THE HISTORY OF I P O N WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF STUDLEY-ROYAL, FOUNTAINS' ABBEY, NEWBY, HACKFALL, Sec Sec An ANALYSIS of ALDFIELD S P A W : AND LISTS OF THE RARER INDIGENOUS PLANTS FOUND IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD. ijjfe H1STORIA QUOqUO MODO SCRIPTA DELECTAT. Second Edition. — — ffiith Engravings. RIP O N: y Printed and Sold by W. Farrer: SOLD ALSO BY LONGMAN & CO. P ATE R-NOST E R- ROW* LONDON : AND BY WILSON AND SPENCE, YORK* .. • • •, • • • ^ ADV ER TIS E ME NT. 1 HE Editor, in offering this second Edition of the History of Ripon to the Public, flatters himself that it will be fo^ind considerably enlarged and improved. He has availed himself of every source of information that might tend to elucidate the subject; and his thanks are due to several Gentlemen who have assisted him with their advice and corrections. THE HISTORY OF RIPON. IPON is situated near the centre of the extensive county of York, 208 Miles N. N. W. of London. It stands upon a rising ground between the river Ure on the "North, and the little river Skell on the South, within a small distance of their confluence ; over the former of which, and near the town, is a handsome stone- Bridge, 560 yards in length, supported by seventeen arches, there are also five other stone-Bridges, within little more than one mile of the town. The ety- mology of its name has, by different writers, been variously traced, though its situation alone is sufficiently demonstrative of its derivation.* b This • From Rip a— The Bank if a River. The Saxons gave such names to most ot "their cities, towns, and villages, as in their language had relation to the situation or nature of the place. VSRSTEGA^, O THE HISTORY This ancient corporation and borough town is large, well built, and enjoys every advantage that an inland situation can afford. The air is salubrious and pleasant, and the surrounding coun - try i ich, fertile, well wooded, highly cultivated, and interspersed with a variety of gentlemen's seats and picturesque villages., It has one church only, which is collegiate and in some respects parochial, (the parish having the benefit of it with- out the charge of a church-rate.) The market place, which for extent and beauty may stand in competition with that of any other market town in England, is a handsome and spacious square, ornamented with a light and beautiful obelisk ninety feet high, erected by William Aislabie Esq ; in the year 1781, on which is inscribed MDCCLXXXI Erected at the Expence of William Aislabie, Esq ; Who represented this borough in Parliament Sixty years. This inscription was ordered by the Mayor, Aldermen, and Assistants, Of the Corporation. MDCCLXXXV. The Honourable Frederick Robinson, Mayor. The OF RI?ON- 7 The oiigin of the town is without doubt to be referred to a very ancient sera. Its proximity to the Roman city, Isurium, now Aldborough ; and the various Roman highways which pass it at a small distance on each side, with the peculiar beauties and advantages of its situation might lead us to imagine that it was not wholly unknown to that people; but as none of these roaJb* take their course through the town, it precludes the supposi- tion that it ever formed a Roman station. Whether, therefore, the town owes its origin to the Britons, or, (as some authors assert) it is to be attributed to the Saxons; we cannot decidedly say : Soon after the declension of the Roman power in this country, we find it in a flourishing state B 2 having * One of these ancient highways took its course from Manchester (Mancunium) and llkley (Qlicq,na) by the south side ot Kipiey to Aldborough. Another branched off from the former at the passage of the liver Nidd f and the village of Clint, and directed its course by Bishop-Thornton to Aldfield in the parish of Ripon, and thence by Grewelthorpe to the Roman Camp on the heights of Nutvvith near Mas ham, proceeded to Kil- grambridge over the Ure, and thence to Catterick. A third was the Leeming Street as it is