iimninntJKMi 
 
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 HIBRARY OF CONGRESS.! 
 
 #[ 
 
 f [SMITHSONIAN DEPOSIT.] f 
 
 A . _ 
 
 i UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, 
 
A 
 
 25 50 
 
 100. 
 Fig. 99. ^'- 
 
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 Design of a Mixed Kkuft and Kitchen Garden 150 X 200 Feet. 
 
THE 
 
 FRUIT GARDEN; 
 
 A TREATISE 
 
 INTENDED TO EXPLAIN AND ILLUSTRATE THE PHYSIOLOGY OF FRUIT 
 TREES, THE THEORY AND PRACTICE OF ALL OPERATIONS 
 
 CONNECTED WITH THE 
 
 PROPAGATION, TRANSPLANTING, PRUNING AND TRAINING OF 
 
 ORCHARD AND GARDEN TREES, AS STANDARDS, DWARFS, 
 
 PYRAMIDS, ESPALIERS, ETC., 
 
 THE LAYING OUT AND ARRANGING DIFFERENT KINDS OS" 
 
 OECHARDS AND GARDENS,,,. 
 
 THE SELECTION OF SUITABLE VARIETIES FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES AND 
 
 LOCALITIES, GATHERING AND PRESERVING FRUITS, TREATMENT OF 
 
 DISEASES, DESTRUCTION OF INSECTS, DESCRIPTIONS AND 
 
 USES OF IMPLEMENTS, ETC. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED AVITH UPWARDS OF 150 FIGURES, 
 
 REPRESENTING DIFFERENT PARTS OF TREES, ALL PRACTICAL OPERATIONS, 
 FORMS OF TREES, DESIGNS FOR PLANTATIONS, IMPLEMENTS, ETC. 
 
 »rB AH 
 
 BY PrBAHRY, 
 
 OF THE MOUNT HOPE NURSERIES, ROCHESTER, NEW YOR 
 
 NEAV YOPtK: 
 CIIAELES SCR IB NEE 
 
 1S51. 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1861, by 
 
 CHARLES SCRIBNER, 
 
 In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern 
 
 District of New York. 
 
 F. C. GUTIERREZ. Printer, 
 No. Si John-Street, corner of Dutch 
 
 ^^^^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 T- 
 
INTEODUCTION. 
 
 The subject of this treatise is one in which almost all classes 
 of the community are more or less practically engaged and inter- 
 ested. Agriculture is pursued by one class, and commerce by 
 another ; the mechanic arts, fine arts, and learned professions by 
 others ; but fruit culture, to a greater or less extent, by all. 
 
 It is the desire of every man, whatever may be his pursuit or 
 condition in life, whether he live in town or country, to enjoy fine 
 fruits, to provide them for his family, and, if possible, to cultivate 
 the trees in his own garden with his own hands. The agricul- 
 turist, whatever be the extent or condition of his grounds, con- 
 siders an orchard^ at least, indispensable. The merchant or pro- 
 fessional man who has, by half a lifetime of drudgery in town, 
 secured a fortune or a competency that enables him to retire to a 
 country or suburban villa, looks forward to his fruit garden as one 
 of the chief sources of thos3 rural comforts and pleasures he so 
 long and so earnestly labored and hoped for. The artizan who 
 has laid up enough from his earnings to purchase a homestead, 
 considers the planting of his fruit trees as one of the first and 
 most important steps towards improvement. He anticipates the 
 pleasure of tending them in his spare hours, of watching their 
 growth and progress to maturity, and of gathering their ripe and 
 delicious fruits, and placing them before his family and friends as 
 
IV INTRODUCTION. 
 
 the valued products of his own garden, and of his own skill and 
 labor. Fortunately, in the United States, land is so easily ob- 
 tained as to be within the reach of every industrious man ; and 
 the climate and soil being so favorable to the production of fruit, 
 Americans, if they be not already, must become truly " a nation 
 of fruit growers." 
 
 Fruit culture, therefore, whether considered as a branch of 
 profitable industry, or as exercising a most beneficial influence 
 upon the health, habits, and tastes of the people, becomes a great 
 national interest, and whatever may assist in making it better un- 
 derstood, and more interesting, and better adapted to the various 
 wants, tastes, and circumstances of the community, cannot fail to 
 subserve the public good. 
 
 Within a few years past it has received an unusual degree of 
 attention. Plantations of all sorts, orchards, gardens, and nur- 
 series, have increased in numbers and extent to a degree quite un- 
 precedented ; not in one section or locality, but from the extreme 
 north to the southern limits of the fruit-growing region. Foreign 
 supplies of trees have been required to meet the suddenly and 
 greatly increased demand. Treatises and periodicals devoted to the 
 subject have increased rapidly and circulated widely. Horticul- 
 tural societies have been organized in all parts ; while exhibitions, 
 and national, state, and local conventions of fruit growers, have 
 been held to discuss the merits of fruits and other kindred topics. 
 
 To those unacquainted with the previous condition of fruit cul- 
 ture in the interior of the country, this new planting spirit has 
 appeared as a sort of speculative mania, and the idea has suo"- 
 gested itself to them that the country will soon be overstocked 
 with fruits. This is a greatly mistaken apprehension. After all 
 that has been done, let us look at the actual condition of fruit 
 culture at the present time. In the best fruit-growing counties 
 
INTKODUCTION. 
 
 in the State of New York, the entire fruit plantations of more 
 than three fourths of the agricultui-al population consist of very 
 ordinary orchards of apples. Not a dish of fine pears, plums, 
 cherries, apricots, grapes, or raspberries, has ever appeared on 
 their tables, and not a step has yet been taken to produce them. 
 People are but beginning to learn the uses of fruits, and to 
 appreciate their importance. 
 
 At one time apples were grown chiefly for cider ; now they are 
 considered indispensable articles of food. The finer fruits, that 
 were formerly considered as luxuries only for the tables of the 
 wealthy, are beginning to take their place among the ordinary 
 supplies of every man's table ; and this taste must grow from 
 year to year, with an increased supply. Those who consume a 
 bushel of fruit this year, will require double or treble that quantity 
 next. The rapid increase of population alone, creates a demand 
 to an extent that few people are aware of. The city of Roches- 
 ter has added 20,000 to her numbers in ten years. Let such an 
 increase as this in all our cities, towns, and villages, be estimated, 
 and see what an aggregate annual amount of new consumers it 
 presents. 
 
 New markets are continually presenting themselves and de- 
 manding large supplies. New and more perfect modes of pack- 
 ing and shipping fruits, and of drying, preserving, and preparing 
 them for various purposes to which they have not hitherto been 
 appropriated, are beginning to enlist attention and inquiry. 
 
 Immense amounts of money are annually expended in import- 
 ing grapes, wines, figs, nuts, prunes, raisins, currants, almonds, 
 &c., many of which might be produced perfectly well on our own 
 soil. Pears have actually been imported from France by the 
 New York confectioners, this present season, (1851.) These 
 are facts that should be well understood by proprietors of lands. 
 
VI INTRODUCTION. 
 
 and especially by those who have allowed themselves to imagine 
 that fruit will soon be so plenty as not to be worth the growing. 
 
 It is too soon by a century to apprehend an over supply of 
 fruits in the United States, except of some very perishable sort, 
 in a season of unusual abundance, in some particular locality 
 where one branch of culture is mainly carried on. 
 
 It is because fruit culture has been almost entirely neglected 
 until within a few years, that the present activity appears so ex- 
 traordinary. A vast majority of the people were quite unaware 
 of the treasures within their reach ; and that in regard to soil and 
 climate they possessed advantages for fruit growing superior to 
 any other nation We had no popular works or periodicals to 
 diffuse information or awaken interest on the subject. For four- 
 teen or fifteen years Hovey's Magazine of Horticulture was the 
 only journal exclusively devoted to gardening subjects, and it 
 only found its way into the hands of the more advanced culti- 
 vators. We had some treatises on fruits, but none of them cir- 
 culated sufficiently to effect much good. Previous to 1845, Keri- 
 rickh American Orchardist, and Manning''s Book of Fruits, were 
 the principal treatises that had any circulation worth naming. 
 Coxe's work, Floy's, Prince's, and some others, were confined 
 almost wholl)* to nursery-men, or persons already engaged and 
 interested in fruit culture in the older parts of the country. 
 
 Mr. Downing's " Fruit and Fruit Trees of America," that ap- 
 peared in 1845, was the first treatise of the kind that really ob- 
 tained a wide and general circulation. 
 
 It made its appearance at a favorable moment, just as the 
 planting spirit referred to was beginning to manifest itself, and 
 when, more than at any previous period, such a work was needed. 
 Mr. Downing enjoyed great advantages over any previous Ameri- 
 can writer. During the ten years that had elapsed since the 
 
INTRODUCTION. Vll 
 
 publication of Kenrick's and Prince's treatises, a great fund of 
 materials had been accumulating. Messrs. Manning, Kenrick, 
 Prince, Wilder, and many others, had been industriously collect- 
 ing fruits both at home and abroad. The Massachusetts Horti- 
 cultural Society was actively engaged in its labors. The London 
 Horticultural Society had made great advancement in its exami- 
 nation and trial of fruits, and had corrected a multitude of long 
 standing errors in nomenclature. 
 
 Mr. Downing's work had the benefit of all this ; and possessing 
 the instructive feature of outline figures of fruits, and being writ- 
 ten in a very agreeable and attractive style, it possessed the ele- 
 ments of popularity and usefulness in an eminent degree. Hence 
 it became at once the text-book of every man who sought for 
 pomological information, or felt interested in fruits or fruit trees ; 
 and to it is justly attributable much of the taste and spirit on the 
 subject, and the increased attention to nomenclature, that so dis- 
 tinguishes the present time. Mr. Thomas's recent treatise, " The 
 American Fruit Culturist," on the same plan as Mr. Downing's, 
 is also a popular work, and will be the means of diffusing both 
 taste and information. Mr Thomas is a close and accurate 
 observer, and his descriptions are peculiarly concise, methodical 
 and minute. " Cole's Fruit Book" is also a recent treatise, and 
 on account of its cheapness and the vast accumulation of facts 
 and information it contains is highly popular and useful. Be- 
 sides these, periodicals devoted more or less to the subject, have 
 increased in number and greatly extended their circulation, so 
 that information is now accessible to all who desire it. 
 
 The light which has been shed upon fruit-growing by these 
 works, and the taste they have created, have not only improved 
 old systems of cultivation, but introduced new ones. Until within 
 a few years nothing was said or known among the great body of 
 
VTLU INTEODUCTION. 
 
 cultivators, or even nursery-men, of dwarfing trees, of the uses of 
 certain stocks, or of modes of propagation and pruning by which 
 trees are made to bear early, and are adapted to different circum- 
 stances. The entire routine of the propagation and management 
 of trees was conducted generally in the simplest and rudest manner. 
 Whether for the garden or the orchard they were propagated in 
 the same manner, on the same stocks, and in the same form 
 taken from the nursery, planted out and left there to assume such 
 forms as nature or accident might impose, and produce fruit at 
 such a time as natural circumstances would admit. 
 
 The art of planting fifty trees on a quarter of an acre of 
 ground, and bringing them into a fruitful state in four or five 
 years at most, was entirely unknown. Small gardens were en- 
 cumbered with tall, unshapely, and unfruitful trees, that afforded 
 no pleasure to the cultivator ; and thousands of persons, who are 
 now the most enthusiastic cultivators, were entirely discouraged 
 from the attempt 
 
 Fruit gardening, properly speaking, may be said only to have 
 commenced. It is no longer a matter of mere utility, but of 
 taste also ; and, therefore, adaptation, variety, and beauty, are 
 sought for in garden trees and modes of culture and management. 
 Nothing so distinguishes the taste of modern planting as the 
 partiality for dwarf trees, and the desire to obtain information in 
 regard to their propagation and treatment. 
 
 This has not been anticipated by any of our authors. The 
 standard or orchard system alone is fully treated of, as being the 
 only one practised ; and this requires so little skill in the art of 
 culture, that only the simplest instructions have been given. 
 The very elements of the science have been unexplained and 
 unstudied, and cultivators in the main find themselves both desti- 
 tute of knowledge in regard to the management of trees in the 
 
INTEODUCTION. IX 
 
 more refined and artificial forms, and the sources from which to 
 obtain it. But a very small proportion of those engaged or En- 
 gaging in tree culture have studied the physiology of trees in any 
 degree. Very few have the slightest knowledge of the modes of 
 growth and bearing of the difierent species of fruits, or even of the 
 difi*erence between wood or leaf buds, and fruit buds. Very few 
 understand the functions of the diflferent parts of trees, and the 
 relation in which they stand one to another ; the principles that 
 govern and regulate the growth and maturity, the formation of 
 wood and the production of fruit. Practice is no better under- 
 stood than principle. Persons engaged largely in tree growing 
 will frequently ask the most absurd questions on the subject of 
 propagation, of stocks, of pruning, &c., matters that should be 
 understood by every man who has a single tree to manage, but 
 especially indispensable to those who wish to succeed in conduct- 
 ing garden trees under certain modified forms, more or less 
 opposed to the natural. The preparation of ground, laying out 
 small gardens, the selection of suitable trees, and a multitude of 
 minor but nevertheless important matters, are very imperfectly 
 understood. Neither our state nor national governments have 
 ever manifested a disposition to favor the rural arts with any- 
 thing like a liberal patronizing policy. Advanced, wealthy and 
 powerful as we are, not a single step has been taken, in earnest, 
 to establish model farms or model gardens, in which experiments 
 might be made and examples given that would enlighten cultiva- 
 tors, and elevate and honor their profession. Whatever advance 
 has been made is due wholly to individual taste, energy, and enter- 
 prise ; and to these alone are we permitted to look for future 
 progress. 
 
 Having for many years devoted much attention to this particu- 
 lar branch of culture, and feeling deeply interested in its success, 
 1* 
 
X INTRODUCTION. 
 
 and having, by a business intercourse with cultivators in all parts 
 oftkhe country, an ample opportunity of understanding the nature 
 and extent of the information desired, I have prepared the fol- 
 lowing pages to supply it at least in part. 
 
 I am well convinced that the work is neither perfect nor com- 
 plete. It has been prepared, during a few weeks of the winter, in 
 the midst of other engagements that rendered it impossible to be- 
 stow upon it the necessary care and labor. My original intention 
 was to give a few brief directions for the management of garden 
 trees, but it was suggested by friends that it would prove more 
 generally useful by adding a sketch of the entire routine of opera- 
 tions, from the propagation in the nursery to the management in 
 the orchard and garden. This has involved much more labor 
 than it was intended to bestow on it, or than I could really spare 
 from business. It has, therefore, been performed hastily, and, 
 of course, in many respects imperfectly, but yet it is hoped it 
 contains such an exposition of principles and practices as cannot 
 fail to diffuse amongst the inexperienced much needed informa- 
 tion. All doubtful theories, and whatever had not a direct prac- 
 tical bearing on the subjects treated, have been excluded, both 
 for the sake of brevity, and to avoid anything calculated to 
 mislead. The principles and practices set forth are not new, 
 visionary, or doubtful, but such as are taught and practised by the 
 most accomplished cultivators of the day, and have been success- 
 fully carried out in the daily operations of our own establishment. 
 
 In the pruning and management of garden trees, the French 
 arboriculturists surpass all others. Their trees are models that 
 have no equals, and that all the world admire. The English, 
 notwithstanding their gieat gardening skill, and their refined 
 and elegant modes of culture, are far behind the French in the 
 management of fruit trees. French eystems of pruning and 
 
INTRODUCTION. XI 
 
 training are at this moment advocated and held up as models by 
 such men as Mr. Robert Thompson, head of the fruit department 
 in the London Horticultural Society's Garden ; by Mr. Rivers, 
 well known on this side of the Atlantic as one of the most ener- 
 getic and accomplished nurserymen in Great Britain ; and by 
 many others whose skill and judgment command attention. Their 
 introduction to English gardens is going on rapidly, and bids fair 
 to revolutionize their whole practice of fruit tree culture. 
 
 D'Albret's great work on pruning is conceded to be the best 
 extant on that subject. He was the pupil and successor of M. 
 7'houin, the world-renowned vegetable physiologist and founder 
 of the great national gardens at Paris. His practice is founded 
 upon the true principles of vegetable physiology, and strengthened 
 by long years of the most minute and successful experiment. 
 
 M. Dubrieul, late conductor of the fruit department in the 
 Garden of Rouen, has also published an excellent treatise on 
 arboriculture ; and there are many other French works on the 
 subject, all showing how thoroughly the science is there under- 
 stood, and how minutely and skilfully its principles are dealt with, 
 all, These as well as the best-managed gardens and the most 
 perfect and beautiful trees in France and Belgium, have been 
 carefully studied. 
 
 The knowledge thus acquired, added to the experience of many 
 years' actual and extensive practice, constitutes the basis of the 
 course recommended. 
 
 The same minute detail that characterizes European works has 
 not been attempted, yet much detail is absolutely necessary in 
 order to prevent misapprehension on the part of those wholly 
 inexperienced. 
 
 Writers are apt to treat simple matters too much in the general, 
 presuming them to be well understood. Detail is always tedious 
 
XU INTEODUCTION. 
 
 to those familiar with the subject, but nothing less can be satisfacv 
 tory to the student. 
 
 For the sake of convenient reference, the different branches of 
 the subject have been separated into four parts. The first 
 treats of general principles, a knowledge of the structure, 
 character, and functions of the different parts of trees, modes of 
 growth, bearing, &c., &c. ; soils, manures, modes of propagation, 
 &c. This must be the ground-work of the study of tree culture. 
 The second treats of the nursery. The third of plantations, 
 orchards of different kinds, gardens, &c. ; their laying out and 
 management, and of the pruning and training of trees in different 
 forms. The fourth contains abridged descriptions of the best 
 fruits, a chapter on gathering and preserving fruits, another on 
 diseases and insects, and another on the implements in com- 
 mon use. 
 
 Illustrations have been introduced wherever the nature of the 
 subject seemed to require them, and it was possible to get them 
 prepared. It is believed that these will prove of great value in 
 imparting a correct knowledge of the various subjects. Upwards 
 of one hundred of the more important figures have been drawn 
 from nature by Prof. Sintzenich of Rochester. 
 
 P. B. 
 
 Mount Hope Garden and Nurseries^ ) 
 
 KOCHESTER, N. Y. i 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PAET I. 
 GE]S^EEAL PEIKCIPLES. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Names, Descriptions, and Offices of the Different Parts* of 
 Fruit Trees, ....... 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 Soils, ......... 48 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 Manures, ........ 54 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 The Different Modes of Propagating Fruit Trees, . . 60 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Pruning — Its Principles and Practice, . . , • 83 
 
XIV CONTENTS. 
 
 PART II. 
 
 THE NURSERY, 105 
 
 PART III. 
 PLANTATIONS, ORCHARDS, ETC. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Permanent Plantations of Fruit Trees, . . . 157 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Pruning applied to the Different Species of Fruit Trees 
 UNDER Different Forms, ..... 203 
 
 PART IV. 
 
 SELECT VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Abridged Descriptions of Select Varieties of Fruits, . 27*7 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Gathering, Packing, Transportation AND Preservation of Fruits, 354 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 Diseases and Insects, ..... 361 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Nursery, Orchard and Fruit Garden Implements, . . 377 
 
PART I. 
 
 GENERAL PEINCIPLES 
 
GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 NAJVIES, DESCEIPTIO]S^S, Al^D OFFICES OF THE DIF- 
 FERENT PARTS OF FRUIT TREES. 
 
 General HemarJiS. — 
 of many j)^^^^? such as 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 Fts". 1, a tree. A, the collar. B, 
 t'.e main root. C, lateral root. 
 D, fibres. E, stem or trunk. F, 
 main branches. G, secondary- 
 branches. H, shoots, one year's 
 growth 
 
 A Tree is a living body composed 
 roots, brandies, leaves, buds, blos- 
 soms, fruit, &c. All these have 
 different offices to fulfil, assume 
 different forms and characters, and 
 are known and designated from 
 one another by different names 
 when subjected to the practical 
 operation of culture. Without 
 some knowledge of the names and 
 structure of these different parts, 
 of the principles that guide their 
 development, their relative connec- 
 tion with, and influence upon one 
 another, tree culture cannot be, 
 to any man, really pleasant, in- 
 tellectual, or successful ; but a 
 misty, uncertain, unintelligible 
 routine of manual labor. 
 
 The industry of our times is pe- 
 culiarly distinguished by the ap- 
 plication of science — the union of 
 theory with practice in every de- 
 partment ; and surely the votaries 
 of the garden, whose labors, of 
 
2 GENERAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 all otliers, should be intelligent, will not allow themselves 
 io Ml behind and. perform their labors in tlie dark. 
 
 Fully sensible of the importance of this preliminary 
 study, and confident that the minute and practical details 
 of culture cannot be well understood without it, I propose 
 here, before entering upon the main subject, to describe, 
 in as few and as plain words as possible, the structure, 
 character, connection, and respective oifices of the various 
 parts of fruit trees, and the names by which each is 
 known in practice. 
 
 Section 1. — ^Tiie Root. 
 
 The Hoot is composed of several parts. 
 
 1st. The coIIa?'{A^ fig. 1), which is the centre of growth, 
 or point of union between the root and stem, usually at 
 or just below the surface of the ground. In root graft- 
 ing seedlings, this is the point where the graft is set. 
 
 2d. The hochj or inain root {B^ fig. 1), w^hich usually 
 penetrates the earth in a vertical direction, and decreases 
 in size as it proceeds downwards from the collar. It is 
 also called the %:? root. A seedling that has not been 
 transplanted has usually but one descending or tap root, 
 furnished in all its length with minute hairy fibres. 
 
 3d. The lateral roots{C\ fig. l)are principal divisions or 
 branches of the main root, and take more or less of a 
 spreading or horizontal direction. When - seedlings are 
 transj)lanted, having a ^^Oi'tion of the tap root cut ofij 
 these lateral or side roots are immediately formed. 
 
 4th. The fibres or rootlets {D^ fig. 1) are the minute hair- 
 like roots which we see most abundant on trees that have 
 been frequently transplanted. Different species of trees 
 vary much in their natural tendency to produce fibres. 
 Thus the pear and the apple require frequent transplant- 
 ing, and often root pruning, to produce that fibrous condi- 
 tion which is necessary to great fruitf illness ; whilst the 
 
THE KOOT. 3 
 
 paradise apple, usecl as a stock for dwarf trees, and the 
 quince, are always quite fibrous, the former never, and 
 the latter seldom requiring root pruning. 
 
 5th. 27ie spo?igioles are the extremities of the fibres, 
 porous and spongy, through which the food of trees de- 
 rived from the soil is mainly absorbed ; these points are 
 composed of soft, newly-formed, delicate tissue, and are 
 exceedingly susceptible of injury. The slightest bruise or 
 exposure to a dry or cold air is fatal to them ; and this 
 is the reason why transplanted trees receive generally 
 such a severe check and so frequently die. If trees could 
 be taken up in such a way that these spongioles could all, 
 or mostly, be preserved, trees would receive no check 
 whatever ; hence large trees are removed in midsummer 
 without a leaf flagging. 
 
 6th. Groiotli of Roots. — The most popular theory at this 
 time is — ^that the grow^th of roots is produced by the jjro- 
 longment of the w^oody vessels of the stem, which descend 
 in successive layers to the extremities of the roots, and 
 thus promote their extension. 
 
 When these descending layers are interrupted in their 
 course by some natural or accidental cause, or by art, as 
 when we cut off the ends of roots, they pierce the bark 
 and form new roots or new divisions of the root in the 
 same manner that branches are produced on the stem. 
 Thus the roots furnish food to the stem and branches for 
 their support and enlargement, and in return, the stem and 
 branches send down layers of young wood to increase and 
 solidify the root ; the one depending entirely upon the other 
 for its growth and existence. Practical cultivators are 
 familiar with many facts that illustrate the intimate rela- 
 tions and mutual dependency of the roots and stems. 
 For instance, where one portion of the head or branches 
 is much larger or more vigorous than the other, if the 
 roots be examined, it will be found that those immediately 
 
4 GENEE^U. PKIJSCIPLES. 
 
 under, or in direct connection with the largest branches, 
 will have a corresponding size and vigor. In cases where 
 one side of the top of a large tree is cut off, as in top 
 grafting, a large number of new shoots are produced on 
 the cut branch, and, if the roots be examined under or 
 in connection with this branch, a corresponding new 
 growth will be found there. It is quite obvious from 
 these and similar facts, that whatever affects the roots or 
 stems of trees favorably or unfavorably, afiects the wdiole 
 tree. If the foliage of a tree be entirely removed in the 
 growing season, the absorbent action of the roots is sus- 
 j^ended ; and if the sj)ongioles or absorbing j^oints of the 
 roots be cut off, the growth of the top instantly ceases. 
 Those who have leisure should pursue the study of these 
 highly interesting and important points still further. 
 
 Section 2. — •The Stem. 
 
 The Stem is that part of a tree which starts from the 
 collar and grows upwards. It sustains all the branches, 
 and forms the channel of communication between the 
 different parts of the tree from one extremity to the other. 
 
 Plants like the graj^e, with twining or climbing stems, 
 are called vines, and such as have no main stem, but have 
 branches diverging from the collar, as the gooseberry, cur- 
 rant, &c., are called shruhs or hushes. Where the stem is 
 destitute of branches to some distance from the ground, 
 it is usually called the tru7iJv. 
 
 Different Parts of the Stem. — A stem or branch of a 
 tree is composed of the following parts, which are dis- 
 tinctly observable when we cut it across. Fig. 2 repre- 
 sents the half of a cross section of the stem of a young 
 tree five years old. 
 
 1. The Rind or Outer Barh {A) on shoots or young parts 
 of trees ; this is thin, smooth, and delicate, like tissue 
 
THE STEM. 
 
 paper, and is easily separated from tlie pai-ts beneath it. 
 
 In some species, as the 
 
 grape vine, for example, 
 this rind is shed and re- 
 newed annnallj, whilst 
 in others, as the apple, 
 23ear, tkc, it unites with 
 the layer of tissue be- 
 neath it, and forms a 
 hard, scaly, or corky 
 substance, usually call- 
 ed cortical layers^ which 
 
 , Fig. 2, half of the hori- 
 zontal section of a five year 
 old stem. Jl^ outer bark 
 or rind. B. inner bark or 
 lil)er. C. sap-wood or last 
 formed layer. Z), perfect wood. 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 E, pith. F, 
 
 vertical section of a five year old stem, showing Separate frOm the tree 
 
 fib'el'''''""^' """'"'""'" '''"''''"'"" at different periods, ac- 
 cording to the age of the 
 subject and other circumstances. 
 
 It is these cortical layers that give rise to the expres- 
 sions smooth and roiigTi back. 
 
 2. The Inner Bccrh or Liber {B) — ^This is the interior 
 portion of the bark in immediate contact with the wood. 
 It is composed of perpendicular layers of soft, flexible 
 fibres, filled up with tissue. It is this part of the bark of 
 the Basswood that is used for budding ties, &c., the tissue 
 being se^^arated from the woody fibre by maceration. 
 
 3. The Saj>-woocl {O.) — ^This is the youngest or last- 
 formed layer of wood, immediately below the inner bark. 
 It is distinguished in all trees by being softer and lighter 
 colored than the older parts. 
 
 4. The Heart or Perfect^woocl {B.) — This is the central 
 or interior portion of the stem or branch, grown firm and 
 mature by age. It is generally a shade darker in color 
 than the newly-formed part or sap-wood. 
 
 5. The Pith {E) — ^This is the soft, spongy substance 
 in the centre of the stem and branches. In soft-wooded 
 species, like the grape vine, it is large ; in hard-wooded 
 
6 GENERAL PEINGIPLE3. 
 
 species, as the apple, pear, quince, etc., small. In yonng 
 shoots it is soft, green, and succulent, and fills an impor- 
 tant part in tlieir development. In the old part it is dry, 
 shrivelled, and seems incapable of taking any part in the 
 process of vegetation, and this ajDpears evident from the 
 fact that trees often continue to flourish after the centre, 
 containing the pith, has begun to decay. 
 
 Stritcture of the Stem. — ^The stem is composed of 
 woody fibre and cellular tissue, a substance similar to the 
 pith. The woody fibre is arranged in perpendicular layers, 
 and the cellular tissue in horizontal layers, running from 
 the pith to the bark and connecting them. The mingling 
 of these two systems gives to the surface of the cross sec- 
 tion of a stem the beautiful veined or netted appearance 
 observable in fig. 2. The perpendicular layers of woody 
 fibre are most clearly observable when we cut a stem ver- 
 tically ; they are then easily separated from one another. 
 The layers or plates of tissue radiating from the centre 
 to the stem are usually called the medullary rays. 
 
 The inner bark or liber, as has been stated, is, like the 
 wood, composed of thin layers of delicate perpendicular 
 fibres mixed with tissue. 
 
 GrowtJi of tlie Stem. — ^The stem of a tree is originally 
 the extension of the cellular tissue of the seed. As soon as 
 leaves are formed they organize new matter, which de- 
 scends and forms woody fibres : the layers sent down from 
 the first leaves are covered with those sent down from the 
 next, and so on, one layer after another is produced until 
 the end of the season, w^hen the leaves fall and growth 
 ceases. A yearling tree has, therefore, a greater number 
 of layers of woody fibre at the collar than at the top, and 
 is, consequently, thicker ; the second year the buds on 
 the first year's growth produce shoots, and these organize 
 new layers of w^oody fibre, that descend and cover those 
 of the previous year, and thus growth proceeds from 
 
EKANCIIES» 7 
 
 year to yerir. Between eacli year's growth there is gene- 
 rally a line, in some cases more conspicuous than in 
 others, that marks off the formation of each year, so 
 that we are able to reckon the ages of trees "with great 
 accuracy by these rings. When it happens that a tree, 
 from certain circumstances, makes more growth one season 
 than another, we find the ring of that season larger. The 
 new wood is always formed between the inner bark and 
 the last layer of wood, so that one layer is laid upon, and 
 outside of another, and the bark is continually pressed 
 outwards. 
 
 The new layers of bark are also formed at the same 
 place, or witJiin the previous one. From this mode of 
 growth, it results that each layer of wood is more deeply 
 imbedded as others are formed on the top of it ; and 
 each layer of bark is pressed outwards as others are 
 formed within it. In some cases, as in the cherry, for 
 example, the bark is so tough as not always to yield to 
 the general expansion of the tree, and slitting is resorted 
 to for the purpose of preventing an unnatural rupture, 
 which would eventually take place by the continued 
 pressure of growth from within. 
 
 Section 3. — Beanches. 
 
 BrancTies are the divisions of the stem, and have an 
 organization precisely similar : they are designated as, 
 
 1st. Main Branches {F^ fig. 1) ; those that are directly 
 connected with the stem or trunk. In pyramidal trees, 
 they are called lateral hranehes. The branches of different 
 species and varieties of fruit trees, dift'er much in their 
 habits of growth ; and it is highly important to the j^lanter to 
 consider these j)eculiarities, because certain habits of growth 
 are better adapted to particular circumstances than others. 
 Thus we have erect hranehes (fig. 3), which produce trees 
 
GENEllAL PEmCIPLES. 
 
 of an iipriglit and compact form. Curved erect IjranGlies 
 (fig. 4), proceeding almost horizontally from the stem for 
 a short distance, and then becoming erect ; these, also, 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 F?"g-5. 3, 4, 5, different habits of growth of trees. 3. erect; 4, curved erect; 6, 
 spreading or horizontal. 
 
 form upright symmetrical heads, bnt mnch more open than 
 the preceding. Also, liorizontal or sjpreading hranches 
 (fig. 5), that form wide-spreading heads with irregnlar 
 outline. And, lastly, drooping hranclies^ when they fall 
 below the horizontal line. The branches of most varie- 
 ties of apples and pears become pendulous when they 
 have borne some time ; and even in young trees of par- 
 ticular varieties, some of the branches assume a drooping 
 and irregular habit. 
 
 2d. Secondary Brandies {G, fig. 1), are the divisions 
 of the main brandies : occasionally those near the stem 
 take such a j^rominent part in forming the outline of the 
 tree, as to assume all the character of main branches, ex- 
 cepting in position. 
 
 3d. Shoots {JI^ fig. 1). This is the name by which 
 
BRANCHES. y 
 
 young parts are designated from the time tLey emerge 
 from the bud mitil they have completed their first 
 season's growth. Th^se have also important peculiarities 
 that serve to distinguish certain varieties. They are vari- 
 ously designated as stout or slender, st{ff or flexible, erect 
 or siyireading , short jointed if the buds be close together, 
 and long jointed when the contrary. The colors of their 
 bark are also strikingly different, and form very obvious 
 distinctions amongst varieties. The Snoio Peach, for in- 
 stance, has pale greenish shoots, by which it is at once 
 distinguished. The Jargonelle,Rostiezer, and many other 
 varieties of the pear, have dark ]yur]plish shoots, w^hile 
 the Dix and St. Germain are quite yellowish, the Glout 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 Fig. 7. 
 
 Fig. 8. 
 
 F'tg. 6, wood branch of the apple. 7. fruit branch ; Ji, B, C, young spurs on two- 
 year-old wood. 8, fruit branch of the pear ; Jl, B, C, young spurs on two-year-old 
 wood. 
 
 I-' 
 
10 
 
 GENERAL PKINCIPLES. 
 
 Morceau, grey or drab, and the Bartlett and Bnffam 
 quite reddish. The shoots of certain varieties of apples 
 and pears, and especially plums, are distinguished by 
 being doimy, fimiished to a greater or less extent with a 
 soft and hairy covering — in some cases barely observ- 
 able. 
 
 4th. Wood Brandies (fig. 6) are those bearing only 
 wood buds. 
 
 5th. Fruit Brandies are those bearing fruit buds ex- 
 clusively. They are presented to us under different forms 
 and circumstances, all of which it is of the highest im- 
 portance to understand. 
 
 In kernel fruits, such as the apple and pear, the most 
 ordinary form of the fruit branch is that generally called 
 the fruit spur {A, B, (7, figs. Y, 8, 9). It appears first as 
 a prominent bud, as in fig. 7, on wood at least two years 
 old ; and for two or three seasons it ]3roduces but a rosette 
 
 of leaves, and con- 
 tinues to increase 
 in length, as in fig. 
 9. After it has 
 produced fruit, it 
 generally branches, 
 and, if properly managed, will 
 bear fruit for many years. Ap- 
 ple and pear trees of bearing 
 age, and in a fruitful condition, 
 will be found covered with 
 these spurs on all parts of the 
 head except the young shoots. 
 In addition to the fruit spur, 
 there are on the kernel fruits 
 slender y^m^ hrandies, about as 
 large as a goose quill, and from 
 six to eight inches in length (fig. 10) ; the buds are long. 
 
 Fig. 9, fruit branch of the pear. 
 A, B, and C. older spurs. 
 
BliAXCIIES. 
 
 11 
 
 narrow, and prominent, and tlie first year or two after 
 their appearance, produce but rosettes of leaves, yielding 
 fruit generally about tlie third year. On trees well fur- 
 nished with fruit spurs, these slender branches are of 
 little account, but they are useful 
 on 3X)ung trees not fully in a bear- 
 ing state. They are generally pro- 
 duced on the low^er or older parts 
 of the branches or stem, and, in 
 the first place, are slender shoots 
 with wood buds only ; but ovv'ing to 
 their unfavorable position and fee- 
 ble structure, they receive only a 
 small portion of the ascending sap, 
 and the consequence is, they be- 
 come stunted, and transformed 
 into fruit branches. In pruning 
 young trees, slender shoots are fre- 
 quently bent over, or fastened in a 
 crooked position to transform them 
 into fruit branches of this kind ; 
 but this will be treated of in its 
 proper place. 
 
 Certain varieties of apj^les have 
 a natural habit of bearing the fruit 
 on the points of the lateral shoots ; 
 and frequently these terminal fruit 
 buds are formed during the first 
 season's growth of the shoot. Fig. 
 11 is an example ; ^ is the point 
 
 where a fruit was borne last season ; B^ a shoot of last 
 season ; and C its terminal bud, which is a fruit bud. 
 The fruit branches of the jpeach^ ajpricot^ and nectarine^ 
 are productions of one season's growth ; the fniit buds 
 form one season and blossom the next; but as on tho 
 
 Fig, 10. 
 
 Fig. U 
 
 Fig. 10, slender fruit branch 
 of the apple— all the buds are 
 fruit buds. Fig. 11, a branch 
 of the apple showing the ten- 
 dency of sume varieties to 
 bear on the points of the 
 branches. A^ the point where 
 a fruit was borne last season ; 
 B, a shoot of last year; C. its 
 terminal fruit bud. 
 
12 
 
 GENERAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 Fig. 12 , fruit spur of the 
 peach on the old wood. 
 
 apj)le and pear, there 
 are difierent forms 
 of the fiTiit branch. 
 
 In the first place 
 the fruit spur (J., 
 fig. 12), a group of 
 buds like a bouquet ; 
 these are little stunt- 
 ed branches on the 
 older wood that have 
 assumed this form. 
 The most important 
 fruit branches of these trees are the vigorous 
 shoots of the last season's growth, containing 
 both fruit and wood buds (fig. 13), and the 
 slender fruit branches, bearing all single 
 fruit buds, except a wood bud or two at the 
 base. Fig. 14 represents such a branch of 
 the peach, A and B being wood buds. The 
 fruit branches of \h.Q])l%im and cherry^ and 
 the gooseberry and currant^ are similarly pro- 
 duced. A yearling shoot, for instance, the 
 second season, will produce a shoot from its 
 terminal bud, and probably shoots from two or 
 three other buds immediately below the ter- 
 minal, whilst those lower down will be trans- 
 formed into fruit buds, and produce fruit 
 the third season. Fig. 15 is a branch of the 
 cherry. A is the two-year-old wood; _Z?, 
 one year ; G and D, fruit spurs on the two- 
 year-old wood, with a wood bud usually at 
 the point. Fig. 16 is a fruit spur from the 
 older wood; A^ the wood bud at its point. 
 
 J[tl\ f^'r^ T^'t '"^ ^'"" ''''"''^'^ "^ *^^ P^^^^ '• ^- ^- E. fruit buds ; F, O, 
 H, leaf buds ; J, double buds ; C, triple ' - ' • ' 
 
 and the centre one a loaf bud. 
 
 buds, the two side buds being fruit buds, 
 
BRANCHES. 
 
 13 
 
 Fig. IT in a "brancli of tlie j)lnm ; A, the two-year-olu 
 wood; J?, one year old; C and D, spurs. Fig. 18 is a 
 
 Fig. 14. 
 
 Fig. 14, a slender fruit branch of 
 the peach ; all the buds except ^ 
 and B, and the terminal one, are 
 fruit buds. 
 
 fruit spur from older wood. 
 The wood bud in the cen- 
 tre of these groups of 
 buds on the spur enables 
 them to increase in length 
 every season. 'New buds 
 are produced to replace 
 those that bear, and so 
 the sj)urs continue fruit- 
 ful for several years, ac- 
 cording to the vigor of 
 the tree, and the manner in which it is treated. 
 
 Fig. 16. 
 
 Fig. 15. 
 
 Fig-. 15, branch of the cherry ; A^ two- 
 year- old wood ; B, one year ; C and D, 
 fruit spurs. Fig. 16, fruit spur of the cherry ; 
 the bud Jl, in the centre of the group, is a 
 wood bud. 
 
14 
 
 GENERAL PEESTCIPLES. 
 
 Fig. 18. 
 Fig. 17, branch of the 
 
 The fruit branches of the quince and the 
 medlar are slender twigs on the sides of 
 lateral branches, and the iruit is borne on 
 their points. 
 
 Section 4. — Buds. 
 
 1st. The Nature 
 and Functions of 
 Buds. — In a prac- 
 tical point of view, 
 buds are certainly 
 the most important 
 organs of trees, be- 
 cause it is through 
 them we are en- 
 abled completely to 
 direct and control 
 their forms and 
 
 Fig. 17. 
 
 plum ; .3, two-year-oid ^Q\y, productivcness. 
 
 wood ; B, one year old ; C and D, spurs. Fig. 18, ^^-^ 
 
 fruit spur of the plum on the old wood. Whocver, therefore, 
 
 wishes to become a 
 skilful and successful tree culturist, must not fail to 
 make himself familiar with all their forms, modiiications, 
 modes of development, and the purposes they are adaj^ted 
 to fulfil in the formation of the tree and its products. The 
 immediate causes of the production of buds on the growing 
 shoots of trees, and the sources from which they spring or 
 in which they originate, are alike thus far mysterious, 
 notwithstanding they have been the subject of a vast deal 
 of research and speculation among botanists and vegetable 
 physiologists for many ages. We are able, however, to 
 trace clearly and satisfactorily the objects they are 
 
BUDS. 15 
 
 intended to fulfil in the development of the tree, their 
 connection with, and dependency nj^on other parts, and 
 the circumstances under which thej can he made to ac- 
 complish specific purposes. 
 
 Every bnd contains the rudiments of, and is capable, 
 under favorable circumstances, of producing a new indi- 
 vidual similar to that on which it is borne. 
 
 This fact is clearly demonstrated in the propagation of 
 trees by budding, where a single eye is removed from one 
 shoot and placed in the wood of another, to which it 
 unites and forms a new individual similar to its parent. 
 So in ^propagation by eyes, as in the grape vine, where a 
 single bud with a small portion of wood attached, becomes 
 a perfect plant. 
 
 Every perfect bud we find on a young yearling tree or 
 shoot is capable of being developed into a branch. Na- 
 turally, they do not ; but we know that by the application 
 of art they can be readily forced to do so. 
 
 For instance, the buds of a yearling tree, if left to take 
 their natural course, will only in part produce branches, 
 and these will generally be nearer to the extremities, 
 wdiere they are the most excitable, being in closer con- 
 nection with the centre of vegetation : but we cause the 
 lower ones to develope branches, by cutting off those 
 above them to the extent that the particular character of 
 the species or variety, or of the buds themselves in respect 
 to vigor and vitality, may require. Hence it is that the 
 forms of trees are so completely under our control when 
 we j)0ssess the requisite knowledge of the character and 
 modes of vegetation of buds. 
 
 2d. Different Names and Characters of Buds. — All buds 
 are either, 1st, terminal.^ as when on the points of shoots 
 (6^, fig. 19); 2d, axillary^ when accompanied by a leaf 
 situated in the angle made by the projection of the leaf 
 from the shoot or branch {A B^ fig. 19) ; 3d, adventi- 
 
16 GENERAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 tious or accidental^ when originating accidentally as it 
 were, or without any regularity, on the older parts of trees, 
 
 Fig. 19. — Lateral Branch. 
 Fig. 19. ^, a superior bud. B, inferior. C, terminal, Jl and B, axillary. 
 
 and unaccompanied by a leaf. They are often produced 
 by the breaking or cutting off a branch, or by a wound 
 or incision made in the bark. In the management of 
 trained trees special means are taken to produce these 
 buds on spaces of the trunk that it is desirable to fill up. 
 We sometimes see instances of such buds on the stumps 
 of old trees. 
 
 The temiinal and axillary buds produced on young 
 shoots, seem to have a difierent origin from these acci- 
 dental buds — the former are connected with the pith of 
 the shoot, as we may see by dissecting them. On cutting 
 into a young shoot below a bud we find a cylinder of pith 
 entering into the bud from the pith of the shoot, but 
 we do not find this connection existing in the case of the 
 adventitious buds. 
 
 Practically considered, buds are classified as follows : — 
 
 1. Lateral. — ^Those on the sides or circumference of 
 
 shoots, being the aa^/ZZar?/ buds of the botanist {A^ B^ 
 19). 
 
 2. Terminal. — ^Those on the points of shoots ((7, fig. 19). 
 
 3. Superior. — ^Those on the upper sides of horizontal 
 
 branches {A^ fig. 19), 
 
BUDS. IT 
 
 4. Inferim\ — ^Tliose on the lower side of horizontal 
 
 branches {B^ fig. 19). 
 
 5. Stijpular. — The small, barely visible buds found at the 
 
 base of ordinary buds. 
 C. Dormant or Latent. — ^These are scarcely apparent buds, 
 generally towards the base of branches : They may 
 remain dormant for several years, and then, in some 
 species, be excited into growth by pruning close to 
 them. 
 Buds are again classed as leafhuds ^nd frtiit huds. 
 7. Zeaf Buds (i^, G, II, fig. 13) produce either leaves or 
 branches ; they diflfer in form from fruit buds in 
 being in most cases longer and more pointed in the 
 same species. 
 These are again designated as — 
 Single, when only one is produced at the same point {II, 
 
 fig. 13). 
 DouUe, when two are together (Z, fig. 13). 
 Trijple, when in threes ((7 and J, fig. 13). 
 
 These double and triple buds are almost peculiar to the 
 stone fruits, and especially the peach, apricot, and 
 nectarine. 
 
 The size, form, and prominence of leaf buds vary in a 
 striking degree in difi^erent varieties of the same species, 
 and these peculiarities are found to be of considerable 
 service in identifying and describing sorts. Thus, the 
 buds of one variety will be long, pointed and compressed, 
 or lying close to the shoot. Others will be large, oval 
 and prominent, or standing boldly out from the shoot. 
 Others will be small, full, and round. Thus, for instance, 
 the wood buds of the Gloiit Morceaii are shoi*t and conical, 
 broad at the base, and taper suddenly to a very sharp 
 point inclined towards the shoot ; they have also very pro- 
 minent shoulders, that is, their base forms a prominent 
 projection on the shoot. The scales are also dark, with 
 
18 GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 
 
 liglit gray edges. In tlie Josephine de Maline pear the 
 buds are quite remarkable for their roundness, bluntness 
 and prominence. If shoots of the Bartlett and Seckel 
 pears, two well known varieties, be compared, although 
 they present no decidedly obvious peculiarities, yet they 
 will be found very diiferent. Those of the SecJi'el are 
 much broader at the base, more pointed, and lighter 
 colored, being a dark drab^ whilst those of the Bartlett 
 are reddish. These miscellaneous instances are chosen 
 simply to draw attention to these points, and to show the 
 ordinary modes of comparison. ■ When we speak of leaf 
 buds, we have reference only to the simple bud and not 
 to the large, pointed, spur-like productions frequently pro- 
 duced towards the middle or lower part of young shoots 
 that have made a second growth, that is where growth 
 has ceased for a while and the terminal bud has been 
 formed, and afterwards, in the same season, commenced 
 anew, and made a second growth. 
 
 8. Fruit Buds. — In the early stages of their formation 
 and OTOwth all buds are but leaf buds. Thus, on a younoj 
 shoot of the cherry and the plum, for example, of one sea- 
 son's growth, the buds are all leaf buds. The next spring 
 a part of these produce new shoots, and others are 
 transformed into fruit buds that will bear fruit ih.Q follow- 
 ing season. The transformation is accomplished during 
 the second year of their existence, and it usuall}^ happens 
 that they are the smallest and least fully developed 
 that are so transformed : XhQ more vigorous pushing into 
 branches. In the peach, the apricot, &c., on which the 
 fruit buds are produced in one year, the change from a 
 leaf to a fruit bud occurs towards the latter part of the sea- 
 son. The 2:)rimary cause of the transformation of leaf into 
 fruit buds is not satisfactorily known, although many theo- 
 ries exist on the subject. Observation, however, has taught 
 us many things in relation to it. It seems that all trees 
 
BUDS. 19 
 
 must acquire a certain maturity, either natural or forced, 
 in order to produce blossoms or fruit. A tree that is fur- 
 nished with a rich, humid soil, containing an abundance of 
 watery nutriment, and left in allTespects unrestrained in 
 its upward growth, may attain the age of ten or fifteen 
 years before it commences to form fruit buds ; whilst in a 
 soil of a different quality, dry and less favorable to rapid 
 growth, or if constrained in its growth by being grafted on 
 some particular stock, or by some particular mode of train- 
 ing, it may produce fruit in two or three years. 
 
 An apple tree on a common stock, planted out in ordi- 
 nary orchard soil, does not usually bear until it is in most 
 cases seven years old from the bud, often more ; w^hilst the 
 same variety grafted or budded on a paradise apple stocJi 
 will produce in two or three at most. We frequently see 
 one branch of a tree that has been accidentally placed in 
 a more horizontal position than the other parts, or that has 
 been tightly comjiressed with a bandage or something of 
 that sort, bear fruit abundantly ; whilst the erect, uncon- 
 strained portion of the tree gives no sign of fruitfulness 
 whatever. As a general thing, we find that where there 
 is an abundant and constant supply of sap or nutriment 
 furnished to the roots of trees and conveyed by them 
 through the unrestrained channels which the large cells 
 and porous character of young wood afford, the whole 
 forces of the tree will be spent in the production of new 
 shoots ; but that as trees grow old, the cells become small- 
 er, and the tree being also more branched the free course 
 of the sap is obstructed, and becomes in consequence bet- 
 ter elaborated, or in other words more maUcre^ and com- 
 mences the production of fruit. Circumstances similar in 
 all respects to these and answering exactly the same pur- 
 pose, can be produced by art at an early age of the tree ; 
 and this is one of the leading points in the culture and 
 management of garden trees, where smallness of size and 
 
20 
 
 GENERAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 early fmitfulness are so higUy desirable. Tliis will come 
 under consideration in another place. 
 
 Fruit buds in most cases are distinguisliable from wood 
 buds by their rounder and fuller form ; the scales that cover 
 them are broader and less nnmerous, and in the spring they 
 begin to swell and show signs of opening at an earlier ]3e- 
 riod. Like the wood buds they are single^ double^ or triple^ 
 according to the number found together. They are single 
 in j)ears, apples, and other trees of that class. Single^ 
 douhle^ and triple^ variously, on the stone fruits, gooseber- 
 ries, and currants. 
 
 Fruit buds are also simple and compound. Shn2?le^ as 
 in the^^acA, ajpricot^ and almond.^ each bud of which pro- 
 
 y^^ duces but one 
 
 flower. Com- 
 
 pound., as in the 
 plum^ cJierry^ ap)- 
 ple^ jpear.^ &c., 
 each bud of 
 which produces 
 two or more flow- 
 ers. Those of the 
 plum j)^'Ot^^^ce 
 two or three, 
 hence we find 
 plums usually 
 borne in pairs ; 
 those of the cher- 
 ry four or five (fig. 20), and of the ai3ple and pear six to 
 eight ; and hence we often find these fruits borne in clus- 
 ters. They are also lateral or terminal.^ as they occupy the 
 sides or ends of the branches or spurs on which they are 
 produced. The ordinary position of the fruit buds of dif- 
 ferent classes of trees will be understood from the preced- 
 ing descriptions of fruit branches. 
 
 Fio. 20. 
 Fig. 20, flower of the cherry, showing the product of 
 a compound bud. 
 
LEAVES. 
 
 21 
 
 Section 5. — Leaves. 
 
 1st. Striccticre and Functions of Leaves. — Tlie leaves of 
 all hardy fruit trees cultivated in our climate are decidu- 
 ous, that is — they decay and fall in the autumn and are 
 succeeded by others on the return of sj)ring. The offices 
 they perform during the growing season are of the high- 
 est importance to the life and health of the tree, and 
 deserve the most attentive consideration. 
 
 A leaf (fig. 21) is 
 composed of two prin- 
 cipal parts, the leaf 
 stalk or petiole {A\ 
 which connects it with 
 the tree or branch on 
 wliich it is borne, and 
 the expanded part (J., 
 -5, 2>), called the hlaJe. 
 The hase is the end (6') 
 attached to the stalk, 
 and the a^ex or point 
 {JD) the opposite one. 
 The length is the dis- 
 tance from the base to 
 the point (6^ to Z>), and 
 the ividth^ a line cut- 
 ting the length at rigLt 
 angles, and extending 
 from margin to margin 
 {A to B). 
 
 The leaf stalk and 
 its branches, forming 
 the nerves or veins of 
 the blade, are composed of woody vessels in the form of 
 
 Fig. 21. 
 
 Fig. 21, a leaf of the pear. A. the petiole or 
 leaf stalk. A, B, D, the blade. C, the base. 
 D, the point. Line Jl, B. the width. 
 
22 GENERAL PEmCIPLES. 
 
 a tube, similar to tlie woody parts of the tree or branch 
 that bears it, inside of which is a pith, similar to the pith 
 of the tree ; the leaf is thus connected with the 23ith and 
 wood of the shoot, and consequently the ascending sap, 
 as we may readily see, by making a vertical cut through 
 the leaf stalk and shoot. The veins of the leaf are filled 
 up with a cellular substance similar to the pith, called 
 parencJiyma^ and the wdiole is covered with a thin skin 
 (epidermis). This cellular substance is connected with 
 the inner bark, and consequently the descending sap or 
 cambium, that forms the new layers of wood. Both sur 
 faces of the leaf are furnished with small pores, through 
 which exhalation and absorption are carried on. Absorp- 
 tion is performed principally by the pores of the under 
 surface, and they are the largest ; exhalation principally 
 by those of the upper surface. 
 
 This property of the leaves to receive and give out air 
 and moisture through the pores on their surface, has 
 caused them to be likened to the lungs of animals, and 
 this comparison is to some extent correct ; for we know 
 that without leaves, or organs performing their offices, 
 trees do not grow. And in proportion to their natural 
 and Ileal thy action, do we find the vigor and growth of 
 the tree. 
 
 To prove that leaves have the power, in a greater or 
 less degree, to absorb fluids, we have but to apj^ly water 
 to the drooping foliage of a plant suffering from drought, 
 and see how quickly it becomes refreshed. Dews of a 
 single night, we know, too, will revive plants that the heat 
 and drought of the previous day had prostrated ; and 
 even if we put a flagging plant in a damp atmosphere, it 
 recovers. Even the leaves of a boquet can be kept fresh 
 for a long time by sprinkling them with w^ater. 
 
 That plants exhale moisture and gases cannot be doubt- 
 ed. It is this very exhaling process that causes plants 
 
LEAVES. 23 
 
 to wilt under a hot sun or in a dry atinospliere. Plants 
 that are transjjlanted with their foliage on, as annuals are 
 in the spring or summer, will wilt and even die if ex- 
 posed to the air and sun ; but if transplanted in a moist 
 day, or covered, so that evaporation cannot take place, 
 the plant does not appear to feel the removal. So with 
 cuttings of many plants thus propagated ; if jjlaced in 
 the earth w^itli a certain amount of foliage on, and left 
 uncovered, they will immediately die ; but when we place 
 a bell glass or a hand glass over them to prevent evapo- 
 ration, they remain as fresh as though they had roots 
 supplying them with moisture from the soil. It is on this 
 account that transplanted trees so often die when the 
 branches and shoots are not in proportion to the roots. 
 In transplanting, a portion of the roots are destroyed, 
 and all are more or less deranged, so that their functions 
 are feebly performed for some time after planting. If all 
 the branches and shoots are left on, they will, as usual, 
 produce leaves, but the absorption at the roots being so 
 much less than the exhalation of the leaves, the juices 
 contained in the tree, previously laid up, soon become ex- 
 hausted, the leaves droop and wither, and the whole fabric 
 perishes. In budding, too, if the whole leaf were left 
 attached, the evaporation would be so great as to kill the 
 bud ; hence we remove all but a portion of the stalk. 
 
 A tree can neither mature its wood nor its fruit without 
 the full and healthv exercise of the leaves. If in the otow- 
 ing season, a tree is deprived of its foliage by blight, 
 insects, <fec., we see that growth is entirely suspended for 
 a time, until new leaves are developed ; and if the leaves 
 be removed from a tree bearing fruit, we see the fruit 
 shrivel and dry up, or ripen prematurely and become 
 worthless. These facts, and many others that might be 
 cited, show the intimate connection existing between the 
 leaves and the other organs of trees, and the influence 
 
24 GENEKAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 tliej liave on their growth and productiveness. It is be- 
 lieved that the opening of the leaf bnds in spring induces 
 the formation of new roots ; this is donbtful, as new roots 
 may be seen forming at times when there are no leaves 
 on the tree and apparently no growth whatever going on 
 in the buds. Bnt if the roots are not roused into action 
 by the leaves, it is well known they will not continue and 
 grow long if leaves do not make their appearance. We 
 observe in the case of trees the tops of which have been so 
 much injured by drying and exposure that scarcely a sound 
 bud is left to grow, in this case the roots, although in 
 perfect order, remain nearly dormant until new shoots and 
 leaves are produced, and in proportion as the leaves in- 
 crease so do the roots. The fact of the absorption and 
 exhalation by leaves of cei'tain fluids, has, to a very con- 
 siderable extent, established the theory that the sap of trees 
 is taken up from the roots through the cells or sap vessels 
 of the wood of the trunk and branches in a crude state^ 
 and passes into the leaves ; that in their tissue spread out 
 under the sun's rays, it receives certain modifications. 
 Carbonic acid, which has been taken in a state of solution 
 from the soil and by the leaves from the atmosphere, is 
 decomposed, its oxygen is given off into the air, carbon 
 becomes fixed, and thus the component parts of the tree, 
 starch, sugar, gum, &c., are formed. After passing 
 through this purifying or concentrating process, the sap 
 acquires a more solid consistence, and is called camhium / 
 so j^repared it returns downwards through the nerves or 
 vessels of the leaf to the base of the leaf stalk, and then 
 between the wood and bark of the stem, forming new 
 layers on its passage. Such is, at present, the most poj^u- 
 Icir theory of the functions of the leaves and the ascent, 
 assimilation, and descent of the sap. Some distinguished 
 writers on the subject reject this theory, alleging that — 
 " there is no such thing as crude sap, that as soon as it 
 
LEAVES. 
 
 enters the routs it becomes assimilated and fit for the pro- 
 duction of new cells, and that it passes upwards, forming 
 new wood or cells by a chemical process."^ Observation, 
 however, has clearly established that in the leaves of 
 healthy trees chemical processes depending on light and 
 heat, and absolutely essential to the w^ell-being of the tree, 
 are continually going on, for trees shut out from the light 
 always make a feeble growth and have a blanched and 
 sickly hue, compared with the same species in the free 
 air and exposed to the rays of the sun. If one side or 
 portion of a tree is shaded or deprived of its full share of 
 light, it ceases to grow in its natural way, and the shoots 
 are lean, slender, and imperfect. 
 
 2d. Different Forms and Characters of Leaves. — ^The 
 different sizes and forms of the leaves of fruit trees, the 
 divisions of their edges, the absence or presence of glands, 
 the smoothness or roughness of their surfaces, are all 
 more or less serviceable in describing and identifying 
 varieties. 
 
 The terms designating forms are seldom mathema- 
 tically correct, but merely made by comparison, for in- 
 stance — 
 Oval (fig. 22), when about twice as long as broad, and 
 
 nearly of equal width at both ends. 
 Ohlong (fig. 23), three times or more, as long as broad, 
 
 and differing but little in w^idth in any part. 
 Lance Shaped (fig. 24), lanceolate, when three or more 
 times as long as broad, and tapering gradually to a 
 sharp point. 
 Ovate (fig. 25), when twice as long as broad, tapering to 
 
 the apex, and widest towards the base. 
 Ohovate (fig. 26), the inverse of ovate, the greatest dia- 
 meter being in the upper part. 
 
 * Schleiden's Principles of Botanv 
 
26 
 
 GENEKAIi PRINCIPLES. 
 
 Itound^ roundish^ as tliey approach a circular form like 
 fig. 21. The point is often a distinguishing feature, 
 some terminating suddenly in a sharp point, others 
 drawn out to a long, sharp point, peaked^ whilst 
 others are nearly round. They differ much, too, in 
 the form of the base, some are rounded, some sharp, 
 and some heart-shaped. 
 
 -F;g-s. 22 to 26, forms of leaves. 22, oval. 23, oblong. 24, lanceolate. 25, ovate. 2G, 
 obovate. 
 
 The divisions of the edges are serrated or toothed^ when 
 the edges are cut into sharp teeth, directed towards the 
 point of the leaf; findy (fig. 27) or coarsely (fig. 28) ser- 
 rate^ as these teeth are fine or coarse; doubly serrate^ 
 when the principal division or tooth is subdivided. 
 Orenate (fig. 29), when the divisions are rounded, instead 
 of being sharp like teeth. 
 
LEAVES. 
 
 2r 
 
 Lobed^ when deeply cut, and the penetrating angle 
 large, as in the cnrrant, gooseberry, grape, &c. 
 (Fig. 30). 
 
 Fig. 27, a leaf, folded, reflexeJ, and finely serrated or toothed. Fig. 28, coarsely 
 serrated. Fig. 29, crenate. 
 
 Fla% when the snr- 
 face is even 
 (fig. 21). 
 
 Folded^ when the 
 edges are turn- 
 ed inward (fig. 
 27). 
 
 Re flexed^ when the 
 apex or j^oint 
 turns back- 
 wards, giving 
 the leaf more 
 or less the form 
 of a ring (27). 
 FiQ. 30. Waved^ wrinkled^ 
 
 Fig. 30, a leaf of the currant, lobed. STtlOOtJl^ rOUg\ 
 
28 
 
 GENERAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 etc., are all terms used, but well enougli mider- 
 stood. 
 The leaf stalk has often striking peculiarities in certain 
 varieties, such as unusually long^ stout^ sliort^ or slender. 
 There are also glands on the leaf-stalk, close to the base, 
 and in certain cases on the leaf itself, that are chiefly taken 
 notice of in identifying varieties of the peach and necta- 
 rine ; these differ in 
 shajDC too, being globu- 
 lar (as in fig. 31), reni- 
 form or Tcidney-slia^ed 
 (fig. 32); these little 
 glands are supposed to 
 be, and no doubt are, or- 
 gans of secretion. 
 
 These are all interest- 
 ing items in the study of 
 the beautiful and almost 
 endless variety of forms which the different classes of 
 fruit trees, and even different varieties of the same class, 
 exhibit in their foliage. 
 
 Fig. 31. 
 
 Fig. 31. a leaf of the 
 peach With globular 
 glands. 
 
 Fig. 32. 
 
 Fig. 32, the same; 
 with reniform or kid- 
 ney-shaped glands. 
 
 Section 6. — Flowers. 
 
 1st. Different Parts of Flowers. — Flowers are the 
 principal reproductive organs of trees, and consist of floral 
 envelopes, the calyx and corolla ; and of sexual organs, 
 stamens and pistils. 
 
 The Calyx (J., fig. 35) is the outer covering, and is 
 usually green like the leaves. The corolla (A, fig. 33) is 
 within the calyx^ and is the colored, showy part of the 
 flower ; its divisions are called ^e^aZ^. 
 
 Stamens (fig. 34) are the male organs of plants. They 
 are delicate, thread-like productions (^, fig. 34) in the cen- 
 tre of the flower, supporting on their extremities the anthers 
 
1FL0WEKS. 
 
 29 
 
 Figs. 33 to 35 —Different parts of a flower. Fig. 33, A, the 
 petals. 34, a stamen, ^, filament or stalk. B, anther. C, pollen. 
 36, the calyx, ovary, pistil united. B, ovary. C, style. D, stigma. 
 
 {B, %. 34). Tlie pistil {C, D, fig. 35) is the female organ 
 and stands in the centre of the stamens. It consists of 
 the ovary 
 at its base 
 (5,%. 35), 
 which con- 
 tains the 
 seeds. The 
 style {O, fig. 
 35) is the 
 erect por- 
 tion, and 
 the stigma 
 (7>,fig. 35) 
 is the small 
 glandnlous 
 body on its 
 
 summit that receives the fertilizing powder (pollen) {0, fig. 
 34) from the anthers. 
 
 Flowers may be deficient in any of these organs except 
 the ovary, antliers, and stigma. These are indispensable 
 to fructification, and must be present in some form or other 
 or the flowers will be barren. 
 
 2d. Sexual Distinctions. — ^The fact that the two sexes 
 or sexual organs, the stamens and jpistils.^ are in certain 
 species united on the same flower, and in others on dif- 
 ferent flowers, and even on diflerent trees, has created 
 the necessity for the following distinctions : 
 
 Trees or plants are called hermapJirodite (as in fig. 33) 
 w^hen both stamens and pistils are present on the same 
 flower. N^early all our cultivated fruits are of this class. 
 Monmcious, w^hen the male and female flowers are borne 
 on the same tree, as in the filbert flower (fig. 36, ^, the 
 male, and j5, the female flowers). Diaicioiis, when the 
 male flowers (fig. 37) are on one plant, and the female 
 
30 
 
 GENEEAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 (fig. 38) on another. The most familiar instance among 
 plants cultivated for their fruits, is the strawberry. In 
 many varieties we 
 find the stamens or 
 male organs so in- 
 completely devel- 
 oped (fig. 38) that 
 they are of no ser- 
 vice in fructifying 
 the flowers, and 
 hence we plant near 
 them varieties with 
 of these organs strongly exhibited. 
 
 Fig. 37. 
 
 Fig. 37, male or 
 staminate flower of 
 the strawberry. 
 
 m abundance 
 
 Fig. 36. 
 
 flower of the fil- 
 
 FiG. 38. 
 Fig. 38, female 
 or pistillate flow- 
 er. 
 
 3d. Im2?Tegnation. — 
 The process of im- 
 pregnation is effected 
 in this way : When the flowers first open, 
 the pollen granules or powder in the anthers, 
 is covered over by a delicate membrane. 
 Li a short time this membrane bursts in a manner similar 
 to an explosion that scatters the pollen by its force, so 
 that it reaches the stigma of the pistil ; this is composed of 
 glutinous or sticky secretions to which the pollen adheres ; 
 there it forms new cells that expand into tubes ; these 
 tubes penetrate through the style of the pistil to the ovary, 
 where the impregnation takes place, and new cells are 
 immediately formed into an embryo plant. 
 
 This impregnation is sometimes, from certain causes, 
 only partially efiected in the cases of fruit where the ova- 
 ry or seed vessel is composed of several cells, as in the 
 apple, pear, &c., and hence the fruit takes an imperfect, 
 one-sided development from the beginning. 
 
 Tlie difficulty that appears to arise in the way of the 
 impregnation of the stigma of one flower by the pollen of 
 
FLOWERS. 31 
 
 anotlier, distantly situated, either on the same plant as in 
 monoecious trees, or on a different plant as in dioecious, is 
 wonderfully obviated by the provision that nature has 
 made for its transmission, not only by the atmosphere, 
 but by insects, that pass from one flower to another feed- 
 ing on their honied secretions ; the pollen adheres to them 
 and they carry it from one to another. 
 
 All natural flowers of the same species present the 
 same number of petals in their flowers, but occasionally 
 the stamens are converted into petals, and thus what are 
 called double flowers are produced. Among fruit trees we 
 have double flowering aj^ples, plums, peaches, and cherries. 
 These seldom produce fruit ; when perfectly double never. 
 All our double flowers, roses, paeonies, dahlias, &c., have 
 been obtained by this transformation of the stamens into 
 petals. It is supposed to be caused by an excessively 
 high cultivation given to the plants that produce the 
 seeds from which these double varieties sj^ring. 
 
 4. Period of Blossoming. — In treating of fruit buds 
 allusion has been made to the causes which, according to 
 observation and experience, promote fruitfulness. These 
 are chiefly a slow or moderate growth, and a branching 
 or spreading, constrained form, instead of an upright one. 
 Some species of trees bloom at a much earlier age than 
 others. Thus the peach, the apricot, and the cherry will 
 bloom in nearly one-fourth less time from the bud, all 
 things being erpial, tlian the pear. Some species bloom 
 at an earlier period of the season than others ; the apricot 
 and the peach bloom very early, and this is the chief rea- 
 son why the crop is so often destroyed in localities subject 
 to late spring frosts. Among fruits even of the same spe- 
 cies there is much difference in the period of blooming : 
 one variety of apple being nearly two weeks later than 
 another. This, in some sections, is an important quality, 
 where every day the blossom is retarded renders the crop 
 
32 GENERAL PEDsCIPLES. 
 
 surer, being more likely to escape frost. These differences 
 are caused by various circumstances. 
 
 1st. The Climate: — 'The period of blossoming of the same 
 species varies much in different localities. Bocbester is 
 at least a week earlier tlian Buffalo, although the distance 
 is less than one hundred miles ; and it is nearly two 
 weeks earlier than Toronto, which is still nearer. The 
 large bodies of ice in the lakes, at both Buffalo and Toron- 
 to, have no doubt a considerable effect in retarding the 
 blossoming period. 
 
 2d. The Season and Position. — In the same locality, 
 one season is frequently a week earlier than others, and 
 trees on the south side of a wall or building will expand 
 their blossoms several days before the same variety in the 
 open ground only a few rods distant, and ten days to a 
 fortnight before those on a north wall. 
 
 3d. The Soil. — On warm and light soils, the roots of 
 trees are excited into activity much sooner than in cold, 
 damp, and heavy soils, and the blossoming period is ear- 
 lier in consequence. 
 
 The Different Character of Flo^mrs. — ^Flowers vary in 
 size.^ fat'm^ color ^ and other qualities, even in the same spe- 
 cies. In the peach those distinctions are so obvious, that 
 one of the principal classifications of pomologists is found- 
 ed on them. Thus thei*e are varieties with large^ showy 
 
 flowers (fig. 39), as the serrate 
 early Yoi'lc^ and small (fig. 40) 
 as large early Yorh., Craw- 
 ford Early., etc. The color 
 also presents variations, some 
 being deep^ otliere ^mZ^ rose, 
 i^"^- 39- Fig. 40. ^j^(j gome almost white / two 
 
 Fig. 39, large flower of the peach. ^j, three VaHctieS of the 
 
 Pig. '^Q, small flower of the peach. t i n in 
 
 peach have nowers wholly 
 white, as the snow.^ for instance. In all the other fruits, 
 
flowt:es. 33 
 
 a 3 in apples^ pears^ plums^ cherries^ &c., the flowers vary 
 but slightly in form and color, and the dift'erences are only 
 taken note of in very full and minute scientific descrip- 
 tions. A few cases, however, are well marked, as the 
 Jargonelle pear, the flowers of which are nearly twice as 
 large as most others. 
 
 In connection with the flowers it may be proper to ex- 
 plain the important process of 
 
 Hybridization. — ^This is performed by fertilizing the 
 pistil of one species or variety with pollen from the 
 stamens of another. The seeds produced by the flower so 
 impregnated will produce a cross or hybrid between the 
 two parents. This process is now well understood, and is 
 earned on to a wonderful extent, especially in the pro- 
 duction of new flowers. Comparatively few of our popu- 
 lar fruits have been produced in this way. A few good 
 soi-ts have been produced by the late Mr, Knight, a dis- 
 tinguished English ex|)erimentalist, who eflected much in 
 his time towards establishing many diflScult and disputed 
 points in vegetable physiology. E'early all the native 
 fruits of this country are accidental hybrids. A vast deal 
 may be done to improve, in this way, all our fruits. 
 The size, hardiness, and productiveness of one variety 
 may be combined with the delicacy of texture and flavor 
 of another, and endless variations and improvements may 
 be effected. To obtain a true hybrid certain precautions 
 are necessary. The two subjects selected must flower at 
 the same time. The stamens must be carefully removed 
 from the one intended for the mother, without injury to 
 the stigma. It must also be guarded from accidental im- 
 pregnation by other varieties, and the j^oHen from the 
 selected male be applied at the proj)er moment, that is, 
 when it bursts from the anther. Hybridization is only 
 possible between species closely related^ for although there 
 is a relation between the apple and the j9^<2r, and between 
 
d4 GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 
 
 the gooseberry and the currant^ they will not hybridize ; 
 bnt diiferent varieties of the apple will hybridize with 
 each other, and so with all the rest. 
 
 Blossoming in Alternate Years. — Many varieties of 
 apple, pears, &c., fruits that take the whole season to 
 mature, produce flowers in alternate years only, with 
 great regularity. The reason is supposed to be this: 
 The fruit during the bearing year, attracts a large quantity 
 of the ascending sap of the tree in the same way as the 
 leaves do; but instead of returning it to the tree, they 
 consume it themselves. The consequence is, the buds 
 that would have blossomed the following year if they had 
 received their due share of nutriment, fail in attaining 
 the proper condition, and produce only rosettes of leaves. 
 During the unfruitful season, immense quantities of fruit- 
 buds are again brought forward, and the year following, 
 the tree is overloaded; so it proceeds in regular succes- 
 sion. 
 
 This is never experienced in trees regularly pruned, and 
 may be remedied by thinning out the crop in bearing 
 years, leaving on but a reasonable amount that will not 
 exhaust the tree. The bearing years have been completely 
 reversed by removing the blossom-buds or fruits on the 
 bearing year. 
 
 Section 7. — The Fetjit. 
 
 1st. CJiaracter of tlie Fruit. — As soon as the ovary is 
 impregnated it begins to swell ; the petals, stamens, and 
 other jDarts of the flower fall oif, and we then say the fruit 
 is " setP As a fruit bud is but a transformed leaf-bud, a 
 fruit occupies the same relative connection with the tree 
 as a branch; it attracts food from the stem and the 
 atmosphere in the same manner, and performs all the 
 same functions, except that it does not, like the leaf. 
 
THE FRUIT. S5 
 
 return anjtliing to the tree, but ap23ro2:>riates all to its own 
 use ; and this is the reason, as we have before remarked, 
 that trees having borne a heavy crop of fruit one season 
 are unfruitful the next — this is the case only with fruits, 
 as the apple and pear, that require nearly the whole sea- 
 son to mature them. Cherries, and other fruits that 
 mature in a shorter period, and that draw^ more lightly on 
 the juices of the tree, do not produce this exhaustion, and 
 consequently bear year after year uninterruptedly. 
 
 2d. Classification. — In some fruits, as the apple for in- 
 stance, the fruit is formed heloiu or at the base of the 
 calyx, the segments of which are still visible in the 
 mature fruit ; and often serves to some extent by its size 
 and other peculiarities, as being spread out, or closed to- 
 gether in a point, to identify varieties. In other species, 
 as the plum and cherry, the fruit is formed within the 
 calyx, or on the top of it. Fruits of the former character 
 forming below the calyx and includino; it in their struc- 
 ture are classed as inferior — the a2)j)le-^ pear.^ quince^ 
 gooseberry.^ and currant are all inferior, having the calyx 
 adhering. 
 
 Those formed within the calyx, having the pistil alone 
 connected with the ovary, are called sitjperior j such are the 
 peacli.^ ])l'^^^^-> (iJ>^'^<^ot'^ nectarine^ clierry., raspherry., stra/w- 
 herry., and graj^e. 
 
 The more natural, popular, and useful classification of 
 fruits, is that by which they are divided into 
 Pomes or Kernel Fruits., as the ajyple^ pear., quince., med- 
 lar., etc. In speaking of these we call the i^ericarp 
 ih^flesli., and tlie dry, bony seed capsules the core. 
 Drupes or Stone Fruits. — Those having a soft, pulpy 
 pericarp, and the seed enclosed in a shell like a nut, 
 as the peach., plum., apricot., cherry., etc. The peri- 
 carp of these is called the fleshy and the seed, the pit 
 or stone 
 
36 
 
 GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 
 
 Berries. — ^These have soft, pulpy flesh, containing seeds 
 
 without capsules, as the gooseberry.^ currant.^ rasjpberry.^ 
 
 strawberry.^ and grape. 
 
 Nuts^ or capsule fruit, as the filhert., cJiestniit^ etc., the 
 
 fruits of which are nuts contained in husks or cups, 
 
 that when ripe, open and let the fruit drop. 
 
 The outlines or forms of fruits and their colors exhibit 
 
 great variations, even in the same species. Every portion 
 
 of the fruit, the sldn.^ flesTi (6^, fig. 41), core (Z>, fig. 41), 
 
 seeds {E) or stones-) 
 stems (^), and in ker- 
 nel fruits the ciyx 
 (^), have all, in some 
 cases, marked peculi- 
 arities, and in others 
 more minute and 
 scarcely perceptible ; 
 but yet in a strictly 
 scientific study of po- 
 mology, of more or 
 less ser^ace. It would 
 be foreign to the ]3UT- 
 poses of this work to 
 notice these j^oints in detail ; all that is deemed necessary, 
 useful, or appropriate, is to point out well-defined and 
 practical distinctions, and the teiTQS ordinarily made use 
 of in popular descriptions. 
 
 3d. Different Parts of the Fruit: 
 Tlie Base (^) is the end in which the stem is inserted. 
 The Eye {B) is the opposite end, in the apple, pear, etc., 
 
 that have an adhering calyx. 
 The JVecJc^ in pears, the contracted part near the stalk, as 
 
 seen in fig. 49. 
 The Point is the end opposite the stem in stone fruits ; 
 
 F'g. 41, vertical section < f an apple, sli owing 
 Its different parts. .3, the base. B, the eye. 
 C, the flesh. JD, the core. E, the seed. A, stem. 
 B, calyx. 
 
THE FRrrr. 3Y 
 
 berries, etc., that have no calyx, and consequently no 
 eye. 
 The Length is the distance from stem to point or eye, 
 
 A to B, fig. 41. 
 The Width^ the line D E- — cntting the fruit across, or at 
 
 right angles with the length. 
 The Basin^ the depression around the eye or calyx in 
 
 kernel fruit, B^ fig. 41. 
 TJie Cavity^ the depression around the stem. 
 The Suture^ in stone fruits the furrow-like depression run- 
 ning from the base to the point. 
 4th. Different Properties of Fruits : 
 Besides the principal divisions which have been alluded 
 to, fruits are considered in regard to their size^ color^ 
 form.^ texture^ flavor^ and season of ri])ening. 
 
 1st. The Size. — Besides the natural difference in size 
 that exists among different A^arieties of the same species, 
 as, for instance, between the Bartlett and Seckel Pears, or 
 the Fall Pijopin and Lady Apples^ there are great dif- 
 ferences between the same varieties owing chiefly to the 
 following circumstances : Soil — ^We find that in new 
 and fresh soils, the nutritive properties of which have not 
 been impaired by cultivation, as in the virgin soils of the 
 "West, fruit of the same variety attains nearly doioble the 
 size that it does in older parts of the country, where the 
 soil has long been under cultivation ; and that in the same 
 orchard, the tree growing in a deep, alluvial soil, will give 
 fruit much larger than the one on a hard gravelly knoll. 
 Culture — This has an important influence on the size of 
 fruits. If an orchard has been for several years neglected, 
 and the ground about the trees become covered with grass 
 and weeds, the fruit is small ; and if the same orchard be 
 ploughed up, some manure tm-ned in around the roots, 
 and the ground be kept loose and clean by tillage, the 
 fruit will double in size in a single season. Seaso?is — In 
 
38 GENEEAL PRINCIPLES. 
 
 a dry season, when the supply of moisture at the roots 
 and in the atmosphere is very limited, fruits are invari- 
 ably smaller than in seasons of an opposite character. 
 jS'umher of fruits on the tree — This affects the size of the 
 fruit to a great extent in all seasons, soils, and climates, 
 and under all grades of culture. 
 
 It is perfectly obvious, that the greater the number of 
 fruits a tree bears, the smaller they will be, for as they 
 derive their sustenance from the tree, a large number 
 cannot be so wxll supplied as a smaller number. We 
 cannot go into an orchard w^here there are many varieties 
 without seeing an illustration of this. Here is a prolific 
 variety loaded in every part ; the fruits are small, cer- 
 tainly not over medium size. There is a moderate bearer ; 
 its fruits are thinly and evenly distributed over the tree ; 
 its fruits are consequently large. So in the case of fruits 
 that have been thinned ; that is, a certain portion removed 
 while young, either by accidental circumstances or by 
 design, every specimen is twice as large, as if the whole 
 crop had been allowed to mature. The English goose- 
 berry growers.^ in prej^aring their prize specimens, leave 
 but a few on each bush — not over a twentieth, or perhaps 
 a fiftieth part of the entire crop. So in peaches, grapes, 
 etc., grown carefully in houses. Where the size and 
 beauty of the fruit, and the health and vigor of the trees 
 are kept in view, a large portion of the crops, from one 
 half to two thirds, is thinned out before maturity. Age 
 of tlie trees — ^This influences the size of fruits to a great 
 extent; we see fruit so large on young trees as to be 
 entirely out of character : As trees grow older, the vigor 
 decreases, and the number of fruits increase, and they are 
 consequently diminished in size. The kind of stock has a 
 tendency to modify the size ; thus we find many pears 
 much larger on the Quince stock than on tlie pear, and 
 many apples larger on the Paradise than on the common 
 
TIIE FEUIT. 6\) 
 
 ap2)le stock. The reason of tliis is, no donbt, that on the 
 quince and ^^aradise the juices of the tree are better pre- 
 pared, richer, and better suited to the growth of the fruit. 
 In the common pear and apple stocks the sap is taken uj) 
 in greater quantities, is watery, and better adapted to form 
 wood than fruit. 
 
 CLASSIFICATION OF SIZE. 
 
 The terms qualifying the sizes of fruits are always given 
 comparatively, in regard to the tw^o extremes, the largest 
 and the smallest of the species ; for instance — in apples, 
 w^e may consider the Gloria Mundi and Twenty Ounce 
 as extremely large^ and the Lady apple as extremely small. 
 The terms used, therefore, are such as to represent the 
 various grades between the two extremes. These are 
 Very large., as the Gloria Mimdi Apj^le, Diichesse d^An- 
 goideme Pear, Orawford^s Early Peach, Yellow Egg 
 Plum, and Napoleon Bigarreaib Cherry. 
 Large., as the Baldwin Apple, Bartlett Pear, Red Cheeh 
 Melocoton Peach, Washington Plum, and Black Eagle 
 Cherry. 
 Medium., as the Baniho Apple, White Doyenne Pear, 
 Imperial Gage Plum, and the American Amber 
 Cherry. 
 Small^ as the Early Strawberry Apple, Dearborn^ s Seed- 
 ling Pear, Green Gage Plum, and Bauman^s May 
 Cherry. 
 Very Small., as the Amire Johannet Pear, Lady Apple^ 
 Winter Damson Plum, and the Lndulle {Early May) 
 Cherry. 
 The distance between some of these grades, as be- 
 tween medium and large, &c., is so short that they are 
 frequently confounded ; still they give a notion of com- 
 parative size that answers all practical purposes. It 
 
40 GENERAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 would, perhaps, have been more accurate, and, at the 
 same time, more satisfactory to persons entirely un- 
 acquainted with fruits to have given the comparative 
 measurement of these different grades in inches and parts ; 
 but the varieties quoted as examj^les are common, and 
 very generally known. 
 
 2d. Form. — ^It is exceedingly difficult, even impossible, 
 to find any single term that will give a mathematically 
 accurate notion of the forms of fruits ; for although we 
 call an apple round or conical, it may not be, strictly 
 speaking, either ; perhaps partakes to some extent of 
 both forms. But that is no reason why we should desig- 
 nate it conical round : we simply call it round ^ or roundish^ 
 if nearer round than any other form ; and if it inclines 
 slightly to the conical, we cannot so well convey the 
 knowledge of that fact any other way as by simply say- 
 ing so. 
 
 In the apple the round form j)revails, and in the pear 
 the pyramidal ; hence, it is necessary to apply a different 
 class of descriptive terms to each. 
 
 FOKMS OF APPLES. 
 
 Bound or Roundisli (fig. 42). — When the outline is 
 
 round, or nearly so, the length being about equal 
 
 to the breadth. 
 Flat (fig. 45). — -When the ends are compressed, and the 
 
 width considerably greater than the length. 
 Conical (fig. 43). — In the form of a cone, tapering from 
 
 the base to the eye. 
 0\)ate^ or egg-shajped (fig. 44). 
 Ohlong (fig. 46). — When the length is considerably greater 
 
 than the width, and the width about equal at both 
 
 ends, not tapering as in the conical. 
 
THE FEurr. 
 
 41 
 
 In addition to these forms and their varions modifi- 
 cations, some varieties are 
 
 F^gs. 4-i to 47, forms of apples. 42, round. 43, conical. 44, ovate. 45, flat. 
 46, oblong. 47, ribbed. 
 
 Angula7\ having projecting angles on the sides. 
 One-sided^ having one side larger than the other. 
 Hibhed (4:7), when the snrface presents a series of ridges 
 and furrows running from eye to stem. 
 
 FOEMS OF PEAES. 
 
 It has been remarked that the pyramidal form prevails 
 
 in pears ; but they taper from the eye to the stem, which 
 
 is just the reverse of the tapering form in apples. Their 
 
 forms are designated thus — 
 
 Pyriform. — When taj)ering from the eye to the base, and 
 the sides more or less hollowed (concave) (fig. 48). 
 
 Long Pyriforrri. — ^When long and narrow, and tapering to 
 a point at the stem (fig. 49). 
 
 Obtuse Pyriform. — When the small end is somewhat flat- 
 tened (fig. 50). 
 
 Olovate or egg-shajped. — Kearly in form of an ^^g^ the 
 small end being nearest the stem (fig. 51). 
 
42 
 
 GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 
 
 Turlinate or to])-sliaped. — ^Tlie sides somewhat rounded, 
 and tapering to a point at the stem (fig. 52). 
 
 Figs. 48 to 54, forms of pears 48, pyriform. 49, long pyriform. 60, obtuse 
 pyriform. 51, obovate. 52, turbinate. 53, oval. 54, round. 
 
