,* p ** ^ V *°* ^ tf°o ** V fe vi 1 ^"^ 0* * o ~* -*r^- % _«> ** ** ♦> *• .X-^v* V % V* V^\^ %• ... ^% >°^i > v .-J^ % \ 'o. -*7V» # V> 'o. **?;•• vv a <, -?/?• .0* v •'Sri* a <. -?.?• .g* -o/ .4 »°v 3 - ^ ^ * :\ 'a>V )♦ .-i- ^'•l*-^/% c4* V, y -% ./y ^ v *: ^ -J THE ATTAINMENT OF Womanly Beauty OF FORM AND FEATURES The Cultivation of Personal Beauty BASED ON Hygiene and Health Culture BY Twenty Physicians and Specialists Edited by ALBERT TURNER The Publisher of Health Culture Fourth Edition revised and enlarged NEW YORK THE HEAIvTH-CUI/TURE COMPANY 151 West 23D Street 1904 LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Copies Kiceived JAN 10 1905 Copyrujni uiiry SUSS <*" XXc Noi / o */ 3 S'7 COPY B. B _ ■ ~-r^— COPYRIGHT, igoo, BY ALBERT TURNER. COPYRIGHT, 1904, BY ALBERT TURNER. PREFACE. There is in every well organized human being a desire to look well, to make a good impression, and this is and must be very largely based upon personal appearance. "Am I attractive?" is the almost uni- versal question in the maiden's bosom. A com- manding presence is the young man's ambition. , Beauty or strength presented in a physique free from excess or deficiency of proportion may well stand among the highest ambitions of any man or woman. No more pleasing or complimentary salutation is ever given or received than, "How well you are looking," but physical beauty often means more than mere personal gratification; it often means success in life's work. Beauty will often win its way while even greater merit in an unattractive presentation will be forced to- take a second place in the race. It is almost always true with women that an at- tractive personality is the most important element of success or failure in life. The young woman with a healthy, well poised, attractive figure, well kept features, good complexion and a hopeful view of life, which becomes a part of these conditions, is insured success in the social or business world as against the failure of the one who has lost her buoy- i PREFACE. ancy of spirit, with a drooping expression of count- enance, a prematurely aged and wrinkled face, sal- low and muddy complexion, poor, scant hair and a weak and wavering walk, from a lack of healthy activity. It is of great moment with many, particularlv so with women, who, by effort of head or hand, have to make their own way in the world for the main- tenance of themselves and others that all appear- ance of age shall be deferred as much as possible, especially in these times when in all walks of life, both for men and women, the services of the young are in demand as against age and experience. Often the matter of age is more in appearance than in fact, and it is true that "we are only as old as we look," therefore let us in every way defer the ap- pearance of age as much as possible. Recognizing the great importance of presenting and preserving a good personal appearance this manual has been prepared by securing contribu- tions for it from acknowledged experts on the pres- ervation Of health and cultivation of beauty of form and features, keeping in mind at all times the fact that health and beauty go hand in hand, and that true and lasting beauty must be based upon health of body and of mind, and that the highest type of beauty is an indication of perfect physical and men- tal organization, and these outward manifestations must be governed by a soul that is filled with a spirit of love and of kindness. The Editor. CONTENTS. PREFACE 7 INTRODUCTION. By Ella Van Poole. The Power of Beauty —Beauty Denned— All Capable of Improvement— What Is Necessary 9 WOMANLY BEAUTY, ITS ELEMENTS AND REQUIRE- MENTS. By Dr. D. H. Jacques. The Proper Propor- tions of the Human Figure— The Face and the Features —The Hair— The Neck and Shoulders— The Arms and Hands— The Limbs and Feet— The Skin— Beauty the Sign of Health 13 BEAUTY OF WOMANKIND : WHY IT LASTS AND WHY IT FADES. By Dr. C. H. Stratz. of Holland. To Be Found in the Living Form, Not in Art— The Unit of Measurements With Diagram— Study of Special Features —Neck and Shoulders— Pre-Natal Influences— The Beauty Curve— Importance of Nourishment— Of Exercise— Prop- er Age for Marriage— Good and Bad Features, with Tahles of Classification 17 TEMPERAMENTAL TYTES. By Sarah C. Tu nee. Physi- cal Conditions, Affecting Form— J he Motive Tempera- ment Described, With Its Peculiarities— The Vital Tem- perament the Best for Women, How Produced— The Mental Temperament, Nervous and Sensitive, How to Control and '-ovrn It Extremes Should be Modified, and How to Do It 27 BUEATHHNTG AND BEAUTY. By W. R. C. Latson, M. D. Its Importance— Three Methods of Breathing— The Clav- icular— The Lateral— The Abdominal— A Correct Car- riage of the Body— Exercises for Carriage and Proper Breathing— Breathing Exercises for Health and I eauty, 35 CURATIVE BREATHING. By Madame Donna Madixxa. A Personal Experience in Remedial Breathing— What Was Done— A Lesson for Frail Women 47 SLEEP: ITS EFFECTS ON BEAUTY. By Ella Van Poole. Its Importance— Its Benefits— Resuls of Insufficient Sleep, How Indicated— How to Sleep, Preparations, Ne- cessary Conditions— Relaxation of Body and Mind, Di- rections—Rules to Follow- For Sufferers from Insom- vi CONTENTS. t&^w 1 ?^ 8 's Foot in Fashionable Shoe —Foot Massage 233 CONTENTS. vil EXERCISING FOR GRACE AND POISE. Necessary for Beauty, Whatls Needed— How to Acquire It— Right Kind of Exercise— The Importance of Apparatus. Iiiustrated. HI MECHANICAL AIDS TO NORMAL BREATHING. By W.R. C. Latson, M. D. The Importance of Breathing— Its Place in Some Religious Systems— The Effects of Deep Breathing— What Is Normal Breathing— The Difficulties Usually Found- Tne Advantages of a Breathing Tube- Exercises, with Illustrations 145 HOW TO HAVE A GOOD COMPLEXION, By Susanna W. Dodds. M. D. A Good Complexion a Rarity— .^ome of the Causes for a Bad Complexion— What to Do to Over- come It— The Functions of the Skin— The Importance of Right Living— The Bathing and Care of the Face— Causes for Wrinkles 157 BICYCLING AND BEAUTY. By Mary Sargent Hopkins. Wheeling as an Aid to Good Health— Proper Position is of Great Importance— One Should be Cautious in Riding Too Far an t Too Fast, Also in Climbing Hills —Suitable Dress— The Deleterious Effects of Wrong Riding, and the Many Advantages Derived From the Sensible Use of the Wheel— It Helps Digestion, Quickens the Circulation and Diverts the Mind, Thereby Giving Nature a Chance in Transforming the Sallow, Listless Woman, Into a Wholesome, Bright-Eyed Being, Beauti- ful With the Glow of Health 163 EXERCISE-WHO NEEDS IT. THE BENEFITS— HOW TO TAKE IT. By Edward Warman. The Housewife— The Business Woman— The Clerk— .The Bicyclist— The Teacher, etc. THE BENEFITS— Obesity— Too Thin— The Liver— The Heart— The Lungs The Kidneys— Circula- tion— Dyspepsia— Constipation— Physical Beauty— How Not to Exercise— When to Exercise— How Much 171 REDUCTION OF FLESH Fat-Producing Foods- Exercise- Massage Roller Treatment; How to Apply It^Six Inches Reduction in Three Months 183 THE UGLY DUCKLING: A STORY. By Elsie Caemichael. Physical Enthusiasm— A Despairing Mother— A Sister's Interest— Mr. Monteith— A Winter From Home— The Change— A Surprise— The Mother's Pleasure— What Was Done 181 PERFUMES AND HEALTH. Bv Felix L. Oswald, M. D. "Whatever Is Pleasant Is Wrong" Is Not True— "Per- fumery and Prayer" an Enjoinment of Mohammed— Na- poleon the First Used Eau de Cologne to Prevent Con- tagion—Per umes as a Protection Against Disease Germs —Glue Factories and Stock Yards— Bad Odors a Danger Signal— Unperverted Nerves a Safe Criterion— Patients Sent to Pine Woods and Flower Plantations— Sweet Herbs as an Incense Powder. ,,....,.,. ,, FI , , 201 vm CONTENTS SOME SECRETS ABOUT A BEAUTIFTTT Mrnir t> t. VOICE AN ELEMENT OF BEAUTY Bv'ww'r'r '„"' 2 °° Voices-Faults of Vo"a-Th^rrn,f Xpr ^ m_The American ToneProduct\a-BreathTn| CaUSC and Cure -Mechanism of THE PROBLEM OF PHYSIC AT RW A TTTv " "i" "a" »" ' ', 215 Higher Nature ShWtacSlt?^^? *"? S ' ste — Our THE CARE OF THE NFCK T?Tr c^ o 231 lows-Exercises Illustrated the Fillingr in of Hol- WHAT MRS. LANGTRY SAYS AND DOFSrVtt'.' »"' BARD AVER-The SffrrtnfHrir • ,7 HaRR.F.T Hi Believes In-VVhat ^e^-DeSfK rfaVa^' w „ riT ^ rCiSe - CaMO,mH «'^SS y a Days Work. HEAL ^ JSMKSZ ^VnSrei^^ PATTI RETAINS HER BEAUTY. ByMrsLM^.^V lUB- She INTRODUCTION. By ELI.A Van Poole. The word "beauty" is an elastic word. It is ap- plied to' a rainbow, a blossoming orchard, the mid- night sky, a rain-drenched rose, or a woman's eye- lash. When earnest women, sincere in their theories and practice, enter upon the work of con- vincing women that it is wise and just and neces- sary to cultivate personal beauty, they are often confronted by the statement that it is a futile task in the case with most women, for there are so few "born beauties." In other words, there are so few women who have the foundation upon which to work to produce beautiful results. Granted. But that is no reason why all women should not make the very best of what Nature has allowed them; and the woman who has an inheri- tance in the shape of a nose which belonged to her grandfather, and which in no generation has been considered any ornament to the face of its pos- sessor, will not show good judgment by neglecting .to cultivate other graces of appearance because she cannot be a "perfect" beauty. Regular features iO WOMANLY BEAUTY. are the exception, and not the rule; therefore the number who can never hope to be very beautiful, as generally understood, are in the majority. That all women are not capable of extreme phys- ical beauty is true, but that any woman may culti- vate the best possible in her appearance and profit by it is no less true. Any woman can cultivate good complexion; any woman can have good hair; almost any woman can have good health, and that means bright eyes, skin that presents a glow, that proves the beauty of skin to be more than "skin deep," and a wholesome in- vigorating magnetism. Beauty, as applied to women, is as vague in meaning as applied to things in general. It is as varied in distinctive quality as there are women who possess it. It is a compound of essences of the mental, moral and physical. It is felt, rather than beheld, and consists of almost any- thing more than mechanical outline. It is refresh- ing, alluring, delightful, puzzling, attracting and captivating. If we advance no other argument for its wisdom of cultivation we will ask the read- ers to look among their women friends and men- tally compare the popularity of the well-preserved women with those that have not cared for their looks. Follow in the lead of a woman who gives painstaking care to her skin, her hair, her teeth, her breath, her gentle expression of countenance, her becoming dress — and you may be surprised to learn how much influence for the goo-d and happiness of others this woman is to be credited with. I do not INTRODUCTION. 11 advise that this care of the personal appearance should rule our lives. It need not. The woman who presents the very sweetest personality that I know, works for her living, and is a power in her city in charitable work. It does not take much time to thus care for the appearance. The first step to take is to gain health, for the beauty that subsists on anything else is short-lived and full of trouble; and that foundation is not furnished by having prescriptions filled and taking them. Na- ture has provided all that we need to get well, to keep well. The demands of the needs of the body more fully understood, the limit of youih's reign would not end on the sunny side of forty, as it almost invaria- bly does to-day. The face first expresses failure cf mental or phy- sical power, and, therefore, it is well to guard this signboard of the way of life against the indications of the encroachments of time, and whatever may be clone in this direction should be by all and with many it is very important. Do not allow the thought of resignation to take possession of your mind because certain signs of de- cay of bodily charms are beginning to present them- selves. Rather meet them with opposition, and carry good soft hair, smooth skin and firm, round neck and bust into the advancing years with you. This is the age of usefulness of women, and it is a fact that attractiveness is a necessary quality, if one is not entirely ready to enter the retired list. WOMANLY BEAUTY ITS ELEMENTS AND REQUIREMENTS, By Dr. D. H. Jacques. The proportions of the perfect human figure are strictly mathematical. The whole figure is six times the length of the foot. Whether the form be slender or plump, this rule holds good. Any devia- tion from it is a departure from the highest beauty of proportion. The Greeks made all their statues according to this rule. The face, from the highest point of the forehead, where the hair begins, to the end of the chin, is one-tenth of the whole stature. The hand, from the wrist to the end of the middle finger, is the same. The chest is a fourth, and from the nipples to the top of the head is the same. From the top of the chest to the highest point of the fore- head is a seventh. If the length of the face, from the roots of the hair to the chin, be divided into three equal parts, the first division determines the point where the eyebrows meet, and the second the place of the nostrils. The navel is the central point of the human body; and if a man should lie on his back with his arms and legs extended, the pe- riphery of the circle which might be described around him, with the navel for its centre, would touch the extremities of his hands and feet. The height from the feet to the top of the head is the From "Physical Perfection. WOMANLY BEAUTY. same as the distance from the extremity of one hand to the extremity of the other when the arms are extended. These are general measures of the species. The beauty of the face depends much upon the profile, which, in its perfect form, approaches a straight line. Perfection in the nose requires that it should be so placed as to divide the face into two equal parts, and that it should be on nearly the same line with the forehead, with but a slight inflection at its junction. In woman, the nose itself should be perfectly straight. The law of perfect beauty requires that the mouth— that most expressive and eloquent feature of the human face divine— should be of medium size, but smaller in woman than in man. The curve of the upper lip is said to have furnished the ancient artists with a model for the bow of Cupid. It must extend beyond the lower lip, which must, however, be more fully developed and rounded, turning out- ward, so as to leave between it and the chin a grace- fully curved hollow. The teeth must be small, slightly rounded and perfecty even and white. The chin should be of moderate size, white, soft and gracefully rounded. Perfect beauty in the eye requires a long rather than a short opening between the eyelids, and immaculate clearness of both the white and the iris. Dark blue, black and brown eyes are most beautiful in woman. The eyes should be large rather than small. ITS ELEMENTS AND REQUIREMENTS 15 The cheeks should be moderately plump, and delicately tinged with the hues of health. The most beautiful hair is fine and soft, especially in woman, and either wavy or curling. Brown, au- burn and golden are generally thought to be the most beautiful colors. The ancients were great ad- mirers of golden hair, which they believed to sym- bolize the highest mental beauty and excellence. Many of the historic characters of antiquity are de- scribed as having hair of this color. Of Milto, the beautiful Ionian, we are told: "Her hair was yel- low, the locks a little curled." Helen of Troy, Pop- paea Sabina and Lucretia Borgia are described as having beautiful golden hair. The most beautiful neck in woman is white, smooth, straight and flex- ible; less above, and increasing gently toward the shoulders. The shoulders should be white, narrow and softly rounded, but firm and elastic. The whiteness, firmness and elasticity of the neck and shoulders should extend to the bosom, which, in woman, must be well developed, but not so large as to be at all out of proportion with the rest of the figure. The breasts must be gracefully rounded, smooth, equal in size and distinctly separated. The arms and hands are susceptible of a degree of beauty of which we see few examples. In wom- an, the arm is plumper and more rounded, and has softer forms and purer and more flowing outlines, than in man. The hand in woman is softer, whiter and fuller. The fingers, in their perfect form, are long, round, tapering and delicate. 18 WOMANLY BEAUTY. Beautiful ankles are not rare, but the feet of the moderns, and especially the women, are almost uni- versally deformed by tight boots and shoes. The second toe, which naturally projects most, as we see in the antique, is arrested in its development, and the foot, which in the outline of its extremity, ought to approach the elegant form of the ellipsis, is. rounded without beauty, and disfigured by our ridiculous compressions. The ancients attached much importance to the form of the feet, and the historians, as well as the poets, make mention of their beauty in speaking of Polysene, Aspasia and others. Conjoined with perfection of form in figure and face, we shall not fail to find that index of perfect functional integrity, a soft, smooth, transparent and delicately tinted skin. This is "the barometer of health and soundness of the individual, and the most indubitable sign of beauty." The cheeks must have the true blending of the rose and the lily. Too much redness is as far removed from the highest beauty as a deficiency of color. Beauty is the grand external sign of goodness of organization and integrity of function, and the highest possible beauty can indicate nothing else than perfection in these particulars. A lack of beauty in any member or system of the body indi- cates a lack of goodness or health in that member or system. Beauty, the sign of health, has no fellow- ship with disease. Beauty of Ofomankina— ttlby It Ca$t$ or fades. By Dr. C. H. Stratz, of Holland. Ever since man began to think, poets, painters and sculptors have glorified the beauty of woman in their words and works, and even scholars have not ignored the subject, trying to form theories as to the ideal of feminine beauty. The multitude have wondered at their productions and followed their lead. But they forget that all powerful nature in creative might produces every day fem- inine creatures far more beautiful than all that art and science have brought forth, but these they gen- erally overlook as unworthy of note, and not one sage cries out, "Look here at living beauty in flesh and blood!" I have sought a new method of judging human beauty, and instead of going to pictures or corpses, as the artists or anatomists do, I have studied liv- ing subjects. After fifteen years of investigation I have reached the conclusion that the way to beauty lies through a decreasing of the causes of ugliness — bad clothing, poor parents, faulty feed- ing, improper modes of life. Put these away and the human body will reach ideal beauty, for per- &C*w York Herald. 18 WOMANLY BEAUTY. feet beauty and perfect health are one and the same. The practical result of my work is that in preserv- ing the health of the growing- girl we are perfecting her beauty. It is only during the last few years that a canon of the proportions which go to make up the perfect- ly formed woman has been arrived at. Two wom- en of very different height may be perfectly propor- tioned and beautiful. UNIT OF MEASUREMENT. In the accompanying diagram the modulus, or unit of measurement, is the line a b, from the nose to a line across the hips. This is then divided into four equal parts — a e, ef, fN, and N b. The height of the head from the nose is equal to one of these parts, a c, and in the same way every part of the body can be measured and shown to be in proportion or not. If the modulus is twenty inches, the fourth of it will be five inches, and then all the measurements can be made. It will be noted also that in the model outline the perfect legs should touch in four places; the height should be equal to nine times the length of the hand and seven and one-half the length of the head. As figured out from this canon, the perfectly proportioned woman should be seven and a half times the height of her head, ten times the length of her face, nine times the length of her hand, and from six to seven times the length of her foot. WHY IT LASTS OR FADES 19 The distance between the temples should be equal to the length of the face. The arms should be three times the length of the head, the legs four times the length of the head, the shoulders two heads wide, and the upper and lower parts of the arm and of the leg should be of equal length. Trie proof that these measurements are correct is pre- sented by applying the canon to the best types of feminine beauty. «> WOMANLY BEAUTY. STUDY OF SPECIAL FEATURES. In studying the special features I have found that here, too, there were special detects and beauties. The perfect mouth has neither too full nor too thin lips, and the upper lip is neither too short nor too long. The very short lips of the English are the result chiefly of heredity, the dressing of the mother and peculiar nourishment. It is caused by the shape of the lower jaw and the length of the bone from the mouth to the nose. We speak of a large or a small eye, but the fact is that all eyes are nearly of the same size, and the difference lies only in the opening of the lids to a greater or less extent. The disposition of the per- son and intelligence have much to do with the control of the eyelids and the brilliancy of that most attractive feature of the human face. The regularly formed, well moulded ear is no small addition to, the symmetry of the head, and generally the defects lie in the too great develop- ment of the ear muscle. Exactly how this can be influenced is not yet ascertained, as it might be. The important question of the color of eyes and hair is a matter of temperament, and, therefore, of heredity, for they go back to the pigment which is found in the lymph of the body, and this is affected by the character of the person and her ancestors. NECK AND SHOULDERS. Every woman would like to be possessed of a beautiful neck and shoulders, and nothing depends more entirely upon herself and those who train WHY IT LASTS OR FADES 21 her as a girl. The carriage of the body and the shape of the well moulded neck and bust, which are to retain their beauty almost so long as the woman lives, are a result of the development of the mus- cles of the back, breast and shoulders. The current idea that a small hand is the only beautiful hand is not borne out by the best canon of proportions. The real beauty of the hand lies in its shape. It ought to be one-ninth the height of the body. The best shaped hand has fingers that taper gradually, with well curved nails, longer than they are broad. Perhaps the rarest perfect feature among civilized women is the perfect foot. The cause of so many ugly feet is directly* traceable to faulty shoes. The Javanese woman has a perfect foot because she never wore a shoe, and even though her foot may not be quite so small as some of those who cramp their toes into a number two, it conforms far better to the idea of art, as well as of nature. The second toe ought to extend beyond the great toe, but tight shoes cramp it and make it shorter. The per- fect foot ought to have so high an instep that when set on the ground a little bird could sit under the inner side. That painful and deforming affliction, flat footedness, is the result of nothing except cramping shoes. PRE-NATAL. INFLUENCES. Even before birth many influences may be brought to bear to the proper development of the child. If the mother is careful as to her mode of WOMANLY BEAUTY. life and food, much is being done for her offspring. She should eat properly. It is to be regretted that among the lower classes both the quantity and qual- ity of the food are not sufficiently cared for at this critical period. The baby that is extremely thin or extremely fat has not been properly cared for and fed before its birth. In general, women of the better class may have good food, but on the other hand, they lack the physical exercise which is forced upon their hum- bler sisters, so that there is a compensation for each. It is unfortunate that it is considered normal for one side or one portion of the body to be more highly developed than the other. The unsymmetrical body can never be beautiful. Early marriages have a bad effect both upon mother and child. The mother is forced to an earlv decline of all the vital powers. Every woman YEAR THE BEAUTY CURVE.— The black line shows the de- velopment and decline of normal beauty by years; the dotted line, the beauty that develops and fades early. ought to be at the height of her beauty between the WHY IT LASTS OR FADES. 23 ages of twenty-three and thirty-three. If such is not the case the cause must be sought either in lack of proper care or food, or, as is very frequently the case, too early marriage. The proper age for marriage is between twenty and twenty-two, preferably the latter, In some cases a very early development of beauty presages a rapid decline. Women of the so-called better classes generally mature later and preserve their beauty longer than those of the working classes, and this is due chiefly to the better food and lack of straining labor. The influence of heredity is a very important one in the development of beauty. It is admitted that features are inherited, and it is certain that where two persons with the same ancestors, as is the case with cousins, marry, the child is apt to reproduce the bad features of those ancestors in an extreme form. No human beings are perfect, and where utter strangers marry there is much more chance of developing a harmonious and beautiful being than where the common characteristics are exaggerated, as must be the case in the marriage of blood rela- tions. Only a physician can appreciate the very great importance which nourishment and exercise play in the development of perfect beauty. The com- monest of diseases from lack of proper nourishment is rickets, and there is nothing which has a more deleterious effect upon the human form than this malady. 24 WOMANLY BEAUTY. IMPORTANCE OF EXERCISE. Extremes of leanness or fatness are also due to ill regulated or poorly nourished beings. The impor- tance of regular and scientific exercises upon the development of the female form were never better illustrated than in the picture of a woman twenty- six years old who will retain both form and feature many years longer than her sister who has been either misguided or too indolent to take the proper exercise. Tendencies, too, to tuberculosis may easily be overcome under proper conditions, and the sunken chest and narrow shoulders of the prospective con- sumptive be developed into more rounded and aes- thetic form as well as healthy color. After measuring twenty-five of the best propor- tioned women whom I have found I ascertained that they varied in height between 5 feet 1 inch and 5 feet 7 inches; in breadth of shoulders, from 13.65 to 15.6 inches; diameter of waist, 7 to 9.36 inches; distance across the hips, from 12 to 14 inches. GOOD AND BAD FEATURES. I have found it necessary to tabulate the good and bad features in two divisions. The first has to do with those which are the result of more distant causes, such as heredity, pre-natal influences, &c. The second covers defects that rest more directly upon the will and common sense of the girl and those who have to do with her rearing. WHY IT LASTS OR FADES. FIRST DIVISION. GOOD FEATURES. Slender, fine bones. Round limbs. Full breasts. Broad pelvis. Luxuriant, long hair. Smooth lips. Thin, soft skin. Round skull. Small face. Large, deep eye sockets. High, small eyebrows. Delicate lower jawbone. Even surface between cheek and neck. Rounded neck. Slender wrist. Narrow hand, with long index finger. Well rounded shoulders. Straight, small collarbone. Hollows over the loins. Round, thick upper thigh. Rounded calf. Slender ankle. Th'n foot, with thin toes. Second toe long, little toe short. DEFECTS. Heavy, thick bones. Angular limbs. Flat breasts. Small pelvis. Thin, short hair. A mustache. Thick, hard skin. Angular skull. Large face. Small eye sockets. Lowering, bushy eyebrows. Broad lower jawbone. Sharply separated neck and prominent jaw. Bony neck and Adam's apple. Plump wrist. Broad hand, with long ring finger. Bony shou'.ders. Curved, thick collarbone. Flat over the loins. Thin, flat thigh. Thin and angular calf. Heavy ankle. Plump foot, with broad toes. Great toe longest and little toe prolonged. SECOND DIVISION. Symmetry of the upper and lower parts of the body. Normal weight. Shining, elastic skin. General muscular develop- ment. Slender joints. Well formed upper lip. Even, regular teeth. Slender, straight nose. Round chin, with dimples. Rounded shoulders. Flat, round stomach. Arched back. Rounded elbows. Slender, long hands. Long second finger. Arched, long nails. Slender, long foot. Straight legs. Straight great toe. Longer second toe. Asymmetry between the two parts of the body. Too heavy or too light. Dull, hard skin. Poor muscles. Thick, swollen joints. Prominent upper lip, thick or too short. Projecting, irregular teeth. Broad, pug or flat nose. Sharp or double chin. Angular shoulders. Protruding stomach. Flat back. Pointed elbows. Short, broad hands. Long forefinger. Flat, short nails. Plump, broad foot. Bow legs or knock knees. Great toe turned inward. Longer great toe. Rockwood Photo. Miss Louise Rockwell. B Ulcll Balanced temperament. temperamental types* By Sarah C. Turner. In Studying types of physical beauty we find there is a temperamental difference which must be taken into account, Bodily configuration is influenced and determined by physical conditions which are known as temperamental and are derived from the differ- ent systems of organs or factors that are found in each individual. We have the bones and muscu- lar system, which give size and strength; the vital organs; stomach, heart and lungs, giving bodily power, and the brain and nervous system, giving mental strength; in proportion as these exist, we have the temperamental types. The Motive Temperament is not usually found in women, and is nearly always modified by the Vi- tal and Mental. In this type the bony framework and muscular system predominate, whether the per- son be large or small; the bones are proportionate- ly long, with strong muscles and prominent joints, giving somewhat of angularity to the form and the features, the chest moderate in size, the shoulders broad, the limbs long and only moderately tapering; the cheek bones, the nose and all the features of the face will be relatively large, as well as the hands and 28 WOMANLY BEAUTY. the feet; the figure is usually tall and somewhat striking, if not elegant, embodying a type of phys- ical beauty that sometimes proves very attractive, especially when modified by the Vital and Mental. Persons with this temperament will be known for strong, positive traits of character, persistent, self-reliant, ambitious, forcible, with a good brain; are likely to be leaders in thought and action, usu- ally in some special direction, and have good execu- tive ability. When this temperament is in excess much can be done to modify its manifestation by cultivating more of the Vital by restraining one's physical ac- tivity, improving digestion, deep breathing and cul- tivating and encouraging a tendency to become more fleshy, so rounding out the form, making the bony structure less prominent. When it is lacking, cultivate muscular activity, by gymnastic and other exercises, seek outdoor life, use food containing bone forming material, culti- vate a spirit of independence and take responsibili- ties that will call for action. The Vital Temperament, more often found in women than in men. depends upon the digestive system, good breathing power, good circulation and assimilation, and is indicated by breadth and thickness of the body, with the length of limbs and size of bones proportionately less than in the Mo- tive Temperament; the chest and bust are full, the abdomen well developed, the limbs plump and ta- pering, with hands and feet relatively small; the Rice Photo. Anita Newcomb McGee, Acting Surgeon, U. S. A. the motive temperament. 85 WOMANLY BEAUTY. neck is short, the shoulders well filled out, the face plump and inclined to a rosy or ruddy complexion. Persons of this temperament are not apt to worry, are ardent, genial and contented, working with much less friction than is usually found in the Mo- tive and Mental types. In this temperament there is sometimes a ten- dency, especially in advancing years, to an excess of flesh so as to affect unfavorably the personal ap- pearance, too great fulness in the hips, abdomen, bust and face, which can and should be controlled by the cultivation of a more active life and a proper restraining of the appetite, especially in the use of liquids and an excess of sweets and fat producing foods, and by the use of massage. To cultivate the Vital when it is lacking, increase the lung power by deep breathing and the circula- tion by proper exercise, use the most easily di- gested foods, avoid stimulants, spices, condiments, strong acids or watery vegetables, secure plenty of sleep and rest, and seek an easy, comfortable life, free from care, until vitality is built up. The Mental Temperament is characterized by a frame relatively slight and a highly nervous organi- zation. Here we find smallness of bones and small- ness of body, with a face that is oval in shape, the upper part of the forehead always high and broad, the limbs, hands and feet small and thin, delicately chiseled features, a transparent skin and fine hair; the chest and bust only moderate in size, the figure slight, is often elegant and graceful, but not strik- Rockwood Photo. Mrs. Ruth Fuller Field. the Uital temperament. 31 32 WOMANLY BEAUTY. ing or commanding. In persons with this temper- ament the feelings are refined, they are sensitive to all surroundings, imaginative, sympathetic, poetic, and inclined to artistic and literary pursuits. There should always be a watchfulness not to al- low this temperamental condition to become too strong or the nervous organization will break down ; cultivate the Vital Temperament, which will be- come a modifying influence; this will best be done by restraining mental activity, using only nutritious and easily digested foods, securing an abundance of sleep, regular exercise and outdoor life. To cultivate this temperament, take up carefully thoughtful reading and study, seek cultivated so- ciety and refining influences; avoid all that tends to coarseness of thought or life, make the most of your mind. The person possessing either of these tempera- mental conditions in an extreme degree should en- deavor to modify them by acquiring more of that which is lacking, but not expecting to. wholly change the temperamental tendencies. In the cul- tivation of womanly beauty : t must not be expect- ed that all can arrive at the same standard, but each should strive for the modification of striking tem- peramental peculiarities in the ways indicated, and the results will amply repay for the efforts made in a more even, symmetrical organization and char- acter. Kockwood Photo. Miss Ysobel Haskins. the mental temperament. 33 o * 2. 5 32,3^3 p ;■.-.« g-in CMP teg.— 3 1 gj g 'I P 5 P c-3 E- '5^-3s9»3 -~ 2 M P3 » H P-S3. IP 111 ii§ 2 JQ '/l III fa - o lie s a* * "P ! g 5. o « 2, J? P P — p *tj | > P O a* Breathing ana Beauty. By Dr. W. R. C. Latson. Breathing- is closely related to beauty both of form and feature. Full breathing is always asso- ciated with broad, deep chest and erect carriage, and is essential to those other activities which pro- duce clear skin, bright eyes and well nourished tissues. Few people realize that, important as is the mat- ter of proper ventilation and pure air, the proper use of the lungs is a matter of still greater impor- tance. The blood comes to the lungs laden with the products G'f tissue waste, giving up in the lungs its accumulation of poisonous matter and returning to the tissues with oxygen for their maintenance. This circuit is made three times in every minute, and at this rate the lungs eliminate about a half pound of carbon dioxid in a day. When it is considered that about one-third of the entire excreta is elim- inated by the lungs, and that every breath con- taminates 5,000 cubic inches or nearly half a barrel of pure air, the immense importance of an ade- quate supply of pure air and of properly utilizing that air by full breathing will be better appreciated. Not only is the practice 01 full, deep breathing productive of health and_beauty_and preventive of 36 WOMANLY BEAUTF. disease, but it is curative of many diseases. The most important of all gymnastics are breathing ex- ercises. The most valuable feature of any exercise is that it should necessitate deep breathing. The most beneficial habit possible to form is the habit of slow, full breathing. 'Throughout all nature, from the guinea pig, which breathes 140 times a minute, to the elephant, which breathes six times a minute, one rule holds good — the stronger the ani- mal the more slowly it breathes. The most important result of full breathing, as we have already seen, is increased oxygenation of the blood and the augmented elimination of the waste matters carried by the blood to the lungs. In addition to these the mechanical action of full breathing accelerates the peristaltic movements of the stomach and intestines and thereby helps di- gestion, assimilation and all the other vital func- tions. The conditions of proper breathing are few and simple. The first is proper carriage of the body and the second is freedom from tight encircling bands, such as corsets, belts, tight collars or waist- coats. The usual teaching is that there are three methods of taking in the breath, the clavicular, the lateral and the abdominal. In the clavicular breath the abdomen is held immovable and the inhaled air is allowed to raise and expand the ribs at the upper part of the chest. In lateral breathing the ribs at the sides of the chest are expanded by the inhaled air, while the abdominal breath is taken by Fig. 1. 