m^. ;% ,^^ %„''i^'^ ^^^0^'' >.5 'U <^' .v^ ■^, ^^•^ ^'■i'^ .Cio .A^'^r. .-i" '^ v^' .a r, V x^ "^- ' C -■/.•••.„^' ■^ ■%. --p.. ^^ A' .4- % f^ s^ 7 « i; •^^, " ° ' > "c » ^ ^ ^^i^m ^/. S- V^"^ ■^" O^ -''c*- \y their trade as if they cared vciy little about selling tlioir articles. The shops are all closed before sunset, and the Bazaars, crowded throughout the day, arc then deserted. ILLUSTRATIONS. xvii TO I'AOE PAGE 6. 'Mosque of Sultan Hassan, 55 This is the maiu entrance of the Mosque, the whole of Avhich forms so conspicuous a feature on the right hand of the general view of Cairo that faces the title-page. The minarets and the cupola or dome are at the left of this engraving, and hidden from the spectator, who stands iu the street. The carvings of the front, and especially in tlie porch, ai'e exti'eniely beautiful, and the effect of the whole is rendered very pecuUar by the mingling of layers of black and red marble with the white of wliich the mosque is principally composed. In the street is a bridal procession, such as is described at page 170 ; but hei'e the subject is one of the wealthier classes, and therefore the bride is covered with a canopy, and hired musicians playing on wind instruments, drums and cymbals, take the place of zughareet or the shrill cry of the women. 7. Entrance to El Azhar, 56 The principal street-front of this Mosque is by no means as imposing as that of Sultau Has- san, but its interior is for more extensive and magnificent. In the street are seen donkeys capa- '' risoned for the use of women who are coming from the Mosque. By looking at tlie donkey in the picture of the Bazaar, the reader will see the mode of saddling for the riding of men. The little boy seated at the door has just come from the school held iu one of tlie large squares of the Mosque, and has in his hand the board upon wliich the pupils are tauglit to read and wi'ite. 8. Interior of a House at Cairo, 60 9. Tombs of the Memlook Sultans, - 67 Tliis is an accurate representation of the appearance of tliese splendid but now neglected edifices. They are near to Caii'o, and tliis view must have been taken at a short distance from the walls of the city. But the region is desolate, — not a sprig of verdure is to be seen, and the liiUs beyond are naked and barren, a portion of the Mokattum range. 10. Tomb of Sultan Ka'i'dbai, 68 The previous engraving shows the group of Tombs and Mosques in the distance. The two in each case are united, or rather the Mosque was built with a view to its being used as a splendid mausoleum for its founder. This gives a near view of the most beautiful of these edifices, all of which are remarkable. Their proportions are different but symmetrical. The arabesque tracery or fret-work upon the domes and minarets is exceedingly varied and of exquisite designs. It seems as if the eye could never be wearied in following out these most singular geometrical combina- tions. Mi\ Bartlett, to whom we are indebted for the picture, thus speaks of this edifice : " The lofty minaret, with its successive stages, tapering gracefully to the summit, and connected by galleries, is a beautiful specimen of this unique invention of Mahommedan art in its highest enrichment, and the dome is perhaps imequalled for its graceful proportion and its deUcate detail, the whole producing an effect at once grave, elegant, and fanciful ; an original combina- tion, wliich no one at all affected by art, nor even one of a ruder stamp, can possibly behold without a feeling of exquisite delight." 11. The Ferry at Old Cairo, 71 XVlll ILLUSTRATIONS. TO FACE PAGE 12 The Pyeamids, .73 At the right hand is the Great Pyramid, that of Cheops, irhich we ascended. The centre one is that of Cephrenes, on the upper portion of wliicli the smooth surface or casing yet remains. The one between the palm-trees is that of Mycerinus. The head of the Sphinx is barely Tisible, and appears like a spot, on the right hand below the small Pyi'amids. 13. The Sphinx, 78 This represents the object as seen near by, the spectator being in the hollow. The reader must remember this, or he will be apt to get a false idea of the relative size of the two objects, the Sphinx and the Pyramids. Tlie Sphinx, though so colossal, as may be seen by comparing with it the human figm-e near by, is yet notliing in comparison with the Pyramids. To obtain an idea of the relative masses, see the previous engraving. 14. A Slave Boat at Girgeh, 99 15. The Shadoof with the Date and Doum Palms, 101 For a description of the mode of raising water by the Shadoof here represented, see page 91. 16. A Map of the Plain of Thebes, 103 « 17. Valley of the Tombs of the Kings, 105 18. The Hall of Beauty, 109 This is a portion of what is called Belzoni's Tomb. 19. The Plain of Thebes, Ill 20. Colossal Statue of Eameses the G-reat, 112 21. LuxoE FROM the Water, 115 22. Obelisk and Propylon, Luxor, 116 23. Approach to Karnak, 117 24. The two Colossi, 119 The nearest is the Mcmnoii. The engraving represents the Nile as overllowing the jilain. but when we were there the river was low and the iilain dry. ILLUSTRATIONS. xix TO FACE PAGE 25. Meedinet Abou, 120 26 Kaenak — Eetrospective View of the Grand Hall, . . . .121 27. Karnak First Court, 122 28. Kaenak G-rajstd Hall, 188 Zlniira .^AV'v■<^ K* HtMffAMAJhitfJI-JIrwtiftMvm . ^ntrnhirtinti. A PiLGElMAaE to Egypt and the Holy Land ! How many vivid pictures of the ancient time and the oldest world rise up before us in the thoughts of the first ; and how many sacred and long cherished associations spring to life at the simple mention of the name Palestine ! The cradle of man's civilization, and the birthplace of two and the only Divine religions ! We shall see the Land of Bondage and the Land of Promise ! Here the slaves became God's freemen, and the once polished and highly civilized people of the Pharaohs have here sunk into the bond-slaves of the Pashas ! Egypt, the birthplace of the great divine lawgiver, Moses ; the school of the greatest Greek philosopher, Plato ; the land of the first mysteries and miracles ; then, and now, and always the scene of that ceaseless wonder where heaven withholds his showers, and the faithful Nile supplies the lack of the skies. Egypt ! mysteries of priests ; short-lived triumphs of magic ; undying victory of Moses; emigration of the shepherd people; notwithstand- ing the horsemen, and chariots, and armies of Pharaoh ; the Eed Sea and the river ; the pyramids, and the dumb and dead hieroglyphics to which the genius and industry of the scholars of our own time have given the life and living tongue that they wanted during so many hoarse or silent ages — these all are before us, and beyond the desert lies the Promised Land ! 