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HOW TO REPAIR 
 SHOES 
 
 BY FRANK L. WEST 
 
 HEAD OF SHOEMAKING DIVISION 
 
 '"^aaoMaO"' 
 
 TUSKEGEE NORMAL AND INDUS- 
 TRIAL INSTITUTE 
 
fv*y 
 
 
 Institute Press 
 
 Tuskegee Institute, Alabama 
 
 1912 
 
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PREFACE 
 
 Finding that there was nothing in the form of writing 
 and illustrations which I might use to keep constantly be- 
 fore my pupils while teaching them how to repair and 
 make shoes, I set to work compiling a set of lessons 
 which would meet this immediate need. The lessons 
 on the following pages are planned so as to take one from 
 the very first steps of caring for a shop and making 
 waxed ends to the place where he is ready to make a 
 shoe. Upon each step illustrated herein, a great deal 
 more might be said.. My main object, however, is to put, 
 in a clear, compact way, the essential facts. 
 
 This book is dedicated to the thousands of young men 
 who are anxious to do common things in uncommon 
 
 ways. 
 
 Yours very truly, 
 
Copyright, 1912 
 By Frank L. West 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 The Proper Way to keep a Shoeshop 7 
 
 Making a Waxed End ° 
 
 Some Points to bear in mind about Waxed Ends 12 
 
 To make the Plain Stitch 12 
 
 The Study of Different Awls 13 
 
 How to Sharpen Knives 15 
 
 The Square-awl like the Knife and the Chisel 17 
 
 The Divisions of a Last 18 
 
 The French Hammer, Welt-knife and Rhan-file 20 
 
 Repairing a Heel 21 
 
 How a McKay Sewed Shoe is made 25 
 
 Preparation of Sole Leather 29 
 
 Halfsoiing a Shoe (nailed) 32 
 
 The Back and Lock Stitches 42 
 
 The Underneath Patch and the Backbone Stitch 45 
 
 Shoe Leathers 49 
 
 Putting on a Cement Patch 51 
 
 Halfsoiing a Sewed Shoe 55 
 
 Preparing an Insole for a Sewed Shoe -59 
 
 Patching a Shoe at the Tip 64 
 
 Halfsoiing aJTurned Shoe 67 
 
 List of Tools Necessary to have 74 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 THE PROPER WAY TO KEEP A SHOE 
 SHOP 
 
 A Shoe shop should be kept clean as any 
 other place of business. A clean swept floor, 
 clean, clear corners, bright walls, clean win- 
 dows and everything straight and in place 
 go to make a pleasant shop to work in and a 
 pleasant place for people to visit. 
 
 Show me the inside of a shoemaker's place 
 of business, and I will be able to tell you to 
 a great degree the kind of customers he has 
 and the class of work he does. 
 
 The shop should be well ventilated and 
 lighted for the sake of the workmen's 
 health. There should be set or special hours 
 during the day for sweeping and arranging 
 things. Often a workman's work seems a 
 burden because things are not tidy and 
 straight. When putting down a pair of 
 shoes, set them straight with insides together. 
 The little things count. A bright, pleasant 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 shop is the first step towards making work a 
 pleasure. 
 
 1. Always sweep from the front door to- 
 wards the rear end of the shop. 
 
 2. The easiest way to sweep is to move 
 everything, placing it in its proper place as 
 you go so that when you are through every- 
 thing will be straight. When possible cover 
 all machines while sweeping. 
 
 3. Never leave the work bench without 
 leaving everything straight. 
 
 4. Never keep heavy tools, such as iron 
 lasts and lap-irons on your bench. Have 
 bench system. 
 
 MAKING A WAXED END 
 
 The threads which shoemakers use are 
 called ''ends" (warped thread twisted) and 
 are made of two or more threads or strands 
 of smaller thread, or flax, as it is called. 
 
 The first thing in making an end is break- 
 ing the flax. To break the flax, hold the 
 main part, which is to be broken for the end, 
 in the left hand, firmly gripping it where 
 
 8 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 you want it broken, between the first finger 
 and thumb so that it will not turn beyond 
 that point. With the right hand, lay the 
 part of flax which is attached to the ball on 
 the knee and roll it from you. This will 
 cause the small flax fibers to separate, thus 
 enabling you to break it easily. When the 
 fibers separate give the thread a light, quick 
 jerk and it will break. When the thread 
 
 
 breaks pull it apart gradually so that the fi- 
 bers will taper. See Diagram No. 1 for 
 breaking. 
 
 When putting threads together lay them 
 one just behind the other so that the end 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 will have a very fine point. See Diagram 
 No. 2. 
 
 Putting the threads together 
 
 Roll the end with the same movement as 
 shown in Diagram No. 1, only allow it to turn 
 between the fingers of the left hand. After 
 rolling or twisting, wax well. 
 
 TO PUT ON THE BRISTLE 
 
 To put on a bristle, wax the fine ends 
 well to the point. Catch the bristle, holding 
 head in left hand, pull the wax toward the 
 end briskly, thus waxing only the part to 
 
 10 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 which the thread is to be fastened. Take 
 the bristle between the first finger and 
 thumb, Diagram No. 3, and catch the fine 
 
 i. 
 
 
 part of thread with it. Twist thread and 
 bristle well together, slanting to the end. 
 Stick hole in thread and pull bristle through 
 to fasten it. See Diagram No. 5. After 
 fastening thread, cut off heads of bristles 
 and sandpaper the ends. 
 
