^ TT 520 .F77 1890 copv 1 INSTRUCTIONS -VOH rsiNO- FOlFEiTAlll'S TailorSystemofDressCutting WHICH MAKES A Perfect Fit for Ladies and'^^^-^^"^ ^~^^-^^^ Children Without Alteration. The System is in Two Pieces onI\" : A SQUARE AND CURVATURE, Ao;ents Wanted in Every City and Town in the United States. ADDRESS FOUNTAIN & C^ © AIL© m: %w ^^ 1^ JL >cm.^i.^ a^^ ^^i^^F# 621 LOCUST STREET, ST. LOUIS, MO. FIFTH EDITION. Entered according to Act of Conprtss. Feb. 13, in the year 18i»0. by J. H. FOUNTAIN, in the oniee cf the Librarian, at Washington, 1). C. Twent3'-eight Silver Medals. Fourteon Gold Medals, 52 Years Ago The CORTICELLI Silk MILLS WERE FOUNDED. THE OLDEST AND GREATEST SYSTEM OF ITS KIxND IN THE WORLD. -Jill"" CORTICELLI SILK MILLS. The Greatest Silk Thread Works in the World. NONOTUCK SILK CO. Mills at Florence, Leeds and Haydenville, Mass., and St. John's, Canada. CORTICELLI Spool Silk Is the smoothest, strongest and the best Silk Thread in the World. Corticelli Knitting! Embroidery Silk— Wasli Colors. ACME OF PERFECTION. C. H. SAMPSON, Agent. ^PREFUCE,^ TTFHOSE who have given the subject of garment cutting any thought, ^ will agree with us in saying that thus far there has been great room for improvement. There have been many Charts and Models, and a few so-called systems published, and the public has been imposed upon b}- unskilled persons merely for their own pecuniar}' interest, as they had not the skill to perfect a Scientific "System of Dress Cutting." There is nothing finer than garment cutting ; it is a science, and scien- tific principles must be applied or we fail. Mr. Fountain's, the inventor, greatest object was to perfect a system that would not only rival all others, but an absolutely perfect one that would stand before the world without criticism. *'i With the heart}' approval of our former patrons, we now place be- fore the public our new No. 3 System, with the fifth edition of our Instruction Book, and ask a careful and thorough investigation. The first, second, third and fourth editions, with the No. 1 and 2 Systems, was, as thousands will saj-, a grand success, but it will be eas}' to see improvements. Our Tailor Cut is artistic and beautiful, and is becom- ing ver}' popular ; our Children Cuts are simple and accurate, and all that anyone could wish. We wish to urge upon our patrons the neces- sity of perfecting themselves in the use of our System ; they should study to improve, and never feel satisfied until they can cut a perfect fitting dress without alterations, then they will not try to make improve- ments on perfect System. Very respectfull}', J. H. FOUNTAIN & CO. 621 Locust Street -^Cf r '^ FOR FAMILY MEASURES, Name Bust Bust Wiist, Waist Neck Arm's Eye Neck Arm's Eye Shoulder Back Rhnnldpv Tiflok Front Front Under A rm .... Hip Arm to Elbow. . . , ,.,,,. ^ Under Arm , . . , Hip Arm to Elbow . . A.rm Arm . Elbow Elbow Hand Band F.Skirt E Skirt B Skirt' B. Skirt Name - Name Bust Waist Bust Waist Neck .... Neck Arm's Eye Arm's Eve Shoulder Back Back Front Front Under Arm Under Arm .... Hip Hip Arm to Elbow. . Arm Arm to Elbow. . A rm Elbow Elbow Hand Hand F. Skirt F Skirt B Skirt . B. Skirt, TAKING MEASURE. You cannot be too careful, as a great deal depends on the meas- ure. You can never cut dresses with perfect results, until you can take measure correctly, which is very easily done, but you must not be in a hurry while taking measure — we do good work only when we are careful. Have the person you are measuring to stand in an easy, nat- ural position, or you cannot take a correct measure. Before commen- cing to take the measure (if 3'ou have no measure book) write the words "Bust," "Waist," -'Neck," and so on, in rotation as measurements are taken. 1. First, with tape line measure around the fullest part of bust, take up the slack, hold line between thumb and finger at the back while the person l>eing measured draws the line all tliey can by expand- ing their lungs. 2. Take "AVaist Measure" tight. 3. Take "Neck Measure" smoothly above collar. 4. Take --Arm's Eye Measure" ver}' tight just below the point of shoulder. If taken correctly, it will always be from a half to one and a half inches smaller than the neck. 5. Take "Shoulder Measure" from a little back of the full part of neck to point of shoulder. A medium shoulder is six inches. 6. Tie a cord around the waist tight, and push it down as low as it will go, except in the front, which will naturally go to the right place. 7. Take "Back Measure" from the prominent bone in back of neck to bottom of cord. 8. Take "Front Measure" from prominent bone in l)ack of neck around to bottom of cord in front. 9. Take "Under Arm Measure" from under arm down to bottom of cord, hold tape between thumb and finger and keep hand on a level while pushing tape up under the arm. 10. Take "Hip Measure" around the hips six inches below waist cord, just as yon wish skirt to fit. 11. Take "Arm to Elbow Measure" from point of shoulder to el- bow while arm is bent to front waist. 