33 WOMANLY BEAUTY. holding chest immorable and allowing diaphragm to move downward and abdominal walls outward. It is usually stated that one of these breathing efforts is the correct one and that the others are incorrect; also, that the normal respiration for women is the clavicular and for men the abdominal. Such teaching could result only from a superficial study of abnormal models. In the normal breath the entire thorax, chest, abdomen, sides and back expands with every inspiration. Such expansion, however, is possible only where the body is proper- ly carried and is unconstricted. With most women whose waists are lightly bound by a corset and sev- eral skirt bands abdominal action is impossible, and the only action by which they can take in air is by using the chest muscles. With men. the tight linen collar, the suspenders and the tightly buttoned waistcoat render the upper part of the trunk im- movable, and only the lower or abdominal breath can be used. In these days of freedom and enlight- enment most of us are the complacent appendages of our clothes, and we breathe as our clothes per- mit. The first requisite, then, for proper breathing is correct carriage of the body. This is rare — so rare that, in an examination of several thousand cases,. I have found less than one per cent of normal figures. Ninety-nine out of every hundred people have curvature of the spine. The exercises given herewith for carriage and breathing are, if perseveringly practiced, sufficient Fig. 2.-Proflle W-R-Cb. Fig. 3— front View. 40 WOMANLY BEAUTY. for the acquirement of both, and have so proven in a large number of cases in my private practice. It is not by practicing a large variety of exercises but by assiduous work with a few properly selected movements that the desired results are to be at- tained. The exercises for position consist of movements which shall stretch certain ligaments and permit the osseous structure to be adjusted so as to allow freedom of movement in breathing or walking. EXERCISE NO. 1. Stand erect, heels together, toes out. Bend for- ward and, without raising heels or allowing knees to bend, try to touch the toes with the finger tips. (See figure I.) Note.' — Yon will not, at first, be able to reach the toes with the finger tips, hut it is not necessary thai you should. The effort tn do so will stretch the shortened ligaments and conduce to the correct position. EXERCISE NO. 2. Stand erect, knees, hips and chin back, chest raised. Without lifting heels, sway the body for- ward until the weight is on the balls of the feet. Then take full breath, and. with head thrown back, raise the arms, palm forward, and stretch the whole body upward and forward, as if you were trying to reach the ceiling. (See figures 2 and 3). EXERCISE NO. Z. Stand erect, feet about twelve inches apart. Take weight upon right foot, extend right hand upward, palm outward. Xow take full breath, raise left foot from floor and stretch, trying to increase the W-ROU 42 "WOMANLY BEAUTY. distance between the right hand and the left foot. (See figure 4). EXERCISE NO. A. This is the reverse of No. 3. Take weight on left foot, raise left hand and stretch as in previous ex- ercise. (See figure 4). EXERCISE NO. 5. Stand with right foot in advance, as if taking a step. Take full breath. Then, raising right hand toward ceiling, palm forward, lift the left foot from the floor and stretch upward and forward. (See figure 5). EXERCISE NO. 6. Reverse of No. 5. EXERCISE NO. 7. Stand as in exercise No. 5, right foot in advance. Then with weight on left foot, raise left arm up and backward, palm forward, lift right foot and stretch. (See figure 6.) EXERCISE NO. 8. Reverse of No. 7. The stretching exercises should always be fol- lowed by an exercise for relaxation. The best I know for general purposes is the following: — EXERCISE NO. 9. Stand with feet well apart, whole body relaxed, arms hanging loosely. Now shake the body, only gently, using the least possible muscular exertion, until conscious of a feeling of general muscular re- laxation and restfulness. This exercise may be varied by walking about, allowing the whole body ** WOMANLY BEAUTY. to sway and sag, as if deeply intoxicated. This ex- ercise besides being a corrective of the tension liable to result from the stretching and reaching exercises, is always restful, and oftentimes will re- lieve insomnia. In may be remarked, in connection with these exercises, that many of those distressing disorders peculiar to womankind (civilized womankind) may be entirely cured by a properly adapted course of stretching, posing and breathing gymnastics. BREATHING EXERCISES. Owing to constriction of the waist, few women make proper use of the abdominal muscles in breathing. To remedy this, the following exercise is recommended: — EXERCISE NO. 10. Lie flat on the back upon a level surface. Relax all the muscles. Now, with hands upon the abdo- men, take a long, deep, gentle inspiration. If re- laxation has been maintained, the first movement observed will be a thrusting outward of the abdo- men. As the inhalation proceeds, the movement passes upward until the last air inhaled expands the upper part of the trunk. No not try to force the muscles into correct action. Simply try to take a long, gentle respiration. The thorax unre- stricted by clothing will always expand as described. This exercise, by the way, is one of the classic de- vices of the old masters of Italian singing, and is one of the "secrets" of the so-called "Italian meth- od." A similar device is also used by the Yogis of BREATHING AND BEAUTY Ah India as a religious exercise for mental concentra- tion and self control. EXERCISE NO. 11. Sit erect in an ordinary straight-backed chair, head-back, chest raised, spine straight. Now, with hands on abdomen, inhale gently as in the preceding- exercise; and note that first the waist and then the chest enlarges. As soon as the full capacity of the lungs has been reached, exhale with the same gen- tleness and notice that first the chest, then the sides and back and lastly the abdomen sinks. EXERCISE NO. 12. Stand erect, weight forward, head back, chest up, arms hanging easily, and take full, gentle inspira- tion, allowing first the abdomen and then the sides and chest to be filled by the inhaled air. Exhale in the same manner, occasionally testing the correct- ness of the action by placing one hand upon the chest and the other upon the abdomen, remember- ing that the first air inhaled should expand the waist. EXERCISE NO. 13. For this exercise a breathing tube is necessary. The breathing tube is a small cylinder of hard rub- ber, through which air taken into the lungs may be expelled with more or less force. The best instru- ment I know of the kind is the Wilhide Exhaler, If the Wilhide is used, remove both caps. Then take position, place the tube between the lips and take, through the nose, a full, gentle inha- lation, expanding first the waist and then the chest. 46 WOMANLY BEAUTY. The moment lungs are filled exhale gently through the tube, using very little force, a steady "stream of air, until lungs are empty. Remember that in these breathing exercises any haste or force will defeat the end in view, besides, perhaps, injuring the delicate pulmonary tissues. Taken as herein directed, these exercises cannot in- jure the most delicate and will be found adequate for the most robust. They may be practiced at any time except within an hour after meals. Fatigue or dizziness should be the sign to discontinue. From an extensive experience in prescribing these exercises, and from the reports of others who have used them, I am convinced that, the best gym- nasium is the body that each of us owns, and that the best gymnastics are the breathing gymnastics. As one among many instances personally known to the writer of the curative effects of breathing gymnastics, the case of Mme. Donna Madixxa, for years a successful teacher of physical culture and dramatic expression, is most interesting and en- couraging — Mme. Madixxa's experiences are told in the article following this paper, in her own words. Illy Experience lUitb Curative Breathing. By Mme. Donna Madixxa. I have been invited to give some of my personal experiences in Curative Breathing. It has been my great privilege and happiness to assist in the restoration to> vigorous and healthful activity of a large number of over-worked, overfed and over- doctored people during the nearly twenty years ■of my life devoted to the teaching of physical cul- ture. Many a confirmed dyspeptic owes his cure to correct breathing; many a weak-lunged, narrow- chested individual has escaped consumption by the development of the chest muscles and extension of the breathing capacity. Many aching backs and incipient cases of kidney and uterine diseases have been checked, and even cured in full development, by the straightening of a crooked spine, and by re- moving the abnormal pressure upon the diseased organs in a correct attitude. Many a weakling, un- graceful school girl has bloomed into healthful, at- tractive womanhood through the practice of breathing exercises. But perhaps the most marked case I have ever known is my own. Being most "thoroughly informed" in this instance, you will 48 WOMANLY BEAUTY. I trust, pardon the inevitable egoism of the narra- tive. Leaving college a scrawny, delicate girl, after ac- quiring the usual hodge-podge of facts the gradu- ated young woman is expected to know, and with my vitality sapped, as is often the case, in the ac- quirement of the prescribed course, I became a wife and mother while still a child in years. The duties of untrained wifehood, motherhood and nursehood left me a physical wreck at twenty-three. I con- sulted noted physicians, and they advised tonics of various kinds, but I did not "tone." I was recom- mended a "bracing climate," but it did not "brace." I could not eat food of any kind without great dis- tress, so I almost gave up eating. I fainted upon walking up stairs without assistance I weighed a hundred and twenty-five pounds and was losing a pound a week. The doctors then gave me up to die, of what they termed "consumption of the blood." At this time it was my very good fortune to meet the then dean of the Boston University School of Oratory, Lewis B. Monroe, teacher of the Delsarte method of physical culture. After an hour's conversation with him he said, "My child, there is nothing the matter with you except that you don't know how to sit. stand, walk or breathe. You are a delicately regulated machine, and you simply don't know how to run yourself. You can- not eat, you say, without distress; now your food is the fuel put into the firebox of the engine to pro- duce steam, but you must turn on the draughts or BREATHING AND BEAUTY 49 it will not burn. Your breath is the draught; turn it on in full force, burn your fuel, raise your steam and the wheels will begin to turn." From that day I began to live. I discarded all other doctors and consulted only the principles of Delsarte, as the physician. I learned to breathe deep, full breaths from the diaphragm, instead of the little catchy breaths I had been taking, by lift- ing the chest and shoulders, in that way only filling the apex of the lungs without expanding the more vital portion at the base. I ate what 1 liked, and abundantly, and then "turned on the draughts." thus furnishing with each inhalation the purifying oxygen to the blood, while the vigorous diaphragm- atic expansion and contraction acted like an old fashioned dash churn upon the inactive stomach and liver, compelling them to perform their offices. My debilitated condition had induced a sinking in of the chest and dropping forward of the shoulders until I was very little removed from a hunchback. I walked as a weak person will, upon the heels; this threw the abdomen forward and curved the spine so that at twenty-three I had the carriage of a de- crepit old woman. After six weeks' vigorous prac- tice of the breathing and physical gymnastics taught in the School of Oratory and the acquiring of a correct posture and carriage, I began to look less like a jointed doll, and actually gained a pound a week, this in solid muscle, not in flesh. One morning, walking across the Common to our lecture room on Somerset street, I met one of 61 WOMANLY BEAUTY. my "tonic" physicians, who had professionally con- signed me to the land of shades several weeks be- fore. "Oh," he said, "is this really you? And look- ing so well! That prescription of mine worked wonders." When I finally convinced him that he had had nothing whatever to do with my recovery, he looked as though he considered it a great imper- tinence on my part not to have taken my departure as he had predicted. My case, however, was so marked that it aroused his professional instincts, and he finally became such a convert to the bene- fits of physical culture as to send me. as pupils, many who came to him a^ patients. The gentle- man who prescribed a bracing climate pooh-poohed at my tale of physical culture, but I was alive when he had said professionally that I ought to be dead, and there was no getting over that fact. He finally sent me his daughter, a beautiful, highly cultivated, but fragile girl, to learn the things that Delsarte, the physician, could teach. On her re- turn home she put her father through a course of the breathing and gymnastic exercises that he in- sisted was all "torn foolery." but which reduced his excessive embonpoint and made him lcok and feel younger by fifteen years. For twenty years I have not known what it was" to be seriously ill. Sometimes I am induced, through good fellowship, to overdo in my eating. My friends "take things" and groan. I open the window, straighten my spine, expand my chest, and breathe-breathe-breatlT 1 and thank God I know how! A great element of beauty is a good poise and carriage of the body. Too many women have a prominent abdomen and flat and sunken chest from bad position in standing. These illustrations from Mrs. lye Favre's work on Physical Culture show what is meant, and the results of wrong attitude. The chest should be raised and the abdomen drawn back. With a little practice of the exercises given, this will become easy, and produce a most desirable change. Sleep — Its effects on Beauty. By Ella Van Poole. Sleep, the rest which holds the eyelids down, is of the utmost importance in good looks. There is no means, aid or condition so productive or pre- serving of a pleasing appearance as proper and suf- ficient sleep. Nothing will promote brightness and vivacity like this death-like rest which nature de- mands once every twenty-four hours. This fact is ignored by many of the most intelligent men and women. They know it, but they don't seem to know it well enough. Every walk in life seems too full — there is so much to do — "the world is too much with us," there does not seem time enough to sleep. When a halt is called, and we are forced to learn that we can accomplish much more by rea- son of stronger nerves, granted by the proper amount of sleep, we are on the way to successful accomplishment of our hearts' desires. Our cities are filled with tired eyes and faded complexions from lack of sleep. Our country places offer tired countenances from overwork. Society women consume their nights in revels of pleasure and their days in the duties incumbent upon their position and wonder why they fade. The farmer's wife works all day and half the night arising in the morning nn- 54 WOMANLY BEAUTY. rested and urrefreshed, and wonders why she ages faster than her husband, whose work is done at dark. Youthful strength and comely ap- pearance is absolutely dependent upon sufficient sleep. The woman who will consider this fact as positive will give the subject of sleep as much at- tention as she will that of diet or dress, or any other requirement of existence. To those who have been neglectful of this important function, I would advise, first, a determination to grant sufficient time from pleasure or duty for its full need. Then go to bed with the intention of sleeping — make your preparations by removing every garment worn through the day, putting on a loose single garment which has comfort for its recommendation. Do not sleep on feathers, this style of bed is a rem- nant of ignorance — a cotton or wool mattress is a good bed. Have your pillow just high enough to raise the head a little above the level of the body, and place the pillow under the head — not under the shoulders. Sleep between sheets and under light but warm covering. Do not place your bed directly in a draft, but be sure to have an open window in your room; night air is only fresh air, and it is as necessary during sleep as at any oth- er time. Sleep alone, and without a light. As- sume a comfortable position, and lie hard upon the bed. This means relaxation of body. A child will make a greater impression where it lies in a bed than an adult, by reason of its more complete relaxation. Do not sleep with your face close to SLEEP— ITS EFFECTS ON BEAUTY. 55 or near the wall. If the head is hot and the brain is overcharged with blood, treat the neck with a downward movement with the massage roller and it will tend to relieve the blood pressure in the head; this will also relieve neuralgia, from which many are liable to suffer at night. If sleepless, or if sleep comes slowly, relax the body and mind. Begin by forcing the toes, then the feet, then the tense mus- cles of the limbs, &c, to give up — to assume life- lessness. Let the jaw fall if you feel a sort of rigid- ity about the mouth. You may find the hands and the eye most stubborn to yield. Relaxation of the body or mind is simply giving up. Relax the body first, as you will need the mind to do it. Then force the mind to think of nothing — and unless there is some derangement of the bodily functions this alone will put you to sleep. One of the most common methods to induce sleep needs correction; that is, making great efforts of various kinds. In- stead of striving, and worrying about it, relax, give up; and if sleep does not come at once, you will at least rest, but, generally, when the strain is taken away from the brain, the body will begin to rest, and sleep will follow. Sleep and effort are foes. The old darky who said to his master, who vainly courted sleep: — "The best cure I knows of is to stay up the night before," was not far wrong in his ad- vice. To those who are sufferers from insomnia, try to remove the cause which provokes the nerves to this state of rebellion, by correcting the habits, by changing the diet, and by proper massage of the 56 WOMANLY BEAUTY. body. If tobacco, coffee, or other stimulants are to blame, stop them, either at once, or gradually; eat light, plain food, at regular hours, taking a cup of hot milk at bedtime, if you have been active- ly engaged since the last meal, and further aid na- ture's restorer by flushing the colon before retiring, thus relieving the system of refuse matter which causes pressure upon the nerve centres, and im- pedes free circulation of the blood. My own expe- rience and that of many whom I know is that mas- sage of the body, calculated to balance the circula- tion, will induce sound, healthy sleep. Get ready for sleep, and having relaxed the body by a few minutes' resting in a comfortable position, have some attendant or member of the family turn down the bed clothes except a light blanket, over which, with a Dr. Forest Massage Roller, roll you, begin- ning at the toes upward over the limbs to the waist. Then beginning at the fingers roll the arms to the shoulder. Then the spine, or over either side of the spine, from the head downward. This should be done as lightly or as heavily as seems pleasant or agreeable. This treatment, lasting- twenty minutes or less, will leave you too sleepy to say good night, and the sleep will last for hours. A practice recommended to the sleepless is the taking of an air bath. This, before going to bed, or even getting up and taking it as an aid to sleep, will often prove beneficial. One should be di- vested of all clothing and walk about, rubbing or rolling the body while in contact with the air. tbe Rome J\ Gymnasium* By Mrs, O. V. Sessions. "All time and money spent in training the body pays a larger Interest than any other investment." No doubt you are prepared to hear a description of a method for fitting up a room at home to be used as a gymnasium. And some of you may be saying, "A gymnasium is a good thing for students or for people who have nothing to do, but I have all the exercise I need before I get through with my housework,'' Nevertheless, we hope you will all de- cide to have one, even when you learn that you need not only one room but your whole house, with porches and yard included for our ideal home gym- nasium. As to the necessary equipments, a broom or a hoe may develop muscle as well as Indian clubs, and a pail of water makes a good "lifting exerciser." Possibly we can make our ideas practical by draw- ing a comparison between the day's work of two average women in ordinary circumstances, neither of whom was ever rugged and strong. One, whom we shall call "Mrs. Wise," has studied physical cul- ture and now applies the principles to her daily duties. The other, whom we shall call "Mrs. Fool- ish," said that she had "too much exercise without taking lessons." Tuesday morning Mrs. Foolish is awakened from a tiresome dream by the alarm clock. She has slept 68 WOMANLY BEAUTY, in a tense position and is not rested, but thinking of all she has to do, hastily arises, twists up her hair, washes her face and is dressed in a few moments. With shoes half fastened, she drags about preparing a breakfast of fried potatoes and meat, lard, biscuit and coffee. She has heard of new "health foods," but imagines they are tasteless, sloppy things, de- signed only for invalids, and continues serving meals in the old way without a thought as to their nutri- ent qualities or digestibility. At the table she sits in such a manner that her stomach is crowded below its normal position and could not perform its work naturally, but having no appetite she merely drinks some strong coffee, which braces her up as does a man's drink at the bar; then she can work with more energy. Soon, however, the effects of the stimulant pass off, leaving her more nervous and tired than before. When washing dishes she leans against the sink, throwing herself so badly out of poise that every movement she makes adds injury to vital organs, while the dish water splashes down the front of her dress, giving her a very untidy appearance By the time she has swept the sitting room, dining- room and kitchen she feels that her exercise is any- thing but pleasant or healthful. How she dreads going up stairs, for it always makes her back ache, but the chamberwork must be done, and so taking a pail of water, she drags herself and it up the stairs, reaching the top quite exhausted. She never stands with her weight on the proper muscles, and now when making beds she curves her poor spine, Fig. 1 — Improper Standing Fig. 2— Correct Standing Position Position. 60 WOMANLY BEAUTY. throws her shoulders forward, compresses her lungs and drops the diaphragm down upon the abdominal organs. Of course, with this position, all her move- ments become harmful rather than beneficial. She would like to rest before beginning to iron, but fears that she might not get through before dinner, so forces herself on until the ironing is completed. She is averse to changing old habits, and thinks it would seem lazy to sit to do any housework, so con- tinuing her wretched standing position she prepares vegetables for dinner, and before the meal is on the table she feels ready to drop. Being faint and hun- gry now, she eats too much, and as the blood and digestive fluids are poisoned by her exhaustion her food is not digested. Her husband is depressed by her tired face and cannot enjoy the meal which she has so carefully prepared. After dinner she bids the children keep out of her way because she is too nervous to endure their noise, and when she has put away the dishes she shuts herself alone in a close room and bending low over her work she sews hur- riedly until supper time. By this time her blood has become impoverished from lack of oxygen and has distributed so much poison that Mrs. Foolish has a severe headache and views the world through blue glasses. Her husband, having had numerous an- noyances in his business all day, does not feel very- patient, and his wife's sadness frets him until after supper he lets fall a thoughtless word which upsets her worn nerves, and she goes to her room and cries herself to sleep. Her whole day ha? been spent in Fig. 3— Improper, Fig. 4— Proper. Fig. 5— Climbing Stairs Improper. Fig. 6— Climbing Stairs Proper. 64 WOMANLY BEAUTY. unselfish labor for the sake of her dear ones, and it seems very trying to have it end in such a manner. But she has forgotten the words "to thine own self be true," &c., and in being unjust to herself she has proved unjust to every one else. She has not learned to distinguish between wise justice and real selfish- ness. If we hold a man responsible for his actions when drunk because he is responsible for getting drunk, then is not a woman responsible for her irritability when worn out if by a little forethought she might prevent herself getting worn out? Mrs. Wise thinks so, and now let us see how she has been spending this same Tuesday. Having learned to relax she has passed a restful night, awakens refreshed and gives a hearty stretch — such as all healthy animals enjoy upon arousing into consciousness. After the relaxation which naturally follows, she finds herself fully awake to the gladness of a new day and plans how to spend it wisely. Knowing that while asleep she has not breathed deeply enough to allow the most remote lung cells to exchange their poisonous gases for fresh oxygen and ozone, she now lies flat on her back and spends a few moments in slowly emptying and filling the lungs. She has had the room so thoroughly ventilated all night that the air is pure for this. To enlarge the chest for these deep breaths, she does not drop the diaphragm and crowd the abdomen down and out, but she stretches the ribs out so widely that air rushes through her dilated nostrils to fill' the lungs and make them oc- THE HOME A GYMNASIUM. 65 cupy the large space formed. As the ribs widen the diaphragm flattens and the oblique abdominal muscles are stretched, thus giving the abdomen a flattened appearance. Now Mrs. Wise arises and takes a cold bath. As she briskly rubs the rough towel from head to foot she exercises almost every muscle and sets her blood to circulating so freely and the entire machinery of her body to working so harmoniously that she feels it is a joy just to live. When brushing her hair she stands well poised and widens the chest before lifting her arms — thus the trunk is held together in one compact whole, while the arms are free and light. One of Del Sarte's foun- dation principles was "solidity at the centre — free- dom at the circumference." By the time Mrs. Wise is neatly dressed fifteen minutes have elapsed since she awakened, but she does not count this time lost because her body must be kept a fit temple for her soul, and now she is better ready to attend to the duties of the day with a composure which Mrs. Foolish never experiences. In the words of Milton, "Grace is in all her steps, Heaven in her eyes, In every gesture, dignity and love." Believing that no exercise can perfect a body Which is poorly nourished — either by too much or not enough good food, or by that which is unwhole- some, Mrs. Wise makes a study of food values and provides for her family simple dishes suited to build up healthy bodily tissue. She moves about with a light, elastic step, and soon has an inviting break- Fig. 7— Improper Bending. Fig. 8— Proper Bending. 68 WOMANLY BEAUTY. fast prepared. Her kitchen is air)- and pleasant/ and her exercise has given her as good an appetite as her husband and children have gained in the meantime out in the garden. In going to the table she steps before her chair, then, gracefully pivoting on the balls of her feet and widening her chest, she bends her knees and swings down into the chair, feeling- so well that she has no need of a back to the chair. After an enjoyable meal her little girl exercises by clear- ing the table and wiping the dishes. Mrs. Wise stands well poised, and, bending slightly at the hips leans forward to her dishpan without compressing her chest, and not a drop of water is splashed upon her dress. By breathing and standing well she finds it a good exercise to sweep the dining room and kitchen while her daughter pushes the carpet sweeper around in the sitting room. She is now ready to go up stairs, and must carry a pitcher of Mater. Her usual manner of ascending the stairs is to. stoop and catch the lower part of her skirts in each hand so that they will be held up as her arms hang relaxed. Then, taking a wide breath, she lightly runs up stairs, exhaling when she reaches the top. But when she has something to carry she catches up her dress, then, taking a wide breath, she stoops to lift her burden, carries it a few steps at a time, and then stops to rest and inhale again. By taking these precautions she can go up and down stairs all that is necessary with- out any injury. When making beds she maintains THE HOME A GYMNASIUM. 69 her good poise, and to tuck in the covers, bends at the hip joints instead of rounding her shoulders. Each time before throwing on a cover she takes a wide breath, and, without feeling any strain, moves her arms in as graceful a curve as in the pretty ex- ercises she learned at the gymnasium. Crawling on all fours is a good exercise, which she uses in wiping up the bathroom floor. In order to let her nerves and muscles gain strength for the work to follow she now lies flat on the floor for a relaxing exercise. Dropping her arms down on the floor in the easiest position, she closes her eyes and tries to fancy that a great power — gravitation — is pulling her through the floor, until she can completely relax herself into its grasp. Then she causes her mind to be a blank by forgetting everything and lies as though asleep for five minutes. Upon arising she feels as fresh as in the morning, and lightly runs down stairs to the hot irons awaiting her. Not wishing to overtax her standing muscles she sits to iron the plain pieces, and when standing is careful to retain a good position and keep her lungs well filled. The ironing completed she sits on the porch to prepare vegetables for dinner. Just before serving dinner she sits down and relaxes a moment or two. This short rest restores an equilibrium and assists digestion. As laughter is a fine exercise to increase circulation, and, in fact, tone up all the vital fluids, she sees that there is some cause for a merry innocent laugh at the dinner table. Fig. 9— Sweeping Incorrect. 30 Fig. 10— Sweeping Correct. *& TO WOMANLY BEAUTY. When the kitchen is again in order Mrs. Wise lies down with her children for some breathing and relaxing- exercises and the children take their nap. She dresses and then proceeds to her mending and sewing in a sunny, cheerful room. At the sewing machine she sits erect, keeps her chest full and when necessary to lean forward bends at the hips instead of curving the spine. The pedalling then does not strain the pelvic organs but is really a healthful ex- ercise. By singing she strengthens her throat and lungs and breaks the monotony of steady sewing until she feels that her life is "one long, sweet song." After supper her husband and children join her in song because they have learned that "music which hath charms to soothe the savage breast" has a wonderful harmonizing effect over the phy- sical as well as the mental being. Newman says: — "Man can control and. harmon- ize what seems amiss to flow." And although Mrs. Wise has had a day of hard work she has observed nature's law of exercise and rest and has retained a mental and bodily poise all day, hence she is neither tired nor nervous, and now can enjoy the papers and books witli her husband. Before re- tiring she goes through a few exercises which call into play muscles not used much during the day and which enable her the better to relax and go to sleep. Mrs. Wise is plump, graceful and attractive, with a clear complexion, while Mrs. Foolish is thin and Fig. 11— Bitting Incorrect. 76 WOMANL.Y BEAUTS'. But in emphasizing exercise we must never for- get its complement — repose. The one is incomplete without the other, but a judicious amount of both result in a harmony which means health. There is a great deal of truth in the little couplet: — "Joy and temperance and repose Slam the door on the doctor's nose." Have you not noticed how delightful is the pres- ence of a reposeful woman, and what a charming influence she wields? Most of us waste an amount of energy which, if conserved, would enable us to do many useful things we feel unable to do. We rock in rocking- chairs, toy with pencils, or our fingers, and in various ways scatter our nerve force until we have none left for valuable service. With all the members of a family interested in making a successful home gymnasium, who can estimate the good it may do and the happy, whole- some influence outgoing from it. But in striving to gain complete control over our nerves and muscles to make them our strong, will- ing servants that we may accomplish our full destiny on this earth, let us not be impatient but ever bear in mind that "Nature in her productions slow as- pires by just degrees to reach perfection's height." We should be satisfied with a slow, if sure, prog- ress, for as Phillips Brooks says: — "The duty of phy- sical health and the duty of spiritual purity and loftiness are not two duties — they are two parts of one duty, which is the living of the completest life it is possible for man to live." fiealtb ana Beauty. By Chari.es H. Shepard, M. D. A beautiful woman, living in one of our Southern States, recently wrote me to know what she should do to preserve her good looks, saying: — "My skin for the last ten months has shown a decided ten- dency to wrinkle more than my years justify; it is sallow and dry, and the flesh has fallen away under the eyes. My general health is not good, and my physician is bolstering me up on cod liver oil. While old age is perhaps honorable, a sallow, wrinkled complexion at thirty-two- is not desirable. We are not sufficiently advanced here for a Turkish bath, which I very much regret, but can you not tell me what treatment would come nearest to it, to strengthen and tone the skin and arrest any fur- ther wasting if possible? Alas, we cannot replace our complexion as easily as we do our bonnets, so please come to my aid in preserving the only one I shall ever have, by your best knowledge as to the care of the skin." To this T answered: — Dear Madam — In reply to your inquiry, I would say that it is every woman's duty to do all in her power to preserve her good looks. Your complex- ion depends entirely upon the condition of health 7a womanly beauty. which merely shines through the skin. To enjoy health, which is synonymous with a good complex- ion, we must first cleanse and purify the blood, for that is the life current. Even the darkest com- plexioned persons can have a clean, clear skin by careful attention to the laws of health. Good digestion is of the first importance, and can be secured only by a well regulated simple diet. Eat only three times a day of that which your stomach can readily digest, masticating the food thoroughly. I need hardly tell you to avoid what is called richly cooked food, and such things as pickles, pepper, spices, fats, &c, or those salted meats, which are so commonly used in your part of the country; they do not give the best nutri- ment. Rather let your food be of the plainest, simplest kind. Fresh ripe fruits may well hold a prominent place in the dietary. Bear in mind that it is not lU o quantity of food one eats, but simply that which is appropriated to the uses of the sys- tem that does good ; all over that is but a poisonous burden. Drink nothing at meals stronger than weak, black tea — not even that, unless you think some drink necessary. By no means wash the food clown with any liquid. Avoid ccffee as if it were poison. One thing that greatly injures the com- plexion of persons livine in the South is the ex- cessive use of coffee. With the male population the use of tobacco is also an aggravation of this trouble. Never touch wine, beer or tonics of any kind. They are supposed to stimulate the system HEALTH AND BEAUTY. 79 so that it will take a greater amount of nourish- ment, but they give only a fictitious sense of strength that is by no means desirable or reliable; beside this, they hinder the elimination of used up tissue, which is very injurious to the complexion. The reaction from them leaves the system in a worse condition than before their use. Again, never partake of candies, and use but a moderate amount of sugar with your food. To' sum it up, practice moderation in all things at the table. Exercise at least two hours each day in the open air, beside whatever is practicable in doors. Habit- ual outdoor exercise is one of the most effectual means of prolonging life. Begin your exercises very moderately and gradually add to them as your strength increases, and they will soon become a delight. Horseback riding is very desirable. Dance whenever opportunity presents itself, avoid- ing as much as possible dusty and overheated rooms. It is by exercise that the fullest amount of vitalizing power is realized from the food con- sumed, and this produces in each individual cell an energy that promotes the waste products of the tissues and favors their rapid elimination. Try in some way to secure a good sweating bath at least once a week. This can easily be done, if you have a bathtub in your house it will make a fair substitute for a Turkish bath . Have three or four inches of quite warm water in the tub, then sit in it and lave the water over your lower limbs and body, at the same time let the hotter water run WOMANLY BEAUTY. into the tub and as yon can bear it gradually in- crease the temperature with the increasing water. It will not take long to get into a profuse perspira- tion. After that is fully secured, pull out the plug to let the hot water off, and at the same time let the cold water run and just dash a little over the body and then step out, dry well, and you have an improvised Turkish bath. A very good time for this is just before retiring, never immediately after eating. If you have not an ordinary bathtub, what is called a sitz-tub, with a pailful of water at no degrees, and a foot-tub half full of water at the same temperature, will secure the same result. Sit in the one and put the feet in the other, then cover, first with a sheet, and afterward with a blanket, to keep the heat and steam around the body. About fifteen to twenty minutes of this will generally se- cure the desired condition. Then wash off with a little cool water. This is not only a comfortable form of bath, but it has been used with much suc- cess in many forms of disease. The folding ther- mal bath cabinet, which can be used in any room, and can now be obtained at small expense, will make a very good substitute for a Turkish bath. As a sanitary measure it is always well to wash the hands just before meal time, but the face and body need only one good washing each day, except in hot weather, when it might be twice a day. Cos- metics, powders, &c, are in no way desirable. Touch none of the advertised compounds, for often they are very injurious. Only the purest HEALTH AND BEAUTY. 