 11 
 
SOME POINTS TO BEAR IN MIND 
 ABOUT WAXED ENDS 
 
 Never make an end longer than is neces- 
 sary to sew a shoe. If an end is long enough 
 to sew two shoes, double the amount of work 
 is done by pulling the double end through 
 the first shoe. By doing this, the end will 
 have to be pulled two or three times more 
 than necessary. The second shoe, when 
 sewed with such an end, is never as strong 
 as the first one. 
 
 The thread grows weaker and weaker as 
 it is used. The second shoe gets the dead 
 thread. 
 
 When sewing, keep the thread well waxed. 
 When the thread is well waxed, the awl is 
 not too large, and the end is pulled up well, 
 the shoes seldom rip. 
 
 TO MAKE THE PLAIN STITCH 
 
 1. Push the awl through the leather from 
 the right side. 
 
 2. Put the left-hand bristle through and 
 then the right-hand bristle. 
 
 3. The left-hand bristle should always be 
 
 12 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 in the side of the hole which is farthest from 
 you. 
 
 4. Catch hold of the bristles and pull 
 them through. 
 
 5. After they are well through, catch the 
 end below the bristles and finish the stitch. 
 
 6. Pull the end up well and hold it until 
 you can feel the wax set. 
 
 7. After the first stitch is made, the bris- 
 tle from the left hand will always come 
 through on top of the stitch, or end, on the 
 right side. 
 
 8. Keep the hands free from grease while 
 sewing with a waxed end. 
 
 9. Always sew towards you. 
 
 THE STUDY OF DIFFERENT AWLS 
 
 Shoemakers use four kinds of awls, namely: 
 Pegging-awl, Stabbing-awl (or straight-awl) , 
 Sewing-awl (inseamimg or whipping-awl) 
 and the Stitching-awl (or square-awl) . The 
 Pegging-awl is used to drive holes in the 
 sole for pegs. It is sometimes used to make 
 holes in the heels before the heel-nails are 
 
 13 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 put in. The Stabbing-awl is used in sewing 
 rips in the upper of a shoe and any other 
 kind of sewing which is to be done in straight, 
 flat material. The Inseaming-awl is used 
 when sewing the welt on a shoe, sewing a 
 patch down to the sole, and in some cases 
 when sewing the sole on the shoe. The 
 Sewing-awl is round or oval shaped at the 
 point. This awl will make stitches which 
 have a tendency to run into one another. 
 For this reason it is better for making long 
 stitches such as those on the welt. The 
 Stitching-awl is used for stitching on the sole. 
 This awl (the Square-awl) makes a square 
 hole which allows you to make a very fine 
 stitch when sewing on the sole. The flat or 
 square hole does not allow the stitches to 
 run together. 
 
 When sewing, no awl should be used 
 which is as large as the two ends put to- 
 gether. The hole which the awl makes must 
 be so small that the threads will ofifer resist- 
 ance when being pulled through. (The 
 threads will have to be pulled hard to get 
 
 14 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 them through.) Always be sure that the awl 
 is small enough. 
 
 The right sized awl, with an end well wax- 
 ed and pulled up (until it sets) are two 
 things which are necessary to make a good 
 strong stitch. 
 
 HOW TO SHARPEN KNIVES 
 
 Diagram at top of page 16 tells you not 
 to begin half-way the blade to sharpen a 
 straight knife. Why? Because beginning 
 at that point, you will in a short while have a 
 knife with a blunt or dull edge. The knife 
 will seem to be made of poor metal. In or- 
 der to make a knife cut, we must sharpen it 
 from A to B according to diagram so that the 
 blade can gradually work its way through the 
 leather. A thick blade coming to a point all 
 at once cuts hard, therefore, bear in mind 
 that the knife must be held fiat on the stone 
 or sharpener in order to get the right shape 
 as shown in diagrams. 
 
 Note the diagram of the lip knife. It is 
 sharpened to a bevel on the side that cuts 
 
 15 
 

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HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 next to shoe only half-way and held flat on 
 the outside. Thus a lip knife is sharpened 
 like a chisel. 
 
 There are two movements in cutting, for- 
 ward and downward. A butcher never cuts 
 a slice of meat without pulling his knife in 
 two directions, across the meat and down 
 through it. The chisel is made to cut by 
 pressing it downward and across the wood. 
 
 THE SQUARE-AWL LIKE THE KNIFE 
 
 AND THE CHISEL 
 
 The Square-awl must be sharpened so 
 that the effects of these two movements can 
 be gotten so that it can cut its way through 
 the sole. Since the blade is flat or square, 
 it cannot be turned in its place, or be pull- 
 ed across. The blade must be cut off at an 
 angle, i. e., it must be sharpened so that the 
 point on the outside of the curve will be 
 sharp and to a point, tapering to the inside 
 of the curve. This will allow a straight, 
 steady pressure on the awl to have the same 
 effect as that gotten by the two movements 
 in cutting with a chisel and knife. Thus, 
 the awl cuts its way through freely. 
 
 17 
 
THE DIVISIONS OF A LAST 
 
 Since shoes receive their shape by being 
 formed over the last, it is best that the divis- 
 ions of the last be given some thought. 
 
 The last is divided into four parts; namely, 
 The Toe, Ball, Shank and the Heel. 
 
 Diagram No. 1 shows these parts and their 
 shapes. 
 
