lis r fJ^TERESTING ACCOUXT OF THE VOYAGES AND TRAVELS OF CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARKE, IN THE YEARS 1804 B, & 6« GIVING A FAITHFUL DESCRIFIION OF THE RIVER MISSOURI AXV ITS SOURCE-OF THE VARIOUS TRIBES OF INDIANS THROUGH WHICH THEY PASSED-MANNERS AND CUSTOMS-SOIL —CLIMATE— COMMERCE— GOLD AND SILVER MINES— ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. Interspersed I^Vith xery entertaining anecdotes, and a varietij of other useful and pleasing information, re- markably calculated to delight and instruct the readers. To which is added , i complete Dictionary of the Indian Tongue BY WILLMM FlSHERf Esq, "-'^ BALTIMOHB , ^ ^,o^' PRINTED AND PUBI^ISHED BY P. MAUBOj JV". 10, JSTorth Howard St^ 1813^ t- 5"^ 'a. . r ■ THE FOLLOWING RECOMMENDATION From the President of the United States to CongresSf explmns the nature, and hears ample testimony oj the value of this NOVEL AND ARDUOUS UNDERTAKING. " THE expedition of Messrs. Lewis and Clarke, for exploring the river Missouri, and the best communication from that to the Pacific Ocean, has had all the success wMch could be expected. They have traced the Missouri nearly to its source 5 descended the Columbia to the Pacific Ocean; ascer- tained with accuracy the geography of that inter- esting communication across the continent ; learned the character of the country, its commerce and in- habitants ; and it is but justice to say that Messrs. Lewis and Clarke, and their brave companions, have, by this arduojis service, deserved well of their country.. THO. JEFFERSON. MESSAGE, From the President to the Senate and House of Re^ % presentives of the United States. • ^ IN pursuance of a measure proposed to Con- gress by a message of January 18th, one thousand eight hundred and three, and sanctioned by their approbation for carryin.^ it into execution, captain Meriwether Lewis, of the first regiment of infantry. \vas appointed with a party of men, to explore the river Missouri, from its mouth to its source, and, crossing the highlands by the shortest portage, to ^^ .z.^^^^ ^^^^ "^^^^^ communication thence to the Facific Ocean; and Lieutenant Clarke was appoin- ted second m command. They were to enter into conterence with the Indian nations on the route^ with a View to the establisliment of commerce with them. They entered the Missouri, May fourteenth, one thousand eight hundred and four, and on the hrst ot November took up their winter quarters near the Mandan towns, 1,609 miles above the mouth of the river, in latitude 47« 21' 27'' north, and longitude 99'^ 24' 56'^ west from Greenwich. On the eight of April, one thousand eight hundred and tive, they proceeded up the river in pursuance of - the objects prescribed to them. A letter of the preceeding day, April 7th, from Captain Lewis, is herewith communicated. During his stay amone: the Mandans, he had been able to'lay down the Mis- soun, according to courses and distances taken on his passage up it, corrected by frequent observa- tions of longitude and latitude ; and to add to the actual survey of this portion of the river, a gene- ral map of the country between the Mississippi and Pacific, from the thirty-fourth to the fifty-fourth degrees of latitude. These additions* arc from in-, formation collected from Indians with whom he had the opportunities of communicatine-, during his journey and residence with them. "Copies of this map are now presented to both houses of Congress, MESSAGE. vii With these I communicate also a statistical view, procured and forw arded by him, of the Indian na- tions inhabiting' the territory of Louisiana, and the countries adjacent to its northern and western bor- ders ; of their commerce, and of other interesting^ circumstances respecting them. THO. JEFFERSON. IXTUOBUCTIOX. The advantages, that arise from tlie discoveries of unknown regions, arc too numerous to be men- tioned. They arise one after another in continual vsuccession. Geograpliy, Civilization, Humanity, and the Arts and Sciences, receive aid from them. From the knowledge of geography accrues the most intrinsic advantages of any Science extant. It not only feasts the imagination with the amuse- ment of novel descriptions ; but is tlie life of com- merce, whence the arts and sciences receive suc- cour, and a reciprocal exchange. It cannot fail of giving pleasure to the philanthro- pic mind, to behold implements of agriculture put in the hands of the uncivilized barbarian, to provide and protect him from the precarious reliance on the chase for a scanty sustenance. The time is not far distant, in all moral probability, when the un- cultivated wilds of the interior part of the continent, which is now only inhabited by tiie tawny sons of 'the forest, and the howling beasts of prey, will be ex- clianged for the hardy votaries of agriculture, who will turn those steril wildernesses into rich cultiva- ted and verdant fields. It may be suggested, that tlie intolerable sufferings of the Aborigines, from the impoi-tation of foreign diseases, and the more baneful influence of spirit- uous liquors, more tlian counterbalance the benefits that tliey receive from civilization. These objec- tions, it must be frankly confessed, are very pow- erful. But it is hoped, that vigilent measures will be pursued, by a government professed to be foun- ded on the principles of humanity and wisdom, to prohibit the introduction of spirituous liquours among them. The small pox has raged, when lit- tle or no communication was held with them. Pro- visions are already made to introduce vaccine in- oculation among them, which will prevent those horrid ravages which are mentioned in the coiu*se of the work. INTRODUCTION. ix * Curiosity is often excited to contemplate, that regions, upwards of three thousand miles inlengtli, bordering on a country inhabited by an inquisitive and enterprising people, who could avail them- selves of the benefit of a lucrative fur trade, should remain so long unexplored. Many impediments have retarded the tour, that has laid open to view a Country hitliei'to liidden from the knowledge of the civilized American. Attempts have been made, by the great disco- verer, captain Cook, to find a communication by water in the northern regions between the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean. Whether the two great oceans are joined together in those regions remains an un- certainty ; but the rigors of a frigid zone evinced, that though they joined it, it was impracticable to navigate between them. To travel among the Indians, is but too often thought the road that inevitably leads the unfortu- nate adventurer to an untimely death. The barba^ rity of tlie Indians in war is proverbial ; but in time of peace, hospitality and humanity are traits justly due to their character. It is a j udicious saying of an eminent traveller among them, that, "in time of peace no greater friends, in time of war no greater enemies." Before the acquisition of Louisiana by the United States, the jealous disposition of the Spaniards de- barred all adventures for discoveries from that quai'ter. These impediments would compel the discoveries of the western part of the continent, to be made by a voyage by the way of Cape Horn, which would be too long, arduous and expensive to entice the enter- prise. In the year 1789, the celebmted traveller Alexan- der Mackenzie embarked from Fort Chepewyan,in lat. 58, N. Ion. 110, W. from Greenwich, and with the greatest fortitude, under embarrassing and pe- rilous circumstances, he with assiduity explored the nojjthern region to nearly the 70th degree o£ north X INTRODUCTION. latitude, where obstruction by ice compelled him to return to Fort Cliepewyan. Thence he ascended tlie Peace River to its source, and thence to the Pa- cific ocean ; making many discoveries, which he judiciously narrated in his journal. J'/ie following statement of the Commerce of the Mis- sourU is made by a gentleman, which will suffici- ently show the advantages that arise from it. **The products which are drawn from the Missou* ri, are obtained from the Indians and hunters in ex- cliangc for merchandise. They may be classed ac- cording to the snbjoined table : D C D C Castor, - - ±228ilbs at 1 20 14737 20 Otters, - - 1267 skins 4 00 5068 00 Foxs -) PouhaFoxs, I 802 skins 50 401 00 Tigars Cats, J Raccoons, - 4248 skins 25 1062 00 Bears, black ' gray k yell. 2541 skins 2 00 5082 00 Puces, - - Buffaloes, - 1714 skins 3 00 5142 00 Dressed cow hs. 189 skins 1 50 283 50 Shorn deer sks. 96926tt)S 40 38770 4a Deer skins, > with hair, j 6381 skins 50 3190 50 Tallow & fat, S3±3lbs 20 1662 60 Bear's oil, - 2310 galls. 1 28 2572 00 Muskrats, Martens, S 77971 20 " The calculations in this table, drawn from the most correct accounts of the produce of the Mis- souri, during fifteen years, make the average of a common year 77,971 dollars. "On calculating, in the same proportion, the iNTRODUCTION. xi amount of merchandize entering the Missouri, and <2;iven in exchange fyv peltries, it is found that it amounts to ^61,250, including expenses, equal to one fourth of the value of the merchandize. *^ The result is, that this commerce gives an an- nual profit of Sl6,721, or about 27 per cent. " If the commerce of the Missouri, without en- couragement, and badly regulated, gives annually 30 great a profit, may we not rest assured that it will be greatly augmented, should government di- rect its attention to it ? It is also necessary to ob- serve, that the price of peltry, fixed by this table, is the current price in the Illinois : if it were regula- ted by the prices of London, deducting the expenses of transportation, the profit, according to our cal- culation, vrould be much more considerable. " If the Missouri, abandoned to savages, and presenting but one branch of commerce, yields such great advantages, in proportion to tlie capital era- ployed in it, what miglit we not hope, if some mer- f-hants or companies with lai'ge capital, and aided by a population extended along tlie boilers of the iiver, should turn their attention to other branches of the trade, which the^ might undertake (I dare 3ay) mth a certainty of success, v/hen v/e consider the riclies buried in its banks, and of which 1 have 'ndeavourcdii^. these notes to give an idea. ESTIMATE Of the product of the several Mne&» '* Mine a Burton - 550,000^3 mineral, estimated to {)roduce 66 2-3, is 336,666 2'Slhs ead, atS5, is 18,333 33 To which add $S0 (on 120,000/^5 manufacter- ed) to each thousand, is 3,600 00 21,933 S3 •< Old Mines, - 200,000?5s mi- neral, estimated to produce 66 2-3, is 133 333 1-3)65 lead at S5 per cwt, is - - - 6,666 67 ** Mine a la Mott, 200,000/65 lead, at $5 per cwt. is - - 10,000 00 " Suppose at all the other mines 30,000/&s lead, at S5, is - 1,600 00 i -18,166 67 Total amount, is jS40,100 00 " When the manufacture of white and red lead is put into operation, the export valuation will be con- siderably augmented on the quality of lead^" IRAVELS TO THE PACIFIC OCEA^y. ON the 14th of May, 1804, we embarked from St. Louis on the expedition. Having, previous to our setting out, provided ourselves with every thing requisite for the prosecution of the voyage, which consisted of large quantities of ammunition and jSre-arms, for the purpose of protecting us from the hostile attacks of the natives, and for procuring us food. We likewise took a lai'ge quantity of orna- ments, consisting of medals, trinkets, &c. for the purpose of gaining a favourable reception among the Indians, and to procure us such articles of use as our situation required. Our company, consisting of forty -three, were generally divided into two companies ; the one for hunting, who travelled by land, and overtook the other party at night, who were in our water con- veyance, which consisted only of two small perogues and a batteau. Larger vessels would obstruct us in ascending the Missouri near its^ source. We were compelled to encamp by night on the banks of the river ; our vessel being too light to sail except by day. The great object of our expedition was to aid Commerce and Population, The country bordering on the Missouri produces immense quantities of fur, which can be purehased of the Indians for a mere trifle, and which can be easily transported for the head of the Missouri to the Columbia river with very little expense, consi- li NEW TRAAnbiLb dering the low rate that horses can be purchased from the Snake Indians (who inhabit the coiintr> at the head of the Missouri) to transport tliem tu the Columbia river, and thence to China by a very short route. This trade would give employment to an ini- mense number of inhabitants, and the country is sufficiently luxuriant for the population of an im- mense colony. MISSOURI. The Missouri is already ranked among tlic great- est rivers. It is an object ofastonishment to the wliole world. The uninformed man admii-es its rapidity, its lengthy course, salubrity of its waters, and is astonished at its colour, while tlie reflecting mind admires the innumerable I'iches scattered on its banks, and foreseeing tlie future, beholds already this I'ival of the Nile, flowing through countries as fertile, as populous, and as extensive as those of Egypt. A traveller, howevei* intelligent he way be, can give but a faint idea of the innumerable riclies ac- cumulated on its banks. This sketch will barely point out the most important. The Missouri joins the Mississippi five leagues above the town of St. Louis, about the 40tli degree of north latitude. It is necessary to observe, tliat, after uniting with the Mississippi, it flows through a space of 1200 miles before it empties itself into' the Gulf of Mexico. As this part of its course is well known, I shall speak of the Missouri only. I as- cended about six hundred leagues, without perceiv- ing a diminuation either in its width or rapidity. — The principle rivers wliieh empty into the Missouii ai^ as you ascend, the Gasconade, the river of the Osages, the two Charatunis, the Great river, the river Des Canips, Nichinen, Batoney,, tlie Great -and Little Nimaha, the river Plate, fe river des Sioux, and L'Eau Qui Court. AMONG THE INDIANS. 15 As far as twenty -five leai^ues above its junction with the Mississippi, are to be found different set- tlements of American families, viz. at Bonhomme, and Feme Osage, &c. ; beyond this its banks are inhabited only by savage nations — the Great and Lit- tle Osages, settled one hundred and twenty leagues on the river of that name ; the Canips, the Ottos, the Panis, the Loups or Panis Mahas, the Mahas, the Poukas, the Ricaras, the Mandanes,the Sioux ; the last nation is not fixed on the banks of the Mis- souri, but habitually goes thereto hunt. Tlie banks of the Missouri are alternately woods and pairies ; it is remarked that the higher you as- cend this river, the more common are tliese pairies, and they seem to increase every yeai* by the fires which are kindled every autumn by tlie savages or white hunters, either by chance or the design of fa- cilitating their hunting. The waters of the Missouri are muddy, and con- tain throughout its course a sediment of veiy fine sand, which soon precipitates; but this circum- stance, which renders them disagreeable to the sight, takes nothing from their salubrity. Experience has proved, that the waters of tlie Missouri are more wholesome than tiiose of the Ohio, and the upper Mississippi. The livers and sti'cams, which empty into the Missouri, below the river Plate, are clear and limpid, but above this river, they are as muddy as those of tJie Missouri itself. This is occasioned by beds of sand, or hills of a very fine ^vhite earth, whence they take rise. The bed of the Missouri is obstructed with banks, sometimes of sand and sometimes gravel, whicli fre- quently change their place, and consequently ren- der tlie navigation always uncertain. Its course i^ generally west by nortJi-west. To give a precise idea of the incalculable riches scattered on the banks of the Missouri, would re- quire unbounded knowledge. The Hats are covered with huge trees ; thcIJard or poplai'. The sycamore, out of one piece of which B 16 NEW TRAVELS are made canoes, which carry ahiiost 18,000 cwt. The maple which affords the iidiahitants an agreea- hie and Avliolesome sugar. I'hc wild chei'ry tree, and the red and hlatk walnut, so useful in joiners' work. The red and white elm, necessary to cart- wrights. The trincanthoSf which, when well trim- med, forms impenetrahlc hedges. The water wil- loAV, tlie white and red mulherry tree, ^c. &c. On the shores are found, in abundance, the white and hlack oak, proper for every kind of shipwrights' and cai'])enters' work. The pine, so easily worked, and on the stony mountains the durable cedai*. It would be impossible to detail all the species of trees, even those unknow n in other counti'ies, and the use that can be made of them, of which w^ are still ignoi'ant. The plants are still more numerous : I will pass lightly over this article, for the w ant of sufficient botanical knowledge. The Indians are well ac- quainted with the virtues of many of them ; they make use of them to heal their wounds and to poison tlicir arrows ; they also make use of different kinds of Saxwyanv.es; to dye different colours ; they have one which is a certain and prompt cure for the vene- real disease, Tht" lands on tlie l)orders of tlie Missouri ai'c ex- cellent, and when cultivated ai*e capable of yielding abundantly all the productions of the temperate, Ami oven some of the warm climates ; wheat, maize and every species of grain, Irish potatoes, and excel- lent sweet potatoes ; hemp seems hei-e to be an indi- genous plant ; even cotton succeeds, though not as well as in more southerly cmmtries ; its cultui*e, however, yields a real advantage to the inhabitants settled oil the banks of the Missouri, who find in a crop off a field of about two acres sufficient for the want of tiieir fiimilies. The natural prairies are a great resource being of themselves excellent pasturages, and facilitating the labours of the man who is just settledj, and wiio can thus enjoy, with little labour, from the first AMONG THE INDIANS. 17 year, a considerable crop. Clay fit for making uricks is very common : there is also Fayance clay, and every species of clay, which, in the opinion of intelli.^ent persons, is the real koaolin to which the porcelain of China owes the whole of its reputation. There are found on the borders of the Missouri many springs of salt water of every kind, which will be more than sufficient for the consumption of the country,, when it shall become inhabited. Salt-petre is found here in great abundance, in numbeness caves, which are met with along the banks of the river. The stones arc generally calcareous and gates. There is one found also, which I believe to be pecu- liar to the banksof the Missouri. It is of a blood- red colour, compact, soft under the chisel, and hai'd- ens in the air, and is susceptible of a most beautiful polish. The Indians make use of it for their calu- mets ; but from the extent of its layers it might be easily emplbyed in more important works. They have also quarries of marble, of which we only know the colour 5 they are streaked with red. One quarry is well known and easily worked, namely, a species of plaster, which we ai'c assured is of the same nature as that of Paris, and of which the United States make a great use : we also found voU canic stones, which demonstrate the ancient exis- tence of unknown volcanoes. We are confirmed in the belief, that there were Yolcanoes in some of their mountains, by the intel- Ugence that we received from the Indians ; who in- formed us, "that the Evil Spirit was mad at Red ** people, and caused the mountains to vomit fire, ** sand, gravel, and large stones, to ten-ify and de- V stroy them ; but the Good Spirit had compassion ** on them, and put out the fire, chased the Evil ** Spirit out of the mountains, and left tliem unhurt^ ** but when they returned to their wickedness, the ** Great Spirit had permitted the Evil Spirit to re- ** turn to the mountains again, and vomit up fire ; " but on their becoming good and making sacrifices. ±H NEW TRAVELS ** the Great Spirit chase4 away the Evil Spirit from ** disturbing them, and for forty snows* he had not ** permitted him to return." The short stay we have generally made among the savage nations, has prevented us from making those researches which would have supplied us with more extensive information, respecting the various mines found on the borders of the Missouri ; we know with certainty, only those of iron, lead and itosd; there is however, no doubt, but there are some of tin, of copper, of silver, and even of gold, according to the account of the Indians, who have found some particles or dust of these metals either on the surface of the earth, or on the banks of small torrents. I consider it a duty at the same time to give an idea of the salt mines and the salines, which are found in the same latitude on the branches of the river Arkansas. At about 300 miles from the vil- lage of the Great Osages, in a westerly dii'cction, after having passed several branches of the river Arkansas, we find a flat surrounded by hills of an immense extent, and about 15 leagues in diameter ^ the soil is a black sand, very fine, and so hard that the horses hardly leave a trace. During a warm and dry season, there exhales from this flat, va- pours, which after being condensed, fall on this black sand, and cover it with an incrustation of salt, very wliite and fine, and about lialf an inch thick ; and rains destroy this phenomenon. At about 18 miles from tliis flat, there are found mines of genuine salt, near the surface of the earth : the Indians who are well acquainted with them, are obliged to use levers, to break and raise it. At a distance of about 15 leagues from the flat, of which we have just spoken, and in a southerly direction, there is a second mine of genuine salt of the same nature as the other. These two mines difier only in cployr ; the first borders on a blue, the * Forty Fears. AMONG THE INDIANS. 19 second approaches a red* In short much further south, and still on the branches of the Arkansas, is a saline, which may be considered as one of the most interestinji^ phenomena in nature* On the declivity of a small hill there are five holes, about a foot and a half in diameter, and two in depth, always full of salt water, without ever overflowing. If a person were to draw any of this salt water, the hole would immediately fill itself; and about ten feet lower, there flows, from tliis same hill, a large stream of pure and sweet water. If tills country was peopled, the working of these genuine salt mines would be very easy, by means of the river Arkansas. Tliis species of salt is found by experience to be far preferable to any other for salting provisions. Should these notes, imperfect and without order, but in every respect founded on truth, and observa- tions made* by myself, cite the curiosity of men of intelligence, capable of investigating the objects which they have barely suggested, I do not doubt but that incalculable advantages would result to the United States, and especially to the district of Lou- isiana. It is impossible to give an exact account of the Peltries, wliich are brought down the Mississippi, as thcv are immediately transported to Canada, withou't passing any port of this country ; we can obtain a ti-ue statement only from the settlements on the Lakes. It is b ut a short time since the Red river has been explored. After leaving the river Des Mones, the Fur trade from the Upi>er Missouri is carried on entirely by British houses, and almost the whole of the Furs which ai^e obtained from the other Indian traders, are also sent to Canada, where they commaiid much higher prices than at New-Orleans ; where, in fact, there is no demand for them. It is als) necessary to observe, that the further north we go, the grea- t*>r the value of the peltri-s. It is but a few years filnc^ peltries have bei'n exported froui America, by B 2 29 NEW TRAVELS way of the Ohio. It is to be desired, that the eas^ tern paii; of America should encourage this expor- tation, by raising the prices of peltries to nearly those of Canada. The country at the head of the Missouri and Co- lumbia river bears a great similarity ; being cold and very sterile, except in pasturage only. At the foot of the mountain, at the head of the Missouri, lives a tribe of Indians, called Serpentine, or Snake Indians ; who are the most abject and miserable of the human race, having little besides the features of human beings. They live in a most \vi*etched state of poverty, subsisting on berries and fish ; the former they manufacture into a kind of bread, which is very palatable, but possesses very little nutritious quali- ty. The only article of value which they possess is horses, in which the country abounds, and in very severe winters they are compelled to subsist on them, for the want of a better substitute for food. I'hey are a very harmless inoffensive people ; when we first made our appearance among them, they were filled with terror, many of them fled, while the others wlio remained, were in tears, but were soon pacified by tokens of friendship, and by presents of beads, kc, which soon convinced them of our friendly disposition. The Snake Indians are in their stature crooked, which is a peculiarity, as it docs not characterize any other tribe of Indians, that came within the compass of our observation. To add to this defor- mity, they have high cheek bones, large light co- loured eyes, and arc very meagre, which gives them a frightful aspect. With an axe we could purchase of them a good horse, we purcliased twenty-seven from them, which did not cost more than one hundred dollars ; which will be a favourable circumstance for trans- porting fur over to the Columbia-rive. At tlie head of the Columbia river, resides a tribe by the name PaUotepaUorSf or Flatheads ; the latter AMONG THE INDIANS. 2i name they derive from an operation, wliich renders the top of the head flat; which is performed while they ai*e infants, when the bones of the cranium are soft, and elastic, and are easily brought to the de- sired deformity. The operation is performed by tying boards, hewn to a proper shape for the pur> pose, which they compress on the head. In per- forming this singular operation, many infants, I think without doubt, lose their lives. The more they get the head misshapen, it is considered with them the greater beauty. They are very kind and hospitable people. We left in "charge with them when descended the Colum- bia river, our horses, which they kept safe. They likewise found where we had concealed our ammu- nition in the earth ; and had they not been an ho- nest people, and preserved it safe, our lives must have been inevitably lost; they delivered up the whole, without wishing to reserve any, or to receive for it a compensation. Tliey, like tlie Snake Indians, abound in hoi^ses, which subsist in the winter season on a shrub, whicli they call evergreen: which bears a large leaf, which is tolerably nutritious ; they likewise feed upon the side of hills whicli gush out small spi'ings of water, which melt the snow, and affords j)asture. In this manner our horses subsisted while going over the rocky mountains. The country inhabited hj the Snake and Flathead Indians produces but very little game. Captain Clarke kept an account of the distances of places from one to another; which were not kept by myself, for which reason I hope it will be a sufficient apology for subjoining two of his state- mentSr NEW TRAVELS LETTER FROM CAPTAIN CLARKE TO HIS EXCEL- LENCY GOVERJVOR HARRISON. Foi-t Mandan, April 2(1. '' Dear Sir, *^ BY tlie return of a party Avhich we sent from tliis place with despatches, I do myself the pleasure of i^iving you a summary view of the Missouri, &c. ** In ascending" as high as the Kansas river, which is three hundred and thirty -four miles up the Mis- souri : on the south west side, we met a strong cur- rent, whicli was from five to seven miles an hour ; the hottom is extoisive, and covered with timher, the higli country is interspersed with rich handsome prairies, well watered, and ahound in deer and bears ; in ascending as high as the river Plate, we met a current loss rapid, not exceeding six miles an hour. In this distance we passed several small rivers on eacli side, which water some finely diver- sified country, principally prairies, as between Yin- cennes and Illinois, the bottoms continue wide, and covered with timber ; tliis river is about six thou- sand yards wide, at the mouth, not navigable ; it heads in the rocky mountains, with the North ri- ver, and Yellow Stone river, and passes through an open country-. Fifteen leagues up this river tlie Ottoes and thirty Missouries live, in one village, and can raise two hundred men ; fifteen leaglies higher up, the Paneas and Panea Republicans live in one village, and can raise seven hundred men. Up the wolf fork of this river, Papia Louisis .live in one village, and can raise two hundred and eighty men; these Indians., have partial ruptures fre- quently. River Plate is six hundred and thirty miles pu the Missouri, on the south west side. Here we find the Antelope or (ioat. The next river of size as- cending, is tlie Stone river, commonly called by the Ingaseix, Little river Desirous ; it takes its rise in lake Dispice, fifteen miles from the river Deinoir, AMONG THE INDIANS. 24 and is sixty-four yards wide ; here commences the Sioux country. The next by note is the Big Sioux river, which heads with the St. Peters, and waters of lake Winnepie, in some high wooded country. About ninety miles still higher, the river Jacque falls on the same side ; and about one hundred yards wide. This river heads with the waters of lake Winnepie, at no great distance east from the place, the head of the river Demon in Pelican lake, be- tween the Sioux rivers and St. Peters. The coun- try on both sides of the Missouri, from the river Plate to tliat place, has very much the same ap- pearance; extensively fertile plains, containing but little timber and that little, principally confined to the river bottoms and streams. The country east of this place, and off, from the Missouri as low as Stone river, contains a number of small trees, many of which are said to be so much impregnated with glauber salt as to produce all its effects ,v cer^ tain it is that the water in the small streams from the hill below on the south west side possesses this quality. y About the river Jacque Bruff, the country con- tains a great quantity of mineral, cobalt, cinabar, alum, copperas, and several other things -, the stone coal which is on the Missouri is very indifferent. Ascending fifty-two miles above the Jacque, the ri- ver Quicum falls on the south west side of this river, is one thousand and twenty-six miles up, one hun- dred and fifty yards v/ide, not navigable ; it heads !" Ii ^. ^ mountains which run nearly paralhd to the Missouri from about the head of the Kansas river, and ends south west of this place. Quicum waters a broken country one hundred and twentv- two miles, by water, higher. White river falls m on the south west side, and is thi^ee hundred yards wide, and navigable, as all tlie other streams are. Which are not particularly mentioned. Tiiis river heads m some small lakes, short of the Black moun- lams. 1 lie Mahan and Pocan nations rove on the fteads ol this river and the Quicum, and can raise 2i NEW TllAYELS two hundred and fifty men ; tliey were very nume- rous a few years ago, but the small pox and the Jsivoux Iiavc redueed them to their present state. — I'he Sivoiix i?0Ksess the south west side of the Mis- souri above White river, one hundred and thirty- two niik s hi.^;hci', and on the west side. Teton river fal^ into it; it is small, and lieads in the open plains ; here we met a large hand of Sioux, and the stcond whieh we iiad seen, ealledTetons ; those are rascals, and may be justly termed the pirates of the Missouri. They made two attempts to stop us. They are subdivided, and stretching on the river near to this place, having reduced the Racres and Mandans, and drove them from the country they now occupy. "The 8ioux bands rove in the country to the Mississippi. About forty-seven miles above the Teton river, the Chyanne river falls in from the south-west, four thousand yards wide; is navigable to the Black mountains, in which it takes its rise, in the third range. Several bands of Indians, but little knov/n, rove on the heads of this and the river Plate ; and are stated to be as follows 5 Choaenne, three hundred men ; Staetons, one hundred ; Ga- nenaviech, four liUndred ; Cayanwa and Wetahato, two hundred; Cahata, seventy; Detame, thirty, Memesoon, filty ; Castahana, one thousand tliree hundred men. It is probable that some of those bands are the remains of the Padoucar nation. At fourteen hundred and forty miles up the Missouri, (and a short distance above two handsome rivers, which take tlieir rise in the Black mountains) the Kicaraslive in three villages, and are the remains of ten difl'erent tribes of Pane as, who hiive been i-educed and drove from their country lower down by the Sioux ; their number is about five hundred men ; they raise corn, beans, &c. and aj^pear tViendly and well dispovsed. They were at w ar with the nations of this neighbourhood, and we have bi-ought about peace. Between the Re- cars and this place, two rivers fall in on the south- AMONG THE INDIANS. 25 west and one on the north-east, not very long, and take their rise in the open countrj^ Tliis country abounds in a j^reat variety of wild aninials, but a few of w hich the Indians take ; many of these ani- mals are uncommon in the United States, such as w liite, red, and ffrey bears ; lon.e; eared mules, or black tail deer, (black at the end of the tail only) lari^e hare, antelope or Goat; the red fox; tlic j^round pranrie dogs, (who burrow^ in tlic ground) tlie braroca, whicli has a head like a dog, and the si^e of a small dog ; the w bite brant, magpie, cal- umet, cage, ^cc. and many otliers arc said to inha- bit tiie rocky mountains. '**I have collected tlie following accounts of the rivers and country in advance of this, to w it : two days' march, in advance of tliis, the Little Missour- ri falls on tlie south side, and heads at the north- west extremity of the Black mountains ; six days' march further, a large river joins the Missouri, affording as much water as the main river ; this river is rapid without a fall, and navigable to the Rocky mountains, its brandies head with the Ava- ters of the river Plate; the country in advance is sftid to be broken. *• The trade of the nations at this place is from tlie north west, and Hudson's Bay establishments, on the Assinneboin river, distant about one hundred and fitly miles ; those traders are near- ly at open war with each other, and better cal- culated to destroy than promote the happiness of those nations to which they have latterly extended their trade, and intend to form an establishment near this place in the cours c of this year. ** Your most ** Obedient servant, Wm. CLARK, 26 NEW TRAVELS XETTEH FROM CAPT. CLARK, TO HIS BROTHER. St. Louis, Sept. 1806. " Bear Brother, ** We arrived at this place at twelve o'clock to-day, from the Pacific ocean, where we remained during the last winter, near the entrance of the Columhia river. This station we left on \:7th of March last, and should have reached St. Louis early in August, had we not been detain- ed by the snow, which barred our passage across the Rocky mountains until the 24th of June. In returning through those mountains, we divided ourselves into several parties, digressing from the rout by which we went out, in order the more effectually to explore the country, and discover the most practicable route which does exist across the Continent by the way of the Missouri and Co- lumbia rivers; in this we were completely suc- cessful, and have therefore no hesitation in declar- ing, that, such as nature has permitted, we have discovered the best route which does exist across tlic continent of ISorth America in that direction^ Suclris that by way of the Missouri to the foot of the rapids, below the great falls of that river, a dis- tance of two thousand five hundred and seventy - five miles, thence by land, passing by the Rocky mountains to a navigable part of the Kooskooske three hundred and forty ; and with the Kooskooske seventy-tliree miles. Lewis's river one hundred and fifty -four miles, and the Columbia four hundred and thirteen miles to the Pacific ocean, making tlie total distance from the confluence of the Missouri and Missis>ippi to the discharge of the Columbia into the Pacific ocean, three thousand five hundred and fifty-five miles. The navigation of the Mis- souri may be deemed good; its difficulties arise from its falling banks, tlie timber imbedded in the mud of its channel, its sand-bars, and steady ra- pidity of its current, all which may be overcome AMONG THE INDIANS. 27 by the necessary precaution. The passage by land of three liundred and forty miles, from the falls of the Missouri to the Kooskooke, is tlie most formidable part of the tract proposed across the Continent. Of this distance, two hundred miles is along a good road, and one hundred and forty miles over tremendous mountains, which for sixty miles is covered with eternal snows. A passage over these mountains is, liowever, practicable fi'om the latter part of June to the last of September, and the cheap rate at which horses are to be ob- tained from the Indians of the Rocky momitains, and west of them, reduces the expenses of traiiS- portation over this portage to a mere tridc. Tiie navigation of the Kooskooske, Lewis's river, and the Columbia, is safe and good, from the first of April to the middle of August, by making three portages on the latter river ; the first of which, in descending, is twelve hundred paces at the falls of Columbia, two hnndred and sixty one miles up that river ; the second, of two miles, at the long narrow, six miles below tlie falls ; and a third, also of two miles, at tlie great rapids, sixty-five miles still lower down. The tide flows up the Columbia one hundred and eighty-tliree miles and within seven miles of the great rapids. Large sloops may with safety ascend as higli as the tide water, and vessels of three hundred tons burthen reacli the entrance of the Multnomali river, a large Southern branch of the Columbia, whicli takes its rise on the confines of New Mexico, witli the Calle- I'ado and Apostle's rivers, discharging itseli into the Columbia, one hundred and twenty -five miles from its entrance into tJie Pacific ocean. I con- sider this track across the Continent of immense advantage to the fur trade, as all the furs collected in nine tenths of the most valuable fur country in America, may be conveyed to tlie moutli of the Co- lumbia, and shipped from thence to the East Indies, by the first of August in each year ; and w ill of course reach Canton earlier than the furs which C ■:s jSEW travels are annually exported from Montreal arrive in Great Britain. " In our outwaiMi bound passage we ascended to the foot of the rapids below tlie great falls of the Missouri, where we arrived on the lith of June, 1805. Not having met with any of the natives of the Roeky mountains, we were of course ignorant of the passes by land, which existed through those mountains to the Columbia river : And had we even known the rout, we wei'c destitute of horses, which would have been indispensably necessary to enable us to transport tlie requisite quantity of ammunition and other stores to ensure the remain- ing part of our voyage down the Columbia; we tlierefore determined to navigate the Missouii as far as it was practicable, or unless we met with some of the natives, from whom we could obtain horses and information of the country* Accord- inglv, w« undertook a most laborious portage at the falls of the Missouri, of eighteen miles, whicli wc elfectcd with our canoes and baggage by the 3d of July. From hence, ascending the Missouri, we penetrated the Rocky mountains at the distance of seventy-one miles above tlie upper part of the por- tage, and penetrated as far as the three forks of that river, a distance of one hundred and eighty miles further. Here the Mis-souri divides into three nearly equal branches at the same point. The two largest brandies are so nearly of the same dignitv, tliat we did not conceive that either of them could with propriety retain tlie name of the Missouri, and therefore called these streams Jef- ferson's, Madison's and Gallatin's rivers. The eonliuenee of those rivers is two thousand, eight liundi-ed and fifty-eight miles from the mouth of the Missouri, by the meanders of that river. Wc ai-iived at tli« three forks of the Missouri on the ^7th of July* Not having yet been so fortunate as to meet with the natives, altiiough I had previously made several excursions for that purpose, we wei-e compelled still to continue our route by water. AMONG THE INDIANS. 29 " The most northerly of the three forks, that to which we had given the name of Jefferson's river, was deemed the most proper for our purpose, and we accordingly ascended it two hundred and forty- eight miles to tlie upper forks, and its extreme navigable point ; making the total distance to which we had navigated the waters of the Mis- souri three thousand and ninety -six miles, of which four hundred and twenty-nine lay within tlie Rocky Mountains. On the morning of the 17th of August, 1805, I arrived at the forks of Jeffei^on's river, where I met captain Lewis, who had previously penetrated, with a party of three men, to the w a- ters of the Columbia, discovered a band of the Shos- hone nation, and had found means to induce thirty- five of their chiefs and warriors to accompany him to that place. From these people we learned that the river on which they resided was not navigable, and that a passage through the mountains in that direction was impracticable. Being unwilling to confide in this unfavourable account of tlie natives, it was concerted between captain Lewis and my- self, that one of us should go forward immediately with a small party, and explore the river ,• while the other in the interim should lay up the canoes at that place, and engage the natives with their horses to assist in transporting our stores and baggage to their camp. Accordingly I set out the next day, passed the dividing mountains between the waters of the Missouri and Columbia, and de- scended the river which I call the East Eork of Lewis's river, about seventy miles. Finding tliat the Indian's account of the country in the direction of this river, was correct, I returned and joined captain Lewis on the 29th of August, at the Shos- hone camp, excessively fatigued, as you may sup- pose ; having passed mountains almost inaccessible, and compelled to subsist on berries during tha greater part of my route. We now purchased twenty-seven horses of these Indians, and hired a guide, who assured us that he could in fifteen 30 NEW TRAVELS days take us to a large river in an open country -, west of these mountains, by a route some distance to the north of the river on which they lived, and that by wliich the natives west of the mountains visit the plains of the Missouri, for the purpose of hunting the buffaloe. Every preparation being made, we set forward with our guide on the 31st of August, through those tremendous mountains in which we continued until the 22d of September, before we reached the lower country beyond them ; on our w ay we met with the Olelachshoot, a band of the Tuchapaks, from whom we obtained an ac- cession of seven horses ; and exchanged eight or ten othei's. This proved of infinite service to us, as we were compelled to subsist on horse beef about eight days before we reached the Koos- kooske. ^* During our passage over those mountains, we suffered every thing which hunger, cold, and fa- tigue could impose ; nor did our difficulties, with respect to provisions, cease on our arrival at the Kooskooske ; for although the Pallotepallors, a nu- merous nation inhabiting that country, were ex- tremely hospitable, and for a few trifling articles furnished us with an abundance of roots and dried salmon, the food to which they were accustomed, we found that we could not subsist on these articles, and almost all of us grew sick on eating them ; we were obliged, therefore, to have recourse to the flesh of liorses and dogs, as food, to supply the de- ficiency of our guns, wliicli produced but little meat, as game was scarce in the vicinity of our camp on tlie Kooskooske, w here we were compelled to remain, in order to construct our perogues, to descend the river. At this season the salmon ai*e meagre, and form but indifferent food. While we remained here, I was myself sick for several days, and my friend captain Lewis suffered a severe in- disposition. ♦* Having completed four perogues and a small canoe, we gave our horses in charge to the Pallo- AMONG THE INDIANS. 31 tepallors until we returned, and on the 7 th of Oc- tober, re-embarked for the Pacific ocean. AVe descended by tlie route I liave ah*eady mentioned. The water of the river being low at this season, we experienced much difficulty in descending : we found it obstructed by a great number of difficult and dangerous rapids, in passing of which our pero- gues several times filled, and the men escaped narrowly with their lives. However, this difficulty does not exist in high water which happens within the period which I have previously mentioned. We found the natives extremely numerous, and gene- rally friendly, though we have on several occasions owed our lives and the fate of the expedition to our number, which consisted of thirty-one men. On the 17th of November we reached the ocean, where various considerations induced us to spend the winter ; we therefore searched for an eligible situation for that purpose, and selected a spot on the south.side of a little river, called by the natives JVetnl, which discharges itself at a small bar on the south side of the Columbia, and fourteen miles within point Adams. Here we constructed some log houses, and defended them with a common stockade work. This place we called Fort Clat- sop, after a nation of that name who were our nearest neighbours. In this country we found an abundance of elk, on which we subsisted princi- pally during the last winter. We left Fort Clat- sop on the 27th of March. On our homeward bound voyage, being much better acquainted wdth the country, we were enabled to take such precau- tions as in a great measure secured us from the want cf provisions at any time, and greatly lessened our fatigues, when compared with those^ to which we were compelled to submit in our outward bound journey. We have not lost a man since we left Mandans, a circumstance which, I assure you is a pleasing consideration to me. As I shall shortly be with you, and the post is now waiting, I deem C2 33 JNEW TRAVELS. it unnecessary here to attempt minutely to detail the occurrences of tlic last eighteen months. ** I am, ^:c. *' Your affectionate brotlier, Wm. CLARKE. THE treatment tliat we received from the In- dians, during nearly three years that we were with them, was very kind and hospitable ; except the ill treatment that we received ironi the Sioux tribe, who several times made attempts to stop us ; and we should have been massacred, had we not terri- fied tliem from their murderous intention, by threat- ening tisem with the small pox, in such a manner as would kill the \n hole tribe of them. Nothing could be moi'C horrible to tliem, than the bare men- lion of tliis fatal disease. It was first communicated to them by the Americans, and spread from tribe to tribe with an unabated pace, until it extended it- self across the continent. ** This fatal infection, spread around with a bane- l\d rapidity, which no flight could escape, and with a fatal effect tliat nothing could resist. It destroy- ed, with its pestilential breath, whole families and tribes; and the horrid scene presented to those wlm had the melancholy and effecting opportunity of beholding it, a combination of the dead and dy- ing, and such as to avoid the horrid fate of their friends around them, prepare tions. They esteem a beard exceedinglv unbecomine:, and take great pains to get rid of if; nor is there ever any to be perceived on their faces, excei)t when they grow old and become inattentive to their ap- pearance. Every crinose excrescence on other parts ol their body is lield in as great abhorrence bv them, and both sexes are equally careful to extirpate it, in winch they often employ much time. Tlie Pallotepallors, Serpentine, Mandan, and other interior tribes of Indians, pluck them out with bent pieces of hard wood, formed into a kind of nip- pers, made for that purpose ,• while those that have a communieation with Americans or Europeans procure from them wire, wJiich they ins:eniousiy make into an instrument resembling a scre\\ , which will take so firm a hold of the beard, that with a sudden twitch they extirpate them out by the roots, when considerable blood never fails to flow. The dress of the Indians, varies according to the tribe tliat they belong to ; but in general, it is very commodious, not to encumber them in pursuing: the chase, or tlieir enemy; tliose that inhabit the Mis- souri, I have often seen, in cold weather, witfiout any apparel to screen themselves from the incle- mency ot the weather. The lower rank of the Pal- lotepallors and Clatsops, wearnothin-in the sum- mer season, but a small garment about their hips, which is eituer manufactured out of bark or skins and which would vie with, if not excel, any Euro- 38 NEW TRAVELS pean manufacture, being diversified with different colours, which give it a gay appearance. Their kings are generally dressed in i^obcs that are made out of small skins, (which takes several hundred for a garment) of different colours, neatly tanned, which they hang loosely over their shoulders. In deep snows they wear skins, which entirely cover their legs and feet, and almost answer for breeches: being held up by strings tied to tlic lower part of the waist. Their bodies in the win- ter season, are covered witli different kinds of skin, which are tanned with the fur on, which they wear next to the skin. Those of the men, who wish to appear more gay than others, pluck out tlie greatest part of their hair, leaving only small locks as fancy dictates, on which are hung differ- ent kinds of quills, and feathers of elegant plumage superbly painted. The Sioux and Osages, who traffic with the Americans, wear some of our ap- parel, such as sliirts and blankets ; the former they cannot bear tied at the wristbands and collar, and the latter they throw loosely over their shoul- ders. Their chiefs dress very gay; about their heads they wear all kinds of ornaments that can well be bestowed upon them, which are curiously wrought, and in the winter long robes of the rich- est fur that trail on the gi*ound. In the summer there is no great peculiarity, only what the higher rank wear is excessively orna- mented. The Indians paint their heads and faces yellow, gi*een, red and black ; wliich they esteem very or- namental. They also paint themselves wlien they go to war; but the method they make use of on this occasion differs from that which they wear merely as a decoration. The Chipa7vay young men, wlio are emolous of excelling tlieir companions in finery, slit the out- ward rim of both ears; at the same time they take care not to separate tlicm entirely, but leave the flesh thus cut, still untouched at both extremities ; AMONG THE INDIANS. 