— -•- 
 
Class 
 
 Book <F<3 
 
 GopightN . 
 
 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 
 
THE 
 
 SCIENCE AND CARE OF 
 THE HAIR AND NAILS 
 
 A TREATISE UPON THE RECOGNIZED 
 MEDICAL PRINCIPLES OF THEIR 
 SCIENTIFIC CARE AND CULTIVATION 
 
 A MANUAL 
 
 OF PRACTICAL APPLICATION 
 
 BY 
 
 HOLWAY DEAN FARRAR, M. D 
 
 H 
 
 ILLUSTRATED 
 
 COLUMBUS, OHIO 
 
 THE F. J, HEER PRINTING CO. 
 
 1915 
 
*£ 
 
 COPYRIGHTED 1915 
 
 BY 
 
 HOLWAY DEAN FARRAR, M. D. 
 
 5)GI.A411354 
 
 SEP -7 1915 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 SCIENTIFIC care and cultivation of the 
 Hair and Nails is the most important 
 cosmetic problem of modern life. In 
 the past, the subject of Hair and Nail growth 
 and health was submitted solely to the pseudo- 
 scientific knowledge of the Hairdresser or 
 Manicurist; or the injudicious application of 
 proprietary hair, scalp and nail preparations 
 was resorted to, with frequently disastrous 
 results. Today it is recognized that the 
 scientific care and cultivation of beautiful 
 Hair and Nails lies entirely within the domain 
 of modern medicine. 
 
 There is no royal road to the desired end; 
 nor does success crown the particular and 
 limited methods of a favored few. To believe 
 that a healthy, lustrous crop of hair is to be 
 found in a bottle of medicine or a jar of oint- 
 ment is as inconsistent as confidence that a 
 diseased scalp may be restored to normal 
 health by the extremely dangerous practice 
 of massaging it, thereby aggravating any 
 existing unhealthy condition, and spreading 
 the disease over the entire cranium. Common 
 sense advises that the wisest treatment con- 
 
 (iii) 
 
iv Preface. 
 
 sists in taking only that which is good from 
 the different methods, and combining them 
 into a perfect whole. 
 
 This we have endeavored to do. 
 
 We believe that a few minutes of time 
 daily devoted to the systematic care of the 
 Hair and Nails, with a careful observation 
 of the laws of hygiene, and with the applica- 
 tion of proper remedial measures, will insure 
 nails that are beautiful and hair that is nat- 
 ural in color and normal in quantity until 
 practically the end of life. 
 
 H. D. F. 
 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 CHAPTER I. 
 A Review of Cosmetics 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Anatomy of the Hair and Scalp 31 
 
 The Skin — Hair Follicle — Hair Papilla — Structure of the 
 Hair — Sebaceous Glands — Sweat Glands — Blood Supply — Muscles 
 of the Hair — Types of Hair. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 Physiology of the Hair 37 
 
 Rudimentary Hair — Age of Puberty — New Hair — Length 
 of Hair Life — Rate of Growth — Chemical Composition of the 
 Hair — The Pigment — Color Determinants — Shades of Hair — 
 Diameter of Scalp Hair — Hygroscopic Properties — Elasticity and 
 Strength — Uses of Hair. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Hygiene of the Hair 42 
 
 False Hair — Sun Bleached Hair — The Hair Brush — Care 
 of the Brush — Proper Use — The Comb — Proper Use — Hair Pins 
 — Hot Curling Irons — Hair Cutting — Clipping the Hair — Singeing 
 the Hair — Shaving — The Hair Line — Dressing the Hair — Hair 
 Dressing Parlors and Barber Shops. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 The Shampoo 54 
 
 Shampoo Mixtures — Application — Frequency — Apparent 
 Loss of Hair — Chemicals in the Shampoo — Dry Shampoo — 
 Shampoo Formulae — Special Shampoo Mixtures. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Scalp Massage 64 
 
 Scientific Methods. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Hair Curling and Hair Straightening 68 
 
 Hair Curling Liquids — Kinky Hair — Methods for Straightening. 
 
 (v) 
 
vi Table of Contents. 
 
 Page 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Hygiene of the Hair and Scalp of Children 73 
 
 The Shampoo — The Brush and Comb — Hair Cutting — Eye- 
 brows and Eyelashes. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Hygiene of White Hair 78 
 
 General Suggestions — Choice of Soaps — The Shampoo— 
 — Shampoo Mixtures — Shampoo for Greasy Hair — Use of Indigo 
 — Drying the Hair — Dry Shampoo — Bleaching — Application of 
 Oil — The Brush and Comb — Hot Curling Irons — Hair Tonics. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Alopecia — Loss of Hair 84 
 
 Congenital Baldness — Treatment — Acquired Baldness — 
 Early Loss of Hair — Idiopathic Form — Treatment and Formulae 
 — Symptomatic Form — Treatment — Defluvium Capillorum — 
 Treatment — Dandruff — Seborrhcea — Treatment — Loss of Hair 
 Due to Age — Treatment — Bald Spots — Treatment. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Symptoms of Beginning Baldness 106 
 
 Methods to Detect Abnormal Loss of Hair. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Hair Tonics for General Use 108 
 
 Commercial Hair Tonics — Tonic Suggestions — Tonic For- 
 mulae of Pilocarpin, Cantharides, Quinine, Tonic Oils, Resorcin, 
 Sage, Ammonia, Mercury, Capsicum, Formicarium, Chloral 
 Hydrate, Sulphur, Tannic Acid, Arnica, Tar, Crude Petroleum, 
 Balsam Peru, etc. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Hair Oils, Brillantines, Pomades 131 
 
 Special Formulae for Hair Oils Brillantine Formulae- 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Abnormal Growth of Hair — Hairiness 139 
 
 Hair Removers — Treatment — Special Formulae. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 The Eyebrows 143 
 
 The Perfect Eyebrow — Anatomy of the Brows — Diseases — 
 Defects — Treatment — Methods of Dyeing or Staining— Formulae 
 for Harmless Stains — Eyebrow Pencils. 
 
Table of Contents. vii 
 
 Page 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 The Eyelashes . 154 
 
 Anatomy — Diseases — Defects — Rules of Hygiene — Methods 
 of Dyeing or Staining. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Mustache and Beard 160 
 
 Stick Mustache Wax — Special Formulae — Mustache Dress- 
 ing — Beard Liquid — Special Formulae. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Prevention of Gray Hair 165 
 
 Its Cause and Correction — Medicinal Preparations Used — 
 Pilocarpin — Acetic Acid— Special Formulae. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Gray Hair 170 
 
 Congenital Gray Hair — Treatment — x\cquired Gray Hair — Treatment. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Bleaching the Hair 175 
 
 Lemon Juice Hair Bleach — Peroxide of Hydrogen — Appli- 
 cation — Bleaching the Roots of the Hair. 
 
 CHAPTER XXL 
 
 Hair Dyes 179 
 
 Hair Restorers — Vegetable Restorers — Special Formulae — 
 Vegetable and Mineral Restorers — Formulae. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Lead and Sulphur Hair Restorers 190 
 
 Special Formulae. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Instantaneous Vegetable Hair Dyes 201 
 
 Henna — Henna and Reng— Method of Application — Walnut 
 Extracts — Formulae — Combined Walnut Hair Dye and Oil — 
 Formulae — Pyrogallol — Formulae — Harmless Black Dyes. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Instantaneous Mineral Hair Dyes 211 
 
 Manganese — Formulae — Iron — Formulae — Bismuth — 
 Formulae— Quicksilver Dyes— Silver Nitrate Dyes— Method of 
 Application— Special Formulae— Synthetic Hair Dyes. 
 
viii Table of Contents. 
 
 Page 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 Scientific Application of Hair Dye 225 
 
 Proper Method — Suggestions. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 The Finger and Toe Nails 229 
 
 The Finger Nails — Anatomy — Color— Shape — Shortening — 
 Trimming — Filing — Cleansing — Hang Nails — Treatment — Treat- 
 ing the Cuticle — Treatment for Dry, Brittle Nails — Bleaching 
 the Hands — Moulding — The Manicure — Instruments and Proper 
 Methods—jCosmetic Preparations-Formulae for : iNail Bleaches — 
 Polishes — Enamel— Ointments — Finger Tints. Diseases of the 
 Nails — Absence of Nail Plates — Warped Nails — Discolorations — 
 White Spots — Treatment — Softening — Treatment — Furrows — 
 Treatment — Nail Biting — Treatment — Eczema — Treatment — Dis- 
 eases of Nail Epidermis — Treatment. The Toe Nails — Ingrowing 
 — Treatment — Special Instruments. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 A REVIEW OF COSMETICS. 
 
 No age, however uncivilized or barbarous its people, 
 has ever been lacking in a true appreciation of physical 
 beauty of both sexes, this appreciation at times becoming 
 almost a religion. When Thebes' seven gates were mod- 
 ern improvements, and the pyramids yet unfinished, cos- 
 metics of a comparatively high order were practiced in 
 Egypt, and antecede those of any other people of whom 
 we have knowledge. The early Greeks had their Aphro- 
 dite, goddess of Beauty and Love, before whose altar they 
 burned incense and offered prayers and sacrifices. For 
 the sake of their remarkable beauty, the lack of morals in 
 Sappho, Phadre, Phryne and many others was forgotten 
 or condoned. Unto the Greeks, the most enlightened of 
 all ancient peoples, we go for our first great Philosophers 
 and Poets, Painters and Sculptors, our first great States- 
 men and Warriors. The early Roman history as regards 
 beauty worship is much the same as that of the Greeks. 
 It would be interesting to the student of cosmetics to know 
 how many fair women and brave men, when nature 
 failed or grew weary, came to her assistance with skilled 
 finger and quick brain. While those nations lacked the 
 benefit of the scientific knowledge in the use of cosmetics 
 that is ours, they accomplished wonders indeed, consider- 
 ing what material they had at hand and the ages in which 
 they lived, for cosmetics in their time were more primitive 
 in their composition, as can be readily understood. 
 
 In early Egyptian days, the arrangement of the hair 
 among women of all classes varied only as to the orna- 
 ments worn; those who could afford it wearing rich 
 
2 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 jewels, the less fortunate contenting themselves with sim- 
 ple garlands of flowers. The style most general was the 
 braided hair, hanging down either side of the face, with 
 jewels or flowers entwined in the plaits; or cut to hang 
 loose on the shoulders with a straight fringe across the 
 brow. They frequently washed the hair in a charcoal 
 solution which they believed made it much blacker than 
 was its wont. 
 
 Although the women were usually supplied with long, 
 lustrous and straight, but rather coarse hair, scalp physi- 
 cians, wig-makers, and hair specialists were not unknown. 
 Those who were by some unkind fate reduced to wig- 
 wearing or using false braids, first exhausted every other 
 means of promoting hair growth. Fancy sending for your 
 scalp physician and having him prescribe pulverized dog's 
 foot — (dogs were plentiful in Egypt) — and date ker- 
 nels, or ground donkey's tooth and wild bees honey, to be 
 applied next full moon! Or if not content with this, call 
 in your particular sorceress or worker of magic, and be 
 told to apply a spider's web to the crown of your head for 
 ten days; the sorceress or man of magic meantime to do 
 the rest — this of course being shrouded in deepest mys- 
 tery. All of these methods were employed. 
 
 The women were given to the use of facial cosmetics, 
 painting their lips a vivid scarlet. They were unique in 
 the use of face powders, not using, as most women would, 
 a white or tinted powder, but one composed of charcoal 
 and antimony, outlining the brow, cheeks, and chin with 
 this black composition, against which the whiteness of the 
 skin stood out in startling contrast. The eyelids were 
 painted with a black pigment, the line or band extending 
 across the temples to the roots of the hair, and the lower 
 lid being heavily outlined. The Egyptian women had 
 naturally large eyes, and one can imagine the effect of 
 
A Review of Cosmetics. 3 
 
 this cosmetic art which made the eyes the dominant 
 feature. 
 
 Both men and women used great quantities of oil on 
 the body, no bath being complete without the final rub- 
 bing in of highly scented olive oil. The men sometimes 
 used the pigment for the eyes, and were not considered 
 effeminate. They were equally faithful in the care of the 
 hair, which growing very thick, was worn short and un- 
 curled. The face was closely shaven and massaged, and 
 false beards were worn. The styles of wearing the beard 
 varied in shape between round, oblong, square or some- 
 what rectangular ; and the beard was attached to the face 
 by an adhesive gum. When the beard was full and 
 covered lower cheek and jaw, it was attached by a thread 
 or thin gold wire looped over the ears. The upper lip was 
 always clean shaven. The men at times rivalled the 
 women in their use of perfumes, pomades, and heavy 
 spicy scent. They took much care of their hands and 
 feet, usually abjuring any covering whatsoever for the 
 latter. The finger nails were worn rather pointed, and 
 stained with henna, which gave them a rich orange hue. 
 
 Among early Romans the men wore their hair short 
 — that is to the nape of the neck — and trimmed close 
 over the ears. Men of all stations wore a band of cloth 
 an inch and a half to two inches wide bound round the 
 head and tied in a double knot at the back, the ends flowing 
 free. The color of the band was usually purple, some- 
 times a bright yellow. Close cropped moustaches and 
 long beards were effected by older men ; while the younger 
 men were invariably close shaven. Among women, blonde 
 hair seemed to be the color most desired; and those not 
 so blessed by nature, painted their hair a bright and glow- 
 ing yellow, using for the purpose an ochre powder. This 
 was carefully washed out each morning, to be again ap- 
 
4 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 plied in the evening. The frequent washing and conse- 
 quent dampness of the hair caused it to fall, and many 
 Greek and Roman women had eventually little, and in 
 some instances no hair. Wigs then first came into fash- 
 ion; or for those ladies to whom some small amount of 
 the "crowning glory'' had been left, its length and thick- 
 ness was augmented by adding false braids or puffs and 
 curls. Even in that day "rats" and transformations of 
 false hair were known; and we can imagine that these 
 ladies moved with much caution, rather than suffer the 
 embarrassment of leaving these adornments scattered in 
 their wake; for the means of securing them to the head 
 was not so perfected as it is today. It is stated that as 
 many as five hundred curls might at times be counted on 
 the head of a Roman matron. These were as a rule piled 
 high and extended forward; so that viewing the lady 
 from the front she looked quite tall, whereas, from the 
 back, she was pigmy-like in comparison. 
 
 The Greek women wore the hair more close, con- 
 forming as nearly as possible to the natural shape of the 
 head. As many of them were natural blondes, bleaching 
 was not so much in evidence; but they curled and waved 
 their hair, and when completed, wore a small filet cap of 
 gold, silver, or silk mesh to add to the beauty of the ar- 
 rangement, and at the same time secure the coiffure in 
 place. The curling iron served the same purpose on the 
 toilet tables of these beauty loving women of semi-civiliza- 
 tion as on those of the more enlightened women of our 
 own day. 
 
 Both Greek and Roman women, as early as two 
 thousand five hundred B. C., used minium (a red lead 
 oxide), to paint their lips and cheeks. Large and brilliant 
 eyes seem to have been a feature of great beauty in all 
 ages, and for the purpose of enhancing their largeness 
 
A Review of Cosmetics. S 
 
 and brilliancy a black pigment was used to outline the 
 lids and lashes. 
 
 Blue veined temples were thought most beautiful by 
 Roman and Greek; and these were often faintly traced 
 with blue, a tiny silk-like feather being used to delicately 
 apply the color. 
 
 Ground and powdered rice were used freely to whiten 
 the face, neck, and arms, while complexion masks were 
 worn, composed of a dough of almond oil and rice, or 
 almond meal and olive oil. Each morning the face was 
 carefully massaged in warm olive oil. Asses' milk was a 
 luxury, and many wealthy women kept great herds of 
 asses, that they might bathe in the warm milk each morn- 
 ing. Beautiful indeed must have been the skin so care- 
 fully tended, white and firm as sculptured marble and of 
 a wonderfully velvet-like texture. 
 
 Much attention was given the nails. Manicuring in- 
 struments were few, and crude to our understanding; a 
 small, quite sharp, rather long handled knife being used 
 to cut the nail; after which it was highly polished with a 
 white, clay-like substance. The cuticle was left to grow 
 and adhere naturally to the base of the nail. It is not to 
 be thought that the men of this time neglected to take 
 advantage of these cosmetic facilities. Their hair was as 
 carefully curled, pomaded and oiled as that of the ladies, 
 and they wore chaplets of flowers or jewels wound round 
 the forehead. Baldness was less prevalent among men 
 than women, due no doubt to lives spent more in the 
 open, and the less common usage of the headdress. The 
 men had their war-bonnets and helmets it is true, but in- 
 dulged in occasional periods of peace. They were very 
 athletic, and took great care of their bodies, paying much 
 attention to their feet, and carefully trimming and polish- 
 ing the toe nails ; and they did not hesitate to use powder 
 
6 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 and rouge if the fancy so took them. Both Greeks and 
 Romans usually wore the hair long, or to the shoulders; 
 and the older men wore beards neatly trimmed in round, 
 pointed, or square form. 
 
 Among the Turkish women, false hair was used pro- 
 fusely; and as they were not generally blessed by any 
 superabundance of hair, great braids of it were attached 
 to their own. Wigs covered the entire head and hung in 
 yard long plaits over the shoulders, or down the back, or 
 were sometimes piled high on the head. Numerous orna- 
 ments were worn. Strings of beads, or coins strung into 
 chains, were bound round the forehead ; bright bits of silk 
 and ribbons were plaited into the braids ; and flowers and 
 jewels of all sorts adorned the head. They rouged the 
 face, with a much darker red for the lips; and instead of 
 painting the lids black, used a very dark green pigment, 
 which must have looked odd indeed, and very striking 
 against their rouged faces. Like the Egyptians they used 
 henna on the nails, and sometimes darkened the front 
 teeth. The men were more fortunate, possessing very 
 thick, straight black hair which they wore close cropped, 
 and very luxuriant beards and moustaches, which they 
 kept oiled in order to give it the gloss it would otherwise 
 have lacked. Turbans or long straight pieces of cloth of 
 bright color were worn bound round the head in graceful 
 folds. 
 
 The study of the toilets of Moorish women presents 
 something of a contrast as compared to the Egyptian and 
 others. ' Many historians and writers on the subject agree 
 as to the wonderful beauty of these women, not always 
 tall, not always slender, but ever light of foot and with 
 the free grace of movement and carriage of the desert 
 born. They were at their best, both men and women dur- 
 ing their occupation of Spain. They neither painted nor 
 
A Review of Cosmetics. 7 
 
 powdered; and glorious indeed must have been the hair 
 of these amber skinned beauties — long, thick, and of a 
 silky texture, with sometimes just the suggestion of wave 
 or curl; usually intensely black, but sometimes a rich dark 
 chestnut; and worn loose and flowing, bound only round 
 the forehead with chaplets of flowers or jeweled bands. 
 Beautiful indeed were their softly glowing eyes of brown, 
 mystic, deep; and small, sweetly curved, gently smiling 
 mouths, requiring no art to make them the rosiest lipped 
 women of all nations. Regular, pearly white teeth were 
 not the least of their charms. 
 
 False hair was never worn by Moorish women, a 
 superstition existing that if they attached the hair of 
 another to their own, a curse would fall upon them. To 
 send another a lock of hair was a token of surrender or 
 submission. And a cleanly race they were, preferring 
 rather to go hungry than without the daily bath. They 
 were very fond of heavy perfumes. The men are de- 
 scribed as darker skinned than their women ; tall and lithe 
 of limb, swift moving and silent, with extremely thick 
 heads of hair and long thick beards, and moustaches close 
 cropped to outline the upper lip. The hair of both Moorish 
 men and women was given every care, hours being spent 
 in brushing and smoothing the hair of the head. The men 
 would sometimes put their beards in plaits on retiring, 
 either to give a slight wave or to prevent tangling. Their 
 hands were extremely well kept as were also their teeth. 
 
 It is difficult to adequately describe the women of 
 early Italy. One cannot do so collectively, as each prov- 
 ince had its individual costume and custom, its independ- 
 ent King, Prince, or over-Lord. The united Italy we 
 know, is a far cry from the Italy of the tenth century. It 
 is stated, however, by many authoritative historians and 
 chroniclers that the use of cosmetics was well known 
 
8 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 among the women of the different principalities. They 
 rouged and powdered their faces, darkened their eye- 
 brows, and took advantage of any new idea that was ad- 
 vanced to tempt them to the further enhancement of the 
 natural charms they are said to have possessed in such 
 abundance. 
 
 From what can be learned from careful research be- 
 ginning with the tenth century, their hair seemed to have 
 been their greatest pride, and to have received every care 
 and attention in keeping with the cosmetic knowledge they 
 possessed at this early age. 
 
 The arrangement most favored was that of parting 
 the hair in the middle, brushing it back from the temples, 
 and confining it at the nape of the neck with a jeweled 
 brooch, or one of plain gold; or oftentimes with a ribbon 
 of bright silk. From the nape of the neck it was allowed 
 to flow free its entire length. A few curls were left to 
 cluster naturally over the forehead and ears, and bands 
 or chaplets of jewels and flowers were placed above these, 
 encircling the head. Graceful and artistic if the lady had 
 sufficient hair, but if she had not, then false hair was re- 
 sorted to, and another style of arrangement came to her 
 assistance. The artificial hair was arranged in plaits or 
 braids, and wrapped closely around the head over her own 
 scant locks, a fillet of gold or lace mesh was placed upon 
 the completed coiffure, and with the addition of a rose 
 coquettishly placed, she felt safe from discovery of the 
 practiced deception. 
 
 A period of neglect as regards these so-called van- 
 ities, ensued as a result of the ravages of the plague in 
 the fourteenth century. The clergy vigorously condemned 
 all personal adornment, and the people were in a state of 
 terror and fear. The priests declared the plague a judg- 
 ment of God, visited upon them for their worldly vanities. 
 
A Review of Cosmetics. 9 
 
 However, in a few years, the pride of the Italian 
 women reasserted itself, and we are able once more to 
 find them in all their sumptuous beauty, both God-given 
 and acquired. During the life of Titian, 1477-1576, 
 blonde hair was again the fashion. This wonderful artist, 
 whose fame will last as long as time, chose for his models 
 women with red, red blonde, or golden blonde hair. Con- 
 sequently the Venetian women made every effort to secure 
 unto themselves this coveted shade of hair. They were 
 long-suffering and patient, undergoing tortures in the 
 cause, and the blonde hair vogue eventually spread to 
 Milan, Naples, Florence, and throughout Southern Italy. 
 
 The method of bleaching was simple but required 
 fortitude and courage. In many dwellings in southern 
 Italy the roofs of the houses were used to a greater or 
 less extent as sun parlors; and if not the roofs, then un- 
 roofed enclosures wherein the sun shone brightly. The 
 determined lady would sit for hours during many con- 
 secutive days on the roof or in the enclosure, saturating 
 her hair in a solution of soda and water, salt and water, 
 or saffron solution, whichever she deemed most effica- 
 cious; letting it dry and immediately saturating it again 
 until the desired shade was obtained. During this period 
 of "Titianizing", Milady was not visible to callers. 
 
 And so it continues with little change, albeit a more 
 marked individuality in costume. The women of United 
 Italy of today are much the same as their sisters the 
 world over, more or less slaves to the prevailing fashions. 
 
 However, for freakishness in cosmetics and fashions 
 of coiffure, one must look to the early English men and 
 women. They borrowed fads and fashions, willy-nilly 
 from all nations and all races during a period of eight 
 hundred years. Commencing with the tenth century on 
 through many successive reigns, one gets a kaleidoscopic 
 
10 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 view of the hundred and one fashions that flit back and 
 forth through the pages of history. Each succeeding king 
 or queen brought with them their different style, which 
 lived its short day and was replaced by another. 
 
 The early Norman women remained faithful to their 
 wimple, (an arrangement resembling a nun's coif) for 
 more than a century, the longest period known for any 
 one fashion. Under this confining band of white linen, 
 the hair was coiled and tucked and pinned until the only 
 remaining evidence of hair would be a rebellious lock or 
 two, which would escape upon the forehead. 
 
 Despite constant warfare the men found some time 
 to devote to their beards and hair. If the women looked 
 odd in wimples, how much more so did the men look with 
 the backs of their heads clean shaven ! William the First 
 brought this fashion into England, but it was short lived, 
 and happily so, as it had nought of grace or beauty to 
 commend it. 
 
 Close in the wake of the shaved heads, followed the 
 fashion of many ringlets and long flowing beards and 
 moustaches; the former, at times, reaching below the 
 waist. 
 
 Much washing, combing, brushing and pomading 
 was indulged in by the men, and the use of highly per- 
 fumed pomades finally won for them from the clergy the 
 contemptuous term of "scented goats". However, as a 
 result of this careful attention to hygiene, the hair soon 
 grew long and of a much finer texture. And finally, the 
 Norman gentlewoman shocks and astounds her lord by 
 appearing before him wimple-less. The first brave lady 
 must have been happy in possessing an ample quantity of 
 hair; and a very pardonable vanity will suffice as an ex- 
 planation for a revolt from a most unbecoming fashion, 
 a century old. One can imagine the change being a most 
 
A Review of Cosmetics. 11 
 
 satisfactory one; and while bidding a willing adieu to the 
 wimple, welcome the new fashion of the hair hanging in 
 long braids, on each side of the lady's head, giving to the 
 face a softer and more womanly contour. Later, after 
 the disappearance of the wimple, when the ladies dis- 
 covered their locks to be scanty, what more natural than 
 they should supply the want by adding false braids? 
 these false braids, or casings, falling in many instances 
 to below the knees. As with the men, the change neces- 
 sitated greater attention to the care of the hair, which 
 eventually caused it to grow long and soft and very thick. 
 
 A few years pass and we find the men wearing their 
 hair brushed back from the face, parted carefully in the 
 center, and one thick lock brought forward from the 
 crown of the head to fall over the dividing line so that its 
 free end lay lightly on the forehead. Some wore beards 
 and moustaches, and others went clean shaven. At times 
 it would seem the men grew tired of the careful groom- 
 ing; and we see the hair worn close cropped and the faces 
 clean shaven. 
 
 Again the wimple appears with its stiff ungraceful 
 folds, and women's chief adornment is sacrified to the 
 ruling of custom; nor does it again make its appearance 
 for a century and a quarter. The only difference from 
 the old style wimple being that the hair flowed loose under 
 the long concealing folds. 
 
 For a time men followed their own individual fancy, 
 and many were the modes of hair dressing to be seen, 
 Some wore the hair long and many affected flowing ring- 
 lets with moustaches and beards. Others wore the hair 
 close cropped and their faces smooth shaven. 
 
 It is well to note here that in all the years covering 
 the reign of many kings, head coverings were rarely worn 
 
12 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 by the men ; and to this, no doubt, the thickness and gen- 
 eral good condition of their hair was due. 
 
 From many well preserved plates and cuts of this 
 time, one finds no change has taken place in women's 
 costume. The eternal wimple and the long straight robe 
 seem to be the universal fashion. A few kings have come, 
 ruled for a little space, and left their mark on history's 
 pages, to be succeeded by another who in turn did his best 
 — or worst. And, we find the ladies rouging, for almost 
 the first time in English history. First but faintly touch- 
 ing the lips; only to realize the beautifying possibilities, 
 and then beginning to paint the cheeks, and to powder 
 their faces, and even to darken their eye brows and lashes, 
 for one cosmetic would seemingly call for another. This 
 rouging, possibly, was a revival of a custom once common 
 among the early Britons, who painted their faces, arms, 
 necks and chests with wode, (a substance derived from 
 the blue wode flower), or sometimes with safTron. Or, 
 it may have reached them, tardily to be sure, from the 
 Egyptians, Greeks, or Romans, who had known of it for 
 centuries. 
 
 One sees in this first use of cosmetics by the ladies of 
 this time, a forerunner of many changes that are to fol- 
 low. Give the ladies a rouge pot and a powder puff and 
 we will soon learn that the day of simplicity has reached 
 its gloaming. For milady, to be in keeping with tinted 
 lip and blooming cheek must necessarily adopt many other 
 odd and sometimes ridiculous fancies. Women are rarely 
 content to accept half measures. 
 
 There is also a noteworthy change in women's coif- 
 fure. The Queen wore her hair most elaborately coiffured 
 at all times, and her favorite arrangement was to part the 
 hair in the middle, brush it forward on each side of the 
 face, and push it, (unplaited) into two cases, circular 
 
A Review of Cosmetics. 13 
 
 in shape, bound to the head by a fillet of gold. These 
 cases were of gold fret work, ornamented with precious 
 or semi-precious stones, and were very costly. 
 
 Again the hair was loosely coiled and placed in a bag 
 of gold wire and jewel work; or sometimes in two plaits 
 or braids, arranged on each side of the face and held in 
 place by a fillet. Sometimes the plaits folded straight 
 down from the parting in the center, over the ears; and 
 a small cap of gold wire was placed at the back of the 
 head. If the hair was allowed to flow loose, a wimple was 
 worn. Just as one is prepared to breathe a sign of relief, 
 it is abruptly checked as Madame Wimple is announced. 
 One could easily imagine these ungainly headdresses in- 
 fluencing English politics. Kings come and kings go for 
 some quarter of a century; and we again bow Madam 
 Wimple out, and yellow hair again is much in favor. 
 
 The Roman women adopted it from the early Teu- 
 tonic natural blonde, and the English women in turn 
 found it equally irresistible. Bleaching with saffron and 
 quince juice was resorted to in order to obtain the chosen 
 color, blondes being in the minority. However, one is 
 pleased to learn that the ladies had still some hair left on 
 which to work this chemical change. 
 
 The now reigning king is a leader of fashion. (When 
 has a king not perforce been so?) 
 
 But this one was lenient with his subjects in the way 
 of fashions, fads and preferences, and every form of 
 moustache and beard was worn. The hair was worn long, 
 touching the shoulders, gracefully curled and pressed at 
 the ends. A band of real or artificial flowers graced the 
 heads of the beaux. Hoods or "chaperons" were worn, 
 tied about the head with a liripipe, a long strip of material 
 corresponding to that of the hood and attached to the 
 crown or top of the hood ; and this strip was at times two 
 
14 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 or three feet in length, with the ends wrapped around the 
 neck. Later, when unwound, this unique affair reached 
 the ground. Sometimes it was swathed about the head 
 turban fashion, the free short end slipped through a fold 
 and left to stand out like a cockscomb. We still see what 
 remains of the liripipe worn as a cockade by footmen and 
 coachmen. 
 
 Women have ever been ruled by fashion, and in this 
 reign were slaves to it. Is it not difficult to imagine a 
 fashion which decreed the plucking out of eyebrows, and 
 shaving the back of the head? But that this fashion was 
 submitted to by the majority of the fashionable women 
 of this reign, is vouched for by many historians and 
 writers on costume and custom of the English. There is 
 no other feature that lends so much to facial expression, 
 and softens the contour of the face, and is such a neces- 
 sary complement of the eyes and nose, as the eyebrow; 
 and yet these were unhesitatingly sacrificed that Milady 
 might not be a second behind her sister in keeping pace 
 with the so-called smart fashions of the day. And those 
 dainty curling tendrils that snuggle so softly at the nape 
 of the neck — they too went the way of the eyebrow. 
 
 The hair was dressed in tight plaits and twined round 
 the head, over which a caul (a bag of gold net and jewels) 
 was worn. This left the back of the head bare, from 
 which all hair that might be exposed was carefully plucked 
 or shaven. The more sensible women wore the hair long 
 and softly waved or curled, and hanging freely on the 
 shoulders. The brow was encircled by a chaplet of flow- 
 ers or (an idea adopted from the Greeks) a plain circlet 
 of gold was substituted for the flowers. The ladies also 
 wore the hood or chaperon, with the liripipe for out of 
 doors. 
 
 As we move further along in the hair history of the 
 
 
A Review of Cosmetics. 15 
 
 English, we find them at times, (according to our own idea 
 of the fitness of things) really sensible. The men are 
 now wearing the hair much in the style of our own present 
 day, close cropped and brushed back from the forehead, 
 or curled and worn to the nape of the neck. 
 
 The beards were dressed in one long point, or parted 
 in the median line of the chin and arranged in two sharp 
 points. Many faces unadorned by moustache or beard, 
 might be found in any assembly. 
 
 The court ladies enjoyed equal freedom as to head- 
 dress. One would have her hair covered with a caul of 
 gold wire or cloth of gold, with perhaps a few ringlets 
 lying on the forehead. Many wore the hair cut short, 
 with a profusion of curls and ringlets simply confined 
 about the forehead with a circlet of gold. 
 
 With the cheeks and lips tinted, and faint blue cos- 
 metic shadows on the eyelids, one can appreciate that this 
 fashion was attractive and suitable to many faces. 
 
 Henry the Fifth introduced the fashion of wearing 
 the hair shaved for an inch or so above the ears, and en- 
 circling the head, the remaining hair very close cropped 
 in a fashion resembling a priest but without the tonsure. 
 Naturally with this style of hair cutting one finds the 
 clean shaven chin and upper lip. As there is nothing new 
 under the sun, it would be difficult to trace this fashion 
 to its real source. 
 
 The pen fails one in any attempted description of 
 fashions for women of the fifteenth century. Good taste 
 is banished in their defiance of former restrictions. 
 
 There is absolutely no hint of hair, not even one little 
 rebellious tendril; all are laboriously tucked, folded and 
 pinned away under headdresses of every conceivable 
 shape. 
 
 As we proceed, many strange sights are presented. 
 

 16 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 From William the First to Henry the Eighth, fashion is 
 like a swiftly moving shuttlecock. There are few re- 
 markable changes, it is true, but they are confusing in 
 that they flit back and forth with such frequency. 
 
 With the advent of Edward the Fourth the priestly 
 fashion of wearing the hair went out, and roundelet hats 
 and caps came in; and with this fashion of hat, came 
 again the long hair, worn much in the manner of our own 
 little folk, the familiar "Buster Brown" or Dutch cut with 
 a deep straight fringe on the forehead. Those, whom we 
 would designate as beaux or dandies, wore the hair much 
 longer and brushed out in a "bushy" effect in the back; 
 clean shaven faces were the hard and fast rule. 
 
 One may have all the reverence and respect necessary 
 for one's ancestors and yet not be blind to their faults 
 and foibles. In Richard the Third's reign fashion is ex- 
 tremely quiet, going about on tip toe as it were and speak- 
 ing in undertones. The headsman was fully occupied with 
 his affairs, and the thoughts of men and women alike 
 dwelt less on fashion and more on the condition of their 
 souls. Men were content to wear their hair dressed sim- 
 ply. There was little pomading and perfuming of locks 
 at this period. The fashion was for long straight hair 
 and small black stiff brimmed velvet hats or caps. Clean 
 shaven faces were universal. The reign is marked by the 
 passing of the wimple, gorget, hennin, caul, and other 
 ungraceful headgear of linen, silk, buckram and tow pad- 
 ding; and by the birth of the bonnet. 
 
 The hair was brushed back smoothly from the fore- 
 head and fastened securely in a coil at the back of the 
 head. All the hair was plucked from the forehead and 
 eyebrows, and a tube shaped bonnet was placed at the 
 back of the head, over the coil of hair and supported by it. 
 Two wings of transparent linen stitched on wires to form 
 
A Review of Cosmetics. 17 
 
 a V shape (the point on the forehead) were fastened over 
 the top of the head by a linen fillet. Lower down, just 
 above the ears, were two other wings in addition to the 
 V, thus giving the lady's head the appearance of a great 
 gauzy winged butterfly. This is the only picture to be 
 given of this strange bonnet, without the aid of a draw- 
 ing. The bonnet was in favor for some time, but event- 
 ually went the way of all headdress. In the succeeding 
 reign it was supplanted by another and yet more fanciful 
 head piece. 
 
 The hair is now parted in the center and brushed 
 smooth on each side, and exposed almost to the crown of 
 the head. Over this and falling down the back is a head- 
 dress of black silk, the top stiffened to resemble a sloping 
 houseroof, the front edges lying at each side of the face 
 and sewn with pearls or banded with color. Young women 
 were allowed to wear their hair long and flowing naturally 
 over the shoulders and down the back. 
 
 Another style of headdress was the loose topped bag- 
 like turban, gathered onto a jeweled band, which fitted 
 closely to the forehead. 
 
 Master of many vanities, with an educated taste in 
 wives, possessing much personal charm but little king- 
 craft, was Henry the Eighth — Henry of the curled hair 
 and full fine beard and moustache. However, he de- 
 manded that no one fashion of beards and hair dressing 
 be the rule. The hair was worn long or short, and there 
 were many styles of beard and moustache, but clean 
 shaven faces were frequently seen. 
 
 Any attempted description of the many headdresses 
 for ladies of this period would be but a repetition of those 
 already given as pertaining to the previous reign. One, 
 however, adopted from the Germans, may be mentioned 
 as new. The hair was braided and twisted and tortured, 
 
18 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 and so forced into a stiff gold wire net or draped into a 
 velvet bag or pouch; and when so arranged it stuck out 
 most ungracefully in a great bun or knot on the back, or 
 at the side in unsightly eminence. Over all this was worn 
 a small crowned hat, with a rather wide upturned brim, 
 having many jewels and feathers attached at an angle. 
 Thus was woman's greatest charm twisted, tortured and 
 tucked away for many years. One wonders they were not 
 all bald as a result of this unhygienic treatment. 
 
 When Mary, Queen of the Scots, entered London in 
 1553, she found the streets filled with foreigners, come 
 over with Phillip. And with these, of course, many (to 
 the Londoner) new and strange fashions, which later had 
 their effect on the court dress. Moustaches and beards 
 were very fashionable, especially short, close cropped, 
 round beards, or beards trimmed in two points, with waxed 
 and pointed moustaches. The hair was worn short, much 
 the same as it is today. 
 
 The ladies show more of their hair, of which little 
 has been seen since the reign of Henry the First in the 
 eleventh century. Although they still cling to the bonnet, 
 but without the side band or fillets. 
 
 The Elizabethan figure is familiar to the reader, no 
 doubt ; but as there are ever a few oddities, which, if not 
 given particular notice, would be overlooked, it is best to 
 mention some of the more interesting. Elizabeth was 
 ever fond of display and fine dress, and many were the 
 ringletted, pomaded and perfumed dandies to be met with 
 at her court. The court gentleman, as a rule, wore a 
 small moustache, and a pointed beard; and one great egg 
 shaped pearl would sometimes be seen dangling from the 
 left ear. One could find by looking close a faint trace of 
 rouge on the gentleman's cheek. Another would wear his 
 hair cut in three points, one over each ear ; the third curled 
 
A Review of Cosmetics. 19 
 
 into a lock, tied with a dull hued ribbon, and falling on the 
 center of the forehead. He, too, is furnished with a 
 moustache, and small round beard. 
 
 The ladies took a fancy for the wire head frame 
 over which the hair was dressed, false hair, and bleached 
 hair and wigs of every description ; all dressed with feath- 
 ers, gold wings, strings of pearls, and ornaments of glass. 
 
 Elizabeth had a decided penchant for red hair and 
 was never seen without a wig of this color. (We have 
 reason to believe her Majesty's own locks were but scant 
 and of no positive shade). No doubt what beauty the 
 "Virgin Queen" possessed, depended largely on red wigs 
 and cosmetics. 
 
 Her chemist was most skilled in the making of face 
 powders and rouges. It is said when Elizabeth's face was 
 made up with these cosmetics it closely resembled a mask. 
 Her wigs were arranged in tight red curls, with an over- 
 dress of many pearls and jewelled ornaments. One is sur- 
 prised to learn that a street known throughout the civilized 
 world, derived its name from a wig made by Higgins, 
 (the fashionable wig maker of the period) which he called 
 the Piccadillie. Thus do we get Piccadilly. But he, poor 
 man, was gathered to his fathers too early to benefit from 
 the honor bestowed on him by his famous patroness. 
 
 We are now at the period in which Vandyke won 
 everlasting fame. He has left us, through the agency of 
 his facile brush, many portraits and paintings of the men 
 and women of his day; a day of much beauty and art in 
 costuming and grace of movement, for much of the stiff- 
 ness of the former reigns has vanished. 
 
 The long flowing hair of the men would seem to have 
 curled naturally, so carefully and with such consummate 
 skill was the curling done over heated clay pipes. We of 
 today are familiar with the Vandyke beard. The mous- 
 
20 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 tache was parted in the center and brushed smoothly to- 
 ward the outer corners of the upper lip ; and then waxed 
 to a sharp point, to be in keeping with the beard. Some- 
 times the hair had a tousled appearance, but it was the 
 tousledness of artistic fingers. At no previous period 
 was so much time and attention given to the care of the 
 hair and beard. Each day brought a careful and thorough 
 brushing and combing, followed by a rubbing in of highly 
 perfumed oil, which gave the hair and beard a beautiful 
 lustre. 
 
 Beauty patches came into fashion with Charles First, 
 and were of many shapes. Women have always shown 
 much fondness for these quaint little patches symbolical 
 in so many ways. 
 
 There was a patch language not to be equalled by the 
 flower language or that of the fan and kerchief. 
 
 The ladies now part the hair above each ear, and it 
 is gently waved to fall over the ears. The portion on top 
 is brushed smoothly back from the brow, to be rolled in 
 with the back hair and pinned in a roll at the back of the 
 neck, where a plume is placed standing upright or at an 
 angle on either side. 
 
 The hair, at this time, demanded much attention, and 
 hair tonics were used freely. The centuries of close wim- 
 ples and tight airless headdresses had so smothered the 
 hair, that little vitally was left. The women had just 
 begun to realize the havoc these monstrous affairs had 
 wrought on their hair and to look about them for rem- 
 edies. 
 
 When the softly curling tendrils on the forehead, 
 and the love locks, came into fashion, the ladies were 
 forced to consult with wig makers and hair dyers. How- 
 ever, whether artificial or natural, we are grateful for 
 the change. The hairdresser of this time was a personage 
 
A Review of Cosmetics. 21 
 
 one could not afford to reckon without — and with good 
 cause. He did much to make women more pleasant to 
 look upon. 
 
 With the Cromwells came sombre changes, and 
 carefully dressed hair; long flowing locks, ringlets and 
 love locks, were all religiously tucked away under severe 
 hats for the men, and close fitting caps for the women. 
 Eleven years of tonsorial restriction endured, with the 
 result that many snug sums were laid by which were later 
 to be dissipated at the court of Charles the Second. 
 
 And with the coming of Charles, Milord and his lady 
 once more breathed freely, and laid in a supply of wigs, 
 ringlets, hair oils and pomades. The shadow had passed, 
 and if not forgotten, was placed in the background. Wig 
 makers, hairdressers, and hair dyers hold the foreground, 
 bestirring themselves on behalf of their patrons and for a 
 time there is little rest. The perfumer, the powder and 
 rouge chemists, are seeking material far and wide; and 
 everyone is offering incense on the altar of fashion. Peri- 
 wigs, those beautiful affairs of false hair, all curled, 
 waved and ringleted, falling to the gentleman's waist in 
 the back, and far down over the ears, were so carefully 
 dressed, they became at once the pride and despair of the 
 serving men, or valets. 
 
 There is a small moustache and small beard that as 
 yet lay but as a shadow on the underlip. Many odd fan- 
 cies, fripperies and vanities go to the making of a gen- 
 tleman of the court of Charles the Second. 
 
 The ladies have laid aside the stiff headdress with 
 which we are familiar and the hair is now worn in a mass 
 of huge curls dressed over a frame by the ears, with short, 
 cunningly arranged, little love locks on the forehead. The 
 back hair is done into an intricate knot of many loops, 
 
22 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 waves and twists. The lady, too, wears a beplumed hat 
 the exact counterpart of her brothers. 
 