usually called, but more properly that portion of the great Roman Road, the Ermine Street, which lies between the last mentioned station, Catterick, and Isurium, and takes its way over Huttcn-Moor. 8 THE HISTORY having a monastery founded by Fata, Abbot of Melross, of which we shall hereafter give a more particular description. A D 86c. The Danes were a people charac- terized by plunder and warfare; who spread devastation and massacre wherever necessity or inclination piompted them to conduct their desul- tory enterprises, which were generally undertaken by some bold Adventurer, with as many followers as he could collect, merely for the sake of plunder ; these invaders, during the unhappy reigns of Ethel- bert and Ethelred, having ravaged the most fertile provinces of England, and destroyed the Northum- brian and Mercian kingdoms, pillaged, and after- wards burnt the town of Ripon; which as William of Malmsbury informs us, remained some time in ashes, so that the traces of it could only be discovered by its ruins. Early after the settlement of the Saxons in this island, who were remarkable for their regard to rational polity, and the welfare of society ; it .was found requisite for the convenience of mutual dealings and the facility of carrying on commercial intercourse, to appoint certain places, where the people might live together in protection and safety. These OF RIPON. .9 These were called Burghs;* and towns of what- ever size, the largest as well as the most inconsider- able received this as a common appellation. § Hurghs were mediate]} or immediately of royal erection, for though many of them were the pro- perty of prelates, abbots, or laylords, yet these were erected by licence from the crown. Open markets and fairs were held in them with peculiar privileges; in consequence of which, tolls and duties were imposed upon the goods carried there for sale, and collected by a bailiff for their respec- tive lords; but in process of time, for reciprocal convenience, the tolls and duties were let to the burgesses t at a stated annual rent called a Fee Farm. Burghs were appropriated for the residence of such as derived their subsistence from merchan- b 3 dise * Suich, Burgh, Borgh, hence Borough, a Bej^en [Saxc/i]— in tutum recipere, servare Brady on Burghs. Somner, Sec, $ Du Fresne. -{• The burgesses or tradesmen in great towns, in the reign of Edward the confessor, and at the time of the survey, had either their patrons, under whose protection they traded, and paid an acknowledgement ; or else 'um, Brady on Burchs, p 6, Kel, Domesday j66* 10 THE HISTORY dise and traffic, the inhabitants for the most part, being merchants, tradesmen, and mechanics. They had privileges adapted to their respective occupa- tions, elected their own magistrates, and transacted other business at their general meetings called Burgh Motes. — These privileges distinguished them from the inhabitants of villages, which were solely occupied by persons whose employment was agriculture; the latter were more numerous, the former reputed of greater consequence. A, D. 886. Ripon soon enjoyed this mark of royal favour, and received its first incorporation in the fourteenth year of the reign of that wise and good prince Alfred, surnamed the Great, whose name and exploits will continue to be the boast of Englishmen to the latest posterity. Its government was then regulated by a Vigi- lariusorWakeman, twelve Elders, and twenty-four Assistants, the former of whom some authors have been very erroniously led to imagine, derived his title from watch and ward having been kept here, and have gone so far as to assert that the town was enclosed by walls, but of this opinion there seems to be no confirmation, had walls ever been erected here, most certainly, at some time or other, the foundations, or some slight traces of them must have been discovered* It OF RIPON. ir It was the duty of the Vigilarius or Wakeman l^and which we must not forget to mention here) to cause a horn to be blown every night at nine o'clock ; after which, if any house or shop was robbed, before sun-rise next morning, the sufferer received a compensation for the loss, Jrom an annual tax of fourpence levied upon every mhabi- tant, whose dwelling had but one, and of eightpence where it had two outer doors, from which latter circumstance double danger might be suspected. The tax, together with the good effects arising from it, is now fallen into disuse, but the custom of blowing the horn is continued to this day. A D. 947. Scarcely had Ripon recovered the shock occasioned from its overthrow by the Danes and begun again to flourish, when it suffered another, and if possible, more shocking devastation than the former. The turbulent disposition of the Northumbrian Danes, who had often revolted and been subdued by Edmund, during the youth of Edred, whom they thought not yet sufficiently matured for government, again broke forth. Edred however receiving early information of their de- signs, marched into the heart of their dominions, before they were aware of danger. This effort drew from them submission, and Edred quitted their 12 THE HirTORY their kingdom, after imposing upon them a small fine, and receiving their promises of allegiance, but the Danes were as faithless as they were ser- vile, for Ed red had no sooner returned to Wessex, than they re-commenced hostilities. Success at- tended their arms, they became, and for some time continued masters of the North ; at length civil d-iscord breaking out among them, Fdred, too wise and politic a prince not to avail himself of the opportunity which this event afforded, invaded them in his turn. Whilst the Northumbrians neglected every precaution against attacks from without, and within were eager only to destroy one another. Fdred marched into the North, and meeting with little or no resistance, threatened to lay waste their whole kingdom. These threats were no sooner made than partly put into ex- ecution. J. D. 948. He commenced the desolation of their towns and villages, and amongst others he destroyed, by a general conflagration, the town of Ripon, with all its public buildings. Perhaps it was here that the compunctious visiting* of nature gave a check to the spirit of vengeance on his contemplating the ruin of a country which in fact was his own. He once more received their submission OF RIPON. 13 submission and protestations of future allegiance, and placed Edrick on the then vacant throne of Northumberland. A. D. 950. By the exertions of its former inhabitants and the encouragement of Odo, arch- bishop of Canterbury, the town was rebuilt, and again flourished. Not long indeed had it enjoyed tranquillity, when it was once more reduced to a state of misery little short of that which it had experienced from the hands of king Edred. AD. 1069. After the siege of York, \\ illiam the Norman ravaged an extent of territory, part of the Northumbrian kingdom, sixty miles in length; devastation so marked the progress of this marauder, that the proprietors were unable to re- cognise their former po-sessions. Now dweilis William efte, full bare vas money \vonc Of gode men er none lefte, but slayn er ilk one, Grete sin did William, that swilk wo did vrerk So grele vengeance he nam, of men of holy kirk, That did no wem 'till him, ne no trespass. Fro York unto Durham no wonying stede was, Nien yere, says my buke, lasted so grete sorrow, Thebishop clerkes tuke their lives for two borrows langtoft's chronicle. 