-p'^^'' DEC 24 1900 100 >py 1 MRS.flJ.Wu&RFEL§ TAILORS RIILES ..AND.^ DIAGRAMS Copyright, 1900, by Mrs. A. J, Wuerfel. k''%/%^%/V%/%'%/%/^^/%^'V%/%/%^^'^^/^^%^'%/%/%^^/%^-%/%/%/%/%/%,1 MRS. A. J. WUERFEL'S ...TAILOR'S RULES... A.ND DIAGRAMS. INSTRUMENTS PATENTED JUNE 7th, 1887. FOR CUTTING ANY SIZE OR STYLE OF GARMENT FOR LADIES AND CHILDRHN. IT IS ABSOLUTELY FORBIDDEN TO SELL PATTERNS MADE ACCORDING TO THESE RULES. TERMS: Price of Rules, with Instruction, $20.00. FEES mUST BE PAID IN ADVANCE. ANY ONE INFRINGING ON THESE RULES, WILL BE PROSECUTED TO THE FULL EXTEND OF THE LAW MILWAUKEE, WIS. Library of Conjjr««» , IWU COPttO Ri C t l MC D DEC 24 1900 . Copyright entry JYo-/. 2-3, t^oo ^JMJfr COPY 0«^ 61 Front. . l6>^ . .lb%. •I7>2- .18 . .18/4 . .l8>2. .19 . ■ 19/4 ■ ■i9>^- .19^. • 20K - • 20}b . .21 iYa iVa 8 8 8^ 8>4 8>4 8M 9 934 9^4 9>^ 9^ DIAGRAM FIG. i ON PLATE No. i Is a full sizetl draft of front neck for ladius. By placing the rule on the draft it aids the pupil in renieniberiuf; the dilferent motions of the neck. The front of the neck is formed l)\' different motions of the sijuare to repre- sent an angle (as shown by the lines mark '• height" and "width") before the neck can be shaped. Each different size of neck is formed and sliaped in the same manner. The si:ale I which is formed near the point on the inner edge of blade C is the measuring scale for width of neck, the said scale 1 is usetl to measuie a cer- tain height of neck before the width is measured. Place the square with the blade B towards you, draw a line, then mark at incli 3 at edge of blade B the guiiie stroke for neck. For measure of neck 14 inches place the point of blade C on the stroke of neck, have the edge of blade C on the guide line, mark at figure 14 of scale I the stroke for height, turn the blade B from yon, place the point of blade C on the stroke for height with the scale I from you, mark at figure 14 of scale I the exact width of neck 14 inches, then draw a line to form an angle. At the original stroke of neck mark a '_■ inch in, mark a '4 inch in at the width of neck for fullness of chest. For size of neck place the figure 3 of scale I on the latter stroke of neck, have the edge of scale K even with the width of neck. For size of neck 14 inches mark at the edge of scale K, for the opposite subdivision inch 14, draw a line for shape of neck from subdivision inch 14 of scale K to figure 3 of scale J. For guide of the shoulder place the angle of square on the guide-stroke of neck, have the blade C even with the original guide line, draw a guide line at the edge of blade B from inch g to inch 11. To shape the shoulder place the inch 1 of shoulder scale G even with the size of neck, place tlie figure 10 of shoulder scale H on the guide-line E, mark tlie lengtli of shoulder; then draw a line.' For width of chest place the blade C on the original front-guide with inch I on the original guide-stroke of neck, mark tlie width of chest b\ the edge of blade B. For a very full bust, mark a 'j inch in at the side of neck, mark -'4 of an inch in at the original guide-stroke of neck, to give sufticient fullness For a lady with a very flat bust make very little change at the neck as there is not much fullness rei]uiretl for chest. For a child make no change as the diagram shows. DIAGRAM FIG. 2 ON PLATE No. 1 IS A FULL SIZED DRAFT OF NECK FOR C-I.D. For measure of neck 9 inches place the point of l)lade C on the stroke of neck, liave the edge of blade C on the guide line, mark at figure 10 of scale I the stroke for height, turn the blade B from you, place the point of blade C on the stroke for height, with the scale I from you, mark at figure 10 of scale I the exact widtli of neck. For size of neck place the figure i of scale J on the original stroke of neck, have the edge of scale K even with the width of neck. F"or size of neck 9 inches mark at edge of scale K for opposite subdivision-inch 9, draw a fine for shape of neck from suljdivision-inch g of scale K to figure i of scale J. Teach the plain waist iirst to the pupil as it is quickly learned. 