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Now Ready 
 
 Bound Volumes of the 
 
 Priscilla Fancy Work 
 
 Instruction Books 
 
 Hundreds of thousands of Needleworkers have purchased the paper-covered 
 Priscilla Instruction Books, and have been thoroughly delighted with their clear, 
 simple instructions for various kinds of Fancy Work. 
 
 However, there has long been a demand for these books in a more substantial 
 form so that they could be added to home libraries and withstand the hard 
 usage given books of reference. 
 
 In response to this demand, we now offer you the entire set of Priscilla 
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 titles stamped in gold. 
 
 Price, $1.35 per Volume, Postpaid 
 
 Each volume contains four Instruction Books as follows : 
 
 VOLUME I 
 Irish Crochet No. 1 
 Irish Crochet No. 2 
 Filet Crochet 
 Edgings and Insertion* 
 
 VOLUME III VOLUME r<l 
 
 Bead Work Punched Work Embroidery 
 
 VOLUME II 
 Tatting 
 Hardanger 
 Wool Knitting 
 Wool Crochet 
 
 VOLUME V 
 Filet Crochet No. 
 
 Basketry^ French and Eyelet Embroidery 
 
 Macrame Colored Cross Stitch No. 1 
 
 Bobbin Lace Colored Cross Stitch No. 2 
 
 Crochet Bedspreads 
 
 Netting 
 
 Drawn Work 
 
 Every book in the Priscilla Library is a genuine teacher. All the different 
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 the work just as clear and simple for the beginner as for the expert needleworker. 
 Send your order for the volumes you wish at once as the first edition is limited. 
 
 Priscilla Publishing Co., 85 Broad St., Boston, Mass. 
 
^risfciUa Smocking Jlook 
 
 A COLLECTION OF BEAUTIFUL 
 AND USEFUL PATTERNS 
 
 WITH 
 
 directions for Working 
 
 BY 
 
 LOUISE FLYNN 
 
 PRICE, 25 CENTS 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 ^\)t ^risiciUa $ut)lt£if)ing Companp 
 
 85 BROAD STREET, BOSTON. MASS. 
 
 Copyright, 1916, by The Priscilla Publishing Company 
 
 Trade Mark Reg. U. S. Patent Office 
 
 All rights reserved 
 
 Copyright in Great Britain and the Colonics 
 
.F6 
 
 A CiiAKMiNt; Tarty Dress for a Litti.f. Girl. Which Siuiu-a thl 
 
 SiMPLKST Form. Ske I'ly, ^i " 
 
 2 _ * " •,-' 
 
 ©CIA4311MJ1 
 
 r S.MCiCKI.M. IN lis 
 
 JUL 24 1916 
 
 » * 
 
THE ART OF SMOCKING 
 
 SMOCKING is not new, but is a form of needle- 
 work which is always in demand because of its 
 simplicity and beauty, and the opportunity it affords 
 for originality of design. It is, in a few words, the 
 embroidery of simple stitches upon the folds or plaits 
 of a shirred foundation, and may be used on any gar- 
 ment where fullness is desirable. It is charming lor 
 children's dresses, coats, bonnets, and muffs, as well 
 as women's waists, dresses, smocks, and other articles 
 of wearing apparel. The garments and simple de- 
 signs shown in this book should arouse an added in- 
 terest in this original, almost freehand work, in 
 which designs may be created as the work progresses. 
 
 Materials. — The materials which may be used an- 
 
 most varied, including linens, crepes, all silks not too 
 thin, striped and checked dimities, lawns, ginghams, and 
 similar goods, as well as velvet, chiffon, lace, albatross, 
 cashmere, and other woolen fabrics of like character. 
 On silk or woolen materials, silk threads should al- 
 ways be used for smocking, and on cotton fabrics, 
 embroidery cotton either fine or coarse, depending 
 upon whether a fine or coarse effect is desired. Two 
 threads of stranded cot- 
 ton are perhaps the best 
 for work upon children's 
 frocks and ladies' blouses 
 when delicate shading and 
 elaborate stitchery are to 
 be accomplished. For 
 more simple work in one 
 color on gingham or crepe, 
 a heavier embroidery cot- 
 ton may be used. 
 
 Preparation of Mate- 
 rial. — .\s h:is already 
 been stated, smocking is 
 embroidery upon the folds 
 or plaits of a shirred 
 foundation material, and 
 it is absolutely essential 
 that this foundation be 
 carefully prepared. In 
 fact the most important thing in regard to smocking 
 is the evenness of the gathering. This cannot be too 
 strongly impressed, as the whole beauty of the work 
 depends upon it. \'arious methods have been em- 
 
 I. ( 
 
 ATIIKRINr, TllRKAnS IN PROCESS ON .\ CHECKED 
 
 Material. See page 3 
 
 I'lG. 3. A !•■ 
 
 .\E Checkeli .Matkrial May .Also Hi: 
 Used. See page 4 
 
 ployed at different times by different workers in ar- 
 ranging a guide for the placement of these gathering 
 threads, the object being to space the threads at even 
 distances apart and to place the gathering stitches in 
 each row directly under 
 those in the one preced- 
 ing, taking up the same 
 amount of material in 
 each stitch. 
 
 Checked and Striped 
 Materials. — Perliaps the 
 simplest way of arriving 
 at this result and one ideal 
 for the beginner in smock- 
 ing is the use of checked 
 and striped materials, as 
 in bigs. I. J. and 3 on this 
 page. 
 
 Figure l shows per- 
 fectly the method for pre- 
 paring a piece of checked 
 dimity for smocking 
 stitches. In this case the 
 first and third lines are taken up for shirring, and two 
 checks are omitted. This distance between stitches 
 would make coarse work, about four or four and one- 
 half times for fullness when finished, depending on the 
 size of your check. 
 
 Figure 2 shows the use of a material with a stripe, 
 like striped dimity, that can be used for length of 
 stitch. Here we first show lines stitched by using the 
 sewing-machine, the width between the lines being 
 regulated by the presser foot. This little device of 
 stitching the lines is of the greatest value in using 
 striped materials, especially the striped dimity, where 
 the cords space the stitches. The stitching serves 
 only as a guide for the gathering threads, and is 
 clipped bit by bit and removed as the gathering 
 threads are run in. If the cords are too far apart, one 
 stitch between can be used; if the cords are too close 
 together, one can be omitted. Thus it is readily seen 
 
 In.. _>. (.iATHEKiVi. THKKAli> i ^ I K. ». KSS ON A .StkII'KII 
 
 Material with Lines Marked by Machine 
 Stitch I N<;. See page 3 
 
either fine work 
 or the reverse is 
 easily attainable 
 and can be cor- 
 rectly prepared. 
 
 Figure 3. — 
 Here again is 
 shown a 
 cbecl<ed mate- 
 rial tine enough 
 for every other 
 check to be 
 omitted in the 
 shirring, as 
 shown, and the 
 same distance 
 left between the 
 rows of shir- 
 ring, making a 
 square. After 
 tliese samples 
 have been 
 shirred, t h e 
 threads drawn 
 up moderately 
 snug and securely tied in pairs, the pieces are ready 
 for the smocking stitches. 
 
 Each line of gathering must have a separate thread, 
 and each thread should be started at the right-hand 
 side with a double stitch to hold the knot so that it 
 will not slip through when the thread is drawn up. 
 In this illustration a coarse cotton has been used for 
 gathering in order to show clearly, but a stout sew- 
 ing cotton is all that is necessary. 
 
 Figure 4. — -This illustration shows Fig. I with the 
 gathering threads drawn up. It is the wrong side of 
 the work. The right side, upon which the smocking 
 stitches are worked, presents a succession of folds. 
 (See Fig. g.) 
 
 The Sewing-Machine Method. — .'\s before stated, 
 it is of the greatest importance in smocking that the 
 work is perfectly prepared, as the entire beauty of 
 the work would be marred by imperfect lines in the 
 shirring. To attain this perfection on plain material 
 the sewinii-macbiiie may be used for marking lines 
 
 4. Checked Materi.\l as in Fig. 
 I, WITH Gatherlnc Threads. 
 See page 4 
 
 and spaces. The lines are to work upon and the 
 spaces are the size of the stitch, the presser foot be- 
 ing the guide between the lines. (See Fig. 5.) When 
 the rows of stitching are complete, the threads are 
 clipped about every two inches and removed a few 
 at a time in a manner not to obliterate the impres- 
 sion made by the machine-needle. These marks or 
 holes are used to determine the length of the shir- 
 ring stitch, as you shir in the holes the machine- 
 needle has made. If very fine work is desired, adjust 
 the machine to eight stitches to the inch. This gives 
 you a fullness of three times and is suitalile for tine 
 material. For heavier material adjust the machine to 
 six stitches to the inch. This gives about four times 
 the fullness. Smocking should rarely be fuller than 
 this and is seldom used with less fullness than twice 
 and one-half, which is very fine work. In using the 
 stitched lines, the presser foot gives you the width, 
 the size of the stitch gives you the length of your 
 stitch for smocking. 
 
 Table for Fullness. — 4 times the material for 
 fullness — six machine stitches to the inch. 
 
 iMWpp^ M^ i wi ^■^^■^Si— ■— ^w^^^Ni^J^ i^a ^ 
 
 Fig. 5. Lines and Spaces Marked by Sewing 
 
 Machine. First Shirring Thread Being 
 
 Rln. See page 4 
 
 3 times the fullness — eight machine stitches to the 
 inch. 
 
 2'A times the fullness — ten machine stitches to the 
 inch. 
 
 Figure 5 shows the lines of machine-stitching 
 with first shirring thread in process. A study of the 
 principle involved discloses the various possibilities 
 the method opens up for the work. With the excep- 
 tion of some honeycomb designs and the foregoing 
 elemental studies in checks, all of the work shown 
 
 Fig. 0. .M.\rLkiAL Makkki. u iiH TKA.VMtk Dui;. Sec 1"ig. 7. Method of Marking BV Rvi-f.d Letter Paper. 
 page 5 See page 5 
 
 4 
 
 JUL 24 1916 
 
in this book was done using this simple method of 
 the stitched lines. Indeed the writer has yet to use 
 any other method than this. On your sewing- 
 machine adjust the length of stitch according to the 
 requirements of the work, either long f<ir coarse or 
 short for line work. Let the prcsser foot guide the 
 spaces, and you can mark up your material correctly 
 and quickly. 
 
