Class JL-H^lCTS 
 Rnok ,\A (a 
 
 Copyright N° 
 
 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 
 
New Standard 
 Trousers and Breeches 
 
 Syste 
 
 ms 
 
 Self=Varying in Distribution of 
 flaterial and in Balance 
 
 An Encyclopedia of Styles 
 in Trousers and Breeches 
 for all Sizes and Forms 
 
 PUBLISHERS 
 
 The JNO. J. MITCHELL CO 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
\9 
 
 <o 
 
 A>$ 
 
 LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
 I wo Copies Kece»»d» 
 
 JUL 3 W08 
 
 <,wyiiis»> c..ir» ^ 
 
 -t. < o &J0- 
 
 COPY 8. 
 
 Copyright, 1908. 
 
 the JNO. J. MITCHELL CO. 
 
 • NEW YORK 
 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYS TEMS 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Title 
 Preface 
 
 Part I. 
 TROUSERS 
 
 The Measures - 
 
 The Foundation 
 
 To Complete the Forepart 
 
 The Backpart 
 
 Small-Waisted Trousers 
 
 Extremely Small-Waisted Trousers 
 
 Trousers for Corpulent Men 
 
 Trousers for Small Sizes 
 
 Medium Peg-Tops 
 
 Extreme Peg-Tops 
 
 Spring-Bottom Trousers 
 
 Tight Trousers 
 
 Trousers for Bow-Legs 
 
 Trousers for Knock-Knees 
 
 Trousers for Full-Fronted Forms 
 
 Trousers for Flat-Fronted Forms - 
 
 Trousers with Side Stripe 
 
 Trousers with On-Growing Waistband and Extra Seat Room 
 
 Broad Falls - 
 
 Riding Trousers 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 18 
 
 20 
 
 24 
 
 28 
 
 32 
 
 36 
 
 40 
 
 44 
 
 48 
 
 52 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 64 
 
 66 
 
 68 
 
 Part II. 
 BREECHES 
 
 The Measures 
 
 Riding Breeches with Continuations 
 
 Riding Breeches with Continuations for Corpulent Man 
 
 Extremely Pear-Shaped Riding Breeches with Bottom Tab and Continuations 
 
 Riding Breeches with Diagonal Knee-V 
 
 Coachman's Dress Breeches 
 
 Pear-Shaped Golfing Breeches 
 
 Golfing or Cycling Knickerbockers 
 
 74 
 76 
 82 
 86 
 90 
 94 
 98 
 102 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 THE trousers and breeches systems, explained in this book, not only have the merit of 
 being unusually simple and therefore easily learned and worked, but they will be 
 found, on intelligent trial, to be uniformly excellent, and rightly self-varying, both 
 in size distribution and balance. That they may prove as valuable to the trade as the New 
 Standard Coat and Vest Systems recently published, of which they complete the series, is the 
 wish and belief of the publishers. 
 
 Respectfully, 
 
 The Jno. J. Mitchell Co. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 PART I. 
 
 TROUSERS 
 
8 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS SYSTEH 
 
 THE HEASURES 
 
 THE cutter should not only make sure that every measure he takes is practically correct 
 before taking another, but should take the measures methodically — in the same order. 
 For all trousers the following measures are necessary, and it will be found con- 
 venient to take them in the order given : 
 The outside length. 
 The inside length. 
 The bottom width. 
 The knee width. 
 The seat circumference. 
 The waist circumference. 
 
 TO TAKE THP MEASURES. 
 
 The Outside Length. — Place the end of the inch-tape at the height to which it is de- 
 sired the waist seam should reach, and measure to the top of the heel of the shoe. 
 
 The Inside Length. — Hold the end of the inch-tape between the first and second 
 fingers of the left hand, with the knuckles up, and reaching round the client press the end 
 close to the fork; then with the right hand carry the tape carefully to the knee, and then to the 
 Lop of the heel of the shoe. 
 
 The Bottom Width is a matter of style, taste and foot size, and is, therefore, largely 
 a matter of judgment. For the same sized foot it may vary from, say, 16 inches for peg-tops, 
 to 20 inches for spring bottoms. A good rule for finding the bottom width is to add a style 
 increase to one-half the foot size. If, for example, the fashionable bottom width for a No. 6 
 foot is 17 inches, the style increase is 14 inches, as 14 added to 3 (one-half the foot size), 
 makes 17. For a No. 8 foot, the bottom width would, therefore, be 14 added to one-half the 
 foot size, 4, making 18 altogether. If the fashionable bottom width were 18 inches for a No. 6 
 foot, the style increase would be 15 inches, as 3 (one-half the foot size) added to 15 makes 18. 
 For a No. 8 foot, the bottom width would then be 19 inches, 4 (one-half the foot size) plus 15. 
 
 The Knee Width is also a matter of fashion, taste and judgment, except for skin- 
 tight trousers. A good rule for finding the knee width is to add a style increase to one- 
 fourth seat. If, for example, the fashionable knee width is 18 inches for a 36 seat, the style 
 increase is 9 inches, as 9 added to 9 (one-fourth seat) makes 18. For a 44-inch seat, the knee 
 width would, therefore, be 9 added to one-fourth the seat size, 11, making 20 altogether. 
 
 The Seat Circumference should be taken around the largest part of the seat, the inch- 
 tape being drawn just taut. 
 
 The Waist Circumference should be taken just taut as nearly as possible where the 
 waist seam will run. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 9 
 
 EXTRA MEASURES. 
 
 The Belly Measure is necessary for corpulent men. This measure should be taken taut 
 about 4 inches lower than the waist measure. 
 
 The Thigh and Calf Measures are necessary for tight trousers. The thigh measure 
 should be taken just taut about 3 inches below the fork. The calf measure should be taken 
 just taut around the largest part of the calf, to which point the inside length should be taken 
 for legs that are very much either disproportionately long or short. 
 
10 
 
 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 THE FOUNDATION 
 
 T 
 
 DIAGRAM 1. 
 
 HE measures used for this draft are as follows: 
 
 42 outside length, 
 32 inside length, 
 
 17 bottom, 
 
 18 knee, 
 
 36 seat, 
 32 waist. 
 
 Draw line A B, and square forward from A. 
 
 A to B is the outside length. 
 
 B to C is the inside length. 
 
 D is 2 inches less than half-way from C to B. 
 
 C to E is ^ seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D and B. 
 
 C to F is £ seat. 
 
 F back to G is 1 inch always. 
 
 G to H is ^ seat. 
 
 H to I is | inch (for dress) for sizes from 36 to 42 seat, inclusive, and F to J is the same. 
 
 B to K is J seat. 
 
 K to L is one-fourth bottom. 
 
 L to M is one-third bottom. 
 
 M to N is 1£ inch always. 
 
 A to O is J seat. 
 
 O back to P is £ waist. 
 
 P to Q is % inch always. 
 
 Q to R is J waist. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, establishing S. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to J. 
 
 Draw a straight line from H to L, establishing T. 
 
 T to U is one-half knee. 
 
 V is half-way between C and H. 
 
 TO COMPLETE THE FOREPART. 
 
 Diagram 2. 
 
 Draw the crease line from K toward V. 
 Shape the undress side from R through S to IT. 
 
 Shape the dress side as represented, from R to a trifle below I, and from I to a little more 
 than half-way to T. 
 
 Shape the outside seam from O through E and U to N. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented, from N to L. hollowing ^ inch at the crease line. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 11 
 
 K N 
 
 Diagram 2. 
 
 K /W N 
 
 Diagram 1. 
 
12 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 THE BACK PART 
 
 DIAGRAM 3. 
 
 Sweep back from Q and C, pivoting at N. 
 
 Extend the knee and bottom cross lines as represented. 
 
 W is half way between O and R. 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through W. 
 
 W to X is % seat. 
 
 X to Y is £ seat. 
 
 X to Z is ^ waist. 
 
 Y to 1 is 1 J inch for making. 
 
 S to 2 is V12 seat. 
 
 Draw a straight line from 2 through E. 
 
 2 to 3 is 1 h inch. 
 
 3 to 4 is J seat. 
 
 J to 5 is ^ inch more than J seat. 
 
 Square down from 5. 
 
 5 to 6 is § inch. 
 
 T to 7 is i inch. 
 
 U to 8 is -i inch. 
 
 N to 9 is |- inch more than one-half bottom, and L to 10 is the same. 
 
 Draw a straight line for the run of the V from V to a point half-way between Y and Z. 
 
 Shape the V through Y and Z, and the top from 1 to X as represented. 
 
 Shape the seat seam from X through W, S and I to 6, hollowing slightly from X to W, 
 and rounding out between W and S as represented. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented, from 6 through 7 to 9. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented, from 1 through 4 and 8 to 10. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented, from 10 to 9, rounding a trifle on each side, and hollow- 
 ing to the straight cross line at the heel. 
 
 In making, the outside seam should be stretched betzveen the scat and knee notches to equal 
 the corresponding side seam length of the forepart, and the inside seam should be stretched 
 about \ inch from mid-thigh to 6. 
 
 The Wai strand. 
 
 Draw a straight line. 
 
 Notch to notch is one-half full waist. 
 
 The widths are 2 inches at the front end, and lh inch at the back end. 
 
 The front end extends 2 inches beyond the notch, and the back end 1 inch. 
 
 Except for small-waisted and for corpulent forms, the seam edge is cut straight. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 13 
 
 Diagram 3. 
 
14 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 SriALL=WAISTED TROUSERS 
 
 43 outside length, 
 32-4 inside length, 
 
 DIAGRAMS 4, 5 AND 6. 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 \7h bottom, 
 19| knee, 
 
 The Forepart. 
 
 40 seat, 
 34 waist. 
 
 Diagram 4. — Draw line A B and square forward from A. 
 A to B is the outside length. 
 B to C is the inside length. 
 D is 2 inches less than half-way from C to B. 
 C to E is £ seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D and B 
 C to F is i seat. 
 F back to G is 1 inch always. 
 G to H is J seat. 
 
 H to I is f inch (for dress) for sizes from 36 to 42 seat, inclusive, and F to J is the same. 
 B to K is J seat. 
 K to L is one-fourth bottom. 
 L to M is one-third bottom. 
 M to N is li inch always. 
 A to O is ^ seat. 
 O back to P is \ waist. 
 P to is f inch always. 
 O to R is | waist. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, establishing S. 
 Draw a straight line from R to J. 
 Draw a straight line from H to L, establishing T. 
 T to U is one-half knee. 
 V is half-way between C and H. 
 Draw the crease line from K toward V. 
 Shape the undress side from R through S to H. 
 
 Shape the dress side as represented, from R to a trifle below I, and from I to a little more 
 than half-way to T. 
 
 Shape the outside seam from through E and U to N. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented, from N to L, hollowing \ inch at the crease line. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 15 
 
 b N 
 
 Diagram 5. Diagram 6. 
 
 K |W N 
 
 Diagram 4. 
 
16 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 The Backpart. 
 
 Diagram 5. — Sweep back from Q and C, pivoting at N. 
 
 Extend the knee and bottom cross lines as represented. 
 
 W is half-way between O and R. 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through W. 
 
 W to X is £ seat. 
 
 X to Y is | seat. 
 
 X to Z is J waist. 
 
 Y to 1 is 1 J inch for making. 
 
 S to 2 is 7i2 seat. 
 
 Draw a straight line from 2 through E. 
 
 2 to 3 is li inch. 
 
 3 to 4 is i seat. 
 
 J to 5 is £ inch more than £ seat. 
 
 Square down from 5. 
 
 5 to 6 is § inch. 
 
 T to 7 is \ inch. 
 
 U to 8 is h inch. 
 
 N to 9 is h inch more than one-half bottom, and L to 10 is the same. 
 
 Draw a straight line for the run of the V from V to a point half-way between Y and Z. 
 
 Shape the V through Y and Z, and the top from 1 to X as represented. 
 
 Shape the seat seam from X through W, S and I to 6, hollowing slightly from X to W, 
 and rounding out between W and S as represented. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented, from 6 through 7 to 9. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented, from 1 through 4 and 8 to 10. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented, from 10 to 9, rounding a trifle on each side, and hol- 
 lowing to the straight cross line at the heel. 
 
 In making, the outside seam should be stretched between the seat and knee notches to 
 equal the corresponding side seam length of the forepart, and the inside scam should be 
 stretched about } inch from mid-thigh to 6. 
 
 The Waistband. 
 
 Diagram 6. — Draw a straight line as from 1 to 2. 
 
 From 1 to 2 (notch to notch) is one-half full waist. 
 
 3 is half-way between 1 and 2. 
 
