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 Yours in Christian Love, 
 
 George Lambert. 
 
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Around the Globe 
 
 AND THROUGH 
 
 BIBLE Lands 
 
 NOTES AND OBSERVATIONS 
 
 On the Various Countries Through^ Wiiicl-i the 
 Writer Traveled. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 BY George Lambert. 
 
 * 
 
 ^(!Va-Ci; ■ 
 
 FROM THE PRESS 0F\ ' . - oi I -7 W 
 
 MENNONITE PUBLISHING 
 
 ELKHART, INDIANA. 
 
 issa. 
 
 r^sai^ffiANf! '^'^'^ I 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1896, 
 by George Lambert, in the office of the Librarian of 
 Congress, at Washington. All rights reserved. 
 
 \^^ \ 
 
 <&Jfi 
 
tS)eelicG^tion. 
 
 To nty beloVed Wife, {\\e cl^oice of 
 my yoUtl^, and {\}e Ise^t ^ift of ©od io 
 
 To oUr cl^tldren wVcl^ ©od ^oiVe U5 
 Q.n(^ WI70 ^tood fey \15 50 fattl7f\illy during 
 tl^e^e W(anderin^5, 
 
 To nty frlend5 Wl^o encoUra^ed me 
 during m.y traVe^, and to ^1^056 reqUe^t- 
 tn^ and Ur^in^ tl^e pUfelication of ^1^15 
 feook, 
 
 I affectionately dedicate tl^e ^ame. 
 
 ©eor^e L.am.feert, 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Greeting: — Why another book meets you in the open 
 field, among thousands of others, and which, like others, must 
 stand on its own merits, is. Inasmuch as the author believes 
 that as every man in this world has his own special calling, 
 duty or mission to fulfill, so have also the good books that 
 have been handed down to us; and by the grace of God, they 
 have been the means of enlightening, instructing and educat- 
 ing the human family, and of bringing them into a closer 
 relationship with each other in this world of Christian use- 
 fulness. 
 
 This work treats on foreign mission lands, mission work 
 and other topics of interest to Bible students in general as 
 they are observed by those visiting these countries. It is an 
 act of charity and Christian kindness to be interested in our 
 brethren beyond the seas; and though the}' are of different 
 nationality, and many of them far inferior in intelligence, 
 science, arts and education to the civilized Christian nations, 
 we ought to remember that they are our brethren, for He 
 "hath made of one blood all nations of men for to dwell on all 
 the face of the earth." 
 
 There is no closer relation existing anywhere than the 
 relation between the Christian church at home and Christian 
 missions in foreign lands. Hence, all should learn to know 
 more about them and become personally interested in the 
 great mission work of this Christian nation. There is no 
 closer relation existing anywhere than the relation between 
 the Bible and Bible lands, and these are so closely interwoven 
 
PKEFACE. 7 
 
 that traces confirming the truth of the teachings of God's 
 Holy Word, are seen on every hand. The writer has 
 given briefly the facts as he observed them during his travels, 
 to the best of his knowledge, without the least exaggeration, 
 with notes, references, extracts and statistics, as he has 
 found them accurate, interesting and beneficial. 
 
 The author is greatly indebted to different guide-books: 
 Murray's Handbook on Japan, Madras Publications on India 
 and Bible Lands, Baedeker on Lower Egypt, Baedeker's Pal- 
 estine and Syria, and especially to the " Journeys of Jesus " 
 by Dr. Addison D. Crabtre, from which, through the kind- 
 ness of the Mennonite Publishing Company, he has been 
 permitted to use a number of illustrations. All of these 
 works are considered very reliable. 
 
 As the author has been permitted to visit a number of 
 missions in foreign lands, and has seen the need of making 
 special efforts to aid these institutions in their work of Chris- 
 tianizing these heathen countries, and since many appeals 
 for help were made to him, it is his sincere purpose and 
 desire to set apart a certain percentage of the proceeds from 
 the sale of this book for foreign missions, as the Lord 
 may direct. 
 
 It is the prayer of the author that these lines, as they go 
 out on their mission, may be the means of creating a deeper 
 interest in the hearts of the readers, and aid them by im- 
 parting such knowledge as will inspire them to look up and 
 reach out, under the blessing of God, to greater usefulness. 
 
 George Lambeet, 
 Elkhart, Indiana. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I.— Introduction 14 
 
 CHAPTER II,— Passports and Moneys.— Table of Eoreign 
 
 Moneys — Sample Passport — Table of Comparative Time 17 
 
 CHAPTER III.— Leaving Home.— Farewell— Fears for Safe 
 Return — Accompanied to Chicago by a Friend — Chicago Mission 
 — Salt Lake— Mountains and Deserts— Our Western Metropolis 
 — Chinatown — Starting for the Land of the Rising Sun— Good 
 Byes— Music — Golden Gate 25 
 
 CHAPTER IV. — Out on the Deep. — Ship Rolls — Seasickness 
 — Missionaries — Tourists— The Ship like a Country Town -Farm 
 Yard— Honolulu— Queen's Palace— Productions— Water Melons 
 — Leprosy — Leper Doctor — Part Forever — Doctors as Mission- 
 aries—Natives—Out on the Deep — Sea Rough — Waves Mountain 
 High — Crossing the Meridian— Torpedo Lines— Turtle Soup — 
 Native Boats 28 
 
 CHAPTER v.— Yokohama and Kamakura.— Main Sea Port— 
 Jinrikishas — Kamakura — Gods of War — Daibutsu — Dimensions 
 of this Idol— Goddess of Mercy — "Where is your God?" — "I See 
 It" — Learn to Know Thyself 39 
 
 CHAPTER VI.— ToKio.— A Missionary's Statement— The War 
 Spirit— Shaven Eyebrows and Blackened Teeth — Visits through 
 Tokio — Japanese Dinner with Chopsticks— Women Bought and 
 Sold— Legalized Prostitution — Bath Rooms — Crematory — Prod- 
 ucts — Fujiyama — Manner of Constructing Buildings — Cemeter- 
 ies — Idols — AVomen as Slaves 46 
 
 CHAPTER VII.— Kobe, Nagasaki and Hong Kong.— Wid- 
 owed Mother and Child — Kobe — Inland Sea — Nagasaki — City of 
 the Dead — Child taken from its Mother — War Vessels — Services 
 on board Ship — Hong Kong — Seamen's Mission — Street Sights. . 01 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. — Singapore and Colombo. —Services on 
 board Ship — Singapore — Sea Shells — All kinds of Work done on 
 the Streets — Chats with People of Different Nationalities — Poor 
 Meals — Mission Service— Penang — Island of Sumatra — Colombo . H»i 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 9 
 
 CHAPTER IX.— Madras.— Transferred to the Khedive— Sailing 
 on Bay of Bengal— Population of Madras— Seat of Government 
 — Compared with other Nations — Ninety to Ninety-flve per cent. 
 Poor People — Women carrying Brick and Mortar — Ear, Nose, 
 and Neck Jewels — Low Wages — Buildings — Bungals — Huts — 
 Penitentiary — An American in Prison — Dangers of our Young 
 People 72 
 
 CHAPTER X.— Mission Work.- Missionaries — Fifteen Dollars 
 Per Year Furnishes All — Who were the Men of God — Theosophy 
 — Missions — Castes — Christmas Songs — Meeting of Missionaries 
 — Rev. Halicham Bannagee 80 
 
 CHAPTER XL — Madras to Calcutta. — Meeting the Amer- 
 ican Party — Services on Board — Hugh River — The immense 
 Wash of the Hugli River — Sagar Island — Dangerous Passage — 
 Jungles— Met many Ships and Boats— Calcutta 89 
 
 CHAPTER XII.— Calcutta.— City of Palaces— "A Globe Trot- 
 ter" — Bathing in the Sacred River — Mission Service— Burning 
 Gnatt — Infant Weddings — Widowhood — Tombstone of an 
 American, and a Brother's Words 92 
 
 CHAPTER XIII.-BENARES.-Railroad yiccommodations-ANice 
 Country — Temples and Mosques — Bloody Sacrifices— Monkey 
 Temple — Animal Worship — Pilgrims — The Treacherous Lie — 
 A Hindoo Saying — "Sons of the Ganges" — Distances and Fares 
 — Disgraceful Carvings— Dancing Girls 100 
 
 CHAPTER XIV.— Allahabad.— Junction of Sacred Rivers- 
 Thousands of Pilgrims — Banners and Flags Floating — Under- 
 ground Temple — Suicide — Brahmans Drowning-^Prayag — India 
 Productions and Animals — English Officers — Forts^Soldiers . . . 108 
 
 CHAPTER XV.— Bombay.— Population— Streets— Buildings — 
 Missions — Hospital for Aged Bullocks — Ant Feeding— Child 
 Widows — Elephanta Caves 114 
 
 CHAPTER XVI.— Parsees.— Principal Merchants— Worship the 
 Four Elements — Child Training — Marriage — Marriageable Age 
 — Marriage Fund — Funeral — Preparing the Dead — "Towers of 
 Silence" 122 
 
 CHAPTER XVIL— Bombay to EoYrT.— Farewell to India- 
 War Vessels — Rev. and Mrs. Hazen — Arabian Sea — Aden — Red 
 Sea in Sight — Bible Lands — Crossing of the Israelites — Mount 
 Sinai — Suez — The Canal — Short cut Around the Globe — Bitter 
 Lake — Crocodile Lake and Ismalia 139 
 
 I 
 
10 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII.~The Land of the Pharaohs.— Mixed 
 
 Population — Streets Crowded — Water Carriers — Turbans — Orna- 
 ments — Veiling of Women (Single, Married) — Child Carrying — 
 Water Fountain — Moslem's Prayer 151 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. — Dervishes and the Tombs. — Dancing and 
 Howling Dervishes and Mode of Worship — Citadel— Tombs of 
 the Mamelukes— Khalifs— Mosque of Sultan Hasan— Tombs of 
 the Khedives — Island of Roida — Coptic Church — Holy Family 
 Sheltered — Joseph's Well — American Mission 1(50 
 
 CHAPTER XX.— The Pyramids, and Up the Nile.— Pyra- 
 mids — Sphinx— Memphis— Up the Nile — Water Wheels — Work- 
 ing in the Fields— Necropolis — Ramses 11. — Sakkara — Apis 
 Tombs — Sacred Bulls— Passage to the Tombs — Monster Coffins 
 — Mariette — Lasting Impressions 170 
 
 CHAPTER XXL— Museum of Gizeh and Heliopolis.— Mu- 
 seum — Egyptian Collections — Coffins — Mummies — Different Ne- 
 cropoles— Ancient Jewelry — Ornaments — Obelisk of Heliopolis 
 — Virgin and Child Hid — Palm Trees — Land of Goshen — Canals 
 —Railroad Cut 182 
 
 CHAPTER XXIL— Port Said, Egypt, to Joppa, Pales- 
 tine. — History — Sailing for Joppa — Land in View — Joppa Sea 
 Port — Passport — Hotels — House of Simon the Tanner — Plain of 
 Sharon — Flowers and Productions — Railroad — Stations — Orange 
 Groves — Jerusalem — Confusion 187 
 
 CHAPTER XXIIL— Jerusalem and its History.- Visitor's 
 First Impression — Interest Grows— Jerusalem not a Place of 
 xlmusement — King David's Reign— Character of the City — An- 
 cient Walls— Mount Zion— Solomon's Reign— The City Beauti- 
 fied — Jerusalem Destroyed and Rebuilt — 200 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV.— Jerusalem from Hezekiah's Reign to 
 THE Present Time. — Jews Carried into Captivity — Solomon — 
 Treasures Stolen from Temple and Carried to Babylon — Temple 
 Burned— Jews Return — Destruction and Bloodshed — Herod 
 Captured the City— The City Enriched— Time of Christ— AVas 
 Taken by the Persians— Fell to the Egyptians— Saladin Captured 
 the City— Kharezmians Took it by Storm— Under Turkish Rule. 207 
 
 CHAPTER XXV.— Solomon's Temple. City Walls— Pools— 
 Houses— Streets — Climate — Its Water Supply — Population- 
 Mosque of Omar or Solomon's Temple— Mount Moriah — Rock 
 in Interior — From where Christ Drove the Changers — Abraham 
 and Melchizedek Sacrificing— Well of Souls— Golden Nails- 
 Blowing the Trumpet — Calling to Judgment— AVire Rope across 
 the Valley— Vaults— Stables of Solomon 210 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 11 
 
 CHAPTEE XXVI.— Calvary and Tomb of Christ.— Jews' 
 
 Wailing Place— Chanting — Immense Stones — Golgotha— Grotto 
 of Jeremiah — The Cross Conquered the World — Dearest Spot 
 on Earth— Eent in the Kock — Consoling Angel — Turkish Offi- 
 cials — Different Chapels — Decoration 223 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII.— Easter in Jerusalem.— Exciting Scenes 
 — Easter Festival— Grand Mass — Good Friday — Holy Fire — Im- 
 mense Crowds— Church Illuminated — Fighting and Accidents — 
 Rough Mannered Officials — Wildest Confusion — Turning Somer- 
 saults 234 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII.— Missions, and Jewish Passover.— Mis- 
 sions— German and English Services — Jewish Passover — Two 
 Million Souls — Passover Services in Every House — Messiah 
 Comes — Wine and Unleavened Bread— Greek Foot-washing — 
 Latin Foot- washing — St. Stephens' Gate— Pool of Bethesda — Via 
 Dolorosa — Ecce Homo Arch — House of Dives — Bathing the 
 Stones with Tears 240 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX.— Streets and Shops. — Streets — Lanes- 
 Grain Markets — Bazaars — Jewish Quarters — Shops — Castle of 
 David — Jaffa Gate — Valley of Hinnom — Burial Grounds— Gihon 
 — Official Buildings — Hospitals — Zion's Gate — Coenaculum — 
 Tombs of Kings, David and Solomon — Outpouring of the Holy 
 Ghost — Washing of the Apostles' Feet — Last Supper — House of 
 Caiaphas 252 
 
 CHAPTER XXX.— A Walk to Gethsemane.— Valley of Kid- 
 ron — Beggars — Lepers — Hospital — List of Lepers — Stephen 
 Stoned — Virgin's Tomb — Cavern of Agony — Gethsemane — Sor- 
 rowful Event — Affecting Scenes in the Garden — Mount of Olives 
 — Trees and Shrubs 2G0 
 
 CHAPTER XXXL— Mount of Olives and Surroundings. — 
 Church of the Lord's Prayer — Ascension — Great Ingathering — 
 Russian Building — Valley of Jehoshaphat — Resurrection — Absa- 
 lom's Tomb — Grotto of St. James — Village of Siloah — Pool of 
 Siloah— St. Mary's Well 270 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIL— A Visit to Bethlehem.—" Hill of Evil 
 Counsel" — Tree on which Judas Hanged Himself-Boundary Line 
 — Well of Magi— Rachel's Tomb — Bethlehem — Naomi— Ruth — 
 Boaz— David Anointed — Church of the Nativity — Manger — 
 " Milk Grotto " — David's Well— Shepherd's Field — Cave of 
 Adullam 280 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIIL— From Jerusalem down to Jericho.— 
 Bethany — Home of Jesus — House of Mary and Martha— Laza- 
 rus' Tomb — Stone of Rest- Apostles' Springs-" Valley of Achor " 
 Way of Blood — Modern Jericho — Balsam Gardens 291 
 
12 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 CHAPTEE XXXIV. — Jericho, Jordan, and Dead Sea. — 
 
 Jericho— Thorns— Balm of Gilead— Apples of Sodom— Elisha's 
 Spring— House of Rahab— Forty Days' East— Bobbers- Jordan 
 — Man Drowned— Bathing in Jordan — Dead Sea. — Camels — 
 Mountains of Moab— American Party 300 
 
 CHAPTEE XXXV.— Hebron and Cave of Maohpelah.— 
 Solomon's Pools — Aqueducts— Tomb of the Prophet Jonah — 
 Valley of Eschol— History of Hebron— Great Stones— Tombs of 
 Abraham, Isaac and Jacob with their Wives — Jewish Prayer— 
 " Christians," " Dogs" — Missions — Pilgrimages 313 
 
 CHAPTEE XXXVL— Emmaus and Samuel's Tomb.— Tombs- 
 Rough Roads— Samuel's Tomb — Christ met the Disciples — Em- 
 maus— Lord made Himself Known— Stone Structure — Mount- 
 ains and Eavines — Brooks — AVhere David Slew the Giant— 
 Eeturn to Jerusalem — Leaving the Holy City 320 
 
 CHAPTEE XXXVII.— Mount Carmel.— Leaving Joppa-Haifa 
 (Acre) — Mount Carmel — Elijah's Castle — Phoenicia — Baal 
 Worshipers 328 
 
 CHAPTEE XXXVIIL— Tyre and Sidon.— Ancient Euins— 
 Bible Times — Crowning City— Bobbed of Its Treasures— Top of 
 a Bock — Zarephath 334 
 
 CHAPTEE XXXIX.— Nazareth and Hills of Galilee.— 
 Kishon — Home of Zebedee — Nazareth — Home of Jesus— Sheep 
 and Goats — Streets — St. Mary's Well — Mount Tabor — Hills of 
 Galilee — Bedouin Camps— Tiberas — Sea of Galilee — A Night of 
 Misery 338 
 
 CHAPTEE XL.— Sea of Galilee and Adjacent Points.— 
 Gennesaret — Description — Magdala — Capernaum — Chorazin — 
 Bethsaida — Sea of Galilee— Plain of the Eive Thousand— Cana 
 of the Bible — Saul's Battle-ground — Arabs Plowing 346 
 
 CHAPTEE XLI.-Beirut and Damascus.— Beirut— Diligence— 
 Eailroad — Lebanon Mountains — Mount Hermon — Druses — Mas- 
 sacring Maronites — European Commission — Damascus — History 354 
 
 CHAPTER XLIL— Damascus.— Population— Naaman — Saul's 
 Conversion— Street called Straight — HLouse of Ananias — Tomb 
 of St. George — Window from which Paul Escaped — Visitors in 
 Damascus — Dogs— Moneys — Over the Lebanon Mountains by 
 Moon Light — Turkish Funeral .360 
 
 CHAPTER XLIIL— Beirut to Smyrna and Ephesus.— Tri- 
 poli — Orange Mart — Island of Cyprus — Larnaka — Simasol — Man 
 Overboard — Island of Ehodes — Carrying their Beds — Island of 
 Chios— Smyrna — By Train to Ephesus 367 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 13 
 
 CHAPTER XLIV.-EPHESUS.-Temple of Diana-Paul in Ephesus 
 — Home of St. John — Tomb of St. Luke — Euins of Marble — 
 Modern Ephesus — Leaving for Greece 374 
 
 CHAPTER XL v.— Athens, Greece.— Paul in Athens— Mars 
 Hill— The Unknown God — New Doctrine — Paul's Success 381 
 
 CHAPTER XL VI. — Athens and Corinth. — Grecian Funeral — 
 Priest Begging Alms — King's Gardens and Palace — Tour to 
 Corinth — Corinthian Canal — Paul at Corinth 387 
 
 CHAPTER XL VII.— From Corinth to Naples, Italy.— 
 Harvest in Greece — Patres — Business Houses open on Sunday — 
 A Fight — Out on the Deep — American Party^Island Cofu — 
 Brindisi, Italy — Country — Naples — Mount Vesuvius — Pompeii — 
 Election — Funeral procession — Tour to Rome 394 
 
 CHAPTER XL VIIL— Ancient Rome. — Center of the Ancient 
 World — Other Nations Robbed of their Treasures — Paul in Rome 
 — Puteoli — Three Taverns — Paul's Imprisonment 401 
 
 CHAPTER XLIX.— Modern Rome.— Art Productions — Great 
 Cathedrals — St. Peter's Church — Ancient Ruins 407 
 
 CHAPTER L.— Homeward Bound. — Florence, Italy —Basel, 
 Switzerland — Paris, France — London, England — Crossing the 
 Atlantic— New York, U. S. A— Home 410 
 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 Introduction. 
 
 FEW years ago, in the heart of the Rocky 
 Mountains, a gentleman encountered a French 
 priest, his locks completely white with age, 
 traveling apparently for pleasure. Astonished 
 at the sight, he ventured to inquire what had induced him at 
 this time of life to go so far from home. 
 
 '"Tisvery easily explained," replied the priest. "Six 
 months ago I was apparently about to die. One night I 
 dreamed that I was already in God's presence and that He 
 spoke to me these words: "My child, how did you like the 
 beautiful world 1 gave you to dwell in?" I made no answer, 
 in fact I was too mortified to make an intelligent reply. For 
 think of it, I, who had preached for fifty years continually 
 of a better world, had never examined this one at all. Awak- 
 ing from my dream I made a vow to God, that if He gave 
 me back my health, I would devote some months, at least, to 
 seeing and admiring His works. So here I am making a tour 
 of the world." 
 
 Many have been the number, during the last twenty 
 years, who have made this tour, and given the benefit of 
 their experiences to others, who could not make the trip for 
 themselves. Those who make these circuits, however, often 
 have varied experiences, aiid are required to endure exposure 
 in many ways, and to practice self-denials that are not 
 
INTEODUCTION. 15 
 
 always pleasant. They are frequently in danger; they are 
 overtaken by storms both on land and sea; they may often 
 be obliged to elbow their way through difficulties and un- 
 pleasant crowds in both heathen and in Bible lands, while 
 others are in their homes enjoying the comforts of life, read- 
 ing, and improving their minds from the trying experiences 
 of those who have traveled, and have given to the world 
 what they saw and heard, and in this way their work has 
 proved a blessing both at home and abroad. 
 
 All of us cannot, it is true, make these extended trips, 
 but during the years and centuries that have passed since the 
 first man made the tour around the world, traveling has be- 
 come comparatively easy, and ocean voyages have to a great 
 extent lost their terrors on account of the immense steam- 
 ships and the complete system of navigation. 
 
 "Man is wonderfully and fearfully made," and while the 
 works of the Most High are marvelous in the creation of all 
 things, man is the greatest of all. Men differ in their qual- 
 ities, graces, temperaments and dispositions, being born and 
 brought up in different homes and under different influences; 
 while the great God, the Father of all, is not partial, but 
 gives to all a talent or more and calls them to their particular 
 work and mission. To Him be all honor and glory. 
 
 Ever since the author was a boy and had learned that 
 the world was so great and contained so many different peo- 
 ple (with so many different modes of living) many of whom 
 worship and serve dumb idols instead of the true and living 
 God, he longed to visit, see and hear them. To the sorrow 
 of his heart he has seen and heard, and therefore knows 
 that these things are even so. Many, even the great majority 
 of the people, do not know or hear of the Bible, or of Christ 
 
16 
 
 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 as the Saviour of the world. Since the writer first learned in 
 early youth of the land in which the men of the Bible lived 
 and suffered, the land in which Christ performed His mission, 
 and the hallowed grounds upon which His holy feet trod, 
 he has had a longing desire to visit that country; and this 
 has seemed to be his strongest inclination in connection 
 with ministerial work. 
 
 At last, by the providence of God, the writer believes, and 
 the aid of a good wife and children, the way was opened for 
 him to make the great tour around the world, and he here 
 gives the readers some of the information gathered, which he 
 hopes will prove interesting and instructive. 
 
CHAPTEE II. 
 
 Passports and Moneys. 
 
 BOVE all things it is necessary to learn in 
 advance what the necessities are for a tour of 
 this kind. Those who wish a more extensive 
 outline and information are referred to Thos. 
 Cook & Son, 262 Broadway, New York, where all the 
 information on the subject of traveling, carrying money, 
 the banking system in foreign lands, and also the circular 
 note and letter of credit system, can be obtained. The latter 
 is a very good way to carry money without being in danger 
 of losing it or of being robbed. Any amount of money 
 can be drawn and also exchanged in any country or main 
 city in the world. 
 
 PASSPORTS. 
 
 It is of great importance to have a passport for iden- 
 tification at post offices, banks, and before officials in 
 foreign lands and in crossing the lines and being admitted 
 into some of the public places. 
 
 In Turkey it is impossible to travel into the interior 
 without a passport, and a man is always credited for 
 carrying one. 
 
 A passport can be obtained by applying to the Secretary 
 of State at Washington, D. C. A blank will be sent to 
 you together with instructions how to fill it out; and by 
 having it acknowledged before a Justice of the Peace or 
 
18 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Notary Public, and returned with one dollar included for 
 the fee, you will receive your passport, which is an hon- 
 orable document for one to carry. We will here give a 
 complete copy of the passport which we carried. 
 
 FOREIGN MONEYS. 
 JAPAN. 
 
 10 rin = 1 sen, 
 100 sen = 1 yen. 
 The currency consists of the following silver: 1 yen, 
 50 sen, 20 sen, 10 sen and 5 sen. 
 
 Copper: 2 sen, 1 sen, 5 rin and 1 rin. The yen is 
 worth in exchange about 54 cents, United States money. 
 Mexican silver dollars can be used at the treaty ports. 
 
 CHINA. 
 
 In the interior of China the only currency consists 
 of brass coins, called cash, with a square hole in the center 
 through which they are strung. Mexican and English 
 dollars are used in the treaty ports, but going through 
 the country each is exchanged for from 1,000 to 1,200 cash; 
 a few dollars' worth make a load for a coolie. Mexican 
 and English dollars are the same in value as the Japanese 
 yen. 
 
 TABLES OF FOREIGN MONEYS. 
 
 EGYPT. TURKEY. 
 
 Monetary Unit — the Piastre of 40 Monetary Unit — the Piastre of 40 
 Paras. Paras. 
 
 s. d. s. d. 
 
 1 piastre nearly 2% 1 piastre nearly 2}4 
 
 100 piastres = 1 Egyptian 20 " = 1 sUver 
 
 P^^^^ 20 6 Tnediidie— S 4 
 
 English sovereign = 97 piastres . ,^,^^®r:,. * 
 
 20 paras. 100 piastres=l gold medjidie 
 
 French napoleon=about 77.6 pias. or Turkish pound = 18 
 
^^ 
 
 ^t kT£S; 
 
 GOOD ONLY FOR 
 
 TWO YEARS FROM DATE. 
 
 DEPf\RT/V\ENT of STflTE, 
 
 Eo att to iDljoni tfjese presmts §(iaff come ^reelinfl: 
 
 I, the undersigned, Secretary of State of the United States of America, 
 hereby request all whom it may concern to permit 
 George Lambert a Citizen of the United 
 States safely and freely to pass, and in 
 case of need to give him all lawful Aid 
 and Protection. 
 
 DESCRIPTION, 
 
 Age, 41 years. 
 
 Stature, 5 ft,, 8% in., Eng. 
 
 Forehead, high. 
 
 Eyes, grey. 
 
 Nose, straight. 
 
 Mouth, mediiun. 
 
 Chin, medium. 
 
 Hair, brown. 
 
 Complexion, fair. 
 
 race, medium. 
 
 Signature of 
 
 the Bearer. 
 
 Geo. Lambert. 
 
 SEAL. 
 
 Given under my hand 
 and the Seal of the De- 
 partment of State, at the 
 City of Washington, the 
 13th day of August in 
 the year 1894 and of the 
 Independence of the 
 United States the one 
 hundred and nine"- 
 teenth. 
 
 W. Q. Gresham. 
 
 C 
 
 NO. 15669. 
 
PASSPOETS AKD MONEYS. 
 
 21 
 
 Bronze — 34 anna, about 
 
 Silver- 
 
 2 annas 
 4 
 
 INDIA. 
 
 Monetary Unit — Eupee of 16 
 
 Annas. 
 
 s. d. 
 
 m 
 
 {)% 
 2 
 4 
 
 8 " ""08 
 
 " 1 rupee, " "14 
 Notes of the value of 5, 10, 20, 50, 
 100 rupees and upwards are in 
 circulation. The rate of ex- 
 change varies considerably. 
 
 ITALY. 
 
 Monetary Unit — the Lira of 100 
 Centesimi. The money in general 
 use is a paper currency in notes 
 of— 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, 500, 1,000 lire. 
 Gold is invariably at a premium. 
 The Lire (notes, gold, or silver) 
 =1 Pranc. {See France.) 
 
 SWITZEELAND. 
 
 Monetary Unit — the Pranc of 
 100 Centimes. 
 
 PEANCE. 
 
 Bronze — 1 centime 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 2 
 
 (I 
 
 
 
 Nickel— 5 
 
 " 
 
 = 
 
 Q% 
 
 10 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 1 
 
 20 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 2 
 
 Silver— 50 
 
 u 
 
 " 
 
 m 
 
 1 
 
 franc 
 
 " 
 
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 Gold — 20 
 
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 Notes of 50 francs, 100 francs, 500 
 francs, and 1,000 francs are is- 
 sued by several Swiss banks 
 under arrangements with the 
 Government, and are available 
 throughout Switzerland, and are 
 the same value as gold. 
 
 Moneta 
 Bronze 
 
 ry Unit — the Pranc of 
 Centimes. 
 
 s. 
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 lOO 
 d. 
 
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 10 
 
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 poleon" or "Louis"= 16 
 Notes are issued by the Bank] of 
 Prance for 50 francs, 100 francs, 
 500 francs, and 1,000 francs, and 
 are the same value as gold. 
 
 UNITED STATES, AMEEICA. 
 
 Monetary Unit— 1 Dollar of 100 
 Cents. 
 
 s. d. 
 Copper— 1 cent = Q}4. 
 
 2 " "01 
 Nickel— 3 cents " 1% 
 
 5 " "0 21^ 
 
 Silver— 3 " "0 l^i 
 
 5 " "0 2% 
 
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 cates, Silver Certificates, and 
 National Bank Notes are issued 
 in amounts of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 
 100, 500, 1,000 dollars and up- 
 wards, and circulate at par with 
 gold. 
 
22 
 
 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Time. 
 
 Time by the clock at the following places. When it is 
 12 o'clock, noon, at New York, it is 
 
 11:00 A.M. in Chicago, III. 
 9:00 '' " San Francisco, Cal. 
 
 2:15 " " Yokohama, Japan. 
 
 12:23 " " Hong Kong, China. 
 
 2:10 " " Adelaide, Australia. 
 
 2:36 " " Melbourne, Australia. 
 
 3:00 " " Sydney, Australia. 
 
 4:00 P. M. " Ephesus, Asia Minor. 
 11:51 " " Singapore, India. 
 
 10:49 " " Calcutta, British India. 
 
 10:17 " " Madras, British India. 
 
 10:15 " " Colombo, Ceylon. 
 
 9:47 " " Bombay, British India. 
 
 7:56 " " Aden, Arabia. 
 
 7:05 " " Jerusalem, Palestine. 
 
 6:08 " " Brindisi, Italy. 
 
 4:56 " " Greenwich, England. 
 
 At home in the Northern Hemisphere the longest day 
 is June 21st; the shortest, December 21st. In the Southern 
 Hemisphere the longest day is December 21st, and the 
 shortest, June 21st. 
 
CHAPTER HI. 
 
 Leaving Home. 
 
 FAREWELL — FEARS FOR SAFE RETURN — ACCOMPANIED TO CHICAGO 
 BY A FRIEND— CHICAGO MISSION— SALT LAKE— MOUNTAINS AND 
 DESERTS— OUR WESTERN METROPOLIS — CHINATOWN — 
 STARTING FOR THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN- 
 GOOD BYES— MUSIC— GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 HE day of our departure from home drew near 
 without the least obstacle being in the way, 
 and we took it for granted that the Lord was 
 pleased with our purpose, since our prayer 
 had been that if it was not in accordance with the Divine 
 Will, He should hinder us in our contemplated undertaking. 
 
 On the 25th day of August, 1894, we bid adieu to our 
 beloved family, wife and children, and many others who 
 had met us at the railway station. Indeed it was like a 
 man leaving his family and moving toward the battle field; 
 especially after hearing some express themselves in words 
 like these: "You will never return safely." 
 
 We boarded the train" and were soon on our long tour, 
 accompanied by our friend D. G. Musselman, as far as his 
 home in Chicago, 111. We stopped with him a short time, 
 visiting some places of interest, among which was the Dea- 
 coness' Home in charge of Bro. J, Sprunger,? and the Men- 
 nonite Mission in charge of Bro. S. F. Cofi'man of Elkhart, 
 Indiana. 
 
26 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Leaving the city we stopped at several points in the 
 West, including Salt Lake City, Utah, the great Mormon 
 stronghold, where many sights are to be seen. The Temple 
 and Tabernacle are in themselves wonders. The inhabitants 
 appear very clever and sociable, and claim that polygamy 
 has been abandoned. We also visited the tomb of Brigham 
 Young, the celebrated Mormon prophet. 
 
 Traveling from there to the western coast we passed 
 through mountains, tunnels, deserts, etc., that must indeed 
 convince any one that this is a wonderful country, with its 
 prairies and mountains, rivers and lakes, gas and coal, 
 silver and gold, and in fact everything that is essential 
 in making this a magnificent country and people. 
 
 Traveling across the Great American Desert was 
 a very unpleasant part of our journey, on account of the 
 sand and dust which found its way into the coach, though 
 all the windows were closed. Going through California 
 much is to be seen in the way of vineyards and fruit orchards 
 of all kinds, until you reach the coast, where San Francisco, 
 the great western shipping point of this country, is situated. 
 It is amazing to see the immense warehouses, and the long 
 trains and the large ships that come and go, loaded to their 
 utmost capacity. 
 
 San Francisco is a great city. Although located thou- 
 sands of miles from our eastern cities, yet it is appar- 
 ently very similar to them. We spent some time at this 
 place. Many religious meetings of all kinds were car- 
 ried on here, yet we found many degraded places and 
 a great deal of sin existing. 
 
 Chinatown is quite a sight, and all who visit San Fran- 
 cisco should go through Chinatown, accompanied by a guide. 
 By the time a man becomes thoroughly interested, he almost 
 forgets that he is yet so near home and in his own 
 
LEAVING HOME. 27 
 
 country; for everything is so very different from the other 
 parts of the city. The docks, where the great ocean steamers 
 are anchored, are very interesting. We found the ship 
 Oceanica, of the Occidental & Oriental Line, at the dock, 
 discharging her cargo and reloading for Japan and China. 
 
 On the 25th of September, 1894, passengers for the 
 steamer began to arrive from all parts of our country. The 
 weather was fine, and it was a time not soon to be forgotten. 
 We soon met a number of passengers, some of whom were 
 missionaries starting for the "Land of the Rising Sun" and 
 the Orient. Among them, also, were a number that were 
 making about the same kind of tour we had started to make. 
 With many of them we formed acquaintances which, we 
 trust, will never be forgotten. Just before the time for 
 leaving, the crowd of people, — passengers and their friends 
 who had accompanied them to see them off, — was an impress- 
 ive sight. When the time came for sailing, the "good byes," 
 the weeping, the cheering, and waving of handkerchiefs, 
 was very affecting. 
 
 A brass band was on board and dispensed music, while 
 the grand, ponderous ship swung around in the bay and 
 began to move toward the Golden Gate. While listening 
 to the solemn strains of a farewell hymn, grief and joy 
 seemed to commingle. We heard a lady make the remark: 
 "I wish that band would stop playing; it makes me feel 
 so bad." As the Golden Gate hove in sight and the forts 
 had been passed, a steam launch came up along-side the 
 large steamer and took the band back to the citv. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Out on the Deep. 
 
 SHIP ROLLS — SEASICKNESS — MISSIONARIES — TOURISTS — THE SHIP 
 LIKE A COUNTRY TOWN— FARM YARD— HONOLULU— QUEEN'S 
 PALACE — PRODUCTIONS — WATER MELONS — LEPROSY — 
 LEPER DOCTOR— PART FOREVER— DOCTORS AS MIS- 
 SIONARIES—NATIVES—OUT ON THE DEEP- 
 SEA ROUGH — WAVES MOUNTAIN HIGH- 
 CROSSING THE MERIDIAN— TOR- 
 PEDO LINES-TURTLE SOUP- 
 NATIVE BOATS. 
 
 OON the ship was out on the deep, and began 
 to have considerable motion and to rock and 
 pitch so that the passengers soon felt the 
 effects of it. We had a well-furnished room 
 
 with four bunks. By the time we were fairly out and 
 
 under way, night set in. 
 
 September 26th. — Had a good night's rest. The weather 
 
 was fair but the sea rather rough; accommodations and meals 
 
 were good, but we had no appetite, as by this time nearly 
 
 all were seasick, the writer among the rest. Our Chinese 
 
 steward was very good to us and did all he could to make 
 
 us comfortable. 
 
 September 27th. — The sea was rough, and as a result, 
 
 seasickness was in order. September 28th. — Ship rolling; 
 
 passengers kept bunks; very sick, and without appetite. 
 
 September 29th. — Pleasant day, sun shone clearly and the 
 
OUT ON THE DEEP. 
 
 29 
 
 sea was more calm. Some passengers on deck. Seasickness 
 about over and appetite returning. September 30th. — A 
 beautiful morning and all on deck. 
 
 There are about fifteen or more passengers on board who 
 are making the tour around the world, and quite a number 
 of missionaries that are going into foreign fields, which 
 makes a very pleasant company. O, what a world to move 
 out in, where we can meet and associate with people of so 
 
 many different nationalities until our hearts swell with joy, 
 sympathy and affection for each other! 
 
 The vessel seemed to carry a little of nearly everything, 
 and reminded one of a little country town. Cattle, sheep, 
 turkeys, geese, ducks, and chickens were carried along, 
 as well as all kinds of vegetables, all for the accommodation 
 and benefit of the passengers. For breakfast we had beef 
 steak, fresh fish, eggs, pork and a variety of other eatables. 
 
 O, the wonders of God, in the night, upon the sea! 
 In the evening the passengers on the upper deck joined 
 
30 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 in singing, "Nearer my God to Thee." To us it was indeed 
 grand, in the darkness, on the sea, while the waters were 
 raging and the billows rolling, with the stars shining upon 
 us in their beauty, to sing of Him who made and controls 
 the mighty deep. We felt to clap our hands with the 
 waters, and wished that some of our many friends could 
 participate with us on such an occasion. How they would 
 have enjoyed it! 
 
 Sunday, October 1st. — Services were held on board 
 the ship, conducted by Prof. Clark, one of our tourists 
 from Rockford, III., U. S. A. October 2d. — A pleasant 
 morning. We passed within sight of Molokai Island to which 
 the lepers from the Sandwich Islands are banished. 
 
 We arrived at Honolulu on the specified time. This 
 is the main city and sea port of the Sandwich Islands, which 
 are eight in number. It is also the seat of government 
 and location of the King's palace where the Queen resides. 
 Many soldiers were seen and a warlike spirit was manifested 
 on account of the political troubles on the island. These is- 
 lands are sometimes called the "Paradise of the World." 
 
 The natives have a very dark color and do not appear 
 to be much civilized. The islands have large sugar planta- 
 tions, and the tropical fruits, such as pineapples, bananas, 
 cocoanuts, etc., grow quite abundantly. Tea, rice and 
 coffee are also raised. Their money is silver, and is 
 equal in value with United States money. We took a walk 
 into the city in the evening, and on hearing some singing 
 found there was a mission meeting going on which we 
 attended. The congregation consisted of a wonderfully 
 mixed people. The meeting was conducted by an American 
 and from what we could learn and comprehend, the workers 
 seemed to be active and to understand each other in their 
 different languages. 
 
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MOLOKAI ISLAIsTD.— LEPEOSY. 33 
 
 There are many Japanese and Chinese in this country. 
 Many of the women carry their babies on their backs, while 
 others with their children lie around on the sidewalks during 
 the heat of the day, very improperly clad, according to 
 our way of thinking. We also noticed that while eating 
 watermelons in the grocery store, they dropped all the seeds 
 and shells upon the floor, causing a terrible muss, and yet 
 they considered it to be quite proper. Many poor people 
 and cripples are to be seen. Leprosy prevails to a consider- 
 able extent, but all such, as fast as they are pronounced 
 incurable, are banished to Molokai Island, where they must 
 remain until death releases them. A short time previous 
 there were twelve lepers, mostly young people, taken from 
 Honolulu to the island. Parents and children, husbands 
 and wives, were parted forever. Our friend, Mr. Rudolf 
 Paweck, was an eye witness, and says, "It was a very sad 
 sight to behold. While their friends wept, those condemned 
 did not appear to mind it. This condition of mind is 
 brought on by the disease." The government supports them, 
 it is said. 
 
 We were told that a certain physician living on 
 one of the healthy islands, was noticed, for a long time, 
 to be wearing gloves. One day he came to the public 
 authorities, and pulling off his glove, showed a small spot 
 of leprosy on his hand, saying, "You see, I am doomed 
 to die. I might hide this for a good while and keep off 
 the Isle of lepers, but, as I am a physician, I choose to go 
 now and be of some service to those who are further along 
 in the disease. It would be selfish for me to stay here amid 
 luxurious surroundings when I might soothe and help the 
 wretched." He bade farewell to family and friends. The 
 parting was agonizing, as they well knew that they could 
 never see each other's face again. He was transported to 
 
34 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 the Isle of lepers and worked among the sick until prostrated 
 for his own death, which finally came. That was sacrifice, 
 radiant and magnificent, surpassed by none, save that of 
 Him who Himself came from the health of heaven to the 
 leprous isle of this earth, that He might heal our wounds, 
 weep over our grief, die our deaths, and turn this isle of 
 a leprous world into one great, blooming paradise of God. 
 The great mission work is carried on in different ways, 
 and many claim that schools, where the children are brought 
 and kept, are the most successful means. Missionary phy- 
 sicians find their way to them to help in case of need, giving 
 relief and aid with good Christian advice and instruction. 
 Dispensaries and infirmaries arc to bo found everywhere, 
 under the control of the best doctors, some of them poorly 
 paid, and others not paid at all. In one dispensary, within a 
 year, one hundred and fifty thousand prescriptions were 
 issued. The doctors, in many countries, do more missionary 
 work, without charge, than all the others combined. May 
 God bless the good mi-ssionary doctor. 
 
 Octobers. — The ship just called at Honolulu, making 
 a short stop of twenty-four hours. As the time came to 
 leave, many Japanese and Chinese came on board. The 
 gentleman above referred to, Mr. Rudolf Pavveck, whom 
 we found to be a friend, became our room-mate. Wc parted 
 for the last time at Joppa, Turkey. Many people were at 
 the port when the ship was about to leave. Natives came 
 with their strings of flowers and bouquets to sell to the pass- 
 engers, while the diving boys were in the water begging 
 the passengers to throw money in that they might dive and 
 get it. The twenty-four hours were spent by the passengers 
 in viewing the city and surrounding country, but now they 
 had all returned, and soon the ship weighed anchor and set 
 sail for Yokohama, Japan. 
 
FROM HONOLULU TO YOKOHAMA. 37 
 
 October 5. — Sea rough, and ship rocking, and at times 
 almost lying on its side. Many are seasick, but we have 
 not yet felt the effects very much. 
 
 October 6. — Sea very rough and winds high, affording 
 wonderful sights. Waves, mountain high, striking each 
 other and casting forth foam, looking like snow and ice 
 mountains, were to be seen. 
 
 Sunday, October 7. — Ship rolling from one side to the 
 other, keeping all the passengers in a continual swing. At 
 10 o'clock, P. M., the ship crossed the meridian, where 
 one day is dropped. By traveling around the world, ■ east- 
 ward, one day is gained, and as the meridian is crossed 
 going westward the day is dropped; so we all retired on 
 Sunday evening and awoke and arose on Tuesday morning, 
 and yet we had slept but nine hours. The evening was 
 spent in singing. 
 
 October 11. — The ship made good time, 319 miles in the 
 last twenty-four hours. I carried a recommendation from a 
 Chicago friend to a mission worker in China, and fortunately 
 happened to meet the gentleman in charge of that work, 
 on board the ship. We also met, among many others, the 
 Rev. and Mrs. N. S. Hopkins and Dr. and Mrs. Garwood, 
 the latter of Champaign, 111., with whom we formed very 
 acceptable acquaintances. We spent many pleasant hours 
 together, both on the ship and in Japan, Egypt and Jeru- 
 salem, where we met for the last time. 
 
 October 15. — Arrived within about fifteen miles of 
 Yokohama at 8, P. M., where we anchored and waited for 
 the morning, as no ship is allowed to enter after a certain 
 hour in the evening, on account of the torpedo lines and war 
 trouble. A splendid supper was served, and among other 
 things we had turtle soup, which was quite a rare dish for 
 many of us. It seemed like a wedding feast, thanks 
 
38 
 
 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 to the generosity of the steam ship company. The next 
 morning the ship drew near the port, and small boats 
 came in large numbers to convey the poorer class to shore, 
 while the other passengers were taken ashore by the steam 
 launch. It was rainy and many of the natives were nearly 
 naked, and so exposed to the rain and cold that they looked 
 pitiful. We all found good quarters at the different hotels, 
 and, for one, we felt grateful to God for our safe and 
 successful voyage. 
 
 JAPANESE CONVEYANCE. 
 
 (Original I'hoto. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 Yokohama and Kamakura. 
 main sea port — jinkikishas— kamakura — gods of war— ual- 
 
 BUTSU — DIMENSIONS OF THIS IDOL — GODDESS OF MERCY — 
 
 "WHERE IS YOUR GOD?"— "I SEE IT" — "LEARN TO 
 
 KNOW THYSELF." 
 
 APAN is a nice country with its tidy buildings. 
 Yokohama is the place where most visitors 
 first touch Japanese soil. It is the largest of 
 the treaty ports and practically the port of 
 Tokio, the seat of government. It is a matter of great inter- 
 est to see the natives in their singular costumes. They are 
 very polite in offering their services with their jinrikishas, 
 two wheeled vehicles drawn by coolies, in which they will 
 take you on short notice to any desired point. 
 
 The distance from Yokohama to Kamakura is about 
 twenty-two miles, and is reached partly by train and then by 
 coolies and their jinrikishas. The writer made this trip in 
 company with several others and it was his first experience 
 with the jinrikishas. The roads were miserable and at first 
 it seemed like cruelty to have the natives draw us through 
 the muddy streets, but we afterwards learned that it is con- 
 sidered by them a very honorable means of obtaining a 
 livelihood. The roads were indeed so poor that at times all 
 of us, five in number, were compelled to get out and walk. 
 The chief attractions at Kamakura are the Temple of Hachi- 
 man, the Daibutsu or "Colossal bronze Buddha" and the 
 great image of the goddess Kwannon. 
 
40 
 
 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 The Temple of Hachiman contains the Gods of War, 
 which are two in number. These idols are situated on either 
 side of the main entrance to the temple, and present a fright- 
 ful appearance. We noticed that they were spotted all over, 
 and looked very filthy, as though fowls had been roosting 
 over them. We were informed by our dragoman that this 
 was on account of the war at that time being carried on with 
 China. The Japanese, before a'oins: to war, come here to 
 
 
 
 
 
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 offer prayers to these idols. They write their prayers on 
 paper, and then, after chewing them into a cud, throw them 
 at the idol, aiming to make them stick, in which case they 
 take it for granted that their God of War will answer their 
 prayers. It reminds one of the mischievous school boy of 
 our 3'outhful days, chewing his paper wads and throwing 
 them against the ceiling. We learned that the Japanese are 
 highly delighted with their god, as the supposed means of 
 their success in the war with China. 
 
JAPAN.— DAIBUTSU. 
 
 41 
 
 The great Daibutsu or Great Buddha stands out promi- 
 nently among Japanese works of art. Nothing else gives 
 such an impression of majesty or so, truly symbolizes the 
 
 , ^M«8«^*N«*''A*aii'W^'' v..** . 
 
 DAIBUTSU. 
 
 (Original Photo.) 
 
 central idea of Buddhism— the intellectual calm which comes 
 of perfected knowledge and the subjugation of all passions. 
 But to be fully appreciated, the Daibutsu must be visited 
 many times, says Murry's Guide Book. 
 
Height, 
 
 49 ft. 
 
 7 in. 
 
 Circumference, - - 
 
 97 ft. 
 
 2 in. 
 
 Length of face, - - 
 
 8 ft. 
 
 5 in. 
 
 Width from ear to ear, 
 
 17 ft. 
 
 9 in. 
 
 Bound white boss on 
 
 
 
 forehead, - - - 
 
 1ft. 
 
 3 in. 
 
 Length of eye, - - - 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 11 in. 
 
 Length of eyebrows. 
 
 4 ft. 
 
 2 in. 
 
 Length of ear, - - 
 
 6 ft. 
 
 6 in. 
 
 Length of nose, - - 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 9 in. 
 
 Width of mouth, - - 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 2 in. 
 
 42 AEOUI^^D THE GLOBE. 
 
 DIMENSIONS OF DAIBUTSU. 
 
 Height of bump of 
 
 wisdom, - - - - 9 in. 
 
 Diameter of bump of 
 
 wisdom, - - - - 2 ft. 4 in. 
 Curls, (of which there 
 
 are 830,) height, - 9 in. 
 
 Diameter, - - - - l ft. 
 Length from knee to 
 
 knee, - - - - - 35 ft. 8 in. 
 Circumference of the 
 
 thumb, - - - - 3 ft. 
 
 The eyes are of pure gold and the silver balls weigh 
 30 lbs. Avoir. The image is formed of sheets of bronze 
 casts, brazed together and finished on the outside with the 
 chisel. The hollow interior of the image contains a small 
 shrine, and a ladder leads up into the head. The writer 
 ascended into the head of the image on this ladder and can 
 truly say, the idols made by the hands of men have eyes, but 
 they see not; they have ears, but they hear not; they have 
 hands, but they cannot reach out and help the subjects who 
 trust in them. Many come and go but none are benefited 
 and yet it seems the natives remain zealous and very much in 
 earnest in their mode of worship. We prayed with the dying 
 missionary, who wore his life away in the interest of the 
 natives in that country. His last prayer, as seen on his 
 tombstone, was "God save the Japanese." 
 
 In the Temple of Kwannon stands the great image of the 
 Goddess of Mercy, for which this temple is celebrated. It 
 stands behind folding doors, which a small fee, to the attend- 
 ing priest, will suffice to open. The priest will first rap at 
 the doors, pretending to awake the idol, and then the doors 
 are opened ; but the figure can only be indistinctly seen by 
 the dim light of a few candles. It is a large image, gilded 
 
(Taken from Photo.) 
 
 TURKISH FESTAL DAY. 
 
 Take Thou my hand and lead me — 
 
 Choose Thou my way. 
 Not as I will, O Father, teach me to say. 
 What though the storms may gather. 
 
 Thou knowest best; 
 Safe in Thy keeping, Father, wordd I rest. 
 
i 
 
 i 
 
A TEMPLE AT KYOTO. 45 
 
 over, and is thirty feet and five inches high. Oh, how sad to 
 think that these people are so ignorant of the real God. 
 
 An educated Japanese said to me, " I would like your 
 religion, but I can't understand your God nor where He is." 
 We had a long talk with him on the subject, r; explaining how 
 a will or a testament made by a father previous to his death, 
 is after his death read and brought into execution. We asked 
 him " Who is speaking when the will is read." He said at 
 once, " The father of the family," "So it is with God and 
 His word," said I. "It is God speaking to us through His 
 word or testament, as the deceased father, and we are to 
 become obedient to Him." He then said, " I see it, I see it," 
 and further said, "I will become a Christian. Oh, may the 
 Lord lead many of those active young men to Himself through 
 the Christian influence and efforts put forth by the so-called 
 Christian world. 
 
 There are many sights that are very impressive. Men 
 and women bow and worship, and bring their tithes and 
 throw them into their cash box, while others are reading and 
 watching the visitors very closely. We noticed a young 
 woman walking around in one of the temples and clapping 
 her hands as though she was very happy. 
 
 On entering one of the temples at Kyoto, into which 
 you are admitted by paying a small fee, a curtain is lifted 
 and you stand in front of a large mirror, where you see no 
 one but yourself and the inscription on the mirror, "Man, 
 learn to know thyself." O, what a lesson to be learned from 
 that inscription. Instead of decorating this body and culti- 
 vating the pride of the heart, and the carnal inclinations of 
 the natural man, " Learn to know thyself.'''' 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 TOKIO. 
 
 A missionary's statement — THE WAR SPIRIT — SHAVEN EYEBROWS 
 AND BLACKENED TEETH — VISITS THROUGH TOKIO— JAPANESE 
 DINNER WITH CHOPSTICKS — WOMEN BOUGHT AND SOLD — 
 LEGALIZED PROSTITUTION — BATH ROOMS — CRE- 
 MATORY — PRODUCTS — FUJIYAMA MANNER OF 
 CONSTRUCTING BUILDINGS— CEMETER- 
 IES — IDOLS— WOMEN AS SLAVES. 
 
 T is stated by certain missionaries that their 
 work is making slow progress, because a na- 
 tional feeling has grown up against it. 
 The natives rather feel as though they 
 could do their own mission work, and carry it on 
 without foreign help; but all the missionaries are convinced 
 that it would soon drift back into Buddhism. While the 
 war with China was raging and a great war spirit was being 
 shown by all the natives, the attendance at the missions, on 
 an average, was very small. In a large meeting which the 
 writer attended, the natives were holding a religious 
 service in their own language, and indeed they manifested 
 quite an earnestness, judging from their singing. 
 
 All Japanese leave their sandals at the door before they 
 enter a place of worship, and before entering their homes. 
 It is considered very impolite to step on their matresses 
 with shoes on the feet. 
 
JAPAN.— CUSTOMS IN TOKIO. 
 
 47 
 
 It was noticed that some of the women had their teeth 
 blackened and eyebrows shaven. We were informed that 
 these were married women, and that they do this to avoid the 
 attraction of men. The single women do not have this 
 distinction. 
 
