Glass. Book. -+/ H.F.KIMBALL BOOKSELLER QUEBEC St. PAUL'S, NEW YORK. THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE BY J. M. HARPER, The Author of "Our Jeanies." DEDICATED TO SIR JAMES M. LeMOINE, D.C.L., Spencer Grange, Quebec. A I ■03 H3 TBANSFERRED Ff?OM BEAQi'NQ ROOM ^ PREFATORY NOTE. This is the third of the series of the his- torical hrochures which the writer is prepar- ing for Canadian readers and those who visit us. The success which has attended the others, it is to be hoped, will be graciously extended to this one also. The visitor will find its pages a ready guidance while learning the topography of the ancient capital, a little bit at a time; and the young Canadian may not regret the labour required to commit to memory the verses that are meant to embody one of the most exciting chapters in the history of our colonial development and broadening loyalty. DESCRIPTIVE NOTES. It is a far cry, as a Scotsman would say, from the seething crowds of Broadway, where old St. Paul's has weathered the changes of a century or so, to the silent crevices of Cape Diamond, which overlooks the spacious harbour of Quebec. The rear of the sacred edifice, so well known to the citizens of New York, is adorned wifh a monument which tells us how the remains of General Richard Montgomery, who fell at Quebec, December 31st, 1775, were deposit- ed under its base within the chancel window, in the year 1818; while on the scarred flank of the rock of Quebec, on its southern side, there is to be seen a well-worn inscription, also intimating that the said Richard Mont- eoraerv met his fate near the foot of the precipice on which the Citadel of the ancient capital of Canada is built. Those who would understand the plan of the siege of 1775, and the topography of the ground encompassed by Montgomery and Arnold, would do well to begin their investigations at the foot of Cote de Lamontagne, common- 4 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTES. ly called Mountain Hill, — -ftrst, by taking a drive eastward along Notre Dame and Cliamplain Streets as far as Wolfe's Gove, and thence upwards and across from St. Louis Road to the St. Foye Road as far as Holland House, at the head of what is known as Sandy Hill; and second, by taking a walk along Sault-au-Matelot and Sous- le-Cap Streets, ascending the successive inclines that lead to the site of Hope Gate, and then proceeding from the Battery to the foot of Palace Street, On the drive west- ward, the points of interest to be taken note of en route are: the Church of Notre Dame des Victoires; Mountain Hill and little Champlain street; the Champlain Market House; the buildings around the King's Wharf; the scene of the Landslide; the buildings on the Allans' Wharf ; the Ruisseau St. Denis at Wolfe's Cove; and the plaislrs of Wolfesfield and Holland Farm. Attention is given to these places seriatim in another part of this work. The SEime is done for the points of interest in the direction to be taken eastward by the visitor; these being the buildings in the neighbourhood of the Quebec Bank; " the Rock of Dog Lane"; the Battery; the Ram- parts; the Hotel Dieu; and the building now known as Boswell's Brewery, occupying as it does, the site of the Intendant's Palace. The changes which have taken place in the "lay of the streets" since 1775 are best understood by locating with some care the Cul-de-Sac of Champlain's time, the little TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 5 bay which has long been filled in, and which forms the present site of the Champlain Market Place. This inlet, wherein small craft used to discharge their cargoes or were moored during the winter months, extended inwards as far as the line of Little Champlain Street, and was bounded on the east by the houses of Sous-le-Fort Street, and on the west by the King's Wharf. At the foot of Sous-le-Fort Street, where stood Champlain'^s Habitation, there was an open space, in 1775, — the site of the Royal Battery of the French regime; and at its head there was the old stairway-link between Cote de Lamontagne and Little Champlain Street. Champlain Street proper had its origin at the open waters of the Cul-de-Sac and ran along the river front, as a carriage way, as far as Pres-de-Ville, which is described as being on the further side of the King's Wharf past the old King's Forges. There can be no doubt therefore that the memorial sign-board attached to the side of the crevice, leading from the enclosure of the Allan's Wharf to the Citadel, indicates the exact site of the barricade attacked by Mont- gomery. Beyond Pres-de-Ville there extend- ed a footpath round Cape Diamond, but this was hardly to be distinguished from the shore-line, which was always passable in summer as far as Wolfe's Cove for people on foot. The course followed by Montgomery, therefore, after he had descended the steep of Wolve's Cove on his way to Pres-de-Ville, was beset with the winter difficulties to be Q TOrOGRAPHICAL NOTES. seen at any time during the months of December and January near the tide-line of the river beyond Sillery or New Liverpool. The plan matured by Montgomery for the taking of the city was so simple and the only one feasible, that it is a wonder he remained so long out at Holland House without putting it into execution. Arnord was in f?t. Roch sauandering his strength and ammunition against Palace Gate and its blockhouse; and when he was dislodged from the Palace his principal vantage- ground, on its being unroofed by the besieged, there was nothing for him to do but to wait till Montgomery was ready to move from his encampment, and so combine in a simultaneous assault, by way of the steep street leading into the upper town, from the river front on the south side. But the true condition of affairs within the walls was not so well known to the leader of the invaders as were the dissensions in his own ranks. Delay had brought him no success. Indeed, he seems to Have been more or less the dupe of circumstances, living in a fool's paradise, from the moment he arrived before Quebec, if one would explain his inaction and the remarkable letters he sent to Carle- ton and the citizens. And when at lengtn he made up his mind to do something, before his soldiers could legally demand a release, it was hardly to be expected that other than failure would come of his assault. Carleton certainly stood in no fear of his advance There is no intention to place on record "The House where lay the General dead." THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. The Angelus in the gloaming, ringing peace in time of strife, Scndeth echo through the streetlets that makes a jar of Hfe, While rumours, — ghastly rumours — scurry thieflike through the town, From citadel to suburb, making French and English frown At fate, that lingers brooding, near basilica and fane, Over colony and empire whose weal seems on the wane. 10 THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. The shadows bear the presage, on record much the same, When the good old city dared withstand a foreign foeman's claim, — When the rivals, France and England, deadly duel fought afield, Leaving prestige well protected under Britain's broader shield ; With citizenship a brotherhood that flouts the common foe. And claims its own the pride to aid its own in weal or woe. Yea, the shadows bear a presage, with no prophet near at hand, To read aright the tidings dire that linger through the land ; For alas ! St. Johns is taken, Mount Royal sore beset, And the Richelieu's great waterway gives joy to foe elate, Waylaying brave Sir Guy's descent near by the confluence-coigne Where Chambly's rapids, run their course, the proud St. Lawrence join. THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. U God save us ! Who's the messenger that brings the tidings dire ? Whence comes he ? Give us patience ! Is he friend or foeman's hire ? What say the men that govern us — the men Sir Guy has sworn To man the walls and guard the gates against the invader's scorn ? Is there no one near to tell us what is false or what is true ? Is there no one near to tell us what 'tis the best to do ? The moon in ragged radiance looks askance upon the scene ; The drifting clouds fringe spire and dome as with a sackcloth screen ; And the crowd is growing wider around the Barracks Square, With the human streamlets closing in, from every thoroughfare : A vocal tremor fills the air, — a cry is heard beyond, Where the Chateau stands a sentinel on conse- crated ground. 12 THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. As from reservoir to cistern, the Place runs o'er in turn, And the news Hke wildfire blazes forth, as heart and temper burn; — '' The good Sir Guy is home again ! List to the cannon's boom ! " Hurrah for hope ! Hurrah for joy ! Away with doubting gloom ! " What ! Montreal has fallen ? Three Rivers, too, you say ? '' What of it, now that Carleton is with us in our fray ? '' Perchance poor Monsieur Arnold, with his tattered crew of braves, " Will dance again round Port St. Louis, to tell us we are slaves ; '' A second challenge he may send, decreeing still our doom, " Or bring a host from Pointe-aux-Trembles, without the walls to fume ; " But he'll find, with all his bluster or yet Montgomery's aid, "' That the colours of the British flag are never like to fade." THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. 13 Thus spake brave Maitre Thompson, beside the Chateau's gate, Where stood his comrades under arms the general to await ; Full well he knew how far the walls could check the approaching foe, Since, under orders night and day, he had been to and fro, From the Palais to the Citadel, making good the new defence, A blockhouse here, a picket there, with palisades condense. '* Fear comes and goes, yet Arnold knew a fear no more than we, " When hardship stayed his timorous march beyond the friendly sea, *' When through the pathless wilderness, across Megantic's heights, *' He traced the toilsome Chaudiere by a thous- and dismal lights : — " The British flag flaunts freedom, but is its freedom free ? " Perchance 'tis ours to find elsewhere a truer liberty." 14 THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. Bold be ye Adam Lymbtirner, in presence thus to speak, Since ears there are fell keen to hear, and minds as sure to leak. Some say 'twas Humiphreys carried yon a letter from without : — Was't then your hope of liberty made him a welcome scout ? Was't then you thought it safer far, to make a foe a friend, — A patriot or a traitor, your country to defend ? Not so spake Maitre Thompson, though the words were on his tongue. For the general then was passing in, while yet the plaudits rung ; But his face flashed indignation on the coterie near by. And Adam felt the lightning force of the over- seer's eye ; " God take such traitorous townsmen !" was all the goodman said. As Captain Owen sent him word to join the men he led. The Site of the "Second Barricade.'^ THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. 15 That night was consummation, — no doubt, far less despair ; A master mind was in command, his will was everywhere ; As he sat within his council and heard what had been done To make secure the city walls, the bastions one by one. As he heard the tidings from around, — the numbers of the foe, Within was courage, and without, joy took the place of woe. And soon the story went the rounds in every street and lane Of the risk the good Sir Guy had run to reach Quebec again ; How his fleet had neared L.avaltrie, where Easton lay in force. Defiance in his outer line, resistance his resource ; How the fateful winds opposing, despair sat vulture-like From every mast and broken spar to watch the invader strike. 16 THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. For brave Bouchette, the keen ' La Tourtre/ when tales were in the wind, Of an evening down in Notre Dame, the com- pany being kind. Would tell how he and Lanaudiere, took matters well in hand. And swore an oath that coiitc que coittc, the devil to command. They'd find a channel safe enough, the general in their charge, Round He du Pas to St. Maurice in the pilot's swiftest barge. " By Jove, you well may say it, — the night was black as pitch, " And every passage in our way looked black as midnight ditch : " Our mufBed oars abandoned, we paddled with our hands, " Stealing through the weed-grown reaches, and whispering our commands : " Was there doubt the foe were watching, — were watching as they could ? '' Oh, how we blessed the darkness, that hid us in its hood ! THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. 17 " Yes, a blessing is the darkness, as the general often said, '' You know the way, mon chcr Boiichettc, and I am not afraid ; " But we'll reach the safer open, before the dawn of day, *' And then your stalwart oarsmen, with ne'er a hand to stay, " Will sweep the wide St. Peter's, with speed of fleetest crew, '' To save Quebec, — 'tis all that's left, — to bless Quebec and you. '' To save Quebec ! God grant it ! and his words came free at last, " The dawn is here, the waters safe, up with your makeshift mast ; '' With wind and arm in favour, and current swift beside, " By noon we'll reach Three Rivers whatever may betide ! " 'Tis there we'll find some tidings of Arnold's late attack ; " Be brave my men, a patriot's stroke, until your muscles crack !" 18 THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. "And the men rowed fierce like fighters, a- fighting with their fate, " God save Quebec, their watchword, giving nerve to love and hate ; *' And still the general urged them on, the tiller in his hand, " Until the barge found moorage safe, near Laviolette's favoured strand ; " My gratitude, brave comrades ! Such loyalty is life, — " And he leaped ashore to dare the first, the tidings of the strife. '' And soon came yeoman Frazer, staunch royalist and brave ; " In haste across the fields he came and grateful greeting gave : " Some rebels have been here, he said, a- straggling east and west, " And fain were we to follow, their fighting gear to test : " And now we shall, my general, — ah, pardon, may I not ? " 'Tis only sixteen seasons since with Wolfe we both have fought. THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. 19 '' But scarcely had the veterans grasped each other by the hand, — *',The townsfolk ear and eye intent, — the marvellous in demand, — ** When there came a later tidings that the foe six hundred strong, '•' Machiche had crossed, full bent on harm, to reach the town erelong : •'• Then haste ye, men, the general said, haste for a country's weal, '' God saving us, we'll dare outrun the rascals in their zeal ! "And haste we did I tell ye, a mouthful ta'en in haste, '* The wind still in our favour to bend the make- shift mast ; •' And aye the general urged us on, the tiller in his hand, ''Their zeal is nought to ours, he'd say, while yet our zeal he fanned. " Some craft no doubt is hovering where Arnold safely hides ; " So, on, my hearties — keep the time, — keep heart whate'er betides !" 20 THE MONTGOMEKY SIEGE. Thus brave Bouchette would gossip, when tales were in the wind Of an evening down in Notre Dame, to keep the company kind, Or further tell of hazards on the way to Point Platon Where the rapids made the river the crests of danger don. Where the curvings of the northern banks round many a pleasant bight Them led to Pointe-aux-Trembles with Arnold's tents in sight. And oft, — the wine-cup lingering, — Bouchette would sing with pride : *' Ho, there, my hearties, — keep the time, — keep heart whate'er betide ! *' Ho, here's to Napier's frigate that met us on our way ! " What care we now since Carleton is with us in our fray ! " Hurrah for hope! hurrah for joy! — away with doubting gloom ! " For the good Sir Guy is home again, — home to Quebec, our home !" THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. 21 Far other tales of daring had whilom gone the rounds, In the dingy doubtful rendezvous of Sault-au- Matelot's bounds, Where the slinking disaffected would seek the midnight hour To entertain some wretched spy, or plan some change of power, — Less bold than Adam Lymburner in openness to speak, Afraid of ears fell keen to hear, if not of minds that leak. 'Tis said no word escapeth the. phonograph of time — No thought of secret daring — no ecstasy of crime ; And if the Neptune's time-worn walls their record would reveal Of guests hob-nobbing unawares, rebellion to conceal, What a tale of double-dealing— of bravery perchance — In these doubtful restless days of yore, its annals might enhance ! 22 THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. For was It not the hostel, in the years between the wars, Of mine host, the bonhomme Tache, whose fame had reached the stars, The trysting-place of traders, the haih'ng-ground of cheer, A focus-point of welcome, diverging far and near ? Was it not where burly Benedict, a-mannered blufif and bold. Made courtship to the valour that is weakness when 'tis sold ? I know you've heard the story of his march across the plain. Where the Kennebec its sources finds, within the woods of Maine, — Of his daring on Dead River, his camp at Spider Lake, His muster where the Chaudiere goes brawling through the brake, His bravings in the wilderness by cataract and fell. His triumphs over forest foes incredible to tell ; The "Neptune Inn" (Restored.) THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. 23 But had you known Sir Boniface, the Neptune's lusty host, The phonograph of time perchance had not its records lost, Of guests hob-nobbing unawares, rebellion to conceal. Dire tales of double-dealing, delivered under seal, When ambitious burly Benedict, with manners bluff and bold, A- dallied with a double fate presaging shame for gold. W^ithin a blearing darkness, remote from public ken, One night the disaffected sought audience yet again, In Tache's secret chamber, as rang the midnight hour, Running chances with the populace, to plan a change of power ; I'^or known it was, through Mercier, with tidings from the foe, That burly boastful Benedict would strike another blow. 24 THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. And when the Hght gave entrance, with silent call of roll, The phonograph of time made haste to turn its record's scroll : There was Francois Sourde, the tanner, with Caldwell as ally, And Judas Duggan, barber bold, and three of kindred fry. And Ancien Boulanger, of sapient vacant mind, Whose vapourings made a proverb of the veerings of the wind. There was Adam d'Eaux and Pierre Le Jeune, with Mercier's clan near by, And lurking near, with furtive glance, Jules Turque, the quondam spy, And one or two of Arnold's friends, who knew him in the days He bargained in the hostel-halls or joined the trader's frays ; Nor least of all was Williams near, the man who knew no fear, Till danger stood him face to face or shouted in his ear. THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE, 25 "Why should we budge ?" as first he was, in whisperings thus to speak, " You have your rights and hopes beside, with vengeance yet to wreak ; " The invader gives us better terms than Carleton proclaims, *' The freedom of the future has in it prouder aims ; " Then budge we not ! Together stand, and claim our own reward ! — ''A challenge give in mustering strength, and mystify the guard ! '• What lesson is there yet to learn of England's cruel might ? '' Escaping, risk ye yet again the hateful tyrant's blight ? ** Is Bigot dead to live again, in seigneur's grasping wrath, '' As save we from oppression's chains a living worse than death ? •'*' Are mothers', wives' and children's cries again to rend our ears, " With famine stalking through the land, their only food our tears ?" 26 THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. Then, others having spoken, Le Turque took up the word, With a message in his tasseled tuque, 'twas time he should be heard : Ho\v came he by the message, the ramparts so secure. Nor spy nor scout assured enough to cHmb the countermure ? " 'Twas a woman, grey and haggard, from the cove beyond the heath, " Had given him the message, Montgomery's name beneath." And they Hstened to the daring, with the furtive in their eyes. Cupidity and cunning gloating over promised prize, While 'twas read how pending carnage avoided still might be. If a townsman only could be found the gates to open free : — Ay, if traitor only could be found, to act the coward's part. Planning ruin for his city, bringing shame to patriot's heart. THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. 2? But scarce had ceased the reading, when Williams, pale with dread, Made whisper of a distant din — a something's hurried tread : 'Tis nothing ! No ! Yet nearer still the rush is in the street, And the Neptune's door, loud shaken, hastens Tache to his feet ! What's that ? And that ? Make haste, ye fools: Ha,ha, no time to run, For the corridors run counter, while there's seizing one by one ! '' So ho, my hearties, caught at last ! God send you grace in time !" And the captain of the town's patrol made laughter somewhat grim. " The general needs a score of you, to soothe an anxious hour, " So make ye ready running, there are places else to scour ; ''' The Chateau's near ; Sir Guy is there ; the jail is on the hill ; " We'll give you quarters for the night, so march ye will-or-nill." 28 THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. And the grey is in the dawning, snell winter in the air, V/hen the populace, in a day or more, to Louis Gate repair ; For the wretched disaffected are ordered, man b\' man, To leave the precincts of the town, the traitress in their van ; Sir Guy has spurned the foe within, to dare the foe without, Ali courtesy suspending to treason, spy or scout. And even Adam Lymburner, as the overseer said. No longer sought the public ways, his sympathies to spread, But found retreat within the woods of Begon's Hermitage, His soul to soothe in solitude, his judgment better gauge. That the British flag waves freedom, a freedom that is free. With little hope to find elsewhere a truer liberty. THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. 29 The days were at their shortest, there was hurt- Hng in the air As December, breeding bitter blasts, was nursing its despair ; A reckless foe, a ruler stern, — to do or die in both, The one in guise of liberty, the other true as oath Kicrnal ! What the issue ? God wot, there's only one ! Tliough the marchings out of Chambly seemed a holiday begun. Within the city's palisades, beneath the bastion's frown, No quarter's given to cowardice, no grace to idle brawn ; No loyalty inactive : — '' Ho there, a willing hand ! '' Keep watch and ward at yonder nook, attend the countermand ! '' Sir Guy's behest is law within, his word is faith enough, — " A man to fear, a man to love, ay, ay, of British stuff !" 30 THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. And even now the brave Bouchette had oft to be restrained : — ''' The foe, by Jove, what is the foe ? The scruff of humankind ! " Give me my sword and Lanaudiere, with matters well in hand, ** And, coiitc que coiite, the horde of them, the devil to command, " We'll put en route to Boston beach, and crave no rich reward : " Ay, ay, fear not ; to save Quebec, we'll soon relieve the guard ! " But the wise Sir Guy craves patience and makes defence secure ; Urging citizen and soldier insultings to endure; The walls bemanned to westward, the Palace Gate enclosed, The vantage-nooks and ledges, with outlooks well disposed. Give assurance to the barricades along the river's line, From Pres-de-Ville the outer guard to Sault- au-Matelot's chine. GENERAL Sir GUY CARLETON. (Lord Dorchester.) THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. 31 And still the watchful days and nights keep lingering into weeks, \Vith a message scorned from Holland House, 'mid cannonading freaks, Or yet deserter slinking near, and faltering ta'en within. To tell his tale of failing hearts, nathless the open din : And Barnsfare and McQuarters, with a hint how things will be, Keep a keener guard than ever, in the cause of liberty. And Maitre Thompson labours on, with his hundred men or more. No blockhouse uninspected from the Palais to the shore : " We'll dare the devils and their ploys," 'twas his with pride to say : '• They little reck what old Quebec can gather for the fray : " The day they came from Levis I fired the bastion's gun, " And, do ye know, the rascals ran as if their dargue was done ; 32 THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. " But once give Jones the signal, Dupre, Chabot, P^icard, ' With kindred watch-dogs, true as steel, their mystery will mar : ' With a Caldwell and Mackenzie and a Hamilton to boot, ' Sir Guy, our freedom's champion, will rout them horse and foot : ' The poor old Palais lies full low, o'erturned by friendly blow, • But lower still, the day quite near, shall yonder dastard foe ' Be driven back from every glade. What daring brings them here ? ' Is this their land — their hearth-and-home ? Think they we quake with fear ? ' Ha, ha, my lads, 'tis ours to fight for what is yet our own ! ' En has with those who soon will reap what they have wildly sown ! ' They little reck what old Quebec can muster for the fray : ' We'll dare the devils and their ploys, our trust in God alway." THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. 