 3 to 4 is Vie inch for each inch the waist is disproportionately small, proportion being 4 
 inches less than the seat. As the seat for this draft is 40 inches, 36 inches would be propor- 
 tionate for the waist, but as the waist is only 34 inches it is 2 inches smaller than propor- 
 tionate; 3 to 4 is, therefore, Vie or J inch. 
 
 Curve the seam edge as represented through 1, 4 and 2. 
 
 1 to 6 is 2 inches. 2 *n 5 is 1 inch. 6 to 7 is 2 inches. 
 5 to 8 is 1 1 inch. Finish as represented. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BR EECHES SY STE MS 
 
 17 
 
 T 
 
 HE PROPORTIONATE WAIST SIZE IS 4 INCHES LESS 
 THAN THE SEAT SIZE. 
 
18 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 EXTREMELY 5MALL=WAISTED TROUSERS 
 
 DIAGRAM 7. 
 
 WHEN the waist is very small, proportionately, it is a good plan to take two V's from 
 the backpart instead of one. as illustrated by this diagram, for which the seat 
 measure is 40 inches, the waist 32, 8 inches smaller. This done as follows : 
 X to Y is \ seat. 
 X to Z is J waist. 
 Y to 1 is 1 \ inch for making, the same as though there were to be but one V. 
 
 2 is half-way between Y and Z. 
 
 3 is half-way betweeen Y and X. 
 
 Draw a straight line from V to a point half-way between Y and 2, and shape the front 
 V as illustrated. 
 
 3 to 4 equals Y to 2. 
 
 Draw a straight line from V to a point half-way between 3 and 4, and shape the back V as 
 represented. 
 
 X to 5 is i inch to allow for the two seams of the back V. 
 
 Shape the closing seam as represented. 
 
 The Waistband — Draw a straight line as from 1 to 2. 
 
 1 to 2 is one-half the full waist. 
 3 is half-way between 1 and 2. 
 
 3 to 4 is V™ inch for each inch the waist is disproportionately small. V™ or $ inch for this 
 draft. 
 
 Curve the seam edge as represented through 1, 4 and 2. 
 
 2 to 5 is 1 inch. 
 
 1 to 6 is 2 inches. 
 6 to 7 is 2 inches. 
 5 to 8 is \i inch. 
 Finish as represented. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 19 
 
 Diagram 7. 
 
20 
 
 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 TROUSERS FOR CORPULENT MEN 
 
 DIAGRAMS 8, 9 AND 10. 
 
 42 outside length, 
 30 inside length. 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 19 bottom, 
 
 22 knee, 
 
 The Forepart. 
 
 48 seat, 
 53 belly, 
 52 waist. 
 
 Diagram 8. — Draw line A B, and square forward from A. 
 
 A to B is the outside length. B to C is the inside length. D is 2 inches less than half-way 
 from C to B. C to E is ^ seat. 20 is half-way between A and E. Square across from 20, E, 
 C, D and B. 
 
 C to F is J seat. F back to G is 1 inch always. G to H is ^ seat. H to I is 1 inch 
 (for dress) for all sizes larger than 42 seat, and F to J is the same. 
 
 B to K is J seat. K to L is one-fourth bottom. L to M is one-third bottom. M to N is 
 1^ inch always. 
 
 A to O is J seat. O back to P is \ waist. P to Q is \ inch always. Q to R is J waist. 
 
 20 to 21 equals A to Q. 
 
 21 to 22 is \ belly. 
 
 Draw a straight line from 22 to F, establishing S. 
 
 Shape the undress side as represented, through R, 22 and S to H. 
 
 O to 23 is \ proportionate waist (4 inches less than seat), 44 inches for this draft. 
 
 R to 24 equals 23 to R. 
 
 Shape the top as represented from to 24. 
 
 Draw a straight line from J to a point \ inch beyond 22. 
 
 Draw a straight line from H to L, establishing T. 
 
 Shape the dress side as represented from 24 to a trifle below I, and from I to a little more 
 than half-way to T. 
 
 T to U is one-half knee. V is half-way between C and H. 
 
 Shape the outside seam from Q through E and U to N. Shape the bottom as represented 
 from N to L, hollowing \ inch at the crease line. 
 
 The Waistband. 
 
 Diagram 9. — Draw a straight line as from 1 to 2. 1 to 2 is one-half full waist. 3 is half- 
 way between 1 and 2. 4 is half-way between 2 and 3. 5 is half-way between 3 and 4. 4 to 6 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 21 
 
 Diagram 8. 
 
22 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 is Via inch for each inch the waist is disproportionately large, proportion being 4 inches less 
 
 than the seat. As the seat for this draft is 48 inches, 44 inches would be proportionate for the 
 
 waist, but as the waist is 52 inches it is 8 inches larger than proportionate. 4 to 6 is, therefore, 
 
 Vic or J inch. 1 to 7 is the same as 4 to 6. Shape the seam edge as represented, through 
 2, 6, 5 and 7. 
 
 7 to 10 is 2 inches. 10 to 11 is 2 inches. 2 to 8 is 1 inch. 8 to 12 is 1J inch. 
 
 Finish as represented. 
 
 The Backpart. 
 
 Diagram 10. — Sweep back from C and Q, pivoting at N. Extend the knee and bottom 
 lines as represented. 
 
 W is half-way between O and 23. Draw a straight line from S up through W. W to 
 X is £ seat. X to Y is i waist. Y to 1 is 1 inch for making, instead of, as heretofore, 1^ 
 inch, because, there being no V, there are two less seams to provide for. Shape the top as 
 represented, from 1 to X. 
 
 S to 2 is V12 seat. Draw a straight line from 2 through E. 
 
 2 to 3 is 1.J inch. 3 to 4 is \ seat. 
 
 I to 5 is \ inch more than ( ' ; seat. Square down from 5. Shape the seat seam as rep- 
 resented, from X through \Y, S and I to a little more than % inch below 5. 
 
 T to 7 is \ inch, and U to 8 is the same. 
 
 N to 9 is J inch more than one-half bottom, and L to 10 is the same. 
 
 Finish as represented. 
 
 In making, the outside seam should be stretched between the scat and knee notches to 
 equal the corresponding side seam length of the forepart, and the inside scam should be 
 stretched about \ inch from mid-thigh up. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS ?± 
 
 Diagram 10. 
 
24 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 TROUSERS FOR SMALL SIZES 
 
 DIAGRAMS 11 AND 12. 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 37 outside length, I 16 bottom, I 32 seat, 
 
 28 inside length, j 17 knee, | 28 waist. 
 
 The Forepart. 
 
 Diagram 11. — Draw line A B, and square forward from A. 
 A to B is the outside length. 
 B to C is the inside length. 
 D is 2 inches less than half-way from C to B. 
 C to E is J seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D and B. 
 C to F is J seat. 
 F back to G is 1 inch always. 
 G to H is }■ seat. 
 
 H to I is | inch for all sizes smaller than 36 seat, and F to J is the same. 
 B to K is J seat. 
 K to L is one-fourth bottom. 
 L to M is one-third bottom. 
 M to N is 1-J inch always. 
 A to O is J seat. 
 O back to P is £ waist. 
 P to Q is ; | inch always. 
 Q to R is i waist. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, establishing S. 
 Draw a straight line from R to J. 
 Draw a straight line from H to E, establishing T. 
 T to U is one-half knee. 
 V is half-way between C and H. 
 Draw the crease line from K toward V. 
 Shape the undress side from R through S to 1 1. 
 
 Shape the dress side as represented, from R to a trifle below I, and from I to a little 
 more than half-way to T. 
 
 Shape the outside seam from Q through E and U to N. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented, from N to L, hollowing i inch at the crease line. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 25 
 
 Diagram 12. 
 
 Diagram 1 1. 
 
26 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 The Backpart. 
 
 Diagram 12. — Sweep back from Q and C, pivoting at N. 
 
 Extend the knee and bottom cross lines as represented. 
 
 W is half-way between O and R. 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through W. 
 
 W to X is £ seat. 
 
 X to Y is £ seat. 
 
 X to Z is £ waist. 
 
 Y to 1 is 1 ^ inch for making. 
 
 S to 2 is 7i2 seat. 
 
 Draw a straight line from 2 through E. 
 
 2 to 3 is H inch. 
 
 3 to 4 is -J seat. 
 
 J to 5 is J inch more than -J seat. 
 
 Square down from 5. 
 
 T to 7 is J inch. 
 
 U to 8 is i inch. 
 
 N to 9 is J inch more than one-half bottom, and L to 10 is the same. 
 
 Draw a straight line for the run of the Y from V to a point half-way between Y and Z. 
 
 Shape the V through Y and Z, and the top from i to X as represented. 
 
 Shape the seat seam from X through W, S and I to a point § inch below 5, hollowing 
 slightly from X to W, and rounding out between W and S as represented. ■ 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented from 5 through 7 to 9. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from 1 through 4 and 8 to 10. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented, from 10 to 9, rounding a trifle on each side, and hollow- 
 ing to the straight cross line at the heel. 
 
 In making, the outside seam should be stretched bettvecn the seat and knee notches to 
 equal the corresponding side seam length of the forepart, and the inside seam should be 
 stretched about \ inch from mid-thigh up. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 27 
 
 F 
 
 OR EXTRA LARGE MEN, THE ALLOWANCE FOR MAK- 
 ING MAY BE SAFELY DECREASED AT 
 THE SEAT TO 1 INCH. 
 
28 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 HEDIUH PEG=TOPS 
 
 42 outside length, 
 32 inside length, 
 
 DIAGRAMS 13 AND 14. 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 16 bottom, 
 21 knee, 
 
 The Forepart. 
 
 38 seat, 
 36 waist. 
 
 Diagram 13. — Draw line A B, and square forward from A. 
 
 A to B is the outside length. 
 
 B to C is the inside length. 
 
 D is 2 inches less than half-way from C to B. 
 
 C to E is ^ seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D and B. 
 
 C to F is J seat. 
 
 F back to G is 1 inch always. 
 
 G to H is £ seat. 
 
 H to I is | inch (for dress) for sizes from 36 to 42 seat, inclusive, and F to I is the same. 
 
 B to K is J seat. 
 
 K to L is one-fourth bottom. 
 
 L to M is one-third bottom. 
 
 M to N is 1£ inch always. 
 
 A to O is ^ seat. 
 
 O to P is J waist. 
 
 P to Q is § inch always. 
 
 Q to R is J waist. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, establishing S. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to J. 
 
 Shape the undress side as represented, from R through S to H. 
 
 Shape the dress side as represented, through R to a trifle below I. 
 
 Q to 23 is J proportionate waist (4 inches less than seat), 34 inches for this draft. 
 
 Shape the top from as represented, to a point as far above R as R is beyond 23. 
 
 Draw a straight line from H to L, establishing T. 
 
 Shape the dress side as represented, from I to a little more than half-way to T. 
 
 Draw a straight line from C to N, establishing U. 
 
 V is half-way between C and H. Draw a straight line for the crease from K towards V. 
 
 T to U2 is one-half knee. 
 
 E to E2 is onedialf as far as from U to U2. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented, from through E2 and U2 to N. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented, from N to L, hollowing h inch at the crease line. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 29 
 
 ^>E2 
 
 b N 
 
 Diagram 14. 
 
 K 1» N 
 Diagram 13. 
 
30 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 The Backpart. 
 
 Diagram 14. — Sweep back from Q and C, pivoting at N 
 
 Extend the knee and bottom lines as represented. 
 
 W is half-way between O and 23. 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through W. 
 
 W to X is £ seat. 
 
 X to Y is h seat. 
 
 X to Z is \ waist. . . 
 
 Y to 1 is 1J inch for making. 
 
 S to 2 is V12 seat. 
 
 Draw a straight line from 2 through E2. 
 
 2 to 3 is \\ inch. 
 
 3 to B3 is \ seat. 
 
 B3 to 4 equals E to E2 of the forepart. 
 
 J to 5 is \ inch more than \ seat. 
 
 Square down from 5. 
 
 T to 7 is h inch. 
 
 U2 to 8 is 4 inch. 
 
 N to 9 is | inch more than one-half bottom, and L to 10 is the same. 
 
 Draw a straight line for the run of the V from V to a point half-way between Y and Z. 
 
 Shape the V through Y and Z, and the top from 1 to X as represented. 
 
 Shape the seat seam from X through W, S and I to a point § inch below 5, hollowing 
 slightly from X to W, and rounding out between W and S as represented. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented, from 5 through 7 to 9. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented, from 10 to 9, rounding a trifle on each side, and hollow- 
 ing to the straight line at the heel. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from 1 through 4 and 8 to 10. 
 
