell 10 feet in diameter, 
 the metal of which is ten inches thick and 
 weight 11,474 pounds; this immense weight is 
 suspended forty feet from the floor, and the hour 
 is struck on this bell by a hammer weighing 145 
 pounds. 
 
 The clock has two faces of 57 feet in circum- 
 ference, or nearly 20 feet in diameter, the minute 
 hands on each face are nine feet eight inches 
 long and weigh 75 pounds, the hour hands are 
 five feet nine inches long and weigh 44 pounds, 
 the hour figures are two feet two inches long, the 
 pendulum 16 feet with a weight at the bottom of 
 T08 pounds, yet it is suspended by a spring one- 
 eighth of an inch in thickness. 
 
 From the pavement to the top of the cross over 
 the dome is upwards of 360 feet, and the lantern 
 which crowns the Cathedral is said to weigh 700 
 tons, the ball is six feet in diameter, its weight 
 5,600 pounds, and has ample room for the accom- 
 modation within of twelve persons ; thirty feet 
 above it is the cross, which weighs 3,360 pounds 
 and is fifteen feet high." 
 
 In the vaults are the remains of celebrated 
 persons, among whom I may name Sir Chris, 
 Wren, who died in 1723, in the 91st vear of his 
 age. Lord Nelson and the Duke of Wellington ; 
 
6>Vr the Atlantic. 127 
 
 and upwards of fifty elegant monuments by va- 
 rious masters adorn the interior, all erected a 
 the public expense to the memory of departed 
 celebrities, the cost of which I was informed 
 amounts to no less a sum than one hundred and 
 fifty thousand pounds, that of Lord Nelson, Earl 
 Howe, Sir Ralph Abercrombie and Lord Rodney 
 costing upwards of ^6,000 each. 
 
 In the crypt the most conspicuous and elabo- 
 rate are the tombs of Nelson and Wellington 
 the latter is very fine, and has near it the funeral 
 car with all the trappings and appointments 
 which conveyed to their last resting place all 
 that was once mortal of the '"''Iron Duke.'' His 
 coronet (deprived of its precious stones) and 
 baton lie on top of the sarcophagus, solitary 
 memorials of the past, that coronet which on so 
 many occasions shed lustre around amid pomp 
 and state, but now dismantled and doomed to 
 adorn, like that baton which he carried on many 
 a battle field, the last resting place of its once 
 illustrious wearer. 
 
 More about London in my next — when I will 
 request my readers to accompany me into the 
 
 TOWER. 
 
128 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 ENGLAND, CONTINUED. 
 
 London Continued. — The Tower of London, 
 a very extensive building, • is now the 
 receptacle for arms, &c., of the naval and military 
 school, both ancient and modern. It is of Nor- 
 man architecture, and was founded by William 
 the Conqueror as a fortress, but has since then 
 served for various purposes, even as the residence 
 of Royalty, for several of the English Monarchs 
 have occupied it as a palace ; it is therefore well 
 worthy of a visit, and perhaps it may be to others 
 as it was to the writer, the most interesting place 
 in all England. 
 
 After passing through two gateways and across 
 the moat in charge of a Government official, pe- 
 culiarly dressed and commonly known as a "beef 
 eater," we were soon within the walls, wherein 
 some of the blackest deeds that ever disgraced 
 tlie pages of history have been enacted, and stood 
 in front of the Traitor's gate, which opens into 
 the fortress from the river Thames, through 
 which all the State prisoners were once brought 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 131 
 
 the name of Anne Boleyn, one of the several 
 wives of Henry VIII, whom he cnielly 
 
 I caused to be beheaded, is inscribed on the wall 
 by one of the unhappy gentlemen imprisoned 
 here in those days, and who also lost their lives on 
 her account ; we will pass by several towers of 
 
 I little or no interest and enter the 
 
 Beauchamp Tower — erected during the reign 
 
 1 of John, 1 1 19, and Henry III, 1216. This tower 
 derives its name from Thomas de Beauchamp, 
 Earl of Warwick, who was imprisoned in it in 
 
 j 1397, and is the most interesting of the whole, 
 for very many distinguished prisoners have, from 
 time to time, languished and died in this tower. 
 
 I Near the entrance is inscribed the name of Mar- 
 
 ' maduke Neville, one of the unfortunate adherents 
 
 I to the cause of Mary, Queen of Scots. In one 
 of the recesses is inscribed the following : " Since 
 fortune hath chosen that my hope should go to 
 the wind to complain, I wish the time were de- 
 stroyed, my planet being ever sad and unpropi- 
 tious. Signed, William Tyrrel, 1541." Near 
 the fire place is the name of Philip Howard, 
 Earl of Arundel, and inscribed under is the follow- 
 ing : " The more suffering with Christ in this world, 
 the more glory with Christ in the next world." 
 He was the eldest son of Thomas, Duke of Nor- 
 folk, who was beheaded in 1572 for aspiring to 
 the hand of Mary, Queen of Scots, and was im- 
 prisoned for his devotedness to the Romish yeli- 
 
 gion ; he lingered and died at the age of 39 in 
 
1^2 O'er the Atlantie. 
 
 liis prison cell. Near by and around the old fire 
 place are various other inscriptions, among 
 which is that of Dudley, Earl of Warwick, whose 
 fatlier endeavored to place the crown of England 
 on the head of Lady Jane Grey, which rash am- 
 bitious act (Lady Jane being his daughter-in- 
 law) deprived him of his head, and his son died 
 in prison. In another recess is the name *' G. 
 Gyfford, August 8tli, 1586" — and a great many 
 rude sculptures of armc^rial bearings adorn the 
 walls of this tower, the liandiwork of those un- 
 fortunate occupants, who from time to time did 
 thus wile in solitude many an irksome hour away, 
 and are now mementos of those days when a 
 man or woman's life was mere bagatelle. Well 
 may the Lady Jane Grey express herself in the 
 following lines : 
 
 " To mortal's common fate thy mind resign 
 My lot to-day to-morrow may be thine." 
 Leaving this "chamber of horrors" we wended 
 our way to the Horse Armory, viewing, as we 
 went along, some very ancient cannon, some of 
 which were very interesting, especially those 
 constructed of wrought iron bars welded togeth- 
 er, encircled witli iron hoops, after cask making- 
 fashion ; stone sliot were used in those days 
 (1400), and not the least interesting among those 
 engines of war was an iron gun, which, after 
 being 300 years in the bottom of the sea, was re- 
 covered by divers, among other things, from the 
 wreck of the " Mary Rose," one of tlie ships of 
 war of Henrv VIII. The 
 
0\'r the Atlantic. 129 
 
 to their tower prison, perhaps never to leave it in 
 this life, for within that gate once, the poor cap- 
 tive was wholly subject to the w^ill and caprice of 
 monarchial power, and liis life, for a given time, 
 not worth a British farthing. It would be next 
 to an impossibility for man to describe all the 
 black deeds and treacherous doings committed 
 here during the early history of England's Kings 
 and Queens, where torture and cruelty in various 
 ways, the axe and the block reigned supreme ; 
 therefore I will proceed as we were shown, and 
 take my readers into the — 
 
 White Tower. — This tower is the oldest and 
 principal building, and stands in the centre of 
 the fortification. A spiral staircase of massive 
 stone between walls of immense thickness leads 
 into the various apartments, among which is the 
 prison room and cell of Sir Walter Raleigh, 
 wherein he wrote his history of the world ; near 
 the entrance to the cell are inscriptions rudely 
 cut in the stones by Rudstow, Fane and CulpepJ 
 per, who were implicated in Sir Thomas Wyatt's 
 rebellion in 1553, w^hich proved so fatal to Lady 
 Jane Grey, and for which Sir Thomas Avas be- 
 headed in the same year. A large room on the 
 upper floor was used as a council room by va- 
 rious Kings, a room of rare antiquity. It was in 
 this room that the Protector Richard, Duke of 
 Gloster, ordered Lord Hastings to be beheaded, 
 ere he, Richard, sat down to his dinner. Tliis 
 room, as are several others in this tow^er, is now 
 
130 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 used as a depository for small arms, ingeniously 
 arranged so as to resemble flowers, &c. The 
 
 B[,()ODY Tower — is the scene of the murder of 
 the young Princes, sons of Edward I\% in 
 1483/ The 
 
 Bell Tower — wherein is hung the alarm bell 
 of the garrison, was in olden time a prison lodg- 
 ing. In it was imprisoned the Bishop of Rocli- 
 ester by command of Henry VIII, it was also 
 the lodging place of Queen Elizabeth, when a 
 prisoner here by command of her sister Mary 
 (bloody Mary), Avho wielded so much power 
 during her eventful reign. The 
 
 Devereux Tower — derives its name from Rob- 
 ert Devereux, Earl of Essex, the great favorite 
 of Oiieen Elizabeth, who was confined therein, 
 and whose death she so much mourned, notw^ith- 
 standing that he was executed by her own order, 
 for, it is said, plotting against her life. Eliza- 
 l:)eth's great struggle between resentment and af- 
 fection, ere she could sign the death warrant, 
 and of which she so bitterly repented when too 
 late, is too well known to need any further com- 
 ments from me on the subject. The 
 
 BowYER Tower — contains a gloomy room 
 wherein George, Duke of Clarence, is said to 
 have been drowned in a butt of wine in 1474. 
 'J1ie 
 
 Brick Tower — was the prison lodging of Lady 
 Jane (irey, and the 
 
 Martin Tower — was also a prison lodging ; 
 
0\'r the Atlantic. 135 
 
 are also exliibited to the curious. On our re- 
 turn through the Horse Armory from this room 
 our attention was particularly directed to an effigy 
 of Charles I on horseback, dressed in a com- 
 plete suit of rich gilt armor, presented to him by 
 the corporation of the city of London, which was 
 very beautiful indeed. Passing from here we next 
 visited the fire and bomb proof njom containing 
 the— 
 
 Regalia of England — the splendor of which 
 we will not attempt to describe. Grouped to- 
 gether on a large stand, covered with crimson 
 cloth and encircled with a massive iron railing, 
 jealously guarded within and without, is the re- 
 galia of England's sovereigns, comprising the 
 Victoria Crown, composed of gold and silver, 
 diamonds and other precious stones, the cap of 
 which is purple velvet. St. Edward's Crown, 
 composed of gold, embellished with diamonds, 
 rubies, emeralds, pearls, &c. The Prince of 
 AVales' crown is of pure gold with no ornaments. 
 The Queen's crown, i. e., that worn by the King's 
 consort, and the Queen's diadem made for the con 
 sort of James II, are very handsome; both are 
 studded with diamonds of a large size and of the 
 purest water, artistically embellished with 
 the finest of pearls. St. Edward's staff is of 
 gold, fovir feet seven inches in length, and is 
 used at coronations, when it is carried before the 
 King or Queen, as it may be. It is surmounted 
 by an orb said to contain a portion of the true 
 
136 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 cross''" The Royal Sceptre is of gold adorn- 
 ed with costly jewels. The Rod of Equity is of 
 gold and ornamented with diamonds. The 
 Queen's Sceptre is of very rich workmanship 
 beautifully adorned with precious stones. An Ivory 
 Sceptre was made for James II's Queen, and 
 another richly wrought golden sceptre was made 
 for William Ill's Queen. Several other arti- 
 cles, generally used at coronations, such as 
 swords, &c., complete the regalia, the value of 
 which, I presume, would be difficult to esti- 
 mate. 
 
 We will now take our leave of this old fortress, 
 prison, palace and armory, Avith its secret passag- 
 es, torture rooms, dungeons, cells and prison lodg- 
 ings, all of which are identified with the dark 
 ages in which the oldest portion of it was built, 
 and as Ave pass by, pause before that gloomy 
 archway, the "Traitor's Gate," where oftentimes 
 have royalty, nobility, the clergy and gentry 
 passed its threshold, to exchange for the bril- 
 liancy of court, pomp and splendor, lofty posi- 
 tions and the comforts of home, the cold and 
 damp walls of a dungeon, the torture room, and 
 last, but not least welcome, the friendly services 
 of the headsman. Sad indeed is thy record, old 
 tower ; a detailed account of the atrocities com- 
 mitted within thy walls would fill volumes ; for 
 eight hundred years hast thou served for various 
 
 * The Cross of our Saviour. 
 
O'er the Atlantic, 133 
 
 Horse Armory — contains on equestrian statues 
 the armor worn by various Kings and others of 
 note, which were superceded during the seven- 
 teenth century, by the general use of firearms. 
 In this room has been collected together the 
 armor and weapons of almost every age of Eng- 
 lish history. Numerous military trophies and 
 emblems adorn the walls and ceilings, and the 
 windows are of stained glass embellished with 
 armorial bearings. The equestrian figures, a 
 good representation of life, occupy the centre of 
 the apartment, with the horses' heads fronting 
 the visitor, clad in the various suits of armor of 
 the period between the reign of Edward I 
 and James II (1272 to 1683), commencing 
 with the old Asiatic chain mail down to the suits 
 of half armor adopted by Charles I ; but to 
 give a descriptive account of the whole would 
 occupy more time and space than the writer can 
 afford — the reader will therefore have to content 
 himself with a brief description of No. i, viz., 
 that on the effigy of Edward I, which is of chain, 
 with heavy spurs and shield of kite shape. The 
 figure is represented in the act of drawing his 
 sword. This was in the time of Bruce and Wal- 
 lace, and in such suits were fought, won and lost 
 the fields of Dunbar, Bannock-burn, &c. From 
 this reign the various suits on the other effigies 
 appear to change in style, as does wearing 
 apparel of the present period, some suits varying 
 much in style and finish. And there are upwards 
 of a score of the figures clad in what may be 
 
134 ^'(^f' f^i^ Atlantic, 
 
 termed the richest style of armor, among which 
 is that worn formerly by Henry, Prince of Wales, 
 son of James I, in 1612. There are also sev- 
 eral very fine suits of foreign armor deposited here, 
 viz., Turkish, Greek, Chinese, Japanese, Roman, 
 &c. Ancient battle axes, swords, spears, daggers, 
 anelaces, spurs, helmets, gauntlets, powder-horns 
 and sundry pieces of armor occupy prominent 
 positions in this and adjoining rooms. 
 
 In a room adjoining that called Queen Eliza- 
 beth's Armory are also many beautiful specimens 
 of old armor, and the first thing that attract- 
 ed oiu" attention were two figures clad in elegant 
 and very bright armor, and a part of the keel of 
 the ship of Avar " Royal George," which sank at 
 Spithead when at anchor there in August, 1782. 
 This apartment is devoted almost exclusively to 
 oriental arms and armor, military trophies, &c., 
 among w^hich are several from Waterloo, 1815, 
 kettle drums from Blenheim, 1704, and a host of 
 others from India and other places where the 
 British arms have been triumphant. Here we 
 saw the sw^ord and sash of the late Duke of York, 
 the cloak of Gen. Wolfe, which he wore when 
 killed at Quebec in 1759, and in 
 
 Queen Elizabeth's Armory — we were showm 
 the beheading block whereon Lords Bal merino, 
 Kilmarnock and Lovat were beheaded in 1746, 
 and the axe used on the occasion ; thumb screws 
 and other instruments of torture and punishment 
 so often used in those days to extort confession, 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 137 
 
 purposes, during which time tlie renowned, tiie 
 notorious and the innocent have pined within 
 thy walls until grim death generously relieved 
 them of thy forced hospitality ; and could thy 
 chapel, wherein rests so many of thy victims, but 
 deliver up its dead to life, much could be related 
 of thee and thy keepers which has never been 
 committed to history. 
 
 In my next I will request my readers to ac- 
 company me to Hampton Court, and Windsor 
 Castle. 
 
138 O'er the A flan tie. 
 
 LETTER XIII. 
 
 ENGLAND, CONTINUED. 
 
 Hampton Court. — Having been permitted to 
 emerge in safety from the confines of the old Tow- 
 er, we the following day went by rail to Hampton 
 Court. This palatial residence is situated on the 
 right bank of the river Thames, twelve miles out 
 of London, and was built by Thomas, Cardinal 
 Wolsey, during the reign of Henry VIII., 
 whose Prime Minister he was for some time ; 1 
 may say minister and favorite, for Wolsey during 
 his days of clover was the readiest of all that 
 monarch's council to advance his capricious 
 whims, and lewd, barbarous conduct, in return for 
 which, all matters of state fell to his goverance 
 alone ; indeed, such was his rule that he became 
 supreme, and such was the power he wielded 
 over King and Court, that he affected to govern 
 without Parliaments, two of which were onl}^ 
 held for fourteen years. He was for many rea- 
 sons the disgrace of his profession, "being lewd 
 and vicious himself, and serving the King (says 
 his biographer) in all his secret pleasures; his 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 139 
 
 pride and pomp was unbounded and his ambition 
 in proportion, for he even aspired to the Pope- 
 dom, which he failed to obtain. He became the 
 owner of vast possessions and his income exceed- 
 ed the revenues of the Crown, thus enabling him 
 to live in the most princely style;" but it is a 
 " long lane that has no turning," for he at last 
 became unpopular with his libertine master, the 
 King, and, eventually, a matter connected with 
 the divorce of Queen Catharine (Catharine of 
 Arragon) and other matters wherein the King 
 was directly interested, shook his power and in- 
 fluence to that extent over his Royal master, that 
 on October 28, 1529, he was commanded to give 
 up the great seal, and his goods were all seized 
 for the King's use and himself impeached in 
 Parliament for exercising power contrary to law, 
 and for the scandalous irregularities of his life. His 
 enemies continued to revile him, and disaster 
 after disaster followed him until he died, when 
 under arrest for treason, November 29, 1530. In 
 his last moments he " regretted that he had not 
 served God with the same fidelity that he had his 
 King." A little before he died he addressed him- 
 himself in the following words to Sir William 
 Kingston, Constable of the tower, who had him 
 in custodv : 
 
 " I pray you have me heartily recommended 
 unto his royal majesty, and beseech him on my 
 behalf to call to his remembrance all matters 
 that have passed between us from the beginning, 
 especially with regard to his business with the 
 
I40 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 Queen, and then lie will know in his conscience 
 whether I have offended him. 
 
 " He is a prince of a most royal carriage, and 
 hath a princely heart and rather than he will 
 miss or want any part of his will, he will endan- 
 ger the one-half of his kingdom. I do assure 
 you that I have often kneeled before him, some 
 times three hours. together, to persuade him from 
 his w^ill and appetite, but could not prevail. 
 Therefore, let me advise you, if you be one of 
 the privy council, as by your Avisdom you are fit, 
 take care what you put into the King's head, for 
 you can never put it out again." — Cavendis/i. 
 
 Thus ended the days of the man who from 
 poverty raised himself to be prime minister of 
 England, the favorite of Emperors, Kings and 
 Princes, and the terror of thousands. A man 
 who wielded such power and influence as but 
 few if any but Richlieu of France ever did, 
 and to whom, history, perhaps has not done just 
 ice. I will now proceed to give a brief descrip- 
 tion of his once princely residence : 
 
 Hampton Court, long before Wolsey became 
 disgraced, but about the time the King began to 
 be jealous of the pomp and splendor he lived in, 
 suddenly became the property of the latter. 
 Stowe remarks of the circumstance thus : "The 
 princely residence began to create envy at court. 
 The King therefore took occasion to question 
 the Cardinal as to his intentions of building a 
 palace that so far surpassed any of the royal pal- 
 aces in England," to which the Cardinal cun- 
 ningly replied "that he was only trying to form 
 
O'er the Atlantic, 141 
 
 a residence worthy of so great a 'monarch, and 
 that Hampton Court palace was the property of 
 King Henry the VUI." This princely gift gained 
 him much favor, and was the immediate means 
 of supporting his waning influence. In return 
 i)X this generous present Henry, who determined 
 not to be outdone in generosity, bestowed upon 
 the Cardinal the Manor of Richmond, an old fa- 
 vorite residence of Henry VH, and with him a 
 favorite resort also, during the early part of his 
 reign. Since whicli time Hampton Court lias 
 been tlie residence of several of the monarchs 
 of England, as also that of Oliver Crom- 
 well and his family. Henry VI was born 
 here October 12th, 1537, and liis mother, 
 
 I Jane Seymour, only survived his birtli a few 
 davs. She was one of the wives of Henry 
 
 ! VIII, and was married to the brute the day after 
 the unfortunate Anne Boleyn was beheaded; but 
 short was her reign as Queen, for she died in 
 about a vear after her marriage. And had slie 
 lived much longer the probability would have 
 been that she, like her predecessors, would have 
 gone headless to the grave. Catharine Howard 
 was his next Queen at Hampton Court, and 
 Catharine Parr followed ; the former shared tlie 
 fate of Anne Boleyn, and the latter but narrowly 
 escaped it also, but ere another op- 
 portunity offered for her decapitation, the tyrani- 
 cal, obstinate, unfeeling and lewd Henry VIII 
 ceased to exist in tliis life. 
 
142 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 Numerous Kings and Queens continued to 
 spend a great portion of their time at Hampton 
 Court, until the reign of George II, who, ac- 
 companied by his Queen, Caroline, were the last 
 of royalty who resided there. 
 
 In its present state Hampton Court is occupied 
 partly by private individuals, pensioners upon 
 the Royal bounty of the Crown, principally, in- 
 deed, I may say all. Ladies of rank without 
 w^ealth, in plain English, empty title ladies, whose 
 sires or husbands have faithfully served their 
 country, leaving nothing but a good record and a 
 name behind them at the time of their death. 
 Apart from the rooms allotted to their use are 
 the state apartments, open to the public gratui- 
 tously on every day of the week except Friday, 
 as are also the beautiful and very extensive 
 grounds w^hich surround it. 
 
 In the state apartments are to be seen beautiful 
 and ancient tapestry, embracing Scriptural and 
 other subjects. Oil paintings, by various masters, 
 of Monarchs, Princes, nobility, and officers of 
 the army and navy, battle and scriptural scenes, 
 &c., some of which are by the most eminent art- 
 ists of their time. There are also in addition to 
 the paintings very ancient furniture, such as mir- 
 rors, bedsteads, tables, and among which is the 
 state bed and hangings of Queen Anne, a clock 
 which goes for twelve months without winding, 
 some fine specimens of crockery and a variety of 
 other equally interesting relics. 
 
O'er the Atlatittc. 143 
 
 The writer having taken his readers hurriedly 
 through this ancient palace, for to give in detail 
 what is to be seen there, would, as he has had oc- 
 casion to remark heretofore, "occupy too much 
 time and space," will therefore have to request 
 his readers to accompany him to a palace of still 
 more grandeur and antiquity ; viz : that of — 
 
 Windsor Castle. — This immense palace is» 
 without exception, the finest and largest of the 
 Royal residences in the united Kingdom, and so 
 vast is its size that it may be termed a town in 
 itself. 
 
 It was first intended for a fortress by William 
 the Conqueror. Henry I enlarged it consid- 
 erably, and in 11 70 Henry l\ held a Parlia- 
 ment there, at which William, King of Scotland, 
 and his brother David were present. Edwards 
 I and n made it their constant residence. In 
 1344 Edw^ard III made vast improvements 
 and additions to it. It was this Prince who here 
 instituted the order of the garter on St. George's 
 day wath much pomp and ceremony in 1349. Ed- 
 ward IV rebuilt on a large scale the beautiful 
 chapel of St. George, and Henrys VII and 
 VIII did much to enlarge and beautify the build- 
 ings and grounds. Queen Mary and her consort, 
 Philip of Spain, made a grand entry into it in 
 1545, after their marriage at Winchester. Eliza- 
 beth, Charles I and II, William III, George 
 III, and especially George IV have con- 
 tributed much to the improvement and enlarge- 
 
M4 CTcr the Atlantic. 
 
 meiit of Windi,or Castle, but to the latter the 
 very magnificent alteration made during his 
 reign, will for ages untold be a monument to his 
 memory. What remained unfinished at the time 
 of his demise were completed by William IV* 
 and her present majesty Queen Victoria. The 
 whole of those improvements, it is said, cost up. 
 wards of one million pounds sterling, and still 
 mechanics are at work adding, embellishing, re- 
 pairing and keeping in repair this ancient and 
 very interesting structure. 
 
 The Queen and the late Prince consort sur- 
 rounded by their family oftentimes retired to 
 Windsor from the gaiety and pleasures of Lon- 
 don. Indeed, Her Majesty had but left the Castle 
 on the day previous to our visit, for her Scottish 
 residence Balmoral, in the north of Scotland, 
 where she generally spends every year a few 
 weeks among her loyal and loving Scotch subjects. 
 Having obtained our cards of admission 
 through a friend before leaving London, we were 
 soon ushered into the state apartments, first reg- 
 istering our names on the visitors' book as we 
 entered the lobby, where stood one of Her Maj- 
 esty's servants clad in the Royal livery, that of 
 scarlet turned up with gold lace. The state 
 apartments, the round tower and St. George's 
 chapel are all that arc shown during Her Majes- 
 ty's absence. 'J^ie private apartments, i. e., those 
 wherein she resides, setting royalty, I may say, 
 aside, can only be seen during the time that the 
 court is here. 
 
0\t the Atlantic. 145 
 
 We first entered the audience chamber, tlie 
 walls of wliich are hung with fine Goberlin tapes- 
 try, illustrative partly of the history of Queen 
 Esther and Mordecai, and oil paintings of Wil- 
 liam II, Frederick, Prince of Orange, and Mary, 
 Oueen of Scots. Next is the- Vandyke room, 
 containing about thirty beautiful portraits by tiie 
 eminent artist of that name; they represent 
 Kings, Queens, Princes, nobles and others. 
 
 The State Drawing room contains a few very 
 fine vScriptural paintings and Royal portraits by 
 Ruccarolli. 
 
 The Sta];e Ante-room, the ceiling of which is 
 painted by X'erri, representing a banquet of the 
 (rods, contains some verv fine carving, and a 
 stained glass portrait of George III is placed 
 over the fireplace. From here we passed over 
 the grand staircase into the vestibule which con- 
 tains militarv trophies and suits of armor highlv 
 interesting, and then entered the — 
 
 Waterloo Chamber, an elegant large room. 
 On the walls are hung various portraits by Sir 
 Thomas Lawrence, among which is a very fine 
 one of the Duke of Wellington, as he appeared 
 in the city on the day of thanksgiving after the 
 battle of Waterloo, so fatal t(j the interest of the 
 first Napoleon, but the means. of restoring peace 
 and confidence in Euro})e. 
 
 The Presence Chamber, the carving and glid- 
 ing in this room is grand, and the walls are hung 
 with the finest and richest of (robelin tapestrv, 
 descriptive of the history of the golden fieece. 
 
 F 
 
146 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 In my next I will give to my readers the re- 
 mainder of what we saw in Windsor Castle, as 
 also what other sights and scenes we saw during 
 our stay in the great metropolis of Great Britain, 
 and then leave its hospitable shore for a while to 
 visit France. 
 
O'c]- the Atlantic. 147 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 ENGLAND, CONTINUED. 
 
 Windsor Castle, Continued. — From the " Pres- 
 ence Chamber" we were conducted into St. 
 George's Hall, a room two hundred feet long, thir- 
 ty-four feet broad and thirty-two feet liigh. It is 
 the grand banqueting hall, the ceiling is deco- 
 rated with tlie armorial bearings of all the knights 
 of the garter up to the present time, and on the 
 walls are many line portraits in oil of all the 
 Sovereigns from James 1 to George IV. 
 The Guard Chamber contains arms and specimens 
 of ancient armor very ingeniouslv arranged on 
 the walls, and there are several life-like effigies, 
 armed cap-a-pie., lance in hand, and busts of 
 Wellington and Marlborough, over the heads of 
 which are placed silk banners, regularly renewed 
 on the anniversaries of the battles of Waterloo 
 and Blenheim. Over the fire place is the beau- 
 tiful shield, in a glass case, which was presented 
 by Frances I, of France, to Henry VIII> 
 on the field of the Cloth of Gold, so called from 
 the gorgeous and magnificent display made on 
 
148 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 that occasion by those Monarch s and their 
 retinues, when they met socially between the two 
 towns named Guisnes and Ardres, in France, in 
 1520, where also " tlie nobility of France and 
 England" displayed their magnificence with such 
 emulation and profuse expense, as to procure for 
 the place of interview the name of " the Field 
 of the Cloth of Gold." 
 