 The more fanciful lady wears her hair down, so that 
 the ends fall on the shoulders and has it curled all over in 
 loose ringlets, and wears a round velvet cap. Beauty 
 patches, powder, rouge, and no waist to speak of, so small 
 has it become, complete the most chic beauty of the age. 
 
 To be without a periwig, peruke, campaign wig, pole 
 lock, or dildos, during and after the reign of William and 
 Mary, was paramount to being undressed, so necessary a 
 part of the costume had these many articles, composed of 
 false or artificial hair, become. It is difficult to call 
 to memory any one part of dress which received so much 
 care and attention; and one can readily believe that, if a 
 choice were to have been made between wigs and shoes, 
 one could have seen many barefooted men and women. A 
 fine wig was the aim and ambition of one and all. William 
 and Mary ruled England, but the wigmaker ruled king, 
 queen, and peasant alike, and was the one great leveler. 
 
 Heretofore, the poorer classes had evinced a stoical 
 indifference to fashion, but with the arrival of the wig- 
 maker the old order changed, and one touch of wig magic 
 made all men kin — at least in their desire for possession. 
 Many pen pictures might be drawn, and no one resemble 
 another. There are wigs in a riot of curls, with ringlets 
 over the shoulders and down the back. The brown wig, 
 unpowdered, was worn by the unassuming gentleman (if 
 one such could be said to have existed at this period). 
 Many wigs were powdered with meal and flour — this 
 was before the hair powder had been discovered in the 
 gray mud of a certain road, (which after being dried and 
 pulverized became a snow white). Gentlemen were fre- 
 quently to be seen at public functions combing and brush- 
 ing their periwigs and incidentally showering their neigh- 
 
A Review of Cosmetics. 23 
 
 bors with a cloud of white powder; who in their turn 
 could take consolation in being able to pay the debt in 
 kind, if it so pleased them. 
 
 For riding there was a special kind of periwig, less 
 curled. For traveling, a campaign wig with dildos; such 
 wig being full over the ears and upper side of the fore- 
 head, without the two wing shaped curls, usually dressed 
 in single pipes, and hanging down over the shoulders in 
 front. This ended in a single pipe in the back, tied by a 
 ribbon, and was sometimes called bob wig. Moustaches 
 and beards had for the time disappeared, and only smooth 
 shaven faces were to be seen. 
 
 In comparison with the men, the ladies were sim- 
 ply dressed. There were, of course, the beauty patches, 
 much powder, and more paint. Every gentlewoman had 
 her own book of prescriptions from which her chemist 
 compounded face powders, lip salves, rouge, cold creams, 
 pomades, and hair bleaches, hair stains and hair powders 
 of the time. 
 
 We must now examine the "conmode". This was a 
 wire frame, thin at each end, and thick in the middle, so 
 that it was half moon shape. Over this the ladies ar- 
 ranged their hair in many curls, piled high on the fore- 
 head. Above this was a "fontage", an affair composed 
 of alternating rows of lace and ribbon stitched one above 
 the other ; or a thin stuff wired until it perched from twelve 
 to eighteen inches above the forehead. (The fontage, or 
 tower, was first worn by Mile. Fontage at the court of 
 Louis the Sixteenth of France). The side and back hair 
 was made into long curls and allowed to flow unwound 
 down the back and over the shoulders; beside the curls 
 and waves covering the "conmode", there were many tiny 
 curls lying in a flat row on the forehead. These were 
 
24 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 called "creve-coeurs". Later on in this reign, the ladies 
 copy the men and wear the hair in bob wigs. 
 
 Wig wearing continues through the reign of Queen 
 Anne and until that of George the Fourth, 1820-1830, but 
 with some changes. They were now worn long and flow- 
 ing, much curled, parted evenly down the center, falling 
 to each side of the face, and powdered with brown or 
 white powder. 
 
 It was not unusual to find a gentleman sitting in 
 dressing gown and slippers, while the wigs are removed 
 from their roulettes, (a large round box used for the pur- 
 pose) and displayed for his choice or approval. The 
 "peruquier" or hairdresser removes the warm clay pipes, 
 or tubes, over which the hair has been wrapped for curl- 
 ing, and places the wig carefully, but securely on the gen- 
 tleman's head, with a pat here and there to the pipes to 
 adjust them properly. Now the gentleman puts his face 
 in a round glass bowl while the peruquier tosses white 
 powder freely over the wig. If a long queue falls down 
 the back of the wig, (called the Ramillie's wig), a bow 
 is tied to the end and the worst is over. At times the wig 
 is a short black periwig in bobs — gathered in bunches on 
 the shoulders and tied in a little bob at the back of the 
 neck. 
 
 George the First is on the throne, the periwig is 
 singing its swan song, and the beautiful snow white wig 
 looped and curled, is the fashion. There are wigs in three 
 divisions of loops in the back. Wigs in long queues ; wigs 
 in back and side bobs. In fact, a perfect garden of wigs, 
 and everywhere clean shaven faces, just beginning to 
 assume the pink hue of health after so many years of con- 
 cealing beards, the shaving of which at first gave a rather 
 pallid look to the face. With the universal wearing of 
 white wigs, one sees a marvelous softening of the facial 
 
A Review of Cosmetics. 25 
 
 expression, a general appearance of youth, and an unusual 
 brightness of the eyes due to the softly curled pure white 
 wig. One observes the same softening of the face in all 
 white-haired people, if the hair is kept in the perfect con- 
 dition that all white hair demands. 
 
 In George the Second's reign, there flourished in 
 London a wig lottery, tickets selling at a six pence. Griz- 
 zle Majors, an ordinary wig, sold at twenty-five shillings; 
 Great Tyes at a guinea; brown bag wigs at fifteen shill- 
 ings; and if one were lucky and won a lottery, it was in- 
 deed money saved. And wigs passed from father to son, 
 and the inheritance was welcomed. Sometimes they 
 reached the second hand shop, and after a thorough over- 
 hauling, were again placed in the market. There were 
 Count Saxe wigs, pigeon wing wigs, cut bobs, wigs called 
 the "Negligent", drop wigs, and bag wigs. The pen does 
 net suffice, and word portraiture fails, though one may do 
 one's best. 
 
 The ladies painted, patched, powdered and perfumed 
 — and let it be added, the same applied to the gentlemen. 
 A list of cosmetic adjuncts will not be out of place, and 
 there was a wide field to choose from. Chief of all were 
 musk, bergamot, Eau de Chipre, Eau de Luce or Lux, 
 Sans Pariel, citron juice, a vermilion hued pigment for 
 lips and cheeks ; and a stick of black pigment for the eyes 
 and lashes. Scant locks presented no difficulty to the 
 ladies of this period, as one could purchase any quantity 
 desired from the wig maker. 
 
 During the reign of George the Third, a period of 
 sixty years, the wig still flourished, not quite so long or 
 full, but conforming more to the natural shape of the head. 
 
 After 1795 there are but few examples of the pow- 
 dered hair for the men, and there is a great change in 
 fashions for women. The enormous wig arrives many 
 
26 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 stories high, masses of meal and flax and stuffing, pow- 
 der and pomatum, which required three hours in the dress- 
 ing. Evil smelling masses whereby the ladies preference 
 for the navy, gardening, or the sports, was evinced. One 
 balances a ship of straw on the pinnacle of this towering 
 headdress, another a coach, or a flower garden in full 
 bloom. If the lady was fastidious she had her head done 
 every three weeks; andrescenting became a necessity, not 
 a preference. Monstrous piles of horse hair, hemp, wool, 
 and powder made into a paste composed these odoriferous 
 monuments to fashion; the cleaning of which is best not 
 given in detail. 
 
 It would seem that for all our vaunted courage and 
 individuality, we are but slaves to our neighbor's opinion. 
 We are afraid not to be in the fashion, even if our good 
 taste and judgment warns us that a certain style is ridicu- 
 lous and unbecoming. With a sigh of resignation we 
 submit our poor bodies to its rule, only to discover on the 
 morrow that it is no longer "good form" or "smart". 
 Indeed, there should be a law against such slavery; and 
 some fine day one of our fair sex, with the necessary 
 militant courage, is going to devote her brain and the 
 necessary time to the forming of a universal costume for 
 women, that will spell comfort, good taste and smartness 
 combined. 
 
 England owes much to Beau Brummel for having 
 invented modern masculine attire. Always spotlessly 
 clean, never overdressed or in brilliant colors, but always 
 in perfectly good taste, the daily bath was a religion with 
 him. One whose daily companionship with a foppish 
 king did not rob him of his individuality, he will live long 
 in the memory of Englishmen for his cleanliness and wit. 
 
 American fashions in coiffure varied little from the 
 English, the early colonist being dependent upon France 
 
A Review of Cosmetics. 27 
 
 and England for new fashions and fripperies. However, 
 the Puritan parsons played a large part in deciding what 
 should or should not be worn. And how they did preach 
 and rave and wrangle at women (and sometimes men) 
 for their innocent vanities! Any evidence of the posses- 
 sion of hair by the women was particularly railed at, till 
 one would think some error had been made in not having 
 created them bald, and fitted with an enormous cap, hood 
 or wimple. The maids and matrons promised to forego 
 the luxury of visible hair; but human flesh is weak, and 
 we fear the promises were broken almost before the words 
 were cold. 
 
 Many Puritan magistrates of the time are pictured 
 with long flowing, curled, but unpowdered wigs, and well- 
 cared for moustaches and imperials or small beards. 
 Pomades for the dressing of these were an article to be 
 found with every gentleman's toilet accessories. Of the 
 ladies it can only be said of them they did their best ; and 
 the best of some was fine and beautiful, indeed. Many 
 of them were artfully and artistically familiar with the 
 rouge and powder puff. The crisping pin and curling 
 tongs were used, openly or secretly by many Puritan 
 gentlewomen. However, had they heeded the gospel, as 
 propounded in the pulpit by the parsons of the day, they 
 would have had no hair to crisp or curl. 
 
 It is difficult for the women of today to understand 
 why there was such wrangling over women's principal 
 adornment — the hair. It would seem to us quite simply 
 arranged, before the powdered wig for women became 
 fashionable. There was no one fashion. For the most 
 part the hair was parted in the center of the forehead and 
 waved or curled lightly and brushed back; where it was 
 coiled and pinned at the nape of the neck, or brushed up 
 and pinned on the top of the head. Occasionally, a small 
 
28 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 bunch of curls or ringlets were tied just above the ears 
 and stood out a little from the face, with a few loose curls 
 on the forehead. Another fashion was to part the hair 
 across the head from ear to ear, and cut it rather short to 
 form a fringe or "bang" (to use the American word). 
 Curled false hair was worn by some in the form of a 
 peruke, instead of the natural hair tied above the ears. 
 These so-called "perukes" were formed over rolls, with a 
 bunch of false curls spread over it and standing out at an 
 angle on each side of the face. The balance of the hair 
 was brushed back and done in a roll at the back of the 
 head. Many women wore the fringe or "bang" uncurled. 
 
 Then followed a period of periwigs for the ladies, (as 
 yet not alarming in dimensions) beautifully curled and 
 powdered. The Virginian gentlewoman, like her Puritan 
 sisters, at first wore her hair quite as simply dressed, tho 
 pomades were much used. Later she appears powder- 
 ing the natural hair. We can understand what a labor 
 of shampooing followed; so nothing was more natural 
 than the idea of wearing wigs, (the men had worn them 
 for a long time), all powdered and curled and ready to 
 slip on over their own closely confined hair. Then fol- 
 lowed a period of pomading and powdering, strange to 
 behold. Many colored powders were used, black, orange, 
 and for a time even blue ; white was, of course, the most 
 popular. And when was a powdered wig complete with- 
 out its accompaniment of beauty patch ? With a touch of 
 rouge to cheek, lips and chin, the brows and lashes ac- 
 centuated by faint outlining with black eyebrow pencil, 
 what more dainty, sweet and womanly? With that true 
 womanliness no vanity of fashion, paint, powder or 
 curled wig could destroy. But who is not familiar with 
 the far famed "Colonial Dame" — what pictures they were 
 

 A Review of Cosmetics. 29 
 
 and are still — to stir our hearts to memories of old days, 
 old ways, lavendar scented, simple, and in many ways best ! 
 
 Yet there came a day when this quaint simplicity was 
 sadly changed. Their wigs underwent a startling trans- 
 formation and appeared as towers, or one might say, pil- 
 lows. Everything was used in their construction, and they 
 were stuffed out and up over the lady's head a foot or 
 more. They reached their zenith, slowly subsided, and 
 disappeared, let us hope, forever. 
 
 Among the younger men of Colonial times, wig wear- 
 ing was not usual ; they as a rule wearing their own hair, 
 long and curled. As they grew older they shaved their 
 heads close and wore the full wig, waved and curled and 
 heavily powdered with white powder. 
 
 So we bid adieu to freakish fashion in hair and 
 headdress. The dear ladies and gentlemen who wore them 
 — God bless them ! for with all their whims and fancies, 
 they yet found time to be true men and women, tender 
 wives and loyal husbands, whether in wimple, hennin or 
 caul, periwig, bob wig, white, powdered or natural hair. 
 The paint patches and powder did not smother the good- 
 ness of their hearts or stain their honor. Had we lived 
 in their day, being no stronger than the strongest, we 
 would have painted, powdered and bewigged ourselves as 
 they did. Deny it who can. 
 
 In conclusion, one is led to speculate on the far famed 
 beauty of ancient women, and from what can be gleaned 
 concerning their free use of cosmetics, we wonder how 
 much was real and how much acquired. That there were 
 really beautiful women we of course realize. Time and 
 tradition has drawn a veil over this question, and we 
 should perhaps hesitate before placing a desecrating hand 
 of removal upon it. But to the seeker after truth naught 
 but truth will suffice; and we know, no matter what the 
 
30 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 natural charm of women may be, they are quite willing to 
 enhance it, if this can be accomplished without injury. 
 That is the difficulty — trying to determine just wherein 
 the injury may lie. 
 
 Until the subject of cosmetics is perused and accepted 
 along educational lines, just so long will this danger sur- 
 vive. Cosmetics always have been and always will be 
 used — then why not intelligently? 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 ANATOMY OF THE SCALP AND HAIR. 
 
 The Hair and the Nails are appendages of the 
 skin, and in order to thoroughly understand their struc- 
 ture some knowledge of the anatomy of the latter organ 
 is essential. 
 
 The Skin consists of two parts: an outer, super- 
 ficial, epithelial layer, known as the Epidermis or Cuticle, 
 or the false skin ; and a second, deeper layer, known as the 
 Corneum or Cutis Vera — sometimes called the true skin. 
 Beneath the true skin is a layer of subcutaneous tis- 
 sue of considerable thickness which forms a loose attach- 
 ment between the skin and the under-lying structures. 
 The skin varies in thickness on different parts of the 
 body, being thicker on the back of the head, the neck, and 
 the trunk, than on the front of the body; and thicker on 
 the outer side of the limbs than on the inner side. 
 
 The Epidermis or false skin serves as a protective 
 layer to the under-lying, sensitive true skin. It varies in 
 thickness in different regions of the body, being very thin 
 in some places as on the eyelids, and very thick on other 
 parts of the body as the palms of the hands and soles of 
 the feet. The fully developed epidermis consists of four 
 layers : first, the Stratum Corneum or outside layer, which 
 is composed of thin, flattened, horny scales; second, the 
 Stratum Lucidum, which appears as a thin, poorly defined 
 layer, the cells being horny-like in structure, and slightly 
 transparent; third, the Stratum Granulosum, a thin layer 
 of cells having a granular appearance and containing 
 
 (31) 
 
32 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 granules of Eleidin; fourth, the Malpigian Layer, which 
 is composed of two kinds of cells. The outer cells of this 
 layer are many sided in form, and have delicate projecting 
 spines resembling prickle-cells. The other cells, found 
 next the true skin, are columnar in character. The pig- 
 ment granules which give the color to the skin, while 
 distributed widely throughout the epidermis, are found 
 principally in the deep cells of the Malpigian layer; and 
 to the presence of a large quantity of this pigment is due 
 the dark color of the skin of the negro. 
 
 The True Skin consists of two layers: first, an 
 outer, dense layer known as the Papillary Layer, which is 
 covered with small papillae, or projections forming the 
 principal organs of the sense of touch; second, an Inner 
 Reticular Layer, which is looser in structure and made up 
 of coarser bundles of tissue. There is no well defined line 
 of demarcation between these two layers, the papillary 
 layer blending with the reticular, while the latter blends 
 gradually into the under-lying tissue. 
 
 The Scalp is that portion of the skin which covers 
 the top, back, and sides of the head above and behind the 
 ears. The skin of the scalp is usually thicker than the 
 skin on any other part of the body, and contains a large 
 number of hair follicles in which are implanted an 
 abundant growth of hair. The area of the average adult 
 scalp is one hundred and twenty square inches, and the 
 average number of hairs to the square inch is estimated 
 at one thousand; the number of hairs varying however 
 with their color and location, as well as with the age and 
 sex of the individual. Light blonde hair is the finest, and 
 a shade of dark red hair the coarsest, of the hairs of the 
 scalp, and scalp hair is finer in texture than the hair on 
 the face. The scalp is composed of the skin, the sweat 
 
PLATE I. 
 
 LONGITUDINAL MEDIAN SECTION OF HAIR SHAFT, 
 BULB, AND FOLLICLE. 
 
 HAIR FOLLICLE. 
 
 a. Outer coat, showing longitudinal fibers. 
 
 b. Middle coat, transverse fibers. 
 
 c. Inner coat. 
 
 d. Prickle cell layer. 
 
 ROOT-SHEATH. 
 
 e. Outer layer of the root-sheath. 
 
 f. Inner layer of root-sheath. 
 
 g. Cuticle of root-sheath. 
 
 HAIR SHAFT. 
 
 h. Cuticle of the hair; composed of flat cells over-lapping like 
 
 shingles, with free ends directed upward, 
 j. Cortex; composed of spindle-shaped cells firmly adherent to each 
 
 other, and forming the bod}' of the hair. The cortex contains 
 
 the cells of pigment to which the color of the hair is due. 
 k. Medullary, or central canal filled with non-pigmented cells, kera- 
 
 tohyalin granules and air bubbles. 
 1. Papilla; a cone-like projection upward of connective tissue fibers; 
 
 contains the minute arteries and veins by means of which the hair 
 
 is nourished. 
 
 m. Blood vessels of the papilla. 
 
Anatomy of the Scalp and Hair. 33 
 
 glands, the hair follicles (in which we find the hair 
 shafts), the sebaceous glands, which secrete the necessary 
 oil for the hair, and the erector pili muscles, attached to 
 the hair follicles and serving to elevate the hair. The hair 
 follicles vary from one-twelfth to one-quarter of an inch 
 in depth, and penetrate the scalp in a slanting direction. 
 
 A Hair Follicle is simply a pear-shaped, tubular 
 depression in the epidermis or outer layer of the skin, the 
 larger end of which is directed downward, into or through 
 the substance of the cutis or true skin. The supporting 
 wall of the follicle is derived from the dermis or true skin, 
 and is divided into an inner and an outer layer. 
 
 The Inner Layer is composed of fibrous bands 
 which run in a circular direction around the follicle, while 
 from below it gives off a small cone-shaped mass which pro- 
 jects upward into the lower end of the follicle and forms 
 the hair papilla. The Outer Layer is composed of fibers 
 which run parallel with the long axis of the follicle; and 
 the lining of the walls of the latter consists of an external 
 sheath and an internal sheath. The External Sheath is 
 composed of modified cells of the epidermis or false skin, 
 and is arranged in three layers — an external layer, a 
 middle layer, and an internal layer, which end near the 
 papilla at the bottom of the follicle. The Internal Sheath 
 is also composed of three layers — an outer layer or layer 
 of Henle ; a middle layer or layer of Huxley ; and an inner 
 layer or cuticle of the follicle. It is formed from the 
 cells on the sides of the neck of the papilla, and grows 
 upward, ending at the neck of the follicle. Between the 
 epithelial lining and the walls of the follicle we find the 
 Vitreous or Glassy Membrane — a continuation of the 
 membrane which separates the dermis from the epidermis. 
 
 The Hair Papilla is a small, projecting, cone- 
 
 3 
 
34 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 shaped mass of connective tissue given off by the inner 
 layer of true skin, and extending up into the bottom of 
 the hair follicle from below. Each hair takes origin and 
 draws its nourishment from the papilla; and in its growth 
 passes upward through the hollow, tube-like hair follicle, 
 until it emerges at the surface of the skin. Should the 
 vitality of the papilla be interfered with, the hair it nour- 
 ishes ceases to grow, or dies and is cast off. 
 
 Structure of the Hair. 
 
 The Hair is a shaft-like, horny structure of skin 
 origin ; its composition being somewhat similar to the sub- 
 stance composing the nails, but much more soft and 
 elastic. A Complete Hair is made up of four parts : The 
 Bulb, or expanded lower end of the hair, is found at the 
 bottom of the follicle, and has in its end a cup-shaped 
 depression that fits over the papilla as an acorn hull fits 
 the acorn ; The Hair Root includes the bulb and that por- 
 tion of the hair contained within the hair follicle; The 
 .Hair Shaft is that part of the hair which begins at the 
 ■level of the skin and extends up to where the shaft begins 
 to taper at the end ; The Point is the extreme distal end of 
 the hair. 
 
 The Hair Shaft in cross section may be circular, 
 oval or flattened; and whether the hair is round or flat- 
 tened determines whether the hair is straight or curly — 
 the flatter the hair shaft, the more it will curl. In the 
 center of the hair shaft is a central or medullary canal, 
 which is filled with a substance called the Medulla. This 
 latter is made up of groups of many sided cells, separated 
 one from the other by small air spaces, and sometimes 
 containing grains of pigment. The medullary canal be- 
 gins at the top of the hair papilla, and extends to within 
 a short distance from the point of the hair. Surrounding 
 
PLATE II. 
 
 TRANSVERSE SECTION OF HAIR AT MIDDLE OF 
 FOLLICLE HAIR SHAFT. 
 
 HAIR SHAFT. 
 
 a. Medullary, or central canal, filled with many-sided cells. 
 
 b. Cortex, or body of the hair, showing the fine pigment granules in 
 and between the spindle-shaped cells. 
 
 c. Cuticles of hair shaft and root-sheath. 
 
 d. Inner layer of root-sheath. 
 
 e. Outer layer of root-sheath. 
 
 f. Prickle-cell layer of the follicle. 
 
 g. Inner layer of follicle, 
 h. Outer coat of follicle. 
 
I 
 
Anatomy of the Scalp and Hair. 35 
 
 the central canal is the Cortex or horny tube which forms 
 the body of the hair. It is composed of bundles of long, 
 spindle-shaped cells, and contains the major portion of 
 the pigment or coloring matter which gives the hair its 
 basic color. The hair shaft has no nerve supply, but there 
 are very fine nerve branches which penetrate the hair 
 follicles. As yet no nerves to the hair papillae have been 
 traced in the human subject. 
 
 The Cuticle or outside covering of the hair is com- 
 posed of a layer of many sided plates, free from coloring 
 matter and arranged somewhat like the scales of a fish; 
 having their free ends directed outward and upward to- 
 ward the point of the hair, and interlocking with the 
 downward pointing cells of the lining of the hair follicle. 
 
 The Sebaceous Glands secrete the Sebum, a sub- 
 stance resembling soft butter, which oils the hair. These 
 glands are composed of groups of lobules joined together 
 and are similar in arrangement to a small bunch of 
 grapes; the sebum is emptied through a common duct 
 into the upper third of the follicle directly upon the hair 
 shaft, thus oiling the hair and rendering it soft and 
 pliable. 
 
 The Sweat Glands number about forty to the 
 square inch, and therefore have an important bearing on 
 diseases of the scalp. 
 
 The Blood Supply of the hair is derived from the 
 capillary network of blood vessels which surround and 
 feed the walls of the hair follicle ; and from small arterial 
 loops which project from below up into the hair papillae, 
 which they nourish. 
 
 Muscles of the Hair. 
 
 Each hair follicle possesses a small muscle, one end 
 
36 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 of which is inserted into the inner layer of connective tis- 
 sue which forms the wall of the follicle, the other end 
 being attached at an angle to the true skin above. This 
 muscle is called the Erector Pili Muscle and when it con- 
 tracts the hair follicle is raised from its normal slanting 
 position in the scalp to an upright position, thus elevating 
 the hair point and causing the hair to "stand on end." 
 
 Types of Hair. 
 
 Human hair is divided into three classes. First, long, 
 soft hair; the anatomy of which type has already been 
 described. Long, soft hair is found on the head, and 
 after the age of puberty, on the face, in the armpits and 
 over the pubic regions. When the body hair is well de- 
 veloped, the chest of the male is frequently covered by a 
 growth of true long hair. 
 
 Second, short, stiff hair. This variety is found in 
 the eyelashes and eyebrows, where it is called Cilia; in 
 the nose, where it is called Vibrisae; and in the external 
 ears, where it is called Tragi. Short, stiff hair differs 
 from the long, soft hair in that the hair follicles are 
 implanted in the skin in a perpendicular direction, and 
 naturally do not possess erector pili muscles. 
 
 Third, Lanugo, or downy hair is the name given to 
 the short, delicate hair which is found distributed over 
 the entire surface of the body. It is very much finer in 
 texture than long or short hair, is usually colorless, and 
 does not possess a medullary canal. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 PHYSIOLOQY OF THE HAIR. 
 
 Rudimentary Hair begins to develop on the face 
 of the unborn child as early as the third month, and 
 gradually spreads over the entire body and extremities; 
 the process being completed about the seventh month, 
 when it is slowly shed in the order of its first appearance. 
 It differs from the hair after birth in that it possesses no 
 medulla. After birth a new growth appears which repre- 
 sents the permanent type of hair, as it contains a central 
 canal, and gradually increases in thickness, length and 
 color. 
 
 The Age of Puberty is marked by a growth of 
 hair over the pubic region, in the armpits, and on males, 
 over the face. In women the growth of hair in the arm- 
 pits is usually less developed than in men, and in many 
 instances is entirely lacking. From the thirty-fifth to the 
 fortieth years, a growth of short, stiff hair frequently 
 appears in the nose and external ears, and the hair of the 
 eyebrows becomes thicker and coarser. This growth is 
 pronounced in men who possess an abundant growth of 
 hair on the body. 
 
 New Hair. 
 
 In the Human Race there is a Constant Shed- 
 ding and New Growth of Hair. This process is 
 accomplished in the following manner : The hair loosens 
 from its papilla ; the end of the root passes up to the mid- 
 dle third of the follicle, where it remains attached for a 
 
 (37) 
 
38 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 varying length of time; the papilla grows smaller; and 
 finally the lower end of the follicle collapses. Hair in this 
 condition is known as Bed Hair, and all healthy hair goes 
 through this stage before it falls. When the end of the 
 root of a bed hair passes beyond the middle third of the 
 follicle, it receives no nourishment, and as a result dies 
 and falls from the head. About two months after the hair 
 bulb has passed up to the middle follicular region, a new 
 hair begins to grow from the papilla, and in one or two 
 months it is completely formed, the growth of new hair 
 usually beginning before the bed hair has fallen from 
 its follicle. 
 
 Length of Hair Life — Rate of Growth. 
 
 There is a marked variation in the length of life of 
 hair, not only between the hairs of different individuals, 
 but also between the hairs found on the same scalp. Fac- 
 tors which determine the length of life of hair are age and 
 sex, whether the hair is coarse or fine, and the condition 
 of body health. The length of life of an individual hair 
 on the human head varies from two to six years. The 
 lifetime of eyelashes is from four to six months. The rate 
 of hair growth varies from three-eighths to three-quarters 
 of an inch a month until it has reached the length of twelve 
 to fourteen inches, when its rate of growth is reduced 
 one-half. Past this point the growth gradually ceases. 
 Hair grows faster in warm weather than in cold, and 
 faster by day than by night. The hair of women of the 
 white race attains an average length of from twenty to 
 twenty-four inches, although it may reach forty to sixty 
 inches in some cases. The hair of men will not attain 
 an average greater length than eight or twelve inches, 
 even if left uncut. 
 
Physiology of the Hair. 39 
 
 Chemical Composition of the Hair. 
 
 Chemically, hair is composed principally of — 
 
 Carbon 54-52 
 
 Hydrogen 6.41 
 
 Nitrogen 17 . 82- 
 
 Sulphur 5 . 20 
 
 Oxygen 16.05. 
 
 Mineral matter, about 2%. 
 
 The mineral matter consists of Sodium Sulphate,. 
 Calcium Sulphate, Iron Oxide, Silica, with Carbonates. 
 Phosphates, and Chlorides of Calcium, Magnesium and 
 Sodium. Hair gradually grows darker and coarser with 
 advancing age, this evolution being more rapid in males 
 than in females. Hair of darker shades contains a larger 
 proportion of carbon and iron than the lighter shades, 
 while sulphur and oxygen are found in relatively larger 
 quantities in light hair than in dark. White hair contains, 
 a larger amount of mineral matter than colored hair. 
 
 The Pigment or coloring matter of the hair is pro- 
 duced by obscure chemical action indirectly from the 
 coloring matter of the blood; and is found chiefly in the 
 Cortex, where it is conveyed by the pigment carrying cells, 
 located principally upon the sides of the papilla. 
 
 The Color of the Hair is Dependent Upon Four 
 Factors: First, the diffused pigment, found in the me- 
 dullary canal and cortex, which imparts a light brown to 
 a dark red color according to the quantity of pigment 
 present ; Second, the granular pigment — found in or 
 between the fibers of the cortex and sometimes in the 
 medulla — which varies in color from a brown to an in- 
 tense black. The more granular pigment the cortex con- 
 tains, the darker the color of the hair, but some granular 
 pigment is found in every shade of hair; Third, the pres- 
 
40 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 ence of air globules, which are found in the outer layer of 
 the cortex, and which by their power of refracting light 
 modify the color of the hair ; Fourth, the greater power of 
 reflecting light possessed by an object with a rough sur- 
 face over one that is smooth ; the former giving it a lighter 
 shade. 
 
 Various Shades of Hair. 
 
 The color of the hair may be white, yellow, red, 
 brown, and black with a multitude of intervening shades, 
 dependent upon the amount, color and combinations of pig- 
 ment. The Color of the Hair almost always corresponds 
 in Shade with the Color of the Complexion and the Eyes; 
 so that hair not properly stained to preserve this harmony, 
 is easily detected by close observation, and instead of 
 enhancing beauty, serves to disfigure. 
 
 The Diameter of Scalp Hair varies from 1/250 
 to 1/500 of an inch. The average diameter of the hair of 
 women is greater than that of men; while the hair of the 
 young is finer than that of adults. Very light blonde hair 
 is the finest in texture, and a type of red hair is usually 
 the coarsest; but the diameter of hairs may vary on 
 the same head, and individual hairs differ in diameter 
 throughout their extent. 
 
 Hygroscopic Propenties. 
 
 Hair readily absorbs moisture — the hair shaft be- 
 coming thicker and rounder. This fact explains why hair 
 that has been artificially waved loses its curl in damp 
 weather. 
 
 Elasticity and Strength. 
 
 The hair is very elastic and so strong that a well 
 developed, large hair will sustain a weight of several 
 
Physiology of the Hair. 41 
 
 ounces. On account of its chemical composition it vies 
 with the teeth in resisting after death the ravaging of time. 
 
 Uses of Hair, 
 
 First, the hair, being a nonconductor of heat, serves 
 to maintain an even temperature of the head and neck. 
 Second, it serves as a means of protection from physical 
 violence. Third, beautiful, luxuriant hair furnishes the 
 one incomparable background to soften rough facial fea- 
 tures. Its shade, harmonizing with the color of the skin 
 and eyes, brings out their greatest beauty; it modifies the 
 irregular contour of the head, and produces symmetry 
 of form. Beautiful hair is woman's crowning glory, and 
 man's principal adornment. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 HYGIENE OF THE HAIR. 
 
 To acquire or retain beautiful hair, its scientific cul- 
 ture is of the greatest importance. Fully eighty-five per 
 cent of the cases of Alopecia Praematura, or loss of hair 
 not due to specific disease and occurring before the age of 
 forty- five years, is due to neglect of the laws of hygiene 
 of the hair and scalp before the age of puberty. In many 
 instances there is an inherited tendency to baldness or to 
 scant, stiff, discolored hair, which requires especial care 
 and attention. Massage and absolute cleanliness, together 
 with scientific preparations intelligently applied, are neces- 
 sary in order to prevent or cure diseases of the scalp and 
 hair, and to insure the maximum amount of nourishment ; 
 while routine measures to promote their health and growth 
 from an early age should be adopted and persistently fol- 
 lowed. We wish to emphasize that absolute cleanliness 
 is essential, not only of the hair and scalp, but also of the 
 brushes and combs used in caring for them. The wearing 
 of hats, ,or any form of head-dress other than one's own 
 may result in great harm. Insufficient or over-exposure 
 of the hair to fresh air and light, tight fitting, unventilated 
 forms of head-dresses such as fur hats or caps, which heat 
 the scalp and induce excessive perspiration, in fact any 
 treatment which common sense would condemn as harm- 
 ful, must be avoided. 
 
 False Hair. 
 
 The practice of constantly wearing false hair as an 
 aid to personal adornment is ill-advised when considered 
 
 (42) 
 
Hygiene of the Hair. 43 
 
 from a hygienic standpoint; it heats the head and induces 
 perspiration of the scalp, with its attendant evils which 
 directly inhibit hair health and growth; the degree of 
 injury being dependent upon the length of time, and the 
 amount of hair worn. It is far better to stimulate the 
 growth of natural hair by the adoption of proper means, 
 even though much time and patience are required, than to 
 achieve a temporary comeliness by the wearing of false 
 hair which may have been taken from the dead, or from 
 some person afflicted with disease. Study the physiology 
 and hygiene of the scalp and learn how to acquire and 
 maintain beautiful hair; thus avoiding those dangers en- 
 tailed by the constant wearing of false tresses — a habit 
 so unnatural, unsanitary, and in many instances so filthy. 
 
 Sun Bleached Hair. 
 
 Hair health and growth are promoted by a favorable 
 amount of exposure to the air and light; while prolonged 
 exposure to the hot rays of the sun will bleach or fade the 
 color of the hair and destroy its lustre. Nature endeavors 
 to prevent this latter action of the sun's rays by increasing 
 in the cortex of the hair shaft the deposit of pigment, 
 which serves as a protective agent to the head in a manner 
 similar to that of the pigment of the skin which protects 
 the body. This fact explains why the inhabitants of hot 
 countries have as a rule hair of darker shade than people 
 who live in a colder climate. 
 
 When nature fails in her effort to conserve the vitality 
 of the hair by an increased pigmentary deposit, there 
 results a condition known as sun-bleached hair, the result 
 of exposure through the hot summer months, which is 
 characterized by a dull, lifeless condition, due to the exces- 
 sive action of the sun's rays especially upon hair that has 
 been wet and improperly dried. As a result the hair 
 
44 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 becomes dry with split ends, and its beauty and vitality is 
 impaired. To correct this condition nutrition in the form 
 of a nourishing oil should be massaged into the scalp until 
 the lost vigor is restored. Pure white vaseline, pure olive 
 oil or sweet almond oil may be used. If a thin oil is used 
 it may be applied to the scalp by means of a medicine 
 dropper. The most convenient way of applying the vase- 
 line is to place a teaspoonful in a small dish, dip the ringer 
 tips into this and apply by parting the hair in the middle 
 and massaging with the finger tips along the entire line of 
 exposed scalp; then make small partings as near to the 
 first line as possible and continue the operation until the 
 vaseline has been applied to the entire scalp. By using the 
 oil or vaseline in this way the proper nourishment can be 
 supplied to the scalp without rendering the hair greasy or 
 sticky. This procedure should be repeated once weekly, 
 and should be followed by a shampoo on the succeeding 
 day. 
 
 The Hair Brush. 
 
 The hair brush should have stiff, firm bristles, set 
 rather widely apart, and arranged in rows or in widely 
 separated tufts. Theoretically, the bristles in the middle 
 of the brush should be longer than those of the edge, in 
 order that perfect adjustment between the ends of the 
 bristles and the scalp may be secured. We do not indorse 
 the use of brushes with wire bristles as they irritate the 
 scalp, and offer no particular advantage over a brush with 
 natural bristles. The brush should be used at least twice 
 daily with sufficient vigor to brush out all foreign matter 
 lodged in the hair and to produce a feeling of stimulation 
 in the scalp. 
 
Hygiene of the Hair. 45 
 
 Care of the Brush. 
 
 The brush should be disinfected weekly by washing 
 with soap and hot water, by soaking in a solution of 
 Formalin and water in the proportion of a teaspoonful to 
 a pint, or by means of borax and water. One of the most 
 effectual ways of cleansing the brush, aside from boiling, 
 and one that will not make the bristles too soft is by 
 immersing the bristles in warm water to which a little 
 ammonia has been added; another excellent method and 
 one which will remove all grease and leave the bristles 
 firm is by rubbing thoroughly with dry bran, afterward 
 combing and shaking it out. 
 
 Stiffening the Bristles. 
 
 The stiffness may be restored to bristles by washing 
 them in hot water to which a small amount of ammonia 
 has been added, then dipping them in salt water and allow- 
 ing to dry with the bristles up in the open air. A solution 
 of baking soda and cold water may be substituted for the 
 above if desired. 
 
 Proper Use of the Brush. 
 
 The daily brushing and combing of the hair tends, 
 more than by any other means, to impart that beautiful 
 gloss which is so desired. It stimulates the supply of 
 blood, thereby increasing the amount of nourishment to 
 the hair papilla ; the secretions of the sebaceous glands, or 
 natural hair oil, are stimulated and distributed more thor- 
 oughly through the hair; and dust and dandruff are re- 
 moved from the hair and scalp. The hairpins should be 
 removed and the hair ventilated or aired by gentle shaking, 
 assisted by a combing action of the fingers, before the 
 brushing. 
 
46 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 To brush properly the hair remember that it is im- 
 planted at an angle in the scalp, and brush in the direction 
 of the natural slant, from side to side, beginning at the 
 natural center parting and brushing outward and down- 
 ward toward the end of the hair ; in the same manner from 
 the rear of the head brush downward and back. If the 
 riair is long, separate it into small strands and brush it 
 throughout its entire length ; after the hair is gone over in 
 this manner, throw it forward over the face and gently 
 rjrush it at the sides of the face and nape of the neck. 
 Care should be exercised to brush equally the hair over all 
 portions of the head, and with sufficient vigor to stimulate 
 the scalp. 
 
 It is interesting to note that the use of hair brushes is 
 of great antiquity. The original hair brushes were made 
 of small bundles of twigs, stiff fibers, or grasses, bound 
 together at the end ; and such brushes are still to be found 
 among certain primitive races. 
 
 The Comb. 
 
 The comb is an important adjunct of the brush in the 
 care of the hair, and has been used in a crude form from 
 time immemorial. A primitive Lake Dweller's comb 
 found in the Marsh excavations north of the Alps was 
 made from small pointed sticks of box-tree wood, so 
 braided with cord that they held the right distance apart, 
 and were secured in place by diagonally bound strips of 
 wood. 
 
 The comb should have large, widely separated, smooth 
 teeth with round ends, in order to prevent undue pulling 
 of the hair or irritation of the scalp. The material of 
 which a comb is made is not a matter of importance pro- 
 vided the form is correct. The objection to the ordinary 
 metal comb is its improper shape; but it has this advan- 
 
Hygiene of the Hair. 47 
 
 tage, that it can be sterilized by heat without injury. 
 Combs with ill-fitting or ornate silver backs are objec- 
 tionable, since they are prone to entangle or pull the hair, 
 as well as being difficult to sterilize. Celluloid hair combs 
 and pins are dangerous on account of their inflammable 
 nature. Combs should be kept clean by frequent washing 
 in any of the solutions used in cleansing the brush. 
 
 It is bad practice to use a comb of any description on 
 the hair of infants, as it may irritate the scalp or cause an 
 eczema; and crusts or scales should never be combed from 
 the scalp. 
 
 The Proper Use of the Comb. 
 
 With a comb of correct form divide the hair in the 
 median line and part off a small strand which should be 
 held firmly in the hand, or wrapped around the fingers and 
 held between the scalp and the comb to avoid undue trac- 
 tion on the roots of the hair; draw the comb slowly, first 
 through the ends of the hair, then gradually work up 
 toward the roots. This method of combing will untangle 
 any existing snarl instead of bringing it together in a knot. 
 Proceed in this manner, combing small strands in their 
 regular order until the operation is complete. For obvious 
 reasons the hair should be perfectly dry before it is 
 combed. Finally the hair may be arranged in a loose braid 
 or coil, or if one sleeps so quietly that snarls will not result, 
 tied loosely close to the scalp, with the unbound portion 
 spread over the pillow. 
 
 The practice of combing the hair by stroking it to- 
 ward the roots in the process of dressing it, in order that 
 it may appear more fluffy and abundant, is extremely bad 
 practice, as such treatment not only injures the delicate 
 external plates of cuticle which project toward the end of 
 
48 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 the hair, but it also results in tangles and knots, with con- 
 sequent fracture of the hair shaft. 
 
 Hair and scalp that are too dry frequently require the 
 application of a small quantity of olive oil, sweet almond 
 oil, or vaseline, which should be applied to the scalp before 
 the brushing by means of a medicine dropper or by making 
 frequent partings and rubbing into the scalp with the tips 
 of the fingers. 
 
 Hair Pins. 
 
 The material which enters into the composition of 
 hair pins is not important, but the pin itself should be 
 large and smooth with rounded points. The use of rough, 
 sharp metal hair pins not only injures the hair and scalp, 
 but they frequently serve as carriers of contagion. In hair 
 dressing establishments, never permit the use of a hair pin 
 other than your own, unless it is perfectly new. 
 
 Hot Curling Irons. 
 
 Frequent dressing of the hair with the aid of hot 
 curling irons is very injurious. As we have seen, the 
 sebaceous glands supply a natural hair oil, which is poured 
 out into the hair follicle, and serves to keep the scalp, soft 
 and pliable, and the hair smooth and flexible. This oil not 
 only envelopes the hair shaft, but it also penetrates into 
 the interior of the hair. The frequent use of a hot curling 
 iron literally burns up this natural oil, leaving the hair dry 
 and brittle, with split ends and with a greatly lessened 
 vitality. To prevent or correct this condition abolish the 
 curling iron; or if needs must, wrap the iron with white 
 tissue paper which will char if the iron is too hot. Clip 
 off the ends of any split hairs below the cleft, and Rub Into 
 the Scalp a good grade of olive oil, castor oil, or white 
 
Hygiene of the Hair. 49 
 
 vaseline, after which the hair should be thoroughly 
 brushed. 
 
 Hair Cutting. 
 
 Hair cutting in adult life is more a matter of personal 
 taste than necessity. The hair of men may be worn longer 
 or shorter as fancy dictates, since the health of the hair is 
 not affected by cutting if the operation is performed with 
 sharp, smooth scissors. In women the hair is always worn 
 long unless cutting is required as a result of disease. 
 
 Clipping the Hair. 
 
 This treatment is necessary to remove unhealthy split 
 ends of dry or cracked hair, and is beneficial in the treat- 
 ment of falling hair. The hair should be thoroughly 
 shampooed and parted in the middle; then separate a 
 small strand of hair and holding it by the end away from 
 the head twist it into a tight roll, being careful not to cause 
 undue strain on the roots of the hair. Twisting the hair 
 in this manner will cause the split ends to project from the 
 roll, when they may be readily clipped off by the shears. 
 Complete the clipping by cutting off the extreme end of 
 the strand, after which the hair may be coiled and pinned 
 against the side of the head. Proceed in like manner until 
 all the hair has been treated. 
 