1 STAETING POINT. — ROME. ROME. January 22d, 1849. — Last evening, witli Mr. Minturn, I left Eome for Civit^ Veccliia, to meet the French steamboat for Naples. There we embark for Malta, our starting point for Egypt and Palestine. An -undertaking so fall of interest on account of the scenes where the chief events in the world's story transpired ; a pilgrimage which few devout readers of our Holy Books have not longed to accomplish, was nevertheless begun with some anxiety, and after very full dehberation. For myself, how much soever I desired, I should not have dreamed of attempting it alone, and very few persons would have satisfied me as companions on that journey ; or, at that time, have induced me to accompany them. It was hard to decide to leave my wife and daughter for an absence of some months at the least ; still harder to leave them at Rome, where there had been just apprehensions of great political troubles. But after full inquiry, and the counsel of friends who had the best chance of gaining and giving correct information, we found we could leave our families with a perfect assurance of their ordinary safety. For their comfort we took every precaution. But after all, our courage would have failed in the end, and our whole plan have been abandoned at the last moment, but for their disinterested expostu- lations. For my own part, my solicitude was such the day before leaving Eome, that had my dear wife or daughter expressed a single apprehension for themselves, or interposed a solitary objection to the enterprise, I should have given it up at once. But they generously forgot themselves, and thought only of the satisfaction I should derive from this journey to the East ; and instead of saying or looking any thing to dishearten me, they earnestly assured me not only of their wUlingness but of their anxiety that I should go, and with the utmost cheerfulness made the necessary preparations for my departure. I bade them farewell I — commending them to the God who saves, and who THE DILIGENCE AND THE EOBBEES. 3 will ever lead and keep us in the riglit way, if in faith, and humility we follow His monitions. At the office of the diligence, so called by way of contrast no doubt, we found as usual in Italy, a great want of the quality expressed by the name. But " nothing lasts always ;" neither does delay. So at length we took places in the coupe^ or front house of this slow travelling village, and found to our comfort that we had our apartment to ourselves. Two other undiligent car- riages, well filled with a pilgrim population, made up our Italian caravan. We were not sorry to seem so strong, for come il solito, or according to old usage in Italy, there was talk of thieves between Eome and Civita Vecchia ; and, by the same custom, the sound was more substantial than the reality. But imagi- nation is very strong, and we did not feel the more secure because we were told of the highwaymen ; and the old traditions of Italy grouped themselves together, especially as our journey was in the night-time. We looked so forcible that we saw no robbers. We were however stopped once, and requested to alight and walk over a bridge, said to be unsafe for that cumbrous conglomera- tion of loaded apartments called a diligence. I have observed constantly, in Italy, a commendable watchfulness, and a precaution to avert accidents, which contrasts favorably with our national and hurried recklessness of the safety of limbs and life. Arriving very early in the morning, we refreshed ourselves at a very com- fortable hotel ; and, on rising, found that the steamboat from Marseilles had arrived the night before, and would sail at ten o'clock. This was very agree- able intelligence ; for the political troubles had so much interrupted the com- munications that we had some fear of being detained at CivitA Vecchia. As there is little here to interest the traveller, it would have been peculiarly tan- talizing to have been kept in suspense so near to Eome and our families, and yet be unable to visit them for fear of losing our passage. At the appointed hour we went on board the Leonidas, and secured the only state-room left vacant. She had her full complement of passengers in the principal cabin, and a good number in the second. Among these were two Franciscan monks, on their way to study Arabic in a monastery of their order upon Mount 4 NAPLES. — BRITISH "POLICY. Lebanon. As they seemed to be amiable and intelligent men, I had a good deal of pleasant conversation with them, as far as my limited knowledge of Italian would permit. We passed Ostia, the ancient port of Eome, but at a considerable distance, and the weather being somewhat hazy, we could see but very little of it. The cupola of St. Peter's at Eome is said to be visible in clear weather from vessels sailing along the coast. When on the top of the dome, I could distinctly discover the Mediterranean ; and, of course, had the opportunity been favor- able, this majestic object might have been seen from the deck of our vessel. So ended the first day of our journey. NAPLES. 23d — I rose early this morning and went on deck, in the hope of obtaining a good view of Vesuvius and the bay of Naples by sunrise ; bat, to my disap- pointment, I found that the land- was almost hidden from sight by heavy clouds and occasional showers. As we approached, however, the clouds began to lift up, and revealed to us the lines of houses in the city, and the white villas climbing up the sides of the surrounding hills. We sailed through the English fleet, lying majestically at anchor, and showing their formidable broad- sides to the people of Naples. As they are there for some purpose of intimi- dation or interposition, I should suppose they must be looked upon with no favorable eye. The policy, so utterly disapproved by all Americans, of one state interfering in the internal concerns of another, appears indeed to me to be a very mistaken one. It has certainly cost Great Britain immense sums of money, and loaded her with a debt which can never be paid off. Our national debt has been paid several times and will be paid again ; but hers can be wiped out only by some act of violence. But she is not alone. All the stronger nations of Europe have jDursued the same false and unjust policy, and the weaker states have been often obliged to relinquish their rights, and compelled THE BAY. — NEAPOLITAN DEGRADATION. 6 to submit to measures which they utterly disapproved. Sometimes their destruction followed, as in the case of Poland ; but who is ignorant of her sad history ? Such subjects, however, are not within my province, and to discuss them properly is beyond my knowledge or capacity. From these reflections, then, I soon turned to the positive and the material around me. The clouds, though clearing away, had not yet disclosed the outline of the mountains, and as I wished first to know the position of Vesuvius, I asked one of the officers where it was. " There," said he, pointing it out, " do you not see how the smoke pours out?" Upon looking again, I discovered a heavy mass of what I had taken to be only clouds rolling away from the mountain, and could distinguish the volumes of black smoke and white vapour mingling with the ordinary clouds. Gradually the weather changed, the rain ceased, the clouds disappeared, the sun shone out, till Naples and its far-famed bay, stood revealed in all their beauty. A glorious sight indeed it was ; but I must not attempt to describe what has been so often and so beauti- fully depicted not only by the graphic power of language, but in the vivid delineations of the pencil. Hence every body is familiar with the beauties of Naples and the bay. I will only say that the reality did not fall below the anticipation ; and as to Vesuvius, after gazing upon it over and over again, during the whole day, we both came to the conclusion that no description had fully prepared us for so strong an impression of the grandeur of the