5 DIAGRAM FIGS, i AND 2 OF PLATE NO. 2 Shows a diminutive draft of ladies' front waist with bias dart. Allow for hem, place the square 2 inches from the edg;e of paper, draw a line along the edge of blade B for original front-guide, mark at inch 3 at edge of blade B the guide-stroke for neck, place the blade B to your left with the point of blade C on the guide-stroke of neck, have the edge of blade C on the original guide-line, mark at figure 13 of scale I, place the point of blade C on the latter stroke with the scale I from you, mark at figure 13 of scale I the exact width of neck, mark a 'i inch in at the guide stroke of neck, mark a }( inch in at the width of neck, place the figure 3 of scale J on the latter stroke of neck, have the edge of scale K even with the width of neck. For size of neck 13 inches, mark at figure 7 of scale K, draw a line for shape of neck. For guide of shoulder place tlie angle of square on the guide-stroke of neck, have the blade C even with the original guide-line, draw a guide-line at blade B from inch g to inch 1 1, place the inch i of shoulder scale G even with the size of neck, place figure 7 of shoulder-scale H on the guide-line for shoulder, mark the length of slioulder, then draw a line. For guide of bust and length of waist, place the angle of square on the stroke of neck, have the edge of blade B on original front-guide, mark at both edges of bust-guide F at inch 4, mark the length of front waist. To guide the width of waist, place the angle of square on length of waist, have the blade C on original front guide, then draw a line along the edge of blade B, then draw a lower line according to the allowance for slant of waist. For width of chest, place the square up to the neck, have the blade C with the incli I on the stroke of neck, mark the width of chest by the edge of blade B. For width of Imst, place the angle of square on the two strokes of bust-guide with the blade C toward you, draw a line along the edge of blade B, mark the width of bust for front part. To shape the arms-eye, draw a line from length o[ shoulder to width of chest and to width of bust. For under-arm length, place the angle of square on stroke of bust, have blade B to slant from you, then draw a guide-line for under-arm length. To locate the darts at waist, place the angle of square on the curve stroke of waist-length, with the edge of blade B on the upper waist-guide, divide the waist measure in unequal parts, add the width for the darts, mark the first dart 1^-2 inches from the front-edge, add 2 inches for the first dart, take i inch waist from first to second dart, add ^j4 inches for second dart. For the height of darts place the blade B on the front edge, have the inch of the intended height on the stroke of waist with the blade C across the bust, locate the top of darts by the edge of blade C, if the first dart is marked at inch 3, the second dart mark at inch 6, raise the second dart a ):( inch or more. To shape the darts, take curved blade, place the point of edge L on the first stroke of lower waist-guide, draw a line to the height of dart stroke, for the opposite side of the dart turn the blade blank up and draw a line, shape the sec- ond dart in the same manner, measure the front line of second dart from the top to waist, if this be 7i_^ inches, measure the bias line of the same dart yji inches, from this latter stroke guide the waist line. Place the angle of square on the latter stroke of dart, slant the blade up to under-arm length, take the width for waist and draw a line, then draw a curved line from bust to waist, for the hip, draw a line below the waist-line. For the side jiart, place the square with the edge of blade C on the waist- guide, have the blade B to your left, draw a line for guide of side, the length of side mark at blade B the guide-stroke also for bust, for width of bust, place the angle of square on the side guide-stroke of bust, mark the remaining width of bust b}' the edge of blade B, draw a line, curve the side from bust to waist guide, place the angle of square on the stroke of side, with blade C on the waist-guide, take the remaining subdivision inches for width of waist. Place the angle of s(]uare on the guide and width of waist, have the edge of blade B even witli the stroke {or bust, mark the inider arm length at blade B. draw a line to waist, slant the side of waist to the lower waist-guide. The hip take in length according to fashion. In defining the two lines running across the waist, the upper line is for the direct waist line and indicates the lower edge of belt, while the lower line is purposely for the slant of waist according to the allowance of measure. DIAGRAM FIG. 3 OF PLATE No. 2 SHOWS HOW TO DRAW 2 UNDER-ARM PARTS FOR A STOUT LADY. Bear in mind that the measures in division table are not always satisfactory, for example, for waist measure 28 inches, in order to draw the back narrow at waist, take the inches of waist not desired for the back and add it to the under- arm parts, if this should not make it wide enough, take from the front