A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE (VIENNA. 1815) A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE (VIENNA, 1815) A VIVID, IXTI.MATE ACCOUNT OF THE CONGRESS OF VIENNA COMPOSED OF THE PERSONAL MEMOIRS OF ITS IMPORTANT PARTICIPANTS COMPILED BY FREDERICK FREKSA TRANSLATED AND WITH AN INTRODUCTION AND NOTES By harry HANSEN NEW YORK THE CENTURY CO. 1919 .A^ .4^ Copyright, 1919, by The Century Co. Published January, 1919 m I8:9!£ Price $2.50 A512075 .... "Statesmen must by this time have learned that the opinion of the world is everywhere wide-awake and fully comprehends the issues involved. No rep- resentative of any self-governed nation will dare dis- regard it by attempting any such covenants of selfish- ness and compromise as were entered into at the Con- gress of Vienna. The thought of the plain people here and everywhere throughout the world, the people who enjoy no privilege and have very simple and un- sophisticated standards of right and wrong, is the air all governments must henceforth breathe if they would live. It is in the full disclosing light of that thought that all policies must be conceived and executed in this midday hour of the world's life. German rulers have been able to upset the peace of the world only because the German people were not suffered under their tute- lage to share the comradeship of the other peoples of the world either in thought or in purpose. They were allowed to have no opinion of their own which might be set up as a rule of conduct for those who exer- cised authorit}^ over them. But the Congress that concludes this war will feel the full strength of the tides that run now in the hearts and consciences of free men everj^where. Its conclusions will run with those tides." WooDROw Wilson. In his address to the Congress of the United States, December 4, 1917, CONTENTS Foreword. The Legacy of Vienna at Versailles ix THE LIGHTER SIDE OF THE CONGRESS CHAPTER PAGE ^ I. Those Who Danced at the Congress . 3 (From the reminiscences of the Countess BemstorflF.) II. A Famous Wit at the Congress ... 48 (From the reminiscences of the Count de la Garde.) III. Tales Out of School Ill (From the notes of Baron von Nostitz.) IV. Of Kings and Noble Lords .... 140 (From the reminiscences of the Countess Lulu Thlir- heim.) BEHIND THE SCENES AT THE CONGRESS V. Laying the Foundations for the Prussian Power 154 (From the letters of Wilhelm von Humboldt.) VI. A Prince of the House of Hapsburg . 224 (From the diary of Archduke John of Austria.) VII. The Master Craftsman of Diplomacy Exposes his Hand 276 (From the letters of Charles Maurice de Talleyrand to his sovereign. King Louis XVIII of France.) *VIII. Poland and Saxony One Hundred Years Ago 350 (From the diary of Baron von Stein.) vii FOREWORD THE LEGACY OF VIENNA AT VERSAILLES Milestones — The Congress of Vienna and the Peace Conference of Versailles! Exactly 104 years of human history lies between them; and what a history! The Peace Conference at Versailles is before our eyes; we are all of us more or less partici- pants. Before it met we had visualized its task. That it will decide matters for good and all no one believes or wishes to believe. That it will al- leviate human suffering and right some of the wrongs that have oppressed mankind is the fer- vent hope of the milhons who look toward it for freedom. It is also their hope and belief that the men who make up this conference are animated by the spirit of service — of adjusting affairs so that they will serve the interests of the many and not the few. It is a conference the decisions of which will not be worth the paper they are written on if they do not have the consent of the governed. In this lies the strong contrast between the Congress of Vienna and the Peace Conference at X FOREWORD Versailles. Vienna was a congress of princes and arbitrary, rulers. The hereditary overlords de- cided according to their aims and ambitions, in a spirit of greed and selfishness. Its story need not be told by those of us who view its results in the perspective of one hundred years. It has been set down in no uncertain fashion by the men and women who took part in its negotiations and in its gay social life — in diaries and memoirs that disclose only too well their belief that the people existed only to be trafficked in. The significant thing about the Congress of Vienna is that the kings and ministers met to prove the accuracy of this belief. It was like a diet that assembled to reaffirm the articles of a creed that had been under fire. The right of the princes to the bodies and souls of their people was being questioned. The French Revolution had caused many hereditary rulers to fear that even the anointed were not safe without proper guar- anties. The Napoleonic regime had swept many petty lords aside and created new ones overnight ; so that it was apparent even to the humblest Rus- sian muzhik that royalty was often a most hu- man institution. Moreover, the common people heard from the sailors and the merchant classes that across the seas a new nation was growing up without kings or privileged rulers of any kind. It was exactly the logical moment for reaction to FOREWORD xi reassert itself, and the argument of Talleyrand for "legitimacy," in which he set forth that only a legitimate ruler insured a stable government, was the logical result of circumstances, even though he advanced it with the selfish motive of putting the Bourbons securely back into power. The Congress of Vienna was called into being by an article in the treaty signed at Paris, May 30, 1814, after Napoleon had been crushed by a coalition composed of England, Austria, Russia, and Prussia, and had abdicated at Fontainebleau. It was to begin October 1, 1814, and credentials were to be presented November 1, 1814. About ninety persons actually took part in the Congress, but the number of those present on various mis- sions was much larger. Virtually all the sover- eigns of Europe whose fortunes had been affected by the Napoleonic Wars were there. In addi- tion a great many political groups that sought recognition from the powers were represented by lobbyists. Every salon was a political camp. When the Congress assembled, Czar Alexan- der of Russia was its dominating figure. His arms had Been overwhelmingly victorious, and he stood ready to profit by their success. Early in his career he had shown the most liberal tend- encies. To many he was known as "the dream prince." When the Congress closed, it was found that Talleyrand had been its most influential xii FOREWORD figure. As the plenipotentiary of Louis XVIII he had split the allies, driven a wedge between Austria and Prussia, and formed an alliance of defense against Russia and Prussia with Austria, England, and Bavaria. England's spokesman was Lord Castlereagh (later Marquis of Londonderry), and for a short time the Duke of Wellington. Prussia was rep- resented by its chancellor, Hardenberg, and to a great degree by Wilhelm von Humboldt. Aus- tria was represented by ^letternich. By a secret article in the Treaty of Paris the four powers that had been allied against Na- poleon agreed that they alone should decide on the division of territory, and that France and Spain should later be called into consultation. Talleyrand broke up this plan by playing on the prejudices of the allies. He found that Austria's weak spot was the fear of Prussia's growing mili- tary power. Therefore he seconded Austria's opposition to the seizing of the whole of Saxony by Prussia. Prussia demanded Saxony because Russia de- manded the Slav districts of southern Prussia. Saxony was regarded as an outlaw state because its king had supported Napoleon to the end. Other German states, notably Bavaria, had sup- ported Napoleon at one time or another, but they had joined the cause of the allies before Napoleon FOREWORD xiii was defeated. Russia supported the claims of Prussia against Saxony; Prussia supported the claims of Russia against Poland. Austria demanded a share of Saxony, Italy, and Poland. It was willing to relinquish its hold- ings in the Netherlands, which were becoming burdensome. Russia objected to appeasing Aus- tria by giving up Polish territory, and Prussia did not want to strengthen Austria by giving up any part of Saxony. Some of the minor German princes, reahzing their inability to cope with the larger powers, had reverted to the idea of a German empire. A number of able men had toyed with the plan, but the animosities of Austria, Prussia, and Bavaria made united action impossible. The chief expo- nent of this idea was Baron von Stein, who looked forward to an empire with a liberal constitution. Austria supported the project half-heartedly, re- j fusing to enter into it as long as it appeared that Prussia might be an effective antagonist. Prus- 1 sia was on the other side of the argument, and ' hoped eventually to be so strong in Germany that i Austria could be disregarded and Prussia could acquire the kaiserdom. It was not until 1871 that Bismarck was able to arrogate the imperial crown ! to Prussia by means of the Franco-Prussian i War. The smaller nations had various aims. Wiir- xiv FOREWORD temberg opposed the growth of Prussia, but could not hinder it. The Crown Prince of Wiir- temberg, who seems to have been more self-as- sertive than his father, leaned toward Russia and sought Alexander's support for the restoration of the German empire, using his projected mar- riage with the sister of the czar as his bid for sup- port, and hoping eventually to become command- er-in-chief of the army of the German Confed- eration. Before the Congress ended, both Wiir- temberg and Bavaria gave constitutions to their people. The Scandinavian nations were also repre- sented at the Congress, but for the most part went empty-handed. The Russian power, which had its genesis in Bjorko, in Lake Malar, and was still regarded as barbarian when the Congress of Utrecht met one hundred years before, rounded out the work of conquest begun with the defeat of Charles XII of Sweden at Pultowa, and held fast to Finland. Pultowa is in the Ukraine, which to-day is knocking at the gates of Versailles for freedom from the yoke of Petro- grad. Finland, still the battle-ground of Russo- German intrigue, is looking to Versailles for guidance to realize its national aspirations. In the readjustments that were effected when the return of Napoleon from Elba forced the sov- ereigns to drop their animosities and unite once FOREWORD XV more, Russia retained the greater part of Poland and Bessarabia, and allowed Prussia to keep Posen and Austria to effect a slight rectification of its frontier. Austria gave Belgium to the house of Orange, which made it a part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. Austria gained Lombardy, Venetia, Illyria, Tyrol, and Salzburg. Prussia gi^udgingly took two fifths of Saxony and certain provinces on the Rhine that were so badly gerrymandered that general opprobrium was visited on the Prussian delegates when they returned to Berlin. Pomerania, which had been Swedish, also went to Prussia. Lauenburg was given to Denmark, but this failed to compensate for the loss of Norway to Sweden. The Saxon King retained his throne and a small fraction of his kingdom, including his best cities, Leipsic and Dresden. It was the Congress of Vienna that gave Helgoland to England, as well as Malta and the Ionian Isles. In its haste it forgot about the little strip of land at the point where Holland, I Germany, and Belgium unite, called Moresnet, 'which for a hundred years has had no ruler and ino flag. Versailles is dominated by the idea of a league of nations to enforce peace; Vienna was domi- 'nated by the man who