^^0^ A JOURNEY FROM NEW YORK TO MONTREAL BY WAY OF SARATOGA SPRINGS AND NIAGARA FALLS IN THE YEAR 1824 PRINTED FROM THE ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT IN THE POSSESSION OF FRANK D. ANDREWS VINELAND N. J. I 9 I 2 A JOURNEY FROM NEW YORK TO MONTREAL BY WAY OF SARATOGA SPRINGS AND NIAGARA FALLS IN THE YEAR 1824 PRINTED FROM THE ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT IN THE POSSESSION OF PRANK D. ANDREWS Secretary Vineland Historical and Antiquarian Society VINELAND N. J. 1912 ^^^, .t^^ •s^. ^ i H ^ ^ PREFACE The manuscript record of a journey from New York to Montreal, by way of Saratoga Springs and Niagara Falls in 1824, is written on twenty- four pages of a memorandum or copy book of that period. The spelling of a few words have been corrected, otherwise the manuscript has been quite closely followed. The record seems to be of sufficient interest to put in printed form giving as it does an ac- count of a visit to the Indian settlements of the Buffalo and Tuscarora tribes, and an interesting- description of an election in Canada. The name of the writer of the manuscript or any member of the party who made the journey with him does not appear, he is, however, believ- ed to have been a resident of Philadelphia. The inconvenience to which the party were subjected by the slow method of travel in 1824 presents a marked contrast to the rapidity, ease and comfort the route may be covered today. An edition of one hundred and ten copies only, have been printed, part of which will be distrib- uted to, or exchanged with historical societies and libraries. Frank D. Andrews ViNELAND, N. J. May 10, 1912 A JOURNEY FROM NEW YORK TO MONTREAL BY WAY OF SARATOGA SPRINGS AND NIAGARA FALLS IN THE YEAR 1 824 July At 6 on the morning of the 11 fwi-1824 we repair'd to the foot of Courtland Street &^ had the mortification to find that the Boat was cotnpletely filled & pushed off before the time appointed to avoid sinking with excess of passengers, we re- turned & had A comfortable breakfast, after which at 10 we got on Board the C Livingston & by the conveniences of the Boat & the politness of the Capt were amply repaid for the disaster of the morning. The course of the River: for abt 50 miles con- tinues straight & almost due north the shores alternately stoney sand & gravel the westen shores on passing New Jersey [6 & 8 Miles] is A continued Ridge the upper of which is formed of Stone as if regularly plan'd as A Barrier forbid- ing any communication between the water & land which from their Singular & regular appearance are called the palisades the whole height abt 250 feet near this place I counted 42 Sail of River craft of A neat appearance on their way to & from market principally Sloops neat Buildings & V few that may be called bean ti full are to be ocen on the eastern shore near N Y. After passing up the River 50 miles it Bends 10 the west & exhibits the most trulv Romantic NEW YORK TO MONTREAL IN 1824 6 Scenery that this or perhaps the Banks of ain- other River affords both sides especially the west present an ever varying suspicion of mountai-.i-; Ridges & mounds covered with Rich but low shrubbery which the scantiness of soil on the Rocks stunted in their growth. A great varit- ty & number of neat Buildings are to be seen on the shores where the mountain recedes tho' A very short distance from the River all of which have A small inclosure from A garden of a few feet square to A corn field of A tolerable size The Heights continue some distance above west point the site of this establishment is most appropriate if any effect can be produced by A rough & Bold Surface this spot is certainly cal- culated to inspire the young men that are per- suing their studies there with courage & enter prise corresponding with the Hills & resistless stream that flows at their Foot The lateness of the Boat this morning was the cause of irreparable loss to us as the night com- ing on the villages on the River side were hidden from us the River above the Town of new York is in wMdth ab't ^ of A mile & continues nearly the same to Albany A distance of 160 Miles no adequate Idea can be convey'd of the wSIopes & Steeps the cottages & Farm houses of the Towns & villages on this noble River by either pencil or pen The tide ebbs & flows above Albany The Town of Albany contains or is reputed to contain 15,000 inhabitants many Large Stores & Fine dwellings Some of the most ancient & singular Houses I have ever seen their date was to be seen on the front wall NEW YORK TO MONTREAL IN 1824 7 one of which was 17 