burning mountain. It was in a state of great commotion, and had been very active for some weeks before. Sometimes, at night, the whole bay had been lighted up by its fires. In addition to what was visible to us, we were told that a stream of lava was then issuing from a new crater which had recently been formed in the opposite side of the mountain. The steamboat which was to take us from Naples to Malta not having yet arrived, we embraced the opportunity of going on shore to see something of the city, and to inquire after our friends. Naples and its people produced an exceedingly unfavorable impression upon us. From the little that we saw and much that we heard, we believe this city, with its noble position and deli- cious climate, to be almost a mass of moral corruption. How sad for human 6 DETESTABLE DESPOTISM. nature, that wherever the physical blessings of heaven seem to be most lavishly- dispensed, there man becomes the most enervated, degraded, and polluted : " In florid beauty groves and fields appear, Man seems the only gro-wth that dwindles here." From the king and queen down to the lowest dregs of the people, unless they are most grossly traduced, there is no reverence for purity or truth, and hardly any appearance of outward restraint to protect them. We had not been on shore an hour before we were cautioned to put our pocket-handkerchiefs into a breast pocket, lest they should be stolen in open day. We were told that it was dangerous to go into any but the most public streets, lest we should be stabbed for our money or watches. The very appearance of the people was disgusting. Such raggedness and filth we had never seen before, and never so many human beings with an expression indicating violent and brutal passions. Then, as regards the relations between the government and the governed, they were the worst possible. The answer of a German resident in Naples to a friend of mine, some years ago, aptly describes the actual posture of affairs. The way being stopped by a column of soldiers, the American observed to the German banker, " I see you are well governed ;" the other significantly enough replied, " well guarded !" The king is almost universally hated, and in order to preserve his power, had, at our visit, 100,000 soldiers in the city ! Which- ever way you turned, in walking around or through Naples, you might see cannon pointed, ready to be discharged, should there happen the slightest tumult among the people. The American charged d'affaires told us that the government had sent a message requesting liim to caution all Americans to keep out of crowds, as the people would be fired upon at the first appearance of commotion. That this threat would be carried out was evident from the cruel and fearful massacre that had already taken place, when the myrmidons of this hateful despot destroyed in the streets so many of the defenceless people. Under these circumstances \ve felt rejoiced indeed that our families were not here. Such was our conviction of the state of insecurity in wliich atc found VESUVIUS. — FANTASTIC CHANGES. 7 Naples, that we should never have dreamed of leaving them here as we had done at Eome. The expected steamboat came into the harbor in the afternoon, but so late that we could not leave before the nest morning. However, we went on board that evening, and found our quarters more comfortable in the Scamander than they had been in the Leonidas. The deck of the vessel afforded a fine position for a view of the mountain, aud we had hopes that we might see something of an eruption ; but we perceived only a lurid flame shooting up occasionally from the crater. A beautiful effect was produced by the lights which shone out strongly against the dark mass of the mountain side. Two of these were very large, and obviously in motion, descending the mountain slowly like balls of fire. We supposed them to be torches carried by parties returning from a visit to the crater. The appearance of the city by night, with ten thousand lights, was also very brilliant. After a quiet enjoyment of this beautiful scene we retired for the night, and thought upon those dear ones whom we had left so recently at Eome, and of others far away in our own beloved land, while petitions arose for their health and safety. NAPLES TO MESSINA. 24:ih. — I was up before the sun, and as Vesuvius was the last object of atten- tion in the evening, so it was the first this morning. Volumes of smoke were still pouring out from the crater, and taking all manner of fantastic forms. For a few seconds nothing would appear but rolling folds of white vapor ; then, suddenly, a round mass or ball of intense blackness would seem to be thrust up by violence from the top of the mountain. Eising higher and higher, it would now take the form of an immense trunk of an old gnarled tree, with all its branches lopped off. Then again, expanding and swinging off, by the force of the wind, in a lateral direction, it would seem like some gigantic four- footed monster, ready to leap down from its lofty pedestal to the plains below. 8 VESUVIUS.- — ^BAY OF BAIiE. At other times it would appear a moving giant, some cyelops escaping from his subterranean labors to breathe the fresh air and cool himself before returning to his workshop of thunderbolts. Thus might imagination create a thousand images out of the unshapen and ever-changing mass. But as the sun came up behind the mountain, the black smoke seemed to grow trasparent, and was tinged with the brightest hues of crimson, like some rich mantle fringed with gold. At last, whether from increasing familiarity with the scene or from the effect of light, the whole subsided into a simple moun- tain with a smoking crest. Still the interest remained ; for there, before me, was the outlet of that vast body of fire which has been burning for countless ages, and which finds its supply of fuel we know not how nor whence. It affords also to a thoughtful and devout observer another evidence of the power of Him, of whom it is said, if His mercy is as great as the heavens His wrath is like a consuming fire. Would that the fear of His wrath might terrify the profligate inhabitants of the city and country which lies around it into some respect for His laws, since His goodness, showered upon them in the richest abundance, in a delicious climate and a fertile soil, has not won them to grati- tude and obedience. At ten o'clock we had received quite an addition to our number of passen- gers. My acquaintances of yesterday, the two Franciscan friars, came on board with another and older brother of their order, who was on his way to Jeru- salem. The steamboat sailed out of the bay with calm, clear weather, and a bright warm sun shining over our heads. This gave life and animation to the city, and to the whole scene of circular hills and mountains studded with villas, so that we could realize and assent to all that is said in praise of their beauty. As the French admiral was at anchor in the bay of Baite, we were obliged to go round to communicate with him before sailing for Malta. But the delay was well compensated by the opportunity which we thus enjoyed of seeing this celebrated sheet of water, and of recalling all the associations connected with it. It would be impossible to pass this beautiful and famous spot without a recollection of some of those incidents in history which here transpired ; and the classical scholar will recall descriptive passages in the Latin poets, repre- CAPRI. — STROMBOLX. 