 Among numerous otlier relics and curiosities 
 in this Chamber are two chairs, one made from 
 tlie oak of AUoway Kirk (immortalized by Burns 
 in his poem of Tam O'Shanter and Souter John- 
 ny), and the other from the oak tree where the 
 13uke of Wellington and staff stood while direct- 
 ing the battle of Waterloo. The Queen s Fresejice 
 CJianiher was the last room Ave were shown into, 
 the ceiling of which is beautifully painted by 
 Verrio, representing Catharine, Queen of Charles 
 11, supported by Religion, Prudence, Forti- 
 tude, and other virtues attending her, and the 
 walls are hung with gobelin tapestry, containing 
 the illustrative history (as in tlie Audience Cham- 
 ber) of Oueen Esther and Mordecai. We next 
 proceeded to view St. George's Chapel^ the exterior 
 of which bears on its face the marks of old age^ 
 and entered just as preparations were being made 
 to hold the regular afternoon service. So imitat- 
 ing the example set us by other visitors, we ap- 
 })ropriated to ourselves seats, and were shortly 
 afterwards silent listeners to the most beautiful 
 chantinof 1 ever heard, the fine undulatincr tones 
 
O'er the Atlantic, 149 
 
 of the organ and the voices of some of the juve- 
 nile chanters being of the most exquisite kind. 
 The service was in full cathedral style, and was 
 conducted with much solemnity ; indeed, it was 
 a solemn and grand manner of worshiping 
 Almighty God, vrhich even of itself amply repaid 
 me for visiting Windsor Castle. 
 
 Divine worship being over we proceeded to 
 view all that was interesting within this ancient 
 edifice. The carving in oak and stone are very 
 fine, as are also the stained and painted windows, 
 especially that recently erected by the Queen to 
 the memory of the Prince Consort, to whom she 
 was devotedly attached and whose memory she 
 lias never ceased to mourn. A tribute his mem- 
 ory is not undeserving of, for he was not only a 
 great man but a good man, beloved by all, af- 
 fable and kind, and in every respect fitted for the 
 proud position he was destined to fill while on 
 earth.^- A character his children would do well 
 to emulate, especially the Prince of Wales, who 
 will sooner or later have to play an important 
 part in the State affairs of Great Britain. 
 
 The choir wherein divine service is lield is the 
 place where the knights of the garter are in- 
 stalled, and over each of their stalls (sitting- 
 places) is suspended each knight's respective 
 banner with his armorial bearings emblazoned 
 tlicreon, directly under which is placed the hel- 
 
 * The Prince, during his lifetime, was very partial lo 
 Windsor, and made it liis principal and favorite residence. 
 
150 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 met, crest, sword and mantle, and at the back of 
 each stall is a brass lacquered plate, inscribed 
 with the name, title and style of each of the fol- 
 lowers of St. George. A great many of such 
 plates adorn the backs of some of the stalls, 
 Avhercon are recorded the names of those knights 
 who have from time to time gone to that world 
 where title and style a^aileth them not, and on 
 the several windows of the choir are also painted 
 their respective coats c>f arms. 
 
 The Queen s Closet, and the stalls wherein sit 
 the various members of the Royal familv are 
 eagerly sought for and scrutinized closely bv 
 visitors, and lastly the various tombs are visited. 
 The royal tomb or vault is near the altar, and I 
 was informed only contains the remains of 
 Charles I, Henry VIII and Jane Seymour. 
 Various others of the royal family being interred 
 elsewliere. In a small chapel is a splendid mar- 
 ble monument to the memory of that most ex- 
 cellent and estimable lady the Princess Charh)tte, 
 wife of the late King Leopold, of Belgium. It 
 represents the body of the deceased on a bier, 
 covered with drapery, with an attendant at each 
 corner kneeling in despondency and sorrow ; in 
 the back ground is represented the spirit ascend- 
 ing, supported bv two angels, one of whom bears 
 aloft her infant child. This elegant piece of 
 workmanship appears to great advantage from 
 the reflection of the stained glass window of the 
 little chapel, which diffuses a beautiful soft gold- 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 151 
 
 en light around. There are several other very 
 fine monuments there, one recently erected by 
 order of the Queen to the memory of the hus- 
 band of the Princess Charlotte ("Leopold, King 
 of the Belgians,") who was the Queen's uncle, 
 and several others to the memory of others of 
 
 ' the royal family, military and naval heroes, &c. 
 And beneath a lofty stone called the royal tomb- 
 
 i house erected by Henry VIII, are the re- 
 mains of the Princess Amelia, 18 10 — Princess 
 
 , Charlotte, 1818 — Duke of Kent, 1820 — George 
 
 ! .Ill, 1820 Duke of York, 1827 George 
 
 IV, 1830 — William IV, 1837 — Princess Au- 
 gusta, 1820, and the Dowager Queen Adelaide, 
 
 I 1849. The "Duke of Kent" was the father of 
 the present Queen, and had he been permitted to 
 
 I survive "William IV," would have been 
 King of Great Britain ; hence, why his only 
 child, Victoria, became Queen, a position she has 
 filled for thirty years with the greatest honor 
 and credit, respected and beloved both at home 
 and abroad. The Dutchess of Kent (the Queen's 
 mother) and Prince Albert are interred in the 
 vault at Frogmore l^ouse, the late residence of 
 the Dutchess, which is also open to visitors, but 
 time would not permit of our going there. 
 
 Before leaving Windsor Castle we visited the 
 Round Tower and Terrace grounds. One hun- 
 dred steps, then a wide spiral stairway, and as 
 many more, perhaps double the quantity of steps 
 brought us to the top of the former, and from 
 
152 ' 0\n' the Atlantic. 
 
 which we obtained au excellent view of the Cas- 
 tle and grounds, and also of the several counties 
 (^f Berks, Bucks, Surrey, Middlesex, Oxford, 
 Hants, Wilts, Essex, Hertford, Bedford and 
 Kent. From tlie flagstaff towering high above 
 us is hoisted to the breeze, while Her Majesty 
 resides in the castle, the royal standard, and we 
 were informed that in apartments in this tower, 
 David, King of Scotland and France, and the 
 Earl of Surrey were confined. At present it is 
 converted into apartments for the accommoda- 
 tion of visitors, &c. 
 
 While on the terrace we obtained an excellent 
 view of the winding river, "old father Thames," 
 and of Eaton College, founded in 1440 by Henry 
 \'I, so popular as one of the upper schools 
 of England. We also saw a monster cannon im- 
 ported from China, which weighs over seven 
 tons. Many other things worthy of note are to 
 be seen in and around Windsor Castle, for in- 
 stance, the royal mews (Queen's stables), riding 
 school, gardens, the home Park, Frogmore lodge. 
 Ascot race course, Virginia water, &c. But alas, 
 we had no time to visit thc^e places, so had re- 
 luctantly to bid old Windsor and its fine castle 
 farewell, and take the six p. m. train for London, 
 via. Paddington, thence by the '^ Metropolitan 
 underground railway" to Moorgate street in the 
 city, near to our hotel in Basinghall street, where 
 w^e arrived quite fatigued, yet well satisfied with 
 our trip to Windsor. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. i53 
 
 I will now have to "make a long story short," 
 contenting myself with giving my readers but a 
 brief account of the other places we visited dur- 
 ing our stay in London, some of which 
 were very interesting. I will first name the 
 British Museum, and let me here remark that no 
 person should visit London without going to see 
 this honeycomb of antiquities and rare curiosi- 
 ties, to enumerate which would occupy a 
 lifetime of scores of years. Suffice it to say that 
 it contains in part, mummies, skeletons ol ani- 
 mals, stuffed birds, ancient and modern coins, 
 minerals, precious stones, golden nuggets, gold 
 dust, ancient and modern sculpture, ancient 
 tombs from Asia, quaint and costly relics from 
 . Nineveh, ancient documents, letters, seals, books, 
 pictures, statuary and hosts of other remarka- 
 ble, nay, astonishing, things of the past ages, 
 dating back thousands of years beyond the 
 christian era. To do justice to which, months 
 should be spent by the visitor and antiquarian in 
 exploring this seat of wonder, containing won- 
 ders ; and if you should want to see anything 
 that the human mind can think of, go to the 
 British Museum, and I verily believe you will 
 find it there. 
 
 I will now proceed to give an equally briel ac- 
 count of Sydenham Crystal Palace, the most mag- 
 nificent place, I believe, in the world. We spent 
 there a whole day, and I was only too sorry 
 when leaving, to know I could not make it con- 
 
154 O^cr the Atlantic, 
 
 venient to go there again,' but I came away 
 charmed with the land of flowers, beautiful 
 shrubbery, playing fountains, elegant statuary, 
 smooth terraces, fine gravel walks, shady little 
 nooks, beautiful fish ponds abounding'^witli gold- 
 en and other fish. Its hills and dales, romantic and 
 picturesque beyond conception, and lastly its truly 
 magnificent and spacious glass building, abound- 
 ing with novelties of every age. Sydenham Pal- 
 ace is that, to a certain extent, which was erected 
 in 1851, in Hyde Park, London, for the exhibition 
 of industry of all nations, taken down and re- 
 moved to this place for re-erection, which has 
 been done with some further improvements and 
 alterations, making it to-day the wonder and ad- 
 miration of the world. Indeed, the vast build- 
 ing is a city of workshops and stores in itself! 
 And while we were within its glass walls, 
 I had the pleasure of hearing the celebrat- 
 ed English tenor singer, Sims Reeves, and others 
 of vocal celebrity, male and female, among 
 whom was Madam Santan Dolby, a star of much 
 magnitude in the profession. They sang in the 
 great Handel Orchestra, w4iich is capable of ac- 
 commodating four thousand performers. 
 
 The building is divided into courts, represent- 
 ing the architecture, &c., peculiar to the various 
 countries and places they are named after, of 
 which there are ten ; viz : — the Egyptian court, 
 Greek, Roman, Alhambra, Nineveh, Byzantine, 
 English, Mediaeval, Renaissance and Italian 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 155 
 
 courts. There is also a place called the Pompei- 
 an house, and there are also what may be termed 
 courts of industry, which are open for the man- 
 ufacture and sale of various articles to visitors ; 
 for instance, the ^'Sheffield court'' is an establish- 
 ment open for the sale of what we call in 
 America, hardw^are, which means there iron-mon- 
 gery, and which includes cutlery, &c. This court 
 is a beautiful structure of glass and iron. In the 
 BirmingJiam court, another very fine place, is ex- 
 hibited for sale the various articles peculiar to 
 the place from w^hich it .takes its name. There 
 may be seen sewing machines in operation, silk 
 weaving, braid making, glass blowing, wood and 
 ivory carving, &c., &c. In short, you can obtain 
 within the walls of this hive of industry, articles 
 fashioned after the style of almost every country 
 on the globe. After the various courts follow the 
 main galleries, model gallery and picture gallery. 
 The main galleries are loaded with various arti- 
 cles from Europe, Asia, Africa and America, 
 among Avhich are rare and choice specimens of 
 Indian arms, armor. Oriental garments, models 
 of Indian Mosques and Pagodas, curious and 
 quaint carving in wood and ivory. The model 
 gallery contains models of bridges, houses, ves- 
 sels and marine appliances, designed and execut- 
 ed in Great Britain. In this department can be 
 seen, of precise dimensions, an exact model of 
 Shakespeare's house in Stratford-upon-Avon, 
 and a model of the Britannia tubular bridge 
 
156 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 erected across the Menai strait in North Wales. 
 And in the picture gallery is exhibited upwards 
 of one thousand pictures in oil, water colors and 
 crayon, the productions of the most eminent 
 artists of the age, both of the English, French, 
 Belgium, Dutch German and other schools, some 
 of which visitors purchase daily, and their vacant 
 places are occupied by others immediately, to ac- 
 complish w^iich some twelve hundred pictures 
 are constantly kept on hand. 
 
 In the Transepts and Nave are some of the 
 finest statuary that human eye ever rested upon, 
 some of which are of marvellous size. 
 
 In the Carriage department are carriages of el- 
 egant workmanship, constructed of the very best 
 materials, but in their construction about 
 three times the amount of wood and iron is used 
 tliat is used by carriage makers in this country, 
 which gives them to the eye of an American res- 
 ident a very clumsy and cumbersome appearance. 
 I certainly saw no necessity for such waste of 
 materia], for they have the most beautiful roads 
 to travel over I ever saw. 
 
 In the large basement of the palace is an 
 American skating pond, i. e., a prepared floor 
 whereon the parlor skates are freely used, an ex- 
 cellent place to teach the young their preliminary 
 lessons in skating before taking to the ice. There 
 are also within the extent of the grounds a mag- 
 nificent rosary, secondary island, geological is.- 
 lands of extinct islands and animals. 
 
<9Vr the Atlantic. i57 
 
 We must now bid adieu to London for the 
 present, and take my readers to France, but will 
 speak further of the great metropolis and its 
 other si<^hts on our return from the continent. 
 
158 O'er the Atlantic, 
 
 LETTER XV. 
 
 FRANCE. 
 
 France. — Having made preparations to leave 
 London for a few weeks, one fine morning 
 we started for the continent ; taking the train 
 from London Bridge station, we were soon en 
 route for Paris, and in a couple of hours were 
 on board the steamer which was to take us across 
 the channel from Ncav Haven to Dieppe. Such 
 a steamer ! A little craft more fit for a tug-boat 
 than to carry passengers,* a disgrace to a civ- 
 ilized people. Not only is this remark applica- 
 ble to England, but also to other European coun- 
 tries. In this great country (i. e. America) the 
 comfort of all classes is studied both on rail and 
 on water ; but in Europe tlie poor man is sup- 
 posed to have little flesh or blood ; at all events, 
 if otherwise, it is estimated at much below par, 
 and indeed, so far as expense is concerned, trav- 
 eling is equally as expensive as in America. Then 
 
 * In this and other respects I will say that Uncle Sam is 
 far in advance of John Bull for accommodations both on 
 board railway cars and steamers. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. i59 
 
 why is it that the comfort of the people cannot be 
 studied equally as well ? The answer is ^ s. d ! 
 "The rank is but the guinea-stamp, 
 The man is the gowd for a' that." 
 Leaving New Haven the small craft steamed 
 across the British channel at the rate of ten miles 
 per hour, and in seven hours we were landed on 
 the quay at Dieppe, whence we proceeded imme- 
 diately to the railway station, there to take the 
 cars for Paris. And as we have to return via. 
 Dieppe, I will refrain from giving any account 
 of the place until our return. So after par- 
 taking of refreshments we took our seats in a su- 
 perior carriage to those we traveled in while on 
 the other side of the channel, and commenced 
 the overland journey through ancient Norman- 
 dy, of which I shall also speak hereafter, to the gay 
 metropolis of France. Away we sped, travers- 
 ing the banks of the Seine nearly the whole way, 
 until we arrived in Paris, which we entered late 
 at night, and were soon driven to the Hotel de 
 Londres et Milan, in the Rue St. Ayacinthe,* a 
 house recommended to us by an old friend whom 
 I had the pleasure of meeting when in Wales, 
 which, unfortunately for us, was crowded with 
 sight seers to the Exhibition ; but the proprietor 
 very politely informed us that if we would con- 
 descend to occupy apartments for the night, 
 which they had engaged for sleeping rooms 
 
 * Robespierre met his tragic fate in a room in this build- 
 ing. 
 
i6o O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 apart from the hotel, that in the morning we 
 should be accommodated with rooms in the ho- 
 tel ; which proposition we, being fatigued, gladly 
 accepted. 
 
 Morning came and found us like many more 
 in the world-renowned city of Paris, with but a 
 mighty slim knowledge of the French language, 
 about a dozen words being all the writer 
 had at his command, and even those few of so 
 very an imperfect pronunciation, tliat it was with 
 greatest difficulty he could make Johnny Crapeau 
 comprehend their meaning, a circumstance most 
 harrassing and perplexing to a foreigner. 
 
 Paris appeared to me to be all France, and the 
 only place in the. whole Empire, probably, where 
 rapid and A^ast improvements were being made. 
 The piles of buildings which have been torn down 
 to give place to others of more style and beauty, 
 and to widen streets and thoroughfares, during 
 the reign of the present Emperor, is astonishing, 
 and the comparison between ancient and 
 modern Paris to-dav is so o'reat that it is called 
 the handsomest city in the world. It certainly 
 has some fine places ; for instance, the Rue de 
 Rivoli is an elegant street, comprised of stores, 
 exhibiting the finest and most costly works of 
 Parisian art and fashion. Directly opposite 
 which is the elegant Palace of the-Tuilleries 
 with its extensive gardens and public prome- 
 nades. The Boulevards des Italiens and other 
 public thoroughfares are also very fine, and af- 
 
O'er the Atlantie. i6i 
 
 ford delightful "walks beneath the shade of nu- 
 merous well planted trees, while the Champs Elys- 
 ses is the most delightful place in the whole city. 
 We had an opportunity of visiting this fashiona- 
 ble drive and promenade during the " Fetes de 
 Napoleon," a national holiday lilvC that of our 
 fourth of Julv, upon which occasion it is illumi- 
 nated at night with tens of thousands of gas 
 lights shaded with variegated glass globes, form- 
 ing, from the entrance to the gardens of the Tuil- 
 leries, through the Place de la Concorde to the 
 Arc de Triomphe, at the extreme end, a most 
 magnificent and brilliant scene, such as is but 
 seldom witnessed. I was walking along this 
 charming place one day during the preparations 
 which were being made for the Fetes, upon 
 which occasion I was fortunate, for it was the 
 only time I saw the Emperor during my stay in 
 the city. My attention w^as first called to the 
 fact of his presence by the sudden and rather 
 tame remark of some person near me saying, 'ie 
 Empereur ! le Empereur!" Then I saw the 
 crowd run to the sidewalks ; of course I was 
 glad of the opportunity thus afforded me to see 
 the man who has occupied for years so promi- 
 nent a position in the affairs of Europe, so fol- 
 lowed the crowd. 
 
 At a leisurely pace came along two open car- 
 riages, each drawn by four beautiful and richly 
 caparisoned horses, with postillions, i. e., drivers 
 riding each near horse, attended by a small es- 
 
162 
 
 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 cort. First came their Majesties the Emperor 
 and Empress, accompanied by their Majesties the 
 King and Queen of Sweden, then on a visit at 
 the Tuilleries. In the other carriage rode foiir 
 gentlemen, whose names were unknown ; proba- 
 bly members of their suite. I was astonished 
 that there was no excitement, such as cheering, 
 &c. ; but no, there was scarcely any notice taken 
 of the cortege except by foreigners, which caused 
 me to think that Louis was anything but popu- 
 lar among his people. One tiling is certain, he 
 is not popular with himself, for he looked hag- 
 gard, thin and careworn, and is a much smaller 
 man than I had frequently imagined him to be. 
 Looking at the various portraits of him, he ap- 
 pears to be a man of much above tlie medium 
 height, but it is not so ; I scarcely think that he 
 is any taller than "King John's man" (5 ft. 6 in.). 
 I will now speak of the — 
 
 "'■Pahiis de V Exposition Unlversalle,'' or, in plain 
 English, the " International Exhibition," which 
 is erected on the groiuids of the Champs de Mars^ 
 whereon the first Emperor assembled his army 
 on liis return from Elba, when they took the 
 oath of allegiance to him. It is constructed of 
 iron, lighted from the roof, is of oval form and 
 covers about 40 acres of ground ; its outward 
 appearance is not so much to be admired, but the 
 interior is admirably arranged in the most sys- 
 tematic and simple manner, and for the display 
 of goods it has no equal. The grounds that sur- 
 
O^er the Atlantic. 163 
 
 round it are ttistefully and beautifully laid out, 
 and trees and flowers of ever}^ description adorn 
 its wide avenues and walks. 
 
 The Park contains buildings, representing the 
 style of architecture of various nations, as also 
 model theatres, forms, dairies, hothouses, facto- 
 ries, mills, &c., with the various machinery in mo- 
 tion. To give an account of all that can be seen 
 within or without, or even one hundredth part of 
 it, would be perfectly futile ; suffice it to say that 
 tliere o-athered too^ether is the handiwork of the 
 industry of the inhabitants of almost every na- 
 tion on the surface of the globe. 
 
 The exhibition comprises three portions; viz., 
 that called the Park, the Garden and the Billan- 
 court, the latter being an island on the wSeine, 
 situated a few hundred vards from the Champs 
 de Mars, and set apart for agricultural exhibi- 
 tions and field experiments of machines, etc. 
 Apropos of this department, let me say that 
 there American inventions stood A, No. i, Mc- 
 Cormick's implements, especially his reaping 
 and mowing machines, taking the first prize. 
 
 The interior of the great oval palace contains 
 wares and merchandise of domestic and foreign 
 manufacture, and we passed through the va- 
 rious circles, commencing from the left of the 
 grand vestibule and returning to the point 
 of departure ; and then commenced another cir- 
 cle, then another and another, until we traversed 
 five or six, which occupied us three days. While 
 
164 o'er the Atlantic. 
 
 traversing those wide circles or avenues 
 of trade, for goods were not only on exliibition 
 but for sale also, we passed by the respective di- 
 visions appropriated to and occupied by the sev- 
 eral countries who had forwarded goods for exhi- 
 bition. First carne France and its colonies, Al- 
 geria, Netherlands, Belgium, Prussia, German 
 States, Austria, Switzerland, Spain, Portugal, 
 Greece, Denmark, Sweden and Norway, Russia, 
 Italy, Roman States, Danubian Principalities, 
 Turkey, Egypt, China, Siam, Japan, Persia, Af- 
 rica, Australasia, United States, Mexico, Brazil, 
 Republics of Central and Southern America, 
 and lastly Great Britain and Ireland, each coun- 
 try exhibiting such articles as were manufactured 
 Avithin their respective territories, some of which 
 were of the most elaborate workmanship, and a 
 wonder in artistic skill. France exhibited, in 
 addition to her manufactures, very many rare 
 and costly relics, some of which dated back long 
 before the Christian era, a most interesting col- 
 lection. 
 
 The space allotted to the United States, I must 
 (^onfess, was but small, but it appears to make 
 up for it they were given an additional place 
 witliin the grounds, apart from the main build- 
 ing, which Ave A'isited, and Avhere AA^as on exhibi- 
 tion the finest and best finished locomotive, 
 named the America, of all that Avere Avithin the 
 palace Avails, and I Avas informed, hoAV correctly- 
 I cannot say, that the Emperor had, or Avas then 
 negotiating its purchase. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 165 
 
 The outside of the outer circle was occupied 
 by Cafes (sak)ons), a phice appropriated to the 
 various countries represented in the palace, 
 wherein could be obtained refreshments peculiar 
 to the country whose flag hung over the en- 
 trance, eating and drinking according to your 
 taste or whim, and l)e waited upon by persons 
 attired in the respective costumes of the country 
 they represented, and speaking the language ; 
 there all could be accommodated according to 
 their tastes, for instance. We of course visited 
 the " U. S. Cafe," wliere the most fastidious Yan- 
 kee could be accommodated with tlie choicest 
 morsels and most delightful drinks that he ever 
 partook of even in a first class Broadway saloon, 
 and our German American citizens could enlarge 
 their dimensions by partaking, as is their wont, 
 of any quantity of bologna sausages, rye bread, 
 ,s\veitzer-case and bock beer. 
 
 1 will now ask my readers to leave 
 the Exposition, and accompany me to the 
 
 Hotel des Invalides. — This immense charita- 
 ble institution was commenced by Touis 
 XIV, in 167 1, and restored by Napoleons I and 
 III. It gives shelter to about 3,000 maimed, old 
 and invalided soldiers, and under its dome now 
 rests the remains of the once great Napoleon, 
 which were removed from St. Helena in 1840. 
 Tlie crypt of circular form is open, the sarcopha- 
 gus is placed in the centre, and the walls are em- 
 bellished with statuary of colossal proportions, 
 representing the Emperor's twelve principal vie- 
 
1 66 , O'er the Atlaiitie. 
 
 tories. A marble staircase leads to the entrance 
 of this crypt, and on the right and left are maus- 
 oleums of Duroc and Bertrand, two of his faith- 
 ful generals and sharers of his captivity. The 
 tomb is upwards of four yards long, two feet 
 wide, about five feet high, and stands on a green 
 granite base. In a black marble vault, facing 
 the entrance door, stands a white marble statue 
 of the deceased Emperor, attired in coronation 
 robes. 
 
 Before leaving this building I was shown, 
 among other things, the plans in bas-relief of 
 the principal strongholds of France, which were 
 really worth seeing; for large cities and forts, 
 Avith their extensive grounds in and around 
 them, in miniature, was almost like visiting the 
 originals in person. Such plans cannot fail to 
 give the engineer a very accurate knowledge of 
 tlie strength and position of such places during 
 a seige. 
 
 In the library are about 20,000 volumes of 
 choice military works, and while in there I was 
 shown the bullet which killed Turenne, in 1675, 
 two torches used by him in his campaign, a sil- 
 ver model of his equestrian statue, and a plan in 
 relief of the " Hotel des Invalides," leaving 
 which we emerged into the open air and viewed 
 some cannon, which are arranged right and left 
 of the entrance, comprised of Algerian, Chinese 
 and French manufacture. The latter were those 
 that formerly belonged to the ''Armv of Egypt." 
 More anon. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 167 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 
 FRANCE, CONTINUED, 
 
 From the " Hotel des Invalides" we proceeded 
 in the charge of a guide and interpreter, a very 
 intelligent person, to visit other places of inter- 
 est and note. First visiting the " Halles Cen- 
 tral" (market place), Commercial Courts, where 
 all matters connected with commerce are judi- 
 cially settled, and Saint Chapelle, or the Holy 
 Chapel, a most magnificent place built in 1245 
 by St. Louis, to contain the crown of thorns, the 
 cross, spear, and other so-called relics of our 
 Saviour. It is divided into two chapels, upper 
 and lower, the upper one being much superior 
 and more extravagantly decorated than the low- 
 er one; the walls and ceilings are profusely cov- 
 ered with gilt, and the carving in wood is very 
 elegant. The lower chapel is, notwithstanding 
 the line of comparison that I have drawn, a very 
 beautiful place also. Leaving here we proceed- 
 ed to the Cathedral de Notre Dame, a stupen- 
 dous piece of masonry of the most ancient order, 
 with its scores of statues representing scriptural 
 subjects, adorning the main entrance, and other 
 
1 68 (9Vr the Atlantic. 
 
 embellishments in stone of the rarest kind. It 
 Avas in the course of completion for three hun- 
 dred 3'ears, is three hundred and ninety feet long, 
 one hundred and forty feet wide, one hundred 
 and two feet high, and of the Gothic style. A 
 ver\^ handsome tomb in memory (jf Archbishop 
 Affre is erected within its walls. The Bishop 
 was killed in 1848 when endeavoring to stay the 
 insurrection of that period. 
 
 In the church of St. Etienne du Mont, arc two 
 beautiful spiral staircases of very elegant work- 
 manship, and it contains the tomb of St. Gene- 
 vieve, the patron Saint of Paris. The Pantheon 
 is the scene of the conflict between the people 
 and ihe troops, in 1848, and the massive cohuiins 
 of the ■ main entrance, as also parts of the inte- 
 rior, bear evidence on their face, of the severe 
 conflict that raged between them. Tlie people 
 raised barricades, took possession of the church 
 and fought from within its gates with that des- 
 peration only known to a people fully bent upon 
 not being conquered but in death. For a long 
 time they held possession of the place until it 
 was riddled with shot, when, finding further re- 
 sistance useless, they commenced the work of 
 death among themselves, until not one was left 
 to render an account of their doings upon earth. 
 So when the military entered the church, it was 
 only to find nothing but the bleeding corpses of 
 a brave and determined people, who would rather 
 die than give in to despotic power. In this 
 church lie the remains of \''oltaire and Rousseau. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 169 
 
 The Hotel de Cluiiy was built in the fifteenth 
 century by the Abbots of Cluny, and has quite 
 an ancient appearance. Mary of England, wid- 
 ow of Louis XII, and James of ^Scotland resided 
 tliere. It is now used as a museum for the re- 
 ception of antiquities, with which it is liberally 
 supplied. Old paintings in oil and tapestry, 
 adorn the walls, and in the various chambers can 
 be seen choice and rare articles manufactured 
 many centuries ago. The Palais du Luxembourg 
 Avas built in 16 15 by Catharine de Medicis for a res- 
 idence, and is now the French Senate or House 
 of Peers. The State apartments are richlv dec- 
 orated and contain magnificent paintings of the 
 wars of Napoleon. The throne room, wherein 
 is the ancient throne and chair of the first Em- 
 peror, is a most elegant room, and the Senate 
 Chamber, which represents very much the same 
 style as the Senate Chamber in Washington, is 
 also elegantly fitted and furnished. 
 