 In company with Rev. Paul D. Berger of the American 
 Presbyterian Mission, we took a trip to Tokio, the capital, 
 and called at different missions, among others that of the 
 Evangelical Association of America, where we found some 
 
 JAPANESE DINNER. 
 
 (Original Photo.) 
 EATING MACARONI. 
 
 dear brethren, and indeed it seemed to me like home. Rev. 
 G. E. Dienst is a dear Christian worker, and we believe he, 
 with his dear wife and children, has the work at heart. 
 In a later call we spent some time with them and were 
 permitted to attend service with them in their church, 
 although we could not imderstand anything in their lan- 
 guage. We were also happy to meet with Rev. T. W. Foe- 
 geline, the Presiding Elder of that district. Our prayer is 
 that God may bless them in their labors, as they have strong 
 
48 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 opposition to contend with, and besides this, they have left 
 many friends in their native country and denied themselves 
 the luxury of a home foi* the sake of Christ and the salvation 
 of the poor heathen. We were permitted to spend one day 
 with Rev. Dienst in and about the city, visiting points of 
 interest. 
 
 Indeed the city is quite different from those in our 
 country. There are many little shops and their keepers are 
 very polite, as they sit on their mattresses and invite 
 strangers in. We stopped together at a Japanese inn, but 
 the accommodations were not fully as satisfactory to us as 
 those of our American hotels. They have neither chairs nor 
 tables, but sit on mattresses. We anxiously waited for 
 something to eat. Rev. Dienst called again and again for our 
 meal which we finally received. We had nothing but chop- 
 sticks with which to eat, and as we were not accustomed to 
 their use, we had considerable trouble in eating. The best 
 we could do was to lick our chopsticks. The natives at last 
 took pity on us and brought us spoons with which to eat 
 eggs. They did all in their power to make the meal pleasant 
 and agreeable. 
 
 We visited the crematory where nineteen bodies were 
 being cremated, and although it was horrible to look upon, 
 yet it was much better than the mode we afterward saw 
 employed in India. 
 
 The worst feature of Japanese social life is the business 
 of houses of ill fame and prostitution, licensed and protected 
 by the government. Certain portions of the city are set 
 apart for this purpose. We were informed that 2,500 girls 
 in one part of the city are licensed prostitutes, and that 
 there are a number of such designated localities in the city. 
 
 Girls are sold by their parents, and men buy them and 
 speculate on them, having places where they exhibit them 
 
 I 
 
'tt^meii'W'mmm . 
 
JAPA^.— MIYANOSHITA. 
 
 51 
 
 by the hundreds, as our merchants exhibit goods in their 
 display windows. They are finely dressed and made to 
 appear just as attractive as possible; then their owners go 
 out on the streets and solicit for them. O, what a sad 
 condition of affairs! We were informed that it is not con- 
 sidered so low and immoral by them as it is by us in America, 
 and the fact that we put a higher estimate on female virtue, 
 is, without doubt, due to the influence of Christianity. 
 
 
 ^^■H 5:i! = ' 
 
 
 
 ^-ti'^ 
 
 1^ ""- -/^v M''l^i<^^#-^''i<^gB 
 
 (Original Photo.) 
 MIYANOSHITA, HOT SPRINGS AND BATH HOUSES. 
 
 Noticing a bath room as we passed along the streets 
 in company with our guide and several Americans, we saw 
 that the front of it was open to such an extent that all who 
 traveled the streets could see that men and women were 
 together in the same bath room. There were about ten or 
 fifteen of both sexes in the room at the same time in a state 
 
52 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 of nudity, engaged in bathing and rubbing each other down. 
 We were informed that such was the custom in that country 
 and no one thinks evil of it. In approaching some of the 
 hotels, especially in Miyanoshita, which is a very prominent 
 place in Japan, women come and, for a small fee, offer to 
 shampoo you, which consists of stripping the clothes from 
 the bodies of their subjects, washing and rubbing them, and 
 
 JAPANESE JINRIKISHA AND TEA HOUSE. {Original Photo.) 
 
 applying friction to the extremities. This is considered 
 proper, and is attended with no evil or impure thoughts or 
 motives. Hence it requires presence of mind, purpose of 
 heart and combined firmness to resist the evils with which 
 one comes in contact. Japanese may have as many wives as 
 they can support. These they can purchase for about 100 
 to 200 yen each, we were informed. 
 
 As the war was raging, many military movements could 
 be observed. Cavalry, infantry and artillery, together with 
 
JAPAN.— ITS PRODUCTS. 
 
 53 
 
 provision trains, were seen moving toward the battle fields. 
 The country was in a general stir, and the natives were 
 anxious to learn with which side the strangers were sym- 
 pathizing. Children were parading the streets and shouting, 
 while many pictures were exhibited giving illustrations and 
 diagrams of battle fields. Many looked upon strangers with 
 suspicion. 
 
 JAPANESE MODE OF GREETING. 
 
 (Original Photo.) 
 
 The Japanese are very polite and sociable in their com- 
 munication with each other. When they meet they do not 
 shake hands as we do, but bow very low two or three times, 
 and in a most graceful manner, as shown in the illustration. 
 
 The country in general is rather mountainous, but in 
 the valleys and on the plains the land is very productive. 
 The principal products are tea, rice, wheat, buckwheat 
 
54 
 
 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 and some Indian corn, while vegetables grow in abundance. 
 There are various kinds of fruit in Japan, but they are 
 entirely of a different quality from either ours or those of 
 the tropics. Women, as well as men, are seen out in the 
 fields gathering rice, which is sometimes tied in tree-tops 
 in order to have it out of the reach of water, that it may be- 
 come dry and cured. 
 
 TEA PLANTATION. (Taken from Photo.) 
 
 Men and women carry almost everything on their heads 
 in baskets. Even dirt and stone are carried in this way. 
 It is stated that while their railroad was being constructed, 
 the company introduced the wheelbarrow; but the natives 
 would not use it, until urged upon; even then one would take 
 hold of the handles while another took hold of the wheel, 
 and in this way they carried the dirt out on the dump. 
 Nothing is seen of our manner of cultivating the soil. The 
 ground is mostly grubbed and spaded. 
 
JAPAN.— FUJIYAMA. 
 
 55 
 
 From almost any point on the island, by looking up, 
 one will be able to see Fujiyama, the great goddess of Japan. 
 The peak is 12,365 feet above the sea level, and is covered 
 with snow during the entire year. Some distance from 
 Fujiyama are other smaller peaks, one of which has a smoky 
 appearance, caused by the numerous hot springs. Some of 
 these peaks are covered with grass, others with small timber, 
 and a few with brush, all plainly visible to the eye in going 
 
 jO/ lyi/uil I'holu.) 
 JAPANESE DRAY. — FUJIYAMA IN THE DISTANCE. 
 
 from Miyanoshita toward Fuji. It being the fall of the year, 
 the leaves were changing their color, and it was indeed 
 a beautiful sight. Japan is claimed by many to be the most 
 scenic and wonderfully picturesque country in the world. 
 Many things there are too mysterious for man to understand. 
 The country and people are so different from our own. 
 Different methods are employed in doing their work. In 
 
56 
 
 AEOUIsTD THE GLOBE. 
 
 building houses, they frequently begin at the roof and then 
 build downward. Noticing a two-story building in course 
 of erection, we saw that the workmen first put up a scaffold, 
 upon which they built the upper floors and the roof. That 
 being completed, they began to work on the foundation. 
 The native carpenters draw the plane and saw toward them; 
 yet they are fine mechanics and their work is very nicely 
 done when completed. 
 
 \ Original Photo.) 
 STREET SCENE, SHOWING ENGLISH CHURCH, YOKOHAMA. 
 
 Their cemeteries present, to Americans, an unusual 
 appearance, the graves being so close together. 'J he Japan- 
 ese bury their dead in an upright posture, in a box about 
 two feet square and four feet long. Sometimes the poorer 
 classes are buried in barrels. In the European and American 
 cemeteries in Japan it is different. Monuments can be seen 
 
JAPANESE IDOLS. 
 
 57 
 
 to mark the resting places of missionaries, consuls and sea- 
 men, with inscriptions stating the nationality of the de- 
 ceased. Whenever you look into the cemeteries you may 
 see that which is likely to move the heart with sympathy. 
 How little do 
 
 our own Amer- 
 ean people ap- 
 preciate the 
 blessings of liv- 
 ing in such an 
 enlightened 
 Christian coun- 
 try where they 
 have the advan- 
 tages of early 
 instructions; 
 and, best of all, 
 where the true 
 and living God 
 is acknowledged 
 as the only God 
 to be worshiped. 
 Along the way 
 and at cross- 
 roads many little 
 images are seen 
 cut in stone and 
 other material, 
 many of them being no larger than a common-sized cat, in- 
 cluding various kinds of animals, such as foxes, cattle and 
 dogs. Instead of looking to such things made by the hands 
 
 {Original I'hoto.) 
 
 JAPANESE IDOL. 
 
58 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 of men, as they do, we look up to Him who smiles upon us, 
 O, blessed thought! How true we should be to Him and 
 how we should love and obey Him as His children. O, how 
 quickly these people should flee to Him! 
 
 This country is yet far from being brought to God. 
 There are many temples, and the natives are very loyal to 
 their gods and their mode of worship. This is a country 
 that is visited by thousands of people from all parts of the 
 world every year. The writer was able to learn many things 
 by coming in contact with a number of these visitors. 
 
 The natives work hard. Poor women, some of them 
 mothers, are out on the streets drawing carts so heavily 
 loaded that we would consider it impossible for the women 
 to move them. Some are half naked and are so poor that 
 they follow strangers a long distance for the purpose of 
 begging. Many poor, blind women are on the streets, sing- 
 ing their songs to attract attention, and offering their services 
 in any way by which they may earn a little money. 
 
 Some women carry their little children on their backs, and 
 in many cases they are like slaves, being compelled to do the 
 hardest kind of work, such as coaling the large ocean 
 steamers; but with all this they seem to be contented. How 
 grateful we should feel in our own grand country! Our 
 young people especially should be thankful for the privileges 
 and blessings which they enjoy. 
 
 Many European people are living in Japan. The 
 Clariden Hotel is a mission home where all ministers and 
 missionaries are granted special rates of two yen per day^ 
 
 I 
 
{Urtyi./iuJ. I'liulij.j 
 RUINS OF ST. JOHN'S CHURCH, EPHESUS. 
 
 "We are living, we are dwelling, 
 
 In a grand, and awful time; 
 In an age on ages telling — 
 
 To be living is sublime. 
 Hark! the waking up of nations, 
 
 Gog and Magog to the fray; 
 Hark ! what soundeth ? Is creation 
 
 Groaning for her latter day ?" 
 
CHAPTER YII. 
 
 Kobe, Nagasaki and Hong Kong. 
 
 widowed mother and child— kobe— inland sea— nagasaki- 
 CITY OF THE DEAD — CHILD TAKEN FROM ITS MOTHER- 
 WAR VESSELS — SERVICES ON BOARD SHIP — 
 HONG KONG — SEAMEN'S MISSION — 
 STREET SIGHTS. 
 
 N Saturday, November 10th, we started by ship 
 for Kobe and Nagasaki, boarding the ship An- 
 cona. Peninsular & Oriental line. We found 
 W^y^^^^"^ good quarters for the voyage. My attention 
 was soon attracted to a woman who came aboard dressed in 
 mourning, accompanied by a child, apparently about six 
 years of age. Both the lady and child were pleasant and 
 talkative, and we soon learned that the father, mother and 
 child had come from India to Japan for a change of climate 
 and for the father's health. While on the way the father, 
 Mr. F. A. Nalor (an English officer in India), took a severe 
 cold, which resulted in a more serious attack in Yokohama, 
 from the effects of which he afterwards died, leaving the 
 mother and child to return alone to their former home. The 
 little girl took a fancy to the writer and asked her mother, 
 " May I give Mr. Lambert a kiss? I have no pa to kiss any- 
 more." The mother said, "O my child, don't talk so." The 
 scene was touchino-. As we were on the same vessel for a 
 
62 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 long distance, Mrs. Nalor repeatedly related to us her sad 
 experience in Japan, which deeply aroused our sympathy for 
 herself and child. 
 
 We arrived at Kobe, where we again met some of those 
 with whom we had crossed the Pacific, and spent some time 
 in visiting the mountains and temples along the seacoast. 
 
 Leaving Kobe we sailed through the Inland Sea, with 
 its magnificent scenery, small islands and narrow straits, 
 guided all along the way by its numerous light-houses. In 
 the night it reminded us of sailing over the sea of time, and 
 the dangers to which all are exposed, but, as the poet says, 
 " There are lights along the shore." The great flash light is 
 Jesus the Savior of the world, who lights the way and keeps 
 us in the proper course, thus preventing ship-wreck. 
 
 Upon arrival at Nagasaki, November 16th, we found that 
 it was a grand place. The bay is surrounded with beautiful 
 mountain scenery. Many cemeteries are seen on all sides, 
 giving it the appearance of a city of the dead. Here many 
 Christians were massacred. Here again women were en- 
 gaged in coaling the ships. 
 
 Before leaving Nagasaki we saw a small party on deck, 
 consisting of a Chinaman, his Japanese wife and child, and 
 his wife's mother. When the signal was given for all the 
 passengers to get aboard, and for all those who were not 
 passengers to go ashore, the Chinaman took charge of the 
 child, while the two women, weeping, went on shore. We 
 were afterwards informed that the Chinaman had, besides his 
 Japanese wife in Nagasaki, a wife and family in Hong Kong, 
 China, where he was engaged in business. It was his cus- 
 tom to take the children of his Japanese wife to his Chinese 
 family in Hong Kong. What would our American mothers 
 
SERVICES ON SHIPBOARD. 
 
 63 
 
 think of such treatment? The child, which was about eigh- 
 teen months old, caused the father much trouble, day and 
 night, during the voyage, although it was given the most 
 watchful attention. We sighted several large war vessels 
 , _ during this voy- 
 
 age, looking 
 after the inter- 
 ests of their re- 
 spective govern- 
 ments. 
 
 In the even- 
 ing card-playing 
 was introduced 
 in which we 
 
 1^!^^' 
 
 were requested 
 to take part but 
 refuse d, and 
 soon a religious 
 service was in 
 progress, con- 
 sisting of talk- 
 ing and singing. 
 Sunday, No- 
 vember 19. — A 
 ij; pleasant day. 
 .orUJu^al Fkoto.) ^e wcre rc- 
 
 JAPANESE WORSHIP. q U C S t C d t O 
 
 preach to the passengers and consented. Soon the dining 
 room was prepared, and a pulpit, with the English flag 
 covering it, was arranged. The Lord assisted us in recom- 
 mending Him as the chief of all, and we had a good time. 
 
64 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Upon arriving at Hong Kong, we spent some time in 
 visiting. The war was raging and there was no encourage- 
 ment to go north or into the interior. Troops were expected 
 and therefore not much time was spent at tliis point. 
 
 Hong Kong is an English colony. Many Europeans are 
 doing business here. There are also many Chinamen here, 
 but since the pestilence of 1894, some of the Chinese houses 
 are not occupied, and even a few of the streets are closed. In 
 the evening a steam launch went from one ship to another to 
 take passengers to the Seamen's Mission, free of cost. A 
 number of us availed ourselves of this privilege. It was not 
 strictly religious, rather more of the nature of a concert, and 
 we considered it rather degrading. It was a Christian mis- 
 sion simply in name and not in reality. 
 
 Throughout the city, women were seen sitting on the sides 
 of the streets, sewing, knitting and washing. In fact all kinds 
 of work is done on the streets. Tinners, blacksmiths, and 
 shoemakers were seen sitting along the walks, working at 
 their trades. 
 
 Many of the women can scarcely walk, their feet being 
 cramped and no larger than those of a child; fortunately, 
 however, the law at present prohibits deforming the feet as 
 of old, yet it requires labor and time to reform them from 
 their ancient customs. 
 
 We attended a heathen service, where the offering to the 
 idol consisted of a pig, weighing eighty or a hundred pounds, 
 and two fowls. These were roasted and placed in a standing 
 position, with their mouths wide open toward a burning 
 light. Near them were several dishes of eatables. One of 
 the priests was engaged in reading and another in burning 
 
CIIIKA.-HOKG KOKG. 
 
 65 
 
 incense, the two turning alternately to the idol and the offer- 
 ings. Two attendants played small timbrels while another 
 blew a small fife. 
 
 Looking into their meat markets as we passed along the 
 streets, it was noticed that the carcasses of animals were 
 roasted whole, and that the meat, when sold to customers, 
 was ready to be eaten. 
 
 At Hong Kong all passengers for Singapore and Co- 
 lombo were transferred to another ship. 
 
 LIGI^T nOUSE. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Singapore and Colombo. 
 
 SERVICES ON BOARD SHIP— SINGAPORE — SEA SHELLS — ALL KINDS 
 
 OF WORK DONE ON THE STREETS — CHATS WITH PEOPLE 
 
 OF DIFFERENT NATIONALITIES — POOR MEALS — 
 
 MISSION SERVICE — PENANG — ISLAND OF 
 
 SUMATRA — COLOMBO. 
 
 E left for Singapore on the 23d of November. 
 Sunday, November 25. — It was becoming very 
 warm, as we were going southward. Services 
 were held on board in the forenoon, and also 
 in the evening. By request of the crew, we spoke to them 
 in the evening and the time was spent quite pleasantly. A 
 missionary lady also took part in the services. It is hoped 
 some good impressions were made. 
 
 We arrived at Singapore November 27th and found a 
 good home for $1.00 per day. This is a very warm country, 
 only 80 miles from the equator. Nearly all here are dressed 
 in white and have special hats to protect them from sun- 
 stroke. The inhabitants represent about all nationalities. 
 Many of the Indians are naked, with the exception of 
 something about the loins. They seem to be very poor. The 
 natives use the Japanese jinrikishas here. There are also 
 many one-horse carriages used here, but the heaviest loads 
 are drawn by bullocks. They look very much like our 
 
SINGAPORE.— STKEET SCENES. 
 
 67 
 
 Jersey cattle, with the exception ot the humps on their necks 
 and their very straight horns. 
 
 Many sea-shells of all kinds, shapes, sizes and colors are 
 brought to this point by the natives, and offered for sale to 
 strangers. It is almost impossible to walk along the side- 
 walks because of the many who are working and transacting 
 all kinds of business ; others carry loads of goods on their 
 backs and we have even seen some carry hot stoves in this 
 
 (Original Photo.) 
 TWO SEATED JINRIKISHA SHOWING COOLIE WITH STRAW CAPE. 
 
 manner, setting them down at different places and baking 
 pan cakes to sell. Others heat their flat irons on the side- 
 walks, and create a smoke which is very unpleasant. Time 
 passes more quickly when one can meet with people of differ- 
 ent nationalitiei, as is the case here, and have a chat with a 
 
68 
 
 AEOUKD THE GLOBE. 
 
 German, a Russian, an Irishman, a Scotchman, or an Eng- 
 lishman. Many soldiers and warships were here. 
 
 The meals in this country are not very appetizing to an 
 American. The landlady asked us why we did not eat, and 
 was told that we were not hungry ; but the fact was, the 
 meals were not good enough to. make one hungry. To en- 
 courage us she said, "I do my own cooking and it is very 
 good." As a general thing Chinamen are the cooks. She said, 
 
 {Taken Ji 
 
 AN ORIENTAL BURDEN BEARER 
 
 " Do you like macaroni soup? Macaroni soup is very good, 
 just wait till dinner and you will sec. I will cook it myself." 
 But during the time that the soup was being prepared, she 
 was going in and out, attending to it so as to make it very 
 good. She would come into the sitting room and sitting on 
 the sofa in a half reclining position would call the dog to her, 
 and, parting his hair, pick off the fleas, lice, nits, etc. , that 
 were on his body, and throw them on the floor, and then was 
 
SINGAPOKE.— MISSION SEEVICES. 69 
 
 off to the kitchen to see after the soup. Does the reader 
 blame us for not eating macaroni soup under such circum- 
 stances? Such is life in the Orient at many places, for 
 indeed, this is not the only locality where such things occur. 
 
 We visited here some of the missions, as well as the 
 Methodist church, where we enjoyed a very good service. 
 The minister had for his text Rom. 1:16, " I am not ashamed 
 of the gospel of Christ," etc. He impressed upon his 
 hearers the importance of not being ashamed of Jesus. 
 Among other things he said. When we take each letter com- 
 posing the name Jesus as the beginning of a word we make 
 up the following sentence: "Just Exactly Suits Us Sinners;" 
 as to how true this is, every Christian heart can respond. 
 
 We also attended services at the cathedi-al on Sunday, 
 and although it is an immense building, yet only twenty-four 
 persons were present. There is much to be seen and heard, 
 yet sin and degradation prevail the world over. Surely the 
 world was lost in darkness and sin, but Jesus came to seek 
 and to save all. O, blessed thought! 
 
 December 12, The weather is very warm. We set sail 
 for Colombo, Ceylon, on the steamer Ravanna. On board 
 we met the American party, eight in number, under charge 
 of Prof. Clark, with which we had at different times traveled. 
 The ship's crew was a nice party, composed mostly of Eng- 
 lish people. We came up the strait of Malacca, which gave 
 us a splendid view of the country. The ship anchored for a 
 short time at Penang which gave our party the opportunity 
 of riding out several miles through the celebrated cocoanut 
 and banana groves. Many other tropical fruits are grown 
 here, and the profuse vegetation afforded us splendid sight- 
 seeing. We noticed that notches had been cut by the natives 
 
70 
 
 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 on both sides of many of the trees to facilitate climbing them 
 when gathering the fruit. 
 
 Leaving Penang we passed through the strait between 
 the Malay Peninsula and the island of Sumatra, where it is 
 said war has been raging for about twenty years, more or 
 less, between the Dutch and the natives. 
 
 We were now sailing on the Indian Ocean. The sea was 
 very calm and the weather warm. Nearly all tlie passengers 
 
 (Unyi/ud Jt'IkjIu). 
 BRISTOL HOTEL, COLOMBO, CEYLON. 
 
 and crew were dressed in white clothing and large sun hats. 
 We prepared our baggage to be forwarded, on the same ship, 
 to Bombay, to await our arrival there, while we changed for 
 Madras and Calcutta, India. 
 
 We arrived at Colombo, Ceylon, on the 18th of Decem- 
 ber. Here many large ocean steamers meet in the same 
 way that trains meet in our large union depots. One arrived 
 from London en route for China, while one was there from 
 
CEYLON.— COLOMBO. 
 
 71 
 
 China bound for London; one for Australia, and one to Aus- 
 tralia; and one for Calcutta. Though thousands of miles to 
 sail and in nearly all kinds of weather, these ships make their 
 time as the schedule requires. A wonderful system of navi- 
 gation is found on these long lines, and the greatest care and 
 the best accommodations are given to passengers. Ceylon is 
 noted for its cinnamon gardens. 
 
 The streets of Colombo are full of natives, with bullock- 
 carts loaded with various kinds of merchandise, anxious to 
 sell their o-oods. 
 
 A SCENE IN THE TROPICS. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Madras. 
 
 TRANSFERRED TO THE KHEDIVE — SAILING ON BAY OF BENGAL — 
 POPULATION OF MADRAS — SEAT OF GOVERNMENT — COMPARED 
 WITH OTHER NATIONS — NINETY TO NINETY-FIVE PER CENT. 
 POOR PEOPLE — WOMEN CARRYING BRICK AND MORTAR — 
 EAR, NOSE, AND NECK JEWELS — LOW WAGES — BUILD- 
 INGS — BUNGALS— HUTS— PENITENTIARY^ — AN 
 AMERICAN IN PRISON— DANGERS OF OUR 
 YOUNG PEOPLE. 
 
 ADRAS, India, was our next point. The 
 passeno;ers for this place were transferred to 
 the "Khedive," while those bound for other 
 points were taken to vessels sailing for the 
 several ports they desired to visit. 
 
 Our ship left Colombo for Madras and Calcutta on the 
 21st of December. A number of missionaries were on board. 
 We sailed north into the bay of Bengal and on the 24th of 
 December arrived at Madras. 
 
 Madras is the largest city in Southern India, is situated on 
 the coast, and is the seat of government of the Madras 
 Presidency. This territory contains 138,000 square miles and 
 is thickly populated. The native states of Cochin and Trav- 
 ancore occupy part of the south-western coast. The statistics 
 show that Cochin has an area of 1,361 square miles, more 
 than two-thirds of which is under cultivation, and contains 
 a population of 600,728. The average population per square 
 
MADEAS.— DENSITY OF POPULATION. 
 
 73 
 
 mile is 441; but in some parts it has as many as 1,430 per 
 square mile. The population consists of 429,324 Hindoos, 
 136,361 Christians, 33,344 Mohammedans, and 1,249 Jews. 
 Thus far the Christians comprise twenty-three per cent, of 
 the whole population. 
 
 The state of Travancore is the most important native 
 state in the government of Madras. It has an area of 6,722 
 square miles, about 4,000 square miles of which is cultivated, 
 
 MADRAS HARBOR AND PIER. 
 
 (Oi'iijinal I'/ioto.) 
 
 and has a population of nearly two and a half millions, 
 which gives an average of 357 to a square mile. There are 
 some places where the population per square mile is as dense 
 as 1,318, 1,170, and 1,135. More than one-fifth of the 
 population consists of Christians. 
 
 We Americans ought to be grateful to God for the 
 country He has given us and for the blessings we enjoy. No 
 wonder there are so many poor people (from ninety to 
 
74 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 ninety-five per cent.) in Southern India, and that they are 
 so zealous in soliciting alms. Many poor, aged and crippled 
 people are seen along the streets, crying and begging for 
 alms. Imagine in our state and country an average of 357 
 or 4:4:1, or, as in some districts, 1,430 inhabitants per square 
 mile; what would or could we do under such conditions? 
 These statistics were taken from the official book called 
 "Jubilee of the Queen Empress," and must, therefore, be 
 accepted as correct. Some of our readers may say, " What 
 is the population per square mile in the United States ? I 
 will give a table showing the density of population of differ- 
 ent countries, which will give us some idea of our noble 
 country, a better than which there is none. 
 
 India has from 357 to 441 per square mile. 
 England has - - - 312 per square mile. 
 Germany has - • 237 per square mile. 
 Belgium has - - - 540 per square mile. 
 U. S. including Alaska, 17 per square mile. 
 
 This ought to encourage the fathers, mothers and chil- 
 dren of this country, and make them loyal and patriotic, and 
 above all, grateful and obedient to God. The United States is 
 regarded by all the world as the grandest and greatest of all 
 countries, and as a mighty nation. 
 
 The streets are full of people and bullock-carts; natives 
 are poorly clad; women do hard work, such as carrying brick 
 and mortar up on high buildings, while others go about the 
 streets with baskets on their heads and pick up the droppings 
 of the bullocks, which are dried and used for fuel. The 
 natives keep and raise their little calves and bullocks on their 
 front porches. 
 
 The women wear as much jewelry as they can afford, in 
 their ears and noses and around their necks. Their ears are 
 
MADKAS.— CUSTOMS. 
 
 75 
 
 frequently torn by the rings coming in contact with some 
 object while the owners are at work. The jewels are replaced 
 by piercing new holes. Many of the native women carry 
 the entire possessions of their families in jewels, and when 
 a purchase is made, they pay the price of their purchase 
 in jewelry. 
 
 Many follow you and are anxious to do you service in 
 order to earn a few annas. Even a kind look and word is 
 
 MADRAS POST OFFICE. {Original Photo.) 
 
 highly appreciated. The wages are very^low, and the best 
 mechanics and leading contractors receive only from one 
 rupee to one rupee and two or four annas per day. The 
 common laborers are paid proportionately and there is not 
 much work to be had even at these wages. 
 
 BUILDINGS. 
 
 The buildings are mostly of brick, and a few buildings, 
 such as the High Court and Post Office, with flash lights in 
 
76 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 the spires, make a very fine appearance. The churches are 
 as fine as any, but they are without windows or glass, having 
 in their place blind-doors, which are opened during services. 
 They have large bungals in all the churches with which to 
 fan the congregation during services, in very warm weather, 
 the bimgal being operated by a coolie who sits on the out- 
 side and pulls the rope which is attached to it. As a general 
 thing churches and all buildings of any importance have a 
 large plot of ground around them planted with trees and 
 shrubs, with a large walk inclosing the whole premises. 
 Many of the best private houses are the same, and are mostly 
 one-story high, built of brick and plastered and often white- 
 washed. Many of them have a front projection, with heavy 
 round pillars underneath, which make a fine appearance. 
 Then there are other buildings of a poorer class, down to 
 the huts in which the natives live, in their part of town. The 
 roofs are principally made of clay-tile, as in all the Orient, 
 while others are thatched. 
 
 THE PENITENTIARY. 
 
 Rev. Shaw and myself made a visit to the penitentiary 
 in which, at this time, were about 800 convicts. We were 
 taken to the gallows, the whipping post, and the dark dun- 
 geons, where a number of prisoners are kept. We were 
 also shown the large tread mill, where many are put onto run 
 the machinery. The officer that was with us referred us to 
 an American that was among the convicts. Stepping up to 
 him and giving him my hand I said, "Are you an American?" 
 He answered, " Yes." I said, " What does this mean; you 
 an American, so far from home and in such a place? " The 
 young man, blushing, said, "When I was a boy I ran away 
 from home and went to sea and finally landed in India. 1 
 
MADEAS.— AN AMERICAN IN PRISON. 79 
 
 was unfortunate and became crippled. Afterwards I violated 
 the laws and now I must pay the penalty." I asked him 
 where he was from and he told me "Cincinnati, O." I asked, 
 "Is your father yet alive?" He answered, "As far as I 
 know, my father and mother are alive. My father is a man 
 of good standing in that city." I also asked him if his par- 
 ents knew that he was here, and he told me, " Not unless the 
 American consul has informed them, but I think not." He 
 showed sorrow and said, " O, if I had only stayed at home 1 
 would not be in such a place." I expressed my sympathies 
 for him and bade him good-bye. The officer then told me 
 his name and also the charges against him. The name was 
 Monbebars. There were two charges against him and he 
 therefore had to remain two terms, one of six months, and 
 the other of twelve mouths. He had already been there 
 three months. O, what lessons the young men and women 
 of this country should learn not to complain so soon of home, 
 of father and mother, and imagine they know more than their 
 parents. 
 
 Many of our young folks have good privileges and fine 
 educations, and yet they are not careful enough, sometimes 
 ignoring the advice of parents, thus doing them grievous 
 wrong. The young people of our land often look upon their 
 parents as old fogies in their views, and doings, and modes 
 of religious worship, but ah, how true that the old parents 
 and grandparents were much truer and better, and often 
 more honest than many of the present day. Children and 
 young people should remember the command: " Honor thy 
 father and thy mother: that thy days may be long upon the 
 land which the Lord thy Cod giveth thee," which is the first 
 commandment with promise. Exodus 20:12. 
 
CHAPTEE X. 
 
 MlSSION[j WOEK. 
 
 MISSIONARIES — $15.00 PER YEAR ] FURNISHES ALL — WHO WERE 
 
 THE MEN OF GOD — THEOSOPHY — MISSIONS — CASTES — 
 
 CHRISTMAS SONGS — MEETING OF MISSIONARIES — 
 
 REV. HALICHAM BANNAGEE. 
 
 MISSIONARY must understand the language 
 and dialect of the natives to the extent that 
 he is able to teach them the fundamental 
 principles of our religion. They say, " Where 
 is your God ? Show Him to us and we will believe." They 
 must be taught that there is a God, and that He is a re warder 
 of those who diligently seek Him. 
 
 Many of the natives are very intelligent and hold with 
 tenacity to their peculiar heathen views which must be sup- 
 planted by sound doctrines, if they are to be won for Christ. 
 To do this requires grace, knowledge and wisdom, and many 
 faithful workers have worn their lives away without seeing 
 much apparent result. This should not discourage others 
 from taking up the work where they have left off, especially 
 since we know that it has taken hundreds of years for some 
 other nations to become Christianized. It ought to be the 
 prayer of all Christian people of this country that God 
 would bless the mission work, and all those who labor therein 
 so faithfully. We ought to contribute in that direction all 
 we can and God will reward us for it. 
 
LEND A HELPING HAND. 
 
 81 
 
 We were informed by Rev. Gurnsay, of Madras, that 
 the chief and best method of converting the natives to our 
 Christian religion, is to get the children under Christian 
 influence, and to accomplish this end it requires more men 
 and more means. 
 
 One institution is working on the plan of taking native 
 children and keeping them under their influence until grown. 
 There are many from heathen families that can be had by 
 simply asking. A boy can be supported, clothed, fed, and 
 
 MADRAS CATAMARANS. 
 
 receive a good schooling for $15.00 per year. " O," said the 
 poor missionary, "if the rich people in America only knew 
 how much good they could do with a little money! If a man 
 would agree to furnish $15.00 per year, he or the missionaries 
 could select a bright young boy who would be kept and 
 taught the gospel until he was qualified for a good Christian 
 life, the child to be named after the man that furnishes the 
 
 6 
 
82 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 money for his education. For instance, if a child eight years 
 old were taken and kept, for ten years, at a cost of $150.00, 
 his benefactor would then have a boy, or rather a man, bear- 
 ing his own name and working for God in a dark heathen 
 country. Ought not such things attract the attention of our 
 Christian people and should not every one ask: "What can 
 I do both at home and in foreign lands for my fallen 
 brethren ? " 
 
 There are many from our country here, husbands, wives 
 and children, laboring for the Lord. It appears that many 
 live too high to reach the poor people, while others are right 
 amongst them. As a certain missionary said: " O, I am 
 married to this country and this people. Many look at these 
 people as though they were ignorant, and incapable of being 
 taught." Referring to Bible subjects and to many prominent 
 Bible characters, he asked the question, " Who were the}^?" 
 The answer came, "Asiatics; and what other nations now 
 are, is largely due to what Asia gave them, long, long 
 ago." How true this is. 
 
 One thing is threatening the success of the Christian 
 work here and that is the doctrine of Theosophy, I heard 
 Mrs. Besant, an American lady of great talent and influence, 
 lecture among the Hindoos on that subject. She declared it 
 to be the coming religion, comparing the eastern castes 
 with the western classes, and made a strong impression on 
 the natives. 
 
 It appears that the world is open for the gospel, and 
 those poor people long to be led and helped, and when we see 
 that they indeed are in need of help, in every way, it moves 
 the heart with compassion. There are some that will fall at 
 your feet, kiss your shoes, and beg for a little rice to satisfy 
 
CHRISTMAS EVE IN MADEAS, 
 
 83 
 
 their hunger. The question comes, What can be done for 
 such ? • 
 
 There are many mission societies in Madras, and great 
 efforts are being put forth to convert the natives to Chris- 
 tianity. 
 
 The natives appear very clever and intelligent, many of 
 them having but one view regarding religious worship. They 
 
 are divided into 
 castes and are 
 nearly all known 
 i by their caste 
 m ark o n the 
 forehead. Most 
 of them are 
 poorly clad, and 
 indeed many are 
 almost naked. 
 We had the priv- 
 ilege of attend- 
 ing some of their 
 religious meet- 
 ings, and they 
 appear very 
 rvirnest in their 
 different forms 
 of worship. 
 On Christmas 
 oriiiiaai vuoto.) ^yg ^ numbcr of 
 
 Hindoo boys, in 
 small companies, marched through the town singing songs. 
 Next morning, about three or four o'clock, we heard music, 
 
 OOOLIE GIRL. 
 
84 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 and upon inquiry, were told that it was the custom of the 
 Christian people to go through the streets of that large city 
 on Christmas night, singing merry Christmas songs, an- 
 nouncing that a Savior is born. We listened, and listened, 
 and it lifted our thoughts heavenward. Our thoughts then 
 reverted to the Christian customs of the people in our own 
 land; how indifferent many of them are! Here the Christian 
 people are very earnest and enthusiastic, and are using their 
 lives for God and His cause. We were informed that on 
 Christmas night nearly all the churches call their singers out 
 to sing in memory of the angels. 
 
 We attended a number of the services of the different 
 churches here which were very good. The Salvation Army 
 is also doing much in this country, and it is claimed by many 
 that the most effectual work done here is done by them. 
 
 It was a source of pleasure to meet a number of our 
 country men and women in the mission field, among whom 
 were Rev. King, Rev. Gurnsay, and Rev. J. W. West of 
 Ohio; Miss Ida Skimmer from Oregon, and Miss Penny of 
 Valparaiso, Ind. These noble Christian workers have left 
 their homes and comforts for Jesus' sake. On one occasion, 
 while 1 was eating supper, five persons, three gentlemen and 
 two ladies, came in and took seats. They were busily engaged 
 in conversation, and after the meal was eaten I excused my- 
 self and went to my room. After I had left they inquired 
 of the landlord who I was and to what nationality I belonged. 
 When they learned that I was an American, they sent 
 for me and I soon found that they were all Americans: Rev. 
 Newcomer and wife, from Shelby ville, Ind., Rev. Frank and 
 wife, from Lafayette, Ind., and Rev. Fuller, of Boston, 
 Mass. I also met Rev. Shaw and family, who were on their 
 
REV. HALICHAM BANNAGEE. 
 
 85 
 
 way back to America. Such meetings with Christian people, 
 in a foreign land, are very highly appreciated; and those dear 
 missionaries will never be forgotten. 
 
 We were permitted to listen to a native minister by the 
 name of Rev. Halicham Bannagee. There was a large 
 attendance at this meeting. His subject was taken from 
 Isaiah, '"''I saw the Lord.'''' It was an able and an interesting 
 discourse, and it is hoped that the good seed so earnestly 
 s)wn will grow until all his hearers may see the Lord. 
 
 (Original Photo.) 
 
 WOMEN CLEANING HEADS. 
 
 Many of the American and European missionaries are 
 dressed in native costumes. It is said men wear their hair 
 long to gain the confidence of the natives. O, how simple 
 and Christ-like it looks to see them stoop down and sit 
 together with these people in humility, having all things in 
 common. 
 
86 
 
 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 It is no small position to be a missionary in these dark 
 countries. In our own enlightened, Christian country, if 
 one can sing, pray and talk to the people, he may be able to 
 do a great deal of good, because there are but very few peo- 
 ple that do not at least theoretically believe in one God and 
 in Jesus Christ as the Savior of the world ; but in heathen 
 countries it is different. 
 
 'NINETY TO NINETY-FIVE PER CENT. ARE POOR PEOPLE. 
 
 Have pity on them, for their life 
 
 Is full of grief and care; 
 You do not know one-half the woes 
 
 The very poor must bear; 
 You do not see the silent tears 
 
 By many a mother shed, 
 As childhood offers up the prayer— 
 
 "Give us oiir daily bread." 
 
#*J 
 
 ( Taken from Photo.) 
 TPIE FIELD OF BLOOD, OR VALLEY OF HINNOM. 
 
 No action, whether foul or fair. 
 Is ever done, but it leaves somewhere 
 A record, written by fingers ghostly 
 As a blessing or a curse; and mostly 
 In the greater weakness or greater strength 
 Of the acts which follow it; till at length 
 The wrongs of ages are redressed. 
 And the justice of God made manifest. 
 —Longfellow. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Madras to Calcutta. 
 
 meeting the american party — services on board — iiugli 
 
 RIVER — THE IMMENSE WASH OF THE HUGLI — SAGAR 
 
 ISLAND— DANGEROUS PASSAGE — JUNGLES — 
 
 MET MANY SHIPS AND BOATS — 
 
 CALCUTTA. 
 
 UNDAY, January 6, 1895, we left Madras for 
 Calcutta, taking passage on the ship Mirza- 
 pore, and again met the party of Ameri- 
 cans on board. Services were held on the 
 ship, at which time some singing was done which was very 
 encouraging to all. The sea was quite calm while sailing up 
 the bay of Bengal. Our vessel was one of the largest steam- 
 ers on these waters, smaller boats being usually used for 
 coast trips to and from points on the bay. 
 
 On January 8 we entered the channel of the Hugli river, 
 which is one of the outlets of the Ganges, and others of 
 the Hindoo, so-called sacred rivers. We are now 120 miles 
 from Calcutta. As we proceed up the river the water be- 
 comes very muddy. This is a very dangerous channel to 
 pass on account of the immense quantities of sediment being 
 continually deposited by the river, and on this account skill- 
 ful pilots are required to steer clear of the many obstructions. 
 It is estimated that it would require about 1,500 large ships 
 every day to carry the sand and earth that the Hugli takes to 
 
90 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 the sea. Hence, the hind is gradually drifting seaward. Ships 
 once wont forty miles above Calcutta, where now there is no 
 passage. The first land to be seen is a low strip forming the 
 southern boundary of Sagar island. The portion near the sea 
 consists of thick jungles and marshes, where tigers and other 
 wild beasts are numerous. 
 
 Once a year on this island a great bathing festival is 
 held, called Ganga Sagar, to commemorate the supposed 
 descent of the Ganges from heaven to restore to life the 
 nO,000 sons of King Sngan Hcr(>, too, mothers, in fulfiUment 
 
 
 THE nUGLI RIVER. 
 
 of VOWS, used to offer their young children to the Ganges to 
 be devoured by the crocodiles, until the practice was stopped 
 by the British government. The mouth of the Hugli river 
 is so wide that land cannot be seen on both sides at the same 
 time, but the channel gradually becomes narrower as we 
 proceed up stream. About forty miles from Calcutta is the 
 James and Mary, a dangerous shoal, caused by the sand 
 brought down by the Damodar and Rupnarayan rivers. If a 
 ship touches the bottom at this place, she is immediately 
 
APPROACHING CALCUTTA. 
 
 91 
 
 pushed over by the strong current. In the space of half an 
 hour even large ships have been known to almost disappear, 
 numbers of them having been lost. 
 
 The soil gradually becomes richer; trees, rice-fields, 
 palm and bamboo groves become common. At length the 
 port is reached. The long tiers of shipping, the fort rising 
 from the great Maidan, and the domes, steeples, and noble 
 public buildings of Calcutta beyond, gradually unfold their 
 beauty. The traveler really feels that he is approaching the 
 city of palaces. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Calcutta. 
 
 city of palaces— "a c4lobe trotter" — bathing in the sacred 
 
 river— mission service— burning gnatt— infant 
 
 weddings — widowhood ~ tombstone 
 
 of an american, and a 
 
 brother's words. 
 
 HIS is a large city, containing 840,130 inhab- 
 itants. Hiigli, across the river, united to 
 Calcutta by a floating bridge, contains 130,000 
 inhabitants. Many visitors are seen in this 
 city at the hotels in the evening. We were introduce<l 
 to an American "Globe Trotter," as they are frequently 
 called, whose name was Charles Randell, from New York. 
 The young man started on the 26th of January, 1894, to 
 make a tour around the world on foot, in two years, 
 for a wager of 120,000.00. He has had wonderful experi- 
 ences, and was then carrying with him compliments and 
 government seals of every country through which he had 
 come. He intended to leave Calcutta in a short time and, if 
 successful, expected to reach New York by October, 1895. 
 Mr. Randell is a strong, robust young man, twenty-f our years 
 of age, and has had some thrilling experiences in some of the 
 dangerous places through which he passed. It seems strange 
 that a young man would venture out on such a tour entirely 
 
CALCUTTA.— RIVER WORSHIP. 
 
 m 
 
 unprotected, riskinoj his life at every step. We felt sorry to 
 see him, thus recklessly, further expose himself. We also 
 met another American, a gentleman from Scranton, Penna. 
 On the 11th of January, a company of us went down to 
 the banks of the Hugli, where the natives worship the river, 
 regarding it as very sacred. They bathe, pray, slap the 
 
 HIGH COURT, CALCFTTA. 
 
 water, throwing it over their heads, facing the sun, and, with 
 folded hands, pray aloud. There are hundreds and hundreds 
 of them, men, women and children. Some immerse their 
 children and then pray, while others scatter flowers upon the 
 waters. They seem very devoted, and leave no ceremony in 
 their peculiar worship, unperformed. 
 
94 AilOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 The weather is very warm, and during the day people go 
 out but little; in the evening, however, the city is all astir. 
 
 CREMATORY. 
 
 In company with two other gentlemen, we visited the 
 " Burning Gnatt," where the bodies of the dead are burned. 
 Six bodies were there at that time, and we passed one on the 
 street. The body of the deceased is wrapped in a sheet, and 
 carried on a kind of bier. A little ditch is made in the earth 
 or ashes, sticks are laid over this first crosswise and then 
 lengthwise, and in this manner the funeral pile, about four 
 feet long, is built up until a few feet high. The corpse is 
 then laid on the pile and more fuel put on both sides, and 
 over it, the legs being bent under the body at the knees. 
 The face is left uncovered. The administering priest and the 
 wife of the husband prepare some food, usually rice mixed 
 with vegetables, which is then put into and upon the mOuth 
 of the dead man, by his wife, who next takes a handful of 
 thatch, lights it with fire, carries it around the corpse three 
 times, and then holding it for a moment to the mouth of the 
 dead body, applies the flames to the funeral pile which is 
 soon ablaze. The foreman of the crematory, speaking Eng- 
 lish, said to us, "How glad that woman would be to be 
 burned with her husband, but the law forbids it now ; for- 
 merly this was done." There were five or six bodies burned 
 during the time we were here. 
 
 A woman was seen walking back and forth, wringing her 
 hands and crying, and seemed to be in deep agony. We 
 inquired, " What does that mean?" They told us, "The 
 body at her side is that of her husband." O, how sad ! In 
 this way they are burned by the thousand. Every day such 
 scenes as we have described can be seen. After the body 
 
INFAKT WEDDIHGS. 97 
 
 is burned the ashes are thrown into the river Hugli 
 which flows along at the side of the gnatt. The widows, 
 of which there are twenty-one million, are never allowed 
 to marry again. The English laws are about to change that 
 also, and set them free. 
 
 INFANT WEDDINGS. 
 
 Many infant weddings, of which we witnessed several, 
 take place in India. Parents contract for their children, and 
 after they are married, keep them in charge until they attain 
 a certain age, when they move away by themselves. 
 If the husband should die in the meantime, the widow, 
 though but a child, can never be married again ; perhaps she 
 may never have known her husband. It is required that 
 widows shall lay aside all their ornaments, withdraw from 
 society in general and live a separate and isolated life, which 
 makes widowhood, judging from our standpoint, a very sad 
 and lamentable life. The English government has already 
 abolished the cruel custom of burning the widow with the 
 dead body of her husband, and it is now making efforts to 
 liberate her from this outcast and secluded life, and allow her 
 to marry again just as widows in civilized countries do. There 
 is nothing to be compared to a Christian life, a Christian 
 death, and a Christian burial. 
 
 The air, we noticed, was full of crows, hawks and vul- 
 tures, coming down in the streets of the city. No one 
 molested them, as they are considered sacred by the Hindoos. 
 
 INSCRIPTION ON A TOMBSTONE. 
 
 Walking through the city we passed a marble yard, 
 where tombstones were being made. In front of this yard 
 was a slab lying in sand, at which the workmen were still 
 
 7 
 
98 AEOUKD THE GLOBE. 
 
 employed. They place them in sand to prevent them from 
 being broken. The inscription was as follows: — 
 
 "Emma Osborn Ambrose, born in Sharon, Mich., 
 U. S. A., 2d of January, 1841; born again at the age of nine. 
 Appointed to mission service, from Nebraska, July 9, 1879. 
 Died here in the Bghai Kaven mission service, July 20, 1893. 
 
 HINDOO FESTIVAL. (OriyindL I'luito.) 
 
 Her parents, Ruel and Rebekah, surviving; brothers, Geo. 
 W., of Omaha, Neb., and J. Clement, of Chicago, 111. A 
 brother's words: " Were parents and brothers standing by, 
 they all would say, 'She was the best of our name.' Light 
 after darkness." 
 
 Would to God this might be said of all that are dead 
 and gone. " Though she is dead she yet speaketh." 
 
 THE SABBATH DAT. 
 
 Sunday, January 20, was a Sabbath day ; this day, 
 however, is not observed in the Orient as it is in our country. 
 
RELIGION or NEPAL. 
 
 m 
 
 Churches are not so well attended and places of amusement are 
 preferred. Many of the business houses and shops are open. 
 Theaters and the like are carried on to their utmost extent. 
 You see traces all around that you are not in a Christian 
 land. You see many bow to the sun, and others to the raging 
 sea, offering their prayers in the evening, when the sun sets. 
 Buddhism is the religion of Nepal. Some of them have 
 prayer wheels, which they turn with their hands or a string. 
 Some are placed in streams and are kept constantly revolving 
 by running water. Flags are also erected, upon which their 
 six holy syllables are embroidered. Whenever they are 
 blown by the wind, it counts as a repetition. The prayer 
 mill, driven by the wind, is another device. True prayer 
 is the heart's desire, and should be addressed to the one true 
 and living God; all else is worthless. We are taught to pray 
 without ceasing, not with a water-wheel or a wind-mill, but 
 to have our affections on God and our hearts breathing to 
 Him in prayer, making our wants known ; and He who alone 
 can hear the silent prayer, and the groanings of the honest 
 heart, will hear and answer our petitions. 
 
 PRAYER MILL. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Benares. 
 
 railroad accommodations — a nice country^temples and 
 mosques— bloody sacrifices— monkey temple— animal 
 
 WORSHIP— PILGRIMS— THE TREACHEROUS LIE--A HIN- 
 DOO SAYING — "SONS OF THE GANGES" — DIS- 
 TANCES AND FARES — DISGRACEFUL 
 CARVINGS — DANCING GIRLS. 
 
 N the 22d of January, at 20 : 59, we left Cal- 
 cutta. Railroad time is not computed here 
 as it is in America, the hours running from 
 jL^^|^«|^^^ one to twenty-four, beginning at midnight. 
 According to our way of counting time, 20 : 69 would be 
 8 : 59 P. M. The cars here are arranged in compartments, 
 and at night only six passengers are allowed in each com- 
 partment, which gives plenty of room for all of them to lie 
 down and sleep quite comfortably. Bunks, which are hinged 
 to the sides of the compartments, are let down, and as they 
 are not upholstered, those who want to be comfortable must 
 carry blankets, pillows, etc., of their own; these are also 
 needed at many of the hotels in this country. There are 
 good hotel and restaurant accommodations along the railroad 
 lines. 
 
 We passed through a nice country, growing with wheat, 
 barley, and various agricultural products. Numerous palm 
 groves, and mango trees, bearing a very palatable fruit, were 
 
BENARES.— THE SACRED CITY. 
 
 101 
 
 seen ; but there were very few buildings among them. We 
 crossed the Ganges river, which is very wide, and in wet 
 weather almost floods the whole surrounding country. 
 
 We arrived at Benares, the most sacred city of the 
 Hindoos, the next day at noon. Its soil, its wells, its 
 streams, its temples, its inhabitants, and everything in and 
 around it are, by the Hindoos, considered sacred, or holy. 
 Benares stands on the Ganges, and stretches about four miles 
 
 BUKNING GNATT. 
 
 along the northern banks. The river, more than a third of 
 a mile in breadth, sweeps around like a bay. Temples, 
 mosques, palaces, and buildings of every description rise 
 above a cliff one hundred feet high, from the summit of 
 which a multitude of stone ghats, of great diversity, descend 
 to the bed of the river. Hindoos, at onetime, thought that 
 the Gano;es and some of the other rivers would not allow 
 
102 
 
 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 themselves to be bridged; but now there is a fine railroad 
 bridge across the Ganges. The explanation now accepted 
 by the ignorant, is that the British Government accomplished 
 it through human sacrifices. 
 
 The streets of Benares are mostly crooked, and some are 
 so narrow as not to admit carriages. Many of the houses 
 are built of stone, some of them six stories high. In a few 
 instances the upper stories of two buildings on opposite sides 
 of the street are connected in such a way as to form rooms 
 
 which are used as living 
 apartments. There are 
 shops here of every kind, 
 and for every trade. 
 
 Benares is noted for its 
 enchased brass vessels, its 
 cloths, finely embroidered 
 with gold and silver, and 
 its innumerable small 
 shrines. There are in Ben- 
 ares about 1,500 Hindoo 
 temples and nearly 200 
 mosques. In the front of 
 the Durga temple, at the 
 southern extremity of the 
 city, bloody sacrifices are 
 offered every Tuesday. A 
 lamb is the offering. 
 The temples, and yards surrounding them, are full of 
 monkeys, which are fed as an act of merit. By giving a 
 little money to the attendants you will receive a small quan- 
 tity of grain, and when that is thrown down into the court 
 
 MONKEY TEMPLE. 
 
SANCTITY OF BENAKES. 103 
 
 yard the monkeys come from all directions, tumbling over 
 each other fighting for their share. On entering this temple 
 the shoes must be taken off, after which the priest comes and 
 hangs a string of flowers around your neck, while so many of 
 the natives follow and cause such a commotion that one is 
 inclined to remain but a short time. 
 
 Another temple was visited, in which cows were wander- 
 ing about, and it looked a little like our American barnyards. 
 The cattle would, doubtless, have been far happier had they 
 been in green fields. Animal worship is one of the most 
 degrading features of Hindooism. Many places along the 
 Ganges are considered so sacred by the Hindoos that the 
 mere act of visiting them is supposed to possess the virtue of 
 washing away their sins. They believe that at these places 
 five rivers meet, but to an American, or any other civilized 
 person, or even the natives themselves, only one is visible. 
 