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 18 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 Diagram No. 2 shows the length of the in- 
 side of the divisions as compared with those 
 of the outside. Notice the long shank and 
 short ball. 
 
 Diagram No. 3 shows the outside of the 
 
 XD^V-g. 
 
 
 divisions and the effect they have upon the 
 shape of the shoe. Notice the short shank 
 and the long ball. 
 
 19 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 Always remember that the ball of a shoe is 
 longer on the outside having a short shank. 
 
 The ball is shorter on the inside having a 
 long shank. Compare outside and inside 
 Diagrams 2 and 3. 
 
 THE FRENCH HAMMER, WELT- 
 KNIFE AND RHAN-FILE 
 
 The French hammer has a round ball face. 
 When heavy, it is used for beating and 
 moulding the soles in shape. When light, 
 it is used for hammering in rounded places 
 such as the shank. 
 
 The Welt-knife is used for trimming the 
 upper surface of the sole along the welt , (or 
 the part next to the upper) . It is sharpened 
 the same way as the lip-knife. 
 
 The Rhan-file is used for smoothing sur- 
 face after the Welt-knife has been used. 
 
 20 
 
REPAIRING A HEEL 
 
 The heel, being more directly under the 
 body and the first to strike the ground, 
 generally wears out first. For the above 
 reason, much care must be taken to see that 
 good leather and solid work is put into it. 
 
 Pull oH the worn top-piece and see that 
 what is left is hammered down solidly. Next 
 
 I, 
 
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 3<Sois 
 
 split a piece of solid, easy-cutting, scrap sole 
 leather, so that two pieces can be gotten out 
 of one. Put them on the shoe as shown in 
 Diagrams Nos. 1 and 2; fasten them on 
 well, piece by piece, with tacks. See that 
 
 21 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 the heel is level before putting on the top- 
 piece. (In some cases, if necessary, a small 
 piece can be put under after the top-piece 
 has been trimmed.) After it is level, put on 
 top-piece, trim in shape, then dravs^ guide 
 line and nail down. 
 
 J2.(t 
 
 I 
 
 
 Always put the nails thicker on the side 
 that is worn down most, to protect the heel. 
 
 Rasp the heel well and in shape; smooth 
 with buffer and sandpaper. When finished, 
 it should set level (Diagram No. 6) unless 
 you are ordered to leave it otherwise by the 
 wearer. 
 
 22 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
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 24 
 
HOW A McKAY SEWED SHOE IS 
 MADE 
 
 The Mckay sewed shoe is made on the 
 same principle as a nailed shoe. The leather 
 for the inner sole or the foundation of the 
 nailed shoe need only be strong enough to 
 hold the clinched nails. 
 
 This inner sole is placed on the last and 
 trimmed in shape first; after this the upper 
 is lasted over the last and tacked down with 
 short tacks. The upper is pulled over at 
 least one-half inch so that the nails in outer 
 sole can catch it. The space on the inner 
 sole that is not covered by the upper leather 
 is filled in with tarred felt or some other ma- 
 terial that will be water proof and at the 
 same time serve to stop the crying of the 
 soles. 
 
 This shoe may or may not have a middle 
 sole. The middle sole (or slip sole as it is 
 often called) is put on the shoe next and al- 
 lowed to extend back just beyond the shank 
 line. At this end it is trimmed down to a 
 
 25 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 feather. Tacks are used to fasten this sole in 
 place. The outer sole is next put on and 
 trimmed in shape. This, the outer sole, is 
 then nailed on the shoe with nails that are 
 long enough to go through the middle sole 
 and clinch on the inner sole, catching the up- 
 per at the same time. 
 
 The only differences between the nailed 
 shoe and the McKay sewed shoe are these: 
 
 THE McKAY SEWED SHOE 
 
 1. The middle solqis not fastened securely 
 when it is first put on. 2. The outer sole is 
 fastened on with a thread which goes through 
 and catches the inner sole. This thread 
 takes the place of the nails in the nailed shoe. 
 
 Notice the cut on page 27 of cross section 
 of the McKay sewed shoe. At the left side 
 the channel can be seen turned back. The 
 heavy black line which passes through the 
 outer sole, middle sole and the inner sole 
 represents the stitch that is made on the 
 McKay machine. This stitch holds the 
 outer sole on. This stitch takes the place of 
 the nails in a nailed shoe. The short heavy 
 
 26 
 
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 27 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 black line at the left end of the sole which 
 does not pass through to the inside of the 
 shoe represents a set of stitches which are 
 sometimes put on the shoe in order that it 
 might appear as a shoe with a welt to it. 
 
 The right side of same cut shows the sole 
 with the channel closed and covering both 
 sets of stitches. 
 
 28 
 
PREPARATION OF SOLE LEATHER 
 
 All sole leather should be put in case be- 
 fore it is used. Good soles often fail to give 
 the service they should when they are not 
 properly prepared before being put on the 
 shoe. 
 
 The first step towards the preparation of 
 sole leather is wetting it thoroughly, in other 
 words, put it in water and allow it to remain 
 until it is wet through. After this take it out 
 and set it up so that all of the water can 
 drain out that will. It is better to wet leather 
 the day before it is to be used so that it will 
 have one night at least to set and mull. 
 When it is wet the day before using, it should 
 be allowed to drain and wrapped very close 
 in cloth or paper to prevent it from getting 
 too dry for use. If it is kept close it will re- 
 main moist and cut like cheese. In this 
 stage the best results can be gotten in work- 
 manship. 
 