 Using this method i^ the only possible way to smock 
 on curves correctly. ( See Fig. 33 on pages 16 and 
 17.) A perfect circle ten inches in diameter was used 
 for the yoke shown. The entire piece of work was 
 stitched row after row, using the prcsser foot of the 
 machine to guide the distance between the lines. One 
 can readily grasp the principle of evenness of smock- 
 ing, and unless the machitie used is at fault, the work 
 must be correct. Crease a line or mark with a thread 
 just where the first stitch begins for each succeed- 
 ing row of stitching. 
 
 illll^ 
 
 ML 
 
 IHif 
 
 [/Iff '[/id )j^^ 
 
 tTTf 
 
 1 
 
 
 if 
 
 Ik., y. CJu iLi.M, Stitch in Fkikess, ash So.me 
 Variation.s. See page 5 
 
 Figure 6. Shirring by Means of Dots. — This il- 
 lustration shows an example of the dotted lines as 
 used in the preparation of material for smocking. 
 This dotting can be accomplished with the transfer 
 patterns which are prepared for the purpose; or by 
 the method described and illustrated in Fig. 7. It 
 is useful for velvet, as the sewing-machine injures 
 or marks the pile of the velvet. The method is good 
 to use also for a fabric like chiffon, which does not 
 stitch well unless a paper is placed below it, as one 
 works on lace. Mark the dots on the wrong side 
 of the material, and in shirring take up the dots the 
 same way as the cords of the checked dimity. 
 (See Fig. i and pattern of dots on page 32.) 
 
 Figure 7. — Another method of marking material 
 with (lots is accomplished with two sheets of ruled 
 letter paper and impression paper. Place the mate- 
 rial to be dotted over the impression paper and the 
 lined paper above this, one sheet with the lines per- 
 pendicular and one sheet with the lines horizontal. 
 Now with a pencil, or other not too sharp point, 
 dot out your dotted lines or points as you wish, mov- 
 
 ifiimitniini imitutiiii tni! 
 
 iftiHititttiiiHifinimiii 
 
 IIIIIIIIIIIKKIIKIIII 
 
 Fig. S. Outline Stitch. See page s 
 
 ing the perpendicular lines down from the horizontal 
 lines from line to line. For a small piece of work 
 this is practical and is at every woman's command. 
 Enough preiiaraliun for a child's dress can be done 
 correctly in a lew minutes' time without the use of 
 a sewing-machine or any outside assistance such as 
 transfers. 
 
 Smocking Stitches 
 
 Figure 8. Outline Stitch. — This stitch is most 
 simple. It is in tact the well-known embroidery 
 stitch worked from left to right <m the plaits of the 
 shirred material, the gathering thread acting as a 
 guide to keep the work straight. It is used in start- 
 ing most pieces of smocking. 
 
 Start your thread on the second plait at the gather- 
 ing thread on the wrong side of the material, bring- 
 ing the needle up in the first plait on the right side 
 of the material. Take one stitch from left to right 
 in the top of each plait, keeping the thread below 
 the needle, and each stitch directly over the gather- 
 ing thread. Fasten off thread at end of each row. 
 This illustration shows four rows of outline stitch 
 worked on material dotted and shirred as in Fig. 6. 
 
 Figure 9. Outline Stitch Variations. — Here we 
 have plain material with rows of smocking worked 
 in various examples of the outline stitch. The prepa- 
 ration for the work was the stitched lines described 
 in Fig. 5, the goods shirred, threads secured, and the 
 material gently pulled into position as seen. Then 
 on the first row of shirring Was worked one row of 
 outline stitch across the line as shown. The second 
 row was done in the same manner and third is in 
 process, position of the needle showing exactly how 
 the stitch is taken. The fourth row shows two rows 
 of outline worked close together ; the first worked on 
 the line as previously; the second row below the first 
 and close to it. The fifth row shows four rows in out- 
 
 l)oi m.i, ()UTLi-\t Srncn. Set page 
 
isiiiiiiiimii 
 
 /u\/iMi\/\>\nii^in'i/i(»/i'i!iiifiii/ 
 
 i 
 
 Fig. II. SiNGLii Cable Stitlii. Sec page 6 
 
 line and forms a band. Wlien u.sing shades of one 
 color this simple border becomes quite elaborate and 
 can be worked thus : The lirst row with the thread 
 kept below the needle ; the second row witli the thread 
 kept above the needle; the third row, as the first 
 row, with the thread kept ])e!ow the needle ; the 
 fourth row with the thread above the needle. 
 
 Figure lo. Double Outline Stitch. — The braided 
 effect shown by this sample is secured by working 
 two rows of outline stitch closely together over each 
 gathering thread ; in one row the thread being held 
 above the needle, and in tlie other below tlie needle. 
 
 Figure ii. Single Cable Stitch. — This stitch is 
 worked from left to right and is very mucli like the 
 outline stitch. You start your thread at the gatlier- 
 ing thread on the wrong side of the material, secur- 
 ing your knot in the second plait, and bringing the 
 needle up in the first plait on the right side of the 
 material as in outline stitch. Take one stitch in every 
 plait, keeping the thread above the needle in the first 
 stitch and beknv the needle in the next stitch, then 
 above the needle again, and so on to the end of 
 the line, keeping each stitch exactly on top of 
 the gathering t h r e a d. 
 
 three lines of double cable, if worked in colors, are 
 sufficient decoration for a child's play dress of blue 
 chambray or natural-color linen. On blue the colors 
 could be Turkey-red first row ; a blue different from 
 the dress, second row; and one shade of orange. On 
 natural-color linen dark brown, orange, and black 
 with a touch of green would be most effective. Thus, 
 at an e.vpense of a few cents, an otherwise plain 
 unattractive play frock is made a thing of beauty and 
 a joy to the small wearer. 
 
 Figure 13. Single and Double Wave Stitch. — 
 
 The wave proper consists of four stitches worked 
 gradually up and four stitches worked gradually 
 down again in the outline stitch, and is worked from 
 
 Figure 12. Double 
 Cable Stitch. — T h i > 
 stitch is in order at this 
 time, but the beginner is 
 advised to leave it until 
 she has acquired some of 
 the other stitches, as it 
 may be somewhat con- 
 fusing. The double cable 
 stitch is simply two rows 
 of single cable worked 
 closely together, the first 
 sliglitly above the gather- 
 ing thread and the sec- 
 ond slightly below. Work 
 the first row as previously 
 described (Fig. 11, Single 
 Cable), and in the sec- 
 ond row reverse the or- 
 der of the thread above 
 or below the needle. As 
 the first row begins witli 
 the thread above the 
 needle, the second should 
 begin with the thread be- 
 low the needle. These 
 
 ^m;'i?i!!5ir^;iii 
 
 Bh'nm^^' 
 
 Fig. 12. DofBLE Cable Stitch. See page 6 
 
 left to right. Start your thread on the second plait 
 on the right side of material as in outline, and work 
 to the line above, using one, two, three stitches, one in 
 each plait with the thread below the needle going 
 up. Now with the thread above the needle take one 
 stitch on the line next to the third stitch up with 
 the thread above the needle and work to the line be- 
 low, using three stitches gradually. Then witli the 
 thread below the needle 
 take one stitch next to the 
 last stitch on the line 
 and work again to the line 
 above, using three stitches 
 and repeat. If your space 
 permits you can use four 
 stitches in place of three, 
 and sometimes \'\ve or six 
 stitches, using two lines. 
 This depends on the pleas- 
 ure of the worker and 
 the result to be attained. 
 Two or more rows of 
 wave stitch may be 
 worked one above the 
 other as in the illustra- 
 tion. 
 
 Figure 14. — Double cable 
 stitch repeated in many 
 rows is extremely effective, 
 especially when the work 
 is done in shades of one 
 color. Double C a 1) 1 e 
 when used in this manner 
 is most exacting, and no 
 mistakes can possibly be 
 
 
 Single a.vd Double Wave Stitch. 
 page 6 
 
 6 
 
 bcc 
 
permitted, as one false stitch throws all into confu- 
 sion. This pattern is particularly good for a boy's 
 frock. The top and bottom rows may be black and 
 those between in color. 
 
 A Double Wave or Diamond Wave is worked in 
 the same manner as the single wave, working the sec- 
 
 Fic. 14. A Secom 
 
 •'..NAMIM.K (IK Dmr.i.i- Caiii.i Stiti II. 
 
 See page 6 
 
 ond row of wave in the opposite direction from the 
 first rows, forming a diamond pattern as shown at 
 top and bottom of Fig. I.l. 
 
 This pattern used on a girl's simple play or school 
 frock would be charmingly distinctive if the mate- 
 rial was in pink and white stripe, either lawn, dimity 
 or madras, the stripes about one-eighth of an inch 
 wide. ."Xftcr stitching the lines on your sewing- 
 machine, gather for the work, taking up the white 
 lines and putting the pink lines in the backgroitn<l. 
 This gives a white space for smocking, which can be 
 done to advantage, using four shades of pink cotton, 
 size S. Stitch about twelve rows for this pattern. On 
 the third row from the top line the double wave or 
 diamond shown in the design is worked. This de- 
 sign is good and more important-looking it four 
 stitches are used up and four down for the diamond. 
 
 ii» .4vtl>- M> i|» .|> .• 
 
 I i^iilKIV i|» >|» '|i 
 
 I i|> ><v *•• »1» »!• 
 
 j|» i|> ill''!' 'T >•» r 
 
 illlilllUlllllllltllllif 
 
 /HMIKUIfMliaill 
 
 
 ilLflMcEllUIMlKfinn 
 
 :iimmmmmrn 
 
 
 j/Kiiiiiiiiiifiiiifiii 
 
 Fig. i6. Feathered Diamond Stitch with Doi'ble 
 Rows OF Outline Top.anu Bottom. See page 8 
 
 l"lG. 15. IIIA.MO.M) StiTCM CoMlilN'Ell WITH SlNliLE AND 
 
 Double Outline, Figs. 8 and 10. See page 8 
 
 Practice a little and determine which way you like 
 the best. The second row of the diamond is com- 
 menced on the fourth line and worked up to meet 
 the intersection of the diamond on the line above, 
 forming a complete diamond. By close study of the 
 illustration it is made very clear how this is worked. 
 On the sixth line the single wave is commenced. 
 Securing the thread and starting as for the diamond 
 stitch, work from the sixth line to the fifth line the 
 same number of stitches as in the diamond above, 
 making the same turn on the line, two stitches, one 
 up and one down, as in the diamond. Work as 
 many rows as you are using shades of a color, and 
 finish with the same diamond used to begin the 
 design. 
 
 The work on the sleeve could be simplified using 
 one row of diamond, two rows of wave, one row of 
 diamond : or simply one row of diamond is good 
 here, with a row- of outline stitch each side of it. 
 It is safe to allow three and one-half times for 
 fullness used to smock in this manner. 
 
 A Curved Wave (see Fig. 19) is worked from line 
 
of any gathering thread to the line above, using four 
 stitches, as in single wave- ; then three stitches on the 
 line ; then four stitches down to the line below ; then 
 three stitches on this line ; tlien four stitches up to the 
 line above; and as before, 
 three stitches on the line. 
 It is important to remem- 
 ber that in going up in all 
 forms of the wave thi' 
 thread is kept above the 
 needle. Very little prac- 
 tice, and one acquires 
 this quite readily. The 
 necessity of some practice 
 is urged upon the learner, 
 before attempting gar- 
 ments. The curved wave 
 is usually used double, 
 the second row the same 
 as the first, one line 
 apart, as in Fig. ig. 
 