12. With arm still in this position, take "Arm Measure" from point of shoulder to wrist, or length you wish sleeve. 13. Take "Elbow Measure" as 3'ou wish sleeve to fit at elbow. 14. Take "Hand Measure" closely around largest part of hand. 15. Take "Front Skirt Measure" from waist cord down the length 3'OU wish skirt. 10 Take "Back Skirt Measure" from waist cord down the length you wish skirt in the liack. CHILDRENS' MEASURE. Take children's measure same as adults, except Bust and Waist, which must be taken very loose, just as 3'ou wish garment to fit. fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. Bust 36 Waist 24 Neck 12 Arm's Eye.. .11 Shoulder G Back 153 Front 18| UnderArm.. .8i Hip 44 Arm toElbow]4 Arm 22 Elbow lOi Hand 8 Front Skirt. .38 Back Skirt . . .39 (^"Beginners should by all means learn to draft from the above measure. DRAFTING BACK-Cut No I. 1. Draw line No. 1 one and a half inches from edge of paper. 2. Draw line 2 from the top of line 1 square across paper. 3. Make dot A, on line 1, four inches below Ime 2. 4. Draw line 3 from dot A square across paper. 5. Make dot B, on line 1, the "Back Measure" below line 2. 6. With small end up, draw line 4 from dot B square across paper. 7. Make dot C, on line 4, half of an inch from dot B. 8. Make dot D, on line 4, one and three fourth inches from dot B. 9. Make dot E, on line 4, three inches from dot B. 10. Make dot F. on line 4, according to "Waist Measure," using back waist figure. (When "Waist Measure" is less than twenty-one make dot F at twenty-one.) 11. Make dot G, on line 1, the "Under Arm Measure" above dotB. 12. Draw line 5 from dot G square across paper. 13. Place the curved edge on line 5, small end from you. and make dot H, on line 5, according to "Bust Measure," using back bust figure. 14. Draw line 6 from line 3 across dot H to dot F. 15. With Curvatures, small end from you, place the T point at the junction of lines 1 and 2, and make dot J on line 2 according to neck measure, using back neck figures. 16. Place the U point at dot J, and the shoulder measure in back shoulder guide figures on line 3, then draw line 7 from dot J to shoulder measure. 17. With small end up place the "Arm's Eye Measure" in back Arm Shape figures at the lower end of line 7 and the W point on line S, then draw line 8 from the lower end of line 7 to line 6, then make dot K on line 8 according to "Arm's Eye Measure," using the small figure in same curve. FOUNTAIN S TAILOR SYSTEM OF DRESS CTTTTING. DRAFTING BACK-Cut No. 2. 1. With System, place the K point at dot K and draw curved line 9 from dot K to dot D. 2. Place the F point at the junction of line 5 and and draw curved line 10 to dot E. (Should you wish seam to run to shoulder, make dot K in center of line 7, and draw lines and 10 straight.) 3. Draw line 11 from dot G to dot C. Make dot L on line 1 six inches below dot B. Make dot M one and three fourth inches inside of dot L. Make dot N according to waist measure, using back waist 4. 5. 6. figures. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. Make dot half an inch outside of dot L. Draw line 12 from dot F across dot N, Draw line 13 from dot E across dot M. Draw line 14 from dot D across dot M. Draw line 15 from dot C across dot 0. TRACINC BACK. 1. Place lining and drafting on tal)le as in tracing front, 2. Trace line 4 from dot C to dot D : from line 4 trace up lines 11 and 1. then line 2 from line I to dot J. 3. Then up line 9 to dot K and line 8, from dot K to line 7, and line 7 to dot J. 4. From line 4 down, trace lines 14, 15 and 1(J. 5. Remove drafting and cut out back, allowing seams everywhere excepting at neck and arm-hole. 6. For ''Side Back," replace drafting and trace line 4 from dot E to dot F. 7. Trace up line (i to line S, and line 10 to dot K. ami line 8 from line 6 to dot K. 8. From waist down, trace lines 12, 13 and 17. 9. Remove drafting and cut out side form, allowing seam every- where except at arm-hole. FOUNTAIN S TAILOR SYSTEM OF DUESS CUTTING. DRAFTING FRONT-Cut No. 3 1. Draw line No. 1 one and a half inches from edge of paper. 2. Draw line 2 from the top of line 1 square across paper. 3. Make dot A on line 2 according to "Neck Measure," using small "Neck Figure" on straight side of system. 4. Make dot B on line 1 two inches below line 2. 5. Draw line 3 from dot B square across the paper. 6. With "Curvatures," place the "Neck Measure" in front, neck figure's on line 1, and the X point in same curve at dot A and draw line 4 from dot A to line 1. 7. Place the V point at dot A, and the "Shoulder Measure" in front shoulder guide figure's on line 3, and draw line 5 from dot A to "Shoulder Measure.'' 8. Make dot C one-half of "Arm's Eye Measure" below the lowest end of line 5. 