^■^f 
 
 PEICE 50 CENTS. 
 THE 
 
 BUILDERS' GUIDE l 
 
 P@€^E¥'€@HPAHf@H 
 
 FOE 
 
 Ga^ent^^s, Go ut±<acto±<s 
 qrid Bqildei<s. 
 
 I. P. HICKS, Publisher, 
 Omaha, Neb. 
 
 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 1890. 
 Copyright, 1890, by I. P. Hicks. 
 
 m> 
 
 !► 
 
 
 v srvV v V v 
 
 
THE 
 
 BUILDERS' GUIDE 
 
 AND 
 
 POCKET COMPANION, 
 
 FOE 
 
 Gai<|)eii{G^s, Contractors 
 qnd Btjildetfs. 
 
 PRICE 50 CENTS. 
 
 I. P. HICKS, Publisher, 
 On? alia, Neb. 
 
 SECOND EDITION. JfrJ C 
 
 1890. y 
 
3$^' now is %z time: 
 
 The mechanic should enbrace to advance himself in 
 the knowledge of his trade. Autumn and Winter is the 
 season of study for the carpenter and builder; and on no 
 account should any young man who is learning a trade, 
 or any contractor engaged in the trade, let the time pass 
 without improving his mind and gaining more knowl- 
 edge concerning his trade than can usually be obtained in 
 the workshop or on the building. 
 
 It Is the enterprising workman that first becomes fore- 
 man then master builder. It is the studious, energetic 
 fellow, in the building trade, as in every other occupation 
 in life that "gets the cake. ?? A few hours each week 
 spent in mastering the di faculties of a trade, is better than 
 money invested, and is sure to bring in the very best of 
 returns, 50 cents invested in a copy of "The Builders' 
 Guide," will save you time and mistakes in estimating, 
 and is worth many times its cost. 
 
 Address, I. I\ HICKS, 
 
 P. O. Box 407, Omaha, Xeb. 
 
 THE STEEL SQUARE AND ITS USES. 
 
 ?"ot one carpenter in 500 understands The Square. The 
 iiis.rucl!oii tl.is book gives is worth £10 to any ca:penter. 
 
 jNTc\v? qiid Iinlauged I'&i^ioii. 
 
 This is the best work on the Steel Square ever publish- 
 ed, It is thorough, exhaustive, clear, and easily under- 
 stood, and everything in the book has been made so plain 
 that a boy twelve years of age, possessing ordinary intelli- 
 gence, can understand it from end to end. 
 
 The New Edition is Illustrated with over seventy-five 
 Woodcuts, showing how the Square may be used for solv- 
 ing almost every problem in the whole Art of Carpentry, 
 by simple and easy methods. 
 Handsomely bouid in cloth, with gilt title. Price, $1.00 
 
 Address, I. P. Hicks, P. O. Box 407, Omaha, Neb. 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
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 Illustrated by Over 309 Engravings. Being a Guide 
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 Being a Full and Clear Description of the Art of Build- 
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 Dog-Legged, and Winding Stairs. To which is added an 
 Illustrated Glossary of Terms used in Stair Building. 
 Designs for Newels, Balusters, Brackets, Stair Mould- 
 ings, and Sections ofHand-Rails. By Fjked. T. Hodg- 
 son. Cloth, Gilt Title, $1.00 
 
 Address, I. 1\ Hicks, 
 
 P. O. Box 407, Omaha, Neb. 
 
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THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
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 P. O. .box 407, Omaha, Neb. 
 
THE BUILDEES' GUIDE. 
 
 BUILDERS' GUIDE TO ESTIMATING. 
 
 For Carpenters, Contractors and Builders. 
 PRICE 50 CENTS. 
 
 A few years airo we conceived the idea of carrying with 
 ns a large size card, on wl icli we had printed convenient 
 rules for doing d'fferent kinds of work, and different i^ems 
 of value in making out estimate •. This card we used as 
 a reference and guide to est ma ing, adding to it f om 
 time to time sucV. items as wo tid be valuable to a carpen- 
 ter until it became so helpful to .is that we concluded to 
 publish it in book form; hoping it would prove equally 
 valuable to brother workmen. Originating in this way, 
 the book presents to ihe buildin; irade an easy, practical 
 system of estimating material and labor. Its table of pri- 
 ces alone is worth the cost of the hook to any Builder. 
 In short it is an estimator's price book worth many times 
 its cost. 
 
 HICKS' HANDY ESTIMATE BLANKS. 
 Fob Cakpexteks, Contkactoks and Builders. 
 
 50 Blanks per book price 50 cents. 
 
 The value of these "Blanks" to Builders cannot be es- 
 timated, as they are EXACTLY SUITED to just such 
 bills as they are called on to figure out eVerv day i i the 
 week. There is not a CONTRACTOR or BUILDER in 
 the country who can afford to neglect these "Blanks." 
 
 EVERY MECHANIC should have them, no matter 
 what kind of a job you are called on to figure out, Hicks' 
 Handy Estimate Blanks will help you out. 
 
 Address, I. P. HICKS, 
 
 P. O. Box 407. Omaha, Neb. 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 Index: to Contents. 
 
 — •♦•♦■ 
 
 Page. 
 Estimating 1, 17 
 
 Estimating roofs, Surface Measurents of 11 
 List of items for Estimating Lumber. ... 4 
 
 Pointers on Estimating 27 
 
 Rules for Estimating 8 
 
 Roof Framing, Hips and Valleys 36 
 
 Rafter Table.... 38 
 
 Table of Prices for Estimating Labor .... 20 
 Table of Prices for Estimating Lumber. .24 
 
TEE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 PEEFACE. 
 
 The importance of such a work as "The 
 Builders' Guide and Pocket Companion," 
 will be apparent to every one who will mere- 
 ly attempt an inspection of its contents; 
 while to any one who will give its pages a 
 few hours of careful consideration and atten- 
 tion, the convenience and usefulness of the 
 work will be assured. 
 
 From actual experience, we know, that 
 there are many things about building, which 
 if arranged for concise and ready reference 
 and put into book form ; would be a valua- 
 ble aid to the Carpenter and Contractor. 
 
 Feeling the need of this ourself, and see- 
 ing frequent inquiries in Building Journals 
 for such works, has lead us to the belief that 
 a book condensed in form, giving in an easy, 
 practical way, general items of interest and 
 value to the Carpenter and Contractor, is 
 much needed. 
 
 Feeling confident that to see this work 
 and examine it, will be to insure its entire 
 appreciation and acceptance; 
 
 I remain, Yours Ilespectfully, 
 
 I. P. Hicks. 
 
THE BUII DERS' GUIDE. 
 
 EMPLOYMENT " - 
 
 HOMES. 
 
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 THE WESTERN WORLD GUIDE AND HAND-BOOK, 
 
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 giving all th 
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 I. P. HICKS, 
 
 P. O. Box 407, Omaha, Neb. 
 
^ESTIMATING,)^ 
 
 In the correspondence columns of Car- 
 pentry and Building, we find the following 
 
 from a brother carpenter. 
 
 From J. J. M. Westerly, E.I. I wish to suggest that 
 an article on estimating would be valuable to the readers 
 of Caepektey and Building. We have a great deal 
 of estimating to do and I find that one has to be very 
 careful indeed or something will be omitted. It seems 
 to me that if a person had a list of all the parts usually- 
 employed in the construction of a building, it would be 
 a compai itively easy matter for him to look through the 
 list, and by this means see that he has included every- 
 thing Such a list would be of great value, and if the 
 list is complete the one rising it will be sure to men- 
 tion everything required. For one I should appreciate 
 such an article. 
 
 Again in Carpentry and Building we 
 find the following: 
 
 From X. Q. Hamilton, Ont. I would like to ask the 
 readers of Carpentby and Building for a co'py of 
 the shortest, most condensed, every day practical system 
 of estimating, something that can be used in just as few 
 lines as possible. 
 