 The Corps Legislatif, wherein assembles the 
 Congress of France, is similarly fitted to that of 
 the Luxembourg, and also contains some verv 
 fine paintings, especially a full length portrait of 
 the present Emperor, which shows him to be a 
 much larger man than he really is. 
 
 The Church of the Madeline, by some persons 
 thought to be the finest building in Paris, is sur- 
 rounded with fifty-two Corinthian pillars. It 
 was commenced during the reign of the first 
 Napoleon, and completed in 1842, and the inte- 
 
1 70 ' O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 rior is very fine indeed. We visited several other 
 places of worship, all of which had within their 
 walls more or less persons paying their devotions 
 at the shrine of their favorite saint, for which we 
 (among others) were expected to pay, gratuities 
 being demanded, and alms for various purposes 
 by hosts of beggars, of all ages, so that the sight- 
 seeker has to have his hand in his purse con- 
 tinually. The cry is give ! give ! ! This is the 
 great evil over all Europe. The traveler and 
 stranger is bored incessantly and in various man- 
 ners and ways for the filthy lucre, until he is 
 quite at a loss to know when he has done paying. 
 An abominable system, and one that should be 
 decidedly abolished. 
 
 The Place Vendome is a large square, in the 
 centre of which stands a high column erected by 
 Napoleon I, to commemorate his German cam- 
 paign. It is formed of 1,200 captured cannon, 
 and is surmounted by a statue of himself attired 
 in state robes. 
 
 The Palais du Louvre, a very extensive build- 
 ing, was commenced by Francis I, and enlarged 
 by succeeding sovereigns. It is now used as a 
 museum, containing hundreds, nay thousands, of 
 rare and beautiful pictures by the most eminent 
 masters; historical relics of various ages and a 
 fine library also adorns the interior. 
 
 The magnificent Palais of the Tuilleries ad- 
 joins the Palais du Louvre. It was founded by 
 Catharine de Medicis, and is at present the city 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 17 1 
 
 residence of Louis Napoleon and his Empress 
 Eugenie. The Emperor has caused to be done 
 much to enlarge and beautify it, but owing to 
 the court being at home we could not gain ad- 
 mittance into the interior. 
 
 To enumerate and speak of all the public 
 buildings of Paris that we visited, for it is a citv 
 of palaces, is almost next to "impossible; so I 
 shall have to reluctantly abandon even *the 
 thought, and speak of other points of interest, 
 commencing with the — 
 
 Place de la Concorde. — Tliis very magnificent 
 place was originally intended to receive a statue 
 of Louis XV, and was called after him ; but at 
 the Revolution, so fatal to the blood royal and 
 nobility of France, this statue was replaced by 
 an image of liberty, and subsequently by the 
 murderous guillotine, on which perished Louis 
 XVI, Marie Antoinette, the Duke of Orleans 
 and a multitude of others of the best blood of 
 France. Around the place are eight very fine 
 marble statues, which represent the largest cities 
 of France ; and in the centre stands an obelisk, 
 brought from Egypt, on either side of which are 
 two large fountains, the whole presenting, espe- 
 cially at night, with its very numerous gas lights, 
 a most magnificent scene. The Obelisk of Lux- 
 or, from the ruins of Thebes, in Upper Egypt, 
 occupies a prominent position here, and has for 
 the last 40 years. It is covered with hiero- 
 glyphics, and is over 4,000 years old ; which, to- 
 
72 G*er the Atlantic. 
 
 gether with the colossal statuary, representing 
 the principal cities of France, and the magnifi- 
 cent fountains, form a grand spectacle. 
 
 The Bridges across the Seine^ of which there 
 are many, are also well worthy the attention of 
 the stranger. They are beautiful works of art, 
 some of which are highly embellished with stat- 
 uary, placed on the pillars supporting the arches, 
 and facing up and down the river. I would like 
 much to be able to give a more liberal and 
 graphic account of Paris, but to enable me to do 
 so, it would require of me a residence of many 
 months. 
 
 Near to this spot is the Palais de I'Elysee, 
 where Napoleon signed his last abdication, and 
 wherein the Duke of Wellington, Murat,* the 
 Emperor of Russia, Madame de Pompadour, 
 and Napoleon III, when President, have resided 
 at various times. 
 
 The Bois de Bolougne, once the favorite hunt- 
 ing ground of the Kings of France, is now a 
 favorite place of resort with the gay and fashion- 
 able Parisians. It is very beautifully laid out 
 with lakes, cascades, walks and drives. 
 
 One evening we attended a concert in the gar- 
 dens of the Champs Ely sees, upon which occa- 
 sion we had the pleasure of hearing the cele- 
 brated band of the " French Guides " play a se- 
 lection of the most popular airs. The members 
 of this band are all picked men and thoroughly 
 skilled in their profession, and the spectacle to 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 173 
 
 be witnessed in this favorite and highly respecta- 
 ble place of entertainment, of an evening, is mag- 
 nificent. Not far off from there is on exliibition, 
 and which I saw, the immense and very fine paint- 
 ing of tlie battle of Solferino. It occupies the 
 whole of a large circular building, with a mound 
 in the centre, whereon the visitors stand to view the 
 great picture, and over which are scattered brok- 
 en muskets, swords, bayonets, knapsacks, shakos, 
 dismantled cannon, &c., thus almost depicting to 
 the human eye the actual field of battle. On 
 the canvass are faithful likenesses of Napoleon 
 III and his generals, as also those of the Austri- 
 ans, and a truthful representation of the scenery, 
 in which the battle took place. This immense 
 painting is very interesting, and well worth seeing. 
 Now a few words about Paris generally. Not- 
 withstanding the great seige of improvement it 
 has undergone and is undergoing daily, Paris 
 does not class with many other cities in Europe 
 and America. Exteriorly the buildings -have an 
 elegant and majestic appearance, but there is a 
 lack of those sanitary measures, regulations and 
 improvements, which now so generally adorn 
 the interior of buildings in other countries ; and 
 as to water, it is truly abominable. So with all 
 its numerous palaces, gilded iron work, spark- 
 ling in the sun, and fashionable places of resort, 
 with the gayety and splendor of daily life, it 
 lacks much of being a model city, and in the opin- 
 ion of intelligent Frenchmen, indeed our guide 
 
1 74 O'er the Atlantic 
 
 told me as much, that ere long, beautiful as it is 
 in many otiier respects, much of it will have to 
 undergo sooner or later the terrible scenes of 
 i848.'^' Apropos of this: "The Frencli 
 people," said he, "will never be satisfied until 
 monarchial rule is absolutely abolished 
 and a republic formed. Napoleon is only 
 Emperor of France — he never was and never 
 wiH be Emperor of the French ! and wlien he is 
 crowned Emperor of either I shall be prime min- 
 ister, which is not possible. lie is a military des- 
 ]yv)t, who wislies to palm off on the country an 
 heir to the French throne, whose paternity the 
 great mass of the civilian Frencli have their 
 serious doubts about ; but, if he lives long enough, 
 he will see his mistake, and if he don't live to see 
 it, the time Avill then have arrived for Frenchmen 
 to act." Sucli were nearly the words wherein he 
 expressed himself, confidentially, of course, /. ^., 
 that I should not speak of it while in France. 
 He upon another occasion, remarked to me that 
 the Emperor dreaded all this, and that in conse- 
 quence lie seldom retired to his bed, for anxiety 
 of mind interfered with sleep. Says the guide, 
 "That man don't sleep twelve hours in one 
 week." 
 
 I will now ask my readers to accompany us to 
 Versailles, an account of which I will give them 
 in my next. 
 
 * Tliere is a very turbulent spirit manifested against the 
 Emperor among the people generall)^ which sooner or later 
 will, I am led to think, prove fatal to Napoleonic rule. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 175 
 
 LETTER XVII. 
 
 FRANCE, CONTINUED. 
 
 Palace of Versailles. — This very magnificent 
 and extensive Palace, now converted into an His- 
 torical Museum, was commenced by Louis XIII, 
 and enlarged and beautified by Louis XIV, who 
 made it his principal and favorite residence ; 
 surrounded with the pomp of Court, beautiful 
 women and brilliant nobles, it was here he gave 
 fetes and entertainments on so magnificent a 
 scale as to astonish all the Courts of Europe. 
 Extravagant sums of money were expended by 
 this monarch on the Palace of Versailles. To 
 such an extent did he carry out his extravagance, 
 that he drained the coffers of France and placed 
 the country in a state of bankruptcy, the conse- 
 quence of which was a revolution. After this 
 monarch came Louis XV and Louis XV^I, both 
 of whom occupied the Palace and lived at an 
 equally extravagant rate, until the patience of the 
 people again became exhausted, when tliey rose 
 in their miglit. Says a certain writer : " On the 
 6th of October, 1789, tlie people of Paris, exas- 
 
176 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 })emted by the scenes whicli had taken place 
 during the banquet given to the Gjuirds in the 
 opera house of the Palace, marched on Versailles. 
 Marie Antoinette appeared on tlie balcony of the 
 first floor, accompanied by Madame and the 
 Dauphin, There was a shout immediately of 
 'no children!' The Queen, undaunted by the 
 danger which this shout so clearly foretold, 
 advanced alone and unattended. Lafayette pres- 
 ently appeared, and, placing himself next to her, 
 appeased the rage of the mob. The next shout 
 was for the King, who showed himself at once 
 and replied to the cry of the enraged mob, ' The 
 King must come to Paris ! ' that he would accede 
 to their Avishes, confiding all he most dearly 
 prized to the care of his most good and faithful 
 subjects." — The royal family left the Chateau at 
 one o'clock in the afternoon of that day, soon to 
 be deprived of life at the hands of an infuriated 
 and down-trodden people. Since that day this 
 extensive Palace has been uninhabited. 
 
 Immediately on entering wdthin the massive 
 gilded gates, whereon are emblazoned the royal 
 arms of France, the stranger is struck with aston- 
 ishment at what he sees ; groups of immense 
 size statuary occupy prominent positions in the 
 Palace yard, the appearance of which rivets him 
 to the spot — makes him spell-bound — and chal- 
 lenges his admiration for its grandeur. We soon 
 found ourselves within the Palace walls, buffetted 
 about by the immense throng of visitors who, 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 177 
 
 like ourselves, had come to see the sights of Ver- 
 sailles. It was with much difficulty we elbowed 
 our way from one apartment to another. On the 
 walls are hung the finest paintings in the world, 
 of various sizes, and by a host of the most emi- 
 nent artists. Those of historical events con- 
 nected with tlie first Empire, particularly inter- 
 ested me; and we traversed, I was informed, as 
 many rooms if placed in a direct line as would 
 cover two and a half miles of ground — in which 
 are exhibited seven, miles of pictures — and by the 
 time we had got througli, rest assured, we were 
 ver}^ tired — so much so that we were unable to 
 go tlu-ough the whole of the extensive flower 
 gardens and walks. 
 
 The gardens are divided into squares formed 
 by alleys ; immense sheets of water and elegant 
 fountains, statues, pieces of architecture, shrub- 
 bery and flowers of almost every description 
 adorn the grounds. Well may this delightful 
 place attract the thousands of visitors it does 
 daily, for it is what may be termed literally, a Far- 
 adise on earth. The Orangery contains the finest 
 collection of orange trees in the world, one of 
 which I was informed is4oo years old. It was plant- 
 ed by a Princess fo Navarre, who gave it to Anne, 
 of Britanny, and ultimately became the property 
 of Francis I. Three very large fountains throw 
 up immense sheets of water, in the midst of 
 which Tritons and Syrens frolic. These foun- 
 tains are named Diana, Dragon and Neptune. 
 
178 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 The lalter is one of the grandest conceptions of 
 liydraulic art, and the effect of the water is inde- 
 scribable. The mists of foam and cohimns of 
 vapor illumined by the rays of the sun resemble 
 ever changing and fleeting rainbows. There are 
 numerous other fountains placed in other parts 
 of the ground, all of which are beautiful 
 works of art. 
 
 The Trjanuons, which are small buildings or 
 palaces, erected on a small scale by Louis XIV 
 and Louis XV within the s^rounds, and derive 
 their name from the village which once occupied 
 the site of tlie Palace, are also very magnificent 
 residences. It Avas to these palaces the King 
 (Louis XIV) often retired when tired and weary 
 of the pomp and splendor of Court, of which he 
 bv"came satiated, living and conducting himself 
 among Ins family upon the closest intimacy, and 
 abrogating almost entirely his lofty position in 
 this world. It was there lie enjoyed solitude and 
 quiet, and led, I may say, a purely domesticated 
 life. The Triannons were, nevertheless, luxuri- 
 ously furnished and profusely decorated in the 
 highest style of art. Louis XV also spent much 
 of his time there in the society of liis numerous 
 mistresses. The building called the Petit Trian- 
 non was built by him, behind the Grand Trian- 
 •non, in order to give a residence to Madame 
 DuBarry, one of his newly acquired favorites. 
 
 In the historic halls of those buildings are 
 carriages used during the reigns of Louis XVI, 
 
&er the Atlantic. 179 
 
 Napoleon I and Charles X. That of the time of 
 Napoleon is massive and magnificent. There 
 are also sleighs and chaises of great value, and a 
 little carriage that once belonged to the Duke of 
 Bordeaux. There are to be seen other relics in 
 the shape of valuable harness and saddlery, and 
 uniforms worn at the various courts are also on 
 exhibition. Among the carriages is the corona- 
 tion carriage of the first Emperor, and that of 
 Charles X, which cost, with the harness, about 
 four hundred thousand francs or $80,000, all of 
 which have been visited by Emperors, Kings and 
 Princes of foreign powers, and gazed at by high, 
 low, rich and poor, with wonder and admiration. 
 
 From Versailles we went to St. Cloud, the 
 favorite residence of the present Emperor, which 
 is called the " Summer Palace." This truly ele- 
 gant and picturesque residence is surrounded by 
 a magnificent park of many broad acres, beauti- 
 fully and tastefully laid out, with fountains, 
 statuary in Italian marble, and shrubbery and 
 flowers of the rarest and choicest kind. 
 
 We also passed through Sevres, noted for the 
 manufacture of the celebrated porcelain so well 
 known among the admirers of fine arts ; and, 
 while in the neighborhood, we had the pleasure 
 of witnessing the ascent of a verv large balloon, 
 the car of which contained two persons. There 
 being no wind, it ascended almost perpendicu- 
 larly, making but little headway through space. 
 
 Having hired a carriage for the day. we pro- 
 
i8o O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 ceeded at a brisk pace, and were soon once more 
 within the walls of gay Paris, and comfortably 
 seated in our hotel, which was very acceptable 
 after spending a whole day visiting sights far off, 
 a great portion of w^hich time we were exposed 
 to the extreme heat of the sun. Yes, such a day 
 as we occasionally experience in America in the 
 month of July ; " that's so." 
 
 It was our intention to proceed to Strasbourg, 
 which is situated on the Rhine, to see the cele- 
 brated clock in the old Cathedral — a wonderful 
 piece of mechanism, and of great age — but time 
 would not permit ; so we had to rest satisfied 
 with not proceeding any further south. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. i8i 
 
 LETTER XVIII. 
 
 FRANCE, CONTINUED. 
 
 We will now bid gay and fashionable Paris 
 a final adieu, and proceed through Normandy on 
 our return to England, and as we pass along the 
 banks of the Seine, we have a fine view of the 
 surrounding country. How different it does ap- 
 pear to the United Kingdom. The one (Nor- 
 mandy) with its varied colored little patches of 
 land resembling an American bed-quilt, with 
 here and there a dingy, squalid little town or 
 village, showing no marks of improvement since 
 the days of the celebrated Dukes, who many 
 centuries ago wielded so much power and influ- 
 ence on both sides of the channel ; and the other, 
 w4th its broad acres nicely fenced around with 
 the well trimmed black thorn and other hedges, 
 and dotted over with hundreds of little towns and 
 villages of various colored brick, improving and 
 keeping pace with the times, as art and science 
 progress. Well may it be said that " Paris is 
 France," for there is but little improvement else- 
 
1 83 O'er the Atlantle. 
 
 where. And yet, Johnny Crapean, seemingly con- 
 tented with \\\syar{f of bread a,nd bottle of Vin Or- 
 dinaire^"-' cannot but be aware of the vast strides 
 made by other nations, aside from beautifying and 
 adorning their capitals ! — But ere long the eye of 
 the traveler ceases to dwell upon those monotonous 
 little patches of land, for in the distance can be 
 seen high chimnies, and as he draws nearer, the 
 spires of churches, large buildings and shipping, 
 appear in view, indicating that he is nearing a city 
 of more tlian ordinary size and importance. — 
 Along we went at a rapid pace, with sundry 
 screeches from the iron horse as it passed through 
 and by certain stations, which its aristocratic na- 
 ture simply recognized with a screech and a grunt 
 it ran furiously by, and ere long we were in the 
 ancient city of 
 
 Rouen. — This is the capital of Normandy, and 
 and is even termed the " Manchester of France," 
 for it abounds with cotton factories,which produce 
 the finest manufactured fabrics of the kind in the 
 world, and which bring much higher prices than 
 those manufactured in the Manchester of Eng- 
 land, and other places in Great Britain. 
 
 Immediately after our arrival at the hotel kept 
 by an obliging Englishman, Avho liad linked his 
 
 * Both remarkably cheap and of good qualit}'. Wine is 
 generally used among the people as a substitute for tea and 
 coffee. (Red wine or claret.) The loaves aae made] nar- 
 row and long. 
 
O'er the Atlantic^ 183 
 
 fate with an equally obliging French woman, we 
 proceeded to see the sights of ancient Rouen. 
 Taking a guide with us, who spoke very good 
 English, we visited first the very fine old cathe- 
 dral, with its curious iron spire, a portion of 
 which has yet to be elevated. In this truly mag- 
 nificent edifice rest the remains of the famous 
 Rollo, first duke of Normandy, Richard Coeur 
 de Lion, and his brother Henry, and many others 
 of distinguished and ancient celebrity. It is a 
 marvellous building, and has very many fine 
 sculptured monuments, which adorn the interior, 
 and the front is adorned with two towers, one of 
 which is named the Butter Tower, owing to its 
 having been built with the proceeds of the sale 
 of permissions to eat butter during Lent. 
 
 Within those walls is a relic which England 
 for some time endeavored to obtain, but could 
 not, although the emperor sanctioned its removal, 
 the people opposed it in all their might. This 
 relic is that of the limestone figure of Richard 
 Coeur de Lion, discovered in the cathedral choir 
 in 1838, and, about the same time, we were in- 
 formed, his heart was also found, and is now 
 jealously guarded in the Museum of Antiquities. 
 This venerable building dates back to A. D. 260. 
 
 The church of St. Ouen is also a magnificent 
 building, of great antiquity, and is said to be 
 one of the finest buildings in the world,' it is of 
 gothic architecture, and is lighted by 128 win- 
 dows, and contains several chapels, beautifully 
 
184 O'er the Atlmitic. 
 
 and tastefully fitted up. There are many other 
 churches of varied interest, and much frequented 
 by the traveler and tourist. But the greatest 
 point of interest, /. c, the most interesting, is the 
 Place de la Liicelle in the square of whicli 
 stands the monument of the unfortunate Joan of 
 Arc, or Maid of Orleans, who was burned on 
 this spot at the stake in 1431, and the old chapel, 
 or at least a portion of it, stands near by, wherein 
 she, in her last moments, called upon God to 
 give her strength to go through, with fortitude 
 and courage, the terrible ordeal without shudder- 
 ing. Near by is also the Hotel du Bourgther- 
 oulde, so well known to antiquarians. It was 
 built in the fifteenth century. A stone tablet 
 gives a brief history of the place, and enume- 
 rates the names of the distinguished persons, 
 who have sojourned within its walls from time 
 to time, the first of whom was Francis I, A. D. 
 1540, and the last Madame, afterwards Duchesse, 
 de Montpensier, 1640, just 100 years after Francis 
 I first occupied it. And on the outer walls is 
 rudely carved the meeting of Francis I and 
 Henry VHI, of England, on the field of the cloth 
 of gold. Those ancient buildings are located in 
 the oldest part of the city, where the streets are 
 so narrow that the overhanging tops and roofs 
 ot the old houses very near form an arching 
 above your head. 
 
 The Palace de Justice is an exceedingly inter- 
 esting place. Our guide introduced us within 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 185 
 
 its walls, walking upon tip toes, for tlic criminal 
 court was in session, and one of the leading 
 counsel for the prisoner, was addressing the jury 
 in behalf of the unfortunate individual in the 
 person of a young woman, who, it was alleged, 
 had murdered her illegitimate child ; hence, \n^ 
 had to pass through with a noiseless step. 
 ' We observed, as we w^ent along, the far-famed 
 ancient ceiling, carved in oak, appearing as fresh 
 las ever, and surpassing anything of the kind I 
 had ever seen, so elaborately carved is it. Pass- 
 jing out of this room we entered other apart- 
 1 ments, bearing unmistakable marks of old age, 
 ■one of w^hich is used by the Counsellors at Law, 
 the public, and those interested in court matters, 
 ! as a promenading and discussing room, and for 
 , arranging and settling matters out of Court. 
 After visiting several other places of note, and 
 viewing with wondering admiration the various 
 old gates and classic buildings with which the 
 old city abounds, we took a carriage, and with 
 our guide drove to visit the new and handsome 
 church of Notre Dame Le Boscre, on St. Catha- 
 rine's Hill. From Rouen to this place, and back 
 over a different road to that we w^ent by is a most 
 beautiful drive, and the view from the hill of the 
 country round, including the river Seine and the 
 city, is the most magnificent, and should by all 
 means be seen by strangers visiting Rouen. 
 
 The church is a splendid structure of modern 
 and gothic architecture combined, and is deco- 
 
1 86 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 ra^ed in ca style wherein the cost must have been 
 a secondary consideration; the whole of it being 
 finished in elaborate gilt carved work. Indeed, 
 it has more the appearance of an opera house 
 than a place of worship, so profuse are the deco- 
 rations. We will now^ have to leave the old cap- 
 ital of Normandy in all its grandeur and mag- 
 nificence, and take the cars for — 
 
 Dieppe — another of the ancient towns of old 
 Normandy, a place of no mean pretensions, for 
 it has a population of probably twenty thousand 
 inhabitants, and a castle and citadel commanding 
 the entrance of the harbor. Very fine bathing is 
 to be had in the neighborhood ; and the town, 
 during the summer months, is frequented by vis- 
 itors from all parts of Europe and America, to 
 accommodate whom some very fine hotels are 
 erected on the heights overlooking its beautiful 
 beach and placid w^ater. The peculiar manufac- 
 tures of the place are in ivory, such as little 
 images chiefly connected with the Catholic faith? 
 specimens of which are to be seen in the windows 
 of the shops for sale. 
 
 On our arrival here we were put to considera- 
 ble trouble, owing to the steamer in w^aiting to 
 convey us across the channel being overcrowd- 
 ed with passengers that I deemed it advisable to 
 remain over until the next steamer sailed on the 
 following day, but scarcely had we partaken of 
 supper and made preparation to retire for the 
 night, I was informed that the agents of 
 
I 
 
 O'er the Atlantic. 187 
 
 i the line had ordered an extra steamer tu proceed 
 in a few liours after the sailing of the other. 
 So having secured our baggage once more and 
 paid our bill, we took leave of Monsle Host^ of the 
 hotel, and were soon on board the steamer, 
 which I found equally as crowded as its prede- 
 cessor, but rather than return to the hotel I 
 quickly determined to proceed and run all risk 
 in common with our fellow passengers. 
 
 Early morning saw us steam out of the harbor? 
 bowing ungracefully to a " short and troubled sea," 
 caused by what is termed among sea-faring men 
 a " spanking breeze," but although not more tlian 
 enough, it came from the wrong direction., for it 
 Avas " dead-on-end."' 
 
 This was one of the most disagreeable sea 
 voyages I ever experienced — the vessel small, 
 badly constructed, and over-crowded with pas- 
 sengers, chiefly excursionists returning from 
 Paris, all of whom were cjuickly in the arms of 
 Neptune, and paying sickly tributes to his majesty 
 of the briny deep, who now and again would 
 throw considerable of his briny element all over 
 the deck, causing the lubbers, as he would term 
 them, to look more dead than alive, which, 
 coupled with its being quite cold, made many a 
 poor votary to pleasure to curse his fate and wish 
 himself once more in hold Hingland I Among 
 the w^eak stomachs which so generally prevailed 
 above and below decks was a good sprinkling of 
 women and children, whose sufferings were 
 
1 88 (9V/' the Atlantic. 
 
 intense ; indeed, it is almost impossible for me 
 to describe the amount of suffering, for in the 
 little cabin overcome by heat and sickness, laid 
 the poor women and children two deep, and their 
 stalwart companions on deck, literally soaked 
 with salt water, too sick and helpless to render 
 them any assistance. Such is but a feeble de- 
 scription of the suffering on board the little 
 cockle snell of a boat, which, in my opinion, was 
 constructed more for the convenience of the 
 proprietors than their passengers. Oh, yes ! find 
 me an English railway or steamboat company 
 who cater for the comfort of the public, and I 
 will find the north pole. I know no other, 
 remedy to bring them to a realization of the 
 truth than by the government confiscating and 
 consigning to the flames two-thirds of their vile 
 railway cars and steamboats. — At last, after a 
 delay of an hour and a half waiting for tide off 
 the harbor of New Haven, we were safely landed 
 on the quay, and a more miserable and forlorn set 
 of creatures seldom or ever assembled together.* 
 As soon as our baggage was duly examined by the 
 custom house officers, we took our seats in the 
 cars, and, after two hours' ride, arrived, tired and 
 weary, at the London bridge station ; and here 
 ends our trip to France. 
 
 *The writer suffered more in going to and from Dieppe 
 than he did the whole of the long sea voyage, indeed, it 
 was the only time he experienced any sensation of sea- 
 sickness. 
 
O'er the Atlantie. 189 
 
 LETTER XIX. 
 
 ENGLAND, CONTINUED. 
 
 London Again. — After resting a day in our 
 hotel, we once more took to the street, and were 
 soon whirling along at a fast rate, cosily seated 
 in a hansom, to see some more of the sights of 
 London. But a few words about the ''hansom" 
 ere I commence to give an account of the place 
 we visited, which is nothing more than a one- 
 horse vehicle upon two wheels, for the accommo- 
 dation of two persons, driven by a man who sits 
 behind, perched up as thougli he were there to 
 counter balance the weight of the horse, for the 
 shafts raise to the level with the back of the 
 animal, and have a very awkward appearance. 
 Yet these vehicles are easy of ingress and egress, 
 and combine comfort with speed, for they are 
 licensed to travel faster than any other of the 
 cabs in the metropolis. 
 