 Figure 15. Diamond 
 Stitch. — The stitcli i- 
 worked from left to right 
 -Start your thread a-- 
 in previous directions. 
 Take one stitch in tin 
 first plait over the gather 
 ing thread, w'ith yom 
 thread below the nei 
 die. then one stitch in 
 the second plait beside 
 the first stitch, with the 
 thread above the needle. 
 This is the same as the 
 cable stitch. Next pass 
 down to half-way between 
 the first and second gatli- 
 ering thread, and take one 
 stitch in the third plait 
 with the thread above the 
 needle, and another stitch 
 in the fourth plait beside 
 the third with the tliread 
 below the needle. Then 
 pass up again to the first 
 gathering thread and take 
 one stitch in the fifth plait 
 with the thread below the 
 needle, and the stitch lie- 
 side it in the sixth plait 
 with the thread above the 
 needle : and continue to the 
 end of the line. Be care- 
 ful to take one stitch in 
 every plait. This gives 
 one-half of the diamond. 
 The other half of the dia- 
 mond is formed by start- 
 ing on the second gather- 
 ing thread and working 
 up to half-way between the 
 second and first gathering thread, so that the stitches 
 meet the first half of the diamond. 
 
 This simple pattern looks well when worked on the 
 cotton crepes so much in favor for lingerie and simi- 
 
 VJV\f\fV' 
 
 wwia. 
 
 lar uses. After marking the shirring lines on the 
 sewing-machine shir the material, using the holes 
 made by the machine-needle in stitching the rows. 
 A fullness of three times is desirable. On the first 
 gathering thread work 
 outline stitch, then one row 
 of one-half diamond; then 
 outline; then comes one- 
 lialf diamond on the 
 fourth row ; then outline 
 again on the fifth row, 
 thus finishing the top of 
 the pattern. On the 
 seventh shirring thread 
 begin the diamond stitch 
 that forms the centre 
 band, using three stitches 
 up and three stitches down 
 the one - half diamond. 
 Work six rows, making 
 live complete diamonds, 
 i f you wish a wider band 
 lo more rows, of course. 
 .Shades of blue may be 
 used throughout. The 
 double outline is used, as 
 sliown in the bottom row, 
 with diamond stitch be- 
 tween. A wise selection 
 of materials and perfect 
 workmanship makes these 
 simple patterns charming. 
 The lower band consist- 
 ing of one row of diamond 
 stitch with outline on 
 eitlier side is all that is 
 needed for the sleeves. 
 
 Figure 16. Feathered 
 Diamond. — W'c here have 
 one of the most desirable 
 stitches used in smocking, 
 the feathered diatnond. In 
 appearance it is most elab- 
 orate, and it lends itself 
 especially to shaded work 
 and where a solid elabo- 
 rate effect is desired. .Ml 
 workers are enthusiastic 
 over the possibilities of the 
 feathered diamond, and in 
 the working it grows rap- 
 idly, presenting few difii- 
 culties. It is really one of 
 the easiest stitches to ac- 
 quire and one of the most 
 agreeable to make. This 
 sample was worked i n 
 navy blue cotton No. 5 on 
 white linen ; eighteen rows 
 of stitching were required 
 for the gathering threads. 
 The first and tliird rows of 
 smocking are in outline with feathered diamond com- 
 menced on the fourth row of shirring at the right. It 
 is to be remembered that the feathered diamond is 
 one of three stitches that is worked from right to left. 
 
 I I'.i I \' \ \iiN Ki' S n 
 OuTLiNK. (Fio. 8), Cahi-k (Fig. 
 AND Wave (Fig. 13) 
 
You begin by securing the thread on the second plait 
 as usual, that the knot does not get loose and spoil 
 the work. Bring the needle up on the first plait on the 
 right side of the goods on the first gathering thread. 
 Now take the first and second plaits together, keep- 
 ing the thread before the needle as in ordinary feather 
 stitch; then one-half way between the lirst and sec- 
 ond gathering thread take the second and third plaits 
 together; then just escaping the second gathering 
 thread take the third, and fourth plaits together; the 
 thread as previously used before the needle. Then 
 up to one-half way between the first and second 
 gathering thread take the fourth and fifth plaits to- 
 gether; then on the first gathering thread take the 
 lifth and sixth plaits together: then down half-wax 1)e- 
 tween the first and second gathering thread take the 
 sixth and seventh plaits together; and continue in this 
 manner to the end of the line. This is one-half of a 
 feathered diamond. The second row is worked simi- 
 larly, starting on the third gathering thread and work- 
 ing to meet the first half diamond on the second gath- 
 ering thread. Work until you have eight rows of 
 diamonds. Finish as in the beginning with two rows 
 in outline. 
 
 Figure 17. Vandyke Stitch. — This stitch is of 
 unusual beauty and importance and is one of the few 
 stitches worked from right to left. Start your thread 
 
 ■ kiuiuill II II 
 
 IMKIIIIIUHtnilMnitlMIDMI 
 
 llllrttlMlHlhliilfiililfHtMlH 
 
 ft tt rt ft <l ft n jj « »\ \\ \\ \\ ^\ ^\ y\ \\ /I 
 
 
 \ • V ' 'i » ». f i.if r, f I' 
 
 •« tt l« w 
 
 li !• r» •' 
 
 LMfiiilJ 
 
 " •/ V u 
 
 ' ** V W «/ M »/ »/ V 
 
 '^ " -i .? ; H M A 
 
 \» U «t *f "' ^* ^» " *' '* ^- •. 
 
 .. ;♦ «* rt * »♦ •* :; * ^ ,# )si )k )* .♦ 4 . 
 
 Fic. 18. 1'mi\i ,\oki,ii, in DiAMoMi SrircH o.s 
 CHECKtn DiMiTV. See page n 
 
 I'll., icj. Till; CiKVEu W'avk i.^ lltKi. Shown, and 
 
 Another \ ari.\tion of the Diamond Point. 
 
 See page 12 
 
 on the second plait on the right-hand side of the 
 material in the usual manner on the first gathering 
 thread. Bring the needle up on the first plait on the 
 right side of tlie material. Pass the needle through 
 the first two plaits together, and take one over. 
 Then come down to the second gathering thread and 
 take the second and third plait together with an- 
 other stitch over. Then up again taking the third 
 and fourth plait together with another stitch over; 
 and so on to the end of the line. If the space be- 
 tween the lines is wide enough, as when the shirring 
 is done by the transfer dot method, you can start 
 half-way lietween the two gathering threads and work 
 down or up to the lines. A space of half the distance 
 iKtween two gathering threads should always be left 
 after every line of this stitch when worked single. 
 
 The Double Vandyke Stitch is simply two 
 rows of single \andyke stitch. Start your thread 
 nn the third gathering thread, working up to the 
 ^econd gathering thread ; then down to the third 
 Slathering thread, according to the previous directions 
 Hiven for the single \'andyke. 
 
 The X'andyke and the double Vandyke are used 
 to advantage in points where either stitch has been 
 used in connection with the pattern above the point 
 ( See Figs. 26 and 28) . The single V^andyke is at its 
 
Fig. 20. Blouse of Chkcked Dimity Smockf.u in Blue. See Detail Fig. 22 and page 13 
 
 best when in a point. Onc-lialf a line or 
 space is kept open between rows of single 
 Vandyke, as shown. The double N'andyke 
 is used to good advantage to linish a pat- 
 tern, giving a fringe-like eflfect ; it can be 
 used where the \'andyke has been used in 
 the pattern above it. Be careful to separate 
 different stitches or patterns by a row of 
 outline or cable stitch ; otherwise, the 
 beauty of the stitches is lost and a confused 
 effect is the result. 
 
 There are only four stitches used in 
 smocking that are worked from right to 
 left: the Feathered Diamond: the Vandyke; 
 the little embroidered dot that is frequently 
 worked between lines; also the Honeycomb 
 stitch. 
 
 The illustration (Fig. 17) begins with a row 
 of single cable, which is really outline stitch 
 with the thread reversed every other stitch. 
 First the thread is below the needle ; then 
 above the needle ; then below the needle ; 
 then above the needle. This row of single 
 cable is followed by a row in single outline. 
 The useful and attractive band separating 
 the single \andyke from the double Vandyke 
 is placed between two rows of single outline, 
 and is composed of stitches in double cable ; 
 then a full diamond worked, using three 
 stitches up and three stitches down. Then 
 two double cable stitches followed by the dia- 
 mond stitch and these stitches are alter- 
 
 FiG. 21. Fagot- 
 ing Stitch. 
 See page 13 
 
 10 
 
 natcd across the line. Nothing is better than 
 this simple line of stitches where an incon- 
 spicuous separating line is desired. This 
 illustration was worked on a striped dimity, 
 lines stitched and spaces for stitches for 
 shirring gauged by lines in the dimity. 
 
 The student in smocking who has mas- 
 tered all of the preceding studies or illus- 
 trations, may now have the satisfaction of 
 being rewarded, as we are ready for work 
 f)n every variety of garment permitting the 
 use of smocking. For blouses, handker- 
 chief linen, crepe, chiffon cloth, etc., are 
 favorite materials. Garden and sports smocks 
 are being reproduced for house wear in 
 Italian silk and crepe de Chine, voiles and 
 other lovely materials. All sorts of lingerie 
 are worked appropriately in this mode, and 
 boudoir caps, matinees, etc., are included in 
 the list. Motor bonnets are seen smocked 
 to advantage. In children's wear frocks 
 come first, and are made from six months' 
 size to the party frock for a miss of four- 
 teen years with equally satisfactory results. 
 .^ lovely crepe for the house smocks comes 
 in part wool and part silk at a moderate 
 price, and when showing a dainty flower or 
 dot of color, the smocking may be in the 
 same colors with fine effect. A wider field 
 for originality is seldom open to an inves- 
 tigating mind. 
 
coocc<c 
 
 
 ' ' 1^ ^■ 
 
 
 
 ^ % I. I I. »?', , 
 ,>.' -II. »«-/-■ 
 
 ■II I'W 
 
 A* 01. 
 
 iiril^ 
 
 
 ♦•1 
 
 Figure i8. The Making of Points. — Checked 
 dimity was used lor speed in working. Kleven 
 rows of shirring was used. This includes only two 
 row's of diamond in the point to be shirred. The new- 
 idea in this illustration is the point in diamond stitch. 
 If the preceding studies and illustrations have been 
 assimilated the worker is ready for the point, which 
 is made without shirring its full depth. .\ most im- 
 portant time-saving demonstration, 
 which the worker is urged to acquire. 
 
 One goes readily through the liody 
 of the design, using first outline stitch, 
 then double cable, then outline in posi- 
 tion shown, then our recent lesson in 
 Vandyke is put into practice ; then 
 outline and double cable and outline 
 again I'mish the tody of the design; 
 and here we encounter 
 our point on the second 
 row below the outline. 
 The first row of dia- 
 mond is worked from 
 line to line above across 
 the line. The second 
 row is worked in the 
 same manner as the tirst 
 row except you begin on 
 the third row of shir- Fk;. 24. Reverse Over-a.n 
 
 N Blouse, Fig. 20 
 
 ring and work to the second row to meet the tirst row 
 of diamond. (See Kig. 15.) This makes, as you see. 
 a perfect diamond. 
 