 MOULDING 
 
 All soles should be cut in rough shape be- 
 29 
 
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 Hi 
 
 4 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 fore being put on the shoe and all meaty sub- 
 stance trimmed from them. In trimming 
 away the meaty substance (if there should be 
 any) be sure and see that the sole is made 
 the same thickness all over. After this the 
 sole should be hammered out for two reasons: 
 first, to make all of the grains of the leather 
 more compact; and second, to mould it into 
 shape so that it will lay close to the shoe all 
 around the edges. The sole should be 
 moulded so well that there will be nothing 
 to do when nailing or sewing it on but 
 fasten it where it is. Diagram on page 30 
 shows three views of the sole after it has been 
 trimmed in rough shape and moulded. 
 
 Too much attention cannot be given to 
 the preparation of sole leather. The shoe- 
 maker who understands how to prepare his 
 leather properly and does it at all times will 
 be sure to win customers. 
 
 Under no circumstances is it wise to take 
 sole leather right out of the water and put it 
 on the shoes. 
 
 31 
 
HALFSOLING A SHOE (NAILED) 
 
 The shoe that is to be halfsoled first is a 
 McKay sewed shoe. It should be borne in 
 mind now just how the McKay sewed shoe is 
 put together as stated in previous lesson. 
 
 The first thing to do is to cut off the old 
 soles. Be careful to see if there is a set of 
 stitches on the outside of the middle sole; 
 if so, be sure to cut them between the middle 
 and the outer sole. 
 
 CUTTING OFF THE OLD SOLE 
 
 To cut off the old sole stick the knife be" 
 tween the soles at line a (sec Diagram 1) 
 and cut the soles apart around to the oppo- 
 site side of shoe to same line; hold the old 
 sole back with one hand and cut off at line a 
 making sure not to cut towards the upper. 
 Line a (Diagram 1) represents the shank line 
 or the imaginary line where the forepart and 
 shank meet. If the sole is cut off at this 
 point the new sole can be cut by it with an 
 allowance for an inch lap which is best for 
 making a substantial joint. 
 
 32 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 INSPECTING THE SHOE 
 
 It is now time to inspect the old shoe to 
 see if there is anything wrong with the 
 foundation. See if the upper is worn around 
 the edge of the inner sole; see if the middle 
 sole has been worn too thin at some point. 
 Everything must be put in first-class condi- 
 
 
 
 tion before putting on the new sole. The 
 shoe should be leveled and the inner sole 
 should be tested to see if it is sound enough 
 at all places to hold the nails that are to be 
 put in the outer sole. 
 
 33 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 FITTING ON THE SOLE 
 
 In fitting on the sole it is best to skive the 
 new sole that is to be put on first so that if 
 something goes wrong the place for sole 
 can be moved up a little. If the shoe is 
 
 
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 skived first the sole cannot be made longer 
 and a bad joint will be made. See Diagram 
 1 to 4. Care should be taken to see that 
 the new sole is cut thin enough at line b on 
 Diagram 4 to make a neat joint and yet left 
 thick enough to hold the nails which are to 
 fasten it across the shank. 
 
 After the soles have been skived, tarred felt 
 
 34 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 should be put between soles to keep the shoe 
 from crying. The felt should be made thin 
 enough to avoid any bumps in the sole. 
 Fasten the sole on across the shank; drive 
 one nail in the middle of the sole at the toe 
 about one inch from the end; trim the new 
 sole square with the middle sole (or square 
 
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 with the shape of the inner sole in case the 
 shoe has no middle sole) , leaving it about one- 
 sixteenth of an inch larger all around so that 
 the edges can be rasped up without making 
 the sole closer to the upper than it was at 
 
 35 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 first. After the sole is trimmed, draw a 
 guide line around the edge of the sole for 
 nailing far enough from the edge to allow the 
 nails when driven in to strike about the same 
 place where the McKay stitch was. Be sure 
 
 v?. 
 
 
 in nailing that the shoe is level on the iron 
 last. Many times the shoe is hammered out 
 of shape and the nails are not clinched be- 
 cause the last is not directly under the nail. 
 This happens mostly on the outside of shoe. 
 
 36 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 PREPARATION OF THE EDGE 
 
 After the sole is nailed on and the bottom 
 is made level, prepare the edge for the iron. 
 The iron should be smaller than the sole as 
 it now stands. The sole is first rasped up un- 
 til it blends with the middle sole. After this 
 the edge is bufifed until it is smooth. The 
 surplus on top of middle sole is trimmed ofif 
 with the welt knife and rubbed down with 
 the bone. The bottom edge of the sole is 
 next trimmed of¥ to fit the guard of the edge 
 iron. This bottom can be smoothed with the 
 fine part of the rasp, after which it is bufifed. 
 The edge is now sandpapered until very 
 smooth. 
 
 SETTING UP THE EDGE 
 
 It is better before applying the edge ink 
 to first set up the edge by moistening it with 
 a wet sponge and then using the warm iron. 
 This, the first setting, enables the workman 
 to be sure that his edge is right before apply- 
 ing the ink. The ink is afterwards appHed 
 and left to stand until nearly dry. At this 
 stage the warm iron is again rubbed over it 
 
 37 
 
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HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 until the edge is burnished to a high polish. 
 In order to do good burnishing the shoe 
 must be held firmly in one hand and the bur- 
 nishing iron equally as firm in the other and 
 rubbed back and forth with a square, sturdy 
 movement. 
 
