Class. I!(i(ik_ iUfe \«51 SMITIISOXIAX l)i:i'()SIT. MORRISON'S STRANGER'S GUIDE TO THE . . .- CITY OF WASHINGTON :ts viciNiTy.,>^ H JTA^ c ILLUSTRATED WITH EIGHTEEN STEEL, AND TWENTY WOOD, ENGRAVINGS : REVISED AND CORRECT- ED, WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY THE REV. R. R. GURLEY. WASHINGTON, WILLIAM M. MORRISON, 1852. 115 3. Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1852, b y Will i am M. Mo rrison, in the Clerk's Of^c^ot' the 'bistrict 'Court for the *i^* trict of Columbia. C. Alexander, Printer, F, near 17th street. CONTENTS. PAGE, Introduction 1 Washington City 13 Potomac River 21 Public Halls, &c 23 Hotels and Boarding Houses 27 Public Schools 27 Private Seminaries 29 Libraries 30 Arts and Artists 31 Population of Washington 34 Churches 34 Burial Grounds 38 Congressional Cemetery 38 Capitol 44 Trumbull's and other pictures. ... 52 Hall of the House 59 Senate Chamber 62 Library Room 64 Naval Monument 67 Capitol Grounds 67 President's House 69 , CONTENTS. Statue of Jefferson 76 State Department 78 Treasury Department 79 War Department 81 Navy Department 82 Post Office 83 The Patent Office 84 Washington Monument 87 Statue of Washington 94 Jackson Monument 97 National Observatory 98 Office of the Coast Survey 105 Smithsonian Institution 107 Public Grounds 114 Columbian College 115 Navy Yard 118 Arlington 120 Georgetown 125 Heights of Georgetown 126 Oak Hill Cemetery 127 Convent of Visitation 130 Miss English's Female Seminary 130 Alexandria 132 Mount Vernon 138 Bladensburg 141 (Conclusion , 142 ENGRAVINGS, PAGI Portrait of Washington, to face Vignette title. Vignette — old vault at Mount Vernon. View of the City of Washington . 13 Congressional Burial Ground 38 West view of the Capitol 44 East view of the Capitol. 44 Tympanum, eastern portico of the Capi- tol 4«i Statue of Columbus 48 Statue of War 50 Statue of Peace 51 Penn's Treaty with the Indians 57 Boone's Conflict with the Indians 57 Representative's Hall 59 Landing of the Pilgrims 60 Rescue of Capt. Smith by Pocahontas. ... 61 Clock in the Representative's Hall 63 Senate Chamber 64 Peale's Portrait of Washington 65 Naval Monument 68 VI ENGRAVINGS President's House — south front 71 President's House — north front 71 I Statue of Jefferson 77 ^ Treasury Department 79 Post Office 83 Patent Office '....*... ^ 84 Washington Monument {.^ A? { f tk ) 88 Statue of Washington. 95 National Observatory 99 Smithsonian Institution 106 Cohimbian College 116 Navy Yard 118 Arhngton 121 Georgetown 125 View from the Heights of Georgetown . . 126 Little Falls of the Potomac 132 Alexandria 133 Mount Vernon 138 Bladensburg 141 INTllODUCTION In the advantages of position, climate, produc- tions, and scenery, the District of Columbia is perhaps unsurpassed. True, there maybe in other countries, and even in this, regions where nature shows an aspect bolder and more grand ; yet is there none of the same extent, in which, from so many points, she looks forth with features of such modest, tranquil, charming beauty. True, there is here no Alpine or ocean scenery, no cliffs, glens, or lakes, like those of Scotland ; yet, from any position on the fine amphitheatre of hills thrown around Washington, including those on the Vir- ginia side of the Potomac, what objects of rich and varied, of simple and picturesque loveliness, meet the eye! He who looks out from the Capi- tol, from the heights of Georgetown, or from Arlington, (the seat of Mr. Custis,) sees spread before him a view which must gain in the compari- son with those famous ones from Windsor Castle or Richmond Hill in England, and to which, on the same scale, nothing superior, if equal, can be found in the compass of the Union. And where is the spot on earth more abounding than this District in all those good gifts of Providence, which 2 INTRODUCTION. supply, not merely the necessities, but minister to the luxurious desires and refined taste of civilized man ? Ships laden with the productions of every land may be borne on the bosom of a noble river to its w^harves ; from its forests, fields, and gar- dens, may be gathered provision for a feast such as a Roman emperor could not buy ; flowers of every hue shed their fragrance on its genial air, and birds of sweetest song build their nests among its branches. The people of this District may adopt with truth the words of inspiration, and say, "the lines have fallen to us in pleasant places, and we have a goodly heritage." But if the natural advantages of this District are great, the peculiarities of the social and politi- cal condition of its inhabitants are not undeserving of notice and regard. Selected for the seat of the Federal Government, and placed under its legisla- tive control, while they enjoy not the political rights and independence of the States, they share more in the favor and protection and are more iden- tified with the interests and prosperity of the na- tion. They are less disturbed and distracted by questions connected with State rights and local politics. The stormy agitations connected with elections spend much of their rage before they reach these limits, or break out only in the halls, ^nd subside with the departure of Congress, This 1 NTRODlKVrrON. 3 is to be understood not of those connected with the offices of Government, but of the citizens generally, who, enjoying the blessings of good government, are well satisfied with the immunities and honors of private life, leaving to others the anxieties, re- sponsibilities, and direction of public affairs. Such persons find in this District a sheltered and quiet nook, where, indeed, they may hear the sound of the tempest, but fear not its power, and, while observing eveiy now and then some gallant vessel dashed a wreck upon the shore, pursue their occu- pations with thankfulness, that they can look out upon the angry waves of the political ocean, and remain inaccessible to their wrath, and dread no treacherous elements of its evil fortune. They have all the intellectual advantages of the ablest political discussions, but are less exposed than citizens of the States to the evil effects of political excitement upon the passions of the heart. Of the social condition of the inhabitants of this District, it may be remarked, that it has all the freshness of youth ; that the population is gathered from every section of the country, and even from distant and different nations ; that, w^hile favored with many agricultural and commercial advanta- ges, they are not particularly exposed to be seduced into wild speculations and dangerous excitements of .the love of gain ; that, while not impelled to make 4 INTRODUCTION. haste to be rich, they may be certain that industry, frugality, antl economy will find sure rewards; that, like the people of ancient Elis, in Greece, they dwell on a territory dedicated to the common good of all the tribes of the Republic, and to which they annually come up, not in arms, or to the trial of their physical strength, but to the contest of mind with mind, in skillful argument and eloquent debate, on subjects of high and solemn bearing on the welfare of the State, and finally, that an almost constant and extensive intei'course with their fellow citizens from all sections of the Union, and stran- gers from foreign lands, will prove for good or evil, as they are trained and disciplined to render such intercourse and the knowledge derived from it, the aliment of virtue or the means and aids to vice. The cultivation of a taste for science and letters is of the highest importance to the people of this District, and by this will they most effectually adorn, and elevate their character, and advance their highest interests. It is not strange that many have ascribed the origin of written language to God, since it is difiicult to imagine that unaided human reason could have devised so wonderful an instrument for the communication of thought and the increase of knowledge. Things most admirable, being com- mon, cease to be admired. The alleged facts of mesmerism are not, perhaps, more wondei-ful, than leiters and their use must appear to a barba- INTRODUCTION. 5 rian. How surprised was the poor Indian who, when sent by his civilized neighbor with a letter and present to a friend, was told that if he took anything from the basket, the letter would inform of his theft, and therefore while violating his trust, hid it under a stone that it might not see him, to find his dishonesty instantly detected ! Could tliere be thrown wide open at once to this untauglit savage, the gates to that exhaustless and unbounded universe of knowledge to which letters give access : could he behold the events of past ages, the con- tests, achievements, the words, and even the very thoughts of a hundred generations, embalmed and treasured up in history: could he be ushered into the i^resence chamber of Shakespeare's genius, garnished with poetic majesty and beauty, hung round with the gorgeous tapestry of kingly halls, and all emblems and pictures of comic life or tragic sorrow ; or into that statelier and purer temple where Milton worshiped, singing high anthems as at heaven's doors to God's omnipotence ; or, turn- ing from these regions where taste and fancy linger, catch but a glimpse of that kingdom of philosophy where Bacon stood pre-eminent, the high priest and interpreter of nature, because willing to follow her methods, and listen to her voice, unlock her various departments where are named and classi- fied, examined, and registered, all the countless forms of the animal, vegetable, and mineral crca- Q INTRODUCTION. tion : could he gaze upon star-eyed science, as she marshals her bright host, keeping watch over our shadows, changes, and decay, expressing silently the glory, and, by swift obedience, and constant and mighty evolutions, declaring themselves the sentinels and the messengers of the Father of Eternity : could he lift the veil from the mind, dis- cover its powers, laws, passions, the force of reason, the depth and tenderness of the affections, the vigor and grasp of the imagination, the energy of the will, and the supremacy of conscience, and how to one and all belongs the grandeur of immortality : would he not fall down before the Great Spirit of the universe, and deem himself enriched and sur- rounded by the special gifts and revelations of His wisdom ? How wide the gulf which separates those who have, from those who have not, the knowledge and use of letters ! And who that is not indifferent to his own happiness will fail to enrich and adorn his mind with choice thoughts and the precepts of the highest philosophy, that, in solitude or adversity, he may find himself in pos- session of treasures of which no earthly power can deprive him, and which he can freely impart to others, Mdthout diminution, and without loss ! Yet the observation of Fuseli, as quoted by Professor Henry, should be remembered: "That no great genuine work of art was ever produced where the artist did not love his art for its own sake ; and the INTRODUCTION. 7 remark applies to every branch of science and let- tei-s. All the master works of the mind must be the genial production of those who find their labors their own exceeding great reward. True love alone quickens creative energy. He who can be drawn to labor in the cause of truth, and letters, only by the earthly rewards of money and honor, will never do anything worthy of reward." There is a sense of personal honor and dignity connected with knowledge and intellectual power, which belongs to no mere distinction of rank and fortune. This is true both of individuals and com- munities. In what catalogue of nobles or of kings are names to compare with those of Homer, Aris- totle, Plato, Bacon, Locke, Shakespeare, Milton, Butler, Newton, Edwards, who have contributed to exalt the human understanding, thrown new light upon abstruse subjects of human inquiry, and en- larged the empire of wisdom ? Who, asks an elo- quent author, " would not prefer to have been a citizen of the small republic of Geneva, than to have wandered a prince on the territories of the Czar, or reign the master of a desolated conti- nent." If, which is doubtful, any other portions of this country may boast of natural advantages superior to those of the District of Columbia, surely the people of none have greater inducements and op- portunities for the cultivation of literature and § INTRODUCTION. science, of manners and the heart. The absence of the strongest stimulants to commercial cupidity and political ambition leave them especially open to the gentler and more refining influences con- nected with the study of nature, of books, and themselves. As they have less chance of distinc- tion in some other pursuits, they have a fairer prospect and stronger motives to seek it by intellec- tual culture, the acquisition of knowledge, the im- [trovement of the arts, and the exhibition of the best manners and the most humane and generous affections. Their territory is not too large for the highest cultivation in every part. Be it then the garden spot of the republic, more attractive than the ancient groves of the academy, where not our countrymen only, but foreigners, may refresh themselves by purer than Castalian streams, and find philosophy, while discoursing eloquently on the works, not irreverent, unbaptised, and without awe of the providence and word of God. Thus, by winning distinction for their literary, scientific, and moral character, will the inhabitants of this District most effectually advance all their secular and subordinate interests. The central position it occupies in the political system, and the establishment within its limits, of the seat of the General Government, the annual assemblage of Congress, and of such citizens of the States as may find cause to attend upon its proceedings, renderf.- I N T R O D U T I O N . 