81 of vegetable oils should be used on the face or body. If you could secure the services of a good mas- seuse, it would be of great help to you, particularly if you could have her manipulations immediately after one of these hot baths. What is called face massage is a wonderfully good way of rubbing out wrinkles. Be sure that all the secretive functions of the body are in good order, but never use pur- gatives for that purpose. The use of warm water is a more excellent way. Do not get into the habit of dosing yourself with any kind of drug medica- tion, not even with cod liver oil. Touch nothing of that kind but what your physician says you must take, and tell him to give you as little as possible. Sleep in a cold room, with windows open at night. "Of all things," said a noted actress, "a suf- ficiency of sleep is the one thing most essential to the preservation of beauty." It is during sleep that assimilation is most perfectly carried on, and it is essential, in order ito obtain dreamless, refreshing slumber, that there shall be an intelligent regard to the diet and habits of the body. Those persons whose brains are plethoric with blood are dreamers and strangers to true repose. This is another rea- son why tonics of whatever kind, as well as late suppers, should be avoided. Cultivate noble thoughts, for they serve to mould the countenance. The highest beauty is that of expression, and the cultivation of this re- quires the crushing out of all low motives and pas- 82 WOMANLY BEAUTY. sions. Mental exercise and mental recreation, such as study and reading of good books, will be of great service in this, and give to beauty an endur- ing foundation. Listen to good music when you can, and cultivate your musical talent. Practice self-denial with cheerfulness. Contentment and good humor outrival all medical inventions as a preservative of good looks. Be willing to take pains, knowing that self-sacrifice leads to a higher life, and that virtue is certain to be its own reward. It is pleasing to contemplate the advantages and beauties which are in store for human beings when they shall have been purified by an era of right living. Hoping I have not given you an overlong list of directions, and assuring you that by observing them you will both preserve and enhance your good looks, I remain, Yours sincerely, Chas. H. Shepard, M. D. Brooklyn, N. Y. (We commend the advice given by Dr. Shepard to his correspondent as being of very great im- portance to all who would preserve beauty. He has no sympathy with the idea that beauty can be attained or preserved independent of good health, and this the following of his advice would lead to.) tbe influence of tbougbt Upon Beauty. By Dr. W. R. C. Latson. Beauty of face consists of two elements, form and expression. By form is meant the shape of the features. Form is, in the first place, a matter of heredity. Expression depends upon the individ- ual's mental condition. The shape of the features, although determined in the first place by the parentage, may be radical- ly altered either through the patient's physical condition as regards health or by the habitual ex- pression. Referring to the influence of health on inherited features reminds me of a young woman of thirty, highly cultivated, the daughter of two typical New England people. She bore a close resemblance to her parents. She was slender, inerect and rigid, nervous and under nourished, tier face was thin, drawn and lined, while the forehead and the cor- ners of the eyes and mouth showed numerous fine lines and wrinkles. About a year ago she came under my advice for nervousness and insomnia. The treatment prescribed was entirely hygienic, consisting of proper food, certain baths, medical gymnastics and the encouragement of a more re- laxed mental attitude. Later, facial massage was S4 WOMANLY BEAUTY. prescribed, also a series of special exercises for grace and poise. In one year this young woman gained over thirty pounds in weight and is to-day in prime health. 'Her mental powers have greatly increased, and she possesses a magnetic feminine personality entirely lacking a year ago. The most marked change, however, is in her face. The thin, sallow and deep-lined face of last year has disappeared. The roller massage and the baths have stimulated the skin. The proper diet and active digestion have fed the face with good, rich blood. The relaxation exercises and im- proved mental and physical poise have developed serenity and repose of expression. The entire face has changed owing to the change in the patient's state of health. It is not too much to say that a face, drawn, gaunt, sallow, deep-lined and wrinkled is never natural to any person at any age. Such a face is always a sign of ill-health, and is capable of being radically changed by a proper course of local and general' treatment. No woman is to blame if she is not beautiful at fifteen; but any woman is to blame if she is not beautiful before she reaches forty. Beauty mav sometimes be inherited. It may always be achieved. The shape of the features, then, depends largely upon the state of health. A thin, sallow, wrinkled, prematurely old face will be- come smooth, rosy and rounded through proper care of the face itself, and of the body, of which that face is a part. B 3 86 WOMANLY BEAUTY. But a face may have fine, regular features, per- fect coloring and smooth skin, and yet fall far short of beauty. For beaut.v is more than perfection of form and coloring. Beauty depends largely upon expression, and expression, as we have seen, is the result of the mental state. It is difficult to make women realize that next to health their habitual mental attitude is the most powerful influence to make or to destroy their beauty. I say next to health. Often the mental state is more important than health, for a thought vividly held before the mind will affect the health itself, making the sick woman well and strong or the well woman sick. The woman who realizes the power of her thoughts and feelings upon her health simply WILL not allow worry, vexation or depression to upset her. After a little practice she finds that she NEED not be the slave of her surroundings, that she need not be affected by them. Then she has found the philosopher's stone (which was never a stone, but only a certain mental attitude). Then she has found a power at whose touch the base metals care, trouble, misfortune are changed into the pure gold of spiritual development. Then she enters into her kingdom — woman's kingdom of serene beauty and infinite power. Then she be- comes the mother of all good, as the mother of all life. Thought, then, has a powerful effect not only upon the physical health but upon the expression 88 WOM-aSTLY BEAUTY. of the face. More than this, the nature of the thoughts habitually entertained so impress their distinctive mark upon the features (to say nothing of form, voice, gait and gesture) that to the stu- dent or the highly organized sensitive the character of the individual, his dominant thoughts, his weak- ness, his dangers, are often apparent at a glance. Even people of ordinary intelligence are able to distinguish strongly marked types. \\ ho could fail to distinguish Rousseau and Napoleon, Heine and Bismarck, Air. John L. Sullivan and Ralph Waldo Emerson by their physical charac- teristics? At this point the natural question will arise, What is the connection between thought and ex- pression? For a complete answer to this quest ion those interested are referred to a work which 1 now have in preparation, "The Genesis of Gesture and Expression." For the present only a brief outline can be indicated of the process in virtue of which the mental state determines expression. The face is a mass of muscular fibres covered with the skin. The dissection of the muscular fibres is difficult and unsatisfactory; for, instead of being separate, like muscles in other parts of the body, they are closely interwoven in all directions, sending fibres to the bony framework, to each other and to the skin. Any separation of the mus- cles of the face is apt to be misleading. Into this mass of muscular tissue are inserted the ends of the nerves which cause movement. Activity of these nerves depends either upon thought or upon Showing downward tension of the muscles, producing distor- tion and disfigurement. WOMANLY BEAUTY. a special act of will. Now, each thought or emo- tion sends its own particular message to the mus- cles, resulting in a distinctive expression corre- sponding to each thought. This thought message to the muscles— this, that we call expression— cannot by any possibility be entirely controlled. For instance, the person of intense will, every time he wills to do anything, sends out uncon- sciously and involuntarily a message to certain muscles of the face. The muscles under the stimulus of the nervous telegraphic impulse, pull the features into the expression corre- sponding to volition — an expression familiar to all. Through constant repetition of this message the features in time become set in that pose, and the face settles into an expression of decision and character. Then the face, which be- fore was plain and uninteresting, becomes marked by magnetic power and charm— the face which was merely pretty becomes radiant with feminine dig- nity and appeal. If the pose of the features is habitually extreme, whether the expression in itself be pleasant or oth- erwise, the features will be displaced to so great a degree that lines will be formed. There are lines of laughter as well as of worry, lines of jollity as well as of sadness. A little attention to the pose of the features, avoiding any extreme expression, either wide mouthed laughter or grim sadness, will prevent the formation of wrinkles and lines; or, if already present, will do much toward their eradica- tion. Fig. 6. EausMer. Showing lines produced by excessive mirth. 92 WOMANLY BEAUTY. The question of the connection between thought and emotion and specific muscular activities opens an interesting field of inquiry; but one which can now only be touched upon. The origin and growth of expression lie deep in the history of those rudi- mentary, sub-human animals preceding man. To close the jaws and move the head from side to side was their natural mode of refusing a proffered ar- ticle. With them it meant refusal. With their human prototype it means, refusal, negation. To bend the head forward, reaching the desired some- thing, was associated in their minds with accept- ance". To us it means acceptance, acquiescence. To lower and thrust out the jaw meant with them a threat. With us a corresponding gesture means — anger, menace. To set the muscles of the brow and jaw means with the lower animals determina- tion.' resistance. With us the same gesture means the same thing. So, in this manner, a connection has been created between mental state and muscular activ- ity of face and body. There are occasions when by carefully controlling the features this muscular ac- tivity can be so concealed as to deceive an ordinarv observer: but such control could not by any possi- bility be long maintained. Even when practised it will deceive only the untrained. To him who understands the relation between thought and fea- ture the face is like an open page— something like a page of Greek which can be read only by him whoi knows the characters. « 5 c^ S, 3 r* 04 WOMANLY BEAUTY. Not only, however, does thought produce its distinctive expression in the face. It produces an actual change in the form of the face. Muscular action always causes an increased flow of blood to the muscle exercised. The increased flow of blood means an increase in the size of the muscle. Now, bones as well as muscles are provided with nerves and blood vessels, and any increase in the size of the muscles is accompanied by an increase in the size of the bone to which those muscles are at- tached. Applying this principle to the face we find that expression consists simply of the action of certain muscles which are frequently or habitual- ly in use. This means that the muscles so used will receive a larger supply of blood; and that, therefore, they and the bony parts to which they are attached will outgrow other parts of the face. Thus the face gradually changes its form, corre- sponding always to the habitual mental state. So much for the physiology of expression. I cannot hope in those few words to have made the matter clear, but possibly enough has been said to demonstrate that there is a scientific basis for the assertion that the habitual mental state is a most powerful influence in promoting or destroying beautv. To think well is to live well. To think well is to be well. To think well is to look well. But this is all general, and my article would be incomplete if I did not give a few hints as to the prevention and eradication of those faults of fea- ture due directlv to bad thinking. r^%^ WOMANLY BEAUTY. The greatest beautifier is not Mother Pinkham's Favorite Remedy or Professor Killum's Dead Shot Arsenic Tablets. All nostrums and cosmetics are at least injurious. Many of them are deadly. Their use is always inadvisable. The greatest beautifier is love — love that embraces all the world in its SCO pe — love that includes kindness, thoughtful- ness, forgiveness, peace, good wishes toward every living thing. First and foremost as a beautifier comes love. And then those other sister senti- ments—hopefulness and trust. The mind which loves and trusts and hopes sends no messages of evil import to the face. The drawn, sallow, hard and deep-lined face of her who learns to love and trust and hope gradually softens and relaxes, gains smoothness and contour and feminine charm. While love and allied sentiments are powerful influences in beautifying the face and removing in- harmonious lines and wrinkles, sentiments of an opposite nature are no less potent in destroying beauty. Yielding to a spirit of worry, dislike, grief or remorse will in a few months implant on the face disfiguring lineaments which can be removed only by months of careful treatment. Those wo- men who would retain the contour and smooth- ness of youth should carefully train the mind to habits of serenity, kindliness, trust and hope, and should sedulously avoid the opposite emotions of care, worry, anxiety, anger and irritability. But for those women who, through ignorance or heedlessness, have allowed their faces to become i & o gs WOMANLY BEAUTY. prematurely aged, sallow, thin and drawn, disfig- ured by deep lines and wrinkles of thought, care, anxiety or irritability — can such disfigurement be remedied? If so, how? To the first of these queries I answer, without hesitation, "Yes; such a face can in a few months be so altered as to be scarcely re- cognizable. I see many faces which, under a few weeks of proper treatment, could be mad_e to look ten years younger. Youthfulness of face (and also of figure and movement) can be regained by prop- er treatment." And what's the treatment? As to treatment, so much depends upon the peculiar tem- perament and habits of the patient that only the most general directions can be given. The treat- ment may be embodied in two words, proper living and proper thinking; but each patient will need special prescription as to what is for her proper liv- ing and proper thinking. To those who realize that beauty of face (as of form and movement) is an achievement as well as a gift — to those who 'are willing to pay the price in thought and effort to regain beauty — the fol- lowing hints will be serviceable: — In the first place, remember that the face is but an index of the general health, physical and men- tal. Resolve, then, to live healthfully. If prac- ticable place yourself under the advice of some reputable hygienic physician whose prescribed course of diet, exercise, massage and bathings you are prepared to follow strictly. Two meals daily of simple, nourishing food, proper baths, much free exercise in the open air and perhaps general mas- THE INFLUENCE OE THOUGHT. 99 sage will be found beneficial. Unless inclined to obesity drink freely of pure water on rising, on re- tiring and between meals. So much for general treatment. As regards the face itself, local treat- ment is important, but here again it is difficult to give directions applicable to all cases. The use of the facial massage roller, the flesh brush and of a good cold cream or skin food will generally be found beneficial. For facial defects, such as drooping lips or eyelids, drawn, one-sided features and so on, a system of special exercises has been devised, the effect of which is often remark- able. But the most important factor of all in beauty as in health is the mental attitude. If you would be beautiful, avoid all thoughts of evil, all unkindli- ness, all malice, all worry, dislike and irritability. Realize that every moment of such thought is an added line in the face (as it is an added drain upon the vital forces). Learn a broad tolerance of sin and weakness, a general love for all humankind — realize that no one can injure you but yourself — take this mental attitude and try to maintain it at all times. You will not wholly succeed; but — you will not wholly fail. And then as day after day you make the same effort to live upon the higher plane the tense face and body relax; the lines and contours of the face and the movements of the body soften and relax; and so gradually, helped by the general hygienic life and the local attention, the face changes. LofC. 100 WOMANLY BEAUTY. Nor is this all. The face is like the title page of a book. It reveals the contents. Beauty is not skin deep. In fact, it is everything else but skin deep. Beauty is an effect, and cannot be consid- ered apart from its causes. Those causes lie deep within the personality of the individual — her hab- its of eating, drinking, sleeping, working, recrea- ti 0)n — more than all, because determining all these — her thought life. Only by proper thinking on all subjects — health, conduct of life, relation to infinity— can woman attain to the highest health and the truest beauty. For beauty is but the index of health, and the state of health 'is primarily determined by the mental habits. H Photographer's Opinion, In a recent conversation with Mr. Rockwood, who has photographed probably more and better specimens of physical beauty than any other man living, he said: "The so-called beautiful woman is rarely beautiful, so far as form and features are con- cerned when compared with classic models. A woman may have a pleasant personality, a sweet expression/ a pretty skin and eyes or hair and a lovely character which produces the effect of a beautiful impression on the minds of her friends. She acquires a reputation for beauty when every feature is slightly out of proportion, or when some features are positively ugly. All this comes out in a oicture, and people instantly criticise the artist. WOMANLY BEAUTY. 101 It is a well-known sentiment among the painters and sculptors that they dread having the woman whose friends all consider her beautiful as the sub- ject of their skill; for they know that all will expect a reproduction of their impression of the woman and not of the woman herself. So mature beauty is often temperamental and not physical. "It is not only among the more-fortune-favored people that the beautiful types are seen, for though the careful attention paid to diet and exercise, the exquisite care and the becoming and dainty attire have a tendency to enhance the charms of a woman, still genuine beauties are found in the narrow streets and dingy tenements. The average of re- ally beautiful types is said to be greater among the hillsides of Ireland and Italy than it would be among people from more prosperous surroundings, while one of a famous artist's exquisite heads is a reproduction of the face of a peasant girl in a char- ity school, and it is not nearly so beautiful as the original." Facial Massage, facial massage —Tor tfte Prevention of UJrinto le$ ana Jlge in tbe faoe. By Er,i,A Van Pooi^ During the past few years much, recogni- tion has been given to the value of massage as a preserver and re- storer of facial color and contour, and many [and contradictory are the rules of the author- ities laid down for its practice, Enthusiasts upon the subject ride their hobby through the length and breadth of the face, meet- ing at cross sections of the muscles and nerves, and pass with- out speaking, each being so sure of his or her own route being the right one. To those who are seekers after truth upon this subject, I will endeavor to make plain why certain movements and methods are necessary to good results in thus exercising the face. In woman, the entire countenance is more rounded than in man. Beauty of contour presents a perfect curve of cheek, and the chin and jaw 104 WOMANLY BEAUTY. should be delicately rounded. This is in keeping with the law of sex. "A man for strength, and a woman for grace," and the rule permits no sharp- ness or angularity of feature in woman to be con- sidered anything but abnormal. We will consider the bones of the face as the foundation for muscular or fatty tissue, which gives the desired contour. The bone is a frame in which the possibility of change or moderation is less than other formations which go toward making up the human body, and it is the scat of inherited likeness. In childhood, when the animal predominates over the mineral matter of the bones, much may be done in chang- ing the features by proper pressure and massage. With the added years we must depend for change in the face upon massage of the tissues, and the cul- tivation of a good mind. Being well aware that physiology and anatomy are dry reading, I will call attention to the accompanying cut of exposed muscles of the face, and describe only those which are most prominently concerned in presenting con- tour. Through the agency of the nerves, the mus- cles are capable of contraction, and are the volun- tary or involuntary signs of emotion. Without nerve strength the muscle would be but an inert piece of solid tissue, and without the blood con- stantly providing nourishment for its continued power to act, its power would be short lived. When a muscle is exercised a portion of its con- stituents are consumed, chemical and vital changes begin, and it is necessary for new ones to take their Muscles <_f the Face 105 106 WOMANLY BEAUTY. place. These new particles are derived from the blood; let this life giving fluid become poor or slug- gish and weakness and decay is the result. The object of massage is to stimulate the tissues to throw off worn out particles and receive new strength from active circulation of the blood. Facial massage is but a form of exercise for the face. Inactivity of any muscle means that the part so neglected will become weak and lacking in healthy development. Neglect of facial muscles will produce thin, soft, debilitated and sagging flesh of face. In describing certain muscles which are most formative of feature, I will first mention the oc- cipito frontalis, which arises in a web of fibers at the base of the skull, and descends over the fore- head, where it fills the office of raising or arching the eyebrow. The forehead distinctively belongs to the human face. The width, breadth and smoothness of this page, each reveals characteristic personality. It also speaks, and the eyebrow is its interpreter. Habitual expression of inquiry here is to blame for permanent lines across this page. The orbicularis palpebrarum is another muscle whose office — or the stronger portion of it — is to draw down the eye- brow, and it thus exhibits its work in what we speak of as a frown. A permanency of this expres- sion is not in keeping with a happy nature, and is one of the least desired lines. The muscles of the eye fit about in a sheath like manner, one control- Muscle i of Neck and 10 g WOMANLY BEAUTY. ling the upward turn of the eyeball; another the downward, etc., and owing to its spherical struc- ture the eyeball should never receive a form of massage which tends to flatten it. A very im- portant muscle, viewed from the standpoint of beauty and expression, is the sphincter muscle of the mouth. The mouth is the centre of expression, and it is here that the greatest number of muscles connected with expression are concentrated. When age, or long continued illness, or grief, or mental strain, begin to tell their story in the face, the mouth is the first point to yield. One of the first lessons in facial expression is control of the circular muscle which surrounds the mouth. Too thick loose lips, or too thin tight lips, can be moder- ated in their appearance by control of this muscle. Lips which seem dry and drawn and devoid of firm- ness, can be restored by strengthening this muscle. Two more muscles controlling the mouth are called the levator labii proprius, and the levator anguli oris. The one raises the upper lip, and the other the angle of the mouth. A weakening of the latter will cause the corners of the mouth to fall, and give the entire face a look of sadness or de- jection. Long after the conditions are past which caused this droop to the corners of the mouth, the droop remains, the habit of expression becoming a permanency. The first line to mar the face is the line from the inner corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth. It is easier to preserve than to re- store, but the latter can be done in any face where there is sufficient strength of nutritive system. . [FACIAL MASSAGE.; 100 The" first effort in this direction should be to re- move the causes which have led to this weakness of muscle and failing tissue. The next move should be to take up a course of health giving rules and follow them. Eliminate the clogged waste ma- terial from the system, eat nourishing foods, take all the fresh air possible, exercise, bathe and rest. Dr Forest's Facial Massage Roller. Patented. Then exercise the face with Dr. Forrest's Facial Massage Roller. This little instrument is made of ebony and ivory, with soft rubber wheels, which roll in an even pressure upon the tissues, bringing the glow of life to the flesh with every turn. The advantage of this form of massage over that of the fingers is shown in our illustrations, but I will try to make the difference still more plain. When one attempts to rub the face the strength of the effort is expended upon the skin, and it will be dragged and pulled about according to its weak- ness and flabbiness. When the face is firm and plump the skin is closely adherent to the tissues below, and greater benefit may be obtained by massagfe with the hands than where the skin is HO WOMANLY BEAUTY. loose and lifeless. Very thorough massage with the hands, without an understanding of the muscular formation, sometimes results in more harm than good. The roller presses upon but a small portion at a time; when the fingers move they push or drag the skin; when the roller moves it rolls smoothly over firm or loose flesh the same. The most skillful mas- suer cannot get so even a pressure with the fingers as she can with the roller. The latter will descend to the deepest and most obscure muscle, bringing life to the same, without dragging other parts of the face with it. The benefits of the roller are not confined to the improvement of the appearance. The efforts which induce an added blood supply to furnish nutrition to the parts, also contribute to the strength and vigor of the nerves. Much of the tired expression in some faces is the story of starved nerves. Many weak eyes take on a new strength from the use of the roller on the adjoining parts of the face. Many cases of chronic neuraligia could be cured by this method of feeding the nerves. Headaches which are caused by over study or brain work can be cured in twenty minutes by rolling the head — over the top, down over cord at side of neck. Women should tie a handkerchief over the head to avoid tansrlins: the hair. Effect of Hand Massage. 112 WOMANLY BEAUTY. DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE FACIAL MASSAGE ROLLER It is important that the face be thoroughly clean before massaging and, if necessary, it should be well washed, using a soft brush or Turkish towelling- cloth with warm water and a pure soap, always fol- ■ lowing with a thorough bathing in cold water, as this overcomes the relaxation of the hot water and stimulates the capillary circulation. It should always be applied with a firm and steady pressure and rather a vigorous movement. For lines across the forehead roll up and down; for lines arising perpendicularly from bridge of nose roll across, and right here let me advise you to cease the contraction of muscle that causes those lines Many present the habitual expression of sur- prise or continual frown, and are unconscious of it. Do not try to overcome a condition, continuing a practice which causes it. _ To strengthen the muscles governing the mouth close the lips, roll across and up and down. Roll upward from the corner of the mouth toward the top of ear, and from the nose outward toward the ear. Roll the outward corner of the eye up and down across the wrinkles. Press the roller close to the outer corner at base of nose and roll well back and forth with a short, digging motion. This motion may serve effec- tively in much of the work with the roller; a little practice will soon prove the best movement with it. MASSAGE FOR THE FACE. 113 Ill WOMANLY BEAUTY. Roll well over the cheek bone, outwardly and upward over side of the face in front of the ear. Roll well with upward movement over the angle of the mouth from the sides of the chin. Remember there should never be a downward movement over the cheek. Roll the Neck— the left side with the right hand, and the right side with the left hand. (These rules are given for self treatment.) The lines on the side of the neck will respond rapidly to the war waged upon them, but a thin, scrawny neck requires much patience. For double chin (and this is not always caused by excessive fat, but rather by relaxed muscle) hold the roller as in illustration— rolling back and forth, and o-ive regular, systematic rolling from five to ten minutes morning and night, and results will soon appear, as this particular fault is not slow to remedy. For the lines and sagging under the eye.— Only the gentlest massage should be given about this delicate organ. The safest treatment is applied by the cushion of the forefinger. Rub under the eye, toward the nose, all rules to the contrary notwith- standing; then very gently, and over the eyeball outwardly in the same direction the eyebrow grows. This encircling of the eyeball a few times with the finger will strengthen the muscles, but as the sagging and fine lines under the eye often betray some internal derangement or weakness of visionary nerves, one must not expect too much from massage of this part. Add to the practice of MASSAGE FOR THE FACE- US WOMANLY BEAUTY. these rules, regularity and perseverance, and your results will be entirely satisfying. In many cases an external treatment in the shape cf skin food, or cream, or in eruptions, a healing balm, is advisable, in connection with the roller. Such' should be applied after the rolling of the face. The benefit of any external food or lotion is gauged by its proper absorption by the tissues. The hot blood brought to the surface by the use of the roller literally takes up the preparation applied, and feeds, or cures, bv being promptly carried into the flesh. Manv ladies could testify to the ill effects of greasy compounds, which, when applied to the skin, remained on the surface. Such treatment is but a waste of time. Study the law of absorption by in- creased circulation, and then be sure that your remedial preparations are fine in their nature and pure in their manufacture. The use of a good powder is at times advisable. It serves as a protec- tion, as when the face is to be exposed to the wind and dust, and prevents the pores from filling with worse matter; but be sure it is not composed of poisons. FOR TREATMENT OF THE NECK, WHEN ABUSED BY HIGH TIGHT COLLARS. Because of one of fashion's stamps, a round, per- fect neck is the exception and not the rule. Begin to restore the beauty of the neck by insisting upon a more soft neck dressing. Wear the throat of your gowns open, when indoors; give the neck a chance to improve. Then give it thorough treat- MASSAGE FOR THE NECK. 117 118 WOMANLY BEAUTY. ment every night — and always give the neck the benefit of the same attention as the face — and at the same time. Begin this improvement of the neck by washing well with plenty of soap and warm water. Rinse in cold water, dry on soft towel and roll lightly, but evenly, around the neck with the Facial Roller — the right side with the left hand, and vice versa — for ten minutes. The exercise of drop- ping the head slowly forward, as far as it will go, then back as far as it will go, then allowing it to roll around limp, first to the right and then to the left, is a great help in developing the neck that seems to have suffered from imprisonment. Then, as a last course, bathe again in warm water and rub in a good skin food, as an external nourishment to the starved tissues. This treatment, persisted in for a month, will prove its benefits, though a loneer time may be necessary to restore bad cases. Cbe pair- Tt$ Care and Culture, By Albert Turner. Nature intends that the head of each member of the human family should be covered with hair, which affords protection from the changes in tem- perature, is also an adornment, and people should not become bald even in advanced years if the gen- eral health is well maintained. A fine head of hair is always to be admired in man, woman or child, and we are justified in efforts to secure and retain it. We do not inherit bald heads, but do inherit a tendency to have good, strong hair or poor and weak hair; but all have hair to start with, and much of its character and continuance must depend upon the care that is given to it. Now, hair itself does not primarily become dis- eased, but its failure is due to conditions, in which it is not properly nourished and so becomes lifeless, loses its vitality, changes color, is weakened at the roots and falls out. There are various causes for this, as diseases which lessen the general vitality of the system, nervous troubles and local causes affecting the healthfulness and the vigor of the scalp. To secure and retain a good head of hair the body should be well nourished and kept in a healthful condition and mental strain and causes of nervous- ,20 WOMANLY BEAUTY. ness should be avoided as much as possible. The scalp should be kept clean and remain loose over the skull, not adhering to it. It is often asked why it is that men become bald and women as a general rule do not, and various answers have been given. We believe there are good phvsiological reasons for this. The hair is nourished and fed by the circulation of the blood through the scalp; it is necessary that this should be properlv maintained to promote a good condi- tion of the hair, and whatever interferes with it should be avoided. Have a string drawn moder- ately tight about the finger or arm and it would soon suffer from the want of a good circulation of the blood, and if continued long the part would wither and become shrunken. This is what hap- pens to the scalp when a close fitting, heavy hat is worn, for it is as though a hand were tied tightly about the head; it seriously interferes with the cir- culation of the blood through the scalp, thus affect- ing the nourishment of the scalp and the hair. Women do not wear close fitting head coverings and so escape these conditions. Another and very important reason why women do not lose their hair and become bald is because they wear it long, as is the custom with women and not with men. The roots of the hair need to be exercised to give them strength and the scalp exercised to keep it elastic and loose, not adhering to the skull. A tree grown in the open is strong rooted and is 4 » 3' P 71? I g s 5 ?3 m 12 3 WOMANLY BEAUTY. seldom upturned, while one in the dense forest soon perishes when this protection is removed, t A woman's hair is so exercised in dressing, and the pulling keeps the scalp loose, as a man's cannot be, and so there is with them more of health and vigor in the hair and scalp. It is believed if women were to cut their hair as many men do, and were to wear tight fitting head coverings, as men do, in a short time as many would become bald as there are of men. f . Women also have an advantage, as the head is exposed to the air and so the skin is kept more healthy and vigorous. Men should wear light hats, and as little as pos- sible, changing their position frequently when out, so as to relieve the pressure and admit the airland if the hair seems weak do not cut it close, as is so often done, but let it grow longer and pull it daily, so as to strengthen the roots and invigorate the scalp. The hair that comes out in this way will be shed any way, and the sooner it is out the better for the new hair that will take its place. To promote a healthy condition of the hair, pre- venting baldness and premature grayness, it is seen to be necessary to preserve a good circulation of the life forces of the hair and call for their use and as- similation. For this nothing is equal to massage, which is as healthful here as for other parts of the body. For the very best results one of Dr. For- est's "Scalp Massage Rollers" should be used. The Rollers, or wheels, which turn separately, are cov- ered with an elastic rubber band or tire, and with Sweat-Qlandf A.NATOMY OF THE SKIN. A Magnified Section, showing the Hair and how it is Nourished WOMANLY BEAUTY. it there is an even alternating pressure brought to bear on every part of the scalp and the circulation is exhilarated through it down to the very skull it- self. The blood, with its lifegiving power, is brought to the part and the skin and hair are fed with that which is needed. In using the Scalp Massage Roller, if the head is bald or the hair is very short, bathe the scalp in cold water, rubbing so as to bring the blood to the surface, drying with a coarse towel, then roll thoroughly and firmly in every direction, reaching all parts of the head and down over the neck, finishing with a downward movement to empty the veins if too much blood uuy have been drawn to them, otherwise there might be a tendency to headache following the treatment. Ladies and men whose hair is not very short should put a towel or large handkerchief over the head to prevent the hair becoming tangled in the rollers. The treatment should be continued daily from five to ten minutes, or until there is a thorough circulation of the blood established. Dr. E. W. Brook, of Philadelphia, says of the massage treatment:— "It promotes hair growth, excites the action of the hair cells and prevents ab- sorption of the fatty and muscular layers forming the scalp and arrests atrophy of the hair bulbs, and, by increasing the circulation, prevents the hair from turning gray." The following bears valuabh evidence as to its value in the treatment of the scalp and hair: Gentlemen.