)^loiDcrs ■^ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. Chap..£jI>^opyri'glit No. Shelf... JS.^ 5 ?> UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. /*UG' ^S Jfiyg FLOWERS How to Grow Them By eben e/rexford Philadelphia The Penn Publishing Company 1898 14041 Copyright 1898 by The Penn Publishing Company Sf,. TWOCOFidSRcCtlVED. 'esfc. CONTENTS PAGE Introduction. A Word with the Amatjeur Florist . . 5 I. Soil for Pot Plants.— Hints about Potting and Eepotting 9 II. Watering Plants.— Drainage 18 III. Exposure— Showering — General Hints .... 23 IV. Insect Enemies 31 V. Propagation 37 VI. Summer Care of House Plants 40 VII. Geraniums 47 VIII. Fuchsias 53 IX. The Chrysanthemum 60 X. Begonias 66 XI. The Abutilon, the Lantana, and the Helio- , trope . . . .• 71 XII. The Calla, the Agapanthus, and the Glox- inia «"j^- >-7^ XIII. Salvia, Jasmine, and Oleander 82 iii X iv Contents PAGE XIV. Roses, Carnations, and Hydrangea .... 86 XY. The Primrose, the Primula, and Plumbago . 93 XYI. The Amaryllis, Imantophyllum, and Yal- LOTTA 97 XVII. Decorative Plants 101 XVIII. Vines for the Window Garden 107 XIX. Window-Boxes 110 XX. Hanging-Baskets 116 XXI. A List of Miscellaneous Plants Adapted to Culture in the Window-Garden 120 XXII. Bulbs in Winter 123 XXIII. How TO Make and Care For the Lawn ... 132 XXIV. Planting the Lawn 110 XXV. The Out-door Garden 119 XXVI. Hardy Border Plants 160 XXVII. Table Decorations 168 INTRODUCTION A WORD WITH THE AMATEUR FLORIST In order to grow flowers well — and the true lover of flowers will not be satisfied to grow them in any other way — one must understand their habits and requirements. Unless these are understood the cul- tivation of flowers will be largely experimental in its nature, and no one will feel confident of doing the right thing in the right way at the right time. The experiment may prove successful, but in many in- stances it will prove to be a failure. It is therefore desirable that the beginner should understand cer- tain general principles upon which successful flori- culture is based, and it is the object of this little book to teach these principles in a concise, common- sense, practical manner. Much of the information necessary for the success- ful growing of flowers must come from a study of the plants grown. This cannot be taught by books. It is the result of personal observation and experi- ence. The person who has the best phmts is the one who gives them most attention. I do not mean 5 6 "ffntroDuction by this the person who works among them the most, but the one who studies their peculiarities and knows just the kind of treatment each plant needs. Such a person goes to work intelligently, and his work tells, because it is the result of thought and good judgment. One knows, when starting a plant, just what to do to develop it fully, because he under- stands it as he understands one of his own children. The thoughtless amateur will at the outset attempt to grow all plants after tlie same general plan, but after a little he will see that plants differ in their natures quite as much as a family of children, and by and by he will see that it is necessary to vary and modify any general rules that may be laid down, and suit the treatment to the plant rather than to oblige all plants to respond to a particular kind of treatment. It may seem to the amateur florist that it is a great undertaking to do this, but it is not so to the true lover of flowers. There is a pleasure in watching one's plants grow and develop that makes the work delightful, and almost uncon- sciously one acquires the knowledge necessar}^ to make a successful florist. The amateur florist, as a general thing, is very enthusiastic at the start, and almost always attempts more than he is well able to carry through. He is not content to begin in a small way and enlarge his 1Intro&uction 7 garden or his windoAV collection as the knowledge of what is needed groAYS. But this is precisel}^ Avhat should be done. Begin in a modest fashion, with a few plants of easy culture. By the time you have learned how to grow these well you will feel able to undertake the culture of others not quite as easily grown, and in this way you go on, by easy stages, until 3^ou understand enough about most plants adapted to general cultivation to warrant you in attempting to grow them. Be content to go slowly at first, like the child who must master the alphabet before he is equal to the demands of the first reader. Learn the general principles well, and the rest will come in such an easy way that you will hardly realize how it came. And be content, also, to begin with plants which are not very exacting in the way of treatment required. Select such kinds as seem to grow well with most cultivators, and try to grow them better than your neighbor does. A very com- mon plant, well grown, is vastly more satisfactory than a rarer plant poorlv grown. Qualit}^ should be considered as more important than quantity, or any- thing else connected with jouv plants. Aim to get out of any plant you grow all there is in it. Develop fully all its possibilities, and you will have a speci- men to be proud of, no matter how common it may be. 8 1[ntro^uctlon And be thorough with your work. When yon have learned what shouhi be done, aim always to do that work well. Slipshod work among plants re- sults in plants that always have a slipshod appear- ance. They show the neglect of their owner. Unices you love plants well enough to give them the best of care, do not attempt to grow tliem. FLOWERS CHAPTER I SOIL FOR POT PLANTS — HINTS ABOUT POTTING AND REPOTTING Many amateur florists labor under the impression that ahnost any soil will grow plants well. While it is true that most plants will grow in most soils, it is also true that, to get the best results, j^ou must adapt the soil to the plant. In other words, after learning what kind of soil a plant does best in, aim to give it that soil if possible. If you are unable to find it at hand, manufacture it by combining other soils, or elements of soils. This can easily be done in such a manner as to meet the requirements of most plants. If your soil is rather heavy, with more clay than loam in it, you can make it light and friable by adding sand. The kind of sand used should be coarse and sharp. The quantity needed can be determined only by experiment. Mix some with 9 10 $" lowers the soil, then take it up in the hand and squeeze it iirnily together. If, when the pressure is relaxed, the soil crumbles and falls apart, or shows a tend- ency to do so, it is safe to conclude that you have used enough sand, and no more need be added. Such a soil will answer well as the basis of a com- post for nearly all strong-rooted plants. Plants hav- ing finer roots — roots of the fibrous sort — will do better in a soil containing more loam than clay, and possibly leaf mold might suit them still better than loam. This depends largely on the nature of the plant, and is a matter to be decided by practical tests rather than by any instruction that can be given here. Many kinds of plants, like the fuchsia, the gloxinia, and the begonia, like a soil composed largely of leaf mold, because it is made up chiefiy of vegetable matter. If leaf mold is not obtainable, a most excellent substitute for it is found in the soil taken from old sods. Cat the sod with a sharp spade, and turn it over. Examine it, and you will find that inniie- diately below the grass growing on its surface it is full of very fine, hair-like roots. Shave ofi' all that part of it containing these roots, and use it in place of the leaf mold, which can only be found in woods where old leaves have drifted in hollows, or about the roots of trees, where they have lain until thor- Soil for iPot lplant6 11 oughly decomposed, giving a soil very fine and mel- low, black in color, and rich in fertilizing elements. The substitute advised will be found almost as good in every way, if enough is used, as the roots of the grass yield a vegetable nuittcr (^uite similar in rich- ness to that from decayed leaves. Whenever you are advised to use leaf mold, and cannot get it, use grass-root soil instead, and your plants will hardly know the difference. With either of these soils some sand should be used, to keep them open and porous. Not as much will be re(iuired as Avhere clay or loam form the basis of the compost, because they are somewhat spongy, and do not pack down and become hard and compact under the applica- tion of water, as heavier soils are sure to do, unless well mixed with sand. As all soils differ in different localities, it is im- possible to lay down any fixed rule for the composi- tion of potting composts ; that is, proportions cannot be given which will secure the same results. But a good rule to go by is this : Mix in sand until the soil with which it is used shows a tendency to remain friable, whether dry or wet. Squeezing it in the hand will be a sufficient test for it when dry. To determine the nature of it when wet, fill a pot with it and pour on enougli water to thoroughly saturate it all. Then watch the result. If the water runs 12 iFlowera out readily, leaving a soil that looks wet but not muddy, you may be sure that you have it mixed in satisfactory proportions. But if the soil looks smooth, sticky, heavy, add more sand. Garden loam forms a good basis for a compost that will fully answer the requirements of nearly all the common plants one grows in the window. If it is not rich, a fertilizer must be added to make it so. I never advise the use of barnyard manures, because they almost always breed worms in the soil, and these worms are sure to injure your plants. I much prefer finely-ground bone meal. This is rich in nutritive elements, lasting in effect, and perfectly safe to use. The proportions are one teacupful to a large pailful of soil, mixing it in well. If fine, the plants soon feel the effects of it. If coarse, a longer time must elapse before it dissolves sufficiently to impart its richness to the soil. Therefore, in pur- chasing, always get that which is finely ground. If you get a plant with Avhich you are not familiar, and do not know just what kind of soil to pot it in, examine its roots. If they are few and large, like those of the rose and the geranium, and strong in appearance, give them a moderately heavy soil. If they are small and threadlike, and there are a great many of them, give them a light, spongy soil. Plants with strong, large roots like a firm soil as a Soil foe l^ot iplant6 13 general thing, and will not do well in a soil that is light and fine. On the other hand, fine-rooted plants cannot be expected to do well on heavy or compact soils, because their roots have not sufficient strength to penetrate them. A study of the roots of plants will enable one to decide satisfactorily, after a little experience, about what kind of soil your plants require. This is one of the things you must learn at the beginning of your floricultural career, and it is easy to learn it if you set about it in the right way. That way is, as I have said, by studying your plants. It is a good plan to keep a supply of potting soil on hand, as, if you have many plants, some of them will need repotting, or shifting to pots of larger size, at intervals during the season. If you have the soil ready, quite likely you will give the plant the atten- tion it needs just when it is needed ; but if you do not happen to have the necessary soil you will be apt to let the plant wait until you get a supply, and this may be too late to benefit it. Make it a rule to keep a supply of soil on hand; also to make use of it whenever you see that a plant is in need of it. To grow a plant well it must never be neglected. If you find that one has filled its old pot with roots until they form a network about the side, you may 14 3Flower0 be sure that a larger pot is demanded, and that at once. To allow a growing plant to remain in a pot too small for it is to give it a severe check — one from which it will not easily recover — and in order to properly develop a plant no check should be allowed to take place. It should be kept going ahead steadily. Therefore examine your plants fre- quently, and know the condition their roots are in. You can do this by slipping the soil out of the pot. This may seem a difficult and delicate operation to perform at first, but it is very easily done. Spread your right hand over the surface of the soil, your first and second fingers on each side of the plant ; invert the pot, tap the edge of it against some- thing hard and firm, then lift the pot with the left hand, and generally it will slip off the ball of earth without disturbing a root of the plant growing in it. If the roots, as has been said, form a network about the outside of the soil, you will know that repotting is necessary. Use for this purpose a pot one or two sizes larger than the old one. You need not disturb the plant in the least, if it is a young one, by re- potting it. Simply fill in between the old soil and the new pot with fresh soil, pushing it down firmly with the fingers, and jarring the pot a little to make sure that it gets where it belongs. Then water well, and set the plant in a shady place for two or three Soil for ipot Iplants 15 days, and your plant is ready to go on growing again. When old plants are repotted, a good deal of the old soil can be crumbled away from among the roots. If this were not done, and larger pots were given each time, they would soon require a pot so large that we could not give them a place in the window. In re- potting such plants care should be taken to disturb the old roots as little as possible. Simply crumble away the soil from about them, being careful to break none of them. When the plant is put into its new pot, or back into its old one, sift in fresh soil about these exposed roots and jar it down well, but do not press upon them with force enough to bruise them. Be tender of your plants always in all you do for them. After you have filled the pot with soil, apply enough water to saturate all of it. This will settle the earth about the roots firmly, and your plant will go on growing as if nothing had happened to it. Young plants, seedlings, and those started from cuttings, must be handled carefully in potting, as their roots are very delicate and tender and are easily injured, and injury to them is sure to result in harm to the plant. It is always best to sift the soil lightly about them, and jar it down instead of pressing it down with the fingers, as the latter operation might 16 jflowers break them. Small pots are required at first for all young plants. Those three inches across are large enough for them. Leave them in these pots until their roots have filled the soil, and then shift to pots a size or two larger. Most young plants will require two or three shifts during the season, if growing steadily. Plants a year old, or older, will not need repotting oftener than once a year. Sometimes it is not necessary to entirely repot them. Dig out as much of the old soil as you can without disturbing the roots, and put fresh soil in its place. When this is done each spring and fall, it is all the attention the plants will require in this respect. Many prefer this to entirel)^ repotting the plant, because it is less trouble. But for the first year of a plant's growth it is advisable to repot, wholly, from small pots to those of larger size. Do not make the mistake of using large pots for small f)lants. It is a common mistake, but one by all means to be avoided, because a plant with but few roots will not do so well in a large amount of soil. It is not able to make use of all the nutriment in it, and soon gets into a condition quite similar to that of a dyspeptic person who is unable to properly digest the food taken into his stomach. It is over- fed, and the result is a general weakening of the system which often results in the death of the plant. Soil tot Ipot UMante 17 A plant lacking sufficient room for its roots will be injured in consequence, and a plant given too much room, and therefore more food than it can properly make' use of, will be correspondingly injured. This shows the danger of both extremes- lack of proper food and over-feeding— and the amateur who would be successful in the cultivation of plants must avoid it. Let your repotting be governed by a knowledge of the condition of the roots, and be sure to get your knowledge from examination of the roots rather than a mere observation of the plant. CHAPTER II WATEEING PLANTS DRAIXAGE There are three ways of Avatering plant-s — two wrong ways and one right way. Some persons go on the little-and-often plan. They water then- phmts when they happen to think about it, applying only small quantities each time. The consequence is that the water does not penetrate the soil to any great depth, and that portion of the roots below the line of moisture is sure to suiter, and very often they die wholly, and the plant always has more or less of a sickly appearance. This plan is always a failure, because it does not adequately sup- ply the needs of the plant. It may be sufficient to keep it alive, but it is not sufficient to keep it in a healthy condition. Directly opposite to this is the plan of overwatering which many persons thoughtlessly follow. They water their plants thoroughly to-day. To-morrow they apply the same amount as to-day, and so they go on from one day to another. The result is that the soil is kept saturated with moisture. It is in the condition of nuul all the time — a condition that suits only aquatic plants, and one in which tlic ordinary IS TllHatenncj plants -2)ramai}e 19 plant will soon become diseased. The stagnant water will sour the soil, and the roots will begin to decay. This decay goes on because the conditions that originated if are continued, and by and by the plant dies. These are the two wrong ways, one equally as bad as the other. Extremes of this sort should be avoided, and the only way to avoid them is by watering your plants properly. And this is done by observing the following rule : When yo.u Avater a plant, do it thoroughly. Apply enough to reach all portions of the soil in the pot. Then wait until the surface of the soil looks dry be- fore more is applied. This rule, like all other rules, has its exceptions, but it is one that all amateur florists will do well to follow as closel}^ as possible. As long as the surface of the soil looks damp you may be sure that there is all the moisture in the soil below that is needed. When by evaporation this moisture has passed off to such an extent that the soil takes on a dry look, it is safe to conclude that more is needed, and then more should be applied. The experienced plant-grower will be able to Judge of the condition of the soil in other ways, but the amateur must be governed to a great extent by the appearance of the soil. It is safe to say that no plant should be given more water as lonar as the surface of the soil looks wet. 20 3flo\vcr5 Enough should bo given each time to eonipletely saturate all the soil in the pot. It' proper drainage is given all surplus water— that is. all water that the soil eannot take up and hold — will run off at the bottom of the pot. through the hole provided fortius purpose. The term " proper drainage " seems to pu/./.le many amateurs, but there is nothing about it that need puzzle any one. Orainage is provided to keep the soil above from washing down and elosing the hole in the bottom ot the pot. There should be at least an ineh of it in four and tive-ineh jK^ts, and pots of larger size should have an ineh and one-half to two inches of it. Very large pots will need three inehes of drainage. The best drainage material is made from old pots and briek. Pound it Avell, until it is broken into |neoes not larger than a marble. Vut these pieces into the bottom of your pots in the quantities advised for the various sizes, and shake them down well. Over them it is well to lay a bit of sod or some moss — something that will prevent the soil from Avorking down among them — before tilling the pot with compost. ^[any pei*sous are very careless about drainage. Some consider it a whim, and neglect it altogether, but the plants such pei*sons grow generally prove the necessitv of it. There is no whim about it. It is TIQlatciiiui KMants-Bvainaiic 21: based on a. sciontiru' |>rinci[>lo. If you would avoid tho evil sure to result I'roni too nuieli moisture in the soil you must provide some way lor surplus moisture to eseape ; and this is precisely what we do wlieu we drain our pots as here directed. With such drainage there is ahsolutcly no danger from over- watering. The soil can hold in sus[)ension only a certain amount of water. If it is not dannnctl up, and escape therehy prevented, water enough to in- jure the roots of a plant will never be retained by the soil. Therefore be sure to provide good drainage for your plants. I have advised the application of enough water to thoroughly saturate the soil each time. How can we tell when enough to do this has been given? By applying so nuich that some will run ofY through the drainage hole in the bottcMu of the pot. When we see some escaping there we may know tbat all the soil above it is wet through. From wbat has been said it will be understood that tbere is no regular w^atering time tor plants. Some have roots tbat enable tben? to make use of much more tban others. Some soils part with moist- ure mucb more rapidly than others. Some rooms are kept so warm tbat evaporation takes place quickly. When all these things are considered it will be seen that there can be no regular time for 22 ^[owers watering plants. Water must be given when the ajD- pearance of the soil shows the need of it, and not till then. Some persons say that rain or soft Avater should always be used. I have used soft water and hard Avater, and have never been able to see an}' difference in the effect on plants. I would advise taking the chill off well water in winter before applying it to very tender plants, but ordinary plants, like the geranium, do not require