33 Indeed so ill the secret was kept beyond the town, Tliat from citadel to water's edge, the invaders' plans w^ere known ; /Vnd when the year had run its course beyond the Christmastide, There was waiting for their coming, as if 'twere naught to hide, — One band approaching from the A use, the other by St. Roch, To meet at foot of thoroughfare to escalade the rock. The night is dark, the sifting snow wreathes high its rampart walls, — A fitting hour for mischief's deeds, wrath- winged with fitful squalls. Expectation stands on tiptoe, though no mur- murings are heard, Revealing passion's wakefulness, by any idle word : For Barnsfare and McQuarters, now knowing what's to be, Have instant duty well in hand, in the cause of liberty. 34 THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. And Malcolm Frazer has betimes good use for both his eyes, With forecast's surety in his soul to anticipate surprise : " Did ye not see that tongue of fire ? Why, there it is again ! " A signal ? Yea, the truth at last ! Our watching's not in vain ! '' Ho, there, ye guards, arouse ye ! Ring out the town's alarms ! '' The foe is hither marching : to arms, to arms, to arms !" And in the RecoUets' Convent, the governor takes his place, There is calmness in his bearing, a smile upon his face, " Stand by your posts, each man his own, you know them well, I trow, " There is danger only when disgrace be- smirches fealty's vow : " If barricade or picket fail, no likely fate to be, " Here on this crowning ground I'll wait the hour for you and me. THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. 35 '' The cannonading yonder is feigning of its kind, " 'Tis from below the struggle comes ; so wing ye with the wind, *•' Each to his own, brave comrades ; stand by the barricades : " Faitli in one's king and country — a soldier's — seldom fades, '* Your baptism, perchance severe, will bring its own reward : " Stand by ye then, march with your men, and instant join the guard ! " No further word is spoken, no need for counter- mand ; All else is ordered as before, each knows his own conmiand : For the good Sir Guy had chosen subalterns faithful, true. From the loyalty within the town, when the traitorous withdrew ; And he watches for their tidings by the beetling hillside's brow From the outer posts of Pres-de-Villc and Sault-au-Matelot. ■ 36 THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. And, as he stands, the din of war comes distant to his ear, A muffled sound near Palace Gate, a sound of seeming- fear ; Then louder as if bolder, men's shoutings fill the air : Is the picket yet in danger ? Is there in these cries despair ? But the governor, trained a soldier, is silent as a king. And awaits for surety's message his faithful scouts will bring. " What, ho, they're past the Palais!" corroborate tidings come, '"' The demon Arnold at their head, with rataplan of drum ; " Their marching now an open game, they thread the Canoterie, **' The shipyards on their outer flank, the Battery on their lee, " Will they dare the deadly danger from the ramparts overhead ? — " Ah, there it is — the first to fall — a shower-bath raining lead ! " THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. .37 And still another voice brings tale : " They're at the barricade ! — " Forlorn the hope before them, behind a whole brigade : '* The snow is in their bloodshot eyes, the cold their senses stuns, " 'Tis hand to hand, no quarter now, they've thrown away their guns : " They say their leader's fallen, and Morgan takes his place ; '' What cheering's that ? Is't ours or theirs ? It cannot mean disgrace ? '' Disgrace to us? It cannot be! The barricade is ta'en ! " Who told you that ? Is Caldwell there ? Ay, ear, and eye, and brain ! '■' Lymburner's house is in his hands, where centring passions roar, *' The windows bringing in relays, while the invader's at the door : '' Brave, say ye ? No one braver ! List to his musketry ! "' Can heroic strife be closer ? Wait till the rascals flee !" 38 THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. For flee they must the din declares, attacked in front and rear, With Nairne, Damboiirges, and all the rest at last in full career. A pause ! a cheer ! a mighty cry ! Is't true the day is ours ? God save Quebec ! Quebec is saved, since God thus owns her powers ! Hurrah for hope ! Hurrah for joy ! Away with doubting gloom ! Tor the good Sir Guy is home again^iome to Quebec, our home ! But Pres-dc-Ville, I pray thee! Is the leader overcome ? Ay, hours agone ! At early dawn he met his sudden doom ! Amid the snow his body lies, his sword-hand in the air ; Around him, dead, his comrades : his followers in despair ; For Farnsfare and McQuarters knowing well what was to be, Had no failing in their courage in the cause of liberty. I— ( O I O hH THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. 39 The tale is brief. A Hazard blindly thrown in fortune's face, — To do or die in action, — since delay forebode disgrace ! The day is at its breaking, the wind a thousand darts, Frost-pointed, piercing keenly, while the foot of soldier parts The curving drifts below the cliffs, as best a soldier may, When obstacles of nature, as of arms, are in his way. There's no hiding of their errand now, as a keen-eyed guardsman says, And theirs will be the welcome soon that stills ambition's craze : See how they brave the ice-floes, to overtake the path That labours round Cape Diamond to further fateful wrath ! They dream, perchance, we're sleeping, as we rest upon our arms ; Ay, ay, they'll hardly waken us till nearer our alarms ! 40 THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. Now they turn the ledge's limits, whence the picket's been withdrawn : The fools ! they're daring nearer ! be ready man to man ! Ah, how the storm goes raging ! Just wait an instant more ! Hush ! There they are, a handful ! Now let the volleys roiar ! There's no resisting fire like that ! ah, ha, they disappear ! Another volley once again, and victory is near ! And when Montgomery's orderly, with but an hour to live, Was borne in time within the camp, he had no word to give Of his masters fate, though well he knew how far his cause was lost ; But he told how brave a word was his, with little heart to boast, As he led his men from Holland House across the snow-bound plain. With fate contending step by step to end the dread campaign. THE MONTGOMERY SIEGE. 41 " Forward," he cried, — our leader cried, — '' disaster lies behind ! " If foe there be, we'll dare the worst, in teeth of every wind : '' The outer post's abandoned ; perchance the inner fort ; " So hand to hand, I dare demand extremity's support ; '* If hardship has beset our path, the prize is near at hand ; '' So, onward press, my gallants, 'tis our country gives command," And as they soothed the sergeant's couch, and sought for further word. If his leader was among the first to pass the outer guard ; " Who knows may say," the poor man sighed ; *' he safety may have found, '' To nerve his followers' courage, my comrades yet beyond, — " A restive band, God knows how far, since a soldier may not tell !" And weird the word came from his lips, alas ! the last to fall. 4*2 THE MONTGOMEUY SIEGE. Fate ! folly ! was't a soldier's dream, — his death ,a nation's birth ? His sword the emblem of a cause, or but a soldier's worth ? Crown him with pride ! He has been crowned. But what of those who stood Against his ill-timed onset, — of Carleton the good ? Of Farnsfare and McQuarters, daring w^ell what was to be, Ey faith abiding hand to hand in the cause of liberty ? BIOGRAPHY OF SIR GUY CARLETON. Sir Guy Carleton, afterwards Lord Dor- chester, was the third son of General Sir Guy Carleton, of Newry, Ireland, being born at Strabane on September 3rd, 1724. Having entered the Guards as a youth, he received a lieutenancy in the 72nd Foot when twenty- four years of age, and served in Germany, where he was distinguished for his efficiency as an officer and his bravery in the field. With the rank of Colonel he accompanied Wolfe in his expedition against Quebec, during which campaign he acted as quarter- master-general. He had also to take charge of the engineering department, for Wolfe soon found that his engineers had little experience and less zeal. In the strug- gle which ensued, and which was to decide the ownership of Canada, Carleton had command of an attack on Pointe-aux-Trem- bles, was wounded at the Battle of the Plains, and served under Murray at the Battle of St. Foye. He acted as brigadier in the expedition against Belle Isle, as quarter- master in the siege of Havana, and was 44 SIR GUY CAELETON. wounded at the capture of the Spanish redoubt on More Hill. In 1766 he arrived at Quebec, with a commission to act as administrator of the government of Canada in the event of the absence of the governor; and later, on October 25th, 1769, succeeded General Murray as governor-in-chief of the colony. On assuming this important office, he quickly gained the public regard, from the fairness and consideration with which he treated the inhabitants, among whom at the time of his appointment, there was much dissatisfaction. The French element of the population were making demands for the restoration of the French civil law and custom. Carleton listened to their petitions, and after making a study of the situation, arranged for the careful compiling and revising of the Coutume de Paris, which embodied the civil law; while the criminal law of England was declared to be in force. In 1770 Carleton returned to England on leave, of absence, and while he was away petitions were prepared asking for the inauguration of a House of Assembly in accordance with the terms of the Royaf Proclamation of 1763. These requests were ultimately granted by the passing of the Quebec Act in 1775. During the same year the American Revolution broke out, shortly after Carleton's return to Canada, and all his energy was required to save British America to the Crown. After the capture of Ticonderoga and Crown Point, the "Gates of Canada," by the Continental forces, as SIR GUY CARLETON. 45 they were called, the governor summoned the seUjneiirs, and called upon them to enroll their censUaires in the militia. The Jidhltants refused to take up arms, and Carle- ton declared martial law. Upon the continued refusal of the habitants to serve in the country's defence, Bishop Briand, at the governor's request, issued a pastoral letter, urging the people to respond to the call made upon them. Even this had but little effect, so that Carleton had to prepare for the defence of the colony with very few troops at his command. He, however, divided this meagre armament as best he could, to guard the various approaches to the interior, and set out himself for Montreal, where his further appeals to the French-Canadians were again met with indifference. By this time the country was in a critical phase of its existence. It was threatened with what geemed likely to prove an effective invasion by a hostile force, while all was not peace and harmony within its borders. The English population was to a great extent disloyal, being jealous of the privileges granted to the French portion of the popula- tion by the Quebec Act, and, on the other hand, the latter refused to join in the defence of the government which had grant- ed them these privileges. The capture of the forts at Chambly and St. Johns by Montgomery's forces was followed by an attack on Montreal, which also fell tempor- arily into the hands of the invaders. Sir Guy, however, escaped just as Montgomery 46 SIR GUY CARLETON. was entering the town, and passing silently down the river, reached Quebec on Novem- ber 19th, an event which without doubt saved Canada to Britain. Here he found consternation reigning as a result of the siege inaugurated by Arnold, who had arrived before the walls by way of the Chaudiere valley. How the governor grasped the situation at once, expelled the disaffected from the town, and, imparting his own fixedness of purpose and energy to the little garrison, succeeded in frustrating the besiegers' every attempt to effect an entrance, is a matter of history. In 1766, Carleton organized an expedition against the revolted colonies and defeated Arnold's flotilla on Lake Champlain. The following year he was superseded in the command by Burgoyne, who proved comparatively incom- petent; but in 1781 he succeeded Sir Henry Clinton as commander of the British forces in North America, and in 1786 was apponted Governor-General of Canada, having been raised to the peerage, as Lord Dorchester, shortly before his appointment. On his arrival he immediately assembled the Legis- lative Council and formed its members into committees to enquire into the state of the €;ducation, commerce, laws, and police protection in the country, the chief justice having charge of the investigation into the condition of legal affairs. These enquiries showed that things were in a very indiffer- ent state in every particular; and to remedy the evils thus discovered, the Constitutional Major General Richard Montgfomery, after the portrait by C. W. Peale. LORD DORCHESTER. 47 Act of 1791 was passed by the British Parlia- ment, after having been submitted to Lord Dorchester for revision. Canada lost one of the best friends she ever had when Lord Dorchester took his departure from her shores on July 9th, 1796. His kindliness, justice, sound common sense and love for constitutional government endeared him to all classes of Canadians, who have ever justly regarded him as having been instru- mental in securing for them the freedom which they enjoy. He died at Maidenhead, England, on the tenth of November, 1808. BIOGRAPHY OF RICHARD MONT- GOMERY. Richard Montg-omery, the general in command of the forces which besieged Quebec in December, 1775, and who lost hi» life during the attack upon that stronghold on the morning of the 1st of January, 1776, was an Irishman by birth. He was born in December, 1736, near Peltrim, Dublin, and received his education at Trinity College. Early in life he chose as his calling the army, being attached to the Seventeenth Regiment when eighteen years of age. He served under Wolfe at the siege of Louis- bourg, and later, in 1759, was with Amherst on Lake Champlain, and with Haviland in the following year. He received a captaincy in 1762, and as such saw further service at Martinique and Havana. Throughout the 48 RICIIAIJD MONTGOMERY. Seven Years War he acquired mn.ch experi- ence and some distinction as a soldier; and lool^ed forward to gaining his majority on his return to Ireland. Failing in this, he sold his commission and betook himself to America, arriving in New York, where he married Janet, eldest daughter of a former friend of his. Judge Robert R. Livingston. It seems to have been his intention, upon his marriage, to retire definitely from a military career, and to content himself with the retirement of his own home circle. Pur- chasing a Tarm at Rhinebeck, he built a:, house and mill, and settled down to a life of rural ease. Embracing, however, the political views of his wife's immediate rela- tives, who were all ultra-colonial in their opinions, he was not long allowed to remain in seclusion. Possessed of more than ordi- nary ability, and thoroughly schooled in the art of warfare, his services were of too much value to the embryo nation to be lightly set aside. In 1775, he was chosen by the electors of the county of Dutchess to repre- sent them at the first provincial convention in New York, being almost immediately appointed a brigadier-general in the army, which was being organized by Washington, — a position which it is said he accepted with some reluctance. Montgomery was convinced of the strate- gic advantage to be gained by the acquisition of Canada, and, while relieving Schuyler at Ticonderoga, received despatches from General Washington, outlining a plan of KICHARD MONTGOMERY. 49 campaign having that for its object. Being thus connected with the enterprise, Mont- gomery found himself ere long in command of the invading expedition, and conducted personally the capture of St. Johns and Montreal, and ultimately the attack on Quebec, where, as has been said, he was abruptly cut off in the prime of his life. The motives which influenced Montgomery in joining the colonial forces against the royal master of his earlier years have been the subject of much discussion among historical writers and others; but in view of his apparent general character and marked talent, it is only fair to give him the benefit of any doubt there may be. As regards his change of allegiance, his position was not greatly different from that of his compan- ions in the struggle which lost to England the American colonies. BIOGRAPHY OP BENEDICT ARNOLD. Benedict Arnold, second in command to General Montgomery in the attack on Quebec in December, 1775, was a native of America, being born at Norwich, in Connec- ticut, on the 14th of January, 1741. When very young he enlisted as a soldier, but deserted from the ranks shortly afterward, and worked as an apothecary's assistant in his native place. Removing to Now Haven, in 1762, he carried on business as a druggist and bookseller, becoming after a time a property owner and assuming the title of 50 BENEDICT ARNOLD. general. Failing in business, lie entered the service of the State of Massachussetts, early in 1775, with the rank of colonel; and a few months later was entrusted with the command of the two battalions, consisting of about eleven hundred men, sent by Washington against Quebec. His success in leading this force on its terrible march through the trackless wilderness of Maine and the valley of the Chaudiere, proved that he was a man of daring bravery and wonderful endurance. Having effected a meeting with Montgomery before the walls of Quebec, he took part in the attack and was seriously wounded. For his services in this connection he was appointed a briga- dier-general; and in 1776, was in command of a small ileet, — engaging in a naval fight on Lake Champlain, in which, though not successful, he showed a great deal of courage and skill. Notwithstanding the recognition given to his intrepidity, he was not promoted to the rank of major-general until 1777, although several officers who were his juniors received that distinction before him. This was a cause of much annoyance to him, and made him discon- tented with his position in the service. He was present at the battles of Bemis Heights and Stillwater, on the latter occasion show- ing an utter lack of subordination to the general in command. In this engagement he was again seriously wounded, being rendered unfit for service for some time. In 1778, Congress gave him the command BENEDICT ARNOLD. 51 at Philadelphia, where he married, as his second wife, Margaret, daughter of Edward Shippen, who afterwards became chief-jus- tice of Pennsylvania. Having during his tenure of this office, incurred heavy pecu- niary obligations and made a number of enemies, he was tried by court-martial on a variety of charges; and, though he was acquitted, the general-in-chief was ordered to reprimand him. So convinced, however, was Washington of Arnold's ability and freedom from fault, that he praised rather than censured him. In 1780, at his own seeking, he was given command at West Point, an important military post, and almost immediately entered into negotia- tions with the British authorities to hand it over to them. The arrangements for the carrying out of this act of treachery were practically completed, when Major Andre, who was acting for the British general in the matter, was captured and the plot was discovered. Arnold fled and sought refuge on the Vulture, a British war vessel, on September 25th, and escaped to New York, where he joined the British army. He was commissioned to lead an expedition from that point against Virginia, where he greatly harassed the colonists in that part of the country, and did much damage to their property. He received £6,300 from the British Government for his proffered services; and, retiring to England, as the war was drawing to a close, died in London, little regretted, in June, 1801. TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTES. St. Paul's Chapel, situated at the lower end of Broadway, was erected in 1776, and is the oldest building of colonial origin in New York. It was the only building of importance that escaped in the burning of the city in 1776, and for twelve years there- after was the parish church. The inaugu- ration procession of General George Wash- ington was received in this place of worship by Bishop Provoost on the 30th of April, 1789, the newly elected president being accompanied by both Houses of Congress and the members of the Cabinet. The pew is still shown which the President occupied as a member of the church between the years 1789 and 1791. As has been said, the remains of General Montgomery were de- posited within the precincts of this chapel in 1818, and from the monument erected to his memory may be read the following inscription: " This monument is erected by the order of Congress, 25th January, 1776, to transmit to posterity a grateful remem- brance of the patriotism, conduct, enterprise 54 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTES. and perseverence of General Richard Mont- gomery, who after a series of successes and amidst the most discouraging difficulties, fell in the attack of Quebec, 31st December, 1775, aged 37 years The State of New- York caused the remains of Major-General Richard Montgomery to be conveyed from Quebec and deposited beneath this monu- ment, the 8th day of July, 1818." What a quiet retreat out of the swirl of life in the streets around ! What a crowd- ing of memories, amid the crowding of the great city's interests! There is no need for a service to sanctify the soul of the wayfarer here. The old sounding-board of the pulpit has its lesson of the past to teach, as has almost nearly every other object near by, from the old graveyard without, to the old pews within. The church itself is a relic of old colonial times; and, when one examines the coat-of-arms of the Prince of Wales above the old-fashioned pulpit, he wonders how it comes to be there after all that has been said and done. The modest card he holds in his hand, however, tells him the story of its escape from the hands of the iconoclasts, and American and Britisher are alike glad to-day that it did so escape, in presence of the international sympathy that gives a guarantee of the world's greater progress in the years to come. Notre Dame des Victoires. — This church is situated on what was called originally the Grande Place of lower town, in Quebec, and TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 55 later the Place du Marche. The site for it was secured after some delay by Bishop Laval in 1648, and the church itself was opened as a place of worship in 1688, two years previous to the siege by Sir William Phipps. After this event, it was called Notre Dame de la Victoire. and when the tidings was borne to the town that the projected siege by Admiral Walker in 1711 had been abandon- ed, on account of the shipwreck of the squadron under his command, the name was changed to the plural form, Notre Dame des Victoires, as a memorial of both events. The interior of the church was destroyed during the siege of 1759, and the relics it contained lost. Among the curios destroyed there was a picture of Quebec in flames' bearing a prophetic inscription declaring that lower town would be destroyed by fire some time previous to 1760, as well as a flag captured from Phipps during the memorable contest in the harbour. Notre Dame Street extends from Mountain Hill westward to Champlain Market, receiving its name no doubt from the above church. In olden- times it led directly to the open waters of the Cul-de-Sac, and was once a busy thoroughfare on market days with the Marche de la Place in front of it. This open space formed part of the enclosures of the Habitation of Champlain. In front of the church stood the pillory, and within the open space of the square the scaffold for executions used to be erected. In 1641, 5G TOrOGEAPHICAL NOTES. there stood in the centre of the square, where the fountain now is, a wooden statue of Louis XIII., which was superseded by one in bronze in 1667, a gift from M. de Cham- pigny. The first church ever erected in Quebec stood at the head