Class BooL r GoB'iig!it>Jl:.. COFYKiGirr DEFOSm ■ ? ^ -^s iiiCE. 25 CENTS CQ5 ANDY UIDETO !)05T0N \ND ENVIRONS s-',NC> MCNALLY 5 CQ iBLI^nERS ■'("AGO S NEVYORK BEST ROUTE TO SEA COAST AND INTERIOR RESORTS OF NORTHERN NEW ENGLAND. BY THE LINE OF FIRST-CLASS STEAMERS BETWEEN BOSTON AND PORTLAND. \ ■ Tlu' new and palatial steamers " BAT STATE," 2,215 tons, or " PORTLAND," 2,'ted, at 7.(Xi o'clock. The trip Is out eight hours long, and affords a fine view of Boston Harbor, Nahant, Thatcher's Island il Cape Ann, the Isles of Shoals, Boone Island, Old Orchard Beach, Cape Ellzahctli, I'ort iiind Harbor, etc., making one of the finest ocean trips on the Eastern Coast. FARE BETWEEN PORTLAND AND BOSTON, St.OO. This is an Ideal route to Old Orchard Beach, combining a dellgh+ful sea voyage \N i( h a railway ride of thirty minutes from Portland. Connecting, on arrival at Portland, with Maine Central R. R.", Grand Trunk liy., Port l.iiid & Rochester R. li., and Portland & Rumford Falls Ry. Thislineaffordsamostdeslrableroute^to Rangeley Tiakes, Tolaiid Spriue, Mt. OeHert, Bethol, Corhain, N. H., North Conway, Crawford's, Fabyau'H, and White Monntain Point.s. ». Returning leave Franklin Wharf, Portland, every evening, Sundays excepted, at 7 ikj •lock. SUNDAY TRIPS — FROM MIDDLE OF JUNE TO MIDDLE OF SEPTEMBER. THROUGH TICKETS AT LOW RATES. STATE ROOMS SECURED IN ADVANCE. -i ATLLIAMS, Agent, BOSTON, Mass. J. B. COYLE, Manager, PORTLAND. M IF( ■^fm fma Lmb SEABOARD AIR LINE THE POPULAR LINE NORTH AND SOUTH Double Daily Service. The Famous Atlanta Special Solid Vestibule Limited ^^■^"'".x.^^-THE CYCLONE"%^^^^ SOLID TRAINS FROM PORTSMOUTH TO ATLANTA. lake Travel a Pleasure and Use the Seaboafd Aif Line, SOUTHERN PINES, ATHENS, RALEIGH, ATLANTA, MACON, MOBILE, NEW ORLEANS, AND PACIFIC COAST POINTS. CKETS ON SALE AT ALL PRINCIPAL TICKET OFFICES IN UNITED STATES AND CANADA. Ask Ticket Agent for Ticket via SEKGOT^RD MIR L-INE. $3 -SAVE $3. or Time Tables, Information, Reservation, call on or address A. B. FARNSWORTH, Genl Eastern Pass-r Agent. 371 Broadway. New York. ST. JOHN, H. W. B. GLOVER, L.S.ALLEN, Vice-Pres't and Gen'l Mgr.. Traffic Manager, Gen'l Pa8s'>r Agent. PORTSMOUTH, VA. '"'America'^ Greatest Water " coin toga Springs Lincoln Spring Co., Branch House, 47 Cornhill, Boston, Mass. Saratoga Springs, N. Y. OPPOSITE THE TREASURY 01i^B,l.QCK FROM THE -JW KITE HOUSE. The Hotel par excellence of the National Capital. CABLE, ELECTRIC, AND HORSE CARS PASS THE DOOR TO ALL PARTS OF THE CBTY. The most central!}^ located of any hotel in the cit}^ AMERICAN PLAN $3 per Day and upwards O. G. STAPLES Proprietor. IV } V Rand, McNally & Co/s /^ HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON AND ENVIRONS. WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. THIRD EDITION. CHICAGO AND NEW YORK : RAND, McNALLY & CO., PUBLISHER^. 1899. .-^'.^ '^r-\ ^ \^ V Fl5 .5 l^^^tJlA^ Copyright, 1895, by Rand, ]\IcNally & Co. Copyright. 1897, by Rand, McNally & Co. Copyright, 1899, by Rand, McNally & Co. ■^'^-tVcLi. M . TABLE OF CONTENTS. I. AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON Page 7 Railway Stations, 7; Sound Steamers, 9; Steamship Landings, 10; Baggage Transfers and Delivery, 11; Getting About the City, 12; Hacks and Cabs, 12; Street Car Routes, 13; Ferries, 16; Hotels, 17; Restaurants, 21: Apartment Houses or Family Hotels, 22; Boarding and Lodging Hous'es, 23. n. IN AND AROUND BOSTON 25 Localities, 25; The North End, 25; The Central District, 26; The West End, 27; The South End, 28; The Annexed Districts, 28; Metropolitan Boston, 34; Cemeteries, 38. III. THE CITY'S PARKS AND SQUARES 42 The Common, 42; The Public Garden, 44; The New Ptiblic Park System, 46; Charlesbank, 47; The Fens, 47; Leverett Park, 47; Jamaica Park, 48; Arnold Arboretum, 48; Franklin Park, 48; Marine Park, 50. IV. OLD LANDMARKS 52 Faneuil Hall, 52; Old vState House, 54; Old South Meeting House, 56- Old Corner Book Store, 57; King's Chapel, 57; Chri.st Church, 58; Old Burying Grounds, 59. V. THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS 64 Alphabetical Li.st of Theaters, 64; Museums and Collections, 69; Music and Musical Societies, 72; Alphabetical List of Musical So- cieties, 72; Athletics, 74; Field Sports, 74. VL EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC 76 Public Schools, 76; Harvard University, 80; Other Institutions, 84; Libraries, 87; Boston Public Library, 88; Other Libraries, 94; The Museum of Fine Arts, 96. VII. CHURCHES AND RELIGIOUS AND BENEVOLENT WORK.. 98 Sunday in Boston, 98; Protestant Churches, 99; Roman Catholic Churches, 104; Other Religious Organizations, 106; Societies for Social Improvement, 107; Charities and Hospitals, 108. VIII. CLUBS, SOCIETIES, AND MILITARY ORGANIZATIONS 112 List of Leading Clubs, 112; Scientific and Learned Societies, 117; Secret Orders, 118; Military Organizations, 118. IX. A TOUR OF THE CITY .- 120 Washington Street, 120; Milk Street, 121; Custom House and Vicin- ity, 122; State Street, 124; Newspaper Row, 125; School Street and the City Hall, 126; Scollay Square and Vicinity, 127; Beacon Hill, 128; Through the Common and Public Garden, 130'; Commonwealth Ave- nue, 131; Copley Square, 131; To Cambridge, via Harvard Bridge, 132; CharlestOAvn and Bunker Hill, 133. X. BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS 134 The Harbor, 134; The Islands, 135; The North Shore, 139; The South Shore, 144. (3) HOTEL EMPIRE BOULEVARD AND 63d STREET, NEW YORK CITY. Patronized by travelers and tourists of the best class from all parts of the world. A MODERN FIRE-PROOF HOTELOFTHE FIRST CLASS, CON DUCTED ON THE AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN PLANS FOR THE ACCOMMO- DATION OF THOSE WHO WANT THE BEST AT REASONABLE COST. FAMOUS for the PERFECTION of its CUISINE and SERVICE, Its Beautifvil and Homelike Appointments and Splendid Location. Within 12 minutes of alltiie principal tfieatres and great department stores, Electric cars running to all parts of the city pass its doors. 6th and 9th Avenue Railroad stations one minute's walk from the hotel. RATES MODERATE. Music by the Empire Orchestra every Evening. 'Send address for our book, " The Empire, Illustrated." W. JOHNSON QUINN, Proprietor. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Southern Passenger Station (frontispiece), Main Entrance Union Station, Hotel Vendome, ----- Bunker Hill Monument, - - - Statue of Minute Man, - - - - Beacon Street Mall, - - . . Interior View of Hitler's, Boston, Agassiz Bridge, ----- The Old State House, - - - - Christ Church, Tremont Temple, ----- Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Memorial Hall, Harvard College, Law Library, ----- New England Conservatory of Music, Boston Public Librar}-, - - - - Grand Staircase, Public Library, - Museum of Fine Arts, - - - - Arlington Street Church, King's Chapel, ----- Trinity Church, ----- Boston Chamber of Commerce, Massachusetts State House, Commonwealth Avenue, The Harbor Steamboats at Rowe's Wharf, Nantasket Beach, - _ - - Opposite page 1 6 32 36 42 46 48 54 58 68 76 80 82 84 88 92 96 100 102 104 122 128 130 134 146 (5) Rand> McNally & Co.'S SERIES OF This new series of American Guide Books gives, in volumes of "handy" size, the information generally desired by travelers seeking pleasure, health, or business. The books are uniform in size and general arrangement. Places or objects of particular importance or interest are noted in black-faced type, and those of less importance in italics. Care has been taken to present everything in the most candid and helpful light, saying little or nothing about that which is deemed worth little attention. Numerous illustrations from photographs, and colored maps supplement the text. PRICE OF EACH GUIDE. In Paper Binding, - - - - 25 Cents. In Flexible Cloth Binding, Rounded Corners, 50 Cents. The following are now ready and will be revised annually: NEW YORK CITY, including Brooklyn, Staten Island, and other suburbs. 2IO pages; 44 illustrations. Maps of New York City, 28x17; Central Park, 10x28, and New York and New Jersey Suburbs, 28x26. BOSTON AND ENVIRONS. 154 pages ; 24 illustrations. Maps of Boston, 28x21; Environs of Boston, 11 x 13^4, and Business Portion of Boston, gV^xg. PHILADELPHIA AND ENVIRONS, including Atlantic City and Cape May. 126 pages; 32 illustrations. Maps of Philadelphia, 28x22, and One Hundred Miles Around Philadelphia, 28 x 21. WASHINGTON AND THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 161 pages; 40 illustrations. Map of Washington, 21 x 28. CHICAGO. 215 pages ; 46 illustrations. Map of Chicago, 31 x 33. HUDSON RIVER AND CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 249 pages; 18 illus- trations. Five large scale sectional maps showing both sides of the river from New York to Troy. SOUTHEASTERN STATES. Includes Florida, Georgia, the Carolinas, and the Gulf Coast; 246 pages ; illustrations. Map of Southeastern States, 2J.X28. NEW ENGLAND STATES. 260 pages; nnmerous illustrations. Maps ot Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Con- necticut, printed in colors, each n x 14 in size. COUNTRY AROUND NEW YORK. iSopages. Describing resorts and routes in Westchester County on Staten Island and Long Island, and in Northeastern and Seaside Newjersey. Forty half-tone illustrations. Twelve route maps in black and white and map of region around New York, north to Hastings-on-the-Hudson; east to Garden City, Long Island; south to South Amboy, N. J.; west to Lake Hopatcong. Our publications are for sale by booksellers and newsdealers generally, or will be sent postpaid to any address on receipt of price. RAND, McNALLY & CO., Publishers, 142 Fifth Ave., N. W. Cor. 19th St., NEW YORK. ' 166-168 Adams Street, CHICAGO. ILL. I. AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. Boston, the beautiful Puritan city, has many gateways through which the pilgrims, upon whatever errand bent, may enter her goodly precincts. And she has much to offer, to all who will come to her, in the way of historic relics, treasures of literature and art, and facilities for study or business. Her older streets may be winding and narrow, but they are picturesque and full of suggestions of that past in which all Americans have an interest, and of which they have a right to be proud. Many of these quaint old thoroughfares lead to shrines which, as long as they exist, will attract tourists and will help to keep alive feelings of patriotism and loyalty. There is no city in the world where the spirit of hospitality is more boundless, or where all that pertains to the comfort of the guest is more accessible. A feeling of uncertainty and dread is apt to possess the mind of one who is entering a strange city, and the friendly words of direc- tion and caution given in this chapter are intended to remove, as far as may be possible, the embarrassment and discomfort which are natural to inexperienced travelers. There are six railway stations in Boston and many landing places for passengers from trans-Atlantic and coastwise steamers. Kailway Stations. The Boston & Albany Railroad makes use of the Southern Union Station, the point of departure for through trains for the West, via the New York Central & Hudson River Railroad. It also has an accommodation station near Copley Square. The Boston & Maine Railroad System uses the Northern Union Station on Causeway Street, between Nashua and Haverhill streets. (r) 8 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. This system, in addition to its main line, comprises the Boston & Lowell division, the Eastern division, and the Central Massachusetts division. The Fitchburg Railroad — Hoosac Tunnel Route — also occupies the Northern Union Station on Causeway Street ; but its general offices remain in the old Fitchburg Station a few steps east. The New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad occupies the Southern Union Station for all its trains except a few now using the Park Square Station. The Park Square or ''Providence^' Station will probably be abandoned during 1899. The Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad has its ferry station at 350 Atlantic Avenue, foot of High Street. Remarks on the Various Railway Stations. Much of the traveler's comfort depends upon the railway stations with which he has to do m making a journey. Those of Boston will compare favorably with the stations of other great cities of the United States. The waiting-rooms are spacious and comfortably furnished; the toilet-rooms and barber shops are neat and orderly, and the attendants are obliging and civil when giving information. In each one of the stations will be found lunch rooms or counters, as well as restaurants, where well-cooked meals, at reasonable prices, may be had at any hour of the day. Telegraph and telephone offices, news-stands, flower and fruit stands, and information bureaus are also located in all stations. Ladies arriving alone in Boston will always find a matron in charge of the waiting-room who will answer questions and give infor- mation and suggestions which it will be quite safe to follow. The Southern Union Station, or "Southern Terminal," is on Dewey Square at the intersection of Atlantic Avenue, Summer and Federal streets, and is jointly occupied by the New York, New Haven & Hartford and the Boston & Albany Railroad Companies. Here arrive all passengers from New York and the South or West except those coming over the Hoosac Tunnel Route or through Canada. This magnificent station, opened Jan. i, 1899, is the largest rail- way terminal in the world, exceeding the St. Louis LTnion Depot by about ten per cent of capacity and size. It is an imposing structure of pink Connecticut granite, six stories in height, the upper floors MAIN ENTRANCE, UNION STATION. C The New Summerland COOL, RESTFUL Nova Scotia i t t t The Beautiful Acadian Province By the Sea HEALTHFUL, RESTFUL, DELIGHTFUL— AND THE EXPENSE SO VERY SMALL. FAST MAIL EXPRESS STEAMERS Sail from Lewis Wharf at 2 p. ni., every Tuesday and Friday during the year, and from July to October, every Monday, Tuesday, Thurs- day, and Friday, reaching Yarmouth early next morning and making close connections for all points of the Provinces. Returning leave for Boston in the evening. Tickets sold and ba^g^age checked throug^h to all points. The handsomely illustrated Guide Book, " Beautiful Nova Scotia" (1899), sent on receipt of 6 cents to cover postage. For descriptive folders* staterooms, and other information, address H. F. HAMMOND, Agent, Yarmouth Steamship Co. (Limited), 43 Lewis Wharf, BOSTON, I>1/VSS. AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. 9 accommodating the business offices of the various railway companies interested. It is the property of the Southern Terminal Company, which uses thirty-five acres of very valuable ground, the buildings alone covering about thirteen acres. The cost of land and buildings is said to have already approached $14,000,000. It was necessary to drive 43,000 spruce piles, and to use in the structure, besides cut stone enough to cover a front 3,300 feet in length, and to appear elsewhere, about 16,500,000 bricks, 30,000,000 pounds of steel, 5,000,000 feet of lumber, 150,000 square feet of wire-glass, 10 acres of gravel roofing, and other materials in equally vast amounts. The broad corner entrance admits the traveler to the Midway — an open space between the waiting rooms and train-shed large enough for the maneuvering of a regiment. Inmense and comfortable waiting rooms, baggage rooms, ticket offices, restaurants, a covered carriage stand, etc., open off from this, with the most complete modern appliances of all sorts. The train-shed, outside of this, is a space 600 feet square, spanned by a steel and glass roof supported upon three arches of steel trusses, the middle one of 22S feet span. This shed contains 28 tracks side by side, and can accommodate at once 344 sixty-five foot passenger cars, able to seat 28,000 persons. Over 700 trains will regularly use the station daily, when all are arranged for. In addi- tion to this main floor there is a basement, or subway floor, intended mainly for suburban and excursion traffic, wdiere four tracks are laid in loops, so that trains can follow one another with great rapidity, enabling crowds to be handled with greater celerity than anywhere else in the countr}'. The vast yard beyond the station terminates at the Fort Pond Channel, which is crossed upon the greatest steel roll-lift bridge in the world. The NortJicrii Uni'ojt Stat /on, on Causeway Street, between Nashua and Haverhill streets, is almost the equal in size and magnifi- cence of the Southern Terminal. It is occupied jointly by the Boston & Maine and the Fitchburg systems of railroad, and hither come all passengers from the North and many from the West. The grand entrance is under the largest arch, but one, in the country. The main waiting room will seat several hundred people, and the marble toilet rooms and special waiting rooms will all meet with approval. The hack stand at this station is 100 feet square, and is under the station roof, a fact which will be appreciated by travelers in stormy weather. Soiiiicl Steamers for New York. People journeying between Boston and New York will often find it pleasant and convenient to patronize one of the lines of Sound steamers. The advantages which these boats offer, especially in warm weather, are freedom from the heat and dust of the railway, and a clean, luxurious stateroom, insuring a good night's rest. 13 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. to the place of call. The owner of baggage forwarded to a station or steamboat landing is given the company's claim check on the baggage- room of the station or landing, by which his property is at once iden- tified for checking. This company will also check baggage through to destination, from a hotel or residence, if the parties desiring it have their railroad tickets. It has offices in all railroad stations, in all the principal hotels, and in different parts of the city. Caution. — Never give up your checks to any but a uniformed train solicitor, or a regular office agent, or porter of either the transporta- tion company which holds the baggage, or of the express company to which you intend to intrust it, and always take a receipt; and never give up 3^our checks, if you claim your baggage yourself, to any per- son except the uniformed baggageman of the railway or steamboat line by which you have traveled. If you expect to meet or visit friends in the city who are residents, the best way, probably, is to keep your checks and let your friends manage the delivery of the baggage for you. Getting- About the City. If one has but a short time to stop in the city, and desires to cover as much ground as possible in that time, it will be wise to engage a cab by the hour (on cab rates) and drive from point to point; but if several days can be devoted to " doing" the city such expense will be unnecessary. Hacks and Cabs. — The hackney-carrzage and cab system of the city is under the control of an official connected with the police de- partment, the rates of fare being established by the city author! cies, and varying according to the distance. Disputes about fares are unnecessary, as the drivers are required to display a rate sheet when asked, and rates are published in detail in the city directory. The \ fare for an adult for short distances, within specified limits in the city | proper, is 50 cents; no charge is to be made for one trunk, but 25 cents is charged for each additional trunk. Cabs furnish a cheap and brisk means of getting about the city. The charge is but 25 cents for transporting one person from any rail- road station to a hotel, or from one railroad station to another. For one or more passengers from one point to another, within specified limits, the fare is 25 cents each. Cabs may also be hired by the hour AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. 13 for service within or about the city at the following" rates:. To or from any point within the limits of the city the rate shall be made on the basis of $1 per hour for one, two, three, or four passengers. The time shall be reckoned both going to and coming from any point, whether the cab returns empty or otherwise. Fractions of an hour shall not be charged after the first hour. Cabs may be hailed anywhere on the street, when without a pas- senger, for any desired service. When " roaming " on the return from an engagement to the regular stand, it is customary for the driver to throw out a sign by the side of his seat with the suggestive words, " Not Engaged." The following regulation applies to carrying children by carriage or cabs : For children under foiu' years of age, with an adult, no charge shall be made. For a child between four and twelve years of age, when accompanied by an adult, the fare shall be half the price charged for an adult ; but when not so accompanied, or when a child carried in a cab is over twelve 3'ears of age, the charge will be for an adult fare. Street-Car Routes. By referring to the street-car routes, it will be seen that it is possi- ble to visit all points of interest in Boston and the suburban districts without discomfort or great expense. The spacious open cars used in the summer, and the comfortable and equally roomy closed cars used in the winter and stormy seasons, afford a safe and pleasant means of transit. Now that the subway is finished, and the congested condition of Washington and Tremont streets in their narrowest parts is relieved, transit is much quickened. Nearly all the street-car routes have their points of attraction, and it would be impossible to give them all in a work of this kind. But in the following list an effort has been made to point out the way to those localities which are recognized as especially interesting and important: A Few Attractive Routes. — DorcJiester via Grove Hall. — Green car marked "Dorchester" on dasher and end signs. Take car at corner Franklin and Washing- ton streets. Dorchestc7' via Meeting House Hill. — Blue car marked " Meeting House Hill" on dasher and " Dorchester" on end signs. Take car at corner Franklin and Washington streets or at Union Station. 14 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Forest Hills. — Green car marked " Forest Hills" on dasher and " Forest Hills " on end signs. Take car at Union Station or at any subway station. Forest Hills Cemetery is near the terminus of this route. Franklin Park. — Green car marked " Grove Hall " on dasher and " Franklin Park " on end signs. Take car at Northern Union Station or at any subway station. Blinker Hill. — Green or yellow car marked " Roxbury and Charlestown " on dasher and " Bunker Hill " on end signs. This car may be taken at Scollay Square, or any subway station east of that point. Cypress Street, Brookline. — Blue car marked " Brookline " on dasher and " Cypress Street " on end signs and top of car. Take car at Park Street Subway Station. Back Bay Fens and Brookline Park are on this route. Janiaiea Plain. — Yellow car marked "Jamaica Plain'' on dasher and end signs. Take car at Northern Union Station or any subway station. This car passes near Jamaicaway and the Arnold Arboretum Dai/is Square, West Somerville. — Yellow car marked "Charles town" on dasher and " Clarendon Hill " on end signs. Take car at Scollay Square or any subway station. Magoiin Square, Somerville. — Yellow car marked "Charlestown"' on dasher and " Magoun Square" on end signs. Take car passing] through the subway at Scollay Square. Milton. — Blue car marked " Field's Corner" on dasher and " Mil ton " on end signs. Take car at corner Franklin and Washingto streets, Northern Union Station. Field's Corner. — Blue car marked " Field's Corner Crosstown ' on dasher, "Ashmont and Milton " on end signs. Take car at Par Street Subway Station. Neponset. — Blue car marked "Field's Corner" on dasher an " Neponset " on end signs. Take car at Northern Union Station an Franklin, corner Washington Street. City Poijit.—^e([ car marked "South Boston" on dasher and " City Point " on end signs. Take car at either Union Station or on Washington Street, between Adams Square and Boylston Street This car goes to Marine Park. City Point to Harvard Square. — Red car marked "South Boston " on dasher and " Harvard Square " on end signs. Take car at Park Square and Charles Street. Maiden. — Amber-colored car marked " Everett" on dasher and "Maiden " on end signs. Take car at Scollay Square. Medford. — Amber-colored car marked "Charlestown" on dasher and " Medford " on end signs. Take car at Scollay Square. Woodlawn Ceme.ery. — Amber-colored car marked " Everett" on dasher and " Woodlawn " on end signs. Take car at Scollay Square. Arlington and Arlington Heights. — Crimson car marked " Cam- bridge " on dasher and " Arlington " on end signs. Take car at Bow- doin Square. This route passes Harvard College. Harvard Square to City Point. — Crimson car marked "Cam- AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. 15 bridge" on dasher and " Harvard Square " on end signs. Take car at Park Square and Charles Street ; it passes Harvard College. Harviwd Square. — Crimson car marked " Cambridge" on dasher and " Harvard Square " on end signs. Take car at Park Street Sub- way Station. This route passes Harvard College. Mount Atibiini and Newton. — Crimson car marked "Cambridge" on dasher and "Mount Auburn and Newton" on end signs. Take car at Bowdoin Square. Mount Auburn Cemetery is on this route. Neivton and Reservoir, via Beacon Street. — Chocolate-colored cars marked " Reservoir" on dasher and " Newton Boulevard" on end signs. Take car at Park Street Subway Station. Reservoir, via Brook tine Village. — Blue car marked "Brookline" on dasher and " Reservoir " on end signs. Take car at Park Street Subway Station. Oak Square. — Chocolate-colored cars marked " Allston " on dasher and " Oak Square" on end signs. Take carat Park Street Subway Station. Free 1 ransfers. — T/ie Street Railiuay Companies issue free transfers as follows : I?t the Subway. — At Park Street and Scollay Square. At Grove Hall. — For any car going south to Dorchester or Franklin Park ; and to any car going north on either Blue Hill Ave- nue or Warren Street. At Dudley Street. — For any car going south on Warren Street or Blue Hill Avenue to Dorchester or Franklin Park ; north, to any car running on Washington Street, Shawmut Avenue, Tremont Street, Columbus Avenue, or Huntington Avenue to Scollay Square, Union Station, Charlestown, or Somerville, Bunker Hill, and East Boston. At Roxbury Crossi?ig. — To any car going toward Brookline or Jamaica Plain, and to any Tremont Street or Washington Street car going north. At Field's Corner. — For any Neponset or Milton car going south, or any Dorchester Avenue or Mount Pleasant car going north. At East Boston Ferry, on the Boston side. — For any car going to East Boston or Chelsea. At East Boston Ferry, on the East Boston side. — For any car running on Tremont and Washington streets. At Dorchester Street, South Boston. — For any car going to City Point, Boston proper, or Washington Village. At Broadway, corner Dorchester Avenue. — For any City Point to Harvard Square or Bay View to City Point car. At Harvard Square, Cambridge. — For any car going to North Avenue, Mount Auburn, or Huron Avenue. Also to Park Square, Tremont House, Bowdoin Square, Scollay Square, via East Cam- bridge and City Point. At Craigie Bridge.— ¥ov Claredon Hills, Somerville, Harvard Square, or Central Square, Cambridge ; City Point. South Boston, Park Square, Bowdoin Square, and Scollay Square. At West Bosto7i Bridge. — For Harvard Square, Brooicline 16 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Street, Pearl Street, Mount Auburn, and North Avenue. Also to City Point, South Boston, Park Square, and Bowdoin Square. At Sullhnin Sqiiaj-e. — For Union vSquare, West Somerville, Ma- goun Square, JNIedford, Winter Hill, INIalden, Everett, and Woodlawn. The Lynn & Boston Electric Railroad System covers the largest extent of territory of any electric railway in New England, and em- braces a large area of the northern and northwestern section of Essex County, including Lynn, Saugus, Swampscott, Marblehead, Salem, Peabody, Danvers, Beverly, Wenham, and Hamilton; and, in Middle- sex County: Stoneham, Wakefield, Melrose, Maiden, and Everett. In Suffolk it runs through Boston, from ScoUay Square, through Charlestown and Chelsea, to Revere, thence to Lynn, and so on. This system has 153 miles of single track (100 of which is single, with turn-outs), but it connects, outside of Boston, twenty-one cities and towns, with an estimated population of nearly 300,000. Lynn is the distributing center of this great electric system, and from this point the possibilities of change of direction seem to be limitless. The passenger station is at Scollay Square. The following is the time- table : To BeacJuiioni , every sixty minutes. Tv Chelsea, via Charlestown, every eight and te-n m-inutes. To Wood/awn Cemetery, every thirty minutes. To Revere, every thirty minutes. To Revere Beach (in summer), every fifteen minutes. To Lynn, Saugus, and Siuanipscott , every sixty minutes ; Sun- days (in summer), every thirty minutes. Cars from Lyiin to Peabody and Marblehead, every sixty min- utes; to East Saugus and Cliftondale, every thirty minutes. Ferries. A list of the ferries which ply between Boston and the surround- ing shores is as follows : Chelsea Ferry (foot of Hanover Street). — First boat leaves Chel- I sea, foot of Winnisimmet Street, 4.15 a. m., 4.45; then every thirt}' minutes to 5.45 p. m.; then every fifteen minutes to 7.40 r. m.; then every thirty minutes to 11. 15 p. m. ; first boat from Boston, 4.30 a. m. ; last boat, 11.30 p. m. ; Saturday, fifteen minutes' time all day. Sunday. — First boat leaves Chelsea 6.15 a. m., every thirty min- utes to S.45 A. M. ; every fifteen minutes to 7.45 r. m. ; then every thirty minutes to 11. 15 p. m. ; last boat from Boston, 11.30 p. m. East Boston {North Ferry), foot of Battery Street. — Leave at Jamacha California Mineral Springs Co. ...FORMERLY... ISHAM'S CALIFORNIA WATER CO. ROOMS NEW YORK CITY 501 & 502 LINCOLN BLDG. I & 3 Union Square SPECIFIC REMEDY FOR Rheumatism and Gout, Kidney and Liver Complaints, Bladder Troubles, Gravel, Gall-Stones and all Calcareous Deposits, Bright's Disease and Diabetes, Insomnia and Nervous Prostration, Eczema and other Skin Troubles, Dandruff and all Scalp Disorders. For Sale by JOHN GARDNER 2i8 Tremont Street, Boston, Mass. AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. 17 4.07 A. M.; every fifteen minutes to 6 a. m.; every seven and one-half minutes to 11.22 p. m.; every fifteen minutes to 11.52 night; every twenty minutes to 4 a. m. East Boston {South Ferry), foot of Eastern Avenue. — Leave at 4 A. M., every fifteen min.ites to 6 a. m. ; every seven and one-half minutes to 7.30 A. M., every six minutes to 11.30 a. m.; every nine minutes to 1.30; every six minutes toTJ.45; every seven and one-half minutes to 8 p. M. (Saturday, 9 p. m.); every fifteen minutes to 12 p. m.; every twenty minutes to 4 a. m. Boston & Revere Beach Railroad Ferry, 350 Atlantic Avenue. First boat leaves at 5.35 a. m.; every half-hour to 9.30 p. m.; then every hour to 11.30 p. m. Hotels. Boston is prepared to ' ' welcome the coming and speed the parting guest "in such manner that he will long to visit her again. Her many good hotels are not confined, as in former days, to the business district of the city, but they are to be found in almost every quarter, and of various grades of excellence, and it would seem that "all sorts and conditions of men" might here find a temporary home which would meet their utmost requirements. Hotels on the American plan furnish lodging, meals, and attend- ance at a fixed price per day, which varies according to the grade of the house and the location and appointment of rooms. Hotds on this plan are recommended to persons who, having command of their time, can be regular at meals, and to those who like to know in ad- vance the expense to which they will be subject while in the city. The prices of these hotels vary from $2 to $5 a day and upward for extra rooms and other advantages. It should be borne in mind that proprietors charge travelers for the meal that is on the table when they arrive or when they depart. As there is usually a meal going on from the early breakfast until late in the evening, it is well for the guest to see that he is registered with his account beginning with the first meal which he intends to eat. If the clerk refuses to accede to this arrangement, the meal must be paid for or other quarters sought. In the list of hotels, which forms a part of this chapter, the lowest ordinary rates per day for one person are given for hotels run on the American plan. Higher rates are charged for superior rooms. Where the stay in the city is to be prolonged for more than one week, re- 18 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. ducecl rates may be obtained at some of these hotels by making arrangements before registering. Hotels on the European plan. — In these hotels rooms are rented, with light and service, at so much per day, and the guest may take his meals in the restaurant attached to the hotel or elsewhere, as con- venience or fancy may dictate. Hotels on the European plan will commend themselves to people who are limited as to time and do not have to consider expense. The prices range from 50 cents anight, in some of the cheaper hotels, to $2 and $3 in the Back Bay region; but ver}^ choice rooms and extra privileges must be paid for accordingly. As a rule, $1 per day for a single room and $2 for two persons together will secure accommodations that will satisfy most travelers. Combination Plan. — Some of the best hotels combine both Amer- ican and European plans, and in the list of minimum charges prices for both plans are given. Extras. — The only extra charges which will be found in the bill will be for meals sent to private rooms, baths (when no bath-room is attached to the room occupied), and fires, or, in some cases, the turn- ing on of steam heat. The fire is usually of hard coal, in an open grate, and costs from 50 cents to $1 per day, and 50 cents is the usual charge for baths. In almost every hotel will be found telegraph offices, barbers, and bootblacks, news-stands, and theater ticket ofSces; and in many, railwa}^ ticket offices and agents of the baggage transfer companies and carriage lines. These agents are authorized and may be patronized without hesitation. Alphabetical List of Hotels. Abbotsfo7-d, 186-18S Commonwealth Avenue. Adams, 551-571 Washington Street — Eur., %\. A)nerica7t, Hanover and Washington streets- — Eur., |;i. Belleviie, 15-23 Beacon Street — Eur., $1. Boston Tavej'u, 347 Washington Street — Eur., $1. Bru7iswick, Bo5-lston and Claredon streets — Am., $5; Eur., %i. Castle Sqiia7'e, 423-431 Tremont Street — Eur., % — Clare7ido7i, 521-523 Tremont Street — Eur., % — Clark's, 575-581 Washington Street — Eur., $1. Copley Square, Huntington Avenue and Exeter Street — Am., $3.50; Eur., $1.50. Crawford, ScoUay Square — Eur., $1. Hu7it27igt07i, Huntington Avenue — Eur., %\. La7igha7ii, 1679 Washington Street — Am., $2.50 ; Eur., $1. Maverick, 23 Maverick vSquare, East Boston — Eur., $1. Nottmgka77i, Copley Square — Eur., $2. AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. 19 O.xford, Huntington Avenue and Exeter Street — Eur., $1.50. Pa?'ker, School and Tremont streets — Eur., %i. Plaza, Columbus Avenue and Holyoke Street — Eur., $1. Qiiincy, Brattle Street and Brattle Square — Am., $3 ; Eur., $1. Rci'ere, Bowdoin Square — Eur., $1. Reynolds, 623 Washing-ton Street — Eur., $1. Rexford^ AUston and Howard streets — Eur., $1. Savoy, 598 Washington Street — Eur., i|i. Thorndike, Boylston and Church streets — Eur., $1. Toiirainc, Tremont and Boylston streets — Eur., %2. Tuillei'ies, Commonwealth Avenue — Eur., $2. United States, Beach, Albany, and Lincoln streets — Am., $2.50; Eur.,$i. Vendome, Commonwealth Avenue and Dartmouth Street — Am., $5. Victoria, Dartmouth and Newbury streets — Eur., $1. IVint/irop, Bowdoin and Allston streets — Am., $2.50. Voting's, Court Street and Court Square — Eur., $1. Notable Traits of Prominent Hostelries.— It is not the purpose of this book to make any discriminations, other than those which will aid the stranger to find a suitable home for his stay in the city. For addresses and rates, the foregoing list will give one a pretty good idea of what the town affords; but there are some traits that belong to the older hostelries which it will be desirable for the stranger to know before making his selection. Most of the down-town hotels are in the district which is bounded on the north by Hanover Street and on the south by Boylston Street. In this district may be found every grade of hotel, and people who are here for business or sight-seeing will choose this locality for its convenience. In the Back Bay district will be found places whose elegant appointments and air of refinement and exclusiveness will appeal to those who have the leisure and the means to command such luxuries. The American House, on Hanover Street, between Portland and Court streets, is a long-established and very good hotel. It is inter- esting to know that upon a portion of the ground it occupies there formerly stood the home of Gen. Jose])h Warren. This hotel has been in operation since 1S35, and has had many alterations and additions. It was the first hotel to introduce the passenger elevator. Its prices are moderate, and it is a well-kept, comfortable house. It is largely patronized by business men, and by Western merchants. T/ie Adams House, at 553 Washington Street, is one of the largest 20 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON'. and best hotels in the city. It is noted for the excellence of its cuisine, and for its display of good paintings, by modern artists, on the walls of its corridors and halls. It covers the site of the Lamb Tavern, built in 174.5, and also of the first Adams House, built [|in 1844. Its central location and excellent service make it an attractive place to tourists. The Hotel BriDisivick, the Vendo?ue, Victoria, and Copley Square hotels, in the Back Bay district, are, as a group, the finest hotels in Boston. They are delightfully located in the fashionable part of the city, and have all the elegance of finish and appointment which the most fastidious guest can desire. All of these houses enjoy the patronage of wealthy and distinguished people, and are favorite places for private and club dinner parties. The Savoy is a new and lofty hotel, at 598 Washington Street, which is extensively patronized bj^ business men, as it is in the heart of the dry-goods district, and near most offices. The Castle Square Hotel occupies a large part of the immense and handsome structure that contains the Castle Square Theater. The Parker House, on Tremont and School streets, was the first hotel established in this country on the European plan (first opened in 1855 by the late Harvey D. Parker), and it has always maintained the highest reputation for the comfort and elegance of its service. It has been enlarged at different times, and at present is a stately marble structure, covering a large area. The (2ui7icy House. — Not far from the American House, on Brattle Street, extending to Brattle Square, is the Quincy House, the oldest existing hotel in Boston. Established in 1819, and many times enlarged and remodeled. The Thonidike. — This is one of the leading hotels of the city. It is located on Boylston Street, facing the Public Garden, and runs through on Church Street to Park Square. It is elegantly furnished and has all modern improvements, and its location gives it the advantage of a transient patronage in its restaurants, as well as one of the best views of the Public Garden and Common to be had in the city. The United States Hotel, on Beach Street, was built over half a century ago as a family hotel. Its location, while not in the most expensive and aristocratic part of the city, is convenient and accessible and near the center of both the wholesale establishments AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. 21 and of the shopping districts. It is one of the best hotels in the city, where much attention is paid to the comfort and pleasure of the guests. Voujigs Hotel— The main entrance to this hotel is on Court Avenue, and the hotel extends to Court Square and Court Street. It is one of the largest and best of the hotels on the European plan. One of the features of this hotel is the ladies' dining room, the entrance to which is on the Court Street side. This is a handsomely decorated room loo feet long and 31 feet wide. It connects with other large dining-rooms, and a cafe for gentlemen on the ground floor. This hotel is a favorite place with New Yorkers. T/ie Touraine is the newest of the first-class hotels, and exceeds all others in the completeness of its equipment for all modern hotel requirements. It is a very handsome building at the southeast corner of the Common ; is magnificently furnished throughout, and attracts the most fastidious customers. Its restaurant is one of the handsomest in the city, and in the basement are several grillrooms and cafes, fitted up in the German style, which form a favorite lunching place. Restaurants. There are several hundred establishments classed as restaurants in the business section of Boston. Of first-class establishments there are a number, and they include those at the leading hotels on the European plan. Recognized as among the best are those connected with Young's Hotel, the Parker House, and the Touraine. That of Young's Hotel is very extensive, occupying a large part of the ground floor of that establishment. It has dining-rooms for ladies and gentlemen, lunch rooms, and convenient lunch and oyster count- ers. The dining-rooms and cafe of the Adams House are first-class in every respect. In the Hotel Bellevue, on Beacon Street, is one of the best and prettiest cafes in town. At the Hotel Victoria, on Dart- mouth Street, will be found another caf6 with good service, elegant appointments, and fine cuisine. Among the favorite places in the business section of the city is Marston's, on Brattle Street. Here, during the noon hour, hundreds of business men and women find rest and refreshment. This restaurant, since the improvements of 1894, is the largest public 32 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. restaurant in the city. Farther down town, about the Fanueil Hall markets, are several restaurants, largely patronized by market men, produce men, milk men, and down-town merchants, who find them satisfactory because of their fresh and wholesome fare. On Water Street, near Washington, is found one of the most sumptuously appointed restaurants in the business section. It is known as Fellners', and is but one of half a dozen such places managed by the same firm in different sections of the city. In City Hall Square, Washington Street, and along Newspaper Row, are numbers of restaurants of every kind and grade. There arc those in which refreshments can be secured at all hours of the day and night, and there are still others which cater mainly for the noon trade. McDonald's, 132 Tremont Street, and 16 Winter Street, is popu- lar with ladies who are shopping, and here they may obtain a light lunch at reasonable prices. At the noon hour the place is thronged with women, and a most animated scene is presented. Among other places of this character are JVeder's, 25 Temple Place; Dooling's, 157 Tremont Street, and F?'Ost &^ Dearborn s, S and 10 Pearl Street. TJie Wi7itcr-Place Hotel, on Winter Place, has recently succeeded Ober's French Restaurant, and it is, without doubt, one of the finest cafes in the city. T/ionipsoji's Spa, on Washington Street, is note- worthy in its way. HilVs restaurant, corner of Washington and Boylston streets, is a popular place with the sporting classes, and here, at all times, may be found devotees of all branches of sport, disposing of a juicy chop and a mug of "musty" while discussing the current topics. The leading French restaurants of the city are located on Van Rensselaer Place. Vercellis\ 61 La Grange Street, is the leading Ital- ian restaurant, and is a place much patronized by fashionable Boston. There are also a few good chop and oyster houses in this city. Of the former, two can be found on Essex Street and one in Avery Street, while of the latter class may be mentioned Higgins\ on Court Street ; Brighani's, on Washington Street, opposite Boylston Street, and Bacon's, on Essex Street. The railroad restaurants of the city are, as a rule, good, and a well- cooked meal can be obtained at any of them on short notice. Apartment Houses or Family Hotels. Boston was the first American city to adopt this system of living, and it has become so popular that it would be impossible, in a work J AN INTRODUCTION TO BOSTON. 