F 316 
 . G65 
 Copy 1 
 
 FLORIDA DAYS 
 
 By VILMA M. GOODMAN 
 
FLORIDA DAYS 
 
 By 
 
 VILMA M. 
 GOODMAN 
 
 Copyrighted 1922, by 
 Vilma M. Goodman. 
 

 jg: 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 Page 
 
 CHAPTER /.—On the "Comanche" 5 
 
 CHAPTER //.—In Charleston 1 1 
 
 CHAPTER HI. — First Impressions on the East and West Coast 
 
 of Florida 14 
 
 CPIAPTER /r'.— Sail to Key West and Back to East Coast of 
 
 Florida ' 27 
 
 CHAPTER F— In West Palm Beach 32 
 
 CHAPTER VI . — Last and Lasting Impressions 44 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Page 
 
 Gronnds of the Hotel Ponce De Leon, St. Augustine, Florida.. 15 
 Orlando Country Club. — Orlando (jolf Links. — Golf Tournament, 
 
 ■March, 1922 1/ 
 
 Tampa Bay Hotel, Tampa, Florida 19 
 
 Cocoanut Palms and Bay of Biscayne. ]Miami, Florida 29 
 
 Cocoanut Palms, Cord Gables, near Miami 30 
 
 Bathing at Gus's Baths, Palm Beach, Florida 33 
 
 Jungle Trail, Palm Beach, Florida 1. 35 
 
 View of Palm Beach and West Palm Beach and Lake Worth, 
 
 (taken from above) ,36 
 
 Ridgewood Avenue, Daytona ( Spanish Moss) 45 
 
 •fes^« 
 
 
 ici.Auynoss 
 
 NOV -[: \\522 
 
V 
 
 PREFA CE. 
 
 ^yOME of my adventures and experiences 
 
 ij may be of value to tourists of limited 
 
 means ( like myself ) , who go to Florida 
 
 not only for recreation and change of climate, 
 
 but to gain strength and to rest. 
 
 I met ladies in Florida who were not in- 
 valids, and only needed pleasant surroundings 
 to be benefited by their trip South. 
 
 After one or two trying experiences, they 
 grew disheartened (disgusted I might say), 
 and without remaining long enough to get suf- 
 ficiently rested, after a long journey, booked 
 on the first train or steamer North. 
 
 I am indeed thankful that I had the cour- 
 age and strength to pack my trunk and change 
 my environment by traveling from the West 
 Coast to the East Coast of Florida. 
 
 Had I been very favorably impressed, or 
 perfectly satisfied and comfortable at my first 
 destination, I would not have seen the most 
 beautiful sections of Florida and could not 
 have had the pleasure of meeting the kind and 
 interesting people mentioned in my travels. 
 
Florida Days. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 On The "Comanche." 
 
 HAVING practically recovered my health, strength, 
 spirits and abounding energy in the Fall of 1918, 
 after a long siege of illness, my loyal and well- 
 meaning friends advised and even urged me to take a 
 trip — either to California or Florida, in order to escape 
 the rigors of our New York winter. 
 
 I delight in travel and sight-seeing, and, as the pre- 
 vious winter had been an unusually severe one, and as 
 my niece and nephew were quite grown up and did not 
 seem to need me, I was easily persuaded that a winter 
 spent under the radiance and warmth of Florida's trop- 
 ical sun would not only act as an elixir, but have a rejuv- 
 enating effect. Oh ! thou warm sun of the tropics ! To 
 'bask in thy sunshine, during the cold winter months, I 
 left my nearest of kin and friends, sacrificed many days 
 of comfort and rest, the Opera and theatre season in New 
 York (on passes), a stylish new suit and coat, warm furs, 
 and spent that money, and more, travelling and journey- 
 ing from the Atlantic Coast to the Gulf of Mexico and 
 back again in search of an earthly Paradise of beauty, 
 warmth and material comfort ! My you^ig nephew here 
 would say that there is no such "animal" or "triple 
 alliance" as the above. 
 
 An acquaintance who heard of my plans urged me 
 to go to A. . . . on the West Coast of Florida, where it 
 never rains (?). She knew that I was not in quest of 
 excitement, fashion or gayety, and insisted that I join a 
 
 friend of hers, a Mrs. X , who had built a bungalow 
 
 in the midst of an orange-grove there, and who, as a 
 special favor to her, would rent me her only spare room. 
 As this friend of hers intended to go by water, and about 
 the same time as I, she thought it an admirable plan 
 that we sail together, knowing my aversion to travelling 
 or living alone. 
 
This all sounded very attractive and tempting to me 
 and I consented, and made all the arrangements for both, 
 as I was not an invalid and only needed a few more 
 months of outdoor life. I thought it best to rest a few 
 weeks in Charleston (one of the Clyde Line ports) on 
 my way, and visit the daughter of a very talented and 
 charming lady, an old friend, whom I had known from 
 childhood, and then join Mrs. X in A later. 
 
 I am neither well-to-do nor a downright beggar, and 
 have a small (regular) income which would enable me 
 to live modestly, were it not for the tremendous increase 
 of living expenses since the terrible War. I also have a 
 very tiny sum safely put away, and decided to draw some 
 money, in order to enable me to do a little sight-seeing 
 in Florida, and to defray all the extra expense of travel. 
 For I had Mark Twain's words always before me. He 
 told a friend that he visited Florida for rest and change; 
 and added that the railroads got all his change, and the 
 hotel-keepers got the rest. I was, therefore, well-posted 
 and prepared for the worst. 
 
 Mrs. X and I sailed on the "Comanche," on 
 
 November 12th, the day after the Armistice was signed. 
 I had only a few hour's time to pack my limited 
 and unnecessary paraphernalia, or impedimenta, in two 
 large suit-cases, and when I landed on the pier with all 
 my baggage, including the borrowed steamer-rug (mine 
 having been stolen), my umbrella, coat-hangers and 
 large, heavy work-bag, I certainly must have presented 
 a pretty picture ; the only thing lacking to have made It 
 even more picturesque being the traditional bird-cage 
 and canary. 
 
 I flattered myself that I was quite a sailor and 
 experienced traveller, because I had once crossed the 
 Atlantic in August without mlissing a meal. This was 
 November, however, and after locating our cabin, which 
 proved to be a very small, stuffy, and noisy one, next 
 to Social Hall, and directly above the pantry, I was a bit 
 disheartened. Instead of sailing at 12 noon, as sched- 
 uled, we left the pier at 8 P. M. It was impossible to 
 get enough coal and other very necessary things on board 
 at the required time, as everyone had celebrated the sign- 
 ing of the Armistice not wisely but too well the day 
 before. 
 
 — 6 — 
 
I remained on deck till about ten that night, and 
 would have stayed out later, for the cabin was very hot, 
 and I could find no way of turning off the steam, and 
 it was impossible to get a deck-hand or room-steward to 
 do it. Fortunately, our gallant Captain Chichester 
 passed by, the very minute I told my cabin-mate, through 
 the open window, that "I was afraid to venture into the 
 cabin, because of the infernal heat."' He stopped to make 
 inquiries, and then very kindly went into the cabin, 
 stooped down and turned off the steam. I then ventured 
 into my "Turkish room" a few minutes later, and climbed 
 to the perilous upper berth without the assistance of a 
 ladder. I was quite dizzy when I got up to my roost, 
 and made my preparations to sleep. Only those who 
 have had the misfortune to sleep in a stuffy upper berth 
 with a person who is afraid of fresh air and open 
 windows in the berth below can fully sympathize 
 with me. 
 
 A few minutes after I retired, the steamer began to 
 pitch and toss, and all the various kinds of dishes in the 
 pantry below began to dance and jig and break and 
 smash by thousands, and the door opening into Social 
 Hall was banged every few minutes by the passengers 
 going in and out, making a harmonious (?) accompani- 
 ment to the horrors of the pantry below us. I realized 
 that sleep was out of the question, and that the ticket 
 agent had presented me with the "juiciest little lime" 
 on board. 
 
 I was seasick all night, and could not fall asleep. 
 In the middle of the night there was a terrible crash, 
 and I was positive that the steamer had collided with 
 another vessel and that we were drifting in mid-ocean. 
 I'll not attempt to describe the shock, fright and sensa- 
 tion, for I could not hear the engine and machinery work- 
 ing, or feel the vibration of the propellers; and before 
 the crash, the engine and propeller seemed to be working 
 "overtime." After a while, I did not care how soon the 
 end would come, I was so seasick. I had reached the 
 third stage of seasickness; and here, for the benefit of 
 those who do not know the three stages of seasickness, 
 I shall mention them in order (according to Mark 
 Twain). The first symptom is: "You are afraid you'll 
 die"; and the second is: "You hope you'll die"; and the 
 third is: "You are afraid you'll never die." For hours 
 
 — 7 — 
 
I lay and tossed in this desperate condition, but felt a 
 little relieved after sunrise. The Comanche is the oldest 
 of the Clyde Line Steamers, I believe, and that is why 
 the voyage was rough, 
 
 I made many unsuccessful attempts to get down to 
 dress, and at last landed on the floor in a heap. I slipped 
 a dark, heavy dress on, but could not hook it, and. partly 
 raising myself to leach for my tooth-powder, spilt the 
 entire contents over my dark dress and over all the 
 dark clothes I possessed, including my warm coat, which 
 I was compelled to wear all the time on deck. I tried 
 but could not brush the w^hite powder off, and I looked 
 as if I had been dipped into a barrel of flour. I could 
 not button my shoes, and every few minutes, while trying 
 to hook my clothes. Td fall in a heap. 
 