39 around tliis spungy substance, from tlie upper to the lower part, they twist brass wire till the weight draws the amputated rim in a bow of five or six inches diameter, and draws it down almost to the shoulder. This decoration is esteemed gay and becoming. It is also a custom among them to bore their no- ses, and wear in them pendants of different sorts. Shells are often wore, which when painted are reckoned very ornamental. The dress of the Indians who inhabit the borders of Louisiana is for their legs, a kind of stocking, either of skins or cloth ; these are sewed up as much as possible in the shape of their leg, so as to admit of being drawn on and off; the edges of the stuff of which they are composed are left annexed to the seams, and hang loose about the breadth of a hand ; and this part which is placed on the out- side of tlie leg, is generally ornamented with lace and ribbons, and often with embroidery and porcu- pine quills variously coloured. Tlie hunters from Louisiana find these stockings much more conve- nient than any others. Their shoes are made of the skins of deer or elk ; these after being dressed with the hair on, are cut into shoes, and fashioned so as to be easy to their feet and convenient for walking. The edges around the ankle are decora- ted with pieces of brass or tin, fixed around a leather string about an inch long, which being placed very tliick, make a delightsome noise when they walk or dance. Tlie dress of the women in the summer season consists only of a peticoat that does not reach down to their knees. In the winter they wear a shift, made of skins which answers a very good purpose when they stand erect, as it is sufficiently low, but when they bend over they often put modesty to the blush. Their feet and legs are covered simi- larly to the other sex. Most of the female Indians who dwell on the west side of the Mississippi, near its confluence 40 NEW TRAVELS with the Missouri, decorate their heads hy enclo- sing their hair in plates of silver ; it is a costly or- nament and is made use of by the highest rank only. Those of the lower rank make use of bones, which they manufacture to resemble that of silver. The silver made use of, is formed into thin plates of about four or five inches broad, in several of which they confine their hair. That plate which is near- est the head is of considerable width ; the next narrower, and made so as to pass a little way un- der the other, and gradually tapering till they get to a very ineonsiderahle magnitude. This proves to be of great expense, for they of- ten wear it on the back side of the head, extending to the full length of their hair, which is commonly very long. The women of every nation generally paint a spot against eacli about the size of a crown piece, some of them paint their hair, and sometimes a spot on the middle of the forehead. The Indians have no fixed habitations when they are hunting ,• but build their houses where conve- niency presents : which are made so small, that it obliges the inhabitants to grope about in them, be- ing so low as not to admit one to stand erect, and are without windows. Those that are built for a permanent residence arc much more substantial ; they are built of logs and bark, large enough to contain several apartments. Those built for the chiefs are often ycry elegant. That of the chief warrior of the Mahas, is at least sixty feet in cir- cumference, and lined witli fiii^, and painting. Th< furs are of various colours, many of wliich I had never seen before, and were extremely beauti- ful ; the vai'iety in colour formed a contrast that much addcil to its elegance. The paintings were elegant, and would adorn the dwellings of an opu- lent European prinee. But the houses of the com- nion people are very indifferent. Ihi :y have also moveable houses, which they ^se for fishing, aud sometimes for hunting; which AMONG THE INDIANS. 41 are made of deer skins, or birch bark sewed to- gether, which they cover over poles made for that purpose ; they are bent over to form a semicircle, which resemble those bent by the Americans for beans or hops to grow on, and are covered over as before mentioned, which are very light and easily transported where necessity requires. The best of their cabins have no chimneys, but a small hole to let the smoke through, which they are compelled to stop np in stormy weather; and when it is too cold to put out their fire, their huts are ilUed with clouds of smoke, which render them insvipportable to any but an Indian. The common people lie on bear skins, which are spread on the floor. Their ciiiefs sleep on beaver skins, which are sometimes elevated. Their utensils ai^e few, and in point of usefulness very defective ; those to hold water in, are made of the skins of animals and the knotty excrescences of hard wood ; their spoons are manufactured out of wood, or the bones of a buffalo, and are tolera- bly commodious, and I have often seen them ele- gant, and sometimes painted. The Flatheads and Clatsops make baskets out of rushes, that will hold water if they are not very dry. These two nations appear to have more of a mechanical genius, than any other people that I have ever been acquainted with. And I think they are not outrivalled by any nation on earth, when •taking into consideration their very limited me- chanical instruments. Many of the Indian nations make no use of bread, salt, and spices; and many live to be old without seeing or tasting of either. Those that live near the snowy mountains, live in a great jueasure on berries, whicli clothe the fields in great abundance. The Taukies and other Eastern tribes, where Indian corn grows, take green corn and beans, boil tltem together with bear's flesh, the fat of 42 ISEW TRAVELS wliicli gives flavour and renders it beyond com- parison delicious ; they call this dish Suecatosh. In general they have no idea of the use of milk, although great quantities might be collected from buffalo and elk. They only consider it proper for the nourishment of the young of these beasts, in their tender state. It cannot be perceived that any inconvenience arises from the disuse of arti- cles so much esteemed by civilized nations, wltich they use to give a relish and flavour to their food. But on the contrary, the great healthiness of the Indians, and the unhealthiness of the sons of Epi- tHirus, prove that the diet of the former is the most salutary. They preserve their meat by exposing it to the vsun in the summer, and in the winter by putting it between cakes of ice, which keep it sweet, and free from any putrefactive quality. Their food consists in a great measure of the flesh of the bear, buflalo, and deer. Those that reside near the head of the Missouri and Columbia iivris, Ciiiefly make use of the buffalo and elk, v/hich are often seen from fifty to an hundred in a drove. When there are plenty of the two last mentioned beasts there are but a few of the former, and where there are many of the former, but few of the latter. The mode of roasting their meat, is by burning it under ground on the side of a hill, placing stones next to the meat; the mode of building to heat it, sowewhat resembles the fire made under a iime-kilsi. In this manner they roast the largest of their animals. The mode of cooking smaller pieces, is to roast it in stones, that are hewn out for the purpose. The Flatlieads and Clatsops procure a root about the size of a potatoe, wiiich grows sponta- neously and in great abundance, and is tolerably palatable, and perfectly agiees with the natives ; but made us all sick, vvhilc wc were among them. Before we descended the Columbia river, we were AMONG THE INDIANS. 4b3 unable to procure game, and had recourse to the flesh of dogs and horses to preserve life, as those of roots would, without doubt, have destroyed us, and we were unable to procure any other kind of food. Many of the tribes of Indians are extremely dirty. I have seen the Maha Indians bring water in the paunches of animals that were very dirty, and in other things equally so. But tlie Maha chiefs are very neat and cleanly m their tents, apparel, and food. The Indians commonly eat in large parties, so that their meals may, with propriety, be termed feasts ; they have not set hours for their meals, but obey the dictates of nature. Many of the tribes dance before or after their meals, in devotion to the Great Spirit, for the bles- sings they receive. Being informed of the mode of our saying grace, they answered that they thought we were stupid and ungrateful not to ex- ercise our bodies for the great benefits that we recieved : but muttering with our lips, tiiey thought was an unacceptible sacrifice to the Great Spirit, and the stupid mode of the ceremony ridiculous in the extreme. In their feasts, the men and women eat apart; but in their domestic way of living, they promiscuously eat together. Instead of getting together and drinking as the Americans do, they make use of feasting as a sub- stitute. When their chiefs are assembled together, on any occasion, they always conclude with a feast, at whicii their hilarity and cheerfulness know no bounds. No people on earth are more hospitable, kind, and free, than the Indians. They will readily share with any of their own tribe the last i)art of their provisions, and even those of a diiferent nation. Tliough they do not keep one common stock, yet the community of goods is so prevalent D2 4i NEW TRAVELS among tliem, and their generous dispositions ren- der it nearly of the same effect. They stiike fire by rubbing together two sticks of wood, of a particular kind, whicli they procure with ease ; fi'om other kinds it is impossible to procure fire. They are extremely circumspect and deliberate in every word and action ; tliere is nothing that hurries them into any intemperate wratli, but that inveteracy to their enemies, which is rooted in every Indian's breast, and never can be eradicated. In all other instances they are cool, and deliberate, taking care to suppress the emotions of the heart. If any Indian has discovered tliat a friend of his is in danger of being cut off by a lurking enemy, he does not inform him of his danger in direct terms, as though he was in fear, but he first coolly asks him which way he is going tliat day ; and having his answer; with the same indifference tells him, that he has been informed, that an obnoxious beast lies on the route where he is going, which might probably do him mischief. Tiiis hint proves suffi- cient ; and his friend avoids the danger w ith as much caution, as tliough every design and motion of his enemy had been pointed out to him. llus apathy often sliows itself, on occasions that would draw fourth the fervour of a susceptible heart. If an Indian had been absent from his family for several months, either on a war or hunting paily, and his wife and children meet him at some distance from his habitation, instead of the affectionate sensations that naturally arise in the breast of more refined beings, and are productive of mutual congratulations, he continues liis course without looking to the right or left; without pay- ing the least attention to those around him, till he arrives at his house : He there sits down, and w ith the same unconcern as if he had not been absent a day, smokes his pipe; those of his friends who foliowed him, do the same; perhaps it is several hours before he relates to them tlie incidents that have befallen him during his abscence^ though per- AMONG THE INDIANS. 45 haps he has left a father, a brother, or a son dead on the iiehl, (whose loss he ought to liave lamented) or has been successful in the undertaking that call- ed him fi'om home. If an Indian has been engaged for several days in the chase or any other laborious expedition, and by accident continued long without food, when he arrives at the hut of a friend, where he knows that his wants will be immediately supplied, he takes care not to show the least symptoms of impatience, or be- tray, the extreme hunger that he is tortured with; but on being invited in, sits contentedly down, and smokes his pipe with as much composure as if his appetite was cloyed, and he was perfectly at ease : he does the same if among strangers. This custom is strictly adhered to by every tribe, and they esteem it a proof of fortitude, and think the reverse would entitle them to the appellation of old women. If you tell an Indian, that his children have greatly signalized themselves against an enemy, have taken many scalps, and brought home many prisoners, he does not appear to feel any great emotions of pleasure on the occasion ; his answer fenerally is, *• they have done well," and makes ut very little enquiiy about it ; on the contrary, if you inform him that his children are slain or taken prisoners ; he makes no complaints, he only replies, "it is unfortunate," and for some time, asks no questions about how it happened. This seeming indifferance, however, does not proceed from a want of the natural affections, for, notwithstanding they are esteemed savages, I never saw among any other people greater proofs of filial tenderness ; and, although they meet tlieir wives after a long absence witli the stoical indiffer- ence just mentioned, they are not, in general, void of conjugal affection. Another peculiarity is observable in their man- ner of paying visits. If an Indian goes to visit a particular person in a family, he mentions to whom his visit is intended, and the rest of the 46 NEW TRAVELS, family immediately retire to the other end of the hut or tent, and are careful not to come near enough to interrupt them during the whole con- versation. The same method is pursued when a young man goes to pay his addresses to a young wo- man; but then he must be careful not to let love be the subject of his discourse while the day light re- mains. They discover an amazing sagacity, and ac- quire with the greatest readiness, any thing that depends upon the attention of the mind. By ex- perience, and an acute observation, they attain many perfections, to which the Americans are strangers. For instance, they will cross a forest, or a plain, which is two hundred miles in breadth, and reacli ^\itll great exactness the point at which they intend to arrive, keeping during the whole of that space in a direct line, without any ma- tei^ial deviations; and this they will do with the same ease, let the weather be fair or cloudy. With equal acuteness they will point to that part of the heavens, the sun is in, though it be inter- cepted by clouds or fogs ; beside this they are able to pursue with incredible facility the traces of man or beast, either on leaves or grass; and on this account it is witli great difficulty that a flying ene- mv escapes discovery. They are indebted for these talents not only to nature, but to an extraordinary command of the intellectual faculties, which can only be acquired by an unremitted attention, and by long experience. They are in general very happy in a retentive memory: tliey can recapitulate every particular that has been treated of in councils, and remember the exact time when they were held. Their belts of wampum preserve the substance of the treaties they have concluded with the neiglibouring tribes; for ages back, to which they will appeal, and refer with as much perspicuity, and readiness, as Europeans can to their written records. Every nation pays great respect to old age- AMONG THE INDIANS. 47 The advice of a father will never receive any extraordinai^ attention from the young Indians; probably they receive it with only a bare assent; but they will tremble before a grandfather, and submit to his injunctions with the utmost alacrity. The words of the ancient part of the community are esteemed by the young as oracles. If they take during hunting parties, any game that is reckoned by them uncommonly delicious, it is immediately presented to the eldest of their rela- tions. They never suffer themselves to be overbur- thened with care ; but live in a state of perfect tranquility and contentment, being naturally indo- lent. If provisions, just sufficient for their subsis- tence, can be procured with little trouble, and near at hand, they will not go far, or take any extraor- dinary pains for it, though by so doing they might acquire greater plenty and of a more estimable kind. Having much leisure time they indulge this in- dolence to which they are prone, by sleeping or rambling about among their tents But when necessity obliges them to take tlie field, either to oppose an enemy, or to procure themselves food, they are alert and indofatigahle. Many instances of their activity, on these occasions, will be given when we treat of their wars. The greatest blemish in their cliaracter, is that savage disposition, which impels them to treat their enemies with a severity, that every other nation shudders at ; but if they are thus barbarous to those with whom they are at war, they are friendly, hospitable and humane in peace. It may with truth be said of them, that they are the woVst en- nemies, and the best friends of any people in the world. Tliey are, in general, strangers to the passion of jealousy, and brand a man with folly that is dis- trustful of his wife. Among some tribes the very idea is not known ; as tlie most abandoned of their 48 - NEW TRAVELS young men very rarely attempt the virtue of mar- ried women, nor do tiiese put themselves in the way of solicitations; yet, tlie Indian women in general, are of an amorous dispositioii ; and be- fore they are married are not the less esteemed for the indulgence of their passions. The Indians, in their common state, are stran- gers to all distinction of pioperty, except in the articles of domestic use, which every on«- considers as iiis own, and increase as circiinistances admit. They are extremely liberal to each other and sup- ply the deficiency of their friends with any super- fluity of their own. In dangers they readily give assistance to any of their band that stand in need of it, without any expectation of return, except those just rewards that are always confered by the Indians on merit. Governed by the plain and equitable laws of nature, every one is rewarded according to his deserts ; and their equality of condition, manners, and pri- viliges, with that constant and social familiarity which prevails through every Indian nation, ani- mates them with a pure and patriotic spirit, that tends to tlie general good of the society to which they belong. If any of their neighboiir» are bereaved by death, or by an enemy, of their children, those who are possessed of the greatest number of prisoners, who are made slavesj supply the deficiency : and these are adopted by them and treated in every respect as if they realy were the children of the person to whom they are presented. The Indians can form to themselves no idea of the value of money ; they consider it, when they are made acquainted with the uses to which it is ap- plied, by other nations, as the source of innumera- ble evils. To it they attribute all the mischiefs that are prevalent among Europeans, such as treachery, plundering, devastation, and murder. They esteem it irrational, that one man should be possessed of a greater quantity than another, and AMONG THE INDIANS. 49 are amazed that any lionour should be annexed to the possession of it. But that the want of this useless metal should be the cause of depriving persons of their liberty, and that on account of this particular distribution of it, great numbers should be shut up within the dreary walls of a prison, cut off from society of which they constitute apart, exceeds their belief; nor do they fail, on hearing- this part of the United »States' sys- tem of government related, to charge the institu- tors of it with a total want of humanity, and to brand them witli the names of savages, brutes. They show almost an equal degree of indifference for the productions of art. When any of these are shown them, they say, ^* It is pretty, I like to look at it, " and often are not inquisitive about the construction of it, neither can they form proper conceptions of its use. But if you tell them a per- son runs with great agility, is skilled in hunting, can direct with unerring aim a gun, or bends with ease a bow^ can dexterously work a canoe, under- stands the art of war, is acquainted with the situa- tions of the country, and can make his way without a guide through an immence forest, subsisting during this on a small quantity of provisions, they are in raptures ; they listen with great attention to the pleasing tale, and bestow the highest commen- dation on the hero of it. They make but very little use of physicians and medicine, and consequently they have but very few disease among them. There is seldom an Indian but what blooms with the appearance of health. They have no midwives among them ; and among several tribes the mother is without the assistance of any person being with her at the time of her de- livery, not even a female attendance. Soon after the birth of a child, it is placed on a board, which is covered with a skin stuffexl with soft moss : the child is laid on its back and tied to it. To these machines are tied strings, by which they hang them to branches of trees 5 or, if they do not 50 NEW TRAVELS find trees handy, they lean them a,8^ainst a stump 01' stone while they dress the deer or fish, or do any domestic business. In this position they are kept until they are several months old. When tak- en out they are suffered to go naked, and are daily bathed in cold water, which render them vigour- ous and active. The diseases manufactured by the modern sons of dissipation, are known by them. These hardy disciples of health, do not hear of the powerful and painful eloquence of the Gout, Consumption^ and the rest of the long catologue of Typhus diseases, which is preached to the votaries of Epicurus and Bacchus, when their repentence is too late. An Indian child is generally kept at the breats until it is two years old, and sometimes, though rarely, until three years. The Indians often occasion inflammatory disease, by I xcessive eating, after a fast of three or four days, when retreating from, or pursuing an enemy. The inequality of riches, the disappointment of ambition, and merciless oppressions, are not with them exciting causes of insanity, I niade great in- quiry, but was not able to learn, that a single case of melancholy or madness was ever known among them. The dreadful havoc that the small-pox has made, has necessarily been mentioned. The mode of curing a fever, is by profuse perspi- ration, which is effected by the patients being con- fined in a close tent or wigwarm, over a hole in the earth, in which red-hot stones are placed ; a quantity of hot water is then thrown upon the stones, which involves the patient in a cloud of va- pours and sweat ; in this situation he rushes out ; and plunges into a river of water, and from hence he retires into a warm bed. They never think of giving medicine, until they have first made an attempt to remove the disease by sacrifices and prayer ; and if the patient re- covers soon, it is attributed to the holy management AMONG THE INDIANS. 51 of the priest ; and if medicine is to be used as tlie last alternative, they never administer it without its bemff accompanied with prayer, and a lar-c quan- tity of meat, which they consume on tiic fire for a sacrifice They have a plant among them, wJiich has the power of producing abortion. It is related by Mi\ Jelferson in his Notes on Virginia, that the Indians mhabitnig the frontiers possess a plant tliat pro- duces the same effect. Considering their ignorance of astronomv, time IS very irrationally divided by the Indians. "^Those m the interior parts (and of those I would gcncrallv be understood to speak) count their years by win- ters ; or, as they express themselves, by snows. Some nations among them reckon their years by moons, and make them consist of twelve svnodical or lunar months, observing, wJien thirty moons nave waned, to add a supernumerary one, which they term the Lost Moon ; and then begin to count as before. They pay a great regard to the first appearance of every moon ; and on the occasion always repeat some joyful sounds, stretching at tlie saine time their hands towards it. Every month has witJi them a name expressive of it season; for instance, they call the month of March (m which their year generally begins at the hrst new moon, after the vernal Equinox) the » orm Month or Moon ,• because at this time the worms quit their retreats in the bark of the trees, wood, &c. where they have sheltered themselves during the winter. The month of April is termed by tliem the montli of Plants. xMay, the month of Flower. June tiie Hot Moon. July, the Buck Moon. Their reason tor thus denominating these is obvious. August, the Sturgeon Moon; because in tliis month they catch great numbers of that fish. September, the Corn Moon; because in that month they gather in their Indian Corn. October, the Travelling Moon ; as they leave at E BZ ISEW TRAVELS this time their \illa.2;es, and travel towards the place wliere they intend to liiiut during the win- ei*. Noveniher, the Beaver Moon ; for in this month the Beavers begin to take shelter in their houses, having laid up a sufficient store of provisions for the winter s<^ason. Decciiiber, the Hunting Moon, because they em- ploy this month in pursuit of their game. January, the Cold Moon, as it generally freezes harder, and the cold is more intense in this than m any other month. Februarv, they call the Snow Moon, because more snow^ commonly falls during this month, than anv otiier in the winter. ^y hen the moon does not shine they say the Moon is dead ; and some call tlie three last days of it the naked days. The moon's first appearance they term, is coming to life again. They make no division of weeks ; but days they count by sleeps ; half days by pointing to the sun at noon; and quarters by the rising and sitting ol tlie sun ; to express which in their traditions they make use of very significant hieroglyphics. The Indians are totally unskilled in geography as well as all other sciences ; and yet they draw on tiieii^ birch bark very exact charts or maps of the counti'ics they are acquainted with. The latitude and longitude in only wanting to make them tolera- blv complete. . ^ . Their sole knowledge in astronomy consists m b^iii£- able to point out the pole-star ; by which they rr£:iilate their course when they travel in the night. They reckon the distance of places, not by miles or leagues, but bv a day's journey, which accord- ino- to the best calculations I could make, appeal's toTie about tw( nty English miles. These they also divide into halves and quarters, and will demon- strate t];eni in their maps with great exactness, by the I'iorodvphics just mentioned, when they regu- ate in council their wai' pai'ties, or their most dis- ant hunting excursions. AMONG THE INDIANS. 53 Tlicy have no idea of arithmetic ; and tfiou^i they are able to count any number, figures as well as letters appear mysterious to them, and above their comprehension. Every separate body of Indians is divided into lands or tribes ; which band or tribe forms a little community with the nation to wliich it belongs. As the nation has some particidar symbol by which it is distinguished from others, so each tribe has a badge ironi which it is denominated 5 as that of the Eagle, the Panther, the Tiger, the Buffalo, ke. One band is represented by a Snake, another a Tortoise, a third a Squiri-el, a fourtli a Wolf, and a fifth aBuf- faloe. Througliout every Hation they particulize themselves in the same manner ; and the meanest person among them will remember his lineal descent, and distinguish himself by his respective family. Did not many circumstances tend to confute the supposition, I should be almost induced to coneliKte from this distinction of tribes, and the particular attachment of the Indians to them, that they derive their origin, as some have asserted, fi-om the Is- raelites* Besides this, every nation distinguishes them- selves by tlie manner of constructing^ their tents or huts. And so well versed are all the Indians in this distinction, that though there appears to be no difference on the nicest observations made by an American, yet they will immediately discover, from the position of a pole left in the ground, what na- tion has encamped on the spot many months be- fore. Every band has a chief who is termed the great chief, or the chief warrior ; and who is cliosen in consideration of his experience in war, and ot his approved valour, to direct tlieir military operations, and to regulate all concerns belonging to that de« Eartment, But this chief is not considered as the ead of the state. Besides the great warrior who is elected for Ids warlike qualifications, there is ano- ther who enjoys a ^re-eminence as his hereditary Bi NEW TRAVELS right, anil haiS the more immediate management of their civil affairs. This chief might with great pro- priety be denominated the Sachem ; whose assent is necessary in all conveyances and treaties, to which he affixes the mark of the tribe or nation. Though these two arc considered as the heads of the band, and tlie latter is usually denominated their king, yet the Indians are sensible of neither civil or military subordination. As every one of them en- tertains a high opinion of his consequence, avA is extremely tenacious of his liberty, all injunctions that carry with them the appearance of a positive command, are instantly rejected with scorn. On this account, it is seldom that their leaders are £0 indiscreet as to give out any of their oi'ders in a peremptory style ; a bare hint from a chief that he thinks such a thin^ necessary to be done, instantly arouses an emulation among the inferior ranks, and it is immediately executed with great alacrity. By this method the disgustful part of the command is evaded, and an authority that falls little short of ab- solute sway instituted in its room. Among the Indians no visible form of government is establislied ; they allow of no such distinction as magistrate and subject, every one appearing to en- joy an independence that cannot be controled. Ihe object of government among them is rather fo- reign than domestic, for their attention seem more to be employed in preserving sucli a union among members of their tribes as will enable them to watch the motions of their enemies, and act against them with concert and vigour, than to maintain interior order by any public regulations. If a scheme that appeai^s to be of service to the community is propos- ed by the chief, every one is at liberty to choose whether he will assist in carrying it on ; for tliey have no compulsory laws that lay them under any restrictions. If violence is committed, or blood is shed, the right of I'evenging these misdemeanors is left to the family of the injured : the chiefs assume AMONG THE INDIANS. 55 neither the power of inflicting or moderating the punishment. Some nations, where the dignity is hereditary, limit the succession to the female line. On the death of a chief, his sister's son sometimes succeeds him in preference to his own son ; and if he happens to have no sister, the nearest female relation assumes the dignity. This accounts for a woman being at the head of the Winnebago nation, which, before I was acquainted w^ith their laws, appeared strange to me. Each family has a right to appoint one of its chiefs to be an assistant to the principal cliief, w^ho watch- es over the interest of his family, and witliout whose consent nothing of a public nature can be carried into execution. These are generally chosen for their ability in speaking ; and such only are permitted to make orations in their councils and general as- semblies. In this body, with the hereditary chief at its head, the supreme authority appears to be lodged ; as by its determination every transaction relative to their hunting, to their making war or peace, and to all their public concerns, are regulated. Next to these, the body of warriors which comprehends all that are able to bear arms, hold their rank. This divi- sion has sometimes at its head tlie chief of the na- tion, if he has signalized himself by any renowned action, if not, some chief that has rendered himself famous. In their councils which are held by the foregoing members, every affair of consequence is debated ; and no enterprise of the least moment undertaken, unless it there meets with the general approbation of the chiefs. They commonly assemble in abut or tent appropriated to tliis pju'p'ose, and being seated in a circle on the ground, the eldest chief rises and makes a speech, when he has concluded, another gets up, and thus they speak if necessary, by turns. On this occasion their language is nervous, and E2 56 iSfEW TRAVELS their manner of expression emphatical. Theii* style is adorned with images, comparisons, and strong metaphors, and is equal in allegories to that of any of the eastein nations. In all their set speeches tiiey express themselves with much vehe- mence, hut in common discourse according to our usual method of speech. Hie young men are suffered to he present at the councils, though they are not allowed to make a speech till they are regularly admitted; they however listen with great attention, and to show that they hoth undeistand and approve of the reso- lutions taken hy the assembled chiefs, they fre- quently exclaim, "That is right," "That is good.'' The customary mode among all ranks of expres- singj^their assent, and which they repeat at the end of almost every period, is by uttering a kind of forcible aspiration, which seems like an union of the letters OAH. Dancing is a favourite exercise among the In- dians: they never meet on any public occasion, but this makes a part of the entertainment; and when they are not engaged in war or huntings the youth of *bi.th sexes amuse themselves in this man- ner every evening. They always dance, as I have just observed Ri tlieii' feasts. In these as well as other dances, every man i ises in his turn, and moves about with great freedom and boldness ; singing as he does so, the exploits of his ancestors. During this tlie compa- ny who are seated on the ground in a circle around the dancer, join with him in making the cadence, h} an odd tune, which they utter all together, and which sounds, " Heli, heh, heh." These notes, if they might be so termed, are articulated with a harsh accent, and straned out with the ut- mt st force of their lungs; so that one would ima^ gir.e theii- strength must soon be exhausted by it; instead of which, they repeat it with the same vio- lence during the whole of the enteiiaimBenL AMONG THE INDIANS. 5r The women, particularly those of the western na- tions dance very gracefully. Tiiey carry themselves erect, and with theii' arms hanging down close to their sides, move first a few yards to the right, and then hack again to the left. This movement they perform without taking any steps as an American would do, but with their feet conjoined, moving by turns their toes and heels. In tliis manner they glide with great agility to a certain distance, and then return : and let those who join in the dance be ever so numerous, they keep time so ex- actly with each otlier, that no interruption ensues. During tliis, at stated periods, they mingle their shrill voices, with tlic hoarser ones of the men, who sit around (for it is observed that the sexes never intermix in the same dance) which with the music of the drums and chicicoes, make an agreeable harmony. The Indians have several kinds of dances, wliich they use on different occasions, as the Pipe Calumet Dance, tlie War Dance, the Marriage Dance, and the Dance of the sacrifice. The movements of every one of these are dissimilar; but it is almost impossible tp convey any idea of the points in which they are unlike. Different nations likewise vary in their manner of dancing. The Chipeway throw themselves into a greater variety of attitudes than any other peo- ple; sometimes tliey hold their heads erect, at others they bend them almost to the ground; then recline on one side, and immediately on tlie other. Others carry themselves more upright, step firmer, and move more gracefully ; but tliey all accompa- ny their dances Nvith the disagreeable noise just mentioned. The Pipe Dance is the principal and most plea- sing to a spectator of any of them, being the least frantic, and the movement of it mfjst graceful. It is but on particular occasions that it is used : as when ambassadors from an enemy arrive to tr^t 58 NEW TRAVELS of peace, or wlien strangers of eminence pass through their territories. The >\ar Dance, which they use both before they set out on their war parties, and on their return fi^m them, strikes terror into strangers. It is perfoi'med, as others, amidst a circle af the warriors ; a chief g-enerally begins it, who moves from the riglit to the left, singing at the same time botli his own exploits, and those of his ances- tors. When he has concluded his account of any memorable action, he gives a violent blow w^ith his war club, against a post that is fixed in the ground, near the centre of the assembly for this purpose. Every one dances in his turn, and recapitulates the wondcrous deeds of his family, till they all at last join in the dance. Then it becomes truly alai'ming to any stranger that happens to be among them, as they thi'ow themselves into every horrible and terrifying posture that can be ima- gined, rehearsing at the same time the parts they expect to act against their enemies in the field. During this they hold their sliarp knives in tlieir hands, with which, as they ^^hirl about^ they are every moment in danger of cutting each other^s throats ; and did they not shun the threatened mis- chief with inconceivable dexterity, it could not be avoided. By these motions they intend to repi^sent the manner in which they kill, scalp, and take their prisoners. To heighten the scene, they set up the same hideous yells, cries, and war-hoops they use in time of action : so that it is impossible to consider them m any other light than as an assemblage of demons. After some hours spent in dancing, the feast begins ; the dishes being brought near me, I per- ceived that they consisted of dog's flesh: and I 'was informed that at all public grand feasts they never make use of any otlier kind of food. In this custom of eating dog-'s flesh on particu- Ijur occasions, they resemble the inhabitants of some AMONG THE INDIANS. 59 of tiie countries that lie on the northeast borders of Asia. The author of the account of Kamschatka, published by order of the empress of Russia: in- forms us, that the people inhabiting Koreka, a country north of Kamschatka, who wander about in liords like the Arabs, when they pay their worship to tlie evil beings, kill a rein deer or a dog', the iicsh of which they eat, and leave the head and tongue sticking on a pole with the front towards the east. Also, that when they are afraid of any infectious distemper, they kill a dog, and winding the guts about two poles, pass between them. These customs in which they are neai'ly imitated by the Indians, seem to add strength to my supposition, that America was first peopled from this quai'ter. " I know not," says a traveller among them, "under what class of dances to rank that per- formed by the Indians who came to my tent when I landed near lake Pepin, on the banks of the Mississippi. When I looked out, as I there men- tioned, I saw about twenty naked young Indians, the most perfect in their shape, and by far the handsomest of any I had ever seen, coming to- w aids me, and dancing as they approached, to the music of their drums. At every ten or twelve yards they halted, and set up their yells and cries. " When they reached my tent, I asked them to come in ; which, without deigning to make me any answer, they did. As I observed that they were painted red and black, as they usually are when they go against an enemy, and perceived that some parts of the war dance was intermix t with their other movements, I doubted not but they were set on by the inimical chief who had refused my salutation: I therefore determined to sell my life as dear as possible. To this pui-pose, I re- ceived them sitting on my chest with my gun and pistols beside me, and ordered my men to keep a watchful eye on them and be also upon their guard. 60 NEW TRAVELS ^* The Indians being entered they continued their dance alternately, singing at the same time oi' their heroic exploits, and the superiority of their race over every people. To enforce their lan- guage, though it was uncommonly nervous and expressive, and such as would of itself have car- ried terror to tlie firmest heart, at the end of every period they struck their war-clubs against the poles of my tent with such violence, tiiat I expected every moment it would have tumbled upon us. As each of them in dancing round, pas- sed by me they placed their right hand above their eyes, and coming close to me, looked me steadily in the face, which I could not construe into atoken of friendship. My men gave them- selves up for lost, and I acknowledge, for my own part, that I never found my apprehensions more tumultuous on any occasion. ^* When they had nearly ended their dance, I presented to them the pipe of peace, but they would not receive it. I then, as my last resource, thought I would try what presents would do ; ac- cording I took from my chest some ribbands and trinkets, which I laid before them. These seemed to stagger their resolutions, and to avert in some measure their anger; for after holding a consul- tation together, they sat down on the ground, which I considered as a favourable omen. ** Thus it proved that in a short time they re- ceived the pipe of peace, and lighting it first pre- sented it to me, and then smoked with it themselves. Soon ofter they took up the presents, which had hitherto lain neglected, and appearing to be greatly pleased with them, departed in a friendly manner. And never did I receive greater pleasure than at getting rid of such formidable guests. " It was not ever in my power to gain a thor- ough knowledge of the designs of my visitors. I had sufficient reason to conclude that they were hostile, and that their visit, at so late an hour, was made through the instigation of the Grand AMONG THE INDIANS. 61 -Sautor; but I was afterwards informed that it might be intended as a compiiment which they usually pay to the chiefs of every other nation who happen to fall in witli them, and that the cir- cumstances in their conduct whicli had appeared so suspicious to me, were merely the effects of their vanity and designed to impress on the minds of those wiiom they thus visited an elevated opinion of their valour and prowess. In the mornin.2; before I continued my route, several of their wives brought me a present of some sugar, for w hom I found a few more ribbands. " The dance of the sacrifice is not so denomi- nated from their offering up at the same time a sacrifice to any good or evil spirit, but is a dance to which tiie Naudowessies give that title from being used when any public fortunate circumstance befals them. Whilst I resided among them, a line lar^e deer aecidently strayed into the middle of their encampment, which they soon destroyed. As this happened just at the new* moon, they esteemed it a lucky omen; and having roasted it whole, every one in the camp partook of it. After their feast,' they all joined in a dance, which they from its being somewhat of a religious nature, termed a dance of the sacrifice."^ Hunting is the principal occupation of the In- dians ; they are trained to it from theii* youth, and it is an exercise which is esteemed no less honour- able tlian necessary toward their subsistence. A dexterous and resolute hunter is held in nearly as great estimation by them as a distinguished warrior. Scarcely any device, which tlie ingenuity of man has discovered for ensnaring or dcstr-jying those animals that supply tliem with food, or whose skins ai^ valuable, is unknown to them. AThilst they are engaged in tiiis exercise, they shake off the indolence peculiar to their nature., and * See Dr. Hubbard* s Compilation of Indian Hi^- fOry, 62 NEW TRAVELS become active, persevering, and indefatigable. They are equally sagacious in finding their prey, and in the means tliey use to destroy it. They discern the footsteps of the beast they ai'e in pursuit of, although they are imperceptible to every other eye, and can follow them with certainty through the pathless forest. The beasts that the Indians hunt, both for their flesh, on which they subsist, and for their skins, of which they either make their apparel, or barter with the Europeans fer necessaries, are the buffalo, elk, deer, moose, carriboo, bear, beaver. Otter, martin, &c. I defer giving a description of these animals here, and shall only, at present, treat of the manner of hunting them. The route they shall take for this purpose, and the parties that shall go on the different expeditions, are fixed in their general councils, whicli are held some time in the summer, when all the operations for the ensuing winter are concluded on. The chief warrior, whose province it is to regulate their pro- ceedings on this occasion, with great solemnity is- sues out an invitation to those who choose to attend him ; for the Indians, as before observed, acknow- ledge no superiority, nor have they any idea of compulsion ; and every one that accepts it, pre- pares himself by fasting during several days. The Indians, do not fast as some other nations do, on the richest and most luxurious food, but they totally abstain from every kind, either of victuals or drink ; and such is their patience and resolution, that the most extreme thirst could not oblige them to taste a drop of water ; yet amidst this severe ab- stinence they appear clieerful and happy. The reasons they give for thus fasting, are, tliat it enables them freely to dream, in which dreams they are informed where tliey shall find the greatest plenty of game; also, that it averts the displeasure of the evil spirits, and induces them to be propitious. They also on these occasions blacken those parts of their bodies that are uncovered. AMONG THE INDIANS. 63 The fast being ended, and the place of hunting made known, tlie chief who is to conduct them, gives a grand feast to those who are to form the dif- ferent parties : of which none of them dare to par- take till they have bathed themselves. At this feast, notwithstanding they have fasted so long, they eat Avith great moderation ; and tlie chief that presides employs himself in rehearsing the feats of those who have been most successful in the business they are about to enter upon. They soon after set out on the march towards the place appointed, painted or rather bedaubed with black, amidst the acclama- tions of all the people. It is impossible to describe their agility or perse- verance, whilst they are in pursuit of their prey ; neither thickets, ditches, torrents, pools, or rivers stop them ; they always go straight forward in the mo^t direct line they possibly can, and there are few of the savage inhabitants of the woods that they can- not overtake. When they hunt for bears, they endeavour to find out their retreats ; for during tlie winter, these ani- mals conceal themselves in the hollow trunk of trees, or make themselves holes in the ground, wherethey continue without food, whilst the severe weather lasts. When the Indians think they have arrived at a place where these animals usually haunt, they form themselves into a circle according to their number, and moving onward, endeavour, as they advance towards the centre, to discover the reti*eats of their pi'ey. By this means, if any lie in the intermediate space, they are sure of arousing and bringing tliem down, either with their bows or their guns. The bears will take to flight at siglitof a man or a dog, and will only make resistance when they are ex- tremely hungry, or after they are wounded. The Indian method of hunting the buff\\lo is by forming a circle or a square, nearly in the same manner as wlien they search for tlie bear. Having taken their different stations, they set the grass, F 6i NEW TRAVELS wliicli at this time is rank and dry, on lire, and these animals who are extremely fearful of that element, Hying with precipitation hefore it, great numbers ai'c hemmed in a small compass, and scarcely a single one escapes. They liave diffei'ent ways of hunting the elk, the deer, and tlie carriboo. Sometimes they seek them out in the woods, to which they retire during the severity of the cold, where tliey are easily shot from behind tlie trees. In the more northern climates they take the advantage of the weather to destroy tlieelk; wlien the sun has just strength enough to melt the snow, and the frost in the night forms^ a kind of crust on the surface, this animal being lieavy, breaks it with his forked hoofs, and with difliculty extricates himself from it : at this time therefore he is soon overtaken and destroyed. Some nations haAX a method of hunting these^ni- mals which is more easily executed, and free from danger. The hunting party divide themselves into two bands, and choosing a spot near the borders of some river, one party embarks on board their ca- noes, whilst the other forming themselves into a se- micircle on the land, the flanks of which reach the shore, let loose their dogs, and by this means rouse a'i the game that lies Within these bounds ; they then drive them towards the I'ivei*, into which they no sooner enter, than the greatest part of them areim- mediately despatched by those who remain in the eanoes. ^ Both the elk and buffalo are very furious when they are wounded, and will turn fiercely on their |)ursuers, and trample them under their feet if the hunter finds no means to complete theii' destruction, or does not seek for security in flight to some ad- jacent ti-ee^^ by this method they are frequently avoided, and soT5LS of their ennemies, or a number of prisoners are alone to be esteemed valuable, it is not to be won- dered at that the young Indians are continually restless and uneasy if their ardour is repressed, and they are kept in a state of inactivity. Either of these jiropensitics, the desire of revenge, or the gratification of an impulse, that by degrees be- comes habitual to them, is sufficient, frequently to induce them to commit hostilities on some of the neighbouring nations. When tlie chiefs find any occasion for making war, they endeavour to ai'ouse their habitudes, and by that means soon excite their warriors to take arms. For this purpose they make use of their martial eloquence, nearly in the following words, which never fails of proving effectual : " the bones of our deceased countrymen lie uncovered, they call out to us to revenge their wi'ongs, and we must satisfy their request. Their spirits cry out against us. They must be appeased. The genii, who are the guardians of our honour, inspire us with a resolution to seek the ennemies of our mur- dered brothers. Let us go and devour those by whom they were slain. Sit there no longer inac- tive, give way to the impulse of your natural va- lour, anoint your hair, paint your faces, fill your quivers, cause the foi*est to resound with your songs, console the spirits of the dead, aud tell them they shall be revenged." Animated by these exhortations the warriors snatch their arms in a transport of fury, sing the song of war, and burn with impatience to imbrue their hands in the blood of their enemies. Sometimes private chiefs assemble small parties and make excursions against those with whom they are at wai^ or such as have injured them. A single warrior, prompted by revenge or a desire to show his prowess, will march unattended several hundred miles, to surprise and cut off a straggling party. These irregular sallies however, are not always AMONG THE INDIANS. 71 approved of by the elder chiefs, though they are often obliged to connive at them. But when a war is national and undertaken by the community, their deliberations are formal and slow. The elders assemble in council, to which all the head warriors and young men are admitted, where they deliver their opinions in solemn speeches, weighing w^ith maturity the nature of the enterprise they are about to engage in, and balancing with great sagacity, tlie advantages or inconveniences that will arise from it. Their priests are also consulted on the subject, and even sometimes, the advice of the most intelli- gent of their women is asked. If the determination be for war, they prepare for it without much ceremony. The chief warrior of a nation does not on all oc- casions head the war party himself, lie frequently deputes a warrior of whose valour and prudence he has a good opinion. The person thus lixed on be- ing first bedaubed with black, observes a fast of several days, during which he invokes the Great Spintf or deprecates the anger of the evil ones, holding while it lasts no converse with any of his tribe. He is particularly careful at the same time to ob- serve his dreams, for on these do they suppose their siiccess will in a great measure depend; and from the firm persuasion every Indian, actuated by his own presumptuous thoughts is impressed with, that he shall march forth to certain victory, these are generally favourable to his wishes. After he has fasted as long as custom prescribes, he assembles the warriors, and holding a belt of wampum in his hand, thus addresses them : *• Brothers ! by the inspiration of the Great Spirit I now speak unto you, iyid by him am I prompted to carry into execution the intentions wliich I am about fo disclose to you. The blood of our deceased brother is not yet wiped away ; their bodies are n;)t yet covered, and I am going to perform this duty to them,*' ^:^ NEW TRAVELS Having then made known to tliem all the moth es that induce him to take wp arms against the nation with whom they are to engage, he thus proceeds : '*! have therefore resolved to march through thQ war path to surprise them. We will eat their flesh and drink their hlood ,• we will take scalps and make prisoners ; and should we perish in this glo- rious enterprise, we shall not be forever hid in the dust, for this belt shall be a recompense to him who buries the dead." Having said this, he lays on the ground, and he who takes it up declares himself his lieutenant, and is considered as the second in com- mand ; this, however, is only done by some distin- fuished warrior who has a right by the number of is scalps, to the post. Though the Indians thus assert that they will eat the flesh and drink the blood of their enemies, the threat is only to be considered as a figurative ex- pression. Notwithstanding they sometimes devour the heai-is of tliose they slay, and drink the blood, by w ay of bravado, or to gratify in a more complete manner their revenge. The chief is now washed from his sable covering, anointed with bear's fat, and painted with their red paint, in such figures as will make him appeal* most terrible to his enemies. He then sings the w^ar song, and enumerates his warlike actions. Having done this he fixes his eyes on the sun, and pays his adoration to tjie Crveat Spint, in which he is accom- panied by all the warriors. This ceremony is followed witli dances, such as I have before described ; and the whole concludes with a feast which usually consists of dog's flesh. This feast is held in the hut or tent of the chief warrior, to which all those who intend to accom- pany him in his expedition send their dishes to be filled ; and during the feast, notwithstanding he has - fasted so long, he sits composedly with his pipe in his mouth, and recounts the valorous deeds of his family. As the hopes of having their wounds, should they AMOXG THE INDIANS. 