9 this District, for a residence, a place of many attrac- tions. If it become a home for genius, taste, and art, be greatly distinguished for the love of letters, for scientific investigation and discovery ; if it be- come famous for its schools and colleges, combin- ing in their methods of instruction and discipline ■whatever the vi^isdom of antiquity can supply to the study and experience of modern times, thou* sands will make it their abode, assured that while they bring their sons and daughters to secure the benefit of the best education, they place them also where example will add force to precept, where what is begun in the schools will be cherished and perfected by the ever present influence of general society. To this District let the eyes of our country- men be once turned as were the eyes of all Greece towards Athens, and it will do more for its pecu- niary and every other valuable interest than a do- nation of millions from the national treasury. And since the influence of this District must be for good or evil to the whole nation, its citizens owe it to their country to seek nothing short of the highest attainments possible in literature, science, and a sound Christian influence. Ignorance and vice at the heart will send a pernicious influence to the extremities of the political body ; while every pulsation there of intellectual energy and virtuous sentiments will infuse health and gladness through the entire system. Vast are the responsibilities of a2 IQ INTRODUCTION. tlie people of this District. Not for tiiemselves aloue do they act nor should they labor, but that from the Capital of the Union a high-toned intelli- gence and manly virtue may be sent forth to per- vade and bless'the population of the land, so that, if this District be least in the measure of its terri- tory and in its political rights, it may be greatest in the distinctions of the intellect and the moral dig- nity of its example. In pecuniary resources and political power it cannot hope to rival any one of the States, but the loftiest among tliem it may equal, if not excel in virtue and beneficence ; and, while wisdom is better than strength or than weapons of war, while the words of the wise are heard in (juiet more than the cry of him who ruleth among fools, if true to themselves and their country its people may kindle a light around the Capital which shall confound the pretensions of vanity, and expose the disguises of guilt, and exert a moral influence upon the nation to its utmost limit and for all time. Nor can language express the dishonor which would be theirs, should they ever permit darkness to settle upon the high place to which the tribes of our Israel come up, to mingle their congratulations, renew their patriotic vows, invigorate their intellect, strengthen their union, and, by their high example, call the world to liberty. Tlie people of this District have everything to encourage their hopes, and incite them to the INTRODUCTION. Jj most decided and confident etTorts in the cause of letters, of art, and of science. The system of common school education, so well commenced, the many private and public seminaries of great ex- cellence rising into life, the establishment of colleges of high promise, the National Observatory, Na- tional Institute, and Smithsonian Institution, open- ing a wide and cheering prospect of scientific dis- coveries to future generations^ — these are signs and assurances that this District is yet to become worthy of the distinc.tion it enjoys, and for itself to win a renown more exalted than it is possible for cir- cumstances or any Government to confer. There is manifestly abroad among the citizens of Washington and th^ District, a spirit of improve- ment, and the recent policy of the city authorities is such as promises large and permanent benefits to the community. Public attention begins to be turned earnestly to architecture, an art embodying more perfectly than any other, beauty and gran- deur, the cultivation of which is adapted to refine the taste, exalt the imagination, and chasten and ennoble the moral sentiments. Manners, it has been justly said, are more im- portant than laws. Of these a sound morality is the basis, and the only adequate sanction of this is derived from the revealed will of God. The culti- vation of letters and science disciplines the higher faculties, diminishes the power of the senses and 12 INTRODUCf 10?^. the force of the temptations which threaten virtuej gives pleasure, which there will be no cause to re- gret, and means of usefulness which it is our duty to employ. But the highest genius and largest acquirements do not of necessity soften and refine the manners, or purify the heart. Without the spirit of a Divine Philosophy, the finest parts, most brilliant wit, and ample knowledge, are but the adornings of a sepulchre, and profit nothing. Faitliful to their high trust, the present inhabi- tants of this District may anticipate the time (let it be not far distant) when tlie great arid good Father of his Country, turning his benignant eye to this territory of his choice, shall behold it rich in agricultural resources and improvements, adorned by industry, by art, and all architectural beauty ; its hills covered by stately edifices, its valleys smil- ing with cultivated gardens and the best products of the soil, its churches solemn, well proportioned^ and grand in aspect ; its schools and colleges all that the wisest friends of education could desire ; and) towering above all, a National University worthy of the name of "Washington, who pro- posed it, and of the nation that shall endow it and participate through all ages in its inestimable bless- ings! 'r 4'!'- 4 '^ >; M WASHINGTON Washington City, the seat of Government of the United States, is within the District of Co- lumbia, a Territory which, as ceded by Maryland and Vir^nia to the Government, was ten miles square, the diagonal lines running north and south and east and west, and which, as selected by General Washington, included the cities of Wash- ington, Georgetown, and Alexandria. That part which was ceded by Virginia, being all that por- tion of the District which lay south of the Po- tomac, including the city of Alexandria, has recently, by act of Congress, been restored to Vir- ginia. Washington is admirably situated for a magnificent city, on the left bank of the Potomac, and the right of the Anacostia or Eastern Branch, and was laid out by General Washington on a plan commensurate with his enlarged mind. This city is nearly surrounded by a fine amphi- theatre of hills, of moderate elevation, covered with trees and shrubbery, commanding from many points picturesque scenery and extensive views of the Potomac or river of Swans, which, de- scending from the Alleghany mountains, and wind- ing its way for nearly four hundred miles, through a fertile and most attractive country, expands into a3 14 PICTURE OF the Chesapeake bay, and finally, through its ample waters, mingles itself with the ocean. The en- virons of the city abound in the most eligible sites for villas and country seats for individuals of wealth and taste, and such will doubtless be mul- tiplied as the great advantages of Washington for health, education and agreeable and refir^d society, become evident and more extensively known. The first recorded communication in regard to the laying out of the city is from the pen of Gen. Washington, dated March 11, 1791; and in a letter dated April 30, 1791, he calls it the Federal City. About four months later, the name which it now bears, City of Washington, was adopted by the Commissioners appointed to lay it out, probably without the knowledge of General Washington. The original proprietors of the land, Daniel Carrol, Notley Young, David Burns, and Samuel David- son, in consideration of the great benefits which they expected to derive from the location of the seat of Government, conveyed in trust to the Com- missioners, for the use of the public and for the purpose of establishing the city, the whole of their respective lands which were included within the lines of the city, upon condition that, after retain- ing for the public the ground of the streets, and any number of squares that the President might think proper for public improvements or other public uses, the lots should be equally divided ^ WASHINGTON. 15 between the public and the respective proprietors. By this means the public obtained possession of more than ten thousand lots; from which, in addi- tion to a donation of one hundred and ninety-two thousand dollars from Virginia and Maryland, funds were to be raised to defray the expenses of the public buildings, and other necessary objects. A French engineer. Major L'Enfant, was em- ployed in 1791 to furnish a plan and lay out the city; but owing to some difference between him and the Commissioners, he was soon dismissed, and Mr. Ellicot, in 1792, was appointed. A plan for the capitol presented by Dr. William Thornton was approved by President Washington on the 2d of April, 1792, but it was subsequently modified by Mr. G. Hallet. On the 18th of Sep- tember, 1793, the corner stone of the north wing of the capitol was lai"d with masonic honors, M'hen General Washington delivered an appropriate and impressive speech. The city was first occupied as the seat of the Federal Government in 1800. The extent of/ the city is from northwest to south- east about four and a half miles, and from east to southwest a:bout two miles and a half. The whole area of the city is three thousand and sixteen acres, - / * and its circumference is fourteen miles. The positions for the public edifices are generally eli- gible and convenient. The stree'ts of the city run north and south, and east and west. These streets IQ PICTURE OF are crossed diagonally by spacious avenues, whicfi bear the names of the diiferent States as far ag they reach, and are from one hundred and thirty to one hundred and sixty feet in width. The other streets vary in width from seventy to a hundred feet, and are named numerically as they run from north to south, and alphabetically when from east to west. Some of the avenues ai-e planted with trees, and many open spaces and squares are pre- served, an.d, with the very large reservation ex- tending from the capitol to the river, will afford ample space for walks, and when properly laid out, cultivated and adorned, will contribute essentially to the pleasures as well as health of the citizens. It is a historical fact, that even as far back as 1663, more than a century before the Revolution- ary war, the site of the city of Washington was laid out, and called Rome. A gentleman by the name of Pope was the proprietor of the soil, and the Tiber ran through his tract. The stream still flows at the foot of the Capitoline H%ll, and has its ancient name of fame. Here, also, even when these names were not remarkable among the people of those days, and when they were not looked upon as prophetic, the Indians of many tribes con- gregated and deliberated in council. Here they regulated their wild government, made treaties, and declared war. The legend is true, and General Washington, it is supposed, was aware of the fact WASHINGTON. I7 How singularly, then, has this location become the seat of a great empire. There is a romance around every, even the most common incidents of life; and here we find it. Here, where the name of Rome, the mighty mistress of a world dead but unforgotten, was a familiar word — where even the common tillers of the soil recognized its sound, and applied it to the mighty forest lands that then were here, when in going and returning to their daily work they crossed the Tiber — how strangely has it happened that here, an empire greater than the mother of empires herself, has been estab- lished — that on the land called Rome a capitol is built, a senate house and a forum — that here a bridge spans the Tiber — that here is the mansion of a Chief Magistrate, and all the forms and more than the shadow of a vast republic. Every one will peruse with interest the follow- ing sketch of Washington as it was in ]800, from the pen of the late Hon. John Cotton Smith, then a member of Congress from Connecticut: " Our approach to the city was accompanied with sensations not easily described. One wing of the Capitol only had been erected, which, with the President's house, a mile distant from it, both con- structed with white sandstone, were shining objects in dismal contrast with the scene around them. Instead of recognising the avenues and streets por- trayed on the plan of the city, not one was visible, a4 18 PICTURE OF unless we except a road with two buildings on' each side of it, called the New Jersey avenue. The Pennsylvania, leading, as laid down on paper, from the capitol to the Presidential mansion, was then nearly the whole distance a deep morass, covered with alder bushes, which were cut through the width of the intended avenue during the then ensuing winter. Between the President's house and Georgetown a block of houses had been erected, which then bore, and may still bear, the name of the Six Buildings. There were also two other blocks, consisting of two or three dwelling houses, in different directions, and now and then an insulated wooden habitation; the inteiwening spaces, and, indeed, the surface of the city gener- ally, being covered with shrub-oak bushes on the higher grounds, and on the marshy soil either trees or some sort of shrubbery. Nor was the desolate aspect of the place a little augmented by a number of unfinished edifices at Greenleaf's Point, and on an eminence a short distance from it, commenced by an individual whose name they bore, but the slate of whose funds compelled him to abandon them, not only unfinished, but in a ruinous con- dition. There appeared to be but two really com- lortable habitations in all respects within the bounds of the city, one of which belonged to Dudley Car- roll, Esq., and the other to Notley Young, who> were the former proprietors of a large proportion WASHINC^TON. |^ of the land appropriated to the city, but who' reserved for their own accommodation ground suf-^ ficient for gardens and other useful appurtenances. The roads in every direction were muddy and unimproved. A sidewalk Was attempted in one instance by a covering formed of the chips of the stones which had been hewed for the capitol. It extended but a little way, and was of little value-, for in dry weather the sharp fragments cut our shoes and in wet weather covered them with white mortar. In short, it was a 'new settlement.' The houses, with two or three exceptions, had been very recently erected, and the operation greatly hurried in view of the approaching transfer of the National Government. A laudable desire was man- ifested by what few citizens and residents there tvrere, to render our condition as pleasant as cir- cumstances would permit. One of the blocks of buildings already mentioned was situated on the east side of what was intended for the capitol square, and, being chiefly occupied by an exten-^ sive and well-kept hotel, accommodated a goodly number of the members. Notwithstanding the' unfavorable aspect which "Washington presented on our arrival, I cannot sufficiently express my admiration of its local position. Prom the capitol you have a distinct view of its fine undulating sur- face, situated at the confluence of the Potomac and its eastern branch, the wide expanse of that ma- 20 PICTURE OF jestic river to the bend at Mount Vernon, the cities of Alexandria and Georgetown, and the cultivated fields and blue hills of Maryland and Virginia on either side of the river, the whole con- stituting a prospect of surjoassing beauty and grandeur. The city has also the inestimable ad- vantage of delightful water, in many instances flowing from copious springs, and always attain- able by digging to a moderate depth; to which may be added the singular fact that such is the due ad- mixture of loam and clay in the soil of a great portion of the city that a house may be built of brick made of the earth dug from the cellar; hence it was not unusual to see the remains of a brick- kiln near the newly erected dwelling house or other edifice. In short, when we consider not only these advantages, but what, in a national point of view, is of superior importance, the loca- tion on a fine navigable river, accessible to the whole maritime frontier of the United States, and yet easily rendered defensible against foreign in- vasion; and that, by the facilities of internal navi- gation and railways, it may be approached by the population of the Western States, and indeed of the whole nation, with less inconvenience than any other conceivable situation, we must acknowledge that its selection by Washington as the perma- nent seat of the Federal Government affords a striking exhibition of the discernment, wisdom WASHINGTON. 