«■♦<-!* "SO 
 
 
 ■ ,■>>>■ 
 
 
 
 >^j»%' -J 
 
 
 "^^^^ V 
 
 . /^, '•^•^^ '^Wl- /\ '-^J y\. •-^•- /X -l^.- ^^'\ '^WS 
 
 t.\ /.^^.iv"-^. .**\..::^'/V /.^i^^A .^*\c:^.\. c?' 
 
 ^•. "•p/.o* 
 
 
 
 ^ .*"' 
 
 ;. ^ov ,1 
 
 '.\ ^-^^o^ 
 
 
 ./•^f.'^T-' 0^^ X'^^^''^" ^/'-^.^'^o^^ V^^^^'v^^ ^/^^^'.o^"^ VW 
 
 
 
 >"'^*. 
 
 J'"'"^*. 
 
 
 V ..r.-/V'" /^2:i;.v% 
 
 
 0^ .'•, 
 
 y ..^ % 
 
 
 
 
 
 % ••' <t" . <'i« ••• \* °4. ••' «^ <t. ••• V* 
 
 
 
 '/■••■'•■/■ \^^--<^' %/-«^->*' V'^'V**'\%V*' V^^-' 
 
 "^^^ *•••** A'i 
 
 .- ^^^-^-^^ ^w^- ..^"--^.^ '^^jT/ .*^% 'Wl^- /\ '-^itf^ -'»^"^- '' 
 
 
 *:. V 
 
 ',♦ ^ V '^^ -.'«' 
 
 
 ,, •' '• if' <K. •..•• V* Oft, •«.'• A° <t. *•••' ."^^ *^ 
 
 .* .,'> 
 
 >">. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 *. •; ^'^'>-' .<■''* *v '•7^'* .,0'^ 
 
 
 • • . » • aP <fk * • . e * ,«*^ 
 
«<■•*' 
 
 .' cP 
 
 » '*. 
 
 ,^ '*,. 
 
 «.* ^<. 
 
 
 
 
 .*" .-. 
 
 
 ■■'■ / .. \^\/ v^%»' v"^-;/ V'^'/ V^\/ 
 
A SCIENTIFIC GUIDE 
 
 TO 
 
 PRACTICAL CUTTING 
 
 EVERY STYLE OF GARMENT TO FIT THE HUMAN FORM. 
 
 BY WILLIAM GLENOROSS, 
 
 AcTiion OP "A GUIDE TO PRACTIC^M, CUTTING;" "A MANUAL, OR TllVE GUIDE ;" and op the 
 " GUTTER'S MONTHLY JOURNAL, AND SEMI-ANNUAL REPORT OF FASHIONS." 
 
 I]sr ON^E V^OLTJME, 
 
 ILLUSTRATED BY DIAGRAMS OF NEARLY EVERY STYLE OP GARilENT THAT IS NOW 
 WORN BY EITHER SEEN, YOUTH, OR CHILDREN : ALSO, LADIES' BASQLTNES 
 AND HABITS BY ACTUAL MEASUREMENT, COMBINED WITH PRO- 
 PORTIONS, BY THE ESTABLISHMENT OF A CENTRE POINT. , 
 
 NK^A^ YORK: 
 
 Published by WILLIAM GLENCROSS, 569 Broadway. 
 
 181 
 
o 
 
 b 
 
 < 
 
 Entered, according to Act of Congress, in tlie year one tliousand eiglit hundred and seventy-three, by 
 
 WILLLVil GLENCROSS, 
 
 in the office of the Libraiian of Congress at Washington. 
 
 "t 
 
 ^ 
 
 K 
 
 % 
 
 
 0./^ \C)-Z3.^L rev'd 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 TjrN introducing this, my tliircl work on 
 ^1 cutting, I do it witli renewed conll- 
 ■? deuce, looking at it from Reason's 
 standpoint, its basis being establislied upon 
 the immaculate principles of philosophy 
 and common sense, which will at once be 
 its best recommendation to all thinking 
 minds, who have either studied or taken an 
 interest in how to fit the human body in all 
 its various forms, and also to give it that 
 character for artistic beauty of style, and 
 elegance in its appropriateness to the struc- 
 ture to be suited, which is the ambition of 
 all artistic cutters. 
 
 There are many cutters, or students of 
 the art, who have not as yet come up to 
 the high standard here referred to, having 
 paid but little attention to the cause-and- 
 effect principles of the art, a strict observ- 
 ance of which can alone cultivate and im- 
 prove the mind in that which it is essential 
 for it to know, and fully understand the 
 various structures of the human form, and 
 how best to carry out the results of those 
 ideas necessary for its requirements. It is 
 believed that the student in taking a strict 
 observation of the diagrams laid down in 
 this work — the great variety and artistic 
 beauty of their execution — and reading the 
 instructive ideas explanatory of the same, 
 will have his mind sufficient!}^ exercised on 
 scientific problems with a disposition to re- 
 duce the same to practice, as to be the initia- 
 tory step to study and future progress. The 
 present work is based on the same princi- 
 ples as our late work, the "Manual," whicli 
 run out over a year ago, after having gone 
 
 through three editions ; and at no time 
 since it was first published has there been 
 so great a demand for the work as during 
 the past year. Perhaps no work of the 
 kind, or the principles contained in it, 
 have ever met with such universal ap- 
 probation. We believe it has reached 
 and been practiced in almost all parts- of 
 the civilized world. We have been called 
 upon in one week to send a system to Aus- 
 tralia on the one hand, and to the Hawaiian 
 Islands on the other. 
 
 It would be a work of supererogation 
 for me to go into details respecting the 
 merits of the late work. In fact, wher- 
 ever it or its representatives has gone, its 
 superiority has been duly acknowledged 
 and appreciated. Tosuch an extent has this 
 been the case, that in certain cities of the 
 West, we have been credibly informed by re- 
 spectable merchant tailors, that they would 
 not emjiloy a cutter who did not use our 
 system. We are in possession of hundreds 
 of letters at this office eulogizing the prin- 
 ciples of the work, and tendering their 
 thanks to the author for their remarkable 
 success. I could mention the names of 
 thousands who are now in position, in- 
 fluence and wealth through fhe instru- 
 mentality of the ideas inculcated in the 
 aforesaid work and their author. The de- 
 mand for the work has rendered it neces- 
 sary that I should set ray head to work 
 again ; and I can assure ray readers that it is 
 no small business in the line of brain work. 
 And I think I will not be accused by any 
 of iny readers, with the present work 
 
[Preface. 
 
 before them, as being guilty of egotism, 
 when I say that I have felt myself equal 
 to the task. 
 
 As I have alread}' stated, the present 
 system is based on the same principles as 
 the "Manual," namely — the anatomical 
 proportions of the human form, by actual 
 measurement, combined with proportions 
 — the measures producing the proportions. 
 la the old work, many of its principles 
 were correct in themselves and incapable 
 of being improved upon ; while in the new 
 work, actual measurement, through the in- 
 strumentality of the centre point in estab- 
 lishing the point of shoulder, becomes a 
 demonstrated reality. This point being 
 truly established, all other measures or 
 points being equal, the cutting of a gar- 
 ment to fit the various shapes of the hu- 
 man form, remains no longer one of doubt- 
 ful import, but becomes at once one of 
 stern reality. No mantua- making ar- 
 rangements of trying on are necessary in 
 this system. But methinks I hear the fol- 
 lowing query : Do you mean to convey 
 the idea, if the principles of your system 
 are correct, that all men can be taught to 
 measure correctly? I certainly believe 
 that any man with ordinary capacity can 
 be taught to measure correctly through a 
 proper course of drilling, subject to the 
 same mistakes that occur in other mechani- 
 cal operations. But perhaps some will 
 say : Will actual measurement, such as 
 yours, produce as good style of garments 
 as some of the other systems ? My answer 
 is, looking at the query from reason and 
 practical observation, it will produce bet- 
 ter styles, for the following reasons : A coat 
 must fit in order to have good style ; a man 
 nnist be a draughtsman in order to cultivate 
 and produce styles. The mantua-making, 
 trying-on system completely neutralizes all 
 style, as it destroys all taste for drafting 
 and all confidence, depending entirely on a 
 third party for whatever success it may 
 
 have, namely — the bushelman. But all 
 bushelmen are not artists. In answer to 
 all such queries, I would hereby state — 
 show me any principle, either in science 
 or in philosophy, which is correct in the 
 abstract, and I will show j'ou one that can 
 be reduced to practice. But I do not 
 mean to say by the foregoing that all men 
 have the requirements to become artists ; 
 on the contrary, I positively do know 
 that there are a great many engaged in 
 the profession who must always be failures, 
 Nature never having designed them for 
 any such purpose, and had they studied 
 their organism and its tendencies, might 
 have been useful ornaments in some other 
 sphere of action. But we would hereby 
 positively assert, that through the instru- 
 mentality of our system, we have taken 
 some individuals of very moderate capacity 
 and made tolerably good cutters of them. 
 xVs an illustration of this fact, I would re- 
 fer to two cutters who learned at my office 
 more than six years ago, one of whom is 
 cutting in one of the first houses in New 
 Jersey at the present time, and has filled 
 some first-class positions ; the other, when 
 last heard from, was in Milwaukee. Two 
 different foremen of mine, at different pe- 
 riods, wanted me to discharge these young 
 men, after they had been practising for 
 three or four weeks, stating to me that they 
 could never make cutters of them. My 
 answer in both cases was that there was 
 no such letter in my alphabet as " could 
 not."' I took hold of the Milwaukee pupil 
 myself, and I made him the best cutter 
 out of a class of sixteen, which was then 
 learning at my office. This statement will 
 idcntifj' the individual to manj'. 
 
 In our new system we have made a 
 change in our measuring square, so as to 
 make it conform to the requirements of our 
 new principle of taking the centre point, 
 and by means of which we think they will be 
 enabled to take llie measures with greater 
 
Preface.] 
 
 accuracy. As there are many in the trade 
 who have a prejudice against using any in- 
 strument for measuring, we have provided 
 for tliis iu two different ways, which will 
 appear under the head of "Measurement." 
 
 To those who have had our former work 
 we would say — you should undoubtedly 
 have the new, coming, as it does, bright- 
 ened up with new ideas and illustrating 
 some of the old ones in a more practical 
 form, clothed in a new dress and illus- 
 trated by some of the most beautiful dia- 
 grams that have ever been presented to 
 the trade in any work. All the different 
 styles of garments are laid down according 
 to the newest fashion ; and all the newest 
 stjies of cloaks are laid down in a neat 
 and practical form. 
 
 We present some very jjractical illustra- 
 tions of corpulent and stooping men, with il- 
 lustrations of military and naval uniforms ; 
 and also with most of the newest stjdes of 
 children's costumes, and a very neat illus- 
 tration of the neweststjdes of ladies^ basques 
 and habits. To those who have learned 
 with us, this work will be of much value 
 and interest ; and to all, as a work of re- 
 ference, when they are called upon oc- 
 
 casionally to cut garments, not in the 
 ordinary line of cutting, but which can 
 be found in this work, where everj'thing is 
 laid down so as to meet the reciuirements 
 of the trade. It is believed no other 
 work of the kind ever published contained 
 such an amount of useful information ; and I 
 might add hero, for the very best of reasons 
 — their authors never had any practical ex- 
 perience on the subject. 
 
 Iu conclusion I have to say that the 
 present work has cost me a great deal of 
 care and study in the transferring of my 
 ideas through its lettered pages. The 
 principles laid down in this work are not 
 of doubtful import, but are the production 
 of one of the first tailors of the age ; and 
 as he feels positive that this is his last work 
 on cutting, as his future in this life must 
 necessarily be short, he feels a strong con- 
 viction, which is to him a source of gratifi- 
 cation, that the principles as embodied in 
 this work will live long after him, and that 
 it will be the means of producing wealth 
 to thousands yet in the unforseen future as 
 it has in the past, is not only the firm con- 
 viction but also the hope of the author, 
 William Glexcross. 
 
 New York, September, 1873. 
 
ON MEASUREMENT. 
 
 HOW TO MEASURE. 
 
 ^JlfN the outset, we would solicit the 
 
 a I ' 
 
 3;|_ earnest attention of the reader or 
 
 student to the proper way of taking 
 the measure as laid down and illustrated in 
 this work, for the very obvious reason, if 
 your measure is taken correctly, you will 
 be ver}' likely to cut correctly'. And in 
 order to attain this very desirable result, 
 we would suggest the following plan, par- 
 ticularly to tailors in the rural districts, 
 where they very frequently have customers 
 come to be measured for a coat in their 
 shirt sleeves, and not unfrequently with 
 very bad fitting coats on them to measure 
 over, as also these suggestions may be 
 useful to a great many cutters : — I would 
 suggest, to all whom it may concern, to 
 have four or five skeleton jackets, made of 
 some heavy cheaj:) goods, to extend a little 
 below the waist, and to button up the front 
 — the cut of said jackets to be of that char- 
 acter which will fit the greatest number of 
 customers — and when a customer comes 
 along, put ou one of your jackets for the 
 purpose of measuring over. 
 
 Our advice is never to measure over a 
 sack coat if it can be avoided ; the sack 
 coat requiring greater length of back from 
 the bottom of sye up, would be veiy likel}^ 
 to show that extra length in the measure, 
 and when applied to another coat cut 
 through the waist, would produce too much 
 length of back ; and if applied to a sack 
 coat, the extra allowance should not bo 
 given in the draft. 
 
 With these preliminaries, we will now 
 call the reader's attention to Figure 1. On 
 measurement, draw the coat j'ou are about 
 to measure over, into its proper ])lace on 
 the customer ; have it buttoned ; examine 
 the coat which you are about to meas- 
 ure over, whether it is too low in the sye 
 
 or too high, because, if care is not taken, 
 you will be likely to fall into the same 
 error ; then feel the socket-bone or nape of 
 neck, as some call it, and if the collar seam 
 is not right on it, then mark it with a piece 
 of chalk ; then take the measuring square 
 with the solid elbow in your right hand, 
 and cause your customer to raise his arms, 
 and place the elbows of square close up 
 under arm ; then let the arms fall down 
 to their natural position, and as the}' fall 
 down draw the two elbows of square close 
 together on the body ; then step to the 
 right side of your customer and take a side 
 view, and see whether the elbows are 
 placed right straight across the body or 
 not ; then put a mark on centre of back on 
 the upper side of square, and establish the 
 point of bottom of sj-e on back, then apply 
 the square at natui;al waist ; at hollow of 
 waist, just above the hip-bone, draw the 
 elbows close together ; let it be straight 
 across the body, and make a mark on centre 
 of back underneath. In order to have uni- 
 formity in our measure, we will first pro- 
 ceed with Figure 3, or diameter cross- 
 wise. Take the short arm of 3'our square in 
 your left hand with the fore finger resting 
 on elbow as represented ou the figure ; 
 raise your customer's left arm with your 
 right ; place the square underneath as rep- 
 resented, with the solid elbow close up to 
 the front of sye, then bring the slide close 
 up behind the arm, press them closely to- 
 gether but not tight, then take the square 
 olT and examine the side that was next to 
 the bod}', and count the distance between 
 the elbows, say 41 or diameter crosswise, 
 with I for making up or 42, the half of 
 which is the centre line. 
 
 We will now call the reader's attention 
 to Figure 2, or diameter lengthwise. Take 
 
On Measurement.] 
 
 measuring square in your left hand, just 
 below tlie solid elbow ; then raise your cus- 
 tomer's left arm with3-our right and put the 
 solid elbow close up under the arm ; then 
 let your customer's arm fall straight over 
 it ; let the square be flat to the body and 
 close up to the front of arm, the square 
 being straight up and down ; then take 
 your right hand and fetch the slide down 
 on shoulder ; let your left hand be holding 
 the square flat to the body at the same time, 
 so as to avoid getting it too far in toward the 
 neck or too much out ; then look between 
 the two elbows and count the numbers, say 
 51 inches, or diameter lengthwise ; j'our 
 diameter crosswise being 4i, mark one half 
 of that Inside of elbow, at top of shoulder, 
 with g of inch added, which would be 2i or 
 centre point, and also make a chalk mark 
 inside of elbow, at same point. 
 