 At last I dragged my weary and bruised body on 
 
 deck, and sent a stewardess to Mrs. X , who was also 
 
 sick and miserable. Although it was very stormy and 
 cold, and I was horribly ill, I was determined to remain 
 out-doors and, as soon as I could muster up enough 
 courage and stiength to speak to the Captain, who seemed 
 very kind, and ask him to change our cabin if possible, 
 I did so later. 
 
 Thinking that a cup of hot coffee would brace me 
 up a bit and stop the nausea, I tried to grope my way 
 down to the dining-room. 
 
 It was breakfast time and the ship crowded, but 
 there was no mad rush for breakfast. I descended the 
 steps, or rather, I was hurled down, and the tall, broad- 
 shouldered head-waiter caught me and five other brave 
 victims at the foot of the stairs. He caught me before 
 much damage was done, and escorted me and the rest 
 of the assemblage to our secure seats. I drank my black 
 coffee in one gulp, for I was afraid that the breakfast 
 of the gentleman opposite would not have a stimulating 
 effect upon me, and rushed up the stairs, to avoid further 
 mishaps. 
 
 I reached the deck feeling dizzy, sank into my chair, 
 and tried to cover myself with my heavy rug. I could 
 not hold up my head, but I remained there about half an 
 hour, when a huge wave tipped the slip, and I found 
 myself on the other side of the deck, sprawling on the 
 ikor, chair and all. 
 
I was so stunned that I could not make any attempt 
 to rise, but two young Lieutenants, fellow-passengers, 
 promptly came to my rescue and picked me up with my 
 scattered belongings, God bless them. I then found a 
 more sheltered place on deck, and stayed there all morn- 
 ing. Just before noon, the Captain came with the Chief 
 Steward and informed me that there was just one vac- 
 ancy on board, a very desirable cabin, — "did we care to 
 look at it before deciding to move?" Ill as I was. I went, 
 
 I saw, and decided to move at once. Mrs. X was 
 
 not so willing to move, fearing she would have to pay 
 more for the better cabin. I assured her and re-assured 
 her that we would not, and at last, having succeeded in 
 convincing her, I folded and packed her belongings care- 
 fully, threw mine into a basket and, with the assistance 
 of our able-bodied Steward, moved in great 'state" to 
 Cabin No. 7. 
 
 Mrs. X was still seasick, and I helped her dress, 
 
 etc., although I had to go out for fresh air and relief 
 eveiy few minutes. We had plenty of air, space, and 
 perfect quiet in the cabin to which we removed, and I 
 shall always be grateful to the Captain for this and many 
 other acts of kindness. 
 
 I slept a little the following night, and the next day 
 could sit up straight and eat an orange and drink coffee. 
 I became acquainted with my fellow-passengers, some of 
 whom proved both interesting and agreeable. The 
 weather became milder and clearer, and I began to enjoy 
 thoioughly the hours spent on deck, away from my 
 
 room-mate, Mrs. X . I had sent the good Stewardess 
 
 to take care of her, when I was too ill to be of any 
 
 assistance. I had met Mrs. X twice before sailing. 
 
 and I must admit that she had not made a very favorable 
 impression. And it's more than likely that I had not 
 impressed her favorably, either. My first impression of 
 people and places is, like all women's, nine times out of ten 
 the correct one ; but I persist in giving people the benefit 
 of the doubt. I'm like the poor, trusting woman who 
 married a man because she felt so very, very sorry for 
 him, and, after she married him, she felt sorry for her- 
 self, forever after. I neither liked Mrs. X 's sharp 
 
 face nor her sharp, harsh voice, though I'll admit she 
 had nice new teeth and hair. Her conversation — to say 
 the least — was not instructive nor interesting. She saw 
 
 — 9 
 
that the Captain bad been most kind and courteous, and 
 she promptly tried to poison my mind against him, and 
 to convince me that all Sea-Captains and Officers are 
 villains and gay deceivers, making love to every woman 
 on board the ship, while their neglected wives suffer and 
 pine at home. This exquisite sentiment was repeated 
 every few minutes for my special benefit. I at first tried 
 to reason with her to the effect that there are exceptions 
 to every rule, but then she'd start all over again. One 
 of her pet subjects was the wickedness and corruption 
 of the New York Four Hundred and millionaires in 
 general. I again tried to reason with her, although I do 
 not claim to be an authority on the subject, as my experi- 
 ence with either is limited, — that human nature is the 
 same the world over, and that it's just possible that we 
 in their position would be worse than they. This would 
 start her afresh, and I decided to make myself ''very 
 scarce," so I kept "a-moving" and dodging. 
 
 She told me that most of her time in Florida was 
 spent away from home, as she was in the real estate 
 business; and as I expected to spend all my time out- 
 doors, in the Park or on the beach, I thought there would 
 be fewer opportunities to listen to her elevating and 
 enlightening discussions of her pet subjects and theories, 
 and for arguments or friction. 
 
 The last day on the ocean Was delightfully warm 
 and clear, and I felt much better and stronger, but I had 
 no appetite and lived on ^^ ^k coffee, crackers and 
 oranges until I landed, v' "y baggage, in Charleston 
 
 on the morning of the " .i. 
 
 — 10 — 
 
A 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 In Charleston. 
 
 FTER an hour's racing around and waiting, I at 
 last procured a hack (this at first seeming a hope- 
 less task) and I arrived at the house of Mrs. L 
 
 very warm, tired and hungry, but hopeful. She lived 
 in a very large, tastefully furnished house, and let a 
 few rooms — not for profit, she said, but only for con- 
 venience. And here I cannot help stating very emphat- 
 ically that it proved to be not at all for the convenience 
 of the roomers or hoarders. I was welcomed and made 
 quite comfortable in a large airy room, with nothing to 
 disturb my slumbers or day dreams, except six or seven 
 roosters (all very early risers) who were not members 
 of the six-hour-a-day Labor Union, and who crowed day 
 and night. I arrived about ten, and rested in my room 
 until one, expecting to be called down to lunch. 
 
 Feeling not only hungry but weak, I went down 
 
 after one o'clock, and an aunt of Mrs. L , who lived 
 
 with her, politely informed me that the cook was sick, 
 and that her niece had just 'phoned, proposing that we 
 go down to her tea-room for lunch, and, in fact, that we 
 
 go there every day at noon. Mrs. L , by the way, 
 
 was the most enterprising an^ strenuous Charlestonian 
 I've ever met (or ever hope to lAeet). 
 
 We rode down in ten minutes in her cousin's auto, 
 and there was such a great rush of six people that we 
 could not find seats, and had to wait an hour before we 
 sat down. I was getting fainter every moment, and told 
 this blue-blooded aristocrat of the South who condes- 
 cended to be a business woman that I had been sea-sick, 
 had not eaten a "square" meal for three whole days, and 
 would be obliged to her if she'd just serve me a cup of 
 coffee before I'd collapse. 
 
 After waiting another half-hour, I was placed at 
 the family table and was served soup, a dainty pimento- 
 and-cheese sandwich, coffee, and two hard cookies (left- 
 overs), while those at the next table were eating temp- 
 
 — 11 — 
 
ting salads and chocolate layer cake. I wonder whether 
 this can be the Southern hospitality we hear and read 
 so much about? I had agreed to pay $15.00 a week for 
 room and board, because I wished to be independent. 
 Unfortunately, I'm both sensitive and proud, and my 
 reception and first meal did not quite come up to my 
 expectations. 
 
 As soon as I finished my lunch, I got up and went 
 
 up to Mrs. L at her desk and paid her the $15.00 in 
 
 advance. I wanted it understood from the very start 
 that I did not wish to "graft." 
 