73 receive any, j^roperly treated, and expeditiously cured, must be some additional inducement to the warriors to expose themseh es more freely to dan- ger, the priests, who are also their doctors, pre- pare such medicines as will prove efficacious. With great ceremony they carry various roots and plants and pretend tliat they impart to them the power of healing. Notwithstanding this superstitious method of proceeding, it is very certain that they have ac- quired a knowledge of many plants and herbs that are of a medical quality, and which they know how to use with great skill. From the time the resolution of engaging in war is taken, to the departure of the warriors, the nights are spent in festivity, and their days in making the needful preparations. If it is thought necessary by the nation going to war, to solicit the alliance of any neighbouring tribe, tliey fix upon one of tlieir chiefs who speaks the language of that people well, and who is a good orator, and send to them by him a belt of wampum, on which is specified the purport of tlie embassy in figures that every nation is well acquainted with. At the same time he carries with him a hatchet painted red. As soon as he reaches the camp or village to whicli he is destined, he acquaints the chief of the tribe with the general tenor of his commission, who immediately assembles a council, to which the am- bassador is invited. There having laid the hatchet on the ground, he holds the belt in his hand, and enters more minutely into tiie occasion of his em- bassy. In his speech he invites them to take up the hatchet, and as soon as he has finished speaking, delivers the belt. If his hearers are inclined to become auxiliaries io his nation, a chief steps forward and takes up tlic hatchet, and they immediately espouse, with spirit, the cause they have thus engaged to support. But • f, on this application^ neither the belt or hatchet 74 NEW TRAVELS are accepted, the emissary concliules tliat the peo- pie whose assistance lie solicits, have already en- tered into an alliance with the foes of his nation, and returns with speed to inform his countrymen of his ill success. The manner in which the Indians declare war against each other, is by sending a slave with a hatchet, the handle of which is painted red, to the nation which they intend to break with ; and the messenger notwithstanding the danger to which he is exposed from the suddeji fury of those whom he thus sets at defiance, executes his commission with great fidelity. Sometimes this token of defiance has such an in- stantaneous effect on those to whom it is presented, that in the first transports of their fury a small party will issue forth, without waiting- for tlie per- mission of the elder chiefs, and slaying the first of the offending nation they meet, cut open the body and stick a hatchet of the same kind as that they just received, into the heart of their slaughtered foe. Among the more remote tribes this is done with an arrow or spear, the end of which is painted red. And the more to exasperate, they dismember the body, to show that they esteem them not as men, but as old women. The Indians seldom take the field in large bodies, as such numbers wonld require a greater degree of industry to provide for their subsistance, during their tedious marches through dreary forests or long voyages over lakes and rivers, than they would care to bestow. Tlieir armies are never encumbered with baggage or military stores. Each warrior, besides his weapons, carries with him only a mat, and whilst at a distance from the frontiers of the enemy sup- ports himself with the game he kills or the fish he catches. When they pass througli a country where they have no apprehensions of meeting with an enemy, they use very little precaution^ sometimes thei*e are AMONG THE INDIANS. 75 scarcely a dozen warriors left toi^ethor,- the rest bei.io: in pursuit of tlieir j^ame ; but tliou-h they should have roved to a very considerable ilistanc'c from the wai'-path, they are sure to arrive at the place of rendezvous by the ho!ir appointed. , They always pitch their tents lon.;^ before sunset ; and being- naturally presumptuous,' take verv little <^are to .^uard a.^ainst a surprise. They place .^reat onfidence m their Manitous, or household ffods, which they always carry with them ; and bein;^ per- suaded that they take upon them the office of sentin- ols.they sleep very securely under their protection. 1 hose :Manitous, as they are called by some na- tions but which are termed Wakons, that is spirits, by the Naudowessies, are notliin- more than the otter and martin skins I have already described ; for which, however, they have a .i^reat veneration. After they have entered the enemy^s country, no people can be more cautious and circumspect; fires are no longer lig-lited, no more shouting is lieard, nor t!ie game any longer pursued. They are not even permitted to speak -, b'lt must convey whatever they have to impart to eack other, by siirns and motions. ^ Tliey now proceed wholly by stratagem and am- buscade. Having discovered their enemies, they send to reconnoitre them ; and a council is imme- diately held, during wliifh thev speak only in whis- pers, to consider of the intelligence imparted by liiose who were sent out. The attack is generally made just before day- break, at which period they suppose their foes to be in tlie soundest sleep. Throughout the whole of the preceeding night they will lie flat upon their laces, without stirring ; and make their approaches m the same posture, creeping upon their hands and leet till they are got within bow-shot of tfiose they have destined to destruction. On a signal given by the chief warrior, to which the Whole 11 ^f"!^''* answer by the most hideous yells, they au start up, and, discharging their arrows in the G 76 iNEW TRAVELS same instant, without giving their adversaries tiinc to recover from the contusion into which tiiey aie tlirown, pour in upon them with their warclubs or ^^Th^Indians think there is little glory to be ac- quired from attacking their enemies openly in the field ; their greatest pride is to surprise and destroy. They seldom engage without a manifest appear- ance of advantage. If they find the enemy on their c:uard, too strongly intrenched, or superior m num- hers, they retire, provided there is an oiyortunity of doine: so. And they esteem it tlie greatest quali- fication of a chief warrior, to be able to manage an attack, so as to destroy as many of the enemy as possibk^ at the expense of a few men. When the Indians succeed m tlieir silent ap- proaches, and are able to force tlic camp which they attack, a scene of liorror tliat exceeds description en«ues. The savage fierceness of the conquerors, and the desperation of the conquered, who we know what they have to expect should they fall alive into the hands of their assailants, occasiontbe most 'extraordinary exertions on both sides. The fiffure of the combatants all besmeared with black and red paint, and covered with the blood of tlie slain, their horrid yells and ungovernable tury, arc not to be conceived by those who have never seen them Though the Indians are negligent in guard- iM^^ surprise, they are^alert and dexterous in surprising their enemies. To their caution and perseverance in stealing on the party they design to attack, they add that admirable talent, or ratto- instinctive qualification I have already descTibed, of tracing out those they are in pursuit ot. Un the smoothest grass, on the hardest e^rth, and even on reverystoneswilltheydiscoverthetracesofanene- my , and by the shape of the footsteps,and the distance bc^ veen the prints, distinguish not only whe her it is a m^i or a woman who has passed that way, but even thTnationtowlnchtheybelong. However incredible this might appear, yet, from the many proofs I re- A^IONG THE Il^DIANS. 77 ceivcd whilst among them of their amazing sagacity inthis point, I see no reason to discredit even these extraordinary exertions of it. When they have overcome an enemy, and victory is no longer doubtful, tlie conquerors first despatch all such as they think they shall not be able to carry off without great trouble, and then endeavour to take as many prisoners as possible ; after this taey return to scalp those who are either dead, or too much wounded to be taken with them. At this business they are exceedingly expert. They seize the head of the disabled or dead enemy, and, placing one of their feet on the neck, twist their left hand in the hair; by this means, having extended the skin, that covers the top of the head, they draw out their scalping knives, which are al- ways kept in good order for this cruel purpose, and witli a few dexterous strokes takes off the part that is termed the scalp. They are so expeditioiis^in doing this, that the whole time required, scarcely exceeds a minute. These tiizy p^cser^'e as mr,r.;:ir.cr.ts G. their prowess, and at the same time as proofs of the vengeance they have inflicted on their enemies. If two Indians seize in the same instant a prisoner, and seem to have an equal claim, the contest be- tween them is soon decided ; for to put a speedy end to any dispute that might arise, tlie person that is apprehensive he shail lose his expected reward, immediately has recourse to his tomahawk or war club, and knocks on the head the unhappy cause of their contention. Having completed theii* purposes, and made as much havoc as possible, they immediately retire towards their own country, with the spoil they have acquired, for fear of being pursued. Should this be tlie case, they make use of many stratagems to elude the searches of the pursuers. They sometimes scatter leaves, sand, or dust over the prints of their feet : sometimes tread in each other's footsteps : and sometimes lift their feet so high and tread so lightiy, as not to make any im- 78 ISE^Y TRAVELB j^ressicn OK the ground* But if they fir.d all thcSU precautions uifav ailing;, and that tliey are near be- ing- overtaken, they iirst despatch and scalp their piisoKei's, and then dividing, each cndeavouifi to regain Ids native country by a diireient route. I'his prevents all further pursuit^ for their ])ursuers ^ liow despairin,!^, either of gratifying their revange, t>r of lelcasing those of their friends who were made captive, return home. If the successful party is so lucky as to make good their retreat unmolested, they hasten with the g-reatest expedition to reach a country wlierc they may be perfectly secure ; and tiuit their woundeil companions may net retard their flight, they cairy them by tuinsiii litters, or if it is in the winter sea- son, draw them on sledges. I'Le prisoners tUuing their march, are guarded with the greatest care. During the day, if the Journey is cvir land, they are always held by some of the victorious party ; if by water, they are fas- tened Ic the canoe. ' in the night time Ihcy are stretched along the ground quito naked, with their legs, ai*ms, and neck fastened to hooks fixed in the ground. Besides this, cords ai'C tied to their arms or legs, which are held by an Indian, w ho instantly awakes at the least motion of them. During their march they oblige their prisoners (0 sing their death song, which generally consists t»f. these or similar sentences ; **I am going to die, 1 am about to suller; but I will bear the severest tortures my enemies can inflict, with becoming for- titude. I will die like a brave man ; and 1 shall I hen go to join the chiefs that have suffei'cd on the ame' account." These songs are continued with i.ecessary intervals, until they reach the village or vamp to which they are going. > hen the waniois are arrived within hearing, they set up diiferent cries,w hich connnunicatc totheir ij'iends a general histoiy of the success of tlie expe- t ition. The number of the dead-ci*ies tliey give, <:t dare how many of tlieirown party are lost; and AMONG THE INDIANS, rj the mimber of war hoops, the n#iiber oC prisoners they have taken. It is difhcultto describe these cries ; but the best idea I can convey of them is, that the former con- sists of the sound whoo, whoo, whoop, which is con- tinued in a loni;- shrill tone, nearly till the breath is exhausted, and then broken off with a sudden ele- vation of the voice. The latter, is a loud cry, of much the same kind, which is modulated into notes f by the hand being placed before the mouth. Both ot' them miglit be heard to a very considerable dis- tance. Whilst these are utteriii,^, the persons, to whom they are designed to convey the intelligence, con- tinue motionless and ail attention. Wheiitliis cere- mony is performed, the whole village issue out to learn the particulars of the relation they have just heaM in general terms ; and accordingly as the news proves mournful or tlie contraj'v, they answer by so many acclamations or cries of lauiv^ntion. Being by this time arrived at tiie village or camp, the women and cliildren arm themselves with sticks, and bludgeons, and form tiiemselvcs Int } twiy rank*, through wliich the prisoners are obliged to ])ass. Tlie treatment they undergo before tltey reach the extremity of the line, is very severe. Sometimes they are so beaten over the' head and face, as to have scarcely any remains of life; and happy would it be for them if by this usage an ejid was put to their wretched beings. But Ihdr tormen- tors take care that none of the blows they give prove mortal, as they msh to reserve the miserable sufferers for more severe inflictioris. After having undergone this introductory disci- pline, they are bound hand and foot, whilst the ehiels hold a council in which their fate is ^ter- mined. Those who are decreed to be put to t^ath, by the usual torments, are delivered to the chief of the warriors : such as are to be spared, are given into the hands of the chief of the nation ; so that m a short time all the prisoners mav be assured of G 2 so ISEW TRiiYELS their*fate,^s tlieTiientence now pronounced is irrc- vocabk'. Ikv iofnicr they tei m beiiii^* consigned to the house of death, the latter to the hous'c ot irtace. ? Smili captives as are pretty far advanced in life, . and have acquired i^reat lionour by their warlike deeds, always atone for tlic blood tlic^ have spilt, by tlie tortures of lire. Their success in war is readily known by the blue nuirks upon their breasts and ai ins, which are legible to the Indians as letters are to Americans. The manner in which these hierog'lyi)hics are made, is by breaking' the skin with the teeth of fish, or sharpened Hints, dipped in a kind of ink made (t)f tiic soot of pitch pine. Like those of ancient Picts of Britain, these arc esteemed ornamental ; and at the same time they serA e as registers olti^a heroic actions of the warrior, who thus bears libolit liim indelible marks of his valour. The prisoners destined to death are soon led to the place of execution, whicii is g'cneraily in the cen- tre of the camp or village ; where, being stript, and every pai't of their bodies blackened, the skin of a crow or raven is fixed on their litads. They are then bound to a stake,. with faggots heaped around tiicm, and obliged, for the last tiuie, to sing their death song. The wari'iors, for such it is only Avho commonly sufl'er this punishment, now perform in a more pro- lix manner this sad solemnity. They recount with an audible voice all the brave actions they have per- fcrmed, and pride themselves in the number of ene- mies they have killed. In this rehearsal they spare not even their tormentors, but strive by e\ery pro- voking tale they can invent, to irritate and insult t!iem. Sometimes this lias the desired effect, and the liiilferers aie despatched sooner than thcyother- tvise would have been. Ttiere are many other methods which the Indians make use of to put their prisoners to death ; but these are only occasional 3 that of burning it niest gencriUIy used. K ^ ^ AMONG THE INDIANS. 81 ^riiis method of tormenting their enemies is con- sidered by the Indians as productive ol* more than one beneficial consequence. It satiates, in a greater degree, that diabolical lust of revenge, which is the predominant passion in the breast of every indivi- dual of every tribe ; and it gives the gro\\ ing war- riors an early propensity to that cruelty and thirst of blood, which is so necessary a qualification f(U* sucli as ^^ ould be thorou^ily skilled in their savage art of war. Notwithstanding these acts of severity exercised by the Indians towards those of their own species, who fall into their hands, some tribes of them have been very remarkable for their moderation to such female prisoners, belongingto the English colonies, as have happened to be taken by them. W omen of great beauty have frequently been carried off by tJiem, and during a marcli of three or four hundred miles, through their retired forests have lain by their sides without receiving any insnlt, and their ciiastity lias remained inviolate. Instances have hai)pened, where female captives, who have been pregnant at the time of their being taken, have found the pangs of child-birth come upon them in the midst of solitary ^voods, and savages their only companions ; yet from these savages as they were, have tliey reccn ed every assistance their situations would admit of, and been treated with a degree of delicacy and humanity they little expected. Those prisoners that are consigned to the house of grace, and tliese are commonly the young men, wo- iiien, and children, await the disposal of the chiefs, who after the execution of such as are condemned to die, hold^a council for this purpose. A herald is sent round the village or camp, to give notice that such as have lost any relative in the late expedition, are desired to attend the distri- bution, which is about to take place. Those wo- men who have lost their sons or husbands, are generally satisfied in the first place ; after these, such as'^have been deprived of friends of a more 82 NEW TRAVELS rciiioic degree of consanguinity, or who choose to adopt some of the youth. The division being made, which is done, as in other cases, without the least dispute, those who have received any share, lead them to their tents ov^ huts ; and having unbound them, wash and dress their wounds, if they happen to have any ; they then clothe them, and give the most comforta- ble and refreshing food tlieir store will afford. Whilst their new domestics are feeding, they endeavour to administer consolation to theiH } they tell them that as they are redeemed from death, they must now be cheerful and happy ; and if they serve them well without murmuring or repining, nothing shall be v,'anting to make them such atone- ment ibr the loss of their country and friends, as ciicumstanccs will allow" of. If any men are spared, they are commonly given to the v/idows that Juive lost their husbands by the liraids of the enemy, should there be any such, to whom, if they happen to prove agreeable, they are soon married. But should the dame be otlierwise engaged, the life of him, who falls to her lot is in great danger; especially if she fancies that her late luisband wants a slave in the country of spirits, to wliich he is gone. When this is the case, a number of young men take the devoted captive to some distance, and dis- patch him without any ceremony: after he has been spared by the council, they consider him of too little consequence to be entitled to the torments of those who have been judged worthy of them. The women are usually distributed to the men, from whom they do not fail of meeting with a fa- vourable reception. The boys and girls are taken into tlie families of such as have need of them, and are considered as slaves ; and it is not uncommon that they are sold in the same capacity to the American traders who come among them. The Indians have no idea of moderating the ravages of war, by sparing their prisoners, and AMONG THE INDIANS. 83 cntcrin.t^ into a iiegociation with the band from whom they have bei'u taken for an cxciiange. All that are captivated by both parties, are citlier put to death, adopted or made slaves of. And so par- ticular is every nation in tliis respect, that if any tribe, even a warrior, should be taken prisoner, and by chance be received into the house of grace, cither as an adopted person or a slave, and should afterwards make his escape, they will by no means iTceive him, or acknowledge him as one of their band. The condition of such as are adopted, differa not in any one instance from the children of the nation to which they belong. They assume all the rights of those whose jdaces they supply, and frequently make no difficulty in going in the war parties against their own countrymen. Should however, any of those by chance make their escape, and be afterwards retaken, they are esteemed as un- natural children, and ungrateful persons, who have deserted and made v.ai' itp'w'n their parents and bene- factors, and are treated with uncommon severity. That part of the prisoners which are considered as slaves, are g-enerally distributed among the chiefs ; who frequently make presents of some of them to the American governors of the out-posts or to the superintendants of Indian affairs. I have been informed that it was the Jesuits and Frencli missionaries that first occasioned the in- troduction of these unhappy captives into the set- (kments, and by so doing taught the Indians that they weixi valuable. Their vie^^s indeed were laudable, as they im- agined that by this method they should not only prevent niucli barbarity and bloodshed, but find the opportunities much inci-eased of spreading their re- ligion among them. To this purpose they have en- couraged the traders to purchase such slaves as they nict with. The good eftects of this mode of proceeding, where not however equal to tliQ expectations of 84 NEW TRAVELS these pious fatliers. Instead of being the means of preventing cruelty and bloodshed, it only caus- ed dissentions between the Indian nations to be carried on with a greater degree of violence and with unremitted ardour. The prize they fought for being no longer revenge or fame, but the ac- quirement of spirituous liquors, for which their captive were to be exchanged, and of which almost every nation is immoderately fond, they sought for their enemies with unwonted alacrity, and w-ere constantly on the watch to surprise and carry them off. It might still be said that fewer of the captives are tormented and put to death, since these expec- tations of receiving so valuable a consideration for them have been excited than there usually had been ; but it does not appear that their accustomed cruelty to the warriors they take, is in the least abatecl: their natural desire of vengeance must be gratified ; they now only become more assidious in securing a greater number of yourig prisoners whilst those who are made captive in their defence are tormented and put to death as befoi»e. And this, even in despite of the disgraceful esti- mation 5 for the Indians consider every conquered people as in a state of vassalage to their conquerors. After one nation has finally subdued another, and a conditional submission is agreed on, it is custom- ary for the chiefs of the conquered, when they sit in council with their subduers, to wear petticoats as an acknowledgement that they are in a state of subjection and ought to be ranked among the wo- men. Their partiality of the French has however taken too deep root for time itself to eradicate it. The wars tliat are carried on between the Indian nations are in general hereditary, and continue from age to age with a few interruptions. If a peace becomes necessary, the principal care of both parties is to avoid the appearance of making the first advances. When tUey treat with an enemy relative to a sus- AMONG THE INDIANS. 85 pension of hostilities, the chief who is commission- ed to inulvTtake the negociation, if it is not brought about oy the mediation of some neighbouring band, abates n thing of his natural haughtiness, even when the affairs of his country are in the worst situation, he makes no concessions, but endeavours to persuade his advessaries that it is their interest to put an end to the war. Accidents sometimes contribute to bring about a peace between nations that otherwise could not be prevailed on to listen to terms of accommodation. Sometimes the Indians grow tired of a war, which they have carried on against some neighbouring na- tion for many years without much success, and in this case they seek for mediators to begin a negotia- tion. These being obtained, the treaty is thus con- ducted : A number of their own cliicfs, joined by those who have accepted the friendly office, set out toge- ther for the enemies' country ; such as are chosen for this purpose, are chiefs of the most extensive abilities, and of the greatest integrity. They bear before them the Pipe of peace, which I need not in- form my readers is of tiie same nature as a flag of truce among the Americans, and is treated with the greatest respect and veneration, even by the most barbarous nations. I never heard of an instance wherein the bearers of this sacred badge of friend- ship were ever treated disrespectfully, or its rights violated. The Indians believe that tlie Great Spirit never suffers an infraction of this kind to go un- punislicd. The Pipe of peace, whicli is termed by them the Calmet, for what reason I could never learn, is aboiv]io eacli take a piece and preserve it w itli care. 1 he bride is then reconducted out of the door at which she entered, where her young companions wait to attend her to her father's house ; there the bridegroom is obliged to seek her, and the marriage s eonsunimated. Ver^y often the wife remains at .xer father's house till she has a child, when she packs I!]) her apparel, v» Idch is all the fortune she is generally possessed of, and accompanies her has- ];andto his liabitation. "When from any dislike a separation takes place, for they are seldom known to quarrel, tliey gene- rally give tlK ir friends a few days notice of their intentions, and sometimes offer reasons to justify their conduct. Tlie witnesses, v, ho were present at the marriage, meet on tlie day requested, at the house of the couple that are about to separate, and bringing with them the pieces of rod which they had received at their nuptials, throw them into the fire in the presence of all the parties. I'his is the whole of the ceremony required, and the separation is carried on without any niurmur- ings, or ill will between the couple or the relations; and after a few months they are at liberty to marry *:gain. When a marriage is thus dissolved, the children wldch have been produced from it, are equally divi- ded between them ; and as cliildien are esteemed a treasure by the Indians, if the number happens to be odd, the woman is allowed to take better half. Though this custom seems to encourage fickleness end frequent separations, yet there are many of the Indians, who have but one wife, and enjoy with her a state of connubial happiness, not to be exceeded iii more i-efined societies. There arc also, not a few instances of women preserving an inviolable attach ~ ments to tlieir husbands, except in the cases before AMONG THE INDIANS. 9i mentioned, wliich are not considered as cither a violation of their chastity or fidelity. Altliough I have said that the Indian nations dif- fer very little from each other in their marriage ceremonies, there are some exceptions. The Nau- dowessies have a singular method of celebrating their marriages, which seems to bear no resem- blance to those made use of by any other nation I passed through. >yhen one of their young men has fixed on a young woman he approves of, he dis- covers liis passion to her parents, who give him an invitation to come and live with them in their tvnt. He accordingly accepts the offer, and by so doing engages to reside in it for a whole year, in the cha- racter of a menial servant. During this time he hunts, and brings all the game he kills to the family : by which means the father has an opportunity of seeing whether he is able to provide for the support of his daughter and the children that might be the consequence of their union. This however is only done whilst they are young men and for their first wife, and not repeated like Jacob's servitude. When this period is expired, the marriage is so- lemnized after the custom of the country, in the following manner : three or four of the oldest male relations of the bridegroom, and as many of the bride's, accompany the young couple from their re- spective tents, to an open part in the centre of the camp. . The chiefs and warriors, being here assembled to receive them, a party of the latter are drawn up in two ranks on each side of the bride and bridegroom immediately on their arrival. Their principal chief then acquaints the whole assembly with the design of their meeting, and tells them tliat the cou- ple before them, mentioning at the same time their names, are come to avow publicly their intentions of living together as man and wife. He then asks the two young people alternately, whether they de- sire tlkat the union might take place. Having de- clared with an audible voice that they do so, the H 2 93 ISEW TRAVELS warriors fix their arrows, and discharge theui over the heads of the married pair : this done, the chief pronounces them man and wife. The bridegroom then turns round, and bending liis body, takes his wife on his back, in which manner he carries her amidst the acclamations of the spectators to his tent. Tiie ceremony is suc- ceeded by the most plentiful feast the new married man can afford : and songs and dances, according to the usual custom conclude the festival. Among the Indians, as well as European na- tions, there are many that devote themselves to pleasure, and notwithstanding tlie accounts given by some modern writers of the frigidity of an In- dian's constitution, become the zealous votaries if Venus. The young warriors that are thus dis- posed, seldom want opportunities for gratifying their passion : and as the mode usually followed >n these occasions is rather singular, I shall de- cribe it. *• Wlien one of these young debauchees ima- irines, from the behaviour of the person he has hosen for his mistress, that lie shall not meet with any great obstruction to his suit from her, he pursues the following plan. " It has been already observed that the Indians acknowledge no superiority; nor have they any ideas of subordination, except in the necessary regulations of their war or hunting parties; they ;;onsequently live nearly in a state of equality, pursuant to the first principles of nature. The lover therefore is not apprehensive of any check or control in the accomplishment of his ])urposes, if he can find a convenient opportunity for com- ])leting them. ** As the Indians are also under no apprehen- sion of robbers, or secret ennemies, they leave 1 hi' doors of their tents cr huts unfastened during tlie night, as well as in tlie day. Two or three houi^ after sunset, the old jieople cover over the AMONG THE INDIANS. 9S fire, that is generally burning in the midst of their apartment, wit'i ashes, and retire to their repose. ** Whilst darkness thus prevails, and all is quiet, one of these sons of pleasure, wrapped up closely in his blanket, to prevent his being known, will sometimes enter the apartment of his intended mis- tiness. Having first lighted at the smothered fire a small splinter of wood, which answers the pur- pose of a match, he approaches the place where she reposes, and gently pulling away the covering from the head, jogs her till she awakes. If she then rises up, and blows out the light, he needs no further confirmation that his company is not disagreeable ; but if after he lias discovered him- self she hides her head, and takes no notice of him, he miglit rest assured that any further solicitations will prove vain, and that it is necessary imme- diately for him to retire. During his stay he conceals the light as much as possible in the hollow of his hands ; and as the tents or I'ooms of the Indians are usually large and capacious, he es- capes without detection. It is said that the young women who admit their lovers on these occasions, take great care, by an immediate application to Iierbs, with the potent eflicacy of wliich they are well acquainted, to prevent the effects of these illi- cit amours from becoming visible ; for shoukl tlie natural consequences ensue, they must forever re- main unmarried." The children of the Indians are ahvays distin- guished by the name of the mother ; and if a woman marries several husbands, and has issue by each of them, they are called after her. The reason they give for this is, that as their offspring are indebted to the father for their souls, the in- visible part of their essence, and to the mother for their corporeal and apparent part, it is more ra- tional that they should be distinguished by the name of the latter, from whom they indubitably derive their being, than by that of the father^ 9^ NEW TRAVELS to which a doubt might sometimes arise whether they are justly entitled. There are some cei'emonies made use of by the Indians at the opposition of the name» and it is considered by them as a matter of great impor- tance but what these are I could never learn, through the secrecy observed on the occasion. I oiily know that it s ust a y given when the children have passed the state of infancy. Nothing can exceed the tenderness shown by them to their ofspring ; and a person cannot re- commend himself to their favour by any method more certain, than by paying some attention to the younger branches of their families. There is some difficulty attends an explanation of the manner in which the Indians distinguish themselves from each other. Besides the name of the animal by which every nation and tribe is de- nominated, there are others that are personal,^ and which the children receive from their mother. The chiefs are also distinguished by a name that has either some reference to their abilities, or to the hieroglyphic of their families; and these are acquired after they arrive at the age of man- hood. Such as have signalized themselves either in their war or hunting parties, or are possessed of some eminent qualifications receive a name that serves to perpetuate tlie fame of these actions, or to make their abilities conspicuous. It is certain the Indians acknowledge one Su- preme Being, or Giver of Life, who presides over all things. That is, the Great Spirit ; and they look up to him as the source of good, from whom no evil can proceed, They also believe in a bad spirit, to whom they ascribe great power, and suppose that tlirough his means all the evils which befal mankind are inflicted. To him therefore do they pray in their distresses, begging that he would eitlier avert their troubles, or moderate them when they are no longer avoidable. They say that the Great Spirit, who is infinitely AMONG THE INDIANS. 95 gX)od, neither wishes nor is able to do any mischief to mankind 5 but on the contrary, that lie showers down on them all the blessings they deserve; wliereas the evil spirit is continually employed in contriving how he may punish the human race ; and to do which he is not only possessed of the will, but of the power. They hold also that there are good spirits of a lesser degree, wlio have their particular depart- ments, in which tliey are constantly contributing to the happiness of mortals. These they suppose to preside over all the extraordinary productions of nature, such as those lakes, riyer», or moun- tains that are of an uncommon magnitude ; and likewise the beasts, birds, fishes, and even vegeta- bles, or stones that exceed the rest of their species in size or singularity. To all of these they pay some kind of adoration. But at the same time I fancy that the ideas they annex to the word spirit, are very different from the conceptions more enlightened nations enter- tain of it. They appear to fashion to themselves corporeal representations of their gods, and be- lieve them to be of a human form, though of a nature more excellent than man. Of VaQ same kind are their sentiments relative to a futurity. They doubt not but they shall exist in some future state; they however fancy that their employments there will be somewhat similar to those they are engaged in here, without the la- bour and difficulties annexed to them in this period of their existence. They consequently expect to be translated to a delightful country, where they shall always have a clear, unclouded sky, and enjoy a perpetual spring ; where the forests w ill abound with game, and the lakes with fish, which might be taken without a painful exertion of skill, or a laborious pursuit ; in short that they shall live forever in regions of plenty, and enjoy every gratification they delight in here, in a greater degree/ 96 NEW TRAVELS To intellectual pleasures they ai'e stranger ; nor are these included in tlieir scheme of happiness. But they expect that even these animal pleasures will he proportioned and distrihuted according to their merit; the skillful hunter, the bold and suc- cessful warrior, will be entitled to a greater share than those who through indolence or want of skill cannot boast of any superiority over the common herd. The Priests of the Indians are at the same time their physicians, and their conjurers ; whilst they heal their wounds, or cure their diseases, they interpret their dreams, give them protective charms, and satisfy that desire which is so preva- lent among them of searching into futurity. How well they execute the latter part of their professional engagements, and the methods they make use of on some of these occasions, I have already shewn in the exertions of the priest of the Killistinoes, who was fortunate enough to succeed in his extraordinary attempt near Lake Superior. They frequently are successful, likewise in admin- istering the salubrious herbs they have acquired a knowledge of; but that the ceremonies they make use of during the administration of them contributes to their success, I shall not take upon me to assert. When any of the people are ill, the person who is invested with this triple character of doctor, priest and magician, sits by the patient day and night, rattling in his ears a goad shell filled with di'y beans, called a Chichicoue, and making a dis- agreeable noise that cannot be well described. This uncouth harmony one would imagine should disturb the sick person and prevent tlie good effects of the doctor's prescription ; but on the contrary they believe that the method made use of, contributes to his recovery, by diverting from his malignant purposes the evil spirit who has inflicted the disorder; or at least that it will take off his attention, so that he shall not increase the AMONG THE INDIANS. 97 malady. This they are credulous enough to ima- gine he is constanly on tlie watch to do, and would carry his invetaracy to a fatal length if they did not thus charm him. I could not discover that they make use of any other religious ceremonies than those I have de- scribed ; indeed on the appearance of the new moon they dance and sing ; but it is not evident that they pay that planet any adoration^ they only seem to rejoice at the return of a luminary that makes the night cheerful, and which serves to light them on their wayw^hen they travel during the absence of the suu. Notwithstanding Mr. Adair has asserted that the nations am»>ng whom he resided, observe with very little variation all the rites appointed by the Mosaic Law, I own I could never discover among the tribes that lie but a few degrees to the north west, the least traces of the Jewish religion, ex- cept it be admitted that one particular female custom, and their divisions into tribes carry with them proof sufficient to establish this assertion. The Jesuits and French Missionaries have also pretended, that the Indians had, when they first travelled into America, some notions, though these were dark and confused, of the Christian institution ; that they have been greatly agitated at the sight of a cross, and given proofs by the impressions made on them that they were not en- tirely unacquainted with the sacred mysteries of Christianity. I need not say that these are too glaring absurdities to be credited, and could only receive their existence from the zeal of those fa- tliers, who endeavoured at once to give tlie public a better opinion of the success of their missions, aiul support to tlie cause they were engaged in. The Indians appear to be in their religious prin- ciples, rude and uninstructed. The doctrines they hold are few and simple, and such as have been generally impressed on the human mind, by some means or other, in the most ignorant ages. They 98 NEW TRAVELS however have not deviated, as many other uncivil- ized nations; and too many civilized ones have done, into idolatrous modes of worship; they- ven- erate indeed and make offerina;s to the wonderful parts of the creation, as I have hefore observed ; but whether these rights are performed on account of the impressions sueh extraordinary appearances make on them, or whether they consider them as the peculiar charge, or the usual place of residence of the invisible spirits they acknowledge, I cannot possitivcly determine. The human mind in its uncultivated state is apt to ascribe the extraordinary occurrences of nature, such as eartliquakesj thunder, or hurricanes, to the interposition of unseen beings; .the troubles and disasters also that are annexed to a savage life, the apprehensions attendant on the precarious subsistence, and those numberless inconveniences which man in his improved state has found means to remedy, are supposed to proceed from the inter- position of evil spirits ; the savage, consequently, lives in continual apprehensions of tlieir unkind attacks, and to avert them has recourse to charms, to tlie fantastic ceremonies of his priest, or the powerful influence of his Manifcous. Fear has of course a greater share in his devotions than grati- tude, and he pays moi^e attention to deprecating the wi'ath of the evil, than to securing the favour of the good beings. The Indians, however, entertain these absur- dities in common with those of every part of the globe who have not been illuminated with that reli- gion, which can only disperse the clouds of super- stition and ignorance, and th^y are as free from error as people can be, that have not been favoured with its instructive doctrines. In Tenobscot, a settlement in the province of Maine, in the north east parts of New England, the wife of a soldier was taken in labour, and not- withstanding every necessary assistance was given her, could not be delivered In this situation she AMONG THE INDIANS. 99 i^maiiied for two or three days, the persons around her expecting that the next pang would put an end to her existence. An Indian woman, who accidentally passed by, heard the groans of the unhappy suiferer, and en- quired from whence they proceeiled. Being made acquainted with the desperate circumstance attend- ing the case, she told the informant that if she might be permitted to see the person, she did not doubt but that she should be of great service to her. The surgeon that had attended, and the mid- wife who was then present, having given up every hope of preserving their patient, the Indian wo- man was pJloiwed to make use of any methods she thought proper. She accordingly took a handker- cJiief, and bound it tight over the nose and mouth of tlie woman 5 this immediately brought on a suf- focation ; and from the struggles that consequently ensued she was in a few" seconds delivered. The moment this was atchieved, and time enough to pre- vent any fatal effect, tlie handkerchief was taken off. «The long suffering patient thus happily re- lieved from her pains, soon after perfectly recov- ered, to the astonishment of those who had been witnesses to her desperate situation. The reason given by the Indian for tliis hazar- dous method of proceeding, was, that desperate disorders require desperate remedies ; tliat as she observed the exertions of nature were not suf- ficiently forcible to effect the desired consequence, she theught it necessary to augment their force, which could only be done by some mode that was violent in the extreme. An Indian meets death when it approaches liim in his hut with the same resolution he has often faced him in the field. His indifference relative to this important article which is the source of so many apprehensions to almost every other nation is truly admirable. When his fate is pronounced by the physician and it remains no longer uncertain, he iOO NEW TRAVELS harangues those about him with the greatest com- posure. If he be a chief and has a family, he makes a hind of funeral oration, which he concludes by giving to his children such advice for the regula- tion of their conduct as he thinks necessary. He tlien takes leave of his friends, and issues out or- ders for the preparation of a feast, which is de- signed to regale those of his tribe that can come to pronounce his eulogium. The character of the Indians, like that of other uncivilized nations, is composed of a mixture of ferocity and gentleness. They arc at once guided by passions and appetites, which they hold in com- mon with the fiercest beast that inhabit the woods, and are possessed of virtues which do honour to human nature. In the following estimate I shall endeavour to forget, on the one hand, the prejudices of the Americans, wlio usually a,nnex to the word Indian, epithets that are disgraceful to human nature, and wlio view them in no other light tlian as savages and canijibals, whilst with equal care I avoi(l my partiality* towards them, as some must naturally arise from the favourable reception I met with during my stay among them. That the Indians are of a cruel revengeful, inex- X)rfd)le disposition, tJiat they will watch whole days unmindful of the calls of nature, and make their way through pathless, and almost unbounded woods, subsisting only on the scanty produce of them, to pursue and avenge themselves of an en- emy ; that they hear unmoved the piercing cries of ,^ such as unhappily fall into their liands, and receive a diabolical pleasure from the tortures they inflict on tlieir prisoners, I readily grant ; but let us look on the reverse of this terrifying pictui-e, and we shall find them temperate both in their diet and po- tations, (it must be remembered that I speak of those tribes who have little or no communication with Americansj that they withstand, with unexampled AMONG THE INDIANS. iai patience, the attacks of hunger, or the inclemency of the seasons, and esteem the gratification of their appetites but as a secondary consideration. We shall likewise see them social and humane to those whom they consider as their friends, and even to their adopted enemies ; and ready to par- take with them of the last morsel, or to risk their lives in their defence. In contradiction to the report of many other travellers, all of which have been tinctured with prejudice, I can assert, that notwithstanding the apparent indifference with which an Indian meets his wife and children after a long absence, an indifference proceeding rather from custom than insensibility, he is not unmindful of the claims either of connubial or parental tenderness. Accustomed from their youth to innumerable hardships, they soon become superior to a sense of danger, or the dread of death ; and their for- titude, implanted by nature, and nurtuj*ed by ex- ample, by precept and accident, never experience a iftoment's allay. Though slothful and inactive whilst their stores of provision remain unexausted, and their foes are at a distance, they are indefatigable and persevering in pursuit of their game or in circumventing tlieir enemies. If they are artful and designing, and ready to take every advantage, if they are cool and delibe- rate in their councils, and cautious in the extreme, either of discovering their sentiments, or of re- vealing a secret, they might at the same time boast of possessing qualifications of a more animated na- ture, of the sagacity of a hound, the penetrating sight of a lynx, the cunning of a fox, the agil- ity of a bounding roe, and the unconquerable fierceness of the tiger. In their public characters, as forming part of a community, they possess an attachment for that band to which they belong, unknown to the inhabi- tants of any other cowntry. They combine, as if 102 NEW TRAVELS they were actuated only by one soul, against the enemies of their nation, and banish from their minds every consideration opposed to this. They consult without unnecessary opposition, or without giving way to the excitements of envy or ambition, on tlie measures necessary to be pursued for the desti'uction of those wlio have drawn on themselves their displeasure. No selfish views ever influence their advice, or obstruct their con- sultations. Nor is it in the power of bribes or threats to diminish the love they bear their coun- try. The honour of their tribe, and the wellfare of their nation, is the first and most predominant emotion of their hearts ; and from hence proceed in a great measure all their virtues and their vices. Actuated by this, they brave every danger, endure the most exquisite torments, and expire triumphing in their fortitude, not as a personal qualification, but as a national characteristic. From thence also flows that insatiable revenge to- wards those with whom they are at war, and alHhe consequent horrors that disgrace their name. Their uncultivated mind being incapable of judging of the propriety of an action, in opposition to their pas- sions, which are totally insensible of the controuls of reason and humanity, they know not how to keep their fury within any bounds, and conse- quently that courage and resolution, which would otherwise do them honour, degenerates into a sa- vage ferocity. But this short disertation must suffice : tlie li- mits of my work will not permit me to treat the subject more copiously, or to pursue it with a logi- cal regularity. The observations already made by my readers on preceeding pages, will, I trust ren- der it unnecessary ; as by them they will be enabled to form a tolerable just idea of the people I have been describing. Experience teaches that anec- dotes, and relations of particular events, howevey trifling they might appear, enable us to form a AMONG THE INDIANS. 103 truer judgment of the manners and customs of a people, and are much more declaratory of their real state, than the most studied and elaborate dis* quisitions, without these aids. The two subjoined delineations, of two Tribes of In- dians who inhabit the country on this side the Rocky mountains, is a summarij^from the pen ofMacken- %ie. The Knistenaux are of a moderate stature, well proportioned, and of great activity. Exam- ples of deformity are seldom to be seen among them. Their complexion is of a copper colour and tJieir hair black, which is common to all the natives of North America. It is cut in various forms ac- cording to the fancy of the several tribes, and by some is left in the long, lank flow of nature. Tiieir eyes are black, keen, and penetrating; their coun- tenance open and agreeable, and it is a principal object of their vanity to give every possible deco- ration to theii' persons. A material article in their toilets is Vermillion, which they contrast with their native blue, white, and brown earths, to which charcoal is frequently added. Their dress is at once simple and commodious. It consists of tight leggins, reaching near the hip ; a strip of cloth or leather, called assian, about a foot wide, and five feet long, whose ends are drav/n inwards, and hang behind and before, over a belt tied round the waist for that purpose ; a close vest or shirting reaching down the former garment and tinctured with a broad strip of parchment fastened with thongs behind : and a cap for the head, con- sisting of a piece of fur, or small skin, with the brush of the animal as a suspended ornament: a kind of robe is thrown occasionally over the whole of the dress, and serves both night and day. These articles, with the addition of shoes and mittens, con- stitute the variety of theii* apparel. The m-ateiials I 2 104 NEW TRAVELS vary according to the season, and consists of dres- sed moose-skin, beaver prepared with the fur, or European woollens. The leather is neatly painted, and fancifully worked in some parts with porcu- pine-quills, and moose-deer hair ; the shirts and Icj^gins are also adorned with fringe and tassels ; nor are the shoes and mittens without somewhat of appropriate decoration, and worked with a con- siderable degree of skill and taste. These habili- ments are put on, however, as fancy or convenience suggests ; and they will sometimes proceed to the ehase in the severest frost, covered only with the slightest of them. Their head-dresses are compo- sed of the feathers of the swan, the eagle, and other birds. The teeth, horns, and claws of dif- ferent animals, are also the occasional ornaments of the head and neck. Their hair, however ar- ranged, is always besmeared with grease. The making of every article of dress is a female occu- pation ; and the women, though by no means inat- tentive to the decoration of their own persons, ap- pear to have a still greater degree of pride in at- tending to the appearances of the men, whose faces arc painted with more care than those of the women. The female dress is formed of the same materials as those of the other sex, but of a different make and arrangement. Their shoes are commonly plain, and tlieir leggins gai'tered beneath the knees. TIic coat or body covering falls down to the middle of the leg, and is fastened over the shoiddei's with cords, a flap or cape turning down about eight inches, both before and behind, and agreeably or- namented with quill-work and fringe; the bottom is also fringed and fancifully painted as high as the knee. As it is very loose, it is enclosed round the waist with a stiff belt, decorated with tassels, and fastened behind. The arms are covered to the wrist with detatched sleeves, which are sewed as far as the bend of the arm ; from thence they are drawn up to the neck, and the corners of them fall down behind as low as the waist The cap, AMONG THE INDIANS. 