 Singeing the Hair. 
 
 The object of singeing the hair is not to shorten it, as 
 is effected by the operation of cutting, but rather, as in 
 clipping, to remove the split ends. The good results 
 obtained by singeing, as frequently described, are nil; if 
 there is any difference of merit between the two methods 
 of removing split ends it is in favor of hair clipping, on the 
 theory that the application of intense heat drys out the 
 natural oil from the hair shaft, thus creating a condition 
 
 4 
 
50 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 which favors the tendency to split and break. The sole 
 advantage of such practice lies in the rapidity with which 
 the operation may be performed. The practice of singeing 
 the hair is founded upon a belief that the hair contains in 
 its central canal a vital fluid which escapes from the free 
 open end of the hair shaft when the hair is cut ; but since 
 such vital fluid does not exist, the theory of singeing is 
 utterly valueless, is based upon utter ignorance of hair 
 structure and growth, and is merely the resurrection of a 
 method practiced during the dark ages. 
 
 To Singe the Hair it should be divided into small 
 twisted strands in the manner described for clipping. The 
 singeing may be done by a special lighted wax taper or by 
 any taper that will answer the purpose; this taper should 
 be moved swiftly and always held in an upright position in 
 order that the size of the blaze may be regulated and the 
 singeing controlled, and to avoid singeing too close to the 
 roots of the hair. After the process is completed, brush 
 and shampoo thoroughly to remove the odor of burnt hair 
 and the burnt ends of the hair. A suitable oil may then be 
 applied if indicated, and the hair dressed as desired. 
 
 Shaving. 
 
 In early times the beard was considered an especial 
 attribute of masculine adornment and virility, and a great 
 deal of care was lavished upon its cultivation. While a 
 heavy beard undoubtedly serves as a means of protection 
 to the throat, it is not now needed; and the luxuriant 
 growth of hair on the face affected by our forefathers is 
 today rarely seen. Smooth shaven faces are the rule, and 
 the element of protection formerly desired has surrendered 
 to the greater demands of hygiene. 
 
 In shaving we need to consider only the arrangement 
 of the hair whorls upon the face and neck, rather than the 
 
Hygiene of the Hair. 51 
 
 actual cutting of the hair itself. The beard should be 
 shaved with due consideration of the direction in which 
 the hair lies, or "shaved with the grain," in order that the 
 cut ends may not become engaged in the skin structure as 
 the result of growth. Too close shaving causes irritation 
 and roughening of the skin. The razor used in shaving 
 should be sharp and cut smoothly, should be drawn with a 
 sliding stroke to avoid pulling, and to utilize fully the cut- 
 ting power of the blade ; pimples containing pus should be 
 cleansed with an antiseptic solution; and any bleeding 
 points should be checked by pressure or heat, rather than 
 by the application of a styptic pencil. After shaving and 
 removing all traces of soap with warm water, cold water 
 should be applied and some antiseptic solution, as the spirit 
 of bay rum, may then be used. Finally the face may be 
 powdered to suit ; or if needed to allay irritation, any oint- 
 ment or lotion required may be applied. The soap used in 
 shaving should be non-irritating and produce a creamy 
 lather; which should be rubbed in so thoroughly as to 
 soften the beard, when the operation of shaving is ren- 
 dered easy. Cleanliness of all utensils used in shaving 
 should be insisted upon. 
 
 The Hair Line. 
 
 The average woman does not realize the subtle influ- 
 ence which the possession of a beautiful hair line exerts 
 upon the features. The growth of hair where the skin of 
 the face and the scalp meet should be preserved by massage 
 along the hair line from the ears to top of forehead, using 
 the tips of the fingers, and by gentle brushing. The use of 
 face creams which clog the follicles, or face bleaches which 
 are especially harmful when rubbed into the hair line, 
 should be avoided. 
 
52 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Mode of Dressing the Hair. 
 
 At times occasion demands that an elaborate coiffure 
 be worn. This does not necessarily entail injury to the 
 hair if proper care be exercised. Ordinarily, any be- 
 coming fashion of wearing the hair is permissible, pro- 
 viding that the mode chosen does not entail injurious 
 twisting or binding of the hair. The simplest way of 
 wearing the hair, such as braiding it or brushing it 
 smoothly back from the forehead, is best; and we do not 
 believe that light switches or coils, if properly worn for a 
 short time upon special occasions, are objectionable. Curl- 
 ing the hair by the use of hot irons, curl papers, or kids, is 
 not recommended ; the best results are obtained by curling 
 it over soft silk, when the hair will be left soft, glossy and 
 flexible. If curling tongs are used they should be wrapped 
 with white tissue paper. This serves the double purpose 
 of showing the char which a too hot iron would produce, 
 as well as protecting the hair from the surface of the 
 naked metal and preventing any stain on the hair that 
 might arise from the use of colored paper. These points 
 are of especial value in the waving of white hair. 
 
 Hair Dressing Parlors and Barber Shops. 
 
 To secure conditions approximating surgical cleanli- 
 ness is impossible in the ordinary hair-dressing establish- 
 ment or barber shop. Patrons can demand, however, clean 
 hands, towels and hygienic surroundings. When possible 
 one should always furnish their own cups and brushes, or 
 brush, comb, and pins, as the case may be. If patrons 
 realized to what an extent contagious local and constitu- 
 tional diseases are spread in unclean and carelessly man- 
 aged parlors and shops, they would not be content until 
 the strictest of sanitary measures were enforced ; or fail- 
 ing that, the functions of these establishments would be 
 
Hygiene of the Hair. 53 
 
 performed in their own home. Patronize only the up-to- 
 date barber or hair dresser who endeavors to conform to 
 the laws of hygiene as a matter of good business, and 
 through proper pride in his establishment. Clean towels 
 should be used but once and then boiled; fresh covers for 
 head-rests should be provided for each individual; fre- 
 quent sterilization of all instruments and utensils used 
 should be practiced; and the cleanliness of the operator 
 should be above reproach. To be successful, the advanced 
 hair dresser or barber of the future will not only have a 
 thorough knowledge of the laws of hygiene, but he will put 
 that knowledge into execution, and capitalize heavily in his 
 business as a result. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE SHAMPOO. 
 
 The shampoo is a process of washing thoroughly the 
 hair and scalp with the fingers or a soft brush, using either 
 soap or a saponaceous preparation for the more perfect 
 cleansing. 
 
 Beautiful Hair is Not the Only Result of 
 Proper Care, but it is the First; and a Shampoo 
 Properly Given is One of the Most Important 
 Hygienic Factors in Preserving or Acquiring It. 
 
 The results to be obtained from the shampoo are manifold ; 
 all superfluous oil or foreign matter which renders the hair 
 sticky and lustreless should be washed away; the scalp 
 should be thoroughly cleansed in order that the highest de- 
 gree of vitality not only of the skin, but of the underlying 
 structures of the scalp, may be maintained; all foreign 
 matter which may clog the mouths of the sweat glands 
 and hair follicles should be removed, else the vitality of the 
 hair will be impaired as a result of the damming up of the 
 mouths of the hair follicles, with a resultant condition 
 which affects directly the growth of the hair itself. The 
 sweat glands are excretory organs and their function must 
 not be interfered with else diseases ranging in severity 
 from a slight inflammation to a violent eczema may result. 
 The effects of a thorough shampoo are more than local, as 
 it not only benefits the hair and scalp, but also produces 
 a general feeling of freshness and well being. 
 
 (54) 
 
The Shampoo. 55 
 
 Shampoo Mixtures. 
 
 The best shampoo mixture is made with pure soap 
 and soft water as a base. Hard water should never be 
 used in a shampoo, as the lime and sometimes iron con- 
 tained in it will* be deposited on the hair shaft, leaving the 
 latter harsh; and on white hair may result in discolored 
 streaks. The soap should be shaved into fine particles and 
 sufficient boiling water poured over it to make a solution 
 the consistency of a thin syrup ; or a cake of soap be placed 
 in a vessel, a pint of boiling water added and the mixture 
 agitated until a thick lather is formed. The following will 
 be found a good shampoo mixture: Shave fine one cake 
 of Castile soap, pour over it three quarts of boiling water 
 and allow to stand, applying gentle heat until the soap is 
 entirely dissolved; then cool and bottle for future use. 
 The following shampoo liquid is frequently used by hair 
 dressers and barbers : One-half pound of Cochin Castile, 
 one tablespoonful of Borax, one gallon of water. Boil 
 until soap is dissolved, then cool and bottle for future use. 
 The white of an egg beaten up and added to the shampoo 
 solution will assist in giving the hair a soft gloss. If the 
 hair does not contain much oil or dust, a mixture of two 
 or three eggs beaten up in soft water will be sufficient to 
 cleanse it, after which it should be thoroughly rinsed. 
 
 Application of Shampoo Mixtures. 
 
 To apply the shampoo, moisten the hair and scalp 
 with warm water — never use cold — and massage the 
 solution into the scalp with the ends of the fingers until 
 the scalp is thoroughly cleansed; if the hair is long, satu- 
 rate it with the shampoo mixture and proceed to wash it 
 downward from the roots to the end by rubbing it between 
 the palms. The long, thin ends of the hair may be 
 doubled, always exercising care to prevent tangling and 
 
56 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 snarling. Complete the process by rinsing in warm soft 
 water applied by means of a bath spray, or by holding 
 the head over a basin and pouring the warm water over 
 the scalp and hair, assisting the rinsing process by a 
 gentle rubbing with the hands. Never rub the hair or 
 scalp with a cake of coap; use a shampoo mixture and 
 make a good lather, rubbing the fingers back and forth, 
 and avoiding circular motions as this will cause tangles, 
 especially if the hair is long. Do not finish the rinsing 
 process with water sufficiently cold to chill as is sometimes 
 advocated. As a result of such practice a cold in the head 
 may result, especially among those who have a catarrhal 
 tendency. Very cold water is advocated on the ground that 
 it brings the blood to the scalp; but since this object is at- 
 tained by the massage, the application serves no good 
 purpose and may result in harm. 
 
 It is imperative that the hair and scalp be entirely 
 freed from soap, and the process of rinsing must be re- 
 peated as many times as is necessary to accomplish this 
 purpose. To the final rinse water a little acetic acid or 
 lemon juice is sometimes added with benefit. The hair 
 and scalp should then be thoroughly dried in front of an 
 open fire or in the sunlight, by the use of soft, warm tow- 
 els, and by occasionally shaking and passing the spread 
 fingers through the hair. A gentle fanning may be used 
 to hasten the drying, but the use of a hot blast from an 
 electric blower is harmful. Should the scalp and hair be 
 dry and harsh, the application of a bland oil to replace the 
 natural oil which has been removed by washing will be of 
 benefit. This may be supplied by the addition of a small 
 quantity of sweet almond oil to the last rinse water; or 
 pure olive oil, pure castor oil, sweet almond oil, any medi- 
 cated ointment, or white sterile vaseline may be rubbed 
 into the scalp. If oil is used it is best applied with the 
 
The Shampoo. 57 
 
 aid of a medicine dropper ; if vaseline or a medicated oint- 
 ment is used the hair should be parted at short intervals 
 and the preparation rubbed into the scalp with the finger 
 tips; the hair should then be thoroughly brushed with a 
 clean brush in order to restore tone and to distribute the 
 oil through the hair. 
 
 The Frequency of the Shampoo. 
 
 The frequency of the shampoo depends entirely upon 
 the condition of the hair and scalp; if very oily or much 
 exposed to dust and dirt the shampoo should be given as 
 frequently as is necessary to keep them clean. This may 
 require a shampoo every week, but ordinarily a shampoo 
 every third or fourth week is sufficient. Men who are 
 exposed to dust and dirt should shampoo more frequently 
 than women whose hair is long, less exposed to contam- 
 ination, and usually better protected than the hair of men. 
 When using tonics or other medicinal preparations on the 
 scalp, the hair and scalp should be shampooed at least once 
 every two weeks ; while hair that is abnormally dry should 
 not be washed with soap and water except at long inter- 
 vals — afterward applying to the scalp with medicine 
 dropper a little sweet almond oil or castor oil diluted with 
 20% of alcohol. 
 
 Apparent Loss of Hair Due to the Shampoo. 
 
 One may experience a sense of shock when they see 
 the large amount of hair that may have been washed from 
 the scalp in the course of a shampoo ; but this is hair that 
 should be removed since it is dead hair, and should be 
 replaced by a growth of new hair. The hair so shed is not 
 lost by reason of the shampoo, but in spite of the shampoo, 
 since the shampoo properly given will correct the very 
 conditions which are responsible for its fall. 
 
58 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 The Addition of Chemicals to the Shampoo. 
 
 Care should be observed in the addition to the 
 shampoo of various chemicals advocated by many hair 
 dressers. Carbonate of Soda in the proportion of a tea- 
 spoonful to a pint of water may prove of benefit if the 
 hair and scalp is very oily, or if the hair is being prepared 
 for the application of a dye. Ammonia is also frequently 
 used to free the hair and scalp from oil; but the too fre- 
 quent use of these drugs will lighten the color of brown 
 and blonde hair, and leave it dry and brittle. Chemicals 
 should not be added to a shampoo mixture intended for 
 use on white hair, as special treatment is necessary, the 
 directions for which are given in the chapter devoted to 
 that subject. 
 
 The Dry Shampoo. 
 
 Originally a "dry shampoo" referred to the use of a 
 fine powder composed of an inert substance of which pow- 
 dered corn meal or powdered orris root are good ex- 
 amples. Later liquid dry shampoos containing ingre- 
 dients of a volatile nature came into existence, and the 
 term "dry shampoo" is applied to them on account of their 
 rapid drying properties. Each variety has special indica- 
 tions for its use, and may be employed alone or in conjunc- 
 tion with one another. The dry shampoo is advised when 
 for any reason the employment of an ordinary shampoo is 
 harmful. In the treatment of white hair, for those who 
 possess an oily scalp that does not need a regular sham- 
 poo, for those whose scalp secretes too little oil and is 
 harsh and dry with faded, brittle hair, or for those who 
 take cold easily, the dry shampoo may be recommended. 
 
The Shampoo. 59 
 
 dry shampoo for oily hair. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 Sprinkle hair with corn meal. This will be found 
 beneficial as it absorbs the oil and removes dirt. The 
 preparation should be brushed out with a stiff brush. 
 White corn meal is the best for all general purposes. 
 
 3 No. 2. 
 
 Corn meal, one part ; 
 Powdered orris root, one part. 
 
 LIQUID AND POWDER DRY SHAMPOO FOR OILY HAIR. 
 
 Moisten the scalp and hair with alcohol or Eau de 
 Cologne, after which they should be thoroughly dried by 
 passing the spread fingers through the hair or with a soft 
 towel. Then part the hair in small strands, and with the 
 dry shampoo powder in a perforated can, sift the powder 
 onto the scalp, and gently massage for a few minutes; 
 then thoroughly brush out using a stiff brush. This treat- 
 ment will not only serve to remove all superfluous oil and 
 foreign matter, but will render the hair soft, lustrous and 
 fluffy. If the hair contains much oil when the powder is 
 applied, some difficulty may be experienced in removing it. 
 
 The following preparation makes a refined shampoo 
 powder. It should be used as the preceding. 
 
 5 No. 3. 
 
 Powdered orris root I ounce 
 
 Talcum i^ ounces 
 
 Starch 2 ounces 
 
 Oil of Lemon 6 drops 
 
 Oil of Bergamot 8 drops 
 
 Oil of Neroli 4 drops 
 
 Mix the powders and add the oils. 
 
60 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 The following dry liquid shampoo will be found most 
 excellent for use upon oily hair when for any reason it is 
 best to avoid a regular shampoo. The hair and scalp 
 should be kept in good condition by requent ventilation, 
 and by brushing the hair and scalp to remove all foreign 
 matter. The Hair should be parted in small strands and 
 the mixture applied to the scalp with a soft sponge. 
 
 DRY LIQUID SHAMPOO. 
 
 5 No. 4. 
 
 Chloroform 2 drams 
 
 Eau de Cologne . . 2 ounces 
 
 Mix and apply. 
 
 Manipulate the scalp and hair with the fingers until 
 dry, and follow with a thorough brushing. 
 
 Special Shampoo Mixtures. 
 
 The use of tgg in the shampoo mixture is advocated 
 when the scalp is thin and dry and the hair is brittle and 
 rapidly falling. 
 
 5 No. 5. 
 
 Hot water I pint 
 
 Oil of sweet almonds 20 drops 
 
 Yolk of one egg. 
 
 Perfume to suit 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Saturate the hair and scalp with the shampoo mixture 
 and gently massage into scalp with finger tips; then re- 
 move all traces of same by repeated rinsings with warm 
 water and dry with soft warm towels. 
 
 This procedure will be found very refreshing and 
 beneficial to the scalp and will leave the hair in a beautiful 
 fluffy condition. 
 
The Shampoo. 61 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 ^ LIQUID EGG SHAMPOO. 
 
 White of one egg. 
 
 Borax i ounce 
 
 Glycerine 2 drams 
 
 Bay rum 4 o^ces 
 
 Water 5 ounces 
 
 Beat the egg and dissolve in a portion of the water ; 
 dissolve borax in remainder of water. Mix all the ingre- 
 dients and strain. 
 
 Use as the preceding. 
 
 The following shampoo is a true Egg Julep, and has 
 found much favor in the fashionable English hair- 
 dressing establishments : 
 
 * No. 7. 
 
 Egg yolk 2 fluid ounces 
 
 Chloroform water (saturated) 2 fluid ounces 
 
 Triturate thoroughly and add : 
 
 Concentrated infusion of Quillaja I ounce 
 
 Salicylic acid 5 grains 
 
 Camphor io grains 
 
 Borax 25 grains 
 
 Eau de Cologne 3 fluid ounces 
 
 Saturated Chloroform water, enough to make 1 pint. 
 Mix thoroughly and strain through fine muslin cloth. 
 
 Directions: Thoroughly wet the hair with warm 
 soft water and pour on one or two tablespoonfuls of the 
 julep. Rub until a lather forms, then remove all traces of 
 shampoo mixture by rinsing with warm water; and dry. 
 After using this preparation the hair is left soft and 
 pliant. 
 
62 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 8. 
 £ imitation egg julep. 
 
 - Pure castile soap (inshavings) I ounce 
 
 Water of Ammonia I fluid ounce 
 
 lavender water I ounce 
 
 Alcohol 20% solution, enough to make. . . I pint 
 Mix. Pirections : Use as an ordinary shampoo. 
 
 Ti3* 3HAMP00 LIQUID. 
 
 The use of tar as a scalp application is indorsed by 
 many specialists. The objeO'on to its use is its disagree- 
 able odor; but this objection is largely overcome when it is 
 used in the form of a shampoo, of which the following is 
 one of the best : 
 
 B No. 9. 
 
 Green or soft soap ij ounces 
 
 Potassium carbonate 2 drams 
 
 Oil of tar 15 drops 
 
 Alcohol 2 \ ounces 
 
 Water 8 ounces 
 
 Mix, let stand a few days and filter. 
 
 TONIC LIQUID SHAMPOO. 
 
 The following liquid tonic shampoo will be found 
 most excellent. It has cleansing, stimulating, and anti- 
 septic properties: 
 
 ^ No. 10. 
 
 Tincture Quillaja 5 ounces 
 
 Cologne water 2. ounces 
 
 Glycerine 1 ounce 
 
 Fluid extract of Jaborandi 2 ounces 
 
 Quinine Sulphate . 20 grains 
 
 Orange flower water, enough to make 1 pint 
 
The Shampoo. 63 
 
 Mix the cologne, flower water and tincture Quillaja; 
 dissolve the quinine in the mixture, add the remaining in- 
 gredients and filter. Apply as an ordinary shampoo. 
 
 SPECIAL SHAMPOO FOR INFLAMED, ITCHING SCALP. 
 
 Shampoo hair and scalp in regular manner and while 
 still moist saturate with lemon juice which should be 
 allowed to dry; then apply the following mixture for ten 
 minutes to the hair and scalp. One application is usually 
 sufficient to effect a cure. 
 
 5 No. 11. 
 
 Water i pint 
 
 Sweet almond oil 15 drops 
 
 Spirits of Rosemary '. 20 drops 
 
 Yolk of one egg. 
 Mix. 
 
 This should be applied with gentle massage and the 
 hair and scalp then rinsed in warm water and dried. ,If 
 frequently applied, this treatment will lighten the color of 
 brown, chestnut or blonde hair. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 SCALP MASSAGE. 
 
 Beautiful Hair is Dependent Upon a Knowledge and 
 Correct Practice of the Laws of Hygiene of the Hair and 
 Scalp, With the Use of Proper Medicinal Preparations 
 When Such Are Indicated. This Knowledge Does Not 
 Come Intelligently of Itself, Nor Correctly From Ordinary 
 Everyday Sources. 
 
 At the Present Time Every Line of Human Endeavor 
 Has an Efficiency expert — One Who Studies Out the 
 Best Way of Doing Things. The Success Achieved, How- 
 ever, Depends Not Only on Knowing Hozv to Do Things, 
 but Also Upon the Mental and Physical Ability to Put 
 That Knowledge Into Practice. 
 
 The comparative shallow depth of the hair follicle, 
 the angle in which the hair shaft is implanted in it, and 
 the peculiar attachment of the hair bulb to the delicate 
 hair papilla, make a proper method of massage imperative. 
 A scalp properly massaged by the methods to be described 
 is greatly benefited. Massage given by allowing the finger 
 tips to slide about over the scalp in a circular motion, or 
 any practice that causes undue strain upon the delicate 
 hair organs, not only injures the hair growth, but hastens 
 the advent of gray hair by interfering with the vitality of 
 the cells through which the natural coloring matter is 
 conveyed to the hair shaft. 
 
 Scalp Massage is a method of rubbing, kneading, 
 or stroking the scalp with the hands or some instrument, 
 for the purpose of increasing the blood supply and to 
 
 (64) 
 
Scalp Massage. 65 
 
 hasten the elimination of those waste products which have 
 not been washed away by the cleansing action of the 
 shampoo, and which may clog the hair follicles. 
 
 Stimulated by massage the arteries furnish a richer 
 supply of blood to the hair papilla and directly increase 
 hair growth. The under-lying connective tissue which con- 
 tains the pigment carrying cells, is thickened and strength- 
 ened, thereby augmenting the deposit of pigment and 
 preserving the natural color of the hair. The flow of 
 sebum, or the secretion of the sebaceous glands, is in- 
 creased, so that more natural oil is furnished to the hair 
 and scalp, supplying in greater abundance the natural 
 agent which renders the hair soft, smooth and flexible. 
 The entire scalp becomes thicker and more freely movable 
 over the skull, thus affording more favorable soil for 
 hair cultivation. At the same time, the elimination of 
 waste products is hastened through the agency of the 
 venous circulation and the sweat glands. 
 
 Many ingenious mechanical instruments have been 
 devised for massaging the scalp. Several varieties of 
 vibrators, each with claims of special features, are to be 
 found in numberless barber shops and hair-dressing par- 
 lors. Vacuum caps which are said to promote the flow of 
 blood to the scalp through suction, and electrical appara- 
 tuses which supply the high frequency current, or the 
 violet rays for application to the scalp, have their advo- 
 cates. Properly used, they are each productive of some 
 good ; but an experience with practically all of the mechan- 
 ical agents used in massaging the scalp leads us to prefer 
 the use of the bare hands as the most effective agent. 
 
 To Properly Massage the Scalp, place firmly the 
 palms of the hands upon the sides of the head with the 
 
 5 
 
66 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 fingers slightly separated one from another, and with 
 sufficient distance between the ends of the fingers of the 
 two hands to permit a fold of scalp being pinched up when 
 the hands are shoved together. This manner of pinching 
 up successive folds of the scalp should be repeated con- 
 tinuously until the entire scalp surface is reddened and 
 warmed. Since the object of massage is scalp stimulation, 
 the following method may be used alone or alternated with 
 the preceding: With the fingers of both hands clasped 
 over the top of the head and pressed firmly against the 
 scalp, rotate it from side to side and forward and back- 
 ward, changing the position of the hands as needed to 
 treat the entire scalp; and massage a sufficient length of 
 time to produce a tingling sensation. When practicing 
 massage do not permit the hands to slip from their posi- 
 tion on the scalp as undue strain or pulling upon the hair 
 roots will result in harm. A very gentle, pleasing massage 
 effect can be achieved by passing the spread fingers of each 
 hand close up along the sides and over the top of the head, 
 and exerting gentle traction upon the hair when moving 
 the hands outward toward the ends. This serves not only 
 to mildly stimulate the scalp structures, but also aereates 
 rthe hair and scalp. Massage applied but once each week 
 or ten days is of no practical benefit. To be effective, it 
 snust be practiced for a period of thirty minutes, three or 
 more times a week if given by a professional masseur. 
 The best results however can be secured by massage self- 
 administered, if the scalp is treated for ten minutes daily 
 in the manner described. Should the scalp be thin and 
 tightly bound to the skull, the application of hot towels to 
 relax it before massage is given will prove of great 
 assistance. 
 
Scalp Massage. 67 
 
 Massage of the Scalp as a Remedy for Falling Hair 
 is Valuable Only When the Scalp is Free From Dandruff 
 or Other Diseased Conditions. Should Dandruff or Dis- 
 ease be Present, a Massage May Aggravate Any Existing 
 Unhealthy Condition and Spread the Disease Over the 
 Entire Scalp. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 HAIR CURLING AND HAIR STRAIGHTENING. 
 
 Crisp curling hair has always: been regarded with the 
 utmost favor by those who desire to possess beautiful hair, 
 and the curling locks of man or maiden have inspired 
 paeans of praise in song and story throughout the ages. 
 To satisfy the desire of that great multitude upon whom 
 Nature has not seen fit to bestow naturally curling hair, 
 a harmless method to achieve that desired end has long 
 been sought. Countless medicinal agents, and a mul- 
 titude of mechanical devices used either alone or in 
 combination with moist heat or electricity, have been 
 recommended. It is undoubtedly true that the hair wave 
 produced by means of mechanical devices is more lasting 
 than can be secured by medicinal agents, yet we do not 
 recommend their use as the employment of such devices 
 results in permanent injury to the hair; although the in- 
 jurious effects are not apparent until after a lapse of time. 
 Even the so-called permanent curling or waving is not 
 permanent in the strict sense of the word. It has been our 
 desire to supply harmless methods of curling the hair ; and 
 while the curling effect is not permanent, the wave is re- 
 tained for a considerable period of time and no injurious 
 consequences result. There are numerous hair-curling 
 fluids advertised, and many of them are extremely 
 harmful. Paris hair dressers use a preparation known as 
 "Secretage" which is advertised to permanently curl the 
 hair. It is composed of a solution of mercury and nitric 
 acid diluted with water. A somewhat similar preparation 
 is employed by fur dealers in the treatment of hair used 
 
 (68) 
 
Hair Curling and Hair Straightening. 69 
 
 in the making of fur coats, collars, muffs, etc. These pow- 
 erful preparations should never be used as they may 
 practically ruin a fine head of hair. The following prep- 
 arations are of a mucilaginous, alkaline, or resinous char- 
 acter ; and when applied hold the hair in curl. They can be 
 used without fear of danger, and their use will be found 
 very satisfactory. After applying, the hair should be put 
 up in curl papers or kids ; or the effect may be made more 
 permanent by the use of the curling tongs heated suffi- 
 ciently to add permanence to the curl without injuring the 
 hair. 
 
 Hair Curling Liquid. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 £ FOR KEEPING THE HAIR IN CURL. 
 
 Powdered Borax ■. .. 4 drams 
 
 Gum Arabic 18 grains 
 
 Spirits of Camphor 3 drams 
 
 Water 8 ounces 
 
 Dissolve the solids in warm water, cool and add the 
 camphor. Apply freely to the hair and roll in papers. 
 Dry. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 ^ FOR CURLING WITHOUT PAPERS. 
 
 Sodium Bicarbonate 1 dram 
 
 Borax 1 dram 
 
 Cologne Water 4 drams 
 
 Alcohol 4 drams 
 
 Tincture Cochineal 2 drams 
 
 Water 6 ounces 
 
 Dissolve the soda and borax in the water, add other in- 
 gredients and strain. The addition of 5 grains of Fuchsin 
 will impart a beautiful red color. 
 
70 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 To apply, moisten the hair thoroughly and the hair 
 will curl upon drying. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 The following preparation will be found very effi- 
 cient, and its perfume is delicate and pleasing : 
 
 Ammonium Chloride 30 grains 
 
 Potassium Carbonate , ■§ dram 
 
 Extract of Jassamine 1 dram 
 
 Extract of White Rose 1 dram 
 
 Glycerine 1 dram 
 
 Alcohol 90% , . . . 4 drams 
 
 Powdered Tragacanth 30 grains 
 
 Water 9 ounces 
 
 Triturate the tragacanth thoroughly with the alco- 
 hol ; then add sufficient water and the glycerine to make a 
 mucilage; mix in the perfume, and finally the remaining 
 ingredients dissolved in the remainder of the water. Five 
 grains of Fuchsin added to this prescription will produce 
 a beautiful red color. 
 
 Directions for Use : Moisten the hair, after which 
 it should be adjusted loosely when it will curl on drying. 
 A more pronounced curl may be secured if the hair is put 
 up in papers or kids ; and the process of drying is hastened 
 by the use of a curling iron slightly heated. 
 
 5 No. 4. 
 
 Carbonate of Potash 1 dram 
 
 Water of Ammonia .' . 2 drams 
 
 Alcohol , 4 drams 
 
 Fuchsin 4 grains 
 
 Rose Water 9 fl. ounces 
 
 Mix and apply as in the preceding prescription. 
 
Hair Curling and Hair Straightening. 71 
 
 Kinky Hair. 
 
 Kinky hair is due to a flattening and twisting of the 
 hair, which causes the hair shaft to assume a sharply bent 
 form. It is manifestly impossible to make the hair per- 
 manently straight unless the hair shaft is perfectly round 
 and smooth. While it is not possible to remove the tend- 
 ency of the hair to kink, we believe the continued applica- 
 tion of the following preparation will materially aid in 
 straightening it. 
 
 Beef Suet 4 ounces 
 
 Yellow wax 4 drams 
 
 Castor oil 4 drams 
 
 Benzoic acid 3 grains 
 
 Oil of Lemon 15 drops 
 
 Oil of Cassia 4 drops 
 
 Mix the suet and wax, add the castor oil and acid; 
 slightly cool the mixture and incorporate the other oils. 
 
 Directions for Use: Rub preparation into scalp 
 thoroughly with finger tips, after which the hair should be 
 vigorously brushed. 
 
 (This preparation is especially adapted for use by 
 colored people.) 
 
 Kinky hair is also straightened in the following man- 
 ner: The hair should be shampooed and thoroughly 
 dried. Beginning at the top of the head, separate a small 
 strand of hair and after thoroughly saturating it with a 
 good quality of hair oil, take a pressing iron which has 
 been heated to the proper temperature and close it on the 
 strand as close as possible to the scalp. Insert a comb 
 in the hair a short distance from the pressing iron in 
 order to prevent the hair from tangling, then draw the 
 
72 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 iron slowly toward the end of the strand. Proceed in like 
 manner until all the hair has been treated. Care should 
 be exercised that the iron is not heated sufficiently to burn 
 the hair. This process, which will leave the hair with a 
 slight wave, should be repeated as often as is necessary 
 to produce the desired result. 
 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 HYGIENE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP OF CHILDREN. 
 
 Eighty- five per cent of Alopecia Praematura or Pre- 
 mature Loss of Hair before the Age of Forty- five years 
 is due to Ignorance or Neglect of the Laws of Hygiene, 
 or to Improper Care of the Hair and Scalp of Children 
 before the age of Puberty. A realization of this startling 
 fact and what its future meaning is to one's boy or girl 
 should awaken every parent to the necessity of a personal 
 supervision of the hygiene of the children's hair and scalp 
 if they would insure to them a healthy, attractive head of 
 hair in later life. If you want your children to possess 
 beautiful hair, give it your attention during their child- 
 hood. See that their scalp is kept clean and in a healthy 
 condition ; instruct them in the right way to brush, sham- 
 poo and massage the scalp and hair, so that in later years 
 you will be rewarded by their gratitude, and your chil- 
 dren will possess luxuriant, healthy hair. Every normal 
 child comes into the world with a rudimentary but abun- 
 dant growth of hair ; and to conserve and foster this val- 
 uable physical asset is the duty of every parent. From 
 the Time of Birth, Hair Health Should be Promoted; not 
 by the Indiscriminate Application of Lotions and Oint- 
 ments to the Hair and Scalp that is Healthy, but by At- 
 tending Promptly to the Slight Hair Needs as they Arise. 
 Remember that Medication is not Required unless to 
 Meet Special Conditions. The laws of hygiene should be 
 observed and the proper knowledge that will enable the 
 child to care for its own hair should be imparted. Pro- 
 vide your child with a brush and comb for its individual 
 
 (73) 
 
74 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 use and teach it to keep them clean. The average mother 
 gives her child's hair a periodical wash and thinks her 
 obligation ends there, when in reality this is a very small 
 part of her duties. There is a correct way to wash or 
 shampoo the hair, and the correct way of so doing should 
 invariably be followed. Do not Permit Frequent Wetting 
 of the Hair in Order that it may Lie Smooth when Brushed; 
 or Permit the Indiscriminate use of Water on the Hair 
 and Scalp for any Reason. One of the causes of early 
 baldness results from the practice of frequently wetting 
 the hair without perfect drying; and is due to the fact 
 that water makes an emulsion with the scales of the skin 
 and with the sebum, which hardens and plugs up the 
 mouths of the hair follicles; thus sealing up those secre- 
 tions in the scalp which should be thrown off, and result- 
 ing in a loss of hair vitality. Much attention is paid by 
 parents to the care of the teeth of their children and right- 
 fully so; but the importance of healthy hair and scalp, 
 when considered from a hygienic as well as cosmetic point 
 of view, is totally neglected or entirely undreamed of. 
 Explain to your child the danger of contracting scalp dis- 
 ease by wearing other children's hats and point out the 
 benefits of massage, following the method used in mas- 
 saging the scalps of adults. 
 
 If the future human race is to be adorned with 
 beautiful, luxuriant hair, intelligent supervision should be 
 practiced from infancy. In most instances this super- 
 vision will consist merely in prohibiting certain injurious 
 practices — such as too frequent wetting with insufficient 
 drying of the hair — rather than the application of me- 
 dicinal preparations which are not indicated. 
 
 -j 
 
Hair and Scalp of Children. 75 
 
 The Shampoo. 
 
 At the time of birth the body of a new born child is 
 covered by a sebaceous deposit which is more difficult of 
 removal from the hair and scalp than from other parts 
 of the body; hence the necessity for the first shampoo 
 which should be thoroughly cleansing in its action. Prop- 
 erly performed it serves as an insurance against various 
 inflammatory diseases of the hair and scalp which might 
 lead to a serious marring of hair beauty in after life. 
 This is best accomplished by saturating the scalp with 
 oil of sweet almonds, olive oil, white sterile vaseline, or 
 any non-irritating oil of which these are good examples. 
 Massage the scalp gently with the oil, after which it 
 it should be thoroughly washed, using a pure soap and 
 warm soft water. One such treatment is usually sufficient 
 to remove all foreign matter from the hair and scalp; 
 but if they are not left entirely clean by the first 
 shampoo, the process should be repeated daily until the 
 desired results are obtained. The application of a small 
 amount of oil until such time as the scalp is covered with 
 a protective growth of hair, is advisable to aid in main- 
 taining the proper warmth of the head. For older chil- 
 dren a shampoo once every two or three weeks is usually 
 sufficient to keep the hair and scalp in good con- 
 dition. It should be prepared and applied the same as 
 for an adult. 
 
 The Brush and Comb. 
 
 When the hair has attained an appreciable growth, 
 parents should be particular to provide each child with a 
 brush for its exclusive use. Many cases of hair and scalp 
 disease which result in baldness in later life are due to the 
 transmission of disease by means of the family hair brush 
 which had been used upon the scalp of the child. The 
 
76 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 brush best adapted for the care of the hair and scalp of 
 children should have long, soft bristles which would per- 
 mit only of a gentle cleansing and mild stimulation of the 
 scalp. The correct method of brushing the hair is the 
 same for children as for adults, and has been fully de- 
 scribed. 
 
 The Use of a Comb in caring for the hair of in- 
 fants is unnecessary unless to meet the requirements of 
 some rare special condition. The routine employment of 
 a fine toothed comb may irritate the scalp and cause an 
 eczema, while it serves no purpose not obtained by the use 
 of a brush. Under no circumstances should crusts or 
 scales be removed with a comb. If scales or crusts are 
 present, soften them with oil and remove by washing. In 
 older children a comb of proper form may be permitted. 
 The hair of the small child should not be artificially 
 curled, but worn straight and loose. 
 
 Hair Cutting. 
 
 In many cases the only hair cutting required will be 
 the clipping of the ends of the hair, as short cutting has a 
 tendency to coarsen the hair texture and should not be re- 
 sorted to except for special reasons. For hygienic rea- 
 sons it is sometimes best to keep the hair of children 
 short until they have reached the age when they can in- 
 telligently perform the ordinary services which the scalp 
 and hair health and growth demand; but after that period 
 the hair of girls should be allowed to grow, providing that 
 under the changed conditions the rules of hygiene can be 
 observed. While the texture of the hair naturally becomes 
 coarser and the color deepens with age, yet we believe that 
 frequent cutting has a tendency to hasten these changes; 
 and the coarser texture, for which frequent cutting is 
 partly responsible, is readily seen on the face in the ensu- 
 
Hair and Scalp of Children. 77 
 
 ing change of fine, downy hair to stiff, thick beard — the 
 result of shaving. 
 
 The scalps of children are affected by the same con- 
 ditions that produce the loss or disorders of hair in adults. 
 The scalp should be carefully searched for signs of dan- 
 druff, as it is of even greater importance to correct dis- 
 eased conditions when occurring at an early age than at a 
 later period of life. Oil should be applied if needed to 
 correct abnormal dryness, or an excess of oil should be 
 remedied if conditions warrant. If the ends of the hair 
 are split they should be cut off below the cleft, and a sys- 
 tematic course of medication with massage should be 
 instituted. When the hair becomes strong and vigorous 
 the rules of hygiene as laid down for adults should be 
 followed. 
 
 Eyebrows and Lashes. 
 
 Particular attention should be paid to the cosmetic 
 care of the eyebrows and lashes of children. While dyes 
 or stains should not be used, every means to insure brows 
 and lashes of correct form and abundant growth should 
 be adopted. If needed, stimulating hair oils should be 
 applied, and the brows thoroughly massaged. Any ex- 
 isting irregular growth of hair should be corrected and 
 trained to occupy its proper form and position after the 
 method laid down for adults as described in the special 
 chapter devoted to The Care of the Brows and Lashes. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 HYGIENE OF WHITE HAIR. 
 
 White hair is not necessarily the result of, nor the 
 accompaniment of age; rather it is one of its compensa- 
 tions. It is a natural law that the color of the hair must 
 match the color of the skin and usually the color of the 
 eyes; and whilst the transition from colored to uncolored 
 hair is in progress, we find accompanying this change a 
 softening of the facial features, a finer texture of the skin, 
 and a change in shade of the complexion and eyes to har- 
 monize with the changing color of the hair. As a direct 
 result a spirituelle expression of the face is created which 
 is enhanced by a framework of softly waved masses of 
 white hair; and upon those whom the passing years have 
 gently caressed it confers an atmosphere of refined beauty 
 and distinction that no other shade of hair can impart. 
 
 While the possession of beautiful white hair is re- 
 sponsible for this new charm, it exacts as penalties for the 
 proper preservation of its more delicate shade, greater care 
 and attention than is demanded from the possessor of 
 colored hair. More consideration should be exercised in 
 the giving of massage, shampoos, and other details of 
 hygiene, and keener discrimination exercised in the choice 
 of scalp and hair preparations; but such care and dis- 
 crimination does not mean neglect by withholding the de- 
 mands of hygiene when needed, for fear of entailing in- 
 jury. 
 
 The fact that hair has turned white does not imply 
 that it has lost its vigor or that it may not be of luxuriant 
 growth. While we are accustomed to believe that white 
 
 (78) 
 
Hygiene of White Hair. 79 
 
 hair indicates the laying on of the ravaging hand of time, 
 this belief like many others is not founded on physiological 
 facts. The whitening of the hair indicates that a change 
 in the chemical constituents and texture of the hair shaft 
 has occurred, but not necessarily a lessening of the blood 
 supply which is mainly responsible for the maintenance 
 of hair vitality. Changes due to the lapse of time natur- 
 ally occur in the hair and scalp as in the other structures 
 of the body ; but nature provides as compensation certain 
 rewards for the change of color, in order that nature's bal- 
 ance may be preserved. 
 
 General Suggestions. 
 
 One must not forget that white hair requires care and 
 nourishment to maintain its health and vigor; and that 
 the proper treatment of white hair is based upon common 
 sense. To acquire or maintain its greatest beauty white 
 hair must be kept entirely free from foreign matter, with 
 no hint of the yellowish tinge so frequently seen and which 
 is usually the result of improper treatment. The greatest 
 care in giving the shampoo is necessary in order that all 
 waste products may be eliminated and that the color may 
 not be dulled by the use of ill advised cleansing prepara- 
 tions, or the hair broken through rough handling. Only 
 the purest white soap should be used in preparing the 
 shampoo mixture, and the few hair or scalp lotions suit- 
 able for its preservation should be selected with the great- 
 est care. Massage properly given is imperative in order 
 that the vitality of the scalp be maintained so that the hair 
 may receive sufficient nourishment to maintain vigorous 
 health. Therefore, stimulate the blood supply to the hair 
 roots by massaging the scalp, employing the correct meth- 
 ods described under "Massage" ; using care of course, but 
 Massage the Sealp! 
 
80 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 The larger portion of mineral matter found in white 
 hair, together with the presence of the numerous cellular 
 air spaces found in the hair shaft, render white hair more 
 brittle than colored hair and explain why it requires more 
 careful handling when being dressed or shampooed. 
 Avoid twisting or sharply bending the hair or inflicting 
 violence of any nature when using the brush and comb; 
 and these articles must be kept absolutely clean of foreign 
 matter which would soil the hair and mar its lustre. When 
 shampooing be particular to avoid the use of hard water, 
 or water that contains lime or iron, as the lime will be 
 deposited on the hair and render it dull and lustreless, 
 while the presence of iron will cause it to appear stained 
 or streaked. Soft water that has been strained, or dis- 
 tilled water, should be used if the best results are to be 
 obtained. 
 
 Choice of Soaps. 
 
 There is not the wide latitude in the choice of soaps 
 used in shampooing white hair that there is in cleansing 
 colored hair. The ideal soap is pure and absolutely free 
 from coloring matter of any description. A pure white 
 castile soap is very good; but as there are many kinds 
 of castile soap, and as not all of them are absolutely white 
 or pure, one should obtain a guaranteed article. The use 
 of an inferior or tinted soap may ruin the appearance of 
 beautiful white hair by leaving it gummy, with slightly 
 discolored streaks or patches, and a dulling of the lustre 
 to which is due in great part its beauty. 
 
 The Shampoo Mixture. 
 