this. CHAPTER III EXPOSURE — SHOWERING — GENERAL HINTS The best exposure for plants is, as a general thing, a southern one. The next best is an eastern one. Some plants can be grown in western windows, but not as well as in the other exposures named, because of the intense heat of the afternoon sun. If care is taken, however, to shade the glass during the hottest part of the day, it is possible to grow plants well under these conditions, but it will necessitate a good deal more work and attention, although the true flower-lover will not mind that. He will be willing to AYork for the plants he loves. There are few plants that do well in a north win- dow. The lack of sunshine prevents the production of flowers. But some of the palms, the aspidistra, ferns, and English ivy will flourish there, if particu- lar attention is given to watering, and the " green things growing " in a sunless window will add greatly to the attraction of any room. Because of tlie ab- sence of sunlight evaporation will take place slowly from plants in a north window, and it will be neces- sary to give only the amount of Avater needed to 23 24 Jplowers keep the soil moist. More than this will bring about a souring of the soil, a condition seldom met with when plants are fully exposed to sunshine, and this is pretty sure to bring on a disease of the roots which often results in tlie sickness or death of the plant. Stir the surface of the soil two or three times a week, and let the air have free entrance to the roots of the plants. It will in some degree do for the soil what the sunshine would do for it if it had a chance to reach it. Most plants, lowering plants especially, require a good deal of sunshine. You can hardly have too much to suit the geranium, the heliotrope, the car- nation, and the rose. They must have it in order to full}'' develop the beauty of their colors. Conse- quently a south window is best of all for such plants. Others, like the fuchsia and the begonia, do not care for strong sunshine, or sunshine all the day, and these are therefore better adapted to an east window. If you can contrive to combine eastern and southern windows into a sort of southeastern corner nook for your plants you will have an ideal place for them. The sun-loving plants can have the south windows, those liking the early sunshine the east ones, and all will get the beneiit of tlio best possible light througliout the day. Never have curtains at the windows where vou Biposure— SbowcrttiQ— (Seneral Ibints 25 keep plants. If shade must be given, let it be ar- ranged by awnings from the outside. Western win- dows can be covered with vines in sunnner, thus tempering the effect of the afternoon sun to a great extent. Keep the windows open as much as pos- sible, as the glass draws the heat, and helps to burn the plants. Showering plants is of the greatest importance, nearl}' as much so as watering. Out-of-doors they get the dew daily, and the benefit of frequent showers, and as a consequence the red spider is sel- dom found on them. In the house they fail to get this moisture on their foliage, and ver}^ soon the leaves will begin to turn yellow and fall off, and the plant takes on a sickly look and generally dies, unless it is put out-of-doors. If this is done it often recovers. An examination of the under side of the yellow foliage will show that it is covered with tiny webs, in which minute red specks are seen, looking more like grains of cayenne pepper than a living creature. But watch them and you will see them move. Small as this red spider is, he is a most deadly enemy to plant growth, as he sucks the life-blood from the branches, and is sure to destroy whatever he attacks if left unchecked. Nothing will rout him but water. He revels in a dry atmospherCo Make and keep it moist, and he will take his departure. 20 3f lowers l^vorv ainatour tlovist should have a brass syringe, made expressly for the use of ilorists. With this he can throw a stream or spray of water at pleasure, and the use of it enables him to throw water just where it is most needed— against the under side of the dense foliage, for there the spider will take up his quartei^s, believing himself safer from moisture there than on the upper side of the leaf. Use this s^'ringe daily among your plants. It is a good plan to put oil-cloth or linoleum under the plant stand to pro- tect the carpets. If you start out with a daily showering of your plants, and make it a part of the regular program, you will have no trouble in keeping the spider down. But neglect this part of their care lor a week, during a warm, dry spell, and the chances are that your plants will become infested, and when the pest has once obtained a t\>othold you will lind it a hard matter to rid them of it. It is much easier to keep him away than it is to drive him away. An ounce of prevention is, in this case, worth a good many pounds of cure. In case your plants should become infested before you are aware of it, heroic and prompt measures should be resorted to at once in the extermination of the insect. In tn*der to etfect this, heat water to a temperature of 120°, and dip the infested plants iu jBiposure-Sbowcrine— General Iblnts 27 it, allowing them to remain under water for about half a minute at a time. Repeat this operation three or fonr times at intervals of half an hour, and you will be pretty sure to kill all the spiders. Then beg-in the daily showering already advised, and keep it up. Don^t wait for the spider to make a reap- pearance, but act on the defensive, and refuse him a chance to re-establish himself. In addition to the daily shower-bath, keep water evaporating on stoves, registers, or radiators in rooms where artificial heat is used. One reason Avhy so many fail to grow plants well in the living-room is the air in it is robbed of its vitality by excessive heat. We keep our rooms too warm for the health of both plants and persons. ^Moisture in the air will, to a great extent, counteract this evil. In furnace-heated houses it is almost impossible to grow plants, because the dry, intense heat extracts the vital principle from the atmosphere. ^ Plants breathe as persons do, and they cannot be expected to flourish in an air from Avhich moisture has been almost wholly taken. Tlie necessity of admitting fresh, pure air frequently, in liberal quantities, will therefore be readily understood. Make it a rule to treat your plants to a draught of outside air on every pleasant day by opening some window other than that at wdiich the plant stands, or a door some 28 aflowers distance from them. This allows the cold air to mingle with the warm air of the room as it flows in, and thus the chill is taken from it before it reaches the plants. Air from outside admitted in winter at the window where plants stand is generally cold enough to injure them, hence the advice to admit it through windows or doors some distance from them. By the daily use of the shower-bath and the regular admission of fresh air, it is often made possible to grow plants where they would be sure to die if these precautions were not attended to. The impor- tance of them will therefore be understood, and the wise florist will see that they are made a part of the regular treatment of the window-garden. It is a good plan to keep a basin of water among your plants, and have at hand a small atomizer. When- ever you are at work among them during the day spray them. It will take but a moment to do it, but the effect of this practice, if repeated often, will soon be seen in the vigorous and healthy growth of your pets. The importance of moisture on the foliage as well as at the roots of plants has not been fully realized heretofore, but Ave are rapidly coming to recognize the necessity for it. Keep the soil stirred well about your plants. This admits air freely to their roots and prevents the formation of a crust on the surface, which interferes }Sipo6Uce-Sbowerina General Ibints 29 with the free entrance of water. An old-fashioned. two-tined fork is a good tool to use in loosening the soil. Always keep your plants clean. This not only adds to their attractive appearance, hut is of great benefit, hygienically. If you allow the pores of the leaves — the lungs of the plants — to become clogged with dust, they suffer greatly, and will soon become sickly. The daily showering, which has been ad- vised, will prevent this to a great extent. It is a good plan to cover them with a light, thin cloth, while sweeping and dusting the room. Remove every dying leaf as soon as seen. Cut off all flowers as soon as they begin to fade, and never throw them down among the plants to decay. Burn them, or dispose of them in some way that will not make them a source of infection to your plants. Turn your plants at least once a week, so that the sunshine and light will have a chance to get at all sides of them. If this is not done, they will soon become one-sided, as their foliage and branches will be drawn to the light. If they show a tendency to make an unsymmetri- cal development, prune away the objectionable branches, or pinch off the ends of them, and keep them pinched back until some of the weaker branches have a chance to get a start. A strong 30 3f lowers branch will often, if left to itself, dominate the entire plant by drawing to itself the nourishment whieh ought to be shared Avith the smaller branches. Do not allow this. The nipping-off oi^ the end of it will give it a temporary clieck, during which time the rest of the plant may approi)riate some of the vital force which it has monopolized. If a plant sliows a tendency to grow up tall and branchless, cut it Ixick at least a tliird. In most in- stances, branches will start along the stalk. If only one or two start, however, cut these back as soon as they have made a growth of four or live inches, and keep on doing this until you have ol^liged the plant to tlirow out as many branches as you think necessary to make the plant bushy when developed. You can almost always force a plant to come to your terms, in this respect, if this course is pursued. CHAPTER IV INSECT ENEMIES Every one who attempts to grow plants must make up his mind at the start that it will be neces- sary, sooner or later, to wage a battle with insects. One of the most destructive enemies of plant-life is the red spider, spoken of in the last chapter. The treatment advised therein is the onl}^ successful one in fighting this pest. The aphis, or green plant louse, is generally found among all collections. Where showering is done daily and good care of the plant is taken, the aphis will almost always be kept in check, and thus pre- vented from doing much damage. But neglect your plants for a short time and you will be surprised some day to find the young and tender branches of many kinds completel}^ covered with aphides. This insect increases with wonderful rapidity, if left alone, and in a short time will ruin a collection if a per- sistent and exterminating warfare is not waged against it. The principal insecticide used in fighting the aphis is tobacco, in one form or another. Some depend 32 3flowec5 upon fumigation entirely. I consider this the most effective way of killing off the pest, but its disagree- able features are so pronounced that many persons hesitate to resort to it. The odor of burning tobacco will penetrate to every room in the house, and cling for days to everything with which it comes in con- tact. It is so strong that it often brings on nausea, and on this account few persons are able to use it in this form. But the fact that the fumes of the weed penetrate everywhere is one of the strong arguments in its favor. It searches out the nooks and corners where the aphis is likely to be in hiding, and none escape it. It is a good plan to fit up a room to be used ex- pressly for fumigating purposes. Have it apart from the main portion of the dwelling. Make it as snug and tight as possible. Let there be shelves across the middle of it, two or three feet from the floor, to set the plants on. Put some live coals in an iron pot, and over these sprinkle a quantity of tobacco leaves and stems, such as can be bought at any cigar manufactory. It is well to dampen them somewhat, as this makes them burn more slowly, and they throw off a denser smoke than the dry material. Do not put them on the coals until you have your pot or kettle in place under the plants. Then put them on and close the room tightly. Leave the plants flnscct Enemies 33 in the smoke for about fifteen minutes. At the end of that time, if the tobacco has burned well, you will find that every aphis has fallen from the plant, and is either dead or dying. Sometimes the smoke is not strong enough to kill the insects, but they will be found in a stupefied condition clinging to the branches. Set the plants over a newspaper spread out on the floor, and jar them sharply. The insects will tumble off in great quantities. Gather them up and burn them, to make sure that none revive from their temporary stupor. If you have no room that you can use for fumi= gating purposes, a large dr3^-goods box can be made to answer very well by pasting paper over its cracks to make it tight, and fitting up a door in one side to admit plants and your fumigating outfit. Tobacco tea is often used in fighting the aphis. To make it effective, a considerable quantity should be prepared, and the plants should be held upside down and dipped in it. It will be strong enough to kill the insects when about the color of ordinary tea, as used on the table. Let the plants remain in it for about five minutes. This process is a slow and laborious one, as only two or three plants can be treated at a time, and they must be held in place while their tops are under water. It is, however, quite effective, and there is but little of that un- 34 J'lowcrt? pleasant sinoU Avliich results from fumigation. Yet, for large eolleetions, I must advise the latter. But little good is done by applying tobacco tea -with a syringe. Some of the insects are sure to escape, and in a short time another application must be made. After fumigating plants, shower them well with clear water. The mealy bug is a most annoying pest when he becomes domesticated among one's plants. He looks like cotton, white and downy. He gets into the axil of the leaf, and hides in cracks and crevices where it is almost impossible to get at him. On this account one cannot tight him '" in the open." The only way to wage elfective warfare against him is by using some infusion strong enough to rout him. It must be applied with a syringe, and applied wherever there is a crack or crevice large enough for him to crawl into. I have found fir-tree oil soap to be a very reliable agent in fighting this enemy. Two ounces of it should be dissolved in water just brought to the boiling point. To this should be added enough water to make about two gallons of the infusion. AVhen it begins to cool, apply it. Be sure to use enough to reach every part of the plant. If you do not your labor will be spent for naught, for if a few of the bugs escape they will propagate rapidly and in a short time your plants will be ITnsect jBncmics 35 infested as badly as ever. This pest is generally introduced into ordinary window collections by plants bought from greenhouses, where they are almost always to be found. It is well, therefore, when you buy new plants, to look them over very carefully before putting them with your other plants. A little attention of this kind, at the proper time, may save a great deal of labor and vexation later on. Smooth-leaved plants, like the English ivy, the hoza, the lemon and orange, the oleander, the palm, and the myrtle are often attacked by what is called scale. This insect, if insect it can be called, attaches itself to the surface of the leaf, and subsists by sucking its juices. In a short time the leaf will take on a yellow look, and the whole plant will have a sickly appearance. Often the branches and stems are almost completely covered with it. Noth- , ing is more effective than the same fir-tree oil soap advised in fighting the mealy bug. Apply it with a rather stiff bristle brush. Rub the parts affected forcibly enough to dislodge the insect. Go over each plant, branch by branch, and let not one escape you. For two or three days after doing this, give the plant a thorough washing with the soapsuds, to make "assurance doubly sure." Plants are often injured by worms in the soil. The 36 3Plo\vcr5 most destruotivo kind is a small white one, which bores its way into tlie tender young roots. It is generally introduced by the use of liquid manure prepared from barn-yard soil, or by the same soil used in the potting-compost. On this account, as I have already said, I never advise the use of barn- yard manure. When the worms are found, prepare lime-water after the following plan : Take a piece of perfectly fresh lime, as large as a coti'ee-cup ; put it in an ordinary-sized pail of water and let it dissolve ; when dissolved, pour otf the clear water and apply to your plants. The sediment found in the bottom of the pail is worthless. Apply enough to each plant to thoroughly saturate all the soil around it. Unless this is done, the application Avill do no good. Many persons are under the impression that lime- water prepared in this manner is so strong that plants might be injured by it if applied in liberal quantities, but such is not the case. Water can only hold a certain amount of lime in composition — never enough to harm any plant. Bear this in mind, and do not be afraid to use enough to penetrate every portion of the soil in the pot. It is very im- portant that the lime used should be fresh. Air-slaked lime is worthless. CHAPTER V PROPAGATION Most house-plants are propagated from cuttings, which are placed in sand or earth to form roots. A cutting is a piece of branch three or four inches long, taken from some part of the plant of recent growth. Old branches are not good for this purpose, as the.y are generally covered with a tough bark, which is not fovorable to the development of roots. Neither is new, soft wood very desirable, as it often decays before a callus forms. A callus is a sort of healing-over of the edges of the cutting, and is a preparatory stage in the formation of roots. This must form before the roots can be produced. A cut- ting, in which the wood is neither very tough nor very brittle, is in al)out the right condition to root well. Bend the branch selected. If it partly breaks and partly ])ends, you may be sure it is about what you want. Cut it off with a sharp knife, unless it is a branch which can be removed entire from the parent phxnt, in which case it is better to remove it by breaking it away from the point of union. Trim away the lower leaves, leaving two or three at the 37 38 . if lowers oiul of it. Insert the base in a shallow vessel of earth, making it firm in its place by pressing the soil against it with the tingers. It will be found that nearly all cuttings root most readily and certainly in clear, sharp sand, which should be kept wet all the time : not wet enough to be in the condition of mud. with water settling to the bottom of the vessel, but with as much water in the sand as it can possibly retain without becoming muddy. Keep it in a warm place. You will be surprised to tind that .most outting-s have begun to make roots at the end of a week, and in three weeks they will be ready to put into pots. Be sure never to allow the sand to get dry. If you do your cuttings will never revive. Plants having a rather tough bark, like the Kng- lish ivy and the oleander, genemlly root better in water than in sand. Often they refuse to ptit forth roots for weeks, but do not be discouraged as long as the leaves at the end of the cutting remain fresh. It is a good plan to put them in wide-mouthed bottles liUeil Avith rain-water. Suspend them in the window where the sun will shine upon the lower part of the cutting. As the Avater evaporates, add nuu-e from time to time, keeping the bottle about two-thirds t'ull. Leave them in the water until their roots r.re two or three inches long. Many plants are propagated by division of the roots. * Ferns of the adiantuni class can be increased in this manner more etVectively than in any other. So can asparagns sprengerii, and all varieties of the begonia throwing np stalks in large numbers from the crown of the plant. Cut the roots apart with a sharp knife. Bulbous and tuberous plants, like the amaryllis and the calla, can be propagated by removing the young offshoots as they appear about the old plants, and potting them in soil similar to that in which the old plants are growing. CIIArTKK VI SUMMKK OAKK OF HOVSK PLANTS Vfky many persons are in the habit of putting their house ph\nts out of dooi'j> in sununer. Some of them turn them out of their pots and plant them in the open ground. Others " pluniie " Uunn — that is, tiiey sink the pot with the phint in it in the ground lip to its rim. These methods ot" suinnieriuir plants are resorted to beeause the owners think they "save trouble" by them. They are under the impression that plants so treated will "take eare of themselves," consei|ueutly they save a good deal of labor by resorting to thetn. In this they are mistaken. Plants that one expeets to make use of during the coming winter must be given attention all through the season if tine speeiiiiens are wanted, and the true tlower-lover will ui^t be satistied witli anything else. It is true that a plant turned out of its pot, and set in the open ground, will make a much stronger growth than it would it" kept in the pot, and that it will make this growth without any attention from it"^ owner. But, when fall eomes. and it be- 40 Summer Care of IDoikk iplnnts 41 comes necessary to lift aiul pot the plant for removal to the house, a large share of the roots will have to be cut off in order to reduce the amount of earth to tlie size of the pot to be used ; and when the young, working roots are thus removed it will be necessary to sacritice a pro[H>rtionate amount of the top. The process of lifting and re[)otting