9 senting to the mind's eye scenes wliicli now became familiar to our physical sense : NuEus in orbe sinus Baiis prselucet amsenis. Here, too, we looked anxiously for a spot more interesting still to the Christian reader, Puteoli, the harbor where St. Paul landed, and remained seven days on his journey towards Eome. It is now called Pozzuoli, and is in the very midst of a cluster of places whose names are associated with the tomb of Virgil, the Cumsean sybil, and the Elysium and Avernus of the Latin poet. Leaving the bay of Baise, we sailed by the island of Capri, with its fantastic rocky outline. It looked beautifully, rising from the blue sea, and with its base surrounded by that purple haze which gives such a fine effect to Italian scenery. The day was most delightful, the air warm and soft, the sea almost quiet or just stirred by a gentle breeze. The Italian coast was rugged and bare indeed in appearance, for we were too far off to discover the vineyards and the olive grounds. Yet the glorious tints it wore under the combined influence of the sun and the haze, gave it a rich and picturesque appearance. Towards evening we were informed we should pass the island of Stromboli the next morning before daylight, and I retired early with the purpose of rising in time to see this remarkable volcano. 25th. — Between four and five o'clock Stromboli was said to be in sight, and I instantly arose and went on deck. The weather was not very favorable, as it had been cloudy with some rain ; but we cotild plainly discover the large mass rising suddenly out of the sea. Its shape was that of a cone with a broad base ; or to use a familiar comparison, like an immense haycock. This volcano is in perpetual though not very violent commotion ; like other volcanoes it is said to be more agitated in stormy than in fair weather. Very often a lurid light is seen upon its summit, but we saw only an occasional flash, like faint heat-lightning. Stromboli being left in the rear, our next object of solicitude was to get sight of the Sicilian coast and the straits of Messina ; and if possible to see what gave rise to the reported fears of the ancient mariners in passing 2 10 SCTLiiA AND CHARYBDIS. Scylla and Charybdis. As we drew nigh tlie moutli of the straits we were all on the look out, but we entered without seeing any thing that would excite the - slightest apprehension at the present day. Opinions indeed are divided as to where the rock of Scylla was, and the awful whirlpool of Charybdis seems almost entirely to have disappeared. There is, indeed, a slight agitation of the waters, occasioned I believe by a current which passes through this narrow part of the straits, and during the prevalence of certain winds it is doubtless much increased ; but it never approaches such terrors as those would fancy who know it only through the descriptions of the ancient poets. Dextram Scylla latus, lasvum implacata Charybdis Obsidet, atque imo barathri ter gurgite vastos Sorbet in abruptum fluctus, rursusque sub auras Erigit alternos et sidera verberat unda. At Scyllani ctecis cohibet spelunca latebris, Ora exertautem, et naves in saxa trahentem. Or as Dryden translates the passage : Far on the right, her dogs foul Scylla hides : Charybdis roaring on the left presides ; And in her greedy whirlpool sucks the tides : Then spouts them from below ; with fury driven, The waves mount up and wash the face of heaven ; But Scylla from her den, with open jaws, The sinking vessel in her eddy draws, Then dashes on the rocks. The fact I suppose to be that men who were accustomed to coast along the shores of the tideless Mediterranean only, magnified the dangers of this narrow passage ; marked by a somewhat strong current on one side and a rocky shore upon the other. As it was, we came in sight of Messina without hearing the bark of the dogs of Scylla, or the roar of the whirlpool of Charybdis. HARBOR. — RUINS. 11 MESSINA. Messina is beautifully situated at the base of a range of lofty bills, and possesses a remarkable and very secure harbor. This harbor is protected by a projecting point of land, which together with the main shore forms almost a circle, with the exception of a space sufficiently wide for vessels to enter. From the surrounding hills it presents nearly the shape of a sickle. In the bosom of this secure and spacious bay ships of any tonnage may ride at anchor in perfect safety. We passed a large steamship of war and a French line-of- battle ship. The first thing that struck us was the ruinous condition of the forts upon the point of land which forms the harbor. Upon looking towards the city, however, we soon discovered that it was even in a worse condition ; not only were the forts upon the heights very much battered, but a large number of the houses were almost totally destroyed. A. line of very handsome buildings on the shore was undergoing repair, but the marks of the destructive cannonading they had been exposed to were very visible. Many holes made by the shot, large masses of the walls thrown down, and roofs broken up, clearly showed how much they had suffered. The steamboat haAdng to remain two hours, we went on shore. Our passports had been left behind, through the negligence of the commissary of the boat at Naples, and we were therefore obliged to go to the consul's office to obtain new ones ; here we met the captain of an American ship loading with fruit for Philadelphia. Messina is one of the chief ports for lemons and oranges ; they are raised in large quantities around the city and upon the opposite coast of Italy. As we expressed a desire to see one of the establishments where they are received and packed, the captain politely offisred to accompany us, and took us to the warehouse of some merchants who are very largely engaged in this business. We were received with every attention, and one of the young partners waited upon us through the whole establishment. We went first to the place where the boxes are prepared ; these are made of thin strips of wood nailed to three thick 12 LEMON AND ORANGE TEADE. pieces whicli form the two ends and a centre, dividing the boxes into two com- partments. The thin strips are brought ready sawed from Trieste, and the solid pieces from the country round. These boxes, before they are put toge- ther, are packed in bundles and sent to the orange plantations in the country ; there the boxes are nailed together and filled with the oranges wrapped in paper brought from Naples ; in this state the fruit is sent to the establishment in the city ; the boxes are then opened, and each orange is taken out of the paper and examined by a woman ; if defective it is cast aside, if perfect it is restored to the paper and put into a pile, where a man stands ready to pack the boxes again. The fruit is carefully placed in layers, each box containing a certain number, with some allowance for the difference in size. The orange boxes are now marked and are ready for exportation. The lemons are not brought from the country in boxes but in bags and hampers, and put into large piles in the warehouse ; here again a number of women are occupied in examining the fruit ; the perfect ones are