 Well, after turning a great many corners we 
 were soon driving along Cheapside, then to the 
 left, and away we went through St. Paul's 
 Churchyard, the great Cathedral occupying 
 
190 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 almost the whole of the square, causing the 
 shops (stores) to look dingy and gloomy without 
 and within. Then onward, down Ludgate Hill, 
 through Temple Bar, which was having its dingy 
 old face washed by the City Fathers, along the 
 Strand, past Somerset House, the Charing Cross 
 Hotel, and we were in Trafalgar Square. Away 
 w^e went down Parliament street, past the Admir- 
 alty and Horse Guards, and in a few minutes 
 more we were in sight of the great 
 
 Houses of Parliament. — Those buildings are 
 said to be unsurpassed by any other of the kind 
 in the known world*. The exterior is adorned 
 with a multitude of towers of various sizes, vary- 
 ing from the great clock tower down, and the 
 elaborate workmanship of the whole baffles any 
 description I can give. The Houses of Lords 
 and Commons are elegant rooms in every re- 
 spect, and the whole of the Chambers are fur- 
 nished in massive grand style.^ — Near by is 
 Westminister Abbey, a magnificent old building, 
 which has stood the test of centuries, and the 
 interior of which is embellished with the finest 
 sculptured tombs of kings, queens, princes and 
 others that art could perfect. — Passing from here 
 we found ourselves again in front of the Horse 
 
 *It is a pity that so magnificent a structure should ever 
 have been erected on the low bank of a sluggish, mudd}* 
 river, (the Thames.) They are worthy a far more elevated 
 position, which would add much to their grandeur and 
 beauty. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 191 
 
 Guards, admiring the sentry, who sat on his coal 
 black steed with a coat like velvet, draped in 
 hemlet and cuirass, as immovable as a statue, 
 resembling more a figure in wax than a live 
 being. The soldiers of the Horse Guards are 
 all picked men, measuring none of them 
 less than six feet out of their boots, and are 
 generally in attendance upon the Queen's person 
 when apppearing in public. — From here we 
 wended our way to Trafalgar Square, and viewed 
 the sight of Nelson's pillar or monument, with 
 immense crouching lions on each angle of its 
 wide base. I consider this place the finest square 
 I have ever seen, not even excepting the Place 
 de la Concorde, in Paris. We afterwards visited 
 Somerset House, the National Gallery, Zoological 
 Gardens, and other places in and around the 
 great city, all of which were " big sights," and I 
 regret that time won't permit me giving them 
 but a passing remark. As to places of amuse- 
 ment, or rather entertainment, I found Madame 
 Tussaud's exhibition of wax figures the most 
 entertaining, and very interesting also. It is all 
 that it is represented to be. The life like figures, 
 gorgeously attired, especially those of the 
 crowned heads of Europe and foreign princes, 
 are most magnificent. And the Napoleon rooms 
 contain relics associated with the first empire 
 that are highly interesting, which even include 
 three of his carriages, one of which is that which 
 he used and escaped from during that ever 
 
192 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 memorable battle which proved so disastrous to 
 him, and sent him to die in exile — that of Water- 
 loo. To me this was very interesting indeed. I 
 opened the door, got in, and sat on the same 
 cushion which the great little man had so often 
 occupied when going forth to battle, causing 
 monarchs to tremble at what would be the result. 
 It is very strongly built, lined with dark blue 
 cloth, fitted within with drawers, a writing desk, 
 lamp, map, racks, &c., and under the coachman's 
 seat is an iron bedstead, and various other things 
 connected with camp life, all of which were 
 found, as well as some very valuable jewelry, 
 diamonds and clothing by the Prussians on the 
 spot from where he effected his miraculous 
 escape. 
 
 Madame Tussaud has now been dead several 
 years, but the business is still carried on by the 
 sons in the old firm name, and near to the 
 entrance in the main saloon stands a very faith- 
 ful representation of the old lady in wax, exe- 
 cuted by herself when living, and so near to life 
 is tlie figure, snuft' box in hand, and slightly 
 moving her head occasionally, as does also that of 
 old Cobbett, sitting near by, that but few take 
 them for what they are, a mere representation of 
 wliat was once mortal. On either side of the 
 entrance doors stands neatly attired life-like 
 figures of Washington and Ben Franklin, the 
 former dressed in plain black velvet with but 
 few ornaments, and the latter in the very plain 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 193 
 
 homespun brown cloth of tiie period, in which 
 
 unassuming garb he figured so conspicuously 
 
 amid the splendor and pomp of European Courts; 
 
 and at the upper end of this saloon are figures 
 
 of the late President Lincoln, President Johnson, 
 
 and Generals Grant and McClellan, neither of 
 
 I which did I consider good, for they were out of 
 
 proportion, and lacked much to make them 
 
 I what they should or ought to be. In my opinion 
 
 I there were none in the building so badly exe- 
 
 j cuted. Let us hope that the defects will ere long 
 
 I be remedied, so that American visitors can look 
 
 at them with pleasure and with a feeling of pride 
 
 land admiration. 
 
 I The Wellington Room, like the Napoleon 
 
 ,' room, but recently added to the collection, con- 
 
 I tains the life-like figure of the Iron Duke, lying 
 
 in state under the canopy, draped in a Field 
 
 { Marshal's uniform, and around the room are 
 
 hung in glass cases, exact copies of the various 
 
 ) badges, &c., bestowed upon him at home and 
 
 abroad, and also many relics once the property 
 
 of the Duke when sojourning upon earth. There 
 
 are also very many other articles connected with 
 
 the history of the great man, in and around the 
 
 room, all of which must be very interesting to 
 
 the admirers of the man who figured so much 
 
 during the hostile meetings between the troops 
 
 ,of Britain and those of France, and whicii 
 
 proved so fatal to the first Emperor, his family 
 
 J and followers. 
 
 ' H 
 
194 0\'r the Atlantic. 
 
 In conclusion, before I take my leave of this 
 truly beautiful and magnificent place of enter- 
 tainment, I wish to remark that it appears far 
 more beautiful at night, wlien the effect is most 
 brilliant, the gayly dressed figures with orders 
 and jewelry, dazzling the eye, and appearing 
 grand in the extreme. 
 
 Before leaving London we visited the Taber- 
 nacle., at the Elephant and Castle, and had the 
 pleasure of hearing the world-renowned Spur- 
 geon address a congregation of not less than 
 5,000 persons — indeed, I was informed that there 
 were 7,000 present. 
 
 Spurgeon is decidedlv a great man — a plain 
 matter-of-fact man is he, whose soul-stirring 
 eloquence is astonishing, and who preaches so 
 that his congregation can understand the mean- 
 ing of the text thoroughly ; hence, why he has 
 so many admirers. His style of oratory is such 
 that no person can for one moment cease to listen 
 to his plain unassuming address, for he rivets 
 the attention of the most sluggish. Upon this 
 occasion, after reading portions of tlie Scriptures, 
 which he expounded as he read them, he drew 
 his text from Job 14, 14th verse : "All the days 
 of my appointed time will I wait, till my change 
 come." This subject lie handled in a masterly 
 style for one hour, and in a clear, audible voice, 
 apparently without any stress, and certainly 
 Avithout being at a loss for a word during the 
 whole time, but with much eloquence expounded 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 195 
 
 the position of Job driven to desperation bv 
 bodily pains and the exasperating remarks of 
 his wife, a sore trial upon his patience, causing 
 him to cr}^ " Oh, that Thou wouldst hide me in 
 the grave." Mr. Spurgeon then called the 
 attention of his hearers to the aspect of life 
 which Job gives us, his estimates of our work, 
 and to his view of the future, ending his dis- 
 course on the blessedness of sudden death. 
 Said he, " There is much to be envied in sudden 
 death. I never could understand why it should 
 be put in the Litany ' From sudden death, good 
 Lord deliver us !' So long as we can die pre- 
 pared, let the change come suddenly," &c., &c. 
 
 In this immense house of worship there is no 
 organ, nor any other musical instrument. The 
 singing is purely congregational — and oh ! such 
 singing ! Imagine 5,000 voices mingling in one 
 song to the worship of Almighty God! The 
 effect is grand — nay, sublime. And while he 
 gave out the hymn, verse after verse, the falling 
 of a three cent coin to the floor might be heard. 
 
 Apart from his ability as a preacher, Mr. 
 Spurgeon, I was informed, is doing an immense 
 amount of good in various ways. " And there is 
 not," said my informant, as we rode in a stage 
 back to London bridge, " a man in all London 
 who works harder than Spurgeon. He has 
 nobly earned the proud position he now holds, 
 
196 0*er the Atlantic. 
 
 and is deserving of all the aid and support we 
 can give him." A great man truly is Spurgeon. 
 
 I must now leave my readers for the present, 
 and ask them to meet me in my next in the 
 city of Manchester. Adieu. 
 
O'er the Atlantic, 197 
 
 LETTER XX. 
 
 ENGLAND, CONTINUED. 
 
 Having devoted all the time we could spare to 
 seeing London and its neighborhood, I had to 
 forego the pleasure of visiting many })laces that 
 would have been interesting to me and probably 
 to my readers. So on the morning of the 27th 
 of August we left the great metropolis, taking 
 our departure from Euston Square Station, by 
 the London & Northwestern Railway, the best 
 laid road in all England, over which we traveled at 
 the rate of upwards of sixty miles an hour. The 
 first place we stopped at was Rugby, 84 miles 
 from London, (celebrated now as Dickens' 
 " Mugby Junction,") which distance was run in 
 one hour and twenty minutes ! There we stopped 
 only three minutes, affording me scarcely 
 sufficient time to reach the refreshment rooms to 
 snatch a sandwich and pay for it, for almost 
 immediately was heard the guard's voice, " Take 
 your seats, if you please," followed by the bang- 
 ing and locking of carriage doors, and the 
 
198 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 appearance of the ticket inspector, with " Show 
 your tickets, please," and a polite " thank you," 
 then one, two, three, four, counting the number 
 of passengers in each compartment, with the 
 remark, " All right," time was called, and the 
 shrill starting whistle of the guard was heard as 
 t)ie signal for the immense train to proceed on 
 its journey. Away we went past towns and vil- 
 lages, through various stations, at a fearful rate, 
 away past Stafford, celebrated for its potteries, 
 and ere long we were in the elegant station at 
 Crewe, where we had to change carriages, the 
 through " Lightning Express" going on direct to 
 Liverpool. — And now, before taking our seats in 
 the other train, 1 will avail myself of tlie oppor- 
 tunity to explain how the Lightning Express 
 and Mail Trains on the L. & N. W. Road take in 
 water for the locomotive, and how the mail bags 
 are delivered and received, without stopping or 
 even slacking speed. As regards supplying 
 water: At various places on the road are laid in 
 the centre of the track some two or three miles 
 of iron gutters, through which a continual stream 
 of water tlows. 'J1i(.)se gutters are about four- 
 teen inches wide and eight inches deep, and as 
 the tander attached to the engine passes over 
 them, a suction pipe connects with the water, 
 which, caused by the speed, fills the tank to over- 
 flowing ere the engine passes over the length of 
 the gutter. Thus there is no delay in stopping 
 to take in water. And then as to the mail bags : 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 199 
 
 On the outside of the mail carria-ge is a netting 
 attached to an iron frame, which comes in con- 
 tact with the mail bags hung on a post, fixed on 
 the station platform, which, by the force of speed, 
 causes a spring to give way, and Her Majesty's 
 mail is safely within the netting, and soon in the 
 hands of the guard in charge of the mail car- 
 riage. The mails are delivered in a similar man- 
 ner, although this to me was quite a new feature 
 in railroad traveling. I was not astonished when 
 the simplicity of both were explained to me, and 
 was only surprised that both inventions were not 
 in general use. Leaving Crewe, one of the 
 great junctions of England, we proceeded on 
 our way, but not at so fast a speed as that we 
 traveled at from London, for we were then riding 
 in what the Englishman terms a Parliamentary 
 train^ which enabled us to have a more distinct 
 view of the country and the various station 
 houses on the road, which are substantially built 
 of hewn stone and fine brick, ''^ surrounded with 
 tastefully laid out flower gardens, and the beauti- 
 ful trimmed tliorn hedges which serve as 
 fences for hundreds of miles along the lines, 
 together with the neatly sodded slopes in 
 the deep cuts, on which thousands of tons 
 of hay are mowed every season, gives the 
 whole country a most beautiful and charming 
 
 *Much of the brick used for building in England are well 
 hardened, and are finished on one side with a gloss, render- 
 ing it impervious to wet. 
 
2()o O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 appearance. We were soon in Stockport, and 
 traversing the line of railway elevated above 
 houses and factories eight and nine stories high. \ 
 On we went, turning a curve to the left at a 
 steady speed, when scores of very high chimneys 
 appeared in the distance, from which long lines 
 of black smoke streamed forth, and mingled 
 with the clouds in the heavens, and in a little 
 while we were made aware of being in the great 
 city of dry goods. 
 
 Manchester. — This great cotton metropolis 
 of the world, enveloped in smoke, is situated 
 on the banks of the river Irwell, in the county 
 of Lancaster. We stayed but a few days, 
 during which time the " Liverpool & Manchester 
 Agricultural vSociety" held their annual fair 
 in the neighborhood, which, of course, we 
 visited, and I was very much pleased with the 
 exhibition. This fair is frequented by, and open 
 for competition to the counties of York and 
 Chester. Consequently the collection was very 
 fine, comprising horses, cattle, sheep, hogs, dogs, 
 poultry, farm produce, machinery, (principally 
 connected with farming), wagons, carts, carriages, 
 and a host of articles too numerous to mention, 
 among which were some of American manufac- 
 ture, such as washing machines, wringers, &c. 
 The exhibition of horses was very fine, for there 
 was the graceful thorough-bred Hunter, the 
 Galloway, the Pony, and lastly the noble and 
 majestic Draught Horse, so well known in 
 
O'er the Atlafitic. 201 
 
 England, whose tread makes the earth tremble as 
 he moves leisurely along. 
 
 Manchester, until vithin a few years ago, 
 was simply a town, but of considerable import- 
 ance, when Her Majesty, the Oueen, visited it, and 
 Knighted the Mayor, now Sir John Potter. When 
 Salford (the see of the Bishop) was incorporated 
 into Manchester, and the great cotton towm 
 became a city, since which time the march of 
 improvement has been very great ; and now 
 several very fine public buildings adorn its 
 streets and squares, among w^liich I may name 
 the Court House (Town Hall), erected in 1866, a 
 splendid building, unequalled for its conven- 
 iences, A^entilation, and style of architecture by 
 any other building of the kind in England. The 
 Atheneum and Royal Institution, on INIosley 
 street, are also very splendid buildings. In the 
 latter is an exhibition of paintings well worth 
 seeing. And the Royal Exchange, on ?*Iarket 
 street, and St. Ann's Square, now in the course 
 of erection, will be, it is said, far superior to any 
 other building in the place, and not inferior to 
 any in all England. It is constructed so as to 
 form a square around it. The first floor is to be 
 occupied as shops (stores), and the upper floor 
 approached from the north and south side by 
 very Avide flights of hew^n stone steps, is intended 
 for a Court Room, Offices, Exchange Room, &:c. 
 The principal shops will front on Market street, 
 with good roomy basements to underlet for 
 
203 (9V/' the Atlantic, 
 
 various business purposes, and Free Trade Hall, 
 where such men as Cobden, Gibson, Bright, 
 Osborne, and others of the great champions of 
 the corn law and free trade have frequently held 
 forth, advocating in more than eloquent language 
 the rights of the working man, is a building of 
 no mean pretensions. 
 
 Manchester is also not without its monuments. 
 Very fine statues of the Duke of Wellington and 
 Sir Robert Peel occupy prominent positions in 
 front of the Infirmary, and one of Dr. Dalton, 
 and of James Watt, the celebrated engineer, 
 occupying each a pedestal, forming the entrance 
 to the Institution, and there is a very fine statue 
 of the late Prince Consort, in Italian marble, 
 under a canopy on Albert Square. 
 
 The city is also blessed with some very fine 
 public parks, of which it has three, viz. : Peel's 
 Park, comprising forty acres, in which there is a 
 very extensive Museum of Antiquities and Fine 
 Arts, and an extensive Library, both of which 
 are always open to the public gratis, and within 
 the grounds are five statues, viz. : of the Queen, 
 Prince Albert, Sir R. Peel, Richard Cobden and 
 Mr. Brotherton, late M. P. for Salford. The 
 other Parks are called the Queen's Park, and 
 Phillip's Park, both of which are extensive, but 
 have nothing to recommend them to the eye of 
 the stranger, aside from their shady groves and 
 quiet retreats, which are so very much courted 
 
o'er the Atlantic. 203 
 
 on the Sabbath and holidays by the sons of toil 
 resident in and around the city. 
 
 Among the hotels, of which there are several 
 very fine ones, one deserves special mention. I 
 allude to the '' Trevaiyan," conducted on the 
 Temperance plan, and is decidedly one the finest, 
 as also one of the most convenient and elegant 
 furnished house in the United Kingdom. It is 
 admirably conducted, and is precisely what it is 
 represented to be, " a first-class house," combining 
 elegance, and comfort at moderate charges. The 
 " Waterloo" is the only house which caters to the 
 taste of Americans generally, and is provided 
 with an elegant room for their reception, adorned 
 wdth American engravings of various subjects, 
 but is rather salty in its charges. 
 
 Before leaving we were afforded an oj^portu- 
 nity of visiting the new Cotton Factory of tlie 
 Messrs. Tootal, Broadhurst, Lee & Co., which is 
 one of the finest, most modern and complete in 
 the place. On entering the first floor we could 
 not hear ourselves speak with the noise of tlie 
 machinery at work, and the humming din of 
 scores of looms, busy at work under the manage- 
 ment principally of females, weaving various 
 patterns and qualities of cotton, worsted, and 
 silk fabrics combined. We were politely shown 
 through this extensive establishment, from bot- 
 tom to top, which gave us some idea of the vari- 
 ous stages through which the raw material had 
 
204 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 to go ere it was in a fit state to pass into the 
 weaver's room.'^ 
 
 It is astonishing to see the great number of 
 foreigners from ahiiost every clime, who traverse 
 the streets of busy Manchester ; among whom are , 
 the , Turk, Arab, Greek, and the Mahomedan from 
 the far off Indies, dressed in the peculiar costume 
 of thei r country. As also the Frenchman, Spaniard, 
 German and American, attired a la anglaise, all buy- 
 ers, or rather resident agents, for the purchase of 
 goods for the various houses they represent in 
 their far-distant homes. And now let us leave 
 busy and smoky Manchester, and in my next I 
 shall give an account of our trip to the far-famed 
 Windertnere lakes, andtlienceonby way of Carlisle 
 into honnie Scofiajid. 
 
 ' *The proprietors of the Manchester Cotton Mills are 
 very jealous of strangers visiting their factories, but Ave 
 gained admission without any trouble through the influence 
 of a friend, who said we were simply desirous of satisfying 
 our curiosity by seeing the looms at work. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 205 
 
 LETTER XXI. 
 
 ENGLAND, CONTINUED. 
 
 On the road once more, propelled by the iron 
 horse at the usual speed, we soon left Manchester 
 far behind, passing through Bolton and Preston, 
 with their numerous cotton factories, coal and 
 iron works. On through Lancaster, and in a few 
 hours the train arrived in Oxenholme Junction, 
 where I had the extreme pleasure of meeting an 
 old friend from Pittston, then on a visit to his 
 aged father residing at Sedburgh, after an absence 
 in America of 30 years (more or less). To meet 
 so many thousand miles from our home Avas very 
 pleasant, and right glad were we to see each 
 other, but the pleasure was somewhat marred by 
 him announcing the death of an old friend 
 of ours at Wilkesbarre, Pa. Although unwell, 
 he put himself to some trouble and expense in 
 coming several miles to meet us, for I had been in 
 correspondence with him prior to leaving London. 
 But unfortunately we had but little time to spend 
 in each other's company, for as soon as the bag- 
 gage could be transferred from one train to the 
 
2o6 O'er the Atlantie. 
 
 other, then in waiting, we had to bid each other a 
 hasty adieu,* take our seats again, and proceed on 
 our journey-by Kendall, and in a short time we 
 arrived at 
 
 Windermere. — On our arrival here, situated in 
 the immediate neighborhood of the far-famed 
 Windermere Lakes, we soon were cosily seated 
 in the coffee-room of a very comfortable hotel, 
 named after the place, where from the w^indows 
 could be obtained an excellent view of tlie lakes 
 in the distance. 
 
 After a stay of a couple of days at this very 
 fashionable place of resort, boating on the lake, 
 &c., a portion of which time the rain fell in tor- 
 rents, we concluded to leave and proceed on our 
 journey north, being perfectly satisfied that there 
 are lakes and scenery elsewhere as fine, if not 
 superior, in many respects, to that Windermere 
 can boast of, and to view which none of us need 
 leave the American shores. For what a great 
 contrast there is between the lakes and rivers of 
 Britain and those of America ! The former are 
 but ponds and ditches when compared to the 
 vast lakes and rivers of the latter ; and as to 
 scenery, truthfully, I have seen none, as yet, to 
 equal our own beautiful Valley of the Wyoming^ 
 
 *This was the only personal acquaintance from iiis home 
 that the writer had the pleasure of meeting during his tour, 
 although there were several in various parts of Europe at 
 the time, and he, notwithstanding feeling very unwell at the 
 time, traveled several miles under ttnfavorahh circumstances 
 to obtain an interview. May his shadow never groiv less. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 207 
 
 and that of the Hudson River^ Starucca Valley^ and 
 other places, daring autumn especially. Such 
 are not seen in any other country that I have 
 visited, but if the x\merican is an antiquarian or 
 an admirer of green fields^ well-trimmed hedges, 
 and pretty gardens, adorned with almost every 
 variety of flowers, tastefully laid out, and beauti- 
 ful roads, let him visit Britain, and his tastes will 
 be gratified to the fullest extent. 
 
 We continued our journey northward from 
 Windermere, re-passing Kendall, and taking the 
 train once more from Oxenholme Junction, we 
 started, making the first stoppage at Penrith, and 
 while there obtained from our carriage window 
 an excellent view of the old castle, now a perfect 
 ruin, standing in the immediate neighborhood of 
 the railway station. On Ave went through a well- 
 cultivated country, until we arrived in the mag- 
 nificent station of Carlysle, something like that 
 erected at Chester, and of. which I spoke in 
 my account of North Wales. 
 
 On our arrival here we were very much 
 pleased to meet a lady companion du voyage 
 from New York to Ireland, in the person of a 
 Mrs. Stevens, who was staying with a relation at 
 Penrith, but our conversation was of short dura- 
 tion, for the baggage being quickly transferred 
 to the train on the Waverly route (N. B. R. R.), 
 a stentorian voice proclaimed the customary, 
 " Take your seats, please," when suddenly the 
 refreshment rooms were emptied of hungry 
 
2o8 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 travelers, with their lunch in hand, quickly 
 followed by the banging of doors, and the " Show 
 your tickets, please," then the guard's usual shrill 
 whistle for the immense train of carriages to 
 move on to cross " the border." Puff — puff — puft' 
 — ending in one continual puffing — and ere we 
 had finished partaking of our luncheon, pur- 
 chased hurriedly at Carh'sle, we were fairly in 
 the " land o' cakes" 
 
 Scotland. — Rapidly traversing the banks of 
 the noble Esk, which, I informed myself, 
 abounded with very fine trout. On we went 
 through Castleton, with its "hermitage water," 
 St. Boswell, which put me in mind of New- 
 burgh Abbey, still on through Newstead, and 
 in a little while Ave were in Melrose, w^here 
 we saw the royal standard still floating over the 
 hotel which, but a few days prior to our arrival. 
 Her Majesty, the Queen, had honored with her 
 presence on her visit to Melrose Abbey, Avhen 
 en route to her highland home at Balmoral. 
 
 We saw the splendid old abbey wlierein rests 
 the once lion heart of "the Bruce." Grand old 
 ruin ! Honored thou art in having such a relic 
 resting within thy ivy-clad walls ! Let it continue 
 to shelter under thy wings, even when ages shall 
 have made thy crumbling walls a mass of rub- 
 bish, never to be forgotten until time ceases to be 
 no more. 
 
 Melrose Abbey is a similar ruin to that of 
 " Tintern Abbey," of which I gave an account 
 
O'er the Ailantic. 209 
 
 when in South Wales, but more profusely deco- 
 rated. It was founded in 1 156 by David I, and 
 restored in 1326 by the Bruce. Edward .II de- 
 stroyed the original building, and the present 
 building is that restored, which occupied 200 
 years in completion. It belonged to the Cister- 
 cian Monks. Sir Walter Scott, in his " Lay of 
 the Last Minstrel," alludes to the east window in 
 the following lines : 
 
 " The moon on the east ariel shone 
 
 Through slender shafts of shapely stone, 
 By foliaged tracery combined ; 
 
 Thou wouldst thought some fairy's hand 
 
 Twixt poplars straight the osier wand 
 In many a'freakish knot had twined, 
 
 Then framed a spell when the work was done, 
 
 And changed the willow wreaths to stone." 
 
 " On many parts of the ruins fruits, flowers and 
 foliage are carved with the most artistic skill, 
 and several of the pillars which support the roof 
 are yet as entire as when William of Deloraine 
 and the monk visited the wizard's grave." It 
 must have been unrivalled in its day, "' and now 
 the dust of the departed monks and the rude 
 forefathers of the hamlet, with that of the inhab- 
 itants of the village of Melrose of the present 
 day, mingle together in the graveyard of the old 
 ruin." 
 
 Leaving Melrose, we steamed along the banks 
 of the "lovely Tweed, soil hallowed by the 
 eloquent poetry of Burns, and rendered glori- 
 ous by the wonderful genius of Scott, a land 
 
2io O'er the Atlantic 
 
 where prose and fiction, fact and sentiment, are 
 so indissolubly linked together that it becomes 
 almost an impossibility to separate one from the 
 other." — On we went, leaving Abbottsford, the 
 once princely residence of Sir Walter Scott, to 
 our left, sorry we could not spare the time to 
 visit it, and as we went further along we obtained 
 excellent views of Borthwick and Creichton Cas- 
 tles, the former a fine old baronial tower of the 
 14th century. 'Twas there Mary, Queen of Scots^ 
 passed, I may say, with Bothwell, her bitter 
 honeymoon, till hunted down by her nobles^ 
 Avhen she fled their vengeance dressed in male 
 attire, but to no purpose, for she was afterwards 
 taken prisoner, and taken back to Edinboro. 
 where she was insulted in the streets, and after- 
 wards removed to and confined in Lochleven 
 Castle, wherefrom she effected her escape and 
 fled into England, and threw herself upon the 
 protection of Elizabeth, then Queen of England, 
 who protected her by causing the headsman to 
 deprive her of her head. Creichton Castle was 
 founded by Sir William Creichton, Chancellor 
 of Scotland, who was the guardian of James II. 
 The ill-fated Mary gave various grand entertain- 
 ments there, and magnificent as it was once, it is 
 now a desolate, forlorn looking old ruin. We 
 passed through Gallashiels, and occasionally 
 passed large factories wherein the celebrated 
 Scotch tweed is manufactured, and steaming 
 along at a fast rate, passed Stow, Fountain 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 211 
 
 Hall, Heriot, Falahill, Tyneheacl, Gorebridge, 
 Dalahousie, Eskbank, Dalkeith, and soon after- 
 wards came in sight of the Firth of Forth, arriv- 
 ing in Edinburgh at 6 p. M.,and were soon seated 
 in the luxurious coffee-room of the " Cockburn 
 Hotel," conducted'like the "Trevelyan" at Man- 
 chester, on the temperance plan, where our wants 
 were promptly supplied, and our comfort duly 
 cared for, by the very accommodating host and 
 hostess. 
 
 After supper we strolled up and down Princess 
 street, where is erected the elegant monument in 
 memory of Sir Walter Scott, the most beautiful 
 structure I have ever seen ; and viewed as we 
 walked leisurely along the numerous shop-win- 
 dows, wherein was exhibited in profusion the 
 very beautiful jewelry which Edinburgh is so 
 justly celebrated for its manufacture. 
 
 I must now bring this letter to a close, and in 
 my next will give my readers a continuation of 
 our visit to this very beautiful city, and capital of 
 Scotland. An revoir ! 
 
-12 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 LETTER XXII. 
 
 SCOTLAND, CONTINUED. 
 
 EDiNBURGH.-\Ve found it very pleasant t. 
 linger in and around this very beautiful city, th^ 
 most delightful of ^//the cities we visited, and bi 
 way of giving my readers an idea of what is tc 
 be seen there, I will commence with its Ancient 
 Castle. 
 