 Oval. — Largest in the middle, tapering more or less to 
 
 each end (fig. 53). 
 Bound. — ^A¥hen the outline is nearly round (fig. 54). 
 
 FORMS OF PEACHES. 
 
 Tb.ere is too much uniformity in the forms of peaches 
 to render the adoption of any set of terms descriptive of 
 them very serviceable. They are mostly round, occasion- 
 ally approaching to obloiig and ovcd; two sides are fre- 
 quently compressed, flattened, exhibiting a suture or fur- 
 row running from the point to the base : the width, 
 depth, &c., of this suture are, in many cases, peculiar, or 
 at least worthy of note. 
 
 FORMS OF PLUMS. 
 
 Plums are round^ oval^ or ohlong^ as the peach, 
 and marked, in some cases, by a similar flattening of the 
 sides, and by the suture. 
 
THE FRUIT. 43 
 
 FORMS OF CHERRIES. 
 
 Cherries are round or Tieart-sliwpecl ; obtuse heart-sTiaped^ 
 when too round to be fully lieart-shaped ; and pointed., 
 when the point is more than ordinarily sharp or peaked. 
 The suture is also taken note of as in plums and j^eaches. 
 Gooseberries and Grapes are always round or oval. Our- 
 rcmts always round. Strawberries round, conical, or oval, 
 sometimes with a neck ; that is, the base is drawn out at 
 the stem in the form of a narrow neck. Raspberries are 
 conical, roundish, or long. 
 
 3d. Color. — The color of fruits depends much on their 
 exposure to the sun's rays. We find that in orchard trees, 
 where the heads are dense, and a large portion of the 
 fruit shaded and shut out from the sun, there is a great 
 difference in the color ; indeed, so great, frequently, as to 
 make their identity from appearance quite doubtful. 
 Varieties that are naturally — when properly exposed to 
 the sun — of a bright red or a glowing crimson, remain 
 green in the shade. The climate, too, seems to have con- 
 siderable effect on the color. As a general thing, we 
 observe that northern apples are clearer and brighter 
 colored than those of the south. 
 
 Dry soils and elevated situations produce more highly- 
 colored fruit than damp and low valleys. The terms 
 used in describing colors, are all simple and w^ell under- 
 stood. 
 
 4th. Flavor., in table fruits, is one of the most impor- 
 tant of qualities ; for however large or fair a fruit may 
 be, if insipid or astringent to an unpleasant degree, or if 
 it possesses some other disagreeable quality, it is unfit for 
 the table. There are various kinds of flavor even among 
 varieties of the same species : in pears, particularly, it is 
 almost endless, the shades and degrees of sweet and acid^ 
 
44 GENERAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 and the various perfumes tliat mingle with these, are 
 ahnost infinite. 
 
 The same circumstances mentioned as favorable to high 
 and brilliant coloring, are also favorable to the production 
 of fine flavor. Liglit^ heat^ a dry soil^ and moderate 
 growth^ seem to be all essential to fine flavor. On trees 
 somewhat advanced in age, fruits are apt to be higher 
 flavored than on young trees that have just commenced 
 bearing, and in a dry than a wet season. The philosophy 
 of all this is, that in a damp soil or season, or in a shaded 
 situation, when trees are young and growing rapidly, the 
 fruit receives more sap from the tree than can be pro- 
 perly elaborated by the action of the sun and atmosphere 
 on its surface, and, consequently, the sugary princij)le is 
 produced in small quantities^ — the juice is watery, sour, 
 or insipid, as the case may be. 
 
 The various terms by which flavor is designated, such 
 as sweety acid^ sub-acid^ sjyriglitly^ jperfuraed^ "imisky^ 
 sj>icy^ &c., are all well understood. 
 
 Section 8. — ^The Seed. 
 
 The perfect seed contains the rudiments of a plant of 
 the same nature as that which produced it. This rudi- 
 ment of the new plant is called the embryo. It con- 
 sists of three parts — the cotyledons {c c, fig. 55), which are 
 the rudiments of the first pair of leaves ; these are the 
 ]:>arts that first make their appearance. The bases of 
 these cotyledons are united, and send down the radicle 
 {h\ or root^ and between them is a bud {a\ which sends 
 up the stem, and is usually called the plumule. As soon 
 as the seed is excited into germination by the heat and 
 moisture of the earth, this radicle or root begins to pene- 
 trate the soil, and the plumule ascends in an opposite di- 
 rection ; and thus the growth of the tree goes forward 
 
THE SEED. 
 
 45 
 
 in the manner already described under the heading, 
 Root, Stem, &c. 
 
 It has been remarked that seed con- 
 tains the rudiment of a plant similar to 
 that on which it is produced ; but this 
 needs some exj)lanation. In distinct 
 sjpecies^ this will be true ; but the seeds 
 of "Varieties that have been produced 
 by culture and hybridizing, seldom or 
 never reproduce exactly their like, 
 hence the necessity for the various 
 artificial methods of multiplication, 
 such as grafting, budding, layering, 
 &c. It is to these oj^erations that we 
 are indebted for the preservation of 
 varieties that were originated hun- 
 dreds of years ago. 
 
 Germination. — Heat and moistm-e, 
 air, and the exclusion of light, are all 
 necessary to the healthy and perfect 
 germination of seeds. It may be well to consider, briefly, 
 the part which each of these has to perform. 
 
 1st. Moisture. — When seeds are sown in a time when 
 the ground is parched, they will show no signs of germi- 
 nation until it is, in some way or other, moistened. The 
 quantity of moistm-e necessary to a seed depends on the 
 natm-e of its covering and its size. A small seed, with a 
 thin covering, will vegetate much sooner and with less 
 moisture than a large seed, with a hard, bony covering. 
 The moisture must, in the first place, soften the covering, 
 penetrate to the mealy part of the seed, and j)i"epare it 
 for the chemical changes necessary to convert it into food 
 for the embryo plant. If apple or pear seeds be kept in 
 a dry, warm room all winter, they will not be likely to 
 vegetate the following spring, but if so^n w^ill probably 
 
 Fig. 6.5. 
 Fig. 55, germinating 
 seed, tt, plumule. 6, 
 radicle, c c, cotyledons. 
 
4:6 GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 
 
 lie in the ground all summer, and possibly germinate tlie 
 spring following. If cheny seeds are kejDt dry for any 
 length of time, say two or three months, they will not 
 germinate the season following ; and peaches and phims 
 have actually to be in the ground all winter, under the 
 action of frost, to insure their germination the S]3ring fol- 
 lowing. Seeds will germinate much quicker w^hen freshly 
 gathered than after they have dried, because heat, mois- 
 ture, and air have easier access to them, and act more 
 quickly on them. These facts, of which all are well 
 aware, show the necessity for moisture and the nature of 
 its influence. 
 
 2d. Heat is the next most important element. Seeds do 
 not grow in winter. We sow our apple, pear, peach, and 
 plum seeds in November ; but they show no signs of ger- 
 mination until a change of season. When the warmth of 
 spring penetrates the soil, it reaches the seed, and, in con- 
 nection with the moisture already imbibed, induces what 
 we usually call fermentation. This chemical process ex- 
 cites the vital energies of the germ, decomposes the 
 mealy part of the seed, and prepares it for the temporary 
 nutrition of the young plant. 
 
 3d. Air. — Although seeds may have heat and moisture 
 in the requisite proportions, still it has been proved by 
 many experiments, that without air^ germination cannot 
 take place. 
 
 Practical cultivators are aware that seeds planted too 
 deeply do not grow ; many kinds will lie buried in the 
 ground for years without growing, and when turned up 
 near the surface will germinate immediately. It is the 
 oxygen of the air that constitutes its importance ; it pro- 
 duces, by forming new combinations with the gases con- 
 tained in the seed, that chemical process which converts 
 the starch into sugar and gum, as we observe in ordinary 
 cases of fermentation. 
 
THE SEED. 47 
 
 4th. Exclusion of Light. — The manner in which self- 
 sown seeds in the forest are covered with fallen and 
 decaying foliage, plainly indicates that nature never 
 intended the light to strike germinating seeds. A seed 
 entirely exposed would be at one time saturated with 
 moisture, and at another ]3arched with drought ; chemical 
 changes would be alternately promoted and checked, 
 until the vital principle would be destroyed, or so weaken- 
 ed as to produce a feeble and worthless plant. The depth 
 of the covering should always be regulated by the size of 
 the seeds. Small and delicate seeds may be soTvm almost 
 on the surface, whilst large ones may be imbedded to the 
 depth of four or five inches. The small seed requires 
 little moisture, and has but a feeble force to j)enetrate an 
 earthy covering ; but the large requires much moistm^e, 
 and has force enough to push its way up. 
 
CHAPTEK II. 
 
 SOILS. 
 
 Section 1. — Different Kinds of Soil. 
 
 Soils are usually designated by terms expressive of the 
 predominant material in their composition, thus we hear 
 of sandy ^ loamy ^ gravelly^ clayey^ calcareous or chalky^ 
 and alluvial soils. 
 
 A sandy soil is that in which sand is the principal in- 
 gredient. Such soil is usually quite defective. It is so 
 porous that it parts almost instantaneously with moisture, 
 and plants in it suffer from drought. All the soluble 
 parts of manures are also quickly washed out of it, and 
 hence it requires continual additions to produce even a 
 scanty growth. The great point in improving it, is to 
 render it more retentive by the addition of clay, ashes, 
 &c. 
 
 A clayey soil is that in which clay predominates. It 
 may be considered the opj)Osite of sandy, inasmuch as its 
 defects are, that it retains moisture too long, is too adhe- 
 sive, in dry weather it becomes as hard as a burnt brick, 
 impervious to dews or light showers, and w^hen thoroughly 
 saturated with wet it is tough, and requires a long time 
 to dry. No fruit tree succeeds well in such a soil ; but it 
 is capable of being improved and fitted for many sj)ecies, 
 and especially the plum and the pear. The obvious way to 
 improve it is, by incorporating with it lighter porous soils, 
 as sand, muck, or leaf mould. 
 
SOILS. 4i) 
 
 A gravelly soil is one made u]) in greater part of small 
 stones, pebbles, decomposed rock, &c. ; sucli soils, as a 
 general thing, are nnfit for fruit trees, unless great labor 
 is incurred in trenching, deepening, and mixing with 
 clay, muck, ifec, of opposite characters. 
 
 A loamy soil is one we hear a great deal about, and may 
 l)e understood in various ways. It may be considered a 
 mixture of ecpial parts of sandy, clayey, and vegetable soil. 
 It is neither so light as the sandy, on the one hand, nor 
 so tenacious as clay on the other ; and, as a general thing, 
 contains such elements, and is of such a texture, as to ren- 
 der it eligible for all ordinary purposes of cultivation, 
 and especially so for fruit trees. Loamy soils are spoken 
 of as sandy loa^ns^ when sand forms a large ingredient, 
 say one half of their composition ; gravelly^ when pretty 
 largely mixed with small stones ; calcareous^ when lime 
 is found in them. 
 
 Calcareous or chalky soils have a large amount of lime 
 mixed with the other ingredients of which they are com- 
 posed. All the lands in limestone districts are of this 
 character, and, as a general thing, are well adapted to 
 fruit culture. 
 
 Peaty soil consists chiefly of vegetable mould from de- 
 cayed marsh plants, in low, wet places. It is unfit, in 
 itself, for fruit trees, but is valuable for improving both 
 light and heavy soils. 
 
 Alluvial soils are composed of decomjDosed vegeta- 
 ble substances, the sediment of rivers, and materials 
 washed down from neighboring hills ; the valleys of all 
 our rivers and streams are composed of this, and it is the 
 richest of all soils. Fruit trees in such soils make a rank, 
 vigorous growth, but they are not so hardy nor so fruit- 
 ful, nor is the fruit so high flavored as on soils with more 
 sand, clay, or gravel, and less vegetable mould. 
 3 
 
50 GENERAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 In treating of the different classes of fruits, we shall 
 refer to the particular soils best adapted to them. 
 
 Section 2. — Diefeiient Modes of Impeoving Soils. 
 
 In regard to depth, soils vary materially, some being 
 not over eight or ten inches in depth of surface, others a 
 foot, while in deep alluvial valleys they are often two feet. 
 For orchard and garden pm-poses, a deejp soil is quite 
 essential to enable the roots to penetrate freely in search 
 of food, and to enable them to withstand the demands of 
 protracted droughts. Few soils in their ordinary condition 
 of farm culture are, in this respect, suitable for trees. 
 Even where naturally deep and loamy, if the upper part 
 only (say to the dej^th of six inches, which is as deep as 
 most people plough) be in a friable condition, it cannot 
 be considered as in a proper state for the reception of 
 trees, for their roots cannot be confined to six inches of the 
 surface. Some means of loosening and deepening must 
 be resorted to, and what are they ? 
 
 1. SUBSOIL PLOUGHING. 
 
 This is the cheapest and best method, where a large 
 quantity of ground is to be prepared for extensive ]3lant- 
 ing. The common plough goes first, and takes as deep a 
 furrow, as practicable. The subsoiler follows in the same 
 fuiTOW and loosens, without turning up, the lower part 
 of the surface and a part of the subsoil. Exce23t in cases 
 where the subsoil is a very stiff clay or a hard gravel 
 and near the surface, the two ploughs can go to the depth 
 of eighteen or twenty inches. This is our mode of pre- 
 paring nursery grounds. If a single ploughing in this 
 way does not accomplish the desired end, a second may 
 be given, going down still deeper. 
 
SOILS. 61 
 
 We had a piece of soil the surface of which was about 
 a foot deep of black vegetable mould, with a sliglit admix- 
 ture of sand, resting on a stiff clay subsoil, which pre- 
 vented the water from passing off. In this condition we 
 found it entirely unfit for trees ; we subsoil ploughed it 
 six or eight inches deep, turning up the clay subsoil and 
 mixing it with the surface ; we also drained it, and spread 
 over the surface the clay that came out of the drains, and 
 in this condition we find it producing the finest trees, 
 especially apples, pears, and^plums. The soil is more 
 substantial, and the surface w^ater passes off freely. 
 
 2. TEENCHING. 
 
 In gardens too limited in extent to admit of ploughs, or 
 where it is desired to make the soil thorough and perma- 
 nently deep, trenching is the means. 
 
 The sjDade is the implement used in this operation. A 
 trench two feet wide is opened on one side of the ground, 
 and the earth taken out of it is carried to the oj)posite 
 side. Another trench is opened, the surface spadeful be- 
 ing thrown in the bottom, and the next lower on the top 
 of that, and so on till it is opened the required depth, 
 which, for a good fruit garden, should be about two feet. 
 If the subsoil be poor and gravelly, it is better to loosen 
 it up thoroughly with a pick, and let it remain, than to 
 throw it out on the sm-face. When the whole plot is 
 trenched over in this way, the earth taken out of the first 
 trench will fill up the last one, and the work is done. If 
 the soil be poor, a layer of well-decomposed manure may 
 be added alternately with the layers of earth ; and if the 
 soil be too light and sandy, clay, ashes, etc., can be added ; 
 and if too heavy, sand, lime, muck, peat, scrapings of dead 
 leaves from the woods, or any other material calculated to 
 render it porous and friable. If a garden is thus trenched 
 
52 GENERAL PKINCIPLliy. 
 
 in the fall or winter, and tlien turned over once in tlio 
 spring to eiFect a thorongli mixture of all the materials, it 
 will be in suitable order for planting. This is something 
 like the way to prepare soil for a garden ; and let no one 
 say it is too troublesome or too expensive, for in two 
 years the extra pleasure and profit it will yield, will pay 
 for all. I^othing is so expensive or so troublesome as an 
 ill-prepared soil. 
 
 3. DRAINING. 
 
 There is a false notion very prevalent among people, 
 that where water does not lodge on the surface of a soil, 
 it is " dry enough." However this may be in regard to 
 meadows or annual crops, it is quite erroneous when ap- 
 plied to orchards or fruit gardens. Stagnant moisture 
 either in the surface or subsoil is highly injurious — ^ruin- 
 ous to fruit trees. In such situations we invariably find 
 them unthrifty and unfruitful, the bark mossy, and the 
 fruit imperfect and insipid. All the soils, then, not per- 
 fectly free from stagnant moisture, both above and below, 
 should be drained. In draining, it is, of course, neces- 
 sary to have a fall or outlet for the water. Having se- 
 lected this, the next point is to open the drains. We 
 usually make them three feet deep, and wide enough to 
 give sufficient room to work — say three feet wide at top, 
 narrowing gradually to six inches at the bottom, which 
 should be even and sloping enough to the outlet of the 
 water to enable it to run. A laborer who understands 
 draining, will make two rods of these in a day ; and 
 good pipe-tile, two inches wide, can be had at the rate of 
 about one cent per foot. Draining, therefore, is not 
 so costly an operation as many suppose. 
 
 Where draining tiles are not to be had conveniently, 
 small stones may be used. The bottom of the drain 
 
SOILS. 53 
 
 should be filled with them to the depth of eight or ten 
 inches. Li using these, the drains require to be at least 
 six inches deeper than for tiles, in order that a sufficient 
 quantity of stones can be used without coming too near 
 the surface. Some brush, or tmf, with the grassy side 
 downwards, should be laid on the stones before filling in 
 the earth, to keep it from filling up the crevices. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 MANURES. 
 
 Section 1. — Importai^-ce of Manures. 
 
 1^0 soil, whatever may be its original fertility, can sus- 
 tain a heavy and continued vegetation for many years 
 without becoming, to some extent, exhansted. Indeed, 
 there are few people so fortunate, except those who settle 
 upon new, uncultivated lands, as to procure a soil that does 
 not need manuring to fit it for the first i)lanting with 
 trees. It is, then, a matter of importance for every man 
 who has more or less land to cultivate, to inform himself 
 well on the subject of saving, preparing, and apj^lying 
 manures. In this country, the only class of men, gene- 
 rally speaking, who can be properly said to collect and 
 manage manm^es with system and care, are nurserymen 
 and market gardeners near our large towns. It is very 
 seldom that people generally give the matter a thought 
 until garden-making time comes around in the spring ; 
 and then, anything in the form of manure is carried into 
 the garden, and applied whether fit or unfit. This is not 
 the proper course. 
 
 Every garden should have its manure heap, that, in the 
 fall or spring, when it comes to be applied, will cut like 
 paste. In that state only is it safe to apply it. All parts 
 of it are then decomposed thoroughly ; all seeds of 
 noxious plants are dead, and it is in a condition capable 
 of yielding at once, to the roots of growing plants, 
 
MANURES. 55 
 
 healthy nntritlon, that will produce a xigorous^ firm^ 
 sounds and fruitful growth; and this is precisely what is 
 w^anted : far better to have a tree starved and stunted, 
 than forced into a rank, plethoric growth, with crude, ill- 
 prej)ared manures. 
 
 Section 2. — Preparation of Manures. 
 
 The best gardeners pursue a system something like 
 this : A trench is prepared two or three feet deep, and 
 large enough to hold w^hat manure may be wanted. In 
 the bottom of this trench, a layer of muck, grassy tmf, 
 ashes, anything and everything capable of being decom- 
 posed, is laid down, say a foot deep. On the top of this, 
 a thick layer of stable or barnyard manure, two or three 
 feet deep, then another layer of muck, gypsum, etc. In 
 this way it remains till more manure has accumulated 
 around the stables ; it is then carried and dej^osited in 
 another layer, with a layer of the other materials on the 
 top. The manure should always be saturated w^th mois- 
 ture, and trodden down firmly to hasten its decay, and if 
 an occasional load of night soil could be mixed in with it all 
 the better. The layer of muck and other substances 
 being always placed on the top of the last layer of 
 manure absorbs the evaporations of the heap, and hastens 
 the decay of all. When stable manure is thrown down 
 and left uncovered, a dense steam will be seen to rise 
 from it ; and this is the very essence of it escaping to be 
 lost, and if it be thrown down in a heap dry it will im- 
 mediately burn — that is, dry rot. Its enriching ingre- 
 dients all pass oif by evaporation, and there is nothing 
 left but its ashes, so to speak. 
 
 When the heap has accumulated for four or five 
 months as described, the whole should be turned over, 
 completely mixed, and piled up in a compact, firmly- 
 
56 GENERAL PRmCIPLES. 
 
 trodden mass, when it will undergo farther decomposition, 
 and, in a short time, become like ^paste. Adjoining every 
 mannre heap, there should be an excavation to receive its 
 liquid drainage, in order that it may be saved, and either 
 applied in the growing season, in a liquid state, diluted 
 with water, or be thrown over the heap. 
 
 " Special manures" have been much talked of lately. • 
 By the word " special," is meant a particular quantity, 
 of a particular mixture, for certain species, and even for 
 certain varieties of fruits. JS'early all the suggestions on 
 the subject are speculative and unreliable. The subject 
 is an important one, but we want direct and careful ex- 
 periments. It is only when we know to a certainty what 
 material certain trees need most of, and in what degree it 
 abounds or is wanting in our soil, that we can apply it 
 safely. The experience of farmers and gardeners, grain 
 and fruit growers, all over the world, affords undoubted 
 evidence of the enriching qualities of stable mamire. On 
 all soils, and for all sorts of crops, it is an unfailing and 
 powerful fertilizer ; and we make it the base of all our 
 manure and compost heaps. By mixing with it the in- 
 gredients wx have mentioned, we hasten its decay, save 
 its parts from waste, and, at the same time, combine with 
 it other substances that will not only enrich but improve 
 the texture of soils, and increase the supply of the mine- 
 ral substances required by plants. Dr. Daubney, a dis- 
 tinguished TVTiter on the character and improvement of 
 soils, etc., says, " Fortunately we are provided in the 
 dung of animals with a species of manure of which the 
 land can never be said to tire, for this simple reason, that 
 it contains within itself not one alone, but all the ingre- 
 dients which plants require for their nutrition, and that, 
 too, existing in the precise condition in which they are 
 most readily taken in and assimilated." But a good sub- 
 stitute for this article, w^here it cannot be ol)tained, is an 
 
MANURES. 57 
 
 important point. Some time ago, we noticed in the re- 
 port of a discussion on manures in Boston, that the Hon. 
 M. F. Wilder, one of the most distinguished horticultmists 
 in America, stated that he had found the following com- 
 post equal to stable manm'e for gardening purposes gene- 
 rally, and for fruit trees. 
 
 " One cord of meadow muck, having been exposed to 
 the action of the air and frost at least one year ; twelve 
 bushels leached ashes ; six bushels crushed bones. This 
 mixture cost him at the rate of $4 50 cents per cord. 
 Latterly he added to this his stable manure, and about 
 an eighth of the whole bulk of fine refuse charcoal from 
 the depot of venders, which was delivered to him at $5 
 per cord; and in this way he found it the best, as a 
 general manure, he had ever used. On fruit trees its 
 efiect was remarkable. 
 
 " In the spring of 1847, he planted a square in the nur- 
 sery with imported trees from England, this compost 
 having been spread and ploughed in. These trees were 
 from four to five feet in height, and although it is not 
 usual for trees to make a large growth the first year, they 
 acc[uired branches of three to four feet, and were so hand- 
 some as to com^mand $1 25 each, for a row of fifty trees, 
 without any selection. 
 
 " In June last, which is very late to set out trees, he 
 prepared another square on rather poor land, and planted 
 trees just received from England upon it. The soil had 
 been thrown up to the frost the previous winter, and the 
 compost here was applied in the trenches near the roots. 
 Mr. Wilder exhibited two shoots which had grown from 
 those trees since they were set in June. The shoots were 
 four feet in length, and the wood hard and w^ell rij)ened." 
 
 In addition to all these sources for manm^e, it may be 
 added that fallen leaves, scrapings of streets, weeds, 
 wood chips, sawdust, the ashes of all prunings of trees 
 
58 GENERAL PETNCIPLES. 
 
 and brush, soot, blood, animal flesh, soap suds, and slops 
 from the kitchen, and, in fact, everything decomposable 
 may be used, to increase the bulk of the manure heap, 
 taking care that everything likely to waste by evapora- 
 tion be covered at once with muck, charcoal, or some 
 material calculated to absorb the gases evolved by de- 
 composition. We very frequently see people, in the 
 spring of the year, when their garden is undergoing a 
 purifying and fitting up process, carry to the highway all 
 the brush, dry stems of plants, and all the wi-eck of the 
 previous season's work, there to make a bonfire to get it 
 out of the way, while at the same moment they complain 
 sadly of the lack of manure. 
 
 There was no such thing as a manm*e heap on the pre- 
 mises. 
 
 Section 3. — Modes of AppLYEsra Manuke. 
 
 "Where an acre or several acres of ground are to be 
 prepared for trees, the better way is to spread the manm-e 
 over the surface and turn it in with the plough. "When it 
 is scarce and economy necessary, it may be applied 
 aromid the roots, by mixing with the earth at planting 
 time. 
 
 Quantity to be Applied. — This, of course, depends on 
 two things, the necessities of the soil and the quality of 
 the manure. If the land be poor, an even covering of 
 two or three inches should be given ; if in tolerable good 
 condition, one inch will be sufiicient. One inch of well 
 decomposed animal manure will be equal to three inches 
 of a partially decayed comj^ost. 
 
 Section 4. — Liquid Manure. 
 Manure in a liquid state has these advantages to recom- 
 
MANUKES. 59 
 
 mend it. It can be aj^pliecl to trees and plants in a grow- 
 ing state without in the least distm-bing the surftice of the 
 soil, and it supplies, at the same time, both nutriment and 
 moisture. It can be applied to bearing trees, strawber- 
 ries, etc., in fruity if defective in vigor, or suffering from 
 drought, and yield an immediate sustenance that will 
 enable them to produce much larger and finer fruit than 
 they could have done without it. 
 
 It may either be collected in a tank, kept on purpose 
 near the barns, or it may be made when wanted by dis- 
 solving manure in water. It may be much stronger for 
 trees, the roots of which are a considerable distance from 
 the surface, than for such plants as have their roots near 
 the surface. It is the only prompt and effectual stimu- 
 lant for trees on a poor soil, to enable them to perfect 
 their crop. We have frequently witnessed its astonishing 
 effects. It should be applied in the evening, and in such 
 quantity as to penetrate to the roots ; half a dozen water- 
 ings will be sufficient in most cases, but it is better to 
 apply it well diluted and often, than a smaller quantity 
 too strong. A dozen shovelfuls of animal manure will 
 make a barrel of liquid powerful enough for most pm-- 
 2)0ses ; and if pure liquid soakage of the manure heap or 
 urine of animals is used, at least one half rain water 
 should be added. Soap suds form an excellent liquid 
 manure for all trees. The grape vine is especially be- 
 nefited by liberal and frequent application. 
 
CHAPTEE lY. 
 
 THE DIFFERENT MODES OF PROPAGATING FETIIT TREES. 
 
 General BemavTcs. — The propagation of fruit trees may 
 be classed under two principal heads — the Natural^ 
 which is by seeds ; and the Artificial^ by the division of 
 the jplants^ as in cuttings^ layers^ suckeTS^ huds^ and 
 grafts. 
 
 PROPAGATION BY SEEDS. 
 
 Seedling fruit trees are propagated, either to obtain 
 new varieties, or stocks for budding or grafting. It is 
 only where the very rudest system of fruit culture is 
 practised, as for instance in newly-settled countries, that 
 seedlings are planted out to bear, for the reason that, 
 unless in very rare instances, varieties worthy of cultiva- 
 tion do not reproduce themselves from seed. Tlie im- 
 i:)ortant diiferences that exist between the seeds of dif- 
 ferent classes of fruit trees, render it necessary to treat of 
 each separately ; their management will therefore be given 
 in detail, in connection with the propagation of stocks. 
 
 There are some points, how^ever, of general application 
 that may be considered here with propriety. It scarcely 
 admits of a doubt, but that the greater part of the difficul- 
 ties met with in fruit tree culture, as maladies of various 
 sorts, nnfruitfulness, etc., are induced by a careless and 
 
PKOPAGATION BY SEEDS. 61 
 
 imdiscriminating system of propagation. The stock has 
 a most important influence on the health, longevity, fruit- 
 fulness, and symmetry of trees, and it does not seem pos- 
 sible that our indiscriminate mode of saying seeds for 
 stocks is at all consistent with rational, intelligent cul- 
 ture. 
 
 What is the ordinary course ? To raise apple seedlings, 
 a quantity of pomace is procured at the cider mill, with- 
 out the least regard to the quality or maturity of the fruits 
 from which it was produced, or of the health, yigor, and 
 hardiness of the trees that bore the fruit — these points are 
 neyer thought of. So it is in the case of pear seeds. 
 During the last few years, these seeds haye been nearly 
 as yaluable as gold dust ; the price being seldom less 
 than $5 per quart. The present season, a neighboring 
 nurseryman has paid at the rate of $4 per quart for a 
 bushel. How is this seed procured ? Is it selected fi'om 
 healthy, vigorous ti'ees, with sound constitutions, and 
 from perfect, well-matured fruits ? By chance it may be ; 
 but seed collectors are usually glad to find fruits of any 
 hind^ and from any sort of tree^ if they have only seeds 
 apparently good. "We do not, by any means, intend to 
 charge upon any man a fraudulent intent in this matter. 
 The seed collector is no more to blame than the nm-sery- 
 man, for the nurseryman seldom asks any particulars about 
 the origin of the seeds. How is it with peach trees ? The 
 peach is a short-lived tree, highly susceptible of deteriora- 
 tion from bad treatment ; and it is obviously impossible 
 for an unhealthy, feeble tree, to produce sound and healthy 
 plants from their seeds. In some districts of the country, a 
 sound, vigorous peach tree is a rarity ; and yet, how are 
 peach seeds saved and procured? The seeds are brought 
 in to the seedsman, he buys them without asking any ques- 
 tions about either the health or sickness of the trees that 
 produced them. They are peach stones, and that is all ne- 
 
62 GENERAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 cessaiy to be known. The nurseryman buys of the seeds- 
 man j ust as he received them ; this is the way that the comi- 
 try has been filled with miserable, diseased, and unsightly 
 trees, and who is in the fault « " Why," most people would 
 say, the " 7iurserymen^ of course. They ought to be more 
 careful in selecting their seeds, so that they might be cer- 
 tain of having sound and healthy stocks. They ought to 
 select the fruits, from which to obtain their seeds, while on 
 the tree, andsee that the trees are not in an incipient, or, 
 perhaps, an advanced state of decay, but in full health and 
 vigor, possessing such characters, as to habit, growth, and 
 hardiness, as are desirable in the best quality of nursery 
 stock." Very true, it must be admitted. This is j^recisely 
 the course that nurserymen ought to pursue. It is the 
 course followed in the great orchard districts of France, and 
 that ought to be adopted everywhere. But we must have 
 cheap, easy, and Wbor-samng modes of doing things now- 
 a-days ; as well the raising of trees as everything else. 
 Suppose a nurseryman could be found who would go about 
 the culture of trees after some such system as we have indi- 
 cated, it must be very clear that he could not sell his trees 
 as cheap as another, who followed the present almost uni- 
 versal hap-hazard course, and if he could not do this, the 
 probability is he would be compelled to keep them ; for 
 pm-chasers of trees, as a general thing, make no such discri- 
 minations. It happened one season that more than the 
 usual quantities of seedling, unworked, peach trees were 
 brought into the streets of Kochester for sale ; they were 
 as miserable, in all resjpeds, as trees could be ; yet they 
 were sold by the thousand, at from 4 to 8 cents apiece, 
 and scarcely one of them ever grew, for they were killed 
 by exposure, fortunately. At that very time there wxre 
 large stocks in the nurseries, about town, of good worked 
 trees of the best varieties, ofiered at one sMlling each. 
 This instance is quoted simply to show who are to blame 
 
PEOPAGATION BY SEEDS. 63 
 
 for tlie defective and vicions systems of propagation usually 
 practised. That there will be a reform soon is not to be 
 doubted. A discriminating spirit is already becoming ap- 
 parent among the best classes of cultivators, and their 
 example will soon be felt. The selection of seeds for stocks 
 is a point of more than ordinary importance, and merits 
 the special attention of every man engaged, to whatever 
 extent, in the propagation of fruit trees. 
 
 Production of New Yarieties. — ISTew varieties are j^ro- 
 duced from seeds that have been properly hybridized, as 
 described in the article on hybridization, or from seeds of 
 the best specimens of the best varieties. 
 
 Where it is desired to obtain seedlings of a particular 
 variety, free from any crossing with others, the flowers 
 should be protected while in blossom, to guard them 
 against foreign impregnation ; seeds should be saved only 
 from large, perfect, fine flavored specimens, and the seeds 
 themselves should be plump and mature. Sometimes a 
 good variety is obtained by selecting from beds of seed- 
 lings, such as possess marked evidences of improvement, 
 vigorous^ luxuriant growth^ large heavy foliage^ pro- 
 minent huds^ and smooth^ thornless ivood. These charac- 
 ters indicate superiority, but do not always ensure superior 
 fruit. The stock is supposed to exert consideraljle influ- 
 ence on the seed ; and if this be the case, it would be well 
 to get such varieties as we wish seeds from, on their own 
 roots, by layering, or grafting on roots in the ground, so 
 that the graft will itself strike root. Mr. Knight's mode 
 of obtaining seedlings, of the best varieties, was to prepare 
 stocks from some o-ood sort that would strike from cuttine-s. 
 These stocks he planted in rich warm soil, and grafted 
 with the kind he wanted the seeds from. The first season 
 after grafting he took them up, reduced the roots, and 
 planted again. In this way he had them bear fruit in two 
 
64 GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 
 
 years. He allowed only a conj)le of sj)ecimeiis to remain 
 on eacli tree, and these, consequently, were very large, 
 mature, and every w^ay fine, and from these ttie seeds were 
 taken. Seedlings may be tested quickly, by budding or 
 grafting them on bearing trees. "We may fruit apj^les and 
 pears in this w^ay, in four or five years, w^hilst ten or fif- 
 teen would be necessary on their own roots. Experimenters 
 on this subject have found the seeds of new varieties are 
 more certain to produce good fruit than the seed of old 
 ones. 
 
 2. By Division of tlie Plants. — It has been remarked 
 in the article on buds, that every bud is capable, under 
 favorable circumstances, of producing a new individual, 
 similar to that from which it is taken. 
 
 Hence it is, that out of the young annual wood of an ap- 
 ple, pear, peach, or any other fruit tree, we frequently 
 make several hundreds. Every good, well-formed bud, 
 properly separated, and inserted under the bark of the in- 
 dividuals of the same, or a closely allied, species, will, in 
 one year from its insertion, or with one season's growth, 
 have become a new tree. It is by these means we are 
 enabled to disseminate new varieties with such wonderful 
 rapidity. If a young tree of a new variety will make half 
 a dozen shoots the first season, each bearing half a dozen 
 buds, we can, if we have stocks to bud on, be in possession 
 of thirty trees of that variety in two years from the time 
 we obtained one tree, and in another year we may have 
 four times that number. The production of a tree from a 
 Imd.^ a groft.^ a layer .^ or a mitting^^ but the same thing 
 effected by different means. In all the cases, a j^art of the 
 parent plant, with one or more buds attached, is separated 
 from it. The cutting.^ sometimes composed of one bud or 
 joint, and sometimes of several, we j^ut directly in the 
 ground, where it forms roots, The graft is a cutting in- 
 
PKOPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 
 
 Go 
 
 perted, not in the gronnd, but in the wood of another plant 
 to which it unites. The bud inserted under the bark of 
 another tree, and the one buried in the ground, differ only 
 in this, that one draws its support directly from the soil, 
 and the other indirectly, through the tree to which it 
 unites. 
 
 Section 1. — Peopagation by Cuttings. 
 
 A cutting is a shoot, or part of a shoot, generally of one 
 season's growth. The length of the cutting varies from 
 a single eye or joint, to a foot, according to the nature of 
 the species, or the circumstances under which they are to 
 be grown. The wood should be as stout and mature as pos- 
 sible, and should be cut close and smooth to a bud at both 
 ends (fig. 56). In all cases, cuttings taken off closely to 
 the old wood, with the base attached, as in fig. 57, are 
 
 Figs. 56 to 59 cuttings. 56, a cutting, all of young wood. 57, a cutting, with a 
 heel of old wood. 58, a cutting, with 2 or 3 eyes of old wood. 59. a cutting, of a 
 single eye of the grape vine. 60, along cutting of the grape, line ^, B, surface of the 
 ground. 
 
60 GENERAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 more successful tlian when cut at several joints above ; 
 and in many cases, as in the quince for example, an inch 
 or tv/o of the old wood left attached to the base of the cut- 
 ting, as in fig. 58, renders it still more certain of success. 
 The more buds we can get around the base of a cutting, 
 the better, other things being equal ; for these buds, as soon 
 as they become active, send down new matter, from which 
 the roots are emitted. 
 
 Cuttings of the grape are sometimes made of a single 
 eye (fig. 59), with an inch or so of wood above and be- 
 low it. 
 
 The ti7ne to make cuttings is in the fall, as soon as the 
 wood is ripe, and through the early winter months. It 
 should not be deferred later than January. The soil for 
 cuttings is of the greatest importance to their success, for 
 if, on the one hand, it be cold, damp, and compact, they 
 will decay, and if too loose and sandy, they will dry up 
 for the want of sufiicient moisture. A soil so mellow that 
 it cannot bake, and yet so compact as to retain humidity 
 enough to suj^port the cuttings, until new roots are formed, 
 seems to be absolutely necessary — such a soil as we may 
 suppose a good garden border to be composed of. Rooted 
 plants can endure extremes, but cuttings require the most 
 favorable circumstances. 
 
 Tifne to Plant. — ^The fall would be the better season to 
 plant all cuttings, if we could cover them so as to prevent 
 the frost from heaving them out. It is on account of this 
 difiiculty that we plant, from necessity, in the spring ; but 
 spring planting must be done very early, that vegetation 
 may proceed gradually. If late planted, warm weather 
 comes on them at once, before they have formed roots 
 sufiicient to support the demands of the young leaves. 
 Where only a few are grown, shading might, at certain 
 times, be given, and some light substance, like saw dust, 
 
PEOPAGATION BY LAYERING. 67 
 
 be sj^read about tliem, to preserve an even temperature 
 and humidity, or they might be j)ut in a cold frame, where 
 they could receive any required attention. Where acres of 
 cuttings are grown, these things are not practicable. 
 
 Dejptli to plant. — As a general thing, cuttings should be 
 inserted so deep, that only two buds will be above the 
 surface of the ground, and in the vine only one. If cut- 
 tings are long, they need not be set perpendicular, but 
 sloping, so as to be within reach of heat and air. A 
 cutting of a single eye of the vine with a piece of wood 
 attached, must be entirely covered, say half an inch 
 deep ; see figures 56 to 60, ground line, A^ B. But such 
 cuttings are seldom planted, except in pots, in houses, or 
 in hotbeds. 
 
 Preserving Cuttings. — K cuttings are not planted in the 
 autumn, they should at least be prepared quite early in 
 the winter, and be buried in the earth out of doors, in a 
 pit. A. mound of earth should be drawn up over the pit 
 to throw off water. At the very first favorable moment in 
 the spring they should be planted. Trenches are opened 
 as deep as necessary wdth a spade, and the cuttings set in 
 it at the proper distance, from three inches to a foot, ac- 
 cording to circumstances. When the cuttings are in the 
 trench, the earth is partly filled in, and trod firmly down 
 with the foot, then the balance is filled in and levelled 
 up. 
 
 Cuttings require particular attention, in the way of weed- 
 ing and hoeing ; if weeds grow up thickly, and appropri- 
 ate the moisture of the ground, or if the sm-face be allowed 
 to crack, as it may after rains, if not quite sandy, they will 
 either make a feeble growth, or fail entirely. The ground 
 wants repeated stirring, to keep it friable and perfectly 
 free from weeds. 
 
68 
 
 GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 
 
 Section 2. — Propagation by Layering. 
 
 A layer is similar to a cutting, except that it is allowed 
 to remain in partial connection with the parent plant 
 until it has emitted roots. On this accomit, layers are 
 much more certain than cuttings. It is the best method 
 of propagating the grape and the gooseberry^ and also 
 the quince^ paradise^ and Doucain^ for stocks. It may be 
 performed in the spring with shoots of the previous 
 year's growth, before vegetation has commenced, or in 
 July and August on w^ood of the same season's growth. 
 The ordinary mode of doing it is, first, to spade over and 
 prepare the ground in which the branch is to be laid, in 
 order to make it light and friable. The branch is then 
 brought down to the ground (fig. 61), an incision is made 
 at the base of bud J., through the bark, and 
 partly through the wood; the knife is drawn ^| / 
 upward, splitting the shoot an inch 
 length, and the branch is laid in the 
 the cut open, and kept down 
 by means of a crooked or hooked 
 wooden peg, B. The earth is then 
 drawn in smoothly around, cov- 
 ering it two or three inches 
 deep; and the end of the 
 shoot that is above ground, is 
 tied up to a stick {G\ if it re- 
 quires sujDport. In the grape^ 
 gooseberry^ or currant^ a simple 
 notch below a bud is sufiicient, 
 
 and they will root if simply pegged down ; but roots are 
 formed more rapidly when the shoot is cut one third 
 through, and slit as described. 
 
 A long shoot of the vine may be layered at several 
 points, and thus produce several rooted plants in \\\^ 
 
 Fig. 61. 
 
 Tig. 61. a common layer. A^ the 
 incision. 5, hooked peg. C, 
 
riiOPAGATION BY LxVYEEING. 
 
 69 
 
 Fig. 62, Serpentine layer. 
 
 com-se of one season. This is called serpentine layering 
 (fig. 62). The Quince^ Paradise^ and Doucain stocks, 
 where raised in large quantities, are propagated 
 in a different way from that described. The pro- 
 cess requires much less labor ; and where plants 
 root so freely 
 as they do, it 
 answers every 
 purpose. 
 
 We will take 
 a plant of the 
 quince, for ex- 
 ample, and, in 
 the spring, before growth commences, we cut it down 
 nearly to the ground, leaving four or five buds at its base 
 (J., fig. 63). During that season, a number of vigorous 
 shoots will be made. The following autumn or sj^ring the 
 earth is drawn up around the base of the plant, so that 
 
 the crown where it 
 was cut will be 
 covered, and, con- 
 sequently, the base 
 of all the shoots 
 for several inches 
 in height. Dur- 
 ing the next sum- 
 mer's growth every 
 branch is suffi- 
 :^^= ciently rooted to 
 ^-^^^ be separated and 
 placed in nursery 
 
 A, the paint ^,^^,g ^^IQ fullowiug 
 
 sj^ring. This is the 
 way to obtain strong stocks ; for the cutting back of the 
 mother plant produces very vigorous shoots the first 
 
 r/^. 63, Mound layering or banking np 
 at which the mother plant was cut back. 
 
TO GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 
 
 season, and vdien another season's growth is added they 
 are as strong as can be desired. We succeed in rooting 
 these shoots the first season of their growth by earthing 
 them up about midsummer ; but they are not quite strong 
 enough, or sufficiently rooted, for transplanting and bud- 
 ding the following season. 
 
 Section 3. — Propagation by Suckers. 
 
 Suchers are shoots sent up from the roots. We ob- 
 serve them most frequently around trees that have had 
 their roots wounded by the spade or plough. The wounds 
 induce the formation of buds, and these buds send up 
 shoots. They are occasionally used from necessity for 
 stocks, but should not be employed where seedlings can 
 be obtained. Occasionally we find certain varieties of 
 plum throw up fine vigorous suckers, that would make 
 excellent stocks if taken off with good roots ; but their 
 tendency to produce suckers renders them exceedingly 
 annoying in gardens, and on this account objectionable. 
 The roots of the raspberry are full of buds, and, con- 
 sequently, throw up great quantities of suckers ; and the 
 smallest cuttings of the roots will grow. Suckers of any 
 plants that can easily be propagated by cuttings or layers, 
 should never be used. 
 
 Section 4. — Propagation by Budding. 
 
 This operation is performed during the growing season, 
 and usually on young trees from one to five years old, 
 with a smooth soft bark. It consists in separating a bud 
 with a portion of bark attached, from a shoot of the cur- 
 rent season's growth of one tree, and inserting it below 
 the bark of another. When this bud begins to grow, all 
 that part of the stock above it is cut away, the bud grows 
 on, and eventually forms a tree of the same variety as 
 
PROPAGATION BY BUDDING. 71 
 
 that from wliicli it was taken. Buds may be inserted in 
 June, and make considerable growth the same season, 
 but as a general thing this is not desirable in the propa- 
 gation of fruit trees. The ordinary season in the IN^orthern 
 States is from the middle of July till the middle of Sep- 
 tember, and the earliness or lateness at which a species 
 is budded depends, other things being equal, on the con- 
 dition of its growth. 
 
 Those accomplishing their growth early in the season 
 are budded early, and those that grow until the autumn 
 are budded late — thus the season extends over a period 
 exceeding two months. In all cases, the following condi- 
 tions are necessary : 
 
 1st. The huds must he perfectly developed in the axils 
 of the leaves on the young shoots intended to bud from. 
 This is seldom the case until the shoot has temporarily 
 ceased to lengthen, as indicated by the perfect formation 
 of its terminal bud. 
 
 If buds are 'wanted before this condition naturally ar- 
 rives, their maturity may be hastened very much by 
 pinching the tips of the shoots. In ten or twelve days 
 after the pinching of a very soft shoot, its buds are fit for 
 workino^. 
 
 2d. The harlc must rise freely from the stocla to he hud- 
 ded. This only happens when the stocks are in a thrifty 
 and growing state. Where only a few stocks are to be 
 worked, they can be easily watered, if necessary, a week 
 or so before it is desirable to bud them. Trees that ac- 
 complish most of their growth early in the season, must 
 be watched and budded before they cease to grow ; those 
 that grow very late, must not be budded early, or the 
 formation of new wood will surround and cover the buds ; 
 in gardener's language, they will be " drowned by the 
 sap." 
 
 The implements needed are a pruning hnJfe to dress 
 
72 GENERAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 the stocks, by removing anj branches that may be in the 
 way of inserting the bud ; and a hudding hiife to take 
 off the buds and make the incisions in the stock. The 
 latter should have a very thin, smooth, and keen edge. 
 
 Strings for tying in tlie hitds are either taken from bass 
 mats, or they are prepared from the bark of the bass- 
 wood. We always prepare our own ; we send to the woods 
 and strip the bark off the trees in June ; we then put it 
 in water from two to three weeks, according to the age 
 of the bark, until its tissue is decomposed, and the fibrous, 
 paper-like inner bark is easily separated from the outer, 
 when it is torn into strips, dried, and put away for use. 
 Before using, it should always be moistened to make it 
 tough and pliable. 
 
 Cutting and Preparing the Buds. — ^Young shoots in 
 the condition described, are cut below the lowest ]3lump 
 bud ; an inch or two of the base of every shoot, where the 
 buds are very close together, and quite small, should be 
 left. The leaves are then stripped off, leaving half of 
 each leaf stalk to handle the bud by, as in fig. 63. 
 
 Presermng the Buds. — When a considerable quantity 
 is cut at once, they should be wrapped in a damp cloth 
 as soon as cut and stripped of the leaves, and they may 
 be preserved in good order for ten days, by keeping them 
 in a cool cellar among damp saw-dust, or closely envelop 
 ed in damp cloths, matting, or moss. We often send buds 
 a week's journey, packed in moss slightly moistened ; the 
 leaves being oft", the evaporation is trifling, none in fact 
 when packed up, consequently very little moisture is 
 needed. 
 
 Having the stocks, buds, and implements in the condi- 
 tion described, the operation is performed in this w^ay : 
 
 The shoot to bud from is taken in one hand, and the 
 budding knife in the other, the lower part of the edge 
 of the knife is placed on the shoot half an inch above the 
 
PROPAGATION BY BUDDING. 
 
 73 
 
 bud to be removed (^4, fig. 64), the thumb of the knife- 
 hand rests on the shoot 
 below the bud {JB\ a 
 drawing cut is then 
 made, parallel with the 
 shoot, removing the 
 bud and the bark to 
 which it is attached, 
 half an inch above, 
 and three quarters be- 
 low it. This is the 
 usual length, but it 
 may in many cases be 
 shorter. The cut is 
 made just deep enough 
 to be below the bark, 
 a small portion of the 
 wood is always taken 
 
 64 to 70, Budding. 
 
 Fig. 64, a shoot of buds with the leaves taken 
 off. ^, the point above Ihe bud where the knife 
 was inserted. B, tlie point below where it comes 
 out. Fig. 65, is a bud badlj- taken off, with a 
 hollow in the centre. Fig. 66, a good bud. .^, 
 root of the bud. B, root of the leaf. 
 
 M'^ 86. 70. 
 
 Fig. 67, a stock with the bark slit vertically and across. Fig. 6S, the same 
 with the bark raised as far as the dotted line. Fig. 69, the same with the 
 bud inserted. Fig. 70, the same tied up. 
 
 off with it, and if this adheres firmly it should be allowed 
 
 4 
 
74 GENERAL PEINCIPLES; 
 
 to remain; if it parts freely, it should be taken out, but in 
 doing so the root of the bud must be carefully preserved, 
 for if it comes out with the wood, the bud is useless. The 
 root of the bud, as it is termed, is a small portion of wood 
 in the hollow part of the inside of the bud. Fig. 64 is a 
 good bud, A^ root of bud, B^ root of leaf. Fig. 65 is im- 
 perfect, the roots of leaf and bud both out. A smooth 
 place on the stock, clear of branches, is then chosen, 
 where two incisions are made to the depth of the bark, one 
 across the end of the other, so as to form a T, iig. 67; the 
 bark on the two edges of the perjoendicular cut is raised 
 (fig. 68) with the smooth ivory handle of the budding 
 knife, and the bud is inserted between them (fig. 69) ; the 
 upper end of the bark attached to • the bud is cut square, 
 to fit to the horizontal cut on the stock, the bass string is 
 then wound around tightly, comniencing at the bottom, 
 and covering every part of the incision, leaving the bud 
 itself, and the leaf-stalk, uncovered (fig. YO), the string is 
 fastened above the horizontal cut, and the work is done. 
 The success of the operation, as far as its execution is con- 
 cerned, depends, in a great measure, OTi smooth ciits^ an 
 exact fit of the hud to tlie incision made for it^ secure^ 
 close tying^ that will completely exclude air and rain wa- 
 ter, and the quick performance of the whole. The inser- 
 tion of a bud should not, in any case, occupy more than a 
 oninute ^ ordinary practised budders will set two in that 
 time, and often two hundred in an hour with a person to 
 tie. Where the stocks and buds work well, two thousand 
 is not an uncommon day's v/ork in our nurseries, especially 
 of cherries, peaches, and apples. 
 
 "Where only a few buds are to be set, a cool, moist day 
 or evening should be selected, as they will be more cer- 
 tain of success than if inserted during the middle of a hot, 
 dry day. 
 
 The chief difficulty experienced by beginners in bud- 
 
PEOrAGATION BY GRAFTING. Y5 
 
 ding, is the proper removal, of the bud. When itliappens 
 that the knife passes exactly between the bark and wood, 
 the bud cannot fail to be good ; but this rarely ha23pens— 
 more or less wood is attached, and the removal of this is 
 tlie nice point. Where the buds are fiat, the ditficulty is 
 less than when they have large prominent shoulders, as 
 the plum and pear have, in many cases. When all the 
 wood is taken out of these, a cavity remains, which does 
 not come in contact with the wood on which the bud is 
 placed, and therefore, although the bark unites well, the 
 bud will not grow. Sometimes, such as these are sepa- 
 rated by making an incision through the bark ; lift the 
 edge of the bark attached to the bud with the knife, and 
 push it oif with the fingers. A safer way still is to cut 
 around the bud, and draw a strong silk thread betw^een 
 the bark and wood, thus removing the bud in perfection. 
 
 Section 5. — Propagation by Grafting. 
 
 Grafting is the insertion of a scion of one species or 
 variety on the stem or branch of another, which is called 
 the stocli. Its principal object is to increase certain varie- 
 ties that cannot be reproduced from seed Avith certainty ; 
 but it is Irerpiently performed w^ith other objects in view. 
 For instance — • 
 
 To Fruit a New Yariety. — A scion inserted in a 
 branch of a bearing tree, will bear fruit perhaps the 
 second year from the graft ; but if the same scion had 
 been put on a young seedling, it would not have borne in 
 ten years. 
 
 One srjecies is frequently grafted wdtli success upon 
 another, by which certain important modifications are 
 wrought upon both the size and fruitfulness of trees, and 
 the quality of the fruits. Thus, we can graft, in many 
 cases, with highly beneficial results, the peach and apri- 
 
76 GENEEAL PKINCIPLES. 
 
 cot on the plum ; the pear on the quince ; strong grow- 
 ing species and varieties on weaker ones, and vice versa. 
 But experience has established the fact, that there must 
 be between the stock and graft a close alliance. We 
 cannot graft an ajjjjle on ^ peach., nor a cherry on 2^ pear ' 
 but the pear, the apple, quince, medlar, thorn, and moun- 
 tain ash — a naturally allied group — may, with more or 
 less success, be worked upon one another. 
 
 The French horticulturists, who are the most skilful 
 and curious in all matters pertaining to the propagation 
 of plants, describe in their works upwards of one hun- 
 dred different modes of grafting, practised in different 
 ages and countries, and for the attainment of particular 
 objects ; but, however interesting the study of all these 
 may be to the student and experimentalist, the great 
 bulk of them are of little practical utility, and are never 
 applied in the multiplication of fruit trees. It is, there- 
 fore, unnecessary to fill up the pages of such a treatise as 
 this, with either a historical account or description of 
 them. The methods described below are those univer- 
 sally adopted, with slight modifications, by the best prac- 
 tical propagators everywhere at the present day. 
 
 Stocks are of all ages from a yearling seedling to a 
 tree forty or fifty years old ; but of whatever age, they 
 should be sound and healthy. ISTursery stocks will be 
 more particularly spoken of in the proper place. 
 
 Scions are generally shoots of the previous year's 
 growth. Rarely those bearing fruit buds are used for the 
 purpose of exj)eriment, but in such cases only. They 
 should be cut in the autumn after the fall of the leaf, or 
 in the winter, and be preserved carefully in earth till 
 wanted for use. If intended for root-grafting early in the 
 spring in the house, it will be sufficient to bury their 
 lower ends in earth, in a cool, dry cellar ; but if wanted 
 for out-door grafting, they should be buried in dry sandy 
 
xxc^xAUATION BY GKAFTING. 7Y 
 
 soil^ ill a i^it, on the nortli side of a wall or fence, and 
 deeply covered with earth drawn np in a mound to throw 
 off the water. They are thus kept perfectly dormant 
 until used, and not so dry as to shrivel the bark. They 
 should always be taken from healthy, vigorous trees ex- 
 clusively^ and be of firm, Avell-ripened wood. A mode- 
 rate-sized shoot or scion, if well matured and sound, is 
 much better tHaii one as thick as a man's finger, ^^V/^y 
 and unripe. People are by no means so carefid and dis- 
 criminating in this respect as they ought to be. Half of 
 the maladies of trees originate in negligent and vicious 
 systems of propagation. The implements used in graft- 
 ing are the grcifting-hiife^ saiL\ and cMsel (see imple- 
 ments). In whip-grafting or S2:)lice-grafting, the stocks 
 being small require the knife only, or not more than 
 the knife and chisel. It is always better to have two 
 knives — one to prune and do the rough work, and the 
 other to prepare the scion. Grafting com])osition is pre- 
 pared in various ways. Rosin ^ heesioctx^ and talloio^ in 
 about equal parts, answer very well. Lately, however, 
 we have found it better to use more rosin and less bees- 
 wax and tallow ; thus, to two pounds of rosin we add 
 one and one fourth pomids of beeswax, and three fourths 
 of a pound of tallow. For whip-grafting on the root, 
 and small trees in the nursery, we use cloth saturated with 
 this composition, instead of the composition itself, and 
 find it more convenient and expeditious. If we have no 
 old calico, v,'e buy a very thin article, at about four cents 
 per yard. This we tear into narrow strips, roll into balls, 
 and then soak in the liquid composition until every pore 
 of the cloth is filled with it. The person who aj^plies it 
 to the grafts takes it from these balls, tears it in ]3ieces 
 the length and breadth required by the size of the stock, 
 and two or three turns of it around the graft secure it 
 completely. TJjis thin cloth soon decays, and yields to 
 
78 
 
 GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 
 
 tlie enlargement of the parts it encloses. We liave tried 
 tow, paper, and other materials, but find this the best. 
 Having the scions, implements, and composition in readi- 
 ness, the work is performed as follows : 
 
 Whip- Grafting on the Root. — For this pnrpose, seed- 
 ling stocks are generally used, one or two years old, vary- 
 ing from onefourtJi to tliree eigldlis of an inch in diameter. 
 The graft is always made at the collar, ancT, therefore, the 
 stems of the plants are cut off at that point ; the small 
 tap-roots and any cumbrous fibres are removed, leaving 
 them about four inches in length (fig. Yl) ; they are then 
 washed clean, and are ready for the operation. The 
 grafter then makes a smooth, even, sloping cut, an inch 
 long, upwards on the collar of the root, 
 A / and in the centre of this cut, he makes 
 a slit or tongue, ^, downwards. The scion, 
 which should be tln-ee or four inches long 
 (fig. 72), is cut on 
 the lower end with 
 a sloping cut down- 
 wards, and similar 
 in all respects to 
 that made on the 
 
 stock ; a 
 
 slit, or 
 
 tongue, is made in 
 it upwards, ^, cor- 
 responding, also, 
 with that on the 
 stock ; and they 
 are then neatly 
 
 11. 
 
 Figs. 71 to ' 
 
 Rooi 
 
 fitted together, the 
 tongue of the one 
 within the other 
 (J., fig. 73), and the 
 inner barks of both placed In close and })erfect contact, at 
 
 Fig. 71. the root. Jl^ the sloping cut .B, the tongue. 
 Fig. 72, the scion. Jl., the sloping cut. B, tongue. Q 
 bud at top. Fig. 73, the union of scion and stock. 
 
PROrAGATION BY GRAFTING. 79 
 
 least on one side. The fit should be so complete as to sit 
 close and iirm in all parts. The person who applies the 
 wax, takes a narrow strip of the cloth described, and 
 wraps it firmly around, covering the parts united. A man 
 and boy can graft of these twelye to fifteen hundred per 
 day, and by a special efi:brt two thousand. When the 
 grafting is thus performed, the grafted plants are put 
 away as closely as they can be packed in small boxes, 
 with sandy earth among the roots, and deposited either 
 in a cold cellar or in a dry place out of doors, where 
 frost cannot penetrate to the roots, until planting time in 
 S]3ring. 
 
 Whij) Grafting on small trees, standing in the oj^en 
 ground, is j^erformed in precisely the same manner, the 
 oblique or sloping cut and tongue, corresponding in stock 
 and graft, fitting into each other with 23recision, and tlie 
 inner bark of both, at least on one side, placed in close 
 contact. Stocks an inch in diameter can be grafted in this 
 way. Either tlie cloth or the liquid composition may be 
 applied, the latter put on with a brush. For all moderate 
 sized stocks the cloth is preferable. In cold weather, a 
 small furnace can be kept at hand to keep the composi- 
 tion in working order. 
 
 Gleft Grafting is practised on trees or branches too 
 large for whip grafting, say from an inch in diameter up- 
 wards. In this case, the scion is cut precisely in the form of 
 a wedge (fig. T-i). The part cut for insertion in the stock, 
 should be about an inch or an inch and a half long, with 
 a bud {A) at the shoulder, where it is to rest on the stock ; 
 this bud hastens the union of the parts, in the same way 
 as a bud at the base of a cutting, set in the earth, hastens 
 and facilitates the emission of roots : the outer edge should 
 also be somewhat thicker than the inner. A sloping cut 
 {A^ fig 75) is then made on the stock, an inch and a half 
 
80 
 
 GENERAL PEmCIPLES. 
 
 long, another cut {B) is made across this cut, 
 about half way clown, as at point B, the stock 
 is split on one side of the pith, by laying the 
 chisel on the horizontal surface, and striking 
 lightly with a mallet; the split is kept open 
 with the knife or chisel till the scion is inserted 
 with the thick side 
 out {A, fig. Y4). 
 Grafts of this kind 
 heal much more ra- 
 pidly than when cut 
 at once horizontally. 
 Yery large branches 
 are sawed horizon- 
 tally ofi" at the point 
 to be grafted {A^ fig. 
 TY); the surface is 
 then pared smooth 
 with the knife, a 
 split is made with 
 the chisel, nearly in 
 the centre, and hvo 
 
 Figs. 74 to 76, Clift Grafting 
 
 Fig. 74, the scion prepared with a sloping cut on 
 each side like a wedge. A, a bud at the shoulder. 
 Fig. 75, the stock cut and split. ^, the sloping cut. 
 -, , ., ' . . ^, the horizontal cut. Fig. 76, the scion inserted in 
 
 wedge-like scions m- the stock. 
 serted(J.,^,fig.Y8); 
 
 if both grow, and they are afterwards too close, one can be 
 cut away. Another mode of grafting such large stocks, or 
 branches, is to cut them ofi' horizontally, as above, and pare 
 them smooth w^ith the knife ; then cut the scion on one side, 
 about an inch and a half long, making a shoulder at the 
 top, then raise the bark from the stock with the handle of 
 a budding knife, and insert the scion between the bark 
 and wood, and apply the composition the same as in the 
 others, all over the cut part. Two or three scions may be 
 ]uit in each. The principal objection to this mode is, that 
 
TROPAGATION BY GKAFTING. 
 
 81 
 
 the grafts, if tliey grow rapidly, are apt to be blown off 
 before they have united strongly to the stock. 
 
 The great points to observe always are, /^ 
 to have sharj) insti-uments that will make ' 
 
 smooth clean cuts, to have placed in per- 
 fect contact the inner barks of scion and 
 stock, and the whole cut surface, and 
 every portion of the split 
 perfectly covered with the 
 composition, to exclude 
 air and water. The scion 
 should always be cut 
 close to a bud at the 
 point (<?, fig. 71), and have 
 a bud at the shoulder, or 
 point of union with the 
 stock {A, fig. 73). 
 
 In grafting the heads 
 of large trees, it is not 
 convenient to use the 
 composition in a melted 
 state, to be put on with 
 the brush, and the large cut surfaces cannot well be covered 
 with the cloth ; it is therefore better to use the composi- 
 tion in such a state that it can be put on with the hands. 
 A very small quantity of brick dust may be advantage- 
 ously mixed with it, when intended for this pm']30se, to 
 j)revent its being melted by the sun. 
 
 Double WorMng. — ^When we graft or bud a tree ab 
 ready budded or grafted, we call it " double worked." 
 Certain very important advantages are gained by it. Some 
 varieties are of such feeble growth, that it is impossible to 
 make good trees of them in the ordinary way of working 
 on common stocks. In such cases, we use worked trees of 
 strong growing sorts as stocks for them. 
 4* 
 
 77 and 78, cleft grafting, large trees or 
 branches. 77, the stock cut horizontally 
 at ^. 78, the same, with two scions inserted. 
 
82 GENERAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 Many varieties of the pear do not unite well with the 
 quince stock ; we therefore bud other varieties of strong 
 growth that do sncceed, and use them for stocks to work 
 the others on. By this means we are enabled to possess 
 dwarf trees of many varieties, that we conld not otherwise 
 have in that form. We have fruited the Dix in two years 
 by double working on the quince, w^hen otherwise it would 
 have taken not less than seven. A great many improve- 
 ments may be effected, not only in the form and growth 
 of trees, but in the quality of the fruit, by double working. 
 Yery few experiments have yet been made on the subject 
 in this country, except from necessity ; but the general in- 
 terest now felt on all matters pertaining to fruit tree cul- 
 ture, cannot fail to direct attention to this and similar 
 matters that have heretofore, in a great measure, been 
 overlooked. 
 
CHAPTEE Y. 
 
 PKUNING ITS PRINCIPLES AXD PRACTICE. 
 
 This is one of the most important operations connected 
 with the management of trees. From the removal of the 
 seedling plant from the seed bed, through all its succes- 
 sive stages of groAvth and maturity, pruning, to some 
 extent, and for some purpose, is necessary. It may, 
 therefore, be reasonably presumed, that no one is capable 
 of managing trees successfully, and especially those con- 
 ducted under certain forms, more or less opposed to 
 nature, without knowing well lioio to ijrune^ what to ]yrune^ 
 and when to frune. This knowledge can only be acquired 
 by a careful study of the structure of trees, because the 
 pruning applied to a tree must (aside from the general 
 principles on which all pruning depends) be adapted to 
 its j)articular habits of growth and mode of bearing its 
 fruit. It is in view of this fact that the chapter on the 
 structure and mode of fomiation of the different parts of 
 fruit trees has been given in the first part of this treatise, 
 that it may form the basis of this branch of culture. 
 
 The idea that our bright American sun and clear 
 atmosphere render pruning an almost unnecessary ope- 
 ration, has not only been inculcated by horticultural 
 writers, but has been acted upon in practice to such an 
 extent that more than three fourths of all the bearing 
 fruit trees in the country, at this moment, are either lean, 
 misshaped skeletons, or the heads are perfect masses of 
 
84 GENERAL rEINCIPLES. 
 
 wood, unable to yield more tliaii one bushel of fruit in 
 ten, well matured, colored, and ripened. 
 
 This is actually the case even in what may be called, 
 in comparison, well managed orchards. Look at the dif 
 ferenee between the fruits produced on young and old trees. 
 The former are open, the fruits are exposed to the sun, and, 
 therefore, they are not only large and perfect, but their 
 skins are smooth and brilliant, as though they were painted 
 and polished. This ought to teach us something about 
 pruning ; but this is only one point. We prune one por- 
 tion of a tree to reduce its vigor, and to favor the growth 
 of another and weaker part. We prune a stem, a branch, 
 or a shoot to produce ramifications of these parts, and 
 thus change or modify the form of the whole tree. We 
 prune to induce fruitfulness, and to diminish it. We 
 prune in the growing as well as in the dormant season ; 
 and, finally, we prune both roots and branches. Thus we 
 see that pruning is applied to all parts of the tree, at all 
 seasons, and to produce the most opposite results. 
 
 It appears necessary to treat of pruning under each of 
 these circumstances separately. 
 
 1st. Pruning to Direct the Growth from one Part of 
 a Tree to another. — ^The first period in the existence and 
 growth of a tree in which this becomes necessary, is in 
 the nursery. Tliose who have had any experience in tree 
 culture, have observed that young trees in nursery rows 
 have a tendency to increase in height without acquiring a 
 well-proportioned increase in diameter. In certain cases, 
 this want of proportion becomes so great, that the tree 
 bends under its own weight ; and hence, it is necessary 
 to resort to some method of propping it up. This con- 
 dition is attributable to several causes. First, the absence 
 of a suflacient amount of air and light around the stem, to 
 enable the leaves on it to fulfil their functions properly. 
 It has been shown that the formation of new wood de- 
 
PEUNING. 85 
 
 peiids upon the elaborating process carried on in the 
 leaves, and that this jDrocess can be maintained only in a 
 free exposure to the sun and air. This being the case, it 
 is obvious that any part of the tree excluded from the 
 action of these agents, cannot keep pace in growth with 
 other 23arts to which they have full access. In nursery 
 rows, as trees are usually i^lanted, the stems, after the 
 iirst year's growth, are, to a great extent, excluded from 
 the light, consequently the buds and leaves on them can- 
 not perform their parts in the creation of new wood. The 
 top of the tree, however, is fully exposed, and, conse- 
 quently, it makes a rapid growth towards the free air and 
 light. When this is continued for two or three years in 
 succession, the tree becomes top-heavy ; the quantity 
 of woody fibre at the top is as great as, and it may be 
 greater than, at the bottom ; and hence it bends luider its 
 own weight. 
 
 2d. The Tendency of tlie Sap to the Growing Points at 
 tTie Top of the Tree. — Growth is alw^ays the most active 
 andvigorous, when trees are in a natural condition, at the 
 newly-formed parts. The young buds are the most excit- 
 able, and the more direct their communication with the 
 roots, the more rapid will be their growth. Hence it is 
 that a yearling tree furnished with fifteen to twenty buds 
 or more, from its base to its top, frequently produces a 
 shoot from its terminal bud only, and seldom more than 
 three or four shoots from the whole number of buds, and 
 these at the top. This natural tendency, and the exclusion 
 of light from the stems of nursery trees, by their closeness 
 to one another, are the chief causes of weak and crooked 
 trees, to counteract which we resort to pruning. 
 
 In " heading downP a young tree^ we cut away one 
 third or one half of the length of the stem, and this removes 
 the actively growing parts ; the sap must then find new 
 channels. Its whole force is directed to the buds that were 
 
86 GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 
 
 before dormant, they are excited into growth, and produce 
 new wood and leaves ; these send down new layers of 
 woody fibre on the old stem, and it increases rapidly in 
 diameter, so that by the time it has attained its former 
 height, the base is two or three times as thick as the 
 top, and possesses sufficient strength to maintain an erect 
 position. 
 
 Maintaining an equal growth among the hranches of a 
 tree is conducted on the same principle. Branches that 
 are more favorably placed than others, appropriate more 
 than their due proportion of the sap, and grow too vigor- 
 ously, are checked, by removing more or less of their grow- 
 ing points ; this lessens the flow of sap to that point, and 
 it naturally takes its course to the growing parts of the 
 weaker branches that were left entire, and thus a balance 
 is restored. 
 
 Pruning to renew tlie Growth of Stunted Trees. — ^It 
 frequently hap]3ens that trees, from certain causes, become 
 stunted, and almost cease to grow ; the sap vessels be- 
 come contracted, and every part assumes a comparatively 
 dormant condition. In such cases they are cut back, the 
 number of their buds and leaves is reduced, the wdiole 
 force of the sap is made to act upon the small number re- 
 maining, and enables them to produce vigorous young 
 shoots ; these send down new w^oody matter to the stem, 
 new roots are also formed, and thus the whole tree is re- 
 newed and invigorated. 
 
 Pruning to induce Fruitftdness.- — ^This is conducted on 
 the principle that whatever is favorable to rapid, vigorous 
 growth, is unfavorable to the immediate production of 
 fruit. Hence the object in view must be to check growth 
 and impede the circulation of the sap, just the opposite of 
 pruning to renew growth. The only period at which this 
 pruning can be performed, is after vegetation has com- 
 menced. If a tree is severely pruned immediately after 
 
PRUNING. 87 
 
 it has put fortli its leaves, it receives sncli a clieck as to be 
 unable to produce a vigorous growth the same season; 
 the sa-p is impeded in its circulation, and the result is that 
 a large number of the young shoots that would have made 
 vigorous wood branches, had they not been checked, as- 
 sume the character of fruit spurs and branches. Pincli- 
 ing is the princi^^al mode of pruning to promote fruitful- 
 ness, and will be explained hereafter. It depends upon 
 the above princij^le, of impeding the circulation of the sap 
 and checking gro^^^h. 
 
 Pruning to diniinisli fruiffulness^ is conducted on the 
 same principle as that to renew growth, for this, in fact, 
 is the object. 
 
 Pruning the Poots. — This is practised as well to pro- 
 mote fruitfulness, as to lessen the dimensions of trees. 
 The roots, as has been shown, are the organs that absorb 
 from the ground the principal food of the tree, and in j^ro- 
 portion to their number, size, and activity, other things 
 being equal, are the vigor and growth of the stem and 
 branches. Hence when a tree is deprived of a certain 
 jDortion of its roots, its supply of food from the soil is les- 
 sened, growth is checked, the sap moves slowly in its 
 channels, is better elaborated in the leaves, and the young 
 branches and buds begin to assume a fruitful character. 
 
 Eoots are also pruned to prevent them from penetrat- 
 ing too deeply into the earth, and induce the formation of 
 lateral roots near the surface, similar to the cutting back 
 of a stem to produce lateral branches ; the principle is the 
 same. 
 
 Pruning at the time of Transjjlanting. — ^This is per- 
 foiTQcd, not only to remove bruised and broken roots and 
 branches, but to restore the tree to a proper balance. As 
 trees are ordinarily taken from the ground, the roots are 
 bruised, broken, or mutilated, to a greater or less extent. 
 This obviously destroys the natural balance or proportion 
 
88 GENERAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 that existed between tlie roots and stem, and in such a 
 condition the tree is nnable to grow. The demand upon 
 the roots must therefore be lessened, by reducing the stem 
 and branches in length or number, or both ; and the more 
 the roots have suffered, the greater must be the reduction 
 of the stem and branches, to bring them to a correspond- 
 ing condition. 
 
 PEIJNING MECHANICALLY CONSmEKED. 
 
 Having now treated of the principles on which prim- 
 ing depends, it remains to speak of its mechanical execution ; 
 for it is not only necessary to know what and why, but 
 lioio to prune. Theory is only useful as it serves to guide 
 in practice. 
 
 1st. Priming Stems or Brandies. — ^The great point to 
 be observed in making incisions on the stems and branches 
 of trees, is to provide for the s^^eedy and perfect healing 
 of the wounds or cut surfaces. In removing a j^ortion of 
 a branch or stem, if we cut between two joints, and thus 
 leave a 23ortion of wood above the bud intended to be 
 cut to, as in %. 79, this wood dies, and we have the 
 trouble of another pruning to remove it. If we cut too 
 close to the bud, and thus remove a portion of the wood 
 with which it is connected, as in fig. 80, the bud will 
 either die or disappoint us by producing a very feeble 
 growth. The jDroper way is to take the branch to be 
 operated on in the left hand, place the edge of the knife 
 on it, opposite the lower part of the bud to be cut to, 
 and then make a firm, quick, smooth draw-cut, slop- 
 ing upwards, so that the knife will come out on a level 
 with the point of the bud, as in fig. 81. In soft- 
 wooded, pithy trees, like the grape vine, for example, 
 half an inch of wood ought to be left above the bud. 
 The cut should also be made as much as possible on \k\Q 
 
PEIIOTNG. 
 
 89 
 
 lower side of the branch to prevent rain from lodging in 
 the centre. The position of the bud cut to, is also worthy 
 of consideration in pruning, to produce or modify certain 
 
 80. ? OL 
 
 Figs. 79 to S'2, pruning. 
 
 Fig. 79. cutting too far above the bud. Fig. 80, cutting too close. Fig. 81, 
 the cut a.s it should be. Fig. 82. removal of a branch, the cross line indicat- 
 ing the proper place for the cut. 
 
 forms. When we wish the new shoot of a lateral branch 
 to take, as much as possible, an upriglit direction, we 
 prune to a bud on the inside / and if we wish it to sjpread^ 
 we choose one on the outside. In the annual supj^ression, 
 or cutting back young trees, to form a stem or side 
 branches, the bud selected to form the leader is chosen on 
 (ypjposite sides every successive year^ in order to maintain 
 the gro^i:h in a straight line. If cut every year to a bud 
 on the same side, it would, in two or three seasons, show 
 an inclination to that side injm-ious to the symmetry of 
 the tree. 
 
 The Bemovcd of Large BrancJies^ where they are to be 
 entirely separated from the tree, is often very clumsily 
 performed. In orchards, it is not at all uncommon to see 
 them choj^ped oif with a common axe ; and even in gar- 
 dens there seem to be few persons who either know how, 
 or take the i^roper care in this matter. They are either 
 cut so that a portion of the base of the branch remains, 
 and sends out vigorous shoots, defeating the objects of the 
 
90 
 
 GENERAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 pruning, or tliey are cut so close tliat a porticm of the 
 wood of the main branch or stem is taken with them, 
 and a wound made that years are required to heal np. 
 Both these extremes ought to be avoided. 
 
 The surface of the cut made by the removal of a branch 
 should in no case be larger than the base of the branch. 
 Where a branch is nnited to another, or to the main stem, 
 we notice both above and below the j^oint of nnion, a 
 small 2:>rojection or shoulder, as at the cross line in lig. 82. 
 The knife must enter just below that shoulder, and, by 
 being drawn upwards in a straight line, the base is so 
 completely removed that no shoots can be 23roduced there ; 
 and yet the cut surface on the stem is no larger than the 
 base of the branch. When the saw is used, the surface 
 of the cut should be pared smooth with the knife, to pre- 
 vent water lodging on it, and facilitate the healing of the 
 womid. 
 
 2d. Priming the Boots.— lihi^ is performed by opening 
 a trench aronnd the tree, just at the extremities of the 
 roots : the distance from the tree Avill, therefore, depend on 
 its size, and the spreading characters of the roots. The 
 trench should be the width of a common garden spade, 
 and deep enough to admit of an inspection of all the 
 roots of the tree. If the lateral roots are to be shortened, 
 this is done first. The knife should be placed on the 
 lower side of the root, and the part separated with a 
 clean draw-cut, such as would be performed on a branch. 
 If the tree has vertical, or tap roots, they are most 
 easily oj^erated on with a sharp spade, prepared and kept 
 for the purpose. A smart stroke witli such a spade, in as 
 nearly a horizontal direction as possible, will separate a 
 pretty strong root. The extent to which root pruning 
 may be performed, depends on the character of the 
 species, the condition of the tree as regards growth, and 
 the object aimed at. Those practising it for the first time, 
 
TEUNING. 91 
 
 should go to work witli great caution. It will be better 
 to operate too ligbtlj than too severely. As regards the 
 season, it may be performed either at the end of the first 
 growth, in July or August, or in the autumn or winter, 
 when vegetation is quite suspended. We have operated 
 on cherry trees with complete success in August, in a dry 
 time, wdien little growth was going on. At this season, a 
 copious watering should be given after the pruning is per- 
 formed. 
 
 Imj^lements of j^i'^^i^ing, and the mode of using them, 
 will be treated of in the chapter on implements, to be 
 given hereafter. 
 
 The Season fen' Pruning. — "We are not permitted to be 
 very definite on this point. The climate, the nature of 
 the species, etc., control the period of pruning to a great 
 extent. In the south, what we term the winter pruning — 
 that performed during the dormant season — may be done 
 very soon after the fall of the leaf. In the north, it is 
 deferred to February, March, and even April. In western 
 i^ew York, we prune apples^ jpeetrs^ and other hardy fruits, 
 as soon as our severe frosts are over — say the latter end 
 of February and beginning of March. If pruned sooner, 
 the ends of the shoots are liable to be injured, and the 
 terminal bud so weakened as not to fulfil its pur230ses. 
 Besides, the wounds do not heal well. 
 
 T^^ peacli we prune just as the buds begin to swell. 
 The fruit and leaf buds are then easily distinguished 
 from one another, and the objects of the j^mning are ac- 
 complished with more precision. 
 
 Grapes may be pruned any time in the winter, as a 
 portion of wood is always left above the bud. Goose- 
 herries and curremts also, any time in winter. The 
 stone fruits should always be lightly j^runed, because 
 severe amputations almost invariably produce the gum. 
 "Where it is absolutely necessary in the spring, the w^ound 
 
92 GENEEAL PEINCirLES. 
 
 should be coated with grafting composition, or with that 
 recommended by Mr. Downing : " Alcohol, with sufficient 
 gum shellac dissolved in it, to make a liquid of the con- 
 sistence of paint, to be put on with a brush." 
 
 This excludes air, and is not affected by changes of 
 weather. 
 
 Pinching is a sort of anticipated pruning, practised 
 upon the young growing shoots, intended to promote a uni- 
 form circulation of the sap, and thus regulate the growth, 
 and also to induce fruitfulness. 
 
 1st. To Regulate the Growth. — In the management of 
 trees, this is an operation of great imjDortance, as it obvi- 
 ates the necessity of heavy amputations being made at the 
 winter or spring pruning. Instead of allowing certain 
 superfluous or misplaced shoots to acquire their full deve- 
 lopment at the expense of other parts, we pinch them 
 early, and give to the necessary parts, or branches of the 
 tree, the nutriment which they would have appropriated, 
 if allowed to remain. In this way, we are able to obtain 
 results in one season, that two or more would be required 
 for, if w^e depended wholly on the winter pruning. We 
 will suppose, for an example, the case of a young nm^sery 
 tree in the second year, intended for a standard. In ordi- 
 nary cases, the terminal bud, either the natural one or that 
 pruned to, is developed into the leading shoot or stem, 
 and a greater or less number of buds below it produce 
 branches ; and it frequently happens that some of these, if 
 not pinched, acquire so much vigor as to injure the leader 
 and produce a consequent deformity in the tree. Fig 83 
 {A) represents a case of this kind, w^hich is very common, 
 and too often neglected. The shoots, <2, <^, ought to have 
 been pinched the moment they began to exhibit a dispo- 
 sition to outgrow the leader. There are other cases still 
 worse than this, familiar to all tree growers ; for instance, 
 where a strong shoot is produced on the middle or lower 
 
PKUNING. 
 
 93 
 
 part of the stem, attracting an undue proportion of the 
 sap, thus contracting the growth of all other parts, and 
 giving the young tree a deformed character. All such 
 
 Fig. S3 (.4). 
 
 Fig. 83 (B). 
 
 F\g. 83, A, head of a young tree ; B, the leader; a, a, vigorous shoots below 
 it, that ought to have been pinched. Fig^. 83, B, a branch of the pear, twice cut 
 back with the lateral shoots pinched ; a. a, the first section ; c, c, c, the second ; 
 4, and d, d, shoots pinched close to favor the leader,, and those below them. 
 
 shoots as these should be nipped early, the moment their 
 character is apparent, and thus a year's growth nearly 
 will be saved to the tree, and its proper form and propor- 
 tions be preserved. In conducting young trees for pyra- 
 mids, the constant and careful application of j)inching is 
 
9-1: GENERAL PBINCIPLES. 
 
 iibsohitelj necessary, for in tlieni we must have the lower 
 branches always the sti-ongest and longest, and it is only 
 by oi3erating on the shoots, in their earliest stages of 
 growth, that we can fully attain this end ; for the strong- 
 est shoots do not always grow at the desired point, bnt by 
 timely attention they are perfectly within our control. 
 The various accidents and circumstances to which young 
 trees are subject, give rise, in a multitude of cases, to an 
 unequal distribution of the sap in their diiferent parts, 
 and this produces, to a greater or less extent, deformity of 
 growth. This, at once, shows the necessity for pinching, 
 to check the strong and favor the weak. 
 
 Pinching to promote Fniiffulness. — Those who have 
 never practised this, or observed its results, may have 
 seen, if experienced in tree growing, that a shoot of which 
 the point was broken, bruised, or otherwise injured, dur- 
 ing the growing season, frequently becomes a fruit branch, 
 either during the same or the following season ; and this, 
 especially if situated in the interior of the tree, or on the 
 older and lower parts of the branches. The check given 
 to the extension of the shoot concentrates the sap in the 
 j)art remaining; and, unless the check has been given 
 very early in the season, or the growth very vigorous in 
 the tree, so that the buds will break and form shoots, 
 they are certain to prepare for the production of fruit. It 
 is on this principle of checking the growth, and concen- 
 trating the sap in the pinched shoot, that pinchiug to in- 
 duce fruitfulness is performed ; and its efficiency may be 
 estimated from the fact, that trees on which it has been 
 practised, have borne fruit four or five, and perhaps seven 
 years, sooner than they would have done without it. 
 
 It is a most useful operation in the case of vigorous 
 growing and tardy bearing sorts. The best illustration, on 
 a large scale in this country, is the specimen plantation of 
 pear trees of Messrs. Ilovey & Co., of Boston. A large 
 
nuiiiberof tliese are pjmmidal in form, and on pear stocks, 
 very beautiful trees, indeed the best specimens of the kind 
 in any American nursery, and though, now in 1850, only 
 7 years old (the oldest), yet they have as a general thing 
 produced fruit, and many of them for 2 or 3 years past. 
 This result has been obtained by pinching, which has been 
 regularly, but not to the fullest extent, practised upon 
 them every season. The 7)iode of j>erfonning it^ is to pinch 
 off the end of the shoot with the finger and thumb ; if a 
 small portion of the remaining part be bruised, no matter, 
 it oifers a greater check than if a clean cut were made, 
 as in pruning to a bud ; and in the general winter or 
 spring pruning ^^'hich follows, the bruised ^^arts can 
 be cleanly separated. The thne to perform it depends 
 wholly on circumstances. If the object be to regulate 
 groAvth, then the time to do it is, when the tendency to 
 undue or ill-proportioned growth is first observable, and 
 this will be from the time the young shoots are two to 
 three inches long and uj^wards. The particular season of 
 the year or day of the month will, of course, depend upon 
 the carliness or lateness of the season, and on the soil and 
 situation as well as on the habits of growth of the species 
 or variety to be operated on. The true way is to be always 
 on the watch. If the object be to induce fruitfulness, the 
 length which the shoots should attain before being pinched, 
 depends upon the nature or mode of grovv'th and bearing 
 of the sj^ecies, and will be more definitely treated under 
 the head of "The Prmiing of Trees," hereafter, the object 
 now being merely to indicate general principles and modes 
 of operating. To illustrate this, let us suppose the lateral 
 branch of a pear tree, (fig. 83, B). This was cut. back the 
 first time to J, and below that point five shoots were pro- 
 duced, none of which w^ere needed for branches. We, 
 therefore, pinched them in June, when about three inches 
 long or thereabouts, and the result is, they are now fruit 
 
96 GENERAL PKINCIPLES. 
 
 branches. The same brancli was cut back the second 
 time to d^ d^ and on that section seven shoots were pro- 
 duced that were not needed in the form of the tree, and 
 w^ere consequently pinched, and will become fruit branches. 
 At the 2:>oints J, and c?, <r7, are small spurs, the base of shoots 
 that have been pinched close to favor the growth of the 
 leader, as well as the development of the shoots below. 
 Without pinching it would have been impossible to obtain 
 such results in this branch in the same time. 
 