of the Cul-de-Sac, at the foot of tlie narrow pathway now obviated by Breakneck Steps. It was under the supervision of Father Dolbeau, who arrived in Canada in 1615, with his associate Recollets, Father Jamay and Father Le Caron; and there is a record of the Te Deum sung witliin its walls on the arrival of Madame Champlain, as well as on account of its destruction in the siege of 1629. While digging at the foot of the stairway in 1856 the foundations of this chapel were laid bare, and a vault exposed containing the remains of a human skeleton. At first it was thought that the remains were those of Champlain himself, but they were afterwards identified as those of Father Duplessis, the first of the Recollets to die in Quebec. Mountain Hill, or Cote de Lamontagne. — As the visitor takes his way down Mountain Hill, he may wish to pause for a moment for an explanation of the strange name the thoroughfare has had ever since the city had an English resident. The street was open- ed up by Champlain when he was drawing stone and building material from the vicinity of the Habitation, to use in the construction of Fort St. Louis. The declivity which ran from the graveyard to Sous-le-Fort Street, and which is now indicated by the line of TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 57 Breakneck Steps, he found too steep, and so ho opened up a new scntier to connect with what was called Cote du Magasin, which ran parallel with the direction of the present Notre Dame and St. Peter Streets. At first the roadway was very narrow. Then it was widened after the fire of 1682, after which houses began to be built first on one side and then on the other. John Neilson, of the (lazcttc, had his printing house opposite the opening leading to the steps, in one of the houses which was removed after Prescott Gate had disappeared. The narae of the street was given to it in honour of one of its residents, Mr. Lamontagne. Hence the term Mountain Hill is its own appropriate name, and no misnomer; while, as a street, it should be called in French Rue or Cote de Lamontagne, and not de la Montague. Champlain Street, which extends along the base of Cape Diamond from the Cham- plain market place to the city limits, has many objects of interest to examine along its winding course. Prominent among these are : Little Champlain Street, formerly a business centre of the town; the old Guard House at the entrance to the wharves of the Marine and Fisheries Department; the scene of the Landslide of 1889; the Anglican Chapel; the Norwegian Schoolhouse; the great ladder-like stairway leading to the Cove-fields ; the Diamond Harbour Chapel ; and the remains of the old harbour of Quebec. Of these the Market-Hall itself takes a 58 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTES. noticeable prominence. The space around it formed the little bay so long known as the Cul-de-Sac, — the inner harbour of Quebec in its early days. The spacious building was erected in 1858, out of the materials of the old Parliament House, which stood on the site at the head of Mountain Hill now known as the Frontenac Park. The architect had instructions to retain the form of the building as it was to be seen when parliament assembled in its halls, and this was done with the exception of the dome and the wings. The visitor, therefore, in examining the exterior of this market-house is virtually looking at the Quebec Parliament Building as it was seen at the time of the union of the two Canadas. Little Cham pi a ill ^Street was formerly called Rue de Meules in honour of the Intendant of that name. At the time of Champlain, this street bounded the governor's gardens on the north, having at its easterji extremity the little wooden church erected by the Recollets in 1615. It is specially described by Charles Lever in his "Con Cregan," and is said to have been at one time one of the city's important commercial centres. Behind one of the houses facing the short stairway connecting the two Champlain Streets, there is still to be seen what was once known as Champlain's Fountain, — a spring of clear cold water trickling from the living rock. It is mentioned in several public documents, but its exact position was unknown for years until Mr. P. B. Casgrain brought it TOrOCiliAPIlICAL NOTES. 59 to light. In the eighteenth century tlie tide ran up to the base of the cliff, and there was no ChampLain Street beyond Pres-de- Ville, when Montgomery made his march, there being no houses on the beach all the way to Siliery. Hugh McQuarters, the artillery sergeant who had charge of the guns at Pres-de-Ville, had his residence in the street, where he died in 1812. So far the house in which he lived has not been identi- fied. Breakneck Steps have been in existence since the year 1660 according to a plan of the town bearing that date, previous to that time there being only a pathway leading to or from the little church which Champlain built at the head of Sous-le-Fort Street" overlooking the Cul-de-Sac. In 1706, for some cause or another, the Superior Council ordered the steps to be so narrowed above and below that only one person could pass at a time. The present iron stairway was erected in 1895, as part of the earlier city improvements, the old wooden steps being removed none too soon. The King's Wharf and Storehouses. — At the junction of the two Champlain Streets, there is a grouping of quaint buildings which cannot but attract the eye of the visitor. The old building with its cannon- protected gateway and ancient-looking dingy guard-house was once the King's Arsenal or Military Storehouse, while the more modern building to the west along the line of the street was once the Custom 63 TOrOGRAnilCAL NOTES. House, and is now occupied by tlie Quebec brancii of the Marine and Fisheries Depart- ment. Tlie wharves within are tlie property of the federal government and have formed scenes of many memorable public receptions of distinguished guests arriving by water. The spaces within also witnessed the gather- ing of the troops during the Rebellion of 1837, as well as during the excitement of the Fenian Raid. By a careful examination of the limits of the wharfage some idea can be formed of the compass of the Cul-de-Sac, with what is now called the Napoleon Wharf at its eastern bend and the govern- ment wharves at the western. In one of the buildings, a sad spectacle was presented to the citizens of Quebec on the 19th of September, 1889, when a morgue had to be improvised for the bodies of the victims of the terrible landslide. The effects of that catastrophe may still be seen a few hundred yards further on at the end of the Dufferln Terrace where the face of the rock parted from the hillside and in its descent over- whelmed several dv/ellings, burying in the debris from fifty to sixty persons. The bodies were placed side by side in a chamber of the old Custom House as they were dug out one by one; a memorial of the lamen- table awe-inspiring spectacle having been handed down to us in the following verses: Have you heard the dh-eful tidings Trembling in the morning air, — TOPOGRArHlCAL NOTES. 61 Death that harbours with disaster. Bringing on the town despair? All last nighi from eve' to daybreak, Roared the tempest, pouring down, Lashing like some blinding fury, Through the highways torrents grown. What, you have not heard the tidings, How the storm did not abate, As the darkness deep as Egypt's Settled like a coming fate! Why, 'twas flood and earthquake rending Rock and terrace-strand in twain, Crashing with relentless downfall, Rack and ruin in its train! Up and to the work of rescue; Brothers help us; sisters, pray: Dig for life; tear out the timbers; Heave the boulders from our way! Hark, a sound beneath the debris! Hark, again, a human sigh! Dig for love; O, dig in earnest! Dare we pause when one may die! What, you say, 'tis yet another, — A fair-haired laddie, limp and dend ! O God, to think how many, many, Lie upon the morgue's cold bed! Young and old, men, women, children! — What of that?. Again that cry! — Yes, 'tis there, though faint and feeble. Up, and every sinew ply! To the work, a thousand helpers! Should we save but one 'twere well! 62 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTES. The sounds below come near and nearer. Making every heart-ache swell: He's dead you say? No, no, he's living! Be tender, lift him out with care! Would that all had thus been rescued! Alas; the wish but brings despair! He dies; he's dead; the last one dead! Count them? No, we may not stay! Such lament makes hope a ruin; Let us help those whom we may. Alas, for us and for our city! Alas, for those who victims fell! Alas, for weeping kindred, wailing. As the verger tolls the knell! Crash it came; No moment's warning: Down it plunged, dire avalanche: Rock and ruin, breaking, bursting. Making all the world blanche. Pres-de-Ville was situated near the gate- way leading to the Allans' Wharf. There was but a short distance, as Caldwell says, between the King's wharf and the King's forges, which must have been situated near the base of the landslide just referred to. It will be noticed that one of the Allans' storehouses has about it an interesting look of age. It was at one time a brewery, standing at the end of the roadway passable for vehicles and occupying the site of the Potash, or Mr. Simon Frazer's house near which Farnsfare and McQuartors were stationed the morning of Montgomery's QUEBEC. TOPOGEAPHICAL XOTES. C3 advance. The configuration and projection of the rock, here indicates how suitable the locality was for an outpost, as well as how necessary to have an outlook round the angle, to watch the advance of an invader. An incident is recorded by Kingsford which shews how isolated Pres-'de-Ville was con- sidered to be, by those who had guarded it so well. Shortly after the repulse of Mont- gomery, "some old woman came in with an account that the other division of the enemy had surprised the post at Sault-au- Matelot, and was in possession of the lower town. Some of the detachment commenced to conceal their arms, others to offer to throw them in the river. Such fear was shown that a Mr. Coffin, who had taken refuge in the house adjoining the barricade, with his wife and twelve children, drew his bayonet and declared he would put to death the first man who laid by his arms or attempted to abandon the post. With the assistance of the seamen two guns were pointed in the direction of the city, in case they should be assailed from that direction, though Arnold's force was at that moment surrendering as prisoners of war." Cape Diamond is the name given to the rock on which the Citadel is built, and which extends beyond the platform exten- sion of the Duff erin' Terrace proper to the old French outv/orks. The first name given to the rock was Mont de Cast, bestowed upon it by Champlain in honour of his superior officer, De Monts. But the crop of G4 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTES. transparent quartzite crystals which recur in its strata led to the use of the name it continues to possess. It is supposed that the great rock, which is over three hundred feet in height, led from its striking appear- ance to the naming of the city itself; though no one will now ever be able to tell which of Jacques Cartier's men it was that shouted in admiration when he first saw it, "Que becque! What a cape!" It is interesting to know that Quebec, that is Kcpav or Eelbec, Kelibec, in the Algonquin language means a narrow place, or a place shut in, which the harbour of Quebec certainly seems to be as we approach it from outside. The Ruisseau St. Denis and Wolfesfield are of the deepest interest to those who would study the sieges of 1759 and 1775. From the front of the house, the natural pathway can be seen along the line of the burn up which Major John Hale made his way on the morning of the 13th of Septem- ber, 1759, while his master took possession of Vergor's outpost on the other side of the scnticr leading direct from the Cove itself. Near the turn of the road in a corner of the Marchmont grounds may still be seen the remains of the French entrenchments, which Montgomery must have passed on his way to meet his fate at Pres-de-Ville. The first house on the grounds was erected by Captain Kenelm Chandler who died as seigneur of Nicolet, in 1853. Holland House, — a long high-peaked struc- ture, situated on the St. Foye Road near TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 65 the top of Sandy Hill and a little to the right of the site of Mr. Ross's present villa, — was not known by that name until it came into the possession of Major Samuel Holland, in 1780. It had been originally built in 1740 by Mr. Jean Tache, a merchant of lower town, and ancestor of Sir Etienne Tache of later political fame. Beyond the interest attached to the place as the head- quarters of Montgomery in 1775, it has a history of its own, in connection with the annals of Quebec society, beginning with a visit of the Duke of Cornwall's great-grand- father, and ending with the death of Judge Okill Stuart, the last of the owners of the original Holland Farm, which extended from the St. Foye to St. Michael's Chapel, and contained over two hundred acres. The Quebec Bank stands on an historic spot of much interest to any one trying to learn the topography of the siege of 1775. It was here the Lymburners' offices and storehouses stood, with some dwellings, opposite, belonging to Joseph Levy the Jew. The second barricade, which Morgan beset after Arnold had been wounded, was built ai the junction of Sault-au-Matelot and Dog Lane. Arnold's detachment had taken lad- ders with them, and under Morgan's command these had been placed in position outside the barricades, and finally a lodge- ment for one of them was made on the inner side. Meantime the besieged took posses- sion of the houses above mentioned, pouring from the windows in the rear a deadly fire 66 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTES. upon those of the enemy who had been able to get within the barricade. The ladder within the barricade was at lengtn seized by the defenders and placed against the gable of one of the houses, thus enabling a stream of Caldwell's men to pass into the upper rooms, while Morgan's men were rushing in by the street door, only to be driven out at the point of the bayonet. For a time after this the scene within the second barricade was a hand to hand contest, along towards Des Soeurs Street, where there was a third line of defence. But the reserves under several British officers came pouring in from behind, and when the invaders saw this they immediately threw down their arms. When they were being conducted back as prisoners, the corner house against which the ladder stood had to be passed through, each prisoner entering by the front door and descending from the upper window into the street outside the barricade; but, as there were over four hundred prisoners taken, the barricade itself was finally open- ed to give space for a general march back to Palace Gate and thence to the Seminary v/here it was decided the prisoners should be located. • Of the Quebec Bank itself, it may be said, that it was organized in 1818 with a propos- ed capital of $600,000. It has had its charter amended several times, and after the disturbances of 1831, during which the banks were obliged to suspend operations, a Royal charter was secured during the TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 67 reign of William IV. The present building was erected in 1863. On the wharf which once extended from the neighbouring site, were built the stores of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the situation of this wharf so near St. Peter Street, as late as 1823, indicates the remarkable changes that have been made in the river front since that date. ''The Rock of Dog- Lane."— Before St. Paul Street had been laid out as a connect- ing thoroughfare between lower town and St. Roch, there was only a narrow pathway along the shore line, wide enough for the foot passenger, and frequented by the boys and their dog-sleds or little carts in searchi of kindling wood near the shinyards or along high water mark. It runs from Dambourges Street to St. James Street, and provides ample material to the student of the lower aspects of life, as well as to the artist in search of the picturesque that is unique in its presentations. The great angular ledge that shoots into the alley-way, formed a suitable place for the erection of the first of the barricades that impeded Arnold's march on his way to join Montgomery at the foot of Mountain Hill. Between this rock and the second barricade near Adam Lymburner's house. Arnold was wounded in the leg and had to be carried to the rear. The Ramrtarts, extend from the head of Mountain Hill to the site of Palace Gate. They played an important part in the siege of 1775. Carleton had detachments placed 68 TOrOGRAPHICAL NOTES. along the whole line of this roadway, and as the five companies of the enemy passed along the Canoterie and Dog Lane, they received successive volleys from the troops above. The Battery has a commanding position at the south-eastern end of the Ramparts, adjoining the Frontenac Park, which has a history of its own, as the site of the former Parliament Buildings, and previous to that as the site of the Bishop's Palace which once overlooked Prescott Gate. The Intendant's Palace was situated at the foot of Palace Hill, there being still some remnants of its original walls to be seen within the precincts of what is called Bos- well's Brewery. It was a spacious buiFding extending over what would now constitute two or three blocks, having an enclosed frontage laid out in parterres that ran towards the St. Charles. Strange that the site should originally have been occupied by a brewery as it is now. This first brewery was built by Intendant Talon in 1655, and was removed by his successor in office, Intendant de Meules, who at his own expense erected the first group of buildings that went by the name of the "Palais." These were destroyed during their occupancy by Intendant Begon. The structures were, however, rebuilt a few years after on even a larger scale than before, with the main entrance a little within the line of St. Valier Street; and when it was finished no less than twenty buildings were grouped round the main structure, including the goverri- TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 69 ment offices and the notorious L one, nor wanted with him anyone who went with reluctance. His words recalled the officers to their duty, but the incident hurried Montgomery into a resolution to attempt gaining Quebec before the first of January, when his legal authority would cease." >i THE EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. J. M; HARPER, Author of " Our Jeames," etc. DEDICATED TO PRINCE GEORGE, DUKE OF CORNWALL AND YORK, ON THK OCCASION OF Hls Visit to Canada In 1901, PREFATORY NOTE. The success of the first of these historical booklets which has now reached its third edition, has encouraged the author to place in the hands of the public another of the series. The plan of the present work, as of the other, is more for the student of Canadian history in his novitiate, than for the critic who thinks that everything should be written up to his high standard of liter- ary excellence. Indeed the verdict, on such elementary works as those of this series that is likely to be thought the most of, is the verdict that has been matured by noticing the character of the effect produced. If our young people are to become the pos- sessors of the true patriotism that comes from knowledge and not from unthinking excitement, the knowledge that begets the true patriotism, if it is to be attractive, must be presented, as is attempted in these historical hrochiircs, in the simplest phrase- ology and literary style. THE EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. Britain's claim to Canadian territory has been established by discovery as well as by conquest; and to John Cabot, the Venetian, sailing from Bristol under the auspices of the King of England, is due the honour of having set up on the shores of the western continent the standard of prior possession in behalf of England in 1497. The success of Columbus had hardly been noised abroad among the nations, when this naturalized citizen of Venice found his way to England with his wife and three sons, to lay before Henry VII. his plans in connection with transatlan- tic discovery and exploration. He was skilled as a chart -maker, and had proved his enterprise as a merchant, as well as his hardihood as a navigator, during sundry voyages in the Orient. The b EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. (late of his arrival in England is not definitely known ; but it is on record that he was permitted to lay his pro- posals before the King in 1495., and that he succeeded in securing his commission a year later. One cannot but smile at the manner of his arguments before the king, as the envoy of the Duke of Milan has reported it: "But Master John has set his mind on something greater, for he expects to go further on towards the East, w'here he thinks all the spices of the world, and also the precious stones, originate. He says that in former times he was at Mecca, whither spices are brought by caravans from distant countries. Those who brought these spices to market on being asked where they grew, answered that they did not know, but that other caravans came to their homes with such merchandise from distant countries, and these latter caravans again say that they are brought to them from other remote regions. And he argues thus, — that if the Orientals affirmed to the Southern- ers that these things come from a dis- tance from them, and so from hand to hand, presupposing the rotundity of the JOHN CABOT SETS SAIL. earth, it must be that the last ones get them at the north towards the west. And this he said in such a way, that, the king, who is wise and not very lavish, has put some faith in him. and is in- clined to fit out some ships for his use." The patent issued to Cabot gave him warrant to search out unknown lands in the north-western seas, to take formal possession of them in the name of England, to assume the responsibility of the cost of the expedition, and to pay one-fifth of the gain, should there be any, into the king's exchequer. The story of Cabot's memorable voyage comes to us almost in his own words, and is a complete refutal of the historical narratives that have given the honour of discovering the continent of North America to his son Sebastian. In the early part of May, 1497, the expedi- tion set out from Bristol with a com- pany and crew of eighteen men in one small vessel. " Having passed the western limits of Hibernia," as Soncino, the aforesaid envoy, says, *' Master John stood to the northward and began to steer westward, leaving after a few days the north star on his right hand; and 8 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. having- wandered alDOiit considerably, he fell in at last with terra firma, where he planted the royal banner and took pos- session of the territory on behalf of the king." It was not until after the 24th of June, when seven hundred leagues had been traversed, that land was first seen. The exact spot of landing cannot now be ascertained, though it must have been somewhere near the eastern extremity of Cape Breton Island, if a map said to have been drawn by Sebastian Cabot, wdio could hardly have been of the expedition unless as a stripling, is to be believed. There is no authentic evi- dence, beyond Sebastian's own state- ment, that he shared in the expedition of 1497, and there are grave reasons for suspecting that the son, who afterwards made such a distinguished name for himself in other undertakings, was little inclined to make too much of his father's renown, while vaunting his own. After taking possession of the New Lands, as they were at first called, in the name of the King of England, ihe navigator made a voyage along the DISCOVERY OF PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 'J coast line of the newly discovered terri- tory, though there is no chart extant that indicates the direction he took. Soncino, who evidently had all he tells us about the expedition from John Cabot's own lips, says that Master John, as he calls him, had the description of the world in a chart, and also in a solid globe made by himself, from which he could show where he landed, and the lands toward the east which he had passed considerably beyond the terra prima vista. There is further evidence that it was the father and not the son who discovered what is now called Prince Edward Island, if that province and Cape Breton are to be identified as the two islands which the former is said to have seen on his starboard, as he turned his prow homewards from the extreme limits of his voyage, when his provisions began to run low. On his return much was made of both discovery and discoverer. The mer- chants of Bristol readily put their faith in the Venetian, as did also the king. He had brought back with him no tangible evidences of abounding wealth. But he was able to report that the lands that 10 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. he had visited were temperate in cHmate and yet warm enough for the cultivation of silk, wooded w'ith deep groves of what looked like Brazil wood, and having sea-waters alive with fish of every kind. '' I have heard Master John and his comrades declare," says Soncino, "that there can be brought home from the New Lands so many fish that the king- dom will no longer have any need of Iceland, from which our greatest stores of stock-fish come." The king made a present of money to the navigator, and executed an agreement to pay him a pension chargeable to the seaport of Bristol ; and we are told that under circumstances thus improved the ex- plorer, with a vanity ill-concealed, at once assumed the bearing of a gentle- man, dressing himself in silk, and ac- cepting the courtesy of the title of admiral. With his globe and chart in hand, and making the most of his argu- ment that the wealth of the east was of a surety to be found by sailing westward, a second expedition was favourably discussed and finally agreed upon. ''His Majesty will fit out some ships in spring for the said Master John," says his ENCOURAGEMENT TO CABOT. 