14 & its whole appearance such as you will find in no other place in this Town we Saw the greatest number of Stages neat & good with good Horses than I ever be- held in any place At nine in the morning of the 12th we left Albany on our way to Saratoga & engaged the Stageman to go A little out of his direct road to get A view of the Cahoes' Fall on the Mohawk River this river is the size of Schuykill. the cas- cade is 40 feet& very percipitate from the Road about I Mile distant its appearance is that of A Body of Ice or Snow as we approach'd [for we left the Stage & walk'd through wood within % of A mile] the foaming of the water as it gush'd over the Rocks added the heights of the Rivers Banks on which we stood was Beautiful & cu- rious in the extreme By the Stage arrangement we were obliged to have an addition to our company & Invited Dr Nanirede & his wife who came in the Boat from N Y at the same time & were going to Saratoga, to join us which they did & proved A great ac- quisition to our party & hope our acquaintance will be lasting we reach'd the Springs before Tea hour & stop'd at the most considerble place of enter- tainment [Congress Hall] it is A Frame Build- ing the largest in the town of 200 feet Front & truly A House of many apartments. The Town of Saratoga is less than >^ mile in length there are 90 Houses & Stores on the main Street ten of which are Boarding Houses or Taverns for that purpose 3 or 4 of them is ai)OUt 100 lo 200 feet Front 8 NEW YORK TO MONTREAL IN 1824 we had 2 days of Rain in Succession but were not so much coneern'd about the weather as we had sufficient time to go to the Springs between Showers & were Ignorant of loss we should have sustained by A continuance of the Rain until we Join'd A party to see & to Fish in Saratoga- Lake seven miles from this place the Banks of the Lake do not exceed 30 feet in height they slope gently with sandy shores we can see Farms where abt A mile in width A few cultivated fields & A sufficiency of wood lands to Form such A Delightful Scenery that we could scarce- ly imagine any thing to Improve it the lake is 9 Miles in length & in widest place 3 Miles its waters are remarkably transparent & abound with sun & other small Fish it emties into Round Lake & then into the noble Hudson On the morning of the i6th at 3 o Clock we by previous arrangement took Stage for Schenecta- dy & after Breakfast Hired an extra stage to Utica A distance of 80 Mile after A Ride before Breakfast of 23 miles Our course was due west by the side of the mohawk & the Grand canal we scarcely lost sight of either the whole day To give A Just Idea of this Beautiful River would be totally impossible It exhibits on its Sides every Kind of variety capable of being form'd by Earth Rock Trees & water some of the most delightful valleys & Islands of the greatest Fertility highly cultivated one of which reminds me of Blennerhassetts Island in the Tryal of Burr In some places the mountain recede A great distance & delights the beholder with Fine fields of waving Grain & as yet NEW YORK TO MONTREAL IN 1824 xj but partially ting'd with the Golden color of Harvest & the grass is yet standing Suddenly the whole face of the country would change as if by magic & nothing but Rocks & hills & craggy steeps to be seen & the Road on to Top of A mountain from wJiich we look'd down A fearfull height at the River tumbling & Roaring over its Rough Bottom we at length arrived at Utica at >^ past ten after A Ride 103 Miles this day On the morning of the 17th we left Utica on the Grand canal which the humour of the Girls opposed yesterday We are now Gliding along on A Body of water abt 40 feet wide & 4^1^ in depth perfectly un- ruffled drawn by 3 Horses that walk on the Shore in A narrow Path at the rate of 4^2 miles the Hour the price 4 cts the mile for that sum we are well entertained A Good Table & Bed in comfortable cabin we have this moment passtd an acqueduct 30 feet in height through which A creek passes the water of the canal Flowing over it we have pass'd several of less height over small streams this great work was urged on by A man of unusual energy & force of character none but he could have accomplish'd it against the oppo- sing efforts of A great part of the State who pronounc'd it A waste of treasure & A work of centuries DeWitt Clinton under whose controul members of the legislature were only cyphers in this great work has b^en after it is coniplet'd re- jected by them & despised & such is the falibili- ty of poor mortals that the same legislature after lO NEW YORK TO MONTREAL