21 and forecast which characterized tliat illustrious man. Under this impression, whenever, during the six years of my connexion with Congress, the question of removing the seat of Government to some other place was agitated — and the proposition was frequently made — I stood almost alone as a northern man in giving my vote in the negative." The laws of Maryland and Virginia passed prior to 1802, very generally prevail in the juris- prudence of the District. The soil of Washington and its vicinity is not remarkably fertile, except along the margin of the streams, but it is very capable of improvement, and the mildness of the climate favors a great variety of products. In addition to the great staple pro- ductions of wheat, Indian corn, tobacco, and po- tatoes, both Irish and sweet, almost every variety of vegetables and fruits, not excepting the vine, may be cultivated to perfection. With these, few if any markets in the land, are more richly sup- plied than that of Washington. The chmate of Washington, thovigh sometimes sudden in its changes, is not surpassed in regard to salubrity by any in the Union, if in the world. Those who would duly estimate the beauty and magnificence of the Potomac River, must ascend it, particularly from Georgetown to above Harper's Ferry, where takes place the junction of the Shen- andoah with the main branch, rending asunder the 22 PICTURE OF Blue Ridge, and leaving on either side the broken and shattered rocks of immense height, as monu- ments of the force that has separated them. The waters of this noble river are frequented, particularly in the vicinity of Washington, by a great variety of the finest wild fowl, among which is the canvass-back duck, which feeds upon the Vallisneria Americana, found abundant in the swamps bordering the Potomac. This fowl is justly considered the greatest luxury which can be placed upon our tables. Wilson represents it in the i-ich, juicy tenderness of its flesh, and its deli- cacy of flavor, as unrivalled by the whole of its tribe, and those of the Chesapeake and Potomac as superior to all others, owing to the abundance of their favorite food produced in those rivers. The favorite region for the canvass-back is between Crany Island, some twenty -five miles below Wash- ington, and Analostan Island near Georgetown. The numbers have somewhat decreased of late in the neighborhood of Washington, owing, doubt- less, to the number of sharp shooters, who, in the winter and spring, are constantly in pursuit of them. Formerly, these ducks were only shot from the shore ; but of late years large numbers have been killed by persons who approach them in small skiffs, with long guns of large calibre, and who kill great numbers by a single discharge. Among other varieties of water fowl may also be mentioned WASHINGTON. 23 the swan, the wild goose, the red-head shoveler, the black-head shoveler, the duck and mallard, the black duck, the blue wing teal, and the widgeon. The swan frequents a section of the river about thirty miles be- low Washington. In the lower portions of the river wild geese are abundant. There is also found in the marshes along the Potomac a bird less than the snipe, called in Virginia the sora, and in Pennsyl- vania the rail, and sometimes, though improperly, in the middle States, ortolan. It is seen but for a few weeks, arriving early in September, and de- parting in October. Its natural history is obscure, but it is much sought for by sportsmen and con- stitutes a great delicacy. The shad and herring fisheries on the Potomac are sources of wealth to their owners, and of great public benefit. Rock fish are excellent and abun- dant, oysters plenty and of the finest quality, and, to the taste of many, the sturgeon is worthy a place on the choicest table. Among the numerous Halls designed and adapted for public meetings, are Odd Fellows' Hall, on seventh street, between the General Post Office and Pennsylvania avenue ; Jackson Hall, on Penn. av., between 3d and 4i streets ; Temperance Hall, on E St., bet. 9th and 10th ; Carusi's Saloon, on the corner of C and 11th sts.; Washington Hall, on Pennsylvania avenue, corner of 6th street ; and the Washington Assembly Rooms on Louisiana ave- 24 PICTURE OF nue, near the City Hall ; all of which are spacious and convenient edifices. The City Hall, after a handsome plan by George Hadfield, was commenced in 1820. Commanding a fine view in front, to the south, at the head of 4| street, on Louisiana avenue, this Hall has through the liberal appropriation of ^30,000 by Congress the last year, risen from its miserable half-formed condition into architectural beauty, and the south- ern front, with the wings, is now complete, and when in all parts.it shall be finished it cannot fail to be regarded as worthy of the metropolis of the Union. The circuit and criminal courts hold their sessions in this hall. In the eastern wing are the rooms of attorneys and the different ofiicers con- nected with the court. In the western wing are the offices of the mayor and corporation. A beau- tiful model of what this hall is to be when finished, adorned by porticoes, pillars, and piazzas, is depos- ited in the western wing, and the design is that the whole edifice shall be stuccoed so as to resemble marble. The proposed length of the front is two hundred feet. The City Post Office is in a convenient building on seventh street adjoining the General Post Office. It is open daily, from eight A. M. to nine P. M., except when assorting the mail, and on Sunday, when it is open from eight to nine A. M., from twelve to one, and from eight to nine P. M. VVASHINGTON. ^5 The Washington Asxjlum for the destitute is a large and convenient brick building, situated near the Congressional burying ground, and surrounded by an ample garden cultivated by such of the in- mates as are able to labor. It is under the man^ agement of a Board of Commissioners. An in- tendant, matron, and other necessary agents are appointed by the Mayor and Board of Commis- sioners} who have adopted judicious regulations for the conduct of the Institution. One hundred and ninety-six destitute and infirm persons were re- lieved in the asylum during the year ending June 30, 1847. A City Infirmanj, in the rear of the City Hall, has recently been opened. Congress hasi made an annual appropriation of two thousand dollars for the support of unfortunate strangers who in sickness may desire to find a refuge within its walls. Several young gentlemen of the Medical School are constantly in attendance — while the inmates enjoy daily the visits and counsels of the ablest physicians. The Jail of this city is a large brick building of Gothic form, three stories high, colored to resemble stone, and is well adapted to its purpose. It is situat- ed a little to the north of the City Hall. And both this and the City Infirmary are on Reservation nine* The Orphan Asylum was erected nearly twenty years ago, on what is called Mausoleum square j 26 I'TCTURE OF* and was largely indebted for its existence to the generosity of the late admirable and truly christian lady, Mrs. Van Ness. A society of benevolent ladies was formed in 1815 for the purpose of giving protection and aid to orphans, and Mrs. Madison v.'-as appointed first directress. Mrs, Van Ness became her successor, a!nd for several years devo- ted herself, with remarkable zeal and liberality, to the interests of those sneltered beneath the wings of this society. The association was incorporated by act of Congress in 1828. On the same square with the asylum stands an imposing mausoleum erected by General John P. Van Ness, in which are interred the remains of David Burns' family, and since, those of the family of General Van Ness, including those of his lamented daughter, Mrs. Middleton, and his accomplished lady. This mausoleum is said to be a copy of the temple of Vesta at Rome. The St. Vincent^s Orphan Jlsylum, at the intersec- tion of G and 10th streets has been rebuilt on a noble scale, and is liberally sustained by the Ro- man Catholics. It is one among many of the striking evidences of the zeal and resolution with which the members of this communion devote them- selves to what they regard as works of charity and [)iety. The Market Housea are four in number. Tiie Centrp Market, on Pennsylvania avenuf, isproba- WASHINGTON. 27 bly not excelled in the abundance and quality of its supplies by any in the Union. Hotels and Boarding Houses in Washington are numerous and excellent: Among them may be mentioned Gadsby's, at the corner of Pennsylvania Avenue and Third street. Brown's, with a marble front; the National, (Calvert's,) Pennsylvania Avenue and Sixth street; the United States, (Willard's,) at the intersection of 14th street and Pennsylvania Avenue; the Irving House, (Tho- mas',) Pennsylvania Avenue and Twelfth street; Dorset's, on Seventh street; the Exchange, on C street; and Beer's Temperance Hotel, on Third street. The number of respectable boarding houses is large. Owing to the great number of strangers who visit Washington during the session of Congress, the demand for accommodations is great, and new and well directed efforts are annually made to supply it. Those who are best competent to judge on the sub- ject, areof opinion that the number of hotels atpresent is rather deficient than excessive, and it is probable that each successive year will witness a large aug- mentation in the number who may resort to Wash- ington for purposes of business, improvement, or pleasure. Ptihlic Schools. — Great efforts have been made recently to increase the number, and improve the chfirncter of the public schools. The public schools of Washington, are now conducted essentiaily on 28 PICTURE Oi' the same principles, as those in the larger towns of Massachusetts. They are divided into primary and district schools, with a high school, to go into operation during the present year. The primary schools are fifteen, taught by seventeen females and three males, and the district schools, four, taught by four male principal teachers, and three female, and two male assistants — in all twenty-nine teachers, to each of whom is assigned seventy pupils. In a portion of the primary schools, females are only received; in others males; and in the remainder, males and females. Wherever the sexes are sepa- rated in these schools , teachers and parents have found increased satisfaction. The expense of these pub- lic schools is about $12,000, of which $3,000 is derived from the interest of the school fund, about |5,000 from the capitation tax, and the remainder from the general fund of the city. The following general summary is taken from the late Report of the Board of Trustees: Number of District Schools 4 Do. Primary Schools 15 Do. Male Principals of District Schools 4 Do. Male Assistants in District Schools 2 Do. Female Assistants in District Schools 3 Do. Male Teachers of Primary Schools 3 Do. Female Teachers of Primary Schools 12 WASHINGTON. 29 Number of Female Assistants in Primary- Schools 5 Do. Pupils at the commencement of the school year 1,456 Do. Pupils at the end of the school year 1,889 Whole nvunber admitted through the year.. 2,611 Average attendance 1,397 Number of schools or apartments in which boys only are received 6 Do. schools or apartments in which girls only are received 4 Do. schools or apartments in which boys and girls are received 12 Do. months taught by the teachers in all the schools last year 292 Do. months lost by absence of pupils (being nearly one-eighth of the school time, and two schools not being reported.) 37 Many Schools and Seminaries for the education of both sexes exist in different parts of the city, seve- ral of them of a high and well established charac- ter, where instruction in all the usual branches of knowledge can be obtained for a reasonable com- pensation. Among these should be mentioned, for young ladies, the schools of the Rev. Mr. Noble on Thirteenth street — the Rev. Mr. Cushman's, on Louisiana Avenue, near the City Hall — the Rev 30 PICTURE OF Mr. Clark's, corner of Ninth and E streets — the Misses Tyson's, on F street — the CathoUc Institu- tion, on the same — and for boys, the Rev. James Nourse's Central Academy, corner of Tenth and E streets — Mr. Morrison's seminary, near Franklin Row — Philip's Academy on C street — the acade- ■*• my of Mr. Wight, Indiana Avenue — and the school in connexion with the church of the Ro- man Catholics, on F street. Public attention is strongly directed to these institutions, and perhaps in no other city are there to be found superior ad- vantages of education, which are annually on the increase. There are also several excellent board- ing schools. The Washington Library is owned by an associa- tion of citizens, and was incorporated by Congress in 1814. The number of volumes belonging to this library is above six thousand, and many of the works are valuable, and embrace a great variety in the departments of letters and science. Sharehold- ers are entitled to take books from this library un- der certain restrictions; and a Board of Directors, who elect annually a president, treasurer, and libra- rian, manage the affairs of the Institution. This library is open daily from three to six P. M. in a building owned by the company on eleventh street west, a few doors south of Pennsylvania Avenue. The Ubrary of Peter Force, Esq., is one of the most rare and valuable in the United States. This WASHINGTON. 