11 friend Soncino, "and will besides give him several convicts. They will go to the new country, to make a colony of it, and by means of trading with it, a greater storehouse of spices will be established in London than the one that now exists in Alexandria." While the second expedition, consist- ing of six vessels and as many men as were willing to go, was on the way of being organized, its prospects were freely discussed in the public places of Bristol and London, where Cabot had been welcomed as the most renowned man of his day. The hopes of the nation were in a flutter over his discoveries. We are told that the chief men of the enterprise were of Bristol, great sailors, who felt at their ease about it as an in- vestment, since the voyage was only one of fifteen days and the storms less frequent beyond Hibernia than in the narrower seas nearer home. The ab- surdity of some of the fluttering hopes did not escape the humorous Italian, who has told us so much that is pleasant reading about his friend Master John. 'T have talked with a Burgundian," he says, ''a comrade of Master John, 12 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. who confirms everything he has told me, and wishes to return to the newly discovered country, because the Admi- ral (for so Master John already entitles himself), has given him an island. And he has given another island to a Genoese barber. Both of these gentle- men regard themselves as counts, while my Lord Admiral esteems himself nothing less than a Prince. I think that with this second expedition there will go several poor Italian monks who have all been promised bishoprics. Being a friend of the Admiral's, I am sure, if I wished to go thither, I should get an archbishopric." The second expedition sailed early in May, 1498, and as the charter says, it was under the sole command of John Cabot, none of his sons' names being mentioned. One of the six vessels was forced to put back to Ireland in a dis- abled condition, but strange to say, the records here fail us, and when we next read of the expedition from reports pub- lished some time after, the son's name takes the place of the father's, while only one voyage, the voyage of 1497, is spoken of, with the events, which JOHN CABOT'S SECOND VOYAGE. 13 could only have happened during the second expedition, attached. In a word, the name of John Cabot, except as the father of the distinguished Sebastian Cabot, is not mentioned in any of these later reports, as the discoverer of America. We hear the last of him when he set sail from Bristol in 1498. The following may be taken as the record of the expedition of 1498, though it is culled from reports derived origi- nally from conversations with the son: ''With a company of three hundred men, the little fleet steered its way in the direction of the north-west. In due course the navigators came to a coast running to the north, which they follow- ed to a great distance, and where they found in the month of July large bodies of ice floating in the water, and almost continual daylight. Failing to find the passage sought, they turned their prows, and sought refreshment at Baccalaos (Cape Breton). Thence coasting south- ward, they ran to about the latitude of Gibraltar, still in search of a passage to the wealth of the east, when, their pro- visions failing, they were obliged to return to England. 14 EAELIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. " They landed in several places, saw natives dressed in skins of beasts and making use of copper implements. They found the fish in such great abundance that the progress of the ships was some- times impeded. The bears, which were in great plenty, caught the fish for food, — plunging into the water, fastening their claws into them, and dragging them to shore." Such is all there is to tell of the dis- covery of Canada by John Cabot. How interested we all would be if another of Soncino's quaintly written letters were to turn up to inform us of the final fate of his friend Master John, and thus possibly provide an explana- tion of the remarkable reticence of Master John's distinguished son in regard to the issue of his father's last enterprises. JOHN CABOT'S PREDECESSORS. Christopher Columbus has a claim beyond all others as the discoverer of America ; for if, before his time, there were traditions afloat about the existence of a western con- tinent, these traditions came to light as verified fact only through the enterprise of the great Genoese navigator. That his name should only be associated with por- tions of the continent he discovered is still a matter of historic regret, as it is of still more regret that no place "of importance as yet, by its name, commemorates the dis- coveries made by Cabot. That Amerigo Vespucci, the Florentine, should have had the great honour of having a continent named after him arose from the fact that when his book, describing his voyages to the west, first appeared, the continent had been for fifteen years without a name, and as no one undertook to refute the false assertion that the Florentine, and not the Genoese or Venetian, had first set foot on the mainland, the New Lands came to be known as America. That Sebastian Cabot 16 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CAx\ADA. should not have contradicted Amerigo's story is as much of a marvel as is his remissness in other matters pertaining to his father's renown. The traditions which may or may not have reached the ears of Columbus, before he set sail in 1492, have now taken their place as authentic elements in the history of Canada. The story of Eric the Red is now recognized as the romantic opening chapter in the history of the era of dis- covery in the west. The story, as told by the author of this brochure in his History of the Maritime Provinces of Canada, is as follows : — " While the nations bordering on the Mediterranean were growing rich, giving themselves up to a life of luxury and ease, the Northern tribes of Europe were eking out a scanty livelihood from the fisheries off their coasts, and from the produce of their comparatively barren soil. The con- trast in the manner of living could not, in the nature of human progress, exist long among neighbouring races. The Northmen, desiring a share of the wealth of the South, turned their experience as sailors and fish- ermen to account, and became pirates. " One of these pirates or sea-kings was Eric the Red, who, after amassing con- siderable wealth, attained to some distinc- tion in his native country, Norway. His influence and wealth, however, did not save him from subsequent disgrace and punish- ment ; for, on being found guilty of an VOYAGES OF ERIC THE RED. 17 outrageous murder, committed for a purpose repugnant even to his neighbours, whose only morality was a rude form of chivalry, he was heavily fined, and banished from the land. This took place in the beginning of the tenth century. * " Erie, thus driven from his home, embarked his family and movable property in three ships, and set out for Iceland, — an island well known at this time to the North- men, having been discovered by Gardar, a Swedish navigator, in 853, and colonized by Ingolf, a Norwegian, eleven years after- wards. Here he found a rude republic in existence, and a hardy industrious people labouring to develop the rugged resources which Providence had placed within their reach. But this was not the place in which a man of Eric's self-will and cruel nature could flourish, for, after giving continued annoyance to the inhabitants and authori- ties of the island, he was outlawed a second time, and forced to flee for safety to some less civilized shore. "Again the old viking set sail towards the west. The flshermen of Iceland, in their long voyages, had seen the high snow-bound mountains of a country near the setting sun ; and this knowledge was Eric's only chart, guiding him to the land which he named Greenland, and which he colonized with emi- grants from the island which had banished him. There for many years, he ruled as a king ; there he died. " Eric had three sons, whose names were 18 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. Lief, Thorwold and Thorstein. Chiefly by their industry and example, the colony of Greenland prospered ; but in them the bold restlessness of their father appeared in an oft-repeated desire to set out on some daring expedition. Lief, on returning from Norway, where he had been converted to Christianity, and whence he brought out a number of missionaries, learned that during a voyage to Greenland, an Icelander, named Biorne, had been driven westward by adverse winds, and had there seen the shores of other lands, very different in natural fea- tures from those around Cape Farewell. He at once set out to verify Biorne's statement. " Sailing towards the south-west, he soon descried the land mentioned by Biorne, and there disembarked with several of his crew, intending to investigate the character of the country thoroughly. But the periodic fogs, the scarcity of -vegetation, and the sharp, biting blasts which blew among the numerous icebergs clinging to the shores, cooled the navigator's zeal, and sent him back to his ship, from the deck of which he named the country HdJuJaud, — the land of naked rocks. This was evidently New- foundland. " Still intent on discovery, Lief sailed further south, and in a few days reached another land, flat in surface, sandy in soil, and covered with forests. This, which was probably Nova Scotia, he named Mavldand. Farther in the same direction, he cast EXPLORATION OF WESTERN LANDS. 19 anchor off an island lying some distance from the mainland. With this discovery he was more satisfied than with the others ; for here he found the days and nights nearly equal, the climate mild and genial, and dew upon the grass, which tasted sweet like honey. Thence he proceeded across a tract of water, and arrived at a country intersected with rivers and numerous streams, where fodder for cattle was abund- ant, and the winter comparatively mild. Here he remained for many months to ex- plore the interior, finding grapes and wild maize for a plentiful cargo on his return. He called the country Vhihind, now Massa- chusetts, where both wild grapes and maize covered a large part of the country when it was first colonized by the Puritan fathers. " On Lief's return to Greenland, Thorwald, the second son of Eric, set out in the same ship, and arrived in safety at Vinland, where stood the huts which his brother had erected. In one of his expeditions towards the country lying north of Vinland, he and his companions were attacked by the abori- gines. Having been slain during one of these attacks, his followers buried him near Lief's huts, and returned to Greenland. " Thorstein, the third son, then sailed with his wife and a number of colonists, thinking to settle permanently in the country of Vinland. There he died. His widow, on her return to Greenland, married a man named Thorfinne, and induced him to settle in the land discovered by her 20 EAKLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. brothers. Thorfinne wisely followed her advice, and became rich and prosperous. " Other voyages took place after this, for we are told that Eric, Bishop of Greenland, departed for Vinland, in 1121, for the pur- pose of converting his countrymen, who had fallen away from the Christian faith." Other traditions, more recent in their growth, support the claim that the country was visited by French sailors four years before the first voyage of Columbus, and that Columbus had heard not only of such a visit but was conversant with the story of Eric and his sons. Parkman also tells us that Columbus had learned from one asking to serve under him, in the expedition of 1492, that Cousin, a navigator of Dieppe, being at sea off the African coast, was forced westward by adverse winds and cur- rents to within sight of an unknown shore, where he descried the mouth of a great river. There can be no doubt that the Breton and Basque fishermen were accus- tomed to make annual visits to Baccalaos, as the Cape Breton and Newfoundland fish- ing regions were called by them. There is reason to believe that the fisheries of the Banks of Newfoundland were known even prior to Cabot's time. They were at least frequented in 1577, by French and Spanish fishermen, as many as fifty vessels taking part in the trade in the years immediately preceding Cartier's visits. Early in the six- teenth century a sea captain of Honfleur and another of Dieppe had cruised round PRE-COLUMBIAN INDIANS, 21 the Gulf of St. Lawrence, while Baron de Lery tried to make a settlement on Sable Island in 1578, leaving cattle there which were afterwards of service in keeiDing the colonists, deserted by De la Roche, alive until relief came from France. All these traditions, however, do not detract from the renown of Columbus, Cabot and Cartier, a trio of heroic navigators to be remem- bered with pride by every child of Canada. The Pre-Columbian Indians. The first of the great migrations into Canada ought to be identified with the general Mongolian migration into America from Asia by way of Behring Strait, though the discussion of the possibilities of its ever or never having occurred has no place here. When the French settlers took up the lands on or near- the St. Lawrence or the great lakes, they found small communities of natives scattered all over the country. The manner of living of these tribes, seemingly isolated from one another was very much the same: the fur-bearing animals of the forest pro- vided them with clothing and animal food, — maize, tobacco, and wild fruits being the principal vegetable products they could depend upon. These tribes had wider groupings into families or nations, of which the more important, found in what is now Canadian territory, were the Sioux, the Al- gonquins and the Hurons, The Sioux had their northern home along the Assiniboine and Lake Winnipeg. They included the subsidiary tribes of the western 22 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. parts of Canadian territory, exclusive, moreover, of tlie aborigines of British Co- lumbia, the Eskimos, and the Beothicks of Newfoundland. Preceding these were the " very ancient men" or mound-builders, whose way of living can only be surmised from the relics dug from their burial places. These consist for the most part of speci- mens of rude pottery, some primitive con- trivances in copper, and a few stone implements evidently used in canoe-making and the pursuits of the chase. The Algonquins were to be found along the northern shores of the River and Gulf of St. Lawrence, around the Bay of Fundy, the River Ottawa, and the western shores of Lake Huron. They included the following tribes: the Bersiamites, Montagnais, Attic- amigues, Ottawas, Crees, Ojibaways, Chip- pewas, Abenaquis, Milicetes, Micmacs, etc. The Hurons occupied the peninsula bounded by the first three of the great lakes and included the Iroquois, the Eries, and the Neutral Nations. The Five Nations, — the Mohawks, the Oneidas, Onondagas, Cay- ugas, and Senecas, — were subsidiary cantons of the Iroquois, which as a distinct tribe was also divided up into eight clans, the clanship running through the five nations promiscuously, and confined in no way to the tribal limits. JOHN CABOT'S SUCCESSORS. Sebastian Cabot, the son of John Cabot, who may have accompanied his father on his first voyage of discovery, and whoge name has been erroneously associated with the origin of the second exiiedition to America sanctioned by Henry VH., was born in Venice. The exact date of his birth is uncertain. The first we hear of him is when he accompanied his father to England at the time when the discovery of America by Columbus was producing Its first excitement in Europe. After his father's death, he seems to have arranged with Sir Thomas Pert an expedition in search of a North- west passage, and in which he is said to have discovered the entrance to Hudson's Bay. There are doubts, however, whether such an expedition ever took place. His subsequent career was a cosmopolitan one. At the instance of Charles V. of Spain, by whom he had been made grand pilot, he commanded an expedition to South America. On his return, he was condemned to banishment in Africa, though it cannot be said that the sentence was ever carried out. Then he 24 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANABA. offered his services to his native place, but was unable to make good his promises. In 1546 he returned to England as promoter of a north-east route to China and improved commercial relationships between England and northern ports. Edward VI. granted him a pension for his services to his adopted country, and the bounty was continued by Queen Mary. He died in London, in the year 1557. John Verazzano, whose birth in Florence is dated 1480, has been given historical rank as the most prominent of Cabot's successors, having spent a very busy life as traveller, corsair and explorer under the patronage of the French government. His first great achievement was the capture of a treasure-ship on its way from Mexico to Spain, laden with the spoils of Monte- zuma's wealth, and his safe delivery of it to the King of France. His subsequent explorations of the whole of the eastern coast line from Florida to Newfoundland would have given more colour to the claim which the French subsequently made to the possession of the whole of North America, had the Cabots not been there before him, and had the honesty of his allegations not been impugned. Few of the Florentine's undertakings were above reproach, and it is not strange that there has been a long continued controversy as to the genuineness of Verazzano's letter to the king describing his achievements in the west. One of his o CD a* g3 ft 0) o H VERAZZANO'S CAREET5, 25 last enterprises associated him with Admiral Philippe de Brion-Chabot, Cartier's friend, and some of the prominent merchants of St. Malo. In 1527 a company was formed in which Chabot was interested for the impor- tation of spices from the east. Verazzano was appointed commander of the first expe- dition under terms which did not preclude him from giving hostile attention to any- Spanish merchantmen that should happen to fall in his way. The enterprise was the corsair's last misfortune ; for he was seized as he was passing near the coast of Spain and executed at the little village of Pico, in New Castile. The romance of Verazzano's career has made a hero of him in certain quarters, and tradition has thrown the usual mist of un- certainty around the story of his life. If his own words are to be trusted, he was the first navigator to visit the shores of North Carolina, from thence, with varied experi- ences among the aborigines, passing along the shores of Virginia and Maryland, enter- ing the Bays of New York and Narragansett, the surf-beaten rocks of Maine, and finally visiting the resorts of the Basque fishermen in Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. But as has been said, there are very grave doubts about the truth of this as the Smith-Murphy controversy has revealed. Indeed, Mr. Murphy declares that Verazzano's letter could not have been written by him, that there is no state record of the King of France ever having encouraged the Floren- 26 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. tine, that the description of the coast and some of the pliysical characteristics of tlie country he claimed to have visited and of the manners and customs of its inhabitants is false and evidently written by some one who had no personal experience of the scenes ; and, finally, that Verazzano, at the time of his pretended discovery, was actu- ally engaged in a corsairial expedition sailing under the French flag in a different part of the ocean. And whatever foundation there is for these allegations, the mystery of Cabot's taking off is repeated in the case of Veraz- zano. The record of his execution as a pirate comes from a Spanish source, while Ramusio, the supposed writer of his letter to the king, says that he was killed and eaten by savages in sight of his followers, though Parkman thinks that he was living in Rome at the time when Jacques Cartier was engaged with his explorations in the St. Lawrence. JACQUES CARTIER. In the year 1888, on the fete-day of St. Jean Baptiste, a vast assemblage col- lected on the outskirts of the city of Quebec, at the head of the first winding of the St. Charles, to celebrate the un- veiling of the Jacques Cartier Monu- ment, which had just been erected near the scene of that intrepid sailor's first winter encampment in Canada. It was a day to be remembered. It was the festival of the patron saint of the French- Canadians, as it was also the anniversary of the discovery of the northern part of the American continent by Cabot. It was a day on which the marvellous growth of things in the great Canadian confederation was to be witnessed, not only in the stretching panorama of the prosperous city that 28 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. lilled the eye to the southward, with its busy havens and factories below, and its towering civic, provincial and ecclesi- astical edifices on the hillside beyond, but in the immense throng near by, as well as in the personnel of those who had been called upon to take a leading part in the imposing ceremonies ; for were there not a hundred thousand people present, presided over by the governor- general of a Canada stretching from ocean to ocean, by the first cardinal- archbishop who ever had ecclesiastical sway in the New World, by a Canadian- born lieutenant-governor, and other high dignitaries and officials of the new nation that had had its birth in 1867. The spot on which the monument stands still indicates in its natnra loci the reasons why the sailor of St. Malo chose it for his wintering station. Here the tideway is narrow, and the ebb, which always leaves a broad shore-line, show- ed him how far his little vessels, when anchored in the soft mud, would be safe from the ice dangers of a more open moorage; while the land position gave him isolation from the Stadacona encampments on the great plateau be- caktiee's encampment. 29 yond. Besides, with the little mud- stained Lairet on the one side, and the St. Charles in front, it was a site easily fortified, and this was surely a con- sideration of no little moment for a colony that had to lay its foundations amid the uncertainty of a land hitherto unexplored. The leader of the band of colonists had been in Canada before, but it was only as an explorer and not as a colo- nizer that he had cruised around the shores of the open gulf. He had set sail on his first voyage in 1534 under the auspices of King Francis I. of France, having been selected, on the advice of Philippe de Brion-Chabot, the Admiral of France, as a navigator com- petent to face the dangers of the Atlantic, and brave enough to assert the claim of his royal master to some share of a continent which the Spaniards had come to regard as theirs and theirs only, though Columl^us had never ventured further northward than the Bahamas. Sailing on the 20th day of April, and returning early in the following September, Cartier had only seen the summer aspect of the country. 