 M. Dubreuil, formerly Professor of Arboriculture in the 
 Garden of Plants at Pouen, in France, sums up the general 
 principles of pruning as follows. (I may remark here, that 
 in 1849, I visited the Pouen garden, and foimd M. Du- 
 breuil's theory and practice beautifully illustrated on 
 the trees in his charge. My visit was made at the time 
 of his practical lectures, and I was able to examine the 
 whole with the most satisfactory minuteness. The trees 
 there, under all forms, and embracing all the hardy sj^e- 
 cies of fruits, were the best that I anywhere found, not 
 even excei3ting the much admired and famous pyramidal 
 pear trees of M. Cappe, at Paris. They were not only per- 
 fect in form, but as regards vigor ^-ixA fruitfulness^ in the 
 most admirable condition.) He says : 
 
 " The theory of the pruning of fruit trees rests on the follow- 
 ing six general principles : 
 
 " 1 . Tht vigor of a trec^ suljeded to 'pruning^ depends^ in a great 
 measure, on the equal distribution of sap in all its branches. 
 
 ^' In fruit trees abandoned to themselves, the sap is equally dis- 
 tributed in the different parts without any other aid than nature, 
 because the tree assumes the form most in harmony with the 
 natural tendency of the sap.* 
 
 * This is not in all cases true. Peach trees, we know, left to themselves, 
 exhibit a very striking example of the unequal distribution of the sap. The 
 ends of the branches attract nearly the whole, leaving the lateral shoots and 
 
PRUNING. 97 
 
 " But in those submitted to pruning, it is different ; the forms 
 imposed on them, such as espalier, pyramid, vase, &c., change 
 more or less the normal direction of the sap, and prevent it from 
 taking the form proper to its species. Thus nearly all the forms 
 given to trees require the development of ramifications more or 
 less numerous, and of greater or less dimensions at the base of the 
 stem. And, as the sap tends by preference towards the summit 
 of the tree, it happens that, unless great care be taken, the 
 branches at the base become feeble, and finally dry up, and the 
 form intended to be obtained disappears, to be replaced by the 
 natural form, that is a stem or a trunk with a branching head. 
 It is then indispensable, if we wish to preserve the form we im- 
 pose upon trees, to employ certain means, by the aid of which 
 the natural direction of the sap can be changed and directed 
 towards the points where we wish to obtain the most vigorous 
 growth. To do this we must arrest vegetation in the parts to 
 which the sap is carried in too great abundance, and on the con- 
 trary favor the parts that do not receive enough. To accomplish 
 this the following means must be successively employed. 
 
 " 1. Prune the branches of the most vigorous parts very short , 
 and those of the weak parts long. We know that the sap is at- 
 tracted by the leaves. The removal of a large number of wood- 
 buds from the vigorous parts, deprives these parts of the leaves 
 which these buds would have produced ; consequently the sap is 
 attracted there in less quantities, and the growth thereby dimi- 
 nished. The feeble parts being pruned long, present a great num- 
 ber of buds, which produce a large surface of leaves, and these 
 attract the sap and acquire a vigorous growth. This principle 
 holds good in all trees, under whatever form they may be con- 
 ducted. 
 
 " 2. Leave a large quantity of fruit on the strong part^ and 
 remove the ichole^ or greater part^ from the feeble. We know 
 already that the fruit has the property of attracting to it the sap 
 fiom the roots, and of employing it entirely to its own growth. 
 
 lower parts to die out. In other species, similar instances might be quoted, 
 and as a general thing, the proposition is unsound, except in a comparative 
 sense. 
 
 5 
 
98 GENEEAL PEINCIPLES. 
 
 The necessary result of this is, what we are about to point out, 
 viz., that all the sap which arrives in the strong parts, will be ab- 
 sorbed by the fruits, and the wood there, in consequence, will 
 make but little growth, while on the feeble part, deprived of 
 fruits, the sap will all be appropriated by the growing parts, and 
 they will increase in size and strength. 
 
 " 3. Bend the strong parts and keep the weak erect. The more 
 erect the branches and stem are, the greater will be the flow of 
 sap to the growing parts ; hence, the feeble parts being erect, 
 attract much more sap than the strong parts inclined, and, con- 
 sequently, make a more vigorous growth, and soon recover their 
 balance. This remedy is more especially applied to espalier 
 trees. 
 
 " 4. Remove from the vigorous parts the superjiuous shoots as 
 early in the season as possible, and from the feeble parts as late as 
 possible. The fewer the number of young shoots there are on a 
 branch, the fewer there are of leaves, and consequently the less is 
 the sap attracted there. Hence, in leaving the young shoots on 
 the feeble part, their leaves attract the sap there, and induce a 
 vigorous growth. 
 
 " 5. Pinch early the soft extremities of the shoots on the vigorous 
 parts, and as late as possible on the feeble parts, excepting always 
 any shoots which may be too vigorous for their position. By thus 
 pinching early the strong part, the flow of sap to that point is 
 checked, and naturally turns to the growing parts that have not 
 been pinched ; this remedy is applicable to trees in all forms. 
 
 " 6. Lay in the strong shoots on the trellis eurly, and leave the 
 feeble parts loose as long as possible. Laying in the strong parts 
 obstructs the circulation of the sap in them, and consequently 
 favors the weak parts that are loose. This is only applicable to 
 espaliers. 
 
 "7. In espalier trees, giving the feeble parts the benefit of the 
 light, and confining the strong parts more in the shade, restores a 
 balance, for light is the agent which enables leaves to perform 
 their functions and their action on the roots, and the parts receiv- 
 ing the greatest proportion of it acquire the most vigorous de- 
 velopment. 
 
pEUNiNG. yy 
 
 2. " The sap acts with greater force and produces more vigorous 
 growth on a branch or shoot pruned short, than on one pruned long. 
 This is easily explained. The sap acting on two buds must 
 evidently produce a greater development of wood on them, than 
 if it were divided between fifteen or twenty buds. 
 
 " It follows from this, that if we wish to obtain wood branches, 
 we prune short, for vigorous shoots produce few fruit buds. On 
 the contrary, if we wish to obtain fruit branches, we prune long, 
 because the most slender or feeble shoots are the most disposed 
 to fruit. 
 
 " Another application of this principle is to prune short for a 
 year or two, such trees or parts as have become enfeebled by 
 overbearing. (This principle deserves especial attention, as its 
 application is of great importance.) 
 
 3. '' The sap tending always to the extremities of the shoots causes 
 the terminal hud to push with greater vigor than the laterals. Ac- 
 cording to this principle, when we wish a prolongment of a stem 
 or branch, we should prune to a vigorous wood bud, and leave no 
 production that can interfere witft the action of the sap on it. 
 
 4. " The more the sap is olstructed in its circulation, the m.ore 
 likely it will he to produce fruit buds. This principle is founded 
 on a fact to which we have already had occasion to refer, viz. — 
 that the sap circulating slowly is subjected to a more complete 
 elaboration in the tissues of the tree, and becomes better adapted 
 to the formation of fruit buds. 
 
 " This principle can be applied to produce the following result: 
 When we wish to produce fruit buds on a branch, we prevent a free 
 circulation of the sap by bending the branches, or by making annu- 
 lar or circular incisions on it ; and on the contrary, when we 
 wish to change a fruit branch into a wood branch, we give it a 
 vertical position, or prune it to two or three buds, on which we 
 concentrate the action of the sap and thus induce their vigorous 
 development. 
 
 5. '^ The leaves serve to prepare the sap absorbed by therootsfor 
 the nourishment of the tree, arid aid the formation of buds on the 
 shoots. All trees, therefore, deprived of their leaves are liable to 
 perish. This principle shows how dangerous it is to remove a 
 
100 GENERAL PEmCIPLES. 
 
 large quantity of leaves from trees, under the pretext of aiding 
 the growth or ripening of fruits, for the leaves are the nourishing 
 organs, and the trees deprived of them cannot continue to grow, 
 neither can the fruit ; and the branches so stripped will have feeble, 
 ill-formed buds, which will, the following year, produce a weak 
 and sickly growth. 
 
 6. ^' Where the buds of any shoot or branch do not develope 
 before the age of two years^ they can only be forced into activity 
 by a very close pruning^ and in some cases^ as the peach, this even 
 will often fail. This last principle shows the importance of prun- 
 ing the main branches of espaliers particularly, so as to ensure 
 the development of the buds of their successive sections, and to 
 preserve well the side shoots thus produced, for without this, the 
 interior of the tree will become naked and unproductive, and 
 a remedy will be very difficult." 
 
 If these principles and practices of pmning be carefully 
 studied in connection with the habits of growth and bear- 
 ing of the different fruit trees, pruning will be compara- 
 tively an easy matter. The mode of obtaining any par- 
 ticular form or character cannot fail to be perfectly plain 
 and simple ; yet no one need hope to accomplish, in all 
 things, the precise results aimed at, for even the most 
 skilful operator is sometimes disappointed : but those w^ho 
 give constant attention to their trees, will always discover 
 a failure in tim^e to apply a remedy. 
 
 I insist upon it, because I have been taught it by most 
 abundant experience, that the most unremitting watch- 
 fulness is necessary in conducting trees in particular 
 forms. It is not, by any means, lahor that is required ; 
 but attention that the most delicate hand can perform, 
 fifteen or twenty minutes at a time, say three times a 
 week during active grow^th, will be sufficient to examine 
 every shoot on a moderate collection of garden trees ; for 
 the eye very soon becomes trained so well to the work, 
 that a glance at a tree will detect the parts that are either 
 too strong or too weak, or that in any way require atten- 
 
PRUNrXG. 101 
 
 tion. This is one of the most interesting features in the 
 management of garden trees. We are never allowed to 
 forget them. From day to day they require some atten- 
 tion, and offer some new point of interest that attracts us 
 to them, and augments our solicitude for their prosperity, 
 until it actually grows into enthusiasm. 
 
PART II. 
 
 THE NURSERY 
 
THE NURS ER Y. 
 
 CHAPTEE I. 
 
 Section 1. — Soil, Situation, etc. 
 
 It is not a part of the design of this treatise to give 
 anything like a full exj)osition of nursery operations ; for 
 this would, in itself, be a subject sufficiently extensive to 
 form a volume ; but as all fruit growers should possess at 
 least some knowledge of nm-sery management, it seems 
 quite necessary that the more important points should be 
 noticed. 
 
 1st. The Soil^ as to Dryness. — For a fruit tree nursery 
 the soil must be ])erfectly dry^ both above and below. In 
 damp, springy soils, or where the subsoil is so compact as 
 not to admit of the surface w^ater j^assing off immediately, 
 trees do not thrive, the roots are destitute of fibres, the 
 wood is watery and delicate, and where frosts are severe 
 the trees are cast out of the ground by the expansion of 
 the water with which the soil is filled. "We have kno^vn 
 of a single instance in which several thousand dollars 
 were lost by planting a pear nursery on a soil imperfectly 
 drained. The plants grew finely the first season, were 
 budded, the buds had taken, and in the autumn all looked 
 prosperous : but the autumn rains filled the soil with 
 water, the situation was low and level, and the subsoil 
 compact, so that the water could not possibly get away. 
 The consequence was, the roots decayed, the plants were 
 
 cast out of the ground, and the injury was so great and 
 
 «^ ji - - 
 
106 THE NUESERT. 
 
 SO general that the whole plantation had to be taken up. 
 This ground was then thoroughly drained, and is now as 
 good a pear soil as can be found — a stock of beautiful 
 trees standing on it at the present time. This single in- 
 stance illustrates the im]3ortance of a dry soil, as well as 
 twenty would. We frequently find that in the same row 
 of trees, if there happens to be a low, damp spot, the 
 trees in it have no fibrous roots, and are altogether inferior 
 to those on the adjacent dry ground. 
 
 2d. Depth. — As a general thing, the soil of a nursery 
 should be a foot to eighteen inches deep ; but all trees do 
 not require the same dej)th. Those (such as the pear) 
 whose roots descend more than they spread.^ require the 
 deepest soil. The best quality of nursery trees are grown 
 on common farming land, twice ploughed with the com- 
 mon and subsoil ploughs, one following the other, as de- 
 scribed in the chapter on soils. This gives depth enough 
 for all ordinary purposes. 
 
 3d. Texture. — A soil of medium texture between the 
 heavy and the light, is, on the whole, the most advan- 
 tageous, as being the best adapted to general purposes. 
 A good friable loam, with a gravelly subsoil, or a mixture 
 of sand, gravel, and clay, that will allow water to pass 
 off freely, and yet not too fast, will be found suitable for 
 almost any species ; and one great advantage of such a 
 soil is, that it admits of rotation in crops. 
 
 4th. Quality. — For the growth of young fruit trees, a soil 
 should be in such a condition as to furnish a sufficient sup- 
 ply of nutriment to ensure a vigorous and robust growth ; 
 but it may be too rich, and produce rank wood that will 
 not mature properly, and be imable to withstand the 
 change of climate or soil consequent upon transplanting. 
 "Where manures are used, they should be well decom- 
 posed ; fresh warm manures excite trees into a very rapid 
 growth, but the wood is watery and feeble. A dry soil of 
 
SOIL. 107 
 
 moderate richness produces hardy trees, their wood is firm, 
 the buds plump and close together, and the parts well pro- 
 portioned. 
 
 5. Laying out. — Where the nursery is of considerable 
 extent, the ground should be laid out and arranged in 
 square or rectangular plots of convenient size, and be 
 intersected with walks. One portion should be set apart 
 for the propagation of stocks from layers, another for cut- 
 tings, another for seeds, &c. In setting apart ground for 
 the different kinds of trees, if there be a choice, the pear 
 should have the deepest and best, the plum the most com- 
 pact or clayey, the peach, apricot, cherry, &c., the lightest 
 and dry est. 
 
 6. JExjyosure. — I^ursery ground for fruit trees should be 
 well elevated, but not fully exposed to the prevailing high 
 winds, as the young trees are apt to be broken off during 
 the first year's growth if not kept well tied up to stakes. 
 In om- section we find it very advantageous to have some 
 protection from the west winds especially, though we 
 sometimes have a south wind quite destructive in exposed 
 places to the young buds. Situations where snow is liable 
 to drift into, should be avoided, in sections where heavy 
 snow storms prevail, for sometimes vast quantities of trees 
 are broken down in corners of fences and sheltered situa- 
 tions where the snow accumulates in heavy drifts. 
 
 T. Rotation or Sicccession of Crops. — ^This is quite as 
 important in the management of the nursery as of the farm. 
 Not more than one crop of one species should be planted 
 on the same ground ; and those of the most oj)posite 
 character should follow one another. Where one species 
 is grown on the same ground for eight or ten years, it is 
 found by experience that even the most liberal manuring 
 fails to produce such fine, sound, healthy, and vigorous 
 trees as new ground without manure. Where land is 
 scarce, and it is necessary to use the same ground for the 
 
108 THE NUESERY. 
 
 same kind of trees, it should at least be allowed one season's 
 rest, and be well stipplied with such material as the trees 
 to be grown in it require in the largest quantities, or in 
 which the soil is found to be most deficient. 
 
 Section 2. — Desceiption and Peopagation of Stocks. 
 
 This branch of the subject is of snch importance, and 
 involves so many considerations, that it seems to be more 
 methodical to treat it separate from subsequent operations. 
 
 1st. Stocks for the A^jole. — ^The principal stocks in nse 
 for the apple are the common seedling^ or free stock., the 
 Doucain., and the Paradise. 
 
 Seedlings.^ or free stocks., are ordinarily produced from 
 seeds taken promiscuously from the cider mill in the 
 autumn. 
 
 Preparing the Seed. — ^The cakes of pressed pomace 
 are broken up, and the coarser materials, straw, &c., sepa- 
 rated from it by means of a coarse sieve, the sifted pomace 
 is then put into large tubs, and subjected to repeated 
 washings until clean. The clean plump seed falls to the 
 bottom, and the pomace and light poor seed are carried 
 off in the washings. When fruits have been selected for 
 the seeds, they are placed in heaps until fermentation and 
 decay have reduced the flesh to a soft pulpy state, when 
 they are washed in tubs, in the same manner as pomace. 
 
 Saving the Seed. — When the seed is washed out as 
 above, it must be spread thinly on boards, and repeatedly 
 turned over until perfectly dry, when it is put away in 
 boxes, mixed with sand, containing a slight degree of 
 moisture. The boxes should be w^ell secured against ver- 
 min, and be kept in a dry, cool place, till the time of 
 planting. 
 
 Season and Mode of Planting. — If the ground be in 
 readiness, and perfectly dry and friable, the best time is 
 
PKOPAGATION OF STOCKS. 109 
 
 the fall, as soon as the seeds are cleaned. At this season 
 the pomace, seeds and all, as it comes from the press, maj 
 be planted without any washing. It should be broken 
 up fine, so that it may be evenly distributed in the seed 
 bed. The difficulty of doing this, is a serious objection to 
 this mode. By taking some pains in the sowing, we raise 
 as good stocks in this as in any other way; the decayed 
 pulp contributes considerable nutriment to the young 
 plants in their earliest stage of growth. 
 
 When deferred till spring, it should be done at the 
 earliest moment that the condition of the ground will ad- 
 mit. When the ground is ready, a line is stretched along 
 one side of the plot, and a drill opened with a hoe about 
 eight or ten inches wide and three deep ; the seeds are 
 then dropped, and the fine earth drawn over them with 
 the hoe as regular as possible, covering them about three 
 inches deep. If some leaf mould from the woods or old 
 decomposed manure in a fit state for spreading could be 
 had, and a covering of an inch deep of it sjDread on the 
 top of the drills, it would prevent the surface from baking 
 or cracking, and allow the plants to come up with greater 
 strength and regularity. Whatever depth of such a cover- 
 ing be used, should be deducted from the covering of 
 common earth. 
 
 Distance to Plant. — ^When large quantities are raised, 
 the drills should be three feet apart to admit of the culti- 
 vator passing between them ; for the ground should be 
 kept j)erfectly clean and mellow around seedlings the 
 whole season. 
 
 Afiei' Management. — It is of great importance that they 
 be not in any way stunted, either in first coming through 
 the soil by a hard sm-face, or afterwards by weeds and 
 lack of culture ; seedlings stunted during the early stages 
 of their growth never make vigorous, healthy stocks, and 
 indeed should never be planted. When they appear 
 
110 THE NUKSERT. 
 
 above tlie surface and are too close together, tliey should 
 as soon as possible be thinned out to regular distances ; 
 for when grown up in dense masses, they are generally 
 feeble and w^orthless. One hundred good vigorous stocks 
 are worth live hundred poor ones. It is very common to 
 see seedlings of one year larger than those of two years, 
 under different management, and in such a case the year- 
 lings are worth twice as much as the others. A very good 
 plan is to thin out all the weakest j^lants when about four 
 or five inches high, leaving those only of vigorous habit 
 and large foliage. 
 
 The Doucain is a distinct species of apple ; the tree is 
 of medium size, bears small sweet fruit, and reproduces 
 itself from seed. It is used for stocks for apple trees of 
 medium ^ylq^ jpyramids^ or dtoarf standards for gardens. 
 It is propagated almost exclusively from layers ; see fig. 
 63. The plants to be propagated from are planted in a 
 rich deep friable soil, and cut back to within four to six 
 inches of the collar ; the buds, or the part below the cut, 
 will, during the next season, produce strong shoots ; the 
 following spring the earth is drawn up around each plant 
 in the form of a mound, so that the whole of the stem and 
 the base of all the shoots will be covered at least three 
 inches deep ; during that season all the shoots will pro- 
 duce roots, and should be separated from the mother plant 
 or stool, as such plants are termed, in the fall. If left on 
 till sj^ring the frost w^ould be likely to injure them. The 
 stools are then dressed, the soil around them is spaded up 
 and enriched with well decayed manure, and the follow- 
 ing season another crop of shoots is produced, much 
 more numerous than the first, to be treated in the same 
 way. Every year these stool plants increase in size and 
 in the quantity of their productions, if well treated. 
 Another course, but not so good, is frequently pursued 
 w^hen stocks are scarce. The shoots are layered, by bend- 
 
PROPAGATION OF STOCKS. Ill 
 
 ing down as described in layering, the first season of their 
 growth in July, and may be sufficiently rooted in the fall 
 to be transferred to nursery rows in the spring following ; 
 a year is thus saved, but the stocks are, of course, much 
 inferior. If earthed up in midsummer, they will be par- 
 tially rooted in the autumn too, but not so w^ell as if bent 
 down, for the bending has a tendency to stop the sap at 
 the point fastened to the ground, and hastens the forma- 
 tion of roots. 
 
 Tlie Paradise. — This also is a distinct species of apple. 
 The tree is of very small size, never attaining over three 
 to four feet in height. It is used for stocks for dwarf 
 trees or bushes that occupy but a small space in the gar- 
 den. It is propagated in precisely the same manner as 
 that described for the Doucain. 
 
 2d. Stocks for the Pear. — ^The pear seedling and the 
 quince are the only two stocks on w^hich the pear can be 
 advantageously w' orked to any considerable extent. The 
 mountain ash and the thorn are occasionally used for 
 special purposes only. 
 
 Pear Seedlings. — ^The seeds are obtained by collecting 
 such fruits as can be had, containing perfect seeds. Great 
 care should be taken to gather the fruits of hardy, 
 healthy, vigorous trees only, and the seeds should be full 
 and plump. The seeds are separated and w^ashed, as de- 
 scribed for apples. They are also saved and planted in a 
 manner similar in all respects ; but in this country it is a 
 much more difficult matter to succeed with pear seedlings 
 than w^ith the apple. This difficulty is owing chiefly to a 
 species of rust or blight that attacks the leaves of the 
 young plants, very often before they have completed their 
 first season's grow^th. To obviate the difficulty which this 
 malady j^resents, a vigorous growth should be obtained 
 early in the season. IS'ew soil, or that in which trees 
 have not been grown in l^efore, should be selected. The 
 
112 THE NrESERY, 
 
 autumn before planting, it should be trenclied or subsoil 
 ploughed to the depth of two feet, for the pear has long 
 tap roots, and liberally enriched with a compost of stable 
 manure, leaf mould or muck^ and wood ashes^ in about 
 equal parts : four inches deep of this spread over the sur- 
 face before ploughing, will be sufficient for any ordinary 
 soil. Lime should also be given liberally, unless the soil 
 be naturally and strongly calcareous. A soil prepared 
 thus in the fall, will require another ploughing or spading 
 in the spring, to mix all the materials properly with the 
 soil, and fit it for the seeds. Where large quantities are 
 grown, the drills may be the same distance apart as that 
 recommended for apples, three feet ; but if only a few, 
 twelve to eighteen inches will be sufficient, as the clean- 
 ing can be done with the hoe. The seeds should be scat- 
 tered thinly, that every plant may have sufficient space 
 without any thinning. From time to time we find re- 
 gular recipes given for raising pear seedlings, with the 
 same precision that pudding recipes are given in the 
 cook books. Bo7ie dust^ 'blacksmiths' cinders^ muck^ lime^ 
 wood ashes^ and half a dozen other things, are recom- 
 mended to be compounded in pecks and half pecks, all 
 with a view to remedy the rust or leaf blight that no 
 man can say originates in any defect of the soil. The 
 cause may be in the atmosphere, or it may be an insect, 
 or it may be something else, for aught anybody yet 
 knows to the contrary. The end to aim at, as before re- 
 marked, is to get good growth, say eighteen to twenty 
 inches in height, and stout in proportion, before the first 
 of August. This can be done in any deeply-trenched, 
 fresh soil, well prepared and manured as described above. 
 During the past season, a lot of very fine seedling pears 
 were raised in fresh, new soil, in Ontario county ; their 
 foliage was quite fresh when the frosts came, and they 
 had received no special manuring either. Pear seedlings 
 
PEOPAGATION OF STOCKS. 113 
 
 should always be taken up in the fall, after the first 
 season's growth, the largest selected for transplanting 
 into the nursery, and the smaller to be put into beds, to 
 remain another season. 
 
 Quince Stocks are proj)agated with considerable success 
 by cuttings. These should be strong shoots, six inches to 
 a foot long, taken off close to the old wood, and, if pos- 
 sible, with a small portion attached, prepared as directed 
 in article on cuttings, early in the winter, and kept in pits 
 two or three feet below the surface of the soil, in a dry 
 place, till planting time in spring. They should be 
 planted in a lig/it, fiiahle, deep soil^ in rows eighteen 
 inches to two feet apart, four to six inches apart in the 
 row, and so deep that but a couple of buds remain above 
 the sm-face. The ground should be kept clean and mel- 
 low amongst them all summer, and if the cuttings were 
 stout and long, they will in the autumn be fit for taking 
 up and preparing for planting into nursery rows the fol- 
 lowing spring. The best and surest method of propagat- 
 ing the quince stock, however, is by layers^ as the best 
 variety for that purpose does not strike so freely from cut- 
 tings as the common sorts. The manner of layering is 
 that recommended for the Doucain and paradise^ by 
 earthing up. The stool j^lants should be set out in a fine, 
 rich, deep border of warm, friable soil, and be about six 
 feet apart, when designed to be permanent. As each stool, 
 by the system recommended, can only yield a crop of 
 plants every two years, there should be two sets, so that 
 an annual supply may be obtained. 
 
 By the ordinary system of bending down the shoots, 
 and slitting, or even without the slitting, a croj) may be 
 obtained every year, that is, the shoots of the current sea- 
 son's growth may be layered in July or August, but no 
 such stocks can be obtained as by the earthing up and 
 
114 THE NtlESERT. 
 
 taking a crop every two years. Tliis is tlie system recom- 
 mended to those who want^^^^^ rate quince stocks. 
 
 The very general lack of information in this country on 
 the subject of quince stocks for pears has given rise to a 
 great many misapprehensions and erroneous statements in 
 regard to them, both by horticultural writers and others. 
 At first it was said that the stock used by the French and 
 imported by nurserymen here were the Portugal. Again, 
 it was discovered they were nothing more than the com- 
 mon apple quince ; consequently a multitude of the apple 
 quinces have been worked, and sent out as " dwarf pears. "^"^ 
 The slow and feeble growth of this variety unfits it entirely 
 for a stock for the pear, and only a very few varieties will 
 form a union with it that will last over three or four years. 
 Such trees cannot fail to give general dissatisfaction, and 
 among people who know no better, create a prejudice 
 against quince stocks in geceral. Indeed this is the cause 
 why so much has been said about the pears on quince 
 being so short-lived. 
 
 The truth is, that the varieties used in France are nei- 
 ther the Apple nor the Portugal Quince, but vigorous 
 hybrids that have been originated there, and found to 
 answer this purpose particularly well. The great requisite 
 of a quince stock for the pear is 2ifree^vigorous and rapid 
 growth. A variety originated at the town of Angers in 
 France, and extensively used, propagated and sold there, 
 as the Angers Quince^ is probably the best yet known for 
 a pear stock generally. It is a very rapid, vigorous grower, 
 making strong shoots three feet long in one season. It has 
 large foliage resembling the Portugal. In some parts of 
 France, as in [N^ormandy*, it is known as the hroad-leaved. 
 There is another variety with smaller leaves, but of free, 
 vigorous growth too, almost exclusively cultivated in some 
 districts. Several extensive nurserymen at Orleans, Paris, 
 and elsewhere, consider it superior to the broad-leaved, 
 
PEOPAGATION OF STOCKS. 115 
 
 and es])ecially for very vigorous growing sorts. It is 
 known as the small-leaved. 
 
 We have tried both extensively, and find but very little 
 difference thus far in the results obtained. We are now 
 engaged in experiments testing the fitness of another 
 variety qnite distinct in its character, habits of growth, 
 &c., from all the others. It is remarkably erect, with a 
 bushy, branching head, and roots composed almost entirely 
 of fine fibres. Every cutting grows when other sorts are a 
 complete failure ; and a cutting made of a stout shoot set 
 in the ground in April may be budded in September. The 
 largest plants we have are but three years old ; and judg- 
 ing from these, it will not attain so large a size as the 
 Angers, but the pear seems to unite well with it, and we 
 believe it will make an excellent stock, for free growing 
 kinds particularly. It is yet too soon, however, to decide 
 upon its merits in any respect, except that of being easily 
 propagated. 
 
 The Mountain Ash, it is said, makes a good stock for 
 certain varieties in very light, sandy soils, when neithc/ 
 the pear nor quince succeeds well. It is propagated from 
 seed, and requires to be two years old before being worked. 
 
 The Thorn. — Seedlings of our vigorous native thorns 
 make good stocks when about three years old ; the seeds 
 require to be in the rot heap one year before sowing. The 
 only cases in which it can be recommended, are those in 
 which a soil may be so wet and cold as to be unfit for the 
 pear or quince ; but it is better to improve such soils by 
 draining, subsoil ploughing, and by the addition of suitable 
 composts, for even the thorn will fail in giving satisfac- 
 tion on a stiff, cold soil. 
 
 3d. Stocks for the Cherry. — ^The principal stocks used 
 for the cherry are the Tnazzard for standard orchard trees, 
 and the mahaleb for garden pyi-amids and dwarfs. 
 
 Mazzard Seedlings. — ^Tlie mazzard cherry is a lofty, 
 
116 THE NUESEEY. 
 
 rapid-growing, pyramidal-headed tree. Its frnit is small, 
 dark brown, or black, with a sprightly flavor and slight 
 bitterness. It is the original type of all the heart varie- 
 ties. 
 
 Preparing and saving the Seeds. — ^The fruit is allowed 
 to remain on the tree nntil thoroughly ripe. It is then 
 shaken or picked off, and put into tubs, where the pulp is 
 washed off until the stones are perfectly clean. They 
 are then spread out on boards, and turned over occasion- 
 ally until dry, when they are put away in boxes, mixed 
 with sand very slightly moist. A layer of sand is spread 
 in the bottom of the box, then a thin layer of the stones, 
 next a layer of sand, and so on till the box is full. The 
 boxes are secured against vermin, and put away in a cool, 
 dry place, until needed for planting. If not planted in the 
 fall, they may be wintered in a cellar, or out of doors, 
 protected from rain by boards or other covering. 
 
 When to Plant. — If circumstances w^ere favorable, all 
 seeds would be better planted in the fall, or immediately 
 after their maturity, l^ature, in her course, indicates this 
 to be a general law ; but in cultivation this must depend 
 on circumstances. The ground may not be in readiness. 
 It may be so wet and heavy, that seeds would be so satu- 
 rated with moisture during the winter as to lose their 
 vitality; or the ground might become so beaten down 
 and compact with fall, winter, and early spring rains, as 
 to make it almost impossible for the young plants to make 
 their way through it. All these things are to be con- 
 sidered in deciding the proper time to sow seeds. If the 
 soil be very light and porous, cherry seeds may be sown 
 as soon as gathered; if the contrary, it should be 
 deferred till spring : but they germinate early and at a 
 iow temperature, so that it is necessary to keep them 
 pretty dry and cool, and get them into the ground at the 
 earliest practicable moment. We find it quite difficult to 
 
PROPAGATION OF STOCKS. 117 
 
 keej) them properly, and yet prevent them from germinat- 
 ing before the ground is dry enough to receive them. 
 
 How to Plant. — For cherry seeds the ground should be 
 ligJit.^ in a good fertile state, but not strongly manured. 
 The seeds are sown in drills as recommended for apple 
 and pear seeds, and so thin as to give each plant space to 
 grow in without being crowded by others. In this way, 
 and with clean summer culture, the stocks will all be 
 large enough at the end of the first season's growth, to be 
 taken up and prej)ared for planting in nursery rows the 
 following spring. 
 
 The Mahaleb (Cerasus mahaleb) is a small tree w^ith 
 £>'lossy, deejD green foliage. The fruit is black, about the 
 size of a marrow-fat pea, and quite bitter. It blossoms and 
 bears fruit when about three years old. It is considerably 
 cultivated in many parts of Europe, as an ornamental 
 lawn tree. There are very few bearing trees in this 
 country yet ; consequently nearly all the stocks used are 
 imported, or grown from imported seeds. 
 
 The seeds are prepared, saved, sown, and managed in 
 all respects similar to the mazzards, and are fit for trans- 
 ferring to the nursery rows at the end of the first season's 
 growth. 
 
 The common red -pie cherry and the small morello make 
 very good stocks for dwarf trees of the duke and morello 
 classes ; but the hearts and Bigarreaus do not take on 
 them. These are raised from seed in the same way as the 
 mazzards and mahalebs. It may be added, however, as a 
 Vv-arning, that buds are more liable to fail on them than 
 on the mahaleb. 
 
 4th. Stocks for the Peach. — As a general thing the 
 peach is worked on its own stocks in this country. The 
 stones should be placed in a state of stratification during 
 the winter, placed in boxes with alternate layers of sand 
 or light earth, and be kept in a situation exposed to the 
 
lis • THE NtJESEEY. 
 
 frost; imless this is done they will not germinate the fol- 
 lowing spring ; they require more moisture and exposure 
 to open their hard shells, and induce germination, than any 
 other fruit seeds. They should be examined a w^eek or 
 two before planting time, and if they exhibit no signs of ve- 
 getation more moisture should be given them ; if they have 
 been kept dry for a month or two before being stratified, 
 they may require to be cracked. This is done by placing 
 the edge of the stone on a wooden block and striking with 
 a mallet; when cracked they may be mixed with moist 
 earth and germinated in a warm place. The growth of 
 every one so germinated can be depended on, and the 
 row^s will be regular. As the seeds are planted where 
 the trees remain until transferred to the garden or orchard, 
 it is a very good plan to nip off the point of the young root 
 protruded from the seed ; this makes it ramify, so that 
 when taken up the trees have fine branched and fibrous 
 roots instead of long tap roots, as is very generally the 
 case. 
 
 Planting. — 'The seeds should be put into the ground as 
 soon in the spring as it is in a fit state to be worked. A 
 line is stretched, and holes made with a dibble to receive 
 the seed ; it should be put in with the root downwards, 
 and be covered not over one fourth of an inch deep. 
 
 Plum Stocks are used for the peach in soils of a stiff, 
 adhesive character, in which the peach does not succeed. 
 In England the peach is worked almost exclusively on the 
 plum, as it suits their moist climate and soil better. In 
 France the hard shell almond is used almost exclusively 
 on dry^ and the plum on damp soils. Almond stocks are 
 raised in the same way as the peach. 
 
 Dwarf Peach Trees are produced by working on the 
 same stocks recommended for dwarfing the plum. Some 
 time ago a French journal gave a very interesting account 
 of experiments made in dwarfing the peach and plum, by 
 
PROPAGATION OF STOCKS. 119 
 
 a Dr. Bretonneau of Tours, France. He had succeeded 
 in producing very pretty dwarf plums and peach trees on 
 a dwarf plum indigenous to this country {Prunus ;pum.ila) 
 He exhibited beautiful prolific dwarf trees of the green 
 gage plum on the sloe, and was making farther experi- 
 ments with the dwarf almond as a stock for peaches. 
 These subjects are all worthy of attention; we have many 
 experiments of this kind under way, but it is yet too soon 
 to communicate the results. The art of growing a large 
 collection of fruits on a small spot of ground is of great 
 importance to curious and tasteful people living in towns 
 and villages. 
 
 Stocks for the Apricot and Nectarine. — ^Every thing 
 that has been said of peach stocks, applies with equal 
 force and propriety to these two trees. 
 
 5. Stocks for the Plum. — It is not a little difficult in 
 this country to get good plum stocks. If seeds be taken 
 promiscuously from any variety that is to be had, as is 
 done with most other trees, the probability is, that of the 
 seedlings not one in 500 will be suitable for a stock. I 
 have seen bushels of seeds planted that were said to have 
 been collected from strong growing trees, but out of the 
 tens of thousands of seedlings produced from them, not 
 100 were ever worked, or fit to be. It is not only neces- 
 saiy to obtain seeds from vigorous growing trees, but from 
 a species or variety that reproduces itself from seed. This 
 is the point. 
 
 The Horse Plmn^ an oval, purple, free-stone sort, with 
 vigorous downy shoots, reproduces itself from seed, and 
 makes good stocks. On a suitable, well-prepared soil, its 
 seedlings often attain two feet or more in height in one 
 season, and are then fit for the nursery rows. They require 
 a rich, substantial soil, prepared as recommended for pear 
 seeds. Other vigorous sorts have been recommended in 
 various parts of the country, but on trial they have been 
 
120 THE NUJJSEEY. 
 
 found quite inferior to the horse plum, and as a general 
 thing worthless. 
 
 The Canada or Wild Phcm^ which abounds in Ohio, 
 Michigan, and other western States, are distinct species, 
 and reproduce themselves from seed. The seedlings of 
 some grow extremely rapid, making fine stocks in one 
 year on any good soil. They continue in a thrifty, growing 
 state until late in the autumn ; but they should not be 
 worked above the ground in the usual way, as their growth 
 does not keep pace with the species to which most of our 
 cultivated sorts belong. The best way to manage them is 
 to take the yearling seedlings, whip-graft them on the 
 collar, and set them out at once in the nursery rows ; they 
 will make good trees for planting out in three years. 
 The stock is all below the surface of the ground, and in 
 time the graft sends out roots and becomes in a great mea- 
 sure independent of the stock. Where the seedlings are 
 not large enough for grafting the first season, they may be 
 set out in the nursery and allowed to grow one season, and 
 then the earth can be removed from the collar until the 
 graft be inserted, and then drawn up. To procure strong 
 stocks for standard trees of weak growing sorts, like the 
 Green Gage^ such thi-ifty varieties as the Lnjyerial Gage 
 and Smithes Orleans may be grafted on this native species, 
 and in two or three years they will make stocks strong 
 enough for any purpose. The French use several natural 
 species that are produced from seed — the St. Jidien^ 
 large and small (Brussels of the English), and the Damas 
 noir^ large and small. Tlie first is generally used for stocks 
 for apricots and peaches as well as plums. We find none 
 of these superior in vigor to the horse plum, but they are 
 worked more successfully. In England, the Brussels^ 
 Bronvpton^ and Muscle stocks are used, propagated from 
 both seeds and layers. For small sized garden trees^ 
 either dwarf standards or pyramids, the cherry plum 
 
PROPAGATION OF STOCKS. 121 
 
 makes a very good stock. It is probably the same as used 
 by the French under the names of " Cericette" and " Myro- 
 balan." Several of our authors and even some English 
 writers say that the Mirahelle is the stock used for dwarf- 
 ing \\\Q jplum^])^^''^^^ ^'^^ apricot^ but it seems probable that 
 they are mistaken. In France the cericette or cherry 
 })lum is used, and stocks sent us from England as Mira- 
 belle, are but the cherry. 
 
 How the mistake could be made is difficult to say, for 
 the two trees are as different in habit, foliage, wood and 
 fruit, as they can be. The cherry plum is a very low tree 
 with bushy, erect branches, very straight, slender, willow- 
 like, reddish shoots, exceedingly small leaves and buds, 
 and smooth bark. The Mirahelle is also a low tree, but 
 much more spreading than the other ; the shoots are 
 stouter, of a gray color and downy, with rather prominent 
 buds for so small shoots. It ripens in September, and the 
 cherry a month sooner. 
 
 The cherry plum is a natural species, and can there- 
 fore be produced true from seed. It maintains a vigorous 
 growth all summer, and may be w^orked in July, August, 
 or September. It may also be propagated from layers. 
 
 The Sloe is also used to some extent where very small 
 trees are wanted, and we have no doubt some native spe- 
 cies, as for instance the Beach and Chicasaiv plums, small 
 trees, will make good dwarf stocks. I am inclined to 
 think, however, that very nice garden trees maybe raised 
 on the smaller species of the Canada Plum. The first 
 year's growth and even the second are quite vigorous on 
 them, but after that the vigor diminishes, and the trees 
 become quite prolific. This and the cherry plum will 
 probably become our princi]3al stocks for dwarfing. 
 
 Plums for seeds should ripen well on the tree ; they are 
 then gathered, the pulp washed off, and the seeds dried 
 and put away in boxes of sand in alternate layers, af* 
 
 
122 THE NUKSEEY 
 
 recommended for cherries. They may be saved in fall or 
 spring as cii'cumstances already mentioned will admit. 
 
 ISTearly all j^lnms nsed for stocks may be propagated by 
 layers. Mother plants or stools are planted out and cut 
 back as recommended for paradise, &c. ; the shoots of the 
 previous season's growth are j)egged down in the spring 
 flat, and two inches of earth drawn over them. Every 
 bud on these layers will produce a shoot that, generally, 
 will be well enough rooted in the fall to be separated from 
 the stool and planted out into nursery rows the following 
 spring. These layered shoots are cut off close to the old 
 plant, and the upright shoots produced during the previ- 
 ous season may be again pegged clown. 
 
 The stools or mother plants managed in this way require 
 the best treatment to maintain their vigor, that a supply 
 of strong shoots may be produced every season fit to lay 
 down in the spring. Weak, slender shoots, unfit to layer, 
 should be cut out early in the season to aid the growth of 
 those intended for use. This usually goes by the name of 
 Chinese Layering. 
 
 Section 3. — ^Tkansplanting Stocks. 
 
 This comprehends three separate operations, talcing wp, 
 dressing or pruning, and replanting; but before touching 
 on the detail of these operations, it may be w^ell to con- 
 sider 
 
 1st. The age at which Stocks should he transplafited. — 
 On this point there seems to be a diversity of opinion, not 
 only among book writers but practical cultivators. The 
 very general opinion, and one that is most acted upon, is, 
 that they should remain where they have been propagated 
 until they are large enough to be worked ; a great many 
 plans are therefore suggested for wintering seedlings, and 
 especially the pear. The experience of the best culti- 
 
TKANSPLANTING STOCKS. 123 
 
 vators every where is that seedling stocks especially, of 
 all sorts, should be transplanted when one year old. It 
 may be urged against this, that some seedlings are so 
 small when one year old, as not to be worth transplanting; 
 so feeble, that more care and culture would be required 
 before they could be worked than they are worth. In re- 
 ply, it can only be said that such feeble ^productions are 
 only fit to be tlircrn^n cudoa/^ because the seeds must have 
 been defective, or the soil and culture bad; and stocks 
 raised from poor seeds, or stunted by bad soil and culture, 
 will never make sound, healthy, vigorous, or long lived 
 trees. 
 
 When seedlings remain longer than one year in the seed 
 bed, they grow up slender and weak ; one more vigorous 
 than its neighbors will ruin all around it ; then the roots 
 do not ramify, but continue to lengthen without forming 
 laterals or fibres, and when removed and reduced to the 
 necessary dimensions they receive a severe check ; but at 
 one year the check is very light, they at once form lateral 
 roots, and instead of being drawn up tall and slender, they 
 become stout and well proportioned. The best pear grow- 
 ers in Europe, and even in this country, would scarcely 
 take as a gift two year seedling pears from the seed bed, 
 unless in case of absolute necessity. 
 
 The proper plan is to take up all seedling stochs^ and all 
 layers^ suflficiently rooted to bear separation from the stool, 
 and all cuttings that stand close, at one year old^^ and sort 
 and arrange in separate classes, in this way : in one class 
 put the strongest, those fit for immediate use, either to be 
 grafted on the root, or budded the summer following ; in 
 another class, put such as may require to stand one year 
 in the nursery rows to be fit for working ; and in the third 
 class, such as are too weak to be put in the nursery rows, 
 
 * The sloe (Prunus spinosa) , or any such very slow growing thing 
 excepted. 
 
124 THE NURSERY. 
 
 but will require to be " bedded out," that is, set closely 
 in beds by themselves, where they can remain for one or 
 two years, until they are large and strong enough for root 
 grafting, or for the nursery rows. Unless in the case of 
 stocks scarce and difficult to procure, this third class had 
 better be thrown away at once, as it will cost as much to 
 nurse them as to raise fine stocks from the seed. 
 
 2d. Time to take i/^.— There is but one proper time to 
 take up all seedlings and rooted layers for stocks, and that 
 is the fall, and this for several reasons. The first is, they 
 are all liable to injury by the frosts of winter ; seedlings 
 have no side roots to hold them in the ground, and layers 
 are near the surface, so that the freezing and thawing 
 draws them up ; the roots are thus exposed and seriously 
 injured. The second is, they can be dressed during the 
 winter in the cellar, and be ready for planting in spring. 
 When taken up they can be laid closely in by the roots 
 in the soil in a dry place, and covered over so as to 
 exclude frost. When out-door work is over, they can be 
 uncovered, taken into the cellar and dressed, and laid in 
 again by the roots carefully in the same place, which 
 should be protected from frost, of course, in the mean 
 time. The third reason is, that when seedlings are taken 
 up in the fall, the ground can be prepared for another 
 crop ; and this is of considerable importance. In the 
 case of layers, the stools or mother plants can be manured, 
 dressed, and put in order for another season's growth ; 
 and this, also, is important. Such are some of the advan- 
 tages, or, in fact, the necessities of taking up stocks in the 
 fall. 
 
 3d. How to take %ip. — Seedlings are very easily taken 
 up, without in the least mutilating the roots, in two 
 w^ays. If one person do the work, he should begin at 
 one end of the row, and with a common spade, or, which 
 is better, one with three strong prongs, a foot long and 
 
TRANSrLAXTIXG STOCKS. 125 
 
 an inch and a half wide ; dig nnder the plants without 
 cutting the roots, and as fast as they are loosened below, 
 pull them out, and in this way proceed. Another and 
 quicker way is, for two men to loosen the plants, each on 
 opposite sides of the row, inserting a forked S2:)ade as 
 deep as the roots go, while another follows, and pulls out 
 the plants. When the ground is quite soft, this way 
 answers very well ; but if dry or hard, the first is better. 
 
 Layers require more care and caution. A trench must 
 be opened all around the layered branches deep enough 
 to go quite below the roots, and in an oblique manner, so 
 as to undermine them. Where the branches are pegged 
 down, the pegs must be taken out, and the layer is then 
 separated between the rooted part and the stool, and 
 gently taken from the earth. Especial care must be taken 
 not to split those that have been layered by incision ; 
 their removal must be done slowly and cautiously. 
 
 Mound Layers are easier separated ; the earth is simply 
 removed from the base of the rooted branches, and they 
 are then separated within an inch or so of the stem. 
 
 Layered Branches or Cldnese Layers. — ^When the young 
 rooted plants are produced from the eyes of a buried 
 shoot or branch, the pegs are removed, the whole branch 
 dug under, completely loosened and separated from the 
 stool ; the young plants are then taken off one by one 
 close to their base. 
 
 4th. Pruning or Dressing Stocks. — ^The objects in view 
 always in performing this operation are, to remove in- 
 jured or broken roots, to reduce the tap root that it may 
 produce laterals, to reduce the stems to a proper 23roj)or- 
 tion with the roots, and put them in a condition that will 
 ensure a vigorous growth. 
 
 Seedlings taken from the seed bed, have always a long 
 tap root, with few or no laterals ; and as trees with such 
 roots are unfit for safe transplantation, it is necessary to 
 
126 
 
 THE NUESEEY. 
 
 take measures to change their character. We, therefore, 
 remove the small tapering portion of tlie root, as at fie;;. 
 84, A ; and this 
 sj^reading roots 
 
 ensures 
 near the 
 
 the production of lateral or 
 sm-face of the ground. The 
 pear roots espe- 
 cially are inclined 
 more to descend in 
 a straight line than 
 to spread ; and un- 
 less they are well 
 cut back when 
 young, they are 
 always difficult to 
 trans j)lant safely 
 afterwards. Eoots 
 that descend like 
 the prongs of a 
 fork, are usually 
 destitute of fibres ; 
 wdiilst those that 
 spread out hori- 
 zontally, or near 
 the surface, are 
 well furnished with 
 fibres, that not 
 only make trees 
 easily transplant- 
 ed, but inclined to 
 early fruitfulness. 
 This operation on 
 the roots, it is ob- 
 vious, destroys the natural balance or proportion that ex- 
 isted between them and the tops. Hence the necessity 
 for shortening the stem in a corresponding manner. But 
 even if the roots were not shortened, the stems should be, 
 
 Fig 
 
 one year's growth, as it 
 The line at ^, shows the 
 That at B, the shortening 
 
 Fig. 84, a seedling stock 
 comes from the seed hed. 
 shortening of the tap mot. 
 of the stem before replanting. Fig. 85, a quince cutting ; 
 the cross lines on the stem and roots indicate the prun- 
 ing before replanting. 
 
rKAXSPLANTING STOCKS. 127 
 
 in order to obtain a vigorous growth. The very removal 
 of the plant lessens the power of the roots to absorb and 
 convey nntrinient ; and on this account, if no other, the 
 stem should be reduced by way of regulating the supply 
 and demand. We sometimes see young stocks planted 
 out without any shortening of the stem ; and the result 
 is, they scarcely make any growth the fii-st season — the 
 roots are barely able to absorb enough to keep them alive. 
 If one half the stem had been cut away, the remaining 
 buds would have received such a supply of food as would 
 have produced a vigorous growth. It is a pretty good 
 rule, therefore, to reduce the stems of seedlings 07ie third 
 to cyiie lialf^ as at B C^ iig. 84 ; but there are exceptions 
 to this. For instance, a stock with a very large and 
 strong root, and a short, stout, close-jointed stem, well 
 matured and furnished with plump, prominent buds, 
 requires very little, if any shortening of the stem ; and 
 again, others are just the reverse, tall, slender, and 
 feeble, having been suffocated in the seed bed. Such as 
 these require to be shortened more than lialf^ perhaps 
 two tliirds. 
 
 Layers or Cidtings (fig. 85) are in a diiferent situation 
 from seedlings, and require, therefore, diiferent treatment. 
 They have no tap roots, but masses of fibres ; and these 
 fibres, if they are preserved fresh and sound till rej)lanted, 
 need no shortening ; but if destroyed by exposure, they 
 should be cut ofi*, to make way for new ones. The short- 
 ening of the stems depends entirely on the size and con- 
 dition of the roots. If well rooted, and the roots be in 
 good condition, they may be left a foot long ; if j^oorly 
 rooted they should be cut back to six or eight inches. 
 This applies equally to the layers of the qidnce^ jjaradise^ 
 Doucain^ pluins^ etc. 
 
 5th. Planting stocJcs in the nursery roics v^here they 
 are to be hudded. — ^The first consideration w^hich this 
 
12S THE NUESEEY. 
 
 operation suggests, is the condition of the soil. Under 
 the head of soils, sufficient has been said respecting the 
 modes of deepening^ drainiTig^ and enricliing ; and it is 
 only necessary to say here, that where stocks are planted, 
 the soil should be at once deej?^ dry^ and rich ; for no 
 such thino; as sound vio-orous fruit trees can be raised on 
 a poor, shallow, or wet soil. The various means of im- 
 provement have been already pointed out and explained. 
 It may, however, be well to remark that ground may be 
 too rich^ and induce a rank, watery growth, that would 
 either result in death at the final transplanting into the 
 garden or orchard, or in a very feeble and sickly growth 
 after it. We see frequent illustrations of this in the case 
 of trees raised in old, w^om out nurseries, where rapid 
 growth has been forced by powerfully-stimulating ma- 
 nures. These rank, pithy, soft productions, are very 
 attractive to the eye ; but they sufier so much by removal, 
 no matter how well treated, that they seldom fail to dis- 
 appoint the planter. This thing should, therefore, be 
 guarded against. Manures used should be well decom- 
 posed, and incorporated w^th the soil, if possible the 
 autumn before planting. A tree is not like a cabbage or 
 a lettuce. The tenderness and succulency of these con- 
 stitute their great merit ; but the wood of a tree must be 
 fii'm^ short-jointed^ and mature.^ and these requisites are 
 always attained by a moderate and natural, not a forced 
 growth. 
 
 Planting each species in the soil best adapted to it. — 
 Where there are diiferent characters of soils in a nursery, 
 to be planted with a general assortment of stocks, it is im- 
 portant to give to each that which is best adapted to its 
 nature ; thus the pear, apple, and plum should have the 
 richer, deeper, and more compact, or that with most clay. 
 Tlie plum in particular succeeds well on a pretty stiff clay. 
 The cherry and peach should have the lightest and warmest. 
 
TRAXSPLANTING STOCKS. 129 
 
 Tlie quince^ the paradise^ and Dmtcain^ do not require 
 such a deej) soil as the pear and the common apple seed- 
 lings, because their roots are fibrous and always remain 
 near the surface ; but it must not be infeiTed from this 
 that a sliallmo soil suits these best. 
 
 6th. When to Plant. — In parts of the country where 
 the winter is long and severe, or w^here freezing and thaw- 
 ing are frequent, fall planting cannot be successful, as the 
 plants, having no hold of the ground, are drawn out and 
 injured ; and besides, if the ground is somewhat clayey 
 and tenacious, the heavy rains that occm' early in the 
 spring wdll make it so compact that air will not penetrate 
 it, and the young roots will form slowly and feebly. 
 When neither of these difficulties is to be feared, fall 
 j)lanting is decidedly preferable. Spring planting should 
 be done at the earliest moment the condition of the ground 
 will admit, which is, w^hen dry enough to crumble into 
 fine particles when turned over with the spade. 
 
 Yth. Distance to Plant. — We are all in the habit of plant- 
 ing quite too closely in the nursery ; the consequence is that 
 the trees are not well proportioned. As a general thing, 
 the standards are in many cases as large six feet from 
 the ground as at the collar, weak and top heavy, so that 
 sticks have to be used to support them, even when four 
 years old. Kot long ago I observed in a nursery which 
 has the reputation of being one of the best managed in 
 this comitry, whole squares, some thousands of four year 
 old apple trees, of all kinds, tied up to sticks ; they were 
 not able to support their own weight. One reason, and the 
 principal one, was, they were planted too close^ the other 
 will be spoken of presently. Pyramidal trees are out of 
 the question where such close j)lanting is practised, the 
 growth is always forced to the top. l^ature gives us 
 numerous and striking illustrations of the effect of close 
 planting. We see in a natural group or thicket trees 
 6* 
 
130 THE NUESEEY. 
 
 running up forty or fifty feet of an equal diameter, and 
 without a brancli ; and if one sucli tree were left exposed, 
 by the removal of those around it, the first high wind 
 would blow it down. On the outskirts of this group or 
 thicket, or perhaps completely isolated, in the centre of a 
 field, we see another tree of the same species, branched 
 almost from the ground, and with a diameter at the base 
 twice as great as at half its height, and taj)ering upward 
 with beautiful regularity, and capable of resisting a hur- 
 ricane. To raise stout, well-proportioned trees, we must 
 give them plenty of room, that they may have the advan- 
 tage of air all around^ and not only at the top. 
 
 There is scarcely a nursery to be found in which 
 the trees are not grown too close — three or four on the 
 space that one should occupy. There is to be sure great 
 economy in close planting, for five hundred trees can be 
 grown on the space that one should occupy, and with 
 nearly as little labor; but it would really be better for 
 people to pay twice or three times as much for their trees 
 if grown so far apart that the air and light would have 
 free access to them in all parts, and give them stout, well- 
 proportioned forms. A reform in this respect is much 
 needed, but it cannot be expected until j^urchasers become 
 discriminating and intelligent on the subject. 
 
 The distance at which stocks should be planted in the 
 nursery rows is governed entirely by circumstances. If 
 it be intended to use a cultivator between the rows, they 
 should not be less than three and a half feet aj^art. If 
 spade and hoe culture be intended, two and a half to 
 three feet will be sufficient. Where the trees are to be 
 removed at the age of one year, one foot apart in the rows 
 is sufficient ; but if they are to remain until two, three or 
 four years they should be eighteen inches to two feet. If 
 removed at two years, eighteen inches is enough ; but 
 where standards remain three or four years, until they 
 
TRANSPLANTING STOCKS. 131 
 
 have heads formed, and pyramids remain nntil they have 
 formed two or three tiers of lateral branches, two feet or 
 two and a half is little enough. Indeed, wdien pyramids 
 remain for three years, there should be a clear space 
 three feet on all sides. 
 
 Dwarf standards require less space than full stand- 
 ards, and dwarf bushes still less. The stocks intended for 
 these difterent classes of trees should be planted sepa- 
 rately. In sorting the stocks at the time of dressing, the 
 largest should be used for full standards and the smaller 
 for low or dwarf standards. 
 
 8. Mode of Planting. — The square or plot of ground 
 for each class of stocks being ready, a line is stretched 
 along one side and a trench opened with the SjDade, deep 
 and wide enough to hold the roots ; the plant is then held 
 against the side of the trench next the line, by one man, 
 whilst the earth is filled in by another ; when about half 
 the earth is in, it is trodden down pretty firmly by the 
 foot, and the remainder filled in. As buds are usually 
 inserted on the north side of the stocks they should incline 
 slightly to the south. Good pulverized snrface soil slionld 
 always be put upon the roots, to induce the immediate for- 
 mation of young fibres. During the planting, the roots 
 must be carefully guarded from exj^osure. A few only 
 should be taken out of the ground at a time. 
 When there are but few^ fibrous roots, puddling 
 in thin mud is useful, otherwise not. 
 
 Planting Root Grafts. — The quickest mode 
 of planting small root grafts is to stretch a line 
 along the ground to be planted, and with a 
 dibble make the holes and press the earth 
 in around the plants. This dibble should ^^^ ^g 
 be twelve to eighteen inches long, about FormcfDih- 
 two inches in diameter, pointed and shod ^^^ "'^'^ '" 
 
 ' ^ planting root 
 
 with iron — fig. 86 represents one made of grafts. 
 
132 THE NUKSEKY. 
 
 the handle of a spade. One person will plant as many 
 in this way as four conld by opening trenches with 
 spades. But where the plants are dibbled in, the ground 
 must be in the best condition, perfectly dry and finely 
 pulverized. 
 
 Treatment of Stocks ciftei^ Planting. — The principal 
 care which stocks require between the time they are 
 planted and the time they are budded, is to keep the 
 ground about them clean of weeds, and in a friable, 
 porous condition on the surface by frequent stirring. The 
 success of budding depends in a great measure on the 
 condition of the stocks. They must he in a thrifty, grow- 
 ing state, and this can only be obtained with good treat- 
 ment. Having now considered, in as much detail as 
 seems necessary, the propagation and transj^lanting of 
 stocJcs into the nursery rows, we proceed with 
 
 Section 4. — The Budding, Grafting, and Management of 
 Trees in the Nursery. 
 
 The simplest and clearest method of treating this part 
 of the subject seems to be, that of considering separately 
 each year's operations in succession. 
 
 The First Year. — Strong yearling seedlings of the 
 apple^pear^ cherry.^ and plum.^ say one fourth of an inch and 
 upwards in diameter, and well rooted layers of the quince^ 
 paradise^ and Doucain.^ of the same size, planted in the 
 sjjring in a good soil, and kept under good clean culture 
 will, as a general thing, be in a fit state for budding in 
 July, August, or September following. The budding may 
 therefore be considered as the first season's work. The 
 details of this operation may be divided for consideration, 
 as follows : 
 
 1. Time for Budding. — 2. Preparation of the Stocks, 
 
BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETC. 133 
 
 — 3. Prepainng the Buds. — i. Insertion of the Buds. — 5. 
 Untying. 
 
 1st. The time for budding each species or class of fruits 
 depends upon its habits of growth. Such as cease to 
 grow early in the season, must be budded early, because 
 it can only be done while the stocks are in a free, growing 
 state, full of sap. Such as grow until late in the autumn, 
 must be budded late, otherwise the new layers of wood 
 formed after the insertion of the bud, would grow over 
 and destro}^ it, or the bud would be forced into a prema- 
 ture grow^th towards autumn, which in fruit trees should 
 always be avoided. The common sorts of plum terminate 
 their growth early in the season, and are therefore budded 
 early, whether with plums, peaches, or apricots, at Ro- 
 chester usually about the last of July, or beginning of 
 August. The native or Canada plum, and the elierry or 
 7nyrohalan^ grow freely till late in the fall, and may be 
 budded in the latter end of August, or beginning of Sep- 
 tember. Pears on pear stocks are usually budded here in 
 July, in anticipation of the leaf blight which stops their 
 growth when it attacks them. Where no such thing as 
 this is apprehended, they should not be budded before the 
 middle of August, as the buds are not generally mature 
 till that time. Apples on free stocks, and on the paradise 
 and Doucain, may be budded as soon as the buds are ma- 
 ture, which is usually, here, about the first to the middle 
 of August. Cherries on free 'tnazzard stocks — as soon as 
 buds are ripe here, about the first of August. Pears on 
 quince^ and clierries on maJialeh., not before the first of 
 September, and from that to the middle of the month, 
 as the quince and mahaleb grow late, and especially the 
 latter. Peach stocks should always be budded the same 
 season the seeds are planted, and, as they grow rapidly 
 until very late, are not usually budded till about the mid- 
 dle of September, The biidding period varies in different 
 
134 THE NUESEKY. 
 
 seasons. In a dry, warm season, the yonng wood matures 
 earlier, and stocks cease to grow sooner, and are, there- 
 fore, budded earlier than in a cool, moist season, that pro- 
 longs the growth of the stocks, and retards the maturity 
 of the buds. Stocks growing feebly require to be budded 
 earlier than those growing freely. It is necessary to keep 
 an eye to all these points. 
 
 The destruction of insects must be promptly attended 
 to. An army of slugs may devour the foliage of the pear 
 and cherry, and even the plum, in a day or two, and pre- 
 vent their being worked that season. The aj^Ms^ too, fre- 
 quently appears in such multitudes as to check the growth. 
 Dry lime or ashes thrown on the slugs will kill them, and 
 strong soap suds, or tobacco water, so strong as to assume 
 the color of strong beer, will kill the aphis. 
 
 2d. Preparation of the Stocks. — This consists in remov- 
 ing such lateral shoots from the stock as may be likely to 
 obstruct the insertion of the bud. Our practice is to do 
 this at the moment of budding, one person doing the 
 work in advance of the budders. If done a few days pre- 
 vious, and several shoots are removed, it checks the 
 growth of the stocks, and they do not work so well. It 
 might answer very well to do it two or three weeks pre- 
 vious, so that they might recover from the check before 
 being budded. 
 
 3d. Insertion of the Bud. — Having treated so fully of 
 the manner of preparing and inserting the buds in the 
 article on budding, nothing farther need be said on these 
 points here. 
 
 In free stocks the bud should be inserted within three 
 or four inches of the ground. 
 
 In some parts of the west, "Wisconsin, Illinois, and some 
 other places, certain rapid, late-growing, and rather tender 
 varieties are liable to be winter-killed if budded close to 
 the ground, probably by the sudden thawing of that part 
 
BUDDIKG, GEAFTING, ETC. 135 
 
 caused by tlie refraction of heat from the ground. In view 
 of such a difficulty, it may be well enough to bud high up, 
 but, as a general thing, low budding makes the best trees. 
 All dwarf stocks should be budded as close to the surface 
 of the ground as it is possible, and even some of the earth 
 may be removed and put back when the budding is done. 
 The necessity for this lies in the fact that all dwarf stocks 
 should be wholly below the ground when finally planted 
 out in the garden or orchard. 
 
 4th. Untying the Buds. — In ten days or a fortnight 
 after the buds are inserted, they' should be examined, and 
 such as have failed may be budded again if the stocks 
 continue to grow. In some cases it may be necessary, and 
 particularly with cherries, to loosen the buds and tie them 
 over again, as rapid growth will cause the string to cut 
 the bark before the bud has completely united, or is fit to 
 be untied. This seldom occurs, however ; as a general 
 thing, the strings may be removed in three weeks to a 
 month after the budding ; and they should never be left 
 on over the wintei', as moisture lodges around them to the 
 detriment of the bud. As soon as the budding is done, 
 the ground should be worked over with the cultivator or 
 forked spade. The first season's management of stocks too 
 small for budding consists simply in keeping the soil clean 
 and mellow, and in guarding against the attacks of 
 insects. 
 
 The treatment of root grafts the first season consists in 
 cleaning and loosening the ground, the removal of suckers 
 from the roots as fast as they appear, and pinching early 
 any strong side shoots likely to weaken the leader. 
 
 Second Year. — Where the buds failed the previous sea- 
 son, the stocks should now be whip-grafted near the sur- 
 face of the ground. They will be little behind the buds, 
 and will make nearly as good trees, if neatly done. Plums 
 and cherries must be done before, or as soon as the buds 
 
136 
 
 THE NUESEET. 
 
 begin to swell (say in March here); ]3ears and apples 
 may be done later. The second sized stocks^ planted last 
 season^ and intended to be budded this, should, if in a 
 feebly growing or stunted condition, be cut back to within 
 two or three inches of the surface of the ground. This 
 will give the roots new vigor, and thrifty shoots will be 
 made by budding time that will work more easily and 
 successfully than the old stock. In a month or so after 
 being cut down, all the shoots but the strongest one should 
 be removed. The stocks hudded last season are headed 
 down to within three or four inches of the bud, just as the 
 leaves are beginning to appear, and all buds starting into 
 growth on the stock, either below or above them, rubbed 
 off. 
 
 Treatment of tlie growing hud consists in keeping all 
 ^ shoots that appear on the stock rubbed off. 
 
 If side shoots appear early, and are likely 
 to contract the growth of the leader, they 
 should be pinched off. Any that assume a 
 reclining or crooked habit should be tied up 
 to the stock, or to a support, w^hich may be 
 a wooden pole four feet long, sunk a foot in 
 the ground at the root of the stock ; both 
 the stock and growing shoot should be fast- 
 ened to it (fig. 87), but not so close as to 
 impede the growth. This is only necessary 
 w^ith certain weak, irregular growing sorts. 
 In August the portion of the stock left 
 Fig- 87. above the bud at the heading down in the 
 
 tre't in^iTfir^'st'^st^ spriug should be removed with a sloping 
 son-s growth, sup- cut, close and smooth, as at A (fig. 87), at the 
 TiiTiine^a^t X in- highcst poiut of uuiou bctwecn the bud and 
 dicates the cutting gtock. The ucw laycrs of wood made after 
 Xsl to the^buY^ this time covers the wound before growth 
 ceases in the fall. Side shoots, when they appear, must 
 
BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETC. 137 
 
 be checked, if too vigorous, by pinching off their ends, 
 but not entirely removed, as thev assist in giving size and 
 strength to the lower part of the body of the young tree. 
 The peach almost invariably produces numerous side 
 branches the first season, and it is a very common but very 
 erroneous practice to prune these all oif in mid-summer. 
 The proper course is to maintain an uniform vigor amongst 
 them by pinching, and to prevent any from encroaching on 
 the leading shoot ; in this way we get stout, well-propor- 
 tioned trees. This brings us to the end of the second year, 
 and gives us young trees of one year's growth. Peach 
 trees should always be planted out at this age, and all trees 
 intended for training in j)articular forms ; but as this part 
 of the subject will be considered under the head of " Selec- 
 tions of Trees^^ we will proceed to the course of manage- 
 ment for the 
 
 Third Year. — ^We commence this year with trees of 
 one year's growth ; and the first point is to determine what 
 form is to be given them, whether tall or dwarf stand- 
 ards.^ pyramids^ hushes^ or espaliers. Having settled these 
 matters, we have but to follow up the proper course to 
 accomplish the desired ends. It may be well to take each 
 of these forms in succession, and point out the necessary 
 management under various circumstances. 
 
 1st. Standards. — Until very lately, trees of all sorts, 
 and for every situation, were grown as tall standards, with 
 naked trunks six and even eiglit feet high. Indeed, it 
 appeared as though an impression existed amongst peoj)le 
 that a tree was not in reality a tree, nor worthy of a place 
 on their gromids, if it had not this particular form. Lat- 
 terly, however, since fruit tree culture has become more 
 practised, and somewhat better understood, this impres- 
 sion has been gradually losing ground, and in all parts 
 of the country low trees are finding advocates. 
 
 Experience is beginning to teach people that whilst tall 
 
138 THE NURSERY. 
 
 standards in an orchard possess the single advantage of 
 admitting the operations of the plough nnder the branches, 
 lovv' standards are mncli more secnre against the nnmerons 
 fatal diseases that attack the trunks — are much more 
 accessible for the performance of all the necessary details 
 of management, and for the ffatherino- of the fruit. 
 
 These are all very important advantages certainly ; but 
 the most important one is the safety of the tree against 
 diseases of the trunk. In all parts of this country, we 
 have a powerful sun in summer, and in winter and spring 
 sudden and violent changes from one extreme to another; 
 and experience has shown, that the trunk and large 
 branches, being fully exposed to all external influences, 
 are generally the parts first attacked wdth disease. Cul- 
 tivators are, of course, at liberty to choose for themselves ; 
 but, except to meet the w^ants of some particular circum- 
 stances, no standard tree should have a branchless stem 
 above five feet in height : four is preferable for all, ex- 
 cept orchards of common apples for cider or stock. Trees 
 with heads only four feet from the ground, are always easy 
 of access, and the natural spread of the branches aflbrds 
 a great protection to the tiamk at all seasons. E^ursery- 
 men should by all means encourage by precept and ex- 
 ample the cultivation of low-headed trees. 
 
 Starting with the yearling trees for standards, we 
 examine the habit of the variety, whether stout or slen- 
 der, whether branched, as many varieties are the first 
 season, or without branches. Before proceeding to the 
 operation of cutting down to increase the size of the 
 trmik, the reader is referred to the principles and prac- 
 tices of pruning in the first part of the work. IS'o ^r\^\\~ 
 ing should be attempted for the attainment of any special 
 purpose without having first carefully studied these. 
 
 If slender and without side branches, as in fig. 88, 
 they should be cut back twelve to twenty inches, as at A. 
 
BUDDING, GEAFTIKG, ETC. 
 
 189 
 
 Tins removes the buds that would push first, and retains 
 the sap in the lower parts, which 
 will give a stout body. The taller 
 and more slender the tree, and 
 the smaller the buds, the farther 
 it becomes necessary to cut back. 
 In fact, some very feeble growing 
 sorts must be cut back till within 
 a foot or less of the base. Dur- 
 ing the summer, trees cut back in 
 this way may produce lateral 
 shoots on the greater ^^art of their 
 length. These must not be pruned 
 off, but kept in an uniform size 
 and vigor, by pinching any that 
 threaten to exceed their proper 
 bounds. The shoots immediately 
 below the leader, must be watch- 
 ed, as they are always inclined to 
 
 Fig. 88. Fig. 89. pusll tOO StrOUgly. 
 
 i^^. 88, a yearling tree; from the ^ ^rCC thuS CUt back, aud the 
 Dud yl. indicates the cutting brtck to 
 
 make a stout stem for a standard. B sidc brauches rCgulatcd by piucll- 
 and C. tl.e cutting back for pyra- • ^^^.^. -^ thc Ml, haVC a StOUt 
 
 mids or low standards. D. the cut- o" ' ' 
 
 ting back for dwarfs or esiiaiiers. body, and prcscut the appcarancG 
 
 F/... 89. a young tree once cut back ^ n gg -y^^ ^j VearliugS 
 
 to form trunk for a standard. & ^ o 
 
 are short and stout, and are fur- 
 nished with a few lateral shoots, cutting back may be 
 unnecessary. The largest of the side shoots may be 
 pruned off wholly, and the small ones left to retain the 
 tap in the lower part of the stem, at least till midsummer, 
 when new ones will have been produced. There are cer- 
 tain stout-growing, branching varieties of all the fruits 
 that require no shortening and very little pruning of any 
 kind, to form stout trunks, and especially when not 
 planted too close. 
 
140 THE NURSERY. 
 
 Dwarf Standards, — The management of yearly buds 
 to produce these, is similar to that described for standards, 
 varying it always to suit the particular habit of the spe- 
 cies or variety ; tall slender growing sorts require cutting 
 back, and the suppression of branches at the top; but 
 many varieties of cherries and plums, some very stout 
 growing pears and apples, and all ajmcots and j^eaches, 
 may commence the formation of heads this season. The 
 stem is cut at the point desired, two to three feet from the 
 ground, to form the head on, and three or four of the 
 stoutest shoots, growing in opposite directions, are pre- 
 served, whilst all others close to them are pinched off, 
 when two or three inches long ; side branches are allowed 
 to remain that season on the stem to strengthen it, but 
 they are kept short and regular by pinching. In the fall 
 these trees will be fit for the final planting out, whilst 
 those of weaker habit will require another season, if they 
 be wanted with heads. 
 
 Pyramids. — Yearling trees intended for pyramids are 
 cut back so far as to ensure the production of vigorous 
 side branches within six or eight inches of the stock. The 
 habits of growth of the species and variety must be care- 
 fully taken into account. Some are disposed, from the 
 beginning, to form lateral branches, and others require 
 vigorous measures to force them to do so. As examj^les, 
 the Bloodgood pear is very much inclined to branch the 
 first year, whilst the Louise Bonne de Jersey and Duchess 
 d'Angouleme seldom do so, unless ni some way the growing 
 point be checked. So it is in chei ries ; most of the Dukes 
 and Morellos are inclined to produce laterals the first 
 season, but the free growing sorts. Hearts and Bigarreaus^ 
 rarely do so, unless the point is checked early in the sea- 
 son. So it is in all the fruits, and therefore no general 
 rule can be given, but the appearance of the tree indicates 
 the treatment required. Where we see side branches 
 
BUDDING, GKAFTLNG, ETC. lil 
 
 naturally produced the first season, we at once conclude 
 that the buds are well disposed to break, and the cutting 
 back may be comparatively light. Where no side 
 branches are produced, we must be governed by the 
 appearance of the buds on the lower part of the tree, 
 where it is desired to produce the lower branches ; if they 
 be small and flat, it will take close cutting to arouse them, 
 but if plump and prominent, less vigorous measures will 
 be necessary. In the case of short, stout, and branched 
 yearlings, a few of the best placed, lowest, and strongest 
 branches are reserved, whilst the others are entirely re- 
 moved. We then shorten the reserved branches accord- 
 ing to their position, leaving the lowest the longest. The 
 leading shoot is shortened, so that all the buds left will be 
 sure to push and form shoots. When these have attained 
 the length of two or three inches, the strongest and best 
 placed are selected for permanent branches, and the others 
 are pinched off. 
 
 Yearlings that have no side branches, figure 88, we 
 generally cut back one half as to B^ and in many cases 
 two thirds to C\ in order to obtain strong branches near 
 the grourid. Every bud below the one we cut to, should 
 push, and when shoots of two inches or so are made, we 
 select two, three, or such number as may be wanted, of 
 the strongest and best situated to be reserved, and pinch 
 the others. It very generally happens that two or three 
 buds next below the one we cut to, push with such vigor 
 as to injure both the leading shoot above and the side 
 shoots below them. They must be watched and pinched 
 as soon as this disposition becomes obvious. Yearling 
 trees managed in this way will present in the fall the 
 appearance of fig. 90. 
 
 Purchasers are very apt to favor tall trees, even at the 
 expense of their forms ; and nurserymen, even those who 
 know better, with a view to suiting the tastes of their cus- 
 
14:2 
 
 THE NUESEEY, 
 
 tomers, rarely cut their trees back sufficiently to make 
 pyramids. The first branches are seldom less than two 
 feet from the ground, and it is quite dif- 
 ficult to make nice pyramids of such 
 trees afterwards ; at all events, it incurs 
 a great loss of time, for the w^hole of 
 the branches and half of the stem must 
 be cut away to produce the required 
 form. 
 
 Dwarf Bushes. — The aj^ple on para- 
 dise is generally grown in this form, 
 with six to twelve inches of a stem and 
 spreading heads. The Morello cherry 
 and the cherry and Mirabelle plums, 
 and many kinds of pears, may be 
 growm as dwarf bushes, if desirable. 
 The stocks must all be of a dw^arf cha- 
 racter. Plants from which the strongest 
 have been selected for dwarf standards 
 and ]3yramids, will make very good 
 bushes. The branches being so near 
 the root renders a less amount of vigor 
 necessary. Yery strong yearling plants 
 may be allowed to form heads the 
 second year, but such as are "Dery slender w^ill require cut- 
 ting back and another season's grow^th, before the head is 
 allow^ed to form ; and they will require a similar course of 
 treatment, as has been recommended for standards, and 
 dwarf standards. Ko matter what the character of the 
 tree is, a stout stem is necessary, and although the mea- 
 sures taken to obtain this seem to require in some cases a 
 loss of time, still there is a gain in the end ; for trees 
 allowed to form heads before the stems are amply suffi- 
 cient to support them, require a great deal of extra care 
 after planting, out, and a course of shortening back, that 
 
 Fig. 90. 
 Pig. 90, a two year old 
 tree cut back once, and 
 inten.led for a pyramid. 
 The cross lines inJicate 
 the second cutting back. 
 
BUDDING, GKAFTING, ETC. 143 
 
 olisots the temporary advantage of forming the head a year 
 sooner. This hokls good in all cases. The mode of form- 
 ing the heads of dwarf bushes is similar to that described 
 for standards. 
 
 Espalier Trees. — ^These have a few advantages peculiar 
 to themselves, which will be explained under the head of 
 " the selection of trees for the garden." 
 
 To form espaliers, yearling trees are usually chosen, 
 planted in the place where they are to remain and cut 
 back to within four or five buds of the stocks, as at 2>, 
 fig. 88 ; these buds break and produce shoots from which 
 the strongest are chosen to form the arms, and the others 
 are rubbed off. 
 
 The peach grows so vigorously that, if the growing 
 bud be checked when a foot high, it will produce side 
 shoots, from which two may be selected from the main 
 branches of the espalier, and thus a year will be saved. 
 Another w^ay is to insert two buds, one on each side of 
 the stock. Yery nice espalier trees may be grown in 
 the form of a pyramid with a main stem and lateral 
 branches, the lowest being the longest. Trees for this 
 form require the same management as pyramids, except 
 that the branches should be placed opposite on tir)0 sides. 
 This brings us to the end of the third year, and the trees 
 are now two years old from the bud. At this age w^e 
 take it for granted that all trees on dwarf stocks iox p)yra- 
 mids^ dwarfs^ and espaliers^ and all standards even, of 
 the peach, apricot, and nectarine, and in most cases the 
 cherry and plum, w^ill be finally planted out. Standard 
 ]3ears and apples are almost the only trees that require to 
 be left longer in the nursery, and their management 
 during the third and fourth years of their growth, if 
 allowed to remain so long, will be similar to that de- 
 scribed for the second. In the spring, February or 
 March, the leading shoot is cut back in order to increase 
 
144 THE NTJESERY. 
 
 the stoutness of the stem as it advances in height; and 
 during the summer, the side shoots are kept of uniform 
 length and vigor by pinching. The lower side branches 
 are removed gradually every season as the tree becomes 
 strong enough to dispense with them. As it has been be- 
 fore remarked, the cutting back depends always on the 
 natural character of the subject — stout, short-jointed, mod- 
 erate growing sorts, that naturally increase in height and 
 diameter of stem in proper proportions, will require no 
 cutting back. Yery few, however, have this habit. In 
 nearly all cases more or less shortening in, every spring, 
 is necessary until the stem has arrived at the requisite 
 height, and is well proportioned, decreasing gradually in 
 diameter from the base to the toj). 
 
 The Treatment of the Soil. — During the whole period 
 the trees remain in the nursery, the ground about them 
 must be kept clean and finely pulverized on the surface 
 by repeated and continual stirring. Every spring, as soon 
 as the heavy rains are over, and the ground settled and 
 dry, the space between the rows should be ploughed, if 
 they are far enough apart to admit of it. A small one- 
 hoi*se plough, such as is used for ploughing cornfields (see 
 implements), is suitable, but it should not be allowed to go 
 nearer the tree than six inches, nor so deejj as to come in 
 contact with the roots. After ploughing, the cultivator 
 may be run through once each way between the rows, 
 every week or two, and this will leave very little hoeing to 
 be done. If the rows are so close as not to admit the 
 plough and cultivator, the forked spade must be used in 
 the spring to give the ground a thorough stirring, and the 
 hoe afterwards. If the ground be naturally adhesive, a 
 second or even a third ploughing or spading may be 
 necessary in the course of the summer ; for it must at all 
 times be kept in a loose, porous condition, or the roots will 
 be deprived of the benefits of the air and moisture. Stir- 
 
THE GKAPE VINE. 145 
 
 ring the ground so often tliat weeds barely make their 
 apjoearance, is not only the best, but most economical cul- 
 ture. 
 
 It need scarcely be added that in using the plough 
 or cultivator among trees, a very short whitHetree should 
 be used, the horse should be gentle and steady, and the 
 ploughman both careful and skilful ; and laborers who 
 use the spade or hoe, should be duly cautioned against 
 cutting or bruising the trees with their implements. 
 
 Section 5. — Propagation and ISTursery Culture of 
 Several Fruit Trees and Shrubs not usually 
 Grafted or Budded. 
 
 1st. The Grape Vine. — Thi^ is one of the easiest sub- 
 jects to propagate among all our fruit trees. 
 
 In all stages of its growth it should have a dri/ and 
 rich soil^ dryness first and most of all. The surest 
 method of propagation for unpractised hands, is layering. 
 A branch or shoot of the current season's growth, laid 
 down in June, in the manner described in the first part 
 of this book (figs. 61 and 62), will be well enough rooted 
 to bear transplanting in the fall or spring following. The 
 reader is referred to the instructions on layering. 
 
 The next mode is by long cuttings. At the winter 
 pruning, the strongest, roundest, and firmest shoots of the 
 previous season's growth are selected, and cut into pieces 
 twelve to eighteen inches long, with two or three eyes, as 
 in fig. 60. They are cut close to an eye at the lower end, 
 or a piece of the old wood may be attached, like fig. 68^ 
 These cuttings are buried in dry, sandy earth, till the 
 ground is fit to receive them in the spring. 
 
 In planting, the whole cutting is buried but one eye, 
 and some cover that even as much as an inch deep. The 
 long cutting must be laid in the trench obliquely, as in 
 
14:6 THE NUESERY. 
 
 fig. 60, SO that the lower part will not be out of reach of 
 air and heat, w^ithont which new roots will not be formed. 
 
 During the summer, the earth must be kept clean and 
 friable around them ; and, in dry seasons, a thick mulch- 
 ing will be very beneficial in j)reserving a uniformity of 
 heat and moisture. In the fall, the plants w^ill be fit for 
 final transplanting ; but if they remain another season, 
 they should be pruned back in winter to two or three 
 buds at the base, and during the following summer only 
 one or two shoots be allowed to grow, all others being 
 rubbed off early. 
 
 Layers, when taken from the mother plant, and set in 
 nursery rows, should be cut back in the same manner, in 
 order to obtain one or two vigorous shoots when the 
 plant is to be finally set oul?. 
 
 SJiort Cuttings. — ^These consist of only one eye, from 
 the stoutest and firmest shoots of the previous year's 
 wood (fig. 59), with not more than an inch of wood on 
 each side of it. These cuttings, however, seldom succeed 
 so well in the open ground as others. They require a 
 little artificial bottom heat. 
 
 The simplest way to treat them is to make a sort of 
 hotbed, with two to three feet of half-decayed stable 
 manure, well mixed, and six or eight inches of light 
 sandy soil. The cuttings are planted in this a quarter to 
 half an inch deep, and covered with a glazed sash. If 
 carefully and regularly watered, and well ventilated, they 
 will make fine plants by the autumn. A better way than 
 this is, especially in propagating the foreign varieties, to 
 put them into pots, and put the 23ots in the hotbed. 
 
 A single cutting may be put into a small three inch 
 pot, covered a fourth of an inch deep ; or several cuttings 
 may be inserted in a larger pot. In this case they should 
 be placed around the sides. When they have made a 
 growth of about six inches, they may be shifted into 
 
THE CUKEAKT. 147 
 
 larger pots, with good, rich compost. In one season they 
 will make good, strong plants. Plenty of air should 
 always be given them, as soon as they are rooted, to 
 prevent their being drawn tip into weak, watery shoots. 
 When the native hardy sorts are raised from eyes in the 
 hotbed as described, the yearling plants should be pruned 
 to a couple of eyes, and transplanted into nursery rows, 
 where one season's growth will fit them for final setting. 
 
 Single eyes^ in all cases, make the best plants. 
 
 2d. The Currant. — Every one knows how to pro^Dagate? 
 this. A yearling shoot, six inches to a foot long, taken 
 ofiT close to the old wood, and planted half or two thirds 
 its length in the ground, in the spring, will make a 
 strong, well-rooted plant in the autumn. To prevent 
 shoots from springing up below the surface of the ground, 
 the eyes on that part are cut out, or they may be left the 
 first season, and cut out w^hen the plants are rooted. 
 
 The buds aid in the formation of roots. "When a 
 variety is rare and scarce, the young shoots may all be 
 layered in July, and they will make well-rooted plants in 
 the fall. 
 