9. Draw line 6 from line 1 square out across dot C. 10. Make dot D on line G, according to "Bust Measure" using front bust figures. 11. Make dot E, on line 1, the "Under Arm Measure" below line 6. 12. Draw line 7 from dot E square a(T0ss paper. 13. Make dot F on line 7 according to "Bust Measure," using front bust figures. fountain's tailor system op dress cuttino. 7 14. Make dot G half inch outside of dot F. 15. With small end down and square corner at dot G, make dot H on line 7, according to "Arm's Eye Measure," using arm's o.yc figures. 16. Place the square corner at dot D, and make dot I on line 6 in same manner. 17. Draw line 8 from line 3 across dots D and (1, full length of system. 18. Draw line 9 from dot I across dot H, full length of S3'stem. 19. Make dot J on line 9 half an inch below dot I. 20. Make dot K on line 9 three inches below dot I. 21. Measure line 6 in back drafting from dot F up to line 8. Now make dot L on line 8 in fi-ont drafting the same distance above dot G. 22. Make dot M on line 1 the "Front Measure" below dot A. 23. With "Curvature," small end down, place the "Neck Measure " in back neck figure's at dot M, and make dot N on line 1 at the T point. 24. With small end up, place the "Arm's Eye Measure" in front arm shape at dot J; and draw line 10 from dot L to dot J, and up to the lowest end 6f line 5. The "Arm's Eye Measure" must be exactly at dot J while drawing line 10. 25. Make dot on line 1, four inches below line 6, 2(5. Draw line 11 from dot O to dot K. 27. Draw line 12 from dot N to dot H. INSTRUCTIONS FOR BASTING. Most ladies believe there is an art in bastine;— and so there is— but it is very simple, and any lady following our instructions strictly will soon tind herself proticient in the art. First, baste your lining on goods, being careful to hold your lining loosely on goods longthwise. especially at the waist ; at same time be careful not to get lining loose on jroods crosswise. In basting darts, run basting full length of lines 13 and 14— this is centerof dart and holds lining to goods — fold darts on center and baste and stitch from traced side. This gives your dart full size. In basting the different pieces of "Waist" together, join them evenly at waist line and baste all seams up from waist , then down, keeping the trac- ings even on both sides. In basting "Back" and "Front" together, and the side forms in "Back" hold "Back" next to j'ou ; also in basting shoulder seams, never allow one side of seam to run out ahead of the other, for pieces that ioin in seam are of equal length, except front shoulder, which is a little shorter than the back and must be stretched to the exact length of back, and must not be cutoff BASTING SLEEVE. Full the linings on the inside of sleeve half an inch, 'mostly where the arm bends. If the goods is very elastic, full linings three-fourths or an inch; in seaming stretch the inside of sleeve all the goods will bear. Keep the tracing even everywhere; placing sleeve in garment, the tracing from dot A up must be placed at shoulder seam; sleeve should be held a little full over the shoulder in front of shoulder seam. fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. DRAFTING FRONT-Cut No. 4 1 . With small end of System towards you, measure "Back Draft- ing" from dot C to dot D (supposing you have one and a fourth inches): then place this one and a fourth inches at dot E and measure to dot F (supposing now 3'ou have three and three-fourths inches at dot F); then place this three and three-fourth inches at dot G in "Front Drafting;" and make dot P on line 7 just one-half of "Waist Measure." 2. The distance from dot P to dot E is the amount for darts. Now refer to dart calculation and find the amount for darts in first col- umn ; the amount opposite in second column is the amount for front dart ; the amount opposite in third column is for the back dart. 3. Make dot Q on line ]2 one and three-fourth inches from dot N. 4. Make dot R on line 12 just the size of front dart inside of dot Q, 5. Make dot S half way between dots Q and R. 6. Make dot T three-fourths of an inch from dot R." 7. Make dot U just the size of back dart inside of dot T. 8. Make dot V half way between dots T and U. 9. Draw line 13 from line 11 perfectly square down across dot V. Square line 13 by line 6. 10. Draw line 14 in same manner across dot S. 11. With "Curvatures" place the Y point at the junction of lines 11 and 13, and draw curved line 15 to dot U. 12. Place the Y point at the junction of lines 11 and 14, and draw curved line IG to dot R 13. Turn "Curvatures" over face down, and the Y point at the same junction, and draw line 17 to dot Q. fountain's tailor system of dress rUTTINO. 