3D EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. There had been little or no hardship to encounter. In his time, Newfoundland was no terra incognita to Europeans, for after Cabot's memorable voyage in 1497, and Verrazano's expedition in 1524, the valuable fisheries on the great submarine plateaus near the shores of that island had been noised abroad, and more than one Breton fisherman through hope of gain had found his way there. Besides, the visits the skil- ful mariner had made to He St. Jean, Miramichi Bay, Chaleur Bay, and Gaspe Peninsula, were more or less the excur- sions of a yachtsman who never loses the reckoning of a sure way back again. But now there were heavier responsi- bilities to assume. The company he had brought out with him, in his three vessels, was one in which an element of nobility w^as to be found, for, with the forty or fiftv possible settlers that had been induced to accompany him, several gentlemen of note, such as Charles de la Pomeraye, Claude de Pontbriand, and Phillippe Rougemont d'Ambroise, had joined in the colonizing venture, leaving behind them in France, when they sailed, the spirit of expectation in high cartier's marriage. 31 places, which it would be all but a dis- grace to disappoint. On the morning of the i6th of May, 1535, a special service was held in the Cathedral of St. Malo, in honour of the expedition which was to sail in three days' time. Officers and sailors were received by the bishop of the diocese, amid a pressing throng of the fellow- townsmen of the intrepid commander. He had spent forty years of his life, boy and man, amongst them. His grand- father had been a native and life resi- dent of the place, as had also his father, and the day was remembered when the youthful sailor. Jacques Cartier himself, had led to the altar Catherine des Granches, the daughter of the constable of the town, M. Jacques des Granches, who is said to have been a man of means, and a citizen of considerable influence. As a skilful mariner and privateersman Cartier had in course of time acquired some property of his own in St. Malo, having a winter residence in the street which ran past the Hospital of St. Thomas, as well as the chateau out at Limoilou in the outskirts of the town, whose quaint archway and enclosures 32 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OP CANADA. had no doubt become, after the fame of his first voyage, as much an object of interest to the people living in and around St. Malo, as are its picture rep- resentations at the present moment to every Canadian. As a man of means, a skilful seaman, and a citizen of fearless integrity, he had gained the confidence of that high official, the Admiral of France, and even the ear of the king himself; and when the news spread through St. Malo that he had received his commission to make a second voyage across the ocean in search of a new realm for his royal master to govern, he and his companions had naturally become the heroes of the hour. And what a solemn service that must have been in the old Cathedral! Men bold enough to undertake the most dangerous experiment, with their own lives and the lives of others in their hand, and yet humbly submitting themselves to God as they piously besought Him to protect them from the dangers of the deep, and the uncertainties of a region yet to be discovered! At length, con- fession having been made, and a special mass celebrated, Carticr and his com- CARTIER VISITS BELLEISLE. 33 panions left the sacred precincts, and with the blessing of the bishop upon them, gave themselves up to the final preparations for the sailing which took place on the 19th day of May, amid a crowd of anxious onlookers, waving their adieus. The three little vessels, — the largest the Grande Hcnninc, only of a hundred tons burden, and the smallest, the Eiucrillou, a mere pinnace of forty tons, — had hardly lost sight of land when a severe storm scattered them; l)ut so skilfully were they under control, so sure were their captains in their reckon- ing, that thev all met again according to agreement, in the passage of White Sand Island, the Belleisle of to-day. Cautiously hugging the for1:)idding coast- line of Labrador, even now so unlike in its character to its romantic name, they cast anchor for the moment in the estuary of what is known as the St. John's River of Saguenay, on the loth of August. Cartier turning to his cal- endar, found that the loth of August was the fete-day of St. Lawrence, and, at once calling the little haven the Bay of St. Lawrence, afterwards applied the 34 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. same name to the wider sea outside, as he sailed across it in a westward direc- tion, past the great island of Anticosti, which for a similar pious reason he named Assumption. While at Gaspe on his previous voy- age, Cartier had entrapped two of the natives of that region. These he had taken to France with him, and while there they had been able to pick up sufficient French to make themselves intelligible. From them, however, Cartier seems to have kept the inner secret of his expedition, namely the finding of a passage to Asia, until he had passed Assumption, and when he at last broached the subject to them, they could only shake their heads and tell him of the great river they were enter- ing, whose banks rapidly contracted, until, many miles up, the way was inter- rupted by shallows and rapids. And the report of the Indians was soon verified by the freshening of the water as they approached the mouth of the Saguenay, and beheld the wide-spread- ing shore flats laid bare by the ebbing of the tide. Thinking for the moment to explore the great tributary current, THE OUTER ST. LAWRENCE. 35 the navigator turned aside and came in sight of several canoes out hunting seal, which, at first fleeing from his approach, halted and drew nearer, when the voices of the Indians on board the Grande Hcrminc hailed them. After being hospitably entertained by the tribes around Tadoussac, and possibly warned by them against going further up the gorge of the Saguenay, Cartier continu- ed the ascent of the main river, and again came in sight of a number of canoes near an island covered with coiidricrs or hazel-nut trees. The sav- ages in charge of the canoes, were, it seems, out on a whale hunt, and when congratulations had been interchanged the Frenchmen were invited to share in the sport. One of the marine animals taken, which Cartier himself describes as being as shapely in form as a grey- hound, was no doubt the Beluga Catadon, or white whale, whose bones so often turn up in the post-pliocene clay of the St. Lawrence. On leaving the dusky whale-hunters, he w^as inform- ed of the existence of a large Indian settlement called Stadacona situated further up the river, near Ouebeio or 36 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. Quelibec, the narrow place of the waters; and he had not proceeded very far on his upward course, when he was met by the chief of the settlement in the person of Donnacona on his way down to meet the white-faced strangers in their strange-looking vessels. The chief, we are told, addressed them in a set oration, delivered in true native style with many gesticulations and rhetorical mannerisms. It was now near the middle of Sep- tember, and it behooved the explorers to keep their eyes open for a suitable place whereon they might build for themselves a station, at which they should test the rigours of a winter that bound all things up, as they were told, in snow and ice. Taking the channel between a long island and the northern woodland, they anchored near the shore of the former, which Cartier called the He de Bacchus from the abundance of vines that were found growing on its slopes, — a name that has since been changed to the Island of Orleans. The newcomers were soon engaged in exploring the tidal line for a site, and at last entering POSITION OF OLD STADACONA. 37 the curving mouth of the tributary of the St. Lawrence, they selected the memorable site on which, strange to say, the Jesuits ninety years afterwards established their first mission in Canada, and near which the modern village of Stadacona now stands. As was his pious custom, Cartier named the river the St. Croix, — the day on which he arrived in its channel, the 14th of Sep- tember, being the fete for the salutation of the Holy Cross. The stream which is still spoken of as " the Little River," received the name of the St. Charles from the Jesuits in 1625, in honour of M. Charles de Boues, a benefactor of their order. The old Stadacona over which Don- nacona held sway was situated on the great rock plateau to the south along its northern edge near what is now known as the Ramparts; and on the day the French arrived, a friendly demon- stration was made by its inhabitants as they crowded out to the tongue of land now known as Hare Point. Donna- cona himself, however, kept aloof from the rejoicings, and the two natives, whom Cartier had taken to France, also 38 EAKLIEST BEGINNINGS 01* CANADA. kept out of the way, as if repentant of their friendly relations with the French commander. Among the confidences between them and the chief, the ex- plorer's purpose to sail further up the river, even as far as the great Hoche- laga, had leaked out, and since such a voyage seems to have been looked upon by Donnacona as an indirect interfer- ence with his personal interests, he determined to throw every obstacle in the way of the venture. Even after a friendly compact had been struck be- tween Cartier and Donnacona's own subjects, and the two natives who had sailed with the expedition from France had returned to the ships, and every- thing was ready on board the Emerillon to sail from Quebec, the old chief thought to deter Cartier by pretending to call to his assistance the demons which were supposed even by the French themselves to fill the forests around. Dressing up several of his tribe as devils from Hochelaga, repre- sentatives of the great spirit Cudraguy of the upper St. Lawrence, he brought them into the commander's presence. But the drama with its blood curdling THE ST. LAWRENCE IN AUTUMN. 39 whoopings, and its threatening antics was only a drama with Cartier, and on the third day, leaving his two ships in the safe-keeping of a sufihcient garrison, he set sail with fifty of his men past the towering rock of Quebec, variegated with all the deep-toned tints of early autumn. Those who have sailed on the St. Lawrence for miles, must have noticed the many stretches of shore line that have remained unchanged since Cartier's time, save for the cutting of the heavier timber. As one passes these stretches, it needs but little effort of the imagina- tion to picture the feelings of the mariner of St. Malo and his companions as they proceeded on their western course towards what seemed always to be in their minds, the great eastern continent of Cathay and its mythical limits. The maples were beginning to bespangle the woods with their crimson and gold, and the great oaks and birches and stately poplars were interlining the evergreen of the forest with a relieving streak of sepia. The majesty of the great stream must have been a continual source of marvel to the strangers, as 40 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. new vistas of water and woodland revealed themselves beyond every curv- ing headland. Tacking- by day, and anchoring by night, the little Emcrillon fought its way bravely against the cur- rent, and half the distance between Stadacona and Hochelaga had been accomplished without mishap. But beyond the large treble-mouthed tribu- tary, now known as the St. Maurice, the St. Lawrence widens out into one of its greater expansions, and before the chan- nel was improved for vessels seeking an inner port beyond, the upper end of this expansion was interrupted by rapids impassable to a vessel of heavy draught. The Emcrillon was only forty tons burden, but Cartier thought it best to leave her at anchorage near the shore of Lake Angouleme (St. Peter) and pursue his investigations in the two boats that had been towed from Quebec. At length, after a thirteen days' voyage, the Frenchmen came in sight of the hill of Hochelaga. They landed at a creek which they called St. Mary's, three miles from the village itself, and, news of their arrival instantly spreading, crowds of natives, bringing with them HOCHELAGA PROSPEROUS. 41 supplies of food, and other tokens of good-will, came from all parts of the island to greet the pale-faced strangers. And the reception which Cartier receiv- ed when once he was taken to the Indian capital, is as interesting to read as any story ever told. Hochelaga was only one of many villages on the island, as Cartier very soon learned. It was however the largest of these, containing about fifteen hundred people, and being the residence of the most influential of the chiefs. What tribe the inhabitants were of there is now no means of definitely ascertaining, since every vestige of the settlement had disappeared when Cham- plain made his famous visit to the local- ity in 1611. At the time of Cartier's visit the place was certainly at the high tide of its prosperity — as prosperity goes among the Indian tribes. The village itself was situated on a fertile plain with tillage carried to the very foot of the rising ground behind it. The pathway leading from St. Mary's was well beaten and ran easy of access through the level fields, that still bore traces of having yielded rich harvests of 42 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. maize, and were bordered by groves of great oak trees as pleasant to look upon as any in France. On the way towards the village, the Frenchmen were met half-way by one of ithe chiefs, who, causing a fire to be lighted by the road- side, invited his guests to be seated around it, while listening to an elabo- rate harangue of welcome ; and as a return Cartier presented the chief with a couple of axes and knives, not forget- ting a crucifix which he hung round the swarthy heathen's neck and made him kiss. Then came the final march to the village. The place was circular in plan with a triple palisade fence running all around it. There was but one entrance, a gateway guarded by moveable barriers, while at intervals on the inner side of the wall were erected platforms, near which were heaped mounds of stones and pebbles as ammunition against possible besiegers. In the centre was placed the public square or assembly ground, around which were grouped the dwel- lings or birch bark houses. The wigwam of nomadic life had, for the time, given way to the tenement of per- THE AGE OF STONE. 43 manent abode, for Cartier, in describing one of the houses, says it was a building of about a hundred and fifty feet in length and forty-five in breadth, con- structed of a wooden frame covered with great pieces of bark sewed together, and divided up into halls and chambers, for the accommodation of single fami- lies. Above these were arranged rooms for the harvests of grain and roots, while, within the groups of tenements, wide courtyards were enclosed and covered in, where groups of families did their cooking and lived in common during the day. It was the Age of Stone and community of property with the Hochelagans in 1534. Their weapons and industrial implements were made of the native rock, and, as Cartier further says, content to earn a living by farming and fishing, they made no account of the luxuries of this life, because they had no knowledge of them around their permanent home near the mountain. There was a hurried crowding of the villagers from all parts when Cartier and his followers were conducted within the central square. The matrons 44 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. and maidens, with children in their arms, pressed forward to kiss the strangers, and, weeping for joy, besought them to touch the children by way of a blessing. Such men as these must be skilled medicine-men, the direct agents of Manitou perhaps, and forthwith the sick, the blind and the impotent were brought to the commander with the request that he would lay his hands upon them and heal them. And among these came old Agouhanna him- self, the palsied " lord and king of the country," who, approaching the com- pany of explorers on the shoulders of nine or ten of his subjects, took the por- cupine-woven wreath of royalty from his head with trembling hands and placed it upon Cartier's brow, beseeching him to touch his shrunken limbs and make him whole. Manitou was surely come. God had descended from heaven. The age of St. Peter and St. Paul was repeat- ing itself in the presence of the good Catholics of St. Malo. And what was the leader to do since the virtue of healing was no element of his piety? What could he do, but make the sign of the cross, recite a portion of the gospel of CARTIER ON MOUNT ROYAL. 45 St. John, and with service book in hand read the "Passion of Christ" from beginning to end ? To the reHgious ceremony — the first Christian service ever held in Canada, — the natives attended with the stoicism of their race, and when it was ended made merry, Hke children, over the distribution of hatchets, knives and trinkets, and the flourish of trumpets that followed. It was a momentous day for Hochelaga, a momentous day for Canada. And when Cartier afterwards ascended Mount Royal and beheld the magnifi- cent view of hill and plain, of river and island, that spread out before his gaze, there was in the interest it excited in him and his companions a prognostic of the time when Mount Royal would give its name to Montreal and preserve in that great metropolis the prestige which once pointed out Hochelaga as the largest and most important centre of population in the country. When Cartier returned to Quebec, the nights were beginning to tell of the approach of winter. During his absence the men he had left behind had erected a rude fortification and sur- 46 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA.. mounted it with some of the pieces of artillery taken from the vessels. There was no immediate necessity for the action, for the residents of Stadacona were peaceable and friendly. They were present in numbers to receive the commander on his return, and friendly visits were interchanged until winter came, between the little settlement of the St. Croix and the encampment on the hill a mile' away. Even in Decem- ber, when the eastern blizzards and piercing north winds kept the thinly clad Frenchmen within their camp to huddle round the fire, the natives would push their way through the deep snow- drifts to give greeting to the prisoners within, or bring them presents of food. At length these visits suddenly ceased, and Cartier was not to know the cause until the plague of scurvy had run its course through the Indian encampment and had made a prey of his own little community. This painful disease, so often spoken of as the sailor's malady, is induced chiefly by prolonged priva- tion from fresh vegetable and animal food. Emaciation, followed by loathsome skin discolourings and dysentery, ending NEED FOE A CLERGYMAN. 47 in death from exhaustion, is its usual course; and when Cartier saw his com- panions become its victims day by day "his heart was moved with compassion and his soul filled with sore distress." More than once the navigator regret- ted that there was no priest among his band of pioneers. The natives of Hochelaga, as has been indicated, were ready to meet half-way anv missionary enterprise in their behalf. ' They had virtually used the praver of the Psalmist in Cartier's hearing, ''Cause us to know thy way that we may walk therein." And just as religiously inclined had he found the natives of Stadacona.- It would prob- ably be difficult to get them to give up their practice of scouring the woods for the scalps of their enemies, — for these emblems of torturing victory were common enough around their dwellings. But they had earnestlv desired to be baptized according to the Christian forms, and but for the insurmoimtable prejudices against a man, even of Cartier's orthodoxy, assuming the pro- fessional duties of the clerical of^ce. the sympathetic mariner might have follow- ed up his efforts as a lay preacher, by 48 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. organizing a mission amongst them. All he could do, however, was to pro- mise them "a man of God" in his next expedition, and to continue to regret, on his own account, that no father of religion was near by to give consolation and absolution to his poor disease- stricken companions as they continued to die before his eyes. The day without hope had come upon the expedition. Even the lengthening days of February had in them no breath of spring. Twenty-five of the pioneers had succumbed to their sufferings, and the living left behind had barely strength enough to scoop out the neces- sary graves for them in the snow wreaths without. At any moment the Indians might descend upon the wretch- ed camp and make an end of it, as they had of the abandoned Petite H ermine. They had been seen hovering around as if to spy out the condition of affairs; and, to deceive them, Cartier had caused a great clamouring to be made within as of men too busy at work to give heed to anything without. At length a special and united appeal was made directly to heaven. They :3 o o Q rO A SHORT PILGRIMAGE. 49 would brave the spying of the Indians, and make a procession to the slope over which the great cross now extends its arms in front of the monument. Plac- ing the picture of the Virgin Mary in a shrine rudely constructed near a great tree, Cartier led his companions forth on the shortest of pilgrimages to salute the Mother of Heaven and to beseech her intercession. There was no priest to celebrate mass, as there was on the great day of commemoration in 1888, but while his emaciated and death- stricken followers knelt tremblingly in the snow in presence of the image, the commander read aloud the prayers for the sick and distressed, and extracts from the Psalms. It was a terrible ordeal for them all, and when young- Philippe Rougemont died that night, it seemed for the moment as if even heaven had deserted them. At last, one morning while walking by the river, Cartier, who had puzzled over the fell disease even to the point of holding an autopsy on poor Philippe Rougemont's body, was informed by an Indian that anicda was a sure cure for the disease which was threatening his 50 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. camp with extinction. And what this amcda was the elated explorer was not long in finding out and applying as a remedy to his sick comrades. The medicine was a simple decoction of the leaves of a variety of spruce, and, as Cartier mirthfully says, so marvellous w^ere its curative effects that in six days the men had drunk "a tree as large as a French oak." When the advent of spring had thawed the icicles from the palisades of the little fort, hope had come back to the pioneers, though it was a hope that led them to prepare for their return voyage to France. The marvellous tales they had heard from the natives of a land abounding in gold and precious stones that lay beyond Hochelaga, had no influence with men who had endured so much in one season. The coloniza- tion of the country was only for an expedition better equipped than theirs had been. Such an expedition might be arranged for next year. In the meantime the summer scents of la belle Franee was what they longed for, and the sooner the return voyage began the better. CARTIER RETURNS. 51 Even Cartier himself made no effort to delay the return to France. The rivers teemed with fish and the forest with fur-bearing animals, and here and there patches of fertility were to be seen in the meadows and around the Indian clearings ; but all these sources of wealth would keep, and hence he encouraged his followers to have everything ready for the return voyage on the 6th of May. On Holy Rood Day he set up a cross, with some show of ceremony, and to it afftxed the superscription, in Latin, "Francis I. reigns King of the French, by the grace of God." The last incident of this memorable winter's sojourn in New France, throws an unfavorable light, it is thought, upon the integrity of the commander. Don- nacona and his subjects had told him many marvellous stories about the wealth of the country far to the west, and Cartier, no doubt anxious that his royal master should hear these tales di- rectly corrt)borated, determined to seize the old chief and carry him to France ac- companied by one or two of his tribes- men. In pursuance of this object he caus- ed the king of Stadacdna to be seized and 52 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. carried on board just as the vessels were weighing anchor, resisting the piteous importunities of the natives, as they crowded on the shore and offered ransom for their ruler. But when it is known that Donnacona himself assured his subjects, as they -persevered in fol- lowing up with their canoes the departing vessels as far as the lie aiix Condrcs, that he was willing to go and would assuredly return to them, Cartier's conduct may be somewhat ex- cused. Indeed, before the Frenchmen left with their captives, the tribesmen of Stadacona made peace with the com- mander, and, as a free gift, presented him with the ransom they had offered for their king, consisting of .valuable bundles of beaver skins, a great wam- pum belt, and a red copper knife from the Saguenay. Thus ended Cartier's second voyage. Though unpropitious weather detained him at the mouth of the river and in the gulf, he was able to visit Gaspe again, and greet the great cross he had set up the year before. He also visited Brion Island of the Magdalen group, and explored the southern coast of New- cartier's first voyage. 