 She thanked me and asked me all about my trip. 
 I repeated my tale of woe, and told her how the Captain 
 had "saved" my life, and laughingly related in the pres- 
 ence of some of her friends that he said I could see all 
 of Charleston in three hours, and that no house had been 
 erected in Charleston for the past fifty years. She flared 
 up — nay — exploded as if a "U" boat bomb had struck 
 her, and what she didn't say about the innocent Captain, 
 in her emotional, Leslie Carter style, was not worth 
 saying. I tried to quiet her by saying that he was only 
 jesting, but she kept on raging and said she'd report 
 him to the Clyde Line officials and to the Governor for 
 making disparaging remarks about one of the Clyde Line 
 ports. I was at first very much worried about this. 
 I let her storm and rage and realized I was a fool to have 
 paid her the $15.00 in advance, and I then decided that 
 one week of Charleston was, in the language of our well- 
 known comedian, Sam Bernard, "sufficiency." 
 
 Some of the meals during that long and tiresome week 
 were much better, and some worse, than the memorable 
 first. I purchased milk cake, crackers and fruit in order 
 not to lose weight and acquire too fashionable a figure. 
 
 On Sunday no dinner was cooked because Mrs. L 
 
 was baking her Christmas cake (on November 17th). 
 She coolly informed me that she never prepared dinner 
 on Sunday and that everyone went to the ice box at noon 
 and just helped himself. I did not look or act over- 
 pleased at the announcement ; and quietly said that that 
 might be a splendid plan, if she had something else 
 besides my own grape-fruit and a small chunk of ice in 
 the refrigerator. She then cooked soup of which she 
 did not partake. 
 
 — 12 
 
She and her relatives told me that she was very- 
 much 'run dov^n" and not v^ell. I thought it my duty 
 to tell hei that she could not expect to get stronger unless 
 she ate regular meais and led a less strenuous life. It 
 was like talking to the wall, and I soon gave it up; yet, 
 there was no need for her to work or fuss so much, or 
 to do anything at all. 
 
 She had a cold the following day and was in bed, 
 and I went down to the lunch room the next two days 
 to help her thin, delicate and tired-looking assistant. 
 I'hings ran very much more smoothly, I thought, than 
 when the propxietress engineered, and I was pronounced 
 a good cashier as well as expert dish-washer. It was 
 positively less strenuous than helping to nurse her; for 
 she never would do as the doctor or anyone else told her. 
 On Tuesday and Wednesday, at about 6:30 P. M., the 
 mmute when the family, consisting of an aunt, cousin 
 and elderly gentleman, an old friend of her father, the 
 tiied assistant who lived there, and I sat down to eat, 
 she became hysterical, so that each one's meal was left 
 untouched. I was not very polite on Wednesday, and 
 did not wait until everyone was served and had had just 
 two mouthfuls when the aunt was called, and every one 
 of us rushed up to her room to rub her hands, etc., etc. 
 It seemed strange, however, that both days she'd receive 
 every caller in her room and talk all day, and just at 
 6 :30 P. M., as soon as the tired and hungry Coxy's Army 
 sat down, there would be an immediate call to the front, 
 and the dining-room promptly ''evacuated" until about 
 nine, when everyone's dinner was cold and not fit to 
 eat. Of course, I felt sorry for her, but I felt more sorry 
 for the others, and most sorry for myself. I feared that, 
 if I remained there much longer, I'd either become ill or 
 have a nervous breakdown, and I rang up the Clyde Line 
 office and booked on the next outgoing steamer for 
 Jacksonville. 
 
 On Friday, the 22nd, I ascended the stairway with 
 all my "duds" to the wharf, which seemed like an endless 
 pilgrimage to the top of our Woolworth Building. A very 
 polite gentleman, accompanied by his wife, came to my 
 assistance and insisted on carrying my heavy baggage. 
 I met these kind people, Mr. and Mrs. Francis, later in 
 West Palm Beach. 
 
 13 — 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 First Impressions on the East Coast of Florida 
 and West Coast. 
 
 1 SPENT a very pleasant day on board the "Huron," 
 and it was with regret that I landed in Jacksonville 
 and saw the last of these agreeable people. I re- 
 mained on deck all morning to get the first glimpse of 
 Florida, and I must say that the flat, bare land — with 
 here and there a few stunted trees and shanties — did not 
 make a very striking impression. The gray, threatening 
 sky overhead and a chill in the air did not inspire me 
 to sing or even hum Mignon's beautiful aria, "Dost 
 Thou Know That Fair Land Where The Orange Flowers 
 Bloom; Where The Trees Are Like Gold?" etc. I did not 
 despair, however, as I knew that oranges do not grow 
 profusely in Northern Florida, and the St. Johns River 
 is only worth looking at a few miles below Jacksonville. 
 A number of us went to a small, unpretentious hotel 
 in this hustling, modern city, and after resting two days 
 (while it poured) I went to a pleasant acquaintance in 
 St. Augustine, who lives in a very beautiful house. Dur- 
 ing the few hours of sunshine of the two days spent there, 
 I had a glimpse of the oldest, quaintest streets and Fort 
 in the United States, as well as the monster modern hotels 
 Ponce de Leon and Alcazar, etc., and other imposing new 
 buildings, as well as enjoyed seeing the beautiful drives 
 and having the first glimpse of orange groves and semi- 
 tropical plants and flowers. 
 
 I then went to Palatka by bus, and then up the St. 
 Johns River by boat. The stars came out just as the 
 "Osceola" left her landing. And as I looked down oii 
 the river, I saw a beautiful reflection of all the brilliant 
 stars. That v^s a cheerful sight to me, for I had not 
 seen a single star for almost a week. The air was mild, 
 and as we glided up the river, the trees, covered with 
 long gray moss, by star-light looked like mysterious gray 
 ghosts. 
 
 — 14 
 
15 — 
 
I later joined the happy group of passengers whom 
 jolly Captain Lund was entertaining with reminiscences 
 and jokes, while gazing at sky and river. He adopted me 
 at once as one of the family, and I felt in a few minutes 
 as much at home as those passengers who had got on 
 early in the morning at Jacksonville. A kinder, wittier 
 and more jovial and hospitable man I have never met; 
 and that was everyone's verdict on board. How we 
 regretted that our delightful sail would soon end. 
 
 Everyone who comes to Florida should sail on the 
 "Osceola" up the St. Johns River, because of the beauty 
 of this winding river and the jolly time on board. One 
 of the gentlemen played a guitar and the genial Captain 
 sang for us. This was on Thanksgiving morning, and 
 if he should ever give up his position as Captain, I'm 
 positive he could command and earn a large salary as a 
 singing comedian. I got on at Palatka at about 8 P. M. 
 on November 27th and landed at Sanford the next day at 
 noon. The weather was fair. 
 
 I then drove about twenty-five miles (by bus) to 
 Orlando, a small Garden of Eden, where I rested only 
 a day at the Empire Hotel. I should have spent part of 
 the winter there, but I had foolishly given my word to 
 
 Mrs. X , and also made an appointment with Miss 
 
 B and set a date. I cannot say enough in praise of 
 
 Mrs., Miss and Mr. MacGruder of the Empire Hotel. They 
 were most considerate and kind, and it was the only 
 hotel in Florida where I got more than I bargained for. 
 I engaged, at a moderate price, a room with running 
 water, but Mrs.MacGruder, hearing that I was very warm 
 and dusty, instructed her colored boy to connect the ad- 
 joining bathroom for my private use, when she sent him 
 with me to show me my room. As soon as I refreshed 
 myself in cold water and ate something, I went out sight- 
 seeing. I very soon got tired walking, but what I saw 
 proved to be so beautiful that I wanted to see much more, 
 so I hired an auto and spent hours driving in this won- 
 derful land of oranges and flowers. 
 
 Mere words cannot adequately describe the beauty 
 of the well-kept orange and grape-fruit groves, the lakes 
 and parks and magnificent homes and estates and hotels 
 in and around Orlando and Winterpark, five miles 
 distant. How I feasted my tired but hungry eyes on 
 those perfect oranges, grape-fruit, etc. Such large clus- 
 
 — 16 
 
17 
 
ters of big" oranges and lemons and heavy grape-fruit 
 nestling against the rich, dark-green leaves. And the 
 trees are much larger, with larger branches, than else- 
 where in Florida. 
 
 I disliked leaving this beauty-spot the next morning 
 in order to keep an unimportant appointment with a lady 
 
 in A , but duty seemed to call. I rose about five and 
 
 left on the Tampa bus at 7 A. M., arriving in Tampa at 
 12:30, almost broiled to a "frazzle" in the front seat, by 
 the combined efforts of the engine and a burning, wel- 
 come sun. How I regretted that I did not tiavel on the 
 Atlantic Coast Line then. 
 
 Travelling by bus enabled me to go almost all the 
 way through the orange belt of Florida, as well as the 
 lake region, and while I saw many pretty lakes and very 
 large groves, the latter could not compare in beauty and 
 quality with those of Orlando and Winterpark. 
 