14. Place tho Y point at the junction of lines 1 1 and Vi and draw line 18 to dot T, 15. Make a dot on line 13 nine inches below dot V. IG. Draw line 19 from dot U straight to dot just made. J 7 Draw line 2U from dot T to dot just made. 18. Jlake a dot on line 14 nine inches below dot S. 19. Draw line 21 from dot R to dot just made. 20. Draw line 22 from dot Q in same manner. 21. Make dot W six inches below dot II and one and a half inches from line 9 towards you. 22. Make dot X three and a half inches outside of dot W. 23. Place the A point at dot II, and draw curved line 23 from dot TI across dot X. 24. ']\iru S^'steni over, face down, the A point at dot II, and draw curved line 24 from dot II across dot \V . 25. Make dot Y on line 1, six inches below dot N. 20. Measure ''Back Drafting from dot to dot N, (supposing you have six inches), then place tliis six inches at dot \^ in "Front Drafting," with small end of >ystem from you, measure straight across dot X and make dot Z two inches less than half of "Hip Measure ;" dot / must never be less than half of an inch outside of line 8, but more if ''Hip Measure" requires it. 27. Place the D point at dot G and draw line 25 across dot Z. 2 to dot J. 20. Trace the dart and outlines as in front, alwa3's allowing seam outside your tracing. 21. For "Back Skirt," a plain width from 25 to 35 inches wide should be added. This gives a good width for walking length ; if more fullness is desired, add more plain goods in hack. 14 fountain's tailor system op dress cutting. DRAFTING FOR CHILDRENCut No. 8. Draw lines 1 and 2 and make dot A four inches below line 2. Draw line 3 from dot A. Make dot B the back measure below line 2. Draw line 4 from dot B. Make dot D two inches from dot B. Make dot E three and a fourth inches from dot B. Make dot F according to Waist Measure. Make dot G the the Under-arm Measure. Draw line 5 from dot G . Make dot H on line 5 according to bust measure. Turn small end up, place the square corner at dotH, and make dot P, on line 5, two measures less than Arna's Eye Measure, using arm eye figures. 12. Place the square corner at dot F and make dot Q on line 4 in same manner. 13. Draw line 6 from dot P to dot Q. 14. Make dot T on line 6 half an inch below dot P. 15. Make dot J and draw line 7. 16. Place the S point at dot T and draw line 8 from dot T to the lowest end of line 7. 17. Place the arm's eye measure in back arm shape figures at the lowest end of line 7, and make dot K on line 8 two measures less than arm's eye. 1, s! 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 1 19. 20. 21. figures. 22. 23. ments," Draw lines 9 and 10. Make dot L six inches below dot B. Make dot M three inches from dot L* Make dot N according to ''Waist Measure, usinff back waist Make dot S three and a fourth inches outside of dot N. Draw lines 12, 13 and 14. See instructions "Open Back Gar- below. OPEN BACK GARMENTS. If dress is to open in the ))ack, allow lap in back and make dot A in the front three measures less than "Neck Measure," or three-eigiiths of an inch less than "Neck Measure," and draw line 4 to one measure less than "Nock Measure. fountain's tailor system of dress CDTTINa. 15 DRAFTING FOR CHILDREN.-Cut No. 9. 1. Draw lines 1 and 2 and make dots A and B. 2. Draw line 3 from dot B. 8. Draw lines 4 and 5. 4. Make dot C half of "Arm's Eye Measure" below the lowest end of line 5. 5. Draw line 6 across dot C. 6. Make dot D on line 6 according to "Bust Measure. 7. Make dot E "Under Arm Measure below line 0. 8. Draw line 7 from dot E. 9. Measure back drafting from dot B to dot D, then from dot E to dot Q, then with small end from 3'ou, place this amount at dot E in front drafting, and make dot P just half of "Waist Measure. 10. With small end down place the square corner at dot D and make dot I on line 6 two measures less than "Arm's Eye Measure." 11. Make dot J according to "Arm's Eye Measure," from dotD. 12. Make dot K three eights of an inch below dot J. 13. Draw line 8 from dot I across dot P. 14. Place the 'Arm's Eye Measure" at dot K and draw line 10 from line 8 to the lowest end of line 5- 15. Make dot L on line 8 six inches below dot P. 16. Make dot M one and a half inches outside of dot L. 17. Draw line 11 from dot P across dot M. in fountain's tailor system of dress ctttting. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 7. 8. 8. 10. 11. 12. DRAFTING-Tailop Cut No, 10* Draw liiues 1 and 2 and make dot A fo.ir inches below line 2 Draw lino 3 from dot A. Make dot B the back measure below line 2. Draw line -4 from dot B . Make dot C half of an inch from dot B. Make dot D two and a fourth inches from dot B. Make dot E three and a half inches from dot B. Make dot F according to waist measure. Make dot (1 "untlcr arm measure " Draw line 5 from dot (1. Make dot H, on line 5, according to bust measure, i^. Turn small end up, place the square corner at dot H, and make dot P, on line 5, two measures less than arm eye measure, using arm eye figures. 