53 foundland. Finally he left Cape Race on the 1 6th of June, and, after an un- eventful voyage across the Atlantic, arrived at St. Malo on the first of July, 1536. Cartier's First Voyage liad taken place a year before the date of the above recorded expedition and ten years after John Verazzano, the Florentine navigator, had by his alleged transatlantic discover- ies under the auspices of Francis I. given the French a seeming claim to the contin- ent of America. During these ten years the wars in which France was engaged made the corsair's occupation a busy and remunerative one ; and it was only when the Treaty of Cambrai brought about peace that the navigators of the period, with their occupation as privateersmen virtually gone, turned their attention to schemes of ex- ploration beyond the seas, in the territory which had been called since Cabot's time the New Lands. As one of these sons of hardihood, Cartier had made friends with Philippe de Brion-Chabot, the Admiral of France and boon com_panion of the king, and, when the war came to an end, he had, through such a prominent courtier, suffi- cient influence at court to secure a commis- sion to follow up Verazzano's explorations. He received such a commission in 1533, and set sail on the 20th of April, 1534. The voyage across was a speedy one, since he 54 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. reached Cape Bonavista on the 10th of May. The command included two vessels of fifty tons each and a company of one hundred and sixty-two men. After a delay of ten days, the explorers sailed northwards to the Island of Birds, where they amused themselves by firing into the thick fiocks of sea-fowl, and by watching a large bear as it fearlessly swam out to devour the vic- tim.s. But sterner work w?s in store for them, when the ice baffled their attempts to enter the Straits of Belleisle, and drove them to take doubtful shelter in one of the small harbours of the Labrador coast, which Cartier, in honour of the most westerly sea- port of France, named Port Brest. The fact that Port Brest was visited by a trad- ing vessel from Rochelle, while Cartier's exploring parties were investigating the neighbouring shores, goes to show that the St. Malo navigator was as yet in no un- known land. Even from the days of Cabot, fishermen were to be found on the great fishing grounds of the Banks of New- foundland, as may be read of, on another page. With the aid of a map, the reader can follow with increasing interest the course pursued by Cartier after he had passed through the straits to the open gulf be- yond. His exploring parties had located and named several of the small harbours on the Labrador coast, such as St. Anthony, St. Servans, and St. John River ; but the reports brought back from these places CARTIER IN THE GULF. 55 were all of the same kind : " The land was so forbidding in its appearance that it could hardly be other than the land allotted to Cain." The explorers reported that the country was not uninhabited, but the sav- ages they had caught sight of were said to be so "wild and unruly, hailing from the mainland out of warmer regions," as to be altogether unworthy closer attention. The first object of interest, after the ex- plorers had sailed from Port Brest, past Point Rich and Cape Aiguille, was the Bird Rocks which lie to the north-east of the Magdalen group, and whose steep whitened sea-walls, the home of the ganet and gull, continue to excite the attention of the pass- engers of our modern ocean steamships, as much as they did the followers of Cartier from the poops of their fifty-ton caravels. Not far from the Bird Rocks is Brion Island — a name given by Cartier in honour of his patron, which still indicates it — and this the navigator describes as a place "six miles long, and full of beautiful trees, mea- dows and flowers, though the shores are guarded by sea monsters with tusks as large as elephants." From Brion Island the explorers pass'ed to another island "very high and pointed at one end," which cannot but be identified as the Prince Edward Island of to-day ; and the yachtsman who has lingered in sight of the sand-dunes and sheltering bays, in the safe waters of the north shore of that province, can bear wit- ness to the terrorless nature of the scene. 56 EAKL1E8T BEGINNINGS OF CANADA, It was not until the vessels had anchored in Miramichi Bay (Bay of Boats) that there seemed to be any danger. Here the native Micmacs came out in a great fleet of canoes, and crowded around the new comers so im- pedingly, that Cartier had to fire a cannon to keep them at a safe distance. On the 8th of July, the two little vessels entered the wide mouth of the Bay Chaleur, and when they had crossed to the other side, the explorers again made acquaintance with the aborigines, though these were less threatening in their attitude, and evidently belonged to a different tribe. But Chaleur Bay gave as little evidence of its being a possible channel through the land to the longed-for Cathay as had the Bay of Boats; and when anchorage had been found near the entrance to Gaspe Basin, the mariner of St. Malo, being now, at least, where no European had ever been before, decided to take possession of the only prize within his reach. Cathay with its fabulous re- sources, or even the way to it, was little likely to be found during what there was left of the summer months, and it was time for the grateful commander to be doing som_ething for his royal master. There was only one prize to be had, and rough and valueless as it seemed, there was nothing left for him but to take possession of it in the name of Francis I. of France. The day on which the ceremony took place was the 24th of July. A large white cross, thirty feet high, with a shield at- CAKTIER CLAIMS THE COUNTRY. 57 taclied, was erected in presence of the ships' crews and tlie assembled natives. The escutcheon had engraved upon it the fleur- de-lis (the blossom emblem of France) and the words " Vive le Roi de Prance." When the cross was firmly placed, the French- men knelt around it, and with an "Ave" from the lips of their leader, laid claim to the territory near and beyond, in the name of their king and country. The ceremony was so simple and unmistakable in its sig- nificance, that the natives knew enough of it to protest against the taking of their country from them. Even the old chief, accompanied by his two sons, seconded the protest in person on board of Cartier's ves- sel. We are not told how Cartier replied to the protest, but 'his followers set them- selves to appease the father by decorating the sons with white shirts, coloured jerseys, and red caps, flinging around their necks glittering brass chains and amusing them in sundry other ways. The effect produced seemed to please alike the old corsair of St. Malo, and the Souriquois chief. Indeed the boys were so taken with their new friends that they elected to remain with them for the night while their fathers went on shore, and when Cartier set sail next morning two specimens of " native flesh and blood" were safe on their way to France as presents for His Most Gracious Majesty the King. That is all that came of Cartier's first voyage. The route to the Orient by the 58 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. west had not been discovered ; nor did the navigator find out till afterwards how near he had been to the mouth of the great river it was his to navigate in the subsequent year, and in connection with which his name has com.e to be immortalized in the history Of Canada. Cartier's Third Voyage is the prelude to Roberval's attempt at colonization at Cap Rouge in 1542. Five years had gone by since Cartier's return from his second voyage. As a cause for this, some have blamed the St. Malo navigator for having circulated a poor report of the country, yet unappeased cupidity on the part of king and courtiers had perhaps more to do with the neglect than anything else. The way to the east had not been found by way of the west, and no treasures of gold and pre- cious stones had made up for the mishap. The king, however, was at last roused to listen again to his master pilot and his patrons. On the 15th of January, 1540, Jean Prangois de la Roche, Sieur de Roberval, a nobleman of Picardy, was created Viceroy and Lieutenant-General of Canada, Hoche- laga, Saguenay, Newfoundland, Belleisle, Labrador and Baccalaos. These names are significant. Cartier had evidently not lost heart, and the news soon reacihed St. Malo that he had been appointed captain-general and master pilot of the expedition to fol- lovv^. For this expedition five vessels were soon on the stocks at St. Malo, built with CARTIEU'S EETURX TO CANADA. 59 the approval of king and viceroy and under the eye of the captain-general. The object of the voyage is expressly given in the words of the report, namely, that " they might discover more than was done in some voyages, and attain if possible to a know- ledge of the country of the Saguenay, whereof the people brought by Cartier, as is declared, mentioned to the king tliat there were great riches and very good lands." Only three of the ships would be ready, it seems, to sail early in May and the king, impatient at the delay — for in the light of the Pope's Bull which granted all America to the Spaniards, there had been some in- ternational trouble over the matter — order- ed Roberval to send Cartier forward at once. Cartier thereupon set sail on May 23rd, 1541. His intention was to visit Stadacona and the St. Croix again for purposes of settle- ment as well as exploration. But the de- lays of his departure pursued him. Storms beset every mile of his way across the ocean, and over three months had passed before he could make the turn of the chan- nel past the Island of Bacchus, or hold his first reception with the natives as they crowded round his ships to hear of their chief Donnacona and the others. Cartier had to tell them that Donnacona was dead, but, to appease with a subterfuge, he led them to infer that the others were doing well and living luxuriously in Prance, whereas all of them had died except one little girl. Agona, the new chief, pretend- 60 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. ing to believe all that Cartier told them, took the leather crown or Indian fillet from his own head and placed it on the head of the captain-general, adorning at the same time his wrists with bracelets. Tliere were some acclamations of joy during the ceremony, but reciprocal distrust found its way alike into the 'heart of savages and Frenchmen, and, in view of such, there was nothing strange in Cartier's selecting an- other site for a wintering encampment fur- ther up the river, away from Stadacona. Sailing up the St. Lawrence one still sees, nine miles from Quebec, a strange-looking gap in the river's northern bank. Through the gap tliere is an entrance to the valley of the St. Charles so well defined that many believe that the St. Lawrence must have passed that way in prehistoric times. Be this as it may, the north-eastern embank- ment presents almost as prepossessing a site for a city as Cape Diamond itself, and no doubt Cartier saw its suitableness as such when he sailed up the river away from his former allies. With a fort above and a fort below, there was ample safety for his encampment, until Roberval should appear upon the scene and the buildings for the proposed capital were fairly under way. For the first day or two there was very little done. The tropical heat of August was not favourable to hard work, and the pioneers gave themselves up to little ex- ploration parties in search of what was in everyone's mind, the riches of the East, CHAKLESBOURG ROYAL. 61 The irregular quartz crystals found in the surface deposits of the cliff and the yellow scales of pyrites found in the slaty forma- tions fostered in them the notion that such a search would not be in vain. Even Car- tier was of the same opinion. And when the forts had been completed, the captain- general left the encampment in charge of Viscomte de Beaupre, master of one of the vessels, as he went off on a visit up the river to Hochelaga. The news of Cartier's third arrival in the country had already been carried to Hoche- laga, but when the explorer reached the place with the intention of surmounting the rapids above, under the guidance of his friends of Mount Royal, he found that they had been put on their guard against him. He was even told that their chief had gone to Quebec to plot against him with the chief of Stadacona. Under suc'h circum- stances he could only think of returning to Cap Rouge. To place a hostile tribe be- tween him and his capital would be sui- cidal. Before turning his back on Mount Royal, however, he is said to have sur- mounted the Lachine Rapids by careful por- taging, and to have reached the mouth of the Ottav/a. Meanwhile, what of Roberval ? Had he arrived at Charlesbourg Royal, as the en- campment at Cap Rouge had been named ? Before Cartier left for Hochelaga he had sent two of his captains back to France, and these had been met by Roberval in 62 EAKLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. Newfoundland on his way out. No mess- age of his superior officer's arrival, how- ever, could have yet reached Cartier's ears. The blustering winds of October were be- ginning to sweep across the vast expanses of the mig'hty river he had discovered and with which he was now becoming familiar, as he traversed it on his return, to meet his associate. What was to be the out- come of his present enterprise ? Would Charlesbourg Royal meet the same fate as the settlement at St. Croix ? Was there to be discontent or co-operation ? Was Roberval a man of whom to be jealous ? Would he be waiting at Cap Rouge to give him welcome ? There are two sides to the story of the quarrel between Roberval and Cartier. Whether they passed the winter of 1541 at Cap Rouge in the same encampment or not, it i^ in^possible to siy. They were certainly both in Ccinada during that winter, the date of Roberval's departure from France at- tested by the official record proving this ; and there could therefore have been no meeting of the two at St. John's, Newfound- land, — the one coming from France, and the other sailing for France. Roberval set sail from Honfleur on the 22nd of Aug- ust, 1541, and not, as Hakluyt says," from Rochelle on the 14th of April, 1642. In a word, Cartier and Roberval arrived in Can- ada the same year, and the story of their quarrel as told by Parkman and others is one of those myths which history finds it so difficult to miss repeating. CARTIER AND EOBERYAL. 63 The fleets, as atte.^ted by lately discovered documents, are these. Cartier set sail on the 23rd of May, 1541. In the month of July following, the king complained to par- liament of Roberval's delay in following up his master pilot. On the 18th of August Roberval sent a message from Honfleur that he would sail from that port for America in four days, and the official record proves that he kept his word. Thus it is clearly proved that Roberval did not delay a whole year in joining the proposed colony in New France, but arrived at Quebec in the aut- umn of 1541, sending from that place two of his vessels back to France, as Cartier had done a month or so earlier. Whether he was at Cap Rouge when Cartier returned from his visit up the river or not cannot now be known. There is no evidence, however, that the lieutenant-general anc captain-general had an open rupture, and the fact that the king subsequently extend- ed his favor to Cartier, is almost conclusive that the failure of Roberval's scheme of colonization was not to be traced to Car- tier's jealousy, but to the discontent and disaffection of the colonists. If there had been any foundation for the story, Cartier would hardly have been the man selected to go out on a fourth voyage to Canada to bring Roberval home in 1543. The fate of Charlesbourg Royal as locat- ed by Cartier is mixed up with the fate of France Royale, the name given to Roberval's settlement. Parkman takes for granted 64 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. that the two places are one and the same, and locating them both at Cap Rouge thus describes Roberval's regime with a free pen : — " Roberval held his course up the St. Lawrence, and dropped anchor before the heights of Cap Rouge. His company land- ed; there were bivouacs along the strand, a hubbub of pick and spade, axe, saw and hammer ; and soon in the wilderness up rose a goodly structure, half barrack, half castle, with two towers, two spacious halls, a kitchen, chambers, store-rooms, work- shops, cellars, garrets, a well, an oven and two water-mills. It stood on that bold acclivity Where Cartier had before en- trenched himself, the St. Lawrence in front, and, on the right, the river of Cap Rouge. Here all the colony housed under the same roof, like one of the experimental communi- ties of recent days, — officers, soldiers, no- bles, artisans, labourers, and convicts, with the women and children, in whom lay the future of New France. " Experience and forecast had alike been wanting. There were storehouses, but no stores; mills, but no grist; an ample oven, and a woeful dearth of bread. It was only when two of the ships had sailed for France that they took account of their provision and discovered its lamentable shortcoming. Winter and famine followed. They bought fish from the Indians, dug roots and boiled them in whale oil. Disease broke out, and, before spring, killed one third of the col- SETTLEMENT OF CAP ROUGE. 65 oiiy. The rest would have quarrelled, mu- tinied, and otherwise aggravated their In- evitable woes, but disorder was dangerous under the iron rule of the inexorable Rober- val. Michel Gaillon was detected in a petty theft, and forthwith hanged. Jean de Nantes, for a mere venial offence, was kept in irons. The quarrels of men, the scolding of women, were alike requited at the whipping-post, 'by which means/ quaintly says the narrative, ' they lived in peace.' Thevet, while calling himself the intimate friend of the viceroy, gives to his history a darker colouring. Forced to un- ceasing labour, and chafed by arbitrary rules, some of the soldiers fell under his displea- sure, and six of them, formerly his favour- ites, were hanged in one day. Others were banished to an island, and there held in fetters ; while for various light offences several, both m_en and women, were shot. Even the Indians were moved to pity, and wept at the sight of their woes. "And here, midway, our guide deserts us ; the ancient narrative is broken, and the lattei part is lost, leaving us to divine as best we may, the future of the ill-starred colony. That it did not long survive is certain. It is said that the king, in great need of Roberval, sent Cartier to bring him home. It is said, too, that in after years, the viceroy essayed to repossess him- self of his transatlantic domain and lost his life in his attempt. Thevet, on the other hand, with ample means of learning 66 EAKLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. the truth afRrms that Roberval was slain at night, near the Church of the Innocents, in the heart of Paris." The last we hear of Jacques Cartier Is when he and Roberval were summoned to appear before the king, after Cartier had brought the latter back from, Canada. Ke continued to live in St. Malo until the da.y of his death, which probably occurred iii 1555. Cartier's Successors. — Some two miles above the port of Dartmouth in England, as Anthony Froude the historian tells us, there has stood for centuries the manor- house of Greenway, on a projecting angle of land which runs out into the river at the head of one of its most beautiful reaches. The water runs deep all the way to it from the sea and the largest vessels may ride with safety within a stone's throw of the windows. Here it was, that three little boys, who were afterwards to have their names known as navigators were wont to play as sailors, — in the summer evenings doubtless rowing down with the tide to the port to marvel at the quaint figure-heads and carved prows of the ships which thronged it, or climbing on board, and lis- tening with beating hearts to the mariners' tales of the lands beyond the sunset. These three lads were no other than Humphrey Gilbert, his brother Adrian, and his half- brother Walter Raleigh, and it is just pos- sible that at times, they were joined in SIR HUMPHREY GILBERT. 67 their boyish expeditions by a sailor lad of the adjoining parish of Sandwich, John Davis by name. Of Humphrey Gilbert and John Davis, the early history of our country, even in epitome, has always something of interest to say. Sir Humphrey Gilbert was born in 1539. From the famous school of Eton he passed to Oxford, with the intention of finally taking up the profession of the law ; but changing his mind, he entered the army and won renown in suppressing the Irish rebel- lion of 1570, was appointed governor of Munster, and had bestowed upon nim the honour of knighthood. But it is not in his soldiering that we read the romance of his life. His fate seems to have been solved when he put pen to paper and gave to the world a treatise on the Isicw Passage to Cathay, a subject which was engrossing the world's attention in his day. Nothing had come of Cartier's voy- ages save a definite knowledge that there was a continent to explore. The fishermen continued to ply their vocation at the ap- proaches to the gulf which he had explored, and the harbour of St. John's was beginning to be known as one of their places of rendez- vous coming and going. But there was surely something more than this to come of the New Lands. If there was not to be found in them any surprising wealth of silver and gold and precious stones, there was at least a pathway, to discover through them, to places where one could not fail to 68 EARLIEST BEGINNJJSfGS OF CANADA. find these natural treasures. And when Sir Humphrey appeared before Queen Elizabeth, as John Cabot had appeared before her grandfather, the outcome of his representa- tions was very much the same; he was armed with a royal warrant to take posses- sion of any uncolonized lands in North America upon payment of one-fifth of all the gold and silver found in them. There was a heroism in Sir Humphrey Gilbert's standard of living strikingly ex- emplified in his memorial to the queen which closes with these words: — "Never mJslike with me for taking in hand any laudable and honest enterprise, for, if through pleasure or idleness we purchase shame, pleasure vanisheth, but the shame abidsth for ever. Give me leave, therefore, vrithout offence, always to live and die in this mind ; that he is not worthy to live at all that for fear or danger of death, shun- neth his country's service and his own honour, seeing that death is inevitable and the fame of virtue immortal ; wherefore in this behalf I despise either changing or fearing (nnitarc vel tlmcrc spernoj." And we know that these were no empty words but the creed of a brave man, who, while battling with the storms of the Atlantic, within an hour or two of the sinking of his vessel, could encourage his men by assuring them that they were as near heaven by sea as by land. As in the case of Cabot, we have the record of Gilbert's most memorable voyage SIR IT. GILBERT AT NEWFOUNDLAND. 