TT LS5 Class _. J T±$5^ hok iLZ Copyright N° COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 'C TRAINING IN W^OOD^WORK DESIGNED FOR USE IN MANUAL TRAINING AND TECHNICAL SCHOOLS CONSIS1 !NG OF THREE PARTS CAHl'ENTHy, WOOD-TURNING AND PATTEltN WORK JAMES M. TATE INSTRUCTOR IN CARPFNTRY, WOOD-TURNING, WOOD-CARVING Pattern and Foundry practise ; ' COLLEOE OK EnCtINEKKINCt ANU THE VLECHANIC ARTS University ok IVLinnesota KiRST EUITION SCHOOL EDUCATION COMPANY MINXEAFOLIS, MINNESOTA tt ^a THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, SEP. 20 1902 COPVnnHT ENTHY Cl-ASS (7»-^Xa No cowr B. COPYRIOHT 1902 SCHOOL EDUCATIOX COMPANY 113:^31 PREFACE. The character and object of this book is set forth on its title page. It is a manual designed principally for the as- sistance of students in wood-work in its various branches as well as a help to the instructor. The author has endeavored to present the subject in such a manner as to make simple the transition from the easier to the more difificult operations. The exercises have been selected after an experience in this line of instruction, covering a period of twelve 3^ear3 and will be found practical in their aJpplication to students in manual training in technical and industrial schools. Part first, Car- pentr}', is intended to cover from sixty to seventy hours of work. Part second, Wood-Turning, not to exceed thirty-five hours. Part third, Pattern-Making, fifty or sixty hours, thus making a course which will be found to touch the principal points in the three branches of wood- work commonly taught in manual training schools or schools of technology or engineering. It has been the aim of the author to give in this course just enough instruction to enable the student to study the problems for himself, thereby the better fitting him for the construc- tion of patterns for any machine which may be assigned him to complete his course in pattern-making, which is changed annually. A perusal of this work will disclose many features which the author feels sure will commend themselves to in- structors and others interested in this department of school work. With the hope that these pages may prove a valuable aid to students and teachers alike, this work is presented to the public. James M. Tate. University of Minnesota, ^Minneapolis. FIRST PART. The Care and Use of Tools. It is conceded by all practical mechanics that no workman can do good work without first being able to put tools in proper condition. The tools supplied to each student and which he is re- quired to keep in order, are as follows : I Jointer plane. i Try square. I Jack plane. i Bevel square. I Block plane. i Hammer. 4 Paring chisels. i Screw-driver. I Marking gauge. i Back saw. These tools are to be kept at each desk, and under the care of the student assigned to such desk, who will be held responsible for them and their condition. There are numerous other general tools for use in the shop, which may be ob- tained in the tool room when the work assigned to the stu- dent may require their use. The first operation to be understood by the student, is the grinding of a chisel or a plane bit. To do this properly requires great care. The tool should be held upon the grind- stone at an angle of about 22 degrees for soft pine, or about 30 degrees for hard wood. It is advisable to hold the tool on the grindstone in such a position that the grinding will be in a direction toward the cutting edge of the tool, as shown in Fig. 1. MANUAL TRAINING Fig. I., to prevent a feather or wire edge. The tool while being- held on the grindstone should be moved slowly, back and forth, at right angles to the motion of the stone, to pre- vent grooves or uneven places being made on the tool edge. When the grinding is completed, the tool should appear as shown in Fig. 2 and not as in Fig. 3, which is in poor condi- Incorrect CoRfiECT Fig. 3. Fig. 2. tion. The method is applicable to plane irons and chisels when the grinding is done free-hand, Init various devices may be used to do the work of grinding in a much more accurate wav. One verv successful device is shown in Fig. 4, where- Fig. 4. MANUAL TRAINING 9 by the tool may be held in a fixed position, and a true bevel may be ground on the tool without the operator necessarily being- a skilled workman. ]\'Iuch more might be said on this subject, but with these few suggestions a beginner may be- come proficient with but little practice. After being properly ground the tool should be whet upon an oilstone to insure a smooth cutting edge, but in no case should a tool be ground or whet on the flat side. The proper angle at which the tool should be held on the oilstone will be better understood by a glance at Fig. 5. Fig. 5. To remove wire or feather edge, which may be caused by too much grinding or whetting, a leather strap should be used, after which the tool will have a fine and smooth cutting edge, providing the operation has been properly performed. The gouge is a chisel curved or concaved so as to form a curved cutting edge. Gouges are ground on both inside and outside, as the work may require. Inside ground gouges, should be ground on the round edge of an emery wheel, but great care must be taken not to draw the temper by too fast grinding or too great pressure. The outside ground gouge may be ground on a common grindstone, but the tool must be rocked from side to side in order to bring the convex surface in contact with the grindstone. Whetting a gouge may be best accomplished with the round edge of a slipstone, after which the use of a leather strap adds much to the smoothness of the edge and its cutting- qualities. The rules laid down in the foregoing pages will apply to edge tools in general'. After a tool has been used for some 10 MANUAL TRAINING time, and has had the operation of whetting performed on it a number of times after grinding, it is necessary to repeat the grinding. The proper manner in which to use a plane will next be considered. The jack plane i's made use of to take ofit" the rough outside surface, and the jointer, to true up and smooth the surface, thus producing a true plane. The jack plane iron should be ground somewhat rounding, so as to appear below the bottom of the plane, as shown in Fig. 6. This is IL^ Fig. 0. the proper tool to use in removing a surplus of stock. The edge of cutter being curved, causes it to cut more easily, and the work may be done more expeditiously and easily for the operator. The jointer iron should be nearly straight across and only cut a very thin chip. See Fig. 7. The block plane \ « a Fig. 7. should be ground and whet in much the same manner as the jointer, but the cutting iron is placed in the plane in an inverted position, as compared with the jointer or jack plane. MANUAL TRAINING n See Fig. 8. This is due to the fact that the iron is set at a less angle than in the jack or jointer planes. The block plane r'ti' Fig. 8. Is made use of to cut across the end of material as shown in Fig. 9. Fig. 9. The chisel is a tool which can only be used successfully by practical experience and instruction. To pare smoothly with a chisel, it is necessary to understand the grain of the wood to be treated. In order to pare smoothly across the grain, the chisel edge should be held at an angle to the fiber of the wood, but the motion of the chisel should be directly across the grain. To pare end grain, the chisel should be given a motion across the end grain as well as a downward 12 MANUAL TRAINING motion, which may be understood better by a glance at Fig. 10. The chisel most convenient for this work, is ij^2 inches ^'ig- 1<>. Fig. lOa. wide. For mortising and dovetail joints, a bevel edge chisel is the best, and the chisel best adapted to the work must be selected. For bevel edge chisel see Fig. loa. The marking gauge is a tool for marking lines on the work, which must be j^arallel with the fiber of the wood. In the use of this tool great care must be taken to move the MANUAL TRAINING 13 gauge in the proper direction. The marking point on the gauge is Hable to fohow the grain or fiber, and the operator should observe the direction in which the grain or fiber runs and move his gauge accordingly. Fig. 11 will give an idea of the operation as it should be performed. The pressure should be applied as shown in diagram. If the gauge is moved in the opposite direction, it is plainly to be seen that the marking point on the gauge would follow the direction of the fiber and the liye would not be parallel to the edge gauged from. The try square is a tool used for squaring across the work and squaring the edges, or to determine when the edges are square. The most accurate maimer in which to use the try square to determine the correct condition of an edge is to place it on the work as shown in Fig. 12. When the square is placed on the work in this manner to determine the cor- rectness of an edge, pressure should be put on the portion of tlie square as shown in the diagram, and with the pressure in this direction, move the square slowly downward until the blade comes in contact with the work at some point, which will determine the exact condition of the edge. The ordin- ary way of applying the try square to the work is shown in 14 MANUAL TRAINING Fig. 13. The advantage of the method as shown in Fig. 12 is that the long blade of the square in contact with the wide surface is a longrer and a more accurate indicator. Fig. 13. The bevel square is a tool used for the purpose of guiding the marker in making lines at an angle or obliquely across the work. The blade, being adjustable, may be set at any angle from one to ninety degrees. The bevel square is shown in position on the work in Fig'. 14. Fig. 14-. The hammer and screw-driver are tools which need no explanation as to their usefulness, but the latest and most im- proved patterns, such as the lightning and rapid transit screw- drivers, are much more convenient and expeditious. A word might be said here as to the manner in which a screw- driver should be fitted to the slot in the screw. The beginner will ordinarily fit a screw-driver as shown in Fig. 15. This is in extremely bad form. The best form is as shown in Fig. 16. This condition prevents the screw-driver from slip- ping out of the slot in the head of the screw with very little MANUAL TRAINING 15 do'.viiward pressure, while in the preceding figure it can be seen readily, that the driver would require great pressure, and, at the same time, be liable to slip out of the slot and r^' \_y Fig. 15. Fig. 16. Fig. 17. damage the head of the screw. The correctly fitted screw- driver and its position in the slot of the screw are shown in Fig. 17. The back saw is a small saw, used for small work at the bench; such as joints, cutting off, etc., but cannot be used Fig. 18. for anything larger than two or three inches in thickness, and even at this thickness, a larger saw is more applicable. The back saw is shown in Fig i8. The tools necessary for any purpose outside of those al- ready mentioned are listed as general tools, and are kept in the tool room and can be obtained upon application to the instructor. Following is a partial list of the tools necessary for the various exercises, used in the carpentry course : Crosscut saw. Rip saw. Bit brace. Auger bits (various sizes from ^4 ii''- to i in) i6 MANUAL TRAINING Rabbet plane. Plougb plane. Oilstone. Slipstone. Steel square. Tlie crosscut saw is used for the purpose of cutting across the grain or fiber of the wood. The teeth of a cross- cut saw are of the shape shown in Fig. .19. The teeth are Fig. 39. filed to a lance shape and are inclined somewhat- toward the point of the saw. Every alternate tooth is inclined toward one side of the blade, so as to cut^an opening slightly wider than the tliickness of the blade. This is called set and pro- vides clearance for the saw in passing through the wood. The rip saw is used for cutting parallel with the grain and has a differently formed tooth, see Fig. 20, and is filed di- Fig. 20. rectly across. The proper angle or rake for teeth of a rip saw may be determined by placing the try square on the points of the teeth, as shown in Fig. 21. The front side of the tooth should be at a right angle to the line of the points of the teeth ; while in the crosscut, the test may be made by placing the try square on the back of the saw, as shown in MANUAL TRAINING 17 Fig 22. The front