IN 1824 his Death will Raise A monument to his memory as the greatest man the nation has produced next Washington we arrived on this evening [19th Inst, at the Town of Batavia after A Ride of 50 Miles from Rochester where we left the canal & had the satisfaction to find our esteem'd Relation James Milnor in good health & his standing amongst the good people of this place was Abundantly shown by their politeness & attention to us & we were obliged contrary to our determination to Stay A day in the Town I neglected to notice Rochester at the canal A Town of 3,000 population many Fine Stores & Houses give the place an importance that few travellers have known equal'd & when we reflect that 8 or 10 years ago only A few Solitary Houses composed the whole city The canal crosses the Genesee River at this Town by an aqueduct on 7 arches the tow path is completely Forni'd well paved & has A neat Iron Railing of abt 600 feet 2 Miles below the Town this River has 2 falls — Miles apart of 50 feet in height at this season the water is unusually high & gushes over in considerable depth & form A most Beautiful view its high Banks narrowing at the bottom until it approach- es the next fall increases the Rapidity of the current & the Roaring of the water as it falls on the Rocks below The Bed of this River or that part I have seen of it 3 Miles above & below the Town is entirely Rock Late in the (iay-on 21st we reach'd Buffalo it is situated at the end of Lake Erie our Lodging NEW YORK TO MONTREAL IN 1824 I [ at the lower Side of the Town commanded A fint- view of it. Toward the South west we saw di-^- tant vessels & no object beyond the water the width here is probably wide & it has pre- cisely the appearance of the ocean 22nd our party went to an Indian village the Buffalo Tribe in number abt 600 or A small rem- nant of them live 5 or 6 miles from the Town of Buffalo in A miserable & filthy condition with A few exceptions the few that are engaged in agri- culture & have cattle live better but many are unable to speak english or to enjoy any of the comforts of civilized life The internal Broil or party Spirit rages Amongst them 'tho less Fierce ly than amongst christians 'they have A popular old chief ' Red Jacket' who is not [to use the words of the Indian who spoke to me of him] he not very much good, he get Drunk some time this chief rejects every Species of what we concieve to be the necessary arts & adheres strictly to the old customs by the interference of some Benevolent persons A school was estab- lish'd in A village for the instruction of the children this old chief gave directions to Send the Teacher away the General opinion is that at his Death which cannot be very distant as he is 60 years old & intemperate & has no children to Succeed him if regulations amongst them admit of that course to get A chief. That his party that is now most numerous will lose their strength with their chief & A System of Education & A Knowledge of the arts will abolish all their Sav- age customs & they will no longer be A dis- tinct people 12 NEW YORK TO MONTREAL IN 1824 we rode 2 miles Further to see Red Jacket he was from home not to return untill sun sett His wife Invited us into the House [through an in- terpreter] A one story Logg House with one Room, the furniture A few common chairs A Ta- ble 2 Beds on Ruff Board Bed Steads A logg set upright with the end scoop'd out to the size of A large Bowl for the purpose of pounding corn & some pots &c &c those of the Indians I con- convers'd with agreed that the only Quality on which his popularity Rested was his Skill in the councils or as they say Jacket talk well, they uniformly call him Jacket as they have no great respect for him When his dynasty ends Pollard A prudent & Brave man will become their chief the excessive badness of the Roads prevented our seeing him I had A great curios- ity to see him as the Indians say he is A Good man he talk well he dont get drunk He is said to live well has A good House & many cattle wishes to have their children Taught to Read and favours intercourse with white people & every useful Business as many of the young people read and write & others will be sent to school by their parents & Instructed by well disposed people near them the name of Pollard will strengthen & I have no doubt prevail I was much pleased with A young man by name Lewis Too Gem & left the carriage & oui company waiting in the Road cross'd several Fields in the Rain & found him mowing which he appeared to understand he speaks good Eng- lish went to School several years near