 Pilgrims, separately or in crowds, are constantly seen 
 entering or departing from Benares throughout the whole 
 year, and especially on great festival occasions. They come 
 from all parts of India, and many carry away with them, 
 in small bottles, the sacred water of the Ganges. The bottles 
 are placed in baskets, hanging from a pole, which they bear 
 upon their shoulders. It is claimed by some that the sanctity 
 of Benares extends from the Ganges to the Panch-kosi road. 
 Whoever dies within this limit, or area, whether Hindoo, 
 Mussulman, or Christian, whether pure in heart and life, or 
 an outcast and a murderer, is sure of heaven. Hence the 
 usurer, who has spent all his life in oppressing the poor, or 
 he who is guilty of the foulest crimes, at the approach of 
 death comes to Benares, and is comforted with the treacher- 
 ous lie that his sins are forgiven and his soul is saved. 
 
104 
 
 AKOUI^D THE GLOBE. 
 
 Intelligent Hindoos know that such hopes are false. 
 There is a saying amongst them to this effect, "He who has 
 guilt on his conscience will not become clean, though he wash 
 
 himself until 
 he dies, with 
 all the waters 
 of the Ganges, 
 and smear him- 
 self with mount- 
 ains of mud." 
 It is stated that 
 many of the 
 business men of 
 Benares bathe 
 daily in the Gan- 
 ges, and then go 
 home to tell lies 
 and defraud 
 their customers. 
 A number of the 
 Brahmans are 
 called ' ' Sons of 
 the Ganges." 
 
 Benares is 
 
 476 miles from 
 
 Calcutta by 
 
 DANCING GIRL. " ^.^ij^ rphe fare, 
 
 third-class, is six rupees. It is 945 miles from Bombay, and 
 the fare is 12 rupees and 15 annas. From Madras the 
 distance is 1,550 miles, and the fare is 23 rupees and 13 
 annas. The population of Benares is 222,500. In many of 
 
 [Original Photo.) 
 
, J runt fiiDlo.) 
 
 UPPER KIDRON AND MOUNT CALVARY, AS SEEN 
 IN THE FOREGROUND. 
 
 When on Calvary I rest, 
 God, in flesh made manifest, 
 Shines in my Eedeemer's face, 
 Pull of beauty, truth, and grace. 
 
 Here I would forever stay. 
 Weep and gaze my soul away; 
 Thou art Heaven on earth to me, 
 Lovely, mournful Calvary. 
 
 —James Montgomery. 
 
DANCING GIRLS. 107 
 
 the temples, the most disgraceful carvings and sculptures 
 imaginable are shown. They are life size, of both sexes, and 
 are considered sacred, while in America they would be 
 considered obscene, and most damnable in their sinfulness. 
 
 Next to the sacrificers, the most important persons about 
 the temples are the dancing girls, who call themselves 
 servants of the gods. Their profession is to be open to the 
 embraces of persons of all castes. They are bred to this life, 
 selected from all castes, and are frequently of respectable 
 birth. It is a very common thing to hear of women with the 
 belief that, to consecrate their children to the temple service 
 will tend to their happy delivery. ^They make a vow, with 
 the consent of their husbands, to devote the child, if a girl, 
 to the service of the Pagoda, the vow being made before the 
 child is born. In so doing they imagine that they are 
 performing a meritorious as well as a religious duty, the 
 infamous life to which the daughter is thus destined bringing 
 no disgrace upon the family. According to the census in 
 the Madras Presidency, the number of these dancing girls 
 was 11,573. Such a condition of affairs is indeed lamentable. 
 Oh! reader, imagine, if you can, the licensed shamelessness 
 of this consecrated profligacy, carried on under the sanction 
 of so-called religion, and in the full blaze of publicity, while 
 statesmen and those at the head of a nation, with all its wise 
 men of letters, look on unconcerned, not uttering one 
 word of disapprobation, and not raising one finger to 
 remove it ! 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Allahabad. 
 
 junction of sacred rivers— thousands of pilgrims— banners 
 
 AND FLAGS FLOATING — UNDERGROUND TEMPLE — SUICIDE 
 — BRAHMANS DROWNING — PRAYAG — INDIA PRO- 
 DUCTIONS AND ANIMALS — ENGLISH OFFI- 
 CERS — FORTS— SOLDIERS. 
 
 ROM Benares, we went to Allahabad, which is 
 the capital of the North-west provinces. It is 
 situated at the junction of the Ganges and the 
 Jumna rivers. It is a very ancient city, and 
 one of the principal places where the Hindoos gather to wor- 
 ship. The native town consists of a network of narrow 
 streets, intersected by a few main roads. The English 
 quarter is handsomely laid out, with broad streets, planted 
 with trees and bordered by running streams on either side. 
 
 Thousands of pilgrims were gathered here, as is always 
 the case the first of the year, from all parts of India ; some 
 came by train, some with their native bullock carts, others on 
 pony carts, some on camels, and some on elephants. 
 
 The river banks were lined with people, and flags and 
 banners were floating for miles. Thousands and thousands 
 were here bathing and bottling the water of the Ganges. 
 There was music in every direction ; monks with long hair 
 were sitting around with their faces smeared with clay and 
 paint, some of them sitting on spikes driven through planks. 
 
An undekgeound temple. 
 
 10^ 
 
 Seen from the river, the fort presents a striking appear- 
 ance, crowning the point where, the Ganges and the Jumna 
 unite. Near Asoka's Pillar, steps lead down to an under- 
 ground Hindoo temple. This building, dedicated to Siva, 
 passes as the place where the river Saraswati unites with the 
 Ganges and the Jumna. The damp walls of the chambers 
 afford sufficient proof of its existence for the satisfaction of 
 devotees. 
 
 SACRED TREE. 
 
 Passing through the narrow, damp passage with a guide 
 and light, and in the presence of our friend, we came to the 
 stump of a banyan tree, said to be fifteen centuries old, and 
 still alive; it is here an object of worship. A light burns 
 before it, and beside it sits a Brahman to receive the offer- 
 ings. A cloth is so arranged that the tree cannot be properly 
 seen. In reality it is merely part of a forked tree with its 
 bark on, stuck into the ground, and it is renewed secretly by 
 
110 AHOtrND THE GLOBE. 
 
 the priests when it threatens to decay. A gentleman tried 
 the bark with his finger nail, and found it quite dry and 
 brittle. 
 
 The temple also contains the image of a man named 
 Makunba, a famous saint who committed suicide because he 
 had been guilty of the great sin of having accidentally swal- 
 lowed the hair of a cow, by drinking milk without first 
 straining it. 
 
 The English ofiicer, at the fort through which all must 
 go to enter this underground temple, said, on inquiry, that 
 
 BKAHMANS DROWNING THEMSELVES. 
 
 every one who went in was recorded, and that on one day 
 30,000 had passed through, all with lights in their hands, and 
 that only a small portion of those present outside, on the 
 banks of the river, went in, because it required a small fee 
 which they had not to give. 
 
 In many places soldiers and officers were present to keep 
 order, as in the rush through the gates some tread others 
 down, so as to get into the places of worship first. 
 
 Prayag is considered one of the most efficacious places 
 in India for bathing. At Mela, early in the year, the point 
 
INDIA.— PRODUCTS. 113 
 
 near the junction is crowded by thousands of pilgrims. It 
 was the custom, until stopped by the British government, 
 for some to drown themselves at this junction, in the sup- 
 posed belief of thus securing heavenly homes. The victim 
 went out to the middle of the stream with fellow Brahmans 
 in a boat. One hand was tied firmly to a large earthen 
 vessel ; the other hand held a small cup. He was assisted 
 into the water by those in the boat, the air in the empty 
 vessel serving to keep him afloat. He then, with the cup, 
 commenced slowly to fill the pot with water. As each cup- 
 ful was added, the vessel gradually sank, until the balance 
 was turned, when it rapidly filled, and by its weight dragged 
 the deluded creature beneath the waters. So far from being 
 a work of merit, it is a sin to destroy one's self. 
 
 The population of Allahabad is about 177,000. 
 
 On January 26th we started for Bombay by the way 
 of Jubulpore. At this season of the year they were in the 
 midst of the barley harvest. The principal crops are corn, 
 barley, wheat, linseed, curry, and indigo. We saw several 
 deer and large wild birds, but no wild tigers. It is said, 
 however, that they are numerous in the jungles. We arrived 
 at Bombay on Sunday morning. 
 
 The interior of India is full of interest to the traveler. 
 Its soil is very productive, though poorly cultivated. It has 
 large rivers, populous cities and beautiful scenery. The 
 country is under British rule, and is well fortified. There 
 are many very strong fortifications, and a large military 
 force is maintained at an immense expense. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Bombay. 
 
 population — streets — buildings — missions — hospital for 
 aged bullocks— ant feeding— child widows — 
 
 ELEPHANTA CAVES. 
 
 TTENDING services at the Scotch church occu- 
 pied our first evening in Bombay. The sub- 
 ject of the discourse was, "Jesus the Savior 
 indeed." Bombay is the largest city and is 
 situated on the finest harbor in India. The population is 
 approximately 840,000. Hindooism is the prevailing relig- 
 ion : about one fifth of the inhabitants are Mohammedans; 
 and besides these there are a number of Parsees, Jews and 
 Christians. 
 
 The city itself consists mostly of well-built houses and 
 broad streets, with some grand public buildings. It is 
 claimed that Bombay was greatly enriched by the great de- 
 mand for cotton during the Civil War in the United States. 
 The fast increasing wealth and business of the city led to the 
 erection of several magnificent buildings, among which are 
 the Government Oflices, the University Building and the 
 G. 1. P. Central railway station, said to be the finest build- 
 ing of its kind in the world. 
 
 One of the institutions in Bombay, which we visited, is a 
 Pinjeapole, or hospital for old bullocks, dogs, cats, horses, 
 sheep, goats, deer, monkeys, pigeons, chickens, ducks, 
 
BOMBAY.— HOSPITAL YOU ANIMALS. 
 
 115 
 
 geese and all kinds of domestic animals, many of them in a 
 lamentable condition, and all left here to die a natural death. 
 While there are many diseased and crippled, some are lying 
 among them dead, and are not buried till the following night. 
 The dogs and cats were fighting, and many of the animals 
 were in such a condition as to almost break one's heart to 
 see them, although they are well taken care of. The institu- 
 tion and all'animals kept here are considered'sacred, and .the 
 
 .VIEW OF BOMBAY HARBOR 
 
 care which the keepers give them is regarded as a religious 
 duty. 
 
 Many of our American people, who make high claims to 
 civilization and Christianity, show far less kindness to their 
 dumb brutes than is shown by these heathen people, 
 upon whom they look down with the utmost contempt. Be- 
 hold, what a contrast! Among our so-called Christian people 
 
116 ABOUKD THE GLOBE. 
 
 a humane officer is needed to teach them their duty towards 
 the domestic animals; among these heathen the care of a poor 
 brute becomes a religious duty. The wise man teaches us,^ 
 " The righteous showeth mercy towards his beast." 
 
 I was informed that it costs the society, to maintain this' 
 institution, between four and five thousand rupees per- 
 month. This is all under the control of a religious sect 
 called the Jains, and is considered by them a work of great 
 merit. Some of them, mostly those of the poorer classes, 
 feed pigeons and scatter sugar near ant hills, looking upon 
 this as "good works" from a religious standpoint, and doing 
 what they can so that they may not be without Something to 
 render them acceptable before their god. Others feed the ox 
 and the more exalted animals, but they do not look down 
 upon and discard their poorer or less fortunate neighbors be- 
 cause they are not able to do as much as others, or to dress 
 as finely as they. In this respect some of our American 
 people would suffer in a comparison with the Jains. 
 
 The pity and sympathy of many of these people is 
 altogether confined to the brute creation, going so far as 
 trying to prevent the slaughter of sheep for food ; while on 
 the subject of female infanticide they are silent. 
 
 Principal Wordsworth, acknowledged to be one of the 
 warmest friends of India, and from his position having the 
 best means of ascertaining the truth, makes the following 
 severe remarks regarding the action of some educated 
 Hindoos: — 
 
 "I need hardly say, that I consider the existence of the 
 Hindoo child-widow one of the darkest blots that ever de- 
 faced the civilization of any people, and it is the direct and 
 necessary consequence of the system of infant marriage. 
 
HINDOO CHILD WIDOWS. 
 
 117 
 
 now. 
 
 Some years ago I should have expected that these sentiments 
 woald have an echo in the bosom of every Hindoo who had 
 received an English education, and particularly among those 
 persons who were attempting to appropriate the political 
 methods and ideas of Englishmen. I have no such delusion 
 I find some of them employing all the resources of 
 
 theological 
 sophistry and 
 cant, not simply 
 to palliate, but 
 to vindicate 
 what is plainly 
 one of the most 
 cruel, blighting, 
 and selfish forms 
 of human super- 
 stition and tyr- 
 anny. I find 
 others maneu- 
 vering to arrest 
 every sincere 
 effort at reform, 
 sophisticating 
 between right 
 and wrong, de- 
 faming the char- 
 acter and mo- 
 tives of reform- 
 ers, and laboring to establish by arguments as ridiculous as 
 they are insulting, that English domestic society offers a 
 warning rather than an example to Hindoos. I find th^ro 
 
 {Original Photo.) 
 
 CHILD IN JEWELS. 
 
,118 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 vindicating early marriage as the only safeguard against uni- 
 versal sexual license, a confession of moral incompetence 
 which I should have thought that any people, with a grain of 
 self respect, would have shrunk from advancing." Hindoos 
 believe strongly in the spirit of reaction. It is said to have its 
 centre in Poona, the chief stronghold of Brahman orthodoxy. 
 "On the other hand, Bombay has a few zealous reformers, 
 and it is hoped that the reactionary movement will soon pass 
 away." 
 
 THE CAVE TEMPLES OF INDIA. 
 
 The cave temples of India are among its greatest mar- 
 vels. No other country in the world possesses such a mag- 
 nificent group of rock-cut monuments. The period during 
 which the people of India were given to making these excava- 
 tions," is supposed to have begun about 250 B. C, and to 
 have ended about 800 A. D. More than nineteen of the 
 cave temples are found in the Bombay Presidency. I will 
 give some account of a celebrated cave on the island of 
 Elephanta, about six miles from Bombay, by boat, which I, 
 with others, was permitted to visit. It was so called by the 
 Portuguese, from a stone elephant which stood near the old 
 landing place. The greatest cave is in the western hill of 
 the island, and at an elevation of* about 250 feet above the 
 sea-level. It is hewn out of a hard, compact rock, which has 
 also been cut away on either side, leaving an open, spacious 
 front supported by two massive pillars and two half pillars. 
 This forms three openings under a thick and steep rock. It 
 is overhung by brushwood and wild shrubs. The whole ex- 
 cavation consists of three principal parts, the great temple 
 itself, which is in the center, and two smaller compartments, 
 one on each side. 
 
' ■•t^^ ^ Mi f 
 
ELEPHANTA CAVE. 121 
 
 The great temple is about 130 feet long, and as broad. 
 It rests on twenty-six pillars, eight of them now broken, and 
 sixteen half pillars. It varies in height from fifteen to nine- 
 teen feet. On entering the temple, one of the first objects 
 which attracts notice, is a large figure of the Trimurti, nine- 
 teen feet in height. On each side stand gigantic door 
 keepers about twelve feet in height. In approaching the 
 THmurti^ the shrine or garbha of the temple is passed to 
 the right. It is entered by doors on the four sides, with a 
 gigantic doorkeeper at each door. The chamber is perfectly 
 plain on the inside, and about nineteen feet square. In the 
 center stands an altar or vedi. about ten feet square and three 
 feet high. In the center of this is placed the linga^ cut from 
 a block of a harder grain than that in which the cave is 
 excavated. 
 
 The compartment to the east of the Trimurti contains 
 numerous gigantic figures, grouped about a gigantic Ard- 
 hanari, or Siva, represented as a half-male and half-female 
 divinity. The figure is nearly seventeen feet high. It is 
 seen from the description, which is given by competent and 
 reliable men, that the temple belonged to the Siva sect. 
 
 On Sunday, February 3, 1895, we attended services con- 
 ducted under the auspices of the Church of Scotland. The 
 subject in the morning was, "The Transfiguration of Christ." 
 Communion services were held in the evening. These serv- 
 ices were conducted in a manner very similar to those in the 
 Protestant churches of our large cities. 
 
 There are a number of mission schools and mission 
 workers in Bombay. The Salvation Army is well represented 
 and is very successful, as their members will venture into 
 places where other Christian workers will not go. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Parsees. 
 
 principal merchants— worship the four elements— child- 
 training— marriage— marriageable age— marriage 
 
 FUND — FUNERAL — PREPARING THE DEAD — 
 "TOWERS OF SILENCE."' 
 
 N proportion to their numbers, the Parsees are 
 probably the richest class in India. They are 
 descendants of the ancient Persians, who 
 came to India many years a_o;o to avoid 
 Mohammedan persecution. _ Much of the mercantile business 
 of the East is in their hands. , Unfettered b}^ caste like 
 Hindoos, they are free to travel wherever they please. They 
 are also distinguished for the attention they pay to education. 
 In religion, they are followers of Zoroaster or Zarathustra. 
 Their sacred book, which is to them as the Bible is to us, is 
 called the Avesta. Theoretically they claim to be mono- 
 theists, but they adore the four, elements— fire, air, earth and 
 water. Like the Hindoos, they attach great purifying power 
 to the urine of the cow, called "Nirang." It is brought to 
 their houses every morning. A small quantity of it is applied 
 to the face, hands and feet. In greater purifications, some 
 of the liquid is drank. 
 
 A fire is kept ever burning in their temple. The 
 learned Bishop Meurin, writing about the similarity between 
 
<»,:..-*-•._% ^i. 
 
 [Orii/hid/ Photo.) 
 GATES OF THE (JHUKCH OF THE HOLY yEPULOHKE. 
 
 Not bleeding bird, nor bleeding beast, 
 Nor hyssop branch, nor earthly priest, 
 Nor running brook, nor flood, nor sea. 
 Can wash the dismal stain away. 
 
 Jesus, Thy blood. Thy blood alone. 
 Hath power sufficient to atone; 
 Thy blood can make us white as snow; 
 No other tide can cleanse us so. 
 
THE PARSEE RELIGION. 125 
 
 the Parsee fire temple and the Christian sanctuary, says : 
 "On this landing let us rest for a while. We have before us 
 the sanctuary of the Parsee fire temple and the sanctuary of 
 the Christian church. In both we see a perpetual flame 
 indicating the presence of God ; there the omnipotence of 
 God the Creator, here the sacramental presence of God the 
 Redeemer. 1 am unable to express in words the deep and 
 vehement feelings which move my heart when I kneel in the 
 sanctuary of my chapel and think of the Parsee fire temple a 
 few yards off, in which a fire is ever burning like the flame 
 in our sanctuary, and in our hearts." 
 
 The Bible so frequently refers to fire out of which God 
 spoke, and by which He so often proved Himself, and which 
 is so essential in the Christian work — the fire of the Holy 
 Ghost. 
 
 The Parsees do not bury their dead, but expose them in 
 towers to be devoured by vultures. In the Avesta, the earth 
 complains that she is polluted by the burial of the dead. The 
 bodies are laid in what are called "Towers of Silence." Each 
 tower usually has several vultures sitting motionless around 
 the top, with their heads pointed inward. When a corpse is 
 brought the vultures swoop down, and in a few minutes fly 
 back satiated, and take up their former position. 
 
 We will give here a selection from their code of morals, 
 taken from a pamphlet, setting forth the principles of their 
 religion, which was given us, along with a permit to visit the 
 " Towers of Silence," by the secretary of their society. 
 
 Five questions are asked and answered : 
 
 Ques. "Who is the most fortunate man in the world? " 
 
 Ans. "He who is the most innocent." 
 
 Ques. "Who is the most innocent man in the world?" 
 
126 AEOUKD T'HE GLOBE. 
 
 Ans. "He who walks in the path of God and shuns 
 that of the devil." 
 
 Ques. "Which is the path of God, and which that of 
 the devil? " 
 
 Ans. "Virtue is the path of God, and vice that of 
 the devil." 
 
 Ques. "What constitutes virtue, and what vice?" 
 
 Ans. "Good thoughts, good words, and good deeds 
 constitute virtue; and bad thoughts, bad words and bad 
 deeds constitute vice." 
 
 Ques. "W^hat constitutes good thoughts, good words 
 and good deeds?" 
 
 Ans. "Honesty, charity and truthfulness." 
 
 All must acknowledge that these are very good rules 
 from a strictly moral standpoint ; but there is no living 
 Christ in them. The Parsees look to the God of nature. Oh, 
 if they could only grasp and believe in the living God and 
 His Son Jesus ! 
 
 In the evening, as we were walking along the beach, we 
 were surprised to see the Parsees, both men and women, 
 making their way toward the sea, and here on the shore 
 of the ocean, as the sun was sinking, they performed some 
 of their religious rites. The sun was setting, and the water 
 in the vast expanse of the Indian ocean was outstretched 
 before them. There was no music save the solemn moan of 
 the waves as they broke into foam upon the beach; but 
 where shall we find an instriiment making grander music? 
 O, could we in our service but close our eyes and see the 
 greatness of God in all His works, on both land and sea, 
 we would become more and more as a Christian people should 
 be — more loyal to God and more consecrated to His service! 
 
J 
 
 
 -.^ 
 
 ^ .■us.^J^-^ ^Mm^. 
 
PAKSEE CHILD-TEAINING. 
 
 129 
 
 Obedience to parents is a religious virtue with the Zor- 
 oastrian religion. Disobedient children are considered great 
 sinners. This virtue of obedience to parents was such a 
 common characteristic with the ancient Zoroastrians that, as 
 Herodotus says, "The legitimacy of a child accused of a 
 misdeed toward the parent was looked at with great sus- 
 picion." The parents were the rulers of the house — the 
 father the king, the mother the queen; so that the children, 
 as subjects, were bound to be obedient to their rulers. 
 
 This obedience to parents at home, and to teachers at 
 school, was a training for future obedience to the rules and 
 manners of society at large, and to the constitutional forms 
 for the government of their country. Children who are 
 disobedient to their parents cannot be expected to be good 
 members of society and good, loyal subjects to their rulers. 
 For this reason the religious books greatly emphasize this 
 virtue. One of the blessings that a priest prays for in a 
 
 9 
 
130 AEOUKD THE GLOBE. 
 
 house, when he performs the Afingan ceremony, is the 
 obedience of the children to the head of the family. He 
 prays, "May obedience overcome disobedience in this house; 
 may peace overcome dissensions, may charity overcome want 
 of charity, may courtesy overcome pride, may truth over- 
 come falsehood." 
 
 These writings agree well with the teachings of our 
 gospel. Many of the children and the young people of 
 Christian nations may learn good lessons from the teachings 
 of a heathen people. 
 
 PARSEE VIEWS ON MARRIAGE. 
 
 Marriage is an institution which is greatly encouraged 
 by the Parsee religion, on the grounds that a married life is 
 more likely to be happy than an unmarried one ; that a 
 married person is more likely to withstand physical and 
 mental afflictions than an unmarried one, and that a married 
 man is more likely to lead a religious and virtuous life than 
 an unmarried one. The following words are given in their 
 writings : "I say these words to you, marrying biides, and 
 to you, bridegrooms. Impress them in your minds: May 
 you two enjoy the life of good minds by following the laws 
 of religion. Let each one of you clothe the other with right- 
 eousness, because then assuredly there will be a happy life 
 for you." 
 
 An unmarried person is represented to feel as unhappy 
 as a fertile piece of ground that is carelessly allowed to lie 
 uncultivated by its owner. The fertile piece of ground, when 
 cultivated, not only adds to the beauty of the spot, but gives 
 nourishment and food to many others round about. So a 
 married couple not only add to their own beauty, grace and 
 happiness, but by their righteousness and good conduct are 
 
PAIiSEE MAERIAaES. 
 
 131 
 
 in a position to spread the blessings of help and happiness 
 among their neighbors. Marriage being thus considered a 
 good institution, and being recommended by their religious 
 scriptures, it is accepted as a very meritorious act for a 
 Parsee to help his co-religionists to lead married lives. 
 
 Several rich Parsees have, with this charitable view, 
 founded endowment funds, from which young, deserving 
 
 brides are given small sums, on the occasion of their mar- 
 riage, for the preliminary expenses of starting in married 
 life. Fifteen years is the minimum marriageable age spoken 
 of by the Parsee books. Parents have a voice of sanction or 
 approval in the selection of wives and husbands. Marriages 
 with others than Parsees are not recommended, as they are 
 
132 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 likely to bring about quarrels and dissensions, owing to a 
 difference of manners, customs and habits. 
 
 THE "to WEES OF SILENCE." 
 
 We were permitted to stand on the opposite side of the 
 street from a house in which a Parsee funeral service was 
 being held. The Parsees are a very exclusive sect, and this 
 was as close as we were allowed to approach. None but their 
 own people are admitted or allowed to see the corpse. It 
 appears, from the traditions of several ancient nations, that 
 the dog played a prominent part in their burial services. 
 They are still used by the Parsees. At this time the dog, led 
 by a man, was taken into the house, and shortly afterward 
 led out again. His particular part seems to be in seeing the 
 dead body "four-eyed." A spotted dog, with a spot directly 
 over each eye, is supposed by these people to possess the 
 peculiar characteristic of instinctively designating to them 
 whether or not the person is dead— staring steadily at him if 
 life is extinct, and not looking at him at all if he is not 
 altogether lifeless. Some attribute this "sag-deed" to some 
 magnetic influence in the eyes of the dog ; others to the fact 
 that the dog is, of all animals, the most faithful to his master; 
 others consider a dog to be symbolic of the destruction of 
 moral passions, and as death puts an end to all moral 
 passions, so the presence of a dog near the dead body 
 emphasized that idea. 
 
 The corpse is wrapped in a winding sheet and carried by 
 six men on a kind of bier rudely constructed of sticks and 
 poles. The mourners and friends must all follow two by 
 two, and are dressed in white. 
 
 The "Towers of Silence," which practically constitute 
 the Parsee cemetery, are situated a mile or two from the 
 
^ 
 
PARSEE FUNERALS. 135 
 
 main part of the city. They are situated on a hill, in a park 
 or enclosure containing thirty or forty acres. The grounds 
 are very nicely kept. There are five of these towers ; one 
 for family use, said to be over 200 years old, one for self- 
 murderers, and three for general use. The rich and poor, 
 great and small, are all alike brought to this place. No one 
 but the attendants is allowed to enter these towers, as they 
 are considered very defiling. 
 
 There is another tower in the park which was built for 
 the express purpose of making a model so that the Prince of 
 Wales could see how they were built, he not being allowed 
 to enter the others. We had a permit to go through the 
 park, and visited this tower, which is an exact counterpart 
 of the others. It consists of a wall about twenty-five feet 
 high, perhaps twenty or thirty feet in diameter, with a small 
 door which serves as an entrance. On the inside, in the 
 center, is a well. Directly over the well is a crate upon 
 which the bodies are exposed to the vultures sitting on the 
 wall, waiting for their prey. The well is drained by other 
 deeper wells near it, and the water and earth are disinfected 
 with charcoal. There are other buildings in the park for the 
 accommodation of the mourners and friends. 
 
 When the funeral party arrives, the dead body is placed 
 on a stone near one of the towers ; then two men take the 
 corpse and carry it into the tower, placing it upon the crate. 
 After the clothing has been removed, the men leave the 
 tower, and the vultures are allowed to satisfy their cravings. 
 There are from 300 to 400 of these vultures on the grounds, 
 and in about one hour the fleshy parts of the body will be 
 consumed by them, after which the skeleton is dropped into 
 the well. 
 
136 
 
 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 The towers and the dead are considered very defiling, 
 this being the reason why no one is allowed to enter. The 
 two attendants, who are set apart for this work, remain 
 permanently on the grounds, and do not come in contact at 
 all with the outside world. 
 
 How grateful we should feel that we are born in a 
 Christian land, with Christian privileges, and under Christian 
 influences. 
 
(Ortyv/iul Jftioto ) 
 CHURCH OF THE LORD'S PRAYER ON MOUNT OLIVET. 
 INTERIOR OF THE PASSAGE. 
 
 Oh, 'tis sweet to bring to Jesus ev'ry little care, 
 Trials and temptations, which we cannot bear. 
 Ev'ry sin which doth beset us. He will take away. 
 If in faith believing, thus we humbly pray: 
 
 "Our rather which art in heaven. Hallowed be Thy name. Thy 
 kingdom come. Thy will be done in earth, as it is in heaven. Give us 
 this day our daily bread. And forgive us our trespasses as we forgive 
 those who trespass against us. And lead us not into temptation, but de- 
 liver us from evil: For thine is the kingdom, and the power, and the 
 glory, for ever. Amen." 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 Bombay to Egypt. 
 
 FAREWELL TO INDIA — WAR VESSELS — REV. AND BIRS. HAZEN — 
 ARABIAN SEA — ADEN — RED SEA IN SIGHT — BIBLE LANDS — 
 CROSSING OF THE ISRAEJ^ITES— MOUNT SINAI— SUEZ 
 — THE CANAL — SHORT CUT AROUND THE 
 GLOBE — BITTER LAKE — CROCO- 
 DILE LAKE AND ISMALIA. 
 
 E set sail on the 9th of February, going aboard 
 the grand ship, Shannon, of the P. & O. line, 
 on which we found very comfortable quarters 
 for the voyage. Many came aboard, mostly 
 Englishmen and Americans. Immense crowds gathered to 
 see their friends off, as there is a close connection and good 
 feeling between India and England, and other parts of 
 Europe. Copious tears are shed on these occasions when 
 husbands and wives and children part. 
 
 As we leave the harbor, the numerous warships anchored 
 in and around Bombay present a magnificent appearance. 
 Soon our ship was out on the deep, making her way across 
 the Arabian Sea. 
 
 On Sunday, February 10th, very formal services were 
 held on board by the captain. During the day we had the 
 pleasure of meeting Rev. Hazen and wife, missionaries, on 
 their way to visit their former home in America. 
 
140 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 This particular Sunday evening was very pleasant. The 
 sea was calm and the moon and stars were shining brightly 
 upon the waters, giving us a splendid view of the sea by 
 moonlight. 
 
 This beautiful sight brought the writer to realize how 
 grandly and wonderfully God had arranged all these things, 
 so that the sea, the moon and the stars obey His omnipotent 
 will. The Parsees have great confidence in the moon and 
 stars ; why then should we fear, when we trust in Him who 
 controls them? Why should the Christian fear when he has 
 Christ in the heart? 
 
 Dear reader, it is not when we are at home, on land, 
 where no dangers are seen, that we are safe ; but real safety 
 is in God, even though we are in the midst of a great storm. 
 He says, "I will go with thee." The Psalmist says, "A 
 thousand shall fall at thy side, and ten thousand at thy right 
 
 hand ; but it shall not come nigh thee Because thou hast 
 
 made the Lord, which is my refuge, even the Most High, 
 thy habitation; there shall no evil befall thee, neither shall 
 any plague come nigh thy dwelling ; for he shall give his 
 angels charge over thee to keep thee in all thy ways." 
 Ps. 91:7—11. 
 
 As we were now drawing near Aden, all those who had 
 written letters prepared to mail them. At this point we 
 entered the Red Sea and soon were in the Bible lands. The 
 weather was fine, and we were now in sight of land. The 
 country looked very barren and sandy, while on the east we 
 saw Arabia and on the west Africa. 
 
 We passed the wreck of a French steamer. Nothing but 
 the mast was visible above the water. Large military sta- 
 

 I I ' ' ' 
 
 LForm. of the-Camp of" the Israelttea. 
 
 EfeiffM B ag tHaa i s^mstis tJBsWri;^* Bs saga 
 
 3 1 Longitude £ast SjZ from t 
 
SCENES ALONG THE EED SEA. 143 
 
 tions and forts were passed as we entered the Red Sea. 
 Many mountain peaks were seen in the distance. 
 
 On the 16th of February, we had a very pleasant day, 
 and the sea was like glass, almost without a ripple. How I 
 longed for my friends and family to be with me. 
 
 The passage of the children of Israel through the Red 
 Sea was bearing much upon my mind, and as we were draw- 
 ing toward the locality, mountains were seen, and references 
 were made to several places as being the ones referred to 
 where the children of Israel passed through. The country 
 looks very barren, and there is apparently no means of sup- 
 port for man or beast, but when there was a vast multitude 
 of the children of Israel to pass through and take up their 
 wanderings through the wilderness, God supported His 
 own, by sending them manna from heaven. 
 
 It is claimed by some that Mt. Sinai can be seen from 
 the ship on a clear day, while others dispute it. But one 
 thing is true: as we sailed along the gulf, the country looked 
 very inspiring to a Christian, on account of the thoughts 
 connected with God's visits to Moses and Israel during their 
 sojourn here of forty years. My heart throbbed within me 
 as we were nearing these Bible lands. How I enjoyed it 
 and felt grateful to God for the blessing conferred upon me in 
 permitting me to visit these most interesting points in all the 
 world, — The Bible lands. 
 
 The Red Sea is an arm of the sea extending from the 
 Indian Ocean towards the north-west, between Arabia and 
 Africa, to a distance of fourteen hundred miles. It is entered 
 at the southern extremity through a strait only eighteen miles 
 in width. At the widest place it is two hundred and twenty- 
 one miles in width. Toward the north end it gradually con- 
 
144 
 
 ABOUi^D THE GLOBE. 
 
 tracts, and at length divides into two arms, the gulf of Akaba 
 and the gulf of Suez, formerly called Heroopolitic gulf. 
 
 The water is of a beautiful, blue color, changing near 
 the surface, where there are shoals or reefs, to a pale 
 green. No satisfactory reason for the modern name (Red 
 Sea)' has yet been given. 
 
 CHILDREN OF ISRAEL CROSSING THE RED SEA. 
 
 The weather was very warm, and sailors say that the 
 passage through the Red Sea is the warmest and most sultry 
 of any part of the entire voyage around the world. 
 
 Suez was now in view, and we crossed at the place where 
 historians claim the passage of the children of Israel was 
 
THE SUEZ CAKAL. 145 
 
 made. It is but a few miles from where the ship enters the 
 Suez canal. 
 
 During the last half day of our passage here, the sea 
 became very rough, caused by a strong south wind, and it 
 was necessary for the ship to cast anchor about half a mile 
 from Suez, and wait for the storm to subside and for morn- 
 ing before entering the Suez canal. 
 
 Suez is not much of a town. Numerous ships were 
 passed and many were lying at anchor. The surrounding 
 country is very sandy and barren. The sea was calm as we 
 entered the canal at a very slow rate of speed. The Suez 
 canal is a wonderful piece of work, and one of the greatest 
 undertakings, if not in reality the greatest, in the world. It 
 was completed in 1869, connecting the Red Sea with the 
 Mediterranean. It was built at a cost of $130,000,000, The 
 canal is about 100 miles long, 250 feet wide, and of sufficient 
 depth to allow the largest ships to pass through without 
 difficulty, thus saving in a voyage from Europe and America 
 to India or China, from five to seven thousand miles in dis- 
 tance, and about one month in time. 
 
 The great mercantile importance of the canal is apparent 
 from the following data. The distance from London to Bombay 
 via the Cape of Good Hope, is 12,548 English miles; and via 
 the Suez canal, 7,028 miles. The saving thus effected is 
 forty-four per cent, of the distance. From Hamburg to 
 Bombay, by the cape, it is 12,903 miles ; by the canal 7,383 
 miles, a saving of forty-three per cent. From Triest to 
 Bombay, by the cape, 13,229 miles; by the canal 4,816 miles, 
 saving sixty-three per cent. From London to Hong Kong, 
 by the cape, 15,229 miles; by the canal 11,112 miles, saving 
 twenty-eight per cent. From Odessa to Hong Kong, by the 
 
 10 
 
146 
 
 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 cape, 16,629 miles; by the canal 8,735 miles, saving forty- 
 seven per cent. From Marseilles to Bombay, by the cape, 
 12,144 miles; by the canal 5,022 miles, saving fifty-nine per 
 cent. From Constantinople to Zanzibar, by the cape, 10,271 
 miles; by the canal 4,365 miles, saving fifty-seven per cent. 
 From Rotterdam to the Sunda strait, by the cape, 13,252 
 miles; by the canal 9,779 miles, saving twenty-six per 
 cent. The passage of the canal, which is open to vessels 
 of all nations, has been practicable both by day and by night 
 since the introduction of the electric light. 
 
 SUEZ CANAL. 
 
 In 1890, 3,425 vessels of an aggregate burden of 9.749,129 
 tons passed through the canal. 
 
 The nationalities of the vessels traversing the canal in 
 
 1890 were as follows: Aggregate tons. 
 
 British ... - 2,522 vessels, 5,331,094 
 
 German - - - - 275 vessels, 490,586 
 
 French ----- 169 vessels, 365,903 
 
 Dutch ----- 144 vessels, 284,511 
 
 Italian ----- 87 vessels, 143,720 
 
 Austrian - . - - 55 vessels, 118,047 
 
 Other nationalities - 137 vessels, 192,233 
 
COUKSE or StJEZ CANAL. 147 
 
 The number of passengers on board these vessels was 
 about 156,000. 
 
 The dues amount to $2. 00 per ton with an extra payment 
 at present of 60 cts. per ton, $2.00 for each passenger, and 
 $2.00 to $2.40 for pilotage according to the tonnage of the 
 vessel. 
 
 Many camels are seen starting out from Suez on their 
 tours. Numerous natives, on the banks, follow the ship, 
 crying for "Backshesh," a word used by the natives when 
 begging for money or a gift, while the ship goes at the rate of 
 about four miles per hour. Ships are not allowed to run 
 faster than this rate of speed so as to avoid injury to the 
 embankments caused by the motion of the water. The canal 
 passes through Bitter lake, which Bruasch identifies as the 
 Marah of the Bible where the waters were made sweet by 
 casting a tree into them, when the children of Israel, under 
 Moses, journeyed from Egypt to Canaan. Ex. 15:23. Before 
 we entered Lake Timsah, we passed the foot of the Gebel 
 Mary an, which an Arabian legend points out as the place 
 where Miriam, when smitten with leprosy, for her disap- 
 proval of the marriage of Moses with the Ethiopian woman, 
 spent seven days outside of the camp of the Israelites. 
 Num. 12. 
 
 The canal enters Lake Timsah, or the crocodile lake, on 
 the north bank of which lies the town of Ismalia. The lake 
 is now about six miles in area, and of a beautiful blue color. 
 Before the construction of the canal it was a mere pond of 
 brackish water, and full of reeds. On the 18th of November, 
 1862, the waters of the Mediterranean were let into this 
 basin, which is traversed by two artificial channels for the 
 passage of large vessels. While the channels were being 
 
i48 
 
 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 constructed, this town was the central point of the work, and 
 the residence of numerous officials and traders, so that its 
 traffic soon became very considerable, and it has even been 
 extolled by modern poets as a wonder of the desert, owing to 
 the fact that the mail steamers between Cairo and the great 
 Asiatic and Australian ports are beginning to desert the 
 former route, via Alexandria, in favor of that via Ismalia, 
 
 The climate is pleasant and the air dry, notwithstanding 
 the proximity of the water. The ground, which has been 
 reclaimed from the desert by means of irrigation, has been 
 planted with tasteful gardens. 
 
KARNAK, EGYPT. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 The Land of the Pharaohs. 
 
 MIXED POPULATION — STREETS CROWDED — WATER CARRIERS- 
 TURBANS— ORNAMENTS — VEILING OF WOMEN (SINGLE, 
 MARRIED) — CHILD CARRYING — WATER FOUN- 
 TAIN — MOSLEM'S PRAYER. 
 
 OW we are in the land of the Pharaohs, the 
 land in which the mighty works of God were 
 wrought by the hands of Moses, His servant. 
 Cairo is the largest city in Egypt, and also 
 the seat of government. It is reached by train from Ismalia, 
 a distance of ninety-seven miles. Nowhere do we see such a 
 mixed population of about 400,000, consisting of Germans, 
 Italians, Greeks, French, English. Austrians, Africans, 
 Bedouins, Syrians, Persians, Indians, and others, while there 
 is a host of visitors constantly moving, coming and going. 
 Their object is mostlj; to visit the ancient Egyptian ruins and 
 the many places of interest connected with the Bible. Many 
 also come to this country from Europe and America to spend 
 the cold winter months, as the climate is very mild and 
 uniform, hence well calculated for invalids. 
 
 Oriental life seems to feel the atmosphere of the newer 
 quarters uncongenial, and it must therefore be sought for in 
 the old Arabian quarters, which are still mostly inaccessible 
 for carriages, notwithstanding the many new streets that 
 have been of late years constructed in Cairo. Most of the 
 
152 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 streets in the old part of the town are still unpaved, and they 
 are often exce^ssively dirty. The lanes separating the rows 
 of houses in the Arabian quarters are so narrow that there is 
 hardly room for two riders to pass, and the projecting 
 balconies of the harems with their gratings often nearly 
 meet. The busy traffic in these streets presents an inter- 
 minable, raveled and twisted string of men, women and 
 animals ; of walkers, riders, and carriages of every descrip- 
 tion. Add to this the cracking of the drivers' whips, the 
 jingling of money at the tables of the changers, established 
 at almost every corner of the street, the rattling of the 
 brazen vessels of the water-carriers, the moaning of the 
 camels, braying of donkeys and barking of dogs, and you 
 have a perfect pandemonium. 
 
 Europeans, gentlemen and even ladies, may ride with 
 perfect safety through the midst of all this confusion, and 
 they will often have opportunities of observing most pictur- 
 esque and amusing scenes. The denseness of the crowd 
 seems sometimes to preclude the possibility of further prog- 
 ress, but the hammar, or donkey-boy, is pretty sure to 
 elbow the passage through without much difficulty. Lovers 
 of the picturesque will find such rides very enjoyable. It is 
 not, however, until the traveler has learned to distinguish 
 the various individuals who throng the streets, and under- 
 stands their different pursuits, that he can thoroughly appre- 
 ciate his walks or rides. We will therefore give a brief 
 description of some of the leading characteristics of the 
 different members of the community. 
 
 From a very early period it has been customary for the 
 Arabs to distinguish their different sects, families, and 
 dynasties by the color of their turbans. Green is the 
 
EGYPT.— COLOR OF TURBANS. 
 
 153 
 
 prophet's color. Green turbans, therefore, are the badge 
 of the Sherifs, or descendants of the prophet, and they are 
 also frequently worn by Mecca pilgrims. But the green 
 turban is not much respected in Cairo, where it too often 
 serves as an excuse for laziness ; many of the prophet's 
 descendants now wear white instead. The Ulama, or clergy 
 and scholars, usually wear a very wide and broad, evenly- 
 folded turban of li^ht color. The orthodox length of a 
 
 ^Origuuil riioto.) 
 
 ORIENTAL WOMEN VEILED. 
 
 believer's turban is seven times that of his head, being 
 equivalent to the whole length of his body, in order that the 
 turban may afterwards be used as the wearer's winding sheet, 
 and that this circumstance may familiarize him with the 
 thought of death. The dress and turbans of the Copts, Jews 
 and other non-moslem citizens are generally of a dark color, 
 those of the Copts being blue and those of the Jews being 
 
154 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 yellow, in accordance with the decree issued in the 14th 
 century. Blue is also the color indicative of mourning. 
 
 The women of the lower and rustic classes wear nothing 
 but a blue gown and a veil. Their ornaments consist of 
 silver or copper bracelets, earrings and anklerings, while 
 their chins, arms and chests are often tattooed with blue 
 marks. In Upper Egypt noserings are also frequently seen. 
 The women of the upper classes are never so handsomely 
 dressed in the streets as at home. When equipped for riding 
 or walking, they wear a light-colored silk cloak with very 
 wide sleeves over their home attire. They also don the veil, 
 which consists of a long strip of muslin, covering the whole 
 of the face, except the eyes, and reaching nearly to the feet. 
 Lastly, they put on the habara, a kind of 
 mantle, which, in the case of married women, 
 consists of two breadths of glossy black silk. 
 Thus disguised, they look unnaturally broad 
 and unwieldy, and not unlike bats. Young- 
 girls usually wear a white mantle. The 
 wealthier ladies, who drive in their carriages 
 attended by eunuchs, usually veil their faces 
 up to their eyes with thin gauze, in accord- 
 ^^^SSS^^ ance with the fashion of Constantinople. 
 The figure of Egyptian women in early life is gen- 
 erally upright and graceful. They color their eyelashes 
 and eyelids dark, and their finger and toenails with henna, 
 which gives them a brownish-yellow tint. Among other 
 customs we may also mention the peculiar mode in which a 
 woman carries her child— either astride her shoulder or rest- 
 ing on her hip. With regard to circumcision, weddings and 
 funerals, the ceremonies are similar in all the Egyptian towns. 
 
EGYPTIAN WATEE CAERIEES. 
 
 155 
 
 Amid this busy throng of men 
 and animals resound the various 
 cries of street venders and other 
 persons who transact their business 
 in the open air, and the warning 
 shouts of runners, coachmen, 
 donkey attendants and camel driv- 
 ers. Donkeys and camels are very 
 numerous, and each one has an 
 attendant. One of the most 
 popular characters to be met 
 with in the streets of Cairo, as in most of the other Oriental 
 towns, is the sakka, or water carrier, with his goatskin of 
 water, carried by himself or by a donkey. This individual 
 still carries on his trade, although the water works supply 
 every house in the city, as well as every public place, with 
 water. Many of the sakkas sell water to the people in the 
 streets. These carry their supply of water either in a skin 
 or in a large earthen vessel, on their backs. They offer 
 drinks in a brazen saucer or cup to those passing by, for 
 which they receive a small copper coin, but often times no 
 payment at all is given. 
 
 It is stated that on the occasions of 
 festivals, and particularly on the birthdays 
 of nobles and saints, persons who desire 
 to do a pious work, frequently hire one of 
 the sakkas to dispense water gratuitously. 
 The sakka then shouts in a singing tone, 
 '^ Sehil Allah ya atshan ya moyeh^'''' thus 
 inviting all thirsty persons to drink 
 without money or price, while he occasion- 
 
156 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 ally turns to his employer, who generally stands near 
 him, with the w^ords, "God forgive thy sins," or "God 
 have mercy on thy parents," to which the persons who 
 have partaken of the water reply, "Amin," or Amen; or, 
 "God have mercy on them and us." After numerous bless- 
 ings of a similar kind have been exchanged, the sakka hands 
 the last cup of water to his employer with the words, "The 
 remainder for the liberal man." 
 
 In Egypt, as in the Holy Lands, a supply of good water 
 is a fortune. In Alexandria the water is not so good, and a 
 wealthy man opened a fountain of good water free to all 
 passers by, with this inscription thereon: "Ho, every one 
 that thirsteth, come ye to the water, and he that hath no 
 money, come ye, buy and drink without money and without 
 price." * 
 
 Places of interest are numerous, and as you go from one 
 place to another you hear the voice of the imiezzms^ or 
 priests, from the minarets or spires of the mosque. The 
 rei)etition of prayers five times daily forms one of the chief 
 occupations of faithful Moslems. The person praying must 
 remove his shoes or sandals, and turn his face toward Mecca, 
 as the Jews and some of the Christian sects turn toward 
 Jerusalem or toward the East. They may be seen in their 
 shops, on the streets, or wherever you go, engaged in prayer, 
 quite frequently. They have many different positions and 
 maneuvers to go through before their prayers are completed; 
 and as one dragoman said, being one of their number, that 
 if ever they were disturbed, or saw anyone laughing at them, 
 they must commence again, as that was not good. How 
 much we Christian people could learn of those who are far 
 
 * Isaiah 55:1. 
 
(O) igiiKil PJioto.) 
 3I0HAaiMEDANS PRAYING. 
 
 Would you fear to have your windows open 
 
 . Three times each day, 
 If sinners saw that you were kneeling 
 Three times to pray ? 
 
 Would you otter up a bold petition, 
 
 If well you knew 
 That awful den of roaring lions 
 
 Awaited you ? 
 
 The lesson taught is not to otter 
 
 A world-wide prayer: 
 'Tis duty first, and then the promise 
 
 Of heavenly care. 
 
i 
 
MOSLEM PEAYEES. 
 
 159 
 
 beneath us in light, knowledge and information regarding 
 the one true God ! Their hours of prayer are : (1) A little 
 after sunset ; (2) about one and one-half hours after sunset ; 
 (3) daybreak ; (4) midday ; (5) afternoon, about one and one- 
 half hours before sunset. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Dervishes and the Tombs, 
 dancing. and howling dervishes and mode of worship— 
 
 CITIDEL — TOMBS OF THE MAMELUKES— KHALIFS MOSQUE 
 
 OF SULTAN HASAN-TOMBS OF THE KHEDIVES-ISLAND 
 
 OF ROIDA— COPTIC CHURCH— HOLY FAMILY 
 
 SHELTERED— JOSEPH'S WELL — 
 
 AMERICAN MISSION, 
 
 ''RIDAY is the usual .day when the Howling and 
 Dancino; Dervishes are engaged in their peculiar 
 and fanatical mode of religious worship. The 
 dancing dervishes perform their Zikr, as they 
 call it, within a circular space about thirty feet in diameter 
 and enclosed by a railing, while on the outside of the railing 
 is a space for visitors to stand, and on the left above us is a 
 gallery enclosed with lattice work in which the women are 
 enclosed. With slow, measured steps the shekh comes for- 
 ward, followed by a dervish, and takes his seat on a carpet 
 opposite the entrance. The other dervishes next enter the 
 circle one after another, in the order of their age, wearing 
 long gowns and conical hats. They walk solemnly up to 
 their superior, make him a profound obeisance, kiss the hem 
 of his robe, and take up their positions to his left. From the 
 gallery is presently heard a rude kind of music, consisting 
 of a single prolonged tone of a stringed instrument accom- 
 panied by a flute and a voice rising and falling. Time is 
 
EGYPT.— DANCING DERVISHES. 
 
 161 
 
 beaten by a tambourine with great rapidity and vigor. The 
 singer recites a hymn expressing the most ardent love of 
 God. As soon as the singing ceases, the dervishes rise and 
 walk in procession three times around the circle, headed by 
 the shekh, each of them, including the shekh himself, mak- 
 ing a low bow, in passing the spot from which the shekh has 
 just risen. Then they resume their seats and the shekh with 
 closed eyes, and in a deep, solemn voice, begins to murmur a 
 prayer in which the word " Allah " alone is audible. When 
 the prayer is over the dervishes divest themselves of their 
 
 gowns, under which they wear a long, loose, light colored 
 skirt or kilt, reaching down to their ankles, and a more 
 closely fitting vest. They then present themselves before 
 the shekh, each in his turn, making him a profound obei- 
 sance, and begin to move slowly round in a circle. They 
 turn on the left foot, propelling themselves by touching the 
 waxed floor from time to time with the right. Most of them 
 make about forty gyrations per minute, but some of them 
 accomplish sixty and even more. The whole of the Zikr is 
 performed by the dervishes noiselessly, with closed eyes, 
 11 
 
162 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 and outstretched arms, the palm of one hand being turned up- 
 wards and the other downwards, and their heads either thrown 
 back or leaning on one side. During the dance soft strains 
 of music arc heard, while the beat of the tambourine 
 gradually accelerates, and the skirts of the performers fly 
 out in a wide circle like an opened umbrella. The tones of 
 the flute become more and more shrill until a signal is given 
 by the shekh when the music ceases, the dancers stop, cross 
 their arms over their chests, and resume their seats. The 
 dance is performed three times by all except the superior. 
 The latter, however, walks several times noiselessly through 
 the midst of the dancers, who, although their eyes are closed, 
 touch neither him nor one another. The whole service 
 occupies about one hour. 
 
 The howling or shouting dervishes perform their Zikr at 
 Cairo, also on Friday, at another place. These dervishes 
 take a standing position, swinging their heads backward and 
 forward down to their knees, with their long hair swinging 
 and switching, while every bow produces a groan, until they 
 are almost exhausted, while some inferior music is heard, by 
 which time is kept. At a certain notice all stop. Again 
 they start, led by a leader, and so on. At other times they 
 assume a kneeling or crouching position, with their heads 
 and chests bent downwards. In this attitude they sometimes 
 remain for hours, incessantly shouting the Mosleni confession 
 of faith. It need not be added that the American and 
 Christian travelers will find these performances unpleasing 
 and indeed painful. 
 
 Visits were made, in company with Rev. and Mrs. 
 Hazen, from Boston, to the citadel, the tombs of the Mame- 
 lukes, tombs of the Khalifs, the mosque of Sultan Hasan, 
 
(Original Photo.) 
 RUINS OF THE TEMPLE OF DIA.NA, EPHESUS. 
 
 "Away from the ruin! — Oh, hurry ye on, 
 While the sword of the angel yet slumbers undrawn! 
 Away from the doom'd and deserted of God — 
 Away, for the spoiler is rushing abroad!" 
 
 The warning was spoken — the righteous had gone, 
 And proud ones of Sodom were feasting alone; 
 All gay was the banquet— the revel was long, 
 With the pouring of wine and the breathing of song. 
 
EGYPT.— ROYAL TOMBS. 
 
 165 
 
 built 777 years ago by himself, and who, when it was com- 
 pleted, had the two hands of the architect cut off, so that he 
 could not make another like it or better. The salary of the 
 architect during the construction was £300 per day. 
 
 The tombs of the Khedives of Egypt are enclosed 
 in a large mosque, costly, grandly, and durably built, and 
 the monuments and tombs are very richly finished with 
 carvings and gilding. The floors are all covered with the 
 
 PALM TREES, EGYPT. 
 
 finest of Brussels carpets. The tombs are twentj'-four in 
 number and all belong to the Royal family of Egypt. 
 
