MBMaEMMMNMHnawaanHKM " / JjOOK "Si-*-* %x , g4 -O GopiglrtR 1 COPYRIGHT DEPOSSk SHORT RATIONS A German Mother, Who Has Given Her Seven Sons to the War. She and Her Three Grandchildren Were Trying to Live on Potatoes-all They Had. SHORT RATIONS AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN GERM4NY, 1915 . . . 1916 BY MADELEINE ZABRISKIE DOTY AUTHOR OF "SOCIETY'S MISFITS" ILLUSTRATED WITH PHOTOGRAPHS NEW YORK THE CENTURY CO. 1917 Copyright, 1917, by The Century Co. Published, March, 1917 MAR 14 1917 ©CI.A455887 TO MY FATHER WHO NEVER HELD ME BACK BUT EVER ENCOURAGED ME IN MY ADVENTURES PREFACE This book is a journal of my experiences in warring Europe. I have tried to set down sim- ply and honestly what I saw. It is the story of what happens at home when men go to war. It has been difficult to find a title that would cover such a range. But everywhere I traveled one fact obtruded itself. When the battle rages all forces are concentrated on destroying; man has no time to create. The doctrine of social wel- fare is temporarily extinguished. No thought can be given to the hungry, to the convict, to social evils, to education, to understanding the heart of a child. These divine causes are pushed aside. The country goes spiritually, as well as materially, bankrupt. There is a shortage all along the line. It is in this sense that I use the title " Short Rations." While the men at the front slaughter one an- other, at home the mothers and children, the sick, the aged, the prisoners, are starved spirit- ually, intellectually, and physically. Life be- xi xii PREFACE comes a fight for existence, a struggle for one's self and not for humanity. Through infinite suffering man has broken away from the old ideal which was " Concentrate on self and be a great person." He has come to see that a truer and finer ideal is " Forget self and give to humanity." Nations must learn this truth also ; not my country first, what can it grab, but what can it give. When that idealism is ac- cepted, wars will cease. " Love thy neighbor as thyself." It is an old doctrine, new only when applied by one nation to another. And to that nation which has sinned most, as to the greatest criminal, must we most freely open our hearts. In each case the need is great ; in neither case will punishment avail. Punish- ment fills both man and nation with hate and vengeance. But love remakes the world. Re- generation comes from within. Let our new faith be : "I dedicate myself, my home, and my country to every other nation ; my life, my love, my liberty will I share." CONTENTS PART I. CHAPTER PAGE I. Crossing the ocean in war time . 3 II. At the Hague 14 III. Under the lid in war-cursed Berlin 26 IV. London and the Suffragettes . . 42 V. Nursing the wounded in Paris . . 53 VI. Little Brother 68 PART II. I. The Scandinavian Countries . . 83 II. Hamburg under the hand of death 100 III. Life in Berlin 118 IV. The food riots and the potato line 136 V. Signs of unrest and rebellion . . 152 VI. A TOUR FOR JOURNALISTS PRISON CAMPS AND HOSPITALS .... 169 VII. Women factory workers . ... 190 VIII. Peace meetings in Munich . . . 207 IX. The escape from Germany . . . 228 x. a flying trip through france and England 245 XI. Die Mutter 265 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE A German mother who has given her seven sons to the war — Frontispiece ~ The Badge of Hate 2* The American Ambulance at Neuilly 21"' In 1915 one piece of bread was served in the restaurants in a paper envelope 28" A facsimile of a bread card used in 1916 .... 29 Map of the author's two trips 36 Zeni Peshkoff, adopted son of Maxim Gorki, who lost bis right arm 59 A wounded French soldier and his mother .... 59 A facsimile of the safe conduct given the author to the battlefield of the Marne 66" Facsimile of the author's passport with the German, French and British stamps 84" The Bismarck Denkmal 105^ German prisoners today plainly show signs of under feeding 125*' A facsimile of the handbill circulated in Berlin the evening the Deutschland reached Bremen for the first time . 160 ; The prison camp at Heidelberg for French, English and Russian officers 179' The sitting room in the prison camp, Heidelberg . . . 179 ' A facsimile of the luncheon menu card at the Hotel Mar- quardt, Stuttgart 193' Women factory workers » r . . . 213 ' Die Mutter f. tM. '.. . . 269 SHORT RATIONS PART I THE BADGE OF HATE A facsimile of a stamp used in the beginning of the war to stick on letters and packages. It was later prohibited. F SHORT RATIONS CHAPTER I CROSSING THE OCEAN IN WAR TIME OR eight months the war had raged. We in America found it hard to visualize. Only the people from Europe with their tales of blood- shed made it a reality. Women from all the bel- ligerent countries came to us. They implored America to bring back peace on earth and save their men. It was this cry stirred American women. A little group headed by Jane Addams resolved to hold a woman's international con- ference. The meeting place was to be The Hague. The women knew they couldn't stop the war, but they decided to register a protest against the slaughter of man and lay plans for a future permanent peace. To cross the ocean in war time is an undertak- ing. An ocean filled with battle-ships presents 3 SHORT RATIONS unknown dangers, but forty-three American women embarked on the adventure. The "Evening Post" asked me to go as its correspondent. I at once accepted. In five days I packed my bags, adjusted my affairs, and was on board the steamship Noordam. It was a warm spring day when our boat pulled from dock. A white flag bearing in letters of blue the word " Peace " floated from our mast- head. This made our ship the center of all eyes. Soon we had passed the Battery and the city grew dim in the distance. At the harbor en- trance were two American torpedo boats. It was the first intimation of war. We fell to talk- ing of submarines and the dangers ahead. A passing ship bound for New York from Rot- terdam saluted. Our little white flag fluttered gaily, in answer. Our hearts thrilled at the sight. We realized we had set forth on a mis- sion. Of the sixty-two first cabin passengers forty-four were women delegates to The Hague. It was a goodly company assembled from many States — Oregon, California, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, New Jer- sey, Washington, D. C, and New York. Though many had n't previously met, we were soon bound 4 CROSSING THE OCEAN IN WAR TIME together by a common cause. Outside there was a gray sky and calm sea. Inside there was equal peace and calm. Each morning we assembled to discuss history and diplomacy, while the evenings were devoted to personal reminiscences. Like the Canterbury Pilgrims of old, each told his tale. Bit by bit through the Pilgrims' tales personalities grew distinct. The two most striking were Jane Ad- dams and Mrs. Pethick Lawrence. They were totally unlike, but by very contrast vivified each other. One evening they had a debate, — " Is war ever justifiable? " was the subject. Miss Addams took the negative. Gentle, modest, clad in a dark silk dress, the light of her spirit shining in her tragic eyes, she seemed hardly of the earth. She pleaded for the sacredness of life and the policy of non-resistance. To turn from her to Mrs. Lawrence was to turn to a burning flame. The Englishwoman in her Oriental dress of red and green was all passion and fire. Every ges- ture had meaning. Spirit and body were one. She wanted to fight for peace ; would go singing to death to rid the world of war. Both women were inspired by the same ideal. But one looked at life as a saint; the other faced reality. One 5 SHORT RATIONS preached non-resistance; the other active resist- ance to war, believing that peace and liberty were dearer than life. Other members of the company were also dis- tinctive. The little telephone operator until the night of her story remained undiscovered. Then her fresh, vital personality burst upon us. Three years ago w T ith a handful of girls she had organ- ized a union, which now numbers ten thousand. In the early days the union won a fight for bet- ter conditions by arbitration. Out of that suc- cess sprang the powerful organization of to-day. If they could arbitrate, the telephone girls rea- soned, Europe ought also to be able to arbitrate, so they sent forth their cherished leader. She, they felt, might bring peace to earth. Each mem- ber taxed herself with sixty cents monthly to pay for the trip, and the little telephone operator set gaily forth. She had never traveled before. Each moment on the ocean was a revelation. She was always discovering new wonders. Then there was a poetess who had written a poem called " Motherhood " which had been published and widely circulated by the Carnegie Peace Founda- tion. There was a woman doctor, who told us of the diseases that follow in the wake of war. 6 CROSSING THE OCEAN IN WAR TIME There were three women lawyers, a Quaker preacher, numerous social workers, and several writers. Besides our little company, there were seven- teen other passengers, among them a small Ger- man girl of nineteen. She was a problem. Pretty, frivolous, high-heeled and flirtatious, she was on her way to her lover, a young German of- ficer. We held lengthy consultations over her case. We had all seen " War Brides." This child must be made to realize that woman must not propagate unless man promises there shall be no more war. Unfortunately most of us were spinsters. Our passionate plea for motherhood didn't have a proper setting. W r e did n't make a dent in this young female of the species. We searched for a copy of " War Brides," in vain. But had we found it she would not have read it. She flirted with every man on board and steered her course among us all. The days glided swiftly by, calm and unevent- ful. Life on shipboard became a habit. We seemed to have been always journeying forth. But on the eighth day we reached the danger zone. At night our ship was brightly lighted. 7 SHORT RATIONS On each side of the boat in large letters of elec- tricity was the ship's name. The eighth night was one of suspense and excitement. Some hud- dled together and talked far into the night, but Miss Addams went serenely to bed. My room- mate got down the life preservers — she wished she could foresee events, for if we were to be blown up, she wanted to dress for the part. In the end she wore her best underclothing and silk stockings to bed. Morning came and we slowly crept toward the coast. It was a gray day and we saw the land indistinctly. Small sailing ves- sels were about us and seagulls hovered over- head. Once we slowed down and steered out of our course. Two small boats ahead of us with a net between them were dragging the sea for mines. On the top deck, the life-boats had been stripped of canvas and put in readiness and the deck rails removed. That night at dinner Miss Addams suggested an evening of entertainment to divert us. To- ward the close of the program the boat suddenly stopped. The audience grew restless. There was a shrill whistle and sound of running feet. We rushed for the deck. The red and white light of a small boat appeared at the ship's side. CROSSING THE OCEAN IN WAR TIME She made fast to our steamer. Three English officers climbed the rope ladder and rushed to the captain's room. All was commotion and excitement. We ran from one side of the steamer to the other. No one knew what was happening. We gazed at the little boat. The men on board her hurried madly about. They pulled out a box. In it was ammunition. Then a small cannon was uncov- ered, and directed toward us. It was quickly loaded and the men stood ready, ammunition in hand. Now two other small boats appeared. They also came close to the steamer and remained alongside. We were being surrounded. Just as suspense grew intolerable, the officers who boarded us came from the bridge. They were leading two captives. Around each was tied a rope. Then we knew what had happened. Two German stowaways had been caught and taken prisoners. As the captives descended the rope ladder, one of them raised his cap high above his head and shouted, " Hoch der Kaiser ! Vater- land fiber alles ! " We leaned over the ship's rail in the flickering light. We saw the prisoners on the deck of the small boat below. Their hands were held high above their heads, while the Eng- 9 SHORT RATIONS lish soldiers searched them. The captors evi- dently admired the bravery of their captives. They treated them considerately. Next morning we were steaming up the Eng- lish Channel, and at eight were opposite Dover. Here we anchored and were boarded for inspec- tion. Only the men's passports were examined. All day our boat was at a standstill and we sat or walked idly about the decks. Torpedo boats moved to and fro. A few steamers were seen at anchor. One, a South American steamer, was only a few rods away. We exchanged greeting with the passengers. Late in the after- noon we crowded on deck to see a round black speck in the air. It moved toward the French coast. As it came nearer we saw it was an air- ship. It looked like a wicked submarine which had taken to flight. Presently it retook its course to the English coast. Next morning we were still at anchor. We grew restless. It dawned on us we might be here for days. We gradually realized we must protest, if we would move. We sought out the captain. He was noncommittal. We asked for permission to send messages ashore. He doubted if it could be managed. We were veritable pris- 10 CROSSING THE OCEAN IN WAR TIME oners. But in the afternoon the English boat again came to us. We lay siege to the British officer. We wrote out a telegram to our Ameri- can ambassador at London, imploring his aid. The English officer agreed to send it. Now came hours of weary waiting. Our unity and enthu- siasm vanished. The ship was the same, the peo- ple the same, but we were thwarted in our pur- pose. Making us prisoners made us ugly. Dissensions grew in our midst. The conserva- tives did not wish to be hasty, they would fold hands and patiently trust to the authorities, but the rebel spirits were not to be quelled. Nothing was ever gained save through struggle. They brought pressure to bear on the captain and sent surreptitious messages ashore by friendly sail- boats. The days dragged on, Saturday, Sunday, Monday. All sorts of rumors were afloat. One was that a battle was raging in the North Sea; another that the trouble lay with our cargo — that we were women sitting on a load of am- munition! A third that England was holding us up because we were a band of women with peaceful intentions. We secured a newspaper from a passing sail- boat. We found that England had stopped all 11 SHOET RATIONS channel steamers. The delegation of women from England was not to be allowed to cross to The Hague. The papers ridiculed the women; they call them " peacettes " bound for a tea party at The Hague. But, as usual, opposition only strengthened the cause. We grew fearless and united. With Miss Addams's cooperation, we besieged the captain and sent innumerable tele- grams. At length our distress calls were an- swered. A British boat dashed up. It bore a message from the American ambassador. We gathered in an expectant circle, but our faces grew tragic as Miss Addams read : " The British authorities have completely suspended traffic with Holland for the present. No ships are leav- ing for Dutch ports. I greatly regret it is be- yond my power to aid you in the matter. Even American diplomatic officers may not pass." We were foiled. It was Monday, and Tuesday the conference was to begin. But just as the rebel spirits were on the eve of a revolution we heard a shrill whistle. Another little tug dashed to our ship's side. An officer boarded our boat. A few seconds later a steward rushed from the bridge. " We are off ! " he cried ; " the clearance papers have come." A little cheer goes up from 12 CROSSING THE OCEAN IN WAR TIME our midst. We dance about the deck. We played tag and ran three-legged races to let off steam. Of course we attributed our good fortune to the American ambassador, in spite of his telegram. But again there was delay. Our steamer whistled vainly for a pilot. There was none to be had. Our captain was given a map of the mine- strewn North Sea. He was told he might pro- ceed, but at his own risk. He decided to wait until morning. Many of us were up early. The mines loomed large. Our eyes swept the horizon for warships and submarines, but our ship moved quietly forward without adventure. Toward noon we sighted the Hook of Holland. Soon we were steaming up the long waterway. It was a warm spring day. The land was gay with tulips. The flat green meadows stretched out peacefully in the golden sunlight. Here there was no sign of war. Our dangers were passed. Our first battle had been won. CHAPTEK II AT THE HAGUE IT was six p.m. when we left our boat. For sev- eral hours she had been steaming up the nar- row waterway to Botterdam, while the peace and quiet of Holland descended upon us. On pass- ing barges Dutch families gazed at us wonder- ingly. The man of the family, pipe in mouth, sprawled on deck, and the kiddies dangled their feet in the water. The song of birds filled the air and buds were bursting on every tree. The sky was the softest blue. New York, with its bustle and roar, seemed nearer war than this lazy land of fresh spring sweetness. But we had no time for loitering. We dashed from the ship to the railroad station. There was just two hours before the conference at eight. When we reached The Hague we found wild confusion. That city was full of Belgian refu- gees. There were few vacancies at hotels. At every street corner one encountered cabs filled with women delegates madly driving from one 14 AT THE HAGUE hotel to another. Eventually we all found shel- ter, but there was no time for dinner. We set off immediately for the great meeting hall. When we arrived an important looking official waved us sternly back. We had n't stopped for tickets. But we stood our ground and shouted to a Dutch woman beyond the entrance, " We are the Americans." Instantly she was upon us. " Oh," she cried, as she grasped our hands, " I 'm so glad you 're alive and not blown up, or at the bottom of the sea. We didn't know what had happened." Then she led us triumphantly inside. It was a gay, if hungry, American delegation that burst upon the meeting. As Jane Addams mounted the platform and the audience realized we had come, they broke into tumultuous ap- plause. The place was crowded. People stood everywhere. Seventeen women sat on the plat- form, representing many different nations. The opening address was made by a Hollander, and the first speech delivered by a German. From the beginning the object of the congress was made plain. It was not to stop war, but to protest against war and to lay plans for future peace. For the first time in history, a band of 15 SHORT RATIONS women from belligerent and neutral nations had organized. They had risen above war's hatred and grasped hands, as women and mothers. We went back that night to our scattered dwellings full of fine courage. The moon shone down upon us. The canals shimmered in the moonlight. The Hague seemed a haven of rest and strength. But next morning we saw a sight that made war a reality. On the green plain in front of the assembly hall thousands of young men were being drilled. All Holland was mobil- izing. While a thousand women in a big hall were discussing ways to save life, across the street thousands of men were learning how to take life. It was a mixed company who attended the con- ference. The diversity was not in ideas, but in careers and temperaments. There were rich and poor, the cold reserved people of the North, and the fiery passionate people of the South. There were women lawyers and women dress- makers, artists and stenographers, reformers and journalists, and many just plain mothers. These women had come together in spite of difficulties over mine-strewn seas and past frontier searches. Perhaps the Belgian delegates made the most 16 AT THE HAGUE dramatic group. Their path had bristled with difficulties. They had had to get passports from the enemy. The first German appealed to was obdurate, but an official higher up was sought. The sturdy, determined, and energetic Made- moiselle Hammer would not be denied. "We wish to attend a women's congress. It is im- portant ; you must let us pass," is what she said. Her courage won the day. But the difficulties were not over. The Belgian train service was inadequate. The first of the journey had to be made in a borrowed automobile. After a while this was stopped, then the women descended and marched for two hours with heavy suitcases. Finally the frontier was reached. Then came a search. At last after weary hours of waiting and travel the Belgians arrived triumphant. The word that they were in the hall spread like wild fire. They were invited to the platform. Up they went to fill the vacant chairs next to the German delegation. The house rose in excite- ment. Then it broke into frantic applause. Handkerchiefs and hats were waved madly and the air was filled with cries of " Bravo." For in spite of our diversity, one bond held all together — the belief in the sacredness of life. 17 SHORT RATIONS Under the inspiration of a great ideal, under Miss Addams's gentle and wise guidance, under the soft beauty of Holland, our differing per- sonalities and nationalities intermingled. Each morning we worked together ; each afternoon we talked and walked and played together and each evening we heard one another speak. And every day incidents occurred which were pregnant with meaning. On one occasion Mr. and Mrs. Pethick Lawrence of England invited Dr. Augsburg and Friiulein Heyman of Germany to dine. A gasp went 'round the dining-room as this little group entered. I w T as one of the party and heard what was said. " We ought, of course, to get out of Belgium," said the Germans, "but then when you judge us, remember that England is in many places she ought not to be." "Yes," said the Englishman and woman, "there is, for instance, the Rock of Gibraltar. We have no right there. Some day that rock must go back to its rightful owners." For hours those amazing people talked in great friendli- ness. They readjusted the world. They did it on the basis of justice, instead of diplomacy. At the close of the evening the Englishman es- corted the German ladies to their car and gaily AT THE HAGUE waved his liat in farewell. Such examples had their effect. Soon each was trying to outdo the other in tolerance. This did not mean a lack of sympathy for the Allies — on the contrary. For instance, Hol- land's position was thus stated by a little Dutch woman : " When the war broke out, our hearts were with Germany. We have German blood in our veins. The Queen's husband is a German, and the mouth of the Ehine lies in our land. But after a while a change came. Belgian refugees poured into our land. My town of six thousand inhabitants had four hundred to care for. I had five of them in my house. They told tales. We came to dread German autoc- racy and militarism. We are a free people. We believe in democracy. Before the war three hundred thousand men and women signed a petition for woman suffrage. That 's a big num- ber for this little land. Gradually the Queen's attitude has changed in spite of her German husband. Her ministers have made her fear Germany. If Holland went to war to-day it would be with the Allies. We would rather risk English domination than endure German mili- tarism." So spoke this gray-haired, middle-aged 19, . SHORT RATIONS Dutchwoman. Then she added, gazing dreamily at her peaceful land : " Of course, if trouble came, we could open our dikes. But we don't w T ant war. Recently there was a call for a hundred thousand additional volunteers. Only ninety men from the big city of Amsterdam re- sponded. No — Holland does n't want war." Such personal talks were as illuminating as the congress, and as the days glided by we grew ever closer together. The beauty of Holland made us mellow. Overhead the sky was always blue ; gay tulips filled the land with color ; the air was fragrant with the scent of flowers. Outer dissimilarities merged in the universal. The ties of love, motherhood, and future welfare held. Only once was the note of nationalism struck as against internationalism. The program from the beginning had centered on plans for future peace. All had agreed that small nations must be insured their integrity, that there must be freedom of the seas, that trade must be free to all, that future disputes must be settled by some kind of international cooperation and agreement. On these matters there was perfect accord — accord in spite of difference in language, for 20 ■ '■ 1 ' : ? I ' '" * *" THE AMERICAN AMBULANCE AT NEUILLY The Author Is the Nurse in the Rear AT THE HAGUE every speech had to be put into three tongues — French, English, and German. It was not until the war itself was discussed that there came a rift. That the war should be discussed was in- evitable. Day by day, as we sat side by side, we had learned of the suffering in war-ridden lands. Black-clad wives had made speeches. Sorrowing mothers had shown their agony. The battle-field became a reality, covered with dead and dying sons and husbands. These glimpses of tragedy wrung our hearts. We ceased to be enemies or friends. We were just women. All precon- ceived plans vanished. There grew an urgent need to do something. It was then the following motion was presented : " Be it resolved that this congress urge the governments of the world to put an end to bloodshed and begin negotiations for peace.." On the instant came that note of nationalism. The Belgian delegation rose to its feet. W T hat did peace mean? Surely not that the Belgians would be a subject race. Out from their tortured hearts came the cry, " Je suis Beige avant tout" Sympathy throbbed in our hearts. Eagerly we explained. A peace founded on jus- tice was our dream. " Would we," they asked, " insert the word just before ' peace '? " Gladly 23 SHOET RATIONS the suggestion was accepted. Both England and Germany voted for the amendment. Such were the women who made up the con- gress. Such were the things they said. But as the days came for departure, a restlessness grew visible. The suffering of war had laid its hold on the delegates. They wanted something more than mere resolutions — they wanted immediate action. To go quietly home had become im- possible. Then a member rose to her feet. " We can't stop here," she begged. " We have demonstrated our solidarity, but there is some- thing greater. We must demonstrate that moral courage is greater than physical. We must have courage to call for the end of war now. Courage to think of no one but the dying men on the bat- tle-field, who turn their glazed eyes to us seeking help. Courage to say not one more shall be killed. Courage to say we can't wait — we must have peace now. Courage to carry this demand personally from nation to nation." This was her plea. Sobs broke from grief-stricken moth- ers. Tears streamed down faces. Women were stirred past utterance. No vote was needed to carry this motion. The audience rose as one. So ended the congress, but these meetings were 24 AT THE HAGUE but the preliminary steps. In a few days Jane Addams with two other women started on her pilgrimage. She was to bear the women's mes- sage from nation to nation. What effect this meeting of women will have, who can tell? Idealistic, impractical, it may have been, but little it was not. While war rages, force reigns on earth and we forget it is ideas that made that force possible. But ideas can also create good-will. No thought sent out into the world dies. The future lies in our hands. It is for us to mold it. 25 CHAPTER III UNDER THE LID IN WAR-CURSED BERLIN June, 1915. ^ON'T go," said the American embassy at The Hague. " Americans are not wanted. You may get into trouble." I packed my bag with beating heart. Go I would — for why live unless adventure? But I spoke no German. How could it be managed? My head was full of tales of hardship and im- prisonment. The Lusitania had just been sunk. I had never been to Germany. Berlin was a strange city. I pinned my little American flag and my Hague Peace Congress badge on the lapel of my coat. My passport I tucked in my pocket. With a small hand-bag and no printed or written word I started forth. Fortunately a Hungarian newspaperwoman whom I had met, traveled by the same train. We were an ill-assorted pair — she, petite and 26 WAR-CURSED BERLIN feminine and full of gay, light humor ; I, serious, clad in business clothes with many capacious pockets. " Mon maH" she called me. "Ma femme " proved a very useful person. She spoke five languages. Born in Russia with French an- cestors, living in Paris, and married to a Hun- garian, her heart was with the Allies. Life in Budapest was difficult. She dreaded return. But her glib German tongue and Hungarian marriage made her persona grata in Germany. Her flirtation with the passport officials at the frontier let us through with smiles and an invi- tation to wait over a train. Before the border was reached, I had hidden my American flag. It was not wise to speak English. This made me very helpless. I per- suaded my companion to stop off with me in Berlin. It was a long, tedious dav's journey. The German pasture lands were empty — no people, men or women, anywhere, and no cattle. But it was Sunday. Perhaps that was the reason. When we had secured rooms at a hotel we started forth to see the city. A passing throng filled the Friedrichstrasse, but half were sol- diers. Every fifth person was in mourning or 27 SHORT RATIONS wore a black band upon the sleeve. The faces in the electric light looked pale and tense. There was much talk, but no laughter. )far gegen Jlkgabe dst In 1915 one piece of bread was served in the restaurants in a paper envelope marked as above. Every now and then one caught the word Lusi- tania. Only the day before the steamship had been sunk. I clung to my companion. We talked in whis- pers. Once or twice an English word between us caught the ear of a passer-by, who turned, flushed and angry, to glare upon me. I soon 28 WAR-CURSED BERLIN ceased speaking. In the restaurant I made wild guesses and pointed at dishes on the menu and uttered no sound. I felt as I had during my ^k) /Tagesbrotkar te Brot, Zwieback Oder mlt He? e hergestellter Kuchen darf nur gegen Vorlegpo* der Karte us sprechender ' nommen werden. Name d@s Qasthauses; 53w^ Ushof - * QmscneJns ent- UnverkSufHch. 1 /^^K^\ Tag der Geltung: Rackseitebeachteat ^gg^-^pMllg; -- 25 g Brot A facsimile of a bread card used in 1916. Two of the little checks secured one roll. voluntary week in prison, when under the hos- tile and unfriendly eyes of the matrons. The hotel had given us " bread-cards." With these we secured some black and sour-tasting 29 SHOBT KATIONS bread, done up in sealed paper packages. Un- der her breath my companion confided that Hun- gary was worse off than Germany. Hungary was nearly breadless. Germany had bought Hungary's flour supply. "A fine ally, Germany," continued my com- panion, " little she cares for us. She does n't even trust us. Every letter mailed in Berlin to Budapest is opened and read; Germany is won- derful, but I hate the people." Next morning we started out to find a place where English was tolerated, for my companion could not stay on. We hunted up some German- Americans who had invited American women peace delegates to come to Berlin. Their hos- pitality was boundless. I was to be a guest and passed from hand to hand. I saw my freedom vanishing, but was powerless. The German-Americans had planned the con- version of every American. I was seized upon as the missionary seizes the cannibal. I tried to extricate myself. Bitter little taunts were thrust at me. Did I fear starvation, or the bar- barians? Eventually I capitulated. I was to have one more night at the hotel with my gay friend before her departure. 30 WAR-CURSED BERLIN That night we went to the Winter Garden. The place was filled with soldiers. One feature of the performance was a series of living tableaux depicting war. They were intended to inspire wild patriotism. But the soldiers were silent; only a mild ap- plause greeted the effort. One scene, symbolic of stupendous heroism — the last soldier firing the last shot — was received in grim silence. All Berlin is grim and tense. People pass and repass on the street. The shops are open, life goes on. But there is no genial friendliness, no lingering over a glass of beer, no bit of gay song. Everywhere there are gray, dusty, and worn uni- forms. When a troop of soldiers pass, their faces are pale, their feet drag. The goose-step has vanished. With the departure of my companion, I settled down in a German home, a modest menage, but every detail perfect. All Germany runs without friction. My host is a university professor, his wife an American. They are all hospitality, but their zealousness torments me. I am the heathen whose soul must be saved. From the day of my arrival to the moment of 31 SHORT RATIONS my departure, we have but one topic of conver- sation — Germany's virtues and America's sins. A great pity seizes me for this tragic couple. Their thin, pallid faces bespeak wracked nerves and tortured souls. Under the domination of a Government they adore, they dare not criticize. To question would be to shatter their world. German culture, German art, the Government, Bismarck, the Kaiser, the invasion of Belgium, the sinking of the Lusitania — in all things Ger- many is wisdom and righteousness. Surrounded by enemies, wicked monsters, Germany, the per- fect, is fighting for its life. Better a thousand times that the Lusitania be sunk and Americans killed than let American bullets reach the Allies to inflict death on German soldiers. "American bullets" — hourly the phrase is flung in my face. My protest that as a peace delegate I am fight- ing for the prohibition of traffic in arms and the limitation of their manufacture to the Govern- ment, brings no relief. Upon some one must the pent-up fury and hate for despicable America be poured ! I feel like a drowning man being slowly pressed down, down, under the waves. But pity for this 32 WAR-CURSED BERLIN tragic couple gives me patience. Behind the os- tentatious display of bread and the sneering al- lusions to " starvation " and " barbarity," I see fear and bitterness bred of fear. The man is forty and frail. Yet in a few days he must report for duty to the army. A question and a dread has crept into the heart of the Ger- man people: " What if we should not win? " The grain supplies are running low. Not only bread, but fodder for the animals, is lacking. The cattle are being killed and put in cold stor- age to save the expense of feeding. The few cab horses in Berlin fall in the street from hunger. In all trains are printed the following " Ten Commandments " : (1.) Don't eat more than necessary. Don't eat between meals. (2.) Consider bread sacred. Use every little piece. Dry bread makes good soup. (3.) Be economical with butter and fat. Use jam instead of butter. Most of the fat we get from abroad. (4.) Use milk and cheese. (5.) Use much sugar. Sugar is nourishing. (6.) Boil potatoes with the skins on; then nothing is lost in peeling. (7.) Drink less beer and alcohol; then the supply of rye from which these are made will be greater. (8.) Eat vegetables and fruit. Plant vegetables in every 33 SHOBT EATIONS little piece of earth. Be economical with preserved vege- tables. (9.) Gather all you don't eat for the animals. (10.) Cook with gas and coke. The ashes from coke make good fertilizer. Moral — Obey these ten commandments and economize for the Fatherland. The rich must also follow these command- ments. With the fresh crops has come renewed strength. But when the fall comes, what is to be done? There is no longer a canning industry, for there is no tin. In such an atmosphere of depression and sup- pression my free American spirit suffocates. I plan an escape. Somewhere in Berlin are free, fearless souls. These I must find. My hosts fear to have me venture out alone. One of the American peace delegates was driven by an angry mob from a tram car for speaking English. ' I take my map and study it. I have the ad- dresses of some Social Democrats. How get to them? My hosts do not tolerate such people. Then I remember the American embassy and a young man friend. I plead a luncheon en- gagement. This seems safe, and in a cab, un- accompanied, I escape. To my countryman I ex- plain my predicament. All absences are to be accounted for by him. 34 WAR-CURSED BERLIN Then alone, map in hand, I start out. I walk many weary blocks slinking along side streets and avoid the complications of tram-car conver- sations. I seem to be living in the days of con- spiracies and dime novels. And truly ,1 am, for day by day the plot thickens. I am received with open arms by the rebel women, and at once nick-named the " criminal." In them I find the Germans I sought. Free, fear- less people, ichose love for the Fatherland is so great that they dare protest! But these women are momentarily in danger. Their gatherings are secret. We meet in out-of- the-way places. I find that my telephone mes- sages are intercepted; that a perfectly harmless letter is never delivered. I am watched. It is hard to believe. Surely I have dropped back into the Middle Ages. I have to pinch myself to realize I am an American, living in the twen- tieth century. Such innocent affairs, these clandestine meet- ings. Mere discussion of ways to protest against war and work for peace. True, we denounce the invasion of Belgium, declare that Germany be- gan the war, and speak with loathing of the mili- tarist spirit. But what American doesn't? 35 SHOET BATIONS The most revolutionary talk is uttered by a gray- haired woman, the mother of grown children. A burning flame, this woman; her face stamped with world suffering, her eyes the tragic eyes of a Jane Addams. In a secluded corner of a res- taurant she whispers the great heresy : " Germany's salvation lies in Germany's de- feat. If Germany wins when so many of her progressive young men have been slain, the peo- ple will be crushed in the grip of the mailed fist." To this woman, democracy is greater than any national triumph. With her I discussed the col- lapse of the Social Democrats in the hour of need, the victory of nationalism over interna- tionalism. She attributes it to military train- ing. During man's period of military service he becomes a Thing. Automatically, he acquires habits of obedience, is reduced to an unquestion- ing machine. Mechanically, when the call came, the Social Democrats fell into line with the others. But with time has come thought, and knowl- edge; knowledge that in the first instance Ger- many's war w T as not one of self-defense. But it is now too late to rebel. Most of the Social 36 WAR-CURSED BERLIN Democrats are at the front. From month to month they have put off protest as unwise. Only Liebknecht has made himself heard. Now he has been caught up in the iron hand and sent out to battle. But women escaped the spell of militarism. While the Government rejoiced at the submission of its Socialist men, the women grew active. Organizing a party of their own they fought bravely. Last fall Rosa Luxembourg dashed into the street and addressed a regiment of soldiers. " Don't go to war, don't shoot your brothers ! " she cried. For this offense she was sent to prison for a year. To-day she lies in solitary confinement. But her suffering only inspired the others. In the month of March seven hundred and fifty w r omen walked to the Reichstag. At the en- trance they halted. As the members entered they shouted: "We will have no more war. We will have peace ! " Quickly the police dispersed them, and the order went forth that no newspaper print one word about the protest. 37 SHORT RATIONS Still the women work on. On the eighth of April an International Socialist Woman's Con- gress was held at Berne, Switzerland. Ten na- tions were represented, including all the bel- ligerents. The task of peace propaganda in Germany is gigantic. Neither by letter nor by press can news be spread. Both are censored. The work must be carried on by spoken word, passed from mouth to mouth. The courage of the little band of women I had met was stupendous. Through them I learned to love Germany. My life in Berlin was a double one. I ate and slept and was unregenerate in one part of town, and really lived only when I escaped from " respectability," and, strange contradiction of terms, became — a " criminal " fighting for peace ! But wherever I was, one fact grew omnipres- ent, the magnificent organization of Germany. Here lay the country's power and her weakness. Her power because it made Germany a solid unit. There were no weak links in the chain. Her weakness because it robbed her people of individuality, made them cogs in a machine. Even in the midst of war Germany is superbly run. The lawns are weedless, the flower-beds 38 WAK-CURSED BERLIN wonderful. The streets are clean. The tasks the able-bodied men left are performed by women, children, and old men. Nothing is neg- lected. I went through Berlin's biggest hos- pital. It was marvelous. There was every apparatus that mind can conceive, or science in- vent. The building was beautiful, the lawns gay with jonquils and tulips. Little portable houses had been erected to care for the wounded. Sev- enteen of the staff's doctors have gone to the front, but seventeen women physicians have taken their places. Everything is as before. Ger- many's discipline is perfect. The German peo- ple do not reason and wonder why, for them there is only to do and die. Everywhere you feel the relentlessness of force and the power of or- ganization. As I walked through the Thiergarten one after- noon, I became conscious of a great rushing buzz- ing noise. Directly over my head and quite low was a great Zeppelin. I thanked heaven I was in Berlin and not Paris. The Germans are very busy with their Zeppelins. Just outside Berlin is a little wooden city, built to give airships prac- tice in hurling bombs. Men toiling for years have erected wonder-cities like Berlin, and now 39 SHORT RATIONS other men are practising day and night how to destroy such a city in a day. What a travesty ! It is common talk in Germany that they have at last discovered a bomb that, once ignited, cannot be put out by water. If so, heaven help us ! For Germany will never give in. She will fight to her last man. If pushed to the wall, all the bitterness and fear that have crept into the nation will be directed toward a gigantic effort to blow up the world. Germany no longer cares whom she hurts — like an unloved child at bay, she means to smash and kill. The pity of it! Never was there a more generous, soft-hearted, kindly people. Germany, the land of the Christ- mas-tree, and folk songs, and fireside, and gay childish laughter, turned into a relentless fight- ing machine! But each individual is merely a cog firmly fixed in the national machine, and will go on obediently as long as the ruling power turns the crank. It was with infinite relief that I made my de- parture one morning. The tragedy of Germany had eaten into my soul. As I waited on the plat- form for my train, carloads of soldiers came and went. One great trainful paused for some moments 40 WAR-CURSED BERLIN while tlie men drank coffee. A great desire seized me to call out to these men, to beg them not to go. Then I remembered Rosa Luxem- bourg, realized my impotence, knew I could ac- complish nothing, and resolutely turned my back. Then my train came, and I sped on into Hol- land. Suddenly life changed. I could speak and smile. Friendly eyes greeted me. I was no longer an outcast. From the car window I saw a subtle change had taken place in the landscape. In Germany there were no cattle in the pastures, and a few women tilled the ground. Now the meadows were full of sleek, fat cows. The peas- ants in the fields were singing. As we steamed through little cities all was bustle and activity. The horses looked well fed. People sat leisurely in front of cafes drinking beer. Normal life had come again. Vividly it came to me that Ger- many is being grievously hurt. 41 CHAPTER IV LONDON AND THE SUFFRAGETTES July and August, 1915. RQSSING the Channel in war time has drawbacks. The only available boat from Holland to England was small and tossed vio- lently. First-, second-, and third-class passen- gers mingled together on deck and were jointly ill. German aeroplanes flew over our heads as we left Flushing and filled us with apprehension. Toward late afternoon we sighted the English coast. I had come from Germany. My bag and trunk were full of journalist's notes. Would the English officials detain me? But my Amer- ican passport and my English-speaking tongue won favor. In Germany I had felt an outcast, in England I became part of the population. I took train from Tilbury to London. Printed notices greeted one in every carriage. tl Passen- gers will lower shades after dark, as any light will aid enemy Zeppelins ! " It was nine o'clock 42 LONDON AND THE SUFFRAGETTES when I reached London. A blackness, like a dense fog, enveloped the city. Overhead the stars shone, but underfoot only a thin yellow lane of light from shaded street lamps illumined the road. London at night had dropped back centuries. It was the London of Shakespeare. One would not have been surprised to be halted with the cry, " Who goes there? " When I reached my destination, I saw large wooden boxes filled with sand, standing on each landing. Over each box was a notice, " Use the sand to extinguish fire in case of falling bombs." Such is London at night, but daylight tells an- other story. I am awakened by a cheerful band. London outwardly has the appearance of a city on a holiday. Smiling, ruddy soldiers tramp up and down the street. Flags float from nearly every building. A little cockney urchin, as she hurries after a gay procession, remarks : " Ain't London grand these days ! It 's like being at the seashore all the time." Attractive-looking young women and men in khaki stand on the street corners, soliciting re- cruits. Gaudy posters, urgent appeals to the manhood of the country, decorate every house, fence, and taxi. The glory of the English army, 43 SHORT EATIONS the joy of enlistment, is told in picture and story. Camp life on wind-swept hills, with good food and exercise and twenty-one shillings a week for wife and child, say the posters, is to be had for the asking. The stay-at-home begins to feel he is missing a great adventure. The danger of war is mini- mized. It is pointed out it is dangerous to live in London. One poster with a picture of a Zep- pelin poised over defenseless London reads, " Better face bullets at the front, than a bomb at home." Securing an army by advertising is costly, but volunteer recruits make good soldiers. The English Tommy goes, willing and smiling, to battle. This kind of soldier is hard to beat. England lacks not in fighting-men, but in muni- tion. The Government may be running into bankruptcy, but the people are thriving. The almshouses are emptying. Work can be had. The police courts are almost idle. Never was London so crowded. There are few private au- tomobiles, but many taxis and motor-cycles. To cross the street is hazardous. Traffic is often blocked. Money flows freely. Prices are high, but there is little unemployment. 