or cutting edge of the tooth should be parallel to the blade of the square. This rule is the best for rJM\f\ r\^-JM'x^.J\MVMM\KKK^N^s^ Fig. 21. crosscut saws for general use, but gives somewhat more rake or angle than is suggested by some writers on the sub- 0® Wl/M/ •^^^^^^^^-^^^Mn/^mvn ^VHl Fig. 22. ject. It is evident that the more rake the saw tooth has, i8 MANUAL TRAINING the more freely it will cut, but with too much rake or angle it will not cut so smoothly. This rule, however, is one which meets with the approval of practical workmen, in general. The bit brace will need no further explanation than is af- forded by Fig 23. This tool is used to drive the auger or Fig. 23. drill by hand, and to hold it in a fixed position while perform- ing the work of boring. The various kinds of bits, made use of in wood working, are the Auger bit. Expansive bit. Wood drill. Bottom bit. Center bit. The various kinds are shown in Fig. 24. MANUAL TRAINING 19 Bottom bit. Fig. 24 Continued. The rabbet plane is shown in Fig. 25, and is used to plane out by hand such angles as are shown in Fig. 26. This plane Fig. 25 is adapted to cutting parallel with the grain, "but for cutting ^ y /^' Fig. 26. MANUAL TRAINING across the grain the filHster plane is best. This plane differs from the rabbet plane somewhat. The cutter is not set at a right angle to the plane, but is arranged obliquely across the bottom of the plane, thereby giving a skew cut. This is necessary to insure a smooth surface in cutting across the grain. It also has a spur or cutter projecting below the bot- FiS torn and in advance of the cutter proper and cutting in a par- allel line to the motion of the plane to cut the fiber of the cross- grain. The fillister is shown in Fig. 27. A very conven- Fie. 2> lit;. _ ->. lent tool is the combination rabbet and fillister. This tool will perform the work of both. The plough plane is shown Fig. 29. in Fig. 28 and is used in planing a groove or double angle, as shown in Fig. 29. This plane has cutters of various widths^ MANUAL TRAINING 21 which may be adjusted in the plane to accommodate the work to be done. It also has a depth gauge in order to make the groove the proper depth. This gauge may be set and, when the limit has been reached, the plane will no longer cut. The oilstone and slipstone will need no explanation as to their usefulness, after what has been said in regard to edged tools. The best quality of stones for the most ex- peditious sharpening is the red India oilstone, but for the finer and more smoothly cutting edge the Arkansas is the best. The steel square is next to be considered. This tool is deserving of more than it is possible to find room for in this work ; but an explanation of what is marked on the square, and what should be understood by every student will be all that will be spoken of in this connection. The square recommended and the one adopted for general use, is marked No. 100. This tool is very useful to the house carpenter, the stair builder, and the millwright; but it is almost indispens- able to any mechanic, and should be understood by engineers in general. The square is shown in Figs. 30 and 31. The figures and graduations on the face of the square pertain to lumber measure, brace measure and a scale for laying out timbers to be made octagonal in form. We will first consider lumber measure as shown in Fig. 30. A knowledge of its use may be obtained by a few mo- ments' study and when once understood, is always at hand and ready for use. The following explanations are deemed sufficiently clear to give the student a full knowledge of the rule. By examining Fig. 30, we will find under the figure 12 on the outer edge of the blade, the length of the board or plank to be measured, and the answer, in feet and inches, is found under the inches in width that the board or plank measures. For example ; take a board , 9 feet long and 5 inches wide, then under the figure 12 on the second line will In case the plane is placed on the work,' as shown in Fig. 38, 22 MANUAL TRAINING be found the figure 9 which is the length of the board ; then run along the line to the figure directly under the 5 inches, (the width of the board) and you will find 3 feet and 9 inches, which is the correct answer in board measure. Fig. 31. Pig- 3"- If the material is two inches thick this result may be multiplied by two, and if three or four inches thick, multiply accordingly to get the proper solution in board or lumber measure. MANUAL TRAINING 23 If the material to be measured is longer than any figure shown on the square, it can be measured by dividing the length, and adding the results. The rule is calculated, as its name implies, for board measure or lumber one inch in thickness. It may be used in measuring timbers by multi- plying the superficial measure of one surface by the thick- ness of the timber in inches. To illustrate ; suppose a timber which is 10 inches by 14 inches by 25 feet is to be measured; for the length take 12 ft. and 13 ft.; for the width we will take 10 inches, and multiply the result by 14; by the rule a board 12 ft. long and 10 inches wide contains 10 ft. ; and a board 13 ft. long and 10 inches wide contains 10 ft. 10 in.; therefore, a board 25 ft. long, arid 10 in. wide, must contain 20 ft. 10 in. In the timber measured, we have what is equivalent to 14 such boards and we multiply 20 ft. 10 in. by 14, which gives us 291 ft. 8 inches, the correct answer. The brace rule is always placed along the center line of the tongue of the square, as shown in Fig. 30. This rule is easily understood. The figures on the left of the line rep- resent the run or the length of two sides of a right angle, while the figures on the right represent the exact length of the third side of a right-angled triangle in inches, tenths and hundredths; — or, to put it in another way, the equal numbers placed one above the other, may be considered as representing the sides of a square and the third number to the right, the length of the diagonal of that square. The exact length of a brace, from point to point, having a rise of 33 inches and a run of 33 inches would be 46.67 inches. The brace rule varies somev/hat in the matter of the runs shown on different squares ; some squares give a few brace lengths of which the runs upon the beam and the rise on the post are unequal. The rise and run of a brace are shown in Fig. 32. The octagonal scale is shown on the central division of the opposite side of the tongue from the brace rule and its use is as follows : Suppose a stick of timber ten inches square is 24 MANUAL TRAINING to be made octagonal ; make a center line which will be five inches from each edge ; set a pair of compasses, putting one point on any of -the main divisions shown on the square in this scale, and the other point on the tenth subdivision; — this Fig. 32. division marked off from the center line on each surface will give the points for the gauge line. Gauge from the corners both ways, and the lines for making the timber octagonal in its section are obtained. Always take the number of spaces or subdivisions in the scale to correspond with the number of inches square from the center line. Thus if a stick is 12 inches square, take 12 spaces on the scale; if only 6 inches square, take 6 spaces. The rule always to be observed is as follows: Set off from each side of the center line as many spaces by the octagon scale as the timber is inches square. For timbers larger in size than the number of divisions in the scale, the measurements by it may be doubled or multiplied as occasion may require. 'Fig. 33 shows an end of a timber, laid out by the above scale. This scale is a very useful one, but a more convenient and simple rule is the following: To lay ofif a square timber to be made octagonal, place the square on one flat surface of the MANUAL TRAINING 25 timber in the manner shown in Fig". 34, take the scratch awl or pencil, and mark a point against the edge of the blade on Fis. 33. the surface of the timber at the seventh inch mark, and from the adjacent corner of the timber set the marking gauge to the point marked at seven. From each corner gauge lines on each surface of the timber parallel with its length and when the corners of the timber have been worked ofif to the lines drawn, it will be octagonal in section. The diagonal scale is on the tongue of the square at its junction with the blade as shown in Fig. 35 and is used for getting measurements to i/ioo inch. The lengths of the lines between the diagonal and the perpendicular are marked on the latter; primary divisions are tenths and the junction 26 MANUAL TRAINING of the diag-onal lines with the longitudinal parallel lines enables the operator to obtain divi- isions of one hundredth parts of an inch. For example, if we wish to obtain twenty- four one hundredths, we place compasses on the dots on the fourth parallel line which covers two primary divisions and a fraction or four-tenths of the third pri- mary division, which added together make twenty-four hundredths of an inch. This scale is very easily un- derstood and needs no further explanation. All other scales on the square are simply inches and divisions of an inch. There are many problems which can be worked out on the steel square, but those explained above are marked on the square aside from the inches and divisions of an inch, and are considered most important. Fig. 35. CARPENTRY. Exercise No. i, ^iJ-t-^'-^i- IL Fig. 36. Exercise No. i, is shown in Fig-. 36 and consists of a par- allel piece two feet eig-ht inches in leno-th, four inches in width, and one inch in thickness. The work should be conducted in the following' manner. Place the material on the work bench and against the bench stop. Plane the rough surface of one side with the jack plane, after which, take the jointer or fore plane and true the surface up, making- it a true plane. Fig. 3: This may be accomplished more expeditiously by observing the following rules. Move the plane on a line parallel with the length as shown in Fig. ^7 and not as shown in Fig. 38. 28 MANUAL TRAINING the result will be invariably a warped or twisted surface. An- other point to be given consideration is the pressure downward Fig. 38. on the plane while the operator is moving it ahead in a line with the work upon starting the plane to cut as shown in Fig. 39. The downward pressure should be applied on the ^ ^a Fig. 39. front handle of the plane, and, as the tool is moved along- toward the other end of the work, the pressure should be only on the rear handle, as shown in Fig. 40. No pressure should ^= Fig. 4.0. be applied to the end of the plane which overhangs the end of the piece of work ; for when pressure is put on the overhang- MANUAL TRAINING 29 ing end the result cannot be otherwise than a rounded sur- face, as shown in Fig. 41, so that while the operator is striving to get a true surface, he is making it more untrue. Fig. 41. A beginner is very liable to make the surface warped or winding, and, his eye being untrained in the work, he finds it hard to decide when the surface is correct. In order to prove a surface use the steel square as a straight edge. Place it parallel with edge of the work, to decide when work is straight ; and place it diagonally across to determine as to a warped surface, as in Fig. 42. If the square fits in all direc- tions the surface is true. , Fig. 42. The parallel rules or two steel squares may be used to prove the surface in the manner shown in Fig. 43. When placed in this position, look across the top o.f the rules lengthwise with the work, and if the top lines of the rules appear parallel there is no warp in the surface.' To prove it by the eye requires training. A skilled workman can decide at a glance by look- ing along the surface lengthwise, and raising the end nearest 30 MANUAL TRAINING the eye until the top surface disappears, and b\ comparing the Hnes of the ends as shown in the following sketch, No. 44. If Fig 4-3. the lines of the two ends appear parallel, there is no wind or warp in the surface. After the piece is finished, so far as Fig. 44. planing is concerned, the numbered surfaces will appear as shown in Fig. 45. MANUAL TRAINING 31 After the first surface has been made perfect, it should be marked No. i. After this has been done, an adjacent edge should be made straight and square with No. i. This surface should be marked No. 2. The corner or angle formed by surfaces Nos. i and 2 constitutes the working line or edge from which all gauging and squaring should be done. With the marking gauge make a line on surface No. i four inches from the working edge, using that edge as a guide for the gauge. Place surface No. 2 downward on the bench and plane the third surface down to the line, at the same time making it square with surface No. i, which will make the piece four inches in width. This surface should be marked No. 3. Both Nos. 2 and 3 must be squared to No. i. The gauge should next be set to the thickness of the required piece, and a line be drawn on surfaces Nos. 2 and 3, using surface No. I as a guide for the marking gauge. Place surface No. I downward and proceed to plane the fourth surface to the lines drawn on Nos. 2 and 3 ; this may be done more easily by planing on one edge as shown in Fig. 46 and, when the line has ^ 1 ^ Fig. 46. FipT. 4.7. Fig. +> been reached on this edge, transfer to the other edge and plane to the line on this edge (see Fig. 47) which will leave the surface high in the center as shown in Fig. 48. Next trans- fer the plane to a central position and plane the center down to a straight line across, planing nothing ofif at the extreme edges which may be proven by applying the try square as shown in Fig. 49. This surface is to be marked No. 4. If the work has been done properly, the opposite surfaces of the piece will be parallel. 