then packed first like the oranges, but the defective are sent in baskets to another establish- ment for the purpose of making lemon juice and essence of lemon for exporta- tion. The process is this : a number of men sit around the pile of lemons, and with knives cut off the outer peel of the lemon, so as to take nearly the whole of it, leaving only the pulp ; this is put under a screw-press, the juice extracted, boiled to purify it, and bottled for exportation. The lemon peel is transferred in baskets to another -set of men, who with large sponges in one hand obtain the essential oil of the rind by pressing the pieces hard upon it with the other. The sponges are now and then squeezed into bowls and the liquid is essence of lemon. After looking through this establishment our new acquaintance offered to conduct us to the place where the city had suffered most from the bombard- ment of the Neapolitans. I ought to have mentioned that the ruinous state of Messina and its forts and houses was occasioned by a bombardment which lasted almost a year. The Neapolitans had possession of the forts on the harbor, and had their ships at anchor in it. The people of Messina aud other Sicilians held the town and the fortress above. Thus, for twelve months, they cai-ried BOMBARDMENT OF MESSINA. 13 on this fratricidal war ; the Sicilians contending for a constitution and their civil liberties, the king striving to maintain his hateful despotism by a cruel warfare against his own subjects. "When we reached the interior of the town, and the spot where the hottest of the fight had raged, the scene was appalling indeed ; whole streets were in ruins, and one very large and magnificent church which we passed had been destroyed, a portion of the walls only remaining. We went into the cathedral, and though this edifice had shared a better fate it had not escaped altogether; for a portion of the exterior had been injured, and we could plainly see where the cannon-balls had pierced the door in a number of places ; but the beautiful altar, formed of the richest marbles, had passed through the fiery ordeal uninjured. Here, for the first time, I saw amongst the stones and marbles used for decorating the interior of churches, what we call, in common language, gold stone ; a rich brown stone full of brilliant specks like gold. I had before seen it used for breastpins, in small quantities^ only, but in this superb altar it glistened in profusion. ETNA. Having thus obtained a general idea of the town under the guidance of our new acquaintance, we embarked again and made our way out of the port, admiring once more the beautiful position of the city and the excellence of its harbor. Etna now called for our notice ; and we were all anxious to see this grand object whose name had been familiar to us from childhood. "We soon discovered its snow-crowned crest, and the evidence of its volcanic character in the vaporous smoke that was issuing from its summit. We were in sight of it and coasted along its base all the rest of the day ; its general form has been made so familiar to the eye of every reader by frequent engravings that it is needless to describe it ; it is much loftier and covers a far larger space than Vesuvius, but it did not impress us so much with its majesty. However, Vesuvius was the first volcano that we had seen, and was in a state of far greater activity. Etna seemed to lie in majestic repose, giving evidence of hfe 14 SICILIAJSr SUNSET. by a gentle breathing only, while Vesuvius seemed ready to burst forth in some agonizing exertion, and to be restraining his fearful energies under some awful external influence. Thus have we seen, within twenty-four hours, three of the most famous volcanoes, and those best known to history. As the sun was about to set we were still in sight of Etna, and the immense mass rising up against the dark blue sky formed the principal feature in a sunset scene, which in richness of color exceeded any thing I have ever witnessed. As we looked from the deck of our vessel, the sun, ready to disappear behind the distant land, looked out from a canopy of gold and purple clouds. In this respect the light was not more beautiful than I have often seen in America ; but stretching along from this canopy, on the left, the sky wore the most exqui- site tint of orange, and green, and blue fading one into the other, and shedding upon the land a rich warm color that no language can describe. On the right was Etna, his summit of snow tinged with the rays of the setting sun, and deepening from the top to his base in varying colors of orange and purple till it met the water in a dark mass of vapor. There was too throughout the atmosphere a haziness which, while it obscured nothing, gave a softness to every outline of the land, and seenied to farnish a medium by which all was blended into one consistent mass of varied yet harmonized coloring. This glorious scene faded away into night, and we began to think and speak of our expected arrival at Malta the next morning by daylight. MALTA. 26<7i. — "When I went upon deck Malta was in sight, and, rapidly approach- ing it, we entered the noble harbor at eight o'clock. If we were struck with the convenience and the safety of the harbor of Messina, it is not too strong an expression to say that we were in perfect admiration with this of Malta. The island itself is a mass of rock in the midst of the sea, with two smaller com- panions at no great distance. These however are of little importance, though Goza derives an interest from the supposition that it may be the fabled island FORTIFICATIONS. — HEALTH-OFFICER. • 15 of Calypso. Malta is tlie key to the Mediterranean. The harbor is com- pletely land-locked, and the water at the entrance and within is deep enough for ships of any burden. Its fortifications are impregnable, or at least they seemed so to us ; they crown every point of rock and surround the city in line after line, so that an attack upon Valetta, either by sea or by land, supposing an army could be landed upon some other point of the island, would be utterly hopeless. As soon as we anchored we saw the first evidence of our approach to a land in the vicinity of the dreaded plague. The quarantine laws are extremely rigid here ; the health-ofiicer approached in a boat, and when the necessary ship-papers were handed to him, he received them with a pair of brass tongs, fumigated them over a chafing-dish, and then with another pair, holding one in each hand, he opened and read the papers. Finding the proper evidence of our having left a perfectly healthy port, he dispensed with his tongs, took the papers in his hands, and gave us permission to commvinicate with the shore. Immediately a fleet of gaily painted boats with high prows, which had hitherto kept at a distance, crowded around our gangway, filled with boatmen, agents for the different hotels, valets-.de-place, all calling out to us and striving together to attract our notice. We made our selection and got into a boat with a civil and active valet-de-place, who continued with us during our short stay at Malta. We had no sooner landed than we found we had taken our first step in Eastern travel. The Arabic language, with its numerous gutturals, so different from the soft dialect we had just left behind us in Italy, was spoken all around us ; and