105 when they wear one, consists of a certain quantity of leather or cloth, sewed at one end, by which means it is kept on the head, and, hanging down the back, is fastened to the belt, as well as under the chin. The upper garment is a robe like that worn by the men. Their hair is divided on the crown, and tied behind, or sometimes fastened in large knots over the ears. They are fond of Eu- pean articles, and prefer them to their own native commodities. Their ornaments consist, in common with all other savages, in bracelets, ring, and similar baubles. Some of the women tattoo tliree perpendicular lines, which are sometimes double ; one from the centre of the chin to that of the under lip, and one parallel on either side to the corner of the mouth. Of all the nations which I have seen on this continent, the Knisteneaux women ai^ the most comely. Their figure is generally well pro])or" tioned, and the regularity of their features would be acknowleged by the more civilized people of Europe. Their complexion has less of that dark tinge which is common to those savages who have less cleanly habits. These people, are, in general, sobject to few disorders. The lues venerea, however, is a com- mon complaint, but cured by the application of simples, with whose virtues they appear to be well acquainted ; they are also subject to fluxes', and pains in the breast, which some have attributed to the very cold and keen air which they inhale ; but I should imagine that these complaints must frequently proceed from their immoderate indul- gence in fat meats at their feasts^ particularly when they have been preceded by long fasting. They are naturally mild and affable, as well as just in their dealings, not only among themselves, but with strangers.* They are also generous and * They have been called thieves, but when that vice can with justics be attributed to them, it may be traced totUeir 106 NEW TRAVELS hospitable, and good-natured in the extreme, ex- cept w hen their nature is perverted by the inflam^ matory influence of spiritous liquors. To their children they are indulgent to a fault. The father^ though he assumes no command over them, is ever anxious to instruct them in all the preparatory qualifications for war and hunting ; while the mo- tlrer is equally attentive to her daughters in teach^ ing them every thing that is considered as neces* sary to their character and situation. It does not appear that the husband makes any distinction be^ twe.en the children of his wife, though they may be the offspring of different fathers. Illegitimacy is only attached to those who are born before their mothers have cohabited with any man by the title of husband. It does not appear, that chastity is considered by them as a virtue ; or that fidelity is believed to be essential to the happiness of a wedded life. Though it sometimes happens that the infidelity of the wife is pimished by the husband with the loss of her hair, nose, and perhaps life ; siich severity pro- ceeds from its liaving been practised without his permission: for a temporary interchange of wives is not uncommon ; and the offer of their pervsons is considered as a necessary part of the hospitality due to strangers. When a man loses his wife, it is considered as a duty to marry her sister, if she has one ; or he may, if he pleases, have them both at the same time. It will appear from the fatal consequences I have repeatedly imputed to the use of spiritous liquors, that I more particularly considered these people as having been, morally speaking, great sufferers from their communication with the subjects of civi- lized nations; At the same time they were not, in a state of nature, without their vices, and some of them of a kind which are the most abhorrent to connexion with tlie civilized people, who come into their coun- try to traffic. AMONG TIIE INDIANS. 107 cultivated and reflecting* man. I shall only observe, that incest and bestiality are amoni^ them. When a young man marries, he immediately goes to live with the father and mother of his wife, who treat him, nevertlieless, as a perfect stranger, until after the birth of his first child : he then at- taches himself more to them than to his own pa- rents ; and his wife no longer gives him any other denomination than that of the father of her child. The profession of the men in war and Imnting, and the more active scene of their duty is the field of battle, and the chase in the woods. They also spear fish, but t!ie management of the nets is left to the women. The females of this nation are in the same subordinate state with those of all other savage tribes ; but the severity of their labour is much diminished by their situation on the banks of lakes and rivers, where they employ canoes. In the winter, when the waters are frozen they make their journeys, which are never of any great lengthy with sledges drawn by dogs. They are at the same time, subject to every kind of domestic drudgery ; they dress the leather, make the clothes and shoes, weave the nets, collect wood, erect the tents, fetch water, and perform every culinary ser- vice ; so that when the duties of maternal care are added, it will appear tha.t tlie life of these women is an uninterrupted succession of toil and pain. This, indeed is the sense they entertain of their own situation ; and, under the influence of that senti- ment, they are sometimes known to destroy their female children, to save them from the miseries wliich they themselves hav e suffered. Tliey also have a ready way, by the use of certain simples, of procuring abortions, which they sometimes practise, from their hatred of the father, or to save themselves the trouble which children occasion; and, as I have been credibly informed, this unna- tural act is repeated without any injury to the health of tbe women who perpetrate it. The funeral rites begin, like all other solemn ce- 108 NEW TRAVELS remonials, with smoking, and arc concluded by a feast. The body is dressed in the best habiliments possessed by the deceased, or his relations, and is then deposited in a grave, lined with branches; some domestic utensils are placed on it, and a kind of canopy erected over it. During this ceremony, great lamentations are made ; and if the departed person is very much regretted, the near relations cut off their hair, pierce the fleshy part of their thiglis and arms with arrows, knives, &c. and blacken their face with charcoal. If tiiey have dis- tinguished themselves in war, they are sometimes on a kind of scaffolding ,* and I have been informed that women in the east, have been known to sacri- fice themselves to the manes of their husbands. The whole of tlie property belonging to the departed person is destroyed ; and the relations take in ex- change for the wearing apparel, any rags that will cover their nakedness. The feast bestowed on the occasion, which is, or at least used to be, repeated annually, is accompanied with eulogiums on the de- ceased, and without any acts of ferocity. On the tomb is carved or painted, the symbols of his tribe, which are taken from the different animals of the country. Many and various are the motives which induce a savage to engage in war : to prove his courage or to revenge the death of his relations, or some of his tribe, by the massacre of an enemy. If the tribe feels itself called upon to go to war, tlie elders con- vene the people, in order to know the general opi- nion. If it be for war, the chief publishes his in- tention to smoke in the sacred stem at a certain period, to which solemnity, meditation and fasting are required as preparatory ceremonials. When the people are thus assembled, and the meeting sanctified by the custom of smoking, the chief en- larges on the causes which have called them toge- ther, and the necessity of the measures proposed on the occasion. jl He then invites those who are willing to folio's? ^{ ^ONG THE INDIANS. 109 him, to smoke out of the sacred stem, which is con- sidered asthetokeiiof enrohnent; and if it should be the general opinion, that assistance is necessary, others' are invited with gi-eat formality, to join them. Every individual who attends these meet« ings brings something with him as a token of his warlike intentions, or as an object of sacrifice, which, when the assembly dissolves, is suspended from poles near the place of council. They have frequently feasts, and particular cir- cumstances never fail to produce them ; such as a tedious illness, long fasting, &c. On these occa- sions it is usual for the person who means to give the entertainment, to announce his design, on a certain day of opening the medicine bag and smok- ing out his sacred stem. This declaration is con- sidered as a sacred vow that cannot be broken. There are also stated periods, such as the spring and autumn, when they engage in very long and solemn ceremonies. On these occasions dogs are offered as sacrifices ; and those which are very fat, and milk white, are preferred. They also make large offerings of their property, whatever it may be. The scene of these ceremonies is in an open enclosure on the bank of a river or lake, and in the most conspicuous situation, in order that such as are passing along or travelling, may be induced to make their offerings. These is also a particular custom among them, that on these occasions, if any of the tribe, or even a stranger, should be passing by, and be in real want of any thing that is dis- played as an offering, he has a right to take it, so that he replaces it with some article he can spare, though it be of far inferior value : but to take or touch any thing wantonly, is considered as a sacri- legious act, and highly insulting to the great Mas- ter of Life, to use their own expression, who is the sacred object of their devotion. The scene of private sacrifice is the lodge of the person who performs it, which is prepared for that purpose by removing every thing out of it, and 110 NEW TRAVELS spreading green branches in every part. The fire and ashes are also taken away. A new hearth is made of fresh earth, and another fire is lighted. The owner of the dwelling remains alone in it ; and he begins the ceremony by spreading a piece of new cloth, or a w ell-dressed moose-skin neatly painted, on which he opens his medicine-bag and exposes its contents, consisting of various articles. The principle of them is a kind of household god, which is a small carved image about eiglit inches long. Its first covering is of down, over which a piece of birch bark is closely tied ; and the whole is enve- loped in several folds of red and blue cloth. Tliis little figure is an object of the most pious regard. The next artiele is his war-cap, which is decorated with the feathers and plumes of scarce birds, beavei^, and eagles' claws, &c. There is also sus-^ tended from it a quill or feather for every enemy : ,#liom the owner of it has slain in battle. The re- maining contents of the bag are, a piece of Brazil tobacco, several roots and simples, wjj^ich are in great estimation for the medicinal qualities, and a pipe. These articles being all exposed, and the stem resting upon two forks, as it must not touch the ground, the master of the lodge sends for the person he most esteems, who sits down opposite to him, the pipe is then filled and fixed to the stem. A pair of wooden pincers is provided to put the fire in the pip^iand a double pointed pin, to empty it of the remnant of tobacco which is not consumed. This arrangement being made, the men assemble, and sometimes the women a,re allowed to be humble spectators, while the most religious awe and so- lemnity pervade the wliole. The Michiniwais, or Assistant, takes up tlie pipe, lights it, and presents it to the officiating person, who receives it stand- iin{^9 and holds it between both his hands. He then turns himself to the east, and draws a few whif!s$ which he blows to that point. Tlie same ccromony he observes to the other three quarters, with his eyes directed upwards during the whole of it. He AMONG THE INDIANS. Hi holds the stem about the middle between the three &st fingers of both hands, and raising them upon aline with his forehead, he swings it three times round from the east, with the sun, when, after pointing and balancing it in various directions, he reposes it on the forks ; he then makes a speech to explain the design of their being called together, which concludes with an acknowledgment of past mercies, and a prayer for the continuance of them from the Master of Life. He then sits down ; and the whole company declare their approbation and thanks by uttering the word ho ! with an emphatic prolongation of the last letter. The Michiniwais then takes up the pipe and holds it to the mouth of the officiating* person, ^^o, after smoking three whiffs out of it, utters a short prayer, and then goes ai'ound witli it, taking his course from east to west, to every person present, wJio individually says something to liim on the occasion ; and thus Jie pipe is generally smoked out; when after tunir^ nig it three or four times round his liead, he dropsW it downwards and replaces it in its original situa- tion. He then thanks the company for their atten- dance, and wishes them, as well as the whole tribe, health and long life. These smoking rites precede every matter of great importance, with more or less ceremony, but always with equal solemnity. The utility of them will appear from the following relation : If a chief is anxious to knov/ the disposition of his people towards him, or he wishes to settle any difference between them, he announces iiis inten- tion of opening his medicine-bag and smoking in his saci^d stem ; and no man who entertains a grudge against any of the piu'ty thus assembled, can smoke with the sacred stem ; as that cei*emony dissipates all differences, and is never violated. ♦ No one can avoid attending on these occasions; but a person may attend and be excused from as- sisting at the ceremonies, by acknowledging that he has not undergone the necessary purificati n. K 115J NEW TRAVELS The having cohabited with his wife, or any^Qthcr woman, within twenty -four hours preceding me ce- re mony, renders him unclean, and, consequently disqualifies him from performing any part of it. If a contract is entered into and solemnized by the ceremony of smoking, it never fails of being faith- fully fullilled. If a person, previous to his going on ^journey, leaves the sacred stem as a pledge of his return, no cor sideration whatever will prevent him from executing his engagement.* I'he chief, when he proposes to make a feast, sends quills, or small pieces of wood, as tokens of invitation to such as he wishes to partake of it. At the appointed time the guests arrive, jeach bringing a dish or platter, and a knife, and take their seats on each side of the chief,^ho receives them sitting, accoi ding to their respective ages. The pipe is then lighted, and he makes an equal division of everything that is provided. While the company ^^xre enjoying th.eir meaJ, the chief sings, and ac-w^| "Companies his song with the tamborine, or shishi- ^^ nuoi, or rattle. The guest who has first eaten his ^ portion is considered as the most distinguished per- > son. If there should be any who cannot finish the | w hole of their mess, they endeavour to prevail on i some of their friends to eat it for them, who are re- t vvarded for their assistance with ammunition and tobacco. It is proper also to remark, that at these feasts a small quantity of meat offering is sacrificed, before they begin to eat by tlirowing it into the fire, or on the eartli. These feasts differ according to circumstances ; sometimes each man's allowance is no more than he can despatch in a couple of hours. yVt other times the quantity is sufiicient to supply each of thcra with food for a week, though it must be devoured in a day. On these occasions it is very difticult to procure substitutes, and the whole must * It is however to be lamented, that of late there is a relax- "xKSon o^■ the duties originally attached to these festivals. AMONG THE INDIANS. 115 be eaten whatever time it may require. At some of these entertainments there is a more rational ar- rangement, when the guests are allowed to .carry home with them the superfluous part of their por- tions. Great care is always taken that the bones may be burned, as it would be considered a profa- nation were the dogs permitted to touch tliem. The public feasts are conducted in the same man- ner, but with some additional ceremony. Several chiefs officiate at them, and procure the necessary provisions, as well as prepare a proper place of re~ ception for the numerous company. Here the guests discourse upon public topics, repeat the heroic deeds of their forefathers, and excite the rising gen- eration to follow their example. The entertain- ments on these occasions consist of dried meats, as it would not be practicable to dress a sufficient quantity of fresh meat for such a large assembly ; tnough the women and children are excluded. Similar feasts used to be made at funerals, and annually, in honour of the dead; but they have been, for sometime, growing into disuse, and I ne- ver had an opportunity of being present at any of them. The women, who are forbinden to enter the places sacred to these festivals, dance and sing around them, and sometimes beat time to the music within them ; which forms an agreeable contrast. With respect to their divisions of time, they com- pute the length of journies by the number of nights passed in performing them ; and they divide the year by their own succession of moons. In this calculation, however, they are not altogether cor- rect, as they cannot account for odd days. The names which they give to the moons, are de- scriptive of the several seasons, and as follows : May . . <. Frog Moon. June . . '. 1 The moon in wliich birds J begin to lay their e^gs^ 114 NEW TRAVELS Jiiiy I The moon when birds cast J their feathers. Airgust . . \ The moon when the young J birds begin to fly. September ") The moon w hen the Moose J Deer cast their horns. October . The rotting moon. iVovember Hoar-frost moon. Oecember Whirlwind moon. Janiiarv Extreme cold moon. February 1 Big moon ; some say. Old J moon. March . Eagle moon. Ipril Goose moon. These people know the medicinal virtues of many herbs and simples, and apply the roots of plants and the bark of trees with success. But 5 he conjurers, who monopolize the medical science, find it necessary to blend mystery with their art, and do not communicate tlieir knowledge. Their inateria medica they administer in the form of purges and clysters | but the remedies and surgi- al operations are supposed to derive much of their ffect from magic and incantation. When a blister rises in the foot from the frost, the chafing of the shoe, &c., they immediately open it, and apply the heated blade of a kiaife to the part, which, painful as it may be, is found to be efficacious. A sharp iiint serves them as a lancet for letting blood, as well as for scarification in bruises and swellings. For sprains, the dung of an animal just killed is considered as the best remedy. They are very fond of European medicines, though they arc ig- norant of their ap])lication : and those articles form an inconsiderable part of the European traf- fic with them. Among their various superstitions, they believe the vapour which is seen to hover over moist and ■swampy places is the spii'it of some person lately J AMONG THE INDIANS. 115 dead. They also fancy another spirit, which ap- pears in the shape of a man, upon the trees near the lodge of a person deceased, whose property has not been intered with him. He is represented as bearing a gun in his hand; and it is believed that he does not return to his rest, until the pro- perty, that has been withheld from the grave has been sacrificed to it. EXAMPLES OF THEIR 1 £JIJ^GUAGE. ' 1 Knistenaux. Good spirit ^ t. KijaiManitou Evil spirit » - Matchi manito^i Man ,. -. Ethini Woman „ Esquois Male - - Naphew Female - - - Non-gense Infant » - = A' wash ish Head „ ~ Us ti quoin Fore head -' Es caa tick Hair „ ,- Wes ty ky Eyes ^'^- Nose «l: m E^kisock Oskiwin Nostrils - . Oo tith ee gow mow MoHth . - - toune My teeth - «. _ Wippittah Otaithana Tongue - » ^ Beard f! - Michiteune Brain r - With i tip Ears . - towjee gio Neck ^ - qui 6w Throat - •- ■- koot tas gy Arms » Onisk Fingers - . Che che€ Nails „ Wos kos sia Side » O's spin gy My back - No pis quan My belly - Nattay Thighs - - povam My knees - No che quoin nah Legs - Nosk Heart - . Othea My father - Noo ta wie THMR LANGUAGE. 117 My mother My Jioy, (sen) - My girl, (daughter) - My brother, eider My sister, elder My grandfather My- grandmother My «ncle My. nephew My niece My mother in law My brother in law - My companioa * t My husband - Blood Old man I am angry I fear - . - Joy . - - Hearing gPrack - Chief, great ruler - Thief Excrement Buffalo - Ferret Pole cat Elk . - - Rein deer * . - Fallow deer Beaver Woolverine - Squirrel Mink - Otter Wolf Hare - - . Marten Moose ... Bear » ~ - Knistciiaux, Nigah wei Negousis Netanis Ni stess Ne miss "** Ne moo shum N'o kum N' o'ka miss N-e too sini Ne too sim csquois Nisigouse Nistah Ne wechi wagan Ni nap pern Mith coo Shi nap Ne kis si wash en Ne goos tow Ne heiftha torn Pethom Mis conna Haukimah Kismouthesk Meyee Moustouche Sisous Shicak Moustouche Attick Attiek Amisk Qui qua katch Ennequachas Sa quasue Nekick Mayegan Wapouce Wappistan Mouswah Masqua 118 EXAMPLES OF Fisher Lynx Porcupine Fox Musk rat Mouse Cow Buffalo - Meat-flesh Dog Eagle Duck Crow, Corbeau Swan Turkey Pheasants Bird Outard - White Goosew- Grey Goose ^- Partridgc Water Hen Dove Eggs Pipe or Jack - Carp - . -' Sturgeon White Fish - Pikrel - Fish (in general) Spawn Fins Trout Craw Fish Frog Wasp Turtle Snake Awl Needle Fire steel Knistenaux. Wijask Picheu Cau quah Ma kisew Wajask *"** Abieushiss Noshi Moustoiiche Wias Atim Makusue Sy sip Ca Cawkeu Wapiscu Mes sei thew Okes kew Pethesew Niscag Wey Wois Pestasish Pithew Chiquibish Omi Mee Wa Wah Kenonge Na may bin Na May Aticaming Oc-chaw , Kenonge ', Waquon Chi chi kan Na gouse A shag gee A thick Ah moo Mikinack Kinibic Oscajick Saboinigan Appet THEIR LANGUAGE. 119 Knistenaux. Fire wood Mich-tah Cradle . Teckinigan Dagger . Ta comagau Arrow Augusk or Atouche Fish Hook Quosquipichican Axe Seegaygan Ear-bob . Chi-kisebisoun Comb Sicahoun Net Athahe Tree Mistick Wood Mistick Paddle . Aboi Canoe Chiman Birch Rind Wasquoi Bark Wasquoi Touch Wood . Pousagaii Leaf ^ Nepeshah Grass Masquosi Raspberries Misqui-meinac Strawberries , O'-tai-e-minac Ashes Pecouch Fire Scou-tay Grapes Shomenac Fog Pakishihow Mud Asus ki Currant . Kisijiwin Road Mescanah Winter . Pipoun Island Ministic Lake Sagayian Sun Pisim Moon Tibisca pesiin (the night Sun) j Kigigah ^ Day Might Tibisca Snow Cosnah Rain Kimiwoin Drift Pewan Hail Shes eagan Ice Mesquaming 120 EXAMPLES OF Knistenaux, Frost . . . Aquatin Mist Picasyow Water Nepec Mountain Messe asky (all the earth) Wachee World . Sea Kitchi kitchi ga ming Morning Kequishepe Mid-day . Abetah quisheik Portage Unygam Spring Menouscaming River Sipec Rapid Bawastick Rivule^ Sepeesis Sand Thocaw Earth Askee Star Attack Thunder , Pithuseu Wind Thoutin Calm Athawostin Heat Quishipoi Eveninff Takashike North * Kywoitin South Sawena woon East Coshawcastak West » Pasquismou To-morro\i Wabank Bone Oskann Broth Micliim wabot Feast Maqua see Grease or oil , Pimis Marrow fat Oscan pimis Sinew- Asstis Lodge Wig waum Bed Ne pa win Within Pendog ke Door Squandam Dish Othagan Fort Wasgaigan Sledge Tabanask THEIR LANGUAGE. ±Zi Cincture Cap Stocks Shirt Coat Blanket Cloth Thread Garters Mittens Shoes Smoking bag Portage sling Straight on Meclic'me Red Blue White Yellow . Green Ugly Handsome Beautiful . Deaf Good-natured Pregnant . Fat Big Small or little Short Skin Long Strong Coward . Weak Lean Brave Youngman Cold Knistenaux. , Poquoatehown Astotin Achican Papacheweyan Papise-co-wagan Wape weyang Maneto weguin Assabab Chi ki-bisoon Astissack Maskisin Kusquepetagan Apisan Goi ask Mas ki kee Mes coh Kasqutch (same as black) Wabisca Saw waw Chibatiquare Mache nagouseu Catawassiseu Kissi Sawenogan Nima petom Mithiwashin Paawie Outhineu Mushikitee Abisasheu Chemasish Wian Kinwain Mascawa Sagatahaw Nithamissew Matha waw Nima Gustaw Osquineguish Kissin M z% EXAMPLES OF Knisterulux, Hot Kicbatai Spring Minouscaming Summer Nibin Fall Tagowagonk One . Peyac Two Nisheu Three . Nishteu Four Neway Five Ni-annan Six Negoutawoesie Nish wissic Seven Eight Jannanew Nine Shack Ten Mitatat Eleven Peyac osap Twelve Nisheu osap Thirteen . Nithou osap Fourteen . Neway osap Fifteen . Niannan osap Sixteen . Nigoutuwoesic osap Seventeen Nish woesic osap Eighteen Jaiinenewosap Nineteen . Sliack osap Twenty . Nishew mitenah Twenty-one Nishew mitenah peyae Twenty-t\Yo, &c. USdp Nisheu mitenah nish- eu osap Thirty . Nishtou mitenah Forty Newey mitenah Fifty Niannan mitenah Sixty Negoutawosic mitenah Seventv Niswoisicmitcnah Eighty Sannaeu mitenah Ninety Shack mitenah Hunched . Mitaua mitinah Two Hundred Neshew mitenah a mi- tenah One Thousand » Mitenah mitena mite- nah IHEIR LANGUAGE, iZb fCuistenaux. First Nican Last Squayatch More Minah Better Athiwack mithawashia Best Athiwack mithawashia I, or mc . Nitha You, or thou Kitlia They, or them Withawaw We Nitliawaw My, or mine Nitayan Yours Kitayan Whom . Awione His or hers Of ay an All Kakithau Some, or some 1 ew . Very peyac The same Tabescoutch 411 the world iSIissi acki wanquo All the men Kakitiiaw EtUinyock Sometimes I as CDW-puco Arrive To coiichin Beat tarn aha To burn . Mistascasoo ^ sing . Nagamoun — cut^ Kisquishan — . hide Catann — cover . Acquahoun — believe Taboitam — sleep . Nepan — dispute Kc ko mi towock — dance . Nemaytow -^^^^:^^^ — give . With ^ii0^l^ — do Ogitanu - ^^ ~ eat Wissinee — die Nepew — forget . Winnekiskisew >— speak . Athimetakouse — cry (tears) Mantow — laugh . Papew — sit down Nematappe — walk . Pimoutais 124 EXAMPLES, 6te Tafall , — work . ^ kill . ^ sell — live — see — come Enough . It hails . There is some There is . It rains After to-morrow ro-day • Thereaway Much Presently . Make, heart, This morning This night Above Below Truly Already Yet, more Yesterday Far ^ . ' Near Never No Yes By and by Aiways Make haste It's long since fCistetiaux. Packisin Ah tus kew Nipahaw Attawom Pimatise Wabam Astamotch Egothigog Siiisigan > Ay a wa Quimiwoin A wis wabank Anoutch Netoi Michett Pischisqua Quitliipeh Shebas Tibiscag Espiming Tabassish Taboiy Sashay Minah TacoHshick Wathow Qnishiwoac Nima wecatch Nima Ah Pa-nima Ka-ki-kec Quethepeh Mewaisha SOME ACCOUIMT OE THIi CHEFEWYA^^ IJS^BIJ^YS. They are a numerous people, who consider the country between the parallels of latitude 60 and 65 north, and longitude 100 to 110 west, as their lands or home. They speak a copious language, which is very difficult to be attained. It is not possible to form any just estimate of their numbers j but it is apparent, nevertheless, that they are by no means proportionate to the vast extent of their territories, which may i\\ some degree be at- -Jributed to the riVvages of the small-pox. Which are more or less evident thi'oughout this part of the continent. The notion which these people entertain of the creationfis of a very sing ular n ature. They believe that, at the first, the globe was one vast and entire ocean, inhabited by no living creature, except ^ mighty bird, whose eyes were fire, whose glances were lightning, and the clapping of whose wings was thunder. On his descent to the ocean, and touching it, the earth instantly arose, and remained on the surface of the waters. This omnipotent bird then called forth all the variety of animals from the earth, except the Chepewyans, who were pro- duced from a dog ; and this circumstance occasions their aversion to the He sh of that animal, as well as the people who eat it. This extraordinary tradi- tion proceeds to relate, that the great bird, having finished his work, made an arrow, which was to be preserved with great care, and to remain untouch- ed; but that the Chrpevvyans were so devoid of un- 128 CllEPEWYAIS -tierstanding, as to carry it away ; and the sacrilege >so enraged the bird, that he has nt\ ei* since ap- peared. They have also a tradition among thcni, that tliey originally came Trom another country, inliabitedby a very wicked people, and have traversed a great lake which was narrow, slia'low, and full of islands, where they had snifered great misery, it being al- ways winter, with ice and deep snow. At the Cop- per mine river, where they made the first land, the ground was covered with copper, over which a body ^f earth has since been collected, to the depth of a man's height. They believe also, that in ancient times their ancestors lived till their feet were worn out with walking, and their throats with eating. They describe a deluge, when the waters spread ever the whole earth, except the highest mountains, on the tops of which they preserved tliemselves. They believe, that immediately after their death, They pass into anctht-r v/orid, v.hcre they arrive at Vi iarge river, on whicli they embark in a stone ca- noe, and that a gentle current bears them on to an r^xtensive lake, in the centre of which is a most bciiudful island ; and that, in the view of this de- lightful abode, tliey receive that judgmen^or their conduct during life, which terminates their final ^tate and unaltei-able allotment. If their good ac- tions are declared to predominate, they are landed upon tlic island, where there is to be no end t-o their bappincss; which, however, according to their no- tions, consist in an eternal enjoyment of sensual pleasure, and carnal gratification. But if there be Dad actions to weigh down the balance, the stone canoe sinks at once, and h ayes them up to their chins in the water, to behold and regret the Vcward enjoyed by the good, and eternally strug- gling, bur, with unavailing endeavours, to reach the blissful island, from which tliey aie excluded forever. They have some faint notions of Uie transmigra- tion of the sou!: so that U a cliild bo born with A^ INDIANS- i^i, teeth, iiiOy instantly imagine, from its premature appearance, that it bears a resemblance to some person who had lived to an advanced period, and that he has assumed a renovated life, with these ex- traordinary tokens of maturity. The Chepewyans are sobei-, timorous, and vag- rant, with a selfish disposition which has sometimes ci'eated suspicions of theii* integrity. Their stature has nothing remarkable in it ; but though they are seldom corpulent, tliey are sometimes robust. Their complexion is swartliy ; their features coarse, and their hair lank, but not always of a dingy black ; nor have they universally the piercing eye, which generally animates the Indian countenariCe. The women have a more agreeable aspect than the men ; but their gait is awkward, which pi^oceeds from their being accustomed nine months in the year, to travel on snow-shoes and drag sledges of a weight from two to four hundred pounds. They are very submissive to their husbands, who have, however, their fits of jeabusy ; and, for very trilling causes, treat them witA such cruelty as sometimes to occa- sion theii;,,d^ath. They are frequently objects of traffic 5^/^ the father possesses the right of dispos- ing of Infaaughter.* The men in general extract their be^i'ds ; though some of ihem are seen to pre- fer a bishy, black beard, to a smooth chin. They cut tleir hair in various forms, or leave it in a long natA'al flow, according as their caprice or fancy su/gests. The women always wear it in a great ieigth ; and some of them are very attentive to its ;rrangement. If they at any time appear despoiled ^f their tresses, it is to be esteemed a proof of the /husband's jealousy, and is considered as a severer punishment than manual correction. Both sexes have blue or black bars, or from one to four straight lines on their cheeks or forehead, to distinguisii'the • They do not, however, seil them as slaves, but as com- panions to those who are supposed to live more coeiifor; W- *-ha.:2 themselves. L 2 Uo *CH£r^E>VYAN tribe to which they belong. These iiiaiks are either tatooed, or made by drawing a tliread, dipped iii the necessary colour, beneath the skin. There are no people more attentive to the com- forts of their dress, or less anxious respecting its exterior appearance. In the winter it is composed oftlje skiiKSof deer, and their fawns, and dressed as fine as any chamois leather in the liair. In the sum- mei* their apparel is the same, except that it is pi*e- pared without the hair. The shoes and leggins arc sewed together, tlie latter reaching upwards, to the middle, and being supported by a belt, under which a small piece of leather is drawn to cover the private partsi the ends of which fall down both before and behind. In the shoes they put the hair of the moose or rein-deer, witli additional pieces of leather as socks. The shirt, or coat, wlieji girded round the waist, reaches the hiiddle of the thigh ; and the mit- tens are sew ed to the sleeves, or are suspended by strings from the shoulders. A rulf or tippet sur- rounds the neck; and the skin of the head of the deer forms a curious kind of cap, A vobe, made of several deer or fawn skins sewed together, covers the whole. This dress is worn single or fouble, but al\^ ays in the winter, with tlie hair ^^ itliin t5f(l with- out. Thus arrayed, a Chepewyan will la> himself down on the ice i*n the middle of a lake, and -epose in comfort ; though he will sometimes find a dificulty in the morning to disencumber himself from'the snow drifted on him during the night. If in Ms passage he should be in want of provision, he citg a hole in the ice, wlien he seldom fails of taking some trout or pike, whose eyes he instantly scoops out, and eats as a great delicacy ; but if they should not be sufficient to satisfy his appetite, he will, in this necessitv, make his meal of the iish in its raw state; but, those whom I saw, preferred to dress their victuals when circumstances admitted the ne- cessary preparation. When they are in thj^ part of their country which does not produce a suthcicnt quantitv of wood lor fuel^ they are reduced to the INDlAiNS. IJJ same c'xi,^oiicy, thoiig*h they geiicrally dry their meat intiiesini,* The dress ol* the women differs from that of the ineu. Tlieir leggins are tied below tlic knee ; and their coat or sliift is wide, Iiangini^ down to t!ic an- kle, and is tucked up at pleasure by means of a belt, which is fastened round the waist. Those who have children have these garments made full about the shoulders ; and when they are travelliii,2; they carry tlieir infants upon their backs, next theiV skin, in which situation they are perfectly comfort- able, and in a position convenient to be suckled. Nov do they discontinue to give their milk to them until th^j liavc another cJdld. Child-birth is not the object of that tender cai'e and serious attention among the savages as it is among civilized people. At this period no part of their usual occupation is omitted ; and this continual and regular exercise must contribute to the welfare of the mother, both in tJie progress of ])artnition and in tlie moment of delivery. The women have a singular custom of cut- ting off a small piece of the navel-string of the new born children, and hanging it about their necks : * The provision called Pemican, on which the Chepewyans, v.s well as the other savages of this country, chiefly subsist in iheir jouniief , is prepared in the following manner. The lean parts of the flesh of the larger animals are cut in thin slices, And are placed on a wooden grate over a slow fire, or exposed .3 the sun, and sometimes to the frost. These operations dry •t; and in that state it is pounded between two stones: it will th(?h keep with care for several years. If, however, it is kept in laige cuanlities, it is disposed to ferment in the spring of the year, when it must be exposed to the air, or it will soon decay* The inside fat, and that of the rump, which is much thicker in these wild than our domestic animals, is melted down and mix- (;d in a boiling state, witli the pounded meat, in equal propor- ti0::is ■. it is then put in baskets or bags for the convenience of carVying it. Thus It becomes a nntriiious food, an;l is eaten, without any further preparation, or the addition of spice, salt, or any vegetable or farinaceous substance. A little time re- conciles it to the palale. There is another sort made with the addiuon of marrow and drried berries, which is of asuperiw quality. • ±S2 CtlKPEWYAN they are curious in the covering they make for it, which they decorate witli porcupines' quills and beads. Though the women are as much in the power of the men, as any other articles of their property, they are always consulted, and possess a a ery con- sidei-able influence in the traftic with Europeans, and other important concerns. Plurality of wives is common among them ; and the ceremony of marriage is of a very simple na- ture. The girls are betrothed at a very early pe- riod to those whom the parents think the best able to support them : nor is the inclination of the wo- man considered. Whenever a sepai'ation takes place, which sometimes happens, it depends entirely on the will and pleasure of the husband. In com- mon with the other Indians of this country, tliey have a custom respecting the periodical state of a woman, which is rigorously observed ; at that time she must seclude herself from society. They are not even allowed in that situation to keep the same path as the men, when travelling : and it is consi- dered a great breach of decency for a woman so circumstanced to touch any utensils of manly occu- pation. Such a circumstance is supposed to defile them, so tliat their subsequent use would be followed by certain mischief or misfortune. There are par- ticular skins which the women never touch, as of the bear and wolf, but those animals the men are seldom known to kill. They are not remarkable for their activity ^s hunters, which is owing to the ease with which they snare deer and spear fish : and these occupations are not beyond the strength of their old men, wo- men, and boys : so that they participate in thos^ laborious occupations, which among their neigh- bours are confined to the women. They make war on the Esquimaux, who cannot resist their superior numbers, and put them to death.; as it is a princi- ple with them wever to make prisoners. At the same time they tamely submit to the Knisteneaux^ wrio ;iio iiyi so numorous as thems'jlvccj., when they tr(-iiL them as enemies. 'ihcv do not affect that cokl reserve at meeting ritiier among tlienisehes or strangers, which is com- mon with the Knistciieaux, hut commiinieate mu- tualJv, and at once ali ihe iiiibrmation of which they are possessed. Nor are they roused like them from an apparent torpor to a state of great activity* They are consequently more uniform in this respect, though they are of a' very persevering disposition when their interest is concerned. . As these people are not addicted to spirituous liquors, they have a regular and uninterrupted use of their undcrstar.ding, Yvhicii is always dii=ected to the advancement of tlieir own interest; and this dis- position, as may he readily imagined, sometimes,oc« casions them to be charged with fraudulent habits. They will submit with patience to the severest treat- ment, when they are conscious they deserve it, but will never forget nor forgive any wanton or unne- cessary rigon green wounds and ulcers, and places contrived for promoting perspiration. Of the use of simjdes and plants they have no knowledge ; noi" ' an it be expected, as their cjimtrv does not pro- duce them , 13* CHEPEWYAN Tliough they have enjoyed so long an intercourse w ith Europeans, their country is so barren, as not to be capable of producing; the ordinary necessaries naturally introduced by such a communication ; and they continue, in a great measure, their own incon- venient and awkward modes of taking their game and preparing it when taken. Sometimes they drive the deer into small lakes, where they spear them, OF force them into enclosures, where the bow and arrow are employed against them. These ani- mals are also taken in snares made of skin. In the former instance, the game is divided among those who have been engaged in the pursuit of it. In the latter, it is considered as private property ; never- theless, any unsuccessful hunter passing by, may take a deer so caught, leaving the head, skin, and saddle for the owner. Thus, though they have no regular government, as every man is lord in his own family, they are influenced more or less, by certain principles which conduce to their general benefit. In their nuarrels with each other, they very rarely ^proceed to a greater degree of violence than is oc- casioned by blows, wrestling, and pulling of the liair ; while their abusive language consists in ap- plying the name of the most offensive animal to the object of their displeasure, and adding the term ugly, and chiay, or stillborn.* ' Their arms and domestic apparatus, in addition to the articles procured from Americans are spears, bows and arrows, fishing-nets, and lines made of green deerskin thongs. They have also nets for tak- ing the beaver as he endeavoui*s to escape from his lodge when it is broken open, it is set in a particular manner for the purpose 5 and a man is employed to watch the moment when he enters the snare, or he would soon cut liis way through it* He is then thrown upon the icc; where he remains as if he had no life in him. ' This name is clso applicable to the flietus of an animal, when killed, which is considered as one oi" U^e greatest deli- INDIANS. 155 The snow-shoCvS arc of a cry superior workman- ship. The inner part of their frame is straight, the «>Hter one is curved, and it is pointed at both ends, with that in front turned up. Tliej are also laced with great neatness, with thongs made of deer-skin. The sledges aiV formed of tliin slips of board turned up also in front, and are highly polished with crook- 4!d knives in order to slide along with facility. Close-grained wood is, on that recount, the best 5 but theirs are made of the red or swamp vSprucc-fir tree. The country, which these people claim as theii land, has a very small quantity of earth, and pro- duces little or no wood or herbage. Its cliief vege- table substance is the moss, on which the deer feed ; and a kind of rock-moss, which, in times of scarcity, preserves the lives of the natives. When boiled in \vater, is dissolves into a clammy glutinous sub- stance, that affords a very sufficient nourishment. But notwithstanding the barren state of their coun- try, with proper care and economy, these people might live in great comfort ; for the lakes abound Vvith fish, and the hills are covered with deer. Tbo% of all the Indian people of this continent, they are considered as the most provident, they suffer se- verely* at certain seasons, and particularly in the 4ead of winter, when they are under the necessity of retiring to their scanty woods. To the westward of them, the musk-ox may be found; but they have no dependence on it as an article of sustenance. There are also large hares, a few white wolves, pe- culiar to their country, and several kinds of foxes, with white and gray partridges, &c. l^he beaver and moose-deer they do not find until they come within sixty degrees north latitude ; and the buffa- loe is still further south. That animal is known to frequent an higher latitude to the westward of their country. These people bring pieces of variegated marble, which are found on the surface of the earth. It is easily worked, bears a fine polish, and hardens ^ith time^ it endures heat, and is manufactured 136 CHEPEWYAIS into pipes or calumets, as Hiey arc very fond oi' smoking tobacco ; a luxury whicli the Europeans communicated to tliem. Their amusements or recreations arc but few. Their music is so inharmonious, and their dancing so awkward, that they might be supposed to be ashamed of both, as tliey very seldom practice either. They also shoot at marks, an'd play at tlic i^ames common amon,i^ tliem^ but in fact prefer sleeping to either; avid the greater part of their time is passed in procuring food, and rcstin^g from the toil necessary to obtain it. They are also of a querulous disposition, Rnd are continually making complaints ; whicli they express by a constant repetition of the. word ediiiy* ** it is hard," in a whining and plaintive tone of voice. They are superstitious in the extreme ; and al- most every action of their lives, liowcver trivial, is more or less influenced by some whimsical notion. I never observed tliat they had any ])articularform of religious worship; but as they believe in a good and evil spirit, and a state of future rewards and punishments, they cannot be devoid of religious im- pressions. At the same time they manifest a deci- ded unwillingness to make any communications on tlic subject. !> The Chepewyans have been accused of abandon ing their aged and infirm people to perish, and of not burying their dead ; but these are melancholy necessities, which proceed from their wandering w^ay of life. They are by no means universal ; for it is within my knowledge, that a man rendered helpless by palsy, was carried about for many years, with tlie greatest tenderness and attention, till he died a natural death. That they should not bury their dead in their own country, cannot be imputed to them a custom arising from a savage in- sensibility, as they inhabit such high latitudes that the ground never thaws ; but it is well known, that when they ai*e in the woods, they cover their dead with trees. Besides, they manifest no common re INDIANS. 137 .peer Ui the memory of their departed friends, by a hmu; period of n!i>uViung, ciittinp; of their liair, and nc^Tk' nuike use of the property of the deceased. Nay, they frequently destroy or sacrifice their own, as a token of regret and sorrow. If there be any people who, from the barren state *)f the country, might be supposed to be cannibals by nature, these people from the difficulty they at times experience in procuring food, might be liable to that imputation. BnU m all my knowledge of them, L nc\ cr was acquainted with one instance of that disposition ; nor among all the natives, which I met Willi in a route of five thousand miles, did I see or hear of an example of cannibalism, but such CIS arose from that irresistiible necessity, which has been known to impel even the mosi civil? zed people to eat each otlier. ^ M STATISTICAL VlEn. GRAND OSAGE. They cinim xlic cxoiiitry wilhhi (lie foliowing li- icits, viz. cainnieiiciiig jit the oioutli of a south l)3'aiicli of the (Jsai^e 'river, called JW'ungua, ami with the sanie to its source, tlicnce southwardlv to intei'seet the Arkansas, about one liuudred miles be- low tlie tiii'cc f< rks of t!iat ri^ ei* ^ thence up the principal bi-aiieh of tlie f-jarae, to the confluence of a lars:eiiorth\\ardiy branch of the same, lyingacon- vsiderable distance west of the Great Saline, and witlithat sti-eam nearly to its source : thence north- v» ardly, towards the Kansas river, embracing the waters oi' Hie ii]}perpo)tion of the Osai^c river ; and thence obliquely approachint;: the same to the be- ginning. The climate is delightful, and the soil lertiie in tbe extreme. The face of the country is generally level, and well ^^ atci-ed ; tlie eastern part of the country is covered with Ji variety of excellenl timber; the western and niiddle country, higli prairies, li embraces within its limits four salines, which are, in point of magnitude and excellence, unequalled by any known in North Amei'ica; there are also maPiy others of less note. The principal part of the Great Osage have always resided at their villages, on the Osage I'iver, since they have been known to the inhabitants of Louisiana. About three years since, nearly one half of this nation, headed by tlieir chief the Blgtrack, emigrated to three forks of tlie Arkansas ; near which, and on its north side, they established a village, where th'; i! »w reside. The Little Osage formerly re- sided ou th: south west side of the "Missouri, near the mouth of Grand river ; but;, being reduced by STATISTICAL VIEW. 139 contiuiml warfare with their neighbours, were compelled to seek the protection ot the Irrcat Us- a-c ; near whom they now reside. There is no doubt but their trade will increase : they couKi runiish a much lai',2;er quantity ot* beaver than they do. I think two ' viilasi^es, on the Osage river, mia:ht b:- prevailed on to remove to the Arkansa.^, and the. Rarinas, higher up the Missouri, and thu3 l3a\'e asuiiicient scope of country for the Shawnces, Delawars, Miames, and Kickapoos, The Osages cultivate corn, heu.is, &c. KANSAS. Tiin limits of the coimtry they elainu is not known. The couufry in whki) iMvv ^v;oHiae, and from thrncc to t\w Missouri is a dehglvJui one, ana ^pncrallv well watered, and covered witfi excellent timber ; "they hunt to the upper part of Ivansas and \rkansas rivers 5 th-ir trade may be expected to increase with pronrr management. At present they arc a diss.')iute, lawless banditti ; frequently plunder their traders aiid commit depredations on perrions ascending and e payment of their debts. They are, in ail respects, a friendly, well disposed people. They cultivate corn, beans, melons, ^c. PANIAS REPUBLICANS. Are a branch of tlie Pania Pr )per, or, as they are frequently termed, the i?ig Paunch, About ten years since they withdrew themselves from the mo- ther nation, and established a village on a large northwardly brancli of the Kansas, to which tliey have given name ; they afterwards subdivided and lived in different parts'^ of the country on the waters of Kansas river ; biit being harassed by their tur- bulent neighbours, the Kansas, ihvy r i<)ined the Panias Proper last spring. Wimt has been said with respect to iha^ Panias Proper is applicable on the Republican river, whic'i is better stocked with timber than that hunted by the Panias. PANAIS LOUPS OR W OLVES. These are also a hranch of the Panais Pro- per, who have separated themselves #om hat Tiation wany years since, and established thcm- M 2 # i.v^ STATISTICAL -VIEW. selves oil a north branch of the rivier Platte, to wiiich their name was also given ; these people have likewise no idea of an exclusive riejht to any portion of tliat country. They hunt on the Wolf river above their village, and on the river Platte above the nioutii of that river. This country is very similai* to that of the river Panais Proper, thoug]^ there is an extensive body of fertile well timbered laud between tlie Wolf river below tlieir village and the river Corn de Cerf, or Elkhorn river. Tiiey cultivate corn, beans, ^c. The par- ticulars ichited of the other Panais are also appli- cable to them. They are seldom visited by any trader, and therefore usually bring their furs and peltry to the village of the Panais Proper, where thev traffic with the whites. MAHAS. They ha\ e no idea of exclusive possession of soil. About ton years since, they boasted of seven hundred warriors. They have lived in a village, on tlie west bank of the Missouri, two hundred and thirty-six miles above the mouth of the river Phit^, wlierethey cultivated corn, beans, and melons : tliey were warlike, and the terror of iheir neighbours. In the summer and autumn of ISU2, they were visited by the small-pox, which reduced their numbers to something less than three hundred j they burnt their village, and have be- come a wandering nation, deserted by the traders, and the consequent deficiency of arms and ammu- nition has invited frequent agressions from their neighbours, which have tended to reduce them still furtlier. They rove principally on tlie waters of the river Quicurre, or Rapid river. The country is generally Itvel, high, and open ; it is fertile and tolerably well watered. They might easily be in- duced t^Jlicome stationary ; they are well disposed towardsjthe whites, and are good hunters 5 their STATISTICAL VIEW, l^ country abounds in beaver and otter, and their trade will increase and become valuable, provided tliey become stationary and are at peace. The Tetons Bois Brule killed and took about sixty of them last summer. PONCARS. The remnant of a nation once respectable in point of numbers. They formerly resided on a branch of t!ie Red river of lake Winnipic ; bein,!