 3d. Gooselerries are propagated in the same way, and 
 with almost equal facility, as currants, though, as a gene- 
 ral thing, they do not grow with such rapidity. Layers 
 are the surest, but they require to be one year in the 
 nursery rows after being separated from the mother plant 
 to make them strong enough for the final planting. An 
 inch or two of swamp moss laid over the surface of the 
 ground in which layers are made, assists in retaining the 
 moisture. This is applicable to all kinds of layers. 
 
 4th. Straioberries are propagated by the runners, which 
 spread on the sm*face of the ground in all directions from 
 the plant as soon as it begins to grow in the spring. 
 Where a variety is scarce, and it is desirable to multiply 
 it carefully, these runners should be sunk slightly in th^j 
 
lt!:S THE NUKSEEY. 
 
 ground, and j^egged down with small hooked sticks, as 
 they will root and form plants fit for removal much 
 quicker than if left to root in their own way. With 
 good management, a single plant may produce twenty- 
 five to fifty, and even one hundred in one season. Plants 
 to be propagated from, should have abundance of space, 
 and a deep, rich soil. An application of liquid manure 
 will stimulate their vigor, and increase the number and 
 strength of the runners. 
 
 5th. Raspherries are propagated from suckers, or shoots 
 produced from the collar, or spreading roots of the plant. 
 They are renewed every season. The canes bearing but 
 once, they may be propagated by layering the young 
 canes in midsummer, and by cuttings of the roots. The 
 latter mode is advantageously aj)plied in the case of new 
 or rare sorts. 
 
 6th. Bcrherries are propagated by seeds, suckers, and 
 layers, in the simplest manner. Rare sorts are also grafted 
 successfully on the common ones early in the spring, in 
 the cleft mode. 
 
 Yth. Miilherries. — ^The large black mulberry is the only 
 one worthy of culture for the fruit. It is easily propa- 
 gated both by cuttings and layers. The latter mode is 
 the surest. 
 
 8th. Chestnuts. — The common American chestnut may 
 be proj^agated from seeds either planted in the fall or 
 kept in sand all winter, and planted early in the sj)ring. 
 In one season they are fit to transplant into nursery rows, 
 and in two years more at most may be finally planted 
 out. 
 
 The Spanish chestnut is propagated either from seeds 
 or by grafting on the common chestnut. Its fruit is three 
 times as large as the common. 
 
 9th. Filberts are propagated either from suckers or by 
 grafting. If seedlings are used for stocks, the grafted 
 
LABELS FOR NUESERY TREES. 149 
 
 plants are the best, as they are not only more prolific, but 
 they do not throw np suckers. They may be grown 
 either as low standards, with stems three feet high, or as 
 pyramids or dwarf bushes. 
 
 10th. Walnuts are propagated from seeds or by graft- 
 ing, in the same way as filberts. There is a dwarf pro- 
 lijie variety, that bears quite young, and makes handsome 
 pyramidal garden trees. 
 
 Section H. — Labels for IN^uesery Trees. 
 
 It is highly important that a correct system for preserv 
 ing the names of varieties be adopted. Our practice is, to 
 make labels of cedar, eighteen inches long, three inches 
 wide, and about an inch thick. These are pointed on one 
 end, to be sunk in the ground eight or ten inches, 
 and the face is painted white. When a variety 
 is to be budded or grafted, the name, or a number 
 inferring to a regular record is written on it, 
 and it is put in the ground in front of the first tree 
 of the variety. Besides this, we invariably record 
 in the nm*sery book each row, with the kind or 
 kinds worked on it, in the order they stand in 
 the square. In case of the accidental loss of the 
 labels, the record preserves the names. Figure 
 91 represents this kind of label, and though there 
 are many others in use, we believe this is one of 
 the simplest and best. 
 
 At the time of budding or grafting, we usually 
 
 write the name on with pencil, and after the 
 
 Fig. 91, la- square has been all worked, the numbers are 
 
 bel for nur- 
 
 made with a brush and black paint. 
 
 sery rows. J- 
 
150 THE NUESEEY. 
 
 Section 7. — Taking up Teees eeom the Nueseey. 
 
 This is an oj^eration that should be well iinderstoocl, 
 and performed with the greatest care. The importance of 
 the fibrous roots has been already explained. It has been 
 shown that they are the principal absorbing parts of the 
 roots, and when they are destroyed the tree receives a 
 great shock, from which it requires good treatment and a 
 long time to recover. There is a great difference in the 
 character of roots, some penetrating the ground to a great 
 depth, and requiring much labor in the removal, others 
 quite fibrous near the surface, and consequently very 
 easily taken up. This difference is not owing alone to 
 the difference in the species, but to whether the subjects 
 have or have not been frequently transplanted. The way 
 to take up a tree properly, is to dig a trench on each side 
 at the extremities of the lateral or spreading roots, taking 
 care that the edge, and not the face of the spade, be kept 
 next the tree, so that the roots will not be cut oft'. "When 
 this trench is so deep as to be below all the lateral roots, 
 a slight pull, and a pry on each side with the spade, will 
 generally bring out the trees. If there be strong tap 
 roots, running down to a great depth, they may be cut 
 with a stroke of the spade. Laborers who have not been 
 accustomed to the work, invariably perform it badly, and 
 it is difficult to get it properly done even by experienced 
 hands. It is a work requiring care and leisure, though it 
 is usually performed slovenly and in great haste. 
 
 LdbelUng. — When a tree, or a number of trees, of any 
 variety are taken up, a label, with the name written on it, 
 should at once be attached. The kind of label used in 
 the nurseries here, is a piece of pine about three and a half 
 inches long, three fourths of an inch wide, and one eighth 
 
TAKING UP TREES FROM THE NURSERY. 
 
 151 
 
 of an inch thick. A neck is made on one end by cutting 
 
 into each edge about an eighth of an inch ; a piece of 'No. 
 
 32 copper wire, about seven or eight inches long, is then 
 
 fastened in the middle, on the neck of 
 
 the label, with two or three twists. 
 
 The two ends of the wire are then 
 
 placed around the stem, or a branch of 
 
 the tree, and are fastened with a twist or 
 
 two. This kind of wire and label we 
 
 find by experience to be not only safe, 
 
 but more expeditiously attached than 
 
 any other. If a little paint is rubbed on 
 
 just before being used, the writing will FrG.92. 
 
 be more legible and permanent, but it wire labei for trees. 
 
 should be so light as to be barely perceptible, else it will 
 
 clog the pencil. These labels are made very quickly, as 
 
 follows: take a common inch board planed, cut into 
 
 pieces the length of the label, make a groove with a knife 
 
 or saw along both sides, at one end for the neck, and then 
 
 set the piece on its end, and split off the labels with a 
 
 knife ; this can be done nearly as fast as one person can 
 
 pick them up. The wire costs three shillings per pound, 
 
 and is cut into lengths with a pair of common shears. 
 
 Packing. — Persons who are ignorant of the structure 
 of trees, never appreciate the importance of packing ; and 
 that is the reason why so many trees are every year 
 destroyed by exposure. It is not uncommon, in this part 
 of the country, to see apple trees loaded on hayi-acks, 
 like so much brush, without a particle of covering on any 
 part of them, to travel a journey of three or four weeks 
 in this condition. Of course it is utterly impossible that 
 such trees can live or thrive ; and yet the persons who 
 thus conduct their nursery operations, are doing the most 
 profitable business. Such practices are not only dishonest. 
 
152 THE NUESEEY. 
 
 but tiglilj injurious and disreputable to the trade ; and 
 it is by no means fair to class sucli people amongst re- 
 spectable and honorable nurserymen. 
 
 Purchasers are often at fault in this matter. Nm'sery- 
 men have to buy and pay for the material used in pack- 
 ing. Mats cost one to two shillings apiece ; straw, three 
 cents per small bundle ; yam, one to two shillings per 
 pound ; moss, three to four dollars per load, in many 
 cases ; and besides, the labor of packing, when well done^ 
 is very great. It is, therefore, not unreasonable that a 
 charge be made ; but some people, rather than pay 
 twenty-five or fifty cents for packing fifty trees, would 
 expose themselves to the risk of losing all. Purchasers 
 should invariably charge the nurseryman to whom they 
 send their orders, to 2>ccGh hi the hest manner. Better pay 
 one or even two cents per tree for packing, than lose it or 
 injure it so much as to make it almost worthless. 
 
 The mode of packing pursued here is this : Where the 
 trees are 2>acked in bundles, a number of ties are first 
 laid down, then a layer of long lye straw, three or four 
 inches deep ; the trees are then laid compactly together, 
 straw being placed among the tops to prevent their being 
 chafed when drawn together, and damp moss from the 
 swamp is shaken among the roots. When the bundle is 
 built, long straw is placed on the top as below, and it is 
 then bound up as tightly as it can be drawn. Straw is 
 then placed around the roots sufiiciently thick to exclude 
 the air, and then a bass mat is sewed on over the straw. 
 If the bundle is only to go a short distance, the straw 
 can be so secured around the roots that the mats may be 
 dispensed with ; but if it has a long journey to perform, 
 it should be matted from bottom to top, and sewed with 
 strong tarred spun yarn, about as thick as a goose quill. 
 Boxes are rather more secure for very long journeys ; 
 they should be made of white wood, or some light timber 
 
TAKING UP TREES FROM THE NURSERY. 153 
 
 that holds nails well. If the trees are composed of seve- 
 ral varieties, they should be tied in small parcels of fom' 
 to six each, according to the size. The sides and ends 
 of the box should be well lined with straw, and the 
 roots bedded in moss and the tops in straw, to prevent 
 chafing. 
 
 If the box be large, two rows of cleats are necessary — 
 one in the middle and one in the top, to hold the trees in 
 their place and to keep the box from spreading. When 
 the box is nailed up, it should be banded at both ends 
 with iron hoops, fastened with wi'ought nails. Packed 
 in this way, trees may go any distance with safety. The 
 season of the year modifies the mode of packing. The 
 roots should always for a long journey be immersed in a 
 thin mud before being packed, as this excludes the air ; 
 but in the fall, this mud should be dry before the package 
 is made up, and the moss should contain very little mois- 
 ture. In a frosty time the less moisture there is about 
 the roots the better ; but an abundance of straw should 
 be used to exclude the air and frost. 
 
 Heeling in. — When trees are taken up, and cannot be 
 either packed or planted at once, they are laid in by the 
 roots in trenches ; the longer they have to remain in this 
 situation the better it should be performed. Trees are 
 often wintered in this way, and if the trenches are dug 
 deep, and the roots well spread out and deeply covered, 
 they are perfectly safe. It should be done in such cases 
 with almost as much care as the final planting of a tree. 
 When great bundles of the roots are huddled in together, 
 and only three or four inches of earth thrown over them, 
 both air and frost act upon them, and they sustain serious 
 injury. Tender trees likely to sufier from the freezing of 
 the shoots, should be laid in an inclined, almost horizon- 
 tal position, and be covered with brush, evergreen boughs, 
 or something that wiU break off the violence of the wind 
 
154 THE NUESEEY. 
 
 and frost. Straw should not be nsed, as it attracts vermin. 
 Some rough litter or manure should also be thrown around 
 the roots, and in this way the most tender of all our fruit 
 trees may be wintered with safety. 
 
PART iir, 
 
 THE LAYING OUT, ARRANGEMENT AND GENERAL MAN- 
 AGExMENT OF DIFFERENT KINDS OF PERMANENT PLAN- 
 TATIONS OF FRUIT TREES, SELECTION OF TREES, AND 
 VARIETIES, AND PRUNING AND CONDUCTING TREES 
 UNDER VARIOUS FORMS. 
 
CHAPTEK I. 
 
 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS OF FRUIT TREES. 
 Section 1. — ^The Different Kinds of Plantations. 
 
 These are of several kinds, and may be classed as fol- 
 lows — 1st. The Family OrcJiard^ which is a portion of 
 the farm set apart for the production of the more hardy 
 and common fruit, principally apples, for the use of the 
 farm stock and the family. 2d. The Market or Commer- 
 cial Orchard, is a large plantation of the various species 
 of fruit trees for the production of fruit as an article of 
 commerce. 3d. The Fruit Garden^ with the Farmer is 
 a plot of ground near the dwelling, in which the finer 
 fruits, as pears, peaches, plums, cherries, apricots, &c., 
 and all the small fruits are cultivated. In many cases, 
 and even in most cases, it is a portion of the kitchen gar- 
 den, where the table or culinary vegetables are grown. 
 With the professional man, the merchant, the mechanic, 
 and others who reside in cities, villages, and their suburbs, 
 possessing but small tracts of land, at most but a few 
 acres, the fruit garden is the only source for the supply 
 of fruits for their families, and is usually planted with 
 the more rare, perishable, and valuable sorts that cannot 
 so easily be procured in market. 
 
 The pleasure and profit derived from fruit plantations. 
 
158 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 under any or all of these circumstances, depend upon 
 the judicious selection of soil^ situation^ trees ^ and vct- 
 rieties^ and tJieir jprojper arrangement and management. 
 These are the essential points, and every man who con 
 templates planting to a greater or less extent, should 
 avail himself of all the light which exj)erience has shed 
 upon these various branches of the subject, before making 
 the first movement towards the execution of his project. 
 
 Section 2. — The Oechaed. 
 
 The orchard is distinguished from the fruit garden in 
 this, that the trees planted in it are generally of the larg- 
 est size to which the species attain ; they are grown in 
 the natural, or, as it is called, standard form, without any 
 particular training, and the varieties are generally the 
 most hardy and productive of the species. 
 
 1. The situation of an orchard with regard to exposure 
 or aspect, requires very little consideration in some parts 
 of the country. Where, as in Western I^ew York for in- 
 stance, the winters are uniform, or comparatively so, in 
 temperature, and late spring frosts do not prevail, the 
 main difficulties to guard against are the prevailing high 
 winds from the west and north that injure the blossoms 
 and blow oif the fruit before it is mature. If possible, 
 a situation should be chosen where some natural obstacle, 
 as a hill or a belt of woods, would break the force and 
 influence of these destructive winds. Where no such 
 obstacle naturally exists, a belt or border of rapid grow- 
 ing trees, such as soft maples^ white pines ^ and Abeles, 
 should be planted simultaneously with the planting of 
 the orchard, that they may grow up and form a protec- 
 tion by the time the trees have come into bearing. 
 
 In other sections, as in some of the central and south- 
 ern counties of IS^ew York, and in some parts of Ohio, 
 
THE OECHARD. 159 
 
 Illinois, Wisconsin, and others of the western as well as 
 in the southern States, where late and fatal spring frosts 
 prevail, the selection of a situation is a most important 
 point. In such localities an eastern and southern exj^o- 
 sure, and low grounds, are to be avoided. 
 
 John J. Thomas, in his Fruit Culturist, states that, " In 
 the valley of the Conhocton, which is flanked by hills five 
 hundred feet high, peach trees have been completely 
 killed to the ground, but on one of the neighboring hills, 
 five hundred feet above, and probably twelve hundred 
 feet above the level of the sea, an orchard planted in good 
 soil yields regular crops. In the town of Spencer, Tioga 
 County, near the head of Cayuga inlet, peaches have with- 
 stood the climate and done well at an elevation of seven 
 hundred feet above Cayuga Lake." Lawrence Young, 
 Esq., Chairman of the Kentucky Fruit Committee, reported 
 to the Pomological Convention at Cincinnati, in 1850, the 
 case of an orchard in that State, lying within the peach 
 district, occupying the slopes of hills of no great height, 
 inclining gently toward a river distant only a few hundred 
 yards. Its success was that common to a fickle western 
 climate — a fruit year and a failure, or perhaps two years 
 of productiveness and three of disappointment in every 
 five. 
 
 Within five miles of this orchard, however, is located 
 a hill six hundred feet high, upon which the peach crop 
 has not failed since he first knew it. Numerous other 
 instances are quoted and the particulars given with great 
 accuracy, showing the efiects of even very slight eleva- 
 tions. 
 
 Among others is an instance of the heath-peach bearing 
 a full crop in one part of an orchard, whilst in another 
 part thirty feet lower, the same variety bore not a single 
 fruit. Multitudes of such cases might be collected in all 
 parts of the country where the climate is variable, because 
 
160 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 in sucli situations vegetation is earlier excited than in those 
 more elevated and colder, and frosts always fall more 
 heavily on low than on high grounds. Every one who 
 has paid the slightest attention to the action of frost on 
 vegetation is aware, that even an elevation of two or three 
 feet of one portion of the same field or garden above the 
 other frequently proves a protection from an untimely frost. 
 In a dry and firm soil, vegetation is more exempt from inju- 
 ries by frost than in a damp, soft, and spongy soil on the 
 same level, not only because trees on such soils are more 
 mature and hardier in their parts, but because the soil and 
 the atmosphere above it are less charged with watery par- 
 ticles that attract the frost. Bodies of water that do not 
 freeze in winter, such as some of our inland lakes, exert a 
 favorable influence for a considerable distance from their 
 margins in protecting vegetation from late spring and 
 early autumn frosts. 
 
 In some parts of the West, as in Wisconsin and 
 Illinois, the winters are so variable — during the day as 
 mild as spring, and in the night the mercury falling 
 many degrees below zero — that even apple and pear trees 
 in soft, damp, and rich soils, are frequently killed to the 
 ground. 
 
 In such localities, experience has taught cultivators 
 that elevated, dry, firm, and moderately rich soil, that 
 will produce a firm, well-matured grow^th, is the only 
 safeguard against the destruction of plantations in the 
 winter. In all localities where fruit culture has made 
 any considerable progress, there is generally experience 
 enough to be found, if carefully sought for and collected, 
 to guide beginners in fixing upon sites for orchards ; and 
 no man should venture to plant without giving due 
 attention to the subject, and availing himself of all the 
 experience of his neighbors ; for experience, after all, is 
 the only truly reliable guide. 
 
THE ORCHAItD. 161 
 
 2d. The Soil. — Having treated already of the different 
 characters and modes of amelioration of soils, it is only 
 necessary here to point out what particular qualities or 
 kinds are best adapted to the different classes of fruit 
 trees, as far as experience will warrant in so doing. There 
 are soils of a certain texture and quality, in which, by 
 proper management, all our hardy fruits may be grown 
 to perfection. For instance, the soil of our specimen 
 orchard, which is that usually termed a sandy loam^ with 
 a sandy clay snlsoil^ so dry that it can be worked imme- 
 diately after a rain of twenty-four hours. On this we 
 have apples, pears, plums, cherries, peaches, apricots, and, 
 indeed, all the fruits planted promiscuously, side by side, 
 not by choice but necessity, and all these yield bountiful 
 crops of the finest fruit every season, and that, so far, 
 without any special attention in the way of manures or 
 composts. Our country abounds in such soils, and others 
 somewhat different in character, but equally eligible for 
 all fruit trees when well managed. On the other hand, 
 there are soils wholly unfit for fruit trees of any kind — 
 such are peaty or mucky, and damp, cold, and spongy soils. 
 For an orchard of apples or pears, a dry, deep, substantial 
 soil, between sandy and a clayey loam, and possessing 
 among its inorganic parts a considerable portion of lime, 
 is, according to all experience, the best.''^ On such soils 
 we find the greatest and most enduring vigor and fertility, 
 the healthiest and hardiest trees, and the fairest and best- 
 flavored fruits. Trees both of apples and pears, planted 
 on such soils in western Xew York, upwards of fifty 
 
 * The ashes of the bark of apple trees disclose the fact, that in one 
 hundred parts upwards of fifty are lime. In the sapwood eighteen of lime, 
 seventeen of phosphate of lime (similar to bone earth), and sixteen of 
 potash. In the heart or perfect wood, thirty-seven of lime. In the ashes 
 of the sapwood of the pear of one hundred parts, twelve of lime, twenty- 
 seven phosphate of lime, and twenty-two of potash. In the ash of the 
 bark, thirty of lime. 
 
162 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 years ago, are, at this day, in the very height of their 
 vigor and productiveness, without having received more 
 than the most ordinary culture. In some of these soils, 
 where the pear and apple flourish so well, and endure so 
 long, the peach does not succeed at all. The reason is, it 
 is too stiff and compact. 
 
 The plum succeeds best, as a general thing, on a clayey 
 loam, rather stifil The Canada or native plum, however, 
 succeeds well on very light soils. The clierry^ the jpeach^ 
 apricot^ nectarine^ and almond^ require a light, dry, and 
 warm soil, and will not succeed on any other. The best 
 and most enduring peach orchards are on dry, sandy 
 loams ; but good orchards are raised with proper manage- 
 ment on loose, light sands, though on such the trees are 
 shorter lived, and require constant care in the way of 
 dressings of manure and compost. There are two points 
 to be observed in regard to soils under all circumstances. 
 They must ]30ssess the inorganic substances, such as lime, 
 potash, etc., that constitute a large portion of the ashes 
 of the wood and bark when burned, and a sufficient 
 amount of organic matter, vegetable mould, which dis- 
 solves and furnishes material for the formation and 
 growth of new parts. When large and permanent plan- 
 tations are to be made, it will well repay the trouble and 
 expense of procuring the analysis of the soil, in order to 
 ascertain somewhat correctly its merits and defects. 
 People who have been long engaged in the culture of the 
 soil, can judge pretty correctly of its quality by its 
 appearance, texture, subsoil, and the character of the 
 rocks and stones that underlie and prevail in it ; but the 
 inexperienced do not understand such indications, and 
 will do well to have recourse to a careful analysis by 
 some competent person. 
 
 3d. Preparation of Soil for an Orchard. — The season 
 before planting, the soil should be at least twice ploughed 
 
THE OECHARD. 163 
 
 with a common and subsoil plough, enriched with suitable 
 composts, and drained, if necessary. It should be eighteen 
 inches to two feet deep, and quite dry. 
 
 4:th. Enclosures. — Before a tree is planted, it is neces- 
 sary that the ground be enclosed with a fence, sufficient 
 to protect it against the invasion of animals. It is no un- 
 common thing to hear people regret that the cattle broke 
 into the orchard and destroyed many trees. Indeed it fre- 
 quently happens that more damage is done in this w^ay 
 than, if duly estimated, would have fenced the whole 
 orchard. There is much inquiry now-a-days on the subject 
 of fences, and various plans and materials are suggested 
 and tried. Live hedges are unquestionably the most orna- 
 mental and appropriate enclosures for extensive planta- 
 tions of fruit trees, and in time will no doubt be generally 
 adopted. Hitherto the failure of many plants tried, and 
 the cost and difficulty of obtaining others, have retarded 
 their introduction. Experience, however, has at length 
 pretty fairly decided that the Osage orange is the hest for 
 the west and sonth west^ and the huchthorn for the north 
 and east. The seeds of both these plants are now easily 
 procured, and plants of them may be obtained in nurseries 
 at $5 or $6 per 1000, and about 2000 will fence an acre of 
 ground, setting the plants twelve inches apart in two rows 
 six inches apart, which is the strongest way. A single 
 row at six inches apart will make a good fence with pro- 
 per shearing to thicken them at the bottom ; either way 
 they will make a beautiful and efficient hedge in five or 
 six years. The honey locust is also a strong, hardy, rapid 
 growing plant, and makes a hedge in three or four years 
 that animals will be afraid to look at. It is sometimes 
 objected to hedges that they harbor birds, but it is to be 
 remembered that birds are the natural foes of insects, and 
 never fail to accomplish a vast amount of labor for the 
 good of the fruit grower, for which they ought to be fully 
 
164 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 entitled to a particii^ation in his enjoyments. As the fea- 
 thered race are persecuted and driven away from onr gar- 
 dens, insects become more mimerons and destructive ; at 
 least this is the experience of most people, and should 
 lessen, if not entirely prevent, the cruel hostility that is 
 continually waged against them. 
 
 5th. — Selection of Yarieties of Fruits for cm Orchard. — 
 This is a most important point ; the selection of varieties 
 must in all cases be made with reference to the uses to which 
 they are to be apj^ropriated. The family orchard of the far- 
 mer, w^e will suppose to contain apple trees alone, as all the 
 other fruits are, or ought to be, grown inthe fruit ga?'den. 
 His selection of varieties must be adapted to his wants 
 and circumstances. In the first place, the number of his 
 family must regulate the proportion of kitchen and table 
 varieties. In the second j^l^ce, he must consider how- 
 many he will want for sauce, how many for Ijaldng and 
 drying, how many for cider, and how many for the dessert, 
 and w^hat proportion of sweet and of acid. These are all 
 considerations that depend upon the habits, taste, and 
 mode of living of families, and for which no man can 
 provide, or suggest, but the jDlanter himself. Then, again, 
 he must consider to what extent it may be advantageous 
 to feed apples to his stock, and provide for it accordingly. 
 
 Without considering well all these points, a man may 
 sit down and select what are called " the best varie- 
 ties," and yet find himself badly suited when they come 
 to bear ; for so it happens that a variety that may be 
 hest for the dessert will be exceedingly unprofitable for 
 other purposes. A hardy, vigorous, and productive variety 
 of medium quality, quite unfit for the table, may be infi- 
 nitely more advantageous for feeding stock, than a feeble 
 growing, shy bearing variety, quite indispensable for the 
 dessert ; and an a23ple may be excellent for sauce, for bak- 
 
THE OKCHAIiD. 165 
 
 mg, or drying, and unfit for the dessert; these points 
 should all be duly considered. 
 
 The Marhet or Coininercial Orchardist must exercise 
 the same discrimination in the selection of his varieties, 
 adapting them to the mode of culture he intends to pur- 
 sue and the market he intends to suj^ply. In the imme- 
 diate vicinity of large cities and towns, where the or- 
 chardist may carry his fruit to market in a few hours, 
 the most profitable culture wdll, generally speaking, be 
 summer and early autumn fruits, or such as require to be 
 consumed immediately after maturity, and are unfit for 
 distant transportation. Early apples and j)ears only wdll 
 be profitable for him, because the autumn and winter va- 
 rieties can be sent so easily from the most distant portions 
 of the interior with such facilities as our present system 
 of railroads, plank roads, canals, and steamboats afford. 
 In addition to early apples and pears, his position gives 
 him great advantages for the profitable culture of all the 
 stone fruits^ gooseberries^ currants^ rasjiberries^ grajpes^ 
 and such soft fruits, when intended to be disposed of in a 
 raw state. 
 
 The Market grower of the interior will find his most 
 profitable culture to be principally, autumn and winter 
 apples and pears^ to which he may add quinces; because 
 all these can be packed and transported to a great dis- 
 tance with safety, and the comparative cheapness of his 
 lands enables him to compete advantageously with those 
 more favorably situated in regard to market. He can 
 only cultivate the summer fruits with a view to drying 
 or preserving, or for the supply of a local demand. All 
 orchard fruits, intended for profitable orchard culture, 
 should be first^ in regard to the trees, hardy ^ vigorous^ 
 and productive. The fruits should be of good sise^ fair 
 appearance.^ good keepers.^ and of good qualify. It should 
 
166 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 be borne in mind that many of the very best fruits are 
 very unprofitable for general market culture. Under cer- 
 tain circumstances this may not be the case, as for exam- 
 ple, in the neighborhood of such a city as London^ or 
 Paris^ or even New York or Boston. A class of people 
 are to be found in such places, who will pay almost any 
 price for extra fine fruits. Where apples can be sold for 
 $2 per bushel, pears at $1 per dozen, grapes at $1 per 
 pound, and other fine fruits in proportion, growers are 
 warranted in cultivating very choice sorts, even if they 
 be difiicult to manage and comparatively unproductive. 
 As a general thing, however, taking the markets as they 
 are, the great bulk of consumers preferring fruit of toler- 
 able good quality and moderate prices, to the very best 
 at twice or three times the ordinary price, the most 
 profitable varieties will be those that can be produced at 
 the least expense, provided always that they be good j for 
 fruits of a decidedly inferior quality, whatever may be 
 their other merits, are wholly unworthy of cultivation for 
 the market. Another thing is the selection of varieties 
 that succeed best in the locality w^here they are to be cul- 
 tivated. A variety that succeeds remarkably well in any 
 particular locality should, other things being nearly equal, 
 be cultivated largely. The Newtown jpippin apple, for 
 instance, is a profitable orchard fruit on Long Island and 
 on the Hudson, but in Western New York, no system of 
 management would make it yield one-fourth as much net 
 profit as the Northern Sjyy.^ JRhode Island Greening., or 
 Hoxhury Itusset. Large plantations, for profit, should 
 always be made uj) of well proved varieties, that have 
 been tested in the locality, or one similar in regard to 
 soil and situation. A list of select varieties will be given 
 in a succeeding and separate part of the work. 
 
 6th. Selection of Trees. — For the farmer's orchard, 
 where the ground anions: the trees is to be cultivated 
 
THE ORCHARD. 1C7 
 
 mainly with the ]3longh, and occasionally cropped, stand- 
 ard trees, with stems four or five feet in height, will he 
 the most eligible, and ought to be at time of planting 
 three or four years old from the bud or graft, w^ell grown, 
 with stout, straight, well proportioned trunks. Low, stout 
 trees are always preferable to tall, slender ones. Inexpe- 
 rienced planters are generally more particular about the 
 height than the diameter of the trunk, but it should be 
 just the other way. If trees are stout, and have good roots, 
 a foot in height is comparatively unimportant, unless to 
 one who wishes to turn cattle into his orchard and have 
 the heads of his trees at once out of their way. Few peo- 
 i:»le, however, follow such a practice. In very elevated 
 and exposed situations low trees are to be preferred, as the 
 wind does not strike them with such force as it does the 
 tall ones. 
 
 7th. Arrangernent of the Trees. — Tlie distance between 
 the trees in an apple orchard should be thirty feet from 
 tree to tree in all directions. In a very strong and deep 
 soil, where the trees attain the largest size, forty feet is 
 not too much, especially after the first fifteen or twenty 
 years. There is a great difference between the size that 
 different varieties attain, and in their habits of growth. 
 One will attain nearly double the size of another within 
 ten years. Some are erect in their habits (as fig. 3) ; oth- 
 ers spreading (as fig. 5) ; and it w^ill add greatly to the 
 symmetry of the plantation, if the trees of the same size 
 and habit of growth be planted together. Yarieties that 
 ripen about the same time should also be planted together, 
 as the maturity can be more easily watched and the fruit 
 gathered with much less inconvenience. The laro-est 
 fruits being most liable to be blown off*, should be placed 
 in the least exposed quarter. 
 
 The ordinary aiTangement of orchard trees, is the 
 square or regular form, in rows the same distance apart, 
 
168 
 
 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 and an equal distance between each tree. Tlius, in plant- 
 ing a square of one hundred feet, for example, the trees 
 to be twenty-five feet apart, we commence on one side, 
 laying a line the whole length. On this line we measure 
 off the distances for the trees, and place a stake indicat- 
 ing the point for the tree. Thus, in fig. 93, we have 
 five rows of five trees each, making twenty-five in all, 
 and all twenty-five feet apart. This is the simplest, and 
 probably the best for very small orchards. The better 
 plan for large orchards is what is called quincunx (fig. 
 9:t), in which the trees of one row are opposite the spaces 
 
 JO 20 30 40 SO 
 
 _l \ 1 I L_ 
 
 Fig. 93, square planting. Fig. 94, quincunx planting. 
 
 in the next. In this way, although the trees are at equal 
 distances, there is a larger clear area around each tree. 
 In fig. 94, the square form, every tree stands in the corner 
 of a square in the centre of, and equally distant fron 
 four others. In the quincunx, every tree stands in the 
 angle of a triangle of equal sides, and in the centre of, 
 and equally distant from six others. Thus, in the latter, 
 
THE ORCHARD. 169 
 
 there is a greater space left for the admission of light and 
 air, and trees so planted may be at less distances than in 
 the other. The operation of planting is more compli- 
 cated than that of the square, the rows not being the 
 same distance apart as the trees are in the row. The 
 first thing to be done is to find the two measures. Sup- 
 pose, for instance, we propose to plant a plot of ground 
 one hundred feet square, and to have the trees twenty- 
 five feet apart every way, we make a triangle of wood, 
 A^B^D^ each side of which is twenty-five feet ; we then 
 measure the distance from the angle B to the centre of 
 the opposite side at (7, and this gives us the distance be- 
 tween the rows, w^hich will be about twenty-one feet. 
 This wdll be called the small measure ; and with thiS we 
 measure ofi:' on two sides the distances for the rows, and 
 put down a stake at each. We then commence on the 
 first row, and with the long (twenty-five feet) measure 
 mark oft' the places for the trees, and put down a stake to 
 each. The measurements must be made with exactness, 
 in order to have the plantation present a regular apj^ear- 
 ance, as in fig. 94. 
 
 8th. Selection of Trees for the Ifarhet or Commercial 
 Orchard. — The remarks made in reference to the selec- 
 tion of standard trees for the family orchard, may be 
 applied with equal propriety to these ; but the orchardist 
 must be supposed to have invested a considerable amount 
 of cajjital, and probably devotes his entire attention to 
 his trees, and depends upon them for his support. It is, 
 therefore, a great object with him to have early returns 
 in the form of products. An orchard of standard apples 
 will not produce any considerable quantity of fruit before 
 the eighth or tenth year, nor pears before the twelfth or 
 fifteenth year. In the mean time, it is highly desirable 
 to occupy the ground amongst the trees in some way that 
 will at least bear the expenses of cultivation. If this 
 S 
 
170 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 can be done, it is as mncli as can be expected in the 
 nsual practice of cultivating root crops. The most pro- 
 fitable manner of turning to account the spaces between 
 the standard trees for the first ten or twelve years at 
 least, is to plant them with dwarf and pyramidal trees, or 
 dwarf standards, that will commence bearing the third or 
 fourth year after planting. This is the course pursued by 
 the orchardists of France and Belgium, where land is 
 valuable, and the cultivators are compelled to turn every 
 inch of it to the best account. Attention has been 
 slightly called to this mode of management in this 
 country, and a few persons have already carried it into 
 j^ractice. As soon as it comes to be considered, it cannot 
 fail to recommend itself to those who are embarking 
 extensively in the orchard culture of fruits for the 
 market, on high-priced lands. It is only surprising that 
 it should have been so long overlooked by shrewd and 
 enterprising orchardists. An acre of land, for example, 
 planted with standard apple trees, at thirty feet apart, 
 contains forty-five to fifty ; and if we fill up the spaces 
 with dwarfs on paradise, at six feet apart, leaving ten 
 feet clear around each standard, we get in about five 
 hundred dwarf trees. These will bear the third year, 
 and during the next five years the average value of their 
 products will be at least twenty to fifty cents each. We 
 would plant them in such a way that the plough and 
 cultivator could be used among them, two dwarfs be- 
 tween each standard, and two full rows between each 
 row of standards, as in fig. 95. 
 
 In very rich and deep soil, when it may be necessary 
 to give the standards thirty-five or forty feet, there may 
 be two pyramidal, or low standards, on the Doucain 
 stock between two standards, and one row of pyramids 
 and two rows of dwarfs between two rows of standards 
 
THE OECIIARD. 
 
 ni 
 
 Li seven or eight years the dwarfs might be taken out, 
 and the pyramids remain till the twelfth year. 
 
 Orchards of standa/rd pears may, in the same manner, 
 be filled up with dwarf and pyramidal trees on the quince. 
 Standard pears do not require so much space as apples 
 their branches generally are more erect. In this country 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ J 
 
 iL_ (l_ iL_ ii_ ^ 
 
 i_^^^ 
 
 0- 
 
 ^ 
 
 •L. 
 
 i^ '^ (L- 
 
 ^ A ^ A '^ 
 
 A 
 
 1. 
 
 Fir,. Oo. Fig. 96. 
 
 Fig. 95, orchard of standard and dwarf apple trees. Fig 96, orchard of 
 standard and dwarf or pyramidal pears. 
 
 standard pears should not have naked trunks over four 
 feet high at most, and twenty-five feet apart is quite suf- 
 ficient ; at this distance an acre will contain about seventy 
 trees. These, as a general thing, will not begin to bear 
 until the tenth year, unless artificial means be resorted to. 
 By jDutting one pyramid, or low standard, between each 
 in the same row, and a row ten feet apart between each 
 row of standards, as in fig. 96, we can plant 250 dwarfs, 
 or pyramids, that will commence bearing the third year, 
 and will be in full bearing the fifth ; yielding not less 
 on an average than $1 to $2 per tree. 
 
172 
 
 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 To give trees a perfectly pyramidal form requires con- 
 siderable care and skill in their management. This will be 
 spoken of presently in treating of the fruit garden ; but 
 very beautiful and prolific low standards may be made on 
 the quince, with stems about two feet high, and the heads 
 above that point left to branch in their natural way. 
 Trees of this form bear full as soon as the pyramids, be- 
 cause they are pruned less ; they may always be relied 
 upon for a crop the second or third year after planting. 
 We have gathered U23wards of fifty large and perfect spe- 
 cimens from trees four years old, and many had been 
 thinned off. Trees of the white Doyenne have produced 
 upwards of twenty very large specimens the third year, 
 from the bud. Fig. 97 is a portrait of a four-year-old Louise 
 Bonne de Jersey, on quince, never pruned. 
 
 In selecting pears on the 
 quince for profitable orchard 
 culture among standards, va- 
 rieties should be chosen that 
 succeed particularly well on 
 the quince, such as Louise 
 tonne de Jersey^ Duchess 
 d? Angouleme^ Beurre^ Diel^ 
 Bartlett^ White Doyenne^ Vi- 
 car of Winl'Jield^ Gloiit Mor- 
 ceau^ Easter Beurre^ &c., &c. 
 All these, and many others 
 that will be named hereafter, 
 grow vigorously, bear early, 
 and produce larger, and in 
 all resj^ects finer fruit on the 
 quince than on the pear. S. 
 B. Parsons, Esq., of Flushing, 
 Long Island, of the well known nursery firm of Parsons & 
 Co., has planted an orchard of four acres with 440 stand- 
 
 Fir.. 97. 
 
 Half standard pear tree on quince. 
 
THE OECIIAED. 1T3 
 
 ard pears at twenty feet a2:)art, and among these he planted 
 pears on quince ten feet apart, which gives him 1320, 
 making the whole number 1T60 on the four acres. The 
 ground he selected was an old jDasture with a light loamy 
 soil, but not inclining to sand, and a subsoil of hard pan. 
 This he planted with corn until the ground was w^ell mel- 
 lowed, and then put in two sloop loads, or 3000 bushels 
 of stable manure, worth on the ground $1Y5. The first 
 year after planting he cropped the orchard with corn, but 
 found it injurious to the trees ; since that he has cropped 
 it with potatoes and sugar beets alternately, and with good 
 management these can be made to pay for the manure, 
 and sometimes the labor. All those on their own root, 
 except one row, are the Lawrence^ a native Long Island 
 variety, and those on the quince the Glout Iforceati^ 
 Vicar of Winkfield^ Louise Bonne de Jersey^ WinteT Ne- 
 lis^ Lawrence^ and Beiirre d^Arremherg. He adds, that 
 at the time of writing, December 10, 1850, some of 
 the Yicar of Winkfield trees planted in 1849, had fifty to 
 seventj^-five fruit buds each, and expects them to produce 
 the fifth year from planting, one dollar per tree. Within 
 the past two years, several extensive plantations, w^holly 
 of pears on the quince, have been made, and considering 
 the quick return they yield, their prolific nature, and the 
 number of trees that can be planted on a small space of 
 ground, they cannot fail, under good management, to 
 prove highly profitable. Peach trees should be thrifty 
 yearlings that have not been pruned up during the sum- 
 mer, the side branches having been shortened only, and 
 regulated by pinching. At the time of planting they may 
 be pruned up, so as to leave three feet of a clean stem. 
 They may be set at the distance of fifteen feet, and even 
 twelve wall be found quite sufiScient, if the heads are 
 annually pruned, as w^ill be directed hereafter. The 
 peach growls so rapidly, and commences to bear so soon. 
 
174: PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 it would not be advisable to plant any fruit trees in tlie 
 spaces, unless currants or gooseberries ; a row or two of 
 which might be put between two rows of the peaches for 
 the first four or five years after planting. Standard cher- 
 ries on mazzard stocks should not be over two years old 
 from the bud, with stems five feet high. In the west and 
 south, vs^here the trees are subject to the bursting of the 
 bark on the trunk, it is advisable to have the trees 
 branched as near the ground as possible ; and in such 
 cases the Malialeb stock is better than the mazzard, as 
 it makes lower, more compact, and fertile trees. Or- 
 chards of pyramidal, or low dwarfs, on the Mahaleb may 
 be planted at twelve feet apart, or the ground may be 
 more compactly filled by planting standards and dwarfs 
 alternately, as in the case of the pears. 
 
 Apricots on peach stocks may be planted in the same 
 soil, and should be of the same age and character as the 
 peaches. On plum stocks they are better adapted to 
 heavy soils. Plum trees for orchard standards should be 
 about two years old from the bud or graft, with stems 
 about three feet high. The stone fruits in particular 
 should have low stems, as they are more subject to the 
 gum on the trunk if pruned up high. They may be planted 
 at fifteen feet apart, the same as peaches and a23ricots. 
 Quinces should be two years old at least, and may be 
 three from the layer, cutting, or bud, with a stem two feet 
 high, clear of branches : they may be planted twelve feet 
 apart, which gives about 300 to the acre. 
 
 9th. Pruning and Preparing the Trees for Planting. — 
 When a tree is taken up from the nursery, it unavoidably 
 loses some of its roots, and others are more or less muti- 
 lated ; the roots frequently sufier, too, by long carriage or 
 exposure, and in this state it is unable to su2323ort the 
 entire head as it came from the nursery. This has been 
 previously explained. In order that a tree may grow, it 
 
THE OECHAKD. 175 
 
 is necessary that a balance should exist between the stem 
 or branches and the root ; consequently, when a tree is 
 transplanted, its branches should be reduced by shorten- 
 ing so as to correspond with the roots. A standard tree 
 that has four or five branches forming a head, should be 
 pruned at the time of planting to wdthin three or four 
 buds of the base of each of the branches. These remain- 
 ing buds, receiving all the nourishment, will push vigor- 
 ously ; whilst if the branches had been allowed to remain 
 entire, they would have required a greater supply of food 
 than the roots could have furnished, and the tree would 
 either have died or made a very feeble grow^th. Every 
 bud we leave on the top of a tree, w^ill produce either 
 leaves or shoots, and these are so many new individuals" 
 requiring sustenance. If we leave on one hundred, it is 
 plain the demand will be much greater than if w^e leave 
 only twenty. The roots must be dressed by cutting back 
 all bruised points to the sound wood, with a smooth cut 
 on the under side of the root. Trees thus prepared are 
 ready for planting. 
 
 10th. Planting 'Orchards. — ^When the soil has been 
 thoroughly prepared by subsoil ploughing, or trenching 
 and manuring the season previous, the planting is a sim- 
 ple matter, but if this has not been done, planting properly 
 requires considerable labor ; for large holes three or four 
 feet wide and two feet deep must be dug for the trees, 
 and the requisite composts procured to be mixed with the 
 earth in which the roots are to be placed. "Whatever ma- 
 nures be applied at this time should be perfectly decom 
 posed ; as, if fresh and warm, they will burn the roots. Trees 
 are often killed in this way. The planting offers an excel- 
 lent opportunity for supplying any defects in the soil ; for 
 instance, if too compact, sand, leaf mould, muck, &c., may 
 be added to render it more porous ; and if too light, clay, 
 Btiif loam, ashes, ttc, may be added to make it more 
 
176 PEEMANE^'T PLANTATIONS. 
 
 retentive. The proper way to furnish these materials is 
 to dig large holes and put a good bed, twelve to eighteen 
 inches deep, of the compost in the bottom under the trees. 
 Lime should form a part of all composts, and especially 
 for the apple and pear ; half a peck may be mixed with 
 the bed of each tree in soil not naturally calcareous. In 
 dio-mno; the holes, the ffood surface soil should be laid on 
 one side, so that it can be used to fill in among the roots, 
 and for this purpose it should be as finely pulverized as 
 possible. 
 
 When the compost has been laid in the bottom of the 
 hole, and a layer of fine surface soil spread over it, so as 
 to be highest in the centre, the tree is set on it, so that 
 wdien the planting is finished, the collar will be about two 
 inches below the surface. In the case of trees on dwarf 
 stocks, such as peare on quince, all the stock must be under 
 the ground. The roots must be carefully adjusted so that 
 each one is sj^read out in its natural position ; the fine 
 earth is then filled in amongst them so that no vacancies 
 will be left ; the upper roots should be held back by the 
 person who holds the tree until the lower ones are covered. 
 When the filling in is half done, it may be gently trodden 
 down with the fi)ot, so as to give the tree a firmer hold of 
 the ground. In advanced spring planting, a pail of water 
 might be given to each tree when the earth is filled partly 
 in ; at other times it is unnecessary, if not injurious. 
 
 11th. Staking. — Where the trees are large, or the situa- 
 tion is exposed, either one or two stakes should be planted 
 with each tree, to which it must be kept fastened for the 
 first season, until the roots have fixed themselves in the 
 ground. A proper provision must be made to prevent the 
 tree from rubbinrr or chafino: as^ainst the stake. When 
 two stakes are used it may be fastened to each in such a 
 way as not to rub against either. 
 
 12th. MulcMng. This should be looked upon as an 
 
THE ORCHARD. 177 
 
 indispensable o^Deration in all cases. It consists in laying 
 on the surface of the ground, around the trees, to the dis- 
 tance of three feet or so, a covering of half decomposed 
 manure, saw dust, spent tan-bark, &c., two or three inches 
 deep. This prevents the moisture of the soil from evapo- 
 rating, and maintains a uniformity of heat and moisture 
 which is highly favorable to the formation of new roots. 
 It also prevents the growth of weeds around the tree, and 
 obviates the necessity of hoeing, dressing, or watering, 
 during the season. "We frequently practise it among nur- 
 sery rows of late spring-planted trees with great advan- 
 tage. A deep mulching should always be given to fall- 
 planted trees to prevent the fi'ost from penetrating to the 
 roots or drawing up the tree. 
 
 13th. After-management of Orchard Trees. — ^This con- 
 sists in the cultivation of the soil among the trees, and 
 pruning them to regulate their growth. For the first five 
 or six years after planting, the ground among orchard 
 trees may be advantageously cropped with potatoes, ruta- 
 bagas, or sugar beets. The manuring and culture that 
 these roots require, keep the soil in good condition, and 
 will assist in defraying the expenses of the orchard. 
 Grain crops should never be planted among trees, as they 
 deprive them of air to a very injurious extent. If no 
 root cro2:)s are cultivated, the ground should be kept clean 
 and mellow with the one horse plough and cultivator, the 
 same as recommended for nursery culture. Every third 
 or fourth year, the trees should receive a dressing of well- 
 decomposed manure or compost adapted to the wants of 
 the soil and the tree, worked in around the roots with the 
 forked spade. This should always be done in the fall. 
 Dwarf apples and pears require more frequent and libe- 
 ral manuring than standards, because their roots occu^^y a 
 limited space ; their heads are large compared with the 
 roots, and they bear exhausting crops. Whoever has a 
 
178 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 large plantation of these trees, should be well provided 
 with heaj^s of compost a year old, and give each tree a 
 peck to half a bushel before the setting in of winter 
 every year. This will maintain their vigor, and ensure 
 large and regular crops of fine fruit. Directions for 
 pruning and forming the heads of standard trees, will be 
 treated of under the general head of pruning. 
 
 Section 3. — The Fkuit Garden. 
 
 The fruit garden is a plantation of fruit trees intended 
 to supply the family with fruit. In some cases, where a 
 large supply of fruit is wanted, and the proprietor has 
 land and means to warrant it, a certain portion of ground 
 is wholly devoted to it ; and in others, it forms a separate 
 compartment of the kitchen garden, or is mixed with it — 
 the fruit trees occupying the borders or outsides of the 
 compartments, and the culinary vegetables the interior. 
 The latter is most general, in this country, at the present 
 time. In a country like ours, so well adapted to fruit 
 culture, where almost every citizen of every rank and 
 calling not only occupies but owns a garden, and, as a 
 general thing, possesses sufficient means to enable him to 
 devote it to the culture of the higher and better class of 
 garden productions, the fruit garden is destined to be, 
 if it is not already, an object of great importance. In 
 the old countries of Europe, the rich alone, or those com- 
 paratively so, are permitted to enjoy such luxury; for 
 land is so dear that working people are unable to pur- 
 chase it, and if they are, they are either unable to stock 
 it with trees, or their necessities compel them to devote it 
 to the j)i'oduction of the coarsest articles of vegetable 
 food that can be produced in the greatest bulk. It is not 
 BO in America. Here every industrious man, at the age 
 of five-and-twenty, whatever may be his pursuits, may, 
 
THE FKUIT GAEDEN. 179 
 
 if he choose, be the proprietor of a garden of some ex- 
 tent, and possess sufficient means to stock it with the 
 finest fruits of the land. 
 
 The present actual state of the population gives abun- 
 dant evidence of this happy and prosperous condition. 
 Let us look at our cities and villages. In Rochester, 
 excepting a narrow circle in its very centre, every house 
 has its garden, varying in extent from twenty-five l3y one 
 hundred feet to an acre of ground ; and not one of these 
 but is nearly filled with fruit trees ; and so it is, but on a 
 larger scale, in all the villages of western New York — a 
 section of country in which the first white man's settle- 
 ment can scarcely date back over fifty years. Aside 
 from the beneficial results to individual and public health 
 and prosperity from tliis general union of the fruit garden 
 and the dwelling, it cannot fail to exercise a softening 
 and refining influence on the tastes, habits, and manners 
 of the people, and greatly strengthen their love of home 
 and country. 
 
 The great thing wanting at this moment, is a knowledge 
 of the correct method of planting and managing fruit 
 gardens. We cannot pass along the streets a rod, where 
 there is a garden, without seeing and feeling that three 
 fourths of the profit and j^leasure which gardens might 
 aftbrd, are sacrificed to bad management, arising, in the 
 main, from ignorance of the proper modes of culture 
 adapted to such limited grounds ; and it is hoped that the 
 suggestions and plans offered in the following detail of 
 fruit garden management, may afford at least a portion 
 of the information wanted. 
 
 The lurmation of a fruit garden requires a consideration 
 of the soil^ situation^ enclosures^ laying out^ selection of 
 trees^ selection of varieties^ smd planting. 
 
 1st. The Situatimi. — This is generally governed by the 
 particular circumstances of the proprietor, those only 
 
180 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 ^vllo bnlld with reference to the location of tlie garden, or 
 who have a large domain at their disposal, having an 
 opportunity of selection to anv considerable extent. Per- 
 sons who live in cities and villages, have to make the 
 Lest of their situation. As it is, if it be exposed, they can 
 only give it protection by lofty enclosures, that will break 
 the force of the winds. The aspect they cannot alter, and 
 must adapt other circumstances to it. Those who can 
 should select a situation convenient enough to the dwell- 
 ing, to render it at all times easy of access, in order to 
 save time and labor in going to and from it. It should 
 also be sheltered from the north and west winds. Tlie 
 former are destructive to the blossoms in spring, and the 
 latter frequently blow off the fruit before its maturity. 
 In sections of the country subject to late spring frosts, an 
 elevated situation is to be preferred, as in the case of 
 orchards. A fidl eastern or southern aspect should be 
 avoided, because in them the sun's rays strike the trees 
 while the frost is upon them, and produce injuries that 
 would be avoided in other aspects. Where artificial 
 shelter is required, a belt of rapid-growing trees, com- 
 posed of evergreens and deciduous trees mixed, should be 
 planted on the exposed side, but at such a distance as to 
 obviate any difficulty that might arise from the injurious 
 effects of shade, or from the roots entering the garden. 
 Such a belt of trees might, at the same time, be made to 
 impart a pleasing and highly ornamental appearance to 
 the grounds. 
 
 2d. The Soil is a most important consideration. As in 
 a warden a ereneral collection of all the fruits is to be 
 grown, and that in the highest state of perfection, the soil 
 should be of that character in its texture, depth, and 
 quality, best adapted to general purposes. It should not 
 only be suitable for the apple and the pear, but for the 
 peach, the cherry, and the plum — a good, deep, friable 
 
THE FEUIT GARDEN. 181 
 
 loam, witli a gravelly clay subsoil, and entirely free from 
 stagnant moisture. In this country, our warm summers, 
 and frequent, protracted droughts, render a deep soil for a 
 garden absolutely necessary. Tioo feet is little enough, 
 and three would be still better. The means for deepening, 
 drying, improving, and changing the character of soils 
 have been already pointed out under the general head of 
 soils, and need not be repeated here. Suffice it to say, 
 that it will always be found true economy to be liberal in 
 the first preparation of the soil ; for after a garden is laid 
 out and permanently planted, improvements are always 
 made with greater difficulty and expense. 
 
 Enclosures, — ^The cheapest and most ordinary kind of 
 enclosure for gardens in this country, is the tight board 
 fence, and the picket or paling fence. The former should 
 be made of stout cedar posts, set at six feet apart, and 
 three or four feet in the ground, the ends being previously 
 charred to increase their durability, connected in the mid- 
 dle and on the top with cross-bars or rails which may be 
 two by four inches. The boards should be well seasoned, 
 matched, and securely nailed to the cross-bars. "Where the 
 fence is required to be higher than the posts, the boards 
 can extend above the top rail two, three, or even four 
 feet, if necessary. The picket or paling fence is made in 
 the same way, as far as the framework, posts, and cross- 
 bars go ; but, instead of matched boards, pickets, from 
 three to six inches wide, and pointed on the top, are used, 
 and a space of two inches left between each. Where the 
 proprietor can afford the expense of a brick or stone wall, 
 it will prove the most permanent, and, in the end, the 
 cheapest enclosure. The height of the fence or wall 
 depends somewhat on the extent of the garden. In ordi- 
 nary cases, eight or ten feet is the proper height, but when 
 the garden is very small, five or six feet is enough ; and 
 
182 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 the ojDen paling will be j)referable except on the north 
 side, to the tight board fence, as it offers less obstruction 
 to the air and light. A high fence around a very small 
 garden, besides being injurious to vegetation in it, looks 
 quite out of character, giving to it the appearance of a 
 huge box. Live hedges, as recommended for orchards, 
 might be employed around country gardens of considera- 
 ble extent, say an acre or u]3wards, but they require to be 
 kept in the neatest possible condition. 
 
 Trellises. — In England, and other parts of Europe, 
 where the summer temperature is not so high as it is here, 
 espalier trees are trained directly on the garden walls or 
 fence ; but our hot sun renders this unsafe, except in the 
 case of the grape, or on the north sides of the walls. The 
 sun strikes the south side of a fence with such force that 
 the foliage in contact with it is burned. It is therefore 
 necessary, where the walls or fences are to be occupied 
 with espaliers, to erect suitable trellises at the distance of 
 six to twelve inches from them, on which to train the trees ; 
 the form of these differs according to the nature of the sub- 
 ject to be trained. They are generally made of upright 
 and cross bars, of inch boards three inches wide, placed 
 within six to twelve inches of each other, according to the 
 growth of the species ; the larger the foliage and the 
 longer the shoots, the greater may be the distances ; thus, 
 the grape twelve inches, and the peach eight. Sometimes 
 they are constructed of wooden bars and wire rods alter- 
 nately ; these answer a good purpose for the grape, as it 
 fixes itself to the wires by the tendrils. The trellis is fast- 
 ened to the wall by iron hooks, and should stand a little 
 farther from it at the bottom than at the top, for the pur- 
 pose of giving the tree a better exposure to the sun, rain, 
 &c. Fruits are grown so successfully in this country in 
 the open ground that walls or trellises are seldom used, 
 
THE FRUIT GAEDEN. 188 
 
 excej^t to economize space. In the north, however, where 
 the more tender fruits do not succeed in the open ground, 
 w^alls may be advantageously employed, as the trees 
 trained on them are easily protected both from winter and 
 spring frosts. 
 
 Laying mit the Fruit Garden. — ^This is the arrange- 
 ment or distribution of the ground into suitable plots or 
 com23artments, necessary walks, etc. The mode of doing 
 this depends on the size of the garden, and the manner in 
 which it is to be planted. Fruit gardens, properly speak- 
 ing, are such as are wholly devoted to fruits ; but a very 
 common form, as has been already observed, is the mixed 
 garden, where a portion only is devoted to fruits, and 
 the remainder to culinary vegetables. We will first con- 
 sider 
 
 The Fruit Garden proper. — In all fruit gardens the 
 number of walks should be no greater than is absolutely 
 necessary for convenience. In small places the better 
 plan appears to be, to carry the principal walk around 
 the outside, leaving as much as possible of the interior, 
 where air and light are enjoyed to the greatest extent, for 
 the trees. A border should be left between the fence and 
 the walk, of sufficient width for the trees to be trained on 
 the fence trellis. If appearances were to be strictly ob- 
 served, this border should be as w^ide as the fence is high, 
 but as a general thing five to six feet will be sufficient ; 
 and where ground is limited, appearance must in many 
 cases be sacrificed to economy. Where the w^ork is all 
 performed by manual labor, the w^alks need not be more 
 than five to six feet wide, as that admits of the passage of 
 a wheelbarrow ; and this is all that is required. 
 
 Fig. 98 is a design for a very small garden fifty feet by 
 one hundred. A is the entrance gate, four feet wide ; 
 5, B., a walk five feet wide ; (?, C\ fence border, six feet 
 
184 
 
 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 w de. The rows of trees are eight feet apart. The py- 
 ramidal pears 
 and cherries, 
 ]S^s. 1, 2, 3, 
 and 4, at seven 
 feet a23art in 
 the row. l^os. 5 
 and 6, dwarf ap- 
 ples, at four feet 
 apart. 'No. 7, 
 pyramidal or 
 dwarf standard 
 plums, at seven 
 feet. ISTos. 8, 
 ^ 9, and 10, low 
 fa standard peach- 
 es, at ten feet 
 apart, the out- 
 side ones four 
 feet from the 
 walk. ISTos.ll, 
 12, 13, and 14, 
 low standard 
 quinces, etc. 
 JSTos. 15, 16, ir, 
 18, 19, and 20, 
 espaliers, apri- 
 cots, gra]3es,etc. 
 One border is 
 filled with gooseberries and currants, the other can be 
 occupied with raspberries and strawberries. This ar- 
 rangement gives in this little garden twenty pyramidal 
 trees, thirteen standards, twelve dwarfs, six espaliers, 
 besides space enough for two dozen currants, two dozen 
 gooseberries, two dozen raspberries, etc. For several years 
 
THE FRUIT GARDEN. 185 
 
 a few sti*awbemes and low vegetables, such as lettuce, 
 radishes, beets, carrots, turnips, or even dwarf peas, may 
 be grown in the spaces among the trees, but in no case to 
 be permitted nearer than within three feet of the tree. 
 
 A walk through the centre would be necessary, and 
 this should be ten feet wide, and there should be a turn- 
 ing place left at the end opposite the entrance. -> 
 
 The mixed^ or fruit and kitchen garden^ is laid out in a 
 similar manner ; the trees are planted in rows on a bor- 
 der six to ten feet wide, according to the size of the trees, 
 along the walks, leav^ing the interior of the compartments 
 for vegetables. This arrangement is a very common one, 
 and generally answers a very good purpose ; but where 
 it is practicable, it is much better to devote a separate jjor- 
 tion exclusively to fruit, in order that the one may not in 
 any way interfere with the other. In such a garden, the 
 number of the walks, and consequently fruit borders, 
 will depend upon the proportion of the ground intended 
 to be allotted to fniit, and this again will be regulated by 
 the means, tastes, and demands of the family. - 
 
 Fig. 99 (see frontispiece) is the ^^lan of a mixed fruit 
 and kitchen garden, one hundred and fifty feet wide by 
 two hundred long, being one hundred and ten square rods, 
 somewhat less than three quarters of an acre. The de- 
 sign is to have two tree borders exclusive of the outside 
 or fence border. Tlie centre main walk from A to C^ is 
 ten feet wide. That crossing it in the centre six feet 
 wide. The small walk next the fence border four feet 
 wide, and that between the two tree borders five feet. The 
 fence border is six feet wide, and may be planted with 
 espalier trees, vines, etc., besides currants, raspberries, 
 strawberries, or anything of low growth, not requiring the 
 fullest exposure. The tree borders are all eight feet wide, 
 except the dwarf apple border, which is only six. The 
 outside border is planted on the two sides with low stand- 
 
186 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 ard peaches, apricots, plums, quinces, etc., at twelve feet 
 apart, and the two ends with pyramids at eight feet. 
 
 The inside borders are planted with pyramids and 
 dwarfs, the former at eight, and the latter at six feet 
 apart. A, is the entrance ; jB, well or cistern ; C^ a space 
 to turn a horse and cart upon. This arrangement gives 
 thirty standard trees, eighty-three pyramids, and forty 
 dwarfs, leaving clear the outside border over six hundred 
 and sixty feet long and six wide, and the four interior 
 compartments each about thirty by sixty feet. In crop- 
 ping the latter with vegetables, they may be divided as 
 in the design into narrow beds three or four feet wide, 
 separated by paths eighteen inches wide. 
 
 WalJcs in the Fruit Garden. — ^The number of these, as 
 has been remarked, should be simply sufficient for con- 
 ducting the operations of gardening with convenience ; 
 this being jDrovided for, the fewer the better. Where 
 horse labor is employed, the main walk, either through 
 the centre or around the sides, should be nine or ten feet 
 wide. "Where manual labor alone is employed, as in 
 small gardens, five or six feet will be sufficient, and even 
 four feet, as that admits of the passage of a wheel-barrow. 
 Between each compartment, or line of trees, there should 
 also be a path two or three feet wide, as a passage for the 
 gardener or workmen, and others who may desire to 
 inspect the trees. Where the expense can be afforded, 
 the mains walk should be gravelled so as to be dry and 
 comfortable at all seasons and in every state of the wea- 
 ther ; for it is presumed that every man who has a fruit 
 garden, worthy of the name, will wish to visit it almost 
 daily, and so will the members of his family and his 
 friends who visit him. The labor and expense of making 
 a walk depends upon the nature of the soil. If dry, 
 w^ith a porous subsoil, absorbing water rapidly, six 
 inches of good pit gravel, slightly rounded on the t<^p. 
 
THE FRUIT GARDEN. 187 
 
 will be sufficient. If the soil be damp, and the subsoil 
 . compact, it will be necessary to remove the eai'th to the 
 depth of a foot in the centre, and rising towards the sides, 
 so that the excavation will resemble a semicircle ; this is 
 filled with small stones and a few inches of good pit gravel 
 on the top. This makes a walk dry at all times. We 
 often see very comfortable and neat looking walks, made 
 of spent bark from the tannery ; six inches deep of this 
 will last two or three years, and no excavation is neces- 
 sary in any kind of soil. It is not to be supposed that so 
 great expense will be incurred, in any case, in the forma- 
 tion of the walks of a fruit or kitchen garden, as those of 
 a pleasure ground or flower garden, and, therefore, it is 
 unnecessary to suggest either costly modes or materials. 
 The chief point is to secure dry, comfortable walking, 
 without introducing any material that will produce a 
 decidedly unpleasant contrast with vegetation. This can 
 all be accomplished by the cheap and simple means 
 referred to, and others that may suggest themselves. 
 
 The main walks alone should be gravelled ; the smaller 
 alleys or paths between the diiferent lines of trees or com- 
 partments of the garden are principally for the use of the 
 workmen. In very small gardens, where it is imjDortant 
 to economize the ground, the spaces devoted to the walks 
 may be of plank raised up on pillars or blocks a foot from 
 the ground ; the roots of trees can then j^enetrate the ground 
 below the walk as well as the border, and scarce any 
 ground will be lost. 
 
 Water. — A supply of water in the garden is a most 
 important consideration in our warm, dry, sunny climate. 
 Good crops of culinary vegetables cannot be secured in 
 many seasons without a liberal application of water, and 
 fruit trees are greatly benefited by frequent showering, 
 especially in dry weather. It refreshes them and drives 
 away insects. A good well or cistern should therefore 
 
188 PEKMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 be provided in every garden, and be situated as near the 
 centre as possible, to be convenient to all parts. 
 
 SELECTION OF TKEES. 
 
 1st. Tlieir Form. — We start npon tlie principle that, in 
 all cases, tall standard trees, siich as are usually planted 
 in orchards, are totally unfit for the garden. This is the 
 one great and universal defect in American fruit garden- 
 ing. The trees for a fruit garden should be all either 
 dwarf standards., with trunks two to three feet high, 
 pyramids^ branched from the ground, or hushes with 
 stems six to twelve inches high. Trees in these forms 
 are, in the first place, in keeping with the limited extent 
 of the garden, and convey at first sight the idea of fitness. 
 In the second j^lace, they give a great variety on a small 
 space, for three or four such trees will not occupy more 
 space than one standard. In the third place, they are in 
 a convenient form for management, they are easily pruned 
 or protected, and the fruit is easily gathered and less 
 likely to be blown off than on tall trees. In the fourth 
 place, they bear several years sooner than standards, 
 especially pears and apples. 
 
 Among the forms mentioned, the pyramid is certainly 
 the most l)eautiful ; and in the best fruit gardening 
 regions of Europe, where almost every conceivable forai 
 of tree has been tried, it is to-day the most popular, 
 because it has proved the most advantageous and success- 
 ful. The ajjple for pyramids should be on the Doucain 
 stock. Certain varieties, such as the Hav^thorndean^ Kes- 
 wich Codlin^ Summer Rose., Duchess of Oldenhurg., and 
 many other moderate growers and early bearers, will 
 make good pyramids on free stocks, but they will require 
 more summer pruning and careful management to keep 
 their vigor under check than they would on the Doucain. 
 
THE FKUIT GAUDEN. 
 
 189 
 
 But apples for the fruit garden, even on tlie Doucaiii, 
 should be such as naturally make small trees and are 
 inclined to early bearing. In these respects it is very 
 well known there is a wdde difference between varieties. 
 Those mentioned above, and others similar in character, 
 frequently bear, on free stocks in the nursery rows, at the 
 age of three or four years from the bud, whilst others do 
 not bear until eight or ten years old. This is a point that 
 should always be looked into in selecting garden trees, for 
 it is the natural and proper desire of every one who 
 jjlants a tree in the garden to obtain fruit from it as early 
 as possible. 
 
 The Apjple for Dwarfs. — The apple, Avorked on the 
 paradise, makes a beautiful little dwarf bush. We know 
 of nothing more interesting in the fruit garden than a row, 
 or a little square, of these miniature apple trees (fig. 100), 
 either in blossom or in 
 fruit. Those who have 
 not seen them, may 
 imagine an apple tree, 
 four feet high, and the 
 same in width, of 
 branches covered with 
 blossoms in the spring, 
 or loaded with magni- 
 ficent golden and crim- 
 son fruit in the autumn. 
 They begin to bear the 
 third year from the bud, 
 and the same variety is 
 always larger and finer 
 on them than on standards. We had Red Astracans on 
 paradise the past season, that measured eleven inches in 
 circumference. The French plant a square or compart- 
 ment of these in the kitchen or fruit garden, as they do 
 
 Fig. 109. 
 Dwarf apple tree. 
 
190 
 
 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 gooseberries and currants, six feet apart, and call it the 
 -' Normandie; they also alternate them with pyramidal 
 pear trees in rows ; and in some of the best mixed kitchen 
 and fruit gardens, two dwarf apples are planted between 
 two pyramidal pears, thus giving double the number of 
 them as of the pears in a border or row. In small gar- 
 dens the apple should not be admitted under any other 
 form, and even to a limited extent in that, for it is the 
 great fruit of the orchard^ and in nearly all parts of this 
 country they are extensively grown, and can be purchased 
 at very moderate rates. 
 
 The Pear^ as a Pyramid (fig. 101). — The pear is emi- 
 nently the tree for 
 the pyramidal form, 
 either on the free 
 stock, or on the 
 quince ; on the latter, 
 however, the trees 
 bear much earlier, 
 are more prolific, 
 more manageable, 
 and consequently 
 preferable for small 
 gardens. On the pear 
 stock they require 
 constant summer 
 pruning and pinch- 
 ing, and in some 
 cases, root pruning, 
 to subdue the natu- 
 ral vigor, and induce 
 early fruitfulness. 
 Certain varieties, 
 however, do not suc- 
 ceed on the quince. 
 
 Fig. 101. 
 ryramidal pear tree, 7 feet high— 4 feet wide at the 
 
THE FRUIT GARDEN. 191 
 
 but the majority of melting varieties do, and produce larger 
 and finer fruit on it than on the free stock. The tardiness 
 of bearing of the pear tree, when grown in the ordinary 
 standard form on jDear stock, has, more than any other 
 cause, retarded its general cultivation. I^o better proof 
 of this can be adduced than the general partiality now 
 shown for trees on quince stocks, that bear at the age of 
 three or four years. The introduction of these trees, a 
 few years ago, was really the first thing that gave a general 
 imj^ulse to pear tree planting. With most people, it is a 
 very important thing to obtain fruit in two or three years, 
 instead of Vv^ aiting eight or ten. The best management of 
 trees on free stocks, cannot bring them into a bearing state 
 short of six or seven years, unless it be some remarkably 
 precocious variety. People, therefore, who wish pear 
 trees for pyramids that are easily managed, and will bear 
 early, will select them on quince stocks, in case the va- 
 rieties they wish to cultivate have been ^^roved to succeed 
 well on it. 
 
 The Pear in the chuarf standard form^ as in the 
 pyi-amidal, is much easier managed, and bears much 
 earlier on the quince than on the pear; indeed, these trees 
 are as easily managed as a standard apple tree. There 
 are some dwarf standards on the quince in our grounds 
 here, and in gardens in this city, that are now eight years 
 old, and about seven to eight feet high, with trunks from 
 two to three feet, heads four to five feet high, and three 
 or four feet in width, that have borne regular and heavy 
 crops for the last four or five years, without any other care 
 than thinning out superfluous wood. The Cherry is as 
 easily managed in the p^a^amidal form as the pear, not 
 only the free-growing sorts, Hearts and Bigarreaus^ but 
 the Diikes and MoreUos ; the latter, however, are less 
 vigorous, and more easily managed. All should be 
 
 worked on the niahaleh stock ; this has the same effect on 
 
192 
 
 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 tlie clieriy, to a certain extent, as the quince has on the 
 pear. After the second or thiid year's growth, it subdues 
 their vigor, and induces fruitfulness. We have a collec- 
 tion of upwards of thirty varieties, of four to five years 
 old, that are now fine pyramids, from five to eight feet 
 high, and they have all borne since the third year, and we 
 find them quite as easily managed as the pear. The 
 Dukes and Morellos should be chosen, where very small 
 trees are desir- 
 able, as they can 
 be grown in 
 bushes like the 
 apple on the pa- 
 radise stock, at 
 five feet apart. 
 
 Fig. 102 is 
 the portrait of a 
 dwarf Florence 
 cherry tree, 
 
 given by Mr. 
 Rivers, in his 
 Miniature Fruit 
 Garden, only 
 two years old, 
 bearing fruit. 
 Our dwarfs fre- 
 quently bear the 
 third year. 
 
 Tlie Plum as a Pyramid. — ^The plum has rarely been 
 cultivated as a pyramid, but recent experiments prove 
 that it is 'quite suscej)tible of that form under proper 
 management. It should be worked on a stock calculated 
 to subdue its natural vigor. The native or Canada plum 
 answers a good purpose, the mirobalalan or cherry plum, 
 
 Fig. 102. 
 Dwarf cherry, two years from bud, bearing. 
 
THE FRUIT GARDEN. 193 
 
 and the sloe (pruniis spinosa) dwarf it, to a still greater 
 extent. Snmmer pruning and pinching, as well as occa- 
 sional root ]>runi ng, are all necessary to check the vigor 
 of most kinds, and keep them in suitable dimensions for 
 small gardens where it is necessary to plant them close. 
 
 The Plum as a Dvxtrf Standard. — Besides the pyra- 
 mid, this is the only form in which the plum should be 
 admitted in the garden. The dwarf standard, with a 
 trunk two or three feet in height, and a symmetrical 
 round head, is a very pretty and appropriate form, and 
 requires less skill and care in the management than the 
 pyramid, and by proper management the trees require 
 but little if any more space. 
 
 The Peach. — The best garden form for the peach is 
 that of the dioarf standard^ with a trunk eighteen inches 
 to two feet. AVith proper management, which will here- 
 after be described, this form is easily conducted, even 
 when the trees are on peach stocks. The plum stock, and 
 especially the sorts recommended for dwarf plums, gives 
 trees that are less vigorous and more easily kej)t in a 
 small space. In nearly all parts of our country the 
 fruit ripens perfectly in the open ground, so that espalier 
 training, as has been remarked, is seldom practised, 
 unless to save ground ; or in northern localities, Avhere 
 protection of the buds during winter, or of the blossoms 
 in the spring, is necessary. In such cases alone are 
 espaliers to be recommended, as they require much greater 
 care in pruning and training than in any other form. 
 Espalier trees are of various forms, but the fan., as it is 
 termed, is the best adapted to the peach. It consists of 
 two main branches or divisions of the stem, S23read out in 
 the form of a Y ; each of these bears a certain number, 
 as many as may be necessary to fill the trellis, of second- 
 ary branches, and these fm'nish the bearing wood. The 
 9 
 
194 PEEMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 production and management of this and other espalier 
 forms, will be treated fully under the head of pruning 
 and training. 
 
 The Ajpricot and Nectarine. — The remarks applied to 
 the peach apply with equal force to both these trees ; they 
 succeed equally well as low standards, or as espaliers. 
 The apricot is more generally grown in this form than 
 any other tree, because its early blossoms are so easily 
 protected, and the curculio does not appear to be so 
 troublesome to it as in the standard form. 
 
 The Quince., in the garden, should either be a dwarf 
 bush, with a stem twelve to eighteen inches high, and a 
 compact, symmetrical head, or a pyramid. In the latter 
 form it is quite easily conducted, but requires more care, 
 of course, than as a bush, as the upper part of the tree 
 must be always kept subordinate to the lower, and this 
 requires a regular and constant attention. 
 
 The Filhert. — ^The remarks on the quince may be 
 applied with equal propriety to the filbert, as regards 
 form. The lush branched from the ground, and the low 
 standards with two feet stems, are the ordinary forms ; 
 but in some of the French gardens it is conducted with 
 great success as a pyi-amid. 
 
 These are the principal trees of which it is necessary 
 to speak in regard to form. Other species will be referred 
 to under the head of pruning. Having now pointed out 
 the most eligible forms for garden trees, and their respec- 
 tive advantages, planters will be able to make a choice 
 adapted to their tastes and circumstances. Those who do 
 not employ a professional gardener, and who have but a 
 small portion of spare time to devote to their garden, 
 should by all means adopt such forms for their trees as 
 require the least skill and labor, provided always that it 
 be appropriate to the size of the garden, and consistent 
 with good management. 
 
THE FEUIT GARDEN. 195 
 
 The next point to be considered is, 
 
 The Age of the Ti?w5.— Tliis will depend very mncli on cir- 
 cumstances. For pyramidal trees it is jet difficult, almost 
 impossible, to obtain in the nurseries specimens of more 
 than one year's growth that are suitable. The yearlin2:s 
 are never sufficiently cut back, nor the branches of the 
 second and third year so managed as to have the requisite 
 proportion of length and vigor to fit them for being mould- 
 ed, with any ordinary treatment, into a perfectly pyramidal 
 form. If suitaljle trees cannot be found of two or three 
 years from the bud or graft, vigorous yearlings, worked 
 at the ground, should be chosen, as they are in a condition 
 to take easily any required form ; and though fruit may 
 not be so soon obtained from them, yet they will in the 
 end be much more satisfactory ; for, unless a right begin- 
 ning be made in the training of a tree in any form more 
 or less artificial, no art can afterwards completely correct 
 the errors. If we take a two or three year old tree, man- 
 aged in the nursery, as usual, with a naked trunk two to 
 two aiid a half feet from the ground, and a branching 
 head, or what is nearly as bad, a few weak side branches 
 below, overrun with strong ones above, the most severe 
 process wnll be necessary, in order to produce lateral 
 branches in the proper place ; and thus, as mucli time 
 will be lost as would bring forward a yearling, and the 
 tree will not be so perfectly formed, so healthy, nor in any 
 respect so satisfactory. The general impatience that exists 
 in regard to the growth and bearing of trees is the great 
 cause of this defective character w^hen taken from the nur- 
 sery. The nurseryman is averse to cutting back his trees, 
 as they lose a year in height, and planters or purchasers 
 are not generally discriminating enough to be willing to 
 pay him a proportionate price. He finds tall trees more 
 attractive. AV^hen planters do get these trees, they cannot 
 be persuaded to cut them down ; they wish to obtain 
 
196 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 fruit as soon as possible, and therefore the tree is allowed 
 to proceed in the defective form it assumed at the mir- 
 sery. 
 
 For Dwarfs and Dwarf Standards^ it is less difficult to 
 obtain the right sort of trees, for this is the form that nur- 
 serj trees that have not been cut back, ordinarily assume. 
 Those, therefore, who prefer such trees can alw^aysbe sup- 
 plied with them well advanced, even in a bearing state if 
 so desired. As in the pyramid, however, persons who 
 intend to make models of their trees, will do well to pro- 
 cure yearlings worked at the surface of the ground, for on 
 them heads or lateral branches can be formed without any 
 difficulty at any desired 2:)oint betw^een the collar and ter- 
 minal bud. Another consideration is w^orthy of note on 
 this point. There is a much greater risk in removing 
 three or four year old trees than yearlings, and they are 
 more difficult and expensive to pack and transport. The 
 yearling is easily removed and easily transported, and its 
 growth is comparatively unaffected by the change. The 
 gardeners most famous for their handsome, well managed 
 fruit trees, invariably select yearling trees, that is, trees 
 that have made one year's growth from the bud or graft. 
 
 Selection of Yarieties. — The selection of varieties of 
 fruits for a fruit garden should be made in view of all the 
 circumstances that can affect tlieir usefulness. They 
 should be adapted to the soil, and more particularly to the 
 climate. It is w^ell known that in every section of the 
 country, certain varieties seem to succeed remarkably 
 well, whilst others, of the greatest excellence elsewdiere, 
 entirely fail. Our country is so extensive and embraces 
 such a variety of climate that it is impossible that the 
 same varieties should succeed equally w^ell in all parts ; 
 and planters should consider this well. Those who have 
 had no experience in cultivation, nor a proper opportunity 
 for acquiring knowledge on this point, should consult otli- 
 
THE FRUIT GARDEN. 197 
 
 ers. Any intelligent nurseryman who has a correspond- 
 ence with all parts of the country, and is thoroughly alive 
 to all the branches of his profession, and the results of 
 experience, can aid planters greatly in making appropriate 
 selections. It is true that the amount of knowledge col- 
 lected on this head is yet comparatively small, and quite 
 insufficient for a general guide, but it is every day accu- 
 mulating, and what there may be, is well woi-thy of atten- 
 tion. The experience of fruit growers, as elicited at recent 
 pomological conventions, has brought to light a multitude 
 of highly important facts, bearing on this very point. 
 These will be more particularly noted when we come to 
 the description of fruits. 
 
 Yarieties should he adapted hi their growth to tJieform 
 tJiey are to be grown in, and to the extent of the Garden. — 
 For pyi-amidal trees, varieties should be chosen whose 
 habits of growth are regular or slightly spreading, the 
 branches assuming more of the horizontal than the 
 uj^right, and those disposed to branch low down should be 
 l^referred to those of an opposite habit. "Where the gar- 
 den is small, moderate or slow growers should be pre- 
 ferred to rapid and vigorous growers. They should also be 
 well adapted to the stock on which they are worked. This 
 is a very important point, but one on which only a few 
 persons in this country have yet acquired any considera- 
 ble amount of actual experience. Still, many important 
 facts have been gathered, and it becomes every planter to 
 avail himself of them. If he plants pears on quince stocks, 
 for instance, it is important to know that certain varieties 
 are much better on that stock than they are on the pear ; 
 and that others fail, and are worthless on it. 
 
 The varieties should he adapted to the wants and wishes 
 of the planter. — Those who plant fruit gardens have not 
 all the same objects in view. One man plants his garden 
 for profit, to supply his family with good fruits. This is 
 
198 PEEMANENT PLAJ^TATIONS. 
 
 his main purpose. He should, therefore, select the A-ery 
 best varieties, considering not the quality alone, but their 
 productiveness and other useful properties. Such a per- 
 son has no desire for a large collection, but looks merely 
 for an assortment that will yield a succession of ripe fruits 
 during the season. Another who regards the mere value 
 of the fruit less than amusement, recreation, and exj^eri- 
 ment, will make his collection as varied as possible. 
 Where any particular class of fruits can be had very 
 cheap in market, it should be planted sparingly in the 
 garden, so that such as may be scarce or dear can be 
 grown in larger quantities. It is only by taking all these 
 into account, that planters can hope to make their fruit 
 garden answer their particular views and purposes. 
 
 The planting of a fruit garden should be considered as 
 of equal importance, as far as the doing of it well is con- 
 cerned, wdth the building of a dwelling. This is constructed 
 with a view to the convenience of the family, and is, 
 therefore, in all its parts, supposed to be adapted to their 
 w^ants and mode of living. The fruit garden is intended, 
 also, to promote the comfort and convenience of the 
 family, and should, like the dwelling, in all respects be 
 as nearly as possible adapted to their wants and circum- 
 stances. Having now treated of the soil, enclosures, 
 trellises, w^alks, arrangement, selection of trees and varie- 
 ties, we proceed to the taking up of the trees and plant- 
 ing. 
 
 Taking uj[> tlie Trees. — ^This has already been de- 
 scribed under the head of nursery operations, to which the 
 reader is referred. 
 
 Planting has been described under the head of jplant- 
 ing tlie orchard ; and the operation being the same in 
 both cases, it need not be repeated. 
 
 Tlie arrangement of tlie trees ^ however, is different, 
 and this point requires a special notice. 
 
THE FRUIT GARDEN. 199 
 
 1st. In regard to position. — Each class of trees, siicli as 
 pears, apples, cherries, etc., should he planted together in 
 the same rows or division, and if any difference exist on 
 the soil, each should be planted in that best adapted to it. 
 Thus, plums should have that most inclined to clay ; i:)ears 
 and apples, the deepest and richest ; cherries, peaches, 
 apricots, etc., the dryest and lightest. 
 
 Where the garden is large, the pyramids should be in 
 one compartment, the dwarf standards in another, and 
 the dwarf bushes in another ; but where it is necessary 
 to economize and fill the ground to the best advantage, 
 the dwarf bushes may alternate advantageously w^ith the 
 pyramids or dwarf standards, and this especially along 
 the walk borders. Varieties, too, of the same, or similar 
 habits of growth, should, if possible, be together. The 
 espalier trees should be placed so that the earliest blos- 
 sonung kinds, such as the apricots, will be most secure 
 from the influence of sj^ring frosts "where these prevail. 
 The trellis facing the north will be the best for this j)m'- 
 pose ; but where it is intended to protect them, the as23ect 
 is of little account. In the north aspect, fruits are very 
 much retarded in their ripening ; and this circumstance 
 may be turned to a good account to prolong the season 
 of some late cherries, currants, etc. We have seen fine 
 JMorellos in perfection on a north w^all here, in the month 
 of September. 
 
 The distance at wliich trees shoidd he planted in tlie 
 garden. — This w^ill not be the same in all cases ; for in a 
 large garden it is not necessary to plant so close as \\\ a 
 very small one, and in a very rich and deep soil, a 
 greater distance will be required than in a dry and light 
 soil. There is also a great difference in the growth of 
 varieties. Some might be planted at six feet apart, and 
 have as much space in pro23ortion as others would at 
 eight. Thi.s shows that no rule, as regards distance, can 
 
200 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 be observed in all cases, and this particularly in small gar- 
 dens, where advantage should be taken of every circnm- 
 stance. In large gardens an uniform distance may be 
 adopted, even if some space be sacrificed. The following 
 distances may serve as a general guide, and may be in- 
 creased or diminished according to circumstances : 
 
 DISTANCES IN THE OPEN GKOUND. 
 
 Apples. — Pyramids on free stock, ten feet apart ; do., on 
 
 Doucain, eight feet apart ; do., dwarf standards on 
 
 Doucain, eight feet apart ; do., dwarf bushes on 
 
 paradise, five to six feet apart. 
 Pears. — Pyramids on free stocks, ten to twelve feet apart ; 
 
 do., on quince, six feet apart ; do., dwarf standards on 
 
 quince, six to eight feet apart. 
 Plums. — Dwarf standards, eight to ten feet aj^art ; do., 
 
 l^yramids, eight to ten feet apart. 
 Clierries. — Pyramids, hearts, and bigarreaus, eight to ten 
 
 feet apart ; do., dukes and morellos, six to eight feet 
 
 aj)art ; do., dwarf bushes of morellos, five to six feet 
 
 apart. 
 Apricots. — Dwarf standard on plum, eight to ten feet 
 
 apart ; do., pyramids, six to eight feet apart. 
 Peaclies. — Low standards on peach, ten to twelve feet 
 
 apart ; do., on plum, eight to ten feet. 
 Nectarines. — Same as peaches. 
 