— It may interest you to know that I have .used Dr. Forest's Scalp Massage Roller in my practice, and find it MASSAGE OF THE) SCAI^P. 126 WOMANLY BEAUTY. a valuable aid in re-establishing blood circulation in the ca- pillaris of the scalp. It is of great benefit in general debil- ity and deficient nutrition, or where there is a tendency to hair loss. It never tires and never wears out. Mine has been used daily for some time, and seems none the worse for W ear. J- J. KROM, Scalp and Hair Specialist. Atlanta, Ga. Madame Van Poole, who has made a study of the care of the hair, says: Whatever treatment or application is adopted for the cultivation of the hair, its effects will be limited unless the scalp be prepared by properly cleansing it, and massaging to bring the blood into a more active circulation. Poor hair is starved hair; it should be fed by arousing the circu- lation. In my practice I use and advise Dr. forest's Scalp Massage Boiler for this purpose. ELLA VAJN PUUl^. When the general circulation is poor the roller treatment may be extended over the arms and also over the entire body to good advantage. Of course the scalp should be kept clean by bathing as often as it is necessary, using a good soap, with tepid or warm water, rinsing thor- oughly with cool or cold water, drying the sca^ and hair, after which the Ivlassage Roller should be used. The use of the Roller will afford relief for neuralgia and nervous headache and should be .a part of every toilet outfit as much as combs and brushes, Bust Development If we consider the subject of physical beauty in woman, that of curve or contour of form is, per- haps, the most distinctive feature Since Aryan civilization much importance has been attached to this peculiarity of sex feature. Aro.cn g' the Greeks and Romans well propor- tioned and well rounded bodies were the rule, and as a means to an end — their habits and general practice of exercise and deep breathing-, together with recognition of the importance of physical cul- tivation, might well be imitated. Wherever we find much outdoor living there we find little need of more bust development in women. The peasant who labors in the fields, born and reared with no idea of any ultimate position in life but that of motherhood, is generally en- dowed in this respect, while her sister — woman of ease, spending her growing years in school rooms and fashionable society, is often lacking in this most perfect sign of perfect womanhood. Health of the body, generally, is the best groundwork for development of this part of the physique. The prime cause of non-development in the early years of maturity is some derangement of function. The 128 WOMANLY BEAUTY. nerves controlling the mammary glands Claim the same centre as those of the pelvic organs. Weak- ness of nerves or muscle in one is indicative oi the same in the other. The strength or health of the pelvic organs during the years of approaching womanhood give their sign in good development of bust. Another cause for this seeming economy of nature, is a habit some mothers of girls have of making their clothing tight over the bust. Seme do this through carelessness, or indifference, but many do so to conceal a too pronounced figure while a girl is still in short dresses. Could they but know the harm this does; not in arresting develop- ment alone, but in its pressure upon the very sen- sitive nerves so potent in woman's health, there would be a great change in the dressing of many. There should be absolute freedom in a growing girl ? s dress, and especially through the chest, bust and lower lungs to insure a good normal figure and promote healthful womanhood. To those who would remedy this lack of propor- tion we will offer the best system ever found. J'he day of secrecy regarding remedies is en the wane. Common sense demands the why and wherefore of any claim of restorative power. The woman who as a result of nursing her child, or from im- proper care and neglect, would develop this qual- ity known as bust measure, may do so by following these suggestions, for at least three months: — Be sure that the digestive organs are in good working order— that the bowels move every day. Massage for Bust Development. 129 130 WOMANLY BEAUTY. Do not try to secure this by taking drugs, but by a proper regulation of your diet and the use of massage. Then take this exercise which moves the entire body about the hips. Every morning upon rising raise the arms slowly above the head' until the fingers touch. Drop them as slowly. Re- peat this twenty times. Stand at an open window 1 and take twenty long breaths. Raise the chest and always keep a proper poise of body, whether sitting or standing. . At night before retiring bathe the breasts lightly with cold water, dry carefully with a soft towel, and over a loose sack or undervest roll with Dr. Forest's. Bust Developer from underneath upwards and from the side forward, always toward the cen- tre, throwing the chest well out while doing this; do not do it carelessly or indifferently, but keep your mind on it and feel that yc&fare accomplish- ing your desire. When the breasts have become warm and in a glow, bathe in warm water arid rub in thoroughly the Health Culture Skin Fcod, which is absolutely pure, containing no animal fats, and the best Bust Food made. This will be absorbed and feed the tissues. In the morning on rising repeat the -rolling treatment, but omit the warm bathing and the Skin Food. Do this faithfully and care- fully and improvement will show itself in a week or ten days. The Dr. Forrest Bust Developer used regularlv and systematically is the greatest assist- ant obtainable in this work. Its action arouses the blood vessels which are dormant, and stimulates BtTST DEVELOPMENT. 131 circulation, and where blood abounds life will abound. The warm pulsating currents of blood will feed and fill the tissues, and plump contour is the result. Then discard tight undergarments, do not wear the tight fitting undervests, do not wear pads that heat and press down the breasts, insist upon a loose lining in gowns over the bust, and abandon the senseless thing called a "corset cover," which has ruined more forms of women than any other article of dress and has clone no good. These di- rections, intelligently understood and applied, will surely result in development and increase of the bust measurement. In some cases other parts of the body may be well developed, but the breasts thin. This treat- ment, which is physiological and hygienic, will overcome this, by attracting the nutrition where it is needed and so restore and build up these parts. Remember, this is not something to be "taken," which never succeeds, but something to be done, and in doing it disappointment will not follow. Care of the Rands and the feet. BY STELLA STUART. Hands show the ravages of time and ill usage quite as much as the face. Between sixteen and twenty years of age they manifest their greatest beauty of texture, color and contour. For a few years no perceptible change occurs. After thirty, however, the tissues incline to become attenuated and, unless special care is given them, their beauty wanes. In these days of physical rejuvenescence, no disparity in the appearance of the face and hands should be permitted. Exclaimed Patti, "I have a young face, but old hands!" The hands are amen- able to similar methods of treatment as the face, and should receive equal care. Red Hands- — -Any article of apparel which im- pedes circulation, such as tight corsets, close sleeves or small gloves, will distend the veins of the hand and give them a red and puffy appearance. The cause should first be removed. If this does not remedy the difficulty, hold the hands up as often as possible, instead of allowing them to hang down, and treat them with a "massage roller" gently over the engorged veins upward toward the elbow. How to Wash the Hands — All hands connot be artistically beautiful, but a well kept hand, what- 134 WOMANLY BEAUTY. ever its size or shape, possesses undeniable attrac- tiveness. Imperfect rinsing and careless drying upon a harsh, unabsorbent towel are frequent causes of roughness and chapping, especially in cold weather. Before washing remove all stains with lemon juice or a bit of pumice stone. Wash in warm water, using a pure, non-irritating soap, and a broad, soft nail brush to thoroughly cleanse the pores of accu- mulated dust. Rinse in tepid water and again in cooler water and dry thoroughly upon a soft towel. Now apply freely "Sofhanda Cream," and rub the hands together, one oyer the other, for several minutes, until it is thoroughly absorbed. This will keep the hands soft, white and flexible in spite of domestic duties. The secret of well-kept hands is not idleness, but thorough washing, careful dry- ing and frequent inunctions with some good emol- lient like Sofhanda Cream. To Exercise the Hands. — The hands grow stiff and ungainly, like any other part of the body, with- out exercise. How quickly the fingers of the pian- ist lose their suppleness if daily piano practice is suspended for a while. As age creeps on. the hands become unfitted fcr delicate tasks unless flexibility of the muscles is preserved. Dr. Forest's massage roller is an invaluable ally in retaining manual dexterity. It should be rolled crosswise over the fingers and backs of the hands until they are warm and in a glow. The quickened circulation will stimulate and feed the CARE OP THE FEET. B5 tissues -which coyer the bones and tend to retain the beauty, contour and suppleness of the hands in- definitely. Sofhanda Cream used, as an . emollient after the roller treatment will show most gratifying results. THE "FEET. The foot.is the foundation of the entire body. If this substructure is cramped, distorted, weak and insecure, how can the superstructure maintain equilibrium? A noble, graceful yearriage is almost impossible with the conventional modern shoe. Or- dinary footgear is modelled with' a total disregard of anatomical outlines, and the soft, tortured flesh is made to conform to these rigid, artificial lines. In the natural foot the great toe is emite sepa- rated from the others. A straight line drawn from the centre of the heel should pass'idirectly through the middle of, the large toe. Crowded and over- lapped by the false curve imparted to the inner line of the foot by improperly constructed shoes, the great toe deflects far from nature's, line, the joint is thrown out of place and permanent disfigurement and often a painful bunion is the result. An artist will tell you that a womanVperiect foot is indeed a rara avis. It is said that when the peacock catches sight of his. ugly feet, abashed he drops his gorgeous tail. That brilliant fowl is not the only biped that fails to take pleasure in gazing at his pedal extremities. Gauged bv our vaunted civiliza- tion,; we are not so very far behind the Chinese in foot compression, J{ Prize Toot Frjm a photograph of the foot of Miss Carrie A. Ellis, who took the prize of a pair of gem- studded " I'rilby" slippers, and the judges examined the feet of U0-*u,men before they awarded it. WOMANLY BEAUTY. The Anatomy of the Foot.— The human foot is most delicately and beautifully constructed, and is far removed from the distorted, calloused and un- attractive object man's ignorance and stupidity have evolved. The twenty-six bones of the foot are peculiarly adapted to give elasticity and light- ness in walking by the manner in which they ar- ticulate with each other. The arch of the foot is a wonderful piece of construction when we take into consideration the weight it supports. The elastic- ity of the ball of the foot is intended to aid in sup- port of the body and also to prevent a jar to the spine when leaping or running. In a well poised body a line drawn from the mid- dle of the top of the head should pass through the ball of the foot. In a narrow shoe the weight cari- not be thrown forward without pain or, at least, discomfort, and a womanls forced to walk flat foot- ed to ease her cramped toes, coming down upon her heels with a jar at every step, as inelegant as it is unhvgienic. The Foot Bath.— The night foot bath is both salutarv and soothing. The largest pores of the body are in the soles of the feet, and while it may not be generallv known, it is an absolute fact that well kept feet are potent aids to a clear complexion, j Rest the feet in quite warm water, in which com- ' mon soda has been dissolved, for five or ten min- utes. Rinse in cooler water and dry them with brisk friction upon a soft towel. Anoint with Sofhanda Cream and rub it well into every part of CARE OF THE FEET. 139 them. This will relieve the tired, burning sen- sation consequent upon shoe pressure and soften calloused spots, as well as greatly relieve, if not per- manently cure, corns and bunions. Distorted great toe joints are the outcome of too short shoes. Hold the joint in place and rub gently with Sof- handa Cream. Wear a bit of cotton or a piece of feltj between the large toe and the next, and shun narrow toed shoes. Foot Massage. — For tired, aching, cramped feel for cold extremities, or all pedal ills in fact, massage is the sovereign remedy. An expensive masseuse is unnecessary. Dr. Forest's roller is effective in any hands and should invariably fol- low the nightly foot bath. Roll downward toward the' toes, over the instep and sides of the feet and crosswise upon the sole. The roller treatment should precede the anointing with Sofhanda Cream. No treatment devised can rest aching feet, quiet irritable nerves and overcome insomnia more quickly than this simple, nightly course which con- sumes so few minutes and brings such large re- wards of rest, refreshment and vigor for the com- ing day. 140 exercising for Grace ana Poise. The woman with a symmetrical, well formed body, with fine classical features, clear complexion, bright eyes, good hair, well formed hands and feet will still be wanting in a great essential if she has not grace and suppleness in poise and movements, whether walking, working, dancing or even sitting still; this means more than is often supposed and is a feature that has been much neglected by many. To secure this there must be not only strength but elasticity of muscle by which the body will be brought into and kept in proper position as related to itself. Nearly every one while standing will lean against a table, chair or wall if there is a chance to do so or will stand mostly on one foot and "all let down" as it were,and when sitting will slide forward in the seat and lean with the shoulders against the back of the chair or all doubled down in a heap, cramping the internal organs, the heart, liver, lungs, &c, until the whole system is out of joint, as it were, and becoming more and more flabby. Of course there must be correct poise or carriage of the body, which must not be allowed to assume im- proper positions, becoming "lopped over," as it were, in any way, but must be kept erect, whether standing or sitting, never assuming an attitude that is not graceful. The breathing must be proper, the system must be well nourished that there may be the basis for strength, and when all this is done For Developing the Chest and Back. 142 For Strengthening the Muscles of the Trunk. 144 WOMANLY BEAUTY. there must be exercise of the right kind; walking and working are good in their way, but not enough, for not nearly all the muscles are brought into pray. By exercise we do not mean the developing of biceps and big muscles, but that which gives sup- pleness, strength and symmetry to every muscle; especially must there be strength in muscles of the trunk, the waist, the abdomen and the back, giving power to hold the body in poise. For this much can be done by what are known as the Delsarte Movements without apparatus and by bending and twisting the body, but it is found that some simple apparatus is very useful, and the Home Exerciser is to be recommended. This has no weights and oc- cupies no room; it is attached to the window or floor casing and out of sight, and is not only useful, but it offers something to work with and so is an incentive to take up the. exercises at stated times. The illustrations show only two of many forms of exercise that can and should be taken with this ap- paratus. The first is admirable for developing the lungs and filling out the chest as well as strengthen- ingthe muscles of the arms and the back, the sec- ond shows a form of exercise for strengthening the muscles of the trunk, which gives power to bend and to sit or stand erectly, and if there is a tendency to become stout will reduce the waist and abdominal fulness, and also develop the limbs. All the exer- cises should be taken with spirit and life and not in a mechanical way; put your mind into it and you will derive the greatest amount of benefit from it. mechanical Aids to normal Breathing, By W. R. C. Latson, M. D. Diagrams especially prepared for this paper by the author. In an ancient symbol the vital functions are rep- resented by a snake with its tail in its mouth, indi- cating that the process of life is an unbroken cycle, each function depending upon the others. Modern science confirms this view, and proves that to in- terfere, with one function it to embarrass all — to invigorate one is to accelerate all. And yet, while no one function can be regarded as beginning the cycle of physiological activities, it would seem that, for many reasons, respiration should be considered the first. The importance of the breathing has been rec- ognized in all ages. In many religious systems the breathing occupies first place as a means of train- ing in self control and abstraction and as a ceremo- nial. In the book of Genesis the Jahvist represents God as breathing into insensate man the breath of life, "and man became a living soul.'' In the He- brew language the aspirate Ha is one of the names of deity, in fact, a part of the name of the Hebrew God,. Jehovah. It is related that, when God changed the names of Abram and Sarai as a mark of his favor, He added to those names the sacred 146 WOMANLY BEAUTY. sound Ha, making the names Abraham and Sarah. Among the Hindoos prana, or the breath, is the principal primary method of attaining concentra- tion and poise. The sacred word Om (pronounced ah-oo-m) is simply a breathing exercise, inducing a peculiarly harmonious action of the vocal and respiratory muscles. The long, deep breath (prana nyama) of the Hindoo mystics requires exquisite muscular control, and so develops self command and concentration. Among certain savage tribes the salutation of respect consists in exhaling gently through the open mouth upon the forehead of the person sa- luted. In many languages the words for God, for life and for breath are identical or show a common origin. So among the more intelligent peoples of all ages has the importance of the breathing function been recognized. Modern civilization alone ig- nores it. Modern civilization alone impedes and strangles this most important function by corsets and belts, by tight neckwear and coat collars, t>y breathing poisonous air and by sedentary and in- dolent indoor lives. But the man who realizes the importance of deep, full breathing — who once acquires the habit of using a large area of his lungs m ordinary res- piration — has entered into a new life of power and repose. The woman who has learned tnat the most impo-t-tflnt r>/*t of Vr We. is o^>e that c h^ ner- haps has r»w»r thnno-bt nlvwt — her breathing — the woman who .realizes this has found the key to MECHANICAL AIDS TO 'NORMAL BREATHING. 147 power. Her personality, mental and physical, gradually changes. The skin becomes clearer, the eyes brighten and the face regains lost contours. The carriage of the body acquires erectness and force, and the voice gains a new power and com- pass. Gradually weakness gives place to vitality. What were formerly severe tasks become pleasur- able exercises. So, simply by breathing may the weak woman often become strong, healthy and beautiful. Through that strength and beauty she enters into her kingdom — woman's kingdom, where, as friend, sweetheart, wife, mother, she reigns in serene majesty and infinite power. Without food a man will live for forty, fifty, six- ty days, or even longer. Without air he dies in a few minutes. The action of the heart, stomach, liver, kidneys and of most other organs are beyond the direct control of the individual. The breath- ing, however, although usually unconscious, be- ing presided over by the sympathetic nervous sys- tem, may at any moment be made voluntary. Of all the vital functions, it is the one most largely under conscious control — the one most readily trained. Very few people breathe properly. In an exami- nation of several thousand cases the writer found less than one per cent of men and women who made proper use of their lungs. It may be noted in passing, that each of those found with normal respiration was remarkable for power in some par- ticular line. Two of the men and two of the wo- 118 WOMANLY BEAUTY. men found to be normal are famous vocalists. Two of the men were successful business men self raised from early poverty. One of the men was a burly negro, possessed of the figure and the strength of a Hercules. Another of the men is the greatest prize fighter that this Country has produced. As a rule of general application it may be stated that the capacity of the chest is an index to the mental and physical powers of the individual. The greatest men of all times and countries — the Napo- leons, the Luthers, the Cromwells, the Daniel Web- sters — have been large chested, deep breathing men. The writer knows of no exception to the rule that the individual who breathes normally is a man or woman of power. But normal breathing is rare — very rare. Why is this so? In the first place, it is so only among civilized men and women whose clothing and whose habits render the normal breathing movements impossible. In natural breathing the spine is straight, the body is held erect, and the entire trunk (chest, back and abdominal walls) expands with the inhalation and contracts when the air is expelled. With ordinary clothing, howover, this action is impossible. In the case of a man the wearing of a tight collar on shirt or coat and the tightly but- toned waistcoat draws the head forward, contracts and depresses the chest and rounds out the back. The chest in this position is unable to expand and only the lower or "abdominal" brepth can be taken. Among women, on the other hand, the wearing of MECHANICAL AIDS TO NORMAL r.REATHING. 149 tight belts, corsets and skirt bands about the waist renders expansion in that region impossible. Providentially, however, the dressmakers allow some little freedom of the clothing over the chest and the unfortunate woman (complacent martyr to the modern Moloch) can breathe only by a fatigu- ing and unsightly expansion of the upper ribs, known as the "clavicular" breath. The clavicular breathing has been said to be the distinctive res- piratory action of women, even as the abdominal has been claimed to be normal for men. As a mat- ter of fact, this conclusion has been based upon the examination of men and women who, bound and constricted by their clothes, breathed as their clothes permitted them. For in these days of en- lightenment and culture — of freedom and individ- uality — civilized men and women are content to be the insensate appendages of their clothes — to move and to breathe as their clothes permit. Breathing is the most important act of our lives. To one who realizes this — who appreciates that proper breathing means health and power — the questions come: — "Can I learn to breathe nor- mally?" "And how?'' Normal breathing can be learned by proper methods. The great difficulty is that the unused muscles are weakened by disuse and perhaps by pressure (as when a corset or tight belt has been worn), and sometimes these muscles are slow in acquiring normal development. Under these cir- cumstances any exercise which will localize the ef- 150 WOMANLY BEAUTY. fort in those unused regions will expedite the ac- quisition of the normal breathing action. The writer does not as a rule prescribe mechani- cal aids to physical development. But the few ex- ercises given herewith have proven so remarkably effective in the teaching of full breathing that a brief outline of them is given with illustrative dia- grams. The necessary apparatus consists of a large book weighing between three and five pounds and a little instrument known as a breath- ing tube. The breathing tube or exhaler is a small cylinder of ivory, wood or rubber; which is placed between the lips and through which the air inhaled is expelled with more or less force. In a properly constructed breathing tube it is possible to regu- late the resistance to the expelled breath. This is a decided advantage, indeed a necessity to its prop- er use. There are several instruments of this kind on the market. The best known to the writer is the Wilhide Exhaler. In the Wilhide Exhaler the exhaust is regulated by a simple device doing away with valve and other complicated mechanisms. The advantages of the breathing tube properly used are manifold. First of all, through the resist- ance presented to the escaping stream of air, the muscles of respiration are gently exercised and the normal breathing movements encouraged. Fur- thermore, the pressure exerted upon the stream of exhaled air forces the air contained in the lungs into the ultimate lobules distending them and ac- celerating a change of the residual air contained in MECHANICAL AIDS TO NORMAL BREATHING. 151 them. As a means of strengthening the lungs, of adding to the power and compass of the voice, of increasing the power to resist contagion, especially of pulmonary diseases, such as tuberculosis — in short, of augmenting the strength, endurance and 1 ~alth of the user — the breathing tube, in develop- ing the lungs, gives results probably not to be at- tained through any other mechanical device known to physical culture. It is a pocket gymnasium. Not the least important of the benefits resulting from its use is the general stimulation of the vital functions, digestion, circulation, heart action and other activities resulting from the muscular ex- ertion involved. Five minutes' use of a breathing tube will often effectually remove symptoms of coryza or com- mon cold, sick headache, dizziness or "that tired feeling." In these cases relief is afforded through the increased elimination secured by the greater activity of the lungs. EXERCISE I. Having removed or loosened all tight clothing, lie down flat upon the back, either without pillow or with one extending under both head and shoul- ders. (See Fig. i.) Place upon the abdomen a book or other object weighing three to five pounds. Now, relax all the muscles, and inhale through the nose very gently and slowly, carefully avoiding any muscular tension. If relaxation is preserved you will notice that during the inhalation the abdomi- nal region expands, raising the book. Make no at- 152 WOMANLY BEAUTY. tempt to hold the breath, but exhale immediately through the nose; and note that, as the air escapes, the abdomen retracts under the weight of the book. For some people this movement will prove difficult at first. By perseverance, however, and the avoid- ance of muscular tension the muscles will in time learn to act, and free and deep breathing will be the result. EXERCISE ii. Having as before relieved the body of all re- straining clothing, lie upon the back with the hands resting easily upon the abdomen. Now, avoiding any muscular contraction, take a full, gentle in- halation through the nose, and note by the hands on the abdomen that the inhaled breath expands first the lower part of the trunk or abdominal region and aterwards the chest. In exhaling, on the contrary, first the chest and then the abdominal region will collapse as the air leaves the lungs. (See Fig. 2.) EXERCISE III. With the body free as before, lie on the back upon a flat surface or with head slightly raised, hands resting lightly upon the abdomen. Remove both caps from the breathing tube and take same between the lips. Now, preserving muscular relaxation, inhale gently through the nose, allow- ing first the abdominal area and then the chest to expand to the inhaled air. When the lungs are com- fortably filled, exhale by blowing gently and stead- ily through the tube until the lungs are empty. (See Fig. 2.) K g .. 1. Fx*. ft. F Ja ,3 153 164 WOMANLY BEAUTY. Be careful at first to avoid any force in this ex- pulsion. Gradually with practice, more and more force may be applied. If the Wilhide exhaler or breathing tube is used the cap may, after a week of practice, be so adjusted as to cause greater resistance to the expired air and greater force may be employed. r EXERCISE IV. Lying in the same position, hands on abdomen, take' breathing tube, both caps removed, between the teeth. Now, inhale through the tube in short, gentle sips, so that with each inhalation the abdo- men expands lifting up the hands. Continue this until the lungs are filled and then exhale by blow- ing gently and steadily through the tube. EXERCISE V. Stand erect, weight thrown forward, head back, chest lifted. Remove both caps from the Wil- hide exhaler and take same between the lips. Now, inhale gently and slowly through the nose, taking in all the air possible without strain. Note that first the abdomen and afterward the chest ex- pands to the inhaled air. After inhalation exhale immediately through the tube in a steady stream until lungs are empty. (See Fig. 4.) EXERCISE VI. Standing as for preceding exercise, take the Wilhide, both caps removed, and inhale through the tube in gentle sips, noting that with each effort the abdomen expands. When the lower part of lungs are filled, exhale in steady stream through the tube. V 154 156 WOMANLY BEAUTY. The object of breathing is twofold. First, the introduction into the system of oixygen which, in reality is the most important food of the individual. Second, the elimination of the waste products car- ried to the lungs by the circulating blood. There- fore, the deeper the breathing the better. The practice of the exercises as given herewith will be found harmless to the most delicate and beneficial to the most robust. Their persevering practice will prove an unfailing method of learn- ing the movements of normal breathing. As re- gards frequency, if directions are strictly followed and no violent efforts are made, they can hardly be overdone. Five to ten minutes, two or three times a day might be well to begin, increasing the length of time and the force applied as the strength of the learner grows with practice. fiou> to Rave a Good Complexion. By Susanna W. Dodds, M. D. This is something that the American people have yet to. learn. Their habits of eating and drinking, not only as regards the quality of the food, but the manner of taking it, are not favorable to good looks. In fact, they are just the opposite, and but for our warm climate, which encourages cutaneous depuration (in summer, at least), the case would be far worse. The amount of fat pork, ham and saus- age; the fried dishes, hot with salt and pepper; the enormous amount of pickles, sweets and other con- diments; the milk, butter, eggs and cheese that are consumed, both at public restaurants and in our private homes, are a standing rebuke to our good judgment and good sense. We may indeed be thankful for the hot days and nights that come, which make us perspire freely; though the extra amount of labor imposed upon the skin and other depurators is altogether needless. Those who suffer most from heat are the ones who overtax these organs, either by eating too much, or by taking into the system substances that it cannot appropriate. Food that is highly sea- soned, or that is not required by the vital organism, tends to clog the skin and to render it unsightly. 158 WOMANLY BEAUTY. For example, an excess of fat in the food eaten will make it greasy and sodden looking. Add to this an extra amount of salt, pepper or other condiments, such as the caster affords, and the face will become pimply. Eating too many nuts in hot weather also produces pimples, boils, &c. It will be seen, therefore, that those who desire a good complexion will have to study the subject from a physiological standpoint. First, we must find out what the system really needs to replace the waste matter which is expelled from it daily. As a general thing, there is too much cramming done; and those who do not eat to excess take materials into the system which it cannot utilize. The ques- tion we should ask ourselves when we sit down at the table is not, "What would I like?" but, "How much food does my system require, and of what kind?" Until we are able and willing to ask this question and answer it honestly we shall grope in the dark in our efforts to discover the secret of a beautiful complexion. We must not expect the impossible from the living organism, even if we have the good fortune to be well born; which, alas! is not the lot of every one. We must apply science, as well as common sense, to those processes which are taking place daily in the vital economy. We apply it to everything else, why not to this?" If crude substances are taken into the blood they must either be deposited in the various tissues (the skin included), or they will have to be eliminated from the system through cu- HOW TO HAVE A GOOD COMPLEXION. 159 taneoits and other depuration. This causes an extra expenditure of vital force, and often the individual is made sick. Not only so, the depurating organs will be unable to perform their functions properly, and in time they may break down. Even the skin, which is the safest and best depurator that we have, cannot stand everything. Let the reader take a walk on a fine afternoon either on Broadway or some other crowded street and note the number of persons he meets who have really good complexions. The per cent will not be large; and if he could read the history in each case he would find that those who possess fine com- plexions have very simple habits as regards eating and drinking. They do not impose too much work upon the skin. I once knew an individual, a gentle- man past middle life, whose skin was like velvet; soft and smooth in texture, as well as beautiful in color. In his dietetic and other habits he had for many years observed the utmost simplicity. He let the caster and its contents severely alone; he neither ate too much, nor of food the system could not appropriate. Nature's way is the plain way, so simple that a little child can understand it. I must not forget, however, that I am addressing those whose ways of living, in eating and otherwise, are not ideal; and the question is, how to make the best of existing conditions. If in these things it is not possible to attain an ideal standard, then let its approximate it as nearly as the environment will permit. When we cline at tables that are sup- 160 WOMANLY BEAUTY. plied with a variety of foods, we can not only select the least objectionable, but by exercising" a little self-denial stop eating before we surfeit the system. We can also refrain from active exercise immedi- ately after the meal, intense mental excitement, &c, which will interfere with good digestion. If the food is simple and the stomach not overloaded the nutritive elements will be more perfectly as- similated. The waste in the tissues can be replen- ished without causing a surfeit and rendering the blood impure. The skin to do its best work must be kept clean; not merely the face, but the whole surface of the body. Cleanliness as applied to the skin means something more than patchwork; every part of it should be properly cared for. If this is done the face will promptly reveal the fact. Many directions have been given for improving the complexion, but the ones that are most important are generally emitted. Has it ever occurred to us that the rea- son an infant (I speak of those who are well born and well cared for) has a smooth and beautiful skin is because its diet is simple, and taken in moderate quantity? But I have seen children, infants even, whose faces and heads were covered with boils. In these cases either the diet is at fault, or the child is kept too much indoors, and compelled to breathe an atmosphere laden with impurity. Pure air, pure water and pure food are essential to a good com- plexion; so are sunlight, plenty of good outdoor exercise and sleep. HOW TO HAVE A GOOD COMPLEXION". 