years before had dreamed of a similar league of nations — Alexander of 'Russia. But, when the Congress met, Alexander xvi FOREWORD had forgotten his dream. The league was first broached in Alexander's instructions to his envoy in London in 1801. It professed to form a bond between the nations of Europe on the basis of the existing international situation, each nation giv- ing aid to another in case of need. In phraseology it expressed many noble virtues, but it was dis- tinctly meant to be a creation of princes to main- tain their power. It was the forerunner of the *'holy" alliance formed between Austria, Prus- sia, and Russia after Waterloo. In the final act of Vienna in 1820 the idea of an international court took expression in a clause which provided that "the confederated states en- gage not to make war against one another on any pretext, nor to pursue their differences by force of arms, but to submit them to the diet, which shall attempt to mediate by means of a commis- sion. If this should not succeed, and a judicial sentence becomes necessary, recourse shall be had to a well organized court, to the decision of which the contending parties will submit without appeal." The court was never organized, or pro- vided with means of enforcing its decisions. A peace conference is sometimes spoken of as a high court which shall judge good and evil among the nations. It is scarcely that so long as it represents only one group of litigants. There is hope among many students of political affairs FOREWORD xvii in the United States and England that the con- ference of Versailles may grow into such a court. The development is logical, and would almost seem to have a parallel in the development of our civil courts. A congress of nations like that at Vienna, or a peace conference like that at Versailles, is based first of all on force. The men who gathered at Vienna disposed of their world according to terms that they could enforce. Alexander could speak with decision because a great Russian army stood on Russia's western boundaries. The allies and the United States are able to dictate terms of peace because they can enforce that peace. But there is this difference: At ^^ienna force served the outworn institution of the nobility and divine right; at Versailles force is in the hands of men who are directly representative of the actual rul- ing element in their political group. In this regard their position is analogous to that of the Vigilantes of frontier days, who or- ganized to run down the horse-thief, and, when they caught him, strung him up. Their rule also was based on force. It was a force that was ap- proved by the best interests of the community, the group that approved law and order; in other words, security of life and property. It was done by consent of the governed, and objected to only by the small minority of disturbers, who soon xviii FOREWORD mended their ways. The Vigilantes went back to their every-day tasks when the legitimate work of the courts was made possible. It is therefore not out of place to hope that the peace conference, which has seen an international horse-thief caught and punished, and has now assembled to restore stolen property, may grow into an international court of justice. There is one difficulty in the way. The Vigilantes were sufficiently close to the horse-thief and his gang to hang the ringleader and convert his accom- plices. The work of converting a criminal nation that is powerful enough to maintain its own point of view within its own borders, and is not easily susceptible to pressure other than force from without, presents a problem vastly more difficult of solution. But it can and must be solved. It is highly significant that virtually all of the men who kept diaries at the time of the Con- gress of Vienna or who wrote memoirs twenty years after estimated the Congress at its true value. They knew exactly why they had come and what they might expect. Restoration — a return to conditions of pre-Napoleonic times — was their watchword, at least the watchword of the greater princes. The fact that some of the petty princes had lost their thrones and their privileges in the upheaval did not disturb them. They v/ere willing to profit by the situation and FOREWORD xlx to remove these sources of bickering and discon- tent. Political entities were becoming larger and more powerful ; the day of strongly national- ized groups w^as at hand. In the past nationalism had not even been a determining factor in the choice of diplomats by the different European courts. It is true that England's foreign policy was conducted by Eng- lishmen who had the welfare of their own na- tion at heart, and to this may be ascribed not a little of England's success in foreign fields. The political affairs of France had remained almost exclusively in the hands of Frenchmen, but at other Continental courts foreigners often decided on the most vital questions that could affect the nations' future. So many nationalities were rep- resented in the entourage of Czar Alexander at the Congress of Vienna — and at other diplomatic conferences — that it is proper to ask whether there was anything left for the Russian people to do except support the foreign administration and bleed for their country. Capo d'Istria was born on the island of Corfu, and received his title from the Duke of Savoy; the cause of the Greek republic lay close to his heart. Later he became Russian minister of foreign affairs jointly with Nesselrode. The Nesselrodes hailed from Livonia, but the migration of the family from Westphalia was comparatively recent, and Nes- XX FOREWORD * selrode himself received a thoroughgoing Ger- man education. Baron von Stein was a German. Pozzo di Borgo was a Corsican who was at first intimately associated with the fortunes of France, but was later exiled by Napoleon. Czartoryski was a Pole. The conglomerate character of Aus- trian ministries is a matter of history. Even Prussia, which set great store by nationality, was not averse to taking brilliant men into its service from other countries. It was Hardenberg, it will be remembered, who found a place in Prussia for the Danish delegate at the Congress, Bernstorff. There is no cloud on the origin and nationality of the men who represent the various nations at the peace conference at Versailles. Indeed, so sharply have the lines been drawn that no people to-day will permit its fortunes to be put into the hands of a stranger, or of any man whose nation- ality is not the same as their own. In attempting to adjust affairs for the future, Vienna erred in not being guided by the lessons of the past. It took for granted that human af- fairs had remained in a cataleptic state, despite the fact that Europe had just passed through a cataclysm. It failed to interpret aright the spirit that was born with the French Revolution. It attributed the upheaval that followed to the per- sonal influence of one man. Napoleon, by whom it imagined the people had been misled. It failed FOREWORD xxi to realize that Napoleon was wholly as much a product of his time as the wars were a product of his ambition. Fifty years before he might have been another Zacharias Werner, shouting and gesticulating from the political pulpit to an amused, interested, but non-responsive congrega- tion. In attempting to adjust affairs in order that there will be a measure of security in Europe in the future, the men who meet at Versailles have before them the lessons of the last hundred years of progreSo toward democratic government. Since the Congress of Vienna history has been written with an eye to movements and tendencies among the people. At Vienna the princes looked down with contempt on the common herd; at Versailles the delegates prefer to call themselves spokesmen of the popular will. Their success will depend entirely on how well they interpret that will. Harry Hansen. Versailles, France, December, 1918, THE LIGHTER SIDE OF THE CONGRESS A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE CHAPTER I THOSE WHO DANCED AT THE CONGRESS FROM THE REMINISCENCES OF THE COUNTESS BERNSTORFF "The Congress dances but accomplishes nothing," said that old wit, the Prince de Ligne, and his mot be- came traditional. If later generations came to think of the Congress of Vienna as a gay, colorful assembly of royal merrymakers, it was largely due to reminis- cences such as these which Elise von Dernath, Countess Bernstorff, wrote for her children twenty-three years after the event. The social position of the countess was unapproachable. Her husband. Christian Giinther von Bernstorff, was so beloved in Vienna that he was enabled to reside there during a period when Austria was nominally at war with Denmark. He was Danish ambassador at Vienna and delegate for Denmark to the Congress with his brother Joachim. The name comes down to our own day, for the Schleswig-Holstein 3 4 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE question, which this Bernstorff tried, and failed to solve, may come up again for settlement before the peace conference at Versailles ; it is significant also that it was a member of this family who represented Ger- many as ambassador to the United States immediately before America entered the war. Countess Bernstorff was the daughter of the Count of Dernath, and calls herself German on the ground of her Holstein nativity. It is not unlikely that when Prince Hardenberg, the Prussian chancellor, asked Count Bernstorff to enter the Prussian diplomatic service in 1818, his wife's pre- dilections for Prussia may have been a determining factor in placing the Bernstorff family in the Prussian service. THOSE WHO DANCED AT THE CONGRESS When I let this wonderful time pass in re- view before my mind's eye, so many different pic- tures suggest themselves that I do not know how to unite them; the less so because, unhappily, not all the facts are at my command. Although the Congress had called together the exalted heads of the greatest empires, because it was to decide the most important interests of the na- tions, that had put the long rule of oppression behind them, and to order anew their political relations, yet the task was so tremendous, so dif- ficult, and the interests of those engaged were often so diametrically opposed to one another, DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 5 that it seemed at first to all observers as if they would not be able to agree. It seemed as if the mutual friendly relations were used only for the purpose of investigation, and there was the atmosphere of a thunder-storm and a weight on the spirits. In order to get rid of this and to obtain composure, we entered heart- ily into diversions, and it appeared as if the great lords, with their numerous followings, had come to Vienna solely for the purpose of allowing themselves to be entertained to the fullest extent by their imperial host and to enjoy new festivi- ties daily. Tremendous arrangements had been made in the Burg [Hofburg, the place of the Hapsburgs in Vienna] for this hospitality; it cost daily, as it was said, 500,000 gulden [$240,000]. Coffee was cooked in nothing less than enormous brew- ing-kettles. Innumerable cooks were in action; above all, the royal stables used up enormous sums, as a carriage was kept ready for use for every one of the big and little lords. It is prob- able that hospitality has never been practised on a greater scale than at that time by the Em- peror of Austria. Every sovereign found him- self placed so that he could not miss any of the comforts of his own court. Quarters, attendance, equipage— everything was imperial; everything was of that solid pomp such as appertains to 6 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE the princes of the house of Austria and was pos- sible only through the extraordinary wealth not only of the royal house, but of that of a large number of private persons. The Congress is said to have cost the court of Vienna nearly 30,000,- 000 gulden. It was at that time that the old Prince de Ligne spoke the mot that has become famous, "Le Congres danse, mais il ne marche pas." So long as the Congress was so idle and en- gaged solely in celebrating and in dancing, could any one think ill of us women if we thought of ourselves as the principal characters ? There was festival after festival, and apparently only the most prominent, elegant, and youngest men and women were the regular participants; whereas all the others seemingb^ played the role of super- numeraries. Especially amusing was the mixture of all sorts of persons who thought that they had business at the Congress, and some of whom actually had been sent there with a purpose, if not to transact business, at least to observe. We saw here nobles and learned men who never before had been on a business errand, but who now considered themselves highly important, and in this belief adopted a patronizing attitude. There were professors who imagined that the Congress, at which they were merely spectators. DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 7 was grouped about their academic chairs; but they soon went about at a loss, complaining that they could not find out what was actually going on. Others, naturally, could appear only as pri- vate persons because they hoped to act in secret. Many a philanthropist carried a completed con- stitution in his pocket; but, sad to relate, it did not see the light of day. In addition to this, picture to yourself the nu- merous following of the high and highest per- sonages, — the swarm of German high nobility, the crowd of strangers who had been attracted by the great drama, — and you will be able to get an idea of the scene in Vienna at the begin- ning of October. When I call back my memory of the crowned heads, I see in the foreground the Russian Czar, whose story has always attracted me, and whose tragic death in the year 1825 affected me se- verely. His splendid, handsome, knightly ap- pearance, the graciousness of his actions, would have won him even more conquests if at the same time there had not been a sort of enigmatic re- serve, something gloomy and depressed, in his manner. It was not until later that I learned that at that time he was under the influence of Madame von Krudener [a religious enthusiast] and believed himself the liberator and benefactor 8 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE fiof mankind, and therefore found himself in- ivolved in a world full of contradictions. Beside him appeared King Frederick William III, also a heroic figure, but as simple and manly and unassuming as his imperial friend was daz- zling and proud. He impressed by his earnest military attitude, and the stiffness and strength in his expression were attributed to his mourning for his deceased queen [Queen Louise of Prus- sia]. From these two I turn to the prince who stood first in our hearts, the good King of the Danes, Frederick VI. With some apprehension we looked forward to his appearance. This man, who was such an excellent monarch, suffered from the reputation, not wholly unfounded, of having been to blame for the misfortune which followed him during his long rule; in addition to that he had come into general disfavor by his alliance with France. Then there was his some- what repulsive exterior, but the modest friendli- ness of his bearing, his gracious, unpretentious attitude, soon won him all hearts and assured him honorable recognition. There remain but two kings, two grand dukes, and three dukes for me to describe. I have but little to say of any of them. King Max Joseph of Bavaria seemed to me a jovial, good-hearted man; the King of Wurtemberg, Frederick, a DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 9 very stout, comical man ; and Grand Duke Karl of Baden appeared unprepossessing and was un- communicative. The Duke of Weimar, Karl August, was by reputation most accomplished and a patron of all the arts and sciences, and soon proved himself a most liberal-minded prince. Duke Frederick William of Brunswick-Oels ap- peared crowned with laurel, but in a not very prepossessing person, with a somewhat diffident manner that was not at all taking. Duke Ernst of Coburg, on the other hand, made a vain pre- tense to good looks. The prejudice that he was still secretly a friend of the French was held against Duke Frederick William of Nassau- Weilburg, a most cultivated and agreeable man. The heir apparent, Leopold of Dessau, and his brother George were youthful spectators in Vienna. The two crown princes of Bavaria and Wlir- temberg were almost enemies. The crown prince of Wiirtemberg was married to Charlotte, sec- ond daughter of the King of Bavaria, and was now engaged in obtaining a divorce in order to marry his first love, the Grand Duchess Kath- erine Pavlovna, who since 1812 had been the widowed Duchess George of Oldenberg. This led to a sort of personal rivalry between the two in Vienna. The Princes William [youngest brother of the 10 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE King of Prussia] and August [brother of Prince Louis Ferdinand] of Prussia conducted them- selves well and in a dignified manner. Prince William of Holstein-Beck,nephew of the King of Denmark, was an attractive, pleasing, quiet man who longed too much to be back at the cradle of his children. Prince Leopold of Sicily, later al- ways called Prince of Salerno [the youngest son of the King of the Two Sicilies, Ferdinand I], whose good-heartedness shone through an ugly countenance, and who had the reputation of be- ing very learned, was nevertheless the terror of all the women because of his bear-like dancing. The archdukes appeared not only with the great- est modesty, but, because of natural diffidence, kept as much as possible in the background. I made no sort of acquaintance with most of them. Of the many brothers of Emperor Francis [of Austria] I call to mind only Archduke John and Archduke Karl, the victor of Aspern, whom we regarded with a great deal of interest despite his ugliness; at different times he exchanged a few friendly words with me. Archduke Ferdinand of Este, the youngest brother of the third consort of Emperor Francis, Marie Louise Beatrice of Modena, was the only dancer among the archdukes, a most polite and agreeable man. He was a grandson of the Em- press Maria Theresa ; his father, Ferdinand, had DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 11 married the heiress of the house of Este, Beatrice, and was the first Duke of Modena in the house of Austria. Of the archduke heir apparent, Fer- dinand, all sorts of interesting stories were told. A member of the Berlin court, the gracious Prince Anthony Radziwill, I will not omit men- tioning here. Even if he had no part in the trans- actions of the Congress, yet he contributed in great measure to the entertainment, and I will have much to tell about him later on. His rela- tive, the charming Prince Adam Czartoryski, friend of Czar Alexander, had an entirely differ- ent place at the Congress. Quiet, and keeping to himself, he appeared but little at the festivities, but tried all the more energetically to act for the best interests of his people. His physiog- nomy, his whole being, drew me toward him, and with interest and sorrow I followed his career. Pozzo di Borgo, St. Marsan, Anstetten, Pal- mella, Dalberg — these all are names of the great diplomats whom I saw with interest in these times. Baron von Stein played an important part at the Congress by the force of his personality, even if he was not actively attached to it. He stood as a colossus of the firmest will and immovable self- sufficiency, and many eyes regarded him thankfully and hopefully. Baron Hans von 12 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE Gagern, the representative of the Netherlands, was a character of an entirely different sort. It was at the home of Prince Metternich, the chief of the statesmen, that we first had our view of this colorful world. It was on October 2, even before the arrival of the sovereigns, that we found assembled there every one who had been called hither by the Congress. Our host gave up trying to make every one in the crowd known to one another, and tired of asking questions, I awaited time and opportunity to make me ac- quainted with these new guests. The remark- ably confiding address of a young German be- came most annoying to me ; his impolite advance drove me more and more into a corner, until I found myself between a console and the aggress- ive stranger. Finally I gave an answer that made him pon- der, and which freed me from his unwelcome presence. He had expressed his astonishment that I spoke German so well and did not prefer Hungarian; but upon learning that I could not speak Hungarian and was not a Hungarian, he hurriedly left me in order to ask my name. As I did the same, I learned that the man who was returning to me was the Crown Prince of Ba- varia. This knowledge, however, could not lead me to forgive his conduct, no matter how great DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 13 the compliment when he told me that he had taken me for Julia Zichy [a famous beauty of the Congress]. He now expressed his astonish- ment at my German speech, since he considered me Danish, and no matter how I fought this view, for as a native of Holstein I could and wished to think of myself as German, he did not desist from the idea he had formed, and afterward twitted me again and again with the peculiarities of the Danish women, their reserve, etc. But why do I tarry to describe such unimpor- tant things before telling about the actual open- ing of this great epoch, the entry of the mon- archs? We saw them from the windows of a house that the court chamberlain had leased ad- joining the Burg for the prince of Holstein- Beck, who accompanied our king. At first Czar Alexander and King Frederick William [of Prussia] entered on horseback, and between them rode Emperor Francis, who had gone out to greet them. This procession was led by the richly caparisoned noble guard of the Hunga- rians, with Prince Esterhazy at their head, attired in the uniform of a magnate, the value of which was said to be several million gulden. The pearl pendants on his boots and the aigrette of gems in his head-gear are famous. The impression which the prince and princess made on the popu- 14 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE lace was far different from what had been ex- pected. The noble, refined bearing of King Frederick William and his manly earnestness won him gen- eral applause, which he neither sought nor de- sired. Alexander, on the other hand, was unable to win the Viennese public away from him [Fred- erick William] either at this time or later, and even to me there was something about his over- friendly attitude and solicitous greeting that did not please me. The King of Prussia appeared altogether too serious, but the natural and easy bearing and well-intentioned friendliness of my own Emperor Francis pleased me best of all. A few days later Emperor Francis also went out to meet our good King Frederick [of Den- mark] and this time in a carriage. I was con- cerned not a little when I found that the unat- tractiveness of our monarch was increased by a rash, which was due to the heat experienced on the journey; nevertheless the good Viennese public here expressed that favor which it always demonstrated toward the Danish King. The September sun shone down on this spec- tacle. On October 1 a splendid concert opened the great festivities at the Burg. In the riding- school, which had been converted into an audi- torium, five hundred voices sang Handel's great oratorio "Samson," Later his ^'Festival of Alex- DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 15 ander" was performed in the same manner. A few days later the same riding-school was the scene of a bal pare, of which the extraordinary feature was not only a great number of beau- tifully attired women and men bedecked with orders, but especially the tremendous dimensions of that hall. After strolling through the ball-rooms, one perceived a truly magnificent spectacle on the landing of a large staircase. From this galleries extended around the upper part of the haJl, where the concerts had been given. In the place of windows were seen enormous mirrors in which sparkled the reflection from a hundred thousand lights. The staircase, dividing to two sides, led down to the splendid parquet of the lower hall along the walls of which were rows of seats as in an amphitheater. Blinded, almost dizzy, I re- mained a few moments above, and then viewed from below the dazzling procession which, com- prising the numerous court of Vienna united with all the foreign courts, descended the stairs. There was dancing, but for the most part the time was passed in gazing about this new, strange world and in asking about this or that striking personage. At this affair I saw the Prince Witt- genstein for the first time. After eight or fourteen days a new festival was given in this hall, a masked ball, which, however. 