 Quinces. — Pyramids or bushes, six to eight feet apart. 
 Filherts^ do., six to eight feet apart. 
 Gooseberries and Currants., four to five feet apart. 
 Raspberries., two to three feet apart. 
 
 Mr. Eivers gives the following distances in his " Minia- 
 ture Fruit Garden." 
 
THE FItUIT GARDEN. 201 
 
 Pyramidal Pear Trees^ on quince stocks, root pnincd for 
 small gardens, four feet apart. Tlie same, in larger 
 gardens, not root pruned, six feet apart. 
 
 Pyramidal Pear Trees^ on the pear stock, root pruned, 
 six feet a2>art. The same roots, not pruned, eight to 
 ten feet — the latter if the soil be very rich. 
 
 Horizontal Espalier Pear Trees^ on the quince stock for 
 rails or walls, fifteen feet apart. 
 
 Uprifjht Espaliers^ on the quince stock for rails or walls, 
 four to six feet apart. 
 
 Jloi-'izontal EHpaliers^ on the pear stock for rails or walls, 
 twenty to twenty-four feet apart. 
 
 Pyramidal Plum^ Trees^ six feet apart. 
 
 E-Hpalier Plurro Trees^ twenty feet apart. 
 
 J*yramidal Ajr/ple Trees^ on the paradise stock, root- 
 pruned for small gardens, four feet apart. The same 
 roots not y^runed, six feet apart. 
 
 Eajjalier Aj/ple Trees^ on the paradise stock, fifteen feet 
 apart. The same, on the crab stock, twenty to 
 twenty-four feet apart. 
 
 Peaches and Nectarines for walls, twenty feet apart. 
 
 Apricots for walls, twenty-four feet apart. 
 
 Cherries^ as bushes on the mahaleb stock, roots pruned for 
 small gardens, four feet apart. The same, roots not 
 pruned, six feet aj^art. 
 
 Espalier Cherry Trees^ on the mahaleb, for rails or walls, 
 twelve to fifteen feet apart. 
 
 DISTANCE FOR ESPALIER TREES ON WALLS OR TRELLLSES. 
 
 The distances between espalier trees must be regulated 
 not only by the growth of the species and variety, but by 
 the height of the wall or trellis. If these be low, a 
 greater length, of course, will be necessary than if high ; 
 for every tree must have a certain extent of surface to be 
 spread upon. Hence, if a trellis be only eight feet high, 
 9^- 
 
202 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 
 
 nearly double the length, and, consequently, double the 
 distance between the trees will be required that would be 
 on a trellis fifteen or sixteen feet high. As a general 
 thing, ])eaches^ apricots^ or nectarines^ on walls or trellisee 
 eight or ten feet high, should be fifteen to twenty feet 
 apart, if on free stocks, and twelve to fifteen if dwarfed 
 on the plum. Cherries^ ten to twelve feet. Our native 
 grapes^ Isabella^ Cataiula^ etc., at least thirty feet apart, 
 on an eight feet high trellis, as their rapid growth covers 
 a great space in a short time. Foreign varieties will not 
 require half this ; indeed, the better way is, to keep 
 these trained to simple stakes, and planted in the border, 
 where their out-door culture is attempted. In this way 
 they are easily laid down and protected. 
 
CHAPTEE II. 
 
 PRUI^INa APPLIED TO THE DIFFEKENT SPECEES OF 
 
 fruit trees under different forms. 
 Section 1. — Pruning the Apple and the Peak. 
 
 These two trees belong to the same natural order, jpo- 
 7nace(B^ and to the same genus jpyvus ; their habits of 
 growth and bearing are similar, and they may therefore 
 be treated as regards their pruning, under the same 
 head. 
 
 If we take for example a shoot of last season (fig. 6), we 
 find it in the spring, before vegetation commences, fur- 
 nished on all its length with w^ood buds ; w^hen growth 
 commences, the terminal bud, and probably two or three 
 of the others nearest to it, produce shoots, the others to- 
 w^ards the middle produce small shoots that are in subse- 
 quent years transformed into fruit branches (like fig. 10). 
 Some do not push at all, but are converted into fruit 
 buds (as in figs. 7 and 8), Tvhilst those at the base gene- 
 rally remain dormant, until excited into growth by close 
 pruning. All the buds on these trees have small incon- 
 spicuous buds at their base, which are capable of produc- 
 ing shoots when the principal bud is destroyed or injm-ed, 
 and these buds render the fruit spurs so enduring. In 
 young trees the fruit buds are many years in process of 
 formation, and in bearing trees three to four years, accord- 
 
204 PEUNING. 
 
 ing to circnmstances. "When the trees are not subjected 
 to pruning, the result of the mode of growth described is, 
 that the terminal buds grow and form one section upon 
 another, leaving the lower parts mainly destitute of bear- 
 ing w^ood, unless it be an occasional spur, the sap always 
 tending to the points. 
 
 1st. Standards. — The management of this form of trees 
 has been fully treated of in all our works on fruit culture, 
 and in all the agricultural and horticultural journals, so 
 that now it is pretty well understood, and especially by 
 those who give considerable attention to the subject of 
 fruit trees ; it will not be necessary therefore to enter upon 
 much detail in regard to it. 
 
 A standard apple or pear tree for the orchard, when 
 taken from the nursery to be finally planted out, we will 
 suppose to have a straight, stout trunk, four to six feet 
 in height, as the case may be, and a head composed of a 
 certain number of shoots or branches, but generally shoots 
 of one year's growth. At the time of planting, three or 
 four of these shoots should be selected to form the main 
 branches, or frame-work, on which to build the whole 
 head, and the remainder cut clean out; those reserved 
 should be cut back full one-half, and from the shoots pro- 
 duced on these at and below the cut, two of the strongest 
 are selected each on opposite sides, and the others are 
 rubbed off while they are soft. In selecting these shoots, 
 care must be taken to have them equally distant from one 
 another, and j)ointing in such directions as not to cross or 
 interfere. 
 
 During the first season these young shoots must be 
 watched and kept in a regular state of vigor. If any 
 threaten to become too vigorous, they must be pinched 
 and checked at once, so that perfect uniformity be pre- 
 served. This is the time to secure a well formed and 
 nicely balanced head. A very slight circumstance some- 
 
THE APPLE AND THE PEAR. 
 
 205 
 
 times throws the growth into one side or one branch of a 
 young tree, and produces a deformitj from which it never 
 recovers. The trunk must be kept clear of all shoots, by 
 rubbing off such as appear at the earliest possible moment, 
 when it can be done without the use of a knife. Sujipos- 
 ing we commenced the head with three branches at time 
 of planting, there w411 be at the end of the first season, six. 
 
 The attention required after this will be to maintain an 
 uniform growth among these six branches, and their mem- 
 bers and divisions, and to prevent the growth of shoots in 
 the centi-e. The leading defect in all our orchard trees is 
 too much icood^ the heads are kept so dense wdth small 
 shoots that the sun and air are in a great measure ex- 
 cluded, and the fruit on the outside of the tree only is 
 marketable or fit for use. The head should be kept open, 
 rather in the form of a vase, so that the wood, leaves, 
 blossoms and fruit may all, on every part, enjoy the full 
 benefit of the sun and air, without which they cannot per- 
 form their functions, or maintain maturity and perfection. 
 
 Too many people imagine that trees 
 can take care of themselves, as trees in 
 the forest, on the ground that nature 
 preserves a balance in all her w^orks ; but 
 it should be borne in mind that a fruit " 
 tree is not. exactly a natural production. 
 It is far removed from the natural state 
 by culture, and the farther it is removed, 
 that is, the more its nature is refined 
 and improved, the more care it requires. 
 Fig. 103 represents a young standard 
 pear tree, stem four feet high, and the 
 head twice cut back, as at the letters a ^'°' ^^^' 
 
 -t -J A young standard pear 
 
 ^^^'- ^- tree, trunk 4 feet high, 
 
 Pincliing .—li this be properly at- ^^^^^ ^or^i^d on three main 
 
 , 1 -I . T', 1 1 .r« • 'n branches, twice pruned as 
 
 tended to, very little kjiile prunmg will at a and b 
 
206 PEUNING. 
 
 be necessary, except to shorten the leading shoots, because 
 as soon as a superfluous or misplaced shoot appears, it is 
 rubbed off, and when one becomes too vigorous, it is 
 pinched and checked ; the great advantage of pinching is, 
 that 1st., It economizes the sap of the tree. That which 
 would be expended on superfluous shoots is turned to the 
 benefit of the parts reserved, and thus the growth is greatly- 
 promoted. 
 
 2d. All wounds necessarily inflicted, w^here knife prun- 
 ing is depended on, are completely avoided. These facts 
 should be remembered. Standard apples and pears are 
 not generally 23runed with a view to hastening their bear- 
 ing, but are allowed to arrive at that state in their natu- 
 ral way. In the case of tardy bearing sorts, however, it 
 may be desirable to apply artificial means, and these will 
 be pointed out in treating of dwarfs and pyramids 
 hereafter. 
 
 Dwarf Standards. — ^These are similar to standards, 
 except that the trunks are low, not over two or three feet 
 in height, and the head is retained in a smaller space. 
 Their management is always much easier when the stocks 
 are such as to dwarf or restrain the growth. Thus, 
 apples on the paradise or Doucain., and pears on the 
 quince. The main branches or frame-work of the head, 
 are produced by cutting back the three or four branches 
 that form the head of the tree as it comes from the 
 nursery, in the same manner as recommended for stand- 
 ards. 
 
 The first season^ all superfluous productions are rubbed 
 off, and a balance maintained among the shoots by pinch- 
 ing. 
 
 The second year^ in the winter or spring, the shoots of 
 last season are shortened, say one half, as a general thing. 
 This induces the development of the buds on their whole 
 parts. The cut is made at a good, plump bud, capable 
 
THE APPLE AND THE PEAR. 207 
 
 of producing a vigorous shoot ; and this is selected to 
 prolong the branch. If one or two secondary branches 
 are needed to iill up a space, those next the leader, if 
 properly situated to fill the s]3ace, are chosen, and all be- 
 low them are pinched w^hen about two or three inches 
 long, in order to check the production of wood where it 
 is not wanted, and to convert them into fruit branches or 
 spurs. The growth of all the main and secondary 
 branches is regulated and balanced by pinching ; and if 
 the pinched shoots intended for fruit spurs start again 
 into growth, they must be again pinched. 
 
 The tMrd season the shoots of the previous year are cut 
 back as before, say to four, five, or six eyes, according to 
 their strength. One shoot is chosen to continue the pro- 
 longment of the branch, and the others are pinched in 
 season to convert them into fruit spurs. Thus the tree is 
 conducted from year to year, until it has attained the full 
 size required. In this way the trees commence bearing 
 quite young, and every branch is furnished in all its 
 length with fruit spurs. 
 
 Pyramids. — Under the head of " the selection of 
 trees," it has been recommended to obtain thrifty year- 
 ling trees in preference to older ones not properly man- 
 aged. We will, therefore, begin with the yearling tree, 
 and although the management of this the first year after 
 cutting back has been given in the nursery, it may be 
 well to repeat it here, to save the reader the trouble of 
 referrino; back. 
 
 Objects of cutting laclc. — ^The object in doing this is to 
 produce branches near the stock that will form the base 
 of the future pyramid. If left entire, the tendency of 
 the sap to the extremities would produce shoots there 
 only, leaving a naked space entirely inconsistent with the 
 form in view. We, therefore, reduce the stem to such an 
 extent, that but a small number of buds is left on it, 
 
208 PEUNING. 
 
 and the sap acting on these with great force causes their 
 development. 
 
 How far to cut tack. — It is obvious that this must de- 
 pend on the character of the subject. In yearling plants, 
 both of the pear and a23ple, there is presented a great 
 difference in different varieties. Some invariably pro- 
 duce lateral branches the first season. The buds are so 
 perfectly developed, that when the second growth takes 
 place in midsummer, they break and form branches, in 
 some cases as much as a foot long, and in others only a 
 few inches. Then among the varieties which do not thus 
 produce side branches in the second growth, there is a 
 great difference in the plumpness and prominence of the 
 buds. In some they are larger, and stand out boldly 
 from the wood on the whole length of the stem, appa- 
 rently ready to push under the least excitement. In 
 others they are small, lie flat to the wood, and have 
 every appearance of being difficult to excite into growth, 
 and especially those towards the base. It should always 
 be borne in mind that it is better to cut too low than not 
 low enough. The difficulty of cutting too low is, that the 
 shoots produced are nearly all of equal length, and a 
 certain number of them require to be checked to give 
 each one its proper dimensions. The difficulty of not 
 cutting low enough is, that wliere we should have 
 branches at the base w^e have none, or, if any, they are 
 smaller, instead of larger, than those above them. The 
 remedy in this case is more difficult than the other. The 
 vigorous shoots at the summit must be checked, and 
 even the leading shoot, in order to throw back the sap 
 into the lower j)arts to act upon the buds there. The 
 error w^hich produces such a difficulty, is very common, 
 as we know by experience, amongst persons not familiar 
 wdth the growth of young trees or the development of 
 the buds on their stems. It must be laid down as a 
 
THE APPLE AND THE PEAR. 
 
 209 
 
 general rule, tliat the more feeUe the plant^ and the 
 smaller and the more hnjperfectly developed the huds^ the 
 lower it is necessary to cut. 
 
 The condition of the roots, too, must be taken into 
 account ; for where the roots are weak, broken, or injured, 
 and consequently unfit to yield to the stem any considera- 
 ble amount of nutriment, the buds will break with less 
 force, and a more severe retrenchment will be necessary. 
 All these circumstances must be considered. 
 For example, we will take a young pear tree 
 of one year's growth from the bud, without 
 branches (fig. 104), which we will suppose to 
 be four feet, which is the ordinary average 
 height of yearlings. If the buds are full and 
 prominent on it, we cut to a good bud at 
 twenty inches from the stock ; but if the buds 
 are less prominent, cut to fifteen or eighteen 
 inches, and if very feeble, with small buds, 
 cut to within twelve inches, or five or six 
 buds of the stock. If the roots have been Fig. i04. 
 injured much, and the stem somewhat dried '^ yearling pear 
 
 '' . n T . , T tree without bran- 
 
 or shrivelled, it should be cut to within three ches. The cross- 
 or four buds of the base. These different I'"" '''^''^''' "^^ 
 
 first pruning or 
 
 cases are mentioned because it frequently cutting back. 
 happens that persons who live at a great distance from 
 nurseries, find their trees frequently, on their arrival, in 
 the condition described, and it is necessary that a course 
 of treatment for them should be indicated. The bud cut 
 to, should, if possible, be one of the best on the stem, and 
 be on the side of the tree opposite that in which the bud 
 was inserted, so as to continue the stem in a straight line. 
 It is a great advantage to have a tree well established 
 in the ground, before cutting it back to produce the first 
 bi'anches to form the pyramid ; because, in that condition, 
 it is capable of producing vigorous shoots the first season. 
 
210 PRUNING. 
 
 It is on this account that a young tree, cut back in the nur- 
 sery, presents a much more perfect form at the end of tlie 
 second year, than those that have been transplanted. 
 Some of the French cultivators advise to defer the cutting 
 back for the formation of the permanent branches, till the 
 plant has stood one year after transplanting; but the course 
 is attended with many difficulties, and on the whole it is 
 better to cut back when the tree is planted, even if we 
 obtain but a moderate grow^th, for the older the buds are 
 on the lower parts of the tree, the more obstinate and 
 unmanageable they are. 
 
 Pruning the Branched Yearling. — Among trees of this 
 kind, some have branches a foot or more in length, while 
 in others they resemble short, stiff spurs, two to four inches 
 long. These two characters require difterent modes of 
 treatment. "Where there are branches of sufficient force 
 and properly situated to form the first series of main 
 branches, they must be treated in the same manner as 
 though the tree were two years old. The 
 strongest and best situated are selected and 
 pruned to within four to six inches of their 
 base, according to their vigor and position ; 
 the lowest should be not more than six inches 
 from the stock. The small, feeble, superfluous 
 ones are entirely removed ; the leading shoot, 
 which, in such cases, is short and provided 
 with plump buds, does not require a heavy 
 shortening ; in most cases one half will be 
 quite sufficient. Fig. 105 represents a tree 
 of this kind ; the cross-lines indicate the cuts. 
 Yearling pear tree Wlicre tlic lateral brauchcs are short and 
 with branches, the gp||p_iii^e tlicv will require very careful treat- 
 
 pnining indicated ^ t ,j x./ 
 
 by the spaces. mcut ; the strougcst and best placed are 
 reserved. If the lower ones have good terminal buds, 
 they are left entire; those above them are shortened, the 
 
THE APPLE AND THE PEAE. 
 
 211 
 
 lower to three, the next above to two, and the uppermost, 
 next the leading shoot, to one bud. This will give their 
 productions a proper relative degree of vigor. The leader 
 is cut back furrier than in the well branched subject, 
 because it is presumed the buds are less excitable. As a 
 general thing, within four to six buds of the highest lateral, 
 or one half of its length. 
 
 There is another class of trees necessary to be noticed 
 here, because they are very common — two year old nur- 
 sery trees thatliave not heen projperly treated. 
 Fig. 106 represents a tree of this kind. A 
 few inches only of the top were taken off at 
 the commencement of the second year's 
 growth, and after that it was left to itself. 
 Branches, therefore, were produced only at 
 the top, leaving a vacant space of two feet, 
 the very part that should have produced the 
 first set of main branches. The best disposi- 
 tion to make of such a tree would be to con- 
 duct it in the form of a dwarf standard, which 
 it really is at present ; but it happens that in 
 some cases it is desired to convert them into 
 pyramids, and therefore it is essential that the 
 proper means b« pointed out. Two year old Fig. loe. 
 trees, like yearlings, differ materially in the pet ^^e.^ rot' Tit 
 character of the buds on the lower part of the tack far enough 
 
 i r\ ji •, • 1 the first season ; 
 
 stem. On some, these are quite promment, so t^e second prun- 
 much so as to appear to have made some ad- ^"&' ^o produce 
 
 , , ., 1 M • 1 branches below, is 
 
 vance towards development, while m others indicated by the 
 they are quite flat and dormant. It is obvious ^'""^^ ^'"®- 
 that trees in the first condition will not require that severe 
 retrenchment on the head to produce branches below, as 
 the last. In this case it will generally be sufficient, and 
 especially if the space between the stock and first branches 
 does not exceed two feet, to cut back the leader to three 
 
212 PRUNING. 
 
 l)iids, and the lateral branches below it to one bud ; but 
 when the buds are small and backward, or when the 
 branchless space is over two feet in length, the two year 
 old wood must be cut back to within eighteen inches to 
 two feet of the base. We find that in the case of imported 
 trees, or those carried a great distance, and more or less 
 injured, nothing short of this severe cutting can ensure 
 branches low enough to form a pyramidal tree. It seems 
 a great pity to cut back a tree in this manner, and lose a 
 year or two of its growth and bearing, but it is absolutely 
 necessary when the pyramidal form is wanted. There is 
 still another class of trees that we sometimes see sent out 
 from the nurseries. These are two or three years old ; 
 have been cut back, and are pretty well furnished, in all 
 their length, with lateral branches ; but from the want of 
 j^roper care, those on the upper jDarts have acquired greater 
 vigor than those below, presenting the tree in a situation 
 just the reverse, in this respect, of what it ought to be. 
 In pruning this subject at the time of planting, the lower 
 branches must either be shortened very slightly in order 
 to get a strong bud for a leader, or they must be left 
 entire, while those above will be cut close ; where we want 
 the longest and strongest branches, there we leave the 
 most wood. 
 
 The most important pruning performed upon a tree is 
 the jvrst one^ for it is this which makes all future manage- 
 ment easy and successful, or difficult and unsatisfactory. 
 This is the reason why it has appeared necessary to treat 
 )f it so minutely. Having encountered all the difficulties 
 :hat others are likely to encounter, and having described 
 :hem and pointed out the means by which they are to be 
 :>vercome, it is believed that the matter has been made so 
 ])lain, that any man of ordinary intelligence, and possess- 
 ing the slightest knowledge of tree culture, can take his 
 knife and prepare his trees in such a manner as to give 
 
THE APPLE AND THE PEAK. 213 
 
 hhii a most reasonable hope of attaining his ends. We 
 now proceed to the 
 
 Summer management of trees thus cut hack. — We will 
 first consider the case of the yearling without branches. 
 If it has been cut low enough, as directed, all the buds 
 below the cut will push. As a space of six inches should 
 be kept clear between the ground and the first or lowest 
 tier of branches, such shoots as may appear on that 
 part will be iTibbed off at once. Of the remaining ones, 
 a certain number, three to six, according to the length of 
 the stem, will be reserved. These must be the strongest, 
 and properly situated on the stem, within eight to ten 
 inches of space between each branch, and that immedi- 
 ately above it, and regularly placed on all sides of the 
 stem. Some recommend leaving on all the shoots that 
 are produced the first season ; but in certain cases this 
 would be bad practice, for if the buds be very close, the 
 shoots would be so numerous that the strength of them 
 all would be impaired, and much pruning would be 
 required the next season. The better way is to select 
 such as are wanted, and rub ofiT the others ; the saj) which 
 they would have approj^riated will be turned to the 
 account of the permanent branches, and increase their 
 vigor. The leading shoot must be directed in a straight 
 line ; in some cases a support may be necessary. If the 
 branches immediately below it are so vigorous as to inter- 
 fere with its growth, they must be checked by pinching. 
 In some cases it may be necessary to do this when they 
 are an inch or two in length. It sometimes occurs that 
 the bud cut to is injured by the weather, close cutting, 
 or some other cause, and pushes so feebly that the laterals 
 below it having more vigor take the lead. This must be 
 prevented in time. A proper relative degree of vigor 
 must be maintained among all the branches, by checking 
 when necessarv the most vio^orous. 
 
214 
 
 PRUNING. 
 
 The first summer's treatment of the branched yearling 
 (fig. 105.) will consist in maintaining a uniform growth 
 among the lateral branches, and in the case of the leading 
 shoot, as already described. Some lateral shoots will be 
 produced on the branches, and these must all be pinched 
 at an inch or two, as it is yet too soon to allow of the for- 
 mation of secondary branches. The summer treatment 
 of fig. 106, the two year old tree, will be conducted on 
 the same principles. The encouragement of the leading 
 shoot will require special attention to secure it in an up 
 right position, as, in many cases, where two year old wood 
 is cut back, the leading shoots assume a horizontal or 
 curved direction. 
 
 The second jpruning . — We have now a tree composed of 
 two sections : the first is the two-year-old 23art, furnished 
 with lateral branches ; and the second, the leading shoot 
 produced last season. (Fig. 107.) In pruning it, our object 
 will be to establish a new section of 
 branches on the leader, to continue the 
 prolongment of the lower branches, and to 
 induce the formation of fruit spurs towards 
 their base. To accomj^lish these ends, we 
 shorten the leader or stem, on the same 
 principle in relation to its character, as 
 already directed for the yearling trees, 
 >om one-half to two-thirds its length, and 
 sometimes more. Every bud between the 
 one we cut to and the base of the shoot, 
 should 2)ush ; and the bud to produce the 
 leader should be large, perfectly formed, 
 and oiyposite the cut of the previous year. 
 The lateral branches on the first section 
 
 are shortened according to 
 
 their vigor. 
 
 always remembering that the lowest must 
 be the longest, to carry out the pyramidal 
 
 Fig. 107. 
 A two year old pear 
 tree, having made one 
 year's growth after the 
 first pruning. 
 
THE APPLE AND THE PEAR. 215 
 
 form. They should also be cut back sufficiently to insure 
 the growth of all the buds on them. This point requires 
 considerable care, for if not cut back enough, the interior 
 of the trees becomes naked, instead of being supplied with 
 shoots for bearing spurs; and if cut back too far, the 
 shoots will be too vigorous and difficult to control. The 
 appearance of the buds, and the habits of the yariety, 
 will be a sufficient guide if properly studied. 
 
 Treatment of tlie growing shoots. — ^When the buds haye 
 all started and made a growth of an inch or two, their 
 force and forwardness will indicate the uses to be made 
 of them. Each of the main branches of the first section 
 may be considered as a stem ; its leader will require the 
 same treatment to favor its extension. At this time a 
 secondary branch may be required to fill up the space 
 which widens as the branches extend. If so, a shoot is 
 selected for this purpose, and all the others on the same 
 branch are checked at two inches, and converted into 
 fruit branches. All the laterals are treated in this way. 
 The second section, now in process of formation, must be 
 manaered as directed for the first section. Durins^ the 
 first season, the requisite number of shoots is preserved, 
 and the superfluous ones removed early. The leader is 
 maintained erect ; and the laterals immediately below it, 
 beino^ always inclined to visrorous oTowth, must be checked 
 to keep them in a proper condition relative to the leader 
 and the branches below them. The leading shoot must 
 always maintain its pre-eminence. It often happens that 
 the lateral shoots of the main branches that have been 
 pinched will start and grow again. In such cases an- 
 other pinching must be performed within an inch of the 
 previous one. As a general thing, this will be sufficient ; 
 but if not, a third must be given in the same way ; for if 
 they be allowed to extend into wood branches they will 
 require knife pruning, and create confusion among all 
 
216 
 
 PEUNING. 
 
 parts of the tree. A very general error in condncting 
 trees of this kind, and indeed all others, is to allow the 
 branches to be too close to each other, so that when they 
 come to bear, the wood, foliage, and fruit, on the interior, 
 are so exchided from the air and light that they all 
 suffer. The frnit is imperfect, and the spnrs become 
 feeble and gradually perish. The tree has now two 
 branclied sections, each from twelve inches to two feet, as 
 the case may be, and with four to six branches on each ; 
 the leading shoot is from one to three feet in length. 
 
 The a verage height 
 of three year old trees, 
 on the quince in our 
 grounds, transplanted at 
 one year old, and twice 
 pruned, is five to six 
 feet. A fe\v very vigo- 
 rous growing varieties, 
 that throw up a leader 
 every season three to four 
 feet in length, are seven 
 to eight feet; but these 
 are comparatively few in 
 number. 
 
 Tliii'd 'pruning . — This 
 is done on precisely 
 the same imnciples laid 
 down for the second. 
 The leader of the stems 
 is cut back in proportion 
 to its vigor, the lateral 
 branches are also short- 
 ened in the same man- 
 ner. It must always be 
 kept in mind that the 
 
 Fig. 108. 
 
 A pear tree four years old, three times 
 pruned, having three branch sections, a 6, c, 
 seven feet high, and furnished in the lower 
 parts with fruit spurs. The cross lines indicate 
 tlic f'lurtl pruning. 
 
THE ArrLE AND THE PEAE. 217 
 
 lowest brandies must be longest, and when it happens 
 that they do not take their due proportion of vigor, as 
 compared with those above them, and if pinching has 
 not been duly attended to the past summer, to maintain 
 regularity, the w^eaker must now be favored with a long 
 pruning. 
 
 Fig. 108 represents a four-year old pear tree of the white 
 Doyenne, three times pruned, «, J, c. 
 
 It has been remarked, that the habits of growth and 
 bearing of the pear and apple are similar, but it should 
 be noted, that in treating them as pyramids, the apple 
 tree is more liable to lose its vigor at the top, and there- 
 fore it is necessary to keep an eye to this point in their 
 management. From wiiat lias been said wdth reference 
 to an equal distribution of the sap, the remedy for this 
 difficulty will be obvious, viz., to reduce the vigor of the 
 lower 2^arts by pinching, shortening, and heavy crops, 
 and to favor the upper part by long pruning and thin- 
 ning, or wholly removing the fruits. 
 
 Management of the fruit Iranclies. — About the sixth 
 to the eighth year, from the first i>runing of the tree, it 
 will have attained nearly as great dimensions as in many 
 cases will be desirable, and be well furnished with fruit 
 brandies. 
 
 After this period, the object of the pruning will be to 
 prevent the extension of the tree, and maintain the fi'uit 
 bearing parts in a healthy and productive state. Without 
 proper care they will be liable to suffer from bearing too 
 much, or from the growth of young wood on the extremi- 
 ties of young branches. 
 
 To diminish the growth, and favor the fruit branches, 
 the young shoots must be pruned shorter than before, in 
 order to turn the sap more to the benefit of the fruits, and 
 Avhen the fruit spurs become too numerous, so as to be too 
 near one another, and produce more fruit than tlie tree 
 10 
 
218 rEUJ>fiNG. 
 
 can sustain with safety, a portion of tliem mnst be pruned 
 off. The lower parts always experience this difficulty 
 first, the sap circulating more slowly there than in the 
 summit. Fruit spurs of the pear and apple, if well 
 managed, continue in a vigorous bearing state for a great 
 many years. To renew and ]3rolong their vigor, the older 
 parts must, from time to time, be cut away, and new pro- 
 ductions created at their base to take their place. 
 
 P Timing and management of the Ajpjple as a dwarf 
 on tlie jparadise stoclc. 
 
 ^Nothing is more simple than the treatment of these 
 little bushes. 
 
 They should have short stems, six to eight inches from 
 the ground, and the head should not be allowed to exceed 
 three to three and a half feet in height, because the roots 
 are very small, and do not take such a firm hold of the 
 ground as to admit of a head that would offer much ob- 
 stacle to the wind. The branches should be evenly dis- 
 tributed around the head, open in the centre, in the form 
 of a vase, and be furnished in all their parts witli bearing 
 spurs. 
 
 These are the points to aim at in commencing the 
 formation of these trees. The proceedings are as follows: 
 
 1st. Pruning. — We will su23pose that the subject is a 
 yearling bud or graft, a single shoot eighteen to twenty 
 inches in height. In this case, the stem is cut back to the 
 point where it is intended to form the head, six to ten 
 inches, as the case may be, from the stock. Below this, 
 most of the buds will start and form shoots, from which 
 we select three or four of the strongest and best situated, 
 equally distant, if possible, around the stem, and rub or 
 pinch off all the others. The growth of the branches 
 thus selected for a head, is encouraged during the first 
 season, by keej^ing down all other productions that may 
 appear. 
 
THE APrLE AND THE TEAR. 
 
 219 
 
 2d. Pruning. — The tree has now three or four branches 
 destined to be the basis of the frame- work of the 
 head. These branches are cut back full one half 
 their length, according as the buds in the variety are 
 easily excited or not, the object being to induce all 
 t]i(b buds below the cut to push. After growth has 
 commenced, and an inch or two of new wood been made, 
 the shoot from the bud cut to, will be chosen as a 
 leader to continue the extension of the branch ; and if 
 secondary branches be wanted, they will be chosen from 
 those best situated, to fill up the existing vacancies. All 
 the other shoots are pinched when two or three inches 
 long, to convert them into fruit spurs, and to prevent 
 their interfering with the growth of the w^ood branches. 
 If one pinching is not sufficient, another must be given 
 in the same way as recommended for pyramidal trees. 
 Indeed, the whole process, as far as it goes, is the same ; 
 but the same efforts are not 
 necessary to maintain an equal 
 distribution of the sap, for the 
 tree is so low, and the form so 
 natural, that no branch is more 
 favorably situated than another ; 
 and hence they are easily kept in 
 an uniform state of vigor. The 
 branches of irregular-growing 
 sorts will require to be secured 
 by stakes in their proper places 
 for a year or two at first, until 
 they have assumed a permanent 
 
 . , Dwaf ai pie tree, four years 
 
 position. old, stem ten inches high, head 
 
 The third, and all subsequent c«n^P"«ed of four main branches 
 
 ' ^ and several secondary branches ; 
 
 prUningS, will be conducted on pruned three times as at a. b, now 
 the same principles as the first in a bearing state. 
 
 and second, already described, until the tree has attained 
 
PKUXIXG. 
 
 its full size. Fig. 109 represents a dwarf apple tree, foiu* 
 years old. three times primed — the two last primings are 
 indicated by the lettei*s a and h. 
 
 ^lanagement of tJie Bearing Tree. — Li most cases the 
 apple on the paradise is disposed to excessive fridtfiilness, 
 and unless the fiiiit branches be occasionally thinned and 
 shortened, in order to rednce the number of bearing 
 buds, and to produce new wood, the trees become enfee- 
 bled. Bad management of this kind has promulgated 
 the belief that the apple on the paradise is exceed- 
 ingly short-lived ; but the fact that plantations exists in the 
 most perfect vigor at the end of twelve to fifteen years 
 after planting, shows that by proper treatment their exist- 
 ence is not so fleeting. The spinas must be managed in a 
 manner similar to that described in treating of pyramids, 
 to renew them, and the slender fruit branches must be short- 
 ened. This, in addition to the manimng to be hereafter 
 described, constitutes the substance of their management. 
 
 The P riming and Management of the Apple and Pear 
 as espaliers. — In the cool, moist climate of England, this 
 is a popular and advantageous method of training apples 
 and peai*s. The specimens of this kind in public and 
 private gardens there, are admirable in their way, and 
 illusti-ate the skill and handiwork of the English gardener 
 very favorably. But our climate is not suitable as a gen- 
 eral thing for espaliers ; the branches are so exposed to 
 the rays of our powei-ftil sun, that the sap is impeded in 
 its circulation, and the fruits fall. It is, therefore, un- 
 necessary to enter into any detail respecting this mode of 
 training ; but there may be situations where such a sys- 
 tem may succeed, and especially in the north. The best 
 espalier form for the apple and pear, is that of the hon- 
 zontal., that is, an upright centi-al stem, with horizontal 
 amis or branches at equal distances on both sides (fig. 
 110). The production of this tree depends in the main 
 
THE APPLE A2sT> THE PEAR. 221 
 
 on the same princij^les as the pTramid, and does not re- 
 quire illustration. The young tree is cut back to within 
 six inches of the ground. From the shoots produced be- 
 
 FiG. no. 
 
 Pear tree trained horizontally. 
 
 low that point, three are selected, the upper one to form 
 the upright leader or stem, and two lateral or side 
 ones to fomi the two first arms. The first season these 
 shoots are allowed to grow upright and are kept in equal 
 vigor. At the commencement of the second season, they 
 are all cut back far enough, say one third to one half their 
 length, or even more in some cases, to ensure the growth 
 of all the buds. 
 
 The upper shoot on each is selected for a leader, and 
 the others are pinched at two inches or less. After the 
 pruning, the arms ai'e brought down half way to a hori- 
 zontal position, and towards the latter end of the season, 
 wholly. An uniformity of gi'owth among all the parts is 
 maintained according to the means and piinciples already 
 laid down, and year after year the tree is thus treated 
 until the requisite height and number of horizontal arms 
 or branches be obtaiued. In the case of veiy rigorous 
 growing sorts the leader may be stopped in June, and 
 thus a second pair of arms be produced in one year. The 
 upright leader and the branches are treated in a similar 
 manner — a difierence in vigor always requiring a corres- 
 p:>nding difference in treatment. For espaliers, the apple 
 should be on the paradise or Doucain, and the pear on 
 
222 PEUNING. 
 
 the quince^ because these stocks all diminish the vigor of 
 wood growth, which is often the chief difficulty in man- 
 aging trained trees. 
 
 The aspect for these trees should never be due south. 
 A railing to train such trees on, is made of upright posts 
 sunk in the ground, and connected with cross bars, at 
 eight to twelve inches apart, upon which the arms of the 
 esjDalier are fastened with willow or bass matting. Mr. 
 Rivers, in his " Miniature Fruit Garden," exhibits a sys- 
 tem of growing pears in espalier, in the form of pyramids, 
 as adopted by himself. I saw these trees when in Eng- 
 land, in 1849, and although it appeared a very ingenious 
 and economical arrangement, admitting a great number 
 of varieties in a small space, and besides very well 
 adapted to an English climate, yet it did not apj)ear to offer 
 any advantages that would warrant its recommendation 
 in this country, unless under rare circumstances in the 
 most northern sections. Whoever will study attentively 
 the means described for conducting a pyramid, can suc- 
 ceed fully in training the es]3aliers or wall pyramid. 
 
 Section 2. — Pruning and Training the Quince. 
 
 As ordinarily grown, the quince is the most neglected, 
 and consequently, the most unsightly, deformed tree to be 
 found in the orchard or garden, and yet, when well treated, 
 it is really, both when in blossom and in fruit, one of the 
 most beautiful of all our fruit trees. Its fruit is more 
 esteemed, and more generally used in this than in any 
 other country. It is naturally a crooked or spreading 
 bush, and without some attention to pruning and training 
 when young, it assumes an irregular form, branching near 
 the ground, and quite destitute of bearing wood on all its 
 lower and interior parts. It is in this neglected form we 
 most generally find it. To make a regular and handsome 
 
THE QUINCE. 
 
 223 
 
 little tree, we haye only, in the first place, to rear a 
 straio^ht and stout trunk about two or three feet hliAi. 
 
 If the plants be weak or crooked when planted, they 
 should be cut low down to obtain a stout and straio-ht 
 stem. The young shoot should be kej)t tied up to a stake 
 to prev^ent it from straggling. 
 
 The second year, if the growth has been vigorous, and 
 low trees are desired, the head may be commenced. But 
 if a stem three or four feet high be desired, it should be 
 at least one inch in diameter, and another year's growth 
 may be necessar3^ 
 
 The head is formed in the same manner as described for 
 standard and dwarf apples and pears. It should be 
 round, symmetrical, and open, and well furnished on all 
 parts with bearing wood. 
 
 The bearing branches or spurs of the quince are small 
 twiggy shoots {B^ fig- 
 Ill), produced on wood 
 at least two years old. 
 These bear two, three, 
 or more fruit buds. 
 These produce shoots 
 two or three inches 
 long ((7, ^g. Ill), on 
 the point of which the 
 fruit is borne singly. 
 These S23urs have al- 
 ways wood buds as well 
 as fruit buds, and there- 
 fore they should be 
 shortened back as to 
 A^ fig. Ill, the spring 
 
 after thev have horUP B, fruit branch of the quince. C, the shoot pra- 
 
 ciiiei luej na\ e Dorne, ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^,^g ^^^j^ ^ud. ^, point at which it 
 
 in order to produce new should be cut back after bearing. 
 
 spurs at the same point. 
 
 Fiff. 111. 
 
224 PRUNING. 
 
 The French conduct it in beautiful pyi'amids, on pre- 
 cisely the same principle as the pear and apple ; but the 
 leading shoot must be kept fastened to an upright sup- 
 port — ^a small rod attached to the base — on account of its 
 reclining habit. The medlar is but little cultivated. Its 
 treatment may be exactly similar to that described for the 
 quince, its habits of growth and bearing being similar. 
 
 Section 3. — Peuning the Cheery. 
 
 The cherry is conducted in any desirable form with as 
 much facility as any of all our hardy fruit trees. ' The 
 Tieart and Mgarreau classes are very rapid grow ers, often 
 attaininsc the hei2:ht of six feet the first season from the 
 bud or graft, and in two years forming fine standard trees 
 six to seven feet high, with a few top shoots. They have 
 also large, drooping leaves, and, with few exceptions, stift*, 
 erect, or slightly curved branches. 
 
 The duke class does not grow so rapidly. The branches 
 are stiff and erect, the leaves smaller as a general thing 
 than the preceding classes, more erect, thicker, and of a 
 deeper, darker green color. 
 
 The morellos are of a bushy habit, with smaller leaves 
 than any of the preceding classes, and the branches are 
 more slender and closer together. The bark of all is very 
 tough, being composed of several layers of jDOwerful 
 fibres and tissue. It does not yield readily, like that of 
 most other fruit trees, to the expansion or growth of the 
 wood, and this occasions the bui^ting and exuding of gum 
 in certain localities, especially in the more rapid growing 
 classes. The mode of bearing has already been described 
 under the head of fruit branches, in the beginning of the 
 work. The fruit is produced on wood three years old 
 thus : The shoot of last year's growth, which is furnished 
 now with leaf buds in all its length, will produce at the 
 
THE CHERET. 225 
 
 point, if not shortened, one or more sLoots, and all the 
 buds remaining are, dm*ing the season, transformed into 
 clusters of fruit bud^, and produce fruit the year follow- 
 ing. In the centre of these clusters of fruit buds there is 
 always a wood bud, and this grows a little and produces 
 new clusters of fruit buds to replace those that have 
 borne. Some of the morellos produce fruit on two-year- 
 old wood, like the peach, the leaf buds being transformed 
 into fruit buds. During the second growth of the first 
 season of their formation, the fruit bud is very easily 
 distinguished from the leaf bud by its roundness and 
 plumpness. 
 
 Pruning the Clierry as a Standard. — In Western ITew 
 York the cherry succeeds so well, and is so totally exempt 
 from the bursting of the bark, that trees can be grown 
 safely with trunks ^lyq, or six feet high ; but in the West, 
 when this malady prevails, the less there be of a naked 
 trunk the better ; for it is the trunk and large branches 
 that are generally so affected. As a standard, the cherry 
 requires very little j)runing. 
 
 To form a round ojpen head. — We will take for exam- 
 ple a young tree two years old, having three or four top 
 branches. These at the time of j)lanting should be cut 
 back to within four or five buds of their base, and when 
 growth has commenced, the requisite number of shoots, 
 say four or five, to form the framework of the head are 
 selected, evenly distributed on all sides, and all the others 
 pinched or rubbed off. 
 
 The following season these shoots may again be short- 
 ened to produce secondary branches to fill up sj^aces, and 
 those arising in the centre should be pinched out, for the 
 head must be kept open and accessible to the sim and 
 light. In about three years of such treatment, the head 
 of the tree assumes a permanent form, and thereafter, may 
 be left to itself, except to remove occasionally branches 
 10^ 
 
226 PRUNING. 
 
 that may cross or interfere with one another. Our stand- 
 ard trees here are in the best possible condition, and have 
 not had a knife on them, except to cut scions for budding 
 or grafting, in seven years. 
 
 Pyramidal Headed Standards. — Certain varieties, for 
 instance, Sparhawlvs Honey .^ Dov^iier'^s^ China Bigarreau^ 
 Black Tartarian^^ Black Heart.^ and some others, make 
 fine pyramidal shaped heads without pruning, more than 
 to give the leader its due superiority at the beginning, and 
 to remove afterwards crossing and superfluous branches. 
 
 Such varieties as the Yellow Spanish, Black Eagle, 
 Knight's Ey. Black, Elton, and all the spreading sorts, 
 should have round open heads built upon three or four 
 main branches as described. 
 
 Pruning the Cherry as a Pyramid. — ^The same process 
 recommended for the pyramidal training of the pear and 
 apple, may be applied with complete success to the cherry. 
 "We have now in our specimen grounds a collection of all 
 the classes trained, according to the method described, 
 and their condition is in every respect satisfactory ; they 
 have all given fruit the third year. 
 
 In most cases the trees were taken from the nursery 
 rows at the end of their first season's growth from the bud. 
 Some had no side branches, and others had. It is very 
 common for cherries and especially the Dukes and Morel- 
 los to form a number of lateral branches the first season. 
 Growth becomes slightly susj)ended, or at least goes on 
 very slowly in July ; during this time the buds on the 
 lower part acquire a sort of maturity, and when a new 
 growth commences they push and form shoots. Cherry 
 trees of this kind are in a good condition for pyramids. 
 We select from these the strongest and best situated to 
 form the lower tier of permanent branches ; the lower ones 
 are shortened to four or five buds, and the upper ones to 
 two or three. The leader or stem is cut back to within 
 
THE CHERRY. 227 
 
 six, eight, or ten buds of the branches. Tliose having no 
 branches are cut back to within six or eight buds of tlie 
 stock. And this is the first pruning. 
 
 Treatment during the first Swnimer after Pruning. — 
 When the joung shoots have grown a couple of inches in 
 length, such as are intended for permanent branches are 
 chosen, and the others are pinched in the same manner as 
 recommended for pears and apples. Such as acquire 
 more vigor than is consistent with their position, must be 
 checked. It fi-equently hapj)ens that unless the leader 
 has been cut back close, only three or four shoots wdll be 
 produced at the extremity, leaving a vacant space below. 
 This can be remedied in most cases by pinching the shoots 
 around the leader when they have grown about an inch. 
 In some cases it may be necessary even to check the 
 leader to force the lower buds into growth. This is a point 
 of considerable importance in conducting a pyramid, and 
 should never be lost sight of. 
 
 The Cherry as an Espalier. — Except it be the training 
 of the morello, or some other late varieties, on a north 
 wall to prolong their season of maturity, the cherry is sel- 
 dom grown as an espalier tree in this country, nor is it to 
 be recommended except in some rare instances. The 
 simplest and probably the best form is that suggested for 
 pears and api3les, an upright stem with horizontal branches. 
 To produce this the same means are employed as have 
 been previously described. If the tree has no side 
 branches proper for the first arms, it must be cut back to 
 within six inches of the ground, and from the shoots pro- 
 duced below that, one is selected for the leader, and one 
 on each side for the first horizontal branches ; the other 
 shoots are pinched off. At the next ^^I'^ming, the leader 
 is again shortened toj^roduce another pair of sidebn-nches 
 eight or ten inches from the first ; the leader is continued 
 in an upright direction, and the side branches are brought 
 
228 PEUNLNG. 
 
 half way down in midsummer, and at tlie following spring 
 pruning they are placed in the horizontal position. The 
 leading shoot of rapid growing sorts may be stopped about 
 the end of June, and this will produce side shoots from 
 w^hicli another pair of arms may be taken, and thus gain 
 a year in the formation of the tree, or covering the wall 
 or trellis. 
 
 For weak growing sorts, the fan form or some modi- 
 fication of it would, perhaps, be more suitable than the 
 horizontal, as it offers less restraint to the circulation of 
 the sap in the branches. 
 
 The Cliey'vy as a Dwarf or Busli. — 'The slow growing 
 sorts, such as the dii]i:es and 7noreUos^ when worked on the 
 mahaleb stock, make very pretty and very easily man- 
 aged prolific bushes, and by occasional root pruning they 
 may be confined to as small a space as a dwarf apple 
 tree. To produce this form, the young tree is cut back 
 to within five or six buds of its base ; and from the shoots 
 produced below that, four or five evenly distributed 
 around the tree are selected for the permanent branches 
 or frame-work of the tree. The others are rubbed oflf. 
 At the next pruning the branches thus produced are 
 shortened to produce secondary branches ; and thus it is 
 treated from year to year until the tree is formed and full 
 grown. 
 
 The branches must be kept far enough apart to admit 
 the sun and air freely amongst them. Wlien the tree is 
 '^YQ or six years old, if it grows too vigorously, requiring 
 more space than can be given it, the larger roots may be 
 shortened in July or August, or in the winter. This and 
 the pyramid, and the dwarf standard, with stems two feet 
 high, are the most eligible garden forms for tlie cherry.^ 
 
 * Mr. Rivers states in his " Miniature Fruit Garden," that he has a 
 plant of the late duke cherry ten years old, that never was root-pruned, and 
 yet is a small prolific tree, five feet in height, and the branches the same in 
 
THE PEACH. 229 
 
 The dwarf standard is treated precisely as tlie dwari, 
 and differs from it only in having two feet instead of six 
 or eight inches of stem. In pruning and training the 
 cherry, it should always be borne in mind that when 
 large branches are removed, it is liable to suffer from the 
 gum, and, therefore, the regulation of the shoots should 
 be carefully attended to* in summer, that amputations of 
 woody parts may be avoided as far as possible. When it 
 is necessary, however, the cut surface heals more rapidly 
 and surely when made in the summer, during the growing 
 season. 
 
 Section 4. — Pruning and Management of the Peach. 
 
 The peach is universally regarded as the most delicious 
 fruit of our climate, and ranks in importance for orchard 
 culture next to the apple and the pear. E'owhere in the 
 world is it produced in such quantities, and with so little 
 labor, as in America. An English or French gardener 
 will expend more labor on a single tree, than the majority 
 of our orchardists do upon one hundred. Our favorable 
 climate obviates a multitude of difficulties that have to 
 be contended with in other countries, and renders unneces- 
 sary the minute and laborious systems of management 
 Avliich they find it absolutely necessary to pursue. 
 
 But this very excellence of our climate has given rise 
 to a most negligent and defective system of cultivation, 
 as is everywhere illustrated in the condition of orchards. 
 The j)each, of all other trees, is one that, from its mode 
 of growth and bearing, requires constant pruning to 
 maintain it in a shapely, thrifty, and productive state. 
 The sap tends powerfully to the extremities of the shoots, 
 
 diameter. We have in our specimen grounds trees of several dukes and 
 moreilos, six years old, on mahaleb stocks, not over four or five feet high, 
 and pictures of fruitfulness. 
 
230 PRUNING. 
 
 more so than in any other fruit tree. The buds that do 
 not push and form shoots the first season after their for- 
 mation, are lost ; they cannot, as in most other trees, be 
 excited into growth ; and hence it is that the lower parts 
 become so rapidly denuded of young wood, and that 
 trees left to themselves for six or seven years are in a 
 measure worn out and worthless." 
 
 The fruit is borne only on wood of the preceding year 
 (see fruit branches), and every part destitute of such 
 wood must be w^orthless ; consequently one of the great 
 objects of pruning is to keep all parts of the tree fur- 
 nished with a regular and constant succession of annual 
 bearing shoots. 
 
 This fact must never be lost sight of 
 
 The case of a sino-le shoot will illustrate the influence 
 of pruning and its necessity. By referring to the fruit 
 branch, it w^ill be seen that it is furnished with a certain 
 number of jtv^ood buds and fruit buds. At the base there 
 are always one or two wood buds at least. 
 
 ]^ow, if that shoot were not pruned, all the fruit buds 
 on it would probably produce fruit— one, two, or three 
 of the wood buds at the top would make new shoots ; 
 these would necessarily be very weak in consequence of 
 the number of fruit below them. At the end of the 
 season there would be a long, vacant space, entirely des- 
 titute of a young shoot or a living bud. This is the way 
 that the interior and lower parts of trees become so soon 
 degarnished. 
 
 But when that shoot is shortened, we will say one half, 
 the sap is retained in its lower parts, one half of the 
 fruit buds are removed, and the consequence is that large 
 and fine fruits are obtained from those remaining ; young 
 vigorous shoots are produced from the lower buds to bear 
 next year, and take the place of those which have 
 already borne. In this way regular uniform crops of 
 
THE PEACH. 
 
 231 
 
 larsfe and fine fruit are obtained, and a constant succession 
 of joung shoots is kept up. 
 
 To form the head of a standard Peach Tree. — We 
 will suppose it the intention to form a standard tree, with 
 a trunk two feet in height, and a round, oj^en, and sym- 
 metrical head like fig. 112. We take a yearling tree and 
 cut it back to within two feet and a half of the ground in 
 the spring. Below^ this cut a certain number of shoots 
 will be produced, from which 
 three will be selected to form the 
 main branches or frame-work of 
 the head. All the others are rub- 
 bed off when two or three inches 
 Ions: or sooner. At the end of the 
 season w^e have a tree with three 
 branches. 
 
 The second year these three 
 branches are cut back full one 
 half their length, and from each 
 we take a shoot to continue the branch, and one to form 
 a secondary branch. The other shoots produced below 
 these are pinched or checked to prevent them from inter- 
 fering with the growth of the leading branches. In the 
 fall of the year we have a tree with six leading branches, 
 and some bearing shoots below on the older wood. 
 
 The third year each of these six branches is short 
 ened one half, in order to obtain more secondary branches, 
 and some fruit branches on the lower parts. All young 
 shoots on the old wood, whether fruit branches or not, 
 Bhould be cut back one half, or as far as may be necessary, 
 to cause the wood buds at their base to push, and make 
 shoots to bear next year. 
 
 The formation of the head goes on as described for two 
 or three years more, when it is complete ; for peach trees, 
 
 Fig 112. 
 
 Form of a low standard peacn 
 tree, with a stem two feet high 
 and a round, open head. 
 
232 PEUNING. 
 
 properly pruned, do not assume such wide-spreading 
 forms as thej do naturally. 
 
 The main branches and secondary branches should be 
 at equal distances throughout, and far enough apart to 
 give the bearing wood on their sides the full benefit of 
 the sun and air. 
 
 An equality of vigor should also be preserved amongst 
 them by summer pinching. It is not uncommon to see a 
 very vigorous shoot start up in a peach tree, and appro- 
 priate so much of the sap as to injure a whole branch ; 
 these should be checked the moment their character is 
 observed, unless they may be wanted to fill a vacancy. 
 Every part of the branches should be furnished with 
 bearing shoots, and these should, every spring, be short- 
 ened in one half or more, to produce others at their base, 
 whilst those that have borne are cut out. 
 
 Some people imagine that when they have taken a pair 
 of hedge shears, or some such instrument, and shorn oif 
 the ends of the shoots on the outside of the tree indis- 
 criminately, they are " shortening in," and so they are, 
 as they would a hedge ! Some of the shoots are cut 
 away entirely, fruit buds and all, whilst others remain 
 untouched, and the tree becomes like a brush on the out- 
 side and naked within. This is almost as bad as the let- 
 alone system. Every shoot should be cut separately. 
 The most expeditious instrument for doing this, is a pair 
 of light hand-pruning shears, such as the French secateur 
 (see instruments). A person accustomed to its use can 
 prune every shoot on a full-grown tree in an almost in- 
 credibly short space of time, as compared with that re- 
 quired with the knife. Extensive orchardists may be 
 deterred from such a labor, looking to the cost ; but if 
 they will engage quick, active, intelligent persons to do 
 the work, and estimate the increased value of the fruit, 
 
THE PEACH. 233 
 
 and longevity and beauty of tlieir trees, there can be no 
 doubt but it will be found ix paying investment. 
 
 Hoot Pruning. — In gardens where the soil is rich, and 
 trees very full of vigor, disposed to grow too much and 
 bear too little, root jDruning should be practised once in 
 two or three years — the first lightly, removing only the 
 ends of the large feeding roots. The safest time to do it 
 is between the fall of the leaf and the opening of spring. 
 Vegetation in the peach seldom becomes sufiiciently 
 inactive during the growing season, to enable the roots to 
 be pruned with safety. 
 
 The Peach in the form of a vase. — Among all the 
 forms in which trees are conducted, this is, when well 
 done, one of the most graceful. 
 
 It consists of a short stem two to five feet, according to 
 fimcy, with a head composed of three or four main 
 branches, and two or three times that number of second- 
 ary branches, all trained by means of light stakes at first, 
 and afterwards wire or w^ooden hoops in the form of a 
 vase or goblet. The branches are arranged in a circle, 
 with bearing shoots filling up the spaces. No shoots are 
 permitted either in the interior or in front that is project- 
 ing from the exterior surfiice of the goblet. 
 
 The most beautiful trees of this form are to be seen in 
 the gardens of the Luxembourg, at Paris, and elsewhere 
 in France. 
 
 Mr. Louis Gaudry, who has a very pretty little plan- 
 tation in Paris, and who has published a small work on 
 pruning and training trees, gives the annexed cut as a 
 representation of one of his vase peach trees of eight 
 years' growth (fig. 113). The following is the substance 
 of his mode of conducting them. 
 
 First Priming. — ^The stem of the yearling tree is cut 
 back to the point at which it is desired to commence the 
 head to three buds, forming a triangle and as nearly as 
 
234 
 
 PEUNING. 
 
 possible of the same height. Three shoots are obtained 
 from these three buds to form the first or main branches 
 
 Peach tree in the form of a vase, with four main branches, each havin» several 
 secondary branches. The stem in the figure is five feet, but shouid no', exceed two. 
 
THE PEACH. 235 
 
 or frame-work of the vase. To favor the growth of these, 
 all the shoots produced below them are nibbed off. 
 
 In order to give them the proper inclination, three 
 small stakes are inserted in the ground, to which the 
 three branches are fastened; it is supposed that if these 
 etakes be sunk as far from the base of the tree as the roots 
 extend, and in an upright 2:)osition, there will be a 
 sufficient opening or space in the centre. The branches 
 should be thus broui>:ht out about AuOTst, so that the for- 
 mation of new layers of wood subsequent to that time 
 may fix them in their places. The side shoots, wdiich are 
 produced on the young branches, towards the latter part 
 of the season, designated by the French lourgeans anticijjes^ 
 are pinched to one or two leaves. 
 
 2d. Pruning. — ^The spring following, the branches are 
 loosed from the stakes, and shortened to six or eight 
 inches of their base, to a leaf bud on the outside or front 
 of the branch, and with a bud below it, either on the right 
 or left side. The front bud continues the main branch, 
 and the side bud forms a secondary branch. The three 
 branches are pruned in this way, taking care that the 
 secondary branch on each is on the same side, so that two 
 of them cannot come in contact. To favor the growth of 
 these new shoots, all those situated below them that acquire 
 too much vigor, must be pinched at three or four leaves. 
 
 A wooden hoop may now be placed in the centre, to 
 which the branches are attached to keej) them, in their 
 places. In this way the tree progresses ; every year one or 
 more secondary branches are ^^roduced, the main branches 
 increase in length, and fruit shoots are produced on all 
 the intervals of the branches, on their two sides. 
 
 All shoots that j^ush either inside or in front of the vase 
 ave pinched ofi*, and pinching is practised at all times to 
 maintain equal growth between the different parts, and to 
 check any too great tendency of the sap to the extremities. 
 
236 PEUNING. 
 
 Third jpTuning . — ^The fruit branches are pruned to three 
 or four buds, to induce the lower wood buds to push and 
 form new wood for the next season. 
 
 The main branches are cut back to ten or twelve inches 
 above the previous pruning, to a bud on the front to con- 
 tinue the branch ; the buds selected to produce another 
 series of secondary branches, must all be on the side oppo- 
 site the previous ones. If the position of the buds renders 
 this impossible, then they may all be chosen on the same 
 side as the first. 
 
 The hoops this year will require to be larger in dia- 
 meter than the preceding, in order to give increased width 
 to the vase as it proceeds upwards. All the other opera- 
 tions are conducted in the same manner. The hoops in- 
 side are placed within six to eight inches of one another, 
 and the circular branches within twelve to fifteen inches. 
 As the tree advances in age, the growth may become too 
 vigorous at the top ; and in this case, the main branches, 
 always the most vigorous, must be pruned short, and even 
 pinched during summer, to turn the sap to the benefit of 
 the weaker parts. 
 
 These are the main points in the management of these 
 vases. It may be added, that the a^^ple, pear, cherry, 
 and indeed all other trees may be grown in this form, and 
 by the same means, varying it only to suit different modes 
 of growth and bearing, and degrees of vigor. 
 
 The Peach as an Espalier. — Espalier training will never 
 be practised in this country to any very great extent, and 
 therefore it may be considered, in comparison with open 
 ground systems, unimportant. Yet there are some dis- 
 tricts not so favorably situated as to be able to produce 
 peaches, apricots, and nectarines, in the open ground. 
 For these a proper system of espalier training is impor- 
 tant, because in this form trees are easily protected from 
 
THE PEACH. 
 
 237 
 
 winter or spring frosts, and they ripen their fruits per- 
 fectly, where open ground or standard trees would not. 
 
 The Peacli as an Esjpalier trained on a wall or trellis. — 
 There are a multitude of forms for espalier trees where 
 training on walls or trellises is necessarily and extensively 
 practised, as in England and France. The great requi- 
 sites in a wall tree are^Jirst, to have all the wall covered; 
 and, second, to have the different parts of the tree alike 
 favorably placed, with reference to its growth. 'Next to 
 these are simplicity and naturalness. 
 
 The most poj^ular form in England is that called the 
 
 Fig. 114. 
 Fan-shaped Espalier. 
 
 fan (fig. 114). In it the branches are spread out so as to 
 resemble a fan ; the lower ones are nearly or quite hori- 
 zontal ; the next more oblique ; and so they proceed 
 until the centre ones are quite upright, and this ajjpears 
 to be the defect of this form ; for the horizontal branches 
 cannot maintain such a vigor as those more erect above 
 them. The square espalier, invented by M. Felix Malo, 
 of France, and now extensively practised by some of the 
 best peach growers of the celebrated town of Montreuil, 
 seems to possess more advantages, all in all, than any 
 other. The " Bon Jardinier^^ from which the following 
 description of the method of conducting these trees is 
 
ed, the branches are ex- \ j, 
 amined to see if they be \ / 
 
 238 PRUNING. 
 
 taken, says : " This generally approved form begins to 
 find imitators, and it is j)robable that one day it will be 
 adopted by all intelligent gardeners." 
 
 First year. — We will begin wdth a peach tree one year 
 from the bud, and cnt it down to within six or eight 
 inches, or three or four buds of the stock. From the buds 
 produced below the cut, two of the strongest are chosen, 
 one on each side, to form the two main branches — hxmches 
 mere; all the other shoots are destroyed, and these two 
 are allowed to grow upright, and in the fall they will be 
 three to four feet high. 
 
 Second year (fig. 115). — In the spring, when hard frosts 
 are no longer apprehend- ^ / 
 
 sound and healthy, free 
 from bruises, insects, etc., 
 and they are cut back to 
 twelve or fifteen inches of their base, according to then- 
 strength ; a weak branch ought always to be cut back in 
 such a case as this further than a strong one. 
 
 The bud cut to, should, if possible, be on the inside.^ 
 and the next bud below it on the outside; the first to 
 continue the main branch, and the other to form the firsi 
 exterior secondary branch. All shoots starting on the 
 front or rear of the main branch should be rubbed ofi", 
 and those on the sides laid in early to prevent their 
 acquiring too much vigor. The main branches are left 
 till July, when they are brought down to the form of a Y, 
 and attached to the wall or trellis in this position. The 
 exterior secondary branch is placed more oblique, and the 
 fruit branches are kept in a uniform and moderate growth 
 by pinching and laying in. The most vigorous should 
 always be laid in first to check them, and favor the others. 
 
 Third year (fig. 116). — -After loosening the tree from 
 
TIIE PEACH. 239 
 
 t]i8 trellis, the two main branches are cut back to 
 sixteen or eighteen inches of the previous pruning, and 
 the two lower or secondary branches to twelve or sixteen 
 inches. 
 
 The fruit branches are shortened to within two or three 
 buds of their base, and all are again fastened back in their 
 places. When the young shoots have reached the length 
 of three, four, or five inches, such as are badly placed 
 on the front or rear of the branches, or in any place inju- 
 rious to the symmetry of the tree, are removed. During 
 the summer the different branches must be laid in from 
 time to time, the most vigorous first. This year two more 
 secondary branches must be obtained on each side, in the 
 same manner as in the previous year. Their growth is 
 also promoted by the same means. 
 
 The fruit branches on the sides of the main branches 
 may give a few fruit this year, and those on the second- 
 ary branches may bear next year. 
 
 The fruit branches that have borne are to be cut away 
 each year and replaced by others, therefore we must com- 
 mence to provide for these branches of replacement. 
 They are produced as follows : 
 
 First, it may be observed that fruit branches have gen- 
 erally one or more wood buds at their base. Sometimes 
 these will push and form branches of replacement with- 
 out any assistance, more than cutting back. In such a 
 case there is no difficulty. When the fruit is ripe, or at 
 the next pruning, the fruit branch that has borne is cut 
 away, and the new one takes its place. But nature does 
 not always act thus. It is generally necessary to force 
 the development of these branches of replacement, without 
 which the branches in all their lower parts would become 
 entirely denuded. 
 
 Hence, then, when a branch of replacement fails to 
 appear by the ordinary method of shortening, we have 
 
240 PKUNmG. 
 
 two modes of forcing it : one is to make, after the fruit is 
 set, an incision through the bark two inches above one of 
 the wood buds, and pinch close all the shoots on the fruit 
 branch, leaving only rosettes of leaves necessary to the 
 perfection of the fruit; pinching must be repeated all 
 thetime that the shoots on the fruit branch continue to 
 grow. 
 
 Fourth Year (iig. 117). — After having examined if the 
 tree is equally vigorous in all its parts, and having de- 
 cided upon the means of restoring the balance if it has 
 been lost, the tree is detached from the wall or trellis, and 
 pruned, commencing with the fruit branches that have 
 borne. These, it must be remembered, are to be cut back 
 each year to the new branch of replacement j^roduced at 
 its base. The young shoot then becomes the fruit branch, 
 and is 23runed within four to fourteen inches, according to 
 their vi^or and the situation of the fruit buds. 
 
 The two main branches are cut back to within about 
 twenty inches of the previous pruning ; the first shoot on 
 
 the inside is 
 chosen to conti- 
 nue the branchy 
 and the next 
 one below \ii 
 Fig. 117 Fig. 118. on the lov/er 
 
 Fourth year. Fifth year. ^^^ ^^^^^^ g-^g^ 
 
 to produce the third exterior secondary branch. The two 
 secondary branches already formed are cut back to about 
 twelve to fifteen inches of the previous pruning, in order 
 to make all the lateral buds on them push. The terminal 
 bud produces a leader to continue them ; all the others are 
 fruit branches. 
 
 In attaching the tree again to the wall, the angle that 
 exists between the two main branches is gradually 
 widened, the In-anches a litf e more spread at every pruning. 
 
THE PEACH. 
 
 241 
 
 Fiftli year (fig. 118). — The tree is now composed of 
 two main branches, both of which have three secondary 
 bmnches on their exterior lower sides, and fruit branches 
 on all their length on the interior and upper side ; and all 
 that is wanted to complete it, is to transform three of the 
 bearing shoots on the upper sides into three secondary 
 branches, corresponding and alternating with the three 
 lower ones. To do this, w^e select the fruit branch on 
 each, nearest the fork or base of the main branches. The 
 growth of this is favored by training it in an upright posi- 
 tion, and by pinching any vigorous shoots near it. The 
 tree is managed thus, as in preceding years, in regard to 
 laying in the shoots according to their vigor, and pinching 
 to maintain regularity, &c. 
 
 Tlie sixth year (fig. 119). — ^The pruning is conducted 
 on the same principles precisely, and another interior 
 secondary branch is produced in the same way as last 
 year. 
 
 The seventh year (fig. 120). — Another is produced on 
 
 
 
 
 Fig. 119. 
 Sixth year. 
 
 Fig. 120. 
 Seventh year. 
 
 each, and then the tree 
 with its two main 
 branches, and twelve 
 secondary branches, all 
 trained in the form of 
 a parallelogram is com- 
 plete (fig. 121), 
 11 
 
 Fig. 121. 
 Eighth year. 
 
242 
 
 PEUNING. 
 
 Fig. 122 represents the tree complete, bearing shoots 
 
 and all. 
 
 The main 
 
 branches should 
 be permanently 
 ^ fixed at an an- 
 igle of 45^. The 
 « lowest exte- 
 s rior secondary 
 S branches at 15^. 
 I Some cultiva- 
 I tors recommend 
 I'that the inte- 
 Z rior secondary 
 I branches con- 
 'l verge to the cen- 
 ■^ tre at an angle 
 • lof 45^. This 
 ^ S gives them an 
 ^ i oblique direc- 
 ^ tion, and places 
 « them upon a 
 i more equal foot- 
 ^ ing with the 
 I other 23 arts. 
 I In training 
 I such trees, an 
 £ imamnary cn'- 
 I cular line is 
 produced on the 
 wall or trellis, 
 and this is di- 
 vided off into 
 parts, corresponding to the degrees of a circle, commenc- 
 ing at the centre above, and numbering both ways to the 
 
THE PEACH. 243 
 
 base : this enables the persons who conduct the tree, to lay 
 in the branches on both sides at an equal angle with pre- 
 cision, which is quite requisite to maintain uniformitj of 
 growth and vigor. 
 
 It has been considered necessary to treat this subject 
 somewhat minutely, for the purpose of giving to persons 
 wholly unacquainted with training, some knowledge of the 
 princij^les on which it depends, and the mode of its 
 execution. 
 
 The form described above is one of the simplest of all 
 espaliers, except the horizontal, described in treating of 
 the apple and the pear ; but whoever can train a tree in 
 this manner well, can do it in all others, for the principles 
 of growth are the same always ; and he w^ho understands 
 these, can mould his trees at pleasure, provided he can 
 bestow the necessary labor. The peach may be grown in 
 any or all the espalier forms. 
 
 Laying in^ and fastening the trees to ivalls and trel- 
 lises. — ^When trees are trained to a wall or fence, the 
 branches are fastened in the desired j^osition by means of 
 shreds of cloth or list, half an inch wide, and from two to 
 three inches long, according to the size of the branch to 
 be laid in. Yery small nails are necessary to train on 
 boards, but larger ones on a brick and stone wall. On a 
 trellis, strings of bass matting are used instead of nails and 
 cloth ; and in fastening to simple rails, small willows may 
 be used. The principle to be observed, in laying in and 
 fastening the branches and shoots of espalier trees, is that 
 strong shoots must he laid in sooner than weaJc ones^ and 
 also more inclined from the vertical direction. A great 
 deal may be done towards maintaining uniformity of 
 growth in the different parts of a trained tree, by laying in 
 the branches in a judicious and discriminating manner. 
 
244 PRUNING. 
 
 Section 5. — Pruning and Management of the Plum. 
 
 The plum bears its fruit on spurs produced on wood 
 two years old and upwards, like the cherry (see fruit 
 branches). On young trees these spurs are several years 
 in the process of formation ; but when they commence to 
 bear they endure, if well managed, for many years. 
 They are generally furnished with wood buds on their 
 lower parts ; and when they begin to grow feeble, they 
 ought to be renewed by cutting back. The plum is almost 
 universally grown as a standard, and the head may be 
 conducted in the same manner as described for the cheny. 
 The branches should be mainly regulated by summer 
 pinching, to obviate the necessity of knife pnming, that 
 frequently gives rise to the gum. Some varieties of very 
 rapid growth produce shoots three or four feet long in one 
 season ; and if not shortened back at the spring pruning, 
 the tree presents long naked branches in a short time. 
 
 The chief difficulty in the way of conducting it as a 
 pyramid, is its great vigor ; but this can in a great mea- 
 sure be overcome by the use of dwarfing stocks^ hj pinch- 
 ing and by root jp^mning . 
 
 The latter will be found a most efficient mode of kee]3ing 
 the trees small and fruitful. We have had no experience 
 with the plum as a pyi-amid ; but Mr. Eivers says, that by 
 root pruning annually in October and i^ovember, he has 
 succeeded in making handsome pyramidal trees. Stand- 
 ards and dwarf standards may also be root pruned to 
 advantage in small gardens, and where it is desirable to 
 get them into early bearing. 
 
 The plum may be trained in any of the espalier forms 
 already described, and in the same manner. 
 
THE APEICOT. 245 
 
 Section 6. — Peuning and Management of the Apeicot. 
 
 The apricot, like the peach, has fruit and wood buds 
 mixed on the shoots of one year's growth. It has also 
 little fruit branches or spurs like the plum, which are 
 capable of being renewed by shortening. 
 
 The mode of pruning must therefore have in view the 
 production of young wood, and maintaining the spurs in 
 a vigorous and fruitful state. When neglected, it be- 
 comes, like the peach, denuded of young bearing wood in 
 the interior, and enfeebled by over-fruitfulness. The 
 shoots should therefore be shortened every season accord- 
 ing to their length, as recommended for the peach, to 
 reduce the number of blossom buds, and favor the pro- 
 duction of new bearing wood. 
 
 It is very liable to the gum, and severe pruning with 
 the knife should be obviated as far as possible by pinch- 
 ing. It may be conducted as a standard, pyramid, dwarf, 
 or espalier, on the same principle as other trees. When 
 trees become enfeebled by neglect or age, they can be 
 renewed by heading down close to the stem. New and 
 vigorous shoots are immediately produced that form a new 
 tree. This heading dowTi should be done very early in 
 the spring, and the wounds be carefully covered with 
 grafting wax. 
 
 It is one of the first of our fruit trees to blossom in the 
 spring, and therefore in some localities the flowers are 
 killed by the frost. Where this is apprehended, it may 
 be well to plant on the north side of a wall, or something 
 that will rather retard the period of blooming, and subject 
 it less to freezing and thawing. We have apricots trained 
 here on a south aspect, yet in seven years the blossoms 
 have not been killed, though in one or two instances they 
 
246 PRUNING. 
 
 have been slightly injured. The espalier trees offer great 
 facility for protection ; and therefore, where spring frosts 
 prevail, the apricot should be so 'trained. Mats or straw 
 hurdles can be jDlaced against them, both in spring and 
 winter if necessary, with the same ease that a common 
 frame is covered. 
 
 Section 7. — Pruning the I!Tectakine. 
 
 The nectarine is but a smooth skinned peach. The 
 trees are so similar in their mode of growth, buds, etc., 
 that they cannot be distinguished from one another, and, 
 therefore, whatever has been said resj^ecting the pruning 
 and treatment of one, apj^lies with equal force to the 
 other. This fruit is so infested with the curculio, that it 
 is almost impossible to obtain a crop that will pay for 
 culture in any part of the country in the open ground. Un- 
 less some more effective remedy be discovered than any 
 yet known, it will soon have to retire from the garden, 
 and take up its residence with the foreign grape in glass 
 houses. 
 
 It produces excellent crops trained in espaliers, on a 
 back wall, or a centre trellis of one of those cold grajDeries 
 now becoming so popular. 
 
 Section 8. — Culture, Pruning, and Training Hardy 
 Grape Yines. 
 
 The management of our native grapes is exceedingly 
 simple. Immense crops of Catawba and Isabella, and 
 especially the latter, are raised throughout the country 
 in the entire absence of any systematic mode of training 
 or pruning. A single vine in a neighbor's garden, carried 
 to the flat roof of an outbuilding, and allowed to ram- 
 ble there at pleasure, without any care but a v(3ry imper- 
 
THE GKAPE VINE. 24:7 
 
 feet pruning every spring, produces annually many 
 bushels of fruit. But the quality is, of course, greatly 
 inferior to that produced on well-pruned, trained, and 
 dressed vines. A grape vine neatly trained on a trellis, 
 with its luxuriant ample foliage, and rich pendulous 
 clusters of fruit, is really one of the most interesting 
 objects in a fruit garden, and, at the same time, one of 
 the most profitable ; for the shade and ornament alone 
 that it produces, are a sufficient recompense for its culture. 
 
 In planting a grape vine the first point is to prepare a 
 border for the roots. 
 
 This must, in the first place, be perfectly dry. If the 
 soil or situation be wet or damp, it must be drained 
 thoroughly, so that no stagnant moisture can exist in it. 
 In the next place it must be deep — three feet is a good 
 depth ; and it must not be less than two where abundant 
 and fine crops are expected. The mode of preparation 
 is, to dig out the natural soil to the required depth, and 
 the length and width necessary. For a single vine, the 
 border should be eight or ten feet long and fom' wide. 
 
 When the excavation is made, if the soil be stift' or 
 damp, a few inches, or a foot deep, of small stones, brick, 
 rubbish, etc., may be laid on the bottom as a sort of 
 drainage. On the top of this deposit the compost for the 
 border. This may consist of two parts of good, fresh, 
 friable loam, one of old, well-rotted manure, and one of 
 ashes, shells, broken bones, etc., all completely mixed 
 with one another. The top of the border, when finished, 
 should be at least a foot higher than the surface of the 
 ground, so that it may still remain higher after settling. 
 Having the border thus prepared, the next point is the 
 trellis. The form of this will depend on the situation it 
 is to occupy, and the mode of training to be adopted. 
 Fig. 123 represents one intended for a wall. The prin- 
 
24:8 
 
 PEUNING. 
 
 cipal bars or frame-work are incli and a half boards, three 
 inches wide, nailed together at the angles. 
 
 , ♦ e. » • ■ >— *— ■» 
 
 k —.— I « » ' ■ i ti ■• 
 
 Fig. 123. 
 Trellis for a grape vine. 
 
 It is intended for one vine, and may be the height of 
 the wall that it is intended to occupy. The vertical or 
 upright bars are three feet apart and the cross ones six 
 feet ; between them are rods of stout wire. The first or 
 lowest cross bar may be two feet from the ground. It is 
 fastened to the wall by iron hooks or brackets. The best 
 and simplest mode of training a vine on such a trellis as 
 this, is to j^roduce two main branches or arms to be 
 trained in a horizontal manner on the first cross bar. 
 From these two arms, ]3ermanent, upright canes are 
 trained, one to each of the upright bars of the trellis. 
 These upright canes produce on their sides a succession 
 of bearing shoots from year to year, being pruned after 
 what is called the " spur" system. 
 
 Planting the Vine. — As in planting any other tree, the 
 roots should be carefully spread out, and the fine earth 
 
THE GEAPE YINE. 249 
 
 worked well in amongst tliem. Its position should be 
 exactly in the centre of the trellis it is to be trained on. 
 
 Pruning. — It must first be observed that the grape 
 vine bears its fruit on shoots of the current year, pro- 
 duced from eyes on the previous year's wood. Fig. 124 
 rej^resent the old wood, with its bearing shoot. It is im- 
 
 FiG. 124. 
 Fruit branch of the grape. The cross line towards the points shows where 
 it ought to be stopped. 
 
 portant to understand this, because it shows the necessity 
 of keeping uj) a supj)ly of young wood wherever we 
 desire fruit to be produced. 
 
 To illustrate the pruning, we will suppose the plant to 
 be one or two years old, as ordinarily sent out from the 
 nursery. It may have only one shoot, or it may have 
 several. However this may be, all are pruned off but 
 the strongest, and it is cut back to within two eyes of its 
 base. These two eyes wdll produce shoots, and when 
 they have made a growth of two or three inches, the 
 weaker one is rubbed off and the strong one trained up. 
 It is allowed to grow on till September, when the bud is 
 pinched to mature and strengthen it. Any side shoots 
 that appear during the summer, should be ]3inched off, as 
 well as any suckers that may appear about the roots. 
 
 Second Year. — If the shoot of last year made a strong 
 
 growth of ten or twelve feet, it may be now cut back to 
 
 three eyes, and two canes be trained up ; but if it made 
 
 only a weak growth, it should again be cut back to two 
 
 11^ 
 
250 PETJNING. 
 
 ejefo, and one slioot only trained up. Side shoot^ and 
 suckers are pinched off during the summer ; and in Sep- 
 tember these canes are stopped as before, and no fruit is 
 allowed. 
 
 Third Year. — We have now two strong canes with 
 which w^e connnence the frame-work of the Vvof £ach 
 of these is cut back at the winter pruning to ^'ithin two 
 or three feet of its base, and laid in, as in fig. 125, and 
 fastened to the lower horizontal bar of the trellis. The 
 
 Fig. 125. 
 Grape vine at the beginning of the second year. The arms shortened at c, 
 a, 6, etc., are buds. 
 
 bud on the end of each at <?, wdll produce a shoot to con- 
 tinue the prolongment in a horizontal direction, and a 
 bud {a) on the upper side of each will produce a shoot to 
 be trained to one of the upright bars — the first one on its 
 division, or half of its trellis ; all others are rubbed off, or 
 the buds cut out. Thus each of these arms produces two 
 shoots — an upright and a horizontal one. During the 
 summer, these shoots are carefully tied in as required, 
 and side shoots and suckers pinched off when they ap- 
 pear. They are also topped in September, as before. 
 
 Fourth year. — Each of last year's shoots is cut back 
 to within three feet of its base. It may be necessary 
 to cut the horizontal ones closer than the upright ones, to 
 obtain another strong upright shoot. The two upright 
 canes already established, will produce a shoot from their 
 tops, to continue their extension upwards, and the hori- 
 zontal ones, as before, produce a shoot at the point to be 
 carried outwards, and one on the top to be trained up to 
 one of the upright bars. This year, several fruit shoots 
 
THE GKAPE VINE. 
 
 251 
 
 will be produced, on eiicli of which, one or two bunches 
 of grapes may be ripened. In this way the vine goes on 
 adding every season two new upriglit canes, and two or 
 three feet in length to the previous ones, until the whole 
 trellis is covered ; when the management will consist in 
 ]3runing the spurs every winter to about three eyes. Each 
 fruit branch should only be allowed to produce two 
 bunches of fruit, and the toj) should be pinched at the 
 second eye, or joint above the fruit (see cross line, fig. 
 124), in order to arrest the production of useless wood, 
 and turn the sap to the benefit of the fruit. Fig. 126 
 represents the appearance of a vine trained in this way. 
 
 By such a system 
 as this the trellis is 
 covered in every 
 part with bearing 
 wood, the fruit and 
 the foliage are all 
 exposed fully to the 
 sun, an uniformity of 
 vigor is maintained 
 between the differ- 
 ent parts, and the 
 appearance is beau- 
 tiful. A trellis may be covered with a vine by other 
 modes requiring less labor perhaps, and less time, but none 
 will be found more beneficial or satisfactory in the end. 
 
 In the management of a grape vine, as in the manage- 
 ment of other trees, summer pruning is of great conse- 
 quence. If a vine is left to itself all summer, or from one 
 winter pruning to another, it will be found that a vast 
 quantity of useless wood has been produced, and that to 
 the serious detriment of the bearing shoots for the follow- 
 ing year. Every two weeks the growing vine should be 
 
 Fig. 126. 
 Trained, with horizontal arms. A^ B, supporting 
 vertical permanent canes, spur pruned. 
 
'152 PRUNING. 
 
 %dsited, shoots tied in, strong ones checked, STiperfinous 
 ones rubbed off, and every part kept in its proper jjlace, 
 and in a proper degree of vigor. In certain cases, where 
 the mode of training above described cannot be conveni- 
 ently adopted, two or three poles, twelve to fifteen feet 
 high, may be sunk in the ground, with a space of three or 
 four feet between them at the bottom, and fastened toge- 
 ther at the top, forming a cone, around which the perma- 
 nent canes may be trained in a spiral manner. 
 
 This produces a very beautiful effect, and occupies com- 
 ■^^aratively little space, but the grapes will not all ripen so 
 w^ell, nor will the training be so easy as on the flat surface 
 of a trellis. 
 
 Yery tasteful arbors may also be made over some of the 
 walks, by training the vine over the woodwork, in the 
 same manner as on a trellis. 
 
 This is a very common practice and offers many advan- 
 tages. Ingenious persons who care well for their garden, 
 as well in its appearance as its productions, will conceive 
 other plans still better adapted to their particular wants 
 and taste than any of these; but the main point must 
 always be kept in view, that is, to provide for the foliage 
 and the fruit, a free open exposure to the sun. Any sys- 
 tem that does not secure this, will fiiil to a greater or less 
 extent. 
 
 The Isabella grape succeeds well even as far north as 
 Maine, by laying it down in winter and covering it with 
 mats, straw, boughs of evergreens, &c. 
 
 Yineyard culture. — Vineyards are located on dry sunny 
 hill sides; the land is deeply trenched with the spade or 
 subsoil plough (generally the former, as it is more tho- 
 rough), and liberally manured. The vines are planted in 
 rows, six to eight feet apart, and four to six feet apart in 
 the rows, and are trained to oak or cedar 2306ts, six to eight 
 feet high. The young vines are cut back close for the 
 
THE GEAPE VINE. 258 
 
 first year or two, until they hare become well rooted and 
 strong, and only one shoot is allowed to grow. About 
 the third year, one shoot, six feet long or so, is left to 
 fruit, and a new shoot is carried up that season to bear 
 the next. At the following pruning the cane that bore is 
 cut away, and thus a continual succession is kept up. 
 During the summer suckers and superfluous shoots are 
 kept down, and the ground is kept in good clean condition 
 with a horse cultivator principally. As the vines grow 
 old, two and sometimes three bearing canes are taken 
 from each stool. 
 
 The vineyards of Cincinnati cover several hundred acres, 
 and from the Catawba grape they make a " sparkling 
 champagne," as good as the French. This is destined to 
 be an important branch of culture. 
 
 Culture of foreign Grapes in cold vi7ie7^es. — ^Repeated 
 experiments made during many years in all parts of the 
 country, have convinced people generally that the deli- 
 cious varieties of the foreign grape cannot be produced 
 with any considerable degree of success in the open air. 
 A large number of the hardiest French and German sorts 
 have been tested in our ground, but not one of them has 
 borne satisfactorily. A few good bunches have been 
 obtained the first season or two under very favorable 
 circumstances ; but after that the failure is complete. 
 This has rendered glass, heat, and shelter necessary. 
 
 The huilding. — ^These are constructed of all sizes and 
 at various degrees of expense, from $50 to $500. Some 
 have single lean-to roofs ; others have double or span 
 roofs. The walls of some are built of brick or stone; 
 others are of w^ood, wholly. The cheapest and simplest 
 structure of this kind is the lean-to. The back may be 
 nine or ten feet high, composed of strong cedar posts six 
 feet apart, and boarded up on both sides. The ends are 
 made in the same manner. The front may be two feet 
 
254 PEUNING. 
 
 high, or three, made of posts, and boards or planks, same 
 as the back. Sills or plates are put on the front and back 
 Avails, and then rafters at three and a half to four feet 
 apart. The sashes slip in between the rafters, and rest 
 on a strip of wood on their sides. Unless the grapery be 
 very small, the sash shonld be in two parts, the lower one 
 twice as long as the npper, and fixed. The npper to slide 
 down over the nnder one on pulleys, to ventilate the lionse ; 
 doors are in each end at the back, and means are provided 
 for admitting air in front by the opening of boards like 
 shutters. 
 