181 Those whose occupations compel them to live in an atmosphere that is filled with dust or other im- purities will have to devote extra attention to the skin, and especially to the face and hands, which are more exposed. A liberal amount of soap and water will be needed. Warm or hot water (soft) ap- plied with a cloth of rather coarse texture or a brush is best for removing dust and other impuri- ties; the soap, too, should be of good quality. If hot water is employed, it should be followed with cool or cold. The habitual use of hot water has a tendency to relax and if applied to the face the eyes may become weakened. Most of the lotions, cosmetics, &c, that are recommended for the face are either worthless or positively injurious. Where the skin is inclined to chap or chafe, a starch powder may be used. Sweet cream or some other simple, pure skin food is also good. The presence of wrinkles in the face, about which so much has been written, might to a great extent be avoided if only the causes that produce them were understood. The habitual use of strong tea has made many wrinkles, owing to the amount of tannin that it contains. Moreover, through its ef- fect on the nervous system the general health suf- fers, and with it the complexion. It has repeatedly been pointed out by writers upon this subject that a cheerful disposition has much to do, not only in keeping us well, but in preventing that careworn appearance which is so common. MODEL ON HORSEBACK. 162 Bicycling ana Beauty. By Mary Sargent Hopkins. Health and Beauty Culture never had a more helpful coadjutor than is to be found in the Wheel. Rightly used — not abused — it will do more than any other one thing, in aiding an ailing, delicate woman to gain strength and in keeping her well when she has gained her health. The face and figure are such telltales that to be really beautiful one must be well and happy. The story of nervous days and sleepless nights writes it- self all too plainly upon the haggard face and wasted form. One of the reasons why the wheel is such a potent factor in gaining and keeping health is because of its coaxing powers in keeping a woman out of doors and in motion. There is a fascination in the ever changing scene, in the rapidity with which one moves, and an exhil- aration which comes in a greater 'degree than in any other mode of locomotion — horseback riding, perhaps, excepted. When the bicycle was first offered to women thev were afraid of it. It seemed so daring to> mount and control such an apparently unstable piece of m WOMANLY BEAUTY. mechanism. But now thousands stand ready to attest its efficacy in restoring them to health. The wheel stimulates the circulation and regu- lates the action of the bowels, thus driving away headache, and as a cure for insomnia it stands un- equalled. In every motion which the rider makes the mus- cles are brought into play and gently exercised. With head and shoulders erect, those of the chest and arms are given a chance, while the pedal motion gives ample play to those of the legs. It is difficult to induce the home woman to go out and take sufficient exercise in the open air. She will always find some excuse for putting it oft until to- morrow. If she goes out she will not stay long enough to do much good, unless she has some ob- ject in view. She must have something to divert her mind to insure any degree of enthusiasm. This she can find in riding a wheel. In a letter written to me by Frances Willard some years ago, commending the missionarv work I was doing at that time in trying to induce women to ride, she calls the wheel a "physical evangel to women." And so it has proved to many. The wheel stands to-day the greatest emanci- pator for women extant — women who long to be free from nervousness, headache and a train of other ills. It has emerged triumphant from the contumely and derision which greeted its first appearance, and has won its way even among the most conservative women. BICYCLING AND BEAUTY; 165 But, like all other good things, the wheel can be abused, the abuse bringing about the most deplora- ble results. The woman who overdoes in riding too fast or too far, will not long be an enthusiast, and will de- rive from it neither benefit nor comfort. One of the most important things to impress upon a rider's mind is the proper adjustment of the wheel; especially is this true in regard to handlebar and saddle. The former should be within easy reach, thereby obviating the stoop. This unhealthful and ungraceful position cannot be too strongly con- demned. It is most injurious, as it gives the lungs no chance for expansion and is apt to lead to a per- manent stooping of the shoulders. Its ill effects upon the young person cannot be overestimated. If persisted in it may result in utter destruction to health and beauty. The comparative positions of a woman riding a bicycle, a horse and sitting at a sewing machine are shown by the outline figures illustrating this chapter. These pictures were made under the direction of Dr. Dickinson, the eminent medical expert of Brooklyn, N.Y ., and are absolutely correct. They are not imaginary sketches, but were taken from photographs of living models. By showing the un- draped figure the radical differences in position are shown. It has been claimed by some who knew nothing of the subject, that the motion made in running a machine and riding a bicycle were the same, and that both were equally harmful. ^f\ MODEt AT A SEWING MCHINE. Iff 168 WOMANLY BEAUTY. A glance at these illustrations will show the ab- surdity of this claim. The attitude of the figure upon the wheel is up- right and graceful, showing the freedom of motion imparted to the whole body when properly mounted. It is preferable even to the position of the figure upon horseback, which is more or less cramped, 'l lie body not being evenly balanced is therefore liable to a one-sided development. In the case of the sewing machine the body is bent and a strain comes upon the back. With the endless motions of the treadle, the tiresome up and down heel and toe motion of the foot, working from the ankle there is no freedom of movement, as in wheeling, where the foot describes a flowing, easy circle. There are swaying, graceful curvings made by the cyclist of which she is unconscious, so< easily and smoothly does she glide along. There are little turnings and lurchings as she and her wheel lend themselves to changes of direction and inequalities of the road that not only serve in presenting a picture of grace, but assist in exercising unused muscles. The clear, pure air expands the lungs, the cheeks glow, the eyes brighten and new life creeps through every vein. Care, however, should be given to the when, the how and the where to ride. Scorching over a gunny road on a hot summer dav, with no idea of BICYCLING AND BEAUTY. ■ 169 anything but to "get there" can never result in good to the rider, but is sure to excite a feeling of disgust and pity in the beholder. No sorrier sight ever pained a beauty loving eye than that of a woman humped over the handlebar, dressed in some nondescript way, with blowsy face and flying hair, tearing over the ground as if her salvation lay at the other end c i the route, and that she was sev- eral hours behind time in her race for it. From this unpleasant picture let us turn to one more pleasing, and which may be studied with profit by the woman who wishes to make the most of her opportunities for being beautiful. The wheel is in perfect order, clean and shining, so that only a minimum of strength will be required to propel it. The saddle is adjusted so that it is per- fectly easy, and does not press unduly upon any part. It is placed far enough back to allow of an easy grasp of the handlebar and high enough so that when the pedal is at its lowest point the leg is straight, but not so high as to allow of any percepti- ble motion of the hips when pedalling. The rider's dress is neat and ladylike in every de- tail, from the soft woollen union undergarment and easy fitting equipoise waist to the neat hat, sans fluttering ribbons, feathers and flowers. Her habit is tailor made, of dark heavy cloth, severely plain as to cut and finish. In warm weather her jacket is strapped upon the handlebar, to be put on over the shirt waist — for our beauty seeker has no notion of taking cold — when she dismounts for a rest by 170 WOMANLY BEAUTY. the way or to enjoy a beautiful bit of nature paint- ing. Her stockings match her habit in color, which is short as to skirt, and her shoes and gloves are neat, sensible and easy fitting. She does not dis- dain a veil, especially when the wind blows, but her jewelry is left at home with her laces. She mounts with dignity and rides easily, dis- mounting when a hill is too steep to climb with case and without undue flushing and accelerated heart beatings. With her brake well in hand (no woman should ride without a brake) she coasts leisurely down the hills. She does not consult her cyclom- eter too often, but she remembers that only half her ride is over when she turns homeward, and governs herself accordingly. Arriving there, she enjoys a bath, from which she emerges, perhaps not exactly like Venus arising from the sea, but at least with a pleasant, liealthy glow from head to foot and an appetite which does not carp at any wholesome f( M id. The morning is the best time for riding, as every- thing seems sweeter when the day is new. but any time is better than no time, but one's clothing and duration of ride should 1>e adapted to conditions. One should never ride beyond the verge of fa- tigue — a tired face and drooping figure are not beautiful. Taken in conjunction with proper food, sleep and dress, indulged in at the right time, and not overdone, wheeling stands preeminent as a culti- vator of face, form and soul. exercise— mho Heeds Tt. Cbe Benefits— Sow to Cake Tt. By Edward B. Warmann. THE HOUSEWIFE. Who does not need it? That is the question. The housewife thinks she gets enough work in her daily- duties; so she does, but as they are purely auto- matic they do not furnish the results to be obtained from a regular, systematic course of physical ex- ercise. THE BUSINESS WOMAN. Too busy? You have but to take your choice between fifteen minutes a day now or fifteen weeks or months by and by. Which? The body needs exercise just as much as it needs food, and should have it with about the same regu- larity. THE CLERK. More activity, more health, more usefulness. These follow proper, regular exercise as surely as the night, the day. With this combination you can unlock the door to success. THE BICYCLIST. Need other exercise than that which the wheel 172 WOMANLY BEAUTY. gives? Surely. Excellent as it is in developing the leg muscles, increasing lung capacity, aiding circu- lation and purifying the blood, the bicyclist will find that he is obtaining this necessary development at the expense of other portions of the body; hence an uneven and undesirable development. THE TEACHER. Too tired when night comes? Why, bless your heart! there is nothing in the world that will so rest you as proper exercise. When taken in the morn- ing it prepares you for the day; taken after school it rests you from your mental labors, puts you in condition for the enjoyment of your six o'clock dinner, also to enjoy your friends, their enjoyment of you, your readiness for lectures and entertain- ments; taken just before retiring the overloaded blood vessels of the brain are relieved, and sweet, refreshing sleep is yours. THE LAWYER. Who of all the professions is more in need of a sound mind in a sound body? This applies with equal force to the mild counsellor or the fiery pleader or debater. How many hopes have been shattered, how many idols destroyed, how many lives blasted by the unwise, unsound counsel or argument of the lawyer into whose hands was placed all that was left of life that was worth the living. THE PREACHER. Spirituality is not all; it is only a one-third de- velopment. To complete the triangle, the two EXERCISE-ITS BENEFITS. 173 others — mental and physical — are necessary. With better trained bodies would come clearer minds and higher and purer thoughts. When the body is not only considered to be, but treated as the temple of the soul, then the liver and stomach will act in harmony with the regenerated heart, and our spir- itual advisers will not so often "see as through a glass darkly." To those who minister unto us I would minister unto them by prescribing fresh air and sunshine and a little exercise every day, doub- ling the dose on Sunday; then "blue Mondays" will vanish forevermore. THE BENEFITS ARE NUMEROUS. I shall mention but a few, showing that every one, in every walk of life, will receive reward com- mensurate with the work and time given; aye, more. OBESITY (SUPERFLUOUS FLESH). Proper exercise will reduce the size of any por- tion of the body where there is superfluous flesh. Wherever superabundance of fat exists, special ex- ercises will burn out the adipose tissue, will con- sume it as completely as fire consumes fat. As fat adds fuel to the flame, and thereby increases the heat, so the excessive fat of the body overheats it and causes such discomfiture in warm weather as is known only to one so burdened. In winter it is less noticeable, as the heat is needed for the warmth of the body ; yet this should be furnished daily and need not be in excess of bodily demands. 174 WOMANLY BEAUTY. SCARCITY OF FLESH. Too thin? No need. Proper exercise and nour- ishing food will build up any part of the body. This is true with nine out of ten and will greatly aid the tenth. The law of Nature is equilibrium. Where this does not exist it is an indication that Nature has been either hindered or perverted. By proper exercise you tear down tissue in any part of the body you desire to build up. This is true of scrawny neck, thin arms, undeveloped bust, spindle legs, flat chest, &c. This exercise will call for nour- ishing food not only to supply th- waste, but give increase of flesh wherever needed. Remember that whatever you will to have you may have. THE LIVER. Is life worth living? It depends upon the liver. If more persons knew how to live there would be less liver trouble. Will exercise aid it? There is no organ of the body more directly benefited by ex- ercise than the liver. An inactive person has, usu- ally, an inactive, sluggish, torpid liver. A torpid liver means excess of bile (biliousness), but that condition does not occur with one who takes proper and sufficient exercise. A bilious and dyspeptic person is more to be avoided than — well, almost anything disagreeable. One quart of fresh air, loaded with oxygen, is worth barrels of any patent medicine ever made for the various liver troubles. THE HEART. Have vou weak heart action? Then exercise. — judiciously. Increase the trouble? No, not when EXERCISE-ITS BENEFITS. 176 properly "done. If you have a weak muscle in any other part of the body you must exercise it to in- crease its strength. The heart is a muscle and, when in perfect condition, is capable of enormous exercise without injury. If it is only weak — that is, no organic difficulty — the desired strength may be obtained by any form of exercise that causes deep, slow, rhythmic breathing; then increase the exercise from time to time as the heart increases in strength. Avoid jerky, spasmodic breathing. The exhala- tion should be slower than the inhalations in order to not produce too great dilatation of the heart. As the diaphragm descends, seize it, as it were, with the waist muscles and check it a moment, thus con- trolling its upward movement, — the exhalation. First make sure that it is your heart that needs attention and care. Nine-tenths of so called heart troubles are due to the condition of the liver and stomach. THE LUNGS. Lungs weak? Bronchial difficulty? Asthma? Catarrh? Consumption? Then partake freely of the medicine that God has so freely given and given free to every one. Not one person in hundreds among adults breathes correctly or sufficiently. You should exercise every day in the open air, or where there is moving air. Do not exhaust the deli- cate' air cells of the lungs by causing the burden necessary to lifting the chest to fall upon them. Exercise the muscles of the chest to keep it in place (active chest), and thus leave room for the lungs m WOMANLY BEAUTY. to expand. Breathe deeply all the way to the waist; hold the breath a moment, then force it out slowly but powerfully through the smallest pos- sible aperture of the mouth. This is the only exer- cise that will force the air to the apexes of the lungs and also give relief to and eventually cure asthmatic subjects. Never be without fresh air and exercise in it daily — hourly if needs be. THE STOMACH DYSPEPSIA. Another trouble. Almost wholly American. It is not altogether what you eat, but how you eat, and when you eat, and under what conditions you eat. I offer the same prescription, — exercise, but not necessarily of the extremities, the arms and legs, but of the muscles surrounding the abdominal cavity containing the stomach; such exercise as requires deep breathing and strong action of the diaphragm on the stomach and liver lying directly underneath and o'erlapping each other. This is essential when the stomach is inactive and needs blood supply and the proper churning process to get the food ready to pass on to the duodenum. In all other cases and at all other times, that which helps the general circulation helps the stomach. THE KIDNEYS. Exercise aid them .also? Truly. The kidneys are the strainers or niters of the human system; often called the scapegoat. They are unlike any other organ of the body. If the blood become loaded with poisonous substances that the kidneys can- not strain, the poison is thrown back into the sys- EPERCISE— ITS BENEFITS. 177 tern. Proper and regular exercise will strengthen the kidneys in their office of keeping the blood pure by filtering it and separating therefrom the impurities and excreting them. The kidneys, of themselves, are painless, but the "regions round about" will quickly sound the note of warning. An abundance of good water drunk daily is an excel- lent diuretic. PERFECT CIRCULATION. Surprising as the statement may seem, it is nevertheless true that perfect circulation secures perfect health; in other words, where it obtains there can be no disease. Perfect circulation allows no congestion of any organ, no sluggishness, no collection of poisonous substances, but, instead, perfect absorption, oxygenation, oxidation, assim- ilation and elimination. What will bring this great boon to humanity? Proper food, fresh air, pure water and exercise — exercise — exercise. CONSTIPATION. Lyman Beecher once said to a friend as a part- ing admonition, "Fear God, , have a clear con- science and keep your bowels open." Timely ad- vice this. When the main thoroughfare for all ref- use becomes clogged, I fail to see how a man can have a clear conscience, clear mind, clear anything. Nor is there any excuse for such a condition in this enlightened day. Avoid drastic drug's. Every morning imme- diately upon arising flush the stomach with one or 178 WOMANLY BEAUTY. more glasses of cold water (not iced). This to' keep stomach and bowels in good condition; but to get them in that condition put a teaspoonful of salt in one of the goblets of water. This is Na- ture's remedy to> tone up the stomach and cause a peristaltic action of the bowels. Flushing the colon is also to be recommended in obstinate cases. Ex- ercise the waist muscles by bowing, bending and twisting the body — from the hips. When the desired results are reached drop the use of the salt, but continue with the cold water and exercise, PHYSICAL BEAUTY. Do you desire it? You'll not find it in a drug store. 'Tis said ''Beauty is only skin deep." To all appearances this may be true, but it will not stand investigation. A cosmetic complexion is not even skin deep, but wholly on the surface. A clear, genu- ine complexion depends upon every organ of the body, and the health of every organ depends upon exercise, with its regular accompaniments — fresh air, nutritious food, pure water. Obtain a com- plexion that you can retain. Then the Body — You can make it just as sym- metrical as you desire. This may be done by syste- matic, daily exercise for the development of all undeveloped parts. HOW NOT TO EXERCISE. Haphazardly. Be as regular in your physical exercise as you are in your devotions. No, that will not do for the majority. Be as regular as you ought to be. See? EXERCISE-HOW TO TAKE IT. 179 You can't lay up a storehouse of physical strength in a few weeks or months to last you for years. A little daily work judiciously done is what tells. WHEN TO EXERCISE. The body is supposed to be in its very best physical condition at n A. M. and n P. M. These hours, especially the latter, may not be convenient, and surely the latter is not desirable, if one can re- tire earlier. I would suggest light exercise the first thing in the morning — just enough to quicken circulation. Take this before, not after, the morning bath. Just before retiring take the stronger muscular work. It will rest the brain, rest the tired part of the body and give flight to insomnia. HOW MUCH TO EXERCISE. If unaccustomed to it, begin very carefully, and work gradually. Just a few moments at a time and only a few of each of the exercises. If the muscles appear sore it is a good indication, and the exercises should be continued regularly until the muscles and tendons become accustomed to the new work. Always stop short of fatigue — unless you are too fat. SAFE FOR DELICATE PEOPLE. Exercise is much safer than drugs and much pleasanter to take. Delicacy is simply inactivity of some organ or organs. Give them the needed exercise and get the whole machinery in good working order. Then the organs call for nourish- 180 WOMANLY BEAUTY. ment, and this means increased appetite for nutri- tious food, improved digestion, better circulation, and, little by little, in proportion to the exercise taken, new and better tissue will be formed, and the body will begin to round out and show marked signs of improvement. Remember that proper exercise will add years to your life and life to your years. NO LOSS OF TIME. No one ever misappropriates time that is used for exercise. The busiest man or woman in the world can find a few moments each day to take proper care of the body. It will give you the health necessary to enjoy the wealth, and it will give you wealth — wealth of body and wealth of mind. YOU CAN EXERCISE AT HOME. Gymnasiums are all right in their place, but their place is not always convenient nor accessible. It takes time to go, time to dress, time to return, and then it takes inclination and — money. For years a leading member of a turnverein society, I am partial to gymnastic work, but to meet the needs of the day we must meet them where they so often exist at the home. EXERCISING WITH APPARATUS. This is optional. Indian clubs, dumbbells, pul- ley weights and exercisers of various kinds are pleasant and profitable to use. The pendulum of physical exercise has swung to both extremes; the one, with its exceedingly heavy work, causing the EXERCISE-HOW TO TAKE IT, 181 devotee to become muscle-bound; the other, con- sisting of a namby pamby, lackadaisical set of move- ments, which is highly suggestive of a boneless body. Seek the "golden mean" between these ex- tremes and thus combine strength and grace — not one at the expense of the other. Health and strength are vouchsafed to all who comply with the requirements, and length of days and years of. usefulness will be added unto you. REDUCING HIPS. Cfie Reduction of flesft. There are two conditions to be avoided in the ac- quiring of health, strength and comeliness of form or personal beauty; one is the excess of adipose tis- sue or flesh, the other is the want of it. These con- ditions depend upon heredity and environment or conditions. Whatever the cause may be, more or less may be done in overcoming the results. The person who is becoming too fleshy should of course avoid an excess of fat producing foods and take an abundance of exercise. Where this can be fully carried out the desired result will be se- cured, but oftentimes it may be difficult to regulate the diet properly, and especially for want of time and physical strength to secure the necessary amount of bodily exercise, as this frequently comes with advancing years, when there is a lessening of physical force and strength, or is the result of dis- eased and abnormal conditions, rendering the per- son weak, and there is not sufficient bodily strength to take the requisite amount of exercise for the ac- complishment of the purpose. Those with a tendency to fulness in the abdomen will do much to overcome it by a series of exercises, especially bending over so as to touch the fingers to< the floor and then backward as far as possible, but it is very likely to be the case that for lack of phys- 184 WOMANLY BEAUTY. ical strength these movements, which are a strain on other parts of the body, cannot be maintained for a sufficient length of time to do very much good. The person who is becoming too fleshy should sleep on a hard bed, sleeping part of the time on one side and part on the other, and avoiding too much sleep. Massage has been found exceedingly helpful, es- pecially when taken in connection with the Turkish baths, but this treatment is beyond the reach of some and costly for all. It has been found that the desired results can be obtained more readily and surely in the use of Dr. Forest's Massage Rollers than in any other way. In applying these there is little or no friction on the skin as the wheels' turn- ing avoid this. They may be used over the under- clothing, or if in the hands of another, over light bed clothing, and the pressure is brought on the deep tissues where it is needed, not on the skin or surface of the body. When applied with a steady, hard pressure, the fatty cells, which are deposited in the muscular tissues, are broken down, enter into the circulation and are eliminated. The move- ments should be lengthwise of the muscular tissues, not across them, as the object is to increase the cir- culation and take the blood from the parts rather than to bring it to them. Excessive hips and thighs can be reduced by this treatment surely and easily by a few moments night and morning. The rolling should be with a firm, Steady pressure, as high up above the waist as it can REDUCTION OF FLESH. FOR REDUCTION OF HIPS AND ABDOMEN. readily be given and up and down over the thighs, and over the abdomen it may be up and down and from side to side as the muscular tissues run in each way. In case t^here is a pendulous and protruding ab- domen it sometimes comes from a weakening of the 186 WOMANLY BEAUTY. muscles on the sides, allowing it to droop, for this the treatment should be given up and down on each side of the abdomen which will tend to strengthen and increase the elasticity of these muscles, and so draw back and hold the abdomen in place. The rolling should be applied morning and evening over the underclothing, and as much as one hundred times over each part. Wherever there is a tendency to a flabby condition of any part this will help to restore the muscular strength and activity. While it is not necessary to re- strict our diet to cer- tain specific articles, it is well, when there is a tendency to make flesh fast, to avoid food that is especially fat pro- ducing. The efficacy of this treatment has been thoroughly tested and there are many who bear witness in their appearance and by their words as to the success of the method. The rollers, No. i, with six wheels, or No. x, with, four wheels, may be used. Many find the use of REDUCTION OF FLESH. 187 two of the small rollers an advantage, using one in hand on the sides or over the limbs at the same each time. FOUR IN CHES IN SIX WEEKS. A well known professional woman of this city, says : — "My duties keep me very closely to the house, and thus I do not get the exercise I really need. Two months ago I began the use of the Massage Roller and am delighted to find that it has taken off a de- posit of fat. Night and morning over my combi- nation underclothing, I rubbed strongly up and down, over my abdomen, hips and back, and in six weeks reduced my measure about the hips four inches. All my friends notice the improvement, and my dressmaker considers it remarkable. She has been obliged to alter all my gowns. Its use strengthens the limbs, makes one stand and sit up straight, overcomes a tendency to constipation in even obstinate cases, and imparts a delightful sense of being well and ready for work or play. I con- sider it one of my best friends." E. N. N. SIX INCHES IN THREE MONTHS. Excess of flesh and constipation often come to- gether, sometimes separately. There is relief from both. Read this letter from one who has proved very fully the efficiency of the Roller treatment for both of these troubles. Arlington, Mass., September 26, 1899. Gentlemen, — After three months' use of Dr. Forest's Massage Roller, it gives me pleasure to 188 WOMANLY BEAUTY. write and tell you something of the benefit I have received from it. Three months ago I was "Fair, Fat and Forty;"' to-day I am "Fair, Trim and Forty," having reduced my hip and waist measure six inches. For chronic constipation of twenty years' standing, it has accomplished what all those years of medicine have failed to do. Physicians say it has worked wonders in mv case, and pronounce the roller a good thing. If any part of the above is of any use to you for publication, you are welcome to it, but I prefer you should not publish my name. I remain, Very truly yours. Miss . The writer of this is only one of many who have been permanently cured of these troubles. A scientific and literary gentleman says: "I have reduced my waist measure four inches, and feel a hundred per cent better. Do not publish my name, as I have no time to answer letters about it, but I tell my friends everywhere what it has done for me. ' ' The daily use of the Rollers will prevent accumu- lations of fatty deposits and secure a good form, with muscular rctivity. Cbe Ugly DucKlina— E Story. By Blsie Carmichael. "I don't know what I am going to do with An- nette next year," sighed Mrs. Blake, dropping her plump, jewelled hands into her lap, with a little ges- ture of weariness. "She is eighteen and ought to come out next winter, but just look at her!" They both turned and glanced over the wide velvety lawn, toward a group of young people. Among them, stoo'd Annette, the ugly duckling of the family, and Dorothy Fisher, her married sister, thought that her mother was fully justified in her distress about her. The girl was tall and very thin, with stooping shoulders and an awkward carriage. Her com- plexion was pale to chalkiness, and her hair had unkempt locks, blowing in the sea breeze. "Would you ever think she was a daughter of mine?" sighed Mrs. Blake, who had been a noted beauty in her youth, and was still a very lovely woman, with a superb figure and carriage. Doro- thy was looking at her little sister with a critical eye, and did not answer at once. "The child has good eyes," she said, at last, "re- ally very fine eyes, and seems to have some good points." ISO WOMANLY BEAUTY. "Oh, yes, Dorothy, I know," said Mrs. Blake wearily. "But she is not fit at all to be introduced next winter. I don't know what to do with her. I have sent her to the riding school and the gymna- sium, and she joined Mrs. Carnaby's dancing class, but she grows more gauche every moment. I am quite discouraged." "See here, mother, dear, I wish you would lend Annette to me next winter. Let her go to San Francisco, when I go home, and Jack and I will be simply charmed to have her with us for a ye ir. When I bring her home next summer I'll warrant you will see a change in her." Mrs. Blake looked more cheerful. "Why, Dorothy, how very nice of you! It would be a charming scheme, but I really don't see that it would make very much difference in the end. We will have the same difficulty about making her pre- sentable next year that we have had this. I can- not understand why she has not your figure and carriage. I never had any such trouble with you." "No, dear, of course not," answered Dorothy, her eyes sparkling, "because I brought about the figure and carriage myself. I should have been just as awkward as the poor child if I had not set about getting in training just like an athlete. Leave Annette to me next year, and I will wager you anything that you will not know her when I bring her home next June. Will you?" "Yes, indeed, my dear; you may have her, but I do hate to impose her on you and Jack. It seems THE UGLY DUCKLING. 191 quite unkind. I would prefer, of course, that she keep very quiet, and not go out at all." "Oh, of course; that's all part of my training," laughed Dorothy. "I shall be very rigid, and I am afraid the child may not like some of my rules, but if I make a beauty of her she will forgive me. One year from now, mumsie, dear, I'll explain my meth- ods, which are quite infallible, I am sure. I can feel for poor Annette, for when I first went to boarding school I was almost as gauche as she, but my training there was excellent." Mrs. Fisher rose and walked down the piazza steps. Her mother watched her with admiration, as she crossed the lawn, with her erect willowy fig- ure and graceful carriage. Annette rushed to meet her in an ungainly manner. "Come out and play golf," she cried, cavorting about her like a very awkward puppy. "Come on, Geoffrey, come on everybody; let's go over to the links." Mrs. Fisher caught a look of amusement in the eyes of Geoffrey Monteith, as he watched Annette's gambols. It hurt Dorothy, for Mr. Mon- teith was a wealthy young Englishman, who was spending the summer at the Pier, and she disliked the thought that he was making fun of her litle sister. His good opinion was much sought after, as he was the greatest lion the Anglo-Americans had imported for some years. Besides all that, he was a thoroughly good fellow, and Mrs. Fisher liked him. "Annette," whispered Dorothy, as they strolled 112 WOMANLY BEAUTY. over the links together, the younger girl's hand on her elder sister's shoulder, boy fashion, "would you like to come out to California with me for the winter. Mother says you can go." "Oh, Dot, how simply out of sight," cried An- nette, stopping and seizing her by the arm, in her strong young fingers. "Do* you really mean it? Mumsie was threatening to bring me out, and I didn't want to do it one bit. But California! Oh, Jerusalem!" Her superb brown eyes flashed with delight. "Dearest, ' : said her sister, in a low tone, "don't use so much slang — its dreadfully vulgar. You must promise me, dear, if you come, that you will do exactly as I tell you about some things." "Oh, I'll promise anything," she cried, excitedly, "if you will let me go down to Jack's ranch, and ride those bronchos of his, and do stunts like that, will you?" "Yes," promised Dorothy, "if you will be good, and do as I wish about some things." Annette ran on to tell the others, and Mr. Mon- teith joined Dorothy. "Your sister has the greatest spirits I ever saw," he said. "I envy her enthu- siasm; isn't it delicious?" He looked after her with admiration in his eyes. Dorothy was surprised. He usually "damned people with faint praise," but this was real boyish admiration. "Annette is a dear child. Mr. Monteith," she said. "I am only distressed now about her awk- wardness. We must forgive a great deal in her because of her youth." THE UGLY DUCKLING. 193 "Oh, she will outgrow that," he said, laughing- ly, "I hope," he added. Then he grew a little red and looked embarrassed. '"I am going to take Annette to San Francisco with me for next winter," Mrs. Fisher said. "I have some schemes for her, and it will be much better than for her to come out so soon. She wouldn't be presentable now." "You know it seems a pity to think of her hav- ing to come out at all," he said, seriously. "To think of her boundless enthusiasm and good spir- its being crushed out with our conventional ways. It's a great pity! I would not worry about her coming out all right, though, Mrs. Fisher. My sister used to be a perfect tomboy, and now she has settled down into a mighty pretty little matron, don't you think?" Dorothy thought of the perfect manners and grace of beautiful Lady Mary Castleton, and fresh hopes seized her. If that most conventional and lovely woman had had even a little of the gaucherie of Annette, perhaps there was a chance for the latter. "I may be in the West myself next winter," said Mr. Monteith. "I am going to be in California with some friends." And then, of course, ensued invitations on Mrs. Fisher's side, and many plans for the winter. Mrs. Fisher and her sister went West in the early fall, but it was not until March that Dorothy received a note from Mr. Monteith one day, saying 194 WOMANLY BEAUTY. that he expected to be in San Francisco and would call on them on the following Tuesday, which he knew was their "at home" day. "Let us get up a house party at Roselands while he is here," said Dorothy, as she finished reading the note aloud to her huband and Annette at the breakfast table. She glanced up at the latter in- quiringly. "It would be delightful, I'm sure," she said, flush- ing under her sister's scrutiny. "You know I love Roselands dearly, and I am sure Mr. Monteith would enjoy the outdoor life." "Then whom shall we have?" asked Dorothy, as she poured out a cup of coffee for her husband. "There, I've put in two lumps, Jack, by mistake. Fish one out or it will be too sweet for you." "Ask any one you want, Dot," said Jack, ab- sently, glancing over his mail. "You and Anne decide all that. Only don't have that confounded little ape of a Blinker, who has been hanging round Anne lately." Annette laughed merrily. "We aren't any more anxious than you to have him." She thought of the little fussy Mr. Blinker, and then of the big, athletic young Englishman, and then she blushed. "What's the matter, Anne?" said Jack, looking up. "You're growing redder every moment. Don't you like to be jollied about little Blinkum? What are you kicking me for. Dot?" and then he sub- sided behind his newspaper. About five o'clock on Tuesday afternoon Mon- THfi UGLY DUCKLING. 