14 - THE HISTORY Rirov, with its adjacent country fell a sacrifice to this much to be lamented outrage, and such were its ruinous consequences, that even sixteen years after, when the Conqueror's survey was made, it remained w r aste and uncultivated # Tranquillity succeeded, and the town con- tinued undisturbed, until the unhappy reign of E iward the Second; escaping the miseries of the wars between king Henry the third and his Barons. A ZX 13 16. When the Scots under the com- mand of Robert Bruce, had made themselves masters of the most important fortresses of the north, they marched their army to this place, and after remaining three days, imposed and with difficulty levied upon the inhabitants a tribute of One Thousand Marks; remembering their former good fortune and elated with the hopes of similar success, they returned the following year, and demanded the same exaction ; with which, the people were unable to comply, being reduced to the last extremity by the prolongation of war. These bold invaders, disappointed in their expec- tations entirely destroyed the town by fire and massacred the greatest part of the inhabitants. Soon See Appendix No 1. OF RIFON-. 15 Soon after this calamity, a stop was put to the incursions of the Scots, and repeated successes crowned the arms of England ; the whole kingdom recovered its wonted spirits, and became as it were renovated by the unanimous exertions of all ranks of people. Ripon, by the liberal donations of the archbishop of York, and the neighbouring gentry, together with the industry of its former inhabitants, was in a few years restored to a flourishing condi- tion: and even for a while became the residence of the court. For in the year 1405, king Henry the fourth, being obliged to leave London on account of the plague, which then raged in the Metropolis, retired to this town, where he conti- nued some time with his whole court. After the rebellion in the county of York, occasioned by the suppression of the lesser mona- steries ; In compliance with a request from the insurgents, king Henry the eighth erected by a patent, and without the advice or consent of par- liament, a court at York, called "the lord presi- dent's court " vested with the power of Oyer and Terminer, having jurisdiction over the counties of York, Durham, Northumberland, Westmorland and Cumberland, the city of York, and the towns of Kingston-upon-Hull, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, and 10 THfi HISTORY and Berwick upon-Tweed. Innovations on its original design were daily introduced, particularly during the reigns of James the first and Charles the first; and its powers by encroachment, espe- cially under the presidency of Sir Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, became so exten- sive, that at length it usurped civil jurisdiction, and that in some respects, discretionary and un- limited. 1604. This court was adjourned to Ripon, in consequence of the plague which then spread itself through the city of York. Here in part were ex- ercised those acts of injustice and oppression, which eventually caused its dissolution. 1604 'June 24th. The civil constitution of the town was changed, and by the exertions of Mr. Hugh Ripley, a charter was obtained from king James the first, incorporating it under the government of a Mayor, Recorder, and twelve Aldermen, assisted by twenty-four Common Councilmen, and a Town Clerk, with the subor- dinate offices of two Serjeants at mace ; by which charter Hugh Ripley was appointed the first Mayor of Ripon, Henry Skew, Thomas Hebdin, sen. Thomas Watson, Roger Holmes, Thomas Dowgill, William Fawcett, Henry Singleton, John OF riton. 17 John Green, Thomas Wardropper, Thomas Cun- dale, Anthony Taylor, and William Battie, Al- dermen. Christopher Franks, Richard Rayner, Simon Ascough, Simon Brown, William Newell, Ralph Webster, Thomas Battie, Marmaduke Jen- kinson, Richard Kettlewell, James Thompson, Thomas Ripley, William Cooke, John Hardy, George Pulleyn, John Watson, Richard Atkinson, William Colton, Thomas Millner, Roger Smaith- waite, Ralph Warwick, John Dobby, Richard Horner, Edward Kirby, and Christopher Porter, Assistants. John Priestly, of the Middle Temple, Esq; Recorder ; and Richard Hebdin of Rjpon, Town-Clerk: confirming to them their ancient liberties and privileges. A. Z>> 1657. The Lord Protector of England granted to the borough of Ripon, his letters patent for holding a fair every alternate week. During the protectorate of Cromwell, many persons inimical to the house of Stuart, were ap- pointed to offices of trust and importance in the