waist- measure to make it wide enough to make 2 parts and splice it as the diagram shows. When the present instructions an: used the 2 nuder-arm parts take the place of the i under-arm part. RULES FOR BIAS DARTS. The bias cutting is managed by the side line of second dart, this is why it is called the bias dart line. The first dart should always be cut straight, take from I)- to 2 inches, take no more in width of the first dart. For a slender form take 3'2 inches in the bias dart, for a very large bust take 4 to 5 inches in the bias dart, mark the bias-line in length from the top to the waist-line with first line of same dart. Place the darts according to the witlth of chest, have the fullness of the darts to slant up to the bust, it the second dart slants up to the arm's-eye it will spoil the fit of the garment. How to divide the bust for under-arm parts, if the chest is 6 inches in width there should be 2J2 inches more in the bust from front-edge to under-arm. For bjj to 7 inches chest take 9 inches for bust, take the remainder ot the bust meas- ure in the underarm part or parts. If the bust and waist measure are wide enough make two under-arm parts. DIAGRAM FIG. i OF PLATE No. 3 SHOWS A DIMINUTIVE DRAFT OF BACK FOR LADIES. For back place the square 1)4 inch from the edge of paper, have the blade C to your left, draw a line for waist guide b\- the edge of blade C, mark at the angle of blade B the guide stroke of waist, mark the length for back to your right, this mark is also the guide for neck, draw a line for center-line of back. Take curved blade for size of neck 13 inches, place the blade with the second line N on center-line of back, have figure 13 even with the guide-stroke of neck, for the entire size of neck and guide of shoulder mark at figure g on the same edge of the blade. To continue the shoidder-guide mark at the opposite edge of blade as the line N shows. For length of shoulder place the angle of square on the stroke of neck, have the blade B also on the stroke of shoulder-guide, draw a line for length of shoulder. For width of waist plnce the square on the waist-guide, mark the subdivi- sion-inches for waist and guide of side, for length of side place the angle of square on the side of waist, have the blade B to vour right to slant slighth' from you, mark the length of side. For width of back place the angle of square on the center-line of back, have the blade B over to the length of side, connect the length of side with the width of back, to shape the arms-e)'e place the curved blade with arms-size M on shoulder length, have the figure ii of bust scale to connect with the width of back and side length, draw a line for arm's-eye, to shape the side, place the curved blade with the point of edge L on the width of back, have the edge L also on width of waist, draw a line for side. For hip have the inch 6 of blade B on center-line and waist-guide, have the blade to slant out, continue the center-line down, for width of hip place the blade C 4 inches below the waist-guide, have the angle on the center-line, mark the width of hip, place the blade B to the side, ancj continue the side line down. To splice the back for a coat back, take the inner edge of curved blade, place the point at the arms-eye, have the inner edge of blade also on the waist- line about I inch from the center-line of back, then draw a line from arms-eye to waist, below the waist draw the lines as the diagram shows for fullness of hip. If the back is to be spliced with a straight line from waist to shoulder, take the square. -* If a waist wrinkles scross the back below the neck, the shoulders of the back are too tapering, draw a square shoulder as tlie upper line of diagram shows. Should the back be too low at the back of neck it shows that the shoulders are not tapering enough. The dotted line which slants outward from the shoulder to waist shows how to draft the back for blouse waist, by adding from i to 2 inches to the width of back, and 2 to 3 inches to the waist-measure. To cut the back for princess dress, the back has to be spliced either from the arms-eye to waist or from the shoulder down to waist, this makes a center- back and a side-back. To cut the skirt part of the center-back, gore the center-edge, cut the side- edge of the same pattern straight. To cut the skirt part of side-back, gore the edge facing to the back, cut the edge facing to the front straight. RULES FOR SLEEVE. For height of cap of the different sized upper sleeves, for a sleeve 6 inches in width, take 2^2 inches up for cap, for 7 inches in width take 2}^^ inches for cap, for 8 inches in width take 3 inches for cap. To each inch more in width add a '4 inch to the height of cap. For slanting the wrist of lower sleeve, the inch i on the angle of blade B is divided into eighths for this purpose. For 2 inches in width of wrist take four eighths for a slant, to each "2 inch more in width take one-eighth more for slant. For slant of the wrist place the angle of square on the inner stroke of upper wrist, have the edge of blade B even with the stroke for bent of lower sleeve. 