195 feith rang the bell of Mrs. Fisher's house. He found himself feeling very much excited as he followed the butler down the hall. He had fought off this feeling he had for Annette for nearly a year now, but instead of crushing his love for her he found he had been living on the thought of this meeting for many months. He wondered what his mother would think if he should bring home this romping, awkward little tomboy, to be the future Lady Mon- teith. Her gaucherie offended his aristocratic taste, and yet, in the real Annette back of it all, he found himself more and more interested. The freshness and true beauty of her character he could appreciate. "Mr. Monteith," announced the butler, drawing the portiere, and Dorothy came to meet him, with outstretched hand. There were several people talking in little groups, and after she had introduced him to two or three, she said: — '"Annette will give you a cup of tea over there in the bay window," and sent him away. He made his way down the long drawing room, thinking that in the old days Annette would have rushed to meet him, probably overturning a table in her flight. There was a little crowd about the table, but when he caught sight of the girl who was pouring tea he stopped involuntarily. That couldn't be Annette — that erect girl with the broad shoulders and fine figure and the conventional manner, When she caught sight of him, however, she 196 WOMANLY BEAUTY. dropped the eggshell cup in her hand, and it lay shattered on the polished floor. She blushed fu- riously as she rose and came toward him. He noticed that she carried herself most gracefully. "Mr. Monteith," she said as she shook hands, "this is a great pleasure." He was a little disap- pointed to have her speak to him in the same con- ventional way that she spoke to these others. "You used to say Geoffrey," he said in low tones as the others moved away, leaving them alone. "That was when I was a little girl," she said, dropping her eyes. "But it was only last summer," he returned, laughing. "Have you grown up so very quickly. You have changed very much," he added. "Not a bit" she said. "What will Dot do when I tell her I've smashed one of her best cups. You will protect me. won't you?" She looked up at him coquet tishly through her long lashes. "You see it was- your fault — you startled me so." She was bewitching. Monteith could not real- ize that she was the same little girl. Her eyes had always been her best feature, but now her skin was soft and delicately flushed with pink, and she car- ried herself like a little princess. "Were you glad to see me, Nita?" he asked, in a low tone, drawing a little nearer. "Were you as glad to see me as I am to see you?" He watched the pink flush mount to her white brow, and al- though she said nothing for a moment he was sat- isfied. THE UGLY DUCKLING. 197 "Of course I am," she said, after a little pause. "Dot's going to ask you down to Roselands. I know you will love it there. Its a big ranch, with acres of rose gardens and a bower of a house, cov- ered with climbing vines, and we will go for long gallops on Jack's ponies, and it will be glorious! Will you come?" "Will I come?" he said, in a tone and with a look that made her white and then red again. At that moment Dorothy came over to the tea table and brought some elderly ladies for a cup of tea, and Geoffrey rose to give some one his seat. He stood and watched Annette, with his heart in his eyes, as she deftly poured their tea and talked in an animated way. She was all his heart could desire. Her self-possession and her graceful man- ner were a perfect surprise to him. "Don't you think that Annette has improved?" asked Mrs. Fisher, going over to his side. She had seen the look in his eyes, and felt quite satisfied with her winter's work. "She is simply charming, Mrs. Fisher," he said. "You are to be congratulated on the course of training. I knew she would develop into a fine woman. She seems so much older, I cannot realize that I saw her only six months ago. It seems like six years," he said, musingly. * * * It was early in June. Dorothy and her mother were sitting on the broad veranda' of Mrs. Blake'* cottage, They watched Annette and Geoffrey 198 WOMANLY BEAUTY. Monteith stroll across the lawn to the little pier, where a little sloop lay rising and falling on the waves that dashed against the stone piles. The en- gagement was to be announced the following week, and Mrs. Blake's eyes filled with tears as she thought how soon this youngest daughter of hers would be spirited away over the sea to reign as mistress of Monteith House, one of the finest seats in England. "Dorothy, now you must tell me how yon changed my ugly duckling to such a beautiful swan," she begged. "You have worked wonders with the child — it is marvellous. Even I, her own mother, would hardly recognize her now." "Annette deserves a great deal of credit," answered Dorothy. "If she had not worked hard herself and obeyed me implicitly, I could never have accomplished so much in so short a time. In the first place, she lived out of doors all day long. In New York, you know, she always had to put up with a walk or a ride in the Park, but out on Jack's ranch she rode for miles every day, and that fresh, pure air and the exercise did a great deal to start her circulation, which had never been good. Then we put up a little gymnasium for her, and regularly, twice a day, she worked conscientiously with a hand exerciser to develop her chest, broaden her shoulders and fill her biceps and triceps. The sys- tematic exercise, which is light and no strain on the most delicate person, did wonders. For a month it was a little tiresome to her, but when she THE UGLY DUCKLING. 199 saw her muscles filling 1 out and her chest growing deep, she became very enthusiastic and worked away. Then her complexion had begun to im- prove, but her cheeks were still thin, so I gave her a dainty little facial massage roller, in ivory — one of Dr. Forest's inventions — and, after a steady use of that for a few weeks her facial muscles grew firm and the skin had a healthy pink color, as the blood flowed freely through her veins and capilla- ries. All this exercise tended to make her carry herself better. As her shoulders grew straight and broad and her lungs expanded, it was easier for her to walk well, and the old stoop and awkward gait disappeared. Now, I think Annette is really a beauty, and I am proud of her." "And I am proud of you, too, Dot!" said her mother fondly. "You have done more for the child than she will ever appreciate or know." Well Prcscrpcd. Perfumes and fiealtb. By Feux L,. Oswald, M. D. The science of health since its alliance with the theory of evolution has begun to re-establish the long forgotten truth that the means of sanitary sal- vation are indicated by the testimony of our natural instincts. Palatable food is accepted on its own recom- mendation. The brutal mediaeval delusion that children ought to be forced to disregard their food predilections is now recognized as a cause of scrof- ula and cachetic degeneracy. Sailors are no longer sickened with salt beef and mouldy hard tack. "Whatever is pleasant is wrong" was the shibboleth of anti-naturalism and doctors groaned at the men- tion of sweetmeats, but eight months ago the chief surgeon of the Prussian army recommended a new departure and lump sugar now forms a part of the soldiers' rations. They are not only allowed, but admonished to pocket a few ounces to improve their staying powers on long marches. Nauseous drugs are admitted to do more harm than good. Domestic autocrats no longer dose their youngsters with brimstone and treacle. : Theological sulphurites, too, are going out of fashion. Dr. Parkhurst ventured to record his con- 802 WOMANLY BEAUTY. victionthat the suppression of harmless pastimes has done more mischief than can be undone in a century of joy worship, and warns educators that by robbing a child's life of its sunshine they will foster the de- velopment of the moral mildew that festers in the gloom of dungeons. Under normal conditions attractive things are beneficial, hurtful things repulsive — teste the fact of an unseduced child's horror of strong stimulants. A more extended application of the same rule ought to justify the Oriental passion for perfumes. "Perfumery and prayer" were two of the three enjoyments which Mohammed, the Man of Allah, valued above all other earthly blessings. Without a parterre of roses and jessamine shrubs a Persian nobleman would hardly think wealth worth having. The custom of anointing the hair of a favorite guest still prevails in Northern Africa. Attar of roses is found in the cupboards of well to do housekeepers from Egypt to Morocco. The First Napoleon often commended it on his Egyptian campaign, and be- came so fond of perfumes that he ranked them with the necessities of daily life. He mixed them with the water of his morning bath, and, according to his biographer, Bourriconne, never went out to review his troops without drenching himself with eau de cologne, of which he always had gallons on hand. He would pour about half a quart of it into a wash basin, slightly dilute it with water, and apply it by means of a sprinkle brush, under the impression that PERFUMES AND HEAETH. 203 it was more effective than aromatic vinegar in pre- venting contagion of all sorts. "Crown me with flowers, sprinkle me with per- fumes, that I may thus enter the chamber of eternal rest," were the last words of Gabriel Mirabeau. The Greek Catholic churches use tons of incense every year, and maintain that its aromatic fumes keep evil spirits at bay. Is it quite inconceivable that it counteracts at- mospheric impurities, routs microbes and protects the lungs against disease germs? What else can have developed the natural predilection for odors of that sort? In the case of instincts acting upon the nerves of the palate, an analogous explanation is plausible enough. Those who most relished the taste of ripe fruit and detested that of vegetable poisons had a superior chance of survival. How do apples happen to taste more pleasant as they become more digestible? What makes strych- nine so bitter that it betrays itself by the very float- ing dust of its powder coming in contact with a human tongue? "It has pleased Providence thus to warn us against fatal perils," an old school phi- losopher would reply without a moment's hesita- tion. But on that theory, how shall we account for the fact that arsenic does not carry its own sanitary danger signal? It is almost as tasteless as chalk, yet will kill as quick as vegetable poisons of which a single drop would betray its presence in a gallon of water. 204 WOMANLY BEAUTY. Is it not more than probable that the difference has something to do with the circumstance that arsenic is a product of complicated mining opera- tions — an out of the way substance, so to say — against which nature thought it superfluous to warn her children? She does warn them against virulent plants, by methods acting alike on the shrewd and dull. Those who are quickest in heeding the protest of their palate survive, the rest perish. That process of natural selection, continued through a countless series of ages, has at last made the approval of our nerves of taste a pretty safe criterion of healthfulness, the apparent exception being nearly always a result of perverted appetites, acquired through persistent disregard of instinct- ive admonitions. Why should we doubt that the approvals, as well as protests, of our olfactory nerves have a similar purpose? We know that • countless enemies to health and life announce the danger of their pres- ence by repulsive odors. Is there any reason to mistrust the competence of the same monitors when they recommend the aroma of special sub- stances? The inexpressively attractive odor of coniferous forests has already prevailed against stupid preju- dices and made the sanitariums of the Southern pine woods popular health resorts. They were in- dorsed by sundry medical authorities, but nature added her casting vote by making them atmos- PERFUMES AND HEALTH. 20& pheric pleasure resorts. French physicians have gone a step further by sending patients to the Isles Hyeres, where the air is saturated with the odor of flower plantations. Some half dozen different per- fume factories cultivate hyacinths, pinks, roses, mignonette, heliotrope, violets, etc., by hundreds of acres, and the result is an air de mil fleurs that can be noticed miles to seaward, and pervades the lungs of visitors to the inmost cells of their tissue. The persistence of such aromas does surfeit sen- sitive patients, but it is probable that it affects the microbes of their ailments in a more decided man- ner, just as the germs of malignant catarrh are killed by frosts which only slightly affect the comfort of the convalescent. But domestic experiments might settle such facts at less expense. The nations of Souhern Europe perfume their sitting rooms with juniper berries, myrrh, mint and other fragrant plants, and a mix- ture of a dozen such sweet herbs can be bought in many German-American drug stores under the name of raucher pulver (fumigating powder) at about ten cents an ounce. A small fraction of that quantity sprinkled on a warm stove will develop a perfume that penetrates a number of adjoining rooms, and lingers for hours. Apple peels can be dried and preserved for years to be used in a similar manner, and a Danish lady of my acquaintance recommends the custom of hold- ing on to old Christmas trees, bottom frame and all, and now and then let them stand close to a warm 206 WOMANLY BEAUTY. stove, and evolve a trace of the aroma that their brethren in the forest generate under the influence of the summer sun. The fumes of glue factories and the more horrid effluvia of the stock yards: — "Complicirte Mord Gestaenke, Gas und Schweine-mist," have hardened millions to the grievance of atmos- pheric taints, and perfumes have come to be classed with superfluities, but the competence of instinct would be once more vindicated if they should prove to serve the purpose of disinfectants. Some Secrets About a Beautiful Heck. By Ei^anor Wainwright. In an article in a recent number of "Healch-Cul- ture" the writer says: — "The typical American girl, as Mr. Gibson has so attractively portrayed her, counts, among her many charms, a beautiful, slen- der throat and gracefully rounded neck and shoul- ders. It would be impossible to think of a Gibson girl in )a decollete gown, with prominent collar bones and painfully conspicuous hollows, but the girls who covet the Gibsonian type may be inter- ested to know that a beautiful neck lies in their power if only they will work for it. "Probably many of the 'Health-Culture" readers have found that wonderful results come from the use of the Massage Roller. The writer, who revels in advertisements, came across a description of the roller in Health-Culture, and being impressed with the glorious possibilities it offered she forthwith became the owner of one. It is needless to say that she has never repented of her bargain. Her plan for development was to roll each collar bone and the hollow in front between the two ends of the bones, a hundred times apiece every night, and she found that her heroic treatment resulted in a rapid improvement All the enthusiastic girls who care to use a Massage Roller systematically will find 208 WOMANLY BEAUTY. that it is a decidedly paying investment. "After the rolling or the exercisestheneck should be bathed in hot water and soap and rubbed with a soft towel. Follow this by rubbing the 'Health- Culture Skin Food' -ill over the neck and throat, and you find that this makes the skin very white and soft, besides being a developer. Let what does not absorb in rubbing in stay on all night, and the next morning carefully bathe the neck in tepid water and soap. These suggestions the writer hopes may be of some use to the many girls who long for a beauti- ful neck, and if she has given any inspirations her wish has been accomplished." The fashion of wearing tight fitting high collars has, in many cases, had a very unfavorable effect upon the neck, ruining the contour and symmetry not only of the neck, but also affecting the shoulders and bust, rendering it necessary to resort to mas- sage and exercises for their restoration, the only means that will overcome the trouble and restore them to a normal condition. For special instruc- tions the reader is referred to the chapter on Facial Massage, where directions are given for restoring the neck, as well as the face. This should not be neglected, for, of course, the longer it stands the more difficult' it will be to overcome. Dress ana Beauty. By Ei,i,a Van Pooi,e. Dress exists, primarily from the demand of com- fort; laterly, from a sense of ornamentation. It is a human privilege to pronounce the indi- viduality by choice of dress. Dress should be con- sidered secondary to the personality, but contact with the world proves that strength or weakness of character is plainly announced to the observer by one's attire, and that such qualities as neatness, artistic sense, extravagance, and carelessness, stu- pidity and lack of proportionate understanding are shown by its advance guard — dress. It is said that the 'greatest compliment which can be paid to a woman is to forget her dress. Such compliment is never paid to a woman who gives no thought to her appearance. The woman who ex- hibits the best taste upon the subject is the one who considers her apparel from the stand of her personality. The greater harmony of nature pos- sessed the more exquisitely tasteful will be the dress. A well balanced temperament, or an equal- ized proportion of the mental, physical and spiritual essences within us, woud make our choice of dress a part of us, and not considered apart from us. In 210 WOMANLY BEAUTY. such women, the texture, the color, the clinging drapery is a part of herself — the very rose in her hair seems to belong there. This is one reason why the more natural in style, the less obstrusive the dress, the greater will seem the adaptability to the wearer. Considering the subject from the principle of comfort, dress should conform to the figure, but in a large proportion of humanity the figure is made to conform to the dress. Insufficient thought is given to the tyranny of Fashion. We grow gray in the crusade against intemperance; we wax eloquent upon the dishonesty of politics; we beat the liars which lock us out from "equal rights;'' we enrich the inventors and manufacturers in our experiments of predigested foods, but we follow fashion with a sheeplike docility, and four times each precious year of our grown up lives consult the authorities of the fashion plate before we clothe ourselves for the season. There has been, there is, a movement among the thoughtful which, for want of a more definite name, is called "dress reform.'' One reason why it has not succeeded in its honest and well meant effort is that its leaders have con- sidered comfort only in the substitution offered. Much brain and time and money have been spent at various periods during the latter half of the past century to establish a certain method of universal dress. Their converts have been few, and their sat- isfaction limited. So good a cause, with the benefit of all humanity at heart, fails, because two prime factors are ignored — individuality and beauty; for DRESS AND BEAUTY. 211 while Fashion is a despot, she does allow some lati- tude, but a style of dress which is offered to all alike proves contrary to varied taste, and is unadaptable. And just as we cannot separate the iaea of strength from the rock, a creation of the Allwise Power, neither can we eliminate beauty from, the harmoni- ousness of woman. It is incarnate and one with her. When the independence which is granted us upon the choice of almost everything else is allowed us in clothing ourselves, then will dress indeed be an art. The Hebe whose proportions partake of the airy grace of the willow may wear any style which pleases her changeful fancy, while her more matured companion will select fabric, form and color which best suit her emphasized figure. Youth will not allow the contact of gems to quench the brilliancy of her own eyes, but will make simplicity her keynote that beauty of person may occupy all of her empire. No woman will restrict her breathing power be- cause it is the fashion to look slender; nor will little boys be made to. wear stiffly starched collars every waking moment, hampering and irritating their flesh and nerves, when all that should be required of them at this period of their lives is physical growth. When a loved one goes out of this life we will not express our loss by wearing — for a certain period only — the very ugliest garb that has ever been conceived. And last, but not least, we will not wear anything which interferes with our health, happiness or sense of fitness. Few rules can be 2l2 WOMANLY BEAUTY. given upon the subject of dress which can be uni- versally applied. Study dress as you would diet, from the stand of your own individuality. Learn that the lines of your garments accentuate or diminish your proportions. Flowing drapery, soft mate- rials, shades of color that blend into your peculiar shade of complexion will seem more harmonious, more a part of you, than will wired and stiffened effects with sharp angles and revers, which imply a sort of an aggressiveness anything but pleasing. You will do well to learn that there is such a strong affinity between the air and the human body that heavy flannels will be relegated to the other perse- cutions of the flesh practised in the age of ignor- ance, where they belong, and beside wearing light clothing — light both in color and weight — you will take what is known as an air bath, removing all clothing and receiving the tonic effect of several minutes' contact with the air once during every twenty-four hours. Color plays an important part in our happiness, as related to dress. There are but three prime colors. It is not a theory, but an established fact, that the three elements of human composition, the soul, the mind, the body, are each represented by a color. Yellow is the color be- longing to- the soul; blue belongs to the mentality, and red is claimed by the physical. You will find yourself leaning toward a preference for the color which belongs to your own predominating element. A study of this is a guide to the selection of becom- ing colors. A sensitive nature will be affected ben- DRESS AND BEAUTY. 213 eficially or otherwise by color. Shades of all colors can be worn by most temperaments and complex- ions. Black is always depressing, and white is both beautiful and becoming" always. The woman who would appear most womanly will wear soft, flowing gowns at home. She will affect a style of dress which may be worn without support of stays, a,s there is a naturalness and beauty in the indescrib- able grace of a body unhampered and permeated by its freedom, that artificial support destroys. The woman who values her office as queen of the home will never endanger her position by carelessness of her dress there. She is a wise woman who, be the income ever so small, is possessed of the prettiest tints in house gowns, even if they be only cotton print, in which to appear before those who should be dearest of all. Dress is an important factor in our existence. It is worthy of study. It is capable of authority in our health, our happiness, and our power for good. normal figure. Uoice as an Element of Beauty. By W. R. C. Latson, M. D. Voice is a most important adjunct to beauty. A Voice of pure and musical quality, of compass and flexibility, is the most perfect complement to beauty of face and form, while a disagreeable voice will mar the charm of the most beautiful. But it is not alone from the standpoint of beauty that voice is important. Quality of voice is closely related to health. A perfect tone is possible only where the body is properly poised, the breathing normal and the mucous membranes, which, like an inner skin, line the lungs, throat and( mouth, are in a healthy condition. In a healthy person this membrane, 'which covers many of the important in- ternal organs, is hard, firm and smooth. But when, through overfeeding or through deficient activity of the depurating organs, lungs, skin, bowels and kidneys, there is an undue accumulation of waste matter in the body, the work of excretion is thrown largely upon the mucous membrane, which be- comes for the time being an excretory /organ. The mucous membrane under these circumstances be- comes thickened and rough, and exudes the ac- cumulated matter in 'the form of mucous. A "cold'' is merely the effort of the mucous membranes of 21« WOMANLY BEAUTY. throat, nose and mouth to void an excess of waste matter accumulated in the system. This condition of the mucous membrane is called catarrh, and is very common. In this country it is probable that three people out of five suffer from chronic ca- tarrh. So it will be seen that quality of voice depends very largely upon health. On the other hand, an incorrect use of the voice will produce disorder through irritation of the mucous membranes as well as through local muscular strain and displace- ment of the throat muscles. Moreover, the pro- duction of voice by incorrect methods occasions an amount of general muscular exertion which cannot but "result in muscular strain and exhaustion. As a means of expression, the voice, either in song or speech, is of the greatest importance. The lecturer, the clergyman or the actor possessed of a powerful, clear and sympathetic voice has at his command a wonderful power, while a poor delivery will stultify the effect of the most brilliant thoughts. To' the successful singer, of course, artistic quality of voice is indispensable. So ihe voice, as an ad- junct of beauty, as an indication of, and a mean« to, health, and as an instrument of expression, is of the greatest importance. Voice culture and its al- lied art, elocution, should form a part of every sys- tem of education. The American voice is usually criticised; but really there are a number of varieties of the Amer- ican voice, some of which are 710 doubt disagreea- ble, others of which are not far from perfect. Un- VOICE AS AN ELEMENT OF BEAUTY. 217 derlying voice are the environmental influences, so- cial, climatic and dietetic, of the individual. So, in the New England region, we find the hard, thin, metallic, nasal voice; in the West, the harsh, intense voice, veiled by the nearly clinched teeth. The voices of the Southern people are almost always pleasant, often beautiful. The very condition, how- ever, of physical relaxation which conduces to pure tone often causes the softness of the tone to de- generate into a drawl. The influences which mould and affect the quality of the voice constitute an in- teresting chapter of physiology, but they cannot be fully discussed here. It may be stated, however, that the peculiar characteristics of the voice are not fixed and unchangeable, but that they are in- fluenced by every condition which affects the in- dividual, physically, mentally and spiritually. So, if any woman finds that her voice is nasal, high pitched, weak, harsh, muffled or otherwise faulty, she need not despair. The voice can, by proper treatment, be absolutely made over. In or- der to properly understand the methods by which this may be clone, it will be necessary to briefly consider the structure and action of the organs used in voice production. The production of the human voice is analogous to the production of a violin tone. In the violin the faint initial tone made by the vibration of the string is reinforced by the vibration of the air con- tained in the violin box. The result is the charac- teristic violin tone. So in the human voice. The contact of the air exhaled from the lungs against 218 WOMANLY BEAUTY. the vocal chords causes them to vibrate, producing the initial note. This initial note, reinforced by the vibration of the air contained jn the cavities of the pharynx, mouth and naso-pharynx, constitutes the normal human voice. (See A, B, C, Figs. I, 2 and 3). Furthermore, just as the character of the violin tone depends mainly upon the size and shape of the violin box, so the quality of the human voice is determined by the size and shape of the resanonce cavities. Referring to Fig. 1, F shows the point where, through vibration of the vocal chords, the initial tone is produced. A, B and . C show the three resonance cavities in normal position. The air in those cavities vibrating in unison with the pitch of the tone produced by the vocal chords constitutes the normal tone. The position of the resonance chambers shown in Fig. 1 is possible only where there is complete relaxation of the vocal apparatus. Any muscular effort — any attempt to make the tone by voluntary muscular contraction — at once causes displacement of the parts, shutting off or reducing the size of certain resonance cavities and causing faulty and disagreeable qualities of voice. Fig. 2 shows a common departure from the nor- mal. Here, through the lifting of the soft palate (D, Fig. 2 and 3). the entrance to the resonance cavity of the naso-pharynx is entirely closed. The air contained in this large space cannot, then, vi- brate in unison with the pitch of the vocal chords, and the onlv reinforcement to the initial tone is that afforded by the resonance of the mouth and 220 WOMANLY BEAUTY. pharynx. The tone, therefore, becomes hard, thin and unsympathetic. This fault is often associated with another, shown in Fig. 3. Here the soft palate is raised, thus shutting off the naso-pharynx, and at the same time the larynx (F) and the tongue (E) are lowered. This increases the size of the mouth cavity, making up partially for the loss of the nasal resonance by imparting to the tone depth and power. Such action of the vocal apparatus is, however, entirely abnormal. The tone produced is forced and unnatural, and must in the end lead to irreparable injury. This fault of enlarging the mouth cavity by rais- ing soft palate and lowering tongue is the most common and most insidious vice of singers. For by a strange fatality the effect upon the singer (who cannot under any circumstances hear his own voice critically) is that of greater brilliance and power. Moreover, many vocal teachers ("voice specialists,'' "tone builders'' and others, mainly "blind, leaders of the blind") have deliberately taught this per- nicious practice, and thereby ruined thousands of voices; which, without any ''cultivation", would have remained pure, sweet and expressive. It is safe to say that under the systems of vocal instruc- tion (?) heretofore in vogue more voices were in- jured than were benefited. Figs. 4 and 5. show a direct view into the throat. Fig. 4 shows the normal position in tone produc- tion. The throat is here entirely relaxed, anc through the downward position of the soft palate (see also Fig. 1, D) the nasal cavity is open to the % 2" & a $ 3 222 WOMANLY BEAUTY. vibrations of the vocal chords. Fig. 5 corresponds to Fig. 3, and shows the wide open throat position which produces the flat, hollow, brassy quality so often heard. The Action of the throat in tone production is a most complicated process, and one that has only quite recently been understood by physiologists. The subject cannot be treated here in detail; nor is it necessary. For the practical student there is but one principle to be borne in mind; and the import- ance of this principle cannot be overestimated. For perfect tone the throat must be entirely re- laxed. Any muscular contraction causes displace- ment, imparting to the tone false and undesirable qualities. But quite as important as the function of the throat is the action of the breathing apparatus in tone production. For a more extended treatise on the respiration the reader is referred to the chapter by the writer on Breathing and Beauty. The exer- cises given in that chapter will be found valuable in the cultivation of tone. The important point to remember is that forcible expulsion of the breath is not only useless but ruinous to the tone. The one thing necessary is a steady stream of air, un- forced and unimpeded, flowing against the vocal chords. Force applied here is as absurd as force applied to the violin bow. In vital breathing, as explained in Breathing and Beauty, the entire thorax should expand with the inhalation and collapse with the exhaled air. In tone production, however, there is a gentle resist- VOICE AS AN ELEMENT OF BEAUTY. 223 ance by the diaphragm to this expulsion. This re- sistance of the diaphragm is felt in sighing, sobbing, groaning and whispering, as well as in song and speech. In all these acts it will be observed that the chest wall is entirely relaxed. This flexibility of the chest wall is a prime requisite for normal tone. Breathing exercises which involve a rigid or overfilled chest, Ihowever, destroy this flexibility of the chest walls; and, once lost, it is seldom re- gained. This rigidity of the chest is a fatal obstacle to good 'tone. It may be remarked in passing that stuttering, stammering, "registers,'' aphonia, or loss of voice (frequently) and many other vocal defects are caused by 'or complicated with this condition of chest rigidity. The action of the respiratory appa- ratus for normal tone is identical with that of sigh- ing, and as effortless. Although the faults of voice are legion, with very few exceptions, they have but one cause, and that is excessive muscular action. If the voice is thin, nasal, throaty, hard, hollow or metallic, the fault "is probably the contraction of some of the throat mus- cles; while stammering, stuttering and pseudo- aphasia, or inability to pronounce certain words, are usually associated with undue contraction of the breathing apparatus. Hoarseness may come from either one of these causes; or may be due to catarrh of the tnucous membrane. Indeed, all those faults of voice are likely to be complicated by catarrh. . In the treatment of the defective voice the first consideration is the general health. Attention 224 WOMANLY BEAUTY. should t>e given to diet, bathing, exercise and rest. The importance of the depurating organs in reliev- ing a catarrhal condition of the mucous membrane should be remembered. By Turkish or vapor baths and by the morning cold sponge or plunge the skin should be kept active. Deep, full breathing (see Breathing and Beauty) will help the lungs to do their part in the great work of elimination. By a proper dietary, or, if necessary, by enemata, the function of the bowels may be regulated, while by free water drinking between meals and sufficient exercise the kidneys are encouraged to do their work. The catarrhal mucous membranes, thus re- lieved of their vicarious function of depuration, will recover tone. Vaporized vasalene applied to the parts by a suitable spray will prove a most effective local measure in the relief of catarrh and inflamma- tion of the mucous membrane. The "H. C." vasa- lene Spray and Remedy are as well adapted to this purpose as anything I know. \ Proper carriage of the body is essential to normal breathing, and, therefore, to proper tone. The ex- . ercises for pose and breathing given in Breathing and Beauty have thus a direct bearing upon the de- velopment of tone. Remembering that all faults of voice are caused by abnormal muscular action, and that the one re- quirement for a perfect tone is relaxation, the exer- cises given herewith should be practiced with the greatest care. They in no wise resemble the de- vices resorted to by the voice "specialists," "tone builders'' and "placers." Some of them, however, VOICE AS AN ELEMENT OE BEAUTY. 22S have been found useful by the few conscientious vocal teachers known to the writer, to whom they were gladly imparted. EXERCISES. All the exercises given in Breathing and Beauty have a direct bearing upon the voice. The most important of these for the general use of vocal stu- dents and others who would cultivate a pure tone are the exercises for position and for complete, un- forced breathing. Of the exercises given herewith, Nos. I, 2 and 3 are suitable for general practice. The others are selected from exercises prescribed by the writer in the treatment of a wide range of vocal defects — stammering, stuttering, aphonia, pseudo aphasia, broken voices, &c. It should be remembered that these latter exercises are intended not for general practice, but to eradicate certain faults, or to im- part to the voice certain desirable qualities. Exercise No. 1 : — Lying flat upon the back or reclining easily, take a long, deep, quiet breath. Then, without holding it, exhale to whispered "sh,'' ias in the word "hush," until the breath is exhausted. Use only enough force to make a faintly audible "sh.'' After prac- ticing this exercise lying or reclining, stand erect, weight forward, chest up, head back, and repeat. Don't try to see how Ions: or how loud you can make the "sh.'' Think only how softly and easily you can do 'it — how little effort you can use in doing it. 226 WOMANLY BEAUTY. Exercise No. 2: — Sitting or reclining at ease, take a quiet breath and exhale to soft hum on medium pitch, until breath is exhausted. In a soft, gentle hum the position of the organs is necessarily the correct one for tone. So the practice of this exercise is most important. In this exercise the only point to be considered is ease. Don't listen to the hum. Just try how softly and gently you can hum. After a little practice on the hum, try combin- ing it with the closed vowels "ee'' and "00'' (m-ee, m-00), being careful not to change the quality of the tone in passing from the "nr' sound to the vowel. Finally, try to combine the open vowels "ah" and "aw" with "m" (m-ah, m-aw). As stated, the vocal position durig the hum is the right one one for tone, and by combining this with the vowel sounds the throat will gradually learn to remain passive during tone production. The difficult point in this exercise is the change from the hum to the vowel sound. As the mouth opens to form the vowel, "ee,"' "00," "ah" or "aw," the entire position of the throat is apt to be de- ranged. This can be prevented only by extreme care and gentleness. The one thought in the prac- tice of this exercise should be ease — the reduction of effort. Exercise No. 3: — Walk easily up and down the room, imitating the gait of one who, through weakness, fatigue or in- toxication, is greatly relaxed. Use only enough VOICE AS AN ELEMENT OF BEAUT* 227 muscular force to preserve the equilibrium. Now, relaxing also the muscles of the face and throat, hum very gently a scale or arpeggio in the middle of the voice. Be careful not to listen to the 'voice. Don't try to make tones. That is just what you must not do. Try, rather, to see how gently, how easily you can hum. The difficulty, and the only difficulty, in this exercise is the tendency to use the throat action, especially on high notes. Guard against this by humming the upper tones very gently, remembering that the one object of these exercises is to eliminate effort. Finally, moving about in the same manner of ex- aggerated relaxation, sing softly the words of some simple song, thinking only of the ease of delivery and not of the tone. Exercise No. 4: — For this exercise a breathing tube, such as the Wilhide Exhaler, is necessary. Lie flat on the back, hands resting lightly upon abdomen. Re- move both caps from the Wilhide Exhaler, and take same between the teeth. Now, inhale gently through the exhaler in little sips, and note that with each sip there is a gentle, but sudden expansion at the waist. Then exhale in a gentle, continuous stream through the tubes. After mastering the movement while lying down, stand erect, in posi- tion, and inhale in the same manner. This is a most valuable exercise for imparting depth, volume and reach to voices which, although perhaps soft and flexible, are lacking in power. 