^ oppressed by the Sioux, they removed to the west side of the Missouri, on Poncar river, where they built and fortified a village, and remained some years : but being pursued by their ancient enemies the Sioux, and reduced by continual wars, tliey have joined and now reside witli the Mahas, whose language they speak. RICARAS. Are the remains of ten large tribes of Panias, who have been reduced by the small-pox and the Sioux to the present number. They live in forti- fied villages, and liunt immediately in their neigh- bourhood. The country around them, in every direction for several hundred miles, is entirely bare of timber^ except on the water courses and steep declivities of hills, where it is sheltered from the ravages of fire. The land is tolerably well watered, and lies well for cultivation. The re- mains of the villages of these people are to be seen on many parts of the Missouri, from the mouth of Tetone river to the Mandans. They claim no land except that on which their villages stand, and the fields which they cultivate. The Tetons claim the country around them.^TJiey are the oldest inhabitants, and may properl^e called the farmers or tenants at xviU of that lawless; sa- #4 STATISTICAL VIEW. vaae and mpacious race, the Sioux Teton, who rob them of their liorses, plunder their gardens and fields, and sometimes murder them without opposition. if these people were freed irom the oppression of the Tetons, their trade would in- crease rappidly, and might he extended to aeon- siderahle amount. They maintain a partial trade with their oppressors, the Tetons, to whom they barter horses, mules, corn, beans, and a specie of tobacco, which they cultivate ; and receive m return guns, ammunition, kettles, axes, and other articles which the Tetons obtain from the \ anktons of tJie North, and Sissatones, who trade with Mr. Cameron, on the river St. Peters. These horses and mules the Ricaras obtain Irom their western neighbours, who visit them frequently for the pur- pose of trafficking. MANDANS. These are the most friendly, well disposed Indians inhabiting the Missouri. They are brave, humane, and hospitable. About twenty-hye years since they lived in six villages, about forty miles below their present villages, on both sides of the Missouri. Repeated visitations of the small-pox, aided by frequent attacks of the Sioux, have re- duced them to their present number. Ihey claim no particular tract of country. T^jey ive m for- tified villages, hunt immediately m their neigii- bourhood, and cultivate corn, ^^j^f ' ^^"^^J^f ^;,^^'.f. tobacco, which form articles of traffic with their neLhbours the Assiniboins : they also barter hoSes with Assinniboins for arms, ammmiition, axes, kettles and other articles of Europeah man- ufacture, which these last obtain from the British establishments on the Assinnibom river. / he ai - tides wmh thev thus obtain from the Assinm- bo ns, alfthe British traders who visit the.^ they again exchange for horses and leather tents witti STATISTICAL YIEW. ii5a the Cruv/ Indians, Chy^nncs, Wetepahatoes, Kia- was, Kancnavidi, Stactaii, and Cataka, who visit *.hem occasionally tor the purpose of traffic. Their -radc may be much increased Their country is si- niilar to tliat of tlie Ricaras, Population increasing^, AHWAHHAWAY. TiiEY difter hut very little, iji any particular, itom the Mandans, their neiglibours, except in the ^injiist war which they, as well as the Minetares, prosecute against the defenceless Snake Indians, irom which, I believe, it will be di^cult to induce them to desist. They claim to Iiave once been a part of the Crow Indians, whom they still acknow- ledge as relations. They have resided on the Mis^ sonri as lorig as their tradition v/ili enable them to Anform. MIINETARES. TiiEY claim no particular country, nor do thev assign tiiemselves any limits : their tradition re*- iates that they have always resided at their present villages. In their customs, manners, and disposi- tions, they are similar to the Mandans and Ahwah- haways. The scarcity of fuel induces them to re- side, during the cold season, in lara:e bands, in camps, on difterent parts of the Missouri, as high ap that river as the mouth of the river Yellow Stone, and west of their villages, about the Turtle mountain. I believe tiiat these people, as well as the Mandans and Aliwahhawavs, might be prevail- ed on to remove to the mouth of \ eilow Stone river, provided an establishment is made at that place, liiey have as yet fiu-nishcd scarcely any beaver, although the country they hunt abounds w^hthem^ the lodges of these animals are to be seen witiiin a mile of their villager. These people have also suf #146 STATISTICAL VIEW. fered considerably by tbc&inall-pox ; but bave s«c cessfully resisted tbe attack of tiie Sioux. Tbe iiortb west company intend to foi'm an establish- ment in the course ot* tbe next summer, and autumn, on tbe Missouri near these people, which, if eliect- ed, will most probably prevent thMr removal to any point, which our government may hereafter wish 't.bem to reside at. SAURIES AND RENARDS, OR FOXES. These nations are so perfectly consolidated, tiiJit they may, in fact, be considered as one nation only. They' speak the same language; they for- merly resided on the east side of the Mississippi, and still claim the land on that side of the river, from the mouth of the Gisconsin to the Illinois ri- ver, and eastward toward lake Michigan ; but to what particular boundary, I am not informed ; they also claim, by conquest, tbe whole of the country belonging to the ancient Missouris, which forms one of the most valuable portions of Louisiana, but what proportion of this territory they are willing to assign to the Ayouways, who also claim a part of it, I do not know, as they are at war with the Sionx, who live north and north west of them, ex- cept the Yankton Ahnah. Their boundaries in that quarter are also undefined : their trade would become much more valuable if peace was establish- ed between them and the nations west of the Mis- souri, witii whom they are at war ; tbe population has remained nearly the same for many years ; they raise an abundance of corn, beans, and me- lons ; they sometimes hunt in the country west of them, towards the MisBouri; but their principal hunting is on both sides of the Mississippi, from tiie mouth of trie Gisconsin to the mouth of the Illinois river. TPhese people arc extremely friendly to the w^hitcs, and seldom injure their traders ; but they are the most implacable enemies to the Indian na- STATISTICAL VIEW, tir tioiis with \vliom they ai-e at war. To them is justly attributable the almost entire destriiclitiii of tiie Missouris, the Illinois, Cahokias, Kaskankias, and Piorias. WAHPATONE Claim tha country in whiah they rove on the north west side of the river 8t. Peters, fi-om their villa.^c to the mouth of the Chippeway river, and thence north eastvvardly towards the head of the Mississippi, includin^i^the Crow-win,^- river. Their lands are fertile and .^erscrally well tij)a)ered. They are only stationary while their traders are witli tlieni, VvhicJi is from the bcginnin.^ of October to the last of March. Tiunr trade is sm)j>osed to be at its greatest extent. Tlicy treat their traders with respect, and seldom attempt to rob them. This, as well as other Sioux banils, acts, in all re- spects, as indepcndeniiy of each othcj- as if they were a distinct nation. MINDAWARC IRTO^. Tiii.s is the only hand of Sioux that cultivates ^orn^ beans, ke, ; and these even cannot properly be termed a stationary people. Thev live in tents of dressed leatiier, v/hich they transport by means of horses and dogs, and ramble from place to place during the greater part of the year. They are friendly to their traders ; but the inveterate enemies to sucli as supply their enemies, tiie Chippeways, with merchandise. They also claim the Country in which they hunt, commencing at the entrance of the river St. Peters, and extending upwards, on both sides of the Mississippi river, to the mouth of the Grow river. The land is fertile and well watered ; lies level and sufficiently timbered. Their trade eannat be expected to increase much. m l%8 STATISTICAL VIEW. WAHPACOOTA. ThijI ro-v c in the country south-west of the river St. Peters, from a phice called the HardwoocU to the mouth of t!ic \ ellow Medicine river : never sta- tionary but \\hj:n their traders are with them ; and this d'jcs not happen at any reg'ular or fixed point. \t present they treat their tr:iders t'ith ' co]itempt for the white persons who visit them tjirough that channel. A prevalent idea among tliem, and one which they iiiake the rr.le of tlieir conduct, is, that the more ill they treat the traders, the greater quantity of mer- chimdise they will bring them, and that they will tl us obtain the articles they wish on better terms. They have endeavoured- to inspire the Ricaras with similar sentiments, but, happily, without any eon- aideriible effect. The country m which these four bands rove is one continued plain, with scarcely a tree to be seen, except on the water-conrses, or "the steep declivities of hills, wliicli last are but rare : STATISTICAL VIEW. 15:. a the land is fertile, aiul lies extremely well for culti- vation ; many parts of it are but badly watered. It is from this country that the Missouri derives most of its colourinj^' matter j tiic earth is strongly impregnated with giauber salts, aiiim, copperas and siilphiir, and when saturated with watei*, im- mense bodies of tlie hills precipitate themselves into the Missouri, and min,^le with its waters. The waters of this river has a purgative effect on those unaccustomed to use it. I doubt whether these people can ever be induced to become station- ary. Their trade mit^ht be made valuable if they were reduced to order. They claim, jointly with the other band of the Sioux, all the country lying within the following limits, viz. beginning at the confluence of the Demoin and Mississippi, thence up the West side of tJie Mississippi to the mouth of the St. Peters river, thence on both sides of the Mississippi to the mouth of Ci*ow-wing ri- ver, and upwards with that stream, including the waters of the upper part of the same : the^ice to in- clude the waters of the upper portion of Red ri- ver, of lake Winnipie, and down the same nearly to Pembenar river, thence a south-westerly course to intersect the Missouri at or near the Mandans, and with that stream downwards to the entrance of the Warrecunne creek, thence passing the Missouri it goes to include the lower poi'tion of the river Chyenne, all the waters of White river and river Teton, includes the lower portion of the river Qui- curre, and returns to the Missouri, and with that stream downwards to the mouth of Wappidon river, and thence eastwardly to intersect the Mississippi at the beginning. CHYENNE S, They are the remnant of a nation once respect- aWe in point of number : formerly resided on « branch of the Red river of Lake Winnipie, whiel? 15i STATISTICAL YIEAV. still bears their name. Beini^- oppressed by the Sioux, they removed to the west side of the Missouri, about fifteen miles heh)w tlie luouth of Vt arreeunnc creek, wliere they built and foitilied a village, but bein.a; pursued by their ancient enemies the Sioux, they lied to the Black-hills, about the liead of the Chyenne river, where they wander in quest of the buftalo, having no fixed residence. They do not cultivate. They are well disposed tov/ards the whites, and might easily be induced to settle on the Missouri, if they could be assured of being pro- tected from the Sioux. Their number annually diminishes. Their trade may be made valuable. WETEPAHATOES, They are a wandering nation, inhabit an open country, and raise a great number of horses w hich they barter to the Ricaras, Mandans, kc. for arti- cles of European manufacture. They are a well disposed people, and might be readily induced to visit the trading establislin.ents on the Missouri. From the animals their country produces, their trade would, no doubt, become valuable. These people again barter a consiberable proportion of the articles they obtain from the Menetares, Ah» w ahhdways, Mandaris, and Ricaras, to the Dotames ?»nd Castapanus, DOTAMES. The information 1 possess, with respect to tins nation, is derived from Indian information : they are said to be a wandering luation, inhabiting an open country, aiul wlio raise a great number of horses and mules. They are a friendly, well dis- posed people, and might, from the position of their country, be easily induced to visit an establishmcHt STATISTICAL VIEW, 15^ on the Missouri, about the mouth of Chyenne river. They have not, as yet, visited the Mis- souri. CASTAHANA. What has been said of the Dotames is applica- ble to these people, except that tliey trade princi- pally with the Crow Indians, and that they would most probably prefer visiting- an establishment on the Yellow Stone river, or at its mouth on the Mis- souri. CROW INDIANS. These people are divided into four bands, call- ed by themselves Ahah-ar-ro-pir-no-pah, Noo-taa, Pa-rees-car, and E-hart-sar. They annually visit the Mandans, Menetares, and Ahwalihaways, to whom they barter horses, mnles, leather lodges, and many articles of Indian apparel, for which tliey receive in return, guns, ammunition, axes, kettles, awls, and other European manufactures. When they return to their country, they are in turn visit- ed by the Paunch and Snake Indians, to whom they barter most of the articles they have obtained from the nations on the Missouri, for horses and mules, of which those nations have a greater abundance than themselves. They also obtain of tlie Snake Indians, bridle-bits, and blankets, and some other articles which those Indians purchase from tlie Spa- niards. The bridle-bits and blankets I have seen in the possession of the Mandans and Menetares. Their country is fertile, and well vftic^fd. and in most parts well timbered. N % i.^6 STATISTICAL VIEW. PAUNCH INDIANS. These are said to be a peaceable, well disposed nation. Their country is a variegated one, con- sisting of mountains, valleys, plains, and wood- lands, irregularly interspersed. They might be induced to visit the Missouri, at the mouth of the Yellowstone I'iver; and from the great abundance of valuable furi'ed animals, which their country, as well as that of the Crow Indians, pi'oduces, their trade must become extremely valuable. They are a roving people, and have* no idea of exclusive Tight to the soil. M. JIancfopa,"^Os€egaL — Mah tojianatOr Are the descendants of the Sioux, and partake «»{' their turbulent and faithless disposition : they IVcquently plunder, and sometimes murder their own traders. The name by which this nation is generally known was borrowed from the Chippe- ways, who call them Jlsslnniboan, which literally 'i'anslated, is Stone Sioux, hence the name of Stone Indians, by which they are sometimes called. The lountry in w Jiich they rove is almost entirely un- covered with timber; lies extremely level ; and is but badly watered in many parts ; the land, how- ever, is tolerable fertile and unincumbered with stone. They miglit be induced to trade at tlie river Yellowstone; but I do not think that their trade promises much. Their numbers continue about The same. These bands, like tlie Sioux, act en- tirely independent of each other, although they daim a national affinity, and never make war on each other. The country inhabited by the Mahto- panato possesses rather more timber than the other parts of the country. They do not cultivate. STATISTICAL VIEW. i^' CHIPPEWAYS, OF LEACH LAKE. Claim tlie country on both sides of the Missis sippi, from the mouth of the Crow win,^ river to. its source, and extending west of the Mississippi to the lands claimed by the Sioux, with whom they con- tend for dominion. They claim, also, east of the Mississippi, the country extending as far as lake Superior, including the waters of the St. Louis. Tbis country is thickly covered with timber gene- rally; lies level, and generally fertile, though a considerable proportion of it is intersected and broken up by small lakes, morasses and small swamps, particularly about the heads of the Mis- sissippi and river St. Louis. They do not cultivate, but live principally on the wild rice, which they pro- cure in great abundance on the borders of Leach Lake and the banks of the Mississippi. Their number has been considerably reduced by wars and the small-pox. Their trade is at its greatest ex- tent. CHIPPEWAYS OF RED LAKE. Claim the country about Red lake and Red ^ake river, as far as the Red river of lak^' Winnipi b - yond which last river they contend with the Sioux for territory. This is a low Icvd country, and generally thickly covered with timber, interr ipted with many swanips and morasses. Tliis, as well as the other bands of Chippeways, are esteemed the best hunters in the north west country j but from the long residence of this 5)arl in thecaun- try they now inhabit, game is "beoming scarce; therefore, their trad*^ is sapposed to be at its great- est extent. The Cbipj>eways are a well disposed people^, but excessively fond of spirituous liquor. 158 STATISTICAL \IES\. OF RIYER PEMBENA. These people formerly resided on the east side of tiie Mississippi, at Sand lake, but ,were induced, by The north west company, to remove, about two years since, to the river Pembena. They do not claim the lands on which they liunt. The country is level and the soil good. The west side of the river is principally prairies or open plains; on the east side there is a greater proportion of timber. Their trade at present is a very valuable one, and will pro- bably irscrcase for some years. They do not culti- vate^but live by hunting. They are well disposed towards the whites. ALGONQUINS OF RAINY LAKE. AYiTH the precise limits of Ci>untry they claim, I am not informed. They live very mlicli detached, in small parties. The country they iiiliabit is but an indifferent one ; it has been much hunted, and t])e gr.me of course nearly exhausted. They are well disposed towards tlie whites. Their number is said to decrease. They are extronely addicted to spirituous liquor, of which large quantities are annually funiislied them ]iy the North West traders, in return for their bark canoes. Thoy live wi^etch- cdly poor. OF PORTAGE DE PRAIRIE. These people inhabit a low flat, marshy coun- try, mostly covered with timber and well stocked \v ith game. They are emigrants from the lake of the Woods and the country east of it, who were in- troduced, some years since, bv the North West traders in order to hunt the c^> ntry on the lower parts of Red river, which then abounded in a variety STATISTICAL VIEW. • 150 of animals of the fur kind. They are an orderly, well disposed people, but like their relations ©n Rainy lake, addicted to spirituous liquors. Their trade is at its gTcatest extent. CHRITENOES. They are a wandering nation ; do not cultivate, nor claim any particular tract of country. They are well disposed towards the whites, and treat their traders with respect. The country in which tliey rove is j^'cnerally open plains, but in some parts, particularly about the head of the Assinni- boin river, it is marshy and tolerable well fuiTiishcd with timber, as are also the Fort Daupliin mountains, to which they sometimes resort. From the quantity of beaver in their country, they ought to furnish more of that article than they do at present. They are not esteemed good beaver hunters. They might, probably be induced to visit an establish- ment on the Missouri, at the Yellow Stone river. Their number has been reduced by the smali-pox, since they were first known to the Canadians. ALIATONS SNAKE INDIANS These are a numerous and well disposed peo» pie, inhabiting a woody and mountainous country; they are divided into three large tribes, who wan- der at a considerable distance irom each otiier, and are called by themselves So-so-na, So-so'bubar, and La-kar. These are again sub-divided into smaller though independent bands, the names -^F which I have not yet learnt ,• they raise a nuaibe-'af horses and mules, which they trade with the Crow Indi- ans, or are stolen by the nations to the east of them. They maintain a partial trade with the Spaniards, from whom they obtain many articles of clothing and ironmongery, but no warlike implem»nt«. 160 STATISTICAL VIEW. OF THE WEST. These people also inhabit a moiintainoiis coun- try^ and sometinics venture in the plainB oust of the Rocky mountains, about the head of the Arkansas river. Tliev have no more intercourse with tlie Spaniards of Kcw Mexico, than tlic Snake Indians, lliey ai'e said to be vei'v numerous and warlike, but arc badly armed, l^he Spaniards fear these people, and therefore take the precaution not to lurnish tliem with any warlike implements. In their present unarmed state, they frequently com- mit hostilities on the Spaniards. They raise a great many horses. LA PLAYES. They inhabit the rich plains, from the head of the Arkansas, embracing the heads of Red river, and extending with the mountains and high lands eastwardly as far as is known towards tlie gulf of Mexico. They possess no fire arms, but are war like and brave. They are as well as the other Alia- tans, a w andering people. Their country abounds in wild horses, beside great numbers which they raise themselves. These people, and the West Aliatans, miglit be induced to trade with us on the upper part of the Arkansas river. I do not believe that any of the Aliatans claim a country within any particular limits. PANIA PIQUE. These people have no intercourse with the in- habitants of the Illinois ; the information, therefore, which I have been enabled to obtain with respect to them, is very imperfect. They were formerly known by the name of tlie White Panias, and are STATISTICAL VIEW. 161 of the same family witli the Panias of the river Platte. They are said to be a well disposed peo- ple, and inhabit a very fertile country 5 certain it is, that they enjoy a delightful climate. PADUCAS. This once powerful nation lias, apparently en- tirely disappeared ; every inquiry I have made af- ter them has proved ineffectual. ' In the year 1724, they resided in several villages on tlic head of the Kansas river, and could, at tliat time, bring up- wards of two thousand men into the field. (See Monsieur Dupratz History of Louisiana, page 71, and the Map attached to that work.) The informa- tion that I have received is, that being oppressed by the nations residing on the Missouri, they removed to the upper part of the river Platte, where they af- terwards had but little intercourse with the whites. They seem to have given name to the northern branch of the river, which is still called tlie Paducas Fork. The most probable conjecture is, tliat be- ing still further reduced, they have divided into small wandering bands, which assumed the names of the sub-divisions of the Paducas nation, and are known to us at present under the a])])eliation of AVetepahatocs, Kiavras, Kanenavish, Katteka, Do- tame, &c. who still inliabit the country to which the i*aducas are said to have removed. Tiie majority of my information led me to believe, that those peo- ple spoke different languages, but other and subset quent information has induced me to 4oubt the fact. CEnd of the Statistical view.) HISTORICAL SKETCHES OF THE SEVERAL i.yj)M^* TRIBES Ly LOUISIAJ^.l, SOUTH OF THE ARKANSAS RIVER, AND BETWEEN THE MISSISSIPPI AA'-D RIVER GRJJ^V. CADDOQUES. They Uve about thirty-five miles west of t^« main branch of Red river, on a bayou or ci-eek called by them Sodo, which is navigable for peroques only within about six miles of their village, and that only in the rainy season. They are distant from Natchi- toches about one hundred and twenty miles, the nearest route by land, and in n^^arly a north west direction. They have lived wAere they now do only five years. The fii-st year they moved there, the small-pox got amongst t^em and destroyed nearly one half of them; it was in the winter season, and tliey practised plunging into the creek on the first appearance of th*' eruption, and died in a few hours. Two years age they had the measles, of whicli seve- ral more of «iem died. They formerly lived on the aoiithbanJ^ of the river, by the coui'se of the river tliree h rs fr'>ni time im nem )rial, Th'-y I'wv^' a traditionary tale which not only the Caddys, b it half a d j-zen other small t nati ns be- lieve in, who claim th ^ honour of being dcsccadants O idi HISTORICAL SKETCHES of the same fisiiiily ^ they say, when all theworid was dii>wiii=d by a liood that inundated the whole ctJuntrv , the^ great Spirit placed on an eminence near this laki>, one family of Caddoques, who alone were saved ; irom that family all the Indians originated. 1'he Trench, tor many years before Louisiana was transferred to Spain, had, at this place, a fort and some soldiers ; several French families vverc likewise settled in the vicinity, where they had erec- ted a good flour mill with burr stones brought from France, Tliese French families continued tliere till about twenty-fjve yeais i-.go, when they moved down aiui setUed at Campti, on tlie Rcdtiver, above Natchitoches, where they now live ; and the Indians left it about fourteen years ago, on account of a dreadful sickness that >ifeited them. They settled on the river nearly opposite, where they now live, on a low place, but w ere driven t4ience on account of its overiiowing, occasioned by a jam of timber choking the river at a point beloV them. The wliole number of what they call warriors of the ancient Caddo nation, is now reduced to about one hujidred, who are looked upon somewhat like knights of Malta, or some distinguished military order. They are brave, despise danger of death, and boast that they ^avc never shed wliitc man's blood. Besides these, \here are of old men and strangers who live among ^hem, nearly the same number; but there are forty ^v fifty more women than men. This nation has grt^at influence over the Yattassees, Nandakoes, Naba€iaches, Inies or Yachies, Nagogdoches, Keycchies, \daize and Yatchitoches, who all speak the Caddo language^ look up to tliem as their fathers; visit and intti»marry among them, and join them in all tlieir wars. The Cadoquescom plain of the Chactaws en- croaching upon their country; call them lazy, thievish, kc. There has been a misunderstanding between them for several years, and small hunting parties kill 0!}C another when they meet. HISTORICAL STCETCIIES. 165 The Caddocs raise corn, beans, pumpkins, &c. ; hut th;^ land on whicli thcj now live is aprairie, ot a white tlav soil, very fiat; tlieir crops are subject to injury, either by too wot or too dry a seas .n. 1 hey have 'horses, but few of any other domestic ani- mals, except dogs ; most of them have guns, an(| some have riiies ; they, and all dther Indians tliat we have any knowledge of, are at war wita tno Osasjes. >-, , , -^ The country, generally, round tlie Caddoes i^ hiiiv, not verv ricn ; grov^th in mixture of oak, hickorv, and'^pine, in erspersed with praines, which 'are very rich generally, and fit for cuUiva- tion. There are creeks and springs of good water frequent. YATTASSEES. They live on Bavou Pierre, (or Stony creek) which falls into Red river, western division, about fifty miles above Natchitoches. Their village is m a large prairie ab*ut iialf way between the Caddo- qmn and JMatchitoches surrounded by a settlement of French families. The Spanish government at present exercise jurisdiction over this settlement, where they keep a guard of a n:.n-commissionca ofiicer and eight soldiers ^ .^i x- A few months ago, the Caddo cliief with a tew of his young men were coming to this place to trade, and came by that way which is the usual road, The Spanish officer of the guard tijreatcnedto stoij them from trading with the Americans, and told the e]ii.n^ if he returned that way with tlie goods he should take tliem from him ; the cliief and his party were angry, and threatened to kill the whole guard, and lold tiiem that road had been al:vays theirs and that if the Spaniards attempted to prevent their using it as tlieir ancestors had always done, he would soon make it a bloody road. He came here, ]5uvehased the goods he wanted, and might have IG6 HISTORICAL SKETCHES, returned another way and avoided the Spanist guard, and ^Yas advised to do so ; but he siiid he would pass by them, ajid let tliem attempt to stop him if they dared.. The guard said nothing to him as he returned. This settlement, till sr^me few years ago, used to bf^org to tlie district of Natchitoches, and the rights to their hinds werr given by tlie government of Louisiana, before it was ceded to Spain, It's now being under the gcvernment of Tax us, was only an agreement between tlie commandant of Katchitoches and the commandant of Nagogdoches. The French formerly had a station and factory there, and another on the Sabine river, nt ttrly one hundred miles nortli-wcst from the Eavou Pierre si4tlement. The Yattassees now say, ti)?.- trench used to be their people, and now the Americans. But of the ancient Yattassecs there are but eight men remaining, and twenty-five women, besides ciiildren ; but a number of men of other nations have intermarried with them and live together. I paid a visit at their village last summer; there were about forty men of them altogether : their ori- ghnil language differs fi*om any other; but now, all speak Caddo. They live on rich land, raise plenty of corn, beans, bumpkins, tobacco^ &c. have horses, cattle, hogs and poultry. NAKDAKOES. TiiEY live w the Sabine Hver, sixty or seventy miles to the westwaid of Yattassees, near where the French formerly had a station and factory^ Their language is Caddo: about ten men only of tliem remaining. A few years ago they suffered very much by the small-pox. They consider them- selves the same as Caddoes, with whom they inter- marry, and are occasionally, visiting one another in the greatest harmony : have the same manners, eujstoms and attachments. HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 16: ADAIZE. They live about forty miles from NatcIiitocJies, below the Yattassees, on a lake called Lac Macdon, which communicates with the division of Red river that passes by Bayou Pierre. They live at or near where their ancestors have lived from time imme- morial. They being the neai-est nation to the old Spanish foi-t, or Mission of Adaize, that place was named after them, being about twenty miles from them, to the south. There are now but twenty men of them remaining, but more women. Their lan- guage differs from all others, and is so difiicidt to speak or understand, that no nation can speak ten words of it ; but they all speak Caddo, and most of them French, to whom they were always attached, and joined them against the Natchez Indians. Af- ter the massacre of the Natchez, in 17 98, while the Spaniards occupied the post of A.daize, their priests took much pains to pi-oselytc these Indians t^ the Roman Catholic religion, but, I am in formed, were totally unsuccessful. ALICHE, ( Commonly jjronounced EydsJuJ They live near Nacogdoche.s, but are almost extinct, as a nation, not being more than twenty- five souls of them remaining: four years ago the small-pox destroyed a greater part of theju. They were some yeai*s ago, a considerable i! at ion, and lived on a Bayou which bears their name, v> hich (he road from Natchitoches to Nacogdoches crosses, about twelve miles west of Sabine river, on which a few French and American families are settled. Their native language is spoken by no other na- tion, but they speak and understand Caddo, with IV bom they are in amity, often visiting one another. 2 168 HISTORICAL SKETCHES KEYES, OR KEYCHIES. They live on the east bank of Trinity river,, a small distance above where the road from Natchi- toches to St. Antoine crosses it. There are of tlicm sixty men : have their peculiar native Ian- g'iiage, biit mostly now speak Caddo ; interman'y \vi! !i them, and live together in much harmony, for- rjQeily laving lived near them, on the head waters of the Sabine. They plant corn, and some othei? ve-gotables^ INIES, OR TACHIES. Fi^oM the latter name the name of the province of Tacl'us or Taxiss is derived.. The Inies live aboi.t fifteen ivilles west of Natchitoches, on a smaller river a branch ef Sabine, called the Natches. They are, like all their neij^hbours, diminishing; but hiive now eighty men. Their ancestors, for a long 11111-^, lived where they now do. Their language the same as tliat of the Caddoes, with whom they areih ;s:reat amity. These Indians have a good char»c» Ur,, live on excellent land, and raise corn to sell. NABEDACHES. They- live on the west side of the same river^ about fifteen miles above tliem ; have about the same number of men ; speak the same language ; live on the best of land; raise corn in plenty; have the same manners, customs and attachments. BEDIES. They are on the Trinity river, about sixty miles ^0 the southward of Nacog.doches ; have one hun- HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 169 drcd men ; are good hunters for deer, which are very large, and plenty about them; plant, and make good crops of corn ,• language differs from all otliers, but speak Caddo ; are a peaceable quiet peo- ple, and have an excellent character for their ho- nesty and punctuality. ACCOCKESAWS. Their ancient town and pi-incipal place of re- sidence is on the west side of Colerado or Rio Rouge, about two hundred miles south-west of Na- cogdoches, but often change their place of residence for a season ; being near the bay, make great use of fish, oysters, &c — kill a great many deer, whidi ai*e the largest and fattest in the province ; and their country is universally said to be inferior to no part ©f the province in soil, growth of timber, goodness ©f water, and beauty of surface ; have language peculiar to themselves, but have a mode of commu- nication by dumb signs, which they alLunderstand ; Kiimber about eighty men. Thirty of forty years ago, the Spaniards had a mission here, but broke it up or removed it to Nacogdoches. They talk of re- settling it, and speak in the highest terms of the <>ountry. MAYES. Thet live on a large creek called St. Gabriel, on the bay of St. Bernai'd, near the mouth of Gauda- loupe river ; are estimated at two hundred men ; never at peace with the Spaniards, towards whom they are said to possess a fixed hatred, but profess great friendship for the French, to whom they have been strongly attached since Monsieur de Salle landed in their neighbourhood. The place where there is a talk of the Spaniards opening a new port, and making a settlement^ is neai' them y where the 170 HISTORICAL SKETCHK^5 party, with the governer of St. Aiitoiuc, \Yho\\eic there last faJl to examine it, say they found the re- mains of a French block-house; some of the can non now at Labahic are said to have been brought from that place, and known by the engraving now to be seen on them. The Frcrich speak highly of these Indians for their extivme kindness and hospitality to all Frenclnnen who have been amongst them ; have a language of their own, but speak Attakapa, which is a language of their nciglibours the Carankouas ; they have likewise a way of conveisiiig by signs. CARANKOUAS. They live on an island, or peninsula, in the bay of St. L'ernard, in lengtli about ten miles, and five in breadth ; the soil is extremely rich and pleasant ; on one side of which there is a high bluff, or moun- tain of coal, which has been on fire for many years, affording always a light at night, and a strong thick smoke by day, by which vessels are sometimes de- ceived and lost on the shoaly coast, which shoals are said to extend nearly out of sight of land. From this burning coal, there is emitted a gummy substance the Spaniards called chctaf which is thrown on the shore by the surf, a^d collected by them in considerable quantities, which they are fond of chewing ; it has the appearance and con- sistaiice of pitch, of a strong, aromatic, and not disagreeable smell. These Indians are irreconcila- ble enemies to the Spaniards, always at war with them, and kill them wlienever they can. The Spa- niards caJl them cannibals, but the French give them a different character, who have always been treated kindly by them since Monsieur de Salle and his party were in their neighbourhood. They are said to be five hundred men strong, hut I have not been able to estimate their nunibers from any very accurate information ; in a short time expect to be HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 171 well informed. They speak the Attakano language ; are friendly and kind to all other Indians, and, I presume, are much like all others, notwithstanding what t]ie Spaniards say of them ; for nature is ever}'^ where tiie same. Last summer an old Spaniard came to me from Labaliie, a iourney of about live hundred miles, to have a barbed arrow taken out of his shoulder, tiiiitonc of these Indians had shot in it. I found it under his shoulder-blade, near nine inches, and hid to cut a new place to get at the point of it, in or- dr to get it out the contrary way from that in Wiiiclk it had entered : it was made of a pipce of an iron hoop, with wings like a iluke and an inclic. CANCES. They are a very numerous nation, consisting of a great many different tribes, occupying diffe- rent parts of the country, from tJic bay of Bt. Ber- nard, across river Grand, towards La Vera Cruz, They are not friendly to the Spaniards, and gene- rally kill them when they have an opportunity. They are attached to the French ; are good hunters, principally using the bow, Tlicy are very particu- lar in their dress, which is made of neatly dressed leather; the women wear a long loose robe, resem- bling that of a Franciscan friar ; notliing but their heads and feet are to be seen. The di^ss of the men are straight leather leggins, resembling panta- loons, and a leather hunting-sliirt, or frok. No es> limate can be made of their number. Thirty or forty years ago the Spaniards used to make slaves of thein when they could take them; a considerable number of theia were brought to Natchitoches and sold to the French inhabitants at forty or fifty dollars a head, and a number of them are still liVing here, but are now free. About twenty years ago an order came from the king of Spain that no niove Indians should be made slaves^ 172 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. and those that were enslaved should bfe emancipated^ after wliieh some of the women who had been ser- vants in good families, and tjuight spinning, sew- ing', ^c. as well fcs managing household aliairs, married natives of tiie country, and became respec- table, \\\\\ behaved wonu n, and have now, growing lip, decent families of cluidren : have a language peculiar to themselves, and are understood, by signs, by all otliers. I'hey are in amity wdth all otJier Indians except the Hietans. TANKAWAYS, OR TANKS. As the French call them, have no land nor claim the exclusive right to any, nor liave any particular place of abode, out are always moving, alternately occupying the country watered by the Trinity, Braces, and Colorado, towards St. a Fe, Resemble in their dress, the Cances and Hietans, but all in one horde or tribe. Their number of men is esti- mated at about two hundred ; are good hunters, kill buffalo and dear with the bow; have the best breed of horses ; are alternately friends and enemies of the Spaniards. An old ti-adei* lately inforwed me, that he had received five thousand deer skins from them in one year, exclusive of tallow, rugs and tongues. They plant nothing, but live upon wild fruits and flesh : are strong, atldetic people, and excellent horsemen. TAWAKENOES, OR THREE CANES. ^They are called by both names indifferently ; live on tlie west side of the Braces, hut are often, for montiis at a time, lower down than their usual place of residence, in the great prairie at the Tor- tuga, or Turtle, called so from its being a hill in the prairie, wliich at a distance, appears in the fm-m of s turtle; upon wliich there are some remarkable HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 173 springs of water. Their usual residence is about two hundred miles to the westward of Nacogdjches, towards St. a F^. They arc estiiiiatcd at tw > iiun- dred men: are good iiunters; have i^uns, but liurit principally with the bow : are supplied with goods from Nacogdoches, and pay for them in rugs, tongues, tallaw, and skins. They speak the same language as the Panics, or Towiaclies, and pretend to have descended from the same ancestors, PANIAS, OR TOWIACHES. The French call them Panis, [ind the Spaniards Towiaches ; the latter is the proper Indian «a.ae. Ihey live on the south side of Red river; by the eourse of the river up\5rards of eight hundred miles above Natchitoches, and by land, by the nearest path, IS estimated at about four hundred and forty. They have two towns near together; the lower town, where the chief lives, is called Niteheta, and the other is called Towaahach. They call their pre- sent chief the Great Bear. Tiiey arc at war with the. Spaniards, but friendlv to* those French and American hunters who have*^latcly been amonff them. They are likewise at war with the Osages, as are every other nation. For raanv hundreds of miles round theiji, the country is rich prairie, co- hered with luxuriant grass, whicli is green, summer ^nd winter, with skirts of wood on the river bank, jy tlie springs and creeks. They have many horses and mules. They raise more corn, pumpkins, beans and tobacco, than they want for their own consumption ; the surplusage they exchange with the Hietans for buffalo ruM, horses, and mules ; the pumpkins thev cut round m their shreads, and when it is in a state of dry- ness, that it is so tough it will not break but bend, they plait and work it into large mats, in which state they sell it to the Hietans, who as they traveL cut off and eat it as they want it. Their tobacco 174 mSTORICAL SKETCHES. they manufacture and cut as fine as tea, which is put in leather bags of a ceilain size, and is likewise an article of traa :. They have but few guns, and very little ammunition ; what they have they keep for war, iaid hunt with the bow. Their meat is princjpaily buifalo ; seldom kill a deer, though th^^y are so plenty that they come into their villages, and about their houses, like a domestic animal ; elks, bears, wolves, antelopes and wild hogs are likewise plenty in their country, and white rabbits, orhares,^ as well as the common rabbit : wliite bears some- times come down amongst them, and wolves of va- rioflis colours. The men generally go entirely na- ked, and the women he arly so, only wearing a snikll flap of a piece of a skin. They have a number of Spaniards among them, of fair complexion, taken from the settlement of St. a Fe, when they were children, who live as they do, and have no know- ledge of where they came from. Their language differs from that of any other nation, the Tawake- Moes excepted. Their present number of men is esti- mated at about four hundred. A great number of them, four years, v/ere swept off by the small-pox. HIETANS, OR COMANCHES. Who are likewise called by both names, have no fixed place of residence ; have neither towns nor villages ; divided into so many diiferent hordes or tribes, that they have scarcely any knowledge of one another. No estimate oi their numbei*s can well be made. They never remain in the same place more than a few days, but follow the buffalo, tlieflpsli of wiueh is their principal food. Some of tliem j>ecasi:^aally pui'chase of the Panis, corp, beans, and pnpk ins ; b:»t they are so numerous, that any quairiily ?f th^ s^^ articles the Panls are able tosujViv tn< .n vitf^ m ist laake hut a small propor- ti^n >f their fo d. Ths'y have tents made )f neatly di*cbsed*skias, fasiiioned in tiie form of a cone, suf- HISTORICAL SKETCHES. I7i> ficieiitly roomy for a family of ten or twelve per- sons ; those of the chiefs will contain occasionally fifty or sixty persons. Wiien tiiey stop, their tents are pitched in very exact order, so as to form regu- lar streets and squares, which in a few minutes has the appearance of a town, raised, as it wei*e hy en- cliantment^ and tliey are equally dexterous in striking tlieir tents and pi'eparin.^ for a march wlien the signal is given ; to every tent two horses or mules are alloted, one to carry the tent, and ano- ther the poles or sticks, wliich are neatly made of red cedar, they travel on horsehack. Their horses they never turn loose to graze, hut always keep them tied with a long cab r as or halter ; and evciy two or three days they arc obliged to remove on account of all the grass near tliem being eaten up, they have such numbers of horses. They arc good horsemen and have good horses, most of which are bred by themselves ; and being accustomed from when very young to be handled, they arc remarka- bly docile and gentle. They sometimes catch wild horses, which are every wiierc among tliem in im- mense droves. They hunt down the buftalo on Iiorscbaek, and kill them either with the bow or a sharp sficiv like a spear, which they carry in their liands. They are generally at war with the Spa- niards, often committing depredations upon the in- Iiabitaiits of St. a Fe and St. Antoine ; but liave al- svays been friendly and civil td any French or Ame- licans who have been among them. They arc strong athletic, and the elderly men as fiit as though they had lived upon American beef and porter. it is said, that the man who kills a buffalo, catclrcs the blood, and drinks it while warm ; they likewise eat the liver raw, before it is*c(ikl, and use the gall by way of sause. They are, for savages, uncom- monly cleanly in their persoj.s : tlie dress of the women is a long loose I'obe, that reaches from their chin to the ground, tied round with a fancy sash, or girdle, all made of neatly dressed leathei-, oii which they paint figures of different colours and significa- i7-^ HISTORICAL SKETCHES. lions : the dress of the men is close leather panta- loons, and a huntini; shirt, or frock of the same. Tliey ncvei* remain long enough in the same place to plant any thing: the small Cayenne pepper grows spontaneously in the country, with which, and some wild herhs and fruits, particularly a hean that grows in great plenty on a small tree resem- bling a willow, called masketo, the women cook tlieir buffalo beef in a manner tliat would be grate- ful to an American squire. They alternately occupy tlie immense space of country from the Trinity and Braces, crossing the Red river, to the heads of Ar~ k ansa and Missouri, to the river Grand, and be- yond it, about St. a Fe, and over the dividing ridge -xm the waters of tlic Western ocean, where they say they have seen large peroques, with masts to them ', in describing which, they have seen vessels ascending a river, over which was a draw-bridge that opened to give them a passage. I'lieir native language of sounds differs from the language of any other nation, and none can either speak or un- derstand it; but they have a language by signs, tlitit all Indians understand, and by whicli they con- verse much among themselves. Tliey have a num- ber of Spanish men and women among thein, who are slaves, wliieh they made prisoners when young. An elderly gentleman now living at Natchitoches, who, some years ago, carried on a trade with the llictans, a few years*^ ago, related to me the follow- i]ig story: ''About twenty years ago a party of these In- dians passed over the Grand river to Cliewawa, the residence of the governor-general of what is called the Five Internal Provinces ; lay in ambush for an opportunity, and made jn-isoner the gover- nor' .