23 of this character, to mention any but the most prominent estabhsh- ments. These houses range from palatial structures to plain, but comfortable, homes for people of moderate means, and they are to be found "down town'' and in all residence districts. They are arranged in suites, the annual rent ranging from $400 to $3,000 and higher, according to size and number of rooms, elegance of finish, and loca- tion of the house. The rent includes janitor service and steam heat. Many of the better class of these houses are furnished with elevators, and have the kitchens at the top of the building. liist of the Most Promiiieut Family Hotels. Agassis, 191 Commonwealth Avenue. Berkeley, Berkeley, cor. Boylston Street. Bristol, Boylston, cor. Clarendon. Cluny, 233 Boylston Street. Charlesgate, Beacon, cor. Charlesgate, East. Gladstone, Belvidere Street. NottingJiani, Huntington Avenue, near Copley Square. Nightingale, 637 Dudley Street. O.xford, Huntington Avenue. PelJiani, Boylston, cor. Tremont. Royal, 297 Beacon Street. Westminster, Copley Square. Boarding' and Lodging' Houses. Those who contemplate spending some time in the city will find it possible to live, both economically and pleasantly, in a private board- ing-house. Prices range according to location, size, and number of rooms required, etc., and ©ne can obtain board in respectable neigh- borhoods at from $6 to $15 per week, according to accommodations. One can, of course, find lower and higher rates, but would hardly expect satisfactory table and rooms at less than $6. Furnished Rooms. — A very pleasant method of living in Boston is to engage a furnished room by the week, and take one's meals at any of the numerous restaurants. This is an economical way of living, besides the freedom it gives for lunching or dining whenever and wherever one chooses. Rooms to be let for lodgings and private boarding-houses are advertised in the daily papers; but it will be well to require references of those having rooms to rent. At the Woman's Educational a7id Industrial Utiion is kept a boarding-house directory, which ladies may consult at any time, and so learn of places whose respectability is guaranteed. (See page loS). 24 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. The Young Men's Christian Association, corner of Berkeley and *Boylston streets; the Young Men's Christian Union, at 48 Boylston Street, and the Young Women's Christian Association, 40 Berkeley Street, are always glad to lend a helping hand to strangers, and also keep boarding-house lists, which are placed at the disposal of those needing such assistance. II. IN AND AROUND BOSTON. The little jagged peninsula on which John Winthrop and his asso- ciates settled in 1630 was first called Shawmut, then Trimountain, The original area of Boston — 783 acres — has grown to 23,661 acres, and the census of igoo will give Boston a population of over half a million. But these figures as to acreage and population are mislead- ing and unfair. The increase in area has been the result of filling in the harbor and annexing adjacent towns. The first addition of out- lying territory was made as early as 1637, when Noddle's Island " was layd to Boston " and given the name of East Boston. This addition, which more than doubled the area of the old town, remained a farm until 1833, when capitalists purchased most of the land, and improve- ments and settlements began. Early in the present century some parts of Dorchester were added to Boston, but it was not until late in the second half of the century that the municipalities of Roxbury, Dorchester, Charlestown, West Roxbury, and Brighton were absorbed by the ambitious metropolis. Localities. Early in the history of Boston it became the habit of the people to speak of the different sections of the town as the " North End," the " West End," the " South End," and then as the residence sections continued to stretch farther to the south and west and business inter- 2Sts absorbed the territory east and south of the Common and Public Garden, this came to be knowm as the Central District. This division of the city into districts is an advantage to those w^ho are not familiar with the city's topography and points of attraction. The North End is that part of the city lying north of Slate, Court, and Cambridge streets. This was once the wealthiest, most populous, and, in every way, the most important part of town. (25) 26 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Here were the great warehouses, the pubhc buildings, and the homes of the old and prominent families. All this is now changed and this part of the city has been abandoned as a place of residence except by the poorest classes. All about this section are streets whose names will recall the historical association of the Colonial period. Many of the most suggestive names, however, were changed after the separation to suit the republican sentiments of the community. Thus King Street became State Street; Queen was changed to Court Street ; but Hanover, named in honor of the royal house, was for some reason permitted to stand. The latter is the main business thoroughfare of this district, starting from ScoUay Square and run- ning north to Aspinwall's Wharf. The street is mainly occupied by dealers in small wares, and has been appropriately called the " Bow- ery " of Boston. At one time the North End bore a bad reputation as a slum district, but since the population has become Italian and Hebraic rather than Celtic, it is more peaceful and orderly in its ways. The Italians predominate to the east and the Hebrews to the west of Hanover Street, and " Little Italy" and " New Jerusalem " flourish side by side in what was once the most aristocratic part of Boston. The Italian quarter has its own shops, banks, hotels, and restaurants, a theater, and two churches (St. Leonards of Porte Maurice, on Prince Street, and the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus on North Square). Points of Interest at the North End. — The points which will be attractive to the traveler in this part of the city are the Old State House, on State Street; Faneuil Hall, in Faneuil Hall Square; Quincy Market, just across Merchants' Row from Faneuil Hall; Christ Church, on Salem Street; and Copps Hill Burying Ground, quite near the latter, on Hull Street. Each of these places is described in the chapter on " Old Landmarks," and in the chapter entitled " A Tour of the City" the most convenient way of visiting them is pointed out. The Central District, or business quarter, lies east and south of Boylston Street, the Public Garden, the Common, Tremont, Court, and State streets. This region is frequently referred to nowadays as the "congested district," and into it are crowded banks, public buildings, warehouses, shops, offices, hotels, theaters, newspaper offices, and the railway stations. The Subway is a series of connected tunnels used as a passage- way for street-cars beneath the crowded central part of the city. It ■ i 1 I WASHINGTON STREET, BOSTOM. Bf|acullaf pai^l^ei^ Companij )T KLOTfflM^ Ready to wear, for Men and for Boys. Made from well-chosen, carefully-tested materials, by skillful, well- paid hands, in clean, thoroughly-ventilated work-rooms on the premises. CoiMECT Styles, Pe5T Wqkk, fmR F1DCE5, Custom Department : Large stock of choicest cloths: Garments cut by competent cutters and carefully made by handwork. Hew J mb Hotp 398 and 400 Washing:ton St., Between Summer and Franklin Sts. | IN AND AROUND BOSTON. 27 was begun in March, 1895, partly opened for use in August, 1897, and completed September i, 1898. It extends from the middle of the eastern edge of the Public Gardens to near the corner of Boylston and Tremont streets, then turns north beneath the Mall of the Common to Park Street, where there is a loop for those cars whose lines terminate here. It then extends northerly under the line of Tremont Street to Scollay Square, where it divides into two parts, one turning east beneath Cornhill and north again at Adams Square , while the other goes to and beneath Hanover Street, until it joins the other line. The double tunnel then proceeds northward beneath Haymarket Square and reaches the surface by an incline at the Northern Union Station on Causeway Street. In addition to this a branch passes from the Boylston Street corner out Tremont Street to Shawmut Avenue, where it reaches the surface. It is used by all the street-car lines that formerly occupied the streets of its neighborhood, relieving them of the unendurable congestion of traffic they caused. The Subway forms an arched tunnel, built of masonry and steel in combination, carrying in some parts four tracks and in others two tracks. It is dry, well ventilated, lighted by electricity, and'n most parts, especially about the stations, lined with white enameled brick. It is entered at its termini by inclines; and will be used by the trains of the Elevated System when that shall go into operation. Separate stations for entrance (where passengers buy tickets) and for exit stand at the several termini, at Boylston Street, Park Street, Scollay, Adams, and Haymarket Squares. Several of these, especially Park Street and Scollay Square, are transfer stations, where passengers changing cars receive transfer tickets and pass through designated gates. The platforms are capacious, have seats, police attendance, news stands, etc., and the use of the Subway is as comfortable as it is advantageous. The West End includes that part of the city south and west of Court, Cambridge, Tremont, and Boylston streets, to the line of the Boston & Albany Railroad, following the line of that road to Brook- line. Within these boundaries are the Common and Public Garden, Beacon Hill, and the Back Bay new land. Here is the fashionable part of modern Boston. The Back Bay quarter begins with Arling- ton Street next to the Public Garden. From Arlington Street three great thoroughfares — Newbury Street, Commonwealth Avenue, and Marlborough Street — run parallel with Beacon. These streets are 28 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. crossed at right angles, at intervals of about 600 feet, by broad cross- streets, which are alphabetically named, a trisyllabic word alter- nating with a dissyllabic. CouDnonwealth Avenue is 240 feet wide and has a tree-lined parkway running through the center, with wide driveways on either side. It is one of the stateliest and most beau- tiful streets in the country. Within the limits of this district are many of the finest churches in the city proper. The South End. — The section bounded on the north and west by Essex, Boylston, and Tremont streets, and the Boston & Albany Railroad, and south by the old Roxbury line, is the South End of Boston, as the term is now understood. It is largely a district of residences, though Washingtoti Street is principally given up to the retail trade, and considerable business is done on some other streets. A large part of this territory was reclaimed from the sea. The Annexed Districts. East Boston is reached by street cars starting at Bartlett Street and running through Washington , Milk, Congress, State, Devonshire, Hanover, and Battery to the ferry. It is a place of piers, warehouses, dry docks, and marine railways ; of great mills, manufactories, oil works, fish curing and smoking establishments, and immense coal depots. At the Grand Junction Wharves several lines of trans- atlantic steamships load and discharge their cargoes, and here the Boston & Albany and the Boston & Maine railroads have extensive freight terminal sheds and grain elevators. The facilities at these wharves for the reception and dispatch of immigrants are superior to those of any American port. The immigrants who are to continue their journey by land into other sections of the country are carefully guarded from sharpers until they are sent away over the Grand Junction, which connects with the various trunk lines without passing through the city. Near the South Ferry are the Cunard docks, which have been established here since the organization of the line in 1840. East Boston has its pleasant features and its historical associa- tions. It has several parks, one of them — Wood Island — covering more than eighty acres, and affording from its higher points fine views of the harbor. Belmont Square is on the site of the old forts of 1776 and 1S14. It is supposed that Noddle, after whom the island was originally named, was one of the colonists sent out by Sir Will- iam Brereton, who obtained a grant of this island from John Georges IN AND AROUND BOSTON. 29 In 1628. When John Winthrop came to Boston in 1630, the land was occupied by Samuel Maverick, who lived here for twenty-five years, and who became the first slaveholder in the colony. East Boston was famed for its shipyards, which turned out some of the fast clipper ships, and in 1853, the largest sailing ship of its time. The " Great Republic " was built here. East Boston is connected with the main- land at Chelsea and Winthrop by bridges. South Boston. — To reach South Boston by street car, take the red car marked " South Boston " on the dasher, and " City Point " on end signs. This car goes to Marine Park, and may be taken at either Union Station, or on Washington Street, between Adams Square and Boylston Street. From Park Square and Charles Street take a red car marked " South Boston" on dasher, and " Harvard Square" on the end signs. South Boston is another great industrial center, having vast estab- lishments in which naval cruisers are built and heavy ordnance made; immense cordage works, car- wheel works, elevator works, oil works, sugar refineries, and breweries. These establishments are mostly along the water fronts on the northern and southern sides. In the neighborhood of the Congress Street Bridge from the city proper are the Atlas stores, huge warehouses, the terminal piers of the New York & New England Railroad, and foreign and coastwise steam- ship docks. The district is thickly settled, and in the lower parts unattractive. Its pleasant places are on the hills beyond, and near and about City Point, the most easterly part, embellished by the Marine Park, the terminal of the noble chain of parks and parkways encircling the city. Thomas Park, on Telegraph Hill, occupies the site of the " Dorchester Heights," on whose crest Washington planted the bat- teries which drove the British out of Boston in March, 1776. The spot is marked by a granite tablet. An institution which no visitor should fail to inspect is the Perkins Asylum for the Blind, which is described in Chapter VI, entitled " Educational Institutions." This is located on East Broadway. On Old Harbor Street is Carney Hospital, described in Chapter VII. Of the Marine Park, attract- ive features are the promenades along the shore, and the great pier, commanding delightful views of the harbor, and the walks and drive- way around Old Fort Independence on Castle Island, which is con- nected with the mainland by a bridge. The statue of Farragut, by 30 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. H. H. Kittson, was placed here in 1893. This is a great yachting station, and several clubs have their handsome club houses in the neighborhood. In the boat-building yards here many of the famous racers were built. The Roxbury District. — Street cars for Roxbury pass Rowe's Wharf along Atlantic Avenue to Summer, Summer to Washington, Washington to Eliot, Eliot to Tremont, and Tremont to Roxbury Crossing. Another route is from East Boston Ferry via Hanover Street to Scollay Square, and thence via Tremont to Roxbury Cross- ing. Roxbury was incorporated as a town but a few days after Boston, and when it became a part of Boston in January, 1868, its population numbered 28,400. In 1S90 its numbers had increased to over 78,000, a growth of 50,000 in twenty-two years. It has a local history of which it is proud, but most of its interesting old landmarks have been swept away. It is now a pleasant residence quarter, with broad, shady streets, where most of the houses are detached. Among the points of interest is the meeting-house of the " First Religious Society of Roxbury," of which John Eliot, the apostle to the Indians, was the first pastor. This takes rank in age next after the First Church in Boston. It stands in Eliot Square, into which Dudley, Roxbury, and Highland streets converge, occupying the site of the first meet- ing-house. It was built in 1804, succeeding the fourth meeting-house on the spot, the one used for a signal station by the Continentals dur- ing the Siege of Boston. The architecture and the finish of the in- terior have been carefully preserved. The old Universalist Church, near by, stands where Gov. Thomas Dudley's house stood. The site of the earthworks thrown up in 1775, called the Roxbur}'- High Fort, which crowned the Roxbury lines of investment during the siege, is marked by the Cochituate standpipe on the hill between Beech Glen and Fort avenues. This structure, erected and' put in use in 1869, was intended to supply high service to those parts of the city which were at the higher levels, but it proved adequate to the .supply of the whole city, and thus superseded the old reservoir on Beacon Hill. It has been rendered useless by the Parker Hill reser- voir subsequently built. Around the interior pipe, but within the exterior wall of brick, a winding staircase leads to a lookout at the top. The site of the birthplace of Gen. Joseph Warren, on Warren Street, is marked by a tablet on the dwelling-house now occupying IN AND AROUND BOSTON. 31 the spot. The old graveyard in which John Eliot is buried is on the corner of Washington and Eustis streets. Here, also, are the graves of other ministers of the First Parish in Roxbury, of the famous Dudley family, and of the father of Gen. Joseph Warren. The Dudley tomb is near the Eustis Street entrance. Among the worthy institutions of this district is the New England Hospital for Women and Children, on Dimock Street. The Dorchester District. — To reach Dorchester via Meeting House Hill, take the blue cars marked "Meeting House Hill" on dasher, and " Dorchester" on end signs. These cars start from Frank- lin Street and run via Hawley, Summer, Washington, Eustis, Dear- born, and Dudley streets. To reach Dorchester via Grove Hall, take the green car marked " Dorchester " on dasher and end signs. These cars run via Washington, Summer, Hawley, Franklin, Washington, and Warren streets. Dorchester, incorporated the same day as Boston, has, like Rox- bury, an interesting local history. It became a part of Boston in 1870 and,,in spite of its rapid growth, it has retained many of the features which have always made it a pleasant place for suburban residences. Its picturesque hills — Savin, Jones', Pope's, and Meeting House, and Mount Bowdoin — command extensive water and land views and are covered with costly villas. At Upham's Corner is the old burying ground (Dudley and Boston streets) where are the graves of Richard Mather, founder of the Mather family in this country, and others dis- tinguished in the history of Massachusetts. At Five Corners — Massa- chusetts Avenue, Boston, Pond, and Cottage streets — is the old Everett House where Edward Everett was born. Meeting House Hill has been since 1670 the site of the successive meeting-houses of the First Parish (now Unitarian), dating from 1630. The present house, which was built in 1 8 16, is a fair specimen of the church architecture of that period. At Field's Corner is the district post office and a branch of the Boston Public Library. The Lower Mills village is at the south- erly bounds of the district on the Neponset River. The Charlestown District.— To reach Charlestown via Bunker Hill, take green or yellow car marked " Roxbury and Charlestown" on dasher, and " Franklin Street, Somerville," on end signs. Street cars for Charlestown may also be taken at Park Street, Scollay Square, or other Subway Station. Charlestown was annexed to Boston in 1873, and, although smaller in area than some of the other 32 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. additions, it is one of the richest localities in historical associations. Most of its points of interest can be compassed in a short walk; but the one which towers above all the others \^ Bunker Hill Montimeiit, on Breed's Hill, where the battle celebrated in song and story was fought. The monument marks the lines of the old redoubt and is built of coarse granite, thirty feet square at the base, rising, majestic- ally, 220 feet. From the observatory at the top a wide view of the surrounding country may be obtained. This is reached by a spiral flight of stone steps inside the shaft, and the visitor who intends to make the ascent will be interested to know that there are just 295 of these steps. In the building at the base of the monument are interesting memorials of the battle, and an excellent statue of General Warren, in marble, the work of Henry Dexter. The spot where Warren fell is marked by a stone in the grounds near by. The bronze statue of Colonel Prescott, in the main path, occupies the spot where he is supposed to have stood at the opening of the battle. The Bunker Hill Monument was begun in 1825, and the corner stone was laid by Lafayette. Daniel Webster delivered the oration at. this ceremony, and also on the occasion of the dedication of the completed work, June 17, 1S43. The Navy Yard at " Moulton's Point " is where the British troops landed for the fight at Bunker Hill. Its present area is about eighty- seven acres, and within the inclosure are large and costly buildings. The grounds are attractive, with two broad avenues running through them. There are extensive parks for cannon and shot, a parade ground, marine barracks, store and ship houses, arsenal and maga- zine, a hammered granite dry dock, a long rope walk, a museum, a library, and the homes of the commandant and other officers. The yard is open daily to visitors. Passes can be obtained at the main gate at the junction of Wapping and Water streets. Another feature of the district is the ancient burying ground on the west side (Phipps Street, off Main Street), in which are the graves of Rev. John Harvard, the first benefactor of Harvard College ; of Thomas Beecher, the ancestor of the famous Beecher family in America, and of others prominent among the early settlers. The monument in this grave- yard to the memory of Harvard, a simple granite shaft, was set up in 1828. It bears the following inscription in Latin : ' ' That one who merits so much from our literary men should no longer be without a monument, however humble, the graduates of BUNKER HILL MONUMENT— Monument Square, Charlestown District. IN AND AROUND BOSTON. 33 the University of Cambridge, New England, have erected this stone, nearly 200 years after his death, in pious and perpetual remembrance of John Harvard." In City Square, the municipal building (the City Hall before annex- ation) marks the site of the "Great House" of the Governor, in which the Court of Assistants named Boston. Charlestown is dis- tinguished as the birthplace of Samuel F. B. Morse, the inventor of the electric telegraph. The West Roxbury District includes Jamaica Plain, and is the largest and most picturesque of the annexed sections of the city. Within its limits are the greater parks of the public parks system — Jamaicaway, along the ornamented banks and graceful shores of Jamaica Pond; the Arnold Arboretum; and Franklin Park, the crowning feature of the system; the Bussey Institute, and beautiful Forest Hills Cemetery. Jamaicaway may be reached from the city proper by electric cars to Jamaica Plain; the Bussey and the Arbore- tum by electrics through the Roxbury District to Forest Hills, or by the Providence division of the Old Colony Railroad to the Forest Hills Station; and Franklin Park by the last-mentioned routes, or by electrics to Eggleston Square, in the Roxbury District. The Bussey and the Arboretum are on the west side of the railroad, and Forest Hills and Franklin Park on the east side. The Brighton District. — (For street cars to this district see Res- ervoir and Oak Square routes under heading: "A Few Attractive Routes," in Chapter I.) This is a region of breezy, commanding hills, of broad and attractive streets, and pleasant homes. Two mag- nificent boulevards from the Back Bay — Commonwealth Avenue and Beacon Street — extend into it, and one of the most popular drives is to Chestnut Hill Reservoir (connected with the Boston Water Works), a pleasure resort which lies within its limits. A beau- tiful driveway, from sixty to eighty feet in width, surrounds this work, in some parts running close to the embankment, and in others leaving it and rising to a higher level, at a little distance from which a view of the entire reservoir can be had. The work covers more than 200 acres. It is a double reservoir, being divided by a water- tight dam into two basins. The surface of water in both is about 125 acres, and when filled to their fullest capacity the basins hold about 800,000,000 gallons. 34 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Metropolitan Boston. Lying within a radius of ten miles of the City Hall, Boston, arc thirty municipalities whose interests are so closely identified witt those of the city proper, and so continuous is the population of these sections that it is difficult to draw a boundary line and say where one leaves off or another begins. Within this metroi3olitan district are the eleven cities of Cambridge, Lynn, Somerville, Chelsea, Malden.i Newton, Waltham, Quincy, Everett, Medford, and Woburn, and ini these cities and the adjoining towns are the homes of thousands of people whose business interests are in Boston, and who daily come to their work in the city. Many of these towns and cities are already organized into administrative districts. Thus the Boston Postal Dis- trict comprises seven municipalities, the Sewerage District contains eighteen municipalities, and the Park District, thirty-seven munici- palities. The last extends beyond the limit of metropolitan popula- tion on accotmt of including some important landscape features. Legislation is now under consideration which looks to the establish- ment of a metropolitan water district to furnish these cities and towns with an adequate supply of pure water from the Nashua River, at an estimated cost of nearly $20,000,000. To this metro- politan district is aptly given the name of " Greater Boston,'' and a "Greater Boston Commission," appointed under recent legislation, is engaged in the consideration of some form of metropolitan organ- ization, which, with self-governing powers and a federalized govern- ment for general interests, will still leave the various municipalities independent in authority in purely local matters. Each of these cities has its distinguishing and interesting features; all have a great variety of manufacturing industries, and several are famous in special lines — as Woburn for its tanneries, Waltham for watches, Lynn for shoes, and Chelsea for rubber goods and art tiles. All have charming residence quarters and are connected with the central city by fine boulevards and parkways. In a work of this kind it is only possible to give the prominent features of those localities which will prove of especial benefit to the tourist. Brookline lies south of the great Back Bay region of Boston, and is approached by the stately boulevards of that quarter. It has been called the most beautiful example of a city's suburb in the world. Here are delightful walks and drives among charming villas and park-like estates. At Hyde Park are the club-house and grounds of I IN AND AROUND BOSTON. 35 the Coiijitry Club, an organization of Bostonians, members of leading clubs in town. Within the grounds are tennis courts, and one of the best racing courses in the neighborhood of the city, and the club- house is a hospitable country mansion of the olden time. Cambridge, with over So.ooo inhabitants, is the largest of the out- lying municipalities. Famous, in the first place, as the seat of the great university, it has many associations and points of interest, which attract all who are so fortunate as to visit Boston. The Old Elm, under which Washington stood when he took command of the Continental Army on July 3, 1775, is still sta.nding at the junction of Mason and Garden streets. Not far away, on the Watertown road, near Brattle Street, is the stately house where the General made his headquarters — the mansion of the Royalist, Col. John Vassal, who abandoned it at the outbreak of the war. In after years it was the home of Longfellow — from 1837 until his death in 1882. Farther on is Elmwood, the birthplace and home of James Russell Lowell. The historic old mansion-house is set in the midst of trees and shrubbery, and dates from about 1760. The poet's study, where he wrote nearly all his poems, was on the third floor. Beautiful Mount Auburn, -\he last resting-place of so many of America's great men and women, is partly in Cambridge and partly in Watertown. It is fully described at the end of this chapter. Cambridge is also noted as being the first place in this country where a printing-press was set up. In 1639 a press was brought over from England and put in operation in the house of the President, who had charge of it for many years. The first thing printed upon it was the Freeman's Oath, followed by an Almanack for New England, and the Psalms. A fragment of the last-named work is preserved in the college library, and copies of it may still be seen in some anti- quarian libraries. Cambridge has at the present day some of the largest and most completely furnished printing-ofifices in America, conspicuous among which are the Riverside Press and the University Press. Noteworthy among the public buildings of Cambridge, and conspicuous pieces of architecture, are the City Hall, on Main Street, and the Public Librai-y, on Broadway and Irving Street. Both these buildings and the lot on which the library stands, known as Library Common, were gifts to the city from Frederick II. Rindgc of Los Angeles, CaL, a former resident of Cambridge. The public 36 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Matiual Training School, on Irving Street, opposite the library, was also established and equipped for use by Mr. Rindge. Newton, the " Garden City," ranks next to Brookline as a beautiful suburb. It is reached by the Boston & Albany Railroad or by street cars. (See "Attractive Routes," Chapter I.) Between Riverside Sta- tion and Waltham, on the Charles River, is the principal fresh -water boating ground. Somerville is the third of the suburban cities in population. Its points of historic interest are Prospect Hill and Winter Hill, where a redoubt and breastworks were constructed by the Americans in 1775, and in the " Old Powder Tower" will be found an interesting Colonial relic. At Medford, the seat of Tuft's College, which occupies College Hill, are many fine old houses, conspicuous among them being the Craddock house, the oldest building in New England. j Lynn, the second of the suburban cities in population, is the largest shoe-manufacturing town in the United States, and the seat of the greatest ek ctric industry. Its seaside and rural surroundings are very beautiful, and the neighborhood of its fine beach is a delightful residential section. Lynn Woods, with 2,000 acres, is the second , largest public pleasure-ground belonging to any city in the country. I Salem, sixteen miles northwest from Boston, is reached by the Boston & Maine Railroad, or by the Boston & Lynn Street Railway. It is an extremely interesting old city, abounding in historical associ- ations. Tourists will be interested in the old Roger Williains house, which is still standing at the corner of North and Essex streets, and which is noted as the building in which some of the persons charged with making use of the dark art of witchcraft were examined. GaUoius Hill, where the execution Oj." witches took place, is in the western part of the city. But the associations clustering about the scenes of Hawthorne's romances are more potent in their attraction for tourists than even historical facts. The house on Mail Street, where Hawthorne wrote " The Scarlet Letter," is standing. The Custom House desk of pine, where he made his first rough draft of " The Scarlet Letter," is sacredly preserved in the reconstructed old First Church. Another building, the Ingersoll house, dating from 1662, is called "The House of the Seven Gables," although Haw- thorne declared that he drew entirely upon his imagination for the site of his Puncheon mansion. STATUE OF MINUTE MAN — Concord Battle Field. ORGTtNIZBD IBSl. Cbe Berksbire ♦ Cite Insurance ♦ Companp ... WILLIAM R. PLUNKETT, President. JAMES M. BARKER, Vice-President. JAMES W. HULL, Secretary and Treasurer. OF PITTSFIELD, MASS. Its policies are protected by tiie Non-Forfeiture Laws of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, which secure greater bene- fits to members than those of any other State. The Massachusetts Non-Forfeiture Law applies only to policies issued by Massachusetts companies. It does not even apply to policies issued by companies of other States upon the lives of Massachusetts citizens. Its conditions as to travel and residence are very liberal. It has a large surplus over the legal reserve and all other liabilities. EASTERN Massachusetts agency, 40 WATER STREET, BOSTON, MASS. F. J. FOSS, General Agent. Map of Berkshire County, showing roads, schools, churches, and points of interest, sent free on application to home office or any agent. IN AND AROUND BOSTON. 37 Salem is the county seat of Essex County. A State normal school is located here, and among other institutions are the Essex Institute and the East India Marine Hall. The latter contains the fine ethno- logical museum of the Marine Society. Of the suburbs south of the Dorchester District, Hyde Pa?-k is attractively set in the Neponset Valley; Milton is a town of quiet beauty and park-like character, including the wild and picturesque Blue Hills, the greatest elevations in Eastern Massachusetts, which command far-reaching coast and inland views. Quincy is famous as the birthplace of two presidents of the United vStates and the home of several notable families. Its old stone church contains the tombs of the presidents. The public library, known as the Crane Memorial, designed by Richardson, is among its features. Concord is a picturesque old town, nineteen miles from Boston, and it may be reached by either the Fitchburg Railway, or the Lowell division of the Boston & Maine Railway. Tourists will find here many objects of historical and literary interest. Concord is revered, not only because " By the rude bridge that arched the flood, Their flag to April's breeze unfurled, Here once the embattled farmers stood And fired the shot heard round the world," but because here lived Nathaniel Hawthorne, Thoreau, Emerson, and the lamented Louise Alcott. On the shore of Lake Walden, one of the most beautiful sheets of water in New England, is a pile of stones marking the spot where was located the hut in which Thoreau lived for some time. Haw- thorne w^rote in his note-book: " The scenery of Concord, as I beheld it from the summits of the hills, has no very marked characteristics, but has a good deal of quiet beauty in keeping with the river. There are broad and peaceful mead- ow^s, which I think are among the most satisfying objects in natural scenery. The heart reposes on them with a feeling that few things else can give, because almost all other objects are abrupt and clearly defined; but a meadow stretches out like a small infinity, 5^et with a secure homeliness which we do not find either in an expanse of water or air. The hills which border these meadows are wide swells of land, or long and gradual ridges, some of them densely covered with woods," 38 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. The places which the visitor will especially enjoy seeing are the " Old Manse," the Concord Monument, the graves of the British soldiers who fell in the memorable battle of April 19, 1775, and the Davis Museum of relics in the Old Court House. Cemeteries. The cemeteries now in use are all situated in the outskirts of Bos- ton. The city, several years ago, forbade, by ordinance, all burials in graves within the old city limits. The ancient burying grounds are described in the chapter on " Old Landmarks." The following is a list of the cemeteries now in use in the city, or which have offices in the city: Catholic Ce))ietet'y, Roxbury District, Fenwick Street. Cedar Grove, Dorchester District, between Milton, Adams, and Granite streets. East Boston Cemetery, East Boston, Swift, corner Bennington Street. Evergreeji Cetnetery, Brighton District, near Chestnut Hill Reservoir. Forest Hills Cemetery, Jamaica Plains District, Morton Street. Gethsemane Cemetery, West Roxbury District, Brook Farm, Baker Street. Hand-i)i-Hand Cet)ictery, West Roxbury District, Grove Street. A Hebrew burying ground. Israelitish Burying Ground, East Boston, Byron, corner Homer Street. Moujit Auburn Cemetery, in Cambridge and Watertown. Mount Benedict Cemetery, West Roxbury District, Arnold Street. Mount Calvary Cemetery, West Roxbury District, Mount Hope Street, near Canterbury. Mount Hope Cemetery, West Roxbury District, Walk Hill Street. St. Augustine Cemetery, Dorchester Street, South Boston. Warren Cemetery, Roxbury District, Kearsarge Avenue. IVoodlaiun Cemetery, Everett. The only cemeteries which have more than a local interest are Mount Auburn and Forest Hills. Moufit Auburn Cemetery, the most widely-known burial-place in this country, is partly in Cambridge and partly in Watertown. It is reached by street cars marked " Cambridge " on dasher, and " Mount Auburn and Newton" on end signs, which, starting from Bowdoin Square, pass along Green, Chambers, and Cambridge streets. West Boston Bridge, Main and Harvard streets. Harvard Square, and Brattle Street. This beautiful resting-place of the dead was IN AND AROUND BOSTON. 39 consecrated in 1831. Containing about 125 acres, it has more than thirty miles of avenues and paths. This is the oldest garden cemetery in the United States, and was first established by the Massachusetts Horticultural Association, in connection with an experimental garden. The place was first known as Stone's Woods, and was much frequented on account of its rural attractions. The diversified surface, with its wooded hills, quiet vales, and verdure- wreathed ponds, gives unusual opportunities to the landscape archi- tect. On the top of the highest hill is a stone tower, from which an extensive view of the surrounding country is to be had. Mount Auburn is the shrine to which many pilgrims come, because of the eminent dead who are buried here. Passing through the Egyptian entrance gate, and following the first roadway to the left, we reach, after a short walk, the grave of James Russell Lowell, under the shade of a tall hornbeam tree. The grave is simply marked by an old-fashioned slate slab, with angel's head and wings, and bears the following inscription: Sacred to the memory of James Russell Lowell. Born 1819. Died 1891. And of his wife, Maria White. Born 1821. Died 1853. And also of his second wife, Frances Dunlap. Born 1825. Died 1885. Near by are the names of two of his children : Blanche, "a lily of a day," 1847, and Rose, 1849. 1850. Ascending the path just beyond to Indian Ridge, directly behind Lowell's grave, at the entrance to Catalpa Path, we stand before a sculptured marble sarcophagus bearing the single name, Longfellow. On the same ridge is Motley's grave, in the Motley family lot. Fol- lowing Catalpa Path, but bearing to the west and crossing Central and Cyprus avenues, we come to the granite Sphinx, by Martin Milmore. This masterly work, the gift of Jacob Bigelow, in 1872, stands in front of the Gothic granite chapel, and is a memorial of those who died for the Union. Leaving the Sphinx and following Cyprus to Walnut Avenue, we approach the tower before mentioned. *" In the neighborhood of the tower, on Walnut Avenue, is the red stone 40 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. sarcophagus of the great orator, Rufus Choate. Near the tower are also the graves of Edwin Booth (Anemone Path), Charlotte Cushman (Palm Avenue), Charles Sumner (Arethusa Path), and Edward Everett (Magnolia Avenue). Near the base of the tower is Pyrola Path, lead- ing from Walnut Avenue to the Fuller lot, on which is the monument raised to the memory of Margaret Fuller and her husband, the Marquis Ossoli of Italy. Just beyond, on Bellwort Avenue, is the grave of Agassiz, marked by a rough-hewn granite boulder, brought from the glacier of the Aar in Switzerland. The grave of Phillips Brooks is on Menoza Path, from Spruce Avenue, a short walk from the chapel. Other interesting graves are those of President Jared Sparks, historian (Garden Avenue); Anson Burlingame (Spruce Avenue), John G. Palfrey, historian (Sweetbriar Path); President Josiah Quincy, (Sweetbriar Path), " Fanny Fern," sister of N. P. Willis (Eglantine Path, leading from Fir to Spruce); James T. Fields (Elder Path, lead- ing from Walnut to Spruce), Rev. William Ellery Channing (Green- briar Path, leading from Pine Avenue), and Henry F. Durant, founder of Wellesley College (Osier Path, leading from Willow Avenue to Indian Ridge Path). Of the statuary at Mount Auburn, that within the chapel is the most noteworthy — the figures, in marble, of John Winthrop, by Horatio Greenough, modeled in 1856 ; of James Otis, by Thomas Crawford, of the same date ; of John Adams, by Randolph Rogers, 1859; 2,nd of Joseph Story, by his son, William W. Story, 1853. The bronze statue of Nathaniel Bowditch, at the left of the avenue lead- ing from the entrance gates to the chapel, is by Ball Hughes. Forest Hills Cemetery. — This beautiful cemetery is near the Forest Hills Station of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railway, Old Colony division. It is also reached by the Forest Hill line of electric cars. The gateway, constructed of Roxbury stone and Cale- donia freestone, is a unique piece of work. On the front, in golden letters, is the inscription : I AM THE RESURRECTION AND THE LIFE. And on the inner face — He THAT KEEPETH THEE WILL NOT SLUMBER. The gi'ounds of the cemetery are very picturesque, with hills and dales, woods and greensward, and pretty sheets of water. Among its interesting memorials, on the summit of Mount Warren, is the m AND AROUND BOSTON. 41 tomb of Gen. Joseph Warren, the hero of Bunker Hill ; on Dearborn Hill is the monument of Gen. H. A. S. Dearborn, who laid out the grounds ; the grave of Rear-Admiral Winslow, in Orange Path, marked by a block of rough granite from Kearsarge Mountain ; a granite monument marks the grave of Rear-Admiral Henry Knox Thatcher, on Tantana Path ; in near neighborhood are the graves of William Lloyd Garrison (on Smilax Path), James Freeman Clarke (Ageratum Path), and J. M. Manning, pastor of the Old South Church from 1857 to 1882 ; in close neighborhood, also, are graves of John Gilbert, the actor (Brook Path), and E. L. Davenport (Arethusa Path), the latter marked by a marble memorial, placed by his daugh- ter, Fanny Davenport, in iSSo. The grave of Oliver Ditson, the music publisher, is marked by Thomas Ball's beautiful ideal figure of St. John. In the Soldiers' Lot is the Soldiers' Monument, erected by the city of Roxbury, and designed by Martin Milmore. The most notable piece of sculpture in the cemetery is the memorial to Martin Milmore and his 3'ounger brother, James, who died several years before him. It is on Cypress and Poplar avenues, and is the work of Daniel C. French. It represents the Angel of Death staying the hand of the sculptor, and it received a medal of the third class in the Paris Salon of 1891. Note.— Further particulars, accompanied by illustrations, of many of the out- lying localities mentioned in this chapter, will be found in Rand, McNally & Co.'s '■'■Handy Guide to the A^ew England States,'' which is revised annually. III. THE CITY'S PARKS AND SQUARES. The Common. — Of the many urban parks and squares the one which will first claim the attention of the visitor is the dear old Com- mon, which, since the settlement of the town, has been set apart for the use and pleasure of all the people. In 1640 a vote was passed by the town that, with the exception of " 3 or 4 lotts to make up ye streete from bro Robte Walkers to ye Round Marsh," no more land should be taken from the Common, and the power of this vote, and the loyalty of the citizens in upholding it, kept the Common sacred to the uses of the people. When the city charter was adopted the right to alienate any portion of the enclosure was withheld from the city government. In the early days the Common was used as a pasture and training field; but that the people enjo3^ed it then very much as later genera- tions do is shown by the following extract from an "Account of Two Voyages," published in London in 1675 : "On the south there is a small but pleasant Commons, where the gallants, a little before sunset, walk with their Mar ma /^t-Madams, as we do in Moorfields, etc., till the nine o'clock bell brings them home to their respective habita- tions, when presently the constables walk their rounds to see good orders kept, and to take up loose people." Before and long after this the Common was the usual place for executions. People accused of witchcraft, murderers, pirates, and other malefactors here met their doom. But in 1812 a memorial, signed by a large number of citizens, induced the selectmen to order that the Common should no longer be used for such a purpose. The level ground east of Charles Street has been used from the very earliest times as a parade-ground. Here take place the annual parade and drumhead election of the (42) Established in 1863. M Henry F. Miller Grand and Upright... Piano Fortes SPECIAL FEATURES ARE The Tone... Which is MUSICAL as well as powerful, and notable for a sweet singing quality. The Action... Perfected in all points, which enables pianists to produce extremes of musical sentiment and or- chestral EFFECTS. The Cases... In various woods, from new and original designs, classically correct in style, and fine examples of a RT I ST I c' thought . The Durability... And lasting qualities obtained through a careful SELECTION OF MATERIAL and the best of work- manship. rrir;;^!:^H^''"'^'^ Henry F. iviiller Piano Fortes. "Your piano stands unequalled."