32 MANUAL TRAINING To lay out the lines on the piece as shown in Fig. ^6 it is best to proceed in the following manner. Place the try square across surface No. i near the end, with the body of the square against surface No. 2, and with the body of the o o Fig. 49. square held firmly against this edge, mark with the point of a knife a line across surface No. i and exactly parallel to the blade or tongue of the sq,uare. This is the end line from which all measurements running lengthwise with the piece must be taken. Six cross lines are drawn across in the same manner. The distances from the end line — I m 2 in 2^ in. 3^ in. 3/3 in. m. The other end line is then drawn two feet from the eight inch cross line. These lines are then to be squared around the piece always placing the try square on surface Nos, i or 2. After the cross lines are made the marking gauge must be used in marking lines on surfaces Nos. i and 4 lengthwise of the piece one-half inch apart from the eight inch line to the MANUAL TRAINING 33 last end, using surface No. 2 as a guide for the marking gauge. The cross Hues are to serve as a guide in sawing for the crosscut saw across, and the longitudinal lines as a guide for the rip saw. The ends should be sawed oft' next, being care- ful to have the saw cut come outside the line, and not over its center. Otherwise, the piece will be shorter than the required length. Next cut to the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th lines in the same manner as the first, keeping on the same side of each. Do not cut through the piece but leave one-eighth of an inch in thickness uncut. The rip sawing is next to be done, sawing on Fig. 50. the same side of each line, the saw cutting only to the center of the line. The rip saw should be used at about the angle shown in Fig. 50 and not as in Fig. 51. It may be seen readily that the saw is cutting through less material in Fig. 50 than in Fig. 51, that is to say, when a piece one inch in thickness is being ripped if the saw is held at an angle of 75 degrees the line of contact 34 MANUAL TRAINING of teeth would be about one and one-fourth inches, and in case it is held at 35 degrees it would be cutting through about two and one-half inches. Great care should be taken to keep the sides of the saw at a right angle to the surface of the piece, so as to follow the line on the bottom or fourtli surface, the same as on the top side or surface No. i. EXERCISE NO. 2. Exercise No. 2 is shown in Fig. 52 and is used on the bench to place the work on while sawing small pieces and is called a bench hook. In this exercise the use of the planes, try square, , ' " I — ' I /2 B Fig. 52. knife, marking gauge, saws, and the paring chisel is necessary. The work should proceed in the following order: plane up a piece 1234 inches long, four inches wide and one and three- fourths inches thick, in the same manner as in exercise No. I, numbering the surfaces in the same order. After this is done, draw a line with a knife near the end and measure with the rule from this line to the try square two inches and draw another line across ; then another ten inches from the first MANUAL TRAINING -35 line and next twelve inches from the first line, this will be the end line. Square all these lines around the piece. Set the marking gauge at y$, inch and gauge a line on each edge of the piece, using surface No. i as a guide for the gauge. Next set the gauge at iV^ inches and draw a line on each edge from surface No. i. Fig. 53 shows the material to cut away. Next V//////////////////A V/////////////////A A FiR. 53. use the rip saw and cut 1/16 inch away from the line so as to leave material for dressing smooth with the chisel. Rip down near to the 10 inch line on either side, keeping at the same distance from the line on each edge. Next take the back saw, and cut in the same manner as you have done the ripping 1/16 inch from the line. Cut ofif the ends with the back saw exactly to the line. The lYi inch paring chisel is next used to true and smooth the sawed surfaces to the lines. The end grain should be pared first, following the line on the top sur- face with the chisel, and the short lines on the edges after- ward. Lastly cut down the middle of the surface. For the flat surface place the piece on edge, and, with the chisel held in one hand, and the work held in position with the other, pare to the line and across the grain, leaving the flat surface still high in the center. After this, place the piece in the vise and pare the central portion down to a straight line across. Do not pare lengthwise with the grain of the wood. Test the surface with the try square. This being the first exercise where the paring chisel is necessary, great care should be taken not to, cut too deep, but while paring across put considerable down- ward pressure on the chisel with one hand, and do not allow the handle to rise or the cutting edge to dig in. If this occurs the piece will be spoiled. 36 MANUAL TRAINING- EXERCISE NO. 3. Exercise No. 3 is shown in Fig. 54 and should be done in the following manner. Plane out a piece of material 13 inches long and i^ inches square, numbering the surfaces as +. z 1 = , Fig. 54-. before. With the try square and knife draw a line at the end, and with the rule measure off the length of the splice from the first line to the try square and draw the other line. Do the same on the other end and square all lines around the piece. Set the marking gauge at 13/16 inch and gauge a line on surfaces Nos. 2 and 3, using surface Xo. i as a guide for the gauge. Fig. 55 shows the portion to be cut away. The Fig ."5. saw is now to be used to cut out the shaded portion. Cut away from the line 1/16 inch and pare down to the line with the paring chisel and make all surfaces smooth. After this is done, the piece must be taken to the instructor, to be cut MANUAL TRAINING 2,1 into two parts and put together. The marking of the joint will be according to its correctness. After the workmanship has been considered by the instructor, the two pieces must be fas- tened together with a wooden pin 5/16 inch round at the center of the I'oint. EXERCISE NO. 4. Exercise No. 4 is a right angle joint. See Fig. 56. The work must be done in the following manner. A piece of mate- rial II inches long is to be planed out \y^ inches square, ' — 'i — 1 *f ,r. l—U-J — a--' rig. 56. the surfaces to be numbered as in the preceding exercises. Place the try square across the piece i j^ inches or more from the end, with the body of the square held against surface No. i or 2. Draw a line with the knife. Square this line around the piece. Treat the other end in the same manner. Next set the marking gauge to one-half the thickness or 13-16 inch and gauge a line, using surface No. i as guide for the gauge, 38 MANUAL TRAINING on Nos. 2 and 3 lengthwise of the piece extendino- from each end to the cross Hnes drawn. Next saw out the shaded portion, as shown in Fig. 57. Saw i-t6 inch from the Hne v/////y Fig. 57. as before and pare to the hne with the paring chisel After this the piece is to be submitted to the instructor to be sawed in two pieces and a mark given on workmanship. After this the two pieces are to be put together at right angles and a 5-16 inch pin put throug-h the joint to hold them in place. The ends projecting at the angle of the joint may be dressed down to an even surface,, the length of the ends being measured off from the angle of the joint. Draw a line around and saw the ends to the line using the back saw. No dressing of the out- side surfaces is to be done after the work has been marked out and joined together. All surfaces should be straight and true on the joint if the work has been i)roperly performed. EXERCTSF. XO. 5- Exercise No. 5 is a joint similar to No. 4. but the angle of Fig. 58. the joint is 45 degrees as shown in Fig. 58. The work of MANUAL TRAINING 39 planing out the piece i;/8 inches square and 14 inches long- is to be done in the same order as in the preceding exercise. The bevel square is to be set at an angle of 45 degrees, which may be done easily by placing t'le bodv of the bevel against the edge of the blade of the steel square with the tongue of the bevel e.Ktending across the angle of the square as shown in Fig. 59. Adjust the tongue of the bevel so that one edge of the tongue is the same number of inches from the angle of the square on either edge. Next place the lievel on the piece to be laid out, with body of the bevel held firmly against sur- face No. 2 and the blade or tongue of the bevel back about 2J/2 inches from the end. Draw a knife mark along the blade of the bevel on surface No. i. Repeat this operation on the opposite end, drawing the line on surface No. 4. Square the lines across surfaces Nos. 2 and 3 and at termination of the oblique lines across surfaces Nos. i and 4. Next set the mark- ing gauge at 13-16 inch and mark lines lengthwise of piece from the ends past the cross lines on surfaces Nos. 2 and 3, using surface No. i as a guide for the gauge. Next saw outside the lines and pare the surfaces to the lines and in a straight line across. When this has been done, the piece will appear as shown in Figs. 60 and 61. The work is now Fig. 60. 40 MANUAL TRAINING to be cut into two parts at the center by the instructor and marked according to workmanship. The pieces are then placed in position and bored and pinned together with a 5-16 inch Fig. 61. round pin, to hold them in place. The pin should be placed on the center line of the angle and on a line at a right angle to the shoulder of the joint, as shown in Fig. 62. Fig. 62. MANUAL TRAINING 41 EXERCISE NO. 6. Exercise No. 6 is a model of a timber splice, and is shown in Fig. 63. This joint is adapted for use where the stress is in two directions only. The work should be done in the fol- trt Fig. 63. lowing manner. First plane a piece to the dimensions given, following the rules as in Exercise No. i. With the try square and knife draw a line across the end of the piece. With the try square on surface No. i or 2, square this line around the piece. With end of the rule placed against the tongue of the square move the try square back along the working edge until the y2 inch mark on the rule meets the end line first drawn. With the knife mark a line here. Then move the square back imtil the 3 V2 inch mark on the rule meets the first line. Draw a line at this point. Next move the square back until the 4 inch mark on the rule is reached, and draw the last line. Square all these lines around the piece and repeat the opera- tion on the other end of the piece, beginning with the end line as before. Next set the marking gauge at 13-32 inch and 42 MANUAL TRAINING gauge a line on surfaces Xos. 2 and 3 as shown at A, Fig. 64. Reset the gauge at 13-16 inch and gauge a Hue on the same surfaces as at B. Again, re-set the gauge at 1 'J-Z2 B C P Fig. (34. inches and gauge lines on the same surfaces as at C. Next saw out the shaded portion of the piece, sawing near to but not on the Hne and pare to the hues w'ith the paring chisel, being careful not to pare below the center of any line. After, this has been done the piece is to be cut into two parts by the instructor and a mark given according to the correctness of the wf)rk. If ihe joint is well made and is a good fit. the work- is to be pressed firmly together endwise in the vise and the key way laid out on each side. Work out the key way with the chisel, put the work together again and put the key in l)lace. After the joint has been keyed up. t1"'e measurements from the ends of the joint to the end line are made and squared around the piece and the ends sawed off to the lines. MANUAL TRAINING 43 EXERCISE NO. "J. Exercise No. 7 is a model of a pump rod joint and is shown in Fig. 65. This exercise appears very simple but the work must be done with g-reat care and accuracy, to produce T T '■ ■*. - 1 r Wta >'¥■, — 7 ■ . 