Ml) IB ™ iBlplPfM It ISSffl Wjjllil. w >mm m v\UTIl !'•••''!';•■• ':' 1 BgoL L Cowri COPYRIGHT DEPOSm Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/voyagetosouthameOOcapp W U A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA AND BUENOS AIRES THE CITY BEAUTIFUL BY IDA M. CAPPEAU BOSTON SHERMAN, FRENCH & COMPANY 1916 I: V * ©GLA4-|5909 DEC -I 1916 Copyright, 1916 Sherman, French & Cobipany n. i * TO MY FRIENDS IN ARGENTINE LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS A Hunting Scene: Northern Argentine . Frontis. FACING PAGE Preparing for the Bath: Crossing the Equator \6^ The Plunge: Crossing the Equator ... 20 Delivering Milk and Chickens: Bahia, Brazil 28 A Scene along the Road: Northern Argentine 44 v A Pack Train 66 Native Indian Women: Northern Argentine 92 ^ Tree Called "The Drunkard": Northern Argentine 118- INTRODUCTION How many times in my dreams I have sailed on a summer day to that enchanted country of South America. In my fancy I have lived in that City Beautiful, Buenos Aires, the gay Paris of the Southern Hemisphere. I have always loved in my heart our beautiful, grace- ful, dark-eyed Latin cousins, and built many a romance around the dashing Spanish cava- liers of the early days of that country. In my dreams I have tried to imagine how beautiful the Bay of Rio de Janiero really would be. I have even shuddered at the encountering of a huge boa constrictor twined around a tree, like the one we saw, as children, in the pictures of our old school geography. I have seen myself murdered by pirates, and robbed by wicked bandits. I have sizzled and baked with the heat and gasped for breath when crossing the equator. I thought I could almost see, high in the heavens, the wonderful Southern Cross. I have traversed on horseback the vast pampas, and have seen the brave " gauche " (or cow- boy), with his great herds of cattle. But I have always awakened. They were only day dreams. INTRODUCTION The wonders of South America, its scenery and romance, had lured me as no other country ever had. Fancy, then, my surprise and de- light when J., my husband, who is an oil and gas engineer, announced: " We will sail in two weeks for Buenos Aires. Can you be ready? " Could I be ready? I was at that very in- stant ready. ABOARD THE S. S. VASARI August QOth: Aboard the S. S. Vasari. At last the eventful day arrived. Now J. was never known to get excited, or to be in a hurry, nor was he ever known to miss a train ; but this morning he was awake at dawn, both anxious and excited. Our boat, the steamship Vasari of the Lamport and Holt Company's line, was not sailing until three o'clock in the afternoon from Pier 8, Brooklyn, but J. had no intention of missing it. We left our hotel at exactly eleven o'clock a. m. Not in an automobile, — oh, my, no ! that possessed pos- sibilities of a puncture ; but in a good, strong, reliable, four-wheeler, all our luggage atop and inside, — there was to be no missing of boxes or parcels. Until this moment in my life New York had possessed wonderful fascinations, but this morning, as we slowly made our way toward Brooklyn, everything looked mediocre. I only saw in my mind's eye the beautiful Bay of Rio de Janiero and the wonders of foreign cities. Over and over, I was trying to pronounce cor- rectly Buenos Aires, Montevideo, Bahia, and 1 2 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA other strange names, and I was not a little per- turbed, as I crossed the gang plank, with the idea that my first experience of a long voyage at sea was to be one of twenty-four days' dura- tion. What if I should suffer le mal de mer? The very moment I put my foot on deck I knew there was something I was not going to like about that boat. I wasn't just quite sure why, but it seemed to me she was wiggly. I forgot it for a time, while we investigated our cabin, which we found filled with those beau- tiful, loving tokens which dear friends send to brighten and gladden the voyage. Our tele- grams and letters cheered us somewhat. Re- turning to the deck, we found that many of our fellow voyagers were arriving. They, with the friends who came to bid them adieu, made a gay scene. All was bustle and confusion. We enjoyed a delightful lunch with a dear friend who had come to say adieu, and before we knew it we were sailing away, waving a last farewell to those we had left standing on the pier. We were off on our long journey. Usually I would have raved over the beau- tiful ride down the New York bay, but the idea seized me of sending one more last word back by the pilot, and I rushed for paper and pen. When we saw him descend the long ladder and steam away, we knew that our fate was sealed, — that nothing but death or a miracle could ABOARD THE S. S. VASARI 3 separate us from the Vasari. We turned to look at her. What a splendid vessel she was, — with wide decks, polished hard wood floors, chintz hung cabins, linen covered furniture in the lounging and music rooms ! Everything looked so cool, clean and inviting I knew that we should be very happy and comfortable, — except for one thing: she kept going up and down all the time, — up and down, — and I did not like it. While we were dressing for dinner the chief steward knocked on our door and asked us where we should like to sit. I answered at once, at any place except the captain's table, as it seemed to me that everybody I had ever met who had made an ocean voyage had always boasted of having sat beside that distinguished personage. Not that I might not adore the captain, but I could not endure the prospective bore. During our voyage we had a small table, a steward who proved attentive, and it was pleasant not to have to talk when one was filled with sublime thoughts of the wonderful sea. I did not descend to the dining salon with any assurance of comfort ; I had the greatest inclination to hold to something or to somebody and positively no confidence that I should arrive anywhere on this uneasy going boat. The dinner was very good, and afterwards as we, J. and I, sat in our secluded corner on the 4 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA deck and looked at the beautiful moonlight re- flected on the water, we were very happy, and, I am not sure but that we might have been holding hands under the steamer rug and say- ing sweet nothings to one another, because, you see, this was our silver wedding journey and we were starting for a long holiday to- gether; before us lay mysteries which promised many pleasures to our curious minds. Sunday, August 21st: Aboard the S. S. Vasari. We were awakened, — not by the church bells, but by a bugle. The hour we had se- lected for our salt bath was 7 :30, and when we had finished we found iced orange juice, tea and toast served us in our cabin. After a walk on deck, we were ready for our breakfast. Now I might as well confess that I was horribly dis- appointed because I did not feel a bit as I had expected I should, and it was all because the boat was bobbing and I did not like the sensa- tion. Very frankly, I wished that I had re- turned with the pilot. It was a very hot day, the hottest one of the voyage. We were some- where near Bermuda; the sea was very heavy, — it might have been the crossing of the Gulf Stream ; anyway, the stewardess consoled me somewhat by confiding that she, too, always felt badly the first few days out. We also discovered that our cabin was on ABOARD THE S. S. VASARI 5 the wrong side of the vessel. You may think there couldn't be any choice of sea air on ship- board, but make no mistake, — if you contem- plate a voyage to South America, be quite sure that your cabin is always facing Africa. Don't ask me why; just do as I tell you! Be on Africa's side ! It may be in deference to " The Great Sphinx," but no matter, always depend upon Africa for the breezes. The kind purser (an awfully good person to have for a friend on a sea voyage) changed our cabin for a nice, large, comfortable one on the right and proper east side of the vessel. Even then I really felt much better lying down, with an electric fan buzzing over my head, because — well, I will be honest, I didn't think that the boat was steady going. Not that I was the least bit sea sick, — oh, no, not at all ; it was all the fault of the boat, — she bobbed too much! August %%nd: Aboard the S. S. Vasari. I did think that if the good captain of this nice Vasari only knew how much I wished he would stop, just for a moment, his wiggly boat, he would instantly have had compassion on me and would have done so. I know I should have looked differently at people and things. As it was, I did not think much of him ? — either his boat, or its passengers, — or 6 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA of J., or, in fact, of anything except the per- fectly