several corporations of England ; which on the re- storation, induced the legislature, the better to secure tranquillity to the reigning family, to pass an act of parliament for the regulation of corporate bodies, vesting a power in commissioners, to re~ c move l8 THE HrSTORY move such officers as they, on enquiry, should think expedient, and place others in their stead. September 23d. 1662. By virtue of this delegated power, the commissioners sat at Ripon, and remo- ved Henry Braithwaite, Henry Spence, John Spence, Robert Atkinson, Nicholas Kitchen, Tho- mas Braithwaite, Henry Green, and William Bramley, aldermfn; filling up the vacancies with Sir Edward Jennings Kt. Sir Jonathan Jen- nings, Kt. Walter. Strickland, and. Walter Lister, Esqs ; Henry Redshaw, William Gibson, George Catton, and Piers Denton. A. D. 1686 King James the second soon after his accession to the throne, demanded the surren- der of the charters of all the cities and corporate towns; those which refused, were treated with coercive measures: The charter of this corporation was then sui rendered, but the king restored and confirmed it the same year ; since which time it has remained in as full force as in the days of its original establishment in the reign of James the 'first. The Mayor is elected annually on the first Tuesday in January, and enters upon the duties of his office on the second of February following. The better to support his station, he has the toll of OF RIPON- 19 •f Corn and grain sold in the market, called the. Hand-law* ot mar&et-sweepings, whu h was enjoyed by the wakemen previous to the conquest, and was confirmed to the corporation in the year 1532-3, by king Henry the eighth, during his continuance at York ; also the rent of certain lands given by Mr. Hugh Ripley, Alderman of Ripon, by will, dated 30th. Api il 1637, from which we subjoin an abstract. " / give and bequeath unto the mayor , bu~gesses, 4t and commonalty oj the town of Ripon , and to their 4i successors for ever, two closes with the appurtenances il h' in Z with' 171 the fields of Ripon and Bishopton near " unto a place called Holgate-head and nine roods of " land lying at or near a place ealled Red-bank within il the fields of Ripon and Bondgate zvith all the yearly u rents reserved unto the mayor for the time being to il his own use with power to them so often as there u shall be occasion to demise the same for one andtzuenty 41 years and not above for the best benefit of the mayor M as aforesaid" and by the same will, he gave to the mayor and aldermen for the time being and their successors in trust, a parcel of land called Bull-close, lying in the town fields of Ripon, to c 2 pay » The two hundredth part of a bushel. 20 THE HISTORY pay and apply the rent thereof to and amongst forty poor men of the said town yearly forever; and also the annual sum of twenty pounds for paying and receiving the rental of certain grounds, now inclosed, and here denominated an average rent- § The § The better to understand whence this patt of the mayor's stipend arises, it seems necessary to explain the origin of this average rent. Much of the land in the vicinity of Ripon was anci- ently occupied in common fields ; over which from Michaelmas to the Lady -day following' in every year, the owners or occupiers of houses there, kno,vn by a particular description, had to such houses an appurtenant and accustomed righrof stray t'ov a certain number of cattle; which being attended with much inconvenience and less to the respective land owners, an act of parlia- ment was applied for by them, and obtained in the seventeenth year oi the reign of George the second, by which, commissioners were appointed and authorised to ascertain the value of the rights of each person respec- tively, according to an average or mean proportion, and to impose a yearly rent by such valuation, which to this day is called an Average Rent, upon the land subjecc to such stray, and which rent is directed to be paid to the mayor of Ripon for the time being, who