— Louis Ma as. "You have no rival to fear either here or in Europe; your piano is in many respects superior to anv other."— Carl Stasny. "Your Artist's Grand to-day stands the first in the land."— Calixa Lavallee. "Positively superior to anv make that I have ever played."— Wm. H. Shervvood." "Have never before found so many desirable artistic qualities combined in one piano."— Charles Dennee. "The most complete and satisfactorv that has come under mynotice."— Edward B. Perry. These testimonials are from the Henry F. Miller Piano Forte Catalogue. Send for it. Mailed free on application. Henry F. Miller & Sons Piano Co. 88 BOYLSTON ST., BOSTON. Branch House, 1 123 Chestnut St., Philadelphia. ^Pp. the Boston Common. Near Tremont Street. THE CITY'S PARKS AND SQUARES. 4^ Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company, the oldest military organization in the country, and here the Governor delivers to the newly elected officers their commissions for the year. The present area of the Common is about forty-eight acres, bounded by Tremont, Park, Beacon, Charles, and Boylston streets. It is inclosed by an iron fence, and, with its broad and shaded walks and grand old elms, it is a veritable blessing to those who cross it for business or pleasure ; in summer, a green and quiet refuge into which one may escape from the glare, the heat, and the rush of the town ; and in winter in its snowy drapery affording equally beautiful and restful views. One of the conspicuous objects in the Common, standing near the Park Street mall, is the Brewer Foujitain, the gift to the city of the late Gardner Brewer, Esq., which began to play for the first time on June 3, 1868. It is a copy in bronze of a fount- ain designed by the French artist Lienard, executed for the Paris World's Fair of 1855, where it was awarded a gold medal. The figures at the base represent Neptune and Amphitrite, Acis and Galatea. The Soldiers' and Sailors' Mo7nuneiit, on the hill by the Frog Pond, occupies historic ground. Here the British constructed a redoubt during the Siege, when the Common, with earthworks on its highest points, was the British camp. The platform of the monument, thirty-eight feet square, rests on a solid bed of masonry sixteen feet deep. The four bronze statues, on the projecting pedestals, represent Peace, a female figure bearing an olive branch, with eyes turned to the south; the sailor, carrying a drawn cutlass, looking toward the sea; History, another female figure holding a tablet and stylus, and looking upward; and the sol- dier, a federal infantryman, the best figure on the monument, stand- ing at ease. The four large bronze reliefs between the pedestals represent " The Departure for the War," "The Sanitary Commis- sion," " The Return from the War," and "The Departure of the Sailor from Home. " The main shaft of the monument, a Roman-doric column of white granite, rises from the pedestal between the statues. The four allegorical figures at its base represent the North, South, East, and West. The shaft is crowned by a female figure, eleven feet high, representing the " Genius of America." In one hand she grasps the American flag, in the other a drawn sword and laurel wreath. The monument bears an eloquent inscription, written by President Eliot of Harvard College. This monument was designed 44 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. \ by the late Martin Milmore, and cost the city $75,000. It was dedi- cated with great pomp on September 17, 1877. The monument by Robt. Kraus, which commemorates the "Boston Massacre of 1770," stands near the Tremont Street mall, between the West Street gate and Boylston Street. On the front of the granite shaft is a figure typifying " Revolution Breaking the Chains." The bas-relief on the base represents the scene of the massacre as it was presented in an old plate published in London, with a " Short Nar- rative." On one corner of the relief are these words : From that moment we may date the severance of the British Empire.— Daniel Webster. On the shaft are cut the names of the victims of the massacre. The monument, erected by the State, was dedicated on November 14, 1888, on which occasion the late John Boyle O'Reilly was the poet. On the Boylston Street side of the Common is the old Central Burying Ground, described in the chapter entitled " Old Landmarks." The Shaw Memorial is the most recent, and is regarded as the most artistic and beautiful ornament to the Common. It stands im- mediately in front of the State House, at the corner of Beacon and Park streets, and is a monument to Colonel Shaw, who was com- mander of the first Massachusetts regiment of colored men which fought in the War of the Rebellion, and who lost his life on the field of battle. It is the work of Augustus St. Gaudens of New York, and is in the form of a sort of shrine, bearing many inscriptions and sur- mounted by a bronze group, facing Beacon Street, and enclosed with- in a stone canopy. This represents, in life size, Colonel Shaw mounted and riding beside a column of his troops. The action of the crowded figures is exceedingly spirited, and the whole forms a work of art of great importance and beauty. The Public Garden, containing about tv/enty-four and a quarter acres, was formerly a " marsh at the bottom of the Common," and from 1791 to 1819 was occupied by ropewalks, the land having been granted by the city for this purpose. These ropewalks were burned in the latter year, and, the lands having become valuable, their owners were about to divide and sell the tract in lots for dwelling and business purposes. This aroused the citizens, who made such effective resistance that, in 1S24, the city bought for $55,000 what it had given away in 1791. It was then decided to establish a public garden here, THE CITY'S PARKS AND SQUARES. 45 but the matter lagged for several years and little was done until 1859, when an act of the Legislature and the vote of the city finally settled the question. In 1S39 a number of citizens established a Botanic Garden near the corner of Beacon and Charles streets. The garden was successful for a few years, until its conservatory was destroyed by fire. The irregular artificial pond in the center of the garden con- tains a trifle less than four acres, and was constructed in 1859. It is spanned by a ponderous iron and stone bridge, which has been styled by the local wits the " Bridge of Size." The city annually makes liberal appropriations for the maintenance of the garden. It con- tains many varieties of ornamental trees and shrubs, and in the season of flowers thousands of bedded plants are displayed. The sculpture exhibited in the Public Garden does not particularly enhance its beauty. The best piece of work is the equestrian statue of Washington, by Thomas Ball, which stands in the central path, near the Arlington Street entrance. This statue, which it took the sculptor three years to model, was unveiled January 29, 1869. It is considered one of the half-dozen really great equestrian statues which the world possesses. There are few people to-day who appre- ciate the size of the statue. The extreme length of the group is 16 feet, height 16 feet; the height of the figure of Washington is 12 feet. The pedestal, of Quincy granite, was designed by Ham- met Billings, and is 15 feet in height and 18 feet in length. The total cost of the work was $42,000. It was cast by Silas Mosman of the Ames Manufacturing Company at Chicopee. The reader may form some idea of its size when he knows that a tall man may stand under the barrel of the horse. To see it to advantage, one ought to be at least 100 feet away from the statue. Near the Washington Statue is a fountain, whose basin is adorned by a marble "Venus Rising from the Sea." The fountain is so arranged as to throw, when in action, a fine spray over the figure. Another monument on the Arlington Street side of the garden com- memorates " The discovery that the inhaling of ether causes insensi- bility to pain." This monument, the work of J. Q. A. Ward, was the gift of Thomas Lee, and was dedicated in June, 1868. It is of granite and red marble, and the ideal figures surmounting the shaft illustrate the story of the "Good Samaritan." The bas-reliefs represent, re- spectively, a surgical operation, the patient under the influence of ether, the Angel of Mercy descending to relieve suffering humanity, 46 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. a field hospital, with a wounded soldier in the care of the surgeons,, and an allegory of the Triumph of Science. On the Beacon Street, side of the garden is the Stattie of Ediuard Everett, by W. W. Story. The fund for this statue was raised by a public subscription in 1865, and the statue was presented to the city in 1867. The sculp- tor has endeavored to represent Everett in the attitude of the orator as he spoke the words, " Washington, the guiding star." The bronze statue of Charles Sumner, on the Boylston Street side, represents the statesman in the act of speaking, with a roll of manu- script in the left hand, the right hand extended downward in a ges- ture. This statue is also the work of Thomas Ball, the sculptor of the Washington. It was erected in 187S, at a cost of $15,000, raised by subscription. Near the Sumner Statue is one of Thomas Cass, the brave colonel of the gth Massachusetts Volunteers. This is the work of Stephen O'Kelley, and it was presented to the city b}^ the Society of the 9th Regiment. The New Public Park System. One of the grandest features of Boston is her " Public Park Sys- tem," which, when completed, will form an almost unbroken chain of parks and parkways from Craigie's Bridge, at the north end, to City Point, South Boston. The park commissioners have expended over $11,000,000 upon the cit3''s parks, squares, and parkways, and no peo- ple in the world are so bountifully supplied with beautiful and ac- cessible pleasure-grounds. Every section of the city is included in this provision, and the neighboring cities and towns are not to be left behind. Thus, Cambridge is building a system of riverside and other parks; Newton, Maiden, Waltham, Brookline, Quincy, and Hyde Park have fine park works in construction; Lynn has a public forest of 2,000 acres in L^mn Woods, and, in addition to these, there is the great Metropolitan system. This includes 3,200 acres of wilder- ness at Middlesex Fells, 4,000 acres at the Blue Hills, 475 acres at Stony Brook Woods, a small reservation at Beaver Brook, the pro- jected Mystic Valley Parkway, the banks of the Charles to be pre- served and improved, and a magnificent ocean shore reservation partly finished at Revere Beach and Winthrop. Altogether, in the Metropolitan Parks District, Greater Boston already has between 13,000 and 14,000 acres devoted to public uses for park and water sup- ply purposes. a?' Boi^bops apd <5l7oeolates 1^ rRESh, PURE. DELICIOUS. Novelties in Fancy Baskets, Boxes, and Bonbonnieres |;^ Suitable for Presents. Candies carefully packed and shipped to all parts of r2^ the country by mail or express. \ )?^ 146 Tremont Street, (near west st.) BOSTON, MASS. Try our Refreshing Ice Cream Soda. w% THE CITY'S PARKS AND SQUARES. 47 The first link in the green chain encircling the city is Charlesbank, which lies along the river front on Charles Street, between Cragie's and West Boston bridges. It is a broad promenade, about 600 feet long, bordered by trees and shrubs, and provided with public gymnasiums and baths for the people's use, and with playground and sand courts for the children. Charlesbank is ultimately to be extended for miles along the river and past the Fens. The Fens. — The area of the Fens is about 115 acres, artistically laid out with roads, bridle-paths, and footpaths along the waterway. The main entrance to the Fens is by the way of Commonwealth Avenue beyond Massachusetts Avenue. Here is Miss Whitney's ideal statue of Leif Ericsson, the Norse discoverer of America. The inscription reads : Leif The Discoverer, v. Son of Erik, Who sailed from Iceland And landed on this continent A. D. 1000. « The farther end of the Fens affords wide expanses of meadows, trees, and shrub-planted slopes. Of the bridges which span the waterway, the stone Boylston Street bridge was designed by the late H. H. Richardson. The Fens opens the parkway, which under va- rious names — as Audubon Road, Fenway, Riverway, Jamaicaway, and Arborway — winds through Longwood and Brookline, along the Muddy River, Leverett Pond, Ward's Pond, and Jamaica Pond, to the Arnold Arboretum and Franklin Park. Leverett Park. — This section of the parkway, lying between Tre- mont and Perkins streets, comprises sixty acres of land in Boston and fifteen acres in Brookline, and contains Leverett Pond, of twelve acres. Ward's Pond, of 2.7 acres, Willow Pond, and a number of smaller ponds or pools, most of the latter being provided for the proposed Natural History Garden which it is expected that the Boston Society of Natural History wnll sometime establish here. The practical completion of this park opens to use a most varied and attractive pleasure-resort, with the scenery of a sloping valley rising gradually from the lake at its lower end to a considerable eminence at its head, with numerous smaller ponds compassed with verdant banks and woodsides, among which wind the paths, ending in the 48 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. sylvan seclusion of Ward's Pond, which nestles in a deep depression between the wooded knoll and the high ridge of Perkins Street. Jamaica Park, comprising about 120 acres, which encircles Jamaica Pond, is one of the loveliest stretches of landscape in the park system. The pond covers seventy acres, and affords an ideal place for boating in the summer and for skating in the winter. The grounds are laid out in walks and drives, shelters are provided, and the Pinebank Refectory is a delightful place for refreshment. The views across the water, with its gently curving, wooded shores, are enchanting and worth traveling many miles to enjoy. And all this beauty is within a half -hour's drive of the center of the city. Take the electric cars for Jamaica Plain, and, leaving the car at the corner of Center and Pond streets, walk a short distance to the west to the beautiful Jamaicaway and revel in the charms of this lovely park. The Arnold Arboretum, the largest and finest tree museum in the world, is a place of great natural beauty. It was formerly a part of the estate of Benjamin Bussey, which he bequeathed to Harvard Uni- versity for a school of agriculture, horticulture, and veterinar}^ science. The Bussey Institute was opgned in 1870, and two years later the Arboretum was established. It was named in honor of James Arnold, a wealthy merchant of New Bedford, who left the Arboretum $100,000. The Arboretum contains 167 acres, of which 122 belonged to the Bussey estate. Under an agreement between the university and the city (to hold for 999 years), the university maintains and develops the Arboretum, and the city constructs and cares for its roads and paths and polices it. It has broad, pleasant driveways, winding footpaths, and a magnificent piece of the primeval forest. Franklin Park embraces about 600 acres of picturesque country, whose natural beauties have not been disturbed in the process of opening and developing the territory for public use. The broad drives wind among woods and glades, through quiet valleys, and along breezy uplands from which delightful views of town and country can be enjoyed. Among its attractive features, are, on one side, the great " Playstead," the " Greetmg," and the " Deer Park"; on another side the "Wilderness," and on the "Country" side " Ellicottdale," the " Dairy," and " Sheepfold." Roomy and comfortable carriages stand near the theater at Blue Hill entrance, and for 25 cents one may take a seven-mile drive over perfect roads, which take in all the points of interest in the park. A The Wendell PITTSFIELD, BERKSHIRE COUNTY, MASS. This new, fire-proof hotel is situated in the finest part of the town, opposite the park. Is elegantly furnished and equipped with all modern improve- ments. The view from the upper floors is unsur- passed in the Berkshire Hills. Open the entire year. European and American plans. PLUMB & CLARK, PROP'RS. The New American PITTSFIELD, BERKSHIRE COUNTY, MASS. Will be reopened in June. Newly furnighed through- out. Suites with private baths. Elevator, electric lights, etc. Finest office and dining room outside of Boston. Open entire year. Rates $2.00 to $2.50 per day. Bus meets all trains. PLUMB & CLARK, PROP'RS. The Maplewood PITTSFIELD, MASS., Season of 1899 will open June 1st. The hotel is situated in a park of several acres. Is equipped with all modern improvements. Elevator, electric lights, rooms with or without baths, etc. Has a southern exposure of 450 feet. Largest summer resort in the Berkshire Hills. ARTHUR W. PLUMB, ProP'R. THE CITY'S PARKS AND SQUARES. 49 bridge to carry the Forest Hills entrance over the traffic road , leading from Forest Hills Street to the cemetery, has been bviilt, thus making the connection of the Arborway with the drives of Franklin Park complete. EUicott House, at the entrance to the playgrounds of Ellicottdale, has been opened to the public since 1895. Toilet, bath, dressing, and check rooms are provided for use in connection with the tennis courts to be laid out at Ellicottdale. A long expected branch of the electric railroad has been extended from Washington Street, through Williams Street to a point near Ellicott House, and thence through Forest Hills Street and the new traffic road to Forest Hills Cemetery; thence by way of Morton Street to Washington Street, near the Forest Hills Station. This loop now brings passengers to the gates of the park on its western border, where are situated its most picturesque picnic grounds and rambles, and the new playground, and has proved a great convenience to visitors. These cars may be taken in the Subway. A refectory has been built on the hill near the junction of Blue Hill Avenue and Glen Lane, where the old Gleason House formerly stood. The plans provide for a brick and terra-cotta structure, 121 feet long by 69 feet wide, containing on the ground level a large restaurant, private dining-room, service-rooms, toilet-rooms, and staircases leading to a roof-garden, which forms, in effect, a second story, having pavilions 21 feet square upon each corner, con- taining stairs, serving, and toilet room. These pavilions are con- nected by covered galleries on three sides, the remainder of the space being open to the sky. A collection of fancy pigeons, including archangels, blondinettes, English owls, fantails, tumblers, magpies, nuns, and turbits, from the estate of the late Edmund Quincy at Isle au Haute, was presented to the department by Dr. H. P. Quincy, and are domiciled at the propagating house in the nursery at the southerly end of the park. They are a source of much attraction to visitors. A flock of about 200 sheep also attracts considerable notice, and is a popular feature of the park, the herding of the sheep by the shej^herd dogs being an interesting sight. Scarboro Pond, seven acres in area, adds very materially to the attractiveness of the park. Its summer level, which gives it a depth of eight feet, is in winter lowered to a depth of about four feet to 50 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. make it safe for skating. Eventually a boating and skating house will be built here. The beautiful parkway drive ends at Franklin Park, but begins again in the Dorchester^vay, which, in connection with the proposed strandway, will open into Marine Park. Marine Park, on South Boston Point, includes historic Castle Island, and is connected with the latter by bridge. From its south- eastern extremity an immense pier, 1,300 feet in length, has been built out into the bay, and is a crowded resort on pleasant Sundays. A head-house was built at the shore end of the point. This build- ing is flanked on two sides by raised platforms to serve as prome- nades, which will extend to the iron pier, and below and between which 500 bath-houses will be located. The house will contain a general waiting-room on the ground or terrazzo floor, with men's and women's waiting and dressing rooms and bath toilets, the spaces under the promenades being devoted to offices for the police and a foreman's and workmen's room. On the second floor two large cafes, connected by a corridor and service-rooms, adjoin the prome- nades, the rest of this floor being occupied with the upper part of the general waiting-room and the stairway to the restaurant, which is on the third floor above the waiting-room. Over the cafes are the kitchen and store-room, and the attic contains the laundry. Castle Island has been a fortified spot since 1634. Castle William, which stood here when the Revolutionary War broke out, was burned by the British when they evacuated Boston. The Continentals then took possession of the island and restored the fort. In 1798 its name was formally changed to Fort Independence, and the following year it was ceded to the United States. From 1785 to 1805 it was the place of confinement for prisoners sentenced to hard labor, provision having been made in the act of cession to the United States that this privi- lege should be retained. The present fort was built about the year 1855. ^A Park for the North End. — The agitation for a park for the thickly populated region north of Hanover Street resulted, in 1894, in the passage of an act by the Legislature authorizing the park board to take lands to a limit of $300,000 in assessed values, and providing $50,000 for construction. Soon after its passage the board examined the locality with a view of determining the most suitable location for the proposed pleasure-ground, with regard both to natural advantages THE CITY'S PARKS AND SQUARES. 51 and a fair amount of territory for the desired purposes. As a result of this examination the commission secured a small tract for which a complete plan has been j^repared, which may be described as follows: The land to be devoted to jDurposes of recreation lies between the an- cient Copps Hill Burying Ground and the sheet of water which is the confluence of the Charles and Mystic rivers. It is separated from the burying ground by Charter Street, and it is crossed by the busy waterside thoroughfare called Commercial Street. Between the two streets the narrow public domain slopes steeply down between two ranks of tenement houses, thus opening a prospect from the already frequented Copps Hill. Between Commercial Street and the water the original shore-line has disappeared under a tangle of more or less ancient sea-walls, fillings, and pile structures. The plan is designed to make this confined space afford oppor- tunity for the greatest possible variety of modes of recreation. Thus, a resting-place commanding a view of the water is provided upon a broad terrace on a level with the upper street; an ample promenade adjacent to the water is provided upon a pier, the upper deck of which will be reached from the terrace by a bridge which will span Commercial Street; a good place for children to play is provided on a beach, which will form the shore of the small haven to be formed by the pier; dressing-rooms will be jDrovided for the use of bathers, floats, and other conveniences for boatmen. The stone terrace and its ac- companying flights of steps will be plainly, but substantially, con- structed, while the steep earth-slopes at the ends and below the high wall will be planted with low shrubbery. The foot-bridge spanning Commercial Street will be a light steel truss. The new or restored beach will terminate against sea-walled piers of solid filling, from the end of one of which the long and substantial pleasure pier will run out to and along the harbor commissioners' line. Between the beach and Commercial Street there is room for a little greensward and a screening background of shrubbery. IV. OLD LANDMARKS. To meet the requirements of a great and growing modern city, man}- of the interesting old landmarks of Boston have been sacrificed. But much remains for the edification and instruction of tovirists who are interested in historical relics. Faneuil Hall, the Old State House, the Old South Church, Christ Church, and King's Chapel are shrines which attract and inspire all true Americans, and many a pleasant and profitable hour may be spent in reviewing their history and asso- ciations as well as in visiting them. In no other American city are there so many objects which will awaken reverent regard for that past which is the birthright of America's sons and daughters. Economy of time and strength should be considered in all sight-seeing, and, as most of the interesting his- torical landmarks of Boston are in the north part of the town, this is not difficult to attain. A pleasant half -day may be spent in doing the Old State House, Fanueil Hall, Quincy Market, which is just across Merchants' Row from Faneuil Hall ; Christ Church, and Copps Hill Burying Ground. Another half-day should be given to the Old South Meeting-House, King's Chapel, King's Chapel Burying Ground, the Old Granary Burying Ground, and the Central Burying Ground on the Common. In the following pages will be found a brief historical and descriptive sketch of each of these places. Faneuil Hall, in Faneuil Hall Square, is the " Cradle of Liberty" to all who have studied the history of the United States. The first Faneuil Hall was built in 1742, and was a market-house. It was given to the town by Peter Faneuil, a wealthy merchant of French descent, who stipulated that it should be legally authorized and maintained under proper regulations. The enlargement of the plan to include a second story for a hall was a later thought. When the people voted to accept the building they provided that it should be (52) OLD LANDMARKS. 53 called Faneuil Hall ' ' forever. " The first Faneuil Hall was a structure only loo feet long by 40 feet wide. It was partially destroyed by fire in 1 761, only the walls remaining, but rebuilt by the town the follow- ing year. Part of the funds used in rebuilding were raised by a lottery authorized by the State. The second building w^as completed and formally opened on March 14, 1763, and it was the patriot James Otis, then the orator, who dedicated the hall to "the cause of liberty." Here were held all the town meetings, and, in the dark days before the Revolution, the patriot orators of the time often spoke the words which inspired and kej^t moving the spirit of Libert3^ This building, which was only about half the size of the present one, and two stories high, remained so until 1S05. Then, under the direction of Bulfinch, it was much enlarged and improved. Its width was increased to 80 feet; the third story was added; the hall was made 78 feet square and 28 feet high; large galleries, rest- ing on Doric columns, were put in, and the large platform was built. The large painting which hangs at the back of the platform repre- sents Webster addressing the United States Senate on the occasion of his celebrated reply to Hayne. It is by Healy, and is interesting because of the portraits of some of the leading public men of that day. Other portraits hanging on the walls of Washington by Stuart, Faneuil by Col. Henry Sargent, Hancock (Copley), Samuel Adams, John and John Quincy Adams, and Warren (all by Copley), Commo- dore Preble, Andrew, Lincoln, and Everett, by modern artists, are mostly copies, the originals having been removed from the hall to the Art Museum for safe-keeping. Until the town became a city, in 1822, the town offices were estab- lished here, and it was the regular place of town meetings. Some of the greatest orators and agitators of the country have been heard from its platform. It was here, in 1837, that Wendell Phillips made his first anti-slavery speech. The hall is never let for money, but is at the disposal of the people whenever a sufficient number of persons, complying with certain regulations, ask to have it opened. The city charter contains a wise provision forbidding its sale or lease. It is freely opened to visitors. On the upper floor of the building is the armory of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Compan3^ the oldest military organization m the country. It contains a museum of colonial and provincial relics, which is also open to visitors. The building was re-roofed in 1899. 54 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Old State House. — On Washington Street, at the head of State Street, is the Old State House, one of the few survivals of the ante- Revolutionary buildings in the city. It is, undoubtedly, the most interesting historical building in this country, for it was here that "the child Independence was born." On this site, where had been the earliest market-place of the town, the first town house was built in 1657. This house was destroyed by fire in 1711, rebuilt a year later, and again burned in 1747. The present structure was built in 1748, and within and without the building many stirring events have occurred. It was in turn town house, court house, province court house, State house, and city hall. On the first floor was, in early times, the merchants' walk or exchange. In the eastern room of the second story, with an outlook down King Street, was the council chamber, where the royal governors of the province and the royal council sat. The western chamber was the general court-room. Over the entrance to one of these two rooms is placed the seal of the city, and over the other that of the State. During the Stamp-Act excitement the stamped clearances were burned in front of its doors. The British troops were quartered within the building in 176S, and within a few feet of its eastern porch occurred the Boston massacre, on March 5, 1770. The next day Sam Adams stood in the council chamber and made his suc- cessful demand upon the royal representatives for the immediate removal of the troops from Boston. Frothingham, in describing this event, says: " On the walls of the chamber were representatives of the two elements now in conflict — of the Absolutism that was pass- ing away, in full-length portraits of Charles II and James II robed in the royal ermine; and of a Republicanism which had grown robust and self-reliant, in the heads of Endicott, and Winthrop,and Brad- street, and Belcher. Around a long table were seated the lieutenant- governor (Hutchinson) and the members of the council, with the military officers; the scrupulous and sumptuous costumes of the civil- ians in authority — gold and silver lace, scarlet cloaks, and large wigs — mingling with the brilliant uniforms of the British army and navy. Into such imposing presence were now ushered the plainly- attired committee of the town." In the same room Generals Clinton, Howe, and Gage held a council of war just before the battle of Bunker Hill. From the balcony on the State Street side, where the royal procla- THE OLD STATE HOUSE — State, Devonshire, and Washington Streets. OLD LANDMARKS. 55 mations had been delivered, the news of the Declaration of Independ- ence was proclaimed. Inside the house "the gentlemen stood up, and each, repeating the words as they were spoken by an officer, swore to uphold the rights of his country." The proclamation was followed by a banquet in the council chamber. In 1789, at the west- ern end of the building, Washington reviewed the great procession in his honor on the occasion of his last memorable visit to Boston. Here, in 1835, William Lloyd Garrison found refuge from a mob, which had broken up an anti-slavery meeting and threatened the life of the brave agitator. When the State House was no longer needed as a public building it was remodeled and turned into business offices. The original architectural effect was wholly destroyed by the addition of a man- sard roof and other changes. But in 1880-81 public-spirited citizens began a movement which ended in the successful restoration of the building. From the second story upward the exterior of the house now has the appearance it wore in the Provincial period. The gilt eagle, with the State and city arms spread over the western front, was placed to appease over-sensitive citizens w^ho were disturbed by the restoration of the lion and unicorn, in copies, on the eastern gables. Every effort has been made to reproduce the old interior, as well as exterior, and restore, in every detail, the architecture of the Colonial period. The halls have the same floors and ceilings, and on three sides the same walls, that they had in 1747. One end wall in each of the two chambers is new, but it rests upon the same spot as the old wall. The balcony of the second story has been restored upon the model of the still-existing attic balcony, and it is reached through a window of twisted crown glass, out of which have looked all the latter royal governors of the Colony and the early governors of the State. The windows of the upper stories are modeled upon the small -paned windows of Colonial days ; but f our-paned window^s have been put in the first floor and basement to satisfy the tenants, these portions being let for business purposes. On the second floor are two main halls and several ante-rooms. The whole of the second floor, the attics, and cupola are leased by the city to the Bostonian Society. The terms of the lease provide for an annual payment by the society of $100, and the maintenance of the rooms for public exhibition. An interesting collection of antiquities, relating to the building itself, and to the early history of the city and State, with several portraits, and 56 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. quaint, crude paintings of ancient date, is exhibited here. Admis- sion free. Old South Meeting-House, on Washington Street, corner of Milk Street, has been called the "Sanctuary of Freedom." The ground on which it stands was the place where Governor John Winthrop had his home, and here he died in 1649. '^^i^ land was afterward owned by Madam Mary Norton, wife of Rev. John Norton, who gave it in trust ' ' forever for the erecting of a house for their assembling them- selves together publiquely to worship God." The Old South Society worshiped here from 1669 to 1S75, when they moved to their new place of worship on Boylston Street. The first meeting-house was a small cedar building, erected in 1C70, and in this building Benjamin Franklin was baptized. In 1730 the present brick structure took the place of the first meeting-house. Although a place of worship, the old meeting-house had, at times, served other pur^^oses. In the stir- ring times that preceded the Revolution, when Faneuil Hall was too small to hold the town meetings, the church opened its doors to the patriotic crowds. When the British occupied the town the}^ desecrated the place and injured the building by using it as a place for cavalry drill. The fire of 1S72 came very near to the precious building, but it escaped de- struction, and it then served as a post office until the completion of the post office wing of the Government building. In 1876 the build- ing was sold to be torn down and replaced by a business block. But the "Old South Preservation Committee," composed of twenty-five Boston women, came to the rescue and purchased it conditionally for $430,000. The meeting-house is now used as a loan museum of historical relics, which include many interesting portraits, quaint old furniture, flags, and weapons. It is open daily, and the entrance fee (25 cents) becomes a part of the preservation fund. It is still some- times used for public meetings ; and the regular " Old South Lectures to Young People," on local history, given by eminent men, are features of the winter seasons. The tablet on the tower was placed in 1S67 : Old South Church gathered 1669 First House built 1670 This House erected 1729 Desecrated by British Troops 1775-6. OLD LANDMARKS: 57 The Old Corner Book Store.— After leaving the Old South it 'would be well for the visitor to cross Washington vStreet, and, going one block to the north, on the corner of School Street, he will find the oldest building now standing in Boston, On this ground was once the dwelling of Ann Hutchinson, the strong-minded woman who was banished for heresy in 1637. The present building bears the date of 1 7 1 2 , and was the property of Thomas Crease, who used it as a dwelling a.nd apothecary shop. It was occupied by different tenants, as a dwelling or for offices, until 1S16, when Dr. Samuel Clarke, whose son. Rev. James Freeman Clarke, was born here, restored the old building Lo its original purpose of a drug store. Doctor Clarke was succeeded in 1828 by Messrs. Carter & Hendee, who first used the front as a book ^tore, audit has been devoted to this purpose ever since. It has been )ccupied successively by the firms of Carter & Hendee, Allen & ricknor, William D. Ticknor & Co., Ticknor & Fields, E. P. Dutton & Co., A. Williams & Co. , and, lastly, by its present tenants, Damrell & Upham. Through some of these firms it may be said to have oecome the progenitor of the great publishing houses of Houghton, Mifflin & Co., Roberts Brothers, and of the music business of Oliver Ditson. Here James T. Fields, James R. Osgood, and Benjamin H. Ticknor began their careers as clerks, and here many of the famous vvriters and students of Boston love to gather and exchange greetings md ideas as they lingered in the quaint old building which has ivatched the coming and going of so many generations. King's Chapel, on Tremont Street, corner of School Street, is a olain and solid edifice of dark granite, with a massive square tower, surrounded by wooden Ionic columns. The interior of the church, vvith its rows of columns supporting the ceiling, the richly painted windows of the chancel, the antique pulpit and reading-desk, the cnural tablets, and quaintly sculptured marble monuments that line :he walls, will impress the visitor with its likeness to old English :hurches. The first King's Chapel was built in 1689 by the first Episcopal ohurch Society of Boston. This society had previously worshiped first in the town house and then in the Old South, under the protec- tion of Governor Andros, and to the great sorrow of the Congrega- Lionalists. The first chapel was built of wood. In 17 10 the building was enlarged. Pews were reserved for the Governor and British army and naval officers. The walls and pillars were hung with the 58 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. escutcheons of the king and ro^-al governors, and upon the pulpit, stood an hour-glass to mark the length of the sermons. An early description of Boston states that " King William and Queen Mary gave them a pulpit-cloth, a cushion, a rich set of plate for the com- munion table, and a piece of painting, reaching from the bottom to the top of the east end of the church, containing the Decalogue, the Lord's Prayer, and the Apostles' Creed*." The present chapel was completed in 1753. The plan embraced a steeple, but none was ever built. During the reign of Queen Anne it was called Queen's Chapel, and for a while after the Revolution the name was changed to Stone Chapel; but in time the love of the people for ancient local names caused them to return to King's Chapel, which has been retained ever since. After the evacuation the chapel re- mained closed until late in the year 1777, when the Old South Society, whose meeting-house had been so nearly destroyed by the British troops, occupied it, using it for nearly five years, while its own meeting-house was undergoing repairs. In 1782 the church was reopened by the remnant of the old society, with James Freeman as " reader;" and under his teaching the Unitarian faith was professed by the congregation, so that what had been the first Episcopal church in Boston became the first Unitarian. In 17S7, Doctor Freeman was ordained rector, and thereupon the connection of the church with the American Protestant Episcopal church was terminated. Christ Church, Salem Street (North End), was built by the second Episcoj^al Society in Boston, and is the oldest church edifice now standing in the city. It was dedicated December 29, 1723, and its first rector was Rev. Timothy Cutter, D. D., w^ho served until his death, August 7, 1765. This old church is a very interesting land- mark, as it retains, generally, its original appearance. This is the church from whose steeple • it is supposed the lanterns of Paul Revere were hung out to warn the country of the march of the British troops on Lexington and Concord. A tablet on the front of the church, placed there October 17, 1578, bears this inscription : The signal lanterns of Paul Revere displayed in the steeple of this church, April 18, 1775, warned the country of the march of the British troops to Lexington and Concord. But some very good authorities claim that this is a mistake, and that the North Church referred to by Paul Revere, in a narrative CHRIST CHURCH, "OLD NORTH "-Salem Street. OLD LANDMARKS. 59 ^^iioh he prepared twenty years after the events, was the North Church, then standing in North Square. But Christ Church was also known as the " North Church," and, to support its claim, brings evi- dence which shows that Capt. John Puling, one of the wardens of the church, received the signal to display the lanterns, and that Robert Newman, the sexton, hung them out. The original steeple was blown down in the great gale of 1804; but the present one was built immediately after the fall of the old, and is an accurate reproduction of that. Aside from the steeple there is nothing in the plain exterior of the church to attract attention. The interior retains most of its ancient fixtures and the original decorations have been reproduced. The high, small-paned windows, with deep seats; the balcony supported by pillars, the top " slaves' gallery," and the old-fashioned pews, have all been preserved. The bottom of the old pulpit, of hour-glass shape, is still there; but the upper part was given away by one of the church officials in 1820, and a modern affair fills its place. The organ is not the original one, which was imported from London in 1756, but it is inclosed in the original antique case. The clock below the rail has been doing duty since 1746. The figures of the cherubim in front of the organ and the chandeliers were taken from a French vessel by the privateer " Queen of Hungary," in 1746, and presented to the church by Captain Grushea ; its Bible, prayer books, and communion service, still in use, were given to it by King George II in 1733, and the silver bears the royal arms. The chime of bells, the sweetest and most musical the town has ever had, was brought from England in 1744. It is said to be the first chime in America. Old Burying- Grounds. The four oldest burying grounds in the city proper are still pre- served and faithfully cared for, though for several years they have been unused as places for burial. They are among the most interest- ing of the landmarks of early times, and speak eloquently co us of many of the founders of Boston. King's Chapel Burying Ground, on Tremont Street, between King's Chapel and the building of the Massachusetts Historical Society, is the oldest of these ancient cemeteries, and for thirty years was the only burial place of the town. The exact date of its estab- ishment is not known, but according to Shurtliff's " Topographical 60 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON and Historical Description of Boston," the first burial here was on the 1 8th of February, 1630. The following reference to it is found in John Winthrop's record : " Cap* Welden, a hopeful younge gent & an experienced souldier dyed at Charlestowne of a consumption, and was buryed at Boston w* military funeral." Here rest the remains of Gov. John Winthrop and his son and grandson, who were governors of Connecticut; of Governor Shirley, Lady Andros (the wife of Governor Andros); John Cotton, John Davenport, the founder of New Haven, Conn. ; John Oxenbridge and Thomas Bridge, pastors of the First Church, and other well-known personages of the early days. In one of the tombs here were deposited the remains of the wife of John Winslow, who, as Mary Chilton, according to tradition, was the first woman to touch the shore at Cape Cod, springing from the boat as it approached the shore. There are many quaint old gravestones in the yard; but some of them have been moved from their original positions and set up as edgestones to paths. One of these stones has a most remarkable history. At some time the stone was removed from the grave it marked and was lost. In 1830, when some excava- tions were being made near the Old State House, it was found sev- eral feet below the surface of State Street. It is of green stone and is inscribed : HERE : LYETH THE : BODY : OF : MR WILLIAM : PADDY : AGED 58 YEARS : DEPARTED THIS : LIFE : AUGUST THE [28] 1658. On the reverse is this singular stanza of poetry : HEAR . SLEAPS . THAT BLESED . ONE . WHOES . LIEF GOD . HELP . VS . ALL . TO . LIVE THAT . SO . WHEN . TIEM . SHALL . BE THAT . WE . THIS . WORLD . MUST . LIUE WE . EVER . MAY . BE . HAPPY WITH . DLESED . WILLIAM . PADDY. Copps Hill Burying Ground, on Hull Street, a short distance from Old Christ Church, was the second burial place established in Boston. It was first used for interment in 1660, and was several times enlarged. Here are the graves of Doctors Increase, Cotton and Samuel Mather ; Rev. Dr. Andrew Eliot of the New North Church, Mrs. Mary Baker, a sister of Paul Revere ; Chief Justice OLD LANDMARKS. 