^daughter, a young lady going in her coacli to mass, and brought her off. The governor sent a message to him (my infoniiant) with a tlvousand dollars, for the purpose of recovering his daugliter : he imniicdiately despatclied a confidential trader for the purpose of recovering his daughter, then in his HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 175 employ, with the amount of the thounsand dollars in mei'chandise, who repaired to the nation, found her, and purchased her ransom ; but to his great surpi'ise, she refused to retui*n with him to her fa« ther, and sent, by him, the following message: ** That the Indians had disfigured her face by tattoo- ing it, according to their fancy and ideas of beauty, and a young man of them had taken her for his w ife, by whom she believed herself pregnant ; that she had become reconciled to their mode of life, and was well treated by her husband; and that she should be more unhappy by returning to her father, under these circumstances, than ^by remaining where she was:" Which message was conveyed to her father, who rewarded the ti*aderby a present of three hundred dollars more for his trouble and fidd- ity. His daughter is now living with her Indian bus- band in the nation, by whom she has three children." NATCHITOCHES, Formerly lived w^here the town of JNatchito- ches is now situated, which took its name from them. An elderly French gentleman lately told me, he remembered when tliey were six hundred strong. I believe it is now ninety-eight years since the French first established themselves at Natchi- toches ; ever since these Indians have been their steady and faithful friends. After the massacre of the French inhabitants of Natchez, by the Natchez Indians, in 172S, those Indians, fled from the French, after being reinforced, and came up Red river, a.nd encampted about six miles below the town of Natchitoches, near the river, by the side of a small lake of clear water, and erected a mound of considerable size, where it now remains. Mon- sieur St. Dennie, a French Canadian, was thcH commandant at Natchitoches ; the Indians called him the Big Foot, were fond of him, for he was a brave raan^ St. Dennie, w ith a few French flol i76 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. diers, and wliat malitia he could miister joined by *he Natchitoches Indians, attacked the Natchez in their camp, early in the morning : tliey defended ilesperatedly for six hours, hut were at length totally defeated by St. Dcnnie, and those of them tlsat were not killed in battle, were driven into the lake, where the last of them perished, and the Natchez, as a nation, become extinct. Tlie lake is now called by no other name than the Natchez lake. Tlieir are now remaining of the Natchito- ches but twelve men and nineteen women, who live in a village about twenty-Hve miles by land above the town, which bears their name, near a lake., called by the French Lac de Mnire, Their original language is the same as the Yattassec, but speak Caddo, and most of them French. The French inhabitajits have great respect for ibis nation ; and a nuuiber of vei'^ decent families have a mixture of their blood in them. They claim but a small tract of land, on which they live, and I am informed, have the same lights to it from go- vernment, that other inhabitants in their neigh- bourhood have. They are gradually wasting away ; the small-pox has been their great destroyer. They still preserve their Indian dress and habits ; raise corn and those vegetables common in tlieir neigh- bourhood. BOLUXAS. Are emigrants from near Pensacola. They came to Red liver about forty-two years ago, with some French families, who left tli at country aboul the time Pensacola was taken possession of by the English. They were then a consideiably numerous tribe, and have generally embraced the Roman Ca- tliolic religion, and were evei* highly esteemed b\ the French. Tliey settled first at Avoyall, theit moved higher up the Rapide Bayou, and from thence to the mputh of Reguia de Bondien, a dlvi- HISTORICAL SKETCHES. irr sion of Red river, about forty miles below Natchi- tochesjwhere they now live, and are reduced to about thirty in number. Their native language is pecu> liar to themselves, but speak Mobilian which is sj)oIvcn by all tlie Indians from the east side of the Mississippi. They arc an honest, harmless, and friendly people. APPALACHES. They are likewise emigrants from West Flo- rida, from oft' the river whose name they bear ; came over to Red river about the same time the Boluxas did, and have, ever since lived on tile river about Bayou Rapide. No nation have been more highly esteemed hj the Fvench inhabitants; no complaints against them are ever heard ; there are only fourteen men remaining ; have their own lan- guage, but speak French and Mobilian. ALLIBAMIS. They are likewise from West Florida, off the Allibami river, and came to Red river about the same time of the Boluxas and Appal aches. Part of them have lived on Red river, about sixteen miles above the Bayou Rapide, till last year, when most of this party, of about thirty men, went up Red river, and have settled theHiselves near the Caddoques, where, I am info?'n>ed, they last year has a good crop of corn. The Caddoques are friendly to them, and have no objection to tlieir settling there. They speak the Greek and Chataw languages, and Mr>bilian; most of them French, and some of them English, There is another party of tliem, whose village is on a small creek, in xippelousa disiriet, about thii'ty miles north west from the churcli of Appelousa. They consist of about forty men. They have lived P 2 178 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. at the same place ever since they came from Flo- I'ida ; are said to be increasing a little in numbers, for years past. They raise coi*n, have horses, hogs arid cattle, and are harmless quiet people. CONCHATTAS. TiiEY are almost the same people as the Alliba- mis, but came over only ten years ago ; first lived on Bayou Chico, in Appelousa district ; but, four years ago, moved to the river Sabine settled them- selves on the east bank, where they now Hve, in nearly p, south direction from Natchitoches, and dis- tant about eighty miles. They call their number of men about one hundred and sixty ; but say, if they were all together, tliey would amount to two hun- dred. Several families of them live in detached settlements. They are good hunters. Game is plenty. A few days ago, a small party of them were here, consisting of fifteen persons, men, women, and cliildren, who were on their return from a bear hunt up the Sabine. They told me they had killed one hundred and eighteen ; but this year an uncommon number of bears have come down. One man alone, on the Sabine, during the summer and fall hunting, killed four hundred deer, sold his skins at forty dollars a hundred. The bears this N ear are not ho fat as common ; tiiey usually yield from eight to tv/elve gallons of oil, each of which never sells for less than a dollar a gallon, and the skin a dollar more. No great quaiitity of the meat «s saved. What the hunters do not use when out, (hey ^generally give to the dogs. The Conchattas are friendly with all other Indians, and speak well of their neighbours the Carankouas, who, they say live about eighty miles south of them, on the bay, which I believe, is the nearest point to the sea from Natchitoches. A few families of Chactaws haVic lately settled near them from Bayou Boeuf. Thie Conchattas speak Greek, which is their native Ian* HISTORICAL SKETCHES. iSi guage, and Chactaw, and several of them English, and one or two of thcni can read it a little. PACANAS. They are a small tribe of about thirty men, wlio live on the Quelqueshoe river, which falls into the bay between Attakappa and Sabine, which heads in a prairie called Cooko Prairie, about forty miles south west of Natchitoches. These people are likewise emigrants from West Florida, about forty years ago. Theii' village is about fifty miles south-east of the Conchattas; are said to be in- creasing a little in number; quiet, peaceable, and friendly people. Their own language differs from any other, but speak Mobilian, ATTAKAFAS. This word, I am informed, when translated into English, means Man-eater, but is no more applica- ble to them than any other Indians. The district they live in is called after them. Their village is about twenty -fine miles to the westward of the Attakappa church, towards Quelqueshoe. Their number of men is about fifty, but some Tunicas and Humas, who have married in their nation, and live with them altogether about eighty. They ai'e peace- able and friendly to every body ; labour, occasion- ally, for the white inhabitants; raise their own corn ; have cattle and hogs. Their language and the Carankouas is the same. They were, or near where they now live, when that part of the country was first discovered by the French* 182 HISTORICAL SKETCHES APPALOUSA. It is said the word Appalousa, in tlic Indiavj. language, means, Black head, or Black skull. They are aborigines of the district called by their name. Their village is about fifteen miles west from the Appalousa church ; have about forty -five men. Theii* native language differs from all other ; understand Attacapa, and speak French^ plant corn, have cattle and hogs. TUNICAS. These people lived formerly on the Bayou Tu- nica, above Point Coupee, on the MissiSvSippi, east side; live now at Aveyall; do not at present ex- ceed twenty-five men. Their native language is peculiar to themselves, but speak Mobilian; arc employed, occasionally, by the inhabitants as boat- men, «Scc. are in amity with all other people, and gradually diminishing in numbei-s. PASCAGOLAS. These people live in a small village on Red river, about sixty miles below Natcliitoches ; ai-e emigrants from Pascagola river, in West Florida ; twenty -five men of them only remaining ; speak Mobilian, but have a language peculiar to them- selves ; most of them speak and understand French. They raise good crops of corn, and garden vegeta- bles ^ have cattle, horses, ^.iid poultry plenty. TENISAWS. They arc likewise emigrants from the Tenne*^ sau river, that falls into the bay of Mobile ; have HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 18S Kcsided on Red river about forty years ; are re- duced to about twenty -five men. Their village is within one mile of the Pascagolas, on the opposite side; but have lately sold their land, and have, or are about moving to Bayou Bo&uf, about twenty- five miles south from where they lately lived. All speak French and Mobilian, and live much like tlieir neighbours the Pascagolas. CHATTOOJS. / They live on Bayou Boeuf, about ten miles to the southward of Bayou Hapide, on Red river, to- wards Appalousa : a small honest people ; are abo- rigines of the country where they liA^e^ of men about thirty ; diuiinishing : have their own peculiar tongiie; speak Mobilian. The lands they claim on Bayou Boiuf are inferior to no part of Louisiana in deptli and richness of soil, growth of timber, pleasantness of surHice, and goodness of water. The Bayou Boiuf falls into the Cliaffeli, and dis- ehaiges, through Appelousa and Attakapa and Ver- million bay. WASHAS. When the French first came into the Missis- sippi, this nation lived on an island to the south- west of New-Orleans, called Barritaria, and were the first tribe of Indians they became acquainted with, and were always friends. They afterwards lived on Bayou LaFosh,- and, from being a consi- derable nation, are now reduced to five persons only, two men and three women, who are scattered m French families ; have beeamany years extinct* as a nation, and tlieir native language is lost. IS* HISTORICAL SKETCJIE&. CHACTAWS. Theke are a considerable number of this nation on the west side of the Mississippi, who have not been home for several years. Abont twelve miles above the post on Ouacheta, on that river, there is a small village of them of about tliirty men, who have lived there for several years, and made corn; and likewise on Bayou Chica, in the northern part of the district of Appalousa, there is another vil- lage of them of about fifty men, who have been there for about nine years, and say they have the governor of Louisiana's permission to settle there. Besides these, there are rambling hunting pai-ties of them to be met with all over Lower Louisi- ana. They are at war with the Caddoques, and liked by neither red nor white people. ARKANSAS. They live on the Arkansa river, south side, in three villages, about twelve mUes above the post, or station. The name of the first village is Tow- anima; second Oufotu, and the third Ocapa; in all, it is believed, they do not at present exceed one hundred men, and diminishing. They are at war with the Osages, but friendly with all other people, white and red ; are the original proprietors of the country on the river, to all which tliey claim, for about three hundi'cd miles above them, to the junc- tion of the river Cadwa with Arkansa; above this fork the Osages claim. Their language is Osage. They generally raise corn to soil ; are called hone*?t suid friendly people. ORIGIN. The means," says an ingenious traveller, " by wliicfi America received its first inhabitants, have, since the time of its discoveiy by the Europeans, been the subject of numberless disquisitions. Was I to endeavour to collect the different opinions and reasonings of the various writers that have taken up the pen in defence of their conjectures, the enu- meration would much exceed the bounds I have pre- scribed to myself, and oblige me to be less explicit on points of greater moment. From the obscurity in which this debate is enveloped, through the total ^disuse of lettei-s among every nation of Indians on this extensive continent, and the uncertainty of oral tradition at the distance of so many ages, I fear, that even after the most minute investigation, we shall not be able to settle it with any great degree of certainty. And this apprehension will receive additional force, when it is considered that the di- versity of language, which is apparently distinct between most of the Indians, tends to ascertain tliat this population was not effected from one particular country, but from several neighbouring ones, and completed at different periods. Most of the histo- rians, or travellers that have treated on the Ameri- can Aborigines, disagree in theii- sentiments illa- tive tothem. Many of the ancients are supposed to have known that tliis quarter of tlic globe not only existed, but also tliat it was inhabited. Plato m hisTim^us has asserted, that beyond the island wluch h.e calls Atalantis, and which, according to liis discripti:>n, was situated in the SVestern Ocean, there were a gi-eat number of other islands, and behind those a vast continent. Ovicdo, a celebrated Spanish author, of a :nuch later date, lias made no scruple to ftftirm, that the Antilles are the famous 186 THEIR ORIGIN; Hesperidcs, so often mentioned by the poets ; whicli arc at length restored to the kings of Spain, the descendants of king Hesperus, who lived upwards of three thousand years ago, and from whom these islands received their name. Two other Spaniards, the one Father Gregorio Garcia, a Dominican ; tlie other Father Joseph De Acosta, a Jesuit, have writen on the origin of the Americans. The former, who had been employed in the missions of Mexico and Peru, endeavoured to prove from the traditions of the Mexicans, Peruvians, and others which he received on the spot, and from the vaiiety of cha- racters, customs, languages and religion observed in the dijfferent countries of the New World, that different nations had contributed to the peopling of it. The latter. Father* De Acosta, in his cxamina tion of the means by which the first Indians of Ame- rica might have found a passage to that continent,* discredits the conclusions of those who have sup- posed it to be sea, because no ancient autlior has made mention of the compass ; and concludes, that it must be either by the north of Asia and Europe, which adjoin to each other, or by those regions tliat Me to the southward of the Straits of Magellan. He also rejects the assertions of such as have ad- vanced that it was peopled by the Hebrews. John de Laet, a Flemish writer, has controverted the opinions of these Spanish fathei's, and of many others who have writen on the same subject. TJic hypothesis lie endeavours to establish, is,* that Ame- rica was certainly peopled by tiie Scytliians orTai*- tars, and tliat the transmigration of these people happened soon after the dispersion of Noah's gi-and- sons. He undertakes to show, tliat the most nor- thern Americans liave a greater resemblance, not only in the features of their countenances, but also in their complexion and manner of living, to Vm Scythians, I'ai'tars and Samueides, than to any other nations. In answer to Grotius, who had as- sei'ted that some of tlie Norwegians passed into America by way of Greenland, and over a vast con- THEIR ORmiN. 1S7 tinent, he says, that it is well known tliat Greenland was not discovered till the year 96^ ; and both Go- mcra and Herrera inform us, tliat the Chiclume- ques were settled on the lake of Mexico in 721. He adds, that these savages, according to the uni- form tradition of the Mexicans who "dispossessed them, came from the country since called New Mexico, and from the neighbourhood of Califor- nia; consequently North America must have been inhabited many ages before it could receive any inhabitants from Norway, hy way of Greenland. It is no less certain, he obser^ es, tliat the real Mexicans founded their empire in 902, after hav- ing subdued the Chichimeques, the Otomias, and other barbarous nations, who had taken possession of the country round the lake of Mexico, and each of whom spoke a language peculiar to themselves. The real Mexicans are likewise supposed to come •from some of the countries that lie near California, and that they performed their journey for the most part by land ; of course they could not come from Norway. De Laet further adds, that though some of the inhahitants of North America may have entered it from the north-west, yet, as it is related by Pliny, and seme other writers, that on many of the islands near the western coast of Afi'ica, par- ticularly on tlie Canaries, some ancient edifices were seen, it is highly probable from their being now deserted, that the inhabitants may have passed over to America ; the passage neither long nor difficult. Tliis migration, according to the calcu- lation of those autiiors, must have happened more than two thousand years ago, at a time wlien the Spaniards were much troubled by the Carthagi- nians ; from whom having obtained a knowledge of navigation and the construction of ships, they might have retired to the Antilles, by way of the western isles, which were exactly half way on their voyage. He thinks also, that Great Britain, Ire- land, and the Orcades were extremely proper to ^dmit of a similar conjecture. As a proof, he in- Q 188 THEIR ORIGIN. serfs the following passage from the history of M ales, written hy Dr. David Powel, in the year 1170: — This historian says, that Madoc, one of the sons of Prince Owen Gwynnith, being disgusted at the civil wars which broke out between liis broth- ers after tlie death of their father, fitted out several vessels, and having provided them with every thing necessary for a long voyage, went in quest of new lands to the westward of Ireland; there he disco- vei-ed very fertile countries, but destitute of inhabi- tants ; when landing a part of his people, he re- turned to Britian, where he raised new levies, and afterwards transported this to his colony. The Flemish author then returns to the Scy- thians, between whom and the Americans he draws a parallel. He observes that several na- tions of tliem to the nortli of the Caspian sea, led a wandering life ; which, as well as many other of their customs, and way of living, agrees' in many circumstances with the Indians of Ameri- ca. And though the resemblances are not abso- lutely perfect, yet the emigrants, even before they left their owii country, diflTered from each other, and went not by thesame name. > Their change of abode effected wliat remained. He further says, that a similar likeness exists between several Amer- ican nations and the Sania'ides, wlio are settled, according to the Russian accounts, on tlie great river Oby. And it is more natural, continues lie, to suppose that colonies of these nations passed over to America by crossing the Icy Sea on their sledges, tlian for the Norwegians to travel all the way Gi'otius has marked out for them. This wri* ter anakes many other remarks that are equally sensible, and wliieh appear to be just, • but he in- teimixes with these some that aie not so well founded. Emmanuel de Moraez, a Portuguese, in his history of Brazil, asserts that America has been wholly peopled by the Carthaginiaiis and Is- raelites. He brings as a proof of this assertion the discoveries the former aj»e knowia to have made THEIR ORIGIN. 189 at a great distance beyond the coast of Africa. The progress of which being- put a stop to by the senate of Carthage, those wlio happened to be then in the newly discovered countries, being cut off from all communication with tlieir country- men, and destitute of many necessaries of life, fell into a state of barbarism. As to the Israelites, this autlior thinks that nothing but circumcision is wanted in order to constitute a peifcct resem- blance between them and the Brazilians, George de Hornn, a learned Dutchman, has liiiewise writ- ten on tlie subject. He sets out with declaring, that he does not believe it possible America could have been peopled before the flood, considering the short space of time which elapsed between the crea- tion of the world and the memorable event. In the next place he lays it down as a principle, that after the deluge, men and other terrestrial animals pene- trated into that country both by sea and land ; some through accident, and some from a formed design. Tliat birds got thither by flight; which they were enabled to db by resting on the rocks a/nl islands that are scattered about the ocean. He further observes that wild beasts may have found a fi'ee passage by land ; and that if we do not meet with horses or cattle (to which he might have added elephants, camels, rhinoceroses, and beasts of many other kinds) it is because these nations that passed thither, were either not acquainted with tlieir use, or had no convenience to support tliem. Having totally excluded many nations that others have ad- mitted as the first settlers of America, for which he gives substantial reasons, he supposes tiiat it be- gan to be peopled by the north ; and maintains the primitive colonies spread themselves by the means of the isthmus of Panama, through the whole extent of the continent. He believes that the first founderi of the Indian colonies were Scythians. That^rhvi Phoenicians and Cai'thaginians afterwards got foot- ing in America across the Atlantic ocean, and the Chinese by way of the Pacific, and that other na 190 THEIR ORIGIN. tions might from time have landed there by one or other of^ these ways, or miglit possibly have been ihrown on the coast by tempests : since, through the whole extent of that continent, both in its nor- thern and southern parts, we meet with undoubted marks of a mixture of the northern nations, with those who have come from other places. And lastly, that some Jews and Christians might have been carried thereby such like events, but that this must liave happened at atime when the whole of tlie new world was already peopled. After all, he acknow- ledges that great difficulties attend the determina- tion of tlie question. These, he says, are oceasion- ' d in the first place by the imperfect knowledge we have of the extremities of the globe, toward the north and south pole ; and the next place to the ha- voc which the Spaniards, the first discoverers of the new world, made among its most ancient monu- ments ; as witness the great double road betwixt Quito and Cuzco, an undertaking so stupendous, that even the most magnificent of those executed by the Romans cannot be compared to it. He suppos- es also another migration of the Phoenicians, than those already mentioned to have taken place ; and this was during a three years' voyage made by the Tyrian fleet in the service of King Solomon. He asserts on the authority of Joseph us, that the port at which this embarkation was made, lay in the ^le- diterranean. The fleet, he adds, went in quest of elepliant's teeth and peacocks to the western coast of Africa, which is Tarshish ; then to Ophir for gold, which is Haiti, or the island of Hispaniola ; in the latter opinion he is supported by Columbus, who, when he discovered that island, thought he could trace the furnaces in which the gold was refined. To these migrations which preceded the Christian era, he adds many others of a latter date from diflerent nations, but these I have not time to enumerate, Fof the same reason I am obliged to pass over numberless writers on this subject; and shall con- tent myself with only giving the sentiments of two ^ THEIR ORIGIN. 191 or three more. The first of these is Pierre De Charlevoix, a Frenchman, who, in his journal of a voyage to Noitli America, made so lately as the year 1720, has recapitulated the opinions of a vari- ety of authors on this head, to which he has suh- joined his own conjectures ; but the latter cannot without some difficulty be extraced, as they are so inter^yoven with the passages he has quoted, that it requirt'.s much attention to discriminate tliem. He seems to aHowthat America might have received its first inhabitants, from Tartary and Hyrcania. This he confirms, by observing, that the lions and tigers which are found in the former, must have come from those countries, and whose passage serves for a proof that the two hemispheres join to the northward of Asia. He then draws a coiTobo- ration of this argument, from a story he says he has often heard related by Father Grollon, a French Jesuit, as an undoubted matter of fact. Tliis Fa- ther* after having laboured some time in the missi- ons of New France, passed over to those of China. One day as he was travelling in Tartary, he met a Huron woman whom he had formerly known in Canada. He asked her by what adventure she had been carried into a country so distant from her own. She made answer, that having been taken in war she had been conducted from nation to nation, till she had reached the place at which she then was. Monsieur Charlevoix, says further, that he had been assured another Jesuit,passing through Nantz, in his return from China, had related much such another affair of a Spanish woman from Florida. She also had been taken by certain Indians, and giv- en to those of a more distant country ; and by these again to another nation, till having thus been sm€- cessively passed from country to country, and tra- velled tlirough regions extremely cold, she at^last found herself in Tai^tary. Here she had married a Tartar, who had attended the conqueror-s in China, where she was then settled. He acknowledges as an allay to the probability of these stories, that those Q 2 i9'Z THEIR ORiGUN. who had sailed farthest to the eastward of Asia, by pursuing tlie coast of Jcsso, or Kamschatka, have pretended that they liad perceived the extremity of this continent; and from thence have concluded tha? there could not possibly he any communication by land. But lie adds that Francis Guella, a Spaniard, is said to have asserted, that this separation is no more than a strait, about one hundred miles over, and that some late voyages of the Japanese give grounds to think, that this strait is only a bay, above which there is a passage over land. He goes on to observe, that though there are few wild beasts to be met with in North Ameiica, except a kind of tigers without spots, which are found in the country of the Iroquois, yet towards the tropics there are lions and real tigers, which notwithstanding, might have come from Hyrcania and Tartary ; for as by ad- vancing gradually southward they met witli climates more agreeable to tlieir natures, they have in time abandoned the northern countries. He quotes both Solinus and Pliny, to prove that the^Scythian An- thropophagi once depopulated a great extent of country, as far as the^promontory Tabin ; and also an author of later date, Mark Pol, a Venetian, who, he says, tells us, that to the northeast of China and Tartary there are vast uninhabited countries, which might be suflftcient to confirm any conjectures con- cerning the retreat of a great number of Scythians into America. To this he adds, that we find in the ancients the Tiames of some of these nations. Pliny speaks of the Tabians, Solinus mentions the Ap uleans, who had for their neighbours the Massagetes, whom Pliny since assures us to have entirely disappeared. Amianus Marcellinus expressly tells us, that the fear of the Anthropophagi obliged several of the inhabitants of those countries to take refuge else- where. From all these authorities Monsieur Char- levoix concludes, that there is at least room to con- jecture that more than one nation in America had a Scythiajipr Tartarian original. He finishes his re- THEIR ORIGIN, 19 ; marks on the authors lie has quoted, by the follow- ing observations : It appears to me that tliis con- troversy may be leduced to the following articles ; first, how the new world might have been peopled ; and, secondly, by whom, and by what means it has been peopled. Nothing, he asserts, may be more easily answered than the first. America might have been peopled as the three other parts of the world have been. Many difficulties have been form- ed on this subject, whicli have been deemed insolva- ble, but which are far from being so. The inhabi- tants of both hemispheres are certainly the descen- dants of the same father; the common parent of mankind received an express command from Hea- ven to people the whole world, and accordingly it has been peopled. To bring this about, it was ne- cessary to overcome all ditiiculties that lay in the way, and they have been got over. Were these difficulties greater with respect to peopling the ex- tremities of Asia, Africa and Europe, or the trans- porting men into the islands which lie at a conside- rable distance from those continents, than to pass over into America ? Certainly not. Navigation^ which has arrived at so great perfection within these three or four centuries, might possibly have been more perfect in those early ages than at this day. Who can believe that Noah and his immediate de- scendants knew less of this art than we do ? that the builder and pilot of the largest ship that ever was,* a ship that was formed to traverse an unboun- ded ocean, and had so many shoals and quicksands io guard against, should be ignorant of, or should not have communicated to those of his descendants who survived him, and by whose means he was to execute the order of the (ireat Creator ? I say, who can believe he should not have communicated to them the art of sailing upon an ocean, which was not only more calm and pacific, but at the same time confined within its ancient limits ? Admitting this, how easy it is to pass, exclusive of the passage al- ready described, by landfrqm the coast of Africa to l^i THEIR ORIGIN. Brazil, from the Canaries to tlie Western Islands, and from them to the Antilles? From tlie British Isles, or the coast of France, to New-foundland the passage is neither long* nor difficult ; I might say as much of that fromChina to Japan; from Japan, or the Philipines,tothe Isles Mariannes; and from thence to Mexico. There are islands at a considerable distance from the continent of Asiav^vhere we have not been sur- prised to find inhabitants; why then should w'e wonder to meet with people in America ? Nor can it be imagined that the grandsons of Noah, when they were obliged to separate, and spread them- selves in conformity to the designs of God, over the whole earth, should find it absolutely impossible to people almost one half of it. I have been more co- pious in my extracts from this author than I inten- ded, as his reasons appear to be solid, and many of his observations just. From this encomium, how- ever, I must exclude the stories he has introduced of the Huron andFloridan women, which I think I might venture to pronounce fabulous. I shall only add, to give my readers a more comprehensive view of Monsieur Charlevoix's dissertation, the method he proposes to come at the truth of what we are in search of. The only means by which this can be done, he says, is by comparing the language of the Americans with the different nations from whence we might suppose they have peregrinated. If we compare the former with those w^ords that are considered as pri- mitives, it might possibly set us upon some happy discovery. And this way of ascending to the orgi- nal of nations, which is by far the least equivocal, is not so difficult as might be imagined. We have had, and still have, travellers and missionaries who have attained the languages that are spoken in all the provinces of the new world ; it would only be necessary to make a collection of their grammmars and vocabularies, and to collate them with the dead and living languages of the old world, that pass for originals; and the similarity might easily be traced^ THEIR ORIGIN. 195 Even the different dialects, in spite of the alterations they have undergone, still retain enough of the mo- ther tongue to furnish considerable lights. Any enquiry into the manners, customs, religion, or traditions of the Americans, in order to discover by that means their origin, he thinks would prove fallacious. A disquisition of that kind he observes, is only capable of producing a false light, more likely to dazzle, and to make us wander from a right path, iban to lead us with certainty to the point proposed. Ancient traditions are effaced from the minds of such as either have not, or for several ages have been without those helps, that are necessary to pre- serve them. And in this situation is full one half of the v/orld. New events, and a new arrangement of things, give rise to new traditions which efface the former, and are themselves effaced in turn. After one or two centuries have passed, there no longer remain any traces of the first traditions j and thus we are involved in a state of uncertainty. He concludes with the following remarks, among many others ; Unforeseen accidents, tempests, and shipwrecks, have certainly contributed to people every habitable part of the world : and ought we to wonder after this, at perceiving certain resem- blances, both of persons and manners between na- tions that are most remote from each other, when we fiml such a difference between those that border on one another ? As we are destitute of historical monuments, there is nothing, I repeat it, but a knov/- ledge of the primitive languages that is capable of throwing any light upon those clouds of impenetra- ble darkness. By this inquiry we should at least be satisfied, among that pi'odigious number of various nations inhabiting America, and differing so much in languages from each other, which are those who make use of words totally and entirely different from those of the old world, and who, consequently, must be reckoned to have passed over to America in the earliest ages, and those, who, from the analogy of their language with such as are at present used in 196 THEIR ORIGIN. the three other parts of the globe, leave room to judge that their migTatioii has been more recent, and which ought to be attributed to shipwrecks, or to some accident similar to those wliich have been spoken of in the course of this treatise. I shall only add the opinion of one author more, before I give my own sentiments on the subject, and that is of James Adair, Esq. wlio resided forty years among the Indians, and published the history of them in the year 1772. In this learned and syste- matical history of those nations, inhabiting the wes- tern parts of the most southern of the American co- lonies : this gentleman, without hesitation, pronoun- ces that the American Aborigines are descended from the Israelites, either wliilst they were a mari- time power, or soon after their general captivity.—. This descent he endeavours to prove from their reli- gious rites, their civil and martial customs, their marriages, their funeral ceremonies, their manners, language, traditions, and from a variety of other particulais. And so complete is his conviction on this head, that he fancies lie finds a perfect simili- tude in each. Through all these I have not time to follow him, and shall therefore only give a few ex- tracts to show on what foundation he builds his con- jectures, and what degree of credit he is entitled to on this point. He begins with observing, that though some have supposed the Americans to be de- scended from tlie Chinese, yet neither their religion, laws nor customs, agree in the least with those of tiie Chinese ; which sr.fliciently prove tlrat they are not of this line. Besides, as our best ships are now almost half a year in sailing for China (our author does not here recollect tliat this is from a high north- ern latitude, across the line, and tlien back agai?i greatly to the northward of it, and not directly athwart the Pacific ocean, for only one hundred and eleven degrees) or from thence to Europe, it is very unlikely they should attempt such dangerous disco- veries, with their supposed small vessels, against ra- pid currents, and in dai'k and sickly monsoons. Be THEIR ORIGIN. 197 f furtlier remarks, that this is more particularly im- probable, as there is reason to belieVe, that this na- tion was unacqnaintedwith the use of tiie loadstone to direct their course. China, he says, is about eight thousand miles distant from the Atlantic ocean. — And we are not informed by any ancient writer of their maritime skill, or so much as any inclination that way, besides small coasting voyages. The winds blo\v likewise, with little variation, from east to west within the latitudes thirty and odd, north and south ; and therefore these could not drive them on the American coast, it lying directly contrary to such a course. Neither could persons, according to this writer's account, sail to America from tlie nortli by the way of Tartary or ancient Scy thia ; that from its situation, never having been or can be a maratime power ; and it is utterly impractica- ble, he says, for any to come to Ameiica by sea from that quarter. Besides, tlie remaining traces of their religious ceremonies and civil and martial customs are quite opposite to the like vestiges of the Old Scythians, Ev^en in the moderate northern climates there is not to be seen the least trace of any ancient stately buildings, or of any thick set- tlements, as are said to remain in the less healthy I'egions of Peru and Mexico. And several of the In- dian nations assure us, that they crossed the Mis- sissippi before they made their present northern settlements ; which, connected with the former ar- guments, he concludes will sufficiently explode that weak opinion of the American Aborigines being lineally descended from the Tartars or ancient Scy- thians. Mr. Adair's reason for supposing that the Amer- icans derive their origin from the Jews, are, First, because they are divided into tribes, and have chiefs over them as the Israelties had. Secondly, because, as by a strict permanent divine precept, the Hebrew nation wei^ ordered to worship at Jerusalem, Je- hovah, the true and living God, so do the Indians, styling hiq;^ Yohewah. The ancient Heathens, he 198 THEIR ORIGIN. adds, it is well known worshipped a plurality ot Gods, but the Indians pay their religious devoirs to the great beneficent supreme Iioly Spirit of Fire, who resides, as they think, above the clouds, and on earth also with unpolluted people. They pay no adoration to images or to dead persons, neither to the celestial luminaries, to evil spirits, nor to any created being whatever. Thirdly, because, agreea- bly to tlic theocracy of divine government of Israel, the Indians think the Deity to be the immediate head of their state. Fourthly, because, as the Jews believe in the ministration of Angels, the In- dian f- also believe, that the higher regions are inha- bited by good spirits. Fifthly, because the Indian language and dialects, appear to have the very idiom and genius of the Hebrew. Their words and sentences being expressive, concise, emphatical, sonorous, and bold, and often, both in letters and signification, are synonymous with the Hebrew language. Sixthly, because they count their time after the manner of the Hebrews. Seventhly, be- cause, in conformity to, or after the Jews, they have their j)rophets, high priests, and other religi- ous orders. Eightly, because their festivals, fasts, and religious rites have a great resemblance to those of the Hebrews. Ninthly, because the Indians, be- fore they go to war, have many preparatory cere- monies of purification and fasting, like what is re- corded of the Israelites. Tenthly, because the same taste for ornaments, and the same kind are made use of by the Indians, as by the Hebrews. These and many other arguments of a similar nature, Mr. Adair brings in support of his system ; but I should ima- gine, that if the Indians are really derived from the Hebrews, among their religious ceremonies, on which he chiefly seems to build his hypothesis, the principal, that of circumcision, would never have been laid aside, and its very remembrance oblitera- ted. Thus numerous and diverse are the opinions of those who have liitherto written on this subject ! I shall not however, either endeavour to reconcile THEIR ORIGIN. ±09 them or point out the errors of each, hut to pro- ceed to give my own sentiments on the origin of the Americans ; which are founded on conclusions drawji from the ,most rational arguments of the writers I iiave mentioned, and from my own ohservations | the consistency of these I shall leave to the judg- ment of my readears. The hetter to introduce my conjectures on this head, it is necessary first to as- certain the distance between America and those parts of the habitable globe that approach nearest to it. The continent of America, as far as we can judge from all the researcJies that have been made near tlie poles, appears to be entirely seperated from the otiier quarters of tlie Avorld. That part of Europe which approaches nearest to it, is the coast of Greenland, lying in abaut seventy degrees of north latitude ; and w liich reaches within twelve degrees of the coast of Labrador, situate on the north-east borders of this continent. The coast of Guinea is the nearest part of Africa; which lies about eighteen Jiundred and sixty miles north-east from the Brazils. The most eastern coast of Asia which exten((s to the Korean Sea on the north of Cldna, projects nortli-east through 'eastern Tarta- ry and Kamschatka to Siberia, in about sixty de- grees of noi'th latitude. Towards which tJie west- ern coast of America, from Califoriiia to the Straits of Annian, extend nearly nurth-west, ajul lie in about forty -six degrees of the same iai itude. Whe- ilier the continent of America stretches any farther north tliaa t!icse straits, and joins ta the eastern parts of Asia agroeabl)' to what has been asserted by some of the writci's I have quoted, or whether the lands that have been discovered in the intermediate parts are only an archipelago of islands, verging towards tlie opposite continent, is not j et ascertain- ed. It being, however, certain tliat tjicre are man^ considerable isiaruls which lie between the extremi- ties of Asia and America, xiv, Japan, Ycso, or Jedsoj, fiama's Lavid, Bchring*s Isle, with many others discovered by Aschirikow, and besides these, R ^00 THEIR ORIGIN. from 50 degrees north there appcai'ing to be a clus- ter of islands that reach as far as Siberia, it is pro bablc from their proximity to America, that it re ceived its iirst inhabitants from them. This conclusion is the most rational I am able to draw, supposini^ that since the Aborigines got footing on this continent, no extraordinary or sud- den change in the position or surface of it has ta,k- en place, from inundations, earthquakes, or any re- volutions of the earth that we are at present unac- quainted w itii, I'o me it appears highly improba- ble, that it should have been peopled from different quai^tcrs, aci-oss the ocean, as others have asserted. From the size of the ships made use of in those ear- ly a^^3, and the w ant of the compass, it cannot be sup]wsed that any maritime nation would by choice venture over the unfathomable ocean, in search oi" distant continents. Had this, however, been at- tempted, or had America been first accidentalh" peopled from ships freighted with passengers oi both sexes, which are driven by strong easterly winds across the Atlantic, these settlers must have retained some traces of the language of the coun- try fro^m whence they migrated: and this, since the discovery of it by the Europeans, must have been made out. It also appears extraordinary, that several of these accidental migrations, as* allowed by some, and these from different parts, should have taken place. Upon the whole, after the most critical in- quiries, and the maturest deliberation, I am of opi- nion, that America received it-s inhabitants from the N. Ei by way of the Great Archipelago just men- tioned, and from there alone. But this might ha^ e been effected at different times, and from various parts : from Tartary, China, Japan, or Kamschat- ka, the inhabitants of these places resembling each other in colour, features and shape; and who, before some of them acquired a knowledge of the arts and sciences, might have likewise resembled each other in their manners, customs, religion, and language. THEIR ORIGIN. 201 The only difference between the Chinese nation and the Tartars lies in the cultivated state of the one, and the unpolished situation of others. The former have become a commercial people, and dwell in houses formed into i*e.^ular towns and cities ; the latter live chiefly in tents, and rove about in differ- ent hordes, without any fixed abode. Nor can the long and bloody wai»s these two nations have been engaged m, exterminate their hereditary similitude. 1 lie present family of the Chinese emperors is of 1 artarian extraction ; and if tliey were not sensi- ble ot some claim beside that of conquest so numer- ous a people would scarcely sit quiet under the do- nimion of strangers. It is very evident that some ot the manners and customs of the American Indi- ans resemble tJiose of the Tartars ; and I make no doubt but that in some future era, and this not a very distant one, it will be reduced to a certainty, that during some of the wars between the Tartars and the Chinese, a part of the inhabitants of the northern provinces were driven from their native country, and took reluge in some of the isles before mentioned, and from thence found their way int(> America. At different periods each natiou nr.zhl prove victorious, and the conquered by turns fly be- tore their conquerors, and from hence mi^ht arise the similitude of the Indians to all these people, and that animosity which exists between so niany of their tribes. It appears plainly to me, thatac-reat similarity between the Indians and Chinese is con- spicuous, m that particular custom of shaving or plucking off the hair, and leaving only a small tuf+ on tlie crown of the head. This mode is said co have been enjoined by the Tartarian empero->^ on their accession to the tlirone of China, am? conse- quently is a farther proof that this cust-^m was in use among the Tartars ,• to whom, a" well as the Chinese, the Americans might be indebted for it. Many words are also used by tho Chinese and Indi- ans, which have a resemblawce to each other, not only in the sound, ^but their signification. The 202 TIIEIU ORIGIN. Cliinese call a slave slumcco ; and tlie Naudowe'Ssic Indians, whose language, from their little inter- course with the Europeans, is the least corrupted, term a dog shnngush. The former denominate one species of their tea, shousongj the latter call their tohacco shossau. Many other of the words used by the Indians contain the syllables, che, chaw, and ehu, after the dialect of the Cliinese. There probably might be found a similar connex- ion between the language of the Tartars and the American Aborigines, were we as well acquainted with it as we are, fi'om a commercial intercourse, with that of the Chinese. I am confirmed in these conjectures, by the accounts of Kamschatka, pub- lished a few years ago by order of the Empress of Russia. The author cf which sa} s, that the sea wliich divides that peninsula from America is full of islands ; and that the distance between Tschukosts- koi Noss, a promontory whicli lies at the eastern extremity of that country, and the coast of Ame- rica, is not more than two degrees and a half of a great circle. He further says, that there is the greatest reason to suppose, that Asia and America once joined at this place, as the coasts of both con- tinents appear to have been broken into capes and bays, which answer each other : more esjiecially as t;ie inhabitants of this part of both resemble each other in their persons, habits, customs and food. Their language indeed he observes, does not appear to be the same, but then the inliabitants of each dis- ti-ict in Kamschatka speak a language as difierciit from eacli other, as fiom that spoken on the oppo- '^■tc coast. These observations, to whicli he adds, A^'^ similarity of the boats of the inhabitants of each coastvijnd a remark that the natives of tliis part of America are wholly strangers to wine and tobacco, wliich he b>^ks upon as a jiroof that they have as yet liad no commiftucation v it h tiie natives of Euro])e, he says, amount v^ little h ss.than a demonstj-ation^ t>?at America w?s piy|ph d fiom tliis pai-t of Asia. The limits of my present undertaking will not rHEIR OlUGliV. ciety of gent einen, who were curious in such re- searches, and to «^.om I had communicated my sen- ,™ „n "» *■!■«.?««* that I wouhl undertake a\!ur- Jl^' " u i^eceiving such supplies as were needful through the north-ea^t partJ^of Europe and Asia to ri!t f*®"*"", P*"'"** °'' America, and from EnS Jhete *«^ P™f «ded, such observations b!th on the doetine ft"' ^"'f ^"S ^^ "»«''* te'"' *» illustrate cuuosityot tlie learned or inquisitive : but as this proposal was judged rather to require a national ct«„n P'7^*%«"PP''«. it was not caVried into exe Z\n^:. am happy to find, since I formed the fore- feSe^?s.ff'°Jf '/''''* ^''^^ correspond with the nn.lf„ n 1. .""^^ S''^^^ and leariied historian. Boetor Robertson ; and though witl, I,im, 1 ac- knowledge that the investigatiln. from its nature hZ °'"^"*"*= and intricate, that the conjeetS have made can only be considered as coLet. res. and not indisputable conclusions, yet they carry with them a greater degree of probability, tha^the suppositions of those wlio assert that this continent ^r-i^P'r •*^'""'"/"<**'f '• ^«»'"ter- Oneof the Doc- tor s quotations from the Journals of Behrinff and Tschmkow, who sailed from Kamschatk" about he year 1741 Inquestof the New World, aimcars to carry great weight with it, and to afford our coi! rfe'ff ™ ""PP*""* = ^^'^^ commanders, having shaped their course towards the east, discovered land, which to them appeared to be part of the American continent ; and according to their obser! vations. It seems to be situated within afew degrees of the north-west coast of California. They had there some intercourse witl, the inhabitants, who 204 THEIR ORIGIN. seemed to them to resemble the North Americans ; as they presented to the Russians the calumet or pipe of peace ; wliich is a symbol of friendsliip universal among the people of North America and an usage of arbitrary institution pceular to them.'* One of this incomparable writer's own arguments m support of his hypothesis, is also urged with great judgment, and appears to be nearly conclusive. He 'says, " We may lay it down as a certain principle in this inquiry, that America was not peopled by any nation of the ancient continent, which had made considerable progress in civilization. The inhabi- tants of the New World were in a state of society so extremely rude, as to be unacquainted with those arts which are the first essays of human ingenuity in its advance towards improvement. Even the most cultivated nations of America were stran- gers to many of those simple inventions, whicli were almost coeval with society in other parts of the world, and were known in the earliest periods of ci- vil life. From this it is manifest that the tribes which originally migrated to America came off from nations which must have been no less barbarous than their posterity, at tlie time when they were first discovered by the Europeans. If ever the usq of iron had been known to the savages of America, or to the progenitors, if ever they had employed a plough, a loom, or a forge, the utility of these in- ventions would have preserved them, and it is im- possible that they should have been abandoned or forgotten." OBSERVATIONS Made in a voyage, commencine^ at St. Catharine's Lmding-, on the east banlc of the Mississippi, proceeding aownvvardsto the mouth of the Red lliver, and from ihence ascending: that river, as hi-h as the Hot Springs, in the proximity of the last meniioned Riv^r, extracted from the Journals of W m. Dunbar, esq. and Doctor Huaier, MR. DUNBAR, Doctor Hunter, and tlie party emploved by the United States to make a survey of, and explore the country traversed by the Washita river, left St. Catharine's landing, on the Mississip- pi, in latitude 31. 26. 30. N. and longitude G\ 5. b6, W. from the meridian of Grcenwicli, on Tuesday the 16th of October, ISO i. A little distance below St. Catharine's creek, and five leagues from Nat- chez, they passed the White Cliffs, composed chic iiy of sand, surmounted by pine, and from one htmdred to two hundred feet high. When tlie waters of the Mississippi are low, tlie base of thecliif is uncover- ed, which consists of different coloured clays, and some beds of oclire, over which there lies, in some places, a tiiin lamina of iron ore. Small springs possessing a petrifying quality How over the clay and ochre, and numerous logs and pieces of timber, converted into stone are strewed about the beacli. . Fine pure argil of various colours, chiefly white and red, is found here. On tlie 17th they arrived at the mouth of the Red river, the confluence of which with the Mississippi, agreeably to the observations of Mr. de Ferrer lies in latitude 31. 1. 15. N. and longitude 6^. 7. 11. west of Greenwich. Red river is here about five hundred yards wide, and without any sensible current. The banks of the river are clothed with willow ; the land low and subject to inundation, t6 the height of thirty feet or more above the level of the water at this time. The mouth of the Red river is account- ed to be seventy -five leagues from New-Oileans, :i»6 OBSERVATIONS, cVc. and three miles higlier up than the Chafalaya, or Opclousa river, which was probably a continuation of the Red river when its waters did not unite with those pf the Mississippi, but during the inunda- tion. On the 18th the survey of the Red river was com- menced, and on the evening of the 19th the party arrived at the mouth of the Black river, in latitude 31. 15. 48. N. and about 26 miles from the Missis- sippi. The Red river derives its name from the rich fat earth or marl, of that colour borne down by the floods ; the last of which appeared to have deposited on the Iiigh bank a stratum of upwards of half an inch in thickness. The vegetation on its banks is surprisingly luxuriant ; no doubt, owing to the deposition of marl during its annual floods. The willows grow to a good size ; but other forest trees are much smaller than those seen on the banks of the Mississippi. As you advance up the river, it gra- dually narrows ; in latitude 31. 08. N. it is about two hundred yards wide, which width is continued to the mouth of Black river, where each of them ap- pears one hundred and fifty yards across. The banks of the river are covered with pea vine, and several sorts of grass bearing seed, which , geese and ducks eat very greedily ; and there are gene- rally seen willows growing on one side, and on the other a small growth of black oak, paccawn, hicko- ry, elm, &c. The current in the Red river is so mo- derate, as scarcely to afford an impediment to its ascent. On sounding the Black river, a little above its mouth, there was found twenty feet of water, with a bottom of black sand. The water of Black river is rather clearer than the Ohio, and of a warm tem- perature, which it may receive from the water flow- . ing into it from the valley of Mississippi, particu- larly by the Catahoola. At noon on the 23d, by a ffood meridian observation, they ascertained their latitude to be 30. 36. 29 N. and were then a little below the mouths of the Catahoola, Washita, and OBSERVATIONS, Sec. 207 Bavou Ter.za, the united waters of wliicli form the Black river. The currcsit is very gentle the whole lentgh of the Black river, which n many places docs not exceed eighty yards in width. The banks on tiie lower part of the river present a great luxuHance of vegitation and rank grass, witli red and black oak, ash, paccawn, hickory, and some elms. The soil is black marl, mixed with a mo- derate portion of sand, resemllng miicli the soil on the Mississippi banks ; yet the forest trees are not lofty, like those on the margin of the^ Great river, but resembling: the growth on the Red river. In latitude 31. 22. 