51 • Z ' It i li J ■ Z ' Hig. 65. a good joint. Proceed in the following manner: Plane a piece to dimensions given, observing rules as in Exercise No. I. Lay out end line and measure from that for the next line, as explained in Exercise No. 6. ^Measure from the first line for the distance to the third line. Square these lines around the jiiece, _and repeat this operation on the opposite end of the piece. Next set the marking gauge at ^ inch and mark line as designated by A in Fig. 66 gauging from surface Fis. 66. No. I and marking the line on surfaces Nos. 2 and 3. Re-set the gauge at i inch and gauge a line from surface No. i on Nos. 2 and 3 as at B. Next saw out shaded portion and pare 44 MANUAL TRAINING to the lines, with paring chisel as clone in the preceding exer- cise, after which the piece must be cut into two parts by the instructor, and placed together. If the work has been prop- erly and accurately done, the joint will remain in its position without further fastening. EXERCISE NO. 8. Exercise No. 8 is a model of a joint, designed to withstand stress or strain in four directions, and is shown in Figs. 67 and 68. This ioint cannot be made to fit and at the same time Fig:. 67. have correct dimensions without observing the following rules : Plane a piece of the required length and correct size, ^ I* I ' _Ll_ Fig. 68. making opposite surfaces exactly parallel, and angles square, all surfaces being squared to No. i. Begin by laying out an end line as in Exercise No. 6, getting correct measurements from the first or end line for all cross lines. Square these lines around on all sides and repeat the operation on opposite end of piece. Next set the marking gauge at ^s of an inch MANUAL TRAINING 45 and g'aiige lines as shown at A in Fig. 69, using surface No. i as a guide and marking the Hnes on surfaces Nos. 2 and 3. Next re-set the gauge at one inch and mark Hnes on same sur- Fig. 69. faces from No. i as shown at B. Then set the bevel at the second line on surface No. i and the tongue of the bevel inter- secting the junction of the cross line No. i and the line drawn parallel to and one inch from surface No. i. Draw a line along the tongue of the bevel as shown at C in Fig. 69. With this setting of the bevel all the oblique lines on surfaces Nos. 2 and 3 may be drawn, the body of the bevel resting on sur- face No. I. The marking gauge is next set at Yi inch and lines drawn on surfaces Nos. i and 4, using surface No. 2 as a guide. See A in b^ig. 70. The gauge is next set at i ^^ iMK. 70. inches and lines drawn parallel to lines A using surface No. 2 as a guide. These lines in conjunction with the cross lines form the outline of the mortise and tenon at the end of the joint. See B-B in Fig. 70. The shaded portion is next to be sawed and pared out as in Figs. 69 and 70, when the piece is to be submitted to the instructor for inspection and to be cut into two parts and put together. After this is done the key is to be put in, the end lines are to be marked off, and the ends of the piece cut off' to the lines, with the back saw, when the work is finished. 46 MANUAL TRAINING EXERCISE NO. Q. Exercise Xo. 9 consists of a simple mortise and tenon jo^nt as shown in Fig^. 71 and 72. The work is to he done in th.*^ following- manner: l-"irst plane a piece i^s inches square, of -'* 1 . /l- -2-ft- ± ± -i*- FifT. 71. required length, observing" the rules as specified in Exercise No. 1. W ith. the knife and tr\' srjuare lay out lines across the piece as shown at A in Fig. 73. squaring the lines across from surface Xo. i. Square these lines around the piece. mz^ Fig. 73. Next set the marking gauge at yi inch and gauge lines on surfaces Nos. 2 and 3 using surface Xo. i as a guide for the gauge. See B in Fig. J},. Xext set the marking gauge at 13/S inches and mark lines parallel to lines B as shown at C. Take the back saw and saw out and pare the shaded MANUAL TRAINING 47 portion to the lines A, B, and C. This forms the tenon. Next take a hrace and a lA inch auger bit. and bore holes half through the piece on 'jurfaces Xos. 2 and 3 on shaded por- tion, see Fig. y^)- \\'ith the ilA inch and ^ inch paring chisels, pare to the lines of mortise, after which the work must be inspected by tlie instructor and cut into two parts, and put together, forming the mortise and tenon, shown in Figs. Nos. 71 and y2. KXEKcisi': X(j. 10. Exercise No. 10 consists of a double mortise and tenon joint as shown in Figs. 74 and 75. The work in this exercise is practically the same as in Exercise No. 9, but the mortise —ii li . J i fX^ X f I i- Fii and lenon are double. The lines must be laid out in the same manner and from the working surfaces, but the setting of the gauge is for different dimensions. The cross lines are the same and are squared around the piece. The setting of the gauge is as follows: 5-16 inch, 11-16 inch, 15-16 inch aiid 48 MANUAL TRAINING I 5-16 inches, as shown in Fig. 76, at A, B, C, and D, the gaug- ing being from surface No. i on Nos. 2 and 3. Next remove m^ W/ y////////. Fig. 76. with the saw, auger bit, and paring chisels, the shaded portions, when the work is ready to be inspected, sawed into two parts, and put together by the instructor. EXERCISE NO. II. Exercise No. 1 1 is a dove-tail mortise and tenon joint and is shown in Figs. 77 and 78. The work should be done as follows : Plane a piece as described in Exercise No i to Fig. 77. Fig. 78. dimensions ^4 inch by 3;}4 inches by 7 inches. With the block plane, square the ends to surfaces Nos. i and 2. Place the try square on surface No. 2 with the blade or tongue extending across No. i, 34 inch from the end. Draw a line and square it around the piece. Repeat this on the opposite end. Next set the marking gauge at 5-16 of an inch and mark a line on sur- face No. 4, at one end of the piece, from the end to the ^ inch line, ufing surface No. 2 as a guide. Next set the marking gauge at J4 inch and gauge a line on surface No. i, from the end to MANUAL TRAINING 49 the }i inch line. Without re-settinq- the gaus^e, mark a Hue on the opposite end on the end grain, using surface No. 2 as a guide. See Fig. 79 at A. Next set the gauge at >)4 inch and mark Hues as at B. Re-set the gauge at i^4 inches, and mark Hues at C. Set tiie gauge at 2 inches and mark Hues at D. -b _ c -d _6 -f Fig. 79. Set the gauge next at 3 inches and mark Unes at E. Re-set the gauge at 3J4 inches and mark hues at F. Next place the hevel square across the end on surface No. i, the tongue of the bevel resting on the end grain. Adjust the tongue so as to meet the first lines drawn on surfaces Nos. i and 4. Draw a line here with the knife. This setting of the bevel is to serve for all the other oblique lines of the mortise and tenon. The bevel is next to be placed so as to meet all the gauge lines drawn on either end and lines are to be marked with the knife. Next the try square may be placed on the end and lines marked with the knife parallel to the first gauge line and intersecting the oblique lines on the end grain. The piece will then appear W7 7T / ^777777 7 7 7 777 wm w^ mm Fi>j. 80. as in Fig. 80. The shaded portion is to be cut away. Pare 50 MANUAL TRAINING strictly to the center of all lines. Then the piece is to be sub- mitted to the instructor for his inspection, and to be cut into two parts and put together. EXERCISE NO. 12. Exercise Xo. 12 is a dove-tail mortise and tenon joint ordinarily used by cabinet makers on front corners of drawers, and is called a drawer dove-tail joint and is shown in Fig". 81. The manner of ])rocedurc in this exercise is as follows: Plane two pieces of material for the joint, one piece to be Fig. 81. fi inch bv 3^ inches by 4 inches. The other to be 5^ inch by 35^ inches by 4 inches. Xext scjuare one end of each piece and on the piece 3^^ "''^1'' thick mark a line on sur- face No. 2 as a guide. Square this line around the piece. Xext set the marking gauge at 5-16 inch and gaugfe a line on the end grain of the squared end, using surface No. 2 as a guide. Then set the gauge at 15-16 of an inch and gauge a line on the same surface with Xo. 2 as guide. Re-set to i- 9-16 inches and gauge another line on the same surface. Next MANUAL TRAINING 51 set the .e^auge at 2 3-16 inches and mark another hne from surface No. 2. Re-set at 2 13-16 inches, and mark another Hne on the same surface. With anotlicr setting of the gauge at 3 7-16 inches, gauge tlic last line. Then set at J/j inch and using surface No. 2 as a guide, with the marking gauge mark a fine line on surface No. i, crossing the first line drawn with the trv sc[uare and knife. Next place the bevel square on the end grain and adjust the tongue of the bevel so as to intersect the first line drawn on the end grain and the fine line on No. 1. This adjustment of the bevel will serve as a guide to mark all the lines on surfaces Nos. i and 4. starting from the lines on the end grain and meeting lines squared around the piece from No. 2, after which the piece will appear as in Fig. 84. Next saw and pare out with the chisel the shaded Fig. 84.. portion and keep well to tlie center of the lines in paring. Next square a line on the ^ inch thick piece on surface No. I from No. 2. and Yi inch from the trued end. Next place the •)4 inch piece in a firm position with the dressed end up and place the Yi inch piece on the end grain, with the Y^ \\'\^4 inch apart, the skew-chisel point is next used to make MANUAL TRAINING 67 incisions at the lines drawn, as shown in Figf. 116. Cut these V shaped incisions }s inch deep and round up with the heel / M li^^'4 Fig. 116. of tlie skew-chisel, observing the rule as laid down in Exercise No. 3 for cutting balls or beads. EXERCISE NO. ^. Exerci.se Xo. 5 is a series of grooves cut in a parallel cyl- inder as shown in Fig. 117. The spaces at the ends and be- tween the grooves are / 2 inch wide, and the grooves are ^ Fig. 117. inch wide and }i inch deep. The material for this exercise should be about 8 inches by i^s inches by i^/s inches. First turn a parallel cylinder i;< inches in diameter and 6^4 inches long. Set the compasses at ij^^ inches and with one point at either end mark off lines at intervals of i34 inches across the piece. Then beginning at the opposite end mark off lines in the same manner from this end. These lines will form the outlines of the grooves and spaces. Then with the y^ inch gouge, begin in the manner shown in Fig. 118. When cut- ting the left-hand half of grooves start with the gouge in the position shown at A, and when starting to cut the other half have the gouge as shown at B, never cutting more than half the "groove in one motion. When the grooves have been 68 MANUAL TRAINING formed their depth may be tested with the cahpers. The diameter at the bottom of the o^rooves should be }i inch. Fig. 118. When this diameter has l^een acquired and the curves are cut to the hues scribed, and arc symmetrical, the piece is ready to be removed from the lathe. EXERCISE NO. 6. Exercise No. 6 consists of a number of beads, cut on a parallel cylinder as shown in Fi.q-. 