16 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE most of the participants, including myself, at- tended without costume. I recall with pleasure a beautiful group of twenty-four attractive Vien- nese women. They represented the four ele- ments in groups of six each. The youngest and most delicate figures had been chosen to repre- sent the air ; they were dressed in the filmiest veil- ing. The nymphs of the sea were richly deco- rated with pearls and corals, and the spectator missed none of their charms. For fire scrupulous care with regard to age had been taken, and therefore our friend, the Princess Kaunitz, had a place among the sextet that she filled most worthily. Her eyes seemed to burn in competi- tion with the costume, which was the color of fire, and I seemed to become heated when this sala- mander brood passed by. Behind them, with heavy tread, came six well-proportioned matrons, bedecked with jewels and gold and other costly products of the earth, each of these worthily rep- resenting Mother Earth. On their heads they wore little gold baskets laden so heavily with the fruit of autumn that the forehead of one of them bled under the bandeau to which the baskets were fastened. It seemed to me that the joy of the moment was too dearly bought by this drop of blood. We had been cautious enough to remain away from an enormous popular festival in the Augar- DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 17 ten. We were told no end of things about the crowd that had gathered there; it had been so unusual that many of the most prominent women came home with torn clothes, and later missed many of their gems. The Princess Colloredo, who is inchned to be stout, not only had her skirt torn from her in the crowd, but even her sleeves.^ In a large hall built of boards for this occasion, and which adjoined the pavilion erected by Em- peror Joseph II, the famous, and at that time already aged. Admiral Sidney Smith [born 1764; died 1840] later gave an affair for the benefit of the negro slaves, and invited all sover- eigns, with their following, and the mightiest and the least powerful of the princes to a dinner. It was known in advance that he was prepared to give tremendous speeches in which he would plead in behalf of the slaves, and would propose to have the Congress unanimously adopt a resolu- tion to abolish the slave-trade. I do not recall whether he started a collection for them at table or whether the ball that followed, to which every invited gentleman had been asked to bring a partner, was a picnic or paid for from the purse of Sidney Smith. It is thoroughly impressed on my memory, however, that with the Russian delegate, the ^ Another version of this public festival in the Augarten is told by the Count de la Garde, who ostensibly suffered no such dis- ability. 18 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE Countess Stackelberg, born Countess Ludolf, with whom I had made an appointment, I over- looked the correct hour, and arrived while the men were still dining. We had ourselves directed quickly into the vacant ball-room, and pleaded that our premature arrival be not announced. Czar Alexander, however, learned of it, and glad, perhaps, of an opportunity to avoid the endless speeches of his host, and perhaps also in order to enjoy our embarrassment, persuaded the King of Denmark to pay his respects to his part- ner — who was myself — at once. The czar arose from dinner, and the retinue of both monarchs did the same. Shrinking in a corner behind a pillar, we heard the approaching steps and the clatter of sabers, and to our horror saw the king, led by the czar, enter our large hall, look sharply for us, and then hasten toward us. We heard the czar joke about the impatience of his royal brother, who wished to thank the woman of his choice for the alacrity with which she had re- sponded to his call. Then he grasped my hand with a great display of courtesy, and kissed the large spot where unhappily a tear in my glove exposed my hand. This intimacy almost confounded me, as it was wholly unexpected, coming from him. I was not present at the first reception, at which all the Viennese women were presented to him, and DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 19 therefore had remained a stranger to him until now. This awkward omission had left him and me both ill at ease, and until this time he had not known how to make my acquaintance. At a ball of the Countess Zichy it happened that I danced opposite him in a "tempete" kno\Mi as "Figaro," and at every posture he gave me the compliment that belonged to the dance, but was no longer used, and probably forty times I had to acknowledge his unusually low and respect- ful bow. At another time — the great crowds found at all private functions excused it — it hap- pened that I brushed the round back of this great lord somewhat roughly, and my glance asking for forgiveness — interrupted shortly after by those coming between us — won a most friendly greeting from him. After such pantomimic greetings my first humorous conversation was doubly painful, and my mischievous husband, who came in the retinue of the king [of Den- mark] and stood near by, hugely enjoyed my discomfiture. Happily this little scene was soon terminated by the arrival of a number of women and by the request of the host that the great lords respect- fully return to the table. This host was con- spicuously active. He was a little man, slightly deformed, whose rather generous proportions proved an advantage, since it meant much for W A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE him to bedeck himself with his innumerable or- ders. He did not wear them with the ribbons, as is ordinarily done, but suspended by their chains, of which it is customary to wear only one on great occasions. In order to wear a great many at one time, he had hung them on white silk sashes fastened at the shoulder. As, how- ever, this method did not suffice, and he did not wish to offend any of those present who had given him decorations, he varied his display hourly until all had been exhibited. This and many another idiosyncrasy of the good Sidney Smith caused a jolly air to pervade the assembly, and as the spacious halls easily accommodated the crowd, the dancing gave real novel pleasure. For the first time the crowd enjoyed the polo- naise; we marched up and down the stairs and through the galleries, and altogether this made a charming spectacle. On October 18, in commemoration of the bat- tle of the nations, the great new hall of wood on the speedway, adjoining the country home of Prince Metternich, was dedicated. It had been built in the summer, for the opening of the Con- gress had been expected earlier, and Count Fuchs, husband of the gracious Laura, had asked at that time where he might procure tickets for the loges from which he meant to view this spec- tacle. This event, the outcome of which was DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 21 feared by those who recalled the terrible fire at the Schwarzberger fete in Paris on July 1, 1810, was wholly successful. The strictest precautions against fire had been taken. All draperies had been omitted from the large decorations of a noble sort. A row of pillars that encircled the hall formed a series of anterooms in which we could refresh ourselves. Along these pillars, inside the dance-hall, were rows with comfortable seats for the women, and countless lamps made the night like day. Frorri the anterooms broad steps, which were heated, led to the large halls below ground, where a bounteous supper was served. The heat was hardly needed, for pleasant, summer-like weather favored the festival so much that when, like all good things on earth, it reached its close, and the crush for carriages was so tremendous that we had to wait hours for them, the wait on the steps of the landing did not have the discomforts of a cool night. I shall never forget the original and beautiful appearance of this scene. Think of a stairway, almost as high as a house, covered with red cloth, canopied with Turkish tents, and lighted by bright pitch torches, on which camped a large part of the company, wrapped in cloaks, with chairs placed on the upper steps for the women, among whom I was included. Thus I waited 22 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE until early dawn for the arrival of my carriage. My husband, who felt indisposed, had left early for home, and had entrusted me to the care of his brother, Joachim. A number of weeks later Prince Metternich issued invitations to a costume ball in order to utilize the splendid building once more before the breaking-up of the Congress. No one cared to think that it was going to close soon. In honor of the exalted host and his royal master, the guests agreed to appear in the folk costume of the various countries and provinces that were united under the scepter of Austria. It was necessary not only to choose a costume, but to join a quadrille or to form one. I decided in favor of the latter method, and was pleased when my dear Henriette Schladen, her friend, the beautiful Therese Wrbna, and the attractive Marie Huegel joined me. We all had figures that were very much alike and appeared in most colorful Transylvanian costumes, which fitted our partners even better than us. Baron Karl von Huegel, later the famous traveler, was one of these men; I had chosen Baron William Ham- merstein for my dancing partner; the others I do not recall. I well remember the impatience with which I, attired long before, awaited the coming of the ladies, who were to call for me and who were to be accompanied by the carriage DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 23 containing our escorts. At last, at the stroke of nine, they were at my door, and it was eleven before we neared the scene of so much splendor, of which much was lost to us by this long trip. The road to our destination, which usually could be traversed in a quarter of an hour at most, was blocked by so many carriages that we might well be thankful for having arrived without injury. A dazzling carousal in the imperial riding- academy closed the series of the great fetes of the Congress before the coming of advent. In pri- vate homes, however, many social affairs and theatrical performances still took place. Very pleasing comedies were played at the home of the Princess Bagration, and she herself danced the national dance of her fatherland in Russian costume with a grace and naturalness that is rarely seen in a woman of society. In the Arn- stein home we viewed an exhibit of wax figures, performed by living persons, some of them very 1 handsome. I The houses of the Jewish bankers Arnstein j and Eskeles were the meeting-places of many I friends, mainly Prussians. New faces were con- ; tinually seen there, partly because travelers came I and went without interruption, and also because 1 it proved impossible to become acquainted with 1 all members of the Congress and not even with the retinues of the sovereigns in their entirety. 