Philad'a 'London Grove' he is A fine looking Fellow NEW YORK TO MONTREAL IN T824 1 3 speaks in high terms of Pollard & wish'd me to go & see him saying it was only 2 miles & he would go with me as all my friends there were opposed to going on act of the excessive Badness of the Roads I could not urge nor allow them to wait for me was therefore obliged to pass on without seeing this distinguished Savage Lewis was not only civil but Polite he left his sythe in the grass to walk to the carriage witli me I gave him some money to Buy Books for the children & Bade him adieu The lands Belong- ing to the Indians of this Settlement is exceed ingly fertile & level tho' very little farmed & cultivated is capable of making most valuable Farms & the part we saw is within 7 miles of the termination of the Grand canal These unfortunate people are greatly annoy'd by A description of whites that are too numer- ous every where their Timber & cattle are stolen one man told me he lost 2 Horses & had but one left he foUow'd A great way but lost track of the thief we went in the afternoon to Black Rock & cross'd the Niagara River & Rode 17 miles by A delightful Road by its side the Bank is in no place above 10 or 12 feet until you approach near the falls. The current Runs 6 miles an hour the whole Body of water is in motion Boiling up & circles running into one another over the surface as if ten thousand Rock below were interupting its passage The water is deep of A very Green colour & abounds witii Fish I have made A sketch of the Falls that with my story when I return may give A 14 NEW YORK TO MONTREAL IN I 8 24 Faint Idea of it but no Image or Story can do it Justice we have seen it from every direction be- ing detained here several days waiting for the Boat that takes us down the Lake we fill up our time by seeing all we can To day the 25th rode 7 as honest miles as I ever seen in our country over A Ruff Road in A Dearborn without springs to see Tuscarora Indians they have abandon'd many or most of their Savage customs & are cleanly in their persons & Houses I saw & convers'd with Cusick the chief or one of the chiefs of this tribe he speaks & Reads english perfectly well has been in the principal cities in the union was in Philada 2 years ago & may be there again within that time he is Lame with Rheumatism & 64 years old I invited him to come & see me when inour city which he engaged to do, he is tall his face is in no respect above common except his eyes whicli are rather Better than the Indian my after opinion of him is that he posesses sagacity & great piety we reach'd the village at meeting hour & went into their church A one Story Logg Building about 20 Feet Square with low Story about 20 or 30 strangers & 70 Indians composed the Group I sat near Cusick «& he continued talk ing to myself & 2 others showing & explaining the Books on the desk that were printed in In- dian & English some words were composed of 19 letters after A short pause he took A folded paper out of his pocket on which A Hymn was written in their Language turning to me he re- peated the first line in english & said we will now worship the great Spirit he Rose & Read NEW YORK TO MONTREAL IN 1 8 24 15 the Hymn aloud when he took his seat 6 men rose on the opposite side of the Room & sang with the assistance of the women as well as we hear in any of the Churches in perfect time & very harmonious Cusock advanced & Rested his left hand on the side of the desk & lurn'd his closed eye's toward Heaven leaning forward implored the mercies of the Great Spirit in the most devout & affecting manner with all the earnestness of A genuine christian while tears fell from his eyes it served to add solemnity to the meeting & convinced the audience of his ardent devotion his language was like A gentle flowing stream with little emphasis until he pro- nounc'd the name of Jesus Christ when as if to give it more effect he made A full pause & retir'd to his seat after the 2nd Hymn he took his po- sition by the side of the Desk & began his ser- mon which lasted about ^ an hour he spoke with great ease in rather A low tone of voice tho' sufficient for the Room he rested one hand on the desk as before & the other against his Body used very little Gesture but with his hand from his Rist his manner seem'd full c f mild- ness & persuasion & his whole appearance was venerable & respectable & very little indeed cor- responding with our Ideas of A Savage he re- peated the name Jesus Christ with similar em phasis & the only words we understood in his discourse These Indians dress