8 Phite Ml. JicxiM .riafeMS. ^7^/alejVo4 T^^a/c JVb J J"i^4- MEASURES FOR SLEEVE. For the outer length of sleeve have the arm bent, measure from the wrist to elbow, jiiark the length, continue to the outer curve of arms-eye and meet with side length of back. For the inner-length of sleeve hold the arm straight, measure from the inner curve of arms-eye to wrist. For width of sleeve, measure around the top of the arm, have the measure not too tight For width of elbow, have the arm bent, take the measure around the elbow; have the measure not too tight. For width of wrist, measure around the palm of the hand quite tight for a tight sleeve, have the measure loose for a loose sleeve. The top, elbow and hand measures of sleeve should be divided according to the figures in division tables. Should there be >i inch in the measure of the sleeve add it to the upper part of sleeve. MEASURES FOR TOP OF SLEEVE. Division for Entire Division for Upper Sleeve. Me.asure. Lower Sleeve. (y]-2 9 2', ■j^A lo 2>1j 8 n 3 81^ 12 VA gji 13 3>2 10 14 15 ■•■ ■ -^H ii>i 16 4>^ 12}^ 17 + '+ 13 '8 5 1/ i^ii 19 5/4 141.. 20 5/4 MEASURES FOR THE ELBOW. Division for Entire Division for Upper Sleeve. Measure. Lower Sleeve. 5H 8 ^^ 6 9 3 6% 10 3K 714 II 3^ 8 12 4 8^4 -■3 434 9>^ '4 4J4 10 15 5 10^ 16 sK 17 MEASURES FOR THE HAND. Division for Eniirk Division for Upper Si.FFVF. ; MiiAMkF. Lower Slkev.-.. 4 6 2 aYa 7 ^-yi 5% S 2>4 6 9 3 (>yi 10 2,'A DIAGRAM FIG. 2 OF PLATE No. 3 SHOWS A DIMINUTIVE DRAFT OF S'-EEVE FOR LADIES. Give attention to the riyiit bend of sleeve, draw a straight line for original guide, have the guide towards you. Place the square on the line have the angle to your left, have 3 to 4 inches space for slant of wrist. For inner length of upper sleeve make three strokes on the original line by the edge of blade B. The lower stroke mark at the angle for the inner guide- stroke of wrist. The center- stroke mark at half the length of sleeve measure to guide the bend of sleeve. The upper stroke mark at the entire length. Place the angle of square on the center-stroke, mark 4 inches in for bend of sleeve. Place the angle of square on the upper-stroke, mark 4 inches in for shape of top. Then place the angle of square on the stroke of wrist, have the edge of blade B on the bend-stroke, then draw a line from wrist to the stroke of bend. Take the curved blade, place the point of edge L 2 inches below the bend stroke of sleeve, have the edge L also on the upper stroke, draw a line by edge L to complete the inner length. For width of wrist place the angle of scjuare on the inner-stroke of wrist, have the blade B even with the line of sleeve, mark the width of wrist at blade C, draw a line from inner to outer stroke of wrist. For width ot ell)ow place the angle of square on the bend of sleeve-line, mark the width at blade B. For width of sleeve at top, place the angle of square on the inner-length of sleeve, mark the width at blade B. F"or the elbow-length of sleeve, place the angle of square on the outer-width of wrist, have the width of elbow to connect with the length of elbow, draw a line from wrist to elbow, allow i inch for fullness at elbow, continue the line to the top width of sleeve. To get the exact length, take a tape-measure, measure the inner-length from wrist to top, measure the outer-length from wrist to elbow, continue to the top. Place the square across the top of sleeve from the inner to the outer-length, draw a short line in the center of sleeve, from the latter line take 3'j inches up for cap, draw a round line for cap. LOWER SLEEVE. Mark the lower sleeve on the same pattern as with upper sleeve, place the angle of square on the inner-stroke of wrist, with the blade B 2 inches in from the bend of upper sleeve, draw a line from the wrist to the bend of lower sleeve. Place the angle of square on the inner-length at top of sleeve, mark 3 inches in from the sleeve-line, take the curved blade, place the point of edge L 2 inches below the bend-stroke, have the edge L also on the upper-stroke for lower sleeve, draw