 The above letters are similar to many 
 which we have seen in Carpentry and 
 
2 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 Building from time to time. It is very rea- 
 sonable to suppose that the wants of these 
 mechanics are what thousands of members 
 of the craft have long been wanting. 
 
 To make an estimate for a building, will 
 always require a careful consideration of the 
 plans and specifications, as well as a consid- 
 erable amount of figuring. Practical expe- 
 rience and personal familiarity with every 
 item that enters into the construction of a 
 building, is what every man needs in order 
 to become a good estimator; yet this is no rea- 
 son why he can not learn, or profit from the 
 experience of another. We ourselves, have 
 felt the need of a work giving in a concise 
 and easy manner, the shortest, easiest, quick- 
 est and surest way of estimating. 
 
 Some parts of a building are easily esti- 
 mated by the Square,* some by the foot, 
 and some parts are best estimated by the 
 piece. Now, when it is known what it is 
 worth to do different kinds of work by the 
 square, foot, or piece, we think the cost of la- 
 bor necessary to complete a building, may 
 be readily estimated by any person endowed 
 with an average amount of common sense 
 and ordinary intelligence. 
 
 *A square is 100 square feet. 
 
THE BUILDEKS' GUIDE. 3 
 
 In estimating material many mistakes are 
 made from omissions. This is a frequent 
 source of mistakes. A bill of material for 
 the construction of a house always requires 
 a long list of items, and it frequently hap- 
 pens that some items have been forgotten 
 and left entirely out of consideration. In 
 cases of contract work, such mistakes are ve- 
 ry detrimental to the contractor's profits. 
 They are things he did not count on, but nev- 
 ertheless he has them to buy, and as extras, 
 he always has to pay more for them than he 
 would, had he included them in his original 
 bill. Now, if a person had an itemized list 
 of every item that enters into the construc- 
 tion of a building, there is no doubt that by 
 comparing his bill with the list, mistakes 
 from omitting items would be avoided. 
 
 In a bill, there are many items of material 
 that are used for different purposes and diff- 
 erent parts of a building; hence, to make a 
 ]i it complete in every detail, it should men- 
 tion every part of a building for which an i- 
 tem is likely to be used for. In the list, the 
 principal items are printed in Capitals and 
 the different parts for which the same are us- 
 ed , are printed in small letters. 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 LIST OF ITEMS 
 
 FOU ESTIMATING LUMBEK. 
 
 SILLS. 
 
 Ride Sills. 
 End Sills. 
 Middle Sills. 
 Trimmers. 
 POSTS. 
 Main Posts. 
 Center Posts. 
 Door Posts. 
 Basement Posts. 
 GIRTS. 
 Main Girts. 
 Side Girts. 
 Tie Girts. 
 JOISTS. 
 First Floor. 
 Second Floor. 
 Third Floor. 
 Ceiling Joists. 
 Porch Joists. 
 STUDDING. 
 Side studding. 
 Gable studding. 
 Partition studding. 
 Braces. 
 Plates. 
 
 P orches. 
 
 Baywindows. 
 
 EOOF TIMBERS. 
 
 Common Rafters. 
 
 Hip Rafters. 
 
 Valley Rafters. 
 
 Jack Rafters. 
 
 Trusses. 
 
 Peiiines. 
 
 Collar Beams. 
 
 SHEATHING. 
 
 Outside Walls. 
 
 Roof Sheathing. 
 
 Gutters. 
 
 Floor Lining. 
 
 SHIPLAP. Sometimes 
 
 used for sheathing. 
 
 SHINGLES. 
 
 Dimension Shingles. 
 
 SIDING. 
 
 Beveled siding. 
 
 Cove siding. 
 
 Barn siding. 
 
 BATTEN . 
 
 7-8 Ogee Battens. 
 
 1-2 Inch Battens. 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 LIST OF ITEMS 
 
 FOK ESTIMATING LUMBER, Con. 
 
 ■»>»>»» 
 
 FURRING. 
 1x2 Inch. 
 2x2 Inch. 
 FENCING. 
 
 4 Inch. 
 6 Inch. 
 PAPER. 
 Straw Board. 
 Tarred Paper. 
 I FINISH. 
 Outside Base. 
 Bay window Finish. 
 Porch Finish. 
 Cornice. 
 Brackets. 
 Stair Risers. 
 Jamb Casings. 
 Pantry Shelves. 
 Closet Shelves, 
 li FINISH. 
 Outside Casings. 
 Corner Boards. 
 Jamb Casings. 
 Porch Finish. 
 Baywindow Finish. 
 
 Scroll Work. 
 
 Stair steps & Stringers. 
 
 Outside Steps. 
 
 2 INCH FINISH. 
 
 Door Sills. 
 
 Window Sills. 
 
 Jamb Casings. 
 
 Brackets. 
 
 Cellar Stairs. 
 
 If FINISH. 
 
 Outside Casings. 
 
 Outside Steps. 
 
 4 INCH FINISH. 
 
 Panels. 
 
 Drawer Bottoms. 
 
 FLOORING. 
 
 Main Floors. 
 
 Kitchen Floor. 
 
 Dining Room Floor. 
 
 Porch Floors. 
 
 CEILING. 
 
 Porch Ceilings. 
 
 Panels. 
 
 Wainscoting. 
 
 Lining Partitions. 
 
6 
 
 THE BUILDERS* GUIDE. 
 
 LIST OF ITEMS 
 
 FOJt ESTIMATING LUMI5EK, Con. 
 
 ■»•»•♦■ 
 
 INSIDE FINISH. 
 
 Casings. 
 Corner Blocks. 
 Plinth Blocks. 
 Base. 
 
 Stair Bail 
 Newel Posts. 
 Balusters. 
 MOULDING. 
 Bed Moulding. 
 Crown Moulding. 
 Panel Moulding. 
 Base Moulding. 
 Cove Moulding. 
 Quarter Round. 
 | Bound. 
 Door Stops. 
 Window Stops. 
 Parting Stops. 
 Wainscoting Cap. 
 
 Window Stools. 
 Water Table. 
 Thresholds. 
 DOORS. 
 Front Doors. 
 Sliding Doors. 
 Closet Doors. 
 Cupboard Doors. 
 Cellar Doors. 
 WINDOWS. 
 Bay windows. 
 Pantry Windows. 
 Cellar Windows. 
 Transoms. 
 Art Glass. 
 Plate Glass. 
 BLINDS. 
 Outside Blinds. 
 Inside Blinds. 
 Corner Beads. 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 7 
 
 WHAT IT TAKES. 
 
 Jamb Casings for windows |- finish . . 10 ft 
 
 a a a a -M a 1 9 
 
 doors I finish . . 10 
 " 1| " > . . . 12 
 " U « .... 15 
 
 << cc <« 
 
 a (( a 
 
 c< a a 
 
 " 2 inch finish 20 ' 
 Outside Casings for windows | finish 8 ' 
 
 doors | " 10 < 
 
 Inside Window Casings lineal measure 20 ' 
 " Door Casings, one side, lineal . . 18 ' 
 " " " two sides, lineal . .36*' * 
 
 Band Moulding window frames 16 ' 
 
 " " door frames, one side 18 ' 
 
 " two sides 36 \ 
 
 Molding outside caps of frames 4' 
 
 Sills for windows per frame 3 \ ' 
 
 " " doors " " . . . * 4 ' 
 
 Window Steps " " 12 to 18 ' 
 
 Parting " " ".. 12 to 18 ' 
 
 Door . ... " « " 16 to 18 ' 
 
 Porch columns 24 to 30 ' 
 
 Brackets 4 to 6 ' 
 
 Horses and treads for stairs 1J finish 110 • 
 For risers | finish 70 ' 
 
8 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 l^qles foi< Estimating. 
 