stationary, solid, dry earth, where I wished with all my heart I had remained. Everything looked double and sometimes triple, and whether double or triple, it all moved up and down, much to my discomfort. August %3rd: Aboard the S. S. Vasari. After a fine salt bath, delicious iced orange juice, which the steward now always served us, and a turn or two on deck, I descended to the dining salon, — to my great joy, without hold- ing on to anything. I dashed up and down stairs unaided; nothing bobbed; nothing went up and down except the horizon, just as it should have done in the first place. The boat was as steady as the earth and we were going straight ahead ; and, best of all, to my great satisfaction and relief I found I really had only one husband, there was only one captain, and I was standing firmly on my pedal extrem- ities. There was a joy once more in being alive. It was a perfect summer day. Every- thing was so beautiful. One could not tell whether sky or sea was the more fascinating, both were so clear, calm and blue. In the afternoon we received a visit from the captain, who invited us for tea and who showed us the chart room, which was very interesting even if I couldn't understand much about it. ABOARD THE S. S. VASARI 7 He told us that we were seven hundred miles east of Key West, and sometimes they encoun- tered hurricanes in this portion of the sea ; that we were following the loneliest path of the South Atlantic Ocean, and perhaps we would not see a single sail until nearing Brazil, four- teen days from here. The captain's cabin was so attractive; it contained a fine library, some very interesting pictures of celebrities who had been his pas- sengers, some fine etchings and many photo- graphs of places where he had been and of things he had seen. He brewed delicious tea which had been sent to him by some friends in China. We enjoyed ourselves so much. Isn't it strange how happy one can be on a boat, far out at sea, if she behaves properly and does not bob? August %4*th: Aboard the S. S. Vasari. We were feeling so well, — it was a perfect day. I could not leave the deck, even to eat my lunch, it was all so fascinating. The spray on either side of the boat had beautiful rain- bows made by the sun shining on the white foam. Oh, it was too beautiful! I was en- chanted. We sat on deck the night before until midnight; the air was delightful. The ladies now wore the thinnest muslin gowns and 8 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA the men wore linen or pongee suits. It never seemed too cold or too warm. The temper- ature was perfect. The captain joined us about ten o'clock, and he told us tales of the sea. He ran away at fourteen years of age and had followed the sea ever since. Some of the hardships he endured as a common sailor, a mere boy, in the Indian Ocean, were worthy of a " Diamond Dick " series. He described the hurricanes and typhoons he had encoun- tered. He thought the sailor of today a molly- coddle compared with those of his early days. Now they have as much food in one day as he would have received in a week. The captain was an Irishman, — most interesting ; however, he thought a man made a great mistake in com- manding a steamship carrying passengers who asked foolish questions which bored him, but promised to answer all my questions once, since it was my first experience at sea. August %5th: Aboard the S. S. Vasari. There was aboard the Vasari sl Brazilian composer, Senor de Oliveiro, who played the piano divinely. I thought, as I listened to his playing of selections from " Grieg," that I had never heard music so well suited to the sea. It was heavenly to look at those blue, blue waters and hear those sweet strains of melody. Never had I loved " Grieg " as I did at that moment. ABOARD THE S. S. VASARI 9 This composer presented me with several of his compositions, and brought some duets to the music room, hoping I would play them with him. He was returning to Rio from a world's convention of the Esparentists which had been held in Washington; he told me that many of the Brazilians were learning to speak this language and it was his opinion that it would be the future universal tongue. In the morning we went to see the Kentucky racing horses which were kept between decks ; there were fifty-seven thoroughbreds owned by Major C, who was taking them to Buenos Aires. I was told that the Argentines were devoted to horse racing and would pay fabulous prices for good horses. The Major was a true type of Southern gentleman. It was he who found, after hours of hunting in Rio de Janiero, fresh green mint, and who made us a " mint julep " with real Bourbon whiskey the night we sailed from that port. He also told us not to make the mistake of drinking it, — we should sip it ; but whether drinking or sipping, it was the most seductive drink I had ever tasted. And this same gentleman could gen- erally be found with a small red book in his hand entitled " English-Spanish, Your Own Teacher." He informed us later that one day while in Buenos Aires, desiring a hair cut, he had tried to use the phrase in Spanish, but 10 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA being unable to make himself understood, he pointed to the sentence in the book, and the amused barber asked, with an Irish brogue, " Is it jour hair you wish cut, sir ? " There was a little English sailor who almost paralyzed me by running like a squirrel along the railings of the deck. I couldn't see why he didn't fall into the sea, as there was abso- lutely nothing to prevent his doing so. About four o'clock one afternoon a whistle blew furiously, and in an instant every steward, mate and sailor rushed on deck and began to lower the life boats. I was so frightened that I almost jumped into one, and should have done so if the kind Argentine, Commander Y., had not assured me it was only the usual practice of a fire drill. I found it interesting after I understood what it really was, but I confess I had a few very unpleasant moments. It broke the ice, however, for a conversation with the Commander. He was one of the officers who was in command of the Argentine battleship which rescued the French explorers in search of the South Pole a few years ago, and we found him a very interesting companion. He told us many things about the society of his country. He said that the young people did not have the same opportunity of knowing each other as they do in our country. If a boy had a sister, he did not bring his friends into the ABOARD THE S. S. VASARI 11 home ; he amused or entertained them elsewhere. A girl, when of proper age, accompanied her parents to the opera or was seen driving on the Corso with her mother or companion; she never appears in public unchaperoned. If she were admired by a young gentleman, he asked permission to call, and such calls were usually considered equivalent to a proposal of mar- riage on his part. He was expected to see his fiancee only in the presence of her parents until after the marriage ceremony. The Argentine women are devoted to their large families. Often when a child marries, they remain under the father's roof. And when a wealthy Argentine family travels, — and they generally go to Europe every year, — they take the entire household and a large retinue of servants. They engage, if neces- sary, an entire deck of the steamer. Wherever connecting rooms are required, a door is cut between at the expense of the Argentine. Cows are taken on shipboard to supply the fam- ily with fresh milk and cream ; fattened fowl are also a necessity for the comfort of the fam- ily, who deny themselves nothing that money can purchase. Commander Y. showed us the pictures of his beautiful young wife and child, who were at that time in Switzerland with his wife's parents. There was another young navy officer, Lieuten- 12 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA ant E., — quite the handsomest young Argen- tine I saw in South America; but he could not speak English, so I conversed with him in German. A Doctor D., who had gone to Har- vard four years before not knowing a word of English, was now returning with a diploma, speaking English fluently. Carlos S. P. com- pleted the group of four. He was an artist who had been to Beaux Arts in Paris and had just finished a post graduate course in English at Harvard. These gentlemen became our very good friends and were devoted to us in Buenos Aires, introducing their families and entertaining us in their homes. A rather famous astronomer and his bride were going to Cordova, a city in the mountains of the Argentine, to have charge of the large' observatory situated there. They had been at the "Lick" in California. Mrs. R. of Tor- onto, Canada, was returning to Rio de Janiero with her six months old