3| gentleman has greatly distinguished himself in his researches and labors to compile the Documentary- History of the United States, and has spared no pains nor expense to collect all works, as well as all curious manuscripts which may serve to illus- trate the times and characters which such a history should represent. This library of Mr. Force ex- tends to some 25,000 or 30,000 volumes, and is probably the most rich in materials for American history and biography of any in the world. Mr. Charles King's Gallery of Paintings, on Twelfth street, near F, will be found in a neat edi- fice erected for it by the excellent artist, its pro- prietor, and is highly attractive, embracing in two apartments more than two hundred and sixty paint- ings, among them portraits of distinguished per- sons, and a number of them works of great merit, Mr. King has exhibited much taste in the arrange- ment of his paintings, and many of them the pro- ductions of his own pencil, are admirably executed. Mr. Gibson has been much distinguished by one or two panoramas, and some paintings of high ex- cellence. Mr. William M'Leod, a young landscape painter, who has risen by the force of his genius to distinction, since the last edition of chis work, has removed to New York. Mr. ./. Wilson, who cut very beautiful cameos, and has recently shown extraordinary talent for sculpture, is about to em- bark for Italy to pursue his studies in his chosen 32 PICTURE OF arts. He is a young artist of the highest promise. Capt. Eastman has produced many pictures, par- ticularly of western scenery and Indian Ufe, of great merit, and from them are derived nag,ny of the illustrations that adorn the great work of Henry Schoolcraft on Indian history, character and manners. Mr. Arthur Stansbury takes sketches of persons and scenery with great accuracy and spirit. Mr. William J. Stone has shown great abil- ity in sculpture and intends to devote his life to the art. Various accompUshed artists generally visit and reside in the city during the winter season. Mr. Chauncey Warriner is the inventor of the self-acting meteorological register, which includes in one and the same instrument a chronometer, rain gauge, tide measurer, thermometer, barom- eter, and a contrivance to measure and mark the velocity of the wind. This machine registers its own operations and is very ingenious. Mr. War- riner is at present occupied in making improve- ments in the machines for the telegraph company, and has shown remarkable mechanical powers. Mr. Frederick Russell, a citizen of Washington, has devoted much time and thought to the con- struction of an instrument designed to illustrate the various motions of the heavenly bodies. He has given to this instrument the name of the Urano- scope, and the following description of its move- ments and uses has been published : WASHINGTON. 33 "The Uranascope is in the form of a sphere, of more than five feet in diameter, composed of metal rods or bars, so arranged as to represent all the meridians, parallels of latitude, and primary circles usually marked on artificial globes. If the room in which the instrument is shown have a vaulted ceiUng, and all other light be excluded from it, ex- cept that which comes from a lamp fixed in the centre of the globe, the exhibition of the various planetary phenomena will be beautifully distinct and perfect. The meridians and circles will make defined shadows on the face of the vault, while the sun, moon, stars, and planets of various magni- tudes will, on the contrary, cast upon it their ra- diant reflection. A transparent covering, upon which are painted several hundred stars and the figures of tVe constellations, may be thrown over the globe at pleasure, and thus the vaulted ceiling becomes at once a perfect representation of the celestial hemisphere. By means of the machinery, its natural motion is given to the earth, and all the phenomena of the rising and setting of the heavenly bodies are brought before the beholder. Every object is seen in its appropriate place ; and by changing the machinery, which consists of many varieties, to be substituted at pleasure, a better illustration than it is possible to give in words, is shown of the precession of the equinoxes, the equation of time, the eccentricities of the comet, and many 34 PICTURE OF other phenomena which no other instrument could adequately explain. Besides the phenomena already mentioned, it may be used to illustrate the aspect of the heavens as seen from the earth in every lati- tude ; the apparent annual course of the sun through the signs of the zodiac ; the moon through her monthly course ; her retrogade motion of nodes, and what are called harvest moons ; eclipses in all their varieties ; acceleration of the stars ; comets in every form of ellipse ; the revolution of the double stars ; and, indeed, a very full and accurate view of the various changes in the heavens." It is hoped that the Smithsonian Institution or some seminary of science may enable Mr. Russel to con- struct his instrument on an ample scale, and show all its advantages. POPULATION OF WASHINGTON, According to the Census of 1850. Whites 29,815 Free Colored 8,073 Slaves 2,113 Total 40,001 CHURCHES. BAPTIST. First— Rev. S. P. Hill, 10th street west, between E and F north. Second — Rev. , corner of 4| street east and Virginia avenue. W A S H r N G T O N . 35 E Street — Rev. , E street north, between 6th and 7th west. Shiloh — Rev. , Virginia avenue, be- twee 4| and 6th streets west, near Navy Yard. CATHOLIC. St. Mathew's — Rev. James B. Donelan, H street north, between ]4th and 15th west. St. Patrick's— Very Rev. Wm. Mathews, and M. Slattery, assistant, F street north, between 9th and 10th west. St. Peter's — Rev. Mr. Lanahan, 2d street east, between C and D south. St. Mary's— Rev. Mr. Alig, 5th street west, be- tween G and H. EPISCOPAL. Christ — Rev. W. Hodges, G. street south, be- tween 6th and 7th east. Church of the Ascension — Rev. Levin Gilh's, H street north, between 9th and 10th west. Church of the Epiphaiiy — Rev. John W. French, G street north, between 13th and 14th west. St. John's — Rev. Smith Pine, corner of 16th street west, and H street north. Trinity— Rev. C. M. Butler, D. D., corner of 3d street west and C street north. FRIENDS. I Street, north side, between 18th and 19th 36 PICTURE OF LUTHERAN. English — Rev. Mr. Butler, corner of 11th street west, and H street north. German — Rev. Mr. Finckle, G street north, be- tween 19th and 20th street west. METHODIST EPISCOPAL. Ebenezer — Rev. Thomas Myers, 4th street east, between F and G south. Foundry — Rev. L. F. Morgan, corner of 14th street west and G street north. Wesley Chapel — Rev. W. B. Edwards, corner of F street north and 5th street west. McKendree Chapel — Rev. Wm. Hamihon, Mas- sachusetts avenue, near 9th street west. Ryland Chapel — Rev. J. S. Gorsuch, corner of Maryland avenue and 10th street west. METHODIST EPISCOPAL SOUTH. Rev. Mr. Bennett, 8th street north, between H and I west. METHODIST PROTESTANT. Rev. W. T. Eva, 9th street west, between E and F north. Rev. , corner of Virginia avenue and 5th street east. PRESBYTERIAN. First — Rev. Mr. Ballatine, 4| street west, between C and D north. WASHINGTON. 37 Second — Rev. J. R. Eckard, between New York avenue and H street north, and between 13th and 14th streets west. F Street — Rev. James Laurie, D. D., and Rev. D. junkin Christian, F street north, between 14lh and 15th streets west. Fourth — Rev. John C. Smith, 9th street west, between G and H streets north. Unitarian. Rev. Mr. Dewey, corner of D street north and 6th street west. 38 PICTURE OF BURIAL GROUNDS. Generations pass while somfe trees stand, and old families last not three oaks. Oblivion is not to be hired. The greater part must be content to be as though they had not been ; to be found in the register of God, not in the record of man. Twenty-seven names make up the first storj- before the flood, and the recorded names ever since contain not one living century. — Sir Thomas Browne. In the vicinity of the city are several neat and convenient cemeteries. Western Burial ground, situated at the northern extremity of twentieth street, a little east of Rock Creek, is a quiet attractive spot, where grief may wander unmolested, and sad affec- tion gather solace from the kindly aspect and gentle ministeries of nature. The National or Congressional Burial Ground, is more imposing. This spot was selected in the year 1807, by a few of the citizens of Washington, and subsequently was placed under the direction of the vestry of Christ Church, an incorporated body. This cemetery is situated more than a mile east of the Capitol, embraces about ten acres, commands an extensive view of the country, is well enclosed with a brick wall, laid out with taste, and adorned with many shrubs and trees and impressive and beautiful monuments. In addition to several private vaults, is one spacious and well constructed, enclosed by a ?!-- ■f u .¥ IP'. WASHINGTON. 39 neat iron railing, built at the expense and by order of Congress, as a place of deposite for the dead, whose remains it may be the purpose of friends subsequently to remove. Measures have been adopted to enlarge this cemetery, and some twenty acres additional will soon be brought within its limits. It is hoped that the entire enclosure may contain not less than fifty acres, and that the whole area may be planted and adorned with the good taste and judgment which render the cemeteries of Mount Auburn and Greenwood, so inviting to pen- sive minds. " Tis too late," says a venerable old author, " to be ambitious. The great mutations of the world are acted, or time may be too short for our designs. To extend our memories by monuments, whose death we daily pray for, and whose duration we cannot hope, without injury to our expectations in the advent of the last day, were a contradiction to our belief. We whose generations are ordained in the setting part of time are providentially broken off from such imaginations, and, being necessi- tated to eye the remaining particle of futurity, are naturally constituted unto thoughts of the next world, and cannot excusably decline the considera- tion of that duration which maketh pyramids pillars of snow, and all that is past a monument." But human affections are stronger than argument, and will be found reai'ing monuments until old Time 40 PICTURE OF himself is entombed among the ruins of the uni- verse. Two of the most imposing and expensive monu- Tnents in this cemetery are those erected to the memories of George Clinton, by his children, and to Elbridge Gerry, by order of Congress. These are in the northeast corner. In the southwest cor- ner ate several handsome, and some of them re- cently erected, monuments. Among them is a fine marble shaft standing upon a square pedestal, reared by Congress to the memory of Major Gene- ral Jacob Brown, born m Bucks county, Pennsyl- vania, May 5th, 1775, died 24th February, 1828. " By birth, by education, by principle, devoted to peace. In defence of his country and in vindica- tion of her rights, a wai-rior. To her he dedicated his life ; wounds received in her cause abridged his days." Here also stands an imposing marble monument, erected by the officers of the medical staff to the memory of Joseph Lovel, M. D., for many years Surgeon General of the army of the United States, born in 1788, died in 1836. A pyra- midal monument, erected by his father. Commo- dore Rogers, is inscribed to Midshipman Rogers, who was drowned at the early age of seventeen, while engaged in noble efforts to save the lives of two of his companions, Midshipman Slidell and Harrison, who perished with him in 1828. A single marble monument is dedicated to the memo- WASHINGTON. 4| ries of Abel Parker Upshur and Commodore Bev- erly Kennon, bearing the following inscription : «• The lamented men who lie together beneath this stone where united by the ties of friendship, which commenced in youth, and experienced no interrup- tion till the awful moment when the lives of both were terminated by the explosion of the great gun of the Princeton frigate : United in life, in death they were not divided." A very fine white marble monument, made to represent exactly the mast of a ship violently broken off, is reared to the memory of the late George Mifflin Bache, of the brig Washington, and his associates who perished with him in the hurricane of September 3, 1846. " The gulf stream which they were engaged in exploring has received their bodies ; this monument has been erected to their memory by their shipmates who shared their perils, but escaped their fate." One of the most beautiful and touching memorials of aflfection is a marble monument reared to com- memorate the virtues of Captain Burdell Ashton Tei-rett, United States dragoons, who died at Fort Scott, Missouri, March 17, 1845. It bears on one side, " my husband," and a brief tribute conclud- ing "and thy memory to me what the dew is to the rose ;" on the other, " Our boy : Died at Fort Scott, Missouri, March 15, 1845, James Bludworth Terrett, aged one month : Suffer little children to come unto me, and forbid them not, for of such is 42 PICTURE OF the kingdom of Heaven." Among the other monu- ments of striking interest, and chaste and beautiful design, may be mentioned one erected by Peter Von Schmidt to " Mariana," his wife, a native of Courtland, in Russia ; one of marble and granite, inscribed to " Mary Ann," and several children of Charles Coltman ; one of very fine proportions sacied to "Eliza, wife of G. C. Grammer ;" a granite one to the late Judge Thurston ; one to Judge Pendleton Barbour, adorned by many shrubs and flowers ; and one of peculiar simplicity and elegance, dedicated to " our father," by the children of Peter Lenox. Here in this secluded spot, this abode of silence, rest the remains of many members of Congress, and over the grave of each is erected a plain sand- stone monument, painted white, and marked with the name of the deceased, also specifying the State from which he came, and the time of his death. We paused a moment as we read the names of Pinckney and of Lowndes, whose eloquent voices so often enchained their audiences with delight and admiration. The Roman poet would have inscribed over these great men, Palma nobilis terra- rum Dominos evehit ad Deos ; but perhaps the re- flection of Job is more becoming this house ap- pointed for all the living : " He leadeth princes away spoiled and overthroweth the mighty." Let our statesmen, amid the excitement of public life, WASHINGTON. 