 Edinburgh Castle is situated on a high rock, 
 overlooking both the ancient and modern parts 
 ot the city, and was the scene of many a fierce and 
 deadly struggle between the English troops and 
 those of the Pretender, as also, of some of the 
 trials of the ill-fated Mary. We were shown her 
 little apartment, when a prisoner there, (6 x 4 
 It.) and looked down with a shudder, the steep 
 rocks beneath the window, from which she 
 lowered in a basket her babe, James VI, to be 
 conveyed by her adherents to Stirling Castle, 
 where it was baptised in her favorite faith.— Two 
 portraits only adorn the walls of this little prison 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 213 
 
 hamber, in which James VI first saw the light,* 
 iz., that of the Queen and her consort Darnley, 
 nd an old arm chair of the period, with the 
 rown and letters M. R. rudely carved on the 
 ack. The reception room adjoining the cham- 
 er is much larger. It was in this room, during 
 er captivity, she gave audience to those who had 
 ccasion to visit her in her solitude and down- 
 ard career. Leaving this part of the castle, we 
 roceeded to view the Regalia of Scotland's 
 lings and Queens, now kept and guarded within 
 strong iron railing or cage, placed in a bomb- 
 roof vault, erected within that part known as 
 le " Old Palace." The whole are placed on a 
 rimson covered stand or table, and consist of 
 le Crown of Bruce's time, with additions made 
 ) it by James V, the sword of state presented 
 y Pope Julius II, to James IV, and a sceptre 
 lade for James V. There are also rare and 
 )stly jewels bequeathed by the late Cardinal 
 ork, who was the last of the Stewart race, to 
 leorge IV, which consist of the St. George 
 jllar of the Order of the Garter, presented bv 
 fueen Elizabeth of England, to James VI, the 
 adge of the Thistle, ornamented with diamonds, 
 nd secretly containing a portrait of Anne of 
 Denmark, and lastly the coronation ring of 
 harles I. This costly finger ornament is set 
 
 * James VI was born there while his royal mother was a 
 isoner. 
 
214 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 Avitli beautiful rubies, and the ornament, St. 
 George and the Dragon, attached to the collar oi 
 the Order of the Garter, is on one side thickly 
 set with diamonds of the purest water. The 
 whole have a most brilliant appearance and are 
 in a good state of preservation, notwithstanding! 
 the many long years they were locked up fromj 
 mortal view. Apropos of this circumstance, a{ 
 few lines may not be uninteresting to some ofi 
 my readers, whereby they may be made better 
 acquainted with the past history of "Scotland's! 
 Regalia," than I Avas, prior to my visiting the 
 country ; but before doing so, I wish to allude to 
 the royal robes, which, it is said, " were of purple 
 velvet, lined with ermine, with a kirtle of the 
 same materials and trimming, combining grace 
 with elegance, which, with the crown, was worn 
 by the King upon solemn occasions, but the lat- j 
 ter on other occasions was placed before him on 
 a cushion, and when laws w^ere passed in the j 
 Scottish Parliament it Avas presented by the \ 
 Chancellor to the King, who ratified them by' 
 touching it with the sceptre, in token of royal 
 assent. This ceremony, after the accession of 
 James to tlie English crown, was performed by 
 a Lord Higli Commissioner, invested for that, 
 purpose with tlie delegated state of a viceroy." 
 " During the troubles of Queen Mary's time " 
 there was scandalous dilapidation made upon 
 the crown jewels and other treasure in Scotland 
 belonging to the sovereign. The Regalia, how- 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 215 
 
 ever, escaped tire general plunder. They appear 
 at this time to have been preserved in Sterling 
 Castle, where James VI was crowned by Adam, 
 Bishop of Orkney, July 29th, 1567, when,, as 
 appears from the records of the Privy Council, 
 the Bishop delivered into his hands the sword 
 and sceptre, and put the crown royal upon his 
 head, with all due reverence, ceremonies and 
 circumstances used and accustomed." 
 
 After the coronation of Charles II the events 
 which followed were fraught with so much 
 danger to the existence of royalty and its 
 emblems, that it became necessary to take prompt 
 measures for the preservation of the Regalia 
 from a foreign enemy ; but as I cannot give in 
 detail the circumstances attending the removal 
 of the Regalia from place to place, it must suffice 
 to say that from 165 1 until the union with 
 England the Regalia were removed frequently 
 from one place to another, and sometimes under 
 the most tedious and difficult circumstances. 
 
 On March 26th, 1707, they were again secluded 
 from public view by being deposited in the great 
 :hest, which was their usual receptacle, and 
 secured by three strong locks, in the crown room 
 ji the castle of Edinburgh. The chimneys and 
 ivindows were well secured by massive iron bars, 
 ind the entrance protected by two doors, one of 
 3ak and the other of iron bars, with locks of 
 yreat strength ; the keys of the chest and of the 
 'oom were afterwards deposited somewhere, but 
 
2i6 O'er the Atlantie. 
 
 never recovered.'^ Doubts seem to have been 
 entertained by the Scotch people shortly after 
 this of the actual whereabouts of the Reofalia, 
 and the Jacobite party availed themselves of the 
 circumstances to circulate a report that the 
 English government had secretly caused these 
 royal emblems to be transported to London, and 
 a crown being exhibited in the Tower of London 
 as that of Scotland's kings led to confirm the 
 report so industriously circulated. Thus matters 
 stood for upwards of a century, the people still 
 in doubt of the existence of Scotland's royal 
 emblems, when in 1817, the ''Prince Regent, 
 considering that all political reasons for with- 
 drawing from the people of Scotland the sight of 
 the ancient symbols of her independence had 
 long ceased to exist, was pleased to give direc- 
 tions for removing the mystery, which had so 
 long hung upon the existence of the Scottish 
 Regalia." 
 
 A warrant was accordingly issued and handed 
 to the officers of State in Scotland, directing 
 them to open the crown room and chest and 
 report the state in which the Regalia should be 
 found. 
 
 The crown room was accordingly entered, and 
 the lid of the great chest was forced open, when 
 to the great joy of all present, lying at the bot- 
 
 * Secluding the crown jewels from public view, was done 
 to cause the loyal and patriotic Scots to banish from their 
 memory their once independent government. 
 
O'er the At /antic/ 217 
 
 torn of the old chest was the long lost Scottish 
 Regalia, in a good state of preservation, notwith- 
 standing their having laid there 110 years. The 
 royal flag was immediately hoisted upon the 
 castle, which was greeted by the loud shouts of 
 a numerous crowd assembled outside the Avails, 
 impatient to learn the result of the interesting 
 search. The officers having reported the happy 
 result to the Prince Regent, the custody of the 
 Regalia was on the 8th of July, 181 8, committed 
 to the officers of State, by a warrant under the 
 great seal, with instructions, after making suit- 
 able precautions for their safety, that they might 
 be exhibited to the public, and in one year later 
 the public were gratified with a sight of those 
 venerable memorials. 
 
 Afterwards we visited, before leaving the 
 castle, " Queen Margaret's Chapel," the most 
 ancient building in Edinburgh, measuring only 
 16 1-2 feet by 10 1-2 feet within the nave, and I 
 was informed that it was the smallest chapel in 
 all Scotland. An immense cannon formed of 
 staves and hoops of iron welded together, adorns 
 a modern carriage near by, called " Mons Meg." 
 On the carriage is a description of its history, 
 but there is a doubt as to whether it was forged in 
 Scotland or in Flanders — most probably the lat- 
 ter. 
 
 Leaving this ancient fortress, still garrisoned 
 by troops, we wended our way to Holyrood 
 Palace, situate at the foot of a lofty hill called 
 I 
 
2i8 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 "Arthur's Seat." This building is constructed 
 similar in form to Hampton Court, and dates 
 back from the days of Queen Mary. We were 
 soon wandering, i. e., I was in deep thought, 
 through its ancient chambers, entering first the 
 picture gallery, a long room, the walls of which 
 were hung w^th portraits in sombre frames of a 
 hundred kings of Scotland, from Ferguson the 
 First to the end of the Stewart dynasty, being 
 copies of originals and painted by De Witt in 
 the 1 6th century. A striking peculiarity in the 
 features of most of those monarchs is the length 
 of the nose, which is unusually long, especially 
 among those of tlie earlier date, which date back 
 to 330 years B. C, when Fergus was king. The 
 Parliament for some time was held in this room. 
 We were next shown into Lord Darnley's room 
 and the audience chamber, the walls of which are 
 hung Avith ancient tapestry, and some dozen 
 paintings of various monarchs. There are seve- 
 ral other rooms of more or less note hung with 
 tapestry, the subjects of which are dim with age, 
 the most interesting of which are Queen Mary's 
 reception room, supper room and bed room. In 
 one of those is to be seen the bedstead and other 
 furniture of Charles I, which he used when 
 residing in the palace, also some embroidered 
 chairs of the same date. In the reception room 
 Mary and the great reformer Knox oftentimes 
 met face to face, and discussed topics with refer- 
 ence to her religious faith, the result of which 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 219 
 
 proved so fatal to her interests.* It was the sup- 
 per room wherein Secretary Rizzio received his 
 mortal wounds, and whence he was dragged 
 in the Queen's presence by the conspirators, 
 stabbing him over and over again, until death 
 relieved him of his agonies. The ceiling of 
 her bed room is divided into panels, each panel 
 bearing the arms and initials of Scottish sove- 
 reigns in the centre, and is partially furnished 
 with the bedstead, bedding and decayed hangings, 
 used by the unfortunate Queen when occupying 
 the apartment. It was from this room through a 
 small private door that the upstart, Darnley, and 
 his infamous associates went into the royal apart- 
 ment to murder Rizzio. 
 
 In my next I will give my readers an account 
 of the Old Abbey or Chapel Royal adjoining the 
 Palace, and the remainder of the sights we saw 
 in the modern Athens. 
 
 *The Reformer was the source of much anoyance to the 
 Queen, and his persistent efforts to induce her to change 
 her creed, made her the more firm in her belief. 
 
220 O'er tlu Atlantic. 
 
 LETTER XXIII. 
 
 SCOTLAND, CONTINUED. 
 
 After seeing all that was of interest within the 
 walls of Holyrood Palace, we wended our ivay 
 to survey the ruins of all that is left of the old 
 abbey or chapel royal, adjoining the palace, 
 which was founded by King David. The mon- 
 astery dates back to the twelfth century. Edward 
 II done much damage to it, and Richard II set 
 fire to it in 1385, when after undergoing repairs 
 it suffered much in 1547, and at the outbreak of 
 the reformation it was made a complete ruin. 
 
 Within its ancient walls many of the Scotch 
 monarchs were crowned and married, and in the 
 eastern extremity, under the large window, 
 kneeled Mary, Queen of Scots, when she gave 
 her hand to the simpleton, Darnley, and near 
 the spot, to the right, is the old vault, wherein it 
 is said, rested at one time, the remains of King 
 David II, as also that of otlier monarchs of 
 Scotland; but alas! the ravages of war and 
 time, have left no record of the" facts. Leaving 
 the interior for a while, we went outside to view 
 
O'er the Atlantic, 221 
 
 the exterior, and looking up over the doorway 
 we saw the following inscription on a plain and 
 unassuming stone, imbedded in the wail by 
 Charles I, and I give it to my readers in precise 
 form : 
 
 " He shall build ane house 
 
 For my name, and I will 
 
 Stablish the Throne 
 
 Of his Kingdom 
 
 For ever." 
 
 " Basilicam hance 
 Return Carolus Rex 
 Optimus Instauravit 
 Anno Doni." 
 
 Several fine monuments, especially those 
 erected to the memory of Lord Rcay and -Vis- 
 count Belhaven (the latter a very beautiful one), 
 and tombstones are to be seen within the ruin, 
 tlie inscriptions upon several of which arc quite 
 legible, one showing the distinct date of 1455, 
 and on one is the following very charactpristic 
 inscription: 
 
 " Heir 13'es ane honorable woman, 
 
 Callit Margaret Erskin, Lady Alercus, 
 
 And Dame XVII, July, 159." 
 
 But the history of a great many of even tliose 
 that can be deciphered, is buried with tliem, for 
 there are no authentic records to be found ot 
 who, or what they were in their time; and not- 
 withstanding the ruinous state of tlie abbey, 
 many of the present nobility of Scotland, Avhose 
 ancestors sleep within those old walls, still keep 
 
2 22 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 adding to the number, as the members of the 
 various generations depart this life, for they 
 cherish a love and respect for tlieir ancient burial 
 place. 
 
 After taking a last lingering look at this old 
 ruin, we took our leave, entered the carriage, 
 Avhich had been in waiting, and were driven 
 around tlie " Queen's drive," which afforded us 
 beeautiful views of the Firth of Forth, Leith 
 Harbor, and of Craig-millar Castle, wherein 
 have resided James IV, V, and Oueen Mary. 
 Passing around the mountain called '' Arthur's 
 Seat," which towered high above us, crouching 
 in lion form, for it resembles very nuich that 
 majestic beast of the forest, we again entered 
 the citv by another route, and proceeded to visit 
 other phices, among which I may name tiie Royal 
 Institution and the Antiquarian Museum, which 
 contained a host of national relics, many of 
 which were associated with the life and times of 
 John Knox and others of his time, tlie National 
 (rallery devoted to the exhibition of pictures, quite 
 a fine collection, and Callow Hill, from where we 
 obtained a beautiful view of the city, the Firth of 
 Forth, Arthur's Seat and the Castle, and I will say 
 that it was the finest view I have ever witnessed. 
 
 On Callow Hill, resembling the ruins of Athens, 
 is the unfinished National Monument, which has 
 in its incomplete state, cost ;^i 2,000, and owes its 
 present classic appearance, to a want of further 
 funds for its completion. In the immediate 
 
O'cj- the Atlantic. 223 
 
 neighborhood is the Edinburgh high school, a 
 magnificent building, the Prison, a castellated 
 building, constructed of hewn stone, and Burns' 
 monument, which contains relics connected with 
 his memor}'. 
 
 We also saw John Knox's house, built in the 
 fifteenth century, and occupied by him until 1572, 
 when he died ; it contains implements of torture, 
 and his favorite chair ; Regent Murray's house, 
 Union cellar, and the old Parliament house ; but 
 w^e could not remain in beautiful Edinburgh any 
 longer, tempus fugit, so we had to leave for other 
 scenes, but it was with regret, that I had to forego 
 the further pleasure of strolling up and down 
 gay Princess street, with its magnificent Scott 
 monument, its less pretending one of Allan Ram- 
 say (Gentle Shepherd), elegant buildings and 
 beautiful walks, where Sir Walter Scott often- 
 times loitered, chatting \\\t\\ one, then the other, 
 and politely saluting each passer-by, as they 
 respectfully recognized the soul-stirring poet of 
 Abbottsford. 
 
 Yes, I left Edinburgh with a pang of regret, 
 for I liked it very much, and w^ould gladly reside 
 there, but it could not be. — We must onward ; 
 hark ! it is the old request ; " take your seats, 
 please," the train is on the eve of starting, we 
 hurry to our seats, the carriage door is closed and 
 locked, and in a minute we are steaming out of 
 the delightful city of the " Modern Athens" (a 
 very appropriate name) and in a very short time 
 
2 24 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 it is far behind, and the train stops at some place, 
 the name of which did not catch our ears, as the j 
 guards called it out, so I inquired of an elderly 
 gentleman who sat opposite me, who politely 
 answered Linlithgoiv. Yes reader, we were in 
 the place where the Stuarts figured so much in 
 their day, and on our right was the ancient 
 Palace, wherein the beautiful Mary Oueen of 
 Scots first saw the light ; but while Ave were 
 intently gazing upon the ancient structure, the 
 train moved on, and I had to lean out the win- 
 dow to gain one parting look at its ancient walls. 
 Away we w^ent past Falkirk, where the great 
 Wallace sustained defeat by Edward I on over 
 a portion of the field of Bannockburn, which 
 promptly called to my mind Burns' immortal 
 song, " Scots wha hae wi Wallace bled," and ere 
 I had quit thinking of the terrible conflict which 
 once deluged the field with blood, we had 
 arrived in Stirling, of which I will write in my 
 next. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 225 
 
 t LETTER XXIV. 
 
 SCOTLAND, CONTINUED. 
 
 Stirling. — We remained there but sufilcient 
 time to see the most interesting parts of it, so 
 made our way immediately on our arrival for the 
 old castle, Avhich we found resembled very much 
 that of Edinburgh, especially in the position it 
 occupies, and like it, has within its walls its 
 chambers of horrors, for there is the room in 
 wliich the brave Douglas (now called the 
 '' Douglas room,") lost his life by the hands of 
 assassins, who secreted themselves in the chamber 
 adjoining, hence why it is named the " Secret 
 Chamber," and underneath tlie window over the 
 arched oratewav his lifeless bodv, it is said, was 
 found in the morning. A lady is in charge ot 
 those rooms, who expects a fee from all visitors 
 ere she will volunteer to give a minute account 
 of how and why the brave warrior became a 
 victim to the assassin's knife, which account is 
 no doubt vague and very incorrect.* 
 
 ^ This woman was most exacting, unpleasant and impoHte, 
 and should be removed, to give room for one ol better 
 manners. 
 I'" 
 
2 26 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 One of the soldiers of the garrison, off duty, 
 as we emerged from the Douglas room, very 
 politely proffered his services to show us around 
 the castle, which I gladly accepted, and our 
 guide quickly led the way to the battlements, 
 from where he pointed out various places of 
 interest, commencing by drawing my attention 
 to the Wallace monument, now in the course of 
 erection on the Abbey Craig, to complete which 
 Scotchmen and the descendants of Scotchmen in 
 the United States and the Canadas have con- 
 tributed, and are still contributing large sums of 
 money ; but the structure, magnificent and stu- 
 pendous as it is, deserves a better location than 
 that it is erected on. Stirling, or the centre of 
 the ever memorable field of Bannockburn would 
 be, in my opinion, a far more desirable location. 
 My attention was next called to the battle field of 
 Stirling, and then to that of Bannockburn, both 
 in right opposite directions, but Avithin a few 
 miles of each other. Airthrey Castle, the seat of 
 Lord Abercrombie, and that of Sir William 
 Stirling Maxwell, of Kerr, Kenneth Abbey, in 
 which lies interred the remains of James III, 
 and over which has been lately erected at the 
 expense of her present majesty, the Queen, an 
 elegant tomb in memory of that long departed 
 monarch. I was also shown the Tournament 
 ground beneath the walls, and the stone wheron 
 Mary Queen of Scots often sat to watch the 
 national games of the period, by looking through 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 227 
 
 an aperture in the wall, without being seen by 
 those engaged in the games. Away in the dis- 
 tance and visible to the naked eye is the fashion- 
 able little town of the Bridge of Allan, a place 
 of much resort by the wealthy, desirous of rus- 
 ticating among mountains and green fields. 
 Indeed, from the battlements the whole country 
 around for many miles can be seen, and a more 
 extensive and delightful view is but seldom wit- 
 nessed. 
 
 Leaving the polite and obliging' man at arms, 
 the palm of whose hand I gently pressed with one 
 of Her Majesty's silver coin, and in return 
 received a most grateful smile and a polite salute 
 for my generosity. We passed the guard of red 
 coats on our way to the outside of the walls of 
 tlie castle, and ere we had proceeded very far met 
 an elderly man, who introduced himself as 
 guide, and offered me his services in that 
 capacity, wiiich I did not refuse nor accept. 
 '' Silence gives consent," thought Mr. Guide, no 
 doubt, for he commenced by calling my atten- 
 tion to an old building in front of which we had 
 halted, and the history of which he gave to me in 
 broad Scotch, viz : 
 
 "This old building, sir, was erected by the 
 Regent, intending it for a palace for James VI., but 
 after it was commenced and in process of construc- 
 tion the site was objected to by the public, and per- 
 haps by the King himself, and the Regent being 
 of a proud and independent spirit, suddenly sus- 
 
2 2S O'er the Atlantic. ' ■ 
 
 pended operations and left it in its unfinished 
 state." The following characteristic inscription 
 over the doorway speaks for itself : 
 
 The moir I stand on open hicht 
 My faults moir subject ar to sitght, 
 I pray all luckers on this loging 
 With gentle e' to gif thair juging. 
 
 The cathedral, or grey friar church of Francis- 
 can monks, in the rear of the Regent's old build- 
 ing, was erected by James IV, 1494, and is 
 really an old fashioned building. It was then 
 undergoing repairs, so we did not see the interior, 
 but went through a great portion of the burial 
 ground adjoining, in which are some verv fine 
 monuments, several of which have been erected 
 at the sole expense of a Mr. William Drummond, 
 a wealthy Scotch gentleman, resident in the 
 neighborhood, to the memory of Scotch martyrs 
 of the reformation, and others identified with it. 
 One of those monuments attracted my particular 
 attention. It was enclosed within a glass 
 pavilion to protect it from the weather, in 
 memory of Margaret Wilson and her sister 
 Agnes, comprised of three life size figures repre- 
 senting the two sisters and their guardian angel, 
 the latter of the finest Italian marble, sculptured 
 in Rome. This group is exceedingly beautiful, 
 and cannot but challenge the admiration of all 
 who see them. A liigh pyramid is also erected 
 there by the same gentleman in memory of 
 martyrs of the 17th century, and tliere are also 
 
O'er the Atlmitic. 229 
 
 very many fine statues, among which are those 
 of John Knox, Henderson, Melville and others, 
 whose names are as household words to those 
 acquainted with the history of Scotland. 
 
 As I wandered over the ground in search of 
 the oldest inscription among the old tombstones 
 of which I found none prior to 1523, I noticed 
 the following lines on a tombstone, formerly 
 erected in memory of Alexander E. Mifflin in 
 1809, and later to the memory of one of the 
 same name, who had been chief constable of 
 Stirlingshire, who died in 1867 : 
 
 Our, life, is, but, a, winter, day, 
 
 Some, only, breakfast, and, away, 
 
 Others, to. Dinner, stay. 
 
 And, are, well, fed. 
 
 The, oldest, man, but, sups. 
 
 And, goes, to, bed, 
 
 Large, is, his, debt, 
 
 That, lingers, out, the, day, 
 
 He, that, goes, soonest. 
 
 Has, the, least, to, pay. 
 From " Ladies' Hill," an elevated spot over- 
 looking the Tournament ground beneath the 
 castle walls, can be obtained a beautiful view of 
 the country. General Monck held this position 
 when he took the castle, and on the old church 
 tower can be plainly seen the marks of the shot 
 fired on his forces from the battlements of the 
 castle during the siege. 
 
 Our guide, who I found was a well informed 
 man, directed our steps from the old burial 
 
230 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 ground to Argyle Lodge, erected by Alexander, 
 first Earl of Stirling, 1652, and told me it was 
 occupied by the Duke of Argyle during the first 
 rebellion. Within its walls Charles I was enter- 
 tained when on a visit to Stirling. We were 
 afterwards sliown Lord Darnley's residence, 
 where James VI was nursed; Earl Bothwell's 
 house, the murderer of Darnley, who afterwards 
 aspired to the hand of his royal widow; and the 
 old mint, wherein the first coin, called a bawbee, 
 was coined, which had on one side an impression 
 of the head of Queen Mary when a child, hence 
 bawbee, meaning little or small, perhaps of the 
 value of a farthing or an American half cent. 
 —Proceeding on our way to the hotel our 
 attention was drawn to an old building still 
 inhabited, wherein at one time resided a certain 
 Knight of the Scissors, whose sign of native 
 stone still remains imbedded in the wall over the 
 door, with the following inscription rudely 
 inscribed thereon. I give an exact copy so far 
 as form is concerned : 
 
 Robert Spittal, 
 
 Tailor [scissors] to King, 
 
 James 4th Anno 
 
 1530 
 
 R. S. 
 
 We left this ancient and pretty town by the 
 North British Railway for Glasgow, by way of 
 Balloch, on Lochlomand. For unfortunately we 
 were unable to proceed to the Trossac/is, owing 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 231 
 
 to the heavy rains which fell at the time, and 
 which we were informed made it very unpleasant, 
 a circumstance I was sorry for, as the scenery it 
 is said, is grand in the extreme. 
 
 On our arrival at Balloch Ave changed cars and 
 proceeded on our journey through Dumbarton 
 with its old castle on the rocks high above the 
 Clyde, then along the banks of that shallow^ and 
 muddy but busy river, until we arrived in the 
 great city of Glasgow^ and immediately pro- 
 ceeded, weary and tired, to the " Cobden Hotel," 
 on Argyle street, which we found replete with 
 everv comfort and convenience. 
 
232 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 .LETTER XXV. 
 
 SCOTLAND, CONTINUED. 
 
 Glasgow. — I found this city to be precisely as 
 I was informed, a smoky, busy place, as much 
 unlike Edinburgh as day is to night, with nothing 
 of much interest to recommend it to the stranger 
 and tourist; but notwithstanding I must give my 
 readers a brief account of some of its public and 
 commercial buildings, and what we saw during 
 our stay. 
 
 The Cathedral. — This large, and indeed T 
 may say fine old structure, now very much 
 restored, was dedicated, it is supposed, to St. 
 Mungo or St. Kentyn, who is the reputed founder 
 of the city. In 560 he established the bishopric 
 of Glasgow. The cathedral was erected by 
 John Achams, Bishop of Glasgow, in 11 13, some 
 iiistorians say during the reign of David I. It is 
 of Gothic architecture, and has in and around it 
 tombstones wdiose inscriptions date back to A. 
 D. 1500, at which time the people, we are 
 informed, went to church carrying concealed 
 weapons, even the clergymen went armed into 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 233 
 
 the pulpit, which, it appears, was necessary, so as 
 to protect themselves from the lawless and 
 ferocious, which were those generally opposed 
 to their doctrine. The cathedral is conducted 
 strictly, /. ^., in the mode of worship, as the 
 church of Scotland (Presbyterian), and like all 
 the churches of that persuasion throughout 
 Scotland, the services are simple and plain, with 
 only congregational singing, there being no 
 organ nor any musical instrument and professed 
 choir tolerated, to cater to the refined taste of 
 those wdio advocate professional harmony. 
 
 The windows of the cathedral are remarkably 
 fine, being works of art of the most costly and 
 elaborate kind, in stained and painted glass, 
 manufactured at Munich and otlier places cele- 
 brated in the art, and are gifts to the church 
 (in memoriam) from various members of the con- 
 gregation, whose respective names, dates, &c., are 
 inscribed thereon, and setting forth particulars 
 connected with the deceased relatives of the 
 donor, consequently the windows are not of the 
 same pattern and design, but vary according to 
 the taste and amount of money expended in the 
 construction of those handsome and useful monu- 
 ments. 
 
 The Necropolis. — In the immediate neighbor- 
 hood and to the rear of the cathedral is the 
 necropolis or cemetery, elevated two hundred 
 and fifty feet above the river Clyde, in which are 
 erected some verv fine monuments, and the 
 
234 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 grounds are kept in the highest state of cleanli , 
 ness, order and cultivation ; so much so, that it is! 
 daily the resort of hundreds, who stroll through j 
 its romantic walks, admiring the elegant and 
 handsome monuments and vaults which adorn 
 the place, among which stand conspicuous those 
 in memory of John Knox, Dr. Black, Dr. Dick,, 
 McGevin, Maj. Monteith and Alice Dunlop' 
 Knox's monument was the first erected on the 
 ground, long before it became a cemetery, 
 erected there because of its high elevation, and 
 from where a most magnificent view can be 
 obtained of the surrounding country. 
 