61 Parker, and many who were prominent in the early history of the town. During the Siege the inclosure was occupied by the British as a military station. The soldiers used the gravestones as targets, and the marks of the bullets may yet be seen on some of them. A stone which seems to have been particularly sought out by the sol- diers in their desecration of the ground bears the following record : Here lies buried in a Stone Grave lo feet deep Capt. DANIEL MALCOM Mercht who departed this Life October 23d 1769 Aged 44 Years A true Son of Liberty a Friend to the Publick an Enemy to oppression and one of the foremost in opposing the Revenue Acts on America. Captain Malcom would be called a (.muggier at the present time, for the above inscription refers to his landing a valuable cargo of wines without paying duty upon it. But as the tax was regarded as unjust and oppressive, the citizens approved and lauded the act. The oldest stone in the graveyard is believed to be one bearing date of 1661, erected to the memory of the grandchildren of William Copp, for whom the hill was named — an industrious cobbler who lived near by. Several stones bear earlier dates, but these were altered from the original, the date i6go in one case having been changed to 1620, and 1695 to 1625. One of the oldest stones records the death of "Captain Thomas Lake, who w^as perfidiously slain by ye Indians at Kennebec Aug. 14, 1676." Captain Lake w^as a commander of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company in 1662 and 1674, and, according to the story, the slit deeply cut in his gravestone was filled with the melted bullets taken from his body. The metal was long ago chipped away by relic hunters. There are several slabs bearing armorial devices, which the superintendent of the yard is always ready to point out to visitors. During the summer months the gates are thrown open, and the people are allowed access to the cool, shaded grounds. At times, when the gates are closed, admission can be obtained by application to the superintendent, who lives in the neighborhood. The high, rough stone wall was placed when it 62 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. became necessary, in the improvement of this section of the city, to cut down that j^ortion of the hill without the limits of the burying ground. Old Granary Burying Ground, on the north side of Tremont Street, between Park Street Church and the site of the old Tremont House, is the most interesting of the old burying grounds of Boston. It was established in 1660, at the same time that the Copps Hill Bury- ing Grotmd was laid out. The ground was formerly a part of the Common, and it received the name it bears because of its proximity to the old town granary, which stood where the Park Street Church now stands. The list of the distinguished dead who rest here includes nine governors of the Colony and State ; three of the signers of the Declaration of Independence ; Paul Revere, the patriot ; Peter Faneuil, the donor of the market house and hall that bears his name ; Judge Samuel Sewall, six doctors of divinity, the first mayor of Boston, and many others. Upon the front of one of the tombs, on the side next to Park Street Church, was once a marble slab with the inscription, " No. 16, Tomb of Hancock ;" but nothing now marks the resting-place of the first signer of the Declaration of Independence, and the first Governor of Massachusetts under the Constitution. In another part of the yard is the grave of Samuel Adams, "the father of the Revolution." Near the Tremont House corner are the graves of the victims of the "Boston massacre of 1770." The most conspicuous monument here is one erected in 1 82 7, which marks the graves of the parents of Benjamin Franklin. It contains the epitaph, composed by their illustrious son, "in filial regard to their memory." This is the inscription : They lived lovingly together in wed lock fifty-five years, and without an estate, or any gainful employment, by constant labor and honest industry maintained a large family comfortably, and brought up thirteen children and seven grandchildren respectably. From this instance, reader, be encouraged to diligence in thy calling, and distrust not Providence. He was a pious and prudent man ; She a discreet and virtuous woman. The names of some of the distinguished persons buried here are OLD LANDMARKS. 63 displayed upon the bronze tablets fixed upon the gates of the main entrance to the yard. The high, carved gateway, in the summer time, is picturesque in a mantle of ivy. Entrance to the yard may be obtained upon application to the superintendent. Inquire at health office. No. 12 Beacon Street. The Central Burying Ground, on the Boylston Street side of the Common, is the least interesting of the ancient cemeteries of the town. It was laid out in 1756, but the oldest stone, with the excep- tion of one which was removed from some other ground, is dated 1 761. Stuart, the portrait-painter, was buried here, and Monsieur Julien, the inventor of the famous soup that bears his name. Julien's public house was for some years on the corner of Milk and Congress streets. He died in 1S05, but his soup is still flourishing. It is sup" posed that several of the British soldiers who died from wounds received at Bunker Hill, or from disease in the barracks during the Siege, were buried here; but there is nothing to prove this, and the statement is questioned. Drake says that they were buried in a common trench, and that many of the remains were exhumed when changes in the northwest corner of the yard w^ere made. This bury- ing ground formerly extended to Boylston Street, and it was con- tracted to its present dimensions when the Boylston Street mall was laid out in 1839. V. THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSE- MENTS. Boston is known to the theatrical world as one of the best show towns in the country. This is the more remarkable, as it was many years after the play-house was flourishing in other cities before the Puritan City consented to its establishment in her midst. In 1750 an act w^as passed " to prevent stage plays and other theatrical enter- tainments," imposing heavy fines on the owner of the premises in which such entertainments should be given in defiance of the law, and upon the spectators and actors as well. Several unsuccessful attempts were made to secure the repeal of this act, during the years succeeding, before it finally disappeared from the statute books. During the past few years, theaters have multiplied with marvel- ous rapidity. Twenty years ago, the Boston, the Globe, the Museum, the Howard, and a few cheap variety houses, were the only theaters in the city. To this list have since been added the Tremont, the Columbia, the Park, the Bowdoin Square, the Castle Square, and Keith's. Boston now has about fifteen theaters, properly so called, besides several places where similar entertainments are given. Alphabetical List of Theaters. Bijou Theater, 543 Washington Street. Light attractions. The Boston Museum, at 28 Tremont Street, between Court and School streets, is the oldest theater in the city. Its history dates back to 1S41, and the present substantial granite structure has been occupied since 1846. The interior arrangements of the theater have been several times reconstructed and improvements made, and it is one of the best equipped play-houses of the day. It is noted for its production of new plays from foreign authors for the first time on the American stage, as well as for its magnificent revivals of the (64) THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 66 standard English comedies. The Museum maintained the stock system until 1893, and many famous actors and actresses have been, at different times, connected with its company. It has had uninterrupted success for over half a century, a record that can not be paralleled by the history of any other place of amusement in the United States. It has a seating capacity of 1,500. Prices range from $1 to 35 cents, and some of the best seats in the house can be had for 50 cents. Boston Theater, 539 Washington, between West and Avery streets. This theater was opened in 1854, and it was, for many years, the largest and most magnificent play-house in America. The exterior of the building is unpretentious, and almost buried from sight behind the adjacent buildings ; but within it is, in every respect, substantial and imposing. The lobbies are spacious, the staircases broad, and every convenience for the comfort of the audience is sup- plied. The auditorium is 90 feet in diameter, and reaches a height of 54 feet. The stage is 85 feet deep, and 66 feet high to the fly-floor. The curtain opening is 48x41 feet. The house seats 3,000 persons. There is a wide front entrance on Washington Street, and a rear one on Mason Street, and the means of egress are so ample that 1,000 persons can be dismissed in a minute. The prices range from $1.50 to 50 cents. Bowdoin Square Theater. — This theater is located in Bowdoin Square, and was opened to the public in February, 1892. It has a broad, handsome lobby and auditorium decorated in old ivory and gold. The stage is large, and the proscenium opening is 36 feet wide by 32 feet high. It will seat 1,500 people, and the prices range from $1.50 to 25 cents. The Castle Square Theater, opened in November, 1894, occupies the fortress-like building at 421 Tremont Street. This theater is ab- solutely fireproof, and, in comfort and beauty, it has no superior. Fronting on the square formed by the junction of Tremont, Ferdi- nand, and Chandler streets, with electric cars to all parts of the city and suburbs passing its door, it is one of the most accessible places of amusement in Boston. The stage combines every improve- ment at present known to the theatrical world. The space is ample, providing for 40 feet proscenium opening, 50 feet to back wall, 70 feet between walls, and 85 feet high, and, in addition, broad en- trances on each side of the stage lead to the streets adjoining. A 66 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. cavalcade of horses can enter at one side, make the circuit of the stage, and go out without that jostUng which has spoiled so many stage pictures. The theater cost $1,500,000. It seats 1,700 people. Prices are popular, and a good seat can be had for 50 cents. The Columbia Theater occupies an entire block on Washington Street, and comprises the numbers from 978 to 986, inclusive. In de- sign it follows the Moorish style, and its towers rise above the sur- rounding buildings. The interior finish and the furnishings are in harmony with the exterior architecture. The line of sight through- out the house is perfect, so that it matters not whether the spectator occupies the front row of the orchestra or a corner in the upper bal- cony, a complete view of the stage is had in either place. The Co- I.imbia will seat 1,600, and the prices range from I11.50 to 25 cents. Dudley Street Opera House, 113 Dudley Street. Devoted to private entertainments and other special uses. Grand Museum. — This is located on the corner of Washington and Dover streets. It is a variety theater with continuous perform- ance from I to 10.30 p. M. Popular prices, 10 and 20 cents. The Grand Opera House is at 11 76 Washington Street, on the corner of Ashland Place. This is the chief South End theater, and performances are given by a stock company and by combinations. Prices range from %\ to 25 cents. The Hollis Street Theater occupies the site of the old Hollis Street Church, at No. 10 Hollis Street. It was reconstructed from the church, and was opened November 9, 1885. It is one of the most thoroughly built edifices of its kind in the city, and it is especially well arranged in the particulars of safety from fire and means of quick and easy egress. It has a large auditorium, beautifully decorated and well lighted. The stage is spacious, and the pieces produced here are well mounted. The auditorium has a seating capacity of i ,600. The prices range from $1.50 to 25 cents. The Howard Athenaeum, 34 Howard Street, near Scollay Square, was first opened as a theater on the evening of October 13, 1845. During the following winter the theater was burned, but it was immediately rebuilt. In its early days it was the representative theater of the city. Since 1868 it has been a variety theater. It seats 1,500. Prices range from 25 to 75 cents. There is a continuous performance from i to 10 p. m. Huntington Hall is in the Rogers Building of the Institute of THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 67 Technology. It is where the Lowell Institute lectures are given and is the place of meeting of the Society of Arts. Horticultural Hall, an ornamental building of white granite, which stands on Tremont Street, between Bromfield and Bosworth streets, is the headquarters of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, one of the oldest institutions of its kind in the country, dating from 1829. The exterior of the building is massive and elegant in proportion. The granite statues of Ceres, surmounting the central division of the fa§ade, of Flora on the north buttress of the second story, and of Pomona on the south buttress, were executed by Martin Milmore. On the second and third floors, respectively, are the halls of the society, in which its exhibitions are given. These halls are also often let for various classes of entertainments and for fashionable balls. The Hub Amusement Company, 189 Hanover Street, maintain a museum of curiosities and a continuous-performance variety show. Lorimer Hall. — An auditorium in Tremont Temple. Keith's New Theater, 547 Washington Street, is the prettiest theater in Boston, and one of the prettiest in this country. It is a variety theater, with a continuous performance from 10.30 a. m. to 10.30 p. M. Even people who do not care for variety shows enjoy going to Keith's for the delight and exhilaration afforded by the gayest and most brilliant example of the rococo style in the city. "The lobby of this theater," says a recent writer, " is worthy of a French palace in the Louis XV period." Admission from 25 cents to $1.50. The Lyceum Theater is at 665 Washington Street, just south of Boylston. This is another variety theater, with continuous perform- ance from I to 10.30 p. M. Popular prices from 10 to 50 cents. Music Hall. — The main entrance to this hall is from Winter Street. This is a plain brick building, without architectural pretensions. It was built by private enterprise and opened in 1852. It is 130 feet long, 78 feet wide, and 65 feet high. Among the decorations are a fine statue of Apollo, various casts presented by Charlotte Cushman, and a magnificent statue of Beethoven, by Crawford, which stands on the platform. The last mentioned was presented by Charles C. Perkins. The acoustic properties of the hall are perfect, but the old Music Hall is a dreary, uncomfortable place, w^hich has lost its hand- some feature, the "big organ," and never can be made to look festive again. Here are given the grand oratorio performances of the Handel and Haydn Society, the Symphony concerts of the Harvard Musical Association, the concerts of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, 68 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. the occasional concerts of the Apollo, Boylston, and othernoted clubs. During the early summer season the popular promenade concerts are nightly given by a picked orchestra. These are conducted some- what after the Continental fashion, with the accompaniments of beer, tobacco, Strauss waltzes, occasional groups of Harvard boys, and the foliage of prim little spruce trees. They are called " Pops," Mechanics' Hall is in the magnificent building of the Massachu- setts Charitable Mechanic Association, on Huntington Avenue, corner of West Newton Street. It was built especially for the public exhi- bitions (held about once in three years) of American manufactures and mechanic arts. [See Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association in Chapter VHL] It contains sittings for 8,000 people, and is frequently let for grand opera and other large entertainments. It has all the conveniences for large gatherings and a fine organ. Museum (Austin & Stone's). — This is a dime museum and variety theater, located at 4 Tremont Row. Continuous performance. Palace Theater, 109 Court Street. This is another of the low- priced variety theaters, giving a continuous performance. Park Theater. — This is a small theater, located at 117 Wash- ington Street. It was constructed from the old Beethoven Hall and dates from 1879. It is a high-class combination house, and the names of many great actors and actresses are associated with its stage. Though the house is small, the space is so thoroughly utilized that seats are provided for over 1,100 persons. Parker Hall. — An auditorium in Tremont Temple, where the Twentieth Century Club's and other lectures are heard and Sunday services are held. Pilgrim Hall, 14 Beacon St. — Religious meetings and conventions. Steinert Hall. — An auditorium in Boylston Street, near Park Square, devoted mainly to music, but also used for lectures, etc. Tremont Theater. — This is located at 176 Tremont Street. It was built for Henry E. Abbey and John B. Schoeffel. The audi- torium is 75 feet high, of the same wndth, and 80 feet deep. It is fashioned on the plan of a mammoth shell. On the main floor there are no flat surfaces of any length. By this arrangement the hearing, as well as the sight, gains. The ten oddly-fashioned private boxes on either side of -the proscenium give a novel effect to the interior. The decoration of the main ceiling is modernized Renaissance, treated in Gobelin-tapestry effect, and the coloring n TREMONT TEMPLE. Tremont Street near School Street Hotel Louis H. Smith, Proprietor Tafav e tte Broad and Chestnut Streets, PHILADELPHIA. Three minutes' walk from the railway stations LONG-DISTANCE TELEPHONE NO. 1-23-02. THE location of HOTEL La- fayette is unquestiona- bly the dest in Philadelphia. It successfully rivals the other leading hotels of the city in its closer proximity to the great railroad stations, the famous shopping emporiums and bus- iness houses, the fashionable theaters, the public buildings, courts, colleges, schools, and libraries; and, while occupying a commanding position on the promenade side of Broad Street, one of the world's famous boule- vards, it is absolutelv central for all purposes, whether of business or amusement. ■" Popularity with Tourists t^ :;^:^l^'SVl^S^. Tabled' Hole Breakfasts, served in splendid style, at rates varying from 25 cents to $1.00 according to the demands of one's appetite. Then there is the incompar- able Table d" Hole Liincheon (a regular course dinner, in fact) at 50 cents, served from 12 to 3; and the famous Dinner Francais, from 6 until 8, at $1.00, fit for a banqueting function. ?iX^elpbia HOTEL LAFAYETTE- THE NEIGHBORHOOD. PURE ARTESIAN WELL WATER JfpTrj^^;;'l,et. THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 69 of the walls is in harmonizing shades. The stage is 73 by 45 feet, with a height of 69 feet to the rigging-loft. The house has 2,000 seats. The main entrance is exceptionally fine, and forms a broad vestibule, lobby, and foyer. Prices range from $1.50 to 50 cents. The Turnhalle, at 29 Middlesex Street, is the headquarters of the Turners. It has a pretty little theater, in which German plays are occasionally given. Tremont Temple, 82 Tremont Street, is a fine new building erected on the site of the old Temple, which was destroyed by fire in the year 1893. Ic is intended to be occupied on Sundays as a place of worship, and occasionally on the evenings of other days for concerts, lectures, etc., in Lorimer and Parker halls. Museums and Collections. Boston Athenaeum, 10 Beacon Street. There is a collection of valuable paintings and statuary in the grand vestibule and staircase of the Athenaeum Building, which can be seen by visitors on any week-day without charge. The library is a private one, and can be visited only upon the introduction of a member. Boston Museum, 28 Tremont Street, between School and Court streets. This is the collection of statuary, paintings, coins, etc., which gave its name to the theater. Admission, 35 cents. Barnum Museum —Tuft's College, College Hill, Medford. This fine natural history collection was the gift of the late P. T. Barnum, the famous amusement manager, and is destined to become one of the most interesting museums in the United States, additions being frequently made to it. Among the unique features of the collection is the stuffed skin of the famous elephant, "Jumbo," and many other rare and curious specimens. Bunker Hill Museum. — At the base of Bunker Hill Monument, Charlestown District, there is kept a collection of interesting Colonial and Revolutionary relics. Botanical Garden, Cambridge. This is one of the largest and finest collections of plants and flowers in the country and is free to the public daily. Take an "Arlington" car to Linnean Street, via Harvard Square. It was here that Prof. Asa Gray lived and worked. The Boston Natural History Museum is in the building of the Natural History Society, corner of Boylston and Berkeley streets, and is maintained by this society. The collection of preserved mammals, birds, fishes, shells, minerals, and other specimens here 70 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. exhibited is one of the most valuable and interesting in the country, and the society's library and lecture-courses are among the foremost educational influences for science in Boston. It is free to the public from 9 A. M. to 5 p. m. on Wednesdays and Saturdays. On other days it is open from g a. m. to 5 p. m., and an admission fee of 25 cents is charged. Faneuil Hall Collection of Historical Paintings. — Merchants' Row and Faneuil Hall Square. The thousands who visit this shrine of American patriotism will find an interesting collection of historical paintings and portraits. It is open to visitors every day (except Sun- day) from 9 A. M. to 4 p. M. [See " Fanueil Hall," in Chapter IV.] Historic Genealogical Collection, 18 Somerset Street. At the rooms of the New England Historic Genealogical Society may be seen a large and valuable collection of old engravings, prints, and books, possessing great interest for historians, genealogists, antiqua- rians, and all who are interested in the genealogies of New England. The rooms are open to the public, without charge, every week-day from 9 A. M. to 5 p. M. except Saturdays, when the hours are from 9 A. M. to I p. M. Krino Grotto, Museum, and Gardens, Wellesley. William Emer- son Baker, a few years since, converted his noted Ridge Hill Farms into one of the most unique pleasure-grounds. There are rare and beautiful plants, a zoological collection, aquarium, underground gar- dens and ferneries, grottoes, and various other novel features. A nominal admission fee is charged. Massachusetts Historical Museum, Bo^dston Street and Fenway. The Massachusetts Historical Society has here a rare collection of curiosities. Among them are the swords of Sir William Pepperell, Miles Standish, Colonel Prescott, and others; a phial of the tea washed ashore after its having been thrown into the harbor at the " Boston tea party"; an oak chair brought over in " The Mayflower " ; the diary of Judge Samuel Sewall ; King Philip's samp-bowl; portraits of Governors Winthrop, Endicott, and Winslow, and many other objects of interest. Open from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Admission free. Museum (Agassiz) of Comparative Zoology, Oxford Street, Cam- bridge. This great museum, which has no equal in America, was founded under the direction of Louis Agassiz, one of the foremost naturalists of the world, who was associated with its direction until his death. The exhibition rooms comprise the synoptic rooms, the rooms containing the collections of mammals, birds, reptiles, THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 71 fishes, moUusks, Crustacea, insects, radiates, sponges, protozoa, faunal collections of North and South America, the Indo-Asiatic, the African, and other realms. Here, also, is a collection of glass flowers, a most wonderful display of imitations of flowers, made by Leopold and Rudolph Blaschka of Germany, to whom alone the process of making and coloring is known. The museum belongs to Harvard University. Open to visitors, every week-day throughout the year, from 9 to 5. Admission free. The Old South Museum. — In the Old South Church, corner ot Washington and Milk streets, is quite a valuable collection of Revo- lutionary and historical relics. The museum is open on week-days from 9 A. M. to 6 p. m. Admission, 25 cents. [See Old South Meet- ing-House, in Chapter IV.] Old State House Collection, Washington, corner of State Street. The upper portion of the Old State House is now utilized for exhibi- tion rooms of relics of historical interest, under the control of the Bostonian Society. Paintings, portraits, antiquities, etc. , form a very interesting collection which every visitor should see. Open to the public every day, except Sunday, from 9.30 a. m. to 4.30 p. m. Ad- mission free. Peabody Museum of American Archaeology and Ethnology, Cambridge. This was founded by George Peabody, who gave, in all, $150,000; of this sum, $60,000 were reserved for a building, which was finished in 1S77. Its purpose is the preservation and display of everything relating to the aboriginal, prehistoric, human life of this continent, and it exhibits a great variety of implements, ornaments, and utensils of stone, clay, bone, shell, and metal, models of abo- riginal houses, etc. One feature is Dr. C. C. Abbott's famous series of paleolithic relics from the Trenton, N. J., gravel-beds ; another is models of cliff-dweller houses and of the ruined structures of Central America. The building adjoins the Agassiz Museum. In July, 1S91, the government of Honduras gave to the museum, by a special edict, the charge of the antiquities of that country for ten years, with the privilege of bringing to the museum one-half of the collection obtained by explorations of the ancient cities and Ipurial places within the borders of the country. The Serpent Mound Park, in Adams County, Ohio, containing the great Serpent Mound, is the property of the Peabody Museum. Open to the public every A,Yeek-day from 9 to 5 o'clock. Admission free. 72 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. The Warren Museum of Natural History is at 82 Chestnut Street. This is a private museum, formed, principally, from col- lections made by Dr. J. C. Warren, the noted surgeon. Among the curious objects on exhibition are the skeleton of the mastodon (the only perfect skeleton of the kind anywhere), and many other skele- tons ; casts from various objects in the British Museum, mummies, casts of eggs of mammoth birds, and many other objects of great interest. The collection is preserved in a fireproof building erected for the purpose. Open only to invited guests. Music and Musical Societies. The atmosphere of Boston is full of music, and it is the most assid- uously cultivated of all the arts. The regular weekly concerts of the Symphony Orchestra, with the still more popular "rehearsals," draw enthusiastic audiences from early in the autumn until late in the spring. The opera seasons are brief and more or less uncertain; but Boston makes the most of what she can get and hopes for better times. A recent writer says that if " a stranger wished to get a glimpse of a typical old-time Bostonese crowd he could do no better than to attend a Christmas oratorio by the Handel and Haydn Society in the Music Hall, and, without flippancy, it may be said that he would hear heavenly music sung as well as it is likely to be sung here below. An eminent musical critic has made the remark that if there were three of him he might make himself 'go around' so as to cover the concerts that are given in the season, and this conveys but a hint of the wonderful activity in the musical life of the community." The following is a list of the principal musical societies of the city: Alphabetical List of Musical Societies. The Apollo Club was formed in 1S71, by a few leading singers in church choirs in the city, for the performance of part-songs and cho- ruses for male voices. The number of active members varies from sixty to eighty. The number of associate members is limited to 500. The associate members, for an annual assessment, receive tickets to all the concerts given by the club. Its membership has included the best vocalists of Boston among the active members, and the success of the club nas been such that similar clubs have been formed in many other cities, some of them taking the same name. No public concerts are given, and no tickets to its performances are sold. It has convenient club-rooms and a hall for its weekly rehearsals. THEATERS AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 73 The Boylston Club is a private musical society, which was organ- ized in 1S72, for the study of music for male voices only. In 1876 the club was enlarged by the formation of an auxiliary chorus for ladies. It gives cantatas, masses, psalms, and four-part songs of the great composers, and leaves oratorios to the Handel and Haydn Society. The active membership now numbers nearly 200. The rehearsals are given in the Mechanics' Hall, in the building of the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics' Association, and its concerts in Music Hall. Admission is by tickets, obtainable only from members of the club. The Boston Symphony Orchestra is a permanent organization, established through the liberality of Mr. Henry Lee Higginson. During the season it gives weekly concerts in Music Hall. It is doing a great deal toward educating the people in classical music. The Cecilia Society was originally formed in 1874, within the Har- vard Musical Association, for part-singing for mixed voices. Until 1876 the Cecilia took part in Harvard Symphony concerts only; but in that year it was reorganized and established on a new and inde- pendent basis, with 125 active members. Later associate members were added, the limit being fixed at 250, who bear the expenses of the association, receiving tickets to the concerts, of which four are given in each season. Admission to the concerts is secured only by membership or by invitation of members. The Orpheus Musical Society dates from 1853. It is the leading musical association among the Germans of Boston. At first only Germans were admitted to membershijD, then Americans were per- mitted to become associate members, and now, for several years, they have been welcomed to full membership. The Orpheus is a social as well as a musical club, and its rooms are the scene of many a pleasant festival. During each season it gives several concerts. The Harvard Musical Association was organized in 1837, to "pro- mote progress and knowledge of the best music," and it has done much toward fulfilli:::g its mission. It has a valuable library of music, and works of history, theory, and general musical literature, open to members only. The Handel and Haydn Society.— This association, with a single exception, is the oldest musical society in the country — the oldest being the Stoughton Musical Society, formed in 1786. The Handel and Haydn was established in 1S15, originating in a meeting to which were invited all who were interested in *' the subject of culti- 74 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. vating and improving a correct taste in the performance of sacred music." Its first oratorio was given in King's Chapel, on Christmas Eve of 1S15, with a chorus of 100 voices, only ten of them being female voices. Its orchestra then consisted of less than a dozen per- foi'mers and an organ accompaniment. From that time to the present the society has kept up its efforts to cultivate a popular taste for the best music. It has a membership of about 500. Its concerts are given in the Music Hall. Athletics. There are several private gymnasiums in Boston, two of the best of which are the Allen Gyuinasiuni for Women and C/i/ldren, and the Posse Gyuinasiuni, for both men and women. The former was founded in 1S78 by Miss Mary E. Allen. It consists of a school for body training (six years), and a college of gymnastics for the educa- tion of teachers. The school, 42 Botolph Street, is provided with bowling alleys, and tennis courts, and with Turkish baths. The Posse Gymnasium, at 23 Irvington Street, was established in iSgo, and in- cludes a normal school for gymnastic training. It is fitted with Swedish and other apparatus. Fencing is among the branches taught. The Young Men" s CJwistian Association, at 458 Boylston Street; the Young Men's Christian Union, 48 Boylston Street, and the Young IVonien's Christian Association, ^o Berkeley Street, all have large and finely equipped gymnasiums. The Boston Athletic Association is one of the largest organiza- tions of its class in the country. It occupies a fine club-house on Exeter Street, corner of Blagden, which is one of the best equipped of its kind in the country. It has tennis, racquet, and hand-ball courts, fencing and boxing rooms, billiard-rooms, bowling alleys, Turkish bath, and swimming tank, and a great gymnasium provided with the most approved apparatus. There are also all the regular features of a modern club, including a large restaurant and supper- rooms. The club was organized in 1S88, and has over 2,000 members. Field Sports. Boston is an enthusiastic patron of field sports which are designed as games for pleasure rather than exercise in strength and skill. THE A TER S A ND THER A M U SEMEN TS. 75 Baseball is played in Boston every day during the season, and many clubs are devoted to this sport. The Boston Baseball Grounds are at Columbus Avenue and Walpole Street. The day and hour of all games are advertised in the daily newspapers. Other Clubs. — There are numberless Fencing, Cricket, Bicycle, Racquet, Tennis, Yachting, Rowing, and kindred clubs, many hav- ing fine club-houses, and information concerning them is easily obtained. The Riding Clnb is the latest and most fashionable addition. Lectures in Boston are frequent, and the advertisements in the daily papers, especially The Transcript, The Globe, and The Herald, should be scrutinized for information by any one interested. Chicker- ing and Huntington halls, and the halls of the Y. M. C. A., the Y. M. C. U., and the Y. W. C. A., are the usual places for their delivery. The Lowell Institute Lectures, which are a permanent feature of educational work, are intended to promote the moral, intellectual, and physical instruction and education of the inhabitants. Tickets may be obtained as advertised in the new^spapers. Technical lectures on mechanics are given every year at the Wells Memorial Institute, 987 Washington Street. The details of the courses are announced in October. The Y. M. C. A. , the Y. M. C. U. , the Y. W. C. A. , and the Woman's Educational and Industrial Union, give courses of lectures at stated times during the year. VI. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. Public Schools. In 1635, less than five years after the settlement of Boston, a free school was opened for " the teaching and nourishing of chil- dren," and thus Boston is entitled to the honor of laying the foundation of the free-school system of America. Boston may well point with pride to her public schools, which, according to recent statistics, comprise 603 general and special schools, with a registration of 72,104, an average daily attendance of 56,364, and nearly 1,500 teachers. Among the special schools are the Horace Mann School for Deaf Mutes, and a number of evening schools for the teaching of elementary and classical branches and drawing. The Boys' Latin and English High School wnll interest visitors more than any of the other public schools, because of its tradi- tions and the many eminent men who have been among its pupils and graduates. It occupies the block bounded by Dart- mouth, Montgomery, and Clarendon streets and Warren Avenue. The entrance to the Latin School is on the Warren Avenue front, and that to the English High School on the Montgomery Street side. The structure is of brick, with sandstone trimmings. Most of the exterior ornamentation consists of terra-cotta heads in the gables of the dormer windows, and terra-cotta frieze courses, the work of S. H. Bartlett, the sculptor. Both the main vestibules are decorated with statuary. On the Latin School side is the marble monument, by Richard S. Greenough, dedicated to those graduates of the school w^ho took part in the Civil War. On the EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 77 English High vSchool side is a marble group, by Benzoni, of the ' Flight from Pompeii," the gift of Henry P. Kidder, who was a graduate of the school. William P. Clough was the architect of the building, which was dedicated February 22, 1881. The Latin School is the oldest school in the country, antedating Harvard by nearly two years. Its first school-house stood on ground now covered, in part, by King's Chapel, and gave School Street its name. Among the honored names enrolled as pupils at different periods in its history, we find those of Benjamin Franklin, John Hancock, Samuel Adams, Robert Treat Paine, William Hooper, Charles Sumner, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Rt. Rev. John B. Fitzpatrick, Revs. Cotton Mather, Henry W^ard Beecher, Edward Everett Hale, and Bishop Phillips Brooks. The English High School was opened in May, 1821, to meet a want which was ex- pressed in the report of a committee appointed to consider the feasibility of establishing an English classical school. " The mode of education now adopted," ran the report, "and the branches of knowledge that are taught at our English grammar schools, are not sufficiently extensive, nor otherwise calculated to bring the powers of the mind into operation, nor to qualifying a youth to fill, usefully and respectably, many of those stations, both public and private, in which he may be placed. A parent who wishes to give a child an education that shall fit him for active life, and shall serve as a foundation for eminence in his profession, whether mercantile or mechanical, is under the necessity of giving him a different education from any which our public schools can now furnish. Hence, many children are separated from their parents and sent to private academies in this vicinity to acquire that instruction which can not be obtained at the public seminaries." The school more than fulfilled the hopes of its projectors, and is to-day one of the " model " schools of the United States. The Girls' Latin and High School, formerly in its own building at West Newton and Pembroke streets, now occupies what was formerly the Chauncy Hall School, on Boylston Street. The Girls' High School was established in 1855, in connection with the Normal School. In 1872 the two were separated. The Girls' Latin School was estab- lished in 1878, to provide a training school for girls similar to that given the boys at the old Latin School. The building is well ventilated and roomy, and every facility is afforded for thorough work in the different 78 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. departments. A large collection of casts of sculpture and statuary, the gifts of admiring friends, is among the treasures of the school, and is of especial service to this institution, a large proportion of whose pupils devote themselves to educational or professional work. Among the Grammar Schools which are especially worthy of notice are the Dwight, the Ei'erctt, and the Prince. The last named was the first school-house in New England arranged on the German and Austrian plan. By this plan the rooms on each floor are placed on one side of a long corridor, instead of around a common hall in the middle. Among the advantages claimed for this method of construction are better ventilation, better light, and a more direct connection between the corridors and street entrances. The Horace Mann School for Deaf Mutes is on the east side of Newbury Street, next to the South Congregational Church, which stands at the corner of Exeter Street. It is in an attractive building of face-brick and block free-stone fagade, with a high-arched entrance- way. The pupils are here taught to communicate by articulation rather than by signs. They are also trained in Sloyd carving, in drawing and penmanship, and other useful arts. The Boston Normal School is in the third story of the Rice School Building, on Dartmouth Street. It was established in the city of Boston in 1852, by the city council, on the recommendation of the school committee. It is interesting to note the ground on which this action was based. In the language of a member of the school com- mittee : " The friends for further opportunities for the graduates of our girls' grammar schools," fearing to revive an old controversy, hesitated to move for a high school ; and, therefore, in the faith that they should find no opposition to the preparation of female teachers, established a normal school. "It was found, however, that girls tresh from the grammar schools were not fit candidates for normal training." So, in 1854, the school committee, with the view of adapting the school to the double purpose of giving its pupils high school and normal instruction, caused " the introduction of a few additional branches of study, and a slight alteration in the arrangement of the course," and called it the Girls' High and Normal School. But the normal features were soon quite overshadowed by the high school work. To remed}^ this defect, a training department was organized in 1864, and located in Somerset Street; but in 1870 this department EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 79 was transferred to the then new building, on West Newton Street, occupied by the Girls' High and Normal School, The school was continued under the double name of Girls' High and Normal School till 1S72. At this time the school committee, finding that the normal element had again been crowded out by the high school work, and that the school had almost lost its distinctively professional character, " separated the two courses, and returned the normal school to its original condition, as a separate school. Since then its work has been " giving professional instruction to young women who intend to become teachers in the public schools of Boston. " Boston University. — This institution, for the liberal education of both sexes, was incorporated in 1869 by Lee Claflin, Isaac Rich, and Jacob Sleeper. Its headquarters are in Jacob Sleeper Hall, on Som- erset Street, near Beacon. It embraces three colleges, three profes- sional schools, and a post-graduate department of universal science. In Jacob Sleeper Hall are the College' of Liberal Arts and the School of All Sciences; near at hand, in Ashburton Place, is the Law School Building; at 72 Mount Vernon Street is the Theological School (Methodist), and the School of Medicine, connected with the Massa- chusetts Homoeopathic Hospital, is at the south end. The College of Music was, in 1891, adopted by the New England Conservatory of Music, and constitutes the graduate department of that institution. The College of Agriculture was established in 1875 by an agreement with the Massachusetts Agricultural College at Amherst. The School of Law was the first in this country to present a three-years' course of study. The School of Medicine was also the first to estab- lish a four-years' course of instruction, and which, at the end of three- year courses, confers the degree of Bachelor of Medicine or Bachelor of Surgery. Most of the faculty of the School of Medicine are homoeo- pathic in theory, but its statutes provide for the cooperation of any incorported State medical society in the United States in the testing and graduation of students. The School of All Sciences w^as organ- ized in 1874, and it is open to graduates only. It is designed, first, for the benefit of bachelors of arts, philosophy, or science, of whatso- ever college, who may desire to receive post-graduate instruction; and, secondly, to meet the wants of graduates in law, theology, medi- cine, or other professional courses, who may wish to supplement their studies with higher education. It has about twelve hundred matriculated students, nearly one-third of whom are women. 