69 from one who knew him personally. The first two voyages he undertook, with Walter Raleigh as an associate, came to nought. In the third a fleet of five ships sailed from the port of Dartmouth, not without the foreboding on the part of the queen that she would never see its commander again. As a last favour she sent a jewel to him and asked Raleigh to have his picture taken for her before he set sail. As Mr. Froude tells us, quoting from the Dartmouth merchant who accompanied Sir Humphrey, the fleet consisted of the Ralrif/h, the Delight, the Golden Tlinde, the HicaUoiv, and the Squirrel, the first being a bark of two hundred tons and the latter a frigate of ten tons. " We were in all," says Mr. Fronde's eye-witness, " two hundred and sixty men, among whom were of every faculty good choice. Besides, for the solace of our own people and the allurement of the savages, we were provided with music in good variety, not omitting the least toys, as morris-dancers, hobby horses, and May-like conceits to delight the savage people." The expedition reached Newfoundland without accident. St. John's was taken pos- session of and a colony left there ; and Sir Humphrey then set out exploring along the coast to the south, he himself doing all the work in his little ten-ton cutter, since the service was too dangerous for the larger vessels to venture on. One of these had ■ remained at St. John's. He was now accom- panied by the Delirjlit and the Golden Hinde, 70 EARLIEST BEOIAXINGS OF CANADA. and these two keeping as near to the shore as they dared, he spent what remained of the summer examining every creek and bay, marking the soundings, taking the bearings of the possible harbours, and risking his life, as he was obliged to do in such a service, in thus leading, as it were, the for- lorn hope in the conquest of the New World. How dangerous it was we shall presently see. It was towards the end of August. " The weather was fine and pleasant, yet not without token of a coming storm, and most of the evening had been spent in the Delight, like the swan that singeth before her death, in the sounding of drums, trumpets, and fifes, with the winding of cornets and haut- boys, and in the end of the jollitv with the battle and ringing of doleful knells." Two days after came the storm. The Dclif/M struck upon a bank, and went down in sight of the other vessels, which were un- able to render her any help. Sir Humph- rey's papers, among other things, were all lost in her, at the time considered by him an irreparable misfortune. But it was little matter; he was never to need them. The Golden Hinde and the Squirrel were now left alone of the five ships. The provi- sions were running short and the summer was closing. Both crews were on short allowance; and yet it was not without dif- ficulty that the commander was prevailed upon to be satisfied with what he had done, and to set' sail for England. The return voyage was inaugurated with A CURIOUS MO>"STER. 71 an omen which the leader made less of than his followers. It was the age in which the new was ever being looked upon as some- thing uncanny, and we must not lose sight of the fact when we read that when the ex- plorers had changed their course on their way back to England, there passed along between them and the land " a very lion, to their seeming, in shape, hair, and colour; not swimming after the manner of a beast by moving his feet, but rather sliding upon the water, with his whole body, except his legs, in sight, neither yet diving under and rising again as is the manner of whales and por- poises, but confidently showing himself without hiding, in face of open gestures' from those on board. Thus did the monster pass along turning his head to and fro, yawning and gaping wide, with ugly demon- strations of long teeth and glaring eyes, and as if to bid farewell to those on board, ran right against the Hinde, sending forth a horrible voice with roaring and bellowing like a lion." In the minds of many of the crew, this was nothing short of a visitant from the nether world giving them a send- off presaging misfortune. Sir Humphrey, however, counselled them to look upon it as a good omen, though the after event did not bear out his interpretation. Had Sir Humphrey kept to the largest of his vessels all would have been well with him personally, but in spite of the impor- tunities of captain, master, and friends, he kept to the Squirrel, declaring that he would 72 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. not forsake the little company with whom he had passed so many storms and perils. On the 2nd of September, after many days at sea, he went on board the Golden Hindc, " to make merry with us," as the narrator puts it. He greatly deplored the loss of his books and papers, but he was full of con- fidence from what he had seen, and talked with eagerness and warmth of the new ex- pedition for the following spring. There were some of his companions who believed that Sir Humphrey was keeping to himself some secret discovery he had made, and they tried hard to extract it from him. They could, however, make nothing of his odd, ironical answers, and their sorrow at the catastrophe which followed was sadly blended with disappointment that such a secret should have perished. When they were more than half way to England, a storm like unto the tempest which beset St. Paul at Melita, came down upon Sir Humphrey and his ships. Tossed about on his cockle shell of a frigate, he would sometimes pass near the fioldcn Jlinde and shout greeting across the stormy waters. " On Monday, the 9th of September, in the afternoon, the frigate was near cast away oppressed by the waves, but at that time recovered, and giving forth signs of joy. Sir Humphrey, sitting abaft with a book in his hand, cried out to us in the Hinde as often as we approached him : * Be of good cheer, boys, we are as near to heaven by sea as by THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 73 land.' This he did not fail to reiterate, well beseeming a soldier resolute in Jesus Christ, as can be testified of him. The same Monday night, about twelve of the clock, or not long after, the frigate being anead of tlie Oohlen lliiidc, the lights of the former suddenly disappeared, and our watch cried out that the General was cast away." Thus was the sowing made, without any immediate seeming of a coming harvest. As Froude says, such was Sir Humphrey Gilbert, still in the prime of his life when the Atlantic swallowed him. Like the gleam of a landscape lit suddenly for a moment by the lightning, these few scenes flash down to us across the centuries, but what a life must that have been of which this was the conclusion. The Arctic Regions have a history of their own, drawn from the records of the various expeditions in search of a North- west passage, and extending from the days of Frobisher and Gilbert to the final success of McLure and McClintock. An old map has led to the surmise that Sebastian Cabot sailed as far north as Cumberland Island or Melville Peninsula ; but Sir Martin Frobisher may with certainty be looked upon as the first of the long line of Arctic explorers, leaving, as he has done, a geo- graphical memorial of his visit in the name of one of the entrances to Hudson Bay from Davis Strait. For fifteen years he laboured to find a patron, and when he at last succeeded 74 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. in forming a company, he was able to count among the subscribers, Queen Elizabeth, who invested four thousand pounds, Lord Burleigh, the Earl of Warwick, the Earl of Leicester, Sir Philip Sydney, Sir Thomas Gresham, Sir Francis Walsingham and others scarcely less conspicuous in that generation. The first expedition consisted of two small vessels. On the 28th of July, 1576, Frobisher reached that part of what is now called Baffin Land, which still bears the name he gave to it of Mcta Incognita. Taking possession of this region, in the name of England, he gave orders to his company, if by any possible means they could ^et ashore, to bring him whatever they could find, " living or dead, stock or stone in token of Christian possession." Some of the men returned to him with flow- ers, some with grass, and one brought a piece of black stone " like unto sea coal," and with this as a specimen of the mineral wealth of the country, and with a captured native as a specimen of its inhabitants he returned to England. This piece of mineral finally saved his credit. Presenting it to one of his associ- ates, that gentleman's wife accidentally threw it into the fire where it remained some time when it was taken out and quenched in vinegar. It tnen appeared of a bright golden colour, and on being sub- mitted to an assayer in London was said Co be rich in gold. No sooner was the news of this spread in FEOCISIIEE SENT BACK. 75 the right quarter than there arose an eager- ness to send out a second expedition. Tlie gold fever has never been difficult to stir up, and Frobisher was twice sent back to make further explorations under the auspices of gold-seekers, and with more than a hundred men to work the prospective mines. On the second voyage he secured about two hundred tons of ore, and on the third over thirteen hundred tons, but it was finally proved to be of little value, and the interest in Frobisher's enterprise soon died out. It is said that a house of stone and lime was erected at one of the summer rendezvous in which were deposited some articles that might afterwards lead to its identification. Subsequent to this, Frobisher was asso- ciated with Sir Francis Drake in his voyage to the West Indies. In 1588 he was knighted for services against the Spanish Armada. In 1594 he was sent to France to aid Henry IV., and while attacking that monarch's enemies at Croyzon near Brest, he received his death wound, of which he finally expired at Plymouth in the autumn of 1594, though he was able to bring back in safety the fleet under his command. The fate of Sir Humphrey Gilbert did not deter others from following in his track in search of the sea channel in the north which had foiled Frobisher's efforts. The sailor lad, who had possibly joined in the games of boyhood with the Gilberts and Raleigh in the neighbourhood of Dartmouth, had no doubt been influenced by Sir 76 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. Humphrey's book, when he made up his mind to set sail for western Greenland. John Davis has left his name to the spa- cious coast-water that lies between Green- land and Baffin Land. Sailing from Dart- mouth and entering by the route taken by Frobisher, he examined the " Land of Desolation," as he called the western coast of Greenland, and discovered a bay to which he gave the name of his early playmate, calling it Gilbert Sound. On his return he published a pamphlet in which he set forth the grounds of his belief that a North-west Passage existed. He made in all three voy- ages to the Arctic regions. He died at sea near the coast of Malacca in 1605. Henry Hudson is another of the many in- trepid sailors who have left their names as legacies to the Arctic regions. He had made a name for himself as a navigator years before he took charge of an expedition to the Arctic coast-waters. In 1608, he made a voyage to Nova Zembla, discovering the island of Jan Mayen so well known to the readers of the literature of Arctic explora- tions. Sailing afterwards under the auspices of the Dutch India Company he discovered Hudson River and explored it as far as Albany. In 1610, he undertook, under Eng- lish auspices, to follow up the discoveries of Frobisher and Davis, exploring Hudson Strait, and discovering Hudson Bay. The last scene of his life is a pathetic one. Three months had been spent in exploring the great inland sea which will always bear BAFFIN IN THE AECTIC BEGIONS. 77 the name of the intrepid navigator. The grip of winter seized his ships early in November, and held them firm until the fol- lowing June, when, strange to say, with the prospect of relief before the crew, a mutiny arose. The explorer failed to subdue the mal- contents, who won over the majority to their way of thinking, and, finally forcing Hudson with his son, and six others, into a shell of a boat, left them to perish in the great unexplored waters of the north. Nothing was ever heard of them again, though the scandal of their desertion was made public, when the mutineers, after encountering great perils and privations, again set foot in Ens:land in 1611. William Baffin, another of the brave mariners who made their fame amid the icebergs of the Far North, gave his name to the great Arctic coast-water whose entrance is Davis Strait. Sailing further north than any of his predecessors, he affixed the names of the promoters of his enterprise, and of some of his personal friends to Smith Sound, Wolstenholme Sound, Cape Dudley Diggs, Hakluyt Island, Lancaster Sound, Jones Sound, and Gary Islands. Following Baffin came a long list of navi- gators, whose names are still read of in the pages of our geographies, such as Fox, James, Middleton, Mackenzie and Barrow, not to mention Parry and Franklin whose expeditions formed the prelude to the actual discovery of the North-west Passage by Captain McLure, The search for Sir John 78 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. Franklin, with the romantic interest that surrounded it for years, led to McClintock's rescue of McLure, and the exploration of seven thousand miles of coast-line along the northern limits of Canada, which the Cana- dian government will no doubt in time follow up. Captain James Cook, the celebrated navigator, whose life story is a romance in itself, has given his name to Canadian his- tory in more ways than one. Born of humble parentage in 1728, he was brought up in the Yorkshire village of Marton, England. After some years of experience as an ordinary seaman, he joined the navy in his twenty- seventh year; and had climbed up to being the master of a sloop at the siege of Quebec in 1759 under General Wolfe. After his fame had been established as the first cir- cumnavigator of the globe, he was engaged by the British Government to make sundry explorations, and among them one to Behring Sea, to solve if possible the mystery of a North-west Passage from the Pacinc side. The mysteries of the Arctic regions have always had, and still have, an attrac- tion for the fame seeker, and Captain Cook was willing enough to accept the commis- sion of discovery, which gave him charge of two vessels, the Resolution and Blscovcrij, and included instructions to examine the coast-line from the forty-fifth parallel to the limits of the north. As early as 1592, the waters between what CAPTAIN COOK AT NOOTKA. 79 is now called Vancouver Island and the mainland of Canada had been examined by a Spanish sailor in the employ of the vice- roy of Mexico, — a visit which, though long considered apocryphal, has given the sailor's name, Jnan de Fuca, to the strait between the United States and British Columbia. In 1748, Behring, the Danish navigator, under the auspices of Russia had worked his way from the strait which bears his name along the Pacific coast as far south as Mount St. Elias, the highest mountain peak in Canada; while Queen Charlotte Islands, Nootka Sound, and the mouth of the Columbia River had been located by Juan Perez, the Span- iard, and others. To the expedition of Captain Cook may be traced the beginnings of trade in this remote region which is said to have had the ele- ments of its earliest population from the Mongolian tribes of Asia. The weather was so unpropitious for exploration purposes during his visit, that he was unable to iden- tify the country around Nootka Sound as forming part of a large island. Indeed he went so far as to discredit the existence of the Straits of Juan de Fuca, and Queen Charlotte Sound, having no chance to hug the shore very closely as he passed north- wards to Behring Strait. It was on this the third of his greater voyages that Captain Cook was cruelly put to death on the Sandwich Islands, which he had touched at on his way home from the Arctic circle. While in the north, his asso- 80 EAELIEST BEGIXXINGS OF CAXADA. ciates had collected costly stores of furs from the natives; and when, on their return from the south seas, after the death of their master, they spread reports of the great wealth that was to be had from sea and land in the regions they had visited, there arose great eagerness on the part of the fur merchants of London to open up a trade in the Northern Pacific. Captain Cook's post- humous report was given to the world in 1784, — a year ripe with expectations also for Eastern Canada in the Loyalist migration, and Nootka Sound soon became a mooring place for trading fleets from all parts of the world. And here it is in what has been called the " Nootka affair " that we may find the very beginnings of the political history of the great western maritime province of Canada. Among the traders who found their way to Nootka was one Captain Meares, a British subject, who had made successive voyages to China and the East Indies. When he arrived at Nootka in 1788, he set up a trad- ing establishment, erecting a storehouse and fortifying its approaches. The land on which he placed his trading house he had purchased with due formality from the native chief of the district, and the idea possibly never came into his head that there could be any dispute about his pronerty not being on British soil. About a year after he had left Nootka, however, Don Estevan M-artinez, the commander of a Spanish ex- ploring- expedition, arrived one day in the CAPTAIN VANCOUVER. 81 harbour, and seized everything in the name of his country, confiscating the vessels, and talking into custody their crews. Such conduct was an outrage on the feelings of every true-hearted Briton when the news reached England, and a demand was at once made, at the instance of parliament, that Spain should give immediate satisfaction, by releasing the property confiscated and by paying an indemnity to the captive seamen. The demand brought Spain to see the right of the question. She paid nearly a quarter of a million of dollars in arranging matters; !nnd Britain, to close the dispute for all time, sent Captain George Vancouver out to arrange the final steps towards restitution, and to make a survey ol the whole territory. Vancouver's enterprise has been trebly commemorated in the west, by his name being attached to the island he explored, to the town on the Columbia in Washington Territory, and to the growing emporium in the New Westminster District, British Columbia. The survey which was placed in his charge led to a close examination of the whole coast line from the mouth of the Columbia northwards ; and, when it came to be completed, the idea that there was a sea-way somewhere leading from the Pacific to Hudson Bay was given its quietus. Further than this, however, and the meting out of justice to the traders of Nootka, the visit of Vancouver led directly to no per- manent settlement of the country. Indeed, when we look for the earliest stages of 82 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. colonial development in the west, we must follow the movements of the North-west Company and its rival and successor, the Hudson's Bay Company. Sir Alexander Mackenzie, whose name is attached to the largest river basin in Canada, was the first to make his way to the western coast across Canadian territory. He was a native of Inverness, Scotland, and while yet a lad entered the service of the North-west Company. He spent eight years of his life as employee of that great fur trading organization at their station on Lake Athabaska, where he conceived the idea of exploring the regions north and east of that remote inland water. To prepare himself for the work, he returned to his native land, spending a full year in studying astronomy and navigation, and supplying himself with canoes and companions. Previous to this he had followed the great river that bears his name to the tideway of the Arctic Ocean, and when he set out from Fort Chippewayan on the 10th of October, 1792, with his twelve associates and four canoes to find a way overland to the Pacific Ocean, he had an ex- perience to associate his name with, which few men of his time had. By June of the following year he was no further than the southernmost source of the Peace River. Portaging the height of land between this and what he thought at the time to be the Columbia, his canoes were launched in the waters of what is now known as the Fraser MAKQUIS DE LA ROCHE. 83 River. From this he passed westward across the country and reached the Pacific on the 20th of July. Returning to Britain in 1801, he immediately set himself to prepare an account of his voyaging, which he eventu- ally completed in a quarto volume of five or six hundred pages entitled Voyages from Montreal through the Continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans. He received the honour of knighthood in 1802, and died at Dalhousie, Scotland, in 1820. Marquis de La Roche.— The search for a North-west passage to the wealth of the east had finally no first place in the minds of those who sought to visit the shores of the New World. There was a wealth to share in, nearer than the east. The fisheries of Newfoundland and Cape Breton Island were in themselves a tangible inducement to the European merchant in his early efforts to colonize our country, and from the rich return which these fisheries gave may be traced the locating of perman- ent abodes along the sea-board. Before the sixteenth century was far into its fourth quarter there were to be seen annually around St. John's, Baccalaos and Canso, a fleet of nearly four hundred vessels engaged in the fishing business, and it was no unusual thing to meet sailor-fishermen who had been " across the water " thirty or forty times. Nor were these sailor-fisher- men long in finding out from the native tribes that a more lucrative trade than the 84 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. curing of codfish, was at tlie merclaant's door ; and, when opportunity arose, they were often able to show specimens of the rich furs and walrus tusks that had bean bestowed upon them by their dusky friends for a handful of glass beads or an almost valueless piece of ironware. Such stories were not long in travelling. Before long, as Parkman affirms, the west- ern seaport merchants and adventurers began to turn their eyes towards America, not like the Spaniards, seeking treasures of silver and gold, but the more modest gains of codfish and train oil, beaver skins and marine ivory. And the enterprises of these merchant-adventurers make in many ways as interesting reading as the most romantic of tales, as is to be exemplified in the story of the French nobleman whose name stands at the head of this paragraph, in the story which Francis Parkman has made so familiar through his marvellous word painting. Lord Selkirk and the Red River Settle- ment. — Thomas Douglas, fifth Earl of Selkirk, was born in Scotland in the year 1771. Early in the nineteenth century he turned his attention to British America as a suitable place of settlement for emi- grants from the Highlands of Scotland, and made a careful study of all the conditions relating to the new world. As early as 1802 he asked for a grant of land in the region of the Red River, for the purpose of founding LORD SELKIRK AJ>7D CQLO^'TZATTO^'. 85 a colony ; but as the territory he asked for was situated within the limits ceded by its charter to the Hudson's Bay Company, the Imperial autJiorities refused his request. He was however told that he might find in Prince Edward Island or in what is now the province of Ontario a tract that might suit his purpose as well. In 1803 he accordingly arranged for the carrying of three ship- loads of immigrants to Prince Edward Island, who settled in that part of the island at present known as Queen's County. In the course of the next few years he brought out about 4,000 settlers from Scotland. The results of these efforts not seeming to be satisfactory to him, he afterwards attempted to open up certain sections of Upper Canada, and founded the Baldoon Settlement in Kent county. These attempts were not attended with success. Lord Selkirk, during his visits to the country, became familiar with the workings of the great fur-trading companies, the Hudson's Bay Company and the North-west Company, learning not only of the rivalry which existed between them, but becoming acquainted with the men who formed them and gaining an insight into the value and importance of the peltry trade. Never losing sight, however, of the idea of ^colonization, he seemed more than ever to regard the v^illey of the Red River as a most suitable place to establish the settlement he had in view. Finding that he could not get a grant of land in that region direct from the government, he 86 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA, thought it might be possible to arrive at the desired end by acquiring a controlling in- terest in the Hudson's Bay Company. He cccord'ingly put forth another efrorrt, and in 1811 a tract comprising 116,000 square miles was ceded to him for the purpose of establishing a colony. This was not accom- plished without a great deal of opposition, inspired by the North-west Company and its friends. As soon as the grant was an assured fact, Selkirk immediately set to work to turn the tide of emigration from the Scottish High- lands in the direction of the region over which he had just obtained control. An expedition was soon under way, accom- panied by Captain Miles Macdonell who held a commission from Lord Selkirk and the Hudson's Bay Company as first governor of the newly founded colony. This expedition left Stornoway on the 26th of July, 1811, but did not arrive at York Factory until the 24th of September. As the season was too far advanced to think of traversing the seven hundred miles necessary to reach their destination, the winter was passed in the vicinity of York Factory. This occasioned much suffering and privation to the poor settlers. The following summer the Red River valley was reached, where the intending colonists were harassed in many ways by the agents of the North-west Com- pany. At the approach of winter, refuge was sought at Pembina, where there was a Hudson's Bay post ; and in the following BLOODSHED IN THE NORTH-AVEST. 