child, " Jamie," a darl- ing baby, who was loved by all the passengers. Jamie had not yet seen his father, who met the boat at Bahia. There were thirty-eight men going to Brazil and the Argentine to demonstrate the Inter- national Harvesting machines. They were typical Western farmers, and I liked them. One of them, called " Pop Drayton," was very droll. He was first at the table and last to ABOARD THE S. S. VASARI 13 leave, and often remarked, " It's nice to eat as long and as much as you want when it doesn't cost anything." He was always looking for whale, and it was he who called my attention to the first one of these very disappointing South Atlantic mammals. Then there were two theatrical ladies, much painted and dyed, much wined and dined, bound for Rio, and some civil engineers just out of college, going to the Argentine to make their fortunes. They told me afterwards that they had obtained very good positions a few days after their arrival in Buenos Aires. A Baptist minister who was a missionary in the interior of Argentine, his wife, five kiddies and native nurse, returning from their first visit to U. S. A. since going out ten years before, and a middle aged couple who, gossip whispered, were eloping to the wilds of Brazil, also swelled the list. But why elope? They looked mat- ter of fact and uninteresting enough to have just gone. Returning from a visit to New York was an elderly couple who had lived for years in Rio. They had two most comfortable wicker rocking chairs, and if I should ever make another voyage, I shall take along just such chairs, as we found the ordinary steamer one is an abomination. There was only one sweet, girlie girl; she was from Texas, and was going to Sao Paula 14 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA to teach in the kindergarten school. I was told that she had several proposals of marriage before she arrived at Rio de Janeiro. Jeal- ousy was rampant amongst the young har- vesters. August %Nih: Aboard the S. S. Vasari. As I stood on the top deck looking in every direction, I had such a feeling of isolation. There was not a living thing visible, — just sky and sea. I felt as I did when I first saw the Rocky Mountains, — how vast, how strong, how immovable it was and how insignificant seemed the mere atom " man." We were always striving to reach that point ahead on the horizon, but each day we seemed as far from catching up with it as we had been the day before. I commenced to realize that perhaps my old geography was right, — that the earth's surface was composed of one-fourth land and three-fourths water; but I never could have believed it before. I did not realize how much water there could be in the world. There was a great deal of conversation about the Southern Cross, which we had expected to see long before. Sunday, August 28th: Aboard the S. S. Vasari. Mr. R., the purser, asked me if I would play the hymns for the service which was held in the ABOARD THE S. S. VASARI 15 dining salon on Sunday morning. He read the Episcopal morning service and the stewards sang the hymns, but the attendance was poor. The Baptist minister, I knew, thought it sac- rilegious, and held his own service. The day had been most delightful, — neither hot nor cold, — and the temperature was abso- lutely perfect. After dinner some of the officers of the ship were trying a new device for life saving. They threw on the water a life buoy, which was cov- ered with a sort of phosphorescent substance, emitting a bright light. If a man were to fall overboard at night, he could easily see this buoy shining in the water, and, swimming for it, could soon be rescued. It created considerable excitement for a few moments. Many of the passengers thought some person had fallen overboard. J. and I made a visit to the bottom of the ship, and when I saw those poor (but wicked looking) stokers down there, feeding the mon- ster furnaces which made the steam for our engines, which never stopped day or night, I realized as never before what kept us going. August SOth: Aboard the S. S. Vasari. Awakening just before dawn, and feeling restless, I arose and looked from the " ports " into the night. I could scarcely distinguish 16 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA between the gray of the sky and the gray of the sea. The horizon seemed invisible. I was at- tracted by a beautiful star low in the eastern sky. It was so large and so brilliant that I wondered if it were really only a star ; I won- dered if it were possible that somewhere on that planet some other mortal might be looking, and, in turn, wondering about us. I thought of loved ones, — they seemed so far away at that moment, — and as my mind ran on I de- tected a faint glow of color directly underneath this star. She seemed to become clothed in raiments of the softest shades of lavender and pinkish silver, like a beautiful flower. And just then I saw directly underneath this beau- tiful morning star a little golden crescent peep- ing from the water's edge, and from it the burnished rays of light shot upward like arms extended in supplication which seemed to say, " Dear, radiant lady, I love and adore you. I am bringing all my treasure to lay at your feet. Be mine ! " But as I looked the cruel lady had flown, and I could not see her any more; then out burst the sun in such a volume of wrath that the horizon became a flame of beautiful colors. Higher and higher it rose from the water until it hung like a golden ball of fire. The entire eastern sky was painted with such beauty I think it would have rivaled all the fireworks in China, if they could have H en p3 3 2 5 G ffl > H o o H W W H ffi ABOARD THE S. S. VASARI 17 been exploded at the same moment. It was one of the most sublime sights I had ever witnessed. We crossed the equator at seven thirty a. m. A whistle blew loudly and we knew that at that moment we had crossed the line. There was not a single jar or unusual motion. " The Ceremony of Neptune " was not ob- served, owing to the early hour of crossing, but I saw it when I returned three months later. Father Neptune (the purser) was dressed to represent the ancient God of the Waters; he, together with his clerks, made a tour of the decks and woe to the unfortunate mortal who had dared, for the first time, to venture so far from home. He was seized, covered with lather and plunged into the tank of water which was aft, to the great amusement of the other more fortunate voyagers who looked on and enjoyed his misery. The day was wonderful, — one of the most pleasant of the entire voyage. We had ex- pected that the tar would be oozing from the cracks and that one could only breath under- neath electric fans ; instead, there was a splen- did breeze and a few white caps on the water. The sports began the morning we crossed the equator. The astronomer, his wife, J. and I opened them with a game of deck shuffle board: but I must confess I was not very keen about it, as there was too much excitement and noise, 18 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA and we were happy when the captain invited us to his cabin. It was always quiet there, and his " tea " was much better than the tea which was served every afternoon on deck. August 31st: Aboard the S. S. Vasari. The water for the bath was colder now than it had been before; the currents of water and air seemed changed after crossing the equator. We saw the first boat that we had seen since leaving New York. With the aid of a powerful glass we could see that it was a four-masted schooner, and it looked very pretty. Every- one was very much occupied with the sports; the noise and confusion on the decks was dreadful. In the afternoon J. and I went to the prow of the ship. The motion of the boat startled the flying fish, which we saw by thousands. With the sunlight shining through their gauzy wings, they formed a rainbow colored cloud on either side. Some flew a great distance; it seemed as if they were little birds. We did not dress for dinner because the sun- set was so unusually beautiful. In the western sky there were clouds which resembled a dark mountain range ; between the clouds and the sea, the sun hung like a huge red ball, and the sky was tinted in orange, pink, blue and laven- der. As the sun touched the horizon it took ABOARD THE S. S. VASARI 19 the shape of a top; then it looked flat like a peach, and when it disappeared it was night. The astronomer explained many of the pecu- liarities of sunsets in the tropics ; it was very interesting. September 1st: Aboard the S. S. Vasari. We saw the first land today. By the use of glasses we saw the rocky coast of Brazil. But I did not want to see land; I did not care to catch up with the horizon ; I loved the sea. As we neared the Coast of Brazil we did not see much of