 7 
 
 
 CLEANING THE BOTTOM 
 
 After the edges are burnished (or set up) 
 the bottom is cleaned by rasping the surface 
 of sole over the nails with the fine flat side of 
 the rasp to get the nails smooth with the 
 leather. Next buff the top surface from the 
 sole with the grain, making sure that the im- 
 
 40 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 pression which the guard of the iron has 
 made is left on the edge. After the bottom 
 is clean, smooth it with sandpaper. The bot- 
 tom should never be sandpapered until it is 
 dry when a clean white bottom is wanted. 
 In order that the shoe might appear neat it is 
 well to make a line across the sole at the 
 shank line (line b Diagram I) and apply a 
 gloss polish over the shank to this point. 
 The fudge wheel should be used around the 
 edge of sole to give the job a finished appear- 
 ance. 
 
 41 
 
THE BACK AND LOCK STITCHES 
 
 The Back Stitch is used on common rips 
 when the shoemaker has no machine on 
 which to do repair work. Diagram No 1. 
 shows the most common place where the 
 stitch is used. 
 
 \?M. 
 
 Diagram No. 1 
 
 In making the stitch, use a single thread 
 with a needle. To sew, leave the knot on 
 the inside and pull the needle through to the 
 outside. With your awl, make a hole and 
 carry the thread back through, thus making 
 one stitch. Make another hole and from the 
 inside bring the needle back to the outside. 
 
 42 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 At this point, the awl will have to be stuck 
 back in the second hole by the other stitch in 
 order to make the second stitch. This back 
 movement gives the stitch its name, Back 
 Stitch. See Diagram No. 1. 
 
 "THE LOCK STITCH" 
 
 The Lock Stitch is mostly used when the 
 upper is ripped loose from the welt at the 
 sole. In this case, a row of stitches is made 
 along the edge of the upper^ into which a 
 second row of stitches is locked (or sewed 
 through) . Do not catch enough upper to 
 cause the shoe to wrinkle when being sewed 
 down. The second stitches are made through 
 the sole, and the upper is pulled in its place 
 by the first row. The stitches should be 
 pulled down to where the upper and welt 
 meet. See Diagram No. 2. Always see that 
 the upper is dampened before beginning to 
 lock-stitch. A stabbing-awl is used to make 
 the stitches in the upper when lock-stitching. 
 The inseaming-awl is used to lock the upper 
 to the sole. Always sew toward you when 
 
 43 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 putting in the stitches in the upper, so that 
 when you begin to lock it down, you will be 
 sewing toward you in the sole. Always use 
 a heavy end in lock-stitching— from 8 to 12 
 strands. 
 
 Diagram No. 2 
 
 44 
 
THE UNDERNEATH PATCH AND 
 THE BACKBONE STITCH 
 
 Frequently there are places to be repaired 
 which call for a patch between the upper 
 and lining of the shoe. Such a patch we 
 will call the underneath patch. The job will 
 be strengthened by stitching the place down 
 with the backbone stitch. Diagram No. 1 
 shows a place which has been broken in the 
 vamp at the front of the shoe. This is a 
 most common place to use such a patch and 
 a very delicate place to repair. 
 
 To repair this, rip the vamp from the 
 quarter on both sides of the broken place far 
 back enough to allow a patch to be put under 
 or between the upper and the lining. Be- 
 fore putting the patch in its place (dotted 
 lines in Diagram No. 1 represent the patch 
 in its place) sandpaper the top surface so that 
 it will take the cement. After this is done 
 put the patch in its place and, with a small 
 wooden paddle, distribute channel or rubber 
 cement over the two surfaces that are to be 
 stuck together. 
 
 45 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 After the cement has set a while, stick the 
 parts that have ripped apart back together. 
 Make special effort to join them as they were 
 at first. 
 
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 46 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 THE BACKBONE STITCH 
 
 To make the job strong and at the same 
 time neat, the parts should be stitched down 
 with the Backbone Stitch. In making this 
 stitch (See Diagram No. 2) the place is 
 first whipped together, catching the material 
 through to the lining of upper. This is 
 done with one end and the stabbing-awl. 
 The stitch is made just as the back stitch is 
 made, only it is put in across the broken place. 
 Be sure and keep the stitches straight across 
 the place on the outside and the same length. 
 
 After the place has been whipped together, 
 the stitching down is done. With the same 
 end sew down the stitches. This is done 
 with the back stitch catching every other 
 stitch through to the lining and pulling it 
 down in the joint of broken place as though 
 you were driving the stitch down with a sta- 
 ple. After pulling down every other stitch go 
 back and catch the rest the same way. 
 When through cut off thread and beat the 
 place down lightly. 
 
 47 
 

 48 
 
SHOE LEATHERS 
 
 The skins which are most commonly made 
 into leather for the purpose of making boots 
 and shoes are taken from the steer, calf, 
 horse, colt, goat, sheep, lamb and kangaroo. 
 These skins are called "hides," "kips" and 
 "skins." The skins from the larger animals 
 such as the steer and horse, are called 
 "hides." Skins which come from the half 
 grown steer or cow are called "kips." 
 
 The skins from smaller animals such as the 
 goat, sheep and kid are simply called skins. 
 