variously some with Blankets & Barefoot others had moccasins & A piece of Blue Cloth the size of A Blanket witli many silver trinkets in their ears & silver or pici- l6 NEW YORK TO MONTREAL IN 1S24 ted Bands an Inch wide Round their hat^ this tribe consists of 300 & they have 6,000 acres of Land This morning 2 Inst, we crossed to the Cana- da side in order to witness the prep iration for An election that was expected to continue 8 da3S The election was open'd by the hi^h Sheriff or to use their term A Knight Girt with Sword he directed A very lengthy & formal paper to be read showing his higli authority seal'd with the great seal for the chosing 4 members of the Parliament of upper Canada, The people collect in Front of the Piazza & make their nominations aloud which when seconded are taken down by the Sheriff's clerk, when the nominations are closed permission is given to the different candi- dates to address the people The popular preju- dice Runs very strongly in favour of Farmers The first that presented himself was an Irish- man who had lost none of the Brogue he was mounted on A waggon in the crowd & told them he follow'd the honorable profession of A mer- chant that His interest was deeply connected with that of Farmers if farming fail'd his Busi- ness would fail also it would therefore be wise & prudent to send him to parliament He had iiis story written & at the request of the people Paddy mounted Piazza all over again The next orator was A doctor he promis'd to redress all Grievances represented himself to havt- been A hero, during the late war against A savage For, & an army more savage he need not tell of the privations he suffered as A Soldier, that he hud left his home & left his lamily that he need no NEW YORK TO MONTREAT. IN 1824 17 tell them of the love he bore them «& the faith- fulness with which he would perform all their wishes & advocate their cause tho' he might op- pose the heads of department or even the Lieu- tenant Governor himself so that he retained the favor of the people that it was necessary to •send to parliament men of talent & energy-, that he was not ambitious but his friends had forc'd him to be A candidate but what was the peoples wish was his wish that ignorance in parliament would destroy their hopes & Ruin the country. God save the King! God save the people! I Believe 6 others address'd the mob they all appear'd to me to be men of the humblest order to say the least not A man of them was ever de- signed by nature to be Legislator We left this great wonder of nature for the Steam Boat in Ontario & Stop'd on our way at the half finish 'd monument of Genl Brock on Queenston Hights The monument will he when finish'd A curiosity it is made or making of hewn stone the Base abt 20 feet square & now 30 feet high y^ the height intended The view from this spot does credit to the taste that selected it for the monument it is the highest Ground on the Niagara River & com- mands the Finest prospect on both sides the River including Queenstown on the Canada & Lewistown on the American shores the distant country on Both sides the River form A perfect picture The harvest fields A Golden oloiir though not yet Ripe [7 mo 29th] Our passage up Ontario occupi'd 2 days & 2 nights we were not more than 15 miles from the l8 NEW YORK TO MONTREAT. IN TS24 American shore bul: the Lake to the west was A perfect Sea as the eye in that direction could reach no object save A Distant Sail of vessels that trade on the Lake & I learn'd of one of th-' men on Board the Boat that he had lied A line of 300 feet without finding Bottom As Sackets Harbour is A stoppino^ ijlace for mdse & Passengers we were detaint-d there 6 Hours & employed ourselves in seeing all worth attention there A fortification Fronting on the Lake forming A square from the waters side Buildings of stone 2 story enclosed 10 or 12 Acres all ground as level as A Floor & the most Beautiful Parade ground I ever saw A few Brass cannon & morters Ran- ged along next the water to command the Lake in time o' need The preparations during the late war at this point were immense, 10 vessels one ship are sunk in the Harbour for their preservation & one on the stocks 210 feet long & 54 leet wide (over which A House is made at the cost of $ 25,000) Such was the industry & number of workman in thirty days that the Frame was compleat & plank'd to the 2nd Deck as it remains & in 33 days more it would have been floating on Bosom of the lake I forgot to mention detention at Niagara of 5 days wating for the Steam Boat down from Og- densburgh to