 We will now proceed to Figure 4, con- 
 sisting of shoulder, sye, and elliptic meas- 
 ures. Take the long arm of square in your 
 hand, a little below the elbows, so as to 
 enable you to command it with more ease ; 
 raise your customer's left arm with your 
 right, and place the elbow of square close 
 up under arm, and let your customer's arm 
 fall down over it ; let the arm of square be 
 flat to the body, and close up to the front of 
 sye ; then stroke down the shoulder of your 
 customer and loosen your hand from the 
 front of sye, so that the shoulder may be in 
 a natural and easy position ; then apply 
 your measure up to the socket-bone; see that 
 the pivot of measure is properly turned 
 by giving it a jerk, and the measure ap- 
 plied in a straight direction ; this we call 
 shoulder measure ; we will suppose it 121 
 inches ; then apjDly your measure right over 
 shoulder-blade to the centre of back at bot- 
 tom of sye, (see Figure 1); be sure the 
 measure is drawn in a straight direction ; 
 this we call blade measure, and suppose it 
 to be 17 inches ; we will then withdraw 
 the square, and draw the inch measure 
 
 under the arm, and throw it over the right 
 shoulder, so as to prevent its twisting, then 
 raise the arm and place the square in the 
 same 230sition again, flat to the body and 
 close up to the front of sye ; then draw the 
 measure to the centre of back, under arm, 
 give the measure a gentle pull and then let 
 it rebound back to a breathing point, and 
 touch centre of back, no matter how hollow 
 the back may be ; this we call sye meas- 
 ure, say II3 inches ; then draw the pivot in 
 the direction and apply measure to natural 
 waist ; draw your hand right along the body 
 in a straight direction, if there are wrinkles 
 in the coat, gather them up ; give the meas- 
 ure a little pull and let it rebound back, and 
 touch natural waist ; this we call elliptic 
 measure and suppose it to be 121 inches, 
 (see Figure 8). We take another proof 
 measure for corpulent men onlj', as re- 
 presented by 3 waist on Figure 8 ; when 
 we are taking the natural waist and marking 
 underneath on centre of back, we also put 
 a mark underneath at side ; and when we 
 are taking shoulder measure with the square 
 straight up and down, we put a mark inside 
 of square, at side, on natural waist, thus 
 producing a cross ; we then apply a meas- 
 sure from the cross to the natural waist, 
 and use it in connection with the elliptic, in 
 the case of corpulent men, so that the one 
 can be a corrective of the other ; whatever 
 difference exists we generally divide it. 
 The measure taken from front of sye, around 
 behind to ITa at top of back, on Figure 8, 
 may be used as a corrective; then place 
 measuring square on as the upper measure, 
 on Figure 1^ with the elbows of square rest- 
 ing on Figure 8, or centre point, as repre- 
 sented on Figure 8, let it be straight across, 
 mark inside toward the neck, and then 
 measure the distance from back seam to cen- 
 tre point, which we will suppose 8 inches, 
 which is the balancing point for shoulders 
 of forepart. 
 
 We will now finish with the inch measure. 
 
[Osr Measurement. 
 
 Applj' measure from socket-bone at neck 
 to proof-centre, say 2 inches, then to bottom 
 of sye 83 inches ; natural waist, 17? ; full 
 length, 19 ; skirt 34 ; next, length of sleeve 
 from centre of back to elbow and sleeve 
 hand ; next, width of elbow and hand at the 
 most prominent part, according to fashion ; 
 next, breast and waist measure, as repre- 
 sented on Figure 6 ; which completes the 
 coat measure with the measuring-square. 
 We will now describe how the system may 
 be used, and the measures taken without 
 the measuring-square, in the following man- 
 ner : Take the plain square, the short arm 
 in your right hand, place it on the point of 
 shoulder, touching 'the extreme point of 
 shoulder-bone with your finger, as repre- 
 sented on Figure 1, and then lay elbow on 
 said point, and let the long arm run straight 
 across to the other shoulder, and make a 
 mark underneath on centre of back ; then 
 take the square and raise the arm of your 
 customer, and put the long arm of square 
 straight across under arm, make a mark 
 on coat both in front of sj^e and behind on 
 top of square ; then lay the straight edge 
 of square close up to the front of sye, and 
 make a cross mark at the front of bottom ; 
 then let the edge of square range with the 
 back seam of coat, with the top of short 
 arm ranging with the chalk mark at back 
 sye ; then put a mark on top of square at 
 centre of back. You will, through this 
 means, have established the depth of 
 shoulder, and also the bottom of sye on back 
 and front ; also a point at the bottom of 
 sye in front, from which to take the shoulder 
 measure and blade, and also the sye mea- 
 sure and elliptic, which should be taken 
 with an inch tape from the cross mark in 
 front of sye to the various points in the 
 manner we have hitherto described. The 
 natural waist can be marked by laying the 
 short arm of a common square in the hol- 
 low of waist, with tlie long arm running 
 straight across, and making a marlc on 
 
 ))ackseam in the same way I have des- 
 cribed. In measuring by this plan care 
 should be taken that the coat measured 
 over should not be moved from its first 
 position. The depth of sye and natural 
 waist may be also very correctly taken 
 with the inch measure b}^ the plan repre- 
 sented on Figure 5 : Take the point of inch 
 measure in your left hand as represented, 
 draw the measure over right shoulder, 
 around the arm, along underneath, and 
 across the back, under the left arm, around 
 the sye and over slioulder, and then place 
 both ends of the measure in one hand, and 
 draw the measure tight, and place it straight 
 across the back with the other. The 
 natural waist maj^ be marked by putting 
 the inch measure straight around the hol- 
 low of waist, and holding the measure 
 tight in front, while you mark it with the 
 other hand underneath ; behind, the di- 
 ameter lengthwise and crosswise may be 
 used in tlie following manner : By using 5 k 
 graduated inches for the length, and 4? 
 for the width. 
 
 In extreme high or low shoulders or flat 
 bodies, this plan would not work so well as 
 taken with the measuring square. Fig. 7 is 
 an illustration of our new measuring square. 
 
 Figure 8 is a diagram exhibiting the ap- 
 plication of the measurement, and also a 
 centre line all the way through from the 
 middle of diameter on back to the centre 
 line, which runs to the centre of diameter 
 on back while in a joining position to the 
 shoulder ; also the centre point and proof- 
 centre. This can only occur, however, in 
 certain proportions. The measure taken 
 from front of sye away to 17^ at top of 
 back is one we never use, but some of our 
 friends use it as a corrective in case they 
 should take the depth of sye on back too 
 long or too short ; b}'- the application of 
 this measure they can remedj^ it, but if the 
 depth of sye on back is taken correctly it 
 is entirelv useless. 
 
Actual MeasiireT7iejit Pltite -I. 
 
Description of Plate I. 
 
 J^IGURE 1 is the doi)th of syc on back, 
 taken with the measuring square, and 
 also natural waist, taken at the hol- 
 low of waist above the loin bones ; and 
 also the blade measure, taken over the 
 shoulder to centre of back at depth of syc 
 on back, the square being placed in the 
 same manner as on Figure 4. 
 
 Figure 2 is the diameter lengthwise. 
 The diameter crosswise, as represented on 
 Figure 3, should be taken before Figure 2, 
 iu order to know the diameter crosswise, 
 so as to be enabled to mark the centre point 
 on ligure 2 by the slide on top of shoulder, 
 which is half the diameter crosswise. 
 
 Figure 4. — On this figure we have re- 
 presented shoulder measure, taken from the 
 bottom front of sye to socket bone, and 
 sye measure from same point under arm to 
 centre of back ; and also the eliptic from 
 the same point to natural waist. 
 
 Figure 5. — On this figure is represented 
 the way of taking the depth of sye and 
 natural waist with the inch measure, l»y 
 drawing the measure close up under arms 
 and drawing it up over the shoulder, and 
 after adjusting it in its proper place to hold 
 it, as represented, and mark on the top at 
 back seam. The natural waist may be 
 taken by drawing the inch measure close 
 above the loin bone. 
 
 Figure 6 represents breast and waist 
 measure taken over the vest. 
 
 Figure 7 is the measuring square. 
 
 Figure 8 represents the system with the 
 application of the measures, and exhi])itiug 
 a centre all through from centre of diame- 
 ter to centre with the centre point at 8. 
 The proof measure at natural waist is onl3' 
 used in the case of corpulent men. 
 
Description of Plates 11. and III. 
 
 nOAV TO PRAUGHT FROCK COAT. 
 
 'fc 
 
 would claim the reader's most 
 dent attention while we proceed 
 ' ' to draught a coat hj the system 
 according to measure ; and in doing so, we 
 will select the measure laid down on plate 
 III., which wcwill call the Bowband Coat, 
 it being the first coat on which we demon- 
 strated our new principle of the proof- 
 centre or centre point. The diagrams on 
 both plates are those of a Frock Coat. 
 Plate n. represents that which we call the 
 fair-proportioned type, the whole body of 
 the coat being laid down in a solid piece 
 with its accompanying appurtenances, to 
 show the application of the measures, and 
 in laying on the back to those points in 
 which it stands connected, and exhibiting 
 to view the manner of forming the fore- 
 part. In our explanation we shall refer to 
 either plate as the circumstances of the 
 case may require. The following is the 
 measure: Diameter crosswise, 42 ; length- 
 wise, 5i ; shoulder, 121 ; blade, 171 ; syc 
 measure, 12i ; eliptic, .14 ; centre point, 
 3 ; proof-centre, 2 ; depth of sye, 82 ; 
 length of natural waist, 17? ; full length, 
 19 ; skirt, 34 ; length of sleeve to elbow, 
 20J ; full length, 32A ; width at elbow, 8| ; 
 sleeve hand, 5h. We will now proceed to 
 draught back according to the measure : 
 Draw construction line from to 34 ; lay 
 elbow of square on at 0, with the long arm 
 inside from construction line I3 graduated 
 inches, at natural waist, or 17? ; then draw 
 back line from to 19, or full length, and 
 then square in top ; mark down on back 
 line 2 inches or proof-centre, and 8h or 
 
 depth of sye according to measure ; square 
 these lines across by back line and the 
 waist by construction line ; then lay j'our 
 square on back line, your diameter length- 
 wise 5?, resting on 83 and elbow on 31, 
 and draw line diameter lengthwise ; estab- 
 lish centre of diameter by dividing the 5k 
 or 21, and mark 2 inch below centre and 
 establish line bottom of pitch at6i ; then 
 mark width of pitch from bottom 2 gradu- 
 ated inches, as from G|- to 4?, and square 
 those lines across ; 'then mark on your line 
 centre point 8 inches, according to measure. 
 We will now proceed to the bottom line of 
 pitch, and find width of pitch by laying the 
 elbow of square on at 121 or S3'e measure, 
 with 121 resting on back line ; then deduct 
 3-our diameter crosswise, oil, which is 43, 
 leaving the width of bottom of pitch 7J : 
 1 or s may be added to top of pitch, as at 
 8s, which should be regulated according to 
 the fashionable width of shoulder ; for 
 width of top mark 2h graduated inches, 
 s(j(uare it up and mark 3 inch for spring — 
 in stooped men it should not be more than 
 1 ; mark width of back at waist II inches, 
 and at bottom 33 : draw line from 3 to 8h, 
 and from 71 to ] 3, and form top of back 
 from to 3 ; shoulder from 3 to 8s ; pitch 
 from 8g to 71 ; sidcseam from 71 by 31 : 
 skirt as model to 33. 
 
 How TO Draught Forepart, Figure 4. 
 — Draw construction line from to 223 
 square in top ; mark down from at top 
 to find bottom of syc, your shoulder 
 measure with the width of top of back in- 
 cluded, with 3 inch added for shoulder and 
 
MEASURE 
 
 Diaiiietex Leii<5thwise 5$ 
 
 CTOSs-vnse_ 4i 
 
 Shoulder \2i 
 
 Blade Vi 
 
 Sye ^ 111 
 
 Depth of Sye ojil^act: 8f 
 
 Waist 17fibl9 
 
 Proof Centre.-.- — S&r7l 
 
 Breast:.^_-_ J-* 
 
 Waist 16 
 
 r/n/r ? '"^ 
 
 A\, 
 
hate 3^(^ 
 
PlATKS ir. AND HI.] 
 
 11 
 
 backscam, say 23 for top of buck, and lOJ 
 would make lol, liie slionldcr measure 
 being 121, and one half inch for making 
 up, would amount to 131, or lOJ to bottom 
 of 83'e ; then take your back, laying the 
 bottom of sye of back on (hat of forepart 
 backseani on construction line, and nnii'k 
 the line bottom of pitch b}' that of back, 
 also the line diameter lengthwise ; then run 
 up the top of l)ack to the top of forepart 
 to (), and mark the depth of shoulder at Si 
 l)y that of back ; then square these lines 
 across ; and we will es(al)lish our widths 
 b}' marking on top, from 0, the sj'e mea- 
 sure, or 121 inches (what we mean by the 
 sye measure is the measure taken from 
 front of sye, under arm, to centre of back) ; 
 we will now divide the 121 in two parts, 
 making Gj the half; we also add 2 inch 
 f(.)r seams, makiiii;- Oi. this being the part 
 that front of sye comes to, the other half 
 to 121 being only given to produce propor- 
 tion in draughting, as, by casting a glance 
 on the diagram in plate II., the sye measure 
 is occupied by the back, in one part, and 
 the other jiart with the 3 incli is occupied 
 with the diameter crosswise, which is de- 
 ducted from the sye measure to 71, illus- 
 trated on Figure 2, and nnirked diameter 
 crosswise. We will now proceed with 
 Figure 4 by drawing a line from 121 to 
 bottom, on the square, also the line from 
 6g front of sye. We will now come to the 
 line of pitch, and mark from the line at 
 front of sye our diameter crosswise lA, 
 with 2 inch added for seams, to If, which 
 is the top point of sidcseam ; we will then 
 measure the length of our sideseam from 
 this point by applying the sidcseam of back 
 down construction line, as to 201 and 22^, 
 then square these lines across. The length 
 of sideseam can be also obtained in the 
 manner shown on Figures 2 and 3, plate 
 II. b}^ sweeping from 31 to h. at natural 
 waist b}' 71 at jjoint of sideseam. and the 
 l)ottom line in the same way ; the [)i)iiil of 
 
 sideseam being established 11 inches in 
 from construction line, we mark 2 the dis- 
 tance to said line, for the purpose of form- 
 ing sideseam, and we mark h inch in at 
 natural waist, as represented at V on j)late 
 If; we will tl;en lay on back, as represented 
 by Figure 5, dotted line, with the side 
 touching at 2 inch in at natural waist, and 
 h the distance from Ig at sidepoint ; then 
 appl}' your eliptic mea.sure from 6g, at tiie 
 bottom of sye, to 14 at natural waist, and 
 move sideseam in or out according to mea- 
 sure ; then mai'k dotted line all the way by 
 the side of back, and form the sideseam 
 according to model. We will now mark 
 from G3 at the bottom of sj'C 1 the sye 
 measure, being 3 iijchcs each way along the 
 bottom and front, as a guide for crossing 
 lines in tlie forming of sye ; we will also 
 es(abii.--h our centre line b}' marking 2.7 
 inches from front of s^-e on line diameter 
 lengthwise, and is one-half the diameter 
 crosswise, wilh the ■> inch added for scams ; 
 then take your back and place the line 
 proof-centre at 8 on centre line, wilh the 
 top of back touching the line of ibrej»art 
 at P ; the top of back pitch ma_y also 
 touch the line dc|)lh of [-inndder on fore- 
 part, (see Figure 1); then apply your blade 
 measure to 81, which is 171 inches, as re- 
 presented on plate II. ; this part t>f the 
 coat being all on the bias, will stretch a 
 little, I'of inch may be added for making 
 up, and when the shoulder is raised with 
 wadding, 2 to 1 of inch may be added ac- 
 cording (0 the requirements of raising ; 
 the shoulder should be changed up or down 
 at this point to correspond wilh the blade 
 nicasure, if it is found necessary, then 
 form shoulder by rounding it ofl' 2 inch 
 from centre line to point of shoulder (see 
 model) ; then Iln'm your sye by touching 
 the ;') on front and bottom, and about 1 of 
 inch in I'rout of line, and S of inch each 
 way in crossing around the bottoin corner, 
 ami 1 below the bottom line ; lay on back 
 
12 
 
 [Plates II. and III. 
 
 as Figure 5, find apply waist measure along 
 the natural waist to (he front at 10 or 17 
 inches ; add li inches foi- making up, and 
 form fi'ont of breast from lih by IG.lCi, 161 
 to 102 at bottom, and take out V of h inch, 
 unless in cases of large waists, when no V 
 should be taken out, and no allowance given 
 for making up, as it will always stretch 
 sufficient for that purpose ; in small waists 
 the V should be enlarged in proportion, 
 and not rounded off in front to its seeming 
 requirement by the measure, which will 
 prevent the breast from rising up in front 
 when buttoned ; apply 2 breast measure 
 from line in Front of sye to IG in front, 
 and also to 1 12 at top, and form breast by 
 those points ; then draw line from I2 down 
 from Gi to 142, and form neckgorge as model. 
 Mark along the bottom from construction 
 line Gh inches, and draw a line from bot- 
 tom of sye to Gg ; mark up said line I2 
 from bottom, then up from I2, 2 inches, 
 and place the natural waist in ils proper 
 j)lace; then form bottom of si<lcbody by 
 the I2, giving it a gentle curve, an.l form 
 the front by drawing the line by I2 to 1 
 up from bottom ; then hollow the sidebody, 
 as model, by crossing at the natural waist, 
 and giving about « of inch of spring on 
 cither side at l)i>llom ; take out V of 2 
 inch from lOi to 11 wiicn the arms are 
 well forward, which indicates a narrow 
 
 chest ; 2 breast is too much to add in front 
 at IG; in such cases apply your breast 
 measure with your back in a joining posi- 
 tion, as represented on Figures 2 and 3, 
 plate II., with 1 the breast measure ad- 
 ded, or 3 graduated inches, which Avill 
 regulate the front of breast. In establish- 
 ing the front of sye the placing it forward 
 2 inch for seams is merely accommodating 
 as the measures work backwards from this 
 part, and I of inch added to diameter 
 crosswise will generall}'^ be enough for 
 making up. 
 
 How TO DjlAUGHT SkIRT, FiGURE 1. — 
 
 Draw construction line from to 18, square 
 in top; mark down construction line from 
 0, 21, 71 ; then apply measure from 21 to 
 18, applying exact measure of waist of 
 forepart, with bottom of lapel included, and 
 1 inch added for fullness ; then draw a 
 line from 21 to 18, or waist of skirt ; Ihen 
 draw si)ring of skirt by laying elbow of 
 square at 18 with arm resting at 71 ; then 
 form top of skirt by hollowing 1 of an inch 
 as niiidel ; then lay on sidebod\' in a join- 
 ing position to skirt at 18, and form your 
 spring of skirt to arrange Avith sideseam 82 
 inches up ; mark length of skirt by that of 
 back ; form bottom of skirt to correspond 
 with hollow at lop, the front being half- an 
 inch shorter than behind. 
 