 The skin of the steer is most generally 
 made into sole leather. Whenever it is used 
 for upper leather, it is split. Splitting causes 
 it to lose much of its durability. 
 
 Calf skin is not split; it is noted for its du- 
 rability. Nothing better could be wished. 
 This skin is tanned whole. 
 
 Skins from the horse and colt are also very 
 strong. Neither of these is used for sole 
 leather. 
 
 Goat skins are uniform in texture and 
 strength, and are very generally used. For 
 
 49 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 real fine work, the kid skin is used. The 
 finest grained skin is gotten from the kid be- 
 fore the animal has had any food except that 
 gotten from its mother. 
 
 Sheep skin is quite spongy and pHable. 
 This does not make such a strong leather. 
 Cheap grades of soft shoes are made from 
 sheep skin. 
 
 The lamb skin makes a very fine grained 
 leather if it is taken from the animal before 
 it is one month old. After this age the skin 
 begins to get coarse. 
 
 The kangaroo skin makes a very tough 
 and durable leather. It stretches but little 
 although it is quite pliable. 
 
 The animal which is exposed to the 
 weather most and which has to exert itself 
 most for its living always produces a skin of 
 superior quality. 
 
 50 
 
PUTTING ON A CEMENT PATCH 
 
 As a rule, shoemakers consider cement 
 patching a hard job and try to avoid it. 
 Most of the time they would rather sew a 
 patch and spoil the looks of the shoe than 
 take pains to prepare the patch properly for 
 cementing. 
 
 
 "^^ 
 
 The very first step is to select a patch from 
 the same material that the shoe is made of so 
 that the fibers will cohere. Next see that the 
 part to be patched is clean and dry. Tighten 
 the place with stretchers. Now proceed ac- 
 cording to diagrams. 
 
 51 
 
52 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 Diagram 1. Skive patch in shape desired, 
 bringing outer edges to a feather. Diagram 
 2. Lay patch over the hole and mark place 
 with crayon; make cross guide lines with 
 pencil. Diagram 3. Take off the patch 
 
 and skive the shoe. Diagram 4. Put ce- 
 ment on patch and shoe; distribute evenly 
 with small wooden paddle. (Note: Be sure 
 and keep cement well corked. The thumb 
 should be held over the mouth of the bottle 
 while cement is being used.) Let the cement 
 turn white on shoe and patch. Diagram 5. 
 
 53 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 Warm patch and shoe with an even heat and 
 place together making guide Unes meet. 
 Press firmly together all over and smooth 
 
 WJ 
 
 well with warm heel-burnisher. Diagram 6. 
 After patch has set well, sew it down to sole 
 well back and trim off surplus leather. 
 
 54 
 
HALFSOLING A SEWED SHOE 
 
 Cut off old sole and pick out the old 
 stitches. Cut off all double soles next to the 
 welt and pull the middle sole from the outer 
 sole. This will leave the stitches out of the 
 middle sole. Test the welt all around. If 
 found to be weak at any place, it should be 
 re-sewed. 
 
 First, fit on the sole as usual, having the 
 sole well moulded to the shoe and the filling 
 in. Trim the sole, leaving it a little wider 
 than the welt so that the edge can be worked 
 on without cutting the welt closer to the 
 shoe. After trimming the sole, make a 
 guide-line for cutting the channel close 
 enough to the edge of the sole to throw the 
 bed of the channel directly under the old 
 hole in the welt. See Diagram. Be sure 
 that the channel is deep enough to hide the 
 stitches. (Half the thickness of the sole is 
 deep enough.) 
 
 When the bed of the channel is too far in 
 and not directly under the old hole in the 
 
 55 
 
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 ^ 
 
 03 
 
 5! 
 
 6 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 welt, the sole will be drawn from the oppo- 
 site side of that on which you are sewing, 
 consequently, to sew the opposite side, the 
 welt will be drawn down, causing the shoe to 
 look much narrower, and in most cases, to 
 become much tighter. This one point has 
 caused many shoemakers to lose customers. 
 The work was neatly done by them, but the 
 shoe was left with a narrow welt and a very 
 uncomfortable feeling. 
 
 The channel, when cut, generally is about 
 1-8 inch from the outer edge of the sole. 
 This space between the edge and the chan- 
 nel will be covered by the guard of the edge 
 iron. This guard will make an impression 
 which will hide the channel. 
 
 See that the welt is moist before beginning 
 to sew. When sewing see that the stitches 
 on the welt do not pull through, by pulling 
 harder on the right-hand thread (the stitch 
 on the sole) . See to it that the awl is smaller 
 than the two threads put together so that 
 there will be a resistance when pulling them 
 through. 
 
 57 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 After the shoe has been sewed, rub down 
 the channel while the leather is yet moist. Some 
 shoemakers use the bone to rub down the 
 stitches in the channel before closing it. 
 This operation causes the channel to be 
 forced so wide open that it will be hard to 
 close. If the stitches are put directly in the 
 bed of the channel, there will be no need 
 to rub them down before closing channel. 
 
 The job will not be complete until the 
 edges are set up, shanks blacked; the shank- 
 line and the joint of the soles fudged. The 
 stitches must also be divided with the stitch 
 divider or fudged to give the finish. Black- 
 ing the shanks is the last thing to do on a re- 
 pair job. It is better to use a gloss polish. 
 Put it on after everything else has been done 
 sothat you will not have to wait on the shoe 
 to dry. 
 