a line to complete the length. tS For width ol wrist place the angle of square on the inner stroke of wrist, for 2 '.. inches width take five-eighths up for slant, make a mark, move the angle on the stroke for slant, liave the edge of blade B on the bend of lower sleeve, have the blade C with the intended width of lower wrist on the line of upper wrist, then draw a line for lower wrist. For width of elbow, place the angle of square on the bend of sleeve, mark the width at blade B. For width of sleeve at top, place the angle of square on the length of sleeve, mark the width at blade B. Place the angle of square at the width of wrist, have the width of elbow to connect with the elbow-length, draw a line from wrist to elbow, continue the line to the top of sleeve. To get the exact length take a tape-measure and measure the inner and outer length, draw a curved line at top. To draft a sleeve for a miss do not curve the sleeve as much as for a lady, the rules in drafting the sleeve are the same as for lady's sleeve. Alterations must be made on the outer seam for tightening or loosening the sleeve, also for a flowing or bell sleeve make allowance on the lower sleeve from elbow to wrist. MEASURES FOR PRINCESS DRESS OR WRAPPER, For front, measure from neck to waist, continue to the floor. For side, measure from side of arm's-eye to waist, continue back of hip to the floor. For under-arm, measure from under-arm to waist, continue over the hip and to the floor. For back, measure from back of neck to waist, continue to the floor. If a train is desired take measures according to the desired length. DIAGRAM FIG, i OF PLATE No. 4 SHOWS A DIMINUTIVE DRAFT FOR FRONT OF PRINCESS DRESS OR WRAPPER. Follow the instruction of fig. i of plate No. i for the guide of front-neck, shoulder and chest, allow at shoulder and chest for shoulder dart. Place the angle of square on the stroke of neck, have the edge of blade B on original guide, mark at both edges of bust-guide F, at inch 4 mark the length of front waist, place the angle of square on length of front waist, have blade C on original front- guide, for waist. guide draw a line along the edge of blade B. Place the angle of square on the two strokes of bust-guide, with blade C towards you, draw a line along the edge of blade B, mark the width of bust for front part to shape the arms-eye, draw a line from length of shoulder to width of chest and to width of bust. Mark a '_• inch in at waist length for curve of waist, draw a line for front- edge from waist up to bust, to locate the darts at waist place the angle of square on the length of waist, with the edge of blade B on the waist-guide, mark the first dart 2 inches from the front edge, add i ■_. inch for first dart, take i inch waist from first to second dart, add 1)2 inch for second dart. 19 For the height of darts phice the blade B on the front etige, have the inch of tlie intended height on the stroke of waist, with the blade C across the bust, locate the top of darts by the edge of blade C, the first dart mark at inch 2l4, the second dart mark at inch 5, raise the second dart a J4 inch. To shape the darts take curved lilade, place the point of edge L on the first stroke of dart at lower waist-guide, draw a line to the lieight of dart stroke, for the opposite side of the dart, turn the blade blank up, shape the second dart in the same manner below the waist, shape the darts straight, draw the lines to a slope. After the darts are shaped divide the remaining inches of waist in two parts, place the blade B on waist guide, take the one part of the inches from second dart to the hip-form, add 2 inches for hip-form, take the second part of theinches from the hip-form to the side, make a mark, add i inch for tfie guide-stroke of side, place the sijuare with blade C on the waist-guide, also on the guide-stroke of side, have the blade B to your left, draw a line for guide of side, for length of side mark the intended length at blade B the guide-stroke for bust, place the angle of sijuare on the guide-stroke of bust, mark the remaining width of bust, curve the side from bust to waist-guide. For the under-arm length, place the blade B on the inner-stroke of waist at second hip-form stroke, draw a line from waist to the bust for second hip-forrn line, draw a curved line at bust for arms-eye, draw the first liip-form line from bust to waist, locate two small darts on the line to point towards the front, have the upper dart i 'i inch below the arms-eye. have the darts deep enough to have the line conform in length with the second hip-form