 The best shampoo mixture is of the consistency of a 
 thin paste and is made by shaving the selected soap and 
 dissolving it in hot water. This can be used alone ; or if 
 
Hygiene of White Hair. 81 
 
 desired the whites of two eggs may be added to one-half 
 pint of the soap solution and well beaten up; the latter 
 making an ideal shampoo mixture for white hair. 
 
 To apply, wet the scalp and hair with this solution and 
 proceed in the manner described for the ordinary sham- 
 poo; after which all traces of the cleansing agent should 
 be most thoroughly removed by rinsing the hair and scalp 
 repeatedly in warm soft water. 
 
 Should the Hair to be Shampooed be Espe- 
 cially Greasy the following method of shampooing will 
 be found most valuable. First remove the excess of oil 
 by drawing the strands of hair through a soft cloth 
 (cheese cloth or sterile gauze is best) saturated with al- 
 cohol or cologne spirits, or equal parts of lemon juice and 
 hot water may be used in place of the alcoholic solution 
 if preferred; after the excess of oil has been removed 
 apply the shampoo and follow by several rinsings of soft 
 water, and then by the tinted blue water to be described. 
 
 The Use of Indigo. 
 
 The addition of indigo to the water serves to impart 
 a silver white lustre which can be secured in no other way, 
 and should be applied by adding to the final rinsing water 
 sufficient indigo to give it a slight bluish tinge, or by 
 spraying the hair with the indigo water by means of an 
 atomizer. Procure pure indigo for this purpose as the 
 ordinary bluing used in laundry work will not give the 
 proper tint. 
 
 Drying the Hair. 
 
 Only moderate heat should be applied to white hair 
 and it should always be dried by hand, using soft, warm 
 towels, or if desired gently fanned to hasten the process. 
 
 6 
 
82 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Avoid the use of an electric dryer, as it is even more ob- 
 jectionable in drying white hair than colored hair. 
 
 Dry Shampoo. White Indian meal will serve 
 all purposes best; it should be sprinkled over the scalp, 
 gently massaged by the fingers, and then removed by a 
 thorough brushing. On account of the changed chemical 
 composition of white hair, and the diminished amount of 
 natural oil, the shampoo should be employed only at rare 
 intervals. 
 
 Bleaching. 
 
 The most beautiful color of white hair is the white 
 silvery tint which can be acquired only when the hair is 
 entirely free from a yellowish tinge and from foreign mat- 
 ter. If the yellowish tinge is present it can be removed 
 by a harmless and efficient bleaching agent composed of 
 equal parts of lemon juice and hot water. In preparing 
 this be particular to exclude any particles of the peel or 
 juice of the peel. The scalp and hair should be thor- 
 oughly saturated with the bleaching solution and covered 
 with a warm moist towel which should be allowed to re- 
 main upon the head from ten to twenty minutes; follow 
 this by a general shampoo of selected soap and soft water, 
 after which all traces of the cleansing agent used should 
 be thoroughly removed by repeated rinsings in warm soft 
 water; a final rinsing of water very lightly tinted with 
 liquid indigo, or by spraying the indigo mixture over the 
 hair with an atomizer, as described, will complete the 
 operation. The hair should then be thoroughly dried and 
 brushed with a soft brush. 
 
 Application of Oil. 
 
 It is often necessary that an oily preparation be ap- 
 plied after the shampoo, since on account of the changes 
 
Hygiene of White Hair. 83 
 
 in the hair shaft more of the natural oil is removed from 
 white hair by the process of shampooing than from col- 
 ored hair. The hair and scalp having been thoroughly 
 dried, a small amount of equal parts of pure glycerine and 
 rose water may be rubbed into the scalp ; or if vaseline is 
 preferred, use only the fine white sterile variety. 
 
 The Brush and Comb. 
 
 The brush and comb should be used in the correct 
 manner already described in the chapter on Hygiene of 
 the Hair. 
 
 Hot Curling Irons are especially harmful to white 
 hair, and if hair tongs are used they should be but mod- 
 erately heated and wrapped with white tissue paper in the 
 manner described under "Hot Curling Irons", in order 
 that too great heat may be avoided. Neglect to properly 
 regulate the temperature of the iron may result in un- 
 sightly discolorations and grave injury to the hair sub- 
 stance. In many instances sufficient wave can be given 
 to straight white hair by slightly dampening the hair with 
 alcohol and loosely rolling it on silk curlers. 
 
 Hair Tonics. 
 
 The indiscriminate use of tonics or scalp preparations 
 or oils should be avoided by the possessor of white hair. 
 If a liquid preparation is to be used, apply directly to the 
 scalp with a medicine dropper ; if an ointment, make fre- 
 quent partings and apply, always massaging the applica- 
 tion into the scalp with the ringer tips, avoiding as far as 
 possible contact with the hair. 
 
 In the choice of a preparation intended to meet the 
 requirements of some particular condition a suitable selec- 
 tion can be found in that chapter which treats of the sub- 
 ject in view. 
 
 n 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 ALOPECIA— LOSS OF HAIR. 
 
 Time was when any man or woman who used a 
 preparation to increase the growth of the hair, or applied 
 any agent to preserve or restore its original color was 
 adjudged guilty of an immoral act. Today there is a com- 
 plete reversal of sentiment, and the man and woman who 
 neglects to use any harmless means at their disposal for 
 retaining or restoring their youthful appearance, are the 
 ones to be adjudged guilty; and rightfully so. 
 
 Age is a relative thing, since it is a self-evident truth 
 that an individual is as old as he looks. If you look old, 
 you are old; and the ravages of time entail a condition 
 that is to be remedied or deferred as long as possible. 
 This may be accomplished by a close observation of the 
 laws of hair and scalp hygiene to preserve the growth and 
 freshness of the hair ; by the use of those medicinal agents 
 which prevent the destructive effects of disease that affect 
 directly or indirectly the hair and scalp; and by con- 
 serving the strength and promoting the general health of 
 the body. 
 
 Proper massage to increase capillary circulation, to 
 regulate the secretions of the scalp glands and to restore 
 tone and vitality to the scalp and hair is an important part 
 of hair culture; but it is only a part of the means to be 
 used if the desired results are to be obtained. The scien- 
 tific care and culture of beautiful hair lies entirely within 
 the domain of modern medicine, which recognizes no fads 
 nor faddists, nor does it admit that the means of obtain- 
 ing healthful, beautiful hair lies in practicing the par- 
 
 (84) 
 
Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 85 
 
 ticular and limited methods of a favored few. The physi- 
 cian who believes that hair strength and vitality is to be 
 found in a bottle of medicine or a jar of ointment, is just 
 as narrow and errs just as widely from the truth as does 
 the professional masseur who thinks that the true means 
 of bringing about these desirable ends is to be found only 
 in massage of the scalp tissues, or as they are pleased to 
 term it — "the practice of the Natural way to restore the 
 hair." 
 
 Each system has its truths and holds much that is 
 good, at the same time containing much that is evil. One 
 would not apply a tonic alone and expect the scalp to 
 increase in strength and thickness, with an immediate 
 growth of lustrous healthy hair, any more than one would 
 expect to cure a scalp covered with diseased patches due 
 to the dandruff germ or other morbid agents, and restore 
 perfect health by the extremely dangerous practice of 
 massage or so-called special scalp manipulation, while 
 such diseased condition existed. 
 
 The perfect treatment consists in taking only all that 
 is good from the several different methods and combining 
 them into one perfect whole. 
 
 The practice of medicine, of which successful hair 
 culture is a part, is based on common sense. There is no 
 mystery about hair, no exclusive means of treatment, no 
 royal road to beautiful hair. We believe that a few min- 
 utes of your time daily, with careful observance of the 
 laws of hygiene and the application of proper remedial 
 measures as laid down, will insure hair that is natural in 
 color and normal in quantity to practically the end of life. 
 
 Alopecia — (al-o-pe-se-ah) — an abnormal deficiency, 
 or a complete loss of hair from any cause; baldness. 
 
 The loss of hair may be partial or complete, congen- 
 ital or acquired, and slow or rapid in its progress. 
 
86 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Congenital Baldness. 
 
 Congenital baldness or Alopecia Adnata, is that form 
 of baldness which is due to imperfect development, or 
 entire absence, of the hair producing organs. This form 
 of baldness is present from birth, is seldom complete, and 
 is very rarely found. An insufficient development of the 
 hair producing organs can result only in very imperfectly 
 developed fine hair, which grows in isolated spots or in 
 thin patches over varying regions of the scalp. 
 
 Treatment. 
 
 If the scalp is entirely bald, the wearing of a wig is 
 the only means for correcting this unsightly condition. 
 Should there be a very fine growth of Lanugo hairs over 
 the scalp, vigorous and persistent massage, with the ap- 
 plication of stimulating hair tonics should be given a 
 thorough trial. For this purpose the use of some one of 
 the stimulating formulas given for the cure of alopecia 
 praematura symptomatica will be found of great service. 
 Failing to achieve satisfactory results recourse must then 
 be had to the wearing of wigs. 
 
 Acquired Baldness. 
 
 It is with the acquired form of alopecia, or the partial 
 or complete loss of hair arising from any cause, that we 
 have to treat. There are several forms of acquired loss 
 of hair to which specific names are given, the name indi- 
 cating some peculiarity descriptive of the form or cause 
 of that particular form of baldness to which it is applied. 
 
 Alopecia Praematura. 
 
 Alopecia Praematura, or premature loss of hair, is 
 that form of baldness which occurs before the age of 
 forty-five years, at that time when the body functions 
 should be at their greatest vigor. 
 
Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 87 
 
 Alopecia Senilis. 
 
 Alopecia Senilis, or senile alopecia is that form of 
 baldness which occurs as the result of a general impair- 
 ment or complete loss of hair forming organs, due to 
 old age. 
 
 Alopecia Areata. 
 
 Alopecia Areata is that condition in which suddenly 
 or slowly, one or several patches or areas of baldness 
 appear upon the scalp and parts covered by the beard. 
 
 APOPECIA PRAEMATURA— EARLY LOSS OF HAIR. 
 
 Of the following forms of Alopecia or baldness with 
 which we have to do, Alopecia Praematura is by far the 
 most important. There are two principal forms of pre- 
 mature loss of hair. Alopecia Praematura Idiopathica, 
 which seemingly results from no definite exciting cause. 
 The scalp is apparently free from disease, the general 
 health may be fairly vigorous, yet in spite of these favor- 
 able conditions the loss of hair may be continuous and 
 complete. Alopecia Praematura Symptomatica, or the 
 other form of premature baldness is due to some local 
 disease of the hair or scalp, or both, such as dandruff or 
 eczema, or to some systemic poison or disease occurring 
 either as a result of body poisons following such diseases 
 as Typhoid Fever, or constitutional diseases, of which 
 Syphilis is a good example. 
 
 The Idiopathic Form of Alopecia begins before 
 the age of forty-five years, usually in or sometimes before 
 the early twenties, the loss of hair being constant and pro- 
 gressive, and results in complete baldness if prompt meas- 
 ures are not taken to restore sufficient vigor to the scalp 
 to result in the growth or reproduction of stronger new 
 hair. The loss of hair is usually most marked on the top 
 
88 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 of the head, beginning at the forehead and extending 
 backward and downward. Frequently a small patch of 
 vigorous hair is left at the top and middle of the forehead, 
 and its preservation is due to the fact that it is located 
 over the body of the Occipito-frontalis muscle where the 
 scalp is naturally thicker and the blood supply is more 
 profuse. 
 
 It has been estimated that At Least Eighty- five Per 
 Cent of All Cases of this Form of Baldness Result From 
 Some Diseased Condition of the Hair or Scalp Which 
 Has Not been Properly Treated; or to a Non-observance 
 of the Laws of Hygiene of the Hair and Scalp of Children 
 Before the Age of Puberty. In practically all of the re- 
 maining proportion of these cases the loss of hair is due to 
 an hereditary tendency. In this form of baldness we find 
 the following changes occurring in the hair and scalp. The 
 walls of the blood vessels lose their elasticity, and the 
 caliber of the vessels diminish in size so that a lessened 
 amount of blood is available for the nourishment of the 
 hair producing organs; the connective tissue of the scalp 
 becomes more fibrous in character and gradually con- 
 tracts, thereby causing an atrophy or wasting of the skin 
 cells found within the scalp. Consequent upon the loss of 
 vitality of the hair producing organs, the hair is prema- 
 turely shed. While this hair is succeeded by a new growth 
 of hair, the new hair is finer in texture and of a weakened 
 vitality. This process of shedding and new growth of 
 hair is continuous, and each time the new hair growth 
 becomes weaker and more delicate than the preceding one 
 until there is a complete absence of hair. The fact that the 
 loss of hair takes place much more slowly over the region 
 of the Occipito-frontalis muscle, and that the hair of the 
 beard is not effected because the under-lying tissues and 
 blood supply are in a healthy condition, affords the most 
 
Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 89 
 
 convincing proof of the great value of the observance of 
 the laws of hygiene together with the adoption of remedial 
 measures to stimulate hair growth and health. Generally 
 speaking, a proper knowledge of the hygiene of the hair 
 and scalp, together with the exercise of intelligent care of 
 the hair and scalp of children before the age of puberty, 
 is an almost positive guarantee that children will have a 
 full complement of healthy, beautiful hair until those 
 changes ensue which are the natural result of old age. 
 Therefore in treating all cases of Idiopathic loss of hair 
 in youth or adult, bear in mind that a very important part 
 of the treatment consists in practicing the laws of hygiene 
 of the hair and scalp, in addition to applying those reme- 
 dial preparations which may be necessary to assist falter- 
 ing nature. When shampooing observe in detail the 
 proper method of giving it; always dry the hair thor- 
 oughly and follow with the application of a hair oil if 
 needed. Should the hair be dry and lifeless, however, the 
 shampoo should be avoided altogether, or used but rarely 
 to cleanse the scalp. Avoid the use of any head-dress that 
 may bind the scalp. 
 
 To correct the evil effects of the scalp changes which 
 occur in this disease, it is of the utmost importance that 
 massage be applied thoroughly and systematically. At 
 least ten minutes each day should be devoted to massaging 
 the scalp, after which a stimulating tonic may be applied 
 by means of a medicine dropper and thoroughly rubbed 
 into the roots of the hair with the finger tips. Hair is of 
 slow growth, and if the natural vigor and normal quantity 
 of hair is restored the patient must faithfully persist with 
 the treatment. The earlier in life the hair begins to fall 
 the harder it is to check. Fresh air at all times is neces- 
 sary; digestive disturbances should be corrected; and the 
 general health should be promoted by the use of tonics 
 
90 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 which will build up all the tissues of the body. Any liquid 
 preparation should be applied a sufficient length of time 
 before the bed hour in order that the hair and scalp may 
 become thoroughly dry before retiring. 
 
 Treatment For Alopecia Prematura Idopathica, 
 
 Of the many drugs used for promoting the growth of 
 hair, Pilocarpin is one of the 1 most widely used. It is free 
 from irritant properties and stimulates practically all the 
 glands of the body. It not only promotes nutrition of the 
 hair, but also possesses the power of darkening its color. 
 It is usually applied to the scalp in the form of a lotion or 
 pomade, and formerly it was given internally. 
 
 The following formula is much used by a celebrated 
 French specialist who especially recommends it to correct 
 the loss of hair so frequently seen in women. It will be 
 found of marked value in remedying those cases of 
 approaching baldness in which the hair and scalp is oily 
 or greasy. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 ^ PILOCARPIN AMMONIA LOTION. 
 
 Alcohol 90% 8 ounces 
 
 Spirits of Lavender 6J drams 
 
 Spirits of Ether 6\ drams 
 
 Pilocarpin Muriate 4 grains 
 
 Water, enough to dissolve 
 
 Liquor Ammonia 1 dram 
 
 Mix, and apply daily to the scalp with medicine 
 dropper or rub into the scalp with the finger tips. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 On account of the stimulating action of Cinchona, it 
 may be combined with Pilocarpin to increase this property , 
 in the latter. 
 
Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 91 
 
 -n PILOCARPIN CINCHONA LOTION. 
 
 Pilocarpin I dram 
 
 Cinchona 2 drams 
 
 Glycerine 4 drams 
 
 Alcohol, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Perfume to suit 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp as No. 1. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 The following preparation will be found especially 
 useful in treating a scalp that contains an excessive 
 amount of oil : 
 
 Tincture of Jaborandi 4 drams 
 
 Quinine Sulphate 12 grains 
 
 Glycerine 3 drams 
 
 Cologne 1 ounce 
 
 Bay Rum 1 ounce 
 
 Rose water 5 ounces 
 
 Dilute Sulphuric Acid 20 drops 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Apply daily to scalp with medicine dropper and rub 
 in with brush or finger tips. 
 
 To Prepare. — Dissolve the Quinine in the Rose 
 Water with the addition of the acid, add the other in- 
 gredients and filter. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 The following preparation has been widely used with 
 much satisfaction. The Pilocarpin, Quinine, and Can- 
 tharides are among the best agents for stimulating the 
 growth of hair; the Resorcin is of especial value in the 
 treatment of dandruff and falling hair; and the Menthol 
 has a sedative effect after brisk rubbing. Apply this 
 preparation to the scalp by using a medicine dropper. 
 
92 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Menthol , 4 grains 
 
 Tincture Cantharides 2 drams 
 
 Quinine Hydrochlorate 11 grains 
 
 Fluid Extract Pilocarpin 2 drams 
 
 Glycerine 2 drams 
 
 Resorcin 18 grains 
 
 Heliotrope Extract 30 drops 
 
 Alcohol 2J ounces 
 
 Distilled water, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Solution of Chlorophyll, enough to give a beautiful 
 green tint. 
 
 Mix. Sig. — Apply as directed. 
 
 Coal tar and petroleum oil were in the past used 
 extensively in treating cases of premature baldness, and 
 each of these preparations has enjoyed considerable repu- 
 tation in promoting hair growth. Aside from the fact 
 that they are extremely disagreeable to use on the scalp, 
 in the light of present day knowledge their claims to use- 
 fulness as hair growers are not borne out by facts. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 A preparation somewhat similar to the following has 
 been used with great success by an eminent English 
 authority. It has yielded excellent results in our hands. 
 
 Acetic Acid U. S. P 4 drams 
 
 Pulverized Borax 1 dram 
 
 Glycerine 2 drams 
 
 Alcohol 3 drams 
 
 Rose water, enough to make 8 ounces > 
 
 Mix. Sig. — Apply to scalp every other night and 
 massage in with the finger tips. 
 
Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 93 
 
 No. 6. 
 The following preparation is an excellent stimulating 
 hair and scalp tonic : 
 
 Quinine Sulphate 8 grains 
 
 Tincture Jaborandi 4 drams 
 
 Tincture Cantharides 6 drams 
 
 Eau de Cologne 3 drams 
 
 Water . . . . 6 ounces 
 
 Mix. Sig. — Apply night and morning. 
 
 No. 7 
 
 This preparation is not so stimulating in character as 
 No. 6. It is indicated when the scalp and hair is dry and 
 brittle. 
 
 Quinine Sulphate 20 grains 
 
 Glycerine 2 drams 
 
 Eau de Cologne 2 ounces 
 
 F. E. Jaborandi 4 drams 
 
 Water, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Sig. — Apply to scalp three or four times a week. 
 
 ALOPECIA PRAEMATURA SYMPTOMATICA. 
 
 Alopecia Praematura Symptomatica or the second 
 variety of early loss of hair is the result of some local 
 or constitutional disease, whereby the nourishment and 
 growth of the hair is interfered with as a result of dis- 
 ease of the scalp or body. This form of baldness may 
 occur at any time, its onset being dependent upon the time 
 in life when the disease producing it is acquired. By far 
 the greater percentage of this form of baldness is the 
 
94 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 result of some form of dandruff. The dandruff may be 
 present in the form of fine, dry scales which may be almost 
 imperceptible to the eye, or in large, thick, greasy scales 
 as large as the finger nail or even larger, and adherent to 
 the scalp. The scalp may be reddened, dry, and somewhat 
 hot to the touch. The hair is dry with a tendency to split 
 ends, and has lost its lustre; or the scalp may be moist, 
 apparently thickened and greasy to the touch; the hair in 
 this case containing an excess of oil, with a tendency to 
 mat together. The scalp in both instances is irritated, 
 the sensation varying from slight itching to positive irri- 
 tation. There is a constant and progressive shedding of 
 hair, together with a loss of vitality and size in the suc- 
 ceeding growth of new hair. This process continues until 
 the scalp is covered by a fine growth of downy hair, or 
 complete baldness is established. The length of time re- 
 quired for these processes to be complete depends upon 
 the intensity of the disease and the natural resistance of 
 the hair and scalp. 
 
 Treatment For Alopecia Prematura Sym- 
 ptomatica. 
 
 By far the greater number of cases of Alopecia Prae- 
 matura Symptomatica are due to the presence of the 
 dandruff germ or some form of fungus. For the relief 
 of this condition a preparation which will destroy germ 
 life is necessary. If the dandruff present is in the form of 
 fine, brany scales, the scalp should be thoroughly sham- 
 pooed as described, and some one of the following local 
 preparations used : 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 The following preparation will be found most ex- 
 cellent : 
 
Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 
 
 Bichloride of Mercury I grain 
 
 Resorcin 2 drams 
 
 Chloral hydrate 2 drams 
 
 Castor Oil 50 dr0 P s 
 
 Alcohol, enough to make 8 ounces - 
 
 Mix. Sig. — Apply to scalp with medicine dropper, 
 or rub into scalp with finger tips. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 The antiseptic properties of this preparation are 
 greater than No. 1. 
 
 Bichloride of Mercury 3 grains 
 
 Euresol pro. Capillis 2 drams 
 
 Spirit Formicarium 1 ounce 
 
 Castor Oil 2 drams 
 
 Alcohol, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply daily with medicine dropper or rub into 
 scalp with finger tips. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 This is an antiseptic, stimulating, efficient lotion. 
 Perfumed with Rosemary it possesses a pleasing odor. 
 
 Resorcin 90 grains 
 
 Tannic Acid 80 grains 
 
 Chloral hydrate 80 grains 
 
 Tincture Benzoin 50 drops 
 
 Castor Oil 3 drams 
 
 Spirits Rosemary, enough to make 6 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply as Nos. 1 and 2. 
 
96 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 These preparations should be applied to the scalp 
 with a medicine dropper or thoroughly rubbed into the 
 scalp with the finger tips once or, in severe cases, twice 
 daily. It will be noticed that they contain Resorcin or a 
 modification of Resorcin, and they should not be used on 
 blonde or white hair on account of the property Resorcin 
 has of staining the hair. The addition of twelve grains 
 of salicylic acid to the preceding prescriptions will pre- 
 vent the discoloration of blonde hair. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 A French specialist of international reputation rec- 
 ommends the use of the following. On account of the oil 
 of cade which it contains, the odor of tar which cannot 
 be disguised is perceptible. The preparation is efficient 
 
 Oil of Cade 3 ounces 
 
 Decoction of Soap bark i ounce 
 
 Yolk of Egg i 
 
 Distilled water, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Sig. — Add three tablespoonfuls to a pint of 
 water and use as a shampoo. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 If an ointment is preferred the following will be 
 found most excellent : 
 
 Ammoniated Mercury 25 grains 
 
 Calomel 40 grains 
 
 Vaseline 1 ounce 
 
 Mix. Sig. — Rub thoroughly into scalp with the 
 finger tips. 
 
Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 97 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 If the scalp is scaly and there are many thick, greasy 
 crusts on the scalp apply the following: 
 
 Salicylic Acid 20 grains 
 
 Almond Oil 2 ounces 
 
 Mix. Rub into the scalp at night, and wash scalp 
 with soap and water in the morning. 
 
 Repeat this process for several nights until the scalp 
 is clean, when any of the preceding preparations may be 
 used. After the scalp and hair have been entirely freed 
 from all evidences of the disease, one of the stimulating 
 tonics given in the chapter for Hair Tonics should be 
 applied as directed. 
 
 DEFLUVIUM CAPILLORUM. 
 
 Defluvium Capillorum is the name given to that 
 variety of Alopecia Praematura Symptomatica when the 
 loss of hair is due to the effects of body toxins which in- 
 terfere with the nutrition of, or directly poison, the hair 
 papilla. The loss of hair usually follows an attack of 
 some acute disease, especially Typhoid Fever; or some 
 constitutional disease as Syphilis, for the cure of which 
 mercury or Salvarsan has been used. Complete baldness 
 rarely results; the hair more often becoming thin and 
 scant with a loss of vitality, and a dull lifeless appearance. 
 
 Treatment of Defluvium Capillorum. 
 
 It will be readily understood from the nature of this 
 trouble that observance of the laws of hygiene of the scalp, 
 with the application of some mild stimulating tonic, to- 
 
 7 
 
98 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 gether with the constitutional treatment by the physician, 
 is all that is necessary to restore normal hair growth and 
 health subsequent to an attack of fever, especially typhoid. 
 It has been the practice in the past to close crop the 
 hair or even to shave the scalp, in the belief that the hair 
 cutting was necessary to a complete restoration of healthy 
 hair. This is not true. Massage the scalp daily, shampoo 
 only when necessary to insure cleanliness, and apply some 
 one of the general hair tonics, formulae for which are 
 given. 
 
 Falling of the hair or baldness resulting from the 
 effects of Syphilis is corrected by constitutional treatment 
 which is best given by a reputable physician. After the 
 active stage of syphilis has passed, massage should be 
 regularly employed, and the scalp should be kept clean by 
 the shampoo. If dandruff is present proceed with one of 
 the preparations given for the cure of dandruff. 
 
 PITYRIASIS CAPITIS— DANDRUFF. 
 
 Dandruff is the most common cause of Alopecia 
 Praematura Symptomatica, and we cannot conclude the 
 subject of baldness without devoting more space to a gen- 
 eral consideration of the cause and treatment of this 
 disease. Pityriasis or Dandruff is that condition of the 
 scalp which is characterized by a shedding, either scant 
 or profuse, of minute brany scales which may fall to 
 such a slight extent as to be hardly perceptible, or so pro- 
 fusely as to powder the clothing. The scales may be 
 white, fine and brany, or yellow, thick, and greasy in 
 texture. The scalp usually atrophies or wastes away, and 
 the changes in the hair and scalp as described under Alo- 
 pecia Praematura take place. This disease may extend 
 over a period of many years; or it may be rapid in its 
 course and persisting, if remedial means are not adopted 
 
Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 99 
 
 to check it, until the hair is entirely lost and complete bald- 
 ness results. Dandruff, more than any other Disease is 
 responsible for the greatest loss of hair. It is contagious, 
 and one should be continuously on their guard to prevent 
 infection. As has been stated, great care should be taken 
 to avoid using any article or hair-dressing instrument, or 
 any head-dress worn by another. Infection may be con- 
 veyed from one person to another simply by sleeping in 
 the same bed. One of the principal symptoms of dandruff 
 is scalp irritation varying in severity from a slight itching 
 to a severe irritation. 
 
 There Are Two Forms of Pityriasis Capitis or 
 Dandruff. The simple form in which the scales are fine 
 and brany; and a form more chronic in nature, in which 
 the scales partake more of the nature of thick greasy 
 crusts. There is no question but that a form of bacteria 
 is responsible for this disease. It is sometimes associated 
 with other diseases of the scalp, especially Seborrhoea, 
 with which it is frequently confused. 
 
 Seborrhoea is that condition in which there is an 
 excess of secretions from the Sebaceous and sweat glands, 
 together with the formation of small waxy filaments which 
 are found in the skin follicles. In these cases the skin of 
 the face, especially around the nose and on the forehead as 
 well as the scalp and hair, is usually oily or moist with 
 sweat, and by pinching up folds of the skin many fine 
 white filaments may be pressed out of the skin follicles. 
 For the cure of this condition the following preparation 
 may be applied to the scalp night and morning: 
 
100 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 * No. 1. 
 
 Bichloride of Mercury 2 grains 
 
 Resorcin i£ drams 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 4 drams 
 
 Glycerine 2 drams 
 
 Alcohol, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply with medicine dropper or by rubbing 
 into the scalp with the tips of the fingers once or twice 
 daily. 
 
 Either of the Acetic Acid preparations or the Resor- 
 cin Preparations given under the chapter on Alopecia will 
 be found of much benefit; or the following will also be 
 found useful: 
 
 ^ No. 2. 
 
 Chloral hydrate I dram 
 
 Resorcin 20 grains 
 
 Glycerine -J dram 
 
 Alcohol 5 drams 
 
 Water, enough to make 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply with a medicine dropper or by rubbing 
 into the scalp with the finger tips once or twice daily. 
 
 While the ordinary condition of dandruff is well 
 known to people in general, the destructive effects upon 
 the scalp, with the consequent loss of hair, are not so well 
 understood. It is very important therefore that dandruff 
 be recognized early and prompt measures instituted for its 
 cure. The fact that it is so very common is proof of its 
 infective nature. In treating dandruff, especially when 
 the scalp and hair are very oily, the shampoo, using an 
 antiseptic soap, can be employed with benefit at frequent 
 intervals. A shampoo once a week or even oftener will 
 
Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 101 
 
 be found beneficial, provided care is taken to thoroughly 
 dry the hair. Alcohol can be employed to advantage and 
 should be applied in sufficient quantities to wet the scalp 
 if the hair is short. With women, if the hair is long as is 
 usually the case, the hair should be parted and the scalp 
 rubbed with a small sponge or piece of cloth saturated with 
 alcohol. In case of very dry hair the application of an oil 
 should be made to the scalp after the use of alcohol, or one 
 or two teaspoonfuls of a good Castor oil may be added to 
 a pint of alcohol and applied, as the alcohol will evaporate 
 rapidly, and leave a deposit of oil. 
 
 ALOPECIA SENILIS— LOSS OF HAIR DUE TO OLD AGE. 
 
 In this form of baldness the loss of hair begins on the 
 top of the head, proceeding from before backward, or 
 from the back of the head, advancing toward the fore- 
 head ; while the sides and back of the head may be appar- 
 ently unaffected. Accompanying this condition we find 
 gray hair or hair that is turning gray, together with other 
 indications of diminished vitality. The changes in the 
 scalp are due to atrophy or wasting, the result of old age, 
 and have been practically described in the chapter on 
 Premature Baldness. 
 
 When there has been a destruction of the hair grow- 
 ing organs due to old age, no treatment will create a new 
 growth of hair. In this, class of cases the "ounce of pre- 
 vention is worth the pound of cure." When symptoms 
 of approaching baldness due to old age appear, the fullest 
 vigor of the scalp possible should be maintained by mas- 
 sage, together with the application of stimulating prepara- 
 tions which directly effect hair growth; for it is to 
 prevent the early loss of hair in Premature Alopecia, and 
 to retain the hair as long as possible in Alopecia Senilis, 
 
102 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 that the practice of early prophylactic treatment is espe- 
 cially valuable. The children of today are the men and 
 women of tomorrow, and if they are to possess in later 
 life the heads of hair which Nature intended they should 
 have, a too early observance of the laws of hygiene of the 
 hair and scalp cannot be practiced. 
 
 Treatment of Alopecia Senilis. 
 
 Apply a stimulating tonic as directed, and if the hair 
 is dry, rub in at frequent intervals Almond oil or Olive oil 
 sufficiently often to keep the hair soft and elastic. Avoid 
 frequent wetting of the hair and resort to massage for 
 ten minutes daily. 
 
 ALOPECIA AREATA— BALD SPOTS. 
 
 Alopecia Areata is that condition in which sud- 
 denly or slowly, one or several irregular patches of bald- 
 ness appear upon the scalp and parts covered by the beard. 
 The loss of hair may be slow or sudden in its onset, and 
 may or may not be accompanied by pain. In some 
 instances there is a loss of sensation on the bald spots with 
 an apparent change in the color or texture of the scalp; 
 in others the denuded areas are reddened and a degree of 
 irritation of the skin is present, varying in degree from 
 a slight itching to a feeling of tenderness when the spot 
 is touched. The margin of the scalp at the back of the 
 head seems to be the favorite area for the loss of hair, 
 although the bald spots may occur over any region. The 
 number of patches may vary from one to a large number, 
 and range in size from a fraction of an inch to four or 
 five inches in diameter. The hairs around the margin of 
 the bald spot are usually dry and brittle. This disease 
 is usually of a chronic nature, with complete recovery in 
 
Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 103 
 
 the end if the proper course of medication is pursued. 
 When recovery occurs the patch is first covered by a 
 growth of fine hair; at a later period the fine hairs may 
 again fall out, to be succeeded by a patch of light colored 
 hair which gradually grows darker in color and coarser 
 in texture. The cause of this disease is not definitely 
 known. It is thought by some eminent authorities to be 
 due to the presence of a parasitic skin disease coming on 
 at an early period in life. Alopecia Areata may also be 
 produced by the ill advised application to the scalp of 
 preparations which excite a localized scalp disturbance. 
 
 Treatment of Alopecia Areata. 
 
 Any constitutional defect or illness should be cor- 
 rected by appropriate remedies to build up the general 
 health. The local treatment is of the utmost importance. 
 All the loose hair surrounding the diseased areas should 
 be plucked from the scalp and stimulating antiseptic tonics 
 should be applied as directed. One of the best prepara- 
 tions in the treatment of this condition depends for its 
 action upon the presence of acetic acid. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 £ ACETIC ACID — CHLORAL HYDRATE LOTION. 
 
 Acetic Acid crystals 4 grains 
 
 Chloral hydrate 2 drams 
 
 Spirits of Ether 2 ounces 
 
 Mix. Sig. — Apply to the bald spot daily. Should 
 irritation of the scalp ensue the number of applications 
 should be decreased or discontinued for a time. 
 
104 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 ^ ACETIC ACID — RESORCIN LOTION. 
 
 Acetic Acid 2 drams 
 
 Resorcin 1 dram 
 
 Perfumed Spirit 1 ounce 
 
 Rose Water 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. Sig. — Apply to scalp with medicine dropper. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 ^ ACETIC ACID — BORAX LOTION. 
 
 Acetic Acid 2 drams 
 
 Pulverized Borax 30 grains 
 
 Glycerine 1 dram 
 
 Alcohol 2 drams 
 
 Rose Water, ,enough to make 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. Sig. — Apply to scalp every other night and 
 massage in with finger tips. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 A preparation somewhat similar to the following has 
 been used and highly recommended. In many cases the 
 normal growth and color of the hair is said to have been 
 restored in a few weeks time. 
 
 ^ PILOCARPIN OINTMENT. 
 
 Fl. Extract of Pilocarpin 3 drams 
 
 Lanolin 6 drams 
 
 Goose grease, enough to make 2 ounces 
 
 Oil of Rose Geranium 24 drops 
 
 Mix. Sig. — Rub thoroughly into the scalp at bed 
 hour. 
 
Alopecia — Loss of Hair. 105 
 
 Should the bald spot to be treated be elsewhere than 
 on the scalp, as is sometimes the case, the strength of the 
 remedy applied should be reduced from one-third to one- 
 half. Electric applications to the scalp through the 
 medium of the X Ray or high frequency current, or 
 simple mechanical massage have been advocated by some. 
 We have not found any special benefit derived from these 
 methods of treatment. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 SYMPTOMS OF BEGINNING BALDNESS. 
 
 The average life of human hair varies from two to 
 six years, dependent upon various conditions as stated 
 under Physiology of the Hair. There is a constant shed- 
 ding and new growth of hair during the life of an indi- 
 vidual, and to know whether the balance between the loss 
 and new growth of hair is maintained, it is well to have 
 some method by which we can determine whether or not 
 the shedding of hair is abnormal, in order that the proper 
 treatment to prevent undue loss may be adopted. Hair 
 that has attained its full growth and as we say has com- 
 pleted its natural life, is shed as we have learned — in the 
 following manner: The hair root is loosened from the 
 papilla and gradually moves upward until the hair bulb 
 rests in the middle follicular region where it becomes 
 attached to the external root sheath; from which it 
 receives sufficient nourishment to prolong its life for two 
 or three months, when it dies and falls from the head. 
 All hairs that live out their allotted span of life pass into 
 this stage and are known as bed hairs, while the middle 
 third of the hair follicle where the hair bulb finally rests 
 in its passage upward from the papilla is known as the 
 hair bed. During the process of separation from the 
 papilla and passing up through the follicle, the bulb 
 becomes expanded and knob-like. After remaining in the 
 hair bed for its allotted time the knob-like projection is 
 lost; and when the hair is finally cast off we see only the 
 full rounded end roots. Hairs whose fall has been 
 hastened by disease retain these knob-like, drawn-out 
 
 (106) 
 
Signs of Beginning Baldness. 107 
 
 ends; while the roots of hairs that have lived their nor- 
 mal length of life present no such enlargements. 
 
 To determine whether the definite proportion between 
 hair growth and loss is disturbed as a result of disease, 
 the following method may be employed. 
 
 Thoroughly wash the scalp, and a week later collect 
 for three days the hairs that are shed, putting each day's 
 fall in a separate envelope; a month later the hair is to 
 be again saved for three days and the amount and con- 
 dition of the fallen hair compared with that of the pre- 
 vious three days' fall. When the loss of hair is rapid, 
 more hairs with knob-like roots and often with drawn- 
 out epithelial projections will be found. The less this 
 form of root is present the less the abnormal loss of hair 
 is occurring, until only hairs which have the rounded, full 
 roots are met with, which indicates that the abnormal 
 shedding process has stopped. 
 
 The following method has been suggested as a means 
 of determining whether the loss of hair is excessive as a 
 result of seborrhoea or dandruff. When the proportion 
 of short hairs to the total fall is as one to ten, the average 
 length of the hair being two to three inches, or as one to 
 eight, the average length of the hair being five or more 
 inches, the loss is abnormal. Growth of new hair is evi- 
 denced by the appearance of new, fine hair which grad- 
 ually becomes deeper in color and coarser and stronger in 
 texture. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 HAIR TONICS FOR GENERAL USE. 
 
 A hair tonic may be defined as one of a class of medi- 
 cines which gradually and permanently increase the tone 
 of the hair and scalp by imparting new strength, cor- 
 recting functional debility, and thereby restoring healthy 
 and vigorous life to the scalp and hair. By its local action 
 it should sterilize the skin surface and hasten the removal 
 of the old horny cells from the scalp, regulate the secre- 
 tions of the Sebaceous glands, promote the absorbtion of 
 infiltrations, and restore to normal size, tone and activity 
 the blood vessels and lymphatic channels. It should be 
 convenient to apply, pleasing to the special senses, and 
 should leave a feeling of freshness and sweetness of the 
 hair and scalp after application. 
 
 Commercial Hair Tonics. 
 
 An analysis of many of the leading hair tonics indi- 
 cates that practically all of them owe their claim of virtue 
 to their local effect upon the scalp. Their use is usually 
 characterized by a burning sensation, accompanied by a 
 reddened condition of the skin, the effects of local irrita- 
 tion rather than healthy stimulation. Tonics that produce 
 an irritation of the scalp are harmful, and should not be 
 used excepting in those rare instances when one is dealing 
 with a parasitic disease of the scalp; and they should be 
 discontinued as soon as the special purpose for which they 
 were used has been accomplished. The usual hair tonic 
 found on the market is made primarily to sell ; and profit 
 to the manufacturer is the first essential of its being. 
 
 (108) 
 
Hair Tonics for General Use. 109 
 
 Advertising cost must of necessity be considered, fre- 
 quently to the detriment of the medicinal value of the 
 tonic, and one preparation must meet the requirements of 
 a multitude of diseased conditions which affect the hair 
 and scalp; that one tonic can care for all these conditions 
 is manifestly impossible. With these conclusions in view 
 we submit in this book a variety of formulae from which 
 the selection of a proper tonic most suitable for one's 
 individual use can be made. 
 
 Individual Hair Tonics. 
 
 Several formulae of practically every medicinal agent 
 possessing valuable tonic properties are given, either 
 singly, or in the most effective combination; each ingredi- 
 ent having a definite action and serving a certain useful 
 purpose. In addition to the principal ingredient there will 
 be found in the various formulas other medicinal agents 
 which furnish the vehicle, color and scent, or serve to 
 enhance the action of those medicines which are the active 
 agents of the prescription. Thus you may know the 
 quantity and action of every medicinal agent used ; and if 
 the prescription is properly compounded and intelligently 
 applied, ideal tonic effects must result. The following list 
 includes special formulae endorsed by or used in the prac- 
 tice of the leading American, English, German and 
 French specialists, and represents the latest scientific 
 thought in hair tonics. The formulas are so described 
 that the proper selection for one's individual needs can be 
 easily made. 
 
 Tonic Suggestions. 
 
 Hair tonics should be put up in alcohol whenever 
 possible, in order that the hair and scalp may dry rapidly 
 and the hair may not be left wet and sticky. As a rule if 
 
110 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 the scalp is dry and scaly, ointments should be used. To 
 properly use a hair tonic, remember that the object is to 
 .apply it to the scalp and roots of the hair rather than to 
 the hair shaft. This may be accomplished by means of a 
 medicine dropper; by pouring the tonic into a shallow 
 dish, and administering to the scalp with a small sponge 
 or cloth; or if preferred, by dipping the ends of the 
 fingers into the tonic and applying it direct. After 
 application, massage it into the scalp, using the balls of 
 the fingers, not the finger nails. 
 
 If preparations are being constantly used for the hair 
 and scalp a shampoo should be given at least every one 
 or two weeks; after which the hair should be thoroughly 
 dried and a little oil rubbed into the scalp. Split and 
 broken hair is usually the result of injury to hair that 
 has become brittle from lack of oil. To remedy this 
 condition sufficient oil to render it soft and elastic should 
 be applied. Hair that is abnormally dry should not be 
 washed with soap and water. In the evening apply sweet 
 almond oil or castor oil diluted with 20 per cent of alcohol. 
 In diseased or abraded conditions of the scalp it is safer 
 to avoid local applications unless permission for their use 
 is given by a competent physician. 
 
 Pilocarpin Preparations. 
 
 Of the many medicinal agents used for promoting 
 hair growth, Pilocarpin is one of the best and most widely 
 known. It is of especial value in restoring a normal 
 healthy condition when the hair is dull and lifeless and 
 the scalp is dry, by stimulating the fat glands of the scalp. 
 It also has the power of darkening the color of the hair. 
 Pilocarpin, while expensive, we regard as of decided 
 service. 
 
Hair Tonics for General Use. Ill 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 ■o PILOCARPIN — CAPSICUM TONIC. 
 
 Pilocarpin Hydrochlorate 12 grains 
 
 Tincture of Capsicum 4 drams 
 
 Ammonia water 10% 2 ounces 
 
 Cologne 5 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp night and morning. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 £ PILOCARPIN QUININE TONIC. 
 
 Pilocarpin Nitrate 16 grains 
 
 Quinine Hydrochloride 40 grains 
 
 Glycerine 4 drams 
 
 Rose water, enough to make 6 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp with medicine dropper once 
 
 daily. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 £ PILOCARPIN CANTHARIDES TONIC. 
 
 Pilocarpin Nitrate 4 grains 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 2 drams 
 
 Cologne water 2 ounces 
 
 Imported Bay Rum 6 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp with medicine dropper once 
 
 daily. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 £ PILOCARPIN TONIC. 
 
 Fluid extract Jaborandi 5 drains 
 
 Quinine Sulphate 16 grains 
 
 Glycerine 3 drams 
 
 Eau de Cologne i-| ounces 
 
 Distilled water 6 ounces 
 
 Mix. Rub thoroughly into scalp four times a week. 
 Note. — Jaborandi is another name for Pilocarpin. 
 
 r 
 
112 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 £ PILOCARPIN TONIC. 
 