80 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Boston College, on Harrison Avenue, adjoining the Church of the Immaculate Conception, was founded, in i860, by the Fathers of the Society of Jesus, and it is conducted by that organization. It has power to confer all degrees usually conferred by colleges, except medical. It presents a long and thorough course of instruction, in which classical studies occupy a prominent place. It enrolls about 400 students, and has a corps of nineteen or twenty professors. The college buildings are plain brick structures, covering quite a large area. Chauncy Hall School, now quartered in the Young Men's Chris- tian Association Building, is the oldest private school in Boston, and was founded in 1S28. It was first established in Chauncy Street, from which circumstance it gained its name. It is for both sexes, and carries the pupil from the kindergarten, through all the departments, to the college preparatory. It was the first school in Boston to adopt the military drill. Its former building, on Boylston Street, near Dartmouth, is now occupied by the Girls' Latin School, for which it is well adapted by its careful arrangement for sanitary conditions and the convenience of teachers and pupils. Harvard University. — On October 28, 1636, the General Court of Massachusetts Bay voted "to give /'400 towards a schoole or col- ledge." This sum represented an amount equal to the whole years' tax of the entire colony. In 1637 the college was ordered established at Newton, and the name was changed to Cambridge. In this same year Nathaniel Eaton was appointed master of the school, and under his superintendence a small wooden house was built near the site of the present Wadsworth House. It had about an acre of land aroimd it and some thirty apple trees. Eaton proved to be a harsh and penurious manager, and the scholars rebelled at the bad food. As a result, Eaton was discharged. In 1638, the institution received the liberal bequest of about ;^78o, and also 260 books, from the Rev. John Harvard, late of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, England, who died at Charlestown in that year. The General Court, in memory of the noble benefactor, gave the college his name. The college was thus placed on a secure financial foundation, which has been strengthened and maintained by good management and the gener- osity of the alumni and other friends. Though connected with Colonial and State governments, the university has been from the first a private rather than a public institution, supported, in the main, by the fees paid by its students and the income from gifts. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 81 Harvard is not only the oldest, but one of the richest, of American colleges. She possesses property worth $12,000,000; her roll of graduates, living and dead, contains nearly 20,000 names ; and, in round numbers, her 3,000 students are taught by 300 professors and mstructors. Her list of eminent sons comprises the names of John Adams, John Quincy Adams, W. E, Channing, Edward Ever- ett, W. H. Prescott, George Bancroft, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Oliver Wendell Holmes, Charles Sumner, John Lothrop Motley, James Russell Lowell, E. E. Hale, and Henry D. Thoreau. In Cambridge, Harvard has the college, the graduate school, the Divinity school, the Lawrence scientific school, and the law school ; in Boston proper are the dental school, the medical school, and the school of veterinary medicine ; and in Jamaica Plain are the Bussey Institution and the Arnold Arboretum, Each of these departments is endowed with its own funds, and independent of all others, except that all are under one management. The scientific departments include the astronomical observatory, laboratories of chemistry, physics, natural history, psychology, and physiology ; museums of comparative zoology, botany, geology, mineralogy, and archaeology ; botanic gardens, and herbaria. The university museum has four acres of floor space, and the collections of the museum of compara- tive zoology alone cost $350,000. The College Yard is entered by a gateway built of granite, brick, sandstone, and iron. It was erected with funds left by Mr. Samuel Johnson of the class of 1855. On its panels are carved the shields of the State, city, and college, an emblem to the donor and the nation, and quotations from the early college history and Colonial records. The Yard contains about twenty-two acres, and nearly all the avail- able space is occupied by the buildings necessary to an institution of such magnitude. Massachusetts Hall is the most ancient structure about the Yard; it was built in 1820. Harvard Hall dates from 1766. Then, there are University Hall, Gore //^•z//, containing the University Library; the Boy Is ton Choiiical Laboratory , Sever Hall, Holden Chapel , Appleton Chapel , Mathews Hall, Grays Hall, Weld Hall, etc., all in the Yard. To the northward the university has encroached on the old play- grounds, Holmes and Jarvis fields, and is rapidly spreading all over that part of Cambridge, with its vast group of halls, laboratories, museums, gymnasiums, and professional schools, its botanical gardens 82 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. and observatory, forming a small city in themselves. Some of the recently erected dormitories are fine specimens of architecture, and deserve special notice. Among these are Thayer Hall, containing sixty-eight suites of rooms, built in 1S70, at a cost of $115,000, by Nathaniel Thayer, of a wealthy Boston family, in memory of his father, a minister of the same name, and of his brother, John Eliot Thayer; Grays Hall, erected in 1S63, commemorating the generous gifts of the well-known Gray family of Boston ; Matheius Hall, a Gothic brick building, erected in 1S70, containing sixty suites of rooms, and Hastings Hall, one of the finest of the college dormitories, built in iSgo, costing $243,000, the bequest of Walter Hastings. Memorial Hall, architecturally the most imposing of the univer- sity buildings, was erected by the alumni, in 1870-77, as a memorial to the Harvard men who died in the Civil War. The building is of brick and sandstone, 310 feet long and 115 feet wide. The central division is the solemn Memorial Transept, lined with marble tablets, set in black walnut screens, bearing the names of the fallen heroes, and the places and times of their deaths. The transept is 1 1 5 feet long and 58 feet high to the handsome vaulted roof. Over this transept a sturdy tower rises to the height of 200 feet, and forms a conspicuous landmark. The huge Gothic dining-hall, seating 1,000 students, opens from the transept. It is 164 feet long, 60 feet wide, and 80 feet high to its timber roof, with galleries at either end, and at the west end an immense stained-glass window, wnth the arms of the Republic, the State, and the university. The walls are adorned with fine old portraits and busts, the works of Copley, Stuart, Trumbull, Hunt, Harding, Powers, Crawford, Story, Greenough, and other eminent artists. Directly opposite this hall, on the right of the transept, is the entrance to Sanders' Theater, a semi-circular hall, with graded seats, accommodating 1,500 persons. This is where class-day and graduation exercises are held. The story of the found- ing of Harvard College is told in the Latin inscriptions over the stage. The w^all back of the stage is ornamented with the college seal, three books bearing the word " Verilas'' (truth). Josiah Quincy, a statue of whom in marble, by Story, stands near the stage, was the sixteenth president of the college. He was born in Boston in 1772, of a famous family, which gave its name t' John Quincy Adams and to the town of Quincy, and is still rej^reser. ted by the same old-fashioned baptis- mal name. He was for eight years in Congress, for six years mayor EDUCA TIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 83 of Boston — known as the "Great Mayor" — and for sixteen years president of Harvard, and died in 1864, at the age of 93. The statue of John Har^uird, which stands on " The Delta," was designed by Daniel G. French of Concord. It was given to the univer- sity by Samuel J. Bridge. There is no likeness of John Harvard in existence; but this statue, representing a young Puritan scholar, is em- blematic of the courage and manhood of the founders of New England. Libraries. — In addition to the various society libraries, the uni- versity has twenty-nine minor libraries connected with the various departments, containing nearly 100,000 volumes, while the Univer- sity Library has over 350,000 volumes and 300,000 pamphlets. There are but two libraries in America larger than this one, the Public Library of Boston and the Congressional Library. The Fogg Museum is the University's art-museum, housed in a handsome little building opposite Memorial Hall, open to the public, and of considerable interest. The Annex is on the southeast corner of Garden and Mason streets. The main t)uilding is known as Fay House. This is the institution of the " Society for the Collegiate Instruction of Women," established in 1879 by Mr. Arthur Gilman. It has for its object the obtaining for women the best instruction given in Harvard. At the opening of the Annex there were twenty-seven women instructed by Harvard professors, forty of whom offered their services. The stu- , dents come from all parts of the country ; from the Pacific coast and Sandwich Islands. They board in the various Cambridge homes, and recite at Fay House. The entrance examinations are the same as those at Harvard, and the certificates given to the graduates state that the holders have performed the work required by Harvard College for its B. A. degree. The certificates are awarded upon the recommendations of an academic board, composed almost exclusively of Harvard professors. Fay House contains recitation rooms, a reference library, and the botanical laboratory. In other buildings are laboratories of chemistry, physics, and biology. The collections of the college library and museums are open to the students, and opportunities for study in the Botanic Garden and Herbarium and the Astronomical Observatory are afforded. Departments of Harvard Outside of Cambridge. The Bussey Institution is a school of agriculture, horticulture, and veterinary science. Its grounds and buildings are in the 8 84 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Jamaica Plain District of the city, near Forest Hills Station of the Providence division of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad. They occupy a part of the noble estate bequeathed to the university by Benjamin Bussey, who also left funds in trust for the school. The Institute was opened in 1870. The building is a tasteful structure, in the Victoria Gothic architecture, of Rox- bury pudding-stone, 112 feet long and 73 feet wide. (See Arnold Arboretum, Chaj^ter III.) The Harvard Dental School is located on North Grove Street, in a building formerly occupied by the Harvard Medical School, The Harvard Medical School occupies the magnificent building on the southeast corner of Boylston and Exeter streets. This school was established at Cambridge, in the old Holden Chapel, in 17S3. It was removed to Boston in iSio. The present build- ing, completed in 1SS3, is of brick and red sandstone, four stories in height. The features of its broad front, which faces Boylston Street, are the three pavilions, and the sky-line of stone balus- trades, and low gables surrounding the flat roof. The interior is admirably arranged. The spacious class-rooms, lecture-rooms, and laboratories are thoroughly equipped. On the third floor is the Museum of Comparative Anatomy, founded in 1846. The original collection of this museum was given by Dr. John Collins Warren, professor of anatomy and surgery in the school from 181 5 to 1847. The full course at this school is four years, but on the completion of three years' study, and satisfactory examinations, the degree of Doctor of Medicine is conferred. The school numbers about 500 students, and has a corps of seventy-five professors, instructors, and assistants. The standard of the school is one of the highest in the country. The School of Veterinary Medicine is on Village and Lucas streets. Besides the school building, there is a hospital, and at the Bussey Farm there are pastures and buildings pertaining to the school. Other Institutions. The Massachusetts Institute of Technology. — This, the leading technical school in this country, is located on Boylston Street, between Berkeley and Clarendon. It was founded in 1861, and its develop- ment has been broad and rapid. Its prominent feature is th§ EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 85 School of Industrial Science, devoted to the teaching of science as applied to the various engineering professions — civil, mechanical, mining, electrical, chemical, and sanitary engineering — as well as to architecture, chemistry, metallurgy, physics, and geology. Courses of a less technical nature, designed as a preparation for business callings, and in biology, preparatory to the professional study of medicine, are also given; and the Lowell School of Prac- tical Design is maintained by the corporation. The main building of the Institute of Technology, knowai as the Rogers Building, is the oldest and most attractive of the buildings, and contains over fifty rooms, most of them being laboratories or lecture -rooms. This building was named in honor of Prof. William B. Rogers, the first president, and one of the founders of the school. Here are the principal offices of the school. The Walker Buildiitg, next beyond, toward Clarendon Street, erected in 1S84, is devoted, mainly, to the departments of physics, chemistry, and electricity. Other buildings are the Architectural Building and the Engi- neering Building, on Trinity Place; the Workshops, on Garrison Street, with a section devoted to the Low^ell School of Design, and the Gymnasium and Drill Hall on Exeter Street. The Massachusetts College of Pharmacy. — The College of Pharmacy is on the corner of St. Botolph and Garrison streets. It was instituted in 1823 and chartered in 1852. Women are admitted to this institution on the same conditions as men. Graduates receive the degree of Ph. G. The college building was erected in 1866, and is well arranged, with large lecture halls and laboratories, cabinets of botanical and chemical drugs, and a great herbarium. The Shepard Library is a valuable collection of pharmaceutical, chemical, and botanical works, the nucleus of which was the gift of Dr. A. B. Shepard. The college is under the direction of a board of trustees, and it has ten professors and instructors. The New England Conservatory of Music, on Newton Street, facing Franklin Square, was established in 1867 by the late Dr. Eben Tourjee, and incorporated in 1870. The Conservatory embraces five separate schools, with a college of music for advanced students, which is connected with Boston University. The building was acquired by the institution in 18S2. It has a large concert hall, recitation and practice rooms, library and reading-rooms, parlors, museum, and quarters for many of the lady pupils, who board ^6 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. n the establishment. At the rear is Sleeper Hall, erected id [885. The Conservatory is under the control of a board of trustees, )f which Chas. P. Gardiner is president; Frank W. Hale, secretary, ind Geo. W. Chad wick, medical director. The instructors number ibout seventy, while the number of students is over 1,500. The Normal Art School is on the southeast corner of Exeter and Mewbury streets. It is under the direction of the State Board of Education, and was established in 1873, primarily as a training-school "or teachers of industrial drawing in the public schools, but other students in special branches are admitted. In this building are class md lecture rooms for instruction in architectural and mechanical Irawing and modeling in clay, in painting in oil and water-colors, md in other branches. The school is well equipped in every way. Copley Hall, a gallery for exhibitions of paintings is near by. The Perkins Institution and Massachusetts School for the Blind s on East Broadway, South Boston. It is a semi-public institution, >rganized, in 1831, by the late Dr. Samuel G. Howe. Beginning with ix blind children as the nucleus of the school. Doctor Howe continued LS its director until his death, in 1S77. Much of the success of the iChool is ascribed to his devotion to it, and his eminent fitness for the ^^ork. He was succeeded by his son-in-law. Dr. Michael Anagnos, v^ho was for many years his faithful co-worker, and who established he kindergarten in the West Roxbury District (corner of Perkins and 3ay streets). The pupils use, in reading, the system of raised letters nvented by Doctor Howe. The library, containing 1 1 ,000 volumes in aised type, is the largest general library for the blind in the world, ^he asylum also possesses an interesting museum and a complete gym- lasium. The institution is partly self-supporting, such of the pupils .s are able to pay maintaining themselves at a boarding-school. All he pupils are taught some useful trade or profession. Several of the itates pay for a large number of beneficiaries. In the arrangement if the establishment the family system is followed, and the girls iccupy dwelling-houses by themselves, the sexes being separated, t is named the Perkins Institution, in honor of Col. Thomas W, *erkins, a Bostonian in his day distinguished for good deeds, and ne of the most generous benefactors of the institution. The Protestant Episcopal Theological School in Cambridge was ounded, in 1867, on an endowment from Benjamin T. Reed of Boston. EDUCATION'AL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 87 It has eight professors and one instructor, and the number of students averages about forty. The stone buildings form a noble and harmo- nious group, including Lawrence Hall and Winthrop Hall, the dormi- tories, Reed Hall, a cloistered Gothic building, named after the founder, and which contains the library and lecture-rooms; and St. John's Memorial Chapel, built in i86g by Robert Means Mason of Boston, as a memorial of his wife and brother, the Rev. Charles Mason, D. D. The chapel is a beautiful cruciform edifice of Roxbury granite and free-stone. Burnham Hall, behind the chapel, built in 1879 by the late John A. Burnham, contains a dining-room to accom- modate over 100 students. Rev. George Zabriskie Gray, D. D., and Rev. Elisha Mulford, D. D., author of "The Nation" and *' The Republic of God," were connected with this institution before their deaths. The library of Harvard University is open to mem- bers of the school. St. John's Boston Ecclesiastical Seminary occupies a beautiful estate on Lake Street, in the Brighton District. This is a Roman Catholic institution, founded in 1880. It numbers ten professors and instructors and over 100 pupils. Wellesley College is situated in the beautiful village of AVellesley, about fifteen miles from Boston, on Lake Waban. It has the largest and handsomest building in the world devoted exclusively to the higher education of women. The grounds comprise over 300 acres and are very beautiful. Private Schools. — Besides the schools mentioned in the foregoing pages, Boston numbers about 100 private schools, which will compare favorably with those of any city in the country. About 5,000 pupils receive instruction in free denominational schools, which are chiefly Roman Catholic institutions. Libraries. The public and private libraries of Boston are in keeping with her other educational institutions. To her belongs the glory of possess- ing the largest public library for free circulation in the world, and this library is housed in the most magnificent public building in the country. Her many special libraries — law, medical, scientific, mu- sical, and art — are superior to similar collections in other cities; a.nd the library of Harvard University, which has been mentioned 88 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. elsewhere in this chapter, stands at the head of the great college libraries in the United States. The Boston Public Library, on Dartmouth and Boylston streets, facing Copley Square, was first opened to the public with a nucleus of less than 10,000 books. It occupied quarters on Mason Street, and in 1858, moved into a building of its own on Boylston Street, opposite the Common. In February, 1895, it was moved to the new Public Library Building — ' ' Built b}^ the people and dedicated to the advance- ment of learning." By successive annexations to the territory of the city, the libraries of the several cities and towns annexed have become branches of the Public Library, and are carried on as such. It has also received many bequests in money and books. The enumeration of all the books in the library on December i, 1894, was 608,466. The library contains several special collections which add to the reputation of the institution, and make it a Mecca for scholars throughout the country. At present, these special libraries are eleven in number. The Patent Collection numbers nearly 5,000 volumes, and is open to it/definite growth. The Bowditch Mathematical Library, of nearly 6,000 volumes, is enlarged by the yearly income of a fund of $10,000. The Parker Library, of 14,000 volumes, was left by Theodore Parker, with the provision that they should be made as accessible as possible. The Prince Library, of about 3,000 volumes, is the most significant, if not the largest or most valuable, of all public collections of Americana in existence. The Barton Library, of nearly 14,000 volumes, contains many fine specimens of book -work and binding, as well as a remark- able Shakesperian collection. The Thayer Library, of more than 5,000 volumes, is interesting for its portraits and plates of historical and literary importance. The Franklin Library, of 500 volumes, was formed in memory of the great Bostonian, and is aided in part by the income of a gift from Dr. Samuel A. Green, who conceived the idea of making this memorial. The 600 choice volumes from the library of the late John A. Lewis are devoted to early and rare Americana. The Ticknor Library, of 6,000 volumes, is one of the finest collections of Spanish and Portuguese literature outside of Spain. The late George Ticknor left $4,000, the income of which is devoted to keep- ing up the high reputation of this collection. The trustees have recently been notified that they are to receive, in trust, the library left to the town of Quincy more than seventy years ago by John Adams, EDUCATIOMAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 89 second president of the United States. Another recent gift is that of the Hon. Mellen Chamberlain, hbrarian of the PubHc Library from 1878 to i8go, who gives a remarkable collection of autographs and manuscripts. Close upon these last-mentioned additions, another valuable contribution to the library's treasures comes in the shape of a collection of musical works, numbering 7,000 volumes, by Mr. Allen A. Brown. Public Library Building. — The building in which this magnifi- cent library is housed is one of the few public buildings in America which may be said to be worthy of its purpose. It is deserving of note that neither individual beneficence nor State or national aid have contributed to its erection. It has been built, and it will be adorned, by the city of Boston for her citizens, who, from the Back Bay millionaire down to the humblest among them, will be entitled to enjoy its treasures of art and literature. It is not surprising, therefore, to find this Library taking the leading place on the list of the sights of Boston. In the Italian Rennaissance style of archi- tecture, it is quadrangular in shape and surrounds a court. With its platform, it covers, exclusive of the court, an acre and a half of ground. Its walls are of Milford granite, which has a faint pink tinge, and the roof is of brown vSpanish tiles. The chief characteristics of the building are its simplicity and the accenting of the horizontal lines of composition. The front consists of a strongly marked first story supporting an arcaded second story, which is surmounted by a massive and projecting cornice, the whole unbroken for 225 feet. The whole structure rests on a low platform, approached by wide encircling steps, which lifts the library above the level of Copley Square. Above the main entrance, and under the three central windows, are carved medallions bearing the seals of the State, the city, and the library. The three arches of the main portal admit us to a vestibule with Tennessee marble walls and inlaid pavement. The three great doorways open into the entrance hall. The main feature of this hall is the lofty arched ceiling of marble mosaics of white and delicate brown tesserae. The designs are of Rennaissance scrolls surrounding tablets, upon which are wrought the names of prominent Americans who have in some way been identified with Boston. The list contains Garrison, Phillips, Sumner, and Mann ; Gray, Bowditch, Agassiz, and Rumford ; Stuart, Copley, Allston, and Bulfinch ; Motley, Prescott, and Bancroft ; Story, Shaw, Webster 90 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. and Choate ; Eliot and Mather, Channing and Parker ; Longfellow, Hawthorne, Peirce, Adams, Emerson, and Franklin. The floor of this hall is in white and Breccia marbles, inlaid with brass. At the foot of the stairway the design in the inlay is a laurel wreath sur- rounding the names of the benefactors of the library — Bates, Everett, Quincy, Bigelow, Vattemare, Jewett, and Winthrop. Opposite the entrance rises a monumental staircase, the steps of Echaillon marble, and the sides of richly colored Siena marble in large sheets. At the wide landing, guarding the stairs on either side, are the couchant marble lions, by St. Gaudens. These were the gifts of the 2d and 20th Massachusetts Volunteer Infantry, in memory of their comrades who fell in the Civil War. At the landing double oak doors open upon a balcony which overlooks the interior court. From the landing the staircase branches into two stately flights that end upon a columned gallery, which at either end is continued into lobbies. That on the right leads to the waiting-room; that on the left to the room for relics. The gallery also opens directly into Bates Hall, the great general reading-room, which stretches across the whole front of the building, and is lighted by its main range of windows. This noble room, 217 feet in length, 42 feet in breadth, and 50 feet to the crown of its barrel-vaulted ceiling, containing half a million books, speaks eloquently of the multitude of readers the librar) serves. The adjoining room is reserved for young readers. The central court is inclosed by the four wings of the building, and is entered through the Boylston Street portal. It is encircled on three sides by graceful columnar arcades of marble, above which rise walls of yellowish brick, warm and rich in tone. The calm, pure beauty of its shadowy arcades, the nobility of its solid upper walls, and its air of cloistered seclusion, make it one of the most impressive features of the building. Seats will be provided beneath its arcades and under protecting awnings, and during the warm months of the year it will be an ideal place for study. " Its projectors knew," says a recent writer, "that architectural beauty can not be completed without the help of the sister arts; that a worthy house for Boston's books could not be built unless painter and sculptor should give the architect their aid. But they also knew that the building's mission was to spread and encourage knowledge ; they felt that an intimate acquaintance with beauty is one of the most precious and fructifying kinds of knowledge ; and, realizing that EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 91 this, in most of its branches, can not be acquired from books, they determined to reinforce the voice of books with the voice of art itself." Decorations. — It will be long before the work of decorating Bos- ton's library is complete ; but a great beginning has been made. There are vStill to come the immense sculptured groups by St. Gaudens, the bronze doors by French, the colossal stairway decorations by Puvis de Chavannes, and an ornamental fountain, not to mention the large areas of wall and ceiling ultimately to be decorated by the leading painters of America. The decorations by Puvis de Chavannes, representing the Muses greeting the Geniiis of Enl/g/itefunent, now occupy the panels that encircle the wall of the grand staircase, somewhat above the level of the second floor, from whose gallery they are best viewed. The picture is divided into five high arches. In the center of the lower part a panel is interrupted by the frame of a door; but the artist has skillfully adapted his design to these formal conditions. His foreground consists of the turfy summit of a cliff, beyond which the eye perceives the open sea. Interspersed here and there in the greensward are heather and oak plants, while the crest of the cliff is bordered with a transparent curtain of young trees, the light contours of w^hich stand clearly out upon the cerulean mass of the ocean. In the center of the composition a naked youth, representing the Genius of Enlightenment, with extended wings, rests upon clouds, his outstretched hands holding rays of light. To the right and left the yellowish white sky, studded with opaline gleams, dominates the deep blue sea. In the distant horizon, j^rojecting their noble forms upon the pale gold sky, the Nine Muses, chastely draped, rise from both sides of the grassy turf, tuning their lyres and offering palms to the Genius. Some of the Muses take their flight from the soil; others float upon the azure with a graceful unrestraint, like divine butter- flies, their white draperies loosely adjusted. One of these Muses, at the left, is exquisite. Raising gently the long veil that covered her sleeping head, she awakes, and mounts straight in the heavens, as though impelled by an unknown force. The door-frame occupies the center of the turf, and at each side is an allegorical figure, two statues representing Contemj)lation and Study, who mount guard at both sides of the door and form a natural 92 . HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. transition between the ideal landscape and the reality. The first figure is meditative and thoughtful ; the other fixes her regard upon a book that she holds open upon her knees. Edwin A. Abbey's frieze for the delivery-room is only half com- pleted. The subject of these pictorial presentations is" The Quest of the Holy Grail r 1. The first represents the appearance of the Grail to the infant Galahad, who has been left, after the death of his mother, a descendant of Joseph of Arimathea, in a secluded convent to be brought up by the nuns. The holy maid, who holds the babe aloft in her arms, feels the presence of the vision, but she does not see it. The angel bearing the Grail floats upon widespread wings in celestial white. 2. The second picture shows the young Galahad, in his red robe, kneeling in the convent chapel at the close of the all-night vigil which he is required to keep before starting out on his. adventures. Perceval and Bors kneel behind Galahad, fastening; his spurs. They are dressed in chain-armor, with low-pointed helmets. 3. The third painting represents the Round Table of King Arthur. The vast circular hall, blazing with light, is filled with knights, each in his appointed seat, and all holding up the hilts of their swords, as if to swear to some great vow. The king stands, dressed in royal purple and gold, under a rich baldachin, with grotesque Celtic heads carved upon it, and pillars of mosaicked marble, like those in the churches of Salerno and Ravello. One seat alone is vacant, the chair of destiny, in which whoever sits must lose himself. An aged man enters, leading Galahad, whomi he proclaims as the hero who shall achieve the adventures of the Holy Grail. 4. In the fourth painting we see knights, composing the host of the Grail, under the leadership of Galahad, assembled in the cathedral to receive the episcopal benediction before setting out on their wanderings. 5. The fifth and last completed painting in the series repre- 1 sents the castle of Amfortas, the Fisher King of the legend, who has been wounded centuries ago for his failure to keep the law of purity, which is binding on the Guardian of the Holy Grail, ynder an enchantment, he and his court are sustained by o. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 93 shadowy li'fe, while the procession of the Grail passes nightly before their eyes. They can not be released by death until the unstained hero comes into the castle, and, by asking the meaning of the Holy Grail, breaks the spell. Galahad has arrived at the Court of the Wounded King, and is surrounded by its unearthly inhabitants. Amfortas lies in the center upon his couch, which is an ancient Celtic coffin, with a bear's skin thrown over it. His eyes are fixed on the procession of the Grail, which passes before him. Galahad stands absorbed in the wonder of the vision, but fails to ask the question by which alone the spell can be dis- solved, and the quest of the Grail be achieved. John S. Sargent's decorations will depict the " Religions of the World.'" The work now finished is but a fragment in a scheme of decoration which is to occupy all the available space in the large, lofty, and narrow hall, with a barrel-vaulted ceiling, at the top of the building. (See Century Magazine, June, 1896.) The present decorations have for their theme the confusion which fell upon the children of Israel when they turned from the worship of Jehovah to that of the false gods of heathen nations. The composition in the lunette represents the children of Israel beneath the yoke of their oppressors, into whose hands the Lord had delivered them. On the left stands the Egyptian, Pharaoh; on the right the Assyrian king, both monarchs with arms uplifted to strike with scourge and sword. The Israelites, naked in their slavery, bow in submission; their central figure lifts his arms in prayer for deliverance, and behind the yoke a multitude of sup- plicating hands are raised in imploration to the Lord, to whom his repentant people are making burnt-offering upon the altar. He has heard their prayer; flaming seraphim fly before the face of the Lord, and supply a superb decorative motive with the crimson of their wings, which alone symbolize their presence. His face is invisible, but His mighty arms reach down from the cloud and stay the hands of the oj^pressors. Behind the Assyrian king stands a protecting genius, with the body of a man and the head of a vulture, holding in one hand a bow, and in the other two arrows. Beside this figure is the Assyrian lion, with .two ravens attacking a prostrate corpse. The things symbolize the Assyrian cultus. Among the deities attending the Egyptian monarch is one 5vith a lion's head and wings of black and gold. Prostrate victims 94 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON, beneath the feet of both Assyrians and Egyptians represent the other nations that were oppressed by them. The Assyrian ravens are balanced on the Egyptian side by vultures preying upon the dead. In the ceiling are represented the pagan deities, the strange gods whom the children of Israel went after when they turned from Jehovah. Underlying all the figures that populate the ceiling is the gigantic, dark, and shadowy form of the great goddess, Neith, the mother of the universe, the goddess whose temple at Sais, in Lower Egypt, was once the center of wisdom for Greece. The feet of Neith touch the cornice on one side, her uplifted hands that of the other, and her overarching figure constitutes thf; firmament, whose stars are seen through the ring of the zodiac , which forms a collar for the goddess. The third great division of the work is the frieze of the Prophets. This symbolizes the foundation of the religion of Israel upon the structure of the law. JNIoses is the central figure, and, in his priestly robes and symbols, is treated conventionally to typify the authority upon which the faith is based. Moses, with the tablets of the Com- mandments, is modeled in strong relief ; the other Prophets are painted on a plane surface. On the right of Moses stands Daniel ; on the left, Joshua. The other Prophets, in their order from left to right, are Zephaniah, Joel, Obadiah, Hosea, Amos, Nahum, Ezekiel, Jeremiah, Jonah, Isaiah, Habakkuk, Micah, Haggai, ]\Ialachi, and Zachariah. Other Libraries. The Boston Athenaeum Building is on Beacon Street, between Tremont and Park streets, and is a freestone structure in the later Italian style of architecture, which was built over fifty years ago. The Athenaeum originated in a literary club, formed among a set of young men, in 1804, called the Anthology Club, which, for awhile, edited and published a magazine called the Monthly Anthology. In 1S06 they established a reading-room, and a year later obtained an act of incorporation under the present title. For some years the club sus- tained a library, a museum of natural history, and an art gallery. But the founding of other societies devoted to these different objects, led the Athenaeum to transfer to them its various collections, retaiu- ing only its valuable library and a few pictures, busts, and statues for decoration. Here will be found a delightful reading-room, and, while the right to use it is confined to the shareholders and their fam- • ilies, great liberality is shown to scholars and strangers, who are \ EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 95 always welcomed with courtesy. The library contains nearly 200,000 volumes, many valuable and rare. One of its most inter- esting collections is the library of George Washington, purchased in 1848. The Boston Medical Library Association occupies the house at No. ig Boylston Place. Here are reading rooms, a hall for the meet- ings of the leading medical societies of the city, and the library of nearly 20,000 volumes and 12,000 pamphlets. This library receives regularly over 300 periodicals. The Congregational Library to be found in the Congregational House, No. 14 Beacon Street, erected in 1898. This is a beautiful and commodious building forming the headquarters of the Congrega- tional Church in the United States, and including the offices of various benevolent societies, of The Congregationalist , and of the American Board of Foreign Missions. The Library contains over 40,000 books besides 75,000 pamphlets, etc. The General Theological Library, No. 53 Mount Vernon Street, contains 15,000 volumes, generally of a theological or religious char- acter. There is a fine reading room in connection with it. The Library of the Massachusetts Historical Society is housed in the society's new building, erected in i8g8, at the corner of Boylston Street and the Fenway. This library contains nearly 40,000 books, 100,000 pamphlets, and 750 bound volumes of manu- scripts, besides several thousand single manuscripts. Among the treasures of the library is the Dowse collection of Americana, bequeathed to the society by the late Thomas Dowse of Cambridge. Here, also, is to be found the largest collection in the country of books relating to the Civil War. Among the valuable manuscripts are the letters and papers of Timothy Pickering, Gen. William Heath, the Trumbull and Belknap papers, manuscripts relating to the French in Canada, and two volumes of John Winthrop's Journal. The Library of the New England Historic-Genealogical Society contains about 25,000 volumes and 70,000 pamphlets. It is located in the rooms of the society, at 18 Somerset Street, just below Ashburton Place. The library and archives of the society are freely open to the public, and are much utilized by persons hunting up their genealogies. The Natural History Museum Library, in the building of the Boston Natural History Society, Boylston Street, corner of Berkeley contains over 20,000 volumes. 96 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. The State Library of Massachusetts occupies quarters in the State House. It is composed largely of volumes of statutes of the different States, Territories, and the United States; the acts of the British Parliament, and the French Archives Parlimentaires; and it also contains valuable legal documents, law reports, Avorks on politi- cal economy, education, and social science. The number of volumes is over 10,000. The library is open daily for the use of the Governor and other officers of the State, members of the Legislature, and the general public, under certain conditions. All persons may use it for consultation or reference. Its conduct is under the direction of a board of trustees. The Social Law Library is in the court house, on Court Square. It was incorporated in 18 14, and contains 20,000 law books. The library is open, under certain conditions, to members of the bar and other professional men. The 3Iiiseuin of Fine Arts. The Museum of Fine Arts was foimded in 1870, and was opened in the building of the Boston Athenseum. Its substantial, but some- what gaudy, building is at the corner of St. James Avenue and Dart- mouth Street, and faces Copley Square. The first section of this building was opened in 1876, and three years later the facade on Cop- ley Square was finished. In 1S90 the building was increased to nearly double its original size, and extensive improvements made in the older parts, at a cost of over $250,000, contributed by generous citizens. The architecture is the Italian Gothic, and the material brick, with moldings, copings, and trimmings of red and buff terra- cotta, imported from England. The building forms a quadrangle surrounding an inner court, and, eventually, it will cover twice the present area by successive extensions toward the south. Two large reliefs on the fagade represent two allegorical compositions: "The Genus of Art" and "Art and Industry." The main front has a pro- jecting portico in the center, with polished granite columns. The institution has been entirely supported by the generosity of its friends, and by private subscriptions. The only gift it has received from the city or State is the land which it occupies. The nucleus of the collection was formerly the property of the Athenaeum, and consisted of paintings and casts, and a few gifts from citizens. When the museum was opened, the collection of casts was in- EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS, LIBRARIES, ETC. 97 creased by a number purchased with the proceeds of a sale of pictures, bequeathed by Charles Sumner, and by other gifts. At the present time the casts number nearly i ,000. The museum has grown, in about thirty years, to be one of the great museums of the world. In the department of Eastern art, and especially Japanese art, it is very strong. In this department and in the department of prints, it has no rival in this country outside of New York. Six galleries are devoted to the collection of pictures in oil and water colors, containing many productions of the early American and some of the modern European schools. Four galleries and corridors are devoted to the immense collection of casts from the antique. Three cabinets are devoted to exhibitions of engravings. There are galleries of textile arts, of pottery and porcelains, of bronzes, jewelry, coins, and metal work; of wood-carvings, of ivory carv- ings, of furniture, arms and armor, tapestries, glass, etc., and there is a rich collection of Egyptian art. The museum contains the school of drawing and painting, with a faculty of seven instructors, and an extensive library of art books. The administration is vested in a board of trustees, repre- senting Harvard University, the Boston Athenaeum, and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, comprising, also, ex-oflicio the mayor, the superintendent of schools, a trustee of the Lowell Institute, the president of the trustees of the Public Library, and the secretary of the State Board of Education. Recent bequests have provided a fund of $100,000 for the pur- chase of modern paintings. The first investments under these bequests have been a portrait by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Eugene Delacroix's " Lion Hunt." At the same time the department of classical antiquities secured the best collection of Greek vases ever brought to the United States. The museum is open free to the public on Saturdays and Sundays; on other days a fee of 25 cents is charged. Sunday is the great day for the crowd; the poorer people then turn out in vast numbers, and throng all the galleries and cabinets. The behavior of the visitors on these occasions has never been otherwise than admirable. It would be impossible to thoroughly enjoy the collections without the two valuable historical and descriptive catalogues, which may be had at the entrance for 25 cents. VII. CHURCHES AND RELIGIOUS AND BENEVOLENT WORK. Sunday in Boston. — The Puritan Sunday is a matter of history, /hich it is as hard for the present generation to understand as he religious persecution which darkens the earl}^ annals of this air town. We may turn from the old laws, which forbade any rork "except for necessity or charity," to a Sunday edition of ne of the great daily newspapers, and read that one of Boston's •rominent clergymen will hold a special service of morning •rayer for the benefit of those persons who wish to spend the emainder of the day in the enjoyment of out-door life and recre- tion. It is not that Boston has grown to be a wicked city; quite he reverse. It only proves that her intellectual and spiritual evelopment have, like her material growth, been upon broad ,nd humanitarian lines; and that the mental, moral, and physical eeds of individuals are considered together. It is certainly more 'hristlike to send the weary toiler from the shop or factory for a un on the bicycle through the green fields, for a sail on the blue waters of the bay, or for a stroll with wife and children through he beautiful parks, than to confine him in the house from sundown laturday night until IVIoitday morning, with no change except to the ard seats of the meeting-house, and the long, doctrinal sermons f the early fathers. And so, while the day is generally observed, nd the services of the many churches are well attended, healthful ecreation is not only permitted, but provided, by the city govern- lent. The means and principal places of worship will be de- cribed below; in addition to them, irregular services may be found dvertised in the newspapers, where, also, the hours of meeting nd the subject of the next day's sermons are announced for lany of the leading churches. The Museum of Fine Arts and the (98) CHURCHES. 