in most of the people there was quite a different cast of countenance, and one that clearly pointed to an eastern origin. As we walked through the streets to our hotel, the whole aspect of things appeared to be changed ; instead of the disgusting filth and noxious smells to which we had almost become accustomed in the streets and the houses of Italy, we found a remarkable and refreshing cleanliness. English influence had produced this desirable result ; aided indeed in a good measure by the character of the streets, Avhich are singularly precipitous. You mount by steps from the water side, and through- out the city you find many of the streets terminated by long flights of stone 16 VALETTA. — MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. stairs. The rocky character of the point on which Valetta is situated, rendered this necessary ; the whole town is built of stone of a beautiful yellow or cream color. Brick, I believe, is not at all used ; at least I do not recollect having seen one on the island ; but the stone is quarried here in great abundance ; when first taken from its bed it is so soft as to be easily cut into shape by an edge tool, and it becomes hard by exposure to the air. The architecture of the houses is simple and in good taste ; one peculiarity is that every house seems to have a covered projecting stone balcony, which can be inclosed with glass or blinds. These balconies contain from six to ten or twelve persons, and are a favorite resort of the inhabitants, for they can sit here and enjoy the sun in winter and the cool breeze in summer, and at both seasons gaze upon the throng passing by. The streets were well filled with a lively mingled crowd ; English soldiers and officers in their red uniforms, sober citizens, many of them English, in their ordinary dress, occasionally Greeks and Turks ; and most remarkable of all, the women of the island with their peculiar mantle over the head and held under the chin. This mantle consists of black silk, oblong in shape, and gathered into folds on one side of the oblong ; it is thrown over the head with the gathered part on one side of the face, and is not very comely or picturesque. It seemed something like a silk apron without strings, thrown over the head to answer a momentary purpose for want of another covering. At the hotel we got a good plain English breakfast of excellent tea, bread, butter, and eggs, which we enjoyed exceedingly after the fare to which we had been restricted on board the steamboat. Finding that the vessel which was to take us to Alexandria had not yet arrived, we determined to see all that we could of this interesting little island. It is the chief stopping-place on the great Mediterra- nean highway between Europe and the East, and Avould seem, since the intro- duction of steam navigation, to be of far greater importance to England than even Gibraltar. National pride would probably never submit to a peaceful relinquishment of the invincible rock to the kingdom of Spain, to which it so naturally belongs ; but if the British crown were constrained to part with either, it would be the latter rather than ]\Ialta. Indeed nothing can be more favorable as a naval d^pot and stopping-place than Malta with its spacious and ST. PAUL'S BAY. 17 safe harbors. The French, once possessed this island ; Napoleon, in his early career, when on his expedition to the East, having wrested it in 1798 from the feeble grasp of the Knights of Malta. But in 1800, after a severe blockade and a persevering and courageous defence on the part of the French garrison, who were reduced to absolute starvation, it was captured by the English, who have since held a possession which they will never give up while their flag can float upon the Mediterranean. From the American consul, Mr. Winthrop, we received immediate and constant attention, and all the information and assistance we needed, as well as a hospitable reception into his family circle. ' A week or more could have been passed here agreeably and profitably, as there are many objects of interest to be seen connected with the history of the once famous but now almost forgotten order of Christian warriors, whose home and seat of power was for so many years established in this island. We were anxious, however, to push on to our great destination. Having made all needful preparations for our expedition, our curiosity drew us to employ our remaining time in visiting points remark- able for traditions connected with the great Apostle of the Gentiles. One of the most interesting features in the history and the natural scenery of Malta is St. Paul's Bay. The constant tradition in Malta points to the bay called by his name, as the place where the Apostle was shipwrecked. It is three miles long and two wide at the entrance ; the beach is sandy, and differs from the coast around the harbor, which is rough and rocky. A small island, called Selmone, on the north-west, is separated from Malta by a narrow strait. A tower and fortifications raised by the Knights of Malta defend the bay ; a small chapel, built on the supposed spot where the barbarians kindled a fire, contains old drawings illustrating the landing of St. Paul. A small island in the Adriatic sea named Meleda was once, as well as this island, called Melita ; and some have thought the former was the scene of the shipwreck ; many arguments are adduced on both sides. In the 27th verse of Acts xxvii, it is said, " We were driven up and down in Adria." But this word anciently included the whole sea between Greece, Italy, and Africa, and therefore does not mean the Adriatic alone. The little island of Meleda is 18 MALTA. — MELITA. nearer to the moutli of tlie Adriatic than any other in that sea, and might receive the wreck of a vessel driven from Crete, by a S. E. wind ; but this would be taking it for granted that the word Eurodydon (v. 14), which occurs no- where else, either in the New Testament or the classics, means a S. E. wind. But it is much more probable that it means a hurricane^ without reference to the 'point from which it blows. Another objection against Malta, as the scene of the shipwreck, is derived from the civihzation of the island, spoken of by Cicero, and which seems to disagree with the expression " the barbarous people," (xxviii : 2). But it is well known that the Greeks and Romans applied the epithet barbarian to all strangers and foreigners. Again, Phny says there are no serpents in Malta ; but snakes have been found there sis feet in length ; and it is to be noticed that the " barbarous people " seemed surprised that the reptile fastened itself upon the hand of Paul. Another objection is derived from the disease of Publius ; but one case of such an affliction might occur even in a dry, rocky, and healthy island like Malta. On the whole, when we remember the course which the Apostle and his company took from Malta to Syracuse, and thence to Rhegium, it will be diffi- cult to reconcile it with any other situation than that of this island ; and when the tradition of this event is remembered by the natives from time immemorial, there can be little reason to doubt that the common opinion is correct, which assigns this as the island where the Apostle was shipwrecked. MALTA TO ALEXANDEIA. Steamboat Lycurge, on the Mediterranean, within a day's sail of