119. The same size of material is to be used as in Exercise No. i. First, cufofit' the Fig. 119. square corners of the piece with the gouge and reduce to I J/2 inches diameter with the skew-chisel. Square one end and mark and cut the length 6 inches. With the compasses mark oft' the beads and distances between, as shown in Fig. 1 19. With the point of the skew-chisel, make incisions J4 i"ch deep as shown in Fig. 120. With the small gouge cut out the material between the beads and with small skew-chisel MANUAL TRAINING 69 smooth and reduce to i inch diameter. With the caHpers test the diameter between the beads. With the small skew- chisel roimd np the beads as in Exercise No. 4, always keeping hf~Tsr~Kr~Nr"Kr~N Fig. 120. in mind ih- rules laid down in Exercise Xo. 3. When the beads are finished the piece may be removed from the lathe and the ends sawed off. The piece is now finished. EXERCISE xo. 7. Exercise No. 7 is shown in Fig. 121. The same size of material is necessary in this as in Exercise Xo. i, and the work is begun in the same maimer. First prodtice a parallel cylindi?r Fig. 121 iy'2 inclies in diameter b\' 6 inches in length. With the compass- es set to 3^ inch, scribe a line that distance from each end, and another one i inch from each end. Re-set the compasses at 2% inches and scribe a line from each end. Re-set again at 2^ inches and scribe a line froin each end. ^Mlen this has been done the work will appear as in Fig. 122. With B B A Fig. 122. 70 MANUAL TRAINING the 3^ inch skew-chisel make an incision Yz inch deep at A. Cut away the material between the lines A and A with the small g-ouge, finishing- with the 3^2 inch skew-chisel to Yi inch diameter as shown in Fig. 123. With the skew-chisel reduce BA ABBA AB Fig. 12. i. the diameter Y^ inch between the lines A and B as shown in Fig. 124. With the J/2 inch gouge form the curves as shown \ / ^ B / Fi 3 3 / 4-. A 3 in Figs. 125 and 126. When this has been done the work is complete. When the student has become proficient, and can Fig. 126. Fig. 125. perform the work well in the foregoing exercises with the tools intended to be used for such work he will be able to work out more difficult ones as occasion may require. MANUAL TRAINING 71 EXERCISE NO. Exercise No. 8 consists of a handle for a paring-chisel or a lathe-chisel, and is shown in Fig. 127. The material for this should be hard wood and of the length and size to ac- Fig. 127. commodate the work to be done. Place the piece in the lathe as in the preceding exercises, and with the gouge reduce the piece to the diameter of the largest portion of the handle to be made. With the skew-chisel mark a line at a distance from the end equal to the length of the ferule to be put on. With the heel of the skew-chisel reduce the portion between the end and the line drawn to the proper diameter for the ferule. The piece may then be removed from the lathe, and the ferule placed in its position, and the work returned to the lathe. With the gouge form the fillets ; form the convex curves with the heel of the skew-chisel. This piece of w^ork should now be smoothed with sand paper, and polished either with linseed- oil or shellac varnish. Remove from the lathe and cut off the end. EXERCISE NO. 9. Exercise No. 9 is shown in Fig. 128, and must be made on the fa-ce-plate. The tools to be used are the scraping-tools. 6 ^ X ■s :] Fig. 128. Material for this exercise should be 4J/^ inches square and i 12 MANUAL TRAINING inch thick. Dress one side with the plane and scribe a circle with the compasses on the dressed side 4^ inches in diameter. wSaw to the circle on the band-saw. Fasten the disc to the face-plate with the center-screw, with the dressed side against the face-plate. With the round-nose chisel remove the rough Fig. 129. edge of the disc and finish with square edge scraping-chisel to 4 inches diameter. With the same tool finish the flat siu"- face, reducing the thickness to /s inch. With the same tool Fig. 130. remove the corner to a depth of y^ inch from the face, re- ducing the face to a diameter of 2^4 inches, as shown in Fig. 129. With the same tool cut from the edge toward the center J Fig. 131. of the disc, leaving only 34 i"ch of the width of the edge and cutting to a dej)th of Vi^ inch, as shown in Fig. 130. With the round-nose scraping-tool form the concave curve as shown £L in Fig. 131. Fig. 132. Finally, with the narrow square edge scraping- tool round the corner to form a quarter-round bead, as shown in Fig. 132. MANUAL TRAINING 11 EXERCISE XO. 10. Exercise Xo. lo is a small picture frame, a cross section of which is shown in Fig\ 133. The material for this exercise should ]■)(? 7 inches by 7 inches by i inch. To prepare it for Fis. 133. the lathe proceed in the same manner as in the preceding- ex- ercise, except that it is unnecessary to dress with the plane. Scribe a circle on one rough side 6Y\ inches in diameter and saw to the circle with band-saw. Attach to the face-plate by the center-screw and reduce the edge of disc with the scrap- ing-tools until a diameter of 6^ inches is obtained. With the square edge tool face ofif the flat side and cut with the same tool to the shape shown in Fig. 134. The opening shown Fig 134.. in iMg. 134 is to be 4V2 inches across with a depth of >4 '"ch. After this cut has been made, remove the piece from the face- plate and attach to the center-screw another disc, one hav- ing a diameter greater than 4>^ inches. Face this off with the square edge tool, and reduce the diameter to 43/ inches. Place the piece on this disc in the manner shown in Fig. 135. 74 MANUAL TRAINING A good fit is necessary to retain the price ni its proper po- sition until the work is finished. Next reduce the piece to a thickness of Js inch. This is to be done with the square edge scraping-tool. With the diamond-point or side-tool remove the center of disc as is shown in Fig. 136. Fig. 136. The opening should be 3)4 inches across, and the width of material remaining, i^ inches. Next, with the square edge chisel, cut away the corners to a depth of ^4 inch from the face and 7-16 inch from both inside and outside edges. Then the piece will appear as in Fig. 137, a portion 3^ inch in width and 34 inch in height remaining at the center of face. This projecting portion may now be rounded up with the square edge chisel, as shown in Fig. 138, which forms a bead. After Fig. 137. Fig. 138. Fig. 139. this the concave curves may be cut with the round-nose chisel, leaving a margin of ys inch on either side of the bead and cutting to depth of 34 inch in a direction toward the face- plate. A section of the work will then appear as in Fig. 139. The piece may now be smoothed with sand-paper and polished with oil or shellac, and the frame is complete. MANUAL TRAINING 75 EXERCISE NO. II. Exercise No. ii is shown in Fig. 140. The stock for this exercise should be 4 inches by 4 inches by 6 inches. Attach Fig. 140. to face-plate endwise by center-screw and trne up with gouge and skew-chisel to the diameter of the largest portion of the exercise which is 3>< inches. With the jxiint of the skcw- Fig. 141. chisel, square the end. Proceed with the round-nose chisel to cut out the inside of cup as shown in Fig. 141. After the inside -6 MANUAL TRAIXIXG of cup lias been finished, and polished with the oil or shellac, the lines marking the distances from bottom to top are to be measured, and marked with the compasses. Next, with the point of skew-chisel and small gouge, remove the portion as shown in Fig. 142. The portion outside of dotted lines may be cut away with the gouge and square edge scraping-tool. \Mien th.is has been done the piece will appear as in Fig. 143. The stem may next be formed with the gouge, the round-nose and diamond-point scraping-chisels. The exercise will then MANUAL. TRAINING 17 appear as in Fig-. 144. The base is the only portion remain- ing to be fornied. The cutting off at the bottom Hne is done with the point of the skew-chisel. The edge of the bottom is V\s. l-i-i. smoothed with the square edge scraping-tool. Sandpaper and polish the outside, and the work is ready to be removed from the lathe. 78 MANUAL TRAINING EXERCISE NO. 12. Exercise No. 12 is shown in Fig. 145, and is a cup or urn similar to Exercise No. II, except that the angles and curves are slightly dif- ferent and the urn has a cov- er. Two pieces are neces- sary' to complete this exer- cise. For the cup the same size material is used as in Exercise No. ii, and is at- tached to the face-plate in the same manner. Begin turning by roughening off with the gouge and finishing to 3V2 inches diameter with the skew-chisel. Next square the end with the point of the skew-chisel, and turn out the inside of cuj) with the round- nose chisel to a diameter of Fig. 14.5. 2 y?, inches. When this is done cut the seat for the cover with the square-end scraping- J — ^^ ~ \ \ Fig. 14.6. MANUAL TRAINING 79 tool, when the piece will appear as in Fig. 146. Next mark off the lines from the top to the bottom of the cup as shown in Fig. 146. With the point of skew-chisel, make incisions as shown in Fig. 147, and reduce the size of piece at this point to 1^4 Fig. 147. inches. With the point of skew-chisel, next make an incision 1-16 inch in depth, as shown at A, Fig. 147, awd reduce diam- eter of body of cup to 3^ inches as at B. With the heel of :f.5;\^.^r^ B B Fig. 148. skew-chisel, next form the curve of outside of bowl, as shown in Fig. 148. With the small gouge, next cut fillet in the stem, 8o MANUAL TRAINING as at A, Fig-. 148. With the skew-chisel, remove the portion marked B, leaving the diameter 2^4 inches. With the small gouge, next form the compound curves in the stem, below the fillet, when the piece will appear as in Fig 149. With Kig. 149. the point of the chisel, next make an incision at the last line, and with the square edge scraping-tool, reduce the diameter of the base to 3 inches. Xext sandpaper and polish. The work is then to be cut off at the bottom with the point of skew chisel, and this piece of the exercise is complete. The other portion of the exercise is the cover, and requires material 4 inches by 4 inches by 6 inches. This piece is to be attached to the face-plate in the same manner as the pre- MANUAL TRAINING 8i ceding half and the corners reduced to 3 1-16 inches with the gouge and skew chisel. Square the end with the point of skew chisel and proceed with the round-nose chisel to remove the inside portion of cover as shown in Fig. 150. With the point of skew chisel, next mark a line 54 inch from the end. Afark another line at the terminus of compound curves of the outside of cover, and others for the acorn or handle on top of cover. With the point of skew chisel make incision at the second line as shown in Fig. 151. With the gouge next form the curves of the outside of cover, when the work will Fig. 152. appear as in Fig. 152. The next step is to sandpaper and polish the cover as it will be too frail and not rigid enough 82 MANUAL TRAINING to stand the pressure of polishing- after the acorn has been formed. After the polishing, form the acorn or handle with the small skew chisel and gouge, leaving a small stem not cut off to retain the work on the face-plate until the acorn or handle of cover can be sandpapered and polished. After this, cut off the stem and the work of this exercise is complete. The foregoing exercises in wood-turning will be sufficient to demonstrate the use of all the principal tools in wood-turn- ing and to prepare the student for any exercise he may be given in pattern work. THIRD PART. PATTERN MAKING. Of the different kinds of wood serviceable to the pattern maker soft white pine is for many reasons the best. It should be of the best quahty, straight grained and free from knots. It is then easy to work in any direction, and possesses at the same time sufficient strength for all but the most delicate kinds of work, and has, besides, the quality of cheapness to recom- mend it. Care taken in its selection at the lumber yard will be amply repaid in the pattern shop. When it is straight grained the marks left by the saw will show an even roughness throughout the whole length of the plank and the rougher the appearance the softer and better for the purpose of the pattern maker. That which saws comparatively smooth will be found hard and troublesome to work. If the plank has an uneven appearance, rough in some places and smooth in others, the grain is crooked, and, in planing it, the grain tears up and a smooth surface cannot be obtained. The superiority of pine for pattern making, however, is not maintained when we come to fine and delicate patterns or those requiring great durability. When patterns are required for fine work, from which a great many castings are to be made, a pattern wherefrom