the captain, as he did not leave the bridge night or day on account of the difficult navigation; the waters were full of rocks and all kinds of dangerous places. But we did not worry, as we felt sure that we had one of the very best captains that ever commanded a ship. The sports were positively too noisy for me, and I spent the afternoon in my favorite place, under a life boat, on a coil of rope. When there I felt that there was nothing between me, the sky and the sea. We saw many whales today. One fought with a sword fish; it was a royal battle; they thrashed the water high as the boat ; the foam was red with blood. The whales were a great disappointment. They were not at all my idea of what a whale ought to be, and I refused to be thrilled by them. I was led to believe that 20 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA I should see a real whale, but they were only imitations. I couldn't see why they were called whales ; they looked much more like large por- poise. We felt quite cosmopolitan today, — we saw land, whales, fishes, a shark, some sea gulls and two sails. September %nd: Aboard the S. S. Vasari. I went with the ship's doctor to see a boy who was a student at Yale last year. His health had been broken by hard study and he thought it would be very beneficial to make a voyage to Buenos Aires and return, shipping as a sailor before the mast. He had, of course, no idea of the life. He was naturally an object of scorn among the common sailors, and the of- ficers thought he was some rich man's son who was doing penance. He had been quite ill, and the kind doctor thought if I would go and see him it would cheer him up. I found him study- ing Calculus and eating his midday meal of soup from a greasy tin basin. He refused to let us do anything for him, and felt sure that he would be much benefited by this unusual experience. We discovered that we had many mutual acquaintances among the students at Yale, and I invited him to dine with us in Buenos Aires. I told his story to the captain and the first officer, and after that they took THE PLUNGE CROSSING THE EQUATOR ABOARD THE S. S. VASARI 21 more interest in him. When I saw him in Buenos Aires, he said that after that visit the sailors called me " the lady of the forecastle." The sports were finished today. After din- ner the prizes were awarded to the winners. I had the honor of presenting them. Everyone seemed happy. There was some fine music. Commander Y. presented J. with one of his prizes as a souvenir and gave me a gold button enameled in blue, black and white, the colors of the Argentine flag. I wore it in my coat dur- ing the ten weeks I lived in the Argentine. September 3rd: Aboard the S. S. Vasari. By the aid of glasses we could see the low flat buildings of the city of Pernambuco today. I was not anxious to land, as I had heard tales of the difficulty in getting ashore, — the water is very choppy ; the voyager is lowered to the small boats by means of a large wicker hamper, and is usually well drenched by the waves. I saw such a queer boat. The captain said, " Come, I will show you the safest boat in the world." I looked, but I didn't see any boat. I did, however, see two men apparently standing on the water, and it was not a " miracle." It was a " jangoda." Now a jangoda is made by fastening several bamboo poles together like a raft and there is a small sail attached. The 22 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA water goes up and down through the poles, and if a shark doesn't eat you, or a wave dash you off, you are as safe as on dry land, — you can't sink or upset. The natives, who usually fish with this queer looking craft, tie a cocoanut, well greased, to the stern of the boat ; the shark tries to swallow this and in the meantime he is speared. It seemed to me that it might be very exciting, but I preferred to fish with a five ounce rod and a brown hackle fly, a mountain stream and a speckled beauty, rather than with a shark and this method. Everyone wondered why we had not seen the Southern Cross. As on the morrow we were to call at Bahia, our first foreign city, many letters were writ- ten today. Mail was to be returned from that port. The captain said he envied J. and me the sensation of putting foot on foreign soil for the first time. We were really thrilled with expectation. BAHIA, BRAZIL September 4 r o o H E O > SANTOS, BRAZIL 45 of ants, loading the holds of these great vessels which were to carry the coffee to every portion of the world, bringing cheer and comfort to our breakfast tables. Captain C. told us that no voyage was com : plete unless one made a pilgrimage to the shrine. J. refused to be interested, but I arose at 6 a. m. and after some coffee and toast, we, the captain and I, started out for what proved to be one of the most difficult walks I had ever ac- complished. The path up the mountain had been rendered slippery by the tread of so many feet the day before, and the heavy tropical dew had not improved it. We were obliged to take three steps forward and slide back two. All along the way bananas grew in profusion; there were ripe oranges and sugar cane, beauti- ful tropical plants such as one sees in our con- servatories and sweet scented flowers. Pretty little birds and beautifully tinted butterflies flew around our faces, and gay colored lizards and little green snakes glided over our feet. The heat, even at this early hour, was intense. When at length we arrived at the summit we found a small wooden chapel. It had a mud floor and on the wall hung waxed replicas of the noses, ears, eyes, toes, fingers and what not which had been so miraculously healed by the magic relics; but I thought that any one who could climb that wicked, slippery mountain 46 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA path surely deserved to be rewarded. Father Schmidt, who lived there, told us that he too came from Pennsylvania. After breakfast J. and I walked about the town, observed the bustle around the coffee ex- change, entered several of the large banks, and made a few small purchases at a very attractive jewelry shop. We watched the long rows of mule teams, each with a tinkling bell, drawing huge loads of bags filled with coffee from the enormous warehouses to the loading places on the wharf. We spent some time in the Bamboo Park. It was called the Bamboo Park because it contained an avenue of these trees, which were united at the height of twelve or more feet and formed a tunnel through which one could walk. It was very pretty and unique. We watched a very droll little animal about the size of a gray squirrel. It had a very sharply pointed nose and a funny long tail, and it moved strangely. When it wished to go to the next tree it caught a branch by winding its long tail around it, much as one would grasp a stick with one's hand; then, after due deliberation, away he went like a measuring worm, tail first, into the next tree. We watched this one for a long time, thinking he might be only reversing, but he invariably followed this method of travel. We heard the whistle blow loudly, and we knew it was time to return to the Vasari. SANTOS, BRAZIL 47 But what consternation awaited us ! J. was at once asked if he thought he could " stoke." The same question was demanded of every man aboard. Our stokers stood on the wharf and sullenly refused to come aboard. On the high seas, before we arrived at Bahia, the engineer had discovered that the sacks or bags of lug- gage that each stoker was permitted to bring aboard the Vasari at New York contained not only luggage or clothing for themselves, but playing cards and suspenders which they hoped to smuggle into B. A. The Brazilian Govern- ment was notified at Bahia; everything was seized by the authorities at Santos ; the ship was fined ; and naturally the stokers were furi- ous and absolutely refused to stoke. For more than an hour it looked as if each man would be obliged to take his turn at stoking. But at last one stoker crossed, and by and by another, and then they all walked over the gang plank and we were off. A severe tropical storm vis- ited us before we entered the open sea. ABOARD THE S. S. VASARI September 11th: Aboard the S. S. Vasari. We were now nearing our journey's end. One more day and night and we should reach Montevideo. The day after we left Santos was dark, wet and gloomy; the sea was heavy and looked muddy. Most of our passengers did not appear on deck that day. Every one I saw was in a bad humor and I sat alone on deck, wrapped in steamer coat and rug, which for the first time since sailing I found necessary. As I sat dreaming, a request came from the cap- tain that we should join him in his cabin for a cup of tea. To this J. and I gladly acceded, but even the captain was in a very bad