is a laborious one, and one that woukl seriously disturb the j^huit if no roots Avere cut away. Taking tliis into consideration it will reacHly be seen tliat a i)lant so treated must be greatly weakened at the very time when it needs its strength most, for the period of removal to the house is always a trying one to any ])lant, because of the great cliange in conditions which necessarily takes place. Notice a ^dant that has been sunnnered in the open ground, after it has been lifted and taken into the house in fall, and you will see that the loss of roots and branches and the lowered vital- ity resulting from the disturbance it has received have given you a most unpromising looking s})ecimen. The vigor of growth which characterized it while in the ground has disap[)eared. iSuch a plant will gen- erally require all winter to recuperate, and while this recuperative process is gxnng on you will get few, if any, tlowers from it. Therefore, you have gained nothing by putting it in the garden, except that while it was there it ''took care of itself." But vou 42 ^flowers have really lost a good deal, because the plant is worse off than it was in spring after having done a good winter's work. You will have to admit that the labor of lifting and repotting was quite sufficient to offset all the attention it would have required if it had been left in its pot. '' Plunged " plants generally suft'cr from lack of moisture at their roots. The soil about the pots seems moist, and from this one is likely to get the impression that the soil in them is in a similar con- dition. Examination will generally convince one that such is not the case. The pot prevents the soil in it from absorbing a sufficient amount of moisture from the soil about it, and unless one is careful to watch the plants, and water them frequently, they are almost certain to suft'er severel}^ from drouth. If you have noticed '' plunged " plants you must have observed that they never grow with the vigor and luxuriance of plants in the open ground. The chief factor in the dift'erence of development is the result of lack of sufficient moisture at the roots. To give them the water they need makes it about as much work to take care of them as they would require if kept in pots on the veranda, where they can be given shelter from strong sunshine and winds. I would, tliereforo, advise always keeping plants intended for next winter's use in pots during the en- Summer Care ot Ibousc iplants 43 tire season. I would give them a place on a par- tially shaded veranda, or under a shed with a slat roof. In either of these places you have them un- der control to a great extent. You can give all the water required to plants whose growth it is advisa- ble to encourage at this season. You can withhold water from those needing a resting spell, thus keep- ing them almost dormant, and you can temper the sunshine to the needs of each specimen. You can give the little attentions daily which they would most likely go without if put in the garden ; and the secret of successful plant-growing consists, in a great degree, in giving just these "little attentions" which are difficult to describe, but which the ob- servant plant-grower will soon learn if he goes to work lovingly and carefully, with a view to fully understanding the character and requirements of his plants. And it is quite as necessary that you should know your plants as thoroughly as you know your children. You will find peculiarities about each one of them, and these peculiarities cannot be ignored if you would be successful with them. Plants summered in this way very often do not need complete repotting in fall, simply the removal of the upper portion of the soil in the pot and the substitution of fresh, rich earth. The result will be that they will come to the season of removal to the 44 flowers house ill the best condition possible to stand the trying change. I do not like to hear persons talk about the " bother '' of plant-culture, or of letting plants '^ take care of themselves/' If one really loves plants — and the man or woman who would be thoroughly suc- cessful in the culture of them must be a lover of them — the labor of caring for them will be found a source of rest rather than weariness. If one does not love them, he should never attempt to grow them. Plant-growing by those who simply want plants because their neighbors have them is (piite likely to be a failure. You must care more for the plant itself tlian you do for the fads and fashions of lioriculture if you Avould acliieve success with it. Plants intended for winter use should never be allowed to bloom in summer. You must do all you can to induce the plant to store uj) energy for the coming season. If allowed to bloom now it Avill have exhausted itv^elf to a greater or less degree be- fore the period comes when you hope to get the greatest amount of pleasure from it. Do not give fertilizers to plants not making strong, active growth. The point to aim at in sunnner is rest, and to feed a plant on rich food encourages tlie reverse of rest. Hold back your fertilizer until the plant begins the work of the season. Summer Care ot 1bou6e BMants 45 As has been stated, the season of removal to the house is a most trying one to phints. Out of doors they have been accustomed to fresh air, moisture, and a not very high temperature. In the house they will find conditions changed greatly. The air will be dry, and there will be heat of an enervating character, because of the lack of moisture in it. So the windows should be left open, as much as is possible, if the weather is pleasant, and the plants should be showered every evening. Use no fire heat unless the weather is quite cold, and then just enough to keep a chill off the air. Keep up this treatment until your plants have accustomed them- selves to the change. By care in this respect you can get them used to the new conditions by such easy stages that when the cold season arrives and the rooms have to be closed they will not mind it much, especially if you are careful to keep up the daily shower-bath and the admission of fresh, pure air during the middle of the day. At this season insects breed rapidly because the conditions wdiich generally prevail in the house are extremely favorable to their production. It is well, therefore, to make sure that your plants are entirely free from them when they are brought in. If you find one aphis give the whole collection a thorough fumigation. In addition to this it is well to treat thorn lo a bath in an infusion of tir-tivo oil >oap. as iulvisod in tho chapter on insoet ononiios. Suoh prooautions are never useless. If ** eternal vidlanee is the priee of liberty/' it is no less true that it is also the price of freedom from insects anioui: the plants in the ^Yindo^v. When plants are not groNving much but little Avater Avill be needed. They are not in a condition to make use of much moisture then through the medium of their roots, 'rhereforc be careful not to give enough to cause souring of the soil, which trequently results at this season of the year, because evaporation goes on slowly. When the plant begins to grow it will be iu a condition to make use ot" larger quantities. Therefore study the conditions which exist and be governed by them. Many pei-sons make the serious mistake of giving their plants liberal application of a fertilizer at this season, thinking to force growth. This is all wrong. Xo plant needs a fertilizer while it is iu a dormant condition, it is not in sha]H^ to make use of it, and to ii'ive it is to injure the plant. Fcrtili/crs should only be given when a plant is making active growth. r>ear this in mind, tor it is a matter of great impor- tance. Many a plant has been killed by giving it rich tbodwheu its stomach was unable to digest it. CHAPTER VII OEUANTUIMS! TiiK goraniuiii has boon justly called '^ everybody's llower/' bocauso overvbody can grow it Avith very little trouble, and grow it well. It llourishes under circunistances unfavorable to the production of line specimens of most other plants. It is a ivrot'use and iilmost constant bloomer at nearly all seasons of the year. It conies in an almost endless list of desirable varieties, both double and single, and its colors range through many shades of red, scarlet, and crimson to pale rose, peach, salmon, and \n\vo white. The dark colors are of exceeding richness and brilliancy, and the lighter ones are very dainty and delicate. No other plant can brighten up the window like this one. A well-grown specimen ought to have at least half a (k>zcn trusses of bloom at a time during the Avintor, and the effect of half a dozen such plants in a Avin- dow of the ordinary size can readily be imagined after one has seen some of the tiner sorts at their best. Personally, I prefer the single varieties. Their iiowers have, to me, much more individuality than the double kinds, but the great decorative possi- 47 48 J-* lowers Inlitios of tho latter avo not to bo valued lightly. Their trusses hi^^t longer than those of the singU^ kinds, and are, as a general thing, more freely pro- duced. The trusses of some of the tinest douWe sorts resemble one large tlower more than a eoUeo- tion of small blossoms, so closely are the individual tlowoi-s set together. Thov are veritable balls of bloom. In order to have plenty of blossoms from the gera- nium during Nviuier. the pl:u\ts seleettnl for winter use should receive spcvnal treatment in summer. They should never be allowed to bloom. As soon as a bud is seen nip it otV. From time to time durmg the season pinch otY the ends of the branches. This will cause other branches to start along the main stalks of the plant, and by tall you ^v ill have a speci- men that is bushy and compact, with blossoming points all over it. Unless you pinch back your plants and oblige them to send out branches all along the stalks, you will quite likely have a tall, spr:\wly specimen with but two or three points from which to expect tlowers. 1 .eft t o tnxin itself, the geranium that grows in a pot is capable of making itself about the most awkwaixl and ungainly of all plants. l>nt insist on its growing into symmetrical shape by frequent and proper pruning and pinching and you will ttnd it verv tractable. ©cvanium^ 49 Training should begin wIumi the plant is small. Let it nnike a growth of tVnn- or livo iiu'hos. Then nip off the to[\ and kee[> on (.K>ing this nndl you have at hwst halt' a dozen branehes started near the base of the plant. These, it" nipped baek ^vhen live or six inehes hing, will also put forth branehes, and the result is, as 1 have already said, a bushy, eoni- pact speeimen quite unlike some of the phmts we se^ growing in some window-gardens. So imlike them, in faet, that they seem like distinet varieties, as regards their habit of growth. Plants whieh have grown and blossomed in the garden in sunnner are worthless for Avinter use. They must have a long period of rest betbre the}^ ean be expeeted to bloom well again. Sueh plants Avill be nearly all winter in reeovering from the effect of the season's work in the open ground, but plants treated as here advised and grown expressly for use in the house in winter will begin to bloom in No- vember, and continue to produce llowers throughout the entire season. There are so many fme varieties well adapted to general cultivation that it is a ditVicult task to say which are best. TUit I venture to nanu^ half a dozen each of the single and double kinds I most prefer, assuring any who adopt n\y selections that they will be pleased with them. 4 50 J'UnvcrsJ SINGLE SOKTS Athlete. — Brilliant soarlot ; tlowei's large and round ; trusst^s enornunis : a profuse bloomer. Maky Haii.ock. Footk. — Salmon, shading to bright rose at eentre, ^Yitll a -wide ^vhite edge to each petal ; a most lovely variety. CtKanvu.i.k. — The tinest pink sort; a very free bloomer ; color very soft and delicate. SorvENTK PE "MiKANDO. — A fancy sort : tloit^ts large and full : upper petals crcam-Avhite, edged 'svith rose : lower petals saluion-rose. ^vilh white markings. Violet Queen. — A most beautiful shading of rose and heliotrope; truss large, and individual tUnvei-s of good size and tine form. ^[AKGrEKTTK PK T.A/KKS. — Puvc "wlute ; thc plant is very lloriferous ; the tiowers are large, and never come stained with pink or green, as many of the so-called *• whites " do. nOU lU.K SOKTS S. A. XuTT. — Rich, dark crimson ; tiowers perfect in shape and size. Mapame DKnorcHE. — Briglit rose-color; large truss and tine tlower. >[akv lIii.L. — Deep pink, of a pure, rich tone; llowei's lariie ; verv free bloomer. (Beranlums 51 Colossus. — Flower of great size, often two and oiie-balf inches across; color a soft, bright rosy crimson. Marquise de Galard.— Rosy cerise, shading to orange; a striking sort; plant of compact habit; almost a perpetual bloomer. La Favor it a. — Pm-e white ; very fine. The foregoing sorts comprise the most distinct representatives of each class. But there are scores of other fine sorts from which to select, and all tastes can be suited. One of the most useful geraniums I have ever grown is Madame Salleroi. This sort never blooms, but it has small leaves produced in such profusion that a plant is one mass of foliage. The leaves are a pale green edged with pure white, and they have quite as ornamental effect as flowers. The plant grows in a rounded, compact form without any training whatever, and will be found extremely useful to fill in among larger plants. It is very fine for massing in mantel decoration. I grow dozens of plants of it, each year, in the greenhouse, and find it one of the most satisfactory of ornamental foliage plants. There should be a rose geranium in every col- lection, not only for its beauty, but because its leaves will be found indispensable in making up small 52 3Plo\vcrs5 bouquets and boutouuioros. Another tine, fragrant sort with beautiful foliage is the Dr. Livingston. Its leaves are almost as tlnely eut as those of some varieties of fern. The ivy-leaf varieties eomprise some very beau- tit'ul speeimens for window-use. ihie of the thiest is fc^ouvenir de Charles Turner, with large tlowers ot' a bright pink, the upper petals feathered with maroon. Another good sort is Jeanne d'Are. pure white. P. Orozy is a very tine variety, with tlowers ot" a rieh shade of scarlet. These varieties, beeause of their semi-elimbing habit, must be given support of some sort. They are very eharming when groAvn as bmeket-plants, and allowed to droop. Some persons labor under the impression that a geranium is worthless after the first year of its exist- enee. This is a mistake. It takes at least two years to fully develop. A year-old plant is merely a hint of what a two-year-old plant will be if properly grown. And its usefulness is not outlived at two years. Cut it baek sharply in spring and repot it, and keep it growing slowly during sunnner, not allowing it to bloom, and in fall you will have a plant quite as good, or better, than it was the previous year. Sueh a plant will prove to you what a geranium is eapable of doing in the window : but a young plant is only able to make promises for the future. KUniSIAS TiiK fuchsia, is owe of tlu' Ix^st suiuin(M--l>K>()mini!; j)lan(8 wo luive. It begins to blossom oarly in tlio season, and oontinues to lant to perfection unless one can give it tlie soil tliat suits it. In clay or heavy loam it will make a weak growth, and fail to flower well. It pays to take a good deal of trouble to get the plant the soil it needs. If grown well,' it makes one of the most attractive plants an amateur can have in his colle(;tion. A line collection of fuchsias is something to be proud of, and the owner of it is idwiiys sure of the satisfaction (A having it admired by all who see it. CHAPTER IX THE CHRYSANTHEMUM One of the most popular and beautiful flowers of the day is the chrysanthemum, and its popularity is well deserved. Any one can grow it. It blooms at a time when other flowers are past their prime, or have not yet begun the season's work. All these merits tend to make it a general favorite. I have said that it is of easy cultivation. This is true, when one understands the right treatment foT it. Being what may be called a one-season flower — by that I mean that it completes its growth and develops its crop of flowers in a period not extend- ing through much more than half the year — it must be treated in such a manner as to keep it making steady progress from start to finish. Unless this is done, the highest degree of success cannot be attained in its culture. It is easily propagated by cuttings, or by division of the roots. Old plants will throw up dozens of shoots about the base of the last-year stalks, and each one of these shoots can be cut away from the 60 tTbc Cbrseantbemum 61 old plant in such a manner as to leave a bit of root attached. Put these shoots in three-inch pots, early in the season, in a light, rich soil, and encourage them to make a good start by keej^ing them moist at the roots, and in a light, warm place. In a month or six weeks they will be found to have filled their pots with roots, and when this has been done, they should be given a shift to a pot two sizes larger. It is very important that this work should be done at the time when the necessity for it is apparent. If you allow the plant to remain in the pot until its roots get cramped for room, it receives a check from which it will not fully recover during the season. Therefore, if j^ou want to grow fine specimens, make it a rule to shift your plants whenever they need it. The second shift will be necessary in about two months after the first one is made, A third one will follow in due season, the precise time for it being determined by the condition of the roots, on exami- nation. Probably few amateurs will give more than three shifts in a season, but if perfection is aimed at, four will be needed, the last one coming about the middle of August, just before the buds begin to show. A nine or ten-inch pot will not be too large for a plant, if well developed. It is also very essential that a rich soil be used. This plant is a great eater. It can hardly have too 62 3Flower5 much or too rich food. A good compost for it is made up of garden loam and thoroughly rotted old cow manure, two parts of the former to one of the latter. The manure should be so okl as to be black and friable. In such a soil this plant will make a rank, strong growth, and delight you with its vigor and luxuriance, but in a poor soil it will make a slender growth and seem like quite another plant. If you are unable to obtain the rotten manure ad- vised, use bone meal, finely ground, mixing it thor- oughly with the loam in the proportion of a table- spoonful to a quart of the latter. Another item of great importance in the successful cultivation of this plant is water. It likes to drink as well as it likes to eat. In summer time it should be watered liberally every day, and in very hot weather it will be benefited by giving water twice a day. Be sure that every portion of the soil in the pot is reached by each application. If you allow it to get dry at the roots once during the season you are sure to give the plant a check quite similar to that resulting from cramped roots, and these checks must be avoided if you would grow }' our plants well. Make sure to prevent them by giving daily attention. Some persons put their plants in the ground dur- ing summer. If this is done they Avill make a stronger growth than can be expected from them tXbe Cbci^santbemum 63 when kept in pots, but when one comes to lift and pot them in fall much of this summer growth will be sacrificed necessaril}^ and the plant gets a check at the very time when development ought to be going on rapidly. Buds will begin to form about this time, and disturbance of the roots will seriously in- terfere with this process. Therefore 1 would advise keeping your plants in pots throughout the season, as it is much easier to keep them making steady progress when this is done. The chrj^santhemum is a most tractable plant, and can be grown as a tree, or in bush form. If you prefer the tree form, begin with the plant when young, and encourage it to make a straight growth to a height of about three feet. Allow but one stem to grow, and keep branches from forming. When the height desired is reached nip off the top. Branches will probably start all along the stalk, but all of these except five or six near its extremity should be re- moved. Allow those you leave to make a few inches of growth, and then pinch off the ends of them. This causes other branches to form at the head of the plant, and by persistent pinching you can force it to develop a thick, bushy top. Tie the main stalk to a stout stake, as the plant is easily broken if not well supported, especially when top-heav}^, as a specimen trained in true form is likely to be. 64 3flowet5 Personally, I prefer the bush form, because it seems to be more natural to the plant, and a speci- men grown in this shape is more graceful in every way. To secure a fine specimen but little pinching back or training of any sort will be necessary. Let branches form about the base of the plant, and allow as many to remain as you think necessary to furnish the amount of flowering surface you would like. You will get a good many more flowers from a plant trained in this form than from a tree-shaped plant. A great deal is said each season at the flower- shows and in the floriculture periodicals about dis- budding. By this is meant the removal of most of the buds which form. In order to get the immense flowers we see at the fall exhibitions it is necessary to allow but few buds to develop. But the result is a flower that is a monstrosity. It has outgrown the limit of beauty. I would never advise those who love flowers for their own sweet sakes to attempt to grow this kind of chrysanthemum. It is making a flower that was meant to be admired for its beauty into a floral freak. We look upon it as we would on any other curiosity, and wonder takes the place of admiration. Leave this branch of chrysanthemum culture to the florists who have an ambition to excel each other in any way that will attract the attention of the public and thereby advertise them and their ^be Cbrgeantbemum 65 business, and be content to grow your plants in such a manner as to have fine flowers of ordinary size and as many of them as possible. I am often asked to name the best varieties. I always refuse to attempt doing this, because it is an almost impossible task. There are so many fine sorts that it is difficult to say which the best ones really are. It is largely a question of personal taste. I w^ould select the kinds that suit me best, and, by so doing, overlook other kinds another person might prefer to those I had chosen. I would advise the amateur who desires to form a collection of really fine sorts to study the catalogues of the leading florists, and select therefrom varieties of the colors he likes best. In this way he will be likel}^ to suit himself, and if he fails to suit his neighbor whose tastes are unlike his, it does not matter. As a general thing the Chinese sorts will be found ,more satisfactory than the Japanese, because they have more regularity of form. But some of the fluffy, tasselly, utterly informal Japanese sorts are wonder- fully attractive, and all collections should include a few of them. OHArrKu X lU\;v''MAS Onr o! the mos^t popular of housie-plants is tho begonia. And its popularity is well deservevi. It is beautiful in tlower and foiiai>e. It grows well uuaoi oireurastances uufavon^ble to tho siAtisfaetory deveb opment of many plants, and doos not reipm^? more eaxe and attention than tho owuor of a window - garden can easily give it There are so many varieties in gevieral ouUivaiiou at the pi-esent tinje that no colUvtion of oixlinary site can include more than a very few of the most desirable sorts. One shonld have a greenhouse if one would ai\\>mn\odate the leading i-epresentatives of this most delightful family of plants. It is impossible to say which class is most popn- lar — tl\e tlowering or the ornamentableaveil sorts. All collections shonld have a few of each. The following varieties will be found among the best of the tloAvering stvtion : IxUBRA. — A luagniticent plant when well grown. Its fv^baire is beautiful, of a rich dark green, with Hiiiooili, flossy HUifiMM!. Its ll()\v(u-s, wITkiIi ivro \}V()- <1u('-(mI ill ^vc'.d profusion ilic your rouinl, jin; ji, hIiIii- in<^ (M)i-;iJ-r(!S Jf lowers leaved class — for oeaoral cultivatiou — the follinvinir deserve esptvial mention : Mktallu'a. — A strong-growing sort with leaves of bronze-green above, heavily veined and shaded below with dark red. A eharniiug variety to grow where the light can be seen through the foliage. Albia.