13. Place the square corner at dot F ami make dot Q, on line 4^ in same manner 14. Draw line fi from dot P to dot Q, Make dot T, on line 6, half an inch l)elovv dot P. Make dot J and draw line 7. i.. Place the S point at dot T and draw line 8 from dot T to the lowest end of line 7, then place the arm eye measure in back arm shape figures at the lowest end of line 7, and make dot K, on line 8, two measures less than arm eye measure, using small figures. 18. Draw lines 9, 10 and 11. 19. Make dot L six inches below dot B. Make dot M two and a half inches inside of dot L. Make dot N according to "VVai.st Measure." Make dot half an inch outside of dot L. Draw lines 13, 14 and 15 as cut shows. Place the square corner at dot N and make dot R two measures less tlian "Arm's Eye Measure, using arm eye figures. 25. Make dot S one and a half inches outside of dot R. 2G. Place the A point at dot Q and draw line K! across dot S. 15. 16. 17. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. FOUXTAIN S TAILOR SYSTEM OF DRESS CDTTINQ. DRAFTING-Tailop B. 1. Draw lines 1 and 2 and make dots A and 2. Draw line 8 from dot B. 8. Draw lines 4 and 5. 4. Make dot C half of 'Arm's £36 Measure" below the lowest end of line 5. 5. Draw line 6 across dot C. Make dot D on line 6 according to "Bust Measure." Make dot E, '-Under Arm Measure" below line 6. Draw line 7 from dot K. Make dot F on line 7 according to "Bust Measure." Make dot G half inch outside of dot F. With small end down, square corner at dot G, make dot H on line 7, two measures less than "Arm's Eye Measure," using arm's eye figures. With square corner at dot D, make dot I in same manner. Make dot J according to "Arm's Eye Measure," from dot D. Make dot K three-eighths of an inch below dot J. Draw line 8 from dot I across dot H. Make dot L three inches below dot I. Make dot M on line 1 the "Front Measure" below dot A. With "Curvature," place the "Neck Measure ' in back neck fig- ure's at dot M, and make dot N at the T point. 19. Place the "Arm's Eye Measure" at dot K. from line 8 to line 5. 20. Make dot on line 1 four inches below line 0. 21. Draw lines 11 and 12. 22. Measure waist in back di-afting, then measure from dot H and make dot P on line 7 half of 'Waist Measure," 28. Make dot Q on line 12 two inches from dot N. 24. Make dot R the same distance from Q that P is from E. 6. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13- 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. and draw line 10 18 FOUNTAIN S TAILOR SYSTEM OP DRESS CUTTING. 25. Make dot S half way between dots Q and R. 26. Draw line 13 square down across dot S. 27. With Curvature, place the Y point at the junction of lines 11 and 13, and draw line 14 to dot R. 28. Turn Curvature over and draw line 15 in same manner. 29. Make a dot on line 13 nine inches below dot S, and draw lines 16 and 17 to dot just made. 30. Make dot T on line 8 six inches below dot H. 31 . Make dot U on line 1 six inches below dot N. 32. Measure "Back Drafting" from dot to dot S, then from dot U in front, straight out across dot T, and make dot V one inch more than half of "Hip Measure." 33. Dot Y must never be less than one and a half inches outside of line 8. 34. Place the A point at dot H and draw line 18 across dot V. 35. Make dot W two inches above dot O, and a half inch outside of line 1. 36. Draw lines 19 and 20. 37. Make dot X half inch outside of dot U, Make dot Y ten inches below dot U, and one inch outside of 38. line 1. 39. Draw line 21 from dot N across dots X and Y. 1. This Cut. No. 13, shows the result of swaying in centre back and the dividing up of the "Hip Measure." 2 Lines 12, 13, and 14 in back drafting sliould not be drawn un- til you have made dots No. 2, 3 and 4. See Instructions on page 19, in the Variations. LEG O MUTTON SLEEVE. After you have drawn line 4, make dot No. 1 three inches outside Make dot No. 2 two inches outside of dot A Make dot No. 3 one and a fourth inches above dot No. 2. Place the J point at dot No 1 and draw a line to dot No. 3 Place the H point at dot No. 3, and draw a line to the junction of lines 3 and 4. i i * vr This gives three inches looseness ; if you wish more mtike clot i\o. 1 further out Por.VTAINS TAILOR SYSTEM OP DRESS OUTTINO. 19 VARIATIONS IN DRAFTING BACK. 1. The back needs swaying at the waist, to keep it from appearing short in center of hack. To do this, maki dot F according to waist measure before you draw line 4, then make dot Y half an inch below dot B, and draw line 4 from dot Y to dot F, then make dots, C, D and E as usual. 2. 'J'o (Hvide up the Hip measure when you have made dot Z : If it comes a half an inch outside of linn 8 and not more than two inches, draw lint' 25 across dot Z. But if it goes more than two inches outside of line S, mak« a new dot Z one inch outside of line 8, then measure the distance be- tween the two dots Z ; now make dot No. 1 just one-fourth of this distance outside of tiie new dot Z, and draw line 25 across dot No. 1 ; now make dot No. 2 in back drafting the same distance outside of dot V, make dot No. 8 the same distance from dot iM towards dot N ; make dot No 4 the same distance from dot .