Alesandi'ia, January Slsi. — "We left the harbor of Malta on Saturday afternoon, the 27th. Our accommodations are good, and our fellow passengers very agreeable. We have Mr. and Mrs. Crosby of New-York, with her mother, several gentlemen and ladies from England, an elderly Polish count, travelling with his adopted daughter, a French consul going to Cairo, and several others. A portion of these travellers, the Crosbys, the count, and some of the English wish to go up FELLOW-PASSENGEBS. — A PORTLY MONK. 19 the Nile, and if a steamboat can be procured at Cairo we shall probably form one party. But all this is very uncertain, as we learn there is great difficulty in procuring a steamboat, and without this we shall hardly attempt the enterprise by the ordinary slow method. The boat we are in is inferior in speed, or we should have reached Alexandria ere this. The time passed as usual on board the boat ; at dinner, on the iirst day, we became acquainted with our fellow-passengers and with the officers of the vessel. Our social relations are pleasant, as we converse, give and receive information, lend books and the other usual et ceteras ; the dinner hour is half-past five, and the style French. Of the latter, the English are of course heartily tired ; and as to the French breakfasts, with their multitudes of dishes and wine, we can hardly endure them, but submit with the best grace in our power. We shall be right glad to get simple English fare again, and especially a good breakfast of tea, coffee, bread and butter, and eggs. I have before spoken of two intelligent and agreeable monks. I must here introduce one of a different character, and who certainly would not belie Chaucer's description ; for " He was not pale as a forpined gost ; His bed was balled, and shone as any glas ; And eke his face, as it hadde ben anoint ; He was a lord ftil fat, and in good point : His eyen stepe, and roUing in his bed." After dinner he would appear on deck, rosy and portly, and smoothing himself down complacently, exclaim, " Buono, buono !" He was bound for Mount Lebanon ; for what purpose I cannot tell, but certainly not to preach or teach, for of that there was no shadow in him ; and certainly not to learn, for he was plainly past age and inclination. His sole business seemed to be to dispense a couple of superstitious papers, and to receive small gratuities from those who chose to bestow such alms ! How much the edification of the faithful would be advanced by his labors, will appear from a translation of two of the printed 20 SUPERSTITIOUS LEGEND. papers wMcli lie bestowed upon me ; tliey are declared to be issued with the "license of the superiors," and the fat, stupid monk seems to have had no suspicion in regard to their authenticity. That such wares can find a market, speaks suEElciently as to the state of some classes in the south of Italy. Here is a literal translation of these precious documents : — ■ " " A copy of the Narrative which was found in the Holy Sepulchre of our Lord Jesus Christ. — Saint Elizabeth, Queen of Hungary, and St. Bridget having prayed diligently to our Lord, desiring to know the extreme pains of his most Holy Passion, in his divine goodness, he spake thus to them : ' Know, dearest sisters, that the soldiers who took me were 161, besides 33 other oflB.cers; those that boimd me were 12, and they gave me 33 blows on the head, and while I was in prison they gave me 100 more, and two severe thrusts. I fell to .the earth 7 times. They followed me to the house of Annas with 190 stripes. They gave me 18 blows upon the shoulders to make me rise from the earth. I was drawn upon the ground by a cord, and by the hair of my head 70 times. There escaped from my breast 161 sighs ; and I was dragged by the beard 30 times. They gave me at the pillar where I was scourged 6666 blows, and spat in my face 121 times. They gave me a deadly thrust and threw me to the earth with the cross upon my shoulders, and with the cross itself gave me 3 frightful blows. The drops of blood which fell from my body were 30660.' " This admirable and instructive document then goes on to promise " to all persons who, during 12 years, shall say every day seven Paters and Aves, until they shall have accomplished the number of the drops of blood shed," (the arithmetic is admirably correct, and one cannot help thinking of the miraculoirs coincidence ; e. g. 365 Paters, daily, ...... 7 Annual number, ..... 2555 Years, ....... 12 Total exact number of drops of blood, and Paters performed, 30,660 I should observe, however, that the 29th of February seems improvided for.) FIRST SIGHT OF EGYPT. 21 — " and who live in the holy fear of God, there shall be granted the following graces : viz., plenary indulgence and the remission of their sins, and although they shall die before the devotion is done, yet it shall be the same as if they had finished. Living like Christians and saying daily the aforesaid seven Paters and Aves, they shall escape from the devil, and shall die an easy death. Child- birth shall be without danger ; and in whatever hour these instructions are followed, there shall be no evil dreams nor other frightful things. Finally, the faithful who thus pray shall be aided in the hour of death by the intercession of the most holy Virgin Mother of God." The other paper refers to seventeen sacred and remarkable places in Jerusalem, which have already been spoken of in the " Pathways and Abiding Places of our Lord." But the translation of one such document may be sufiicient both for the faithful and the un- faithful. On Sunday morning I rose very early, and found the weather pleasant and sufficiently warm for comfort. As there were several English persons and six Americans on board, I proposed to celebrate the morning service, if the captain would allow us the use of the cabin ; this was readily granted, and the morning prayer was attended by all who understood English. February \st. — -A high wind, not positively a gale, came up about ten last night, and the rolling and pitching of the vessel surpassed any thing I had felt in crossing the Atlantic. I was roused from my half-slumber by the rushing of a sea into the cabin, which wet one-half of it, leaving me, however, still a dry floor. I was up before the sun, which rose pale as the moon, shining but dimly through a bank of vapor upon the horizon. A very heavy sea was still running ; but now the sky is clear and the sun shines brightly. We hoped to reach Alexandria ere this, but have now lost something by the storm. How- ever, after a long and not very comfortable passage, we came in sight of the shores of Egypt, still but dimly visible through the haze which hung over the land. The water began to change its color as we came upon soundings, and from the dark deep blue of the Mediterranean, it assumed a beautiful light blue tint, as if it were a mass of pure molten sky. As there is no mountain, nor even a high hill within a long distance, the coast is not seen until you are 22 HAEBOE OF ALEXANDEIA. — TUEKISH FLEET. almost upon it. As the steamboat drew near we discovered the hghthouse, which appeared like an obelisk ; but this was an illusion of fancy, for on a still nearer view we found it to be only a tall round tower. Next, the masts of the shipping in the harbor stood out like a naked forest ; and at last we saw the