— Olive-green foliage, with dark veins and silvery white marking's. Also a good bloomer, liav- ing Howei-s of white tinted witli lemon. Argentea GuLLArv.— a lovely sort ; foliage of olive shaded with bronze and red. tliiekly spotted with silver: a very strong, starkly grower, branch- ing freely, and beeoming a good-sized plant in a short time ; tlowei-s pale, pearly rose. Mariicaia Aukea. — Of drooping habit ; foliage very lai-ge, and thick and heavy in texture, of a rich green, heavily blotched, marbled, and spotted with white, cream, and delicate rose. Excellent for a jar- diniere. The rex begonias are always admired wlien seen in greenhouses, but they are not adapte^l to culture in the living-room. The temperatnre usually pre- vailing there is too dry and warm. The tuberous begonia is a charming summer flower, but must be allowed to rest in winter. Tubers should be potted in March and dried off in Novcml)er. Keep IIkjih in Untlr [)()tH, in a warm place, over wintcjr. No plant wiUi vvliich 1 ;un farnilijir is able to fmnisli a y\c\ntr hIiow ol" caAov than this, it conioH in all hIuuIch of red, erinjHon, KCiirhit, and roH(;, and ran<^(;H I'rofn dark maroon to ri(^li y(!llovv and punj \vhit(;. Souk; are douhh;, Hom<; Binghi — all beautiful. With gloxinias, fucihsiaH and tlKiso l)erovirittl(; and easily broken ; therefore tie th(;m to n(;at litth; stjdtcd to window culture. It is very easily givwn fivm cut- tings. The leading varieties are a dark violet blue, and a purplish lavender. (MfAI^TKIl XII TllK ^;ALLA, THK Af;AI'A\"l'II(;H, AND 'rifK r;i/)XI\IA I^^VKitvi'.oDY JiflrniroH ifio f;n,lla, wiOi iin \V(;jj,IUi of tropical lolia^^o and lin ^nmX trurrif><;t-Hliapcor an; hortif;, is f;ill<;'l. It is u, Hiatf;ly plant, and ona i\i:d adds isntnUy to the atinu;ti\'oric.s« of any r;oll(;r;tion. I>ut a gr<;at many f)OrHonB fail to Hucoood witfi it. Sornr; iicX pNinty of folia^j-o, f>ut no (lowfiPH. Oil)(;r,s fnil to do cvcw tfiis, I hav(5 found tfie cuItnrr;of this f)lant very ,sirij[>lo. I r)ovf;r f;iil to fsrow it well if I i/\\'<; it jj, soil corrj- y>OH(;d lar;.^(;ly of l<;!d'-tnold rnix<;d with nincky rrjattor from tho odgr?s of [>ondH. With tliis F mix Homo Hand. I provide' ;.^ood dviuniv/c for tlio pot, for, t}iou;^h the ealla \H ii(\Uid\(', in its nature, it does nr>t like stii^nant water ;i,t its roots. Keep tlie soil wet; })ut do this by Jijjplyinj^ water frr;fpi(;ritly, nither than })y e/)rifining it about the roots of the plant. 1 }jave Hoen it grown in water-tiglit stone jars, the owner }>elieving tluit it was imfiossihle to grow it in ;iny other way. An exnrnination of its roots, when grown under these conditions, ahnost always showed 76 76 3F lowers them to be diseased. ^Stagnant water is pretty sure to induce decay, and when this sets in tl\e pUmt will not tlourish. lUit where the soil is kept wet by repeated applications of water, there is no danger of this kind to be anticipated, as all surplus water runs off readily. 1 make it a point to have the drainage as perfect as possible. The result is, 1 have never liad an instance of souring of the soil, no matter how frequently, or in what quantities water was applied. A year-old plant cannot be expected to do much in the way of tlowering. It has not reached the right stage of development. A j^lant must be at least two yeai*s old before it will bloom much. In June I put my i^lants out of doors. I leave them in their pots. These }>ots 1 turn on their sides, under a tree, or in some corner, where they will be out of the way, and there 1 leave them until Sep- tember. They receive no attention whatever. As a consequence the old leaves fall otf, and wlicn the time comes to repot the plant you will not feel sure you have one to repot until you dig away the hard, dry soil and come upon the tuber. Avhich, notwith- standing the parched condition of the soil contain- ing it, will generally be found plump and sound. Put this in the soil recommended for it and water it moderately until young leaves appear. Then give Zbc dalla, Bgapantbus, mb ©loiinia 77 water freely. Soon a luxuriant growth will take plaee — one vastly more luxuriant and healthy than is ever seen from plants kept growing throughout the season. And later on the owner will be de- lighted with flowers of su(;h size and }>eauty as never reward tlie hopes of the person who grows the calla as he grows a geranium. There are two good reasons for growing this plant as I advise. One is, it must have a resting spell. If you refuse to give it this it will never be in a high condition of vigor. The other reason is, it is a treat- ment that imitates the condition under which the plant grows in its native habitat. We get it from JCgypt. There it grows along the Nile. In spring the lands bordering on the river are Hooded, and in the wot alluvial soil the calla makes its yearly growtli. When the water subsides, the hot season parches tlie soil about the plant, and for months it is apparently dead. But the return of the wet season again starts it into renewed growth. When the calla shows signs of flowering it is a good plan to give it a weekly application of some reliable fertilizer. If this is done, the plant will con- tinue to bloom throughout the season. Old strong plants, having three or four tubers with flowering crowns, will often have two or three blossoms at the same time. Such a plant is a " thing of beauty " 78 flowers which one would Hke to have " last forever." Do not remove all the offsets that start about the main . root, as these furnish small foliage, Avhich adds to the attractiveness of the plant. Several varieties of calla are advertised b}^ the florists. But there is only one really satisfactory kind, and that is calia a^thiopica, the old, well- known " lily of the Nile." The plant, however, is in no sense a lily. It belongs to the family of which our native arum, known by the children as " Jack- in-the-puli)it," is a well-known representative. The " little gem " calla, so widely advertised, might more appropriately have been called " little fraud," for it has humbugged a great many persons. It is a poor bloomer, and its flowers are inferior. C. hastata, advertised as the " yellow calla," is valuable onl}" as a novelty. The same can be said of the " black calla." Neither are worth the room they would oc- cupy in the window garden. The old variety is the only one worth growing. The agapanthus is a plant not often seen in the ordinary window garden. But it deserves a place there, and it would have it were its nierits more generally known. It is not a bulbous plant, although its foliage closely resembles that of the amaryllis. It has thick, fleshy, half-tuberous roots, which thrust their crowns above the soil and throw up from their tibe Calla, B^apantbus, anb ©loiinia 79 apex large quantities of foliage, and at the proper season, flower stalks three and four feet high, crowned with a great cluster of lavender-blue flowers. There are often as many as fifty, sixty, or seventy blossoms in each cluster. These are about two and a half inches in length, shaped like the Bermuda lily, and borne at the extremity of a stem starting from the common centre. Down the middle of each petal runs a lavender stripe, darker than the rest of the flower. The plant blooms in June of each year, as a general thing, and its flowers last for six weeks or two months. A large, fine specimen, with four or five flower stalks, is a magnificent ornament for the porch or the parlor. The plant succeeds in common loam. It likes a good deal of water while growing actively, and must have a good deal of pot room. If this is not given, it frequently cracks the stoutest pot by the enormous pressure of its strong roots. After it blooms and has completed its annual growth, reduce the supply of water, but never allow the plant to get dry. It is what is called an " evergreen " among plants of this class; that is, it always keeps growing more or less, and on this account it is not advisable to put it in the cellar in the winter, as this would give it some- what of a check at the time when it is getting ready to send up its annual crop of flowers. 80 jflovvera I have elsewhere spoken of the desirability of the gloxinia for summer use. It is rich in color, and its color range is wide. From darkest scarlet it runs the gamut of red to palest rose, and from royal pur- ple it shades off into lilac and mauve to purest white. Some varieties show a white throat, while the rest of the flower is of solid color. Other varieties are edged with pure white, while some are heavily spotted and freckled with contrasting colors. The flowers are tubular in shape, with a flare at the outer extremity. They are produced on short stems sent up from the centre of the mass of leaves which often completely cover the pot. A strong plant will often have six or eight flowers at a time. Such a speci- men is a most attractive ornament to the window — something of which the amateur florist may justly be proud. But not all amateurs succeed with this plant. On the contrary, the majority of them fail. But success wdth it is reasonably certain if the following direc- tions are carefully observed : For soil, use leaf-mold or turfy matter, with a gen- erous mixture of sand. Drain the pots well. If the soil is not drained, decay often sets in at the base of the bulb, and w^hen this happens its usefulness is at an end. Be sure to take such precautions as will i^revent it. XTbe Calla, Bgapantbue, anD ©loiinia 81 Kee^D the plants out of the hot sun. If you cannot give them early morning sunshine, do not give them any. Never allow water to fall upon the foliage. Like all other plants having a thick, hairy leaf, it is in- jured by moisture in condensed form. It likes a moist atmosphere, but the moisture must be in the atmosphere and not on the plant. The gloxinia blooms well along into fall. Then it begins to yield few flowers, and these will be in- ferior in size. Soon the foliage takes on a rusty look and turns yellow. In this way it gives you to understand that it is getting tired of its long, hard work throughout the season, and wants to rest. Gradually lessen the supply of water. When the leaves have ripened and fallen of! allow the soil in the pots to become dry. Put them away in a w^arm, dry place to remain during winter, and leave them there until spring. Then bring them out, shake the tubers out of the old soil, repot them, and start them into growth again. ciiArrKK xiir SALVIA. .1ASM1NK. ANP 01 KANPKK TiiK soarlot salvia— S. splendent — is an oxooUont plant tor the window g^uxiou if one is careful to keep the rod spider from it. Unless this is done it is soon spoiled. It should have a rielu loamy soil. It likes eonsidemblo water while growing. A weekly applioation of some good fertilizer is of givat benetit after it begins to bloom. It sends up great spikes of peculiarly-shaped tlowei^ of the richest scarlet. It is as intense in color as the lobelia, or cardinal tlower found growing along our western rivei'S. It^ foliage is a rich green, and the contrast of leaf and llower is tine and strong. It blooms with great frct^ dom throughout the entire winter. In spring make cutting's of the smaller branohes to furnish plants for the decoration of the out-door garden next sum- mer. They i\>ot ivadily in sand. Cutting the plant l>aek tn>ni time to time makes it bkx^m moix^ pro- fusely, as this tivatment leads to the production of branches, and each branch is terminatevl with a spike of tlowers as a general thing. It is hard to find a more brilliant and showy plant for the deoora- 82 Salvia, ^aemine, an& ©Ican^cr 8-5 tioii of tho winter vviiulo\v-;^ar(l(!ii, or tin; ji;rocii- liousc. Ho very sun; to showed- il all ovcsrdaily, tak- ing es[)eciiil jKiiiis to got tho wat(!r whoro it will do the most good — on tli(i under side of tlui leaves. There are four varietii^s of jasmine Huital)le for culture in the window ; JasmiM'] lii'A'oi.uTr.M, cliinhing in lial)it, with golden-y callow llowoi-s. Jasmixi-: (UiAN'Dii'M.ouiiM. also a ernnher, with i)uro white llowers. Jasmink AUi{AN'ri('u>T, of shruhby hahit, with yel- low flowers. Jasmtxio PAKiiim, th(5 i)()|)ular '^ night-hlooming jasmine," with greenish-yellow llowers. 'i'his sort is not particularly fine as to color, hut it gives off a very rich and powerful odor at night, when its llow- ers o[)on, and on tliis account it is a general favorite. This, and tho proce:ling varicsty mentioned, makes a fine, bushy specimen of four or five feet in height. The two sorts first named must Ix; grown in large pots. They are not what might he called rampant growers, but will easily reach to the top of a win- dow. They are of most delicious fragrance. One or two blossoms emit an odor sufTiciently strong to fill a room. A large number of them give an over- powering odor. St jfUnvcri^ To givw tlu\a;?o^ water nKHierately. Out them l^i\ok well at\er eaeh (lowering peri oil. If they bloom in summer keep them in the eellar over winter. The oUwnder i$ everybody's favorite. A lai-go plant of it. grvnvn in synunetrieal form, is a lovely sight when ^x^veiwl witli its wealth of i\^e-eolorevl tlowers. Kaeh tlower is almost a suWtitute for a rv^se w hen semi at a little distanee. Tliis plant likes a sivndy soil. It also likes a great deal of water when making its strongest givwth, whieh is generally in spring auvl the early part of summer. You em\ hanily give too mueh. It has enormous quantities of very tine nx^ts^ and these enable it to drink up water friMu the soil with givat rapidity. If you begin right with a young plant you ean make it assume a symiuetrieal shape with very lit- tle ti\>uble. Let it grow to a height of about thi\x^ feet, then nip off the top, GeneriUy thiw brxnehes? ^Yill start ne^xr the extremity of the stalk. Allow these to grow until they are six or eight inehes long. Then nip of! the ends of them. Rr^nehes will start frv>m their extremities. In this way you form the fout\dation for a head of govnl sha^^v. and you will have all the bn\nehes neoess;\ry to give you a thiok, Salvia, ^aemine, anD OlcanOcc 85 compact phuit jiflcr tin; tliini or lonrth piricliin^. Aft(;r Hk; [Aiuii f>c;^inH to hlootn it will not bo ncccH- KJiry to do rrnH;h pruning, an }>nitiolHjH will Ht;irt Ix;- lovv <;;i(;li ciiiHtor of (lovvnrH, t})(5 HMJik; JiH if tlm f;riH liad \)iHi\\ Mip[)0(l ofT. In t';ill lr;t tlio Hoil dry out conHid(;r!i})ly, niid in Nov(;rn)>(;r put the f)lant into the collar, to romaiu ovor vvintor. ciiArrKU \iv As? a gt^neKd thin^, the amtxtour tlorkt will find tlio rv>$e one of the wos^^t ditlioult of tUl flowers to onUiviXte :^5UOoe^i«fu^y in the house* If theruts> it will be sure to take up its abode on tins plant And thesse enemies uule^rsii fought most pei^istently and thotvHighly, will soon n>b the plant of its vitiUity, The only Wi\y to get the advantage of them is to take the plant in hand while young and small, and give it sueh eare as will prevent t!\e pests from get- ting any foothold on it. In this \\*ay you can make them unders^tand tliat no eompromise will be made with them, and after a time they will get diseonr- ageil and witiidraw their forees. But you n\ust W watehfuh and aet every day as if you expeeteil the attaek of the spider and the aphis to-morn>w. It is a gxxnl plan alw^iys for the grower of flowers to aet on the offensive n\U\er than the defensive. Don't wait for inseets to )>ut in an ap^H^aranee, ^lake it so une^nnfortable for them that they will not eare to att^npt to esitablisli Uiemselves imioug your Klo6C0t Carnations, anO 1b\2&ranflea 87 (>l;iiiiH. \\(".[V ill iniiMl (,li;il, il in ;i, ifvcAii (leu] (^ah'm'S to k('(!|) Micin ;i,vvit,y lJi;ui it is to ii'cl rid of IIkjiii nJlcr tli(;y lia.V(; oikm; tiik(;ii |)()SS<;Hsi<>ii of your pliuii. To li(!5ul o(T I/Ik; red H)»id<;r fVorii your roH(;,s, dip Dw, |)l;iiil,s d;iily in w;i,l(;r, jillowiii;.'; iJicrii io i'(;rii;i,iji Kuh- ni(!rol,li piirposfjs if piveii re|:^ul;irly. If you .luex-.eed in kcMjpin^ your [>la,ntH hcAi from l,li(;se en(!rr)i<;H ih(.'re Ih ho rcAiHon wliy you should not ha.v*; roses in winle'r, provided your plaiils })a,v(! be(!n prop(;rly ircjairid during the Hummer, a.nd the a,ir of th(; room in whieh you k(M!p th(im in not too fioi and dry. Got year-old ])hiiitH in Hjirlng, and put tliern in five or hix-ineli [)ots. Use a, soil rrjad(; up largely of elay or (;lay(;y loa,m. It must h(; hea,vy enougfj to paek about the roots firmly. A rose will not (Jo w(.'ll in a i)ot of light, op(;n, spongy soil. It insists on a soil that retains moistur(; \v(;ll, and ne*ver allows the [)huit to get loos(;. In ):)otting, B(;e that this soil is made firm and comf)aet a}>out the plant. Water rnod(!ra,tely. As soon as n(;w growth begins, eut away most of the to[) tlie [)la.nt had wlien n^eeived. By and by eut })aek this n(;w growtli. • On no ae.eount a,llow the plant to bloom. In fall you will have, if this treatuKait }jas been k(;pt up sb^adily all sumnjcr, SS JPlowcr^ a plant with a number of stubs instead of branches but these stubs will be well set with plump-looking buds, which are only waiting to be allowed to de- velop into stout, heaUliy branches, eaeli one of wliich will generally bear from two to half a dozen tiowers. If the old pot is tilled with roots, repot the plant m October. A seven-inch pot will be quite large enough for a two-year-old rose. Begin the preventive treatment T have advised as soon as your plant is brought into the house. While out of doors, in sunnner, such treatment may not be necessary. Aim to keep the temperature as near 05° as possible by day and UV"" lower at night. Such a temperature, I am well aware, cannot be secured in the ordinary living-room. It is therefore advisable to keep your roses in some room opening oif the room in which a tire is kept. Let them have all the fresh air and sunshine possible. In January they ought to begin to bloom. Cut away each tlower as soon as it begins to fade. When all the tlowers on a branch liave developed, cut the branch back, at once, to some strong bud. Keep the soil rich. This will stimulate constant development, and as long as the plant produces branches it Avill continue to bloom. The following sorts are most satisfactory for house culture : IRoses, Carnations, anO Ib^Orangca 89 Agrippina. — Dark crimson ; very fine. Queen's Scarlet. — An iini)rovo(l agrippina; tlio flower is larger; the color is tli(; same. Hermosa. — One of tlie most constant varieties; very lloriferous ; color, bright rose ; very fine. Etoile I)e Lyon. — Creamy yellow; heaiitiful. Clotiiilde Soui'ert. — A polyantiia rose; a won- derful bloomer; {lowers small, but borne in large clusters; color, soft pink, passing to pearly white at the edge of the petal ; very fragrant. Sunset. — Fawn color, shaded with g(jlden and cop- per tints ; a most lovely rose. There are other varieties equal, or superior, to these in beauty, but none that adapt themselves more readily to the conditions which generally j)revail in the living-room. The carnation, the "divine flower," is one of the rose's most formidable rivals. It is not only beauti- ful in form and color, but it is so deliciously fragrant that its spicy sweetness is a source of constant delight of which we never tire. Like the rose, it is somewhat difficult to grow well in the house, but this can be done by the lover of flowers, for such a person will be willing to take par- ticular pains to suit its requirements. The red spider and the aphis like to live upon its juices, therefore 90 jflowcrt* tho tivataioni advisod for the roso should bo followed ill its* cultivation. It likoj* u soil of K^iuu with hut littlo sand in it It does not tvquiiv a lai>»v pot for tho ti^'st six or eight months of its ^rmvth. Thou one of sovou inches >vill bo lai^ge cnoiiiih to accouiuiodaio a well developed plant. C^nly a moderate amount of w\ater will be rei\uired. I would advise keeping plants intendeil for winter use in pots during the suunner. If a tendency is shown to thixnv up tlower-stalks. cut thorn ol^ pi\^mptl\\ Make the plant bushy and compact by causiui:: it to send out a mass of shix^ts ue«\r its crown. This it will do if you steadily ivfusc to let it bh^ssom. Keep it in a cool ixnnn, if possible. It will do better in a tempenituiv of oo*^ or (U>^ than in a higher one. The ioUowing varieties are all good, and ooiuprise the most distinguislunl sorts: Mus. lUo. M. l^KAor. — A "fancy* variety; cvUor, white, stripiHl with scarlet : of good size, auvl a free bloomer. M.v.iOK TiNOKKK. — l.enion yolivnv. n\arked with pink and white: of strong habit : very tloriferous. Fi.OKA UiLL. — Pmv white; a very superior sort. Moukua>. — Briiiht scarlet. 