 On Sunday, February 24th, in company with our friends 
 we attended the American mission service and Sunday 
 school which is apparently in a very prosperous condition, 
 where many warmhearted men and women are engaged in 
 teaching and instructing the lower classes in the ways of 
 
166 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Christ and the Bible. It is a grand sight to see, in the differ- 
 ent parts of the world, the children brought together and so 
 nicely cared for by the Christian people of this and other 
 nations. May the blessings of the Most High attend all 
 the proper efforts that are put forth for the advancement of 
 His cause and kingdom. 
 
 The Island of Roida is one of the places which nearly 
 every one would like to visit, as one of the noted places of 
 the Bible. In a small boat we crossed the branch of the Nile, 
 which landed us on the island. Traditions locate this as the 
 place where Moses was taken by his mother and put into an 
 ark of bulrushes, laying it in the flags by the river brink, and 
 the daughter of Pharaoh came down to bathe and when she 
 saw the ark amongst the flags, she had it brought to her. 
 When she had opened it she saw the child and beheld that 
 the babe wept; she had compassion on it, and said, " This is 
 one of the Hebrew children," and she called his name Moses, 
 she said, "because I drew him out of the waters." Moses 
 was appointed of God as a great deliverer to lead His people 
 out of bondage, and in childhood the Lord had made provis- 
 ions for his escape. A short distance from the crossing to 
 the island is the Coptic church, underneath which a narrow 
 flight of twelve steps descends to the crypt, a small vaulted 
 chapel under the choir, consisting of nave and aisles. At the 
 end of the nave is an altar in the form of an early Christian 
 tomb-niche, which tradition indicates as the spot where the 
 Virgin and child reposed. We have no reason to believe 
 that all these traditions are correct, or can be relied upon, 
 but this we all know, that the Holy Family fled from Herod 
 in the land of Judea for the saving of the child's life because 
 Herod sought to destroy it, and, as the Lord had instructed, 
 
THE FLIGHT TO EGYPT. 
 
EGYPT.— JOSEPH'S WELL. 169 
 
 they came to Egypt; so we have no reason to doubt that they 
 were here, and were also sheltered and cared for. What 
 thoughts and inspirations fill the heart and mind by coming 
 to these places of sacred interest. 
 
 The so called well of Joseph is a square shaft, sunk into 
 the limestone rock to a depth of 280 feet, containing some- 
 what brackish water, which is brought to the surface by 
 means of the sakiyehs, or ICgyptian water wheels, one above 
 the other, worked by oxen passing up and down a winding 
 way cut around the well, in the solid rocks, with frequent 
 openings to look out and down into the well. Since the 
 completion of the new waterworks, however, the well has 
 lost its former importance. When the citadel was con- 
 structed here in the twelfth century, the builders discovered 
 an ancient shaft filled with sand, which was caused to be re- 
 opened and named after Joseph, Yusuf's or Joseph's well. 
 This circumstance gives rise to the traditions which were 
 chiefly current among the Jews, that this was the well into 
 which the Joseph of the Scriptures was put by his brethren, 
 and the story is still faithfully repeated by the dragomen. 
 Others claim the well to have been constructed by Joseph 
 previous to the great famine in Egypt, at which time Joseph 
 was appointed to oversee and govern the country. 
 
CHAPTEK XX. 
 
 The Pyramids, and Up the Nile, 
 
 pyramids — sphinx — memphis— up the nile — avater wheels — 
 
 working in the fields— necropolis— ramses ii.— sak- 
 
 kara — apis tombs — sacred bulls— passage to 
 
 the tombs — monster coffins — mari- 
 
 ette — lasting impressions. 
 
 HE Pyramids are the oldest and most w^on- 
 derful Dionaments of human industry yd 
 discovered. The Pyramids of Egypt form 
 one of five groups of pyramids within the 
 precincts of the Necropolis of the ancient city of Memphis. 
 The exact time of their construction, as historians give it, is 
 during the seventh centuiy, B. C, and may have extended 
 till about the time of the Pharaohs. Even at that time the 
 kings, as well as their subjects, seem to have preferred rock 
 tombs to mausolea above ground. The Great Pyramid is 
 called by the Egyptians "Khufu Khut," or the glorious 
 throne of Khufu. The length of each side is now 750 feet ; 
 the present perpendicular height is 451 feet ; the height of 
 each sloping side is now 568 feet ; the stupendous structure 
 covers an area of nearly thirteen acres. The ascent of the 
 Pyramids, though fatiguing, is perfectly safe. There are a 
 number of Bedouins in attendance there at all times, who, 
 for a small fee, assist those who wish to ascend. Some make 
 the ascent by the assistance of three men, one at either side 
 
EGYPT.— THE PYEAMIDS. 
 
 171 
 
 pulling by the hands, and one at the back pushins;. It is an 
 experience that will not soon be forgotten. My friends, 
 Rev. and Mrs. Hazen, did not undertake the laborious task 
 of ascent. The sun shone very warmly, and the work of 
 climbing was tiresome, as the steps are from two to three 
 feet high. On the top there is a space of about twenty feet 
 where a man can rest. The view from this elevated position 
 is grand and striking, and fully repays one for the fatigue in 
 gaining it. There is, possibly, no other place in the world 
 from which life and death, fatality and desolation, are seen 
 in so close connection and in such marked contrast. 
 
 PYRAMID AND SPHINX. 
 
 Looking west, and away from the Nile, we see glaring 
 tracts of sand and many colorless monuments. On bare 
 plateaus of rock stand the other Pyramids and the Sphinx, 
 the latter rearing its head from the sand like some monster 
 suffocated by the dust. To the south those of Sakkara will 
 be seen, of which an account will be given hereafter. The 
 descent of the Great Pyramid is more rapidly accomplished 
 than the ascent, but is hardly less fatiguing. A visit to the 
 
^F^ 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 f 
 
 ^_^^_^^ ^F-^" 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -3^,^^,^ — 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 ■^^^^^p 
 
 
 ^^^^&©J 
 
 172 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 interior of the Great Pyramid is comparatively uninteresting 
 to the ordinary visitor. The explorer has to crawl and 
 clamber through low and narrow passages, which, at places, 
 especially near the entrance, are not above three and one- 
 half feet high and four feet wide. The stones on the floor 
 are often extremely slippery, and the confined air smells 
 strongl}^ of bats. 
 
 The Sphinx, which, 
 next to the Pyramidb 
 themselves, is the most 
 famous monument in 
 this vast burial-ground. 
 is hewn out of the nat 
 ural rock, and, with 
 some aid from artificial 
 m a s o n r 3^, has been 
 moulded into the shape 
 of a recumbent lion, 
 with the head of a man. f 
 The body was left in a - 
 rough form, but the head 
 was originally most carefully executed. The entire height 
 of this wonderful monument, from the crown of the 
 head to the base upon which the fore legs of the lion 
 rest, is said to be sixty-six feet. Not long ago the head, 
 neck, and a small portion of the back were alone 
 visible, but at this time the whole front part of the 
 figure rises clear of the sand. The ear, according to Mariette, 
 is four and a half feet, the nose five feet seven inches, the 
 mouth seven feet seven inches in length, and the extreme 
 breadth of the face is thirteen feet eight inches. If a person 
 
EGYPT.— THE SPHINX. 173 
 
 stands on the upper part of the ear he cannot stretch his 
 hand as far as the crown of the head, and the space between 
 these points must have been greater when the head decora- 
 tion, which, as well as the greater part of the beard, is now 
 broken off, was still intact. There is a hollow in the head, 
 into which one of the Arabs, if desired, will climb. The face 
 was deplorably mutilated at a comparatively recent period 
 by a fanatic, shekh, and afterward by the barbarous Mame- 
 lukes, who used it as a target. It would appear, from 
 Abdellatt's accounts, that it was in perfect preservation in 
 his time. The face is very pleasing, and is of a graceful 
 and beautiful type ; one might almost say that it smiles 
 winningly. 
 
 We also visited the ancient Memphis of the Bible, and 
 the Necropolis in which the Egyptian dead were buried,^ 
 including Sakkara and the Pyramids ; also the caves, vaults, 
 and tombs almost beyond description. 
 
 In company with other Americans, we took a small boat 
 at Cairo and started up the river Nile, of which the Bible 
 speaks so much, leaving the Island of Roida on our left, and 
 going on toward Upper Egypt, a wide tract of level land on 
 both sides of the river, which is overflowed in the wet season 
 of the year. The river still divides and encircles a tract of 
 land, forming islands. On the banks of the river many water 
 wheels are seen, to which oxen, having their eyes tied shut 
 with a cloth, are attached. It is claimed that the oxen, being 
 thus blinded, need no one to drive or urge them. The water 
 is drawn up and emptied into a ditch on the bank of the 
 river, which carries it into the country for irrigation pur- 
 poses. Many are seen drawing water by hand and pouring 
 
 1 lIosea9:P). 
 
If4 
 
 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 it into ditches, while in other places canals have been dug for 
 the purpose of carrying water into the country. The natives, 
 working in the fields with their long Egyptian costumes, 
 present a very interesting appearance. There are many palm 
 groves to be seen. 
 
 After going a distance of about twenty miles we leave 
 the boat, and find there are plenty of donkeys and drivers in 
 
 EGYPTIAN WELL NEAR CAIRO. 
 
 readiness to convey the visitors to places of interest. A short 
 distance from the river Nile we entered a shady palm grove 
 strewn with blocks of granite, broken pottery and fragments 
 of brick. This is the ancient site of Memphis, which is now 
 very interesting from a historical point of view only. Were 
 it not for the vast Necropolis to the west of the ancient city, 
 no one would imagine that one of the most famous and 
 populous capitals of antiquity had once stood here. 
 
EGYPT.— THE NECEOPOLIS. ill 
 
 The Egyptians, from the earliest period down to the 
 Roman imperial epoch, built their edifices, with the excep- 
 tion of palaces and temples, of large sun-dried brick, made 
 from Nile mud ; but even the public buildings of Memphis 
 have entirely disappeared, as the stones were carried off in 
 former centuries to build other edifices on the right bank of 
 the Nile. The narrow streets of this city are said to have 
 been half a day's journey in length, even down to the twelfth 
 century. 
 
 After a few minutes' walk further on we come to the 
 Colossal Statues of Ramses II. The first of these, discovered 
 a short time ago, is made of granite, and lies on its back on 
 a slight eminence, so that in order to see the face it is neces- 
 sary to climb to a position on the breast. Further on we 
 reach the hut which conceals the Second Colossus, which 
 historians claim was erected by Ramses II. after his victories 
 over the people of the East. 
 
 There are a number of holes and hollows near these 
 statues, in which we observed remains of foundations, the 
 most important of which is supposed to be the foundation of 
 a temple of Ptah (Vulcan). 
 
 The Necropolis, or grave-yard, of Sakkara contains 
 sepulchral monuments of every kind, from the pyramid to 
 the rock-hewn cavern, dating both from the ancient and 
 the latter empire. Ancient writers have recorded that the 
 pyramids at Memphis were eleven in number, of which many 
 are no longer visible, while others may yet stand for many 
 centuries. 
 
 Amongst other sights are the Apis Tombs, of which we 
 will give a short description and illustrations. In the subter- 
 ranean part of the Egyptian Serapeum are the Apis Tombs, 
 
 12 
 
178 
 
 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 hewn in the rock, where the Apis bulls were interred. The 
 worship of Apis, or the sacred bulls, belongs to the religion 
 of the ancient Egyptians. The sacred animals and the 
 mixed forms, which generally consist of human bodies with 
 the heads of animals, frequently recur as companions of the 
 gods, or are used as emblems of the deities themselves. In 
 each case those animals were selected whose inherent dispo- 
 sitions and habits corresponded to the power or phenomenon 
 of nature personified in the god. Specimens of these animals 
 were kept in and near the temple, and the finest of them 
 were embalmed after death, and revered in the form of 
 mummies, with the belief that, like the soul of a man, the 
 spirit of the deceased bull also was united with Osiris and 
 became the Osiris Apis. The carcass was solemnly interred 
 in a special vault. 
 
 Among other animals was the cow, represented as the 
 patient mother and nurse ; the goddess of love, the bride 
 of Ptah, was represented with the head of a fierce lion or a 
 cat ; the crocodile was sacred to Sebek, the god who caused 
 
 the water of the Nile to rise; 
 and the hawk, which soars to- 
 ward heaven like the sun, was 
 dedicated to Ra. The symbol 
 of Ptah was the black Apis bull, 
 whose great power of generation 
 seemed analagous to the never- 
 ceasing creative energy of the 
 black soil of Egypt. While 
 there are many tombs to which 
 we might refer, we will call 
 the attention of the reader 
 
EGYPT.— THE APIS TOMBS. 179 
 
 to but one of the many. The passages to the Apis Tombs, 
 which are now open to visitors, have an aggregate length of 
 380 yards, and are about ten feet in width and seventeen and 
 one-half feet in height. Passing through the gateway we 
 enter a chamber of considerable dimensions, with niches of 
 various sizes in the bare limestone walls bearing inscriptions 
 which have yielded much valuable information. Visitors 
 light their candles here. The guide now proceeds toward 
 the right. After taking a few steps we observe at our feet 
 a huge block of black granite, which once formed the lid of a 
 sarcophagus (or coffin, as we would call it). A little further 
 beyond this we reach an enormous granite sarcophagus which 
 so nearly fills the passage that there is just room to pass it 
 on the right side. This passage is flanked with the side 
 chambers, about twenty-six feet in height, the pavements 
 and vaulted ceilings of which are constructed of excellent 
 Mokattain stone. Twenty-four of the chambers still contain 
 the huge sarcophagi, in which the Apis mummies were 
 deposited. Each of these monster coffins consists of a single 
 block of black or red polished granite, or of limestone, and 
 averages thirteen feet in length, seven feet in width and 
 eleven feet in height, and no less than sixty-five tons in 
 weight. The covers, five of which are composed of separate 
 pieces of stone cemented together, have, in several instances, 
 been pushed to one side, and on the top of some of them the 
 Arabs, for some unexplained reason, have built rude masses 
 of masonry. All the sarcophagi, when discovered by 
 Mariette, had been emptied of their contents, with the 
 exception of two, which still contained a number of trinkets. 
 Much more could be added to the subject, but we will give 
 the words of the fortunate man who first excavated them. 
 
180 
 
 AROUND TBfE GLOBE. 
 
 "I confess," says Mariette, "that when I penetrated for 
 the first time, on the 12th of November, 1851, into the Apis 
 vaults, I was so profoundly struck with astonishment that 
 the feeling is still fresh in my mind, although five years have 
 elapsed since then. Owing to some chance, which it is diffi- 
 cult to account for, a chamber which had been walled up in 
 the thirtieth year of the reign of Ramses II. had escaped the 
 notice of the plunderers of the vaults, and 1 was so fortunate 
 
 INTERIOR OF THE APIS TOMBS. PRINCIPAL PASSAGE. 
 
 as to find it untouched. Although 3,700 years had elapsed 
 since it was closed, everything in the chamber seemed to be 
 precisely in its original condition. The finger-marks of the 
 Egyptians, who had inserted the last stone in the wall built 
 to conceal the doorway, were still recognizable on the lime. 
 There were also the marks of naked feet imprinted on the 
 sand which lay in one corner of the tomb chamber. Every- 
 thing was in its original condition in this tomb, where the 
 embalmed remains of the bull had lain undisturbed for thirty- 
 
EGYPTIAN FINGER MARKS. 
 
 181 
 
 seven centuries. Many travelers would think it terrible to 
 live here alone in the desert for a number of years, but such 
 discoveries as that of the chamber of Ramses II. produced 
 impressions compared with which everything else sinks into 
 insignificance, and which one constantly desires to renew." 
 
 i 
 
CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Museum of Gizeh and Heliopolis. 
 
 MUSEUM — EGYPTIAN COLLECTIONS— COFFINS — MUMMIES-DIFFERENT 
 NECROPOLES— ANCIENT JEWELRY — ORNAMENTS — OBELISK 
 OF HELIOPOLIS — VIRGIN AND CHILD HID — PALM 
 TREES — LAND OF GOSHEN — CANALS — RAIL- 
 ROAD CUT. 
 
 HE museum of Gizeh is about three miles from 
 the principal part of the city, and is one of 
 the most remarkable places to visit in all 
 Egypt, as the museum of Egyptian antiqui- 
 ties is the most valuable collection of the kind in existence. 
 Its value is much enhanced by the fact that the place where 
 the various objects were discovered is in nearly every case 
 precisely known. 
 
 All kinds of coffins and mummies and other antiquities 
 are seen here, of which we will describe only a few. Here 
 are the coffins and mummies of five kings dated 1591 B. C, 
 and others of even an earlier date; and statues dated 3000 
 B. C. To the surprise of all, these coffins and statues appear 
 quite new, and are in a well preserved condition, the mum- 
 mies, which are dry and hard, showing their features remark- 
 ably well. It is a wonderful place in which to spend hours 
 or even days, in viewing the remains of ancient kings. 
 
 In the middle of room V. is a sarcophagus, in red gran- 
 ite, of Prince Hubaif of Memphis, (2840 B. C.) while others 
 
EGYPT.— HELIOPOLIS. 183 
 
 date back to 3800 B. C. These relics were taken out of the 
 great excavations made in Egypt, from the tombs and caves 
 of the different necropoles. 
 
 The jewels of Queen Aah-hotep, mother of Aahnies I. , 
 (1600 B. C.) found with the mummies of the queen at Drah 
 Abu'I Negga (Thebes) in 1860 A. D., consist of bracelets of 
 gold, double-hinged bracelets, necklace of gold, gold chains, 
 gold boats, boats and crews of silver, dagger and sheath of 
 gold, golden breastplate, mirror, anklets, armlets and many 
 other valuable things. We saw also the ornaments of the 
 Princess Hathor dated 2000 B. C. , as well as thousands of 
 other objects of interest. 
 
 0, what thoughts and wonders these things awaken in 
 the mind of man ! While traveling in that ancient country 
 so much may be seen of which the new world knows nothing; 
 and, indeed, when we compare the new and old worlds, 
 they are to each other as a young child to an aged man of 
 great experience. 
 
 Many things from Bible times may be seen, and many 
 questions, to which the Scriptures frequently refer, can be 
 settled in the mind and heart of man. 
 
 HELIOPOLIS, OR THE CITY OF ON. 
 
 1, in company with others, took the train and made a 
 visit to Heliopolis, or the city of On. In Gen. 41:45 we 
 are informed that Pharaoh gave Joseph to wife Asenath, the 
 daughter of Poti-pherah, priest of On. Here we visited 
 the Obelisk of Heliopolis, also the tree of the Virgin, and the 
 well where Joseph, Mary and the child stopped. The tree, 
 a sycamore, is not the original one, but one planted in its 
 place in the year 1672. It measures about ten feet by three 
 feet, is irregular in shape and considerably decayed ; yet thej 
 
184 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 branches are green and seem to thrive. At this place, accord- 
 ing to tradition, the Virgin and child once rested under its 
 shade during the flight from Herod, and there is another tra- 
 dition to the effect that the persecuted Mary concealed her- 
 self with the child in a hollow of the trunk and that a spider 
 so completely covered the opening with its web as to screen 
 her effectually from observation. The garden is watered by 
 means of a reservoir fed by springs. 
 
 We will now call the reader's attention to the land of 
 Goshen, to which the Bible refers so frequently, and in 
 which the children of Israel dwelt, after Joseph finally be- 
 came ruler of Egypt, having previously been sold by his 
 brethren to the merchantmen for twenty pieces of silver. 
 
 And they "brought Joseph into Egypt," but Joseph 
 grew up and found favor with God, and was endowed with 
 wisdom so that he could interpret the dreams of the Butler 
 and^Baker, and also the dreams of Pharaoh, whereupon he 
 found great favor in the sight of the king, "and Pharaoh 
 said unto Joseph, Forasmuch as God hath shewed thee all 
 this, there is none so discreet and wise as thou art: thou shalt 
 be over my house and according unto thy word shall all my 
 people be ruled: only in the throne will I be greater than 
 thou. And Pharaoh said unto Joseph, See, I have set thee 
 over all the land of Egypt." ^ And Joseph went out, "and he 
 gathered up all the food of the seven years, which were 
 in the land of Egypt, and laid up the food in the cities: 
 the food of the field, which was round about every city, 
 laid he up in the same." ^ 
 
 "And the famine was over all the face of the earth: " 
 and Joseph opened all the storehouses, and sold, because the 
 
 ^Gen. 41:39— 41. 2Qen. 41:48. 
 
JOSEPH I:N EGYPT. 185 
 
 famine was so sore in all lands. "And Joseph's ten brethren 
 went down to buy corn in Egypt," for the famine was in the 
 land of Canaan, and Joseph made himself known to his 
 brethren and kissed them and wept upon them, and after that 
 his brethren talked with him. 
 
 And it pleased Pharaoh, and Pharaoh said unto Joseph, 
 " Say unto thy brethren. Take your father and your house- 
 holds, and come unto me: and I will give you the good of the 
 land of Egypt. "^ And the sons of Israel took Jacob, their 
 father, and their children, and their wives; and they took 
 cattle and their goods which they had gotten in the land of 
 Canaan, and came into Egypt, Jacob and all his seed with 
 him. ^ And Pharaoh spoke to Joseph saying, "The land of 
 Egypt is before thee, in the best of the land make thy father 
 and thy brethren to dwell ; in the land of Goshen let them 
 dwell." ' 
 
 So the land of Goshen is the land in which the brethren 
 and their posterity dwelt. "And thou shalt dwell in the land 
 of Goshen, and thou shalt be near unto me, thou, and thy 
 children, and thy children's children, and thy flocks, and thy 
 herds, and all that thou hast;"* but in a later passage the 
 sacred records mention the cities in Goshen in which the 
 Israelites were compelled to work at the tasks imposed on 
 them by Pharaoh. "Therefore they did set over them task- 
 masters to afflict them with their burdens, and they built for 
 Pharaoh treasure cities, Pithom and Raamses." ^ 
 
 The land of Goshen is located north-east of Cairo, and 
 about eighty miles from Cairo are the ruins which mark the 
 site of the Pithom of the Bible, where the Jews served in 
 hard bondage. 
 
 iGen. 45:15— 18. 2Gen.46:5— 6. ^ Gen. 47 : 6. * Gen. 45 : 10. ^Ex.l:!!. 
 
186 
 
 AROUND TitE GLOBE; 
 
 The country is very fertile and well cultivated, and is 
 intersected by many irrigating canals. There are also many 
 wells and water-wheels to be seen. It is sad to think the 
 children of Israel were once enslaved in this beautiful coun- 
 try ; but by the strong hand of God they were delivered, and 
 we can much more rejoice that the way to liberty is now 
 open for all who are in spiritual captivity, and that we can 
 go and possess the land promised by God. 
 
 The palm groves and the green crops are growing here, 
 while just beyond is the barren sandy desert, where the sand 
 drifts like snow in our country. The railroad company has 
 a force of men constantly at work keeping the cuts open, 
 which would otherwise be drifted full of sand in a compara- 
 tively short time. 
 
 We are now near the seaport, and we look back upon the 
 land of Egypt once more, and then bid adieu, passing on 
 toward the Promised Land. 
 
CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Port Said, Egypt, to Joppa, Palestine. 
 
 HISTORY — SAILING FOR JOPPA — LAND IN VIEW — JOPPA SEA PORT — 
 PASSPORT — HOTELS— HOUSE OF SIMON, THE TANNER — PLAIN 
 OF SHARON — FLOWERS AND PRODUCTIONS — RAIL- 
 ROAD — STATIONS — ORANGE GROVES- 
 JERUSALEM— CONFUSION. 
 
 ORT SAID is a town of about 37,000 inhabitants, 
 and its origin is due to the Suez Canal. The 
 new railroad and the increase of navigation 
 through the canal make it a prosperous town. 
 At this place the ship calls, on her way to Joppa and other 
 Mediterranean points. 
 
 On the 7th day of March we were sailing toward the 
 Holy Land. The sea was very calm ; the moon and stars 
 were shining very brightly while we were moving along on 
 the great sea, so often referred to in the Bible. On the 
 south of us land was seen, and along that coast was the old 
 Egyptian and Damascus road. 
 
 The first sight of the Holy Land was Joppa, where so 
 many interesting Bible lessons occurred. The ships anchor 
 about one-half mile out in the sea from Joppa, on account of 
 the very shallow and rocky harbor. The scenery is beautiful 
 from the ship, the town lying in front of us on a hill. 
 
 The launch boats were all around the ship to convey the 
 passengers to the shore, while the water was raging and the 
 
188 AEOIJ^^D THE GLOBE. 
 
 small boats pitching and rolling so that it seemed almost 
 impossible to land. A reef of sharp, jagged rocks, over 
 which the sarf breaks fiercely, runs parallel -with the shore. 
 A narrow opening admits boats to the harbor inside. The 
 calling and chatting of the natives in their boats, while their 
 agents come and go for their passengers, make it very 
 lively. The advice to all is, "Give yourselves into the hands 
 of the boatmen," while they stand below, on the little boats, 
 which are rocking, swinging and tossing in such an uneasy 
 manner that it takes help for one to get into them ; but one 
 after another was caught hold of by the boatmen until all 
 were safely aboard their little crafts, and in a short time we 
 were all on the shore. 
 
 Calls were made for passports, and the custom officers 
 were at work inspecting the baggage and giving permits. 
 Soon we were all landed at the Jerusalem Hotel, about 
 thirty-five in number, mostly Americans. 
 
 A rich, fertile plain stretches for twelve miles inland, 
 and then a range of hills bound the view. Joppa was always 
 the seaport of Jerusalem, and it was here that Hiram, King 
 of Tyre, sent the wood to King Solomon that was cut out of 
 Lebanon, for the building of the temple, ^ and from here 
 it was taken to Jerusalem. From Joppa Jonah also went 
 into a ship, and paid his fare, and fled from the presence of 
 the Lord ; ' but the Lord invariably follows those that would 
 flee from Him. As the sea became very boisterous, and fear 
 came upon all, they began to cast forth the wares, that were 
 in the ship, into the sea, to lighten it of its burden. But 
 Jonah was fast asleep. So the master came and said unto 
 him, "What meanest thou, O sleeper? Arise, call upon thy 
 
 i2Chron. 2:16. 2joj,ahl:3. 
 
STOKr OF JONAH. 191 
 
 God." And they said one to the other, "Come and let us 
 cast lots, that we may know for whose cause this evil is upon 
 us." So they cast lots, and the lot fell upon Jonah. And 
 Jonah humbly acknowledged and said unto them, "I am an 
 Hebrew, and I fear the Lord, the God of heaven, which hath 
 
 JONAH AND THE WHALE. 
 
 made the sea and the dry land." And they were exceedingly 
 afraid, and said unto him, "What shall we do unto thee, 
 that the sea may be calm unto us? " And Jonah said, "Take 
 me up and cast me forth into the sea, so shall the sea be calm 
 unto you." Nevertheless, the men rowed hard to bring the 
 
192 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 ship to the land, but they coald not. So they took up Jonah 
 and cast him forth into the sea, and the sea ceased from her 
 raging. But we find the Lord had prepared a great fish 
 to swallow Jonah ; and Jonah prayed unto the Lord, and the 
 Lord heard him, ' as He always will, and the Lord spake 
 unto the fish, and it vomited Jonah out upon the dry land. ^ 
 What a lesson this ought to teach everyone— not to flee from 
 what the Lord requires of us, but humbly to yield obedi- 
 ence! He, as a wise parent, will not require more of us 
 than we are able to perform. 
 
 At Joppa the widows stood weeping, and showing the 
 coats and garments which Dorcas had made while she was 
 yet with them. ' " And they called for Peter, who put them 
 all forth, and kneeled down and prayed, and turning him to 
 the body said unto her, Arise. And she opened her eyes ; 
 and when she saw Peter, she sat up." This is a very good 
 example. If we are in distress or in sickness, the apostle 
 says, "Is any sick among you, let him call for the elders of 
 the church ; and let them pray over him, anointing him with 
 oil in the name of the Lord : and the prayer of faith shall 
 save the sick, and the Lord shall raise him up ; and if he have 
 committed sins, they shall be forgiven him." ^ 
 
 On the shore stood the house of Simon the tanner, to 
 which we made a visit. Here Peter was taught by a vision 
 that Jewish exclusiveness must come to an end, and that 
 henceforth he should call nothing common or unclean. ^ 
 
 Here Napoleon Bonaparte infamously shot four thousand 
 Turkish troops, who had surrendered as prisoners of war. 
 
 The population of Joppa is about eight thousand, but 
 indications point to an increase. The plain of Sharon lies 
 
 ' Jonah 2: 1. -' jonah 2: 10. ^Acts 9: 36-43. * James 5: 14-15. ^Acts 10: 1-18 
 
THE PLAIN OF SHAEOK. 195 
 
 along the coast north of Joppa. It is famed for its fertility 
 and beauty. Its fields bear rich harvests. Groves of oranges, 
 lemons, olives and palms are interspersed with many vine- 
 yards, and in spring, in many places, it is covered with a 
 profusion of flowers. Indeed, the blossoms and the flowers 
 of various kinds send forth a perfume which is very invigor- 
 ating, in connection with the pleasant climate and the sea 
 breeze. In Solomon's Song of songs we find the expression, 
 "I am the rose of Sharon,"^ in which the rose is used as 
 a symbol to express the highest ideal of grace and beauty. 
 Now " Sharon is like a wilderness." ^ A few years ago there 
 were only a few wretched hamlets of mud huts on the entire 
 plain. But it will not be so always; once more "Sharon 
 shall be a fold for flocks." ' 
 
 RAILWAY TO JERUSALEM. 
 
 This railway, fifty-four miles in length, was opened in 
 1862. We heard it proclaimed in Jerusalem that it was the 
 fulfilling of the prophecy in Isa. 35:8. "And an highway 
 shall be there, and a way, and it shall be called The way of 
 holiness. " This we consider an erroneous idea. The prophet 
 has reference to the blessings of the gospel and the entire 
 deliverance from sin, through the cleansing power of His 
 precious blood. There are five stations between Joppa and 
 Jerusalem. Crossing the plain of Sharon, the first station is 
 Lod, the Lydda of the New Testament, situated among the 
 palms. Here the Apostle Peter healed Eneas of the palsy. * 
 The next station is Ramleh, where there are not less than 
 twelve square miles of orange groves. 
 
 The Jerusalem station is two thousand four hundred and 
 thirty-five feet above the sea level. Hence the railroad rises 
 1 Song of Solomon 2:1. ■ Isa. 33. ^ Isa. 65 : 10. ♦ Acts 9: 33-35. 
 
196 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 rapidly as it approaches the holy city. It is constructed on 
 the narrow gauge plan, and the journey occupies about three 
 hours. At this season the trains are packed to their utmost 
 capacity, as there are many visitors, tourists and pilgrims 
 from all countries, especially pilgrims from Europe, who 
 come by the thousands. Many go afoot from Joppa to 
 Jerusalem, others on donkeys and in carriages ; we went on 
 a special train. We went up toward the holy city, around 
 curves and through mountains, until at last we caught the 
 first glimpse of the city. Oh, what impressions crowd the 
 mind, making one feel as though he should bow to everyone, 
 and pull off his shoes before entering ! As the train came up 
 slowly around the curve, with the leper hospital and the 
 German colony in view, we arrived at the station, where the 
 first of the Jerusalem life is seen. We did not feel well at 
 the time, being weary, and could scarcely realize that we 
 were in the "Land of Christ." The crowding and soliciting 
 of the natives and hackmen.is very confusing. When an 
 individual first arrives, seeing the country and towns, hills 
 and valleys, orange and olive groves, vines and fig trees, and 
 alleys, walls, houses and temples, donkeys, camels, carriages 
 with two horses attached to them and loaded to their 
 utmost with anxious visitors and pilgrims, natives driving 
 like madmen, and a hard-looking class of people howling, 
 screaming and talking, without knowing what is said, 
 crowding the sidewalks with donkeys and everything else 
 imaginable, and then thinking of it as the most holy city, the 
 hills and streets, in which our beloved Savior lived, walked 
 and died, the memory of which is so dear to every Christian 
 child, it makes an impression that is beyond the power of 
 language to describe. 
 
O when, thou city[of my God, 
 
 Shall I thy courts ascend, 
 Where congregations ne'er break up, 
 
 And Sabbaths never end ? 
 
 When shall these eyes thy heav'n-built walls 
 
 And pearly gates behold ? 
 Thy bulwarks with salvation strong. 
 
 And streets of_shining gold ? 
 
A PLEASANT ACQUAINTANCE. 
 
 199 
 
 I was very fortunate in meeting Mr. John C. Mack, 
 of Bristol, Conn., U. S. A., and to join him as a room-mnto. 
 Mr. Mack is a dear Christian man, and our pleasant visits, 
 and the acquaintance which we formed, shall never, 1 trust, 
 be forgotten. We found a good home in a hotel, with a 
 family in the German colony, which was very satisfactory ; 
 charges, five francs per day, equal to one dollar of United 
 States money. 
 
 The weather was cool and quite rainy, and being weary 
 and worn, I did not expose myself to the wet and cold 
 weather, as the changes are great going from India to Egypt 
 and Palestine. Sunday, March 10th, the weather was cool 
 and wet; Mr. J. C. Mack and myself, for the first time, 
 (Mitorod the Jaffa gate. 
 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Jerusalem and its History. 
 
 visitor's first impression— interest grows— JERUSALEM NOT A 
 
 PLACE OF AMUSEMENT— KING DAVID'S REIGN— CHARACTER 
 
 OF THE CITY — ANCIENT WALLS — MOUNT ZION — 
 
 SOLOMON'S REIGN — THE CITY BEAUTIFIED 
 
 —JERUSALEM DESTROYED AND 
 
 REBUILT. 
 
 ERUSALEM, to most travelers, is a place of 
 overwhelming interest; but at first sight 
 many will be sadly disappointed in this dirty 
 modern town, with its crooked and badly 
 paved lanes. It would seem, at first, as though little were 
 left of the ancient city of Zion and Moriah, the farfamed 
 capital of the Jewish empire. It is only by patiently pene- 
 trating beneath the modern crust of rubbish and rottenness, 
 which shrouds the sacred places from view, that the visitor 
 will at length realize to himself a picture of the Jerusalem 
 of antiquity, and this will be the more vivid in proportion to 
 the amount of previously acquired historical information 
 which he is able to bring to bear upon h^s researches. The 
 longer and the oftener he sojourns in Jerusalem, the greater 
 will be the interest with which its ruins will inspire him, 
 though he will be obliged to confess that the degraded aspect 
 of the modern city, and its material and moral decline, form 
 but a melancholy termination to the stupendous scenes once 
 enacted here. 
 
JERUSALEM.— ITS HISTORY. 201 
 
 The combination of wild superstition with the merest 
 formalism which everywhere forces itself upon our notice, 
 and the fanaticism and jealous exclusiveness of the numerous 
 religious communities of Jerusalem, form the chief modern 
 characteristics of the city, the holy city, once the fountain- 
 head from which the knowledge of the true God was wont to be 
 vouchsafed to mankind, and which has exercised the suprem- 
 est influence on religious thought throughout the world. 
 Jerusalem is therefore not a town for amusement, for every 
 thing in it has a religious tinge, and from a religious point of 
 view the impressions the visitor receives here are anything 
 but pleasant. The native Christians of all sects are by no 
 means equal to their task ; the bitter war which rages 
 amongst them is carried on with very foul weapons, and the 
 contempt with which the orthodox Jews and Mohammedans 
 look down on the Christians is only too well deserved. 
 
 When they conquered the country the Israelites found 
 the Jebusites settled among the mountains of this district, 
 Jebus, afterward the site of Jerusalem, being their capital. 
 From the natural strength of its position the town was be- 
 lieved to be impregnable. We are informed very briefly that 
 this Jebus was at length captured by King David. ^ The in- 
 habitants, trusting to the strength of their city, derided the 
 Israelites; but David took the city and established himself in 
 the " Stronghold of Zion." 
 
 What then was the precise situation of this holy Mt. 
 Zion? In order to answer this question we must first exam- 
 ine the topographical character of the city. The city was 
 surrounded by deep valleys. Towards the east lay the valley 
 of the Kidron, afterwards called the valley of Jehoshaphat, 
 
 1 2 Sam. 5 : 6—10. 
 
202 AKOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 and on the west and south sides, the valley of Hinnom. 
 These two principal valleys enclosed a plateau, the north 
 side of which bore the name of Bezetha, or place of Olives ; 
 and olive groves are still to be found in that locality. 
 
 On the south half of this plateau lay the city of Jerusa- 
 lem, which was divided into diflFerent quarters by natural 
 depressions of the soil. The chief of these natural boundaries 
 was a small valley coming from the north, running at first 
 south by south-east, and then due south, and separating two 
 hills, of which that to the west now rises 105 feet above the 
 precipitous east hill. This valley was called the Tyropoeon 
 (cheese-makers' valley or better, valley of dung). 
 
 On the south terrace of the east hill, where, to the south- 
 cast of the present Haram, lay the Ophel quarters, as well as 
 on the other hill to the west of the Tyropoeon, extended the 
 ancient Jerusalem as far as the brink of the valley. The city- 
 wall crossed the Tyropoeon at its mouth far below. On the 
 south side of the west hill (where there are now no houses) 
 there was as early as David's time that part of the town 
 which Josephus calls the Upper City. North-east of this 
 quarter, opposite the hill of the temple, probably lay the 
 bastion Millo ("Filling up"). 
 
 Such are the undisputed facts. The questions which 
 now arise are: what were the names of these hills, and what 
 was the site of the ancient buildings? 
 
 In the first place, the site of the ancient temple must 
 certainly have been on the east hill. The name Moriah for 
 this hill of the temple occurs exceptionally in Gen. 22:2, and 
 then in 2Chron. 3:1, as a specifically religious appellation. 
 
 There are numerous passages in the Bible which prove 
 that down to a late period the hill of the temple was included. 
 
THE HOLY CITY. 205 
 
 in the more popular name of Zion. This accounts for the 
 frequent mention of the glory of Zion in the poetical books, 
 for it was there that the temple stood. On the other hand, 
 Zion is frequently used as synonymous with the city of 
 David, ^ and is even poetically applied to Jerusalem itself, 
 (Daughters of Zion). 
 
 Solomon began to beautify the city in a magnificent 
 style, and above all, he erected on Mount Zion a beautiful 
 palace and sanctuary. In order, however, to procure a level 
 surface for the foundation of such an edifice, it was necessary 
 to lay massive substructions. The temple of Solomon occu- 
 pied the north part, the site of the upper terrace of the 
 present day, on which the Dome of the ilock now stands. 
 
 The work begun by Solomon was continued by his suc- 
 cessors, who constructed a more spacious precinct around the 
 temple on ground which must have been artificially leveled 
 for the purpose. The royal palace rose immediately.^ 
 
 During his reign, Jerusalem first became the headquar- 
 ters of the Israelites, and it was probably then that this new 
 city in the north sprang up which he surrounded with forti- 
 fications. The glory of Jerusalem as the central point of the 
 united empire was, however, of brief duration and it shortly 
 afterwards became the capital of the southern kingdom of 
 Judah only. 
 
 As early as Rehoboam's reign, the city was compelled to 
 surrender to the Egyptian king Shishak, on which occasion 
 the temple and palace were despoiled of part of their golden 
 ornaments. 
 
 About one hundred years later, under King Jehoram, 
 the temple was again plundered, the victors on this occasion 
 
 1 2 Sam. 5:7; 1 Kings 8:1. '^ Ezek. 43:7, 8. 
 
206 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 bein^ Arabian and Philistine tribes.' Sixty years later, Je- 
 
 hoash, the king of the northern empire, having defeated 
 
 Amaziah, king of Judah, effected a wide breach in the wall 
 
 of Jerusalem and entered the city in triumph.^ Uzziah, the 
 
 son of Amaziah, re-established the prosperity of Jerusalem. 
 
 During this period, however, Jerusalem was visited by a 
 
 great earthquake. 
 
 Again the fortifications were repaired by Hezekiah,^ to 
 
 whom also was due the great merit of providing Jerusalem 
 
 with water. The solid chalky limestone on which the city 
 
 stands contains little water. The only spring at Jerusalem 
 
 was the fountain of Gihon on the east slope of the temple 
 
 hill. 
 
 1 2Chron. 21:17. - 2 Kings 14:13— 14. ^ 2Chron. 32:5. 
 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Jerusalem, from Hezekiah's Reign to the Present Time. 
 
 jews carried into captivity — soloilon — treasures stolen 
 
 from temple and carried to babylon — temple burned — 
 
 jews return — destruction and bloodshed — herod 
 
 captured the city — the city enriched — time 
 
 of christ — was taken by the persians — fell 
 
 to the egyptians — saladin captured 
 
 the city — kharezmians took it by 
 
 storm — under turkish rule. 
 
 EZElilAH, on the whole, reigned prosperously, 
 but the policy of his successors soon involved 
 the city in ruin. In the reign of Jehoiachin, it 
 was compelled to surrender, at discretion, to 
 King Nebuchadnezzar. 
 
 Again the temple and the royal palace were pillaged, 
 and a great number of the citizens, including King Jehoia- 
 chin, the nobles, 7,000 house owners, 1,000 craftsmen and 
 their families, were carried away captive to the East. ' 
 Those who were left, having made a hopeless attempt under 
 Zedekiah to revolt against their conquerors, Jerusalem now 
 had to sustain a long and terrible siege (one year, five months 
 and seven days). Pestilence and famine meanwhile ravaged 
 the city. The Babylonians now carried off all treasures that 
 still remained, the Temple of Solomon was burned to the 
 
 ' 2 Kings 24 : 15. 
 
208 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 around, and Jerusalem reduced to the abject state of 
 humiliation, so beautifully described by the author of the 
 Lamentations, particularly in chapter 2. Jerusalem, how- 
 ever, was permitted to recover, to some extent, when the 
 Jews returned from captivity, but it was not till the time of 
 Nehemiah, the favored cup-bearer of the Persian king, 
 Artaxerxes Longimanus, that the city was actually rebuilt. 
 
 But, alas ! it was in the time of Antiochus Epiphanes 
 that it again became a theatre of bloodshed. The inhabitants 
 were slain, Jerusalem was destroyed, and a stronghold was 
 established in the city by Antiochus for himself. Many 
 struggles had to be undergone before this national restor- 
 ation "was consolidated, and frequently the Jews were com- 
 pelled to capitulate by hunger alone ; and in one struggle 
 no less than 12,000 Jews are said to have perished. 
 
 Thirty-seven years before Christ, Herod, with the aid of 
 the Romans, captured the city against a gallant defense. 
 Under Roman rule Jerusalem became well fortified, and 
 was rebuilt, so that with its numerous palaces and handsome 
 edifices, the sumptuous temple with its colonnades, and the 
 lofty city walls with their bastions, it must have presented a 
 very striking appearance ; and in picturing to ourselves the 
 rebuilt city,' we see numerous villas standing in beautiful 
 gardens, some of which were probably very handsome 
 buildings. 
 
 Such was the character of the city in the time of Christ. 
 We learn from the New Testament that especially on the 
 occasion of festivals the city was crowded with people. At 
 the time of a certain festival it is said the Roman governor 
 caused the counting of the paschal lambs, and found the vast 
 total to be 270,000. From this we may infer that the number 
 
JERUSALEM.— ITS HISTORY. 200 
 
 of partakers was no less than 2,700,000. Although these 
 figures, like many of the other statements of Josephus, are 
 probably much exaggerated, they at least tend to show that 
 the great national festival was attended by vast crowds. 
 
 In 614, A. D. , Jerusalem was taken by the Persians, and 
 the churches destroyed, but it was soon afterward restored, 
 chiefly with the aid of the Egyptians. In 969 Jerusalem fell 
 into possession of the Egyptian Fatimites. Under their 
 rule the Christians were sorely oppressed. Money was 
 extorted from the pilgrims, and savage bands of Ortokides, 
 or Turkish robbers, sometimes penetrated the churches of 
 Jerusalem and maltreated the Christians during worship. In 
 1187 Saladin captured the city, treating the Christians, many 
 of whom had before this fled to the surrounding villages, 
 with great leniency. In 1244 the Kharezmians took the 
 place by storm, and it soon fell under the supremacy of the 
 Eyyubides. Since that period Jerusalem has been a Moslem 
 city. In 1517 it fell into the hands of the Osmans. 
 
 In 1800 Napoleon planned the capture of Jerusalem, but 
 gave up his intention. In 1825 the inhabitants revolted 
 against the pasha on account of the severity of the taxation, 
 and the city was, in consequence, bombarded by the Turks 
 for a time ; but a compromise of the disputes was effected. 
 In 1831 Jerusalem submitted to Mohammed Ali Pasha, of 
 Egypt, without much resistance ; in 1834 a revolt of the 
 Bedouins was quelled ; and in 1840 Jerusalem again came into 
 possession of the Sultan Abdul-Mejid, and is at the present 
 time under Turkish rule. 
 
 14 
 
CHAPTEK XXV. 
 Solomon's Temple. 
 
 CITY WALLS — POOLS — HOUSES" — STREETS — CLIMATE — ITS WATER 
 SUPPLY — POPULATION — MOSQUE OF OMAR OR SOLOMON'S 
 TEMPLE— MOUNT MORIAH— ROCK IN INTERIOR— FROM 
 WHERE CHRIST DROVE THE CHANGERS — ABRAHAM 
 AND MELCHIZEDEK SACRIFICING — WELL OF 
 SOULS — GOLDEN NAILS — BLOWING THE 
 TRUMPET — CALLING TO JUDGMENT — 
 WIRE ROPE ACROSS THE VALLEY- 
 VAULTS— STABLES OF SOLOMON. 
 
 ERUSALEM is enclosed by a wall thirty-six 
 and "a" half feet in height, with thirty-four 
 towers, forming an irregular quadrangle 
 about two and a half miles in circumference. 
 Seen from the Mount of Olives, Jerusalem presents a hand- 
 some appearance. The town possesses a few open spaces; 
 the streets are illpaved and crooked, many of them being 
 blind alleys, and are very dirty, especially after a rain. 
 
 In the walls there are eight gates, but one of them has 
 been walled up: (1) Yafa gate; (2) The New gate, opened in 
 1889; (3) The Damascus gate; (4) Herod's gate; (5) St. 
 Stephen's gate; (6) The Golden gate, which has long since 
 been walled up; (7) Dung gate; (8) The gate of Zion. 
 
 As Jerusalem possesses no springs except the pool of 
 Siloah {Ain Silwan) and Hammam esh-Shifa, or healing 
 
JEEUSALEM.— ITS INHABITANTS. 213 
 
 bath, supposed to have been the pool of Bethesda, the in- 
 habitants obtain their supply of water from cisterns, the 
 roofs of the houses and every available open space beinof 
 made to contribute the rain that falls upon them. Owing to 
 the scarcity of wood the houses are built entirely of stone. 
 The court with cisterns forms the central point of each group 
 of rooms. A genuine Jerusalem dwelling house consists of a 
 number of separate apartments, each with an entrance and a 
 dome shaped roof of its own. Some houses have flat roofs, 
 but under these is always concealed a cupola. The cupolas 
 do not spring from the tops of the walls, but a little within 
 them, so that it is possible to walk round the outside of the 
 cupolas. Pots and troughs for flowers are built into the roof 
 and courts by the architects. In some of the houses there 
 are no glass windows; nor are chimneys by any means univer- 
 sal, the charcoal smoke being in their absence allowed to 
 escape by the doors and windows. The floors are composed 
 of stone or hard cement. 
 
 The climate, on the whole, is healthy. The fresh sea 
 breeze tempers the heat even during the hot months; at night 
 there is frequently a considerable fall of temperature. The 
 cistern water, too, is good and not in the least unhealthy 
 when the cisterns are kept clean. The water in the cisterns 
 certainly gets very low towards autumn and the poorer 
 classes then have recourse to water from the pools. According 
 to the usual estimate, the population numbers about 40,000, 
 according to statistics of 1887 about 43,000. Of these about 
 7,560 are Moslems, 28,000 Jews, 2,000 Latins, 150 United 
 Greeks, 50 United Armenians, 4,000 Orthodox Greeks, 510 
 Armenians, 100 Copts, 75 Ethiopians, 15 Syrians, and 300 
 Protestants. The different nationalities are distinguished by 
 
214 
 
 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 their costun e. The number of Jews has greatly risen of late 
 years in consequence of the persecation in Roumania and 
 Russia. The immigration steadily increases, both of those 
 who desire to be baried in the holy city and of those who 
 intend to subsist on the charity of their European brethren, 
 
 from whom they receive their regular allowance, and for 
 whom they pray at the holy places. 
 
 A VISIT TO Solomon's temple. 
 
 The Haram esh-Sherif (Mosque of Omar) is one of the 
 most profoundl}^ interesting spots in the world. It was 
 about this spot where David erected an altar. ^ It was to this 
 place also that the Lord said to Abraham, "Take now 
 
 12 Sam. 24:25. 
 
JERUSALEM.— SOLOMON'S TEMPLE. 215 
 
 thy son, thine only son Isaac, whom thou lovest, and get 
 thee into the land of Moriah."^ It was here that Abraham 
 prepared the altar and, when the Lord found him true and 
 obsdient, that the angel called unto him out of heaven, and 
 said, "Abraham, Abraham," and he said "Here am I." 
 The angel then said, " Lay not thine hand upon the lad, 
 neither do thou anything unto him; for now I know that thou 
 fearest God, seeing thou hast not withheld thy son, thine 
 only son, from me." O what a thought to know that you 
 stand where God so often manifested Himself on various 
 occasions. 
 
 This is the place where David had determined to have 
 the temple built for the Lord by his son Solomon, the king. 
 For this purpose it was necessary to la}^ substructions on the 
 slope of the hill, especially on the east (valley of Jehosha- 
 phat), south (valley of Hinnom), and west (valley of Tyro- 
 poeon) sides in order to procure a level surface. 
 
 A company of us, six in number, with our dragoman, 
 entered an archway where on both sides were openings 
 like those of many oriental shops. This archway looks very 
 ancient, and the dragoman stated, "This is the place from 
 whence Christ drove the buyers and sellers," saying "It is 
 written, 'My Father's house shall be a house of prayer,' but 
 ye have made it a den of thieves." The large space within 
 the enclosure, covered with buildings, forms a somewhat 
 irregular quadrangle. The west side measures 536 yards, the 
 east side 518 yards, the north side 351 yards, and the south 
 side 309 yards in length; the surface is not entirely level, the 
 north-west corner being about ten feet higher than the 
 north-east and the two south corners. 
 
 ' Gen. 22:2. 
 
216 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 We now proceed to the description of the Holy Rock as 
 it is called. It is fifty-seven feet long, forty-three feet wide, 
 and rises about six and a half feet above the surrounding 
 pavement. According to Jewish tradition, Abraham and 
 Melchizedek made sacrifices here, and it was regarded as the 
 central point of the world. The ark of the covenant is said 
 to have once stood here. The probability is that the great 
 sacrificial altar stood here, and traces of a channel for 
 carrying off the blood have been discovered on the rock. 
 The place is shown where Zacharias was offering and also 
 where he was slain. 
 
 The guide knocks on a round stone plate almost in the 
 middle of the floor ; there is evidently a hollow underneath. 
 The Moslems maintain that beneath this rock is the well of 
 souls, where the souls of the deceased assemble to pray twice 
 weekly. 
 
 A number of noted places are referred to by Moslems. 
 In front of the north entrance there is let into the ground or 
 floor a slab of jasper into which Mohammed is said to have 
 driven nineteen golden nails ; a nail falls out at the end of 
 every epoch, and when all are gone the end of the world will 
 arrive. We were carefully led there by the accompanying 
 Moslem, kneeling down and pointing with his finger to this 
 spot, repeating foreign words and saying to us, " Now all 
 those that pay bakhshish on this stone will then go to 
 heaven and those who will not] pay will not go to heaven ; " 
 also claiming that from this place the great trumpet of God 
 will be blown for all to come to judgment. 
 
 Every step is of great interest to them at that place, and 
 while they are the followers of Mohammed, they honor Christ 
 as a prophet. 
 
((Jritjiii'fi l'ii(,t< 
 INTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE OF OMAK. 
 (Showing the traditional rock upon which Isaac was offered.) 
 
 I look upon the holy mount 
 
 Where Israel'^ father stood 
 Long years ago, at God's command,' 
 
 To offer guiltless blood. 
 On this " Jehovah-Jireh" mount 
 
 In later years arose 
 God's holy temple, Israel's joy 
 
 And strength midst all her woes. 
 And in that temple, on that mount, 
 
 Did Zacharias stand 
 To olfer holy sacrifice 
 
 At the divine command. 
 
THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT. 219 
 
 A little further on we find a stair ascending to the top 
 of the wall, which affords an admirable view of the valley of 
 Jehoshaphat with its tombs immediately below, and of the 
 Mt. of Olives. We find here the stump of a column built 
 in horizontally and protruding over the wall. A small build- 
 ing has been erected over the inner end, for prayer. 
 
 The Moslems say that all men will assemble in the valley 
 of Jehoshaphat when the trumpet blast proclaims the last 
 judgment. From this prostrate column a thin wire rope will 
 then be stretched to the Mt, of Olives opposite. Christ will 
 sit on the wall, and Mohammed on the Mount, as judges. 
 All men must pass over the intervening space on the rope. 
 The righteous, preserved from falling by their angels, will 
 cross with lightning speed, while the wicked will be precipi- 
 tated into the abyss of hell. 
 
 Descending thirty-two steps, we enter a small Moslem 
 oratory, where a horizontal niche, surmounted by a dome 
 borne by four small columns, is pointed out as the "Cradle 
 of Christ," under which name it was also known in mediaeval 
 times. In pre-Islamic times the Basilika Theotokos (of the 
 Mother of God) or Maria Nova was here. This curious 
 tradition seems to have been founded on an old custom of 
 Hebrew women who came hither to await their confinement. 
 According to the legend, this was the dwelling place of the 
 aged Simeon, and the Virgin spent a few days here after the 
 Presentation in the Temple. 
 