to cast an iron pattern must be made. If pine were employed, it would not only wear out rapidly, but would soon warp and become useless. It is true that a pine pattern will straighten more easily than one made of hard wood, but its sphere of usefulness in fine patterns is, for the above reasons, somewhat limited. Iron patterns are very desirable on account of their durability and because thev leave the sand easily and cleanly, and because they do not warp. They are also less liable dian the wooden 84 MANUAL TRAINING ones to give way to the sand, while the latter is being- rammed around them. l)y the moulder, a defect that is often experi- enced with light patterns, especially if they are made of pine. Iron patterns, however, are expensive, and therefore it is that mahogany is extensively used for fine or durable ])attern work. Other woods are sometimes employed, because they stand the rough usage . of the foundry better and retain the sharp corners better than the pine. In case pine is used, the corners become rounded in time, and impair the appearance of the casting. IMahogany is not liable to warp nor subject to decay, and is for these reasons the most desirable of all woods for pattern making. There are various kinds of mahogfany, but that known as "South American" is most used for patterns. Next to mahogany we may rank cherry, which is a very dur- able wood, but more liable to twist or warp than mahogany and is somewhat harsh to the tool's edge. If, however, it is stored and well seasoned before being used, reliable patterns may be made from it. Small patterns and core boxes, however, may be made successfully from hard maple The one property in all timl^er to be specially guarded against is this tendency to warp, bend, expand and contract, according to the amount of humidity in the atmosphere. Un- der ordinary circumstances, we shall be right in supposing- moisture to be given off constantly from all exposed surfaces of timber. Therefore, lumber stored in the pattern shop should be placed in a rack, so contrived that the planks do not touch one another, so that the air can circulate between the planks and drv all surfaces as nearly alike as possible. If a plank newly planed be lying on the bench, on its flat side, the moist- m-e will be given off freely from the upper'surface, but on the under surface will be confined between the bench and the plank. The result will be that the plank planed straight and left lying as described will be found, even in an hour, to be curved, from the contraction of the upper surface, due to the extra expos- MANUAL TRAINING 8.; ure. See Fig. 153. Therefore it is that kimber newly planed should be stored on end or placed on its edge. Lumber ex- pands and contracts with considerable force across the grain. Fig. 153. Hence, if a piece, even of dry plank, be rigidly held and confined at the edges, it will shrink and rend in twain, often wdth a loud report. There is no appreciable alteration length- wise from the above causes. If two pieces are glued together in such a manner that the grain of one crosses that of the other, they can never be relied upon to hold safely. The shrinkage, expansion, and warping of timber may perhaps be better understood by considering as follows. The pores of the wood run lengthwdse or with the grain, and hence, the moisture contained in these pores passes off more readilv endwise or from any surface on which the ])ores ter- minate. Then again, the wood shrinks precisely in the propor- tion in w^hich the moisture leaves it, and, if we have full knowl- edge of the direction of the grain, and of the position in which a piece of limber stands or lies, we can predict in which direc- tion it will warp. Thoroughly seasoning the timber will not remove its tendency to warp. For no matter how long and carefully timber has been dried or seasoned, it undergoes con- siderable transformation of shape, as soon as much of its sur- face has been removed, making it appear that the seasoning or drying process takes place mainly at the outer surfaces If we take a thoroughly seasoned piece of wood three inches 86 MANUAL TRAINING square and one foot long, and cut it into strips one Inch square, the pieces will warp, and after a time if we take these one inch strips and cut them into strips ^4 of an inch square, these will again warp : and no matter what pains may be taken with these last strips to season them and let them assume their new shape, if we cut them into thin veneers, the warping process would again set in. It is well, therefore, in particular work, to cut out roughl}- the various parts of the pattern, so that while some parts are being worked upon, the others may be assuming their new shape and become less liable to warp after being worked up in the pattern. There are some essential rules, which must be known to the student, before he begins work on the pattern. Namely, those regarding draft, shrinkage and allowance for finish, as well as for shellacking and finishing. B}^ draft in pattern practice is meant the allowance the pattern maker makes for the assistance of the moulder, to en- able him to remove the pattern after it has been rammed up in the sand. Fig. 154 will give an idea of what is meant by draft. This figure represents a cube 12 inches square to be made of iron. The dimensions of the pattern must be }i inch less at the bottom than at the top. In this case the bottom would be 11 yi inches and furnish a draft of }i inch in twelve. This allowance should be made on the vertical sides of all pat- terns, for otherwise, the moulder would Fig. 154. experience trouble in removing the pat- tern from the sand after having molded it. MANUAL TRAINING 87 Allowance for shrinkage means that the pattern must be made as much larger in every direction as the metal will shrink in cooling after the casting is made, thereby leaving the cast- ing true to the dimensions given in the drawing. This allow- ance in ordinary cast iron is }i inch in 12 inches. This is made easy for the pattern maker by the use of the shrinkage rule. This rule is 24}^ inches long, standard measure, and is divided in the same manner as the standard rule into inches and subdivisions of an inch. Patterns for brass castings re- quire an allowange of 3-16 inch in 12 inches. Rules for shellacking and finishing are as follows : A pat- tern to be cast in iron should be varnished black and the core prints }ellow. For brass the ])attcrn should be yellow, and the core prints black. Tn applying the varnish to the pattern,, personal instruction is deemed necessary. Allowance for fin- ish of the casting must be made in accordance with drawings and specifications. Ordinarily the allowance for finish in iron is % inch on each surface, where finish is required, and 1-16 inch on brass castings. MANUAL TRAINING EXERCISE NO. I. Exercise No. i in pattern making is a hand face-plate and is shown in Fig. 155. Add % inch to the thickness of the plate to allow for finish of the casting at F. Plane out the plate ?•» -" =— / -# Fig. 1,5,5. to the required thickness and give the edges a draft toward the handle of i:)late. Dress out the handle to the required size, giving it draft on its sides. Glue and nail handle to plate. With a piece of sand paper folded tightly around a true sur- faced block, sandpaper smoothly all surfaces of pattern, be- ing careful to keep all surfaces and angles true and not round- ing or wearing away the corners. This pattern is to be cast in iron and must be varnished black. After the first coat of varnish is dry, sandpaper all surfaces lightly until smooth, being careful not to remove the varnish with the sand paper. When smooth varnish again and repeat the above operation until a proper finish is obtained. MANUAL TRAINING 89 EXERCISE NO. 2. Exercise No. 2 is shown in Fig. 156. The material re- quired in this exercise should be 6l^ inches by 2>4 inches by 2 inches. First plane the bottom surface to a true plane and Fig. 156. mark No. i. Square No. 2 to No. i. Gauge a line on surface No. I, using No. 2 as a guide for the gauge. Plane the third side to the line made on No. i, s(|uaring it to No. i. With the try square and knife mark a line around one end. Dress the end square to the line with the chisel or block plane. Next measure the length 6 inches from the squared end and mark a line around this end and dress to the line. With surface No. I as guide, and the gauge set at 2% inches, mark a line on surface No. 2. Re-set the marking gauge at Yj inch and gauge a line on surface No. 3, using surface No. I as a guide. Next set the compasses at 74 inch. Place a small block of wood against surface No. 2, and even with the surface of one end ; place one point of the compasses at the temiinus of the gauge line on surface No. 2, the other in the joint fomied by the small block and the pattern. Using this improvised center, scribe a quarter circle on the end of piece beginning at the terminus of the gauge line. Next transfer the block to surface No. 3 and repeat the operation starting the quarter circle at the terminus of the gauge line on surface No. 3 and meeting the first quarter circle drawn, thus forming a compound curve. Repeat this operation on the other end, and the fourth surface is ready to be dressed with the gouge and chisel. Dress the concave surface to the lines with the gouire and the convex sur- 90 MANUAL TRAINING face with the chisel. Sandpaper tlie concave with the paper held firmly around a round sand paper block and lengthwise with the grain. The convex i? to be sandpapered with the paper folded and sprung around the surface. The flat surfaces are to be sandpapered with the paper folded closely around a true and flat surfaced block, being careful not to wear away the sharp corners of the pattern. After the pattern has been shellacked and polished as in Xo. i, it is ready for the moulder. Both Exercises No. i and Xo. 2 are called plain ]:)atterns for the reason that when they are moulded the mould is called a plain mould. In these cases the mould is formed in the lower portion or drag of the flask. In the following exercises the mould is formed in both the lower and upper halves of the flask and for this reason patterns are divided at the center. EXERCISE NO. 3. Exercise X^o. 3 is shown in Fig. 157 and is a hollow cylin- der 2^/2 inches in diameter and 6 inches in length having an opening through the center 154 inches in diameter. The metal Fig. 157. is to be 5/g inch in thickness. To form this casting a core must be used, hence, a box in which to form the core must be made as well as the pattern. Material for this exercise must be 10 inches or more in length and i^^ inches by 2;54 inches. Two pieces of this size are necessary. Dress both pieces to a true plane on the widest surfaces. Place the dressed surfaces together and fasten at the ends with screws. Mark the center across piece on one side ; with the auger bit bore holes through one-half of the piece and one-half inch into the MANUAL TRAINING 91 other half 1]/^ inches each way from the center Hne ; place dowel pins through first half extending- Vz inch into second half. The piece will then appear as in Fig. 158. The piece is -2i- \0 Fig. 158. now ready to be placed in the lathe and turned to the given diameter. Mark a line at the center between the dowel pins. Measure from the center line each way with the comi)asses and scribe a light line to mark the end of the pattern. With the skew chisel next luake incisions at the end lines and near the screws holding the pieces together. Reduce the diameter at the ends to the inside dimensions of the cylinder, i'4 inches, when the piece will a]ipear as in Fig. 159. Make a |[V— Fig. 159. deep cut line on the 1>4 inch portions. I '4 inches from end of the pattern. Sandpaper and smooth the piece and varnish the 1 '4 inch portion yellow, and the body of the pattern black. The work of polishing patterns in the lathe may be done most neatly by using a piece of cloth on the shellac before it has dried, removing all the varnish that the cloth will remove by pressure. A verv smooth finish may be obtained in this man- ner, but the more ordinary method is to allow the varnish to drv and then smooth with sand paper. Remove the work from the lathe and cut ofif the ends and varnish again, and when dry 92 MANUAL TRAINING the pattern is finished, and will appear as in Fig i6o. The projecting ends 1^4 inches in diameter are called core prints and form a place in the mould in which to place the core. Ma- -«— l4-»-' 6 **—i^ — Fig. 160. terial for the core bo.x should be two pieces SjA inches by 3 inches by ij4 inches. Place the two pieces together as was done with the pattern, finished surfaces together, clamp in the vise and bore and dowel in the same manner as for the jiattcrn except that the dowels ^shoukl be near the edge. Joint one e(\ge and square the ends, dressing end finished last until the length of the two pieces is 83^^ inches, when the work will appear as in Fig. 161. Next, open the pieces, set the gauge at 8^- J Fig. 161. Yj inch and scribe a line on the inside surfaces of both, using the jointed edges as a guide. Re-set the gauge at i^ inches and mark another line on each piece parallel to the jointed edge. Place the pieces together and with the compasses scribe a circle on each end between the points at which the gauge lines terminate, the ])oints of radius being on the parting lines of the two pieces. Separate the pieces and remove the portion inside the circles and between the gauge lines with the paring gouge, allowing sufficient for sandpapering. Sand- paper with the two parts held finnly together and with the sandpaper wrapped closely around a cylindrical and parallel MANUAL TRAINING 93 sandpaper block. Sandpaper the ends until they are smooth. Varnish and poHsh the ends and inside of box when it will appear as in Fig. 162. The core prints on the pattern and the dotted lines in Fig. 160 represent the size of the core moulded i Fig. 162. in this core box and placed in the mould after the pattern has been removed. The portion outside of dotted lines repre- sents the space left for the metal, which, forming around the core, becomes a hollow cylinder. 