 Now holding your work so that the plaits are 
 perpendicular as shown, work the second diamond, 
 dropping one-half diamond on each side, or making 
 each succeeding row one diamond less than the pre- 
 ceding one. .As the eye is now trained to distance 
 and one knows the requirements, it is 
 unnecessary to shir for the point. 
 Hold the work as directed, or secure 
 the top of the piece to a table or 
 other firm surface, using thumb- 
 tacks and holding each fold where it 
 would naturally be if shirred. Pull 
 the plaits in place. It is advisable to 
 baste or sew firmly a piece of cloth 
 across the top of your 
 work to use in pinning 
 it down with the thumb- 
 tacks. In this way your 
 smocking is not injured, 
 and jou can hold your 
 plaits as tightly as is 
 necessary. One might, 
 if e.xperiencing difficul- 
 ties, practice a point by 
 itself. 
 
 iLLio.N' .Stitch 
 page 13 
 
 D-OvFj< Stitch. See page 13 
 11 
 
'oiM IN UiAMiiNii Smxii. 
 page 14 
 
 hM-c 
 
 Figure 19 is again worked on checked dimity to 
 further illustrate the point. The outline and Vandyke 
 stitch are now old acquaintances, so we proceed to the 
 curved wave. This is much admired, and gives an 
 elaborate, unusual ai)pearance to a piece of work. 
 However, it is simple enough in execution. The 
 wave we have had and mastered (Fig. 13), and the 
 curved wave is very similar. Thus work from a 
 given line four outline stitches up to the line above; 
 then, curving very slightly, three stitches in out- 
 line are worked just above the line; then four out- 
 line stitches are worked down again to the tirst 
 line; then three outline .stitches are worked just be- 
 low this line, and then four stitches in outline again 
 to the line above; then the three in outline just above 
 the line. This is one row of the curved wave. The 
 second line is worked one space either below or 
 above the first line. In this case. Fig. 10, fifteen lines 
 were used or fifteen checks. The two rows of 
 \'andyke were worked and then the curved lines or 
 wave put. Between these lines is shown a row of 
 dots in a deeper shade than the waved lines. These 
 
 dots are worked from right to left. Two plaits are 
 taken together and two stitches taken over them. 
 Then the needle is carried under two plaits, and 
 in the ne.\t two plaits another dot is worked. The 
 point in this case begins with one row of full 
 diamond across the piece. This row of diamonds 
 is divided into spaces of six diamonds. As one 
 proceeds drop one diamond in every succeeding 
 row. one-half on either side. These two patterns are 
 charming and quite elaborate enough for all or- 
 dinary uses. Of course, if you fail to make your 
 t'oiiil without shirring, you will have to resort to 
 shirred lines until you are a more independent worker. 
 
 Spacing Points. — There is no inflexible rule for 
 spacing points, as points are used large or small, as 
 suits the requirements of the work and the taste of 
 the worker. (See Figs. 18 and 19.) Count your 
 diamonds when across the line. Divide the number 
 c\enly if you can, or unevenly, if you must. Make 
 as many points as required, using the same number 
 of stitches in all. If you have twenty-five diamonds 
 you can have five points of four diamonds each, 
 leaving always a space between the points of one ilia- 
 mond in the first row. As rows increase the space 
 increases in proportion, as you drop one-half dia- 
 mond on either side as you proceed or narrow your 
 work. Suppose you find you have twenty-live dia- 
 monds in all; you must start four points of four 
 diamonds each, making twenty diamonds. Now you 
 ha\'e one extra rlinni'md In jir'i^-irlc f^ir nnrl rmi use 
 
 I'lG. Jb, 
 
 Pol.N'T IX V.\NnVKl: 
 
 page 
 
 Stitch. 
 
 See h'ig. 17 and 
 
 12 
 
 ii 
 
this in the ccntrt- or third point to advantage, as it 
 usually looks better to have the centre of the gar- 
 ment with a deeper point than the other points. Tlie 
 illustration shows a point of nine diamonds. Figure 
 19 shows a point of six diamonds, and one readily 
 understands that points are not arbitrary factors, but 
 are quite a<laptable. 
 
 Figure ao. Ladies' Blouse of Checked Dimity. — 
 
 The blouse sliown is' smocked and embroidered in 
 three shades of blue. Two threads of stranded cot 
 ton were used throughout. 
 
 Waist and sleeves are of the checked dimity, with 
 collar, cuffs, and vestee of handkerchief linen 
 edged with applied hems of the dimity. 
 
 The materials used were as follows : Three yards 
 checked dimity ; 5 skeins stranded cotton ; I dozen 
 buttons ; ' .> yard handkerchief linen, for collar, 
 vestee, and culTs. The applied hems w'ere finished 
 on their edges with a reversed over-and-over stitch 
 (see Fig. -'4), and joined to collar, cuffs, and vestee. 
 using the fagoting stitch with buttonhole stitch 
 down the centre, as shown by Fig. 21. The illus 
 tration does not convey an adequate impression of 
 the charming color and stitch combinations. A use- 
 ful linish liaving very good effect was the simu- 
 lated buttons or .spiders on either side of the blouse 
 front worked in two shades of blue. (See Fig, 51, 
 page 26.) No detailed description is needed of these 
 stitches, as the illustrations are perfectly comprehen- 
 sive. To make the sprays of embroidery a spool is 
 
 I'oiNr i.v Dorni.i; \'\\ii\ki 
 Fig. 17 and page 16 
 
 STiTi 11. .See 
 
 Fig, -7. Jahot Showim; \ Practicai. Ai-imji ation 0¥ 
 
 Point in Dia.mdnd or Vasuyki; Stitch. 
 
 See. page 16 
 
 used to curve the stems that are marked with a pen- 
 cil and worked in outline stitch. The budlike ef- 
 fect of the bullion-stitch embroidery is secured by 
 taking three stitches in bullion stitch, winding the 
 thread si.x times around the needle. (See Fig. 23.) 
 The centre stitch can be in a deeper shade, with 
 charming effect. 
 
 The smocking pattern across the top of the waist 
 fronts where attached to the yoke is shown in detail 
 on page II. .\ny waist pattern may oe used which 
 proviiles for gathered fronts att.iched to a shoulder 
 yoke, allowing for a fullness of three times, if checked 
 dimity is used (as in Fig. I). If plain material is 
 used, an<l shirring threads marked by sewing-ma- 
 
 13 
 
Fig. 29. HoNEvco^rr! Smacking Dom; un liA.\D-Rux 
 Ticks. See page 17 
 
 chine method, allow for fullness according to tahle 
 on page 4. Beginners are advised to try a sample 
 of the goods they wish to use for fullness, before 
 beginning a blouse. 
 
 Figure 22. — This illustration shows in detail the 
 work done on the blouse shown on the previous 
 page, and a description of the stitches will not be 
 given, reference to preceding directions being 
 deemed sufficient. Nineteen rows of shirrings were 
 made for the smocking of the fronts, using every 
 second cord of the dimity, giving a fullness of 
 three times. The first row is outline stitch ; the 
 second row double cable, which is two rows of 
 single cable; the third row is outline; the fourth 
 row is a curved wave, beginning on the fifth line 
 and working to the fourth line; the fifth row is the 
 second of the curved wave, beginning on the 
 sixth line and worked to fifth line, four stitches 
 up, one on each of four plaits, three above the 
 line, and four stitches down to the line below ( see 
 illustration for proportions) just meets the line 
 in the curve (see direction for curved wave. Fig. 
 19); the sixth line is outline; seventh line is 
 double cable; eighth line is outline; ninth line is 
 Vandyke worked down to the tenth line ; tenth 
 line just meets the line, leaving room for tin- 
 lower Vandyke to join on the line : eleventh 
 line, worked to the tenth line, is Vandyke, mak- 
 ing double Vandyke; twelfth line is outline: thir- 
 teenth line is double cable; fourteenth line is out- 
 line. On the fifteenth line the diamond is be- 
 
 gun for the points, working to the si.xtecnth 
 line six and one-half times across the line; 
 the seventeenth line is worked to the six- 
 teenth line, completing the diamond. Work 
 across the line. (See detail of diamond stitch. 
 Fig. 15.) The following rows of diamonds 
 forming points are worked w'ithout shirring by 
 holding or fastening the work in a manner to 
 retain plaits already formed. This method 
 possesses the added virtue of leaving the mate- 
 rial free from shirring marks as well as being 
 a time-saver. I never mark a point except 
 when doing honeycomb work. 
 
 The finishing ornaments at the tip of the 
 point are in bullion stitch taken three times, 
 with the thread wound seven times around the 
 needle. The needle used should be round 
 eyed, as this sort has no enlargement at the 
 eye and allows the stitch to slip easily ofT the 
 needle. Otherwise the stitch is spoiled. 
 
 Figure 25. — The illustration shows a design 
 suitable for women's frocks and blouses, or for 
 children's frocks. When used on a crepe de 
 Chine frock or blouse the sinocking stitches 
 may be worked in silks of the same shade with 
 a very good effect. The illustration shown was 
 (lone with white cotton on plain pink madras. 
 The sewing-machine w-as^^used to secure the 
 lines and spaces, and in this case the point 
 was also worked, using the shirred lines. Stitch 
 
 Fio. JO. M.\i H I \ I -S ( 
 
 Kl.CO.M .ML.NUtU 
 
 \i<i: .\i.>o 
 
 bee page 18 
 
 14 
 
on your sewing-machine twenty-four lines. 
 Do the preparation for tlie snioclcing stitches 
 as shown by Kig. 5, page 4. Draw up the 
 shirring threads, secure them ; pull the work 
 into place and work the lirst row in single 
 outline stitch (see Fig. 6, page 4)- Work 
 the second row in single cable stitch across 
 the line (see Kig. 11); the third row in 
 single outline stitch across the line. On the 
 fourth gathering thresd work a wave or 
 half-diamond, using three stitches up and 
 three stitches down (see Fig. 15), working 
 down to the fifth line. This gives one-half 
 of the diamond, as shown in the illustration. 
 (The wave and the half-diamond are fre- 
 quently the same thing, depending on its 
 application.) The second row of diamond 
 stitch is worked, beginning on the sixth 
 gathering thread, and down to the seventh, 
 as shown by Fig. 15, page ". Reversing the 
 points on the seventh gathering thread work 
 to the eighth, as on the line above. This 
 secures a wave efTect on either side of a 
 diamond. This is often named the double 
 diamond. 
 