 Within the city is a fine public square wherein 
 are some very fine monuments, among which* 
 stands in the centre that erected to the memory I 
 of Sir Walter Scott, and equestrian statues off 
 the Queen and the Prince consort. j 
 
 The Glasgow University is a fine old building j 
 of the 17th century. The National Bank of] 
 Scotland and the Royal Exchange are fine t 
 modern buildings. In front of the latter is a I 
 very fine Wellington monument commemorative \ 
 of the battle of Waterloo, in the design of which i 
 the artist has displayed much genius and good ; 
 taste, in giving life like representations of the : 
 soldier in civil and military life, graphically por- 
 traying his career from agricultural pursuits to | 
 the battle field. As a monumental work of art I '\ 
 was much struck with its beauty and natural | 
 appearance. j 
 

 O'er the Atlantic. 235 
 
 Glasgow has also some fine streets, of which 
 I liked Argyle street the best, and several 
 fine large hotels, which are, I was informed, 
 second to none in the United Kingdom, and it 
 is celebrated as being the great ^nporium of the 
 world for steamship building. Its Clyde built 
 steamers are well known and acknowledged to 
 be the finest and fastest vessels afloat, and are 
 now doing the leading trade in freight and pas- 
 sengers between the United States and the 
 various ports of Europe. It was on the Clyde 
 such steamers as the Scotia, Persia., Cuba., Java and 
 the Russia of the Cunard line, and others of the 
 Inman and other lines were built, after lines and 
 designs of celebrated Scotch ship builders, who 
 are acknowledged to be all over the civilized 
 world masters of their profession. Bidding 
 adieu to Glasgow, w^e took rail and proceeded 
 through Paisley, celebrated for its manufacture 
 of shawls and spool cotton, on by Lochweinon, 
 whereon is often played the celebrated games of 
 curling between the north and south, still on by 
 Kilberney, noticing as we went along several 
 large iron furnaces, wherein is manufactured 
 the celebrated iron known all over the world as 
 '' Scotch Pig," obtaining a view of Ardrossan in 
 the distance, the Firth of Clyde, a broad expanse 
 of water, and Isle of Arran with its lofty hills 
 away to our right, on we went until we arrived 
 in Trova, from where we saw Kilmarnock some 
 distance to our left, and soon after we were dulv 
 
-^^ O'er the Atlantie. 
 
 set down in the quaint and quiet little town of 
 
 Ayr, ,n the Land o' BuRNs.-which Burns 
 informs us 
 
 " Ne'er a town surpasses 
 For honest men and bonnie lasses." 
 As we entered the town, the first sisfht that 
 
 fh"e"T "''p'^''' ""'^ """^^''^ ^"^ '-'"<=■"'''" were 
 
 he Twa Bngs o' Ayr," which are so hallowed 
 
 ■n he stratns of Burns, whose hamorous and 
 
 Th! V?; o^^'" """'^'^ "^^ '"^«°n' of both. 
 Xhe Auld Brtg was built duri,.g the reign of 
 Ale.xander III, t.49— 85, at the sole e.xpense of 
 two maiden ladies named Lowe, who, it is said, 
 devoted the whole of their fortune to the pur! 
 pose. It ,s very narrow and steep at both ends, 
 and was intended no doubt for a foot bridge and 
 for beasts of burden. As we went alon<. I was 
 suddenly brought to a stand still, as nty eves 
 got riveted on the following lines, with two 
 jovial looking figures painted on a sign board 
 
 ssrs: ;'" '°°^ °' -^ ^^^'^^^'^'^■^ ■-'^'-^^ 
 
 " The house wherein Tam O'Shanter 
 and Souter Jolinny lield their meetings " 
 Of course I could not but stay awhile beneath 
 so classic a roof, so in we went and were verv 
 pohteb^ shown up stairs by the good landlady, 
 Mrs Glass, who cosily seated us in the Tarn 
 O Shanter and Souter Johnny chairs, and were 
 soon imbibing of Scotch dew out of the ever 
 memorable cup (of which but verv little is left) 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 237 
 
 used by those worthy and congenial spirits when 
 they met in that very room in the days of Burns, 
 based upon one of which meetings the poet con- 
 trived to link together the humorous and inimit- 
 able poetic tale of "Tarn O'Shanter," when 
 
 ." Ae market night . 
 
 Tarn had got planted unco right, 
 Fast by an ingle, bleezing finely 
 Wi reaming Swats that drunk divinely 
 ^ And at his elbow, Souter Johnny ; 
 
 I His ancient, trusty, drouthie crony.'\ 
 
 P The bard seems to have truly entered into the 
 spirit of the occasion, for he describes liow the 
 fleeting hours under the merry influence of John 
 Barleycorn passed swiftly away, viz : 
 
 " The nicht drave on wi sangs and clatter, 
 And ay the ale was growing better." 
 
 Too often is it the case, that to partake of a 
 little is to create a desire for more, which I infer 
 was the case with those two worthies. 
 
 Midnight came at last, when it is supposed the 
 two '' cronies" prepared to separate for the night, 
 Tam to straddle his " auld grey mare," to pro- 
 ceed on his way home, upon a. remarkable dark 
 and stormy night, of which the poet further 
 says : 
 
 " Night he tak's the road in, 
 
 As ne'er poor sinner was abroad in." 
 
 And his jovial companion the shoemaker, to 
 wend his way homeward afoot, after the fashion of 
 great circle sailing. ^ . __ 
 
238 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 In my next, after giving a general account of 
 Ayr, I will conduct my readers o'er the ground 
 which boozy Tarn traveled on that eventful 
 night. 
 
I 
 
 O'er the Atlantic. 239 
 
 LETTER XXVI. 
 
 SCOTLAND, CONTINUED. 
 
 ^Vyr. — I closed my last communication with 
 Tarn O'Shanter and Souter Johnny's carousal at 
 the old tavern named after the worthy pair, with 
 a promise of giving my readers in my next a 
 further account of this pretty little town ere T 
 took tliem over the road on which Tam ganged 
 hame on that eventful night. 
 
 This beautiful and picturesque town is the 
 county seat of Ayrshire, and is, with its immedi- 
 ate surroundings, so much associated with the 
 life and times of the farmer poet, that it has 
 become known all over the civilized world as the 
 " Land o' Burns." In the northern suburb is the 
 harbor and quay, stretching towards the Firth of 
 Clyde, and the outer position of the latter is 
 occupied by a strong fort, so placed as to com- 
 mand the entrance to the harbor. The present 
 barracks, which occupy the site of a much older 
 edifice, were erected by Oliver Cromwell, when 
 at the head of the British Government. Passing 
 up Sandgate street, a wide and rather handsome 
 
240 O'er the Atlantic. , 
 
 thoroughfare, we were soon in front of the town 
 buildings, the spire of w^hich is lofty and hand- 
 some. I was informed that it is 235 feet high, and 
 that the building contains an assembly room, 
 together with several others used for various 
 purposes. It was erected about forty years ago 
 at an outlay of ^10,000, and it is certainly a I 
 building which the good people of the town and ' 
 countv of Ayr should be proud of. Nearly 
 opposite this building is the Ayrshire Bank, and 
 a little further on, Wellington Square. On this 
 square are several well built houses and the 
 county buildings, wherein are the court house, 
 county assembly room, the office for the use of 
 the various county officials, and of those con- 
 nected with the court. Those buildings were 
 erected in 1822, at a cost of ^30,000, which 
 amount was defrayed by the county. But the 
 most interesting feature in tlie adornment of 
 this square is tliat of a statue of General Neill, 
 who was killed as he led his troops into the 
 citadel of Lucknow, in India, on the 25th of 
 September, 1857. 
 
 Leaving Wellington Square and turning to 
 the right we had a view of an old antique tower, 
 standing in a field a little distance off. It is 
 called the ancient tower of St. John's Church, 
 which was destroyed by Cromwell during the 
 civil war. It was founded in the 12th century, 
 and dedicated to St. John the Baptist. — 
 '' Soon after the independence of Scotland had 
 
p O'er the Atlantic. 241 
 
 been achieved, on the 24th of June, 13 14, by the 
 victory at Bannockburn, it became desirable to 
 fix the succession to the Scottish throne, for 
 which purpose a Parliament was held in St. 
 John's Church at Ayr, on Sunday, the 26th of 
 April, 13 15, on which day, in the old church, was 
 adopted the line of succession in the Bruce 
 family, the whole assembly swearing fealty to 
 King Robert the Bruce. 
 
 Retracing our steps from this point towards 
 Sandgate street, we obtained a good view of the 
 Bay of Ayr, with Grennan Castle, built on a 
 high rock, and the celebrated Ailsa Craig, in the 
 distance. 
 
 The Parish Church, or " x\uld Kirk o' Ayr," 
 is built upon the site of an old Dominican mon- 
 astery, founded in 1230, out of funds contributed 
 by Oliver Cromwell by way of compensation for 
 the destruction of St. John's Church. 
 
 The Wallace Tower is a beautiful gothic 
 structure, rising to the height of one hundred 
 feet. The lower part is converted into a hand- 
 some store or shop, above which are three stories, 
 each a good sized room in itself, one of which is 
 occupied as a mechanics' institute, and the 
 others by the bellman of the tower. The build- 
 ing contains a fine peal of bells and a handsome 
 clock. In a niche on the front is a statue of the 
 lamented and patriotic Wallace, to whose memory 
 the tower was erected at a cost of about two 
 .thousand pounds. 
 
242 O'er' the Atlantic. 
 
 Leaving Ayr we proceeded some distance into 
 the country, to see the neighborhood where 
 Robert Burns spent .a great portion of his 
 lifetime, and I was soon gladdened with a sight 
 of the following, written on a sign board over 
 the doorway of a thatched cottage (the outer 
 walls of which were thickly white washed with 
 wholesome lime)': 
 
 " The house in which Burns was born." 
 
 Soon we were within its portals, which we 
 found densely crowded with visitors. Yes, 
 reader, in that humble abode on the roadside, 
 was ushered into the world on the 25th day of 
 January, 1759, a peasant boy, whose fame has 
 gone forth throughout the civilized world. And 
 in a recess, wherein stands the old bedstead in 
 the kitchen of the cottage, still occupied as a 
 sleeping place, as he himself informs us, 
 
 "A blast o' Janwar Avin 
 
 Blew hansel in on Robin." 
 
 By which he meant to convey to us that on a 
 certain night soon after his birth a storm blew 
 down the outer wall of the frail cottage, owing 
 to which himself and his mother had to be 
 removed to another part of the house while the 
 damage was being repaired. 
 
 In this old cottage, it is said, the poet — indeed 
 his biographers say so — wrote the much admired 
 poem, "The Cottar's Saturday Night," and now 
 its great and growing celebrity, the popularity 
 of the district, and the multiplicity of visitors, 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 243 
 
 has done much to keep in repair and improve the 
 old homestead for the owners. " The Corpora- 
 tion of the Shoemakers of Ayr," to whom Burn's 
 father sold the property before removing himself 
 and family to Lochlee, caused a large hall to be 
 built in the rear of the old premises, thus not 
 only improving and rendering more valuable the 
 property, but doing much to increase the accom- 
 modation for visitors. A register book is kept 
 by the proprietor of the house, who is licensed 
 as an Inn-keeper, wlierin are registered the names 
 of visitors, and which now contains the auto- 
 graphs of thousands of almost every rank in 
 life, who have journeyed from all parts of the 
 world to view the spot wherein the immortal 
 bard received his first inspiration. 
 
 In the kitchen still remains the old oak dresser, 
 on which was once placed the plain and unas- 
 suming crockery ware used by the family for 
 their frugal meals, and I was informed that the 
 old grate is the sa?ne in every respect as when 
 the cottage was occupied by the family. 
 
 So interesting has the birth place of Robert 
 Burns become, that there is scarcely a spot on 
 the white washed wall but has the name of some 
 votary written thereon in pencil, and cupboards, 
 doors, door-frames, tables, chairs, benches, &c., 
 have scarcely an inch of smooth surface but that 
 have been served likewise with the knife. 
 
 Had time permitted, I would have gladly spent 
 a few days in the old cottage, for I love such 
 
244 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 places, and let my mind wander back to the 
 days when the immortal bard lived and moved 
 within its precincts. Good old days were those, 
 wherein lived the man who done more to elevate 
 man in the estimation of himself than did any 
 other of the great poets of the past or present 
 day. But I had to take not one, but many long 
 lingering looks at the old spot, ere I could tear 
 myself away. 
 
 Near to the cottage, and on the road to the 
 Burns monument, is Alloway Kirk, a roofless 
 old building described by the poet in his poem 
 of " Tam O'Shanter," as " Alloway 's Auld 
 Haunted Kirk," wherein, he informs us, the 
 witches held their high carnival on the night 
 Tam rode his " auld grey mare" toward his 
 home from Ayr, after his merry making with his 
 friend Souter Johnny. Imagine Tam jogging 
 along well filled with home brewed ale, with his 
 " Dutch courage" at sticking point, wondering 
 to himself what kind of a reception he would 
 receive from his better-half, who was anxiously 
 waiting his return, and what reasonable excuse 
 he could make for his prolonged stay, when 
 passing the old church to witness therein that 
 which the poet describes in the following lines : 
 " Sat auld Nick, in shape o' beast, 
 
 A towsie tyke, black, grim and large. 
 To gie them music was his charge ; 
 He screw'd the pipes and gart them skirl, 
 Till roof and rafters a' did dirl." — 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 245 
 
 causing Tarn, perhaps, to plunge the rowels of 
 his spurs (if he had any), deep into the flanks of 
 the old mare, making her to bound forward with 
 the speed of a race horse, with the witches close 
 to her heels. 
 
 The first thing that attracted my attention on 
 entering into the grave-y^rd of the old church, 
 was a head stone, erected by Burns in memory 
 of his father, on which were inscribed the follow- 
 ing affectionate lines, composed by the poet: 
 "O ye whose cheek the tear of pity stains, 
 
 Draw near with pious reverence and attend ; 
 Here lie the loving husband's dear remains, 
 
 The tender father and the generous friend, 
 The pitying heart that felt for human woe, 
 
 The dauntless heart that feared no human pride, 
 The friend of man, to vice alone a foe. 
 
 For even his failings leaned to virtue's side," 
 
 The interior of the old church is now used as 
 a burial place, wherein rest the remains of 
 several persons of note, and in the grave-yard 
 are interred others of no less note, in vaults sur- 
 rounded with iron railing. 
 
 The old sexton in attendance showed us the 
 grave of Souter Johnny, " Tam's ancient, trusty, 
 drouthie crony." The following lines are 
 inscribed on an unassuming head stone of native 
 
 stone : 
 
 " Erected by John Laughlan, 
 
 To the memory of his Father, 
 
 and 
 
 David Laughlan, 
 
 his Grandfather, 
 
 late in Cunning Park. 
 
246 O'er the Atlantic, 
 
 I was informed that the bard's remains lie at 
 Dumfries,* over which an elegant monument is 
 erected, which represents liim in the capacity of 
 plowman. His mother's remains were interred 
 at Bolton, East Lothian, and those of Tam 
 O'Shanter lie beneath the green sod of Kirk 
 Oswald. The following lines are copied from 
 the poem by Mr. Roscoe, on the death of Scotia's 
 Bard : 
 
 Rear high thy bleak, majestic hills, 
 
 Thy shelter'd valleys proudly spread. 
 And, Scotia, pour thy thousand rills. 
 
 And wave thy heaths with blossoms red ; 
 But never more shall poet tread. 
 
 Thy airy heights, thy woodland reign, 
 . Since he the sweetest bard is dead 
 
 That ever breathed the soothing strain. 
 
 I must now bring this letter to a close, so adieu 
 for the present. 
 
 * Robert Burns, who was then in the British Revenue 
 service as Exciseman, after a series ol afflictions, among 
 which was that of rheumatism, departed this life at Dum- 
 fries, on the 2ist of July, 1796, leaving a wife and four sons 
 to mourn his early death. Two of his sons became othcers 
 in the East India Company's service, and another was 
 employed in the British Stamp Office, and the other, a lad 
 of much promise, died of consumption. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 247 
 
 r 
 
 LETTER XXVIT. 
 
 SCOTLAND, CONTINUED. 
 
 From Alloway Kirk we proceeded along the 
 road whicli our friend Tarn O'Shanter rode over 
 when followed closely by the witches, in the 
 hope that he coidd reach the bridge, now^ known 
 as the " Aidd Brig o' Doon," which spans the 
 river Doon, and leave the keystone of the arch 
 in his rear, wdien their power over him, it was 
 said, would cease. But alas ! he was doomed to 
 disappointment, for just as he gained the bridge 
 the enraged hags caught the auld grey mare by 
 the tail, of which the bard further says : 
 
 " The carlin clauglit her by the rump, 
 An' left puir jSIaggie scarce a stump." 
 
 On we went until we came in sight of a neat 
 hotel, erected at the junction of the old and new 
 road leading towards Maybole, named the " Burn's 
 Hotel," in and around which some hundreds of 
 persons were assembled, to visit the monument 
 and Auld Brigo' Doon, some of which were accom- 
 
248 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 panied by bands of music, whose lively strains 
 were principally those associated with the songs 
 of Burns. 
 
 The monument is erected on a site oyerlooking 
 the old bridge, and is an open circular temple of 
 classic beauty, having nine fluted Corinthian 
 columns representing the muses. It is sixty feet 
 high, on a base of rustic mason work twenty feet 
 high, making it eighty feet from the ground. 
 The interior is a circular room, lighted by a 
 cupola of rich stained glass, which contains 
 many relics connected with the history of the 
 poet, among which is the Bible he presented to 
 Highland Mary when they last met, and Jane 
 Armour's gold finger rings, some copies of the 
 best edition of his works, and other articles of 
 interest linked with his memory, as also a well 
 executed marble bust of him in his palmy days. 
 
 Leaving that room we wandered over the 
 grounds which surround the monument, and 
 while doing so came upon a small cottage which 
 we entered, and found it to contain the original 
 life-size statues of Tam O'Shanter and Souter 
 Johnny, the handiwork of a self-taught sculptor, 
 a native of the neighborhood. I was informed 
 that they were exhibited in all the principal 
 cities and towns of Great Britain, where they 
 were universally acknowledged as being perfect 
 in every respect, and admired as a great work of 
 art, thereby establishing for the artist a reputation 
 
O'er ike Atlantic. 249 
 
 land gaining for himself a name, which added 
 Imuch to his pecuniary resources. 
 
 We left this delightful retreat and proceeded 
 down the old road, and^oon were on the Auld 
 Brig o' Doon, picturing in my imagination Tam 
 O'Shanter's fight over it, "when more dead than 
 alive," and the days when the immortal bard trod 
 its surface. There I stood with my heart full, 
 attentively listening to the beautiful song, " Ye 
 Banks and Braes o' Bonnie Doon," rendered by 
 jone of the visitors, accompanied by a chorus of 
 a hundred A-oices from those standing on and 
 around the bridge. More pure devotion I had 
 but seldom witnessed. Every one seemed to be 
 solely devoted to the day and occasion, as if there 
 I to worship at the shrine of Burns. 
 1 The bridge, of late, has been very much 
 ! restored by removing the thick ivy which for 
 many years had clad its gray walls, and by 
 repairing with cement the fast decaying stones, 
 joints and crevices. But the stones which sur- 
 mount the walls are the same, and still bear 
 thousands of names and initials of names, rudely 
 carved on their surface by some of those who 
 have from time to time journeyed into the land 
 of Burns, and among which soon figured another 
 name, for I availed myself of the opportunity of 
 adding mine to the list, choosing for the pur- 
 pose the tenth or centre stone on the right hand 
 side going towards Maybole. 
 
 I found it very pleasant, nay, delightful, to 
 
 L 
 
250 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 wander along the banks of the beautiful and 
 placid little river, so much associated with the 
 memory of the great bard, where he, upon many 
 occasions, as he reclined on the green sward, or 
 leisurely walked along, his soul wrapped in the 
 muse, composed some of the poems which now 
 are so much admired. Apropos of this, if I 
 recollect right, it was there he composed or laid 
 down the foundation of his truly laughable and 
 amusing poem of Tam O'Shanter; and w^hile 
 doing so his wife, who became anxious for his 
 return home one day, owing to him remaining 
 out on his walk longer than usual, went out to 
 seek him, when she found him walking along the 
 river bank, making the strangest gesticulations, 
 and at times laughing and talking to himself 
 which might have led her to suppose that he had 
 become suddenly insane, and perhaps more fit for 
 an inmate of a lunatic asylum, than a wanderer 
 along a river bank. But the poet was then, it 
 appears, overhead and ears in this inimitable poem, 
 which was affording him mirth beyond his concep- 
 tion, and causing him to laugh immoderately at liis 
 ludicrous composition, of which the following 
 are the most amusing parts, depicting Tarn's 
 approaching the old haunted kirk :* 
 
 " The lightnings flashed from pole to pole ; 
 Near and more near the thunders roll ; 
 When glimmering thro' the groaning trees, 
 
 *The writer is not positive that the Bard composed 
 " Tam O'Shanter," even in this neighborhood. 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 Kirk AUoway seemed in a bleeze ; 
 
 Tliro' ilka bore the beams were glancing, ; 
 
 And loud resounded mirth and dancing. 
 
 " Inspiring bold John Barleycorn ! 
 
 What dangers thou canst make us scorn ! 
 
 Wi' tippen}^ we fear nae evil ; 
 
 Wi' asquabae we'll face the devil ! — 
 
 The swat's sae ream'd in Tammie's noddle. 
 
 Fair play, he car'd nae deils a boddle, 
 
 But Maggie stood right sair astonish'd, 
 
 Till, by the heel and hand admonish'd ; 
 
 She ventur'd forward on the light, 
 
 And wow ! Tam saw an unco sight ! 
 
 Warlocks and witches in a dance, 
 
 Nae cotillion brent new frae France, 
 
 But hornpipes, jigs, strathspeys and reels, 
 
 Put life and mettle in their heels.' 
 
 " As Tammie glowr'd, amaz'd and curious. 
 
 The mirth and lun grew fast and furious ; 
 
 The piper loud and louder blew. 
 
 The dancers quick and quicker flew ; 
 
 They recl'd, they set, they cross'd, they cleekit 
 
 Till ilka carlin swat and reekit. 
 
 And coost her duddies to the wark 
 
 And linket at it in her sark ! 
 
 " But wither'd beldams, auld and droll, 
 Rigwoodie hags, wad spean a foal, 
 Lowping an' flinging on a cummock, 
 I wonder didna turn thy stomach. 
 And how Tam stood like one bewitch'd, 
 And thought his very een enrich'd ;, 
 Even Satan glower'd, and fidg'd fu' fain, 
 And botched and blew wi might and main ; 
 Till first ae caper, syne anither 
 Tam tint his reason a' thegither, 
 
252 O'er the Atlantic, 
 
 And roars out 'weel done, cutty-sark !' 
 And in an instant all was dark ; 
 And scarcely had he Maggie rallied, 
 When out the hellish legion sallied. 
 
 " As befes bizz out wi angry fyke, 
 
 When plundering herds assail their byke ; 
 
 As open pussie's mortal foes, 
 
 When, pop ! she starts before their nose ; 
 
 As eager runs the market crowd, 
 
 When " catch the thief!" resounds aloud ; 
 
 So Maggie runs, the witches follow, 
 
 Wi' mony an eldritch screech and hollow. 
 
 " Ah, Tam ! ah. Tarn ! thou'll get thy fairin' ! 
 In hell they'll roast thee like a herrin' ! 
 In vain thy Kate awaits thy comin', 
 Kate soon will be a woefu woman ! 
 Now do th)' speedy utmost, Meg, 
 And coin the keystane of the Brig ; 
 There at them then th)^ tail may toss. 
 A running stream they darena cross !" 
 
 *' Thus runs the legend poem througliout, dis- 
 playing much variety of power in its brief com- 
 position. It was written as an inducement to 
 Grose to admit Alloway Kirk into his work on 
 the antiquities of Scotland, so we are informed, 
 by Allan Cunningham, in his- new life of the 
 poet." And now having given a somewhat 
 more lengthy account of the " Land o' Burns," 
 past and present, than I intended to do, I nfust 
 away from that very interesting spot and subject, 
 and bid Scotland adieu, for the time has at length 
 arrived to within a few days of our departure to 
 re-cross once more the broad Atlantic: but 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 253 
 
 a few words about Scotland and its people 
 generally will, I trust, not be out of place in this 
 letter; for I have on the termination of our tour 
 in Ireland and Wales remarked briefly on the 
 same subject. 
 
 j Scotland is the northern part of Great Britain, 
 
 and to a great extent is mountainous, its moun- 
 
 t tain tops, covered with heather, and dotted with 
 
 ' hundreds of thousands of small sheep, is grand, 
 
 majestic and picturesque in the extreme ; and 
 
 I indeed, I may say that there are but few places or 
 
 ' parts of the united kingdom which can favorably 
 
 compare with the rich and prolific soil that lies 
 
 between Edinburgh, Sterling, and away towards 
 
 ' Balloch on Loch-lomond, land, I was creditably 
 
 '1 informed, that cannot be excelled for its yield of 
 
 the product of agriculture. 
 
 To me, Scotia is certainly to be much admired 
 for its vast wild mountain scenery, perfectly 
 treeless, but when covered with the blooming 
 heather as with a purple mantle, it lends it a 
 charm but seldom if ever witnessed in any other 
 country that I have visited. And when the 
 approaching storms begin to gather, when the 
 lowering clouds begin to nestle on the mountain 
 tops, when the thousands of small sheep in conse- 
 quence begin to gather into their respective folds, 
 under the adroit management of their shepherds 
 and sagacious dogs, and amid the roaring of the 
 wind and the pitiless rain, the claps of thunder 
 and much dreaded forked lightning, the scene 
 
254 O'er the Atlantic 
 
 changes from that delightful charm to that 
 of the most awfully grand ; but I am digressing 
 in speaking of the country I must not forget it's 
 people, who have so much to admire and be 
 proud of. 
 
 The Scotch, as I remarked in my letter on the 
 termination of our tour thrbugh Wales, are of the 
 Celtic or Keltic race. A people endowed with 
 much courage, accustomed to great hardships, 
 physically and otherwise, and are thrifty, indus- 
 trious and frugal in their habits, patriotic and loyal, 
 becoming intelligent and well informed through 
 not being backward in study, availing themseh^s 
 of the teachings of the excellent schools with 
 which the country abounds, hence why we find 
 among the Scots in this country such a well 
 informed class of people. As a people, both at 
 home and abroad, I have had frequent opportu- 
 nities of judging their characteristics, and am 
 pleased to remark that I have always found them 
 honest, truthful and upright, warm in their friend- 
 ship, and good law abiding citizens. 
 
\ 
 
 O'er the Atlantic. 255 
 
 LETTER XXVITI. 
 
 ENGLAND AGAIN. 
 
 Leaving Glasgow by a different route to that 
 we arrived by, we on a fine morning in Septem- 
 ber, took the 10 A. M. train on the Caledonia 
 Railroad for 
 
 Liverpool,— Of which place I shall give but a 
 brief description, for its history is so well known 
 in America, commercially and otherwise, from 
 its almost every day communications with New 
 York ; and setting aside its vast and magnifi- 
 cent line of docks for the accommodation of 
 shipping, I may say tliat there is nothing of 
 much interest to be seen by the traveler. 
 
 The Liverpool docks are very many, among 
 which I may name a few, viz : The Victoria, 
 Albert, Princess, Waterloo, Clarence, Brunswick, 
 Bramley-moore, Nelson, Trafalgar, St. George 
 and Salthouse, all of which are said to be the 
 finest and most substantial in the world. They 
 extend in a direct line for a distance of eight 
 miles, and are constructed of massive hewn stone, 
 enclosed within lofty walls, which have wnde 
 
25 6 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 entrance gates, and have accommodation within 
 these walls for wares and merchandise in lofty I 
 fire proof storehouses on a very extensive scale. " 
 
 There are also very extensive and similarly 
 constructed docks at Birkenhead, directly oppo- 
 site Liverpool, a place rapidly increasing in size 
 and population, which will no doubt in the 
 course of time become a second Liverpool. 
 
 Liverpool can also boast of a few very fine 
 public buildings. First is the St. George's Hall, 
 the most magnificent building of the whole; it 
 resembles very much the Church of the Made- 
 line, at Paris, having massive Corinthian columns 
 and broad flights of stone steps around the 
 entire building, and it is the only structure of 
 note that has been erected in the town, on a site 
 where it can be viewed to advantage. Next in 
 style of architecture are the Exchange, General 
 Post Office and Custom House, and lastly, the 
 Sailors' Home, quite an imposing structure and 
 a blessing to the often too good natured Tar, 
 wherein he is perfectly safe from the land sharks 
 w4io generally infest large sea ports. " A friend 
 in need is a friend indeed," for such can be truly 
 said of the Liverpool Sailors' Home, wherein the 
 venturesome and frequently victimized mariner 
 can find shelter and protection, with the free use 
 of books and nautical instruments to occupy his 
 leisure hours and improve his mind. 
 
 I must now, for the time has at last arrived for us 
 to bid the " Mother Country" a long farewell, and 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 257 
 
 once more tread the decks of an ocean steamer. . 
 I will therefore omit speaking of England and 
 the characteristics of the people generally, 
 especially as my readers have had frequent 
 opportunities of judging of them for themselves. 
 Indeed, an Englishman and a Frenchman are so 
 well known to the world that it would be super- 
 fluous on my part to attempt to describe either of 
 them. 
 
 On the 1 2th of September we embarked on 
 board the royal mail steamship " Peruvian," 
 Captain Ballantine, for Quebec via Londonderry, 
 and steamed out of the Mersey late at night 
 against a strong breeze of wind, which soon 
 increased to a gale, and that from precisely the 
 wrong point of the compass. 
 