 To 3 inch flooring add ^ for the matching. 
 
 a a 1„g a a 
 
 ceiling " \ " " 
 
 a tt 1_g a it 
 
 shiplap " 1-6 " 
 
 " 4 
 " 6 
 " 4 
 " 6 
 " 8 
 "10 
 
 a a 1 a * a 
 
 To 6 inch beveled siding, add 1-6 for the 
 lap and make no deduction for openings, for 
 in general, the waste in cutting will equal 
 the amount gained by openings. 
 
 In estimating sheathing for roofs, make 
 no allowance for spreading the boards. Cal- 
 culate the same as you would to sheathe a 
 roof close, for what is gained in spreading 
 the boards is generally lost in the cutting. 
 The boards should never be placed more 
 than 2 inches apart for a good roof. If a roof 
 is to be sheathed close then add £ for waste 
 in cutting. Sheathing for gutters is an item 
 often forgotten. It should be estimated from 
 1 to 2 feet wide the length of the gutters. 
 This often amounts to several hundred feet 
 on large jobs. Sheathing is one of the items 
 which carpenters usually fall short of. The 
 
THE BUILDEKS' GUIDE. 9 
 
 reason is obvious, it being one of the cheap- 
 est kinds of material, it is used for many 
 purposes the carpenter does not count on. 
 Wherever a board is wanted for one purpose 
 or another, if a sheathing board will answer, 
 it is taken; and several hundred feet are 
 usually used in building scaffolds. Most of 
 this is wasted by being nailed, sawed, and 
 split up. It is safe to say, that in estima- 
 ting sheathing, 1-5 should be added to the 
 amount. 
 
 In estimating shingles, allow 9 to the 
 square foot when laid 4§ inches to the weath- 
 er, and 8 to the foot when laid 5 inches to 
 the weather. 
 
 Common shingles are estimated to average 
 4 inches wide, and are put up 250 in a bunch, 
 4 bunches to the thousand. Dimension shin- 
 gles are usually 5 or 6 inches wide, and are 
 put up 150 to 180 in a bunch, 4 bunches are 
 counted a thousand. In reality there is not 
 a thousand shingles, but being wider than 
 the average of common shingles, they are 
 counted the same. 
 
 There is more waste in laying dimension 
 shingles than the common ones. J should 
 be allowed for the waste in laying dimension 
 shingles. 
 
10 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 To estimate studding for the outside walls 
 and partitions in houses, estimate them 12 
 inches from centers, then, when they are set 
 the usual distance, 16 inches from centers, 
 there w T ill be enough for all necessary doub- 
 ling around doors, windows and corners. 
 
 We prefer this rule for the following rea- 
 sons. 
 
 FipsT. Because it is easier to count the 
 studding 1 2 inches from centers than 16 in- 
 ches, as the number of feet in length of an 
 outside wall, or a partition, gives the num- 
 ber of studding, and is seen at once. 
 
 Second. Mistakes are less liable than in 
 estimating 16 inches from centers, and add- 
 ing for double studding, as in adding for 
 double studding, more than one half the pla- 
 ces requiring double studding will be over- 
 looked. 
 
 Some say that the plan of estimating stud- 
 ding 12 inches from centers will not hold out 
 or make up for doubling; but we are of the 
 opinion that these people leave out some 
 portion of a wall, a partition, or perhaps the 
 plates. The rule is not intended to make up 
 for things left out, it is only for making up 
 the number of double studding required 
 around doors, windows and corners. Plates 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 11 
 
 and other places requiring studding must be 
 estimated separately. 
 
 Studding is an item that the carpenters 
 usually fall short of, for the simple reason 
 that many are used in places that were over- 
 looked in the carpenter's estimate. 
 
 how to flnd the area or surface 
 
 Measurement of Hip and 
 
 Valley Eoofs. 
 
 To Find the Area of Hip Eoofs With 
 Decks. — Add the length at the eves and at 
 the deck together, multiply their sum by | 
 the length of the common rafter; the prod- 
 uct will be the area of the given side. If 
 there are two or more sides alike multiply 
 the area already found by the number of 
 sides. If the sides are unlike, then the total 
 area will be found by adding the area of 
 each side respectively. The area of the deck 
 is found by multiplying the length by the 
 width. 
 
 Example. — What is the surface measure- 
 ment of a hip roof on a building 20x24 feet, 
 allowing 1 foot each side for the projection 
 of the cornice, the size of deck to be 4x8 feet, 
 and the length of the common rafter 12 feet. 
 
12 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 Analysis. Taking the long side of the 
 building and adding 1 foot each side for the 
 cornice, we have 26 feet the length at the 
 eves, 8 feet the length at the deck, 12 feet 
 the length of the common rafter, and 2 sides 
 alike. Hence, the operation will be as fol- 
 lows: 
 
 26+8-^4 X 12x2 = 408 ft. area of 2 long sides. 
 22+4-^x12x2=312 ft. areaof 2 short sides. 
 
 4x8= 32 ft. area of deck. 
 
 408+312+32=... 752 ft. total area of roof. 
 
 To Ejnd the Area of Hip Boofs With- 
 out Decks. — Multiply \ the length at the 
 eves by the length of the common rafter; the 
 product will be the area of the given side. 
 If there are two or more sides alike multi- 
 ply the side already found by the number of 
 sides. If the sides are unlike, add the area 
 of each side respectively. 
 
 Example. — What is the surface measure- 
 ment of a hip roof on a building 24x24 feet, 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 13 
 
 allowing 1 foot each side for the projection 
 of the cornice, and the length of the common 
 rafter to be 15 feet. 
 
 Analysis. — Adding 1 foot each side for the 
 cornice we have 26 feet the length at the 
 eves, the length of the common rafter 15 feet, 
 and 4 sides alike. 
 
 Operation.— 26-^x15x4=780 feet the 
 total area of the roof. 
 
 To Find the Area of Boofs with three 
 or More Gables. — Add the length at the 
 eves and ridge together, and multiply \ their 
 sum by the length of the common rafter. The 
 product will be the area of the given side. 
 If the sides are alike multiply the area of the 
 side already found by the number of sides. 
 If the sides are unlike add the area of each 
 side respectively. 
 
 Example. — What is the area of a gable 
 roof on a building 16x24 feet with a wing 
 16x12 feet, allowing 1 foot for the projection 
 of the cornice and the length of the common 
 rafter to be 12 feet. 
 
14 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 Analysis. — By the conditions of tlio ex- 
 ample it will be seen that the two sides on 
 the main roof are unlike, and the two sides 
 of the wing are alike. Hence the operation 
 will be as follows: 
 26x12 = 312 ft,, area of one side. 
 26+9-^x12 = 210 ft., area of the other side. 
 13+21^^x12x2=408 ft., area of both sides 
 of the wing. 
 
 Then, 312+210+408=930 feet, total area 
 of the roof. 
 
 We will now take a more complicated roof 
 and find the area, to show the reader an ex- 
 ample in the surface measurements of com- 
 plicated roofs. 
 
 Example. — What w T ill be the area of a ga- 
 ble roof of ^ pitch, on a building the main 
 part of which is 20x38 feet, with right wing 
 16x14 feet, left wing 12x16 feet, and allowing 
 15 inches for the projection of the cornice. 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 15 
 
 Analysis. — The first step will be to estab- 
 lish the necessary lengths of rafters and roofs 
 from which to figure. 
 Length of rafter on main roof, 15 ft. 5 in. 
 Length of roof, 40 ft. 6 in. 
 Length of rafter on right wing, 12 ft. 7 in. 
 Length of roof at the eves, 15 ft. 3 in. 
 Length of roof at the ridge, 23 ft. 3 in. 
 Length of rafter on left wing, 9 ft. 9 in. 
 Length of roof at the eves, 1 7 ft. 3 in. 
 Length of roof at the ridge, 23 ft. 3 in. 
 
 Next, multiplying the length of the main 
 roof by the length of rafter, and this product 
 by 2, we hare; 40 ft. 6 in. X 15 ft. 5 in. X 2=12 
 48 ft. 9 in. total area of the main roof. Now, 
 a portion of the main roof will be covered by 
 the roof of the wings joining it; hence, the 
 amount covered by the wings must be de- 
 
16 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 To find this amount, multiply \ the width 
 of the wing by the length of the wing rafter. 
 