99 Public Library are open during the usual hours. Most, if not all, of the excursion boats which, in summer, ply between Boston and the seaside resorts, make their ordinary trips, and these places are more crowded upon this than upon any other day of the week. The parks offer unrivaled facilities for quiet enjoyment, and are easily reached by electric cars from different parts of the city. All places for the sale of liquor are closed by law during the twenty-four hours from midnight of Saturday to midnight of Sun- day, and business generally is suspended. Protestant Churches. Every denomination of Christians is represented in Boston. There are 'nearly 300 places of worship in the city, and in all of them strangers are welcome, and are cheerfully provided with seats, so long as there are any vacant. Services in the Protestant churches begin in the morning, generally at 10.30 ; and in the evening at 7.30. The Roman Catholic churches celebrate high mass and vespers at about the same hour. Nothing is implied in the order in which the denominations are mentioned herein, except that it seems suitable to begin with the oldest. The Congregational Unitarian denomination has the honor of possessing the oldest Protestant organization in Boston. The First Chu7-ch of Boston was organized by John Winthrop, Thomas Dud- ley, and other leaders of the Colonists, in Charlestown, under a great oak, in the summer of 1630. It was given the name of the "First Church of Christ in Boston," when they moved over to the neighbor- ing peninsula. The first meeting-house, with mud walls and thatched roof, stood on the south side of State Street, about where Brazer'^ Building now stands. The present edifice, on the corner of Berkeley and Marlborough streets, is the fourth building occupied by this society. It is a highly ornamented stone building, with a rich and tasteful interior. It seats about 1,000 persons. John Wilson was I the first minister of the church, and John Cotton the second. It i became Unitarian toward the close of the long service of Charles jChauncy, who was minister from 1727 to 1787. Rev. William Emer- ison, father of Ralph Waldo Emerson, was minister from 1799 to 181 r, Rev. Rufus Ellis was pastor from 1853 until his death, September 23, II1885. The second church established in Boston is represented by the 00 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Second Unit aria ?i Ckurc/i, in Copley Square. The society was )rganized in 1649, and has occupied six different meeting-houses. In he belfry of the third meeting-house hung the first bell cast in Boston, made by Paul Revere, in 1792. The first minister of the :hurch was Rev. John Mayo. Rev. Increase Mather was the second, lis service covering fifty-nine years (1664-1723). During the greater portion of this period, Cotton Mather was his colleague (1685-1728) ; md Samuel Mather was minister from 1732 to 1741. The first Jnitarian minister was Rev. John Lathrop (176S-1816). Succeeding )astors were Revs. Henry Ware, Jr., Ralph Waldo Emerson, Chand- er Robbins, Robert Laird Collier, and Edward A. Horton. Present castor, Rev. Thomas Van Ness, installed in 1893. Another prominent church of this denomination is the C/iiirck of 'he Disciples, on Warren Avenue, which was founded by the late fames Freeman Clarke, in 1841, " to embody the three principles of 1 free church, a social church, and a church in which the members, IS well as the pastor, should take part." Rev. Charles G. Ames is ;he present pastor. The present meeting-house was dedicated in [869. T/ie CJmrch of the Unity, on West Newton Street, near Tre- mont, of which the Rev. Minot J. Savage was the pastor until recently, is one of the most active churches in the city in the prose- ;ution of all good works. The Arlington Street Church, on the corner of Arlington and Boylston streets, is a successor of the old E^ederal Street Church, organized in 1724, imder the Presbyterian "orm. It became Unitarian in 1786. The exterior of the building is 3lain, with a well-proportioned tower and steeple, placed in the niddle of the front. The interior is modeled after the Church of S. ^.nnunziata, at Genoa, by Giacomo Delia Porta. A fine range )f Corinthian columns divides it into a nave and two aisles. In the ;ower is hung a chime of sixteen bells, a gift from the late Jonathan Phillips. The list of pastors of the church is short and distinguished : Belknap, John S. Popkin, Wm. Ellery Channmg, Ezra S. Gannett (first is associate with Channing from 1824 until the latter's death), John F. W. Ware, Brooke Herford, and John Cuckson, the present pastor. Congregational Trinitarian. — This denomination stands at the lead of Protestant organizations in Boston in the number of its :hurches. Among its forty-two societies, that of the Old South is the most ancient. [For description of the Old South Meeting-House, see ;;;^hapter IV.] This was the third church established in Boston, and ARLINGTON STREET CHURCH - Corner Boylston and Arlington Streets. CHURCHES. 101 was "gathered" in i66g. Its present home, the Nezv Old South Church, is the costly and imposing edifice on Boylston, corner of Dartmouth Street, and is one of the striking features of Copley Square. It is built of Roxbury and Ohio stone, in the Northern Italian Gothic style of architecture. It is cruciform, and has a great tower which rises 240 feet. From this tower an arcade, which shelters memorial tablets, extends to the south transept. Along the walls is a belt of gray sandstone, on which are carved the representations, vines, and fruit, among which animals and birds are seen. Over the center of the edifice rises a large lantern of gilded copper, with twelve windows. The interior is finished in cherry-wood and frescoed. The stained- glass window back of the pulpit represents the announcement of Christ's birth to the shepherds. The south transept window illustrates the five parables ; that in the north transept, the five miracles, and those in the nave, the prophets and apostles. Over the doorways are three panels of Venetian mosaic. The present pastor is Rev. George A. Gordon. Park Street CJiiirch, marking the corner of Tremont and Park streets, was built in 1809. This was the first Congrega- tional Trinitarian church established after the great Unitarian movement which caused such a breaking up of lines in orthodox ranks. In the early days the singing of the Park Street choir, com- posed of fifty singers, with flute, bassoon, and violoncello accompani- ment, was an attractive feature of the Sunday service. Rev. Dr. J. L. Withrow is the pastor. Berkeley Temple, corner of Berkeley Street and Warren Avenue, is the leading institutional church of New Eng- land. The Rev. Charles A Dickinson, D. D., is pastor. Episcopalian. — The first church of this faith estabhshed in Boston was King's Chapel, and the second old Christ Church. [For history and description of these churches see Old Landmarks, Chapter IV.] Trinity Church, third Protestant Episcopal church in Boston, was founded in 1728. The present beautiful church edifice in Copley Square is the third building occupied by the society. The building is considered the masterpiece of the great architect, Richardson, and it is open to visitors every day, except Sunday, from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. The architecture is the French Romanesque. Its shape is that of a Latin cross, with a semicircular apse added to the eastern arm and short transepts. The massive central tower is supported by four piers, close to the angles of the building, and stands on the square at the intersection of nave and transepts. The finial on the tower is 211 feet 102 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. from the ground. The stone of which the walls of the church are constructed is yellowish Dedham and Westerly granite, with freestone trimmings. The vestibules are finished in oak and ash, and the interior of the church in black walnut. The clear-story is carried by an arcade of two arches. Above the aisles a gallery is carried across the arches, which is called the " triforium " gallery, and connects the three main galleries, one across each transept, and the third across the west end of the nave. The chancel is 57 feet deep and 53 feet wide. It contains beautiful stained memorial windows, a brass lectern, and a marble font. The decorative work of the interior is by John La Farge. In the great tower are painted colossal figures of David and Moses, Peter and Paul, Isaiah and Jeremiah, with scriptural scenes high above. In the nave is a fresco of Christ and the Samaritan woman. The building is 160 feet long and 120 feet wide at the transepts. It rests upon 4,500 piles. The great tower weighs over 18,000,000 tons. The chapel is connected with the church by an open cloister. The cost of Trinity, land and building, was $750,000. Trinity Church has had many famous rectors, among them Revs. Samuel Parker, second Bishop of Massachusetts; John Sylvester, John Gardiner, one of the founders of the Athenaeum; J. W. Doane, afterward Bishop of New Jersey, and founder of Burlington College; John W. Hopkins, after- ward first Bishop of Vermont; Manton Eastburn, fourth Bishop of Massachusetts, and Phillips Brooks, sixth Bishop of Massachusetts. Phillips Brooks' service as rector covered a period of twenty-two years (1869-91). Present rector, Rev. E. W. Donald, installed in 1892. In the busiest part of Tremont Street, surrounded by modern busi- ness buildings, rise the gray granite walls of St. PaiiVs Church, the fourth Episcopal society of Boston. It was built in 1820, and features of the interior are the memorial tablets and the high, old- fashioned pews. The present rector of the church is Rev. John S. Lindsay. The Church of the Advent, on the corner of Mount Vernon and Brimmer streets, is of the High Church school. The exquisite music which is rendered by the boy choir of this church is a feature of the Sunday services. The Church of the Messiah, in St. Stephen Street, near Huntington Avenue, in the Back Bay, is "high church," giving the full English Cathedral Service. The rector is the Rev. John McGaw Foster. KING'S CHAPEL — Corner Tremont and School Streets. CHURCHES. 103 The Baptist Church in Boston goes back to the days of religious persecution, the first society of the Colony having been established in Charlestown in 1665. It was soon driven to Noddle's Island, now East Boston, which then contained but one dwelling. The first meet- ing-house was built at the North End, in Boston, on the corner of Salem and Stillman streets, in 1679. The First Baptist Church, on the corner of Commonwealth Avenue and Clarendon Street, is the descendant of that society. The church building was designed by the late H. H. Richardson for the society of the Brattle Square Church, and it was purchased by the First Baptist Society in 1882. The main feature of the church is the massive square tower, which is 176 feet high. On the frieze, between the belfry arches and the cornice, are colossal figures in high relief, which were carved by Italian sculptors, from designs by Bartholdi, after the stone had been put in position. The groups represent the four Christian eras. Baptism, Communion, Marriage, and Death. The statues at the corners of the tower typify the Angels of the Judgment blowing their trumpets. The building is in the form of a Greek cross, and the interior is lighted by three rose windows. The Rev. Nathan E. Wood is the pastor. The Union Temple Church, a Free Baptist church, was organized in 1839, and long established in Tremont Temple, which was burned in 1893, and has been succeeded by the new Tremont Temple. Dr. George Lorrimer, the present incumbent, has been twice pastor of the church. The Methodist Episcopal church has thirty-two organizations within the city. The Tremont Methodist Church, on the corner of Tremont and West Concord streets, is the finest church building belonging to this denomination in the city. It is in the plain Gothic style, and is constructed of Roxbury stone. Rev. J. D. Pickles, pastor. The churches of this denomination are to be found in every part of the city, and they are in the van in all missionary and charitable work. Presbyterianism has not kept pace with other religious sects in Boston, and at present has but nine church organizations. The First Presbyterian Church, Berkeley Street, corner of Columbus Avenue; the First Rcforjned Presbyterian Church, on Ferdinand, corner of Isabella Street, and the Scotch Presbyterian Church, on Warrenton Street, are among the more prominent societies of the denomination in the city. 10 104 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Of Universalist churches Boston has but ten. The first church was on School Street. Its site is now occupied by the School vStreet Block. Their present house of worship is on Guild Row, corner of Dudley Street. The Seco7id Univcrsal/st Church is on Columbus Avenue, corner of Clarendon Street. This has been the pulpit of the Rev. vStephen H. Roblin since 1895. His predecessor was the Rev. Dr. Alonzo A. Miner, who succeeded the Rev. E. H. Chapin. The Israelitish population of the city is centered in the old North End, and most of their synagogues, numbering thirteen, are located in that part of the town. The oldest Jewish society, that of the " Ohabei Shalom," has for its synagogue the old South Congrega- tional Church at II Union Park Street. The Temj^le of Adath Israel is on Columbus Avenue, corner of Northampton Street. It is a handsome Romanesque building of brick, brown stone, and terra-cotta, and contains six hundred sittings. It is the principal synagogue in Boston. Some miscellaneous churches should be mentioned. The IVork- iJig' Union of Prog7'cssive Spiritualists occupy the " Spiritual Temple," corner of Exeter and Newbury streets. This is the first meeting-house for Spiritualists erected in the city. It was built in 18S5, and its cost, $250,000, was met by Marcellus J. Ayer, a wealthy merchant. The oldest Sivcdenborgian CJiiircii in the city is a pic- turesque Gothic house on Bowdoin Street. This society was organized in 1 8 18. The vSalvation Army has meeting places at 7 Green Street, and 2058 Washington Street. The People' s Temple, corner of Colum- bus Avenue and Berkeley Street, is a free church, and the aim of its supporters is to make it attractive to all classes of people. The seat- ing capacity is from three to four thousand. This church was largely the conception of the Rev. J. W. Hamilton, a Methodist clergyman. The Christian Scientists occupy the First Church of Christ, on Fal- mouth Street, corner of Norway. The Latter Day Saints worship at 1 82 1 Washington Street. The Friends' Meetittg House is on Townsend, near Warren Street, Roxbury District. The Seventh Day Adventists are located at 26 Union Park Street. Roman Catholic Churches. Roman Catholicism met with many obstacles in its efforts to gain a foothold in Boston. But, when once established, its growth was steady and rapid, and to-day it probably leads all other sects in the r' * "f. TRINITY CHURCH — Boylston and Clarendon Streets. CHURCHES. 105 number of its communicants. It has forty-two churches, outnumber- ing, in this particular, every Protestant denomination except the Congregational Trinitarian. In all charitable and benevolent work, it is fully abreast of the times. Mass was first celebrated in Boston in November, 1788, in a building which stood on the present site of the School Street Building. This was the old Huguenot meeting- house, built in 1704. Afterward it became the meeting-house of a congregation of independent worshipers, and, finally, the first Cath- olic church. The Cathed7'al of the Holy Cross, on the corner of Washington and Maiden streets, is the largest and most noteworthy Catholic church in New England. It is constructed of the variegated Rox- bury stone, and the architecture is the early English Gothic. The massive towers will eventually be surmounted by spires, respectively 300 and 200 feet high. The cathedral, with its chapels, covers more than an acre of ground, and it has a seating capacity of 3,500. The interior of the church is divided by rows of bronzed pillars, which support a high clear-story and an open timber roof. The large win- dows are filled with stained glass, representing various scriptural scenes and characters. The chancel windows show the Crucifixion, the Nativity, and the Ascension; and those of the transept, each covering 800 square feet, represent the " Finding of the True Cross," and the " Exaltation of the Cross," by the Emperor Heraclius, after its recovery from the Persians. The nave is 125 feet high. Beneath it are class-rooms, chapels, and a crypt for the burial of bishops. The chancel contains a beautiful altar of variegated marble. The organ, which is built around the rose window on the west side, is one of the finest instruments in the country. It has 5,292 pipes and 100 stops. At the northeast corner of the building is the beautiful Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, containing the altar of the first Boston cathedral, which stood on Franklin Street. At the southeast corner is the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin, and in this is the costly marble statue of the Virgin. In the cathedral yard is a bronze statue of Columbus, by Alois Buyens. It is a replica of the San Domingo monument. It represents the explorer in the attitude of giving thanks, the left hand raised, and the right pointing to the globe at his side . The figure and pedestal are twenty-five feet high . The man- sion-house of the archbishop and the chief offices of the denomi- nation are on Union Park Street, at the rear of the cathedral. 106 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. The Church of the Immaculate Conception is on Harrison Avenue, corner of East Concord Street. The church was begun in 1857, and completed in 1S61. It is a solid structure of granite, without tower or spire. Above the entrance is a statue of the Virgin Mary, while above all stands a statue of the Saviour. The interior is very- fine. It is finished mainly in white, except at the altar end, where the ornamentation is exceedingly rich. On the keystone of the chan- cel arch is a bust representing Christ; on the opposite arch, over the choir gallery, one representing the Virgin, and on the capitals of the columns are busts of the saints of the Society of Jesus. On the panels of the rich marble altar the life of the Virgin is sculptured; and on either side of the structure are 'three Corinthian columns, with entablatures and broken arches, surmounted by statues of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin, the whole terminated by a silver cross, with an angel on each side. On the right of the broken arch is a figure of St. Ignatius, and on the opposite side one of St. Francis Xavier. The painting of the Crucifixion, behind the altar, is by Garibaldi of Rome. In the center of the elliptic dome, over the chancel, is a dove with outspread wings. The two side chapels within the chancel are dedicated to St. Joseph and St. Alo3'sius. Other Religious Organizations. There are a great number of missionary and religious societies, both unsectarian and denominational, which do a beneficent work in the city. Some of these are national in character; others purely local. Among these may be mentioned the Boston Deaf Mute Society, at 458 Boylston Street, which provides a meeting-place and preaching in sign language, free to all deaf mutes ; the Clark Street Mission, which aids and protects discharged prisoners; the City Missiojtary Society — Congregational House — No. 14 Beacon Street, which provides moral and religious instruction for the poor; the Episcopal City Mission of Boston, No. i Joy Street, which does missionary work in the hospitals and prisons, and among the sailors, meets the steamers bringing steerage passengers, and sends visitors into the densely populated portions of the city to labor for the spir- itual welfare of the poor; the St. Vincent de Paul Society, 36 Charity Building, which is active in a variety of religious and charitable work; the North End Union, 20 Parmenter Street, a society for the elevation of the poor at the North End; the U7iion Rescue Mission, 34 RELIGIOUS AND BENEVOLENT WORK. 107 Kneeland Street, engaged in aiding and lifting up poor, fallen humanity ; the United Society of Christian Endeavor, 646 Washing- ton Street, a religious society, composed of members of evangelical churches, for the training and guiding of young Christians ; the Order of the King's Daughters, 7 Temple Place, organized to do "anything that helps another human being to be better and happier, and to develop spiritual life and stimulate Christian activity;" and the Massachusetts Bible Society, 12 Bosworth Street, sells or distributes, gratuitously, Bibles and Testaments. Societies for Social Iinproveiueiit. The Boston Young Men's Christian Association occupies a handsome building on the corner of Boylston and Berkeley Streets. The object of this society is to provide a homelike resort, with good influences, for young men. The building contains attractive parlors, reception-rooms, reading, game, and class rooms, halls for lectures, and a thoroughly equipped gymnasium. Membership in this associ- ation is open to men over fifteen of any religious belief. The Boston Young Men's Christian Union, 48 Boylston Street, is open to young men, over sixteen, of any color or sect. It incites its members to religious and mental culture, and to practical philan- thropy. The building has reception-rooms, parlors, a study, library, class and reading rooms, a fine gymnasium, and three public halls. In the largest of these halls — the Union — there are 500 seats, and it has a stage and appliances suitable for amateur dramatic perform- ances. The Boston Young Men's Hebrew Association, 68 Springfield Street, is open evenings. It is devoted to the social and moral ad- vancement of young men. The Young Woman's Christian Association, No. 40 Berkeley Street, was established in 1866. Its object is " to care for the tem- poral, moral, and religious w^elfare of young women who are depend- ent upon their own exertion for support, and to help them in such a way that their self-respect shall not be hurt." It maintains a lodging, house, restaurant, a training-school for domestics, a school of domes- tic science, evening classes for working girls in dress-cutting, dress- making, millinery, cooking, typewriting, stenography, and a normal school of physical education, an employment bureau, and a business agency for the various employments open to women. 108 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. The Women's Educational and Industrial Union, 264 Boylston Street, was established in 1880, and has for its object "to increase fellowship among women, and promote practical methods for their educational, industrial, and social advancement." It maintains a reading-room free to all women of any race or creed; library, classes in bookkeeping, gymnastics, embroidery, millinery, drawing, music, language, etc.; lectures and entertainments on Wednesday evenings in winter, free to men and women; religious meetings on Sunday, for women only, and health talks, by women physicians, twice a week. An agency of direction gives information as to boarding- houses, summer resorts, schools, etc. A befriending committee visits the sick. In the lunch-room a simple bill of fare, at moderate prices, is presented, and women can bring their own lunch to eat here without purchasing. Charities and Hospitals. Hospitals. — Boston is one of the foremost cities in the country in the number and equipment of her hospitals. A stranger suffering from illness or accident ought to feel no hesitation in availing him- self of the comff)rt and care provided by these institutions. The Massachusetts General Hospital, on Blossom Street, had its origin in a bequest of $5,000, made in 1799; but it was not incorpo- rated until 181 1. It is the most complete and perfectly organized in- stitution of its kind in the country, and the oldest, save one — the Pennsylvania Hospital. The stately main building, of Chelmsford granite, was designed by Bulfinch. It stands in pleasant shaded ground. It admits, under light conditions, patients suffering from diseases or injuries, from au}^ part of the United States or British Provinces; and provision is made for free treatment, or treatment at the cost to the patient of the expense involved. No infectious dis- eases are admitted, and chronic or incurable cases are generally refused. On proper call the hospital ambulance, with medical officer, is dispatched, at any hour, to points within the cit}" proper, north of Dover and Berkeley streets. Every arrangement is niade, in the hospital, for the treatment, comfort, and happiness of the patient. In connection with this hospital is the Commie scent Home , at Wa- verly, and the McLea7t Asylum for the Insane, also established in Waverly. The hospital maintains a training school for nurses, and a dispensary which gives treatment only. RELIGIOUS AND BENEVOLENT WORK. 109 The names of many men eminent in the medical profession have, at all times, been on the list of its visiting physicians and surgeons. In one of the operating-rooms of this hospital a capital operation was first performed under the influence of ether. (See The Ether Monument, in Chapter III.) The Boston City Hospital occupies the entire square between Harrison Avenue, East Concord, Albany, and East Springfield streets, and a part of the adjacent square to Massachusetts Avenue. It is maintained by annual appropriations from the municipal government, and it is governed by a board of trustees representing the government. The hospital staff, consisting of visiting, out-patient, house, departments, and medical and sur- gical assistants, numbers about seventy. The hospital is chiefly intended for free patients, but there are accommodations for a number of pay -patients, at prices varying from $10 to $30 per week. Tlie hospital proper consists of the central administration building, and eighteen other buildings for patients, forming an effective architectural group. The hospital for contagious diseases, completed 1894, is known as the Chester Park Hospital, and has accommodations for 260 patients. It is intended for such infec- tious diseases as diphtheria, scarlet fever, measles, etc. This group of buildings has cost about $350,000, and is the best of any hospital in existence devoted to this special purpose. No American city, save Boston, is provided with a place like this, where gently- nurtured people may have all the comforts and attentions to which they are accustomed. The Convalescent Home, connected with the City Hospital, is at Milton Lower Mills, about four miles from the hospital. It is a fine old family mansion, which has been extended and enlarged, and accommodates thirty-six patients. It is in a beautiful park of fifteen acres. The Massachusetts Homoeopathic Hospital, on East Concord Street, was incorporated in 1S55, but was not established and ready for patients until 1S71. For five years it occupied a house at 14 Burroughs Place. The present beautiful building was opened for patients in May, 1S76. The funds for its erection were raised by a grand fair, which was held by its friends, and netted nearly $80,000. The hospital has recently been enlarged at a cost of $100,000, and is pronounced, b^^ competent judges, one of the most successful and satisfactory hospitals in the State. 110 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. The Carney Hospital, on Old Harbor Street, South Boston, was incorporated in 1865. The location is, in every respect, desirable. It stands on Dorchester Heights, and commands an extensive view of Massachusetts Bay, and also of the city. The land on which the hospital stands, and a fund of $53,000, were a gift from the late Andrew Carney. It is in charge of the Sisters of Charity, and is a Catholic institution, but patients of all classes are admitted, no distinction being made on account of creed, color, or race. It is a hospital of the first class, with well-equipped operating-rooms, etherizing-rooms, and other departments. Other Hospitals. — Adams Nervine Asyliiin, for persons of both sexes affected with nervous diseases. West Roxbury District, Center Street. Boston Lying-in Hospital , No. 24 McLean .Street. Chan- ning Home, for women and children, chiefly incurables. No. 30 McLean Street. Children s Hospital for medical and surgical treat- ment of children, Huntington Avenue, Back Bay District. Consump- tives' Ho7ne, for both sexes. Homoeopathic treatment, Roxbury District, corner of Warren Street and Blue Hill Avenue. Free Hospi- tal for IVomen, for treatment of diseases of women, 817 Harrison Avenue and Brookline Street. House of the Good Samaritan, for the treatment of women and children, especially incurables. No. 6 McLean Street. New England Hospital for Women and Children, under the charge of women. It offers young women studying medi- cine opportunities for clinical study which other hospitals afford to young men; Dimock Street; dispensary, 29 Fayette Street. Smallpox Hospital, near rear entrance of Forest Hills Cemetery, Canterbury Street. Special Home, for both sexes afflicted with spinal diseases, homoeopathic treatment, Roxbur3'- District, corner Warren Street and Blue Hill Avenue. St. Elizabeth' s Hospital, for women. No. 61 West Brookline Street. St. foseph's Home for Sick and Destitute Servant Girls, for incurables especially, Nos. 41 to 45 East Brookline Street. St. Marfs Lying-in Hospital {axidi Infant Asylum), Dorchester District, Bowdoin Street. United States Naval Hospital, connected with the Charlestown Navy Yard, Chelsea. Other Public Institutions which come under the jurisdiction of the city government, are the Houses of Industry and Reformation, and the Truatit School at Deer Island; the House of Correction and Lunatic Hospital Sii South Boston, the Almshouses a.t Rainsfordand RELIGIOUS AND BENEVOLENT WORK. HI Long Islands, and Charlestown; the Marcella Street Home for neglected boys and girls, and the Parental School, at West Roxbury. The Associated Charities of Boston. — The objects of this society are to secure the concurrent and harmonious action of the different charities in Boston, in order to raise the needy above the need of relief, prevent begging and imposition, and diminish pauperism ; to encourage thrift, self-dependence, and industry through friendly intercourse, advice, and sympathy, and to aid the poor to help them- selves ; to prevent children from growing up as paupers, and to aid in the diffusion of knowledge on subjects connected with the relief of the poor. To accomplish these objects, it provides for the thorough investigation of the case of every applicant for relief, and places the result of such investigation at the disposal of the Overseers of the Poor, of charitable societies and agencies, and of private persons of benevolence. It makes all relief conditional upon good conduct, and sends friendly visitors into the families of the poor. Their offices are in the Charity Building, on Chardon Street. The Private Charities of Boston are numerous and efficient. They meet almost every want to which suffering humanity is subject, and they are conducted with rare intelligence and devotion. It would be impossible, in a work of this character, to mention even the more prominent private philanthropies. Information concerning them may be obtained at the Charity Building, on Chardon Street. VIII. CLUBS, SOCIETIES, AND MILITARY ORGANIZATIONS. The social clubs of the city are not of special interest to strangers, since, without an invitation from a member, no one is admitted to their privileges. Boston has many clubs, social, literary, professional, business, and commercial. Some of these clubs have palatial houses, wherein every appliance of comfort and luxury is to be found, but many of them are confined to rooms in some convenient locality. The following is an alphabetical list of the leading clubs and societies in Boston, with brief r€marks: Algonquin, 217 Common\*iealth Avenue. This is one of the lead- ing social clubs. Its membership includes bankers, brokers, mer- chants, lawyers, etc. It was organized in 18S5, and occupies one of the finest and most perfectly appointed club-houses in the cit)-. The exterior, in Italian Renaissance architecture, is of Indiana limestone. The reading-room, library, and billiard-hall are each over eighty feet long, and the dining-rooms and other apartments are convenient and attractive. Apollo Club, 153 Tremont Street. [See Chapter V.] Appalachian Mountain, Tremont Building. The objects of this association are to explore the mountains of New England and the adjacent regions, both for scientific and artistic purposes, and, in general, to cultivate an interest in geographical studies. Its mem- bers make frequent expeditions to these mountains, strike out new paths, establish camps, construct and publish accurate maps, and collect all available information concerning the mountain regions. The Atlantic Yacht, Commercial wharf. (11^ CLUBS, SOCIETIES, ETC. 113 Boston Architectural, 5 Tremont Place, comjjosed of architects and draughtsmen, and non-professionals interested in the aims of the society. Boston Athletic Association, Exeter, corner of Blagden Street. [See Chapter V.] Boston Camera Club, 50 Bromfield Street, composed of amateur photograjjhers, and devoted to the advancement, among its members, of a knowledge of photography in all its branches. The Boston Art Club's handsome home is at the corner of Dart- mouth and Newbury streets. The club entrance is on the Newbury Street side, while the public entrance to the art gallery is on the Dartmouth Street front. The building is in the Romanesque style of architecture, with hexagonal corner tower with a massive project- ing balcony. This club was organized in 1857, with a membership of twenty persons, nearly all of whom were professional artists. In 1874 the club was reorganized and now numbers 137 professional and 650 non- professional members. The objects of the club, as stated in its con- stitution , are ' ' to advance the knowledge and love of art through the exhibition of its works of art, the acquisition of books and papers for the purpose of forming an art library, lectures upon subjects per- taining to art, and by other kindred means ; and to promote social intercourse among its members." The interior of the house is convenient, sumptuous, and inviting. The exhibition gallery, on the second floor, is 47 by 47 feet, and 18 feet high, and, by the arrangement of the interior of the house, the gallery can be thrown open for public exhibitions without encroaching upon the rooms devoted exclusively to club purposes. The club has a val- uable library of works on art and books of reference. Its regular spring, summer, and winter exhibitions are important features of the art season in Boston. The Boston Society of Decorative Art is located at 222 Boylston Street. The purpose of this .society is "to raise the vStandard of design in hand-wrought work and in manufacture, and to guide all those who use the needle, the brush, or the modeling- tool for deco- rative ends, to an appreciation of pure form and noble design, so that the objects produced or decorated by these agencies might be beauti- ful to the eye and satisfactory to the cultivated taste." The rooms of the society are open from 10 a. m. to 5 p. m. on week-days, and many 114 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. beautiful specimens of decorative work are on exhibition. Admission free. The Boston Turn Verein, 29 Middlesex Street, was organized in 1849, and it is the leading German society in the city. The club- house contains a thoroughly equipped gymnasium, billiard -rooms, bowling alleys, a hall having a seating capacity of 500, and a stage for private theatricals, concerts, and other entertainments; a reading- room and library, and restaurant, parlors, and reception-rooms. The Bostonian Society, Old State House, is an organization to " promote the study of the history of Boston, and the preservation of its antiquities." It has charge of the upper stories of the Old State House, and maintains the rooms on the second floor, with the collec- tion of antiquities there, for public exhibition. The Boston Merchants' Association, 56 Bedford Street, was incorporated in iSSo. Its membership rejDresents various branches of business. It has regular standing committees on transportation, arbitration, debts and debtors, and postal facilities, telegraphy, etc. Its annual banquets are features in the mercantile life of Boston. Boston Chess Club, 18 Boylston Place. Boston Fencing Club, 20 Beacon Street. Boston Press Club, i4Bosworth Street, composed of newspaper proprietors, publishers, editors, reporters, and managers, and persons regularly engaged in literary pursuits. Boston Yacht Club, 817 East Sixth Street. It is the senior yacht club of Boston, and dates from 1866. Its club-house is at City Point. Caledonia Club, 694 Washington Street, composed largely of leading Scotch citizens. Catholic Union, 16S2 Washington Street, composed of leading Catholics. Cecilia, 153 Tremont Street. Commercial Travelers', 694 AVashington Street. Elysium Club, 218 Huntington Avenue. This is composed of the leading Hebrew residents of the city. The club-house was erected in 1891, and it is, in every way, convenient and attractive. Mayflower Club, 7 A Park Street, a social club of women, organized, in 1S93, to provide comfortable rooms down town, "fur- nished wnth periodicals and conveniences for writing, and where a simple lunch may be obtained." The club-rooms are pleasant and QOmfortably furnished, and the restaurant is especially inviting. CLUBS, SOCIETIES, ETC. 115 Massachusetts Yacht Club, Rowe's Wharf. New England Woman's Club, No. 3 Park Street. This is one of the most prominent ckibs of Boston. Its organization, in 186S, was closely followed by that of " Sorosis " of New York, but the latter club does not resemble its predecessor in its aims. Sorosis is purely a social club, while the New England Woman's Club is not only social, but has a wide-reaching work in many directions. The Woman's Club was intended as a center of rest and social convenience for women already active in various philanthropic ways to the extent of their ability, with the hope and belief that the time thus econo- mized from fruitless search of each other, or spent socially in a less satisfactory manner, given to this sympathetic intercourse, might turn to still more fruitful use from the reaction upon each other of minds so well trained in varied service, when brought to bear upon the special needs of women. Paint and Clay Club, 419 Washington Street. This club was founded in 1S80. Its constitution requires that members shall be connected with art, literature, or music. It gives occasional recep- tions and art exhibitions. The Puritan Club, 50 Beacon Street, composed of young men of social standing and wealth. It has excellent table d'hote din- ners for members, and pleasant dining-rooms for private parties. Republican Club, 19 Milk Street. St. Botolph Club, 2 Newbury Street, largely composed of professional men. It was organized in iSSo, and the purpose of its projectors was to establish a club similar to that of the Century in New York. Among its members are several of the most distinguished of the liberal clergymen of the city, representa- tive literary men, physicians, journalists, artists, and members of the bar. A feature of the club-house is its large art gallery. The Somerset Club, 42 Beacon Street. This is the most fashionable and exclusive of Boston's clubs. It has occupied its present quarters since 1872. The house, which was formerly the mansion of the late David Sears, stands on the site of the home of Copley, the famous painter. It is an imposing granite front, "double-swell" house, with convenient and elegant interior. A notable feature is a ladies' dining-room for guests of the mem- bers, which is also open to non-members accompanying ladies on club orders. 