94 MANUAL TRAINING EXERCISE NO. 4. Exercise No. 4 as shown in Fig. 163 is an open end wrench. The material for this pattern shonld be lo inches by 2^/2 inches by Js iiit-'h. dressed, jointed on one edge. With the marking . 24 * Fig. 163. F~ig. 164. Fig. 165. MANUAL TRAINING 95 gauge, mark a line on both the wide surfaces at the center,' using the jointeci edge as a guide. With the knife and try square mark a hue across the surface il^ inches from one end and continue hne around on opposite side. Measure off and mark a line on opposite end 7^/2 inches from first cross line drawn. The points where these lines cross the center line will be the points of radius for the circle outlining the head and the end of handle. Set the compasses at i>-^ inches and scribe a circle on both sides of one end. This is the outline of the head. Set the compasses at ?« inch and scribe a half circle on both sides of the other end. using the points where the lines cross as a radial point. With the compasses set at 34 inch place one point on the center line, and. where the out- line of the head crosses the center line, mark points on each side of center line. These points arc to give the width at the widest portion of the handle. With a straight edge and knife mark lines from these points tangent to the half circle outlining the end of handle. Draw these lines on both sides. With the compasses set at j7-i6 incli mark points on each side of center line on both sides of the head. From the jointed edge set the marking gauge at the last point marked and mark lines parallel with the center line beginning at the circum- ference of circle and extending to the cross lines. With the compasses set at ?.s inch, place one point at the juncture of the last gauge line and the cross line, the other resting on the center line and between the last lines drawn. Using the latter position as a center, mark a portion of a circle from one juncture to the other, thus forming the outline of the open- ing in the end of the head when the lines on the piece will appear as in Fig. 164. The ^ inch auger bit may next be used in removing the portion to be cut away between jaws, being careful to cut near the line. With the band saw next cut along the lines of the jaws. Leave enough material so that the opening may be pared to a smooth surface with the chisel and goug-e. Cut to the lines on each side and afterward straigliten the surfaces across. With the sand paper give the MANUAL TRAINING opening a little draft. With the band saw cut near the outline and afterward pare to the line with the chisel. This properly done the outline of the wrench is formed. Next, mark point near the head on the edge of the handle % inch from the broad surfaces to designate the thickness of the handle. At the end of the handle where the cross lines terminate mark other points 3-16 inch from the broad surfaces. With a straight edge and knife mark lines from point to point the length of handle. This gives the taper of the handle. Then, with the paring chisel remove the portion outside of lines, cutting true to the lines and straightening across, leave ys inch next to the outlines of the head to afterward form a fillet w'here the handle and head join. The piece will now appear as in Fig. 165. The handle has now the required dimensions in both outlines and must be kept so and not reduced in round- ing up. The handle may be worked to an elliptical form by chamfering at the corners until a sectional view appears as in Fig. 166. \\'hen the handle has reached this stage, remove Fig. lOO. the corners or angles evenly. This will make it easy to keep the handle symmetrical in form. Form the fillet at the juncture of the head and handle with a knife or gouge. Sandpaper the handle lengthwise with the paper folded and sprung around the work. Use the sand paper on a block for fiat surfaces. Preserve all sharp corners. The pattern is now ready for shellac and finishing. MANUAL TRAINING 97 EXERCISE NO. 5. Exercise No. 5 consists of a small hand wheel as shown in Fig. 167. To construct this pattern properlx' the ring should he built separately and the arms inserted after the ring is Fig. 167. completed. The ring is 6 inches in diameter and ys inch round. To construct the ring proceed in the following man- g8 MANUAL TRAINING ner : Scribe a circle on a piece of soft pine % inch thick and 6% inches in diameter. Saw to the circle on the band saw and attach to the small face-plate by center screw. Face lip the disc in the lathe. With the compasses lay out on j4- inch stock one-fourth of the ring, allowing stock for turning. The outside radius should be 3^4 inches and the inside radius 1% inches. Saw out this segment for a pattern. Use this to mark out 7 others and saw out to the lines. Join these together endwise around the circumference of the face-plate. Glue the joints and attach to the face-plate by screws from the back. Place pa])er between the segments and the face-plate to prevent the ring from being glued to the latter. When one set or course of segments is complete, place the face-plate on the lathe and turn the face of segments true and straight across. Dress one side- of the other four pieces and glue on the second course, placing this set of joints between the joints of the first course. Clamping one course to the other with hand screws, until the glue is dry and hard. The dogs or binders as shown in Fig. 168 must be used in drawing together Fig. 1.'.8. the end joints of segments and should be left in position until the glue is dry. When the glue is w^ell set, remove the clamps and dogs and place in the lathe and proceed to turn the ring- in the following manner : With the square edge scraping tool remove the flat face of the outer course of segments until its thickness is 7-16 inch. Turn outside diameter to 6 inches and the inside to 4^4 MANUAL TRAINING 99 inches. With the same tool remove the corners until the out- side course of segments in section would form one-half of an octagon as shown in Fig. 169. Next remove the corners and Fig. 1<>9. form a half circle of the section of the first course, when the work will appear as in Fig. 170. Remove the screws and the ring from the face-plate and with the Fig. 170. s((uare edge scraping tool cut out the edge of disc until the center appears as in Fig. 171 and is of proper diameter A for fhe ring to fit tightly over. Place the turned side of ring next to face-plate and press firmly in position when the L ofC. MANUAL TRAINING piece will appear as in Fig. 172. With the ring in this posi- tion it may be finished to the proper dimensions with the square edge scraping tool. When sand-papered, varnished and pol- Fig. 172. ished, the ring will be complete. Before removing the work from the face-j)late, mark a line at the point marked A, in Fig. 173, with a sharp point of the compasses. This line is for the Fig. 173. purpose of centering the hub, that is, locating its center on the arms after they are inserted. Remove the ring from the face-plate and it is ready for the arms. Dress out a piece 7-16 inch in thickness and 1^/2 inches wide and of proper length for the arms. Set the compasses to the radius of the circle marked on the ring and from the center of this piece mark lines on each end of the piece to correspond with the centering circle. Cut to this line and place the piece in position on ring, and mark at the edge of piece to outline the recess or pocket to be cut in ring to receive the arms. Cut out to the centering circle and to the lines marked when the piece was in position on the ring, cutting half way through the ring. Place the piece in position in pockets cut, when it will appear as in Fig. 174. Next turn the hub to the dimensions given. Scribe a circle at the center on arms, the size of hub, and place Fig. 1 7+. hub in its proper position. See Fig. 175. With the paring chisel and knife reduce the arms to an elliptical form, leaving fillets where the arms enter the ring. Sandpaper the arms, shcllack and polish. MANUAL TRAINING .EXERCISE NO. 6. Exercise No. 6 is a base for a small jack-screw and is shown in Fig-. 176. This pattern may be made in one piece and cast in a plain mold. The position to be bottom upward vviien cast. The material for the pattern should be two pieces each 5J/2 inches by 53^2 inches by 2 inches. Dress one side of each piece and glue together the dressed surfaces. When the glue is dry dress one broad surface of the glued pieces. With the compasses set at 2^i inches scribe a circle 5)4 inches in diameter on the dressed surface. Saw to this circle on the band saw. Attach to the small face-plate w^ith the center screw, and turn the concave surface with the round-nose scraping tool and the convex with the square edge tool. To get the curves correctly in this pattern and core box, the work should be tested by templets, which show the curves outside and in- side of the casting to be made from the pattern. Otherwise, the proper thickness of the metal may not be obtained. When the curves are perfect on the outside surface, sandpaper and MANUAL TRAINING 103 polish. Remove from the lathe and turn prints for each end of the pattern to correspond with the size of the openings in ' — - 1 - — ► 1' i ♦ ■ Fig. 177. Fig. 178. the ends of the casting-. The small print on the top of pattern should he i inch in diameter and r inch in height and attached to the pattern as shown in Fig. 177. Fig. 179. 104 MANUAL TRAINING The hole in the pattern should be bored at the center. The larger print should be 2^ inches in diameter and }i inch in thickness, with a dowel at the center. The diameter at the top should be ^4 inch less than at the base of print. See Section No. 1. No. 4. Fig. 180. Fig. 178. These prints are to be varnished yellow. When the prints are on the pattern, the pattern will appear as in Fig. 179. The core to be formed in the box to be made is outlined MANUAL TRAINING 105 bv the prints on the pattern and the dotted lines in Fig. 179. A core box to form one-half of the cor^ will be sufficient. Construction of the box may be best accomplished by making it in sections as shown in Fig. 180. Section No. i may be done most advantageously by laying out the lines with the compasses and square and paring out with the gouge. No. 2. may be attached to the face-plate and turned out with the round-nose scraping tool, using the templet to test the curves. Nos. 3 and 4 may be done either on the face-plate or cut out with the gouge. When the pieces are all formed glue the parts together, sandpaper and varnish and the box is ready for the foundry. The core box will form a half-round core and two are needed to form the complete core. EXERCISE NO. J. Exercise 7 is an elbow pipe coupling and is shown in Fig. 181. The size of the pipe this elbow is to accommodate is lYo inches inside and i 15-16 inches outside measurement, al- Fig. 181. lowance to be made for thread cutting on the inside of elbow. To construct this pattern proceed in the following manner. Saw a piece 12 inches by 3 inches by i]/. inches. Plane one side true; saw the piece in two parts and place the dressed surfaces to- io6 MANUAL TRAINING gether and fasten at the ends with screws. The piece w^ill appear as in Fig. 182. Bore holes and ])lace 3/^ inch dowel Fig. 182. AAA A ' 1 ■" 1 1 i I V -' >-' 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 El 1 1 1 1 1 t 1 1 1 1 1 ti t/ 1 1 p ^- V7 -IK." X -"'s XI4X •''s X l\./ 1 • 1 1 i ' / \ 1 • iJ "1 1 , 1 1 1 1 r., • i_ 1 N / '--' Fig. 1»3. MANUAL TRAINING 107 pins ^y'l inches apart as shown by dotted lines in Fig. 182. Place the piece in the lathe and reduce to 2^ inches diameter. With the compasses mark lines on the piece as shown at A, 1 ' 1 ! f Y Y^ >v 1 J •-J ' 1 rr' '.