1RO0C0, Cnrnatloiii?, aii^ lby?&ranflca 01 TlDAIi W'avi;. a lo\cIy llowcf, of ;i, soil, dclicnlc; pink ; one of ilic IVccsi Idooincrs of llic list. Toiri'iA. -/\ii ol(| l';i,voril,(; ; color ;i, iiiori iniciisc 8(;arl(!i; (^xcdllcnt. AltMAZIiNDA.— I'lir*; wliiic, |)(:lic,il(;(| will) H<'!i|-|(;i; cx(juisii<;!y rrM,ss, eonij)l<'iely eover'arin<.dy. In No- veirdxjr, put it into the eftlkir, ^ivin^'; it only (^nou^di wat(;r to k(;(!p it from shedding its foliiii^e. In V<'.}>- ruary, hring it to the ligtit. Ju a .short time it will 92 flowcw Ijk>^iu to jinnw Soon itj^ Inuis will appoar, and by Mnv u will lviih> tv^ bUnnxK U ^luniUl bo out baok 10 $Yu\n\olrioal j^hapc wUou gwnvih i?^ boii\^^ uuuio» Af tiH^ that no pmuii\5? ?^iouUi Ik> ilono. as^ it will htwo foruunl Inuls fi>v noxt ^[>vii\5iV work, and to out away it^ biuuol\oji at tlu^ tiu>o would sor\ou?!^ly iutoHoi\> with tlK> di>vdo\>uHn\t of tho j>UuU oarly in tbo $eiV;?ou, Ko iu^ivi ovor n\niblo^ tb\^ l>laut. and ou thi^ ac- count it i^ a (a\ oriio with all lovox^ ot' tlowo^"^ Ono doi>$ not have to ti|?ht for suoi\^ w itii it> a;s in the ca$c of the rvTKje and oarnatiou. (llIAI'TKIt XV 'I'lll'; I'lUMIlOSK, 'I'lIK l'lt,l.\llll-A, AND l'l>l I M I'. A<;< ) OnI'] of IJi(5 iriosl SiiJ/isl'nctory ol" :ill Ikmisc J)I;uiIh ia iho (;iiiii(;s(^ primrose. 11 r(;<|uir(;H only iiii onliiiiiry jiinonnl of ciiic. II is :i, very I'hm! jukI coiiHlniii |,|,„,,,,,:r, :ui1'>'' '<' r:i,n».';(;H from |)in- HcrviMl in lJi«MMil(in-y tin; Hoil. 'I'liis in(lnc(!H (l(M'-ay, :iihI ji, plniit is s<;l'lom ahlo to r(;('np(!r;it(; after this sets in. 'riienjfon!, Hot i\ni phint rather hi^li in itn pot. I hue the Hoil Mround it slop(; towanJH th(5 cAfiy, of the pot, so th;it wntcr, wIkui ii,|)plie(| In (|ii;nitity, will rnn n,w;iy from tin; crown, instead of (;oll<;(;tin^ Jthoui it. Anoth(!r it(;rn of groat irrij)ortanr;(! in this: N(;v<;r pnt yoiniL^ plants in largo [hAh. Six-rriontljH-old H it blooming-. In order to facilitate the production ot' these branches, without which you will have no tlowers. as they are borne only on new growth, keep the soil well fertilized. The blossoms are shaped like those of the annual phlox, and are of about the same size. They are borne in loose spikes. In color they are a delicate lavender blue — a rare color among tlowers. The plant often grows to be six or eight feet high, with many side branches. Being of rather slender habit, it may need support of some kind. A large specimen in full bloom is extremely beautitul, especially if grown alongside white or rose-colored tlowers. It is very hard to make grow from cuttings. A surer way to propagate it is by layering. Bend down a half-ripened branch, half-breaking it at the point where you put it into the soil. Fasten it tirmly in place with sticks. Teave it until you are sure roots have formed. Then cut away its connection AA*ith the parent plant, and pot it. being careful not to break the delicate roots. CHAPTER XVI THE AMARYLLIS, IMANTOl'IIYLLUM, AND VALLOTTA TuE amaryllis is ii superb flower, but because the nature of the plant is not understood most amateurs generally fail with it. Learn to know the 2)lant and its requirements, and you need not fear to undertake the culture of it. It has alternate periods of growth and rest. These should each be made as complete as possible. That is, when growth is going on, encourage the plant to full and free development. When this is comj)leted, treat the plant in such a manner that rest will be as complete as growth was. As a general thing it is kept growing all tlie time, in a sort of indifferent, utterly unsatisfactory way, because water is applied regularly. This is where the mistake is made. As long as foliage is produced the water-supply should be kept up. When it ceases to send up leaves, cut off this supply and give just enough to prevent the soil from getting dry. Keep up this treatment until the plant shows signs of renewal of growth. Generally the first indication of this will be the sending up of a flower stalk, after which 7 97 leaves? Avill bo proiluood. At this tiuio apply fertilizei-s i*egularly, and do all you can to luako the work of the plant suooetNsful in the liighest domoo. Future sueeess depends to a great extent u[>ou the care tl\e plant aetsJ at this stag-e of its exist euee. If negUvtinl it probably will fail to give you tUnvei-s at its next period of growth. If well ftxl and watored. it will store up in the bulb the strength and energy which ^Yill be manifested in tlowei-s later on. The plant under onlinary ti^eatnient is not eneoun\ged to givw well \Yhen it tries to groAv. and it is not alloweil to rest when it wants io do so, and the result is, in nine cases out of ten, a non-tio\Yering plant. Treat it as I have adviseYill gi\>w it to perteetion. Set the bulb about half its depth in the soil. Allow two or three bulbs to form about the old one. Attcr that remove the otVsets promptly. Never disturb the amaryllis unless absolutely nev^essary to do so. Any interferei\ee with its r^xns is resei\ted. and it will usually refuse to bloom for son\e months after tliis takes place. If necessary to repot it, do so very carefully, removing only as mnch of the old soil as will iivelv crumble awav from Bmar^llis, irmantopb^^Uum, anO IDallotta 99 al)()iii the roots ol" tli(; phiut. S(;t tli(j )>ulhs in their new pot, and siR in tli(3 i're.sh soil ahout thcnj, Hcttling it hy the iihcral ap])lication of water, rather than by ])r(3ssin;j; it down with the hand. Never ])ut tlie iunaryliiH in tiie eellar. It in likely to he too eold and dam J) thenj. Tiiere an.' Htivardi varicjties, all good. The Htandard Bort is Johnsonii, scarlet stri]>ed with greenish white. Equestre, rosy eriinsoii, is another very line variety. A stnjiig hulh should send up a stalk nearly three feet high, and h(iar from three to six liowers. Such a ])lant, when in Idoom, is a most lieautifal oljjeet, and one of whieh any oiKi may well he proud. I'he iinanto])hyUuni is a plant not often seen out- side the gn^enhouse, hut it deserves a place in the window gard(Mi, Ijecause it will llourish there much ])etter than many plants c(jnsi(hired a[)propriate for the place. It is not a hulhous plant, hut its leaves and flowers are so similar to those of njany Ijulhous ])lants that one is only convinced of the nature of it hy examination. Dig down into the soil a1)0ut it and you will find tliat it has a thick, fleshy root, quite similar to that of the agapanthus. It is propagated ])y division of these roots. It should have precisely the same treatment as that advised for the agapan- thus. Its flowers are produced on stalks ahout a foot in height. There are generally from six to a dozen in a olu^toi\ Ii\ i»lor ihoy art> an orauge-reil. with a light stripe livnvn the ot>utre of the petal. Tliov aiv shapoil Hko Ji lily, Tho ValK>tta> or 8oarl>oi\>ugh lily, is ono of the old favorite.^ of whioh \yo cannot atTonl to Kvso sisrht. It ij5 a tall Moouior. It soUioiu fails to Moon\ in August and 8epteuiher» Kjioh stmug hulh sends up a stalk about a foot high, tonuinatiMl with live or six lily-shape^l tlowers of a rich, glowing scarlet. In intensity of i\>lor, they suri>j\^ any other bulbous tlowcr we have except the tulip. Young bulbs an^ fonueii in giwu quantities about the old ones> and the^e must be removed eAch sejxson, if you do not A\*;\nt the strtmgth of the plant to be expendinl in this dirov^tion. Oo not repot the old bulbs otten, as, like Uie aniaryllis, they recent any disturl>j\nee of their roots. In winter, the |X>t or box in which they gnnv can be kept in the cellar. Fertilise well during the summer, to gx>t them ready for fjill tlowering. CIIAPTICI:, XVII I)K(J()RA'l IViO I'LAN'l'H No (',<)II(!(;t,i()ii in ('A)]\r.'\<\(trc(\ coiMpIctf;, nowJuhivH, linlnMM it liiiH in il soinc phiiils ^I'owii Ix-chmhc, of iJicir IxjiLuliful rolin;j!(;. 'rii(;KO phuilH not only add U) lJi(! !i,itnu;iiv(! cCfcrl, of Uic, (;oll(;(;tion, \v}i<;n used in il, l>tiL iJicy ;i,r(! very useful for ilic rlceoi-jition of th(j liiill or parlor, and small spceitncns c/dw Ix; used to ii(lvantji<^(! on tli(; (]inn<;r-ta,l)l«!. Su^li plants liavo another adva.nta,^.':*; over those whieJi a,n; ^rovvri <;hi(!lly for their (lowers, heeause they are " in eoin- ])ai)y dress" at all times. 'I'Ih; lieus, or I ndia,-ruhher |)la,nt, is a genera,! favorite heeauso of its lar^e, thieic, ^loHsy folia|.^(;. \Vla,nt. (jiive it a soil of loam. Mov(; to rie-w fpjart(;rs from time to timo, a,s th(; old [)ots heeome filleo not try to foree ;j;rowth hy ujakin^*; tluj soil vr;ry rieh, hut 101 102 Jplowers give a weak fertilizer about once a fortnight to keep the plant in vigorous condition. Wash the leaves off weekly ; keep in a partially shaded place. Palms are becoming popular, but there are really but few varieties adapted to home culture. The best of these are : Latania Borboniga, the well-known fan-palm, with broad foliage ; of low, spreading habit. Phcenix Reclinata. — Of freer growth than latania borbonica, therefore more desirable. This sort has long leaves, which spread and curve gracefully. One can grow a fine specimen in two years. Areca Lutescens. — A graceful variety, of upright habit ; not as strong a grower as phoenix reclinata, but really more suitable for the window on this account. Chamerops Humulis. — A low-growing, sturdy sort, of great vigor and lasting qualities ; one of the best for a jardiniere or low stand ; leaves fan-shaped and deeply cleft, and produced in great freedom. To grow the palm well, it should be given a deep pot, as it delights in sending its roots down rather than spreading out to a great extent, as many plants will do if allowed. Give it a soil of loam. Never use leaf-mold or any other light, spongy soil. Have good drainage. Water well, but never keep the Becotatlvc KMants 103 soil wet. Keep in a partially-shaded place. Shower the foliage daily. Wash with some insecticide once a month to prevent insects and scale from troublmg them. When a plant is used for the decoration of the hall or parlor, do not allow it to remain there for days, but take it back to the light as soon as the occasion that called for its use is over. No plant can be expected to flourish away from the light, and to deprive it of this for any length of time is sure to in- jure it. Do not attempt to grow the palm from seed. That takes too long. Buy young plants which have a good start, and thus gain a year or two of time. Drocenas are very ornamental plants when well grown. The best varieties for the amateur are : Individisa. — Dark green, with long, curving foliage. Terminalis. — Broad foliage, shaded with bronze and maroon. These plants like a soil of leaf-mold and loam. They must be kept quite moist at the roots, and in a warm atmosphere. Terminalis must have a very light place in which to grow, in order to bring out the beauty of its coloring. Aspidistra is, among decorative plants, what the geranium is among flow^ering plants. It will grow and do well under conditions that w^ould be sure death to many other plants. Give it all the water it 104 3flower6 wants and it will get along without any other atten- tion. It flourishes in sunshine and in shade. It does not mind dust, or dry air, and it can stand a good deal of cold. I have seen old plants that had not been repotted for years that were in fine condi- tion. But because of its ability to get along under disadvantages it should not be neglected. Give it good care and it will do so much better that you will consider your labor well paid for. It does well in a loamy soil. Its leaves are borne on stems sent up from the crown, not on branches. They are shaped like those of the lily of the valley, but are several times larger. They are thick and leathery in texture, and of a dark green color. Aspidistra variegata has stripes of creamy white, of irregular widths, running the length of the leaf. This is the best variety, and is very ornamental. Propagated easily by division of the roots. Ferns are not adapted to living-room culture, with the exception of nephrolepsis exaltata, or sword fern. This sort does well where begonias can be grown successfully. It is a very beautiful plant. It sends up dozens of long, gracefully arching fronds from strong crowns. A fine specimen is a veritable fountain of foliage. It is a good bracket plant, and for the centre of a pyramidal group it is one of the best plants we can grow. The smaller specimens are 5)ccorati\?e planta 105 excellent for table use. Grow it in leaf mold or turfy matter ; water liberally ; keep it in shade. One of the very finest plants of recent introduc- tion, for general decorative purposes, is asparagus sprengeri. This variety of asparagus is quite unlike asparagus plumosus or asparagus tenuissimus. It throAvs up large numbers of strong branches whicli grow to a length of three, four or five feet, drooping with utmost grace, and completely covering the pot in which it grows with a spring-like mass of dark- green foliage. For mantel decoration we have no plant quite equal to this. It should never be trained to grow up. That is not the natural direction for it. Let it spread out its branches and train itself, and you will find it always a " thing of beauty." Give it a soil of loam and sand, well fertihzed. Use a good deal of water while it is making rapid growth, and give it good-sized pots. It is easily propagated by division of its roots, which are half tuberous in character. I cannot too strongly recom- mend this plant to the attention of the amateur florist. Its requirements are so simple that they are easily complied with, and success is certain to follow the carrying out of the instructions given for its culture. It is excellent for cutting as it lasts well. It is destined to become one of our most popular and useful plants, and will take the place of smilax and tho vUhor variotios of a^viramis. uhioh aro not vory uoll adapted to gononil uso. It is ono of thoso ao«.vu\n\odating plants wlnoh can bo grown in sunsiihino or shado. and doesn't oxpoot, or want, to bo cvaxtxl. It is oxoollont tor hanging Uijsketj?, for iiso on bn\okot^, or as an edging for tho plant-tablo, which it ohanuingly drapos with its profnsioiv of tringv foliai^ro. CHAPTF.Il XVIII VINI'^S K(>1{. Till': WlNhOW (; AIM) ION rioiiHAi'S the best \\\\v in v;vi)\\ in Hh' window j^ardiMi, :ill IhingM (H)nHi(l(M>'(l, is (lie l<]n,<;lisli ivy. It, sl.a.ii(lM dry nir and dust a,iid liiL-h loiupdniiiiro and rnH|iunit and ^^vcid clKUiiACH of (cnipcraiurc as well as Mio aspidistra.. Ktu'j) it U'vc h-oin scale and im>a,ly-l)iv<;- by occasional washini^s with an infusion of lir-troc oil soap, a.nd i(s rich, dark ,i;rc(ai I'olia^^o will dolii;-ht you and lorni a, cliarniinii; IVainc for iho window at whicii it ,<;rows. (!ivc it a, soil of ordinary <;a.rdcn loani. Do not Uccp its roots wet -simply moist,. If possibles give tlu^ pot a place near the lii^dit, to do a,way witli tlu^ danger of souring of tlu^ soil, which sometiines takes place when the pot is kept too nuich in siia,d(V Ihit the pkiid- itself does not re(iuire siinshiiK^. It does not seem to care much for a strong light, even, as it sends out its branches near the eialing, a,nd th(\v api)i'ar to he as healthy as those growing nearer the ghiss. iM-cause of its a,bility and willingness to llourish in shadier phices than other pla,nts can or will, it des(>rv«>s espcM'ial atten- tion, as it can be used by those who have windows 107 108 3flovver0 not at all adapted to the cultivation of light-loving plants. Be sure to keep its foliage clean. It is never pleasing when covered with dust, and it is sure to be injured by such an accumulation, as it closes the pores through which the plant breathes. I would traiu it along the Avindow-frame and walls on little hooks rather than by fastening it an3"where. If this is done, it is an easy matter to remove the vines for washing, and the chances are that the plant will not be neglected as it quite likely would be if it were so fastened to frame or wall that it was difficult of re- moval. The Modena vine is a rapid grower and its foliage is thick and glossy. It is also a good flowering plant. It blooms in September, bearing a great pro- fusion of small white flowers, of very pleasing fra- grance. It is grown from tubers, which should be planted in spring, in pots of rich sandy soil. It re- quires a good deal of water. It does best in partially shaded windows. In fall, when the vine begins to turn yellow, cut it off and set the pots containing the roots in a cool, dry cellar, where they should be left until spring. Cobea scandens is a very strong-growing vine. It will soon outgrow a window of ordinary size unless cut back sharply from time to time. This makes it IDines tor tbe Window OarDen 109 branch finely and keeps it within bounds. It bears a large, bell-shaped purple flower. Cobea variegata has foliage beautifully marked with cream-white and yellow, and is a most attractive plant. No si)ecial treatment is required. The hoy a, or wax plant, is a satisfactory vine for a warm window. It has leaves of very tliick texture and its flowers are l)orne in drooping clusters. They are of a pearly flesli color, with a dark, star-shaped growth in the centre, which gives them a peculiarly striking appearance. If you would succeed with this plant disturb its roots as little as ])ossible. Keep it warm in winter and rather dry, unless it should be making growth. In its growing season it needs con- siderable water. Never remove the little stem on which flowers w^ere produced, as next season new flowers will appear there. Keep the ])lant free from mealy-bug, which is the only enemy it has so far as I know. It has small roots and will not require a large pot until two or three years old. CH.vrrKK \i\ TV> luauy of tUo dwollor^ in tht> oity tho window* box Is tho oixlv {\\Ailublt> sjuWtituto for j\ tlower ji^wxleu. Auvi uKvixY w)\o aiv i\ol oity ri^suiowis iuv ghul to bruxg tho Iwuity twul fmgmu^v o( the ^iiurvioii iuU> A HttK^ oJo!^i>r touch with their daily r\>\iud of dutio«5^ >rAny ti tuxnl wouu\u' who i\>uhl \xot tuul tiuH\ or wouKi ho t^H^ woiuy. to visit tho ^caniou. is r^>f»\^hod and ohoonni hy lii\g\>Tiu5Jt for a uunuoiii ovov t\ tlowor in tho window, Tho pvH>r of tho oUiojjs^ whvv^o Uvi^ jviv ^^ kvnvu of K^uity and hvi^iihtno^ 04\u $S5\iu a UitK^ hint of what sun\n\or hoUls for nxoro fv>rtnnnto piH>|>U> fi\>ni tho wiudow-hox ji^u\Un\> wluoh oan ho <\>nstruott\i 5*0 cheaply thiU jvU oan .vtYorti it. Thoivtoro tho jirowinj? of tlowor^ in Ih^xos out^s^ide tho window 5*honld Iv oni\nin\$i\\l ovorvwhoiw not only {\n\onii tho \\\\vlthy> hut 0!*|Hvi{dly an\on,si^ tho |HHm^r ohxv^osi^ to whivin tho ^luxury of a rx>id tU^wor g:\t\lon !.>« ;x thinjj not to W drt^xnuxl of a$ sunong the po?*j^ihihtit\^ When wo |dan tho window-Wx we oan ^see in the inind> oyo j\ wi\\hh of hKvni and honuty tlxat tho fiuniv h;xs \n stoiv Kut this nntioi^v-ittHi K\uity 110 in in iri;uiy iiinLiiKMiM - in llic in;ij\V<;iM ;iI, luir wnkIovv in noirly (lii;;i,|>- j)()inl,(!(l, jumI WMii(ll;i,nl,M <;v<'»y (l;iy. Wliii.l ni<>»'(! <;(>ul() I do? \Ui\, in l of (Jiein W(;r(! de;i,d. \V;i;-i tin; liiull niin<;? 11" mo, wliiit w:i,H wron^-; in my trentnuint ?" In nine ciiHeM oui oi' len fjiilure reMullH Ironi l:iek of HilHutient inoiHiure in Mm; Moil. It niUMt he home in mind tli;i,t u, hox :i, loot or more wid*;, ten or tw(!lv(; ineh(!H in depth, iind three or foui' feet lonjj;, (!onl;iinM (juite .'I, l;i,r;';e ;i,irionnt of Moil,;i,nd to keep thiH moist it will he neeeHs;i,ry to Mpply w;dcr in lilxinil (|ii;i,ntitieM in Humm<;r. TliiM monl j)erKonH I'jiil to do. 'rh(;y ;i,j)ply <;nonj_^li to wet tin; Hin'hi.ee of the Moil oidy, ;i,nd the Moil h(;ne;il,h Hoon h(!ots of the plants. Beoause a basket is rather ineonveuient to get at, it is ot\eii negUvteii. If water is given irreguhxrly more runs off than runs into the soil, and the result is the s;\me as when wholly negleeteil. The only way by whieh kvsket-phmts can be grown well is to make it a point to water them daily, and be sure they get enoivgh to reaeh all the soil about the rv>ot^, I have lolloweii this plan with hanging phmfc? for some tin\e with the best of satij^faetion : I suspend the plant by a eorvl running ovor a ]\ook in the ceiling. 1U> Ibanatnfl^JOatJheta 117 'PIk^ 011(1 of tlio cord fastens to a hook about iriidway of thewiiulow-fratJK;. When the i)lant noedn water- ing, I unfasten tho oikI of the (;ord and lower the pot, or basket, nito a pailful of water, where I leave it^until it has taken in all th(i water it iK^eds. TIk!!! it is puhed U|), and th(5 cord is fasteiKuj to its hook a<2;ain. If this j)Ian is followed, and tlie saturation of th(i soil is eoni|)l(!t(! l0ccUancou0 plants 121 IhiJiscus, ill va,ri(^iy. -IMniils witli rich, sliiiiin^ f<)lia}j;(! jukI liir{i,(; liollyliock-likf; (lowers, of criniHon, H(;jirl(;t iuid yellow; HiuniiKir-hlooirxir of jj r(!;il, nicrii. Bkowama. - -A very pretty hlue Ihnver ; of (-jiKy (!iiltur(;. KAitKiKiiDM. — A phiiil, wiUi l;tr;.',(;, (jjntuhir hjavcK of a V(5ry dark j^r(!