87 spring tlie undaunted settlers returned to their prospective lionies and set about their task of cultivating the soil. At this time they established Fort Douglas as a centre. The next winter was likewise spent at Pem- bina, the population having, during the preceding spring, been increased by a second migration consisting for the most part of Irish peasants, who after a winter of untold privation also reached the Red River. It was at this time that the persistent attacks of the North-west Company on the young colony began. This corporation and its supporters had always looked upon Selkirk's colonizing schemes as not alto- gether disinterested, and seemed to regard them as an attempt to interfere with their trade. These attacks, and the quarrels they led to, seriously hindered the growth of the settlement, especially as inducements were offered to the new colonists to abandon their homes. The strife went so far as to lead to the killing of Governor Semple of the Hudson's Bay Company in a hand to hand battle which took place during the summer of 1816. In the meantime attempts were being made to combine the two rival com- panies ; though Lord Selkirk's offers in this direction were at first rejected. Hearing of the attacks made upon his colony by the agents of the North-west Company, Selkirk, being in Canada, began a counter movement against their forts and posts, and, with a hurriedly enlisted force, seized Fort William and the posts at Fond 88 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OP CANADA. (Ill Lae, Michipicoten and Rainy Lake, with their stores consisting largely of valu- able furs. Pushing on to the Red River, his little army re-took Fort Douglas, which had been occupied by the North-west Com- pany, and the colonists were again estab- lished in the homesteads they had abandoned. Thereupon ensued a number of actions at law, in which Lord Selkirk was anything but successful. The governor-general sent to the scene of the trouble two commis- sioners to carry out the instructions of the Imperial authorities. While respecting the warrant of these commissioners, Lord Selkirk spent much time in arranging matters in such a way as to establish the colony more securely. The spiritual needs of the settlers and the education of their children having at length been provided for, the noble colonizer left for England and did not again visit the Red River. The relations between the two companies remained in an unsatisfactory condition so long as Selkirk retained control of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany's affairs. During all this time the settlers were compelled to endure hardships of every description, and for seven or eight years they must have been brought many times well nigh to despair. All credit is due to their steadfastness of purpose. After Lord Selkirk's death, which occurred on the 8th of April, 1820, the rival com- panies joined forces, the whole fur trade of the great north-west being carried on in the name of the Hudson's Bay Company. THE III'DSOJs^'S HAY COMPANY. 89 From these beginnings sprang the present province of Manitoba, which was admitted into the Canadian confederation in 1870. Previous to this, in 1869, the rights of the Hudson's Bay monopoly had been purchased, and the region known as Rupert's Land and the North-West Territory formally trans- ferred to the Dominion Government. The Hudson's Bay Company. — In study- ing the history of Canada's development, the Hudson's Bay Company must of neces- sity attract attention. Founded in 1670, under the patronage of King Charles H. for the benefit of Prince Rupert, cousin to the king, and a few of his intimate friends, it had given to it powers and rights in the New World, which were almost un- limited. Its charter gave it control of what was called Rupert's Land, including the whole extent of country drained by the tributary streams of Hudson Bay and Hudson Strait. This meant a monopoly of all the trade at the time possible in this territory, although for over one hundred years the company did not carry its opera- tions inland to any extent. It then came into competition with the North-west Com- pany of Montreal, a competition which ended only with the joining of the two com- panies in 1821. By virtue of the powers granted to the two corporations, the new concern had entire control of all the country from Davis Strait to Mount St. Elias, and from the Arctic Ocean to the Californias. 90 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. Twenty years later, however, their dominion was lessened as a result of the giving up of Oregon and other great tracts to the United States. This gradual restriction was also hastened by the organization and develop- ment which led to the birth of the Dominion of Canada. The deed which brought the Hudson's Bay Company into existence made its jurisdic- tion complete over the territory granted to it, with the power to engage in war with non-Christian peoples. The letters-patent also fixed the constitution of the company. The administration of its affairs is carried on by a governor and committee in England, assisted by a governor and council in Canada, and every shareholder has a vote for every share of stock he owns. The local officers in charge of the trading posts are called factors. The profits are divided among the owners and the various officers according to a fixed scale. Although engaged in a very general business, the company's chief source of revenue has always been the fur trade. At the same time it is interest- ing to note that a very great impetus was given to its commerce by the recent dis- coveries of gold in the Yukon district. Founding of Halifax. — In view of the importance of Chebucto Bay as a strategic point for the protection of British interests in America, the Board of Trade and Planta- tions, in 1749, at the request of the New England colonists, sent out about 3,000 FOUNDING OF HALIFAX AND ST. JOIIX. 91 immigrants under the care of the Hon. Edward Cornwallis (afterwards Lord Corn- wrjlis), first governor of Nova Scotia, to form the nucleus of their colonization plans. The majority of these settlers, who arrived at their new homes towards the end of June, were retired army men and their families. As soon as the settlement was an assured fact, it received the name it still bears, in honour of the Earl of Halifax, president of the Board under whose auspices the move- ment had been inaugurated. The population increased steadily, being added to by the arrival of Irish and German immigrants. Halifax from the first was one of the princi- pal military and naval stations on the Atlantic seaboard, and it is so still. Here, three years after the forming of the little colony, was published the first Canadian nev/spaper, the Halifax Gazette. As an indication of the value, from the very begin- ning, of Halifax as a basis for military operations, there is the fact that it was the rendezvous of the force which captured Louisbourg in 1758, and that it was used by Wolfe in the following year as the remote base for his operations against the French in Canada. Founding of St. John.— On the 24th day of June — an anniversary famous in Canada —in the year 1604, Champlain and DeMonts visited the inlet now known as St. John harbour ; but it was nearly sixty years later before any attempt at permanent set- 92 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. tlement was made in this vicinity. About this time Charles de la Tour founded the fort named after him, on the east side of the harbour, and carried on an extensive trade with the Indians for a number of years. Becoming embroiled, however, with his rival, D'Aulnay Charnisay, of Port Royal, the latter attacked Fort La Tour in 1643. La Tour escaped to New England and returned with a force sufficient to compel the besieger to retire, but in 1645, during the absence of La Tour, Charnisay made another attack on his enemy's stronghold. The gallant manner in which the heroic wife, Madame La Tour, defended her hus- band's property,, has been celebrated by poet and historian. The fort only succumbed to treachery from within, and the entire garri- son was hanged before the eyes of the noble woman who had done so much to secure its safety. Charnisay, after destroying Fort La Tour, built another on the other side of the harbour. Upon his death, however, in 1650, La Tour, whose wife had died of a broken heart, after the capture of the fort, married his former enemy's widow and again assumed control of affairs. Although about the year 1762 a settlement was founded by a small body of men from New England, the actual founding of St. John dates from 1783, when 10,000 United Empire Loyalists arrived. The settlement, which arose from this migration, was called Parr Town, but shortly afterwards received the name by which the city is now known. rOET LA JOIE. 93 Early Settlement of Prince Edward Island. — Although there is reason to believe that the island was discovered by Cabot in 1497, and it is certain that it was visited by Cartier in the early part of the six- teenth century, no attempt was made to colonize its fertile lands for nearly two hundred years. Under the name of He i^t. Jean, it was included by the French as part of Acadia, and in 1663 was granted to a captain of the French navy, Sieur Doublet, who, in engaging in the fisheries, built a number of huts for his fishermen. The first permanent settlers, however, were Acadians who came over from the mainland in 1713, at the time of the cession of Nova Scotia to the English. The subsequent expulsion of the Acadians from Nova Scotia added considerably to the population. The island was ruled by the governor of Port la Joie, which was built opposite the site of Charlottetown, the present capital of the province. When Port la Joie was captured by the force sent out under Lord Rollo, the island passed into the hands of the English and was later formally ceded in 1763, when it was annexed for purposes of government to Nova Scotia, together with Cape Breton. Various schemes were proposed for the peopling of the island, which at the time of the cession had a population of not more than one hundred and fifty ; but it was not until 1767 that any definite steps in this direction were taken by the authorities, when the whole land surface was divided 94 EAELIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. into sixty-seven lots or tov/nships of twenty tliousand acres each. These townships were apportioned by lot to about one hundred grantees, upon the condition that a certain number of suitable settlers should without delay be placed on the land apportioned to each. Very little effort was put forth by the grantees to fulfil the conditions imposed, and it was only when this system of tenure was modified by legislation, that the coloni- zation of the island advanced in anything like a satisfactory manner. Immigrants began to arrive in increasing numbers, and, as has already been mentioned, the Earl of Selkirk brought out about eight hundred Highlanders, who before long became pros- perous farmers. In 1770 the Island of St. John was made a separate province, and in 1800 its name was changed to Prince Edward Island, in honour of the Duke of Kent, grandfather of King Edward VII. Six years after the four Canadian provinces had formed a confederation, the province entered the union. Charlottetown, the capital, is of historic interest in connection with the birth of the Dominion, as being the place where was held the conference which first gave a definite form to the idea of a Canadian federation. The United Em.pire Loyalists. — In speak- ing of the early settlement of Canada, mention must of necessity be made of the brave men and women who, at the time of the secession of the United States from their THE LOYALISTS. 95 British connection, chose rather to seek new homes for themselves than change their allegiance. The United Empire Loyal- . ists, as they liked to be called and as they are known in history, were an important element in the moulding of Canada into the prosperous country it now is. At the close of the War of Independence, these sturdy settlers were deprived of their property, and even their lives were in some instances threatened ; and in view of this state of affairs, the British authorities came to their aid, by voting more than three million pounds sterling and furnishing ships to con- vey them and their families to Canada. At the same time arrangements were made to provide homes for them in the Maritime Provinces and in the fertile sections of what is now called the province of Ontario. Numbers of them also found their way to the Eastern Townships of Lower Canada. In this way the country secured as an addi- tion to its growing population many excel- lent settlers, whose descendants continue to be notable for their patriotism and loyalty to the Crown. Among the first of the Loyal- ists to cross the boundary line were those who, in 1778 and the following year, arrived at Machiche, on the shores of Lake St. Peter, at Chambly, St. John's, Point Claire and Beauce, and in the neighbourhood of Sorel. Others, in 1784, established them- selves at Cataraqui, in Upper Canada, and from there settled the region along the Bay of Quinte, while many, selecting the lands 96 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. to the north of Lake Ontario, afterwards founded as a centre the settlement which is now the city of Toronto. The island of Cape Breton also received over six hundred families, while those who left their farmn in the New England states in 1783, were taken to the richer sections of Nova Scotia, settling eventually in the valley of the St. John river, at Shelburne and in Prince Edward Island. The new comers and their immediate descendants received grants of land from the government, and those in need were assisted in other ways. Their numbers increased rapidly, so that within ten years from the exodus, over 41,-500 Loyalists had found peaceful homes in the land of their adoption. An Imperial order in council of November 9th, 1789, provided that " all Loyalists who had joined the cause of Great Britain before the treaty of separation of 1783, together with their children of both sexes, have the distinction of using the letters U.E. after their names, thus preserving the memory of their devo- tion to a United Empire." Sir William Alexander received from James I. a grant of the territory between the Bay of Fundy and the River St. Law- rence in 1614, — a concession which was confirmed by Charles I., who at the same time instituted the order of Baronets of Nova Scotia, to give eclat to the proposed settlement of the country. Sir William died in lfi40. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES. The government of the Province of Ontario, in arranging for the decoration of the Legislative Buildings at Toronto, has decided to embellish the entrance hall and stairway with paintings illustrative of the history and development of Canada, Among the proposed subjects of these works of art are the following, which are of interest in connection with the early beginnings of the •country. Indians. — The early navigators so called the aborigines of the West Indies, under the delusion that they had reached the shores of Asia, but the name was afterwards applied to the natives of America in general. As a race the American Indian appears to be peculiar to this continent, having charac- teristics which are not found in the other groups of the human family. The Indian population of New Prance, including Acadia, in 1665 was estimated at about 17,500. There are now, according to the latest returns, nearly 100,000 in Canada. These are for the most part confined to the " reserves," and are looked upon as wards of the government, being under the direct 98 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. care and supervision oi the Department of Indian Affairs at Ottawa. Northmen is the name given to the early- inhabitants of northern Europe, but more particularly to the ancient Scandinavians. An account of their visits to the New World has already been given. Cabot and the Discovery of" Cape Breton have been spoken of in preceding pages of this booklet. Cartier at Quebec. — The exploits of Cartier and his brave followers at Stadacona have also been described, Maisonneuve and the Founding- of Montreal. — The present metropolis of Canada was nothing but a trading post up to the year 1642, on the 18th of May of which year the town of Ville Murk' dc Moiitrml was formally founded by Paul de Chomedy, Sieur de Maisonneuve, acting for the Conipaguie de Montreal. The object of its establishment was religious rather than commercial, it being regarded as the founda- tion stone of a " Kingdom of God " which was to be instituted in New France, and Ville Marie was to be a centre for the Christianizing of America. In 1663, by free gift from the Company of Montreal, the Seminary of St. Sulpice became the owner of the island on which the city stands, and since that time has continued to possess the SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 99 seigniorial rights. Maisonneuve's memory is preserved by a monument in the Place d'Armes, as well as in the name of a pros- perous suburban town lying to the east of the metropolis. Franklin on the Arctic Ocean. — Sir John Franklin was born in Lincolnshire, Eng- land, in 1786. He was a mariner from his earliest years, and saw service in the engagements of Copenhagen, Trafalgar and New Orleans. His fame, however, is more intimately connected with exploration in northern latitudes, he having commanded expeditions to the Arctic regions in 1818, 1819 and 1825. He received the honour of knighthood in 1829, and was for a time governor of Tasmania. His last visit to the frozen north was in 1845, when he set out with two vessels, the Erchus and Terror. The unfortunate explorer was never seen again, though numerous expeditions were sent out to search for him. Many traces of the party were found, and, in 1859, McClin- tock discovered at Point Victory documents which seemed to show beyond a doubt that Franklin died near Lancaster Sound in June, 1847. Franklin's name is perpetuated in various ways on the maps of the North Polar regions, as in Franklin Bay and Franklin Channel. Founding- of Port Royal. — When De Monts and Champlain visited the beautiful bay now known as Annapolis Basin, in 1604, 100 EAELTEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA, one of their companions, the Baron de Poutrincourt, being much impressed with the appearance of the surrounding country, decided to found a settlement on the shores of the inlet. Having secured a grant of land, he established a post and called it Port Royal. In 1605, those who survived the fate of the settlement at St. Croix removed to Port Royal, and in the following year the arrival of a number of colonists from France further increased the popula- tion. The site was, however, abandoned in 1607, owing to the king having recalled the privileges he had granted to De Monts ; but three years later Poutrincourt re-established the settlement. In 1613 Captain Argall led a force from Virginia against it and des- troyed what had become a flourishing colony, an act which was inspired by the Jesuits, whose enmity Poutrincourt had incurred. For a long period Port Royal was the bone of contention between the powers striving for supremacy in the New World, and to this no doubt may be ascribed the fact that it ceased to have any import- ance save as a basis of warlike operations. The place was finally occupied by the English in 1710, when it received the name it now bears, Annapolis. Discovery of the Saskatchewan Valley by Verandrye. — Pierre Gautier de Varennes de la Verandrye was a native of Canada, being born at Three Rivers in November, 1685. After serving in the French army, he HENNEPIN AT NIAGABA. 101 later devoted himself to exploring the far west of his native country. In 1732 he crossed the Lake of the Woods, and the following year descended the Winnipeg river, building a fort on the lake of that name. He even penetrated as far west as the Rockies, and in 1749 ascended the Sas- katchewan river, establishing Fort Dauphin at what is now called The Forks. Veran- drye died at Quebec in December, 1749. McKenzie's Discovery of the Pacific has been referred to in speaking of the work done by that daring explorer. Hennepin at Niagara Falls. — Louis Hen- nepin, known in history as Father Hennepin, a Franciscan missionary, was born in Flanders in 1640, and came to Canada in 1675. After his arrival he became greatly interested in the exploration of the un- known regions of what he describes as iin ires grand pays. To him is given the credit of discovering the famous cataract on Niagara river, in 1678, and he was later associated with LaSalle in his expeditions to the great lakes and the Mississippi river. His works dealing with his discover- ies are of great interest to students of history. He died in the year 1706 at Utrecht. Founding of Fort Frontenac. — This fort was established by Count Frontenac, gov- ernor of New France, in 1683, at the point 102 EAKLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. where the St. Lawrence river issues from Lake Ontario, and LaSalle was placed in charge of it. Not long after it was built, the Iroquois destroyed' it, hut it was restored by Frontenac in 1695. On the occupation of that section of the country by the United Empire Loyalists, the name of the settle- ment at the fort was changed to Kingston. Launch of the '^ Griffon." — The name of Rene Robert Cavalier de LaSalle is con- nected rather with the early history of the United States than with that of Canada, although he was associated with Frontenac in his efforts to strengthen and develop New France. Having visited the great lakes and established Fort Niagara, he built a vessel intended for the navigation of these waters. The craft, which has been spoken of as the first built in Upper Canada, was launched in the waters of Lake Erie in 1679, and was called the " Griffon." The vessel was most unfortunate, however. On her first voyage she sailed through lakes Erie and Huron and reached Lake Michigan, but in returning was wrecked before she reached the Niagara river, to the loss of her valuable cargo of furs. The North-west Company at Fort William. — This great fur-trading enter- prise has been referred to in connection with the Hudson's Bay Company. Fort William, from a mere trading post, has become a flourishing town and is now GLENGAKRY SETTLEMENT. 103 largely engaged in the handling of grain, being admirably situated on the western shore of Lake Superior. Founding' of Fort Eouille. — This was a small trading post established on the north- ern shore of Lake Ontario by the French, in 1749, during the administration of de La Galissoniere, It afterwards became known as York, and eventually received the name of Toronto, which it now bears. French Settlement on the Detroit River. — The site of the present city of Detroit was first visited by the French in 1610, although the first permanent settlement was not made until 1701, when Fort Ponchartrain was established, with Sieur de la Motte Cadillac as governor. In 1763 it came under British dominion, and afterwards under that of the United States, in 1787. Hig-hland Settlement at Glengarry. — What is now the county of Glengarry, in the province of Ontario, was first settled by United Empire Loyalists, whose migrations are spoken of elsewhere. Those who sought refuge from oppression on the virgin soil of the most easterly corner of Upper Canada, on the shores of Lake St. Francis, were for the most part natives of the Higlilands of Scotland, and not long after their establish- ment on their Glengarry homesteads, their numbers were added to by the arrival of a body of Scotch immigrants who came out 104 EARLIEST BEGINNINGS OF CANADA. under the care of Bishop Macdonnell. Among the early settlers of the county were many military men, and Glengarry has pro- duced a race of soldiers, whose deeds of valour, during the war of 1812, a:nd later, in the troublous times of 1837-38, have ever been the pride of their compatriots. fc LIBRARY OF CONGRESS IPIIIIIIIIIMI 011 800 323 8