24 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE We women learned to know only such as were enabled by their position and rank to take part in the polonaise. The Russians obtruded their presence every- where with their characteristic boldness; espe- cally General Tschernitscheff placed emphasis upon playing an important role, and he succeeded ably. The French, on the contrary, kept in the background. The Prussians had tact enough to mingle but sparingly amid so-called elegant so- ciety. Even if they were not actually clumsy, they were still too good and too matter of fact for society. I remember that I frequently danced a polonaise with Col. Count Schwerin, who died only too soon afterward at Ligny, and with whose widow I became well acquainted later. I was greatly pleased at his simple Ger- man good-heartedness. I waltzed with the Prince of Hohenzollern and also with Brauchitsch, who even at that time seemed to regard me as almost a compatriot of his. There were many hosts in the city; Prince Metternich and Prince Trautmannsdorff were the most active entertainers. Even the ambassa- dors and delegates to the Congress did not allow a dearth of invitations. My old patron and uncle on my father's side, the chancellor, Prince Hardenberg [of Prussia], usually arranged things so that I sat beside him, and knew how DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 25 to make the time fly for me by his charming con- versation. He succeeded more or less in mak- ing me forget what I had heard about his present affairs in Berhn and about his past. He spoke often and gladly about himself, his longing for a comfortable domesticity, and lamented the fate that had always deprived him of it. Humboldt was true to his old practice, and offered me his arm whenever an occasion presented itself. Sometimes it happened that I was escorted by total strangers and was seated beside total strangers. Then I asked the names of my neigh- bors, first to the right and then to the left. This happened in the first days, when I was placed i between Lord Aberdeen and Prince Radziwill, with whom I began at that time an acquaintance that was to be greatly strengthened in Berlin. His cheerful disposition and Polish grace, his German true-heartedness and Polish versatility, appeared to such advantage that his whole being must please in the world outside and charm in his home. He seemed to be a kindly father. Everything — even his making a noise with the I skin of the grape, which he could not keep from j doing below the table — reminded him of the dear \ little ones to whom he introduced me in his stories. I Gentz, the famous statesman and Metternich's right hand and pen, also invited us often to the • most exclusive little dinners, made exclusive bv 26 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE the society with which he knew how to surround himself, and exclusive also by the delicacies which he caused to be gathered from east, west, north, and south. The entrance to his house was in a horrible condition: the entrance to the court seemed likely to break one's neck ; the house door was so low that it threatened to destroy my head- dress ; the stairs, steep and dark, did not disclose to what quarters in the house they led. In these little rooms was heaped up everything that riches, taste, and the most refined elegance knew how to discover. The senses of sight and smell and the desire for comfort were all flattered. The host on this occasion exhibited his graciousness, and I rarely attended gatherings in which cheerfulness and wit, common sense and culture were mingled in such an absorbing manner and where every one amused himself and the company in such an unusual way. Once the number of guests surpassed the num- ber of places that he had ready for them. There- fore the table was enlarged to such an extent that the servants could no longer go around it, making it necessary for the serving to take place through three double doors, which had been re- moved. I recall that on another occasion I was pre- pared in advance for a meeting with an old Ber- lin acquaintance of my husband at the dinner of DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 27 Gentz, namely, Rahel Varnhagen, at that time still called the "little Levy." I recall that I greeted her with condescension, and then paid no more attention to this person, who was not espe- cially favored by nature ; for I found more pleas- ure in listening to the ghost-stories that were be- ing told at the table at this moment. Imagine my astonishment in the summer of 1833 when I found this dinner mentioned in the book "Rahel," and discovered that I had been invited princi- pally to meet her. The reference was to this effect : "Vienna, December 7, 1814. "Gentz wrote me to postpone the engagement, as the ladies that he had invited on my behalf had to partici- pate in tableaux at court. He left me to choose whether I wished to dine with him without the Countesses Bern- storff and Fuchs, or on Monday with them. I chose the latter because I wanted to see both as matadores of graciousness. Gentz discovered this. Countess Fuchs is the sister of the Countess Plettenberg, and all my men folk are in love with her. Countess Bemstorff is the wife of Count Christian, and I have seen a most charmingly innocent letter of hers, so absolutely dis- creet that she seems singular to me." It intrigued me a great deal to learn which of my letters might have come to her knowledge, 28 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE and my dear husband enjoyed the expression, "absolutely discreet." As I have gone into the subject of the dinners, I will tell about those that I remember most vividly. One took place at the home of the newly married Count and Countess Miinster [Count Miinster, delegate representing the Eng- lish-Hanoverian interests, was married in 1814 to Wilhelmine, Countess of Schaumburg-Lippe]. Joachim also had been invited. We had been well received, and during the dinner we listened to the half-humorous, half-serious observations of Pozzo di Borgo, the interesting Corsican, who was already a famous statesman in the Russian service at that time. At the second of these dinners I M-as not so much at home, for our host, Talleyrand, received me alone in place of a hostess. I remained the sole woman present because his niece, the lovely Dorothea [Princess of Courland, whose husband was the Prince Edmond Talleyrand-Perigord], had suddenly become ill. I could not get to feel comfortable; I have no praise for the world- famous graciousness of the host, perhaps because he speaks very softly, and I can hear his words only with great difficulty. His external appear- ance antagonizes me; his stern features, from which sparks of understanding flash almost against his will, and in which one seeks vainly for DANCED AT THE CONGRESS S9 any sign of feeling or of pleasure and compla- cency, are horrible to me, and when my affrighted glance measures him, I become repulsed at the sight of his club-foot, which reminds me of my godfather. It was once said of Talleyrand that he was actually kindly, and that if the character- istics which resulted from contact with the world and the contradictions of his being were not taken into account, he was not bad; whereupon *'R.' remarked: *'I believe it. He does not need to be bad; nature has done this for him." It is time that I bring my narrative of the din- ners to a close with the remark that we also found it appropriate to entertain our king. He showed us the favor of dining with us three times, and you may well believe that we did everything our household would allow to give these dinners a festive appearance, though in these efforts lay many discomforts and petty and larger sacrifices. A number of cooks were added, the table service was augmented, largely from Count Schulen- burg, my husband's colleague, servants were hired, and, worst of all, I had to clear my bed- room each time; for this, decorated in red dam- ask, became the reception-room. High person- ages were invited as guests, but what I regret most is that no women were invited. And yet the good king seemed glad to be with us. A slight cold, which made my wish for the quiet 30 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE of my houshold more acute, had kept me in the house for several weeks. Out of my windows in the meantime I observed a ceremony which was unique of its kind, and intended by the wit of the Congress as the last and newest drama for its members. It was the funeral of a field marshal, that of the wit himself, the old Prince de Ligne, who closed his career on December 17, 1814 — an active and eventful career full of achievements, the manifestations of which we fol- lowed through several generations. A gentle death closed with a friendly hand his long and happy life. Surrounded by the numerous mem- bers of his family, — children, grandchildren, and adult great-grandchildren, — he died a pious Catholic. His wit remained faithful to him until the last moment, for when he saw his wife weep- ing in a corner of the room he said in a moved voice: "Ah, voila le perroquet qui pleure! Pauvre perroquet!" ["Ah, there is a parrot that weeps! Poor parrot!"] A kindly father and grand- father and a careless husband, it must be con- fessed, he had always been. He and his wife, who really resembled a parrot, had led a married life like innumerable other lives in the world: they had gone through a long life together without hate and without love for each other. Despite all that, I liked the old hero ; I realized this when I beheld his shabby old hat in the middle of all DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 31 the pomp of his funeral. That moved me truly, for one will not soon meet a more spirited and harmlessly witty character than this noble, splen- did old man. This I said to myself with sincere feeling. I speak here of the Prince de Ligne as the wit of the exalted gathering, and it was his wit which amused all, but Lord Stewart amused them often, even if in an entirely different manner and always unconsciously and in a way rather un- worthy of him. The reputation of being a hero, which was well deserved, had preceded him. Even his appearance was taking, for he was at- tractive, and made a stately appearance in his red uniform of the hussars, and the one eye that was continually moist gave him a rather senti- mental, but not disfiguring, look. This favorable impression was soon obliterated by his aversion, which was disclosed more and more. Stewart's elder brother, the prime minister. Lord Castle- reagh, possessed a natural urbanity which stood in favorable contrast to the unscrupulousness of his brother. He