Lewistown to perform the voyage requires 8 days & is the only means of making the Route we had mark'd out The Town of Sackets Harbour presents A Ru- inous aspect of Deserted and unfinish'd Houses NEW YORK TO MONTREAL IN 1 824 19 The depreciation of Houses & lots is scarcely credible in conversation with an intelligent res- ident I learn'd that such as were sold for $3,000 would not now command 300 or A purchaser at any price This town came into existence with the war & will follow it to oblivion When we Reach'd ogdensburgh where the Rapids commence we were desirous to pass down the St Lawrence in A Boat rather than take the Stage on act of the novelty as well the facility of that mode, but were foil'd [no Boats to be had] & were obliged to bttake ourselves to Stages we Rode A great part of the way by the Rivers side & had A fine view of the principal Rapids by which had we succeeded in getting A Boat we should have been carri'd down at the Rate of 20 Miles the hour in perfect safety, we got to montreal 8 mo 2nd & were unluckily to late for the Steam Boat & obliged to wait 3 days for its return as this Town proves to exceed my expectations greatly the disapointment has been less but for my concern about home, as I had no alternative I must submit patiently tho' unhap pily & find employment in surveying the place The Roman catholic Religion is almost univer- sal among the natives & chapels & Seminaries for the education of the Priests are numerous the Parish church as it is called is the largest & ancient is very splendid it is always open for the convenience of the Inhabitants who enter at all hours to worship & for the remission of tlieir sins we went in it many times in Passing & in- varibly saw the penitents tliinly scaterM over the church performing their devotional exercises. 20 NEW YORK TO MONTREAL IN 1824 Some enter suddenly & fall on their Knees cross themselves after an rapid motion of their lips for one or two minutes Rise up & Retire the men with whips in their hands as from the country or laborers in the streets & the women in the con- vent attire which leads inevitably to the conclu- sion that the more refin'd receive the Benefit of Gospel where they will not be interrupted by the eye of the Public when the Priest Graciously absolves them from sin & they evince their gratitude by giving him A fee For the convenience of those that confess in the church there are 6 to 12 Boxes sufficiently large for A chair with A lattice side near which the poor sinner kneels in waiting for the Priest who at length comes in A side passage with A fat & Rudy Face & A measur'd step religion in his Garb solemnity in his air & perhaps pride on his Brain Takes his seat in the Box & patiently hears the tale of woe & kindly Blots it out for ever This church is to be taken down It stands in the Middle of Notre Dame St & A new one 100 by 150 feet is now Building for which $250,000 are appropriated it front on the same st opposite the present one The new church when Finish'd will for Rich- ness & elegance exceed any thing of the kind this side the Atlantic they have ample means & esteem it piety to decorate their churches in the highest degree All the natives speak French & A large pro- portion know little or nothing of English I ask'd Questions of the people in the street & in NEW YORK TO MONTREAL IN 1824 2 I the church & was obliged to resort to the littk French I have retain'd to get information. Some of the Houses are Large many of i & 2 Story & generally with outer doors & window Shutters of Iron, the streets are narrow & the Side walks only sufficient for 2 persons with few exceptions the population is about 20,000 inclu- ding the suburbs where tlie Houses are log & i Story occupi'd by native Canadans who enjoy A humble community of their own speak french only & have the appearance of Indians, perform all the labor whilst the commerce of the place & the offices of Government is in the hands of strangers We saw the convent of the Black nuns passed through a part of the House were not allow'd to see but 2 or 3 who were of mature age, say 50 The St Lawrence at the Town is i}4 Mile wide & Rapid the ground rises behind the city gently about ^ of A mile when it suddenly be- comes A mountain & from its top we see dis- tinctly the Town the River A fine range of meadow & cultivated lowland for miles in extent A number of fine Houses between the foot of the mountain & the Town that front on the River there & A great proportion of the Houses in this country are covered with Tin End of the manuscript. 524 V .1 V « y -%. ^°-^t.