 This idea can be carried out in any num- 
 ber of stitches, thus increasing tlic size of 
 the wave and of the diamond, and several 
 rows of \va\e can be worked. When doing 
 shaded work this idea is extremely desir- 
 able. The three lines following this pattern 
 show single outline, cable and single out- 
 line, as in the beginning of the illustration. 
 Now we have a point worked in the dia- 
 mond stitch, using two stitches, one up and 
 one down. Work one full diamond across 
 
 I'lG. jj. Det.ml of Smocki.ng on Child's Coat 
 
 lie. Ji. CniLo's Lung Chat ok White 1'rench Sf.R(.k. 
 See page 18 
 
 the line; then divide the line, as is shown in the illus- 
 tration. Work row after row in diamond stitch, drop- 
 ping one-half diamond at each side of every row ; thus 
 you narrow to a point. This is an excellent piece of 
 work for a beginner in smocking to practice on for 
 plain and shaded work, and to firmly establish the 
 principle of the point. In working the diamond point, 
 one applies the same principle as in the cliamonds in 
 the centre of the middle row. 
 
 Figure 26. — Here we have the Vandyke stitch, both 
 single and double. The double Vandyke is shown in 
 line row of the band, with the familiar and useful 
 i.utlinc on either side. The single Vandyke forms the 
 point. The mastering of this illustration is most essen- 
 tial at this time, as used in connection with the pre- 
 \ious illustration (Fig. 2.^). The detail of the Van- 
 dyke stitch is given on page 8, Fig. 17, and need not 
 be repeated here. This point, as shown, was worked 
 on stripc<l dimity. The lines were stitched on the 
 sewing-machine and the cords in the material used 
 
 IS 
 
Fic. 3.?. An ExAMi 
 
 CuRVKK Lines, thk i 
 
 THE Number or I 
 
 Sc 
 
 for spacing the 
 s t i t c li e s . 
 Thirty- 
 one rows were 
 used and the 
 point begun 
 with twenty- 
 one stitches. A 
 space of one 
 line was ob- 
 served between 
 each row, and 
 one - half stitch 
 was dropped on 
 either side as 
 the work pro- 
 gressed, as in 
 every case in 
 making points. 
 
 The value of 
 shading is well dem- 
 onstrated in such 
 work as this, and 
 makes for beauty in 
 an unusual degree. 
 Commence at the base 
 of the point with the 
 darkest shade and work 
 lighter toward the tip. 
 Smocking, to be desirable, 
 need not of necessity be ex- 
 tremely line in quality or exe 
 cution. Just good work and ^r- 
 good designing with suitability in 
 application are the requisites. 
 
 Figure 27.— The jabot illustrated is o- 
 
 a dainty affair, and possesses much 
 beauty of workmanship. The material of ''^^. 
 handkerchief linen, edgc<l with thread lace, 
 was ably supplemented by the dainty smocking 
 work, in shades of violet, two threads of the six- 
 strand cotton being used. The embroidery shown 
 I'n point and in the centre of the jabot was in French 
 .stem stitch and Inillion stitch. Stem stitch is a running 
 stitch covered with over-and-over stitch. The bullion stitch 
 
 was taken three times with the thread wrapped seven times d' 
 
 around the needle, forming tiny budlike effects, with the centre _j_.. 
 
 stitch of a darker shade. This our illustratinn shows plainly. .\ piece ^"^. 
 
 of linen fourteen inches square is required : the bottom is slanted from two 
 inches on each side of the centre (see illustration). The top of the jabot was 
 prepared for the smocking stitches by using the sewing-machine, eight stitches to the inch. 
 Six rows were stitched. The lirst row is worked in single outline. The second row is in 
 single Vandyke; the third row single outline: the fourth row single outline: dots are worked between the third 
 and fourth rows, as shown. The fifth row is in single outline — and single Vandyke stitch is worked between 
 the fourth and the lifth rows. The sixth row is one-half diamond (see Fig, 15, page 7), and the point in 
 diamond or Vandyke stitch, as preferred. The seventh row is one-half diamond, making a full diamond. 
 Four full diamonds are worked across the line. The point consists of diamonds, one-half diamond dropped 
 on either side until the point is reached. 
 
 Figure 28. — Here we have a very important illustration, showing the Vandyke stitch in connection with 
 the featlicred diamond. Twenty-seven rows were prepared, using the sewing-machine fur marking the lines 
 and spaces. Six stitches to the inch gave the size of the plait. The work being prepared, on the tirst gathering 
 thread work single outline ; on the second and third gathering threads single Vandyke : third and fourth single 
 Vandyke: the fifth row single outline. Tlie fifth row shows outline again. The sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth, 
 and tenth rows show feathered diamond to goc)d advantage (see Fig. l()l. The eleventh line is single outline, 
 and now we have our point in double Vandyke, worked once across the line in full \'andyke and then divideil 
 
 16 
 
urved Lines 
 
 »F Smocking Done on 
 R Row Havi.nc DoillLE 
 ; OF THE Inner Row 
 Se 18 
 
 into points, as 
 shown, of fonr- 
 tfcn full Van- 
 dyke stitches. 
 
 Any number 
 of stitches can 
 lie used that 
 are liked. This 
 stitch covers 
 the work with 
 a lacelike ef- 
 fect, and must 
 not be worked 
 too tightly. The 
 stitch is not as 
 elastic as others ; 
 but it is of great 
 beauty, the rich- 
 est point in smock- 
 ing. Its slow exe- 
 c u t i o n deters 
 workers from using 
 it generally, yet the 
 finest quality of work 
 frequently shows this 
 beautiful point. 
 
 Honeycomb Smocking. 
 
 — Tins is undoubtedly the 
 
 first form of the smocking 
 
 stitch, and is the stitch most 
 
 frequently seen on women's 
 
 dresses and coats, and to a 
 
 considerable extent on children's 
 
 garments. For a very handsome 
 
 illustration, see Fig. 31. 
 
 There are several different methods 
 
 of preparing material for honeycomb 
 
 smocking, and all ways lead to the same 
 
 result. 
 
 Material marked with dots, as I'ig. 7, may be 
 
 shirred or not, as preferred, for it is perfectly 
 
 feasible to work the stitch on the dots without 
 
 shirring. 
 
 Begin work on second row of dots at upper right- 
 
 \ hand side. Fasten thread securely so that it will not pull 
 
 ■w' through. Rring needle up through second dot, take first and 
 
 ^ second dots together, then over once again in lirst dot, pass needle 
 
 up back of material to first row and take second and thinl dots together 
 
 in same way. Down again to second row and take third and fourth dots 
 
 together. Then to first and take fourth and fifth dots. In other words, the dot 
 
 vertically parallel to the one last worked becomes the first in the succeeding stitch. A 
 
 point begins with any number divisible by two or four and ends with two dots (see Fig. 7). 
 
 Figure 29. — This illustration shows a method of preparing material for ihe honeycomb stitch, which is at 
 every woman's command — hand-run tucks run or basted into place. The tucks are measured as when doing any 
 hand-tucking, the space between the tucks determining the size or width of the diamond. Use a card to measure 
 for the length, which should be about the same as the width from point to point. 
 
 Honeycomb smocking done on tucked material is worked from the Ujt side from top to bottom. Take first 
 and second tucks together, over again, bring needle down inside second tuck to one-half the depth of the diamond, 
 take second and third tucks together and one stitch over. Come down full length of diamond, take first and 
 second tucks of diamond, take first and second tucks together as before, then second and third tucks again and 
 repeat the length desired. One row of work gives two rows of dots. 2d ro7c — Take third and fourth tucks 
 together, once over, come down one-half width of diamond and take fourth and fifth tucks together, and continue 
 length desired. .?</ roti' — Take fifth and sixth tucks together, one-half diamond down take sixth and seventh 
 tucks together, then fifth and sixth, and so on. The diamond should be oblong in shape when finished, although 
 the material for each diamond is square. 
 
 17 
 
r'**'*^ N»^.' '?<•«.«'<*.••', 
 
 ,-V^'V 
 
 
 
 Figure 30 gives 
 still another varia- 
 tir>n for preparing 
 the I'.oneycomb 
 smockini?. In this 
 case the tucks were 
 stitclied on the 
 sewing - machine, 
 using the tucker 
 i'>r the purpose. 
 Ibis is recom- 
 mended when an 
 amount of smock- 
 ing is to be made, 
 as it is absolutely 
 
 which sliiiw the embnjidered scallops matching the 
 embroidery on the collars. Feather-stitching at the 
 Iienis still further decorates this desirable coat for baby. 
 
 Figure 33. — To smock on any line except a perfectly 
 straight one has not heretofore been accomplished; 
 with the one exception of the Bishop model ; and in 
 that solitary case it has not been entirely successful. 
 In this illustration is shown what can be accomplished 
 on the curve when using the machine-stitched lines. 
 You cannot possibly smock on a curve when using 
 any other method. Heretofore patterns have con- 
 formed to their intended decoration when smocking 
 was to be used, and the result has been a noticeable 
 uniformity of outline in garments showing this em- 
 
 Fic, ,^4. 
 
 Stitchus 
 
 Used on 
 
 Slef.vf, of 
 
 Fig. 35 
 
 right and 
 works 
 q u i c k 1 \- . 
 Here again 
 one iises the 
 card to 
 measure the 
 depth of the 
 d i a lu ond. 
 Use tucker 
 as for all 
 tucking, 
 one - eighth- 
 inch t u c k, 
 one - eighlli- 
 i n c h space, 
 and so on. 
 
 Figure 31. 
 
 — . Here we 
 show a prac 
 tical applica- 
 tion of hon- 
 e y c o m 1> 
 s m o c king. 
 The w o r k 
 was done in 
 this case on 
 stitched 
 lines. The 
 points were 
 stitched to 
 the depth 
 desired, and 
 the smocking 
 
 ,VT. ' 11 111' - 
 
 t URVEIl Ll.M 
 
 i' 
 
 ■S-. SlloUIXI. Sm 
 
 34 and 30, and page 
 
 I xc. 
 
 "J 
 
 quickly done with great precision. 
 
 Figure 32 shows honeycomb smocking enlarged. The 
 coat has a yoke, to wliich the smocking is joined, and 
 the yoke is covered by the deep collar. The smocking 
 is done on the back as on the front, and the upper 
 collar is in two pieces, back and front alike. 
 
 The sleeves are smocked above the turn-up cuffs. 
 
 bellishmcnt. a n d 
 but little progress 
 has been made 
 With the adveni 
 of embroidered 
 smocking, using 
 the stitched lines, 
 these conditions 
 
 
 ,i?> 
 
 ■^." 
 
 ^< 
 
 X' "V 
 
 y 
 
 iV. 
 
 "V 
 
 Fig. 36. 
 
 I'lii- 35 
 
 18 
 
 I 
 
have been altered, and Siiiocking 
 has gained tremendously in pupii- 
 larity ; as in using this method 
 one can do smocking wherever 
 one can stitch a hne. 
 