was often accused of deception, but did not deserve this accusation ; his character was one of frank true-heartedness and upright- ness. His lack of firmness, his too great readiness to make concessions, often gave his political meth- ods the appearance of deceit. I have found that 32 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE only too often weakness is regarded as deception. In the world of elegance he was not forgiven the youthfulness and the cheerfulness with which he personally opened the ball after dinner at his soirees. But I, however, danced gladly with the happy statesman, because I was glad not to find the lassitude and boredom which usually distin- guishes men of the world, and which unhappily has come to be the fashion among many young men in our own day. The love of amusement and dancing was manifest with renewed energy at the beginning of the carnival. It was as if we had just re- turned from the country and longed for the di- version that we had long missed. The opening of the carnival consisted, curiously enough, of three or four balls for children ; after a few hours the little guests departed to make room for the grown-ups. My husband declared himself unre- servedly against this unchildlike amusement. Only in the case of the children's ball given by the Stackelbergs was an exception unavoidable. Henriette still holds a lively memory of this early look into the great world. She remembers with pleasure her little experiences at this ball, and with horror that she nearly stepped on the toes of the King of Prussia. I tried to keep my eye on my little treasures as much as possible in the crowd of this colorful world of children and DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 33 princely personages, of attentive mothers and young women busy with themselves; I observed with pleasure her natural, childlike manner, which stood so favorably in contrast to that of her playmates, who for the most part were re- splendent in most unchildlike decorations. Their high coiffures were adorned with artificial flow- ers, they wore gowns of silk and tulle; the bou- quet on the left side and the little fan completed their woman's finery. Most of them were very pretty; they formed a pleasing group of chil- dren, among which my own dear ones had a de- served place. Despite the apparent unanimity and agree- ment w^ith which the princes and their ministers associated, this attitude in general was mislead- ing, for exactly in this month of January the Congress was almost disrupted by the increasing enmity. On January 16, King Frederick told me that Czar Alexander had replied to Metternich's in- vitation to a ball with a negative and the added remark that he would rather fight him with pis- tols. Others declared that the czar had informed Emperor Francis that so long as Metternich remained no results could be attained, for he spoiled everything. Even before unity had been restored the sov- ereigns appeared together in public once more; 34 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE it was when they met to commemorate with feel- ings born of the most painful memories the re- quiem mass for Louis XVI on January 21. The ceremony itself was most dignified, and enhanced by the beautiful music. Little could be heard of the sermon, which Talleyrand him- self had written, and the cold affected all more than anything else. My dear husband returned chilled. I had, however, limited myself to visit- ing the beautiful Stephan's church after the cere- mony to view its memorial decorations, which were not at all appropriate. I had made an ap- pointment for this purpose with the Countess Caroline zur Lippe-Biickeburg. If I must tell why I did not attend this great ceremony, I shall have to confess that I did not have the necessary rich winter wardrobe. This circumstance had already caused me to miss promenades on the glacis, and yet I did not think for a moment of procuring a second winter hat when the old one was in good condition and elegant enough for other events. If luxuries continue to increase in the same measure in the next twenty-three years as they have in the last twenty-three years, my children and grandchildren, who once will read this, will be astounded principally at the simplicity of my wardrobe. They would be mistaken if they believed that I procured many new costumes for DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 35 the never-ending festivities of the Congress. No, I do not recall having had any other expenses, outside of the unavoidable ones for white gloves and white shoes, for the hair-dresser, who came daily, for the two costumes for the carousal and the masquerade, and beyond the little trousseau which my husband had brought for me from Paris, which included several rich and one or two ball costumes. In order to give an indication of the simplicity of the modes of that time I might remark that a small tulle cap with rose-colored decorations had to serve me even at the great soirees where there was dancing. Up to that time caps for young women had been unheard of, and the mode had just arrived. The richest Viennese women were distinguished for their simplicity, and appeared covered with their jew- els only at the great festivities ; they never looked down with scorn upon those who were more sim- ply attired than they. During a dinner at the home of the Princess Bagration I was amused to hear the wager which Czar Alexander made with the Countess Flora Wrbna [born Countess Kageneck, wife of Count Eugen Wrbna] as to which one could dress most quickly for a formal occasion. I was not pres- ent when the wager was carried out a few days later, but I heard a great deal about it. The czar and Flora arrived at Zichy's at the stroke 36 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE of nine, and showed themselves to the assembled guests in ordinary attire, without a cloak or any other covering. Then both were led aside by witnesses who had been chosen with great solem- nity. The czar appeared in five minutes in full uniform, with silk hose, etc., and found Flora also ready, attired in a complete French court costume of the ancien regime, which appeared most comical. She had even found time to add beauty-spots and to powder her hair ; neither the shoes with high heels nor the bouquet had been forgotten, and she wore small gauntlets. Enough ; nothing was lacking. For winning the wager she received a gracious note from the Czar of All the Russians and almost a library. As the winter festivities went on, early spring arrived, mild breezes blew, and seemed about to bring the buds of life. We went on a pleasure drive, which in contrast to sleighing we called a "Pirutschade." I had been named the partner of the Archduke John. It was most opportune that on the evening before I met our Oriental singer, the famous Hammer, during a visit at the home of my friends, the Beroldingens. Ham- mer was in the confidence of the Archduke John. I did not hide the fact that I was a bit appre- hensive because of the long hours that I was to pass in such close company with a man whom I did not know and at best had hardly seen. DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 37 although I had heard nothing but the best re- ports of him, in addition to knowing about the originahty of his people and of his province, Styria. Hammer thereupon amused us by de- claring that the embarrassment of the noble man was no less than mine, and that he was worried about the manner in which he should entertain me. "You know her," he had told Hammer, "so please inform me how I can amuse her and with what I can win her interest. That she is a competent woman I know, but what else she is I don't know." And thereupon the archduke had asked whether he might interest me by talking about music. "Oh, no!" our friend had replied. "Of all things in the world, but not music." I promised the gleeful group that I would return on the day following the drive to make a report on the turn that this greatly feared adventure had taken, and I kept my word; for I assured them all triumphantly that the arch- duke and I had been greatly pleased with each other, and that while together time had gone with lightning-like rapidity. And this was actually true, for my guide had so much common sense and tact and such learning, and I was so inter- ested in what he told me in his pure German speech, that his conversation, so strongly in con- trast to that usually carried on in the great world, 38 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE caused me so much pleasure that I gladly over- looked what it lacked in brightness and grace. At two o'clock I was ready for the drive in the carriage. I found most of the members of the company already assembled in the strongly heated halls of the Burg; nevertheless we had to remain there attired in heavy furs in order to wait for a few late-comers. Finally the line started. We passed through the principal streets of Vienna, through the avenues of the Prater, even the most distant, and so by means of all sorts of imaginable detours to our destination, the Augarten. This goal was too near for most of the participants, and this also was my case, for my partner was just describing the years of the war and oppression in the most interesting manner. Before that he expressed pleasure be- cause the populace showed more enthusiasm for my King of the Danes than for any other of the great lords who drove by. We had the oppor- tunity to observe this well, because he drove ahead of us with the Grand Duchess Marie Pavlovna of Weimar, sister of Czar Alexander. Not only in one street or at one spot; no, every- where the incessant cheering of the people greeted him. But my archduke also was greeted with demonstrations of the unusual regard that he enjoys. Upon arriving at the pavilion of the Augarten DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 39 we disposed of our furs and then proceeded to dinner, during which the old Prince Albert of Saxe-Tesche, a son-in-law of the Empress Maria Theresa, sat beside me, and I was placed oppo- site the empresses. On a stage that had been constructed tor this event we saw Caroline Seid- ler appear for the first time in the role of Agnes Sorel. I had seen her in the summer of 1812, when, almost a child, she played the part of Susanna in "The Wedding of Figaro" at the birthday celebration of the old Prince von Labko- witz. She had been for a long time absent from the stage, and in the meantime had developed her voice to its fullest proficiency. After the theater we drove back under the light of torches, and when I returned late that night, tired out, but most happy, I found my family still at tea await- ing me. This was the last care-free event of what seemed to be an endless line of festivals of the Congress. A few days later the report that the prisoner of Elba had flown spread through the assembly of care-free merry-makers, and fear dampened our spirits. But the daily activities of the pleasure-seekers went on, nor would any one of them confess the extent of their perturba- tion. I shall never forget the day when the first report of the landing of Napoleon in the Gulf 40 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE of Juan, between Cannes and Antibes, reached Vienna. It was on a Saturday, I think the fifth or the sixth of March, toward evening, when my husband first received this news at the Burg, where an audience was gathering for a theatrical performance, and whispered it to me; for one dared not yet mention aloud the name of the vanquished enemy, even if up to that day it had been hoped that he was banned forever. Although the politicians were accustomed to control themselves, this