116 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. The Suffolk Club, whose house, at ^yi Beacon Street, is a modest, comfortable, and homelike structure, is a purely social club. Politics do not enter into its plans, but it happens that many prominent Democrats are among its members. Union Club, S Park Street. This club was established during the Civil War, primarily as a political club in support of the Union cause. The house was formerly the home of Abbot Lawrence. It is spacious, well arranged, and furnished, adorned with paintings and other works of art, and provided with a fine library. It has, for many years now, been a purely social club, having abandoned its political features. The Tavern Club occupies very pleasant quarters at No. 4 Boylston Place, in an old-time mansion, which is adorned with works of art and curiosities, given by members. It is a lunch and dining club of gentlemen who are interested in literature, art, music, etc. The Temple Club, located at 35 West Street, is the oldest club in the city, having been established in 1S29. It is a purely social club, and the membership is small. The club-house presents a plain exterior, but its interior is admirably arranged and equipped for club purposes. The University Club, 270 Beacon Street, was organized in 1881, and its membership is composed entirely of college-bred men, and includes representatives of all the leading colleges in the country. It occupies one of the most sumptuously appointed club-houses in the city. The Unity Art Club, 724 Washington Street. Union Boat Club, foot of Chestnut Street, on the Charles River. This is, with one exception, the oldest boat club in the United States, having been organized in 1S51. It is an exclusively amateur associa- tion, no member being allowed to enter into negotiations to row a race for a stated sum of money, nor can the funds of the club be appropriated for prizes. There are several Literary Clubs in Boston which, having no club-houses, meet at some leading hotel. The Saturday Club dines once a month, at Parker's. Many celebrated writers have belonged to this club. The Wednesday Eveni?ig Ce?itury Club and the Thurs- day Club are associations in which the professional element is dom- inant. They meet at the houses of members. Among the Professional Societies may be mentioned the Boston CLUBS, SOCIETIES, ETC. 117 Medical Association, which holds its meetings at 19 Boylston Place; the Boy Is tort Medical Society of Harvard University, the Boston Society for Medical Improvement, the Boston Society for Medical Observation, the Boston Homoeopathic Society, the Boston Drug- gists' Association, and the Bar Association of the City of Boston. Scientific and Learned Societies. Boston has many societies devoted to scientific and learned inves- tigations. The American Academy of Arts and Sciences has rooms in the Historical Society's building, and is, with one exception, the oldest scientific society in the country. The object of its founders was "the promotion and encouragement of a knowledge of the antiquities and the natural history of America; the encouragement of medical studies, mathematical disquisitions, philosophical inquiries and discoveries, astronomical, meteorological, and geographical observations, and improvements in agriculture, the arts, manufac- tures, and commerce." Volumes of its "Memoirs" and "Proceed- ings" are from time to time published. Its library contains 22,000 volumes. (See Libraries.) The Massachusetts Historical Society, which in 1899 moved into a new building at Boylston Street and the Fenway, was founded, in 1 791, by Rev. Jeremy Belknap and seven associates. Its object is to investigate matters of history, and preserve records and relics illustrating it, especially locally. It publishes extensively. The New England Historic Genealogical Society, at 18 Somerset Street, was founded in 1844, and has for its object the study and pub- lication of historical and genealogical facts about New England and her people. The library embraces the largest collection in the country of genealogies of New England families. The Boston Society of Natural History meets in its Museum building (seep. 69), at the corner of Boylston and Berkeley streets. The Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association, Hunt- ington Avenue, corner of West Newton Street, was instituted, in 1795, at the " Green Dragon Tavern." Its primary objects were to relieve the families of unfortunate mechanics, and to assist young mechanics with loans of money, and to promote inventions and im- provements in the mechanic arts. It has, for a long period now, held " Triennial Festivals," or public exhibitions. The present exhibition building is one of the largest in the country. Of its three halla» 11 118 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Mechanics' Hall, seating about 6,000, is the largest. Paul Revere was the first president of this association. Secret Orders. All, probably, of the secret orders and societies in the United States are represented in Boston. The following are notable : Free Masonry. — The first Masonic lodge in the country was organized in Boston, in July, 1733. The headquarters of the Masonic societies of the city are in Masonic Tonplc, on the corner of Tremont and Boylston streets, a magnificent granite building, finished in 1899. The sub-basement includes a large banqueting-hall. The upper part of the Temple is divided into many halls, lodgerooms, and general offices of the order. The new Corinthian Hall, on the third floor, will seat 255 persons, and is a refined copy of the old hall; it contains an organ operated by electr-ic power. The rooms of the Grand Master and the library (for about 50,000 volumes) are also on this floor. In the old temple one of the features was the Egyptian Hall. This is replaced by Ionic Hall, which occupies a part of the fifth floor, will be used by the chapters and the commanderies, and will have one of the three organs. A gallery reached from the tyler's station, with platforms and galleries, having a sea^ ' ig capacity of about 375, is a feature of this apartment. The Prelates rooms are also on this floor. Gothic Hall (650 seats and a stage) and other rooms especially adapted for the Scottish Rite bodies occupy a part of the. seventh floor. In the sixth, eighth, and ninth stories are armories, lodgerooms and parlors. Odd Fellows.— The first lodge of Odd Fellows in Boston was organized March 26, 1820 — the second in the country. The head- quarters of the several organizations in the city are in Odd Fellows' Building, No. 515 Tremont Street, corner of Berkeley. The Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks, No. 24 Hayward Place, is a secret benevolent organization, incorporated in 1879. Its membership, at first composed chiefly of actors, now includes persons from all professions. It gives assistance to members who are ill or out of employment, according to the discretion of a relief committee. Military Organizations. State Militia. — The headquarters of the First Brigade are at No. 19 Milk Street, and of the Second Brigade at No. 37 Tremont Street. The First Corps of Cadets, M. V. M., quite an aristocratic four- company battalion of young men, organized in 1741, and once com- CLUBS', SOCIETIES, ETC. 119 manded by John Hancock, are quartered in the castellated granite armory on Columbus Avenue, southeast corner of Ferdinand Street. The First Regnnent of Infantry, the Fifth Regiment of Infantry, and the First Battalion of Cavalry, make their head- quarters in the Irvington Street Armory. The Sixth Regiment of Fifantrfs Armory is on Green Street, corner of Chardon; and the Ninth Regiment of Infantry is on East Newton. The Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company is the oldest mili- tary organization in the country. It was chartered in March, 1638, as "The Military Company of Boston," and Robert Keayne, one of the chief promoters of the new organization, was its first captain. It was not until 1657 that it became an artillery company, when it was recognized as such by the general court. The title "Ancient and Honorable" was assumed in 1700, first appearing in its records in September of that year. It was styled "ancient" because of its great age, and " honorable " from the fact that some of its earlier members had belonged to the Honorable Artillery Company of Lon- don. The company was dispersed by the Revolution, and revived in 1789, when its name and privileges were confirmed by the Legisla- ture. The anniversary of its organization, the first Monday in June, is still celebrated by an annual parade. A sermon is preached to the company, a good dinner is served in Faneuil Hall, and speeches listened to; and thereafter all march to the Common, where the Gov- ernor of the Commonwealth delivers to the newly-elected officers their commissions and the insignia of their offices. The company has its headquarters in Faneuil Hall, and frequently makes extensive visiting journeys, of which the most notorious of late was its visit to England in 1895, and its expedition to Baltimore in 1896. IX. A TOUR OF THE CITY. In the following pages is presented a single day's itinerary, covering the more important points of attraction in the city proper, and some of those which, from historical or other associ- ations, are always considered in connection with Boston. Of course, it would not be possible, within such limits of time, to linger long at any one point, and many places which would prove interesting must be omitted from such a tour; but if one has but a short time in which to compass the sights and beauties of^this historic town, it is believed that a strict adherence to the route here proposed will enable him to cover more ground, and to see more intelligently the places visited. Wasliiugtou Street. Washington Street, starting at Haymarket Square, and trav- ersing the city longitudinally from the old "North End," through Roxbury to Dedham, is the principal business thoroughfare. The corner of Washington and Bedford streets is about in the center of the hotel and theater district, and will be a good point from which to start on our pilgrimage. Here, on the southeast corner, is the great dry goods establishment of R. H. White & Co., occupying a stone structure, and reaching through to Harrison Avenue, in the rear. Keeping on the right side of Washington Street and walking to the north, we pass some of the largest and finest retail stores in the city. The block, from Avon to Summer Street, with the exception of Shuman's corner, is occupied by the handsome freestone store of Jordan, Marsh & Co. On the opposite side of Washington Street, between Temple Place and Winter Street, is the great music publishing house of Oliver Ditson & Co. (120) A TOUR OF THE CTTY. 121 Here, on the southeast corner of Milk and Washington streets, is the building of the Boston Tra7isc7'ipt, the oldest evening news- paper in Boston. On the opposite corner of Milk Street is the Old South Mccting-Housc, which is described in the chapter entitled " Old Landmarks." Here we must pause to enjoy the quaint old sanctuary, and spend a few minutes in viewing the col- lection of antiquities which are exhibited in the church. The entrance fee is 25 cents, and goes toward the maintenance of the building. On the opposite side of Washington Street is the build- ing of the Boston Ti'aifcllcr, the first 2-cent evening newspaper in Boston, and the first to display news bulletins. Milk Street. Let us now turn down Milk Street, noting the building on the opposite side. No. 17, which bears a tablet announcing that it marks the site of Benjamin Franklin's birthplace. Among the buildings, many of which are occupied by banks, railroad, and other corporations, the most notable are those of the International Trust Company, its light stone fagade ornamented with carving and sculpture, and then the great insurance buildings. At the corner of Devonshire and Milk is the massive granite building of the Equitable Life Assurance Society, full of banks and offices, with the Security Safe Deposit vaults in the basement. Elevators run to the roof, whence there is a magnificent view of the city and harbor. Next our attention is claimed by the white granite building, in the Renaissance style, of the New England Mutual Life Insurance, at the corner of Milk and Congress streets. This building is crowned by colossal statues. Adjoining this the white marble building, with a stone clock-tower, rising 130 feet, and terminating in a graceful spire, is that of the Mutual Life Insurance Company of New York. Crossing Post Office Square, we must stop long enough to view the ponderous Gove7'nmcnt Building, which faces the square, and fills the space bounded by Milk, Devonshire, and Water streets. The Post Office Department occupies the basement, the ground floor, and part of the second story of the building. In the second story are also the offices of the Pension Agent, the Naval Pay and Internal Revenue Departments, and the Sub-Treasury. The latter is a fine hall, 50 feet high, adorned with rich marbles and costly trimmings. 122 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. The United States Courts, the Lighthouse Board, Lighthouse In- spectors, and the Signal Service Department are all housed in this building. The exterior walls of the building are of Cape Ann granite. The fagades rise more than loo feet above the side- walks, and the whole is a composition of pilasters, columns, and round-arched windows, proportioned to set off the massive structure. On the Post Office Square front are the heroic, sculptured groups, in Vermont marble, by Daniel C. French of Concord. Facing the building, the left-hand group represents "Labor Protecting the Family and the Arts " ; Labor, a stalwart figure, with his right arm supported by the horn of the anvil against which he is leaning. Under his right arm are the mother and child; at his left is a graceful woman supporting a vase, while at her feet lie sculptured masks and capi- tals. The group at the right represents ' ' Science Controlling the Forces of Steam and Electricity." The central figure, Science, rests her foot on a closed volume — her undiscovered secrets — and sup- ports on her left arm a horeshoe magnet, with a thunderbolt as an armature. At her feet crouches a slave, with hands chained to a loco- motive wheel; about him clouds of steam and fragments of ma- chinery. At her right is disclosed the Spirit of Electricity, from whom she throws back her drapery, which has veiled the figure, and he stands ready to dart forth to "put a girdle round the earth," which lies at his feet. These groups are among the best examples of symbolic sculpture in the country. Custom House and Viciuity. After leaving the Post Office, let us turn east on Water and pass through Liberty Square, with the Mason Building in the middle of the square, to Broad Street. Turning to the left, and then at Central Street to the right, we come to the Custom House, a solid, dignified building, in the form of a Greek cross, and the exterior in pure Doric st^de. It was begun in 1835, and was twelve years in building. The walls, columns, and even the entire roof, are of granite, and it rests upon 3,000 piles. Each of the massive, fluted columns is 5 feet 2 inches in diameter, 32 feet high, and weighs over 40 tons. There are thirty-two of these columns. The porticoes have each six columns. The granite dome, at the intersection of the cross, terminates in a sky- light, which is 25 feet in diameter. The cross-shaped rotunda, finished in the Grecian-Corinthian style, is the main feature of the interior. BOSTON CHAMBER OF COMMERCE - India Street, near Atlantic Avenue. A TOUR OF THE CITY. 123 Just beyond the Custom House, on India Street, is the Chmnbei' of Commerce Buildini^, with circular front and lofty, conical roof pierced by high dormer windows. It is Romanesque and irregular in plan, conforming to the shape of the lot. The chamber occupies the entire third floor. The board-room, or exchange, is circular in form, with high domed ceiling — the apex 38 feet above the floor — and has a floor space of 4,300 square feet. The visitors' gallery is over the entrance. Leaving the Chamber of Commerce and retracing our steps for a short distance, pass to the rear of the Custom House and along Commercial Street to the Qirincy Market, a long, low, granite building, with porticoes of massive granite columns, and at either end a well-proportioned dome. This market-house (offi- cially called " Faneuil Hall Market") is a monument of the first Mayor Quincy's administration, which covered six terms, i823-'29. It was built in 1S25-6, and cost, exclusive of the land, only $150,000. The building is 534 feet long, extending from Commercial Street to Faneuil Hall Square. A w^alk through the market, from the east to the west portal, will be found instructive and interesting; while outside, on both the north and south sides of the building, the countless vegetable and market wagons make an animated scene. Leaving the market by the west portal, you are directly oppo- site old Faiicuil Hall, in which every patriotic American feels an interest. [For history and description of Faneuil Hall, see chapter entitled Old Landmarks.] After visiting the " Cradle of Liberty," and viewing the collection of portraits and relics of Colonial and Provincial times, let us pass through Dock Square to Adams Square, where Miss Anne Whitney's Statue of Samuel Adams calmly surveys the hurry, and bustle, and crowd of Washington Street. This statue, which is a counterpart of that by the same artist in the Capitol at Washington, was set up in 1880, the 250th anniversary of the settlement of the town. The patriot leader is represented as he is supposed to have looked when he was await- ing Governor Hutchinson's reply to his demand for the instant removal of the British troops from the town, the day after the " Massacre of 1770." Let us now turn up Washington Street, and, keeping on the left side of the street, we must take time to admire the lofty Ames Building, on the northwest corner of 124 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. Court and Washington streets. This is a very tall building indeed, as, although covering a very small area, its granite walls rise to a height of 190 feet. This finely designed structure cost about $700,000. It was completed in 1890, and its tenants are chiefly banking institutions and lawyers. On the opposite corner of Court and Washington streets is another handsome business block, the Sears Building. This is in the Italian Gothic style of architecture, its exterior walls of gray and white marble. Here several great Western railroads and New England manufacturing companies have their offices. Just in the rear of this building, on Court Street, is Young's Hotel; and here, on our left, standing at the head of State Street (in ante-Revolutionary days King Street), is the Old Slate House. [For history and de- scription of the Old State House, see chapter entitled "Old Land- marks."] After completing our inspection of this most interesting relic, let us walk a short distance down State Street, the financial center of the town. State Street. Emerging from the Old State House, by the eastern portal, we are confronted on either hand by massive modern buildings. On the north side, at No. 28, is the building of the Merchants' National Bank, the largest banking institution in New England. Just beyond this is the Massachusetts Hospital Insurance Build- ing. On the south side of State Street is the old-fashioned Brazer's Building, which will, doubtless, soon give way to a much larger structure. The ten-story building of light brick, occupying the little block formed by Congress Square and Congress Street, is the Worthington Building, built by Roland Worthington, the former owner of the Boston T?'aveller. The most notable of the modern buildings of State Street is the mammoth twelve-story granite Stock Exchange, one of the largest office buildings in the country. It has a frontage of 170 feet on State Street and 160 feet on Kilby Street. The cost of this great structure was $4,000,000. In this building are the quarters of the Stock Exchange, at the end of the entrance nail on the first floor. The chamber is a fine hall 115 feet long, 50 feet wide, and 35 feet high, with Corinthian pillars around the sides. Entrance to the visitors' gallery is from the marble hall of the second floor of the build- ing. Looking down from this gallery, the " pulpit," where the chair- A TOUR OF THE CITY. 125 man sits during the sessions, is seen in the middle of the right side of the room ; beyond it the Boston Stock Board ; and opposite that, on the left side of the room, the New York Board, with a nest of tele- phone boxes below. Near the " pulpit " is the telegraph room ; and immediately opposite, on the left side, is the entrance to the bond room. In the block beyond the Exchange Building is the solid stone Fiske Building. The brownstone and yellow brick Farlow Building on the corner of Merchant's Row, and the white marble Richards Building, just below, complete the list of great modern buildings on this quaint old thoroughfare. Newspaper Row. Retracing our way through State to Washington, and again turn- ing to the left, we are in the midst of the newspaper offices. News- paper Row is the name given to that part of Washington Street between State and School streets. The first of these offices to our left, on the east side of the street, is the handsome freestone structure occupied by the Globe. In politics it is Democratic. Just above and adjoining the Globe is T/ie Daily Advertiser s marble building. It covers the site of the shop and dwelling of James Campbell, book- seller and postmaster, who issued the Boston News-Letter, the first newspaper successfully established in North America (1704). This is the oldest morning paper in Boston, the first number hav- ing appeared on March 3, 1813. In politics the Advertiser is Repub- lican. In 1884, the Advertiser corporation began the publication of The Evening Record, a penny evening paper, agreeing with the Ad7>crtiser in politics. On the same side of the street, near the corner of Water Street, is the building of the Boston Journal , a Republican morning and evening paper, which was first published, in 1833, under the name of the Evening Mercantile Journal. Its present name was adopted when the publication of the morning edition was begun, in 1837. On the opposite side of Washington Street are the Herald and Post buildings. The Boston Herald, a morning, evening, and Sunday paper, independent in its political relations, was founded in 1846. Its present building, in the French Renaissance style, has been occupied since 1878, and is one of the best equipped offices in the city. Next to the Herald Building is the home of the Boston Post, a. Democratic morning paper, founded by Charles G. Greene, in 1S31. 126 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. School Street and the City Hall. A few steps down Washington Street brings us to the corner of School Street, where stands the Old Corner Book Store. [See " Old Landmarks"]. School Street is a short, but crowded, thoroughfare, running from Washington to Tremont Street. On our right is the brownstone and brick front of the Nilcs Block, on the site of the dwelling of Dr. John Warren, first professor of surgery in Har- vard University, and brother to Dr. Joseph Warren, one of the heroes killed at Bunker Hill. On the opposite side of the street, where the School Street Block now stands, was the Pluguenot Meeting-House, built in 1704, and this same meeting-house, in 1788, was transformed into the first Catholic church. A few steps brings us to the City Hall, a white granite building, erected in 1S65. It is in the Italian Renaissance style, crowned by a Louvre dome. Within this building are the rooms of the mayor, the halls of the board of aldermen and common council, and other city ofhces. In the dome is the central point of the fire-alarm telegraph system. In the yard, at the left of the entrance, is a fine bronze portrait statue of Benjamin Frajiklifi, by Richard S. Greenough. The statue is eight feet high, and stands on a pedestal of Quincy granite, capped by a block of verd-antique. On the bronze medallions are represented important events in Frank- lin's life: South Face.— The boy in the printing office; with this inscription below: "Born in Boston, 17 January, 1706; died in Philadelphia, 17 April, 1790." North Face.— His experiment with the lightning; with this inscription: " Eriptiit occlo ftibnen, sceptrmngue tyj-aniiis.''' East Face. — Signing the Declaration of Independence, 4 July, 1776. West Face.— Treaty of Peace and Independence, 3 September, 1782. The statue of Josiah Quincy, on the right, is by Thomas Ball. The figure is heroic, and stands on a pedestal of Italian marble. The pedestal, which was also designed by Ball, bears the following inscription: JosiAH Quincy. 1772-1864. Massachusetts Senate, 1804. Congress, 1805-1813. Judge of Municipal Court, 1822. Mayor of Boston, 1823-1828. President of Harvard University, 1829-1845. This statue was erected with money drawn from a trust fund A TOUR OF THE CITY. 187 established, in iS6o, by Jonathan Phillips, who bequeathed to the city $20,000, " the income from which shall be annually expended to adorn and embellish the streets and public places," King's Chapel [see chapter entitled " Old Landmarks"] is next to the City Hall, while across the street the Parker House [see remarks on " Hotels " in Chapter I] lifts its marble front and fills in the block from Chapman Place to Tremont Street. ScoUay Square and Vicinity. As we turn into the narrow, crowded thoroughfare of Tremont Street, we notice, on the northeast corner of Beacon and Tremont streets, the great department store of Houghton & Button. On our right, after passing King's Chapel and the burying ground, we come to the Boston Museum Building [see Chapter V] and, on the corner of Tremont and Court streets, the brownstone Hcmcjiway Building, marking the site of an old house in which General Washington stayed during his visit to Boston in 1789. Scollay Square, an irreg- ular triangle, caused by the removal of the old Scollay Building, is the terminal point of several street-car lines, and contains one of the principal transfer stations of the Subway. The main feature of the place is the bronze statue of Governor John Winthrop, by Richard S. Greenough. The statue was erected in iSSo, and was also paid for out of the Jonathan Phillips fund. It is a duplicate of that standing in the Capitol at Washington. Winthrop is represented as just landed in the New World. In his right hand is the Colony Charter, and in his left the Bible. At his back is shown a newly cut forest tree, with a rope attached, significant of the fastening of the boat in which he is supposed to have come to the shore. Crossing Scollay Square to the entrance of Pemberton Square, we can see the front of the County Court House, which stretches across the entire length of the square. It is a massive granite building, in the German Renaissance style, 450 long, 190 feet in its greatest width, and 85 feet high. The building incloses four court-yards, which have an area of 14,632 feet. About these court-yards are grouped the rooms and corridors. The building covers 65,356 feet. The entrance for judges and jury are in the rear of the building. The imposing entrance hall is ornamented by a series of emblematic statues by Dominga Mora. They represent Law, Justice, Wisdom, Innocence, 138 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. and Guilt. George A. Clough was the architect of this building, which was begun in 1871, and cost $2,500,000. Keeping to the left around Pemberton Square, we enter Somerset Street, and, turning to the left again, we pass Jacob Sleeper Hall, chief building of Boston University. Let us now walk along Beacon Street to the south. On the east side of the street is the building of the Boston Athengeum, nearly- opposite this the Hotel Bellevue, and next beyond this the massive brownstone Unitarian House. Here are the denominational book salesrooms, offices and committee rooms of the American Unitarian Association, the Unitarian Sunday School Society, which compre- hends the whole country, and the Benevolent Fraternity of Churches; and on the upper floor, " Channing Hall." Congregational House, containing " Pilgrim Hall," is opposite it. At the corner of Beacon and Park streets is the Raymond B it il cl- ing, formerly one of the finest houses in the city. It was built, in 1804, by Thomas Amory, and was called "Amory's Folly," because of its great size and costliness. It was at a later period divided into four dwellings. Among the distinguished people who have, at differ- ent times, been its tenants, were Gov. Christopher Gore, Samuel Dexter, the great lawyer and statesman, and Edward G. Malbone, the miniature painter. Lafayette stayed here for two weeks, in 1824, as the guest of the city, the house having been rented for this pur- pose by Mayor Quincy. The Shaw Monument is immediately opposite this corner, on the edge of the Common. Beacon Hill. The next object to claim our attention is the State House, on the highest point of Beacon Hill. This fine old building is approached by a broad flight of stone steps. In the yard, on the right, is a bronze statue of Webster, by Hiram Powers; on the left, one of Horace Mann, by Emma Stebbins. The State House, with its gilded dome, is visible from many parts of the city and harbor. The land on which it stands was Governor Hancock's cow pasture, and was purchased from his heirs by the town and A TOUR OF THE CITY. 129 given to the State. The buildiflg was designed by Biilfinch, the first and one of the greatest of American architects. The corner- stone was laid by the Free Masons (Paul Revere, Grand Master), July 4, 1795. It was first occupied by the Legislature in January, 1798. In 1853-56, it was extended northerly to Mount Vernon Street, and, a few years later, its interior was remodeled. In 1874. it was extensively repaired, and its dome was gilded, and in 1889, the State's business having outgrown it, the Legislature authorized the construction of the " State House Exte7isio7i " in the rear of the original building. The extension is of yellow brick, with trimmings of white marble, simulating the familiar yellow and white of the " Colonial " style. Its design was intended to harmonize with that by Bulfinch, but the result is generally regarded as infelicitous, being severely criticised as out of scale and weak in effect, though having the merit of considerable good detail. The entrance halls of the State House are magnificent apartments of marble, the interior one, admitting by splendid staircases to the Legislative Halls above being particularly imposing. The front, or " Doric," hall contains two statues, one of Washing- ton, by Chantrey, and one of Governor Andrew, by Thomas Ball. The interior of the extension is pleasant, cheerful, well ven- tilated, and, for the most part, convenient. It is occupied by the various administrative and executive departments of the common- wealth, and includes two large and handsome halls — that of the House of Representatives and the State Library, besides various legislative committee-rooms, etc. The Senate remains in its chamber in the old building. The new Hall of Representatives is a handsome and richly decorated room, considerably larger than the old hall, but lacking the stately beauty of the latter, which is one of Bulfinch 's finest interiors. The acoustic properties of the old hall are perfect, but those of the former turn out to be very defective. The decorations of the new hall, by Mr. Frank Hill Smith, are very handsome. Its amphitheater shape, with domed ceiling, lends itself well to fine decorative effects. The treatment is in the Italian Renaissance. Prominent features of the scheme are the names of fifty-three men, eminent in Massachusetts history, inscribed on the frieze, beginning with John Carver and ending 12 130 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON, with Phillips Brooks; the nameg of the counties in the stained- glass skylight, and the symbols of vStatecraft, Law, Commerce, Science, Industry, the Arts, etc., that occupy panels in the coving and elsewhere. Grounds of considerable extent have been taken east of the State House to form open gardens. These have a fine outlook, and are adorned by two monuments. One is a heroic bronze statue to Major- General Charles Devens, famous in the Civil War, modeled by the late Olin T. Warner. The other is a lofty granite column, bearing a great bronze spread eagle, which is "to commemorate that train of events which led to the American Revolution, and finally secured Liberty and Independence to the United States." It was "erected by the voluntary subscriptions of the citizens of Boston." It is further interesting from the following facts: "In 1634 the General Court caused a beacon [whence the name Beacon Hill and Street] to be placed on the top of this hill. In 1790 a brick and stone monument, designed by Charles Bulfinch, replaced the beacon, but was removed in 1811, when the hill was cut down. It is now repro- duced in stone by the Bunker Hill Monument Association, 1898." Just beyond the State House, in the fence in front of a modern brownstone house, is a tablet announcing that here once stood the Hancock Mansion, which, in its day, was one of the finest mansions in the town. Built, in 1737, by Thomas Hancock, it was inherited by his nephew, John Hancock. It was taken down, in 1863, to make room for inodern improvements. At the corner of Beacon and Joy streets is the lofty Hotel Tiido7\ one of the largest and finest apartment houses in Boston. In its rear. No. i Joy Street, is the Diocesan House, used by the various organizations of the Protestant Episcopal Church. The house be- longs to the EpiscoiDal Church Association. Through the Coiniuon and Public Garden. Now, let us cross Beacon Street and enter tJic Conini07i by way of the Joy Street gate. By taking the path to the right and skirting the Frog Pond to its western extremity, we shall strike a path leading to the Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument. [See The Co?n?non, in Chap- ter III.] Leaving the Common by the Charles Street gate, and crossing the street, we are at once in the midst of the beauties of the Public Garden. [See The Public Garden, in Chapter III.] If we A TOUR OF THE CITY. 131 follow the main walk across the bridge to the Arlington Street gate, we shall have time to view the beautiful equestrian statue of Wash- ington, and the fountain and Ether Monument to our right. ■ Coinnionwealtli Avenue. We now cross Arlington Street and enter the stately boulevard. Commonwealth Avoiiic, with a shady parkway through its center, and palatial homes lining it on either side. We will follow the shady central path and, quite near Arlington Street, we pass the granite statue of Alexander Hamilton, the work of Dr. William Rimmer. This was the gift to the city of Thomas Lee, the donor of the " Ether Monument " in the Public Garden. Just beyond Berkeley Street is the bronze statue of Gen. John Glover, commander of the Marble- head Marine Regiment in the Continental Army. This is Martin Milmore's work, and was presented to the city by Benjamin T. Reed. Crossing Clarendon Street, at the left is the beautiful First Bap- tist Church, described in Chapter VII. On the southeast corner of Dartmouth Street is the Vendome, its white marble front extending along the avenue a distance of 240 feet. In front of the Vendome in the parkway is a bronze statue of William Lloyd Garrison, the great anti-slavery agitator. The statue is the work of Olin L. Warner of New York. This is one of the best portrait statues in the city. On one side of the pedestal is cut Garrison's daring declaration : " I am in earnest; I will not equivocate; I will not excuse; I will not retreat a single inch; and I will be heard." And on the other side: " My country is the world; my countrymen are all mankind." Copley Square. We will now turn back to the corner of Dartmouth Street, and keep on the right side of that street to Copley Square. On the corner of Newbury we pass the Boston Art Club's home, and opposite, on our left, the Victoria Hotel, a brick building with crenelated trim- mings and battlemented top. Here we catch a glimpse of Copley Square, the center of artistic, literary, and educational life in Boston. At our right, on the corner of Boylston and Dartmouth, is the new Old South Church. Facing the square is the chaste and classic front of the new Public Library, with 12 133 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. its enormous pedestals at either side of the entrance, waiting for St. Gaudens' groups, and much of the expanse of its pale walls covered richly with the names of the world's greatest men. On the south side is the Museum of Fine Arts, with matchless treasures of Oriental art, and at the east stands Trinity, with its beautiful central tower and its quiet cloisters. On the north side of the square are the Second Unitarian Church, Girls' Latin School, and two apartment houses. A recent writer, in speaking of this most attractive part of the town, says: " Copley Square, at certain hours of the day, presents the aspects of a new Latin quarter, so conspicuously does the student element predominate in the throngs that cover its pavements. Here the currents intermingle and cross, now tending toward the Massa- chusetts Institute of Technology, on Boylston Street (' Tech ' is the only name ever given this great scientific school in Boston); now hurrying toward the Harvard Medical School; now making for the three busy art schools in the neighborhood — those of the Museum of Fine Arts, the Massachusetts Normal Art School, the Cowles Art School; and, eddying aside from the main currents, go the thou- sands of school-boys and school-girls, bound for the countless public and private schools of the Back Bay and the South End — one build- ing alone, that of the public Latin and English High Schools, con- taining nearly 2,000 boys, who come to it from all parts of Greater Boston." To Cambridge via Harvard Bridge. And now we will take an electric car going south on Boylston Street, with " Harvard Square " on end sign, and visit Harvard Col- lege, in Cambridge, but which, in reality, spreads all over Boston. Our route is along Boylston Street to Massachusetts Avenue and west- ward across Harvard Bridge. As we cross Commonwealth Avenue we catch a fleeting glimpse of Miss Whitney's statute of Leif Ericsson and the Fens. From the bridge we can look back on our right and see the houses of the Back Bay region. While speeding along Massa- chusetts Avenue, we must notice on our right, at the corner of Inman Street, the City Hall, a gift to the city from a former resident. [See Cajubridge, in Chapter H, and Harvard Umvcrsity.'xn Chapter VL] In returning to Boston, we take the Bowdoin Square car, which, starting from Harvard Square, passes along Kirkland, Cambridge, A TOUR OF THE CITY. 133 and Bridge streets; Craigie Bridge, which affords a good view of Charlesbank [see Chai-lesbank, in Chapter III], Leverett, Causeway, Portland, and Sudbury streets to Bowdoin Square. Here we will leave this car and board another, which passes along the famous old Corn- hill to Adams Square, where Washington Street is entered. Charlestown and Bunker Hill. The car crosses Hanover Street to Haymarket Square; passes through Beverly Street, and then across the broad bridge to Charles- town. On the right, as we cross the bridge, we have glimpses of the harbor and shipping, while on our left are the railroad bridges. Crossing City vSquare, with the Waverly Hotel on one side, and the old City Hall of Charlestown ahead, the car runs off on Park Street. As it enters Warren Street, the Navy Yard can be seen down a long street to the right, and just ahead is the Charlestown Soldiers' Monu- ment, the work of Martin Milmore. Three squares beyond, on look- ing up Monument Street to the right, and at its head, we see the granite obelisk of Bunker Hill Monument. [See Chcwlestowji and Blinker Hill Monument, in Chapter H.] Returning by the same route, we shall find ourselves back at the point from whence we started, having covered much of the territory and noted man^^ of the points which, from historical or other fame, are most attractive to visitors. X. BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. The Harbor. — The advantages of Boston Harbor have often been recounted by scientists, and are constantly experienced by those who go down to the sea in ships. The facility and safety of its approaches, the ample width and depth of its entrance, and the shelter and tran- quility of its roadsteads, are not surpassed by those of any harbor in the world. Her interior water-space is divided by chains of islands into basins, which offer sufficient room for 500 ships of the largest class to ride freely at anchor, and sufficient tranquility for the frailest pleasure craft. But it is not of these things that the average tourist will think as he stands on the deck of one of the harbor steamboats that ply between the city, and the towns, and the resorts that line the shores on either hand. The surpassing loveliness of the harbor, its surface dotted with numberless islands of fantastic shape, and its irregular and picturesque shores, will hold him spell-bound, and for- getful of scientific data and historical legend. And Boston has nothing better, in the way of entertainment, to offer to her guests than a sail on the blue waters of her bay. Most of the islands have a history which it would be interesting to review, and those who are tracing resemblances will find amusing the fol- lowing description by Doctor Shurtleff : "Noddle's Island, or East Boston, as it is now called, very much resembles a great polar bear, with its head north and its feet east. Governor's Tsland has much the form of a ham, and Castle Island looks like a shoulder of pork, both with their shanks at the south. Apple Island was, probably, so named on account of its shape ; and Snake Island may be likened to a kidney ; Deer Island is very like a whale facing Point Shirley ; (134) BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. 135 Thompson's Island, like a very young unfledged chicken ; Spectacle Island, like a pair of spectacles ; Long Island, like a high-top mili- tary boot ; Rainsford's Island, like a mink ; Moon Island, like a leg of venison ; Gallop's (not Galloujje's), like a leg of mutton ; Lovell's, like a dried salt fish ; George's, like a fortress, as it is ; Peddock's, like a young sea monster ; and Half Moon, like the new or the old moon, as you view it from the south or the north. The other small islands resemble pumpkins, grapes, and nuts, as much as anything; hence the names of them." Two defunct forts slumber in Boston Harbor — Fort Indepejideiice, on Castle Island, and Fort IV/nt/irop, on Governor's Island. A third. Fort Warren, alive and armed with several hundred watchful eyes, stands guard at the entrance to the harbor, on George's Island. The Islands. Castle Island was the first fortified island in the country. Here, in 1634, the Colonists erected rude fortifications, which were replaced, in i7oi,by Castle William, a brick fort. This was burned by the British when they evacuated Boston in March, 1776. The Provincial forces then took possession of the island and repaired the fort. In 1797, its name was formally changed to Fort Independence, President John Adams attending the ceremonies. The island was ceded to the General Government in 1798. This island was the scene of many fatal duels in the early days, and a memorial stone of such an event is still standing, which relates that " near this spot, on the 25th of Dec, 1817, fell Lieut. Robert F. Massie, aged 21," and bears these lines : " Here Honor conies, a Pilgrim gray, To deck the turf, that wraps his clay.' From 1785 to 1S05, it was the place of confinement of prisoners sentenced to hard labor, provision that this privilege should be retained having been made in the act of cession to the Federal Government. The present fort was built about the year 1855, and a small portion of the wall of the old castle remains in the rear part of the fortifica- tion. Castle Island, as we have seen in Chapter III, is now a part of the public park system, connected with the Marine Park on South Boston Point. Governor's Island, just north of Castle Island, was granted to Governor Winthropin 1632, and was, subsequently, confirmed to his 136 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. heirs, in 1640 the condition was made that its owner should pay one bushel of apples to the general court, and one to the Governor, every winter. The island continued in the sole possession of the Winthrop family until 1808, when part of it was sold to the Government, for the purpose of erecting a fort, which was named Fort "Warren. This name was subsequently changed to Fort Winthrop, in honor of the Governor and the early owners of the island. The uncompleted fortifications on this island may sleep on forever, for modern warfare, with its far- reaching bolts, must be waged many miles from this old stronghold. Thompson's Island, to the south of Castle Island, contains the Boston Asylum and Farm School for Indigent Boys. Long Island is about five miles from the city. It contains 182 acres, and has belonged to the city since 1885. Here are a United States lighthouse and a battery. The city almshouse for female paupers, which has accommodations for 500 inmates, is on the island, and other public institutions are to be erected in time. The light- house, which was built in 1819, is an iron tower 35 feet in height, and stands on the highest bluff in the harbor. The fixed light is 80 feet above the level of the sea, and can be seen, in a clear night, about fifteen miles. The lantern has nine burners. Nix's Mate. — East of Long Island Head is a low, rocky island, on which stands a solid structure of stone, 12 feet in height and 40 feet square. All the stones in this piece of masonry are securely fastened together with copper. Upon it rests an octagonal pyramid of wood, 20 feet high and painted black. It is supposed that this monument was erected in the earlier years of the present century, though the date is not known. Its purpose was to warn vessels of the dangerous shoals in the harbor. Why the island is called Nix's Mate is uncer- tain. There is a tradition that the mate of a vessel, of which one Captain Nix was master, was executed upon the island for killing the latter. But it was known as "Nix's Island" as long ago as 1636, before any execution for murder or piracy had taken place in the Colony, and this would seem to unsettle this theory. It is a part of the tradition that Nix's mate protested his innocence, and prophesied that the island would be washed away. If such a prophecy was made, it has been fulfilled, for the records show that, in 1636, it con- tained in the neighborhood of twelve acres. There is now not more than one acre of shoal, and there is not a vestige of soil remaining. Several pirates have since been hanged there. BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. 