 Pilocarpin Muriate 18 grains 
 
 Spirits Odorati 4 drams 
 
 Absolute Alcohol 4 ounces 
 
 Rose water " 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. Rub thoroughly into scalp with finger tips 
 night and morning. 
 
 Cantharides. 
 
 Cantharides is widely used in the preparation of hair 
 tonics on account of its stimulating effects upon the scalp. 
 It increases the blood supply, thus augmenting the amount 
 of nourishment which is carried to the hair roots. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 ^ CANTHARIDES TONIC OINTMENT. 
 
 Tincture Cantharides 1 dram 
 
 White Vaseline 2 ounces 
 
 Oil of Rosemary 20 drops 
 
 Oil of Lavender . 20 drops 
 
 Mix. Rub thoroughly into scalp night and morning. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 ^ CANTHARIDES LIQUID TONIC. 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 2 drams 
 
 Glycerine 4 drams 
 
 Rose water .' 4 ounces 
 
 Tincture of Musk , 5 drops 
 
 Mix. Rub thoroughly into scalp once daily. 
 
Hair Tonics for General Use. 113 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 CANTHARIDES AMMONIA TONIC. 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 5 drams 
 
 Water of Ammonia 2 drams 
 
 Oil of Rosemary , 30 drops 
 
 Cologne water, enough to make 6 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp once daily. 
 
 This preparation is the equal or superior of any sold 
 on the market ; and at one-half the cost. 
 
 Quinine Hair Tonics. 
 
 In the realm of hair tonics Quinine enjoys an enviable 
 reputation. When applied it has no effect upon the 
 healthy skin; but it possesses germicidal properties which 
 make it valuable, as recent scientific research has demon- 
 strated, in the treatment of various scalp diseases, such 
 as dandruff, which effect hair vitality. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 QUININE — CANTHARIDES HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Quinine Sulphate 15 grains 
 
 Imported Bay Rum 2 drams 
 
 Glycerine 2 drams 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 1 dram 
 
 Tincture of Cinchona 2 drams 
 
 Water 9 ounces 
 
 Mix, dissolve and filter. 
 Apply to scalp once daily. 
 
114 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 QUININE BAY RUM HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Quinine Sulphate 16 grains 
 
 Glycerine 5 drams 
 
 Cologne water I3 drams 
 
 Imported Bay Rum 13 drams 
 
 Tincture Cinchona ii drams 
 
 Rose water 8 ounces 
 
 Mix, dissolve and filter. 
 Apply to scalp once daily. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 QUININE JABORANDI HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Quinine Sulphate 50 grains 
 
 Fluid extract of Jaborandi 6\ drams 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 6J drams 
 
 Glycerine 3 drams 
 
 Imported Bay Rum 8 ounces 
 
 Mix, dissolve and filter. 
 
 Dissolve the Quinine in the alcoholic preparation and 
 add other ingredients. Let stand for a few hours and 
 then filter. Color and perfume to suit. 
 
 Apply to scalp once daily. 
 
 Hair Tonics Containing Oil. 
 
 The combination of oil with medicinal preparations 
 which have the property of stimulating hair growth and 
 vitality, is especially valuable in treating those cases 
 where the scalp is harsh and dry and the hair is brittle, 
 due to a deficiency of natural oil. On account of its solu- 
 
Hair Tonics for General Use. 115 
 
 bility in alcohol and its local effect upon the hair, castor 
 oil is the most satisfactory of all oils used for this purpose. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 OIL AND CANTHARIDES HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Castor oil 4 ounces 
 
 Alcohol 9 ounces 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides £ dram 
 
 Oil of Bergamot 2 drops 
 
 Oil of Rose Geranium 5 drops 
 
 Red Saunders i drop 
 
 Mix. Macerate for several days with occasional 
 stirring and strain. 
 
 Rub thoroughly into the roots of the hair every one 
 or two days. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 OIL AND QUININE HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Castor oil 4 drams 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 3 drams 
 
 Quinine Sulphate 18 grains 
 
 Oil of Bay 8 drops 
 
 Alcohol 7 ounces 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Dissolve Quinine in alcohol, add the other ingredients, 
 and stir until solution has occurred; then filter. A beau- 
 tiful yellow color may be imparted by the addition of 
 Tincture of Curcuma. 
 
 Apply to scalp every one or two days. 
 
116 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 OIL — BAY RUM HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Castor oil i ounce 
 
 French Brandy 2 ounces 
 
 Imported Bay Rum 2 ounces 
 
 Oil of Rose Geranium 30 drops 
 
 Mix. Rub thoroughly into roots of hair every one 
 or two days. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 OIL TONIC TO CHECK FALLING HAIR. A SIMPLE AND 
 EFFICIENT TONIC. 
 
 Carbonate of Ammonia 2 drams 
 
 Oil of Bergamot 12 drops 
 
 Sweet oil 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Reduce carbonate of ammonia to impalpable powder. 
 Shake well before using. 
 
 To check falling hair apply to scalp daily. 
 
 Resorcin Hair Tonics. 
 
 Resorcin having marked stimulating and antiseptic 
 properties, has been much employed as a hair grower and 
 scalp tonic, especially by the French specialists. In recent 
 years it has acquired wide popularity in America, mark- 
 edly for the treatment of Dandruff and Seborrhoea of 
 the scalp. On account of its property of staining white 
 hair, preparations containing Resorcin should not be used 
 upon light blonde or white hair. 
 
Hair Tonics for General Use. 117 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 RESORCIN — SALICYLIC HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Resorcin I dram 
 
 Salicylic Acid 12 grains 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 2 drams 
 
 Glycerine 4 drams 
 
 Dilute Alcohol 8 ounces 
 
 Oil of Rose Geranium 3 drops 
 
 Mix. Apply daily to scalp with medicine dropper. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 RESORCIN — CANTHARIDES HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Resorcin 50 grains 
 
 Glycerine ij drams 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 2 drams 
 
 Compound tinct. Lavender 2 drams 
 
 Imported Bay Rum 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply daily to scalp with medicine dropper. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 RESORCIN — WITCH HAZEL HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Resorcin ij drams 
 
 Water 1 ounce 
 
 Witch Hazel 2 ounces 
 
 Alcohol 2 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply daily to scalp with medicine dropper. 
 This preparation is especially effective when the hair 
 is oily. 
 
118 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 RESORCIN QUININE HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Resorcin I dram 
 
 Quinine Sulphate 20 grains 
 
 Castor oil 1 dram 
 
 Cologne water 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp daily with medicine dropper. 
 
 Sage Hair Tonics. 
 
 Sage has been used as one of the principal ingredients 
 of hair tonics from the time of our fore-fathers. Long 
 experience has proved its worth as a scalp stimulant and 
 hair tonic. In combination with various other ingredients 
 to enhance its action, as found in the following prescrip- 
 tions, most excellent results can be expected from its use. 
 Sage also has the property of slightly darkening the 
 color of the hair. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 SAGE NEROLI TONIC. 
 
 Fluid extract of Sage 4 drams 
 
 Tincture of Green Soap 4 drams 
 
 Tincture of Red Cinchona 2 drams 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 30 drops 
 
 Glycerine 1 \ drams 
 
 Chloral hydrate 1 dram 
 
 Cologne water 1 ounce 
 
 Oil of Bergamot 15 drops 
 
 Oil of Sweet Orange 15 drops 
 
 Oil of Neroli 3 drops 
 
 Alcohol 2 drams 
 
 California Brandy, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Dissolve the Chloral hydrate in the Cologne water. 
 
Hair Tonics for General Use. 119 
 
 Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add this to the Cologne 
 water solution, and mix all ingredients. Let stand for a 
 week and filter through Calcium Phosphate. 
 
 Apply to scalp once daily. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 SAGE BERGAMOT TONIC. 
 
 Fluid extract of Sage 4 drams 
 
 Tincture of Green Soap i-J drams 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 1 dram 
 
 Glycerine i-J drams 
 
 Menthol 4 grains 
 
 Oil of Sweet Orange 20 drops 
 
 Bay Rum 1 ounce 
 
 Oil of Bergamot 15 drops 
 
 Alcohol 2 ounces 
 
 Water, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp once daily. 
 
 Dissolve the oils and menthol in the alcohol, mix the 
 fluid extract of sage with the glycerine, tincture of can- 
 tharides and bay rum. Mix the green soap with 2 ounces 
 of water, adding it gradually with constant stirring; then 
 mix all the solutions with water to make 8 ounces. Let 
 stand for twenty-four hours and filter. 
 
 Ammonia Hair Tonics. 
 
 Ammonia water, singly or in combination, is a cleanly 
 and efficient scalp stimulant and is employed with much 
 satisfaction by many hair specialists. The following 
 formula is of especial use in loss of hair so frequently- 
 seen in women, and we recommend it as being especially 
 
120 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 useful in the treatment of loss of hair when the hair and 
 scalp are abnormally oily and greasy. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 I - FORMULA OF A FRENCH SPECIALIST. 
 
 AMMONIA — PILOCARPIN HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Liquor Ammonia 10% i dram 
 
 To which should be added 
 
 Alcohol 8 ounces 
 
 Spirits of Lavender 6 drams 
 
 Spirits of Ether 6 drams 
 
 Pilocarpin Muriate 4 grains 
 
 Water enough to dissolve. 
 
 Mix and rub thoroughly into scalp with tips of ringers 
 at bed hour. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 AMMONIA — CAPSICUM HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Aromatic Spirits of Ammonia \ dram 
 
 Tincture of Capsicum i dram 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 40 drops 
 
 Resorcin \ dram 
 
 Quinine Sulphate 3 grains 
 
 Bay Rum 2 ounces 
 
 Alcohol 3 ounces 
 
 Water, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Perfume to suit 
 
 Mix the Bay Rum and alcohol, and dissolve in the 
 quinine and resorcin ; then add the other ingredients, allow 
 to stand for two days, and filter. 
 
 Apply to scalp at bed hour. 
 
Hair Tonics for General Use. 121 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 AMMONIA — CHLOROFORM HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Chloroform i ounce 
 
 Stronger water of Ammonia i ounce 
 
 Glycerine 6 drams 
 
 Alcohol 5 ounces 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Brush scalp thoroughly and apply two or three times 
 a week. If scalp irritation results, dilute preparation with 
 water. This preparation is a superior hair tonic 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 AMMONIA — CANTHARIDES HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Liquor Ammonia io% 5 drams 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 3 drams 
 
 Eau de Cologne 1 ounce 
 
 Water, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply night and morning. 
 
 This tonic is especially useful in checking falling hair. 
 
 Mercury Hair Tonics. 
 
 Mercury is one of the most efficient antiseptics used 
 in medicine. For this reason it is widely used as a tonic 
 application in treating scalp diseases of a parasitic or a 
 fungoid nature. It may be used in the form of an oint- 
 ment or as a liquid preparation. It is especially valuable 
 when combined with resorcin. 
 
122 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 MERCURY-ALCOHOL TONIC. 
 
 Iodide of Mercury 2 grains 
 
 Bichloride of Mercury 5 grains 
 
 Alcohol 10 drams 
 
 Water 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Wash the scalp with soap and water and rub 
 lotion into scalp two or three times a week. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 MERCURY-GLYCERINE TONIC. 
 
 Bichloride of Mercury 6 grains 
 
 Water 5 ounces 
 
 Glycerine 1 ounce 
 
 Spirits of Cologne ij ounces 
 
 Mix. Rub thoroughly into scalp once daily. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 MERCURY-RESORCIN TONIC. 
 
 Bichloride of Mercury 2 grains 
 
 Resorcin 1 J drams 
 
 Glycerine 1 J drams 
 
 Alcohol 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp night and morning with medicine 
 dropper. 
 
 Capsicum Hair Tonics. 
 
 Capsicum is employed as a hair tonic on account of 
 its antiseptic properties and for its power of stimulating 
 the blood supply of the scalp. It is much used alone or in 
 combination, to prevent abnormal shedding of the hair. 
 
Hair Tonics for General Use. 123 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 CAPSICUM CANTHARIDES HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Tincture of Capsicum 20 drops 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 1 dram 
 
 Glycerine 2 drams 
 
 Cologne water, enough to make 6 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply daily to scalp. 
 
 This preparation will be found effective in prevent- 
 ing falling of the hair. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 CAPSICUM — QUININE HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Tincture of Capsicum 1 dram 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides J dram 
 
 Glycerine 2 drams 
 
 Quinine Sulphate 12 grains 
 
 Rose water, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Mix and filter. Apply to scalp once daily. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 CAPSICUM TANNIN HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Oil of Capsicum . 16 drops 
 
 Glycerine 6 drams 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 2 drams 
 
 Tannin 2 drams 
 
 Rose Water 6 ounces 
 
 Mix. Rub well into scalp twice daily. 
 
124 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 CAPSICUM — OIL HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Tincture of Capsicum 4 drams 
 
 Tincture of Cantharides 2 drams 
 
 Stronger solution of Ammonia 4 drams 
 
 Castor oil . 1 ounce 
 
 Spirits of Rosemary, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp once daily. 
 
 Pormicarium Hair Tonic. 
 
 Formicarium is employed as a hair tonic on account 
 of its stimulating properties, and has been highly praised 
 as a hair tonic by some few who profess special knowledge 
 of its properties. This preparation is much used in 
 Germany. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 Spirits Formicarium 1 ounce 
 
 Resorcin 1 dram 
 
 Bichloride of Mercury 2 grains 
 
 Castor oil 2 drams 
 
 Alcohol, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp at bed hour. 
 
 Chloral Hydrate Hair Tonic. 
 
 Chloral Hydrate is widely used on account of its 
 stimulating effect as well as its antiseptic action upon the 
 scalp ; and is much employed to stop annoying irritation or 
 itching, for which purpose it will be found most excellent. 
 
Hair Tonics for General Use. 125 
 
 No. 1, 
 
 « CHLORAL HYDRATE MERCURY HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Chloral hydrate I dram 
 
 Bichloride of Mercury i grain 
 
 Resorcine 30 grains 
 
 Castor oil 20 drops 
 
 s Alcohol, enough to make 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp daily. 
 No. 2. 
 
 £ CHLORAL HYDRATE RESORCIN HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Chloral hydrate \ dram 
 
 Resorcin 30 grains 
 
 Castor oil 15 drops 
 
 Alcohol,, enough to make 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp night and morning. 
 
 Sulphur Hair Tonics. 
 
 By many authorities sulphur is given preference over 
 all other tonic agents for application to the scalp. On 
 account of its insolubility it cannot be used in liquid form 
 and must be applied to the scalp as an ointment. This is 
 the great objection to its use. It is especially indicated as 
 a tonic ointment — used either alone or in combination 
 with other drugs — when the loss of scalp and hair health 
 is due to parasitic disease. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 £ SULPHUR OINTMENT. 
 
 Precipitated Sulphur 1 dram 
 
 B-Napthol \ dram 
 
 Vaseline, enough to make 1 ounce 
 
 Mix. Rub into scalp with finger tips at bed hour. 
 
126 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 SULPHUR RESORCIN OINTMENT. 
 
 Precipitated Sulphur 2.\ drams 
 
 Resorcin \ drani 
 
 Vaseline, enough to make 3 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp at bed hour. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 SULPHUR HAIR LOTION. 
 
 Precipitated Sulphur 2\ drams 
 
 Alcohol 3 drams 
 
 Distilled water 4 ounces 
 
 Rose water 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp at night and wipe off in the 
 morning. Shake well. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 SULPHUR SALICYLIC HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Precipitated Sulphur 2 drams 
 
 Salicylic Acid 30 grains 
 
 Resorcin 1 ounce 
 
 B-Napthol 1 ounce 
 
 Alcohol 3 drams 
 
 Distilled water 4 ounces 
 
 'Rose water 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply at bed hour. Shake well. 
 
Hair Tonics for General Use. 127 
 
 Tannic Acid Hair Tonics. 
 
 Tannic acid is the active principal of the vegetable 
 astringents, and when applied to a part causes contraction 
 of the tissues. It is valuable as a tonic for treating the 
 loss of hair which occurs as the result of excessive sweat- 
 ing due to too great secretions of the scalp glands, with a 
 resultant moist scalp and wet hair. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 £ TANNIC ACID BALSAM TONIC. 
 
 Tannic Acid 90 grains 
 
 Benzoic Acid 120 grains 
 
 Oleo-balsamic mixture 3 drams 
 
 Castor oil 2 ounces 
 
 Alcohol 8 ounces 
 
 Mix, filter and apply to scalp daily. 
 No. 2. 
 
 -£ TANNIN MYRRH TONIC. 
 
 Tannin 1 dram 
 
 Tincture of Myrrh 1 ounce 
 
 Glycerine 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. Rub into scalp three times a week. 
 No. 3. 
 
 -^ TANNIC ACID RESORCIN TONIC. 
 
 Tannic Acid 20 grains 
 
 Chloral hydrate 80 grains 
 
 Resorcin 60 grains 
 
 Tincture of Benzoin 40 grains 
 
 Castor oil 2 drams 
 
 Spirits of Rosemary, enough to make 6 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp at bed hour. 
 
128 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Arnica Hair Tonic. 
 
 Tincture of arnica has been used as a scalp lotion. 
 We cannot see that it offers any particular advantage over 
 other hair tonics, but for those who desire to use Arnica 
 the following tonic will be found one of the best : 
 
 .3 No. 1. 
 
 Tincture of Arnica 12 drams 
 
 Glycerine 4 drams 
 
 Spirit 10 drams 
 
 Water, enough to make 6 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp daily. 
 
 Tar Hair Tonic. 
 
 Tar was formerly thought to possess the property of 
 promoting hair growth. Modern research, however, 
 shows that it possesses no especial advantage over other 
 tonics, while it possesses objections which cannot be over- 
 come. It is disagreeable to use, and it is impossible to 
 permanently disguise its unpleasant odor by the addition 
 of perfume. Its chief field of usefulness is found in 
 treating a scalp in which the loss of hair is thought to be 
 due to an excessive secretion of the sweat glands. The 
 Oil of Cade or Oleum Rusci is the most effective means 
 of applying it. An eminent French authority advocates 
 its use in a combination somewhat resembling the fol- 
 lowing : 
 
 s -No. 1. 
 
 Oil of Cade 2\ ounces 
 
 Decoction of Soap Bark 1 ounce 
 
 Yolk of Egg 1 
 
 Distilled water to make 8 ounces 
 
Hair Tonics for General Use. 129 
 
 Mix the cade and soap bark, then stir in the egg and 
 water. Add three tablespoonfuls to a pint of water and 
 apply as a shampoo one or two times a week. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 # TAR TONIC OINTMENT. 
 
 Oil of Cade 2j drams 
 
 Adepis Lanae 2j drams 
 
 Vaseline 2 drams 
 
 Yellow Oxide of Mercury 15 grains 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp at night. Wear head covering 
 and wash preparation off with soap and water in the 
 morning. 
 
 Crude Petroleum Hair Tonic. 
 
 We cannot leave the subject of hair tonics without a 
 few comments on the use of crude petroleum. This prepa- 
 ration has enjoyed as wide a reputation for promoting the 
 hair growth as any of the simple homely preparations that 
 have been used in times past. 
 
 While crude petroleum is beneficial in treating some 
 conditions of the hair and scalp that are due to abnormal 
 dryness, careful investigation has shown that its virtues 
 have been very much exaggerated. It has not a wide 
 range of usefulness, is not especially effective, and it is 
 disagreeable to apply. There are many other medicinal 
 agents which have more or less of a reputation in the 
 treatment of falling hair which may or may not be due 
 to diseased conditions of the scalp. While it is impossible 
 to touch on all of the remedies advocated in the past, a 
 bare mention of a few of them can be made. 
 
 Croton oil has been used with some slight success, 
 but its use is not recommended on account of its destruc- 
 tive effects on the skin. 
 
 9 
 
130 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Turpentine is sometimes used, but usually in com- 
 bination. 
 
 Carbolic acid has some advocates, but it should never 
 be used stronger than a 2 per cent solution, in which 
 strength it is useless as a scalp antiseptic. 
 
 Tricresol, while it possesses some slight .antiseptic 
 value, if used in sufficient strength to be of benefit causes 
 too great an inflammation of the scalp. 
 
 Chrysarobin is used but rarely, and generally in those 
 cases of suspected parasitic disease of the scalp. 
 
 B-Napthol is used in combination with other medi- 
 cinal agents for its antiseptic effects. 
 
 Grain Alcohol may be used alone or diluted with 
 water when the hair and scalp contain an excessive 
 amount of oil. 
 
 Balsam of Peru has antiseptic properties and serves 
 as a tonic and stimulant to the scalp circulation. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 £ BALSAM OF PERU HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Balsam of Peru J2 grains 
 
 Oil of Bergamot 18 drops 
 
 Alcohol 45 drams 
 
 Glycerine 3 drams 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp daily. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 HAIR OILS— BRILLANTINES— POMADES. 
 
 Hair Oils. 
 
 An efficient hair oil has a wide range of usefulness 
 in the field of hygiene of the hair and scalp. The use of 
 a simple oil is frequently indicated to supply a bland, non- 
 irritating oil after the natural oil has been removed from 
 the hair and scalp by the cleansing action of the shampoo ; 
 and it is invaluable in the treatment of cases of scalp 
 inflammations accompanied by dry and faded conditions 
 of the hair with cracked and split ends. After the appli- 
 cation of hair dyes its use is essential to render the hair 
 smooth, soft, glossy and flexible. 
 
 The preparation of fine hair oil is a simple operation. 
 A pure, bland non-drying oil should be selected as a base, 
 to which any desired medicinal agents and perfume may 
 be added. The oils most suitable to serve as a base are 
 pure olive oil, oil of mustard seed, oil of cotton seed, 
 refined lard oil, or pure paraffine oil. If desired the hair 
 oil may be colored yellow by digesting with curcuma. 
 Annatto will produce an orange color. The addition of 
 alkanet root in the proportion of one ounce to the pint of 
 oil, will produce a beautiful red color. The proper method 
 of applying hair oil has already been described. To secure 
 the best results that method should be closely followed. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 The following preparation will prove a very effi- 
 cient and satisfactory hair oil for use upon a dry scalp and 
 
 (131) 
 
132 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 dry hair. The addition of alkanet root will produce a 
 beautiful red color. 
 
 Castor oil i ounce . 
 
 Alcohol 2 ounces 
 
 Color and perfume to suit 
 
 Mix. Rub thoroughly into the scalp, after which the 
 hair should be brushed. 
 
 Castor oil has the great advantage of being soluble in 
 alcohol, and this preparation can be made thinner or 
 thicker as desired. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 This prescription makes a very clear, beautiful 
 hair oil. 
 
 Pure Castor oil 4 drams 
 
 Cologne spirit 3^ ounces 
 
 Dissolve the oil in spirit. 
 
 Rub thoroughly into the scalp, after which the hair 
 should be thoroughly brushed. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 The following is a very good preparation for increas- 
 ing the growth of the hair when the scalp is dry : 
 
 Sweet oil 4 ounces 
 
 Oil of Lavender i dram 
 
 Mix. Rub into scalp night and morning, and brush 
 the hair frequently. 
 
Hair Oils — Brillantines — Pomades. 133 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 This hair oil is very popular, and is much used in 
 treating thin and falling hair. 
 
 Olive Oil 4 ounces 
 
 Camphor 2 drams 
 
 Dissolve the camphor in the oil by means of 
 
 gentle heat, and perfume with 
 Oil of Thyme i£ drams 
 
 Rub into scalp at bed hour — and thoroughly brush 
 the hair. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 HAIR OIL FOR WHITE HAIR. 
 
 Oil of Cottonseed 4 ounces 
 
 Oil of Red Cedar I drop 
 
 Oil of Geranium 3 drops 
 
 Oil of Cloves 3 drops 
 
 Oil of Citronella I drop 
 
 Oil of Lemon Grass I drop 
 
 Mix. Rub thoroughly into scalp. Brush the hair 
 frequently. 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 The following preparation is a very stimulating hair 
 oil. Its use is indicated when a powerful effect is desired. 
 
 Oil of Almonds 2 ounces 
 
 Oil of Nutmeg i dram 
 
 Oil of Mace expressed \ dram 
 
 Mix. Apply as needed to the scalp and brush the 
 hair thoroughly. 
 
134 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 „ nursery hair oil. 
 
 Benzoin i dram 
 
 Alkannin i dram 
 
 Oil of Staves Acre 2 drams 
 
 Almond Oil 5 ounces 
 
 Macerate for a week with frequent shaking. 
 Filter and add 
 
 Oil of Ylang Ylang 4 drops 
 
 Oil of Neroli 3 drops 
 
 Apply as needed. 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 nursery hair oil. 
 
 Oil of Staves Acre 4 drams 
 
 Olive oil 2 ounces 
 
 Mix. This makes a most excellent oil for use in the 
 nursery. 
 
 No. 9. 
 
 Burdock hair oils have been used extensively with 
 seeming satisfaction, but the following will be found to 
 be an improvement over the Burdock Root hair oil. 
 
 Fatty Oil of Mustard 4 ounces 
 
 Lemon Oil 20 drops 
 
 Oil of Bergamot io drops 
 
 Oil of Cassia 4 drops 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp as needed, followed by a 
 thorough brushing of the hair. 
 
Hair Oils — Brillantines — Pomades. 135 
 
 No. 10. 
 B hair oil for blonde hair. 
 
 Oil of Cottonseed (yellow) 3i ounces 
 
 Oil of Bergamot 2 drams 
 
 Oil of Cassia i^ drams 
 
 Oil of Cloves i dram 
 
 Oil of Thyme (white) 15 drops 
 
 Mix. Color with Annatto, if desired, and apply as 
 needed. 
 
 Macassar Hair Oil. 
 
 In the realm of hair oil a macassar oil enjoys an 
 enviable reputation. We submit one of the best macassar 
 hair oil formulas. It contains benzoated oil, which is a 
 very desirable addition and its perfume is of the best. 
 While this is an expensive preparation it will be found 
 worth all that is paid for it. 
 
 » No. 11. 
 
 Benzoated Oil 3 ounces 
 
 Alkanet Root 1 J drams 
 
 Cassia Buds i-J drams 
 
 Oil of Cinnamon 10 drops 
 
 Oil of Rose Geranium 4 drops 
 
 Oil of Bergamot 2 drops 
 
 Oil of Bitter Almonds 2 drops 
 
 Digest the alkanet and cassia buds in the oil for an 
 hour on a water bath, filter, and add the perfume. 
 
 Directions: Rub thoroughly into the scalp with 
 the tips of fingers. Follow by a thorough brushing of 
 the hair. 
 
136 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Cocoanut Hair Oil. 
 
 Pure cocoanut oil has enjoyed great popularity as an 
 efficient oil dressing for the hair and scalp. It should be 
 used alone, or in combination with some non-drying fatty 
 oil, of which Olive oil or Castor oil are good examples. 
 Castor oil has the advantage of being soluble in alcohol. 
 All genuine cocoanut oils however, deposit on cooling, 
 much of the cocoanut oil which they contain. An analysis 
 of several of the cocoanut oils or cocoanut oil shampoos 
 found on sale show that they contain but little cocoanut 
 oil, some being merely green soap tinctures. 
 
 The following preparation will be found practically 
 free from the objectionable precipitate usually found, and 
 when properly prepared is one of the best cocoanut oil 
 preparations it is possible to obtain. 
 
 * No. 12. 
 
 Cocoanut oil 2 drams 
 
 Castor oil 6 drams 
 
 Melt together, and while still warm add slowly,, 
 with constant stirring 
 
 Alcohol 2 ounces 
 
 Perfume with Oil of Rose Geranium 6 drops 
 
 Directions for Use: Rub thoroughly into the scalp 
 with finger tips, after which the hair should be vigor- 
 ously brushed. 
 
 Note. — Any other perfume may be substituted for 
 the Rose Geranium, if desired. 
 
 BRILLANTINES. 
 
 Brillantines are that class of preparations intended 
 for application to the hair of the head and face in order 
 to restore all the brilliancv that natural hair should 
 
Hair Oils — Brillantines — Pomades. 137 
 
 possess. Its use is indicated on faded hair or hair that 
 is abnormally dry, in order to bestow a natural gloss and 
 render it soft and flexible. Just a few drops brushed into 
 the hair with a small special brush is the proper way of 
 applying it. The results obtained are beautiful. Too 
 much perfume in brilliantine is not desirable. Just suffi- 
 cient to give a faint, elusive odor is best. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 This brilliantine will give satisfaction in every sense. 
 It is agreeable to use and beneficial to the hair. 
 
 Sweet Almond Oil 2 ounces 
 
 Alcohol i ounce 
 
 Glycerine , . 3 drams 
 
 Oil of Rose Geranium 4 drops 
 
 Mix. Shake the bottle. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 This brilliantine will not separate into two layers 
 upon standing as will a brilliantine made from any fixed 
 oil other than Castor oil. This preparation is everything 
 that a good brilliantine should be. 
 
 $ 
 
 Castor oil 6 drams 
 
 Alcohol 10 drams 
 
 Oil of Rose Geranium 3 drops 
 
 Oil of Neroli 3 drops 
 
 Mix and color with tincture of saffron or curcuma 
 if desired. 
 
 Apply as directed above. 
 
138 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 "The Huiles Antiques" imported from France make 
 superior brilliantines when mixed with an equal propor- 
 tion of alcohol. 
 
 HAIR POMADES. 
 
 At one time hair pomades were very extensively em- 
 ployed. In recent years their use is considered not only 
 bad form, but it is now recognized that their constant 
 application will result in harm to the hair and scalp. They 
 attract and retain dirt, and on account of the fat which 
 they contain they frequently decompose, with a resultant 
 characteristically disagreeable odor. This decomposition 
 will create an irritation of the scalp, and disease is invited 
 rather than combated. At the best they supply nothing 
 to the hair and scalp which cannot be secured through 
 other and more elegant agents. 
 
 For the above reasons we have not included formulae 
 for hair pomades, and unless there is some particular 
 indication to exhibit them, we do not recommend their 
 use. 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 HYPERTRICHOSIS— ABNORMAL QROWTH OF HAIR. 
 
 Hy-per-trich-o-sis — Superfluous hair; hairiness. 
 
 Hypertrichosis is the name given to that condition 
 where the growth of hair is greatly in excess of the 
 amount of hair usually found in that location; or to a 
 growth of hair, even though slight in amount, found 
 upon those regions that are normally devoid of hair. 
 Superfluous hair may be congenital or acquired, and is due 
 to the fact that the fetal hair is not shed as it should be, 
 but gradually grows thicker and longer, taking the place 
 of the permanent growth of hair. 
 
 Types illustrating this abnormal growth of hair have 
 been met with in all ages and in all countries. Jo- Jo, the 
 Russian dog-faced boy, whose entire face was covered 
 with thick long hair, may be cited as a comparative modern 
 example. Such instances of excessive hair growth are 
 not of interest to us, but rather that form of superfluous 
 hair found upon the face of women, which usually appears 
 upon the cheeks, lips and chin, and is first noticed between 
 the fifteenth and twenty-fifth years, the growth becoming 
 darker in color and coarser in texture as time passes. 
 This growth in the young consists of fine hairs inter- 
 spersed with coarse, bristly ones, and differs from that 
 found in older women, when the superfluous hair appears 
 upon the face as a result of the menstrual change, and is 
 composed only of the coarse, heavy variety. A growth 
 of hair on the face also occurs as a result of surgical 
 operations, or from the too free use of fatty, oily sub- 
 stances upon the skin of the face. Blondes are apparently 
 
 (139) 
 
140 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 more free than brunettes from the excessive hair growth 
 on the face, but this may be explained by the fact that the 
 hair of blondes is usually of finer texture and of a lighter 
 color, and consequently is more difficult to see. 
 
 Depilatories, Or Hair Removers. 
 
 Depilatories are preparations used for the removal of 
 superfluous hair. The safest preparation is usually a 
 Sulfid or the Sulfhydrate of one of the alkalies or alkaline 
 earths. The older preparations were made with caustic 
 alkalies and were not so safe. The objection to these 
 preparations is the disagreeable odor which they possess; 
 the sulfid of strontium being the least objectionable in this 
 way. These preparations are usually in powder form, and 
 are made into a thin paste with water. After they have 
 been applied in a thin layer to the skin and allowed to 
 remain for a few minutes, they should be scraped off with 
 a blunt instrument, the hair having been so softened that 
 its removal is painless. These preparations should not be 
 allowed to remain on the skin too long as they may cause 
 an eczema, or even sores. To avoid bad after effects, 
 cleanse the skin thoroughly and apply a bland oil. If long 
 hair is to be removed it should be clipped short before the 
 preparation is applied. Depilatories should be kept in 
 colored bottles in the dark, should be kept tightly stop- 
 pered, and should be freshly prepared as their efficiency 
 is impaired with age. 
 
 Treatment of Hypertrichosis. 
 
 If the hair is very fine and downy, the frequent appli- 
 cation of Hydrogen Peroxide will bleach the hairs so that 
 they are hardly noticeable. 
 
 Should it be desirable to remove the hair, this can be 
 accomplished by the application of one of the following 
 
Hypertrichosis — Abnormal Growth of Hair. 141 
 
 prescriptions. Depilatories are used to remove the hair 
 not only from the face, but also from the arm pits if the 
 growth of axillary hair is so abundant as to be unsightly 
 when evening gowns are worn. 
 
 No. 1. 
 calcium sulfid depilatory. 
 
 Calcium Sulfid I ounce 
 
 Zinc Oxide \ ounce 
 
 Starch \ ounce 
 
 Mix and make a fine powder; add Oil of Pepper- 
 mint or Lemon sufficient to disguise the odor. 
 
 Directions: Make into a paste with water and 
 apply lightly to the skin. Leave for ten minutes and 
 remove with water. 
 
 Calcium Sulfid may be prepared by adding a mixture 
 of ten parts of finely powdered lime to nine parts of 
 sulphur. Heat in a crucible below red heat and mix. 
 
 9 No. 2. 
 
 Barium Sulphide 4 drams 
 
 Starch 4 drams 
 
 Zinc Oxide 2 drams 
 
 Mix a small amount with a few drops of water to make a paste. 
 
 Apply to hairy part, leave on two or three minutes, 
 and scrape or wash off. A clean, smooth surface will be 
 left, after which a bland oil should be applied. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 The following preparation is said to be much used in 
 the East in removing hair from the armpits. 
 

 142 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Orpiment ■£ dram 
 
 Lime 4 drams 
 
 Wheat Flour 2 scruples 
 
 Hot water, enough to make a paste. 
 
 Directions: Apply with a wooden spatula to the 
 thickness of a ten cent piece, and allow to remain until a 
 slight irritation of the skin is felt. Scrape off with a 
 blunt edged knife and wash the skin with warm water, 
 after which rice or starch powder should be dusted on. 
 
 On account of the Arsenic contained, it should be 
 used with caution. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 DEPILATORY cream. 
 
 The following formula for depilatory cream is largely 
 used in some prominent Eastern hospitals for the removal 
 of hair from the face or armpits or from the skin of the 
 body, previous to operations. 
 
 Barium Sulphide 3 parts 
 
 Starch 1 part 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Directions: Trim off the excess of hair with the 
 scissors from the part to be denuded. The mixed powder 
 is to be made into a paste with water, and applied in a 
 moderately thick layer to the parts. Examine from time 
 to time and when it is seen that the hair can be removed, 
 the mass should be washed off, and vaseline or cold cream 
 applied. 
 
 The use of depilatories is sometimes attended by 
 more or less irritation to the skin, especially in the hands 
 of the careless or uninformed; hence care should be ob- 
 served in their use. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 THE EYEBROWS. 
 
 A proper conception of the cosmetic possibilities of 
 the brows and lashes, with a fraction of the care that is 
 lavished upon things of far less importance, will bring 
 the most substantial and surprising reward. We confess 
 with regret that modern medical care and cultivation of 
 the brows and lashes has been entirely neglected even by 
 the truly scientific specialist who, while advancing a few 
 theories for the treatment of or for the prevention of 
 disease, has failed to present even one helpful hint for 
 taking advantage of the great promises, in a cosmetic 
 sense, which their proper cultivation would extend. 
 
 One cannot deny the great value of the teeth as an 
 asset of physical beauty; yet reflection will show that the 
 ideal, sharply defined, luxuriant eyebrows and long, curl- 
 ing eyelashes, occupy the premier position as an aid to 
 physical beauty ; for their value lies not alone in their own 
 intrinsic comeliness, but also in producing that symmetry 
 of feature which could not be created by any other means. 
 
 The Eyebrows. The great cosmetic value of the eye- 
 brow as an agent for softening hard facial features, and 
 by contrast enhancing the beauty of the skin, is also evi- 
 denced in creating a proportionate cosmetic value for the 
 nose, brows, and forehead, and accentuating the contour 
 of the face. This fact is unrecognized or unappreciated 
 by the great majority of women, and is taken as a matter 
 of course by practically all men, who accept the presence 
 of this facial adornment in the same spirit as they do 
 
 (143) 
 
144 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 their nose and ears — God-given and practically un- 
 changeable. 
 
 The Perfect Eyebrow is rather far away from 
 the eye, is of uniform thickness throughout its entire 
 extent, and should be so proportioned to the size of the 
 face as to create an impression of a slender arched line. 
 Too thin brows of a light color in a large face do not suffi- 
 ciently emphasize the features, while thick, black eyebrows 
 on a delicate face with small features give a sinister 
 expression. The color of the eyebrows should be slightly 
 darker than the hair, but intensely black eyebrows which 
 do not harmonize with the color of the eyes and hair are 
 unbecoming. 
 
 Anatomy of the Eyebrows. 
 
 The eyebrows are two arched eminences of skin and 
 underlying tissue which surmount the upper circumfer- 
 ence of the orbits of the eyes. They support a growth of 
 short, stiff hairs called Cilia which are implanted at an 
 angle in the skin, with the free ends directed outward. 
 The hair follicles in the brow are not implanted so 
 obliquely in the skin, and the papillae are proportionately 
 shorter and thicker than are those of the scalp; while the 
 sebaceous glands are larger and more fully developed, 
 and the Erector Pili muscles which serve to elevate the 
 hair of the latter are not found in the eyebrows. Move- 
 ments of the eyebrows are dependent upon the action of 
 the underlying Occipito-Frontalis and Corrugator Super- 
 cilii muscles with which the integument of the brow is 
 closely connected. The length of the hair varies from 
 one-third to one inch, and the loss and regeneration of 
 the hair of the eyebrows proceeds much more rapidly 
 than the hairs of the head. Between the thirty-fifth and 
 fortieth years there occurs, frequently in men and some- 
 
The Eyebrows. 145 
 
 times in women, an over growth in the amount and a 
 change in the direction of some hairs of the brows, the 
 so-called "wild hairs'', which render them shaggy and 
 bushy. 
 
 Each brow begins at, or just above the base of the 
 nose in the superior and inner angle of the orbit of the eye, 
 and is continued as a fringe around the upper margin of 
 the orbit, terminating at its upper and outer side. The 
 quantity of hair in the brows varies greatly in abundance, 
 length and color, in different individuals, and usually har- 
 monizes in shade with the hair of the scalp and lashes. In 
 many instances when the growth of hair upon the scalp 
 and over the body is especially abundant, the eyebrows 
 are heavy and connected by an isthmus of hair growth 
 upon or slightly above the root of the nose. The form of 
 the eyebrow is influenced greatly by race, though 
 apparently unaffected by climate. In Europeans the eye- 
 brows usually present a more or less curved line, conform- 
 ing closely to the curve of the orbit; while in the Mon- 
 golian races the brow is arranged in a straighter line, with 
 the outer extremity more elevated and lacking the fuller 
 downward curve usually found among the Caucasians. 
 
 Diseases of the Brows. 
 
 The same systemic diseases which impair the vitality 
 of the hair of the scalp also affect the hair of the brows; 
 so that we find in them a loss of hair following certain 
 systemic diseases such as Typhoid Fever, or constitutional 
 diseases, of which Syphilis is a good example. Pitiriasis 
 or Dandruff is not so prevalent in the brows as in the 
 scalp; and Seborrhoea, which the older writers confused 
 with dandruff, is frequently found. The treatment of 
 these conditions is practically the same as that for treat- 
 ing similar conditions of the scalp. 
 
 10 
 
146 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Agenesia Piliaris is that form of Alopecia, or loss 
 of hair, which affects the eyebrows. It causes an imper- 
 fect development of the outer ends of the eyebrows, and 
 usually occurs before the age of puberty. The treatment 
 to be followed is essentially the same as that given for 
 the cure of Alopecia Areata. 
 
 Ulerythema Ophyrogenes — scarred eyebrozvs — 
 the result of disease. There are two forms — a mild and 
 a severe. 
 
 This disease is usually confined to the eyebrows, the 
 skin becoming thickened and red, and followed by a more 
 or less complete plugging up of the hair follicles. It 
 begins in infancy and lasts through life if proper treat- 
 ment is not adopted to correct it. It is said to occur most 
 often in blondes. In the mild form the outer ends of the 
 brows are affected, while in the severe type the entire 
 brow, and sometimes the hair of the face is involved. In 
 the early stages it results in the formation of fine scars 
 which later may become so numerous as to cause entire 
 loss of hair. It is best treated by Resorcin lotions, for 
 which formulae have been given. 
 
 Defects of the Brows. 
 
 The defects of the brows are : First, Defects in Direc- 
 tion of the Hairs, the result of irregular or faulty growth, 
 due to an improper position of the follicle, which causes 
 the hair to project at an angle either above or below the 
 brow line, thus creating an unkempt appearance ; or to hair 
 "whorls" or "cowlick of the brow" which is usually located 
 at the inner angle where the hair is thickest. 
 
 Second, Defect in the Quantity of the Hair. The 
 inner angle of the brow usually contains a normal quantity 
 of hair, the deficiency being manifested at, or slightly to 
 
The Eyebrows. 147 
 
 the inner side of, the middle of the brow; the amount of 
 hair gradually decreasing toward the outer end. 
 
 Third, Defects in the Texture of the Hair. Usually 
 accompanying the defect in the quantity of the hair is 
 found a corresponding decrease in the texture, the hair 
 shaft being so fine as to partake of the quality of Lanugo 
 or downy hair. 
 
 Fourth, Defects in the Color of the Eyebrows. The 
 color of the eyebrows should be a shade darker than that 
 of the hair of the scalp. The most common defect of 
 coloring is that lighter shade which is a usual accompani- 
 ment of the defects in the quantity and texture of the 
 hair. 
 
 Treatment. 
 
 The treatment for correcting the defects in the direc- 
 tion of hair growth can be summed up in the one word 
 perseverance. Since the hair follicle from which the 
 hair shaft -projects is placed in the eyebrow at an 
 angle, and is responsible for the abnormal position of the 
 hair, means to overcome this faulty position must be pur- 
 sued. This is best accomplished by frequently stroking 
 the hair in such a manner that the improper angle of the 
 follicle may be corrected, and the hair whether arranged 
 in the form of a "cowlick" or projecting outward from the 
 body of the brow, can be trained to grow in the desired 
 direction. It is rarely necessary to remove by plucking the 
 hairs which project in a faulty manner if this process is 
 diligently pursued. Accompanying the stroking process, 
 the application of a hair oil will be found of benefit in 
 maintaining the proper position of the hair. 
 