(;r), Hpotied with yellow; often called th(! " leopiir<] pliijit" hee;iiis(^ of its spots. (Jac'I'i. — 'I'he hest of this exhjnsivo (;I;i.sh of plantH, for hoUHO (;ultur(;, is the phyllo(;af;tus a,nd Uk; epj- pliyilutn, l)oth fine hloorners. BoiKiAiNVini.KA HANhiiiMANA. - A most (;liarniing plant; new; it is .s}iruhl)y in }i;iJ)it, arxJ its new growth Ixjars seonjH of insi;i;nifie;i,nt Mowers in enp- shapod f)ra(;tH of hri<^ht, rosy erinison ; Uw.Ha l)nu'tK arc more hrilliant than most flow(!rs, and they last lor months; tr(!a.t this |)la,nt as yon would a ^(;ra- niurn and you will sueeoed wilJi it. ('yI'IOIM'S Al/noiJVlKOiJiis. — Thci " innhn.'lla plant;" exe.ellent for a<.Hi a soil as any is one eomposeil of ordi- nary g;\i\ien loam. sand, and woll-rotted oow-manure ia t\pial 1^1 rts. One-thini sand may seem t-oo large a proportion for the loam and manure, but it is not. Now here in the world are tiner, healthier bulbs grown than in Holland, whose soil is eompivseil of alnu^st elear sand. Better bulbs ean be grv.nvn in sand alone, properly tertili/ed. than in the richest of soils with- out s^md. Mix your oompost well. Work it over until u is tine and mellow. It is very important that the manure used is old. Fresh manure is harmful to all bulbous plants, out or in-d^x)r. Ji3ulb0 in Timfnter 125 Bulbs <1<) not HMjuin} ;i ^roat deal of root room, thoroforc;, vvlion; ,s|)(;c,iiri(;n,s are grown Hingly, Im-^c. ])()tsarc unno(;(iH,sary. I would advino, liowovor, gi-ow- in<^ several 1)u1))H in Uic h;uih; pot. TIk; efVcoi in mon; pleaHin<^ heojuiHo of Uk; ^niiiicr iiin,ss of color ob- tained in a lirnitod Hpac*;. I'lirco or- four liyacintliH, tuli[)H, or (lafTodil.s can Ix; grown HUcccsHfuIly in a Heven-inch j)ot. Half n dozen (;roeuH(;H or,snowdro[>s will be refiuired to (ill a .six-ineli pot. ThvcAt or four average-Hized bulbs of lb*; licrnnidji, lily can be grown in a ten-incb |)ot. if tbe larg(!st-si/(;(l bulbs are grown, use but one in a Hevcn-incb pot. Water your bulbs well wIkjii you pot tbcrn. Then H(!t them at onee in the cellar, or wlierevcir you decide to keep them while tlu^y are develo|)ing roots. The cellar is generally advised, beeause it is lilajly to be most c(>nvenient, and the conditions genf;rally }>rc- vailing there are those most favonible to tb(; bulbs id this stage of tbcMr existence. liui any plaric will answer that is cool and djirk, or c;in be made so. An old shed, an over-turned dry-goods box, or a trench ill IJh; ground covered with boards, coal ash(;s, leavers — almost anytliing to exclude liglit — will give nearly as good results as a cellar, f)rovided th(i necessary degree of coolness is secured. Builds can })e left in such j)laces until cold weathc^r sets in, by which time they ought to be fairly rooted. Slight ireezing does 126 3f lowers not hurt them, but, in my opinion, hard freezing does. It is not harmful to bulbs in the ground, be- cause its effects are overcome gradually and naturally in spring. I therefore advise removing bulbs put out of doors to form roots to some place free from frost before freezing weather sets in. Many persons fail to see why it is necessary to pot bulbs and put them away to form roots under the conditions here described. '' Why not put them in the window as soon as potted ?'" they ask. I think I can satisfactorily explain Avhy we do this. When planted the bulb has no working roots. There is nothing, save the vitality stored up in the bulb, to develop or support the development of top growth , In the natural order of things, roots should be formed first. While the weather is cool and there is an absence of light, there is nothing to encourage top growth ; but these are precisely the conditions under which newly-planted bulbs form roots, and put themselves in shape for next season's work. When the roots are formed the plant will, at the coming of warm weather, put forth leaves and get ready for flowering. A bulb with strong roots is in a condi- tion to do this work well as soon as you bring it to the light and warmth of the window. But without these roots the development of top growth, which light and warmth would encourage to begin at once, JBulbs in IXXintct 127 must naturally be weak, because there is nothing to support it save the vitality in the bulb, which is not sufficient in itself to bring about perfect develop- ment. Development of root and top cannot satis- factorily go on at the same time, because the top will be making demands which the roots are not in a condition to meet. But if roots are formed before this demand begins, the plant is in shape to develop healthily when the chance is given to do so. There- fore, if you would grow bulbs well, give them from six weeks to two months in which to make roots be- fore you encourage them to do anything else. Be sure your plant has made a good growth of roots before you bring it to the wdndow. But it is not necessary to take a plant out of its dark closet as soon as these roots have been formed. It can safely be left there for some time after this if you desire to delay the blooming period. If any persist, as some will, because of exciting conditions which prevailed before they were planted, in putting up flower stalks before there is a satisfactory development of roots, they will have to be brought out of retirement at once, for to leave them in the dark after they have begun to form buds is to incur the danger of blight. Provide drainage for your bulbs the same as you would for any other plant. Bulbs are really more susceptible to injury from insufficient drainage than 128 3f lowers ordinary plants are, and you cannot expect to grow them well if the soil about them is heavy and wet. The young, tender roots become diseased and the result is inferior flowers or none at all. Set tulips and daffodils so that their crowns will be about an inch below the surface of the soil. Do not quite cover hyacinths. The Bermuda lily should be planted in deep pots. Put in a shallow layer of soil over the drain- age material when you pot bulbs of this plant, and on this place the bulb, which should be just covered lightly. Leave it like this until a stalk starts. Then fill in about this stalk, as it reaches up, until the pot is full or nearly so. This may seem a somewhat strange manner in which to grow a plant, but there is a good reason back of it. While the vital part of a lily is in the bulb, it sends out roots from the stalk which it throws out above the bulb. Therefore, unless the bulb is planted deeply there will be only a thin stratum of soil in which the stalk can put forth these roots, which not only help to feed the plant by drawing nutriment from the soil, but also strengthen and support the stalk by acting as braces to it. Lilies planted with their crown near the surface of the soil will have to be tied to stakes to prevent their being broken off, but deeply planted ones will need no support of this kind. Bear this in mind, Mvilb^ in Mtntet 120 and set your lily bulbs well down in their pots, fill- ing in as the flower-stalk develops if you would grow this most lovely flower to perfection. I would not advise the use of any fertilizer after bringing a plant to the light, if the compost in which it is planted is ordinarily rich in nutriment. Devel- opment is quite likely to be sufficiently rapid in soil of moderate richness. The application of a stimu- lant will so hasten it that it will be forced beyond a healthy limit. When you bring up your plants do not place them at once in a warm room. A room adjoining one in which there is a fire is better for them, if it is frost- proof, than one in which the temperature is likely to run up to 65° or 70°. When in bloom, keep them as cool as possible if you want the flowers to last. I am often asked to name a selection of bulbs for winter use for those who are not familiar enough with them to make their own selection. This I do not like to do, because my selection would be made along the lines of individual taste, and what pleases me best might not be satisfactor}^ to another. There- fore I think it well to briefly allude to some of the leading characteristics of the bulbs most desirable for forcing, and let each person select for himself. Tulips have large flowers, of many colors, some of 9 130 flowers them exceedingly rich and brilliant. They produce but one flower to a bulb. This will be on a stalk six or eight inches tall. The single sorts are best for forcing. Hyacinths of the ordinary class send up but one flower-spike from each bulb, but that spike, wdiich will be from six to eight inches in height, will be clothed with bloom nearly its entire length, therefore the effect produced is much more satisfactory, where a mass of color is desired, than that of the tulip. The single hyacinths are preferable to the double ones, as their flowers are smaller, and do not crowd each other so as to obliterate their individuality, as the double sorts are likely to do. Roman hyacinths send up several stalks from the same bulb. Their flowers, which are single, are loosely arrayed along the stem, and are really the most graceful of any of the family. They come in white, pink, blue, and pale yellow. The ordinary hyacinth of the garden has a wider range of color. All hyacinths are very fragrant, and as they are of the easiest culture, they demand a foremost place in the list of desirable plants for pot culture. The amateur is much more likely to succeed with them than with the tulip. The daffodil or narcissus is one of the loveliest of flowers. The best forcing varieties are ,• mwlbs in Winter 131 Early Paper. — White. Van Sion. — Clear ^^ellow. Double Roman. — White and orange. Income ARABLLS Plenus. — Pale yellow perianth, with orange cup. Stella Alba. — Pure white, with cup of gold. Trumpet Major. — Yellow and cream white. The popular " Chinese Sacred Lily " is a narcissus of the polyanthus class, and can be grown in soil or water. The Bermuda lily, catalogued as Lily Harrisii, and popularly known as the " Easter Lily," because it is extensively grown for decoration at Easter-time, is one of the most satisfactory of all bulbs, since it is almost sure to bloom if ordinary care is given it. And no flower excels it in stately grace or lovely purity. If I could have but one bulb for winter use it should be this. CHAPTER XXIII HOW TO MAKE AND CARE FOR THE LAWN The village home, and the home of the farmer as well, is never what it may be, or what it ought to be, unless it has its lawn. This may be small, — so small, indeed, that to give it the name of lawn seems almost like burlesque, — but the fear of laying one's self open to ridicule by giving a modest bit of ground too pre- tentious a name should not deter one from making the most of the opportunity to improve the home grounds. Lawn-making on a large scale is quite unlike amateur lawn-making, because it can be done by the use of machinery specially constructed for the pur- pose, and under the supervision of men skilled in the work. There is a plan by which one may work, and the development goes on with a system which brings about definite and most satisfactory results. There is no haphazard work about it. On the home grounds, where the lawn can be only a part of a small lot, no very elaborate arrangement is possible ; but before anything is done it is always advisable to study the situation, and have some definite idea of what you are going to do. 132 1bow to ^a?ie anD Care for tbe Xawn 133 If the house stands in the centre of a compara- tively level lot, it will generally be found most satis- factory to have the ground slope away evenly from it on all sides. If a cellar has been dug, or much earth thrown out in making the foundation of the house, there will be considerable available material on hand which can be filled in next to the house in such a manner as to produce the necessary slope there. But if there is but little of this material there, or the lot is of considerable size, it will be necessary to do a good deal of filling in, if grading is not prac- ticable. Where this can be done, the soil can be scraped from the edges of the lot to the vicinity of the house until there is enough there to produce the desired slope. But this plan cannot be made to work on lots of much size, as not enough material can be spared from the edges of the lot. The best thing to do is to have earth drawn in on the premises. Some persons get the idea that the kind of soil used in making a lawn is of little importance. This is a mistake. The soil, in order to produce good results, should be quite rich. A good growth of sward cannot be expected from a soil lacking in fer- tility. . Therefore, if the material used is not what it ought to be in this respect, be sure that it is enriched before sowing any seed upon it. Old, well-rotted manures from the horse and cow stables are good, but 134 3flower6 there is always the possibility of introducing weeds by their use. If one has to buy his fertilizer, I would advise the use of bone-meal, or some of the many reliable fertilizers on the market, as these pro- duce prompt and satisfactory results, and no weeds can come from them. Do not be satisfied with a simple application to the surface of the soil, but apply it in liberal quantities, and have it worked well into the soil. This advice applies to whatever kind of manure is used. It should get down to where the roots are to be when the sward is grown. Before sowing the lawn, care should be taken to have the soil fine and even. To secure this condi- tion, go over it several times with the hoe and the rake. Use the hoe to break apart all clods, and do not be satisfied until they are thoroughly broken up. What you want as a foundation for a good lawn is a soil that is fine and mellow, and alike in this respect in all parts of it. If you only half do the work of preparing it, you will have fine and mellow patches alternating with hard and lumpy ones, and the effect will be readily discernible in the appearance of the sward. After breaking up all the lumps with the hoe, go over the ground with an iron rake. You will find that this works many unseen lumps to the sur- face, and these should be pulverized in turn. Then go over it again and again — keep at it, indeed, until Ibow to /nbafte anO Care for tbe Xawn 135 you are unable to bring any more lumps to the sur- face. When you have the soil so finely pulverized that there are no lumps — and not till then — your lawn will be ready to receive the seed. If there are any hollows or depressions, be sure to see that the soil that is put into them to bring them to the prevailing level is made firm. If this is not done, and the soil is left loose, as when dumped or scraped in, it will settle after a time, under the influ- ence of heavy rains, and you will have an uneven surface. This can be prevented, if care is taken to beat down all such places until the soil has the same firm compactness there as elsewhere. Some prefer to grade their lawns one season, and let them remain without sowing until the next season, thus giving the soil a chance to settle thoroughly. I do not consider this necessary, if pains be taken to make the soil firm, A good instrument with which to do this is iriade by fastening a block of wood to a handle, something like the old-fashioned " pounder " which women use in " pounding out clothes '• as a prelim- inary part of the operations of washing-day. It should not be so heavy that it cannot be used to advantage, but the heavier it is the more effective its work. Care should be taken to see that all necessary work is done before seed-sowing, as after that but 136 ^flowers little can be done Avithout seriously interfering with the well-being of the sward. Do not be in too great a hurry to have your lawn completed, for one does not make a lawn every year, and when he does make it he wants it to be something that will be satisfae- tory. In order to have it so, every part of the work about it must bo done carefully and well. This fact cannot be too lirmly impressed upon the mind of the amateur lawn-maker. Therefore, I say again, take time for it, and slight nothing. Remember that you are doing something which, if not satisfactory, can hardly be undone and made over next season. There is no reason why a lawn, if well made, and well cared for, should not last for years, or a lifetime. One cannot be too careful in the selection of seed. Almost every dealer in agricultural wares has what he calls lawn-grass seed on sale, but in many in- stx^nces the mixture is a cheap one, and the use of it will give most unsatisfactory results. What is wanted is a mixture of seeds of grasses having a tendency to make a low and spreading growth — some- thing that " stools out " until the sward is thick and deep, and feels under the foot like the pile of a velvet carpet. I find that it always pays to send to some of the old seed firms who have built up a reputation by years of honest dealing, and get the mixture they oUer. You may have to pay more for them, but you Ibow to /llbaKc anD Care foe tbe Xawn 137 may V)e rea8ona})]y sure of getting something that will give satisfaetion, for such dealers cannot afford to send out an inferior article. One important thing to rememl^er is to use seed liherally. Thinly-sowed lawns have to be given a longer time to develop than is required by those on which seed has oeen used in large quantities. ^ The grass must thicken before it will make a good sward. By thick sowing a similar result can be obtained the first season. In purchasing seed it is always well to let the dealer of whom you buy it know the size of your lot, and leave it to him to determine the quan- tity of seed you will need. You need not be afraid of his taking the advantage of you, for, as I have already said, he has a reputation for fair dealing which will prevent him from doing this. In sowing the seed, choose a still day. If the* wind blows ever so slightly, you will not be able to sow it evenly, because most of it is light as dust, and a puff of air will send it from your hand in such a manner that some of it may be carried to ground which you have already sown, while that fVjr which you intend it may get none at all. it is a good plan to get some man used to sowing grass-seed to do this part of the work for you, if possible. If you cannot do this, it is well 1o go over the ground twice, once from east to west, and once from north to south. By 138 jplowers cross-sowing you will be likely to get the seed scat- tered with comparative evenness. If you have a small iron roller, or any device that is similar, it is a very good plan to go over the ground wdth it, imme- diately after sowing the seed, to force it into the soil, and thus prevent its being blown away. But do not use a rake on it, as some do. I would not begin to mow a new lawn until the grass has growm to a height of three or four inches, and then I would not cut it very close. To do this, at this stage, often injures the sward greatly. I would clip it about twice a week, for the first summer, if the season is an ordinarily moist one. If very dry, I would not use the mower so often. It is a great mis- take to keep your grass cut too close. There must be enough of the grass-blade at the root of the plant left to make a good showing of green if one expects the sward to look well. Cutting close — and some almost shave the turf — gives the sward a brown look, because the crown of the plant and the dead leaves usually found there have a chance to show through the few green leaves left. If the season is a dry one, and 3"ou live in a town having water facilities, you can benefit the lawn greatly by wetting it down well every evening. To do this, 3^ou must use a good deal of water, and shift the hose about so that all parts are reached })y it. But do not begin to do this unless 1bow to /Iftalie anD dare fot tbe Xawn 139 you can do it thoroughly, and keep it up as long as necessary. Spasmodic attentions are always harmful. If you live in the country, where there is no system of water-works, it is not worth while to attempt to supply needed moisture by any manner of Avatering available there, because it is impossible to apply enough water to do any good. One could spend his whole time in applying water with a pail or a watering-pot without benefiting the lawn in the least. After the first season, most lawns will be in a condi- tion to stand dry weather pretty well without artifi- cial watering, because they will have so thick a sward that the moisture of the soil is prevented from evapo- rating rapidly by the shade it furnishes. It is a most excellent plan to give the lawn a dressing of bone-meal every fall, before snow comes. This dissolves under the action of the elements, and finds its way to the roots of the grass, and the result is a strong, early growth of healthy character. In June give another application of the fertilizer. Let it be liberal, each time. In this way you keep up the fertility of the soil, which it is absolutely neces- sary to do if you expect your lawn to continue to be the ''thing of beauty " you will make it if you follow out these instructions carefully. In raking off the clippings, never use a sharp-toothed rake, for it is sure to tear the soil, but provide yourself with a wire rake made for lawn use. CHAPTER XXIV PLANTING THE LAWN About the first thing many persons do, after mak- ing a lawn, is to spoil it by planting shrubbery all over it. Most persons lose sight of the fact, or are ignorant of it, that one cannot have a fine lawn if there are many shrubs growing on it, neither will the shrubs develop well in a soil partly given up to grass. You will be doing a good deal of unnecessar}^ work — work that does not need doing if shrubs are to take the place of grass. Let the lawn proper be lawn, and choose a place for j^our shrubs where they will not be at v/ar with the sward. Of course, sward can grow among them, but