 In making, the outside seam should be stretched betweewthe scat and knee notches to 
 equal the corresponding side scam length of the forepart, and the inside seam should be 
 stretched about J inch from mid-thigh to the top. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 31 
 
 I 
 
 F THE CUTTER DESIRES CLOSER HANGING TROUSERS 
 THAN THE DRAFTS GIVE, MAKE B TO K FROM 1 
 TO 1J INCH MORE THAN £ SEAT UNTIL THE 
 DESIRED EFFECT IS OBTAINED; IF HE DE- 
 SIRES MORE OPENNESS MAKE B 
 TO K FROM 1 TO 1J INCH LESS 
 THAN £ SEAT. 
 
32 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 EXTREHE PEG=TOPS 
 
 42 outside length, 
 32 inside length, 
 
 DIAGRAMS 15 AND 16. 
 
 THE MEASURES, 
 
 16 bottom, 
 25 knee, 
 
 The Forepart. 
 
 40 seat, 
 34 waist. 
 
 Diagram 15. — Draw line A B, and square forward from A. 
 A to B is the outside length. 
 B to C is the inside length. 
 D is 2 inches less than half-way from C to B. 
 C to E is £ seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D and B. 
 C to F is | seat. 
 F back to G is 1 inch always. 
 G to H is J seat. 
 
 H to I is | inch (for dress) for sizes from 36 to 42 seat, inclusive, and F to J is the same. 
 B to K is § seat. 
 K to L is one-fourth bottom. 
 L to M is one-third bottom. 
 M to N is U inch always. 
 A to O is £ seat. 
 O to P is \ waist. 
 P to Q is f inch always. 
 Q to R is J waist. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, establishing S. 
 Draw a straight line from R to J. 
 
 Shape the undress side as represented, from R through S to H. 
 Draw a straight line from H to L, establishing T. 
 Draw a straight line from C to N, establishing U. 
 T to U2 is one-half knee. 
 E to E2 is one-half as far as from U to U2. 
 
 Shape the dress side from R to a trifle below I, and from 1 to a little more than half-way 
 to T as represented. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented, from O through E2 and U2 to N. 
 Shape the bottom as represented, from N to L, hollowing h inch at the crease line. 
 Draw a straight line for the crease from K toward V. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 3} 
 
 Diagram 16. 
 
 K i« N 
 
 Diagram 15. 
 
34 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 The Backpart. 
 
 Diagram 10. — Sweep back from Q and C, pivoting at N. . 
 
 Extend the knee and bottom lines as represented. 
 
 W is half-way between O and R. 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through \V. 
 
 W to X is £ seat. 
 
 X to Y is \ seat. 
 
 X to Z is i waist. 
 
 Y to 1 is 1 1 inch for making. 
 
 S to 2 is Via seat. 
 
 Draw a straight line from 2 through E2. 
 
 2 to 3 is li inch. 
 
 3 to B3 is \ seat. 
 
 B3 to 4 equals E to E2 of the forepart. 
 
 J to 5 is ] inch more than \ seat. 
 
 Square down from 5. 
 
 T to 7 is i inch. 
 
 U2 to 8 is J inch. 
 
 N to 9 is h, inch more than one-half bottom, and L to 10 is the same. 
 
 Draw a straight line for the V from V to a point half-way between Y and Z. 
 
 Shape the V through Y and Z, and the top from 1 to X as represented. 
 
 Shape the seat seam from X through S and I to a point § inch below 5, hollowing 
 slightly from X to W, and rounding out between \Y and S as represented. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented, through 7 to 9. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented, from 10 to 9, rounding a trifle on each side, and hollow- 
 ing to the straight line at the heel. 
 
 In making, the outside seam should be stretched between the scat and knee notches to 
 equal the corresponding side seam length of the forepart, and the inside scam should be 
 stretched about ] inch from mid-thigh to top. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 35 
 
 A 
 
 LL LEG LINES SHOULD RUN AS NEARLY PARALLEL AS 
 
 POSSIBLE. 
 
36 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 SPRING=BOTTOH TROUSERS 
 
 DIAGRAMS 17 AND IS. 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 41 outside length 
 
 & • 
 
 31 1 inside length, 
 
 38 seat, 
 35 waist. 
 
 21 bottom, 
 16 knee, 
 
 The Forepart. 
 
 Diagram 17. — Draw line A B, and square forward from A. 
 A to B is the outside length. 
 B to C is the inside length. 
 
 D is 2 inches less than half-way from C to B. 
 C to E is £ seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D and B. 
 C to F is i seat. 
 F back to G is 1 inch always. 
 G to H is <t seat. 
 
 H to I is : | inch (for dress) for sizes from 36 to 42 seat, inclusive, and F to J is the same. 
 B to K is J seat. 
 K to L is one-fourth bottom. 
 L to M is one-third bottom. 
 M to N is 1 J inch always. 
 A to O is J seat. 
 O back to P is \ waist. 
 P to Q is :| inch always. 
 O to R is | waist. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, establishing S. 
 Draw a straight line from R to J. 
 
 Draw a straight line from H to a point J inch inside of L. 
 T to U is one-half knee. 
 V is half-way between C and H. 
 Draw the crease line from K toward V. 
 Shape the undress side from R through S to H. 
 
 Shape the spring on the inside seam as represented from about 4 inches above L to L. 
 Shape the dress side as represented, from R to a trifle below I, and from I to a little more 
 than half-way to T. 
 
 Draw a straight line from U to a point i inch inside of N. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 37 
 
 b N 
 
 Diagram 18. 
 
 Diagram 1"! 
 
3S NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 Shape the outside seam from O through E and U to N, rounding over the calf and 
 springing out at the bottom as represented, from about 4 inches above N. 
 Shape the bottom, rounding it down \ inch as represented. 
 
 The Backpart. 
 
 Diagram 18. — Sweep back from Q and C, pivoting at N. 
 
 Extend the knee and bottom cross lines as represented. 
 
 \Y is half-way between O and R. 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through W. 
 
 W to X is ,\ seat. 
 
 X in Y is J seat. 
 
 X to Z is o waist. 
 
 Y to 1 is 1^ inch for making. 
 
 S to 2 is ' i.- seat. 
 
 Draw a straight line from 2 through E. 
 
 2 to 3 is 1 2 inch. 
 
 3 to 4 is 2 seat. 
 
 J to 5 is { inch more than } ; seat. 
 
 Square down from 5. 
 
 T to 7 is J- inch. 
 
 U to 8 is \ inch. 
 
 N to 9 is \ inch more than one-half bottom, and E to 10 is the same. 
 
 Draw a straight line for the run of the A' from V to a point half-way between Y and Z. 
 
 Shape the V through Y and Z, and the top from 1 to X as represented. 
 
 Shape the seat seam from X through W, S and I to a point § inch below 5, hollowing 
 slightly from X to Y\", and rounding out between W and S as represented. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented, through 7 to 9. beginning the spring from 7\ to 8 
 inches above L. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented, from 1 through 4 and X to 10, beginning the 
 spring from 7\ to 8 inches above N. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented, rounding about ] inch on each side, and hollowing to 
 the straight cross line at the heel. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 39 
 
 B 
 
 ETTER TO SPEND A FEW MINUTES EXTRA IN MAK- 
 ING SURE YOU ARE RIGHT IN MEASURING AND 
 DRAFTING THAN A FEW HOURS IN MAK- 
 ING ALTERATIONS CAUSED BY CARE- 
 LESSNESS OR MISTAKES. 
 
40 
 
 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 TIGHT TROUSERS 
 
 DIAGRAMS 19 AND 20. 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 33 inside length, 
 18 bottom. 
 
 16 
 
 Rnee, 
 21 thigh, 
 
 40 seat, 
 36 waist. 
 
 31 length to prominent 
 
 part of calf, 
 43^ outside length, 
 
 The calf, knee and thigh measures arc taken tight over the trousers and called off 1 
 inch larger than taken. This is an old rule, but can of course be varied from, and either less or 
 more be added to the tight measure as taken. 
 
 The Forepart. 
 
 Diagram 19. — A to B2 is the length to the prominent part of the calf, 31 inches for this 
 draft. 
 
 A to B is the outside length. 
 
 B to C is the inside length. 
 
 D is 2 inches less than half-way from C to B. 
 
 C to E is ^ seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D, B2 and B. 
 
 C to F is £ seat. 
 
 F back to G is 1 inch always. 
 
 G to H is £ seat. 
 
 H to I is : l inch (for dress) for sizes from 36 to 42, inclusive, and F to J is the same. 
 
 B to K is 3 seat. 
 
 K to L is one- fourth bottom. 
 
 L to M is one-third bottom. 
 
 M to N is 1 J inch always. 
 
 A to O is I seat. 
 
 O back to P is j waist. 
 
 P to Q is ; ] inch always. 
 
 Q to R is J waist. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, establishing S. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to J. 
 
 Draw a straight line from PI to L, establishing T and 11. 
 
 T to U is one-half knee. 
 
 11 to 12 is onedialf calf. 
 
 V is half-way between C and H. 
 
 Draw the crease line from K toward V. 
 
 Shape the undress side from R through S to H. 
 
 Shape the dress side as represented, from R to a trifle below I, and from I to a little more 
 than half-way to T. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 41 
 
 Diagram 20. 
 
 K |W N 
 
 Diagram 19. 
 
42 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 Shape the outside seam from Q through E, U and 12 to N. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented, from N to L, hollowing A inch at the crease line. 
 
 The Backpart. 
 
 Diagram 20. — Sweep back from Q and C, pivoting at N. 
 
 Extend the knee, calf and bottom lines as represented. 
 
 W is half-way between Q and R. 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through W. 
 
 W to X is £ seat. 
 
 X to Y is J seat. 
 
 X to Z is £ waist. 
 
 Y to 1 is 1 J inch for making. 
 
 S to 2 is Yi2 seat. 
 
 Draw a straight line from 2 through E. 
 
 2 to 3 is 1£ inch. 
 
 3 to 4 is I seat. 
 
 J to 5 is ] inch more than J seat. 
 Square down from 5. 
 T to 7 is J inch. 
 U to 8 is I inch. 
 
 11 to 13 is h inch. 
 
 12 to 14 is I inch. 
 
 N to 9 is \ inch more than one-half bottom, and L to 10 is the same. 
 
 Draw a straight line for the run of the V from V to a point half-way between Y and Z. 
 
 Shape the Y through Y and Z, and the top from 1 to X as represented. 
 
 Shape the seat seam from X through W, S and I to a point '£ inch below 5, hollowing 
 slightly from X to W, and rounding out between \Y and S as represented. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented, through 7 and 13 to 9. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented, from 1 through 4, 8 and 14 to 10. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented, from 10 to 9, rounding a trifle on each side, and hollow- 
 ing to the straight line at the heel. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 43 
 
 w 
 
 HEN TROUSERS DRAW IN TO THE WEARER ALONG THE SEAT SEAM AND ARE UNCOMFORT- 
 ABLE TO HIM, MANY CUTTERS UNDERTAKE TO REMEDY THE FAULT BY LETTING OUT 
 THE SEAT-SEAM OUTLET. THIS IS WORSE THAN USELESS, BECAUSE IT 
 SHORTENS THE SEAM AND AGGRAVATES THE FAULT. THE PROPER ALTERATION IS EITHER 
 TO LET OUT THE INSEAM OUTLET FROM THE FORK TO THE KNEE, OR TO TAKE IN THE 
 SEAT SEAM FROM THE ROUND OF THE SEAT TO THE POINT OF THE FORK. TO DE- 
 TERMINE WHICH OF THESE ALTERATIONS TO MAKE IS A SIMPLE MATTER. IF 
 THERE IS LOOSE MATERIAL AT THE HIPS, CUT DOWN THE SEAT SEAM MORE OR 
 LESS; THIS DRAWS THE TROUSERS CLOSER TO THE HIPS, AND TRANSFERS THE 
 SURPLUS GOODS FROM THE HIPS TO THE FORK, THUS GIVING ROOM FOR 
 THE SEAT. IF THE TROUSERS ARE CLOSE AT THE HIPS, THE OUTLET ON 
 THE INSEAM OF THE BACKPART SHOULD BE USED TO INCREASE THE 
 LENGTH OF THE FORK, THUS GIVING MORE ROOM FOR THE BODY. 
 
44 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 TROUSERS FOR BOW LEGS 
 
 T 
 
 DIAGRAMS 21 AND 22. 
 
 \V< ) extra measures are necessary for bow-legged men, viz.: the tight knee and the 
 between knees (the distance from knee to knee). 
 
 The tight knee measure is taken over the knee cap when the leg is slightly bent. 
 The betzveen knees measure is taken from knee to knee when the feet are touching. 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 42 outside length, I \7h bottom, I 18] fashionable knee, 
 
 32 inside length, 15 tight knee, 36 seat, 
 
 3 between knees, | 34 waist. 
 
 The Forepart. 
 