 In preparing the material for 
 the illustration, a perfect circle of 
 ten inches in diameter was 
 stitched on white sateen, using the 
 sewing-machine for' lines and 
 spaces. Twelve rows were stitched, 
 the circle widening to twenty 
 inches, each successive row, of 
 necessity, having many additional 
 stitches and plaits, the last row 
 doubling the first row. The points 
 after the tirst two rows of dia- 
 monds were free-hand work or 
 folds held in position from pre- 
 vious stitches. In smocking onr 
 is not likely to meet such a neces- 
 sity as this : but the illustration 
 is most useful as an example, ami 
 can be imitated in a moditied form 
 in many instances. The break in 
 the stitches caused by the increas- 
 ing number of plaits is handled, 
 using outline stitch to divide 
 the rows, thus permitting the use 
 of the increased number of plaits. 
 This is a piece of work much ad- 
 mired. It is unusual and a bit 
 difficult. It is necessary in dnin;,' 
 work like this that the material 
 
 . .57- AnoI III l< r.l-lhil' I IKI --, M Ml 
 
 Dimity .\.\i> S.vincKtu in Sh.\ui;s 
 See Fig. 38 and page 20 
 
 ( 1 1 1 ■ K 
 
 Pink. 
 
 Fig. 38. Det.ml of S.mocking o.\ Child's Dress, 
 Fig. 37 
 
 be well covered by the stitches, as unavoidably the folds 
 or plaits are irregular. The stitches used are single out- 
 line on the lirst line, double cable on the second line, 
 one-half diamond on the third line, and double cable on 
 the fourth line. Following this are four lines of wave, 
 using three stitches up and three stitches down for the 
 wave. .After these one row of full diamond, and then 
 points made in diamond stitch. It will be noticed that 
 the points vary in size ; two points on either side begin 
 with seven diamonds each, and two points in the centre 
 of the work begin with ten diamonds each. The color 
 used for working was navy blue, but shading would im- 
 prove this or a similar pattern very much. 
 
 Figure 35. Child's Bishop Dress. — This practical 
 and attractive little frock shows the Bishop or peasant 
 model familiar to every mother. It is similar to our 
 previous illustration in outline ; and again the neck 
 curve is pronounced and we apply the same princi- 
 ple in preparing the work, viz. : the stitched lines and 
 spaces being used to fine advantage. The smocking 
 
 19 
 
\va\c ill three slitclios. Ihe edges 
 of tile ccillar ami cuffs show the 
 doiililc ovtr-anil-over stitch (Kig. 
 24, page II), and are further or- 
 namented with little embroidered 
 spiders ( Kig. 51, page 26). This 
 frock was also made worked in 
 shades of red, and was more 
 elaborate in appearance, owing to 
 the shading. One makes a great 
 mistake when one economizes on 
 materials, as ordinary material 
 ,i;ieatly detracts from tlie best 
 work, rendering it undesiralile. It 
 is better to err on the side of ex- 
 travagance in material. The hand- 
 made cord and tassels which 
 lace together the collar points give 
 a touch of distinction. 
 
 Figure 37. Child's Dress. — 
 
 Here we have the Hishop model 
 again in a different material and 
 treatment. This little frock is in 
 fciur-vear-old size, and is very 
 dainty. The material is cross-bar 
 dimity, very fine, and the smocking 
 is dune in shades of rose-color. 
 
 Fig. 39. English Smuck Model ihr LSov. See Figs. 40 and 41 and page 21 
 
 work 
 
 Fig. 
 
 sists 
 
 rows 
 
 cable. 
 
 Fig. 40. Detail of Smocking on 
 B.^cK OF Fig. 39 
 
 on yoke, 
 36, con- 
 of three 
 of single 
 one row 
 of wave in 
 three stitches, 
 one full dia- 
 mond in three 
 stitches, one 
 row of wave in 
 three stitches, 
 three rows of 
 single cable, 
 three rows of 
 wave as above. 
 The smocking 
 on the sleeve. 
 Fig. 34, shows 
 two rows single 
 cable, one row 
 full diamond, 
 two rows sin- 
 gle cable, and 
 three rows of 
 
 This little frock has a 
 Dutch neck and elbow 
 sleeves ; a four-inch 
 hem, and a bit of rib- 
 bon-run lace beading 
 at neck and sleeves 
 completes the detail. 
 Two yards of dimity 
 and four skeins of cot- 
 ton were the inaterials 
 required for this little 
 frock. 
 
 The illustration 
 shows clearly the detai 
 of the work on Fig. 
 37. The neck curves, 
 and was therefore 
 stitched for lines and 
 spaces. Twelve lines 
 were required, as the 
 points were made free- 
 hand. The first row 
 was single cable ; the 
 second row, one- 
 half diamond; the 
 
 •"11;. 41. Df.t.ml of Smocki.ng 
 o.\ Front of Fig. 39 
 
 20 
 
 % 
 
F'lo. 42. Blouse uf Fink Ciikckkd I-'rexch Dimitv Smik-ki:i) and Embroidekko in Shames ok Blue. 
 
 detail, Fig. 43. and page Ji 
 
 bee 
 
 \ 
 
 third TOW, single caMe : the fourth row. dots ; the 
 fifth row, single cable; the sixth, seventh, and 
 eighth rows wave in three stitches ; the ninth row. 
 single outline : tenth and eleventh rows, double 
 Vandyke: twelfth row. single outline; thirteenth row. 
 full diamond. The points in front began with six 
 diamonds. The points on the sides began with five 
 diamonds. For points in diamond stitch see Fig. 18, 
 page 9. 
 
 Figure 39. English Smock. — In this play frock 
 for a boy we show an Miin1ish smock model. Every 
 small boy would be well garlied in such a play gar- 
 ment as this comfortable and indestructible smock. 
 The material was a stout Scotch madras, golden 
 brown in color, with smocking of a different color; 
 blue in this case. This garment, well buttoned up in 
 front, the turn-over collar and cuffless sleeves with a 
 bit of stitchery at the wrist, is as simple as one could 
 possibly imagine. It is moderate in price, and looks 
 
 quite distinctive in the right place. The back of the 
 garment shows smocking in the centre to match the 
 smocking on the fronts. (See Fig. -.j.) 
 
 Figures 40 and 41. — Figure 40 shows the detail of 
 smock in the back. Figure 41 gives detail of the 
 smocking on the fronts. The first row is diamond; 
 second row, single cable; third row, diamond; fourth 
 and fifth rows, single cable; sixth row, diamond; and 
 the seventh row, wave in four stitches, worked so as 
 to meet the row of diamond. The dotted transfer 
 was used to mark up this piece of work and lines 
 were wide apart a^ seen. 
 
 Figure 42. Ladies' Blouse of Checked Dimity. 
 — Here we show a beautiful piece of work and a 
 charming and useful garment. The -material used was 
 French dimity in a fine check, and the smocking 
 threads were shaded from navy to very light, in five 
 shades of blue, six-stranded cotton, two strands being 
 
 21 
 
used for the smockiiiR. The sleeves are elhow length, 
 as shown, with smocking above a wide turned-up 
 cuff. These cuffs and the collar have rolled hems, 
 and then plain linen bands are added. Fagoting joins 
 this linen edge or hem to the collar and cuffs. (See 
 Fig. 21 page lo, for detail of this work.) The 
 
 embroidered 
 
 
 ,ii.>\f(lu\((iv,>l}lj,,,ViVy,>* 
 
 \\ssuimJ)^ 
 
 Fig. 
 
 43. Uetaii. of Smockinc 
 Blouse, Fig. 42 
 
 sprays, etc., are 
 in outline stitch 
 and bullion 
 stitch. The 
 curves are 
 shaped, using a 
 spool and pen- 
 cil. The simu- 
 lated buttons 
 are made in a 
 spider-web ef- 
 fect. (See Fig. 
 51, page 26, for 
 detail.) 
 
 The prepara- 
 tion for these 
 smocking stitch- 
 es was done 
 by taking u p 
 checks one- 
 eighth of an 
 inch apart and 
 fifteen rows of 
 shirs were re- 
 quired, as the 
 entire shaded 
 band at the 
 finish in o n e- 
 h a I f diamond 
 stitch is done 
 free-hand without shirring; the folds simply held 
 in place. When one has progressed as far as 
 this waist, this free-hand work is natural, or ought 
 to be. However, this very waist was the garment 
 a pupil took as a first lesson ; and this pupil 
 excelled her teacher, too. The detail on page 22, 
 Fig. 4.^, shows the work fully and gives an idea of 
 the shading. F'urther explanation is entirely super- 
 fluous. 
 
 Figure 45. — This very pretty and stylish waist 
 was designed and worked by a pupil as her first ef- 
 fort in smocking. The material was cliecked dimity, 
 and the work was done using dark blue round 
 thread cotton No. 20. The high collar is worn with 
 a stock and turn-over of embroidery. The sleeves end 
 in straight cuffs or bands with some bullion-stitch 
 on them. The distinctive features of this waist are 
 two : The white smocking at the neck above the blue 
 smocking, and the tucks below the smocking. These 
 tucks are edged with double over-and-over stitch 
 and dotted with bullion stitches. The sleeves also 
 show original treatment, .^bove the smocked band 
 that is seen above the elbow are tucks again ; thus 
 undesiral)le fullness is eliminated. .Attention to de- 
 tail, combined with an artistic sense, made of a very 
 inexpensive garment a thing of beauty. This waist 
 opens under the side plait in front. The back is 
 tucked and no color or smocking is used. The detail 
 of work on the blouse is shown on page 22, Fig. 44. 
 
 The material, checked dimity, was smocked to the 
 desired depth, as shown in w-hite work above the 
 blue band. The blue band, as shown by I'ig. 44. was 
 worked, the first row in single outline ; the fourth 
 and fifth rows in double vandyke; then single out- 
 line, and double cable and single outline followed 
 with three rows of wave. Above this band the ma- 
 terial is held in place, as shown, by rows in single 
 cable stitch, worked with fine white cotton. This is 
 a good idea and disposes of undesirable fullness in a 
 novel manner. The fidlness below the blue band is 
 held by tucks that are ornamented and held in posi- 
 tion by bullion stitch, which is another good idea. 
 No sewing is done otherwise; in other words, the 
 tucks are not held by a running stitch, as is usually 
 the case. 
 
 Figure 46. Child's Princess Panel Frock. — This 
 unusual model is made still more attractive by the use 
 of smocking stitches in shaded effect. Blue was the 
 color chosen for ornamenting this little frock for a 
 girl of six years. The material was English checked 
 dimity; turn-over collar, topped by a band of Irish 
 crochet, riblion run, holding in place the low Dutch 
 neck. Embroidered scallops and bullion-stitched dots 
 decorate the collar and cuffs, and the panel front also 
 shows sprays of embroidery done in bullion stitch in 
 shades of blue. The sleeves are finished with turn- 
 over cuff's and some smocking is above the cuffs. The 
 panel is finislied with fagoting worked in two shades 
 of blue between two rows of outline stitch; this fagot- 
 ing extends around the waist of the dress to the back. 
 