46 TS. they observed that canes grew on several parts of the right bank, a proof that the land is not deeply oveY^liowed ; perhaps from one to three feet: the banks have the appear- ance of stability ; very little willow or ether pro- ductions of a newly formed soil on either side. On advancing up the river, the timber becomes larger, in Svime places rising to the height of fv»rty feet ; yet the land is liable to be inundated, not fi'om tlie waters of this small river, but from the intrusion of its more powerful neighbour the Mississippi. — - The lands decline rapidly, as in all alluvial coun- tries, from the margin to tlie cypress swamps, where more or less water stagnates all the year round. On the 21st they passed a small, but elevat- ed island, said to be the only one in tliis river for more than one hundred leagues ascend ng. On the left bank, near this island, a small settlement of a couple of acres has been begini by a man and his wife. The banks are not less than forty feet above the present level of tlie water in the river, and are but rarely overflowed ; on both sides they are cloth- ed witli rich cane b ak; , pierced by creeks (it to carry boats d -ring the inundation. Tiiey saw many cormorants, and the hooping crane; geese and ducks are nit yet abundant, but are said to arrive in myriads, with the rains and winter's cold. They s;\ot a fowl of the duck kind, wiiose foot was partially divided, and tiie body co- «a« OBSERVATIONS, ^c. vered with a bluish or lead coloured plumage. On the morning of the 22d, they observed green mat- ter floating on the river, supposed to come from the Catahoola and other lakes and bayous of stagnant water, wiiich, when raised a little by rain, flow in to the Black river ; and also many patches of an aqua- tic plant resembling small islands, some floating on the surface of the river, and others adhering to, or resting on the shore and logs. On examining this plant, it was found to have a hollow jointed stem, with roots of the same form, extremely ligJit, with very narrow willow shaped leaves projecting from the joint, embracing however, the whole of the tube, and extending to the next inferior joint or knot. The extren^iy of each branch is termi- nated by a spike of vevf slender, narrow seminal leaves from one to two inches in length, and one tenth, or less in breadth, producing its seed on the under side of the leaf, in a double row almost in contact : the grains alternately placed in perfect re- gularity ; not being able to find the flower, its class and order could not be determined, although it is not probably new. Towards the upper part of the Black river, the shores aL'ounded with muscles and perri winkles. The muscles were of the kind called pearl muscles. The men dressed a quantity of them, considering them as agreeable food : but Mr. D found them tough and unpalatable. ( n arriving at the mouth of the Catahoola, they landed to procure information from a Frenchman settled ther-e. Having a grant from the Spanish government, he lias luade a small settlement, and keeps a ferry boat for carrying overmen and horses travelling to and from Natchez, and the settlements on Red river and on the Wasliita river. The coun- try here is all alluvial. In jn'oeessof time, the ri- ver shutting up ancient passages and elevating the banks over v/hich their waters pass, no longer com- municate with the same facility as foinneily ; the consequence is, that many larger tracts formerly subject to inundation are now entirely exempt from that inconvenience. Such is the situation of a OBSERVATIONS, &c. ft±± most valuable tract upon which this Frenchman is settled. His house stands on an Indian nioiBit, with several others in view. There is also a species of rampart surrounding this fplace, and one very elevated mount, a view and description of which is postponed till the return ztlieir present situation not allowing of the requisite delay. The soil is equal to the best Mississippi bottoms. From this place they proceeded to the mouth of Washita, in latitude 35. 37. 7. N. and encamped on the evening of the 23d. This river derives its appellation from the nam^' of an Indian tribe formerly resident on its banks ; the remnant of which, it is said, went into the great plains to the westward, and either compose a small tribe tliemselves, or are incorporated into anotlicr nation. Tlie Black river loses its name at the j unc- tion of Washita, Catahoola, and Tenza although our maps represent it as taking place of the Wa- shita. Tiie Tenza and Catahoola are also named from Indian tribes now extinct. The latter is a creek twelve leagues long, which is the issue of a lake of tlie same name, eight leagues in lengtli and about two leagues in bi-eadth. It lies west from the mouth of the Catahoola, and communicates with the Red river during the great annual inundation. At the west or northwest angle of the lake, a creek called Little River, enters, which preserves a chan- nel with running water at all seasons, meandering along the bed of the lake ; but in other parts its super- fices, during the dry season from July to November, and often later, is completely drained, and becomes covered with the most luxuriant herbage ,• the bed of the lake then becomes the residence of immense herds of deer, of turkeys, geese, cranes, &c. wliich feed on the grass and grain. Bayou Tenza serves only to drain off a part of the waters of tlie inun- dation from the low lands of the Mississippi, which here communicate with the Black river during the season of high water. Between the mouth of tlie Washita and Velle- Zitz OBSERVATIONS, ^c. mont's prairie on the right, the current of the" river is gentle, and the baniis favourable for towing. I'he lands on both sides have the appearance of be- ing above tlie inundation ; tlie timber generally such as high lands prodijcc, being chieliy red, white and black oaks, interspei'sed with a variety of other trees. The magnolia granditlora, that infallible sign of the land not being subject to inundation, is not, however among them. Along the banks a stra- tum of solid clay, or marl, is observable, apparent- ly of ancient deposition. It lies in oblique positions making an angle of nearly 30 degrees witli the ho- rizon, and generally inclined with the descent of tiie river, although in a few cases the position was con- trary. Timber is seen projecting from under tiie solid bank, which seems iudurated, and unquestion- ably very ancient, presentinga very ditlerent appear- ance from recently foi-medsoil. The liver is about 80 yards wide. A league above the mouth of the Washita, the Bayou ilaha comes in unexpectedly from the right, and is one of the many passages through which the watej\s of the great inundation penetrate and pervade all the low countries, annihi- lating, for a time, the currents of the lesser rivers in the neighbourhood of the Mississippi. The a c- getation is remarkably vigorous along tlie alluvial banks, which are covered with a thick shrubbery, and innumerable plants in full blossom at tliis late season. Villemont's prairie is so named in consequence of its being included within a grant under the French government to a gentleman of tliat name. Many other parts on the Washita are named after their c arly proprietors. The French people projected and began extensive settle menls on tliis river ', but the general massacre phmned, and in part executed by the Indians against them, and the consequcrst destruction of tlie Natchez tribe by the French, Iroke up all these nnderlakiiigs, and they were not r< commeiiced under that g ivernment. Th«ise pr. i- ries arc plains, or savannas, without timber ; gent- OBSERYATIOXS, kn, 215 rally very fertile, and producin- an exuberance of stron,:^, thick and coarse hcrbai-e. Wiicn a piece of ground has once g-ot into this state, in an Indian country, it can have no opportunity of rc-produc- ing ti.nber, it bcin^- an invariable practice to set iire to dry ,-rass m the fail or winter, to obtain the ad- vantage oi attackin- gaaie when tlie youno; tender grass begiii^ to spring : this destroys tlie youns: timber; and the prairie annually .e^iins upon thi wood-land. It IS probable tliat the imniense plains knf)\yn to exist m America, may owe their oriain to tuis cusfcoNi. Tne plains of the Washita lies chfef- ly on the east side, and being- generally formed like trie \Iississippi land, sloping from the bank of the river to tiie great river, they are more or less sub- ject to inundation in tlie rear ; and in certain ffreat floods the water has advanced so far as to beiT^ady to pour over the margin into the Wasliita. This has now becoine a very rare thing, and it may be estimatec tnat troni a quarter of a mile to a mile hi depth, wil remain free from inundation during IiigL floods. This IS i)retty much the case witif those lands nearly as high as the post of the Washita, with tne exception of certain ridges of primitive li^gh-land ; the res being evidently alluvial, aitho' not now subject to be inuudatcd bvthe Washita ri- ver, in consequence of the great \lepth which the bed of tae river has acquired bv abrasion. On an- ^^^u^^T'^'i^' ^^'^^^ ^^^'^^' ^^"^^ «i»Pti^ oVih^^-J-f n ' ^>''^''^ ""'' ^^ ^"^-'^t, a little be- .T'. .^r^^'/ • -f '*^ '" .^ ^'^^^^^ '^''^^ < ^'iA-li land on bota sides, which produces pine and other timber, not the growth of nundation lands. Atthe footof' tae rajmls, the navigation of the river is impeded by he beds of gravels formed in it. The first rapids ttre^f'''"r'^^ ^'- 't 5.N. a little above wS there is a high ridge oi primitive earth, studded with abundance of fragments of rocks, 0^™ which appear to have bel^n thrown up to the surface in a very irregular manner. Thestone is of afrta! ble nature, some of it having the appearance of h^ 5>li OBSERVATIONS, &c. (liiratcd clay; the outside is blackish from expo- sure to tljc air ; within it is a grayish white ; it is said that in the hill the strata are regular and that good grindstones may be liere obtained. The last of the rapids, which is formed by a ledge of rocks •rossing the entire bed of the river, was passed in t lie evening of the 27th ; above it the water became again like a mill-pond and about one hundred yards wide. The whole of these first shoals, or rapids, embraced an extent of about a mile and a half : the obstruction was not continued, but felt at short in- tervals in tliis distance. On the right, about four leagues fr'om tlie rapids, they passed the " Bayou Vux Bceufs/' a little above a rocky hill : higli lanck and sava.nnas are seen on the right. On sounding ihe river they found three fathoms water on a bot- tom of mud and sand. The banks of the river above the bayou, seem to retain very little alluvial •^oil : the highland earth, which is a sandy loam of a light gray colour, witb streaks of red sand and i lay, is seen f>n the left bank ; the soil not rich, l^earing pines, interspersed with red oak, hickory, iind dog-wood. The river is from sixty to one hun- dred yards wide here, but decreases as you advance, riie next rapid is'madeby a ledge of rocks travers- ing tlie river, and narrowing the water channel to iibout thirty yards. I'he width between the higli Winks cannot be less than one hundred yards, and the banks from tiiirty to forty feet higlu In lati- tude 3-2. 10. 13. rapids and shoals again occurred, find the channel was very narrow ; tlie sand-bars, at every point, extended so far i tito the bend as to leave little more than the breadth of the boat of ^\'^- (er sufficiently deep for her passage, iilthough it spreads over* the width of seventy or eighty yards upon the shoal. In the afternoon of the 31st, they passed a little ])lantatlon or settlement on the right, and at niglst arrived at three others adjoining ^ach oilier. These settlements are on a plain or prairie, 1 lie soil ol -vvliieh we may be assun d is alluvial from the rcgu OBSERVATIONS, &c. 215 lar slope which the land has from the river. Tlic bed of the river is now sulBciently deep to free them from the inconvenience of its inundation ; yet in the rear, the waters of the Mississippi approach, and sometimes leave dry but a narrow strip aion^* the bank of the river. * It is however, now more common, that the extent of tlie fields cultivated (from i: to I milej remains dry during tlie season of iiiundation : the soil here is very good, but not equal to the, Mississippi bottoms ; it may be esteemed se- cond rate. At a small distance to the east are ex- tensive cypress swamps, over wliich the waters of the inundation always stand to the depth of from lifi^ecn to twenty -five feet. On the west side after passing over the valley of the river, whose breadth varies fi'om a quarter of a mile to two miles, or more, the land assumes a considerable elevation, from one hundred to three hundred feet, and extends all along to the settlements of the Red river. These high lands, are reported to be poor, and bad- ly watered, being chiefly what is termed a pine bar- ren. There is here a ferry and road of communica- tion between the post of the Washita, andtlic Nat- chez, and a fork of this road passes to the settlement called the rapids, on Red river, distance from this place by computation one hundred and fifty miles. On this part of the river, lies a considerable ^ract of land granted by the Spanish goveriunent to tlie JSIarcjuis of Maison Rouge, a French emigrant, who bequeathed it with all his property to M. Bou- ligny, son of the late colonel of the Louisiana regi- ment^ and by him sold to Daniel Clarke. It is said to extend from the post of Washita with a breadth of tliQ two leagues, including the river, down to the Bayf)u Calumet ; the computed distance of which ahnjgthe river is called thirty leagues, but suppos- ed not more than twelve in a direct line. On the 6th of November, in the afternoon, the party arrived at the post of tlic AVashita, in lati- tude 32; 29. 37. 2.^. N. where they were politelv received by lieut. Bovvmar, who innnediately offer- a 6 OBSERVATIONS, &c. €i\ the hospitality of his dwelling with ail the ser- vice s in his power. From tlie ferj-y to this place, the r.aA^igation of tlic river is, at this season, interrupted by many siioals and rapids. The general width is from eiglity to a hundred yards. The water is extreme- ly agreeable to drink, and much clearer tlian that of tiic Ohio. In this respect it is very nnlike its two iieighboiirs, the Aikansa and Red rivers, \\ Ihsc waters are loaded with earthy Matters of a reddish fcrown colour, giving to tlicm a chocolate like ap- piaracce ; and, when those w aters are low, are not portable, being brackish from the great number of sait^ springs which liow into them, and probably fi om the beds of reck salt over w hich they may pass. The banks of the river jresented very little ap- pearance of alluvial land, but furnished an infini- tude of beautiful landscapes, heightened by the vi- vid colouring they derive from the autumnal chang- es of tlie leaf. Mr. Dunbar observes, that the ohange of colour in the leaves of vegetables, which is probably occasioned by the oxygen of the atmos- phere acting on the vegetable matter, deprived of the piotecting power of vital principle, may serve as an excellent guide to the naturalist who directs hi& attention to a discovery of new objects for the lise of t]ie dyer. For lie has always remarked that the leaves of these tieos whose bark or wood aic known to produce a dye, arc changed in autumn to the same colour which is extracted in the dyer's vat from the wcod ; more especially by the nse of mor- dants, as allum, A c. which yields oxygen : Ihi^thc fuiiagc of the hickory and oak, which produce the queroitron bark, is changed before its fall into a beautiful yellow ; other oaks assume a fawn colour, a liver colour, or a blood colour, and are known to yield dyes of the same complexion. lu latitude ;>2. IS. N. Doctor Hunter discovered aUmgiherivcv side a substance nearly resembling mineral coal ; its appearance was that of the car- l^onuted wood descriUed by Kirwan. It does net OBSERVATIONS, &c. 217 easily burn j but on bein,^ applied to the flame of a candle, it sensibly increased it, and yiel.ied a faint smell, resembling' in a slight degree, that of the gum lac of common sealing-wax. Soft friable stone is common, and great quantities of gravel and sand, upon the beaches in this part of the river. A reddish clay appears in the strata, much indurated and blackened by exposure to the light and air. The position called Fort Miro, being tlie property of a private person, ^vho was formerly civil com- mandant here, the lieutenant has taken povSt about four hundred yards lower ; has built himself some log houses, and inclosed them with a sligiit stock- ade. Upon viewing the country east of the river, it is evidently alluvial ; the surface has a gentle slope from the river t^ the rear of the plantations. The land is of excellent quality, being a rich black mould to the depth of afoot, under which there is a friable loam of a brownish liver colour. At the post on the Washita, they procured a boat of less draught of water than the one in which they ascended the river thus far ; at noon, on the 11th of November, they proceeded on the voyage, and in the evening encamped at the plantation of Baron Bastrop. This small settlement, on the Washita and some of the creeks falling into it, contains not more than five hundred persons, of all ages and sexes. It is Imported, however, that there is a great quantity of excellent land upon these creeks, and that the settle- ment is capable of great extension, and may be ex- pected, with an accession of population, to become very flourishing. There are tlirec merchants set- tled at the post, wlio supply, at very exorbitant pi'ic- es, the inhabitants with their necessaries ; these, with the garrison, two small planters, and a trades- man or two, constitute the p-.Tsent village. A great proportion of the inhabitants eantinue the old practice of hunting, during the winter season 5 and iliey exchanice their peltry for necessaries, with the S 2 ^18 OBSERVATIONS, 6uc. merchants, at a low rate. During the summer tliese people content themselves with raising corn barely sufficient for hread during the year. In this manner they always remain extremely poor. Some few who have conquered that habit of indolence, which is always the consequence of the Indian mode of life, and attend to agTicnlture, live more comfort- ably, and taste a little of the sweets of civilized life. I'he lands along the river, above the post, are not very inviting, being atliin poor soil, and cover- ed with pine wood. To the right, the settlements on the bayou Barthclemi and Siard, are said to be rich land. On the morning of the thirteenth, they passed an island and a strong rapid, and arrived at a little set- tlement below a chain of rocks, which crosses the chaimel between an island and the main land, called Roqne Raw. The Spaniard and his family, settled here, appear, from their indolence to live mfeerably. The river acquires here a more spacious appear- ance, being about one hundred and fifty yards wide. In the afternoon they passed the bayou Barthelemi on the right, above the last settlements, and about twelve computed leagues from the post. Here commences Baron Bastrop's great grant of land from the Spanish government, being a square of twelve leagues on each side, a little exceeding a million of French acres. The banks of the river continue about thirty feet high, of which eighteen feet from the water are a clayey loam of a pale ash colour, upon which the water has deposited twelve feet of light's sandy soil, apparently fertile and of a dark brown colour. This description of land is of small breadth, not exceeding half a mile on each side of the river, and may be called the valley of the Washita, beyond which there is h^gh land covered with pine. The soil of the " Bayou des Buttes," continues thin, witli a growth of small timber. This creek is named from a number of Indian mounts discovered OBSERVATIONS, &c. iil9 by the hunters along its course. The margin of the river begins to be covei'ed with such timber as usu- ally grows on inundated land, particuhirly a spe- cies of wliitc oak, vulgarly called the over-cup oak; its timber is lem ark ably hard, solid, ponderous, and durable ; and it produces a large acorn in great abundance, upon which the bear feeds, and which is very fiittening to hogs. In latitude 32. 50. 8. N. they passed along and narrow island. The face of the country begins to change; the banks are low and steep; the river deep and more contracted, from thirty to lilty yards in width. The soil in tlie neighbourhood of the ri- ver is a very sandy loam, and covered with such ve- getables as are found on the inundated lands of the Mississippi. The tract presents the appearance of a new soil, very different from what they paswsed be- low. This allmial tract may be supposed the site of a great lake, drained by a natural channel, from the abrasion of the waters : since which period, the annual inundations have deposited the superior soil ; eighteen or twenty feet are wanting to render it habitable for man. U appears, nevertheless, well stocked with the beasts of the forest, several of which were seen. Quantities of water fowl are beginning to make their appearance, which are not very numerous here until the cold rains and frost compel them to leave a more northern climate. Fish is not so abundar?^ as might be expected, owing, it is said, to the inundati- on of the Mississip]>i, in the year 1790, which dam- med pp the Washita, some distance above the post, andpt*oduced a stagnation and consequent corrupti- on of the waters that destroyed all the hsh witMn its influence. At noon, on tlie 15th November, they passed the island of jSlaUet^: and at ninety yavds nortli-east from the upper f>oint of the island, by a good obser- vation ascertainedl heir latitude t(; be 32. 59. 27, 5, N. or two secondhand an :ha]f of latitude south of thedividm^ line betvveenthe territories of Orleans 220 OBSERVATIONS, &c, and Louisiana. The bed of tlie river, along this alluvial country, is generally covered with water, and the navigation uninteiTupted ; hut in the after- noon of this day, they passed three contiguous sand- bars, or beaches, called " Les trois battures," and before evening the ** bayou de grand Marais," or Great Marsh creek on the right, and " La Cypreri Chattelrau," a point of high land on the other side, which reaches within half a mile of the river. As they advanced towards the Marais de Saline, on the right, a stratum of dirty white clay, under the al- luvial tract, showed them to be leaving the sunken, and approaching the high land country- The Salt Lick marsh, does not derive its name from any brackishness in the water of the lake or marsh, but from its contiguity to some of the licks, sometimes called ** saline," and sometimes " glaise," general- ly found in a clay, compact enough for potter's ware. The bayou de la Tulipe forms a communi- cation between the lake and the river. Opposite to this place, there is a point of high land forming a promontory, advancing within a mile of the river, and to whicirboats resort when the low grounds are under water. A short league above is the mouth of the grand bayou de la Saline (Salt Lick creek.) This creek is of a considerble length and navigable for small boats. The hunters ascejid it, to one hun- dred of their leagues, in pursuit of game, and all agree that none of the springs which feed this creek are salt. It has obtained its name from the many buffalo salt licks which have been discovered in its vicinity. Although most of these licks, by dig- ging, furnish water which holds marine salt in so- lution, there exists no reason for believing, that many of them would produce nitre. Notwithstand- ing, this low and alluvial tract appears in all res- pects well adapted to the growth of the long moss (tilandsia) none was observed si'fece entering it in latitude 32. 52 ; and as the pilot informed them, none would be seen in their ])rogress up the river^ it is probable that the latitude ©f thirty -three de- OBSERVATIONS &c. 221 grees is about the nortiiern limit of vegetation. i'hc long-leaf pine, frequently the growth of rich and even inini dated land, was here observed in great abundance : the short-leafed or pitch pine, on the contrary, is always found upon arid lands and generally in sand\ and lofty situations. This is the season when the poor settlers on the Washita turn out to make tlieir annual hunt. The deer is now fat and the skins in perfection ; the bear is now also in his best state, with regard to the quality of his fur, and tlie quantity of fat or oil he yields, as he has been feasting luxuriously on the autumnal fruits of the forest. It is here well known, that he does not confine himself, as some writers have supposed, to vegetable food ; he is particularly fond of hog's flesh : shetp and calves are frequently his prey; and no anin^al escapes liim which comes within his power, and wldch he is able to conquer. lie often destroys the fawn, when chance throws it in his way. He cannot, however, discover it by smelling, notwithstanding the excellence of his scent ; for nature has, as if for its protection, deni- ed the fawn the property of leaving any effluvium upon its track, a property so powerful in the old deer.^ The bear, unlike most other beasts of prey, does not kill tiie animal he has seized upon before ho eats it ; but, regardless of its struggles, cries, and lamentations, fastens upon, and if the expression is allowable, devours it alive. The hunters count much on their profits from the oil drawn from the bear's fat, which, at New-Orleans, is always of ready sale, and much esteemed for its wholesome- ness in cooking, being preferred to butter or hog's 1 ard. it is fo li r. d to kc c^) iongc r tb an a ny other ani- mal oil, without becoming rancid ; and boiling it from time to time, upon sweet bay leaves, restores its sweetness, c^* facilitates its conservation, * It may not be generally known to naturalists, that between the hoof of iho deer, ^c. thtre is found a sack, with its mouth incVmih^ upwards, containin,,^ nioi e or less musk, and which by escaping over the opening-, in proportion to the secretion, causes 222 OBSERVATIONS, Sec. In the afternoon on the 17th they passed somt' sand beaches, and over a few rajuds. They had cane brakes on both sides ol' tiie river ; the canes were small, but demonstrate that the water does not suniiount the bank more than a few feet. Tlie river bt'gins to widen as they advance ; the banks of tlie river show the high land soil, with a str turn of (h ee or four feet of alluvian depo- sited by the river upon it. This superstratum is greyish, and very sandy, with a small admix- ture of loam, indicative of tiie poverty of the mountains and uplands where the river rises. Near this they passed through a new and very narrow channel, in which all the water of the river passes, except in time of freshes, when the inter- val forms an island. A little above this pass is a small clearing, called " Cache la Turlipe'* (Tu- lip's hiding place); this is the name of a French hi;nter who here concealed his property. It conti- nues the practice of both thcAvhite and red hunters to leave their skins, &c. often suspended to poles, or laid over a pole placed upon two forked posts, in sight of the river until their return from hunt- ing. These deposits are considered as sacred, and few examples exist of their being plundered. After passing the entrance of a bay, whicji with- in must form a great lake during the inundation, great numbers of the long-leaf pine were obsei'ved ; and tlie increased size cf the canes along the ri- ver's bank, denoted a better and more elevated foil .; on tlie left v, as a high hill (three hundred feet) covered with lofty pine trees. The banks of the river present more the ap- j earaucc of upland soil, the under stratum being a pale yellowish clay, aiid the alluvial soil of a dirty white, surmounted by a thin covering of a brown vegetable earth. The tre^ improve in ap- the foot to leave a scent on the groiirid wherever it passes. Du- ring- the rutting- season, this ir.usk is so abundant (pai ticularly in old males) us to Le smeUed by ibe b-;-" "^ - ^ a considerable distance. OBSERVATIONS, &c. ii23 peaiimce, growing to a considerable size -and lu?ight, though yet inferior to those on the alluvial banks of the Mississippi. After passing the "Ba- you de Haehis,'* on the left, points of high land not subject to be overflowed, frequently touch the liver; and the valley is said to be more than a liea,!^ue in breadth on botli sides. On the left are pine hills, called '' Codo de Cljampignole." The river is not more than fifty oi^ sixty yards wide : On the morning of the 20th they passed a number of sand beaches and some rapids, but found good depth of water between them. A creek called *^ Chemin Convert," which forms a deep ravine in the highlands, liere enters the river ; almost im- mediately above this is a i*apid where the water in the river is confined. to a channel of about forty yards in width ; above it they had to quit the main « hannel, on account of the shallowness and ra- pidity of the water, and pass along a narrow chan- nel of only sixty feet wide: without a guide, a stranger might take this passage for a creek. Noth withstanding the lateness of tlie season, and the northern latitude they were in, they this day met with an alligator. The banks of the ri- ver are covered with cane, or thick nnder-bru^h, frequently s5 interwoven with thonis and briars as to be impenetrable. Birch, maple, holly, and two kindl of wood, to which names have not yet bten given, except ** water-side v/ood," are here to be met with ; as also persimmons and small black grapes. The margin of the river is fringed Vvith'a variety of plants and vines, among which urc several species of convolvulus. On the left they passed a hill asid cliff, one hun- (»red feet perpendicular, crowned with pines, and called •• Cote de Fin," (Fin's hill) from whijc^h a cliain of high Iflftd continues some distance. The cliff presents the appearance of an ash coloured clay. A little fartlier to the right is the Bayou de Acacia (Locust ci-eek.) The river variesliere from r'ighty to an Iiundred yarcls in width, presenting 22i, OBSERVATIONS, kc. frequent indications of iron aloni^ its banks and so^ne thin strata of iron ore. The ore is from half an inch to tltree incaey in thickness. On the mornin.Ji: of tiie 2M of November, they arrived at the ro.id of the Chadadoquis Indian nation leading i,v> liic xirkansa nation ; a little be- yond this 13 the »^cor a i< abri (Fabri'S cliils) from eighty to an iuindi-eil feet high ; a little distance above, a smaller cUif called **Le Petit Eror a Fabri" (the little Cliff of Fabri :) these ciifts ap- pear chiefly to be composed of asii coloured sand, v^^ich a stratum of clay at the base, such as runs all along under the banks of this river. Above these cliffs are several rapids ; the current is swii'ter and denotes their ascent into a Higher countrv : the water becomes clear and equal to any in its very agreeable taste, and as drinking w ater. In the ri- ver are immense beds of gravel and sand, over which the river passes with great velocity in the season of its floods, carrying with it vast quan- tities of drift wood, which it piles up in many places, to the height of twenty feet above the pre- sent surface, pointing out the difficulty and danger m certain times of the flood; accidents, however, ai'erare with the canoes of the countiy. As the party ascended they found f^e banks of the river less elevated, being only from nine to twelve feet, and are ])robably surmountcfd soni?' feet by the freshes. Hie river becomes more ob- structed by j^apids and sand and gravel beaches*; among which are found fragments of stone of all forms, and a variety of colours, some hiii'ldv po- lished and rounded by friction. The banks of the river in this upper country suffer greatly by abra- sion, one side and sometimes both being broken down by every flood. At a place called " Auges d' Arefen." (Arelon's troughs) is laminated iron ore, and a stratum of black sand, very tenacious, shining with minute chrystals. The breadth of the river is here about eighty yards: ixj some places, h wever.itisenlarg- OBSERVATIONS, &c. ^22S ed by islands, in others contracted to eighty or one hundred feet. Rocks of a greyish colour, and ra- ther friable, are here found in many places on the riv er. On the banks grow willows of a different form from those found below, and on the margin of the Alississippi ; the last are very brittle ; these on the contrary are extremely pliant, resembling the osier, of which they are probably a species. At noon on the 2ith, they arrived at the conflu- ence of the Lesser Missouri with the Washita ; the former is a considerable branch, perhaps the fourth of the Washita, and comes in from the left hand. The hunters often ascend the Little Missouri, but are not inclined to penetrate far up, because it reaches near the great plains or prairies upon the Red river, visited by the Lesser Osage tribes of Indians, settled on Arkansa ; these last frequently carry war into the Cadadoquis tribe settled on the Red river, about west sout!i-west from this place ; and indeed they are reported not to spare any na- tion or people. They are prevented from visiting the head waters of the Washita by tlic steep hills in \yhich they rise. These mountains are so dirficult to travel over, that the savages not having an object sulHciently desirable, never attempt to penetrate to this river ; and it is supposed to he unknown to this nation. The Cadadoquis (or Cadaux as the French pronounce the word) may be considered as Spanish Indians ; they boast, antl it is said with truth that they never have imbrued their hands in the blood of a white man. It is said tliat the strcaiu of the Little Missouri, some distancefrom its moutfi, flows over a bright splendid bed of mineral of a yellowish wliite colour, (most probably martial pyrites ;) that thirty years ago, several of tlie inliabitants, hun- ters, worked upon this mind, and sent a quantity of the ore to. the governinent at New-Orleans, and they were prohibited from woiking any more. There is a great sameness in the aj)pearance of the river bai\ks ; the islands u'c skirted with osier; and immediately witlii?!, on the bank, grows a T . S26 OBSERVATIONS, &c. range of birch trees and some willows ; the rnorc elevated banks are covered with cane, amon^^ which grows the oak, maple, elm, sycamore, ash, hickory, dog-wood, holly, iron-wood, &c. From the pilot they learned that there is a body of excellent land on the Little Missouri, particularly on the creek called the ** Bayou a terre noire," which falls into it. This land extends to Red river, and is connect- ed with the great prairies which form the huntijig grounds of the Cadaux nation, consisting of about two hundred warriois. They are warlike, but fre- quently unable to defend themselves against tlic tribe of Osages, settled on the Arkansa river, who, passing round tlie mountains at the head of the Washita, and aloiig the prairies, which separate them from the main chain on the west, where the waters of the Red and Arkansa rivers have their rise, pass into the Cadaux country and lob and plunder them. The water intlie river Washita rising, the party arc enabled to pass the numerous rapids and slioals which they meet with in the upper country ; some of which 'are difficult of ascent. The general height of the main banks of the river is from six to twelve tect above the ic^ ei of the water ; the land is better in quality, the canes, ^c. showing a more luxuriant vegetation. It is subject to inundation, and shows a brown soil mixed with salrid. Near Cache Mason (Mason's hiding place) on the right, they stopped to examine a supposed coal mine. Doctor Hunter, and the pilot, set out for this pur- p< se, and at about a mile and a lialf north west li om the boat, in the bed of a creek, tlicy four.d a substai'.ee similar to what they had before r/.etwith undci' that name, tliough more advanced towr^rds o, state of perfect coal. At the bottom of tlic freek in a place then dry, was found detached pieces of from fjfty to one hundred pounds weight : adjoiii ing to which lay wood changed into the same suh- tttance. A stratum of tins coal* six ir.ciies tlack, lav on both sides of this littic rrcck, - T^r atiothi r OBSERVATIONS, Sec. 227 of yellow clay, and covered by one foot of gravel ; on the gravel are eight inches of loam, which bear a few inches of vegetable mold. This stratum of coal is about three feet higher than the water in the creek, and appears manifestly to have been at some period, tlie surface of the ground. The gravel and loam have been deposited there since, by the wa- ters. Some pieces of this coal were very black and solid, of an homogeneous appearance, much re- sembling pit coal, but of less specific gravity. It docs not appear to be sufficiently impregnated with bitumen, but may be considered as vegetable matter in the progress of transmutation to coal. Below the " Bayou de I'eau froidc," which runs into the Washita from the right, the river is one hundred and seventy yards, flowing through tolera- ble good land. They passed a beautiful forest of pines, and on the 28th fell in witli an old Dutch hunter and his party, consisting in all of five per- sons. This man had resided forty years on the Washita, and before that period, had been up the Arkansa river, the White river, and the St. Francis ; the two last, he informs, are of difficult navigation, simi- lar to the Washita ; but the Arkansa river is of great magnitude, having a large and broad channel, and when the water is low, has great sand banks, like those in the Mississippi. So far as he has been lip it, the navigation is safe and commodious, witli- out impediments from rocks, shoals, or rapids ; its bed being ibrmed of mud and sand. The soil on it i.s of the first rate quality. The country is easy of access, being lofty open forests, unembarressed by canes or undergrowth. The water is disagreea- ble to drink, being of a red colour ajid brackish when the river is low. A multitude of creeks winch flow into the Arkansa furnish sweet water, which the voyager is obliged to carry witli him for the supply of his immediate wants. This man con- firms the accounts of silver being abundant up that river : he Iras i^ot been so high as too sec it himself, 228 OBSERVATIONS, &c. hut says, he received a silver pin from a hunter, who assured him that he himself collected the virgin sil- ver from the rock, out of which he made the eping- lete hy hammering it out. The tribe of the Osage live higher up than this position ; but the hunters ffarely go so high, being afiaid of these savages, who are at war with all the world, and desti-oy all strangers they meet with. It is reported that the Arkansa nation, with a part of the Choctaws, Chickasaws, Shawnese, &c. have formed a league, and ai'e actually gone, or going, 800 strong, against these depredators, with a view to destroy or drive ihcm entirely off, and possess themselves of their iine prairies, which are most abundant hunting grounds, being plentifully stocked with buffalo, elk, deer, bear, and every other beast of the chase ♦'onimonto tiiose latitudes in America. 1 his hun- ter having given information of a small spring in their vicinity, from which he frequently supplied himself by evifj: orating the water; doctor Hunter, with a party, accompanied him, on the morning of the 29th jSiOVcmber, to the place. They Ibund a saline, about a mile and a half north of the camp fi om whence they set out, and near a creek which enters the Washita a little above. It is situated in the bottom of the bed of a dry gully. The surround- ing land is rich and well timbered, but subject to inundation, except an Indian mount on the creek side, having a base of eighty or an hundred feet diameter, and twenty feet high. After digging [ihout three feet, through blue clay, they came to a quick sand, from whicli the water flowed in abun- dance : its taste was salt and bitter, resembling that of water in the ocean. In a second hole it required them to dig six feet before they reached the quick- sand, in doing which they threw up several broken pieces of Indian pottery. The specific gravity, compared with the river, was, from the first pit, or that three feet deep, 1.02720 ; from the second pit, or that six feet deep, 1.02104, yielding a saline mass, from the evaporation of len quarts, whi'-^t OBSERVATIONS, &c. 229 when dry, weighed eight ounces : this hrine is, therefore, about the sauic strengtti as that of the ocean on our coast, and twice the strength of the famous licks in Kentucky called Bullet's lick, and Man's lick, from which so much salt is made. Tlic **Fourche de Cadaux" (Cadadoquis fork) which they passed on the morning of the 30th, is about one hundred yards wide at its entrance into the Washita, from the left ; immediately beyond which on the same side, the land is high, probably elevated tiirec hundred feet above the water. The shoals and rapids here impede tlieir progress. At noon they deduced their latitude, by observation, to be 30. 11. 37. N. Receiving information of another salt lick, or saline, doctor Hunter landed, with a party, to view it. The pit was found in a low flat place, subject to be overflowed from the river; it was wet and muddy, the earth on the surface yellow, but on digging through about four feet of blue clay, the salt water oozed from a quicksand. Ten quarts of tills water produced, by evaporation, six ounces of saline mass, which, from taste, was principally marine salt ; to the taste, however, it showed an admixture of soda, and muriated magnesia, but the marine salt greatly preponderated. The specific gravity was about 1.076 probably weakened from ithe rain which had fallen the day before. The as- cent of the river hecomes troublesome, from the rapids and currents, particularly at the "Isledu bayou des Roehes" (Rocky Creek island) where it requ red great exertions, and was attended with some hazard to pass them. This island is three fourths of a mile in lengtli. The river presents a series of shoals, rapids, and small cataracts ; and they passed several points of high land, full of rocks and stones, much harder and more solid than any they had yet met with. The rocks were all silicious, with their fissures penetrated by sparry matter. Indications of iron were frequent, and fragments of poor ore wers common, but vieh ore of that or any othei;' metal T 2 ^^d OBSEltVATlOAS, \*j. was found. Some of the hills appear well adapted to the cultivation of the vine ; the soil being a saiidy loam, with a considerable portion of gravel, and a superficial covering of good vegetable black earth. Tiie natural productions are, several varieties of •oak, pine, dog-wood, liolly, ke, with a scattering undergrowth of whortleberry, hawthorn, china bri- er, and a variety of small vines. Above the isle deMallon, the country wears an- other ])rospect. High lands and rocks frequently approach the river. The rocks in grain, resemble freestone, and are hard enough to be used as hand mill-stones, to which purpose they are frequently applied. The quality of the lands improve, the stratum of vegetable earth being from six to twelve inches, of a dark brown colour, with an admixture of loam and sand. Below Deer Island they passed a stratum of free stone, fifty feet thick, under which is aquary of imperfect slate in perpendicular layers. About a league from the river, and a little above the slate quarry, is a considerable plain, called **Prairie de Champignole," often frequented by buffalos. Some salt licks are found near it ; and in many situations on both sides of this river, there are said to be salines whicli may hereafter be rendered very productive, and fr*)m which the future settlements may be abundantly supplied. About four miles below the ** Chuttes," (falls) they, from a good observation, found the latitude 34. •21,25, B, The land on either hand continues to mprove in quality, with a sufficient stratum of dark arth of a brownish colour. Hills frequcMtly rise .)ut of the level country, full of rocks and stones, lard and flinty, and often resemling Turkey oil atones. Of this kind was a promontory which came in from the right hand a little below the Chuttes ; at a distance it presented the appearance of ruined ttuildings and fortifications and several insulated * xnassesof rock, conveyed the idea of redoubts and out-works. This effeet was heightened by the rising of a fiock of swans which had taken their OBSERVATIONS, kc, 2'a\ station in tlic water, at the foot of these walls. As tlie voyagers approached, the birds floated about majestically on the glassy surface of the water, and in tremulous accents seemed to consult upon means of safety. The whole was a sublime picture. In the afternoon of the 3d of December, they reached the Chuttes, and found the falls to be occasioned by a chain of rocks of the same hard substance seen below, extending in tlie direction of north-east and south-west, quite across the river. The water pas- ses through a number of branches worn by the im- petuosity of tlic torrent where it forms so many cas- cades. The chain of rock or hill on the left, ap • pears to have been cut down to its present level by the abrasion of the waters. By great exertion and lightening the boat, they passed the Chuttes that evening, and encamped just above the cataracts, and within the hearing of their incessant roar. Immediately above the Chuttes, the current of the waters is slow to another ledge of hard free stone; the reach between is spacious and not less than two yards w ide, and terminated by a hiJl three hundred feet higli, covered with beautiful pines : this is a fine situation for building. In latitude 34. 25. 48. they passed a very dangerous rapid, from the num- ber of rocks which obstruct the passage of tlic wa- ter, and break it into foam. On the right of the ra- pid is a high rocky hill covered with very handsome pine woods. The strata of the rock has an incli- nation of 30 to the horizon in the direction of the river descending. This hill mav be three hundred or three hundred and fifty feet high ; a border or list of green cane skirts the margin of the river, beyond whicli generally rises a high, and sometimes a barren hill. Near another rapid tliey passed a hill on tlie left, containing a large body of blue slate. A small distance above the bayou de Saline they had to pass a rapid of one hundred and fifty vards in length, and four and a half feet fall, whicirfrom its velocity, the French have denominated " La Cas- cade." Below the cascade there are rocky hills on i32 OBSERVATIONS, kv, botli sides composed of very hard free-stone. The stone in the bed of the river, and which has been rolled from the upper country, was of the hardest flint ; or of a quality resembling the Turkey oil- stone. " Fourche au Tigre," (Tiger's creek,) which comes in from the right, a little above the cas- cade, is said to have many extensive tracts of rich level land upon it. The rocky hills here frequently approach the Washita on both sides ; rich bottoms are nevertheless, frequent, and the upland is sometimes of modern elevation and tolerably level. The stones and rocks here met with, have their fis- sures filled by sparry and crystaline matter. Wild turkey become more abundant and less dif- ficult of approach than below ; and the howl of the wolves is heard during the night. To the " Fourche au Calfat,"(Caulkei»'s creek) where the voyage terminates, they found level and good land on the right and high hills on the left hand. After passing over a very precipitous rapid, seem- ingly divided into four steps or falls, one of which was at least fifteen inches in perpendicular height, and which together could not be less than five and a half feet, they arrived at Elles' camp, a small dis- tance below the Fourche au Calfat, where they stop- ped on the 6th of December, as the pilot considered it the most convenient landing from whence to car- ry their necessary baggage to the hot springs, the distance being about three leagues. There is a creek about two leagues higher up, called " Bayou des sources chauds," (hot spring creek) upon the banks of which tlie hot springs are situated at about two leagues from its mouth. The banks of it arc hilly, and the road less eligible than from Elles* camp. , o , xi On ascending the hill, to encamp, they found the land very level and good, some plants in flower, {Tnd a great many evergreen vines 5 the forest oak with an admixture of other woods. The latitude of this place is 34. 27. 31. 5. The ground on which they encamped was about fifty feet above the water in the OBSERVATIONS, &c. 233 river, and supposed to be thirty feet higher than the inundations. Hills of considerable hei.^ht, and clothed with pine, were in view ; but the land around, and extending beyond their view, lies hand- somely for cultivation. The superstratum is of a blackish brown colour, upon a yellow basis, the whole intermixed with gravel and blue schistus, fre- quently so far decomposed as to have a strong alu- minous taste. From their camp, on the Washita, to the hot springs, a distance of about nine miles, the first six miles of the road is in a westerly directi- on without many curiosities, and the remainder northwardly, which courses are necessary to avoid some very steep hills. In this distance, they found three principal salt licks, and some inferior ones, which arc all frequented by buifalo, deer, &c. The soil around them is a white, tenacious clay, proba- bly fit for potters' ware : hence the name of ^^jlaise,' which the French hunters have bestowed upon most of the licks, frequented by this beasts of the forest, many of which exhibit no saline impregnation. T!ie first two miles from the river camp, is over le- vel land of the second rate quality ; the timber chief- ly oak, intermixed witli other trees common to the climate, and a few scattering pines. Further on, the lands, on either hand rise into gently swelling hills, covered with handsome pine woods. The road passes along a valley frequently wet by the nu- merous rills and springs of excellent water which issue from the foot of the hills. Near the hot springs the hills become more elevated, steeper of ascent and rocky. They are here called mountains, although none of them in view exceed four or five hundred feet in altitude. It is said that mountains of more than five times the elevation of these hills are to be seen in the northwest, towards the source of the Wa- shita, one of tlicm is called the glass, crystal, or shining mountain, from the vast number of hexago- nal prisms of very transparent and colourless cry- stal which are found on its surface ; they are gene- rally surmounted by pyramids at one end, rarely on 23* OBSERVATIONS, ^c. both. These crystals do not produce a double refrac- tion of the rays of light. Many searches have been made over these mountains for the precious metals, but it is believed without success. At the hot springs they found an open log cabin, and a few huts of split boards, all calculated for summer encampment, and ^\hich had been erected by persons resorting to the springs for the recovery of their health. They slightly repaired these huts, or cabins, for their accommodation during the time of their de- tention at the springs, for the purpose of examining them and the surrounding country ; and making such astronomical observations as were necessary for ascertaining tlicir geographical position. It is understood that the hot springs are included within a grant of some hundred acres, granted by the late Spanish commandant of the Washita, to some of his friends, but it is not believed that ai^egu- lar patent was ever issued for the place : and it can- not be asserted that residence, with improvement here, form a plea to claim the land upon. On their arrival they immediately tasted the wa- ters of the hot springs, that is, after a few minutes* cooling, for it was impossible to approach it with the lips when first taken up, without scalding : the taste does not differ from that of good water render- ed hot by culinary fire. On tlie 10th they visited all the hot springs. They issue on the east side of the valley, where the huts are, except one spring, which lises on the west bank of the C]'€ek, from the sides and foot of a hill. From the small quantity of calcareous n;attcr yet deposit- ed, the western spiing dees not appear to be of long standing ; a natural conduit probably passes under the bed of thecieek, and supplies it. There are four principal spiings rising immediately on the east bank of the creek, one of which may be rather said to spring out of the gravel bed of the run; a fifth, a smaller one than that above mentioned, as rising on the west side o f the creek ,• and a sixth, of UBSERVATIONS, &c. 235 the same magnitude, the most northerly, "and rising near tlie bank of the creek ; these are all the sources that merit tlie name of springs, near the huts ; but there is a considerable one below, and all along, at intervals, tlie warm water oozes out, or drops from the bank into the creek, as appears from the con- densed vapour floating along the margin of the creek wliere the drippings occur. The hill from which tlie hot springs issue is of a conical form, terminating at the top wit a few loose fragments of rock, covering a flat space twenty -five feet in diameter. Although the figure of the hill is conical it is not entirely insulated, but connected with the neighbouring hills by a very narrow ridge. The primative rock of this hill, above the base, is principally silicious, some part of it being the hardest flint, others a free-stone ex- tremely compact and solid, and of various colours. The base of the hill, and for a considerable extent is composed of a blackish blue sehistus, which di- vides into perpendicular laminae like blue slate. The water of the hot springs is, therefore, delivered from the silicious rock, generally invisible at the surface, fj*om tlie mass of calcareous matter with which it is incriisted, or rather buried, and which is perpetually precipitating from the water of the springs ; a small proportion of iron, in the form of red calx, is also deposited : the colour of which is frequently distinguishable in the lime. In ascending the hill several patches of rich black earth are found, which appeared to be form- ed by the decomposition of the calcareous matter; in other situ:itions the superficial earth is penetra- ted, or encrusted, by limestone, with fine laminaj, : i" minute fra;^n]ents of iron ore. The watei" of the hot springs must formerly hiive issued at a greater elevation in tbe hill, and run over the surface, having formed a m ^ss of calcare- ous rock one hundred feet perpendicular by its deposition. In this high situation thev found a .