 Diagram 21. — Draw line A B, and square forward from A. 
 
 A to B is the outside length. 
 
 B to C is the inside length. 
 
 D is 2 inches less than half-way from C to B. 
 
 C to E is £ seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D and B. 
 
 C to F is \ seat. 
 
 F back to G is 1 inch always. 
 
 G to H is ^ seat. 
 
 H to I is f inch (for dress) for sizes from 36 to 42, inclusive, and F to J is the same. 
 
 B to K is J seat. 
 
 K to L is one-fourth bottom. 
 
 E to M is one-third bottom. 
 
 M to N is 1 J inch always. 
 
 A to O is £ seat. 
 
 O back to P is \ waist. 
 
 P to O is 4 inch always. 
 
 Q to R is h waist. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, establishing S. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to J. 
 
 Draw a straight line from H to L, establishing T. 
 
 T to 15 is one-half the between knees measure, 1J inch for this draft. 
 
 15 to 16 is one-half tight knee. 
 
 16 to U is 1 inch. 
 
 U to 17 is one-half knee. 
 V is half-way between C and H. 
 Draw the crease line from K toward Y. 
 
 Shape the undress side from R through S to H, and from H through 17 to L. 
 Shape the dress side as represented, from R to a trifle below I, and from I to a little more 
 than half-way to 17. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 45 
 
 Diagram 22. 
 
 Diagram 21. 
 
46 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 Shape the outside seam from Q through E and U to N. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from N to L, hollowing i inch at the crease line. 
 
 The Backpart. 
 
 Diagram 22. — Sweep back from Q and C, pivoting at N. 
 
 Extend the knee and bottom lines as represented. 
 
 W is half-way between O and R. 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through \Y. 
 
 W to X is J seat. 
 
 X to Y is h seat. 
 
 X to Z is J waist. 
 
 Y to 1 is H inch for making. 
 
 S to 2 is V12 seat. 
 
 Draw a straight line from 2 through E. 
 
 2 to 3 is 1J inch. 
 
 3 to 4 is J seat. 
 
 J to 5 is £ inch more than ^ seat. 
 Square down from 5. 
 17 to 7 is I inch. 
 U to 8 is J inch. 
 
 N to 9 is i inch more than one-half bottom, and L to 10 is the same. 
 
 Draw a straight line for the run of the Y from V to a point half-way between Y and Z. 
 Shape the V through Y and Z, and the top from 1 to X as represented. 
 Shape the seat seam from X through W, S and I to a point f inch below 5, hollowing 
 slightly between X and W, and rounding out between W and S as represented. 
 Shape the inside seam as represented through 7 to 9. 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from 1 through 4 and 8 to 10. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 47 
 
 P 
 
 EG-TOP TROUSERS should be drafted the 
 
 SAME FOR BOW LEGS AS FOR STRAIGHT LEGS. 
 
48 
 
 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 TROUSERS FOR KNOCK-KNEES 
 
 F 
 
 DIAGRAMS 23 AND 24. 
 
 OR knock-kneed men the distance from heel to heel should be taken when the client's 
 knees touch. 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 44 outside length, 
 43 inside length, 
 
 3 inc 
 
 18 bottom, 
 20 knee, 
 les from heel to heel. 
 
 42 seat, 
 42 waist, 
 
 The Forepart. 
 
 Diagram 23. — Draw the line A B, and square forward from A. 
 A to B is the outside length. 
 B to C is the inside length. 
 D is 2 inches less than half-way from C to B. 
 C to E is ^ seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D and B. 
 C to F is | seat. 
 F back to G is 1 inch always. 
 G to H is J seat. 
 
 H to I is ^ inch, and F to J is the same. 
 
 B to B2 is one-half the distance from heel to heel, 1 J inch for this draft. 
 B2 to K is J seat. 
 K to L2 is one-fourth bottom. 
 L2 to M is one-third bottom. 
 M to N is H- inch. 
 
 L2 to L is one-half the distance from heel to heel. 1 \ inch for this draft — the same as from 
 B to B2. 
 
 Draw a straight line from H to L. This establishes T. 
 
 T to U is one-half knee. 
 
 A to O is ^ seat. 
 
 O back to P is : ] waist. 
 
 P to Q is % inch always. 
 
 to R is \ waist. 
 
 O to 23 is 1 proportionate waist (4 inches less than the seat, 38 inches for this draft). 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, establishing S. 
 
 Shape the undress side as represented, through R and S to H. 
 
 23 to 24 equals 23 to R. 
 
 Shape the top as represented, from Q though 24. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 49 
 
 Diagram 24. 
 
 b2 K 
 
 Diagram 23, 
 
 -f-« 
 
 82 
 
50 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 Shape the dress side as represented, through R to a trifle helow I, and from I to a little 
 more than half-way to T. 
 
 Shape the inside seam from T to L2 as represented. 
 
 Shape the outside seam from Q through E and U to N. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from N to L2, hollowing J inch at the crease line. 
 
 V is half-way between C and H. 
 
 V to 25 is ; ] inch less than one-half the distance from heel to heel, 1 { inch for this draft. 
 Draw a straight line for the crease from K toward 25. 
 
 ■s ' 
 
 The Backpart. 
 
 Diagram 24. — Sweep back from Q and C, pivoting at N. 
 
 Extend the knee and bottom cross lines as represented. 
 
 W is half-way between O and 23. 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through \V. 
 
 W to X is £ seat. 
 
 X to Y is i waist. 
 
 Y to 1 is 1 inch for making. 
 
 S to 2 is 7i2 seat. 
 
 Draw a straight line from 2 through E. 
 
 2 to 3 is 1 J inch. 
 
 3 to 4 is £ seat. 
 
 J to 5 is J inch more than ^ seat. 
 
 Square down from 5. 
 
 T to 7 is J inch. 
 
 U to 8 is | inch. 
 
 N to 9 is J inch more than one-half bottom, and L2 to 10 is the same. 
 
 Shape the top as represented, from 1 to X. 
 
 Shape the seat seam from X through W, S and I to a point § inch below 5, hollowing 
 slightly from X to W and rounding out between W and S as represented. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented through 7 to 9. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from 1 through 4 and 8 to 10. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from 10 to 9, rounding a trifle on each side, and hol- 
 lowing to the straight cross line at the heel. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 51 
 
 The Waistband. 
 
 Draw a straight line as from 1 to 2. 
 1 to 2 is one-half full waist. 
 
 3 is half-way between 1 and 2. 
 
 4 is half-way between 2 and 3. 
 
 5 is half-way between 3 and 1. 
 
 Shape the seam edge as represented, through 2 and 5, hollowing at 4 and rounding up it 
 1, one-sixteenth inch for each inch the waist is disproportionately large (4 inches in this 
 case). 
 
 1 to 7 is 2 inches. 
 
 2 to 6 is 1 inch. 
 
 6 to 9 is lh inch. 
 
 7 to 8 is 2 inches. 
 Finish as represented. 
 
52 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 TROUSERS FOR FULL=FRONTED F0RH5 
 
 DIAGRAMS 25 AND 26. 
 
 FULL-FRONTED forms protrude at the stomach in front and fall in at the back more, 
 proportionately, than normal forms. 
 
 A man, for example, measuring 40 inches seat and 36 inches waist, may, if full- 
 fronted, be as prominent at the stomach as a man of normal formation, who, measuring the 
 same around the seat, measures 40 or even 42 inches around the waist. 
 
 The degree of fullness or stomach prominence should be judged by the eye and noted 
 with the measures as " \ t J or f-inch promin >nt," choosing the second degree, if in doubt. 
 The measures used for these diagrams are as follows: 
 
 42 outside length, 
 32 inside length, 
 
 17 bottom, 
 19J knee, 
 f inch prominent. 
 
 The Forepart. 
 
 38 seat, 
 33 waist. 
 
 Diagram 25. — Draw line A B, and square forward from A. 
 
 A to B is the outside length. 
 
 B to C is the inside length. 
 
 D is 2 inches less than half-way from C to B. 
 
 C to E is £ seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D and B. 
 
 C to F is i seat. 
 
 F back to G is 1 inch always. 
 
 G to H is ^ seat. 
 
 H to I is 5 inch (for dress) for sizes from 36 to 42 seat, inclusive, and F to J is the same. 
 
 B to K is J seat. 
 
 K to L is one-fourth bottom. 
 
 L to M is one-third bottom. 
 
 M to N is 1J inch always. 
 
 A to 30 is the degree of prominence, f inch for this draft. 
 
 30 to O is J seat. 
 
 O back to P is \ waist. 
 
 P to Q is f inch always. 
 
 Q to R is | waist. 
 
 Shape the top from Q to a point one-half as far above R as 30 is from A. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, establishing S. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to J. 
 
 Draw a straight line from Ft to L, establishing T. 
 
 T to U is one-half knee. 
 
 V is half-way between C and H. 
 
 Draw the crease line from K toward V. 
 
 Shape the undress side from R through S to H. 
 
^i^lANDASDTROySERS^NDBREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 Diagram 26. 
 
 K /W N 
 Diagram 25. 
 
54 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 Shape the dress side from R to a trifle beiow I as represented, and from I to a little more 
 than half-way to T. 
 
 Shape the outside seam from O through E and U to N. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented, from N to L, hollowing \ inch at the crease line. 
 
 The Backpart. 
 
 Diagram 26. — Sweep back from O and C, pivoting at N. 
 Extend the knee and bottom cross lines as represented. 
 31 is half-way between O and R. 
 
 31 to W is the degree of prominence, % inch for this draft (the same as from A to 30 
 of the forepart ) . 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through \\". 
 
 W to X is £ seat. 
 
 X to Y is h seat. 
 
 X to Z is I waist. 
 
 Y to 1 is li inch for making. 
 
 S to 2 is V12 seat. 
 
 Draw a straight line from 2 through E. 
 
 2 to 3 is 11 inch. 
 
 3 to 4 is J seat. 
 
 J to 5 is ] inch more than \ seat. 
 
 Square down from 5. 
 
 T to 7 is J inch. 
 
 U to 8 is J inch. 
 
 N to is \ inch more than one-half bo:tom, and L to 10 is the same. 
 
 I >raw a straight line for the ran of the V from V to a point half-way between Y and Z. 
 
 Shape the V through Y and Z and the top from 1 to X as represented. 
 
 Shape the seat seam from X through W, S and I to a point § inch below 5, hollowing 
 slightly between X and \Y, and rounding out between W and S as represented. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented through 7 to 9. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from 1 through 4 and 8 to 10. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from 10 to 9. rounding a trifle on each side, and hol- 
 lowing to the straight cross line at the heel. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS Jo 
 
 T 
 
 O BE ABLE TO MAKE A HANDSOME DRAFT IS NOT TO BE 
 AN EXPERT AND ARTISTIC CUTTER; BUT THERE 
 ARE NOT MANY EXPERT AND ARTISTIC- 
 CUTTERS WHO ARE NOT ARLE TO 
 MAKE ARTISTIC DRAFTS. 
 
56 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 TROUSERS FOR FLAT=FRONTED FORHS 
 
 DIAGRAMS 27 AND 28. 
 
 BY flat-fronted forms is meant those that, proportionately, are less prominent at the waist 
 in front, and less indented in the hack than normal forms. 
 
 A man, for example, measuring 36 inches seat and 34 waist, may, if flat-fronted, 
 he no more prominent in front than a man of normal formation, who, measuring the same 
 around the seat, measures 32, or 30, or even 28 inches around the waist. 
 
 The degree of flatness of stomach should be judged by the eye and noted with the meas- 
 ures, as " \, £ or f-inch flat," choosing the second degree, if in doubt. 
 The measures used for these diagrams are as follows: 
 
 42 outside length, 
 32 inside length, 
 
 17 bottom, 
 \9\ knee, 
 £ inch flat. 
 
 The Forepart. 
 
 38 seat, 
 36 waist. 
 
 Diagram 27. — Draw line A B, and square forward from A. 
 
 A to B is the outside length. 
 
 B to C is the inside length. 
 
 D is 2 inches less than half-way from C to B. 
 
 C to E is -J- seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D and B. 
 
 C to F is £ seat. 
 
 F back to G is 1 inch always. 
 
 G to H is £ seat. 
 
 H to I is : | inch (for dress) for sizes from 36 to 42 seat, inclusive, and F to J is the same. 
 
 B to K is J- seat. 
 
 K to L is one-fourth bottom. 
 
 L to M is one-third bottom. 
 
 M to N is 1 i inch always. 
 
 A to 30 is the degree of flatness, i inch for this draft. 
 
 30 to O is ^ seat. 
 
 O back to P is \ waist. 
 
 P to Q is % inch always. 
 
 to R is J waist. 
 