crowd of windmills for which the point of the harbor as you approach on the right is famous. As the wind blew freshly, the arms of the mills were in violent commotion. Some fifty or more mills, standing so near together that their sails appeared ready to clash, with their arms dashing around at the height of their speed, might well produce upon an imagination less excited than that of Don Quixote, the impression of a fierce army of contending giants. Nearer the harbor there was another large army of windmills, but these were at rest, as if tired, while their associates had just started with vigor upon their spell of work. As we approached this shore we could plainly see several Arab villages, which seemed to us like square piles of unburnt brick, arranged in parallel lines. The absence of trees, or even of a single blade of grass, gave them a very comfortless aspect ; and, unsheltered as they are, they must be oppressively hot in summer ; however, they are finely situated to enjoy the sea breeze. The opposite point of the harbor is crowned with the lighthouse and the exten- sive buildings of Mohammed All's harem. The Turkish ships of war, lying at anchor, now loomed up at a distance, making a show which a nearer approach to them disappointed. Only one seventy -four appeared to be in tolerable order; and exhibited her full broadside ; the others were in a dismantled state and showed but few guns ; in all the chains, however, a number of Turks were sitting and lying in the sun, wrapped in grey cloaks or blankets and smoking their pipes. ■ This, with our ideas of the discipline of a ship of war was strange enough ; but the whole day, from its dawn to its close, was to us one of strange sights, often described, indeed, but still impressing us with the effect of novelty. The Turkish flag was flying from the ships, consisting of a red ground with a crescent and a star in the centre. Miss Martineau has called it the handsomest flag in the world, and yet the glorious Christian banner of her own country, with its cross of varied color, was probably floating near, as it now is. I could not but wonder at her taste, leaving out of view the influence which an cxcus- NATIONAL BANNEES. — ARAB SERVILITY. 23 able religious or patriotic prejudice might have upon it. For my own part, while the stars and stripes are to me a sight which in a foreign land always fills my heart with delight and patriotic pride, I think the English flag, as a national banner, lifting up the Cross on high, is the most beautiful in the world. When we add to this the power of association which, to a Christian mind, makes the crescent the lively emblem of a false faith, while the once despised and accui'sed tree has now become illustrious as the banner of immortal life, it seems impossible that a believer should for a moment exalt the waning glory of the crescent above the rising splendor of the Cross. Since it was borne by the despised Galilean, it has ever been the true honor of his followers to be Crusaders or bearers of the Cross. When we came to anchor in the harbor we were immediately surrounded by boats rowed by men of all colors save white, and dressed some in the Greek and some in the Turkish costume ; calling out to us in guttural Arabic and broken English and Italian to take passage with them. We selected one of them and put our carpet-bags, which constituted all our luggage, into it and started for the shore. But here a sample of the ways and manners of the people of the land presented itself before we reached the shore, for the men stopped rowing, and making an exorbitant charge, demanded their pay. We had been forewarned on this point, and turning round upon them we ordered them in the most peremptory manner to " give way" or bend to their oars instantly ; nor was this all, for I lifted up my umbrella, the only weapon we had between us, as if I would enforce the order with a blow. Instead of rebelhng at this and perhaps turning back and making us get out of the boat, or tossing us over- board as our own Whitehall bargemen would have been inclined to do, they sunk down at once and most submissively, on their seats, and rowed with unflinching energy till they landed us upon the shore, and there gratefully accepted one-third of the sum which they had attempted to extort from us by threats a few moments before. They had avoided making a direct bargain with us before starting, intending if possible to extort something from our fears. No doubt they sometimes succeed with inexperienced travellers, but the mo- ment they discovered we were resolute, they gave up the vain attempt ; parley- 24 SCENES AT LANDING. ing, however, is laseless, an exliibition of force alone is effective ; for these people have grown up in the habits of the crouching slaves of despotism, and if you speak to them kindly and treat them with gentleness, they interpret it as a proof of your weakness and grow insolent ; while from the force of habit they crouch and yield respectfully to the strong argument of threats enforced by blows. Another new scene and a fresh annoyance met us as we landed ; multitudes of men and women with camels and baskets, and innumerable bare- legged Arab boys leading donkeys, beset us on all sides and vociferated in a jargon of tongues, a perfect Babel of languages, that we should employ them or hire their animals. By repeating the same exercise of energy and firmness which we had just displayed in the boat, we succeeded in keeping our luggage together, and at length transferred it to the care of the nearest and most decent- looking person, who happened to be a young woman with a basket nearly as large as those used by the bakers in New-York. Our carpet-bags and cloaks, with those of a fellow-passenger, were all put into it, when the woman with a little help put the whole mass upon her head and walked off with it nearly a mile, without stopping, and tripping along as straight and as lightly as if she had nothing to carry. We rejected all the bare-legged boys and their donkeys and walked on through the Turkish quarter of the town. This consists of narrow, unpaved streets, with flat-roofed stone houses, the doors and windows, where there were any, being all open, and in and around every door were crowded apparently the whole population ; men at their trades or smoking pipes, and women with their faces, all save the eyes and sometimes with only one eye, peep- ing out from the folds of the yaslimdh. However, the glimpses which we caught did not reveal to us any surpassing beauty. There are also multitudes of squalid children, but these seemed the most natural of all ; for they were play- ing and gamboling like all children in all places. We encountered all the way camels with their outstretched necks carrying all sorts of burdens ; sometimes they were single and sometimes they strode by in lines of three or foiu-, the head of the second being haltered to the tail of the foremost, and thus they move along and seem to do the greater^ part of the work of this description. The people ride from place to place upon donkeys, as we saw but few carts and n C( C( MODERN Alexandria' PILLAR OF 0I0CLETI» EUNOSTIIS O' L. D PORT. I- A (\! D OF PHAR.05. — NEW POR.T. B fLU C HION ^,t V-<.) R /E O ''W^MJ!!!^-. .W^ i - . M £0 e ' 1 r ST I Tan Ip2c tfr* StTitpu . tsith Jtiidoiaiti tbUattn in Pai,