 Taking the right wing, we have 16-f-£xl2 
 ft. 7 in. =100 ft. Sin. the amount of main 
 roof covered by roof of right wing. 
 
 Taking the left wing, we have 12 -s-JX Oft. 
 9 in. =58 ft. 6 in. the amount of inain roof 
 covered by roof of left wing. 
 
 Hence, 1243 ft. 9 in. - 100 ft. 8 in. - 58 ft. 6 
 in. = 1089 ft. 7 in. actual area of main roof to 
 be covered. 
 
 Next, take the right wing, 15 ft. 3 in. +23 
 ft. 3 in. -H.X 12 ft. 7 in. x 2 = 481 ft. 6 in. total 
 area of right wing roof. 
 
 Next, take the left wing, 17 ft. 3 in. +23 ft. 
 3 in. ~\ X 9 ft. 9 in. X 2 = 394 ft. 1 1 in. total area 
 of left wing roof. 
 
 Then, 10S9 ft. 7in.+484ft. 6 in. +394 ft. 
 11 in. = 1969 ft total area of the roof. 
 
 To Find the Area of a Gable. — Multiply 
 J the width by the rise above the level of the 
 plates. 
 
 Example. — What is the area of a gable 24 
 feet wide, and 8 feet rise. 
 
 Operation.— 24-r-Jx8= 96 feet area of 
 gable. 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 17 
 
 To show another point in estimating, we 
 will refer our readers to a letter and its an- 
 swer in the October number of Carpentry 
 and Building 18S9. 
 
 From J. A. A. — Being a reader of Carpentry axd 
 Building 1 desire to a^k a question, the answer to 
 which will be of some advantage to me. I am a carpenter 
 and desire to learn the ait of estimating ordinary build- 
 ings. I have no experience in figures, hut am aware 
 r.hat different theories are held by different wen concern- 
 ing this work. My idea is to figure materials and then 
 study how long it would take to put the woik in place. 
 i am advised by some that the proper way is to figure on 
 cei tain percentages for labor. Still other contractors 
 have a list stating how much is considered a day's work 
 for a man and figure therefrom. Now, I cannot under- 
 stand either of these plans and would be much obliged 
 for some information on this point. 
 
 Note. — We think our correspondent's idea is much 
 the best of the different plans suggested. It is compari- 
 tively easy to asertain the materials necessary to build a 
 given structure, but how much labor is required to put 
 the structure in place depends upon various contingen- 
 cies. It will be influenced first by the character of the 
 workmen employed: next by the skill with which the 
 woik has been planned, so far as features of construction 
 are concerned, and last, but not least, upon the intelli- 
 gence of the management under which the men work 
 day by day. Nov,', what our correspondent wants to 
 know is not what others can do, but what he can do him- 
 self. We would advise him by ail means to follow his 
 own ideas and not be lead into the quicksand of guess- 
 woi k or of reliance upon percentages. 
 
 From the above note and others which we 
 
18 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 have frequently seen in Carpentry and 
 Building, one is almost lead to believe that 
 there is no way of estimating the cost of la- 
 bor required to build a certain structure, with 
 any certainty of accuracy, without personal 
 knowledge, and practical experience in every 
 detail of the business. This is all very true, 
 practical experience is necessary for accu- 
 rate estimating; yet, as to obtaining the de- 
 sired information, or the best way of ob- 
 taining the necessary experience which many 
 of the correspondents are clamoring for, 
 Carpentry and Building fails to throw ve- 
 ry much light upon the subject. We agree 
 that no reliance can be placed upon percen- 
 tages, as the cost of material does not usual- 
 ly have anything to do with the cost of labor. 
 Carpentry and Building says: "Now, what 
 our correspondent wants to know is not what 
 others can do, but what he can do himself." 
 Here is where we differ, for no man can be 
 very much of a contractor and do all of his 
 own work, in fact, most contractors are al- 
 most entirely dependent upon others to do 
 their w r ork; therefore, it is necessary that 
 they should know what others can do, and be 
 able to judge of an average day's work. To 
 have a list showing the average day's work 
 
THE BUILDEBS' GUIDE. 19 
 
 of all kinds, and to figure therefrom is per- 
 fectly right, and if the list is complete, the 
 one using it will obtain as satisfactory re- 
 sults as can be obtained in any way. 
 
 It is true that some men will do much more 
 work in a day than others, but estimates 
 should never be made from a big day's work, 
 but an average fair day's work. If an esti- 
 mate cannot be made from what is known to 
 be an average day's work, then there is no 
 other alternative than a guess based upon 
 the experience and judgment of the contract- 
 or; and a conclusion is generally drawn in 
 this way; Mr. A's job cost so much— Mr. 
 B's job, perhaps, is different in size, shape, 
 and style, but I guess it can be built for so 
 much. — Of all the ways of estimating, a 
 well prepared list to figure from, is the easi- 
 est, quickest and surest. 
 
 Accordingly we have prepared a list show- 
 ing the average day's work, rate per square, 
 foot, or piece, with columns in which to en- 
 ter your own rate and average. 
 
 There can be no doubt whatever, that the 
 men who will keep a record of the time it 
 takes to do different kinds of work by the 
 
 square, foot, or piece, and enter their rate 
 and average in the table, they will soon have 
 something that will be very much to their 
 advantage in estimating. 
 
20 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 TABLE OF PRICES 
 
 FUU ESTIMATING LABOR. 
 
 Different Evimls 
 of Work. 
 
 ■— 
 
 * 
 
 fa 
 
 
 B 
 
 :/ 
 x 
 
 
 S 
 
 G 
 
 x 
 
 
 
 z 
 
 = 
 
 
 .» 
 
 _ 
 
 ¥ 
 
 / 
 
 r 
 
 S 
 
 [J 1 
 
 
 I* 
 
 X 
 
 - 
 
 /: 
 
 i^ 
 
 «* 
 
 Your own 
 liate. 
 
 Framing floors 
 
 in houses. 5 
 Framing floors 
 
 in barns. 4 
 Framing outside 
 
 Mails of houses. G 
 Framing outside 
 
 walls of barns. ' 4 
 Framing and 
 
 setting partitions. G 
 
 Framing ceilings 7 
 
 Framing plain roof*. . . 
 
 Framing hip and 
 
 valley roofs. 
 Sheathing sides with 
 
 common sheathing. 8 
 Sheathing sides with 
 
 b inch shiplap. 7 
 Sheathing sides with 
 
 b* inch flooring, i 6 
 Sheathing roofs with 
 
 common sheathing. I 8 
 Sheathing roofs with 
 
 8 inch shiplap. 
 Sheathing roofs wnh 
 
 o* inch flooring, j 5 
 
 Shinglhur with 
 
 $ .70 
 .00 
 .90 
 .'JO 
 .00 
 .50 
 .CO 
 l.*20 
 
 common shingles. - 1 
 
 Shingling wnh 
 
 d.me lSion shingles, 
 Siding with G inch 
 
 beveled siding. I 3 ]._0 
 
 .50 
 .CO 
 .45 
 .00 
 .70 
 1.4H 
 1.75 
 
THE BUILDEBS' GUIDE. 21 
 
 TABLE OF PRICES 
 
 FOR ESTIMATING LABOK, Continued. 
 
 Different Kinds 
 of Work. 
 
 ■g'jj 
 
 c c 
 fc or 
 
 u 
 
 5 £ 
 Z to 
 
 Your own 
 Kate. 
 
 Siding, 6 inch beveled, 
 
 using paper. 
 Siding with 6* inch 
 
 cove siding. 
 