\1 towards dot ii. draw line 12 aero s dot No. 2 draw line IH across dot No. 4, iiraw line 14 across dot No. d. H. In drawing line 8 in back drafting when the W point goes below dot II, push the large end of Curvature from you until you see dot H, then diaw line 8 to dot 11. 4. Wben a lady is 40-inch bust or more, In drawing line 9 the J point should be placed at dot K, instead of tne K point, and the L point for chil- dren. 5. When waist measure is MO inches or more, dots D, E and M should be made one-fourth of ai inch more than instructions. (5. Wh( re ladies wear no bustle at all, dot O should be made one-fourth of an inch less than instructions. 7. For a polonaise or cloak or any long garment, lines 13 and 14 should be curved ; if dots No. 3 and 4 are as much as one inch apart, place the D point at dot D and draw line 14 across dot No 3; turn System over, place the I) point at dot E and draw line 13 across dot No 4. If dots Nos. 3 and 4 are further apart, curve lines 13 and 14 more. 8 Line 10 in Tailor Cut should run in line 9 half an inch below line 5. * 9. If you are drafting by the Tailor Cut and dot V goes more than two inches outside of line 8, make a new dot V just two Inches outside of line 8, and draw line 18 across tue new dot; now measure the distance between the two dots V and make dot No 1 in the back drafting just one-half of this amount from dot M towards dot L ; make dot No. 2 the same distance from dot M towards dot N, draw line 13 across dot No 1, draw line 14 across dot No. 2 VARIATIONS IN DRAFTING FRONT. 1 When a lady is not inclined to be full stomached, line 28 should not be drawn at all, and make dot W only one and a fourth inch from line 9. 2 When "Waist Measure'' is 28 inches or more, dot Q should be made two inches from dot N, and dot T one inch from dot R. 3. Cuts Nos. 10 and 11 make a beautiful garment for ladies with 23-inch waist measure or less, or for loose fitting garments when waist measure is 24 inches or less. 4. It is not recommended for large ladies, as there are not seams enough. If you prefer two darts, take them out according to instructions in Cut 4. 20 fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. Bust '^6 37 Waist 24 25^ Neck 12 la Arm's Eye.. H 12 Shoulder ^» ♦'» Back 15| 153 Front...; •• I8i m Under Arm 8| 8 Hip 44 4G Arm to Elbow 14 14^ Arm 22 22^ Elbow lOi Hi Hand S 9 CLOSE FITTING CLOAKS. Before commencing to draft a cloak, add to your measures as the above measure shows, then draft same as Oats Nos. 2 and 4, or as Cuts Nos. 10 and 11 are drafted. For waist measuring 22 inches or less, Cuts 10 and 11 make a beautiful cloak, as it is cut only in six pieces. If waist measure is more than 23 inches, it is best to draft by cuts Nos. 2 and 4. Take out all vou have for darts in one dart, make dot Q two inches from dot N. And dot R the size of dart from dot Q. For double- breasted garments, see "Double-Breasted Garments," page 21. LOOSE FITTING CLOAKS, Add two and a half or three inclies to waist measure and the other measures, the same as the above measure shows ; if waist measure is 25 inches or less, draft by Cuts 10 and U ; if more, by Cuts Nos. 2 and 4. CLOAKS WITHOUT DART. Draft the same as for close fitting cloaks, except you make dot G in front drafting a half inch inside of dot N; lines 27 and 28 are drawn to dot G, instead of dot N, and line 8 across dot F. If Tailor Cut across dot H. UNDER ARM DART. To run under arm seam out below waist as dart, cut your lining off exactly six inches below waist line, or make a mark six inches below waist. After basting front linings on goods as usual, place the "Side Front" back of front just far enough for tracings to come together six: inches below waist line ; be sure to keep "Side Front" straight with the goods. If dress is not lined, trace out a pattern of "Side Front" with six fnch skirt, then place front "drafting" on goods, and the "Side Front" pattern the same as with lining. fountain's tailor svstem op dress cutting. 21 DOUBLE BREASTED GARMENTS. 1. Draw line 1 three inches from edge of paper, then draft the same as instructions for Cut No. 4, until you have drawn line 25. 2. Make a dot outside of dot B, just half the amount you want garment to lap. 3. Make another dot the same distance outside of dot N. 4. Draw line 31 across the two dots just made. 5. Make dot AA half inch outside of line 31, and two inches above dot O. 6. Continue line 4 out to line 31 ; line 4 may be drawn square or inclined up. 7. Draw lines 26, 27 and 28 outside of line 31. 