terrible news could be clearly read on their features. It was written most deeply on those of Talleyrand; it was ex- pressed most loudly by Stewardt, and Alexan- der's paleness, his earnest physiognomy, showed clearly what he would not have confessed at any costs. His usual triumphant look was already gone. Yet it was hoped that the European prisoner, who had been so poorly guarded, would be caught before he could set the world afire anew. In this hope they tried to make the best of a bad bargain, and on March 13 issued the proc- lamation declaring Napoleon an outlaw, which has been so often criticized. Eight days after that ominous evening we were again invited to the Burg. It was thought that the suspense of waiting for further news might be overcome by diversions; comedies and tableaux were to hold the interest of the gather- DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 41 ing. But in vain. All were more or less down- cast; for the post had just brought news of the worst sort. Napoleon had entered Lyons amid the enthusiasm of the populace; the troops that had been sent against him had for the most part joined him. It was now felt that the act of out- lawry was not sufficient and that war would be unavoidable, had not Talleyrand said at once: "II faut courir lui comme sur un chien enrage." [*'It is necessary to fall upon him as on a mad dog."] The Congress appeared like a theatrical per- formance while the house was burning. The artists were dismissed before the last act. All thought only of momentary salvation. I myself was deeply moved; my health suffered, and I believed for a moment that I would be down with jaundice. I saw the color daily in Koss, and Minister Rosencranz also suffered severely 1 from it ; luckily, this calamity did not come to me. ] After all the sacrifices of the previous cam- paigns we now looked forward to a new war, I which would be destructive enough in all its I forms and results even if the outcome were suc- : cessful, w^hich no one doubted. And would the \ good allies again commit a foolhardly act and j place an inefficient watch over Napoleon? j Would they allow themselves again to be robbed I of the fruits of victory? 42 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE I cannot refrain from mentioning a trick which was not only inopportune at this earnest moment, but rather unworthy of the statesman who perpetrated it. No matter how important the moment appeared to Prince Metternich, nor how irksome and depressing the events must have been to him, his mood for a practical joke pre- vailed so far over the seriousness of the situation that he did not desist from giving his secretary, Herr von Gentz, the keeper of the minutes of the Congress, a scare that was almost fatal in its consequences. He prepared a manifesto in which Napoleon was represented as offering a reward of many thousands of ducats to the per- son who would deliver Gentz dead or alive to him, or who would simply produce proofs of his murder. This manifesto was placed in a news- paper copy that had been specially printed for the occasion, and then delivered to the bedside of this faint-hearted man with his morning's coffee. To the great joy of his superior, this almost paralyzed the unfortunate secretary. Every one spoke of leaving. The Empress Elizabeth of Russia, born Princess of Baden, gave the signal for departure. We had a fare- well audience with her together with a large number of others at her home ; it was a most im- posing circle. The empress called my husband to her and said many flattering things to him in DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 43 a gracious and yet extremely sincere manner. This scene has left so lively an impression on my memory that I could paint it. The sweet dig- nity of this noble, unhappy princess cannot be praised too much. I will mention an unimpor- tant event in this connection solely in order to speak of her for a moment longer. Her attire was always simple, and enhanced by the beauty of her diamonds or pearls. A theatrical per- formance was about to be given at court; we had just seated ourselves before the lowered cur- tain when the bands of a costly collar of pearls worn by the empress parted, and these beautiful pearls rolled down, disappearing under the seats. We wished to pick them up, but she stopped the movement with her kindly commanding request that we do not bother ; it is not worth the trouble. From now on only farewell dinners and sup- pers interrupted the daily life of the household, for with the preparations for war came also the preparations for the devotion which every one more or less determined to observe at Easter. I had long wished to hear a sermon by Zacha- rias Werner, the famous poet and convert, who while still a Protestant wrote the play "The Consecration of Might," in which he glorified Luther. I had been deterred during advent not only by the cold, but also because I feared the enormous crowd in the various little churches 44 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE where he preached, and from the pulpit of which he thundered especially against the frivolity of the Congress of Vienna. He had also given much attention to the levity of the Viennese women, and assured them that he respected their cooks more than themselves, addressing them as *'Meine gnadigen, doch nun vielleicht ungnadig- en Damen" ["My gracious, but now perhaps un- gracious, ladies"]. On another occasion he made an improper and scandalous confession of his own sins; then again he spoke of horses and horse-breeding. At another time he stepped from the pulpit with the words: "You believe that the kings and lords have made peace? Foolishness ! Amen !" Now in holy week I found two opportunities to hear him. Joachim accompanied me to church, but each time I found all seats taken, and had to be satisfied with sitting on a balustrade opposite the pulpit. I found in Werner a zealot who often said very trivial and again very ele- vated things, accompanied by vulgar and exces- sive gesticulations; so that I might call him the Jean Paul of the pulpit. Sometimes he sat, sometimes he stood, and often he knelt, and fre- quently tears interrupted his discourse. On holy Thursday, March 23, we partook of holy communion with Oberconsistorialrat Waechter. On Sunday, the twenty-sixth, I DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 45 found our king with his entire suite in the Dan- ish chapel. Up to that time I had always avoid- ed such a meeting. Now I sat there beside the king, Henriette at my side, quiet and reverent; but sad to relate, during the sermon she dropped a little collection of kreuzer that she carried for us. They rolled about the floor with a great deal of noise, and his majesty himself picked up most of them. In the middle of February I went to the last soiree given by the Castlereaghs before their de- parture. We said to ourselves that the farewell was for life, even if we did not suspect what a tragic destiny lay in store for this man of honor. A few years later he ended, by cutting his throat, a busy and what appeared to be a happy life. His successor, the hero, the Duke of Wellington, viewed the world of women espe- cially with askance. Finally this honorable, good-looking man appeared, decorated with or- ders, covered with renown. Was it for this that the women crowded around him and begged a kiss from him upon being presented? Was it North German custom that kept me in the back- ground or perhaps an ardor dampened somewhat through my acquaintance with other heroes or a surviving diffidence that caused me to keep aloof? Enough; I did not rush toward him, so that I had to seek an opportunity later of being 46 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE presented to him, for this belonged to the eti- quette which was observed by an ambassador. Regarding his sociability in Vienna I will merely say that he did not follow the example of his predecessor of receiving every evening, but set apart one or two days a week for this purpose, on which society crowded into his home. Once, in the early days of March, his doors were open, and his reception-rooms were filled with his fol- lowing, with Lady Radcliffe present to do the honors. He himself, however, had departed on an excursion to Pressburg. His dupes included not only many of most respected persons, but also the King of Prussia. Conduct such as this won nothing for the ambassador of Great Britain. Despite this — that is to say, in the latter part of May, April, and most of May — Czar Alex- ander took walks continually with his bosom friend. Prince Eugene de Beauharnais, former Viceroy of Italy. The Viennese, who had looked at this friendship with askance from the start, were now furious at it. It is generally be- lieved that this stepson of Napoleon meant to betray his new friends and his patron, and it is thought that his humbled and, since the appear- ance of Napoleon, tearful mien is only a mask. Alexander does not permit himself to be DANCED AT THE CONGRESS 47 warned, at least not by words. The warning, therefore, becomes more pointed, for at a street corner a female fruit-vendor throws rotten apples at the pair, so that they have to take refuge in the first house at hand. CHAPTER II A FAMOUS WIT AT THE CONGRESS FROM THE REMINISCENCES OF THE COUNT DE LA GARDE To the statesmen and generals at the Congress of Vienna Charles-Joseph, Prince de Ligne, was a link with the past. When the Congress met, he was already in his eightieth year, and yet his mind was as active as when he entered the Austrian Army over sixty years before. He had friends in every court in Europe, and was sought out by such men as Rousseau, Voltaire, Schlegel, Goethe, and Frederick the Great. He was born in Brussels of Belgian parentage, and passed most of his military life with the Austrian Army. His title of field marshal came from Catharine II of Russia, to whom he refers in his talk with Count de la Garde. The latter was a gallant of the time of the Congress. He was born in 1783 of French parentage, and through the death of his parents entered the house of his kins- man, the Marquis de Chambonas, who was related by marriage to the Prince de Ligne. De la Garde escaped the Terror with his patron, and then entered upon a career of light-hearted vagabondage, tasting the gay social life at the European courts, a friend of Mme. ' 48 A FAMOUS WIT AT THE CONGRESS 49 Recamier and Queen Hortense, the latter writing music for some of his poems. A FAMOUS WIT AT THE CONGRESS OF VIENNA On the day after my arrival I made haste to pay my respects to the Prince de Ligne. "You have come at the proper time to behold great events," he said to me. ^'Europe is in Vienna. The web of politics is shot through with festivities." Thereupon with youthful vivacity he asked me a number of questions — about Paris, my famil}^ my travels, and my plans, until we were inter- rupted by the announcement that his carriage was ready. "I shall expect you at dinner to-morrow," he said, "and thence we will attend the masked ball. In a few moments I will point out to you the sights of this great scene." At nine o'clock we reached the imperial palace, called the Burg. In this ancient palace a mum- mers' show was taking place; character masks appeared, and often under the immobility of the domino they concealed political combinations, masterpieces of intrigue or plans. The prin- cipal hall was splendidly lighted, and was sur- rounded by a circular gallery that opened into spacious rooms in which arrangements for supper 50 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE had been made. Upon the rows of seats that were built like an amphitheater sat a group of