43 seek occasional retirement from the capitol, to meditate among the shaded walks of this cemetery, and these thickening emblems of mortality, that, in the deep silence and amid the graves of the dead, they may learn wisdom. Within view of the dome of the capitol, they will call to mmd the lines of nature's great poet — "Like the baseless fabric of this vision, The cloud-capp'd towers, the gorgeous palaces. The solemn temples, the great globe itself, Yea, all which it inherit, shall dissolve. And, like this insubstantial pageant faded, Leave not a rack behind." It may be proper to add, that this Burial Ground has recently been much enlarged and improved by the addition of the square immediately to the south, thus extending the ground to the top of the hill which overlooks the Eastern Branch, and the beautiful and rapidly improving grounds that lie on the opposite side of that river. Ground has also been pur- chased from the United States, with the view of extending the cemetery 286 feet farther east ; and from its position it is capable of being so adorned, as to render this cemetery among the most interesting and attractive in the Union. The books and plans of the ground are kept with care, in order to prevent any 44 PICTURE OF encroachment upon sites that have been sold. This cemetery is the pki,ce of repose (o many dis- tinguished strangers, and about 6,000 persons have been here interred. CAPITOL, TJie Capitol of the United States stands on an eminence, eighty-seven feet above tide water, about a mile east of the Potomac, commanding a full view of the cities of Washington, Georgetown, and Alexandria, and the varied and forest-clad hills in Maryland and Virginia. This building was commenced in 1793. The dimensions are as fol- lows : The enclosure within the iron railing contains thirty acres ; length of foot-walk outside of railing a little upwards of one r^^ile ; extent of building, one acre and a half, and eighteen hundred and twenty feet ; length of front, 352^ feet ; depth of wing, 121 5 ; east projection and steps, 65 ; west projection and steps, 83 ; height of wings to top of balustrade, 70 ; height to top of centre dome, 145 ; length of Senate chamber, 74 ; height of Senate chamber, 42 ; length of Representatives' room, 95 ; height of Representatives' room, 60; height of great central rotundo to the commencement of the small curve, 96 ; to the skylight, 122^ ; diameter of great central Rotundo, 96. The cost of the Capitoit -^t ^-^ r^i .J-^ «Mf ^^,f^-' "M r r- ')r'^ WASHINGTON, 45 Was nearly two millions of dollars. The building is surrounded by a balustrade of stone, and covered with a lofty dome in the centre, and a flat dome on each wing. The exterior presents a rusticated basement of the height of the first story ; the two other stories are comprised in a Corinthian elevation of pilasters and columns. The columns are thirty feet in height, and compose a portico on the eastern front of one hundred and sixty feet in extent, the centre of which is crowned by a tympanum, embellished with a group of statuary, the composition of John Gluincy Adams, then President of the United States, offered by him after forty designs had been rejected. The Genius of America, a. colossal figure, holds in her right hand an oval shield, resting lightly on a slender altar, on the front of which is an oaken wreath in bas relief with the words "July 4, 1776," within it. A spear rests behind, a star surmounts her head, which is turned towards the figure of Hope, who gazes with smiling animation, and, while her left arm rests on an anchor, lifts her right in exultation, and as though anticipating the glory of the republic. The Genius points with one hand to her shield and spear, and with the other to Justice having in her hand the constitution of the Uniied States. Justice, with eyes raised towards heaven, holds in her right hand the constitution, and in her left the scales emblematical of her office ; b2 WASHINGTON. 47 and she has neither bandage nor sword, showing that with us justice is clear-sighted respecting the rights of all. The moral is that America will re- gard only public rights and the preservation of the constitution. An eagle, finished with great teauty, is at the feet of the Genius, its head is raised and its wings partly expanded, as if ready to fly at her command. This group was executed by Persico. On the southern abutment of the grand steps is Persico 's group, the Discovery of America. It consists of two marble figures^ — Columbus, having landed for the first time upon the shores of America, and an In- dian female startled at the appearance of a stranger of an unknown race. The group well represents the character of Columbus, the contrast between the European and the Indian, and the triumph of sci- ence and perseverance in the discovery of a new world ; while it but too clearly foreshadows the fading away of the red men before the face of the whites. The armor upon the statue of Columbus is said to be accurate to a rivet, having been copied from a suit in the palace of the descendants of the discoverer at Genoa. Persico was employed five years upon this group. On the north side of the great entrance door from the Portico to the Rotundo, stands the statue of War, also by Persico. It is made of Carrara marble, and is about nine feet high. War is rep- resented in the costume of an ancient warrior. illlKnilMiiiilllllllilMlllllHillllllllllli!l llllllli:iiiiillliiniliiiliHiiiiiii|iN|iiiiiiiiMniiiiiimii!»iii|im i|Mi^i7flTnT™!lTTMTTllIWTri'in^^ 11',- If OOLITMBUS. WASHINGTON. 49 His helmet presses upon his brow, and his breast is covered with the iron corslet. He leans with his right hand upon his shield, and with his left brings his sword up to his heart, across which it lies in readiness for combat. His eyes are lowering with anger, and his whole attitude indicates a roused and excited temper. There is, however, nothing fierce in the expression. A manly sense of power and right, and calm indignation, seem to pervade the figure. The finish given to this statue is very high. On the other side of the door stands the beatific figure of Peace. The maiden, clothed in a simple garb, is in the act of extending the olive branch to her warlike brother. A smile of calm and sublime repose hovers about her eyes, and her attitude is one of simple and guileless innocence. Entering the Rotundo the beholder is struck by its extent, height, and beautiful proportions. The panels of this magnificent circular hall are appro- priated to paintings and to bas-reUefs of historical subjects. Four of the panels of the Rotundo are occupied by Trumbull's great Historical Paintings, which merit more than a passing notice. Colonel Trum- bull, the artist, a son of the first Governor Trum- bull, of Lebanon, Connecticut, was one of the aids-de-camp of General Washington in the first year of the Revolution, and in 1776 was Deputy b3 WAR. PEAOJS. 52 PICTURE OF Adjutant General of the northern department under General Gates. Shortly after the Revolution he devoted himself to the study of the art of painting, first in this country, and afterwards in Europe, In 1786 he produced in London his great historical picture of the battle of Bunker's Hill. He com- municated at that time to our Minister in London, Mr. John Adams, and Mr. Jefferson in Paris, his purpose of executing several pictures commem- orative of some of the principal events of the Rev- olution. In 1789 Colonel Trumbull returned to the United States, and having obtained the portraits of General Washington, and several other distinguished men then in New York, he subsequently visited many parts of the country to collect others; but it was not until 1816, that Congress by resolution author- ized the execution of the four paintings which now, from his pencil, adorn the capitol, and will trans- mit to coming generations a vivid and correct view of the patriots whose valor and wisdom secured independence to the United States. Declaration of Independence. — The artist spared neither labor nor expense to present correct like- nesses of the great men who gave this immortal instrument to the world. Tlie costume of the time is carefully preserved; the room is copied from that in which Congress then held their sessions, though the back-ground is embellished with som^^ WASFIINGTON. 53 military trophies, and the entire scene is one of the most impressive that can be imagined. Surrender of Burgoyne, 11th October, 1777.— This painting represents General Burgoyne, attended by General Phillips, and followed by other officers, drawing near the marquee of General Gates. , Gen. Gates has advanced a few steps from the entrance to meet his prisoner, who, with General Phillips, has dismounted, and is in the act of offering his sword, which General Gates declines to receive, and invites them to enter and partake of refresh- ments. Fish Creek and the North river are seen in the distance, and troops crossing the meadows, and officers on horseback precede the head of the column and follow the dismounted Generals. Surrender of Lord CornwaUis at Yorktown, October 19, 1781. — Lord CornwaUis surrendered to the combined forces of America and France, and the honor of marching out of town, which had been refused to General Lincoln, when he surrendered during the preceding campaign at Charleston, was denied him. The British troops marched out be- tween the lines of the American and French troops to a place appointed, grounded and left their arms, and returned unarmed to town. "The painting represents the moment when the principal officers of the British army, conducted by General Lin- coln, are passing the two groups of American and French Generals, and entering between the two b4 54 PICTURE OF lines of the victors. By this means the principal officers of the three nations are brought near to- gether, so as to admit of distinct portraits. The portraits of the French officers were obtained in Paris in 1787, and were painted from living men in the house of Mr. Jefferson, then Minister to France." Resignation of General Washington at Annapolis, December 23, 1783. — After bidding farewell to his old comrades in the war, General Washington hastened to Annapolis, and there resigned his com- mission to Congress. The Maryland Gazette, in allusion to the resignation by General Washington, remarked : '* Here we must let fall the scene — few tragedies ever drew more tears from so many beautiful eyes, as were affected by the moving manner in which his Excellency took his final leave of Congress. After which he immediately set out for Virginia, accompanied to South river, by his excellency our Governor, with the warmest wishes of the city for his repose, health, and hap- piness. Long may he enjoy them." Besides Trumbull's four paintings, are three others, leaving still one vacant panel. Baptism of Pocahontas. — This picture is by Mr. J. G. Chapman, and represents a beautiful inci- dent in the life of one whose history will ever be interesting to Americans, and whd^is said to have been the first convert to the Christian faith from the 4 WAStllNGTON. 55 Indians of North America. *' Pocahontas is kneel- ing on the steps of the rude baptismal font, in an attitude of deep humihty and devotion; her dress is pure white, with a snowy mantle of swan's skin, tipped with plumage, just falling from her shoul- ders. Her hair flows negligently over her neck and back, and her features and complexion are those of the Indian, though less beautiful than she is said to have been in life." A beautiful portrait of her is preserved in Colonel M'Kenney's work on the Indians. The chapel in which the scene occurs is copied from one of the earliest rustic churches. Pocahontas was well instructed in Chris- tianity, and Smith relates, that " after her baptism she never had a desire to live with her father or his people, who would by no means turn from their idolatry, that thereby they might confess the true faith, which she embraced with all her heart, from that time mourning her former blindness and im- becility. Her poor dear father, she said, altlwugh at times, he was not angry with her, yet would by no means give up an idolatrous religion to which he had been so long used." Eiabarkation of the Pilgrims. — This picture, by Weir, represents a scene of pathetic interest, when the pilgrim fathers of New England have just embarked from a port of Holland on their high en- terprize, and the venerable Robinson is commend- ing them to Heaven, when about to spread their 56 PICTURE OF sails for the new world. Religion is the presiding vspirit of the scene, though Standish kneels like a soldier , and the whole company seem of those whose fear of God has expelled all other fear. One is re- minded of the fine lines by Mrs. Hemans — Not as the conqueror comes, Thej-, the true hearted, caine ; Not with the roll of the stirring drums, And the trumpet that sings of fame ; Not as the flying come, In silence and in fear ; Tiiey shook the depths of the desert gloom. With their hymns of lofty cheer. The Landing of Columbus in the J^ew World. — This picture is by Vanderlyn, and, though diffe- rent opinions have been, expressed of its merits, all must be struck with the resolution and devotion blended in the aspect of Columbus, as he bears the standard of civilization, and points the sword of authority tow^ards the earth, dedicating, with uplift- ed eye towards heaven, the new world to the Divine Author of Christianity. Over each of the four entrances to the Rotundo is sculptured, in a panel, a scene from American history. Over the northern door leading to the Senate Chamber, is a representation of William Penn; under a spreading elm, engaged in making a ^^^^^^^si rp^^x^^^^-^T^ PEWN-'S TREATY. BOONE & INDIANS. 58 PICTURE OF treaty with the Indiana. This work is by Gesze- lot, a Frenchman. On the panel over the southern door, leading to the Hall of the House of Representatives, is Daniel Boone, the hero and pioneer of Kentucky, engaged in conflict with the Indians. The figures are of colossal size. Boone's aspect is calm and intrepid; the face of the Indian in combat, ferocious; and at the feet of the warriors is the form of a dead In- dian, which is thought admirably to express the proud spirit of a fallen savage, unsubdued even in death. This is by Causici. Some years ago, a band of Winnebagos came through the Rotundo. They were all noble looking fellows, dressed in their own barbaric uniform. Their faces were painted of various colors, in their belts were their scalping knives and tomahawks, and over their backs their long iron-looking bows and arrows. — As they were passing through the Rotundo, their attention was arrested by this group of statuary — Boone killing the Indian. They formed a semi- circle, and the head man stepped forward and stood before the rest. They looked intently for some moments, scrutinizing and recognizing every part of the scene, and suddenly, as of one impulse, they raised their dreadful war-cry and ran hurried- ly fi'om the hall. Over the eastern door is represented the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers upon the rock of Plymouth. WASHINGTON. 