44 LONDON AND THE SUFFEAGETTES Men go to the front and women fill vacant places. Soldiers' wives can pay rent and buy clothes. Women occuping men's places spend twice what they did formerly. Girls run ele- vators, punch tickets, and act as post-office clerks. Outside one store a girl in high boots and rubber hat and coat calls taxis. Poverty has n't disappeared, but poverty is on the decrease. War has fallen heaviest on the middle class, the employers, the suppliers of lux- uries, the barristers. Hotels, hairdressing par- lors, and tourist agencies suffer. England's richest and poorest are dying at the front, but the stay-at-home wage-earner spends his money and prospers. The Government has entered into many social- istic ventures ; it runs the railroads and will soon control the coal mines; it settles labor disputes and supervises the saloon. Drunkenness is de- creasing. Measures have been passed in a day under war pressure that conservative England would have fought over for years. " We '11 change back after the war," is the comment. England is learning through war that men are as valuable as property and must be fed and clothed. Nor is this the only lesson. Count- 45 SHOET RATIONS esses and duchesses daily turn over their auto- mobiles to wounded soldiers. Classes mix, bar- riers fall. But the day of voluntary service and idealism is passing — the cabinet begins to call for conscription. The National Registration Act has been passed. Newspapers and cabinet dwell on the selfish- ness of the working-man. The worker must be taught to take war seriously. He must be made to bleed and die for the country. The Government's newest ally is Mrs. Pank- hurst and a portion of the militant suffragettes. One day as I passed Trafalgar Square it was crowded. Mrs. Drummond from the foot of the monument was pleading for volunteers and mu- nition workers. "We have given up our fight for the vote; we think only of our country. There is a time for everything ; to-day is the time for sacrifices. You must be content with half- pay. There must be no strikes. You must suf- fer for England." This in substance is her speech. The crowd moves uneasily. Occasion- ally there is half-hearted applause, but many faces express mute protest. These suffragettes have betrayed the woman's cause. Formerly they defended the down-trod- 46 LONDON AND THE SUFFRAGETTES den, now they side with autocracy, hoping so to win the vote after the war. Not content with speaking, Mrs. Pankhurst organized a woman's procession. Every newspaper advertised the event. One daily, which formerly scorned suf- frage, gave a page to the cause. There was a drizzling rain the day of the procession. I stood on the curbstone to watch it pass. For twenty- eight minutes a stream of women four abreast filed by. There were five thousand — not fifty thousand, as the papers stated. Most of the marchers were shop and factory girls. They had been gathered in from byways and hedges. Many did not know why they marched. There were few real suffragettes. Four times I was urged to fall in line. The spectators were silent. They had no words of encouragement for this demonstration of patriotism. Each knew it was a farce. Eighty thousand women are registered, but the Government has only employed thirty- five hundred. Each knew a million women work- ers could be had for a living wage. Mrs. Pankhurst by her tactics has split the Woman's Suffrage Political Union. Some mem- bers were openly rebellious. They walked up and down and distributed a leaflet, printed in 47 SHORT RATIONS suffragette colors and headed "Votes-for Women," which read : " The procession to-day is not composed of suffragettes, though Mrs. Pankhurst is leading it and using the Votes-for- Women offices to organize it. The W. S. P. U. was founded to demand the enfranchisement of women, a demand not made less but more urgent by this war." With very different emotion I viewed Sylvia Pankhurst's procession. Sylvia does not speak to her mother or to her sister, Crystabel. Sylvia is the leader of a forlorn cause. Neither news- papers nor public paid heed to her little army. They marched at night through a dark and si- lent London. They bore flashing torches. Women who had worked all day, mothers with babies, trudged seven miles to protest against conscription, against national registration, against voteless women being used by the Gov- ernment for any and all purposes at any pay. Up the Strand they came, a little band of four hundred, ragged and weary. I found myself un- consciously falling into line. A woman carry- ing a baby trudged at my side. " It is n't mine," she explained, " but the mother is one of the leaders." Her face was white with fatigue, but 48 LONDON AND THE SUFFKAGETTES her arms clasped the child lovingly. She herself was soon to be a mother. I took the baby from her and slung it across my shoulder. So we pro- ceeded up the Strand and down Whitehall to the Houses of Parliament. Just opposite these great buildings we halted. Here was the meet- ing hall. In flocked the little company, and then came real speeches from real working women : " Our men have gone to war. They are fight- ing for England, we must keep England a place worth fighting for. Women must not take men's places at reduced wages. This will mean hard- ship for the men when they return. Employers will keep the women rather than raise wages. This will mean sex war and revolution. This must not be. We must keep up the wage stan- dard. We must not let the Government own us body and soul. The world says it is fighting Prussianism. But each day of war our govern- ment grows more autocratic. Let us fight to keep Prussianism out of England. England must remain the land of freedom." So spoke this heroic band. My little woman had come back for the baby. "You will ride home?" I said. 49 SHORT RATIONS " Yes," she replied. " But some can't — they haven't a penny for carfare." Germany is the land of paternalism and au- tocracy. The Germans are better housed, better fed, better organized, than in other nations. These benefits are conferred from above. Such a system produces obedience but kills initiative. English workers are not as well off, physically, but intellectually they are free. They make progress through their own efforts. They are self-reliant and strong. Ultimately the system of freedom will conquer the one of autocracy. Therefore England must be kept free. The aver- age Englishman knows this. He watches with dismay his government growing aggressive and militaristic. As yet the Government has not gone far. It has its hand on the pulse of the people and it feels rebellion. It declares strikes illegal, but ultimately decides in favor of the coal mine strikers. Never was England more awake, more alive, more conscious of her destiny. The brave and smiling Tommy, the prosperous worker, the bustle and activity of London, the friendliness of the people, build a strong country. Germany may win untold battles, but she cannot conquer a 50 LONDON AND THE SUFFRAGETTES prosperous, democratic, conscriptionless Eng- land. But as I write I remember a scene on a street corner and grow apprehensive. It is a recruit- ing meeting. A sturdy British soldier is call- ing for volunteers. He does not appeal, he com- mands. He sees a likely looking young chap in the crowd. He points him out and orders him front. The lad is reluctant, but the crowd push him forward. The soldier feels of the boy and begins to bully. Taunts of cowardice are used until the lad yields. But it is equipment rather than more men that are needed. Such methods are ugly. The Englishman dis- likes them. England criticizes its rulers. This worries the Government and it attempts sup- pression. An eloquent pacifist is arrested. But the people continue to talk of peace. They do not as a mass hate Germany. They view Ger- many as a brutal man who has knocked a woman down. The woman must be protected. But be- yond protection the average Englishman does not wish to go. He does not want to smash and kill. The other day two or three thousand volun- teers marched down Charing Cross Boad. The 51 SHOKT KATIONS 'bus on which I rode kept pace with the soldiers. From doorways and windows people leaned, to see the men pass. Girls smiled and waved, little gifts were tossed and caught, a cheerful chaff and banter was kept up along the route. From neither the onlookers nor the soldiers was there any expression of patriotism, no cheers — no ap- plause. The onlookers seemed to say : " This war is nasty business. It's got to be put through. We wish you luck. You are brave to go, but we wish there was some other solution." And the soldiers seemed to answer : " We hate it, too, but each man must do his bit. If we don't get killed, we're not badly off. You needn't think us heroes." This attitude may not be a thrilling one, but it is steady and safe. If freedom and democracy are kept alive England cannot be beaten. At night searchlights flash over London. They search the sky for invading Zeppelins ; but by day a cheerful people fulfil their tasks. 52 CHAPTER V NURSING THE WOUNDED IN PARIS I WANTED to see France. The land of the battle-field would be revealing. Germany was grim, bitter, reckless, and determined; Eng- land busy and outwardly normal. What should I find in France — a land inhabited by the en- emy? Each day passport regulations grew more rigid. England is easy to enter but hard to leave. The English army captain at Folkestone viewed my passport with disfavor. It showed the stamp of the Woman's Peace Congress at The Hague and my visit to Germany. He frowned and looked at me sternly. Suddenly his eye lighted on the lapel of my coat. My heart sank. In my buttonhole was a peace button, a memento of The Hague congress. I had forgot- ten to remove it. " You 're a dangerous woman," he said — " I can't let you pass." One by one my lucky fellow travelers success- 53 SHORT RATIONS fully emerged with stamped passports. The Channel steamer began to puff and snort. I must get to Paris. Furtively I watched the English captain. I took the peace button from my coat — a little blue disc, on it in letters of white the word " Peace." What a topsy-turvy world ! A bomb labeled " For the Kaiser/' would have proclaimed me a safe person, while a peace button made me " a dangerous woman." Sud- denly I laughed. Going to the captain I held out the button. " See," I said, " I '11 give it to you." He tried to be stern, but his humor got the best of him. His mouth twitched, but he straightened up and said severely, " If you speak one word of peace, I '11 have you arrested." You never can tell what will satisfy passport officials. Humor and a letter from the " Eng- lish Nation " testifying I had written an article on Germany won the day, when a letter of intro- duction signed by Secretary of State Lansing failed. I smiled my good-bys to the English captain and dashed on the boat, as it moved into the Channel. It was late evening when I reached Paris. There was not a ray of light in the street when I 54 NUKSING THE WOUNDED IN PABXS stepped from the cab to my lodging place; in that one glance I knew Paris was no longer Paris. The next day I began to explore. I sat at sidewalk cafes and watched the people. The lightness, the gaiety, the bubbling laughter and song have vanished. The Opera House sparkled in the sunshine, the driver's whip snapped; the streets were crowded, but a shadow lay across the city. Sorrowing black-clad people filled the streets. I saw that practically every woman was in mourning. And the men, where were they? Gray-haired men drove cabs, white- haired, bent-shouldered waiters served drinks; but straight, upstanding young men there were none. A one-legged Turk, scarcely more than a boy, went hustling by on crutches with an empty red trouser-leg flapping aimlessly. Paris is full of cripples. Legless, armless, blind men, all young, passed in a steady stream. Every able- bodied man in France under forty-eight has gone to war. Unceasingly gray auto-ambulances em- blazoned with red crosses dash by, bearing their burdens to hospitals all over Paris. Cripples, widows and ambulances — these are the dom- inant notes. France says little and does much. She is 55 SHORT RATIONS proud; she is heroic; she fights on. But the heart and life of France is being crushed. It is impossible to see this and do nothing. I offer my services as assistant nurse at the American ambulance and am accepted. At eight every morning a hospital car takes me to the American ambulance where I work until six. It is a busy life. At first I turn in horror from those swol- len, red, raw, pus-flowing wounds, occupying the place of an arm or leg or a portion of a face. But in twenty-four hours I am dressing these wounds, self -forgotten. It is good to be working instead of waiting — waiting for unknown hor- rors. But when a man's wound heals and his strength returns I rebel at sending him back to battle. Is the labor all to be lost? Faster than women can save, men go out and kill. For- tunately, or unfortunately, not many men leave the ambulance for the front. Generally they have been too terribly wounded. They come to us with the jaw and lower face blown away or a lung ripped. But science is marvelous. Ribs are cut from the patient and new jaws made, arms, legs and eyes amputated, and artificial ones substituted. The ambulance loses by death but six per cent, of its cases, yet only one in ten of 56 NUKSING THE WOUNDED IN PAKIS the men in my ward will be able to return to the front. This accounts for the endless procession of cripples. On the second morning as I hurry down a long hospital corridor I see a familiar face. A short, dark-haired, dark-eyed young man is coming to- ward me. He is one of the wounded and his right arm is gone. His eye catches mine. He stops, bewildered. Then comes recognition. It is Zeni Peshkoff — Maxime Gorki's adopted son. Eight years ago when this man was a boy I had known him in America. I grasp the left hand and my eyes drop before the empty right sleeve. But Zeni Peshkoff is still gay, laughing Zeni. He makes light of his trouble. Not until later do I understand the terrible suffering there is from the missing arm or realize how he struggles to use that which is not. Peshkoff had been in the trenches for months. He had been through battles and bayonet charges and escaped unhurt, but at last his day came. A bursting shell de- stroyed the right arm. He knew the danger, and struggling to his feet, walked from the bat- tle-field. With the left hand he supported the bleeding, broken right arm. As he stumbled back past trenches full of German prisoners his 57 SHORT RATIONS plight was so pitiful, his pluck so great, that in- stinctively these men saluted. At the Place de Secours eight hundred wounded had been brought in. There were accommodations for one hun- dred and fifty. All night young Peshkoff lay unattended, for there were others worse hurt. Gangrene de- veloped, and he watched it spread from fingers to hand and from hand to arm. In the morning a friendly lieutenant noticed him. " There 's one chance," he said, " and that 's a hospital. If you can walk, come with me." Slowly young Pesh- koff arose. Half fainting he dressed and went with the lieutenant — first by taxi to the train and then twelve torturing hours to Paris. As the hours passed the gangrene crept higher and higher. The sick man grew giddy with fever. At each station his carriage companions, fearing death, wished to leave him upon the platform. But the lieutenant was firm. The one chance for life was the hospital. Finally Paris was reached; a waiting ambulance rushed him to the hospital. Immediately he was taken to the operating room and the arm amputated. A half hour more and his life could not have been saved. But this dramatic incident is only one of many. 58 w _ NURSING THE WOUNDED IN PARIS The pluck of the average soldier is unbeliev- able. Operations are accepted without question. There are no protests — only the murmured " C'est la guerre, que voulez-vousf " The wounded do not like to talk war. Their experiences have been too terrible. They try to forget. War is no longer a series of gallant deeds; it is a matter of bursting shells. One man with leg blown off had never even seen the enemy. Bayonet charges after months of wait- ing are almost a relief. But a normal man does not enjoy running his bayonet into his fellow- man. It can be done only under intense excite- ment. Self-defense and stimulants are the aids. Only one soldier spoke with gusto of the Ger- mans he had killed. This man had had his lower face shot away. A wounded German lying on the ground had risen on his elbow and shot him. " Then," said the Frenchman, " I took my bay- onet and ran him clear through." He said: " Ugh, I ran him through again and he was dead." To most men those bayonet charges are like mad dreams. I asked Zeni Peskkoff, socialist, what his sen- sations were when he went out to kill. " It didn't seem real, it doesn't now. Before my 61 SHORT RATIONS last charge the lieutenant and I were filled with the beauty of the night. We sat gazing at the stars. Then the command came and we rushed forward. It did not seem possible I was killing human beings." It is this unreality that sus- tains men. Germans are not human beings — ■ only the enemy. For the wounded French sol- dier will tell you he loathes war and longs for peace. He fights for one object — a permanent peace. He fights to save his children from fight- ing. " Have you any children? " I asked one sol- dier. " No, thank God/' is the reply. " But why? " " Because," comes the fierce answer, " if I had a son I would rather he deserted than see what I have seen." This man is not unusual. The soldiers — not the women — are beginning to say : " We will have no more children unless there is no more war." In the hospital the truth is spoken. No sol- dier wants to go back to battle. Yet he goes and every man in France goes willingly. What else is there to do? The enemy is in the land and must be driven out. It may be the Frenchman will smash himself and his house, but as he says with a significant shrug, {t C'est la guerre, que 62 NURSING THE WOUNDED IN PARIS voulez-vous? " How often that phrase struck my ears. In the operating room, at the death- bed, in the presence of hundreds of little white crosses on a bloody battle-field, wearily, cynic- ally, despairingly, I hear the voice of the soldier proclaiming, " C'est la guerre, que voulez vousf " Yet out of the suffering of war has come gentle- ness. Ready hands help one another. Strangers talk in the street. Wherever I go my little red cross sign of the hospital wins favor. A torn skirt is humbly mended on bended knees, and when I offer a fee the money is pushed back into my hands with the words, "Pour les blessees." This is the language of the women — "pour les blessees/' No service is too great for the wounded. Weeping women stop to tell each other their stories. Vainly I search for signs of heartlessness or gaiety. The Montmartre dis- trict is closed. The paint is peeling from the front of the Moulin Rouge, and the theater door sags on its hinges. The Folies Bergeres was open and I went there. But it was a dreary per- formance—no lightness, no gay little jokes, no evening dresses. Even the street women wore black and plied their trade cheerlessly. I re- member the conversation of my neighbors in a 63 SHOET EATIONS restaurant. Unknown woman to soldier home on leave, " Can't you stay over this evening? " Soldier : " No." Woman : " I don't want any money; I want to be with you and talk." Sol- dier: "Why?" Woman: "Paris is so bor- ing; there are no men." It is a curious anomaly that in all Paris there is no "peace movement/' yet there as nowhere else one can talk peace. The soldiers in the hos- pital listen eagerly to my tales of the Social Dem- ocrats in Germany. I suggest internal revolu- tion rather than smashing by an outside force as a way of ending war and militarism. To this they agree. But how reach Social Democrats and start revolution? That is the problem. To ne- gotiate with the German government they be- lieve impossible. The Government is not to be trusted. It would lie and there would be an- other war. Germany must be defeated because that will defeat militarism, end war, and bring permanent peace. Germany bitter, relentless, ugly and at bay; France tragic, proud, suffer- ing and resolute; England annoyed, reluctant, capable, and sure; and all determined to fight the thing through to a finish. Is there a way out? When will it end? "I don't know when 64 NURSING THE WOUNDED IN PARIS the war will end," says a soldier, "but I know where it will end — in the trenches." More and more it grows clear that the test is to be endur- ance, not victories. One day I visited the battle-field of the Marne. This is twenty miles or more from the front. Yet at the Marne new trenches are being dug. France is covered with trenches; as my train sped to Boulogne soldiers were building them to the railroad track. From day to day as battle rages a trench may be taken. But how can either side beat back over miles and miles of trenches? Meanwhile human life ebbs out The fields of the Marne are one vast cemetery. The land is dot- ted with little white crosses. Yet from this land the peasant gathers his crop. Never has the ground been more fertile. With a crack of his whip the driver points to a great open meadow. " There," he says, " four thousand Germans were burned to death, and to-day we are gathering the biggest hay crop the land has known." On one of my last days in Paris I went to the Invalides. Some wounded soldiers were being decorated. The place was packed. Weeping relatives came to honor their brave men. A mother with a baby stands beside me. Tears are 65 SHOKT EATIONS GOUVERNEMENT MILITAtRE DE PARIS PREFECTURE DE POLICE L4z&2scLce (^t^i^ra^^-i^-^t^-^^^*^A^ Pour lea personnes voyagaant Kaadd- Prenoms ^&(%>t/^ Nationality >£L&ittgsk^&*iSLt**i4. Cheveux (^l^jC*^*^ Profession ^J=x*t*£tsi£- a Ivic ycte t t e . en tramway. en chemin de fer. Signojement : Barbe Tl__i?L — „ ■2 k, Signes particulierii apparests : z uurecm^porteur : Destination pour les voyageuri en chemin d| fer ^POU^nelivre bJkl&U^^, leJLJL&4±z£l915 Lewomipi^g^iyS de Police, Penms valable du < v (Z*0^/(- au Reenter & loutc riuraiS Tout stranger porteur de ce sanf-conduit est term de presenter a toute requi- sition des autorites soit son pcrmis de sejoor, soit son passeport, 1'uu et l'autro munis de sa photographie. A f acsimilie of the safe conduct given the author to the battlefield of the Marne. 