 Defects in the Quantity and Texture of the 
 Hair can be combated by stimulating the circulation in 
 order that a richer supply of blood be brought to the hair 
 papilla; and by the application of stimulating hair tonics 
 
148 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 and hair oils which possess positive merit for increasing 
 hair growth. The best means for meeting the first indica- 
 tion is massage, which should be applied in the following 
 manner. With the balls of the fingers resting upon the 
 brow move it, w T ith the underlying tissues, by a rapid 
 vibratory movement in all directions, continuing the treat- 
 ment until a sense of tingling and warmth is produced. 
 Do not permit of any slipping or sliding motion of the 
 fingers as this may cause undue strain upon the delicate 
 hair root attachments to the papilla. After massage 
 brush the brows with a soft brush. The best tonics for use 
 are those which contain Pilocarpin, examples of which 
 are found under "Hair Tonics'", since Pilocarpin is one 
 of the few drugs which are known to promote hair growth. 
 It also has the additional properties of slightly darkening 
 the color of the hair. The oils selected should be pure 
 olive oil, sweet almond oil, or white vaseline; or if an 
 ointment is preferred it should be one containing sulphur, 
 formulae for which have been given. 
 
 The methods described for correcting defects in the 
 quantity and texture of the brows may be used to correct 
 defects in coloring, since the color deepens as the hair 
 growth becomes more vigorous. Failing to secure by 
 these means the shade desired, recourse must be had to 
 the use of some one of the following harmless preparations 
 which are advocated for staining or dyeing the brows : 
 
 Methods of Application. 
 
 For applying the dye or stain to the brows two 
 brushes should be provided ; one for applying the dye — of 
 a special thin, flat shape, about one-half to one inch in 
 length and containing one or two rows of rather short, 
 stiff bristles. A brush that contains too many bristles will 
 gum up and become difficult to use without soiling the 
 
The Eyebrows. 149 
 
 adjacent skin by accidental contact. If the proper brush 
 is not available, use a child's tooth brush from which all 
 bristles except the two center rows have been clipped off. 
 If the bristles are clipped in this way it can be used with 
 equal facility upon the brows or lashes without soiling the 
 skin through the medium of a reversed brush. The second 
 brush should be of small size for the purpose of removing 
 an excess of the stain or dye after the application. The 
 hair of the eyebrows should be entirely freed from oil, 
 by washing after the manner described under the chapter 
 on the preparation of the hair for the application of hair 
 dye. 
 
 Harmless Stain for Eyebrows. 
 
 Of the harmless preparations used for tinting the 
 brows, Potassium Permanganate in solution will answer 
 most requirements. Potassium Permanganate crystals 
 readily dissolve in water and when the resulting solution 
 is brought in contact with any organic substance it oxi- 
 dizes and imparts a brown color. The color appears at 
 once, and according to the quantity of permanganate used 
 all shades from blonde to darkest brown may be produced. 
 While the Permanganate solution affects the bristles of 
 the brush used in making the application, it does not affect 
 the hair of the brows and lashes. Of course, the shade 
 imparted is darker or lighter according to the quantity of 
 Permanganate used in making the solution. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 LIGHT BROWN. 
 
 Potassium Permanganate I dram 
 
 Distilled water 2 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply with small brush as needed. 
 
150 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 ^ BROWN STAIN. 
 
 Potassium Permanganate 10 grains 
 
 Rose water 4 drams 
 
 Aqua Ammonia 8 minims 
 
 Water 11 drams 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Free the hair from fat or oil as directed and apply 
 the lotion with a small brush. The stain will take effect 
 immediately. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 HARMLESS BLACK DYE. 
 
 The following preparation has been widely used for 
 dyeing the eyebrows. The dark color produced is due to 
 the presence of carbon, in a state of fine division; hence is 
 perfectly harmless. 
 
 Gum Arabic | dram 
 
 India Ink 50 grains 
 
 Rose water 2 ounces 
 
 Reduce the ink and gum to a very fine powder and 
 add sufficient of the rose water until a black liquid results, 
 which is entirely free from granules ; then add the rest of 
 the rose water. 
 
 Directions for Use: Free the hair from oil by 
 washing, and when dry apply dye with a small brush. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 chestnut or brown bismuth eyebrow stain. 
 
 Bismuth is used in the preparation of stains for the 
 eyebrows on account of its harmless nature. They are 
 slower in action than some stains, and decompose readily 
 
The Eyebrows. 151 
 
 on exposure to the light and air; hence should be kept in 
 well stoppered dark bottles. 
 
 Bismuth Subnitrate -J dram 
 
 Solution of Potassa 10%. 
 Citric Acid, of each sufficient. 
 
 Glycerine 6 drams 
 
 Orange Flower water, enough to make 2 ounces 
 
 Mix the bismuth salt and glycerine by trituration, 
 then heat on a water bath and gradually add solution of 
 Potassa until the bismuth is dissolved. Then add Citric 
 Acid until solution is only slightly alkaline, and add suffi- 
 cient orange flower water to make 2 ounces. 
 
 Directions: Apply as needed with a new tooth 
 brush and comb. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 BLONDE MANGANESE EYEBROW DYE. 
 
 Solution A : 
 
 Potassium Permanganate 40 grains 
 
 Distilled water 2 ounces 
 
 Solution B : 
 
 Sodium Hyposulphite 40 grains 
 
 Distilled water 2 ounces 
 
 Wash eyebrows with the soda solution to remove 
 grease, then rinse thoroughly with warm water and dry 
 with a soft towel. Apply Solution A with a clean tooth 
 brush and comb with a clean comb to evenly distribute the 
 solution. In a short time cleanse the hair with clean water 
 and brush with Solution B until color is lightened. If 
 Solution A is used alone the color will be deepened in- 
 stead of lightened, the depth of the color obtained depend- 
 ing upon the frequency with which the solution is applied. 
 
152 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 GOLDEN HAIR SHADE. 
 
 Remove grease from eyebrows by washing in the 
 usual manner ; dry the hair partially and apply by means 
 of a sponge or soft cloth, Hydrogen Peroxide. Brush 
 brows with small brush to evenly distribute the bleach, 
 and expose freely to the air. If a lighter shade is desired 
 repeat the process once daily for several days. 
 
 On account of the small proportion of iron which it 
 contains, red hair is but little affected, while black hair is 
 affected the most. 
 
 In addition to the formulae given, the formulas for 
 Bismuth dye given under Bismuth Hair Dyes may be used 
 for the brows. 
 
 Eyebrow Pencils. 
 
 Eyebrow pencils or stick cosmetics are grease paints 
 which contain animal fats in combination with vegetable 
 oils and fats, to which are added some coloring substance ; 
 the choice of the latter depending upon the color desired. 
 The preparation is then molded into sticks or a pencil for 
 convenience of application. The heavy grease of which 
 tjhe pencil is composed is not removed by washing, and 
 clogs the mouths of the hair follicles thus impairing the 
 vitality of the hair. They mat the hair together, their 
 use is easily detected upon close observation, and they 
 would emit a foul odor were it not for the perfume they 
 contain. However, for those who prefer a stick or pencil 
 we submit the following formula which is one of the best 
 of its kind. 
 
The Eyebrows. 153 
 
 Ceresin 30 grains 
 
 Petrolatum 45 grains 
 
 Wool fat 45 grains 
 
 White wax 60 grains 
 
 Olive oil 2 drams 
 
 Color to suit 
 
 To prepare, melt the ceresin and white wax together ; 
 add the petrolatum and wool fat, melt and add the oil; 
 add a sufficient quantity of powdered talcum to the selected 
 coloring substance to obtain the desired color, and incor- 
 porate in the fatty mixture. The coloring substance used, 
 depends upon the shade desired. Lamp black, animal 
 charcoal, umber, sienna, eosin, carmine, and many of the 
 aniline colors are used. The whole is then cast into molds 
 of the desired shape and allowed to harden. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE EYELASHES. 
 
 While the brows exert over the features in general 
 a somewhat greater individual influence cosmetically 
 than the lashes, the influence of the latter upon the eyes 
 is proportionately as great, and much more subtile. The 
 beauty of the eye, no matter of what limpid brilliancy, 
 would be lost and would appear hard and cold were it not 
 for the softening influence exerted by thick, curling lashes. 
 The coquettish drooping of the lids, with the soft veiling 
 action of the lashes, would seem horrible and grotesque 
 rather than entrancing were they naked and bare of hair. 
 
 One explanation of the total neglect or the improper 
 care to which the lashes are usually subjected is ignorance 
 of the laws of lash growth, together with a natural tim- 
 idity in making local applications of any cosmetic prepara- 
 tion from fear of injuring the delicate structure of the 
 eye. These fears are futile, since a correct method of 
 cultivation, with the application of harmless preparations, 
 is so simple and safe when the proper knowledge of how 
 and why is once acquired. To one who is aware of the 
 cosmetic possibilities of the lashes as an adjunct of phys- 
 ical comeliness, the apparent neglect of many beautiful 
 women to properly take advantage of the cosmetic goods 
 the gods have provided is difficult to understand. Apart 
 from actresses and professional beauties who make an 
 earnest study of every physical asset to enhance their 
 charms, or the smart, cultivated women of discernment, 
 the over-shadowing value of beautiful lashes is unrecog- 
 nized, for by no other means is the possession of an artistic 
 
 (154) 
 
The Eyelashes. 155 
 
 sense made so apparent as by their proper cultivation and 
 cosmetic care. One prominent actress who is the pos- 
 sessor of long, beautiful, curling lashes, attributes their 
 beauty to her practice of daily anointing her fingers with 
 pure olive oil, with which she strokes upward and down- 
 ward the lashes of the upper and lower lids. 
 
 Anatomy of the Eyelashes. 
 
 The hair of the eyelashes is similar in structure to 
 that of the hair of the brows ; they are short, thick, curved 
 hairs arranged in a double or triple row at the margin of 
 the lids ; those of the upper lid, more numerous and longer 
 than the lower ; curve upward ; those of the lower lid curve 
 downward. Because of their curved form their beauty is 
 not only accentuated, but the two sets of lashes do not 
 interlace in closing the lids. The fall and regeneration 
 of the hair composing the eyelashes proceed in a manner 
 somewhat similar to the hair of the brows. The average 
 length of life of an eyelash is about one hundred and 
 thirty-five days, and as a result hairs in all stages of 
 growth are found. The quantity of hair contained in the 
 lashes varies, as does its color and length, in different 
 individuals, even as the hair found in the scalp, brows, 
 and over the body. Near the attachments of the eyelashes 
 are the openings of the sebaceous glands, and of a number 
 of enlarged and modified sweat glands. On the inner sur- 
 face are the Meibomian glands ; and at the inner angle of 
 the lids there is a triangular space in which we find a small 
 papilla, the apex of which is pierced by a minute orifice — 
 the commencement of the Lachrymal canal or tear duct. 
 At the outer side the eyelids approach one another at an 
 acute angle, and lie closer to the eyeball than on the 
 inner side. Disorders of these glands at the margin of 
 
156 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 the lids are comparatively frequent, and exert a destruc- 
 tive effect upon the growth and beauty of the lashes. 
 
 Diseases of the Eyelashes. 
 
 One often finds on the rims of the eyelids the same 
 scale formation due to Seborrhoea as is found on the 
 scalp, and it may be necessary every morning to free the 
 rims of the eyelids from the small adherent scales. They 
 are best removed with a little cotton dipped in luke warm 
 water, to be followed by the use of the succeeding 
 prescription. 
 
 Sodium Borate 10 grains 
 
 Camphor water i ounce 
 
 Mix. Inject two or three drops in eye with a medicine 
 dropper three times daily. 
 
 This preparation will be found most excellent for 
 hot, inflamed eyes. On account of the number of small 
 glands which the lids contain, the lashes are subjected to 
 the effects of glandular inflammations or to the presence 
 of styes or small boils at the hair root. Such conditions 
 should be promptly treated in order to avoid complications 
 which may injure or destroy lash growth. 
 
 Defects of the Lashes. 
 
 The defects of the lashes most commonly met with 
 are those of, first, faulty position. This may be the result 
 of disease, an injury, or as a consequence of the improper 
 angle of the hair follicle with the lid rim, which causes 
 the hair to project from the normal lash line. The cor- 
 rection of this condition is purely surgical. If the hairs 
 project inward against the eyeball and are only one or 
 
The Eyelashes. 157 
 
 two in number they may be removed by plucking ; if many 
 in number, a slight operation will be required. 
 
 Second, defects in coloring. The defects in coloring 
 may be classified as follows: First, The Congenital 
 Form, due to an entire lack of natural pigment or 
 coloring matter from birth. In this variety the lack of 
 color is uniform, and a color can only be obtained by the 
 local application of a stain or dye. Second, The Acquired 
 Form, usually due to accident or disease, and character- 
 ized by the presence of one or more white hairs 
 scattered throughout the extent of the lash. The 
 acquired form is corrected by the treatment of the cause 
 producing it, and by the plucking out of the white hairs 
 in the attempt to force a growth of normally colored 
 lashes. It is, of course, possible to color these white hairs 
 by the use of stains or dyes that will not irritate the eyes. 
 
 The Rules of Hygiene as laid down for the care 
 of the hair and brows should be followed in the care of the 
 lashes. Any inflammatory condition which tends to inter- 
 fere with lash growth should be corrected. If the lash 
 growth is slight or the lashes are dry with split ends, the 
 ends of the lashes should be clipped off below the cleft, the 
 eyelids cleansed with Boric Acid Solution, and warm Olive 
 oil should be applied; or if preferred an antiseptic, non- 
 irritating ointment may be used. Much has been said 
 concerning the accidental introduction of an ointment or 
 oil into the eye; should the usual harmless oil or ointment 
 prescribed be accidentally introduced, nothing more than 
 a momentary feeling of discomfort will result. 
 
 The eyelashes are very important organs of protec- 
 tion as well as agents of beauty, and their health should 
 be conserved. Their loss is very disfiguring, although at 
 one time the dictates of fashion decreed that the eyebrows 
 and eyelashes should be plucked from the face. The 
 
158 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 results of this operation were so barbarous from a cos- 
 metic point of view that to our best knowledge it is the 
 only freak of fashion that has never been revived. When 
 the eyelashes have been lost from any cause, attempts 
 have been made to create the appearance of lashes by 
 numerous little tattooes along the rims of the lids. Results 
 of such operations, however, are very unsatisfactory. 
 Transplantation of hair has also been attempted with but 
 poor results. 
 
 The treatment of defects in the coloring of the lashes 
 resolves itself into the application of a harmless stain or 
 dye, and the preparations used for staining the eyebrows 
 can be used with perfect safety upon the eyelashes, pro- 
 viding no diseased condition is present, and if care in mak- 
 ing the application is exercised; for the delicate structures 
 of the eye may be injured by the careless application of 
 even pure water. The small brushes used in applying the 
 dyes to the eyebrows may be used for a similar purpose 
 upon the eyelashes. 
 
 Method of Application. 
 
 Two brushes similar in size and shape to those used 
 in applying dye to the eyebrows should be provided. 
 
 To apply — moisten the bristles with the liquid and 
 apply only to the tips of the lashes as the fluid will spread 
 over and stain the basal portions. 
 
 This can be accomplished by holding the brush sta- 
 tionary against the tips of the lashes and gently rotating 
 the head; by sweeping the tips of the lashes across the 
 brush in the act of opening and closing the eyes; or if 
 preferred, beginning at the inner side of the lash and 
 moving the brush slowly round to the outer angle, stain- 
 ing the hair in its passage. Be particular to thoroughly 
 
The Eyelashes. 159 
 
 stain the lashes of the inner angle. After the lashes have 
 been gone over, close the lids sufficiently to bring the 
 lashes in slight contact and retouch their ends if necessary. 
 When the stain has become perfectly dry, remove any 
 excess dye by brushing with a clean soft brush. Artist- 
 ically applied in this manner the stain will defy detection. 
 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 MUSTACHE AND BEARD. 
 
 One of the distinguishing characteristics of the male 
 sex is the growth of hair which first appears on the face 
 at the age of puberty. At the same time the corresponding 
 sebaceous glands develop and become more active. The 
 hair growth on the upper lip is known as the mustache; 
 while the hair on the chin and adjacent parts is called the 
 beard. 
 
 The hair of the mustache and beard seems to partake 
 of the qualities of both long and short hair, their texture 
 being coarser than the typical long hair of the scalp, and 
 longer than the short hair of the eyebrows and lashes. 
 The mustache if left uncut usually attains a length about 
 mid-way between that of the hair of the eyebrows and 
 the beard ; and while the average beard length is six 
 inches, in some cases it has attained a length of several 
 feet. 
 
 The same general laws which govern the health and 
 growth of the hair upon other parts of the body are appli- 
 cable to the hair of the face. The presence on the face of 
 a luxuriant growth of hair long after the scalp has become 
 bald may be explained by the fact that it is of much later 
 growth than the scalp hair; and that the face does not 
 contain the fibrous tissue found in the scalp which by its 
 contraction destroys hair soil. A stricter observance of 
 the laws of hygiene made necessary to preserve its appear- 
 ance, and the unexplained phenomenon of that influence 
 which has been characterized as a "decorative impulse of 
 Nature," are also factors. 
 
 (160) 
 
Mustache and Beard. 161 
 
 While the growth of hair on the face of the male is 
 considered a badge of virility as well as a means of adorn- 
 ment, when found on the face of the female it constitutes 
 an abnormal disfigurement. 
 
 The care and cultivation of the hair of the face has 
 occupied much time and attention through the long ages 
 of the past to the present time. Formerly an abundant 
 hair growth was considered an object of veneration, and 
 an oath sworn by the beard was sacred and binding. Later 
 it lost its religious significance and was worn purely as 
 an object of personal adornment. Today its influence as 
 a cosmetic factor is waning, until the appearance of a 
 heavy beard or a luxuriant mustache is rarely seen ; which 
 fact serves as an interesting commentary on the influence 
 of hygiene upon fashion. The mustache as worn today is 
 close cropped or worn short with pointed ends, and does 
 not interfere with oral or facial cleanliness. The beard 
 if worn at all is closely trimmed. 
 
 Aside from those preparations used to satisfy the 
 hygienic demands of the hair of the face, and which are 
 identical with those used to meet the requirements of scalp 
 hair, the cosmetic applications most used upon the mus- 
 tache and beard are those which serve to create and main- 
 tain their desired form and position, or as a special 
 dressing to preserve their softness and lustre. 
 
 Stick Mustache Wax. 
 
 Waxes for the mustache are much used abroad. The 
 following preparations will be found useful in creating a 
 lustre and in maintaining that arrangement of the hair 
 which is most pleasing. 
 
 11 
 
162 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 TUBEROSE JASMINE WAX. 
 
 White wax i ounce 
 
 Suet i ounce 
 
 Tuberose pomade 3 drams 
 
 Jasmine pomade 4 drams 
 
 In preparing, melt the wax, add the suet, and then 
 the pomades of tuberose and jasmine. 
 Apply as needed. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 ODORLESS MUSTACHE WAX. 
 
 Spermaceti 1 dram 
 
 White or yellow wax 7 drams 
 
 Olive oil 10 drams 
 
 Melt the spermaceti and wax, then add the oil with 
 constant stirring. Apply as needed. 
 
 These preparations are colorless. If it is desirable 
 to deepen the color of the moustache, the addition of 
 burnt Umber will give a brown color; the addition of 
 animal charcoal or lamp black will give a black color. If 
 a colored preparation is desired, yellow wax may be sub- 
 stituted for the white wax. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 MUSTACHE WAX. 
 
 This preparation when applied to the ends of the 
 mustache will preserve the fine points which so many 
 desire. 
 
Mustache and Beard. 163 
 
 White wax I ounce 
 
 Lard 4 drams 
 
 Venice turpentine 4 drams 
 
 Gum elemi 50 grains 
 
 Melt together with heat and then stir until cool. 
 Apply as needed. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 MUSTACHE DRESSING. 
 
 This preparation will impart stiffness to the mustache 
 and beard, and prevent that drooping weakness which is 
 so objectionable. 
 
 Mastic 1 dram 
 
 Sandarac 2 drams 
 
 Resin 4 drams 
 
 Alcohol . . 2 ounces 
 
 Ether 2 drams 
 
 Perfume extract to suit 2 drams 
 
 Mix and stir until a perfect solution results, then 
 strain. 
 
 BEARD LIQUID. 
 
 Preparations for the purpose of imparting gloss to 
 the hair of the beard, and maintaining a fashionable mode 
 of wearing it are much used abroad. The following for- 
 mulae are those most in vogue. The frequency of applica- 
 tion depends upon the personal taste of the one using them. 
 They should be applied by means of a small comb or brush. 
 
 
 j 
 
164 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 BEARD LIQUID. 
 
 Rose water 4 ounces 
 
 Honey 5 drams 
 
 Spirit 75 minims 
 
 Capillar syrup 75 minims 
 
 Glycerine 40 minims 
 
 Salicylic Acid 2 grains 
 
 Mix. Apply as needed. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 BEARD LIQUID. 
 
 Distilled water 3J ounces 
 
 Spirit 6 drams 
 
 Dextrine 75 grains 
 
 Mix. Apply as needed. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 BEARD LIQUID. 
 
 1' 
 
 Rose water 4 ounces 
 
 Spirit 4 drams 
 
 Dextrine 2 drams 
 
 Salicylic Acid 7^ grains 
 
 Mix. Apply as needed. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 THE PREVENTION OF GRAY HAIR. 
 
 The various hues of the hair are due to the presence 
 of amorpheous brown and black pigments which are 
 grouped under the name of Melanins. We possess little 
 analytical data about the composition of this pigment, and 
 for that reason chemical research has not succeeded so 
 far in creating a natural pigment in an artificial way. 
 The source of this pigment is without a doubt the coloring 
 matter of the blood; but the chemical changes which take 
 place in producing it, are not understood. The pigment 
 of the hair is created in a manner similar to that of the 
 skin, where it is found only in those active cells of the 
 corium or inner skin which are surrounded by blood ves- 
 sels. It reaches the epidermis or outer skin by proto- 
 plasmic movement, through the agencies of the oval or 
 round pigment cells found in the deepest layer of the Epi- 
 dermis, and which possess short branches that project 
 downward into the corium. These branches connect with 
 the pigment carrying cells, which convey to them the pig- 
 ment that has been obtained indirectly from the blood. 
 That the pigment is not obtained directly from the blood 
 but is the result of chemical changes, with the formation 
 of a new product called Melanin, which occur after it is 
 taken, is proved by the fact that in its changed character 
 it does not react to tests for iron as does Hemosiderin, a 
 product directly obtained from the blood; and also that 
 it is always found within the pigment carrying cells, while 
 hemosiderin is found without. While these pigment 
 carrying cells are true connective tissue cells, they have 
 
 (165) 
 
166 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 been given a special name by some writers who call them 
 Melanoblasts ; by others they are called Chromatophor 
 cells. The pigment carrying cells which carry the 
 coloring matter to the hair are found in the hair 
 papilla, the cells found on the lower part and neck being 
 large, while those on the top are small. The pigment 
 cells are found imbedded in the concavity of the hair 
 root which surrounds or encapsulates the hair papilla, and 
 touch the surface of the papilla only with one side of their 
 circumference. They possess branches which pass up- 
 ward between the matrix cells of the cortex where they 
 begin to harden. The cortical cells of light colored hair 
 do not contain pigment, but those of dark hair contain 
 grains of pigment which vary from a yellow to a blackish 
 brown color. A short distance up in the hair matrix, the 
 branches of pigment cells form a net-work which is in 
 close connection with the cortical cells of the third or 
 fourth row of the hair shaft. 
 
 Means to increase the pigmentary deposit by stimu- 
 lating the activity of the cells described have long been 
 sought. Of the various drugs used for this purpose, 
 Pilocarpin for some time was considered one of the best. 
 Its use is attended with a marked stimulation of all the 
 glands of the body, and it is free from irritant properties. 
 It is applied locally in solution to the hair and scalp, or it 
 may be given by hypodermic injection or by the mouth. 
 There are cases on record in which it is claimed that the 
 continued internal use of Pilocarpin caused the hair to 
 become exceedingly coarse and to change its color from 
 light to dark, but we do not believe that these claims can be 
 sustained as a result of the conclusions based upon modern 
 research work. While Pilocarpin is a most excellent hair 
 tonic and stimulant and perhaps possesses the power of 
 slightly darkening the color of the hair, we do not believe 
 
The Prevention of Gray Hair. 167 
 
 it possesses the property of stimulating the deposit in hair 
 to such an extent that its use will prevent the hair from 
 turning gray, or that the original darker color can be 
 restored through its influence. In the general chapter on 
 hair tonics, pilocarpin has been considered and several 
 formulae containing it in the most effective degree of 
 combination may be found. Other drugs of this class 
 might be considered, but the same general conclusions 
 have been reached as in the case of Pilocarpin. 
 
 Acetic Acid 
 
 Of the drugs used which have some power of restor- 
 ing the natural color to the hair, or to prevent the hair 
 from losing its color and turning gray, Acetic acid in solu- 
 tion is the most valuable. Acetic acid is an antiseptic and 
 stimulant of a high order, and in the proper combination 
 it makes an ideal hair tonic ; for which purpose it has been 
 extolled highly by some of the most eminent English 
 authorities in the treatment of falling hair and various 
 scalp diseases. In addition to its local action on the hair 
 and scalp it is the only preparation which has, to the best 
 of our belief, any virtue for preventing the hair from 
 turning gray by stimulating the activity of the pigment 
 carrying cells, thereby increasing the deposit of the natu- 
 ral coloring matter. We have used Acetic acid alone and 
 in combination, with the utmost satisfaction in many cases. 
 
 If the scalp and hair contains much oil, the amount 
 of Glycerine or Castor oil in the following preparations 
 should be diminished or entirely omitted. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 ACETIC ACID HAIR VIGOR. 
 
 This preparation is an efficient tonic and scalp anti- 
 septic, and will stimulate the deposit of the natural color- 
 
168 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 ing matter of the hair. It is especially valuable when 
 applied to scalp and hair that are greasy or oily. 
 
 9 
 
 Acetic Acid, U. S. P 2 drams 
 
 Resorcin 1 dram 
 
 Spirits Odorati 1 ounce 
 
 Rose water, enough to make 4 ounces 
 
 Rub thoroughly into scalp every second or third day. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 The combination of Acetic Acid and Borax increases 
 the antiseptic properties of this preparation. The medici- 
 nal effect is the same as No. 1, but containing Glycerine, 
 it should not be used on oily hair. 
 
 ACETIC ACID BORAX HAIR VIGOR. 
 
 Acetic Acid, U. S. P 3 drams 
 
 Pulverized Borax 45 grains 
 
 Glycerine ij drams 
 
 Alcohol 3 drams 
 
 Rose water, enough to make 6 ounces 
 
 Rub thoroughly into scalp every second or third day. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 The medicinal effect of this preparation is practically 
 the same as the preceding, with the exception that the 
 addition of Red Peruvian Bark adds the virtue of a 
 quinine tonic. 
 
The Prevention of Gray Hair, 
 acetic acid — bark hair vigor. 
 
 169 
 
 Acetic Acid, U. S. P J ounce 
 
 Tincture of Red Peruvian Bark i ounce 
 
 Castor Oil I ounce 
 
 West India Bay Rum 3 ounces 
 
 Essence of White Rose J ounce 
 
 Rub thoroughly into scalp two or three times a week. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 This preparation is an efficient tonic and scalp anti- 
 septic, its stimulative effects being similar to that of pre- 
 scription No. 1. The addition of glycerine however, 
 makes it more suitable for application to scalp and hair 
 that contain but little natural oil. More glycerine may be 
 added if desired. 
 
 ACETIC ACID - RESORCIN HAIR VIGOR. 
 
 Acetic Acid, U. S. P 3 drams 
 
 Resorcin 24 grains 
 
 Spirits Odorati i-J ounces 
 
 Glycerine 2 drams 
 
 Rose water, enough to make 6 ounces 
 
 Rub thoroughly into scalp every second or third day. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 GRAY HAIR. 
 
 Gray Hair — Canities (kan-ish-e-ez) , Whiteness or 
 grayness of the hair; decoloration of the hair. 
 
 Gray hair is caused by the partial or complete failure 
 of the pigment granules to form in the papilla or in the 
 hair bulb, and as the hair gradually grows upward it 
 shows a gray or an uncolored hair. The lack of pigment 
 alone would produce a yellowish white color; while the 
 silvery or perfect white shade is due to the fact that there 
 is not only loss of pigment, but also a change in the hair 
 texture, so that small air spaces are formed in the cortical 
 layer of the hair shaft which become filled with air and 
 refract the light in such a way that the silvery white color 
 is produced. This formation of air cells in the cortical 
 layer is accompanied by a roughness or unevenness of the 
 cuticle or outside covering of the hair, which assists in 
 refracting equally to all sides the white light of the air 
 cells. The varying shades of grayness depend of course 
 upon the amount of pigment found in the cortex. 
 
 Gray hair is usually considered as due to age, to some 
 disturbance of the pigmentary deposit due to disease, or 
 to some unknown cause which, while interfering with the 
 amount of pigment formed, is not necessarily accom- 
 panied by any apparent change of hair health. In some 
 instances the hair may be gray from birth, when it is due 
 to congenital defects of the pigment forming cells. Gray- 
 ness may be congenital or acquired, partial or complete, 
 and slow or sudden in its onset. 
 
 (170) 
 
Gray Hair. 171 
 
 Congential Gray Hair. 
 
 Hair that is gray or white from birth includes all 
 cases in which there is a congenital absence of pigment; 
 as in the case of Albinos. In Albinism this congenital 
 absence of pigment includes the entire skin surface, the 
 hair, and the Choroid Coats and Irides of the eye. Owing 
 to this lack of pigment without apparent change in the 
 hair texture, the color of the hair is not modified by a 
 gray shade, and presents a uniformly yellowish white 
 color. In other instances the scalp is marked by the occur- 
 rence of white patches of hair, usually round in shape and 
 of large or small size. This form of congenital grayness 
 seems to be due in part to the influence of heredity, as the 
 gray spots frequently appear among several members of 
 succeeding generations in certain families. 
 
 Treatment of Congenital Gray Hair. 
 
 Congenital gray hair, or hair that is gray from birth, 
 requires the same care and attention to promote hair 
 health and growth as normal colored hair. Since there is 
 an entire absence of hair pigment it is of course impossible 
 by cultivation alone to acquire colored hair. One can 
 however, by the use of harmless modern stains or dyes 
 produce a shade so simulating a natural color as absolutely 
 to defy detection, and without incurring injurious conse- 
 quences to the hair and scalp. Cases of congenital gray- 
 ness are so rare, however, that the subject hardly merits 
 more than passing mention. The rules of hygiene as 
 described should be carefully followed out to promote the 
 general health of the hair, and the selection of a suitable 
 stain can be made from those given for staining and dyeing 
 acquired gray hair. 
 
172 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Acquired Gray Hair. 
 
 Acquired gray hair is divided into two classes. Pre- 
 mature gray hair, or hair that begins to turn gray before 
 the fortieth or forty-fifth year; and senile gray hair, or 
 hair that has become gray as a result of the changes coin- 
 cident with age. Many authorities comment on the differ- 
 ence in texture which they believe exists between prema- 
 ture and senile gray hair, asserting that the texture of 
 premature gray hair is coarser, with a rougher surface 
 than that possessed by normal hair; while in the senile 
 gray hair there exists no difference in texture as a result 
 of the change from colored to uncolored hairs. Insomuch 
 as the color of acquired senile white hair is due not only 
 to a loss of pigment, but also to the presence in the Cortex 
 of air cells filled with air, and to an unevenness of the 
 hair shaft, it is my belief that hair which turns white in 
 adult life from any cause, presents a larger, coarser, and 
 slightly rougher hair shaft than the original colored hair. 
 
 In the acquired form of gray hair the change from 
 colored to uncolored hairs proceeds more or less rapidly, 
 and is seemingly affected through hereditary influence, by 
 the texture and color of the individual hair, and by acci- 
 dent or disease. In the acquired form apparently not in- 
 fluenced by accident or disease, the hair of the temples is 
 usually affected first, the grayness gradually spreading 
 over the sides and top of the head, although this process 
 may begin over any part of the scalp. The grayness usu- 
 ally appears first at the roots of the hair. The darker the 
 original color of the hair, the more apt it is to turn gray, 
 and earlier in life than hair of lighter shades. 
 
 Many instances are on record where the hair sud- 
 denly turned gray from shock, fright, or sickness; but the 
 acquired gray or white color is usually due to some disor- 
 
Gray Hair. 173 
 
 der of nutrition of the hair papilla which interferes with 
 the function, or the natural deposition of the hair pigment, 
 together with an accompanying change in hair texture. 
 The pigment forming power alone may be affected, the 
 papilla in all other respects being normal and the general 
 health of the hair and the color of the scalp remaining 
 unchanged. 
 
 There is no Direct Connection Between Gray Hair 
 and Falling Hair, if the Grayness is not Due to Some Dis- 
 eased Condition, or to the Natural Changes Due to Age. 
 As stated, heredity is an important factor in the causation 
 of acquired gray hair, the members of some families 
 almost without exception turning gray early in life. Gray 
 hair is more common among men than women; and 
 chronic diseases, excesses, nervous irritability, constant 
 exposure of the hair to extremes of heat and cold; the 
 frequent wetting and incomplete drying of the scalp, espe- 
 cially if cold water be used; or any cause which lowers 
 the body vitality, such as early menstrual change in 
 women, may cause gray hair. 
 
 Treatment of Acquired Gray Hair. 
 
 Gray hair which is the result of either constitutional 
 or local disease or both, can be greatly benefited by adopt- 
 ing those means to acquire and maintain the fullest vigor 
 of the body. If constitutional disease is present the use of 
 iron, phosphorus and sulphur, either alone or in conjunc- 
 tion with other and appropriate remedial agents is recom- 
 mended, especially if there is a marked physical debility. 
 
 Individuals who are predisposed to gray or falling 
 hair can accomplish much by practicing systematic mas- 
 sage, together with the use of specific remedial agents, to 
 preserve the texture and color, as well as to stimulate the 
 growth, of new hair. Massage action serves to increase 
 
174 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 the blood supply, thereby increasing the nourishment 
 of the hair; the functions of all the glandular struc- 
 tures in the scalp are regulated, promoting hair health; 
 and the elimination of waste and poisonous matters from 
 the scalp is hastened. The medicinal applications must of 
 necessity be devoid of harmful effects when applied to the 
 hair and skin ; and must prevent or cure the ravage of dis- 
 eases which effect the health of the hair papilla, and supply 
 the natural elements when absent, which conserve the 
 strength of the old hair and assist in stimulating the 
 growth and coloring of the new hair. The proper method 
 of shampooing the hair and scalp should be followed, and 
 a selection of the proper bleaching, staining, or dyeing 
 preparations may be made from the wide range of for- 
 mulae found in the following pages. 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 BLEACHING THE HAIR. 
 
 Bleaching the hair is that process by which the nat- 
 ural pigment that gives color to the hair is removed wholly 
 or in part by some bleaching agent, thereby producing a 
 lighter shade. The color of the hair may be lightened by 
 bleaching, or by the application of a dye, in which case a 
 bleaching agent must be used to decolorize the hair before 
 its application, in order that one may secure a uniform 
 shade, and to permit of its perfect penetration. The 
 bleaching process is not necessary to obtain a darker color, 
 and for this reason hair restorers enjoy a wide popularity 
 since by their action they restore gray, faded hair to its 
 original darker color. 
 
 The process of bleaching is accomplished by the em- 
 ployment of various bleaching agents; and washing the 
 hair in a Carbonate of Soda solution, or a Soda solution 
 to which a few drops of Ammonia have been added, has 
 been widely used. The application of lemon juice and hot 
 water has also found favor, especially in removing the yel- 
 lowish color and creating the white, lustrous tint in white 
 hair ; under which subject the method of using is treated at 
 length. Another, but inferior way of applying lemon juice 
 is to entirely remove the peel from the lemon, divide it into 
 sections, and apply the juice directly from the cut surface 
 by rubbing it upon the hair and scalp. If all the rind is 
 not removed slightly discolored streaks may result. 
 
 Lemon Juice Hair Bleach. 
 
 The lemon juice treatment will lighten the color of 
 Blonde, Chestnut, or Brown Hair, and is harmless if not 
 
 (175) 
 
176 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 used to excess — its application once in from three to four 
 weeks is usually enough. To lighten the shade, first 
 shampoo with soap and water and while the hair is still 
 moist and warm saturate it with lemon juice which should 
 be allowed to remain for ten or fifteen minutes. During 
 this time the warmth of the scalp may be maintained by 
 wrapping it in a warm towel; follow this by rinsing the 
 hair with warm soft water and dry in the sun, using warm 
 soft towels with repeated shaking to assist the drying 
 process. 
 
 Peroxide of Hydrogen is the most active single 
 agent for bleaching the hair. The objections to its use are 
 that it has a tendency to make the hair dry and brittle. It 
 may be used in full strength, diluted with water, or with 
 the addition of a few drops of chemically pure Ammonia, 
 the strength being dependent upon the texture of the hair 
 and the shade desired. To change the shade of black or 
 dark brown hair into a chestnut or auburn by the bleaching 
 process, a full strength solution of a reliable peroxide must 
 be used; if to this solution a few drops of chemically pure 
 ammonia is added a golden hair shade will result. For 
 hair of a lighter shade, or for very fine hair, a diluted solu- 
 tion of peroxide to which ammonia may or may not be 
 added would be required. 
 
 Very rapid bleaching due to the too frequent applica- 
 tion of peroxide, or the use of a very strong peroxide 
 solution to which ammonia in excess has been added, will 
 result in dry, brittle hair. When ammonia is used it 
 should be chemically pure and not greater in proportion 
 than one to twenty of peroxide. The first application 
 should result in changing the shade of black to dark chest- 
 nut; dark brown to light chestnut; brown to golden 
 brown; light brown to light golden; and dark blonde to 
 
Bleaching the Hair. 177 
 
 light blonde. After the application of peroxide of hydro- 
 gen the hair should be shampooed, else the decoloration 
 will continue for several days, resulting in failure to 
 obtain the exact shade desired and injurious consequences 
 to the hair. Before applying any bleaching agent or dye 
 the hair should be rendered absolutely clean by a thorough 
 shampoo, in order to remove all traces of oil or foreign 
 matter. Occasionally the action of a bleaching agent or 
 dye is not uniform ; this is usually due to the fact that the 
 hair has not been thoroughly cleansed of oil, with a con- 
 sequent failure of the bleaching agent or dye to penetrate 
 the hair shaft, or to the fact that the soap used in the 
 shampoo mixture was impure. The best shampoo mixture 
 is made from pure white soap and water and applied in 
 the manner described under The Shampoo. To this may 
 be added a teaspoonful of Carbonate of Soda to a pint of 
 the shampoo mixture if the hair and scalp contain much 
 oil. Remove all oil by repeated rubbing and rinsing, and 
 to the final rinse water a little Acetic Acid or lemon juice 
 is sometimes added. Complete the shampoo by thoroughly 
 drying the hair and scalp with warm, soft towels. 
 
 Method of Applying Peroxide of Hydrogen. 
 
 Separate the hair into four sections by making the 
 first parting from front to back along the middle line of 
 the scalp; the second part should be made across the top 
 of the head from ear to ear; then subdivide each quarter 
 section into half-inch sections. If other ingredients are 
 added to the peroxide, a quantity sufficient to complete the 
 bleaching process should be made before the application, 
 in order that the bleaching agent may be of uniform 
 strength. Pour a small quantity of the bleaching agent in 
 a saucer and apply to the hair by means of a tooth brush, 
 or any other small brush desired ; and begin by making the 
 
 12 
 
178 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 first application to the front hair as the hair here is more 
 difficult to treat. The brush should not contain an excess 
 of liquid as the application must be evenly made, and the 
 hair so held that any excess fluid will flow toward the 
 scalp ; otherwise the hair points may be of a lighter shade 
 than the roots. Combing the hair with a fine toothed comb 
 aids in obtaining an even distribution of the liquid and 
 exposes it more thoroughly to the action of the air. After 
 the hair is dry it may be retouched as needed, then a final 
 drying, after which it should be again washed. 
 
 To Bleach the Roots of the Hair. 
 
 Divide the hair into small sections as directed, and 
 make a knot in the hair a short distance from the scalp to 
 prevent the liquid running toward the ends ; then apply the 
 peroxide on both sides of the divided sections. The per- 
 oxide should be left on the roots for ten or fifteen minutes 
 before drying. Cold, hard water should never be used 
 when preparing the hair for bleaching as a deposit of lime 
 or iron may be left which would interfere with the 
 decolorizing. 
 
 Red hair is but little affected by the bleach because of 
 the small proportion of iron present. Black hair is 
 affected the most. 
 
 To impart a bright lustre to faded hair the following 
 preparation may be used after the application of a plain 
 shampoo. 
 
 Ammonia (chemically pure), 10% U. S. 
 
 P i tablespoonf ul 
 
 Peroxide of Hydrogen 2 tablespoonfuls 
 
 Warm soft water 1 quart 
 
 Mix and pour over the hair and scalp. 
 
 The hair should be thoroughly rubbed with the fingers 
 to insure uniform action. Dry without further rinsing. 
 
CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 HAIR DYE5. 
 
 Hair dyes are substances used in giving color to the 
 hair. A perfect dye must possess a certain chemical 
 affinity to the hair substance; it must not only remain on 
 the surface of the hair, but should dye it through and 
 through, else it would be easily removed by rubbing, wash- 
 ing with soap and water, or in other ways; and it should 
 be harmless to the hair and scalp. 
 
 There may be some slight variation in the action of 
 dyes upon different kinds of hair, due to a difference in 
 texture and to some slight variation of the absorbing 
 properties of hair for pigments, as well as slight deviations 
 in the chemical constituents of the hair of different people. 
 These slight differences however, would not affect in 
 any manner the results obtained if the dye is good and the 
 application is intelligently made. 
 
 Hair dyes may be classified in several ways. Pro- 
 gressive dyes, or hair restorers, which exert a progressive, 
 or gradual restorative action on the hair, and which re- 
 quire a longer or shorter period of time, according to the 
 nature of the dye, before the shade desired is produced; 
 and Instantaneous Dyes, or dyes that produce the desired 
 color almost instantly. 
 
 A second classification is sometimes made according 
 to whether or not the dye is made from vegetable extracts 
 or mineral salts. Of the dyes used, those obtained from 
 the vegetable kingdom, as well as many mineral dyes, are 
 usually considered harmless to the hair and scalp; while 
 
 (179) 
 
180 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 some mineral dyes may not be free from danger, especially 
 to those who have a diseased or abraded scalp, and also to 
 those who may possess an idiosyncrasy toward certain 
 minerals. 
 
 Dyes containing metal salts are practically all instan- 
 taneous dyes, and are preferred by some on account of the 
 fact that they require much less time to produce the de- 
 sired shade. These dyes are frequently made up in two 
 solutions, and applied one after the other, the mixing of 
 the two taking place on the hair; or they may be mixed 
 and then applied. These solutions are known as, A, the 
 dye; B, the Mordant, or fixer, which latter is usually 
 applied first. 
 
 In ancient times the practice of dyeing the hair was 
 fraught with more or less danger, due to ignorance of 
 proper dye stuffs and improper methods of applying them. 
 Today this condition of danger has been largely dissi- 
 pated, for among our modern hair dyes we are able to 
 find preparations which satisfy in most cases all demands 
 on shades, genuineness and harmlessness. 
 
 HAIR RESTORERS. 
 