 Shape the top from Q to a point one-half as far below R as 30 is from A. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, establishing S. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to J. 
 
 Draw a straight line from H to L, establishing T. 
 
 T to U is one-half knee. 
 
 V is half-way between C and H. 
 
 Draw the crease line from K toward V. 
 
 Shape the undress side from R through S to H. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 57 
 
 Diagram 28. 
 
 Diagram 27. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 Shape the dress side from R to a trifle below I as represented, and from I to a little more 
 than half-way to T. 
 
 Shape the outside seam from Q through E and U to N. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from N to L, hollowing -J inch at the crease line. 
 
 The Backpart. 
 
 Diagram 28. — Sweep back from Q and C. pivoting at N. 
 Extend the knee and bottom cross lines as represented. 
 31 is half-way between O and R. 
 
 31 to W is the degree of flatness, \ inch for this draft (the same as from A to 30 of the 
 forepart). 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through W. 
 
 W to X is £ seat. 
 
 X to Y is \ seat. 
 
 X to Z is J waist. 
 
 Y to 1 is li inch for making. 
 
 S to 2 is Vu seat. 
 
 Draw a straight line from 2 through E. 
 
 2 to 3 is 1 J inch. 
 
 3 to 4 is -J seat. 
 
 J to 5 is ] inch more than £ seat. 
 
 Square down from 5. 
 
 T to 7 is I inch. 
 
 U to 8 is \ inch. 
 
 N to 9 is \ inch more than one-half bottom, and L to N is the same. 
 
 Draw a straight line for the run of the V from V to a point half-way between Y and Z. 
 
 Shape the V through Y and Z and the top from 1 to X as represented. 
 
 Shape the seat seam from X through W, S and I to a point § inch below 5, hollowing 
 slightly between X and W, and rounding out between \Y and S as represented. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented through 7 to 9. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from 1 through 4 and 8 to 10. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from 10 to 9, rounding a trifle on each side, and hol- 
 lowing to the straight cross line at the heel. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 59 
 
 I 
 
 N MAKING, THE OUTSIDE SEAM OF THE BACKPART 
 
 SHOULD BE STRETCHED BETWEEN THE SEAT AND 
 
 KNEE NOTCHES TO EQUAL THE CORRESPONDING 
 
 SIDE SEAM LENGTH OF THE FOREPART, AND THE 
 
 INSIDE SEAM SHOULD BE STRETCHED J INCH 
 
 FROM THE MID-THIGH TO THE FORK. 
 
60 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 TROUSERS WITH SIDE STRIPE 
 
 DIAGRAMS 29 AND 30. 
 
 TROUSERS with a self-woven side stripe are not now fashionable, and there are many 
 cutters who have never seen a trousering of that kind. Fashion, however, repeats it- 
 self, and the side stripe is likely to become popular at any time. To know how to 
 cut the stripe into the forepart in such a way that any other stripe or any other pattern the 
 fabric may have will not be thrown out of plumb, is therefore desirable. How to do this is 
 now explained. 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 42 outside length, 
 32 inside length, 
 
 IS bottom, | 40 seat, 
 
 19 knee, 36 waist. 
 
 The Forepart. 
 
 Diagram 29. — Draw line A B, and square forward from A. 
 A to B is the outside length. 
 B to C is the inside length. 
 D is 2 inches less than half-way from C to B. 
 C to E is J seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D and B. 
 C to F is £ seat. 
 F back to G is 1 inch always. 
 G to H is £ seat. 
 
 H to I is J inch (for dress) for sizes from 36 to 42 seat, inclusive, and F to J is the same. 
 B to K is J seat. 
 K to L is one-fourth bottom. 
 L to M is one-third bottom. 
 M to N is 1-J inch always. 
 A to O is J seat. 
 
 O to Q is 3 inch more than -j waist. 
 Q to R is i waist. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, establishing S. 
 Draw a straight line from R to J. 
 Draw a straight line from Ft to L, establishing T. 
 V is half-way between C and H. 
 Draw the crease line from K toward V. 
 Shape the undress side from R through S to H. 
 
 Shape the dress side from R to a trifle below I, and from I to a little more than half- 
 way to T. 
 
 20 is half-way between N and B. 
 A to 22 equals B to 20. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 61 
 
 10 20 
 
 Diagram 30. 
 
 Diagram 29. 
 
62 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 Draw a straight line from 20 to 22 for the outside seam, establishing 21, 25 and U. 
 22 to 26 is i inch more than the width of the stripe. 
 
 26 to 24 is -J inch for each inch the waist is smaller than the seat, V* or i inch for this 
 draft. 
 
 R to 23 is i inch. 
 
 Shape the V and the top of the stripe as represented. 
 
 Shape the bottom from 20 to L, hollowing as represented \ inch at the crease line. 
 
 The Backpart. 
 
 Diagram 30. — Sweep back from 22 and 25, pivoting at N. 
 Extend the knee and bottom cross lines as represented. 
 W is half way between O and R. 
 Draw a straight line from S up through \Y. 
 W to X is J seat. 
 X to Y is J seat. 
 X to Z is J waist. 
 Y to 32 is li inch for making. 
 
 Measure the top of the forepart from 23 to 24 and from 26 to 22, and whatever it- 
 measures less than J waist (1 inch in this case), add from 32 to 1. 
 S to 2 is V12 seat. 
 Draw a straight line from 2 through 21. 
 
 2 to 3 is 1J inch more than h seat. 
 
 3 to 4 equals 21 to E of the forepart. 
 J to 5 is -\ inch more than -J- seat. 
 Square down from 5. 
 
 T to 7 is J inch. 
 
 U to T and 7 to 8 is 1 inch more than onedialf knee. 
 
 N to 9 is -1 inch more than one-half boi.tom. 
 
 20 to L and 9 to 10 is 1 inch more than one-half bottom. 
 
 Draw a straight line for the run of the V from V to a point half-way between Y and Z 
 
 Shape the V through Y and Z, and the top from 1 to X as represented. 
 
 Shape the seat seam from X through W, S and I to § inch below 5, hollowing slightly 
 between X and W, and rounding out between \Y and S as represented. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented through 7 to 9. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from 1 through 4 and 8 to 10. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from 10 to 9, rounding a trifle on each side, and hol- 
 lowing to the straight cross line at the knee. 
 
NEW STANDARD TR OUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 63 
 
 n 
 
 ISTAKES ARE INEVITABLE, BUT A BLUNDER IS UN- 
 FORGIVABLE. 
 
 w 
 
 HEN IN DOUBT WHETHER TO CLASS THE CLIENT 
 AS FULL-FRONTED, OR FLAT-FRONTED, 
 CLASS HIM AS NORMAL. 
 
64 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 ON-GROWING WAISTBANDS AND TROUSERS 
 WITH EXTRA SEAT ROOH 
 
 I 
 
 DIAGRAMS 31 AND 32. 
 
 On-Growing Waistband. 
 
 F on-growing or French waistbands are required, proceed as follows : 
 
 Diagram 31. — Q to 10 is li inch or a little more, and R to 11 is \ inch more than 
 Q to 10. 
 Diagram 32. — 1 to 12 equals Q to 10 of the forepart, and 13 to 14 is J inch less. 
 
 Extra Seat Room. 
 
 Some men desire an unusual amount of seat room even at the expense of fit; but they 
 want the sacrifice to be as small as possible. To provide seat room without greatly affect- 
 ing the fit, and also without increasing the seat size, it is only necessary to retreat and 
 lengthen the seat seam of the backpart, which is done as follows: 
 
 Diagram 32. — Instead of drawing the seat line from S through W as heretofore, draw 
 it through a point from 1 to 2 inches back of W. For this draft it is drawn through O. 
 
 O toX is <t seat. 
 
 X to 13 is one-half as far as from W to the seat seam. 
 
 Finish the top as usual, or omit the V as represented. If the V is omitted, make 13 to Y 
 ij waist and add 1 inch for making from Y to 1. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 65 
 
 Diagram 32. 
 
 Diagram 31. 
 
66 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 BROAD FALLS 
 
 D 
 
 DIAGRAMS 33, 34 AND 35. 
 
 With On-Growing Waistband. 
 
 IAGRAM 33. — The forepart is cut the same as for a fly-front, except that \ inch ; s 
 added for turn-in from 1 to 2 and 3 to 4. 
 
 From 1 to the notch at 5 (for the opening ) is 6 inches. 
 3 to 6 is 3 inches. 
 
 6 to 7 is \ inch, and 3 to 8 is the same. 
 1 to 9 is If inch, and 8 to 10 is the same. 
 
 Shape the bottom of the bearer as represented by the broken line. 
 Mark for the buttonholes (which are in the forepart) as represented. 
 Diagram 34. — The fall bearer sews to the backpart as represented on the left (the waist- 
 band is not shown). Four buttons and holes close the fronts, and three buttons are set on, 
 to match the holes in the forepart. The pocket opening is 6 inches long. 
 
 With Separate Waistband. 
 
 Diagram 35. — The forepart is cut the same as shown by and explained for Diagram 33. 
 The bearer is also cut the same, except that the top follows the actual top of the fore- 
 part from 1 to 3. 
 
 The waistband is cut as usual, except that it extends only 4 inch beyond the front notch. 
 
.NEW_ STANDARD. TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 67 
 
 1 
 
 _C-V_ J 
 
68 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 RIDING TROUSERS 
 
 DIAGRAMS 36, 37, 38 AND 39. 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 42 outside length, 16^ bottom, 
 
 32 inside length, 18^ knee, 
 
 40 seat, 
 36 waist. 
 
 The Forepart. 
 
 Diagram 36. — Square lines A C and A R, extending - the side line only far enough for die 
 rise. 
 
 A to C is the difference between the outside length and the inside length, 10 inches for 
 this draft. 
 
 C to E is ^ seat. 
 
 Square across from E and C. . 
 
 C to F is h. aeat. 
 
 F back to G is 1 inch always. 
 
 G to H is I seat. 
 
 H to I is % inch (for dress) for sizes from 36 to 42 seat, inclusive, and F to J is the same 
 
 A to O is J seat. 
 
 O back to P is \ waist. 
 
 P to Q is ^ inch always. 
 
 Q to R is \ waist. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, establishing S. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to J. 
 
 R to 40 is 2\ inches. 
 
 Draw a straight line from V up through 40, establishing 39. 
 
 40 to 38 is % inch, and R to 37 is the same. 
 
 39 to 36 is 1 inch. 
 
 Shape the undress side through R and S to H as represented. 
 
 Shape the dress side as represented from R to a trifle below I. 
 
 The top is cut from to 40, and from 38 to 37, and the fall is cut from 36 to 38. 
 
 35 is half-way between E and C. 
 
 H to 34 is \ inch. 
 
 Square down from 34 by 35. 
 
 G to L is 1 inch more than the inside length. 
 
 Draw a straight line across from L parallel with the seat line. 
 
 T is 2 inches less than half-way between 34 and L. 
 
 Draw a straight line across from T parallel with the seat line. 
 
 T to U is one-half knee. 
 
 L to K is one-fourth bottom. 
 
 L to M is \\ inch. 
 
 M to N is one-third bottom. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 69 
 
 37 38 33 
 
 Diagram 37. 
 
 Diagram 36. 
 
70 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 Shape the inside seam for the undress side from H through T to L. 
 
 Shape the dress side of the inside seam from I to a little more than half-way to T as 
 represented. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from Q through E and U to N. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from N to L. 
 
 The strap which covers the opening of the hearer (shown by the shaded part) is cut \% 
 inch wide from 38 to 33 and from 36 to 32, and is shaped as represented. 
 
 T to the notch at 28 is 2 inches, and T to the notch at 29 is the same. 
 
 U to the notch at 30 is 2 inches, and U to the notch at 31 is the same. 
 
 The Backpart. 
 
 Diagrams 37. — Sweep back from Q and Q pivotin°- at N. 
 
 Extend the knee line both ways. 
 
 Draw a straight cross line at the bottom 1 inch above M and the same distance above N. 
 
 W is half-way between O and R. 
 
 S to 31 is J inch. 
 
 Draw a straight line from 31 through W. 
 
 W to X is J seat. 
 
 X to 13 is 1 inch. 
 
 13 to 14 is U inch. 
 
 13 to Y is I scat. 
 
 13 to Z is J waist. 
 
 Y to 1 is li inch for making. 
 
 31 to 2 is Vm seat. 
 
 2 to 3 is If inch. 
 
 3 to 4 is J seat. 
 
 J to 5 is 2 inch more than } t seal. 
 Square down from 5. 
 5 to 6 is y inch. 
 T to 7 is -J- inch. 
 U to 8 is J inch. 
 
 N to 9 is J inch more than one-half bottom, and L to 10 is the same. 
 