 The heat in Tampa one cannot describe; one can 
 only feel. I almost collapsed, but after bathing my 
 temples and face in ice water, I went to the top of the 
 Hillsboro Hotel to lunch and to view the city. After 
 lunch, a few hours on the shady balcony revived me, and 
 at 4:45 P. M. railroad time I left by boat and arrived 
 
 in A at 7:30 P. M., and then began the search for 
 
 the street car to take me to the bungalow of Mrs. X . 
 
 She had told me that it was about a mile out, very near 
 a car line. I got on the car at 7:45 P. M. and handed 
 the conductor my fare and the address, asking him to 
 let me off when he reached the street. He looked at me, 
 then at my baggage, and sorrowfully shook his head. 
 "That street, the last one on this line, is not cut through 
 on this side, (they call this the Jungle), and you could 
 never find it in the dark, and you see it's been raining 
 (I saw all right) and walking several blocks you'd get 
 very wet at the crossings." I looked around. Every- 
 thing was dark and dismal in this Jungle. I shuddered, 
 and when the car made its final stop, I investigated 
 further, but, at the Conductor's sensible suggestion, rode 
 back to town and hired an auto to take me to my des- 
 tination. After more than thirty minutes' riding back 
 and forth, through rivers of water, I at last found the 
 
 house and Mrs. X at home. She was sorry for me, 
 
 that I had such difficulty to find her. Her quiet husband 
 seemed very kind and they asked me whether I had had 
 
 18 — 
 
— 19 — 
 
anything to eat. I told them I had had a sandwich 
 and coffee on the boat, and that I was very, very tired, 
 warm and sleepy. She insisted that I eat sometning at 
 once. 
 
 Mrs. X said that she'd do the best she could for 
 
 me, but the freight from New York had not yet arrived, 
 and the best she could offer me was a lounge. In my 
 sleeping-room one window had a heavy curtain composed 
 of layers of newspapers to keep out all drafts, (incid- 
 entally all the fiesh air, too) and the smaller window 
 was only partly open. It was one of those tropical nights 
 when not a leaf stirred, and the heat and humidity, to- 
 gether with my weariness, nearly prostrated me. The 
 only other piece of furniture in my "sweat-room" was 
 a chair, and I threw off my clothes, wet from perspira- 
 tion, put on a kimono and was ushered into the dark, 
 incompleted bath-room, carrying with me the dismal 
 lamp from my room. There was neither light nor water 
 connection, and pouring over me the tepid water, stand- 
 ing in the warm room, neither cooled nor refreshed me, 
 but I felt a little cleaner and went back to my luxurious 
 "boudoir" to sleep. 
 
 If ever any woman slept or tried to sleep on some- 
 thing much worse than a trench-bed, that woman was I. 
 I shall not try to describe the tortures of that night. It 
 was daylight when I fell asleep, and before seven o'clock 
 I was awakened by the clarion voice of Mrs. X giv- 
 ing directions to her meek husband, who had the great 
 misfortune to be very hard of hearing. I had a great 
 deal of sympathy for the unfortunate man, but the longer 
 I knew his wife, the more certain I was that in his case 
 it was a blessing in disguise to only hear a fraction of 
 that amiable lady's conversation and faultfinding, and 
 that in a minor key. I doubt whether he fully appreci- 
 ated how much he had to be thankful for. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. X insisted that I share their 
 
 breakfast, also dinner, as Mrs. X had doubts whether 
 
 I could find my way to the nearest lunch-room, even in 
 the day-time, and I was not yet thoroughly equipped for 
 light-housekeeping. I was compelled to accept their kind 
 offer. She served me the best she had. 
 
 Her good, patient husband picked oranges and grape- 
 fruit and insisted I should help myself freely. I said I 
 would gladly if he would let me pay for them, as they 
 
 - 20 
 
only accepted the money for the room (which was very 
 little, I admit), but, considering the size, bareness, lack 
 of light and ventilation and that I had to pump water 
 outside to drink and wash in and carry it in every few 
 minutes, having no basin or pitcher, it was dear at any 
 price. 
 
 Before breakfast, I had a few minutes' time to go 
 out and investigate. Yes, there were a number of orange 
 and grape-fruit trees around the house, and there was an 
 empty house almost across the street, and two more 
 empty ones on the next street, but the nearest house 
 inhabited was two blocks away. In the evening, I dis- 
 covered that there was not a single light on the streets 
 within half a mile of the house. Pleasant prospect of 
 getting home alone from town after dark; or to be left 
 alone in the house evenings, with robberies committed 
 in the heart of the town that very week. 
 
 They insisted that I wait until the afternoon, 
 when she and her husband would safely pilot me to town 
 and to the hotel where my steamer acquaintance, Miss 
 B , lived, with whom I had foolishly made an appoint- 
 ment a week previous for 2 P. M. that day (which appo- 
 intment was the cause of my leaving Orlando much 
 sooner than I desired). 
 
 Miss B was an elderly, educated woman, with 
 
 beautiful gray hair and very winning manner. She wel- 
 comed me warmly, and, after a few minutes' chat, in- 
 sisted that I look at houses, apartments, rooms, etc., 
 which she had looked at, one of which she expected to 
 share with me. I had a very hard time to convince her 
 that I did not come to Florida to make money renting 
 a house and letting rooms, and worrying. I had come 
 for rest and recreation. If she had known that I was 
 thoroughly disgusted vnth my Jungle-room, it would 
 have been hard for me to escape. She was very hospit- 
 able, however, and I spent a very pleasant afternoon and 
 evening. 
 
 The next few days were spent walking to town and 
 back, (when it was pouring), in order to keep warm ; and 
 the miserable nights on the hard lounge, where some- 
 times I managed to sleep a few hours. I forgot to men- 
 tion that the day after my arrival in A the thermo- 
 
 — 21 — 
 
meter took a verj^ sudden drop ,and my! it was "some" 
 cold in Florida for a week. 
 
 I had a $25.00 money-order in my possession which 
 I wanted to cash at the Post Office and, for the purpose 
 of identification, I took my savings-bankbook with me, 
 as well as my Military (State) Census card, and a card 
 addressed to me by a friend that very week from Tan- 
 
 nersville, N. Y., in care of Mrs. X at A . I cashed 
 
 the money-order upon presenting all my credentials and 
 went to a cafeteria to lunch, after which I sat on a bench 
 
 of the principal business street waiting for Miss B , 
 
 my steamer acquaintance, to join me for an afternoon's 
 outing. I had half an hour's time and got up to walk up 
 and down the street, and when I returned to the place of 
 meeting, I missed my work-bag, containing the pass- 
 book, cards, etc., mentioned. 
 
 I hurried back to the cafeteria and searched every- 
 where but could not find the bag. I then went to the 
 Board of Trade and related my sad story; and the cool, 
 unsympathetic gentleman there suggested that I notify 
 my Bank in New York and advertise in the next issue 
 of the local daily paper. 
 
 I did both, but was, naturally, quite upset. I wrote 
 a personal letter to the Deputy Comptroller of the Bank, 
 Mr. Brennan, whom I knew to be a very kind and 
 
 conscientious man. I met Miss B and we carried out 
 
 the afternoon's program, but naturally I did not derive 
 much pleasure that day. 
 
 I returned to my room, and was told that the 
 bag had not been returned. I figured that an honest 
 and well-meaning person, seeing my name and address 
 
 in care of Mrs. X , could easily have located her in 
 
 the telephone book and, within less than an hour, have 
 informed her or me, and thereby relieved me of great 
 anxiety. 
 
 I stayed around the house the following morning 
 until almost afternoon, expecting to hear about my bag, 
 when I rode to town to lunch and to take out books from 
 the Circulating Library. I chatted with the Librarian 
 and naturally mentioned to her what was uppermost in 
 my mind — the loss of my workbag, etc. She suggested 
 that I report the matter to the Police Department. I went 
 there directly, but there was "nobody home." 
 
 — 22 — 
 
I had something to eat and returned to the Police 
 Department Office and again there was "nobody home." 
 An hour later I returned and addressed one of two 
 officers or detectives (although they did not look it). 
 I described the bag and its contents and was asked my 
 name. I promptly told him and was informed that it 
 had been returned a few minutes before. I was delighted 
 and asked this man who had found it, and he claimed 
 he did not know, (which I did not believe). But he said: 
 "Somebody found it in front of a certain Real Estate 
 office, and took it in," which was impossible, as I had 
 not been off Main Street with the bag or without it. 
 
 I was so thankful for having recovered the bag that 
 I did not stop to argue the matter, and thanked him 
 again before leaving. Accidentally, I looked at the other 
 man, and if his look of hate could have killed, I would 
 have been a "dead one." I have seen a few hard 
 faces, but not one to equal his. 
 
 I then quickly returned to my Jungle and asked Mrs. 
 