 The torcler is made for the vines outside the front wall, 
 or part outside and part in, twelve to sixteen feet wide, 
 also two or three deej). This is done by digging a trench 
 or pit the length and width ; draining it thoroughly, that 
 not a drop of water can lodge about it. Then lay a few 
 inches of small stones, broken bricks, shells, etc., in the 
 bottom for drainage ; and fill up the remainder six inches 
 above the level of the ground, and sloping outw^ards, with 
 a good compost, of one-half surface loam (turf from an old 
 pasture), and the other of well rotted stable manure, 
 shells, street scraj)ings, a small portion of night soil, offal, 
 etc. All these must be prej^ared by frequent turning and 
 mixing a few months beforehand. 
 
 The vines may be one or two years old, and are prefer- 
 able in pots raised from single eyes. They should be 
 planted in the spring. A plant is placed under each 
 rafter outside, and carried through under the wall into the 
 house. The stem is cut back to two or three eyes, and when 
 these break the strongest shoot is selected, and the others 
 pinched off". This shoot is trained, as it grows, to a light 
 trellis of iron, or thick wire rods attached to the rafter, 
 and eight or ten inches from the glass. If all goes well, 
 it reaches the top of the house that season. In September 
 the top may be pinched to check the flow of sap to the 
 
THE GEAPE YTKE. 255 
 
 point, and throw it more into the lateral buds to increase 
 their strength. During the summer no other shoot is 
 allowed to grow but this. 
 
 Pruning. — In November or December it is taken down, 
 pruned, if according to the spur system, which is the sim- 
 plest, to within three or four feet of its base, laid on the 
 ground, and covered with leaves, evergreen boughs, or 
 mats. There it remains till the buds begin to swell in 
 the sj)ring, when it is again fastened to the trellis. The 
 shoot from the terminal bud continues the cane, and no 
 fruit is allowed on it. Those below it produce lateral 
 shoots, from each of which a bunch of grapes may be 
 taken, and each of these must be stoj^ped at two eyes 
 above the bunch ; and this is repeated as often as neces- 
 sary, to give the fruit the whole benefit of the sap. The 
 leading shoot is again stopped in September by pinching 
 off its 23oint, to increase the vigor of its lateral buds. In 
 the fall, when the leaves have dropped, the vine is again 
 taken down. The leader is pruned back to within three 
 to four feet of the old wood. The laterals that have borne 
 are pruned to three eyes, and it is then covered up. This 
 is the routine of spur training. In long cane pruning, the 
 young shoot, after the first season's growth, is cut back 
 to three eyes, and the next season two shoots are trained 
 up. The next season the strongest is selected for fruit, and 
 pruned to about three feet ; each of the eyes left will 
 produce a fruit shoot, from which one bunch only will be 
 taken. The weaker cane is cut back to one eye, and tl lis 
 produces a shoot for next year's bearing, and so this goes 
 on. When the vine becomes strong, several bearing canes 
 may be provided for every season. This renewal or long 
 cane is very simple, and requires much less cutting than 
 the spur. It also produces a superior cjuality of fruit, but 
 in general not so large a quantity. 
 
 Thinning the Fruit. — When the fruit attains the size 
 
256 PEUNING. 
 
 of a garden pea, one third of the smaller ones should be 
 cnt out careful] J with pointed scissors (see im]3lements) 
 that are prepared for this purpose. The object of this is, 
 to allow the fruits to swell out to their full size. Yarie- 
 ties that j^roduce very compact bunches require more 
 severe thinning than those of a loose, open bunch. 
 
 Cleaning the Vine. — At the time the vines are taken 
 from their winter quarters and trellised, thej should be 
 well washed with a solution of soft soap and tobacco 
 water, to kill all eggs of insects, and remove all loose 
 bark and filth that may have accumulated on them dur- 
 ing the season previous. The house, too, should be 
 cleaned and renovated at the same time. 
 
 Syringing the Vines and the Fruit. — Every one who 
 has a grapery must be provided with a good hand syringe, 
 for this is necessary during the whole season. As soon 
 as they begin to grow, they should be occasionally 
 S}Tinged in the morning, except while they are in bloom. 
 After the fruit has set, they should be syringed every 
 evening, and the house kept closed till the next forenoon 
 when the sun is out warm. 
 
 Regulating the temperature. — When the temperature 
 exceeds ninety to one hundred degrees, air should be ad- 
 mitted at the top, and, if necessary, at the bottom. 
 
 To ]}revent mildew. — This may be looked for in July. 
 Syi'inging freely night and morning, and the admission 
 of air during the warmest hours of the day, are the best 
 preventives of this disease. Mr. Allen recommends 
 dusting sulphur on the floor, at the rate of one 230und for 
 every twenty square feet ; and if it continues to increase, 
 to syringe the vines in the evening, and dust the foliage 
 with it. 
 
 Mr. Buist recommends a solution of five pounds of flour 
 of sulphm- in four gallons of water, and after it has set- 
 
THE FILBERT. 257 
 
 tied to add one foui'tli of it to the water used in syring- 
 ing. 
 
 This is but an imperfect outline of the management of 
 a cold grapery. Those who wish full information on all 
 points of the subject, should consult Allen's excellent 
 work, which treats of all kinds of graperies and their 
 management in complete detail. 
 
 Section 9. — Pruning and TradsING the Filbert. 
 
 The filbert in this country is a neglected fruit. It is 
 seldom found in the garden, and more rarely still in a 
 prolific, well-grown condition. Of all other trees, it re- 
 quires regular and proper pruning to maintain its fruitful- 
 ness. The blossoms are monoecious — that is, the male 
 organs which are in long catkins (fig. 36), are produced 
 from one bud, and the female flowers from another. 
 
 The blossom or fruit buds are produced on shoots of one 
 year's growth, and bear fruit the next. The fruit is borne 
 in a cluster on the end of a small twig produced from the 
 bud bearing the female organs. 
 
 It is said that in the neighborhood of Maidstone, county 
 of Kent, England, the filbert orchards occupy several 
 hundred acres, and from these the principal supply of the 
 London market is obtained. One acre has been known to 
 produce £50 sterling, or $250 worth, in one season. The 
 pruning of these Kent growers is supposed to be most 
 perfect of its kind, especially for their soil and climate. 
 It is described as follows in the " Transactions of the Lon- 
 don Horticultural Society :" 
 
 " The suckers are taken from the parent plant generally in the 
 autumn, and planted in nursery beds (being first shortened to ten 
 or twelve inches), where they remain three or four years. They 
 are slightly pruned every year, in order to form strong lateral 
 shoots, the number of which varies from four to six. But though 
 
258 PEUNING. 
 
 it is the usual practice to plant the suckers in nursery beds, I 
 would advise every one to plant them where they are to remain, 
 wliethcr they are intended for a garden or a larger plantation ; 
 and after being suffered to grow without restraint for three or four 
 years, to cut them down within a few inches of the ground. 
 From the remaining part, if the trees are well rooted in the soil, 
 five or six strong shoots will bo produced. Whichever method is 
 practised, the subsequent treatment of the trees will be exactly 
 the same. 
 
 "In the second year after cutting down, these shoots are 
 shortened ; generally one-third is taken off. If very weak, I 
 would advise that the trees be quite cut down a second time, as in 
 the previous spring ; but it would be much better not to cut them 
 down till the trees give evident tokens of their being able to pro- 
 duce shoots of sufficient strength. When they are thus shortened, 
 that they may appear regular, let a small hoop be placed within 
 the branches, to which the shoots are to be fastened at equal dis- 
 tances. By this practice two considerable advantages will be 
 gained — the trees will grow more regular, and the middle will be 
 kept hollow, so as to admit the influence of the sun and air. 
 
 " In the third year a shoot will spring from each bud ; these 
 must be suffered to grow till the following autumn, or fourth year, 
 when they are to be cut off nearly close to the original stem, and 
 the leading shoot of the last year shortened two-tbirds. 
 
 " In the fifth year several small shoots will arise from the bases 
 of the side branches which were cut off the preceding year ; these 
 are produced from small buds, and would not have been emitted 
 had not the branch on which they are situated been shortened, 
 the whole nourishment being carried to the upper part of the 
 branch. It is from these shoots that fruit is to be expected. 
 These productive shoots will in a few years become very numerous, 
 and many of them must be taken off, particularly the strongest, 
 in order to encourage the production of the smaller ones ; for 
 those of the former year become so exhausted that they generally 
 decay ; but whether decayed or not, they are always cut out by 
 the pruner, and a fresh supply must therefore be provided to pro- 
 duce the fruit in the succeeding year. The leading shoot is every 
 
THE FILBERT. 259 
 
 year to be shortened two-thirds, or more should the tree be weak, 
 and the whole height of the branches must not exceed six feet. 
 
 " The method of pruninir above detailed might, in a few words, 
 be called a method of spurring, by which bearing shoots are pro- 
 duced, which otherwise would have had no existence. Old trees 
 are easily induced to bear in this manner, by selecting a sufficient 
 number of the main branches, and then cutting the side shoots 
 off nearly close, excepting any should be so situated as not to 
 interfere with the others, and there should be no main branch di- 
 rected to that particular part. It will, however, be two or three 
 years before the full effect will be produced. By the above 
 method of pruning, thirty hundred per acre have been grown in 
 particular grounds and in particular years, yet twenty hundred is 
 considered a large crop, and rather more than half that quantity 
 may be called a more usual one ; and even then the crop totally 
 fails three years out of five ; so that the annual average quantity 
 cannot be reckoned at more than five hundred per acre. 
 
 " When I reflected upon the reason of failure happening so 
 often as three years out of five, it occurred to me that possibly 
 it might arise from the excessive productiveness of the other two. 
 In order to ensure fruit every year, I haVe usually left a large pro- 
 portion of those shoots which, from their strength, I suspected 
 would not be so productive of blossom-buds as the shorter ones ; 
 leaviog them more in a state of nature than is usually done, not 
 pruning them so closely as to weaken the trees by excessive bear- 
 ing, nor leaving them so entirely to their natural growth, as to 
 cause their annual productiveness to be destroyed by a superfluity 
 of wood. These shoots, in the spring of the year, I have usuall- 
 shortened to a blossom-bud." 
 
 Such is the management of these celebrated filbert 
 growers, their principal object being to keep the trees 
 small, open in the centre, and covered in every j^art with 
 fruit spurs. A similar system, but less severe in the cut- 
 ting back, may be pursued here ; some such course of 
 treatment as recommended for the head of the quince as 
 to form and fruitfidness. 
 
260 PRUNING. 
 
 Instead of relying on the spring pruning to subdue 
 vigor and induce fruitfulness, pinching should be j)rac- 
 tised during the summer; for this not only checks the 
 production of wood, but of roots. Root pruning, too, may 
 be safely practised in August, when j)i'iining and pinch- 
 ing of the branches prove insufficient. 
 
 In all cases, suckers must be completely eradicated 
 every season, or as soon as they make their appearance. 
 The want of pruning, and the growth of suckers, make 
 the filbert in nearly all our gardens completely barren ; a 
 rank production of wood only is obtained year after year. 
 
 "We find that grafting the finer kinds on stocks of the 
 common filbert raised from seed, renders the trees much 
 more prolific naturally, and also smaller in size. We 
 have trees here now bearing only three years from the 
 graft ; the stems are eighteen inches to two feet high, and 
 they are very j)retty. Their natural vigor is greatly sub- 
 dued by the graft. The French conduct them in pyramids 
 with great success, on the same principle as other trees. 
 
 Section 10. — Culture, Pruning, and Training or the Fig. 
 
 In the JsTorthern States the fig is cultivated with very 
 little success in the open ground, but fine crops are pro- 
 duced in the vineries recommended for foreign grapes ; 
 and it is in these only that its culture can yield any con- 
 siderable degree of satisfaction, north of Maryland at 
 least. 
 
 Propagation. — The surest and best mode is by layers. 
 A large branch may be layered in the spring, and will be 
 sufficiently rooted in the fall to be planted out. Cuttings 
 also strike freely, and make good plants in one season. 
 All the modes of propagation recommended for the 
 quince, may be applied to the fig. Cuttings are generall'^ 
 preferred in the South. 
 
THE FIG. 261 
 
 Soil. — It succeeds in any good rich, warm garden soil, 
 suitable for other fruit trees. In very light or dry soils 
 the fniits fall before maturity, as they require at that 
 season in particular a large amount of moisture ; but it is 
 better that it be too dry than too moist, for in the latter 
 case nothing but soft unripe and unfruitful shoots is 
 obtained, whilst in the former moisture can be supplied at 
 the time when it may be required. The wood should be 
 short-jointed, the buds not more than one-fourth of an 
 inch apart. In England dry chalky soils produce the 
 finest crops. 
 
 Pruning. — ^The fig is somewhat ^^eculiar in its mode of 
 bearing. ]^o blossoms apj^ear, but the figs are produced 
 on the stem, appearing at first like buds. The young 
 shoots of last season bear fruit the next; and the shoots 
 produced during first growth produce fruit the same 
 season, and this is called the " second crop." These never 
 ripen, and should never be encouraged where the plants 
 require protection. In warm climates, as in some of our 
 Southern States, these two crops ripen perfectly, though 
 the first from the previous season's wood is larger and 
 better. 
 
 This mode of bearing shows that little pruning is neces- 
 sary, beyond the cutting away of old or worn out branches, 
 and thinning and regulating others. Unfruitful trees, in 
 a moist and rich ground, should be pinched in summer to 
 check their growth, and concentrate the sap more in the 
 lateral buds. Hoot Pruning^ too, may be applied as on 
 other trees. Mr. Downing recommends this in his Fruit 
 and Fruit Trees. 
 
 Training. — Wherever the trees are hardy enough to 
 withstand the winter without protection, they may be 
 grown in the form of low standards, as recommended for 
 the peach ; but when protection is required, where the 
 branches have to be laid down and covered during winter, 
 
262 PRUNING. 
 
 they must be grown in stools or bnshes, with a dozen or 
 more stems rising from the socket. These are easily laid 
 down and covered, and easily brought up to their places 
 again, in the w^ay that raspberry canes are managed. To 
 produce this form, the young tree is planted in the bottom 
 of a trench about a third deeper than in ordinary cases, and 
 a basin is left around it. At the end of the first season's 
 grow^th, it is cut back to a few inches of the base ; there a 
 number of shoots are produced. As these grow up the 
 earth is drawn in around them, to favor the production 
 of other shoots at their base ; and in this way it is 
 managed until the requisite number of branches is ob- 
 tained. 
 
 Protection. — ^Trained in this way, a trench is opened for 
 each branch, or three or four may be put in one trench, 
 if convenient ; they are fastened down with hooked pegs 
 as in layering, and covered with a foot of earth, which 
 should be drawn up in the mound form, to throw off the 
 w^ater. 
 
 Ripening the fruit. — In fig growing countries, and to 
 some extent here, there is a practice of applying a drop of 
 olive oil to the eye of the fruit, to hasten its maturity. 
 This is usually done by means of a straw. 
 
 Training in Grai?erie8. — The back wall of a lean-to cold 
 vinery is an excellent place for the fig. It may be 
 trained on a trellis in the fan or horizontal manner, but 
 severe pruning must not be practised to produce regu- 
 larity. 
 
 Section 11. — Pruning the Gooseberry. 
 
 The gooseberry produces fruit buds and spurs on wood 
 two years old and upwards. Fig. 127 represents the two- 
 year-old wood, ^, with fruit buds (7, (7, and B, the one- 
 
THE GOOSEBEKIil*. 
 
 263 
 
 year old wood with wood buds, D^ D. Of 
 these wood buds, the upper one next season 
 would produce a shoot, and the lower ones 
 would probably be transformed into fruit 
 buds. At the base of one of the fruit buds, 
 C, may be seen a small wood bud d ; this 
 during next season will produce a small 
 shoot or spur. The great point to aim at in 
 this country, must always be to maintain a 
 vigorous condition; the moment the plant 
 becomes feeble or stinted, the fruit is so at- 
 tacked with mildew or rust as to be utterly 
 worthless. Hence it is that young plants 
 usually bear excellent crops for the first or 
 second year, while after that the mildew is 
 in some varieties and situations unconquer- 
 able. 
 
 The bush should have a stem of three or 
 four inches in height, and a head composed 
 of five or six main branches, placed at equal 
 
 Fig. 127. 
 [ranch of the 
 
 distances and inclined outwards, to prevent gooseberry, j, two 
 
 year old wood, B, 
 one year, C. C, 
 fruit buds, D. D' 
 wood buds, d, a 
 small wood bud at 
 the base of fruit 
 bud C. 
 
 denseness and confusion in the centre. 
 These main branches should be furnished 
 with bearing wood in all their length. The 
 production of such a bush may be accom- 
 j)lished by the following means : 
 
 Supposing the young plant as it comes from the nurser}^ 
 to be either a two-year old cutting, or a one-year bedded 
 layer, in either case it will have a stem of two or three 
 inches at least, and a few branches at the toj). Before 
 planting, all the buds on the part of the stem to be below 
 the ground are cut out, to prevent them from producing 
 suckers. Among the branches, three of those most favor- 
 ably situated, are selected for the formation of the head, 
 
264 PRUNING. 
 
 and the others are cut out entirely. The reserved branches 
 are then cut back to two or three buds ; from these one 
 shoot is taken on each branch, and the others are pinched 
 to favor this. By this method we shall have three stout 
 shoots in the fall. If the plant had been well rooted, in- 
 stead of being newly transjDlanted, we might have taken 
 two shoots instead of one from each shortened branch. 
 These three branches are cut back at the next pruning to 
 three or four buds, and from each two new shoots are 
 taken, giving at the end of that season six stout young 
 shoots, situated at equal distances. At the next or third 
 2)runing these branches are cut back about one-half, in 
 order to produce lateral branches and fruit spurs. At the 
 fourth pruning, the leading shoot is shortened one-third 
 to one-half. Any lateral branches not required to fill up 
 spaces, or such as are improperly placed, are cut back to 
 three or four buds, so as to convert them into fruit 
 branches. 
 
 In this w^ay the pruning is conducted from year to year. 
 "When the plants become feeble from overbearing, the 
 fruit branches may be headed down and replaced by new 
 vigorous shoots. The better way, however, to provide 
 for this difficulty, is to raise young plants from layers or 
 cuttings, to be at once substituted for such as fall a victim 
 to the mildew. A northern aspect, a cool, damp, substan- 
 tial soil, and abundance of manure, are all necessary, in 
 connection with the pruning described, to produce fine 
 gooseberi'ies. 
 
 The famous growers of Lancashire, England, outdo all 
 the world besides in the production of large gooseberries. 
 Tlie Encyclopaedia of Gardening says — " To effect this 
 increased size, every stimulant is applied that their inge- 
 nuity can suggest ; they not only annually manm-e tlie soil 
 richly, but also surround the plants with trenches of ma- 
 nure for the extremities of the roots to strike into, and 
 
THE CURRANT. 265 
 
 form round tlie stem of each plant a basin, to be miilclied, 
 or manured, or watered, as may become necessary. "When 
 a root has extended too far from the stem it is uncovered, 
 and all the strongest leaders are shortened back nearly 
 one-half of their length,* and covered with fresh marly loam, 
 well manured. The effect of this pruning is to increase 
 the number of fibres and spongioles, which form rapidly 
 on the shortened roots, and strike out in all directions 
 among the fresh, newly stirred loam, in search of nutri- 
 ment. 
 
 They also practise what they term sucMing their prize 
 fruit. By preparing a very rich soil, and by watering, 
 and the use of liquid manure, shading and thinning, the 
 large fruit of the prize cultivator is produced. IsTot con- 
 tent with watering at root, and over the top, the Lanca- 
 shire connoisseur, when he is growing for exhibition, 
 places a small saucer of water immediately under each 
 gooseberry, only three or four of which he leaves on a 
 tree; this he technically calls suckling. He also pinches 
 off a great part of the young wood, so as to throw all the 
 strength he can into the fruit. 
 
 Section 12. — Pruning and Management of the 
 Currant. 
 
 The red and white currants bear like the gooseberry on 
 wood not less than two years old, and, therefore, the same 
 system of pruning may be applied to them. The most 
 convenient and easily-managed form in which they can 
 be grown, is that of a bush or small tree, with a stem of 
 three to six inches high, and a head composed of a cer- 
 tain number, say six or eight principal branches, situated 
 at equal distances, and not nearer to one another at the 
 extremities than six or eight inches. 
 
 These brandies are produced by cutting back the 
 12 
 
266 PKUNING. 
 
 young slioots found on tlie nursery j^lant, as recommended 
 for the gooseberry. They are afterwards annually short- 
 ened to produce lateral branches, when wanted, and 
 fruit spurs. Care must be taken not to prune too close, as 
 this causes the buds on the lower parts to make wood 
 instead of fruit spurs : one third, and in many cases one 
 fourth, will be quite sufficient. 
 
 Tlie Currant as a Pyramid. — The currant is very easily 
 formed into pretty pyramids. The mode of conducting 
 them will be similar to that recommended for other 
 trees. 
 
 A good strong shoot must first be obtained to com- 
 mence upon ; this is cut back, and laterals produced as 
 though it were a yearling cherry tree. Summer pruning 
 and pinching must be duly put in practice, under any 
 form, to keep up an equality of growth among the shoots, 
 and to check misplaced and superfluous ones. This will 
 obviate a great deal of cutting at the winter or spring 
 pruning. Mr. Rivers, in his " Miniature Fruit Garden," 
 says : " A near neighbor of mine, an ingenious gardener, 
 attaches much value, and with reason, to his pyramidal 
 currant trees ; for his table is supplied abundantly with 
 their fruit till late in autumn. The leading shoots of his 
 trees are fastened to iron rods ; they form nice pyramids 
 about five feet high ; and by the clever contrivance of 
 slipping a bag made of coarse muslin over them as soon 
 as the fruit is ripe, fastening it securely at the bottom, 
 wasps, birds, flies, and all the ills that beset ripe currants 
 are excluded." 
 
 The Currant as an Espalier. — It is sometimes desirable, 
 both to economize space and to retard the period of ripen- 
 ing, to train currants on a north w^all or trellis ; and this 
 is very easily done with success. We have seen the north 
 side of a neighbor's garden fence completely covered 
 with currants without any system whatever being pur- 
 
THE RASPEEKKY. 26Y 
 
 sued in laying in the branches. The plants were about 
 five feet apart, and the branches were fastened to the 
 wall in a sort of fan form. The proper way to treat the 
 currant as an espalier is, to produce two strong branches 
 on a stem six to twelve inches high. These branches are 
 trained out in a horizontal manner like two arms — one on 
 each side ; and from the shoots which they will produce, 
 as many as are to be had at the distance of six inches 
 from one another are trained in an upright position, as in 
 the grape vine (fig. 121). 
 
 These upright shoots are managed in the same way as 
 the branches of a bush ; they are annually shortened back 
 a little to ensure a good supply of fruit buds. 
 
 The hlack currant produces its best fruit on the wood 
 of the preceding year, therein differing from the others. 
 In pruning it, the young wood must be preserved, and 
 branches that have borne must be cut back to produce a 
 succession of new bearing wood, as in the filbert. 
 
 Mamiring. — No other fruit tree is so patient under bad 
 treatment as the currant, and yet none yields a more 
 prompt or abundant reward for kindness. In addition to 
 the annual pruning described, the bushes should receive 
 a dressing of old, well-prepared manure, two or three 
 inches deep, spread all around as far as the roots go, 
 and forked lightly in. It is a great feeder, and, with- 
 out these annual dressings, the soil becomes so poor that 
 the fruit is really not w^orth gathering. 
 
 PLANTING, PRUNING, AND TRAINING THE RASPBERRY. 
 
 Planting. — ^The raspberry succeeds well in all good 
 garden soils. The most advantageous and economical 
 position for a raspberry bed in the garden, is generally in 
 the wall border, facing north. In this situation the fruit 
 ripens sufficiently, and the canes are not so liable to suffer 
 
268 
 
 PRUNING. 
 
 from alternate freezing and thawing in the winter. The 
 young canes or snckers are shortened full one half, and 
 planted at the distance of two or three feet. Any flowers 
 that make their appearance on them the first season 
 should be removed, in order to turn all the sap to the 
 benefit of the leaves and new roots, and the production 
 of a young cane for the next season. 
 
 Pruning.- — ^The stem is biennial — that is, the canes 
 are produced one season and bear fruit the next, and then 
 die. For example, in fig. 128, A is the old cane that has 
 borne, and is of no further use. B is 
 the young cane produced at its base 
 last season. The fruit buds produce 
 small shoots, «, a^ <^, that bear the 
 fruit. The pruning is very sim]3le ; 
 it consists merely in cutting away 
 early in the spring the old cane that 
 has borne. Some people do this as 
 soon as the fruit is gathered, on the 
 ground that the young cane is 
 strengthened by so doing ; but this is 
 questionable. It may be, on the 
 whole, safer to leave it to finish its 
 natural course, and cut it away at the 
 spring or winter pruning. 
 
 The young cane is shortened to 
 three feet, or three and a half or four, 
 if it be quite stout and vigorous. When the plants have 
 been a year or two in their place, several canes will be 
 produced from one stool in the same season ; but three 
 or four only are reserved, and these the strongest. Each 
 one is pruned or shortened as above, in order to concen- 
 trate the sap on the bearing buds on the centre and lower 
 parts. This not only increases the size, but improves the 
 quality of the fruit. When the suckers become very 
 
 Fig. 128. 
 
 The Raspberry. A, the 
 old cane that has borne 
 and will be cut away. B, 
 the young cane for next 
 season, to be shortened at 
 cross line b. C, radical 
 bud, to produce a cane 
 next season. 
 
THE KASPBEEEY. 
 
 269 
 
 numerous, they enfeeble the j)lant, and it soon becomes 
 worthless. The new ever-bearing variety throws up a 
 great profusion. All the weaker superfluous ones should 
 be carefully removed w^ith a trowel early in the season, 
 say when they have attained five or six inches of growth. 
 In selecting such as are to be reserved, preference should 
 be given to those being nearest in the regular row of 
 plants. Some of the French authors recommend leaving 
 a hole ten or twelve inches deej) around each plant at the 
 time of planting, to be filled up gradually, three or four 
 inches a year, with fresh earth, to promote the formation 
 of vigorous radical buds, at the collar of the root, as re- 
 commended for the fig. 
 
 Manuring. — A liberal dressing of well-decomposed 
 manure should be given them every fall, worked care- 
 fully in among the roots with the digging fork. With 
 this treatment a bed will continue productive for seven 
 years at least. 
 
 Training. — Mr. Dubriel describes a very pretty and 
 simple method of training practised in France, and I had 
 the pleasure of seeing it carried into practice in the 
 Eouen Garden (fig. 129). 
 
 Fig. 129. 
 French mode of training the raspberry to stakes and ropes. 
 
 The railing ^, is a narrow strip of board, or a small 
 pole, supported on upright stakes ; it is eighteen inches 
 from the row of plants, and three feet from the ground. 
 When the young bearing canes are pruned in the spring, 
 
270 
 
 PRUNING. 
 
 tliey are bent over and fastened to this rail ; and thns the 
 yonng snckers grow up without mixing with the fruit 
 branches ; consequently the fruit ripens better and is 
 more easily gathered. During the summer, when the 
 young suckers destined to bear the year following, have 
 reached the height of two feet, they are fastened to a 
 similar rail on the other side of the row, and the same 
 distance from the line of the ground. 
 
 The following is an English mode of training described 
 in the " London Gardeners' Chronicle." In fig. 130, the 
 
 Fig. 130. 
 English mode of training the raspberry. 
 
 uprights between every two or three plants are iron, and 
 the horizontal lines to which the canes are attached, are 
 tarred rope. 
 
 In fig. 131, the plants are supposed to be placed in 
 rows four feet apart, and about the same distance from 
 one another in the row. The number of shoots on each 
 
 Fio. 131. 
 English mode oi training the raspberry to stakes. 
 
 is regulated during the growing season, no more ])j*ii 
 
RENOVATING APPLE AND PEAR TEEES. 271 
 
 allowed to remain than the plant is capable of sn23port- 
 ing. In most cases six or eight shoots will be sufficient. 
 AVliere this method is practised, a row of raspberries in 
 autumn will have something of the appearance repre- 
 sented in fig. 131 ; the arched portion, tied to the stake 
 in the centre, being the canes wdiich bore fruit last year, 
 and which must be cut down to the bottom, and be re- 
 placed by the upright shoots of last summer. 
 
 In this last arrangement, live or six fruit-bearing canes 
 are tied together to one stake, and it is impossible that 
 the fruit can either ripen well or be gathered easily. The 
 two first are good and simple plans. 
 
 Renovating pyramidal trees of Apples and Pears that 
 have heconie enfeebled or unproductive hy age^ bad soil^ 
 hearing^ or hadijrxming, — There are two methods of doing 
 this successfully ; one is, to cut back all parts of the tree — 
 the stem may be cut back half its length, the lateral 
 branches at the base to w^ithin tw^elve or fifteen inches of 
 the stem, and shorter as they advance upwards, so that 
 those at the top will be cut to fom' or six inches. This 
 will preserve the pyramidal forin. 
 
 It may appear unnecessary to cut back the stem, but 
 we find when this is not done it is almost impossible to 
 secure an equal growth between the upper and lower 
 parts, because the wood at the top is yomig, and attracts 
 the sap much more than the w^ood at the base of the old 
 branches below. For a few years after this renewal the 
 young wood at the top must be kept very closely pruned, 
 to prevent it from absorbing more than its due pro- 
 portion of the sap. When growth commences on trees 
 thus cut back, a large number of shoots w^ill be produced. 
 Amongst those on the stem, a strong and well placed one 
 must be selected for a leader, and its growth favored by 
 checking those around it. Leaders for each of the lateral 
 bi-anches must be selected and encouraojed in the same 
 
2T2 PEIJNING. 
 
 way. The future management will be similar to that 
 described for tlie formation of young trees. "We have 
 succeeded well with a large number of trees thus treated. 
 Where the soil is defective, it must be improved and 
 renewed with fresh soil and composts, so that abundant 
 nutriment shall be given to the new growth. 
 
 The second method of renewal referred to is, that of 
 cutting back as already described, and grafting each 
 branch. 
 
 The process of regrafting old orchards of standard 
 apple trees, it is well known, renews their vigor, and 
 replaces old worn out and deformed branches with young 
 and vigorous ones, giving to the entire head a healthy and 
 youthful appearance. In many cases this grafting will 
 be much more successful than simply cutting back, for 
 the scions being furnished with young and active buds, 
 that develope leaves at once, attract the sap from the 
 roots, place it in contact with the atmosphere, and carry 
 on the formative process in all parts of the tree with less 
 interruption and greater activity than where reliance is 
 placed upon the production of new shoots on the old wood ; 
 for this must be effected by awakening dormant buds, 
 which in many cases takes place slowly, and with more 
 or less difficulty. 
 
 SUNDKY OPEEATIONS CONNECTED WITH THE CULTUEE OF FKTJIT 
 
 TEEES. 
 
 1st. The annual cultivation of tJie soil. — ^The soil around 
 fruit trees should, especially in the garden, be kept in a 
 clean friable condition by the frequent use of the hoe and 
 the spade ; but in all these operations the roots must not 
 be injured. The forked spade (see imj^lements) is the best 
 for operating about the roots. 
 
 2d. Jfanuring. — ^Tlie very common practice in regard 
 
WATEKING, ETC. 273 
 
 to the use of manure, is to apply none for several years, 
 until the trees have begun to show signs of feebleness and 
 exhaustion, when large quantities are applied, thus in- 
 ducing a rank plethoric growth, that can scarcely fail to 
 be seized with diseases. The proper way is to apply a 
 small dressing of well-decomposed material, like some of 
 the composts recommended, every autumn. This should 
 be forked in around the extremities of the roots. There 
 may be rich soils where this will be unnecessary ; but 
 most ordinary garden soils require it. 
 
 3d. Mulcldng. — This should be a universal practice in 
 our dry and warm summer climate, not only with newly- 
 planted trees, but all, and especially dwarfs in the garden 
 whose roots are near the surface. Three or four inches 
 deep of half decayed stable manure or litter makes a 
 good mulching. It should be applied in May, and remain 
 all summer. After the fall dressing a mulching for the 
 winter will protect the roots and base of the tree from 
 injury; it should be so well decayed as not to attract 
 vermin. 
 
 4th. Watering. — In dry times, and especially in light, 
 dry soils, fruit trees will derive vast benefits from a liberal 
 syringing over head in the evening, with a hand or garden 
 syringe (see implements). A reservoir in the garden is 
 therefore desirable, and at a point, too, easy of access from 
 all the quarters of the garden. This watering refreshes 
 the trees, drives away insects, mildew, etc., and washes 
 off dust and filth that may accumulate on the foliage and 
 fill up the pores. It is more necessary in city and village, 
 than in country gardens. 
 
 Protecting trees against extremes of temperature. — 
 "Where the trunk or large branches are liable to injury 
 from sudden changes of temperature in the winter, or 
 from a powerful sun in summer, they may be covered 
 thinly with long rye straw, fastened on with willows, 
 12- 
 
274 CULTURE OF FEriT TEEES. 
 
 The trunk alone is more easily protected by means of two 
 boards nailed together, forming an angle for the tree. 
 This is placed on the sonth side, the injury being induced 
 chiefly by the sun at both seasons. 
 
 Newly-transplanted trees, especially if they have tall 
 trunks, and are somewhat injured before planting, may 
 be saved by wrapping them lightly with straw ; — a straw 
 rope rolled around answers the purpose. A little damp 
 moss is still better ; an occasional watering will keep it 
 cool and moist, and enable the sap to flow under the bark. 
 
PART IV. 
 
 SELECT VARIETIES OF FRUITS— GATHERING AND PRE- 
 SERVING FRUITS-DISEASES— INSECTS— IMPLEMENTS IN 
 CO.MMON USE. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 ABRIDGED DESCRIPTIONS OF SELECT VARIETIES OP 
 ERUITS. 
 
 The accumulation of varieties of fruits within the last 
 ten years has been so great, that anything like a complete 
 description, or account of them all, would in itself exceed 
 the bounds of a moderate sized volume. Taken alto- 
 gether, there are perhaps at this moment no fewer than one 
 thousand different 'varieties under cultivation. To trace 
 out the history, the peculiar characters and merits of 
 these, must be the work of the pomologist, and forms no 
 part in the design of this treatise. In making the follow- 
 ing selections, and in describing them, pomological system 
 and minuteness have not been deemed necessary, nor would 
 they be practicable within the necessary limits. 
 
 The main object aimed at is, to bring to the notice of 
 cultivators the hest 'varieties^ those which ample experi- 
 ence has proved to be really valuable^ or which upon a 
 partial trial give strong indications of becoming so. 
 IS'othing is more embarrassing to the inexperienced culti- 
 vator than long lists ; and many will no doubt be inclined 
 to think that a large number of the following varieties 
 might very well be dispensed with. But it must be 
 remembered that our country, even the great fruit grow- 
 ing regions of it, possesses different climates, that there 
 are various qualities of soils, various tastes and circum- 
 stances of individuals to be provided for. A dozen or 
 
Z^b SELECT VARIETIES OF FKUITS. 
 
 twenty sorts of apples or pears may be as many as one 
 person may require ; but it does not follow that these vari- 
 eties only are to be cultivated, for it is very probable that 
 another individual, residing even in the same State, would 
 make a selection entirely different. ^New York, Massa- 
 chusetts, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Kentucky, and 
 other States, have all varieties of their own; and by the 
 time each has made a selection, our one hundred and fifty 
 varieties will be approj^riated, and a deficiency still exist 
 in all probability. "We are not of those wdio cry out 
 against new varieties. On the contrary, w^e look upon 
 every one of real excellence as an additional blessing to 
 the fruit growers and to society, for which they should be 
 duly thankful. The only thing to be observed in regard 
 to them is, that before entering into general cultivation 
 they should be fairly and carefully Jtested under various 
 circutQstances. Some well meaning persons make a great 
 cry out against nurserymen and others, whose business it 
 is to experiment, for extending their lists, or noticing new 
 varieties. If such a spirit had prevailed, how would oui 
 fruits have been to-day ? 
 
 It is by no means presumed that the following lists are 
 perfect, even as far as they go. I^o individual possesses 
 such a thorough knowledge of the various soils and cli- 
 mates of our country, or of the • varieties of fruits best 
 adapted to them, as to enable him to recommend with in- 
 fallible correctness special lists for all localities. 
 
 In attempting this, reliance must be placed upon the 
 experience and reports of others, and these are always 
 liable to be biased by tastes or prejudices. These things 
 have been kept in view, and wherever recommendations 
 are made beyond our own knowledge and experience, 
 they are based upon the most reliable authority, and it is 
 hoped will not be found wholly unserviceable to those 
 especially who have neither had experience nor accoss to 
 
APPLES. 279 
 
 sources of extensive and minute information. Those who 
 are not satisfied with the abridged descriptions, are 
 referred to works more strictly pomological ; such as 
 ^^Downinr/s Fruit and Fruit Trees^'' '-'' Thomas' s Amer- 
 ican Fruit Culturist^'' '''' Hovey^s Fruits of America f^ 
 besides, Hovey^s Monthly Magazine^ The Horticidturist^ 
 Genesee Farmer^ and other periodicals, where all new and 
 rare fruits are noticed and described. 
 
 FIRST DIVISION.— KERNEL FRUIT— APPLES, PEARS AND 
 
 QUINCES. 
 
 Section 1, — Select Apples. 
 
 CLASS I. summer apples. 
 
 1. American Summer Pearmain. — Medium size, oblong, 
 skin smooth, red and yellow; tender, juicy and rich. 
 Tree a slow, but erect and handsome grower; bears early 
 and abundantly ; one of the best in nearly all parts of the 
 country. — September. 
 
 2. Astracluvn^ Red. — Large, roundish, nearly covered 
 with deep crimson, and a thick bloom like a plum ; juicy, 
 rich, acid ; one of the most beautifid apples. The tree is a 
 vigorous grower w^ith large foliage, and a good bearer. — 
 Russian. — August. 
 
 3. Benoni. — Medium size, round, red; flesh tender, 
 juicy and rich ; a good bearer and strong upright grower. 
 — From Massachusetts. — August. 
 
 4. Bought Large Sweet (Large yellow bough of Down- 
 ing). — Large, pale yellow, sweet, rich flavored. Tree a 
 moderate, compact grower, and abundant bearer. — Aug. 
 
 5. Bevan^s Favorite. — A new Jersey aj)ple, where it is 
 esteemed as one of the best of its season. Medium size, 
 roundish striped, sub-acid and good. — August. 
 
 6. Bohanan. — A very delicious high-flavord apple 
 
280 SELECT VARIETIES OF FUTJITS. 
 
 of Kentucky. Eoundisli, or inclining to oval, deep yellow. 
 Yery tender, sprightly and fine. — August to October. 
 
 Y. Caroline Red June. — A very early and good apple, 
 cultivated considerably in Michigan, Wisconsin, &c. 
 About as large as the Summer Queen. Have seen good 
 specimens from Kalamazoo. 
 
 8. Early Harvest. — Medium to large size, round, pale 
 yellow, rich sub-acid. Tree a moderate grower, but erect 
 and handsome, and a good bearer. — Last of July to Aug. 
 
 9. Early Strawberry. — Medium size, smooth and fair, 
 mostly covered with deep red; tender, almost melting, 
 with a mild, fine fiavor. Tree a moderate, erect grower, 
 and a good bearer; a beautiful and excellent variety for 
 both orchard and garden. — Middle to end of August. 
 
 10. Early Joe. — A beautiful and delicious, small sized, 
 deep red apj)le. Tree rather a slow, but upright grower, 
 and a most profuse bearer ; originated in Ontario County, 
 ]^. Y. — Last of August. 
 
 11. Early Chandler. — ^Medium size, roundish, striped, 
 good quality. Originated in Connecticut, but is exten- 
 sively cultivated in some jjarts of Ohio, where it succeeds 
 well. The tree is vigorous and erect. — August and Sept. 
 
 12. Early Pennock. — ^This variety is quite popular in 
 some districts of Ohio, and very little known elsewhere. 
 It is described as a magnificent, large, conical, yellow and 
 red apple, ripening there the middle of August. 
 
 13. Garretson^s Early. — Medium size, greenish yellow 
 tender, juicy and pleasant. Tree vigorous, very produc- 
 tive, and bears young. Noticed first in Hovey's Magazine, 
 September, 1848. Supposed to have originated in ]^ew 
 Jersey ; not much disseminated. — July and August. 
 
 14. Golden Sweeting.— L^^rgQ^ roundish, pale yellow, a 
 very fair, fine, sweet apple. Tree a strong grower, spread- 
 ing and irregular ; a good bearer. — August. 
 
 15. Keswick Codlin.—LsiTge, oblong, pale yellOw, acid. 
 
APPLES. 281 
 
 Tree erect and very vigorous ; bears when quite young and 
 abundantly; excellent for cooking from July to October. 
 
 16. Lyman^s Large Summer. — Large, roundish, pale 
 yellow, rich and excellent. The tree requires shortening 
 like the peach, to keep up a pro23er supply of young shoots, 
 as they bear only on the ends. — August. 
 
 17. Manomet (Horseblock Apple). — ^This is an excellent 
 late summer, sweet apple, originated near Plymouth, Mas- 
 sachusetts, and named by Mr. John Washburn of that 
 town. It is described in Hovey's Magazine, September, 
 1848, as " one of the finest early sweet apples," " having 
 a deep yellow skin, and a bright vermillion cheek." The 
 tree is vigorous and a good bearer. — August and Sept. 
 
 18. OsUn (Oslin Pippin, Arbroath Pippin). — A famous 
 Scotch apple, succeeds well in Upper Canada. Medium 
 size, roundish, yellow ; fi^esh juicy, rich and fine. Tree 
 productive. — xlugust and September. 
 
 19. Ornes Early. — Large, yelloAv, wdth a dull, red 
 cheek, tender, juicy and fine. Imported from France to 
 Massachusetts without a name, and afterwards described 
 in Hovey's Magazine under this title. The tree is a strong 
 grower. 
 
 20. Summei' Belle-fleur. — ^This is a very fine, late sum- 
 mer apple, raised by John K. Comstock, of Duchess 
 County, from a seed of the Esopus Spitzenburgh ; it resem- 
 bles the yellow belle-fleur in form and color, and is de- 
 scribed by Mr. Downing, Hortimiltiirist.^ vol. 3, as " decid- 
 edly superior to Porter, William's favorite, or any summer 
 apple of its season." Tree strong and upright. 
 
 21. Sum^mer Sioeet Paradise. — A large fine, sweet 
 apple, from Pennsylvania; round, greenish yellow, juicy, 
 sweet and rich. — August and September. 
 
 22. Sine-qua-non. — Medium size, greenish yellow ; flesh 
 tender and fine flavored. Tree a slender, slow grower, 
 
282 SELECT VAEIETIES OF FEUITS. 
 
 but bears well. Originated on Long Island by tne late 
 William Prince. — Angnst. 
 
 23. Summer Rose (Woolman's Early) .^Medium size, 
 roundish, pale yellow, with a red cheek, tender and deli- 
 cious; has a most beautiful waxen appearance. Tree 
 rather a slow grower, but a good bearer. — Middle to end 
 of August. 
 
 24. Swnmer Queen. — Large, conical, striped and clouded 
 with red ; rich and fine flavored. Tree grows rather irre- 
 gular, with a large spreading head. — August. 
 
 25. Sojys of Wine. — Medium size, conical, dark crim- 
 son flesh stained with red, tender and delicious. Tlie tree 
 is a fine grower and bearer, and the fruit remains a long 
 time in use ; known as the " Pie Apj)le" about Oswego. 
 — August and September. 
 
 26. Summer Scarlet Peannain (Bell's Scarlet) English. 
 ■ — Medium to large, conical, mostly covered v/ith crimson ; 
 flesh stained * with red ; tender and good. Trees grow 
 freely, and bear young and abundantly. — Aug. and Sept. 
 
 27. Williams' Favorite. — Large, oblong, red, rich and 
 excellent, a moderate grower and good bearer; highly 
 esteemed in Massachusetts, where it originated. — August. 
 
 CLASS II. AUTUMN APPLES. 
 
 28. Alexander (Emperor Alexander). — A very large 
 and beautiful deep red apple, with a light bloom. Tree 
 spreading, vigorous, and productive. Russian. — October 
 and E"ovember. 
 
 29. Autumn Strawberry (Late Strawberry). — Medium 
 size, streaked light and dark red ; tender, crisp, juicy and 
 fine. Tree vigorous, rather spreading, productive ; one 
 of the best of its season. — September and October. Cul- 
 tivated most in Western ISTew York ; origin unknowm. 
 
 30. Autumn Swaar. — A large, roundish, flattened, yel- 
 
APPLES. 283 
 
 low apple, generally known as " Sweet Swaar" in the 
 orchards of Western ^ew York. The flesh is yellow, 
 juicy, sweet and rich ; tree stout and spreading ; very 
 good. 
 
 31. Beauty of Kent. — A magnificent English apple, 
 rivalling the Alexander in size and beauty, skin striped 
 with dark red ; flesh tender but coarse, and indifierent 
 in flavor ; excellent for cooking ; tree very vigorous and 
 productive. 
 
 32. Bailey Spice. — A medium-sized, roundish, yellow 
 apple, wdth a sub-acid, brisk spicy flavor, introduced by 
 Jno. W. Bailey, of Plattsburg, N. Y., where it originated ; 
 tree of moderate growth, a great bearer, — fruit always 
 fair ; little known yet. — Sej)tember and October. 
 
 33. Cooper. — A very large, beautiful, and excellent 
 Ohio apple, roundish, — skin yellow streaked with light 
 red ; flesh tender, juicy, and agreeable. (Barrels of them 
 were exhibited at the Ohio State Fair in 1850, and noth- 
 ing in season equalled them. It is said to have been 
 brought originally from New England.)— October to 
 December. 
 
 31:. Clyde Beauty. — Large, conical, pale yellow, striped 
 and marbled with light red ; sub-acid, good ; introduced 
 to us by Mr. Matthew Mackie, of Clyde, N. Y., w^here it 
 originated. — October to December. 
 
 35. Duchess of Oldenhurg. — A large beautiful Bussian 
 apple, roundish, streaked red and yellow ; tender, juic ^ 
 and ]3leasant ; tree a vigorous fine grower, and a young 
 and abundant bearer. — September. 
 
 36. Drap d''Oi\ or Cloth of Gold. — Large, golden yel- 
 low ; flavor mild and agreeable ; tree spreading. — October. 
 
 37. Dyer. — See Pomme Boyal. 
 
 38. Fall Pippin. — Very large, roundish oblong, yel- 
 low; flesh tender, rich, and delicious; tree vigorous, 
 
284: SELECT VARIETIES OF FEUITS. 
 
 spreading, and a fine bearer; esteemed everywhere.— 
 October to December. 
 
 39. Fall Harvey. — A large, handsome yellow apple, 
 resembling the Fall Pippin, but not so good. Essex 
 county, Mass. — October and l^ovember. 
 
 40. Flemer. — Medium size, oblong, pale yellow, with 
 a red cheek ; tender and pleasant ; has a beautiful, smooth, 
 waxy apj^earance ; tree erect, and a great bearer ; Ger- 
 man. — September and October. 
 
 41. Gravenstein. — A beautiful, large, striped, roundish 
 apple of the first quality ; tree remarkably vigorous and 
 erect in growth, and very productive. German. — Sej)tem- 
 ber and October. 
 
 4:2. Garden Royal. — Small, yellow, striped with red, 
 sub-acid, rich, spicy, and delicious ; tree of moderate or 
 slow growth ; Massachusetts. — September. First noticed 
 by Manning in Hovey's Magazine. I^ot adajjted for the 
 orchard either in tree or fruit. 
 
 43. Haskell Sweet (Sassafras Sweet Cole). — Large, flat, 
 greenish yellow, tender, sweet, and rich ; tree vigorous 
 and productive. Massachusetts. — September and October. 
 
 44. Hawthornden. — A beautiful Scotch apple, medium 
 to large size, pale yellow and red ; trees have strong 
 shoots, with low spreading heads ; constant and abundant 
 bearer ; excellent for cooking. — September and October. 
 
 45. Haioley (Dowse). — A magnificent, large pale yel- 
 low apple, mild acid, tender, rich, and fine ; tree is a fair 
 grower, and bears w^ell ; originated in Columbia county, 
 I^. Y. ; has black spots in some seasons. — September and 
 October. 
 
 46. JeweWs Fine Bed. — An excellent E'ew England 
 apple, medium size, tender and fine flavored ; a good 
 grower and bearer, said to be well adapted to the North. 
 — October and November. 
 
 47. Jersey Sweet. — Medium size, strij)ed red and green, 
 
APPLES. 285 
 
 tender, juicy, and sweet; a strong fine grower and good 
 bearer ; succeeds well, and is highly esteemed in almost 
 all parts of the country, both for table and cooking. — 
 September and October. 
 
 48. Kane (Cain). — K very beautiful, smooth crimson 
 apple, of Delaware, resembling the Fameuse ; medium 
 size, roundish, and good quality. — October. 
 
 49. Loioell^ Orange^ Talloic Pippin (Queen Anne in 
 Ohio). — Large, oblong, pale yellow, skin oily, quality 
 excellent; tree a good grower and bearer. — September 
 and October. 
 
 50. Lyman'' s PumpMn Sioeet (Pound Sweet). — A large, 
 round, green apple, fine for baking ; tree very vigorous, 
 upright, and productive ; much grown in Western I^ew 
 York. — October to December. 
 
 51. Maiden? s Blush. — Medium size, flat, pale yellow, 
 with a red cheek, beautiful, tender and pleasant, but not 
 high flavored ; tree an erect and fine grower, and good 
 beai^er. — September and October. 
 
 52. Munson Sweet. — Medium to large, roundish flat- 
 tened, pale yellow, with a blush on the sunny side ; ten- 
 der, sweet, and good ; becomes rather dry as it matures ; 
 very fine for baking, and very beautiful ; introduced to us 
 by Mr. Jesse Storrs, of Marathon, IS". Y. It is said to be 
 a native of Massachusetts ; tree a good, upright grower, 
 and good bearer. — October to December. 
 
 53. Northern Sweet. — A very beautiful and excellent 
 sweet apple, introduced to us by Mr. Jonathan Batty, of 
 Keeseville, K. Y., who presented it at the Pomological 
 Convention at New York, in 1849. It is so much like 
 the Munson that we once thought them identical. It is 
 supposed to have originated in Chittenden county, Yt. 
 The tree is a moderate grower, with drooping branches, 
 and a great bearer. 
 
 54. Porter. — Medium size to large, oblong, yellow 
 
286 . SELECT VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 flesh, fine, tender, and of excellent flavor ; tree a mode- 
 rate grower ; very popular in Massachusetts. — September. 
 
 55. Pomrne Royal^ or Dyer. — Large, roundish, yellow- 
 ish white, with a brown tinge next the sun, crisp, juicy, 
 and high flavored ; tree a fair grower and abundant 
 bearer. — -September and October. 
 
 ^^. P'mn]jkin Sweet., Punvpkin Pusset. — A very large, 
 round, yellowish russet apple, very sweet and rich ; tree 
 a strong, rapid grower, with a spreading head ; valuable. 
 — October and November. 
 
 57. President. — Large and beautiful, yellow, with a red 
 cheek, roundish, flattened, of good quality, bears most abun- 
 dantly. We obtained it from Columbus, Ohio. — October. 
 
 58. Pepvhlicarh Pippin, — Large, roundish, striped, sub- 
 acid ; described by Dr. Brinkle, in the Horticulturist, as 
 Laving a peculiar walnut flavor ; " quality InTo. 1." The 
 tree is a vigorous grower and regular bearer, " but does 
 not bear so well on a limestone soil." September to Octo- 
 ber, and fit for cooking in July. Originated in Lycoming 
 county, Pa. 
 
 59. St. Laicrence. — Large, round, streaked red and 
 greenish yellow ; a very beautiful, productive, and pojDU- 
 lar market apple. Originated in Montreal, Canada. — 
 October. 
 
 60. Spice Sweet. — Large, pale yellow, with a blush on 
 the sunny side, quite waxen and beautiful, tender, sweet, 
 and fine ; a great bearer. — September. 
 
 61. Smoke-IIonse. — This is a fine apple, originated in 
 Lancaster county. Pa. Rather large, flat, striped ; tree is 
 a rapid grower, with spreading branches; flesh crisp, 
 juicy, and fine flavored. October. Xot much dissemi- 
 nated yet. 
 
 62. Sawyer Sweet. — Medium size, conical, greenish, 
 with a blush on the exposed side ; tender, sweet, and 
 good ; the tree is a free upright grower, and a good 
 
APPLES. 287 
 
 bearer. October and November. Described by Kenrick, 
 from whom we obtained it. 
 
 63. Sujperlj Sweet. — Large, roundish, yellow and red ; 
 flesh tender, juicy, rich flavored ; tree is a good grower 
 and bearer; native of Massachusetts, and succeeds well 
 in Maine. Described by Cole, who sent it to us. — Sep- 
 tember and October. 
 
 64. Summer Sweet Paradise. — Large, roundish, flat- 
 tened, pale green, marked with gray dots ; flesh tender, 
 sweet, and rich ; the tree is very productive, and bears 
 young. Originated at Columbia, Pa. ; one of the best 
 dessert varieties of its season. — September and October. 
 
 65. Tompkins. — A large and beautiful apple, from 
 Tompkins county, N. Y., where it is supposed to have 
 originated. It is of a golden yellow color at maturity ; 
 flesh sub-acid, tender, and rich ; tree productive. October 
 and November. Described in the Horticulturist in 1847. 
 
 %^. Toicne. — Large, flat, striped ; flesh tender, juicy, 
 mild, and pleasant ; ripens with the Gravenstein, and is 
 nearly as good with us ; obtained from Kenrick. 
 
 CLASS W. ^APPLES FOR ORNAMENT OR PRESERVING. 
 
 67. Bed Siberian Oral. — Small, about an inch in diam- 
 eter, yellow, with scarlet cheek ; beautiful ; tree is vigor- 
 ous and erect ; bears when tw^o or three years old. — Sep- 
 tember and October. 
 
 68. Large Bed Siberian Crab. — Kearly twdce as large 
 as the above, but similar in appearance and quality ; trees 
 grow large. — September and October. 
 
 69. Yellow Siberian Grab. — Nearly as large as the last, 
 and of a beautiful golden yellow. 
 
 70. Large Yellow Crab. — Larger than any of the pre- 
 ceding, pale yellow, with tint of red in the sun ; tree a 
 vigorous and rapid grower. 
 
288 SELECT VAEIETIES OF FKUITS. 
 
 Yl. Double Flowering Chinese. — A beautiful orna- 
 niental tree, producing large clusters of semi-double rose 
 colored blossoms. 
 
 CLASS III. WINTER APPLES. 
 
 Y2. Baldwin (Steele's Eed Winter, in Western ISTew 
 York). — A large, fair, bright, red apple, roundish, in- 
 clining to oblong ; flesh crisp, juicy, and pleasant ; not 
 very line grained. Tree is a vigorous, rajjid grower, with 
 curved erect branches, and forms a reguhir open head in 
 the orchard ; bears abundantly ; originated in Massachu- 
 setts, where it is one of the most popular and profitable 
 winter fruits for market. It also succeeds well through- 
 out Kew York, and especially in the Genesee Yalley ; 
 variable in the south and west. 
 
 Y3. Baily Sweet (Patterson Sweet). — ^A magnificent 
 Bweet apple of the largest size, originated in Wyoming 
 county, New York ; brought to our notice a few years 
 ago, by E. A. McKay, Esq., of IN'aples, ]N"ew York ; color 
 deep reddish crimson ; flesh tender, sweet, juicy, and 
 rich ; tree vigorous, erect, and productive. — October to 
 January. 
 
 T4. Bourrassa. — Large, conical, reddish russet, rich 
 and high-flavored, but rather dry; supposed to have 
 originated in Lower Canada ; a very valuable apple for 
 the high northern latitudes ; succeeds well in western 
 New York. — October to March. 
 
 Y5. Blue Pearmain. — Yery large, roundish, purplish 
 red, clouded, covered with bloom ; flesh sub-acid, juicy, 
 and good ; tree is a vigorous grower, with large foliage, 
 and a spreading head ; bears moderately ; very popular 
 in the markets on account of its size and beauty. — Octo- 
 ber to January. 
 
 Y6. Bell-flower^ Yellow. — Mr. Downing follows Thomp- 
 
APPLES. 289 
 
 son in calling this Belle-fletir^ which is, no doubt, correct, 
 this being the French term for handsome flower, while 
 om- word means bell-shaped flower ; but having been de- 
 scribed as bell-flower by the older authors, and universally 
 known and called so in this country, it cannot be changed. 
 The fruit is large^ oblong, slightly conical, yellow, with a 
 blush on the sunny side ; flesh crisp, juicy, pretty acid, 
 and rich ; tree is a rapid grower, with spreading and 
 drooping branches, very productive ; originated in Xew 
 Jersey ; succeeds well throughout a large portion of the 
 country. — November to April. 
 
 77. Belmont (Gate). — A beautiful and excellent aj^ple 
 of Ohio ; large, roundish, inclining to conical ; yellow, 
 with a tinge of red on one side ; sub-acid, juicy, and fine ; 
 succeeds well in IS'ew York and northern Ohio, but ig 
 variable at Cincinnati and further south. — October to 
 February. Described by Mr . Downing as " Waxen," he 
 supposing it to be identical with that of Coxe. This is 
 yet in doubt. 
 
 78. Belle et Bonne. — ^This is a native of Connecticut ; a 
 tree at East Hartford, forty years old, measures one hun- 
 dred and twenty feet in circumference, and bears forty to 
 fifty bushels a year. Mr, Downing describes it as " a very 
 large, showy, yellow apple, of the fall pippin class ;" the 
 tree forms a beautiful symmetrical head, and bears abmi- 
 dantly. — October to January. Keep all w^inter. There 
 is an apple by this name cultivated about Eochester, 
 large, showy, striped, of fair quality, ripens in September. 
 
 79. Broadwell. — A fine, new, sweet apple, from Ohio ; 
 large, greenish yellow, tender, sweet, and excellent ; 
 keeps till spring. 
 
 80. Carthouse (Gilpin, Eed Eomanite).— Medium size, 
 round, striped, sub-acid, and agreeable ; cultivated rather 
 extensively in some parts of the south, where it is es- 
 
 1.3 
 
290 SELECT VAKIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 teemed for its prodnctiveness and good keeping qualities. 
 It is also grown mncli for cider. — February to May. 
 
 81. Danvers' Winter Sweet. — Medium size, roundish, 
 slightly conical ; greenish yellow, with a brown tinge on 
 the sunny side ; flesh yellowish, crisp, juicy, and rich ; 
 tree very productive, spreading; one of the best sweet 
 apples ; origin, Danvers, Massachusetts ; keeps till April. 
 
 82. Dominie. — Medium size, flat, greenish yellow, 
 streaked with red, sub-acid, juicy, and high flavored. — 
 JSTovember to April. Cultivated rather extensively in the 
 orchards on the Hudson ; resembles the Rambo, and like 
 it succeeds well in the west and south. 
 
 83. Dutch Mignonne. — A very large, beautiful, and ex 
 cellent apple ; a native of Holland ; orange, marked with 
 russet and faint streaks of red ; fine flavored ; tree erect, 
 and good bearer. — November to March. 
 
 84. Fameuse. — Medium size, deep crimson, flesh snowy 
 white, tender, and delicious ; tree vigorous, with dark 
 wood ; a beautiful and fine early winter fruit ; succeeds 
 particularly well in the north. — November, December, 
 January; September, and October, in Ohio and farther 
 south. Native of Canada. 
 
 85. Fallawater. — From Columbia, Pennsylvania ; me- 
 dium size, slightly conical, greenish yellow, with a dull 
 blush on the sunny side ; flesh juicy, sub-acid, and good ; 
 productive. 
 
 86. Fort Miami. — A new variety from Ohio. Said to 
 be a rich, high-flavored, good keeper. 
 
 87. Green Sweeting. — Medium size, greenish, tender, 
 sweet, and spicy ; one of the very best long-keeping 
 sweet apples ; tree a moderate grower. — November to 
 May. 
 
 88. Hubhardson Nonsuch. — Large, striped yellow and 
 red, tender, juicy, and fine, strong grower and great 
 bearer ; native of Massachusetts. — November to January. 
 
APPLES. 291 
 
 89. Hooker. — A large fine apple, introduced to Ro- 
 chester by Judge E. B. Strong, from Connecticnt ; color 
 greenish yellow, striped, and covered with dark red in the 
 sun ; flesh tender, juicy, and fine-flavorad ; tree very pro- 
 ductive. — IS^ovember to January. 
 
 90. Hartford Sweeting (Spencer Sweeting).^A native 
 of Hartford, Connecticut ; medium size, flat, striped ; flesh 
 juicy, tender, and rich ; keeps till late in sj)ring ; tree 
 very productive ; a valuable orchard variety. 
 
 91. Jmiatlian. — Medium, size, stri2:)ed red and yellow ; 
 flesh tender, juicy, and rich, wdth much of the Sj)itzen- 
 bm*g character ; shoots light-colored, slender, and spread- 
 ing ; very productive ; a native of Kingston, ISTew York. 
 — ^N^ovember to April. 
 
 92. King.— A. large handsome fruit, striped red and 
 yellow, of fair but not first-rate quality ; tree remarkably 
 vigorous and fruitful. — October to January. 
 
 93. Lady Apple., Portirae d^Api. — A beautiful little 
 dessert fruit, flat, pale yellow, with a brilliant red cheek ; 
 flesh crisp, juicy, and pleasant ; the tree forms a dense, 
 erect head, and bears large crojjs of fruit in clusters ; the 
 fruit sells for the highest price in IS'ew York, London, and 
 Paris. — ]N"ovember to May. There are four or five varie- 
 ties of these described by authors, but this is the best. 
 
 94. Ladies' Svjeet- — Large, roundish, green, and red, 
 nearly quite red in the sun ; sweet, sprightly, and per- 
 fumed ; shoots slender but erect ; a good bearer ; origin- 
 ated near Newburg, Kew York ; one of the best winter 
 sweet apples. — November to May. 
 
 95. Limher Tioig (James Eiver). — A large, dull, red 
 apple ; second rate in quality, but keeps till June or July, 
 on account of which chiefly it is cultivated at the south 
 and west ; the tree has weak, pendulous branches, but is 
 exceedingly hardy, and bears immense crops. 
 
 96. Mother. — Large, red ; flesh very tender, rich, and 
 
W2 SELECT VAKIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 aromatic ; tree a good bearer ; succeeds well in the north ; 
 supposed to have originated in Worcester county, Massa- 
 chusetts. — ^November to January. 
 
 97. Melon (Koi'ton's). — Large, pale, whitish yellow and 
 yermillion red ; flesh tender, juicy, almost melting, and 
 spicy ; a most beautiful and delicious fruit ; originated in 
 East Bloomfield, Kew York ; the tree is rather a slow 
 grower, but a good bearer ; retains its freshness from 
 October to Aj)ril. 
 
 98. McLellan (Martin). — Large, roundish, yellow, strip- 
 ed with red ; flesh fine grained, mild, tender, and plea- 
 sant ; tree productive ; originated in Woodstock, Connec- 
 ticut, where it is highly esteemed. Mr. Downing con- 
 siders it " worthy of a place in every small collection, and 
 valuable for the orchard." 
 
 99. Minister. — A large, showy, oblong, striped apple, 
 fine-grained and pleasant, sub-acid. Mr. Manning con- 
 sidered it one of the finest apples Massachusetts pro- 
 duced ; with us it is about second-rate ; trees exceedingly 
 productive. — October to January. 
 
 100. Monmoutli Pippin (Red Cheeked Pippin). — A 
 large, showy, good apple, of I^ew Jersey, somewhat cul- 
 tivated, and succeeds well in western New i'ork, round- 
 ish, oblong, greenish yellow, with a deep red cheek ; 
 flesh rather compact, sub-acid, and agreeable ; keeps well 
 till March or April; tree upright, vigorous, and pro- 
 ductive. 
 
 101. Northern Spy. — Large, striped, and quite covered 
 on the sunny side with dark crimson, and delicately 
 coated with bloom ; flesh juicy, rich, highly aromatic, re- 
 taining its freshness of flavor and appearance till July ; 
 the tree is a remarkably rapid, fine, erect grower, and a 
 great bearer ; like all trees of the same habit, it requires 
 good culture, and an occasional thinning out of the 
 branches, to admit the sun and air fully to the fruit. It 
 
APPLES. 29S 
 
 is one of the largest, most beautiful, and excellent long- 
 keeping apples yet known ; originated in Ontario county, 
 'New York, and introduced a few years ago. Mr. Cole 
 says it is found to be very hardy as far north as Maine. 
 
 102. Newtown Pippin. — One of the most celebrated 
 of American apples, on account of its long-keej)ing and 
 excellent qualities, and the high price it commands 
 abroad ; but its success is confined to certain districts and 
 soils. It attains its greatest perfection on Long Island, 
 and on the Hudson. In western Kew York and New 
 England, it rarely succeeds well. It requires rich and 
 high culture, and it is said a large suj^ply of lime ; tree a 
 slow, feeble grower, with rough bark. — I^Tovember to 
 June. 
 
 103. Ortley (Detroit, White Bellilower, Warren Pippin, 
 etc., of the West, Woolman's Long, etc., etc.). — Large, 
 roundish, slightly oblong, pale yellow ; flesh sub-acid, 
 sprightly and fine ; succeeds well in E"ew Jersey, and in 
 the west ; origin, New Jersey. 
 
 104. Peclc's Pleasant. — Large, pale yellow, with a 
 brown cheek, very smooth and fair ; flesh firm and rich, 
 approaching the flavor of a Newtown pippin ; tree erect 
 and a fine bearer. — November to April. 
 
 105. Pomme Grise. — Small, greyish russet, very rich, 
 and high-flavored ; tree a moderate grower, but a good 
 bearer ; very valuable in the north ; is frequently shipped 
 from Canada to England. — November to April. 
 
 106. Pichnan (Pickman Pippin). — Medium to large, 
 roundish, slightly flattened, of a beautiful clear straw 
 color ; sub-acid and rich ; fine for cooking. — November to 
 February. Supposed to be a native of Massachusetts. 
 
 107. Pryor^s Red. — ^A very popular and excellent fruit 
 in Ohio and Kentucky ; somewhat similar to the Bourassa 
 in color and flavor ; reddish or brownish russet ; rather 
 dry, but rich and high-flavored; rather late and shy 
 
294 SELECT VAEIETIES OF FEUITS. 
 
 bearer. — December to February. Cultivated extensively 
 for the 'New Orleans market. 
 
 108. jPMllip^s Sweeting. — A new Ohio apple, large, 
 conical, yellow and red ; flesh tender, juicy, sweet, and 
 good. Early winter. 
 
 109. JSamho (Komanite, Seek-I^o-Farther). — Good and 
 popular over a greater extent of country than any other 
 variety ; medium size, round, greenish, yellow, striped 
 with red ; flesh exceedingly tender, juicy, and pleasant ; 
 tree vigorous, erect, and very productive ; ripens in the 
 autumn at the south and west, but keeps here till Feb- 
 ruary. 
 
 110. Rome Beauty. — A large and very beautiful new 
 apple of Ohio ; we saw it at Cincinnati in 1850 ; it is 
 roundish or very slightly conical, pale yellow, mostly 
 covered with bright red ; flesh not very fine, but tender, 
 juicy, and good ; early winter. It will undoubtedly be 
 valuable for the orchard. 
 
 111. JRawWs Jannet (Rawle's Janneting, Never-fail, 
 Eockremain, &c.). — ^The most popular and valuable 
 orchard fruit of Kentucky. An experienced orchardist of 
 that State, Mr. Sanders, of Carrol county, who has known 
 it for fifty years., says that " 30 to 40 per cent, of every 
 orchard in Kentucky should be planted with it." It blos- 
 soms two weeks later than most other varieties, and there- 
 fore always escapes spring frosts. It is medium to small, 
 round, greenish streaked, and clouded with dull red; flesh 
 compact, crisp, juicy and vinous. — Keeps till June or 
 July. 
 
 112. Reinette., Canada. — Very large, flattened, ribbed, 
 dull yellow, flesh firm, juicy and rich; tree a strong 
 grower and good bearer. In France it is considered the 
 largest and best apple, and proves excellent here ; it keeps 
 better for being picked early. — ^N'ovember to March. 
 
 113. Bed Canada (Old None-such of Massachusetts). — 
 
APPLES. 295 
 
 Medium size, red, with white dots, flesh fine, rich, sub-acid 
 and delicious; tree a slender grower; one of the best of 
 apples. — November to May. 
 
 114. Rhode Island Greening. — Every where well known 
 and popular ; tree spreading and vigorous, always more 
 or less crooked in the nursery ; a great and constant bearer 
 in nearly ail soils and situations ; fruit rather acid, but 
 excellent for dessert or cooking ; towards the south it ripens 
 in the fall, but in the north keeps well till March or April. 
 
 115. Russet Golden. — Medium size, dull russet, with a 
 tinge of red on the exposed side ; flesh greenish, crisp, 
 juicy and high flavored ; tree a fine grower, spreading 
 with light colored speckled shoots, by which it is easily 
 known ; bears well ; popular and extensively grown in 
 "Western i^ew York. — JSTovember to April. 
 
 116. Russet Golden American (Bullock's Pippin, 
 Sheep's Nose). — Medium size to small, conical, slightly 
 russeted ; flesh remarkably tender, juicy and rich ; of the 
 finest quality ; origin, New Jersey, and succeeds well in 
 the west and south. Tree an uj^right, compact, but not 
 rapid grower. 
 
 117. Russet Encjlisli (Poughkeepsie Eusset). — Medium 
 size, slightly conical, greenish yellow, mostly covered 
 with russet. Tree is remarkably stout and erect, bears 
 large crops, and the fruit will keep a year ; quality good ; 
 very profitable. 
 
 118. Russet^ Roxhury or ^6><9^wz,— Medium size to large, 
 surface rough, greenish, covered with russet, flavor indif- 
 ferent ; tree vigorous, spreading, and a great bearer; keeps 
 till June. Its great popularity is owing to its productive- 
 ness and long-keeping. 
 
 119. Suxiar. — Large, pale lemon yellow, with dark dots, 
 flesh tender, rich and spicy ; tree a moderate grower, 
 with dark shoots and large grey buds ; with good cultm-e 
 it is one of the very best of apples. — November to May. 
 
296 SELECT VARIETIES OF FEUITS. 
 
 120. Seeh-no-further (Westfield). — Meclinm to large, 
 striped with dull red, and slightly russeted ; flesh tender, 
 rich and excellent; tree a good grower and bearer, and 
 fruit always fair. — ^November to February. 
 
 121. Spitzenhurgli Esopus. — Large, deep red, with grey 
 sj)ots, and delicately coated with bloom, flesh yellow, 
 crisp, rich and excellent ; tree rather a feeble, slow, spread- 
 ing grower, and moderate bearer ; esteemed in this State 
 as one of the very best. — IN^ovember to April. 
 
 Spitzenburgh J^ewtoicn. — From the little village of New- 
 town, Long Island ; a handsome, round, dark red apple, 
 marked with brown dots; flesh yellow, firm, mild and 
 pleasant. — ^November to February. This was exhibited 
 as " Yandervere" in nearly all the western collections at 
 the Cincinnati Convention. 
 
 123. Tallman Sweeting. — Medium size, pale whitish 
 yellow, slightly tinged with red ; flesh firm, rich and very 
 sweet; excellent for cooking; tree vigorous, upright and 
 very productive. — ^November to April. 
 
 124. Twenty Ounce (Cayuga Red Streak). — A very 
 large, showy, striped apple, of fair quality ; tree an upright, 
 compact grower, and fine bearer ; excellent for baking, 
 and of pleasant fiavor, though not rich ; one of the best 
 very large apples, and popular in the markets. — October 
 to January. 
 
 125. Teivhsbtiry W{7iter Blush. — Small, yellow^, with a 
 red cheek, flesh fimi, juicy, and fine flavored ; a remark- 
 ably long keeper ; tree a rapid, erect grower ; suits the 
 south best, as it requires a long season to manure it ; origin, 
 New Jersey. — January to July. 
 
 126. Vandevere. — Medium size, yellow, striped with 
 red, and becoming deep crimson next the sun, flesh yel- 
 low, rich and fine; tree a fair grower and good bearer; 
 succeeds best on light, warm, dry soils. — October to March. 
 
 12T. Wagener. — Medium, to large size, deep red in the 
 
APPLES. 297 
 
 8U11 ; flesh firm, sub-acicl and excellent ; tree very produc- 
 tive. A new and excellent variety, recently introduced 
 from Penn Yan, Yates County, New York.— December 
 to May. 
 
 128. Winter Pecmnain. — Medium size, dull red stripes, 
 on a yellowisli ground, flesh tender, pleasant and aro- 
 matic ; a moderate grower and bearer, best on warm soil. 
 — ^J^ovember and March. 
 
 129. Willow Tioig. — A western variety, particularly 
 valuable for its productiveness and long keeping ; shoots 
 very slender, hence its name. 
 
 130. WelW Sweeting. — A fine early winter sweet apple, 
 from Kewburgh, ]S'ew York. Medium size, roundish, 
 green, flesh tender, sprightly and rich. Tree a stout, up- 
 right grower and good bearer. — November to January. 
 
 131. Wine Sap. — Medium size, roundish, slightly coni- 
 cal, deep red ; flesh very firm and crisp, with a sub-acid 
 flavor. Tree very productive ; fine for cider, for which it 
 has been extensively grown. — November to April. 
 
 132. Wine Apple (Hay's Winter). — Large, roundish, 
 slightly flattened, yellow striped, and clouded wdth bright 
 red ; flesh yellow, juicy, crisp and pleasant. A native of 
 Delaware ; succeeds well in many parts of the country. 
 
 133. White Winter Calville.— This is a celebrated 
 French apple, and is one of the finest dessert varieties to 
 be found in their markets at the present day. It is large, 
 flat, ribbed, pale yellow, with a bright red cheek ; flavor 
 pleasant but not rich. Succeeds well in Canada. — No- 
 vember to March. 
 
 SMALL SELECT LISTS OF APPLES. 
 
 For Western New York the following are "unimpeach- 
 able :" 
 
 Nos. 1, 2, 4, 8, 9, 10, 14, 15, 23, 29, 38, 41, 44, 45, 47, 
 
29S SELECT VARIETIES OF FRTJITS. 
 
 55, 72, 73, 76, 81, 83, 84, 87, 93, 97, 101, 105, 109, 113, 
 114, 119, 121, 127. 
 
 Twenty Choice Garden Yarieties. — 2, 9, 10, 15, 23, 29, 
 38, 41, 47, 50, 55, 84, 93, 97, 101,105, 113,119,121,127. 
 
 Twenty 'very large and heautiful sorts for Dwarfs. — 2, 
 4, 23, 31, 35, 38, 27, 28, 41, 44, 45, 51, 59, 72, 73, 83, 101, 
 109, 127, 133. 
 
 Yarieties that succeed well in the south and west — • 
 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12, 15, 23, 33, 38, 41, 47, 51, 61, 
 76, 79, 80, 82, 84, 86, 95, 102, 103, 107, 108, 109, 110, 
 111, 114, 116, 118, 126, 129, 132. 
 
 The " "Western Horticultural Review" suggests the fol- 
 lowing for an orchard of one thousand trees at St. Louis. 
 
 Two hundred Eawle's Jannet ; two hundred Pryor's Red ; 
 two hundred N^ewtown pippin ; fifty golden russet (Ame- 
 rican, no doubt) ; thirtj-five N^ewton Spitzenburgh ; fifteen 
 fall pippin ; twenty-five each, yellow and white bell- 
 flower, early strawberry, early harvest, Benoni, "Williams' 
 favorite, Bohanan, and Gravenstein, Cooper, Rome Beauty, 
 Rambo, Belmont, and Fameuse ; one hundred Carthouse 
 or Gilpin, Michael Henry and Smith's Cider ; fifty " any 
 others not rejected." 
 
 Samuel Walker, Esq., President of the Massachusetts 
 Horticultural Society, one of the most experienced and 
 critical judges of fruits in America, gives, in " Hovey's 
 Magazine, vol. xv., 1849, the following list as being the 
 best-suited to the meridian of I^ew England, ranked ac- 
 cording to merit thus : ISTos. 114, 41, 72, 8 or 9, 113, 54, 
 99, 123, 4, 118, 81, 54. 88, 38, 84, 1, 3, 2, 39, 27, 94, 91, 
 104, 121. 
 
PEAES. 299 
 
 Section 2. — Select Peaes. 
 
 CLASS I. SUMMER PEAES. 
 
 1. Ainire Joannet (St. John's). — Eetained only on ac- 
 count of its earliness, and not recommended for small 
 collections ; the tree is a fine grower on both pear and 
 quince, and a profuse bearer; fruit small, pale yellow, 
 and sweet, soon mealy. — Twentieth to last of July. For- 
 eign. 
 
 ' 2. Beau Present cVArtois. — A good, juicy, half melt- 
 ing j^ear, medium size ; tree very vigorous and productive 
 on the quince. — September. Foreign. 
 
 3. Bloodgood. — An American pear of the first quality; 
 medium size, buttery, melting, and rich ; tree is a fair 
 grower ; succeeds w^ell, and makes a fine pyramid on the 
 quince. — August. 
 
 4. Bartlett (William's Bonchretien). — One of the most 
 popular pears ; large, buttery, and melting, with a rich 
 musky flavor ; tree a fair, erect grower ; bears young and 
 abundantly, both on pear and quince ; the fruit ri]3ens 
 perfectly in the house, if gathered even two or three 
 weeks before its time of ripening ; this prolongs its sea- 
 son. — Last of September. 
 
 5. Canandaigua. — So named by the Congress Fruit 
 Growers, in 1849 ; previously called " Catharine P It is, 
 in appearance, very similar to the Bartlett, nearly as 
 large and as good ; melting and fine flavored ; tree is an 
 upright, vigorous grower on both pear and quince, and 
 very productive. In season middle of September. 
 
 6. Dearborn'' s Seedling. — Eather below medium size, 
 pale yellow, melting and delicious ; trQQ a rapid, fine 
 grower, both on pear and quince, and bears young and 
 profusely ; one of the very best early summer pears, rip'^ 
 
300 SELECT YAEIETIES OF FKUITS. 
 
 immediately after the Blooclgood. — About the last of 
 August. 
 
 7. Doyenne cPEte (Summer Doyenne). — A beautiful 
 little melting sweet pear ; tree a fine grower and bearer, 
 and succeeds well on the quince. — August. 
 
 8. Edinarcfs Henrietta. — A medium-sized, greenish 
 pear, melting, juicy, and sprightly; tree very productive; 
 originated at New Haven, Conn. — September. ISTot much 
 disseminated. 
 
 9. Jargonelle^ English. — A good old variety, large 
 size, flesh rather coarse, but juicy and pleasant ; should 
 be ripened in the house. The tree is a very strong 
 grower, with purplish spreading shoots, and large foliage 
 and flowers. It makes a fine prolific pyramid on the 
 quince, but is not recommended for small collections. — 
 Beginning of August. 
 
 10. Leeches Kingsessing. — A new pear recently intro- 
 duced by Dr. Brinkle, of Philadelphia. It is described 
 as being large, of a " sea-green" color, and '' rich, buttery, 
 and delicately flavored ;" ripe last of August. It proves 
 with us a strong grower, and will make a handsome pyra- 
 mid on the quince. 
 
 11. Madeleine. — This is the earliest good pear we have ; 
 size medium, flesh melting, sweet and delicate ; tree a fair 
 grower, and good, early bearer on both pear and quince. 
 
 12. Striped Madeleine — is a variety, with wood and 
 fruit striped with green, yellow and red, of same quality 
 and season as the preceding. 
 
 13. Muscadine. — Medium size, melting, musky flavored 
 and good. The tree has vigorous dark shoots, similar to 
 Jargonelle ; does not appear to succeed weU on the 
 quince. — Early in September. 
 
 14. Moyamensing (Smith's). — Originated in Philadel- 
 phia ; large size, buttery, melting, and fine flavored; 
 decays very soon after ripening ; tree is a fair grower on 
 
PEAKS. 801 
 
 both pear and quince ; ripens at Philadelphia from the 
 middle of July till August ; north proportionably later. 
 
 15. Muscat Hobert. — A small, pale yellow, half-melting 
 fruit, very juicy and sweet ; tree hardy, productive, and 
 vigorous, leaves large and flat, shoots quite yellowish ; 
 bears abundant crops on the quince ; not so good as 
 Madeleine or Bloodgood. 
 
 16. OWs Seedling. — A small, yellow, delicious, high 
 flavored pear ; originated near Philadelphia, and brought 
 to notice by Dr. Brinkle, who considers it nearly as good 
 as the Seckel. — August and September. 
 
 17. OsbancVs Summer. — A medium sized, excellent 
 fruit, half-melting, mild, and pleasant flavored ; tree a 
 fair, erect grower, on both pear and quince, and very pro- 
 ductive ; ripens here early part of August ; origin, "Wajme 
 county, N. Y. ; recently introduced. 
 
 18. Rousselet Stuttgart. — Medium size or rather small, 
 greenish brown, half-melting, juicy, and fine flavored ; 
 tree a fine grower, and very productive on both pear and 
 quince. German. — August and September. 
 
 19. Rostiezcr. — Medium size, yellowish green, with a 
 brown cheek ; flesh juicy, sweet, and high flavored ; the 
 tree is vigorous, with dark-colored shoots ; succeeds well 
 on the quince ; of German origin, and not long introduced 
 here, but so far has proved first-rate in its season. — First 
 of Ssj^tember. 
 
 20. Summer Franc Real. — Medium size, juicy, melting, 
 and rich ; tree very hardy, and a stout, fine grower and 
 good bearer on both pear and quince ; makes a beautiful 
 pyramid ; foliage and young shoots look mealy, being 
 covered with a light down ; fruit should always be ripened 
 in the house.— End of August and beginning of Sep- 
 tember. 
 
 21. Skinless (Sanspeau of the French).— Eather small 
 pyriform, pale yellow, with a tinge of red on the sunny 
 
302 SELECT YAEIETIES OF TEUITS. 
 
 side ; melting, juicy, and sweet ; tree a rapid, erect 
 grower, and very productive. — August. 
 
 22. Tyson. — Rather above medium size, melting, juicy, 
 sweet, and fine flavored; tree very vigorous and rapid 
 grower, both on quince and pear ; one of the finest summer 
 varieties ; origin, Jenkintown, Pa. — September. 
 
 CLASS n. AIJTIJMK PEAES. 
 
 23. Andrews (Amory or Gibson). — Rather above me- 
 dium size, pyi'amidal, yellow, with a dull red cheek ; juicy, 
 melting, and good ; tree a fair grower, and a good bearer ; 
 very popular in Boston. September and October. Native 
 of Dorchester, Mass. 
 
 24. Bleeker's Meadow. — Medium size, round, half-melt- 
 ing ; second rate ; but the tree is exceeding hardy and 
 vigorous, and bears enormous cro23s ; fine for stewing, etc. 
 — October. 
 
 25. Buffum. — Yery similar to the White Doyenne, and 
 nearly as good ; buttery, sweet, and fine flavored ; tree a 
 remarkably vigorous, upright grower, with light reddish 
 brown shoots ; succeeds well on the quince. — Last of Sep- 
 tember. 
 
 26. Beurre^ Brotim. — A very fine old fruit ; not well 
 spoken of in ]^ew England, but does well in this State ; 
 fruit medium size to large, melting, very juicy, with a 
 sprightly vinous flavor. It is rather a tardy bearer and 
 poor grower on the pear, but on the quince it grows w^ell 
 and makes a fine prolific pyramid. It is inclined to over- 
 bear, and should be pnined close, to maintain its vigor. 
 
 27. Beurre^ Bosc. — A large and beautiful pear, melting 
 or nearly so, high flavored and delicious ; a good grower 
 on pear, but does not succeed on the quince, except double 
 worked. — September and October. 
 
 28. Beurre d''Amcdis Pcmaclie. — In quality similar to 
 
PEARS. 303 
 
 Kumber 37, but the wood and fruit curiously striped 
 with red and yellow, like the strij)ed Madeleine and 
 Doyenne. 
 
 29. Beurre cVAnjou. — A large fine pear, buttery and 
 melting, with sprightly vinous flavor ; tree a fine grower 
 on both pear and quince. — October and November. For- 
 eign ; first imported by Col. Wilder. 
 
 30. Beurre Cwpiau7nont. — Medium size, yellow, with a 
 red cheek ; melting, sweet, and rich, but somewhat vari- 
 able ; a good grower and abundant bearer ; makes a 
 beautiful productive pyramid on the quince. — October. 
 
 31. Beurre Diel. — One of the largest pears, buttery, 
 rich, and fine ; sometimes gritty at the core on j)ear stock ^ 
 invariably first-rate on the quince ; growth very strong 
 and rapid, with large roundish leaves. — October and [N'o- 
 vember ; and if picked early and ripened gradually in the 
 house, may be kept to December. 
 
 32. Beurre^ Golden of Bilboa. — A large and beautiful 
 pear of the first quality, buttery and melting, with a ricli 
 sprightly flavor ; a strong, upright, handsome grower ; 
 succeeds particularly well on the quince. — September and 
 October. 
 