 From this point we descend into the spacious substruc- 
 tions, which the Arabs attribute to the agency of demons, 
 but which in their present form are of no great antiquity. 
 They consist of semicircular vaults about twenty-eight feet 
 high, resting on one hundred square piers, chiefly composed 
 
220 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 of ancient drafted stones, and are an imitation of similar 
 older substructions which once occupied the same spot. Tra- 
 dition calls them Solomon's Stables, and there may be some 
 true foundation for the name, for the palace of that monarch 
 was probably somewhere in this neighborhood. 
 
 Many Jews sought refuge in the subterranean vaults dur- 
 ing their struggle against the Romans, and there is other 
 evidence that substructions of this kind existed at an early 
 period in this corner and the stables of the Frank kings and 
 of the Templars were here, and the rings to which they at- 
 tached their horses still exist. The vaults extend ninety-one 
 yards from east to west and sixty- six yards from north 
 to south. There are altogether thirteen vaults of unequal 
 length and breadth. Thus a few of the many items have been 
 given. The arch work, the columns, and space underneath 
 are almost beyond description. The illustration of Solomon's 
 Stables will give the reader some idea of their appearance. 
 
 It is but a few years since it was death for a Christian 
 to enter this great Mosque of Omar ; but now any one can be 
 admitted on payment of a small fee, the feet being covered 
 with large slippers. The general appearance of the temple is 
 fascinating, and a great deal of mosaic work is seen. Fre- 
 quently the dragoman points to certain parts which are 
 claimed to be from the original temple of Solomon. Here is 
 given what was observed, and what traditions say, and truly 
 the words of Christ are confirmed in our minds, where He 
 says, as He went out of the temple, "Seest thou these great 
 buildings? there shall not be left one stone upon another that 
 shall not be thrown down." There are, however, on and 
 around the mountain, traces left of the extent and grandeui: 
 of the buildings which once adorned its crest. 
 
{Original I'hoto.) 
 
 STABLES OF SOLOMON. 
 
CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 Calvary and Tomb of Christ. 
 
 jews" wailing place— chanting— immense stones— GOLGOTHA- 
 GROTTO OF JEREMIAH — THE CROSS CONQUERED THE WORLD 
 — DEAREST SPOT ON EARTH — RENT IN THE ROCK — 
 CONSOLING ANGEL — TURKISH OFFICIALS- 
 DIFFERENT CHAPELS — DECORATION. 
 
 OMING around the outside wall and turning- 
 down a narrow lane leading to the left, we 
 reach the wailing place of the Jews (see illus., 
 p. 175), situated beyond the miserable dwell- 
 ings of the Moghrebins. The celebrated wall which bears 
 this name is fifty-two yards in length and fifty-six feet in 
 height. The lowest nine courses of stone consist of huge 
 blocks, some of which, however, are drafted. Above these 
 are fifteen layers of smaller stones. Some of the blocks, 
 many of which have sufi'ered much from ex-posure, are of 
 vast size, one in the north part of the wall being sixteen feet, 
 and one in the south part thirteen feet in length. It is 
 probable that the Jews, as early as the middle ages, were in 
 the habit of gathering hither to bewail the downfall of 
 Jerusalem. 
 
 This spot should be visited repeatedly, especially on a 
 Friday after 4: o'clock, when a touching scene is presented by 
 the figures leaning against the weather-beaten wall, kissing 
 
224 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 the stones, and weeping. The men, many of them barefoot, 
 often sit here for hours, reading their Hebrew prayer-books. 
 The Spanish Jews, whose appearance and bearing are often 
 refined and independent, present a pleasing contrast to their 
 squalid brethren from Poland. 
 
 On Friday, towards evening, the following lines are 
 chanted : 
 
 1. Leader, For the palace that lies desolate. 
 Response. We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 2. L. For the palace that is destroyed, 
 R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 3. L. For the walls that are overthrown, 
 R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 4. L. For our majesty that is departed, 
 R. Wo sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 5. L. For our great men who lie dead, 
 R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 6. L. For the precious stones that are burned, 
 R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 7. L. For the priests who have stumbled, 
 R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 8. L. For our kings who have despised Him, 
 R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 Another chant is as follows : 
 
 1. Leader. We pray Thee, have mercy on Zion ! 
 Response. Gather the children of Jerusalem. 
 
 2. L. Haste, haste. Redeemer of Zion ! 
 R. Speak to the heart of Jerusalem. 
 
 3. L. May beauty and majesty surround Zion ! 
 R. Ah ! turn Thyself mercifully to Jerusalem. 
 
 4. L. May peace and joy abide with Zion ; 
 
 R. And the branch (of Jesse) spring up at Jeru- 
 salem. 
 
' 'J'V ^ I I ' > V' 
 
 'A 'M^-^-fi 
 
 MO fcwiniiiiii II 
 
 CHURCH Ol' THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 
 
GOLGOTHA. 227 
 
 Leaving the place of wailing, we pass immense blocks of 
 stone, one seven and one-half feet thick and eighteen feet 
 long, now situated ten feet above the ground ; another 
 is twenty-six feet long, and still another twenty-seven and 
 one-half feet long. This is very remarkable, although it is 
 sometimes difficult to distinguish the joints from clefts 
 caused by age. 
 
 THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE, AND GOLGOTHA. 
 
 The Bible says that Golgotha (see illus. , p. 105) lay outside 
 the city. ' "Now when they were going, behold some of the 
 watch came into the city, and showed unto the chief priests 
 all the things that were done." Golgotha was an eminence, 
 or perhaps only a small rocky elevation, called, on account 
 of its peculiar shape, "skull." To the north and south of 
 the place pointed out by tradition the ground drops gradu- 
 ally. The first point of controversy, among many, is whether 
 the genuine Golgotha lay in this neighborhood or not. 
 Several modern explorers look for Golgotha to the north of 
 the city, near the grotto of Jeremiah, As there is much 
 written on this subject, we can only present the arguments 
 advanced by others in support of the authenticity of the sites. 
 
 No one can doubt for a moment that the early disciples 
 and apostles were acquainted with the place of their Master's 
 death and burial ; and many of those who were with Him on 
 His triumphal entry into the city but a short time before His 
 crucifixion, must certainly have known the site of Golgotha. 
 
 There were many in Jerusalem at this time, and a few 
 weeks after His death, at the remarkable event of the out- 
 pouring of the Holy Ghost, there were three thousand 
 
 1 Matt. 28:11. 
 
228 AKOtIND THE GLOBE. 
 
 witnesses, and others daily, added to the church. There 
 never was a time when there was not a Christian community 
 in the city, and can any one suppose that during this period, 
 when the religion of the Cross was conquering the world, 
 and thousands from distant lands were visiting the holy city, 
 the locality of Calvary and the tomb of Jesus could be 
 forgotten ? It is true that during the siege of Titus many of 
 the Christians took flight beyond the Jordan, and others 
 took refuge in the caves and rock tombs along the Kedron ; 
 there were, however, many aged, and sick, and poor, who 
 remained in the city. Eusebius says that not more than half 
 the population left, and most of those who left returned 
 immediately after the siege was over. But can it be supposed 
 that in this brief interval of less than five months, the place 
 before all others dear to them would be lost sight of so easily ? 
 
 There is not a spot on earth so dear to the Christian 
 heart as Mount Calvary, where the Lord was crucified, 
 surrounded by a howling mob. While there were a few of 
 His beloved following Him to behold what was to take place, 
 the others were scattered like sheep without a shepherd. O, 
 the place where the Lamb of God was nailed to the rugged 
 cross, which was raised up and dropped into its socket ! 
 Innocent as He was, yet He was placed between two thieves. 
 The sun lost its light, the heavens darkened, the earth 
 quaked, while He cried out with a loud voice, saying, ' ' My 
 God, my God, why hast Thou forsaken me ? " The Father 
 had not forsaken Him, but it was that the great plan of 
 human redemption might be completed for you and me, my 
 dear reader. 
 
 And Jesus, when He had cried again, gave up the ghost. 
 And behold, the vail of the temple was rent in twain, the 
 

 
 
 ?.:V*. . 
 
 
 
THE CHUECH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 231 
 
 earth quaked, the rocks rent, and the graves were opened 
 Many of those who had slept arose and came out of their 
 graves, ^ and all acknowledged, saying, "Truly this was the 
 Son of God." 
 
 Oh, my readers, that sacred spot (Mount Calvary) should 
 be dear to you all, because there the plan of redemption was 
 settled forever, when He cried, "It is finished ! " All may 
 come to Him and be saved. 
 
 This is the place where He was taken from the cross by 
 Joseph and laid in his own tomb with the greatest respect 
 and honor, as the one that would draw all the world to Him- 
 self ; there were many dear ones from the city, and John, 
 to whom the Lord committed the care of His mother, follow- 
 ing Him. 
 
 By removing a slab, our attention was called to a rent in 
 the rock underneath, which it is claimed was caused by the 
 earthquake at the time of the crucifixion. We were also 
 shown the spot and socket wherein the cross stood, together 
 with a part of the stone that was rolled upon the tomb. 
 
 This is also designated as the place where the women 
 came early in the morning to see the sepulchre. And behold 
 there was a great earthquake, for the angel of the Lord 
 descended from heaven and came and rolled away the stone 
 from the door, and sat on it. And the angel so kindly and 
 affectionately said unto the women, "Fear not ye: for I 
 know that ye seek Jesus, which was crucified." And Mary 
 stood without at the sepulchre, weeping ; and as she wept 
 she stooped down, longing to know where He was. She saw 
 two angels, which said unto her, "Woman, why weepest 
 thou ? " Oh, how often does the angel come to you and me, 
 
 ' Matt. 27. 
 
232 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 in the hour of grief and distress, to comfort and console ! 
 She answered, "Because they have taken away my Lord." 
 
 Oh, what a heart of humility, of meekness and tender- 
 ness, is shown by this dear Christian woman, out of whom 
 the Lord had cast seven devils ! ^ How true the words of 
 the Lord, "To whom much is forgiven, the same loveth 
 much." 
 
 It is an unpleasant fact that Moslem officials, appointed 
 by the Turkish government, sit in the vestibule of the Church 
 of the Holy Sepulchre, built on this site, for the purpose 
 of keeping order, particularly on Easter occasions, among 
 Christians (as they are called). Pilgrims come from all parts 
 of the world, and yet the presence of such a guard is abso- 
 lutely necessary, so completely does jealousy and fanaticism 
 usurp the place of true religion in the minds of many of these 
 visitors to the holy city. 
 
 The church is divided into many different chapels and 
 departments, some of which are: 1, The Church of the 
 Apostles, so-called, with the altar of Melchizedek ; 2, Chapel 
 of the Sacrifice of Isaac ; 3, Chapel of St. James, where 
 stands the tree in which the ram is said to have been 
 entangled ; 4, Chapel of St. Mary of Egypt ; 5, Greek Chapel 
 of St. James ; 6, Chapel of Mary Magdalene ; 7, Chapel of 
 the Forty Martyrs ; 8, Post of the Moslem Officials ; 9, Stone 
 of Anointment ; ^ 10, Place from which the women witnessed 
 the anointment ; 11, Angels' Chapel ; 12, Chapel of the Sep- 
 ulchre ; 13, Chapel of the Copts ; 14, Chapel of the Syrians ; 
 15, Chamber in the Rock ; 16, Passage to the Coptic Monas- 
 tery ; 17, Passage to the Cistern ; 18, Cistern ; 19, Ante- 
 chamber of next chapel ; 20, Chapel of the Apparition ; 21, 
 
 'Mark 16:9. ^john 19:38-40. 
 
CHUECH OF THE HOLY SEPQLCHRE. 
 
 233 
 
 Latin Sacristy ; 22, Catholicon ; 23, Centre of the World ; 
 24, First seat of the Patriarch of Jerusalem; 25, Second seat; 
 26, Aisle of the Church of the Crusaders ; 27, Chapel (Prison 
 of Christ); 28, Chapel of St. Longinus; 29, Chapel of Part- 
 ing of the Raiment ; 30, Chapel of the Derision ; 31, Chapel 
 of the Empress Helena ; 32, Altar of the Penitent Thief ; 33, 
 Altar of the Empress ; 34, Seat of the Empress ; 35, Chapel 
 of the Finding of the Cross ; 36, Chapel of the Raising of the 
 Cross ; 37, Hole of the Cross ; 38, Chapel of the Nailing to 
 the Cross ; 39, Chapel of the Agony ; 40, Abysinian Chapel. 
 All these different departments being decorated with 
 pictures and paintings, lights, lamps and curtains, make a 
 very solemn impression ; and while thousands visit this place 
 and show it the greatest reverence by removing their shoes, 
 and kissing the stones on which they walk, others roam 
 around without showing any respect whatever. While we 
 sincerely deplore the ignorance and fanaticism of these 
 people, we also admire the zeal and honesty of many that 
 come from distant lands, spending much time and money to 
 make a pilgrimage to the holy city at least once in their 
 lifetime. 
 
CHAPTER XXYII. 
 
 Easter in Jerusalem. 
 
 excitikg scenes— easter festival— grand mass— good friday- 
 HOLY FIRE — IMMENSE CROWDS-CHURCH ILLUMINATED — 
 FIGHTING AND ACCIDENTS— ROUGH MANNERED 
 OFFICIALS — WILDEST CONFUSION — 
 TURNING SOMERSAULTS. 
 
 E were permitted to spend about six weeks in 
 and about Jerusalem, which time included 
 Easter. Many painful sights were witnessed 
 that were enacted by the so-called Christians 
 as well as the Mohammedans while holding their great feasts. 
 The worst of all is the scene of the holy fire for a description 
 of which Baedeker is quoted: — 
 
 "During the Festival of Easter, the Church of the 
 Sepulchre is crowded with pilgrims of every nationality, and 
 there are enacted, both in the church and throughout the 
 town, many disorderly scenes which produce a painful im- 
 pression. The ecclesiastical ceremonies are very inferior in 
 interest to those performed at Rome. 
 
 In former times, particularly during the regime of the 
 Crusaders, the Latins used to represent the entry of Christ 
 riding on an ass from Bethphage, but this was afterwards 
 done in the interior of the church only. Palm and olive- 
 branches were scattered about on the occasion, and to this 
 day the Latins send to Gaza for palm branches, which) are 
 
THE HOLY riEE. 235 
 
 consecrated on Palm Sunday and distributed among the peo- 
 ple. On Holy Thursday, the Latins celebrate a grand mass 
 and walk in procession round the chapel of the Sepulchre, 
 after which the 'washing of feet' takes place at the door of the 
 Sepulchre. The Greeks also perform the washing of feet, but 
 their festival does not always fall on the same day as that of 
 the Latins. Good Friday is also celebrated by the Francis- 
 cans with a mystery play, the proceedings terminating with 
 the nailing of a figure to a cross, and the Greeks still have a 
 similar practice. 
 
 One of the most disgraceful spectacles is the so-called 
 miracle of the Holy Fire, in which the Latins participated 
 down to the sixteenth century, but which has since been man- 
 aged by the Greeks alone. On this occasion the church is 
 always crowded with spectators. Strangers are admitted to 
 the galleries, which belong to the Latins. The Greeks declare 
 the miracle to date from the apostolic age, and it is mentioned 
 by the monk Bernhard as early as the ninth century. Khalif 
 Hakim was told that the priest used to besmear the wire by 
 which the lamp was suspended over the sepulchre with resin- 
 ous oil, and to set it on fire from the roof. Large sums are 
 paid to the priests by those who are allowed to be the first to 
 light their tapers at the 'sacred flame sent from heaven. The 
 wild and noisy scene begins on Good Friday. The crowd 
 passes the night in the church in order to secure places, some 
 of them attaching themselves by cords to the sepulchre, 
 while others run round it in anything but a reverential 
 manner. 
 
 On Easter Eve, about 2 p. m., a procession of the superior 
 clergy moves round the Sepulchre, all lamps having been 
 carefully extinguished in view of the crowd. Some members 
 
236 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 of the higher orders of the priesthood enter the chapel of the 
 Sepulchre, while the priests pray and the people are in the 
 utmost suspense. At length, the fire which has come down 
 from heaven (?) is pushed through a window of the Sepul- 
 chre, and there now follows an indescribable tumult, every 
 one endeavoring to be the first to get his taper lighted. In 
 a few seconds, the whole church is illuminated. This, how- 
 ever, never happens without fighting, and accidents generally 
 occur owing to the crush. The spectators do not appear to 
 take warning from the terrible catastrophe of 1834:. On that 
 occasion, there were upwards of 6,000 persons in the church, 
 when a riot suddenly broke out. The Turkish guards, think- 
 ing they were attacked, used their weapons against the pil- 
 grims, and in the scuffle that followed about 300 pilgrims 
 were suffocated or trampled to death. — Late on Easter Eve, 
 a solemn service is performed ; the pilgrims with torches 
 shout Hallelujah, while the priests move round the Sepulchre 
 singing hymns." 
 
 During these exciting ceremonies the guards and soldiers 
 are on duty. When the pilgrims make a sudden rush in 
 their excitement, no respect whatever is shown by the guards, 
 who, having whips with long lashes, strike the crowd over 
 the heads. One aged lady was seen to weep like a child be- 
 cause of the severe treatment she had received in this way. 
 
 Arrangements must be made with some of the guides or 
 priests for admission, or the probability is that nothing can 
 be seen or heard. We occupied a position in the gallery, 
 and all the available space was occupied by a densely packed 
 crowd. 
 
 During the time previous to the coming of the holy fire 
 the wildest confusion prevailed ; there was singing, shouting, 
 
(Original Photo.) 
 INTERIOR OF THE COENACULUM, ENTERING THE UPPER ROOM, 
 
 That doleful night before His death, 
 
 The Lamb, for sinners slain, 
 Did, almost with His latest breath, 
 
 That solemn feast ordain. 
 O tune our tongues, and set in frame 
 
 Each heart that pants for Thee, 
 To sing, "Hosanna to the Lamb, 
 
 The Lamb that died for me." 
 
 —J. Hart. 
 
HOLY FIRE CEREMONIES. 239 
 
 and yelling beyond description. The people stood very 
 close together. During the most intense excitement six 
 men climbed upon the shoulders of others and formed a 
 circle by putting their arms around each other's necks ; soon 
 two others mounted the shoulders of the six ; from this posi- 
 tion they turned somersaults upon the heads of the crowd 
 below. The people in return threw and pushed them pro- 
 miscuously about upon the heads of others, all of them yell- 
 ing, shouting and singing: Ha! O! Ho! Ho! Ho! Ha! O! Ho! 
 Ho! Ho! 
 
 The noise and confusion as well as the danger was most 
 alarming to those who had never before witnessed these 
 scenes. The crowd was apparently completely exhausted, and 
 the air was foul and heated. It would seem to the intelli- 
 gent mind that such scenes and doings do not belong to the 
 worship of the Most High God. 
 
CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 Missions, and Jewish Passover. 
 
 missions— german and english services— jewish passover- 
 two million souls— passover services in every house- 
 messiah comes — wine and unleavened bread — 
 greek foot-washing— latin foot-washing— st. 
 stephens' gate— pool of bethesda— via 
 dolorosa — ecce homo arch — house 
 of dives — bathing the 
 stones with tears. 
 
 URING our stay in the holy city several mis- 
 sions were attended, which are indeed worthy 
 of encouragement and support. The one called 
 ^ Jerusalem and Hebron Mission is under the 
 charge of Mr. and Mrs. Murry, Europeans. Mr. Murry is 
 a dear Christian brother, and has his work at heart. He is 
 ably supplemented by his wife, who, although blind— not 
 able to see with her natural eyes— goes from place to place 
 without much difficulty, and earnestly pleads for all to come 
 to Christ. We spent some time with them in their home 
 and mission. 
 
 We also attended a mission at Jerusalem, conducted by 
 D. C. Joseph, who labors principally among the Jews. Mr. 
 Joseph, being a converted Jew himself, takes great delight 
 in laboring among his own people. It being our first visit 
 here, we were requested to preach to the Jews, to which we 
 

 POOL OF SILOAM. 
 
THE JEWISH PASSOYEE. 243 
 
 responded, preaching twice — once in the English and once in 
 the German language, as they understood the German rather 
 better than the English. The Jews, in their simple way of 
 being open-hearted, stepped up to me and said, '''' Danke 
 ineri fir euren guten rath. Danke fir den guten rath.'''' May 
 the Lord bless these dear young Jewish people in Jerusalem, 
 is my prayer. 
 
 PASSOVER. 
 
 The time had come for the Jewish passover,^ it being 
 the 8th day of April, and the day after Christ made His 
 triumphal entry into Jerusalem with 2,000,000 souls, accord- 
 ing to Josephus. 
 
 This is a time of great importance in Jerusalem, and, on 
 an invitation from a Jewish family, with others from the 
 mission, one of whom was Mr. R. Poweck, we attended these 
 services. Going down through the Jewish quarters we heard 
 a peculiar noise, and on inquiry, found that in every house 
 services were being held according to the instructions in the 
 Bible. 
 
 They have books in the Hebrew language, out of which 
 they read. The father of the family which had invited us 
 to be present at their services could speak the English 
 language quite well, and translated for us the most important 
 parts, stating that the book gave the history of the great 
 delivery of Israel from bondage, besides containing some 
 prayers. 
 
 A table was set in the middle of the room, with three 
 wine glasses thereon ; these were filled, and one of them 
 removed to the farther side of the table, with the statement 
 that it belonged to Elias, who would come before the Messiah 
 
 1 Exodus 12:18. 
 
244 ABOUND TfiE GLOBE. 
 
 came. They also have uuieavened bread — nothing but flour 
 and water, with bitter herbs, and boiled eggs. Then reading 
 in their books of God's dealings with them, and of His com- 
 mand to them to keep this Passover, they drink of the wine 
 in the two glasses. Thus they read four times, and continue 
 to drink wine. They had no lamb at this service, but meat 
 to represent the lamb, and also the head of a fowl, to show 
 that a sacrifice had been made. They then ate boiled vegeta- 
 bles, fish and soup, doing away with knives and forks, simply 
 using their fingers. There was no prayer offered, and all 
 seemed to be indifferent and uninterested. Previous to this 
 feast their houses are cleansed, and all the clothing and 
 dishes are either new or thoroughly cleansed. 
 
 There was something sad connected with this service, 
 knowing that the Jews were the appointed people of God, 
 but were left and forsaken, and thus they lament their sad 
 condition. A Jew told me that they were forsaken by God, 
 and that they never see a really peaceful day. I told him 
 that was not the case, that God had done all ; they left God 
 and rejected His Son Jesus Christ, and they, with all others, 
 must repent and come back to God. But they believe that 
 God will yet send the Messiah and restore Jerusalem, and 
 gather them into their own land. 
 
 GREEK FEET-WASHING. 
 
 April 11. — During the Easter festivals feet-washing is 
 observed by the Greeks, and also by the Latins. This was a 
 very interesting service to us. In front of the Church of the 
 Holy Sepulchre there is a yard in which a platform was 
 erected, on which sat the patriarch and the twelve chosen 
 ones, to represent the twelve disciples, one of the twelve to 
 represent Peter and one to represent Judas. The one who 
 
[Oi-iginal Photo.) 
 GREEK CEREMONY OF FEET WASHING. 
 
FEET-WASHING. 247 
 
 takes the part of Judas usually betrays himself by his looks. 
 After reading the Scripture lesson, the Greek partriarh, 
 representing Christ, went a short distance with three of his 
 pretended disciples, and knelt down, as though in prayer, 
 under an olive tree, planted there for the occasion. After a 
 few minutes he returned to the stage, and taking off his 
 garment washed and afterward kissed the feet of those on 
 the stage with him. The one representing Peter at first 
 hesitated and then refused to submit to such an act on the 
 part of his lord, but finally was persuaded to yield. 
 
 The vessel which was used in this ceremony was rich in 
 its appearance; and the water, after being used, was put into 
 small bottles that were handed in, and given out by those 
 on the platform to their friends, for which favor they un- 
 doubtedly were well paid, as there was quite a struggle 
 among those who wished to obtain some of it. The patri- 
 arch, with a bunch of hyssop, sprinkled the vast assemblage 
 with the water that remained. 
 
 After the feet had been washed, the patriarch put on his 
 robe and sat down and talked to those whose feet he had 
 washed, as the Scripture teaches that Christ did. 
 
 In the afternoon the Latins held their feet-washing in 
 the interior of the church. This seems to be a very popular 
 service amongst these ancient Christians, but in these days 
 of progression there are many Peters that hesitate, and even 
 some that ridicule this ceremony; but Jesus says, "1 have 
 given you an example, and as I have done, so ye also ought 
 to wash one another's feet." 
 
 The spirit of humility that Mary possessed did not need 
 any urging as she sat at His feet washing them with the 
 tears that fell from her eyes, and wiping them with the hair 
 
248 
 
 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 of her tiead. O, what a lesson of humility and an example 
 for all Christians to imitate in the fear of the Lord! Jesus 
 says, "If ye know these things, happy are ye if ye do 
 them." 
 
 FROM THE 
 PRISON TO 
 CALVARY. 
 
 Saint Ste- 
 phen's gate is 
 no called from 
 the fact that 
 it was near 
 here that 
 Stephen was 
 stoned to 
 death. On 
 the outside 
 of the gate, 
 over the en- 
 trance, are 
 two lions 
 hewn in stone 
 in half-relief. 
 Within the 
 gate a door- 
 way immedi- 
 ately to the 
 right leads to 
 the church of 
 
 St. Anne, descending to a crypt, which is almost entirely 
 hewn in the rock and consists of two parts, the second of 
 
 Must Jesus bear the cross alone, 
 And'all the world go free '^ 
 
 No! (there is a cross for every one, 
 And there is a cross for me. 
 
FiiOM THE PRISON TO CALVARY. 249 
 
 which resembles a cistern. This was formerly a sanctuary 
 with altars, and is said by tradition to have been the dwelling 
 of St. Anne, and the birthplace of the Virgin. 
 
 To the north-west of the church is the pool of Bethesda. 
 In this pool there was virtue to heal when the water was 
 stirred by the angel; and Jesus saw a man there which had 
 an infirmity thirty and eight years. And He said unto him, 
 for He knew that he had been in that condition for a long 
 time, "Wilt thou be made whole?" Jesus then saith unto 
 him, "Rise, take up thy bed and walk,"' and immediately 
 the man was healed. 
 
 Passing the Chapel of the Scourging, and going a few 
 steps further we are in front of the barracks, and here begins 
 the Via Dolorosa, or the Street of Pain, the route by which 
 Christ is said to have borne His cross to Golgotha. The 
 present barracks occupying the site of the ancient castle of 
 Antonia, are said to stand on the ground once occupied by 
 the Pretorium, the residence of Pilate. 
 
 The Street of Pain, or the road traveled by Christ 
 bearing the cross, is divided into fourteen different stations. 
 The first is the chapel in the Turkish barracks already 
 mentioned; second, where the cross was laid upon Christ, 
 just below the steps ascending to the barracks. We next 
 observe a large, handsome building on the right. This is 
 the institution of the Sisters of Zion, and here an arch, called 
 the Ecce Homo arcb, or arch of Pilate, crosses the street, 
 marking the spot where the Roman governor is said to have 
 uttered the words: "Behold the man."^ 
 
 Passing on we come near a broken column, forming the 
 third station, near which Christ is said to have sunk under 
 Mohn 5:;i-y. -John 19:5. 
 
250 AROQND THE GLOBE. 
 
 the weight of the cross. Farther on we come to the tradi- 
 tional house of the poor man Lazarus, ^ beyond which, op- 
 posite this lane, is the fourth station, where Christ is said to 
 have met His mother. Farther on we come to the " House 
 of Dives," the rich man. The house is built of stone of 
 various colors and possesses a small balcony. Here is the 
 fifth station, where Simon of Cyrene took the cross from 
 Christ. A stone built into the next house to the left has a 
 depression in it said to have been caused by the hand of Christ. 
 About one hundred steps farther on we come to the sixth 
 station. To the left is the house and tomb of St. Veronica, 
 who is said to have wiped the sweat from the Savior's brow 
 at this spot, whereupon His image remained imprinted on 
 her handkerchief. 
 
 Before passing through the vaulting or arch work, we see 
 to the left a house against which Christ is said to have leaned, 
 or near which He fell the second time, the seventh station. 
 The eighth station is where Christ is said to have addressed 
 the women who accompanied Him ; the ninth is said to be 
 where Christ sank again under the weight of the cross ; 
 the tenth is where Christ was disrobed ; the eleventh, where 
 He was nailed to the cross ; the twelfth, that of the raising 
 of the cross ; the thirteenth, where He was taken down from 
 the cross ; the fourteenth, the Holy Sepulchre. 
 
 What a record this is of the journey from prison to 
 Calvary, Loaded with the sins of the world. Whatever our 
 views and feelings may be in regard to these different places 
 designated by the Greeks and Latins, we cannot altogether 
 disregard them, drenched as they have been with the tears of 
 multitudes for generations. Many, both rich and poor, bathe 
 
 1 Luke 16:20. 
 
VIA DOLOROSA. 
 
 251 
 
 these hallowed stones with their tears, and kiss them as they 
 pass along, some on their hands and knees, thus symbolizing 
 the humility, sufferings, and obstacles met by their blessed 
 Master. Others go in groups accompanied by a priest, and 
 at each station, on their knees, a short prayer is offered up. 
 So while we are here, in this Christian land, let us not forget 
 that it becomes us as Christians to follow the Master through 
 the street of pain in our minds and hearts and become more 
 obedient and subject to His divine will. 
 
CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 Steeets and Shops, 
 streets— lanes— grain markets— bazaars— jewish quarters- 
 shops— castle of david— jaffa gate— valley of hinnom — 
 burial grounds— gihon— official buildings— hospit- 
 ALS— ZION'S GATE — COENACULUM — TOMBS OF KINGS, 
 DAVID AND SOLOMON— OUTPOURING OF THE HOLY 
 GHOST — WASHING OF THE APOSTLES'FEET — 
 LAST SUPPER — HOUSE OF CAIAPHAS. 
 
 } HE three principal streets of Jerasaleni are 
 '■^ called Christian street, David street, and 
 
 Damascus street. On Christian street the 
 shops arc somewhat more in European style 
 than on the other streets. David street, to the left, forms the 
 corn market, as we see by the larire heaps of grain and bas- 
 kets of seed in every direction. Procecdino; farther on will 
 bring us to the Old Bazaar, consisting of three covered streets 
 running north and south and intci-sected by several trans- 
 verse lanes. The bazaars occupy the center of the town, but 
 are very inferior, as Jerusalem possesses neither manufac- 
 tories nor wholesale houses worthy of mention. The east 
 bazaar street which leads towards the south to the Jewish 
 quarters is a dirty street with brokers' stalls, shops for the 
 sale of tinware manufactured by the Jews, and many Jewish 
 shops where work is done in olive wood, all kinds of curious 
 things being made to sell to the pilgrims in memory of Jeru- 
 salem and Mount Olivet ; and indeed these manufacturers 
 
SCENES IN JERUSALEM. 253 
 
 are very anxious to sell their goods. Further on we reach 
 the castle of David, tradition gives it that this monarch once 
 had his palace here. 
 
 We are now just inside of the Jaffa gate, which is the 
 main entrance into the city, and consequently always 
 crowded, some coming and others going, elbowing their 
 way through the crowd, while the mules and carriages hold 
 the way. The space outside of the gate is generally enlivened 
 by processions of arriving and departing pilgrims. The 
 muleteers and horse owners, Arab saddlers and ferriers are 
 generally posted outside the Jaffa gate. 
 
 On Fridays and Sundays the scene is especially lively, 
 the Jaffa road being the favorite promenade of the natives. 
 Many European shops have been built along each side of the 
 road. A second road which turns to our left after leaving 
 the Jaffa gate, will bring us to the Mamilla pool lying in 
 the middle of a Moslem burial ground, which is situated near 
 the end of the valley of Hinnom. 
 
 The pool is ninety-seven yards long and sixty-four yards 
 wide, and is supposed by some to be the upper Gihon. It 
 is partly hewn in the rock, but the sides are also lined with a 
 wall. In the winter it is filled with rain water, but it is 
 empty in the summer and autumn. 
 
 The Post Office, Custom House, Telegraph Offices, 
 Hotels, Consulates, Hospitals, etc., are the principal sights 
 in this part of the city. There are also mission schools and 
 churches of various kinds. The Russian Palestine Society 
 has erected immense buildings here consisting of an insane 
 asylum, hospitals, mission-house and different departments 
 for the accommodation of pilgrims. 
 
254 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Coming around the so-called Suburb of Zion we see the 
 English and German Protestant burial grounds and Bishop 
 Gobat's English school, where Arab orphans and other chil- 
 dren are educated. Leaving there we come to the Coenacu- 
 lum called by the Moslems Neby Daud (prophet David). 
 Zion's Gate is on the north side. It formerly belonged to the 
 Christians, but is now in possession of the Moslems. 
 
 The Chamber of the Last Supper, or Coenaculum, (see 
 illus., p. 237) is shown here, and by paying a fee, you will be 
 conducted by a Moslem, with a pack of howling boys follow- 
 ing which makes it very unpleasant for one, to a room on the 
 first floor, divided into two parts by two columns in the middle; 
 it was formerly a part of a Christian church. Half pillars with 
 quaint capitals are built into the walls. The ceiling consists 
 of pointed vaulting of the fourteenth century. 
 
 Three windows look into the court, and under the center 
 one is a niche for prayer. In the south-west corner of the 
 room a staircase descends to a lower room, in the middle of 
 which is shown the place where the table of the Lord is said 
 to have stood. A stone in the north wall marks the Lord's 
 seat. The visitor is led into another room where he sees a 
 long, covered, modern coffin, styled the Sarcophagus of 
 David, and said to be a copy of the genuine coffin of David, 
 which, it is alleged, still exists in subterranean vaults below 
 this spot. 
 
 The church on Zion is mentioned as early as the fourth 
 century before the erection of the church of the Sepulchre. 
 In the time of Helena a " Church of the Apostles" stood on 
 the supposed scene of the Descent of the Holy Ghost, which 
 was probably this spot. The " Column of scourging" was 
 also supposed to be here. It was not until the seventh cen- 
 
CHUKCH or ZION. 
 
 255 
 
 tury that tradition combined the scene of the Last Supper 
 with that of the Descent of the Holy Ghost. The scene of 
 the Virgin's death was also at a later period transferred 
 hither. In the time of the Franks, the church was called the 
 " Church of Zion," or " Church of St. Mary." 
 
 The church of the Crusaders consisted of two stories. 
 The lower had three apses, an altar on the spot where ^Mary 
 
 THE LAST SUPPER. 
 
 died, and another on the spot where Jesus appeared " in 
 Galilee." The washing of the Apostles' feet was also said to 
 have taken place here, while the upper story was considered 
 the scene of the Last Supper. Connected with the church 
 of Zion there was an Augustinian abbey. In 1333 the Fran- 
 ciscans established themselves here, and from them the build- 
 ing received its present form. Attached to the monaster}^ 
 was a large hospital, erected in 1354 by a Florentine lady, 
 
256 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 and committed to the care of the brethren. To this day the 
 superior of the Franciscans is called the ' ' Guardian of Mount 
 Zion." 
 
 For centuries the Moslems did their utmost to gain 
 possession of these buildings, and as early as 1479 they for- 
 bade pilgrims to visit the scene of the Descent of the Holy 
 Ghost, as they themselves revered the tombs of David and 
 Solomon on the same spot. In 1547 they at length succeeded 
 in depriving the Franciscans of all their possessions, and for 
 the next three centuries Christians had great difficulty in 
 obtaining access to the place. The "Tomb of David " formed 
 one of the holy places in the church of Zion so far back as 
 the Crusaders' period, and it is possible that ancient tombs 
 still exist beneath the building ; what is now shown, however, 
 is hardly worth visiting. 
 
 As David and his descendants were buried* in "The city 
 of David," ^ the expression was once thought to mean Beth- 
 lehem, and their tombs were accordingly shown near that 
 town from the third to the sixth century. The evangelists, 
 however, who were doubtless aware of the site of David's 
 tomb, appear to place it in Jerusalem,^ where by this time 
 Hyrcanus and Herod had robbed the tombs of all their pre- 
 cious contents. According to Nehemiah 3:16 and Ezekiel 
 43:7, we are justified in seeking for the tombs of the kings 
 on the Temple mount, above the pool of Siloah. 
 
 The Scriptures are very explicit in their account of David 
 coming up from Hebron and taking the strong Castle of 
 Zion, and building the New City of David round about 
 the old fortress of the Jebusites. Zion henceforth became 
 his royal residence, and when Israel's great king closed his 
 
 1 1 Kings 2:10, etc. ^ ^ptg 2:29. 
 
It 
 
{Original J-'/ioto. 
 MOUNT zrON AND TOMB OF DAVID AND SOLOMON. 
 
 Behold the Mountain of the Lord, 
 
 In latter days, shall rise 
 Above the mountains and the hills, 
 
 And draw the wondering eyes. 
 The beam that shines on Zion's hill, 
 
 Shall lighten every land; 
 The King who reigns in Zion"s towers, 
 
 Shall all the world command. 
 
THE CITY OT DAVID. 259 
 
 eventful reign of forty years, it is written, he was buried in 
 the City of David, and so it is said of Solomon his son, and 
 of twelve of their successors to the throne, that they were all 
 buried in the City of David on Mount Zion which is Jeru- 
 salem. 
 
 Approaching the town the edifice forming the corner is 
 the Armenian monastery of Mount Zion or the House of 
 Caiaphas, where tradition states that Christ was imprisoned; 
 a stone is also shown with which the Holy Sepulchre is said 
 to have been closed, and which pilgrims kiss. The spot 
 where Peter denied Christ and the court where the cock 
 crew ^ are here shown. 
 
 1 Luke 22:61. 
 
CHAPTEE XXX. 
 A Walk to Gethsemane. 
 
 VALLEY OF KIDRON — BEGGARS — LEPERS— HOSPITAL — LIST OF 
 
 LEPERS — STEPHEN STONED — VIRGIN'S TOMB — CAVERN OF 
 
 AGONY — GETHSEMANE — SORROWFUL EVENT — 
 
 AFFECTING SCENES IN THE GARDEN — 
 
 MOUNT OF OLIVES— TREES 
 
 AND SHRUBS. 
 
 N company with others we left St. Stephen's 
 o;ate for a Sunday afternoon walk. Outside 
 the gate we saw many graves on both sides of 
 the road as we descended the mount to the 
 valley of the Kidron. To the right of the gate is a pond, 
 thirty-one yards long, twenty- five yards ■ wide and thirteen 
 feet deep. The pond is sometimes called Hezekiah's Pool, a 
 name for which there is no authority. 
 
 Going down the hill until we strike the Bethany and 
 Jericho road, and turning to our right, many beggars and 
 lepers are seen, making an awful sight to look upon. They 
 have their faces disfigured and their hands and fingers oflf ; 
 some have their toes and feet off, while many have their 
 voices so affected by the terrible disease that it is almost im- 
 possible for them to make a loud noise as they call ' ' Bakh- 
 shish, lepers, lepers," and follow you, showing their hands 
 and begging for sympathy and for alms. 
 
liEPEOSY. 263 
 
 This state of affairs should not be, because there is a hos- 
 pital for lepers, not far from the German colony, very pleas- 
 antly located, which gives them all aid and care ; but as they 
 must be kept clean while here and abide by the rules, they 
 prefer to sit by the wayside begging. The foreman at the 
 hospital said to me that visitors ought not to support or 
 encourage them in their way because that would tend to keep 
 them out of the hospital, as there are no laws to compel them 
 to go there. The institution is maintained by the brethren 
 of Herrnhut. We were very kindly shown through the hos- 
 pital, took a sad look at the patients, and heard the nature of 
 the disease explained. 
 
 The disease is not at all infectious, but the seclusion of 
 the patients is necessary to prevent them from marrying, thus 
 extending and perpetuating this dread disease. 
 
 Hideousl}'^ repulsive leprous beggars are still met on the 
 Yafa road, as many of them, particularly the Jews, have a 
 great repungnance to being lodged in the hospital ; but it is 
 hoped that most of them will in time be thus secluded, as 
 there is no other effectual mode of eradicating this generally 
 incurable disease. The malady being hereditary, the children 
 of leprous persons are almost always attacked with it in later 
 life. Leprosy was a disease of somewhat frequent occurrence 
 among the Israelites. There are now forty to fifty lepers in 
 Jerusalem. The Biblical regulations regarding leprosy are 
 of a very rigorous character.^ 
 
 Leprosy is the consequence of a kind of decomposition 
 of the blood. Several months before the outbreak of the 
 disease, the patient feels languid and suffers from cold chills, 
 shivering in the limbs, and attacks of fever. Reddish spots, 
 
 1 Levit. 13:14. 
 
264 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 then make their appearance on the skin, and under them rise 
 dark red lumps which are more or less movable. In the face 
 particularly these lumps unite into orroups resembling 
 bunches of grapes. The mouth and lips swell, the eyes run, 
 and the patient is frequently tormented by excessive itching 
 over the whole body. The mucous membrane begins to be 
 destroyed, and the nodules form internally also. The organs 
 of speaking, seeing, and hearing become affected. At length 
 the swellings burst, turn into dreadful, festering sores, and 
 heal up again, only to break out at a different place. The 
 fingers become bent, and some of the limbs begin to rot 
 away. 
 
 This kind of leprosy, with its accompanying swellings, 
 differs from the smooth leprosy, which produces painful, 
 flat, inflamed patches on the skin, followed by sores. Other 
 maladies are generally superinduced by leprosy, but the 
 patient sometimes drags on his melancholy existence for 
 twenty years or more. The patients in this hospital present 
 a spectacle of human misery in one of its most frightful 
 phases, and the visitor will not fail to sympathize with the 
 benevolent efforts that are being made to alleviate their suf- 
 fering to the utmost, and to prevent the farther spread of 
 the scourge. 
 
 A list of names, ages, and dates of arrival will here be 
 given, as received at the hospital on the 21st of March 1895. 
 
 Men. 
 1 Christians. 
 
 
 
 Age. 
 
 Admitted. 
 
 1. 
 
 Chalil, Greek Catholic, 
 
 41 years, 
 
 April 1874 
 
 2. 
 
 Ode, Evangelical, - - 
 
 28 years, 
 
 - December 1889 
 
 3. 
 
 Jakub, Greek Catholic, 
 
 33 years, - 
 
 - - March 1891 
 
IKMATES OF HOSPITAL. 
 
 Age. 
 
 4. Gabriel, Roman Catholic, 18 years, - 
 
 5. Dieb, Evangelical, - - 35 years, - 
 
 2 Mohammedans. 
 
 Age. 
 
 6. Mohammed I. - - - 38 years, - 
 
 7. Said, ------- 25 years, - 
 
 8. Salem, ----- 51 years, - 
 
 9. Suleiman, ----- 20 years, - 
 
 10. Ismain, ----- 25 years, - 
 
 11. Mohammed II., - - - 33 years, - 
 
 12. Mahmud, ----- 24 years, - 
 
 13. Achmed, ----- 50 years, - 
 
 14. Hassan, ------ 30 years, 
 
 15. Abdul-Rhamin, - - - 45 years, - 
 
 16. Mohammed III., - - - 55 years, - 
 
 Women. 
 1. Christians. 
 
 Age. 
 
 1. Smikna, Evangelical, 26 years, 
 
 2. Name, Greek Catholic, 42 years, - 
 
 3. Haluwe, Greek Catholic, 40 years, 
 
 4. Habsa, Greek Catholic, 40 years, - 
 
 2. Mohammedans. 
 
 Age. 
 
 5. Fatme 1. , - - - 25 years, 
 
 6. Arsise - - - 46 years, - 
 
 7. Halime, - - - 46 years, 
 
 8. Salha, - - - 25 years, - 
 
 9. Fatme II., - - - 25 years, 
 
 10. Nithme, - - - 30 years, - 
 
 11. Sabba, - - - - 35 years, 
 
 12. Fadige, - - - 25 years, - 
 
 265 
 
 Admitted. 
 
 - - May 1891 
 
 - - May 1893 
 
 Admitted. 
 
 - - June 1890 
 ■ - May 1891 
 
 - - May 1891 
 September 1891 
 
 - - April 1893 
 - - April 1893 
 
 - - May 1893 
 
 - June 1893 
 
 - - July 1893 
 October 1893 
 
 November 1893 
 
 Admitted. 
 
 June 1875 
 January 1887 
 
 - March 1890 
 March 1893 
 
 Admitted. 
 
 November 1885 
 
 - April 1892 
 
 June 1892 
 
 October 1892 
 
 - March 1893 
 
 - June 1893 
 July 1893 
 
 - July 1893 
 
266 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Just before turning to cross the Kidron, there is a rocky 
 place where tradition locates the stoning to death of St. 
 Stephen. O, what a man, being dead yet speaketh! And they 
 stoned Stephen while he called upon God, saying, ''Lord 
 Jesus, receive my spirit." And he kneeled down and cried 
 with a loud voice, "Lord, lay not this sin to their charge," 
 and when he had said this, he fell asleep. 
 
 We now crossed the Kidron by a little bridge, but there 
 was no water, the bed being perfectly dry. It is claimed that 
 in wet weather there was water flowing. Tradition claims 
 that there is an under current of water, while the rubbish of 
 centuries has so closed up the valley that the water course is 
 changed; and it looks quite reasonable, as further down the 
 valley water is seen. 
 
 To the left of the road, beyond the bridge, is the chapel 
 of the Tomb of the Virgin, where, according to the legend, 
 she was interred by the apostles, and where she lay until her 
 assumption. A flight of steps descends to the space in front 
 of the church. The only part of the church above ground is 
 a porch. In this church are the tombs of Joachim and Anna 
 the parents of the Virgin ; also the tomb of Joseph, and the 
 tomb of the Virgin Mary the mother of Jesus. On our re- 
 turn, to the left, is a passage that leads to the so-called 
 " Cavern of the Agony." 
 
 A few rods from the Tomb of the Virgin, on the opposite 
 side of the road leading to the Mt. of Olives, is situated the 
 Garden of "Gethsemane." The name signifies "oil-press." In 
 1847 a wall was erected around the garden (see illus. p. 23) by 
 the Franciscans, to whom it now belongs. The entrance is on 
 the side next to the Mt. of Olives. A rock immediately to 
 the east of the door marks the spot where Peter, James and 
 
EOCK or THE APOSTLES. 
 
 267 
 
 John slept/ The rock, which is called the " Rock of the 
 Apostles," (see illus. p. 127), covers a large space. Some 
 four or five rods from this rock is the spot, outside of the 
 garden wall, where tradition says Judas' betrayal of Jesus 
 
 TOMB OF THE VIRGIN. 
 
 {Original Photo.) 
 
 with a kiss took place. On the inside of the walls are pic- 
 tures of the fourteen stations, as given before. There is a 
 neat fence around the the garden inside the outer wall and 
 about six feet from it; between this and the outer wall vis- 
 
 1 Mark 14:32. 
 
268 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 itors are allowed to pass while looking at objects of interest 
 in the garden. Inside of the garden are eight venerable 
 olive trees, with trunks bursting open from age, some of 
 them walled up with stone. The trees are said to date from 
 the time of Christ. 
 
 The monk or priest who acts as guide presents the visitor 
 with a boquet of roses, pinks and other flowers as a memento 
 or in memory of the place, and expects a small sum of money 
 for the maintenance of the garden. The olives yielded by 
 the trees of the garden are sold at a high price, and rosaries 
 are made from the olive stones. 
 
 All these places seem to be in harmony with the Script- 
 ures. It is here that Jesus came and prayed when loaded 
 down with sorrow, for he said, "My soul is exceeding 
 sorrowful, even unto death." "Tarry ye here and watch 
 with me.'" How the Lord Jesus longed for some one to be 
 with Him in His sorrow! And is it not true that man, when 
 in the deepest sorrow and distress, longs for some one to be 
 with him; but those called for that purpose, fell asleep, 
 about a stone's cast away^ from where their blessed Savior 
 fell on His face and prayed, saying, " O my Father, if it be 
 possible, let this cup pass from me, nevertheless not as I will, 
 but as thou wilt."^ 
 
 O, what a time that was in the garden! He cometh unto 
 the disciples and findeth them asleep, and sayeth unto Peter, 
 " What, could ye not watch with me one hour?" So, Jesus 
 found that He was left alone with no one to watch with Him. 
 Jesus sayeth unto them, "Watch and pray, that ye enters 
 not into temptation: the spirit indeed is willing, but the flesh 
 is weak."* 
 
 1 Matt. 26:38. ^ John 22: 41. ^ j^att. 26:89, * Matt. 26:41, 
 
THEJGAEDEH OF GETHSEMANE. ^G9 
 
 Hte went the second time and prayed, saying " O my 
 J'ather if this cup may not pass away from me except I 
 drink it, thy will be done," having reference to the cup of 
 suffering. When He said, "O, my father if this cup may 
 not pass away from me," He meant if it be not possible to 
 redeem fallen man unless I drink this cup, unless I suffer for 
 them; Thy will be done. So He went also the third time 
 and prayed, but the cup was not removed and thus He be- 
 came willing to die for all mankind. 
 
 There is a very interesting scene in the garden of Geth- 
 semane — a life size picture showing Christ as broken down 
 under the burden, and an angel coming down from heaven to 
 comfort Him. This is inclosed under a round dome. Hours 
 could be spent here in this noted place looking and medi- 
 tating. 
 
 The large old olive trees in the midst of the garden, it is 
 claimed by tradition, date from the time of Christ, and it 
 seemed as though the trees almost expressed the agony and 
 stood as monuments in memory of Christ in the garden. We 
 wish all our readers could have been with us on that Sunday 
 afternoon. It is certain that it would be one of the great 
 things in their lives that would not be forgotten. This place 
 was visited quite frequently during our six weeks stay in Je- 
 rusalem, and since we left the holy land, O, how vividly these 
 places come up to our minds; and as we write our heart 
 burns within us. 
 
CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 Mount or Olives and Sueroundings. 
 
 CmjRCII OF THE lord's PRAYER — ASCENSION — GREAT INGATHER- 
 ING — RUSSIAN BUILDING — VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT — 
 RESURRECTION — ABSALOM'S TOMB — GROTTO OF 
 ST. JAMES — VILLAGE OF SILOAH — POOL 
 OF SILOAH — ST, MARY'S WELL. 
 
 URNING to our right, on the side of the 
 mountain leading towards Bethany, we come 
 to the place where tradition says the ascen- 
 sion of Christ into heaven took place.' "And 
 He led them out as far as to Bethany, and He lifted up His 
 hands and blessed them." Oh, what a place that is for the 
 Christian heart ! No wonder that many spend their last mite 
 to visit these sacred places at least once in their lifetime. 
 "And while they looked steadfastly toward heaven as He 
 went up, behold two men stood by them in white apparel ; 
 which also said, Ye men of Galilee, why stand ye gazing up 
 into heaven ? this same Jesus, which is taken up from you 
 into heaven, shall so come in like manner as ye have seen 
 Him go into heaven." ^ 
 
 The disciples returned from the Mount of Olives and 
 gathered together in that upper room waiting for the endow- 
 ment of power and the Holy Ghost. And when the day of 
 Pentecost was fully come, they were all with one accord in 
 1 Luke 24: 50. 2 j^^^q j. jq, h. 
 
OUTPOURING or THE HOLY GHOST. 
 
 273 
 
 one place, when suddenly, very quickl}', came a sound, and a 
 rushing, and a mighty wind, which filled all the house; and 
 the cloven tongues and the fire came, and every one was 
 conscious because it sat on them, and the Holy Ghost filled 
 them, and they spoke with other tongues. Oh, what a time, 
 dear reader ! Would you not like to have been there ? But 
 the Lord has promised the same to all at this day. There is 
 
 reason to rejoice that I am not exempted, but stand as a 
 witness to the power of saving and of the Holy Ghost. 
 Blessed be the dear name of the Lord ! 
 
 The result of this wonderful outpouring was that three 
 thousand souls were added to the church the same day. Thus 
 we see that the gathering of souls into Christ's kingdom does 
 not depend so much upon the efforts of man, but upon union, 
 
 18 
 
274 AEOIIND THE GLOBE. 
 
 love, oneness of mind and spirit, and, above all these, the 
 power of the Holy Ghost. When a soul has been influenced 
 by the Holy Ghost the work is well done, and no earthly 
 power can claim the credit. The efforts of the ablest 
 preacher or most noted evangelist will avail nothing unless 
 accompanied by the power of the Holy Spirit. May the 
 Lord bless the Christian churches of this land, and gain to 
 Himself great honors, is the prayer of your humble servant. 
 
 A beautiful church, called the "Church of the Lord's 
 Prayer" (see illus., p. 138), is built on the spot where tradition 
 locates the place at which Christ taught His disciples the 
 "Lord's Prayer." It was built in 1868 by the Princess Latour 
 d' Auvergne, relative of Napoleon IH. Around the passage- 
 ways are thirty slabs, upon which the Lord's Prayer is 
 inscribed in as many different languages. The Latin build- 
 ing and the Russian building, standing on the Mount of 
 Olives, are controlled by their respective societies. From 
 this point we had a magnificent view of Jerusalem. The 
 valley of the Kidron bounds Jerusalem on the east, and in 
 the time of Christ the Kidron was called the winter brook. 
 