Plate ^ ^^} 
 
Description of Plate IV. 
 
 jlj\N plale IV. we liave two difTereut 
 '%IJ' styles of coats ; the one n, dress coat 
 * and tlie other a single-breasted frock. 
 As we have shown In onr measurement the 
 manner of taking the measure without the 
 use of the measuring square, the reader can 
 use either the common square or inch tape, 
 as he pleases, according to instructions on 
 measurement. "We now propose showing 
 the way to draught the dress coat b\' the 
 measure taken without the square, 0:1 gen- 
 eral principles not to be i\pplicd to this 
 coat exclusively, but for the use of whom it 
 may concern. Tiio following is the meas- 
 ure : diameter crosswise, 41 ; lengthwise, 
 51 ; -shoulder measure, 121 ; blade, 17 ; 
 syc measure, Hi; eliptic, 12-5; depth ofsye, 
 82 ; length of natural waist, 16 J ; full 
 length, 18; skirt, 34; breast, IS; waist, 
 10. By a reference to the plan of measure- 
 ment it will be seen that you have got all 
 the essential measui'cs for cutting your coat, 
 length behind and front, (he blade and 
 eliptic measures, and also the widths, the 
 most essential of which is the measure from 
 front of syc to centre of back, which we 
 call the sye measure. 111 inches; we will 
 now divide the sye measure into its appro- 
 priate parts, so that the reader may under- 
 stand what he is doing: the width of back 
 at bottom of pitch is half the sye measure 
 and one-eighth, say 5s and 1 ;1 or T inches ; 
 and in estal)lishiug tliL' front of sye from 
 at construction line to (31 is half the syc 
 measure and half inch for making up, and 
 the diameter of svo from 01 to It is 41, 
 
 with i added for scams making 4^, added 
 to the 7, widdi of back, make lU inches 
 thus allowing 1 inch lor making up, which 
 goes to the diameter of s^'c. 
 
 How TO Draught Back, Figure ;5. — 
 Draw construction lino from to 34 ; then 
 select your scale corresponding with the 
 breast measure, then mark inside at natural 
 waist]. 5 inches: tlien draw the back line 
 from 01)y said 1-1 inches; then mark down 
 from on back line, 82 inches by S(juare, 
 natural waist, IG2 ; full length, 18 ; the 
 lines of pitch, 41 and Gl by the scale, and 
 S(iuare those lines Avhich form the pitch, by 
 tiie back line, and also the line at top from 
 to 22. Square in waist lines l)y con- 
 .struction line ; then take scale and mark 
 on top from 2h with 3 up for spring, top 
 of pitch 8, bottom 7 : at natural waist 3s, 
 at bottom 02 ; draw a straight line from 7 
 to I2 at natural waist, and form back by 
 tliosc points indicatcil and according to 
 model. 
 
 IIo\\' TO Draught Forki'art, Fujurk 2. 
 — Draw construction line from to 21, 
 and S(juare in top ; then mark down your 
 shoulder measure, which was 121, fi'om 
 at top (0 tOl at liottom of sye, which be- 
 ing added to (he 22011 top of back will 
 make 12i, thus allowing half an inch for 
 seams ; then (alee vonr scale corresponding- 
 wi(h (he Ijreast ifleasiire, and mark down 
 from (o ;5 or depth of shoulder to point 
 of shoulder 3, 4 ; then 8 or 21 inches up 
 
u 
 
 [Plate IV. 
 
 from lOi, same as back, and lOi and 21' 
 or fall length ; then square those lines across 
 from construction line ; then mark on top 
 line 61 and 8k, or 2 graduated inches in all 
 cases in front ofsye line, on line, depth of 
 shoulder at front 131 on line of pitch from 
 8, 11, 21, 15i, on line lOi, or bottom of sye, 
 43, 61, 152, on line lOh. or natural waist 
 T, 5, 51,10, lOi; then mark on bottom line 
 6, Hi, 141, I the distance from 11, which 
 is point of sideseam, and bottom of back 
 pitch to 21 is length of sideseam, and should 
 1)0 carefully measured by the side of back ; 
 llien lay your back on in a joining posiliou, 
 Willi 31 at natural waist of back, resting 
 on 1 of forepart, with T of back resting 
 half way between 8 and 11 at top of side- 
 seam ; then apply your eliptic measure, 
 witli the inch tape, from 61 to I2 on back, 
 and move it in or out to correspond with 
 the eliptic measure: then form your side- 
 seam as model. Then lay your top of back 
 at A, resting on shoulder of forepart at 81, 
 which should be two inches in front of line 
 of sve, and let the point of back 8 rest 
 half an inch above the line running from 4 
 on line of shoulder. Then apiily your 
 blade measure, which is 17, and change 
 the point to coiUbrm with this measure. 
 The proof measure from socket bone to the 
 same place, may be applied here as a cor- 
 rective, and then round your shoulder to 
 correspond to the line ; then mark 21 
 inches up the line from Gl at bottom of 
 sye, and 21 outside along the bottom ; then 
 form your sye from point of shoulder, cross- 
 iim- llie line at 21, and about § of an inch 
 inside, at bottom corner, crossing at 21 
 ati-aiii to 11. Then mark down from 61, Ih 
 inches, and from front of , sye to 151 inches, 
 half the breast measure, then sweep from 
 151 to 13i, by front of .sye ;draw line from 
 Ih to 13s, and form neck gorge as model; 
 then ajiply 'waist measure along natural 
 waist, back included, which Vvill make 16i, 
 allowing 1 i inches Wn- V and making uj). 
 
 Then draw line from Ah under arm to 6 at 
 bottom ; mark up from G, Ih inches; mark 
 up from 141, 1 of an inch, and form spring 
 of side bod}' and bottom as model. Then 
 form round of breast from 13| by 151, 15^, 
 141, at bottom. Takeout V from 10 to 
 lOj, and form waist as model, which com- 
 pletes the forepart. 
 
 IIow TO Draught Duess Coat Skirt, 
 Figure 1. — Draw construction line from 
 to 17, mark down from 0, 9 graduated 
 inches, square it out to I5, mark inside 
 from at top 1, then place elbow of square 
 on at 1, with arm touching at Ih, and draw 
 liair line of top to 16, mark width of top 
 of skirt 101, and bottom Gl, draw line from 
 lOl to 61, and give it a curve of about I 
 at centre, make the width of step 1 inch, 
 and curve the top as model and the skirt 
 at plait, from 1 to 9. Figures 6 and 7 is 
 the lapel and coHar adapted to this coat, 
 and are drafted by the scale from the line 
 of consti-uctioii. 
 
 Figures 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, are the dia- 
 grams of a single-breasted frock coat, and 
 is drafted to the' same measure as that of 
 tlie dress coat, and tlic same sleeves and 
 collar being adapted to either coat, and 
 with the lapel. Figure 9 is adapted to frock 
 coat on iilate III. This coat is draughted 
 ill the same way as double-breasted frock 
 coat, represented on plate Ilf, with the 
 excci)tions of the measure being diifcrent, 
 and the latter being single-breasjed, and 
 which we will now proceed to describe the 
 dilference in draughting the forepart. Fig- 
 ure 4, from that of the double-breast, and 
 as the difference chiefly consists in the 
 lapel growing, too, our remarks will, therc- 
 I'ore, be mostl}' confined to that ])oiiit. In 
 applying the breast measure to the front 
 of breast to where the lapel is added, it 
 should have a redaction of h inch less than 
 double-breast to lapel, and then add 21 
 inches for lapel, oi- more or less nccording 
 to fashion ; an addition is made at waist. 
 
Plate IV.] 
 
 15 
 
 iiichuliiig the addition allowed for V, of 1% 
 inches. As the same skirt is adapted to 
 either the single or double-breast, with the 
 exception that it wonld require to be short- 
 ened one inch for single-breast, for further 
 explanation, see Figure 1, plate ;lrd. 
 
 How TO Draugut Sleeve, Ficuhe 5. — 
 Draw construction line from to 253, 
 square in top, the width of back at pitcli 
 being 7, lay 7 on at 0, and mark distance 
 to elbow at loi or 2O5 inches, the measure 
 being 20, and 2 inch for seams, and (nil 
 length to 252, making o2h, the 3 inch be- 
 ing for seams. The distance from to 3 
 on sleeve is same as from 8 to lOJ on fore- 
 part, with I the distance from 7 to 8 on 
 back, amounting to ?>k, we have placed it 
 at 3, which it \rould be when joined, or in 
 other words, the same distance from mid- 
 dle of back pitch, where the back arm seam 
 of sleeve joins to bottom of sye at 10?, then 
 square those lines across, then measure 
 around the sye of your forepart back pitch. 
 
 included, say IG2, and mark the i to 8h, we 
 have given it k of inch more for forming 
 at forearm, then draw line on the square 
 or forearm, from 82 to 8.^ at bottom, then 
 draw line from to 82, say 9 inches, the 
 half of which is 42 as marked, then draw 
 the line from 4^ to 3, which is one- third 
 the distance from to 82, then divide the 
 distance from 42 to and 82 respectivcl}-, 
 which is 2-2, and square up the lines to 2 
 which is also 22, then sweep from to 82 
 by 2-2, and straighten curve a little in 
 front, then sweep from 252 to 82 by 0, lay 
 elbow of square on at elbow,or 132, with arm 
 2 inch inside from 252, and draw line to 1, 
 then mark width of bottom from 82 to 
 51, form forearm from 82 to 82 by I, mark 
 outside from ISi-l, and finish upper side as 
 model, from by I to 51 ; mark your un- 
 derside from 82 to 1 inch inside from 0, or 
 2 the measure of s}' e, and form underside 
 as model. The principle of drafting this 
 sleeve is applicable to any of the coats. 
 
Description of Plate V. 
 
 #N plate V, we have llu-ee different 
 stj'les of coats represented, all of 
 ■\vliicli are very fashionable at the 
 present time, the measures are nearly the 
 same, with the exception of the length of 
 waist and skirt, the back, Fig-ure o, is suit- 
 ed to the forepart. Figures 5 and 8, which 
 represent a single and double-breasted 
 walking coat with pointed lapel, the skirts 
 2 and 4,^re either of them adapted to fore- 
 part. Figure 8 ; only the skirt 4 would re- 
 quire an additional length of 1 inch to suit 
 the back ; on Figure 1 and 9 are the dia- 
 grams of a walking coat of the open V form 
 of breast, the step at front being gently 
 curved, the bottom of skirt is square, but 
 should also be curved when the step at 
 front of collar is; these coats are all laid 
 down with the numbers affixed, so that they 
 may be drafted with the scale for cutting 
 patterns as well as by the application of the 
 system throngh the measures. As we have 
 already shown the way of drafting by the 
 measures, on plate 11 and III, it will not be 
 necessary to go through the same routine 
 again, but simply to confine our explana- 
 tions to those points of the diagrams which 
 represent the different points of style on 
 each, peculiar to each garment different 
 from those we have already described. 
 
 Wc will now give the measure of Figures 
 1 and 9 : diameter, crosswise, 4j ; length- 
 wise, 51 ; shoulder, 122 ; blade, 17 ; in 
 Figure 5 it is also 17 ; in Figure 8 it is 
 I7i ; sye measure, 11^ ; eleptic, 123 ; in 
 Figures 5 and 8, 121 ; depth of sye on 
 
 back, 83 ; natural waist, IG2-I83 ; length 
 of skirt 32 ; in Figure 5 and 8 the length 
 of waist is at 17-19, and skirt B3, the 
 proof centre on Figure 3 is 2-71, and on 
 ■Figure 9 11-71 ; breast 18, waist 16. We 
 would here remark that it is not necessary 
 that the proof centre should be left grow- 
 ing outside of shoulders, as represented on 
 diagram in cutting pattern, as when the 
 back at this point is laid on. For fonning 
 shoulders, the edge of square may be used 
 in connection with the line to 71, or what- 
 ever it may be, the diameter crosswise is 
 4i, but i of an inch should be added for 
 making up, and 3 that amount added to 
 centre line at 21, or half diameter cross- 
 wise ; the line marked 61 at front of sye is 
 half sye measure, with i inch in front for 
 seams ; to 11 3 is full sye measure, the 
 point of shoulders at 81 is 2 inches in front 
 of sye, and where the proof centre at 71 
 touching centre line places it at this point; 
 the amount given in front of breast in coats 
 of this kind are in most cases regulated by 
 fashion, and according to the size of the 
 ball of breast, in this diagram we put it at 
 2 inches more than half the breast measure 
 from line front of sye, or 11 inches, making 
 175 ; we then sweep from 171 to ISA at 
 top, and then form the bottom part accord- 
 ing to fashion, and the requirements of the 
 customer, whether it should be well slanted 
 off or moderately so, the bottom is at 17 
 and would button on a man 15^ at waist. 
 On Figure 5 the sye measure is the same, 
 but the point of shoulder is 1 of inch fur- 
 
PUtte J*!^ 
 
Plate V.] 
 
 17 
 
 ther forward, being placed at 82 ; this fore- 
 part is single breasted, and of tlie pointed 
 lapel form ; in front of breast we give it 2 
 breast less, ^ inch from line front of sye to 
 15, and 2i inches more for width of lapel ; 
 sweep from 15 to 13 2, take out fish of one 
 inch to 142, give the lapel 2 inches width 
 at top, and form j'our lapel and front ac- 
 cording to model. Skirt, Figure 7, is well 
 adapted to this forepart, and may be made 
 square at bottom if required. 
 
 On Figure 8 we have represented a very 
 elegant style of double-breasted walking 
 coat. It has the back in a joining position 
 at shoulder, showing the establishment of 
 point of shoulder by the proof centre, touch- 
 ing centre point 7?, at centre line 2h ; the 
 
 points of this forepart are in most respects 
 like that of the other, the point of shoulder 
 is h of inch further back, being at 81, or 2 
 inches in front of sj^e ; in front of breast to 
 lapel in double-breasted coats we give 3 
 breast, (subject to contingencies referred to 
 in the explanations to frock coat,) as to 15 1 
 or 9 inches, and width of lapel at this part 
 22 inches, and at top 21, at bottom 17 ; 
 take out the fish according to model, and 
 form the front by those points indicated. 
 The collar, Figure 6, is adapted to either 
 of these coats ; it is drafted by the scale. 
 The roll of breast of coats can be made to 
 roll more or less in conformity with the 
 sewing, too, part of front of collar being 
 well rounded or otherwise. 
 
Description of Plate VL 
 
 jij^N Figures 1 and 7, wc have a very 
 a|1# neat style of coat or jacket, of the 
 register form ; this coat is admirably 
 adapted for summer goods and for summer 
 wear, being well rounded off, and stylish 
 iu its general appearance. It is drafted 
 to the following measure : diameter, cross- 
 wise, 41 ; lengthwise, 6h ; shoulder meas- 
 ure, 12t ; blade, IT? ; sye measure, llf ; 
 eliptic, 121 ; proof centre, 11, and It ; 
 depth of sye, 81 ; natural waist, 16|-18t ; 
 length of skirt, 31 ; breast 18; waist IG. 
 The difference in the back of this coat from 
 those I have been explaining, consists in 
 the back being a little longer from bottom 
 of sye np, and hence better adapted to a 
 man slightly stooping, the pitch also in both 
 width and breadth is i of inch larger, the 
 waist longer, and the skirt shorter. In the 
 forepart the top of back is laid on with the 
 proof centre, to establish the point of 
 shoulders Avhich is at 81, the sye measure 
 111 ; on front of breast of this coat there is 
 only half breast, and 11 given, or 17 inches 
 and 171 at bottom of sye, and at front oi' 
 waist the skirt is well slanted and rounded 
 off at bottom. In cutting the pattern lor 
 this coat, either the sidebody or skirt 
 would have to be pieced out, and care 
 should be taken in doing so to give it its 
 proper form ; the top of skirt with flap, is 
 cut straight across, ranging with the waist 
 lines ; the skirt should be cut to plait, so 
 as to allow of A inch fullness ; it is thrown 
 out^2 inches outside of construction line at 
 bottom, but the spring of skirt should be 
 
 ranged by laying on the bottom of side- 
 bod}^ in a joining position to that of top of 
 skirt, and ranging the spring of skirt with 
 that of sidebody from about 3 inches up. 
 Much care should be. taken in joining the 
 sidebod}^ too, at this point, so as not to 
 contract it in au}^ particular, and the lining 
 should be held full over sidebody, but par- 
 ticularly at the waist. 
 
 On Figures 2, 3 and 4, we give the dia- 
 grams of an English stjie of jacket, but to 
 the great points of style of this coat or 
 jacket. New York might lay special claims. 
 
 This jacket is cut a good length at waist, 
 but not to the extreme that some have 
 been cut; it is 3^ inches below natural 
 waist, and 3 iu width at this part, the lull 
 length being 17 and 2O5, and 3O2 respec- 
 tively ; the back from natural waist to the 
 full length should be gently hollowed to 
 range nearly straight with construction 
 line ; a very little spring should also be 
 given to side seam below natural waist. 
 These garments being generally cut loose 
 and graceful, we give 1 of inch more to 
 width of back pitch, and deduct the same 
 off point of side seam marked 11, and al- 
 lowing only 1 of inch over diameter cross- 
 wise for seams ; the collar of these jackets 
 may be cut to roll them down to the natural 
 waist, or given a short roll, according to 
 the round of stand up of collar. In long 
 waists the spring of sidebody should be 
 gently hollowed, and made nearly to ar- 
 range with the construction line ; the spring 
 under arm, afcer crossing natural waist. 
 