-in'ing whose temperature wiis 140 of Fahrenheit's 2S6 OBSERVATIONS, &c. thermometer. After passing the calcareous region ihey found the primitive hill covered by a forest of not very large trees, consisting chiefly of oak, pine, cedar, holly, hawthorn, and others common to the climate, with a great variety of vines, some said to produce black and yellow grapes, both excellent in their kinds. The soil is rocky, interspersed with gravel, sand, and fine vegetable mould. On reacli- ing the height of two hundred feet perpendicular, a considerable change in the soil was observeable ; it was stony and gravelly, with a superficial coat of black earth, but immediately under it lies a stratum of fat, tenacious, soapy, red clay, inclining to the colour of bright Spanish snuff, homeogenous with scarcely any admixture of sand, no saline, but rather a soft agreeable taste : the timber diminishes, and the rocks increase in size to the summit. The whole height is estimated at three liundred feet above the level of the valley. On examining the four principal springs, or those Vvhich yield the greatest quantity of water, or of the highest temperature. No. 1 was found to raise the mercury to 150. No. 2 to 154. No. 3 to 136, and No. 4. to lo2 degrees of Fahrenheit's thermometer ; the last is on the west side of the creek ; No. 3 is a small bason, in which there is a considerable quan- tity of green matter, having much appearance of a vegetable body, but detached from the bottom, yet connected with it by something like a stem, which rests in calcareous matter. The body of one of these pseudo-plants was from four to live inches in diameter ; the bottom a smooth film of some tenacity and the upper surface divided into ascending fibres of half or thi*ee foui^ths of an inch long, resembling tlic gills of a fish, in transverse rows. A little fur- ther on was another small muddy basin, in which the water was w arm to the finger : in it was a vermes about half an inch long, moving with a serpentine or vermicular motion. It was invariably observed, tl;nt the green matter forming on the stones and leaves covered a sti-atum of calcareous eartli, some- OBSERVATIONS, &c. 237 times a little hard, or brittle, at others soft and im- perfect. From the bottom of one of the hot springs a frequent ebullition of i^as was observed, which not having the means of collecting, they could not ascer- tain its nature : it was not inflammable, and there is little doubt of its being carbonic acid, from the quantity of lime, and the iron, held in solution by the \\'ater. They made the following rough estimate of the quantity of water delivered by the springs. There are four principal springs, two of inferior note; one rising out of tlie gravel, and a number of drip- jiings and drainings, all issuing from tlic margin, or from under the rock which overhangs tlie creek. Of tlie four first mentioned, tlirce deliver nearly equal quantities, btit No. 1, the most considerable, delivers about five times as much as one of the other tliree ; the two of inferior note may, together, be equal to one; and all the droppings, and s a.ll springs, are ]>robably under-rated at double the vjuantity of one of the three; that is, altogether, they will deliver a quantity equal to eleven times the water issuing from the one most commodiously situated for measuriMnent. This spring filled a ves- sel of eleven quarts in eleven seconds, hence the wliole quantity of hot water delivered from the springs at the* base of the hili is 165 gallons in a minute, or .>77i hogsheads in 2h hours, wiiich is equal to a handsortjc brook, and might work an over-shot mill. In cwf>l weatiier condensed vapour is seen rising out of the gravel bed of tiie cirek, from springs wiiich cannot be taken into account. During the summer and fall, the ci-eek receives lit- tle or no water but wliat is supplied by the hot springs ; at that season itself is a hot bath, too hot, indeed, near the springs ; so tliat a i)erson may choose tlie temper atui'c most agreeable to himself, by selecting a natural basin near to, or farther from the principal springs. At tliree or four miles below the springs the water is tepid and unpleasant to drink. U v^S OBSBRVATiONS, kc. From the western mountain, estimated to be of equal height with that from which the liot sprin.£?s flow, there are several fine prospects. The valley of the Washita, comprehended between the hills on either side, seemed a perfect flat, and about twelve miles wide. On all hands were seen the hills or mountains, as tliey are hei»e called, rising behind eacli other. In the direction of north, the most dis- tant were estimated to be fifty miles off*, and arc supposed to be those of the Arkansa river, or the rugged mountains which divide the waters of the Arkansa from those of the Washita, and prevent the Osage Indians from visiting the latter, of whom tliey are supposed ignorant ; otherwise their excur- sions liere would prevent this place from befng vi- sited by white persons, or other Indians. In a south-west direction, at about forty miles distance, is seen a perfectly level ridge, supposed to be the high prairies of the Red river. Notwithstanding the severity of the weather, a considerable number, and some variety of plants v/ere in flower, and others retained their verdure ; indeed the ridge was more temperate than the val- ley heiow; theie it was cold, damp and penetrating; })ere dr} , and tiie atmospliere mild. Of the plants grov/iug here was a species of cabbage : the plants gTow With expanded leaves,spreadingon the ground, of a s evincing the presence of the carbonic aciil.or fixed air sulphuric and threw down a few detac'ied parti- cles. Oxylat of ammoniac caused a deposition and white cloud, showing the presence of a small porti- on of lime. Prusiate of potash produced a slight and scarcely perceptible tinge of blue, designating the presence of a small quantity of iron. Sixteen pounds of water evaporated to dryness, 240 OBSERVATIONS, &c. left ten grains of a grey powder, wliich proved to ie lime. The myrtle wax ti'ee grows in the vicinity of the springs. At the season in which the voyagers wei*e there, the wax was no longer green, hut had changed its colour to a greyish white, from its long exposure to the weather. The berry when examined by a microscope, is less than the smallest garden pea, ap- proaching to an oval in form. The nucleus, or real seed, is the size of a radish and is covered with a number of kidney-shaped glands, of a brown colour and sweet taste; these glands secrete the w^ax which couipletely envelops them, and, at this season, gives to the whole the appearance of an imperfectly w hite berry. This is a valuable plant and merits atten- tion : its favourite portion is a dry soil, rather poor, and looking down upon the water. It is well adapt- ed to oniament the margins of canals, lakes, or ri- vulets. The cassina yapon. Is equally beautiful ; and proper for the same purpose : it grows here along the banks of this stony creek, intermingled w iththc myrtle and bears a beautiful little red ber- ry, very much resembling the red currant. I'he rock through which the hot springs either pass or trickle over, appears undermined by the w^aters of the creek. I'he hot w ater is continually depositing calcareous, and, perhaps, some silicious matter, forming new rocks, always augmenting and projecting their promontories over the running wa- ter of the creek, which prevents its formation be- low the surface. W herever this calcareous crust is seen spreading over the bank and margin of the creek, there, most certainly, the hot w ater will be found either running over the surface, or through some channel, perhaps below the new rock, or drip- ping from the edges of the overhanging precipice. The progress of nature in the formation of this new rock is curious, and worthy the attention of tlic mi- neralogist. \\hen the hot water issues from the fountain, it frequently spreads over a superficies of some extent 5 so far as it reaches on either hand. OBSERVATIONS &c. 2U there is a deposition of, orgrowth,of green matter. Several laminae of this green matter will be found lying over each other ; and immediately under, and in contact with the interior laminje, whic'i is not thicker than paper, is found a whitish sibstanec re- sembling a caagulum ; when viewed with a micro- scope, this last is also found to consist of several, sometimes a good number of laminse, of which that next the green is the finest and thincst, being the last formed ; those below increasing in thickness and tenacity until the last terminates in a soft earthy matter, wliich reposes on tlie more solid rock. Each lamin?e of the coagulum is penetrated in all its parts by calcareous grains, extremely minute, and divided in tlie more recent web, but much larger and occupying the whole of the inferior laminae. The under stratum is continually consolidating, and adding bulk and height to the roek. When this acquires such an elevation as to stop the passage of the water, it finds another course over the rock, Jiill, or margin of the creek, forming, in turn, accu- mulations of matter over the whole of tlie adjacent space. When the water lias found itself a new cha-nnel, the green matter, which sometimes ac- quires a thickness of half an inch, is speedily con- verted into a rich vegetable earth, and becomes the food of plants. The surface of the calcareous rock also decomposes and forms the I'iehest black mould intimately mixed with a considerable portion of soil; plants and trees vegetate luxuriantly upon it. On examining a piece of ground upon which the snow dissolved as it fell, and which was cover- ed with herbage, they found in some places, a caU,: careous crust on the surface; but in general a depth of from five inches to a foot of the richest black mould. The surface was sensibly warm to the touch. In the air the mercury in the Thermometer stood at 4* ; when placed four inches under the surface, and co- vered with earth, it rose rapidly to 68 ; and upon the calcareous rock, eight inches beneath the surface, it rose to 80. This result was uniform over the whole surface, which was about a quarter of an acre. U 2 24o2 OBSERVATlOxNS, kc. OiJ scarcliing they found a spring, about iititen inches under the surface, in tlie water of whicli tlu- llicrnionieter shewed a temperature of 130. Be- neath the black mould was found a brown mixture of lime and silex, very loose and divisible, appa- rently in a state of decomposition, and progrcssini^ towards tlic formation of a black mould ; under this brownisli mass it became gradually whiter and harder, to tlic depth of from six to tweh e inches, w here it was a calcareous sparkling stone. It was evident iliat the water had passed over this place, and formed a fiat superficies of solicious limestone: and that its position, nearly level, had facilitated the accumulation of earth, in proportion as the decom- position advanced. Similar spots of ground were found higher up the hill, resembling little savannas, near which hot springs were always discovered, which had once flowed over them. It appears pro- bable that the hot water of the springs, at an early period, had all issued from its grand reservoir in the hill, at a much greater elevation than at present. The calcareous crust may be traced up, in most si- tuations on the west side of the hill looking down the creek and valley, to a certain height, and per- haps one hundred feet perpendicular ; in this region Uie hill rises precipitously, and is studded with hard silicious stones; below, the descent is more gradual, and the soil a calcareous black earth. It is easy to discriminate the primitive hill from that which has jieeumulatcd, by precipitation, from the water of the springs : this last is entirely confined to the west side of the hill, and washed at its base by the wa- ters of the creek, no hot spring being visible in any other part of its circumference. By actual mea- surement along the base of the hill the influence of the springs is found to extend seventy perches, in a direction a little to the east of north : along the whole of this space the springs have deposited stony niatter, calcareous with an addition of silex or cry- stallized limo. The accumulation of calcareous matter is more considerable at the north end of the OBSERVATIONS, kv, 2UJ hill than the south ; the first may be above oiie hun- dred feet perpendicular, but sloping much more gradually than the primitive hill above, until it ap- proaches the creek, where not unfrequently it ter- minates in a precipice of from six to twenty feet. The difference between the primitive and secondary hill is so striking that a superficial observer must notice it ; the first is regularly very steep, and stud- ded with rock and stone of the hardest flint, and other silicious compounds, and a superficies of two or three inches of good mould covers a red clay ; below, on the secondary hill, which carries evident marks of recent formation, no flint, or silicious stone, is found ; the calcareous rock conceals all from view, and is, itself, frequently covered by much fine rich earth. It would seem that tliis com- pound, precipitated from the hot water, yields easi- ly to the influence of the atmosphere ;' for where the waters cease to flow over any poi'tion of the rock, it speedily decomposes ; probably more ra- pidly from the heat communicated from the interior part of the hill, as insulated masses of the rock are observed to remain without change. The cedar, the wax myrtle, and the cassina yapon, all evergreens, attach themselves particular- ly to the calcareous region, and seem to grow and thrive even in the clefts of the solid rock. A spring, enjoying a freedom of position, pro- ceeds with great regularity in depositing the matter it holds in solution ; the border or rim of its basin i'orms an elevated ridge, from whence proceeds a glacis all around, w^here the waters have flowed for some time over one part of the bi*im ; this becomes more elevated, and the water has to seek a passage where there is less resistance; thus forming in miniature, a crater resembling in shape the conical summit of a volcano. The hill being steep above the progress of petrifaction is stopped on that side, and the waters continue to flow and spread abroad, incrusting the whole face of the hill below. The iast formed calcareous border of the circular basin 2^4 OBSERVATIONS, kc. is soft, and easily divided ; at a small depth it is more compact ^ and at the deptli of six inches it is j^enerally hard white stone. If the bottom of the basin is stirred up, a quantity of red calx of iron rises, and escapes over the summit of the crater. Visitants to the hot springs, having observed shrubs and trees witli their roots in tlie hot water, have been induced to try experiments, by sticking branches of trees in the run of hot water. Some branches of the wax myrtle were found thrust into the bottom of a spring run, the w ater of wliich was 130. by Fahrenheit's thermometer ; the foliage and fruit of the brancli were not only sound and healthy, but at the surface of the water, roots were actually sprouting from it : on pulling it up, the part which had penetrated the hot mud was found decayed. The green substance discoverable at the bottom of the hot springs, and which at first sight has tlie ap- pearance of plush, on examination by the micro- scope, was found to be a vegetable production. A film of green matter spreads itself on the calcare- ous base, from which rises fibres more than half an inch in length, forming a beautiful vegetation. Be- fore the microscope it sparkled with innumerable nodules of lime, some part of which w^as beautifiu- ly crystallized. This circumstance miglit cause a doubt of its being a true vegetable ; but its great re- semblance to some of the mosses, particularly the byssi,and the discovery whichMr.D unbar made of its being the residence of animal life, confirmed his belief in its being a true moss. After a diligent search he discovered a very minute shell-fish, of the bivalve kind, inhabiting this moss ; its shape nearly that of the fresh water muscle ; the colour of the shell a greyish brown, with spots of a purplish co- lour. When the anim al is undisturbed it opens the shell, and thrusts out four legs, very transparent, and articulated like those of a quadruped ; the ex- tremities of the fore legs are very slender and sharp, but those of the hind legs some what broader, appa- rently armed with minute toes ; from the extremity OBSERVATIONS, &c. 2^0 of each shell issues three or four forked hairs, which the animal seems to possess the power of moving ,- the fore legs are probably formed for mak- ing incisions into the moss for the purpose of pro- curing access to the juices of the living plant, upon which, no doubt, it feeds : it may be provided with a proboscis, although it did not appear while the animal was under examination : the hind legs are well adapted for propelling it in its progress over the moss, or through the water. It would be desirable to ascertain the cause of that perpetual fire which keeps up the high temper- ature of so many springs asiiow from this hill, at a considerable distance from each other; upon looking around, however, sufficient data for the solution of the difficulty arc not discoverable. Nothing of a volcanic nature is to be seen in this country ; neither could they learn that any evidence in lavour of such a supposition was to be found in the mountains connected with this river. An im- mense bed of dark blue sehistus appears to form the base of the hot spring hill, and of ail those in its neighhourhood : the bottom of the creek is formed ot it ; and pieces are frequently met with rendered soft by decomposition, and possessing a strong alu- minous taste, requiring nothing but lixiviation and crystallization to complete the manufacture of al- ium. As bodies undergoing chemical changes gene- rally produce an alteration of temperature, the heat ot these springs may be owing to the disen- gagement of caloric, or the decomposition of the sehistus : another, and perhaps a more satisfactory cause may be assigned : it is well known, that with- in the circle of the waters of this river vast beds of inartial pyrist exist ; they have not yci, however, been discovered in the vicinage of the hot springs, but may, nevertheless, furm immense beds under the bases of tliese hills ; and as in oncplace at least, there is evidence of the presence of bitumen, the union of these agents will, in the progress of de- composition, by the admission of air and moisture, 246 OBSERVATIONS, &c. produce degrees of heat capable of supporting the phenomena of the hot springs. No sulphuric acid is present in this water ; the springs may be sujjpli- cd by the vapour of heated water, ascending irom caverns w here the lieat is generated, or tlie heat may be immediately applied to the bottom of an im- mense natural chaldron or rock, contained in the bowels of the hill, from which as a I'cservoir the springs may be supplied. A series of accurate observations determined the latitude of the hot springs to be 34. 31. 45. 16. N. and long. 6K 11. 25. or 92. 50. 45. W. from the meridian of Greenwich. While Mr. Dunbar was making arrangements for transporting the baggage back to the river camp, doctor Hunter, with a small party, went on an ex- cursion into the country. He left the hot springs on the morning of the 27thi and after travelbne: some- time over liiils and steep craggy mouHtains with narrow valleys between them, then up the valleys and generally by the side of a branch emptying into the tVashita, they reached the main branch of the Calfat in the evening, about twelve miles from the springs. The stones they met with during the first part of the day were siiicious, of a whitish-grey, with flints, w^hite, cream-coloured, red, &c. The beds of the rivulets, and often a considerable way up the hills, sliowed immense bodies of schistus, both blue and grey, some of it effiorescing and tasting strongly of allum. The latter part of the day they travelled over and between hills of black, hard, and compact flint in shapeless masses, with schist as before. On ascending these high grounds you distinctly perceive the commencement of the piny region, beginning at tlie height of sixty or seventy feet, and extending to the top. T!ie soil in these narrow valleys is thin and full of stones. The next day, which was stormy, they reached a branch of the bayou de saline, which stretches towards the xirkansa, and empties into the Washita many leagues below, having gone about twelve i OBSERVATIONS, &c. 247 miles. The mountains they had passed being of the primitive kind which seldom produce metals, and Iiaving hitherto seen nothing of the mineral kind, a little poor iron ore excepted, and the face of the country, as far £(S they could see, pi*esenting the same aspect ; they returned to the camp, and the hot springs, on the evening of the 13th by another route, in which they met with nothing worthy of no- tice. In consequence of the rains which had fallen, Mr. Dunbar, and those who were transporting the baggage to tlie river camp, found the road watery. The soil on the flat lands under the stratum of vege- table mould is yellowish, and consists of decompo- sed schistus, of wliicli there are immense beds in every stage of dissolution, from the hard stone re- cently uncovered and partially decomposed, to the yellow and apparently homogeneous earth. The covering earth between the hills and the river is, in most places, sufficiently thick to constitute a good soil, being from four to six inches ; and it is the opinion of the people upon the Washita, that wheat w ill grow here to great perfection. Although the higher hills, from three hundred to six hundred feet in height, arc very rocky, yet the inferior hills, and the sloping basesTbf the first, are generally co- vered with a soil of a middling quality. The na- tural productions are sufficiently luxuriant, con- sisting chiefly of biack and red oak, intermixed with a variety of otiier woods, and a considerable undergrowth. Even on tiiese rocky hills are three or four species of vines, said to produce annually an abundance of excellent grapes. A great variety of plants which grow here, spme of which in their season are said to produce flowers higldy ornamen- tal, would probaly reward the researches of the botanist. On the morning of the Sfch of January, 1805, the party left Eiles' on the river camp, where they had been detained for several' days, waiting for such a rise in the waters of the river, as would carry their 248 OBSERVATIONS, &c. boat in safety over the numerous rapids below. A rise of about six feet, which had taken place the evening before, determined them to m«ve this morn- ing ; and they passed the Chuttes about 1 o'clock. They stopped to examine the rotky promontory be- low tliese falls, and took some specimens of the stone which so much resembles the Turkey oil- stone. It appears too hard. The strata of this "^ chain were observed to run perpendicuhirly nearly east and west, crossed by the fissures at I'ight an- gles iVom five to eight feet apart ; tiie himin?e from one fourth of an inch to five inches in thickness. About a league below, they landed at M hetstone hill and took several specimens. This projecting hill is amass of greyish blue schistus of consider- able hardness, and about twenty feet pcr})endicular, not regularly so, and from a quarter to two inches in thickness, but does not split with an even sur- face. They landed again on tlie morning of tbc 9tli, in sight of the bayou de lapraire de champignole, t'> examine and take specimens of some free-stone and blue slate. The slate is a blue schistus, hard, brit- tle, and unfit for the covering of a house, none i)ro- per for that purpose liave been distovered; except on tbe Calfat, wluch Dr. Hunter met with in one of his excursions. On the eveinng of the 10th they encamped near Avclon's Troughs, having been only tliree days in descending the distance which took them thirteen tx) ascerid. They stopped some "time at tiie camp of a ^Ir. Le Fevre. He is an intelligent uian, a native of the Illinois, but now residing at the Arkansas. He came here with some Delaware and other Indi- ans, whom he had fitted out with goods, and receives their peltry, fur, &c. at a stipulated price, as it is brought in by tlie hunters. Mr Le Fevre pos- sesses considerable knowledge of tlie interior of the country ; he confirms the accounts before obtained, that the'hilis or mountains which give rise to this little river are in a manner insulated ; that is, they OBSERVAt^IONS, ^c. 249 are entirely shut in and enclosed by the immense plains or prairies which extend beyond the Red ri- ver, to the south, and beyond the Missouri, or at least some of its branches, to the north, and range along the eastern base of the great chain, or divid- ing fine, commonly known by the name of the sand- hills, which separate the waters of the Mississippi from those which fall into tlie Pacific ocean. The breadth of this great plain is not well ascertained. It is said by some to be at certain parts, or in cer- tain directions, not less than two hundred leagues 5 but it is agreed by all who have a knowledge of the western country, that the main breadth is at least two thirds of tliat distance. A branch of the Mis- souri called the river Plaite, or shallow river, is said to take its rise so far south as to derive its first wa- ters from the neighbourhood of the sources of the Red and Arkansa rivers. By the expression plains or prairies in tliis place, is not to be understood a dead flat, resembling certain savannas, whose soil is stiff and impenetiable, often under water, and bear- ing only a coarse grass resembling reeds ; very dif- ferent are tlie western prairies ; which expression signifies only a country without timber. These prairies are neither fiat nor hilly, but indulating into gentle swelling lawns and expanding in- to spacious valleys, in the centre of whicli is al- ways found a little timber growing on the banks of the brooks and rivulets of the finest waters. The whole of these prairies are represented to be composed of the richest and most fertile soil ; the most luxuriant and succulent herbage covei-s the surface of the earth, interspersed wfth millions of flowers and flowering shrubs, of the most ornamen- tal kinds. Those who have#iewed oidy a skirt of these prairies, speak of them with enthusiasm, as if it was only there nature was to be found truly perfect ; they declare that the fertility and beauty of the rising grounds, the extreme richness of the vales, the coolness and excellent quality of the wa- ter found in every valley, the salubrity of the at- iposphere, and ?.bove all, t}»e irran(Viir of fhe en- X £50 OB SERVATIOJS S, &c. chanting landscapes which this country presents, inspire tlie soul with sensations not to be felt in any otiier region of the globe. This paradise is now ve- I y thinly inhabited by a few tribes of savages, and by the immense herds of wild cattle, (bison) which people these countries. The cattle perform regular migrations, according to the seasons, from south to jiorth, and from the plains of the mountains ; and in due time, taught by theii' instincts, take a retro- gade direction. These tribes move in the rear of the herds, and pick up stragglers, and sucli as lag behind, which they kill with the bow and arrow for their subsis- tence. This country is not subjected to those very sudden deluges of rain whicli in most hot countries, and even in the Mississippi territory, tear up and sweep away with irresistible fury, the crop and soil together : and on the contrary, rain is said to be- come more rare in proportion as the great chain of mountains is approached ; and it would seem that witliin the spliere of the attraction of those elevated ridges, little or no rain falls on the adjoining plains. This relation is the more credible, as in that res- pect our new country may resemble otlier flat or comparatively low countries, similarly situated ; such as the country lying between the' Andes and the western Pacific ; tlie plains are supplied nightly witli dews so extremely abundant, as to have the ef- fect of rcfiTshing showers of rain ; and the spacious valleys, which are extremely level, may witli facili- ty, be watered by the rills and brooks which are ne ver absent from these situations. Such is the de scri])tion of the better known country lying to thr south of Red river, from Nacogdoches towards Si. Antonio, in the province of Taxus ; the ricliest crops are said to be produced there without rain ; but agriculture in that quainter is at a low ebb ; the small quantities of maize furnished by the country^ is said to be raised without cultivation. A rude opening is made in the earth, sufficient to deposit Ihe grain, at the distance of four or five feet, in ir OBSERVATIONS, V' ^^^ regulai' squares, and the rest is left to nature. The soil is tender, spongy and rich, and seems always t6 retain humidity sufficient, with the hounteous dews of heaven, to bring the crops to maturity. The Red and Arkansa rivers, whose courses are very long, pass througli jjortions of this fine coun- try. They are both navigable to an unknown dis- tance by boats of proper construction : the Arkan- sa river is, however^ understood to have greatly the. advantage with respect to the facility of navigation. Some difficult places are met with in the Red river below the Nakitosh, after wliich it is good for one hundred and fifty leagues (iH'obably computed leagues of the country, about two miles each ;) there the voyager meets with a very serious obstacle, the commenccmentofthe**raft,'* as it is called ; that is, a natural covering which conceals the whole river for an extent of seventeen leagues, continually augmenting by the drift-wood brought down by every considerable fresh. This covering, which, for a considerable time was only drift-wood^ now supports a vegetation of every thing ahounding in the neighbouring forest, not excepting trees of a considerable size ^ and the river may be frequently passed without any knowledge of its existence. It 16 said that the annual inundation is opening for it- self a new passage through the low grounds near the hills ,• but it must be long before nature, unaided will excavate a passage sufficient for tlie waters of the Red river. Aboilt fifty leagues above this natu- ral bridge, is the residence of the Cadaux or Cada- doquies nation, whose good qualities are already mentioned. The inhabitants estimate the post of Nakitosh to be half way between New-Orleans and tiie Cadaux nation. Above this point the navigati- on of the Red river is said to be embarrassed by many rapids, falls and shallows. The Arkansa ri- ver issaid to present a safe, agreeable[and uninter- rupted navigation as high as it is known. The lands on each side are of the best quality, and well watered with springs, brooks and rivulets, affording 252 0BSERVATIONS, kc Biany situations for mill scats. From dcscripiion, it would seem that aloiii^' this river there is a regu- lar gradation of hill and dale, presenting- their ex- tremities to the river ^ the hilk are gently swelling eminences, and the dales spacious vSlcys with liv- ing water meandering through them ; the forests consist of handsome trees, chiefly what is called open woods. The quality of the land is supposed superior to that on the Red river, until it ascends to the prairie country, where the land on hoth sides is prohably similar. About two liundrcd lengiiJe up the Arkansa is an interesting place called the Salt prairie ; there is a considerable fork of the livci- there, and a kind of savanna where the salt water i:' continually oozing out and spreading over the surfaee of a plain. Dur- ing the dry summer season the salt may be raked up in large heaps : a natural crust of a hand breadth in thickness is formed at this season. This place is not often frequented, on account of the danger from the Osage Indians : much less dare the white hun- ters ve))ture to ascend higher, where it is generally believed that silver is to be found. It is further said, that high up the Arkansa river, salt is found in a solid form, and may be dug out with the crow- bar. The waters of the Arkansa, like those of the Red river, arc not portable during the dry season, being both charged highly with a reddish earth or mould and extremely brackish. This inconvenience is not greatly felt upon the Ai'kansa, where springs and brooks of fresh water are frequent ; the Red river is understood not to be so highly favoured. Every account seems to prove that immense natural magazines of salt must exist in the great chain of mountains to the westward ; as all the rivers in the summer season, which flow from them are strongly impregnated with that mi- neral, and are only rendered palatable after receiv- ing the numerous streams of fresh water which join them in their course. The great western prairies, besides the herds of wUd cattle, (bison, commonhi OBSERVATIOjSS, kc. ^b:^ cailed biiffaloj) are also stocked witli vast numbers of wild goat (riot resembling the domestic goat) ex- tremely swift footed. As tlic description given of this goat is not perfect, it may from its swiftness prove to be the antelope ; or it possibly may be a* goat whicii has escaped from the Spanish settle- ments of New Mexico, A Canadian, who had beOiR much with the Indians to the westward, speaks of a wool-bearing animal larger than a sheep, the wool much mixed with hair^ which he had seen in large flocks. He pretends also to have seen a uni- corn, the single horn of which, he says, rises out of the tbrehead and curls backs, conveying th€ idea of the fossil cornuammonis. This man says he has travelled beyond the great dividing ridge so far as to have seen a large river flowing to the w^estward. The great dividing mountain is so lofty that it re- quires two days to ascend from the base to its top ; other ranges of inferior mountains lie before and behind it ; they are all rocky and sandy. Large lakes and valleys lie between the mountains. Some of the lakes are so large as to contain considerable islands ; the rivers flow from some of tliem. Great numbers of fossil bones, of very large dimensions are seen among the mountains, which the Canadian supposes to be the elephant's. He does not pretend to have seen any of the pre- cious metals, but has seen a mineral which he sup- poses might yield copper. From the top of the high mountain the view is bounded by a curve as upon the ocean, and extends over the most beautiful prai- riesr which seem to be unbounded> particularly to- wards the east. The finest of the lands he has seett are on the Missouri ; no other can compare in rich- ness and fertility with them. This Canadian, as well as Le Fevre, speaks of the Osages, of the tribe of Whitehairs, as lawless and unprincipled ; and the other Indian tribes hold them in abhorrence as a barbarous and uncivilized race, and the difterent nations who hunt in their neighbourhood, have been concerting plans for tlieir destruction. On the X 2 25i OBSERVATIONS, kc. morning of the llth^ the party p.assed the petit ecov a Fabri. The osier, which gi'ovvs on the beaches above, is not seen below upon the river ; and here they began to meet with tlie small tree called 'char- nier' which' grows only oh the water side, and is met wi h all the way down the Washita. The lati- tude of 33. 40. seems the northern boundary of the one, and the southern boundary oftheother of thest' vegetables. Having noticed the limit set to the long moss, (Telandsia) on the ascent of the river, in lati- tude 33. Mr. Dunbar made inquiry of Mr. LeFc- vre, as to its existence on the Arkansa settlement, which is known to lie in about the same parallel ; he rsaid, that its growth is limited about ten miles south of the settlement, and that as remarkably, as if a line had been drawn east and west for the purpose; as it ceases all at once, and not by degrees. Hence it appears, that nature has marked with a distin- guishing feature, the line established by congress, between the Orleans and Louisiana territories. The cypress is not found on the Washita higher than thirty-four degrees of north latitude. In ascending the river, they foumi their rate of going to exceed that of the current about six miles and an half in twenty-four hours ; and that on the 12th, they had passed the apex of the tide or wave, occasioned by the fresh, and were descending along an inclined plain ; as they encamped at night, they found themselves in deeper water the next mornings, and on a more elevated part of the nclined plain than they had been in the preceding evening, from the progress of the apex of the tide during their re- pose. At noon, on the 16th, they reached the post of the Washita. • Mr. Dunbar being anxious to reach the Natchez as early as possible, and being unable to procure horses at the post, took a canoe with one soldier and his own domestic, to push down' to the Cata- hoola; from whence to Concord there is a road of thirty miles across the low grounds. He SBt off OBSERVATIONS, ^c. 2d . early on the morning of the 20th, and at nie;]ji reached the settlement of an old hunter, with whom he had conversed on liis way uj) the rivo'. This man informed him, that at the place called the mine, on tl>e Little Missouri, tliere is a smoke which as-' cends pei-petually from a particular place, and that the vapour is sometimes insupportahle. The river, or a hranch of it, passes over a hed of mineral, whicli from tJie descriptions given, is, no douht, martial pyrites. In a creek,' or a hranch of the Pourche a Luke, there is to he found on the beaches and in tlie cliffs, a great number of e^lobular bodies, some as large, or larger than a man's head, wliich, when broken, exhibit the appearance of gold, sil- ver, and precious stones ; most probably pyrites and crystallized spar. And at the Fourches des ixlaises a Paul, (higher up the river than Fourchc a Luke,) near the river there is a cliff full of hexa- gonal prisms, terminated by pyramids which ap- pear to grow out of the rock: they are from six to eight inches in length, and some of them are an inch in diameter. There are beds of pyrites found in several small creeks communicating with the Washita, but It appears that tliemineral'indications are greatest on the Little Missouri : because, as betore noted, some of the hunters actually worked oil them, and sent a parcel of the ore to New Orleans. It is the belief here, that the mineral contains precious metal, but tliat the Spanish government did not choose a mine should be open- ed s;o near to the British settlements. An express prohibmon was issued against working these At this place, Mr. Dunbar obtained one or two slips of the "boisde are," (bow wood or vellow wood,) from the^Missouri. The fruit of which had fallen before^ the maturity, lay upon the ground, fe-me were the size of a small orange, with a rind Pi 1 J:; >^'-f:«; the colour, though it appeared fad^d, still retained a resemblance to pale gold. Ihe tree m its native soil, when laden with its i> 56 OBSERVATIONS, &c. golden fruit, (nearly as large as the egg ot ah ostrich,) presents the most splendid appearance j its foliage is of a deep green, resembling the var- ^nished leaf of the orange tree ; upon t!ie whole, no forest tree can compare with it in ornamental grandeur. The hark of the young trees resemble, in texture, the dog- wood bark; the appearance pf the wood recommends it for trial as an article which may yield a yellow dye. It is deciduous ; the branches are numerous, and full of short thorns or prickles, whicli seem to point it out as proper for hedges or live fences. This tree is known to exist near the Nakitosh (perhaps in latitude 32r,) and upon the river Arkansa, high up (perhaps in lat. 36 ;) it is therefore probable that it may thrive- fi'om latitude 38 to 40 and will be a great acquisi- tion to the United States if it possesses no other merit than that of being ornamental. In ascending the river, both Mr. Dunbar and Dr. Hunter searched for the place said to yield gypsum, or plaister of paris, but failed. The for- mer gentleman states, that he has no doubt of its existence, having noted two places where it has been found ; one of which is the first hill, or high land, which touches the river on the west, above the bayou Calumet, and the other is the second highland on the same side. As these are two points of the same continual ridge, it is probable that an immense body of gypsum will be found in the bow- els oftlie hills wliere they meet, and perhaps ex- tending far beyond them. On the evening of the 22d Mr. Dunbar arrived at the Catahoola, where a Frenchman of the name ofHebrard, who keeps the ferry across Black river, is settled. Here the road from the Washita forks, one branch of it leading to the settlement on Red river, and the other up to the post on the Washita. The proprietor of this place has been a hunter, a great traveller up the Washita and into the western country : he confirms generally the accounts receiv- ed from others. It appears, from what the^ say. OBSERVATIONS, &c. ^^^ that in the neighbourhood of the hot springs, hut higher up, among the mountains, and upon the Lit- tle Missouri, during the summer season, explosions are very frequently heard, proceeding from under the ground and not rarely a curious phenomenon is seen, which is termed the blowing of the mountain : it is confined elastic gas forcing a passage through the side or top of a hill, driving before it a great quantity of earth and mineral matter. During the winter spason the explosions and blowing of the mountains entirely cease, from whence we may conclude, that the cause is comparatively superfici- al, brought into action by the increased heat of the rays of the summer sun. The confluence of tlie Washita, Catahoola and Tenza is an interesting place. The last of these communicates with the Mississippi low lands, by the intervention of other creeks and lakes, and by one in particular, called " Bayou d' Argent," which empties into the Mississippi, about fourteen miles above Natchez. During high water there is a na- vigation for batteaux of any burthen along the ba- you. A large lake, called St. John's lake, occu- jpies a considerable part of the passage between the Mississippi *and the Tenza; it is in a horse shoe form, and has, at some former period, been the bed of the Mississippi : the nearest part of it is about one mile removed from the river at the present time. This lake, possessing elevated banks, similar to those of the river, has been lately occupied and im- proved. The Catahoola bayou is the third naviga- ble stream : during the time of tlie inundation there is an excellent communication by the lake of that name, and from thence, by large creeks to the Red river. The country around the point of union of these three rives is altogether alluvial, but the place of Mr. Hebrard's residence is no longer subject to inundation. There is no doubt, that as the country augments in population and riches, this place will become the site of a commercial inland town, which will keep pace with the progress and prosperity of 2BS OBSERVATIONS, *c . the conntry. One of the Indian mounts here is of a considerable elevation, with a species of rampart, surrounding; a lari^e space, which was^ no doubt, the position of a fortified town. While here Mr. Dunbar met with an American who pi*etendcd to have been up the Arkansa river three hundi-ed leagues. The navigation of this ri- ver he says is good to that distance, for boats draw- ing three or four feet water. Implicit faitli, perhaps, ought not to be given to his relation, respecting the quantity of silver he pretends to have collected there. He says he has found silver on the Washita, thirty leagues above the hot springs, so rich, that three pounds of it yielded one pound of silver, and this was found in a cave. He asserts also, that the ore of the mine upon the Little Missouri, was carri- ed to Kentucky, by a person of the name of Bon, where it was found to yield largely in silver. This man says he has been up the Red river likewise, and that there is a great rapid just below the raft, or natural bridge, and several others above it ; that the Caddo nation is about fifty leagues above the raft, and near to their village commences the coun- try of tlie great prairies, which extend four or five hundred miles to the west of the sand mountains, as they are termed. These great plains reach far be- yond tlie Red river to the south and northward over the Arkansa river, and among the numerous branch- es of tlie Missouri. He confirms the account of the beauty and fertility of the westei*n country. On the morning of the 25th Mr. Dunbar set out on horseback, from the Catahoola to Natchez. The rain which had fallen on the preceding days render- ed tlic roads wet and muddy, and it was two in the afternoon before he reached the Bayou Crocodile, which is considered half way between the Black ri- ver and the Mississippi. It is one of the numerous creeks in the low grounds which assist in venting the waters of the inundation. On the margins of tlie water courses, the lands are highest and pro- duce canes ; they fail off, in the rear, into cypress COMMON NAMES, kc. 269 swamps and lakes. The waters of the Mississippi were rising, and it was with some difficulty that they readied a house near Concord that evening. This settlement was begun since the cession of Louisiana to the United States, by citizens of the Mississippi territory, who have established their re- sidence altogether upon newly acquired lands, tak- en up under the authority of the Spanish command- ant, and have gone to the expense of improvement either in the names of themselves or others, before the 20th of December, 1803, hoping thereby to hold their new possession under the sanction of the law. Exclusive of the few actual residents on the banks of the Mississippi, there are two very hand- some lakes in the interior, on the banks of which similar settlements have been made. He crossed at the ferry and at mid-day of the 36th reached his own house. Dr. Hunter, and the remainder of the party, fol- lowed Mr. Dunbar, down the Washita, with the boat in which they ascended the river, ascended the Mis- sissippi, and reached St. Catharine's landing on the morning of the 31st of January, 1805. Common names of some of the trees, shrubs and plants growing in tlie vicinity of the Washita, THREE kinds of white oak, four kinds of red oak, black oak, three kinds of hickorv,one of which has an oblong nut, white and good, chinkapin, three kinds of ash, one of which is the prickly, three kinds of elm, two kinds of maple, two kinds of pine, red cedar, sweet gum, black gum, linden, two kinds of iron-w ood, growing on high and low lands, sycamore, box elder, holly, sweet bay, laurel, magnolia accuminata, black walnut, filbert, buck- eye, dogwood, three kinds of locust, the three-thorn- n.Una honey locust, hazel, bciich, wild plumb, the 260 COMMON NAMES, &c. fruit red, but not good, bois d'are (bow-wood) called also bois jaune (yellow- wood) a famous yellow dye, three kinds of hawthorn, with berries, red, scarlet, and black, lote trec,^for Indian arrows, bois de car- bane, a small growth, and proper for hoops, two kinds of osier, myrtle, tooth-ach tree and magno- lia. A Vine, bearing large good black grapes in bunch- es, black grape, hill grape, yellow grape, musca- dine, or fox grape, and a variety of other vines. The saw brier, single rose brier, and china root brier, wild gooseberry, with a dark red fruit, three kinds of whortleberry, wild pomagranate, passion flower, two sorts of sumach, winter's berry, win- ter's green, a small red farinaceous berry like a haw, on a plant one inch high which grows under the snow, and is eaten by the Indians, the silk plant, wildendive, wild olive, pink root, snake root, wild mint of three kinds, coloquintida (bitter apple) growing along the river side, clover, sheep's clo- ver, life everlasting, wild liquorice, marygold, mis- leto, thistle, wild hemp, bull rush, dittany, white and red poppy, yellow jessamine, poke, fern, capil- liar, honeysuckle, mosses, petu,to make ropes with, wormwood, hops, ipecacuanha, persicaria, Indian turnip, wild carrot, wild onion, ginger, wild cab- bage and bastard indigo. ANECDOTES. General Washington, wliile President of the United States sent an agent to t}ie Chypewyan Tribe, whose friendship it was requisite we sliould cultivate, to preserve the lucrative fur trade that we held with them. Washinj^ton, by his agent of- fered, that ** the United States would take two or three of the soiis of their chiefs and educate them in our Universities." When the agent had ex- ecuted the command, the Indians, who never gave an immediate answer on things that they think of importance, told him, " that they would think of it," and after a short time returned for answer, ** tliat they had consulted on the subject; and tliat they were of an opinion, that it would render tliem too effeminate to be educated in our colleges, as it would totally disqualify them to hunt or pursue the war, but in return for the civility of their brother Chief, Washington, that if he would send the sons of any of his chiefs among them, they would edu- cate them to pursue tlie chase for several days without eating, and to go without clothes in ex- treme cold weather, and in frosty nights to lie on the ground without covering, and every other thing requisite, to make them Indians, and men." About sixty years ago, the French missionaries and traders, having received many insults from the Sawkees, a party under the command of Capt. Morand, marched to revenge their wrongs. Tho Captain and his party set out from Green Bay, in the winter, when they were unsuspicious of a visit of this kind ; and pursuing his route over the snow- to their village, which lay about 60 miles up Fox river, came upon them by surprise. Unpi*e- pared as they were, he found them an easy con- quest, and consequently killed or took prisoners the greatest part of them. On the return of the French to Green Bay, one ofthcludiau chiefs iit Y ^62 ANECDOTES. ^'^/' alliance with them, who had a considerable band of prisoners, under his care, stopped to drink at a brook ; in the mean time his companions went on, which being observed by one of the women, whom they had made captive, she suddenly seized him with both her hands, whilst he st joped to drink, by an exquisitely susceptible part, and held him fast till he expired on the spot. As the chief, from the ex- treme torture he suffered, was unable to,eall out to his friends, or to give any alarm, the-y passed on without knowing what had happened; and the woman having cut the bands of her fellow-prisoners, who were in the rear, with them made her escape. This heroine w as ever after treated by her nation as their deliverer, and made a chieftess in her own right, with the liberty to entail the same honour on liei' descendants ; an unusual distinction, and con- ferred only on extraordinary occasions. liev. J' Hubbard's compilation of Indian History. The Sioux Indians, and many other tribes, train up their children with the greatest rigour to render them almost invulnerable to the inclemency of the winter, and tue misfortunes that unavoidably be- fftl their m-ode of life : The children of the Sioux • tribe, when taken fi*om the breast of their mother, are compelled to lie on the floor like whelps, on gkins, and with very little covering. When grown older they bear incisions made on their bodies to try their fortitude, and to make tliem bear extreme torture as tho' they were inaccessible to pain.- These scars are thought with tliem ornamental, and those who bear the torture of them until their bodies are covered with a gore of blood, and with apparent pleasure, are much caressed by the spec- tators, wiio assemble to witness their heroism, and arc considered as initiated into the list of warriors. Parties of these young w arriors, are after tried in feats of daring bravery, and him who excels is considered as their chief warrior. The extrorae eold that they bear without a murmur is incredible to an European.