66 NUBSING THE WOUNDED IN PAEIS on her cheeks, but pride shines in her eyes as a blind husband is led to his place. Then a band strikes up, and out across the courtyard move a hundred legless, armless and blind men. The Commander-in-Chief is bestowing kisses and pin- ning on medals. I shut my eyes. I see France as she will be in a few years — swarming with cripples. I see young men made old and help- less, sitting in chimney corners, silently finger- ing medals. 67 CHAPTER yi LITTLE BROTHER WHILE in Holland I visited a Belgian refu- gee camp. The children struck me as particularly pathetic. On one occasion I dis- covered a small boy hiding in the bushes and sobbing with fear. Some Dutch soldiers were marching down the road. He had mistaken them for Germans. The horror of the German descent upon his land had left its mark. I related this incident to a Dr. Aletta Jacobs who, with some other Dutch women, had had charge of a refugee camp. It was then she told me of a little Bel- gian refugee who had come to her early in the war. I took down the parts as she gave them, and can vouch for the truth of the following story. It was a warm summer's day in late August. No men were visible in the Belgian hamlet. The women reaped in the fields; the insects hummed in the dry warm air; the house doors 68 LITTLE BEOTHER stood open. On a bed in a room in one of the cottages lay a woman. Beside her sat a small boy. He was still, but alert. His eyes fol- lowed the buzzing flies. With a bit of paper he drove the intruders from the bed. His mother slept. It was evident from the pale, drawn face that she was ill. Suddenly the dreaming, silent summer day was broken by the sound of clattering hoofs. Some one was riding hurriedly through the town. The woman moved uneasily. Her eyes opened. She smiled at the little boy. " What is it, dear? " The boy went to the window. Women were gathering in the street. He told his mother and hurried from the room. Her eyes grew troubled. In a few minutes the child was back, breathless and excited. " O, mother, mother, the Germans are com- ing! " The woman braced herself against the shock. At first she hardly grasped the news. Then her face whitened, her body quivered and became con- vulsed. Pain sprang to her eyes, driving out fear; beads of perspiration stood on her fore- head ; a little animal cry of pain broke from her 69 SHORT RATIONS lips. The boy gazed at her paralyzed, horrified ; then he flung himself down beside the bed and seized his mother's hand. " What is it, mother, what is it? " The paroxysm of pain passed; the woman's body relaxed, her hand reached for the boy's head and stroked it. " It 's all right, my son." Then as the pain began again, "Quick, sonny, bring auntie." The boy darted from the room. Auntie was the woman doctor of B. He found her in the Square. The townspeople were wildly excited. The Germans were coming. But the boy thought only of his mother. He tugged at auntie's sleeve. His frenzied efforts at last caught her attention. She saw he was in need and went with him. Agonizing little moans issued from the house as they entered. In an instant the midwife un- derstood. She wanted to send the boy away, but she must have help. Who was there to fetch and carry? The neighbors, terrified at their danger, were making plans for departure. She let the boy stay. Through the succeeding hour a white-faced lit- tle boy worked manfully. His mother's cries wrung his childish heart. W T hy did babies come 70 LITTLE BROTHER this way? He could not understand. Would she die? Had his birth given such pain? If only she would speak ! And once, as if realizing his necessity, his mother did speak. " It 's all right, my son ; it will soon be over." That message brought comfort; but his heart failed when the end came. He rushed to the window and put his little hands tight over his ears. It was only for a moment. He was needed. His mother's moans had ceased and a baby's cry broke the stillness. The drama of birth passed, the midwife grew restless. She became conscious of the outer world. There were high excited voices; wagons clattered over stones ; moving day had descended on the town. She turned to the window. Neigh- bors with wheelbarrows and carts piled high with household possessions hurried by. They beckoned to her. For a moment the woman hesitated. She looked at the mother on the bed, nestling her babe to her breast ; then the panic of the outside world seized her. Quickly she left the room. The small boy knelt at his mother's bedside, his little face against hers. Softly he kissed the pale cheek. The boy's heart had become a man's. He 71 SHOKT EATIONS tried by touch and look to speak his love, his sympathy, his admiration. His mother smiled at him as she soothed the baby, glad to be free from pain. But presently the shouted order of the departing townspeople reached her ears. She stirred uneasily. Fear crept into her eyes. Passionately she strained her little one to her. " How soon, little son, how soon? " The lad, absorbed in his mother, had forgotten the Germans. With a start, he realized the dan- ger. His new-born manhood took command. His father was at the front. He must protect his mother and tiny sister. His mother was too ill to move, but they ought to get away. Who had a wagon? He hurried to the window, but already even the stragglers were far down the road. All but three of the horses had been sent to the front. Those three were now out of sight with their overloaded wagons. The boy stood stupefied and helpless. The woman on the bed stirred. " My son," she called. " My son." He went to her. " You must leave me and go on." " I can't, mother." The woman drew the boy down beside her. 72 LITTLE BKOTHEE She knew the struggle to come. How could she make him understand that his life and the baby's meant more to her than her own. Lovingly she stroked the soft cheek. It was a grave, deter- mined little face with very steady eyes. " Son, dear, think of little sister. The Ger- mans won't bother with babies. There is n't any milk. Mother hasn't any for her. You must take baby in your strong little arms and run — run with her right out of this land into Holland." But he could not be persuaded. The mother understood that love and a sense of duty held him. She gathered the baby in her arms and tried to rise, but the overtaxed heart failed and she fell back half-fainting. The boy brought water and bathed her head until the tired eyes opened. " Little son, it will kill mother if you don't go." The boy's shoulders shook. He knelt by the bed. A sob broke from him. Then there came the faint far-distant call of the bugle. Fran- tically the mother gathered up her baby and held it out to the boy. " For mother's sake, son, for mother." In a flash, the boy understood. His mother 73 SHORT RATIONS had risked her life for the tiny sister. She wanted the baby saved more than anything in the world. He dashed the tears from his eyes. He wound his arms about his mother in a long pas- sionate embrace. " I '11 take her, mother ; I '11 get her there safely. The bugle grew louder. Through the open window on the far-distant road could be seen a cloud of dust. There was not a moment to lose. Stooping, the boy caught up the red squirming baby. Very tenderly he placed the little body against his breast and buttoned his coat over his burden. The sound of marching feet could now be heard. Swiftly he ran to the door. As he reached the threshold he turned. His mother, her eyes shining with love and hope, was waving a last good-by. Down the stairs, out the back door, and across the fields sped the child. Over grass and across streams flew the sure little feet. His heart tugged fiercely to go back, but that look in his mother's face sustained him. He knew the road to Holland. It was straight to the north ; but he kept to the fields. He did n't want the baby discovered. Mile after mile, 74 LITTLE BROTHER through hour after hour he pushed on, until twi- light came. He found a little spring and drank thirstily. Then he moistened the baby's mouth. The little creature was very good. Occasionally she uttered a feeble cry, but most of the time she slept. The boy was intensely weary. His feet ached. He sat down under a great tree' and leaned against it. Was it right to keep a baby out all night? Or ought he to go to some farm- house? If he did, would the people take baby away ? His mother had said, " Run straight to Holland.' 7 But Holland was twenty miles away. He opened his coat and looked at the tiny crea- ture. She slept peacefully. The night was very warm. He decided to re- main where he was. It had grown dark. The trees and bushes loomed big. His heart beat quickly. He was glad of the warm, soft, live little creature in his arms. He had come on this journey for his mother, but suddenly his boy's heart opened to the tiny clinging thing at his breast. His little hand stroked the baby ten- derly. Then he stooped, and softly his lips touched the red wrinkled face. Presently his lit- tle body relaxed and he slept. He had walked eight miles. Through the long night the deep 75 SHORT RATIONS sleep of exhaustion held him. He lay quite mo- tionless, head and shoulders resting against the tree-trunk, and the new-born babe enveloped in the warmth of his body and arms slept also. The feeble cry of the child woke him. The sun was coming over the horizon and the air was alive with the twitter of birds. At first he thought he was at home and had awakened to a long happy summer's day. Then the fretful little cries brought back memory with a rush. His new-born love flooded him. Ten- derly he laid the little sister down. Stretching his stiff and aching body he hurried for water. Very carefully he put a few drops in the little mouth and wet the baby's lips with his little brown finger. This proved soothing, and the cries ceased. The tug of the baby's lips on his finger clutched his heart. The helpless little thing was hungry, and he too was desperately hungry. What should he do? His mother had spoken of milk. He must get milk. Again he gathered up his burden and buttoned his coat. From the rising ground on which he stood he could see a farmhouse with smoke issuing from its chimney. He hurried down to the friendly open door. A kindly woman gave him food. 76 LITTLE BROTHER She recognized him as a little refugee bound for Holland. He had difficulty in concealing the baby, but fortunately she did not cry. The woman saw that he carried something, but when he asked for milk she concluded he had a pet kit- ten. He accepted this explanation. Eagerly he took the coveted milk and started on. But day-old babies do not know how to drink. When he dropped milk into the baby's mouth she choked and sputtered. He had to be content with moistening her mouth and giving her a milk- soaked finger. Refreshed by sleep and food, the boy set off briskly. Holland did not now seem so far off. If only his mother were safe ! Had the Germans been good to her? These thoughts pursued and tormented him. As before, he kept off the beaten track, making his way through open meadows and patches of trees. But as the day advanced, the heat grew intense. His feet ached, his arms ached, and, worst of all, the baby cried fretfully. At noon he came to a little brook sheltered by trees. He sat down on the bank and dangled his swollen feet in the cool, fresh stream. But his tiny sister still cried. Suddenly a thought came to him. Placing the baby on his knees he 77 SHORT RATIONS undid the towel that enveloped her. There had been no time for clothes. Then he dipped a dirty pocket handkerchief in the brook and gently sponged the hot, restless little body. Very ten- derly he washed the little arms and legs. That successfully accomplished he turned the tiny creature and bathed the small back. Evidently this was the proper treatment, for the baby grew quiet. His heart swelled with pride. Rever- ently he wrapped the towel around the naked little one, and administering a few drops of milk, again went on. All through that long hot afternoon he toiled. His footsteps grew slower and slower; he covered diminishing distances. Frequently he stopped to rest, and now the baby had begun again to cry fitfully. At one time his strength failed. Then he placed the baby under a tree and rising on his knees uttered a prayer : — " O God, she 's such a little thing, help me to get her there." Like a benediction came the cool breeze of the sunset hour, bringing renewed strength. In the afternoon of the following day, a wagon stopped before a Belgian Refugee camp in Hol- 78 LITTLE BROTHER land. Slowly and stiffly a small boy slid to the ground. He had been picked up just over the border by a friendly farmer and driven to camp. He was dirty, bedraggled, and footsore. Very kindly the ladies' committee received him. He was placed at a table and a bowl of hot soup was set before him. He ate awkwardly with his left hand. His right hand held something beneath his coat, which he never for a moment forgot. The women tried to get his story, but he remained strangely silent. His eyes wandered over the room and back to their faces. He seemed to be testing them. Not for an hour, not until there was a faint stirring in his coat, did he disclose his burden. Then, going to her whom he had chosen as most to be trusted, he opened his jacket. In a dirty towel lay a naked, miserably thin, three-days-old baby. Mutely holding out the forlorn object, the boy begged help. Bit by bit they got his story. Hurriedly a Belgian Refugee mother was sent for. She was told what had happened, and she took the baby to her breast. Jealously the boy stood guard while his tiny sister had her first real meal. But the spark of life was very low. For two days the camp concentrated on the 79 SHORT RATIONS tiny creature. The boy never left his sister's side. But her ordeal had been too great. It was only a feeble flicker of life at best, and during the third night the little flame went out. The boy was utterly crushed. He had now but one thought — to reach his mother. It was impos- sible to keep the news from him longer. He would have gone in search. Gently he was told of the skirmish that had destroyed the Belgian hamlet. There were no houses or people in the town that had once been his home. " That is his story/' ended the friendly Dutch woman. " And his father? " I inquired. " Killed at the front/' was the reply. I rose to go, but I could not get the boy out of my mind. What a world! What intolerable suffering Was there no way out? Then the ever-recurring phrase of the French and Belgian soldiers came to me. When I had shuddered at ghastly wounds, at death, at innumerable white crosses on a bloody battlefield, invariably, in dry, cynical, hopeless tones, the soldier would make the one comment, — f0 3?/\ * Les Verrferes-gare ie 2 2 li , ~. ... , : ...... „_ ..' .,.. j . ^if.ned at the Port of Ne* York this 15 **<.. JUL 19)6 . t*rfor<» cSut uir einmaltgett Kcife: ■Slchfcffim.ti.ti Uo..* A " Out zur .-tomato Rel«: von itiJJJj//tf-ti'- — uber &>Ut«.|CHEN. • MT/f "' "' & Polizeidire^J .. \ '.../.." rjSf I y£ K. FoUzeldirektlon: ^ » =i JSP*"™"? t ■ ..'.. ,:''^Jufe^W w ' w x ... ^Trrfr/^ Tliiiij-hf C'"'H — V" 11 '' 111 - jfiltU jiir Cinrcife yom X^\ bis juni f t ■ r . * ' ) y ■ ol it- llr.i •: -. lesi it. t'tn l; «= 'l iail • !l_h . FRANCS ...,v r Einrelse :.■■. de Chancellcne: tV' fimerif&sLegation. Berne, s> /?/' '/n \ '" " nVM '' «&- Consul of the Daited SU! > ^y^&k-c' A< ^'^ "V 6 *" "V s s&R'tie ' Al'TlIv'l: . THE SCANDINAVIAN CQUNTKIES " Brave spirit." TJie other, from my father, tells of constant thought. He wired : " Watching every night from the hill at sunset." This, coupled, with the " Brave spirit " of the other cable and the fact that I am going to Ger- many, are too much for the English officer. He feels sure I mean to torpedo the King of England at sunset. Fortunately, the last words of the home cable are " Mother preserving." The of- ficers mother also puts up jam. His fears relax. We have a good laugh. There is one trifling excitement during the de- tention at Kirkwall. A crowd gathers one after- noon at the ship's side. A German stowaway lias been discovered. He is being lowered into an English boat. There are many little expressions of sympathy. They come from the pro-Germans and Swedes. A big Swede takes up a collection for the prisoner. It is quite evident where Swed- ish sympathy lies. That night we cross the North Sea. Not many of us sleep, but in the morning we are lying off the Norwegian coast. There is a dense fog. When it lifts our ship is lying between masses of rocks so near it seems possible to jump to them from the ship's deck. Soon we begin to steam up 85 SHOKT KATIONS the narrow fjord to Bergen. Each moment the shores come in closer and rise higher. The sea and sky are a steely blue, the air as clear and fresh as on a brilliant winter's day. Everywhere the people crowd to the shore to wave a greeting. Norway presents a mixture of the crude, rugged freshness of America, and the finished grandeur of Switzerland. We land at Bergen and there take train to Christiania. I take three days to make the trip and penetrate deep into a fjord and climb to the top of a snow- covered mountain. There is something almost sinister in the gran- deur of the scenery. It is overpowering to the uninitiated. It is bound to produce people of originality and inner resources. Frequently families living deep in one fjord have never known what lies on the other side of a towering mountain. There is no trail. Everywhere on my trip I meet young men and women mountain climbing. The women, like the men, wear knickerbockers. People are on their summer vacations. There is no sign of war, nor is there any sign of war in Christiania. That city, lying among its hills and curving 86 THE SCANDINAVIAN COUNTEIES water front, might be mistaken at first glance for San Francisco and the Golden Gate. But the city has the earmarks of age, and romance yet lacking in San Francisco. It is a miniature Paris. It is full of the spirit of Bohemia. Its restaurants abound in good food, gay music and interesting people. Norway is teeming with originality. It is not smooth running and well ordered, but it has greatness and force. Hardly a picture or piece of sculpture in its gallery of modern art but has character and meaning. Much is crude, but all expressive of life and virility. One no longer wonders that this is the land of Ibsen and Bjorn- son. Norway is a race of individualists. German uniformity, Germany's organization and German culture are repellent to every fiber of the Norwe- gian being. Norway, the land of viking ships and adventurers, could not produce a race of obe- dient people. Therefore Norwegian sympathy is with France and England, for Norway believes these countries stand for freedom, democracy and a republican form of government. From Christiania I take a sleeper to Goteborg, Sweden. When I awake in the morning it is to 87 SHOET RATIONS find myself in a new land. In my school geog- raphy Norway and Sweden seemed one and the same. But Goteborg is as alien to Christiania as Boston is to New York. This city is smooth run- ning and well ordered; no crowd, no bustle, no Bohemia. Neatly numbered little blue and white cars run in regular circles about the town. The atmosphere is that of spotless town, where they always use sapolio. It is quaint and charm- ing, but not exciting. Sweden, like Germany, is well organized. The Swedish and German tem- peraments are akin, methodical and thorough, with a distaste for the erratic, the erratic which so frequently breeds genius. In the afternoon I take the train from Gote- borg to Copenhagen. It is too late when I reach there to form an impression. But I am conscious of flying taxis and streams of people. I have reached a seething metropolis which makes Chris- tiania and Goteborg seem tiny by comparison. Copenhagen combines all races. It has canals, people with wooden shoes and sturdy Dutch tem- perament. It has a few mildly interesting side- walk cafes. It has suburban English houses and Tommies who go out Sunday with their best girls. It has a great beer garden in the center of the 88 THE SCANDINAVIAN COUNTRIES city, called Tivoli, like the Zoological Garden of Berlin. Sundays and evenings Tivoli is crowded with bourgeois, whole families, fathers, mothers and children who come to enjoy the fun. Beer flows, bands play and people pass and repass. Denmark absorbs all races and elements. But the Danish people, like the Norwegian, are heart and soul with the Allies. Not so much be- cause of love for England and France as through hatred of Germany. Germany has snatched part of their land and bitterness is in their hearts. They will not willingly assist Germany. All the frontier mail is examined, for recently it was found thin slabs of butter were being sent to the enemy by letter postage. Many Danish merchants have made vast for- tunes out of German necessity. But these peo- ple are held in contempt. In the early days they aided in feeding the German army. This they did by exporting great cans of prepared meat called "goolash." Now these people are nick- named the " goolash." They struggle to disguise their identity and their nouveau riche condition. Old telephone and automobile numbers are in great demand and ramshackle old houses are bought at exorbitant prices. 