line, slope the two lines to a point 3 to 4 inches below the waist line. For size of hip place the blade B 4 inches below the waist line from front to side, add the width for the darts and the hip-form to the hip measure, make a stroke and draw a round line from waist line down to hip. The darts should be placed to slant to the side. Example: For a large bust and small waist add more space in the dart at shoulder for fullness of bust, for large hip add more space in tiie hip-form at waist for fullness of hips, if a dress is too tight over the hips it shows that there is not space enough in the hip-form at waist to give the desired fullness. For princess dress or wrapper there should be no darts placed in the dress goods, the dress goods should always be designed in some pretty way so as to avoid tlie darts. This should make no difference in regard to tlie lining, as it is always best to have a good fitting lining with darts. The darts for princess dress should not be taken too deep as it gives too much fullness in the skirt part. This is the object of having the shoulder dart for the purpose of having sufScient fullness for the bust. Reference is made to the hip-form of princess dress, if more seams are de- sired in the skirt part, splice the pattern from the hip-form down, this makes a front and side part, cut the side-edge of the front part gore enough to give the desired fullness, cut the indicating edge of the side part quite straight, gore the side part on the side edge facing to the back. DIAGRAM FIG. i OF PLATE No. 5 SHOWS A DIMINUTIVE DRAFT FOR A PLAIN WAIST. Follow the instructions of fig. i for the guide of front neck, shoulder and chest. For guide of bust and length of waist, place the augleof square on tlie stroke of neck, have the edge of blade B on original front-guide, mark at both edges of bust-guide F at inch 4, mark the length of front waist. To guide the width of waist place the angle of square on length of waist, have the blade C on origi- nal fiont-guide, then draw a line along the edge of blade B, then draw a lower line according to the allowance for slant of waist. Place the angle of square on the two strokes of bust guide, with the blade C towards you, draw a line along the edge of blade B, mark the entire width of bust. Mark at '_• inch in at waist-length for curve, draw a line for front-edge from waist up to bust, to locate the darts, place the angle of square on the curve- stroke of waist with the edge of blade B on the waist-line, divide the waist- measure in unequal parts, add the width for the darts, mark the first dart 2 inches from the edge, add i y> inch for first dart, take i inch waist from first to second dart, add 2j_. inches for second dart. For the height of darts place the blade B on the front-edge, have the inch of the intended height on the stroke of waist with blade C across the bust, locate the top of darts by the edge of blade C, the first dart mark at inch 3, the second dart mark at inch 6, raise the second dart a. jj inch. To shape the darts take curved blade, place the point of edge L on the first stroke of lower waist-guide, draw a line to the height of dart-stroke, for the op- posite side of the dart, turn the blade blank up and draw a line, shape the sec- ond dart in the same manner. After the darts are shaped, count the inches of waist-measure which are placed in with the darts, place the angle of square on the front stroke of waist line, measure 2 inches waist from front edge to first dart, i inch from first to second dart, which makes 3 inches waist, place the edge of blade B witli the inch 3 on the second line of the second dart, then take the remainder of the width of front waist, make a mark. For length of side place the angle of square on the latter stroke of waist with blade B on the stroke of bust, mark the length of side at blade B, for under- arm length place the square in about the center of the waist, measure from waist up to bust, to shape the arms-eye draw a line from length of shoulder to widtli of chest, also to the exact under-arm and side-length. Slant the waist below the waist-line according to the allowance of the meas- ure, front and side, lay a small plait in the curve of the arms-eye of the pattern. For a misses waist follow the preceeding instructions, for a miss 10 to 12 years take i dart, for a miss 13 to 14 years take 2 darts, i inch in each. DIAGRAM FIGS, 2 AND 3 OF PLATE No 5 SHOWS A DIMINUTIV£ DRAFT OF FRONT AND BACK FOR CHILD'S WAIST. Take the measures of waist not too tight, take no dart, draft a plain front, draft the back straight. DIAGRAM FIG. 4 OF PLATE No, 5 SHOWS A DIMINUTIVE DRAFT FOR CHILD'S SLEEVE. Curve the sleeve slightly, as it should be quite straight. 