 The name, "Valley of Jehoshaphat," is of early origin, 
 having already been applied to this valley by the venerable 
 pilgrim of Bordeaux. The tradition that this gorge will be 
 the scene of the last judgment, founded on a misinterpreta- 
 tion of a passage of Scripture in the book of Joel, ^ is probably 
 of pre-Christian origin, and has been borrowed from the 
 Jews by Christians and Moslems alike. The Moslems accord- 
 ingly bury their dead on the east side of the Temple of 
 Solomon, or the Mosque of Omar, while the Jews have their 
 cemetery on the west side of the Mount of Olives. At the 
 
 1 Joel 3:2. 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE, JERUSALEM. 
 
 (Original Photo.) 
 
 Jerusalem, the golden, 
 
 With milk and honey blest. 
 Beneath thy contemplation, 
 
 Sinks heart and voice opprest: 
 I know not, 0, 1 know not. 
 
 What social joys are there; 
 What radiancy of glory. 
 
 What light beyond compare. 
 
 — Alexander Ewing. 
 
ABSALOM'S TOMB. 277 
 
 resurrection, the sides of the valley are expected to move 
 farther apart, in order to afford sufficient room for the great 
 assembly. 
 
 There are different roads leading from the garden of 
 Gethsemane to the Mount of Olives ; there are also many 
 different things to notice, but as it was raining at this time, 
 and the water was washing down the sides of the Mount, we 
 spent the time, as we walked along with our umbrella open, 
 in picking up some beautifully colored pebbles to take along 
 home with us. We now came to the place where Christ 
 beheld the city, and wept over it. ^ The spot commands a 
 beautiful view of the city. 
 
 The top of the Mount of Olives is reached from Geth- 
 semane in about fifteen minutes. The principal trees are the 
 olive, fig, and carob, and here and there a few apricot, almond, 
 terebinth, and hawthorne trees, but not many of either kind. 
 This is a very tiresome walk, as the roads are rough and in 
 clear weather the sun is very hot. We made frequent visits 
 to Mount Olivet. 
 
 To the west of Gethsemane a road branches off to the 
 lower bridge, and the first object of interest we come to 
 is Absalom's tomb. "Now Absalom in his lifetime had 
 taken and reared up for himself a pillar, which is in the 
 king's dale : for he said, I have no son to keep my name 
 in remembrance : and he called the pillar after his own name : 
 and it is called unto this day, Absalom's place." ^ 
 
 The tomb is cut into the solid rock ; is six and one-half 
 yards square and twenty feet high, and is detached on three 
 sides, being separated from the rock by a passage eight feet 
 wide by nine feet long. As the surrounding rock was not 
 
 1 Luke 19:41. -22 Samuel 18:18. 
 
278 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 high enough to admit of the whole monument being exe- 
 cuted in a single block, a square superstructure of large 
 stones was erected above the massive base. So far as it is- 
 visible above the rubbish, the monument is forty-seven feet 
 high. Near by is the tomb of Jehoshaphat, and also the 
 grotto of St. James, or tomb of St. James (see illus., p. 95). 
 The grotto of St. James is considered holy by the Christians, 
 from the tradition that St. James lay concealed there after 
 the crucifixion, and that he ate no food until after the resur- 
 rection. Here may also be seen the Pyramid of Zacharias, 
 executed under direction of the Christians, in memory of 
 the Zacharias mentioned by Matthew. ^ The monument 
 resembles Absalom's tomb, but is twenty-nine feet high. 
 
 In about four minutes we reach the village of Siloah. 
 Near this village is the house for lepers, erected by the 
 Turkish government, and the inmates are seen on every 
 hand. No wonder that the Lord was moved with compassion 
 when He saw so many cursed with sin and the dreadful 
 disease of leprosy, and healed them as they came to Him. 
 "And when the evening was come they brought unto Him 
 many that were possessed with devils, and He cast them out, 
 and healed all that were sick." 
 
 A short distance from here we come to the Pool of 
 Siloah (see illus., p. 241), which is fifty-two feet long and 
 eighteen feet wide. In consequence of the miracle recorded 
 by John ^ the pool was deemed sacred. The wall of the pool 
 has now fallen in, and the bottom is covered with rubbish. 
 The water is generally more or less salty to the taste, perhaps 
 from the decomposition of the soil through which it perco- 
 lates; it is also polluted by the washerwomen and tanners. 
 
 1 Matthew 23 : 35. ^ joj^q 9.7 
 
THE VALLEY OF HmNOM. 279 
 
 A little further on is the place where tradition says that 
 the prophet Isaiah was sawn asunder in the presence of King- 
 Manasseh. The tradition of this martyrdom is alluded to by 
 some of the authors of church history. Thus, wherever you 
 go, or whatever you see, there is some noted Bible occurrence 
 connected therewith. 
 
 There are two important wells in the valley of the 
 Kidron, which are called "St. Mary's Well" and the "Well 
 of Job," which lies 345 feet below Gethsemane. The first is 
 so called because tradition claims that the Virgin once 
 washed the swaddling clothes of her son at this place, and 
 the second is so called from the tradition that the Holy Fire 
 was concealed in this well during the captivity, until recov- 
 ered by Nehemiah. Probably we are here standing on the 
 brink of the well of En Rogel (or Fuller's spring), mentioned 
 in Joshua 15:7, as the boundary between the tribes of Judah 
 and Benjamin. Here, too, Adonijah prepared a feast for 
 his friends on the occasion of his attempted usurpation of 
 the throne of David. ^ 
 
 The valley of Hinnom is bounded on the south by the 
 Hill of the Tombs, or Hill of the Field of Blood (see illus., 
 p. 87). The valley separates the hill from Zion, and the 
 name of the valley occurs in the description of the boundaries 
 between Judah and Benjamin. ^ 
 
 It was in this valley that the children were anciently 
 sacrificed to Molech. * The spot was called Topheth, or 
 place of fire. These sacrifices took place just outside of 
 the present city walls. Jeremiah vigorously opposed these 
 revolting practices, and Josiah caused the place to be defiled 
 that it might never again be the scene of such sacrifices. 
 
 ' 1 Kings 1:9. ^ Joshua 15:8. ^ 2 Kings 23 : 10. 
 
CHAPTER XXXII. 
 A Visit to Bethlehem. 
 
 "hill of evil counsel" — TREE ON WHICH JUDAS HANGED HIM- 
 SELF — BOUNDARY LINE — WELL OF MAGI — RACHEL'S TOMB — 
 BETHLEHEM — NAOMI— RUTH — BOAZ — DAVID ANOINTED — 
 CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY — MANGER — "MILK 
 GROTTO " — DAVID'S WELL — SHEPHERD'S 
 FIELD — CAVE OF ADULLAM. 
 
 EAVING the Jaffa gate, we turn to our left 
 into the valley of Hinnom. Crossing the stone 
 bridge and leaving the station and the German 
 colony to our right, the ascent of the "Hill of 
 Evil Counsel " is made. Tradition states that here Caiaphas, 
 at his country house, consulted with the Jews how to take 
 Jesus, and from this the hill received the name ''Evil 
 Counsel." 
 
 Passing on, our attention was called to the tree upon 
 which Judas hanged himself. All of its branches extend 
 toward the east. The tree is certainly very old, but it is 
 very doubtful whether this is the original tree. The plain 
 extends hence toward the south, and is identical with the 
 Valley Rephaim, through which the boundary between Judah 
 and Benjamin ran. ^ 
 
 The Philistines were frequently encamped here, and it 
 was here that they were defeated by David. ^ Further on, 
 
 1 Joshua 15 : 8. ^2. Samuel 5 : 18. 
 
THE VALLEY OE HINNOM. 
 
 281 
 
 the spot is shown where it is said the house of Simeon stood. ^ 
 The place is occupied by a small church. A little further on, 
 to the left of the road, is a cistern, the "Well of the Magi," 
 where, it is said according to tradition, the guiding star was 
 again seen. ^ We observe to our right a house of the Catholic 
 
 ""?' 
 
 (Original Photo.) 
 ST. STEPHEN'S GATE, JERUSALEM. 
 
 Maltese Order, where is shown the "Field of Pease," so 
 called from the legend that Jesus once asked a man what he 
 was sowing, to which the reply was, "Stone." The field 
 thereupon produced pease, or stone, some of which are still 
 to be found on the spot. 
 
 About a ten minutes' walk from here we see to the right 
 of the road an insignificant building, styled the "Tomb of 
 1 Luke 2:25. ^liaXi.^-.Q. 
 
282 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Rachel." Rachel was the beloved wife of Jacob. On his- 
 death bed he said, "When there was but a little way to come 
 unto Ephrath, Rachel died by me and I buried her there, in 
 the way of Ephrath; the same is Bethlehem." ^ This spot i& 
 revered alike by Jews, Christians and Mohammedans. 
 
 In about fifteen minutes more we reach Bethlehem,^ 
 which is next to Jerusalem in interest, in all Palestine. 
 Around it clusters a number of sacred memories. It lies 
 about six miles south of Jerusalem, on the crest of a lime- 
 stone ridge. Although so near Jerusalem it is hidden by 
 an intervening height; but through the valleys, stretching 
 eastward to the Dead Sea, fine views are gained of the 
 mountains of Moab. The sides of the ridge are terraced, 
 and sweep around it in graceful curves like natural stairs. 
 They are covered with rows of olive trees, intermixed with 
 the fig and the vine. 
 
 In Bible history, Bethlehem is noted as the city of 
 Naomi, to which she returned from Moab, with Ruth, her 
 daughter-in-law. Here Boaz married Ruth and founded the 
 family of Jesse, from which David sprang. The book of 
 Ruth, in the Old Testament, contains an interesting ac- 
 count of these events. 
 
 At Bethlehem young David kept his father's flocks. In 
 protecting them he acquired the skill in the use of the sling 
 and stone which was displayed in his battle with the giant 
 Goliath. Here David was anointed king of Israel by the 
 prophet Samuel. ^ From him Bethlehem was called the city 
 of David. 
 
 But Bethlehem is especially distinguished as the birth- 
 place of Jesus Christ, the Saviour of the world. It was 
 
 iGen. 48:7. U Sam. 16:13. 
 
{Original Fhoto.) 
 CAVE OF THE NATIVITY: THE MANGER. 
 
 Hail the blest morn when the great Mediator, 
 Down from the regions of glory descends. 
 
 Shepherds, go worship the Babe in the manger; 
 Lo! for His guard the bright angels attend. 
 
 Cold on His cradle the dew-drops are shining. 
 Low lies His bed with the beasts of the stall; 
 
 Angels adore Him, in slumber reclining, 
 Maker, and Monarch, and Savior of all. 
 
i 
 
 i 
 
CHUECH or THE NATIVITY. 285 
 
 thus foretold centuries before it took place, by the prophet 
 Micah: "Thou, Bethlehem Ephratah, though thou be little 
 among the thousands of Judah, yet out of thee shall He come 
 forth unto me that is to be ruler in Israel; whose goings 
 forth have been from of old, from everlasting." ^ 
 
 One night, when some shepherds were watching their 
 flocks near Bethlehem, suddenly a bright light shone around 
 them, and an angel said to them: "Fear not: for, behold, I 
 bring you good tidings of great joy, which shall be to all 
 people. For unto you is born this day in the city of David 
 a Saviour, which is Christ the Lord." Then a great company 
 of angels sang, "Glory to God in the highest, and on earth 
 peace, good will toward men." The shepherds went in haste 
 to Bethlehem to see the child. They found Him lying in a 
 manger, with Mary His mother. ^ 
 
 To Bethlehem also came wise men who had seen in the 
 East a star which denoted the birth of a great King. They 
 worshiped the child and presented to Him gold and sweet 
 smelling spices. ® 
 
 In the Church of the Nativity is shown the spot where 
 the Savior was born, and the manger in which He was laid. 
 As we were escorted by the attendants from one department 
 to another, attention was called to a place in one chapel 
 where, it is stated, Joseph was warned and commanded by 
 the angel to flee into Egypt. Traditions locate many other 
 occurrences in the life of the Holy Family, but reference 
 is here especially made to the chapel of the "Milk Grotto," 
 where, according to tradition, they once sought shelter or 
 concealment, and that a drop of the Virgin's milk fell on 
 the floor of the Grotto. For many centuries both Christians 
 
 1 Micah 5:2. ^ L^j^-e 2: 9— 17. ^ jyjatt. 2: 1—12. 
 
286 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 and Moslems have entertained a superstitious belief that the 
 rock of this cavern has the property of increasing the milk 
 of women and even of animals, and to this day round cakes 
 made of dust from this rock are sold to pilgrims, of which 
 we bought two as specimens. 
 
 Bethlehem means the "House of Bread." It was an- 
 ciently called Ephrath, the fruitful. It had springs of 
 water and fertile fields, very different from the barren 
 regions to the east and south. Here a full supply of food 
 might be obtained from agricultural pursuits. 
 
 Bethlehem is now a flourishing Christian town of white 
 stone houses, containing about 8000 inhabitants. A large 
 building, consisting of a church and three convents, stands 
 over the place where Christ was supposed to have been born. 
 Part of it was erected by the Empress Helena, the mother 
 of the Emperor Constantine, in the early part of the fourth 
 century. It is, therefore, one of the oldest monuments of 
 Christian architecture in the world. A short distance from 
 the gate of the city is the well where David quenched his 
 thrist, and whose waters he prized so highly. ^ 
 
 Many of the Bethlemites, as they are called, work in 
 mother of pearl and in olive wood and are very anxious to 
 sell their trinkets to the visitors; they hang on so persistently 
 in their efforts to sell that a person feels much relieved 
 when he has left the city. We returned to Jerusalem late in 
 the evening, very weary with our much traveling. 
 
 Leaving Bethlehem on the east, the road winds down a 
 rocky slope, past fields of wheat and barley and terraced 
 vineyards. Innumerable sheep and goats are seen on the 
 surrounding hills as in the days of Boaz and David. At the 
 
 » 2 Sam. 23:15. 
 
O 
 
 5' 
 o 
 
 1^ 
 
 
CAVE OF ADULLaM. 
 
 m 
 
 foot a level plain is reached, affording good pasturage, and 
 dotted over with clumps of olive trees. This is called the 
 "■Shepherds' Field," from the tradition that here the shep- 
 herds were keep- 
 ing their flocks 
 by night when 
 the angels ap- 
 peared to them/ 
 The cave of 
 Adullam lies to 
 the south-east, 
 not far from 
 Bethlehem. The 
 limestone rocks 
 of the district 
 abound in caves, 
 many of them of 
 great size. The 
 cave of Adul- 
 l a m is a p- 
 proached by a 
 wild ravine, 
 after which a 
 narrow path 
 leads up to it by 
 a steep ascent. 
 The entrance to 
 
 BETHLEHEMITE WOMAN. {From Flioto.) , , . 
 
 tne cave is by 
 a small opening through which only one person can pass at 
 a time. This leads to a series of chambers, some large 
 
 1 Luke 2:8. 
 19 
 
290 
 
 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 enough to hold several hundred men. Here David sought 
 refuge from Saul. ^ Here he so longed for a drink of water 
 from the wells of Bethlehem at the gate. ^ To this place 
 there came to him every one that was in distress, and every 
 one that was in debt, and David became their captain.^ The 
 term " AduUamites " is sometimes applied to discontented 
 politicians. 
 
 1 1 Sam. 22: 1. - 2 Sam. 23: 15. 
 
 1 Sam. 22:2. 
 
CHAPTER XXXIIL 
 Feom Jerusalem down to Jericho. 
 
 BETHANY — HOME OF JESUS — HOUSE OF MARY AND MARTHA — 
 
 LAZARUS' TOMB — STONE OF REST — APOSTLES' SPRINGS^ 
 
 " VALLEY OF ACHOR " — WAY OF BLOOD — 
 
 MODERN JERICHO-BALSAM GARDENS. 
 
 LL arrangements having been made the even- 
 ing before, we got a timely start in the 
 morning. A party of four of us, accompanied 
 by a Turkish guide, started for Jericho, the 
 Jordan and the Dead Sea. 
 
 Coming around from the Jaila gate and crossing the 
 Kidron, passing Gethsemane and descending the Mount of 
 Olives towards Bethany, we were shown the supposed 
 place where the fig tree stood which Christ cursed.^ 
 
 In a few minutes we reached Bethany which is a small 
 village on the side of the Mount of Olives, not quite two 
 miles from Jerusalem. It lies directly on the road that leads 
 down from Jerusalem to Jericho. It is a poor village, con- 
 taining about twenty or thirty houses, built of stone. The 
 material which composes them seems to have been the ruins 
 of former buildings. It is now called the town of Lazarus in 
 memory of his having been here raised from the dead. In 
 the center rises the ruins of a crusading castle which was 
 once called St. Lazarus. 
 
 iMatt. 21:19. 
 
2^2 AROUND THE GLOBi:. 
 
 Bethany may be called the home of Jesus. When He 
 went up to Jerusalem, He always stopped here in the house 
 of His friend Lazarus, ^ and his loving sisters Mary and 
 Martha. When He had been teaching in the temple all day, 
 He used to walk over the Mount of Olives in the evening, 
 and go to the house of Lazarus to rest Himself and spend 
 the night. 
 
 At one of these visits of Jesus, Martha wished to get up 
 a nice dinner for Him and His disciples. She wanted her 
 younger sister, Mary, to come and help her; but Mary was 
 sitting at the feet of Jesus, listening to His words. Martha 
 came into the room where Jesus was speaking and com- 
 plained to Him of Mary, saying, " Lord, dost thou not care 
 that my sister has left me to serve alone? Bid her, therefore, 
 that she help me." But Jesus took Mary's part, and said: 
 "Martha, Martha, thou art careful and troubled about many 
 things, but one thing is needful, and Mary has chosen that 
 good part which shall not be taken from her."^ 
 
 Bethany is specially noted as the place where Lazarus 
 was raised from the dead. He had died while Jesus was far 
 away beyond Jordan. Jesus knew that he was sick, and He 
 might have come and healed him, but He stayed away in 
 order to show His power by raising him from the dead. 
 When Jesus returned to Bethany, He went with the sorrowing 
 sisters to the grave of Lazarus. After ordering the stone to 
 be taken away from the mouth of the grave, He cried with 
 a loud voice: "Lazarus, come forth," and he that was dead 
 came forth alive and well. What a happy family that was 
 in Bethany that night! 
 
 Going down about twenty steps into a chamber or cave 
 to our left, is a tomb cut into the rock, which is the tomb of 
 
 1 John 11:11. '! Luke 10:38—42. 
 
FROM JERUSALEM TO JERICHO. 295 
 
 Lazarus. Reader do you expect to hear that voice calling 
 you when you have been dead a lon^ while and your poor 
 body turned to dust? O yes, Jesus will call all you fathers 
 and mothers and children.^ Jesus first calls men who are dead 
 to all that is good and right from the death of sin, when He 
 says, "Awake thou that sleepest, and arise from the dead, 
 and Christ shall give thee light;" ^ also, "and you hath he 
 quickened who were dead in trespasses and sin." ' 
 
 Such as have received this new quickening life, and that 
 everlasting life,* though they die,^ yet shall they live. And 
 again there shall be another call to all in their graves, for 
 Jesus says, " Marvel not at this, for the hour is coming in 
 the which all that are in the graves shall hear his voice." May 
 we all hear that voice, "Come ye blessed of my Father, 
 inherit the kingdom prepared for you."^ 
 
 Some seven or eight rods from the tomb of Lazarus is 
 the place where tradition locates the house of Mary and 
 Martha, and also the house of Simon the leper. ^ A short 
 distance from Bethany is the so-called " Stone of Rest," 
 about three feet long, which pilgrims stoop down and kiss. 
 It marks the spot where Martha met Jesus. ^ A chapel has 
 been erected in memory of the event. About ten minutes 
 further on we come to the watering place, or the "Apostles' 
 Springs," which have been identified with the "Sun Spring"® 
 
 The country is very hilly and barren, and this district 
 appears quite deserted. It is dangerous for one to travel 
 without an escort. Here the ' ' certain man " who went down 
 from Jerusalem to Jericho, spoken of in the parable of the 
 good Samaritan, was supposed to have been attacked.^" At 
 
 1 John 5:28. ^ Eph. 5:14. ^ Eph. 2:1. * John 3:16. ^ John 11:25. 
 6 Matt. 25:34. ^ Matt. 26:6, » John 11:20. » Josh. 15:7. ^ Luke 10:30,. 
 
296 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 the place where the inn was supposed to have stood there is 
 at the present time a halting place for travelers. 
 
 There is a deep ravine winding down towards the Jordan, 
 which contains water during the wet season of the year. It 
 is identified as the "Valley of Achor."^ In the distance 
 below us, we saw the valley of the Jordan, and the Dead 
 Sea with its dark blue waters. In about one hour and a half 
 we reached Jericho. 
 
 The ancient Jericho lay by the springs at the foot of the 
 hill of Karantel, that is to the west of modern Jericho, and 
 to the north of Jericho of the Roman period. This is proven 
 both by the Bible and by Josephus. The town was of con- 
 siderable size and enclosed by walls, and its vegetation was 
 very luxuriant. It is sometimes called the city of palms, and 
 down to the seventh century, dates and palms were common, 
 though they have now almost entirely disappeared. Around 
 the town lay a large and flourishing oasis of corn and 
 hemp fields. The Israelitish town at first belonged to the tribe 
 of Benjamin, afterwards to the kingdom of Judah. In spite 
 of many conquests Jericho continued to flourish. 
 
 It was especially noted for its balsam gardens, the cul- 
 ture of which probably dated from th'e period when Solomon 
 received rare spices from South Arabia.^ The plant has now 
 disappeared entirely, although the plants of South Arabia 
 and India would still flourish in this warm climate. Here, too, 
 flourished the Henna, which yields a red dye. In the time of 
 Christ shady sycamores stood by the wayside,^ 
 
 Antony presented the district of Jericho to Cleopatra, 
 who sold it to Herod, and that monarch embellished it with 
 ;i palace and made it his winter residence, as being the 
 
 1 Josh, 15:7, - I Kings 10;10. »Luke 19:4. 
 

 (Original Photo.) 
 TOMB OF LAZARUS AT BETHANY. 
 
 Asleep in Jesus! blessed sleep! 
 
 From which none ever wake to weep; 
 A calm and undisturbed repose, 
 
 Unbroken by the last of foes. 
 Asleep in Jesus! peaceful rest! 
 
 AVhose waking is supremely blest; 
 No fear, no woe shall dim that hour 
 
 That manifests the Savior's power. 
 
JERICHO. 
 
 299 
 
 most beautiful spot for the purpose in his dominions. He 
 died here, but directed that he should be interred in the 
 Herodium. It was at Jericho that the Jewish pilgrims from 
 Perea (east of Jordan) and Galilee used to assemble on their 
 way to the temple, and Christ also began His last journey to 
 Jerusalem from this point. ^ As early as the fourth century 
 the councils of the church were attended by bishops of 
 Jericho. 
 
 1 Luke 19:1. 
 
CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 Jericho, Jordan, and Dead Sea. 
 
 JERICHO— THORNS— BALM OF GILEAD— APPLES OF SODOM — ELISHA'S 
 
 SPRING— HOUSE OF RAHAB — FORTY DAYS' FAST — ROBBERS — 
 
 JORDAN — MAN DROWNED— BATHING IN JORDAN — 
 
 DEAD SEA — CAMELS — MOUNTAINS 
 
 OF MOAB— AMERICAN PARTY. 
 
 fMPEROR Justinian caused the Church of the 
 Mother of God at Jericho to be restored, and a 
 hospice for pilorrims to be erected. About the 
 year 810, a monastery of St. Stephen existed at 
 Jericho. New Jericho, on t^e site of the present village, 
 sprang up in the time of the crusaders, who built a castle and 
 the Church of the Holy Trinity here. The place was after- 
 wards inhabited by Moslems and gradually decayed. In 1840 
 it was plundered by the soldiers of Ibrahim Pasha and in 1871 
 almost entirely destroyed by fire. 
 
 The present Jericho consists of a group of low, dirty 
 huts, with a hotel and a few other buildings which are more 
 attractive. The population is about 300 souls. The villagers 
 usually crowd around strange visitors, and there is danger of 
 being robbed. The site of the home of Zaccheus is shown to 
 us here.^ 
 
 The gardens contain many grape vines which in summer 
 yield an abundant supply of fruit. Everywhere the ground 
 \huke 1«J:1— 10, 
 
.TERICHO. 801 
 
 is overgrown with thorny underwood. From the formidable 
 thorns of these rhamnaceae, the thorny crown of Christ was 
 made. They are now used by the natives in constructing 
 their almost unapproachable fences. 
 
 The Zakkum tree is found here; it is also called the 
 pseudo-balsam tree, or balm of Gilead, having small leaves 
 like the box. The fruit resembles small unripe walnuts, 
 from which the Arabs prepare pseudo-balsam or Zaccheus 
 oil, quantities of which are sold to pilgrims. We find here 
 also the Solanum sanctum, a very woody shrub, three to 
 four feet high, with broad leaves which are wooly on the 
 under side. The fruit looks like an apple, being first yellow, 
 and afterward turning red. It is sometimes called the apple 
 of Sodom, and has been erroneously connected with the wine 
 of Sodom, mentioned in Gen. 19:32. All these are products 
 of a sub-tropical climate, for we are now about 825 feet 
 below the level of the Mediterranean. The barley harvest 
 takes place here in the middle of April. 
 
 The Sultan's Spring, by which Jericho was once supplied 
 with water, wells forth copiously from the earth and is col- 
 lected in a pond twenty-two yards long and six and one half 
 yards wide. Tradition states that this was the water which 
 Elisha healed with salt;^ whence it is called Elisha's Spring- 
 by the Christians. Above the spring is shown the site of the 
 House of Rahab.^ 
 
 A path took us to the Hermits' Caverns on the Jebel 
 Karantel, the grotto in which Jesus is said to have spent the 
 forty days of His fast.^ This was a fearful place, containing 
 a high mountain and an immense precipice, with grottos and 
 caves, so that no one would like to remain there alone any 
 great length of time. 
 
 1 2 Kin?s 2:19—22. ^ Joshua 2. ' Matt. 4:1. 
 
302 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Jericho is about fifteen miles north-east of Jerusalem. In 
 a distance of fifteen miles the road descends about 3,000 feet, 
 hence the phrases, " Goino^ up to Jerusalem," and " Goin^ 
 down to Jericho." On every side the steep mountains and 
 deep ravines, now as formerly, are the haunts of robbers. 
 All travelers passing along it need escorts. 
 
 Jericho, the city of palm trees, ^ stood about five miles 
 west of the Jordan. It was the first city to which the Israel- 
 ites laid siege after crossing the river. The walls fell down 
 miraculously, at the sound of the trumpets." The city was 
 destroyed, and Joshua pronounced a curse upon the man who 
 should rebuild it: " Cursed be the man before the Lord, that 
 riseth up and buildeth this city Jericho. He shall lay the 
 foundation thereof in his first born and in his youngest son 
 shall he set up the gates of it."^ After five centuries this 
 curse was fulfilled.* 
 
 In the time of Christ, Jericho was a flourishing city. 
 Herod built a palace here and an amphitheatre. It is now a 
 barren waste with only a few shapeless ruins. The groves 
 of palms which once stretched for miles around the city, and 
 gave it its name, have disappeared. 
 
 The brook Cherith, on the banks of which Elijah was fed 
 by the ravens,^ flows past Jericho into the Jordan. In earlier 
 times it was known as the Valley of Achor in which Achan 
 was stoned.^ 
 
 We crossed the plain of Jordan to where ' tradition 
 
 locates the baptism of Jesus by John.' Pilgrims come here 
 
 from all parts to visit this sacred place and many of them are 
 
 baptized in the elordan, especially in the spring of the year 
 
 when large pilgrim tours are made. 
 
 1 Deut. 34:3. 2 jq^Yi. 6:20. ^ jogi^^ 6:26. * 1 Kings 16:34. 
 s 1 Kings 17:1—7. ^ Josh. 7. ' Matt. 3:13 
 
A BATH m THE JOEDAK. 305 
 
 The water was muddy, caused by the rains. A few days 
 before we were here, Mr. Steffens, from New York, was 
 drowned at this place, and on this account our dragoman did 
 not want to give his consent for us to bathe in the Jordan, 
 but by insisting, Mr. J. C. Mack and myself had a good bath. 
 We took turns in bathing, one of us remaining on shore and 
 supporting the other in the water with the aid of a long 
 pole. What a place for bathing and baptizing! This is also 
 near the ancient Gilgal of the Bible, where the Israelites 
 erected twelve great stones after crossing the Jordan.* 
 
 To the east of Jericho, a short distance from the Jor- 
 dan, is a Greek monastery where we were well entertained 
 for the night, by the Greek monks. We felt well secured 
 as all the private rooms, chapels and stables were in one 
 enclosure, as is the custom in that country. 
 
 After a good night's rest, we were aroused early in the 
 morning and, after our tea, we again started on our journey. 
 The sky was clear, and the sun shone brightly, and our 
 horses went briskly over the plains. This was a morning 
 that will never be forgotten, we trust. A letter was received 
 from J. C. Mack since our return home stating, " O, what a 
 good time we had going to Jericho, the Jordan and the Dead 
 Sea!" 
 
 The Jordan, the principal river of Palestine, rises in the 
 north near Mount Heron, flows through the Sea of Galilee, 
 and then has a very winding course into the Dead Sea. At 
 present the lower valley of the Jordan alone will be described; 
 the upper portion of the river will be noticed hereafter. The 
 entire length of the river, in a direct line, is about 120 miles. 
 From the Sea of Galilee to the Dead Sea the distance is 
 
 1 Joshua 4:19. 
 20 
 
306 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 about sixty-five miles direct, but the river so doubles and 
 winds that its actual course is about 200 miles long. The 
 name means ''"'flowing down.'''' It enters the Dead Sea about 
 3,000 feet below its source. The Jordan issues from the Sea 
 of Galilee, a muddy, impetuous stream. It has cut so deep a 
 channel that throughout the greater part of its course it is 
 hidden from view. From any height, however, it is easy to 
 trace its course by the trees and shrubs which grow upon its 
 banks and overhang its bed. As the river descends about 
 600 feet between the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea, its 
 current is quite rapid. It is also subject to destructive 
 floods. In the time of harvest it overflows its banks. ■ The 
 wild beasts which find shelter amid the jungle in the valley, 
 must then flee to higher ground. Of a predicted destroyer 
 it is said: "Behold, he shall come up like a lion from the 
 swelling of Jordan against the habitation of the strong: but 
 I will suddenly make him run away from her: and who is a 
 chosen man, that I may appoint over her? for who is like 
 me? and who will appoint me the time? and who is that 
 shepherd that will stand before me? " ' 
 
 The breadth of the Jordan varies: the average is about 
 300 yards. The sunken channel of the river is from a quarter 
 to a half a mile wide and has steep banks of white earth. 
 The river has two banks, a higher and a lower. The water 
 rises to the height of the former, but scarcely ever over- 
 spreads the plain. The whole strip of valley on its banks is 
 called El Ghor, which means a valley between hills. In its 
 course the river forms several small islands, and at a number 
 of places it flows over rocks. The northern part of the 
 valley is partly occupied on both sides of the river by fields 
 
 ' Jeremiah 49:19. 
 
THE DEAD SEA. 309 
 
 of barley; but below Jericho, the plain is barren and untilled 
 with only a few low shrubs. From our starting place in 
 the morning the Jordan is about one hour's ride, over a 
 sandy and salty plain. Nothing is seen along the river 
 with the exception of here and there under brush and small 
 timber. We soon reached the shores of the Dead Sea, and as 
 the sun was shining very warml}^ we bathed our feet in its 
 crystal waters. 
 
 The Dead Sea is the lowest body of water on the face 
 of the earth. It lies in a deep hollow, 1,300 feet below the 
 level of the Mediterranean. It is divided into two unequal 
 portions by a tongue of land. The northern portion is very 
 deep, the greatest depth known being 1,308 feet. The south- 
 ern portion is much shallower, nowhere exceeding twelve 
 feet. The water is clear as crystal and of a deep blue color. 
 The waves are crested with foam of a dazzling whiteness. 
 It is about forty miles long and ten miles broad. It is 
 called the Dead Sea because no animal life can be sustained 
 in its waters. 
 
 In the Bible it is spoken of as the salt sea.' The water 
 contains more than one part in four, of various 
 salts. It is eight times more salty than the ocean. This 
 makes it very bitter to the taste. Another effect is to 
 make the water very buoyant. Eggs float in it like corks. 
 Swimming is very difficult as the body floats high in the 
 water. 
 
 In Joel it is called the East Sea,^ as compared with the 
 
 Mediterranean. Along the eastern shore the mountains of 
 
 Moab stand like a mighty wall, from 1,200 to 2,000 feet above 
 
 the waters. While the mountains on the west side, though 
 
 1 Josh. 3:16. -' Joel 2:20. 
 
310 
 
 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 seldom rising above 1,500 feet, are more broken. The north 
 shore of the Dead Sea is strewn with trunks of trees, bones 
 of animals and shells of fish, brought down by the Jordan. 
 The trunks of trees, after tossing about, possibly for years, 
 in the bitter waters, are cast on shore so saturated with salt 
 that the wood will scarcely burn. They are also covered 
 with a white incrustation of salt. The north shore of the sea 
 is a large marsh of bullrushes and tall grass, with some 
 bushes. Here the attention of our party was attracted by a 
 large herd of camels, feeding. There were many young ones 
 among them, and they created considerable curiosity as they 
 stood upright, 'with their heads high in the air. On our re- 
 turn to Jerusalem we met several other parties going down, 
 among them being some from our own state, and others 
 from Chicago, Illinois. We arrived at Jerusalem at about 
 4 P. M., feeling well paid for our time and investment. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
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 {Original Photo. 
 RESTING ON THE BANKS OF THE DEAD SEA. 
 
 Lo! Death has reared himself a throne 
 
 In a strange city lying alone 
 
 Far down within the dim East, 
 
 Where the good and the bad, and the worst and the best. 
 
 Have gone to their eternal rest. 
 
 There shrines and palaces and towers 
 
 (Time-eaten towers that tremble not!) 
 
 Resemble nothing that is ours. 
 
 Around, by lifting winds forgot, 
 
 Resignedly beneath the sky 
 
 The melancholy waters lie. 
 
CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 Hebron and Cave of Machpelah. 
 
 SOLOMON'S POOLS — AQUEDUCTS — TOMB OF THE PROPHET JONAH- 
 VALLEY OF ESHCOL — HISTORY OF HEBRON — GREAT STONES 
 — TOMBS OF ABRAHAM, ISAAC AND JACOB WITH 
 THEIR WIVES — JEWISH PRAYER — "CHRISTIANS," 
 "DOGS"— MISSIONS— PILGRIMAGES. 
 
 ^ROM the Bethlehem road we turned to our right 
 at Rachel's tomb, and in about one hour we 
 reached the so-called Solomon's Pools. They 
 are three in number, and are situated in a val- 
 ley at the rear of the castle. They were repaired in 1865. 
 As the valley descends abruptly toward the east, the reser- 
 voirs had to be constructed in steps, as an embankment of 
 great size would have been necessary to confine the water 
 in a single large reservoir. 
 
 The three pools do not lie exactly above each other. 
 The second is 53 yards distant from the highest, and 52 
 yards from the lowest, and is about 19 feet below the former 
 and the same height above the other. 
 
 The highest pond is 127 yards long, 76 yards wide, and 
 25 feet deep. It is partly hewn in the rock, and partly en- 
 closed by masonry, flying buttresses being used for the 
 support of the walls. The central pool is 141 yards long, 
 68 yards wide, and 38 feet deep. It is almost entirely 
 hewn in the solid rock. The lowest pool, the finest of the 
 
314 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 three, is 194 yards long, 59 yards wide, and is at places 
 4:8 feet deep. It is partly hewn in the rock, and partly lined 
 with masonry. 
 
 The water from these pools was carried to Jerusalem 
 by aqueducts of which much might be said. Above the upper 
 pool we enter a chamber at the end of which a spring 
 bubbles forth, the water of which is conducted to the pool by a 
 channel supposed to be identical with the sealed fountain 
 mentioned in Solomon's Song 4: 12. 
 
 The surrounding mountains are barren, but the bottom 
 of the valley is not entirely destitute of vegetation. Further 
 on, on the top of the hill, are the ruins called Burjsur, which 
 answers to the Beth-zur.' A short distance from there is 
 shown the site of the Prophet Jonah's tomb, also that of the 
 Prophet Gad who was buried here. Many tombs are cut 
 in the rock at different places in this neighborhood. Shortly 
 before coming to Hebron the country opens out into a rich 
 valley with several fine springs of water and magnificent 
 vineyards. The valley is supposed to be that of Eshcol 
 (cluster), where the spies, Caleb and Joshua, cut down a 
 bunch with one cluster of grapes, bearing it between them 
 on a staff. ^ 
 
 Hebron contests with Damascus as to being the oldest 
 city in the world. The ancient name was Kirjath-arba, the 
 city of Arba.^ Among Mohammedans it is known as El- 
 Khalil, "The Friend," as referring to Abraham who was 
 called by God Himself, "my friend." * 
 
 Hebron is beautifully situated among groves of olive 
 trees on the slope of a hill at the southern end of the valley 
 of Eshcol. It is solidly built with blocks of grey stone. 
 
 1 Josh. 15:58; Neh. 3: 16. 2 Num. 13:23. 3Gen,23:2. * Isaiah 41 : 8. 
 
THE LAND OF ABKAHAM. 
 
 315 
 
 Not long after Abraham came to Canaan, we find he pitched 
 his tent in the plain of Mamre, which is in Hebron, and 
 he built there an altar to the Lord.* 
 
 Here no doubt he often sat at the door of his tent, and 
 watched his flocks and herds as they were quietly feeding 
 
 ABRAHAM ENTERTAINING THE ANGELS. 
 
 on the plains and over the hills of Hebron. While doing so 
 on one occasion, the Lord appeared to him and made known 
 to him the destruction that awaited Sodom and Gomorrah, 
 and the other wicked cities of the plain of the Jordan." 
 1 Gen. 13:18. ^ Gen. 18. 
 
316 AKU Ui^D THE (iLOBE. 
 
 At Hebron Sarah, Abraham's wife, died/ As a burial 
 place he purchased the cave of Machpelah from the children 
 of Heth.^ When Abraham himself died at a good old age, 
 his sons, Isaac and Ishmael, buried him beside Sarah. ^ 
 
 Here also Isaac and his wife Rebekah were laid. Leah, 
 wife of Jacob, was laid in the same cave, and when Jacob 
 died, far away in Egypt, he "gave commandment concerning 
 his bones," that they should be carried there.* 
 
 The entrance to the cave seems to have been in the face 
 of a projecting mass of rock. At a very early period a 
 building was erected over the cave. One of the stones is thirty- 
 eight feet in length. It would be interesting to look at the 
 graves of the patriarchs, but the cave is now enclosed in a 
 great mosque and very few Jews or Christians are allowed 
 to enter it. 
 
 Hebron is a town of great antiquity. Mediaeval tradi- 
 tion localised the creation of Adam here; and at a very early 
 period, owing to a misinterpretation of Joshua 14: 15, where 
 Arba is spoken of as the greatest man among the Anakim 
 (giants), Adam's death was placed here. Abraham is also 
 stated to have pitched his tent under the oaks of Mamre, the 
 Amorite,^ the place being near Hebron, and opposite the 
 cave of Machpelah. 
 
 When Sarah died'^ Abraham purchased from Eph- 
 ron, the Hittite, the double cavern of Machpelah as a 
 family burial-place, and the narrative is no doubt intended 
 to convey the meaning that an interest in the soil of Palestine 
 was thereby secured to Abraham's descendants. Isaac and 
 Jacob were also said to be buried here. 
 
 1 Gen. 2.3 : 2. 2 Gen. 23 : .3—20. ' Gen. 25 : 10. * Gen. 49 : 29—33. 
 =^ Gen. 13:18. ^ Gen. 23. 
 
HEBRON. 317 
 
 Hebron was destroyed by Joshua ^ and became the 
 chief city of the tribe of Caleb (chapter 14) which gradually 
 became incorporated with the tribe of Judah. David spent 
 along time in the region of Hebron. After Saul's death, 
 David ruled over Jadah from Hebron for seven and a half 
 years. It was at the gates of Hebron that Abner was slain 
 by Joab, and David caused the murderers of Ish-bosheth, 
 the son of Saul, to be hanged by the pool of Hebron. 
 Hebron afterwards became the headquarters of the rebellious 
 Absalom, but after that period it is rarely mentioned. 
 
 These tombs are of intense interest to the Jews, and 
 are frequently visited by them. The only place to which 
 they can come is the great walls that form the enclosure. 
 In this wall is a large opening into which our guide, in the 
 presence of an officer, reached to the full length of his arm, 
 and brought out three papers which he destributed to the 
 visitors, the writer receiving one of them. These papers 
 contain Jewish prayers. The Jews write their prayers and 
 requests on paper, making their wants known to God 
 through Abraham their father, and deposit them in these 
 walls, with the expectation of having them answered. The 
 prayers principally refer to the restoration of Jerusalem, the 
 return of their brethren, and blessings on their wives and 
 their children. 
 
 A Jewish family is not happy when they have no off- 
 spring, and at this place special request for such blessings 
 are made known to God. The Jews are allowed to put away 
 their wives in case they bear no children and to take an- 
 other without the least disgrace. We will here give the 
 original prayer as it has been translated from the Hebrew to 
 the English language. 
 
 1 Josh. 10:37. 
 
318 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 JEWISH PRATER. 
 
 Praise God, Jerusalem the Holy City, may God rebuild it 
 speedily. Amen! 
 
 Keuben, the son of Gittel, may he be helped to refreshness 
 and satisfaction, and to be cured from all his pains, and have 
 a contented, pleasant, honorable living. 
 
 My wife, Blume, the daughter of Hench, to a perfect cure, 
 and to get with child of durability and to bring them up in 
 doctrinal education, and to marriage, and benefactions — be- 
 tween all Israel. 
 
 My mother, Gittel, the daughter of Kebekah, may be cured 
 from eye-pains, and have a good age, with much pleasure 
 from "her children. 
 
 Praise God, Sluzka, (another town). My brother, Haim, 
 the son of Gittel, may he be helped to refreshment and satis- 
 faction, and to a perfect cure, and a contented, honorable 
 living. His wife, Malkeh, may she be strengthened in bodily 
 health; his daughter, Sarah Rebekah, may she be married 
 speedily and satisfactorily; his daughter, Libe, to be led in 
 good ways; Para and Sume, may they be brought up in 
 pleasure and satisfaction, with long and good days. Between 
 all Israel. ( Translated hy a converted Jew). 
 
 When Canaan was taken bj^ Joshua, according to a 
 promise given by Moses, Hebron was assigned to Caleb.* 
 Afterwards it was made a city of refuge and given to the 
 priests. When David was first chosen king on the death of 
 Saul, he made Hebron his capital, and he reigned there 
 for seven years. Here Absalom conspired against his father.^ 
 Like Jerusalem, Hebron is looked upon with reverence alike 
 by Jews, Christians and Mohammedans. 
 
 We were here on a great feast day of the Mohammedans 
 and it was very unpleasant as they followed the Christians 
 from place to place calling them all sorts of names, such as 
 "Christians" (derisively) "Dogs" and others more vile while 
 several stones were thrown. Had it not been for our Turkish 
 guard we might not have fared so well. 
 
 1 Josh. 14: 6—14, ^ gam. 15. 
 
RETURNING TO JERUSALEM. 
 
 319 
 
 We called at several Mission Homes where we were very 
 nicely entertained for a short time, and then returned to 
 Jerusalem, on the way passing many pilgrims that were go- 
 ing from Hebron to Jerusalem, most of them with bundles 
 under their arms and staves in their hands, many quite old 
 and hundreds of them in a company. They were principall}^ 
 from Russia. 
 
 These pilgrimages are made in the spring of the year by 
 the thousand, and many of the pilgrims are said to be very 
 poor people while others are not. 
 
 1 
 
CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 Emmaus and Samuel's Tomb. 
 
 TOMBS — KOUGH ROADS — SAMUEL'S TOMB— CHRIST MET THE DIS- 
 CIPLES— EMMAUS — LORD MADE HIMSELF KNOWN — STONE 
 STRUCTURE— MOUNTAINS AND RAVINES — BROOKS— 
 WHERE DAVID SLEW THE GIANT — RETURN 
 TO JERUSALEM— LEAVING THE 
 HOLY CITY. 
 
 PARTY of US, four in number, accompanied 
 by a dragoman, took a tour on foot from 
 Jerusalem to Emmaus and return, taking with 
 us a donkey for the purpose of carrying our 
 coats and lunch. Starting from the Jaffa gate we were soon 
 among the mountains, which hid from our view the Holy 
 City. The country is barren and not much inhabited. Here 
 and there an Arab is seen coming or going with some goats 
 or a camel. Many tombs and caves, cut into the solid rock, 
 are to be seen; while the signs of life are very few, yet there 
 are indications that the country at one time was thickly pop- 
 ulated. We soon lost our path and even our dragoman be- 
 came confused while going over these mountains and hills, 
 rocks and cliffs, that were almost impassible for man or beast. 
 High mountain peaks and immense deep ravines were passed. 
 At places in the low lands, there were some olive trees, 
 while at other times vines and fruit trees were seen. In the 
 distance a building was seen, and on coming closer, we found 
 
THE TOMB OF SAMUEL. 
 
 321 
 
 it to be a church or mosque which contained the tomb of 
 Samuel, the prophet. "And Samuel died and all the Israel- 
 ites were gathered together and lamented him, and buried 
 
 him in his house 
 at Ram ah." 
 What a thought 
 to visit a tomb 
 of one who had 
 been received of 
 the Lord, in an- 
 swer to prayer! 
 
 "So Hannah 
 rose up after 
 they had eaten 
 in Shiloh, and 
 after they had 
 drunk .... And 
 she was in bit- 
 terness of soul, 
 and prayed unto 
 the Lord, and 
 wept sore. And 
 she vowed a 
 vow, and said, 
 O Lord of hosts, 
 if thou wilt in- 
 deed look on the 
 affliction of thine 
 handmaid, and 
 remember me, and not forget thine handmaid, but will give 
 unto thine handmaid a man child, then 1 will give him unto 
 
 21 
 
 JERUSALEM DRAGOMAN. 
 
 (Original Photo.) 
 
322 AROUKD THE GLOBE, 
 
 the Lord all the days of his life, and there shall no razor 
 come upon his head . . . .And Eli said unto her, How long wilt 
 thou be drunken? put away thy wine from thee. And Hannah 
 answered and said, No, my lord, I am a woman of a sorrow- 
 ful spirit: I have drunk neither wine nor strong drink, but 
 have poured out my soul before the Lord .... Then Eli an- 
 swered and said. Go in peace: and the God of Israel grant 
 thee thy petition that thou hast asked of him." ^ 
 
 And the woman was no more sad, and the child was born 
 unto her, and she brought him unto the Lord. "For this 
 child 1 prayed; and the Lord hath given me my petition 
 which I asked of him: therefore also I have lent him to the 
 Lord. . . .And he worshipped the Lord there." ^ What a les- 
 son of faith and perseverance can be learned here from this 
 faithful mother! After 3,000 years we are permitted to visit 
 the tomb of her righteous son. 
 
 The road was very rough and we became tired of travel- 
 ing. We stopped here to rest and eat our lunch and then 
 passed on with the ancient Emmaus in view. What a road 
 to travel! Undoubtedly the Savior walked along this road 
 after His resurrection from the grave, meeting on the way 
 two of His disciples who were earnestly engaged in talking 
 of the things which had happened. 
 
 " And it came to pass, that, while they communed to- 
 gether and reasoned, Jesus himself drew near, and went with 
 them. But their eyes were holden that they should not know 
 him. And he said unto them. What manner of communica- 
 tions are these that ye have one to another, as ye walk, and 
 are sad?" And they answered, not knowing to whom they 
 spake, "Art thou a stranger in Jerusalem, and hast not 
 
 1 1 Sam. 1:9— Hand 14, 15, 17. -1 Sam. 1:27, 28. 
 
THE EOAD TO EMMAUS. 
 
 323 
 
 known the things which are come to pass there in these days? 
 And he said unto them, What things? And they said unto 
 him, Concerning Jesus of Nazareth, which was a prophet 
 mighty in deed and word before God and all the people." 
 
 What an acknowledgement of Christ this was, as they 
 opened their hearts to Him in complaint! He said unto 
 them, "O fools, and slow of heart to believe all that the 
 
 "ABIDE WITH US; FOR IT IS TOWARD EVENING." 
 
 prophets have spoken: ought not Christ to have suffered 
 these things, and to enter into his glory? " And He began to 
 expound unto them the Scriptures. "And they drew nigh to 
 the village, whither they went: and he made as though he 
 would have gone further. But they constrained him, saying. 
 Abide with us; for it is toward evening, and the day is far 
 spent. And he went in to tarry with them. And it came to 
 
324 AROUND THE GLOBE. - 
 
 pass as he sat at meat with them, he took bread and blessed 
 it, and brake, and gave to them. And their eyes were opened 
 and they knew him, and he vanished out of their sight. And 
 they said one to another. Did not our heart burn within us 
 while he talked with us by the way, and while he opened to 
 us the Scriptures?" ' 
 
 We were admitted into the enclosed walls of the ancient 
 grounds, where, on one side, is a convent. We were well 
 entertained by the priests, and kindly shown the different 
 places of interest. Leading us out into the yards they 
 pointed out to us the place where the ancient buildings stood. 
 There is at present nothing left but ruins of stone structures 
 and immense stone floors. The spot was shown where the 
 table stood when the Lord blessed the bread and vanished 
 out of their sight. ^ 
 
 We were all very tired by this time, but while we were 
 thinking of the events of long years ago, when Jesus and the 
 disciples walked over these same roads, we forgot all our 
 weariness. 
 
 On bidding the priests adieu, we took our course for 
 Jerusalem. The day was by this time far spent, and we 
 hurried along. Coming down the valley we saw the place, 
 where, according to tradition, David picked up out of the 
 brook the stones with which he slew the giant, while on one 
 mountain were the Israelites and on the other the Philistines.^ 
 
 The country is hilly and barren, and without much inter- 
 est, were it not for the wonderful Bible facts which make 
 every step so interesting, instructing and inspiring. We 
 soon reached the Jaffa road, very weary and fatigued, but 
 grateful in heart to God for the wonderful blessings and priv- 
 ileges bestowed; we arrived at our hotel about 7:30 P. M. 
 
 1 Luke 24:15—32. 2 Luke 24:31. ^ j Sam. 17:40. 
 
STAETING FOR JOPPA. 327 
 
 We then spent some weeks in and about Jerusalem, 
 visiting the many places of interest; talking with many peo- 
 ple about the country and what happened in different local- 
 ities; tracing the travels and wanderings of our Lord and 
 Master from place to place; hearing many traditions, some 
 unquestionably of doubtful origin; reading from the Holy 
 Book passages that were appropriate to certain places and 
 occasions; knowing that this is the land which God had 
 promised to His people, and that they lived and ruled here; 
 realizing that here His only begotten Son came upon earth 
 to save fallen humanity, and just where He ought to have 
 found His own He was despised and rejected, but at last 
 overcame His enemies and their conspiracies, ascended to 
 His Father, and now we await His second coming — all these 
 things taken together create an impression upon one which 
 is beyond the power of words to express. 
 
 On the 16th of April, in company with our friend, R. 
 Poweck, we started for Joppa. We had formed many pleas- 
 ant acquaintances during our stay in Jerusalem, and our 
 parting with friends was tinged with sadness. As the train 
 moved slowly out amid the waving of handkerchiefs and the 
 shedding of tears, it reminded us of a funeral procession. A 
 feeling akin to that experienced by a child leaving home for 
 the first time came upon us. The poet expresses a fine sen- 
 timent when he says: 
 
 " We will meet you in the city 
 Of the New Jerusalem." 
 On the other hand, after being away from our dear ones 
 at home so long a time, it caused us joy to realize that instead 
 of sailing farther away, we were going in the direction of 
 " home." 
 
CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 Mount Carmel. 
 
 leaving joppa— haifa (acre)— mount carmel— elijah's castle 
 — phcenicia— baal worshipers, 
 
 OPPA is the seaport of Jerusalem and the 
 place from which we sailed for Haifa, a dis- 
 tance requiring about five hours sailing. The 
 sea was calm and the air was cool. We left 
 Joppa about midnight, arriving at Haifa early in the morning. 
 Haifa is located at the foot of Mount Carmel, across the 
 beautiful bay from Acre, or Accho, as it was called in Bible 
 times. 
 
 The tribe of Asher did not succeed in driving out the 
 inhabitants of Accho. ^ A Jewish colony was afterwards 
 established in this town, yet most of the citizens remained 
 heathen. Accho was considered by the Greeks to belong to 
 Phoenicia. It was afterwards called Ptolemais by one of the 
 Ptolemies, and was important as a seaport. By Roman 
 authors, and on coins, the place is represented as a colony 
 of the Emperor Claudius. St. Paul once spent a day at Ptole- 
 mais,^ and during its later Christian period the place became 
 an episcopal see, the names of several of the bishops being 
 handed down to us as members of various councils. 
 
 Haifa has about 7,250 inhabitants. A German colony is 
 located here. The Europeon part of the town is very clean 
 
 1 Judges 1:31. 2^cts21:7. 
 

MOUNT CARMEL. 331 
 
 and attractive, vineyards having been planted on Mount 
 Carmel by the Germans. 
 