59 The boat has just touched the foot iDf the rock, and in the prow is a pilgrim in ihe act of landing. His little son seems to caution him ere he ventures among the savages. But the mother, w^ith her eyes elevated to Heaven, places her trust there, and restrains the boy. Seated on the rock is an Indian, holding in his hand an ear of corn, as an emblem of friendship. The conception of this work is noble — how could it be otherwise, commemorating one of the sublimest incidents in the annals of mankind ? In a panel over the western door of the Rotundo, is the rescue of Captain Smith from the Indians, by the Indian Princess Pocahontas, executed by Cap- palano. The Hall of the Representatives is in the second story of the south wing, and is of the form of the ancient Grecian theatre. The chord of the largest dimension is ninety-six feet. The height to the highest point of the ceiling of the dome is sixty feet. This room is surrounded by twenty-four columns of variegated marble, from the banks of the Potomac, with capitals of white Italian marble, carved, by Andrei, after the Corinthian order still remaining among the ruins of Athens. The dome is rich and grand, similar to the Pantheon of Rome, and executed by a young Italian artist, Bonani, now dead. Light is admitted through a cupola over the centre of the dome. The Speaker's chair LANDING OF THE PILGRIMS. CAPTAIN SMITH & POCAHONTAS. g2 PICTUREOF is elevated above the floor, and canopied; above itj and under an arch, is the statue of Liberty, by Causici; and on the entablature beneath is an Ame- rican eagle, copied from nature by an Italian artist, Valaperte, who has left but this one specimen of his talent in this country. In front of the Speaker's chair and immediately over the entrance to the hall, is a marble statue of History recording the events of the nation. She is standing on a winged car, traversed by the signs of the zodiac, the wheel of the car composed of a clock. The whole is of beautiful structure and design. It was executed by lardella, an Italian. On one side of the recess is a portrait of Lafay- ette, executed in full length by a French artistj and said to be an admirable likeness of the illus- trious Frenchman. Opposite to this, to correspond, is a portrait of Washington, painted by Vanderlyn. Between the columns at this base, are sofas placed for persons admitted by rule and privilege to the floor of the House; while in the area sit the members at mahogany desks. The northern door of the Rotundo leads into the vestibule of the Senate Chamber. This chamber is adorned by a screen of Ionic columns, after those of the temple of Minerva Polias. These columns support the gallery to the east, and a new gallery of iron pillars and railings prop it from the semi- circular wall to the west, and support a gallery for €!LOOK IN REPRESENTATIVES' HALL, Q4 PICTURE OF the use of ladies. I'he chair of the president is a canopied elevation under the eastern gallery and overlooks the floor of the Senate. In the area, the Senators sit in a semi-circular form, each at his mahogany desk. Over the President's chair is an admirable portrait of Washington, by Charles Wilson Peale. In the basement of the north wing is the Su- preme Court Room of the United States. The Library Room is constructed with great taste and beauty, is ninety-two feet in length, thirty-four in width, and thirty -six in length, having alcoves, over which are two galleries extending throughout the apartment. The room is handsomely orna- mented, and light is admitted both from ample win- dows and from three skylights above. The archi- tect of this room was Mr. G. Bulfinch. There is a pleasant retired apartment on the north, suitable for persons who may desire a quiet place for writing or study. Mr. Jefferson's library, embracing about seven thousand volumes, was purchased in 1815, for ^23,000, and the whole number of volumes, which have been selected with care, is near fort)' thousand. Mr. George Watterston w^as appointed Librarian in 1816 ; the present librarian, Mr. Mee- han, was appointed in 1829. A small annual ap- propriation is made by Congress for the increase of this library, and purchases are made under the direction of a joint committee of both houses. The PEALE'S WASHINGTON. QQ PICTURE OF books are well arranged, and every attention is paid to those who may desire to avail themselves of its advantages. The library is open daily, Sundays excepted, during the session of Congress, from nine to three, and from five to seven, P. M., and in the absence of Congress on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, during the same hours. The privilege of taking books from the library is restricted to members of Congress, and officers of the General Government. The President having been authorized by an act of the last session of Congress to enlarge the Capitol, and an appropriation of $100,000 having been made for that purpose for the commencement of the work, the plan of Mr. Walter, of Philadel- phia, was adopted for the addition of two wings. The corner stone of the southern extension was laid on the 4th of July of the present year, (]851,) in the presence of the President and Cabinet, a large and imposing military array, and an immense concourse of citizens. The same masonic imple- ments used by Washington on the occasion of lay- ing of the first corner stone of the Capitol, were used on this occasion by B. B. French, Grand Master of the District of Columbia. When thus enlarged, the Capitol will be made one of the most imposing edifices in the world. WASHINGTON. Q'J NAVAL MONUMENT. Near the western entrance to the Capitol stands the monument erected by the officers of the Navy to the memory of their brother officers who fell in the war with Tripoli. It stood originally at the Navy Yard, but was removed a few years since to the Capitol grounds. It is of marble, and about forty feet high. On one side of the base is a view of Tripoli and the American fleet ; on another, the words " To the memory of Sommers, Caldwell, De- catur, Wadsworth, Dorsey, Israel;" and on another, their epititph — a brief, but comprehensive and elo- quent history. At the base of the column are four marble emblematic figures, Mercury, Fame, His- tory, and America. The column has appropriate embellishments, and is surmounted by an eagle. CAPITOL GROUNDS. The grounds around the Capitol, as well as around the President's House, have recently been planted and adorned with taste, and afford, in the mild seasons of the year, inviting and shady walks, much frequented by citizens and strangers. Much yet remains to be done, and each successive year reveals some new improvement ; and when the NAVAL MONUMENT. WASHINGTON. gg Smithsonian Institution shall be completed, and its gardens brought under cultivation, when the grounds around the Observatory shall be properly laid out, and enriched with flowers and shrubbery, and es- pecially when the entire extended mall which opens from the Capitol to the Potomac, shall exhibit noble elms, sycamore, oak, and other trees, beneath the shade of which may gather the meditative, the young, and the beautiful, where our statesmen may wander and refresh themselves when weary of political cares and incessant agitations, our scholars gain strength for their quiet labors, and visiters from remote States and distant countries contemplate with admiration the opening evidences that here in a city bearing the immortal name of Washington, art, science, and liberty dwell in peace- ful communion, their lights blending, as reflected from numerous imposing monuments, and mingling with those more soft and cheering from the more varied scenery of nature; this city will become what its great Founder intended, and be worthy of the nation which he conducted to liberty and inde- pendence. PRESIDENT'S HOUSE. Strangers in the Metropolis visit with eager curi- osity, as one of the first objects of interest, the President's mansion. It is situated in the western 70 PICTURE OF part of the city, on a plat of ground of twenty- acres, forty-four feet above high water. It has a southern and northern front, the southern com- manding a lovely view of the Potomac. On both fronts the grounds are laid out with taste, and planted with forest trees and shrubbery. The walks are of gravel, broad, and delightful. The mansion is of two stories, one hundred and seventy feet front, and eighty-six feet deep, and is built of white free stone, with Ionic pilasters. The north- ern front is ornamented with a lofty portico of four Ionic columns in front, and projecting with three columns. Beneath this portico drive the carriages of visiters. Immediately opposite the front door, across a large open vestibule or hall, is the Reception Room. The paper of this room is very beautiful, of a pearl white, with a small gilt figure. The carpet is said to be of American manufacture in imitation of Brussels. The ground is of fawn color with figures of baskets of flowers, and the centre table is of fine while marble. The pier table has a white marble top on a handsome gilt frame. The sofas and chairs of this room have gilt frames, and are covered with blue and white damask ; the curtains are of the same material, lined with delicate flesh colored silk. Two large mirrors stand opposite to each other, and a large chandelier, with many lights, is suspended from the ceiling, and in the evening 72 PICTURE OF gives a peculiar splendor by its reflection. Com- municating with the Reception Room is a large square room, known now as the Green Room, of thirty by twenty-two feet. The sofa and chairs have gilt frames, and are covered with green and white damask, and the curtains are of the same material. Two large mirrors and a marble pier table adorn this room, the floor being covered with a dark Wilton carpet, and the chandelier having twenty lights. We now enter the celebrated East Room, which in extent is eighty feet long by forty wide, and twenty -two in height. There are four mantles of black marble, with Italian black and gold fronts, and handsome grates ; e^ach mantel is surmounted with a French mirror, the plates of which measure one hundred by Hfty-eight inches, framed in a very beautiful style ; two rich French vases adorn each mantel piece ; four other large mirrors, two at each end of the room reflect the rays from three large chandeliers with twenty-seven lights each, and be- neath each of the chandeliers is a beautiful table of marble set in mahogany ; four pier tables corres- pond in style to the centre tables, all standing on bronze feet. The curtains are of heavy crimson damask, surrounded by rich gilt cornices ; the chairs and sofas are of mahogany, covered with rich worsted, \roven to represent flowers, in a great variety of colors ; the carpet, of American manu- WASHINGTON. 73 facture, was prepared expressly for this room, and is of a brown, crimson, and orange color, with the figure of an eagle. The following extracts from letters written by- Mrs. Adams, the lady of the first President of that name, throw much light upon the condition of this house, and also of this city, as they were in 1800. MRS. ABIGAIL ADAMS TO MRS. SMITH. Washington, J^ovember 21, 1800. In the city are buildings enough, if they were compact and finished, to accommodate Congress and those attached to it ; but as they are, I see no great comfort for them. The river, which runs up to Alexandria, is in full view of my window and 1 see the vessels as they pass and repass. The house is upon a grand and superb scale, requiring about thirty servants to attend and keep the apart- ments in proper order, and perform the ordinary business of the house and stables ; an establish- ment very well proportioned to the President's sal- ary. The lighting the apartments, from the kit- chen to the parlors and chambers, is a tax indeed ; and the fires we are obliged to keep, to secure us from daily agues, is another very cheering comfort. To assist us in this great castle, and render less at- tendance necessary, bells are wholly wanting, not C '74 PICTURE OF one single one being hung through the whole house, and promises are all you can obtain. This is so great an inconvenience, that I know not what to do or how to do. Thela dies from Georgetown and in the city have many of them visited me. Yesterday I returned fifteen visits ; but such a place as Georgetown appears — why, our Milton is beautiful. But no comparisons ; — if they will put me up some bells, and let me have wood enough to keep fires, I design to be pleased. I could con- tent myself almost any where three months ; but surrounded with forests can you believe that wood is not to be had, because people cannot be found to cut and cart it ! Briesler entered into a contract with a man to supply him with wood. A small part, a few cords only, has he been able to get- Most of that was expended to dry the walls of the house before we came in, and yesterday the man told him it was impossible for him to procure it to be cut and carted. He has had recourse to coals ; but we cannot get grates made and set. We have indeed come into a new country. You must keep this to yourself, and, when asked how I like it, say that I write you the situation is beautiful, which is true. The house is made habi- table, but there is not a single apartment finished, and all withinside, except the plastering, has been done since Briesler came. We have not the least fence, or yard, or other convenience without ; and WASHINGTON. 75 the great unfinished audience room I make a dry- ing room of, to hang up the clothes in. The principal stairs are not up, and will not be this winter. Six chambers are made comfortable ; two are occupied by the President and Mr. Shaw ; two lower rooms, one for a common parlor, and one for a levee room. Upstairs there is the oval room, which is designed for the drawing room and has the crimson furniture m it. It is a very handsome room now ; but when completed, it will be beauti- ful. If the twelve years, in which tliis jjlace has been considered as the future seat of government, had been improved, as they would have been if in New England, very many of the inconveniences would have been removed. It is a beautiful spot, capable of every improvement, and the more I view it the more I am delii^-hted with it. MRS. ADAMS TO MRS. SMITH, Washington, Jfovember 21, 1800. * * * Two articles we are much distressed for ; one is bells, but the more important one is wood. Yet you cannot see for trees. No arrange- ment has been made yet, but promises never }>er- formed, to supjily the new comers with fuel. Of the promises, Briesler had received his full share. He had procured nine cords of wood ; between six and seven of that was kindly burnt up to dry the 76 PICTURE OF walls of the house, which ought to have been done by the commissioners, but which, if left to them, would have remained undone to this day. Congress poured in, but shiver, shiver. No wood- cutters or carters to be had at any rate. We are now indebted to a Pennsylvania wagon to bring us, through the first clerk in the Treasury office, one cord and a half of wood, which is all we have for this house, where twelve fires are constantly re- quired, and where, we are told, the roads will soon be so bad that it cannot be drawn. Briesler pro- cured two hundred bushels of coals, or we must have suffered. This is the situation of almost every person. The public officers have sent to Phila- delphia for wood-cutters and wagons. * * * The ladies are impatient for a drawing room ; I have no looking-glasses but dwarfs for this house ; nor a twentieth part lamps enough to light it. STATUE OF JEFFERSON. This very fine bronze statue now stands in the small square immediately in front of the President's house. It is among the very best statues in the country. It was presented to the Government by Captain Levy of the United States Navy, a gentle- man devotedly attached to the memory of Mr. Jefferson, and who now is the owner of Monticello, the former aljode of that arreat man. The statue STATUE OF JEFFERSON. 