8. Lines 26, 27 and 28 should be omitted for children. LOOSE FITTING GARMENTS. Add to "Waist Measure" one or one and a half inches. Then draft the same as in Cuts No. 2 and No. 4, or as in Cuts Nos. 10 and 11. SACQUES. If sacques are for an over-garment, add to measures the same as for loose fitting cloak ; if not an over-garment, add measures the same as loose fitting garments, and draft the same as Cuts Nos. 2 and 4, or as Cuts 10 and 11. DRAFTING FOR MISSES. Draft the same as for adults, with the following exceptions : 1. When "Front" drafting is done, place the D point at dot W, with small end down, and draw a line from dot H to dot W. 2. Turn the System over and draw a line from dot H to dot X. For open back garment, see "Open Back Garments," page 14. DRAFTING YOKES. Draft by Cuts 10 and 11. After draftings are drawn, make a dot on line 1 (in Cut 10) one and a half inches below line 5, and another on line 16, one and a fourth inches below line 5, and draw a line from one dot to the other ; this gives the "Back Yoke." For "Front Yoke" make a dot on line 1, (Cut 11) two and a fourth inches below line 6, and another on line 8, one and a fourth inches below line 6, and draw line from one dot to another ; this gives a plain, square yoke. If you desire pointed or curved yoke, make a dot at the point you want yoke to run into arm-hole, and another on line 20 in front, and line 1 in back, the depth j'ou wish 3'oke to come, and di-aw a straight or curved line from one dot to the other. In tracing, trace yoke first then the waist part below yoke, allow- ing seam outside of tracing, where 3'oke and waist join. If 3'ou wish goods plaited into yoke, plait it before tracing, if for pointed or curved yoke. FOUNTAIN S TAILOR SYSTEM OF DRESS CUTTING. DRAFTING COLLAR-Cut No, 12. 1. Draw line 1 half inch from edge of paper. 2. Make dot A on line 1 half of an inch more than half of "Neck Measure" below the end of line 1. 8. Draw line 2 from dot A square across paper, 4. Make dot B on line 2 half of an inch from dot A. 5. Make dot C on line 2, two inches from dot A. 6. Make dot D on line 1, half of an inch more than half of "Neck Measure" below dot A. 7. With straight edge of System on dot B, and square corner at dot D, draw line 3 from dot D. 8. Make dot E on line 3, one inch and a half from dot D . 9. Place the D point at dot C and draw line 4 from dot C to dot E 10. Draw line 5 in same manner. 11. With small end from you, place the large end of System on dot B, and the square corner at the end of line 1, then draw line C* from the end of line 1. 12. Make dot F on line 6, one and a half inches from the end of line 1. 13. Turn System over, place the D point at dot C, and draw line 7 to dot F. ♦ 14. Draw line 8 in same manner. 15. Trace collar out — allow seams everywhere. TO CARRY DOWN SKIRT. In carrying down skirt for Prince-is dress or wrappers, run line 28 down the "Front Skirt Measure" below dot N, and line 23 one half incli longer than "Front Skirt Measure." Now, with System small end from you, place the 1) point at tiie dot on line 23, and draw line 29, to the dot on line 28. For under arm gore, run lines 24 and 25 down the same length of line 23, and draw line 30 same as line 29. In back, run line 12 down the same as line 25 in front. Now run line 15 (this is the center of back) down the length of "Back Skirt Measure" below dot C, then run lines 13 and 14 down to gi-aduate the dirterence between the length of lines 12 and 15. Extra fullness should be allowed in back skirt b}- throwing lines 12 and 15 out, or allow pkiits in center or side back seams As to style, ladies must consult the fashiou books. fountain's tailor system of dress cittting. 23 TO PERSONS OUT OF EMPLOYMENT. EITHER ladies OR GENTLEMEN. We will give 3-011 employment, either at your homes or as traveling agents. Our inducements to agents are liberal and profits good, for we believe agents should have the profits of their labor. The "Fountain S3'Stem" is undoubtedly the best S3-stem of dress cutting ever invented, and is a S3'stem which should go into every well regulated household. In handling an article of so great necessit3^ as this, agents have the advantage over those worrying their lives out tr3'ing to sell a trivial article which no one can see advantage in buying; but with a good system of dress cutting, ever3' lady will agree at once it is something she ought to possess, and it onl3' remains for you to prove its merits. We speak from 3-ears of experience, and in handling 'The Fountain Tailor System'' this is easily done, for it speaks and recom- mends itself. It is so perfect in all its principles and correct in all its teachings, that persons do not have to be skilled or practical to use it with perfect results. If you are in want of emplo3'ment, write us at once and get our price list and terms to agents. Address J. H. FOUNTAIN & CO., 621 Locust St.. St. Louis, Mo. TO MOTHERS. The subject of Garment