 9 1 
 
 z 2 
 
 Z 2 
 
 2 
 
 i 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 ^2 
 
 5 
 4 
 2 
 
 4 
 3 
 4 
 
 $1.40 
 ,1.40 
 1.75 
 
 .60 
 .90 
 .60 
 .80 
 .70 
 .90 
 
 
 | 
 
 Siding, 6 inch cove, 
 
 using paper. 
 
 Siding with 12 inch 
 
 barn boards. 
 
 | 
 
 | 
 
 Siding, 12 inch barn 
 hoards anil battened. 
 
 | 
 
 Laying floor witli 
 
 6 inch pine flooring. 
 Laying floor with 
 
 4 inch pine flooring. 
 Laying floor with 
 
 6 inch hard wood. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Laying floor with 
 
 4 inch hard wood. 
 
 1 
 
 Laying floor and 
 
 smoothing off. 
 
 1.75 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 Ceiling with 
 
 6 inch pine ceiling. 
 
 .90 
 1.20 
 
 | 
 
 Ceiling wit] 
 
 4 inch pine ceiling. 
 
 | 
 
 Plain wainscoting ..... 
 
 .90 
 
 | 
 
 
 
 
22 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 TABLE OF PRICES 
 
 FOK ESTIMATING LAISOli, Continued. 
 
 Different Kinds 
 of Work. 
 
 <M ■$. 
 
 - . 
 
 ft B 
 
 Si 
 
 5 * 
 
 *s 
 
 .2 £■ 
 
 -. > 
 
 
 ■* 
 
 \* < 
 
 Making plain 
 
 window frames. 
 Making plain 
 
 door irames. 
 Making 
 
 Transom frames. 
 
 Setting frames 
 
 Hanging Blinds before 
 
 frames are set, per win. 
 Hanging Blinds after 
 frames are set, per win. 
 Hanging inside Blinds, 
 
 per window. 
 Fitting Sash in 
 
 frames, per window. 
 Hanging Sash with 
 weights, per window. 
 
 Hanging Transoms. . 
 
 Casing Windows 
 
 Casing Doors, 
 
 one side. 
 Casing Doors, 
 
 both sides. 
 Casing Transom 
 
 Frames, one side. 
 Casing Transom 
 
 Frames, both sides. 
 Cutt ng in 
 
 Window Stops. 
 Cutting in 
 
 Door Stops. 
 
 14 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 18 
 14 
 10 
 12 
 jG 
 
 8 
 12 
 
 6 
 40 
 
 Your own 
 Kate. 
 
 $1.20 
 .00 
 
 1.20 
 .25 
 
 .25 
 .45 
 
 .70 
 .20 
 ,25 
 
 35 
 .30 
 ,22 
 ,44 
 .CO 
 .CO 
 .09 
 .12 
 
 .25' ' 
 
 ,oo ••«.. 
 
 1 I 
 .so 
 
 J i 
 
 J 1 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 23 
 
 TABLE OF PRICES 
 
 FOB KSTI31ATING LABOR, Continued. 
 
 Different Kinds 
 of Work. 
 
 
 9 . 
 
 & 9) 
 
 * i 
 
 55 - 
 
 I 1 
 
 Your own 
 Kate. 
 
 Band Moulding 
 
 Frames, one side. 
 
 30 
 15 
 24 
 20 
 20 
 36 
 14 
 
 $ .12 
 
 .24 
 .15 
 
 ! 
 
 Band Moulding 
 
 Frames, two sides. 
 
 | 
 
 Putting down 
 
 Thresholds. 
 
 
 
 Fitting Doors 
 
 .18 
 .18 
 .10 
 
 .25 
 
 
 
 Bangui 0, Doors 
 
 
 
 Putting on 
 
 Rim Locks. 
 
 
 
 Putting on 
 
 Mortice Locks. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Different kinds of 
 Work per ft. 
 
 4a 
 
 • 
 
 ft 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Your own 
 Kate. 
 
 Putting down Base 
 
 and Quarter Round. 
 Putting on 
 
 Base Moulding:. 
 
 120 
 
 240 
 
 180 
 
 24 
 
 50 
 
 70 
 
 .03 
 .1* 
 
 .02 
 .15 
 .07 
 .05 
 
 
 
 
 
 Cap and Moulding 
 
 for Wainscoting-. 
 
 
 
 Putting up Cornice .... 
 Making Gutters 
 
 in Cornice. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Putting up 
 
 Corner Casings. 
 
 
 
24 
 
 THE BUILDERS' GUiD 
 
 price: ust of lumber. 
 
 The Prices in this Table are to he filled out 1*.> Carpen- 
 ters to suit the Locality In which they live. 
 
 Kind of Material. 
 
 1st. 
 Grade 
 
 2nd. 
 
 1. 
 
 (jiude. \ Grade. 
 
 Dimension Lumber, . . 
 
 Sheathing, 
 
 Fencing, 
 
 Cove Siding, 
 
 Beveled Siding, 
 
 Shiplap, 8 inch, 
 
 Barn Siding, 12 inch, ., 
 
 Battens, Ogee, , 
 
 Battens, ^ inch, 
 
 Shingles, Pine, , 
 
 Shingles, Redwood, . . . 
 Flooring, 6 in. Soft P., . 
 Flooring, 4 in. Soft P.,. 
 Flooring, 6 in. Hard P., . 
 Flooring, 4 in. Hard P., . 
 Flooring, 4 in, Oak, . . . 
 Flooring 4 in. Maple, . . 
 | Ceiling, 4 in. Soft P., . 
 g Ceiling, 4 in. Hard P. v 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 25 
 
 PRICE LIST Of LUMBER 
 
 CONTINUED. 
 
 Kjxd of Material. 
 
 1st. 
 Grade. 
 
 2nd. 
 Grade. 
 
 3rd. 
 
 Grade. 
 
 Pine Finish, § 
 
 Pine Finish, 1^ 
 
 Oak Finish, | 
 
 Chestnut Finish, 
 
 Black Walnut Finish, 
 
 Poplar Finish, 
 
 Base, 8 inch 
 
 Base, 10 inch 
 
 Casings, 5 inch 
 
 Plinth Blocks, 
 
 Rosette Blocks, 
 
 Doors, 2.6x6.6xl§ 
 
 Doors, 2.8xG.Sxl§.... 
 
 Doors, 3x7xl£ 
 
 Sash Doors, 
 
 Windows, 12x32, 4 It.. 
 Blinds, 12x32, 4 It . . . 
 Windows, 24x34, 2 It., 
 Blinds, 24x34, 2 It..., 
 
26 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 PRICE: U3T OF UUM0ER 
 
 CONTINUED. 
 
 Kind of Material. 
 
 Size and Prices. 
 
 Crown Moulding, 
 Bed Moulding,.. 
 Base Moulding, . . 
 Band Moulding,. 
 Panel Moulding,. 
 Cove Moulding, . . 
 
 Door Stops, 
 
 Window Stops, . . 
 Parting Stops, . . . 
 Quarter Bound, . 
 
 | Bound, 
 
 Thresholds, 
 
 Water-table, 
 
 Wainscoting Cap, 
 Window Stools, . . 
 Corner Beads, . . . 
 
THE BUJLDEKS' GUIDE. 27 
 
 WHAT IS IT WORTH? 
 
 POINTEKS ON ESTIMATING. 
 
 As we have said before, we do not believe 
 there can be a better, easier and safer way of 
 estimating than the list system with its aver- 
 age day's work and rate per square, foot or 
 piece. It is true there is seme margin 
 of differences as to the amount of time re- 
 quired to do any given piece of work. The 
 average of that time is what is wanted as a 
 standard of estimating. Our Table of Pri- 
 ces has been arranged from a record kept of 
 work in actual experience in doing work, and 
 is so arranged that every mechanic can, by 
 filling out the Wank columns with his own 
 average, establish rates to suit himself or a- 
 ny giwn neighborhood. 
 