 The next day, when nearing Moville, and close 
 into the Irish coast, we were fortunate in obtain- 
 ing a good sight of the renowned Giant's Cause- 
 way, and had the pleasure of passing close to 
 the good ship " Hibernia," of the anchor line, 
 the very ship that brought us safely from New 
 York to the Emerald Isle. She was then enj'onte 
 on her trip from New York to Glasgow, after 
 having touched at Derry to land passengers. 
 Glad were we to meet her, and to wave our 
 handkerchiefs to the very gentlemanly and social 
 Captain and his officers, who done so much for our 
 comfort and catered so much for our pleasure and 
 amusement, whereby the monotony of a tedious 
 and rough sea voyage was very much lessened. 
 
258 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 .Both Captains were old acquaintances and 
 recognized each other, and passed the usual 
 compliments by dipping their respective colors 
 in token of respect, soon after which the heavy 
 engines of the " Peruvian " were stopped, for we 
 were off the village of Moville, ready to receive 
 the mails and passengers from Londonderry, 
 for which we were detained four hours. The 
 mails, forwarded during the night from London, 
 together with the passengers, at last arrived, 
 which occupied some considerable time in trans- 
 ferring from the small steamer which came along 
 side. The mail, consisting of about two hundred 
 sacks of letters and newspapers, Avere put on 
 board first, then the passengers, none of whom 
 were permitted to come on board before the 
 last mail bag was given in charge of the govern- 
 ment mail agent. " Keep back until the mail is 
 delivered," was the order given to the anxious pas- 
 sengers huddled together on tliedeck of the tender, 
 followed by the hasty and gruff remark, " Make 
 room! INLake room for the mail I" Thought I 
 to myself, as I leaned over the side of the ship 
 watching the transfer of Her Majesty's letter bags, 
 Mr. Mail is ^^ some pumpkins^'' and must be of 
 considerable more importance than the human 
 race. At last Mr, Mail was safely on board, and 
 the Messieurs passengers were allowed to leave 
 the little craft, whereon many were about half 
 sea sick. Then the ponderous engines were 
 again put in motion, and the stately vessel 
 
I 
 
 O'er the Atlantic. 259 
 
 *ded out towards the Atlantic against a strong 
 •ale of wind, and ere long many there were 
 mong us who, were inclined for anything else 
 han replenishing the stomach. Of all the 
 aaladies extant— if it may be so termed— 1 
 -erily believe from what I have witnessed, that 
 ;ea sickness is the worst. 
 
 Thinking that an account of the passage across 
 he ocean may not be very interesting to my 
 i-eaders, it being of about the same daily routine, 
 \ will omit giving a detailed account, and con- 
 ent mvself with stating that after a very stormy 
 oassage, during which the wind was " dead an 
 2nd," we, on the 20th of the month, sighted 
 Belie Isle, with several immense icebergs right 
 and left of us.* At 5 p. m. we passed through the 
 straits and exchanged signals with the light- 
 house keeper on that very barren, desolate and 
 weather-beaten island, where the world must be 
 to him almost a blank. On we sped, without 
 slackening speed, leaving him in his solitude, 
 and perhaps, as contented and happy as if ming- 
 ling with the gay and fashionable people in a 
 bustling city of the world. That night we 
 steamed along the coast of Labrador, heading 
 direct for the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and at 10 
 p. M. the next day we were in smooth water, 
 
 * Icebergs are known to be near long before they are 
 seen. Sailors say they smell them, especially when to 
 windward of the ship— a cold air is easily leit. 
 
2 6o O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 off the Island of Antacosta in the gulf. Quite a' 
 treat to all after the severe weather we had 
 encountered throughout, and the occasion wasj 
 rendered the more pleasing when evening came, 
 in witnessing that beautiful phenomenon the 
 northern light or aurora borealis, which so fre- 
 quently adorn those latitudes, and which were of 
 the brightest and most beautiful description. 
 
 We had a most pleasant time steaming up the 
 gulf, but on our arrival in the river St. Law- 
 rence we were detained off Father Point, where 
 the pilot came on board, for five hours, owing to 
 an accident to some part of the machinery, which 
 at last being repaired, we proceeded at a rapid 
 speed up the beautiful river, the scenery on 
 which, and that optical illusion the mirage, 
 ahead and astern of the ship, was beautiful to 
 behold. 
 
 On the afternoon of the 23d we were running 
 along the Island of Orleans, a few miles below 
 Quebec, with the citadel of the city to be seen in 
 the distance ; and at 8 p. m. the " Peruvian" got 
 into her dock, making the passage from Liver- 
 pool under the most unfavorable circumstances 
 in eleven days, of which the following is her log, 
 givmg the latitude and longitude, and distance 
 run each day : 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 261 
 
 Date. 
 
 ' Lat. 
 [o p. M. Sept. i2j ^ 3 
 
 i4!55 55 12 15 
 
 Lon. iMiles. 
 W. i 
 
 o — • 
 
 Cfq 3 
 
 56 19 
 
 17155 29 
 
 18,54 19 
 
 19153 25 
 
 19 41 
 27 50 
 35 46 
 42 33 
 47 33 
 
 20J52 07153 47 
 
 I I 
 
 21:50 I7i59 " 
 
 ' ! I 
 
 22i49 2465 20| 
 
 Distance run, 
 
 190 
 191 
 
 250 
 
 274 
 270 
 
 245 
 
 •185 
 
 245 
 
 250 
 270 
 
 288 
 2658 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Left Liverpool, 
 
 Arrived at Moville. 
 
 Blowing hard and much 
 sea. 
 
 More moderate. 
 
 Blowing very hard. 
 
 More moderate. 
 
 Wind increasing. 
 
 Severe gale and head 
 sea. 
 
 More moderate— among 
 icebergs — very cold — 
 made Belle Isle. 
 
 Calm— in the Gulf of 
 St. Lawrence. 
 
 Pleasant, mild weather 
 going up St. Law- 
 rence, many ships in 
 company. 
 
 Arrived at Quebec 7 
 p. M. 
 
 Contrary winds whole 
 passage. 
 
 The '' Peruvian" is owned by the Montreal 
 Ocean Royal Mail Steamship Company, is a 
 large vessel of great power, and an excellent 
 sea boat; but I must say that the officers of the 
 ship are not of that kind which officered the 
 " Hibernia," of the anchor line, on our passage 
 to Europe. The latter were kind, sociable and 
 agreeable, and the former quite the reverse, 
 unkind, unsociable and disagreeable, the Captain 
 a regular old salt, blunt, uncourteous and undig- 
 nified in his manner and conversation, but a 
 good sailor no doubt. So we left the good ship 
 "Peruvian" without a single regret, and were 
 
262 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 quickly driven to our hotel, named the St. Louis, 
 where we were well entertained. In my next I 
 will give an account of Quebec, the passage up 
 the river to Montreal, &c. 
 
O'er the Atlantic, 263 
 
 LETTER XXIX. 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 OuEBEC— The next morning after we arrived 
 in "this remarkable city, erected on a hill, we 
 hired a caleche (carriage), and proceeded to see 
 the city and its environs, driving first to see the 
 Citadel, which is erected on the summit over- 
 looking the Plains of Abram and the country lor 
 many miles on both sides of the river. 
 
 On our arrival within the massive walls and 
 ponderous gates of bar and chain, we were taken 
 in charge by one of the guard, then off duty, and 
 politely shown everything that was interesting 
 to strangers. 
 
 A delightful view is obtained from the ram- 
 parts of the city beneath, with its narrow and 
 intricate streets, of the entrance to the harbor, 
 with Point Levi and the Island of Orleans m the 
 distance, as also of the naval and mercantile 
 ships at anchor, and moored alongside their 
 docks. There we stood looking directly down 
 upon their decks, enabled to observe every move- 
 ment made by the officers and crews under their 
 
264 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 command while performing their work. It was 
 on that spot stood the Prince of Wales, w4ien on 
 a visit to Quebec some years previous, a stone 
 having the Crown and Feathers, with the motto, 
 '' Ich Dien" over his name aad date inscribed, 
 marks the spot in commemoration of the 
 event, and away to our right and near by was 
 the steep rock or cliff w^here fell General Mont- 
 gomery, during the French and English struggle 
 for possession. An old sign, very much obliter- 
 ated by the action of the w^eather, announces the 
 fatal circumstance in a few words : " Here fell 
 Montgomery," etc. 
 
 Leaving the Citadel, we proceed to the Plains 
 of Abram, whereon was fought the great battle 
 so fatal to the French, and which was gained by 
 the British at a great sacrifice, counting among 
 their slain the brave and accomplished General 
 Wolfe. A monument of no mean pretensions is 
 erected on the spot w^here he breathed his last, 
 just as victory croAvned the day. 
 
 When a boy serving my apprenticeship at 
 sea, I made a few voyages from Wales to 
 Quebec. It was about the years 1840-41, upon 
 which occasion I visited the Plains of Abram. 
 At that time Wolfe's monument was simply a 
 round stone pillar of perhaps, including its base, 
 ten feet high, inscribed, " Here died Wolfe." It 
 had, and was then undergoing daily a great deal 
 of abuse, caused by children and thoughtless 
 persons throwing stones at it until at last the 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 265 
 
 government erected, at a considerable outlay, the 
 present more appropriate and handsome struc- 
 ture which, like its plain and unassuming prede- 
 cessor has, I regret to state, already been very 
 much defaced from the same cause. The vast 
 plain of those days has undergone great change, 
 for very little of it is left but that has been 
 occupied by buildings of various kinds. Apart 
 from this change, Quebec seemed to me to have 
 scarcely changed its appearance, unless it was for 
 the worse. The Lower Town, in the neighborhood 
 of the shipping, had improved none, and the 
 buildings along Champlain street were in the 
 last stages, with but few exceptions, of rot and 
 decay, while the street was in a filthy and danger- 
 ous condition. But I must away and conduct 
 my readers to the Falls of Montmorency, to 
 which we drove from the Plains, passing on our 
 way through a portion of the burned district, 
 which lies between the upper part of the city and 
 the Falls, and which was consumed by the 
 disastrous conflagration of about three years ago 
 a circumstance many of my readers will undoubt- 
 edly recollect, especially as it occurred about the 
 same time as that equally disastrous fire which 
 partially devastated Portland, Maine, causing 
 tens of thousands of the inhabitants of both 
 places to seek shelter from the fiery element 
 in the streets, as it spread and traveled from house 
 to house, like the waves of the ocean, seeking 
 all it could devour. 
 
 L 
 
266 O^er the Atlantic, 
 
 An hours' drive brought us into the neighbor- 
 hood of the Falls; but ere we could proceed to 
 view them, the proprietor of the grounds adjoin- 
 ing demanded of us the usual entry fee — one 
 quarter of a dollar each^ which we paid with any-- 
 thing but good grace. 
 
 On our arrival at the splash of water, we found 
 that the river directly over the Falls had at one 
 time been spanned by a suspension bridge of 
 some importance. Portions of the pillars and 
 some pieces of chain still remained ; but a 
 terrible tale is told of its treachery, which is this: 
 A man, accompanied with his wife, seated in a 
 buggy, were one day crossing the bridge when,, 
 horrible to relate, the chains suddenly gave way,. 
 and the bridge, and its living freight, were carried 
 over the Falls and thrown headlong into the- 
 boiling cauldron below, and strange to say, not a; 
 vestige of the remains of man, woman or horse 
 nor carriage were ever found. 
 
 Before going to see the Falls of Montmorency, 
 ask yourself, have I seen those of Niagara ? If 
 in the affirmative, dont go. If in the negative, 
 go. For the line of comparison is so great that 
 Montmorency, although higher — being 250 feet 
 \i\g\\ — dwindles into insignificance when seen by 
 those who have witnessed Niagara. The writer 
 had not seen the latter, but after having done so, 
 he almost lost all recollection of the beauty and 
 grandeur of the former. 
 
 Retracing our way back to Quebec, we could 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 26 ^ji 
 
 not but recognize the similarity in the construc- 
 tion of the dwellings with those of France, and 
 everything aroivnd; thieni was a la Johnny Crapeau^ 
 and the inhabitants speak a mongrel French. 
 
 Before taking our departure for Montreal we 
 visited several places of intere^ within the citv 
 walls, a brief account of whicliy as also of the 
 city's history, may not be imunteresting to many 
 of my readers. 
 
 Quebec at one time, and indeed but irereuthv 
 was the capital of the Canadas, and has a p)0>pii- 
 lation of probably 50,000 inhabitants'.. It iis-, 
 divided into two parts, known as the Upper andl 
 Lower Towns. It was taken from the French im 
 1629 by the British, but restored to them in 1632,, 
 and was again captured by the British in 1759,. 
 when Wolfe commanded on the Plains of 
 Abram, by which victory the city, with all the 
 French possessions in North America, were ceded 
 to Great Britain at the peace of 1763. 
 
 The Public Gardens, where stands a monu- 
 ment erected in 1827 to the memory of Wolfe 
 and Montcalm, is in the Upper Town. The 
 monument in its early days was no doubt beauti- 
 ful, but now has a somewhat weather beaten 
 appearance. From Durham Terrace, where form- 
 erly stood the old castle of St. Louis, which was 
 destroyed by fire in 1834, a splendid view of the 
 river and Lower Town can be obtained. 
 
 The Place d' Armas is an open piece of ground 
 around which the old chateau of St. Lous, the 
 
268 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 Government offices, the English Cathedral and 
 the Court House are located. 
 
 The line of fortifications enclosing the Citadel 
 and the Upper Town is nearly three miles in 
 length, mounted with very heavy guns, mostly 
 48 pounders. There are five gates to the city, 
 named Prescott, Palace, Hope, St. Louis and 
 St. John, and fronting the Plains of Abram are 
 four Martello Towers, to impede the advance of 
 an enemy from that direction. 
 
 There are four Catholic Churches in the city, 
 viz : The Roman Catliolic Cathedral, which con- 
 tains some fine paintings by the old masters, the 
 St. Patrick's Cathedral, St. Rock's Church and 
 the Church of Notre Dame Des Victores. 
 The latter is one of the oldest buildings in the 
 city, but none of them have any pretensions to 
 architectural beauty; as also a great many Protes- 
 tant Churches, of which the English Cathedral 
 is the handsomest and will seat about 4000 per- 
 sons ; there are besides very many public build- 
 ings, which include the Barracks, General Hos- 
 pital, QuebecUniversity, the Jail, Marine Hospital 
 and City Hall or Court House. 
 
 There are a great many sights to be seen in 
 and around Quebec, but it would occupy several 
 days to do so ; but being while there almost I 
 may say in the neighborhood of home, we were 
 anxious to get away, so had to forego the further 
 pleasure of rambling about, and take passage in 
 the beautiful and fast river steamboat, " Quebec," 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 269 
 
 at 6 p. M. oil the next day after our arrival, and 
 proceeded up the river to Montreal. The accom- 
 modations on this truly elegant boat were mag- 
 nificent, and the charges, which included fare, 
 supper and stateroom, very moderate indeed. 
 
 At 6 A. M. the next morning, the long Victoria 
 Bridge across the river at Montreal, appeared in 
 sight, and soon afterwards the city, Avhich we 
 reached about 6:30. We were driven to the St. 
 Lawrence Hall, which we made our headquarters 
 during our stay there. 
 
 The trip from Quebec being made during the 
 night, prevented us from making notes to remark 
 upon the score of towns and villages which are 
 situated along the banks of the river, as also of 
 the islands, rapids and beautiful scenery, which I 
 was informed are very much to be admired. 
 
2 7© O'ey the Atlantic. 
 
 LETTER XXX. 
 
 CANADA, CONTINUED, 
 
 Montreal.— Montreal is the laro;est and most 
 populous city in Canada, bounded on one side by 
 the river Ottawa, and on the other by the St. 
 Lawrence, and in connection with steamer and 
 rail, it has become the commercial metropolis of 
 British North America. 
 
 It was founded in 1642, and for a longtime 
 bore the name of Ville Marie. In 1763 the 
 English came into possession, by force of arms, at 
 which time it was surrounded by a wall, a ditch, 
 fort and citadel, and the French made it the 
 headquarters of their army. 
 
 Fifty years of industry, enterprise and labor 
 have done much to enlarge and beautify the old 
 city; for the old French style of houses and nar- 
 row streets have succumbed to those of more 
 modern structure and architectural beauty ; and 
 to-day, with Mount Royal in the back ground, 
 covered with elegant villas, I must say that it 
 makes a beautiful appearance. 
 
 The quay wall for the accommodation of 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 271 
 
 shipping is upwards of a mile in length, and is 
 built of excellent stone, where ocean steamers and 
 sailing vessels of large burthen, discharge and 
 receive freight, and at that point terminated 
 the voyage of the " Peruvian," reaching there 
 in the evening of the day of our arrival. 
 
 I will now proceed to give an account of the 
 places we visited during our short stay in the 
 city, and what we saw that was interesting and 
 pleasing to the sight. 
 
 As we landed from the floating palace our 
 attention was soon attracted to the fine and 
 imposing buildings fronting us — the Market 
 and Town Hall, the lower floor of which is the 
 market place, and the upper is occupied as city 
 offices and a large concert hall, which will seat 
 4,000 persons. 
 
 On Jacques Cartier Square is a monument 
 erected to the memory of Admiral Lord Nelson, 
 aijid a little way to the left is the Court House, a 
 vye.ry fiijie building. 
 
 ^p.the Place d' Armes are some very elegant 
 buiidiags,, ^n,i9ng which is the Cathedral of 
 Notre Dame., which will hold .10,000 people — n9 
 doubt the largest church, as it is claimed to be, 
 on the American continent. 
 
 It struck me very much that tlie place was a 
 second Brooklyn, for the whole neighborhood is 
 studded with churches of various sects, com- 
 prising Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Methodist 
 and a host of others — not even omitting that 
 
272 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 peculiar sect of which Brother Brigham is the 
 Apostolic General. But of all those we entered 
 I found that of the Jesuits to be the most 
 imposing, and as to the interior, it is finished in 
 the most elaborate style with frescoes of inci- 
 dents in the lives of our Saviour and his Apostles, 
 This church, no doubt, as the Cathedral of Notre 
 Dame is the largest, is the finest and most elabo- 
 rate of all churches in North America. 
 
 While being driven from place to place, our 
 attention was called to a very unassuming looking 
 dwelling, wherein we were informed was domi- 
 ciled the once notorious but now almost forgotten 
 Jefferson Davis, ex-President of the once Con- 
 federate States of America. How glad I would 
 have been to have seen the man himself; but in 
 that w^e w^ere unfortunate. The individual who 
 battled for years to no purpose but that of devas- 
 tation and ruin was not to be seen. 
 
 A few remarks about the great Victoria Bridge 
 e'er I take my leave of Montreal, and I will 
 accompany the reader farther up the river St. 
 Lawrence. 
 
 The bridge is a wonderful structure, on the 
 tubular principle, resting upon twenty-four piers, 
 is a mile and a quarter long, and over it is the 
 great line of traffic Avith the United States. It 
 cost upwards of $7,000,000, and Avas built by Mr. 
 James Hodges, under the direction of that cele- 
 brated Engineer, Mr. Robert Stevenson. 
 
 After parting with my better half^ who was 
 
O'er the Atlantic . 273 
 
 joing to take rail direct for New York, and 
 )idding adieu to an old companion dit voyage^ a Mr. 
 Dunn, of Manchester, England, (as good a 
 oul as ever crossed the Atlantic), who had 
 :ome to Montreal in connection with his busi- 
 less, as master machinist, I took passage on 
 Doard the steamer " Kingston" for Toronto, in 
 company with Lieut. Whittaker, of Her Majesty's 
 53d Regiment,* and a Mr. Wolfe, of London, 
 England, also fellow passengers, per " Peruvian," 
 md proceeded up the river, avoiding the turbulent 
 rapids by passing through canals erected at 
 •an immense expense. 
 
 \ We soon arrived at the village of Lachine, 
 I below which is the swift and turbulent rapids, 
 jafter a short stay, proceeded on our way; and 
 
 i although it was the latter part of September, it 
 was cold and cheerless enough in the country we 
 passed through for January — a terrible cold 
 country to live in, no doubt, especially in mid- 
 winter. 
 
 On our way we passed through the following 
 
 canals, so as to avoid the various rapids : Lachine, 
 
 j Cedars, Beauharnois, Cornwall, Farren's Point, 
 
 Rapid Piatt, Point Iroquois and Gallop, in all 
 
 about fifty miles long. A very tedious time we 
 
 ' had while steaming at a remarkably slow speed 
 
 j through the narrow water bed and intricate 
 
 *This young gentleman was killed in Quebec by the 
 brother of a young lady, who he had, it was said, seduced. 
 
274 O'^f i^^^ Atlantic. 
 
 locks ; but after getting through them, we were 
 delighted witli the scenery which the beautiful 
 river afforded us the next day. 
 
 The first place of any note the steamer stopped 
 at was Prescott, opposite which, on the " Yankee 
 side" of the river, as I heard my fellow passen- 
 gers say, is Ogdensburgh, a very flourishing 
 town, and of far more importance than its neigh- 
 bor Prescott. It has of late become better known 
 as the point from which the Fenians have 
 attempted frequent raids on the British Posses- 
 sions. 
 
 Prescott, on the Canadian side, is a small 
 town of about 3,000 inhabitants ; and, in my 
 opinion, is one of the last places that I can think 
 of that I would like to reside in. A more miser- 
 able, dilapidated looking place is but seldom 
 seen. The old Windmill near the town is the 
 place wherein the '• Patriots" under Von Sultz, a 
 Polish exile, established themselves in 1837, but 
 from which they were driven w4th severe loss. 
 
 A couple of hours after leaving Prescott we 
 were steaming among tlie " Thousand Islands," 
 which are the wonders of the St. Lawrence. A 
 thousand is no name for them, for I was told by 
 the Captain of the steamer, (by the way, a very 
 agreeable and sociable man), that there are very 
 near double that number. A most beautiful 
 sight are those islands of various sizes, viewed 
 as the steamer wends her way through the chan- 
 nels which separate one from the other, the pic- 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 275 
 
 turesque Martello towers and light houses 
 erected on several, give them an additional charm, 
 and serve as landmarks to the ever watchful 
 pilot. 
 
 Immediately after passing through the islands 
 we were on Lake Ontario, and the boat soon 
 afterwards was alongside her wharf at Kingston, 
 where we stayed two hours, affording me 
 sufficient time to visit a few places, of which you 
 shall read in my next. 
 
 Kingston. — Immediately on my arrival here I 
 proceeded to the British American Hotel, kept 
 by an old friend, M. B. White, late of Carbon- 
 dale, Pa., who was taken by surprise, but very 
 glad to see me, and done all he could to make my 
 short stay pleasant and agreeable. 
 
 It was Agricultural Fair w^eek in Kingston, 
 and my friend drove me out to the grounds 
 w^hereon it was held. It seemed to be conducted 
 with much spirit and enterprise, and the stock on 
 exhibition was worth seeing. 
 
 Kingston was founded by the French just a 
 century before the British came into possession, 
 w^ho changed its name from Fort Frotenac to that 
 of its present title. 
 
 A very pretty little town is Kingston, situate 
 as it is on the margin of the great lake. There 
 are but few if any places on the banks of that 
 immense sheet of water that can compare favor- 
 ably with it. It is delightfully situated, well 
 laid out, is one of the most important military 
 
276 O'er the Atlantic 
 
 posts in Canada, and has a population of about 
 12,000 inhabitants. 
 
 I spent a pleasant time in the company of my 
 friend, who introduced me to several of his 
 acquaintances, among whom was a distinguished 
 member of the Canadian Government, Sir. J. A. 
 MacDonald, a very plain and unassuming gentle- 
 man, who was pleased to make my acquaintance, 
 and treated me wnth much courtesy and respect. 
 
 The boat was to leave Kingston at 6 p. m., and 
 I had much difficulty in tearing myself away 
 from my old friend, who was very desirous to 
 have me stay with him a week, but I was anxious 
 j| to get home to my family, so thanking him for his 
 kind attention and promising to pay him another 
 visit during the ensuing summer,* I took my leave 
 and embarked on board the steamer just as she 
 was on the point of leaving. That night we 
 steamed over the beautiful lake, an ocean in 
 itself, with scarcely an air of wind or a ripple to 
 mar our progress, and the next day we arrived 
 at 
 
 Toronto. — This is a quite a city, it was form- 
 erly called Little York. In fifty years its popu- 
 lation has increased from 1,000 to 60,060, and 
 at that rate of increase, its population in a few 
 ! years will be second to none in the British 
 Provinces. 
 
 * Wr. White sold out before the " ensuing summer " and 
 returned to Carbondale, 
 
. O'er the Atlanhc. 277 
 
 The Grand Trunk Railway passes through the 
 :ity, which adds much, coupled with its lake 
 aavigation, to its commerce. The former in 
 itself is a connecting link with every place of 
 'importance in the New Dominion. There are 
 several fine buildings there, among which is the 
 churcli of the Holy Trinity, erected at the expense 
 of an English gentleman at an immense outlay, 
 on condition of the free use of seats ; and I was 
 informed that the main street is forty miles long^ 
 i. e. I suppose it reaches into the country for 
 forty miles, with dwellings along the route as 
 few as "angels visits." 
 
 Leaving Toronto I proceeded by rail via Ham- 
 ilton to Niagara Falls, where I spent only two 
 hours, which scarcely gave me sufficient time to 
 view the world renowned Falls, and the great 
 Suspension Bridge, Avhich at one time was the 
 marvel of the age. 
 
 From Niagara I took the cars for Buffalo, 
 thence over the Erie road for Great Bend, con- 
 necting there with the D. L. & W. R. R. for 
 Scranton, which I reached the next morning, and 
 that afternoon arrived at my residence in West 
 Pittston, where there was much joy at my safe 
 arrival home. I found my family in the enjoy- 
 ment of good health, and eager to know all that 
 had transpired during an absence of four months, 
 and here ends my voyage to Europe ! 
 
278 O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 CONCLUDING REMARKS. 
 
 Perhaps my readers would be pleased to have 
 my opinion upon Europe generally, or in other 
 words draw a line of comparison between the 
 old and new world. 
 
 England and the other coun^ries that T visited 
 are as much ahead of America in some instances 
 as the latter is of them in others. At present we 
 lack the permanency and stability which greets 
 the e3'e of the American when in Europe, for 
 instance, buildings, bridges, railroads and other 
 structures, the handiwork of man, are con" 
 structed as if to last for ages untold ; but in 
 America how different, we are a " fast people," 
 fast in all our doings, constructing and erecting in 
 a few months that which would take double, nay 
 treble the time on the other side of the Atlantic ; 
 we build for the present and not for the future, 
 also, the American says, "time is money, labor is 
 x^expensive," and he is in a hurry to realize from 
 the investment, a large per centage, for the 
 principal from which it is derived is not going to 
 last long. With the European it is otherwise, 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 279 
 
 time is no consideration, not because labor is 
 cheap, acting as an apology for time, but because 
 the durability of the investment is a sure guar- 
 antee of a handsome return, at a moderate per 
 centage ere the principal crumbles to decay ; 
 therefore in my opinion, to be a "cent wise and 
 a dollar foolish" is poor policy. Let us emulate 
 the Mother country in the works of permanency 
 and durability, and our capatalists will soon find 
 the vast benefits to be derived from that which 
 has been well done, besides being a great protec- 
 tion to life and capital. 
 
 So let us hope that when our country has 
 existed as a nation for centuries, for it is in its 
 youth as yet, that it wnll be as thorough and perma- 
 nent in every respect, if not more so, than any 
 other country on the globe. 
 
 But again, America can crow^ louder than 
 Europe, in catering for the comfort and conve- 
 nience of her people ; for as I have had occasion 
 to remark during wvy voyage, our hotel, saloon and 
 traveling system is a century ahead of theirs, our 
 steamboats and railway cars are moving palaces 
 w^hen compared to the dirty, confined and badly 
 ventilated little river and channel steamboats 
 whicli ply in British waters, and the horrid passen- 
 ger cars (cattle boxes I may almost say), which 
 traverse British railways, then their baggage or 
 " luggage" system is abominable, the traveler is 
 always " in a sweat" about his trunks, for which 
 he has received no checks., and which he is con- 
 
28o O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 tiniially looking and inquiring for on his arrival 
 at stations where he has to change carriages. 
 Picture in your imagination the foreigner, per- 
 haps unable to speak the language, endeavoring 
 to single out his baggage, followed by half 
 dozen begging railway porters, who condescend 
 to remove it for him in consideration of back- 
 seesh, and who, after the traveler has taken his 
 seat in the carriage, walk up to the carriage 
 door, makes a rustic bow by tugging at the hair 
 of his head, and remarking with a winning 
 smile and a grin, " Ma-ster, you'l find your low- 
 gage zur on top of saventh or aighth carrage 
 forard, yez zur," followed by another tug, smile 
 and a grin, then is handed him a piece of coin 
 which he slyly accepts with a ''thankee' zur.'' 
 vSo are you pestered throughout your journey, 
 always in charge and responsible for your own 
 baggage, for which you have to pay fleecing 
 porters in the employ of the company, or run 
 the risk of having it left behind. 
 