228 WOMANLY BEAUTY. Exercise No. 5: — Sit facing the light, open the mouth, and hold a small hand mirror so as to command a view of the throat, similar to that shown in Figs. 4 and 5. Now, relax all the features of the face until they assume a sleepy expression, and note that the throat at the same time alters its shape so as to correspond to Fig. 4. This relaxed position of the throat al- lows the soft palate to droop, and opens the naso- pharynx so that the air contained therein may vi- brate in unison with the vibration of the vocal cords. Practise this until you can at will assume the relaxed throat position. Then, still looking in the mirror, to be sure that no throat effort is made, exhale the breath gently without allowing the throat muscles to act. After some practice on this exhale to the vowel "ah" very gently. If you no- tice the slightest inclination to> throat action, know thereby that you are using too much effort and re- solve to make the next "ah" with less. Exercise No. 6: — This exercise is the same as No. 5, except that instead of the mirror the hand upon the front of the throat is used as a guide to detect any move- ment of the parts. If movement is observed, too much effort is being used. In normal production of tone there is no movement of the throat. Exercises Nos. 5 and 6 are not recommended for general practice, as they tend to make the student self-conscious. For those, however, whose voices have been strained by overuse, incorrect methods or pernicious teaching, some more direct treatment VOICE AS AN ELEMENT OF BEAUTY. 22» is necessary than that provided by the other exer- cises given, and for such the practice of Exercises 5 and 6 will be found of immense value. There is an intimate connection between the quality of the voice and the mental state. Hatred, anger, jealousy make the voice harsh, metallic or choked. Worry or excitement render the voice uncertain in pitch and quality, and sometimes lead to stammering or stuttering. Mental depression is indicated by a monotonous hollow or guttural tone. On the other hand, health, joy, love, kind- liness impart to the voice all its most desirable qual- ities. A naturally beautiful voice is seldom found except in one possessed of a healthy, loving and happy temperament. In the cultivation of the voice a most important point, and one usually overlooked, is the mental attitude of the student. Mental poise, firmness, self-command, intelligence and kindliness will inevitably impart to the voice their respective characteristics; while unwise or evil habits of mind, such as anger, hate, jealousy, worry, excitement, hurry or animality will, in time, ruin the most perfect voice. To conclude this very fragmentary and incom- plete chapter, the writer would reiterate that in the production of the normal vocal tone, either in song or speech, no conscious effort is necessary. Faults of voice are due to deformity, to catarrh or to> mus- cular contraction. The first cause is rare, the sec- ond — catarrh — may be removed by proper hygienic treatment; the third, faulty muscular contraction, conquered by practice of exercises such as givem tbe Problem of Physical Beamy. By A. B. Jamison, M. D. The spirit of man is a conscious dynamic centre, clothed with a physical body, through which it operates.- The operations of the human organism are both involuntary and voluntary. This is true of mental acts as well as physical. In all functional processes there is a corresponding loss of vitality, which loss should be intelligently retrieved or made good. Every person that has any sense of pride in a healthful physical apearance and culture should make a thoughtful study of the relation and ratio' between physiological expenditure and income. How are you going to* replace the vitality you spend? In dress the majority of people, so far as it is within their means, supply themselves with useful and beautiful garments. They feel better and hap- pier for the care they devote to a becoming ward- robe. Why do they not have the same care of the body? The skin of the body is its external dress, and should be fresh, clean and rosy \hued, over a well rounded body. The human being should think as much of his body as of his wardrobe. Beautiful clothes, beautiful complexion and beautiful con- tour have very aesthetic relations, and delicate compliments are exchanged between them. 232 WOMANLY BEAUTY. Well fitting clothes and a well shaped body are companions that would, fare well together were it not for a third party, to which they are related and dependent — in the same way in which the immortal ego needs its support — namely, the alimentary canal, of which the exterior of the body is an ex- tension and elaboration. Man, as an upright alimentary canal, has five senses, four limbs, many desires and habits, that from infancy till, say, twenty years of age, both rule and serve him. But the average man is con- tent to remain a conscious alimentary canal. It seems to dominate the hardly awakened spirit, till the canal, of its own accord, or through accident, lies down never to rise again. Fascinated by ex- ternal things and their capability of giving him agreeable sensations, man, as naturally constituted, ignores the finer and truer promptings coming from his inner world, from the centre of his being. So his Canal is freighted with goods that sail down till they reach their destination, and are unloaded to feed this or that desire of the body. Very near the alimentary apparatus is that pe- culiar and wonderfully sympathetic mechanism called the nervous system, which presides over the involuntary movements of the body and mind. Learned men have thought that the soul had its seat in the large plexus of nerves just behind the stomach. Others, again, call the region of the stomach the vital-soul centre, the region of the pelvis the racial-soul centre (i. e., reproductive cen- THE PROBLEM OF PHYSICAL BEAUTY. 288 tre) and the region of the brain the rational- soul centre; and they say that the rational-soul centre should govern the other two. All three cen- tres are phases or modes of the spiritual-soul cen- tre. The lower soul centres act as large root cen- tres to> the tree of life, and keep the functions of the body in operation, even when the big police- man — the cerebro spinal system of nerves — is paralyzed by injury, narcotics, &c, or is in the em- brace of Morpheus. External objects engross the attention of the child and the average man, as though they were in a kindergarten. Therefore, is each content to let the subordinate policemen and engineers of bis tem- ples guard and run it, while the real inner owner and occupant remains asleep and inactive in the inner court, protected from the shocks of the outer world, just as the coverings of seeds and nuts pro- tect their life centre. From the quiet, silent, finer, innermost nature of man emanate the best sugges- tions of desire and choice of nourishment, so that normal nutrition may not be disturbed, but may be properly maintained. That inner and higher na- ture prompts man to eat to live, while, per contra, the external and lower nature urges him to live to eat. You cannot expect the same conduct of a usurping servitor as of the master. The true owner of the human temple should assume control. Judg- ing from the average human life, one would sup- pose the occupant was dispossessed and the me- nials were devoting their time to riotous living. 234 WOMANLY BEAUTY. The two lower centres in most human beings do not seem to be controlled by that supreme centre encased within the skull. Whenever the brain counterpoises the solar plexus and the pelvic re- gion it will suggest the proper liquids and solids es- sential to the normal nourishment of the body. The lower soul centres, or roots of the human tree, should be trained to send their forces to the brain lobes, that are encased in a shell like the kernel in a seed or nut. The more we study the subject of physiological nutrition, and comprehend the manner and direc- tion of the expenditure of the electrical and mag- netic forces of our organism, the more shall we realize that the upper lobes of the brain demand their full share of culture, along with the rest of the body. Many think that the development of the muscles of the chest, shoulders and arms is suf- ficient for the attainment of true physical culture. People that so understand this put in a lot of that so undertsand physical culture put in a lot of faithful daily work with dumbbells, exercisers, muscle beaters, &c, in the hope of presenting a fine physical form, which latter is a noble ambition so far as it goes. Most of them, however, fail to com- prehend that the brain, alimentary canal and pelvic organs must not be ignored in this worthy ambi- tion; that they merit, in fact, more attention than do muscles. They are. indeed, the three important centres of human energy, and the key that fits the lock of physical development and beauty, if they THE PROBLEM OP PHYSICAL BEAUTY. 285 are in proper order and co-ordination to* each other — the brain being the collector and distrib- utor, and not the two lower centres, which latter is unfortunately so> often the case with the would- be disciples of physical culture. Pride in physical beauty, as in fine clothes, is an indication of aesthetic brain energy, yet, not- withstanding these and similar virtues of brain en- dowment, a few vices will stunt its growth, in the same way that you stunt the tree from which you take the gum to make turpentine. The brain be- comes listless to the beauties of life in the ratio that the stomach and pelvic organs are permitted to waste and disturb the higher life energies. Licen- tious habits rob the brain of new and better thoughts and the body of vitality. It is the sap taken from the root of the tree, the sap that should go to the topmost branches; therefor the brain suffers decay. Alcoholic and other stimulants, to- bacco in all modes of its use, narcotics, overeating, loss of sleep, &c, are vices whose pictures are seen in the face, observed in the tone of the voice, and known by the language of the victim, whose rav- ages and vestiges are unchangeable by any amount of physical exercise. Nature will restore when all her laws are obeyed, but one vice is a weak link in the chain of physical beauty and mental strength. No one is likely to shave one side of his face and omit the other; or to take great care of the arms of a topcoat and neglect the rent m the back. But how is it with the disciples of physical culture, who 236 WOMANLY BEAUTY, show us hard muscles on their arms, yet have some vice or vices damaging other organs or parts of their body? If one portion is worthy of special at- tention the whole organism should be equally worthy of as much care, so that all the organs may act in proper harmony with one another. £are of the Heck. By STEUvA Stuart. The perfect neck in woman is white, smooth, pliant and well rounded. It should be slightly- larger at the base, melting by delicate curves into the firm ivory of the shoulders. Artists state that perfect necks and throats are rare among women. A comparison of the paintings of the feminine neck by the old masters and as seen in its natural state to-day shows a surprising differ- ence in outline. Many a pretty, girlish face surmounts a thin, un- lovely neck, and many a youthful matron exhibits in evening gown a throat apparently a decade in ad- vance of her face in age. The cause is not far to seek. For nearly a quar- ter of a century woman's neck has been imprisoned in stocks — not the wooden punishment of Puritan ancestry, but the stocks imposed by a tyrant fash- ion. Their origin is said to be due to a style set by royalty to conceal a blemish. However this may be, fair young necks have, during the period of imma- turity, been snugly encased in high, tight, imprison- ing bands and debarred throughout the daytime, at least, of their right to growth and development. The high collar stands sponsor for many an im- poverished throat, scraggy neck, flabby chin and dull, brown, lifeless tissues. Lack of food, light and exercise will rob of its birthright to health and beauty every animate thing, including the face and throat, 238 WOMANLY BEAUTY. "The blood is the life." Deprived of proper cir- culation, the tissues shrink from lack of sustenance and the muscles of the neck become flaccid from disuse. Double chins are attributable more io re- laxed muscles than to excess of fat. The question is often asked, "Why is it that singers, actresses and society women have such, beautiful throats and necks?" The answer is simple. Their vocation, their habits of life give to the neck what it needs — free- dom and exercise. Through vocal exercise and low neck dressing the throats of singers retain their youthful fulness, whiteness and firmness until late in life. A woman's throat succumbs first, usually, to the touch of Time. This is not so with the peasant classes of foreign countries who wear their apparel open at the throat. The fiat of fashion has lately decreed transparent stocks. An echo from Paris even whispers of collar- less gowns. What consternation in the ranks of angular, undeveloped and shrivelled femininity this fashion will create! They clutch their rigid neck- bands in a last desperate protest. Every year fashion and physical culture are com- ing closer. They will soon clasp hands and forget the old hostility. This is as it should be. Fashion can learn much from health culture. The latter can gain many points from fashion. The healthy dowdy and the stylish physical wreck MASSAGE FOR THE NECK. 239 240 -WOMANLY BEAUTY. will then cease to present their startling contrasts and merge into consummate feminine beauty, clothed not only in its radiant health and loveliness, but garbed in the exquisite, hygienic creations of the intelligent modiste. Had fashion and health joined forces earlier the starved, wrinkled, pendulous throats and emaciated necks which annoy so many women would not have been so largely in evidence. Whether fashion in neck dressing be high or low there are times when all women want to possess a beautiful neck. Any woman under sixty may great- ly improve her neck if she will it and will work for it. For the rounding out of deficient curves and the restoration of flabby tissues no implement ever in- vented is so adequate as Dr. Forrest's Massage Roller. This little toilet device should be on the dressing table of every woman in the land. Every revolution of its rubber wheels unrolls the secret of health and beauty. To develop or restore the neck one should wear soft, low, open neck dressing whenever possible. The transparent stocks of filmy lace, lightly wired, afford ventilation for dress occasions, and at home the low collar or kimono lend sufficient aid to the woman in quest of beauty. Girls with painfully thin necks, who desire to replace ugly depressions with coveted adipose tissue and protuberant bones and unbeautiful angles with graceful curves, will find a trusted ally in Dr. For- THE CARE OF THE NECK. 241 est's massage roller, combined with a pure skin food. The hand that wields the roller must be a per- sistent one. Spasmodic efforts at beauty culture are of no avail. Every night and morning must the little implement be called into requisition. Roll lightly over the collarbones and adjacent hollows a hundred times, if necessary, twice daily, and do not get discouraged if no improvement is seen in a month. What takes time to come takes time to cure! Every day the wasted muscles, starved hollows and depleted tissues will quiver with new vitality under the energizing tracks of the rubber wheels. All the deep tissues will awaken to life at the call of the quickening blood. Hope replaces incredulity, and conviction follows hope as the depleted tissues fill and round with the life current. Light, steady, persistent movements across the muscles develop. Heavy downward pressure carries blood from the parts, and thus reduces flesh. The brown streak shown on many necks is the result of coloring matter in the collar lining com- bined with perspiration. It also is caused by the close confinement and friction of rigid neckbands. All collars should be faced with whitesilk or cotton. To remove this streak anoint the neck with Health Culture Skin Food. This will soften the tissue, relax the pores and withdraw the minute particles of dust and coloring matter, which are unaffected by soap and water. Let this emollient remain on for five minutes. Rub the neck gently with a soft EXERCISE N( 242 EXERCISE NO. 2. 243 EXERCISE NO. 244 EXERCISE NO. 4. 246 WOMANLY BEAUTY. ^ bit of linen. Then with pure soap and warm water wash off the cream thoroughly. Rinse the neck in cold water to close the pores and impart tone to the tissues. The flesh is now in proper condition for massage, the most important step in the process of beautifying and developing. Roll lightly, evenly around the neck with the massage roller, the right side with the left hand and vice versa. Continue this for ten minutes. This should be done every night. For double chin, roll downward, with some- what heavier pressure. After the blood has been brought to the surface a myriad of eager, hungry little pores are ready for increased sustenance. Some more Health-Culture skin food should then be rubbed into the skin and left on all night. Wash the neck in cold water in the morning, as the food will have then been en- tirely absorbed, and roll for ten minutes again. In a month a great transformation should be apparent. To supplement this treatment of the neck, the exercises as illustrated in the cuts given will be found efficacious. No. i — To strengthen the throat muscles. Stretch the head back as far as possible. No. 2 — Let the head fall forward by its own weight upon the chest. No. 3 — Sidewise movement to right. No. 4 — Sidewise movement to left. Repeat all movements ten times. Then roll the head gently about ten times, very slowly, combining all these movements. Ulbat mr$. Cangtrp $ay$ and Does. By Harriet Hubbard AyBr. The proposition is advanced that the conditions of modern life are such as to make it necessary that special attention should be paid to the care of the body. And we find that, almost without exception, the men and women who are doing great work in the world are attentive to the care of their bodies. The fact that many prominent and influential peo- ple are actively interested in the intelligent care of the body has been, perhaps, the strongest influence in creating the present general interest in the sub- ject. Health culture has become fashionable, not because it is a "fad," but because it has been proven to be at once a necessity and an advantage. Physical vitality and attractiveness is, of course, a most excellent qualification in any line of activity. But of all professions it is in acting that physical beauty is most important. A man or woman to succeed on the stage must possess a strong activity and usually a beautiful physique. The stage people realize this, and of all professions they are the most intelligent and assiduous in applying such measures as will insure strength, activity, grace and attrac- tiveness. . Mrs. Langtry, one of the most prominent women (247) 248 WOMANLY BEAUTY. on the stage, is a marked example of what has just been said. As seen in New York recently, Mrs. Langtry seems as youthful and active and far more magnetic than when she first earned the title "The Jersey Lily," and that's longer ago than any of us care to remember. In an interview with Mrs. Ayer, for the World, Mrs. Langtry talked very freely and frankly on the matter. Among other things she said : — "The profoundest secret of my keeping young is that I have learned to keep my thoughts young. Of course I do things. The fact that I believe in the superior force of mind over matter does not blind me to the truth that the foundation of every successful life is good health ; that the keystone of physical beauty is perfect physical health. "A sick woman cannot be a beautiful woman, nor can she be anything but what we English call a poor-spirited woman. "To a great extent a woman's beauty is measured by her vitality — by her health. "Work, Sunshine, Exercise, Water and Soap, Plain, Nourishing Food, Lots of Fresh Air and a Happy, Contented Spirit — there, as you say, 'honest and true,' is my working rule for youth, youthful spirits and youthful looks. "I'll tell you, if you like, what I do in one day. "Shall it be a matinee day, for then I work harder, of course? Yes? Very well. "At eight o'clock my maid brings me a cup of chocolate or coffee, rarely the latter, and a bit of Burr-Mclntosb Photo MRS. HUGO DE BATH (Lily Langtry) 24? 250 WOMANLY BEAUTY. toasted bread — just a wee bit of a breakfast — which I take in bed. I read my letters, glance at the pa- pers,and then I take my cold bath — oh, yes, quite icy cold — a full bath. I love it and should not at all feel fit to work or play without it. "Then I dress leisurely and I usually do a few very simple little physical culture exercises. I al- ways do this one" (and here the Jersey Lily, gowned elaborately as she was, stood up quite erect and, swinging her arms above her head at full length with a forward movement and without bending her knees, but using her hips as a pivot, touched the toes of her embroidered slippers without any apparent effort). "I know I am all right so long as I can do that one exercise without any trouble," she said. "I dress for the day — I am not at all a woman of the negligee habit. I don't believe in dressing gowns in working hours. "It is now about ten o'clock usually, and I put on my hat and start out for a walk. "I wear low-heeled walking lace or buttoned shoes and a short skirt. "I think nothing of a ten mile walk, nor, in fact, of one of twenty miles, but I do not walk against time. I keep up a pretty steady little pace for two hours, and when I get back I am ready for a nice breakfast. "It is now about ten o'clock, and I usually ask a friend, some one of my delightful American women friends, to second breakfast, or, as we say, luncheon. WHAT MRS. LANGTRY SAYS AND DOES. 251 "Then I am off to the theatre for the matinee. "That means an afternoon of concentration and of hard work. Don't misunderstand me — I love it — but it is work in the sense that it requires the appli- cation of all one's best strength and all one's intel- lectual force. I am never so happy as when I am giving out my strength in my professional work. "After the matinee, home again. A quiet chat and dinner with a friend to keep me company. No, I do not like to eat alone. I'm a very sociable per- son, and I dearly love my friends. I eat a simple dinner of four or five courses, very few made dishes. "After dinner, again to the theatre, and then home or occasionally away with some friends for a little bite of supper. "My night bath consists of a hot bath — a real soap scrub. Oh, yes, face and all. Three or four min- utes' deep breathing and physical culture exercises, then to bed. "I sleep with windows wide open and all heat turned off. We can't get too much fresh air. And I am scarcely conscious after I touch my pillow. There is no sleep so sweet, so refreshing, so youth- retaining, as that which follows a busy day spent in happy, exhilarating work. "I wear very light clothing. I think it a mistake to be burdened by the weight of clothes, and if one's circulation is perfect one does not need a lot of flannels. "The best cosmetic is a contented mind combined with a wholesome, normal life. 252 WOMANLY BEAUTY. "I really think," said Mrs. Langtry, "the Ameri- can woman has little to learn from her English sis- ters concerning a most important factor in her appearance, her carriage. But I candidly think we all, English and American, should estimate at its full value the importance of a correct carriage in the personal impression made by each woman. "I have seen English women with lovely faces who were really never called beautiful because of a lackidaisical walk or an untidy way of holding themselves. "On the other hand, I have seen many French women — women of incomparable charm — who had not one really beautiful feature, but such grace, such poise, that they were admired extravagantly and deservedly. "American women, for whom I have the greatest affection — or perhaps I should say one type of American women — have the most amusing way of affecting new ways of walking. "There is really just one way for a woman to carry herself, no matter what her nationality. Now," said Mrs. Langtry, "ask your women readers to stand naturally. I will not condemn any one until the test is made. Now, if I were speaking to a number of women I should say/If you are stand- ing correctly you can when erect rise from your heels without bending your body forward from the ankles or bending from the waist.' "To stand correctly, recollect that the chest must WHAT MRS. LANGTRY SAYS AND DOES. 253 be raised. No woman can have any distinction who lets her chest drop, or, as we say, cave in. "Stand erect, incline the body rather forward, but do not bend it. "Make the inclining movement from the ankle; do not bend from the waist. "The sway-backed or stoop- shouldered woman invites serious ills. Stoop shoulders lessen the lung expansion, weaken the spine and crowd the heart into a space much too small for it. "Standing with the stomach thrown forward and the small of the back unnaturally curved is equally bad. Many men and women walk in this fashion and think they are in perfect poise. In this manner of holding one's self grace and beauty are thrown to the winds and the health will be injured if it is per- sisted in. The muscles of the abdomen are strained and the spine is apt to develop chronic trouble through curvature. "To stand correctly the arms should be held easily at the side, chin erect and stomach in. It should be possible to drop a line straight from the ear, shoul- der, hip and instep. The feet in standing should be placed heels together on the same line, making an angle of about sixty degrees, the weight falling on the balls of the feet. Don't throw the shoulders too far back — that is a mistake frequently made. Stand up straight. At that order four women out of five will lift their shoulders up and back, and at the same time throw out their chests and stomachs. 254 WOMANLY BEAUTY. "Keep the straight line idea in your heads and you will have no trouble in standing correctly. "Sometimes the shoulder-droop is occasioned by ill health. In that event nothing should be spared to restore the energy. Body braces only tend to make more weak that which is already weakened, and should never be used except in extreme cases. "Walking is the best exercise for women. It brings into play every muscle without straining, and is one that poor women as well as rich can take. "Do I approve of horseback riding and golf? Yes, indeed. I ride daily in London, but, if women only knew it, the best aid to a good figure and complexion is a brisk walk in the sunlight. It wouldn't be a bad plan for men also to walk more than they do, although they are taking more to pedestrianism than formerly. "It is difficult to give any specified number of miles for women to walk. A good rule is to walk until she is just short of being tired, and always to walk in proper dress, no trailing skirts, thin shoes nor feather trimmed hats. "The girl who is in the habit of walking is easily mistress of the drawing room graces. She is free in movements because she has had plenty of the best exercise. "We are in one way the most fortunate women since the days of the Greek health and beauty seek- ing epoch. "Never, I suppose, since that golden era, when the nation made the health and the beauty of its WHAT MRS. LANGTRY SAYS AND DOES. 255 race and its perpetuation of the highest importance, has so much intelligence, so much positive genius been devoted to the ways and means of attaining perpetual youth, which is the synonym for perpet- ual beauty. "I don't care what a woman's circumstances are, she cannot look her best unless she has learned to breathe correctly. The importance of correct breathing can't be overestimated. "After all, when you really reflect on what it means physiologically, respiration is the most im- portant function in life. "Until a woman has learned that her spirits, her health, her amiability and her good looks deoend upon her using her lungs to their fullest extent, she has not learned her most important life lesson. "It doesn't make any difference as to the woman's condition, her environment, her social position or her daily obligations. Without money and without price she can learn the surest way to acquire a clear skin, bright eyes and a youthful face. "She can make a strong woman out of a weak one, a fascinating and companionable wife or sweetheart out of a tired, listless, nervous, unhappy creature. "No matter what a woman's ambition may be she can reach the goal of her hopes more quickly if she brings to her efforts superb physical strength. "I believe in the importance of pure food simply cooked, but pure fresh air in unlimited quantities and knowing how to fill the lungs with oxygen not only while doing breathing exercises, but every 256 WOMANLY BEAUTY. moment of one's life, waking or sleeping, is the vital acquirement. "Of course, no woman can breathe properly in a tightly laced corset. I am horrified when I think of the way in which I used to compress my waist before I learned how to use my lungs. "I look back on my pictures showing my hour- glass figure with positive amazement. "How could I ever have thought I was getting my share of life in those prison corsets ! The great- est difficulty the woman who has worn the old- fashioned, tightly laced corset encounters in her effort to breathe correctly is through the impairment of the waist and abdominal muscles which have been for years unused. "It takes persistent practice in correct breathing to bring these weakened muscles back again to a normal state. "Of course, correct breathing dooms the tight corset forevermore. • "Deep breathing should not be a matter of five minutes a day. It should be continuous, but until one has learned how it is better to make a practice of regularly going through several deep breathing movements two or three times a day. "Once a correct breather always a correct breather, because the lungs, once used to plenty of fresh air, rebel at the slightest restriction and the 'discomfort of not being 'able to breathe' brings its own remedy." fieaitb and Beauty 4$ a Profession. An Editorial in HEAi/fH-Cui/fURE. Among the qualifications of the actor or actress appearance is of high importance. A shrunken form, a new wrinkle in the face, a failure in grace, ease or attractiveness and the pubic begins to criti- cise, the applause falls off and managers look askance. So to the actor and actress of all people appearance is important. And as a means of main- taining and developing beauty there is to-day among the better class of stage people a general and well fixed conviction. The first class actor or actress of to-day pays scarcely more attention to his or her "stage business" than to appearance. The man must be strong, active, well "set up," manly and prepossessing. The woman must be lissome, erect, gracious and superbly healthy and beautiful. More- over, not only must they look strong, but they must be strong; for only a robust man or woman can "stand the pace" on the stage to-day. The old days of the easy going, roystering actor and the careless, bohemian actress are no more. The successful stage people of to-day work and think and study hard. They have learned by experience that they can get to the top and stay at the top only by being fine men and women, mentally and phy- sically. And they have learned that such mental 258 WOMANLY BEAUTY. and physical fitness can be gained only by health. Careful living and plenty of exercise is the keynote of the life of the modern successful actor or actress. "Miss Julia Marlowe is a thorough believer in 'outdoor life,' " and she is an excellent example of the benefits resulting from such living. In fact, she is an indefatigable worker in her pursuit and retention of physical perfection and health. With her bull terrier for her only companion she will jog on long tramps across country, returning to her country home in the Catskills tired out, but thoroughly happy. The actress became very much interested in automobiling; she purchased a loco- mobile and very speedily acquired the mastery of it. On the golf links she is an energetic player, be- cause the game appeals to her not only as a game, but because it affords the opportunity she is ever looking for, to practice pedestrianism. "Miss Marlowe's appreciation of the inestimable value of a graceful carriage, especially on the stage, and of the beneficent results of walking in contrib- uting to the acquisition of such dates back to the period when she was a young and awkward girl, before she began her stage career. This awkward- ness vexed her very much indeed, and she was con- tinually planning physical culture exercises which would enable her to rid herself of this. '.'She finally decided on walking. She fashioned a peculiar sort of corset harness that fitted her very closely about the hips, and upon its completion started a series of long cross country pilgrimages HEALTH AND BEAUTY AS A PROFESSION. 259 that ultimately resulted in the complete eradication of the shambling gait that had characterized her walking. Instead she had acquired the graceful carriage that is so distinctive of her both on and off the stage." As Elizabeth Herrick says : — "Draw up a recipe for health and long youth from the lives of the women on the stage and use it — all those who can. "The life of the women on the stage is supposed to be more artificial than the life of other women. The opinions of some of the well known actresses seem to contradict any such idea. "The longer period of youthful appearance, the better carriage of the body and general liveliness, physical and mental animation of the women on the stage will probably be evident to every one. Per- sonal experiences of various actresses show the contrast in their lives to that of the ordinary woman, and that very contrast is the key to the problem of preservation of health and youth. "Late hours are not what kill, but irregular late hours are. The average woman would keep fresh longer if she put in a great deal of the time spent in massaging her face and tinkering with her com- plexion in sleeping; then her nerves, on which her looks are quite as dependent as her health, would get perfect rest; she would come out of this sleep sufficiently refreshed to feel like taking some invig- orating outdoor exercise and so capture the health- ful ozone. 260 WOMANLY BEAUTY. "Miss Adams, for example, is of a very high strung and nervous temperament and would never have been able to do her work but for the physical life she has so sensibly looked after. "In this country her outdoor life consists of a simple farm life, horseback riding and gardening." Miss Henrietta Crosman, who is recognized as one of the leading actresses of the day, has this to say regarding the care of the body : — "A healthy life is the only secret to a good con- stitution and a symmetrical figure that I know of. It may be that both may be acquired by following certain rules, but I am inclined to think that any rule that does not have for its foundation a healthy life will not bring the desired result. "For myself, I am a believer in outdoor exercise and plenty of sleep. The latter, I think, is essential to good looks and youthful appearance. Hard work I do not consider detrimental to either health or appearance, provided one secures sufficient sleep at the same time. Ten hours is none too much after an exhausting performance. In the main I think the women of the stage take better care of them- selves than others do. The society woman is likely to take sufficient sleep, but she often neglects the exercise that the actress necessarily gets in her work, and the exercise is both mental and physical. "Dissipation and success are not compatible on the stage or in any other walk of life, therefore you will find successful players the most careful obser- vers of the rigid rules of health." HEALTH AND BEAUTY AS A PROFESSION. 