 Draw a straight line for the run of the V from V to a point half-way between Y and Z. 
 1 to 12 is 2 inches. 
 
 Shape the V through Y and Z, and the top from 12 through 14 as represented. 
 Shape the scat scam through X. W and 31 to 6 as represented, hollowing slightly from 
 X to W, and rounding out between W and 31 as represented. 
 Shape the inside seam as represented from 6 through 7 to 9. 
 Shape the outside seam as represented through 1, 4 .and 8 to N. 
 Shape the bottom as represented from 10 to 9. 
 
 7 to the notch at 17 is 1 inch, and 7 to the notch at 18 is 2 inches. 
 
 8 to the notch at 15 is 1 inch, and 8 to the notch at 16 is 2 inches. 
 
 * * * * 
 
 In making, stretch I inch between 15 and 16 and 17 and 18, and full the forepart to the 
 backpart to make the notches meet. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND B REECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 71 
 
 The Fall Bearer with Sewed-On Waistband. 
 
 Diagram 38.— From the front edge of the forepart to 1 is : \ inch, and to 2 is the same. 
 1 to 2 is 21 inches. 
 
 Diagram 38. 
 
 36 is 1 inch below the hip cross line. 
 
 Shape as represented. 
 
 The solid lines show the fall. 
 
 . hid a scam in cutting from 36 to 40. 
 
 The waist hand is 2 inches wide and § inch longer than the width of the top of the fore- 
 part. 
 
72 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 The Fall Bearer with On-Growing Waistband. 
 Diagram 39. — The forepart is cut with the waistband on, the widths being 2 inches 
 
 Diagram 39. 
 
 from O to 6 and from 40 to 5. 
 
 The shaded part shows the fall bearer. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 75 
 
 PART II. 
 
 BREECHES 
 
74 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 RIDING BREECHES 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 The measures required for riding breeches are as follows : 
 
 Outside length (taken as for trousers). 
 
 Inside length (taken as for trousers). 
 
 Waist. 
 
 Seat. 
 
 Knee (taken on the drawers with the knee slightly bent). 
 
 Small-of-knee (taken on the drawers). 
 
 Calf, at largest part (taken on the drawers). 
 
 Ankle (taken on drawers about 9 inches belozv the small-of-knee). 
 
 The outside length and the inside length may be taken to the small-of-knee only, if pre- 
 ferred, but the full lengths are preferable. The lengths to the knee, to the calf and to the 
 ankle may also be taken, but are unnecessary. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 75 
 
 N 
 
 O CARELESS CUTTER WAS EVER l'FRMANENTLY SUC- 
 CESSFUL. 
 
 I 
 
 F MORE OPENNESS IS DESIRED, SQUARE DOWN FROM H 
 
 (FOR THE INSIDE SEAM) FROM A POINT MORE 
 
 OR LESS ABOVE E, UNTIL THE DESIRED LEG 
 
 SPREAD IS OBTAINED. 
 
76 
 
 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 RIDING BREECHES WITH CONTINUATIONS 
 
 {Medium Size.) 
 DIAGRAMS 40, 41 AND 42. 
 
 42 outside length, 
 32 inside length, 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 32 waist, 
 
 36 seat, 
 
 121 small-of-knee, 
 
 The Forepart. 
 
 15] knee, 
 141 calf, 
 1 1 i ankle. 
 
 Diagram 40. — Draw line A K and square across from A. 
 
 A to C is the difference between the outside length and the inside length, 10 inches for 
 this draft. 
 
 C to B is 1 inch more than one-half the inside length, 17 inches for this draft. 
 
 B to D is 21 inches always. 
 
 B to K is 4 inches always. 
 
 C to E is <l seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D, B and K. 
 
 C to F is £ seat. 
 
 F to G is 1 inch always. 
 
 G to H is J seat. 
 
 H to I is | inch (for dress) for all sizes from 30 to 42 seat, inclusive, the same as for 
 trousers. For the larger sizes it is 1 inch, for the smaller § inch. 
 
 A to O is \ seat. 
 
 to P is J waist. 
 
 P to Q is £- inch always. 
 Q to R is | waist. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F and shape the undress side to H as represented. 
 Draw a straight line from R to J, locating S, and shape the dress side to a trifle below T 
 as represented. 
 
 Shape the top from toward a point ] inch below R. 
 
 V is half-way between C and H. 
 
 R to 1 is 21 inches. 
 
 Draw a straight line from V through 1, establishing 2. 
 
 1 to the top of the fall is f inch. 
 The fall cut extends 1 inch below 2. 
 
 Square down from H by E as represented, establishing 8 and T. 
 
 Square down from T, establishing L. 
 
 T to M is 1 inch. 
 
 M to U is one-third small-of-knee. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 77 
 
 Diagram 40. 
 
78 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 K to N is £ inch more than B to U. 
 
 Draw a straight line from N np through U, establishing 3. 
 
 E to 4 is more or less according to taste or style. For this draft it is 1] inch. 
 
 Shape the undress side of the inside seam from H to T, swelling \ inch as from 8 to the 
 notch at 5. 
 
 Shape the dress side of the inside seam from I to about half-way to 5. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from a point J inch below N to L. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from through 4 to 3. 
 
 The top buttonhole is 1J inch above the small-of-knee line. The three upper button- 
 holes are 1 inch apart. The bottom buttonhole is § inch above the edge. 
 
 Each of the lower notches is on the knee line as at 3 and 5. 
 
 The notch at 6 is 4 inches above 3. 
 
 The notch at 7 is 4 inches above 5. 
 
 If preferred, the waistband may be cut on as indicated by the broken lines, and the front 
 finish may be either a full-length fall (see Diagram 39) or a fly. 
 
 The Backpart. 
 
 Diagram 41. — Extend all the cross lines as represented, except at the bottom. 
 
 W is half-way between O and R. 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through W. 
 
 W to X is I seat. 
 
 X to 9 is 1 inch, and 9 to 10 is U inch. 
 
 X to Y is 1 inch more than J waist. 
 
 J to 11 is \ inch more than \ seat. 
 
 Square down from 1 1 . 
 
 11 to 12 is § inch. 
 
 From the side seam of the forepart to 21 is 1 inch more than from E to the sideseam. 
 
 L to 13 is J inch. 
 
 Shape the inside seam on a slight curve from T toward 13. 
 
 L to 14 is 1 inch. 
 
 L to 15 is f inch. 
 
 Square across from 15. 
 
 3 to 5 and 5 to 16 is 1 inch more than the knee size, 16f inches altogether for this draft. 
 
 U to T and T to 17 is 1 inch more than the small-of-knee, 13J inches altogether for this 
 draft. 
 
 N to L and 14 to 18 is 1 inch more than the calf, 15i inches for this draft. 
 
 Shape the seat seam through X, W and S to 12, hollowing between X and W, and round- 
 ing out between W and S as represented. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented from 12 to T. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from Y through 21, 16 and 17 to 18. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from 18 to 14. 
 
 21 to the notch at 19 equals the side-seam length of the forepart from 4 (see Diagram 
 40) to the top. 
 
 Shape the top as represented. 
 
 19 to 20 is 2 inches. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 79 
 
 h 
 
 Diagram 41. 
 
80 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 The upper inside notch corresponds with the upper inside notch of the forepart. The 
 lower inside notch is 1 inch above 5. 
 
 From 18 to the lower notch (at the top of the tack ) equals the length of the forepart from 
 the bottom to the notch at 3. The upper notch is 3 inches above the lower one. 
 
 The width of the button stand is 1| inch, and the buttons arc marked on it to match the 
 buttonholes of the forepart. 
 
 In making, stretch the backpart \ inch between the notches. The forepart is, of course, 
 to be fulled on to the backpart at the knee the other \ inch difference in length, between the 
 corresponding notches. 
 
 The Continuations. 
 
 Diagram 42. — Square each way from A. 
 
 A to B is the calf size and U inch for making, 16 inches altogether for this draft. 
 
 Square down from B. 
 
 B to C is 5^ inches. 
 
 A to D is 5£ inches. 
 
 Draw a straight line from D to C. 
 
 A to E is the width of the forepart from N to L. 
 
 F is i inch less than half-way from E to B. 
 
 Square down from E, establishing G. 
 
 Square down from F, establishing H. 
 
 D to I is U inch more than the size of the ankle, 13 inches altogether for this draft. 
 
 J is half-way between I and C. 
 
 K is half-way between C and T. 
 
 G to L equal's K to C, and G to M is the same. 
 
 H to N equals K to C, and H to O is the same. 
 
 B to P is 1£ inch for button stand, and C to is the same. 
 
 Shape as represented, curving out slightly from E to L and M, and from F to N and O, 
 and curving down about J inch at L, M, N and O. 
 
 The top and bottom buttonholes are each § inch from the upper and lower edges respec- 
 tively. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 81 
 
 C K J 
 
 OHN 
 
 Diagram 42. 
 
 (KG h 
 
82 
 
 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 RIDING BREECHES WITH CONTINUATIONS 
 
 (For Corpulent Men.) 
 DIAGRAMS 43 AND 44. 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 42 outside length, 
 30 inside length. 
 
 48 waist, 
 48 belly, 
 
 46 seat, 
 
 18 J knee, 
 
 15f small-of-knee, 
 
 17 calf, 
 14 ankle. 
 
 Diagram 43. 
 
 The Forepart.- — Draw line A K and square across from A. 
 
 A to C is the difference between the outside length and the inside length, 12 inches for 
 this draft. 
 
 C to B is 1 inch more than one-half the inside length, 16 inches for this draft. 
 
 B to D is 2i inches always. 
 
 B to K is 4 inches always. 
 
 C to E is £ seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D, B and K. 
 
 C to F is J seat. 
 
 F to G is 1 inch always. 
 
 G to H is J seat. 
 
 H to I is 1 inch (for dress) for all sizes larger than 42 scat, and F to I is the same. 
 
 A to O is I seat. 
 
 O to P is J waist. 
 
 P to is | inch always. 
 
 Q to R is I waist. 
 
 23 is half-way between A and E. 
 
 Square across from 23. 
 
 23 to 24 equals A to 0. 
 
 24 to 25 is h belly. 
 
 O to 27 is .] proportionate waist (4 inches less than seat), 42 inches for this draft, the 
 seat being 46. 
 
 Shape the undress side through R and 25 to H. Draw a straight line from J to a point 
 ] inch beyond 25. 
 
 Shape the dress side through R and S to a trifle below I. 
 
 R to 26 equals 27 to R. 
 
 Shape the top as represented from toward 26. 
 
 V is half-way between C and 1 1. 
 
 26 to 1 is 21 inches. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 83 
 
 (*)K 18 
 
 Diagram 43. 
 
84 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 Draw a straight line from V through 1, establishing 2. 
 
 The top of the fall rises £ inch above 1 and 26. 
 
 The fall cut extends 1 inch below 2. 
 
 Square down from H by E as represented, establishing 8 and T. 
 
 Square down from T, establishing L. 
 
 T to M is I inch. 
 
 M to U is one-third small-of-knee. 
 
 K to N is J inch more than B to U. 
 
 Draw a straight line from N up through U, establishing 3. 
 
 E to 4 is more or less according to taste or style. For this draft it is 1£ inch. 
 
 Shape the undress side of the inside seam from H to T, swelling .] inch as from 8 to the 
 notch at 5. 
 
 Shape the dress side of the inside seam from I to about half-way to 5. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from a point ^ inch below N to L. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from O through 4 to 3. 
 
 The top buttonhole is 1J inch above the small-of-knee line. The three upper button- 
 holes are 1 inch apart. The bottom buttonhole is § inch above the edge. 
 
 Each of the lower notches is on the knee line as at 3 and 5. 
 
 The notch at 6 is 4 inches above 3. 
 
 The notch at 7 is 4 inches above 5. 
 
 The Backpart. — Extend all the cross lines as represented, except at the bottom. 
 
 W is half-way between O and 27. 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through W. 
 
 W to X is £ seat. 
 
 X to 9 is 1 inch, and 9 to 10 is li inch. 
 
 X to Y is 1 inch more than J waist. 
 
 J to 1 1 is h inch more than <t seat. 
 
 Square down from 11. 
 
 1 1 to 12 is f inch. 
 
 From 4 to 21 is 1 inch more than from E to 4. 
 
 L to 13 is J inch. 
 
 Shape the inside seam on a slight curve from T towards 13. 
 
 L to 14 is 1 inch. 
 
 L to 15 is ^ inch. 
 
 Square across from 15. 
 
 3 to 5 and 5 to 16 is 1 inch more than the knee size, 19J inches altogether for this draft. 
 
 U to T and T to 17 is 1 inch more than the small-of-the-knee, 16f inches altogether for 
 this draft. 
 
 N to L and 14 to 18 is 1 inch more than the calf, 18 inches altogether for this draft. 
 