it must be kept away from them, or they will be choked and starved out. By this I mean that in order to give a shrub a chance it will be necessary to keep the grass cut away a foot and a half or two feet on all sides of it, and to do this on the open lawn would make a sorry sight of it. Therefore do not plant your lawn in such a manner that you will spoil it by cutting out half the sward in it. The primary idea of a lawn is a stretch of green 140 {Planting tbe ILawn 141 sward between house and street, or, at any rate, near the house, and its object is to afford a restful bit of color for the eye, and to isolate the house, in a sense, from the public highway. It is the sign of separa- tion of home from the outside world, and the broader its expanse the more privacy and seclusion it gives to the home. But a small lawn serves to carry out this idea of seclusion to a considerable ex- tent, provided it is not spoiled by breaking up the sweep of it by planting too many shrubs there. If this is done, the sense of distance and privacy is de- stroyed, and the impression given is not half as pleasing as that resulting from a lawn entirely with- out shrubs. I would not advise one to discard shrubs alto- gether, however, on even a very small lawn, but rather to plant them in such a manner that a por- tion of it near the house, and between it and the road or street, if possible, be left unbroken. Shrubs can be planted at the sides, and when confined there they help to carry out the suggestion of a separation of your property from your neighbor's. But, for good taste's sake, do not make the all too common mistake of planting your shrubbery in rows, or in groups that recur with the regularity of apple trees in an orchard. Aim to avoid all arrange- ments that will suggest formality, Before planting 142 flowers the lawn I would advise you to go to the fields and see how Nature arranges her shrubs in corners where she has not been interfered with. The growth of bushes along the edge of a held will afford you some valuable hints about planting shrubs along the edge of your lawn. There will be no prim regularity there, no straight rows, but a simplicity that is the perfection of artistic arrangement. Because, you will find, if you take the trou])le to stud}^ into itj that Nature is always artistic because she is always simple and direct. When she aims to carry out an idea she goes straight to the heart of it, and in the simplest fashion possible. She is governed by her instincts, which are unerring, and, therefore, she never makes a mistake. You cannot learn the les- son of the hedge-rows and the fence-corners in a day, but you can get some idea of the line along which Nature works, and you can imitate her to some ex- tent, and tliat will be much better than imitating your neiglibors, for the probability is that in doing that you will be copying a mistake, and the more a mistake is copied the greater tlie departure is from whatever similarity there ^vas to the original idea at the beginning. In perpetuating a mistake b}^ repe- tition of it, we almost invariably exaggerate its most objectionable features. Care must be taken to plant in the background Iplanting tbe Xavvn 143 such shrubs as are of tall growth. In order to do this you must understand the habit of growth of the kinds you decide to use, or you may get them in the wrong place. We frequently see collections of shrub- bery in which those in the foreground completely hide those behind them. When w^e see anything of this kind it is safe to conclude that whoever planted them did not understand much about the habit of the shrubs he selected. I will give a list of such shrubs as I would recom- mend for general planting, with the height to which they generally grow : Lilacs, old-fashioned sorts, eight to twelve feet; Persian varieties, five to seven feet. Hydrangea paniculata, four to five feet. Weigelias, three to four feet. Spireas, three to four feet. Amygdalus (ahiiond), three to four feet. Pyrus Japonica (Japan quince), two and one-half to three feet. Flowering currant, five to six feet. Syringa, five to six feet. Honeysuckles, six to eight feet. Deutzia, two to three feet. Berberry, six to eight feet. Exochorda, ten to fifteen feet. I have named a dozen shrubs. The list could be 144 jflowcrs greatl}^ extended, but I do not consider it advisable to add to it, because I never advise the amateur to attempt the cultivation of plants requiring peculiar treatment, or of those not hardy enough to stand our Northern winters. Because I have named but a dozen kinds it does not follow that I Avould advise the use of but a dozen shrubs, for there are so many varieties among the dozen that a large lawn could be stocked with the kinds named without duplicating any variety. A few good ones will prove vastly more satisfactory, however, than a large number of inferior ones. We generally make the serious mis- take of planting three or four times as many shrubs as the law^i wdll stand, because at planting time they are so small that they produce but little show and occupy but little space, and we lose sight of the fact that if they grow and develop well they will, in a few years, become crowded, and nothing about the home grounds is more unsatisfactory than a thicket of shrubl_^ery in which every shrub loses its individ- uality and interferes with its neighbor to such an extent that all are made weak and inferior. When you plant shrubs remember that nearly all will, when fully developed, have a spread of from four to six feet, and plant accordingly. If you group them, of course the plants of which the group is composed can be set closer together, but leave a space about Iplanttns tbe ILawn 145 the group the same as you would about a single shrub, for the effect of a group of shrubs is that of one large shrub. Therefore, before planting your lawn, go over the list of shrubs given above, if your selection is made from it, and select according to size to fit the various places at which you will plant. I would suggest that you draw up a diagram of your grounds and mark on it the place for each shrub before you begin to plant. By doing this you will not be likely to make any mistakes if you have studied the list and are governed by the figures given there. I am an advocate of the system of grouping our smaller shrubs. Much finer effects are secured in this way than when the shrubs are planted singly. Take the deutzia as an illustration. One plant is charming, so far as it goes, but there is not enough of it to produce a strong effect. But plant four or five in a group, and you get an effect that is striking because the breadth of it gives the dignity and strength seldom possessed by a single plant. It is true that sometimes we see fine, large specimens of this and other shrubs of similar habit of growth, but not often, and my advice is based on the size to which they generally grow. The hydrangea, planted singly, makes an attractive shrub, but no one under- stands the capabilities of the plant for grand decora- 10 146 3Flo\vcr3 live effect until ho lias soon it growing in masses. And Avhat is true of the hydrangea is true of most medium sized and all small shrubs. But be sure to treat your groups precisely as you would such shrubs as do not stand grouping well, like the lilac, and isolate thoni from other groups. In other words, consider a group as a shrub of greater size than the ordinary, and treat it accordingly. Bear in mind what I have said about formality. Avoid straight rows and regular distances. Let the shrubbery grounds curve along the edges of the lawn without breaking over into it. I would not plant shrubs near the house. They interfere with the freedom of view and destroy the el^Vct gained by planting them at the sides of the lawn. If you must have tiowers there, use such summer plants as the dahlia, salvia, or canna. In planting shrubs be sure to have the soil rich and nu41ow. and do the work carefully and thor- oughly. Do not dig a little hole, as many do. and crowd the roots of the plants into it in a tangled mass, and then tramp the soil down upon them roughly. ^lake the hole large enough to allow of straiglitening out the roots in a natural manner, and then scatter soil over them and work it in among them with your lingers. When they are covered, apply water enough to thoroughly settle the soil, IPlanting tbe Xavvn 147 after which fill in about the plant until you have disposed of all the earth. If the season is a very dry one, it may be necessary to water newly-set plants occasionally, but in ordinary seasons the watering given at planting-time will be sufficient to keep the roots moist until tlie plant gets a start. It pays to do this part of the work well. If you do it in a slovenly manner it is quite evident that the care of the shrub in the future will be slovenly, and shrubs given such treatment cannot be expected to give much satisfaction. The man or woman who has a genuine love for these things will be willing to give them good care, and only by doing this can success be attained with them. My definition of success in plant-growing is — getting out of a plant all that is in it. This can only be done by studying its habits and needs, and treating it accordingly. It wdll be noticed that I have said nothing about roses. I did not omit them from the list because I would advise omitting them from the garden, but because I do not consider the rose suitable for plant- ing in prominent positions on the lawn. It does not attain a size that gives it dignity enough for such a position, even when grouped, and it is not to be de- pended on to come through the winter in good con- dition. By all means have roses — and a good many of them — but give them a place by themselves, in 148 3flo\vcr3 the most sheltered nook of your garden, where you can give them protection in winter without making an unsightly spot on the lawn. Hardy shruhs are beautiful in winter, when their branches show against a background of snow with all the delicacy and dis- tinctness of an etcher's lines, but a barrack of boards about a rose-bed woi^ld hardl}' add to the attraction of a winter lawn. CHAPTER XXV THE OUT-DOOR GARDEN Too frequently the summer flower-garden is un- satisfactory. Often, quite disappointing. There is lack of system and harmony in its arrangements which might have been avoided in a great degree, or altogether, if proper forethought had been exercised. Many amateur florists wait until the time for garden-making is at hand before giving any thought to the matter. They have not decided on any plan or arrangement of beds, or of plants to grow in them. They seem inclined to " trust to luck " and the " inspirations of the moment " for things to turn out satisfactorily, and this they seldom do. " Luck " cannot be depended on in such matters. The only way to secure a satisfactory result in the flower-garden is by giving it careful study. Decide on what you can do, or at any rate, what you would like to do, and think the matter over well before you begin operation. Do not make elaborate plans when you have the least reason to doubt your abil- ity to carry them forward to successful com])letion. Don't undertake more than you can easily do. Don't attempt to have everything that is worth 149 150 3f lowers growing in }- our garden. The ordinary home-garden can include but a small share of all really desirable plants. Select a few of the best, but only as many as you feel sure of being able to properly cultivate, remembering, alwa^^s, that a few plants well grown are sure to afford pleasure to yourself and friends, while a great many poorly grown ones are a source of vexation and disappointment. Quality should be considered as of more importance than quantity. Do not aim to have your garden like that of any one else. Be original. Much of the pleasure de- rived from flower-gardening operations consists in planning to suit the owner's ideas of the fitness of things, rather than in copying the designs of others. Do not go to ivork with a great deal of enthu- siasm, setting out to accomplish great things, then become " weary in well-doing," and end by letting your garden grow up with weeds. Unless you feel sure that you are willing to do a good deal of hard work in weeding and hoeing and transplanting — unless you have enough resolution and perseverance to give your garden the attention it needs all through the season, do not attempt to have one. If you have never had a garden, and do not fully understand the demands it will make upon your time and labor, start out in a very conservative way. Have a small one this year. Next year have a larger Z\yc ®ut*2)ooc 0arDen 151 one if the success of this year warrants you in at- tempting it. It may be that one year's experience will convince you that it is not desirable to attempt having any. But I do not fear such a result if you really love flowers, and only those who really love them should attempt to grow them. Never allow the " design " of a bed to give you more concern than what you put in it. As a general thing, the anicateur gardener will do well to steer clear of " fancy beds." Unless they are given a great deal of attention they are sure to be unsatisfactory. Aim, then, to have beds of pleasing shape, but let these shapes be simple and in harmony with the habit and character of the plants to be grown in them. Circular or oval beds are suited to jDromi- nent locations, because tall plants may be grown in the centre, smaller ones about them, and low sorts at the edge, giving an effect v/hich is pleasing from all points of view. Circular or curving beds are more satisfactory than straight or square ones, because all plants seem more in harmony with curves and flowing lines than with angles. If you are not very particular about the shape of your bed, but want something easy to reach from all points, a long, nar- row one will suit you best. Such beds near the path, and following its curves and angles in general out- line, are always more pleasing than wide ones. 152 Jplowerg If you have wide beds that are to be seen from the path and are at some distance from it, plant tall flowers at the farther side, and arrange your plants in such a manner as to give one the idea of a slope or bank. Always keep in mind the principal points from which your beds will be seen, and arrange your plants so as to have them make an effective display from those positions. In order to do this satisfactorily it will be neces- sary^ to study your catalogues thoroughly, so that you may know what kinds to plant in the back- ground, the middle distance, and the foreground. If your garden is long and narrow, and at one sid^ of the path, as many necessarily are, because of the circumscribed limits of village or city lots, let the " banking " idea prevail throughout. That is, plant tall growers in the farther bed, and work down to low-growing plants in the places nearest the path. In this way it is possible to give all a chance to dis- play themselves. Such a result, however, cannot be secured without a knowledge of the material you are to use. Know your plants. If you want the best possible effects, do not put several kinds of flowers in the same bed. Most satisfactory results are secured by planting each kind b}^ itself, and, as ,a general thing, each color by itself. But where contrast is desired, two or tibe ©ut*2)oor (3arDen 153 three colors may be used very effectively m the same bed, provided they are such as harmonize perfectly. Not all colors of the same flower are in harmony with each other. You can easily satisfy yourself of the force and truth of this statement if you place clusters of the scarlet, mauve, and magenta phlox side by side. The combination is positively painful in its effect upon the eye. So do not place several varieties of the same flower in the same bed unless you know what the colors of these varieties are. It is because of the inharmonious combination of color that nearly always results when packages of "mixed" seed are used that I advise buying packages in which each color is kept by itself, for in this way you can plant for a particular effect, and be reasonabl}^ sure of getting it. But this you* can never do when mixed seed is used. In planning the garden, do not consider one bed as entirely independent of the others. Rather, con- sider the garden as a whole, and arrange your beds in such a manner that the color in one will harmo- nize with that in the next one. Study general effect rather than individual display in the selection and arrangement of your colors. It is well to make a plan of your summer garden on paper, early in the season. Think it out carefully while you have plenty of time to do so. Imagine 154 3flowcr6 the effect of this or that phint in this or that place, and shift and change about until you feel sure j^ou have an arrangement by which each kind 3^ou have decided to use ma}^ be most effectively seen from the path or the house. If 3'OU are familiar with plants, it is not at all difficult to form mental pictures of the garden to be, which will be of great hel]^ to j^ou in coming to conclusions as to what plants to have, and where to have them. When you have decided, draw a map or diagram of your garden as you propose to have it, marking eacli bed with the name of the plant it is to contain. When the time comes to do the work, you will know just what to do, and when the time comes to sow seed or set out plants, 3"ou will know just where they belong. A plan of this kind greatly expedites matters, because it simplifies them, and gives you something to be governed by. Without such a plan, gardening operation3 are sure to be on the hap-hazard s^^stem. The garden which affords most pleasure is the one which has been most carefully thought out in all its details. I have said but little about beds, their form, or their arrangement, because it is impossible to do very much in this line without knowing the conditions that prevail in each case. Each person must be a " law unto himself " in this matter. If he has good taste, and understands the plants he has selected, he Zbc ®ut=2)oou (3arDen 155 can arrange his garden much more to his pleasure than any one else can arrange it for him. Any one who has the true gardening instinct will prefer to attend to this matter for himself. Let me give one item of advice which the amateur will do well to heed. Do not attempt anything elaborate unless you have had considerable experi- ence. There is safety in simplicity. I would also advise having separate beds for annuals and so-called " bedding plants." ^ The two classes do not combine Avell. " Bedding plants," so called by the florists to dis- tinguish between the annuals and the greenhouse plants used for filling beds on the lawn or in the garden, seldom bloom as freely — with the exception of the geranium — as annuals do, and have a quite different habit of growth, and because of these dif- ferences it is advisable to keep them apart. Most " bedding " plants have more delicate flowers than the annuals, and a greater " air of distinction," because of quality, and they should be given a place near the house or path where their beauty can be seen to the best advantage. The following plants are adapted for conspicuous positions on the lawn or for back rows : Dahlias, amaranthus, salvia, canna, zinnia, gladiolus. For beds where plants of medium height are 156 jflowcre wanted : Aster, balsam, calliopsis, larkspur, mari- gold, poppy, phlox. For low beds near the path or house : Pansy, eschscholtzia, daisy, candytuft, sweet alyssum, por- tulaca, ageratuni, verbena. For beds where a brilliant show of color is de- sired: Calliopsis, yellow; eschscholtzia, yellow; salvia, scarlet ; phlox drunimondii, rose and white; nasturtium, orange and maroon ; petunia, violet, crimson and white. For border j)lants : Candytuft, white; alyssum, white; ageratum, blue ; lobelia, blue. The best edging plants among the bedding ones are: ^lad. Sallcroi geranium, green and white; golden-feather pyrethrum, yellow ; centaurea, gray. By using the various shades of coleus a greater range of color can be obtained, but T do not consider this a very good plant for edging a bed. It does better as a " filler," with some more close-jointed, compact-growing plant as a border. For combinations where brilliant show of color is desired use scarlet salvia as a centre plant, sur- rounded with golden-yellow calliopsis and edged with candytuft or sweet alyssum. Dwarf maroon nasturtiums can also be used effectively. For tropical beds on the lawn the ricinus is an important plant. It grows to great size and has a XLbc ©utsDoor <5ar&en 157 spread of six or eight feet, with hronzy foliage often two or three feet across. Its immense leaves have a rich, metallic lustre, and give the ]3lant a most stately appearance. One plant is impressive in its effect, but several in a group are better. These can be used alone or in combination with cannas or cal- adiums. For smaller beds use cannas in variety, planting with due regard to size as well as color of foliage. For covering screens or fences : Sweet pea, morn- ing glory, flowering bean, Maurandia, gourds. For sunny locations : Portulacas, nasturtiums. For shady places : Pansy, myosotis. For beds close to the path : Tea roses, first of all ; heliotropes, verbenas, pansies. For carpet-bedding, where color alone is required: Coleus yellow-bird, pyrethrum golden-feather, yellow; achyranthes, alternanthera, crimson, yellow, and green in combination ; coleus, red, maroon, and green and white ; centaurea, coral, silver}^ gray. For massing : Petunias, phlox, aster, calliopsis. For cutting, the following plants are excellent : Sweet peas, heliotrope, mignonette, nasturtium, calli- opsis, tea-roses, salvia, poppy, dahlia, gladiolus, rud- beckia, " golden glow," pansy. For planting about the veranda : sweet pea, morn- ing glory, Maurandia. 