Plate 6^!' 
 
Platk VI.] 
 
 19 
 
 should take its regular range of spring in 
 proportion to the length of waist ; the sido- 
 bod}' should be cut k of inch short, or i, 
 and stretched from one inch above natural 
 waist to the bottom, and care should be 
 taken to have the linings put in full, both 
 in length and breadth, over sidebody, par- 
 ticularly below the natural waist, as tight 
 linings would destroj' the whole ell"ect of 
 the spring. As these jackets are cut to 
 hang Hat in the short skirt, the spring of 
 skirt is put at Ih inches. The points of 
 construction of this coat are so nearly the 
 same as the previous one, with the excep- 
 tion of the length of waist and a wider roll 
 of breast, that further comments will be 
 deemed unnecessar}-. 
 
 Figures 5 and 6 are the diagrams of a 
 New York jacket ; as this jacket is of the 
 sack species, although laid out on the frock 
 principle, we will show the manner of 
 drafting it by the measures. The following 
 is the measure : diameter crosswise, -Ih ; 
 lengthwise, 5 2 ; shoulder measure, 121 : 
 blade, 17 ; sj'e measure, 111 ; eliptic, 13 ; 
 depth of sye on back, 82 ; natural waist, 
 17 ; full length, 21 ; skirt, 2Si 
 
 How TO Draft Back, Figure 5. — Draw 
 construction line from to 28i, mark in- 
 side from construction line at natural waist 
 la inches, draw back line from by li, 
 sfjuare in top ; then mark depth of sye on 
 back Si, and natural waist 17, full length 
 21, lay on elbow of square at 3 and mark 
 tliameter lengthwise by 3, then mark up 
 from 8i-li to 61, or 3 inch less than coats 
 cut through tiie waist, (as we give I of inch 
 more length in coats of this kind than those 
 wliichare cut through the waist, we place 
 h inch of the extra material at bottom of 
 back pitch as at 6|, and the otiier k at the 
 top of sideseam at 2, which is i)laced 1 of 
 inch higher, and h inch further in ; this 
 is necessary to provide for the fact that 
 when the iish under arm is taken out and 
 
 the pieces joined together, it will throw out 
 the sideseam h inch, and draw it down from 
 top, to nearly the same amount, and hence 
 we divide the extra material as we have 
 herein described.) Then mark the line of 
 shoulder at 4, so as to produce square 
 shoulders, square these lines across the 
 upper lines by back line, and the waist 
 lines by construction line, then lay on your 
 sye measure 111, on line bottom of pitch ; 
 deduct your diameter crosswise, 4^ oft', 
 leaving 71, the i of inch for making up. 
 We add to back in this kind of coat, mak- 
 ing it 7^, then add 1 inch extra to top of 
 pitch to 83, mark on top 2^, and then up 
 for spring 3, mark width of back at natural 
 waist 31 to 41, and at bottom 5, form back 
 from to 3, shoulder from 2 to 83, pitch 
 from 83 to 75, side from 73 by 41, skirt as 
 model ; the back below natural waist should 
 have a gentle curve, as represented. 
 
 How TO Draught Forepart, Figure 0. 
 — Draw construction line from to 31, 
 then mark down from your shoulder 
 measure 101, to bottom of sye with width 
 of top of back, 21 included, making 121, 
 thus allowing 3 inch for making up, then 
 mark your diameter lengthwise, at 4|, b}' 
 back from bottom of sye, and depth of 
 shoulder at 3, also by back, mark up from 
 lOl to 71 at top of sidebody, A inch higher, 
 as we have already described on back ; 31 
 is the point where the blade measure places 
 the point of shoulder, then square these 
 lines across, mark on top from your s^'e 
 measure II3 inches, but these jackets be- 
 ing made of rough coating and should be 
 cut easy, we have placed it at 111, then 
 divide the sj'e measure with 3 inch in front 
 for seams, to O3, and draw these lines down 
 to bottom of sj'e, then mark on line of pitch 
 from front of sye, your diameter crosswise. 
 No allowance, is given, it being given on 
 the back ; then mark the length of your 
 sideseam bj^ back from 2 to natural waist. 
 
20 
 
 [Plate VI. 
 
 and full length to 223, scjuare these lines 
 across. It is very difficult to take an elip- 
 tic measure correctly in coats of this kind, 
 but the sideseam should seldom come inside 
 of construction line at bottom. The follow- 
 ing is a good plan ; draw the line front of 
 sye down to flap head, and take a measure 
 over the loins, and apply one half the 
 measure, as from Qk, with width of back 
 included, with h inch added for seams, then 
 lay on your back to form shoulder, centre 
 point at 71, touching centre line, and point 
 82 at the same time ; apply blade measure 
 and form shoulder to conform with this 
 measure, then lay your back on the bottom 
 of pitch, resting I of inch outside from 2, 
 
 and 4i of back resting at I of forepart, 
 trace a line along the side of back, and 
 form 3'our sideseam as model, turning it into 
 a hollow at natural waist, and bottom of 
 skirt as model ; then form your sye from 
 point of shoulder to point of sideseam, in 
 accordance with the principle laid down in 
 frock, crossing the line 2 J inches each way 
 from G3, and inside from corner, I, mark 
 in front of sj^e h breast, with 11 or 2 inches 
 added to 171, and sweep by front of sj'e 
 from 171 to ISs, and form neck-gorge 
 from 83 to 151, and front from 15 5 by 171- 
 172-173-132, and bottom from ISh to 31, 
 take out fish under arm, and Y at neck- 
 gorge and finish forepart. 
 
Plate 7*1 
 
 th 
 
 ft>,f 
 
 12'-' Hi 
 
 /I 
 
 
 4 
 
 / : 
 
 
 - i 
 
 2^4 
 
 8^4 
 B.18. 
 VSM6. 
 
 u/Zioia e*^, 
 
 "v.- 
 
 ^■J 
 
 v:'-^*^ 
 
 2^8 
 
Description of Plate VII. 
 
 tS til is plate is exclusively^ devoted to 
 J surtout overcoats, and as the meas- 
 
 ^ ure and manner of drafting is the 
 same as frock coat, we shall confine oar 
 explanation to the extra allowance given 
 to the measures in drafting these styles of 
 garments, and in order to do so we will 
 first give the measures and the allowances, 
 and then show their application. . 
 
 Diameter lengthwise, 5?, 3 inch added, 
 51 ; crosswise, 4?, h added, 41 ; shoulder 
 measure, 121, 1 added, 131 ; blade 17, I 
 added, 171; sye measure, llh, 1 added, 
 12i ; eliptic, 131, 1 added, 13^ ; depth of 
 sye on back, 83, i inch added, 9, the i 
 inch to be given in diameter lengthwise ; 
 proof centre remains the same; centre point 
 has 3 inch added ; natural waist remains 
 the same, full length likewise, front of 
 breast is h breast measure, the breast has 
 thus 1 inch added in the above measure, 
 the waist should have 1 inch for overcoat 
 and I2 for linings, if wadded ; the sleeve 
 should be cut to the measure. 
 
 Description of back. Figure 1 : From 
 on top to bottom of sye has h inch added, 
 making 9, and the I inch is all given in the 
 diameter, making 51, the depth of shoulder 
 remaining the same as inside coat ; on bot- 
 tom of pitch the S3'C measure has 1 inch 
 added, making 12 3, one half being added 
 to diameter crosswise, and the other to 
 width of back. In sacks that are required 
 verj' loose we add 1 to width of back at 
 pitch ; the width of back at natural waist 
 is about 3, or according to fashion. 
 
 We will now describe forepart. Figure 
 0. It will be perceived by looking at bot- 
 tom of sye on forepart and width of top of 
 back that the 3 inch has been added to 
 shoulder measure, with A inch for making 
 up, thus making 131 inches, also the 1 is 
 added to the sye measure, making 123, and 
 that the 12^ is divided, with 3 inch thrown 
 to front, at Gl for seams, and also the di- 
 ameter crosswise with the 2 inch added, 
 making in all 41, establishes the point of 
 sideseam at 2, the sideseam is also form- 
 ed in the same manner as frock ; by the 
 application of the eliptic measure, with 1 
 or i of inch added, the centre line is pro- 
 duced the same way, 3 diameter crosswise, 
 with 3 the extra allowance also divided, 
 and the shoulder is formed by the line, 
 proof centre and the centre point at 81, 
 being placed on centre line and applying 
 the blade measure with the 1 added, or 171; 
 for overcoat there should be added 33 at 
 waist ; the neck gorge of overcoat requiring 
 to be higher in consequence of being but- 
 toned up occasionally, should be marked 
 at 23 or 21 inches down from 122 at top, 
 and gorge formed accordingly. 
 
 We will now proceed and draft forepart, 
 Figure 9, there is very little connected 
 with this forepart difi'erent from the other, 
 except the lapel being growing too, and in 
 very heavy goods it is much more appro- 
 priate ; these two foreparts are essentially 
 alike, with the following exceptions : the 
 sye measure in this case is laid down at 
 111, the extra 1 being given in the diame- 
 
[Plate VII. 
 
 ter of tlic sye. We will proceed and show 
 how to draught (he front, wherein it dif- 
 fers from the other forepart : mark A the 
 breast measure from 3 to 10, sweep from 
 IG to 1-43 by 3, take out Y of 1 inch from 
 14i to 152, then 3| to 181, then 3| to 191, 
 apply measure at natural waist, allowing 
 3i inches for making up, including Y, and 
 then form your front by those numbers. 
 
 How TO DiiAtTonT Skirt, Fiuure 8. — 
 Draw construction line from to Idh, 
 mark down from 21 and 83, measure 
 carefully the width of your waist, and 
 apply it from 21 to 20, including 1 inch 
 over for making up, then lay elbow of 
 square on 20 with long arm resting on 21, 
 and draw spring of skirt ; draw line from 
 21, to 20, or top of skirt, and hollow 3 
 inch, lay bottom of sidebod}' in a joining 
 position at 20, and round plait of skirt to 
 correspond with sideseam about 3 inches 
 up, mark length of skirt by that of back, 
 the front 3 inch less than behind, and give 
 it the same round as that of waist. The 
 sleeve. Figure 4, is drafted in the follow- 
 ing way : First measure around the sj'e of 
 
 your forepart, suppose it to be 18 inches, 
 then draw your construction line from to 
 33, to 20 fs length of elbow, then mark 
 the distance on forepart from 8 to IO3, 
 or 2.2, and h the distance on back from 
 41 to 63, which is H, add 23 and i 
 together, make 31, deduct 1 for joining 
 of sideseam, and you have got 31 ; from 
 middle of pitch or back arm seam to bot- 
 tom of sye, then mark down 3| to 31, draw 
 lines from 31 to 9, and also 20 to 9, which 
 is 3 the S3'e measure ; then draw line from 
 to 9 or 91, divide that in halves to 3, 
 mark h of same from 3 to 31, and sweep 
 from to 9 by 31, and straighten the curve 
 a little towards the forearm ; draw hair 
 line of ibrearm from 9 at top to 9 at bot- 
 tom, sweep from 33 at bottom to 9 by 0, 
 mark frpm 9 at bottom to 62, the width of 
 3'our bottom, mark 1 inside to 81, and out- 
 side 1 and form forearm, from 9 by 1 to 9, 
 and backarra from by 1 to 63 at bottom, 
 for underside, mark 3 your sye from 9 at 
 front to 1 behind, and form v'our under- 
 side as model ; the collar 6, and the lapel 7, 
 are drafted by the scale corresponding with 
 the breast measure. 
 
TlciUdth 
 
Description of Plate VIII. 
 
 j"]|\N Figures 1, 2, 3, is Uie diogram of a 
 '°|Jy' single breasted sack coat, it is drafted 
 "■!■ to the following measure : diameter 
 crosswise, 43, lengthwise, 51, shoulder 
 measure 121, blade 17, sye measure' HI. 
 It is marked llA, but should be 111, depth 
 of s_ye on back 8h, natural M'aist 17, full 
 length 19, skirt 30, breast 18, waist 10. 
 
 How TO Draught Back, Figure 3. — 
 Draw construction line from to 30, lay 
 on elbow of square at 0, and draw back 
 line from b}" h, then mark down from 
 depth of sye 82, lay on diameter length- 
 wise on back line, 51 on 83, and draw line 
 depth of shoulder from 31, then divide di- 
 ameter, say 21 or centre, mark 3 inch be- 
 low centre for bottom of pitch at 61, then 
 mark up from 61 to 4, 21 inches for top 
 line of pitch or according to fashion, then 
 mark down from natural waist 17, and 
 full length 19, square the uijper lines by 
 back line, and waist lines by construction 
 line, lay on your sye measure at back line 
 at 83, 111, and deduct your diameter 
 crosswise off 4, from 111, leaving 71, to 
 which we add h inch for seams to 81, draw 
 hair line from 71 up to top of pitch, and add 
 1 inch inside to 81, mark inside from at top 
 21, raise top i for spring, form top from to 
 I, as model, and shoulder from I to 8| from 
 81 by 71 to 81, from 71 to 81 is I inch add- 
 ed to S3'e measure for seams, mark width 
 of bottom inches, draw line from 81 to 6 
 and form sideseam by 7 or 2 inside from 8, 
 and form out your back seam as model 
 from 2 to 30, the diameter crosswise is 
 placed here with 3 diameter at 2g, and 1 
 inch down from line, for the purpose of 
 forming back, and also showing the 1 inch 
 extra which back of sack requires more 
 than other coats, as given from 10 to 9 at 
 point of side of forepart. 
 
 How TO Draught Forepart, Figure 1. 
 — Draw construction line from to 30|, 
 square in top, mark down from your 
 shoulder measure to 10 with lop of back 
 
 2'i added, making 121, the shoulder meas- 
 ure being 121, thus allowing h inch extra 
 for making up, then lay on back 81 on 10, 
 and mark line of pitch and diameter length- 
 wise, 71 and 41 respectively-, and run back 
 up to top and mark line depth of shoulder 
 at 31, b}- that of back, then S(|uare those 
 lines across, mark length of waist on fore- 
 part by back, from 9 to 18, 20, by 81, 8, 
 and sijuare those lines across, also the line 
 231 or depth for flap, then mark from to 
 4, diameter crosswise with the h inch add 
 ed to back, from 71 to 81, to 101 is 3 sye 
 measure, then draw these lines to 4 and lOl 
 at bottom, then mark centre line, or .2 di- 
 ameter crosswise as at 2, and lay 011 back 
 Figure 2 as model, with line depth of shoul- 
 der touching centre line and top of back 
 at B, touching top line at 61, apply your 
 blade measure from bottom of sye over 
 shoulder to 83, or blade measure to 17, add 
 1 of inch for making up, aiid form shoulder 
 of forepart, according to model. In all 
 sack coats, unless in very erect structures, 
 we let the point of shoulder touch construc- 
 tion line at 31 and in erect structures we 
 use the line depth of shoulder, instead of 
 proof centre, in all sack coats, as it makes 
 the shoulder a little straighter, and braces 
 them up a little more in front, then add 1 
 inch up from 10 to 9 at side, mark I out- 
 side from 18 at natural waist, and mark 
 22 at bottom, and form sideseam as model, 
 mark on front ot breast from 3 to 141, 3 
 breast, with 11 inches added, sweep from 
 141 to 133 by 3, in front of sye, draw line 
 from I3 to 132, and form neck gorge as 
 model, the Figure 3 marked on either side 
 of 4 at bottom, is 1 the sye measure placed 
 on either side of corner, for crossing the 
 lines in forming sye, then form sye by 
 shoulder point at 31, by 3, 4, 3 to 9, square 
 in bottom Irom 301 to 141 at front, draw 
 line from 141 at front of breast to 141 at 
 bottom, mark 1 inch in front to 151, then 
 form front and bottom as follows : from 132 
 by 141, 151, 151, 15^, 121, to 2i, and 
 complete sack coat. 
 
Description of Plate IX. 
 
 #N Figure 2, 3, 4 of this plate we have 
 ' two ditferent styles of a New York 
 "? jacket, the same back being adapted 
 to either forepart. These jackets are both 
 drafted to the same measure, and are both 
 laid out on the frock principle, and we do 
 not propose to go over the system with 
 these jackets, but simply to refer the reader 
 to Figures 5 and 6, on plate YI. ; where we 
 have given a verj" ample explanation of a 
 single breasted jacket of the same style. 
 Our explanation in this case, shall, there- 
 fore be directed in showing how to draft 
 the double breast. The shoulder of Figure 
 4 is established by the centre point and 
 that of Figure 2 by line depth of shoulder. 
 It will be perceived that the line depth of 
 shoulder produces a straight shoulder, 
 which some of our patrons may prefer in 
 this style of coat ; they can try both prin- 
 ciples and adopt that which they like the 
 best. They are both cut double breasted, 
 the one being pointed lapel with square 
 bottom, and the other with curved lapel 
 and curved bottom ; there is no extra al- 
 lowance given to diameter crosswise at 
 poiut of side of these jackets, for the fol- 
 lowing reason : that when the fish under 
 arm is joined, it will throw it, the point of 
 side, out 3 inch, and draw it down to the 
 same amount ; besides we have added h 
 extra to pitch of back at 7 3, at sideseam 
 on Figure 2 ; from front of sye to lapel is 
 2 breast to 15 2, and width of lapel 31 to 
 181 ; sweep from 15h to 131, take out Y 
 to 143, add 3 inches to 11 h or top of lapel, 
 then mark I83 in front, at natural waist, 
 and at full length 171 ; bottom 123 ; and 
 form the front as model. In Figure 1 the 
 front of breast and lapel is 1 less, being 
 151 and I83 ; 18 in front at natural waist, 
 and 143 at bottom ; and is formed by the 
 numbers in front in the same way we have 
 described. The hollow at sideseam of 
 these styles of jackets should be stretched 
 8 of an inch at h, at natural waist, before 
 joining, and cut that much short at 231, 
 and the lining kept full oversidebody. By 
 a strict observance of the manner of draft- 
 ing these jackets in connection with Fig- 
 
 ures 5 and 6, plate YI., will enable the read- 
 er to draft one of these jackets as easy as 
 any other coat. 
 