 X about my bag. She shouted, but not joyously: 
 
 "Yes, it's here, but do you know what you have in that 
 bag?" She said that as if I had a large bomb or secret 
 plans and papers betraying my country to Kaiser Bill 
 hidden in it. I promptly told her the entire contents. 
 She grinned, and said: "Well, there's a piece of paper 
 with some writing on it that the police found. You 
 better get it and read it. He gave me an awful laying 
 out and he came in your room and looked all around." 
 (There was not much to see there). 
 
 "I'm sorry you had any unpleasantness, but what 
 business did he have in my room?" I inquired. 
 
 "Well, read the piece of paper I seen in your bag 
 that he showed me," she sarcastically replied. 
 
 I searched my bag carefully and found, besides the 
 articles mentioned, a crumpled bit of paper on which I 
 had begun to write a poem in Charleston. I had to burst 
 into something after the Sunday dinner before men- 
 tioned. I had controlled myself sternly not to burst into 
 a rage, so I had let off a bit of steam by means of the 
 following harmless poetic effusion. As a joke, I wished 
 to send a copy to my friends at home to sort of console 
 them for not having the good fortune to go South. I 
 
 — 23 — 
 
apologize for both rhyme and rhytm (but not for the 
 theme) : 
 
 ''All my friends notv envy me 
 
 Because I'm iravelling South; 
 
 Yet, I'm an object of pity 
 
 For I've had little in my mouth 
 
 That can be called real food. 
 
 My pockets too are empty — 
 
 And I'm just beginning to brood, 
 
 Because'^ 
 
 And here the fickle muse must have left me, or I 
 was suddenly disturbed; at any rate, I had proceeded 
 no further, and had never given it another thought. In 
 my desperate moments I burst into song or poetry. Some 
 of my attempts possess much greater merit, but I do not 
 take my poems very seriously, nor does anyone else. 
 Everyone (including myself) considers it a harmless 
 pastime. 
 
 Mrs. X continued her tirade, and added: 
 
 "The detective come here to see if you was out of 
 your mind brooding and thinking to commit suicide 
 because you have no money." 
 
 I was, at first, speechless, then almost shouted : 
 
 "Couldn't the idiot see that I have a bank balance 
 large enough to carry me through two winters, even in 
 Florida, living modestly and economically as I do?" 
 
 "Well, he said only a person out of her mind would 
 write such a thing," she coolly announced. 
 
 "But if the brilliant ( ?) police cannot tell the differ- 
 ence between a harmless attempt at a poem and a Chinese 
 laundry ticket, is that my fault? Can't you see it's a 
 humorous attempt at a poem, not finished?" I argued. 
 
 "Well, you say you had no square meal in your 
 mouth," she replied indignantly. I had eaten two of her 
 meals and her vanity was hurt — she thought she was 
 "some" cook. 
 
 "But this was written in Charleston, and I've eaten 
 a good many square meals since I came away from there, 
 and you saw how seasick I was and could not eat any 
 solids, and I told you I fared badly in Charleston!" I 
 shouted, getting extremely excited and concluding that 
 "if I remain in this town a few days longer, I certainly 
 will become insane." 
 
 — 24 — 
 
She was not convinced and continued her insults. 
 I then and there decided to communicate with a friend, 
 a Mrs. Stalker, at West Palm Beach, at once, and join 
 her without much delay ; although Mrs. X's furniture had 
 ai rived, and I had a most comfortable bed, rocker, etc., 
 in my room. 
 
 I went into my room, wrote my letter, drank some 
 tea to steady 'j;^y nerves and later tried to sleep, but I 
 was much too excited, and tossed until morning. 
 
 After a hasty breakfast, I rode to town and related 
 to my few pleasant acquaintances my strange experience, 
 and, after they had comforted and soothed me, I went 
 to Foster's Information Bureau to find out the best way 
 to go to West Palm Beach by way of Miami, in order to 
 see another friend. 
 
 A very agreeable young woman in the Bureau ad- 
 vised me to go by boat from Tampa to Key West, and 
 by train through the Keys to Miami, then by bus to my 
 final destination. She said it was the most expensive 
 way of travelling, but I could see a great deal more than 
 by going directly by rail ; and of course I wanted diver- 
 sion to forget my troubles. 
 
 I had to wait six days for the next boat, which gave 
 me ample time to hear from my friend in West Palm 
 Beach as to accommodations. 
 
 I shall not describe my feelings or condition during 
 
 the remainder of my stay in A . My acquaintances 
 
 were most sympathetic and planned outings in order that 
 I forget my grievances against the Police Department. 
 One excursion to a Gulf of Mexico beach, Pass-a-Grille, 
 on a clear, warm day was delightful. The sky was per- 
 fect, the water smooth like a pond, and the color of it 
 not merely heavenly, but the most delicate light green, 
 with the whitest, cleanest and widest beach imaginable. 
 We gazed and gazed, and when our eyes became tired, 
 picked beautiful shells the entire day. 
 
 The day before I left, I visited a lady who had been 
 
 robbed of $3,500.00 worth of jewels in A and she 
 
 told me that there was no clue to the robbery and that 
 the police were so indifferent in the matter that she had 
 published a ver>^ strong article in the Tampa papers about 
 it. I told her how intelligently the police acted in my 
 case, and in mv bitterness I remarked that she could not 
 
 — 25 — 
 
expect them to spend any time or thought on a mere 
 $3,500.00 robbery when a dangerous offender, writing 
 
 a poem apparently criticizing the meals of A was 
 
 running around loose. 
 
 She was very much amused, and when I further told 
 her that they dared to enter my room and examined the 
 contents of my bag, which was far exceeding their 
 authority according to the New York law, as I was 
 neither accused nor convicted of a crime, nor a witness 
 in a criminal case, she suggested that I write to the 
 Tampa papers, as they would treat the matter fairly. 
 I answered that I would only then consent to have my 
 name appear in print if it could help her to recover her 
 jewelry. This lady, who is very intelligent, feared that 
 it would not help her case, so I decided not to write. 
 
 — 26 — 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Sail to Key West and Back to East Coast of Florida. 
 
 THE sail down the Gulf of Mexico, lasting a day and 
 night, was without any thrills or incidents, but the 
 weather was fair and warm, and watching the 
 ever-changing shades of blue and green of the Gulf was 
 a beautiful sight to me. 
 
 I thoroughly enjoyed the meals and chats on deck 
 and was quite amused by the persistent attempts of a 
 missionary's wife (Seventh day Adventist) to convert 
 me. She was a charming person; but wasted too many 
 hours trying to reclaim my lost soul. I did not wish to 
 be saved just in her particular way, and she realized at 
 last that I was a hopeless case. There were several 
 Methodist ministers returning from a Conference to Key 
 West, and they were exceedingly kind to me without 
 trying to convert me. One of them, a tall, very pale 
 gentleman, helped me locate my hotel in Key West. I 
 trust that he has fully recovered his strength. His thin, 
 pale face and occasional cough worried me. 
 
 I reached the Key West Hotel late in theafternoon 
 and got quite dizzy when I glanced at the thermometer 
 on December 13th. It was broiling hot, and the minute 
 I got into my room, I rang for ice water, and then pre- 
 pared to take a cold bath in order to cool off, both inter- 
 nally and externally. The instant I opened the faucet, 
 the strong odor of the water and the color of it disgusted 
 me. I let it run a while and realized I could not bathe 
 in Key West, if I never took another bath in my life. 
 The sweet perfume of onions, garlic, ancient eggs and 
 gas we are all familiar with, but this delicious extract 
 of strong odors they call water in Key West smells as 
 if all the above-named highly scented ingredients were 
 put into a large bin and a tight lid put over it and left 
 to ferment about ten years, and only then permitted to 
 be used. Ye Gods! I almost fainted, and I quickly 
 turned off and got rid of all the aqua and waited until 
 
 27 
 
some of the ice in my pitcher melted (the small colored 
 boy was generous in handing out ice, for which may the 
 angels always guard him !) and I took a sponge bath. 
 
 An hour later I was in a street car on a "tour of in- 
 spection." I enjoyed the refreshing breezes on the ocean- 
 side and spent so much of my time there that I had no 
 time left to see much of the town, and had to hurry back 
 in order to leach the Hotel before dark. Almost everybody 
 here looked Spanish and spoke Spanish (as well as on 
 the steamer). 
 
 Early in the morning I was in the train bound for 
 Miami. It was a hot, sultry day, but the windows were 
 all open, and as we glided up thiough the Keys, over the 
 most beautiful body of water I ever saw, I was enchanted. 
 I shall not attempt to describe the symphony of pastel 
 shades during a thunder-storm lasting about ten minutes. 
 Two rainbows added greatly to the beauty of the blending 
 of light greens, blues, tans and cream of the water and 
 the sky. 
 
 I gazed until my eyes almost closed and then I began 
 to reflect for a few minutes that after all it's man's 
 genius as well as his great enterprise that made it possi- 
 ble to plan and construct the most wonderful railway in 
 the world, on water practically for miles and miles. At 
 times I worry too much — and usually cross a bridge long 
 before I get to it ; but I never thought it possible that I 
 could safely cross so many and such long ones, all in one 
 morning. I arrived in Miami extremely tired. 
 