 The Table of Prices was made on a basis 
 of $3.50 per day, and 10 hours for a day's 
 work. If an estimate is wanted for 9 hours, 
 add 1 tenth to the price, if for 8 hours, add 
 1 fifth. The prices can be easily made in 
 the blank columns for any rate per hour and 
 any number of hours per day. 
 
28 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 While the Table shows the average c;a 's 
 work with the rate per square, foot, or piecej 
 for nearly all kinds of work; yet we think it 
 proper to show how, and why variations 
 should be made. Also, how to make short 
 cuts by combinations. 
 
 What is it worth? Framing and placing 
 joists in position per square, $ .70 to $ .90 
 Laying floor per square, 60 to 1.75 
 
 Franp'f" and laying, 1.30 to 2.60 
 
 The ..ridging of joists should be estima- 
 ted at from 5 to 10 cents per joist for each 
 row of bridging. 
 
 Double Floors. — Where one floor is laid 
 over another, it is worth \ more to lay the 
 second floor than the first. Thus, if it is 
 worth 60 cents per square, to lay the first 
 floor, it is worth 75 cents per square for the 
 second, or §1.35 per square for both. 
 
 Framing floors for brick buildings may be 
 estimated at the same rate as for frame, 
 while there is less framing, more time is re- 
 quired to place the joists in position; thus, 
 making the labor about equal. 
 
 As a building progresses in hight, more 
 time is required to place joists in position; 
 hence. 10 per cent should be added to each 
 succeeding story after the first 
 
THE BU1LDEBS' GUIDE. 29 
 
 What is it worth? To Frame and raise a 
 
 building, per square, $ .60 to $ .90 
 
 Sheathing same per square, ... ,45 to .60 
 Siding same per square, 1.20 to 1.75 
 
 Total T25^to~^25 
 
 Thus, the outside walls of a house may be 
 estimated at $2.25 to $3.25 per square. 
 
 Framing should include raising. Sheath- 
 ing and Siding should be estimated suffi- 
 ciently high to cover the cost of building 
 scaffolds. It is worth i more to sheathe a 
 building inside than outside; and twice as 
 much to sheathe it diagonally. 
 
 Siding is subject to large variations as a 
 man can side four times as fast in some pla- 
 ces as he can in others. The amount an av- 
 erage workman will put on in a day, depends 
 upon the number, size and shape of the ope- 
 nings he has to side around, the hight of the 
 building, and the amount of scaffolding he 
 has to do. Difficult places to side can be 
 readily seen on a building or a plan, and 
 should be estimated at a higher rate than is 
 customary for such work. 
 
 We have known men to put on siding for 60 
 cents a square. Not one man in ten can 
 make anything like respectable wages at this 
 price, even on the plainest kind of work and 
 
30 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 under the most favorable circumstau ces. 
 
 The average is not more lhan 3 squares 
 per day, which amounts to $1.80 per day, 
 and there are chances that he would not do 
 as well. 
 
 "What is it worth? 
 
 Framing roofs per square, $ .60 to $1.20 
 
 Sheathing roofs per square,. . . .45 to .70 
 Shingling roofs per square, ... 1.25 to 1.75 
 
 Total 2.30 to 3.65 
 
 Thus, to frame, sheathe and shingle a roof, 
 it is wc rth from $2.30 to $3.65 per square. 
 Every hip or valley in a roof is worth from 
 >\ 75 to $1.50 L^zh, for sheathing and shin- 
 gling. 
 
 The shingling of belt courses and gables 
 with dimension shingles, is worth from $2.00 
 to f4.r0 per square, according to the windows 
 and difficult places the shingler has to con- 
 te a\ with. 
 
 AYhat is it worth? To make and finish a 
 window mice all ccmjlele in a residence, is 
 worth from $2.50 to $25.00 according to size 
 and style of finish. Plain frames with soft 
 wood finish will average about $2.70 per 
 frame; while large transom frames, twin- 
 windows etc., finished in hard wood, may be 
 worth up to $25.00 and even more. 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 31 
 
 To lit, hang and lock a common door, us- 
 ing 1 pair of loose pin butts and a common 
 mortice lock, is worth 60 cents. The average 
 day's work is about 6 doors per day. If the 
 doors are large and require 8 butts to a door, 
 it is worth 75 cents per door. Front doors 
 having complicated locks with night keys 
 etc., are worth $1.50 to $2.00 per door. 
 
 Sliding Doors. — 
 Setting partitions and putting up track, $7.00 
 
 Setting jambs, 1.00 
 
 Casing door frame, 1.00 
 
 Band moulding frame, 25 
 
 Hanging doors and putting on lock, 3.50 
 
 Threshold and stops, 25 
 
 Total, $13.00 
 
 Thus, Sliding doors are worth $13 per set, 
 and may vary according to size and style of 
 finish, to $30. 
 
 Folding Doors. — 
 To fit, hang, lock, and put flush bolts, on 
 folding doors is worth $1.75 to $3.50 per 
 set. 
 
 Wainscoting. — 
 Plain wainscoting is worth about 90 cents 
 per square, and the cap should be estimated 
 by the foot; extra, according to the style of 
 
32 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 What is it worth? It should be remem- 
 bered that a fine hardwood finish is worth 
 twice and three times as much as a common 
 soft pine finish. 
 
 Estimating Windows. — 
 
 Making frame, $1.20 
 
 Hanging blinds, 25 
 
 Setting frame in building, 25 
 
 Fitting sash, 20 
 
 Hanging sash with weights, 25 
 
 Casing window, 30 
 
 Band moulding frame, 12 
 
 Cutting in stops, 09 
 
 Total, ' $2.66 
 
 Estimating Doors. — 
 
 Making plain frame, $ .90 
 
 Setting frame in building, 25 
 
 Casing frame, 44 
 
 Band moulding frame, .24 
 
 Fitting and hanging door, 36 
 
 Putting on mortice lock, 25 
 
 Cutting in thresholds, 15 
 
 Cutting in stops, 12 
 
 Total, $2.71 
 
 Thus it is worth $2.71 per frame to make 
 and finish common soft pine door frames 
 complete in a building. 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 83 
 
 finish. Paneled wainscoting is often worth 
 twice and three times as much as plain work. 
 Sines. — 
 
 To finish a kitchen sink in the plainest 
 style, is worth 82; and some styles finished 
 in hard wood, are worth up to 810. 
 Bath Booms. — 
 
 A bath room having in connection a water- 
 closet ai\d wash-bow], finished in the plain- 
 est style, willtake a good workman two days, 
 and is wciik vV. 
 
 An inexpreienced workman in this kind of 
 work, will require about three clays to com- 
 plete the same. 
 
 Some styles of hard wood finish will re- 
 quire from 4 to 6 days' work, and is worth 
 from $14 to $21. 
 Pantries. — 
 
 The shelving and finishing of a pantry in 
 the plainest style, is worth from 83 to 85. 
 
 Pantries with flour chests, spice drawers, 
 and numerous other things, shelves enclosed 
 with glass panel doors; all elegantly fitted 
 up, are worth from $25 to 840. 
 Stairs. — 
 
 The cheapest kind of cellar stairs are worth 
 from $2 to $5. The plainest kind of box 
 stairs are worth from $8 to $12 per flight. 
 
34 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 Plain open stairs with hand rail, newel 
 post, and balusters, are worth from 820 to 
 $35. Stairs and Stair Cases finished in hard 
 wood, will vary from $50 to 8150. It is fre- 
 quently worth from $10 to $20 to set the new- 
 el posts and put up the rail. 
 Cornice. — 
 
 Cornice may be estimated by the lineal 
 foot in the following manner. A cornice is 
 composed of several members, the most com- 
 mon kind is the five member cornice, which 
 consists of a plancer, fascia, frieze, crown 
 and bed moulding. It may be estimated at 
 15 cents per foot. If a cornice has more thar> 
 five members, add from 2 to 3 cents per foot 
 for each additional member. If there are 
 less than five members, a similar deduction 
 may be made. If a cornice has brackets, it 
 will be necessary to add a sufficient amount 
 to cover the cost of putting them up. 
 Gutters. — 
 
 These are variously formed, and are worth 
 from 4 to 10 cents per lineal foot. A stand- 
 ing gutter is worth from 4 to 6 cents per foot. 
 A flush gutter, or one sunk in a roof, is worth 
 from 6 to 10 cents per foot. 
 Porches. — 
 
 Porches may sometimes be estimated by 
 
THE BUILDEBS' GUIDE. 35 
 
 the lineal foot, at from $2 to $4 per foot. 
 