 Di' 
 
 
 
 h'u:. 44. Detail of Waist, Img. 45 
 
 22 
 
Figure 47 shows the detail of the smocking stitches 
 on Child's Frock, Fig-. 46. The elalwrate effect is se- 
 cured by the shading and the work being fine. How- 
 ever, it is extremely simple, as only three or four 
 different stitches are used, viz. : the first line is in 
 single outline; the second line in double cable; the 
 third line, single outline; the fourth, fifth, and sixth 
 lines are used for the double Vandyke; and the 
 seventh line shows single outline again. From the 
 eighth line is worked twelve rows of wave, using 
 three stitches rather close together and shaded from 
 dark to light. (See the illustration.) These lines of 
 
 ig. 44 and jiaye JJ 
 
 wave are worked without preparation, work simply 
 being held in place. 
 
 Figure 48. Child's Frock.— This little frock 
 shows pink shades in the smocking stitches and bul- 
 lion embroidery is used to further decorate the gar- 
 ment. This embroidery lends itself especially well 
 where smocking is done. Cross stitch also is very ap- 
 propriate and much used in little floral designs. 
 Pretty linen dresses and play frocks are shown in 
 colors, embroidered with birds and animals in lovely 
 colors on the collar and cuffs. These are verv un- 
 
 23 
 
usual, and liigli class when tlie embroidery is done 
 in cross stitch or Kensington stitch. Our little 
 frock has thrce-and-one-lialf-inch tucks worked in 
 
 of stitches and the quality of the work, as well 
 as coloring combined to make this a very pretty 
 frock, and well wurtli the task nf making. 
 
 Fig. 46. Child' 
 
 Princess Pankl 
 
 Fkuck or 
 
 DlMITV 
 
 outline stitch in shades as 
 shown. The material is fine 
 handkerchief linen. Two and 
 one-half yards are required. 
 The sleeves show tucking and it 
 serves to subdue the fullness, as 
 well as adding to the appearance. 
 A four-inch hem, a bit of ribbon 
 and one yard of X'alencicnnes 
 lace, and some Irish inser- 
 tion linish the frock. (Sec 
 Fig. 49.) 
 
 Figure 49 gives the detail of 
 the work on Fig. 48. The 
 stitched method was used for 
 preparing for the work, ten rows 
 being required. As the points 
 were free-hand, the arrangement 
 
 ^»^>JH>ij w y V M ^ V V V «<f (f*^ 
 
 
 ;i<;^^*;<«^^^^■ 
 
 
 Flo. 47. Uktaii. of Fic. 4D 
 24 
 
 SmoCKI;!! A.Nl) Em- 
 BROIDKREI) IN SHADES 
 
 OF Blue. See 
 page 22 
 
 Figure 50. Garden Smock.— 
 Leaving frocks for a time, we 
 show in this illustration one of 
 the garden smocks so much in 
 favor. The usefulness and com- 
 fort embodied in this model are 
 well known, and from a modest 
 beginning these smocks have 
 grown in favor until now some 
 of them are sumptuous affairs. 
 When such materials as Italian 
 silks and pussy willow silks, also 
 cripe de Chine are employed, 
 these smocks are delightful. 
 .\mong materials a silk and cot- 
 ton, and silk and wool crepe, are 
 favorites and also moderate in 
 price. Take one of these 
 crepes in white, smock it in 
 a favorite color, put on a 
 
striped collar and cuffs in silk 
 to match the smocking 
 stitches and a plain white 
 sash, one has a most distinc- 
 tive garment ; and it launders, 
 too. A white Italian silk had 
 pale lemon smocking, with 
 just a touch of green and 
 black stitchery. A collar and 
 cufifs showed stitches fn these 
 colors. The sash of the Ital- 
 ian silk, with the ends cross- 
 stitched a bit in the same 
 colors was charming. 
 
 The model shown was de- 
 veloped in coral pink crc-pe : 
 the collar, cutTs. and belt were 
 in white crepe ; all the stitch- 
 es were worked in colors, 
 shades of pink, some black 
 and white. The garment was 
 laced in front in true smock 
 fashion. White crepe buttons 
 over ivory molds were 
 worked in spider effect in 
 shades of pink. (See Fig. 
 51.) Figure 52 gives the de- 
 tail of the stitches used 
 on the belt, collar and cuffs, 
 consisting of an outline in 
 
 l"io. 48. .\,mjthek Mooti. Kok .\ Chii.ii's FkiK k. See detail, Fig. 49, and 
 
 page 2.5 
 
 Fig. 49. Detail of Fig. 
 
 1) 1 a c k and 
 bu ttonhole- 
 stitches in 
 two shades of 
 pink on either 
 side. The 
 work is all 
 easy to do 
 and fascinat- 
 ing to a de- 
 gree. 
 
 This gar- 
 ment has a 
 yoke to which 
 t h e Smocked 
 fronts are at- 
 tached. The 
 back is in one 
 piece with 
 smocking 
 
 midway between the shoulders to match that on the 
 fronts. The illustration shows an effective combina- 
 tion of the different colors. 
 
 We read of smocks and smocking in Queen .June's 
 time and earlier, and a description of garments 
 smocked in golden threads and in silver on silk and 
 satin has an attractive sound. With each revival of 
 a mode progress is made, and in embroidered smock- 
 ing this era has made an important advance. Be- 
 sides, embroidered smocking is purely .\merican, and 
 now one can smock anything and in any grade, as 
 fine as possible or the reverse. 
 
 Figure 53. Sports Smock. — This sports smock 
 was developed in blue crepe cloth with crepe for col- 
 lar, cuffs, and belt. A row of outlining in heavy silk 
 and double over-and^over stitch is the decoration on 
 the collar, cuffs, and belt. Buttons with embroidery 
 are seen tm the fronts and on the belt. The 
 
 25 
 
Fir.. 50. 
 
 Spokts Smock of Coral Pink Emukuiukkko in Siiai>i;s of Pink 
 Black, and White. See page 24 
 
 .smocking is done in wliite, (See Fig. 54.) 
 
 Figure 54. — This illustration shows the detail of 
 the smocking stitches used on Fig. 53. Twenty-one 
 rows were stitched on the sewing-machine for lines 
 and spaces. Seven stitclies to the inch were used. 
 After the usual preparation, smocking stitches 
 were worked as follows ; First row, single outline : 
 second row, two douhle cahle and one full diamond 
 across the line; third row, single outline. Three rows 
 of wave, using three stitches up and three stitches 
 down follow, and then on the eighth line we work 
 cable stitch across five times, forming the band. A 
 band in feathered diamond, of six rows or five full 
 diamonds, comes next, followed by a band of cable, 
 as in the beginning of the pattern ; single outline. 
 double cable and diamond and single outline finish 
 the design. 
 
 Figure 55. — • This detail shows the combina- 
 
 tion of simple stitches used 
 on the Child's Parly Frock, 
 Fig. 56. The upper part of the de- 
 sign is worked around the skirt. 
 The lower part of the design is on 
 the top and bottom of the waist 
 front. The work on the sleeves 
 is the same as on the skirt. Eight 
 lines were stitched for the skirt. 
 On the first line was worked dou- 
 ble cable ; on the second, third, and 
 fourth lines is worked the wave, 
 using four stitches up and four 
 down: the fifth line, double cable. 
 The point is worked in diamond, 
 two stitches up and two stitches 
 down, worked across the line, 
 then divided into uneven num- 
 bers. Make the points in even 
 numbers, leaving one diamond be- 
 tween each point. The smock- 
 ing on the waist consists of — 
 first line, double cable; second 
 line, dots; third, double cable; 
 work fourth, fifth, and sixth lines 
 wave in four stitches w'ithout 
 preparation. Figure 55 shows 
 t h e smocking 
 stitches in de- 
 tail. This is ex- 
 tremely simple 
 work, and the 
 I oloring, shades 
 of rose, is very 
 ■4ood. The 
 ilimity also is 
 of the best, and 
 the lace at the 
 neck and 
 sleeves gives an 
 additional fin- 
 ish to a very 
 pretty frock for 
 a four - year - 
 old. The sim- 
 ulated buttons 
 are in the now 
 familiar spid- 
 er's web. Indeed they are used on sleeves, at neck 
 and in the back, for this frock is the same in work 
 
 back and front. The 
 sleeves are laid in 
 tucks, doing away 
 with unnecessary 
 fullness. Cords 
 and tassels are of 
 tlie same cotton as 
 used for the smock- 
 ing stitches. This 
 model has been 
 much admired, and 
 looks very simple 
 when worn, It is a 
 pretty party or (lanc- 
 ing school frock 
 for a small maiden. 
 The frontispiece 
 
 Fk;. 52. Detail 
 
 OF Stitch Used 
 
 in Fig. 39- 
 
 See page 25 
 
 Fig. 51. 
 
 Button Wokkku in 
 Spider Web 
 
 26 
 
Fici. 53. Sports Smuck oi- Blul Cklpl vvirii Wiiiii-. Cullak. CutFa, and Belt. See detail, I'ig. 54, and page ^5 
 
 shows another pretty adaptation of this simple smock- 
 ing design on a child's party frock. 
 
 Three sliades of a color are recommended for this 
 pattern, either rose or blue, as preferred, and two or 
 three threads of stranded cotton are best adapted for 
 working. Use the darker shade for the lines of wave- 
 
 stitch, the next shade for the double cable stitch on 
 either side and. commencing with the darkest, use all 
 three shades for the points in diamond stitch, ending 
 witli the lightest shade at tlie tips. The clusters of 
 bullion stitch which finish the tips of the diamond- 
 stitch points should be in the darkest shade. 
 
 27 
 

 Fig. 54. Detail of Smocking, Fig. 53 
 
 Mention has been made of tlie simulated buttons in 
 spider-web stitch. The bars are worked directly into 
 the material, and the spider-web then woven on the 
 bars is illustrated on page 26, Fig. 51. Use the darkest 
 shade for the bars and the lightest for weaving. 
 
 This is a particularly pretty model for the small 
 child, and any simple cutting pattern may be used 
 which has set-in sleeves and an attached gathered or 
 plaited skirt, allowing for the e.xtra fullness of material 
 required for smocking, as described in the introduc- 
 tory chapters to this book. If a wide hem is allowed, 
 the skirt can be easily lengthened to accommodate the 
 growing child. 
 
 Neck and sleeve edges are finished with bands of the 
 fagoting stitch, illustrated on page 10, outlined on botIi 
 edges with a darker shade. The joinirg of waist and 
 
 skirt and the under-arm seams are covered with the 
 same fancy stitch. 
 
 Figure 56. Child's Party Dress. — (See Fig. 55.) 
 Tlic material selected for this little frock was fine- 
 (luality English dimity, with a stripe of three cords, 
 the plain space being equal in width to the corded lines. 
 There are si.x corded lines to the inch, and these cords 
 or corded lines were used in shirring for the smocking, 
 taking each line for one stitch and omitting the plain 
 spaces. To secure straight and even spaces for these 
 shirring lines ihe sewing-machine was used — an ap- 
 plication of the stitched method mentioned many times 
 in the descriptions of work in this book. .'Ml that this 
 or similar cases demand is straight lines to guide the 
 shirring. .\ long loose stitch can be used on the 
 nmchino. 
 