 Among my acquaintances in Miami was a gentleman 
 whom I had met on the steamer coming to Jacksonville, 
 who did everything in his power to make me fall in love 
 with Miami at first sight. I saw Miami Beach by moon- 
 light, rode across the beautiful Bay of Biscayne and over 
 the three and a half mile bridge, before I had time to 
 open my suitcase in the clean, neatly furnished room of 
 the United States Hotel. It was sizzling hot. 
 
 There is something about the atmosphere of this 
 beautiful, prosperous city and vicinity that I cannot quite 
 describe. An air of gayety and good cheer on everyone's 
 sunburnt face, and in the hotels and restaurants the 
 broad, manly shoulders of the officers (mostly from the 
 Aviation Camp) with their intelligent, smiling faces, and 
 the attractively gowned women, all wore a festive air. 
 
 — 28 
 
- 29 — 
 
Every tourist drives around the James Deering 
 Estate, and I lost no time in seeing this choice garden 
 spot of Florida, and the beautiful cocoanut grove leading 
 to it. The natural grov^th here is luxuriant, and the vast 
 amount of wealth, scientific know^ledge and labor com- 
 bined spent to develop it, have made this a paradise of 
 beauty. It would be useless to mention the various 
 kinds of tropical plants, trees and gorgeous flowers and 
 ferns. I shall leave all that to the imagination. 
 
 There are so many places of interest to see near 
 Miami that I had little time to rest. A few hours spent 
 around the Aviation Camp, alligator farms and Charles 
 Deering Estates, were well utilized. 
 
 I was urged to spend the entire winter in this large 
 Garden of Eden, but firstly, Mrs. Stalker expected me in 
 West Palm Beach, and secondly, I needed rest and quiet 
 diversion much more than gayety and excitement; and 
 so I said goodbye to my kind and hospitable Miami 
 acquaintances, and after three days of thorough enjoy- 
 ment, I drove up the Dixie Highway to West Palm Beach 
 on December 18th. Mrs. Stalker and her brother waited 
 when the bus arrived and found accommodations for me 
 for the night. 
 
 — 31 — 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 In West Palm Beach. 
 
 AFTER my round of pleasure in Miami, I needed 
 perfect quiet, and found it in an old-fashioned 
 house that I chose as the most desirable of the 
 many at which I looked. 
 
 I must admit that West Palm Beach did not impress 
 me very favorably at first; even Palm Beach seemed 
 second to Miami and Orlando. 
 
 The famous Royal Poinciana and Breakers Hotels 
 were not open and they are very imposing in size but not 
 striking in grandeur and architectural beauty. I prefer 
 the location of The Breakers, facing the ocean, while 
 only at the height of the season, when the spacious 
 grounds and walks around the Poinciana were all aglow 
 with indescribably beautiful flowers, shrubs and trees, 
 did I begin to "take notice," and a few promenades and 
 chair rides on Australian Pine Walk connecting the two 
 giant hotels and the Lake Trail from Singers' Everglades 
 Club all the way up to 'The Garden of Eden' is a sight 
 fit for the Gods. By moonlight it is not only a scene 
 from Fairyland, but a succession of enchanting scenes. 
 At first I thought the oceanside heavenly; then as I 
 passed the brilliantly lighted hotels, I thought that man's 
 ingenuity and wealth rivalled nature's marvels of loveli- 
 ness, until I "hit" the trail — and then I still could not 
 choose "favorites" like the puzzled young man who 
 adored a blonde, a brilnette and a Burne-Jones beauty 
 all at the same time, as very often happens, and could not 
 quite make up his mind which one to ask to be his wife. 
 I was in the same position until I spent a few afternoons 
 on the small pier near the Poinciana. gazing up and 
 down Lake Worth and the Flagler Mansion, which to me 
 looks like a large park museum, while listening to the 
 band concert on the Colonnade of the monster hotel, and 
 later in the afternoon went to Cocoanut Grove near the 
 Poinciana for a cup of tea, and to watch the dancing. 
 
 — 32 — 
 
— 3:5 
 
The sun went down and the long garlands of electric 
 lights of many brilliant hues, suspended high amidst the 
 rare tropical trees and shrubs, seemed like a scene from 
 "Mid-Summer Night's Dream," so that it was less diffi- 
 cult to choose my favorite spot in Palm Beach. 
 
 The colored band melodies made me long for a jolly 
 one-step or trot, but I was quite content to see the beau- 
 tifully-gowned women (some of whom were very simply 
 but tastefully dressed, others overdressed) whirl and 
 twirl with their partners, mostly in Palm Beach or white 
 flannel suits. The blending of the colors of the happy 
 throng rivalled once more nature's tropical color scheme. 
 
 As I looked past the Grove at the constant stream 
 of wheel chairs of gay tourists and the less fortunate 
 ones promenading and very often pausing to watch the 
 dancers and their expensive attire, sometimes not with 
 admiration or out of curiosity, but with pardonable 
 heart-ache, I was so thankful that I was perfectly 
 satisfied to be in the "swim," once or possibly twice dur- 
 ing the entire season, in a simple white skirt and waist, 
 and that I really found keener enjoyment sitting quietly 
 on the sand, listening to the music of the waves, and 
 watching the ever-changing colors of ligth and dark 
 greeii and blue of the ocean, or revelling in the beauty 
 of the- hibiscus, also the oleanders and orange blossoms 
 and their fragrance. 
 
 During the first month of my stay in West Palm 
 Beach, I sat and listened to the concerts, and read or 
 gossiped in the park near the lake and took short auto 
 rides to and around Palm Beach, or crossed the ferry 
 over Lake Worth and retired very early evenings. My 
 landlady said that I wasted too much of my time in bea 
 and so I promised to reform later and go to an occasional 
 dance or the "movies."' I bathed a few times at Gus's 
 and enjoyed not only my dip, but meeting a few kindred 
 spirits, so that after a while every clear, warm day Fd 
 bask, chat and dream in the sun, on the sand, and then 
 rush into the ocean and actually get all wet and remain 
 much longer in the surf than most women. But then, I 
 wore only a cheap bathing outfit and had not much of a 
 figure to exhibit. 
 
 Genial Gus Jordan and Photographer Landes and 
 his wife, Mr. and Mrs. Wennersten, Dr. and Mrs. Miller 
 
 34 
 

 
 
 
 
 
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 — 35 — 
 
— 36 — 
 
and Mrs. J. Miller "adopted" me and I "adopted" the 
 dearest little kiddie, Christina Joan Plumb, who prono- 
 unced her name "Titina Doany Bum." "Doany Bum," 
 as we all called her, was twenty-seven months old when 
 I fell in love with her,, and she and her parents, older 
 brother of about five, and the other habitues of this 
 Bohemian Palm Beach bathing resort mentioned, spent 
 many delightful hours together. Mrs. Seaman's young 
 giandchildren, of two and four, delighted many bathers 
 with their swimming and diving. 
 
 Mrs. Stalker came down with me almost every day 
 to swim and tried hard to get me married. In fact, she 
 tried too hard. If the poor unsuspecting men only knew 
 what her "honorable" intentions were, they'd be running 
 yet. Having no mother and father to urge me to marry 
 and raise a family, she proposed to guide my destiny, 
 as she thought that it was dangerous to delay much 
 longer. 
 
 Mrs. Stalker gave me vocal lessons in Bensonhurst, 
 but when I came to her. my small voice had already been 
 practically "ruined," so it is not her fault if I cannot 
 sing. 
 
 Any unattached male from eighteen to eighty could 
 not escape her eagle eye, and she would introduce one 
 after the other, trusting that I would become smitten in 
 this land of romance, and return North a happy bride. 
 
 After a while she gave it up in disgust, and told 
 me in the presence of some of my acquaintances that I 
 was a hopeless old maid and deserved to remain one, for 
 I always ran away from every man whom she introduced 
 to me. I saucily answered that the devil himself would 
 lun away from some of her eligibles. Unfortunately, I 
 cannot help my disposition, and, realizing how anxious 
 she was on my account, I became self-conscious and 
 distant, and rarely talked to the Palm Beach and West 
 Palm Beach irresistibles, as one of us had to have a little 
 pride and dignity. 
 
 At one time her hopes ran high. I met, through an 
 extremely charming Chicago lady and her husband, a 
 dashing foreign sport, — the typical male butterfly, and 
 somewhat of a Don Juan. I chatted with him a few 
 times, but, seeing that he was even gayer than I sus- 
 pected, I avoided him later, and poor Mrs. Stalker's 
 hopes were once more shattered. 
 