 Shape the seat seam through X, W and S to 12, hollowing between X and W, and round- 
 ing out between W and S as represented. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented from 12 to T. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from Y through 21, 16 and 17 to 18. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from 18 to 14. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 85 
 
 21 to the notch at 19 equals the side-seam length of the forepart from 4 to Q. 
 
 19 to 20 is 2 inches. 
 
 Shape the top as represented. 
 
 The upper inside notch corresponds with that of the forepart. The lower inside notch 
 
 is 1 inch above 5. 
 
 From 18 to the lower notch (at the top of the tack) equals the length of the forepart 
 from the bottom to the notch at 3. The upper notch is 3 inches above the lower one. 
 
 The width of the button stand is 1 { inch, and the buttons are marked on it to match the 
 buttonholes of the forepart. 
 
 OHN 
 
 MG h 
 
 Diagram 44. 
 
 The Continuations. 
 
 Diagram 44. — Square both ways from A. 
 
 A to B is the calf size and U inch for making, \X\ inches altogether for this draft. 
 
 Square down from B. 
 
 B to C is 5 J inches. 
 
 A to D is 5h inches. 
 
 Draw a straight line from D to C. 
 
 A to E is the width of the forepart from N to L. 
 
 F is I inch less than half-way from E to B. 
 
 Square down from E, establishing G. 
 
 Square down from F, establishing H. 
 
 D to I is 1J inch more than the size of the ankle, 
 
 J is half-way between I and C. 
 
 K is half-way between C and J. 
 
 G to L equals K to C, and G to M is the same. 
 
 H to N equals K to C, and H to O is the same. 
 
 B to P is 1:] inch for the button stand, and C to O is the same. 
 
 Shape as represented, curving out slightly from E to L and M, and from F to N and O. 
 and curving down about \ inch at L, M, N and O. 
 
 The top and bottom buttonholes are each | inch from the upper and lower edges, re- 
 spectively. 
 
 151 inches altogether for this draft. 
 
86 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 EXTREMELY PEAR=SHAPED RIDING BREECHES 
 WITH BOTTOn TAB AND CONTINUATIONS 
 
 
 DIAGRAMS 45 AND 46. 
 
 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 
 44 A outside length, 
 
 38 waist, 
 
 17 knee, 
 
 16 calf, 
 
 34 inside length, 
 
 42 seat, 
 
 14 small-of-knee, 
 
 13 ankle 
 
 
 Diagram 45. 
 
 
 1'he Forepart. — Draw line A K and square across from A. 
 
 A to C is the difference between the outside length and the inside length, lOi inches for 
 this draft. 
 
 C to B is 1 inch more than one-half the inside length, 18 inches for this draft. 
 
 B to D is 2\ inches always. 
 
 B to K is 4 inches always. 
 
 C to E is £ seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D, B and K. 
 
 C to F is \ seat. 
 
 F to G is 1 inch always. 
 
 G to H is \ seat. 
 
 H to I is \ inch (for dress) for all sizes from 36 to 42 seat, inclusive, and F to J is the 
 same. 
 
 A to O is J seat. 
 
 O to F is \ waist. 
 
 P to O is ] inch always. 
 
 Q to R is \ waist. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, and shape the undress side from the same point to 
 H as represented. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to J, establishing S, and shape the dress side from the 
 same point through S to a trifle below I as represented. 
 
 V is half-way between C and H. 
 
 Draw a straight line from V through a point 2\ inches from R, for the fall opening, es- 
 tablishing 2. 
 
 Draw a straight line for the top from Q toward a point \ inch below R. The top of 
 the fall rises % inch above this line. 
 
 The fall cut extends 1 inch belozv 2. 
 
 Square down from H by E as represented, establishing 8 and T. 
 
 Square down from T, establishing L. 
 
 T to M is I inch. 
 
 M to U is one-third small-of-knee. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 h « 24 
 
 Diagram 45. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 K to N is ,1, inch more than B to U. 
 
 Draw a straight line from N up through U, establishing 3. 
 
 E to 4 is more or less according to taste or style. For this draft it is 2 inches. 
 
 Shape the undress side of the inside seam from H to T, swelling ] inch as from 8 to the 
 notch at 5. 
 
 Shape the dress side of the inside seam from I to about half-way to 5. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from a point ] inch below N to L. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from O through 4 to 3. 
 
 X to 22 is 1:] inch. 
 
 22 to 23 is 1 J inch, and N to 24 is the same. 
 
 The bottom buttonhole is in the center of the tab. 
 
 Each of the lower notches is on the knee line as at 3 and 5. 
 
 The notch at 6 is 4 inches above 3. 
 
 The notch at 7 is 4 inches above 5. 
 
 The Backpart. — Extend all the cross lines as represented, except at the bottom. 
 
 W is half-way between O and R. 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through W. 
 
 W to X is I seat. 
 
 X to 9 is 1 inch, and 9 to 10 is U inch. 
 
 X to Y is 1 inch more than \ waist. 
 
 J to 11 is 2 inch more than J seat. 
 
 Square down from 11. 
 
 1 1 to 12 is % inch. 
 
 From 4 to 21 is 1 inch more than from E to 4. 
 
 L to 13 is | inch. 
 
 Shape the inside seam mi a slight curve from T toward 13. 
 
 L to 14 is 1 inch. 
 
 L to 15 is '■} inch. 
 
 Square across from 15. 
 
 3 to 5 and 5 to 16 is 1 inch more than the knee size, 18 inches altogether for this draft. 
 
 U to T and T to 17 is 1 inch more than the small-of-knee, 15 inches altogether for this 
 draft. 
 
 N to L and 14 to 18 is 1 inch more than the calf, 17 inches altogether for this draft. 
 
 Shape the seat seam through X, \Y and S to 12, hollowing between X and W, and round- 
 ing out between W and S as represented. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented from 12 to T. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from Y through 21, 16 and 17 to 18. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from 18 to 14. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 89 
 
 21 to the notch at 19 equals the side-seam length of the forepart from 4 to Q. 
 
 19 to 20 is 2 inches. 
 
 Shape the top as represented. 
 
 The upper inside notch corresponds with that of the forepart. The lower inside notch 
 is 1 inch above 5. 
 
 From 18 to the lower notch (at the top of the tack) equals the length of the forepart 
 from the bottom to the notch at 3. The upper notch is 3 inches above the lower one. 
 
 The width of the button stand is 1 : { inch, and the buttons are marked on it to correspond 
 with the buttonholes on the forepart. 
 
 The bottom button is set on to match the buttonhole in the tab, of course, as repre- 
 sented, not in the button stand. 
 
 HN 
 
 Diagram 46. 
 
 /WG h 
 
 The Continuations. 
 
 Diagram 46. — Square both ways from A. 
 
 A to B is the calf size and 11 inch for making, 17J inches altogether for this draft. 
 Square down from B. 
 B to C is 5.J inches. 
 A to D is 5 .J,- inches. 
 Draw a straight line from D to C. 
 A to E is the width of the forepart from N to L. 
 F is 2 inch less than half-way from E to B. 
 Square down from E, establishing G. 
 Square down from F, establishing H. 
 
 D to I is 1J- inch more than the size of the ankle, 141 inches altogether for this draft. 
 J is half-way between I and C. 
 K is half-way between C and J. 
 G to L equals K to C, and G to M is the same. 
 H to N equals K to C, and H to O is the same. 
 
 A to R equals the length of the button tab of the forepart ( N to 24), l-l inch, and D to S 
 is the same. . 
 
 Finish as represented. 
 
90 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 RIDING BREECHES WITH DIAGONAL=KNEE=V 
 
 (Extreme Pear Shape.) 
 DIAGRAMS 47 AND 48. 
 
 WHEN the material is so unelastic that it is impractical to obtain the knee fullness by 
 stretching and fulling in the usual way (as explained for Diagrams 40 and 41 ), 
 the effect desired may be easily obtained by aid of a V as illustrated by the accom- 
 panying diagrams. 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 43 outside length, 
 33 inside length, 
 
 34 waist, 
 39 seat. 
 
 1(4 knee, J 16 calf, 
 
 13.1 small-of-knee, 12J ankle. 
 
 Diagram 47. 
 
 The Forepart. — Square both ways fromA as represented. 
 
 A to C is the difference between the outside length and the inside length, 10 inches for 
 tins draft. 
 
 C to B is | inch more than one-half the inside length, 17 inches for this draft. 
 
 B to D is 2\ inches always. 
 
 B to K is 4 inches always. 
 
 C to E is ^ seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D, B and EC. 
 
 C to F is \ seat. 
 
 F to G is 1 inch always. 
 
 G to H is \ seat. 
 
 11 to I is \ inch (for dress) for all sizes from 36 to 42 seat, inclusive, and F to J is the 
 same. 
 
 A to O is \ seat. 
 
 O to P is \ waist. 
 
 P to O is | inch always. 
 
 Q to R is i waist. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, and shape the undress side from the same point to 
 H as represented. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to L establishing S, and shape the dress side from the 
 same point through S to a trifle below I as represented. 
 
 V is half-way between C and H. 
 
 R to 1 is 2 J inches. 
 
 Draw a straight line from V through 1, for the fall opening, establishing 2. 
 
 Draw a straight line for the top from O toward a point \ inch below R. The top of 
 the fall rises \ inch above this line. 
 
 The fall cut extends 1 inch bclozv 2. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 91 
 
 K '8 
 
 Diagram 47. 
 
92 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 Square down from H by E as represented, establishing 8 and T. 
 
 Square down from T, establishing L. 
 
 T to M is | inch. M to U is one-third small-of-knee. K to N is J- inch more than B 
 toU. 
 
 Draw a straight line from N up through U, establishing 3. 
 
 E to 4 is more or less according to taste or style. For this draft it is 2\ inches. 
 
 Shape the undress side of the inside seam from H to T, swelling \ inch as from S to the 
 notch at 5. 
 
 Shape the dress side of the inside seam from 1 to about half-way to 5. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from a point \ inch below N to L. 
 
 Shape the outside seam from O through 4 to 3. 
 
 The top buttonhole is 1] inch above the small-of-knee line. The three upper button- 
 holes are 1 inch apart. The lowest buttonhole is -f inch above the edge. 
 
 Q to 14 (for the waistband) is Y\ inch, and 1 to 15 is the same. 
 
 3 to 22 is 2 inches. Draw a straight line from 22 to T. 
 
 The Backpart. — Extend all the cross lines as represented. 
 
 W is half-way between O and R. Draw a straight line from S up through W. 
 
 W to X is J seat. X to 9 is 1 inch, and 9 to 10 is 1£ inch. 
 
 X to Y is 1 J inch more than } waist (the extra J inch is for the seams of the V which is 
 taken out so as to avoid too great a curve on the side seam). 
 
 J to 1 1 is -i inch more than J seat. Square down from 11. 11 to 12 is § inch. 
 
 From 4 to 21 is 1 inch more than from E to 4. L to 13 is £ inch. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented from 12 through 7, 5 and T to 13. 
 
 3 to 5 and 5 to 16 is 1 inch more than the knee size, Y7\ inches altogether for this draft. 
 
 UtoTandT to 17 is 1 inch more than the small-of-knee, 14J inches altogether for this 
 draft. 
 
 N to L and 13 to 18 is 1 inch more than the calf, 16 inches altogether for this draft. 
 
 Shape the seat seam through X, W and S to 12, hollowing between X and \V, and 
 rounding out between W and S as represented. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from Y through 21, 16 and 17 to 18. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from 18 to 13. 
 
 Y to 20 is 2 inches. 
 
 Shape the top and the V as represented, making the V \ inch wide. 
 
 The width of the button stand is 1] inch, and the buttons are marked on it to correspond 
 with the buttonholes on the forepart. 
 
 The forepart may, of course, be cut the same at the top as for Diagram 45, and the 
 fall bearer and forepart waistband as for Diagram 38. 
 
 t 
 
 TO POCKET THE KNEE. 
 
 The forepart having been cut through as from T to 22 and 22 to 3, proceed as follows : 
 
 Diagram 48. — Pivot the forepart at 3. 
 
 Swing the lower part down until the cut opens 1 inch as from T to A. 
 
 Add for a seam from T and from A back as represented. 
 
 This gives the required amount for knee fullness (or pocket) from 22 to B. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 93 
 
 Diagram 48. 
 
94 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 COACHMAN'S DRESS BREECHES 
 
 DIAGRAM 49. 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 42 outside seam, | 35 waist, 14J knee, 
 
 32 inside seam, 39 seat, 13 small-of-knee, 
 
 22 thigh taken 4 inches below the fork. 
 The Forepart. — Square lines A 1 and A R. 
 
 15 calf, 
 1U ankle. 
 