 Hair restorers or progressive dyes form that class of 
 preparations which, applied, will restore the original dark 
 shade to gray or faded hair. They are preferred to in- 
 stantaneous dyes by many on account of the fact that the 
 hair can be retouched or restored to its original dark color, 
 the change in shade being so gradual and extending over 
 such a period of time that the dyeing process does not 
 attract attention. In addition to the restoration of color, 
 the ideal preparation should free the scalp from dandruff 
 and prevent falling hair as well as promoting the growth 
 of new hair. After application the hair should be left free 
 from foreign matter yet soft and flexible, with a glossy 
 
Hair Dyes. 181 
 
 texture or sheen. Many hair restorers contain mineral 
 salts, some of which are said to entail harmful conse- 
 quences in some cases ; as a rule the use of vegetable prepa- 
 rations is harmless. The rapidity with which the color 
 of the hair is restored depends upon the nature of the 
 preparation used, the frequency of application, the texture 
 of the hair, the quantity of oil it contains, and the amount 
 of grayness present. 
 
 In the following list will be found prescriptions for 
 hair restorers embracing practically every progressive dye 
 that possesses merit. Many formulas contain the same 
 restorative agent, and differ only in the kind of perfume 
 used; so that an agreeable as well as an efficient product 
 may be selected. 
 
 Vegetable Hair Restorers. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 HAIR TONIC AND RESTORER. 
 
 The restorative action of this preparation is very mild. 
 It is also a most excellent hair tonic. 
 
 Bay Rum 5 ozs. 2 drams 
 
 Alcohol 2 ozs. 5 drams 
 
 Castor Oil ij drams 
 
 Ammonium Carbonate 40 grains 
 
 Tincture Cantharides 80 minims 
 
 Mix. Shake well and use daily. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 HAIR RESTORATIVE. 
 
 The restorative action of this prescription is similar 
 to No. 1. Perfumed with Rosemary water it will be found 
 very pleasing to use. 
 
182 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Glycerine of Borax 4 drams 
 
 Strong Solution Ammonia 3 drams 
 
 Spirits Camphor 1 dram 
 
 Compound Tinct. Cinchona 2 drams 
 
 Rosemary water, enough to make 6 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp daily. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 This preparation will be found to exert a gradual, 
 mild restorative action similar to that of prescriptions 
 Nos. 1 and 2. It will prove an excellent hair tonic with an 
 agreeable odor of Rosemary and Lavender. 
 
 Oil Rosemary 10 drops 
 
 Solution Ammonia 2 drams 
 
 Tincture Cantharides 4 drams 
 
 Lavender Water 2 drams 
 
 Distilled water, enough to make 6 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp daily. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 PERSIAN HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 This preparation will darken the color of the hair and 
 is absolutely harmless when applied. 
 
 Vinegar Cantharides 95 grains 
 
 Milk of Sulphur 45 grains 
 
 Glycerine 2 ounces 
 
 Oil Rose Geranium 2 drops 
 
 Distilled water, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Shake well and apply to scalp once daily. 
 
Hair Dyes. 183 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 This preparation is a harmless and slow acting color 
 restorer. It will be found an elegant and efficient pre- 
 scription. 
 
 Tincture Cantharides 2 drams 
 
 Tincture Galls 2 drams 
 
 Oil of Rose Geranium io drops 
 
 Carmine 6 grains 
 
 Rectified Spirit of Wine I ounce 
 
 Rose water 5 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply daily. 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 STIMULATING HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 This prescription will slightly darken the color of the 
 hair. It is harmless when applied and exerts a stimulating 
 effect upon the scalp. 
 
 Powdered Cantharides 45 grains 
 
 Oil of Almonds 6 drams 
 
 Oil of Rosemary 1 dram 
 
 Strong Solution of Ammonia 6 drams 
 
 Elder Flower Water 1 ounce 
 
 Rose water 1 ounce 
 
 Distilled water, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp at bed hour. 
 
184 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 The medicinal action of this preparation is similar to 
 that of No. 6. On account of the oils which it contains its 
 use is especially indicated when the scalp and hair is dry 
 and brittle. 
 
 Castor Oil i ounce 
 
 Olive Oil , i ounce 5 drams 
 
 Perfume, preferred odor, 40 minims 
 
 Spirit Rosemary 2 ounces 5 drams 
 
 Strong solution of Ammonia 5 drams 
 
 Tincture Cantharides 5 drams 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp daily. 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 This is a very fine preparation. It will slowly darken 
 the color of the hair. 
 
 Quinine Sulphate : 12 grains 
 
 Rose Water 5 ounces 
 
 Dilute Sulphuric Acid J 10 drops 
 
 Dissolve and add : 
 
 Tincture Jaborandi 4 drams 
 
 Eau de Cologne 1 ounce 
 
 Bay Rum 1 ounce 
 
 Mix and add to first mixture. Apply daily. 
 
 No. 9. 
 
 STIMULATING HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 This preparation exerts a slight coloring action on the 
 hair. It is also an active hair grower. 
 
Hair Dyes. 185 
 
 Pilocarpin Muriate 8 grains 
 
 Quinine Sulphate 8 grains 
 
 Glycerine 6 drams 
 
 Spirit of Nutmeg I ounce 
 
 Tincture Jaborandi i ounce 
 
 Vinegar Cantharides 2 ounces 
 
 Alcohol, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to scalp at bed hour. 
 
 No. 10. 
 
 FRENCH HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 This preparation is a most excellent one. It has more 
 of a darkening effect upon the hair than the preceding 
 preparations and its tonic effect is pronounced. 
 
 Quinine Hydrochlorate 20 grains 
 
 Alcohol 70% 8 ounces 
 
 Tannic Acid 40 grains 
 
 Tincture Cantharides 50 minims 
 
 Glycerine 2 drams 
 
 Cologne Water 3 drams 
 
 Pulverized Sandal Wood 20 grains 
 
 Extract of Vanilla \ dram 
 
 Mix and shake. Stand four hours and filter. 
 Sig. Rub into scalp daily. 
 
 No. 11. 
 
 QUININE HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 This quinine hair restorer has a marked restorative 
 action. It will not only darken the hair, but it possesses 
 all the virtues of a good hair tonic. 
 
 
186 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Tincture Cinchona i \ drams 
 
 Tincture Nut Galls 2 drams 
 
 Carmine 10 grains 
 
 Oil of Nutmeg 10 grains 
 
 Alcohol 6 drams 
 
 Rose Water 3 ounces 
 
 Orange Flower Water 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply daily. 
 
 No. 12. 
 
 HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 The use of this preparation will darken the color of 
 the hair; it is absolutely harmless and is a fine hair and 
 scalp tonic. 
 
 Tincture Cantharides 2 drams 
 
 Tincture Galls 2 drams 
 
 Oil Rose Geranium 20 drops 
 
 Carmine 7 grains 
 
 Alcohol 7 drams 
 
 Rose Water 5 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply daily. 
 
 No. 13. 
 
 HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 The use of tea has been advocated for many years as 
 a harmless preparation that will darken the color of the 
 hair. The writer recalls several instances of ladies past 
 the age of sixty-five years whose hair possessed a beauti- 
 ful gloss, with an entire absence of gray or white hair. 
 For this perfect preservation of color and texture, the use 
 of tea was given credit. 
 
Hair Dyes. 187 
 
 Black Tea 3 ounces 
 
 Boiling Water 8 ounces 
 
 Boil tea for thirty minutes, maintaining the 
 
 quantity of water; then cool, strain 
 
 through a thin cloth, and add 
 
 Bay Rum, imported 4 ounces 
 
 Glycerine i^ ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply to the hair and scalp daily. 
 
 This preparation is entirely harmless, and similar 
 preparations have been extensively used. It stains the 
 hair a dark color. A brown dye may be produced by 
 substituting three ounces of Extract of Log Wood for the 
 Tea. 
 
 No. 14. 
 
 HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 The action of this tea restorer is similar to that of 
 No. 13. In addition it contains Tincture of Cantharides, 
 which gives it a more pronounced tonic effect. 
 
 Black Tea 4 drams 
 
 Boiling water 8 ounces 
 
 Let simmer for thirty minutes, then strain, 
 cool, and add 
 
 Glycerine 3 drams 
 
 Bay Rum 6 ounces 
 
 Tincture Cantharides I dram 
 
 Let stand for two or three days and perfume to suit. 
 Apply daily. 
 
188 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Vegetable and Mineral Hair Restorers, 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 HARMLESS HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 This preparation will not stain the scalp; it will 
 slightly darken the color of the hair and will be found 
 efficient and harmless. 
 
 Tincture Acetate of Iron 4 drams 
 
 Sulphuret Potassium 2\ grains 
 
 Glycerine 2 drams 
 
 Oil of Rose Geranium 10 drops 
 
 Rain Water 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply daily. 
 
 Leave bottle uncorked until solution becomes odor- 
 less, then add the Oil of Rose Geranium. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 FLORAL HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 This preparation has a fine coloring effect, and will 
 be found most excellent when applied to a hot, itching, 
 burning scalp. We consider it one of the best mild veg- 
 etable and mineral hair restorers. It should be put up in 
 amber colored bottles and protected from the light. 
 
 French Rose Water 7J ounces 
 
 Triple Extract of Rose. . , 6 drams 
 
 Citrate of Bismuth 2 drams 
 
 Hyposulphite of Soda \ dram 
 
 Glycerine \ dram 
 
 Ammonia, quantity sufficient. 
 
 Apply to scalp at bed hour. 
 
Hair Dyes. 189 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 RESTORATIVE AND TONIC. 
 
 This preparation is a slow acting, progressive hair 
 dye and scalp tonic. 
 
 Hoffman's Balsamic Mixture ii ounces 
 
 Tincture Cantharides 2-§ drams 
 
 Glycerine I ounce 
 
 Rose Water 6J ounces 
 
 Carbonated Ammonia 2\ drams 
 
 Mix. Shake and filter. Apply daily. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 RESTORATIVE OINTMENT. 
 
 Hair restorers are for convenience of application usu- 
 ally prepared in the form of a liquid; for those who prefer 
 the use of an Ointment we submit the following which will 
 be found very efficient : 
 
 Vinegar Cantharides . 3 drams 
 
 Glycerine 1 dram 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Etheiopes Mineral 20 grains 
 
 Oil of Bergamot 20 drops 
 
 Olive Oil 4 drams 
 
 Lard 2 drams 
 
 Yellow Beeswax 2 drams 
 
 Make an ointment. 
 
 Sig. — Apply the ointment every night for a week; 
 then apply a small quantity of the ointment every third 
 
CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 LEAD AND SULPHUR HAIR RESTORERS 
 
 Preparations containing lead and sulphur comprise 
 by far the largest class of hair restorers advertised. They 
 are sold under the name of "hair promoters/' "hair vig- 
 ors," or "hair restorers." Their action is more rapid than 
 most purely vegetable products, and their effect is more 
 lasting as they do not decompose so readily under the influ- 
 ence of light and oxygen. When applied to the hair the 
 sulphur and lead combine upon exposure to the air to form 
 a black lead sulphide stain. These preparations should be 
 applied to the hair only, as otherwise the clothing and skin 
 may be stained. Solutions containing lead salt should be 
 applied with care as they are said to be injurious to some 
 scalps, especially if abrasions or diseases of the scalp are 
 present. Theoretically, these preparations are considered 
 as toxic in nature, yet in actual practice poisonous effects 
 from their use are practically unknown. 
 
 In almost all preparations where Sulphur is used an 
 insoluble precipitate forms in the bottom of the bottle; 
 therefore, unless directions are given to the contrary, the 
 preparation should be well shaken before applying to 
 the hair. 
 
 When using Sulphur hair restorers, wash the hair at 
 long intervals only. If the hair is very gray, the hair re- 
 storer may be applied two or three times daily for the first 
 week; then twice a day until the desired color is obtained; 
 then as needed. 
 
 (190) 
 
Lead and Sulphur Hair Restorers. 191 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 The dyeing properties of this preparation are due to 
 the presence of Lead alone, and it is one of the best of its 
 kind. 
 
 Sugar of Lead J dram 
 
 Glycerine 4 drams 
 
 Lavender Water I ounce 
 
 Distilled Water 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Moisten brush with solution and use night and 
 morning. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 ODORLESS SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 The addition of Sulphur to a hair restorer containing 
 Lead yields a more satisfactory product than a simple 
 Lead preparation. Lead and Sulphur combine to form a 
 dark Lead Oxide which increases the dyeing property, 
 and the sulphur is of benefit to the hair. The odor of the 
 Lead and Sulphur is objectionable to some. The following 
 preparation is practically odorless. 
 
 Sulphur 65 grains 
 
 Lead Acetate 95 grains 
 
 Glycerine i-J ounces 
 
 Water 5^ ounces 
 
 Dissolve Lead Acetate in water, then add Glycerine 
 and Sulphur. 
 
 Directions : Moisten brush with solution and apply 
 once or twice daily until the color is restored ; after which 
 an occasional application will prevent the hair from turn- 
 ing gray. 
 
192 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 tonic sulphur hair restorer. 
 
 The following preparation is not only a good hair 
 restorer, but its stimulating action on the scalp is in- 
 creased by the Cantharides which it contains. 
 
 $ 
 
 Sulphur Precipitate 2 drams 
 
 Lead Acetate 2 drams 
 
 Tincture Cantharides 1 dram 
 
 Glycerine 3 drams 
 
 Water 8 ounces 
 
 Dissolve Lead salt in water and add remaining in- 
 gredients. 
 
 Directions : Moisten brush with solution and apply 
 once or twice daily until the color is restored; after which 
 an occasional application will prevent the hair from turn- 
 ing gray. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 ROSE WATER - SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 The body of this preparation is composed of Rose 
 water; the odor will be found pleasing. 
 
 Sulphur Precipitate 2 drams 
 
 Lead Acetate 2 drams 
 
 Glycerine 10 drams 
 
 Rose Water, enough to make 6 ounces 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Moisten brush with solution and apply once or twice 
 daily until the color is restored ; then an occasional applica- 
 tion will prevent the hair from turning gray. 
 
Lead and Sulphur Hair Restorers. 193 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 LAVENDER - SULPHUR HAIR VIGOR. 
 
 The following preparation is an efficient hair re- 
 storer. It is scented with the Oil of Lavender, and will 
 be found agreeable to use. 
 
 Lead Acetate ij drams 
 
 Sulphur Precipitate 3 drams 
 
 Glycerine 6 drams 
 
 Oil of Lavender 15 drops 
 
 Rectified Spirits 2 drams 
 
 Water, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Dissolve Lead Acetate, Sulphur, and Oil of Lavender 
 in Rectified Spirits and Glycerine, and then add water 
 gradually. 
 
 Moisten brush with solution and apply once or twice 
 daily until the color is restored ; then an occasional applica- 
 tion will prevent the hair from turning gray. 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 MYRRH - SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 In the following preparation we have an excellent 
 hair restorer. In addition to the restorative agents, it 
 contains Jamaica Rum scented with Spirits of Myrrh, 
 making an elegant and pleasing preparation. 
 
 Lac Sulphur „ 15 grains 
 
 Lead Acetate 15 grains 
 
 Soda 30 grains 
 
 Glycerine 3 drams 
 
 Spirits of Myrrh 2 ounces 
 
 Jamaica Rum I ounce 
 
 Water 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. 
 13 
 
194 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Moisten brush with solution and apply once or twice 
 daily until the color is restored ; after which an occasional 
 application will prevent the hair from turning gray. 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 ROSEMARY SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 For those who prefer a Sulphur restorer perfumed 
 with the Spirit of Rosemary we submit the following 
 formula : 
 
 Sulphur Precipitate 75 grains 
 
 Lead Acetate 30 grains 
 
 Glycerine 5 drams 
 
 Spirit of Rosemary 4 drams 
 
 Distilled water, enough to make 6 ounces 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Moisten brush with the solution and apply once or 
 twice daily until the color is restored; then an occasional 
 application will prevent the hair from turning gray. 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 ORANGE FLOWER - SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 If preferred, Orange Flower water may be used as a 
 perfume, as in the following : 
 
 Sulphur Precipitate 130 grains 
 
 Lead Acetate . . 70 grains 
 
 Glycerine 2 drams 
 
 Orange Flower Water, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Moisten brush with the solution and apply once or 
 twice daily until the color is restored; then an occasional 
 application will prevent the hair from turning gray. 
 
Lead and Sulphur Hair Restorers. 195 
 
 No. 9. 
 
 ALMOND - SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 The restorative action of this preparation is similar 
 to the preceding ones. It is scented with the Oil of 
 Almonds which gives it a pleasant and lasting perfume. 
 
 Sulphur Precipitate 75 grains 
 
 Lead Acetate 60 grains 
 
 Alcohol 1 dram 
 
 Glycerine ij drams 
 
 Essential Oil of Almonds 30 drops 
 
 Distilled water, enough to make 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Moisten brush with solution and apply once or twice 
 daily until the color is restored ; after which an occasional 
 application will prevent the hair from turning gray. 
 
 No. 10. 
 
 SULPHUR AND LEAD HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 The following preparation is not only very efficient 
 as a hair restorer, but is scented with Rose Geranium, one 
 of the most popular and satisfactory perfumes for re- 
 storers of which we have knowledge : 
 
 Sulphur Precipitate 45 grains 
 
 Lead Acetate 60 grains 
 
 Tincture Cantharides i-J drams 
 
 Glycerine 3 drams 
 
 Oil of Rose Geranium 10 drops 
 
 Distilled water, enough to make 6 ounces 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Moisten the brush with solution and apply once or 
 twice daily until the color is restored; then an occasional 
 application will prevent the hair from turning gray. 
 
196 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 11. 
 
 SULPHUR AND LEAD HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 We consider the following preparation a very fine 
 hair restorer ; the color obtained by its use is more lasting 
 than that produced by many Sulphur hair restorers : 
 
 Lac Sulphur 55 grains 
 
 Lead Acetate 48 grains 
 
 Jamaica Rum 12 drams 
 
 Bay Rum 24 drams 
 
 Glycerine 1 dram 
 
 Salt 48 grains 
 
 Rose Water 3 ounces 2 drams 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Moisten brush with the solution and apply once or 
 twice daily until the color is restored; after which an 
 occasional application will prevent the hair from turning 
 gray. 
 
 No. 12. 
 
 HAIR STIMULANT RESTORER. 
 
 The restorative action of this preparation will be 
 found most excellent. It contains Acetic Acid, which, 
 more than any other preparation, is said to stimulate and 
 increase pigmentary deposit in the hair. Cantharides acts 
 as an excellent hair tonic and the perfume of Rose is 
 especially desirable. 
 
 Precipitated Sulphur 13 grains 
 
 Lead Acetate 3 grains 
 
 Acetic Acid .' 4 drams 
 
 Glycerine 4 drams 
 
 Tincture Cantharides 4 drams 
 
 Oil of Rose Geranium 5 drops 
 
 Distilled water, enough to make 6 ounces 
 
Lead and Sulphur Hair Restorers. 197 
 
 Moisten the brush and apply the solution once or 
 twice daily until the color is restored; then an occasional 
 application will prevent the hair from turning gray. 
 
 No. 13. 
 
 BERGAMOT HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 The proportion of Sulphur and Lead in this prepara- 
 tion is small ; hence the restoration of color is not so rapid 
 as that obtained by the use of some of the preparations 
 previously given. It also serves as a scalp tonic, and is 
 scented with the Oil of Bergamot, a perfume much in 
 demand. 
 
 Lac Sulphur i dram 
 
 Sugar of Lead i dram 
 
 Glycerine i-| drams 
 
 Tincture Cantharides I dram 
 
 Oil of Bergamot -J dram 
 
 Rain Water 8 ounces 
 
 Mix. Rub in well with the fingers once daily until 
 the desired shade is obtained — then as needed. 
 
 14. 
 
 SULPHUR SALICYLIC HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 We believe this to be one of the best Sulphur hair 
 restorers. It restores gray, faded hair to its original dark 
 color; the color is very lasting, and the preparation 
 cleanses and directly stimulates the scalp. 
 
198 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Sulphur washed I dram 
 
 Salicylic Acid I dram 
 
 Lead Acetate -J dram 
 
 Tincture Cantharides I dram 
 
 Glycerine i| drams 
 
 Bay Rum 4 drams 
 
 Salt 1 dram 
 
 Water, enough to make 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Directions for Use: Moisten the brush with the 
 solution and apply once or twice daily; then an occasional 
 application will prevent the hair from turning gray. 
 
 No. 15. 
 
 jockey club sulphur hair restorer. 
 
 We consider the following preparation very fine, con- 
 taining all the essentials necessary to create a satisfactory 
 hair restorer, scalp tonic, and a pleasing, agreeable 
 preparation : 
 
 Lac Sulphur i-J drams 
 
 Sugar of Lead 1 dram 
 
 Alcohol 4 drams 
 
 Jamaica Rum 1 ounce 
 
 Aqua Ammonia -J dram 
 
 Table Salt -J dram 
 
 Glycerine ij drams 
 
 Extract Jockey Club \ dram 
 
 Oil of Bergamot 2 drops 
 
 Rain Water 6 ounces 
 
 Mix the Lead, Sulphur, Alcohol and the Ammonia, 
 and let stand for 14 hours; then add remaining ingredients 
 to the water. Mix solution by shaking and let stand for 
 five days. 
 
Lead and Sulphur Hair Restorers. 199 
 
 Directions : Wet the hair thoroughly with the clear 
 liquid several times a week, taking care not to disturb 
 the sediment in the bottom of the bottle. After the first 
 week an occasional application will prevent the hair from 
 turning gray. 
 
 No. 16. 
 
 sulphur hair restorer and tonic. 
 
 This preparation has been widely used with satisfac- 
 tion. The change in color requires about two weeks to get 
 best results. 
 
 Precipitated Sulphur i dram 
 
 Acetate of Lead -J dram 
 
 Bay Rum I dram 
 
 Glycerine I dram 
 
 Aqua Ammonia \ dram 
 
 Common Salt \ dram 
 
 Rose Water 8 ounces 
 
 Rub up Sulphur with the Glycerine ; dissolve the Lead 
 in the Bay Rum ; and dissolve the salt with the Rose water. 
 Mix and add the Ammonia. Keep in a dark colored 
 bottle. 
 
 To Apply : Pour a little into the hand and rub into 
 the scalp three times daily for the first week; then twice 
 a day until the desired color is obtained ; then as needed. 
 
 No. 17. 
 
 AN ELEGANT SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER. 
 
 In this preparation there is no objectionable precipi- 
 tate. It is an elegant and very efficient product. 
 
200 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Hyposulphite of Soda 4 drams 
 
 Distilled Water 4 ounces 
 
 Dissolve. 
 
 Acetate of Lead 1 dram 
 
 Distilled Water 4 ounces 
 
 Dissolve. Mix with first solution, filter and add 
 
 Glycerine 4 drams 
 
 Apply daily to roots of hair with a brush or with the 
 ringers till the desired color is restored. Then as needed. 
 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 INSTANTANEOUS HAIR DYES. 
 
 Vegetable Hair Dyes. 
 
 Of the vegetable hair dyes, Henna, alone or in com- 
 bination, is the most widely known. Henna is a small 
 shrub which somewhat resembles our lilac, and is grown 
 principally in the hot countries of Asia. The flowers are 
 yellow in color and have a musk-like odor ; the fruit is the 
 size of a large pea. The leaves from which the dye is 
 made contain a pigment similar to the tannins, and are 
 collected during July, when they are dried and powdered. 
 
 Henna is usually applied in the form of a poultice 
 made from the powdered leaves, or rarely, as a brew, when 
 it is desired to impart an amber or reddish tint to the hair. 
 The henna powder or paste found on the market usually 
 consists of a combination of Henna with Copper, Pyro- 
 gallol and Carbon; the paste is made by the addition of 
 an oil to the powder. 
 
 The application of henna alone imparts a red tint to 
 the hair, but does not lighten the natural shade. Henna 
 should not be applied to hair that has been previously dyed 
 with metallic dye without first removing all traces of the 
 dyeing agent previously used; nor to faded, gray, or dis- 
 colored hair without first obtaining a uniform shade by 
 bleaching. 
 
 To obtain a shade other than that which the use of 
 Henna alone would give, it is combined with Reng. A 
 powder prepared in a manner similar to that of Henna is 
 made from the leaves of the Indigofera Argentea or In- 
 
 (201) 
 
202 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 digo plant, and combined with the powdered leaves of the 
 Henna. The application of Reng alone will give a bluish 
 black color, but by combining the two in varying propor- 
 tions, and by regulating the length of time of application, 
 various shades of color ranging from blonde to black may 
 be produced. 
 
 Henna and Reng 
 
 The Oriental method of applying the Henna and Reng 
 is as follows: 
 
 The henna and reng must be of good quality; the 
 reng should be powdered fine, without lumps, and should 
 have the color of fresh green peas ; the temperature of the 
 room should be 75° Fahrenheit ; a pair of gloves as a pro- 
 tection for the hands may be worn. For rinsing out the 
 powder a small tub filled with warm soft water should be 
 provided. The hair and scalp must be entirely freed from 
 oil or other foreign substances by means of the shampoo, 
 after which the hair should be dried thoroughly, parted 
 along the crown of the head into two equal halves, and 
 arranged in four or five loose braids. 
 
 To color a thick growth of hair, from ninety to one 
 hundred and twenty grams of the powder is required. 
 For black or dark colored hair the mixture should consist 
 of three parts of reng with one of henna; for blonde or 
 light hair, two parts of reng with one of henna. The 
 henna and reng should be reduced to a smooth powder and 
 enough water added, with constant stirring or shaking to 
 and fro until a thin liquid results. The mixture should 
 have the color and smell of spinach and should be so thin 
 that it will readily flow out of a too full ladle. 
 
 Thoroughly moisten the crown of the head with the 
 mixture, at the same time massaging it with the hand so 
 that the solution is thoroughly rubbed in; then apply to 
 the hanging braids by drawing them repeatedly one after 
 
Instantaneous Hair Dyes. 203 
 
 the other through the hands rilled with the dye until they 
 are completely saturated. If one prefers a black color the 
 braids may be coiled tightly and pinned about the head on 
 the already treated hair; if brown or still lighter color is 
 desired the braids should not be laid on the head, but 
 loosely fastened together with pins on the back of the 
 head. After the braids have been packed carefully to- 
 gether the whole should be smoothed over with the stain, 
 care being taken that every hair on the head is well moist- 
 ened with the preparation. A thick linen cloth should be 
 fastened about the neck as a protection against any trick- 
 ling drops, and one should remain in a warm room the 
 time necessary to produce the required color. The longer 
 the stain lies on the hair the darker the color becomes. To 
 obtain a beautiful gleaming black shade from three to four 
 hours is required; for a brown color under the above con- 
 ditions from two to two and one-half hours is needed. 
 When the staining action is completed, pour at once on the 
 head enough water to thoroughly wash out the paste, at 
 the same time assisting the cleansing action of the water 
 by the constant use of a wide comb. The rinsing process 
 should be continued until the water flows clear from the 
 hair, which will require at least a half hour's time and the 
 use of much water. The color really obtained is best esti- 
 mated after the lapse of five or six hours, or on the follow- 
 ing morning. If the hair has been well cleansed and the 
 color skillfully applied, a wonderfully beautiful lustre is 
 obtained. If the hair does not show this lustre after dry- 
 ing, but appears dull and lifeless, the coloring is a failure, 
 and the hair should be recolored, following the method 
 described with the exception of the shampoo. This may 
 be omitted unless some grease has been introduced which 
 would make a recleansing necessary. Subsequent applica- 
 tions of henna and reng give much better effects than the 
 
204 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 first application. If the hair color is pure throughout, one 
 should use in the next treatment a weaker coloring mix- 
 ture, with a somewhat less proportion of reng. After the 
 application of henna and reng one should not use a greasy 
 brush or comb until the color is satisfactory, or the powder 
 is all out of the hair. Henna and reng are said to be en- 
 tirely harmless and can be taken into the eyes or mouth 
 without danger. It should be carefully noted that reng 
 spoils easily when exposed to moisture, so it is best kept in 
 well corked, paper wrapped flasks. 
 
 Walnut Extract. 
 
 Walnut extract obtained from the green nuts of the 
 walnut tree has long been a favorite substance for making 
 hair dyes. The walnut juice may be obtained from the 
 nuts in several ways. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 The supply of fresh green walnut shells should be 
 thoroughly mashed and the resulting mass covered with 
 distilled water to which one per cent of salt has been 
 added. Stir occasionally for three days. Again cover the 
 resulting mass with water, and heat almost to the boiling 
 point for six hours, keeping up the supply of water which 
 is lost by evaporation; then cool and strain through a 
 cloth by twisting or pressure. Return the liquid thus 
 obtained to the kettle and apply heat until three quarters 
 are lost by evaporation; cool and add one-sixth by weight 
 of Alcohol. Mix well and bottle. 
 
 Apply with brush and comb once weekly or as needed. 
 
Instantaneous Hair Dyes. 205 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 BROWN WALNUT HAIR STAIN. 
 
 Crush green walnuts and express the juice. For each ounce of 
 juice add 
 
 Boric Acid 5 grains 
 
 Alcohol i dram 
 
 Cool, filter off and bottle for future use. 
 
 This preparation requires two or three days to "become fast." 
 
 Apply with a comb and tooth brush once weekly, or 
 as required. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 BROWN WALNUT HAIR OIL DYE. 
 
 Green Walnut Hulls i J ounces 
 
 Alum 3 drams 
 
 Olive Oil 5 ounces 
 
 Heat in water bath until water has been entirely 
 expelled, then express, filter and perfume to suit. 
 Apply every two or three days, or as needed. 
 
 No. 4. 
 Brown Walnut Hair Dye. 
 
 Fresh Green Walnut Shells i ounce 
 
 Powdered Alum i dram 
 
 Benzoated Oil 5 ounces 
 
 Oil of Rose Geranium 6 drops 
 
 Reduce the walnut shells and alum to a smooth paste, 
 digest with Benzoated oil in a water bath until all the 
 vapor has been driven off; then add the Oil of Rose Ger- 
 anium. This will produce a brown shade. It should be 
 used daily. 
 
206 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 5. 
 Brown Walnut Hair Dye. 
 
 Green Walnut Shells 2 ounces 
 
 Alum 2 drams 
 
 Bruise together in a mortar and allow 
 
 to stand for two days; then 
 
 transfer to an evaporating dish 
 
 and add 
 
 Olive Oil 3 ounces 6 drams 
 
 Stir constantly until the moisture is 
 
 evaporated and the shells are dry. 
 
 Cool, strain, press and add 
 
 Oil of Bergamot 4 drops 
 
 Oil of Verbena 1 drop 
 
 Mix. Apply as needed. 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 walnut hair oil and dye. 
 
 Oils impregnated with the coloring principles of wal- 
 nut shells have been recommended for dyeing the hair, 
 thus serving as a combined oil and dye. The oil is to be 
 applied daily, until the hair acquires a dark brown tint, 
 then as needed. 
 
 DARK BROWN WALNUT OIL DYE. 
 
 Paraffin Oil 4 ounces 
 
 Alum Powder 1 dram 
 
 Walnut Shells, dried 1 ounce 
 
 Alcohol sufficient 
 
 Perfume to suit 
 
 Moisten the shells with alcohol, add the alum and 
 paraffin oil, heat on a sand bath for an hour; then filter, 
 and finally add any essential oils or synthetic perfumes. 
 
 Apply daily. 
 
Instantaneous Hair Dyes. 207 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 BROWN WALNUT OIL DYE. 
 
 Walnut Shells, green I ounce 
 
 Alum Powder I dram 
 
 Olive Oil 5 ounces 
 
 Oil of Bergamot 9 drops 
 
 Beat the walnut shells in a mortar with the alum ; then 
 heat with the olive oil until all moisture has dissipated, 
 filter, allow to cool, and add the aromatic oil. 
 
 Apply daily. 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 BROWN VEGETABLE DYE. 
 
 Dried Walnut Leaves I ounce 
 
 Dried Rosemary Leaves I ounce 
 
 Dried Bay Laurel Leaves 4 drams 
 
 Dried Lavender Flowers 4 drams 
 
 Oil of Rosemary \ dram 
 
 Mix and put up in one ounce packets, wrapped in 
 waxed paper. 
 
 Sig: Pour one pint of boiling water on each ounce 
 package, cool and strain through muslin and add two 
 ounces of alcohol or bay rum, and glycerine one ounce. 
 If hair is oily omit glycerine. 
 
 Shake bottle before using, and apply with sponge to 
 roots of hair every other day. 
 
 No. 9. 
 
 Many of the so-called "walnut dyes" are not made 
 from walnut shells at all, but are of chemical origin. As 
 an example we submit 
 
208 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails, 
 
 Silver Nitrate i dram 
 
 Pyrogallol 4 drams 
 
 Distilled water 3 ounces 
 
 Glycerine 5 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply as directed for Silver Nitrate dyes. 
 
 Pyrogallol. 
 These Pyrogallol hair dyes are harmless and efficient. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 £ PYROGALLOL CHESTNUT HAIR DYE. 
 
 Pyrogallol 1 dram 
 
 Nitric Acid 10 drops 
 
 Water, enough to make 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply as needed with a small stiff brush and comb. 
 
 Thoroughly wash and rinse the hair, and when dry 
 apply the dye daily with a sponge or soft cloth. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 £ PYROGALLOL BROWN HAIR DYE. 
 
 Pyrogallol 4 drams 
 
 Sodium Sulphite 32 grains 
 
 Alcohol 1 ounce 
 
 Water 3 ounces 
 
 Dissolve the Sodium Sulphite in the water and the 
 Pyrogallol in the Alcohol. Mix and apply with a small 
 brush and comb. 
 
Instantaneous Hair Dyes. 209 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 ^ PYROGALLOL — BROWN DYE. 
 
 Pyrogallol -J ounce 
 
 Sodium Sulphite i^ drams 
 
 Alcohol 90% -J ounce 
 
 Water 3 ounces 
 
 Mix and apply as needed. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 £ DARK BROWN NON-METALLIC. 
 
 Pyrogallol 8 grains 
 
 Citric Acid 1 dram 
 
 Distilled water 4 ounces 
 
 Mix and apply. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 £ NON-METALLIC BLACK DYE. 
 
 Pyrogallol 1 dram 
 
 Citric Acid 5 grains 
 
 Boro-glycerine 3 drams 
 
 Water 3^ ounces 
 
 Mix and dissolve, then apply. 
 
 The hair should be washed in Soda and soft water 
 solution in the morning before applying these dyes. 
 
 The color may be darkened or lightened by adding 
 more or less of the Pyrogallol. 
 
 The following preparations are suitable for coloring 
 the hair for a limited time, and are preferred by those 
 who wish to apply them every few days. They are harm- 
 less in nature and quick in action; but they do not resist 
 the action of soap and water. 
 
 14 
 
210 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 BLACK OIL HAIR AND EYEBROW DYE. 
 
 Olive Oil 4 ounces 
 
 White Wax 2 ounces 
 
 Powdered Burnt Cork i ounce 
 
 Apply with suitable brush and comb as needed. 
 
 Heat the oil and wax together over a water bath; 
 when melted add the cork. This dye gives a lustrous 
 color to the hair and is absolutely harmless. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 HARMLESS BLACK DYE FOR EYEBROWS AND HAIR. 
 
 Gum Arabic i dram 
 
 India Ink i£ drams 
 
 Rose Water 4 ounces 
 
 Reduce the gum and ink to fine powder and add 
 sufficient Rose water to dissolve all the granules. Then 
 add sufficient rose water to make a four ounce solution. 
 
 This preparation gives a black color and is absolutely 
 harmless. It should be applied as needed with a small 
 stiff brush and comb. 
 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 INSTANTANEOUS MINERAL HAIR DYES. 
 
 Manganese. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 LIGHT BROWN HAIR DYE. 
 
 Potassium Permanganate 3 ounces 
 
 Distilled water 1 quart 
 
 Free the hair from fat or oil in the manner previously 
 described, and apply the dye with a small brush. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 MANGANESE HAIR DYE. BLONDE. 2 BOTTLE. 
 
 Solution A. 
 
 Potassium Permanganate 80 grains 
 
 Distilled water 4 ounces 
 
 Solution B. 
 
 Sodium Hyposulphite 80 grains 
 
 Distilled water 4 ounces 
 
 Free the hair from grease by washing with a weak 
 soda solution ; then rinse thoroughly with warm water and 
 dry with a soft towel. Apply Solution A with a soft, 
 clean tooth brush, afterwards combing with a clean comb 
 to evenly distribute the solution. After a short time 
 sponge the hair with clean water, then brush with Solu- 
 tion B until the Manganese color is discharged. 
 
 Solution A is also used alone, the depth of color 
 obtained varying with the frequency of application. 
 
 (211) 
 
212 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Iron. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 IRON HAIR DYE. 
 
 Iron being entirely free from poisonous properties, 
 has been used to some extent as a base for hair dyes in 
 preference to some of the other metallic salts. We do not 
 believe the color obtained is as lasting or satisfactory as 
 that produced by Bismuth or Silver; but we submit the 
 following formulas for the use of those who might prefer 
 them. 
 
 Solution A. BLACK -2 BOTTLE. 
 
 Iron Sulphate 2\ grains 
 
 Glycerine i-| drams 
 
 Distilled water 4 ounces 
 
 Solution B. 
 
 Tannic Acid io grains 
 
 Gallic Acid io grains 
 
 Distilled water 4 ounces 
 
 Wash hair thoroughly, and brush on three consecu- 
 tive days with Solution A; then apply Solution B with a 
 fine tooth comb. Subsequently apply both liquids daily 
 with an hour interval between the application of Solution 
 A and Solution B, until the desired black color is pro- 
 duced. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 £ BLACK 1 BOTTLE. 
 
 Solution of Iron Acetate 15 minims 
 
 Pyrogallol 40 grains 
 
 Glycerine 2 drams 
 
 Alcohol 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Apply once or twice daily to gradually darken the 
 hair. 
 
Instantaneous Mineral Hair Dyes. 213 
 
 Bismuth. 
 
 Bismuth hair dyes are preferred by many as they are 
 entirely non-poisonous and may be used freely. The 
 objection to them is that they do not operate so quickly, 
 and they rapidly decompose on exposure to light and air. 
 They should always be kept in dark, well-stoppered bottles. 
 They are also quite expensive. They are especially use- 
 ful in producing a light brown or chestnut shade of hair. 
 
 No. 1. 
 ^ blonde or brown dye. 
 
 Bismuth Subnitrate 63 grains 
 
 Solution of Potassa 10% 
 
 Citric Acid, each sufficient 
 
 Glycerine ij ounces 
 
 Distilled or Orange Flower Water, enough 
 
 to make 4 ounces 
 
 Mix the bismuth salt and glycerine intimately by 
 trituration; then heat on a water bath and gradually add 
 to it Solution of Potassa under constant stirring, until the 
 Bismuth salt is dissolved. Then add concentrated solution 
 of Citric Acid until only a slight alkalinity remains, and 
 add water to make up the four fluid ounces. 
 
 This is to be applied by means of a new tooth brush 
 and comb. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 £ BISMUTH DYE — BROWN. 
 
 Bismuth Citrate 1 ounce 
 
 Distilled water 4 ounces 
 
 Alcohol 6 drams 
 
 Ammonia water, enough to dissolve the residue. 
 Mix and apply by means of a small brush and comb. 
 
214 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 DARK BROWN BISMUTH DYE. 
 
 Two Bottle. 
 Solution A. 
 
 Bismuth Citrate 3 drams 
 
 Alcohol 2 drams 
 
 Rose Water i£ ounces 
 
 Distilled water 2 ounces 
 
 Add the bismuth to the alcohol, rose water and dis- 
 tilled water, after which sufficient water of ammonia to 
 dissolve the residue should be added. 
 
 Solution B. 
 
 Sodium Hyposulphite 1 J ounces 
 
 Distilled water 5 ounces 
 
 At night free the hair and scalp from oil by washing, 
 and in the morning apply solution A and let it dry. That 
 night apply solution B. Repeat the operation if a deeper 
 tint is desired. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 BISMUTH HAIR DYE BLACK. 
 
 Bismuth Citrate 1 ounce 
 
 Rose water 2 ounces 
 
 Distilled water 2 ounces 
 
 Alcohol \ ounce 
 
 Ammonia water, enough to make a clear solution. 
 
 Apply with a small brush once daily, till the desired 
 shade is obtained. Repeat as needed. 
 
Instantaneous Mineral Hair Dyes. 215 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 BISMUTH HAIR DYE BLACK. 
 
 Two Bottle. 
 
 Solution A. 
 
 Bismuth Citrate I ounce 
 
 Alcohol 5 drams 
 
 Rose Water 2 ounces 
 
 Distilled water 2 ounces 
 
 Ammonia Water, to dissolve the precipitate. 
 
 Apply in the morning. 
 
 Solution B. 
 
 Sodium Hyposulphite 12 drams 
 
 Distilled water 4 ounces 
 
 Apply thoroughly in the evening. 
 Use a small stiff brush and repeat the operation until 
 the desired shade is obtained ; then as needed. 
 
 Quicksilver Dyes. 
 
 Dyes containing Mercury are so poisonous that they 
 should not be used on the living hair. They are sometimes 
 used in coloring false hair ; but even in this field they have 
 objectionable features and offer no special advantage over 
 other, and less harmful dyes. 
 
 Silver Nitrate used either alone or in combina- 
 tion, has a wider range of usefulness than any other dye. 
 Colors ranging in shade from flaxen to raven's wing 
 black may be obtained. The Dye is easily prepared and 
 previous experience with it is not so necessary to obtain 
 satisfactory results as in the case of many other dyes. 
 
216 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Stains of the skin which may result during its appli- 
 cation can be removed before the dye is "set" by the use 
 of a little oil or cold cream; or if the dye has set, lemon 
 juice and pumice stone will cleanse the skin. 
 
 Much has been written concerning the harmful 
 effects of Nitrate of Silver when applied to the hair and 
 scalp; yet when we consider the extent to which Silver 
 Nitrate is used, not only upon the mucous membranes of 
 the body, but also when instilled directly into the eye itself, 
 harm resulting from its use upon the scalp has been very 
 much exaggerated. To our personal knowledge many 
 thousand prescriptions for Silver dyes have been made 
 and applied without one harmful consequence resulting. 
 As a matter of fact, Silver dyes are but very slightly ab- 
 sorbed by the skin, and may be regarded as not harmful 
 when applied to a healthy scalp if a standard preparation 
 is used, and reasonable precautions are taken in* applying 
 them. 
 
 The dye may be applied by the use of a small, clean 
 tooth brush or nail brush and a clean rubber comb, in the 
 following manner : Part the hair evenly in the center and 
 lifting a small strand of hair from the scalp with a comb, 
 apply the dye sparingly, beginning at the roots and work- 
 ing toward the ends of the hair. 
 
 Exposure to bright light will hasten the setting of 
 the dye. Sulphuret of Potash — from twenty grains to two 
 drams to the ounce of distilled water — will set it in- 
 stantly ; or washing the hair on the following day in pure, 
 warm soft water, to which a little salt has been added will 
 serve the same purpose. 
 
 All oil and fat should be removed from the hair be- 
 fore the application, and the excess dye afterwards, by 
 washing in the manner already described. 
 
Instantaneous Mineral Hair Dyes. 217 
 
 No. 1. 
 silver hair dye FLAXEN. 
 
 Two Bottle. 
 Solution A. 
 
 Nitrate of Silver 160 grains 
 
 Subnitrate of Bismuth 320 grains 
 
 Acetate of Iron 160 grains 
 
 Distilled Water 3 ounces 3 drams 
 
 Solution B. 
 
 Sulphite of Potassium 3 ounces 
 
 Distilled Water 3 ounces 
 
 Mix the acetate of iron with the water, then add the 
 silver and bismuth. Apply solution B to the hair. In two 
 hours apply lightly solution A. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 BLONDE HAIR DYE. 
 