78 PICTURE OF Stands on a pedestal, and in his left hand Jefferson holds a scroll of the Declaration of Independence, and in his right hand a pen, as though he had just finished that immortal instrument, and was antici- pating the glorious results of its influence — the ter- ror it would strike among the foes of freedom — the strength with which it would nerve the patriot's heart — the bitter opposition which it would meet with from some — the joy with which it would be hailed by more — and, if adopted, the high desti- nies which awaited young America. The country has never been informed of the persevei-ing and expensive efforts made by Capt. Levy to secure this statue, nor of the merits of the French artist whose enthusiasm was hardly surpassed by the individual who rewarded him for this admirable production of his skill and genius. It now occu- pies an eligible position, and will long stand in honor alike of the great man it so faithfully repre- sents and of the noble spirit of patriotism that se- cured and presented it to the nation. It formerly stood in the Rotundo of the Ctxpitol. STATE DEPARTMENT. The State Department is a plain building, of brick, two stories in height, one hundred and sixty feet long and fifty-five wide, with a spacious pas- sage running through its whole length, both on the WASHINGTON. 79 first and second floors, to the latter of which the ascent is by a widd staircase in the centre. The building contains thirty -two rooms, besides those in the attic. The first floor is occupied by the Fifth Auditor of the Treasury at the east end, and the Second Comptroller of the Treasury at the west end. On the second floor are the apartments of the Secretary of State and his suite ; also the library of the Department, containing some ten or twelve thousand volumes, selected with care, and relating especially to subjects of diplomacy and in- ternational law, with the laws and reports of the several States of the Union. TREASURY DEPARTMENT. This noble structure, adjoining on the south the State Department, is three hundred and forty feet in length from north to south, and one hundred and seventy from east to west. When completed, by the addition of the north and south wings, its length will be four hundred and fifty-seven feet. In front is an imposing colonnade, stretching the entire length of the building, after the architecture of the temple of Minerva Polias, at Athens. This portico is of the finest proportions, and the entire building does great credit to the taste and judgment of its architect, Mr. Robert Mills. The main en- trance is on the east by a double flight of steps go PICTURE OP Each floor contains forty-five apartments. The first or colonnade floor is occupied by the Treas- urer of the United States and Third Auditor, m the centre or west building ; the First Auditor in the north ; and the Attorney General and Solicitor of the Treasury in the south. On the second floor, in the centre building, are the apartments of the Secretary of the Treasury and his suite ; in the south, those of the First Comptroller and Register of the Treasury, who also occupies a suite of rooms in the north and centre : the library of the Department is also on this floor. The third floor is occupied entirely by the General Land Oflice. WAR DEPARTMENT. Numerous and earnest appeals have been made to Congress for a larger and fire-proof building for the War Department, the present one being not only exposed every moment to destruction by fire, but so small, compared with the requirements of the Department, that many of the bureaus are compelled to occupy rented private houses. It is situated on the west side of the President's square, and is similar in design to the Department of State. On the first floor are the Major General, Gluarter- master General, Adjutant General, and Second Auditor of the Treasury ; on the second floor the Secretary of War and his suite at the east end. WASHINGTON 81 and the Commissioner of Indian Affairs at the west end. The banners of the principal victories in the war of the Revolution, in the subsequent war with Great Britain, and many trophies recently won from Mexico, are carefully preserved in this De- partment. Among these are the flags taken at Saratoga, the Cowpens, and York ; the flags under which Scott and Jesup and their brave companions fought and conquered are literally riddled through with shot of the foe ; and here will be seen the flag, with an eagle wrought in silk, presented by the ladies of Philadelphia to Gen. Pike, and many others of great interest. The Engineer Bureau occupies the building on the northwest corner of Pennsylvania avenue and Seventeenth street, opposite diagonally to the War Department. The Bureau of Topographical Engineers occu- pies the first floor of the double tenement of brick on Seventeenth street, opposite to the War Depart- ment. The Ordnance Bureau occupies the third floor, and the Subsistence Bureau the second floor of the same building. The Paymaster General occupies the second and third floors of the building adjoining south the one mentioned above, and the Pension Bureau the one adjoining north. The Medical Bureau occupies a building on the c2 32 PICTURE OF north side of G street, a short distance west of the War Department. A fine block of buildings erecting opposite the Navy Department, to be rented by the Government, will afford better temporary accommodations than at present. NAVY DEPARTMENT. This building is situated south of the War De- partment, to which it is similar in design, and is of the same dimensions. On the first floor is the Fourth Auditor of the Treasury at the east end ; and the Bureau of Con- struction, Equipment, and Repairs, and the Bureau of Provisions and Clothing, at the west end. The Secretary of the Navy and his suite occupy the east end of the second floor ; the Bureau of Ord- nance and Hydrography, and the Bureau of Medi- cine, the west end and centre. " Between thirty and forty national flags, trophies of battle struck to 'a bit of striped bunting, ' deco- rate one of the rooms of the Navy Commissioners. They are well arranged and labelled, showing the names of the vessels to which they once belonged. Some of these bear evidence of the strife which took place before they were struck to the stars and stripes of the Union." This, as well as the State and War Departments, WASHINGTON. g3 is becoming inconvenient from its small size for the growing necessities of the nation. "We shall doubt- less see at no remote day, buildings rising, more safe, more ample, and in materials and proportions of a richer and nobler architecture. POST OFFICE. This beautiful edifice, after the design of Mr. Mills, is of the Corinthian order, of white marble, three stories high, extendmg two hundred and four feet in front, and one hundred and two feet in the depth of its wings. Its main front is on E street north; its east wing fronts on Seventh -street, and its west wing on Eighth street. It contains eighty- one rooms, twenty -seven on each floor, and occu- pies the site of the old Post Office building, burnt on the 15th December, 1836. The first floor, west wing, is occupied by the Receiving Office, Dead Letter Office, and the To- pographer of the Post Office Department; the east wing and centre by the Examining and Register Clerks of the Auditor's Office. On the second floor, west wing and centre, are the Postmaster General, his three Assistants, and the chief clerk of the department, and principal clerks of the Con- tract, Appointment, and Inspection Offices; in the east wing, the Auditor of the Post Office, his chief and other clerks in more immediate connection with g4 tiCTUllE OF* him. The third floor, west wing, is occupied chiefly by the clerks of the Contract Ofiice; the centre and east wing by the Auditor's clerks. THE PATENT OFFICE. The building now occupied by this office is located on F street north, between 7th and 9th streets west. It is thoroughly fire-proof in its construction. The original design contemplates a very extensive edifice, commensurate to the objects for which it was intended. The portion of build- ing now occupied by this office extends 270 feet^ by a depth of 70 feet, and divided into two lofty ^stories, above a high basement. The principal front looks down 8th street, where a noble portico (a fac simile of that of the celebrated Pantheon) forms the principal feature of the building, and where is the grand entrance by a flight of granite steps, leading into a large hall^ containing a splen- did and double flight of marble steps, ascending to spacious galleries above. The passage below on the right leads to the office rooms of the Commis- sioner of Patents; that on the left to the large model room, filled with the rich gifts of mechani- cal science and art, disposed in glass cases. The second floor is thrown into one grand saloonj ap- propriately named the National Gallery, where are exhibited specimens of home manufactures, numer- m_i iiii lii I WASHINGTON. 85 ous subjects of natural history, cfec. The length of this hall is 264 feet, width 64 feet, and height 30 feet, ornamented with a quadruple row of mas- sive stone Doric columns, rising with their entab- lature twenty feet, above which spring a series of vaulted ceilings ten feet higher, covering the whole area, and forming a highly ornamented plafond. In the center of this Gallery a grand cylindrical arch of 40 feet span towers above the rest, pierced with an aperture 13 feet in diameter, which admits the light from above — the whole constructed with solid masonry. This splendid hall has been ap- propriated, since 1842, to the collection of natural history, &c., brought home by the United States Naval Exploring Expedition; which has since been arranged, and is still under the superin- tendence of Commander Charles Wilkes, the cele- brated commander of the expedition. This hall contains, in addition to the above, many curiosities belonging to the Departments of State, War and Navy, United States. In the basement story of this building is a large room at the west end for the reception of full-sized models; the rooms at the east end are occupied as offices — one is ap- propriated to the meetings and library of the National Institute Society. Congress, in 1849, made an appropriation for the extension of the Patent Office building, by wings, one of which, east side, is in a forward c3 gg PICTURE OF State to completion. This wing, when completed, will provide extensive accommodations for the Patent Office proper, and rooms are providing in the east wing for the reception of the Department of the Interior, which is charged with the Patent Office Bureau. This bureau, however, will have the benefit of the magnificent hall now construct- ing on the same level with that already described, 270 feet long, 65 feet wide, and 30 feet high, orna- mented with a double colonnade of marble pillars, rising, with their entablatures, 20 feet high, and supporting a vaulted ceiling, formed of grooved arches, of upwards of 20 feet span, all of solid masonry, which constitutes the fire-proof char- acter of the whole building. This vast room will be opened into the great gallery already described in the first building, by a lofty arch-way. The west wing, when completed, i^ intended also to have a similar gallery on this level, so that, when the northern section of the building shall be erected there will be a contmuous gallery around the whole structure a quarter of a mile long. The wings now erecting are faced outside witii white marble, and on the court front Vv^ith granite, both from the Maryland quarries. The work is admirably well done, reflecting the greatest credit on the architect, and the contractors of the work. WASHINGTON §7 WASHINGTON MONUMENT. Below is a full description of the design adopted by the Board of Managers for the monument which it is contemplated to erect at the seat of government to the memory of Washington, from voluntary contributions. The design embraces the idea of a grand cir- cular colonnaded building, 250 feet in diameter, and 100 feet high, from which springs an obelisk shaft 70 feet at the base and 500 feet high, making a total elevation of 600 feet. This vast rotundo, forming the grand base of the Monument, is surrounded by 30 columns of mas- sive proportions, being 12 feet in diameter and 45 feet high, elevated upon a lofty base or stylobate of 20 feet elevation and 300 feet square, sur- mounted by an entablature 20 feet high, and crowned by a massive balustrade 15 feet in height. The terrace outside of the colonnade is 25 feet wide, and the pronaos or walk within the colon- nade, including the column space, 25 feet. The walks enclosing the cella, or gallery within, are fretted with 30 massive antae (pilasters) 10 feet wide, 45 feet high, and 7? feet projection, answer- ing to the columns in front, surmounted by their appropriate architrave. The deep recesses formed WASHINGTON. 89 by the projection of the antre, provide suitable niches for the reception of statues, A tetrastyle portico (4 columns in front) in triple rows of the same proportions and order with the columns of the colonnade, distinguishes the en- trance to the Monument, and serves as a pedestal for the triumphal car and statue of the illustrious chief; the steps of this portico are flanked by mas- sive blockings, surmounted by appropriate figures and trophies. Over each column, in the great frieze of the en- tablatures around the entire building, are sculp- tured escutcheons, coats of arms of each State in the Union, surrounded by bronze civic wreaths banded together by festoons of oak leaves, &c., all of which spring (each way) from the centre of the portico, where' the coat of arms of the United States are emblazoned. The statues surrounding the rotundo outside, under the colonnade, are all elevated upon pedestals, and will be those of the glorious signers of the Declaration of Indepen- dence. Ascending the portico outside to the terrace level, a lofty vomitoria (door way) 30 feet high leads into the cella, (rotundo gallery,) 50 feet wide, 500 feet in circumference, and 60 feet high, with a colossal pillar in the centre 70 feet in diameter, around which the gallery sweeps. This pillar forms the founda- tion of the obelisk column above. c4 90 PICTURE OF Both sides of the gallery are divided into spaces! by pilasters, elevated on a continued zocle or base" 5 feet high, forming an order with its entablature, 40 feet high, crowned by a vaulted ceiling 20 feet high, divided by radiating archevaults, correspond- ing with the relative positions of the opposing pilasters, and enclosing deep sunken colfers eni-iched with paintings. The spaces between the pilasters are sunk into niches for the reception of the statues of the fathers of the Revolution, contemporary with the immortal Washington ; over which are large tablets to re- ceive the National Paintings commemorative of the battle and other scenes of that memorable period. Opposite to the entrance of this gallery, at the ex- tremity of the great circular wall, is the grand niche for the reception of the statue of the "Father of his country," elevated on its appropriate pedes- tal, and designated as principal in the group by its colossal proportions. This spacious Gallery and Rotundo, which prop- erly may be denominated the " National Pantheon,'^ is lighted in four grand divisions from above, and by its circular form, presents each subject decorat- ing its walls in an interesting point of view, and with proper effect, as the curiosity is kept up every moment, from the whole room not being presented to the eye at one glance, as in the case of a straight gallery. WASHINGTON. ^l Bantering the centre pier through an arched way^ you pass into a spacious circular area, and ascend, with an easy grade, by a railway, to the grand terrace, 75 feet above the base of the Monument. This terrace is 700 feet in circumference, 180 feet wide, enclosed by a colonnaded balustrade, 15 feet high with its base and capping. The circuit of this grand terrace is studded with small temple-formed structures, constituting the cupolas of the lanterns, lighting the Pantheon gallery below ; by means of these little temples, from a gallery within, a bird's- eye view is had of the statues, &c., below. Through the base of the great circle of the balus- trade are four apertures at the four cardinal points, leading outside of the balustrade, upon the top of the main cornice, where a gallery 6 feet wide and 750 feet in circumference encircles the whole, en- closed by an ornamental guard, forming the crown- ing member on the top of the tholus of the main cornice of the grand colonnade. Within the thick- ness of this wall, staircases descend to a lower gallery over the plafond of the pronaos of the colonnade lighted from above. This gallery, which extends all around the colonnade, is 20 feet wide, divided into rooms for the records of the Monu- ment, works of art, or studios for artists engaged in the service of the Monument. Two other waj^s communicate with this gallery from below. In the centre of the grand terrace above described. 