 A to C is the difference between the outside length and the inside length, 10 inches for 
 this draft. 
 
 C to B is f inch more than one-half the inside length, 16 : f inches for this draft. 
 
 B to D is 2\ inches always. 
 
 B to K is 4 inches always. 
 
 K to 1 is 4i inches always. 
 
 C to E is \ seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D, B, K and 1 . 
 
 C to F is \ seat. 
 
 F to G is 1 inch always. 
 
 G to H is £ seat. 
 
 H to I is f inch (for dress) for sizes from 36 to 42 seat, inclusive, and F to J is the same. 
 
 A to O is \ seat. 
 
 O to P is \ waist. 
 
 P to Q is f inch always. 
 
 Q to R is J waist. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F. establishing S. 
 
 Shape the undress side from R through S to H as represented. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to J. 
 
 Shape the dress side from R to a trifle below I as represented. 
 
 Add \ inch at the top for turn-in as represented. 
 
 E to 2 is i inch. 
 
 Square down from H by 2 as represented, establishing 8 and T. 
 
 C to 13 is 4 inches. 
 
 Square across from 13, establishing 4. 
 
 T to M is \ inch. 
 
 M to U is one-third small-of-knee. 
 
 From 1 to N is \ inch more than from B to U. 
 
 Draw a straight line from N up through U, establishing 6 and 3. 
 
 6 to 7 is % inch more than one-third calf. 
 
 N to L is J inch more than one-third ankle. 
 
 Shape the undress side of the inside seam from Ft to T, swelling \ inch at the knee as 
 from 8 to 5, and from T through 7 to L as represented. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 95 
 
 h 24 
 
 Diagram 49. 
 
 N r 
 
96 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 Shape the dress side of the inside seam from I to about half-way to 5. 
 
 Shape the bottom from : ] inch below N to L as represented. 
 
 Shape the outside seam from Q through E to 3. 
 
 The top buttonhole is J inch above the cross line at the small-of-knee. 
 
 The first five buttonholes are § inch apart. The lowest buttonhole is § inch above the 
 bottom, and the other buttonholes are equally spaced. 
 
 The lower notches are 1 inch below the cross line at the knee, the upper notches are 3 
 inches above the line. 
 
 The Backpart. — Extend all the cross lines except at the bottom and calf. 
 
 1 to 9 is f inch. 
 
 Square both ways from 9, establishing 10. 
 
 6 to 1 1 is f inch. 
 
 Square out from 1 1 . 
 
 B to 12 is f inch. 
 
 Square in from 12. 
 
 W is half-way between O and R. 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through W. 
 
 W to X is J inch more than £ seat. 
 
 X to His 1 i inch. 
 
 X to Y is 1 inch more than 1 waist. 
 
 Y to 15 is If inch. 
 
 Shape the top as represented from 15 through 14. 
 
 J to 16 is J inch more than ^ seat. 
 
 Square down from 16. 
 
 16 to 17 is § inch. 
 
 Shape the seat seam through X, W and S to 17, hollowing as represented between X 
 and W, and rounding out between W and S. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented from 17 to 5, establishing 18. 
 
 E to 25 is 1 inch. 
 
 When stockinette or any other very elastic material is used, all the leg circumference 
 sizes are applied, net, as follows: 
 
 Erom the side seam of the forepart to 4 and from 18 to 19 is the thigh, 22 inches for this 
 draft. 
 
 From 3 to 5 and from 5 to 20 is the knee size, 141 inches for this draft. 
 
 From U to T and from T to 21 is the small-of-knee, 13 inches for this draft. 
 
 From 6 to 7 and from 7 to 22 is the calf, 15 inches for this draft. 
 
 Square down from 22 to establish 23. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from Y through 25, 19, 20, 21 and 22 to 23. 
 
 N to 24 is 1 inch. 
 
 Square up from 24. 
 
 Measure from N to L and from 10 to 23, and whatever the amount thus measured is in 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 97 
 
 excess of the ankle size reduce less two seams at the line squared up from 24 as represented, 
 and shape the bottom from a point | inch below 23 to 10. 
 
 If the material is non-elastic carry the outside scam h inch outside of 25 and 1 inch out- 
 side of 19, 20, 21, 22 and 23. 
 
 The lower knee notches are each : ] inch below the cross line at the knee, the uppet" 
 notches are 3 inches above the line. 
 
 Add 1] inch for the button stand, and mark for the buttons as represented. 
 
 The fall bearer is cut as shown by and explained for Diagram 33. If preferred the 
 fronts may be finished with a narrow fall as explained for riding breeches. 
 
98 
 
 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 PEAR=SHAPED GOLFING BREECHES 
 
 DIAGRAM 50. 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 42 outside length, 
 32 inside length, 
 
 3o waist, 
 38 seat, 
 
 15 knee, 
 
 13 small-of-knee, 
 
 14 calf. 
 
 The Forepart. — Square both ways from A. 
 
 A to C is the difference between the outside length and the inside length, 10 inches for 
 this draft. 
 
 C to B is o inch more than one-half the inside length. 
 
 B to D is 2\ inches always. 
 
 B to K is 4 inches always. 
 
 C to E is -J seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, D, B and K. 
 
 C to F is i seat. 
 
 F to G is 1 inch always. 
 
 G to H is ^ seat. 
 
 H to I is 4 inch (for dress) and F to J is the same. 
 
 A to O is J seat. 
 
 O to P is £ waist. 
 
 P to Q is 3 inch always. 
 
 Q to R is J waist. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, establishing S, and shape the undress side from R 
 through S to H as represented. 
 
 Draw a straight line from J through R, and shape the dress side to a trifle below I as 
 represented. 
 
 Oto 14 is If inch. 
 
 R to 15 is 1£ inch. 
 
 Shape the on-growing waistband as represented. 
 
 E to 4 is more or less according to taste or style. For this draft it is 1} inch. 
 
 E to 2 is | inch. 
 
 Square down from II by 2 as represented, establishing 8 and T. 
 
 Square down from T, establishing L. 
 
 To to M is J inch. 
 
 M to U is one-third small-of-knee. 
 
 K to N is s . inch more than B to U. 
 
 Draw a straight line from N up through U, establishing 3. 
 
 Shape the undress side of the inside seam from H to M as represented, swelling J inch 
 at the knee as from 8 to 5. 
 
 Shape the dress side of the inside seam from I to about half-way to 5. 
 
 Shape the bottom from } inch below N to L as represented. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 99 
 
 Diagram 50. 
 
100 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 Shape the outside seam from Q through 4 to 3 as represented. 
 
 The buttonholes are 1 £ inch apart. 
 
 The Backpart. — Extend all the cross lines. 
 
 J to 11 is -J inch more than <t seat. 
 
 Square down from 11. 
 
 11 to 12 is § inch. 
 
 L to 13 is \ inch. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented from 12 through 5 and T to 13. 
 
 W is half-way between O and R. 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through W. 
 
 W to X is \ seat. 
 
 X to 9 is 1 J inch. 
 
 X to Y is 1J inch more than \ waist. 
 
 Shape the seat seam as represented through X, W and S to 12, hollowing between X 
 and W, and rounding out between W and S. 
 
 4 to 21 is 1 in«h more than from E to 4. 
 
 3 to 5 and 5 to 16 is 1 inch more than the knee size, 16 inches altogether for this draft. 
 
 U to T and T to 17 is 1 inch more than the small-of-knee, 14 inches altogether for this 
 draft. 
 
 N to L and 13 to 18 is 1 inch more than the calf, 15 inches altogether for this draft. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from Y through 21, 16 and 17 to 18. 
 
 21 to 10 equals 4 to Q of the forepart. 
 
 10 to 20 is If inch. 
 
 Shape the on-growing waistband as represented from 20 to 9. 
 
 Shape the bottom as represented from \ inch below 18 to 13. 
 
 The V is \ inch wide at A. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 101 
 
 T 
 
 HE REASON THAT THE OPENNESS, OR LEG SPREAD, IS 
 NOT INCREASED FOR LARGE MEN, AND DECREASED 
 FOR SMALL ONES, IS THAT FOR BOTH THE 
 SPREAD IS ADAPTED TO THE DIAMETER OF 
 THE BODY OF THE HORSE FROM SIDE TO 
 SIDE, NOT TO THE NATURAL SPREAD 
 OF THE WEARER'S LEGS 
 
102 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 GOLFING OR CYCLING KNICKERBOCKERS 
 
 
 DIAGRAM 51. 
 
 
 
 THE MEASURES. 
 
 
 42 outside length, 
 
 34 waist, 
 
 13 J small-of-knee, 
 
 32 inside length, 
 
 38 seat, 
 
 14J calf. 
 
 The Forepart. — -Square both ways from A. 
 
 A to the point indicated by the pen is 2 j nc hes more than one-half the inside length, 18 
 inches altogether for this draft, and from this point to D is 2\ inches. 
 C to E is £ seat. 
 
 Square across from E, C, the point indicated by the pen, and D. 
 C to F is J seat. 
 F back to G is 1 inch always. 
 G to H is ^ seat. 
 
 H to I is % inch (for dress) and F to J is the same. 
 A to O is £ seat. 
 
 to Q is | inch more than \ waist. 
 Q to R is £ waist. 
 
 Q to 14 is If inch. 
 
 R to 15 is \\ inch. 
 
 Shape the on-growing waistband as represented. 
 
 Draw a straight line from R to F, and shape the undress side as represented from R 
 through S to H. 
 
 Draw a straight line from J up through R, and shape the dress side as represented to a 
 trifle below I. 
 
 V is half-way between C and F. 
 
 Square down from V, establishing P and Z. 
 
 Z to L is one-fourth bottom. 
 
 Z to N is one-fourth bottom. 
 
 Draw a straight line from H to L, establishing 1. 
 
 C to 4 is more or less according to taste or fashion. For this draft it is 1 inch. 
 
 Draw a straight line from 4 to N, establishing 2. 
 
 2 to 3 is | inch. 
 
 1 to 5 is f inch. 
 
 Sbape the undress side of the inside seam from H through 5 to L as represented. 
 Shape the dress side of the inside seam from I to about half-way to 5 as represented. 
 Shape the outside seam from Q through 4 and 3 to N as represented. 
 The Backpart. — Extend all the cross lines as represented. 
 F to 6 is \ inch more than \ seat. 
 Square down from 6. 
 
NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 103 
 
 Diagram 51. 
 
104 NEW STANDARD TROUSERS AND BREECHES SYSTEMS 
 
 6 to 7 is § inch. 
 
 W is half-way between O and R. 
 
 Draw a straight line from S up through W. 
 
 W to X is £ seat. 
 
 Shape the seat seam as represented from X through \V and S to 7. 
 
 5 to 8 is ^ inch. 
 
 L to 9 is J inch. 
 
 Shape the inside seam as represented from 7 through 8 to 9. 
 
 X to Y is 1 inch more than J waist. 
 
 4 to 21 is -| inch more than C to 4. 
 
 3 to 10 is h inch. 
 
 N to 11 is \ inch. 
 
 Shape the outside seam as represented from Y through 21 and 10 to 11. 
 
 21 to 19 equals 4 to Q of the forepart. 
 
 19 to 20 is 1| inch. 
 
 Shape the on-growing waistband as represented. 
 
 With the continuations a 2-inch slit is made in the forepart beginning 2 inches from N 
 as at 12, and extending to the knee line — to which point 10 of the cuff joins. 
 
 The bottom finish of the knickerbockers just drafted may be cither a cuff or a garter 
 and buckle. 
 
 The Cuff. — Square both ways from 1. 
 
 1 to 2 is J inch more than one-half small- of -knee. 
 
 1 to 3 is 4J inches. 
 Square both ways from 3. 
 
 3 to 4 is J inch more than one-half calf. 
 
 Draw a straight line from 2 to 4 and square in from 4 by the line just drawn to establish 5. 
 
 7 is half-way between 1 and 5. 
 3 to 6 equals 7 to 5. 
 
 2 to 8 is 1 inch for button stand, and 4 to 9 is the same. 
 1 to 10 equals 1 to 2, and 3 to 11 equals 3 to 4. 
 Shape as represented. 
 
 The Garter. — 1 to 2 is ] inch more thanthe small-of-knee. 
 
 1 to 3 and 2 to 4 are each 1 J inch. 
 
 2 to 5 and 4 to 6 are each 3 J inches. 
 
 Finish as represented, narrowing the end J inch on each side. 
 
 For either finish the knickerbockers may be cut from 1 to 2 inches wider at 
 
 THE BOTTOM THAN THE SMALL-OF-KNEE SIZE, AND THE SURPLUS FULLED IN TO THE CUFF OR 
 GARTER TO GIVE EXTRA KNEE POUCH. 
 
3 isoa