137 Deer Island, north of Long Island, is where the Houses of Indus- try and Reformation, the city correctional institutions, are located. The island contains 182 acres. Deer Island Beacon, the little light- house off the southern extremity of Deer Island, is the newest light in the harbor, having been established in 1890. It is a conical frame tower, in which is a fixed white light, varied by a red flash every thirty seconds. It is visible twelve nautical miles. George's Island, on which Fort Warren is built, lies amid the currents of the harbor, and commands the main ship channel, Nan- tucket Roads, and the approach to the harbor. Occupied by the only United States garrison in Massachusetts, it is, undoubtedly, the most interesting spot in the harbor. It has not the Puritan traditions of Castle and Governor's islands, for in those early days it was thought too far away to be of much interest. The island was claimed as the property of James Pemberton of Hull, as early as 1622. His pos- session of it was confirmed, and it was bought, sold, and inherited by various parties imtil 1825, when it became the property of the city of Boston. It is now, of course, under the jurisdiction of the United States Government. Earthworks were erected on the eastern side of the island, in 1778, for the protection of the French fleet, com- manded by Count d' Estaing, then lying in the roadstead, against the attack of British cruisers. In 1833 work on the present formida- ble fortress was begun, and it was completed in 1850. The granite fortress, designed by General Thayer of Braintree, isbuiltin the shape of a five-pointed star, each point being a bastion. Close to the walls is a deej? ditch, the main work being surrounded by a moat, beyond which are other works. The six-acre inclosure is entered through a postern gate, an arch of about five feet in height, opening into another arched portal. When the Civil War broke out there wej^e no guns mounted at Fort Warren and no garrison. Governor Andrew, how- ever, sent the Second Battalion of Massachusetts to the island, can- non were placed in position, and the deserted fortress became a strong defense. During the Civil War Fort Warren was used for confinement for noted Confederate prisoners. One empty apartment is pointed out as the residence of Mason and Slidell, the Confederate commissioners to Great Britain and France, who were taken from a British vessel bound from Havana to England, and brought here for safe-keeping. They were well treated and enjoyed life in spite of their confinement. 138 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. On the morning of January i, 1862, the emissaries were escorted, with their secretaries, to the wharf and took passage to Provincetown, where they embarked in a British war-vessel and proceeded to Eng- land. Alexander Stevens, vice-president of the Confederate States, was also under guard here for five months, in 1865. Generals Gault and Hanson, and Harry Gilmour ; Major-General Johnson, captured, with his whole division, at Spottsylvania, were also among the dis- tinguished prisoners. Since the Civil War, Fort Warren has not slept. The guns bristle on her battlements to warn off the foreign invader ; up and down strides the ever-watchful sentinel ; inside the walls the men are being trained in the tactics of modern warfare. The only guns that are fired are those to welcome his excellency, the Gcvernor of the Commonwealth, when he visits the post, and at the sunset hour, when their booming resounds across the waters to the neighboring shores. The fortifications are undergoing changes, to meet the require- ments of present methods of warfare, and on the northern and east- ern sides of Fort Warren, those sides that look out on the broad sweep of the Atlantic, works of solid concrete are being built that will, when finished and manned with 12-inch guns, make a defense that will practically intercept the entrance of foreign war- ships to the harbor. These parapets are to be covered with earth, which, when sodded, will present a beautiful and innocent exterior, conveying no hint of the smoldering volcano within. In time, the walls of the southern and western sides will be leveled, to make way for the newer system, hastened by the events of 1898. Fort Warren is reached by the trim little steamer Resolute, which runs between Boston and the island. Lovell's Island, lying to the north of George's Island, belongs to the United States, and is a Government buoy station. It contains seventy-one acres. Gallop's Island, to the southwest of Lovell's Island, has belonged to the city since i860. The main ship channel lies between Lovell's and Gallop's islands. Other islands belonging to the city are: Rainsford's Island, contain- ing seventeen acres, on which is located one of the city institutions ; Spectacle Island, containing sixty-one acres ; Apple Island, contain- ing nine acres, and Moon Island, containing about thirty acres, BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. 139 which was taken, by right of eminent domain, in 1879, and constitutes the point of discharge of the great sewer. Boston Light is about two miles east of Fort Warren, at the entrance of the harbor. Brewster's Island, on which it stands, has been a lighthouse station since 171 5, when the general court of the Colony ordered one established. During the Revolution the light- house was several times destroyed and rebuilt. In 1783, it was once more restored by the State, being built this time of stone, and it has since been enlarged and improved. It is a second-class revolving white light, visible sixteen miles at sea. The tower rises 100 feet above the level of the sea, and can be seen at a great distance, even by day. A heavy fog-horn is also jolaced here to warn approach- ing vessels in the foggy weather, which often prevails. Bug Light is upon the end of a long, sandy spit stretching out from Great Brewster Island. It is supported above high water on a system of iron rods fixed in the rocky ledge, affording no surface for the waves to batter and destroy. It is a fixed red light, standing about thirty feet above the level of the sea. It is visible for about seven nautical miles, and is intended to warn navigators of Hard- ing's Ledge, which is about two miles out at sea, east of Point Aller- ton, and is one of the chief dangers of the harbor. Seaside Kesorts. Boston is grandly situated with reference to summer resorts. Along the rocky coast of Massachusetts, stretching away from Boston, to the north and the south, in wonderful curves and inden- tations, including several good harbors, stands a succession of towns where comfort-seeking Bostonians may dwell during the warm months, and yet be within an hour's sail or ride from their places of business. The North Shore and The South Shore, as they have come to be called, are the natural divisions of this chapter, which present themselves for consideration. The North Shore. By the North Shore is meant the northern coast of what was formerly called Massachusetts Bay, but which, on modern maps, is a part of the Atlantic Ocean. It extends from Nahant and Swampscott, on the southwest, to Gloucester and Cape Ann, on the northeast. For the sake of convenience, however, we shall 140 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. include under this heading several resorts which lie between Bos- ton and Nahant. Winthrop is a beautiful peninsula, with about eight miles of beach. Summer cottages and boarding-houses abound, and many of Boston's busy toilers find here a refuge for their families during the heated term, which is within easy distance of their places of ■ business. It is reached by the Winthrop branch of the Revere Beach & Lynn Railway, and by a steamboat. Hotels.— y^r^j/^ Hotel— %i. New Willi hr op Hotel— %2. Shirley House — $1.50. Revere Beach is a gentle sloping beach of sand, several miles long, lying between Winthrop and Nahant, and terminating at the north in Point of Pines. It is now a part of the city's park system. Sea bathing is safe and pleasant in the light surf. There are numerous bathing and refreshment houses, and thousands of Bostonians come hither on every hot summer day to enjoy the invigorating sea breezes and the sight of the broad expanse of the ocean. At the Point of Pines are fine hotels, and society is somewhat less heterogeneous than elsewhere on the beach. The Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railway runs directly along the edge of the beach, affording passengers charming sea views all along the route. Hotels. — Glcason House — $2 to $3. Russet House — $2 to $4. StraitJiniorc Hotel — $2 to $4. Nahant, the oldest watering place on the North Shore, is a rocky promontory, stretching out into the sea, nearly at right angles with the coast from Lynn, to which it is joined by a narrow line of sand beach, three miles long, traversed by a single road. It has, for many years, been a favorite resort for old Boston families, and its popularity has never waned among those who have once acquired an interest in its territory. The invigorating' coolness of the atmosphere, even on the hottest days; the boldness and picturesqueness of rock effects, and the illusion of being at sea, are among the characteristics w^hich never lose their charm.' Along the water's edge, on the eastern side, stands a magnificent array of cliffs, which, for ruggedness and bold beauty, are not BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. 141 surpassed by any on the North Shore. Here is the well-known Pulpit Rock, so named from its shape, to the top of which, in former days, a venturesome young woman climbed, only to dis- cover that she had to be lowered by ropes. The old hotel, which was burned more than thirty years ago, has never been rebuilt. A successful club, organized within the last few years, is the social center which tempts cottagers from their comfortable piazzas. Dwellers at Nahant are distant, by either sea or land, only an hour from the city. Those who sleep at Nahant can enjoy a delicious sail to the city by steamboat, which is, for those who love water, preferable to a heated, dusty railway journey. At Bass Point, the southwestern point of the peninsula which constitutes Nahant, is a comfortable restaurant, where well-cooked meals may be obtained. Hotels.— Hofel Tudor — %-}> to $5. Hotel Na/ianf— %2. so to $3. Lynn is a city of 50,000 inhabitants, on a plain between the sea and a line of rugged porphyritic hills. It is the chief shoemaking place in the world, and employs in that industry more than 12,000 persons. The once well-known Ocean Street of Lynn should not be omitted from any itinerary of the North Shore. It is a short, straight avenue along the sea front. Twenty-five years ago it was divided into fifteen or twenty beautiful estates, of from one to three acres in extent, ranged side by side in stately dignity. They fronted on the avenue, and backed on the full expanse of that portion of the sea which lies under the lee of Nahant. Under the influence of the demand for summer residences, these fine estates have been cut up into smaller building lots, and traversed by connecting streets. The old-time mansions have been pulled down, and, while in a few cases they have been superseded by very elaborate structures, the majority of the new cottages are of the every-day Queen Anne type. Ocean Street is largely occupied by the wealthy shoemakers of Lynn, who live there the year round. Hotels. — Hotel SeymoH}-—%2 to $2.50. Parker House — %i. Kirkland—%2.. Swampscott is connected with Lynn by a single shore road, which runs out of Ocean Street. It has, for many years, been a favorite 13 143 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. camping-ground of Boston people who wish to live by the sea with as little expense and trouble as possible, and, at the same time, be close to the city. Here are several large hotels and boarding-houses, and many sea-shore villas, with picturesque rocky points and inter- vening sandy beaches. Beach Bluff is a residence community east of Swampscott. Hotels.— //^ inches around. The thumb BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. 149 measures i foot 8>^ inches around. The circumference of the neck is 9 feet 2 inches, and the nose is i foot 4 inches long. From center to center of the eyes is i foot 6 inches. The figure is 216 times life- size. The plan of the principal pedestal is octagonal, with four small and four large faces. From the small faces project four buttresses, or wing pedestals. On the main pedestal stands the figure of Faith, one foot resting upon Forefathers' Rock, the left hand holding a Bible; the right, uplifted, pointing to heaven. On each of the four smaller, or wing, pedestals is a seated figure. They are emblematic of the principles upon which the Pilgrims proposed to found their Commonwealth. The first is Morality, holding the Decalogue in her left and the scroll of Revelation in her right hand. Her look is upward toward the impersonation of the Spirit of Religion above. In a niche, on one side of her throne, is a prophet, and in the other one of the Evangelists. The second of these figures is Law : on one side Justice, on the other Mercy. The third is Education : on one side Wisdom, ripe with years ; on the other Youth, led by Experience. The fourth figure is Freedom : on one side Peace rests under its pro- tection ; on the other Tyranny is overthrown by its powers. Upon the faces of these projecting pedestals are alto-reliefs, representing scenes from the history of the Pilgrims — the Departure from Delft Haven, the Signing of the Social Compact, the Landing at Plymouth, and the First Treaty with the Indians. Returning from the monmuent grounds to Court Street (the main street), and passing the head of Old Colony Park, the first interesting point of visitation is Pilgrim Hall, on the same side of the street with the park, and distant from it about thirty or forty rods. Within this hall will be found a museum of Pilgrim me- morials and curiosities. A short distance from Pilgrim Hall, still keeping upon Court Street, the court house occupies a commanding site on the right, a pretty lawn in front. In this building are to be found many valuable and curious documents, including the Patent Docu- ments and Records of the Colony, the will of Miles Standish, etc. These will be shown upon application to the Registry of Deeds. The court house is situated at the base of Burial Hill, on the north; but, to visit this famous spot, it is better to return to Court Street and continue the walk southward. At the head of 150 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. North Street, the name of the main thoroughfare changes from i Court to Main Street, and the course is directly through the busi- ness section of the town. Main Street soon abuts upon Leyden i Street, the first street laid out by the Pilgrims, and abounding ; in their memorials to this day. Arrived at Leyden Street, on the ; right, looking westward, is Town Square, and beyond the square ; the gravestones of Burial Hill are in full view. On the left, or eastward, the street runs directly to the water front, a side street at the brow of the hill, opposite the first house ^ winding northerly to Cole's Hill, which overlooks the Rock and its canopy. From Burial Hill a series of the finest outlooks imaginable are afforded, including scenes and localities of greater or less historic importance; and all the immediate neighborhoods are centers of historic associations. Here is the site of the ancient fort, which served as a meeting-house, and toward which the Pilgrims wended their way with muskets upon shoulder or swords in place. The graves of Pilgrims are in every part of this elevated burying ground. Looking outward over the ocean waters, the course of the " Mayflower," her anchorage, Clark's Island, the Gurnet, and all the harbor and bay situations con- nected with Pilgrim adventures are in full \new. Landward some notable localities of Council Fires and Indian Feasts are to be seen. From Burial Hill standpoints the town lies literally under one's feet. Main Street has three streets abutting upon and running at right angles with it — North Street, Middle Street, and Leyden Street; and each of these leads directly to Cole's Hill and the water front, overlooking the Rock and the shore line. Cole's Hill was the place of burial of many of the Pilgrims who died during the first winter, their graves having been carefully concealed, so that the Indians might not know of them. Here were buried, also, many Indians. The Rock and the original Landing Place are at the base of this steep hill, and a few steps brings the visitor from its brow to the canopy over the Rock. In the War of the Revolution, and in that which followed from 1812 to 1S15, fortifications were maintained upon this hill. As the distances oceanward are somewhat deceptive to unpracticed eyes, it may be here noted that from the water front opposite the BOSTON HARBOR AND SEASIDE RESORTS. 151 canopy of the Rock, the distance to Gurnet Light is within a small fraction of five miles. The length of Plymouth Beach, which forms the outer protection of the harbor, from the Manomet Hills to the extreme point of the beach, is a little more than three and a half miles. The beach, from head to point, is two and five-eighths miles in length. When the Pilgrims landed, this beach was largely covered with forest growth, in which deer and other animals common to the Plymouth woods to this day roamed. A ride on the electric railroad, which pursues the line of the water from Kingston to beyond Hotel Pilgrim, near the base of the Mano- met Hills, will make available a constant succession of harbor and bay views, from constantly changing standpoints, and is one of the best experiences possible to the visitor to the Plymouth locality. If this ride is supplemented by a drive to some more inland point or points within a short distance of the shores, the delights of the Plymouth trip will be indefinitely multiplied. A visit in this way to Morton Park, one of the finest provisions of its kind; Billington Sea, South Ponds, or the White Horse neighborhoods, or in almost any direction along or away from the water front, will richly repay the trouble and expense in making it, and aflford the visitor an apprecia- tion of the natural beauties and resources of this ancient town. The Plymouth Steamboat makes one round trip daily from Win- throp Line Wharf, passing the forts and islands mentioned elsewhere in this chapter. Outside of Boston Light, it turns to the southward, down the Old Colony Coast, passing Nantasket Beach, Minot's Ledge Lighthouse, Cohasset, Scituate, Marshfield, and Duxbury. Plymouth is also reached by the Old Colony division of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railway. Hotels. — Hotel Pilgrim — $2 . 50 to $3. Samoset House — $2.50 to $3. Plymouth Rock — %i. INDEX 1 PAGE ADAMS, Statue of Samuel 123 American Academy of Arts and Sciences 117 Ames Building 123 Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company 119 Annexed Districts 28 Apartment Houses. 22 Apollo Club - --- 72 Apple Island... 138 Arnold Arboretum. 48 Art Club, The Boston.. 113 Associated Charities 1 1 1 Athletics. - - - 74 Austin & Stone's Museum 68 BAGGAGE Transfers and De- livery - II Barnum Museum... 69 Base Ball 75 Bass Point 141 Beacon Hill 128 Beverly 143 Beverly Farms. 143 Boarding and Lodging Houses... 23 Boston Athenaeum.. 69, 94 Boston Athletic Association 74 Boston City Hospital 109 Boston College 80 Boston Light 1 39 Boston Medical Library Associa- tion 95 Boston Museum 64, 69 Boston Natural History Museum. 69 Boston Normal School 78 Boston Public Library 88 Boston Symphony Orchestra 73 Boston Theater . .'. 65 Boston University 79 Botanical Garden 69 Bowdoin Square Theater 65 Boylston Club 73 Boys' Latin and English High School 76 Brewster's Island 139 Brighton District 33 3rookline 34 Bug Light 139 Bunker Hill 133 Bunker Hill Monument 32 PAGE Bunker Hill Museum 69 1 Burying Ground, Old 59 Bussey Institution 83 ; pAMBRIDGE ^.35, 132 ^ Carney Hospital no Castle Island 50, 135 Castle Square Theater. 65-, Cecilia Society 73 Cemeteries 38 Central Burying Ground 63 Central District 26 Chamber of Commerce 123 Charities and Hospitals 108 Charities, Associated m Charities, Private in Charlesbank, The 47 Charlestown District 31, 133 Chauncy Hall School 80 Chestnut Hill Reservoir 33 Chickering Hall 66 Christ Church 58 Churches, Protestant 99 Churches, Roman Catholic 104 City Hall 126 Clubs, Societies, and Military Organizations 112 Cohasset 146 Columbia Theater 66 Common, The 42 Commonwealth Avenue 131 Concord 37 Congregational Library 95 Copley Square 131 Copps Hill Burving Ground 60 Corinthian Yaciit Club 143 Country Club 35 Court House, The County 127 Custom House 122 DEER Island 137 Dorchester District 31 Downer Landing 144 Duxbury 147 EASTERN Point 144 Ea^stern Yacht Club 143 Educational Institutions 76 Elks, The Benevolent and Pro- tective Order of _ 118 Ericsson, Statue of Leif 132 (153) INDEX. 153 pagp: ■pANEUIL Hall 52, 70 ^ Fens, The 47 Ferries 17 Fine Arts, Museuin of 132 Forest Hills Cemetery 40 Fort Independence 135 Fort Warren 135 Fort Winthrop 135 Franklin Park. 48 Franklin, Statue of Benjamin 126 Free Masonry 118 Furnished Rooms 23 GARRISON, Statue of William Lloyd 131 General Theological Library 95 George's Island 137 Girls' Latin and High School 77 Gloucester 144 Glover, Statue of Gen. John 131 Government Building 121 Governor's Island 135 Grand Museum 66 Grand Opera House 66 Great Brewster Island 139 Greater Boston 34 Gallop's Island 138 "LTACKS and Cabs 12 J--*- Handel and Haydn Society. 73 Harbor, The 134 Harvard Bridge.. 132 Harvard Dental School 84 Harvard Medical School 84, 132 Harvard Musical Association 73 Harvard University 80 Hemenway Building 127 Hingham 145 Historic Genealogical Collection . 70 Hollis Street Theater 66 Horace Mann School for Deaf Mutes 78 Horticultural Hall 67 Hospitals 108 Hotels 17 Howard Athenaeum 66 Hull 145 Huntington Hall 66 TACOB Sleeper Hall 128 J Jamaica Park 48 TT'EITH'S New Theater 67 -■-^ King's Chapel 57 King's Chapel Burying Ground .. 59 Krino Grotto Museum and Gar- dens 70 T ECTURES 75 -'-' Leverett Park 47 Li brar i es 76, 87 Long Island 136 Lovell's Island 138 PAGE Lyceum Theater 67 Lynn 36, 141 A/TAGNOLIA 143 ^^ Manchester... 143 Mann, Statue of Horace 128 M arblehead 142 Marblehead Neck 142 Marine Park, The _.. 50 Marshfield 147 Masonic Temple ng Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association 117 Massachusetts College of Pharmacy 85 Massachusetts General Hospital.. 108 Massachusetts Historical Museum 70 Massachusetts Historical Society. 117 Massachusetts Historical Society Library 95 Massachusetts Homoeopathic Hos- pital. 109 Massachusetts Institute of Tech- nology _ -. .84, 132 Mechanics' Hall 68 Medford 36 Metropolitan Boston 34 Military Organizations 118 Milk Street 121 Moon Island 138 Mount Auburn Cemetery 38 Museums and Collections 69 Museum (Agassiz) of Compara- tive Zoology 70 Museum of Fine Arts 96, 132 Music and Musical Societies 72 Music Hall 67 INJAHANT. 140 -'-^ Nantasket Beach 146 Natural History Museum Library 95 Navy Yard 32 New England Conservatory of Music 85 New England Historic Genealog- ical Society 95, 117 Newspaper Row 125 Newton 36 Nix's Mate 136 Normal Art School 86 North End 25 North Shore, The 139 ODD Fellows 118 Old Corner Book Store, The. 57 Old Granary Burying Ground 62 Old South Meeting House, The... 56 Old South Museum, The 71 Old State House 54 Old State House Collection 71 Orpheus Musical Society 73 PALACE Theater. 68 Parks and Squares 42 154 INDEX. PAGE Park Square Station 9 Park Theater 68 Peabody Museum of American Archaeology and Ethnology.. 71 Pemberton Square 127 Perkins Institution and Massa- chusetts School for the Blind. 86 Plymouth 148 Plymouth Rock. 148 Pride's Crossing 143 Protestant Churches. 99 Protestant Episcopal Theological School 86 Public Garden 44 Public Library 131 Public Park System, The New 46 QUINCY Market, The 123 Quincy, Statue of Josiah 126 "DAILWAY Stations.. 7 -^^ Rainsford's Island... 138 Religious Organizations 106 Restaurants 21 Revere Beach 140 Roman Catholic Churches 104 Roxbury District, The 30 C^T. John's Boston Ecclesiastical ^ Seminary 87 Salem 36 Salem Willows 143 School Street... 126 School of Veterinary Medicine... 84 Schools, Private 87 Schools, Public 76 Scituate 147 Scollay Square 127 Sears Building 124 Seaside Resorts 139 Secret Orders.. 118 Social Law Library 96 Societies, Scientific and Learned. 117 Societies for Social Improvement 107 Society of Decorative Art 113 Soldiers' Monument, Charlestown 133 Somerville 36 South Boston 29 South Duxbury 147 PAGE South End 27 South Shore 144 Spectacle Island 138 Sports, Field 74 State House 128 State House Collection 72 State Library of Massachusetts .. r/i State Street 124 Steamers, Coastwise and River .. lu Steamers, Sound 9 Steamships, Trans-Atlantic 10 Stock Exchange 124 Street Car Routes 13 Street Car Transfers 15 Subway, The 26 Sunday in Boston 98 S wampscott 141 'yHEATERS and other Amuse- -*- ments 64 Thomas Park 29 Thompson's Island 136 Tremont Temple ft Tremont Theater. ( S Turnhalle, The ty UNION STATION (Northern)... 9 Union Station (Southern) 8 > WARREN Museum of Natural History 71 Washington Street 120 Webster, Statue of 128 Wellesley College 87 West End, The 27 West Manchester 143 West Roxbury District, The 33 Winthrop .. 140 Winthrop, Statue of John 127 Women's Educational and Indus- trial Union 108 \7'OUNG Men's Christian Asso- ^ elation 107 Young Men's Christian Union 107 • Young Men's Hebrew Association 107 Young Women's Christian Asso- ciation 107 TRAVEL JSTOTES. THE CLYDE LINE. No steamers sailing out of New York are more deservedly popular thau those of the Clyde Line to Cliarlestou and Jacksonville, Florida. One of these admirable steamshii)s may be taken every other day at 3 p. M., from the pier beneath the New York approach to the Brooklyn Bridge, and Charleston is reached about noon of the second day, and Jacksonville some twenty-four hours later, giving several hours for rambling about Charleston, while the steamer is disposing of its business at that always interesting port. The oceanic fleet of the Clyde Line now consists of half a dozen steamships, built of steel after the most approved methods, and officered, manned, and equipped in the most effective and comfortable manner. The three largest of these steamers, the Iroquois, ComancJie, and Algon- quin, measure about 4,000 tons each, and are new in construction and equipped and furnished in the most modern manner. The other three, Cherokee, Seminole, and Carih, are a little smaller, but otherwise just as good and comfortable, and the large number of habitual travelers upon this line confess that there is little choice among the whole fleet. Each steamer, besides all the known improvements in machinery, life-pro- tecting appliances, etc., is luxuriously furnished, provided with electric lights, bells, fans, etc., and has most of its staterooms opening upon the upper deck, while all are well ventilated. The fare served on this line has long had a high reputation for abundance and excellent cooking — none better is served in any ocean service — due not only to good stewardship, but the variety of marketing afforded by the weekly visits of each boat to both southern and northern points of supply Whik- the Clyde Line lays especial stress ui)on the carriage of travel- ers to and from the southern winter resorts (and it must not be for- gotten that the line of splendid St. Johns River l)oats, between Jack- sonville and Palatka, is managed by this company), it also has a large amount of general passenger business, as it sells tickets and checks baggage between New York and all interior points in the South and Southwest, by way either of Charleston or of Jacksonville. There are a large number of travelers who much prefer to make a part of their journey by water, and to these the Clyde Line offers a delightful sea voyage, rates cheaper than the railroad charges overland, and greater rest and comfort on the way. (155) 14 156 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. GREEN'S HOTEL, PHILADELPHIA. No hotel in Philadelphia is more widely or better known among busi- ness men and good livers generally, than Green's. It has outlived most of the competitors of its early days, and has survived them by intelli- gently keeping abreast of the demand of the times. It has stood so long in the now enlarged and commodious building at the corner of Chestnut and Eighth streets, that the locality hardly needs mention. It is an advantageous situation, being just midway between the wholesale commercial districts, nearer the river, and the retail shopping streets somewhat above that point. It is convenient also to the postoffice, Independence Hall, and several other historical points, many of the principal theaters, and to all the railway stations and points of depar- ^ ture for the seaside. This hotel now contains no less than 250 rooms, offering homelike \ quarters to ladies and families as well as to business men traveling alone. It is. fully supplied with elevators, fire-escapes, electric lights and bells, baths, and all other requirements of a modern hostelry. The management is entirely in accordance with the European plan, rooms renting at |1 and |1.50 a day, and meals offered in what the proprietor asserts to be the "finest restaurant in Philadelphia." This restaurant is one of the institutions of the Quaker City, long renowned, especially for its methods of serving oysters and game. It is of large size, handsomely adorned, able to give a simple, well-cooked lunch, or serve an elaborate dinner, and gives, by its host of well-trained colored waiters, an air of the old-time hospitality which has so lonj, attracted patrons who enjoy the best. HOTEL EMPIRE, NEW YORK. One of the newest and greatest of the modern and imposing hotel that have been erected in the upper part of the city of New York, o; late, is the Hotel Empire. It occupies an admirable central positioi on the Boulevard at 63d Street, near Central Park, and one accessible bi a great number of lines of transportation Stations of the Sixth anc Ninth Avenue Elevated railways are only a couple of blocks away; and electric cars pass the door, reaching all parts of the great town. At the same tmie the hotel is sufficiently removed from the roar and dust of Broadway or the business avenues to insure that quiet and good ail which is so desirable in one's abiding place. TRA VEL NO TES. 157 This hotel is of great size, imposing appearance, and fire-proof con- struction. Its arrangements and conveniences include the most recent improvements in hotel structure and equipment, and the art of the decorator has been lavishly employed. In this manner safety, sanita- tion, comfort, and beauty have combined to render the hotel so lux- urious that to call it "homelike " would be to compare it only with the palaces of the wealthiest. Guests are entertained at the Hotel Empire according to the American plan (which is preferred by the many fami- lies which make it an almost permanent home), or upon the European plan. For the accommodation of the latter class an elegant restaurant is maintained, which is regarded as among those of the highest class in the city in all respects. Nowhere can better cooking be found, or more skillful service. The experience of many fastidious travelers sustains the truth of these assertions. HOTEL LAFAYETTE, PHILADELPHIA. The Hotel Lafayette is one of the handsomest hotels, not only in Philadelphia, but in the whole country, and forms one of a group of the finest buildings in the metropolis of Pennsylvania. It is on the fashionable side of Broad Street and in the midst of that part of Philadelphia of greatest interest to tourists. The City Hall is only a block distant, both of the great railway terminals are near at hand, several of the best theaters are in the immediate neighborhood, and many of the leading churches of the city are within easy walking distance, while the Academy of Art, the great libraries, and the Museum of Natural Science are convenient of access. Probably no other hotel in Philadelphia is so admirably situated for pleasure and shopping visits to the city, while the best cars to Fairmount Park and other places of suburban interest pass the building. This fine hotel has no less than 350 rooms, which are rented on the European plan, at rates from $1.00 a day upward. All are neatly and comfort- ably furnished, and many exhibit the elaborateness and beauty usually associated with our notions of a palace. Of course, all the conveniences and appointments required of modern hotels are present, and the service is excellent. The ladies' parlors and gentlemen's writing-rooms on the southern side of the house are models of luxury and convenience. The restaurants attached to this great hotel are famous among travelers for their good cooking and elegant service. One lovely room looks out 158 HANDY GUIDE TO BOSTON. upon the gay promenade of Broad Street, and another is more retired. One of the features so popular as to draw a large amount of daily patronage from the professional and business men of taste whose offices \ abound in this neighborhood, is the regular luncheon served at noon in the restaurant-room at the corner of Broad and Sansom streets. This ■ luncheon is equally popular with guests. It would be hard to find I anywhere in American cities a more satisfactory home for the traveler and his wife than the Hotel Lafayette affords. UNITED STATES HOTEL, SARATOGA, N. Y. The United States Hotel at Saratoga Springs is so far-famed and so thoroughly popular that it hardly seems possible to say anything new regarding it. It is one of the institutions of America. Within its walls gather each year thousands of the representatives of the world of fashion, wealth, and refinement. It is in itself a great social capital, and is on a scale so grand that its very magnitude is impressive. Within a court formed by three sides of the hotel is one of the loveliest private gardens in America, filled with beautiful fountains, the rarest of shrubs, and no more brilliant scene is to be found anywhere than is here presented each evening, when the park and the surrounding piazzas are thronged with the gay concourse of guests. The finest music is rendered morn- ing, afternoon, and evening on the broad porches, and even a glimpse of the brilliant scenes for which the United States Hotel is famous will long linger in the mind. Its very immensity is a charm in itself, for there is in the great corridors, parlors, and dining rooms a sense of freedom from all restraint. It is like roaming about a great baronial palace, yourself a prince, with vistas, through the hallways and from the windows on the one side, of fairy-like gardens, with glistening fountains, and the air fragrant with the verdure, and on the other, the gay boulevards of the city of Sara- toga, alive with the handsome equipages and trappings of fashion and wealth. The cuisine of the United States is to the uninitiated a marvel, and to those accustomed to all the good things of life a joy and satis- faction. The markets of New York are drawn upon heavily each day for all the luxuries and delicacies of the season, and the fertile country about Saratoga for vegetables and the dairy products for which the region is famous. TRAVEL NOTES. 159 This hotel is one of the most perfectly appointed and beautiful in the world, and the visitor who spends a day, a month, or a season within its hospitable portals will ever recur with pleasure to the experience. THE YARMOUTH LINE. Steamers of the Yarmouth Steamship Co. sail from Lewis Wharf, Boston, for Yarmouth, N. S., at noon every Tuesday and Friday throughout the year. From July until October additional sailings are made from Boston at same hour on Monday and Thursday. Connec- tions are made next morning at Yarmouth l)y train and boat for all points in the Maritime Provinces. The boats of the Yarmouth Steam- ship Line go direct from Boston to Yarmouth, the nearest point in Nova Scotia. It is much the quickest and most convenient route. In fact, the people of this country owe a great debt of gratitude to the Yarmouth Steamship Line; for had it not been for this enterprising- company, the beauties of Nova Scotia would have been known to com- paratively few. For when it was necessary, in order to reach the land of Evangeline, to make a long, tedious, and expensive railroad tour through Maine and New Brunswick, it was far too inaccessible for the majority of people. But when, some few years ago, the Yarmouth Company built the beautiful steel steamer Yarmouth, which made the distance from Boston to Yarmouth in fourteen or fifteen hours, they brought this delightful land within reach of all; and when the further fact is taken into consideration that this trip, this ocean voyage to a foreign land and back, can be made for the trilling sum of $9, there is really no reason why every American should not be able to go abroad every summer. So popular did this steamship line become after the Yarmouth was placed in service, that two years ago another boat, larger, still swifter, and handsomer, was added to the line — the Boston. The Boston is a steel boat, built on the Clyde, measuring some 255 feet, of 1,700 tons burden, and having over 4,500 horse power. She is beau- tifully furnished in saloon, in cal)in, and stateroom. She has some eighty staterooms, and can accommodate 350 passengers. In fact, the Boston and the Yarmouth are by far the two handsomest coasters that leave Boston. Both are stanch, speedy, and strong, and admirably officered and manned. ISSUED RIALTO SERIES. THE ABBE GONSTANTIN BY LUDOVIC HALEVY. With 36 beautiful half-tone engravings from the original illustra- tions by Mme. Madeline Leniaire. Double Number, in Paper Cover, $1.00; Half Morocco, $2.00. For Sale at all Booksellers' and News Stands. This exquisitely beautiful story has won its way into the hearts of many people in many lands, and so long as unselfish love, modest nobility, and humble devotion to duty are regarded as admirable; so long as manly men and womanly women are regarded as lovable, — so long will this story be admired and loved. To the perfect touch of the author, Mme. Lemaire has added the interpretation of a sympathetic artist of fine taste and skill; and the book, as it now appears, embellished with her beautiful designs, is one of the finest things in literature of this class. Send for complete catalogue. RAND, McNALLY & CO. CHICAGO AND NEW YORK. ADVERTISEMENTS. American House, Boston, Mass., Berkshire Life Insurance Co. , The, Pittsfield, Mass Boston & Maine Raih'oad, .... Broadway Central Hotel, New York Cit3\ Fitchburg Railroad, The, .... Green's Hotel, Philadelphia, Pa., Hotel Empire, New York City, Hotel Lafayette, Philadelphia, Pa., Hotel Wellington, Washington, D. C, . Huyler's, Boston, Mass., .... Jamacha California Mineral Springs Co., Boston, Lincoln Spring Co., Boston, Mass., Macullar Parker Co., Boston, Mass., Maplewood, The, Pittsfield, Mass., Miller, Henry F. , Piano Co., Boston, Mass., New American, The, Pittsfield, Mass., . Portland Steamship Co. , .... Riggs House, Washington, D. C, . Seaboard Air Line, ...... United States Hotel, Boston, Mass., Wabash Railroad, The, ..... Wendell, The, Pittsfield, Mass., West Shore Railroad Yarmouth Steamship Co., Boston, Mass., Page xxiii Opposite page 37 Page vni XX xxii vi Opposite page 5 •' 69 Page vii Opposite page 47 Mass., " " 17 Page iii Opposite page 27 '* 49 " 43 '■ 49 Page i iv ii " XX xxi Opposite page 49 Page xix Opposite page 9 FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN. EUROPEAN PLAN. ?f Jy'^hiSt ol ?he^c?t?"be^-n-.^?. "f ^^^' '^^^"" ^^?^^^ '^ centrally located, and in the vi #»i*i#i#i*i* .^ULlNGTo & Si# (Formerly Welcker's.) AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN PLANS. Fifteenth St., near U. S. Treasury, Washington, D. C. European Plan, $i.oo per day and upward. First-class Restaurant and Cafe. American Plan, $3.00 per day and upward. Transient and permanent guests. L. M. FITCH, PROPRIETOR. ^mw Vll Seashore, Lake, and iviountain Resorts OF EASTERN AND NORTHERN NEW ENGLAND AND THE MARI- TIME PROVINCES REACHED BY THE R oston & l^aine SUMMER TOUR BOOK. CONTAINING LIST OF TOURS, HOTEL AND BOARDING HOUSE LIST. FREE. Illustrated descriptive pamphlets, containing maps, have been issued under the following titles, and will be mailed upon receipt of two-cent stamp . . . R ailroad . All Along Shore. Among the Mountains. Lakes and Streams. Fishing and Hunting. Merrimack Valley. Lake Memphremagog. The Monadnock Region. Lake Sunapee. Southwest New Hampshire. Southeast New Hampshire. Central Massachusetts. Valley of the Connecticut, and Northern Vermont. Portfolios : New England Lakes. Rivers of New England. Mountains of New Eng- land. I Will be sent \l/ upon receipt of y p~ six cents I ^ for each book. ADORCSS PASSENGtR DEPARTMENT, B. & M. R. R., Boston. D. J. FLANDERS, GENERAL PASSENGER AND TICKET AGENT. VIU Amfier Glints BY "AMBER" Being a second volume of the choicest literary work from the pen of the well-known Author of "Rosemary and Rue" SPECIALLY DESIGNED COVER BY W. W. DENSLOW 12mo, Cloth. Retail Price, $1.00 REGULAR DISCOUNT TO THE TRADE. Rand, McNally & Co., PUBLISHERS, CHICAGO NEW YORK. Maps and Guides TO All of the Principal Cities AND Every Country in the World. Road Maps FOR Driving, Wheeling, or Walking. Globes, Map Racks, Spring Map Rollers, Wall and Pocket Maps, Historical Maps, Classical, Biblical, Historical, Anatomical, Astronomical, Physical, and General Atlases of all kinds kept in stock. Address Rand, McNally & Co., IVlap Piiblistiers a.nci Engravers, 160 to 174 Adams Street, CHICAGO. 142 Fifth Avenue, NEW YORK. The Picturesque and ONLY All-Rail Route running Through Drawing-Room Cars between New York, Philadelphia and Bloomville, AND BETWEEN Washington, Baltimore, Philadelphia, Long Branch, New York, and Kingston, to Saratoga and Lake George, DURING THE SUMMER SEASON THE FAVORITE ROUTE OF BUSINESS AND PLEASURE TRAVEL BETWEEN EAST, WEST, NORTHWEST, AND SOUTHWEST. THE FAST EXPRESS TRAINS over this line have elegant Palace and Sleeping' Cars between New York, Boston, Kingston, Albany, Utica, Syracuse, Rochester, Buffalo, and Niagara Falls, to Hainil- ton, Toronto, Detroit, Cleveland, Chicago, and St. Louis, without change. For tickets, time tables, and full information apply to any Ticket Agent, WEST SHORE RAILROAD, or address C. E. LAMBERT, General Passenger Agent, Room 440 Grand Central Station. New York. XIX UNITED STATES HOTEL BOSTON. One Block from the New Southern Union Station, ... RECENTLY ENLARGED AND GREATLY IMPROVED Pleasure parties, ladies, and families visiting' Boston will tind the United States Hotel combining all the conveniences and substantial comforts of a pleasant Home, free alike from extravagant show or still more extravagant charges. BROADWAY CENTRAL HOTEL Nos. 667 to 677 Broadway, opposite Bond St., - - - NEW YORK. MIDWAY BETWEEN BATTERY AND CENTRAL PARK. By far the largest In Xew York, and one of the Great Hotels of the World. Location absolutely unequaled for business, sight-seeing, and pleasure. Homelike and comfortable, excellent table, prompt service, and moderate prices. Send for circulars and maps. Lnited States Hotel, Boston. TILLY HAYNES. Broadway Central Hotel, New York. XX THE WABASH RAILROAl Forms an important link with all lines From the EAST, via BUFFALO and SUSPENSION BRIDGE To the WEST, NORTHWEST and SOUTHWEST FOUR SOLID-VESTIBULED TRAINS, DAILY, FROM BUFFALO AND SUSPENSION BRIDGE to Detroit, Chicago, St. Louis, Hannibal, Quincy, Keokuk, Kansas City, and Omaha The Famous "Continental Limited," leaves New York, daily at i p. mi Boston, daily, 9.30 a. m.; arrives Detroit 7.00 a. m.; Chicago 3 p. m j St. Louis 6.52 p. m the following day, and Kansas City the secon| morning at 7.15. Palace Sleepingr Cars, Reclining Chair Cars (SEATS FREE), Dining Cars (Table d' Hote and a la Carte). The popular ROUTE via NIAGARA FALL' at which point a stopover from one to ten days allowed. Connections in UNION STATIONS at ALL JUNCTION POINTS. Through Sleeping Car Service in connectic with lines from NEW YORK and BOSTON DETROIT, CHICAGO, and ST. LOUIS. For information in regard to rates, time tables, or reservation of sleeping car space, apply to your nearest ticket agent or to H. B. MCCLELLAN, Genl Eastern Agent, 387 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. J. D. McBEATH, New England Passr AGE^ 5 STATE STREET, BOSTON, MASS. J. RAMSEY, JR., Vice- Pres. and Genl Manager, | i quis C. S. CRANE, Gen'L Pass-r and Ticket Agent, i xxi 15 16 .rnms^mnmrnmsim -GBmmoaw^aUt __i E • ■ rCHBURG Railroad IS THE ROUTE OF THE Continental CImitea From Boston to Chicago in Twenty -eight Hours and From Boston to St. Louis in Thirty- two Hours IT LEAVES BOSTON AT 9.30 A.M. DAILY EXCEPT SUNDAY. J. R. WATSON, I GENERAL PASSENGER AGENT, BOSTON, MASS. xxii GOING TO BOSTON TRY THE AMERICAN HOUy rC% Hanover St., near Scollay Square Statipn [I Situated in the business portion of the city, the house is convenient to the torical places of interest, shopping district, amusements, steamboat lines, e European Plan, $1.00 per day and upwards. Table d'Hote Dinner, 50 cen Special Breakfast, 40 cents. A C. JONES, MANAGER. C. A. JONES, PROPRIE' n .■ii ^ ^ ....■:.... t^ I ;( •1 . LIBRARY OF CONGRESS ! 1 ' i i 1 ' 1 014 065 652 5 # 'mH^^I 1 ^^^■■K ■1 m IMPi' ' ■' ' , ■♦ ^ '••'/. X. air* 1 *■ Z 1 w ";,'',!'./,. r^r 1 :':!;:'^::'.'v'-' ':, : I ;