 Figures 1 and 5 are the diagrams of a 
 reefer or pea jacket. This jacket is draft- 
 ed to the same measure as that of the other 
 two jackets, excepting sye measure, which 
 is 1 of inch more in this case than the others, 
 the following is the measure : diameter 
 lengthwise, 53; crosswise,, 41; shoulder 121; 
 blade, 171; sye measure, 111 ; the other 
 jackets II3 ; depth of proof centre, 11 ; cen- 
 tre point, 7i ; depth of sye on back, 8 3 ; nat- 
 ural waist, 17; full length in Figures 2 and 4, 
 21; in Figure 1, 283; length of skirt in each 
 30. In the sye measure of these jackets, 
 the reader may think we have only allowed 
 1 of inch extra for making up, but such is 
 not the fact, as when the lish under arm is 
 joined it will throw out the point of side 
 at 2 and 9, from 1 to 3 inch, which adds 
 so much to the sjg measure. In back. 
 Figure 1. the 2 inch added to the sye 
 measure for making up, is given to the 
 width of back at pitch, to 71 ; the line of 
 proof centre is not used in this jacket ; but 
 the line depth of shoulder, as marked on 
 Figure 3, on back, placed for forming 
 shoulder marked by hair lines ; the step 
 at 232 on back, may be omitted in this 
 jacket, according to fashion, and at the will 
 of the cutter ; the back line is marked in I 
 at natural waist, and § at step. The width 
 of back at natural waist is 6 inches, and at 
 bottom 61 ; the front of breast in the same 
 Avay as that of Figure 4, excepting that 
 the front is drawn straight from 161 in 
 front of breast, to 161 at bottom. In some 
 cases half inch more might be added at 
 bottom. At natural waist of forepart. Fig- 
 ure 5, the side is outside of construction 
 line 1 of inch, and at plait 11, and at bot- 
 tom 23 ; this point is regulated a good 
 deal by fashion. They are made to lit 
 rather close at this point, at the present 
 time. Figure 25 is for locating the top 
 of plait, and also of flap ; the other 
 points of the diagram seem so conspic- 
 uous, that further comments are thought 
 unnecessarv. 
 
ruue 
 
2G 
 
 [Plate X. 
 
 dci)tli of shoulder, and therefore has uoth- 
 iiig added. But we mostly keep the point 
 of shoulder at construction line, at 42, and 
 the front point touching lop line as at 7 ; 
 then appl}'' blade measure with i of inch 
 added for overcoat, and if there is any 
 filling up of shoulder, sufficient for that 
 purpose, and form shoulder to correspond 
 with your measure. Then mark I outside 
 at natural waist, and li outside from 25i, 
 and 3i at bottom ; and form side seam 
 from 9? by % to oh at bottom, and sye from 
 42 by 3, 4.1, 3, 91 ; then draw line from 
 ll to 122, and form neck-gorge as model ; 
 then take out V of 1 of inch, as from 121 
 to 13 : then mark in front of sj'e from 3 to 
 13i, 3 breast measure ; sweep from-13i to 
 121 at top ; take out V as to 13 ; mark 
 width of lapel from lo^ to 17, or 3^ inches 
 and 3 at top, from 13 to 16 ; draw line 
 from 171 to 171 at bottom ; add 1 inch out- 
 side, as to 18 ; and draw front line from 
 171 to 18, by 172 and 17t ; then draw 
 bottom line on the square, front and rear ; 
 mark down from line 1 of inch, and form 
 
 bottom, from 1 to oA ; take out fish, as from 
 22 to 5 as model, and finish forepart. 
 
 Figure 6 is the diagram of single breast- 
 ed over sack, and is drafted to the same 
 measure, with the following exceptions. It 
 is but 2 inches shorter ; the diameter in 
 this forepart is marked at 42, and the back 
 at 9, 8, 82, should be reduced 1 of inch re- 
 spectivelj' ; the 161 at bottom is in the 
 wrong place, as it applies to the front hair 
 line ; the front of breast is 2 breast meas- 
 ure from front of sye ; and the lapel is 21 
 inches in width. When a straight sack is 
 required, the back line and side lines are 
 cnt straight, and no fish taken out under 
 arm. 
 
 The sleeve. Figure 4, is drafted in the 
 same way as that represented ou Figure 4, 
 plate VII. The distance in all cases from 
 to 31 should be from where back seam of 
 sleeve joins on back i)itch, which, in this 
 case, would be 1 inch above 8, and would 
 amount to 4, and therefore 1 of inch loo 
 short. 
 
PI a If // 
 
Description of Plate XL 
 
 J,N Plate XI. wc give two illustrations of 
 J the stooping strneturc, and also two 
 of the corpulent structure, and un- 
 der this class of structures may be enum- 
 erated all the various phases of what is 
 usually called deformities. We will con- 
 line our remarks to the corpulent structure 
 lirst. In the Kolb coat, Figures 2 aiul 8, 
 we have what is usually termed the pot- 
 bellied structure. The various phases of 
 this structure are the erect and extra erect, 
 with high shoulders, and the extra erect 
 stooping forward ; and under the head of 
 the Highara coat, we have three different 
 types of corpulency, namely : the st3'le 
 known as the high hip-boned structure with 
 high shoulders, whose stoutness is most be- 
 hind, also the long bodied of a similar 
 character, and also the structure which 
 carries his corpulencj' all around, and 
 is sometimes stooping. The Iligham coat 
 represents the latter phase, all but the 
 stooping. We will now proceed and give 
 the two measures, that the reader may be 
 enabled to look at the contrast, and the 
 natural result through the application of 
 the measures by the system. The following 
 is the Higham measure : diameter cross- 
 wise, 5? ; lengthwise, Ql ; shoulder meas- 
 ure, 141 ; blade, 201 ; sye measure, lih. ; 
 eliptic, 16 ; depth of sye on back, 10 ; 
 natural waist, 171 ; full length, 20 ; breast, 
 23a ; waist, 20. We will now give the 
 measure of the Kolb coat : diameter length- 
 wise, T inches ; crosswise, 6 ; shoulder 
 measure, 16 ; blade, 22| ; sye measure 15 ; 
 
 eliptic. Mi ; deplh of sye on l)ack, l(»i ; 
 natural waist, 18.V ; full length, 21 ; breast 
 243 ; waist, 25. The reader, by looking 
 at the diagrams of these two coats in con- 
 nection with the measure, will at once per- 
 ceive their peculiar adaptation to the 
 structures in question. In the Higham 
 coat we perceive the diagram of a structure 
 that never can redound much to the artistic 
 skill of the cutter, however much it may 
 to his practical judgment, for these are a 
 class of customers more difficult to (it than 
 are usually met with. In cases of extreme 
 corpulency, and when the body is gathered 
 up in a heap, the form is such an unshapely 
 mass that the cutter would most gladly 
 avoid it if he could, and yet men of this class 
 are very particular respecting the fit of their 
 garments, i^articularly as far as ease is con- 
 cerned, and, if it is not easy, everybody 
 will soon know it. But there is one type of 
 men in this phase of structure who wear 
 their clothes with neatness and in good 
 taste ; they are not only the most difiicult to 
 fit, but also to suit, that the cutter generally 
 meets with. We refer to the high shoul- 
 dered, short bodied, high hip-boned struc- 
 ture, whose cori)ulency is moderate in front, 
 but very prominent behind. Among this 
 class we have had some very talented men 
 of certain peculiar characteristics ; we 
 have had three very prominent members 
 of the trade, of this type, and who were 
 all men of talent. The long bodied struc- 
 ture of this type is usually high shouldered 
 and only moderately corpulent in front. 
 
30 
 
 [Plate XL 
 
 to solve that question — when you come 
 across a customer of this kind, establish 
 jt»ur centre point on the top of shoulder by 
 a chalk mark, and from said centre point, 
 applj' a measure first to the socket bone, 
 next to the centre of diameter, or a point 
 about the same distance down, established 
 on back, and also to the bottom of sye on 
 back ; these measures should be applied 
 from the centre point as model, first to the 
 bottom of sye on back, I extra should be 
 added next to the point at centre, and h 
 inch should be added next to the socket 
 bone, 8, and h inch should be added ; the 
 back and shoulder should be rounded and 
 
 formed in connection with these measures, 
 and in the case Avhere there is a liump on 
 back, take the depth of the prominent part 
 of the hump from socket bone, and apply 
 the above measures from centre, and thus 
 be able to ascertain the amount of roundness 
 to give to shoulder and back seam. We 
 give above the name, of this class of 
 structures as deformities instead of misfits, 
 as we do not intend there will be auj of 
 the latter, and it displays the artistic abil- 
 ity of the cutter to be enabled lo neutral- 
 ize the strong points of the former so as 
 not to appear conspicuous. 
 
 I 
 
-pia,t^ n ^y 
 
 3(P-2 
 
Description of Plate XII. 
 
 J'^^IGURES 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 are the diagrams 
 ^ of a Garrick or Inverness cape. There 
 arc two different styles of cloak represented 
 on Figure 2, the one with sleeve and tlie 
 ■ other without : the one without is fornied by 
 tlie Figures 11, 82 to I62, and is laid down 
 to be drafted by the scale corresponding 
 with the breast measure taken over the 
 vest, the extra allowance being given in the 
 diagram ; and in case some of our readers 
 may not know how to use the scale, we 
 will select scale 18, and proceed to draft 
 this garment. To draft back, Figure 
 1, — draw back line from to 38, square in 
 top ; mark down from by the scale, S, 
 5, 10, 37, 38, s(|uare these lines across ; 
 mark on top line, 3 ; second line, 8s ; third 
 line, IOt ; bottom, loi ; draw dotted line 
 from IOt to 13^ ; and form top of back 
 from H to 3 ; shoulder from 3 to 8g ; and 
 side by 101 to 13i ; bottom from 38 to 
 13i. To draft forepart, Figure 2, — draw 
 construction line from to 37 ; mark 
 down from 0, II, 21, 3|, Gl, 7, 11, 121, 26, 
 30, 37 ; square these lines across ; mark 
 inside, on top line, 43 ; second line, 13! ; 
 third lino, 11 and ISl inside, and 11 out- 
 side ; fourth line, 15 ; fifth line, 83, 141 ; 
 sixth line, 82 ; 14? inside, and 2 outside ; 
 seventh line is depth of pocket flap; eighth 
 line, 21 2 inside, and 2 outside ; draw lines 
 from 4j to 131, and from lo to 21 3 ; draw 
 the short lines from 131 to 131, and from 
 141 to 15 respectively, and curve shoulder 
 j)oint out to 181 ; then form sj'e by 131, 
 83 in front and 83 at bottom, to 141 at 
 side ; nuTrk neck-gorge from 4-3 b}^ 21 to 
 It, and front and bottom as model. 
 
 To Draft Capk, Ficl're 3. — Draw con- 
 slruclion line from to 30-2, square in 
 
 top ; mark down from at top 2'i, 23, 30 i ; 
 s(|uare these lines across ; mark inside at 
 top, 43 ; second line, 11 ; 33 inside, and 
 
 11 outside ; third line, 23 inside, and 11 
 outside ; mark up from 11, 2 inches, and 
 form the shoulder fi'om lA to 2, liy fore- 
 part ; then draw straight line from 2 to 
 I3 ; sweep from SOi to 23, by 3 tlio dis- 
 tance from to 4.3 : and from 23 to 30 3 by 
 43 ; and form front as model. 
 
 To Draft Sleeve, Figure 3. — Draw con- 
 struction line from to 27, square in top ; 
 mark down from 0, 11, 5, 14, 20, 27, square 
 tliese lines across ; mark on top line, 5, 
 101 ; second line, 10, 11 ; fourth line, 11, 
 
 12 ; bottom, 7 ; draw line from 101 to 11; 
 and from 11 to 7 ; and form the outside of 
 sleeve by 11, 12, 7; and forearm by 5, 1, 
 26 ; bottom from 26 to 7 ; sleeve-head by 
 11 ; 5 at top to 5 at forearm, and under- 
 side as model. The collar is drafted the 
 same way, and a larger or smaller scale, 
 gives a larger or smaller pattern. The 
 line running up from front of syc on shoul- 
 der to 11 ; and also from bottom of sye to 
 side at ICl, is indicating a Garrick without 
 sleeve ; these points need not be added on 
 in such case. To join it together, the 
 point 131 and 131 should be joined to the 
 point 141 and lo ; and then the sleeve 
 should be jnit in ; then the cape. Figure 3, 
 should be baisted on along the neck-gorge 
 and down the side ; and then the back, 
 Figure 1, should be joined to that of fore- 
 part, 3 on back to point lA on shoulder, 
 sewing the three pieces together as far 
 down the side as the cape goes, and the 
 back and forepart to the bottom. The 
 step of cape is cut 3 inch -narrower than 
 forepart, and when there is a iiyput in 
 front, it should be in the cape. 
 
Description of Plate XIII. 
 
 ^tllLATE XIII. represents what is geiic- 
 1l1 rally known as the King Williani 
 * Cloak, with sleeves. This cloak, we 
 believe, is correct in all its points ; a slight 
 curve might be given to front. The back, 
 forepart, and collar are drafted in the usual 
 wny by the scale (which we have described 
 on Plate XII., on Inverness Cape), cor- 
 responding with the breast measure taken 
 over the vest, the extra allowance being 
 given in the diagram. To draft the 
 cape and sleeve, draw construction line 
 from to 29, mark down fi'om the num- 
 bers on said line, draw the line 2?, and 
 mark the numbers 7, 10, 13.1, and square 
 up to 3s, then draw line from 4^ to 91, 
 and also from 6 to 11, I62, ITi, ISs,- and 
 draw the lines on the square by said num- 
 bers, first to 81, IGg, next 81, next 12, 
 IGs ; draw line on scpiare from 83 to lOl 
 
 and 201, and square out the line from lOl 
 to 7, or elbow, then draw lines from lit 
 to I83 and from lih to 30g, sweep from 
 20 to 30 8 by '•' mark at 3s, and form bot- 
 tom of sleeve from 301 to 34:1 to 201, 
 then form back arm seam from 9'l by 11, 
 I82 to 30s, and back arm from 16s b}' 7 
 to 201, and sleeve head from 91 hy 10, 31, 
 81, 8b, 12, IGs, and draw forearm from 
 8s to 341. In putting this cloak togellier 
 it will be seen that the cape must be basted 
 on the back and joined to the shoulder of 
 forepart, and then the sleeve-head from 
 8s on forepart to 91 on back, which is the 
 same point. The underside sleeve is 
 fastened to the lining by means of a bind- 
 ing. It should have a fly down the front, 
 and the edges should be fini.shed with a 
 wide silk braid. 
 
riuic /'/ 
 
 161 16- 
 
FUUe /4 
 
33 
 
 Description of Plate XIV. 
 
 J, I ^^IS Plate represents a King William 
 il'l ; (Hoak witlaout sleeves. It is cut 
 single-breasted, has a fly clown the 
 front, and is intended to button close up 
 to the neck. When a roll of breast is in- 
 tended, an addition should be given to the 
 front. This garment is much worn b}'- 
 many for travelling purposes, and is a very 
 handy garment for business men in going 
 to and from their business. It is drafted 
 in the usual way, by the scale correspond- 
 ing with the breast measure taken over 
 the vest, the extra allowance being given 
 in the diagram. The reader will see at a 
 
 glance how the cloak is put together. The 
 cape. Figure 1, is basted on the back, Fig- 
 ure 4, the shoulders joining to that of fore- 
 part, and the sleeve-head, or wing, sewed 
 into the sye and drawn down the side as 
 far as it goes; the point, II3 on back, 
 should join the point 13? on forepart, and 
 also the notcli at side of back to notch at 
 side of back to notch at 15 i on side of fore- 
 part. It closes with a fly down the front 
 as represented ; the hollowed part of col- 
 lar is sewed to the neck-gorge, but before 
 sewing to, it should be stretched and the 
 crease shrunken in. 
 
34 
 
 Description of Plate XV. 
 
 ^jgOW to draft half circular cloak, draw 
 iJJjHJ] line from 8 on top to 42 at bottom ; 
 
 ' mark down from 8 to 0, 8 inches or the 
 width of neck, square in top or front of 
 cloak. For taking the fish out of neclc, 
 square inside from to 82, and raise up 1 
 inch, same as back of King William : then 
 draw line of shoulder to bottom at 44 by 
 4, or 5 neck ; then mark down from 0. 51 
 and square out to lOj ; then mark 4 inches 
 down on front and 10, draw line from 4 in 
 front b}' 62 to 10 down on shoulder, and 
 then form curve of shoulder from 62 to 101 ; 
 sweep front of neck from 5 2 to 10 by 4 in 
 front, and bottom from 42 to 44 by 4 on 
 top, and from 44 to 41 b}^ 62 ; then add 1 
 inch for step in front, as represented by 
 dotted line. The scale can also be used 
 for this cloak. 
 