89 SHOKT KATIONS The atmosphere of Copenhagen is distressing. It is tense, like a strung bow. It seems to await some dire fate, and it reeks with money made from dying humanity. Never has the city been so prosperous. Three times the ordinary num- ber of taxicabs ply the streets. Yet, in spite of great business activity, the populace is unset- tled, expectant, dreading it knows not what. No- where are there worse stories of German atroci- ties. These tales sink in. One begins to under- stand what the early American settlers must have felt with a band of savage red Indians just beyond the next ridge. Daily I grow more nervous. Fear possesses me. It is said that every woman who enters Ger- many is subjected to a sickening and disgusting personal search, and the tales of hunger and im- prisonment, the fate of all foreigners in Ger- many, are appalling. Can I carry my task through? I dine with an American friend. He has be- come completely dominated by the atrocity stories. He almost orders me home. " America forgets," he declares, " that Europe is at war and Germany is no place for a woman." I cannot sleep. Only pride holds me to my 90 THE SCANDINAVIAN COUNTRIES purpose. I am told that " The New York Tri- bune " is despised in Germany and " The Chicago Tribune " tolerated. I destroy all papers except my " Chicago Tribune " credentials. I have no scruples about this, for I am writing the same article for both papers and I am out in search of the truth and do not wish to hurt any nation. Moreover, I have an errand of mercy in Ger- many. " The Christian Work Fund " for starv- ing children of the New York Church Peace Union has given me f 500 for German war or- phans and starving babies, with a promise of more later. I clutch this firmly in my hand and proceed to the German Embassy at Copenhagen. Here I wait all day. Any minute my number may be called, so I dare not go out to lunch. There is a great crowd of people, all seeking pass- ports. Most are turned away. Each day it grows more difficult to enter Germany. Finally, at 5 o'clock, my turn comes. My credentials are entirely satisfactory. My papers are stamped and passed without question. It is very reas- suring. But then began dreary days of waiting. Not for four days after my passport is vised can I leave Copenhagen. Three of my pictures and all 91 SHORT RATIONS marks of identification are being sent to the fron- tier. It is the waiting that is nerve-racking. Meanwhile all Copenhagen seemed bent on tell- ing me dire tales of the " Barbara." A Norwegian acquaintance who is on her way from Holland to Denmark through Germany twice sends word she is arriving. Eagerly I meet her train, but she never appears. What has happened? Is she imprisoned in Germany? Then I bethink myself to telegraph a German friend and ask her to meet me in Hamburg. In one week I sent three telegrams, but received no reply. It is very weird. I have the sensation that I am hurling myself into unknown space where I shall be cut off from all world communi- cation. Then the food problem troubles me. My Den- mark friends urge me to secure government au- thorization to carry a small stock of supplies. This I do and purchase eight pounds of butter and a half yard of sausage. Finally, the morning of my departure arrives. I and my three bags, my package of butter and my half yard of sausage are duly deposited in the train. At the last moment comes a wire from Germany. Not from my friend, but from a 92 THE SCANDINAVIAN COUNTRIES friend of my friend. I can only guess why this is. Perhaps my friend is in prison. The telegram invites me to come to Munich, but my ticket and passport are made out for Hamburg. It is too late to change. I shall know no one in Hamburg. If only I could speak German. Speech is a valuable asset. Most things can be explained, but I shall be tongue- tied. I do not feel at all brave. It is like going into battle. I ? m shivering, homesick, and ter- ribly excited. As the train speeds on its way I study my train companions. There are three Chinese students, a German merchant, and a woman who says she is Swiss. The woman is very friendly. She speaks to each of us and asks our mission. She has traveled from Switzerland through Germany and Denmark to Sweden and is now on her way back. This is a trip difficult to make unless one has powerful friends. She speaks English fluently. Perhaps she is working for Germany. Anyway she is very friendly, and very appreciative of my desire to help German babies. She is on her way to Ham- burg. I ask to go with her. If she is a spy I could be with no safer companion. It is terrible 93 SHOET EATIONS to be so suspicious. That is one of the deadly features of war — you trust no one. As the train speeds on and we reach the Dan- ish frontier we see small encampments of sol- diers. We are entering Germany by way of Warnemude. When we reach the water front a German boat is waiting to carry us to the other side. It is a trip of about two hours. As we cross this tiny piece of the Baltic Sea there are no signs of the German fleet. We probably are too far from Kiel Bay. The German territory on which we land is a seashore resort. There is a great stretch of beach dotted with sun umbrellas and a few peo- ple walking aimlessly about. Somewhere a band plays faintly. It is very dreary. Like a pleas- ure resort on a rainy day. As we land we are conducted into a long wooden building. The first great ordeal is about to begin. I stick close to my traveling compan- ion. She is given No. 50 and I No. 51. My heart goes like a triphammer. Suppose they don't pass me. My companion is summoned first, but a mo- ment later my turn comes. I am shown into an inner office. I find myself in the midst of a little knot of soldiers. At a desk is an ofiicer asking 94 THE SCANDINAVIAN COUNTRIES questions and taking answers. I stammer and stutter ; the few words of German I know desert me. I thrust out my papers desperately. These have been translated into German. Their con- tents are magical. That money for suffering babies softens German hearts. An officer who speaks English addresses me. " Where are you going? " A. — To Hamburg. " Where do you expect to stay? " A. — I don't know ; I 'm traveling with a. friend. " What is your friend's name? " At last I am caught. I grow very red. I realize I have never asked my companion's name. The German officers gaze at me stolidly, wait- ing an answer. Finally I blurt out : "I don't know her name, but she 's No. 50." Carefully they consult their list. It is as I guessed. No. 50 ' is eminently satisfactory. With utmost courtesy my passport is vise and my luggage stamped and passed unopened. I am the first to leave the little building. The only article that troubles the English-speaking officer is a box of American crackers. " You 'd better conceal those or it may cause jealousy that we let you keep them. We have made an exception in your case." There isn't 95 SHOKT RATIONS an inch of room in my bag, so I reply : " I '11 throw them away/' and raise my hand to do so. " Oh, don't do that ! " The command comes so quickly and earnestly that in a flash I realize every speck of food in Germany is prized. So I board the train with crackers, butter, dangling sausage and unopened baggage. It is nearly two hours before the other passen- gers are released. To travel in wartime requires patience. Many of the women have flushed faces. It is evident their examination has not been agreeable. No. 50 arrives shortly. She, too, is flushed. She says she has recently had an operation and wears a support. This sur- gical harness she was obliged to remove for in- spection. Why this is if, as I suspect, she is known to the German government I do not know. Anyway, I have been lucky. My papers are good. All this time the train has been standing in a long, wooden railroad shed. There has been nothing to see. As we pull out my eyes sweep the country. There are no trenches and no body of soldiers. To the casual observer it looks as if the Danes could walk straight into Germany. As we speed through the country we pass great 96 THE SCANDINAVIAN COUNTRIES stretches of flat, barren, uninteresting pasture land. Here and there are herds of cows. My companion informs me we are passing through the dairy district. Once my companion grabs my arm excitedly to point to a field of wheat (white flour) . There is a dining car on the train. It has been said that through trains furnish good meals and so deceive traveling foreigners as to internal conditions. This dinner is fourth rate, with a fourth rate service — a total change from the well run din- ing car of a year ago. There is soup, fish, a tiny slab of meat, vegetables and a pudding. The quantity is small and the quality poor and the preparation atrocious. The latter defect is not the fault of the cook. It is due to lack of fat, lack of sugar, lack of seasoning. It has all been boiled and is tasteless. It reminds me of prison fare. The pudding cannot be eaten. It is a gray mass and tastes like bran. It is without sweetening. A soldier manfully eating his sees me in the act of swallowing my first mouthful. He grins a sardonic grin. It is practically the only smile I see in all Prussia. In three hours we reach Hamburg. If there had been a carriage or taxi at the station it had 97 SHORT RATIONS gone when we reached the entrance. We eventu- ally secure an aged porter to carry our luggage to the Reichshof Hotel across the way. The sta- tion is full of soldiers, pale-faced, worried and silent. They are lining up to take night trains for the front. At the hotel my companion and I secure ad- jacent single rooms. It is a great relief to have her German tongue at my service. I don't open my mouth. The Reichshof is perhaps a second rate or third rate hotel, but I have a perfectly appointed room, with hot and cold running water for 3 marks 50 pfennigs a day (about 90 cents). German hotel men have resolutely kept hotels open at great loss and have not raised room rates. I am too much excited to go to bed, and suggest a walk. Through silent, deserted streets my companion and I make our way. We come to the great sheet of water in the center of Ham- burg. At intervals bright lights from a cafe send their shimmering rays flashing and dancing across the water. But all is silent and still as though some great calamity were upon the city. We enter the cafe. It is a huge place and has hundreds of little tables. Only two are occu- 98 THE SCANDINAVIAN COUNTRIES pied — one by a group all in mourning. The brilliance of the place exaggerates its big empti- ness. We sit down and order coffee. Presently two cups of steaming black liquid are served. There is no sugar and no milk. My companion calls a waiter. " You ? ve forgotten the milk and sugar." The waiter bows politely. " No, madam," says he. " We have recently been ver- boten to serve either milk or sugar." We drink our coffee in silence. It is coffee " ersatz," which means coffee mixed with a sub- stitute. A lump rises in my throat. I see the tired, worried soldiers with their lean faces. I looked at the little group in mourning across the way. I taste my undrinkable coffee. Already the suffering of the people has sunk deep ; an aching pity seizes me. I do not stop to reason whose fault it is. Whether the German government is not the chief culprit for the state of affairs, I only know mankind is being hurt, is being punished. To crush people makes them ugly. " This has got to stop," I whisper to my com- panion, and she nods. 99 CHAPTER II HAMBURG UNDER THE HAND OF DEATH August 10th. I AWOKE to find myself in Germany. I sprang from bed and crept to the window. Beneath lay an empty courtyard — quiet, still, no sign of life. I press the electric button and order breakfast. A pale, worried little man ar- rives with a tray. There is the same undrink- able coffee of the night before, a tiny drop of blue watery-milk in a doll's pitcher no bigger than my thumb, no sugar, some black, sour, uneatable bread, and a small saucer of marmalade. Irri- tation seizes me. How can I spend weeks in Germany without proper food? I remember my box of American crackers, and the Danish butter and sausage reposing in the hotel refrigerator. But I have the decency not to send for them. I have at most some weeks of discomfort, the Ger- man people months of patient suffering. The Danish food shall go to a German friend. By the time I am dressed, my traveling companion, 100 UNDER THE HAND OF DEATH No. 50, has joined me. We decide to make a tour of the city. It is a gray, sunless day. The weather increases the gloom of the city. Only a few people are upon the street; old people or very young people and tiny children. But occa- sionally we pass a silent, dejected group lined up before a meat shop. It is a meat day. Working women with babies in their arms, or tiny chil- dren carrying baskets, or old decrepit men and women clutching a Government meat card, pa- tiently wait their turn. The shop door flies open, three or four are admitted, and a miserable half- pound of meat portioned out. Except for these food purchasers, the city seems actionless. We enter a book shop and ask for a map. But to sell a plan of Hamburg is verhoten. So many things are verboten. Per- haps that accounts for the inactivity. Store win- dows present a fine display, but inside the shop is silent and empty. Even in the business section there is little life. We find a small boat that makes a three hours' trip about the harbor, and take it. The great wharves are peopleless, no hurrying men, no swinging derricks, no smoke issuing from smoke- stacks or funnels. In the docks lie big and little 101 SHOKT EATIONS boats, rusty, paintless, deserted. Tlie great Imperator, like a towering monster, commands the center. The paint is peeling from its sides. Its brass is dull, some dirty stained blankets flap on an upper deck. Like a thing alive it seems stricken with plague. Its* proud title Imperator is gone, and in its place is the word Cap Polonia. Except for our tug and two others, no vessels move upon the water. There are no whistles, no chug-chug and swish of passing boats, no vibrant thrilling life. Hamburg is a city of sleepers. Its big hotels, its many stores, its impressive buildings stretch out endlessly, but within all is still. All that modern industry and the in- genuity of man can achieve has here been flung upon the land, and then the force that created it has vanished, leaving these great monuments to rot, to rust, and to crumble. The tragedy of un- used treasures is as horrible as rows of dead. A city seems visibly dying. Faint from want of food, we leave the boat to seek a restaurant. We find one directly oppo- site the Hamburg-American docks, on the hill- side. We seat ourselves on the outdoor porch which commands the harbor. As we do so, we notice a long line of women and children filing 102 UNDER THE HAND OF DEATH into the big Hamburg-American buildings. Each bears a pail. When they emerge it is with steaming contents. The docks have been turned into big feeding kitchens. When the women leave, a whistle blows. Then from every direc- tion come old men and young boys. They come running, hopping, jumping, each striving to be first, driven by hunger, or by fear that the last may have nothing. The police keep them in or- der. They file into the big building to eat. The meal furnished us is scanty, but after this scene it seems bountiful. There is soup, fish, meat, vegetables, fruit, and cheese. The bread and meat are to be had only with cards. Like the day before, the food is watery and tasteless. It is such food as is served in institutions. Prison diet does not promote health or strength. One can live on it, but patriotism and temper suffer. I discovered there are two kinds of bread, one a small roll, its substance only slightly dark. This is very eatable, and quite different from the ordinary black bread. Six of these small rolls can be had on a daily bread card. This bread, with a piece of Swiss cheese, do much to restore me to cheerfulness. When we have finished, No. 50 suggests a trip 103 SHORT RATIONS to the Bismarck Denkmal. She is an ardent ad- mirer of Bismarck and all German officials. It is only a short walk to the Denkmal. It is situ- ated on a small hill, and the gigantic figure is further elevated by a high pedestal, till it towers over the city. There is something sinister in the figure. It is clad in armor, and leans on a gigantic sword. It seems to say " no force in the world shall de- ter me; I conquer all." Yet there is weakness behind the strength. As a work of art it is a failure. It is made of square cut stone, placed on square cut stone. This endless multiplicity of exactly similar stones, well ordered and ar- ranged, has the effect of massive greatness. But it is a greatness built from the outside. Be- neath is no inspired central vein of strength. It is different with French sculpture. Rodin's figures, for instance, personify power. The power that arises from depicting the fire, energy, and originality of the human soul. But my companion is enthralled. This massive great- ness of arrangements means to her strength. " Is n't it wonderful? " she breathes. " If only he were alive, how different it would be! Germany would conquer all." 104 iir i t THE BISMARCK DENKMAL At the Foot of This Statue a Mother Was Selling- Her Child UNDER THE HAND OF DEATH The words have hardly left her lips when we hear voices. A crowd of children is gathering just below. School is out, and they are sur- rounding an object of interest. One or two women join them. There is no passing populace to swell the throng. We approach and see in the center of the crowd of children a woman crouched upon a bench. She is dirty, ragged, and dark in coloring. She may be Armenian or Italian. On the ground at her feet is a baby just big enough to walk. It also is dirty, and possesses only one ragged garment. The mother sits listless, gazing at her child. It is evident she is soon to be a mother again. There is great chat- tering among the children. I turn to my com- panion for explanation. " The woman wants to sell her child. She says she has n't anything to eat. She is n't a German mother. Of course, no German mother would do such a thing. You can see she isn't good. She is going to have another baby." A school-child gives the toddling baby some cherries. She eats them greedily. My hand goes to my pocket-book, but my companion pulls me away. If I bought the baby, what could I do with her on a trip through Germany? 107 SHORT RATIONS Then my eyes rests on the Bismarck Denkmal. I gaze at that massive, methodical, stolid war god at whose feet this human tragedy is being en- acted. Rage seizes me, and a brilliant and crazy idea comes. Why not blow up the military Denkmals as a way of freeing Germany from the war bug? The Allies are stupidly making women and children suffer, while the military class and militarism flourish. What is wanted is a bomb for each Bismarckian and royal Denk- mal. From the Denkmal we go to the residential quarter. We try to get a taxi, but there is none. I saw just three during that day. It has grown to be tea-time. After a short walk, we enter a popular cafe. Here at last is a large group of people. There are many well-dressed women, retired officers or officers home on leave, and some slightly wounded soldiers. The tables in the big building or scattered about on the side- walk are all occupied. A band is playing gay music. On the surface all looks well. But a line of Whitman flashes through my mind: — Smartly attired, countenance smiling, form upright, death under the breast-bones, hell under the skull-bones. 108 UNDER THE HAND OF DEATH There is no chatter and no laughter. The faces are lined with sadness. Except among the women, there is no youth. All are shrunken, listless, distraught Coffee " Ersatz " (coffee mixed with a substitute) , and tea " Ersatz " is be- ing served. There is no milk and no sugar. The few cakes are made of an unknown substance. I try one, but cannot swallow it. Only the music is cheerful. There is a revival of band-playing in Germany. It is needed to hide the lack of laughter and talk. There are but two topics of conversation — war and food shortage. There is nothing else to discuss, for there is little business, no trade, no reforms, no scientific discoveries, no creative work. Life has become mere existence — a prison existence. Mind and bodies are shrink- ing from a shortage of intellectual and physical nourishment. This first day in Germany is the worst. Fresh from war-free countries, the impression is vivid. After a little I become adjusted. All who live in Germany get adjusted. The changes have come gradually. One month sugar stops. When this is an old story, then one must learn to do without milk. Herr Smyth fails one week, and 109 SHORT RATIONS Herr Bauer weeks later. This slow decline blinds Germany to what is really occurring. But the total, seen by a stranger, is appalling. Across the street from the cafe is a little cir- cular space with benches. On a bench is seated a tragic, well-dressed mother in deep mourning. Her child plays beside her, innocently happy. He climbs up and down, and finally knocks a paper bag from the bench. A roll tumbles into the dust and darts under the bench, covering it- self with dirt. The mother picks it up, carefully brushes it, and gives it to the child, who eats eagerly. Everywhere are similar pathetic inci- dents. My spirits sink lower and lower. " Look here," I say firmly to my companion, " I 've got to have a square meal. We are going to the best and most expensive hotel in town." That evening we dine at the Atlantic, and have a meal that is satisfying. By a skilful use of wine, salt, and some stray scraps of fat, the table de'hote dinner is equal to that of a second- rate American hotel. The slice of meat served is no bigger than my hand, brown and juiceless, but the soup, fish, vegetables, and dessert would pass muster anywhere. 