158 3f lowers For late flowering: Asters, ten-week stock, pansy. Of the easiest culture : Petunia, phlox, calliopsis, balsam, aster, marigold, sweet pea, morning glory, candy tuft, sweet alyssum, pansy, portulaca, nastur- tium, zinnia, gladiolus, larkspur. The plants in the foregoing list are especially adapted to the needs of the amateur Horist. They are hard}^, self-reliant, robust, and free flowering, and they are all good. I think a careful study of the several lists that have been given Avill enable any one to select plants suited to each purpose in flower-garden or lawn requirements. I have named the best kinds for gen- eral use and have given lists large enough to admit of free selection. In looking over the catalogues you wdll find a great many I have not mentioned. Some are good ; some are not. Some are satisfactory^ when grown by an experienced gardener, but disappointing w^hen grown by the amateur. The kinds named fill requirements, and the man or woman who gives them proper care may feel reasonabl}^ sure of success with them. A few words as to w^iat is meant b}^ the term " proper care " may not be amiss. By it I mean — 1st. Keeping the bed free from weeds. You can- not grow good flowers unless you suppress the weeds. The two will not get along well together. Therefore, Jibe ©ut*Door (3arDen 159 never allow a weed to become established in your flower-beds. Pull it up the moment you dis- cover it. 2d. Keeping the ground open and mellow, to en- able it to made use of all the moisture that comes along, either from rain or dew. Never let the sur- face of the soil become hard and crusted. If you do, it cannot take in moisture and your plants will suffer for lack of it. Stir it two or three times a week throughout the season, whether it is wet or dry. 3d. Removing all fading flowers. By doing this you prevent the formation of seed and induce the plant to continue the production of flowers. If you allow seed to form, all the energies of the plant will be used in ripening and perfecting it, and you will get but few flowers after the first general crop. There- fore, never allow a plant to form seed if you want to keep it blooming during the season. CHAPTER XXVI HARDY BORDER PLANTS Every year I am more and more impressed with the value of hardy border plants for the amateur florist. The}^ are good for years, when once estab- lished, if properly cared for, and to care for them properly does not call for a great amount of labor. The term, " proper care " is one in which there are several degrees. In the lowest degree, it means simply keeping the weeds from encroaching on the plants, and this is about all the care that hard}^ border plants are likely to receive from very many amateurs, and most varieties will do quite well with this simple atten- tion — much better, in fact, than any other class of plants. The next degree adds to keeping down the weeds, the regular and liberal fertilization of the soil. This is a matter I have constantly urged as being of the greatest importance to one who aims to develop the plants in such a manner as to satisf}^ the enthusi- astic florist who, it must be remembered, is not to be satisfied with the average plant, the plant as generally 160 IbarDg JSorDec lplant6 161 grown, but who insists upon having finest specimens. Quality is more to him than quantity. In the third degree there are included many little items of attention which I need not mention here, but which the careful cultivator will understand fully, if he studies his plants, for a knowledge of them will enable him to see what can be done for their benefit without being told about it. There are many seemingly unimportant things connected with plant- culture which are really of great importance, and with these we must become familiar by experience and personal work among the plants. They cannot be "put down in the books." It is an acquired knowledge. For the lover of flowers who has not a great deal of time to devote to their care herbaceous plants are the kind to be selected for the garden, because of the ease with which they are cultivated and the generous returns they make. It requires less care to keep a large collection of them free from weeds than it takes to w^eed a small bed of annuals, and work with the hoe is far easier than hand-weeding. I would not be understood as advising the neglect of annuals, but I would advise the growing of fewer annuals and more hardy border plants. One of the very best perennials is the phlox. It has always been valued highly as a means of produc- 11 162 3flowet0 ing a grand show of color. Of late, varieties have been produced which are wonderfully beautiful when the individual flower is considered. Some of the newer sorts are as large and as brilliant as a gera- nium, and when the immense size of their trusses is taken into consideration, and the length of time they remain in bloom, with the large number of flower stalks sent up from each strong clump of roots, the good qualities of this plant will be more fully real- ized by those who have seen it but have not grown it. I consider it the best hardy summer-flowering plant for general culture. Its care is of the simplest. It likes a rich soil, as all plants of this class do. It likes to have grass and weeds kept from choking it and robbing it of nutriment. Beyond this it makes no demands. Year after year its roots increase in size, and the clump grows larger, until you have a solid mass of flowers three or four feet across, of all shades of crimson, rose, violet, lilac, purple, and scarlet to pure white. It is entirely hardy. It is easily increased by division of its roots. It is charming when planted among shrubbery to fur- nish brightness after the shrubs have passed their period of bloom. Fine effects are secured by planting it in groups, with the tall-growing sorts in the rear. Next in value to the phlox I would j^lace the 1barOi2 3i3or&er iplante 163 hollyhock. I am not sure but I would give it first jDlace on the list if it were as strong and hardy as tlie phlox, but it is not, consequently there are more failures with it. The old single varieties used to be very robust, and lasted for years, but the new and beautiful double sorts seem to have gained their beauty at the expense of vitality, and the plants are seldom worth keeping for a third season. I would advise sowing a few seeds each year, so that a supply of young and healthy plants can be kept on hand. These young plants should have a protection of leaves given them in fall, and care should be taken to see that water does not stand about their roots. Nothing is more effective for bold and prominent points of decoration than groups of these new double hollyhocks, with their rich and varied coloring, run- ning through all shades of red, scarlet, purple, rose, and maroon, so dark as to appear almost black, and ranging from this to pale yellow and pure white. But the old single kinds deserve a place in every garden. For back rows, where something of good size and striking appearance is desired, it is one of the best of all plants. The aquilegias, of which there are many varieties, are all desirable, and among our best hard}^ plants. I prefer the soft, delicate yellows, the pure, pale blues, and the white kinds. Mass them and you 164 flowers will have a charming body of color for weeks during the early part of the season. Coreopsis lanceolata is one of the new plants, sure to win its way to popular favor. It is perfectly hardy. It sends up many slender flower-stalks crowned with daisy-like blossoms of the richest yellow. The pink and white herbaceous spireas deserve a place in every garden. We have few daintier flowers than these, with their delicate, feathery clusters lifted airily above their clustering foliage on long and slender stalks. They are very hardy. No garden is complete without peonies. One fre- quently sees strong old clumps of them, three or four feet across, bearing hundreds of flowers, of noble size and most beautiful coloring. Such a specimen of this plant is magnificent when in bloom, and cannot be too highly prized. Give it a somewhat heavy, clayey soil, and make it very rich with old cow-manure. Disturb its roots as little as possible. The perennial larkspur is a grand plant when well grown. It often reaches a height of seven or eiglit feet, with thirt}^, fifty, often a hundred stalks from each strong clump of roots, each one bearing a spike of flowers from two to three feet in length. Formo- sum is of the richest blue, deep, intense, and almost luminous in its brilliance. This is one of the plants IbarDB JSorDcc plants 165 belonging to the back row. There are pale blue and white varieties, but they are not so fine as the good old formosum. One of the popular flowers of the day is the iris, and deservedly so. This plant has a wonderful range of rich and delicate colors. Such blues and yellows and purples, such maroons and pearly whites, such grays and violets, we seldom find in any flower. Its exquisite colors and combinations of color, its long season of bloom, and its freedom of flowering makes it a favorite wherever it is grown. The domesticated aster is another most desirable plant. Cultivation has greatly improved it in size. It blooms much more freely than its relatives of the fence-corner and the pasture-lot. It comes at a time when there is a dearth of flowers, and last« until the coming of cold weather. The two best sorts for the amateur's garden are novse anglea and rosea. Of course, every border should have its collection of lilies. There should be the Japanese sorts, album, speciosum and rubrum, with that showy old-timer, the " tiger lily," brilliant in orange and brown, and the well-known candelabrum, with its golden cups uplifted to catch the sunshine. I do not advise longiflorum or auratum for cultivation at the ex- treme north, for they are not hardy enough to be depended upon. 166 3f lowers For front rows, there is the hardy pink, the pretty little phlox sublata, and the evergreen candytuft. I must not forget to speak a good word for the dicentra. This lovely flower has the special merit of being an early bloomer. It follows the bulbs closely, and is quite as beautiful as anything that grows in the garden. Its long sprays of pink and white flowers are excellent for cutting. Give it a very rich soil. It is entirely hardy. The new rudbeckia, " golden glow," is one of the finest plants of recent introduction. It is as hardy as a plant can possibly be. It is a wonderful bloomer, and its rich, golden yellow flowers are quite as fine as the popular semi-double dahlias, which they re- semble in size and shape. I would advise having the border by itself, as far as possible, because it will be necessary to hoe about the plants in it frequently, and this can be done to better advantage if they are by themselves than where tliey are i:)lanted among shrubberry. Grown among shrubs, they will quite surely be robbed to a great extent of the nutriment they require. I would advise the use of a few perennials among the shrubs, but the bulk of them should have a place of their own. A good place for them is beside a fence which you would like to hide as much as possible. Of course it will be understood that the list here 1barDi2 3BorOcc iplants 167 given does not include all the really good kinds of hardy plants, but it is made up of those which are most likely to do well under such care as they are likely to get from the amateur gardener, and there is not a poor kind in it. Most of them are free bloom- ers. Many of them flower for a period of several weeks, and all of them are capable of taking care of themselves if you give them a good soil and a little attention spring and fall, along the lines already indicated. As the amateur gardener attains success in the cultivation of the kinds named, he can add to his collection those more particular in their require- ments. In this, as in all other branches of gardening, it is well to begin in a modest way if one has it all to learn, and extend operations as his knowledge of plants and their needs increases. Davy Crockett's well-known advice, " Go slow and learn to peddle," applies to floriculture in all its phases, as well as to all other kinds of business. One cannot become a successful cultivator of flowers in a season. CHAPTER XXVII TABLE DECORATIONS In conclusion, a few remarks on simple but artistic decorations for the dinner-table, by those who have small green-houses or conservatories, or even small window-gardens, will not be out of place. It is an easy matter, after a little practice, for those who have good taste to arrange decorations for the table with simple material. Little dinner parties need not necessitate calling in the expensive decorator. More elaborate parties can be met in a more elaborate manner of decoration, if thought advisable, but I am confident that a little experience in adorning a table with flowers or grow- ing plants will convince most families that the serv- ices of a professional can be dispensed with to advantage. Most decorators fall into a rut. Their decorations for their table at Mrs. B.'s are pretty sure to be a copy, after a fashion, of those made for Mrs. A., and those for Mrs. C. will be quite similar. Mo- notony and sameness of effect result, while freshness is desired. The home decorator who does not " make a busi- 168 enable H)ecorat(on6 169 ness of it " will have new ideas, and the time to study out pretty combinations which will please with their charm of freshness and variety. The simplicity which will naturally characterize most of them will be a strong argument in their favor, when compared with the inartistic, unnatural " designs " so prevalent among professional works. The fact is, most floral designs, whether for table, party, or other use, degrade the flowers used, because their individuality is de- stroyed and general effect only is the aim. There is too much elaboration. This weakens, while in sim- plicity there is strength. Home decorations are gen- erally most pleasing because less material is used, consequently each plant or flower has the opportu- nity to display its charms fully, which is never the case where a great quantity is used. A good rule by which to judge any arrangement of flowers or plants, is to look at it as if it Avere a picture. Imagine it on canvas, and hanging on your wall. Looked at critically, in this way, the ordinary table decoration will take on a stiff, unnat- ural air far from pleasing. It will appear too formal and fussy. It resolves itself in the majority of cases into a show of bright colors simply. The individu- ality of each flower is lost, as if of secondary import- ance, while it should be primary. But if the arrange- ment on your table, when imagined into a picture on 170 JFlowers your wall, gives that pleasing impression which truly artistic work should, and you feel that, were it indeed a picture, you would not tire of it almost immedi- ately, then it is safe to conclude that it is a success. If you have a good flower piece to study, it will he of great benefit to j^ou. It will not furnish a pattern which you can reproduce, but it will suggest many things to 3^ou, and you will, in time, learn that effects secured by following suggestions are more satisfactory than mere copying of the design studied, be it ever so good. Wh}'-? Simply because the result of work wrought out by suggestion will have individuality in it, and that, in this case, is a synonym for originality. There is a certain nameless sometliing about original work that always attracts, though it be crude, while copied work seldom attracts much attention. It seems to sa}^ on the face of it that it is a reproduc- tion of some one's else idea — that, and nothing more — while the cruder original work, which can be wholly original, though resulting from suggestions, has the stamp of its owner's personality. One thing that will impress j^ou ver}^ forcibly in studying a flower piece is that while there seems to be a wealth of color and beauty on the canvas, this effect is secured by the use of what might be consid- ered very slight material. There will frequently be but four, five or half a dozen flowers, and a corre- a:able Bccorattons 171 spending amount of foliage, but the picture will have brightness enough in it to beautify and Ught up a room. You will be surprised at the effect secured by limited means when you come to analyze the picture. Surprised, because most likely you will have had an idea that half a dozen flowers were wholly inade- quate to the satisfactory decoration of a table. From this you will learn that the artist has depended on wealth of quality rather than of quantity, in his effort to make a pleasing picture, and when you fully realize the truth that lies in this fundamental principle of all true art, you will have outgrown the mischievous idea that one must have a large conservatory or a big bank account to be able to '' furnish forth a feast" in a satisfactory manner with flowers. Another thing you will learn from the picture- that the artist has not sought to improve on Nature in the arrangement of his flowers. He has simply imitated her method. He has been content to repro- duce faithfully. The flowers and their foliage have been painted as they grew, because he knew very well that any attempt on his part to re-arrange them would result in partial or complete failure. Most arrangements of flowers in vases are unsatisfactory, though the observer may not be quite able to deter- mine why. The colors may harmonize. There may 172 jflowers not be a sufficient quantity used lo crowd the mass into a jumble. Still the effect is not what it ought to be. Patient study will convince you that the un- pleasant effect results from the attempt to make everything very symmetrical. The flow er on this side must be balanced by a flower on that side. Foliage must be disposed in such a manner as to suggest a most impartial distribution of it ; all parts must fare alike. This is all wrong. Look at a branch of apple- blossoms. Could any artist improve on it? But when you study its arrangement you will see that here is a tuft of leaves, there a cluster of blossoms, perhaps a bit of branch leafless and flowerless. There is no symmetry resulting from an attempt of Nature to secure " balanced " effect, but a symmetry 4hat is the outgrowth of an artistic idea, or, more properl}^, instinct. Never try to arrange flowers in such a manner that they will look the same from all sides. Take your lessons of arrangement from Nature, who is the only decorative artist that makes no mis- takes. Those who undertake to improve upon her methods always produce something formal and labored. Nature believes in simplicity, and the result is spontaneity of effort. In following, so far as we are able, the methods of Nature, we are sure to do better work than we can ho^DC to by any other ^able Becorationa 173 means. We may not master all her little tricks of beauty in the arrangement of leaf or flower, but we can try to do so. In decorating a dinner-table, a great mistake is made in scattering the flowers used over a large portion of its surface, as is frequently done. It may be custom to do this — " the style," as people say — but it is not in harmony with artistic taste. It weakens the effect. Confine the floral display to one place on the table, and you have a central bit of color and beauty which dominates, and pleases the eye. But scatter flowers here and there about this central point, and the eye is confused and bewildered by the show\ There is no place in particular to concentrate and hold attention. It is " too much of a good thing," a veritable '' embarrassment of riches." But confine the flowers to the centre of the table, and the eye delights to linger on it. It seems the pivotal point of color about which the various accessories of beauty at the banquet revolve. The effect produced by the use of flowers on the table is greatly heightened or marred by the vessels in which they are placed. There should be a har- mony, not only of color, but of form. A rose is always beautiful, but it seems much more so when displayed in a pretty bowl than it does in a vase that forces it to assume an unnatural position. A lily is 174 3flower0 charming in a vase of crystal, but put it in a bowl of the rarest old blue china and it would appeal to you for pity rather than admiration. Carnations are extremely effective in slender vases that enable them to keep a natural position, but put them in a bowl that would admirably suit the rose, and they would take on a most dejected appearance. It is impossible to lay down any rule regarding the selection of vases of bowls for particular flowers, but it is well to study the effect of them in various receptacles, and from this one will soon learn which floAvers to use in this or that vase or bowl. He will find that there is a harmony in form and color w^hich it will be well to bear in mind in decorating the table or the mantel. Aim, always, to give each flower such a vessel as will allow it to retain its natural position to the greatest possible extent. If this is done, one great step in the direction of success is taken. I have frequently spoken of letting flowers arrange themselves. This they are perfectly able to do, if given the chance. Drop them into the bowl or vase provided for them, give it a shake, and in nine cases out of ten they will fall into positions more natural, therefore more graceful than those in which you could place them if you w^ere to work at them for a week. Any one who has ever tried to '' arrange " sweet peas, and failed, will appreciate the truth of (Table Decorations 175 this statement. But just drop the dainty things into a vase, and straightway they dispose themselves in a manner that delights you, though it vexes you some- what to see them taking on so easily the charm you had sought to give them. THE END ETIQUETTE By AGNES H. MORTON Author of " Letter Writing," "Quotations," etc. Cloth Binding 50 Cents SOME manuals of etiquette treat almost exclu- sively of *' state occasions." Their instructions are chiefly such as only people of large wealth and abundant leisure have any occasion to follow, and are of little more value than a fairy story in guiding the daily conduct of the average social circle. Another class of etiquette booI