temper because the kettle was too long boiling. Just as our spirits were being revived by the de- licious beverage the ship's doctor entered and calmly announced, " He is dead." With the addition of a few strong words the captain said, " He died of heart failure? " " Yes," replied the meek little doctor. Turning to me the captain said, 48 ABOARD THE S. S. VASARI 49 " Since you know what has happened you may see this man buried if you wish." It was a great struggle between the horror and the curiosity of seeing a man buried at sea. Besides J. and I there was not a person aboard who knew about it except the captain and his men. At ten o'clock a steward conducted us aft. The steerage was tightly closed. The body of this poor Spanish immigrant had been washed and clothed and had been weighted and sewed up in a gunny sack ; a string had been tied about its neck, waist and feet. Only a dim light, swayed by the gale which was blowing the spray over the deck, hung over the head of the purser, who reverently read the Episcopal service for the burial of those who die at sea. The body had been placed on a plank which rested on the rail of the deck and some boxes of the same height, and the British flag had been placed over it. The wind and waves beat a per- fect funeral dirge to the voice of the purser. When he came to the sentence, " We consign this body to the deep," the captain said, " Wait," and word was passed to the engineer, who stopped the engines a moment; the plank was raised and all was over. September IQth: Aboard the S. S. Vasari. The day being dark and the sea very heavy, again many of our fellow voyagers did not ap- 50 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA pear on deck. On the morrow we would arrive at Montevideo, and the following day we hoped to arrive at Buenos Aires. Summer clothing had to be replaced with warmer garments and furs taken from boxes in the hold. I felt sad to think our delightful voyage was so soon to be terminated. MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY September 13th: Montevideo, Uruguay. The land we saw this morning was Uruguay, and the city was Montevideo. Back of the city there was a mountain and on the top of this mountain stood a fine fort, which we could see from the ship. We landed at a splendid stone wharf erected at a cost of $11,000,000, and judging by the distance we walked to reach the end and find a carriage, I thought it might have cost more. The city seemed deserted. On many of the cross streets as far as one could see, not a vehicle, man, woman, or child was visible. We drove to the seaside, where there was a splendid casino, several fine hotels and many handsome villas. The bathing beach looked good. Returning to the city, we entered the cathe- dral, which was very fine, — one of the finest in South America. We saw the Grand Opera House, in which, I was told, many of the best opera singers had appeared, — Tetrazzini, Ca- ruso, and many others having sung there be- fore coming to the United States. There were plazas on which fine monuments had been erected, but the buildings were mostly one story and not especially attractive. There were a 51 52 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA great many shops which traded in the cut and uncut precious stones that were found in Uru- guay. I was told that the society in Montevideo was quite the most aristocratic of any city in South America. The old Spanish families could trace their lineage direct to the nobility of Spain. There was also a very exclusive set in the Eng- lish colonies. We saw a very queer thing in one of the streets, — in fact, it could be seen at some dis- tance ; it was a very large red brick house, with a mansard roof and a cupola on top ; the win- dows were broken and it presented a look of decay. The house was built by an Irishman who lived in Montevideo some years ago, and for some reason had never been finished. It was called " O'Brien's Folly." In the central plaza of the city, the " Grand Hotel " was situated. Here we partook of a delicious luncheon. This cafe was famous for its " ravioles " and they surely were one of the most toothsome dishes I had ever eaten. They seemed to be about an inch square, made of biscuit and stuffed with finely minced, highly seasoned beef, served in rich meat gravy. Don't fail to have some when you dine at the " Grand Hotel " in Montevideo. We had as our guest the captain, and dur- ing the luncheon a very handsome young Span- MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY 53 ish gentleman came to our table and inquired if there was a gentleman on board the Vasari who was an " oil and gas engineer." This very agreeable young man had come a night's voy- age by boat to meet us. He knew that my hus- band could not speak Spanish. He repre- sented the company for whom J. had come to South America. It was the first but not the last instance of the kindness and courtesy which these South American people, at much expense and trouble, show their friends from the United States. If our country would in- struct the men it sends down there in the same sort of politeness, it would be found to their advantage. On our return to the boat we saw some old women selling sweet scented violets which were beautiful. We took all the violets they had in their large flat baskets. They were very fra- grant but of the single variety and of a very dark shade. That night J. and I gave a supper for some friends we had met on the voyage and I pre- sented the Sefior with a medal which I had made for him. He had been called the " Hero " ever since that day in Bahia when he rescued from the sea the beautiful doll, which I had just pur- chased. Everyone drank to the health of the captain and to good fortune for the Argentine Navy. BUENOS AIRES September 14*th: Buenos Aires. All was bustle and confusion this morning. When we awoke we found that our boat was slowly making its way up the Plate River. It was not so muddy as I had expected it to be ; it was very wide and looked like a great sea in- stead of a river. As we gazed on the land of the Argentine for the first time we were thrilled because we were about to enter a new country, with strange people and customs. We did not, to our knowledge, know but one person there, and that gentleman we had only met once, some years ago, at a dinner given in our own city. I saw some frost on the roofs of the houses, and the day was gray and cold. Furs seemed very comfortable. All our lovely, idle, dreamy days passed under tropical suns on the blue sea were over. The great anchor was dropped and we were at the end of our long voyage. It was with regret that we thought of leaving the good ship Vasari. Stern realities of life faced us. From the boat we saw the tall building of the " Plaza Hotel," the place we had selected for our home during our visit to Buenos Aires. 54 BUENOS AIRES 55 There were many large ships lying in this " Dartsefia Norte." From their masts flew the flags of almost every country. Great iron cranes were loading and unloading their cargos. Long rows of great bonded ware houses lined the wharf. The customs officers kept us waiting, the racing horses of Major C. being the subject of much controversy. We could see on the dock many friends of our fellow voyagers, eager to welcome them, and it made us sad to think we had no friends in this far away country who would welcome us. At last we went ashore. We had no trouble with the customs, because our friend, Senor P., had arranged everything. His car awaited our arrival and we very soon found ourselves at the door of our hotel, and here again his good French assisted us with the room clerk, who was a Frenchman. After looking at several suites I selected one on the sixth floor, consisting of a sitting, dress- ing, bath and bed room. They looked very at- tractive with English chintz, brightly colored covers, soft blue silk draperies and light gray carpets. The casement windows opened on to small iron balconies which I enjoyed very much during my visit, because from these windows I had a fine view of the city. I could see the Grand Opera House, the beautiful palaces which faced the San Martin Plaza, on which our hotel 56 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA was situated, the tall palms which lined the Corso in Palermo Park, and in the distance even the waters of the great, sea-like Plate River. The Plaza Hotel was one of the Ritz-Carleton chain of hotels which always assure one of com- fort, whether in Africa, Europe, Asia or Amer- ica. In the afternoon, Senor P., our new friend, took us for a drive through the city and we drove on the famous Corso, which was lined on either side with tall palm trees. This was where the beauty and wealth of B. A. congregated and drove up and down, turning