 Mount Carmel has a very historical connection. It was 
 situated on the south frontier of the tribe of Asher, and is 
 frequently mentioned in the Bible. Mount Carmel is a ridge 
 stretching in a north-western direction for about fifteen miles 
 from the Plain of Esdraelon, till it terminates at the Bay of 
 Acre, which forms its southern boundary. Some of its peaks 
 are 1,700 feet above the level of the sea. Its steep slopes 
 are covered with forests and thick jungles, the dark colors 
 of which make the chain conspicuous among the surround- 
 ing white limestone mountains. At its foot the river Kishon 
 enters the sea. Mount Carmel abounds with caves. The proph- 
 ets Elijah and Elisha frequently found refuge among them. 
 The peak is now called "The place of burning." Here Eli- 
 jah challenged the priests of Baal to prove by fire from 
 heaven that Baal was the true God; but there was no re- 
 sponse, although they cut themselves with knives, crying, 
 "O Baal, hear us." Elijah then offered sacrifice to the Lord, 
 and fire from heaven consumed the whole burnt offering. 
 The people fell on their faces, exclaiming, "The Lord, He 
 is the God." Down below is the river Kishon, to which 
 Elijah told the people to take the prophets, and where he 
 slew them. The ruins of an old castle mark the location ac- 
 cording to tradition where the slaughter of the prophets of 
 Baal took place. 
 
 While Elijah prayed for rain on top of Mount Carmel, 
 he told his servants to look out towards the sea. At first 
 they saw a little cloud rising from it, "like a man's hand;" 
 but it swelled till "the heaven was black with clouds," and 
 there was a very great rain. 
 
332 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 The aboriginal inhabitants regarded the mount as sacred, 
 and at a very early period it was called the Mount of God.* 
 The beauty of Carmel is also extolled in the Bible. ^ 
 
 PH(ENICIA. 
 
 Phoenicia was a tract of country lying north of 
 Palestine, along the coast of the Mediterranean, and ex- 
 tending eastward to Lebanon. Its limits varied at different 
 times. It may be said to have extended 200 miles northward 
 from Acre, with an average breadth of fifteen miles. 
 
 Conder says of the Phoenicians: ""This strong and clever 
 people, who in the later times had all the trade of the Mediter- 
 ranean in their hands, are said to have come from the mouth 
 of the Euphrates. They already traded with Egypt before 
 the time of Moses, and it is probable that the introduction 
 of the alphabet, not only into Palestine, but also into Greece, 
 is due to the Phoenicians, 
 
 "We know that the Hebrews, at least as early as the 
 d'dys of Hezekiah (726 B. C), and probably much earlier, 
 together with the Moabites and the Phoenicians, used an 
 alphabet which was so simple and practically useful that it 
 gradually superseded the clumsy characters of the Egyptians 
 and which has spread in various forms westward all over 
 Europe and America, and in the East throughout Asia and 
 
 India." The Phoenician language very much resembled the 
 Hebrew. 
 
 The Phoenicians, like the Hindoos, were a very religious 
 people. Every person bore a religious name, placing himself 
 under the protection of some god or goddess, as Abibaal 
 (Baal is my father), Baleazar (Baal protects). Each city 
 was under the protection of some deity. The ships carried 
 
 ' 1 Kings 18: 19—36.; ^ xsa. 35: 2; Song of Solomon 7: 5. 
 
BELIGION OF THE PHCENICIANS. 33S 
 
 images of the gods at the prow. Their chief deities we 
 Baal and Ashtoreth supposed to represent the sun and moon, 
 and Molech. 
 
 The religion had two horrible rites. Virgins prostituted 
 themselves in the temple as a work of merit. Human sacri- 
 fices were frequently made. In times of danger, children 
 were offered by their parents to Molech. This large brazen 
 image was heated to a glow by fire within. The victims 
 were placed by their parents in the arms of the image from 
 which they rolled into the fiery lap below. First-born, or only 
 sons, or virgin daughters were deemed especially acceptable 
 to the divinities. When Carthage, a famous city in northern 
 Africa, founded by the Phoenicians, was besieged, 200 chil- 
 dren of the noblest families were thus sacrificed. 
 
 The prophet Micah, in the Old Testament, thus de- 
 scribed the worship acceptable to God, "Wherewith shall 
 I come before the Lord, and bow myself before the 
 high God ? Shall 1 come before him with burnt offerings, 
 with calves of a year old ? Will the Lord be pleased with 
 thousands of rams, or with ten thousands of rivers of oil ? 
 Shall 1 give my first-born "for my transgression, the fruit of 
 my body for the sin of my soul ? He hath shewed thee,' O 
 man, what is good; and what doth the Lord require of thee, 
 but to do justly, and to love mercy, and to walk humbly 
 with thy God."^ 
 ' Micah 6:6—8. 
 
CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 Tyre and Sidon. 
 
 ANCIENT RUINS — BIBLE TIMES — CROWNING CITY — BOBBED OF ITS 
 TREASURES — TOP OF A ROCK — ZAREPHATH. 
 
 HE two chief cities of Phoenicia were Tyre and 
 Sidon. To these cities the Lord Jesus referred 
 when He began to upbraid the cities wherein 
 most of His mighty works were done, be- 
 cause they repented not: "Woe unto thee, Chorazin! Woe 
 unto thee, Bethsaida! for if the mighty works, which 
 were done in you, had been done in Tyre and Sidon, they 
 would have repented long ago in sackcloth and ashes." ' 
 
 Tyre was a rich and flourishing city in the days of 
 Solomon. Even earlier, in the time of Joshua, it was called 
 "the strong city Tyre."^ It was a seaport town, with a 
 fine harbor. Most of the sailors in the world at that time 
 belonged to Tyre. The ships of Tyre sailed to every port 
 in the Mediterranean, some went even to Britain for its tin. 
 In the markets of Tyre were to be found the choicest prod- 
 ucts of every country in the world — fine linen, spices, 
 ivory, gold, silver and other metals, and precious stones. ^ 
 It was called "the crowning city, whose merchants are^ 
 princes." * 
 
 While Tyre was in the height of its prosperity, its ruin 
 was prophesied by Ezekiel, He foretold that ' 'they shall break 
 1 Matt; 11 : 21. '' Joshua 19: 29. ^ Ezekiel 27. ■* Isa. 23: 8. 
 
TYEE. 
 
 335 
 
 down thy walls, and destroy thy pleasant houses: and they 
 shall lay thy stones and thy timber and thy dust in the midst 
 of the water."' Nebuchadnezzar, king of Babylon, came 
 
 {Original Photo.) 
 CONVENT OF ST. ELIAS, NEAR JERICHO. 
 
 with a great army and besieged Tyre. The siege lasted thir- 
 teen years. When the people found that the city would be 
 1 Ezek. 26: 12. 
 
3?6 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 taken they went over in their ships to the island, where 
 they built a new city, the present one. They carried every- 
 thing of value from the old city and left it empty. Nebuchad- 
 nezzar in his anger broke down the walls and destroyed the 
 pleasant houses, as the prophet had predicted. 
 
 New Tyre became richer and stronger than the old city. 
 Being on an island, an army could not reach it. Some 
 centuries later when Alexander the Great was on his way to 
 the East, he resolved to conquer the island city of New 
 Tyre. As he had no ships he set his army to building a 
 road out into the sea to reach the island on which Tyre 
 stood. In making this causeway he employed the ruins 
 of old Tyre, carrying them away, and throwing them into 
 the sea. Thus were the words fulfilled, "Thy stones and 
 thy timber shall be laid in the midst of the water." Alexan- 
 der did not entirely destroy the city, and it existed for hun- 
 dreds of years afterward. 
 
 Its utter ruin, however, had also been foretold. God 
 said He would make it like the top of a rock, a place to 
 spread nets upon.^ This was also fulfilled; for many years 
 it was nothing but a miserable fishing village called Tsur. It 
 now contains about 4,000 inhabitants. 
 
 Zarephath was a seaport about fifteen miles north of 
 Tyre. The name means melting place for metals. During a 
 long famine in Israel, the prophet Elijah was miraculously 
 supported by a widow here, whose son also he restored to 
 life.^ The place was called by the Greeks Sarepta.* It is said 
 to have received its name Sidon from the eldest son of 
 Canaan.* Sidon appears to have been older than Tyre, for 
 the latter is not mentioned with it in Gen. 10: 15—18 and is 
 
 1 Ezek. 26: 14. « 1 Kings 17: 9— 24. ^ Luke 4: 26. * Gen. 10: 15. 
 
SIDON. 337 
 
 called her daughter.' In Joshua it is called "Great Zidon."^ 
 It prospered and was inferior only to Tyre, but its ruin was 
 also foretold.^ 
 
 It was destroyed by Artaxerxes Ochus, king of Persia, 
 350 B. C. It was afterwards rebuilt, but it never rose to 
 eminence. The present city is called Saida. The harbor is 
 choked up with sand, and its trade is inconsiderable, being 
 chiefly noted for its fruit. 
 
 ' Isa. 23: 12. 2 jogh. 11; 18. 3 ^zek. 28: 21-23. 
 
 PLOWING AND SOWING IN THE ORIENT, 
 
 22 
 
CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 Nazareth and Hills of Galilee. 
 
 KISHON — HOME OF ZEBEDEE — NAZARETH — HOME OF JESUS — SHEEP 
 
 AND GOATS — STREETS — ST. MARY'S WELL — MOUNT TABOR — 
 
 HILLS OF GALILEE — BEDOUIN CAMPS — TIBERIAS — 
 
 SEA OF GALILEE — A NIGHT OF MISERY. 
 
 PARTY of four was soon organized and with 
 a carriage and a driver left Haifa for Naza- 
 reth, Tiberias, and the Sea of Galilee. The 
 distance to Nazareth is twenty-three and one 
 half miles or one day's drive, the road leading through the 
 well cultivated plain of the Kishon; here we went through a 
 grove of oak trees which are very rare in this country. Many 
 ruins of old villages are seen. 
 
 About four miles from Haifa we came to the beautiful 
 village of Yafa, the Japhia of Joshua 19:12, on the borders 
 of Zebulun. A tradition arose in the middle ages that the 
 home of Zebedee and his sons James and John was situated 
 here. The ruins of old homes are seen on every hand in 
 which Bible characters were born, lived and died. 
 
 Nazareth broke suddenly into view and we descended by 
 a good road into the town. Here we halted for the night. 
 Nazareth lies a few miles north-west of Mount Tabor. It 
 stands on the western side of a valley, and rises a little way 
 up the slope of a hill. 
 
THE HOME OE JESUS. 341 
 
 One fountain seems to have been the main if not the 
 only source of water supply for the inhabitants. It was to 
 this fountain no doubt that Mary the mother of Jesus came, 
 day by day, amon^ the village maidens, to fill her pitcher. 
 At Nazareth the angel Gabriel appeared to Mary and fore- 
 told the birth of her Son.^ The fear of a cruel king drove 
 Joseph and Mary to Nazareth, and there Jesus was brought 
 up till He began His public ministry. No event in His his- 
 tory while living here is recorded except the journey to 
 Jerusalem.^ 
 
 After the baptism of Jesus and His teaching in Galilee, 
 He came to Nazareth, and, as His custom was, went into the 
 synagogue on the Sabbath day, and stood up to read, His 
 words exciting such anger that those who heard Him "thrust 
 him out of the city, and led him unto the brow of the hill 
 whereon their city was built, that they might cast him down 
 headlong." But He passed through the midst of them and 
 went His way.^ 
 
 The Savior was called "Jesus of Nazareth," because He 
 had lived there so long. The city was small and despised. 
 "Can any good thing come out of Nazareth?" asked Na- 
 thanael.* 
 
 In the time of Christ the hills around were no doubt 
 terraced and cultivated to their summits. They are now 
 bare, but they yield pasture for flocks of sheep and goats. 
 Jesus, in one of His addresses, spoke of the separation of the 
 sheep from the goats. ^ The goats, traveling faster than the 
 sheep and thriving on a scantier vegetation, are driven to the 
 mountain tops, while the sheep feed on the richer herbage 
 below. 
 
 1 Luke 1:26—28. - Luke 2:40—52. ^ Luke 4:16—30. 
 
 * John 1:46. ^ Matt. 25:33. 
 
342 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 The town now contains about 5,000 inhabitants, mostly 
 Christians. Two monasteries are here, one of the Greek, the 
 other of the Latin rites, containing a large number of monks. 
 All those given as Christians should be considered as a whole. 
 In the Orient it is not this name or that by which Christians 
 are known, but the principal question is, " Are you a Chris- 
 tian?" because Heathens, Mohammedans and Jews all reject 
 Christ as a Savior, while the Greeks, Latins, Armenians, 
 Coptics, Franciscans and Protestants are all called "Chris- 
 tians" because they believe that Christ is the Savior of the 
 world. 
 
 The streets in Nazareth are very poor; in fact this is the 
 case throughout the Turkish domain. In the principal street 
 of Nazareth, the gutter, instead of being one on each side, as 
 is the case in American towns, was in the middle of the street, 
 and, as the traveling v^as difficult, we were all compelled 
 to get out and walk, one and sometimes two of us being 
 required to hold the wagon to keep it from falling over. 
 
 Over these hills and valleys and perhaps on these very 
 streets the blessed feet of Jesus trod during His boyhood, and 
 the well called "St. Mary's well" was no doubt frequently 
 visited by Him when a child. 
 
 In a short time after leaving Nazareth we were in a valley 
 with Mt. Tabor in our front, and in about fifteen minutes 
 more we were at the base of the hill. To our right in the 
 valley below we saw the ancient Daberath.^ 
 
 Mount Tabor was situated on the frontier of Issachar 
 and Zebulun. It was here that Deborah directed Barak to 
 assemble an army, and from hence the Israelites marched into 
 the plain and defeated Sisera.^ In the Psalms, Tabor and 
 
 1 Josh. 19:12. 2 Judges 4. 
 
SCENES IN GALILEE. 
 
 MS 
 
 Hermon are extolled together.' Origen and St. Jerome speak 
 of Mt. Tabor as the scene of the transfiguration.- There are 
 three chapels built there in memory of t^^e three tabernacles 
 which St. Peter wished to build. 
 
 Passing along we saw many sheep and goats pasturing 
 on the hills of Galilee. The hills were dotted with the numer- 
 ous camps of 
 Bedouins. The 
 Sea of Galilee 
 was before us, 
 and as we as- 
 cended the hills 
 coming around 
 the curves we 
 were in Tiberias. 
 By this time it 
 was evening and 
 the party were 
 much wearied, 
 and arrange- 
 ments were at 
 once made for 
 night quarters. 
 It was a pleas- 
 ant evening, the 
 moon and stars were shining, the sea was calm and the 
 water as clear as crystal. Tiberias is built down to the 
 waters, it being only a few rods from the hotel to the sea. 
 We had the pleasure of bathing in that noted body of water. 
 The name Galilee^ was originally applied to the highlands 
 1 Psalms 89:13. ^ Mark 9:2—10. ^ jg^. 9:i^ and Matt. 4:15. 
 
 {Original Photo). 
 BEDOUIN WOMEN. 
 
344 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 only which extended from north of the lake of Gennes- 
 aret to the west. The tribes of Asher, Zebulun, and Issachar 
 who dwelt here were carried into captivity like their kinsmen, 
 but the land was colonized anew after the captivity, by Jews 
 from the South. The population, however, retained its 
 mixed character, and the name Galilee was extended to in- 
 clude the whole province lyino; between the plain of Jezreel 
 and the river Litany. The north part was called Upper Gali- 
 lee, to the south of which was Lower Galilee. 
 
 The country was famed for its fertility, rich pastures and 
 luxuriant forest trees being its chief features. The tract situ- 
 ated to the west of the lake was the most beautiful part of 
 the country. In the Roman period, Galilee formed a separate 
 province and was densely peopled. 
 
 The Jewish element still continued predominant, but 
 was more affected by foreign influences than in Judea. The 
 language also varied from that spoken in Judea. ^ The Jews 
 of this district seem to have been less strict and less ac- 
 quainted with the law than those of Judea, by whom they 
 were consequently despised. Their revolt against the Romans 
 in A. D. 67 proved, however, that their national spirit was 
 still as strong as that of their brethren. 
 
 Galilee attained the height of its prosperity about the 
 time of Christ. Sepphoris had for a time been its chief town; 
 but Herod Antipas, who was not less splendor-loving than 
 his father Herod the Great, determined to build a new and 
 magnificent capital. His dominions at this time embraced 
 Galilee and Perea, which however were separated by the 
 Decapolis. Tiberias has a population of 3,700 which are of 
 different nationalities and different religions. 
 
 1 Matt. 26:73. 
 
A NIGHT IN TIBEEIAS. 
 
 345 
 
 The night was spent, but not without being disturbed by 
 the noise of the natives, donkeys and dogs, and the attentions 
 of fleas, for which Tiberias is noted. Arabs say the king of 
 fleas resides here; consequently a part of the night was spent 
 in a wakeful state, as is the custom in that country. As they 
 have flat roofs on their houses, and they are easy of access, I 
 spent a part of the time on the roof. My position com- 
 manded a magnificent view of the sea, which helped to vary 
 the monotony of waiting for morning. 
 
 Finally morning came, and after partaking heartily of 
 breakfast consisting of fish from the Sea of Galilee, which 
 had been ordered the previous evening, the day was spent on 
 the sea and visiting the ancient rains along its shores. 
 
CHAPTER XL. 
 
 Sea of Galilee and Adjacent Points. 
 
 GENNESARET — DESCRIPTION— MAGDALA — CAPERNAUM — CHORAZIN— 
 
 BETHSAIDA — SEA OF GALILEE — PLAIN OF THE FIVE 
 
 THOUSAND— CANA OF THE BIBLE — SAUL'S 
 
 BATTLE-GROUND — ARABS PLOWING. 
 
 "AKE Tiberias was anciently called the lake of 
 Gennezar or Gennesaret, from the plain at its 
 north-west end bearing that name. This is the 
 place where the herd of swine ran into the 
 sea and were drowned.' The greatest length of the 
 lake is thirteen miles, and the greatest width nearly six miles. 
 The banks are beautifully green early in the spring. The 
 hills surrounding this beautiful blue body of water are of 
 moderate height, and the scenery is enlivened by a few 
 villages. 
 
 The sea is sometimes visited by violent storms. We 
 learn from the Gospels that the lake was once navigated by 
 numerous vessels, but there are now only a few miserable 
 fishing boats here. The water is used for drinking purposes 
 by all of the inhabitants there about and has a slight brack- 
 ish taste. It is cooled by being placed in porous jars and 
 allowed to stand over night. 
 
 Magdala is a town north of Tiberias and at the south 
 end of the plain of Gennesaret. The name means tower. It 
 was the city of Mary Magdalene, and here Jesus Christ 
 1 Luke 8: 33. 
 
THKEE ANCIENT CITIES. 349 
 
 landed after feeding the multitude on the opposite bank. 
 Mary Magdalene, on whom Jesus had performed a wonder- 
 ful cure, ministered to Him of her substance, stood by His 
 cross, went to His sepulchre, and was the first to welcome 
 Him when He rose from the dead.' At present there are in 
 existence only the ruins of a tower and heaps of rubbish, 
 among which about twenty mud-built cottages stand. 
 
 Capernaum, Chorazin and Bethsaida were three cities 
 on the northern end of the lake. The exact position of 
 Capernaum is disputed. It is generally supposed to have 
 been not far west of the Jordan inlet, where there are at 
 present many ruins and large blocks of stone. A convent is 
 built here in memory of the ancient Capernaum. Here we 
 ate our lunch, there being six of us besides the boatman. 
 
 Jesus Christ was so often in Capernaum that it is called 
 His own city.^ Here He commenced His public ministry, 
 and often taught in the synagogue.^ Here He healed Peter's 
 wife's mother,* the nobleman's son,^ the centurion's serv- 
 ant,® and raised from the dead the ruler's daughter.' The 
 ruins of a synagogue are still visible. 
 
 Chorazin stood on a hill about two and a half miles 
 north of the supposed site of Capernaum. The remnants of 
 the houses are partly in a shallow valley with some on a 
 rocky spur. 
 
 Bethsaida, "House of Fishing," was the city of Andrew, 
 Peter and Philip.^ Its exact position is uncertain. 
 
 In these three cities Jesus had performed great miracles, 
 yet, on account of their unbelief, they were to be destroyed. 
 Only a few ruins mark the places where they are supposed 
 
 1 Luke 8 : 2, 3. ^ ^att. 9:1. ^ John 6 : 59. * Matt. 8 : 14. 
 6 John 4 : 46. " ]^att. 8:5,6. ' Matt. 9 : 18—25. « John 1 : 44. 
 
350 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 to have stood. They are an awful warning to those who 
 refuse or neglect God's offered salvation through Jesus 
 Christ. Jesus said: "Woe unto thee, Chorazin! woe unto 
 thee, Bethsaida! for if the mighty works, which were done 
 in you, had been done in Tyre and Sidon, they would have 
 
 repented And thou, Capernaum, which art exalted unto 
 
 heaven, shalt be brought down to hell: for if the mighty 
 works, which have been done in thee, had been done in 
 Sodom, it would have remained until this day." And now 
 the teachings and prophecies have all been fulfilled.' 
 
 The weather being very warm and the water clear and 
 <30ol, there was nothing more enjoyable than a bath in this 
 beautiful lake. 
 
 The lake is subject to sudden storms which sweep down 
 :from the hills by which it is surrounded. At about 2 P. M. 
 while we were at Capernaum our boatman became alarmed, as 
 the wind began to blow and the waters raged. He called 
 for all the passengers to get aboard and return to Tiberias 
 at once, as it would be impossible to return if the storm be- 
 oame more severe. The storm however soon subsided, and 
 all fears vanished. How often do we read of the storms on 
 the sea of Galilee! 
 
 Jesus at one time performed a great miracle at the north 
 «nd of the lake, east of the Jordan inlet, where there is a 
 beautiful plain sloping towards the sea. Here Jesus fed 
 a great multitude with five loaves and two fishes, and there 
 was enough for all, about five thousand men, besides women 
 and children. After such a great number had eaten, there 
 were twelve baskets full of fragments left.^ 
 
 "And straightway Jesus constrained his disciples to 
 ^et into a ship, and to go before him unto the other side, 
 
 1 Matt. 11:21—23. ^ ^att. 14:20, 21. 
 
JESUS WALKING ON THE SEA. 
 
 351 
 
 while he sent the multitudes away." And Jesus went up 
 into the mountain to pray. By evening the ship in which 
 the disciples were crossing the water was in the midst of the 
 sea, tossed by the waves, "for the wind was contrary." 
 
 Towards morning "Jesus went unto them, walking on 
 the sea." And when the disciples saw Him walking on the 
 sea they were afraid and cried out, "It is a spirit," and were 
 
 FEEDING THE FIVE THOUSAND. 
 
 in trouble; but Jesus, knowing their condition, spoke unto 
 them, saying, "Be of good cheer, it is 1, be not afraid." 
 When Peter knew that it was the Lord, he wanted to go to 
 Him on the sea. Jesus said, "Come" and Peter left the ship, 
 but soon began to sink, because he looked at the winds and 
 the roughness of the sea instead of looking to Jesus. So 
 often we, by looking away from Christ to the storms and 
 
352 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 raging winds of life, lose our hold by doubting, and we 
 sink. 
 
 Jesus heard and helped when Peter cried: "Lord save 
 me." And so He will hear us when we call upon Him. Jesus 
 stretched forth His hand, and caught him, and said unto 
 him, "O thou of little faith." 
 
 Is it not true, dear reader, that Jesus has often grasped 
 our hands just in time to keep us from sinking; if it were 
 not for this Holy One we would soon be lost in despair. He 
 grasps the sinking, heals the sick, feeds the hungry, opens 
 the eyes of the blind, and brings back to life the dead, and 
 through Him all may receive the forgiveness of past sins, and 
 become heirs of God and joint heirs with Christ. Then we can 
 say with the Apostle Paul: "He that spared not his own 
 Son, but delivered him up for us all, how shall he not with 
 him also freely give us all things?" ' "Nay, in all these things 
 we are more than conquerors through him that loved us."^ 
 
 The next day, April 23d, we started over the hills of 
 Galilee 'towards the Cana of the Bible, where Jesus per- 
 formed His first miracle, turning water into wine. Cana of 
 Galilee is a small town near Nazareth, where Jesus with all 
 His disciples and His mother were invited to a marriage. 
 They had no wine, and Jesus, knowing what was to come, 
 waited until they had set six water pots of stone, after the 
 manner of the purifying of the Jews. Then "Jesus saith unto 
 them. Fill the water pots with water," and they filled them to 
 the brim. Jesus told them to "draw out now," and when it 
 was drawn and tasted, it was wine. The ruler of the feast 
 saith, "Every man at the beginning doth set forth good 
 wine, but thou hast kept the good wine until now." This 
 1 Rom. 8:32. ''5101^18.37 
 
AGRICULTURE IN THE ORIENT. 353 
 
 miracle did Jesus in Cana of Galilee and then went to 
 Capernaum and from there to Jerusalem, for the Passover of 
 the Jews was at hand/ 
 
 The village of Nain, where the Lord Jesus raised the 
 widow's son and gave him to his mother, is located to 
 our left.^ 
 
 The valle}'' is cultivated in a very indifferent manner, 
 but crops, wheat principally, looked well. Many stones the 
 size of a peck and a half bushel measure are very thickly 
 scattered over the cultivated land; but they could easily be 
 removed by a little work. 
 
 Arabs plow with bullocks, while plenty of good horses 
 are seen on pasture. The plow is a very simple structure, 
 a bent beam or pole which extends forward to the cattle with 
 an upright piece perpendicularly attached to which is fast- 
 ened a kind of point that throws the ground on both sides. 
 In this country of systematic plowing, and farming, it would 
 be condemn'ed at once. The Arab walks along with one hand 
 to the plow. In the other he carries a whip with which to 
 drive the bullocks. This is the oriental way of plowing, be- 
 ing used in Palestine, Asia Minor, Egypt and India. 
 
 We returned to Haifa on the third day, in the evening, 
 where we expected to take the steamer for Beirut, We felt 
 grateful to God for what we had seen and heard. Often the 
 desire arose that we might have with us a number of our 
 beloved ones at home to help us store the information to be 
 gathered in these travels. 
 
 1 John 2. ^ Luke 7: 11—13. 
 
 ^^^^U.^<;^ 
 
 23 
 
CHAPTER XLi. 
 Beirut and Damascus. 
 
 BEIRUT — DILIGENCE — RAILROAD — LEBANON MOUNTAINS — MOUNT 
 
 HERMON— DRUSES— MASSACRING MARONITES— EUROPEAN 
 
 COMMISSION— DA MASCUS— HISTORY. 
 
 EIRUT is the seaport of Damascus, which is 
 about seventy miles distant, beyond the Leb- 
 anon mountains. It was one of the ancient 
 Phoenician towns where the so-called dwellers 
 on mountains had one of their strongholds. Berytus and 
 Byblus were their two towns located at the foot of Mt. 
 Lebanon. In 1840 the population of Beirut was only about 
 8,000; it is now about 80,000, chiefly Christians. The increase 
 is largely due to the settlement here of refugees after the 
 Mohammedan massacre of Christians in Damascus and Leb- 
 anon, in 1860. 
 
 Beirut is the most flourishing seaport on the coast of 
 Syria. It has a regular service of Egyptian, French, and 
 English steamers. A French company is constructing a 
 new railway from Beirut to Damascus. 
 
 American missionaries have established in Beirut the 
 Syrian Protestant College, and a large printing office in 
 which books are printed in Arabic and other languages. 
 English missionaries have an institution here in which to 
 train teachers for the Lebanon schools. 
 
LEBANON MOUNTAINS. 357 
 
 The railway from Beirut to Damascus was not yet com- 
 pleted, and the easiest way of making the trip was by the 
 " Diligence," a system operated by a French company, that 
 runs regular conveyances every day and night. Leaving 
 Beirut in the morning, we were at Damascus in the evening 
 of the same day. They have six horses attached to the 
 omnibus or hack, and drive at a recklessly high rate of speed, 
 changing horses about every five miles. The change is 
 quickly made, the driver giving the signal of his approach to 
 one of the stations with a series of blasts on a horn. The 
 fresh horses are made ready and brought out before our ar- 
 rival; then they are quickly attached and the journey is 
 resumed. Horses were changed twelve times between Beirut 
 and Damascus. 
 
 The applications for transportation are so numerous that 
 a passage must be procured a da}^ or two and sometimes a 
 week before going over the Lebanon and the Anti Lebanon 
 mountains. 
 
 It was from these mountains that the timber was brought 
 to Jerusalem for the construction of the temple. The tops 
 of the mountains were covered with snow, especially Mount 
 Hermon with its snowy peak 9,050 feet high. The Arabs say 
 that Lebanon carries winter upon its head, spring upon its 
 shoulders, summer in its bosom, while autumn lies sleeping 
 at its feet. 
 
 The range is composed of four distinct courses of mount- 
 ains, ris ing one above the other. The first, or lowest, is 
 fertile, and abounds with grain and fruit; the second is barren 
 and burned; the third enjoys perpetual spring, while the 
 fourth, or highest, is covered with perpetual snow, where 
 winter, with its cold and frost, continuously reigns, 
 
358 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Sannin, the most conspicuous summit, is about 8,500 
 feet high, and generally snowclad, while clear cold water 
 flows down its sides, very refreshing in a hot country. 
 Hence the Scripture comparison, " Will a man leave the snow 
 of Lebanon which cometh from the rock of the field, or shall 
 the cold flowing waters that come from another place be for- 
 saken?"' 
 
 Lebanon was famous in ancient times for its cedars, a 
 noble tree somewhat like the walnut, the poplar, and oak 
 in our country for size and usefulness. Some of these cedars 
 have been measured, showing forty-five feet in girth, while 
 their huge branches stretched out fifty-eight paces from side 
 to side. The wood is firm and very durable. It also has a 
 fragrant odor which seems to have been alluded to when 
 speaking of the smell of Lebanon.^ At present there are 
 only a few groves of the trees; in ancient times they were 
 far more abundant. 
 
 The inhabitants of Mount Lebanon are principally 
 Druses and Maronites. The belief of the Druses is that when 
 men die they are born again in a human birth according to 
 their merit. Unlike the Mohammedans, they do not pray, 
 this being regarded as an interference with the works of the 
 Creator. Mutual protection and hatred of all others is their 
 animating feeling. In some respects they resemble Moham- 
 medans. They never taste wine or tobacco, a practice which 
 would be a credit and a blessing to the people of this country. 
 Women are veiled; they are divorced by telling them three 
 times that they had better go back to their mothers. 
 
 Damascus, with Hebron, is claimed to be one of the oldest 
 cities on the earth, and dates back very near to the flood. It 
 is claimed by many to cover the site of the Garden of Eden. 
 
 1 Jer. 18:14. 2 Hos. 14:6. 
 
HISTORY OF DAMASCUS. 359 
 
 Jews, Christians and Moslems have different legends regard- 
 ing the origin of the city. 
 
 David conquered the town after a bloody war, as it was 
 allied whith his enemy the king of Zobah, and placed a gar- 
 rison in it.' Daring the reign of Solomon, an adventurer, 
 called Rezon, succeeded in making himself king of Damascus. 
 The history of the northern kingdom of Israel, as regards its 
 foreign policy, is almost exclusively occupied with its rela- 
 tion to Damascus.^ Several of these princes bore the name of 
 Benhadad. 
 
 The most formidable enemy of Israel was Hazael, whose 
 usurpation of the Syrian throne appears to have been pro- 
 moted by Elijah and Elisha.^ Owing to the hostilities between 
 the two Jewish kingdoms, the Damascenes could attack 
 Israel unopposed. Hazael devastated the country east of 
 Jordan, crossed that river, captured the town of Gath, and 
 made the king of Judah pay dearly for the immunity of Jeru- 
 salem from siege.* Benhadad III. , the son of Hazael, was 
 less successful than his father had been.^ Jeroboam II. suc- 
 ceeded in recapturing the former Jewish territory from 
 Damascus.® Shortly afterwards we find Pekah, king of Israel, 
 in alliance with Rezin of Damascus against Jotham, king of 
 Judah. They marched against Jerusalem, but had very little 
 success against Ahaz, although he was compelled to restore 
 the seaport of Elath on the Red Sea to the Syrians.' Ahaz 
 invited the Assyrians to aid him against the Syrians. These 
 allies subdued one after the other of the three kingdoms in 
 detail, the rulers of which should have united their forces 
 against the common enemy, 
 
 1 2 Sam. 8:5, 6. ^ i Kings 15 and 20. « 2 Kings 8:8—15. ♦ 2 Kings 12:18, 
 52Kings 13:25. "gKings 14:28. • 2Kings lti:5, (>. 
 
CHAPTER XLII. 
 Damascus. 
 
 POPULATION— NAAMAN— SAUL'S COKVERSION— STREET CALLED 
 
 STRAIGHT — HOUSE OF ANANIAS— TOMB OF ST. GEORGE 
 
 — WINDOW FROM WHICH PAUL ESCAPED— VISITORS 
 
 IN DAMASCUS— DOGS— MONEYS— OVER THE 
 
 LEBANON MOUNTAINS BY MOON 
 
 LIGHT — TURKISH FUNERAL. 
 
 T is extremely difficult to estimate the popula- 
 tion of Damascus, but according to the 
 government statistics in 1888, there were 
 120,750 inhabitants. The Moslems have in all 
 248 mosques and schools. 
 
 Damascus is noted for its rivers and streams from the 
 mountains. It was from here that Naaman went to Elisha. 
 Naaman was a great man and very honorable, but he was a 
 leper. The little maid that was taken captive in the land of 
 Israel, and waited on Naaman's wife, said unto her mistress, 
 "Would God my lord were with the prophet that is in 
 Samaria! for he would recover him of his leprosy." So Naa- 
 man, the captain of the host, went, and took with him a great 
 price to pay for the service of the prophet. Undoubtedly he 
 expected a great reception and much favor; but he was 
 disappointed. Elisha sent a messenger unto him, saying, 
 "Go and wash in Jordan seven times." Naaman was wroth 
 and said, "Are not Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, 
 better than all the waters of Israel? may I not wash in them 
 
HISTORY OF TAMASCUS. 363 
 
 and be clean? So he turned and went away in a ra^e." But 
 his servants reasoned with him and he went and washed ac- 
 cording as the prophet had told him and he was healed.' 
 So all of us, by coming as the Lord requires, may be healed 
 from the leprosy of sin. 
 
 It was to Damascus that Saul came to take prisoners all 
 such that professed to be followers of the Lord Jesus Christ. 
 As we were going around visiting these different places of 
 interest we were taken to the supposed place according to 
 tradition where Saul was struck down with the great light. ^ 
 It was about half a mile beyond the old walls. We also 
 went through the street called "Straight,"' and indeed this 
 street has the proper name as it is very straight and prin- 
 cipally under roof, or covered over with arches made of 
 timber and straw or thatch. The spot was shown to us 
 where tradition locates the site of the house of Ananias, 
 where the Lord appeared to him in a dream, saying that he 
 should go to the street called Straight, to the house of 
 Judas, and inquire "for one called Saul, of Tarsus: for, behold, 
 he prayeth." Ananias came and put his hands on Saul, that 
 he might receive his sight. 
 
 We were led to the tomb of St. George, which is much 
 revered by the Christians. This saint is said to have assisted 
 St. Paul to escape from Damascus, and the window above 
 the Turkish wall is still pointed out where the apostle was 
 let down in a basket by night.* 
 
 Many curious things are to be seen in the streets of 
 Damascus. Donkeys and camels frequently crowd the way, 
 while numerous hack drivers and dragomen offering their 
 services are met on all sides. 
 
 12 Kings 5. ^ Acts 9:3, » Acts 9: 11. * Acts 9:25. 
 
364 
 
 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 One peculiar thing here in Damascus, as in all other 
 oriental towns, is the large number of dogs on the streets. 
 In front of the hotel eleven were counted at one time, and, 
 in going through the town, at another place where the 
 street makes a curve thirty-five were counted, and by going 
 a little further fifty dogs of all sizes, colors, descriptions and 
 ages were seen, nearly all having the appearance of being 
 half starved. These dogs have no owners and no homes bu^t 
 are simply roving round town in search of food, and lying 
 around in the sunshine in front of some of the shops and 
 business houses, while pedestrians must either go around or 
 step over them, without disturbing them in the least. Oc- 
 casionally when one is accidentally trampled upon you hear a 
 growl, and at times they are engaged in fighting each other. 
 On the whole, this is a very unpleasant thing with which 
 strangers have to contend. In Palestine, as in India, dogs 
 are considered sacred to some extent. 
 
 It is no wonder the Scriptures refer so often to dogs. 
 As in the case of the poor man Lazarus, "moreover the dogs 
 came and licked his sores." They are also referred to tn 
 terms of abomination and reproach, and as enemies, im- 
 prudent and false. The apostle admonishes,^ "Beware of 
 dogs," as false teachers, ignorant and dumb, sleeping, ly- 
 ing down, loving to slumber. Isaiah speaks of th^m as 
 "greedy dogs which can never have enough." ^ 
 
 Through the entire dominion of Turkey the value of 
 money is very deceptive as there are so many different 
 kinds in circulation and it varies in value at almost every 
 point we visited- Cairo, Joppa, Jerusalem, Haifa, Beirut and 
 Damascus. While there are a number of money changers in 
 1 Phil. 3:2. ^Isa. 56:11, 
 
FKOM DAMASCUS TO BEIE-UT. 
 
 865 
 
 all these towns, yet many, if possible, will take advantage 
 of travelers. The principal moneys are given in the list of 
 money tables in this book; but there are many more in cir- 
 calation not mentioned. Here English, French, Swiss and 
 Italian money is used at its current rates of exchange. 
 
 As we were somewhat tired on our arrival at Damascus, 
 a part of our two weeks' s,ta.j at this place was spent in 
 resting. The day hack to Beirut being full, it was neces- 
 sary for us to take the night mail, which meant a ride of 
 
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 (Original Photo.) 
 A TUIiKISH FUNERAL PKOCESSION. 
 
 about seventy miles over the Lebanon mountains by moon- 
 light. The nights arc chilly, especially in the spring, Qin 
 consequence of the snow on the mountains. 
 
 On Sunday, May 5th, at Beirut, we attended a Turkish 
 funeral of high order. The procession, which consisted ex- 
 clusively of men, no women being seen, halted at a large 
 church or mosque, and the corpse was taken inside, where 
 burning lights were placed all around the casket. Here a 
 
m 
 
 AEOtJ:ND THE GLOKE. 
 
 Greek service was held, the priest burning incense. Many 
 of the spectators exhibited anything but a reverential man- 
 ner. After the services in the church, the corpse was put 
 into a hearse similar to those in our country, and taken to 
 the place of burial. The horses were all covered with 
 blankets up to their ears, and each of them was led by a 
 footman. No tears were shed by the friends, but a few of 
 those in the rear showed expressions of grief. 
 
 Many peculiar looking Jews are seen all through the 
 Holy Lands, with their black wooly hats and a long curl of 
 hair hanging down at each side of their heads, in front of the 
 ears. 
 
 
 SAUL OF TARSUS STRUCK WITH THE GREAT LIGHT. 
 
CHAPTER XLIII. 
 Beirut to Smyrna and Ephesus. 
 
 TRIPOLI — ORANGE MART — ISLAND OF CYPRUS — LARNAKA — SIMASOL 
 
 —MAN OVERBOARD— ISLAND OF RHODES— CARRYING THEIR 
 
 BEDS— ISLAND OF CHIOS — SMYRNA — BY TRAIN 
 
 TO EPHESUS. 
 
 OUR hours after leaving Beirut on the steamship 
 Achille, we reached Tripoli, a town of about 
 17,000 inhabitants where the steamer stopped 
 for a time to load and unload freight. The 
 weather was warm and the sea calm, while the mountains in 
 the distance were seen to be covered with snow. In the val- 
 ley there is an abundance of fruit grown, such as lemons, 
 oranges, etc. Here 2,000 boxes of oranges were taken on 
 board and it was thought that each box contained about 
 two bushels. 
 
 Our next objective point was the island of Cyprus. 
 We arrived at the town of Larnaka, and stopped a short 
 time. Cyprus is one of the largest islands in the Mediter- 
 ranean. It is about liO miles long, and from five to fifty 
 broad. It lies in the east of the Mediterranean. In ancient 
 times it was noted for its copper, which is named after the 
 island. 
 
 When Paul and Barnabas were living at Antioch, they 
 were appointed to be the first Christian missionaries to the 
 heathen. They went first to Cyprus, to which place Barnabas 
 
368 
 
 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 belonged, landing at Salamis, a large city on the east of the 
 island. A great many Jews lived at Salamis, and the apostles 
 preached in their synagogues. They then went preaching all 
 through the island, till they came to Paphos. Near this 
 place stood the temple of Venus, the goddess of love. This 
 
 SEAPORT OF SMYRNA. 
 
 {Original Photo.) 
 
 temple was so celebrated that it was sometimes called the 
 " Paphian Goddess," her priestesses were prostitutes. 
 
 The Roman governor, whose name was Sergius Paulus, 
 lived at Paphos. He was not satisfied with the false gods of 
 
(Original I'lwtu.) 
 THE RUINS OF THE PRISON OF ST. PAUL, EPHESUS. 
 
 "The keynote of life's harmony is sacrifice." 
 
 What though on peril's front you stand ? 
 What though through lone and lonely ways, 
 
 With dusty feet and horny hands. 
 You toil unfriended all the days, 
 And die at last with man's dispraise ? 
 
 Would you have chosen ease, and so 
 Have shunned the fight ? God honored you 
 
 With trust of weighty works. And O, 
 The Captain of the heavens knew 
 His trusted soldier would prove true. 
 
 — Joaquin Miller. 
 
 24 
 
CYPEUS. 371 
 
 his country, and wished to learn the truth. When he heard 
 of the preaching of Paul and Barnabas, he sent for them. A 
 sorcerer, called Elymas, tried to withstand the apostles, but 
 he was struck blind. ^ 
 
 The last mention of Cyprus in the New Testament is in 
 connection with Paul's voyage to Rome. He sailed under 
 Cyprus.^ This island now belongs to Turkey, but the admin- 
 istration of public affairs is in the hands of the British 
 government. 
 
 Sailing along Cyprus we soon reached another town 
 called Simasol. Near this town the country is charming, but 
 viewed from the sea it looks mountainous. At this place an 
 aged man fell overboard while being transferred to a smaller 
 boat. It seemed for a time that he would surely be drowned, 
 but by his own heroic struggles and the assistance of others, 
 he was finally rescued. The poor man was completely 
 exhausted and seemed very grateful for the aid he had 
 received. 
 
 Out at sea again, sailing toward the island of Rhodes. 
 The morning of May 9th was pleasant, and we gave to God 
 all the honor for our safety and His care for us while going 
 from one point of Bible interest to another. There were sev- 
 eral other Americans aboard including Gen. J. C. Smith and 
 daughter, of Chicago, 111., and Mr. Gibson from Georgia, 
 U. S. A. We sailed through the Grecian archipelago, where 
 many islands were seen on either side. The eastern side 
 belongs to Asia Minor, and the western side to Europe. 
 
 On the ship there were many that carried their beds 
 with them. It is the custom among many in the Orient for 
 each one to carry his own bed, consisting of a blanket or two; 
 
 1 Acts 13:4—13. ^ Acts 27:4. 
 
372 AROUi^D THE GLoM. 
 
 some carry only pillows to lay their heads upon. This is 
 doubtless what is meant when Jesus commanded certain ones 
 to "take up thy bed and walk." The customs were not the 
 same, however, in the time of Christ as they are in our 
 country nor as they are in that country at the present time. 
 Passing on past the island of Rhodes without stopping 
 we arrived at the island of Chios, ^ and in about six hours 
 more we arrived at Smyrna, Asia Minor, the location of one 
 of the seven churches.^ 
 
 Smyrna is the largest city in Asia Minor. Christianity 
 was early planted here and Polycarp, a disciple of John, and 
 bishop of Smyrna, suffered martyrdom about 166 A. D. 
 Smyrna is a flourishing commercial city, with many foreign 
 merchants. Christians are so numerous that the Turks call 
 it "infidel Smyrna." 
 
 About the year 96 A. D., there was a church at this 
 place and God was so pleased with its faithfulness that the 
 angel spoke to His servant John, on the island, and said, 
 write: "I know thy works, and tribulation, and poverty, 
 (but thou art rich)." They were poor, stripped, perhaps, of 
 all temporal possessions, because in their attachment to the 
 gospel, yet rich in faith in the kingdom of Christ; and "I 
 know the blasphemy of them which say they are Jews, and 
 are not, but are the synagogue of Satan. Fear none of those 
 things which thou shalt suffer: behold, the devil shall cast some 
 of you into prison, that ye may be tried; and ye shall have 
 tribulation ten days: be thou faithful unto death, and 1 will 
 give thee a crown of life." ^ 
 
 From here we went to Ephesus, about two hours ride 
 from Smyrna, on the railroad. There is a beautiful country 
 
 'Acts 20:25. - llev. 2:8. Uiev. 2:8— 10. 
 
EPHESUS. 
 
 373 
 
 between Smyrna and Ephesus — hills and valleys and beau- 
 tiful landscapes on all sides with here and there ruins of 
 castles and forts, and the ruins of ancient aqueducts running 
 for miles supported by immense pillars of stone. This being 
 my forty-second birthday made it specially interesting to me 
 to visit the ruins of this ancient city. 
 
 {Original Photo.] 
 
 RUINS OF THE AQI'EDX^CT, EPHESUS. 
 
CHAPTEK XLIV. 
 Ephesus. 
 
 TEMPLE OF DIANA — PAUL IN EPHESUS — HOME OF ST. JOHN — TOMB 
 
 OF ST, LUKE — RUINS OF MARBLE — MODERN EPHESUS 
 
 — LEAVING FOR GREECE. 
 
 HE most celebrated temple in ancient times was 
 that of Diana, or Artemis, at Ephesus. The 
 city stood on a hill side, sloping gradually 
 into a plain not far from the seacoast. The 
 temple was built of white marble, so bright as to dazzle the 
 eye. It was 425 feet in length, 220 feet broad and sup- 
 ported by 127 columns. The temple was filled with most 
 beautiful statues and pictures. 
 
 The first temple was destroyed by fire at the hands of a 
 man named Eratostratus, on the same night on which Alexan- 
 der the Great was born (356 B. C). When it was asked why 
 the goddess allowed such a famous temple to be destroyed, 
 it was given out that she was so busily engaged with the 
 mother of Alexander, aiding in bringing her son into the 
 world, that she had no time or thought for anything else. 
 
 Alexander offered to rebuild the temple, if he were al- 
 lowed to inscribe his name on the front, but the Ephesians 
 refused. With the help of all the states of Asia Minor, they 
 built a temple still more magnificent than that which had 
 been destroyed. It was decorated with gold, jewels and 
 precious stones and the roof was supported with columns of 
 
PAUL IN EPHESUS. 375 
 
 green jasper. The second temple was destroyed by the 
 Goths, 260 A. D. 
 
 The apostle Paul came to Ephesus when the temple was 
 in all its glory, and preached for about three years. There 
 were many pretended magicians in the city. They said that 
 certain words, called Ephesian letters, copied from the image 
 of the goddess, would charm away evil spirits, heal diseases 
 and do other wonderful things. Some of these magicians 
 came to Paul confessing the tricks they had played and 
 burned their books of charms in the streets before all the 
 people. Had they decided to dispose of them by sale, they 
 might have received 50,000 pieces of silver for them.^ 
 
 Once a year a great feast was held in honor of the god- 
 dess, and people flocked to Ephesus from all parts to join in 
 it. Strangers often bought small silver models of the temple 
 with the idol inside. They looked upon these as charms, able 
 to keep them from harm and bring good fortune. The sale 
 of these things brought great gain to the silversmiths of 
 Ephesus. 
 
 Demetrius, a silversmith, was afraid that he would lose 
 his business through Paul's preaching. He persuaded the 
 silversmiths to get up a cry, ' 'Great is Diana of the Ephesians. " 
 The whole city was in an uproar. The services of the chief 
 magistrates were required in quieting the people, telling them 
 that there was no need of their out cry, for every one knew 
 that Diana was great. ^ Paul afterwards left to visit other 
 churches.^ 
 
 When Paul was a prisoner at Rome, he wrote a beauti- 
 ful letter to the Ephesian Christians which is recorded in 
 the New Testament. He thanked God that they who were 
 
 1 Acts 19: 19. - Acts 19: -^4— 41. ' Acts 20: 1, 
 
376 
 
 AROUl^D THE GLOBE. 
 
 once in darkness were now in light in the Lord. They 
 were to walk as children of light, giving up all their 
 former evil doings. 
 
 There is not now throughout the whole world a single 
 worshiper of the goddess "Diana" or of the image which is 
 said to have fallen down from heaven. 
 
 The apostle John, the beloved disciple of Jesus, lived 
 at Ephesus, both before his banishment to the island of 
 
 {Original Photo). 
 
 RUINS IN EPHESUS. 
 
 Patmos and after his release, St. Luke also lived at Ephe- 
 sus and died there, and his tomb is to be seen at the present 
 day among the ruins. (See illus., p. 77.) 
 
 There were seven churches in the Roman province of 
 Asia to which John, at the command of Jesus, wrote an 
 
EETURNING TO SMYRNA. 379 
 
 epistle or letter.' He first addressed the "angel," or 
 minister, of the church at Ephesus. The church at Ephesus 
 was in good standing; the}' had borne, and had patience, 
 and for Jesus' sake had labored and had not fainted, and 
 yet there was something wrong. "I have somewhat 
 against thee, because thou hast left thy first love." And the 
 warning was: "Remember therefore from whence thou art 
 fallen, and repent, and do the first works; or else I will 
 come unto thee quickly, and will remove thy candlestick out 
 of his place, except thou repent."^ "To him that overcometh 
 will I give to eat of the tree of life, which is in the midst 
 of the paradise of God."^ 
 
 To-day there is not one in Ephesus to read the epistle to 
 them that was written for them by the apostle. She lost her 
 first love, and her candlestick was removed forever. Ephe- 
 sus is a heap of ruins of the finest kind of building material. 
 The modern village consists of a few small huts made of the 
 poorest material in the midst of the very best with which 
 to construct houses, as the illustration shows. (See illus., 
 p.377.) 
 
 The country is hilly and the valleys very fertile. The 
 sun shone very warmly and all were about exhausted when 
 we returned to the station. Accommodations at the station 
 are very poor. 
 
 We returned to Smyrna which is a beautiful city. Much 
 of the material and marble to build it has been brought 
 from the ruins of Ephesus. Its population is about 300,000 
 souls, comprising people of all nationalities. It has a tine 
 seaport, and many war ships are anchored in the harbor. 
 We visited Smyrna, and Ephesus with its ruins, and many 
 
 1 Rev. 1: 11. - Rev. 2i:4, 5, ' Rev. 2:7. 
 
380 
 
 AKOUND tup: GL015E. 
 
 points of interest; but we concluded to leave although much 
 more time could have been profitably spent in Asia Minor 
 visiting Pergamos, Thyatira, Sardis, Philadelphia and Laod- 
 icea, the others of the seven churches. As the way is hard 
 and traveling very laborious in connection with the expense, 
 wo bid adieu to this ancient country of Bible interest. 
 
 RUINS OF THE 'lllKATKE AT EPIIESI'S. (Original Photo) 
 
 It was a beautiful morning in May and the sea was very 
 calm when at 9:30 we went aboard the ship and moved out 
 into the deep. We sailed across the straits which are 
 dotted with small islands which make very attractive scenery. 
 
CHAPTER XLV. 
 Athens, Greece. 
 
 PAUL IN ATHENS — MARS HILL — THE UNKNOWN GOD — NEW 
 DOCTRINE— PAUL'S SUCCESS. 
 
 THENS is situated in the southern part of 
 Greece, about three miles from the seacoast 
 and is reached by train, going through a 
 splendid country along the sea. The city 
 stands on a plain, but there are four small hills all of which 
 formed part of the city. One of the hills, called the Acrop- 
 olis or citadel, is a square craggy rock, on which stood the 
 Parthenon, the famous temple of Athena, the goddess sup- 
 posed to watch over the city. It was built of white marble. 
 The image of the goddess, celebrated for its size and beauty, 
 was made of ivory and gold. Not far from the Acropolis is 
 another rock called " Mars Hill," where important cases were 
 tried by judges. The plain below was covered with houses, 
 temples, and other public buildings. Statues everywhere 
 met the eye. 
 
 Athens was noted for its idlers. Both the people of the 
 city and strangers who came to it spent their time' in noth- 
 ing else save either telling or hearing of something new. The 
 chief place of resort was the market place, a square, sur- 
 rounded with temples and shady porticoes. Near it were 
 some famous schools of philosophy. 
 
382 
 
 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Paul was alone in Athens. He went through the city 
 from street to street. His attention was chiefly taken up 
 with the numerous temples and images. His spirit was 
 stirred within him when he saw that the city was wholly 
 given to idolatry.' Athens was so full of idols that it was 
 said to be easier to find a god in it than to find a man. He 
 felt sad that men should forget their great Creator, and give 
 the honor due Him to the works of their own hands. 
 
 Paul went first to the Jews who were in the city, and 
 reasoned with them in their synagogue or church, but his 
 chief work was in the market place, where he went every day 
 to speak with any who were willing to hear what he had to 
 say. Among those whom he met were two classes of Athen- 
 ian philosophers from the schools near at hand. One class, 
 called Epicureans, took their name from Epicurus, who lived 
 more than 300 years before Paul visited Athens. Epicurus 
 taught that the world was not made by a Creator, and that 
 
 1 Acts 17:16. 
 
THE STOICS. 
 
 883 
 
 pleasure is the chief good. He himself was much better than 
 his followers, whose motto, in later years, may be said to 
 have been, "Let us eat and drink for to-morrow we die." 
 