110 UNDER THE HAND OF DEATH It seems cruel to eat of Germany's best, but henceforth I decided to live at the most expensive hotels. That night a picture flashed before me, It is the vision of a big unoccupied building. In large black letters upon its front is the inscrip- tion: "English Reform Church/' and in its gaping windows are plastered, printed signs read- ing: " Zv, vermieten" (To Let). No wonder God's buildings are to let. God, the Spirit of Love, must have difficulty finding any place to rest these days. Next morning my companion and I separate. She starts for Switzerland, and I for Berlin. My inability to speak German is disconcerting. I manage to get on the train, but in the dining- car I am helpless. I content myself with tea, bread, and cheese, the only words I know. In the compartment with me is an attractive young woman and her husband. They offer me maga- zines and papers. I summon up courage to say : " Ich Jcann nicht Deutsch sprechen" and show them my credentials. The young woman is im- mediately interested. She speaks to me in ex- cellent English. In May, 1915, I spent ten days in Berlin. Ill SHOKT RATIONS Then English could not be spoken with comfort. Flushed faces and angry looks were the result. To-day English is tolerated. Occasionally, eyes follow me questioningly ; the official class resent it, but the people are always friendly. A year ago there was bitter hatred of America. " Ameri- can bullets " were flung in one's face everywhere. To-day the average person is pathetically eager to be friends. Slowly the people are awakening. For months the newspapers have fed them on the triumphs of Germany and the perfidy of other nations. But these stories of glorious German victories have resulted in — what? A lean and barren country, under-nourishment, death, the hatred of other nations. The people begin to doubt their leaders. To call these people " barbars " is an outrage. They are like ourselves, just folks, kindly and generous; deceived and brow-beaten by a ruth- less military group. The young woman in the railway carriage be- longs to the well-to-do bourgeoisie. She is eager to talk. " Why," she asks, " does the world think we 're beaten when we have soldiers in Belgium and France? " Often this question is asked. Boasting no longer exists. Instead comes the 112 UNDER THE HAND OF DEATH plaintive query : " Why are we beaten, and why must we suffer? " We gaze out of the window as the train speeds on. We pass great stretches of desolate, barren, juiceless land. It is sandy and difficult to culti- vate. It is the worst portion of Germany. A tear is in my companion's eye. "We have got to have food," she avers, and then a moment later: "Oh! why can't we have peace?" It is early afternoon when we reach Berlin. I leave the train slowly. When I reach the station entrance the taxis and carriages are all taken. An aged porter with a push-cart volunteers to conduct me to the Adlon. It is Sunday. I fol- low the push-cart through the silent streets, but as we pass the Thiergarten a great throng of peo- ple is visible. They flow in and out about the Hindenburg Denkmal. That figure is made of wood and covered with nails. You pay a small sum, and hammer in a nail. In this manner patriotism and Hindenburg devotion are in- culcated, and the Government gets the money. If ever there were a systematic smashing of Denkmals, it would create a busy day for Berlin. There are so many of them. The Thiergarten strasse is lined with ugly monstrosities of roy- 113 SHORT RATIONS alty. Many figures are portraits of English nobility who intermarried with Germans. Evi- dently, whatever comes to Germany becomes Ger- man, for all are decorated with wreaths and flowers. But the Sunday crowd that moves about the Thiergarten is not happy. As in Hamburg and elsewhere, the men are old or very young, except for the sprinkling of lean, pale, nerve-racked sol- diers. But Berlin has more life than Hamburg. It is the busiest spot in Germany. It and the munition districts are the centers of activity. Berlin is more active than it was a year ago. Then action seemed suspended. The city was crowded, but idle. The populace was too tense, excited, and grim to work. It moved restlessly upon the streets, waiting a glorious victory. The future was ignored. A long war was not dreamt of. There was a shortage of fodder, so thousands of cows were killed. This lack of foresight meant in time a shortage of milk and butter. Germany was too sure of triumph to think in terms of years. But now conditions have changed. The as- surance and arrogance have vanished. In their 114 UNDER THE HAND OF DEATH place is a dull resignation. All life is centered on mere existence. The wounded who have come back have gone to work. Wagons carrying supplies and old patched taxis returned from the front move upon the streets. The necessities of life must be had. Berlin, the seat of govern- ment, must secure them. So on the surface there is bustle and action, and life somewhat resembles the normal. But it is a queer, limited, down-at-the-heel activity. People are upon the streets, but the stores are nearly empty. There is a shortage of things to buy. The very rich still purchase, but cheap things are only to be had with Government cards. That is the tragedy of Germany — the sore spot that festers. The pinch has come, and the rich protect themselves at the expense of the poor. At the Adlon and other great hotels one suf- fers little. There is no sugar, but saccharine is served, saccharine which ordinarily can only be had by a doctor's order. It is true the allowance of meat, bread, and butter per person is the same. At the Adlon, butter is furnished on Tuesday and Friday, the two meatless days. For break- 115 SHOET RATIONS fast one received a pat no larger than a big straw- berry, and that is all. But the meat problem hardly touches the rich. Chickens, ducks, and birds are not called meat. They are to be had at high prices. On meatless days they are always served at the Adlon. The fat from these birds to an extent makes up for the lack of butter. More- over, the poor frequently have no money for meat or butter, and their allowance is purchased by the rich. It is marvelous with what ingenuity the big hotels conceal deficiencies. That is why visitors and reporters fail to see the underlying truth. Duck is served the night of my arrival. The table d'hote dinner is $1.75. I eat every scrap. It is not enough for a hungry man, but for me it is satisfying. As I rise from the table I say to the waiter : " That is as good a dinner as I ever ate.' 7 He smiles broadly, greatly pleased. But I go to bed tormented by the lean and shrunken people I have seen. It is foolish to starve out Germany. This procedure does not hurt the governing classes and the rich. They will not suffer until the rest of Germany is dead. Starvation kills off the poor, but leaves the mili- tarists intact. This is not the way to crush 116 UNDER THE HAND OF DEATH militarism. It cannot be done by pressure from the outside. Regeneration always comes from within. Revolution or evolution — not smash- ing — is what is needed. 117 CHAPTER III LIFE IN BERLIN August 12th to 26th. SNUGGLE down into my luxurious bed. I look about my room with pleasure. Every tiny comfort is provided for. The silk draper- ies, the linen sheets, the silk eiderdown bed- spread, all tell of Germany's former luxury. War and poverty exist outside, but here all is comfort. I am loath to rise. Even breakfast is reassuring. There is coffee, saccharine, and a tiny drop of milk, two rolls, no butter, but some delicious jam. It is last year's jam. This year's has little sugar. As I start to leave the hotel I pause in the en- trance to gaze up and down the famous street Unter den Linden. Thin streams of people are passing and repassing. It is Monday, but the atmosphere is that of Sunday. German week- days now are all like Sunday. A little group of people is pressed against a big glass window. 118 LIFE IN BERLIN Here the latest war bulletins are posted. Peo- ple always assemble at two spots — war bulle- tins and food shops. It is uncanny to see tragic eyes gazing into pastry shops and fruit stores. Meat is not displayed. I wondered why the but- ter and cheese stores were ignored. I tried gaz- ing in one. They put up such a good appearance with their shining tinfoil packages. Then I dis- covered the reason. The packages are fake. Each holds a block of wood. There is no butter or cheese in window or shop. Twice a week a tiny supply arrives to be distributed to the bearers of cards, that is all. As I start to leave the hotel a clerk detains me : " You must go at once to the police," he says. This is my first police visit. I did not go in Hamburg. Nothing was said about it. This looks more than ever as though my companion of the train was known in Germany, and that while with her in Hamburg I was exempt. The police are friendly. I have no difficulty, but I am told to report again the day before leaving Berlin. My police visits, in themselves, make a story. At each new city you must call on these officials. These gentlemen vary in their interest. Some- times they want your life history, at others ten 119 SHORT EATIONS minutes suffices. The visit of departure is al- ways more trying than that of arrival. Then you must state where you are going, to what hotel, and what your plans are. There is no chance for elopements. A single lady is per- fectly chaperoned. From the police I proceed to the American Embassy. American Embassies in war-time are discouraging places. Their attitude usually is, " Why are you here? You '11 only make us trouble. You 'd better go straight home." However, I have a young friend in the Embassy. I impress upon him the fact that I am not going home. " I shall," I declare, " visit the police regularly, break no rules, cause no trouble, but I 'in in search of the truth, and as a free Ameri- can citizen I mean to talk to every one I can from the Kaiser to Liebknecht." He thinks the Kaiser safer than Liebknecht. " You '11 be watched every moment," he says, "and the au- thorities won't let you see anything they don't want you to." As I leave the Embassy I hesitate. The idea of spies is disconcerting. The first person I want to visit is a woman who is a member of the Social Democratic party. My errand is 120 LIFE IN BERLIN harmless ; she speaks English, and I want her to act as interpreter, and teach me German. I pur- sue a zig-zag course, and having doubled on my tracks, take a taxi to her home. On this occasion I elude pursuit, but to do so continuously is impossible. The funny thing about German spies is that they dress for the part. They are as unmistakable as Sherlock Holmes. They nearly always wear gray clothes, a soft gray hat, are pale-faced, shifty-eyed, smooth-shaven, or have only a slight moustache, and carry canes. One night my friend and I led them a chase about the city until midnight. We jumped from one car to another. It proved an exciting game. Once we went up to a gray-clad man, and asked him if he was n't tired. But spies grow angry when spoken to. German officials have no sense of humor. If they had, I wonder if there would have been a war. I feel very sorry for one spy. He stands on the street corner in the rain one day from three in the afternoon until nine in the evening. I go out periodically to see if he is there. I simply cannot take him seriously. My friend and I get into gales of laughter. I want to go out and in- 121 SHOKT RATIONS vite him in to tea. He looks so miserable. But he would never understand. My friend lives in an apartment house. He probably still does n't know who it is I visit. I insist on relieving his mind. I get my friend to walk with me to the Adlon, so she can be exhibited. She thinks it is dangerous, but we are doing no harm, and surely one cannot be arrested for talking to a Social Democrat! My friend's husband goes ahead to see what fate befalls us. He sits on a bench un- der a big tree directly opposite the hotel en- trance. Sure enough there is a gray-clad spy talking to the hotel porter. As my friend and I ap- proach, the porter jerks the spy's arm. " Here she comes," he says. It is terribly exciting. I feel as important as a heroine in a dime novel. I am almost tempted to enter into some plot. It must be so disappointing to these gentlemen to find me vibrating between the German Red Cross, the poor, and plans for feeding German babies. But before I leave Germany the spies get on my nerves. What was at first amusing becomes a nuisance. I feel exactly as though I am in prison. I acquire the habit of looking out of 122 LIFE IN BEKLIN the corner of my eye and over my shoulder. These spies are as annoying to their countrymen as to me. The people detest them. They grow restless under such suppression. Free conversa- tion is impossible, except behind closed doors. Between German spies and the spies of other countries supposed to be at large, public con- versation is at a standstill. Everywhere are signs — " Soldaten" — "Vorsicht bei gesprochen Spionengefahr" For several days I wander about Berlin letting impressions sink in. There is, as I have said, activity, but it is the activity of a bygone day or a country town. Nowhere are there shining new taxis, prancing horses, and laughing people. The taxis are the refuse from the front. They toss and bump you about. The carriages have been resurrected from the past. The horses are chiefly valuable as a study in bone anatomy. Poor things ! I often gazed in their dinner pails. They never had anything but chopped straw. As for the people, there is a somber grayness about them. They, too, are thin. I didn't see a big girth anywhere. Germany is stomachless. It is n't that people have nothing to eat, but they have too little. The food they have isn't the 123 SHORT RATIONS right kind. During the summer there seemed to be plenty of vegetables, fruit, and a fair supply of black bread, but this without grease, sugar, or meal does not satisfy digestion. It 's like trying to run a wagon without oil. It begins to creak. The German race begins to creak. As a whole, it is pale, thin, and sunken-eyed. Sooner or later a crisis is inevitable. Whether when it comes it will be a uniting of the people with the von Tir- pitz group in ugly retaliation, or an internal awakening and evolution, depends on the atti- tude of the neutrals and the Allies. The sol- diers as well as the civil population suffer. The front line trenches may be well fed, but the men home on leave or in barracks are noticeably thin. They are pale, weary, and without life. They also have no stomachs. There is a popular say- ing among them ; it goes as follows : — Dorrgemiise, Trocken Brot, Marrnelade, Heldentod. which translated reads: Dried vegetables, dry bread, marmalade, and a hero's death. Soldiers are everywhere in Berlin. They are always com- ing and going. The cripples are not allowed 124 LIFE IN BERLIN upon the streets, but nervous wrecks are plenti- ful. In spite of the concealment of the wounded, the population begins to understand its loss. One night I went to the station to see a big de- tachment leave for Wilma. They had all been in war before. Their uniforms were dirty and patched. They sat on benches clinging to a loved one's hand, or stood in listless groups. No one talked. They were like tired children. They needed food and bed. The scenes of farewell were harrowing. Here was a young boy saying good-by to a mother and three aunts. He was all they had — their whole life. Here a father saying farewell to a wife and three sons, all under seventeen. Or a mother in deep mourning taking leave of her last son, or a young wife with a baby in her arms giving a last embrace. As the train moved out of the station there were no shouts, no cheers, no words of encour- agement. Instead there was a deadly silence. The men leaned out of windows, stretching de- spairing hands towards loved ones. As the train pulled away the little groups broke into strang- ling sobs. They were shaken as by a mighty 127 SHORT RATIONS tempest. Paroxysms of grief rent and tore them. They knew the end had come. A man may go once into battle and return, but not twice and thrice. Life held no hope. As I came away I stopped before the big building which conducts military affairs. It is known as the " House of Sorrow." On its rear wall is posted the list of dead and wounded. The night was dark and still ; by the rays of an electric arc a few stragglers were running anx- ious fingers down the long lists. I stopped to count the number. The report covered five days' casualties (from August 17th to August 21st). Through mistakes names are occasionally re- peated. I dropped out several thousand to al- low for repetitions. Even then the total of dead, wounded, or missing was 44,000 — a city wiped out in five days. The Socialists estimate that two and a half to three million men in Prussia have been killed, wounded, or are missing. No wonder the soldiers are desperate. When the men march to the station on the way to the front, bands play gay national airs to hide the depression. But music cannot cheer — the populace stands silent on the sidewalk. Occa- sionally a tear trickles down a cheek. The sol- 128 LIFE IN BERLIN diers keep eyes front, faces set and rigid. There are no comforting smiles, no cheers, no waving hands. One evening at midnight as I cross the Thier- garten I pass a small procession of new recruits. Midnight, mj friend tells me, is the favorite hour for seizing fresh food for cannon. There is some- thing sinister in choosing dark hours, when the city sleeps, for this deed. On this occasion the recruits number a hundred or two. Their ages vary. They might be fathers and sons. Such is the fate of the men, nor is life any better for the women. They are to be seen every- where. In the streets digging and cleaning sewers. On the road with pick-ax and shovel, helping Russian prisoners relay railroad tracks. In the subways, clad in bloomers, acting as train starters. On the trams, wearing husband's mo- tor cap and coat. At night they come home to hungry children and empty larders. Their tiny savings go for bread and potatoes. The day laborers cannot frequent city feeding kitchens. They cannot afford it. Berlin prepared to feed 35,000. Last winter 13,000 ate at the kitchens. In summer the number decreased to 8000. The meal served is a pint bowl of food, which is a 129 SHORT RATIONS cross between soup and stew. It contains pota- toes, barley, rye, vegetables, or anything to be had, and on the meat days some odds-and-ends of meat. A bowl-ful is 10 cents, a half-bowl 6 cents. A mother earning 40 to 60 cents a day cannot pay 10 cents a head for food. It is the bourgeois class that patronize the kitchens. I visited these feeding stations. A large cen- tral market turned into a kitchen prepares the food. Here are big vats — in which the food is steamed or boiled in bulk. From here the cooked product is sent to feeding stations in different localities. Women of means preside over these places, and conduct them well. The stewed mass is usually very eatable. Such places are a Godsend to the middle class, the small store-keepers, whose business has failed, clerks, and stenographers, but for the un- skilled laborer the price is prohibitive. These places do not accommodate many at a time, for people come and go. At noon I watched a little stream move in and out. They were all comfort- ably dressed. They paused to have their cards punched — potatoes, bread, meat, flour, accord- ing to what that day's bowl contained. As I looked my eye was caught by two small 130 LIFE IN BERLIN children. They had crept in the big door and sat on a bench side by side, hand in hand. The elder, a boy of eleven, was clad in ragged, dirty coat and trousers. His face was streaked with dirt, save for spots here and there cleansed by falling tears. A small sister of five snuggled up to him. She too possessed only a boy's ragged, dirty coat and trousers. Her face was smudged with black, but it was rounder, with more color than the boy's. Her baby eyes were a shining blue. She seemed to rest serene in her brother's care. It was evident the lad was fight- ing manfully for his little sister. The boy's face was pinched and blue and lined with an- guish. I called the attention of the women workers to the children. " They are probably waiting for scraps of food. We '11 give them something by and by," I was told. " But," I protested, " those children are suffering." With the aid of a friendly policeman I got their story. These were their answers. " Hungry — terribly hungry. Mother dead ; father in the war ; had no home, slept anywhere; ate anything." I dropped some money in the boy's hand. His little claw-like fingers snatched eagerly 131 SHORT RATIONS at mine. I can feel their touch yet. Then he slid from the bench, and started for the door. But by this time the women workers had joined me. " Go, get in line, and you can have some food," they ordered. The boy hid his money be- neath his coat, and ran at full speed toward the steaming food. Behind him came the tiny sister, her naked baby feet flying after his, her tiny baby hand clutching the end of his ragged jacket. I turned away ; I could n't bear to see them eat. God pity us ; why must such suffering be? Prob- ably there are as many children in New York and London without any food as in Berlin. The tragedy of Germany is not quick starvation for a few; it is the under-feeding of a whole race. Mothers and babies are gradually going down hill. Everywhere the signs of decline are manifest. In the windows of houses, on the front of empty stores, are great signs : " Zu Vermieten " ( To Let). For years merchants have been fighting for vacancies on the big thoroughfares of popu- lar Berlin. Now they are to be had everywhere. In the stations and amusement-halls stand empty chocolate slots. So long have they been empty that children are no longer beguiled into 132 LIFE IN BERLIN dropping in a penny in the hope of extracting something. One Sunday I went to the Zoological Garden, the popular resort of the masses. A band or two still played, but the grounds were not half- filled. Everywhere were vacant tables, where formerly it was a privilege to secure one. Little family groups in black sat silently before a lonely glass of beer. Sandwiches were a rarity. The ices seemed to be made of colored frozen perfumes, and were distressing internally. In the iron cages there were a few animals. Whether they have decreased in number I can- not tell. But they, like the people, suffer from a scanty diet. The monkeys have grown con- tentious. Their tempers suffer. They raised a most terrific racket, and continually bit and clawed and fought each other. Ironic laughter seized me. They were so human. I fell to won- dering whether mankind was copying them or they mankind. The two or three lions in the outdoor cages were lean and restless. They crouched and growled or paced feverishly up and down. There was none of the lazy indifference seen in fat cir- cus-fed animals. 