and passing and repassing the same people many times. The fashionable hours were from four to six in the afternoon. We invited Senor P. to dine with us at 8 o'clock. The dining room presented a very gay scene ; it was a splendid room, bright with electric lights, flowers and music. At- tractive looking ladies and gentlemen from all parts of the world, in evening dress, were dining at this hour. I was glad I had worn my most attractive dinner gown. This new friend, Senor P., was one of the handsomest young men we met in South Amer- ica, tall and graceful, with black eyes and hair and an olive complexion, and the most charming personality. He told us he was between 27 and 28 years old. I wish for a daughter to intro- duce to him. We discovered that his father BUENOS AIRES 57 was of noble Spanish ancestry ; that he had been minister from Colombia, South America, to Washington, had been educated in the U. S. A. and in Bogota ; and had been connected with the embassies at London and Washington. September 15th: Buenos Aires. Waking very early, we had breakfast served in our sitting room,. The sun was shining brightly, so we decided to take a walk down the Florida, that very popular avenue which seemed to begin at our hotel and run directly south to the Avenido de Mayo. The walks on this street were so narrow one was obliged to step into the street when passing. From four until seven p. m. this avenue was closed to all vehicles, and every person walked in the middle of the street. We passed the Jockey Club, a very handsome building, well known all over the world for the wealth of its members. It controlled the horse racing in Buenos Aires. On this avenue I saw a sign which read " North American Bar." The owner of this bar, we were told, had made over two million pesos in a year by serving American mixed drinks and sandwiches. There were a number of branch houses bear- ing the names of the most famous couturieres of Paris, and their windows displayed most attrac- tive models. I was told that the very finest and most expensive gowns were sold to and worn by 58 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA the ladies of Buenos Aires. In the jewelry shops we saw beautiful works of art attractively arranged. In the afternoon the Argentine friends we had met on the Vasari called on us. They were accompanied by different members of their fami- lies whom they wished to present to us. I found them very charming and they all invited us for dinner or tea within the week. Com- mander Y., whose family was in Switzerland, brought an uncle and a brother navy officer who took us in their motor car for a ride around the city. We visited one of the exhibition build- ings of the " Centennial Fair," which was being held this year in B. A. Some flying machines which we saw interested us all very much. There were many other objects of interest dis- plaj^ed in this same building. We drove up and down the Corso and stopped at the Jockey Club, where we had some refreshments. The in- terior of this club was magnificent. It con- tained many fine works of art and in every apartment the furnishings were very rich and in perfect taste. This club was the pride of every Argentine's heart. These gentlemen all spoke English fluently and were very interesting. Commander Y. was very proud of his city, and he had reason to be. We left the car at the Jockey Club, and joined the gay throng of men BUENOS AIRES 59 and women, walked down the Florida in the mid- dle of the street, which was brilliantly lighted with many electric lights, to the Avenido de Mayo. This wide, splendid street was a bril- liant sight, being a blaze of light on either side, there was also a row of lights down the center. Here we found our motor waiting and in a short time returned to our hotel, delighted with every- thing we had seen. The uncle of Commander Y. invited us for dejeuner the next day at 12 m. September 16th: Buenos Aires Commander Y. came for us about 11 :30 a. m. First we called at the Army and Navy Club, situated on the Florida not a great dis- tance from the Jockey Club. It contained very interesting trophies, among which was the beau- tiful piece of bronze which the French nation had presented to the brave Argentine Navy of- ficers who rescued their expedition to the South Pole a few years ago, one of whom was our friend. There were some fine portraits of famous navy officers and many other objects of interest. It was but a few minutes' ride from the Navy Club to the home of Senor C, whose guests we were to be for luncheon (we should call it, but they call it breakfast). I had been entertained in some beautiful homes in my own country, but 60 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA I had never seen any which could compare with this magnificent home. I have since been told that it is considered one of the most perfectly appointed in B. A. The house was built of gray stone, with or- nate finishings, and from the iron balconies hung pink flowering geraniums. On entering a beau- tiful bronze door, a short flight of marble steps brought us to the hall, — a room with marble columns and beautiful palms and statues, where hanging against dark red velvet walls, were the portraits of his Spanish ancestors. The library opened from this towards the front of the house. It had light woodwork which was inlaid with rosewood. The book cases which lined its walls were filled with fine volumes de lux, and I ob- served that they were mostly French literature. The walls were of rich brown brocade velvet, against which a few fine etchings hung. Rich rugs covered the floor. The drawing room walls were of soft green brocade satin. Placed in beautiful cabinets there were heirlooms of ex- quisite laces, fans and odd jewelry which had been worn in Spain many years ago by the ladies of his family. The cover of Maltese lace on the Steinway grand piano looked priceless to me. All the apartments on this floor were separated by French doors which could be folded back and the entire floor made into one grand apartment. Soft colored silks covered the French doors. BUENOS AIRES 61 The dining room was equally handsome. It was a joy to dine from rare old Wedgewood china, and to eat with solid gold plate. There were several old Spanish dishes served which I was told had become almost obsolete ; only a few of the Argentine families retained them. A sweet was served which was delicious. Our host told us that it consisted of only milk and sugar, but that the secret was in the cooking which took hours and hours of stirring over a certain heat. We had our coffee and liquor in the coziest room. This little room was bright with sunlight; its walls were hung with rich Indian shawls and the chairs were covered with the skins of the native animal, the " vicuna," a very precious fur. When we had finished, Senor C. asked if we would care to " see his children." We had un- derstood that he was a bachelor and so were rather surprised. We were conducted to an en- closed court or garden on one side of which was a splendid large golden cage about thirty feet high in which were flying about the prettiest lit- tle birds with gorgeous plumage, singing all sorts of sweet songs ; marble statues and benches were grouped around a fountain surrounded with palms. It was ideal. Our host was a student and had traveled in every country in the world. He spoke English well, but would have preferred to converse in French. Being in deep mourning, he regretted m A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA that he could not invite us to the opera, to which he was devoted. We were now obliged to say adieu to our kind friend, Commander Y., as he took command of his ship the next day. We felt that we were much indebted to this good friend and genial gentleman for the many kind attentions he had shown us, strangers in his beautiful city. I returned to our hotel just in time to receive a call from two ladies, Mrs. James A. and her sister-in-law, Mrs. Willie A. The former was the leader of the English society in Buenos Aires. J. had an introduction to Mr. James A. from some friends in New York, and Mrs. A. came at once to pay me a visit. She was a re- markably beautiful lady, charmingly vivacious. She invited us for dinner the next evening at the " Lela," their home in Floris, which is situated in the extreme southern portion of the city. P. and his friend Doctor B. came for tea. The latter gentleman we found delightful. He owned a box in the Colon Opera House and kindly offered us the use of it while in B. A. September V7th: Buenos Aires. Carlos S-P came for us and took us in his car to his home to meet his mother and sister, whom we found most charming. Conversation was rather difficult as we spoke no Spanish and they spoke no English, but they