 How far from the edge of joint should the 
 nails be put? How long should an end be 
 for sewing on the average halfsole? Why is 
 leather put in case before it is used? 
 
 58 
 
PREPARING AN INSOLE FOR A 
 SEWED SHOE 
 
 The insole is the foundation of the shoe. 
 When selecting leather for it, much care 
 must be taken in order to get material that is 
 light, firm and flexible. Light, because no 
 surplus leather is wanted; firm, because it 
 holds the whole shoe together, and flexible, 
 because the foot must have as little resistance 
 as possible when a person is walking. 
 
 The insole is first moulded to the last and 
 fastened to it with as many nails as are neces- 
 sary to hold it properly in place. Two at 
 the toe, two at the ball, one at the shank and 
 one at the heel. (Some shoemakers use one 
 at the toe, one at the ball, one at the shank 
 and one at the heel.) Trim the sole well in 
 shape by the outline of the bottom of the 
 last. The width of the shank will be deter- 
 mined by the best judgment of the workman. 
 Under the ball on the inside is always a place 
 where much care must be taken. It is here 
 where one is most likely to leave the insole 
 
 59 
 

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 60 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 too wide. In order to get this particular 
 place right, the sole will have to be trimmed 
 under just a little; trim with the point 
 of the square-point knife. This particular 
 place, if not trimmed under just a little, will, 
 after the shoe is finished, stand out from un- 
 der the ball of the foot too much. By trim- 
 ming it under, the foot is thrown directly 
 over the inside bottom of the shoe. This 
 particular point is explained more clearly in 
 the next book, How to Bottom a Welted 
 Shoe by Hand. 
 
 The bar on the average shoe is 1-4 inch 
 wide; the shoulder is the same except in the 
 shank, where it is made gradually wider in 
 order that the stitches at this point might be 
 hidden. When the shoulder leaves the 
 shank and ball line it begins to widen until it 
 reaches the middle of the shank, then it be- 
 gins to blend back to its 1-4 inch width, end- 
 ing just 1-8 inch beyond the heel line. 
 
 See diagrams for cutting the bar and 
 shoulder. After making the line for shoul- 
 der as instructed above, make a horizontal 
 
 61 
 
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 62 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 cut in line half the thickness of the sole; 
 make next a slanting cut so that a V can be 
 taken out. This V will allow the lip of the 
 lip-knife to run freely along the bar when 
 taking out the shoulder. After the shoulder 
 is cut out, make line for your bar 1-4 inch 
 back. Make cut half the thickness of the sole; 
 make second cut to take out V and cut out 
 long enough bevel to allow the inseaming- 
 awl to pass through the bar easily and come 
 out flat on the shoulder. After the bar and 
 shoulder are cut, punch the holes with the 
 inseaming-awl 1-4 inch apart all around. Be- 
 gin at the tip line to slant the holes a little 
 toward the center (of toe) so that there will 
 be plenty of room between the stitches at this 
 point, and allow the holes on the outside of 
 the bar to be 1-4 inch apart. 
 
 63 
 
PATCHING A SHOE AT THE TIP 
 
 Often the desire to mend the place broken 
 hastily causes the workman to lose sight of 
 the fact that the wearer wants his shoe to 
 look neat when he wears it. 
 
 ^V. 
 
 
 Patching a shoe which is broken just at the 
 tip is quite easily done if the right steps are 
 taken. 
 
 The same process is used generally when 
 putting on cement patches. Before putting 
 
 64 
 
a$ 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 in the stretchers to tighten the place (in this 
 case) rip the tip loose so that one end of the 
 patch can be put under as shown in Diagram 
 No. 3. 
 
 Fit the patch, cutting it as shown in Dia- 
 gram No. 1. In this case, put on the patch 
 and let it set, after which take out the 
 stretcher and push the part that is left to go 
 under the tip in its place. See dotted lines 
 showing patch stuck under tip in Diagram 
 No. 3. 
 
 After this is done sew down tip again and 
 fasten patch to the sole. 
 
 Another way to put on this same patch is: 
 first, cut the patch as shown in Diagram 1. 
 Skive the edges. Second, rip the tip loose 
 and push the piece under as shown in Dia- 
 gram 3. Third, sew the patch down at tip. 
 Fourth, put in the stretcher and tighten 
 place. Lay patch back down over the upper 
 and rub crayon over it. Fifth, lift patch and 
 skive shoe. Apply cement. 
 
 66 
 
HALFSOLING A TURNED SHOE 
 
 Shoemakers generally dread to attempt 
 halfsoling turned sole shoes. Many of them 
 know how but do not care to concentrate 
 their minds on the few small details of fitting 
 on the soles. Others could do it and would 
 do it easily if it were not for their being dis- 
 couraged by some other workman. Repair- 
 ing turned sole shoes calls for accuracy and 
 doing the right thing always at the right 
 time. 
 
 Leather that is used for turned shoes should 
 be firm and flexible. It should be well in 
 case. The work should be started when 
 there is ample time to sew on both soles and 
 turn the shoe back to its right shape and put 
 it on a last before stopping. 
 