133 SHORT RATIONS In a flash they revealed the change in Ger- many. Before the war, under a benevolent pa- ternalism, the people grew round of girth. Re- plete with good food and flowing beer, feet and brains lagged. It is hard to be discontented and progressive when the stomach is full and the land flows with milk and honey. But with suffering a new race is emerging — a lean race with active minds that begins to question Ger- man autocracy and militarism. As I left the Zoological Garden a small boy passed me. In loud tones, boastfully and with unction, he declared to two enwrapped, envious listeners: "And I had a piece of fat for din- ner," raising his fingers to measure, " it was so big, and juicy." To an observant person three things are every- where in evidence, telling an unmistakable story. The flat stomachs, the endless signs, " To Let," and the empty chocolate slots. The German race is surely sliding down hill. What shall the world do? Shall it stand idly by, or shall it stretch out a hand of sympathy and under- standing to these troubled people and help them free themselves from the domination of a mili- tary group they begin to despise? The people 134 LIFE IN BERLIN do not wish to be ugly. They do not believe in a Von Tirpitz submarine policy, but if England and France insist on smashing and crushing the German nation, where is their hope? What is left but ugly retaliation. We are not yet an- gels ! 135 CHAPTER IV THE POOD RIOTS AND THE POTATO LINE IS Germany efficient? The world shouts, " Yes." But there is more than one kind of efficiency. This is a true story told me by a friend of Frau Bunker. Frau Dunker is a working woman. She works early and late. She has no time for frivolity. Shopping is a luxury. But Frau Bunker's stockings had given out. They had holes past mending. She must have new ones. Cheap stockings require a Government card. Silk stockings can be had without. But silk stockings are not in Frau Bunker's class. Grumblingly she gets her clothes card. She leaves the factory at noon, and spends the lunch hour in search. She finds the needed stockings, but at twice their former price. She carefully notes store and price. The adventure in stock- ings has only begun. The next step is a visit to the police. In the evening, weary with work, 136 FOOD KIOTS AND THE POTATO LINE she waits her turn in line. At last her name is called. She receives a certificate of identifi- cation stating she is Frau Dunker, and lives in Martin Lutherstrasse. Armed with this she next proceeds to a city magistrate. Again she waits her turn, but eventually reaches the au- gust presence. The interview is touching. The magistrate doubts her necessity. She removes her shoes and exhibits naked toes, protruding through gaping holes. She tells the dispenser of stockings that the articles are to be had at such a store for such a price. Grudgingly the magistrate gives an order for two pairs. Thus equipped with identification certificate and mag- istrate's order, Frau Dunker proceeds to her purchase. Fortunately, the stockings desired are still to be had. Had they been sold, and a different kind purchased, the red tape must all be unraveled again. Frau Dunker goes home that night muttering : " Curses on the military. Next time I won't buy stockings. I '11 let my feet get sore. Then the Government must care for me." Is this efficient? Is there not such a thing as over-organization? Suppose the police, the mag- istrates, card indexers, and idle rich were set 137 SHORT RATIONS to making stockings. Might there not be enough to go around? Germany abounds in red tape. I struggled desperately to reach Germany's poor. I wanted to expend the money given me by the Christian Work Fund properly. But of- ficial Germany denies its poor and hides them. The officials of the Relief Organizations were very kindly and very appreciative, but they in- sisted on showing me card catalogues and pamphlets, and on discussing organization in- stead of producing hungry babies. I flatly re- fused to spend money on cataloguing. One day I was told I should see suffering babies and Germany's care. In different districts Berlin has centers for babies. Here children are brought to be tested. I reached one of these offices at 2.30 one afternoon. Two is the open- ing hour. There were no babies. I found a doctor, two white-clad nurses, three beautifully- equipped rooms, and row upon row of index cards. Just as I was departing, one quite nor- mal-looking baby arrived. The doctor reported the baby's condition as satisfactory. My lack of success discouraged me. I ap- pealed to a woman social -worker. " Very well," she said ; " I '11 show you what is happening." 138 FOOD RIOTS AND THE POTATO LINE She took me to the north of Berlin. There lit- tle children swarmed, dirty, ragged, barefooted, and pale. This is a new state of affairs for Germany. Heretofore there has always been at least potatoes and clothes. No one has gone hungry. Paternalism flourishes only when the family is fed. When father fails to furnish food the children rebel. The spirit of rebellion is abroad in Germany. We visited several tene- ments. The following is a typical family. A mother, nine children, and grandmother, two rooms and a kitchen. Father in the war, in- come 144 marks ($36) a month ; rent, $7 a month. This mother could not afford to eat at a feeding kitchen. One meal at ten cents a head meant $1.20. The baby was six months old. It had what is termed " the English sickness." It was weak from lack of nourishment. It could not raise its arms. Since September 1st only chil- dren under six are allowed milk. The allowance is a pint a day. Not enough to nourish a baby. This family was living on tea and potatoes. We visited many families. I could not but admire my companion. She was very proud, but tears ran down her cheeks. She belonged to the official class. She adored Germany, and 139 SHORT RATIONS held every German act right, yet her heart bled for her people. Vainly she was trying to stem the tide. She dashed her tears aside to say: " Do you wonder German women are bitter? But England shall not bring us to our knees, rather we will give our last baby first." At every home I insisted on laying in sui> plies. But there was little to buy. Nothing with substance — no meal. We had to be con- tent with pudding powder (Heaven knows what that is), tea "Ersatz," and some canned goods. My companion had succeeded in getting some packages of meal from the Government. When she produced one of these the family went mad with joy. Quaker oats are more precious to mothers than diamonds. The thing that is needed is food — not money. But I gave my companion some money from the Christian Work Fund. " Buy things that are going to the rich and give them to the poor," I said. I knew now what was most needed. It was milk for babies. I dislike quoting figures, but a trustworthy and well-informed Social Demo- crat told me that in the big hospitals for babies the increase in mortality was 50 per cent. In the German papers were printed the following 140 FOOD RIOTS AND THE POTATO LINE statistics in regard to the Children's Hospital in Berlin. In the first three days, 1912-1913 — ninety-three died. In the first three days 1914 to 1915, 160 died. I consulted Dr. Kim- mule, the head of the German Red Cross in Ber- lin, about securing milk. He thought the best investment goats. More money had come from the Christian Work Fund, and I turned over 4,000 marks (roughly, because of depreciation, about $800), with which to buy goats for the north of Berlin. The wealthy agrarian who sold the goats asked 150 marks ($37.50) a goat. Ordinarily, the price is 30 marks, or $5.50 per goat. Was this German agrarian patriotic or efficient? He made money out of the necessity of German babies. Why did the Government permit it? Was it efficient? Does Germany handle its food supply efficiently? The following items are to be had only with Government cards: Bread, meat, potatoes, but- ter, sugar, cheese, milk, eggs, meal, flour, soap, and cheap clothes. Each person has to trade at the store assigned. Working people have to buy during noon and evening hours. This re- sults in long lines in front of every shop at twelve and at six. 141 SHORT RATIONS One Saturday evening I went to a big market in the poor quarter of Berlin. This market covers an entire block. In it are sold meat, gro- ceries, and dairy products. I arrived at six. There was little meat visible. At one booth a butcher presided over a wholly empty counter. A little old woman stood before him weeping bitterly. Between sobs she let out a torrent of words. This is what she said : " I must have some fat" — sob — "I haven't had meat or fat for three weeks." Sob, sob, sob. " My stomach has turned against marmalade " — sob — " I can't live on it any longer." Sob, and indig- nantly : " It 's no use telling me to come earlier before the meat 's gone. I can't come earlier. I have to work until six." I pulled my companion's sleeve : " Look ! " I said, " There 's meat on that other counter ; could n't we buy some? " But no, of course not ; the little old woman could only get meat with her meat card from her particular butcher. This time it was I who said : " Curses on the mili- tary." Conspicuously over many counters flapped the sign, " Ersatz." " Ersatz " means substitute. Sausage Ersatz was a pale edition of the real article. One's speculations run riot. 142 FOOD EIOTS AND THE POTATO LINE But there were few meat purchasers. The people were out for potatoes. The potato coun- ter was as bad as a bargain day in a department store. At six o'clock there was a line stretching through the entire market and far out into the street. At least two thousand people were in line. I stood and watched for three hours, and the line never decreased. As fast as some left, others arrived. There were old men and women, mothers with babies and tiny children clinging to their skirts, and young children carrying huge baskets. The crowd swayed and muttered. It stood on one foot and then on the other. Women who had worked all day looked ready to drop with fatigue. At the counter three or four women employees were dealing out potatoes and punching cards as rapidly as possible. Occa- sionally little commotions broke the monotony. Once a baby cried. We hurried toward the sound. In a baby carriage a tiny creature sobbed drearily. Standing beside the carriage and clinging tight to the baby was a five-year- old, also weeping. Brother, twelve years old, had been standing in line three hours for his potatoes. Meanwhile, the babies had grown hungry. They had had nothing to eat since 143 SHORT RATIONS noon. Some kindly women gave them bread, which was devoured eagerly. Presently mother arrived, just released from the factory. She was tired and worn. She shook and scolded brother for being so slow. Then the little procession moved off, the babies, the little boy, all dirty, ragged, and barefooted, and the worn mother, with a bag of potatoes between them. All they had. Father was in the war. Once I left the market and went with my friend to sit on a street bench near by. Close to us was a pale, sickly man and his wife and child. "Have you your potatoes?" we inquired. " No," was the reply, " but grandmother is stand- ing in line. It 's going to be all right to-night. Last Saturday we waited three hours. Then we had n't any. They 'd given out." " What did you do?" we gasped. Quietly, without bitter- ness, came the answer: "We went hungry, of course." We went back to the market. There was still the same line, but the crowd was getting rest- less. A rumor was afloat that the potatoes were giving out. Women began to talk in angry tones. Then an amusing incident occurred. A patient horse hitched to a delivery wagon had 144 FOOD RIOTS AND THE POTATO LINE been standing among the people. Little chil- dren came to pat and stroke his nose. He seemed the mildest of creatures. Then came the report about the potatoes. The crowd began to mutter. An officious policeman began to shove the people back. His tones were angry, his manner far from gentle. As he passed the horse, the creature seemed to bristle. Its meekness vanished, and throwing up its head, it gave the officer a vicious nip. A little cheer broke from the crowd. The horse was so human. It had so expressed the multitude. The officer was furious. He spat upon the animal, and hit him in the face. In a moment children were crowd- ing around and again patting the horse's nose. All the creature's meekness returned. But the crowd w T as angry. Some women shook their fists. Then a whisper passed along the line. More potatoes had arrived. A huge w T agon-full stood outside. Only this word prevented a riot. The crowd settled down; peace came again. Nothing would happen that night. It was nine o'clock. My friend and I were weary, and we left. Is such food distribution efficient? The agra- rians are asking about one and one-half cents a 145 SHOKT RATIONS pound for potatoes. Three times the pre-war price. They wanted to raise the cost to three cents, but the Government set the limit at a cent and a half. Out of revenge the agrarians sent the worst potatoes to Berlin. Germany cannot afford to have one worker starve. Why not seize agrarian land, and set officials and card indexers to raising potatoes? It would be more profitable to pay them for such work than^ard for cataloguing. Why bother with cards? Why not establish eating kitchens, and let everybody who is hungry eat at meal times? Card cataloguing might be used to see that each one worked. But both rich and poor could be given food at Government kitchens, and share and share alike. The wealthy people do not stand in line. Their servants do this for them. Besides, chick- ens and birds at high prices are to be had without cards. The egg allowance is one a week. But for the wealthy this also is a farce. I grew egg hungry, and demanded two one week, but the waiter was adamant. " Well," I grinned, " I know what I '11 do ; I '11 buy some live chickens and keep them in my room, then I can have eggs every morning for breakfast. Actually the 146 FOOD RIOTS AND THE POTATO LINE waiter laughed. Seriously, that chicken idea is not bad. If Mme. Hempel had taken chickens and a goat to Germany with her this summer, in- stead of her lap dog, she would have been very popular. This idea is not patented, and I recom- mend it to all travelers in Germany. In the big cities conditions are worse than in the country. Farmers are expected to pool and sell their supplies of milk, butter, and eggs, but, naturally, they hold back enough for their chil- dren. There is no way of knowing how much milk each cow gives each day unless the German army was retired from the field to do the milking, and report to the Government. Even German organization cannot brook this. One farmer I discovered greasing the wheels of his wagon with home-made butter. The price of butter is kept at a fixed rate. Oil was so expensive he could n't afford it. Soap was not on the card list until late August. Fat had been under control for months, but the Government forgot soap was grease. Now one cake a month is the allowance. The ante-war soap is very expensive. I paid 50 cents for a 15 cent cake. The soap made since the war is atrocious. I asked the Social Democrats about the food 147 SHORT RATIONS riots. They occurred, I was told, chiefly in the spring, when the potatoes gave out. In Ham- burg the women ran straight on the soldiers' bay- onets in the struggle for food, and several were killed. The following day, Sunday, the Govern- ment had to throw open the Hamburg provision stores, and let the people buy to restore peace. Berlin has had several riots, In some cities women have been shot. " It is quite easy to start rebellion," said, a Social Democrat to me. " Several times we went to the market and urged the crowd to riot. But we stopped, for women were put in prison and the children left desti- tute." But when there are no potatoes there will be riots. As long as there is food for the children, however inadequate, the women keep quiet. Their hearts are sore, but they dare not rebel. They fear the fate that may befall their husbands at the front, if they make trouble. Or, if the husband is wounded, they fear he will not be well cared for. Or they fear their children will be taken from them. But these women when spoken to look wise and say: "Wait until our men come back from the front, then you '11 see." The German Government is headed for dis- 148 FOOD EIOTS AND THE POTATO LINE aster, because it has failed to distinguish between two kinds of efficiency — personal efficiency and industrial efficiency. Human beings cannot be treated like machines. It does not make them efficient. The world would do well to copy Ger- many's industrial efficiency. German hotels, railroads, cars, and factories are the best of their kind. But Germany's attempt to apply her sys- tem to individuals is creating havoc. Human beings are efficient when they are imaginative, original, and uncrushable. That is why France has out-shone all other belligerents. Her people can turn a shirt-waist factory into a munition factory overnight. Germany would spend three months cataloguing and drawing plans. Eng- land would be too bound by tradition and custom to make such an adjustment. She would build a new factory. A year ago, I nursed the wounded French sol- diers. They could discuss anything from femi- nism to American politics. The German com- mon soldier dares talk only what he has been taught. The English " Tommy " is too stolid to talk of anything. Under paternalism we feed, clothe, and spank our babies, and they may become good-natured, 149 SHORT RATIONS obedient, and cultured people. But if the roof blows off the house and the children are thrust out to meet bears and snakes undirected, they are helpless. There is only one real preparedness, and that is preparation for life. That is to be had, not by drill and obedience, but by learning self-con- trol through self-government. Only people who do their own thinking and steering have value. When children have become efficient, put them together to learn united action. The force of thinking people, acting as one, is gigantic. Sec- retary Daniels talks of introducing self-govern- ment into the American Navy. Self-government has proved a successful method of dealing with convicts. It is a method that will be even more vaulable for the ordinary citizen. If the Ameri- can Navy becomes really self-governing, its effi- ciency will make the English Navy look tired. The wonder of the world is not Germany or England, but France. Germany in years of preparation built up an army, and laid in food and munitions for two years. But the two 1 years is up, and the nation begins to crack and crumble. France, on the other hand, in spite of the strain, is still active and vividly alive. Her 150 FOOD RIOTS AND THE POTATO LINE people, undrilled in obedience, but strong in per- sonal efficiency, have stood together as one man. Slowly the German people are disintegrating. In March or April, if not before, unless securing the food supply in Rournania puts off the evil day, the potatoes will give out, and there will be riots. When this occurs, if Lloyd George is still making speeches about crushing Germany, the German militarists by these speeches may drive the people together in a campaign of desperation and horror. Belgians will be seized and abused, submarine terrors multiplied. But if a hand of sympathy is extended to the German worker, he will riot, not against mankind, but against his own Government. Militarism will be over- thrown. Now is the critical moment. Ought Ave not to aid the awakened, struggling German in his fight against Imperialism? 