Cutting is a veiy important one, and one which all ladies, especially mothers, should feel greatly interested in. We believe it the dut3' of ever3- mother, to see that her daughters understand some good system of dress cutting, and sufficiently educated in this branch of their domestic education as to enable them to at least superintend, if not to cut and make their own and their children's dresses. Mothers can not but be proud of the daughter who can cut and make her own clothing, and the3' will certainl3' agree with us, that the3' will make better wives and mothers b3- having this knowledge, besides, in many cases, it might prove to be a great blessing, for many poor girls are thrown out upon this cold world without a mother's council and protection, with nothing but their own resources to depend upon for support. Then fortunate and happy is she who has some accomplish- ment and knowledge which she can turn to good account — and skilled dress cutters are alwa3'S in demand, and at all times command good wages. Then what better trade or means of self support can a mother give her daughter ? 24 fountain's tailor system op dress cutting. ADVICE AND INSTRUCTIONS TO AGENTS. Agents should give the business their entire attention, stud}' to please and to give perfect satisfaction to their patrons. In selling an article on which instructions are to be given, agents should study to im- prove, and never feel satisfied with themselves until they become masters of their profession, for we can not teach to others that which we do not know ourselves. Be courteous, deal honestly, "Do unto others as you would they should do unto you," and you will succeed. Agents, for many reasons, should always teach their pupils to. draft from the printed measure. One reason is because the drafting made to this measure will be exactly like Cuts No. 2 and No. 4, and will not confuse ; and when pupil can draft to this measure perfectly, take her measure and have her draft to this, her own measure, b}^ herself — for a test. Inspect her drafting. If correct, have her to tracejout and baste a dress for herself under your instructions, for it is absolutelv necessarj' to know how to baste. In ordering goods, it is best to accompanj^ order with mone}'. In so doing, you will save charges on return of mone}^ for goods sent C. O, D. In ordering goods C. 0. D., at least $2.00 must accompany the order. In writing to us, please sign your name and address plainl}^ If lady, sign "Miss," or "Mrs." as the case may be. IIETAIL PRICE LIST. One system complete, with instruction l)ook $ 5 00 One S3'stem complete, with instruction book and lessons 10 00 One tracing wheel, "best steel" ... 50 One tape measure, "double sateen" 50 One tape measure, "double twilled" 25 Drafting paper, "Manila," per quire 25 Instruction book 50 INIeasure book (containing 444 printed measures) 50 Any of the above articles (except paper) sent post-paid, to any ad- dress, on receipt of price. In ordering instruction book, you should mention the number of your System. Money may be sent by Post Office Order, Registered Letter or draft. CORSET WAIST No. 4. This Waist is pronounced by all who examined it the HAMlSOMKbT and most Perfect Made. It meets all the require, raents of a REFORVl WAIST with the adv.-in- tage of having a shape equal to the most approved style of corset, thus insuring at the same time NE4TNKSS and (OMFORT. It is provided on side with skirt suspenders, giving simple and convenient means of re- lieving the waist of pressure caused by tightening of waist bands of clothing ordi- narily necessary to keep skirts in place. arf*Any ladv wesiri'^ar ilils style ft garment, will Certainly be pleased with the no. 4. Made of Fine Buff Sateen Jean. Clasp Front Price $1.50. Mme. McCABE'S Perfect Fitting, comfortable, durable, Side Flexible and Absolutely Unbreak- able. Back Self- Adjusting. Construction novel, giving neat and graceful ligure. Dress Makers praise them. A steady stream of enthusiastic testimonials attest their extraordinary popularity. 0@°Gooda guaranteed. Prick, $2.00 Upward. SPECIAL Inducements — TO — LADY AfxENTS. ST.LOyiSCOfiSETCO ST. LOUIS. MO. Ladies Who Value a Refined Complexion -MUST USE- POZZONFS Medicated Complexion Poicder. It imparts a brilliant transparency to the skin. Removes all Pimples, Freckles and Discolorations, and makes the skin delicately soft and beautiful. It contains no lime, white lead or arsenic. In three shades : Pink or Flesh, White and Brunette. For sale by all Druggists and Fan- cy Goods Dealers Ever^'where, and by E. B. Heimstreet, at N. Y. Drug Store No. 9 Main Street. USE NO OTHER, Beware of Imitations! LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 014 061 975 9 ^ FOUNTAIN'S Tiliii if STE OF- Dress Cutting^ 62 1 Locust Street, ST, LOUIS, MO. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 061 975 9