 — 37 — 
 
She then placed her designs on the handsomest, most 
 intellectual and distinguished-looking man on the beach, 
 and I admit that this time she showed excellent taste and 
 judgment, but I was so embarrassed by her attempts to 
 lasso him that I was too ashamed to even glance in his 
 direction, although I was acquainted with some of the 
 members of his charming family. 
 
 We had many friendly disputes and I frankly told 
 her that she was far too anxious to find me a husband. 
 She replied that the desired end justified the means, 
 which at my age was growing desperate. I didn't agree 
 with her. 
 
 After a while I did not bathe every clear, warm day, 
 because I began to lose weight. Yes, my figure was at 
 last quite fashionable, and instead of curves I could now 
 boast of lines, and even angles. 
 
 Time began to hang heavily on my hands and 1 
 joined The West Palm Beach Tourist Club, newly or- 
 ganized, and presided over by Dr. Schwartz, a very able 
 gentleman of much wit. 
 
 We had very pleasant weekly meetings and some- 
 times excellent entertainments — also refreshments. 
 
 At one of these meetings a Mr. Alfred H. Wagg, a 
 member and President of a South Palm Beach Develop- 
 ment Company, invited the entire Club, first to a moon- 
 light sail on Lake Worth, to be followed by a dance at 
 the South Palm Beach Community Club ; and later in the 
 week, to a Washington's Birthday celebration. This was 
 all at Mr. Wagg's or his Company's expense, and I was 
 so enthusiastic about Mr. Wagg's charm and wit as a 
 host and the community spirit in general, and last but 
 not least Mr. Morgenthau's — the Vice-President's — warm 
 welcome to the Tourist Club, that I was tempted to buy 
 two lots there, although I had been reckless enough to 
 purchase two lots — in one of my weak moments else- 
 where from one of three clever gentlemen. 
 
 I quite forgot to mention that if one has little or no 
 scruples about accepting free auto rides and sails to 
 the different Land Development Auction Sales a few 
 miles distant, one may have a pleasant day's free outing 
 six days out of seven, either to North or South Palm 
 Beach, Lake Worth, Poinciana or Royal Parks, etc., etc., 
 and win candy and valuable prizes besides. 
 
 38 
 
The same day that I purchased lots (my first of- 
 fense) I was invited to an old-fashioned home dinner by 
 the clever gentlemen mentioned, in the Club House of 
 this Land Improvement Company, (not the South Palm 
 Beach Development Co.,) and promptly at six, two of 
 the trio came for me and we drove to the club house. It 
 was a cold day and when we arrived, the President, 
 standing in front of a warm log fire in the cozy dining- 
 room, welcomed me and, after removing my wraps, I was 
 invited to sit down to a very well cooked and beautifully 
 served dinner. The only thing that marred the perfec- 
 tion of the meal was the absence of ladies. It's true that 
 I passed the "broiler" age long, long ago; but Fm 
 Hungarian by birth, and although I was brought up in 
 this countiy and am thoroughly American in all respects, 
 I've inherited some of the old-world ideas of my ances- 
 tors. As a young girl, I was considered quite a belle and 
 somewhat of a Bohemian in spirit, but I only enjoyed 
 going out when properly chaperoned. And a few years 
 after, when I sometimes ventured to places of amuse- 
 ment alone with a gentleman, there was always a sort of 
 restraint and ''frost in the air" that I could not over- 
 come — and yet at dinners and dances, or at any gather- 
 ing of intimate friends, no one could be quite as jolly 
 and lively as I. 
 
 I frankly told them that I would have preferred not 
 to be the only female star in the firmament, as I'm a 
 very old-fashioned woman ; but I made the best of it and 
 enjoyed the meal, and at half past seven the good-look- 
 ing President left me at my door. 
 
 I wrote to some friends that I was not only becom- 
 ing reckless and purchasing land, but getting quite gay, 
 dining alone with three gentlemen (an old female colored 
 servant I had quite forgotten to mention). 
 
 Somehow I regretted this land purchase, and when 
 I bought the two lots at South Palm Beach, Mr. Wagg 
 accepted the deed for this land as part payment, and I 
 may be too optimistic, but I believe in a few years I shall 
 realize much more than I paid for the South Palm Beach 
 lots, and shall not feel sorry that I disposed of the other 
 land. 
 
 During the remainder of my stay, I attended a few 
 song recitals by Miss Lina Conkling, whose singing was 
 delightful and personality more than pleasing. I also 
 
 — 39 — 
 
attended four dances of the South Palm Beach Commun- 
 ity Club, some of which I thoroughly enjoyed. Une 
 evening we danced by moonlight in "Cocoanut Grove, 
 Jr." (as it was christened). The reflection of the moon 
 on the smooth waters of Lake Worth, the millions of 
 stars, the gentle breezes and the sweet strains of the 
 violin and piano, while old and young danced gracefully 
 out-doors, was something to remember. 
 
 I met some very charming and most considerate 
 people at the Tourist Club and elsewhere, and about the 
 middle of March, after the Sun Dance, a number of them 
 left West Palm Beach, and here I must pause lest I for- 
 get to mention the Seminole Sun Dance later. A very 
 attractive program, lasting three days and evenings, 
 March twelfth, thirteenth and fourteenth, was arranged, 
 and for weeks the bustle and excitement and prepara- 
 tions stirred West Palm Beach as it had not been stirred 
 before since my arrival. Unfortunately, it rained the 
 second and third days, and the Grand Pageants, and 
 Masque Ball were postponed. I saw practically all the 
 parades, pageants, fire works and dances, heard the 
 singing, and masked and marched with the gay throng 
 the last evening and had an excellent time, but I wish 
 there had been more genuine Seminole Indians taking 
 part in the dancing and processions. 
 
 Towards the end of March, the tourists began to 
 pack and leave by the hundreds, and I was at times 
 lonely without some of my good friends. 
 
 I had a few delightful moonlight drives with Mrs. 
 Lewis J. Miller, her kind, beautiful and sympathetic 
 daughter, — husband and others. 
 
 For my last evening with them in West Palm Beach, 
 they planned a moonlight ride and a little dancing at 
 Gus's, but I still had some of my clothes to pack, and 
 as I expected to get up at 5 A. M., to go all the way by 
 auto to Jacksonville in one day, (never again!), I was 
 compelled to go home before ten after one dance. Mrs. 
 Miller baked delicious cake and her daughter made very 
 good candy to eat on the long journey and wrote a very 
 touching little poem, that almost made me cry. 
 
 Mrs. Landes came to say goodbye and gave me many 
 beautiful pictures of Palm Beach photographed by her 
 husband, saying: "You can feast your eyes on those 
 whenever you long to be in Florida." 
 
 40 
 
Mrs. Garrett, a very amiable New Jersey lady, who 
 lived in the same house, got up at five in the morning 
 to make breakfast for me, so that, all in all, I thought 
 everybody was much kinder than I deserved. 
 
 The late Horace Greeley said that Milford, in Pike 
 County, Pennsylvania, is the home of politicians, rattle- 
 snakes and bad whiskey. Now, Florida is famous for its 
 climate, fine hotels, tropical trees and flowers, oranges 
 and grape-fruit, lemons, alligators, etc., and from ob- 
 servation and experience, I shall add that it harbors a 
 variety and quantity of widows. It can be called the 
 Mecca of all widows from the United States and Canada. 
 They are of all ages and sizes, "grass" and "sod," rich 
 and poor, old and young, handsome and unattractive, sad 
 and gay, pensive and merry, dull and brilliant, deep and 
 shallow, naive and subtle; in fact, it would take too long 
 to enumerate the many species of this precious clinging 
 vine, if I may so presume to call them ; and possibly that 
 is the reason that so many men come to Florida every 
 winter. I really cannot blame the men, if they find the 
 widows so irresistibly attractive. 
 
 A veiy facetious gentleman once asked me why 
 babies and widows are alike. I had to give up the 
 conundrum, and he said: "Because, after six months, 
 they all stop crying and begin to look around and take 
 notice." Now, I'm not repeating this out of mere bitter- 
 ness, although widows are such dangerous rivals that 
 whenever a gentleman pays me any attention and I see a 
 widow approaching in the far distance, no matter how 
 unatti active she may appear to me, I scent danger and 
 gracefully and quietly retreat. I told the same gentleman 
 that I'd love to be a fascinating widow without being 
 compelled to go through the formality of marrying and 
 disposing of a husband. He looked at me queerly and 
 left me quite suddenly. Of course, it was rather a startl- 
 ing statement, but then, this man could not possibly place 
 himself in the position of a young or old bachelor girl, 
 who has to compete with genuine widows. Widows should 
 be handicapped like expert swimmers in a race, and we 
 helpless old and young maids given some advantage ; be- 
 cause unconsciously they, the widows, are the most 
 scientific and expert anglers on the globe; and what 
 earthly chance has a mere maid when a widow arrives on 
 the scene? 
 