received us with BUENOS AIRES 63 such genuine hospitality that we quite enjoyed everything. We had our tea after the true Ar- gentine custom, all being seated at a large table in the dining room. I thought it delightful, but Carlos, who had been living so recently in Paris and Boston, did not approve of the old-fash- ioned way and seemed quite upset about it. We were especially attracted to Angelica, the sister, she being quite the prettiest Argentine lady we had seen. We found when we returned to the hotel that we had just time to dress for Mrs. A's dinner. Promptly at 7 :30 her car was announced. We found the footman waiting to tuck us in, as the evening was rather chilly and the ride a long one, forty minutes being required to make the journey from the " Plaza Hotel " to the " Lela," their home in Floris. It was a splendid old English house, built of gray stone and overrun with ivy. The beautiful quinta (or garden) was enclosed with a tall iron fence. It was too dark to see very much of the grounds. On descending to the drawing room we found a company of about twenty ladies and gentle- men discussing the races which they had at- tended at Hurlingham that afternoon. Our host was a Scotchman, and was as genial and hospitable as our hostess was beautiful and charming. We were presented to several Eng- lish people of title. Lady Susan T. was one of 64 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA the guests, and was quite the ideal English lady. The large round table was perfect in every ap- pointment. Mrs. A. informed me afterwards that she brought all her servants from Lon- don, as it was difficult to manage a large place in B. A. unless one did bring them over. The dinner was very gay. I sat at the right of our host, and on my left was seated a major in the English army, just from India. He was exactly as I had always pictured an English army officer to be. J. was the lion of the evening, as every one wanted to know something about oil and gas. Little Mrs. Willie A. remarked that she also " knew something good in oil." " Tell us," we all exclaimed. " Sardines," tartly responded she, — very cleverly. After dinner we gathered about an open wood fire which was fascinating. The wood they burned was called " quebrache." It made a beautiful fire, somewhat like our hickory or sil- ver birch. There was a brass fender which stood around this fire, on the top of which was an upholstered seat. It was the first one of this sort I had ever seen and I thought it was a splendid idea. The costumes of the ladies were beautiful. Mrs. A. wore an exquisite French gown of lace. English women always look adorable in dinner BUENOS AIRES 65 gowns. I thought Lady Susan's jewels were unusually handsome. Every one we met was nice to us. It was a pleasure, indeed, to think that so many thou- sands of miles from home we had found such kind friends. We enjoyed the drive home through the quiet streets, which were wonder- fully well lighted. Our host and hostess, know- ing we were unaccustomed to their city and streets, had thoughtfully brought and returned us in one of their own cars. September 18th: Buenos Aires. As it was Sunday, we slept very late. In the afternoon we secured a car, and taking P. with us, made a tour of the city and parks. We ob- served many small parks, or " plazas " as they were called, where usually a fine monument had been erected in the center, a fountain and beau- tiful flowers, and in some a band stand. The newer streets were quite wide and lined with fine trees whose tops were bobbed as they are in Paris. It is said that the city of B. A. employs a landscape artist to whom they pay $40,000 gold per year just to arrange these boulevards and plazas. Palermo Park was beautiful, the Corso very gay indeed. As we slowly rode up and down several times, I thought I had never seen so many beautiful hats. The Argentine ladies 66 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA wore them with so much grace. It was the year that ostrich plumes were so fashionable and, judging by the number I saw worn that day, they were very popular. The gentlemen I also admired very much. They usually wore Eng- lish morning coats, light spats and silk hats, and I might also add that I had seldom seen so many good looking gentlemen in so short a space of time. We saw a great number of public conveyances almost identically the same. There were, I was told, in Buenos Aires over five thousand of these carriages. They looked like our " Vic- toria," only the drivers did not sit quite so high as they do in those of ours in the United States. Sometimes the drivers of these horses were very cruel. The streets being paved with asphalt, they often became smooth as glass from the heavy traffic. I saw horses who had slipped and fallen, and the drivers beat them until I was perfectly frantic to help the poor beasts get up. Such an occurrence invariably at- tracted a crowd of curious people, who stood watching the poor beast's struggles, but who made no effort to assist him to rise. Horses of this type being very cheap in Argentine, one more or less does not matter. On returning we all had tea with Doctor B. He presented J. and P. each with a splendid carabine (or revolver) to take with them when BUENOS AIRES 67 they started the next day for their long journey into the jungles of northern Argentine. They were to travel by railroad north to the end of the government road, then go by mule-back over a hundred miles through the wildest part of the country. I should have liked to have gone along, but it was quite impossible for a woman to make the journey. September 19th: Buenos Aires. I felt very sad when J. and P. left but I knew that it would be a very interesting trip for them. They had a splendid camping outfit, and I had learned by experience to know how to amuse myself and was seldom lonely. After I saw them off, as it was a very lovely day I called a carriage and thought I would drive ; but I had not gone far when I discovered that I had made a mistake, for as I did not speak Spanish I could not tell the driver where I wished to go, or when I wished to turn. Fortu- nately, I could tell him in Spanish to return to the hotel, and I vowed then never to start any- where alone in a carriage while in B. A. I was told afterwards that it was not the custom for ladies to drive by themselves ; that they should always be accompanied by a maid or companion. I seldom saw ladies walking on the streets of B. A., or, in fact, many of the Argentine gentle- men. Every one rode excepting the lower 68 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA classes or the foreigners. However, I walked many miles each day and met with nothing but courtesy during the ten weeks I lived in B. A., and I never saw a drunken man on the streets. In this hotel there was a very attractive mez- zanine floor overlooking the office, where all who cared to could enjoy their coffee after dinner and listen to the music of the orchestra. This evening, while listening to the music and looking at the different people grouped about from al- most every country of the world, my attention was attracted by a very beautiful looking Eng- lish lady and her husband who sat on the oppo- site side of the balcony. I was agreeably sur- prised when a little later this lady joined me and introduced herself as Mrs. R. of London, a friend of Mrs. James A. She was indeed de- lightful, and the evening passed pleasantly. She invited me to go with her to the Argentine Country Club the following afternoon. September %0th: Buenos Aires. The air today was very bracing and the sun- shine positively alluring. I couldn't endure to remain indoors a moment. I took a long walk and discovered a fine public market. I thought it would be interesting to see how it compared with those of my own city. It was a large one story building, very well arranged. The meat, however, did not look inviting. Owing to the BUENOS AIRES 69 climate, it must be consumed the same day that it is killed. The potatoes were really funny, only about as large as a hickory nut. I was told that they never grow any larger in this country. The asparagus was much the finest I had ever eaten. The vegetables were not washed and were not so invitingly displayed as they are in our markets. The strawberries and cherries were sold by the pound and lay in great heaps. There were bright flowers every- where. Eggs were 5^ each. I bought some fine oranges from an old Spanish woman. She was like an artist's model ; she was so old, so bent and wrinkly, and had such a sad face, but her eyes were very bright. She and I became good friends before I left B. A. I also bought some sweet scented violets. I saw a very pe- culiar looking fruit. It looked like a pear, but the skin had little hard lumps all