92 PICTURE OF rises the lofty obelisk shaft of the Monument, 50 feet square at the base, and 500 feet high, diminish- ing as it rises to its apex, where it is 40 feet square ; at the foot of this shaft, and on each face project four massive zocles 25 feet high, supporting so many colossal symbolic tripods of victory, 20 feet high, surmounted by facial columns with their symbols of authority. These zocle faces are em- bellished with inscriptions, which are continued around the entire base of the shaft, and occupy the surface of that part of the shaft between the tripods. On each face of the shaft above this is sculptured the four leading events in General Washington's eventful career, in basso relievo, and above this the shaft is perfectly plain to within 50 feet of its sum- mit, where a simple sta.r is placed, emblematic of the glory which the name of Washington has at- tained. The interior of the shaft is to be orniunented by blocks of marble and stone contributed by the dif- ferent States and associations. Many of these have been received, and are being placed in their proper positions. The sculpture of some of these contributions reflect the highest credit on the artists. To ascend to the summit of the column, the same facilities as below are provided witliin the sliaft, by an easy graded gallery, which may be traversed by a railway, terminating in a circular observatory 20 feet in diameter, around which at the top is a look- WASHINGTON. 93 out gallery, which opens a prospect all around the horizon. With reference to the area embraced by the foundations and basement of the Monument, and the uses to which they may be applied, the under- space outwards, occupied by the lower terrace and colonnade, may be appropriated to the accommo- dation of the keepers of the Monument, or those having charge of it, and attending on visiters. These apartments, which are arched, are well lighted and aired, as they are all above ground, the light being disposed in the sunk panels of the stylo- bate (base.) The principal entrance to all these apartments will be from the rear, or opposite side of the portico entrance. The inner space, or that under the grand gallery or rotundo, may be ap- propriated to catacombs for the reception of the re- mains of such distinguished men as the nation may honor with interment here. This subterranean gal- lery is so large and lofty that it would accommodate many catacombs. In the centre of the Monument is placed the tomb of Washington, to receive his remains, should they be removed thither, the descent to which is by a broad flight of steps, Hghted by the same light which illumines his statue. This great work is rapidly rising, and has already been carried up nearly one hundred feet. 94 PICTURE OF STATUE OF WASHINGTON This beautiful work of art by Greenough, wiio devoted several years in Italy to its execution, stands in the east square of the Capitol, on a noble granite pedestal, and is surrounded by a handsome iron railing, which encloses two small yew trees and some ornamental shrubbery. Of this statue, Mr. Greenough says : " It is the birth of my thought. I have sacrificed to it the flower of my days, and the freshness of my strength ; its every lineament has been moistened with the sweat of my toil, and the tears of my exile. I would not barter away its association with my name for the proudest fortune avarice ever dreamed of. In giving it up to the na- tion which has done me the honor to order it at my hands, I respectfully claim for it that protection which it is the boast of civilization to afford to art, and which a generous enemy has more than once been seen to extend even to the monuments of his own defeat." This statue is of colossal size, in a sitting posture, and were it erect it would stand about twelve feet high. A foreign writer has said, <' nothing can be more human, and at the same time more god-like, than this statue of Washington. It is a sort of domestic Jupiter." It i.'^ ^rreatly ad- STATU : OF WASHINGTON. 96 PICTURE OF mired by those most familiar with the great works of art in Italy, and is growing in reputation with the public. The great Father of his Country is represented with the right hand pointed to Heaven, and the left hand holding a Roman sword with the handle turned from the person. Of it the Hon. Edward Everett says : " We regard Mr. Greenough's Washington as one of the greatest works of sculpture of modern times. We do not know the work that can justly be preferred to it, whether we consider the purity of the taste, the loftiness of the conception, the truth of the character, or, what we must own we feel less able to judge of, accuracy of anatomical study and mechanical skill. Had it been the work of Canova, Chantrey, or Thorswalden, it would have been deemed, we doubt not, worthy of either of those artists. Nay, we are prepared to go farther, and, disclaiming all pretence to connois- seurship, we are persuaded, if, instead of being a statue of Washington, it had been a statue of Julius Cresar or Alexander the Great — if, instead of com- ing from the studio of a young American of the present day, with all its freshness upon it, it had been dug up in ihe ruins of the baths of Titus, or the villa of Adrian, shattered and mutilated, arms, legs, nose, and even head gone, stained and cor- roded ; when it had been scraped and pieced to- .irether, furnished with modern extremities, and WAglliNGTON. 97 {lerhaps a head of doubtful authenticity, and thus restored had been set up in the Vatican or the Tribune, it would have been deemed as fine a piece of sculpture as any there. " This grand work is of one aingle piece of mar- ble, not of pure white^ which it is impossible to procure in masses of sufficient size for such a statue without stains fatal to its beauty, but of a bluish tinge highly favorable to the effect of a work of art. The marbles of this kind are now preferred for works of this description." This statue is intended not to commemorate any single action, but rather to express the sublime dignity, the calm integrity, fortitude and devotion, in a word the entire character of Washington. The seat which the statue occupies is adorned by a miniature figure of Columbus on the one side, and that of an Indian chief on the other, with other emblematic devices, such as the infant Hercules strangling the serpent, the rising sun, with the crest of the national armor of the United States. JACKSON MONUMENT. This great work by Mr. Cla7-k Mills is far ad- vanced, and will be placed in the centre of Lafayette Square in the course of the year. This Monument is to be a bronze equestrian statue — one-third larger than life, after an admirable model by Mr. Mills, 98 PICTUREOF in which the horse is represented in a rearing atti- tude, s«lf-balanced and sustained, while the General waives his hat in acknowledgment of the honors paid him, while reviewing his troops. Nothing could Well exceed the beauty and spirit of the horse, or the energy and valor expressed in the countenance of the stern and never-conquered Hero of New Orleans. Mr. Mills is a native, and entirely self- taught artist, and deserves the greatest credit, not only for the genius which his model exhibits, but for the method he has devised in opposition to many unbelievei-s or doubters for castiiig this noble statue, under his own direction in this city. None who know the inventive powers of Mr. Mills, or what he has already accomplished, have the least doubt of his success. His bust of the late Mr. Calhoun, modeled and cut in marble by himself, and for which the city council of Charleston pre- sented him with a gold medal, is one of the most perfect works of art. We feel assured that the speedy completion of this equestrian statue in bronze to the honor of General Jackson, will dis- pel every doubt of the abilities of the sculptor, and win for him a wide and enduring fame. NATIONAL OBSERVATORY. One of the most interesting objects in the Metro- polis hi the National Observatory, situated about IQQ PICTURE OF two miles from the Capitol, on Camp Hill, and commanding one of the prettiest prospects the mind can imagine. In 1842, an act of Congress was passed, making an appropriation of money and grounds for the erec- tion of the building which was intended as a depot for charts and mathematical instruments for the navy. It was erected under the superintendence of Lieutenant J. M. Gillis, who was sent abroad to collect a number of astronomical and magnetic in- struments. In 1844, Lieutenant M. F. Maury, of the Navy, an officer amply qualified to superintend its operations, was directed to take charge of the Observatory, and under his direction and untiring efforts it is taking a prominent stand among other similar institutions. It received its first impetus from the Hon. Abel P. Upshur, who afforded every facility for getting it into operation ; was liberally patronised by the Hon. George Bancroft, who did all he could to enlarge its sphere of usefulness ; and the late popular Secretary of the Navy, Hon. J. Y. Mason, has not been behind his predeces- sors in the continuance of his patronage. If Con- gress will only be moderately generous to this in- fant institution, there is nothing to hinder it from becoming a great national ornament, and the best school in our country for the attainment of astro- nomical information. WASHINGTON. JQl In 1845, Lieut. Maury published the observa- tions of that year, which fill a large volume, con- taining also drawings of every part of the building, and the instruments at present mounted. To a scientific person this volume will afford great at- traction, and to all it will give proof of the untiring zeal of the officers, who have performed the whole of the work, and still continue to do so, under the direction of Lieut. Maury. The Observatory is built nearly in the shape of a cross, and fronts to the north. The right wing, or east room, contains two beautiful instruments, the mural circle and the meridian transit, two in- struments whose results are very much the same, but entirely different in their construction. The former is used for determining the declinations or the latitude of the stars, and the latter to determine both right ascension and declination, that is, both- iatitude and longitude. To the uninitiated the apparatus connected with the instruments for the purpose of lighting them up, &c., would present a mass of confusion ; whereas, the most perfect system reigns throughout, and a degree of ingenui- ty not met with in any other institution of the kind. These instruments in clear weather are generally at work by sundown , but at any other time of the day an officer of the building will take plea- sure in showing them to strangers. The west room contains a large transit instrument, used for deter- 102 PICTURE OF mining the right ascension of stars, and in connec- tion with it is the magnetic telegraph, for the pur- pose of determming the difference of longitude be- tween any two places. When the lines are carried through all parts of the United States, this will afford the readiest means of ascertaining the correct longitude of every point — a much desired event for acquiring geographical knowledge. The south section of the Observatory consists of two separate rooms, the north one containing a beautiful instrument called the prime vertical, and the southern room a circle of refraction, an instru- ment invented by Lieutenant Maury, and appa- rently intricate in its numerous appointments, yet actually simple in prmciple, and mathematically correct in theory. The beautiful finish of the in- struments will strike the beholder with astonish- ment, and his wonder will not cease when he is in- formed of the trifling cost of the whole compared with the results to the country. Each room is pro- vided with a sidereal clock of very correct rate of going, which is used in connection with the insti-u- ments while observing; these clocks have errors only the hundredth part of a second or there- abouts, a space of time scarce within the compre- hension of most individuals. The great equatorial telescope is the instrument with which a stranger would be at once fascinated — a peep through it at once transports the beholder WASHINGTON. 1Q3 to Other realms above; he plainly sees the moun- tains and volcanoes in the Moon; and every mo- ment expects to see some of the inhabitants of those unknown regions stepping out from behind some rock. The planets Jupiter, Saturn, Mars, Venus, &c., which appear to the naked eye only as brilliant stars, are resolved into magnificent moons through the equatorial, surrounded by their accompanying satellites. The wonders of the heavens are, in fact, all unfolded to the view, and we read the stars in the firmament as though it were a book. The dome of the building is so fixed that it revolves with the slightest movement, and enables the observer, through a sUt in the top, to turn the instrument on any object. An ingeniously con- structed chair, for the purpose of elevating or low- ering the observer, demands some little attention, being the work of an Alexandrian and an Ameri- can. All the instruments referred to have been mount- ed, under the direction of Lieutenant Maury, by native workmen, who have shown an admirable adaptation for these nice labors; and the day is pro- bably not far distant, when we shall nobly compete with our European friends in the manufacture of the instruments — at present it cannot be done. In the main body of the Observatory are the offices or rooms for calculating, the library for the use of the buildin