women, a number of them in domino costumes, but the majority in character costumes. One can think of nothing more imposing than this assemblage of young and beautiful women, each adorned particularly to suit her charms; all the centuries, all the countries, seemed to have met as if by design in this circle. At regular intervals the orchestras played suc- cessively the polonaise and the waltz; in the adjoining halls minuets were danced with Ger- man earnestness, and this was in no wise the least amusing part of the picture. The prince was right, Vienna at that time was a cross-section of Europe, and this ball a cross- section of Vienna. Nothing was more bizarre than these masked and unmasked persons, among whom without distinction moved all the sover- eigns attending the Congress. "Observe," said the Prince de Ligne to me, "this pleasing figure of elegant and military bearing. That is Czar Alexander. He offers his arm to Prince Eugene de Beauharnais, for whom he has developed a sincere liking. Upon Eugene's arrival here with his father-in-law, the King of Bavaria, the Austrian court was in doubt what rank to give him. The Czar of Russia, however, spoke so favorably of him that he was A FAMOUS WIT AT THE CONGRESS 51 given a reception in keeping with his noble character. The czar, as you know, inspires friendship and has a feehng for friendship. "Do you know that man with the tall, noble figure, whom the beautiful Neapolitan holds cap- tive with her rounded arms? It is the King of Prussia, whose earnest face, nevertheless, re- mains immobile. And this mischievous masked figure is perhaps an empress and perhaps only a grisette. "This frank countenance, on which good-heart- edness is pictured, is Maximilian, King of Ba- varia, who, although he occupies a throne, has not forgotten his place as colonel in the French service and who holds for his subjects the love that once he gave his regiment. "That short, pale man yonder with the Roman nose and the white-blond hair is the King of Den- mark. Political considerations had caused an unfavorable feeling toward him on the part of the sovereigns, but the charm of his conduct, the frankness and magnanimity of his character, soon won him all hearts. His animated and cheerful disposition and his happy sallies are the joy of the royal assemblies; he is known here as the jester of the sovereign's brigade. When you observe the simplicity of his manners and know what good fortune his little kingdom enjoys, you 52 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE will hardly come to the conclusion that he is the most absolute monarch of Europe. "This gigantic figure, whose proportions the black domino can neither conceal nor diminish, is the King of Wiirtemberg. Beside him stands his son, the crown prince, whose love for the Grand Duchess of Oldenburg, sister of Czar Alexander, draws him to the Congress and prob- ably occupies him even more than the important interests that one day will be his. We shall soon be able to watch this romance unfold. "The two young men who have just passed by are the crown prince of Bavaria and his brother. Prince Karl. The head of the prince may well be compared to that of Antinous. This great surging crowd of human beings of varied appear- ance and costumes are ruHng princes or arch- dukes or exalted personages of the various king- doms; for outside of a number of Englishmen, who may be recognized by their well-chosen at- tire, there is surely not a single person here who does not have a title added to his name. Now I have initiated you fairly well ; you may now go your own way." After the prince left me, I continued my wan- derings through the hall, and as if called together by a general rendezvous, I met, one after another, all the persons with whom I had become ac- quainted from Naples to St. Petersburg and A FAMOUS WIT AT THE CONGRESS 53 from Stockholm to Constantinople. What a motley of costumes and tongues! This fete ap- peared to me like a bazaar of all the nations of the world. As if for the first time I felt the en- chantment of a masked ball. The uninterrupted music, the secrecy surrounding the disguises, the intrigues by which I was surrounded, the general incognito, the merry-making without measure or restraint, the wealth of seductive opportunities, — in a word, the magic of this great social picture confused my mind, and even older and stronger natures were overcome by it. I was soon surrounded by friends, so that at a moment when the Prince de Ligne was occu- pied with only a few^ persons, I asked him to go to no more pains on my account for this evening. I plunged myself into the tumult of joy, of care- free feeling and happiness, which everywhere seemed to dominate the whirl of this extraordi- nary gathering. I met a few more friends, in whose company I cheerfully passed the two hours that remained before supper; then about twenty of us sat down at table to see the end of this jolly evening together. Toward the end of the soiree I was lucky enough to meet my excellent friend General Tet- tenborn. Upon parting. General Tettenborn said to me: "Until to-morrow; I will be at your house at 54* A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE ten o'clock. We will then proceed to the great military festival that is being held to celebrate peace. Before we lay down our arms the mon- archs wish to thank Providence for the extraor- dinary favor shown them." At the appointed hour Tettenborn presented himself with the punctuality of an Austrian cap- tain of cavalry. It was a mild and clear October morning. Soon we trotted upon the glacis be- tween the Neue Tor and the Burg Tor. On the way we were joined by several friends who also were led on by curiosity. Tettenborn wore his resplendent military uniform; the great number of military orders that decorated his breast demonstrated that he had proved himself worthy of the protection of the Goddess of Fortune. Hardly had we arrived in the Prater when he had to leave us in order to join the suite of Czar Alexander; I, however, remained surrounded by friends, and soon we found a favorable place where we could observe all the details of this beautiful festival. Although one could attend events of this kind frequently enough in that sol- dierly time, I do not think that any ever equaled this in splendor and majesty. The war, which had terrified the world by its bitterness and length, was over. The giant of renown had not been conquered, but crushed by weight of num- bers; and the cheering and enthusiasm called A FAMOUS WIT AT THE CONGRESS 55 forth by this success demonstrated sufficiently- well the power of the antagonist and the unex- pectedness of the triumph. Numerous battalions of infantry and regi- ments of cavalry, among them the Schwarzen- berg Uhlan Regiment and the cuirassiers of Grand Duke Constantine, had gathered on an enormous meadow. All of these troops were in most dazzling array. The sovereigns arrived on horseback. The troops formed a double square, in the center of I which a great tent, or, rather, a temple in honor ; of the general peace, had been erected. The pil- lars which supported the tent were decorated I with trophies of weapons, and standards that I fluttered in the breeze. Everywhere the ground ( was bedecked with leaves and flowers. In the I middle of the tent stood an altar richly adorned I with draperies of gold and silver and all the I pomp of the Catholic faith. Countless candles ! shed their light, which was dimmed by the rays : that the sun sent down in all its glory. The steps ( of the altar were covered with carpets of red : damask. I Soon the royal carriages, drawn by four horses, 1 arrived with the empresses, queens, and duch- I esses, who seated themselves upon the velvet-up- ' bolstered arm-chairs. Finally, when this dazzling assembly, this crowd of military men, courtiers, 56 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE masters of the horse, and pages had taken the places set aside for them, the honored Archbishop of Vienna, surrounded by his clergy, began the mass, a function that he had reserved for himself despite his advanced age. The entire population of Vienna and its environs had streamed in to attend this solemn service. At the moment of the consecration of the host a salvo of artillery greeted the presence of the God of Battles. At the same moment, as if by a sign, all these warriors, kings, princes, gener- als, and soldiers fell upon their knees and bowed down before the One Whose hands held the de- cision of victory or defeat. The tremendous crowd of spectators seemed to be seized by the same feeling; with one accord they bared their heads and knelt in the dust. The cannon became silent, and a solemn stillness followed the thun- der of the guns. Finally the priest of the Lord raised aloft the symbol of redemption and turned toward the army to give the blessing. The serv- ice was concluded, the bowed figures rose, and the clatter of Weapons again filled the air. A chorus of voices began a hymn to peace in German, and a large band of wind instruments played an accompaniment. Suddenly the whole army and all the countless spectators joined in the singing. No, never before has the human ear heard anything more affectin*]^ than when A FAMOUS WIT AT THE CONGRESS 57 those thousands of voices melted together as one in praising the beneficence of peace and the glory of the Almighty. After the religious ceremony the rulers and all the princesses placed themselves on a rise of ground near the Burg Tor. The troops paraded before them ; Grand Duke Constantine and other princes marched at the head of the regiments that had been presented to them. From all sides came cheers and appeals for the preservation of peace, the first need of the peoples. The inventive faculty was not too tired to pro- pose new festivities daily, banquets, concerts, hunting-parties, masked balls, carousals. Fol- lowing the example of the head of their exalted family, all the princes of the Austrian house had divided the duties of hospitality between them in order to extend to their distingushed guests the entertainment of Vienna. It was considered so undesirable to interrupt this succession of amuse- ments that the court did not even put on mourn- ing for Queen Marie Caroline of Naples, and jthis despite the fact that this one surviving daugh- iter of ]Maria Theresa had ended her eventful life before the entry of the monarchs into Vienna. I Any effort to announce her death publicly was jscrupulously avoided; this assembly, dedicated I only to insouciance and pleasure, was not to be I given a mournful tinge. 58 A PEACE CONGRESS OF INTRIGUE Nothing equaled the mutual confidence with which these monarchs lived together. They studied how to perform little acts of friendship and good-will. They met daily, and yet this did not detract from the sincerity of their frank de- meanor, which was worthy of the times of chiv- alry. Did they propose by means of this honor- able conduct to wipe out all the reported misun- derstandings, the selfish scheming, the play for personal advantage, usual at the congresses of kings? Or were they astonished and entranced at a life and a fraternal relation which stood in such strong contrast to the stiff formalities of their courts? In order to avoid the embarrassments of for- malities and disputes over precedence in rank, it was unanimously decided to abide by the rule of seniority upon entering and leaving a room and on the horseback-rides and pleasure-drives. The suggestion for this decision is credited to Czar Alexander. The rank according to age was placed as follows : 1. King of Wiirtemberg, born in the year 1754 2. King of Bavaria, (( a (( « 1756 3. King of Denmark, ((