 This plan, however, is not the best meth- 
 od of estimating porches; its principal ad- 
 vantage, is the simple manner of estimating. 
 
 The most common styles of porches may 
 be estimated as above, with quite satisfac- 
 tory results. The best and most accurate 
 way, however, is to estimate the frame work, 
 flooring, ceiling, and roofing by the square; 
 the cornice, gutters, and lattice work by the 
 foot; the steps, columns, brackets and orna- 
 mental work by the piece. After suming 
 up the various parts, the result may be ta- 
 ken as the most reliable estimate. 
 
36 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 ROOF FRAMING, 
 
 111PS AND VALLEYS. 
 
 Tlie subject of roof framing, particularly 
 that of hips and valleys, is one which thor- 
 oughly taxes the skill mid ingenuity of the 
 builders. Many ingenious and useful dia- 
 grams have been published from time to 
 time, showing how to find the lengths and 
 bevels of hips, valleys and jacks; each plan 
 claiming some special advantage over anoth- 
 er. Every enterprising mechanic has a de- 
 sire to learn the simplest method of obtaining 
 certain results. 
 
 The system which we shall use in this ar- 
 ticle, is one by which the lengths of common 
 rafters, hips, valleys and jacks, with all their 
 different bevels, on roofs of any pitch, may 
 be easily found without the use of drawings; 
 and is so simple that anyone can understand 
 it and find the lengths aad cuts in less time 
 than it -takes to describe the operation. 
 
 Our system consists of a table from which 
 the lengths and cuts of any rafter may be 
 determined at once. 
 
THE BUILDEBS' GUIDE. 37 
 
 Explanation of the table. — 
 
 Column 1 shows the pitch of roofs, in the 
 number of inches rise to the foot run. Col- 
 umn 2 shows the length of common rafter to 
 a foot run. Column 3 shows the length of 
 a hip or valley corresponding to a foot run 
 of the common rafter. Column 4 shows what 
 figures to take on the Square for the top and 
 bottom cuts of the common rafter, which is 
 always 12 for the bottom cut, and the num- 
 ber of inches the common rafter rises to a 
 foot run for the top cut. Column 5 shows 
 w T hat figures to take on the Square for the 
 top and bottom cuts of a corresponding hip 
 or valley, which is always 17 for the bottom 
 cut, and the number of inches the common 
 rafter rises to a foot run for the top cut. 
 Column 6 shows what figures to take on the 
 Square, to make the top bevel of the jack raf- 
 ters, for which, always take 12 on the tongue 
 of a square; and the length of the common 
 rafter for a foot run on the blade. The blade 
 gives the cut. The plumb cut, or down bev- 
 el is always the same as that of the common 
 
 rafter. 
 
 To avoid a complication of fractions the figures given 
 in columns 2 and 3 are given in feet and decimals. To 
 find the lengths of common rafters, hips, valleys and 
 jacks, it is only necessary to multiply the run by the fig- 
 ures given, corresponding to the pitch wanted. 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 RAFTER TABLE 
 
 uD Oi bv O 
 
 o 
 
 00 
 
 ^3 
 
 05 5 
 
 Pitch of roofs. 
 
 M 
 
 M h- 1 h- 1 H- 1 
 
 OC O Ir^ CC 
 
 O O bO O 
 
 bC 
 
 on 
 
 bC 
 
 O 
 
 h- 1 
 
 Feet 
 
 1.12 
 
 Common rafter, 
 1 foot run. 
 
 l; 
 
 bC h- 1 
 
 o bo 
 
 —J CO 
 
 ^ o 
 
 h- I 
 
 h- 1 
 
 h^ 
 
 *i 
 
 en 
 
 CO 
 
 OX 
 O 
 
 C5 
 
 Corresponding 
 hips or valleys. 
 
 05 
 
 bO bO 
 
 bO 
 
 bO bC 
 
 00 en bO o o 
 
 h-» 
 
 h- 1 
 
 h-* 
 
 
 bO 
 
 bO 
 
 bO 
 
 ^T 1 
 
 $P e^ - 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 
 £fl 
 
 00 
 
 ^q 
 
 C5 
 
 " 
 
 Common 
 rafter cuts. 
 
 -q -q 
 
 £p pp 
 
 
 -<l -q 
 
 £p 2p 
 
 go- en bo o o 
 
 h^ 
 
 1— A 
 
 h-» 
 
 
 ^q 
 
 ^q 
 
 -q 
 
 >--• 
 
 ^p ^ ^p 
 
 o. 
 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 00 
 
 -q 
 
 o 
 
 
 Hip and valley 
 rafter cuts. 
 
 01 
 
 bO h-» 
 
 <l O^ wT ^ W W h 
 
 o 
 
 ^ s° ^ ?f ?? ?? 5 
 
 , , i . , ' , . . . i . CA. 
 
 LOLObCbObObObObO 
 
 Jack rafter 
 cuts. 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 39 
 
 We will now give a practical example show- 
 ing how to find the lengths of rafters by the 
 table. 
 
 Example. — What will be the lengths of 
 rafters on a building 16 feet wide, roof of 7 
 inches pitch, hipped to the center and raf- 
 ters placed 16 inches from centers? 
 
 Analysis. — The run of the rafter is | 
 the width of the building, which is 8 feet. 
 Multiplying the run by the length of rafter 
 for 1 foot run, 7 inch pitch, column 2 of the 
 table, and pointing off the product as in mul- 
 tiplication of decimals; we have the length 
 of rafter in feet, and a decimal of a foot, the 
 decimal part, must be multiplied by 12 to 
 reduce it to inches. 
 
 Operation.— 1.16 x 8=9.28 feet, 
 
 .28x12=3.36 inches. 
 
 Thus, the length of the common rafter is 
 9 feet and 3.36 inches. The .36 being a dec- 
 imal of an inch and very small, it may be 
 discarded. 
 
 The corresponding hip or valley may be 
 found as follows: 1.53x8=12.24 feet. * 
 
 .24x12=2.88 inches. 
 
 The decimal .88 being almost eqnal to an 
 inch, it is best to retain it, and call it § of an 
 inch. Thus, the length of the hip would be 
 12 feet 2| inches. 
 
40 THE BUILDEES' GUIDE. 
 
 If the rafters are placed 1G inches from 
 centers, the run of the first Jack will be 16 
 inches. Taking the same figures in the ta- 
 ble as we took to find the common rafter, and 
 multiplying by 1G inches we have as follows: 
 1.16x16=18.50 
 
 The decimal .56 -being equal to \ inch, it 
 is best to retain it; thus, the length of the 
 first jack would be 18J inches; the second, 
 twice that; the third, three times; and so on, 
 till the required number are found. 
 
 Our table covers almost every pitch of roof 
 commonly used, but suppose some pitch is 
 wanted not represented in the table; it is a 
 very easy matter to find the lengths and cuts 
 of any rafter; hip, valley, or jack, on roofs of 
 any pitch, with a square and 2 foot rule. 
 
 There are a few very simple facts, which 
 if remembered, will serve to make hip and 
 valley roof framing so plain and easily un- 
 derstood; that no one need have any difficul- 
 ty in finding the length and cut of any rafter. 
 
 The pitch of a roof is always designated 
 by the number of inches it rises to the foot 
 run; hence, the cut of a common rafter is al- 
 ways 12 for the bottom cut, and the rise of 
 the roof to the foot for the top cut. 
 