 How to draft three quarter circular 
 cloak, Figure 3 — draw back line from 4 to 
 42, and square in top from 4 to 432; from 
 to 4 is half the neck measure, square in- 
 side from 0, 82 inches, mark 1 inch up and 
 sweep the neck from 0, 1, 2 by 4 ; straight- 
 en the curve 2 inch down at front, then 
 measure the length of neck-gorge, which 
 should be 2 or 2\ inches more than tight 
 
 measure of neck, which would L-e 10 or IO2, 
 and usually divides the neck equally in 
 three parts, or three quarter circular, and 
 draw front line from 4 b}' 2 to 4O2, curve 
 front as model, sweep from 42 to 432 l\y 1, 
 and from 432 to 432 by 4, and from 432 
 to 41 by 2 : the collar, Figure 2, is adapted 
 to either of these cloaks. 
 
 Figure 4 is the diagram of a Russian 
 Hood, which may be worn with any over 
 garment. It is drafted by the scale cor- 
 responding witli the breast measure from 
 the line of construction, which runs from 
 to 241 ; square in top to lOi, and estab- 
 lish all the other points bj- the scale and 
 the numbers on the diagram, and form as 
 model. To put the bood together, seam 
 up the cuts on the neck first ; from 7-3 to 
 24 T is on the crease ; then seam it along 
 the bottom and open up the crease, and 
 place the number 16 on 72 ; put a binding 
 an inch wide around the neck-gorge, so as 
 to contain holes to button under the stand- 
 up of the collar. The part from IO2 to 10 
 should have a large turn in, so as to allow 
 of a small ribbon or a piece of India-rub- 
 ber to run through it, to confine it inclose 
 to the neck or for use when required. 
 
Flute /5 
 
 "I-ik 42 
 

Plate 1G 
 
Description of Plate XVI. 
 
 MILITARY 
 
 J^T'IGURES 1, 2, 3, 4, with 9 on plate 
 XVn. are the diagrams of a militaiy 
 ^ cloak or coat. It should be of dark blue 
 cloth, and closed by means of four frog but- 
 tons of black silk, and also i loops of black 
 silk cord down the front, as represented on 
 diagram, and at the throat b}- a long loop 
 (/ Exhille, without tassel or plait, on the 
 left side, and a black silk frog button on 
 the right ; the cord for the loops should be 
 fifteen hundredths of an inch in diameter, 
 the back is without seam, but is cut up 
 from 15 to 17 inches, in proportion to the 
 length, and a fly set in with 7 buttons and 
 holes ; collar of the same color and mate- 
 rial as the coat ; the edges should be 
 slightly rounded off, and should be made 
 to either stand or fall, and when standing, 
 to be about 5 inches wide, sleeve loose, 
 of a single piece, and round at the bottom, 
 without cuft' or vent ; the linings should be 
 of woolen. There should be a black silk 
 braid about half inch wide sewed flat on 
 the edges, and also the pockets ; and 
 around each frog button on the breast a 
 knot two and one quarter inches diameter, 
 of black silk cord, seven hundredths of 
 an inch in diameter, arranged in accord- 
 ance with the drawing on diagram. The 
 cape is of the same color and material, and 
 can be removed at the pleasure of the 
 wearer, and should reach to the bottom of 
 sleeve when the arm is extended ; the 
 length of the cloak should be from G to 8 
 inches below the knee, or in proportion to 
 height, to indicate the rank ; there will be 
 on both sleeves, near the lower edge, a 
 knot of flat black silk braid, not exceeding 
 8 of an inch in width, arranged to corres- 
 pond with the drawing, and composed as 
 follows : 
 
 For a General — of five braids, double 
 knot. 
 
 For a Colonel — of five braids, single 
 knot. 
 
 For a Lieutexant-Colonel — of four 
 braids, single knot. 
 
 For a Ma.tor — of three braids, single 
 knot. 
 
 For a Captain — of two braids, single 
 knot. 
 
 For a First Lieutenant — of one braid, 
 single knot. 
 
 For a Second Lieutenant and Brevet 
 Second Lieutenant — a plain sleeve, with- 
 out knot or ornament. 
 
 This cloak is drafted in the usual way 
 from the line of construction b}' the num- 
 bers on the diagram, corresponding with 
 those of the scale. We will now finish 
 military cloak by showing how to draft cape 
 in plate XVIIL Lay back and forepart 
 in a joining position at shoulder, then mark 
 around the neck and down the back the 
 length you wish to cut the cape, say 31 
 inches ; then give it the same shape as 
 front of forepart ; it should be a little fuller, 
 it having to fit over the cloak ; carry out 
 shoulder line to bottom of cape, give it 
 li more over shoulder than behind, and 
 1 less in front than behind, and sweep 
 the bottom from 38 to 15 by 44, and from 
 15 to 322 by U, and from 322 to oOi by 
 3. This cape can also be drafted by the 
 scale. The ornament on sleeve, with three 
 braids, should be carried along the bottom 
 of underside, as represented. 
 
 For all other officers, dark blue close 
 fitting double-breasted surtout coat, with a 
 cape made to detach from the coat, and fall 
 to the tips of the fingers, when the arm 
 and hand are extended, the skirt of the 
 coat for mounted officers to reach half way 
 between the knee and the sole of the foot. 
 For dismounted officers, three inches below 
 the knee. This coat should have 7 buttons 
 on each breast, of the same pattern as 
 those on the uniform coat ; the insio-nia of 
 rank are the same as the cloak. 
 
36 
 
 Description of Plate XVII. 
 
 COATS— FULL DllESS. 
 
 For Officers.^ — All officers shall wear 
 a double-breasted frock coat of dark blue 
 cloth, the skirt to extend from one half to 
 three fourths the distance from the hip 
 joint to the bend of the knee. 
 
 For a General. — Two rows of but- 
 tons on the breast, twelve in each row, 
 placed by fours, the distance between each 
 row five and one half inches at top, and 
 three and one half inches at bottom ; stand 
 up collar, not less than one nor more than 
 two inches in height, to hook in front at 
 the bottom, and slope thence up and back- 
 ward at an angle of thirty degrees on each 
 side, corners rounded ; cuffs three inches 
 deep, to go around the sleeves parallel with 
 the lower edge, and with three small but- 
 tons at the under seam ; pockets in the 
 folds of the skirt, with two buttons at the 
 hips and one at the lower end of each side- 
 edge, making four buttons on the back and 
 skirt of the coat ; collar and cuffs to be of 
 dark blue velvet ; lining of the coat black. 
 
 For a Lieuten-ant General. — The 
 same as for a general, except that there 
 will be ten buttons in each row on the 
 breast, the upper and the lower groups by 
 threes, and the middle groups by fours. 
 
 For a Major General. — The same as 
 for a general, except that there will be 
 nine buttons in each row on the breast, 
 I^laced by threes. 
 
 For a Brigadier General.— The same 
 as for a general, except that there will be 
 
 eight buttons in each row, on the breast, 
 placed by pairs. 
 
 For a Colonel, Lieutenant Colonel, 
 AND Major. — The same as for a general, 
 except that there will be nine buttons in 
 each row on the breast, placed at equal 
 distances ; collars and cuffs of the same 
 color and material as the coat. The upper 
 half of the cuffs to be ornamented with 
 three double stripes of gold braid running 
 the length of the cuff, pointed at their 
 upper ends, and with a small button below 
 the point of each stripe, according to pat- 
 tern. 
 
 For a Captain, 1st Lieutenant, 2nd 
 Lieutenant, and an additional 2nd 
 Lieutenant. — The same as for a colonel, 
 except that there will be seven buttons in 
 each row on the breast, and two stripes 
 on the cuffs. 
 
 For all Storekeepers. — A single- 
 breasted coat, as lately Avorn by captains 
 of the staff, with staff shoulder-straps to 
 indicate rank. 
 
 This coat shall be worn on all dress oc- 
 casions, such as reviews, inspections, dress 
 parades, guards, and courts-martial. It 
 will be habitually worn at battalion drills, 
 except in hot weather, or when otherwise 
 exceptionally directed by the commanding 
 officer. 
 
 Figures 1, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, on Plate XVII. 
 are the diagrams ot single and double- 
 breasted military coat, and are drafted b}^ 
 the system to the following measure : di- 
 ameter lengthwise, 5t ; crosswise, 4t ; 
 
J'ir-' 
 
Plate XVII.'] 
 
 37 
 
 shoulder, 121; blade, 171; sye, II5; clip- 
 tic, 131 ; depth of sye on back, 8 s ; nat- 
 ural waist, 171 ; full length, 19 ; to bottom 
 of skirt, 36 ; breast, 18 ; waist, 10 ; collar, 
 8. These coats arc drafted the same as 
 dress frock, with the following exception : 
 The length of breast should be taken from 
 the nape of neck, and when the thumb is 
 on the measure at front of waist, the meas- 
 ure should be carried up to the extreme 
 point of neck-bone ; and, in the application 
 of this measure, 2 inch more should be 
 added for the drawing in of front. In sin- 
 gle breast there should be 1 incli added to 
 front, and should be fulled on, and facings 
 kept tight and well wadded, which will re- 
 quire the extra inch. The Frock Coats 
 are adopted in most all cases of militarj^ or 
 navy, the difference consisting chiefly of 
 trimming. The single-breasted frock is 
 but little worn, except by militia. The 
 skirts of military coats should have more 
 draper}' than citizens, and therefore hol- 
 lowed a little more at waist, and given a 
 little more spring beliind. 
 
 COATS— UNDRESS. 
 
 For Officers (for fatigue ^ inarches, 
 squad and company drills, and other drills, 
 when authorized bj^ the commanding offi- 
 cer, and for ordinary wear.) A sack coat 
 of dark blue cloth or serge ; fiilling collar ; 
 single breasted, with five buttons in front 
 same as those Avorii on the dress coat ; 
 with black braid 1 of an inch wide, extend- 
 ing from each button and button-hole back 
 six inches, and terminating in "herring 
 bone" loops. 
 
 The skirt to extend from ^ to § the dis- 
 tance from the hip joint to the bend of the 
 knee ; and to be slashed at the hip on each 
 side ; a knot of black braid, 1 of an inch 
 wide, on the upper part of the cuffs, ac- 
 cording to pattern. 
 
 The shoulder straps will always be worn 
 with it. Black braid binding, i of an inch 
 wide, around edge of coat. 
 
 For Storekeepers. — Of pattern above 
 described, but wilhout braid. 
 
 For Chaplain. — Plain black frock coat, 
 with standing collar ; one row of nine black 
 buttons up the breast, with "herring 
 bone " of black braid around tiie buttons 
 and button-holes. 
 
 FATiaUE SACK. 
 On Figures 2, 4 and 10 we give the back, 
 forepart and collar for a fatigue sack. We 
 have not given the sleeve as we had not 
 room for it, but a full description of it is 
 given, as also the mode of trimming, and 
 the reader can draft the sleeve by the 
 measure, according to the sj'stem. This 
 sack is close-fitting, and is drafted by the 
 system in the usual way, excepting where 
 it is laid out to be cut down all the way 
 under the arm to bottom for spring, and 
 to give ease over the loins. The breast is 
 cut full, to be wadded in military style, in 
 material which requires it. Figure 2 is the 
 collar, and is adapted for buttoning close 
 up to the neck. 
 
 TROWSERS. 
 
 For General Officers, Otiicers of the 
 General Staff and Staff Corps. Dark blue 
 cloth, plain, without stripe, welt or cord. 
 
 For all Regimental Officers of Cav- 
 alry, Artillery and Infantry. — Light 
 blue cloth, same shade of color as pre- 
 scribed for enlisted men, with stripe 1^ 
 inches wide, welted at the edges ; color, 
 that of facings of their respective arms, 
 except infantry, whicli will be dark blue. 
 
 Storekeepers. — Dark blue cloth, with 
 black stripe, Ih inches wide. 
 
 For Chaplains. — Plain black. 
 
Description of Juvenile Plate. 
 
 y-U^IGURES 2, 3, 4, 18 are the diagrams 
 of a little cutaway jacket, laid out to 
 a breast measure of 24, but any size 
 may be cut by our graduating scales, by 
 selecting the scale corresponding with the 
 breast measure. We will now proceed 
 and show how to draft this diagram as a 
 criterion by which to draft all the others. 
 
 How TO Draft Back, Fiuure 4. — Draw 
 construction line from to 20t, square in 
 top ; mark down from 0, 4, 6h, 8, loi, 
 201, square these lines across ; mark on 
 top line, 2t, and up for spring I ; mark 
 on top of pitch, 81 ; middle of pitch, 7i ; 
 bottom, Ih ; inside at waist, 6| ; bottom, 
 Gi ; hollow the back about 2 iuch, as 
 model. Form top from to I ; shoulder 
 from T to 81 ; pitch from 8? by 7 5 to 7^ ; 
 side from 7 3 to Gi, at plait and bottom. 
 
 Description of Forepart, Figure 3.— 
 Draw construction line from at top to 
 21 3 at bottom ; mark down from at top, 
 21, 31, 81, 9i, 16t, 21 2, square these lines 
 across, inside and outside ; mark outside 
 from 2s, 51 ; next from 91-61 ; next from 
 161—41 ; outside from 3l-6g ; outside from 
 8l-l'l, and ^5^ ; outside at waist, 63 ; at 
 bottom, 73. Form shoulder from toGi ; 
 side from 63 by 63 to 7^ ; sye from Gs by 
 11 to 53 ; neck-gorge from to 51 ; and 
 front from 51 by 61, 41, 21^ and 73. 
 
 How TO Draft Sleeve, Figure 2. — 
 Draw construction line from to 18, 4, 
 10, 17-3 ; square these lines across; mark 
 outside from at top, 41, 81 ; outside at 
 elbow, 81 ; at bottom, 53 ; mark inside 
 
 from 4, G3, 72 ; square up from 63 to 7 ; 
 mark inside at elbow, 8 ; and at bottom, 
 53 ; form sleeve-head from I down from 
 81, 41, 4, 2i, to 7 ; and the rest of the 
 sleeve by the numbers indicated on the 
 diagram, and finish sleeve by forming the 
 ornament representing a cuff, which is 
 done b}^ a tracing braid. And also form 
 the ornament represented on back and 
 forepart, with the little plait at bottom with 
 3 buttons. The collar, 18, is drafted in 
 the same way. The little vest. Figure 1, 
 is an accompaniment of the jacket,- and is 
 drafted in__the way we have been describ- 
 ing, and trimmed as represented by the 
 tracing braid. Figures 8 and IG arc the 
 little breeches accompanjing this "suit, the 
 trimming of whicli is in accord with that of 
 the jacket, the points of which the reader 
 will see at a glance. These breeches are 
 drafted in the way we have already de- 
 scribed, from the line of construction, by 
 the scale corresponding with the breast 
 measure and the numbers on the diagram. 
 These breeches arc suited to any of the 
 other jackets on the plate ; the trimming 
 may be omitted or another pattern substi- 
 tuted in accord with that of the jacket. 
 
 On Figures 5, G, 7, we have another 
 style of suit, which is a Highland costume. 
 Tlie sleeve and collar. Figures 2 and 18, 
 are adapted for this jacket also. This 
 jacket is of the Derby style ; the line of 
 construction of forepart runs from the 
 point of shoulder, and it has a little] false 
 vest attached, which is fastened to the 
 linings inside. It has openings at side 
 
Juvenile Platk] 
 
 39 
 
 and beliiiul, fonning three cufves: it fastens 
 willi a little tal) at the neck. This jacket 
 is drafted in the same way we have de- 
 scribed the other. We will describe the 
 way to draft skirt, Figure 5. Draw front 
 from to 14, and draw line on the square 
 to 2\h and 2ti, with :> inches added for 
 the ?) plaits running from 5 at top to 14 at 
 l)ottom ; then square up from 21 2 to 5 ; 
 draw line of waist from to 5; and hollow 
 top to 11 inches, then draw the line of 
 l)lait from 5 to 14 by 2lh, and add the 3 
 inches outside, and form the plaits as 
 model ; and form l)Ottoin according to the 
 same curve as the waist. There should be 
 a band ] 1 inches in width, sewed on to the 
 waist, with holes worked in it to fasten to 
 the waistband of Knickerbockers, which is 
 worn underneath. The Knickerbockers 
 are in plate XXIIl, and are drafted by the 
 scale corresponding with the hip measure. 
 
 On Figures 11, 12, 15, with sleeve 2, 
 we have a very neat style of Derby jacket. 
 This jacket has a plait behind and at side, 
 it lias a little curved lapel, and fastens 
 with a tab underneath the lapel. The 
 pockets are at waist, covered with tlaps : 
 the vest adapted to this jacket should close 
 higher than Figure 1. Some of these jack- 
 ets are ornamented with a tracing braid 
 around the edge ■; this jacket is drafted in 
 tiie same waj' we have already described. 
 The little pants. Figure 8, are adapted to 
 this jacket. 
 
 Figures 9, 13, 14, ID, are the diagrams 
 
 of a loose over sack or blouse, for a child; 
 it has an ornament at side of back, and 
 also on llap and at sleeve hand, with 3 
 buttons ; the collar, 20, is also adapted to 
 th s blouse. It is single breasted and but- 
 tons u|) the front either with fly or without. 
 The band, Figure 82, is also adapted to 
 this blouse ; it is drafted in the usual way. 
 Figures 10, 17, 21, 22, 23, are the dia- 
 grams of a diagonal blouse. Figure 17 is 
 the back, and is drafted in the usual way ; 
 Figure 21 is the forepart, and should be 
 drafted as laid down in diagram, the con- 
 st ruction line in centre, the points outside, 
 not only indicating the blouse, but also the 
 diagonal line where it joins ; after the 
 forepart is drafted and the diagonal (ipcn- 
 iiig marked, the pattern should be cut 
 around the diagonal line, and enough of 
 material added lo the underpart to run 
 IVdui 2t on point of shoulder in a straight 
 direction to lap about 2 inches at 13i at 
 bottom'; the upper part of shoulder is 
 formed with three points, where it laps un- 
 derside, and is fastened on shoulder with 
 three buttons and holes, and down the 
 front with 12. Figure 10 is the sleeve, and 
 Figure 22 is the belt which is just half the 
 size, and should be fastened around the 
 middle at waist. Figure 23 is the collar, 
 and is designed to lit close around the 
 shoulder. This blouse should be trimmed 
 all around with two rows of braid Ih inches 
 from the edge, and h inch apart, interlined 
 with one row of tracing braid. 
 