over it. I found the price very high, two pesos each, but never having seen anything like it before, I pur- chased one and carried it home and I found that it was filled with a soft, milky substance, sweet and delicately flavored, — the most delicious fruit I had ever tasted. It was grown in north- ern Argentine and was very difficult to cultivate. Owing to its delicate substance, it cannot be shipped any distance or stored. I was told that it was a product peculiar to the Argentine and was known as the " fruit of the Gods." 70 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA After lunch Mrs. R. called for me to go to the Country Club. We drove to the Central Argentine Railroad Station, and from there took a steam car a short distance out of the city. The club house was of English archi- tecture. There were some splendid trees near the building, which stood on a terrace. The links looked very good, and a great number of people were playing. We walked over the course and enjoyed the wild flowers and the pretty colored songbirds. Some friends of Mrs. R. joined us for tea, among them the Eng- lish major whom I met at Mrs. A.'s dinner. Although this was essentially an English club, there were many prominent Argentines among its members. On my return this afternoon my room looked like fairyland. Miss G. of Martenez (a suburb of B. A.), to whom I had a letter of introduc- tion, had sent me dozens of the most wonderful iris I had ever seen. I had not dreamt that there were so many varieties. The fragrance was intoxicating. The housekeeper had ar- ranged them about the room in tall vases, and they were so beautiful I had my dinner served in my rooms. There were some exquisite yel- low ones. It was such a friendly welcome to a stranger in a strange land. I hoped that she knew I loved every flower. BUENOS AIRES 71 September %lst: Buenos Aires. The morning was not pleasant ; it rained ; but after writing a few letters I donned a raincoat and started out for a new adventure. On the Florida I had seen one day an English book shop. I went in today and found a book ex- change. I bought a book. After reading it, it could be exchanged for another by paying a fee of ten cents, and the original book was mine to take away if I wished. After lunch I visited the Art Gallery, which was a part of the Centennial Exposition. The buildings were very handsome and were situated on the San Martin Plaza, very near the hotel. The entrance fee was two pesos, or about one dollar of our money. I thought I had never seen a more pleasant arrangement for an art gallery. Each country had its own apartment. The walls, the soft velvet rugs, and the com- fortable upholstered divans in the center of the rooms were of the same color, — light gray, blue, brown or crimson. In one large gallery near the center of the building was a splendid orchestra discoursing good music. I did not think the English, French or Ger- man displays so good as they should have been. The Italian things were most interesting. The art of Chile was a revelation; not only was the painting clever, but there were pleas- ing subjects which I found most interesting. 72 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA The Spanish exhibit was, to my mind, the very best. The " Zorelles " collection occupied sev- eral rooms and the paintings fascinated me strangely. I returned many times to study and enjoy them. There was such dash, so much life and action in them. His men and women seemed alive, his beggars grewsome. One of them, the dwarf, was positively un- canny ; his little, wicked eyes seemed to follow me even into the next room, where I found this same model in another picture. These paint- ings reminded me of the old Spanish masters. There were many other Spanish pictures which I admired. Soon after my return from the gallery I re- ceived a visit from Miss G., who had sent me the iris. She proved a most attractive young lady, and we passed a pleasant hour over our tea. She invited me to come to her home Sunday afternoon, it being their custom to receive vis- itors from the U. S. A. on each Sunday. After she had gone I spent an hour resting and enjoy- ing one of the gorgeous sunsets which were so beautiful from my window. The atmosphere was so clear that the color effect was wonder- ful. After dinner, the R.'s, my English friends, joined me in the balcony for coffee. Mrs. R., like most English ladies, enjoyed a cigarette with it. She offered me one of her favorite pri- BUENOS AIRES 73 vate brand, which I was obliged to decline. I told her I was very sorry, but they did not agree with me, which made her smile. The evening passed very pleasantly. They had lived in many interesting places. Mrs. R.'s father had been at one time a governor in India. She related some interesting incidents of her life in that country. Mr. R. had built railroads in China. He said the most difficult thing to obtain was the right-of-way for the railroad in China, because of the number of an- cestors who had been buried and whose graves must always be kept sacred. Life in Africa had been full of adventure, and Peru they con- sidered the most picturesque of all South Amer- ica. J. had been gone three days now, but I found time flew ; everyone I met was so kind and every- thing I saw was so full of interest. September %%nd: Buenos Aires. I went for a walk over many new streets to- day. Those of the older portion of the city were very narrow ; there were hundreds of small shops on either side, — lace shops, shops where one could have bought beautiful aigrettes for almost a song, pawn shops which I was dying to enter and nose around among the old-fash- ioned jewelry and other curios. I went to the market again. My nice, old, 74 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA wrinkly woman was there; she kissed my hand. I knew she robbed me of my pesos and smiled as she returned me a few coppers in change for an orange, but I was glad she did, because she looked so miserable and besides, her oranges were good. I received a call from Dr. L., the Harvard student. He had tea with me. I invited him for luncheon Sunday, and planned to take him with me to Martenez, because, never having been there and not knowing how to speak any Spanish, I thought I might not find the way. September %3rd: Buenos Aires. I felt fine and the air was so exhilarating I could walk great distances without feeling fa- tigued. I explored the streets east of the Florida. The day before I had walked on the west side. I saw many of the large banking houses, — German, English, French and Italian, but not one of the United States. The Bolsa, or Stock Exchange, was a fine building, and I found many of the steamship offices in that neighborhood. I tried to enter the cathedral, but was unable to discover an entrance which was open. The building was rather modern looking and I did not like its appearance from the outside as well as I liked those of the very old, Spanish-looking ones. The building of the La Prensa, the largest daily newspaper in BUENOS AIRES 75 B. A., was most pretentious. J. and I after- wards visited this building; it was quite inter- esting. There was a gorgeously furnished suite of apartments which was always at the disposal of any great celebrity who visited B. A. I un- derstood, however, that only two Yankees had used them, a well-known politician, and Cap- tain Cook when they visited this country a short time ago. Tea at the Plaza Hotel was always entertain- ing. One saw, almost any afternoon, scores of fashionably attired men and women. The women of B. A. had exquisite taste ; their gowns were mostly rich black or dark blue colors and the hats were marvelous. Paris sends her lat- est and best models here, at least six months ahead of New York. The men who came here for tea were the wealthy young Argentines who spend most of the year abroad. Dinner at the Plaza was also a very pleasant occasion. One dined usually at eight and the ladies wore attractive dinner gowns. Some of the ladies were beautiful and there were usually many distinguished foreigners. I had a very desirable little table beside a latticed window, which I found very enjoyable to have opened in summer. The service was good and the food delicious. Seated at a table near was a noted English author and a much bronzed explorer of no mean reputation. Their conversation was 76 A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA often brilliant. A celebrated artist of London and his wife were also living at this hotel. There was one German baroness who was really the first smartly gowned German woman I had ever seen; but the very best looking lady, by all odds, was my friend, Mrs. R. She was tall, blond, with blue eyes and a splendid complex- ion, and she carried herself like a queen. September 24