261 In reply to a question on this subject Blanche Bates, whose marked success as Cigarette in "Under Two Flags" and in "The Darling of the Gods" is proof of her ability, said : — "Stage rehearsal is vigorous exercise, too — three hours together of fast, hot work, with perspiration pouring down your face. But my consolation for this discomfort is its beneficial effect on my com- plexion, for you know nothing is so purifying as to perspire freely. "As to corsets — for my part I never wear them on the stage. I could not bear them. Of course, some roles have much more exercise than others and are some nights the spirit of emotion is more deep — those are the- glorious nights — but afterward you sleep like a child. "The good sleep and rest I give myself keep me well, and perhaps answer the question why the women of the stage keep youthful beyond the aver- age woman." Another well known actress, Mrs. Milton Royle, has this to say regarding health and success : — "Of course to be physically alert and mentally keen any woman before the public has to feel thor- oughly well and energetic and full of a reserve force. You can't run down, for not only would looks be impaired, but your hold on the audience lost. "All I do to keep myself in working trim is to lead a regular life. That may seem absurd for a woman of the stage to say, but listen : — My hours are neces- sarily late, so I always breakfast at 10, dine at 5.30 — ■ 262 WOMANLY BEAUTY. so as not to have my dinner interfere with my com- fort or activity — and after the performance I have my supper. This order of eating I follow abso- lutely. "Sometimes I diet even to the extent of never eating sweets while acting. "The danger of becoming too stout or too thin is not great while an actress is leading her normal, careful life, and if I find I am growing a trifle stout I walk a bit more or become a little more active in some way." The point of all this is that those whose business it is to keep themselves beautiful, youthful and magnetic find that the prime requirement for such qualifications is health and proper exercise; and if actors and actresses can retain and constantly add to their beauty and charm by such methods the lesson to those in other walks of life is plain. n Beamy Euncfceom Recently Mrs. John Barton Payne, one of the most aristocratic hostesses of Chicago's social set, gave a "beauty luncheon." Every guest represented some type of beauty, and each woman knew that the hostess considered her the most beautiful of her type in Chicago. Wealth was no consideration; talent that amounted to genius was at a discount, while genius, superior position, family, all combined, did not secure the coveted invitation. Only beauty, rare and perfect, entitled a woman to an invitation. When asked what was her standard of beauty Mrs. Payne is reported by a correspondent of the World to have said : — "I have two standards, you know. One, of the regular type of beauty — the almond eyes and the perfect profile, with a pretty figure, and the other some one thing so beautiful that the plainness of the others cannot mar it. For instance, a girl may have beautiful eyes and irregular features and still be a beauty. Or her features may be plain and her expression so beautiful that the features are. for- gotten." Then Mrs. Payne thought for several minutes, and saying, "Dare I ?" she gave the following stand- ard of beauty : — Face — A perfect oval. Eyes — Must be soulful, whether blue or brown. Forehead — Low and fair. Eyebrows — Straight, 'dark and sensitive. Eyelashes — Long and sweeping. * 264 WOMANLY BEAUTY. Hair — Abundant, whether dark or fair. Nose — Not Grecian, but straight. Retrousse pre- ferred. Mouth — Full, may be large, but must turn up at the corners. Teeth — White and even. Chin — Round, dainty, feminine chin absolutely essential. Ears — Well shaped, not necessarily shell-like, but not prominent. Complexion — Clear and brilliant, not of necessity rose-hued nor ruddy. Figure — Svelte figure preferred, refinement of outline most desirable and a splendid bearing abso- lutely essential. Arms — Fair, well rounded and smooth, but not "fat." Hands — Grace and expressiveness more essential than mere shape. Waist — A wasp waist bars any woman from the list. Only a normal, supple waist can be termed lovely. Foot — Well shaped and shod. Ankle — Only a small ankle can be called beautiful. "I do not care for the Grecian type of woman," said Mrs. Payne. "It is too cold and lifeless. I like the woman who is striking and magnetic and whose soul shines through her personality. "The American woman, as a composite type, lacks poise," continued this modern Paris. "I presume it is almost an impossible type in this age of high pressure existence, and, doubtless, vivacity and sparkle atone for the lack." Bow Patti at fifty-Seven Retains ber Beauty. By Mrs. Leonard 1,. Hiu,. Although Mme. Adelina Patti is past the half century mark, she appears like a woman of thirty. Her skin is without a wrinkle, her complexion clear and healthy, her physique strong and active. How does she accomplish this miracle, ask her friends. Has she found the fountain of perpetual youth? To an intimate admirer, Mrs. Leonard L. Hill, recently returned from a visit to the great diva's Welsh castle, Craig-y-nos, the famous songstress imparted the secret of her youthful appearance. An Evening World reporter received from Mrs. Hill at her sumptuous home, the recipes used by the "Queen of Wales'' in preserving her beauty far be- yond the time when most American women show the crows' feet and wrinkles of middle age. "When I visited Mme. Patti Cederstrom," said Mrs. Hill, "I found her at the little railroad station on her own estates to meet me. I was surprised at her youthful appearance and her extraordinary beauty. Afterward I learned the magic she em- ployed. "Every morning she gets up at 8:30, takes a bath and a short walk in her gardens. At nine or a little 265 266 WOMANLY BEAUTY. after she eats a light breakfast consisting of fruit and rolls. "While she is eating her maids arrange her hair and she looks over her mail and determines on her evening engagements. Then she writes a few let- ters and practises a half hour on scales. Only twice in thirty years has she omitted this exercise. "At eleven she is ready for a walk. Weather has no terrors for her; rain or shine, hot or cold, she ventures out just the same. When it is pouring, she can be seen in a long mackintosh reaching nearly to the ground, high rubber boots and an old slouch hat on her head, sauntering off for a few miles' walk. "When she walks she walks, and most American girls would be put to shame trying to keep pace with her. She does not pull her collar over her ears to prevent the rain from beating on her. In- stead, she holds her face up and delights to feel the rain streaming all over it. 'That is how I keep my fresh color,' she says, 'that is why there are no wrinkles around my eyes nor creases in my cheeks.' "After her walk she rests and then takes lunch in her conservatory. 'No coffee, tea, chocolate or ice-water for me,' she told me. T trace half the ills of you American women to such things.' I never saw her drink iced water. Rich foods she sedulously avoids, though she is fond of them. She is a believer in eating enough and of plain, substan- tial dishes. 268 HOW PATTI RETAINS HER BEAUTY. "After dinner, which lasts an hour or two, she sings, dances or plays, and at twelve o'clock every night goes punctually to bed. "Mme. Patti is a fervent advocate of fresh air. She revels in it. On fair days she puts on a short skirt and a pair of thick and comfortable walking shoes and tramps miles into the hills and vales of Wales. 'What ails you girls?' she used to say to us. 'Where is your ambition, your lite? Don't sit about doing nothing; get into the air and walk. Then at my age you will be as rosy and healthy as I am, and not broken down and suffering with all sorts of complaints.' She took us to the village and ordered us heavy shoes, but no one could keep up with her. "Although she allows no cards in her house, she joins in all kinds of children's games. There is ex- ercise in them, she declares, and that is what the body needs. Like all singers, she avoids draughts, but she can't get into the air often enough. Cos- metics she abhors. "Her voice is as fresh and tuneful now as when she sang years ago. The great English doctor, Sir Morell Mackenzie, told her that on account of her excellent care of herself she would sing at eighty as well as she did at forty. Tl>e woman who commands $5,000 every time she sings and looks twenty-five years old attributes her youth, her health, her splendid constitution and figure to a sensible and simple observance of nature's laws.'' Care of the Skin. By Albert Turner. There are in the skin of a full grown man of av- erage size about 7,000,000 pores. Each has its tiny little tube and its gland or fountain apparatus, which sends out the perspiration; the aggregate length of all would be as much as twenty-five miles, and if the skin is in proper condition these will throw off daily as muchr'as two pounds of refuse matter. This should certainly show us the impor- tance of keeping this great purifying system in good condition, which cannot be done simply by. wetting the body and drying it, the doing of which daily and nothing more may have a positively injuri- ous effect, for the cold water often simply softens the waxy, oily secretions, which are not removed, but rubbed down on the skin, clogging the pores and so obstructing them. To prevent this, before the water bath always give the entire surface of the body a dry rub with a suitable brush; it is better than a cloth or sponge, as it will take, up the accu- mulated secretions from the surface of the skin. A new quilted hair brush has been found most excel- lent for this purpose; if it is a little coarse or harsh at first for a sensitive skin it can be softened by using a few times in the wet bath, and it will be sur- 269 270 CARE OF THF SKIN. prising the amount of dust which will accumulate in the brush, which can be kept clean by shaking it out. This dry bath may often to advantage take the place of the water bath, and if it is used in the morning on rising and at night before retiring it will keep the skin in a clean, healthy condition, with a soft, rosy glow, which will extend to the face as well as the body from a general healthy activity. In addition to the air and tub bath, the cabinet thermal or hot air bath can often be used very ad- vantageously. This will thoroughly open pores that may have become clogged, and where the skin is inactive this will be found almost indispensable for a proper condition, and it will most effectually purify the system and so prevent pimples and erup- tions. When the skin of the body is negelcted acne and pimples are especially likely to show on the face, as the pores are more likely to be kept open here than other parts of the body, giving a chance for the impurities to escape. Ladies will find this bath an aid to beauty as well as to health, promot- ing a good complexion, and the use of the bath will also produce elasticity of muscles and give grace by overcoming stiffness in movements. It is often used advantageously in cases of rheumatic troubles and also in connection with the rollers for the re- duction of flesh. The cabinet is made so as to fold compactly, and the bath can be taken in one's own room. Bow to be Beautiful. By Rachel Swain, M. D. " As a man thinketh so is he.' ' This text carries the mind into fields of thought three-fold in character; physical, intellectual and spiritual. The body is recognized as possessing certain characteristics; and as having requirements for its maintenance, its growth and change; all of which are conducive to its health, development and beauty. It must have nourishment, exercise and environment, each tempered with all the judgment and skill that a master can possess. Though the laws which govern the existence of man are as fixed as are the laws of chemistry or electricity, or the solar system, yet the mere: knowledge of their exist- ence will not enable him to live well, to be vigorous and strong without knowing how to apply them, or such of them as he can make his own in his habits of daily life. Physical strength is one of the re- quirements necessary for the building of character. This comes through the application of the laws of health from day to day till their observance be- comes a habit of the system. When the habit is once formed the application becomes easy even in small things; and these help to make up the physi- cal character. Character or lack of it is seen in the face; the face is said to be a tablet on which a man's actions and thoughts are written; a glass 271 272 WOMANLY BEAUTY. through which his spiritual and intellectual nature shines. Good physical inheritance and proper train- ing, with the formation of health habits, give a foundation for the building of intellectual character, character which may have strength and morality; this is education, which is limited only by time and circumstance. Then follows the spiritual growth which transcends all that goes before; it is the flow- er that beautifies and refines, gives charm to the rugged work of life, it smooths the paths that are hard to tread, and gives radiance to the face as the setting sun gives halo to a cloudless sky. To re- turn to the physical part of this discussion and to the facial expression, is to add, that beautiful thoughts and feelings beautify the face and lend a charm much to. be coveted. A soft rose tinted cuticle may be seen along the moist coast of the United Kingdom of England and Scotland; or a pink and white complexion where there is continued moisture in some parts of the Eastern States. But these rose tints are much more difficult to preserve under the scorching rays of a southern sun, or amid the piercing winds of the western praires. Fortunes have been made in the traffic of cos- metics, most of which are worthless, and large sums of money are annually spent for beautifiers; but none are so good or so lasting as a good nervous system, kept in good repair by a generous supply of plain nutritious food, with moderate exercise in out-door air. This will use up the food, make good HOW TO BE BEAUTIFUL. 273 blood, without which the brain and nervous system are comparatively powerless. Unhealthful food, or food that cannot be assimilated may give a flat, flabby muscle, or it may make the face lean or pale, with furrows or blotches and a pallor that is an in- dex to imperfect secretions and ultimate bad health. Cleanliness inside and out is a great aid to digestion and good health. Any pimples, blotches. or wrinkles that steal out through imperfect or feeble digestion, or through worry, may be removed by removing the cause, and by the use of fomenta- tions to. the face before retiring at night. After thus cleansing the face in hot water, wipe dry and rub gently with the palm of the hand. Use cold water to wash with in the morning - , and brush with rice powder before going into the wind or dust. Absorb the moisture from the atmosphere by an hour's ride every morning on horseback, on a bi- cycle or in an open electric car, this would in the space of three months give oxidation enough to the blood to bring color to the cheeks and the lips. An abundant use of bread made of whole wheat meal will also give richness to the blood. Rice eaten ■ without sugar is highly recommended for plumpness; but avoid pastries and sweetmeats. The little worries or pin-pricks of life are perhaps as destructive to health, beauty and longevity, as are the great sorrows and losses that lie in the paths of most people. Reasonable people expect afflic- tions, expect sorrow to overtake them in one way or another or in some time or other, but knowing 274 WOMANLY BEAUTY. the great laws of compensation they bear up if not cheerfully, at least with tranquility. A healthy mind will have the fortitude to bear with resigna- tion an almost overwhelming grief, and in time re- act without great injury to health or the mental state. The habit of encouraging worries and griefs tends to weaken some parts of the organic physical struct- ure, which thus becomes a prey upon itself, and does not present an admirable character in the eyes of others. Courage and strength, physical health and beauty, lie in self-containment. Is there any better way to escape the worries of life than to be determined not to worry? A great and generous heart gives expression to the features; thoughts that reach out for the im- provement of humanity, words that are spoken to heal the wounded heart, the language of help in word or deed, these mould the face, enrich the un- derstanding and shape the head more effectually than brush or chisel. Beauty of person in face and figure is well worth cultivating; it carries with it a commanding pres- ence, a power to charm others, to attract or win them. It enables its possessor to lift others to a higher level, higher atainments. The desire to be beautiful is natural; it brings with it the idea of health and strength; it stimulates aspiration, and is in harmony with hygiene and health. '"Our bodies echo the voice of our minds." From Health Hints. fiitm in Beauty Culture* Compiled from Health-Culture. The woman with the frail physique, soft muscle- less hand, and remarkable fainting ability, is not the woman of to-day. Such were the objects of chivalry in feudal ages, but it was homage to weak- ness. Who has the ability to convince women that fresh air and exercise are the greatest promoters of beauty? Our English and Scotch sisters w#lk miles in whatever weather, and flourish like their own Eng- lish ivy or Scotch heather. There is nothing so effective toward freshness and elasticity of the skin as contact with damp atmosphere. But this or any other manner of exercise is un- enjoyable and unprofitable taken in tight clothing, long, heavy skirts; tight, high-heeled shoes. And women, too, are apt to forget that motion, not strain, constitutes exercise for health, and that running up and down stairs, turning mattresses and riding bicycles to excess are not proper exercise. Corsets, tight bands around the waist and circles of elastic above or below the knee, and even tight collars and tight sleeves, are responsible for cold ex- tremities, blotched complexions and lack of energy. 275 276 WOMANLY BEAUTY. The muscles of the back, loins and abdomen have become weakened by disuse, and what harmony of the uses of the body can we expect when those very important activities are interrupted? Do you feel like falling to pieces without your corset? That means that the muscles have had in- sufficient demand upon them, and have become incapable of sustaining the body without help. - Adopt some reliable system of exercises, follow the rules, be thorough in your practice, wearing a health waist, and see how quickly the muscles will respond to the call upon them, and how the increase of circulation will bring the glow to the face and the light to the eye. Those who are victims of stooped shoulders, a narrow flat* chest, should loosen their clothing, practice deep breathing, and keep in mind the rule, "raise the chest/' and they will soon obtain correct poise of the body, surprising in its effects in im- proving the general appearance. When the muscles are sore or too weak to take the exercise prescribed by your teacher or book, get Dr. Forest's Massage Rollers, and use them or have some one use them for you, according to di- rections, and the strength will come to the weak- ened parts in a surprisingly short time. They are giving rest and strength and sleep to thousands. Margaret Saunders, in Demorest's Magazine, says : — "A Massage Roller in the hands of a bright and persistent woman is worth its weight in gold." Regular bathing, the frequency depending upon HINTS IN BEAUTY CULTURE. 277 the vitality of the individual, is a positive command to those who would be beautiful. The cold sponge bath can be taken every morn- ing upon rising with pronounced benefit by all ex- cept those whose low vitality prohibits. Follow with a vigorous rub with a rough towel or brush, and few are the cases where the effect is not de- lightful and stimulating. An air bath, in which the entire body is exposed to the air, with vigorous friction by the use of a quilted hair, or other suitable brush, will tend to promote a healthy and a soft and beautiful skin, and may often be substituted for the cold morning bath or precede it. Every woman should take time to eat properly; hasty swallowing of food is to blame for much of constipation, and constipation is to blame for nine- tenths of the cases of female diseases. Use proper food, eat coarse bread, plenty of fruit — cooked if digestion is weak. Eat sparingly of meat — avoid pork. Eat nutritious rather than stimulating food. Be cautious with coffee and let tea alone. No drink is so drying, so depleting to the tissues of the skin as tea. Some women are as confirmed slaves to the tea habit as any drunkard to his whiskey. Pimples are nearly always caused by some inter- nal derangement, but are sometimes dispelled by dusting the face with flowers of sulphur while yet damp after washing. When skin nourishment is needed, wash the face 278 WOMANLY BEAUTY. well the last thing at night in pure soap and warm water, then rub a bit of "H. C." Skin Food into the surface, and it will absorb and nourish the tissues while you sleep. A coarse or common cream will only clog the pores, as they are not able to dispose of such grease as they are made of. Try rubbing into sunburned skins as much "H. C." Skin Food as it will take, upon retiring at night. Get up once or twice during the night and rub in some more, as the skin literally drinks it, when in the condition mentioned. Try the same remedy for the chafing so common to fleshy persons. It will cure you in one night, and render the skin less easy to chafe again. ''A good complexion," Stella Stuart says, "must grow from within out. A coated skin and clear skin do not journey long together. The girl who is in earnest will cut off pastry, confectionery, cake, hot bread and all greasy food from her bill of fare. She will pay strict attention to the well-known laws of hygiene, and live largely upon a vegetable and fruit diet. Highly seasoned foods and all stimu- lants must be rigidly tabooed." Women who are discouraged with their efforts to reduce a too prominent abdomen will find great benefit in cultivating a proper poise of the body. She who finds a comfortable balance when settled firmly upon her heels, with the whole weight of up- per body upon the small of the back, will continue to worry over the fact that her bodice is so much longer waisted in the back than in front. If there HINTS IN BEAUTY CULTURE. 279 was but one rule to offer to those whose poise was imperfect, it would be "raise the chest." If one will elevate the chest the entire body will assume its position. If parents will cease the mistaken ad- monition to their children to "Throw back your shoulders," and instead, say, "Raise the chest," they will soon see satisfactory results. One of the most successful business women in New York allows nothing to interfere with a "twen- ty-minutes' nap" after lunch every day. It pro- vides her with strength for the rest of the day. If any one will take a few minutes at a certain time every day, roll the arms, chest and small of back with Dr. Forrest's Massage Roller, then relax the entire body, and the thinking forces, too, for the balance of the time allotted to this recuperative practice — they will prove the theory to be more than they might imagine. Strong nerves mean power, and drugs in the shape of tonics are fictitious and do not provide that which they promise. For indigestion drink a pint of water on rising in the morning before breakfast, take the roller in both hands, raise the chest, stand near an open window so as to breathe fresh air, roll the stomach up and down and crosswise two or three minutes, and finish by rolling from the left to the right, which will carry the water out of the stomach into the in- testines, and so cleanse it of any catarrhal mucus that may have gathered in the night, and prepare it for the morning meal. This will rout dyspepsia in a very short time. 280 "WOMANLY BEAUTY. The mind is no little factor in our looks. There is an old adage which reads: — "A man who marries a woman for her looks loves her one year; if he mar- ries her for her wealth, he loves her two years; but if he marries her for her ways, he loves her for- ever and aye" — an argument that the mind is to be credited with woman's greatest charm. Not a little of the cause of women's fading is al- lowing — yes, allowing — the mind to become a sort of generator for irritability and general worry. It is a profoundly disturbing agent, both to the mental and physical functions. Certain it is, the most of us have much to contend with, to endure, to fear, for "each heart knoweth its own bitterness." Pov- erty, or an unceasing battle against it for years, is almost certain to impair one's cheerfulness. Wrecked health is not easily restored because of its association with this ioy-killer. Money, ease, leis- ure, those three great desires of the overworked, have not the power to stay the hand of death, to avert disgrace and disaster; to give us love and sym- pathv but remembering that this life is but a means to an end, and that worry cannot help us over our coming trial, we should get rid of the readiness to suffer at the least contact with life, and meet each day with a bright countenance, even if assumed, and desire will become a prophecy, and we shall see how glad life is, after all. , . Promote the power of beauty by practising what vou believe and know. Be true to your tastes and better tendencies, and you will give joy and reap happiness. films in health Culture. By Albert Turner. Now is a good time to improve your health habits. Eat nothing that you know will hurt you in any way. Never eat more than can be easily and properly digested. Fasting for one day will often prevent a serious illness. More people in this country suffer from eating too much than too little. What does knowledge profit a man if in gaining it he loses his health? It is better not to eat fruits and vegetables at the same meal. Fruit should be a large portion of one's break- fast daily. Take exercise in the morning in the open air be- fore breakfast if possible. For constipation use the Massage Roller night and morning. Hardwood floors and rugs are better than car- pets in sleeping rooms. You can often help a nervous headache by comb- ing the hair gently. 2$1 282 WOMANLY BEAUTY. The excessive use of salt with food will overtax the kidneys. If inclined to be nervous study to master yourself and exercise self-control. A man who cares for his health will not be likely to become a burden and care on others. Always humor the whims and fancies of the sick, if not injurious to their health. See to it that the church is well ventilated, for it is quite as important as the theology. Deep breathing, with the use of the Wilhide Ex- haler, will enlarge and strengthen the lungs. Try eating nothing but fruit one day a week (say Sunday) and see if you do not feel the better for it. Eat nothing between meals; it is better to feel hungry for a little while than to do it. If you feel too tired to work stop and rest. It is never safe or prudent to work beyond one's strength. See that sleeping rooms are well sunned in the daytime and well ventilated at night. Do not be afraid of night air; fresh night air is better than stale bottled day air. Cold feet can be relieved by the use of Dr. For- est's Massage Roller before retiring. Beware of the use of sweet spirits of nitre. An ounce taken by mistake has resulted in death. Do not wear clothing too warm for comfort: more suffer from overdressing than from lack of clothing. If your child cries try to find the cause and re- HINTS IN HEALTH CULTURE. 283 lieve it; this is better than trying to soothe it into quietude. If there are dark circles around the eyes it means ill health; it should be immediately looked after. Always avoid poorly ventilated rooms and halls as .much as possible. The air in a crowded place of this kind is so much poison. Do noi hard work, mentally or physically, after the last meal of the day, but plan to spend the time before sleep in. light recreation. Eating too fast and too much, and not properly masticating the food is the cause of a large per- centage of sickness. It will be found helpful to take ten minutes from usual work and give it to light reading, and so di- vert and rest both mind and body. See that you sit erect ; do not sit forward on the seat, then lean against its back, so straining the spine and compressing the bowels. For a sluggish digestion massage the stomach and bowels thoroughly twice a day with Dr. For- est's Massage Rollers. Whenever there is an ache or a pain look for the cause and see that it is relieved at once. Pain is simply a danger signal. In the use of iced drinks or food, remember that it must be warmed to blood heat before it can enter into the circulation or be digested. Clergymen should preach the importance of health culture, and that it is a sin to be sick as well as to do the wicked things so long preached against. Even in cases of accident be very cautious about 284 WOMANLY BEAUTY. administering brandy and other stimulants, except as prescribed by a skilful physician, as often it does much more harm than good. Wear linen next to the skill, as it most readily absorbs moisture, and wear woollen for outer gar- ments, for it does not, and so keeps the body dry. Teachers should consider themselves responsible for the care and growth of the body of the pupils placed in their charge, as well as for the mind and morals. Expose the skin of the entire body to the air in the morning on rising and at night before retiring, keeping up the circulation by the use of a suitable brush or a Massage Roller. It is well to have several pairs of shoes and never wear the same pair more than one clay at a time, and if damp a two or three days' rest will be better for the feet and shoes. Women should take five minutes a day from work and lie flat on the back, nil muscles related, with eyes closed, and it will be found a wonderful preserver of health, beauty and strength. In shopping avoid the crowded basements in stores where "bargain hunters'' congregate. It is better to pay a few cents more than to breathe the bad air of these "pest holes." A tendency to stoop and round shoulders may be overcome in keeping the eye ;n walking on some object higher than one's head, a tall man's hat. if in the city streets, or some point on a tree or building. The New Method of Facial Treatment. as Dr. forest's facial « massage Roller. * For use in preventing 1 and removing wrinkles and. age in the face and im- proving the complexion. It consists of a set of small wheels, each turning separ- ately on its axis, with bands of pure soft, el lslic rubber. The frame is small, but strong, and does not intt-rfere with its u e on any part of the face, and es- pecially around the eyes and mouth, where wrinkles are likely to appear. No. 6, made of Fhory and Ivory. .S3. 50 No. 7, of White Maple $1.50 With each Roller is included a copy of "Facial Massage" by "An Expert," fully illustrated, giving instructions for proper use , Dr. Forests' MoLSsacge Rollers. AN EXCESS of flesh over the abdomen and hips is undesirable from the standpoint of health or beauty and grace. All "Anti Fat » remedies should be avoided, for when effective it is always at the expense of health and strength, and many have found themselves permanently injured by the use of drugs. FOR REDUCTION, the most rapid and satisfactory, and the only safe and sure met od is the use of Dr. Forest's Masssage Rollers. These are made by putting in a suitable frame, a series of polished rollers or wooden wheels, with a soft rubber buffer on each; these turn separately, there is little or no friction on the skin, and they may be used over the underclothing by one's self, or if in the hands of another over light bed clothing, applying with a steady, hard pressure, the fattj cells which are deposited in the muscular tissues are broken down and eliminated, the muscles are made more firm and elastic, and there is with the re- duction in size, an increase in health and strength, as well as in appear- ance and comfort. A pendulous and protruding abdomen can be brouglit to place and a reduction of four, six or more inches about the waist or hips secured in a short time. Men and women who have a tendency to obesity, can keep themselves in good form by a few moments use of the rollers daily. We give the opinions of a few who have used them. A well known New York professional woman says :— " Two months ago I began the use of the massage roller, and am delighted to find that it has taken off a deposit of fat, and in six weeks reduced my measure about the hips four inches. Miss E. N. N." Another says :— Gentlemen, Three months ago I was "Fair, Fat and Forty," to-day I am "Fair, Trim and Forty," having reduced my weight fifteen pounds, hip and waist measure six inches. Physicians say it has worked wonders in my case, and pronounce the roller a good thing. Miss A. S. A scientific and literary gentlemen says :— "I have reduced my waist measure four inches, and feel a hundred per cent, better. I want some circulirs to hand to my fat friends. Do not publish my n me, as I have no time to answer letters about it." With each roller is given a copy of Dr. Forest's Manual, with full in- structions for use. Price, No. 5, 12 wheels, $4.00. No. 7, 8 wheels, for women, $3.50. For Good Skjn and Good Form use only HealtH- C\ilt\ire The Skin Food ^/ind Tissue *Bxtilder THIS is a Cream composed of pure, fine penetrating vegetable oils, with ingredients that are cleansing, healing and nourishing to the tissues, and is very highly recommended for use on the Face, Neck and Bust, in connection with the Massage Rollers and Developers, for the prompt and healthful filling out of these parts, an I the removal of wrinkles and facial blemishes, and for use over the body when the skin is rough and dry, and should be used for healing and softening the skin after exposure to the sun or wind. Invaluable for sunburn, chafing, chapping or any roughness of skin. Its use on the feet at night will re- lieve all aching and prevent corns. Contains no animal fats or glycerine, which is used freely in many of the face creams sold, and the use of which will in time cause a growth of down or hair on the face, and the coarse, crude oils often used will cause an enlargement of the pores of the skin and give it a coarse appearance with " blackheads." Too much care cannot be exercised in the selection of Skin Foods or Creams for the face, and we would simply say of "The Health-Culture Skin Food." it is made from a formula that has been thoroughly tested, and we positively guarantee it to be as recommended. We have never re- ceived a complaint from one who has used it, but words of praise from hundreds. The following are a few from many commendations, Mrs. E. B. Waiman. lately of the editorial staff of the '%adies'jiHome Journal," says : " I am very much pleased with the Health-Culture Skin Food. Of the many, I consider it the best. I have no hesitancy in commending it. ,1 accompany Mr. Warman on many of his wheel rides, and find it very soothing as well as beneficial after being exposed to the wind and sun." Very truly yonrs, Mrs. E. B. Warman. " I have used several other kinds of Skin Food that are supposed to be the best made, but they cannot compare with yours, which I prefer to any- thing else. Mrs. O. V. B. " The sample of Skin Food which I received is very satisfactory. It has a wholesome odor, and is not too highly perfumed, as most creams are. Enclosed you will find amount for a regular jar. Mrs. G. H. "Enclosed you will find express order for $2, for which you will please send me two jars of your H. C. Skin Food. I have used a great many skin foods, paying $5 for some, but yours is the best of all I have tried." Mrs. A. J. T. " I consider the H. C. Skin Food the finest I have ever used. Although I have only applied it a few times, there is a great improvement on my skin, especially on my neck. I have tried a great many. Yours is the best of them all." Mrs. A. H. A. Put up in porcelain jars and sent prepaid on receipt of price. No. I jar, 50 cents; No. 2, jarj containing three times as much as No. 1 . $1.00. Dr. Forest's Message Roller Consists of a series of wheels about i l A inches in diameter, earn turning separately and around the center of each is a band or buffer of soft elastic rub- ber. These are mounted in a suitable frame vith handles, and adapted for self treatment. In their use the deep tissues are reached, the stomach, bowels and liver are stimulated and a healthy condition restored. These have been found to be specially help- ful for Indigestion and Constipation. Read the following letters from those who have used them : I have used a Massage Roller since last November for chronic const!* stipation and soreness of the intestines. The latter trouble is now entirely cured, while the .. nstipation yielded almost immediately to the treatment. My digestion and general health are also greatly improved The roller is almost indispensable to me, so va uable has its use proved. Grace Palmer. Gentlemen— Having heard of the wonderful cures resulting from the use of the ' Massage Roller •■ in the cure of dyspepsia, and as a curative ageut I find the most potent drugs weak in comparison to your method of treatment. For any one -ufferiug with dyspepsia I unhesitatingly recom- mend this method of massa.e as a godsend. Very respectfully, W. t,. Greer. Gentlemen— The roller purchased of you is .simply invaluable. It is used for the stomach according to your instructions for indigestion, and it wasof great service It was also very beneficial for constipation. The Roller is certainly a wondei ful little invention, and I congratulate myselt every day that I am fortunate enough to possess one. Auburn N. Y. Very truly yours, W. P. Wright. Dear Sir— For many years I have been a great suffeter with a stomach trouble. I bought a Massage Roller, used it faithfully, and now I have no trouble with my stomach whatsoever. I eat as I will, and what I will, and nothing causes me any disturbance. The roller has taken away the soreness, whi^h was at times extreme. In my case it has saved doctors bills' and druggists' bills as well, which were a large item of expense before I began to use the rolier. Wishing you all success, Boston, Mass. I am yours sincerely, Mrs. X.. A. F. PRICES: Roller No. i, Six Wheels for Men and Women who are strong, $2.00. Roller No. 2 with Four Wheels, for Small or Weak Women, $1.50. With each Roller is given a free copy of Dr. Forest 's Manual of Massotherapy, 100 pages, fully illustrated. Price, 25c. a 4? > * *P^ ^ * -~^ C° /---*• <#•_ . ■r %. £ °<« - *0 J& 6 o-*, ^ : r oF •-% <*» * ♦•'1!*, o. °o. xs &.V JsitikS ./\-* A ^ •»? »•&*'. ^ „ v .!itot. ^ j9* -•IV-. "> ft': V f« ... ^" ?W \* \ fc .. - °* o ^' t ^ - ^^-* K •••*• > r 1* ^.ii>; O > ^ ; *^ :Mm\ W :. * V £v oX °* y r « « • < r ^ ^ °q, *••" * A o* ' v^ .. **> •• ♦ ^< ' \* • T« /V ^^r y _••£?•-'% ^ v . •p v ..-^%^ t* a c v ♦ V fl o- • 4 A • *- "ot* ^ , LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 021 064 131 2