21 MEASURES FOR SKIRT. For length of skirt, measure from the front of waist hue to the floor. For side, measure from the side of waist over the hip to the floor. For back, measure from the waist-line at back to the floor. For a very fleshy lady take two extra measures for length, one before the hip and one back of hip. For width of skirt, take the measure of the waist for waist-band. For width of hips, take the measure around the hips about 5 to 6 inches below the waist. For a miss, take the hip measure 4 to 5 inches below the waist. For a child take the hip measure 3 to 4 inches below the waist. It is impossible to give specific instruction for a skirt as the styles are con- tinually changing. Therefore the hip-measure should be divided as to the num- ber of gores required. To suit the prevailing fashions purchase patterns. It is necessary to have a correct skirt measure of the lady that the skirt is to be made for, as purchased patterns are not always correct. The right way to fit a skirt is to have the skirt-band of the correct measure, fit the skirt over the hips, fasten to the skirt-band, then arrange the lower part of skirt for length. RULES FOR CUTTING THE WAIST-LINING. Place the pattern on the lining in the like manner so as to agree with the outline of the diagrams, for the outlines of the diagrams show how the linings should be cut for a good fit. Place the front edge of pattern parallel with the selvage, allow about 2 inches for hem. Place the under-arm part of the bias waist with the top of pat- tern pointing outward and the waist part of the same pattern pointing inward. For back have the center-line of back as straight as possible. Take the waist lining double fold, have the selvage towards you, cut the fronts out first, pin the pattern on the lining to keep it in place, then trace all the lines on the pattern, in cutting the lining allow for seams, baste the linings together on the traced lines. The right way to put a waist together is to join the side-form to the back by keeping the back towards you, put the direct waist-lines together, continue to the arms-eye, then join the two backs by the center-seam. Turn and baste the hem of the front, then baste the darts, beginning at the top, join the under-arm part to the front by putting the direct waist lines to- gether, continue to the arms-eye. Then join the under-arm parts of fronts to the side-form of back by putting the direct waist-lines together, continue to the arms-eye. Put the shoulders together beginning at the neck, stretch the front of shoulder slightly, keep the back of shoulder towards you. Sew the hooks and eyes on the waist before it is fitted. For seamless waist connect the under-arm parts to the back, stitch the seams, then place the goods on the lining to the under-arm seam. To draft a square or round collar, also yoke for shirt waist, pin the shoulder line of back pattern on the shoulder line of front pattern. Then draw pencil lines for the desired shape of pattern, place the pattern on a sheet of paper and trace the lines, this gives a good fitting collar and yoke. RULES FOR CUTTING THE SLEEVE. The pattern should he placed on the linnig with the inner part of wrist on the selvage, while the inner part of the top of sleeve is from 4 to 5 inclies from the selvage so as cut the sleeve from wrist to elhow considerably on a l>ias, then trace all the lines. The lower sleeve should be cut still more on a bias than the upper sleeve. In cutting the dress goods for a tight sleeve the goods should be cut on a bias from the wrist to the elbow. .\t the top of sleeve allow for fullness accord- ing to the style. The right way to put the sleeve together is to begin at the inner wrist, have the upper sleeve towards you, then join the point of inner wrist of upper sleeve to the point of inner wrist of lower sleeve, continue on the two traced lines to the top. Then join the outer seam from wrist to elbow, place the fullness at the elbow of upper sleeve, continue to the top. In sewing the sleeve in the arms- eye have the inner seam of sleeve at the inner curve of arms-eye. For a leg-of-mutton sleeve with one seam join the lining from w^rist to elbow, place the lining on the goods, for fullness at tup allow according to st^le. The teacher is requested to furnish the ladv with her correct measure, as the lady can not take her own measure. 23 •n-r LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 013 964 160 7