 33. Bergaraotte Cadette (Beurre Beauchamps). — A me- 
 dium size, oval, melting rich pear ; tree a fine grower, and 
 very prolific both on j)ear and quince ; makes a fine pyra- 
 mid. — Ripe in November, and keeps well till December. 
 
 3-i. Bergamot Gcmsels. — Medium to large size, round- 
 ish, skin rough, brown; flesh melting, juicy, rich, and 
 high flavored ; rather a poor grower, with slender spread- 
 ing branches and gray leaves ; a tardy bearer, does not 
 succeed on the quince. — October. 
 
 35. Bezi de Montigny. — A very fair, medium-sized 
 fruit, melting and sweet, with a pleasant, musky flavor ; 
 very vigorous and productive ; makes a fine fruitful i^yra- 
 
304: SELECT YAEIETIES OF FEriTS. 
 
 mid on the quince, nearly as good as White Doyenne. — 
 October. 
 
 36. Belle Lucrative (Fondante d'Automne). — Medium 
 size, melting and delicious ; a fair, ujDright grower ; makes 
 a beautiful pyramid on the quince, and bears early and 
 abundantly ; first quality in all respects. — September and 
 October. 
 
 37. Beurre d^Amalis. — A large, melting, fine pear, 
 resembling the Brown Beurre, and with the same high 
 vinous flavor ; a strong grower, and most abundant bearer 
 on the quince. — September and October. 
 
 38. Comte de Lamy. — A medium-sized, melting, fine 
 flavored fruit ; a good grower ; makes a fine pyramid on 
 the quince. — October. 
 
 39. Ouslimg. — Medium size, oblong, pale green, brown- 
 ish next the sun ; juicy, melting, and delicious ; tree very 
 productive ; one of the very best Massachusetts varieties. 
 — September. 
 
 40. Dunmore (Knight's). — A large, fine j)ear, with a 
 sprightly sub-acid flavor like the Brown Beurre ; rather 
 variable ; sometimes first-rate — September. 
 
 41. Dix. — A large, fine pear, melting, juicy, and rich ; 
 a fair grower ; slender, yellowish shoots ; succeeds on the 
 quince double worked, but not otherwise. — October. Ori- 
 gin, Boston. 
 
 42 Duchesse d^Angouleme. — The largest of all our 
 good pears ; it attains its highest perfection on the quince, 
 and is a beautiful, vigorous tree ; profitable for market. — 
 October and ^November. 
 
 43. DucJi,esse d'' Orleans. — A new, large, and delicious 
 pear, " with the flavor of GanselPs Bergamot ;" succeeds 
 well on the quince, and bears quite young ; has proved 
 fine at Boston, but not so good with us. — October. 
 
 44. Doyenne Boussoch. — A new, large, delicious pear, 
 
PEAES. 305 
 
 like a very large White Doyenne ; tree a strong, rapid 
 grower ; succeeds well on the quince. — October. 
 
 45. Doyenne White. — A well known and universally 
 esteemed variety of the highest excellence ; growing and 
 bearing equally well on both pear and quince ; young 
 trees on the quince are inclined to bear too much, on this 
 account the fruit requires thinning, and the tree pretty 
 close pruning, to keep up a vigorous growth. — October and 
 November. 
 
 46. Doyenne Gray. — Similar in quality to the preced 
 ing ; fruit of a reddish russet color ; tree not quite so 
 strong a grower. 
 
 4Y. Doyenne Panadie (Striped Doyenne). — Similar in 
 character to the White ; wood and fruit are curiously 
 striped. 
 
 48. Excellentissima. — A nqyj beautiful and excellent 
 new Belgian variety, as large as the Bartlett ; oblong, 
 pyriform, yellow, with a tinge of red in the sun ; buttery, 
 melting, and rich. — October. It must become a most 
 popular variety. 
 
 49. Forelle or Trout Pear. — A beautiful German pear, 
 finely speckled, buttery, melting and rich ; succeeds well 
 on the quince; bears early and. profusely. — JSTovember. 
 
 50. Flemish Beauty. — A large, beautiful, melting, rich 
 pear; tree vigorous and fruitful: has not succeeded well 
 on the quince with us yet. — September and October. 
 
 51. Frederick of Wurtemberg. — A large and beautiful 
 pear, sometimes first-rate, and often insipid ; a vigorous 
 grower both on pear and quince, and an early good bearer. 
 — September. 
 
 52. Fulton. — A native pear, round and russety, melt- 
 ing, rich and excellent, hardy and vigorous; succeeds 
 well in the north where many others are tender. — October 
 and I^ovember. 
 
 58. Henry IV. (We have sent out some trees of this 
 
306 SELECT VAEIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 variety, imported as " Ananas"). — A medium sized, melt- 
 ing, delicious pear, of a dull greenish color; a free stout 
 grower, and a most profuse bearer; succeeds well on the 
 quince ; should be ripened in the house. — September. 
 
 54. Heathcote. — A buttery, melting, fine-flavored pear, 
 about the size of White Doyenne, hardy and productive. 
 ■ — September. Originated in the vicinity of Boston. 
 
 55. Howell. — A very good and very handsome variety, 
 originated at New Haven, Conn. Large or medium, obo- 
 vate, inclining to pyramidal, lemon yellow tinged, with 
 red in the sun ; melting, juicy and vinous, rather coarse. 
 Tree vigorous, branches rather spreading and drooping. — 
 September and October. 
 
 56. Hanners (Hannas). — A native of Boston or vicinity ; 
 of medium size, resemblino; the Cushino^, with somewhat 
 the flavor of AVhite Doyenne. — September. 
 
 57. Henkel. — Medium size, roundish obovate, yellow, 
 slightly russeted; buttery, melting and fine. One of the 
 very best Belgian varieties. — IN^ovember and December. 
 
 58. Hacon's Incorajparable. — A very large round pear, 
 buttery, melting and rich. Trees spreading and very pro- 
 ductive. One of the finest English varieties, but a little 
 variable in this country. — October. 
 
 59. Harvard. — A very popular and profitable market 
 fruit around Boston; large, oblong, russety, melting and 
 juicy; should be house ripened. The tree is vigorous and 
 uj)right ; a tardy but very abundant bearer. — September. 
 
 60. Jolionnot. — Medium size, roundish obovate, green- 
 ish yellow, slightly russeted, rather coarse but melting, 
 rich and musky. The tree is a good grower, succeeds 
 well on the quince. Originated in Salem, Mass. 
 
 61. KnigMs Seedling, — Originated in Rhode Island. 
 Large, melting, sweet and good ; should be gathered before 
 ripe ; tree a good grower. — September to October. 
 
 62. Louise Bonne de Jersey. — One of the finest of all 
 
PEARS. 307 
 
 pears, large, beautiful and delicious ; it succeeds well both 
 on pear and quince, but on the latter, especially, it is all 
 that can be desired. — September and October. Foreign. 
 
 63. Long Green (Yerte Longue). — Really long and 
 green, juicy, sweet and good ; a fine strong grower and 
 good bearer on the quince. — October. Foreign. 
 
 64. Long Green^ Striped (Yerte Longue Panache). — A 
 variety of the preceding, with striped wood and fruit, but 
 
 nferior in quality. 
 
 65. Las Canas. — ^A fine Belgian variety, first fruited by 
 Mr. Manning. Medium size, pyriform, yellow and slightly 
 russeted, juicy, melting and fine. — October. 
 
 QQ. Lodge. — Medium size, brownish, russety, juicy, 
 melting, rich ; native of Philadelphia ; usually first-rate. 
 — September and October. 
 
 67. Marie Louise. — A large melting pear of the first 
 quality ; the tree is a straggling, crooked grower, but 
 hardy, and bears young and abundantly ; does not succeed 
 on the quince. 
 
 68. Napoleon. — A large, juicy, melting, fine fruit; tree 
 vigorous, hardy and productive, makes a fine pyramid on 
 the quince ; bears young, ripens in I^ovember, and may 
 be kept till December. Should be ripened in a warm 
 room.- 
 
 69. Onondaga. — See Swan's Orange. 
 
 70. Osioego Beurre. — An excellent new pear, from Os- 
 wego, New York, medium size, melting, with a rich vinov 
 flavor. Tree very hardy and productive ; makes a beauti- 
 ful pyramid on the quince ; a most valuable pear ; ripens 
 in October to December. 
 
 71. Paradise d^Aidomne. — A large, fine melting pear, 
 of the first quality ; resembles Beurre Bosc in shape and 
 color. — October. 
 
 72. Pratt. — A native of Ehode Island, medium size, 
 
308 SELECT VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 melting, biitteiy, rich and good ; nearly first rate. — Sep- 
 tember and October. 
 
 73. Petre. — Native of Pennsylvania; medium size, 
 obovate, pale yellow, slightly russeted, buttery, melting 
 and rich ; generally first rate. — September. 
 
 Y4. Pennsylvania. — Medium to large size, half melting; 
 highly esteemed at Philadelphia, where it originated; 
 does not j^rove so good in other places. Tree a good 
 grower, both on pear and quince. — September. 
 
 Y5. Surpass Yirgouloiise (or Yirgalieu). A very fine 
 fruit, nearly equal in all respects to the "White Doyenne, 
 introduced by the late Mr. Parmentier, of Brooklyn. — 
 October. 
 
 T6. Seclcel. — ^The highest flavored pear known ; consi- 
 dered as the standard of excellence ; a stout, erect grower, 
 not rapid, a good bearer ; grows well on the quince with 
 us. — September and October. 
 
 77. St. GMslain. — A medium sized, fine melting pear; 
 tree a rapid and beautiful grower and good bearer ; should 
 be ripened in the house. — September. 
 
 78. Stevens'^ Genesee. — A large, roundish, buttery, fine- 
 flavored pear, vigorous and highly productive ; succeeds 
 well on both pear and quince ; a native of Monroe county, 
 IsTew York. — September and October. 
 
 79. Swan^^s 6^r<:m^e (Onondaga). — A very large, melting, 
 high-flavored pear, vigorous and extremely productive, 
 one of the best pears of its size and season ; succeeds well 
 on the quince. — October and ]^ovember. 
 
 80. Urlaniste (Beurre Picquery of the French). — A 
 large, melting, buttery pear, a tardy bearer on the pear, 
 but succeeds well on the quince. — October and I^ovember. 
 
 81. Yan Mons Leon Leclerc. — A very large pear, four 
 and a half inches in length, and three in diameter, of an 
 orange color at maturity. Tree vigorous and productive, 
 succeeds well on the quince, and bears quite young ; 
 
PEAKS. 309 
 
 cracks a little in some seasons, and should have a rich, 
 warm soil. — October and ]N"ovember. 
 
 82. WasMngton. — A medium sized, beautiful j^ear, sweet 
 and delicious ; a fine grower on the pear, but does not 
 succeed on the quince. — Middle of September. 
 
 83. Wilhmson. — A very hardy and ^^I'oductive Rhode 
 Island variety of second quality, medium size, obovate, 
 yellow, melting, sweet and rich. Tree upright and vigo- 
 rous. — October to I^ovember. 
 
 84. Wilbur. — Medium, obovate, greenish and russety; 
 rather coarse, melting, juicy and good. Native. 
 
 CLASS III. WINTER PEARS. 
 
 85. Beurre cVAremherg. — One of the finest winter 
 pears, large, melting, rich, vinous flavored, ripens well 
 without any extra care ; tree vigorous and productive ; 
 succeeds w^ell on the quince. — December to January. 
 
 86. Beurre^ Easter. — ^A very large, fine melting pear ; 
 better on the quince than on the pear ; keeps till spring. 
 
 87. Beurre Gris cVHiver Nouveau. — A large, new, 
 melting, buttery pear, of the highest quality, flavor rich 
 and vinous, like the brown Beurre, but milder ; tree suc- 
 ceeds well on the quince, bearing quite young. — Novem- 
 ber and December, and may be kept till January. 
 
 88. Beurre Bance. — A fine, melting, rich pear, keep- 
 ing till spring ; tree a j^oor grower. 
 
 89. Chaumontel (English). — A large, fine, buttery, 
 melting, rich pear ; should have a warm soil and situa- 
 tion ; succeeds well on the quince. — December. 
 
 90. Columhia. — A large, handsome, native pear, melt- 
 ing, buttery and rich ; tree vigorous and remarkably pro- 
 ductive ; grows well on the quince with us. — November 
 and January. 
 
 91. Doyenne d? Hiver Nouveau or cTAlengon. — A large 
 
310 SELECT VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 and verj fine late-keeping variety received from France ; 
 golden yellow, with a brown tinge in the sun, melting, 
 buttery and rich ; tree upright and vigorous, and very pro- 
 ductive on the quince ; have had it very fine on the 1st 
 of March, ripened in the cellar ; will prove very valu- 
 able. 
 
 92. Glout Morceau. — A large, melting, buttery, sweet 
 pear ; tree vigorous and productive ; like the Duchesse 
 d'Angouleme, Louise Bonne, and some others, it is de- 
 cidedly superior on the quince, and makes a beautiful 
 pyramid. — December. 
 
 93. Josephine de Malines. — A new Flemish w^inter pear, 
 pronounced both in France and England to be the finest 
 winter variety ; medium in size, melting and rich ; the 
 tree is a moderate grower, with quite small leaves ; it 
 appears to succeed well on the quince ; keeps till spring. 
 
 94. Lawrence. — A fine, large, melting, rich flavored 
 pear, a native of Long Island ; tree a fair grower on both 
 pear and quince ; a regular and abundant bearer. — 1S,q- 
 vember to February. Ripens well in the cellar. 
 
 95. Passe Cohnar.—^'L^rgQ^ buttery, and rich; tree a 
 fine, free grower on both pear and quince ; so disposed to 
 over-fruitfulness that thinning is quite necessary to obtain 
 fine fruit. — December. 
 
 96. Sieulle (Doyenne Sieulle). — A large, roundish, melt- 
 ing pear, that keeps till January ; tree vigorous and up- 
 right ; succeeds remarkably well on the quince. 
 
 97. St. Germahi.^ Princess. — A medium sized, juicy, 
 fine flavored fruit ; ripens in the cellar, like an apple 
 through the winter ; a moderate grower and good bearer. 
 — March. 
 
 98. St. Germ.ain. — An old variety, large, melting, and 
 sweet ; succeeds well on the quince ; bears young and 
 abundantly. — December to January. 
 
 99. Vicar of WinJifeld or Monsieur Le Cure. — A 
 
PEARS. 311 
 
 large, long pear, fair and handsome, of good, but not first- 
 rate quality ; tree a most vigorous grower on both pear 
 and quince, and on the latter makes a beautiful and pro- 
 ductive jDjramid ; one of the most valuable of all late 
 pears. — ^November to January. Kipens well in the cellar. 
 
 100. Wifiter Nelis (Bonne de Maline and Beurre de 
 Maline, of some French catalogues). — One of the best of 
 early winter pears, medium size, melting and buttery, 
 with a rich, sprightly flavor ; tree is rather slender, strag- 
 gling growth. — November and January. 
 
 CLASS IV. SELECT BAKIXG A^"D STEWING PEARS. 
 
 101. Boncliretien (Flemish). — Medium to large size ; 
 tree vigorous, spreading, and irregular, and bears great 
 crops ; keeps through winter. 
 
 102. Bonchretien (Spanish). — Medium to large, pyri- 
 form, tapering to the stalk, yellow with a red cheek ; 
 cooks well. — December and January. 
 
 103. Cattillac. — Yery large, roundish, bears quite young 
 'and abundantly on the quince ; keeps all winter. 
 
 104. Chajptal. — Yery large, somewhat resembling 
 Duchesse d'Angouleme ; keeps till spring ; cooks finely, 
 and is sometimes tolerable for eating ; tree vigorous ; 
 bears very young on the quince. 
 
 105. Easter Bergamot. — Medium size, rough, greenish ; 
 keeps well, and cooks finely ; trees remarkably vigorous, 
 erect, and fruitful ; bears quite young on the quince. 
 
 106. Pound (Angora, Uvedale's St. Germain). — Mon- 
 strous size ; often weighs two pounds ; stews well ; tender, 
 and of a rich crimson color ; trees vigorous, and very pro- 
 ductive ; liable to be blown off standard trees ; succeeds 
 well on the quince, and bears young ; keeps all winter. 
 
312 SELECT VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 SELECT ASSORTMENTS OF PEARS. 
 
 Profitable varieties for marlcet orchards. — Nos. 4, 31, 
 42, 45, 46, 50, 62, 78, 85, 86, 94, 99, 106. 
 
 Ten very hardy iDvolific sorts. — I^os. 20, 24, 25, 52, 59, 
 n% 94, 97, 99, 106. 
 
 The great market pear of Western New York, is the 
 White Doyenne or YirgaUeu. No better can be desired 
 of the season ; for summer the Bartlett. The Windsor 
 or Summer Belle .^ and the Summer Boncliretien^ are both 
 veiy profitable pears, at present brought into our markets 
 in large quantities. Neither of them is described, be- 
 cause it is not desirable to extend their cultivation whilst 
 we have the Bartlett. 
 
 Twenty-five fine varieties for tJie garden.^ on quince 
 stocks.— Nos. 3, 4, 6, 19, 22, 31, 32, 33, 36, 37, 42, 45, 46, 
 53, 62, 68, 76, 78, 79, 85, 86, 87, 92, 99, 106. 
 
 Any or all of these may be chosen without running 
 any risk of a failure. 
 
 First-rate sorts for pear stocks., or to he double worked 
 on the quince.— ^o^. 27, 34, 41, 50, 67, 71. 
 
 NEW AND RARE PEARS, RECENTLY INTRODrCED, THAT GIVE 
 PROMISE OF EXCELLENCE. 
 
 THOSK THAT HAVE BEEN PROVED TO SUCCEED ON THE QUINCE ARE 
 DESIGNATED BY A (q) . 
 
 107. Adele de St. Denis. — New Belgian, medium size, 
 very handsome, russety, melting, vinous, and perfumed. — 
 October. 
 
 108. Arch Due Charles. — Medium size, melting ; tree a 
 vigorous, fine grower, both on pear and quince. — October. 
 
 109. Alpha (New Belgian). — Medium size, greenish 
 yellow, buttery and fine ; highly recommended by Mr. 
 Manning. — October. 
 
PEAUS. 313 
 
 110. A7'hre Coitrbe or Amiral (Yan Mons). — Medium 
 to large, melting and delicious ; branches irregular and 
 crooked. — September. 
 
 111. Belle et Bonne des Zees or Bonne des Zees. — A new, 
 large, and "fine Belgian variety, ripening immediately 
 after the Bartlett ; obovate, yellow, red next the sun ; 
 melting and perfumed. 
 
 112. Brandywine. — Recently introduced by Dr. Brin- 
 kle, of Philadelphia ; originated in that vicinity ; ripens 
 same season as the Bartlett ; obovate, yellow, and slightly 
 russeted ; melting, sweet, and perfumed. — September. 
 
 113. Betirre Benoist. — Large, obovate, yellow with a 
 red cheek ; melting, juicy, and sweet. — October. From 
 France recently ; found in a hedge. 
 
 114. Beurre Bretonneau (Esperin, Belgium). — Medium 
 to large, oval, slightly pyramidal ; half melting ; tree 
 vigorous and productive ; keeps till April or May. 
 
 115. Beurre Clairgeau. — A new French variety, de- 
 scribed to us as being as large as Duchesse d'Angouleme, 
 and of excellent quality. — October and ^N'ovember. 
 
 116. Bezi Sans Pareil. — A new winter variety from 
 France ; large, greenish, half melting. — February. 
 
 117. Beurre Ourtet (Bouvier). — Medium size, melting, 
 and fine (q). — October. French. 
 
 118. Beurre Davis. — Large, melting, productive (q). — 
 October. French. 
 
 119. Beurre JDtmal. — Large, melting ; tree vigorous 
 and productive (q). — October and E'ovember. French. 
 
 120. Beurre Giffard or Giffart. — Medium size, melt- 
 ing ; tree has erect, slender branches ; productive ; one 
 of the best new, early varieties (q). — August. French. 
 
 121. Beurre Goubaidt. — Medium size, roundish, half 
 melting ; tree vigorous and very prolific ; bears quite 
 young (q) ; new. — September. Angers, France. 
 
 122. Beurre Moire. — Medium size, melting ; tree vigo- 
 
 14 
 
314 SELECT VAEIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 roiis and productive (q).— September and October. 
 French. 
 
 123. Beiirre Superfine.— KQ^imo. size, melting, very 
 productive ; new (q). — October. French. 
 
 124. Beurre St. Mcholas.— Large, green, and russet, 
 melting, a little coarse, juicy, and high flavored.— Sep- 
 tember and October. French. 
 
 125. Betirre Hardy. — A new variety introduced by 
 Jamin, of Paris ; large, melting, and good ; tree a vigorous 
 and beautiful grower on the quince. — October. 
 
 126. Beurre de Waterloo. — Medium, obovate pyriform, 
 greenish yellow, with a blush next the sun ; flesh buttery, 
 melting, and high flavored ; received from France in 1843 ; 
 was the best pear we tasted in 1850 ; ripe latter end of 
 October. 
 
 12Y. Beurre Langelier. — A splendid new variety, intro- 
 duced by Mr. Langelier of the isle of Jersey. Mr. Hovey, 
 who has had it bear, gives it the highest character, and thinks 
 it will prove one of the flnest winter varieties from abroad. 
 Large, greenish, with a shade of red in the sun ; melting, 
 juicy, and vinous ; tree a beautiful grower, with large, 
 shining foliage ; succeeds finely on the quince. — Decem- 
 ber and January. 
 
 128. Brandes St. Germain (Yan Mons). — Medium, 
 pyriform, oblong, green and russet, melting, sugary, and 
 rich ; tree vigorovis, shoots slender and spreading. — De- 
 cember to March. Will prove a valuable winter variety ; 
 first introduced by Mr. Manning. 
 
 129. Broom^mrlz (Knight's) English. ■ — Medium, round- 
 ish, of a beautiful cinnamon russet, melting and juicy, 
 " partaking of the flavor of a melon and pine-apple." — 
 January. 
 
 130. Burling hame. — A seedling raised in Marietta, 
 Ohio ; medium size, very productive, melting, and good. 
 — July and August. 
 
PEARS. 315 
 
 131. Colmar Musque. — Medium size, turbinate, golden 
 yellow, texture and flavor of Bartlett ; ripe in October ; 
 a most delicious variety ; bears young and abundantly ; 
 received from France in 1848. 
 
 132. Cahot (Massachusetts). — Medium size, buttery and 
 sweet, very productive. — September and October. 
 
 133. Catinka (Esperin). — Large, meltmg, and excel- 
 lent ; new ; said to be in eating for five or six weeks (q). 
 
 134. Colmar Bonnet (Yan Mons). — Medium size, melt- 
 ing and sugary (q). — September and October. 
 
 135. Colmar d? Areniherg . — Yery large, of second qua- 
 lity ; tree very vigorous and productive (q). — October and 
 ]^ovember. 
 
 136. Commodore. — Medium size, buttery, and sweet. — 
 October. 
 
 137. Chapman (Penn.). — Large, half melting. — Sep- 
 tember and October. 
 
 138. Chancellor (Penn.). — Large, melting, and rich ; 
 new. — September and October. 
 
 139. Delwes de Jodoigne (Bouvier). — Large, melting ; 
 tree vigorous and productive ; new (q). — ^November. 
 
 140. De Bavay. — Large, melting, said to be first quality 
 (q). — September. 
 
 141. Bug de Bordeaux (Epine Dumas). — Medium size, 
 half melting, vigorous, and j)roductive (q). — November. 
 
 142. Be Lejnne. — Medium size, half melting, produc- 
 tive (q). — September. 
 
 143. Belices d'' Hardemjpont. — Medium size to large, 
 melting, productive (q). — N^ovember and December. 
 
 144. Billen or " Boyenne BillenP — Medium size, melt- 
 ing and good (q). — December. 
 
 145. Boyenne Goubault. — Medium size, melting and 
 good, very productive (q). — "Winter. 
 
 146. Boyenne Bohin. — A new variety from Angers, 
 
316 SELECT VAKLETIES OF FEUITS. 
 
 France, said to be very large, beautiful, and excellent ; 
 ripens in October. 
 
 147. Doyenne Rose. — One of the most beautiful of all 
 pears, resembling the White Doyenne in size and form, 
 but not so good ; Same season. 
 
 148. Duchesse de Mars. — Medium, roundish, obovate, 
 pale yellow, fair and smooth, juicy, melting, and very 
 highly perfumed. — October. Received from France in 
 1848 ; succeeds on the quince ; tree rather delicate. 
 
 149. Eyeivood (Knight, Eng.). — Medium size, melting 
 and rich, high flavored. — November. 
 
 150. Ferdinand de Meester.^ or Rousselet de Meester 
 (Yan Mons). — Medium size, melting and good. — Septem- 
 ber and October. 
 
 151. Fleur de Niege. — Medium size, melting and pro- 
 ductive (q). — October. 
 
 152. Fortunee. — Rather small, melting, high flavored ; 
 succeeds well on the quince ; keeps till spring. Episco- 
 pal has proved synonymous with this. 
 
 153. Fredrika Bremer. — A variety recently brought 
 to notice by Mr. John C. Hastings, of Clinton, N. Y. It 
 is large, obovate inclining to pyriform ; green, changing 
 to yellow as it matures ; melting, buttery, and sprightly ; 
 may prove to be a fine variety. October and November. 
 The tree is said to be very productive, and some speci- 
 mens to attain the weight of sixteen omices. 
 
 154. Fondante de Maline. — A new Belgian winter 
 variety, melting and good ; very productive ; succeeds 
 well on the quince. Keeps till February. 
 
 155. Figue. — A very distinct, greenish pear ; medium 
 size, pyriform, stem fleshy; melting, juicy, and good. 
 November. Tree vigorous, and exceedingly productive 
 on the quince. 
 
 156. Gratioli of Jersey. — Medium size, melting ; very 
 sweet and good ; succeeds well on the quince. — October. 
 
PEAKS. 31T 
 
 157. II%ill (Mass.). — Medium size, melting, fair and 
 good. — September and October. 
 
 168. Inconmce Yan Mons. — Medium size, melting, and 
 fine. — January to February. 
 
 159. Jalousie de Fontenay Vendee. — Medium size, 
 melting and ricb ; new. — September. Has proved excel- 
 lent so far. 
 
 160. Joneses Seedling (Pbila.) — l^ew, and said to be 
 excellent ; grows well on the quince. 
 
 161. Kniglifs March Berg amot. — One of Knight's best 
 seedlings, described as resembling the Autumn Bergamot ; 
 buttery and rich ; valuable for its long keeping. — March. 
 Yery hardy and productive. 
 
 162. Kirtland. — A seckel seedling, raised in Ohio by 
 H. P. Kirtland, Esq., and introduced by Prof. Kirtland, 
 of Cleveland, w^ho describes it as medium size, globular- 
 ovate, crimson russet, varying to a dull green ; melting, 
 juicy, rich, and in the highest degree delicious ; tree has 
 the thrifty habit of White Doyenne. — September. 
 
 163. Louise de Boulogne. — Large, breaking, keeps 
 through winter ; succeeds on the quince. 
 
 164. Louise d''Qrleans (Yan Mons). — Medium size, 
 oblong, brownish green ; melting and sugary. — IN'ovember. 
 
 165. Mocaas (Knight's, Eng.). — Medium size, obovate, 
 brown ; melting, juicy, and high flavored ; tree very 
 hardy and productive. — December. 
 
 166. Monarcli (Knight's). — Spurious varieties have been 
 disseminated. The true one is large, roundish obovate, 
 brownish, buttery, and slightly musky ; tree hardy and 
 productive, but a tardy bearer ; succeeds double worked 
 on the quince. — January. 
 
 167. Muskingum. — A native of Ohio ; rather large, 
 roundish, greenish yellow, russeted, melting, juicy, sweet, 
 and high flavored. September. It is said to be hardy, 
 productive, and a fine grower; may prove valuable. 
 
318 SELECT VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 168. McLaughlin. — A native of Maine ; medium size, 
 obovate, brownish yellow ; a little coarse, but juicy and 
 rich ; very hardy and productive ; may be valuable for 
 the ISTorth. — November and December. 
 
 169. Nouveau Poiteau (Yan Mons).— A large, fine, melt 
 ing pear ; has fruited at Boston, and is pronounced excel- 
 lent. — October and November. Tree vigorous and pro- 
 ductive. 
 
 lYO. Osborne. — Medium to small, bright yellow, melt- 
 ing, juicy, and sweet ; tree vigorous ; originated in 
 Indiana, proves good at Cincinnati ; may prove a valu- 
 able early variety for the West. — August at Cincinnati. 
 
 ITl. Passe Tardive. — Large, breaking, productive ; for 
 cooking all through winter. 
 
 172. Queeii of the Low Countries. — Medium to large, 
 half-melting.^October and November. 
 
 173. Peine d^Hiver. — Medium, half-melting; produc- 
 tive. — December to January. 
 
 174. Seigneur d'^Esperin. — Medium size, melting ; first 
 quality. — October. 
 
 175. St. Andre. — Medium size, half-melting, very pro- 
 ductive. — October and November. 
 
 176. Sageret. — Medium size, melting, sweet and sugary. 
 — December to March. 
 
 177. St. Michael ArcJiangel.—Lsirge, melting, very 
 productive. — October. 
 
 178. Suzette de Bavay. — Medium, melting, first quality, 
 remarkably productive ; is said to keep all winter ; best in 
 March and April. 
 
 179. St. Dorothee. — Large to medium, greenish yellow, 
 russeted; melting, sprightly, and fine. October. This 
 has borne with Mr. Hovey, who gives it a very high 
 character. 
 
 180. Triom])he de Jodoigne (Bouvier).— Very large, 
 
QUINCES. 319 
 
 melting ; tree very vigorous and productive. IN'ovember 
 and December. Has proved good at Boston. 
 
 181. Tarquin. — Large, coarse; for cooking only; tree 
 very vigorous and productive ; is said to keep two years. 
 
 182. Viscomte Spoelherg. — Medium size to small, yellow 
 tinged with red next the sun ; buttery and melting ; first- 
 rate under good culture ; succeeds w^ell on the quince. — 
 IS^ovember. 
 
 Section 3. — Quinces. 
 
 1. A^j)le-Shwped or Orange. — Large, roundish, with a 
 short neck ; of a bright golden yellow color ; tree has 
 rather slender shoots and oval leaves ; very productive. 
 This is the variety most extensively cultivated for the 
 fruit. — Ripe in October. 
 
 2. Pear-Shaped. — This has generally more of a pyri- 
 form shape than the preceding ; the fruit is larger and 
 finer, the tree stronger. 
 
 3. Portugal. — The fruit of this is more oblong than the 
 preceding, of a lighter color and better quality, but not 
 so good a bearer ; the shoots are stouter, and the leaves 
 thicker and broader ; usually propagated by budding or 
 grafting on the Apple Quince. A week or two later than 
 the Apple. 
 
 4. Angers. — A variety of the Portugal, the strongest 
 grower of all the quinces, and the best for pear stocks. 
 The fruit is also said to be larger and rather better than 
 any of the others. We have not seen it yet, but expect 
 our trees to bear this season, 1851. 
 
 5. Upright. — A variety w^ith slender erect branches; 
 grows more freely from cuttings than any other. We 
 have not fruited it, nor found it anywhere described, but 
 have trees now showins; fruit buds. Received amono- 
 stocks from France. 
 
320 SELECT YAEIETIES OF FKUITS. 
 
 0. Chinese. — Usually cultivated for ornament. Quite 
 different in appearance from the others. The leaves are 
 glossy, sharply and beautifully toothed ; the fruit is large, 
 oblong, bright yellow, and keeps till spring ; little used. 
 The flowers are large and showy, with the fragrance of 
 the violet ; worked on the other sorts ; rather tender, 
 requiring a sheltered situation. A very tardy bearer. 
 
 7. Ja^an. — This is very distinct from all the others ; 
 very bushy, thorny, and hardy. There are two varieties. 
 The common one has beautiful bright red blossoms, and 
 the other blush ; the most beautiful of all our hardy 
 spring flowering shrubs. Fruit about as large as a 
 chicken's Qgg ; green, and quite unfit for use. 
 
 SECOND DIVISION.— STONE FRUITS— APRICOTS, CHERRIES, 
 PEACHES, NECTARINES AND PLUMS. 
 
 Section 4. — Select Apkicots. 
 
 1. Breda. — Small, round, dull orange, marked with red 
 in the sun, flesh orange colored, juicy, rich and vinous ; 
 parts from the stone, kernel sweet, tree hardy, robust and 
 prolific. — ^End of July and beginning of August. 
 
 2. Early Golden (Dubois). — Small, pale orange, flesh 
 orange, juicy and sweet ; kernel sweet ; tree very hardy 
 and productive. The original tree at Fishkill is said to 
 have yielded $90 w^orth of fruit in one season. — Beginning 
 of July. 
 
 3. Large Early. — Large, orange, with a red cheek, flesh 
 sweet, rich and excellent, parts from the stone ; tree vigo- 
 rous and productive. — Beginning of August. 
 
 4. Moorjpark. — One of the largest and finest apricots, 
 yellow, with a red cheek, flesh orange, sweet, juicy and 
 rich, parts from the stone ; growth rather slow, but stout 
 and short jointed ; very productive. 
 
CHEEEEES. 321 
 
 5. Orange. — Medium size, orange, with a ruddy cheek, 
 flesh rather dry, requires ripening in the house ; adheres 
 slightly to the stone. — End of July. 
 
 6. Peach. — A very large, handsome and excellent va- 
 riety, quite similar to the Moorpark ; the shoots are not so 
 short jointed, and the fruit a degree larger. 
 
 T. — PuTjple or Black Apricot. — ^This is quite distinct in 
 all respects from others, very much like a plum, small, 
 pale red, purple in the sun, flesh yellow, juicy and plea- 
 sant. The tree has slender dark shoots, and small, oval, 
 glossy foliage. It is as hardy as a plum, and therefore 
 worthy of attention where the finer sorts are too tender. 
 — August. 
 
 Nos. 1 and 2 are the surest and most abundant bearers, 
 but 3, 4 and 6 are the largest and finest. No. 7 is only 
 recommended by its hardiness, for localities where the 
 others do not succeed. 
 
 Section 5. — Select Cheeeies. 
 class i. heaet cheeeies. 
 
 Fruit heart shaped, with tender sweet flesh. Trees of 
 rapid growth, with large, soft drooping leaves. 
 
 1. American Amher. — Medium size, amber, shaded and 
 mottled with bright red; tender, juicy, sweet and deli- 
 cious ; hangs very long on the tree without rotting ; re- 
 markably vigorous and productive. — End of June till mid- 
 dle of July. 
 
 2. Bauman^s May. — Small, dark red; tender, juicy 
 and sweet. Tree a vigorous grower, and a most abundant 
 bearer. Eipens very early ; middle of June here. French. 
 
 3. Blach Heart. — An excellent old variety ; rather large, 
 black, tender, juicy and rich. Tree grows large, and is 
 very prolific. — Beginning of July. French. 
 
 14" 
 
322 SELECT VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 4. Black Eagle. — Large, black, tender, jnicy, ricli and 
 liigh flavored. Tree a rapid, stout grower and productive. 
 Eipe beginning of July to the 15tli. English. 
 
 5. Black Tartarian. — Yerj large, purplish black, half 
 tender; flavor mild and pleasant. Tree a remarkably 
 vigorous, erect and beautiful grower, and an immense 
 bearer. — Ripe last of June and beginning of July. One 
 of the most poj^ular varieties in all parts of the country. 
 Russian. 
 
 6. Burros Seedling. — Large, j)ointed; flesh color in the 
 shade, j^ale red in the sun ; tender, sw^eet and delicious. 
 In luxuriant foliage and stateliness of growth it surpasses 
 even the Black Tartarian. — Beginning of July. ]^ew; 
 origin, Perrinton, Monroe county. New York. 
 
 Y. Coe'^s Transparent. — Medium size, pale amber, red 
 and mottled next the sun ; tender, sweet and fine. — End 
 of June here. Tree vigorous and erect. Origin, Middle- 
 town, Conn. 
 
 8. Davenport'' s Early. — Yery similar in all respects to 
 Black Heart, but a few days earlier. American. 
 
 9. Downer'' s Late Red. — Rather large, light red, tender 
 and juicy; slightly bitter until fully ripe, when it is 
 most delicious. Tree is a vigorous erect grower, and pro- 
 ductive. — Tenth to twentieth of July. American, and one 
 of the best of all. 
 
 10. Earhj White Heart. — Medium size, yellowish white, 
 red in the sun; tender and sweet, growth moderately 
 vigorous and erect. — Middle and last of June. 
 
 11. Early Purple Guigne. — Small to medium size, pur- 
 ple, tender, juicy and sweet. Growth slender and spread- 
 ing. — Ripe at same time as Bauman's May. French. 
 
 12. Elton. — Large, pointed ; pale yellow, nearly covered 
 with light red; half tender, juicy, rich and delicious. 
 Tree vigorous, spreading and irregular. — ^End of June. 
 English. 
 
CIIERKIES. 323 
 
 13. KnigJit-s Early Black. — Large, black, tender, juicy, 
 rich and excellent. Tree vigorous and very productive ; 
 branches spreading. — Ripe a few days before Black Tar- 
 tarian. English. 
 
 14. Manning^s Mottled. — Rather large, amber shaded 
 and mottled distinctly with red ; tender, sweet and deli- 
 cious. Tree erect, vigorous and productive. — End of June. 
 Massachusetts. 
 
 15. Siveet Montmorency. — Small, light red, tender and 
 sweet. Tree vigorous, erect and productive. — Ripens 
 about the same time as Sparhawk's Honey, or a few days 
 later. American. 
 
 16. White French Giiigne (probably the " Merisier a 
 gros fruit blanc," of the French). — A distinct and beauti- 
 ful cherry, rather large, creamy white, flesh tender and 
 melting; juice colorless, sweet, with a scarcely percepti- 
 ble degree of bitterness ; not attacked by the birds, like 
 red and black cherries. Tree is vigorous and very pro- 
 ductive. — Middle of July. French. 
 
 17. WilM7iso7i. — Medium size, black, tender, juicy and 
 rich. Tree vigorous, erect and productive. — Rij)ens late, 
 succeeds Downer's. Massachusetts. 
 
 18. SparhawWs Honey. Medium size, roundish, light 
 red, sweet and delicious ; stone large. Tree a vigorous, 
 pyramidal grower and very productive. — Ripens with 
 Dow^ner's late, and hangs long on the tree ; a great favo- 
 rite with most people. Massachusetts. 
 
 CLASS n. BIGAEREAU CHEKEIES. 
 
 These are chiefly distinguished from the preceding 
 class by their firmer flesh. Their growth is vigorous, 
 branches spreading, and foliage luxuriant, soft and droop- 
 ing. 
 
 19. Bigarreau., or Yellow Spanish — Large, pale yel- 
 
S2J: SELECT YAKIETIES OF FKUITS. 
 
 low, with a bright red cheek in the sun ; flesh Urm, juicy 
 and delicious; one of the best, most beautiful, and popular 
 of all light colored cherries. Tree vigorous and j)rodvic- 
 tive. — End of June. Turkish. 
 
 20. Buttner's Yellow. — Medium size, yellow, flesh crisp, 
 juicy and sweet. Tree vigorous and productive. Its pe- 
 culiar and beautiful color makes this sort desirable. — End 
 of July. 
 
 21. China Bigarreaxi. — Medium size, oval, red, beauti- 
 fully speckled ; firm, sweet and rich, with a scarcely per- 
 ceptible bitterness. Tree vigorous, erect, and a most pro- 
 fuse bearer ; a very distinct and pretty variety. — Begin- 
 ning of July. Hangs long on the tree. 
 
 22. Flesh-Colored Bigarreau (Bigarrean couleur de 
 chair). — A large and beautiful cherry, resembling the 
 Elton, and ripening about the same time. Erench. 
 
 23. Flwence. — A beautiful cherry, resembling the Bi- 
 garreau ; but firmer, and a week later. Erom Elorence. 
 
 24. Gridley or Ajpjple Cherry. — Medium size, dark 
 brown, nearly black; flesh very firm, sprightly sub-acid, 
 high flavored. Tree grows rapidly and erect, and bears 
 immense crops. Its firmness and lateness make it very 
 valuable for market. — Middle to last of July. Mass. 
 
 25. Hildesheim Bigarreau. — Medium size, yellow, red 
 in the sun ; flesh firm, sweet and agreeable. Tree is a 
 good grower, but the ends of the young shoots are a23t to 
 get winter killed here. — Beginning of August. German. 
 
 26. Holland Bigarreaic. — ^A very large and beautiful 
 '-•herry; pale yellow, covered with bright red in the sun; 
 flesh firm, juicy, sweet and fine flavored. Tree vigorous, 
 with spreading, irregular branches. — End of June and be- 
 ginning of July. Dutch. 
 
 27. Large Heart-shaped Bigarreau (Gros Couret). — 
 Large, dark, shining brown ; firm, rich and excellent. 
 
CHEEEIES. 325 
 
 Tree vigorous, branches sj)reading. — Middle of July. 
 French. 
 
 28. Madison Bigarrecm. — Medium size, amber, co- 
 vered with red in the sun ; flesh half tender, sweet and 
 fine flavored. — End of June and beginning of July. 
 American. 
 
 29. Merveille de Sejyt. — A new French cherry, remark- 
 able only for its lateness. — Eipens with us the last of 
 August. Tree a vigorous grower and good bearer. Fruit 
 small, firm, rather dry and sweet. 
 
 30. Nai)oleon Bigarrecm. — A magnificent, large cherry, 
 surpassing in size and beauty all the others ; pale yellow, 
 with a bright red cheek; flesh very flrm until fully ripe, 
 when it becomes tender, juicy and sweet. Tree is a 
 vigorous grower, and bears enormous crops. — Beginning 
 of July. French. 
 
 31. Rockport Bigarreau (Dr. Ivirkland). — Large, pale 
 amber in the shade, light red in the sun ; half tender, 
 sweet and good. Tree vigorous and erect. — ^y^q same 
 time as Black Tartarian. Ohio. 
 
 32. Tradescanfs Black Heart (Elkhorn). — Yery large, 
 black, firm, juicy and good. Tree vigorous and upright, 
 with peculiar gray bark. A great bearer, and so late as 
 to be very valuable. — Middle and last of July. England. 
 
 33. Tardive d^ Argental. — Large, long, dark, shining, 
 red, nearly black ; tender, when ripe ; juicy, with a pecu- 
 liar flavor, something like raspberry. Tree is an upright, 
 vigorous grower, with peculiar small, light, wavy leaves. 
 —Middle of July. 
 
 CLASS ni. DUKE AND MOEELLO CHERKIES. 
 
 These two classes of cherries are very distinct from the 
 preceding. The trees are of smaller size and grow 
 slowly ; the leaves are thicker and more erect, and of a 
 
326 SELECT VAKIETIES OF FKUITS. 
 
 deeper green. The fruit is grenerally roTincl, and in color 
 varj^ing from light red, like Belle de CJioisy^ to dark 
 brown, like Maydiike or Morello. 
 
 The Dukes have stout, erect branches usually, and some 
 of them, like Belle de Choisy and Beine Hortense^ quite 
 sweet, wdiilst the Morellos have slender, spreading 
 branches, and acid fruit invariably. These two classes 
 are peculiarly appropriate for dwarfs and pyramids, on 
 the mahaleb stock, and their hardiness renders them w^ell 
 worthy of attention in localities where the Hearts and 
 Bigarreaus are too tender. 
 
 31. Belle de Ohoisy. — Medium size, amber shaded and 
 mottled w^ith red ; tender, melting, sweet and rich ; rather 
 a shy bearer ; tree makes a pretty pyramid. — End of 
 June. French. 
 
 35. Belle Magnifique. — A magnificent, large, red, late 
 cherry ; excellent for cooking, and fine for table when 
 fully ripe, rather acid, tender, juicy, rich ; tree is a slow 
 grower, but a most profuse bearer ; makes a fine dwarf 
 or a pyramid on the mahaleb. — Last of July. French. 
 
 36. Carnation. — Large, light, red mottled with orange; 
 tender, juicy, a little acid, rich, and excellent; tree is a 
 good grower and a profuse bearer ; makes a fine dwarf. — 
 Middle and last of July. 
 
 37. Donna Maria. — Medium size, dark red, tender, 
 juicy, acid, rich, fine for cooking ; tree small, very pro- 
 lific—Middle of July. French. 
 
 38. Du Word Nouvelle. — A new French morello, ripens 
 all through August ; medium size, bright red, tender, 
 acid ; useful on account of its lateness ; makes a beau- 
 tiful dwarf or pyramid. 
 
 39. Early Richmond.^ Kentish or Montmorency, — An 
 early, red, acid cherry, very valuable for cooking early in 
 the season. — Kipens through June. 
 
 40. FlemisJi Moritmoreney . — A remarkably short-stem- 
 
CHERRIES. 327 
 
 med, flattened cherry ; medium size, red, tender, juicy, 
 acid, good for cooking ; rather a poor bearer, but curious. 
 
 41. IncluUe., Nain Precoce. — ^The earliest of all cher- 
 ries, ripening about the last of May or first of June ; it is 
 dwarf in habit, and makes a pretty bush on the mahaleb 
 stock ; the foliage is small, dark, and glossy, and it is 
 quite prolific. French. 
 
 42. Jeffries Duke. — Medium size, red, tender, sub-acid ; 
 branches erect and stiff; makes a beautiful pyramid. — ■ 
 Middle of June. 
 
 43. Late Diike. — Large, light red, late and excellent ; 
 tree makes a nice dwarf or pyramid. — End of July. 
 
 44. May Duke. — An old, w^ell known, excellent variety, 
 large, dark red, juicy, sub-acid, rich ; tree hardy, vigo- 
 rous, and fruitful ; ripens a long time in succession ; fine 
 for dwarfs and pyramids. — Middle of June, for several 
 weeks. 
 
 45. Morello (English). — Large, dark red, nearly black, 
 tender, juicy, sub-acid, rich ; tree small and slender ; 
 makes a fine bush on the mahaleb ; if trained on a north 
 wall, it may be in use through all the rnonth of August. 
 
 46. Plumstone Morello. — Large, dark red, rich and 
 fine ; the best of all the morellos ; tree a slender, slow 
 grower ; makes a nice bush on the mahaleb. — July and 
 August. 
 
 47. Reine Hortense.^ Monstreuse de Bavay. — A new 
 French, cherry of great excellence ; large, bright red, 
 tender, juicy, nearly sweet, and delicious ; tree vigorous, 
 and bears well ; makes a beautiful pyramid. 
 
 NEW AND RARE CHERRIES RECENTLY BROUGHT TO NOTICE. 
 
 48. Bigarreau Monstreuse de Mezel. — A very large, 
 fine variety, recently introduced from France, but not 
 fully equal to the character given it in the French jour- 
 
32S SELECT VAEIETIES OF FEUITS. 
 
 nals. It is quite as large as Tradescanfs Blacky and 
 somewhat similar in form ; of a dark red, approaching a 
 mahogany color when ripe ; very firm ; tree of a vigorous 
 habit, similar to the Elton. 
 
 49. Belle d' Orleans. — A beautiful medium sized pale 
 cherry, ripening immediately after Bauman's May and 
 Early Purple ; from France. 
 
 50. ChainjMg^ie. — A new variety, raised by Mr. Charles 
 Downing, of l^ewburgh ; described in " Hort.," vol. v., as 
 being very hardy, a great bearer, fruit medium size, brick 
 red, " with a lively rich flavor, a mingling of sugar and 
 acid ;" ripe twentieth of June, and hangs long on the 
 tree. 
 
 51. Downing' s Bed Cheeh. — This is also described in 
 the " Hort.," as " far handsomer, as well as more tender 
 and sweet, than the Bigarreau or Graffion, which it some- 
 what resembles," and precedes a few days in ripening. 
 
 52. Great Bigarreau. — This name has been given by 
 Mr. Downing " temporarily, until its real name be 
 found," to a very large, fine cherry, recently brought into 
 notice by Mr. L. M. Ferris, of Orange county, ISTew York, 
 who found it among imported fruit trees growing upon 
 an estate of which he has recently come into 230ssession. 
 It is described as larger than the Black Tartarian, and 
 fully equal in quality, and ripening a few days later; 
 described in " Hort.," in January, 1851. 
 
 53. Weio Large Black Bigarreau. — Described in " Ho- 
 vey's Magazine," December, 1850, as brought from the 
 south of France fifteen or twenty years ago, by a gentle- 
 man of Charlestown, Mass. No doubt, identical with 
 " the Great Bigarreau" of Mr. Downing ; and as it has 
 been known for many years by this name, it will, of 
 course, take the preference if they prove identical. 
 
 54. Roberts^ Bed Hea/rt. — A heait variety, raised in 
 
CHEEEIES. 329 
 
 Salem, Mass., medium size, pale amber, mottled with red, 
 juicy, and sweet; a great bearer ; ripe last of June. 
 
 55. VaiVs August Diike. — This is described as being 
 one third larger than the May Duke^ and ripening at 
 Troy about the eighth or tenth of August ; of a bright red 
 color and flavor like the May Duke ; originated by Henry 
 Yail, Esq., of Troy ; described in "Hort.," vol. iv. 
 
 SMALL SELECT LISTS. 
 
 For the Garden.— Eo^. 11, 13, 4, M, 12, 9, 34, 35, and 
 45. 
 
 For the Market Orchard.— Eo^. 5, 19, 30, 24, 32, 4, 
 and 13. 
 
 For Small Hardy Trees.— Eos. 34, 35, 36, 41, 45, 46, 
 47, and 39. 
 
 Section 6. — Select U^ectahines. 
 
 The nectarine tree differs in nothing from a jjeach, and 
 the fruit only in being smooth skinned. It is peculiarly 
 liable to be destroyed by the curculio, so that it is not 
 advisable to plant it in small gardens. 
 
 1. Boston. — Large, bright yellow, with a red cheek ; 
 flesh yellow, sweet and pleasant flavor, freestone. — First 
 of September. 
 
 2. Doivnto7i. — Large, greenish white, with a dark red 
 cheek ; flesh greenish white, rich and high flavored ; one 
 of the best. Free. 
 
 3. Early Violet^ Yiolette Hative. — Medium size, yel- 
 lowish green, with a purple cheek ; flesh pale green, melt- 
 ing, rich and high flavored. Free. — Last of August. 
 
 4. Elruge. — Medium size, greenish yellov/, with a dark 
 red cheek ; flesh greenish white, juicy, and high flavored ; 
 excellent. — Beginning of September. Free. 
 
330 SELECT YAEIETIES OF FKIJITS. 
 
 5. Early Newington. — Large, pale green, red in the 
 sun ; flesh pale, red at the stone, juic}', and rich ; adheres 
 to the stone. Cling. 
 
 6. Ilunfs Tawny. — Medium size ; yellow, with a red 
 cheek ; flesh yellow, rich, and juicy- — Beginning of Au- 
 gust. Free. 
 
 7. Hardwich Seedling. — Large, ]3ale green, with a vio- 
 let red cheek ; flesh pale green, juicy, melting, and rich. 
 — End of August. Free. 
 
 Kos. 2, 3, and 4, were recommended for general culti- 
 vation by the Pomological Congress at ITew York in 
 1849. 
 
 The Gi'eat Stanwieh Nectarine.^ of which so much has 
 been said in England, will soon be introduced here, and 
 will be well worthy the attention of those who can give 
 it a wall or a place under glass. 
 
 Section 7. — Select Peaches. 
 class i. freestones. 
 
 Fl. S. DENOTES SMALL FLOWERS ; gl. GLANDS ; glob. GLOBOSE ; AND 
 
 ren. reniform. 
 
 1. AVoerge Yellow (Barnard's, Yellow Rare-Ripe, etc.). 
 — Large, deep yellow, with a dull red cheek, flesh yellow, 
 juicy, and rich ; tree vigorous, hardy, and productive. — 
 Beginning of September. Fls. small, globose glands. 
 
 2. Bergen^s Yellow. — Yery large, orange, red in the 
 sun ; flesh yellow, juicy and fine flavored ; tree produc- 
 tive. This is considered one of the best of yellow ]3eaches. 
 — Middle of September. Glands ren. fl. small. 
 
 3. Brevoort.) or JBrevoorfs 3f orris. — Large, dull white, 
 with a red cheek ; flesh j^ale, sweet, and fine flavored ; a 
 good and regular bearer. — Beginning of September. Fls. 
 small, glands ren. 
 
PEACHES. 331 
 
 4. CoWs Early Bed, — Medium size, mostly clouded 
 and mottled with red ; flesh pale, juicy, rich, and deli- 
 cious ; tree vigorous, and an abundant bearer. — Middle 
 of August. Glands globose, flowers small. 
 
 5. Cooled ge's Favorite. — A most beautiful and excellent 
 peach ; skin white, delicately mottled with red ; flesh 
 pale, juicy, and rich ; tree vigorous and productive. — 
 Middle to end of August. Flowers small, globose glands. 
 
 6. GraiofoixVs Early. — A magnificent, large, yellow 
 peach, of good quality ; tree exceedingly vigorous and 
 prolific ; its size, beauty, and productiveness, make it one 
 of the most popular orchard varieties. — Beginning of 
 September. Glands globose, flowers small. 
 
 7. Crawford^s Late Melocoton (Crawford's Superb). — 
 Really a superb yellow peach, very large, productive and 
 good, ripening about the close of the peach season. — Last 
 of September. Glands globose, fl. small. 
 
 8. Druid Hill. — Large, roundish, greenish white, cloud- 
 ed with red next the sun ; flesh greenish white, juicy, and 
 rich ; very productive. — Middle of SejDtember. Origin- 
 ated at Baltimore. Fl. s. gl. glob. 
 
 9. Early Newhigton Free. — Large, whitish, with a red 
 cheek ; flesh pale, red at the stone, rich and vinous flavor. 
 — End of August. Fl. s. gl. ren. 
 
 10. Early Anne (Green E"utmeg). — Small, greenish 
 white, with a red cheek ; flesh pale, sweet, and good. — 
 End of July. Flowers large, no glands, unthrifty, and 
 liable to mildew ; only recommended for its earliness. 
 
 11. Early Yorh (Early Purple, Serrate Early York, 
 etc.). — Medium size ; on young thrifty trees large, green- 
 ish white, covered in the sun with dull purplish red ; flesh 
 juicy, rich and excellent ; tree a fair grower and very 
 prolific ; one of the best early orchard varieties. — Middle 
 of August. Leaves serrate, flowers large. 
 
 12. Early Tillotson. — ^An excellent variety, ripening- 
 
882 SELECT VAEIETIES OF FEUITS. 
 
 with the preceding, about the same size, and of excellent 
 flavor ; the tree is sometimes considerably affected with 
 mildew, and in jDarticular cases the fruit also ; it should 
 have warm, light soil, and open exjDOSure. Serrate, fls. 
 small. 
 
 13. George the Fourth, — Large, white, with a red 
 cheek ; flesh pale, juicj, and rich ; tree vigorous, and 
 bears moderate crops, of the highest quality. — End of 
 August. Gl. glob., fls. small. 
 
 14. Grosse Mignonne. — Large, dull white, with a red 
 cheek ; flesh pale, juicy, with a rich, vinous flavor ; a free 
 grower and good bearer. In England it is called " the best 
 peach in cultivation." — End of August. Flowers large, 
 globose glands. 
 
 15. Haine's Early. — Large, white, with a red cheek ; 
 flesh pale, juicy, and delicious ; tree hardy and very pro- 
 ductive ; one of the best varieties. — Middle of August. 
 Els. small, glob. gl. 
 
 16. Jacques' Rare-Ripe. — A su]3erb yellow peach, full 
 as large and as good as Crawford's early, and ripening a 
 week or ten days later ; origin, Massachusetts. Glands 
 ren. fl. s. 
 
 IT. Large Early YorTc. — A large and beautiful variety, 
 white, with a red cheek ; flesh juicy and delicious ; tree 
 very vigorous and productive ; one of the very best, — 
 End of August. Gl. glob. fl. s. 
 
 18. Late Red BaTe-Ltipe. — Large, roundish oval, grey- 
 ish white, marbled with red in the sun ; flesh pale, rich 
 and fine. — Beginning of September. Fl. s. gl. glob. 
 
 19. Late Admirahle. — Large, roundish, oval, yellowish 
 green, with a red cheek ; flesh jDale, fine flavored. — End 
 of September. Fl. s. gl. glob. 
 
 20. La, Grange. — Large, greenish white, slightly red- 
 dened in the sun, flesh pale, juicy, sweet, and rich. Its 
 lateness and color make it a desirable variety for pre- 
 
PEACHES. 333 
 
 serving. It should have the warmest soil and situation 
 north of 'New York, or it will not ripen well. — Last of Sep- 
 tember or beginning of October ; fl. small, glands ren. 
 
 21. Morris^ White. — Medium size, dull creamy white, 
 tinged with red in the sun, flesh white to the stone, juicy 
 and delicious ; tree a good bearer ; highly prized for 
 preserving on account of the entire absence of red in the 
 flesh. — Middle of September ; gl. ren., fl. small. 
 
 22. Morris* Hed Rare Ripe. — Large, roundish, green- 
 ish white, with a red cheek, -flesh pale, light red at the 
 stone, juicy and rich; trees very productive; fl. small, 
 glands glob. ; similar to George lY. 
 
 23. Old Mixon Freestone. — Large, greenish white and 
 red, flesh pale, juicy, and rich ; tree hardy and exceed- 
 ingly productive ; a standard orchard variety. — Middle 
 of September for the north. 
 
 24. Red Rare Ripe (Ey. Red Rare Ripe). — A fine old 
 sort, whitish, with a dark red cheek ; flesh i^ale, rich, and 
 high flavored. — End of August. Slightly subject to mil- 
 dew ; fl. small ; frequently comfounded with the follow- 
 ing: 
 
 25. Royal Kensington. — Yery similar to, if not iden- 
 tical with the Grosse Mignonne ; several varieties of white 
 fleshed j^eaches are cultivated about Rochester as the 
 " Kensington." 
 
 26. Royal George. — Medium to large size, white, v/itli 
 a deep red cheek, flesh white, deep red at the stone, juicy, 
 melting and rich ; tree productive. — End of August ; fl. 
 small. 
 
 27. Red Cheeh Melocoton. — A famous, old, well known, 
 and popular variety ; large, oval, yellow, with a red 
 cheek ; flesh yellow, juicy, rich and vinous ; tree very 
 hardy and prolific ; valuable for the orchard. — Middle to 
 end of September. Glands glob., fl. small. 
 
 28. Snow Peach. — A beautiful fruit, medium size, skin 
 
334 SELECT VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 and flesh clear, creamy white througliout ; tree hardy and 
 productive, and shoots greenish, very distinct, and one of 
 the most desirable of white peaches for preserving. — 
 Beginning to middle of September ; fl. small, white. 
 
 29. Scott' s Nonjpareil. — A new, very large and fine yel- 
 low peach, from New Jersey, highly esteemed as a valu- 
 able market variety. — Middle to end of September; fl. 
 small, glands glob. 
 
 30. Van Zandfs Su^jctI). — A beantiful smooth fruit, 
 large size, whitish, with a red cheek ; flesh pale, juicy, 
 sweet, and good. — First of September; fl. small, glands 
 glob. ; origin, Long Island. 
 
 31. Wavcfs Late Free. — Large, yellowish white, with a 
 red cheek ; flesh pale, juicy, and good ; a standard pro- 
 fitable late sort among the Delaware orchardists ; will 
 probably not ripen north of ]N^ew York. 
 
 32. Weldh Freestone. — A very large, roundish oval, late 
 peach ; greenish white, streaked and marbled w^ith red 
 next the sun ; flesh pale, pale, juicy, and good ; never 
 fails to give an abundant crop at Rochester. Beginning 
 to middle of October ; fl. small, glands ren. ; succeeds 
 well in Massachusetts. 
 
 33. White Imjyerial. — Medium to large size, pale, yel- 
 lowish white, faintly marked with red ; flesh pale, jnicy, 
 sweet, and good ; tree vigorous ; fl. small, gl. glob. 
 
 CLASS n. — CLINGSTONES. 
 
 34. Heath Cling. — A magnificent late peach, cream 
 colored, with a light blush next the sun ; flesh greenish 
 white, tender, juicy, and of the highest flavor ; fl. small, 
 glands ren. ; tree very productive. — Ripe in October ; and 
 has the rare property of keeping w^ell for several weeks 
 after being gathered ; should be grown on a trellis or wall 
 north of IN'ew York to bring it to perfection. 
 
PLUMS. 335 
 
 35. Large White Cling. — Large, greenish white, lightly 
 reddened in the sun, jnicv, sweet, and rich ; tree very 
 hardy and productive ; highly esteemed for preserving on 
 account of its light color ; fl. small, glands glob. 
 
 36. Lemon Cling. — A very large and beautiful lemon- 
 shaped variety, light yellow, reddened in the sun ; flesh 
 yellow, rich, and vinous ; excellent for preserving ; tree 
 hardy and productive. — End of September. Glands ren., 
 fl. small. 
 
 37. Old Mixon Clingstone. — Large, round, whitish, with 
 a red cheek ; flesh pale, sweet, and rich flavored ; fl. 
 small, glands glob. — Beginning of September. 
 
 38. Old Newington Cling. — Large, yellowish white, with 
 a red cheek ; flesh 23ale, red at the stone, rich, juicy, and 
 good. — Middle of September ; fl. large ; no glands. 
 
 Select listyS of Peaches. — Our most profitable orchard 
 varieties in "Western I^ew York are, IsTos. 1, 4, 6, 11, 15 
 or 17, 23, 27, and No. 6, the most valuable single variety, 
 on account of its great size and beauty, and the vigor and 
 productiveness of the tree. 
 
 Select Garden Varieties.— ^o^. 2, 4, 5, 11, 13, 21, 23, 
 and 28. 
 
 Kobert Manning selects for l^ew England, out of seventy 
 varieties that he has tested, Kos. 11, 13, 22, 6, 2, 19, 37, 
 7, besides Nivette and Walter's Early. These ten he con- 
 siders " unimpeachable," and I^o. 6 he considers com- 
 bines, in the greatest degree, all desirable quality. With 
 these he recommends Nos. 5, 4, 14, 16, 21, 16, 27, 36, and 
 32, with several others we have not thought it necessary 
 to describe. He ranks them in regard to relative merit 
 as the numbers are placed. 
 
 Section 7'. — Select Pltjms. 
 1. Autumn Gage^ or Roe^s Autumn Gage. — Medium 
 
336 SELECT VAKIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 size, oval, pale yellow, sweet, juicy and good ; parts from 
 the stone ; tree a slow grower, but very productive. — 
 Middle to end of September. 
 
 2. BingJiam. — Large and handsome, oval, deep yellow, 
 with a few red spots ; juicy and rich ; parts from the 
 stone ; tree very productive. — 'Beginning of September. 
 
 3. Bleeker'^s Gage. — Above medium size, roundish oval, 
 yellowish ; flesh yellow, juicy, and rich ; parts from 
 the stone ; tree a fair grower and productive. — Last of 
 August. 
 
 4. Cherry^ or Early Scarlet. — Rather small, round, red, 
 very pretty, juicy, soft, sub-acid, adheres to the stone. — 
 Last of July. Makes a very ^^retty dwarf bush. 
 
 5. Coe's Golden Drop. — Large and handsome, oval, light 
 yellow, flesh firm, rich and sweet ; adheres to the stone ; 
 tree a fair grower and very productive, but does not bear 
 so young as many others ; valuable not only on account 
 of its large size and fine appearance, but its lateness and 
 hanging long on the tree. — Last of September. 
 
 6. Columbia. — Large and handsome, roundish, purple, 
 flesh yellow, juicy and rich ; parts from the stone ; tree 
 vigorous and very productive. — September. 
 
 T. Cruger'^s Scarlet. — Medium size, roundish, reddish 
 lilac ; juicy, but not rich ; an extraordinary bearer ; 
 always requires thinning ; particularly valuable in light 
 soils ; profitable. — September. 
 
 8. Drap cfOr. — A fine golden yellow plum, somewhat 
 resembling the old green gage ; very good ; vigorous 
 shoots, a little downy. — Early. 
 
 9. Drap d^Or d'^Esperin. — A new Belgian variety, 
 resembling the Washington, and probably no better. 
 The first trees were sold at Ghent in 1848 at $10 each. 
 
 10. Diamond. — One of the largest and most produc- 
 tive of purple plums, but coarse ; only for cooking. — 
 September. 
 
PLL'MS. 337 
 
 11. Dennisoii's Red. — Large, round oval, light red, flesh 
 juicj and rich, parts from the stone. — End of August. 
 
 12. Dennison's SujMrh. — Pretty large, beautiful, round, 
 yellowish green, with purple dots ; flesh juicy, rich, and 
 parts from the stone ; tree vigorous and productive. — End 
 of August. 
 
 13. Dttane's Purple. — Yery large and handsome, oval, 
 reddish purple ; flesh juicy and sweet, adheres to the 
 stone ; tree a good grower and very productive. — Begin- 
 ning of September. 
 
 14. Emerald Drop. — Medium size, oval, yellowish 
 green ; flesh juicy and good, adheres slightly to the stone ; 
 a good grower and profuse bearer. 
 
 15. Felleriberg. — A fine late plum, oval, pur[)le ; flesh 
 juicy and delicious, parts from the stone ; flne for drying ; 
 tree very productive. — September. 
 
 16. Frost Gage. — Eather small, round, pui-ple ; an im- 
 mense bearer ; very late ; profitable for market. — October. 
 
 17. Green Gage. — Small, but of the highest excellence ; 
 tree a slow grower. — Middle of August. 
 
 18. German. Prune (Quetsche). — Large, long oval, dark 
 purple, blue, free, fine for drying, and good to eat ; grows 
 spontaneously in Germany. — September. 
 
 19. Gen. Hand. — One of the largest American varie- 
 ties, introduced by Messrs. Sinclair & Corse, Balti- 
 more. It is of a golden yellow color, sweet but not high 
 flavored. — First of September. Will be valuable for the 
 market, as it is very productive, besides being so attrac- 
 tive in size and beauty. 
 
 20. Guthrie^s Apricot. — Medium size, yellow, has the 
 flavor of the Apricot; of Scotch origin. — End September. 
 
 21. Hxilhufs Super}). — Large and handsome, round, yel- 
 lowish green ; flesh juicy, rich and fine flavored, parts 
 freely from the stone ; tree grows well and is very produc- 
 tive. — Middle of August. 
 
338 SELECT TAKIETIES OF FKUITS. 
 
 22. Icliwoi'tli Iinjperatrice. — An English late variety, pur- 
 ple, flesh juicy, sweet and rich ; may be kept into winter. 
 
 23. Iinjyerial Gage. — Large, oval, greenish ; flesh juicy, 
 rich and delicious, parts from the stone ; one of the best 
 growers, most productive, and best of plums ; profitable 
 for market. — Middle of August. 
 
 24. Ives' Seedling. — Kaised by Mr. J. M. Ives, of Salem, 
 Mass.; large, roundish, oblong, yellow, mottled with red, 
 melting and rich ; freestone. — First of September. Tree 
 a strong, rapid grower. 
 
 25. Jaune Hatwe. — A nice little yellow plum, ripening 
 last of July ; earliness is its chief quality. 
 
 26. Jefferson. — A new American variety, of the high- 
 est reputation ; yellow, with a red cheek ; flesh orange- 
 colored, juicy and rich, parts from the stone ; an excellent 
 variety, but we have never seen it suj)erior to the Impe- 
 rial Gage. — End of August. 
 
 2Y. Kirks (fi'om England). — A large, fine, violet fruit, 
 rich and sugary ; freestone. — September. Shoots stout 
 and smooth, like those of the red mag. bon. 
 
 28. LucomVs Nonsuch (English). — A large, roundish, 
 greenish plum, nearly as large and as good as the Wash- 
 ington. 
 
 29. Lawrence's Favorite. — Large, roundish, yellowish 
 green ; flesh juicy, melting, and rich, parts from the 
 stone ; tree vigorous and very productive. — Middle and 
 end of August. 
 
 30. Lombard. — Medium size, oval, violet red ; flesh 
 yellow", juicy, and pleasant ; a great bearer, and said to 
 be peculiarly well adapted to light soils. — ^End of August. 
 Profitable for market. 
 
 31. Long Scarlet., or Scarlet Gage. — Medium size, ob- 
 loug, bright red ; flesh juicy, sweet when fully ripe, 
 adheres to the stone ; tree a good grower, and a most 
 abimdant bearer. — End of August. 
 
PLUMS. 339 
 
 32. Magnum JBonum^ Yelloio. — A very large and 
 beautiful egg-shaped yellow plum ; a little coarse, but 
 excellent for cooking ; tree vigorous and very productive. 
 — End of August. Profitable. 
 
 33. Magnum Bonum^ Red.. — Large and beautiful, o^^g 
 shaped, violet red ; of second quality, valuable for cook- 
 ing ; tree vigorous and productive. — End of August. Pro- 
 fitable for market. 
 
 34. 'Mamelonne. — A curious looking, distinct fruit ; 
 round, with a neck like a j)ear, greenish, similar in qua- 
 lity and season to the green gage ; tree vigorous and j^ro- 
 ductive ; new from France. 
 
 35. Mirabelle. — A small, round, yellow plum, very 
 prolific and fine for preserving. — August and September. 
 
 36. Mirabelle cVOctohre. — A late variety recently re- 
 ceived from France ; very hardy and prolific. 
 
 37. Orange. — One of the largest varieties, oval, yellow, 
 rather coarse ; tree vigorous and very productive. — First 
 of October. Profitable for market. 
 
 38. Orleans Early. — Medium size, round, purjile ; fiesh 
 sweet and good ; tree a great bearer. — Middle of August. 
 
 39. Orleans Smithes. — A very large and excellent va- 
 riety, oval, reddish purple, with a thick coat of bloom ; 
 flesh yellow, firm, juicy, and rich ; tree vigorous and very 
 productive. — Last of August. Profitable for market. 
 
 40. Peach. — A very large and beautiful plum, round- 
 ish, dull red; flesh a little coarse ; tree very productive. — 
 End of August. 
 
 41. Prime dJ'Agen., or Robe de Sergent. — A new French 
 variety, flrst quality for drying ; tree very i^rolific ; 
 medium size, purple, sweet, and good. — September. 
 
 42. Picrple Favomte. — Medium size, brownish purple ; 
 flesh juicy, melting, and sweet ; one of the very best of 
 plums ; tree a slow grower. — Beginning of September. 
 
 43. Purple Gage (Reine Claude Tiolette).— Medium 
 
old SELPZCT VAEffiTIES OF FEUITS. 
 
 size, roundish, violet, with a blue bloom, rich, sugary, and 
 fine ; freestone ; hangs long on the tree, and shrivels in 
 ripening : shoots smooth. — September and October. 
 
 44. Jied Diaper (Diapree Rouge, French). — One of 
 the finest of all plums, brownish red, dark in the sun, 
 freestone. End of August. Hangs long on the tree. This 
 is called Mimms in England, and is difierent from the 
 Red Diaper of some. 
 
 45. Heine Claude de Bavay (Esperin). — The best new 
 foreign variety, as large as the Washington, and in flavor 
 equal to the green gage ; roundish, oval, greenish, mark- 
 ed with red in the sun ; tree vigorous and remarkably 
 productive. — Middle of September. Hangs long on the 
 tree. 
 
 46. ScTienectady Catharine. — Rather below medium 
 size, purple ; flesh melting, sweet and excellent. — Middle 
 of August. It is said to reproduce itself from seed with- 
 out variation. 
 
 4Y. St. Marthi's Quetsche (German). — Medium size, 
 oval, pale yellow, juicy and rich. — September. Hangs 
 long on the tree ; bears the most abundant crops ; fine for 
 drying ; very profitable. 
 
 48. TJiomas (of Boston). — Large, roundish, oblong, 
 amber colored, juicy and good. — September. Shoots 
 stout, a little downy, a great bearer, and very handsome. 
 
 49. Washington. — A magnificent, large plum ; round- 
 ish, green, usually marked with red ; juicy, sweet and 
 good ; tree vigorous and exceedingly productive ; one of 
 the very best. — End of August. 
 
 50. Whiter or Late Damson. — A small, dark purple 
 variety, esteemed for preserving. — October. 
 
 51. Yellow Gage. — Large, yellow, oval ; flesh yellow, 
 juicy, and rich ; tree remarkably vigorous and produc- 
 tive ; an excellent and profitable variety. — Middle of 
 August. 
 
CUEEANTS. 34:1 
 
 SMALL SELECT LISTS OF PLUMS. 
 
 For the Garden.— EoQ. IT, 23, 26, 29, 39, 42, 43, 45, 5. 
 For 3farket.—Nos. 16, 23, 32, 33, 39, 49. 
 For Drying.— Nos. 15, 18, 41, 47. 
 
 THIRD DIVISION— BERRIES. 
 CUEEANTS, GOOSEBEEEIES, EASPBEEEIES STRAWBEEEIES, BEK^ 
 
 beeeies, blackbeeeies, mulbeeeles, geapes, and figs. 
 Section 8. — Select Cueeants. 
 
 The currant is a most useful fruit, indeed indispen- 
 sable to every garden, large or small ; it fills a space of a 
 couple of weeks after the strawberries, raspberries, and 
 cherries, and before the apricots, early apples, and pears ; 
 and besides this, it possesses such a remarkable combination 
 of sweet and acid, as fits it for an almost endless variety 
 of useful and agreeable preparations, both in the green 
 and ripe state. 
 
 The white varieties are mildest flavored, and, therefore, 
 better for using in a raw state when ripe. The red are 
 preferable for jellies, etc., on account of their beautifLil 
 color. 
 
 1. Black English^ or common black, well known. 
 
 2. Bla/ik Naples. — The largest and best black currant ; 
 bears profusely ; valuable for jam and jellies ; bunches 
 short, milder flavored, and later than the preceding. 
 
 3. Cherry. — Largest of all currants, exceeding an inch 
 in circumference, bunches short, color dark red, ripens 
 same time as Eed Dutch, shoots stout, short jointed and 
 erect, foliage thick, dark green, slightly folded, and 
 bhmtlv and coarse! v sciTated. 
 
343 SELECT VARIETIES OF FEUITS. 
 
 4. Red Dutch, — A well known variety, bunches three 
 inches long or more ; fine. 
 
 5. Red KnigMs Sweet. — Similar to the preceding, but 
 of rather a milder acid. 
 
 6. Victoria or HougJiton Castle. — Yery large, bright 
 red, bunches five or six inches long ; hangs on the bushes 
 after others are gone ; distinguished at once bj its re- 
 markably long bunches, and bright red color, and by the 
 foliage, which is quite distinct, dark green, coarsely and 
 bluntly serrated, quite flat, and frequently reflexed or 
 turned backwards at the edges ; the shoots are not so stout 
 and erect as those of the cherry. 
 
 7. ^¥ll^te Dutch. — Yellowish white, trans23arent, milder 
 than the red, and better for using raw ; excellent. 
 
 8. White Grape. — Larger every way than the preced- 
 ing ; the largest white currant ; growth rather spreading, 
 foliage thicker, deeper green, and more reflexed. 
 
 9. Missouri Yellow Floivering. — Fine yellow, fragrant 
 flowers, and sweet fruit of a violet blue. 
 
 10. Missouri Large Fruited.— L^y^q^ blue, sweet fruit, 
 very pleasant. 
 
 The two last are seldom cultivated for the fruit. 
 
 11. Long Bundled Red Dutch (Grosse Eouge de Hol- 
 land). — ^This is a variety we received lately from France, 
 and it promises to be valuable. There are several sorts 
 under cultivation, more or less unworthy of notice, unless 
 to those who are making large collections. 
 
 Section 9. — Goosebeeeies. 
 
 The following, from the large English sorts, have all 
 proved excellent. 
 
 1. Red. — Albion, Crov/nbob, Echo, Houghton's Bog- 
 gart, Ironmonger, Lancashire Red, Prince Regent, Roar- 
 
EASPBERKIES. 843 
 
 ing Lion, Shakspeare, Sj)ortsman, Top Sawyer, Wiiic- 
 beny, Young's Wonderful. 
 
 2. White.— Chorhter, Fleur cle Lis, Leigh's Toper, 
 Queen Caroline, Smiling Beauty, Whitesmith, Welling- 
 ton's Glory, White Muslin, etc. 
 
 3. Green. — Berrier's Greenwood, Chipendale's Con- 
 quering Hero, Green Mountain, Green Yale, Green Wil- 
 low, Green Ocean, Lidej^endent, Jolly Cutler, Massey's 
 Heart of Oak, Profit. 
 
 4. Yellow. — Bunker Hill, Capper's Early Sulphur, Gol- 
 den Drop, Husbandman, etc. 
 
 5. Houghtoii's Seedling. — Kaised in Massachusetts from 
 the seed of a native variety ; it is small and rather indif- 
 ferent in flavor, but is not subject to the mildew, and 
 bears most abundantly, small, oval, dull brownish red. 
 
 The following sorts were recommended by the Pomo- 
 loo:ical Cono^ress : Hous^hton's Seedlins:, Whitesmith, 
 Crownbob, Ped Chamj^agne, Warrington, Laurel, L'on- 
 monger. Early Sulphur, Green Gage, Green Walnut. 
 
 Section 10. — Select Paspberkies. 
 
 1. Antwerp^ Bed. — This is an excellent variety, and 
 very popular in market ; three quarters of an acre of land 
 on the Hudson, planted with it, have yielded $330 ; and 
 three acres in the same locality, $1,500 in one season. 
 The berry is large, conical, dark red, rich and juicy ; canes 
 have a few small, purple spines. 
 
 2. Antwerp^ Yelloio or White. — Emit large, pale yel- 
 low, sweet and rich ; a beautiful and excellent fruit, but 
 not so firm and so well adapted to marketing as the pre- 
 ceding; canes thickly covered with greenish spines. 
 
 3. Fastolff. — Fruit larger and rounder than the Ped 
 Antwerp, but rather softer ; of a purplish red, canes more 
 spiny ; very hardy and productive. 
 
344 SELECT YABIETIES OF FEUITS. 
 
 4. Franco7iia. — Fruit very large, of a purplish red, ra- 
 ther darker than the Bed Antwerp or Fastolfl*; canes very 
 strong, with a few short purple spines, and thicker, firmer 
 and smoother, or less crimped or wrinkled leaves than 
 any of the others. 
 
 5. Knevetfs Giant. — This is an English variety of the 
 Red Antwerp, from which it differs only in being some- 
 what hardier. 
 
 The " Col. Wilder'^^ and " OusJihuf are two seedling 
 varieties produced by Dr. Brinkle, of Philadelphia, that 
 give promise of superiority, the first especially, which is 
 described as a beautiful " cream-colored" fruit and very 
 hardy. 
 
 The American Red, White and Black are well known. 
 
 6. Large Fruited Monthly (New). — Large red, bears 
 in favorable weather from August to IS^ovember ; canes 
 long, rather slender, purplish in the sun, and pretty thickly 
 covered with dark purple spines ; cpiite different from the 
 " Ohio Everbearing," a worthless variety. 
 
 We saw fruit on this in January, in Mr. Rivers' nur- 
 sery, in 1848. If the autumn be dry, the plant should be 
 watered occasionally ; and to ensure a good autumn crop, 
 the canes should be pruned in spring to within a foot of 
 the ground. 
 
 Section 11. — Select Strawbeeeies. 
 
 Those strongly pistillate or deficient in stamens are 
 marked (p). 
 
 1. Alpine.^ Red Monthly. — Small, high-flavored variety, 
 and higli y^ij^aluable in all collections, on account of bear- 
 ing a long time. 
 
 2. Alpine., White Monthly. — As above, except color. 
 
 3. Alpine^ Red Bush. — These have no runners, like 
 
STKAWBERRIES. 345 
 
 other varieties, and are well adapted to edging walks in 
 the kitchen garden. They are small, but of delicious 
 flavor, and continue bearing till autumn. 
 
 4. Alpi?ie, White Bush. — Same as above, but in color. 
 
 5. British Queen (Myatt's).— The most magnificent in 
 appearance of all strawberries, often measuring six or 
 seven inches in circumference ; but it is a shy bearer and 
 rather tender ; plant very luxuriant. 
 
 6. Bishop's Orange. — Rather large, light orange scarlet, 
 productive and fine flavored (p). 
 
 7. Boston Pine. — Large light red, good, hardy and ex- 
 ceedingly productive ; with plenty of room and good cul- 
 ture the yield is very great. 
 
 8. Bur^'^s Seedling. — A very prolific medium sized va- 
 riety ; hardy and of fair quality ; from Ohio. 
 
 9. Burros New Pine. — Large, light orange, scarlet; 
 of the highest and most delicious flavor uniformly ; plant 
 hardy and productive ; one of the very best sorts (p). 
 Ohio. 
 
 10. Burr'^s Rival Hudson. — Medium size, dark red, 
 rather acid; valuable for marketing and preserving; 
 hardy and productive (p). Ohio. 
 
 11. Burr'^s Columbus. — Large, hardy and productive; 
 flavor medium (p). Ohio. 
 
 12. Burr'^s Scarlet Melting. — A very pretty light scar- 
 let fruit, and a most profuse bearer, but very tender ; not 
 fit for marketing. 
 
 13. Black Prince. — A large and beautiful fruit, of a 
 dark blackish crimson color ; variable in quality ; some 
 seasons first rate, others insipid ; hardy and productive (p). 
 
 14. Climax Scarlet. — Medium size, conical, slightly 
 necked, light scarlet, rather acid ; bears immense crops (p). 
 
 15. Duke of Kent. — Small, with a long neck ; very pro- 
 lific and valuable for its earliness in a large collection. 
 
 16. Genesee.— L^iVgQ^ roundish, dark crimson, good 5 
 
 15^ 
 
34:6 SELECT VAEIETIES OF FEUITS. 
 
 plant very luxuriant ; fruit stalks very stout, supporting the 
 fruit well ; most profuse bearer, rather late. 
 
 17. Hudson. — Medium size, scarlet, firm, acid ; very 
 productive, and esteemed for marketing; grown much 
 around Cincinnati (p). 
 
 18. Hovey^s Seedling. — A well-known magnificent berry ; 
 plant hardy and luxuriant; bears large crops in some 
 places and seasons (p). 
 
 19. Jenny's Seedling — Yery large, roundish, dark 
 scarlet, flavor medium, plant vigorous, and a moderate 
 bearer (p). 
 
 20. Large Early Scarlet. — An excellent standard soi^, 
 light scarlet, rather acid; bears uniformly great crops; 
 early. 
 
 21. Monroe Scarlet. — Large, roundish, light scarlet, 
 good; very prolific; over 100 perfect berries have been 
 gathered at once from a single plant (p). 
 
 22. Orange Prolific. — Large, orange scarlet ; rather 
 acid, but a great bearer and quite late. 
 
 23. Princess Alice Maud. — A very large and handsome 
 English variety ; very productive, but of indifferent flavor. 
 
 24. Prolific Hautbois. — -A large, purplish, conical fruit, 
 with a peculiar musky flavor, very productive ; plant 
 grows tall and luxuriant, with peculiar crimped foliage, and 
 has very large, showy blossoms ; a distinct species ; late. 
 
 25. Swainstone'' s Seedling. — A very large and beautiful 
 fruit, of the most delicious flavor; color light shining 
 scarlet, ripens gradually ; a poor bearer ; English. 
 
 26. Scotch Pine Ap^le^ or Crimson Cone. — One of the 
 most beautiful varieties in appearance ; medium size, uni- 
 form, regularly conical, rich dark crimson ; seeds deeply 
 imbedded, giving the surface a rasp-like appearance; 
 rather acid but good, and very productive. 
 
 Nos. 7, 9, 18 and 20 are the best for general cultivation; 
 for a larger collection, E"os. 5, 17 and 25, besides the 
 
BLxiCKBEERIES. 317 
 
 alpines, may be added ; i^os. 14, 16, 21, 22 are new seed- 
 lings j)rodueed here that promise well. 
 
 The w^ood and alpines should be renewed from seed 
 frequently. 
 
 Section 12. — Bekbereies. 
 epin.-yinette of the frexch. 
 
 CoTYitnon lied. — This is everywhere well known : 2:rown 
 not only for the fruit, which is used for preserves, jellies and 
 pickles, but for ornament. The bright scarlet oval fruit is 
 borne in rich clusters, and hang on till late in the autumn. 
 
 Sioeet-Fruited (Berberis dulcis). — ^The fruit of this is 
 much less acid than the common. The plant is not so 
 vigorous. 
 
 Besides these, there are several species and varieties 
 cultivated chiefly for ornament : The Wliite-fTuited^ The 
 Yiolet-fruited^ The Yariegated-leaved^ foliage marked 
 with yellow ; The Purple-leamd^ the most unique and 
 ornamental of all, with beautiful violet-purple foliage. 
 
 They are all easily propagated by layers or suckers, and 
 the rare sorts by grafting. 
 
 Section 13. — Blackberries. 
 