 Two Bottle. 
 Solution A. 
 
 Silver Nitrate i\ drams 
 
 Bismuth Subnitrate 3 drams 
 
 Water 2 ounces 
 
 Solution B. 
 
 Potassium di-Sulphide 1 ounce 
 
 Water 1 ounce 
 
 Remove all oil from the hair as previously directed, 
 dry, and apply Solution B. Dry, and in two hours apply 
 Solution A. 
 
218 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 3. 
 blonde hair dye. 
 
 One Bottle. 
 
 Silver Nitrate 20 grains 
 
 Copper Sulphate 30 grains 
 
 Citric Acid 40 grains 
 
 Ammonia Water enough 
 
 Distilled Water 4 ounces 
 
 Dissolve the silver nitrate, copper sulphate and citric 
 acid in distilled water; then carefully add the ammonia 
 water until the precipitate which has formed has been 
 dissolved. 
 
 Apply as directed. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 CHESTNUT HAIR DYE. 
 
 One Bottle. 
 
 Crystals Silver Nitrate 3J drams 
 
 Nitrate of Copper 20 grains 
 
 Distilled Water 3I ounces 
 
 Ammonia Water sufficient 
 
 Dissolve the nitrate of silver and the nitrate of copper 
 in distilled water, and add cautiously the water of 
 ammonia until the precipitate is dissolved. This prepara- 
 tion will dye the hair black. Various shades from black to 
 light brown may be secured by diluting the solution. 
 
 Apply as directed. 
 
Instantaneous Mineral Hair Dyes. 219 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 SILVER DYE DARK BROWN. 
 
 One Bottle. 
 
 Silver Nitrate Crystals 2 drams 
 
 Gum Arabic 2 drams 
 
 Distilled Water 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply as directed. 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 In preparing silver dyes an excess of Ammonia 
 should be avoided as this tends to produce a brownish dye. 
 
 BROWN OR BLACK. 
 
 Two Bottle. 
 Solution A. 
 
 Silver Nitrate 4 drams 
 
 Ammonia Water sufficient 
 
 Distilled Water, to make 4 ounces 
 
 Dissolve the Silver Nitrate in a portion of water; 
 gradually add the Ammonia water, stirring constantly 
 until the brown turbidity produced has vanished and the 
 liquid appears colorless. 
 
 Solution B. 
 
 Pyrogallol I dram 
 
 Alcohol 4 drams 
 
 Distilled Water, to make 4 ounces 
 
 Mix and dissolve. 
 
 Apply the Pyrogallol Solution to the hair with a tooth 
 brush, taking care not to wet the scalp. When partially 
 dry apply the silver solution in the same manner, using 
 another brush. 
 
220 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 7. 
 BROWN or black. 
 
 Two Bottle. 
 Solution A. 
 
 Silver Nitrate 4 drams 
 
 Copper Nitrate • • • • 2 4 grains 
 
 Ammonia Water sufficient 
 
 Distilled Water 4 ounces 
 
 Dissolve the two salts in the water, add ammonia 
 water to redissolve the precipitate first formed. 
 
 Solution B. 
 
 Pyrogallol 2 drams 
 
 Acetic Acid 6 drams 
 
 Alcohol 4^ ounces 
 
 Apply the Pyrogallol Solution to the hair with a tooth 
 brush, taking care not to wet the scalp. When partially 
 dry apply the silver solution in the same manner using 
 another brush. 
 
 This makes a black dye. For a brown dye decrease 
 the amount of Pyrogallol ; as little as one-half grain to the 
 fluid dram is sometimes used. Sometimes the Acetic Acid 
 is omitted, and in most of the commercial hair dyes diluted 
 alcohol is used as a solvent of the acid. Copper Sulphate 
 might possibly be substituted for the nitrate. The use of 
 copper salt is to avoid the dull reddish tint imparted to 
 the hair by the use of silver nitrate alone. 
 
Instantaneous Mineral Hair Dyes. 221 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 BROWN OR BLACK. 
 
 3 A Good One Bottle Dye. 
 
 Silver Nitrate Crystals 75 grains 
 
 Stronger water of Ammonia, enough to dis- 
 solve the precipitate formed, and add 
 
 Orange Flower Water -J ounce 
 
 Glycerine 1^ drams 
 
 Distilled water, enough to make 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Cleanse the hair, dry and apply night and morning 
 till the proper color is obtained; then as needed. 
 
 Diluted with rain water this preparation will produce 
 a brown stain. 
 
 No. 9. 
 
 BROWN OR BLACK SILVER DYE. 
 
 One Bottle. 
 
 Wash the hair with soap and water, and after drying 
 apply from the roots to the ends of the hair with a soft 
 tooth brush a 2% solution of Pyrogallol in distilled water, 
 then dry the hair and apply : 
 
 Silver Nitrate 18 grains 
 
 Distilled water 3 ounces 
 
 Water of Ammonia, enough to make a clear solution. 
 
 This must be applied every three or four weeks. 
 
222 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 10. 
 
 BLACK SILVER DYE. 
 
 Solution A. Two Bottle - 
 
 Silver Nitrate 160 grains 
 
 Ammonia Water 6 drams 
 
 Sodium Carbonate i dram 
 
 Water 2 ounces 6 drams 
 
 Solution B. 
 
 Pyrogallol 40 grains 
 
 Water 3 ounces 
 
 Alcohol 1 ounce 
 
 Dissolve the silver nitrate in the water, and add care- 
 fully the ammonia water until the precipitate formed is 
 dissolved; then add enough water to make twelve ounces 
 and allow to stand for a few days. 
 
 To Apply : After the oil has been removed from the 
 hair or whiskers by the method described, apply solution 
 B and permit to dry. Apply solution A, dry the hair 
 thoroughly, and wash with a good soap and soft water to 
 remove the superfluous dye, after which the hair should 
 be again dried. 
 
 No. 11. 
 
 BROWN OR BLACK SILVER DYE. 
 
 ^ One Bottle. 
 
 Nitrate of Silver 2 drams 
 
 Nitrate of Copper 82 grains 
 
 Distilled water 3^ ounces 
 
 Dissolve and add Water of Ammonia, enough to dis- 
 solve the precipitate formed. 
 
 Apply as directed. This solution will produce a very 
 black color. A lighter shade may be produced by diluting 
 the solution. 
 
Instantaneous Mineral Hair Dyes. 223 
 
 No. 12. 
 
 SILVER NITRATE OINTMENT DYE. 
 
 Silver Nitrate 38 grains 
 
 Oil of Rose Geranium 8 drops 
 
 Vaseline 4 ounces 
 
 Mix. Apply as needed. 
 
 This should be applied every two or three weeks. 
 
 Synthetic Hair Dyes. 
 
 As a rule most of the synthetic hair dyes irritate the 
 skin and produce eczema or other skin inflammations. 
 They are used extensively for dyeing furs and false hair. 
 They possess the advantage of resisting the effects of 
 light and water. One of the chemicals most widely known 
 is Paraphenylenediamine. According to a German patent 
 the entire formula is as follows: 
 
 Solution A. 
 
 Paraphenylenediamine 2 parts 
 
 Caustic Soda 14 parts 
 
 Water 1000 parts 
 
 Solution B. 
 
 Hydrogen Dioxide 3 parts 
 
 Water 100 parts 
 
 Another preparation widely extolled is known as 
 Aureol, also a German preparation. This preparation is 
 composed of : 
 
 Metol 10 parts 
 
 Amidophenol Hydrochloride 3 parts 
 
 Monarnidophenylamine 6 parts 
 
 Sodium Sulphite 5 parts 
 
 Dilute alcohol, to make 1000 parts 
 
 Dissolve the sulphite in the alcohol and all the other ingredients. 
 
224 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 In using this dye the hair should first be washed with 
 a soda solution or soap, rinsed thoroughly with clear 
 water, and allowed to dry partially ; then with a fine tooth 
 comb apply this liquid previously mixed with an equal pro- 
 portion of hydrogen peroxide. In the course of two or 
 three hours the hair will assume a dark brown color which 
 can be increased to black by repeated applications of the 
 dye. 
 
CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 SCIENTIFIC APPLICATION OF HAIR DYE. 
 
 The application of a dye is comparatively easy if the 
 proper method is understood. It may be applied to one's 
 own hair with the aid of mirrors properly arranged, 
 although in most cases somewhat better results may be 
 secured if the application is made by an assistant. The 
 room chosen should be well lighted, and the neck and 
 shoulders protected by a cloth. 
 
 Separate the hair into four equal sections by partings 
 from center of forehead to nape of neck and from ear to 
 ear. Pour a small quantity of the dye into a saucer and 
 apply to the front hair first, as the hair in front is more 
 difficult to color. 
 
 Divide into half inch sections, and with the aid of a 
 hard rubber comb and a small stiff brush, apply the dye to 
 the roots only, or to the entire hair shaft, as the case may 
 require. The hair strands should be held in such a man- 
 ner that the dye will flow toward the scalp, as otherwise 
 the hair points may be dyed a deeper color than the hair 
 near the head. Some operators prefer to brush the dye 
 into the hair by movements directed toward the scalp, 
 while others brush toward the point. Constant combing 
 during the application is of great assistance in obtaining 
 an even distribution of the dye. Upon completion of the 
 dyeing process, the hair should be dried and retouched if 
 necessary, after which it should again be dried and 
 washed. 
 
 15 (225) 
 
226 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Suggestions. 
 
 Spare no pains in the preparation of the hair before 
 the dye is applied. Remove all oil or foreign matter by a 
 shampoo, to which one per cent of Soda — one teaspoon- 
 f ul to a pint on an average — may be added. Fine hair or 
 dry hair requires less soda in the shampoo than coarse or 
 greasy hair. 
 
 Wash out all traces of the shampoo with tepid water, 
 and to the final rinse water it is sometimes of advantage to 
 add Acetic acid — two teaspoonfuls to a quart. Four 
 tablespoonfuls of vinegar to a quart of water may be used 
 if the Acetic acid is not available. If the water used in 
 the shampoo contains even a trace of lime, the latter may 
 be deposited on the hair shaft and prevent the proper 
 absorption of the dye. After the dyeing process has been 
 completed the final shampoo should be given to remove 
 any excess of dye in order that the scalp may be cleansed, 
 and proper gloss restored to the hair. 
 
 Hair can contain only one substance at a time; oil, 
 moisture, or coloring matter; therefore, if the hair takes 
 the coloring matter properly these elements should be 
 removed. 
 
 We can only dye that part of the hair which is outside 
 of the scalp, and as the rate of hair growth is three-eighths 
 to three-quarters of an inch a month, this new growth 
 must from time to time be tinted the same color as the rest 
 of the hair. 
 
 The theory of hair dyeing is based upon the assump- 
 tion that a true' dye not only colors the outside of the hair 
 shaft, but penetrates it through and through ; and in those 
 rare instances when it is desired to obtain a lighter shade 
 than the color of the hair to be dyed, the darker color must 
 first be removed, else the color of the dye will be modified 
 
Scientific Application of Hair Dye. 227 
 
 by the natural darker coloring matter which the hair 
 possesses. 
 
 Should it be desired to obtain by the employment of a 
 dye a lighter shade than the original color of the hair, or 
 if much gray hair is present, the hair may be bleached with 
 peroxide, and a light color applied to the gray hair; if it 
 is found difficult to make the gray hair take the lighter 
 color, it may be colored to match the original darker shade, 
 after which all of the hair may be decolorized until the 
 shade required is obtained. This method is usually the 
 most satisfactory. 
 
 If several shades of hair are present, the safe plan is 
 to take a small amount of hair of each shade, apply the 
 dye, and when good results are obtained proceed with the 
 dyeing process; or it may be advisable to secure the serv- 
 ices of a competent operator for the first application, after 
 which the subsequent retouching necessary to maintain 
 the proper shade is much more easily performed. 
 
 When desired to apply a dye to the hair roots alone, 
 or to a small amount of gray hair found on the temples, 
 the oil may be removed by a thorough cleansing with pure 
 Spirits of Wine. A little oil applied to the surrounding 
 hair will prevent the dye from spreading. 
 
 To change the shade of hair which has been pre- 
 viously dyed, all traces of former coloring agents, espe- 
 cially those of Silver or Lead, should first be removed by 
 decolorizing with caution. 
 
 Persons whose scalp is unhealthy from any cause, or 
 who have a predisposition to eczema or skin disease should 
 exercise caution in using a hair bleach or dye. To deter- 
 mine whether or not the dye to be used will cause scalp 
 irritation, a small quantity may be applied, to the skin and 
 left over night; if no bad effects result it is said the dye 
 may be used with safety. 
 
228 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Practically all hair dyes should be sparingly applied, 
 and any resulting scalp stain removed by the use of a 
 shampoo, by the application of oil, or lemon juice and 
 pumice stone. 
 
 Hair should not be curled or waved the same day a 
 dye has been applied. 
 
 The great majority of manufactured hair dyes con- 
 sist of mineral compounds rather than vegetable products, 
 notwithstanding the claims of the manufacturers to the 
 contrary; since practically all vegetable pigments fade 
 under the influence of light and oxygen. 
 
CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 THE FINGER AND TOE NAILS. 
 
 The Finger Nails. 
 
 The hand may be ever so well formed and ever so well 
 kept, yet without carefully tended nails will present an 
 unsightly appearance. The possession of beautiful nails 
 demands thought and care not only in all details which are 
 necessary to secure absolute cleanliness, but also in se- 
 curing that harmony of shape and color which is the 
 indication of refinement and culture. Soiled, neglected 
 nails are always in evidence, and create a most unfavor- 
 able impression in the realms of society or the domain of 
 business. It matters not whether the nails are short, 
 soiled, or chewed off, with broadened ugly finger ends, 
 indicating a total lack of care as well as bespeaking sloth- 
 fulness and careless personal habits, or whether they pro- 
 ject far over the finger ends and are trimmed into a sharp 
 point serving as symbols of the idler or fop, — each is 
 offensive to good taste. In the past the cosmetics of the 
 nails was considered in the light of a luxury to be indulged 
 in only by the rich and idle, but today their care is a matter 
 of necessity. The modern cosmetics of the nails have been 
 rendered simple and efficient through our increased knowl- 
 edge of this anatomy and physiology of the latter, together 
 with the refinement and greater variety of needed instru- 
 ments, and the more scientific medicinal preparations 
 available to promote normal nail health and growth; and 
 through the prevention or cure of unsightly diseased con- 
 ditions which might wholly or in part destroy the nail, or 
 
 (229) 
 
230 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 permanently mar its beauty. There is no mystery about 
 the care of the nails — indeed the subject is a very simple 
 one — and beautiful nails may be secured as the result of 
 but little thought and care. 
 
 Anatomy of the Nails. 
 
 The nails are flattened, elastic plates of a horny 
 texture, which cover the Dorsal surface of the terminal 
 phalanges of the fingers and toes. They are peculiar 
 modifications of the epidermis, or false skin, and are com- 
 posed of closely united plates of horny epithelial cells. 
 They are derived principally from the Stratum Lucidum, 
 one of the layers of the false skin, and are therefore a 
 peculiar modification of the skin itself. 
 
 Each nail is convex on its outer surface and concave 
 within, and exists as a large exposed body which ends 
 anteriorly in the projecting free edge, and posteriorly as 
 the root, which extends some considerable distance be- 
 neath the over-hanging upper margin of the groove or 
 nail fold; at the sides the borders of the nail are covered 
 by the nail walls. That part of the finger upon which the 
 nail rests has a rich nerve and blood supply, and is called 
 the nail bed; the posterior part of which, covered by the 
 root of the nail, is called the matrix. The posterior part 
 of the nail is usually lighter in color, and extends beyond 
 the nail fold as a pale, projecting, convex area called the 
 lunula. The nail is attached throughout its entire extent 
 to the nail bed, but the transformation of the deeper cells 
 into the horny plates of the nail takes place only over the 
 matrix, each particle of newly formed nail substance push- 
 ing before it the older, already existing part of the nail at 
 the average rate of one thirty-second part of an inch per 
 week. 
 
^ 
 
PLATE IV. 
 
 FINGER NAIL COMPLETELY ISOLATED. SEEN FROM 
 CONVEX SIDE. 
 
 a. Free edge of nail. 
 
 b. Lateral margin of nail. 
 
 c. Lunula. 
 
 d. Body of the nail. 
 
 e. Nail root. 
 
 f. concealed margin of the nail. 
 
The Finger and Toe Nails. 231 
 
 The Nail Bed is composed of the Corium, or true 
 skin, and that layer of the Epidermis, or false skin, which 
 corresponds to the Stratum Malpigii. 
 
 The Corium consists of bundles of fibro elastic tis- 
 sue arranged parallel to the long axis of the finger; 
 the longitudinal bundles being supplemented by vertical 
 bundles extending from the superficial layer to the Perios- 
 teum, or the membrane which surrounds the bone. 
 
 The Malpigian Layer serves to fill up the inequali- 
 ties between the papillae and the ridges of the Corium. 
 The nail fold and the nail wall are of the same general 
 structure as the skin. The nail plate itself has no blood or 
 nerve supply; but it may be noted that each digital nerve 
 gives an especial branch of large size to the pulp of the 
 finger, and this explains the intense pain felt when a for- 
 eign body is thrust under the nail 
 
 The Color of the Nails. 
 
 The color of the nails must harmonize with anatomic 
 conditions. At the base of the nail the Lunula should be 
 a delicate pink- white shade; above the nail bed, pink- 
 white ; and along the free rim, which should form a gentle 
 curve, a dim white. 
 
 The Shape of the Nails. 
 
 The shape and length of the nail should conform 
 to the dictates of fashion and the appropriate demands 
 of business. Extremely long or short nails, or very 
 pointed nails, are no longer considered proper, for extreme 
 length of the finger nails is unsightly, as all extremes are 
 apt to be, and in addition they are impractical and a hin- 
 drance to the ordinary use of the hand. Conversely, the 
 
232 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 nails should not be worn too short as they cannot fulfill 
 their purpose which lies not only in giving strength to the 
 sensitive finger ends in manual labor, but also in enabling 
 one to perform a thousand little mechanical acts such as 
 the picking up of a pin. Cosmetically they shorten the 
 fingers and impair their grace and symmetry. The nail 
 should project in a straight line until it leaves its side 
 groove, the free edge extending for a short distance 
 beyond the finger tip. The nails may be worn slightly 
 pointed or with a rounding edge which should correspond 
 to the curved line behind. Nails that are well cared for 
 and trimmed according to this principle, create the im- 
 pression of extraordinary beauty; the nail itself gaining 
 much in cosmetic appearance, while the finger points ap- 
 pear longer, and the entire hand more slender and sym- 
 metrical. 
 
 Shortening the Nails. 
 
 The frequency of cutting the nails is necessarily de- 
 pendent upon the requirements of maintaining their 
 proper length. While the average rate of growth is one 
 thirty-second of an inch per week, this rate of growth 
 not only varies in different individuals and in the hands 
 and feet, but also in the same person at various times of 
 life and in different degrees of health. 
 
 The nails should never be cut at the corners and sides 
 more than in the middle in order that the sides may be 
 short, as this practice will result in an ingrowing of the 
 nails. 
 
 The instrument selected for trimming the nails de- 
 pends largely upon one's preference and the circumstances 
 under which the nails are trimmed. The professional 
 manicurists almost invariably make use of the scissors, 
 while the individuals who trim their own nails may prefer 
 
-a 
 
 \r 
 
 / \ 
 
PLATE V. 
 MATRIX OF THE NAIL, OR NAIL BED. 
 
 a. Finger tip. 
 
 b. Nail bed. 
 
 c. Xail wall. 
 
 (1. Matrix of the nail; partially covered by the nail roof, or nail fold, 
 e. Xail fold. 
 
The Finger and Toe Nails. 233 
 
 to use a knife. Some eminent German authorities give 
 the preference to a sharp knife, but if this is not available 
 they advise soaking the finger tips in hot, soapy water 
 until the nails are sufficiently softened, and then cutting 
 with a pair of sharp scissors. In my opinion the choice 
 of instruments is not so important if the shortening be 
 properly done. The objection to the use of the knife is 
 the tendency to undue shortening of the nails, especially 
 at the corners ; while the fault with the scissors lies in the 
 tearing, splitting effect upon the nail, which result is espe- 
 cially pronounced if the scissors are dull or if the nail is 
 dry or brittle. 
 
 Trimming. 
 
 To prepare for trimming, soften finger nails by a 
 thorough soaking in warm soapy water, or in warm oil if 
 preferred. Then trim from center to side to convenient 
 length and finish the operation with a file. 
 
 Filing. 
 
 File nail from side to center. After filing soak finger 
 tips in an antiseptic solution which will also serve as a 
 bleaching agent and soften the cuticle; for which purpose 
 the following preparation will be found efficient : 
 
 Hydrogen Peroxide 2 ounces 
 
 Rose Water 1 ounce 
 
 Benzoin 1 9 drops 
 
 Use as directed. 
 
 Cleansing the Nails. 
 
 The cleanliness of the nails is an important factor in 
 the care of the hands, since they cannot pass as clean 
 when the nails are soiled. This is best accomplished by 
 
234 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 washing, with the aid of a nail brush. Should something 
 more be required a small pointed stick of orange wood is 
 best. The constant use of a knife or file to assist in cleans- 
 ing the under surface of the nail end will make it ragged 
 and rough, while the persistent use of the orange stick will 
 leave the surface smooth and afford less opportunity for 
 foreign matter to adhere. Remove any stain from under- 
 neath the nail by applying a bleach with the orange wood 
 stick. 
 
 Hang Nails. 
 
 In uncared for nails one finds a small, thin membrane 
 creeping out from the root over the face of the nail, which 
 gradually becomes thinner as it extends and which serves 
 to obscure the lunula. On both sides of the nail this little 
 membrane assumes the form of a peak which loosens from 
 the side nail grooves and forms the undesirable hang nail. 
 
 Hang nails are only found upon cosmetically neg- 
 lected or improperly treated nails, and not only result in 
 impairing their beauty, but are also the source of many 
 infectious diseases. 
 
 Treatment. 
 
 Loosen hang nails with cuticle knife or orange stick 
 and cut them off as close to their roots as possible. If the 
 hang nail is thoroughly loosened and cut^ close to the root 
 it will not reappear ; otherwise it will continue to grow and 
 prove annoying. After removal, a nail cream or ointment 
 may be applied. 
 
 Treating the Cuticle. 
 
 The cuticle around the sides, and at the base of the 
 nail will, if uncared for, grow forward over the base of 
 the nail and partially or wholly obscure the Lunula. The 
 effect is unsightly and is due to neglect. To prevent this 
 
The Finger and Toe Nails. 235 
 
 condition, massage of the base of the nail nightly with cold 
 cream will keep the cuticle loosened and in its proper posi- 
 tion. The best movement is that used in putting on a pair 
 of gloves — simply a smoothing and working back of the 
 cuticle. 
 
 Treatment for Dry, Brittle Nails. 
 
 The nails should be nourished and softened by apply- 
 ing a good cold cream to the nails and the skin surround- 
 ing them. Once or twice during the day the finger tips 
 should be held in warm olive oil. The following prepara- 
 tion should be applied at night and loose, clean gloves 
 worn. 
 
 Cream for the Nails. 
 
 Spermaceti i-J drams 
 
 White Wax ij drams 
 
 Oil of Sweet Almonds i-J ounces 
 
 Alkanet root i dram 
 
 Oil of Rose Geranium 15 drops 
 
 Melt the first four ingredients, strain, beat until 
 nearly cold ; then add the oil of rose geranium. Pour into 
 wide mouthed porcelain bottles or jars. 
 
 Bleaching the Hands. 
 
 The skin of the hands may be whitened if desired, in 
 the following manner : Thoroughly wash hands and fore- 
 arms with warm soft water and soap, dry carefully, and 
 apply the following preparation which makes a most effi- 
 cient whitening paste, especially adapted for ladies' use : 
 
 Powdered white castile soap 4 ounces 
 
 Powdered Orris Root 1 ounce 
 
 Corn Starch i-J drams 
 
 Glycerine i-J ounces 
 
 Oil of Lemon 45 minims 
 
236 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Mix thoroughly the glycerine and starch, and heat in 
 a porcelain vessel until a translucent jelly is formed; then 
 add other ingredients. The paste may be thinned if de- 
 sired by the addition of glycerine or water. 
 
 Directions: Apply at bed hour. Cotton gloves 
 may be worn during the night. 
 
 Molding. 
 
 Molding of the hands and fingers is best attained by 
 means of massage. Apply a good massage cream and 
 massage all joints of fingers and thumb with a twisting 
 movement, going over fingers in this manner several times, 
 and pressing finger tips to a point to make them more 
 tapering. This will reduce the size of the joints and make 
 the muscles more pliable. Finish treatment with a vigor- 
 ous slapping to remove the superfluous fat from a hand 
 that is too plump, and to strengthen and fill out the muscles 
 of one too thin. Remove the massage cream which has 
 been applied at beginning of the treatment, by means of a 
 soft towel, and apply any toilet powder desired. 
 
 The Manicure. 
 
 A complete set of instruments used for the manicure 
 embrace the following : 
 
 1 . One thin, very flexible file. 
 
 2 . One pair of cuticle scissors, with small curved blades 
 and sharp points. 
 
 3 . Two orange sticks ; one flat at the end, used to loosen 
 and push back the cuticle; one trimmed to a point, 
 around which a small amount of medicated cotton is 
 wrapped, with which the free edge of the nail is 
 cleaned. 
 
The Finger and Toe Nails. 237 
 
 4. One cuticle blade, not extremely sharp, with which to 
 remove the white membrane that in neglected nails 
 clings to the base and obscures the Lunula. 
 
 5. One small brush after the fashion of a child's tooth 
 brush with which to brush away nail dust or any tiny 
 particles of cuticle or membrane that have been 
 loosened. 
 
 6. An emery board six inches long, having a fine and a 
 coarse side with which to smooth the nails after the 
 initial filing or trimming. 
 
 7. Small jar of powdered pumice stone and French 
 chalk, to be used in smoothing a roughened nail 
 surface. 
 
 8. Small jar of any good cold cream to be applied on the 
 cotton-wrapped point of the orange stick in working 
 back the cuticle. 
 
 9. Two buffers; one of small size and covered with 
 chamois with which the polishing powders and 
 creams are first applied, and which is used for the 
 first polishing; the second, larger, and covered with 
 chamois or leather, very soft and padded and scru- 
 pulously clean, with which to polish the nails after 
 they have been washed. 
 
 To Manicure the Nails Properly. 
 
 First, with the long, flexible file reduce the nail to the 
 desired length and shape, moving the file swiftly from 
 sides to center of nail. Then immerse the nails in a bowl 
 of warm water to which enough good liquid soap has been 
 added to make it the consistency of thin syrup, allowing 
 them to remain in the water five minutes (prolonged soak- 
 ing renders the cuticle too soft). Dry the fingers, and 
 with the flattened end of an orange stick dipped in cold 
 cream, gently loosen and push back the adherent cuticle 
 
238 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 until it is entirely free from the nail surface. Upon nails 
 that are not regularly cared for it is sometimes necessary 
 to use the cuticle scissors in removing small torn particles ; 
 but avoid cutting the cuticle when possible, as hang nails, 
 the result of improper trimming, may result. Now with 
 the dull-bladed cuticle knife remove all adhering white 
 membrane around the base of the nail, being careful not 
 to cut or mar its surface. In nails that have been neg- 
 lected the Lunula or half moon will not at first appear; 
 but after two or three manicurings it is bound to do so, if 
 the cuticle is properly pressed back and the white scaly 
 membrane is removed. Always use plenty of cold cream 
 upon the cuticle blade and the nails. Next, with a pointed 
 orange stick wrapped with cotton and dipped in peroxide 
 remove all particles of dirt adhering to the free edge of 
 the nail, being careful not to penetrate the underlying skin 
 or flesh. Do not permit the nail surface to be scraped 
 with a steel instrument, as unsightly furrows will result; 
 if these are present such scraping will increase them. 
 With the finer side of an emery board gently file away 
 particles of nail that the steel file and the soaking in hot 
 water have not removed. Now with the small brush dip 
 lightly into the pumice and prepared chalk, and brush the 
 nail surface softly, four to six strokes to each nail. 
 
 Wash the hand and nails, using a nail brush and 
 soap, thus removing all foreign matter. Dry the hand 
 and nails thoroughly and with the tip of the finger apply 
 a small amount of the nail tint or polish. If in liquid form 
 it is best to use a polishing powder in connection with it, 
 this to be applied to the buffer instead of the nail. With 
 the small chamois buffer polish the nails by moving it 
 swiftly back and forth, but avoid any burning sensation 
 caused by excessive friction. Again wash the nails thor- 
 oughly, and dry. Now give them a careful overlooking 
 
The Finger and Toe Nails. 239 
 
 and remove with scissors or orange stick any clinging 
 particles. Finish by polishing the nail with the larger 
 chamois or leather buffer, or if preferred, with the fleshy 
 part of the palm below the base of the thumb, as this will 
 give a more brilliant and lasting lustre than the polish 
 given with a buffer. 
 
 Daily attention is required if the nails are to be kept 
 in perfect condition, but this does not imply a thorough 
 manicuring, nor would such be advisable. Too frequent 
 polishing is as bad as too frequent paring since it has a 
 tendency to make the nails thin and weak, thereby taking 
 away the support from the finger tips and destroying the 
 slender shape of the finger ends. It is well to give the 
 nails a few minutes care each day ; pushing back the cuticle 
 with the orange stick, apply a little cold cream to the base 
 of the nail, remove any particles of foreign matter from 
 underneath the free edge, and use the buffer or palm to 
 produce the desired polish. The resulting effect fully 
 repays one for the time so spent. 
 
 Cosmetic preparations intended for the care and pres- 
 ervation of the nails are demanded by good taste and are 
 of universal use. A nail ointment, polishing powder, or 
 nail bleach should be free from alkali if the best results 
 are to be obtained. 
 
 There are many preparations on the market, some of 
 which are more or less injurious to the nails, rendering 
 them extremely brittle and prone to easy splitting and 
 breaking. The following formulae are for preparations 
 that will satisfy every demand of elegance, efficiency and 
 harmlessness. 
 
240 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails, 
 
 Nail Bleaches. 
 
 The juice of a lemon combined with a little salt makes 
 a good bleach in the absence of a specific preparation. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 g OXALIC ACID NAIL BLEACH. 
 
 Oxalic Acid I dram 
 
 Rose Water 2 ounces 
 
 Apply to nails with friction by means of soft leather 
 or flannel. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 ^ CITRIC ACID NAIL BLEACH. 
 
 Citric Acid 1 dram 
 
 Rose Water 2 ounces 
 
 Apply to nails with friction by means of soft leather 
 or flannel. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 ^ ACETIC ACID NAIL BLEACH. 
 
 Acetic Acid 1 dram 
 
 Rose Water 2 ounces 
 
 Apply to nails with friction by means of soft leather 
 or flannel. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 ^ TARTARIC ACID NAIL BLEACH. 
 
 Tartaric Acid 1 dram 
 
 Tincture of Myrrh 1 dram 
 
 Distilled water enough to make 2 ounces 
 
 Dissolve the acid in the water, add the other ingre- 
 dients and strain. Dip the nails in this solution, wipe 
 nearly dry and polish with chamois. 
 
The Finger and Toe Nails. 241 
 
 5 No. 5. 
 Sodium Perborate 2 ounces 
 
 Mix one teaspoonful in one ounce of water and apply 
 solution to finger nails with nail brush, then dry and polish. 
 This is a most efficient cleansing and bleaching agent. 
 
 Nail Polishes. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 NAIL POLISH (POWDER). 
 
 Tin Oxide ij ounces 
 
 Carmine 7\ grains 
 
 Oil Bergamot 4 minims 
 
 Oil Lavender 4 minims 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Apply powder to nail and polish with buffer. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 NAIL POLISH (POWDER). 
 
 A superlative nail polish is prepared as follows : 
 
 Putty powder 2 ounces 
 
 Sodium Perborate i dram 
 
 Carmine 20 grains 
 
 Perfume to suit 
 
 Triturate the putty powder and carmine, then add the 
 other ingredients. 
 
 Apply to nails and polish with buffer. 
 
 *16 
 
242 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 ^ NAIL POLISH (PASTE). 
 
 White Wax 3 drams 
 
 Oil Sweet Almonds . 3 drams 
 
 Carmine 45 grains 
 
 Powdered Talcum 40 grains 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Apply to nails and polish with buffer. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 £ NAIL POLISH (WATER). 
 
 Distilled Water 2 ounces 
 
 Alcohol if ounces 
 
 Oxide of Tin 2-J drams 
 
 Carmine 15 grains 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Apply to nails and polish with buffer. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 £ NAIL POLISH (WATER). 
 
 Distilled Water 5 ounces 
 
 Sulphuric acid 2\ drams 
 
 Tinct. Benzoin 75 minims 
 
 Citric Acid 75 grains 
 
 Mix and strain. 
 
 Apply to nails by means of a soft leather or flannel, 
 and polish. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 £ NAIL ENAMEL. 
 
 Paraffin wax 1 dram 
 
 Chloroform 2 ounces 
 
 Oil of Rose Geranium 4 drops 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Apply the enamel to nails with chamois. 
 
The Finger and Toe Nails. 245 
 
 Absence of Nail Plates. 
 
 When through accident or disease the nail plate has 
 been permanently lost, efforts have been made to restore 
 the cosmetic appearance of the finger by supplying an arti- 
 ficial nail. Artificial nails are usually made of celluloid 
 or ivory, but on account of the difficulty of securely fasten- 
 ing the rigid plates upon the nail bed this procedure has 
 not met with much success. In any event celluloid plates 
 are not recommended on account of their inflammable 
 nature. 
 
 Warped Nails and Deviations From the Normal 
 
 Positions. 
 
 This condition is due solely to accident or disease, and 
 relief should be expected only from the qualified physician 
 or surgeon who is competent through special training to 
 remedy the condition. 
 
 Discoloration of the Nail Plates. 
 
 Discolorations of the nail may be temporary or per- 
 manent, and may occur as the result of artificial stains 
 locally applied, as the result of medicine taken internally, 
 or as a consequence of disease or injury. Externally ap- 
 plied, pigments do not penetrate deeply into the horn sub- 
 stance, but the continuous application to the nails of stains 
 may result in a discoloration which is difficult to remove, 
 especially if some of the stain has found entrance into the 
 nail bed. Stains of this nature may be removed through 
 the use of bleaching agents, or through thoroughly scrub- 
 bing the nails, or by means of sandpaper or file. 
 
 The discoloration of the nails due to the effects of 
 medicine internally administered, such as the deposits 
 found about the nails as a result of the administration of 
 
 / 
 
246 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 the Silver Salts, can be corrected only through the with- 
 drawal of the offending drugs, together with the adoption 
 of proper means to hasten their elimination. The correc- 
 tion of discolorations due to disease depends primarily 
 upon the removal of the cause. 
 
 White Spots in the Nail. 
 
 Under the caption of discoloration of the nails we 
 include the variation in color caused by the presence of 
 white spots or streaks, which range in size from small 
 spots or lines, to areas so large as to cover the entire nail 
 plate. The white spots are caused by a collection of small 
 air bubbles in the nail plate between the transparent nail 
 cells, and are usually found among people who make no 
 attempt to care for the nails, and among those who take 
 improper care of the nails. Injury inflicted by the care- 
 less pushing back of the nail epidermis is a frequent cause 
 of white spots, although in rare instances the entrance of 
 air between the cells of the plate is caused by disease. 
 The white spots are formed in the soft part of the nail 
 plate immediately over the matrix, and their progress 
 toward the free edge of the nail is due to nail growth. 
 They can be prevented by adopting scientific measures for 
 the care of the nails, and by the cure of any constitutional 
 or local disease, if disease is the cause. 
 
 Treatment. 
 
 White spots can be eradicated only through such 
 trimming as is made possible by the growth of the nails; 
 but thorough polishing will serve to render their presence 
 less noticeable. 
 
 Apparent discolorations due to the presence of blood 
 under the nail, as the result of accident, are usually ab- 
 sorbed, are temporary in nature, and require no treatment. 
 
The Finger and Toe Nails. 247 
 
 Under discoloration of the nails we do not include 
 those cases of dark pigmentation of the lunula which is 
 a characteristic of the negro race. An individual belong- 
 ing to a dark pigmented race does not possess the light 
 colored area at the base of the nail which is a character- 
 istic of those who are of the white race, and by this sign 
 an individual of "white blood" whose skin has become 
 dark through exposure to the elements, or a colored man 
 whose skin has become light through protection from the 
 elements, can be differentiated one from the other. 
 
 Softening of the Nail Plates. 
 
 Softening of the nail plate is frequently met with in 
 young girls. It usually accompanies or is the result of 
 lowered vitality, and is marked by excessive perspiration 
 of the hands. This condition may result also from the 
 effects of an eczema, or from the action of soap or lye. 
 
 Treatment. 
 
 Iron in an easily assimilated form should be pre- 
 scribed to correct the anaemia. For the excessive sweat- 
 ing the local application of Tincture of Belladonna either 
 diluted or full strength is the best treatment. If a powder 
 is desired the following will be found valuable: 
 
 Salicylic Acid 20 grains 
 
 Zinc Oxide 1 ounce 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Apply as a dusting powder. 
 
 Furrows of the Nail Plates. 
 
 Furrows are frequently found extending throughout 
 the length or across the breadth of the nail plate. They 
 
248 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 may be so shallow as to be hardly noticeable, or may pene- 
 trate deep into the substance of the nail; they may be 
 found singly or arranged in rows ; and may be caused by 
 a variety of conditions, such as mental overwork, or the 
 result of fevers with a consequent disturbance of nail 
 nutrition. The length furrows appear almost universally 
 on the nails of old people. 
 
 Treatment. 
 
 Since the transverse furrows progress as a result of 
 nail growth toward the end of the nail, they will be 
 eventually removed by the trimming process. If their 
 presence is caused by local disease the disease should be 
 corrected. The longitudinal furrows cannot be removed 
 by trimming, but the appearance of the nails can be vastly 
 improved by thoroughly polishing, which will render the 
 furrows much less apparent. 
 
 Biting of the Nails. 
 
 Biting the nails is a morbid habit frequently practiced 
 by anaemic and nervous children, and sometimes by adults 
 of both sexes. It is said that nail biters are often poor 
 scholars, which condition may be explained by an existing 
 nervous or other unhealthy condition. If the habit is 
 firmly established it is unconsciously indulged in. The 
 habit of biting the nails, if persistently followed, results 
 in misshapen fingers, with club shaped ends, and is accom- 
 paned by a real shortening of the fingers. 
 
 Treatment. 
 
 A careful examination of the bowel secretions of chil- 
 dren for worms should never be omitted, and all existing 
 causes of ill health should be corrected. Locally a solution 
 of quinine dissolved in Acetone in the proportion of one 
 
The Finger and Toe Nails. 249 
 
 to ten, or some equally harmless medicinal preparation of 
 a bitter nature, should be applied to the finger tips. This 
 failing, gloves stitched about the wrist should be worn 
 constantly until the habit is corrected. 
 
 Eczema of the Nails. 
 
 Eczema of the nails usually begins upon the skin of 
 the fingers and extends to the nail organs, or it may be 
 localized on the finger nails. It results in a more or less 
 severe inflammation of the nail walls; and the nail plate 
 may loosen, with the formation of a thin, watery secre- 
 tion. The disease may be confined to one nail, or several 
 nails may be involved; and unless cured, result in various 
 defects of growth and color. 
 
 Treatment. 
 
 The fingers should be soaked for half an hour in hot 
 water to which soap or soda has been added, and the fol- 
 lowing preparation applied locally : 
 
 Anthrasol 5 drams 
 
 Salicylic Acid 2\ drams 
 
 Olive Oil 12J drams 
 
 Mix. 
 
 Apply locally. 
 
 Diseases of the Nail Epidermis. 
 
 One of the most frequent disorders about the nail is 
 the result of infections from small skin wounds. When 
 the nails are improperly cared for and become too dry, 
 small tears which lead to small splinter-like detachments 
 of epidermis are found. If neglected, serious disorders of 
 the nail organs may result. 
 
250 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 Treatment. 
 
 The treatment consists in the evacuation of any secre- 
 tion which may be present, the application of an antiseptic 
 solution, and sensible cosmetic treatment of the nails. 
 
 The Toe Nails. 
 
 The cosmetic care of the toe nails is essentially the 
 same as that of the finger nails, the extent of their beauty 
 culture being a matter of personal taste. For those of 
 fastidious tastes and ample leisure, the beauty culture of 
 the nails should be encouraged and can with perfect pro- 
 priety be carried to an extent which might seem absurd 
 to those whose situation in life or whose personal tastes 
 would condemn such care. The average individual is sat- 
 isfied to carry out the ordinary details of hygiene in order 
 that cleanliness and comfort may be maintained. 
 
 The important essential in caring for the toe nails is 
 based upon attention to the details of trimming in order 
 to avoid ingrowing toe nails, which naturally are influ- 
 enced by the daily use of the feet and by the constant 
 wearing of boots or shoes which are frequently tight or 
 ill-fitting. The nail should extend to the end of, or just 
 beyond the tip of the toe in an almost straight line; the 
 corners and sides of the nail should not be cut or filed, if 
 one would avoid the infliction of ingrowing toe nails with 
 their attendant pain and discomfort. 
 
 While it is not our intention to enter into a discussion 
 of the aflections of the toe nails, a few words concerning 
 this very prevalent condition may not be amiss. 
 
 Ingrowing Toe Nails. 
 
 The most common and distressing afTection of the 
 toe nails is the so-called ingrowing toe nail, which usually 
 
The Finger and Toe Nails. 251 
 
 begins by an irritation in the fold of skin at one or both 
 sides of the nail. The skin gradually thickens and press- 
 ing against the corner of the nail, begins to ulcerate. The 
 nail at this point being cut away, a sharp corner in the nail 
 is formed farther back which causes additional irritation 
 with increasing ulceration until medical or surgical relief 
 is obtained. 
 
 Treatment. 
 
 The wearing of correct footwear is important. If 
 seen early, cleanse the toe and apply cold, wet dressings 
 until the inflammation has subsided; then with an orange 
 wood stick raise the corner of the nail that is causing the 
 irritation and pack under it lint or cotton which has been 
 saturated in a solution of: Alum six drams to hot water 
 one ounce. Trim the nail straight across and cut a V 
 shape in the center as far back as possible, then scrape thin 
 along the middle line from the notch to base of nail. This 
 failing to afford relief, the side and wall of the offending 
 nail should be removed by surgical means. The instru- 
 ments required by a chiropodist for the care of the 
 nails are : 
 
 1 . Heavy scissors or knife for trimming the nails. 
 
 2. Medium thin, flexible files of good quality which can 
 be used in the delicate side grooves. 
 
 3 . A nail scissors with curved blades. 
 
 4. A sharp knife to remove the loosened parts of 
 epidermis. 
 
 5 . A nail tweezer. 
 
 6. A stick of. ivory or orange wood to loosen the epi- 
 dermis on the nail. 
 
 7 . A narrow strip of emery board which may be used in 
 place of the file. 
 
252 Science and Care of the Hair and Nails. 
 
 8 . A polishing cushion which should be small, hard, and 
 covered with leather. 
 
 9 . A small hook to pull out little nail parts. 
 
 The cosmetic preparations and their method of appli- 
 cation to the finger nails serve all purposes equally well 
 when applied to the toe nails.