 The Stoics were the other class. Their name is from 
 stoa^ a porch, in which Zeno, their founder, first taught. 
 Virtue was held to be the highest good, and they pretended 
 to be indifferent alike to pleasure and pain. Many of them, 
 however, were hypocrites, indulging in vice, and some were 
 
 frricri'tltti PfuirOJ 
 
 MARS HILL, ATHENS. 
 
 tempted to suicide. Paul did not talk with the philosophers 
 about the questions which they were fond of discussing, but 
 about Jesus and the resurrection from the dead. The feel- 
 ings thus excited were mingled with curiosity and contempt. 
 Paul seemed to them as putting forth strange gods, a mere 
 "seed picker," one who picks up scraps of knowledge which 
 he does not understand. As far as they could make out, Paul 
 
384 AllOUNi) THE GLOBfi. 
 
 appeared to be preaching a new religion. As it was difficult 
 to hear in the crowd, they proposed to go to Mars Hill, 
 close at hand. 
 
 They went up from the market place by some steps, to 
 the top of the rock, where there was a level spot encircled 
 by a stone bench. Some of Paul's hearers sat, others stood 
 around him. The blue sky was above his head, the earth 
 under his feet and in front was the Acropolis, crowned with 
 temples. Stretching out his hand, Paul spoke as follows: 
 "Ye men of Athens, I perceive that in all things ye are too 
 superstitious. For as I passed by, and beheld your devotions, 
 I found an altar with this inscription. To the unknown God. 
 Whom therefore ye ignorantly worship, him declare I unto 
 you, etc.," as found in Acts 17:22—31. 
 
 Like the greatest of the Greek orators, Paul began with, 
 "Yemen of Athens." He acknowledged that they were 
 religious. The Athenians confessed by the inscription on 
 the altar that there was a God whom they did not know. He 
 was the God whom Paul preached. Pointing, perhaps, to 
 the splendid Parthenon, Paul taught that God dwells not in 
 temples made with hands; He is the great Creator of all 
 things, and does not need anything from us. 
 
 The Athenians claimed to have sprung from the earth. 
 Paul taught, on the contrary, that all men were equally made 
 by God. He has given them power to find Him though they 
 have but dimly groped after Him in the darkness. In sup- 
 port of what he said, Paul made a well known quotation from 
 a Greek poet, "For we are also His offspring." The Athen- 
 ians were proud of the beautiful statues of their gods, but 
 Paul declared that the Godhead is not like to gold, silver or 
 stone, formed into images. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 385 
 
 After teaching the " Fatherhood of God," and the 
 "Brotherhood of Man," Paul said that the time of ignorance 
 God had overlooked, but that now He commanded all men 
 everywhere to repent. He also spoke of a coming judgment, 
 of which God had given a pledge by raising from the dead 
 the ordained judge, the Lord Jesus Christ. He, before 
 whom we must appear at the last day, now invites us to come 
 
 I Original I'hoio.) 
 
 iEMFLK OF ATHKNA. 
 
 to Him as our Savior. When Paul spoke of the resurrection, 
 some, probably the Epicureans, broke into open mocking, 
 while others, probably the Stoics, with a show of politeness 
 said, "We will hear thee concerning this yet again." 
 
 Still some believed and were baptized. Among them 
 was Dionysius, one of the judges of the court of Areopagus, 
 a woman named Damaris, and others with them. It must 
 have been a great trial to take this bold step in a city wholly 
 
 25 
 
386 
 
 AlfeOUKD THE GLOBE. 
 
 given to idolatry; but they sought the truth, and were not 
 content simply to walk according to custom. 
 
 Although Paul never again visited Athens, a Christian 
 church was established which afterward produced some emi- 
 nent men. The temple of Athena was converted into a place 
 of worship for the One True God, and on Mars Hill there now 
 stands a church, called after Dionysius. 
 
 (Original Photo. 
 A GRECIAN COSTUME, 
 
CHAPTER XL VI. 
 
 Athens and Corinth. 
 
 GRECIAN FUNERAL — PRIEST BEGGING ALMS — KING'S GARDENS AND 
 
 PALACE — TOUR TO CORINTH— CORINTHIAN CANAL — 
 
 PAUL AT CORINTH. 
 
 HILE attending a Grecian funeral in Athens 
 we noticed many things in their customs that 
 dijffer from those we have in this country; 
 and yet it is interesting to know that we have 
 adopted many of the Greek customs as our own. 
 
 On this occasion a young man led the procession, carry- 
 ing the lid of the coffin, holding it erect. He was followed 
 by a number of boys with banners, after which came about 
 a dozen priests with their long garments. Following these 
 was the coffin, borne by' six men, and containing the corpse 
 which was exposed to view. Then came the friends in car- 
 riages, while in the rear was the funeral car drawn by four 
 black horses, each horse covered with a mourning blanket, 
 and led by a man. These men, including the one sitting on the 
 car, all wore high silk hats. 
 
 Thus the procession left the house of the deceased, pro- 
 ceeding through the streets of Athens to the church, a fine 
 structure. The king and queen were present at the funeral 
 and occupied seats in their special enclosure by the side of the 
 pulpit and the patriarch. After the ceremony was performed, 
 the procession left the church in the same manner as it had 
 come. 
 
388 
 
 AROtTND THE GLOM. 
 
 Dr. Becker, in 
 h i s Charades, 
 oives an e x- 
 haustive sketch 
 of Greek cus- 
 toms in funerals. 
 It is interesting 
 to observe how 
 many of these 
 we have adopted 
 in America, such 
 as the anointing 
 and washing of 
 the body and the 
 use of the white 
 shroud, the em- 
 ployment of gar- 
 lands of flowers, 
 the laying out 
 of the dead and 
 the attendance 
 of the relatives 
 and friends, the burial on the third day, the procession fol- 
 lowing the bier, which is borne by relatives or friends, 
 and the final burying in a wooden or stone coffin. But we 
 have Christianized the ordinary Greek ceremonies in this 
 country by omitting a part of what they regard as essential. 
 
 We noticed at the outside of a church door an aged 
 priest wearing his priestly garments, leaning on his crutches, 
 begging alms of those who went in and out. Such men, who 
 have served in the churches and given their best days to the 
 
 [Frijiii Pluito.) 
 
 (tRecian costume and uniform. 
 
ATHENS.— THE KING'S PALACE. 
 
 389 
 
 Lord and His cause, ought not to be brought where they 
 bring disgrace upon the cause, by being neglected on the 
 part of the Christian church. 
 
 We visited the king's gardens and went through the 
 palace. On entering the grounds and coming towards the 
 palace, one of the king's stewards came and after the drago- 
 man had introduced us we were taken through the palace. 
 
 The first door we entered brought us into a large hall, 
 where we turned to our left passing through double doors 
 that opened at the foot of a grand stairway leading to the 
 second floor. 
 As we came 
 to the top of 
 the stairs there 
 were a number 
 of ca n n o n s 
 pointing d i - 
 rectly toward 
 us, seemingly 
 daring the en- 
 emy. Passing 
 through an- 
 other door we 
 came into a 
 room where the 
 banners and 
 flags were kept 
 that had passed 
 through all 
 their battles ^^___, ^ _ 
 
 and wflrs! (Original Photo.\ 
 
 awu vyaio, GPECIAN LADY'S COSTUME. 
 
390 
 
 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Here we were told to halt and the king's servant with- 
 drew, as he was dressed in a citizen's costume and dared not 
 appear without wearing the costume of the king's servants 
 and officials. The king's guards and those around the palace 
 all wear the national costume, which is shown" in the 
 illustration. 
 
 After a few minutes he returned, dressed in his kingly 
 garment or uniform which was as follows: Trousers black, 
 
 {Original Photo.) 
 
 RUINS OF THE ACROPOLIS. 
 
 coat black, Prince Albert cut, but short in front, trimmed 
 with black braid, the vest was red; the whole made a fine 
 appearance. Thus attired he led us on through the banquet 
 halls of immense size, grandly finished and furnished, and 
 thence to the reception room. 
 
 In this department there were some very fine seats. The 
 throne consists of an elevation or rostrum about ten feet 
 
CORINTH. 391 
 
 square, two steps high and very finely carpeted, on which 
 there is an elegant chair for the king; a canopy over the seat 
 makes a most imposing appearance. Yet this is simply noth- 
 ing to be compared with the throne of the Great King of all 
 the earth, before whom all must appear. May the Lord grant 
 to all the dear readers that blessed reception: "Come, ye 
 blessed of my Father, inherit the kingdom prepared for you." 
 
 A ride of about three hours on the train brought us to 
 Corinth. A part of the country through which we went 
 is very barren, while the remaining portion is cultivated. 
 Many vineyards are seen all through Greece. 
 
 We crossed the Corinth canal, which connects the sea 
 with the Gulf of Corinth. This is a masterly piece of work 
 cut through the solid rock. The modern town of Corinth is 
 about two miles from the ancient ruins. 
 
 Paul left Athens and came to Corinth perhaps by very 
 nearly the same route that we took. Corinth was at that 
 time a wealthy city and the capital of Greece, located between 
 two seas. The people were very fond of pleasure. There 
 was a famous temple to Venus with many priestesses. At 
 Corinth Paul found lodging with a Jew, called Aquila, who, 
 with his wife, Priscilla, had come from Italy. The emperor 
 had ordered all Jews to leave Rome, because they were so 
 often making disturbances. One reason why Paul went to 
 them was because they were tent-makers like himself, and 
 he worked with them for his daily bread. It is wrong to live 
 in idleness, if we are able to work. Paul says: "If any 
 would not work, neither should he eat."^ 
 
 The unbelieving Jews were so enraged at seeing numbers 
 become Christians that Paul feared lest he should be beateio. 
 
 1 2 Thess, 3: 10. 
 
392 
 
 akol:nd the globe. 
 
 and imprisoned. God comforted him in a dream at night. 
 He said to Paul: "Be not afraid, bat speak, and hold not thy 
 peace: for I am with thee, and no man shall set on thee to 
 hurt thee, for I have much people in this city."' This en- 
 couraged Paul, so that he stayed more than a year longer in 
 Corinth, and went on teaching. 
 
 RUINS OF THE ACROPOLIS. 
 
 {Original Photo.) 
 
 After this a new governor named Gallio came to Corinth, 
 and the Jews seized Paul and dragged him before the 
 governor. "What has he done?" asked Gallio. 
 
 The Jews answered: "He has been teaching us to wor- 
 ship God in a wrong way." Paul was just going to defend 
 himself when Gallio said to the Jews, "If this man had done 
 anything wicked, I would have judged him; but as it is only 
 a question of words, I will not hear you." Then he drove 
 them away from the court. Upon this the Greeks took Sos- 
 
 1 Acts 18:9, 10. 
 
PAUL LEAVING CORINTH. 
 
 393 
 
 thenes, the chief ruler of the synagogue, and beat him even 
 before the judgment seat, but Gallio cared for none of these 
 things.' 
 
 About a month later, Paul took leave of the brethren, 
 and sailed for Syria. He afterwards wrote two long letters 
 to the Christians in Corinth. 
 
 1 ActsJlS. 
 
CHAPTER XL VII. 
 
 From Corinth to Naples, Italy, 
 harvest in greece— pa tres— business houses open on sunday 
 
 — A FIGHT — OUT ON THE DEEP — AMERICAN PARTY — ISLAND 
 COFU— BRINDISI, ITALY — COUNTRY — NAPLES- 
 MOUNT VESUVIUS— POMPEII — ELECTION — 
 FUNERAL PROCESSION— TOUR 
 TO ROME. 
 
 EAVING Corinth by train we arrived at Patres, 
 one of the main seaports of Greece, in about 
 four hours. We traveled through a fine 
 country along the sea and the farmers were in 
 the midst of harvest, reaping their wheat and oats with sickles, 
 as many as one dozen following each other, and binding their 
 sheaves as they cut them. Many vineyards were also seen. 
 The climate is fine and the sea breeze is very invigorating. 
 Sunday, May 29th. All business houses are open and no 
 church bells are heard, but crowds of people are on the 
 streets, all intent upon amusement. 
 
 Just as we were to go aboard the ship, there was a great 
 excitement and it was reported that four Greeks had fought 
 with knives and that all were stabbed and one killed. The 
 police, followed by a large crowd, took them away to prison. 
 O, how sad to see that sin and vice does so abound every- 
 where one goes! 
 
BEINDISI, ITALY. 395 
 
 Soon we were on the ship and met with several young 
 gentlemen from America, one from Ohio, one from Pennsyl- 
 vania and one from Michigan. Two of them were young 
 ministers visiting Bible points of interest, and they were all 
 having a pleasant time together. 
 
 We soon sailed for Brindisi, Italy. The next day we 
 arrived at the island of Cofu, belonging to Greece and 
 formerly in the possession of the English. The weather was 
 very pleasant and the sea calm. We arrived at Brindisi 
 where we had longed to be on account of our baggage having 
 been forwarded to that place. Fortune favored us and we 
 found all in a proper condition, having made the long journey 
 from Yokohama, Japan, to Brindisi, Italy, in the most satis- 
 factory manner, for which the Lord received all honor. Here 
 our steamship ticket expired. We felt consoled that the 
 longest sea voyages were over and that now we were 
 drawing towards home. 
 
 Brindisi is located on the eastern coast of Italy and is the 
 principal Mediterranean seaport, and, as usual in all seaports, 
 there is much vice and sin here. Boys from eight to ten 
 years old were staggering around on the streets in a beastly 
 state of intoxication. In the evening the streets are crowded 
 with people. While they have police officers they also have 
 soldiers who march through the streets to preserve order. 
 
 Leaving for Naples, the western seaport, nigh to Puteoli 
 where the apostle Paul landed, a distance of about ten hours' 
 ride by train, we passed through some very fine country, 
 highly cultivated, yet much of it very mountainous. Many 
 tunnels were passed through. We arrived at Naples in the 
 evening and were soon ensconced at a good hotel with our 
 friends, Messrs. Fultz and Jacobs, from America. 
 
396 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Naples and Vesuvius. 
 
 Naples is a magnificent city located a short distance from 
 Mount Vesuvius and not far from Pompeii. The sky is gen- 
 erally clear, and the climate temperate and pleasant. 
 Through the country, grain, the olive and grapes are the 
 principal agricultural productions. Cattle are raised in large 
 numbers. 
 
 Sunday, May 26th, was election day at this place and no 
 observance of Sunday was noticeable and most of the people 
 were out in the parks. A funeral procession passed which 
 was as follows: six men carrying on their heads a kind of 
 platform about eight feet wide by ten feet long. Over this 
 platform hung a large black cloth trimmed in gold embroid- 
 ery, the cloth hanging down about four feet below the plat- 
 form all around. On each side were three men holding the 
 cloth as it hung down; making in all twelve men, all wearing 
 peculiar garments and having their faces covered with white 
 cloths. On the platform stood the casket finished in gold. 
 About a dozen carriages followed in the procession. 
 
 A visit to Mount Vesuvius, a distance of about thirty 
 minutes by train, was made by three of us and a dragoman. 
 This proved to be one of the hardest days of our entire tour. 
 It is almost impossible to give a description of the great 
 volcano. It is about 4,000 feet high and covers an area of 
 about two square miles. It appears as though the whole 
 mountain were on fire as the heat and steam escape from the 
 stones and cracks when the lava runs out. 
 
 Ascending the mountain and getting above the clouds, 
 with the sea far below us, we saw a wonderful sight. Hear- 
 ing the rumbling beneath us and the thundering above us, 
 we were almost terrified, and felt as though we were on for* 
 
MOUNT VESUVIUS. 
 
 399' 
 
 bidden grounds. At places the stones were so hot that yon 
 could not sit on them, while the lava came dowa all around 
 us whenever the crater discharged. In the center, the crater 
 was probably one hundred feet high . Around it was a gulf 
 perhaps fifty feet deep and one hundred feet wide which fed 
 the crater. About every five or ten minutes the rumbling 
 and thundering began and a wonderful explosion took place 
 when lava was thrown hundreds of feet high. As it came 
 
 ;^S?^^> 
 
 (Original Photo.) 
 NAPLES, ITALY, AND MOUNT VESUVIUS. 
 
 down on the crater and scattered all around, it made a noise 
 as though car loads of stone were being dumped. O, what a 
 terrible place this is; and yet so many visit it. 
 
 In noticing the amount of water on the face of the earth 
 it seems as though it was but a small thing for the Almighty to 
 have destroyed the world by water or a flood; and it is but a 
 
400 
 
 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 small thing for the Almighty to destroy this world by fire^ 
 because He has it all in His own hands. 
 
 Pompeii is but a short distance from here. It was 
 destroyed by the great eruption centuries ago. Great exca- 
 vations are made at the present time. 
 
 Rome is distant about ten hours ride on the train. There 
 are all along the route caves cut into the rocks and moun- 
 tains in which natives live. Many women are employed as 
 guards at the crossings, with flags in their hands. A 
 chain is stretched across the road to prevent accidents. Rail- 
 road traveling is cheap in Italy. We arrived at Rome in 
 the eveninof. 
 
CHAPTER XLVIII. 
 Ancient Rome. 
 
 center of the ancient world— other nations robbed of 
 their treasures— paul in rome— puteoli— three 
 
 TAVERNS — PAUL'S IMPRISONMENT. 
 
 JOME was, in ancient times, the greatest city in 
 the world, and the capital from which the 
 then known world was controlled. In the time 
 [f of Augustus the Roman Empire was the 
 greatest the world ever saw. It extended from the Atlantic 
 to the Euphrates, and from the Danube to the Sibyan desert. 
 The Mediterranean was a Roman lake. Other empires ]iave 
 exceeded it in territory and population, but there never has 
 been a second empire which so united in itself all the culti- 
 vated nations of its time. 
 
 Rome was situated in the centre of the central sea of the 
 ancient world. From this point the world, known to the 
 ancients in Europe, was conquered and controlled. It seems 
 wonderful that one country should govern so many nations. 
 This was done by placing Roman governors over these various 
 kingdoms, the governors being sustained by a multitude of 
 Roman soldiers. A net- work of roads extended from Rome 
 to every part of the empire, like so many cords binding the 
 conquered world to the centre. 
 
 The various generals who conquered other nations 
 robbed them of their choicest treasures; these were brought 
 
 26 
 
402 
 
 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 to Rome to decorate and enrich the capital. There were 
 beautiful statues from Greece, obelisks and columns from 
 Egypt, and a variety of curious and costly manufactures 
 from Asia. Gold, silver and precious stones had been gath- 
 ered from every part of the earth. The city was embellished 
 with temples, many of them beautifully sculptured. There 
 were also theatres, amphitheatres, baths, triumphal arches 
 
 WAii-i; l(>LMVI^ IN i:()Mt. 
 
 [Oi Kjuud Photo.) 
 
 and aqueducts. Augustus boasted that he had found Rome 
 of brick and left it of marble. 
 
 All religions were tolerated in Rome except Christianity. 
 It was thought that the prosperity of a country depended 
 upon the worship of the gods. Christians had no images 
 and did not offer sacrifices, so they were regarded as atheists, 
 men without any religion. In Tinnevelly, where numbers had 
 become Christians, an outbreak of cholera was attributed to 
 the anger of the demons at no longer being worshiped. 
 
PAUL AT KOME. 403 
 
 THE APOSTLE PAUL IN ITALY. 
 
 The Christian church at Rome was probably founded by 
 the "strangers of Rome" who were in Jerusalem on the day 
 of Pentecost.^ Paul had often purposed to visit Rome, but 
 had as often been hindered.^ To make up in part for this 
 failure, he wrote from Corinth the present epistle and sent it 
 by Phebe, a servant of the church at Cenchrea, the eastern 
 port of Corinth. 
 
 At last Paul was sent to Rome to be tried before Csesar. 
 The ship in which he sailed came to Puteoli, on the west 
 coast of Italy, the great port of Rome, where corn ships 
 unloaded their cargoes. The centurion allowed Paul to re- 
 main seven days with the Christians who were living there. 
 From Puteoli Paul went to Rome by a famous highway, 
 called the "Queen of Roads," along which were inns for 
 travelers every twenty miles. 
 
 When the Christians at Rome heard of Paul's landing 
 at Puteoli, several set out to meet him on the way. Some 
 of them had seen him before in other countries. When he 
 was at Corinth, he wrote a long letter to the Christians at 
 Rome. Aquila and Priscilla were now again living in Rome, 
 and very likely they would be among those who went to 
 meet Paul. 
 
 Some came out to a place about forty-three miles from 
 Rome, called Appii Forum, and others to a place called Three 
 Taverns, ten miles nearer Rome. They saw a little gray- 
 headed old man, a chained prisoner, but they received him as 
 an ambassador of Jesus Christ. Paul thanked God and took 
 courage.* At Rome the centurion delivered over the prisoners 
 to the captain of the emperor's body-guard who allowed Paul 
 
 1 Acts 2: 10. - Eom. 1: 1.3. ^ Acts 28: 13, 14. * Acts 28: 15. 
 
404 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 to live by himself in his hired house, in charge of a soldier.' 
 Paul first sought to make known the Gospel to the Jews in 
 Rome, some of whom believed and some believed not. After- 
 ward he labored among the Gentiles, no one forbidding him.^ 
 
 The church at Rome must have increased largely, for 
 only a few years later great numbers of Christians were put 
 to death by Nero. Converts were made even in the palace. 
 During his confinement Paul wrote several of his epistles. 
 He was comforted by the presence of several kind friends, 
 as Luke, Timothy, John and Mark. 
 
 After two years' confinement at Rome, Paul was de- 
 clared innocent and set free. When he left Rome he visited 
 the churches where ho had first made known the Gospel. He 
 may have gone to Spain.' In a letter to Titus, he wrote that 
 he hoped to spend the winter in Macedonia, * but before it 
 was over he was arrested on a new charge, and sent back to 
 Rome to stand a new trial. 
 
 Since Paul had been last in Rome more than half the 
 city had been burned down. It was generally thought that 
 the cruel and wicked emperor Nero had given orders to his 
 servants to set fire to the city in several places, but he laid 
 the blame on the Christians who were now numerous. He 
 ordered large numbers to be crucified; others wore wrapped 
 in the skins of wild beasts and torn by dogs; some wore 
 covered with pitch and set on fire at night to burn as torches 
 in the emperor's gardens. 
 
 The second imprisonment of Paul was very severe. 
 Now, too, he was almost alone. Luke only remained.^ When 
 Paul appeared before the blood-thirsty Nero, the murderer of 
 
 1 Acts 28: It). 2 ^cts 2H: 17— .31. » Rom. 15: 24. 
 
 * Titus 3:12. '2 Tim. 4:11. 
 
CLOSE OF PAUL'S MINISTRY. 405 
 
 his own mother, no man stood by him. It was dangerous for 
 any one to help a Christian in those evil times; but Paul says 
 that the Lord Jesus Christ stood by him and strengthened 
 him. 
 
 While Paul's trial was going on he wrote a second letter 
 to Timothy who had taken charge of the church at Ephesus. 
 Timothy was like a dear son to Paul, and this letter is fall 
 of wise and loving counsel. He urged him not to be afraid 
 of shame and suffering as a Christian, but to endure hardness, 
 as a good soldier of Jesus Christ. 
 
 Paul expected to be put to death, but he looked forward 
 to it with peace and joy. He wrote to Timothy, "I am now 
 ready to be offered, and the time of my departure is at hand. 
 I have fought a good fight, I have finished my course, 1 have 
 kept the faith. Henceforth there is laid up for me a crown 
 of righteousness, which the Lord, the righteous judge, shall 
 give me on that day." Paul felt that the fight was nearly 
 over now. Unrighteous judges would condemn^him to a dis- 
 graceful death, but the righteous judge would give him a 
 crown of life. Paul adds: "Not to me alone, but unto all 
 them also that love him."^ 
 
 Paul tells Timothy how greatly he desired to see him. 
 He asked him to bring the cloak which he left at Troas to 
 protect him from the damp of his prison, and the cold of 
 winter, also his books and parchments.- We do not know 
 whether Paul ever saw Timothy again. When an old man, 
 about seventy years of age, Paul was led out beyond the gates 
 of Rome to die. Luke, his faithful friend, was no doubt with 
 him, and cheered his weary march to the place of execution. 
 Above all, the Lord Jesus Christ would be with him, so that 
 
 i2Tim. 4:6— 8. ^2 Tim. 4:13. 
 
406 
 
 ABOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 when the axe was raised to sever his head from his body he 
 could triumphantly exclaim, "O death, where is thy sting! 
 O grave, where is thy victory? Thanks be to God who 
 giveth us the victory through Jesus Christ." 
 
 Eighteen hundred years have passed away, and Paul is 
 enjoying unspeakable happiness in heaven. How much bet- 
 ter it is to spend life like Paul in trying to do good, than 
 to live a life of sin and ease! We need men like Paul to 
 carry the Gospel of salvation to the people, and turn them 
 from serving the idols of sin and the world to the God of 
 love and mercy. Will you all take part in this noble work ? 
 The crown of righteousness may be ours also. It is however 
 a prize which must be won. There is a race set before us, 
 which we all must run. We must lay aside every thing that 
 hinders us, and we must run with patience, looking unto 
 Jesus. Thus enter upon the race, and so run that you may 
 obtain the victory. 
 
CHAPTER XLIX. 
 Modern Rome. 
 
 ART PRODUCTIONS — GREAT CATHEDRALS — ST. PETER'S CHURCH — 
 ANCIENT RUINS. 
 
 lODERN Rome has a population of 500,000 
 souls. It is the center of the Roman Catholic 
 church and the seat of the Papal government. 
 Wherever one may go in Rome, the 
 pictures and statues that are seen are entirely different in 
 their nature from those of any other place. The show win- 
 dows are full of art productions illustrating Bible subjects 
 and events, making a very attractive appearance. The Virgin 
 Mary, Jesus, and the Twelve Apostles are favorite subjects 
 and are frequently seen reproduced in life size. 
 
 There are many schools and colleges in Rome and many 
 young men, divinity students, with priestly garments, are 
 seen on the streets. They usually appear in groups, each 
 group being accompanied by an older man. 
 
 The great cathedrals here are among the finest and most 
 wonderful in the world. They are made of the finest mater- 
 ials, are supported by immense columns of marble and granite 
 of different colors, and are embellished with various images, 
 paintings, curtains and draperies. The altars and confes- 
 sional boxes are very highly finished. There are many 
 attendants at these places of worship. Some are coming, 
 some are going, while others are worshiping, many of them 
 
408 
 
 AKOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 on their knees praying, and wiping the warm tears from their 
 eyes. Their devotion commands the utmost respect, although 
 in many particulars they are in the dark regarding their 
 eternal welfare. The attendants who escort visitors through 
 the different cathedrals show to strangers the utmost kind- 
 ness. 
 
 St. Peter's church is considered the greatest in the 
 world, and covers an area of 18,000 square yards and is 
 
 {Original Photo.) 
 
 ST. PETER'S CHURCH, ROME. 
 
 claimed to have cost about $50,000,000, and according to tra- 
 dition it is located on the spot where St. Paul suffered 
 martyrdom. The church contains a great deal of mosaic 
 work. One stone is so finely polished that it appears like 
 glass. May not this give some idea of the grandeur of the 
 temple of Solomon in Jerusalem? In the center is a large 
 bronze canopy under which the pope reads mass on high 
 
EOME. 409 
 
 festival occasions, and around this are eighty-six ever burning 
 lamps, the annual expense of which is said to be '13,750,000. 
 
 The question may be asked, "Is not many a poor man 
 and woman taxed to the utmost to raise the money with 
 which to pay these enormous expenses? Yet, these poor people 
 feel greatly consoled by believing that by making confes- 
 sions, and paying their dues, they will enter heaven, 
 
 O that the light of the Gospel might shine, and make 
 such to see that by going to the Lord Jesus Christ, confess- 
 ing and repenting of their sins they shall find mercy and 
 pardon by believing in Him. 
 
 Rome is a very interesting city and is built in modern 
 style with churches and other buildings of high order. There 
 are also many ancient ruins to be seen of aqueducts, 
 walls, and columns that have been standing for centuries. 
 Like Jerusalem, about all that is seen and heard here is 
 of a religious tendency. 
 
CHAPTER L. 
 
 Homeward Bound. 
 
 flokence, italy— basel, switzerland— paris, france — lon- 
 DON, ENGLAND— CROSSING THE ATLANTIC — NEW 
 YORK, U. S. A. — HOME. 
 
 TARTING from Rome, June 1st, we traveled 
 through a very attractive country. The low 
 lands and valleys are in a high state of culti- 
 vation, and the hillsides are utilized as far as 
 possible. Many tunnels are passed through and many 
 bridges are crossed by the railroad. The people are very 
 sociable and talkative, yet their language is very difficult for 
 an American. 
 
 We arrived at Florence, Italy, and spent some time 
 there. Florence is a grand city with churches surmounted 
 by domes, and magnificent structures of all kinds and statues 
 such as can be seen in no other country. The Sabbath day 
 was spent by the people in having a drawing-lottery, at 
 which there was great excitement. This day is not observed 
 by them as it is in America. Bands were playing, soldiers 
 were marching, and many of the people were promenading 
 the streets, while others were attending the services in the 
 magnificent cathedrals surmounted by immense domes hun- 
 dreds of feet high. 
 
 From Florence we went to Milan. We were now getting 
 into a more mountainous country as we came nearer Switzer- 
 
SWITZEELAND. 
 
 411 
 
 land. After spending some time in Milan, and after having 
 our money exchanged into the currency of Switzerland, we 
 traveled toward Basel, going through as many as ten tunnels 
 in an hour's time. We noticed that the railroad companies 
 employed principally women as guards at the crossings. The 
 mountain scenery was grand, the tops of the peaks being 
 covered with snow, and waterfalls hundreds of feet high being 
 
 LUZERN, SWITZERLAND. 
 
 (Original Photo.) 
 
 seen on all sides. In the valley many of the peasantry were 
 making hay. 
 
 One very encouraging feature to us was the fact that the 
 railroad employees spoke principally the German language; 
 this was especially appreciated after having traveled through 
 so many countries where strange languages were used. We 
 went through the St. Gothard tunnel which is nearly three 
 miles lono;. 
 
412 
 
 AEOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Basel is a city of about 600,000 inhabitants, and shows 
 the results of the peculiar business characteristics of the 
 thrifty Swiss people. These few latter cities compare very 
 favorably with our American cities. 
 
 Leavino; Basel by rail we went to Paris. The country 
 through which we traveled is well improved; the inhabitants 
 own fine stock of all kinds, their horses being similar to the 
 large draft horses of our country. 
 
 Paris is without any exception, to our best judgment, the 
 finest city in every respect on the face of the earth. It con- 
 
 (Original Photo.) 
 SISIKON, AT THE URNEK SEA. 
 
 tains about 2,500,000 inhabitants. Here many of the railroad 
 coaches and street omnibuses are two stories high; and they 
 are nearly always filled to their utmost capacity. They are 
 entered at the end and are calculated to hold about forty 
 passengers on the upper story. 
 
 While general information goes to show that a great 
 deal of sin and vice exists in this city, many of the customs 
 of the people, especially their manner of doing business, and 
 the way in which they wear their garments, are being copied 
 by the other civilized nations of the world. Hundreds of 
 interesting things might be said about the French people, 
 
PEOM PAEIS TO LONDOK. 415 
 
 but space and time forbid. The customs and manners of 
 all the civilized European countries are so well known to 
 the average reader that their repetition here would be com- 
 paratively uninteresting. 
 
 On the 7th of June we left Paris, our next objective 
 point being London. At Calaix we took a steamer across 
 the English channel which was very wild and rough. We 
 landed on English soil at Dover, about four o'clock in the 
 morning. The air was quite cool, there being considerable 
 snow along the coast. 
 
 In about two hours after leaving Dover by rail we arrived 
 in London where we had been ten years before. We noticed 
 a great change in that part of the city called " Ludgate Cir- 
 cus." Here I again met my friend J. C. Mack, of Boston, with 
 whom I had roomed while at Jerusalem, and with whom the 
 interesting journey to Bethany, Jericho, the Jordan and the 
 Dead Sea was made. 
 
 About one week was spent here visiting special places of 
 interest in this great metropolis, among which was Spurgeon's 
 tabernacle, where the son of the eminent Charles H. Spurgeon 
 is at present preaching. A very interesting service was held 
 at this place. We were here permitted to meet for the first 
 time Dr. C. Day, of Chicago, with whom we afterwards spent 
 many pleasant hours, and with whom we visited the ex- 
 prisoners' home, where we, together, took part in a service 
 under the auspices of the Salvation Army of London. 
 
 On returning from religious services and places of inter- 
 est in the evening, we met many women of a very low 
 character on the streets. It is stated that there are over 
 600,000 prostitutes in the city of London, who accost men on 
 every side. We noticed that the drinking houses were full 
 
4i6 AfiOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 of both men and women. This is no doubt the most wicked 
 city of the civilized world. These statements have been made 
 by officers of the Salvation Army. O, what a sad condition 
 of aflfairs, that people prefer darkness rather than light! 
 
 Arrangements were now made to leave London; our 
 baggage was inspected by the custom officers, and was 
 allowed to pass. Much more might be said but as it would 
 not be new to our intelligent readers, we refrain. Leaving 
 London, we went by rail to Southampton, the main seaport 
 of the American steamship line. Our friend J. C. Mack 
 accompanied us from here to New York. 
 
 Our voyage was a very pleasant one, and it was espe- 
 cially cheering to know that our journey's end was so near, 
 and that we would soon have the pleasure of meeting our 
 dear ones again. 
 
 We arrived at New York on the 25th of June, feeling 
 grateful to God for His protecting care and the grace given 
 us during these long voyages. After our baggage had landed 
 and passed the custom offices without any difficulty, we spent 
 a few days with relatives and friends in the eastern states. 
 
 We arrived at home on the 4th of July, 1895; and were 
 met by our family and a host of friends that had gathered at 
 the railroad station to welcome us home. The time which 
 we had been looking forward to, during our entire journey, 
 had now come. 
 
 We were grateful to God for His special grace during 
 all these wanderings. The Lord cared for us both on land and 
 sea; and the earnest longing of the writer is that he might be 
 able to share with his fellowmen the information and experi- 
 ence obtained; and that some one may be benefited through 
 these lines. 
 
A PETITION. 417 
 
 The writer concludes with a petition in which he wishes 
 the readers could heartily join: 
 
 O God, Thou who hast made of one blood all nations 
 
 OF MEN FOR TO DWELL ON THE FACE OF THE EARTH, AND DIDST 
 SEND Thy BLESSED SON TO PREACH PEACE TO TIIEM THAT ARE 
 AFAR OFF, AND TO THEM THAT ARE NIGH, SPEED THE TIME WHEN 
 ALL THE NATIONS OF THE EARTH MAY CALL ON TllEE AS THE 
 
 TRUE God, and Jesus Christ as the Redeemer of the world. 
 Grant that all the people of these different lands may 
 feel after Thee and find Thee, and hasten, O Heavenly 
 Father, the fulfillment of Thy promise, to pour out Thy 
 Spirit upon all flesh, through Je:sus Christ our Lord, to 
 whom be all honor and glory forever. Amen. 
 
 '^^ 
 
List of Illustrations. 
 
 Steam ship ........ 22 
 
 Gethsemane and Mount of Olives ..... 23 
 
 Ship's upper deck . . . . . . . 29 
 
 Honolulu ......... 31 
 
 European funeral procession in Turkey ... 35 
 
 Japanese conveyance ....... 38 
 
 Japanese temple ....... 40 
 
 Daibutsu ......... 41 
 
 Turkish festal day ....... 43 
 
 Japanese dinner— eating macaroni . . . . 47 
 
 St. Anna's church, Jerusalem ..... 49 
 
 Miyanoshita, hot springs and bath houses ... 51 
 
 Japanese jinrikisha and tea house .... 52 
 
 Japanese mode of greeting ...... 53 
 
 Tea plantation ........ 54 
 
 Japanese dray — Fujiyama in the distance ... 55 
 
 Street scene in Yokohama ..... 56 
 
 Japanese idol ........ 57 
 
 Ruins of St. John's church, Ephesus ... 59 
 Japanese worship . . . . . . . .63 
 
 Light house ........ 65 
 
 Two seated I'inrikisha, ....... 67 
 
 An oriental burden bearer ...... 6S 
 
 Bristol hotel, Colombo, Ceylon 70 
 
 A scene in the tropics 71 
 
 Madras harbor and pier ...... 73 
 
420 LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. 
 
 Madras Post Office 75 
 
 Tomb of St. Luke, Ephesut, . . . . .77 
 
 Madras catamarans 81 
 
 Coolie girl . . . . . . . .83 
 
 Women cleaning heads ...... 85 
 
 "Ninety to ninety-five percent are poor people" . . 86 
 
 The Field of Blood, or Valley of Hinnom . . 87 
 
 The Hugli river 90 
 
 Ship in storm . 91 
 
 High Court, Calcuiiu ....... 93 
 
 The valley and tombs of Jehoshaphat ... 95 
 
 Hindoo festival 98 
 
 Prayer Mill 99 
 
 Burning Gnatt 101 
 
 Monkey temple 102 
 
 Dancing girl ......... 101 
 
 Upper Kidron and Mount Calvary .... 105 
 
 Sacred tree 109 
 
 Brahmans drowning Lhciiifsclv erf .... 110 
 
 Mount Zion and the Mount of Olives .... Ill 
 
 View of Bombay harbor . . . . , . 115 
 
 Child in jewels 117 
 
 Interior of the cave of KiepuauLa .... 119 
 
 Gates of the church of the Holy Sepulchre . , . 123 
 
 Rock of the Apostles 127 
 
 Child studying nature 129 
 
 Birds of India ... .... 131 
 
 Towers of Silence and vuiLujecs ...... 133 
 
 Church of the Lord's Prayer on Mount Olivet . . 139 
 
 Map of Canaan and part of Egypt .... 141 
 
 Children of Israel crossing the Red Sea . . 144 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 421 
 
 Suez canal . . . . . . . . . 146 
 
 Karnak, Egypt . . . . . . . . 150 
 
 Oriental women veiled . . . . . . . 153 
 
 Water carriers . . . . . , . , 155 
 
 Mohammedans praying ...... 157 
 
 Dancing dervishes ....... 161 
 
 Ruins of the temple of Diana, Ephesus . . . 163 
 
 Palm trees, Egypt 165 
 
 The flight to Egypt 167 
 
 Pyramid and Sphinx . . . . . . 171 
 
 Sphinx 172 
 
 Egyptian well near Cairo . . . . . . 174 
 
 Apis tombs '. . 178 
 
 Interior of the Apis tombs, principal passage . . 180 
 
 Hours of meditation . . . . . . , 181 
 
 Seaport of Joppa, Palestine ..... 189 
 
 Jonah and the whale ....... 191 
 
 Ruined church at Lydda . . . . . . 193 
 
 Jaffa gate . . .198 
 
 Mosque of Omar ....... 203 
 
 Palestine in the time of Christ ..... 211 
 
 Abraham offering up Isaac 214 
 
 Interior of the Mosque of Omar 217 
 
 Stables of Solomon 221 
 
 Church of the Holy Sepulchre 225 
 
 Mary Magdalene at the tomb 229 
 
 Interior of the Coenaculum ...... 237 
 
 Pool of Siloam ........ 241 
 
 Greek ceremony of feet washmg ..... 245 
 
 Arc De L'Ecce Homo via Dolorosa .... 248 
 
 Crucifixion .... ^ ... . 251 
 
422 LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. 
 
 The last supper ........ 255 
 
 Mount Zion and tomb of David and Solomon . . 258 
 
 Leper hospital, Jerusalem 261 
 
 Tomb of the Virgin ....... 267 
 
 Interior of Gethsemane as it appears at the present day 271 
 
 The descent of the Holy Ghost 273 
 
 The Golden gate, Jerusalem . . . . . 275 
 
 St. Stephen's gate, Jerusalem ..... 281 
 
 Cave of the nativity: the manger .... 283 
 
 Bethlehem 287 
 
 Bethlehemite woman ...... 289 
 
 Bethany 293 
 
 Tomb of Lazarus at Bethany ..... 297 
 
 Jericho as seen to-day ....... 303 
 
 The bank of the Jordan 307 
 
 Resting on the banks of the Dead Sea . . . . 311 
 
 Abraham entertaining the angels .... 315 
 
 Jerusalem dragoman . . . . . . .321 
 
 "Abide with us; for it is toward evening" . . . 323 
 
 Damascus gate, Jerusalem ...... 325 
 
 House of Simon the tanner, Joppa . . . . 329 
 
 Convent of St. Elias, near Jericho .... 335 
 
 Plowing and sowing in the Orient .... 337 
 
 Nazareth, the home of Jesus, as it is to-day . . . 339 
 
 Bedouin women ....... 343 
 
 Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee ..... 347 
 
 Feeding the five thousand ...... 351 
 
 Beirut, the seaport of Damascus ..... 355 
 
 Damascus. Minaret St. EUene ..... 361 
 
 A Turkish funeral procession ..... 365 
 
 Saul of Tarsus struck with the great light . 366 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. 423 
 
 Seaport of Smyrna 368 
 
 The rains of the prison of St. Paul, Ephesas . . 369 
 
 Ruins of the aqueduct, Ephesus ..... 373 
 
 Ruins in Ephesus 376 
 
 Ephesus as it is to-day 377 
 
 Ruins of the theatre at Ephesus .... 380 
 
 Athen, Akropolis . . 382 
 
 Mars Hill, Athens 383 
 
 Temple of Athena . 385 
 
 A Grecian costume ....... 386 
 
 Grecian costume and uniform ..... 388 
 
 Grecian lady's costume . 389 
 
 Ruins of the Acropolis .... 390 
 
 Ruins of the Acropolis ...... 392 
 
 Inn of the Good Samaritan ..... 397 
 
 Naples, Italy, and Mount Vesuvius .... 399 
 
 Water fountain in Rome ...... 402 
 
 St. Peter's church, Rome . . . . . . 408 
 
 Luzern, Switzerland ... .... 411 
 
 Sisikon, at the Urner sea . . . . . 412 
 
 Ship of the American line . . . 413 
 
 New York harbor of American line .... 418 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Abraham entertaining the angel 
 Absalom's tomb 
 Aden, Arabia 
 Allahabad, India . 
 American cemetery in Japan 
 American mission in Beirut . 
 American mission in Cairo 
 Apis tombs . 
 Apostles' Springs 
 Application for passport 
 Arabs plowing . 
 
 Baptism of Jesus . 
 Bath houses of Japan 
 Bathing in the Jordan 
 Beirut 
 Benares 
 Bethany- 
 Bethlehem 
 Bethsaida . 
 Bitter lake 
 Bombay 
 
 Brahmans' suicide . 
 Buddhism threatened 
 Buildings in India . 
 Burning Gnatt . 
 
 Cairo, Egypt 
 Calcutta, India . 
 Cana of Galilee 
 Capernaum 
 Caste marks . 
 
 315 
 
 277 
 140 
 108 
 
 56 
 354 
 165 
 178 
 295 
 
 18 
 350 
 
 302 
 
 51 
 
 305 
 
 354 
 
 101 
 
 291 
 
 282 
 
 349 
 
 147 
 
 114 
 
 110 
 
 46 
 
 75 
 
 94 
 
 157 
 
 92 
 
 352 
 
 349 
 
 83 
 
 28 
 
426 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Cave of Adullam 
 
 Cave of Machpelah 
 
 Chapels of Holy Sepulchre 
 
 Chicago visit 
 
 Child training . 
 
 Chinese customs . 
 
 Chinese steward 
 
 Chorazin . . . . 
 
 Christmas in India 
 
 Christ weeping over Jerusalem 
 
 Church of the Holy Sepulchre 
 
 Church of the Lord's prayer . 
 
 Church of nativity 
 
 City of Palms 
 
 Climate of Jerusalem 
 
 Colombo, Ceylon . 
 
 Communion service in Bombay 
 
 Country town on shipboard . 
 
 Crossing the meridian 
 
 Daibutsu 
 
 Damascus .... 
 Dancing dervishes 
 Dead Sea .... 
 Degradation in Benares 
 Diligence .... 
 Distances in India 
 Distinction of women 
 Doctors as missionaries 
 Dogs of Damascus 
 Down to Jericho . 
 
 Easter festival . 
 Egyptian costumes 
 Egyptian water carriers 
 Elephanta cave 
 Elijah's Field . 
 Elisha's Spring 
 
 291 
 316 
 232 
 
 25 
 
 129 
 
 64 
 
 28 
 
 349 
 
 84 
 
 274 
 
 227 
 
 274 
 
 285 
 
 302 
 
 213 
 
 70 
 
 121 
 
 29 
 
 37 
 
 41 
 361 
 160 
 309 
 107 
 357 
 104 
 47 
 34 
 364 
 295 
 
 234 
 153 
 155 
 118 
 302 
 301 
 
INDEX. 
 
 427 
 
 Emmaus 
 
 320 
 
 Ephesus 
 
 . . .373 
 
 Evangelical mission in Japan . . 
 
 47 
 
 Farewell to India . . . 
 
 . 139 
 
 Field of Blood 
 
 279 
 
 Field of Pease 
 
 . 281 
 
 First impression in Jerusalem . . . 
 
 200 
 
 Foreign moneys ..... 
 
 . 21 
 
 
 55 
 
 Garden of Gethsemane .... 
 
 . 266 
 
 Gates of Jerusalem . . . . 
 
 210 
 
 Gennesaret 
 
 . -. . 346 
 
 Globe trotter ' 
 
 92 
 
 Goddess of Mercy .... 
 
 . 42 
 
 Gods of War 
 
 40 
 
 Golden Gate, San Francisco . 
 
 . 27 
 
 Greek feet- washing 
 
 244 
 
 Haifa . 
 
 . 328 
 
 Hebron . 
 
 314 
 
 Hebron Mission Homes 
 
 . 319 
 
 Heliopolis, city of On .... 
 
 183 
 
 Hermits' Caverns ..... 
 
 . 301 
 
 Herod's reign ...... 
 
 208 
 
 Hezekiah's reign 
 
 . 207 
 
 Hill of evil counsel 
 
 280 
 
 Hills of Galilee 
 
 . 343 
 
 Hindoo child widows .... 
 
 116 
 
 Holy fire 
 
 . 235 
 
 Home of Mary, Martha and Lazarus 
 
 292 
 
 Hong Kong, China 
 
 . 64 
 
 Honolulu ....... 
 
 31 
 
 Hospital for bullocks . . . . 
 
 . 114 
 
 House of Ananias 
 
 . . 363 
 
 Houses of Jerusalem . . . . . 
 
 . 213 
 
 Howling dervishes . ... 
 
 162 
 
 Hugli river 
 
 . 89 
 
428 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Infant weddings 
 
 Inscription on a tombstone . 
 
 Island of Cyprus 
 
 Island of Rhodes .... 
 
 Island of Roida .... 
 
 Island of Sumatra 
 
 Ismalia . . . . 
 
 "I will be a Christian" . 
 
 Jairus ..... 
 
 Japanese crematory . 
 
 Japanese hotel .... 
 
 Japanese idols .... 
 
 Japanese mode of building 
 
 Japanese politeness 
 
 Japanese productions 
 
 Japanese sandals . - . 
 
 Japanese war spirit . 
 
 Japanese women .... 
 
 Jericho, ancient 
 
 Jericho, modern .... 
 
 Jerusalem ..... 
 
 Jerusalem missions 
 
 Jerusalem not a place of amusement 
 
 Jewish resort for prayer 
 
 Jewish prayer .... 
 
 Jinrikisha ..... 
 
 Jonah's tomb .... 
 
 Jordan river ..... 
 
 Joseph's well .... 
 
 Jubulpore 
 
 Judas' tree . ~. . . 
 
 97 
 
 97 
 367 
 372 
 166 
 
 70 
 147 
 
 45 
 
 116 
 
 48 
 
 48 
 
 57 
 
 56 
 
 53 
 
 53 
 
 46 
 
 52 
 
 58 
 
 296 
 
 300 
 
 196 
 
 240 
 
 201 
 
 317 
 
 318 
 
 39 
 
 314 
 
 302 
 
 169 
 
 113 
 
 280 
 
 Kamakura 
 King David's reign 
 King Solomon's reign 
 Kobe, Japan 
 
 39 
 202 
 205 
 
 62 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Land of Goshen 
 
 Last judgment . 
 
 Last supper . 
 
 Lazarus' tomb . 
 
 "Learn to know thyself" 
 
 Leaving home . 
 
 Lebanon Mountains 
 
 Leper hospital . 
 
 Leper island . 
 
 Leper physician 
 
 Lepers . 
 
 Licensed prostitutes . 
 
 Madras, India 
 
 Madras mission work 
 
 Madras penitentiary 
 
 Madras population . 
 
 Madras wages 
 
 Mamilla pool 
 
 Mariette 
 
 Mars Hill . . . 
 
 Memphis 
 
 Milk grotto 
 
 Mission meetings . 
 
 Miyanoshita. 
 
 Mohammedan feast day 
 
 Monkey temple in India . 
 
 Moslem's prayer . 
 
 Mother and child parted . 
 
 Mrs. Besant on Theosophy 
 
 Mrs. F. A. Nalor 
 
 Mt. Calvary . 
 
 Mt. Carmel 
 
 Mt. Moriah . 
 
 Mt. Olivet 
 
 Mt. Tabor . 
 
 Mt. Zion . . . . 
 
 Museum of Gizeh . 
 
 429 
 
 . 185 
 274 
 , 254 
 291 
 4.5 
 25 
 357 
 265 
 30 
 33 
 260 
 48 
 72 
 81 
 76 
 74 
 75 
 253 
 180 
 381 
 174 
 285 
 84 
 51 
 318 
 102 
 156 
 62 
 82 
 
 61 
 
 228 
 328 
 215 
 270 
 341 
 259 
 182 
 
430 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Nagasaki .... 
 Nain .... 
 Nazareth .... 
 Ninety percent poor 
 
 Parsee funeral . 
 
 Parsee marriage 
 
 Parsees .... 
 
 Passport 
 
 Paul in Athens . 
 
 Paul in Ephesus 
 
 Paul's escape from Damascus 
 
 Penang .... 
 
 Plains of Sharon 
 
 Pool of Bethesda . 
 
 Pool of Siloah . 
 
 Population, Jerusalem . 
 
 Port Said .... 
 
 Prayag .... 
 
 Prayer Mill 
 
 Products of India . 
 
 Public buildings, Jerusalem 
 
 Pyramids 
 
 Ramses II & lii 
 Rachel's tomb . 
 Railway to Jerusalem 
 Ramleh .... 
 Red Sea 
 Religious services in Singapon 
 Rev. Halicham Bannagee 
 .River Kishon . . . , 
 Religious services on shipboard 
 
 Sacred tree . . . 
 
 Sagar island .... 
 Sailing for Joppa 
 Salt Lake 
 
 62 
 353 
 338 
 
 86 
 
 132 
 130 
 122 
 
 19 
 381 
 
 375 
 363 
 
 69 
 195 
 213 
 278 
 213 
 187 
 110 
 
 99 
 100 
 255 
 170 
 
 177 
 
 282 
 
 195 
 
 195 
 
 143 
 
 69 
 
 85 
 
 3S1 
 
 63 
 
 109 
 
 90 
 
 187 
 
 26 
 
INDEX. 
 
 431 
 
 San Francisco 
 
 26 
 
 Sea of Galileo 
 
 . 346 
 
 Sea rough 
 
 37 
 
 Seasickness . . . 
 
 . , 29 
 
 Shepherds' Field . . . . 
 
 289 
 
 Simasol 
 
 . 371 
 
 Singapore • 
 
 66 
 
 Smyrna, Asia Minor .... 
 
 . 372 
 
 Solomon's pools .... 
 
 313 
 
 Solomon's temple 
 
 . 214 
 
 Sphinx 
 
 172 
 
 Stables of Solomon .... 
 
 . 220 
 
 Stephen stoned 
 
 266 
 
 Strait of Malacca .... 
 
 . 69 
 
 Street called Straight, Damascus 
 
 . . . 363 
 
 Streets and shops in Jerusalem 
 
 . 252 
 
 St. .James' tomb . . . . 
 
 278 
 
 St. Mary's well 
 
 .342 
 
 Suez canal 
 
 146 
 
 Sakkara, Egypt 
 
 . 173 
 
 Table of time 
 
 22 
 
 Tea houses, Japan .... 
 
 . 52 
 
 Temple of Diana . . . • . 
 
 374 
 
 Thos. Cook & Son .... 
 
 . 17 
 
 Tiberias . . . 
 
 393 
 
 Tokio 
 
 . 46 
 
 Tomb of King David ... 
 
 256 
 
 Tomb of King Solomon 
 
 . 256 
 
 Tomb of Samuel .... 
 
 321 
 
 Tomb of the Khedives .... 
 
 . 165 
 
 Tomb of the Virgin .... 
 
 266 
 
 Tripoli 
 
 . 367 
 
 Turkish funeral .... 
 
 365 
 
 Tyre and Sidon 
 
 . 334 
 
 Valley of Achor .... 
 
 296 
 
 Valley of Eschol 
 
 . 314 
 
432 
 
 Il^DEX. 
 
 Valley of Hinnom 
 Valley of Jehoshaphat , 
 Valley of the Kidron 
 Via Dolorosa 
 Walls of Jerusalem . 
 Wheelbarrows in Japan 
 Wonders of the sea . 
 Worshiping the river 
 Yokohama 
 Zacharias' tomb . ~ 
 
 279 
 
 274 
 
 260 
 
 248 
 
 210 
 
 54 
 
 30 
 
 93 
 
 39 
 
 278 
 
 588 
 
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