 The Imp7vved High Bush. — ^This Blackberry is begin- 
 ning to receive considerable attention. The Massachu- 
 setts Horticultural Society has offered large premiums to 
 encourage its culture, and the result already has been 
 great improvement. Ca])t. Lovett, of Beverly, has pre- 
 sent specimens an inch and a half long. It bids fair to 
 become a valuable and popular fruit. The berry is long, 
 egg-shaped, shining black, juicy, and rich, the plant erect. 
 
348 SELECT VARIETIES OF FKUITS. 
 
 blossoms white, ripens at a most timely season, after tlio 
 Raspberry. 
 
 Section 14. — Mulbeekies. 
 
 Black. — ^This is a native of Persia, and is really the 
 only one valuable for its fruit. The berry is an inch and 
 a half long, and nearly an inch in diameter, black, suc- 
 culent, sugary and rich. The tree is highly ornamental, 
 very erect, with a large spreading head. The leaves 
 appear late in spring, are large, heart-shaped, sometimes 
 lobed, deep green, and form a dense shade. 
 
 Section 15. — Geapes. 
 select haeuy geapes. 
 
 1. Catawba. — ^This is the best flavored of all native 
 grapes that ripen as far north as lat. 43 deg., and is con- 
 sidered the best yet discovered for making wine. Bunches 
 large ; berries large, red, becoming a coppery color when 
 ripe ; juicy, sweet, and musky ; hardy, and very pro- 
 ductive. 
 
 2. Clinton. — A very hardy, native variety, resembling 
 in foliage the common Fox Grape. Bunches small and 
 very compact ; berries rather small, black, juicy, inferior 
 in flavor to the preceding. It ripens here two or three 
 weeks before the Isabella or Catawba, and this is its chief 
 value ; very productive. 
 
 3. Diana. — Tliis is a variety that originated near Boston, 
 similar to the Catawba ; not quite so large, but earlier and 
 better adapted to the north. 
 
 4. Isabella. — This is the most popular variety. It ripens 
 well in almost every part of the country, and bears 
 in.mense crops under the most ordinary management. 
 
GEAPES. 349 
 
 Bunches long and large ; berries large, oval, black, juicy, 
 sweet, slightly musky. 
 
 SELECT FOKEIGN GRAPES. 
 
 1. Black Cluster. — Small, roundish oval, black, sweet 
 and good ; bunches small, very compact ; one of the 
 hardiest and best for open air culture ; early. 
 
 2. Black Prmce. — Large, oval, black ; bunches long, 
 rather open ; sweet and fine ; a profuse bearer. 
 
 3. Black Frontignan. — Berries medium size, round, 
 black, bunches long ; flavor rich and musky ; prolific. 
 
 4. Black Hamburg. — A fine grape, and a general 
 favorite for the vinery ; bunches are large, very much 
 shouldered — tliat is, branched ; berries large, deep black, 
 sweet and rich. 
 
 5. Chctsselas cle Fontainhleau. — This is esteemed the 
 finest table grape in France, and succeeds admirably here 
 in vineries, and occasionally in the open air. Bunches 
 large, somewhat shouldered ; berries large, round, greenish 
 white, becoming slightly colored or reddened in the sun ; 
 canes stout, of a yellowish color ; leaves large and shining ; 
 very productive. The Golden Chasselas is very similar 
 to, if not identical with this. 
 
 6. Grizzly Frontignan. — This is one of the most deli- 
 cious grapes when grown in the vinery, and very beau- 
 tiful too. Bunches long, slightly shouldered ; berries 
 medium size, round, colored red and violet-purple in the 
 sun ; rich, musky flavor. 
 
 7. White Frontignan (Muscat Blanc of the French). — 
 One of the oldest varieties ; bunches pretty large ; berries 
 roundish, changing from green to amber as they ripen in 
 the sun ; rich and quite musky ; later than the preceding. 
 
 8. White Muscat of Alexandria. — ^This is a most deli- 
 cious variety, considered the same as the imported 
 
350 SELECT VARIETIES OF FKUITS. 
 
 " Malaga." Bunches large, branched and loose ; berries 
 large, oval, white, becoming amber; firm and rich, with 
 a high musky flavor ; growth vigorous ; leaves shining 
 and deeply lobed. 
 
 9. White Sweetwater. — ^This and the Black Clustei- are 
 the most common foreign varieties in this country. 
 Bunches of good size, open; berries of medium size, 
 round, green, becoming slightly colored in the sun ; sweet 
 and watery ; occasionally produced in tolerable perfection 
 in the open air. 
 
 The Pomological Congress at 'New York, in 1849, 
 recommend for culture under glass, Nos. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 
 
 Section 16. — Figs. 
 
 Yery little is known here from ex]3erience of the par- 
 ticular qualities of the different kinds of figs. Several 
 varieties have been tested, and are grown successfully in 
 the Boston graperies. The varieties most desirable for 
 out-door culture for their hardiness are : 
 
 The Brmvn Turl^ey. — Large, oblong, pear-shaped ; skin 
 dark, brownish purple ; flesh red, leaves large. 
 
 Black Ischia. — Medium size, roundish, dark violet, 
 nearly black ; flesh deep red, sweet and fine. This is one 
 of the most productive varieties. 
 
 Violette de Bordeaux (Figue poire de. Bordeaux. — 
 Large, long, pear-shaped, brownish red ; flesh reddish, 
 medium quality ; extensively cultivated about Paris for 
 its productiveness and hardiness. 
 
 White Marseilles. — Small, roundish, nearly white ; flesh 
 white ; not quite so hardy as the preceding sorts, but 
 very productive ; one of the most abundant in the Paris 
 markets. 
 
 Upwards of forty varieties are described in the London 
 
CHESTNUTS. Col 
 
 Horticultural Society's catalogue ; fifteen are described in 
 Downing's Fruit and Fruit Trees. 
 
 FOURTH DIVISION.— ALMONDS, CHESTNUTS, FILBERTS, AND 
 WALNUTS. 
 
 Section IT. — Almonds. 
 
 1. Sweet Hard Shell. — This is a hardy and productive 
 variety, succeeding well in the climate of Western 'New 
 York, and still farther north. Nut very large, with a hard 
 shell and a large sweet kernel ; ripe here about the first 
 of October. 
 
 The tree is very vigorous, has smooth glaucous leaves, 
 and when in bloom in the spring, is more brilliant and 
 showy than any other fruit tree. 
 
 2. Soft Sweet Shell, Ladies' Thin Shell, etc.—ToA^ is 
 the almond of the shops, of which such immense quan- 
 tities are annually imported from abroad. It and all its 
 sub-varieties, as far as we know, are too tender for our 
 northern climate, unless carefully grown on a wall or 
 trellis, and pi'otected. South of Virginia, we believe, it 
 succeeds well ; and so beautiful a tree, and so estimable 
 a fruit, deserve the attention of all fruit growers. 
 
 3. The Bitter AI?7io?kI. - "Tlim is hardy and jDroductive ; 
 nut similar to No. 1 in appearance, but bitter, and only 
 useful in confectionery or medicine. Its chief product i3 
 the prussic acid of the druggists. 
 
 Section 18. — Chestnuts. 
 
 The American or Common Chestnut is well known 
 as one of our most beautiful forest trees. It is seldom 
 grown as a fruit tree, although the fruit is highly es- 
 teeme \ 
 
352 SELECT VARIETIES OF FETJITS. 
 
 It should have a place in all large collections of stand- 
 ard fruit trees. It reproduces itself from seed. 
 
 The Dwarf Chestnut or Chinqucipin^ is a small tree 
 eight or ten feet high, and very prolific, but the nuts are 
 small. It grows sj^ontaneously in Maryland, Yirginia, 
 and southward. 
 
 The Spanish Chestnut or Marron. — This is the large, 
 sweet nut, as large as a horse chestnut, imported from 
 abroad. There are many varieties cultivated in France 
 and England, but that designated by the French as 
 '' Marron de Lyon^^ is the best. It is propagated by 
 grafting on the common sorts. It is not reproduced truly 
 from seed, but its seedlings produce large and fine fruits. 
 It bears and ripens well as far north as Rochester. It 
 bears the second year from the graft and the fourth from 
 seed. 
 
 Section 19. — Filbeets. 
 
 1. Cosford. — ^This is an improved variety of the Eng- 
 lish hazel-nut, very prolific, nut large, oblong or oval, 
 shell thin, and kernel fine flavored. 
 
 2. Coburg. — Large and fine, and a most abundant 
 bearer. 
 
 3. Dwarf Prolific. — One of the most prolific bearers, 
 nut rather small. We have plants two feet high bear- 
 ing well, kernel good. 
 
 4. Frizzled. — Remarkable for its curious frizzled husk, 
 a good bearer, and one of the finest flavored. 
 
 5. Hed Shhmed. — One of the old standard sorts of the 
 English growers, distinguished by the bright red or crim- 
 son skin of the kernel, medium size, egg-shaped, shell 
 thick, flavor good. 
 
 6. White. — This is also an old standard sort, the kernel 
 is a yellowish white. Both this and the preceding have 
 lono^ husks. 
 
WALNUTS. 353 
 
 Section 20. — Walnuts. 
 
 The English or Madeira N%d (Jiiglans Regia). — This is 
 a native of Persia. A lofty spreading tree witli j^innated 
 leaves like the butternut, and the fruit nearly as large. 
 Great quantities are annually imported, and sold in the 
 fruit shops. 
 
 Tlie tree is tender while young, the ends of the young 
 shoots being injured in winter at the north, but as it 
 grows older it becomes hardier. It is produced from 
 seed or by grafting. There are many varieties of it cul- 
 tivated abroad, few of which have yet been introduced 
 here on account of the little attention given to this class 
 of fruits. 
 
 The Dioarf ProliJiG Walmtt (Juglans Prseparturiens), 
 is a French variety recently introduced, which will pro- 
 bably become the most desirable for the garden. It bears 
 at the age of three years from the seed, and often at the 
 height of two to three feet. We have now two imported 
 trees, four feet high, that give promise of an abundant 
 crop. The kernel is said to be very good. 
 
 Our native sorts, the Black Walnut (Juglans Nigra), 
 the Butternut (Juglans Cinerea), the Hickory Nut (Carya), 
 and its varieties, are all well known trees that deserve 
 much more attention than they receive, considering the 
 value of their timber as well as fruit. 
 
CHAPTEK II. 
 
 GATHERING, PACKIT^TG, TKANSPOETATIOIT AND PRE- 
 SERVATION OF FRUITS. 
 
 This is a brancli of the general subject of fruit culture 
 and management that requires the most careful attention ; 
 for it is quite useless to take pains in producing fine fruits, 
 without taking equal pains in gathering, preserv^ing, and 
 sending them to the table or the market in a sound, 
 sightly, and proper condition. Yerj few fruit growers 
 seem to appreciate this part of their business. Fruit 
 dealers at home and abroad complain of the careless and 
 slovenly manner in which our fruits are gathered, packed, 
 and presented in the market, and would gladly pay a dou- 
 ble price for them in a better condition. The first con- 
 sideration is — 
 
 The period of maturity at loliich fruits should he 
 gathered. — The stone fruits generally are allowed to reach 
 perfect maturity, or within four or five days of it, on the 
 tree. 
 
 In moist, cool seasons particularly, they are benefited 
 by being gathered a few days before maturity, and allow- 
 ed to ripen in a dry, warm room ; they part with the 
 water contained in their juices, which thus become better 
 elaborated and more sugary and high flavored. 
 
 Summer Pears^ too, on the same principle, require to 
 be gathered, as a general thing, from a week to a fort- 
 night before their maturity. Sweet varieties, and sucli as 
 
GATHEKING FEriTS, ETC. daO 
 
 are inclined to become mealy ^ are entirely worthless wlien 
 ripened on the tree, and many very excellent varieties 
 are condemned on this acconnt. Snch as these should be 
 gathered the moment the skin begins to change color in 
 least degree. 
 
 SumDiCt' Apples^ too, and especially those inclined to 
 viealiness^ shoidd be picked early ; as soon as the skin 
 begins to change color, otherwise they part with their 
 juices, and become worthless. Ripeness is indicated by 
 the seeds turning dark colored, and by the stem parting 
 readily from the tree when it is lifted upwards. 
 
 Winter Ajyples and Pears should be allowed to remain 
 on the trees as long as vegetation is active, or until frosts 
 are apprehended. 
 
 Grapes^ Berries^ <&c.^ are allowed to attain perfect 
 maturity before being gathered. 
 
 Chestnuts^ Filherts^ <&c.^ are not gathered until they 
 begin to fall from the tree. 
 
 Mode of Gathering. — Unless it be a few specimens 
 wanted for immediate use, which may be taken with some 
 of the contrivances mentioned under the head of imple- 
 ments, all fruits should be gathered by the hand. The 
 branch to be gathered from should be taken in one hand, 
 and the fruits carefully taken off, one by one, with the other, 
 with their stems attached. (For fruits neither keep so well, 
 nor look so well, without the stems.) They are then laid 
 carefully in single layers in broad shallow baskets, the bot- 
 toms of which should be covered with paper or moss, to 
 prevent bruises. Peaches and other soft fruits should be 
 pressed as lightly as possible, for anything like a squeeze 
 is certainly followed by decay in the form of a brown 
 spot, and this is the reason why it is so exceedingly diffi- 
 cult to find a perfectly souiid and at the same time ri2?e 
 peach in our markets. 
 
 When more than one layer of fruit is laid in the same 
 
S56 GATIIEEING FEUITS, ETC. 
 
 basket, some soft paper, dry moss, liay, or other material, 
 ought to separate them, for it is difficult to place one layer 
 immediately upon another, and especially if the fruits are 
 approaching maturity, without bruising them more or less. 
 Fruit should only be gathered in dry weather, and in the 
 dry time of the day. 
 
 Disposition of the Fruits after gathering. — When they 
 are thus in the baskets, if summer fruits, they are either 
 carried into the fruit room and arranged on shelves or 
 tables in thin layers, or they are carefully transferred one 
 by one into market baskets and carried to market on an 
 easy spring w^agon, if not by steamboat or railroad, by 
 which jarring or jolting will be avoided. Treated in this 
 manner, they will be in a marketable condition, and one 
 basket will sell for as much as four, carelessly picked, 
 thrown into baskets, and tumbled out of them into a barrel 
 or wagon-box. 
 
 Eipe fruits may be kept in good condition for a consi- 
 derable period of time, in an ice-house, or in some of the 
 recently-invented fruit preservers, and even in very cool 
 dry cellars. The vessels in which they are deposited, 
 should be perfectly clean, that no unpleasant flavor may 
 be imparted to them. Peaches have been sent to the East 
 Indies, by being properly packed in ice ; and it may be 
 that methods of packing and preserving will, before long, 
 be discovered, that will give us access to the markets of 
 other countries, even for our perishable summer fruits. 
 We have seen Seckel pears in a very good state of preser- 
 vation in January, exhibited in the horticultural society's 
 rooms in Boston. The science of ripening and preserving 
 fruits is but in its infancy, and horticultural societies 
 that have the means will be doing a great public service 
 by offering liberal premiums that will incite to experiment 
 on the subject. 
 
 Winter Fruits intended for long keeping are transferred 
 
ETC. 357 
 
 by hand from the baskets in which they are gathered on 
 the tree, into larger ones in which they can be carried into 
 a dry cool room, where they are laid in heaps, which may 
 be three or four deep, where they may remain for a couple 
 of weeks, during which time they will have parted with 
 considerable moisture and be quite dry. They will then 
 be fit for packing. 
 
 Clean, new barrels should be procured, and the fruits 
 should be carefully assorted. For shipping to distant or 
 foreign markets, tlie hest only should be selected; all 
 bruised, wormy, knotty specimens being laid aside for 
 home consumption. They are then placed in the barrels, 
 by hand, arranged regularly in layers, so that no spaces 
 will exist, by which the fruits may shift, roll, or knock 
 against one another. The barrels are then tightly headed 
 up, so that the head presses firmly on the fruits ; some 
 people recommend placing a layer of clean moss or soft 
 paper, both on the bottom and top of the barrel ; but this 
 is not necessary where the packing and heading are per- 
 formed carefully. After packing, the barrels must be 
 sent to market in such a manner as never to be jolted or 
 rolled, any more than they would be on men's shoulders, 
 or an easy spring wagon or sled, or by a water convey- 
 ance. 
 
 On shipboard the barrels should be placed in the coolest 
 and dryest place. It is perfectly idle to gather, pack or 
 ship fruits in any other way than this to foreign markets. 
 American apples are frequently sold in Liverpool at auction 
 for half what they would have sold for in ISTew York, on 
 account of their bad condition. I saw this in 1849, when 
 Newtown pippins were selling at twelve and a half cents 
 a-piece in the fruit shops. 
 
 Winter fruits for home consiirwption should be care- 
 fully assorted, keeping the best, the poorest, the sound, 
 the bruised^ and the earlier and later ripening varieties 
 
358 GATHERING FKUITS, ETC. 
 
 all separate ; when sound and bruised, early and late, are 
 all thrown together promiscuously, they cannot fail to 
 decay speedily and to lose their flavor ; for two or three 
 decaying apples in a heap or barrel will taint the flavor 
 of all, and hasten the decay of those around them. This 
 arrangement into grades and classes is, therefore, absolute- 
 ly necessary even for the fruits needed for family use ; and 
 when they are so arranged, the sound, long keepers are put 
 into clean, new barrels, carefully by hand, and the barrels 
 headed up tightly and placed in a cool dry cellar or fruit 
 room. The bruised ones can be laid in a place by them- 
 selves for immediate use. Every barrel, when packed, 
 should be marked. 
 
 Winter Pears, as a general thing, require to be brought 
 into a warm temperature one or two weeks before they 
 are wanted for table use. All the baking and stewing, 
 and even many of the table varieties, may be treated 
 exactly like apples. 
 
 Packing Pears for distant markets. — The French send 
 away more pears to foreign markets than any other peo- 
 ple. Some small importations of their winter sorts have 
 actually been made by some of the I^ew York fruit 
 dealers the present winter, 1850-51. They pack them in 
 small boxes, either round or square, such as a man can 
 lift and carry easily in his hands. 
 
 They cover the bottom and sides with very dry moss 
 or soft dry paper, well calculated to absorb moisture. 
 They then wrap each fruit in the dry, soft paper, and lay 
 them in layers, the largest and least mature in the bottom, 
 and fill all the interstices with dry moss or paper. I have 
 seen these boxes opened in London, in the finest con- 
 dition, after being a month packed. They are so tightly 
 packed that the slightest movement cannot take place 
 among them, and yet no one pr;j.-scs upon another. The 
 
PEESEEVATION OF FEUTTS. 350 
 
 dry moss and paper that separate them, absorb any mois- 
 ture ; and if one decays it does not affect others. 
 
 Some of the Paris confectioners and restaurant keepers 
 preserve fruits very successfully in barrels, packed in lay- 
 ers, and the interstices filled up with powdered charcoal. 
 The barrels are kept in a dry, cool place, about forty 
 degrees, where they are not subjected to changes of tem- 
 perature. Apples, pears, grapes, almonds, nuts, and pota- 
 toes, are all preserved in this manner. 
 
 Fruit Itooms. — A fruit room is a structure set apart 
 exclusively for the preservation of fruit. Its great requi- 
 sites are, perfect security from moisture or dampness, ex- 
 clusion from light, and a uniform temperature. If these 
 points are obtained, no matter where, how, or of what 
 material the fruit room be constructed. It may be built 
 of stone, brick, clay, or wood, above or below ground, as 
 circumstances or taste may dictate. 
 
 A good, dry, and cool cellar, is as good a place for 
 keeping fruit in as can be ]3rovided ; but the great objec- 
 tion to cellars used for other purposes is, that currents of 
 air are frequently admitted, and too much light, by which 
 the temperature is changed, decay promoted, or the fruits 
 dried and shrivelled. There are, also, other objects that 
 unavoidably saturate the air more or less with moisture. 
 
 Where a fruit room is built on the surface of the ground, 
 it should be on the ice-house principle of double walls and 
 doors, to prevent access of either heat or cold from with- 
 out. A good cellar or cave, built in a dry, sandy, or 
 gravelly bank, or side hill, will answer every purj^ose. 
 The walls may be of stone, brick, or timber ; the roof should 
 be thick, with a slope sufficient to throw off water freely, 
 and the earth about should also be so graded that water 
 will flow away as fast as it falls. Provision may be 
 made for lighting and ventilating in the roof, and the 
 door or doors should be double. 
 
360 PRESERVATION OF FRUITS. 
 
 The interior should be fitted up with shelves and binns, 
 with places for barrels or other articles, in which fruits 
 are packed. 
 
 Attention to fndts in the cellar or fruit room. — The 
 decay of fruits is caused either by bruises or by a fungus, 
 or species of mildew, that increases rapidly and attacks 
 all the sound fruits within its reach. It is, therefore, 
 necessary to examine fruits frequently, and remove all 
 that show any symptoms of decay, before they have 
 either affected others or tainted the atmosphere of the 
 room. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 DISEASES AI^^D INSECTS. 
 
 Section 1. — Diseases. 
 
 1. The Fire Blight of the Pear^ Ajpjple^ and Quince. — 
 This is one of the most formidable diseases to which fruit 
 trees are liable. "Whether it is caused by the sun, the 
 atmosphere, or an insect, remains in doubt, some cases 
 favoring one opinion, some another. It attacks the trees 
 at different j)eriods of the growing season, from June to 
 September, and generally in the young parts first ; the 
 leaves flag, the sap becomes thick and brown, oozing out 
 in globules through the bark, and emitting a very dis- 
 agreeable odor, and the diseased branch or part turns 
 black, as if it were burned by fire. When the pear tree 
 is attacked it is difiicult to save it, the disease spreads so 
 rapidly. In the apple and quince it is less fatal, rarely 
 killing more than a portion of the tree even if left to its 
 own course. The only remedy is, to cut away instantly 
 the blighted parts, into the sound wood, where there is 
 not the slightest trace of the disease, and burn them up 
 immediately. 
 
 It is thought by some that young trees growing very 
 rapidly are more subject to it than older trees growing 
 slowly ; and that warm sunshine, with a sultry atmosphere 
 after rain, is apt to be followed by much blight. We 
 have always regarded the cases favoring such an opinion 
 as accidental. 
 
 16 
 
6b-2 DISEASES AND INSECTS. 
 
 2. I^ear leaf Bligld. — ^This disease has already been 
 alluded to in treating of j)ear seedlings. It is a sort of 
 rust that appears on the leaves in July or August, first as 
 small brown spots ; these spread rapidly over the leaves 
 until they are completely dried up and growth stopped. 
 It appears in a certain spot as a centre, from which it 
 spreads. Whether it be an insect, a fungus, or some 
 atmospherical cause that produces th!s blight, is unknown. 
 Certain cases favor one or other of these opinions. More 
 minute investigations are wanted on the subject. 
 
 To avoid its evil effects as far as possible, the great 
 point is, to get a rapid, vigorous growth, before midsum- 
 mer, when it usually appears. Seedlings grown in new 
 soils do not appear to be so much aifected as in old. 
 "Where stocks are affected very early in the season, they 
 become almost worthless, on account of the feebleness 
 produced in both stem and roots by such an untimely and 
 unnatural check. Some special applications, such as coal 
 cinders, iron filings, copperas, etc., have been suggested, 
 but no evidence has yet been produced of their efficacy. 
 
 3. Tlie Gum in stone fricits. — ^The cherry, plum, apricot, 
 and peach, are all more or less subject to this malady. 
 The cherry is particularly liable to it in the West. It is 
 produced by different causes, such as a wet soil, severe 
 pruning, pruning at an improper time, violet changes of 
 temperature, etc. The gumming of the cherry in the 
 West, is considered by some to be owing in a great mea- 
 sure to the bark not yielding naturally to the growth of 
 the vrood, and hence they practise longitudinal incisions 
 on it. The cherry tree has a very powerful bark, and in 
 some cases it may not yield naturally to the expansion or 
 growth of the wood. We have seen about a foot of the 
 trunk of a cherry tree, several inches smaller than the 
 parts both above and below it. The bark was 
 as smooth as glass ou it, the first rind being unbroken, 
 
DISEASES. 363 
 
 whilst on the large parts this was quite rough. This was 
 a case arising from the obstinacy of the bark, and could 
 only be remedied by longitudinal incisions on the small 
 part. 
 
 It is most probable that the extent and severity of this dis- 
 ease in the West is owino; to violent chan2:es from a hard frost 
 to a bright sun and rapid thaw, by which the sap becomes 
 deranged, and accumulates in masses. Trees that are 
 branched near the ground, will be less likely to suffer 
 than those with tall bare trunks. Where it has made 
 some progress in any tree, the only remedy is to pare off 
 the diseased bark, clean off all the gum, and let the sur- 
 face dry up ; then apply a plaster of grafting compo- 
 sition, or a solution of gum shellac in alcohol, put on 
 wdth a brush, as recommended by Mr. Downing. 
 
 When the stone fruits are pruned severely in the sj)ring, 
 the sap does not find sufficient vent; it accumulates in 
 masses and bursts the bark. This fact should always be 
 kept in view in pruning, and a sufiicient supply of active 
 buds be left to absorb the sap. 
 
 4. Hie Yelloivs in the Feach.—Thi^ is supposed to 
 arise from negligent cultivation. It exhibits itself in a 
 yellow, sickly foliage, feeble shoots, and small fruits pre- 
 maturely ripened. It is said to be contagious. Trees 
 exhibiting these symptoms should instantly be destroyed. 
 To avoid it, care should be taken to propagate from trees 
 in perfect health and vigor. 
 
 5. Mildew on the Peach. — The young shoots, leaves, 
 and even the fruit of certain varieties, and especially the 
 glandless ones, such as Early A?ine, Early TiUotson^ etc., 
 are attacked by this. The only remedies are, to give the 
 trees a dry, good soil, that wdll keep them in a vigorous 
 condition, and to syringe freely twice a day w^hen it begins 
 to appear. The gooseberry suffers seriously from the mil- 
 dew, owdng mainly to the heat of our summers. In 
 
864: DISEASES AND INSECTS. 
 
 Northern ISTew York, in Maine, Vermont, and Lower 
 Canada, the finest large English varieties are brought to 
 greater perfection than in warmer districts, and with good 
 culture almost come up to the English standard. In a 
 cold, damp-bottomed soil at Toronto, almost on a level 
 with Lake Ontario, fine crops are produced with compara- 
 tively little difficulty from mildew or rust. This would 
 indicate as a remedy, a cool soil and situation, and mulch- 
 ing the roots to keep them cool. The plants should be 
 renewed every three or four years, and they should be 
 kept vigorous by liberal manuring and good culture. 
 
 6. The Plum Wart 07' Black Knot. — The cause of this 
 disease is quite uncertain, but the probability is that it 
 originates in a similar way to the gum, from an imperfect 
 circulation of the sap, induced by violent changes of tem- 
 j^erature.'^ Cutting out the diseased branch clean to the 
 sound wood, the moment the knots begin to appear, is an 
 efiectual remedy, and they should all be burnt up. We 
 have saved trees six inches in diameter, that were affected 
 on the trunk so seriously, that one third of its thickness 
 had to be removed to get below the disease. After it was 
 cut out, we applied a j^laster of grafting composition, 
 covered it with a cloth, and in two years it was all healed 
 over and sound. 
 
 Plum trees are so neglected in the country, that multi- 
 tudes of them are now standing literally loaded with these 
 warts — not even an inch of any branch free from them — 
 the most disgusting objects in the way of fruit trees that 
 can possibly be imagined. 
 
 6. The C^irl of the leaf in the Peach. — This disease 
 causes the leaves to assume a reddish color, to become 
 
 * We have observed that cold v\^eather, about the blossoming period, in- 
 duces the gum in plum trees as well as in the peach, and v^'hen it continues 
 long, as in 1849-50 in Western Nevi^ York, there is an unusual development 
 of it. 
 
INSECTS. 365 
 
 thick, curled, and defoiined, and finally to perish. It is 
 supposed by many to be caused by insects ;* but it is 
 really induced by a sudden change of weather. 
 
 A number of warm days, that cause the expansion of 
 the young leaves, followed by a cold rainy day, is almost 
 sure to produce it to some extent ; and the more severe 
 and protracted the cold, the more extensive and fatal it is. 
 The peach trees in Western 'New York suffered more from 
 this in 1849-50 than in the ten years previous, owing to 
 a protracted cold time in each season after the young 
 tender leaves had expanded. In both these seasons the 
 check was so severe, as not only to produce this disease in 
 its worst form, but the gum also ; for the sap not being 
 absorbed by the leaves, became stagnant, sour, and cor- 
 roded, and burst the bark. Trees in sheltered gardens 
 suffer less than those in exj)Osed orchards. There is no 
 possible way of guarding against this ; and the only 
 remedy known to us is, to pick off the diseased leaves the 
 moment the weather changes, that new healthy ones may 
 be produced. 
 
 Section 2. — The Pkincipal Insects iNjrEiors to Feuit 
 
 Trees. 
 
 1. Aphis or PlantyLouse, — ^There are several kinds of 
 these. The two most troublesome to fruit trees are the 
 green and black, small soft insects that a^^pear suddenly 
 in immense quantities on the young shoots of the trees, 
 suck their juices, and consequently arrest their growth. 
 The apple, pear and cherry, are especially infested with 
 them. They multiply with wonderful rapidity. It is said 
 that one individual in five generations might be the pro- 
 genitor of six thousand millions. "Were it not that they 
 
 * Prof, Harris says in his Treatise on Insects, that it is caused by plant- 
 lice puncturing the under sides of the leaves. 
 
366 DISEASES AND INSECTS. 
 
 are easily destroyed, they would present an obstacle almost 
 insufferable in tlie propagation and culture of trees. 
 
 There are many ways of accomplishing their destruc- 
 tion. Our plan is to prepare a barrel of tobacco juice, 
 by steeping stems for several days until the juice is a 
 dark brown, like strong beer ; we then mix this with a 
 solution of soft soap or soap suds. A pail is filled with 
 this, and the ends of the shoots where the insects are 
 assembled are brought down and dipped into the liquid. 
 One dip is enough. Such parts as cannot be dipped are 
 sprinkled liberally. It is apj)lied to the heads of large 
 trees by means of a hand or garden syringe. It should 
 be done in the evening. The liquid may be so strong as 
 to injure the foliage, hence it will be well for persons 
 using it the first time to test it on one or two subjects 
 before applying it extensively. This application must be 
 repeated as often as any of the aphides make their appear- 
 ance. The dry weather of midsummer is generally the 
 time most favorable for their ajDpearance. 
 
 2. The Woolly Aphis or American flight. — This is a 
 small insect, covered with a white woolly substance that 
 conceals its body. They infest the apple tree in particu- 
 lar, both roots and branches, living upon the sap of the 
 bark, and producing small warts or granulations on it by 
 the punctures. They are more particularly troublesome 
 on old rough-barked trees, as they lodge in the crevices, 
 and are difiicult to reach. The wind carries them from 
 one place to another by the light down in which they are 
 enveloped, and thus they spread quickly from one end of 
 a plantation to the other. I^Tot a moment should be lost 
 in destroying the first one that makes its appearance. 
 Where the bark is rough it should be scraped smooth, if 
 the roots be afiected the earth should be removed, and 
 every part washed, and every crevice filled with the fol- 
 lowing preparation, recommended in Harris's Treatise : 
 
INSECTS. 367 
 
 " Two parts of soft soap and eight of water, mixed with 
 lime enougli to bring it to the consistency of thick white- 
 w^ash, to be pnt on with a brush." A solution of two 
 pounds of potash in seven quarts of water will answer 
 the same purpose. Fresh earth should be put upon the 
 roots. 
 
 3. TJiG Scaly Aphis or Bark Louse. — This is a dark 
 brown scale insect, that infests the bark of the apple tree. 
 They are of a dark brown color just like the bark, r.nd 
 are not easily seen unless looked for. They attach them- 
 selves closely to the bark, and sometimes are so numerous 
 as to form a complete coating. They seldom appear on 
 thrifty growing trees in good soil ; but where the soil is 
 damp and cold, and the trees growing feebly, this insect 
 may be looked for. June is the time to destroy them, 
 when they are young. At other times they are hard, and 
 able to resist any ordinary remedy. The same applica- 
 tion recommended for the aphis, applied to them with a 
 hard brush, will effect their destruction. "Where they 
 have been left for a long time undisturbed, and have 
 pretty well covered the tree, the quickest and best remedy 
 is to destroy tree and all^ unless it possesses some extraor- 
 dinary claim for indulgence. Prof. Hams mentions 
 having found a reddish brown bark louse on his grape- 
 vine, arranged in rows one behind another in the crevices 
 of the bark. 
 
 4. The Aj)ple Tree Borer is a very troublesome insect 
 in some sections of the country. In Western Kew 1 ork 
 we have never met with it but in two or three instances, 
 in very old, neglected orchards, that had stood for twenty 
 years in grass. The beetle is striped brown and white, 
 and is about three-fourths of an inch long. It deposits its 
 eggs in June, in the bark of the trees near the ground. 
 Here the larva is hatched, becoming a whitish grub, 
 which saws its way into the tree, perforating it in all 
 
368 DISEASES ANT> INSECTS. 
 
 directions, sometimes completely girdling it. The most 
 effectual method to destroy them is, to insert the end of a 
 wire into their burrow, and killing them. The same 
 means are taken to guard against them as against the 
 peach tree grub, viz., placing a mound of ashes around 
 the base of the trunk in the spring, and allowing it to 
 remain until after the season in which the beetles deposit 
 their eggs. It prevents them from reaching the soft bark 
 at the surface of the ground, the place usually selected. 
 It is stated in Downing's Fruit and Fruit Trees, that "the 
 beetles may be destroyed in June by building small fires 
 of shavings in different parts of the orchard." 
 
 5. The Apple Worm. — The apple moth deposits its 
 eggs in the eye or calyx of the young fruit ; the grub is 
 there hatched, and eats its way into the fruit, leaving be- 
 hind it a brownish j)owder. Sometimes the apples drop 
 before they are half grown, and occasionally remain until 
 they acquire a premature ripeness. Early apjDles are more 
 affected, generally, than late ones, probably because in a 
 more forward state when the eggs are deposited. 
 
 When the fruit falls the grub immediately leaves, pre- 
 pares itself a place in some crevice of the bark of the tree, 
 and spins a thin paper-like cocoon, in which it spends the 
 winter, to come out the following spring and reproduce it- 
 self. There are but two ways of destroying them ; one is, 
 at pruning time in March, to search carefully for the 
 cocoons and destroy them, and the other is to pick up 
 promptly all fallen wormy fruits and destroy them. These 
 two means, industriously followed, will greatly diminish 
 the amount of wormy fruit, the increase of which is excit- 
 ing alarm. 
 
 6. The CcmJcer Worm.— This insect is confined chiefly 
 to Kew England ; we have never seen it in 'New York. 
 
 They generally emerge from the ground in March. 
 According to Professor Harris, some rise during the late 
 
INSECTS. 369 
 
 autumn and winter months. The female has no wino-s, 
 but crawls up the tree, and lays her eggs on the branches 
 in May, in clusters of 60 to 100 in each, glued to each 
 other and to the bark by a greyish varnish impervious to 
 water ; the little worms fall upon the leaves, and, when 
 numerous, devour them all, leaving only the mid-ribs. 
 They leave the trees when about four weeks old, and 
 descend into the ground. Their effects are most visible in 
 June, when the trees, divested of their foliage, aj)pear as 
 if scorched by fire. 
 
 As the female cannot fly, the great point is to prevent 
 her from crawling up; for this purpose various means 
 have been tried and are recommended. One of the most 
 effectual is to tie strips of canvas around the tree and cover 
 it with tar, renewing the tar during their whole season of 
 rising, or from October till May. Another is, to make a 
 close fitting collar of boards around the base of the tree, 
 and keep them covered with tar. Mr. Jonathan Dennis, of 
 Portsmouth, Khode Island, obtained a patent for a circular 
 leaden trough filled with oil, which proves an effectual 
 preventive. 
 
 7. Caterjnllars. — Of these there are many kinds that are 
 more or less destructive to the foliage of fruit trees ; but 
 the Caterpillar, described by Professor Harris as the 
 American Tent Catei'jDillar, is the one that commits such 
 general and extensive devastation in our orchards, and 
 especially in certain seasons. The moth deposits its eggs 
 in July, in large rings, on the branches of the trees ; 
 these remain in that state until the following season, when 
 they are hatched in the latter end of May or beginning of 
 June. Each ring produces three or four hundred cater- 
 pillars, and these weave a sort of web to live in. The ap- 
 pearance of a tree with three or four of these tents upon 
 it, and the leaves completely devoured, is really frightful. 
 There are two ways of destroying them : one is, to examine 
 
370 DISEASES AND INSECTS. 
 
 the trees carefully in February or March, at pruning time, 
 and destroy the clusters of eggs by cutting off and burn- 
 ing the branches on which they are found. The next is 
 to destroy the caterpillars in their tents after they are 
 hatched. There are various ways of doing this, according 
 to people's fancy and ingenuity. The quickest and most 
 effectual method is to take a ladder, ascend the trees, and 
 remove every nest wdth the hands. The early morning 
 should be chosen, when they are in the nests. Some put 
 a round brush on a pole and put it in the nests, and by 
 giving it a few turns web and all are removed. 
 
 8. The Cherry cmd Pear Slug. — This is a most destruc- 
 tive insect. They appear in June and July for the first, 
 and a second brood afterwards, small, slimy, dark-brown 
 slugs on the upper surfaces of the leaves of the cherry 
 and pear. They devour greedily the parenchyma of the 
 leaves, leaving only the bare net-work of veins. In a 
 short time growth is completely stopped. 
 
 Stocks for budding require careful watching, for a day 
 or two of these slugs may prevent them from being worked 
 that season. "We destroy them by throwing fine earth 
 taken up with the hand among the trees, and by ashes or 
 slaked lime, when the earth is not sufficiently dry and 
 fine. The caustic properties of lime and ashes render 
 them more certainly destructive to the slug, and they 
 should always be used in preference to common earth, 
 where only a few trees are to be gone over. 
 
 A liberal syringing with the tobacco and soap liquid 
 recommended for the aphis, but in a weaker state, is ser- 
 viceable after the ashes and lime. It must be remembered 
 that one application will seldom be sufficient. Some es- 
 cape even to the third or fourth ; but in all cases the war- 
 fare should be sustained whilst one remains. Like the 
 aphis they are generally most troublesome in warm and 
 dry seasons. 
 
INSECTS. 371 
 
 9. The Curculio or Plum Weevil. — This is a small grey- 
 isli brown beetle nearly a qnarter of an inch long ; the 
 wing covers form two little humps on the back, which give 
 it a roundish appearance, and it has a long crooked snont, 
 well adapted to its destructive propensities. They can 
 fly, but are not active ; and by jarring the part on Avhicli 
 they stand, suddenly, they fall to the ground, draw in 
 their legs and appear dead. It deposits its egg in a 
 semicircular incision which it makes in the young fruit ; 
 it there hatches, eats into the fruit, and causes it to fall 
 while yet green. It is the most troublesome of all insects 
 injurious to fruits. In some places it destroys the entire 
 crop of plums, apricots, and nectarines, and attacks even the 
 cherry and the apple. The peach, even, is not wholly 
 exemj^t, notwithstanding its. coat of down. Almost every 
 remedy that ingenuity can devise has been tried. This 
 whole book would not contain what has been written on 
 the subject in one year alone. Yet no complete, effectual 
 remedy has been discovered. The strongest liquid apjoli- 
 cations of lime, soap, and tobacco — the most powerful 
 and offensive odors, that repel any other insects, are en- 
 tirely harmless and inoffensive to the curculio. There 
 seem to be really but two means w^orthy of being re- 
 sorted to. One is, to pave, or in some other way harden, 
 the surface of the ground, so that the grubs cannot enter 
 it to complete their transformations. This is found effi- 
 cient where no other trees are in the immediate vicinity 
 not paved. We have seen many instances where good 
 crops were obtained by this mode. The fact that they are, 
 as a general thing, less troublesome in stiff clay soils than 
 in light porous ones, is alone a proof of the efficacy of a 
 stiff or impenetrable surface soil. 
 
 Add to this the picking up of fruit containing the grub 
 as soon as it drops from the tree, and before the worm has 
 a chance to escape. 
 
372 DISEASES ANT) INSECTS. 
 
 To accomplish both these ends, some people have 
 planted their plums and apricots in a small enclosure by 
 themselves, adjoining the hog-pen, and as soon as the 
 fruits begin to drop, these animals are admitted, and 
 gather all up, and, at the same time, tread the ground so 
 firmly that it is almost as good as if it were paved. 
 
 This is probably the easiest and best way to ensure a 
 crop of the fruits attacked by this insect. 
 
 Another way is, to jar the tree daily three or four times 
 a day, from the moment they begin to appear, w^iich is 
 when the fruit is the size of a pea, until they have disap- 
 peared, or the fruit begins to ripen, when it is no longer 
 attacked. 
 
 Serious injuries have been inflicted on plum trees, by 
 thoughtlessly striking the bark of the trunk or a large 
 branch with a mallet to jar the trees. The safer way is 
 to strike on the end of a cut branch, or to fix a cushion 
 of some soft material on the end of a short stick, and 
 place the cushion on the tree, and strike the other end 
 with the mallet. The insects are much easier jarred off 
 in the cool of the morning while they are comparatively 
 torpid. 
 
 Before commencing to jar them down, a white sheet or 
 cloth, wide enough to cover all the ground under the 
 branches, should be spread to receive the insects as they 
 fall, so that they may be destroyed. This was recom- 
 mended through the " Genesee Farmer," by David 
 Thomas, twenty years ago. 
 
 From repeated observations, I am inclined to believe 
 that it is quite sensitive to cold, for it is well known that 
 in the cool of the morning it is always in a comparative 
 state of torpor ; and in the cold seasons of 1849-50, when 
 our peach trees and fruit were so greatly injured, the 
 curculio was driven off, and we had a most abundant 
 crop of plums. A cold day or two may not affect it ; but 
 
INSECTS. 373 
 
 when it continues for two weeks, as in the years referred 
 to, it seems to be rendered powerless for that season. 
 
 10. Ants. — ^These are not very destructive, yet they 
 sometimes do considerable injury to beds of seedlings, by 
 making their hillocks among them, and they also infest 
 ripe fruits. 
 
 Boiling water, oil, or spirits of turpentine, poured on 
 their hillocks, disperses them ; and if wide-mouthed bot- 
 tles, half filled with sweetened water or syrup, be hung 
 among the branches of a tree when the fruit is attaining 
 maturity, ants, wasps, flies, and beetles of all sorts that 
 prey greedily upon sweets, will be attracted into them. 
 
 Mr. Downing, who recommends this as a " general ex- 
 tirpator suited to all situations," says, " that an acquaint- 
 ance caught in this way, in one season, more than three 
 htishels of insects of various kinds, and preserved his 
 garden almost entirely against them." 
 
 A gentleman in Detroit, who was very careful of his 
 garden, informed me that he had pursued this method 
 of trapping insects with results that perfectly astonished 
 him. He had to empty the bottles every few days to 
 make room for more. A very good way of trapping 
 and killing ants is, to besmear the inside of flower pots 
 with molasses, and turn them on their mouths near the 
 hillock ; the insects will soon assemble inside on the 
 molasses, when they are easily destroyed by a handful of 
 burning straw. 
 
 11. The Peach Tree Borer. — This is a most destructive 
 insect when allowed to increase for a few years without 
 molestation. We have seen whole orchards of fine trees 
 ruined by them. They sometimes attack even young 
 trees in the nursery, and commit serious depredations on 
 their collar, rendering them in many cases quite unfit for 
 planting. Their multiplication should be prevented by 
 all possible means. The eggs are deposited in summer 
 
374 
 
 disp:ases and insects. 
 
 on the base of the trunk, near the collar, where the bark 
 is soft. There thej are hatched, and bore their way 
 under the bark of the tree, either in the stem or root, or 
 both, producing an eft'usion of gum. Where trees are 
 already affected, the proper course is, to remove the earth 
 from around the collar of the root, clean away the gum, 
 destroy any cocoons that may be found, trace the grub 
 through its holes in the tree, and kill it ; then fill up 
 around the tree with fresh earth, and place a shovelful or 
 two of ashes around the base. One of the best orchards 
 in the vicinity of Rochester was at one time nearly 
 ruined by the prevalence of this grub, when it changed 
 proprietors, and the present one adopted and followed the 
 plan recommended above, until there is not the trace of 
 one left. The ashes or slaked lime should be applied 
 every spring, and at the end of summer may be scattered 
 about the tree ; both ashes and lime form an excellent 
 dressing for the peach. 
 
 12. The Bose Bug. — ^The eggs of this insect are laid in 
 the earth, where they are hatched, and from which the 
 bug emerges about the rose season. 
 
 In some seasons and in some localities they aj^pear 
 like grasshoppers in vast multitudes, and commit extensive 
 ravages, not only on the rose but fruit trees, and all other 
 green things. There is no other way known to combat 
 them, but to crush them with the hand — to spread cloths 
 around the trees, and shake them down on it, and kill 
 them. They are stupid, sluggish things, and fall as 
 though they had no life. 
 
 In some cases fruit trees have been protected by cover- 
 ing: them with millinet. 
 
 13. Leaf Boilers. — In May and June these insects may 
 be found on the leaves of fruit trees, and especially on the 
 pear ; they form themselves a sort of cocoon out of the 
 leaf. The leaves attacked bv them should be removed and 
 
ANIMALS INJURIOUS TO FEUIT TEEES. 875 
 
 destroyed, in order to prevent their increase. The eggs 
 are deposited on the young leaves by some of the multi- 
 tudes of spring beetles. 
 
 Section 3. — Animals Injurious to Fruits and Fruit 
 
 Trees. 
 
 1. Birds. — As a general thing, birds are more the 
 friends than the enemies of the garden. Many of them 
 subsist in greater part on insects, and thus perform ser- 
 vices that are by no means appreciated. The early cher- 
 ries are generally the greatest sufferers by them, and 
 various devices are practised to frighten them away, the 
 most cruel of which is shooting. Moving objects resem- 
 bling the human figure, bits of looking-glass or tin sus- 
 pended among the branches, etc., are often eflfectual. 
 Dwarf trees are easily covered with thin netting support- 
 ed on poles and fastened at the base of the tree. 
 
 2. Field Mice. — ^The most effectual preventive is 
 clean culture. Leave no grass, weeds, rubbish, or heaps 
 of stones around the garden or orchard, and the mice will 
 seldom be troublesome. Their operations of girdling are 
 principally carried on beneath the snow, and when this is 
 firmly trodden down as soon as it falls, it obstructs their 
 way. A correspondent of the " Horticulturist" states 
 that he has found tin tubes fixed around the base of the 
 tree, an effectual remedy ; and Mr. Hooker, of Rochester, 
 has successfully driven them off "with poison. He takes a 
 block of wood six inches long and three or four square, 
 and bores it lengthwise with an inch and half auger 
 nearly through, and places in the lower end some corn 
 meal and arsenic. He places these blocks among the 
 trees, mouth inclined downwards, " to keep the powder 
 dry." 
 
376 DISEASES AND INSECTS. 
 
 8. Moles. — ^These are easily poisoned and driven off, by 
 putting pills of flour mixed with arsenic into their holes, 
 and shutting them up. We have seen them banished by 
 bits of dried codfish placed in the entrance of their 
 holes. 
 
 4. Cats often commit serious depredations on trees by 
 scratching the bark. Quite recently we saw a large 
 number of beautiful fruit trees nearly ruined by them. 
 A few briers secured around trees in the vicinity of the 
 house, where they frequent most, will be a sufficient pro- 
 tection. 
 
 5. Hogs. — It is not generally supposed that these ani- 
 mals will attack trees ; but we have heard of a western 
 farmer who turned in a large number of them to consume 
 the corn that had been grown in his young orchard. 
 When the corn began to grow scarce they attacked the 
 trees, and not one out of several hundred but was complete- 
 ly girdled — the bark gnawed off as far up as the brutes 
 could reach. 
 
 Where it may be desirable to turn hogs into an orchard, 
 unless the feed be very abundant, the trees should be 
 protected around the base with thorns, briers, or some 
 prickly brush. 
 
CHAPTEE lY. 
 
 NUESERY, OECHARD, AND FEUIT GAEDEN^ IMPLE- 
 MENTS. 
 
 The following are the principal implements used in the 
 propagation, pruning, and cultivation of fruit trees : 
 
 Section 1. — Implements of the Soil. 
 
 The Subsoil Plough is the great reformer of the day in 
 the preparation of soils of all qualities and textures, for 
 nursery, orchard, or garden trees. It follows the ordinary 
 plough in the same furrow ; and the largest size, No. 2, 
 with a powerful team, can loosen the subsoil to the depth 
 of eighteen inches. No. 1 will be sufficient in clear land 
 w^hen the subsoil is not very stiff. 
 
 The One-HoTse Plough. — Similar to the common plough 
 used by farmers. It is a labor-saving imj)lement for cul- 
 tivating the ground among nursery trees or orchards 
 closely planted. The horse should be steady, the man 
 careful, and the whiffle-tree as short as possible, that the 
 trees need not be bruised. It should neither run so deep 
 nor so near the trees as to injure the roots. 
 
 The Cultivator. — This with the plough obviates the 
 necessity of spade-w^ork, and, in a great measure, hoeing. 
 If the ground be ploughed in the spring, and the culti- 
 vator passed over it once every week or two during the 
 summer, all the hoeing necessary will be a narrow strip 
 
378 
 
 NURSERY AND FRriT GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 
 
 of a few inches on each side of the row. The double- 
 pointed steel-toothed, with a wheel in front, is the best. 
 
 The One-IIorse Cart. — This is an indispensable machine 
 in the nursery, orchard, or large garden. Four-wheeled 
 wagons are difficult to unload, and require a great deal of 
 space to turn in. The cart can be turned in a circle of 
 twelve or fourteen feet, and the load discharged in a mo- 
 ment, simply by taking out the key that fastens the body 
 to the shafts, throwing it up and moving the horse forward. 
 Our carts are about six feet long and three wide in the 
 body, shafts six feet long, wheels four and a half feet 
 high, and tire two and a half wide to prevent them from 
 sinking into the ground. The box is about a foot deep, 
 and when large loads are to be carried a spreading board 
 is put on the top with brackets. Cost from $30 to $50. 
 
 The Wheelbarrow (fig. 132). — Every man who has a 
 rod of ground to cul- 
 tivate should pos- 
 sess this machine. 
 In small gardens it 
 is sufficient for the 
 conveyance of all 
 manures, soils, pro- 
 ducts, etc., and in 
 larger places it is al- 
 ways needed for use, where a cart cannot go. 
 or levers should be of ash or some tough wood, 
 
 sides and bottom of any light wood, 
 wood, shod with iron. 
 
 The handles 
 and the 
 The wheel is soft 
 
 The S^ade (fig. 133).- 
 
 Fig. 133. 
 
 Spade. 
 
 -The best kinds of these in use 
 
IMPLEMENTS OF THE SOIL. 
 
 379 
 
 are Ames' cast-steel ; excellent, strong, light articles. 
 They work clean and bright as silver. There are several 
 sizes. For heavy work, trenching, draining, raising trees, 
 etc., the largest should be used. 
 
 TJie SJiovel (fig, 134). — ^This is used in mixing, loading, 
 and spreading composts and short manures. The blade 
 should be of cast-steel. 
 
 Fig. 135. 
 Digging Fork, or Forked Spade. 
 
 The ForTted Sjpade (fig. 135). — ^This resembles a fork. 
 It has three stout cast-steel tines, at least an inch wide, 
 and pointed. It is used instead of a sj^ade to loosen the 
 earth about the roots of trees, to turn in manures, etc., 
 being much less liable to cut and injure them than the 
 spade. 
 
 The Dung Fork (fig. 136). — ^There are several kinds. 
 
380 
 
 NUESEKT AND FRTJIT GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 
 
 Those of cast-steel, cut out of a solid plate, with three or 
 four tines, are the best, light and durable. It is the only- 
 implement proper for loading, mixing, or spreading fresh 
 rough manures with facility and despatch. 
 
 The Pick. — This is a useful, and even indispensable 
 implement in the deepening or trenching of soils with a 
 hard subsoil that cannot be operated upon with the spade. 
 It consists of an ash handle, and a head composed of two 
 levers of iron pointed with steel, and an 
 eye in the centre for the handle. 
 
 The Garden Line and Heel (fig. 137). — 
 The line should be a good hemp cord, 
 from one eighth to one fourth of an inch 
 in diameter, attached to light iron stakes 
 about eighteen inches long. On one of 
 the stakes a reel is attached. This is turned 
 by means of a handle, and the line neatly 
 and quickly wound up. 
 
 The Hoe. — This is a universal instrument in this coun- 
 try. In some cases, all the gardening operations are per- 
 formed with it. Its uses in tree culture are to open 
 trenches for seeds, to cover them, to loosen and clean the 
 surface of the ground from weeds, (fee. There are two 
 kinds, the draw hoe, figs. 138, 139, 140, and the Dutch, 
 
 Fig. 137. 
 
 Garden Line aud 
 Reel. 
 
 Fig. 13S 
 Square draw hoe. 
 
 Fig. 139. 
 Triangle draw hoe. 
 
 or thrust hoe, fig. 141 ; this we do not use at all. Of the 
 
IMPLEMENTS OF THE SOIL. 
 
 381 
 
 different kinds and forms of the draw hoe. The most 
 generally useful is the sq^uare, a cast steel plate, about 
 
 Fig. 140. 
 Semicircular draw hoe. 
 
 six inches long and four wide, with a light smooth handle. 
 
 The semicircular and triangle hoes may be advantageously 
 
 used in certain cases. 
 
 Tlie Rake^ fig. 142, is used 
 to level, smooth, pulverize, and 
 clean the surface of the ground 
 after it has been spaded or 
 hoed, or to prepare it for seeds, 
 &c. They are of different 
 sizes, with from six to twelve 
 teeth. The best are those of 
 which the head and teeth are 
 drawn out of a solid bar of 
 steel. Those that are welded 
 and riveted soon ejet out of 
 
 Fig. 142. ^ 
 
 Garden rake. Order. 
 
 Section 2. — Implements for Cutting. 
 The Pruning Saw. — ^This is used for cutting off 
 
382 
 
 NUKSEHY AND FEUIT GAEDEN IMPLEMENTS. 
 
 branches, either too large for the knife, or so situated that 
 the knife cannot operate. It has various sizes and forms. 
 Some are jointed, and fold like a pruning knife ; others 
 are like the common carpenter's handsaw, fig. 143, but 
 smaller and stouter. 
 
 Fig. 143. — Pruning saw. 
 
 Fig. 144. — Bow saw. 
 
 The Bow Sato (fig. 144). — This is the most generally 
 useful form for the gardener, or nurseryman. The blade 
 is very narrow, and stiffened by an arched back. It is 
 fastened at both ends by a rivet to the screw on which the 
 back turns, and by which it is adapted to different pur- 
 poses. It is indispensable in making horizontal cuts, close 
 to the ground, as in heading down. 
 
 Some are set with a double row of teeth on one side, 
 and the edge is much thicker than the back ; these work 
 much easier than those toothed in the ordinary way, and 
 it would be an object to have them where much saw prun- 
 ing is to be done. Wherever the saw is used, the cut 
 surfaces should be pared smooth with the knife, to facili- 
 tate its healing. 
 
 Long handled pruning saws are sometimes recom- 
 mended, but never should be used in pruning fruit trees. 
 The branch to be operated should be reached by means 
 of a ladder, if need be, within arm's length, and cut with 
 a common saw. 
 
BIPLEMENTS FOK CUTTING. 
 
 383 
 
 Hand Prxining Sliears (fig. 145). — There is a kind of 
 these made now, that having a moving centre, as in the 
 
 Fig. 145. 
 
 figure, make a smooth draw cut almost equal to that of a 
 knife, and it is a very expeditious instrument in the 
 hand of a skilful workman. In pruning out small dead 
 branches, shortening in peach trees, &c., it will perform 
 four times as much work as a knife. 
 
 Pole Pruning Shears. — These resemble the hand shears, 
 but are worked by a string passing over a pulley, and are 
 fixed on a pole of any required length. They are used in 
 cutting scions, diseased shoots, &c., from the heads of 
 lofty standard trees. 
 
 Grape Scissors. — These 
 are small sharp pointed 
 scissors for thinning 
 
 Fio. 146.-Grape scissors. buUchcS of grapCS. 
 
 TJie Priming Knife. — ^The best for general purposes 
 
 Fig. 147.— The pruning knife. Fro. 148.— The budding knife. 
 
 are those of medium size, with a handle about four inches 
 long, smooth, slightly hollowed in the back ; the blade 
 about three and a half inches long, three-quarters of an 
 inch wide, and nearly straight. For very heavy work a 
 larger size may be necessary. " Saynor's" (English) 
 knives of this kind are misurpassed in material and finish. 
 
384 
 
 NUKSEKY AND FEUIT GAEDEN IMPLEMENTS. 
 
 They are to be had in the seed stores at $1 to |1 25 
 a-piece. 
 
 The Budding Knife. — ^This is much smaller than the 
 pruning knife, with a thin straight blade, the edge some- 
 times rounded at the point. The handle is of bone or 
 ivory, and has a thin wedge-shaped end for raising the 
 bark. Budders have various fancies about shape and 
 size. 
 
 The Grafting Chisel. 
 — This is used for 
 splitting large stocks; 
 
 Fig. 149.-Grafting Chisel. the bladQ is about tWO 
 
 inches long, and an inch and a half wide, in the shape of 
 a wedge ; the edge curved so as to cut, and not tear the 
 bark ; the handle eight or ten inches long, at the end of 
 Vv^hich is a narrow wedge to keep the split open until the 
 scion is inserted. The whole is of steel. Some are made 
 with the blade in the middle, the wedge at one end, and 
 a hook to hang it by on the other. 
 
 Foote'^s Stock Splitter. — ^This is an implement invented 
 by A. Foote, Esq., of Williamstown, Mass., to facilitate 
 cleft grafting. It consists of a sharp blade, c, and a groove, 
 
 Fig. 150. — Foote's stock splitter. 
 
 ^, sheathed with leather; the handles are of wood, and 
 the whole implement about eighteen inches long. The 
 stock is placed in the groove, and the blade brought down 
 upon it by the lever which acts upon a small wheel, h. 
 It performs splitting both neatly and quickly. 
 
LADDERS AND FRUIT GATHERERS. 
 
 385 
 
 Section 3. — Ladders and Fruit Gatherers. 
 
 Ladders. — Of these there are many kinds. For the 
 fruit garden, where the trees are low, the self-supporting 
 ladder (fig. 151) is the most convenient and best. It 
 should be made of light wood^ with fl.at steps, so that a 
 person can stand upon them and 
 work. The back, or supports, con- 
 sist of one or two light pieces of tim- 
 ber, fixed at the top with hooks and 
 straps so as to be contracted or ex- 
 tended at pleasure. A ladder of this 
 kind, six or eight feet high, will an- 
 swer all the demands of a garden. 
 
 Orchard Ladders are of various 
 kind^. For pruning or gathering the 
 fruit from lofty trees, a great length 
 of ladder is necessary ; it is there- fig. i5i. 
 
 fore desirable that the material be as seif-supportrng ladder. 
 light as possible consistent with the necessary strength. 
 
 Sometimes these long ladders are composed of several 
 smaller ones, that fit into one another, all mounted on a 
 frame with a small w^heel, by which they are easily 
 moved about. 
 
 TTie Folding Ladder is a very neat and convenient 
 article for many purposes. The inside of the styles is 
 hollowed out, and the steps are fastened to them by means 
 of iron pins, on which they turn as on hinges, so that the 
 two sides can be brought together, the steps turning into 
 the grooves or hollows in them, the whole appearing like 
 a round pole, B. It is more easily carried and placed 
 where wanted than the ordinary ladder. A represents it 
 open, and B closed (fig, 15^). 
 
 There are aUo self-siipiwrting orchard ladders.^ com- 
 
Obb NUESEKY AND FHUIT GASDEN IMPLEMENTS. 
 
 posed of three upright pieces of any required length, and 
 spread widely at the bottom to give them stability. Two 
 
 Fig. 152. 
 Folding ladder. 
 
 of the sides are fixed, and are furnished with steps all 
 the way up. The third is longer and movable, and can 
 be extended or contracted at pleasure. 
 
 A piece of board wide enough to stand upon can be 
 extended from one side to the other, resting upon the 
 steps at whatever height it is desirable to work. On the 
 movable side a pulley is fixed, by which the baskets of 
 fruit are let down as they are gathered. Two persons or 
 more can ascend and work on a 
 ladder at the same time. Fig. 
 153 represents one of these; a, 
 h, the t^o fixed sides ; C, the 
 movable one. It is considera- 
 bly used in France. 
 
 The Orchardists'' Hook. — Is 
 a light rod, with a hook on one 
 end, and a movable piece of 
 wood that slides along: it. 
 
 The person gathering fr.jt 
 draws the branch towards him 
 with the hooked end, and re- 
 tains it there by means of the 
 sliding piece which is hooked 
 to another branch. This is an indispensable instrument 
 in gathering fruit from large trees. 
 
 J^7"mt Gatherers. — Of these there are many designs by 
 
 Fig 153. 
 
 French self-supporting orchard 
 ladder. 
 
MACIIINES FOR WATEKIXG. 387 
 
 wliicli tlie fniit may be taken from the tree by a person 
 standing on the ground. None of them are applicable to 
 the gathering of fruits that are to be kept long, because 
 it is impossible to avoid bruising them more or less, and 
 besides this they oj^erate slowly. They answer very well 
 for gathering a few ripe specimens for immediate consump- 
 tion. The ladder^ Jiook^ and Jiand^ are the only safe and 
 expeditious fruit gatherers. Some are made in the form 
 of a vase of wood or tin placed on the end of a pole. The 
 edge of the vase is toothed, and when the stem of the 
 fruit is taken between two of the teeth, and slightly 
 twisted, it drops. Others are composed of a pair of 
 shears on the end of a pole, to which a basket is attached 
 that slides up and down the handle. 
 
 The Grape Gatlurer resembles a pair of shears com- 
 bining the property of pincers. They cut a bunch of 
 grapes, and hold it firmly until it is brought down. 
 These are very useful for gathering a few bunches of 
 grapes from the toj) of a house or trellis (fig. 154). 
 
 Fig. 154. 
 Grape Gatherer. 
 
 Section 4. — Machines for "Watering. 
 
 The Hand Syringe (fig. 155). — ^This is a very useful 
 implement for sprinkling and washing the foliage of trees 
 in dry weather. There are various kinds made of tin, 
 copper, and brass, and sold at various prices. Whatever 
 sort is used should have several caps {A) to regulate the 
 
NURSERY AND FRUIT GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 
 
 quantity or shower of water discharged ; and they should 
 also have an inverted or " gooseneck" one {B) to throw 
 
 the stream, if necessary, on the under side of leaves, or 
 in any oblique direction. 
 
 There are, also, hand engines^ 'barrel engines^ and har- 
 row engines^ all of which are very useful. In every 
 large garden there should be both the syringe and one of 
 these engines ; for watering is a most important affair in 
 gardening under our hot sun and protracted droughts. 
 
 Fig. 156. 
 Barrow Engine. 
 
 The Barrow Engine (fig. 156) is the most useful for 
 general purposes ; it is easily moved from one place to 
 another. The improved kinds are easily worked, and the 
 
MACHINES FOR WATERING. 
 
 3S9 
 
 water-box being provided with a strainer, excludes any- 
 thing likely to derange its operations. 
 
 The Garden Watermg^ot 
 (fig. 157).— This is a tin or 
 copper vessel that may hold 
 from one to four gallons of 
 water, with a spout six or 
 eight inches long, by which 
 the water is discharged. 
 There should be a rose or 
 roses, as in cut, to fit on the 
 spout, pierced with large or small holes, by which the 
 water can be discharged in a shower. Every pot may 
 have several roses pierced with holes of various sizes, to 
 adapt them to different purposes. 
 
 Fio. 157. 
 Garden Watering-pot. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Air. importance of, to the germination of seeds, 46. 
 
 Alluvial soils, nature of, 49. 
 
 Almonds, select varieties of, 351. 
 
 Anthers, the, 28. 
 
 Ants, method of destroying, 373. 
 
 Aphis, the, hovi^ to destroy, 134, 366 ; the woolly aphis or American blight, 
 366 ; the scaly aphis or bark louse, 367. 
 
 Apple, the, principal stocks in use for, 108; time for budding, 133; dwarf 
 apple tree, 189 ; pruning the, 203 ; management of the standard apple 
 tree, 204; dwarf standards, 206; pyramids, 207; pruning the branched 
 yearling, 210; treatment of two-year old nursery trees, 211 ; management 
 of the fruit branches, 217 ; pruning and management of, as a dwarf on the 
 paradise stock. 218; as an espalier, 220; renovation of pyramidal trees, 
 271 ; fire blight of, 361; insects infesting the, 367; apple tree borer, 
 description of, and means of destroying, ib. ; the apple worm, 368. 
 
 Apples, forms of, 40 ; abridged descriptions of one hundred and thirty-three 
 select varieties of summer, autumn, winter, and apples for ornament and 
 preserving. 279-297 ; small select lists of, suitable for Western New 
 York, 297. 
 
 Apricot, the, stocks for, 119; as a dwarf standard, 194; pruning and ma- 
 nagement of, 245. 
 
 Apricots, abridged descriptions of seven select varieties of, 320, 321- 
 
 Ash, the mountain, as a stock for the pear, 115. 
 
 Bark, the outer, 4 ; the inner, 5. 
 Barrow engine, the, 388. 
 
 Berberries, method of propagating, 148 ; select varieties of, 347. 
 Birds, manner of protecting fruit against, 375. 
 Black knot, the, or plum wart, 364 
 Blackberries, 347. 
 
 Blossoming, period of, influenced by various conditions, 31, 32; in alternate 
 years, 34. 
 
392 INDEX. 
 
 Branches, the, various subdivisions of, 7 ; pruning, 88 ; removal of large, 89^ ; 
 management of fruit, 217. 
 
 Budding, method of, 70 ; conditions necessary to the operation of, 71 ; imple- 
 ments requisite for, 71, 72 ; cutting, preparing, and preserving the buds, 
 72 ; chief difficulty experienced by beginners in, 74, 75 ; time for, 133 ; 
 insertion of the bud, 134 ; untying the buds, 135 ; treatment of the grow- 
 ing bud, 136. 
 
 Buds, nature and functions of, 14; different names and characters of, 15; 
 variations in the size, form, and prominence of leaf buds, 17 ; fruit buds, 
 18 ; leaf and fruit buds how distinguished, 20. 
 
 Bushes, dwarf, 142. 
 
 Calcareous or chalky soils, nature o:^ 4&. 
 
 Calyx, the, 28. 
 
 Cambium, nature of, 24, 
 
 Canada or wild plum, the, 120 ; time for budding, I3S. 
 
 Canker worm, the, 368. 
 
 Cart, the one-horse, 378. 
 
 Caterpillars, methods of destroying, 369. 
 
 Cats, method of protecting trees from, 376. 
 
 Cherries, forms of, 43 ; abridged descriptions of fifty -five select varieties of 
 
 h2art, bigarreau, duke and morello, and new and rare cherries recently 
 
 brought to notice, 321-329 ; small select lists of, 329. 
 Cherry, the, principal stocks in use for, 115; time for budding, 133; in the 
 
 pyramidal form, 191 ; pruning the, 224 ; as a standard, 225 ; to form a 
 
 round open head, 225 ; as a pyramid, 226 ; as an espalier, 227 ; as a dwarf 
 
 or bush, 228 ; effects of the disease called gum on, 362. 
 Chestnuts, method of propagating, 148 ; select varieties of, 351, 352. 
 Chinese layering, description of the process so called, 122, 125. 
 Chisel, the grafting, 384. 
 Clayey soils, nature of, 48. 
 Cleft grafting, 79. 
 Corolla, the, 28. 
 Cotyledons, the, 44. 
 Cultivator, the, 377. 
 Curl of the leaf in the peach, the, 364. 
 Currant, the, method of propagating, 147; pruning sad management of, 265; 
 
 as a pyramid and espalier, 266. 
 Currants, abridged descriptions of eleven select varieties of, 341, 342. 
 Cutting back, object of, 207 ; process of, 208 ; summer management of trees 
 
 cut back, 213. 
 Cuttings of fruit trees, how to make, 65 ; time of making, soil proper for, 
 
 and time of planting, 66 ; method of preserving, 67 ; treatment of, when 
 
 transplanted, 127. 
 
INDEX. 393 
 
 Diseases of fruit trees, description of and remedies for, 361. 
 Distance at which standards should be planted in the nursery, 129. 
 Double-working, explanation of, 81. 
 Doucain, the, method of propagating, 110. 
 Draining, process of, 52. 
 
 Dubreuil, M., his summary of the general principles of pruning, 96, 
 Dung fork, the, 379. 
 
 Dwarf standards, 131 ; management of, 140, 206; dwarf bushes, 142 ; dwarf 
 apple tree, 189 ; the cherry as a dwarf or bush, 228. 
 
 Enclosures, various kinds of, for orcl^rds, 163 : for fruit gardens, 181. 
 
 Espaliers, method of forming, 143 ; proper distances between, 201 ; the 
 apple and pear as, 220 ; the cherry as, 227 ; the peach as, 236 ; method of 
 laying in, and fastening to walls and trellises, 243 ; the currant as, 266. 
 
 Fences, materials for making, for orchards, 163 ; for garaens, 181. 
 
 Fibres, the, or rootlets, 2. 
 
 Fig, the, propagation of, 160 j suitable soil for, 261; pruning and training 
 of, ib. 
 
 Fig^, select varieties of, 350, 351. 
 
 Filbert, the, method of propagating, 148; as a dwarf and pyramid, 194; 
 pruning and training, 257 ; account of the management of filHer* orchards 
 in the county of Kent, England, ib. 
 
 Filberts, abridged descriptions of six varieties of, 352. 
 
 Fire blight, the, of the pear, apple, and quince, 361. 
 
 Flowers, different parts of, 28 ; sexual distinctions of, 29 ; method of im- 
 pregnation of, 30; double, 31; different characters of, 32; hybridization 
 of, 33. 
 
 Foote's stock splitter, 384. 
 
 Fruit rooms, requisites for, 359. 
 
 Fruit trees, names, descriptions, and offices of the different parts of, 1 ; fruit 
 branches and fruit spurs, 10 ; fruit buds, 20; propagation of, by seeds, 60; 
 general carelessness in the selection of the seeds of, 61 ; production of new 
 varieties of, 63 ; propagation of, by cuttings, 65 ; propagation of, by layer- 
 ing, 67 — by suckers and by budding, 70; propagation of, by grafting, 75; 
 pruning of, 83 ; method of regulating the growth of, 92 ; method of pro- 
 moting the fruitfulness of, by pinching, 94 ; budding, grafting, and manage- 
 ment of, in the nursery, 132 ; taking up. from the nursery, 150; method 
 of packing, 151; process of heeling in, 153; permanent plantations of, 
 157; proper soils for different, 162; points to be ^considered in selecting 
 varieties of, for an orchard, 164; arrangement of, in an orchard, 167; 
 pruning and preparing, for planting, 174; how to select, for the fruit gar- 
 den, 188, 195; age of, for the fruit garden, 195; arrangement of, in the 
 fruit garden, 199; sundry operations connected with the culture of. 272; 
 diseases peculiar to, 361 ; insects injurious to. 365. 
 
394: INDEX. 
 
 Fruitfulness, method of promoting, by pinching, 94. 
 
 Fruits, nature and classification of, 34, 35 ; forms and colors of, 36 ; different 
 parts of, ib ; size of, circumstances influencing the, 37 ; classification of 
 the size of, 39 ; form of, 40 ; color and flavor of, 43 ; abridged descriptions 
 of select varieties of, 277 : directions for the gathering, packing, transpor- 
 tation, and preservation of, 354 ; the best fruit gatherers, 387. 
 
 Fruit Garden, the, general remarks on, 178; situation for, 179 ; soil of, 180; 
 enclosures for, 181 ; manner of laying out, 183; the mixed, or fruit and 
 kitchen, 185; walks in, 186; a supply of water important for, 187; how 
 to select trees for, 188, 195; age of trees for, 195; arrangement of trees 
 in, 199 ; implements used in, 377 ; machines for watering, 387. 
 
 Gathering fruits, proper period for, 354 ; mode of, 355 ; disposition of fruits 
 after gathering, 356 ; implements used in, 386. 
 
 Germination, process of, 45. 
 
 Gooseberries, abridged descriptions of five select varieties of, 342, 343. 
 
 Gooseberry, the method of propagating, 147 ; pruning, 262 ; method prac- 
 tised in Lancashire to produce large gooseberries, 264 ; severely affected 
 by the mildew, 363. 
 
 Grafting, process and objects of, 75 ; implements used in, and grafting com- 
 position, 77 ; whip-grafting on the root, 78 ; cleft grafting, 79 ; precau- 
 tions to be taken in, 81 ; double- working, ib.; implements used in, 384. 
 
 Grape vine, the, methods of propagating, 145 ; general observations on the 
 management of, 245 ; planting, 248 ; pruning, 249. 
 
 Grapes, culture of foreign, in cold vineries, 253 ; abridged descriptions of 
 four select varieties of hardy grapes and nine varieties of foreign grapes, 
 348-350 ; instrument for gathering, 387. 
 
 Gravelly soils, nature of 49. 
 
 Growth of trees, method of regulating the, 93. 
 
 Gum, the, in stone fruits, 362. 
 
 Heading down, process of, 85. 
 
 Heart or perfect wood, the, 5. 
 
 Heat, effect of, on the germination of seeds, 46. 
 
 Heeling in, process of, ] 53. 
 
 Hoe, the, two kinds of, 380. 
 
 Hogs, method of protecting trees against injuries caused by, 376. 
 
 Hook, the orchardist's, 386. 
 
 Horse plum, the, 119. 
 
 Hybridization, explanation of the process of, 33. 
 
 Implements used in the orchard, nursery, and fruit garden, 377. 
 Insects, the principal, which infest fruit trees, 365. 
 
 Knife, the pruning, 383 ; the budding, 384. 
 
INDEX. 395 
 
 Labels for trees in the nursery, 149 ; manner of labelling, 150. 
 
 Ladders, orchard, folding, and self-supporting, 385. 
 
 Layering, process of, 67, 125; propagation of plums by, 122; treatment of 
 
 layers when transplanted, 127. 
 Leaf rollers, 374 
 
 Leaves, structure and functions of, 21 ; different forms and characters of, 25. 
 Light, exclusion of, necessary for the germination of seeds, 47. 
 Line and reel, the, 380. 
 Loamy soils, nature of, 49. 
 
 Mahaleb, the, 117. 
 
 Manures, importance of, 54 ; preparation of, 55; special, 56 ; modes of apply- 
 ing. 58 ; liquid, ib. 
 IManuring, proper method of, 272. 
 Mazzard seedlings, 115. 
 
 Medlar, the, treatment of, same as that of the quince, 224. 
 Medullary rays, 7. 
 
 Mice, method of protecting fruit trees from the ravages of, 375. 
 Mildew, the, in the peach, 363. 
 Moisture, effects of, on the germination of seeds, 45. 
 Moles, method of guarding against the ravages of, 376. 
 Mulberries, method of propagating, 148 ; varieties of, 348. 
 Mulching, operation of, 176, 273. 
 
 Nectarine, the, stocks for, 119 ; as a dwarf standard, 194; pruning the, 246. 
 
 Nectarines, abridged descriptions of seven select varieties of, 329, 330. 
 
 Nursery, the, soil of, 105; method of laying out, 107; situation of, and 
 succession of crops in, ib. ; directions for planting stocks in the nursery 
 rows, 127 ; budding, grafting, and management of trees in, 132 ; treatment 
 of the soil in, 144; labels for trees in, 149; taking up trees from, 150; 
 implements used in, 377. 
 
 Orchard, the, situation of, 158; soil of, 161; how to prepare the soil for, 
 162; selection of varieties of fruit trees for the family, 164; kind of trees 
 to be selected for, 166; arrangement of the trees in, 167; selection of 
 trees for the market, 169; planting the, 175; management of trees in, 
 177 ; implements used in, 377, 385. 
 
 Ovary, the, 29. 
 
 Packing trees, proper method of, 151 ; method of packing fruits, 357. 
 Paradise, the, method of propagating, 111. 
 Parenchyma, nature of, 22. 
 Parsons, S. B., his orchard of pear trees, 172. 
 
 Peach, the, principal stocks for, 117 ; times for budding, 133; as a dwarf 
 standard, 193; pruning and management of, 229 ; to form the head of a 
 
6\)b INDEX. 
 
 standard peach tree, 231 ; root pruning, 233 ; conducted in the form of a 
 vase, ib. ; as an espalier, 236 ; symptoms of the yellows and mildew in, 
 363 ; insects infesting, 373. 
 
 Peaches, forms of, 42 ; abridged descriptions of thirty-eight select varieties 
 of freestone and clingstone, 330-335 : select list of, 335. 
 
 Pear, the, principal stocks in use for. 111 ; time for budding, 133; as a pyra- 
 mid, 190, 207; in the dwarf standard form, 191, 206; management of the 
 standard pear tree, 204; pruning the branched yearling, 210; treatment 
 of two-year old nursery trees, 211 ; management of the fruit branches, 
 217; as an espalier, 220; renovation of pyramidal trees, 271 ; fire blight 
 of, 361 ; pear leaf blight, 362. 
 
 Pears, forms of, 41 ; varieties of, that succeed well on the quince, 172 ; 
 abridged descriptions of one hundred and eighty-two select varieties of 
 summer, autumn, winter, pears for baking and stewing, and new and rare 
 varieties, 299-319; select assortments of, 312; method of packing for 
 distant markets, 358. 
 
 Peaty soil, nature of, 49. 
 
 Petals, the, 28. 
 
 Pick, the, 380. 
 
 Pinching, nature and objects of, 92 * 
 
 Pistil, the, 29. 
 
 Pith, the, 5. 
 
 Plant louse, the, ravages of, and method of destroying, 365, 366. 
 
 Plantations of fruit trees, different kinds of, 157. 
 
 Plants, exhalation of moisture and g?ses by, 22 ; propagation of, 60. 
 
 Plough, the subsoil and one-horse, 377. 
 
 Ploughing, subsoil, 50. 
 
 Plum, the, stocks for, 119: the horse, ib. ; the Canada, or wild, 120; the 
 cherry plum, ib. ; the sloe as a stock for, 121 ; propagated by layers, 122; 
 time for budding, 133; as a pyramid, 192; as a dwarf standard, 193; 
 pruning and management of, 244 ; diseases of, 364. 
 
 Plums, forms of, 42 ; abridged descriptions of fifty-one select varieties of, 
 335-340; small select lists of, 341. 
 
 Plumule, the, 44. 
 
 Pruning, importance of the operation of, 83 ; various objects to be attained 
 by, 84 ; to direct the growth from one part to another, ib. ; heading down, 
 85 ; to maintain an equal growth, to renew growth, and to induce fruit- 
 fulness, 86 ; pruning the roots and pruning at the time of transplanting, 
 87 ; mechanically considered, 88 ; season for, 91 ; general principles of, as 
 laid down by Dubreuil, 96 ; directions for the pruning of stocks, 125 
 pruning the apple and the pear, 203 ; the quince, 222 ; th-e cherry, 224 
 the peach, 229; the plum, 244; the apricot, 245; the nectarine, 246 
 grape vines, ib. ; the filbert, 257; the fig, 260; the gooseberry, 262; the 
 currant, 265; the raspberry, 267; implements used in, 381. 
 
INDEX. 397 
 
 Pyramids, management of, 140, 207; renovation of, 271. 
 
 Quince, the, as a stock for the pear, 113; erroneous ideas concerning, 114- 
 as a dwarf and pyramid, 194; pruning and training of, 222; fire blight 
 of, 361. 
 
 Quinces, abridged descriptions of seven select varieties of, 319, 320. 
 
 Rake, the, 381. 
 
 Raspberries, forms of, 43 ; method of proj)agating, 148 ; abridged descriptions 
 
 of six select varieties of, 343, 344. 
 Raspberry, the, planting of, 267 ; pruning, 268 ; manuring and training, 269 ; 
 
 French and P^ngli&h modes of training, 269, 270. 
 Root, the, the several parts of, 2 ; growth of, 3 ; whip-grafting on, 78 ; 
 
 pruning, 87, 90 ; method of planting root-grafts, 131. 
 Rosebug, the, 374. 
 
 Sandy soils, nature of, 48. 
 
 Sap, the, ascent, assimilation, and descent of, 24 ; tendency of, to the grow- 
 ing points at the top of a tree, 85. 
 
 Sap wood, the, 5. 
 
 Saw, the pruning, 381 ; the bow, 382. 
 
 Scions, selection and treatment of, for grafting, 76. 
 
 Scissors, grape, 383. 
 
 Seed, the, composition of, 44 ; germination of, 45 ; propagation by, 60 ; 
 selection of, 61. 
 
 Seedling apple, the common or free stock, preparing, saving, and planting 
 the seed of, 108 ; after management of, 109 ; the pear seedling. 111. 
 
 Shears, hand pruning and pole pruning, 383. 
 
 Shovel, the, 379. 
 
 Sloe, the, as a stock for the plum, 121. 
 
 Soils, different kinds of, 48 ; different modes of improving, 50 ; proper, for 
 the orchard, 161 ; annual cultivation of the soil, 272. 
 
 Spade, the, 378 ; the forked spade, 379. 
 
 Spongioles, the, 3. 
 
 Staking, process of, 176. 
 
 Stamens, the, 28. 
 
 Standards, management of, 137; dwarf, management of, 140. 
 
 Stem, the, the different parts of, 4 ; structure and growth of, 6 ; the branches 
 divisions of, 7 ; pruning, 88. 
 
 Stigma, the, '.i9. 
 
 Stocks, necessity of a close alliance between, and grafts, 76; description and 
 propagation of, ] 08 ; for the apple, id. ; for the pear, 111; for the cherry, 
 115 ; for the peach. 117 ; for the apricot, nectarine, and plum, 119; trans- 
 planting, 122; time and manner of taking up, 124; pruning storks, 125; 
 
398 INDEX. 
 
 planting in the nursery rows, 127 ; treatment of, after planting, 132 ; time 
 for budding, 133 ; preparation of, and insertion of the bud, 134. 
 
 Strawberries, forms of, 43 ; method of propagating, 147; abridged descrip- 
 tions of twenty-six select varieties of, 344-346. 
 
 Style, the, 29. 
 
 Subsoil ploughing, 50; the subsoil plough, 377. 
 
 Suckers, propagation of fruit trees by means of, 70. 
 
 Syringe, the hand, 3S7. 
 
 Temperature, method of protecting trees against extremes of, 273 
 
 Thorn, the, as a stock for the pear, 115. 
 
 Transplanting stocks, directions for, 122. 
 
 Tree, a, general remarks upon the structure of, 1 ; the root, 2 ; the stem, 4 ; 
 
 the branches. 7 ; the buds, 14 ; the leaves, 21 : the flowers, 28 ; the fruit, 
 
 34 ; the seed, 44. 
 Trellises, form and construction of, 182. 
 Trenching, process of, 51. 
 
 Varieties of fruits, abridged descriptions of select, 277. 
 Vineyards, culture of, 252. 
 
 Walks, manner of laying out, in the fruit garden, 186. 
 
 Walnuts, method of propagating, 149 ; abridged descriptions of varieties 
 
 of, 353. 
 Water, a supply of, important for a fruit garden, 187. 
 Watering, beneficial effects of, in fruit trees, 273 ; machines for, 387 ; the 
 
 garden watering-pot, 389. 
 Wheelbarrow, the, 378. 
 Whip-grafting on the root, 78. 
 Wilder. M. P., compost recommended by, for gardening purposes, 57. 
 
 Yellows, the, in the peach, 363. 
 
ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 ELLWANGER & BARRY, 
 
 PKOPEIETORS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 ROCHESTER, N. Y., 
 
 Solicit the attention of Nurserymen, Orchardists and dealers 
 in Trees to their extensive stock. Their Nurseries cover one 
 hundred acres of the finest land in the Genesee Valley — and 
 
 fMlH AND ORNAfiENTAL TREES OF ALL KINDS 
 
 are so extensively grown that they can be furnished on the most 
 reasonable terms. Especial attention is given to 
 
 iWiif fiiif fiiii fii iiiii 
 
 Upwards of Two Hundred Thousand Trees of this kind, of the 
 different fruits will be offered at reduced prices in the Autumn of 
 1851. 
 
 The following Catalogues will be sent gratis to all post paid ap- 
 plications. 
 
 1. A General Descriptive Catalogue. 
 
 2. A Wholesale Catalogue. 
 
 3. A Catalogue of Select Green House Plants. 
 
 4. Special Catalogues of Dahlias, Bedding Plants, 
 EOSES. &c.. &o. 
 
^. 
 
 
°000=il?074 
 
 -'^I21,«»NGRESS 
 
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