40 
 
 Description of Plate XIX. 
 
 JlpGURES ], 2, 5, 8, 9 and 11 are the 
 ^^J| diagrams of the Ibreparts of seven 
 different styles of vests to the same 
 back, figure 7. 
 
 We will illustrate the maimer of draft- 
 ing by figures 7 and 8, which is a dress 
 vest, with low roll of breast. The meas- 
 ures should be taken for length of vest from 
 socket bone behind down to the length that 
 the vest should be opened, then the full 
 length of front, next breast and waist 
 measure. We will suppose the following 
 measure : length of opening, 16 inches ; 
 full length, 25 inches ; breast, 18 ; waist, 
 IG. Draw construction line from to 22, 
 Sfjuare in top, mark along top h breast meas- 
 ure, which is 9 inches, then divide that in 
 13 [)arts, or 1-6 and h respectively; then 
 mark down from 0, li inches or l-12t]i 
 breast measure, and to 6 one-third, and 9 
 one-half, and to 17 3 the length of natural 
 waist, and when you have not got the 
 natural waist, appl}' half the breast 3 inch 
 less, then apply your measure length of 
 vest from 6, or point of shoulder at top ; 
 supposing width of top of back, 3 inches or 
 1-6 ; lay the 3 on 6 and apply length of 
 breast down to 9 at bottom, with | of inch 
 added for making up ; then square these 
 lines across ; then mark in from natural 
 waist 1 inch ; apply half j'oiir waist meas- 
 ure from said inch to front, with li inches 
 in front at natural waist added. 1 inch 
 for making up, and A inch for V to UH, 
 and 9 at bottom ; mark 1| inches in front ; 
 draw line of shoulder from 6 to Ih ; then 
 apply your measure down to the length of 
 opening on breast, say 18 ; then draw your 
 front by the It you have established by 
 li to 9 at bottom ; then mark up from 
 
 22, 3 inches, or l-iith, and draw bottom of 
 vest from 9 to 19 ;. form your sideseam 
 from 9 bj' 1 at natural waist ; let it be well 
 sprung below natural waist, as model ; 
 mark the width of top of shoulder about 
 iik inches, and form j^our sye as model ; 
 draw dotted line from 3 at top to II at 
 front of breast, or the length of opening, 
 according to measure ; and form the neck- 
 gorge as model ; and take out V as repre- 
 sented on forepart. As this vest is design- 
 ed to open well on the breast, we cut the 
 sewing to part of collar, or stand up, rather 
 straight ; and the sewing, too, should be 
 kept a little tight along towards, the front, 
 so that when the vest is lini.shed, the crease 
 will be hollow, something resembling the 
 neck-gorge. These vests can be drafted as 
 well b}^ the scale as by divisions of the 
 breast measure ; and we should prefer the 
 use of the scale, as in the larger sizes it 
 (the scale) will curtail the size of the vest 
 to the dimensions required, and it is more 
 convenient. But at the waist, the real 
 measure should be applied, so as to give it 
 sufficient width at this part, no matter how 
 small the waist measure may be. the front 
 of vest should never be brought inside of 
 the point 9 at bottom, but the extra mate- 
 rial should be taken out as V ; this is 
 found necessary to prevent the vest raising 
 up in front. In cases where the scale is 
 used for cutting a garment for a tall and 
 slim man, a scale a size larger should be 
 used for the lengths than for widths ; and 
 if drafted by divisions, the bottom of sye 
 and natural waist should be lengthened in 
 proportion to the length required. Figure 
 1 is clerical or English style of vest, and 
 is drafted in the same manner as Figure 8, 
 
Viate /9 
 
 "f « -3 . 
 
 15 lit 
 
Plate XIX.] 
 
 41 
 
 ■ with the following exception : that.') gfad- 
 uale'd inches, or i-(3th, is marked down 
 fVoni to locate the fVout of neck-gorii-o, 
 and there is 1 inch added in front of line 
 at neck to 10, and 2 inches at front of 
 breast to 11. At this point we vary from 
 It to 2t in i)roportiou to the chest of the 
 customer ; the collar should be cut to lit 
 the gorge, according to model. 
 
 In this diagram we also represent a vest 
 of the straight form, without collar, which is 
 usualljcalled the French style of vest. The 
 reader will at a glance see the points of tkis 
 vest. There is a little collar behind, repre- 
 sented by the long curved piece, which is 
 designed to give spring to this part of the 
 neck gorge; the points of front of breast are 
 indicated bj^ the numbers on the diagram, 
 marked 11 behind, and I0?r in front. How 
 to draft back, Figure 4 : draw construction 
 line from to 20h, square in top ; mark 
 down from 0, lOl inches, which should be 
 from 1 to li inches more than from to !) 
 at bottom of sye on forepart, one inch for 
 the fair proportioned, and one and a half 
 for the stooping ; mark on top 3 inches, or 
 1-6 for width of top of back, and then 9, or 
 half breast ; then draw line from 9 to bot- 
 tom on the square ; mark down said line 4 
 inches, or I breast measure, less half inch ; 
 this should be raised up or down in pro- 
 portion to high or low shoulders, then mark 
 inside at bottom of sye, 1 inch, for making 
 up, to 10, and give I5 inches at bottom, 
 over half waist ; mark length of side of 
 back by that of forepart ; raise spring of 
 top I from 3, and form back as model. 
 Figure 5 is the diagram of a double-breast- 
 ed vest, and is drafted in the same wa}', 
 with the following exceptions : the point 
 of i^ck-gorge in front is established by 
 placing the line 3 inches or l-6thfrom top, 
 the front of breast is placed at 1 inch and 
 Ig, I3 and 93 at bottom, respectivel}', but 
 may be diminished in proportion to the 
 size of chest, the width of lapel is placed 
 
 at 2-2, 3, It, respectively, and the front of 
 vest .should be formed by those points; the 
 collar should be cut square. Figure 9 is a 
 double-breasted vest of the shawl form. The 
 diagram indicates the points of difference 
 from the single breast ; in front of breast 
 there is I'l inches more for single breast, 
 and It is added at top for the double 
 breast, making in all 3i ; and at Ijottoni 
 It is added for the double ; and front of 
 breast is formed in accordance with these 
 points ; the collar should be fitted to the 
 neck as represented on Figures 8 and 10. 
 
 Figures 10 and 13 are the diagrams of 
 a corpulent man's vest, and is drafted in 
 the same way as Figure 8, only the roll of 
 breast being much higher. It is di'afted 
 to a breast measure of 24, waist 26, length 
 3O3. At natural waist, where it is mark- 
 ed 1 inch into sideseam, this point in vests 
 should be marked 1 graduated inch, and 
 the waist measure should be applied from 
 sideseam to Ibh at front, with 1 inch add- 
 ed, there being no V recpiired in such 
 vests, no allowance is made for it ; the 
 front of breast on line at bottom of sye 
 is placed at 31 to 14.^; and the front of 
 breast is formed in accordance with these 
 points. The back. Figure 13, is drafted 
 in the same way as Figure 7, excepting 
 the additional width at'waist required by 
 the measure. 
 
 Figures 6, 7, 11, are the diagrams of a 
 single-breasted vest. Either of the collars 
 Figures 6 or 12, are suited to this forepart, 
 and represent two different styles of vest, 
 — a collar of the shawl form, as represent- 
 ed on Figure 12, would give one style, or 
 high-roll of the shawl form ; the other a 
 pointed lapel ; the collars are drafted with 
 the scale, -as the entire vest may also be. 
 
 Ou Figure 5 we have another style of 
 double-breasted vest, which is formed by 
 the buttons running to a point at bottom, 
 in the shape of a Y, about 21 inches up 
 from bottom, and leaving an opening at 
 bottom when buttoned, of 2 inches. The 
 collars. Figures 4 and 12, are adapted to 
 either of these vests, and thus producing 
 either a vest of the pointed lapel form on 
 the one hand, or the shawl form on the 
 other, bv the change of collar. 
 
42 
 
 Description of Plate XX. 
 
 JMGrURE 1 is a diagram rei^resenting 
 the measurement of pantaloons. How 
 to take measure : Put the top of 
 your measure in at the hollow of Avaist 
 above the hip bones, and apply the meas- 
 ure down to knee, which we will suppose 
 23^ inches, then to bottom of side 42 
 inches, we will then lake measure of leg 
 by putting measure close up into fork (un- 
 less you use an instrument for the purpose), 
 and then apply the measure right down 
 the side to what you think is the proper 
 length, bring the measure also to the up- 
 per part of foot, which is usually a good 
 criterion to judge of the proper length, say 
 32 inches, then apply waist measure around 
 at the hollow of waist, and hip measure at 
 the most prominent part of hips. (In cor- 
 pulent men we take three measures, waist 
 and one at the most prominent part of 
 stomach, and one at the hips.) "We will sup- 
 pose the waist and hip measure respectively 
 16 inches and 19. In tight pants we take 
 the thigh measure, dress and undress, and 
 give the proper allowance for making up, — 
 say, dress side llh, undress 11, knee 83, 
 bottom 83 or according to fashion, eliptic, 
 which should be taken on dress side ; from 
 the exact point you started for side seam, 
 draw the measure right through the fork 
 and right over hip to the same point you 
 started, say 332, and allow 11 inches in its 
 application,, 341. 
 
 We will now commence and draft Figure 
 2. How to draft upper side : Draw con- 
 struction line from to 42, square in top, 
 then mark down from 0, 23 A inches, and 42 
 
 or full length ; there should be 1 inch 
 added for making up, then mark up from 
 bottom 32 inches with i inch added, or leg 
 seam, to 10, which makes line of fork, square 
 those lines across, mark outside on this line 
 from 10, 93 inches, or half hip measure, 
 then mark inside from 10, » the hip meas- 
 ure, which is 2i, which we have marked 
 on diagram 23, and also 1-G to 3s, then 
 divide the distance from 10 to 23, which 
 is 11, then divide -the 11 which is t, and 
 draw line from the g to top, then add the 31, 
 and half hip measure, 9^ and 3s together, 
 making 121, then mark in from 92 at side 
 one half of the 121 or 61 ; and also 3 the 
 width of upper side at bottom marked 21, 
 which is 31, I inside to 21 or 3f, and draw 
 centre line from 21 at bottom by 61, then 
 mark outside from at top half waist 8 
 inches and half hip 93, mark outside from 
 centre at knee 41 inches, and inside of con- 
 struction line 1 inch or 4 from centre ; then 
 mark width of upper side at bottom, 31 
 inches on either side of centre, draw line 
 from 11 at fork to 42 at bottom, then mark 
 the curves of upper side at fork to 23 and 
 3 s as represented, and side from 8 by 93 — 
 41 to 63, and bottom as model, then drop 
 the line down 3 inch from at top, which 
 is required in small waists, and finish up- 
 per side. 
 
 How to draft under side. Figure^. — 
 Lay on upper side as Figure 2, mark line 
 of top out t,o 10, and line of fork to 41, to 
 41 is 1 of hip from construction line at 10, 
 then sweep from 8 to 31 by 2^ at fork ; 
 mark inside at knee from construction line 
 
I'lcxlc ','(> 
 
 /^^>< — ' ^ 
 
 / ,1=2 
 / '' '■■^ 
 
 ^^"^""^^^^-^^.---L ^.^^ 
 
 .Ai.i'i^iA \ « 
 
 i: B i a •■'; J \ 
 
 ! - -- ---' .Z. -:-'----" " 
 
 ^ "^s^i^sr - 
 
 
 ^^^ 
 
 l^ — ;,^^-;;;ri:== i— -^~J 
 
 
 
 3-. ' "^ 
 
 -^ 
 
 CD 
 
 
 
 
 J 
 
 ['"" 
 
 
 "'fi^B fdffl'^ J 
 
 
 : „.....--._j 
 
 1__ 
 
 ^^Z^^^^^=^ 
 
 
 ]j2 
 
 « 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
Plate XX.] 
 
 2 inches or 5 from centre, and outside 3t 
 or 81 added to width of upper side Si 
 making width at knee 17 inches, mark in- 
 side at bottom from 42 2 1 and outside 8?, 
 amounting to lOl, and one half on each 
 side from centre line^ 101 added to 71 of 
 upperside, making in all 18 inches ; then 
 applj^ waist measure from to 8 and from 
 31 to 10 at side ; take out V of 3 inch, and 
 thus allow H inches for making up ; appl}^ 
 hip measure from where the line of seat 
 crosses front across to side, allowing from 
 21 to 2i inches for making up as to IO3 ; 
 and then form top and side as model ; draw 
 scat line from 2^ at fork to 3t at top and 
 form your underside out to 4f , and leg from 
 41 by 2 to 21 at bottom, and form bottom 
 according to model. 
 
 Figure 3 is drafted in the same way we 
 have described, excepting the side, which 
 represents a side stripe. In such cases 
 allow 1 inch to be taken out as V from 71 
 to side stripe at 9, and allow 1 inch to 9, 
 and give 1 inch additional width to upper 
 side at bottom ; draw your side seam with 
 a straight line from 9 to 71 at bottom, then 
 wdiatever you have taken off from upper 
 side at 81 should be added to under side 
 
 to lOi, and also apply the seat measure 
 and eliptic as we have described in Fig. 1, 
 and form _your under side by the measures. 
 We recommend dropping the under side 
 below the line of fork about k inch, as 
 represented in Fig. 1, and stretched to that 
 amount to make the pants sit clear of any 
 creases at this point. AVe have drawn the 
 line of seat I of an inch inside of centre 
 line behind and advanced the point of side 
 to lOi ; the object of this is twofold, namely, 
 to take away all creases that might exist 
 under the seat behind and also to take out 
 the surplus material and avoid having too 
 much round at the side. 
 
 Figure 5 represents a man with small 
 hips. The eliptic is small, being at 32^, 
 and thus throwing the line of seat well 
 back. Men of this build are flat behind, 
 and round at side, having very prominent 
 loin bones, which requires a good deal of 
 round on this part of pants. These pants 
 are drafted to the following measure — 
 waist 15, hip 18, knee 82, bottom 81, side 40, 
 leg 30 ; these pants are cut wider at knee 
 than the others in proportion. There is 
 nothing more in these panis calling for com- 
 ment different from that we have given. 
 
44 
 
 Description of Plate XXI. 
 
 JICxURE 1 is I ho (lingram of a corpii- 
 ^ lent man's pants of tlie pot-bellied 
 form, or one who has his corpnlency pretty 
 well developed in front; which is generally 
 indicated by the appearance, but always 
 discovered more essentially by the appli- 
 cation of the eliptic measure, which is al- 
 ways more in the build which carries his 
 thickness all around, than that of the pot- 
 bellied structure. The waist and hip is 
 put down at the same figure, 24 inches 
 each ; knee 11, bottom 10, side 44, leg 31. 
 (We perceive that our engraver has sub- 
 stituted the letter R for that of K in all 
 these diagrams, which was meant to indi- 
 cate the knee.) We lay it down as a prin- 
 ciple in the measurement of pants that in 
 the proportionate structure there is always 
 found a difference of 3 inches between 
 waist and hip, thus IG and 19 are supposed 
 to be a medium fair proportioned struc- 
 ture ; i« stout builds we will suppose it at 
 2 inches, and when the waist is large in 
 proportion to the hips, as in the present 
 case, we have laid it down as a maxim, 
 and it is found to be generally correct in 
 practice, to give two parts of the extra 
 material to the front and the other to the 
 .side. In the ])rcsent measure, according 
 to this princii)le, the waist is 2 inches 
 larger than fair proportion, which would 
 require If inches given to the front, and the 
 balance behind ; but there are exceptions 
 to most of rules, and in the application of 
 eliptic measure we discovered that the extra 
 material should all l)e in front, and was much 
 
 better a(la])ted to those pants. It should 
 also be raised I as much at top as it is ad- 
 vanced in front, and is therefore advanced 
 2, and raised lA ; the top we curve a lit- 
 tle and have it confined in a little for making 
 up, so as to straighten it, as the prominent 
 part of the thickness or roundness of 
 stomach is usually about 3 inches lower 
 down, which we have given 21, marked on 
 diagram, and thus throw the fullness to 
 this part ; and in forming the front, we 
 curve it so as to give more width about 
 3 inches down, and carry it gradual!}' into 
 a hollow towards the fork. Indeed, we 
 would advise taking a second measure here, 
 in extreme cases, three inches below the 
 waist, and if found to be 3 inch wider to 
 add said i inch to the round of front 3 
 inches below. In these jiants tlie eliptic 
 measure is applied, and 1 1 inches added, 
 establishing the point at 161, and making 
 the width of top 131 inches, including the 
 1 inch behind, from 31. But the question 
 may be asked, if the eliptic measure is es- 
 sential ? and suppose it to bo correctly 
 taken, how could it apply in establishing 
 the corpulenc}^ correctly in front ? The 
 answer is : the eliptic measure being short 
 at 161, in proportion to the waist measure, 
 this shortness proves that the stoutness must 
 go to the front, -where the eliptic does not 
 appl3^ And observation going to confirm 
 this opinion, it is found to be a safe rule of 
 practice. The other portions of tlieso 
 pants are drafted the same way we have 
 explained elsewhere. 
 