 •:^'-*^a».>:^>^>j^cx>e 
 
 >*r 
 
 i-*::-.*.**.^ 
 
 \XX* Vj(V> 
 
 
 w 
 
 ¥ 
 
 4 
 
 ^wZ^^OiSQi 
 
 
 !pV V v^ V V ^ V 
 
 FiG. 55. Detail of Stitches. Double Cable, Wave, 
 \Nn Diamond as used on Fig. 56. See page 29 
 
 Figure 57. — In this illustration we have a new 
 feature; indeed, two new features, — the double dia- 
 mond wave and buttonhole stitch. The piece is worked 
 on madras and stitched lines and spaces were used for 
 preparation. Si.xteen lines were stitched, using seven 
 stitches to the inch. Work was drawn up, pulled into 
 place, and smocking commenced on the first line in 
 single outline; on the second line, single buttonhole 
 
 28 
 
stitch ; on the third line, single cable stitch ; on the 
 fourth line, diamond stitch, using two stitches down 
 to the tiflh line and up to the fourth line, down to 
 the tilth line and so on across the work. On the sixth 
 line diamond stitch is worked up to the fifth line, 
 down to the sixth line, up to the fifth line, forming 
 a full diamond. Three more rows of diamond stitch 
 are worked in the same manner, forming a band 
 in diamond. On the ninth line is worked a row of 
 single cable. The double diamond wave consists of 
 
 manner, keeping the points directly in line with those 
 of the small diamond wave and meeting it at every 
 other point. This gives one-half of a double dia- 
 mond pattern. The second half of the double dia- 
 mond is worked the same as the first half, ex- 
 cept that it is reversed. The buttonhole stitch on 
 the second line is the same as used in embroidery. 
 
 Figure 58. — A honeycomb diamond used in connec- 
 tion with a band or otlicr stitchery is somewhat out of 
 
 Fic. 56. Chilu's P.\kty Dress of Stkipeu Dimity Smockeu i.s Sh.mjes or Ko^t. See l"ig. 55 and page 28 
 
 one row of diamond wave outlined top and bottom 
 by a row of stitches twice the numlier used for the 
 small diamond, joining the small diamond on every 
 second point as shown. It is best to work the small 
 diamond first, leaving spaces above and below for 
 the large diamond, or upper and lower lines shown. 
 Note the illustration carefully. Work from the thir- 
 teenth line to the twelfth, using three stitches, down 
 to the thirteenth, and so on across. For the outer row 
 of wave commence on the twelfth line and work to the 
 second line above (tenth) and down again in same 
 
 the ordinary in appearance. It looks attractive, and is 
 desirable where a small or fine honeycomb pattern can 
 i)e used. Such a pattern furnishes the often-needed 
 finish for a piece of work in honeycomb stitch. This 
 illustration was prepared, using the sewing-machine 
 for lines and spaces, and the stitch was worked from 
 right to left. 
 
 Now, honeycomb stitch can be worked in several 
 ways. It is the only smocking stitch so adaptable. 
 The various illustrations in this book fully illustrate 
 this principle. (See Figs. 29 and 30 on page 14, Fig. 32 
 
 29 
 
on page 15, where the work was prepared and worked, 
 using the tucked method — tliesc examples being 
 worked from left to right.) When using the dot or 
 transfer method, the work can be done working from 
 
 •iG. 57. A (iiKii) Smockin'g Pattern, Showing Two 
 
 New Features, Double Diamond Wave and 
 
 Buttonhole Stitch. See page 28 
 
 either left or right, but the diamond is best secured 
 with tw-o stitches over, worked from right to left, as 
 in the case of the dot used liy embroiderers. Circum- 
 stances govern the method used for working the 
 honeycomb stitch. The material may be gathered, and 
 the stitch taken on the folds, or the stitch worked on 
 the dots without the preliminary gathering. 
 
 In working from left to right, using the dot 1 r 
 transfer metliod. the progress is slow, and the work 
 is not well secured, although leaving a cleaner piece of 
 work on the wrong side. However, the right side of 
 smocking is the side that interests most workers. 
 
 The band commencing this design has been described 
 several times, and we refer to page 8, Fig. 17. Tt 
 consists of one row in outline, one row in double cable 
 and single diamond in combination ; then outline 
 again. Fourteen rcnvs in all were stitched and shirred 
 in the usual manner for this design. Using this 
 method, the needle carrying the shirring-thread is put 
 into the holes made by the machine-needle. In the 
 succeeding rows the folds or plaits so secured are 
 exactly followed, tlie lines marked by the sewing- 
 machine being the width of the presser-foot apart. 
 
 Begin the honeycomb band on the fourth row at the 
 right end of the work. Secure the thread on the first 
 plait on the wrong side, bringing the needle up to the 
 right side through the second plait. Take the first and 
 second plaits together with two stitches over, as when 
 
 working an embroidered dot. Then from the wrong 
 side come down to the second line; bring your needle 
 through the third plait. Take tlie third and second 
 plaits together twice as before. Then from the wrong 
 side again pass up to the tirst line. Take the fourth 
 and third plaits together twice and proceed across the 
 line. The second row is worked from the third line 
 to the second line, forming a diamond. Do not draw 
 your thread too tight in passing from stitch to stitch, 
 as it detracts from the elasticity of the work. 
 
 Figure 59. Apron. — An apron smocked is not so 
 new as pretty, and this one is of unusual excellence, 
 as it is provided with three capacious pockets. This 
 apron is obviously intended for a sewing-apron. 
 The material required is one and one-half yards, one 
 yard wide. Dimity was used in this case. The strings 
 and added hems were cut crosswise on the goods. 
 Usually this is not a, good plan to follow, but in this 
 case it was done. The pockets are simply turned up 
 and feather-stitched to make the divisions. Feather- 
 stitching is used on all edges, to hold the hems, etc., 
 in place. The sprays arc in outline and in bullion 
 stitch, l-'ig. 23. The smocking was done on lines secured 
 by taking up the checks every other one. Eight rows 
 were used. The points were done freehand. The 
 siuocking pattern is clearly shown in Fig. 58. The 
 apron shows a small bib decorated in keeiiing with the 
 balance of the apron. Straps or brelelles can be used 
 in place of the bib, if desired, and similarly decorated. 
 
 Tlie apron shown is extremely attractive when taffeta 
 silk is the material selecteil, and, of course, silks used 
 for the smocking stitches. Rose-colored stranded cot- 
 tons were used in the case of the apron shown, and 
 two threads at one time, -^ny smocking pattern pre- 
 
 FlG. 58. HoNKVniMl! SmoCKINC. IN' OlMlllN'ATlON \M T II 
 
 SiMPLF. Stitchks. See page -'8 
 
 ferred can be used, and many forms of embroidery 
 stitches also are properly used. 
 
 Figure 60. — The first row is single outline; second 
 row, single outline; third row, single outline; one-half 
 diamond is worked between the first and second and 
 
 30 
 
second and third lines. The curved wave, 
 worked in outline stitch ( Fig. 19, page 9). 
 occupies a space of live lines ; working four 
 stitches up with the thread below the nee- 
 dle, three stitches across the line, thread 
 helow the needle : four stitches down, with 
 the thread above the needle, and three 
 stitches on the line with the thread above 
 the needle ; then four stitches up to the 
 fourth line and three stitches across the 
 line as before. Xc.xt row is worked in the 
 same manner from the line below, and dots 
 are placed in the centre, working from the 
 ripht hand. The sixth and seventh lines 
 are single outline with one-half diamond 
 worked in the space between the two lines. 
 One row of full diamond is worked below 
 this, as the preparation for the point. These 
 diamoiuls are (livi<lcd into unequal num- 
 bers ; for instance, they are divided into five 
 diamon<ls, and the point is commenced four 
 diamonds, as the space of one diamond is 
 always left between the points after the 
 first row is worked. ( See illustration.) .\ny 
 number of diamonds can begin a point, 
 that can be suitably spaced. 
 
 In working the points on this apron, it is 
 a good plan to work from each end, puttiui; 
 any uneven spaces in the centre point, 
 which may contain one or two diamonds 
 more than the others. Count off your dia- 
 monds and spaces in the first row, and be 
 governed by what you have. There is U" 
 arbitrary law about these things. The 
 worker can use her judgment in the matter, 
 making the points large or small. 
 
 Frontispiece (page j). — This illustra- 
 tion shows how charming the little smocked 
 
 i:;^^::^;^;::?©^^ 
 
 Fig. 60. DiTAii. hf Vir.. 50 
 
 Fic. 59. .Apron with Po( kf.ts. See detail Fig. 60, and 
 page 30 
 
 frocks are for children. On this garment smocking 
 is used only to secure the fullness at the top of the 
 skirt and on the sleeves. The waist portion is em- 
 broidered in the same color as the smocking, and 
 Irish crochet lace is used for neck finish and bead- 
 ing at the waist line. The e<lges of sleeves and the 
 frills on the waist are finished with the reverse over- 
 and-over stitch (Fig. 24, page 11), also in color. 
 
 The smocking pattern is very similar to that 
 shown in detail by Fig. 55, page 28. 
 
 Laundering Smocking. — Use a good soap. Ivory 
 preferred. W'a-h by luind quickly, rinse thoroughly, 
 and do not starch the smocking. Let the garment 
 hang in the air long enough to partly dry; roll it in 
 a clean cloth and let it remain for about one hour; 
 then iron as usual, only do not iron your smocking. 
 Gently pull it into its original position. After all 
 this is done the smocked portions of the garment 
 can be placed right side up over a Turkish towel, 
 f(ddcd several times and lightly touched with a warm 
 iron. When the smocking is finished, it can be held 
 over an inverted iron with the wrong side of the 
 smocking to the iron, as in steaming velvet; this 
 stiffens the plaits. It is never advisable to boil or 
 scald a garment that is worked in colors. 
 
 31 
 
Pattern for the Transfer Dot Method of Marking for Shirring 
 Threads as described on Page 5 
 
 ► REPARE a working pattern by placing thin paper 
 over pattern of dots below, marking dots with 
 
 pencil, and transfer to material by means 
 
 paper placed face down between working pattern and 
 material, using a pencil or any blunt-pointed instrument. 
 The working pattern may be made any length or depth 
 
 f carbon 
 
 desired by moving the paper along, using the last row 
 of dots as a key to keep the subsequent rows even. 
 
 The points at the bottom are of use chiefly in Honey- 
 comb Smocking. (See page 17.) In making addi- 
 
 tional points, repi 
 dots in middk 
 
 at from two vertical centre lines of 
 oint as manv times as desired. 
 
 itP -229 
 
 32 
 
A Book for EVERY 
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 No. l.Thirtv-five differ- 
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 rections for working. 
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 tatting are given spe- 
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 Book. Has nearly two 
 hundred working pat- 
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 alphabets and direc- 
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