151 CHAPTER V SIGNS OF UNREST AND REBELLION I HAD been in Berlin two weeks. I wanted to see other portions of Germany. I learned there was to be an official tour for journalists. I went to the German Press Bureau. " Could I visit some prison camps? " I inquired. " If you let me and I find they are good, I should be glad to say so." The young man in charge of the German Press is keenly intelligent. He repre- sented the civil authorities — the Von Hollweg group. There is a vast difference between the civil and military authorities. The civil are much more liberal. They are eager to send news to America. I was told of a nine-day tour which included a visit to two prison camps, and invited to join the expedition. These trips are magnificent feats in German propaganda. . An intelligent director conducts a group of report- ers through the country. All expenses are paid and the journalists feted and feasted. It is hard 152 SIGNS OF UNREST AND REBELLION to view Germany impartially when fed on cham- pagne. I delayed my departure for a day. It was the moment of the Liebnecht trial and I wished to be present in case of an uprising". Also by this postponement, I avoided the special car assigned to journalists and could pay my own railroad fare to Karlsruhe. Berlin had been very interesting. I was loath to leave. As I came back to the Adlon for afternoon tea there was a great crowd around the entrance. A person in much gold braid and military trappings stood in the hallway. A hushed awe pervaded the place. Even the Amer- ican reporters were humbly cringing in corners. The royal princess was upstairs. She and others of the nobility were on their way to a funeral. A Russian officer, who had intermarried with the German nobility, had been killed at the front, and the relatives were attending his funeral. Having had tea and readjusted their veils, the royal party descended. The ladies were in deep- est mourning, their veils so thick that not a speck of face was visible. A sacred circle surrounded them, into which no one stepped. The crowd was pushed back. Carlyle and his clothes theory flashed upon me. These people were just a 153 SHORT RATIONS bundle of clothes. How much heart and brain lay beneath. If only one could dress royalty in bathing suits, it would be easier to form esti- mates. Outside were shining carriages, fat and prancing horses (the only fat horses in Berlin) and spick and span liveried servants. A silent crowd watched the entrance into the coaches. But it pressed up close to this bit of luxury. I w r ondered if the princess through her black veil could see the pale, thin faces peering in the carriage windows. Next day was the Liebknecht trial. No paper announced it, but word had been passed to me by the Social Democrats. That day I was up early. I took a taxi and drove 'round and 'round the big grim barracks where Liebknecht was said to be imprisoned. But all was still. No crowd gathered. There was no royal ceremonial for this brave spirit. Bitterly disappointed by the lack of demonstration, I sought out some Social Democrats. They were Liebknecht's intimate friends. I took two taxis and three electric trams to elude spies, jumping from one to an- other. These radicals were as disappointed as I that nothing had occurred. The factory workers were to have made a protest. A large body was 154 SIGNS OF UNREST AND REBELLION to have gone on strike. A little leaflet stating time and place for the demonstration was to have been distributed. But the leaflet failed to arrive. A big package reached Berlin, but when opened it contained a soldier's uniform. The Government had gotten wind of the plot and seized the leaflets, substituting the uniform. No one dared make inquiries. It would have meant imprisonment. Few people outside Germany know of the ex- tensive revolt carried on by the radicals. The day of Liebknecht's imprisonment 5500 workers in one munition factory alone, just outside Ber- lin, went on strike for the entire day. There were similar protests throughout the country. A detailed statement was given me but I dared not carry such literature about. The Liebknecht following grows. The workers more and more flock to his standard to the infi- nite dissatisfaction of the major wing of the Social Democratic party. The demonstration that caused Liebknecht's arrest will go down in history. Several thousand were gathered in Leipsicerstrasse and Potsdamerplatz. They had come to talk peace. But when Liebknecht ap- peared a mighty shout went up from a thousand 155 SHORT RATIONS throats. " Hurrah for Liebknecht." Liebknecht raised his hand for silence. Then steadily, though knowing the cost, he said : " Do not shout for me, shout rather we will have no more war. We will have peace — now." Two young women standing near pulled his sleeve. " Don't," they begged ; " it means the end for you." But the crowd had taken up the cry. "We will have peace now." It went echoing down the street in a mighty roar. Police were already at Liebknecht's side. He smiled at the young women and said : " Never mind ; I am the best victim." But he was not the only victim. The two young women who had never before met Liebknecht and had taken no part in the demon- stration are to-day also in prison. The number in prison is astounding. In Stuttgart 400 are serving terms. There are cor- responding numbers in all big cities, but I can- not be sure enough of my memory to quote accur- ately. But these victims are not suffering in vain. The military authorities clap every Lieb- knecht radical behind the bars, but they cannot stop the growing popular demand for peace. They dare not. The major wing of the Social Democratic party have taken advantage of this. 156 SIGNS OF UNREST AND REBELLION Throughout Germany under their auspices peace meetings are being held. Everywhere people are signing a petition for peace, on the basis of status quo before the war. As long as the de- mands are kept to this, peace meetings are toler- ated. Not to permit them would be fatal. There is a low, ominous murmur rising from the people. Most of the leaders in Liebknecht groups are in prison, but the followers fight on. No longer openly because they fear prison, but quietly and insidiously. Gradually they are spreading re- volt among the workers. The spirit of freedom is abroad in Germany. It can never again be wholly crushed. Present among the group of Social Democrats with whom I talked was the young daughter of a prominent member. Her father is at the front. He was snatched up and sent there despite all protest. " Thank God, I 'ni near-sighted," he said ; " naturally, I will never kill any one, and my failure to land a bullet may be mistaken for bad eyesight, in which case I will get back to you." His sixteen-year-old daughter is as vivid and radiant as a spring morning. She is in the thick of the work her father left. Not long ago 157 SHORT RATIONS she and 500 young people, boys and girls, be- tween the ages of thirteen and twenty had a demonstration. It was a holiday and they went to the country for a day of comradeship. To- ward evening, when the setting sun added its glow to those young and fearless faces ; they came marching back along the country road singing " The Marseillaise." Over them they bore a banner which read : " We are the advance guard of the proletariat." They passed only one police- man on their entry into the city. He was help- less before this indomitable five hundred. He could make no arrests, but he ordered them to dis- band. Many of the young girls were clad in gymnasium costume. The policeman was horri- fied. In factories and subways everywhere women wear bloomers, but this shocked police- man, shuddered to see young girls with pigtails so clad. The young crowd surrounded the of- ficer gaily. Laughter was on their lips, humor shone in their eyes, as they gave out wrong names and wrong addresses. For a painful hour with furrowed brow the worried official wrote busily. To this day he is still hunting for those unlady- like House-Fraus. It was with reluctance I took leave of this lit- 158 SIGNS OF UNREST AND REBELLION tie radical group. It was late evening when I reached the Adlon. A spirit of excitement and tenseness pervaded the street. It had all day. Policemen lurked on every corner. An unusual number of spies were abroad. It was evident the Government feared an uprising. But it had planned a judicious stroke. For some time there had been rumors that the Deutschland was back in Bremen. But if it was, the Government sup- pressed the fact. It kept that sugar plum for a psychological moment. This evening, when all thoughts were centered on Liebnecht's fate, seemed the needed moment. As I came down " Unter den Linden," a news sheet was slipped in my hand. These leaflets were being distributed broadcast gratis by the " Berliner Morgen Post." In splashing black letters across the page was, " U Boat Deutschland eingetrofen An Bord Alles Wohl." A little thrill coursed through me. It was magnetic and contagious. Life and color came to the eye of the spy, pedestrian and soldier alike. This was a deed of which all Germany could be proud. It bound all together. Temporarily steps grew light and heads went up. It was interesting to note the difference in effect produced by this 159 BERLINER, 0R0ENP05F 3>Wr afe 400.000 ^ottttenfen u-Bool JeaWanb" cingeitoifen Sremeit, 33* 2fepff 1916. ©igeaet £>taftkit!fct „Deu«sclilaiid« ift fyttit i>w Ut S&efetf* jjiHsifcstKg ctftgeftHitmctt ttttfc Ij&t Sioti Utiles g$* &jwfe5t* $lo S&atfe ©06§ tttgljlt — ESSg55Mrta5555n5nm3gZSBC3 """" A. facsimile of the handbill circulated in Berlin the evening the Deutschland reached Bremen for the first time. 160 SIGNS OF UNREST AND REBELLION news and that of the sinking of the Lusitania. I was in Berlin a year ago, just after the Lusi- tania disaster. Then the crowd was excited, angry, and sullen, doggedly determined to make the world think that act justifiable. But no pride shone from eyes. But the Deutschland news was different. It was as though a great gust of self-respect had flooded the nation. Next morning hidden in the back sheets of the papers was a tiny paragraph of six lines announcing Liebknecht had been sentenced to four years' im- prisonment at hard labor. But sprawled over the entire paper in great black letters was the Deutschland' s story. It was hard to riot against a Government that had just done something of which all were proud. I left in the early morning. I was to make a side trip and visit a home for Avar-orphans be- fore joining the touring expedition. During my entire stay in Berlin I had clamored to see homes for war-orphans, without success. Either there were none near Berlin or they were not for in- spection. But I was told a model institution had just been established outside Leipsic. This I should see. After traveling from 7.30 until. 4, and taking five trains, I was presented to twenty - 161 SHOET RATIONS five war-orphans. My temper, I confess, was ruffled. I had seen hundreds of index cards de- scribing destitute children, and now after a strenuous day twenty-five " kiddies " were ex- hibited. There can be no doubt it was a model institution. It was a farm situated among hills with well-equipped buildings. The institution served two purposes: it trained hospital nurses and these women during their training cared for the children. The nurses were kindly. It was evident they did their best for their charges. One group of three little sisters had lost a father at the front, and their mother, an actress, had gone insane from grief. The only criticism I had to make was that the children, regardless of par- entage or inclination, were all being trained for domestic service. Germany's relentless methods of education are often appalling. I came across one very distressing example. At the beginning of the war German refugees, mothers and children in other lands, were al- lowed to return to the Fatherland, while the men were interned in the enemy's country. Frequently these mothers and babies had no money. When this was the case the German Government assigned the mothers work in dif- 162 SIGNS OF UNREST AND REBELLION ferent places and put their children in institu- tions. Many a mother to-day is a broken wreck in a hospital through loss of husband and chil- dren. I protested vigorously at this separation of families, but the authorities assured me it had to be. They said, " When we kept mothers and children together, the mothers quarreled and it made too much trouble." The real truth of the matter, I fear, is that Ger- many wanted to train the boys in one institution to be soldiers and the girls in another to be do- mestic servants. I make this statement advisedly because it is corroborated by another incident. I had seen how the poor suffered for lack of food. I knew if babies with adoring mothers and soldiers with devoted wives went hungry, unloved war-or- phans had no chance in the struggle. The suffering of destitute children haunted me until an idea came. No one in the world could willingly want babies to starve. The thing to do was to charter big ocean steamers, gather up hungry children, and bring them to America. In America we could feed and clothe them until the war was over. No nation on earth would 163 SHORT RATIONS dare molest such a shipload. Rick Americans, I felt sure, could be counted on to finance the scheme. I went to the German Red Cross authorities with my plan. I was given great praise for my kindly intention, but the authorities were ada- mant. Starving or not, German babies must be educated in Germany. Only one kind of educa- tion was adequate — German education. A year of American training was not to be toler- ated. But such an attitude is sheer madness. I told many German workers about my project. As their children slip down hill from want of nour- ishment, they will rise in wrath against a Gov- ernment that refused such aid. After two hours in the orphans' home I de- parted. With the aid of two more trains I reached Leipsic. Here I had a solitary dinner in a big empty hotel. The dinner consisted of chicken and a baked apple, and two almost white rolls presented to me by the orphan asylum. At midnight I took the train for Karlsruhe. I had supposed I was boarding a sleeper, but I had to change cars at one-thirty a. m. This first train was bound for the Western 164 SIGNS OF UNREST AND REBELLION front. It was packed with soldiers. An officer hearing my bad German was inclined to ques- tion me and be over-friendly, but he soon de- sisted. In my compartment were three soldiers and a merchant. Soldiers rarely have the lux- ury of sleepers. So they lowered the light and crouched down in their corners, prepared to sleep. It was a weird sensation being flung so closely against this evidence of war. By the tiny gleam of light I could just see the outline of those mili- tary figures and the knives sticking in each boot. I fell to wondering how many stabs each knife had given. It was a relief an hour and a half later to change trains. The next morning, somewhat weary, I arrived at my destination. I had been on nine trains the preceding day to see twenty-five war orphans. My party was out when I reached the hotel. They were viewing the monuments of Karlsruhe. It was with relief that I settled down into the at- tractive room assigned. I foresaw it would be restful to have every act prearranged by others. I was dressing for lunch when I heard a great commotion. German life is so dull these days 165 SHORT RATIONS that anything causes excitement. There was a great clattering of hoofs. That in itself was unusual. I hurried to the window. Coming down the square was row on row of open car- riages. Barefooted children were running be- side them. It must be at least the royal ruler of the Duchy of Baden, I thought. But no, the carriages were stopping in front of the hotel. They were old-fashioned affairs, pulled by resur- rected white horses. On the boxes sat aged little men in uniforms many sizes too large. Their silk hats came down over their ears. Then I chortled with glee. Yes — it was — our party of nineteen scrubby reporters. All this pomp and ceremony was for us. I felt like Alice in Wonderland transformed into the Red Queen. The gaping populace stood about, while the press alighted with all the dig- nity they could muster. It was funny and tragic. Germany had no one else to entertain and we were treated like royalty. Downstairs all was commotion. An elaborate luncheon was being prepared. The Chamber of Commerce was entertaining us. There were two gentlemen to each reporter. An excuse for a big meal is a godsend to-day. 166 SIGNS OF UNREST AND REBELLION These gentlemen had spared no expense. We had seven or eight courses ; two or three kinds of wine, including champagne. We ate for over two hours. It seemed cruel when I remembered Germany's poor. That long swaying line of people in the north of Berlin, struggling for potatoes. Yet it was impossible to be angry with the Chamber of Commerce. These gentlemen were so kindly, so childlike in their obvious desire to be friends with people from neutral lands. Gracious speeches were made which I did not understand. Perhaps it was well I did n't, for I could clink glasses and drink to unknown toasts. But all the time my heart ached for the hungry people outside and the following ques- tions never ceased to torment me. If the war kept on wouldn't the radicals at the front and the radicals in prison be killed and starved while the military leaders and the jingoes which the world professed to hate be kept intact? Did n't the German military authorities want the war to continue until all the strong men were killed, so they could browbeat and discipline the young boys and women left and build up a more power- ful military autocracy than ever? But if peace 167 SHORT RATIONS came, if the men came back, if suffering human- ity came together, what would happen then? Wouldn't that be death to militarism? Didn't the militarists fear that moment? My mind painted a picture. I knew what would happen. I saw them, the young guard of the proletariat, indomitable groups of five hundred, marching from every corner of Ger- many to the palace gates. Yes, if peace comes before death, the Govern- ment will have to pay. 168 CHAPTER VI A TOUR FOR JOURNALISTS — PRISON CAMPS AND HOSPITALS September, 1916. THE official tour for journalists began its sight seeing in Karlsruhe. It was under direction of a Herr Dr. Shoemacher. Journal- ists from neutral countries were to be shown the greatness of Germany. All expenses were paid. There were nineteen press representatives, in- cluding myself: four women and fifteen men. We came from Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Hol- land, Switzerland, Spain, and America. The one other American was a woman who lives in Germany and writes for the "New York Journal." Some of us were quite scrubby. But several of the gentlemen had dress suits and nearly all clean collars. I had a mussy evening dress creased from a steady traveling in a hand bag, but the other American lady blossomed out in a black silk. 169 SHORT RATIONS At first it was a little difficult to live up to our surroundings. No money was spared for our entertainment. We traveled in a special car. Carriages and taxis resurrected from the past met us at the station and conducted us to expensive hotels. But one quickly learns to be autocratic. In a day even the gentleman without a clean collar was critical if he had n't a private bath. The moment of descent on a new city was thrilling. As the train drew in to the station, lined up on the platform would be a group of prominent citizens, retired generals, covered with gold braid and medals, wealthy merchants, the Bur- germaster and Ober-Burgermaster, and other city officials, w T hile the populace crowded in the background. At such moments I descended from the train as graciously as I could and extended my hand. Often I had it kissed. It was diffi- cult to remember we were only reporters. After luncheon in Karlsruhe, given by the Chamber of Commerce, at which champagne was served, we were all very friendly. At three we set off for the crippled soldiers' hospital at Et- tlingen. With a private car we reached that sub- urb in a few moments. As we walked through 170 A TOUR FOR JOURNALISTS the village streets headed by distinguished-look- ing generals, dirty half-naked, underfed children sprawled on doorsteps, and through an open door of a big building I saw a long line of patient peo- ple buying potatoes. The Lazarette for armless and legless men is impressive. It has a great stretch of open ground and many well-equipped buildings. The first room we entered contained surgical appliances. Suspended in each machine was a man. One hung by his shoulders having his neck stretched. Another lay face downward having a leg pulled. A third endured the twist- ing of a thumb and hand. Many of the patients were white with pain, beads of perspiration stood upon their foreheads. I shrank back. It was like entering Mme. Tussand's chamber of hor- rors, only these were living men, not wax figures. But the military doctors were urging us forward. With great pride they exhibited their inventions. It was the machine that counted. But I looked in the men's faces. Their expressions varied. Sometimes it was patient endurance, but often I saw anger and resentment. Much of interest was shown. At one time we were treated to a circus performance. A squad 171 SHOKT RATIONS of one-legged men was called to do dumb-bell ex- ercises. Nearly all kept their balance, only one or two lurched and tottered. Then a group of armless or one-armed men were made to jump wooden horses and do kindred stunts. " Don't the men object to being exhibited? " I asked, as I viewed the maimed group before me. " They did at first," was the reply, " but we soon broke them in and now they do it quite willingly." At the end of the performance we were taken to the room of false limbs. Here were steel arms with great iron hooks. These are called week-day arms. The Sunday arms are imitations of the real thing. Few but officers have Sunday arms. It was a weird scene, this exhibition of the latest invention in arms and legs. It might have been a demonstration in automobiles. Our little group stood or sat about while the military doc- tors produced crippled patients and strapped on appliances. The doctor's talk ran as follows: "This one has had his leg off just below the knee but he walks quite well," and he started the man down the room. " This one — " jerking another wreck forward — " has one leg off at the knee and the other at 172 A TOUR FOR JOURNALISTS the thigh but see how well he walks," and the maimed wreck was pranced up and down be- fore us. " Now this one," continued the doctor with pride, "has had both legs and an arm re- moved but you see he is quite satisfactory." I began to feel in a horrible nightmare. It seemed to me in another moment the doctor would be saying, " Now this man had his head shot off and we have substituted a wooden one. We found the spine controlled muscular action and he makes a perfectly satisfactory worker." Never once in the whole afternoon was the soul of those tortured bodies considered. The long hospital wards were clean but ugly. There were no flowers, no pictures, no games, no graphaphones. The men looked utterly wretched. When I commented on the need of amusement the reply was, " It does n't do to spoil the men; they don't want to work after- ward." From the hospital we made a hurried trip back to Karlsruhe and, packing bags, dashed for the train. As we passed through the station I no- ticed a large sign with a huge index finger. It said, " In case of aeroplanes go into the cellar." It was at Karlsruhe that eighty women and chil- 173 SHORT RATIONS dren were killed by bombs from French aero- planes. Our special car took us to Baden Baden. I closed my eyes wearily but we were soon at our destination. At the station were the open victorias and white horses, and we made a trium- phant journey to the hotel. But then came a hitch. No baggage appeared. We sat in the hotel parlor and the minutes slipped by. Across the way on the Casino terrace elaborate dinner preparations were going forward. The " Stadt " (city) was entertaining us this evening. A long table with sixty places and covered with flowers was being made ready. At a short distance were many small tables where wealthy citizens sat and humbly gazed from afar. Generals in glit- tering uniforms and the Ober-Burgomaster and other city officials began to arrive. And still we sat on in that hotel parlor. It didn't matter much if our luggage was lost. Still it was too bad not to have the clean collars and my evening dress for this grand occasion. An hour rolled by, then came word that our possessions were on the way. This is what had occurred. When we reached Baden Baden our luggage was in our special car, but it had been 174 A TOUR FOR JOURNALISTS thrown in without being labeled. Still it must have been evident to the station master that the bags belonged to us. But the German official mind does n't work that way. Once break the chain in efficiency and you have to begin all over. The stuff went back to Karlsruhe to get labeled and start out properly. It seems stupid of the Allies to be killing millions of men when the way to victory lies in slipping bolts that will topple the whole German fabric. We scampered into our clothes and arrived late and flushed at the dinner party. There were charming red roses at my plate. It was a sump- tuous meal, an hour long, with everything from oysters to ices, and a grand mixture of wines. A German general sat on my right and a prom- inent citizen on the left. Though I understood some German I still could not speak it. But the German general was very attractive, so I just smiled and murmured,