-^ ' 1 ^> h 1 ' I'J C3 v^^ I--, *r3 Ct "9. 'i La aJ y Fig. 184. Fig'. 183. With the small skew chisel cut away and reduce the diameter to i.l^ inches between the lines which are i>2 inches apart. Sandpaper and varnish this portion yellow. Fig. 185. Next, form with the skew chisel the beads and varnish them io8 MANUAL TRAINING black. The piece will then appear as in Fig. 184. Cut off the ends at the core prints and cut pieces into two parts, when they will appear as in Fig. 185. Mark out with the com- passes and saw on the band saw a disc 2 inches thick and 6 inches in diameter. Place this on the face-plate and turn to the shape shown in Fig. 186. Cut out of this two quadrants Fig. 186. and glue to the pieces previously formed and the work will then appear as in Fig. 187. When the piece has been properly sandpapered and varnished it is complete. The core box for this pattern should be made in the following manner. Se- lect a piece of material i>< inches in thickness and 4 inches by 6 inches and lay out as shown in Fig. 188. When the laying out has been done as is shown in the sketch, cut off the ends of piece to the oblique lines marked A-A in Fig. 188. Square these ends to surface No. i, the surface on which the lines are. With the compasses scribe a line on the ends MANUAL TRAINING 109 Fig. 188. no MANUAL TRAINING between the lines which are V/z inches apart. \\"\\\\ the paring goug-e and carving tool or outside ground gouge, work out the lines to a depth equal to half the distance between the lines. The sectional view of the core box will then be a half circle. This half circle may be proven by the try square. Sandpaper the inside of box and when the ends have been put on, the inside and top of box should be varnished in the same manner as the pattern. This core box forms onlv one- half of the core. However, the core maker is able to form a whole core from a half core box, by pasting together. EXERCISE NO. 8. Exercise No. 8 is a pattern for a small jiullev as shown in Fig. 189. This pattern should be made as follows: Saw on the band saw a disc y^ inch in thickness and 63/ inches in Fig. 189. diameter. Place this on the face-plate of the lathe and turn up its face. Dress material for the arms of the pulley to 34 inch in thickness and 23^:4 inches in width and 3^ inches in MANUAL TRAINING length. Eight pieces will be required to form the arms. Place four of them on the face-plate in the manner shown in Fig. Fig. 190. 190 and attach to face-plate with nails near the edge of pieces. Glue the pieces together so as to form one piece. Place paper Fig. 191. on face-plate before glueing, to prevent glueing to plate. Saw MANUAL TRAINING out hubs to glue on at the center of arms. The pieces will appear as in Fig. 191. With the compasses, next lay out a pattern for the segments of the rim of the pulley as shown in Fig. 192. Place these pieces on the face-plate in the manner Fig. 192. shown in Fig. 193. The segments must be fitted over the arms and ends joined on the arms. Glue ends together and to the H ±r Fig. 193. arms. Clamp together with a dog and small hand screw until dry. Place the piece on the lathe spindle and with the square edge scraping tool face off the rim until true, when it is ready for the next course or layer to be glued on. Dress one MANUAL TRAINING 113 side of the pieces to be glued on. Dress the ends smoothly and glue on first piece with its center directly over one of the joints in the first course. Clamp down firmly with two small hand screws. Fit ends of the next piece so as to rest evenly around the rim ; glue and clamp the ends together with a dog, and clamp down piece with hand screws as before. Continue this course around until the circle is complete, and the piece will appear as shown in Fig. 194. When the glue is dry rc- Fig. 194.. move the clamps. Place the piece on the lathe spindle and turn the rim and hub of this half of the pattern. The other half may be constructed in the same manner after the first has been turned and removed from the face-plate. The arms of the ])ulley may next be marked out on one-half of the pattern and cut to the line with the chisel and gouge, after which the two must be doweled together with pins through two of the pulley arms and the ^second half of pattern dressed to the same form as the first. Then round the arms to an elliptical form as shown in Fig. 189. Sandpaper and varnish the pattern and it will be ready to receive the core prints. The core prints. 114 MANUAL TRAINING I inch in diameter and i inch in height, are to be doweled on at the center of the hub on outside end of each half of the hub. They should be exactly at the center where the opening for the shaft is to be in the hub of the pulley. When the core i)rints are in place the pattern is complete. A sectional view of the hub and core ])rints is shown in Fig. 195. The dotted lines Fig. 195. through the hub show the size of the opening to be cored through the hub. The core box to form the core must next be constructed. The core box must be made to mould a core one inch in diameter and of a length to correspond with the length of the hub, with the height of core prints added. This would be: hub 3 inches and the height of prints each one inch, making the total length of core box 5 inches. The core box should be made by doweling together two pieces each 4 inches in length, laying out the inside of core box on the ends and gaug- ing lines on the inside surfaces. Take the two pieces apart and work out insides to the lines with the Yi inch paring gouge and afterward smooth with sand paper on a mandrel to one inch in diameter. Next dress a piece one inch in thickness and 6 inches long and 15/2 inches in width. Cut the piece into two parts and place the dressed edges together. Lay out the shape of the tapered core print, and work out with the gouge and MANUAL TRAINING 115 sandpaper inside surfaces. Fasten these pieces to one end of core box with nails and g"lue. Sand paper the ends and varnish 1 ! '■^. '^ [J Fig. 196. and finish inside and ends. The core box is now com]:)lete and will appear as shown in Fig. 196. EXERCISE NO. 9. Exercise No. 9 is a pattern for a small sheave or pullev to carry a rope or cable and is shown in Fig-. 197. This pat- tern must be made in two parts, the same as the one in Exer- Fi.tT. 197. cise No. 8. However, it must be moulded in a different man- ner. The pattern must be formed on the lathe. First saw out Ii6 MANUAL TRAINING on the band saw two disks each 6j4 inches in diameter and ^ inch in thickness. With one side dressed smooth, place each on the lathe and turn to the prescribed form with the round-nose and square edge scraping- tools. Smooth with sand paper and finish with varnish. Remove from the lathe and dowel the two pieces together. Lay out the four one inch openings to be cut through the web of the sheave and work out separately with the auger bit and gouge. Sandpaper with the paper on a tapered mandrel to give the openings a draft toward the parting line of the pattern. Varnish and finish inside of openings. Place core prints on the hub in the same manner as in the preceding exercise and the pattern is finished. The core box is to be made in the same manner as in Exer- cise No. 8, the length over all to be T,}i inches. The grain or fiber of the wood should run across and not lengthwise of the core box. When the core box has been varnished and finished on the inside and ends the work is complete. MANUAL TRAINING 117 EXERCISE NO. lO. Exercise No. 10, shown in Fig. 198, is a screw for a wonn gear. This pattern is a rather difficult one for a student to attempt to make, but with care and perseverance the work —I Fig. 198. may be done and wlien completed successfully the student will be capable of doing almost any job of pattern making that may be assigned him. Hcgin the pattern by dressing on one side a piece which is 2^ inches by S^A inches by 20 inches. Cut die piece into two parts and place together the planed surfaces. Fasten at the ends with screws; place dowel pins in the piece a distance of 6 inches apart; place in the lathe and turn to a cylinder 5 inches in diameter. When this has been done the piece will appear as shown in Fig. 199. Lay out and turn to the dimensions indicated by the dotted lines. Varnish this cylinder yellow for the reason that the ii8 MANUAL TRAINING varnish hardens the surface and the fine hnes to be marked may be made and worked more accurately. Saw off at the (rnds of core prints and dress the ends. Part the pattern and ! I'l ; I * 1 ' ! 1 1 1 I : i; ; 1 ' ' [ L-> ' i 1 , . C--I 1 ] 1 vi iCI 1 -^ -^<— >a-^ Fig. 199. lay out the screw in sections as shown in Fig. 200. The lay- ing out of tlie lines may be done more easily by first making a templet to the form of a section of the tooth or thread and Fig. 200. marking to the form of the templet on the inside surfaces. First it is necessary to square lines across to give the position MANUAL TRAINING 119 of threafi on each edge of surface. Place the templet in position between the lines drawn, and scribe around it. When the lines have been formed on the inside surfaces, one to correspond with the other, a flexible rule may be sprung around the outer surfaces to guide the marker in laying out the lines on the convex surface of each half of the pattern. An adjustable blade back saw is a very convenient tool for cutting to the proper depth between the threads. This saw being- adjustable may be set to saw to the depth desired and cannot cut deeper. By following around the convex surface near the line of the thread and cutting to the required depth, the por- tion to be cut away may be easily removed with a narrow par- ing chisel. A templet of the form required between the threads must be made and the portion not yet cut away must be re- moved with the paring chisel, paring toward the center line of the pattern, testing the correctness of the work with the templet. When the cutting away is finished, sandpaper the pared surfaces and varnish the body of the pattern black leav- ing the core prints yellow. With the varnish properly smoothed, the pattern is finished. The core required for this pattern is i^ inches in diam- eter and 8 inches in length. This core may be more conven- ient! v made bv a half core box as shown in Fig. 201. After f s , Fig. 201. the core maker forms the cores in the half box the halves are joined together to form a whole. The exercises given in the foregoing pages are deemed sufticient, if properly performed, to train the student in this line of work and to enable him to take part in the construction of the various parts of any machine which may be under con- struction in the pattern shop. It is the usual policy to allow 120 MANUAL TRAINING each class in shop i)ractice to construct the patterns, mould, cast and erect in the machine shop some machine. When this plan is followed it is impossihle to outline a course beyond this point It is, however, deemed sufficient, and in case the stu- dent shows aptness in the work he should be all wed to dis- continue the regular course and beg-in on machine construction. When this work is begun, personal instruction will be neces- sary. SEP 20 1902 IGOPY DEL. TOCAT.OIV. SEP. 22 1902 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 013 966 834 • «(l|| m ml I I hi I