 The cut of a corresponding hip, or valley 
 
THE BUILDEKS' GUIDE. 41 
 
 of equal pitch, is always 17 for the bottom 
 cut, arid the rise of the common rafter to the 
 foot for the top cut. Thus, if 12 and 8 cuts 
 the common rafter, 17 and 8 will cut the hip 
 or valley. 
 
 The top bevel of a jack rafter is always 12 
 on the tongue of a square, and the length of 
 the common rafter for a foot run, on the 
 blade; the blade gives the cut. In other 
 words, the run of the common rafter on the 
 tongue, and the length on the blade, will al- 
 ways give the top bevel of a jack rafter. Tl e 
 plumb cut or down bevel of a jack, is always 
 the same as that of the common rafter. 
 
 To find the length of a common rafter, 
 take the run on the blade of a square, and 
 the rise on the tongue, measure across and 
 you have the length. To find the length of 
 a corresponding hip or valley, take the run 
 of the common rafter on both blade and 
 tongue, and measure across; now take the 
 figures thus obtained, on the blade, and the 
 rise of the common rafter on the tongue, and 
 measure across again, this will give the 
 length of a hip or valley. The length of a 
 jack rafter may be found in the same man- 
 ner as the common rafter, by taking the run 
 on the blade, and the rise on the tongue. 
 
42 THE BUILDEKS' GUIDF. 
 
 The lengths of hips and valleys on roofs 
 of unequal pitches, may be found in the same 
 manner by taking figures on the blade and 
 tongue of a square, which will represent the 
 different pitches. 
 
 For example, suppose a roof hips 6 feet on 
 the right side o;.' a hip, 8 feet c ;i the left side, 
 and both sides have a rise of 6 feet, how will 
 we find the lengths and bevels o? the rafters? 
 
 Let it be understood that we are work- 
 ing from a scale of 1 inch equals 1 foot. 
 
 First, take the run of the common rafter 
 on the right side of the hip, (6 inches) on 
 the blade, and the rise of the roof (6 inches) 
 on the tongue, measure across and you have 
 the length of the common rafter on the right 
 side of the hip, which is 8^ inches, equal to 
 8J feet. 6 and 6 will give the cuts. Take 
 the run of the common rafter (6 inches) on 
 the tongue, and the length, (8|- inches) on 
 the blade, for the top bevel of the jacks on 
 the right side of the hip; the blade gives the 
 cut. The plumb cut, or down bevel of the 
 jack, will be the same as that of the common 
 rafter. 
 
 Next, take the run of the common rafter 
 on the left side of the hip (8 inches) on the 
 blade, and the rise of the roof [6 inches] on 
 
THE BUILDEKS' GUIDE. 43 
 
 Hie tongue, measure across and you have the 
 length of the common rafter on the left side 
 of the hip; which is 10 inches, equal to 10 
 feet. 6 and 8 will give the cuts. Take the 
 run of the common rafter (8 inches) on the 
 tongue, and the length, ( 10 inches ) on the 
 blade, for the top bevel of the jacks on the 
 left side of the hip. The blade gives the cut, 
 
 The plumb cut, or down bevel of the jacks 
 will be the same as that of the common raf- 
 ter. 
 
 Next, to find the length of the hip, take 
 the run of the common rafter on the right 
 side of the hip (6 inches) on the tongue, 
 and the run of the common rafter on the left 
 side of the hip (8 inches) on the blade, 
 measure across and you have (10 inches)* the 
 run of the hip. Next, take the run of ihe 
 hip, [ 10 inches ] on the blade, and the rise 
 of the roof [6 inches] on the tongue, meas- 
 ure across and you have the length of the 
 hip rafter, [llf inches] equal to 11 feet 7| 
 inches. 10 and 6 will, give the cuts of the 
 hip. 
 
44 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 ROOF FRAMING, 
 
 ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 It will undoubtedly be interesting to ma- 
 ny of our readers to see the framing of hip 
 and valley roofs thoroughly illustrated; and, 
 in the simplest and plainest manner possible. 
 
 The framing of hip and valley roofs is 
 quite easy, if the principals are made plain 
 by proper diagrams. Many of the diagrams 
 which have been published in explanation of 
 hip and valley roof framing, have been to 
 complicated for practical use, especially so, 
 with new beginners in roof framing. 
 
 We will now show by means of diagrams, 
 the simplest manner possible for finding the 
 lengths and cuts in plain hips and valleys; 
 and there will be no lines crossing each oth- 
 er tending to confuse the inexperienced. 
 
 Referring to Fig. 1 of our diagrams; first 
 draw a horizontal line twice the run of the 
 common rafter, A B. From the center of 
 this line at C, erect a perpendicular line con- 
 tinuing it indefinitely. Next, set off on tlu 
 
THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 45 
 
 perpendicular line, the rise of the common 
 rafter C to D, connect D and B for the length 
 of the common rafter, A bevel set in the 
 angle at D will give the top cut, and in the 
 angle at B the bottom cut. Next, set off on 
 the perpendicular line the length of the com- 
 mon rafter, C to E, which is exactly the same 
 length as the line D B, connect E with A for 
 the length of the hip rafter. Next, space off 
 the jacks on the line A C and draw perpen- 
 dicular lines joining the hip line A E. The 
 lines J J J are the lengths of the jack raf- 
 ters and a bevel set in the angle at F, will 
 give the the bevel across the backs of the 
 same, the plumb cut or down bevel of a jack, 
 is always the same as that of the common 
 rafter. 
 
 Fig. 1 
 
46 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 Now we have shown all the lines necessa- 
 ry to be drawn, the plan shows every thing 
 but the cut of the hip rafter; and this, may 
 it be remembered is always 17 inches on the 
 blade of a square for the bottom cut, and the 
 rise of the common rafter to the foot run on 
 the tongue for the top cut. As some may 
 think a plan that does not show the cuts of a 
 hip as well as its length, is incomplete, we 
 will take the same plan and by the addition 
 of .3 more linos show every thing that can he 
 desired. Referring to figure 2 of our dia- 
 grams we would say, draw the lines the same 
 as in figure 1 then, measure off on the per- 
 pendicular line, the run of the common raf- 
 ter C to F, connect F with B and square up 
 
 G 
 
THE BUILDEKS' GUIDE. 47 
 
 from P the rise of the common rafter to G, 
 connect G and B for the length of the hip. 
 
 A bevel set in the angle at G will give ihe 
 top cut and in the angle at B the bottom cut. 
 
 It will be noticed in figure 2 that the lines 
 A E and G B, are of the same length and in 
 both cases represent the hip rafter, but show 
 it in different positions. A E shows the hip 
 m position to find the length and bevel of 
 the jacks, and G B shows the hip in position 
 to find the bevels for cutting the hip. 
 
 B£V£L FOR HIP OR VALL£Y, 
 
 A question in roof framing which some- 
 limes comes up in actual practice, is how to 
 cut the bevel on the lower end of a hip or 
 valley corresponding to a square cut on the 
 common rafter. This cut is only used in 
 cutting the ends of hip and valley rafters, 
 preparatory to nailing on the fascia and 
 crown moulding. Every carpenter knows 
 that a square cut on a hip or valley will not 
 correspond with a .square cut on the com- 
 mon ratter, and but few know how to ob- 
 tain the requird bevel. It may be obtained 
 in the following manner: Take 17 inch- 
 es on the blade of a square and one-half 
 
48 THE BUILDERS' GUIDE. 
 
 the rise of the common rafter to a foot run 
 on the tongue and the tougue gives the cut. 
 For example, suppose we have a roof of 
 one-third pitch. This is a rise of 8 inches 
 to the foot run. 8 and 12 will make the com- 
 mon rafter cuts and 17 and 4 the cut on the 
 end of the hip or valley rafter correspon- 
 ding to a square cut of the common rafter. 
 
 The diagram figure 3 shows the manner 
 of applying the square to the hip or valley. 
 
 Fig. 3.