 Diagram No. 1 shows the shoe with holes 
 in old soles before it is repaired. If the shoe 
 has a cap, notches should be made on either 
 side of the old sole and the places marked on 
 the new sole to show how to get it (the cap) 
 straight when lasting the upper. Rip the old 
 
 67 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 sole from the upper as far back in the shank 
 as the new sole is to come; cut the threads 
 towards the old sole to avoid cutting the up- 
 per. Do not cut off old soles yet. Cut 
 the new sole (which is to be put on) in 
 rough shape (Diagram 2); have the shank 
 part in the shape desired. Place new sole 
 
 on old sole and fasten it temporarily to old 
 sole as in Diagram No. 3. Trim new sole 
 the shape of old sole, leaving it about one- 
 sixteenth of an inch larger so that there will 
 be something to work on when finishing 
 up the edge. Diagram No. 3 shows new 
 
 68 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 sole fastened to old. Make guide lines across 
 the shank end of new sole, extending them 
 equal distance on the old soles. Make a line 
 on old sole at bottom of new sole. These 
 lines will show just where to place the new 
 sole after the bar and channel have been cut. 
 Diagram No. 4. shows the shoe with the 
 old sole cut off. The old sole is cut off oval 
 shaped or left longer in the center of the lap 
 as shown in Diagram 4. The lap at the sides 
 is left just long enough to allow one stitch to 
 be made in the bar of the old sole. 
 
 CUTTING THE BAR AND CHANNEL 
 
 Mark the line around new sole for the 
 shoulder. Make allowance for the one-six- 
 teenth inch which was allowed on the new 
 sole, that is, if the shoulder on the old sole is 
 three-sixteenths of an inch wide; make the 
 shoulder of the new sole one-fourth of an 
 inch wide. Do not make shoulder on new 
 sole wider unless the new sole is wider than 
 the old sole. 
 
 To cut the shoulder see lesson on prepara- 
 
 69 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 tion of an insole on page 61. On the turn sole 
 after cutting the shoulder the V is not cut out 
 behind the bar; instead, make a channel and 
 turn it back so that it can be rubbed down 
 over the stitches. Do not punch the holes 
 in the new soles; these will be made as you 
 sew; the old holes in the upper will guide 
 
 you. In some cases it is best not to use old 
 holes; the desire to do an honest job and 
 conditions will govern that part. Under 
 normal conditions the stitches should be 
 about one-fourth of an inch long. 
 
 70 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 SKIVING AND FASTENING ON NEW SOLE 
 
 After the bar has been cut on the new 
 sole, skive the old sole down to a feather; do 
 not cut out the mark which was made 
 across old sole at the shank. The close lines 
 on lap in Diagram No. 4 show that the lap 
 
 is skived thin. Next, place the new sole on 
 old sole in its proper place, using the guide 
 lines to help; mark the outline of the lap of 
 old sole on the inside of the new sole. Dia- 
 gram No. 6 shows old sole on new sole. Dia- 
 gram No. 7 shows new sole with outline of 
 
 71 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 lap of old sole on it. The new sole is then 
 skived from the lines to the shank. Skive as 
 much from new sole as there is material left 
 on old sole so that a neat joint will be made. 
 Be sure to leave the new sole thick enough 
 at the joint to hold the nails which are to 
 fasten it on. After this place the new sole 
 back on the old sole (by guide lines) and 
 fasten it at the shank with three nails. See 
 Diagram No. 9. Fasten the bar of old sole to 
 bar of new sole where they join with a short 
 tack from the inside. 
 
 LASTING AND SEWING 
 
 Pull the sole through the bottom of upper 
 that is loose and turn the upper on the wrong 
 side. Pull the center of upper over the sole 
 at toe and fasten with tack. Diagram No. 10. 
 Next pull the upper over at side or at tip 
 lines and fasten it. Pull it over next between 
 the tip line and the joint and fasten it. 
 
 The portions of upper which are not fas- 
 tened must be evenly distributed while sewing. 
 Begin sewing about two stitches below where 
 the upper is ripped; bend the sole back to- 
 
 72 
 
HOW TO REPAIR SHOES 
 
 wards the heel to tighten the upper. Be 
 very careful in crossing the joint. Do not 
 pull stitch at this point tight enough to get 
 upper out of shape. The bar determines the 
 shape of the shoe, therefore the upper must 
 lay close to it. The awl must come out di- 
 rectly in the angle of the bar and shoulder. 
 
 After the shoe is sewed fasten the lap of old 
 sole down with the short flat-head tack. See 
 Diagram No. 10. It is then turned and 
 straightened. Put it on a last and set aside 
 to dry, after which the edges are prepared 
 and set up. 
 
 73 
 
LIST Of TOOLS NECESSARY TO HAVE 
 
 1 French Heavy Hammer - - - - $ .50 
 
 1 Plain Hammer No. - - - - - .30 
 
 1 Square-Point Knife ------ .15 
 
 1 Lip Knife . . .15 
 
 1 Eight-inch Rasp ------- .25 
 
 1 Pair of Nippers .25 
 
 1 Welt-Knife .25 
 
 1 Rhan-File --------- .25 
 
 1 Heel Prier .10 
 
 1 Scratch Bone ------- .10 
 
 1 Buffer .10 
 
 1 Knife Sharpener ------ .15 
 
 1 Half Dozen Plain Awl Handles - - .10 
 
 1 Pegging Awl Handle .10 
 
 $2.75 
 
 The prices of these tools change but h'ttle. With the 
 addition of a set of good edge-irons and heel-burnishers, 
 the above list will make a good kit for a shoemaker who 
 works as a journeyman. To start a business, lasts and 
 jacks are necessary. 
 
 74