is empow- ered to receive and pav it to the proprietors of the houses to which the right cf stray anciently appertained, in lieu thereof, in the following proportion viz, for every Borough and Messuage in Ripon, ten shillings and five- pence, and for every cottage five shillings and twopence halfpenny ; and for cv?ry messuage in Bondgate and LUtlelKorpe, five shillings and threepence, and forever/ cottage, two dulling* and ssvenpence halfpenny. OP RIPOtf. at The arms of the town are, Gules, a bugle Hora Or, stringed and belted Sable, deemed to be embel- lished Argent, The word Ripon of the last. The letter t in pale, R and P in chief J and O N in , /esse The mouth piece of the horn to the dexter. Formerly, a horn slung on a belt enriched with the arms of different members of the corpo- ration, was worn by the wakernan for the time being, on five days in the year, called horn days. viz. Candlemas- day, Easter-monday, Wednesday in Rogation week, the Sunday after Lammas-day, here called Wilfrid Sunday, and Saint Stephen's day : It has been repeatedly ornamented of late by the mayors of Ripon, particularly by William Aislabie Esq: and is now worn in procession on those days by the Serjeant at mace. To this account of the corpoiation of Ripon, we have added a list of the wakemen and rnavors from the year 1400 to the year 1806 inclusive. * 3 WAKEMEN THE HISTORY 1400 James Percival 1 JofcB Lamb 2 Peter Millbe 3 William Norton 4/Thomas Fountains 5 Randall Backhouse 6 Geoffrey Thorpe 7 John Blowmar 8 John Blackburne 9 William Trowlope 14.IO Peter Selby, gent* x Lawrence Pawl 2 Adam Green 3 James Hebdin, gent. 4 John Davill, gent. 5 John Selby 6 Ralph Handiey 7 Peter Allan 8 William Weley 9 Thomas Brock, gent 1 (,20 Rowland Gill 1 Adam Mann, gent. z Francis Scroop, gent 3 Richard Hebdin, gt. :. Lawrence Dunning c Hierome Blunt WAKEMEN. 1426 Anthony Day, and John Snow 7 Abram Bell 8 John Digby, gent* 9 William Single 1430 John Bland 1 William Bolkend 2 Peter Brough 3 John Pulley 4 Ralph RatclifFe 5 William Geldart 6 John Fairborn 7 John Bayne and William Wilson 8 Francis Smith, gent* 9 Thomas Watson 1440 Allan Newton 1 William Snow 2 John Wythes 3 Adam Spence 4 Lawrence Rawlirc 5 Peter Webby and John Fiebdie 6 Thomas Porter 7 John Stare ley S Peter Cumberland n lerkin DF RIPON. 23 144.9 Jen kin Pratt 1450 William Fox 1 Ralph Todd 2 Lambert Johnson 3 John Stephens 4 William Puileyn, gt, 5 George Pratt 6 Ralph Clay 7 Francis Steel 8 John Spetd 9 Ralph Tankard 1460 James Gloyer 1 Peter Robinson 2 John Major 3 William Staveley gt. 4 John Grame 5 Thomas Hebdin gent. 6 Peter Jenkins 7 Jonathan Freebodine and William Leak 8 Francis Saunderson 9 William Shipton 1470 Thomas Snow 1 Randal Piggct 2 John Whaire 3 Ralph RatclifFe 4 Hierome Newby WAKEMEN. 1475 V/illiam Tod J 6 Piter Welhy 7 John Fa.vcett 8 Thomas G!evv, gent. 9 Janus Hebdin, gent. 1480 John Pvipley 1 Peter Berson 2 John The tn ten 3 James Candale 4 William Thorpe 5 John Norton, gent. 6 William Se'lby 7 Roger Harman 8 Peter Kitchinman 9 William Bove, gent. 1490 Reginali Stamwcrth 1 Chiistopher Bailie 2 Marimduke Barton 3 Roger Selby 4 John Peelgrave 5 Robert Bakehouse 6 Nicholas Porter 7 Robert Hatter 8 Robert Leeds, gent. 9 Thomas Glew, gent, 1500 John TopcliiFe 1 Michall Casson 4 John 24 THE HISTORY - WAKEMEN. 1502 John Ha' man 3 Richard Goldsbrough 4 John Sherwood 5 John Bowland 6 Stephen Thorpe and William Middleton 7 Hugh Stickbuck and Kobeit Kettlewell 8 George Bellgate and Jonathan Pansack. 9 Roger Nunwic, gent and William Steel 1 5 10 John Cook 1 William Batty and William Carver 2 Richard Holmes and William Wilson 3 Simon Blowmond 4 Thomas Bilton and Lawrence Langhorn 5 Henry Sedgwick and Thomas Fisher I 6 Richard Percival and Willian Steel 15 17 John Middleton 8 John Backhouse 9 William Brigham and Simon Bateman 1520 Tliomas Gayscar 1 Thomas Mankin and Thomas Winepenny 2 William Leeds and Robert Baron 3 William Hepden and Richard Goulthart 4 Thomas Hallat and Edmund Ward gent 5 William Horner and James Cle. k 6 John Dickinson and Abraham Cumberland 7 Thomas Kettlewell and Richard Plain 8 Lawrence Hodgson 9 Richard Terry 1530 Rowland Wilson 1 Thomas Staveley gent 2 Richard Bell 3 William f In this year Thomas Duald made the Toll-booth Bell, and presented it to the Wakeman, OF RIPON. WAKEMEtf. 