J'lalf^ ^/ 
 
 «: ^ 
 
 r-^— -_ 
 
 ^~-- 
 
 
 ^\:e^ 
 
 
 
 j'j 
 
 
 --^ 
 
 i 
 
 
 CO 
 
 / (i^ 
 
 / />1 U' 
 
 
 ^J 
 
 ■^ ■* _; o w 6 
 
 CO MM ^f-^ tKco 
 
 --_^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 !C 
 
 / / 3 
 
 / ' K 
 / ' o 
 / : o 
 
 
 
 
 ~~i 
 
 -H -0^-— ^:> 
 
 -^ 
 
 -^^ ^ 
 
 ^ W (si W «! HJ 
 
 
 ^- A 
 
 ~s? 
 
 "^^^ 
 
 ^\\ 
 
 
 _ — ■ 5 
 
 
 
 -^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^^\^ 
 
 "?_— --t:::::^^--^^^^^ 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 I ^J CVJ '— -^ f ! 
 
 -e-a:pq w:, 
 
Plate XXL] 
 
 45 
 
 Figure 2 is a corpulent man's pants, and 
 arc cut full falls. The measure is similar 
 to that of Figure 1; the length of side is 
 42 ; leg 30; waist 24; hip 24 ; knee 11 ; 
 bottom 10; the width of top to 12.3 with 1 
 behind and 12 top of front, is waist meas- 
 ure, with lA added for making up, They 
 are drafted in the same way as the others, 
 excepting being raised 1| inches u[) from 
 15i at top, for the full falls. In these 
 pants there is S given to the front an^l ^i 
 behind, marked Ih at front and raised 1 at 
 top ; the underside is dropped at fork k 
 inch below the line, and should be stretched 
 to that amount. In these pants there 
 should be I5 inches extra given at top for 
 making up, and 3 extra allowed in the ap- 
 plication of hip measure; the fall bearer 
 should be cut to raise Ij inches higher than 
 fall, and to have a vent about 4 inches 
 down the side ; and should be cut I inch 
 wider than fall, for the purpose of button- 
 ing in front. In the widths of corpulent 
 men's pants all extremes should be avoid- 
 ed, as that of a medium width is entirely 
 more becoming. 
 
 Figure 3 is the diagram of a pair of knee 
 breeches to the following measure : waist 
 IG, hip 19, knee Ul, side 27^, leg llh. 
 These breeches are cut for a waistband, 
 but can be changed to full falls by adding 
 11 inches at top, as represented on Figure 
 2 ; they can also be cut the old frog nwuth 
 style, by cutting a fall in from 0, about 5 
 . inches in length, and 2 in width at top, and 
 2i wide at bottom inside, from upper side, 
 and to raise 1 inch higher than at top ; 
 and should have a welt sewed on to the 
 
 slit and made up 2 inch in width, with a 
 fall l)earer underneath to button in front. 
 At the bottom half the width of knee is 
 given each way from the centre ; 23-5 is 
 the knee, and 2T-j is the bottom ; they arc 
 gently hollowed from knee to bottom, botii 
 inside and outside ; and the upper side is 
 gently curved around the bottom, and the 
 under side slightly hollowed. They should 
 have a welt sewed on and made up about 
 g of inch wide, and a vent about 4 inches 
 long at side, with 4 buttons and holes. 
 
 Figure 4 is a gaiter, the length of which 
 is 71 inches ; this gaiter opens down the 
 front ; the slash in front marked Figure 0, 
 has the hollowed part from to 1| joined 
 to front, from Gi tolOL For buttoning, it 
 should be fulled on a little at Gl ; it has 7 
 holes and buttons down the front. It is 
 drafted by the scale corresponding with 
 the breast measure. 
 
 Figure 5 is another style of gaiter, and 
 closes at the side with 5 holes ; this gaiter 
 i's 7 inches in length, It is drafted in the 
 usual wav, from the line of construction 
 which runs down the centre. A measure 
 should be taken at the top, neck, and heel 
 of the gaiter, and applied with sufficient 
 allowed for making up. 
 
 Figures 7, 8, 9, is the diagram of a pair 
 of leggings or long gaiter. The length of 
 this legging is 17^ inches. Figure 9 is the 
 outside and 8 the inside, 7 is the tongue. 
 The outside from 5 §-4 and 41, joins the in- 
 side from 73-51 to Gg ; and the tongue. 
 Figure 7, is joined from 2i-6b to Hi and 
 4i,and to 2. 
 
46 
 
 Description of Plate XXII. 
 
 Qi1i%E will coniinence our description of 
 ^Xr| this Plate Avith Lady's Habit, as 
 ^^ ^ laid down by the system. 
 
 Figures 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 12, 13, 14, are tlic 
 diagrams of a lady's habit, or rather, four 
 different styles produced by four styles of 
 skirts. This habit is laid down by the sys- 
 tem, but has the numbers placed so that it 
 can also be used by the scale. It is drafted 
 to the following measure : diameter length- 
 wise 41, crosswise 31, shoulder measure 
 11|, blade 152, sye measure 10, eliptic 11, 
 depth of sye on back 71, natural waist 14, 
 full length 15, length of skirts 243 and 28 
 respectively, breast 17, waist Hi How 
 to draft back : draw back line from to 
 245 the, bottom of sye and natural waist 
 is marked in the same way as frock coat, 
 and the diameter lengthwise applied in the 
 same way ; there is h inch added to the 
 width of back for making up, as there is 
 no seam under arm, and also in conformit}- 
 with the principle that ladies' habits or 
 basques reciuirc to be cut as wide in back 
 and shoulders as possible, we have also 
 added k inch to the diameter of sye, as an 
 allowance for light or very heavy material ; 
 the other points of the back are indicated 
 by the numbers on diagram. Figure 12 is 
 the forepart, and is laid out by the meas- 
 m-eg^ — the shoulder, blade, and sye measure 
 being applied in their respective places, 
 and the location of shoulder established by 
 the line depth of shoulder being placed on 
 the centre line, and the application of blade 
 measure the same as frock. In the applica- 
 tion of the waist measure the fishes should 
 be taken out in proportion to waist meas- 
 
 ure to 171, and 17^ ; in half-breast measure 
 it should be hollowed a little from 171 to 
 17;!; the front is only adapted to close with 
 hooks and eyes ; as there are some which 
 close with holes and buttons, I of an inch 
 extra should be added in such cases. Fig- 
 ure 9 is the sleeve ; it is of the tight-fitting 
 style, and is drafted Avith the scale by the 
 numbers on the diagram or by the system. 
 Figures 4, 5, 6, represent four different 
 styles of skirt adapted to the same fore- 
 part. On Figure 6 is the postilion skirt, 
 very narrow at front and sides, and of 
 moderate length behind. On Figures 4 
 and 5 are two different styles of skirted 
 habits or basques, the one rounded off and 
 the other pointed. Figure 14 is the train 
 or long skirt. We merely represent the 
 top or width in this diagram. It consists 
 of 23 breadths of cloth ; the line from G 
 downwards is the fold of the first breadth, 
 which is sloped off 6 inches in front, grad- 
 uating to nothing at the seam ; the half 
 breadth is placed at the right side ; for 
 small sizes 2 breadths may be used instead 
 of 23. The length is usuallj' ruled accord- 
 ing to fashion, but as a general rule it should 
 be 15 inches in front and 24 behind, longer 
 than the skirt of a dress. It is plaited on 
 a waist-band, which fastens by hooks and 
 eyes. 
 
 Figures 1, 2, 9, 12, are the diagrams of 
 a bas((ue, which is drafted to the same 
 measure as the habit we have described, 
 excepting the sye measure, which is h inch 
 more, or IO2. This basque closes with 
 hooks and eyes down the front, but. can be 
 closed with holes and buttons, by an ad- 
 
Plate Ti . 
 
Platr XXII.] 
 
 47 
 
 ilitional 3 inch added to front. It can be 
 drafted eitliei'bjMlic s.ystem oi- the scale 
 corresponding witli the breast measure. In 
 the forming of this basque, at waist, the 
 measure should be applied across, as to 
 171, back included to 171 ; and fishes taken 
 out commensurate with the requirements 
 of the waist measure ; an allowance of from 
 82 to 4 inches should be allowed for seams 
 .and making up, and the balance should bo 
 taken out as fishes. The spring at waisc 
 under arm commences at natural waist, 
 or I3 inches above the line, and is about 
 4 inches at bottom, as from 22 to GJ ■; but 
 a larger amount may be required, and in 
 order to meet this emergenc}^ a measure 
 ma}" be taken over the prominent part of 
 
 the loins, and an extra allowance as de- 
 scribed above applied, and spring given to 
 correspond. This basque is marked 11 2 
 at waist, but would make up 122 ; the 
 collar 12, and sleeve 9, is suited to this 
 bastjue. 
 
 On Figures 3, 8, 9, 10, U, are the dia- 
 giums of a very neat style of basque, and 
 to the same breast measure as the others ; 
 it is designed to have a short roll of breast, 
 and a step with curved fronts; it may also 
 have a flap at waist when required. This 
 diagram is laid down to be drafted b}' the 
 scale, and the reader will perceive its points 
 at a glance, and draft it by the scale cor- 
 responding with the breast measure. 
 
48 
 
 Description of Plate XXIII. 
 
 jj?l,N Figures 1, 2, 3, 5, G, are the tlia- 
 |)r| graias or system for cutting a shirt, 
 T and is laid down to the following 
 measnre: neck 151, sleeve Sis, breast 30, 
 waist 33, length of front 35, length of back 
 37, length of bosom 8. Figure 1 is the 
 sleeve, 2 the back, and IG the front, 5 the 
 neck band, 6 the wrist band, 7 the yoke. 
 When cnt to measure the lengths should 
 be applied by the inch tape, and the other 
 points by the scale corresponding with 
 the breast measure ; this shirt is cut whole 
 at front having a bosom inserted from 23 
 to 17, and closes behind with an opening 
 marked by a line inside, and marked about 
 123 inches down, and closes behind t^ith 
 two holes and buttons. How it is joined 
 together : the point of yoke 51 and 2 is 
 joined to shoulder at 21 and 81, and also 
 from % and to and 111 on back, which 
 should be fulled on to back, the joining at 
 side will be understood at a glance. The 
 back arm of sleeve at joins to back at 111 ; 
 the point of neckband at joins to 81 on 
 yoke ; all the other points of the diagram 
 are well defined. 
 
 Figure 4 represents a little pair of knee 
 breeches, full tops, which should be plaited 
 into a band like Fig. iO, plate XVIII. ; these 
 breeches are drafted from the line of con- 
 struction by the scale corresponding with 
 the seat measure. Figure 9 is a pair of 
 Knickerbocker breeches drafted to the fol- 
 lowing measure : waist 10, hip 19, side 32, 
 leg 22 ; the bottom should be confined in 
 \>y a piece of India rul)l)er; the points of 
 bottom are drafted by the scale, and the 
 other portions by the system as described 
 on Figs. 2 and 3, plate XX. 
 
 OnFigures 8 and 10 we have two differ- 
 ent kinds of sleeves, drafted on two differ- 
 ent principles, and the reader can adopt 
 
 tliat wliich he thinks the best. How to 
 draft Figure 8 : Draw construction line 
 fi-oni to 323 ; to 20 is elbow ; square the 
 line across from 3 to 82 ; to 82 is half the 
 sye measure ; divide the sye measure in 
 two, to 41 ; then divide the 41 in two, to 
 28 ; square up line to 41 at top ; then 
 sweep from 41 at top by 2^ to ; draw 
 hair line from to 83, divide said line say 
 43 ; then square down the line to 3, or i 
 the distance from to 83, and sweep from 
 41 at top to 82, by 3 ; draw hair line of 
 forearm, from 83 to 83 at bottom ; sweep 
 from 323 to 82 by ; mark width of cuff 
 from 82 to 52 ; add I outside at elbow; and 
 form forearm by 71, from 83 to 82 ; and 
 outside from by 3,1 to 52, and underside 
 as model. 
 
 How TO Draft Sleeve, Figure 10. — 
 Draw line from to 2O2 ; to 14 is elbow ; 
 square in top measure around your sye, say 
 IG2 ; half of Avhich is 81 ; mark down from 
 
 the half of that, or 41 ; square said line 
 across to 81, and also the line 14 ; estab- 
 lish the centre of sleeve at 41, and square 
 it up to top ; then measure the distance 
 IVom the middle ot your back pitch when 
 joined to bottom of sye, say 1 inch for half 
 pitch, and 21 from sidepoint to bottom of 
 S3'e, added together, making 31 from 41 to 
 
 1 up at top of sleeve ; then form sleeve- 
 head from 1 by 2-41 and 2 to 81 at fore- 
 arm to 2, is half the distance to 41 ; from 
 front line to 2 at top, is where sleeve-liead 
 should touch the line ; draw hair line from 
 8l to 81 at bottom ; sweep from 2G2 to 81 
 by at top ; mark width of bottom to 53 ; 
 mark forearm seam I inside from line, and 
 outside at elbow I ; form forearm from 81 
 at top, l)y i to 81 at bottom, and backarm 
 from 1)}' 1 to 63, and underside as model. 
 
/*/afe 'J'i 
 
 .1 to '>a 
 
 8l> 10 
 
INDEX 
 
 How to iiK'asuie Plato I. 
 
 Figure 1, depth of Proof Centre and of sye 
 oil back and natural waist and blade meas- 
 ure, with Measuring Squaie. 
 
 Figure 2, diameter lengthwise with tVutre 
 Point. 
 
 Figure 3, diameter crosswise. 
 
 Figure I, shoulder, sye, and oliptic measures. 
 
 Figure H, depth of sye on back and natural 
 waist, taken with the incli measure. 
 
 Figure (>, breast and waist measure. 
 
 Figure 7, illustrating JNIeasuring S(|uare. 
 
 Figure 8, establishing centre all through. 
 
 How to draft Double-l)reasted Frock Coat and 
 how to api)ly the measures. Plates H and HI 
 
 Single-breasted Frock, and how to draft 
 Sleeve :uid Skirt, with Dress Coat, and 
 showing iiow to use the system without 
 Measuring square Plate IV. 
 
 Three styles of New York Walking Coat of 
 the Single ;ind Double-breasted form 
 ^ ' Plate V. 
 
 Single breasted Coat of the Register form, with 
 English and New York jackets.. Plate VI. 
 
 New York Surtout witli lapel growing, and 
 with lapel sewed on Plate VII. 
 
 Single-breasted Sack Coat, and how to 
 draft Plate VIII. 
 
 Two styles of Double-breasted Jacket with a 
 Reefer Plate IX. 
 
 Double an<l Single-breasted Sack Over 
 Coats Plate X. 
 
 Pages 
 ■ 6-9 
 
 10-12 
 
 13-15 
 
 16, 17 
 18-20 
 21, 22 
 23 
 24 
 25, 26 
 
 I'ages 
 Description of two styles of c()r|iulenl men's 
 C'oats, of the ])Ot-belly and corpulent (all 
 around) structures, with two styles of the 
 stooping structure with high siioul- 
 der Plate XI. 27-30 
 
 Description of Garrick or Inverness Cloak 
 
 with sleeve and without Plate XII. 31 
 
 Descriiition of King William Cloak with 
 
 sleeve Plate XHI. 32 
 
 Description of King William Cloak without 
 
 sleeve Plate XIV. 33 
 
 Description of Halt and Three-CJuarter circu- 
 lar Cloaks Plate XV. 34 
 
 Descriiition of [Military Cloak and Coats 
 
 Plates XVI and XVII. 3.J-37 
 
 Description of children's suit dr&sses, cuta- 
 way jacket with short breeches, Derby 
 jackets, <liagonal blouse, with over-sack. 
 .' Plate XVIII. 38, 39 
 
 Description of Vests, ami how to draft 
 
 Plate XIX. 40, 41 
 
 Description of pants, and how to measure and 
 draft them, tight fitting, with side stripe, 
 with large hips, also small hips. Plate XX. 42, 43 
 
 Description of corpulent men's Pants, two 
 styles, with knee breeches, long gaitei's 
 and short Plate XXI. 44, 45 
 
 Description of two styles of Lady's Basques 
 
 and Habits Plate XXII. 46, 47 
 
 Description of Shirt system with two styles 
 of Breeches, and two styles of Sleeves 
 Plate XXIII. 48 
 
C 20 
 
.ij!?5^ 
 
 .•^°^ 
 
 
 J."'^.. . 
 
 .* «.^ fi. '> 
 
 Of ; 
 
 ^^0' 
 
 .<°^ 
 
 
 ^v •" \« .. -P 
 
 
 *> 
 
 
 V^\vL-^' '^- 
 
 
 
 "^^ .i?' 
 
 •^^ S 
 
 
 
 *..'^" - 
 
 '. •'U 
 
 ?-y^%:^f!^;y' vw-y \™?^v** X/^^^ 
 
 V*-V V'-'Vv/.. "^*"''^*/ \*^-\/ "o^--^".o^ \'' 
 
 ^ . ^^ •'"^ . --^^Z ..^^ ^ °-W^** . -^^ % 'v^K** .^' ^^. 
 
 . ^ # ,' 
 
 
 
 
 '^ ^^ »!*;c;?:%%.. ^-iP" -<*^-- ""^