 — 41 — 
 
A hopeful Boston widow of about seventy took me 
 into her confidence and said that, before she came to 
 Florida, she was under the impression that one had many 
 opportunities to meet millionaires, to which I pertly re- 
 plied : "Well, not if they saw us first." A very gracious 
 gentleman, over fifty, invited me for a short drive, and 
 I asked this widow to join us. The next day she came 
 to me with his full pedigree and financial rating and in- 
 come, and I was so disgusted that I could not be even 
 civil to her. 
 
 There are many who think that the winter's crop of 
 Florida millionaires is an unusually large one ; but as I 
 never stepped inside of the Breakers or Royal Poinciana 
 Hotels or the Country Club at Palm Beach, I plead 
 ignorance; and besides, in my travels, I found that the 
 confidence men (and Florida has its share of them) very 
 often look like millionaires, and the millionaires look like 
 confidence men. 
 
 Very many Northern people think that only mil- 
 lionaires can afford to spend a winter in Florida. I ad- 
 mit that, travelling from place to place, requires a great 
 deal of money ; living at the large Palm Beach, Miami 
 and St. Augustine hotels is not for the struggling middle 
 class American ; but a family satisfied with a small 
 bungalow or a cozy apartment, or furnished rooms, with 
 light-housekeeping privileges, can live in West Palm 
 Beach or in any other unpretentious Florida resort with- 
 out spending a penny more than in New York or Chicago 
 or Cleveland. Of course, there was a time when eggs and 
 butter cost an exhorbitant amount in West Palm Beach 
 that winter, and there was a general howl and growl on 
 the part of the tourist, but in a few days the price of eggs 
 dropped almost fifty per cent. I'm not a very shrewd 
 buyer, but those who know how to bargain and did not 
 mind walking or riding a few extra blocks, saved money. 
 The rates in boarding-houses were not a cent higher than 
 in the White Mountains, say, last summer; if anything, 
 they were a little lower. 
 
 When I was in A on the Western Coast I was 
 
 quite amused by the many warnings not to venture to the 
 Atlantic Coast, and when I reached Miami, and said I 
 expected to spend many months inWest Palm Beach, I 
 was told that I'd be disappointed; and when 1 reached 
 West Palm Beach, and spoke to the natives and winter 
 
 42 — 
 
residents about the beauty and charm of Miami or Or- 
 lando, some would grow quite indignant. Everyone in 
 these different towns acted as if it were a personal insult 
 if I found anything worth seeing in any other place but 
 his own. 
 
 This is neither just nor kind. Each section has its 
 strong claim to loveliness of scenery or particular charm 
 or ideal climate to recommend it, and it's belittling the 
 beauty of the whole State by this blindness to all that is 
 attractive in a neighboring or distant town in Florida. 
 
 I left West Palm Beach by auto about seven in the 
 morning and found little to interest me until we reached 
 Indian River and saw the orange groves and beautiful 
 homes and gardens all along the Dixie Highway for miles 
 and miles on the banks of this beautiful river. We had 
 no time to see much of Daytona in the afternoon, but 
 what I did see makes me wish to return and see much 
 more. When I arrived in Jacksonville, after 9 P. M. the 
 same day, my head and spine ached beyond description ; 
 but the lady and her two children with whom I shared 
 the automobile and expenses came just in the nick of 
 time to catch the night train for St. Louis. I shall never 
 again attempt to cover three hundred and twentyseven 
 miles by auto in one day. 
 
 Fortunately the ''Comanche" did not sail on the day 
 scheduled, and I was able to rest two days in Jackson- 
 ville. The weather was perfect, and remained so during 
 my entire trip. I was at last a good sailor, ate well and 
 had many very interesting chats with Captain and Mrs. 
 Johnston and others on board. My room-mate was both 
 sea-sick and stubborn and no one could induce her to 
 come on deck for four days. I coaxed and all our 
 acquaintances coaxed and Captain Chichester coaxed 
 her to get out on deck, but she remained firm. After the 
 Captain's final unsuccessful plea, he told me that the 
 only way to get her out on deck would be to set fire to 
 the ship ; but of course that would have been rather an 
 expensive and unusual way to cure sea-sickness. After a 
 while, I saw it was quite useless to advise her, and she 
 did not get out of bed until the "Comanche" landed at 
 the pier. 
 
 Our beautiful harbor with its many familiar sights, 
 and my smiling nephew and niece at the pier, made me 
 reconciled to leave my garden playground — for a while. 
 
 — 43 — 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 Last and Lasting Impressions. 
 
 IN January, 1920, I again visited West Palm Beach, 
 and found very few changes. There were many more 
 tourists than during January of the previous year. 
 
 In January. 1921, it was impossible to remain away 
 from West Palm Beach ('T had the habit") and my, 
 what wonderful changes! 
 
 The City Park in the evening with its rows of 
 suspended, colored electric lights, rivalled in beauty and 
 richness of color, Cocoanut Grove on the Royal Poin- 
 cianna Grounds, in Palm Beach, after sunset. With the 
 difference, that there were more than 1000 people com- 
 fortably seated, and that the admission was free. Instead 
 of listening to Jazz music, I had the good fortune to 
 listen to Harold Bachman's ''Million Dollar Band." 
 
 The selections seemed carefully chosen with the de- 
 sire to please the different tastes of the tourists, and 
 most artistically rendered. 
 
 This is no reflection on the "Home Band." For an 
 amateur organization, with but little time to practice, 
 they play a number of selections and dance music well. 
 Yet a growing and progressive town, like West Palm 
 Beach, requires the best music and musicians, not only 
 to hold the loyal Palm Beachers', but to attract new 
 visitors. 
 
 Those who had the City's interest and growth more 
 at heart, than the mere sentiment for the encouragement 
 of home talent, realized the need of re-engaging Mr. 
 Bachman's Band for next winter. Here, lest I appear 
 even more inconsistent than it is most women's privilege 
 to be, I better explain that I was disappointed when I 
 heard that Mrs. Nicoll's "Boston Fadettes' did not procure 
 the engagement. 
 
 I greatly admii^ed Mrs. Nicolls as a woman of un- 
 usual wit and amiability (I had never heard her to ad- 
 vantage as a musician). I was almost determined not 
 
 44 
 
45 
 
to like the usurpers (the breezy westerners). Well, — I 
 heard them once, and I heard them twice, and reserved 
 decision. The third time, it was all over with my loyalty 
 to Mrs. Nicolls. After that evening I missed but few 
 concerts, and usually lead in the applause. 
 
 It is difficult to tear myself away from dwelling on 
 Mr. Bachman's qualifications as graceful and efficient 
 conductor. But it is not only music that "hath charms" 
 for me, but scenery as well. 
 
 I walked down to the Lake front and instead of 
 sand heaps, I beheld a Lake Drive of beautiful Royal 
 and cocoanut palms, flowers and genuine Northern 
 lawns. And found benches along the shore to rest under 
 the trees, while watching wild ducks and sea gulls or 
 gazing accross. Lake Worth to the opposite shore, with 
 its Flagler Mansion, Everglades Club, etc. 
 
 Instead of my feet sinking in the sand, I strolled on 
 a white stone walk, along the shore, and saw a very im- 
 posing, ultra-modern building, the Lake Court Apart- 
 ment House Corner of Fern Street and Flagler Boule- 
 vard. 
 
 The following day driving accross the bridge to 
 bathe at Gus's, we did not have to stop to pay toll, as 
 during previous winters. A saving of money and time. 
 
 And last, but not least the drinking water that 
 looked hke strong tea in 1918, and like weak tea in 1919, 
 was and is as clean and pure as well as delicious as Po- 
 land Spring's water, only not as cold or hard. I cannot 
 drink enough of it. It's very fortunate that I relish it so 
 much internally as well as externally since Prohibition 
 is here to stay. 
 
 The one thing that seemed a source of worry and 
 great inconvenience to all the householders, hotelkeepers, 
 etc., was the weak and insufficient gas pressure during 
 the early winter months. 
 
 Every one not only joked but many said harsh 
 things. I plead guilty to a little slam myself. 
 
 About March 8, just about the time of the Seminole 
 Sun Dance, this was not only remedied, but the pressure 
 was so strong that some of us, who are never satisfied, 
 began to find fault again. 
 
 But, "everything is well that ends well" — and I can- 
 not end without enthusing — once more about the great 
 improvements in the Park and Lake-Shore — and praise 
 
 46 
 
is due not only to the present city administration, but 
 particularly Mayor D. F. Dunkle, with whom the subject 
 of park improvement is more than a hobby. 
 
 And as to the climate of this region one disagree- 
 able day from January 20 to March 11. There was 
 sufficient rain, but fortunately, only at night or 
 evenings, and but one day without Florida's glorious 
 sunshine. 
 
 47 -^ 
 
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