 There is a vast difference in the style of living 
 between Europeans and Americans generally, 
 which in part may be attributed to our Republi- 
 can Institutions, and to the amount paid for 
 labor, for the United States classes far ahead of 
 all Europe in giving compensation for labor; for 
 instance, a good artisan will obtain here from 
 three to five dollars per day, while in Great 
 Britain, a person possessing the same ability will 
 receive from three shillings and sixpence to seven 
 
O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 281 
 
 shillings and sixpence per day,* and in France 
 from three to five francs per day. In Germany, 
 S^vitzerland and Russia the average is much 
 lower, indeed, I may say, almost a mere pittance 
 in comparison even with France. 
 
 Having obtained the daily necessaries of life, 
 the Europeans, /. e. the laboring class, leave the 
 style of dress, the extreme of fashion, to persons 
 of wealth and position, and are content with a 
 less unpretending style, indeed, I may say, that 
 they generally adopt the primitive costumes, 
 leaving even an attempt at fashion to the middle 
 classes, or men and women in business, clerks, 
 &c., who put it on very sparingly. 
 
 A servant girl who would ape her mistress 
 with white satin bonnet trimmed with flowers, 
 and a heap of hair as large as a peck measure, 
 with veil, parasol and flounced dress, would 
 - be laughed and jeered at in the street for pre- 
 suming to ape her betters. They are expected 
 invariably to dress befitting their station in life. 
 Then so far as dieting is concerned, in par- 
 taking of the necessaries to sustain life, they are 
 very frugal, seldom or ever partaking but the 
 plainest of food and no variety. Very simple 
 fare indeed is that generally made use of. It 
 takes but very little to sustain life if we but par- 
 take of that only which is beneficial to health. 
 To be 'temperate in all things is the true phi- 
 
 * Laborers get from los. to 15s. per week, and farm labor- 
 ers less than that even. 
 
^^^ O'er the Atlantic. 
 
 losophy of living. Would I could say as much 
 of Americans, but I cannot. There is more truth 
 than fiction in the remark, "We eat fast, drink 
 tast, work fast and die fast." 
 
 That we are degenerating, physically, both 
 ,male and female, especially the latter, there is 
 jbut h^tle doubt, who need more— shall I say 
 .exercise .^ Then would they come forth with the 
 it^lpom of health mantling their cheeks, and a 
 ifirm step, denoting sound health, comfort and 
 )l^,app;ii^ess.— In Europe a young lady immedi- 
 ately after n^iarriage is anxious^t^p enter upon her 
 liousehold duties, so that she may^how how skill- 
 ful she is in the various duties ;JiL,ppertaining to ! 
 the kitchen and laundry. To go .^.nd board in 
 a hotel or elsewhere, would be considered by a 
 married couple the greatest of absurdities. 
 
 ^ must now draw these remarks to a close, and 
 T^t^r>K^.t that I have said nothing herein to dis- 
 ^please.^^iiy of my fair readers, but trust the facts 
 lA^^rrate^'.w^.ill be accepted in the spirit they are 
 -^X^tQifi—fprdheir benefit. 
 
Appendix. 
 
 I TO TOURISTS AND OTHERS. 
 
 As little or nothing has been said in the preceding pages 
 aching the expense and manner of traveling to and in 
 rirope, 1 would respectfully submit the following pertinent 
 I marks to the consideration of those who may at some 
 jcure time have occasion to visit that country: 
 There are but few, in proportion of the thousands who go 
 Europe yearly from this country, who have not to study 
 onomy (more or less), during the journey. I shall there- 
 re confine myself in the few remarks I am about to make, 
 ore particularly to that subject. 
 
 To make a voyage to Europe in these days is not that 
 hich it wastwenty years ago and upwards. In those days 
 seemed as quite .an undertaking, and it took a person of 
 I ore than ordinary J3,evve when not compelled to go to 
 ladertake it. Months werjs occupied by persons in making 
 ip. their minds. to; undertake ;a .long and perilous voyage, for 
 .frequently took as many weeks .as it now takes days to 
 scomplish.the passage. Very extqns.iv^e preparations were 
 mdc, friends and acquaintances talked ,of it, as if they 
 <ene me-ver to meet again, and when the time came to depart 
 , ley assembled araund the voyager to bid him farewell, with 
 loistened eyes and hearts too full for utterance,. as though 
 ley were committing his body to the deep ; but now in the 
 ays of steamships, of the most approved build, with engines 
 f immense power, which, when once put in' motion in the 
 
'hi 
 
 284 Appendix. 
 
 bay of New York, never cease working* until the ship 
 arrival in an European port. 
 
 Indeed, a voj'age to and from Europe, has ceased to 1 
 thought of as anything extraordinary outside the dai 
 occurrences of life. A person makes up his mind to-d; 
 and is gone to-morrow.f Thousands upon thousands of 01 
 people yearly, from the millionaire and merchant prince, 
 the laboring man, cross the great Atlantic highway withoiV, 
 scarcely giving it a thought. All the world and their wive 
 go, some on business, others on pleasure, and manv to vis 
 relatives and friends ; but to the point. 
 
 Having made up your mind to go, it is not necessary yo 
 should make any preparation outside of setting " yoi 
 house in order," i. e. if you are in business, arrange that 
 much as possible to your satisfaction, insure your life, an 
 lastly, if you have anything to leave, make your will, for no 
 withstanding the short time it takes to go and come, there 
 still more or less danger attached to the voyage, of which w 
 have had of late, I am sorry to say, abundant cvideni 
 Yet withal, we are as liable and are frequently called awa 
 from off terra firma as suddenly as those who make th, 
 ocean their temporary home. A small trunk or valise, larg 
 enough to contain an extra suit of clothes, a Scotch cai 
 half a dozen shirts, half a dozen pair of socks, with th 
 necessary under garments, a pair of slippers, and you 
 toilet articles, together with a shawl or overcoat on your arn 
 is all you need, for when you arrive in Europe you ca 
 purchase clothing of very superior quality for at least ha 
 the price you can here. There is no doubt of this even wit 
 our currency at par. I advise from experience, for purchas 
 
 * There are exceptions, but they are very rare. Night ani 
 day are they kept going until arrival of the ship in port. 
 
 f A friend of the author's left the port of New York upo 
 two or three occasions, within a couple of hours after rnakini 
 up his mind to go. 
 
Appendix. 285 
 
 u will when you get there, so be content with a small and 
 iifFerent wardrobe when starting. 
 
 As regards the amount of money necessary to pay the 
 penses of, sav a three months trip, with gold as it is now, 
 I 15, I would estimate the amount at $500 in gold, which 
 ,m would be amplv sufficient to enable any respectable 
 ^rson to make the trip we did in a pleasant and comfort- 
 Die manner, which would include cabin passage to and 
 \ * hotels, railway fares, incidental expenses, and a decent 
 ■!ipplv of necessary articles of clothing and souvenirs, with 
 Ihich sum procure a letter of credit of Brown Bros., New 
 '' ork, on Brown, Shipley & Co., of London, or any other 
 'Sspectable house ot the kind, for its equivalent in pounds 
 • erling, the safest and best, as well as most convenient 
 "ivestment a traveler can make, for it entitles him to draw 
 pom any bank such sums as he actually requires to carry 
 im from place to place, and at the same time the amount or 
 alances in the banker's hands is accruing interest. 
 
 Your passage money being paid, you are assigned a state 
 oom or berth on board the steamer, and you are ready to 
 jmbark. The hour having arrived for you to be on board, 
 ^ou are there, where perhaps every face you encounter is a 
 granger to you, and you feel amid the din and bustle on 
 Doard, where everything at the time is confusion, that you 
 ilmost repent the steps you have taken. The moorings are 
 oeing cast off, the pilot is in charge, and in a few minutes 
 the sliip is steaming down the bay, and in as many hours you 
 are on the blue Atlantic, far away from those you perhaps 
 >ove better than all the world beside. Then a change 
 comes over you. You feel depressed, heavy. You reel to 
 and fro. Wonder what is the matter. Ah ! my " fresh water 
 sailor," you are sea sick. Yes, very. Down you go to 
 
 * Per Inman, Anchor or National line of steamers, -AX first 
 class and inexpensive lines, commanded by experienced and 
 gentlemanly officers. A second cabin, intermediate or 
 Iteerage passage would decrease the cost in proportion ; 
 but the latter I would not recommend to any person. 
 
286 Appendix. 
 
 your berth, which you find with difficulty; and there lay 
 yourself down " more dead than alive," not caring whether 
 you survive or not, and wishing from the bottom of your 
 heart that you had remained on terra finna. But it is too 
 late, there are no back doors to run through, so you must 
 be content, and there I leave you for perhaps two or three 
 days. 
 
 You are now three days out. You are on deck, seated, 
 not walking, for as yet you have not your " sea legs" under 
 you. You "feel better, yes, much," and wish you "could 
 eat something ;" but alas, " cannot retain anything on your 
 stomach." There are none but your fellow passengers that 
 sympathise with you, all of whom, perhaps, are as sick as 
 yourself, for it is a common occurrence ; but day by day you 
 gain strength, and with it comes back your appetite, and by 
 the time you are on the banks off Newfoundland, you are- 
 perfectly well, have become acquainted with some congenial! 
 spirits and reconciled to your fate. Then, when weather 
 permits, follows the usual games, gotten up through the 
 kindness and courtesy of the officers, who know well how 
 to wile away the monotony of a voyage at sea. By and by 
 you strut up and down the quarter deck arm in arm with, 
 perhaps, one of the gentler sex, with the dignity of a son of 
 Neptune, forgetful of the past and hopeful of the future 
 Thus you go along from day to day avoiding all familiarity, 
 being simply courteous and polite to all you come in con- 
 tact with, till at last the ship has arrived at her port of des- 
 tination, and all is hurry and bustle to get on shore. Not 
 so with you. Take it coolly, there is time enough, for the 
 "last shall be first." You leave the ship in good time, 
 having, while apparently loitering, satisfied yourself by 
 inquiries made of several persons who have come on board, 
 Of a good, respectable second class hotel to sojourn at, by 
 which you have, notwithstanding your seeming tardiness, 
 gained time; 
 
 And now that you are safely over, a choice of route from 
 the point of debarkation (if the one we took will not suit). 
 
j Appendix. 287 
 
 'lust be left to yourself, which has to be governed by taste, 
 iioney and time. But go wherever you may, there is no 
 xcuse for you putting up unless you desire it, at first-class 
 nd expensive hotels, for in Europe, especially in Great 
 Jritain, you can get very superior and select accommo- 
 ation, with every polite attention shown you, in plenty of 
 espectable hotels and coffee houses for one-third the cost 
 harged in the first-class hotels. For instance, and by way 
 )f comparison, read the following bills, both being served 
 o order : 
 
 THE FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 
 (style.) 
 
 Tea, 2s. 6d., supper, 2s., 
 
 Lodgings, 
 
 Breakfast, - - - - . • 
 
 Dinner, . . - - ■ 
 
 Attendance, . - - - • 
 
 Total per day, - - - - £0. i6s. od. 
 Without wine, which you are expected to call for (say 5s. 
 more), a sum equal to five dollars of American gold. 
 
 THE SECOND-CLASS HOTEL. 
 
 (comfort.) 
 
 Tea, (cold meat, ham or chops), .... Jo. is. 6d^ 
 
 Lodging, (good accommodation) is. 6d. 
 
 Breakfast, (fish, steak, chops, or ham and 
 
 eggs), ...---- ^ - - - - IS. 8di 
 
 Dinner, (roast and boiled meats, with vege- 
 tables, pastry, &c.), ------- 2s. od; 
 
 Total per day, ^o. 6s. 8d; 
 
 Add to the latter occasionally, a trifle for attendance and 
 a couple of glasses of ale, in all about one shilling additional; 
 
 There are, however, houses quite as respectably conducted, 
 that you can live at a much cheaper rate than even 6s 
 
 ^0. 
 
 4S. 
 
 2S. 
 
 3s. 
 
 6d. 
 6d. 
 od, 
 
 
 
 - 
 
 3s. 
 
 6d. 
 
 to 
 
 5S. 
 
 - 
 
 2S. 
 
 6d. 
 
 
 
ll 
 
 288 Appendix, 
 
 Sd. per day, or $1.50 of our American money.* I simply 
 quote prices of hotels that will compare favorably with first 
 and second-class American hotels. f 
 
 In Europe, like most countries, you will find plenty " on 
 the make," and as Americans are known to be very liberal,' 
 they are the more imposed upon. You might give, give all 
 day and to no purpose ; but be guided by your own good 
 judgment in that respect. When attendance is charged for 
 in the bill, I see no necessity of giving to servants, yet 
 they expect it, waiters especially. Cabs and omnibuses are 
 (juite an institution, and are conducted upon a system that 
 unless you are very stupid you cannot be overcharged, 
 carrying you for a very reasonable compensation to any 
 point you wish to go.:}: I wish I could say as much of the ' 
 cabs in the city of New York. 
 
 Then, while on the road, travel in a third-class passenger 
 car. You are perfectly safe and free from insult, and In- 
 doing so you save half the fare you would pay in a second- 
 class carriage, and two-thirds that you would have to pay- 
 in a first-class carriage ; and putting aside the style, the 
 luxury of, and riding more select, you ride a la Amoiquc, 
 lacking style and conveniences only, traveling equally as 
 fast as your fellow passengers who have the pleasure or 
 privilege of paying half or two-thirds more to travel by 
 the same train. Indeed, gentlemen of wealth, position and 
 refinement (unaccompanied by ladies), can be seen riding 
 daily in third-class carriages in (xreat Britain. The fares are 
 id., 2d. and 3d. per mile. In conclusion: Always look well 
 
 * Among which, especialh'^ in London, and other large 
 places, there are houses termed " Commercial Boarding 
 Hotels," or small unlicensed private hotels. Such houses 
 combine economy Avith the comforts of a home. 
 
 f Living on the Continent is much cheaper than in Great 
 Britain. 
 
 \ The laws regulating cab hire are very strict in London 
 and Paris, and are as strictly observed by the Jehus. 
 
Appendix. 289 
 
 to your baggage, if you have any apart from yourself, for there 
 is no system adopted like that in United States for the 
 transportation of baggage, and if heavy to handle you will 
 find it necessary to fee a railway porter occasionally, so as 
 to prevent it being left behind, especially at a point where 
 you have to change cars. And in France you have the 
 additional trouble of submitting it to be searched thoroughly 
 at the depot, your ticket too, where it has to go through 
 quite a quantity of red tape, apart from which I think the 
 baggagfe system preferable to that of Great Britain. 
 
 And now having said all that I deem necessary for the 
 guidance of those contemplating a trip to Europe, I will 
 lay my pen aside, and bid you a final adieu. 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
 M 
 
The Author's Address, 
 
 DELIVERED BEFORE THE " P. C. C," ON THE OCCASION OF HIS 
 
 RETURN FROM EUROPE, AND IN REPLY TO THE 
 
 FOLLOWING SENTIMENT : 
 
 " The health of Capt. Whyte and lady — may their recent 
 tour to the Old World, and their return to their family and 
 friends, be an epoch in their lives of continued happiness 
 and sweet reminiscences long to be remembered by them." 
 
 Worthy Chief and Clansmen of the Pittston Cale- 
 donia Club : I have no language sufficient tp express 
 myself on this occasion, for I feel somewhat deficient in 
 that, sometimes vulgarly called gab, and in the first place for 
 fear I may make a break down, permit me to thank you for 
 this very kind reception. A reception as flattering as it is 
 undeserving, for 1 am not aware of my having done any 
 thing to deserve so much of your notice, and although I 
 have not been in the habit of making speeches, /. e. speaking 
 in public — I must nevertheless in return for so much kind- 
 ness, do my endeavor to give you a brief account of my late 
 trip to Europe, but believe me, I would rather walk a mile 
 than talk a minute. 
 
 The 8th of June saw me leave this country, and after a 
 stormy passage of fourteen days I landed in Auld Ireland, a 
 country as green as that gem it is so often compared to ; 
 well may it be called the Emetald Isle for a beautiful and 
 picturesque country \s-£riii indeed, and her people a warm 
 hearted and generous race. I visited and passed through 
 many of the cities and towns of Ireland, among which I 
 
Appendix. '. 291 
 
 may name Londonderry, Belfast and Dublin, all of which 
 pleased me very much, but to give you an account of all I 
 saw in Ireland and elsewhere, is more of a task than I could 
 accomplish this evening, you must therefore excuse me from 
 dwelling at length on the beauty, industry, commerce and 
 habits, of various places and the people, and allow me to 
 cross the Irish channel into old Cymru. 
 
 Wales, Gwalia, land of my nativity, with its cloud- 
 capped hills and delightful vales, the land of mirth and 
 song, abounding with antiquities, sacred to the Briton's 
 heart, had undergone great and many changes ; indeed, such 
 had been the march of improvement that had it not been for 
 some old land marks still left, I would have scarcely believed 
 it to be the kind of my birth. Many dear relatives and old 
 friends had gone to their long home, and but few remained 
 to welcome him who had spent some twenty-eight years of 
 his life in foreign lands, but those few, who, like myself, had 
 been permitted to linger a little longer on this old planet, 
 vied with each other to make my sojourn among them as 
 pleasant and agreeable as possible. Oh ! how delightful it 
 was to meet and discourse with old friends, to wander over 
 spots where I had played in my youth, to visit the old church 
 yard wherein lay all that was once mortal of those so nearly 
 allied to me, and to survey with solemn thought and admi- 
 ration the castellated ruins of Cambria's ancient fortresses — 
 such was my enjoyment, that when the time came for me to 
 once more bid farewell to all, and to so much that was dear and 
 familiar to me, I could scarcely articulate the word " good 
 bye," Leaving Wales I went into 
 
 Old England, the land wherein my father first saw the 
 light, dear to me, if only for that reason. He was born in 
 the great city of London, now perhaps the largest city in the 
 world, commercially it certainly is. London with its Metro- 
 politan under ground railway, traversing through dark 
 labyrinths beneath its ever busy and thronged streets, and 
 spanning the great city with its i/iree million of inhabitants, 
 from east to west, is a marvel in itself; while such places as 
 
292 Appendix. 
 
 the British Museum with its hordes of antiquities, Westmin- 
 ster Abbey with its colossal monuments of various ages^ 
 National Gallery, with its beautiful pictures, the Tower with 
 its dungeons, cells and armory glittering with ancient and 
 modern instruments of war and torture, and other places o^ 
 much note must be seen to be appreciated. 
 
 While in England I visited many of its cities and towns, 
 for instance the great commercial cities of Manchester, Liv- 
 erpool and Bristol, and other places, seeing all that I deemed 
 worthy of note, and then crossed over channel to 
 
 France. — Landing at Dieppe, I proceeded direct to 
 Paris, the centre of Parisian life. Of France, I may truly say 
 that Paris is France. Commercially it is not, for there is but 
 little done in commerce, in proportion to the size and popu- 
 lation, but otherwise I may call it France. A wonderful city 
 is Paris, now claimed to be the finest city in the world, exter- 
 nally it may be, for with its broad avenues, public drives and 
 promenades, its public and lofty buildings of beautiful 
 architecture, white as marble, some of which arc gorgeous 
 with the spoils of war, it certainly is not only beautiful but 
 magnificent. I was fortunate enough to be there during the 
 Fetes de Napoleon, a national holiday like that of our Fourth 
 of July, upon which occasion the French people don their 
 best apparel and go in for lots of enjoyment, and the whole 
 city at night is brilliantly illuminated. The Champs Elysees, 
 which is the finest of the public drives or promenades, the 
 Place de la Coticorde, Place de Vendome, the Pt4e Rh'oliy the 
 gardens of the Tuilleries and other places, with their tens of 
 thousands of gas lights, shaded with red and white glass 
 globes, formed the most brilliant spectacle I ever witnessed 
 — it was fairy land on earth. 
 
 The Exposition, a decided success, is the most admirable 
 and well arranged building that the human mind could 
 possibly conceive for such a purpose, i. e. the interior, so 
 well arranged is it, that the visitor cannot fail to see all that 
 is on exhibition, and so far as products are concerned, every 
 civilized nation on the globe is represented there, yes, even 
 
Appendix. 293 
 
 in language, costume, habit and diet. For instance, in the 
 American Restaurant, a beautiful place, a la Ameriqtte, could 
 the indomitable Yankee hear his native tongue spoken 
 freely, dine on pork and beans, and assuage his thirst with 
 a gin cock tail, brandy smash, mint julep, sherry cobbler, or 
 with any of the multifarious cooling drinks out of one of 
 the most modern of American soda fountains. 
 
 Now a few words about the exterior of this great hidden 
 building. So insignificant is the appearance of it, that there 
 is no line of comparison to be drawn between it and that 
 erected in Hyde Park, London, in 185 1, evidence of which 
 can be seen at Sydenham to-day, the finest and most mag- 
 nificent place of the kind no doubt in the world. A won- 
 derful monument to the indomitable will and energy of the 
 British people ; but to my theme. 
 
 While in Paris I visited places of rare antiquity, and saw 
 the finest statuary, pictures and paintings (those around and 
 in the Palace of the Louvre and Versailles especially), that 
 the most talented artists or old masters ever produced ; 
 pictures to be counted by the mile.- As they hang on the 
 lofty walls, imagine to yourselves walking and viewing seven 
 miles of pictures, but such is the fact at Versailles. 
 
 Before bidding adieu to France, I visited ancient Rouen, 
 the old capital of Normandy, now styled from its numerous 
 cotton factories, the Manchester of France. I was very 
 much interested with every thing I saw there, so full of 
 antiquities is it, and in the neighborhood are the scenes of 
 many hard fought battles waged between the hostile armies 
 of England and France. 
 
 In conclusion of my remarks on France, I may say that 
 aside of the magnificence and beauty of Paris, with its sur- 
 roundings and antiquated Rouen, that I saw nothing to 
 interest me elsewhere or on my route, Paris being as I 
 remarked before, France. Gobbling up immense sums of 
 the people's money to make and keep it so ; yet with all its 
 finery and gaiety it needs much sanitary reform, it needs less 
 water in the public fountains, of which there are thousands 
 
2 94 Appendix, 
 
 perhaps, and more in the public and private dwellings, and 
 lastly, the able superintendence of a Board of Health, such 
 as that of New York and elsewhere ; but I am inclined to 
 think that ere reformation takes place, rebellion will have 
 done more than can be undone for generations untold. 
 
 I have occupied your attention somewhat longer than I 
 intended, but will have to crave it for a short time longer, so 
 as to make a few remarks respecting. 
 
 Scotland. — The land which gave the majority of you 
 birth, the land of a Bruce, a Wallace, a Burns, and a Scott, 
 and from which our Club takes its name. Having one fine 
 day reached Carlisle after a stay of a few days at the Wind- 
 ermere Lakes, the iron horse soon propelled me over the 
 border, and steaming along at a more than rapid rate soon 
 found myself in Melrose, there to see the old Abbey, of 
 which Sir Walter Scott gives so fine a description in his lay 
 of the " Last Minstrel." It is even now a magnificent 
 specimen of Gothic architecture. Then how grand it must 
 have been in its day, unrivalled no doubt. I must continue my 
 journey north, " for time is on the wing." Away the iron 
 horse sped once more, ganging along the banks of the 
 " lovely Tweed," rendered so famous in the poetry of Burns, 
 away pass princely Abbottsford, once the abode of Scotia's 
 genius, Creichton and Borthwick Castles, famous in the time 
 of the ill-fated Mary, and I am soon in sight of the Firth of 
 Forth, and ere long in Edinboro. 
 
 A beautiful city indeed is the modern Athens, I except not 
 even gay Paris, for it pleased me the most, and when I say 
 that if circumstances would permit I would like to reside 
 there, which in itself is sufficient to convince' you of how 
 much I was struck with its natural beauty and grandeur. 
 While here we visited the Castle, saw Queen Mary's room 
 wherein James VI was born, the regalia of Scotland's 
 Kings and Queens, Holyrood Palace, Scott's and other 
 monuments and many other places of note. 
 
 I know that you would like to hear me speak of all I 
 
Appendix, 295 
 
 saw in Scotland, "but it can't be did," suffice it to say that 
 among others, I visited Linlithgow, the favorite resort of the 
 Stuarts, the field of Bannock-burn, wherein " Scots wha hae 
 wi' Wallace bled," was in Stirling Castle, saw the Douglas 
 room, and the Wallace monument on the Abbey Craig, now 
 approaching I am glad to say completion. 
 
 I was in Dumbarton, smoky and busy Glasgow, and pic- 
 turesque Ayr, where I saw the Wallace Tower and the 
 " Twa Brigs," and sat in the room wherein the Bard says, 
 " The nicht drave on wi sangs and clatter, 
 And ay the ale was growing better." 
 
 There sat myself down gently in the old arm chairs of 
 Tam O'Shanter and Souter Johnny, and drank in moderation 
 mind, out of that old cup, the contents of which at one 
 time, we are informed, so completely turned poor Tam's 
 
 brain. 
 
 I was in the immortal Burns' native cottage, and I saw the 
 Very spot where, as he says, 
 
 <' A blast o' Janwar' win, 
 
 Blew hansel in on Robin." 
 Visited AUoway Kirk, saw the grave of the father of 
 Robin and that of Souter Johnny, the great Bard's monu- 
 ment, a temple of classic beauty, Tam O'Shanter and Souter 
 Johnny, looking as natural as life, and the Auld Brig o' 
 Doon, whereon 
 
 " The Carlin claught her by the rump,^ 
 And left puir Maggie scarce a stump.' 
 
 On the auld Brig, recently restored, I, like thousands of 
 others, admirers of the poet, rudely inscribed my name on 
 it, and should either of you ever visit there you will find it on 
 the tenth stone which surmounts the right hand wall gMiging 
 north ; and now having satisfied myself by visiting old 
 Scotia, I have to tell you truthfully, well may it be called 
 Bonnie, for its scenery is grand, picturesque and sublime, 
 the blooming heather covering the mountain tops as with a 
 purple mantle, and that I am not at all surprised at Sandy's 
 intense love and admiration for his bonnie Scotland. 
 
ERRATA. 
 
 Page 17. Preface — Note. — For "tripe," read "stripe." 
 
 Page 34. Note — For "wind off right bow," read "wind off 
 left bow." 
 
 Page 39. Last Hue — For "composed of beef steak," rcul 
 "comprised of beefsteak." 
 
 Page 62. Eighth line from bottom — For "Fort of Cybi," 
 read " Fort of Gybi." 
 
 Page 64. Note. — For " Burhyn Slate (Juarries," read 
 " Peurhyn Slate Quarries." 
 
 Page 6g. Last line. — For "hands of Morpheus." read 
 " arms of Morpheus." 
 
 Page 80. Eighth line from top — For " 4000 men." read 
 " 400 men." 
 
 Page 94. Sixth line from top — For ' cousin to Robert 
 Peel," read "cousin to Sir Robert Peel." 
 
 Page 88. Fifth line from bottom — For " Glanmorgan," 
 read " Glamorgan." 
 
 Page 97. First line — For "the former two places," read 
 " the former and latter places." 
 
 Page 118. Last line — For " Caer Odor," read " Caer 
 Oder." 
 
 Page 145. Second line from top — For " Goberlin tapes- 
 try," read "Gobelin tapestry." 
 
 Same page. Fourteenth line from top — For " Verri," 
 read "Verrio." 
 
 Page 169. Eleventh line from top — For " Catharine de 
 Medicis," read " Marie de Medicis." 
 
 Page 171. Sixth line from bottom — For " Princess fo 
 Navarre," read " Princess of " Navarre." 
 
 Page 182. Eleventh line from bottom — For " it r ui luri- 
 ously by," read " as it ran furiousl}- by." 
 
 Page T91. Third line from top— For " hemlet," read 
 " helmet." 
 
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