25 1533 William Gentleman 4 William Kettlewell £ Jonathan Johnson and William Steel 6 Thomas Benson 7 Anthony Vickerby 8 Ralph Cook 9 Robert Ripley 1540 John Middieton 1 George Younge l Christ. Darnbrcugh 3 Ralph Bell 4 Henry Atkinson 5 Matthew Snow 6 John Walls 7 Nicholas Horner and Ralph Ripley 8 James Fletcher 9 Robert Harrison 1550 William Scott 1 John Thornton 2 William Wheatley 3 John Holmes 4 Hugh Fox 5 William Thomson 6 John Smith Imund Lockey 1558 William Rayner 9 Thomas Rigg 1560 Willi an Smith 1 Robert Ripley 2 Chris topher Dale 3 John Sweeting 4 William Harrison 5 Thomas Ripley 6 Richard Monkton 7 John Rigg 8 Emery Coates 9 Robert Kettlewell 1570 Thomas Sawyer 1 John Hodgson 2 Thomas Newell 3 Christopher Thornton 4 Jeffrey Metcalfe 5 George Batty 6 Thomas Hebdin 7 Christopher Gaines 8 William Watson 9 John Milner 1580 Thomas Grainge 1 John Dobby 2 Henry Lockey 3 Vincent Mstcalf and Thomas Ripley 4 William 26 THE HISTORY WAKEMEN. 15S4 William Wray 5 Anthony Holmes 6 Anthony Vickerby gt 7 Roger Holmes 8 Christopher Franke 9 Richa-rd Cook 1590 Ralph Hutchinson 1 Richard Rayner 2 Thomas Dowgill 3 Thomas Barber 4 William Fawcett 1595 Simon Browne 6 Thomas Harland 7 John Middleton, gent. 8 Henry Singleton 9 Francis Helev and Simon. Askew 1600 Simon Askew 1 John Green 2 Thomas Wardropper 3 Thomas Candall MAYORS. 1604 Hugh Ripley* the last Wakeman and first Mayor. 5 Anthony Taylor 6 Henry Snow § 7 William Fawcett 8 George Pulleyn 1609 William Cook 1 6 10 Roger Holmes 1 Thorn? s Cundall 2 Thomas Wardropper 3 William Batty 4 John Green 5 Francis Theakston 6 Hugh * See page 16, and Appendix No. 2. § In the Mayoralty of Henry Snow, was purchased, the Mace, which is now born before the mayor by the serjeant at mace, on public occasions. 2 7 l6i6 Hugh Ripley 7 Simon Brown 8 Joseph Burton 9 Anthony Taylor 162O James Thompson 1 Edward Kirkby 2 William Batty, jun; 3 Ralph Warwick 4 John Hartley 5 Miles Moody 6 Thomas Redshaw 7 Thomas Topham and Miles Moody 8 Miles Percival 9 Leonard Thompson 1630 Hugh Ripley 1 William Cook 2 Thomas Cundall 3 James Thompson 4 Ralph Warwick 5 Edward Wright 6 Barthclo. Kettlewell 7 Wilfriu Saunderson 8 Th< mas Redshaw 9 William Holmes 1640 Richard Mawtus 1 Thomas Cundail OF RIPON. MAYORS. 1642 Leonard Thompson 3 Miles Moody 4 Ralph Warwick 5 Nicholas Kitchen 6 Sampson Cowper 7 John Jefferson 8 William Newell 9 Thomas Rounthwaite 1650 Henry Kirkby 1 Christopher, Horner 2 William Bramley 3 Anthony Braithwaite 4 Arthur Burton 5 Henry Spence 6 Henry Green 7 William Bramley 8 Nicholas Kitchin 9 William Holmes 1660 John Spence i John Horner 2 George Rodshaw 3 Sir Edmund Jennings, Knight 4 Jonathan Jennings esq, 5 Walter Strickland esq, 6 Walter Lister, esq. 7 Henry Redshaw 8 William 28 THE HISTORY MAYORS. 1 668 William Gibson 9 Geo:geCatton 1670 William Hebdin 1 William Busneld 2 John Milner 3 Henry Craven 4 Edward Kirkby 5 Cuthbert Chambers 6 George Horner 7 Roger Wright 8 James Dobby 9 Thomas Jackson 1680 Thomas Craven 1 John Stroother 2 Christopher Atkinson 3 William Myers 4 Cuthbert Chambers 5 George Calton 6 Christopher Hunton 7 John Dawson 8 William Chambers 9 Thomas Charnock 1690 Stephen Palliser 1 William Waterhall 1692 John Sedgwicke 3 Cuthbert Chambers 4 Roger Wright 5 Thomas Jackson > 6 Thomas Craven 7 John Stroother 8 William Myers 9 William Chambers 1700 Charles Lister 1 John Sedgwicke 2 The Right Honorable John Aislabie || 3 Thomas Charnock 4 Stephen Palliser 5 George Pinckney 6 Cuthbert Chambers 7 Roger Wright 8 Thomas Jackson 9 William Chambers 1710 John Ripley 1 Christ. Braith^aite 2 Johnson Wood 3 Henry Green 4 Charles Lister 5 J°hn || He was Chai.cellor of his Majesty's Exchequer &c. &c. MAYORS. 1715 John Sedjwicke 1 I 74 2 Thomas Broadbelt 6 Thomas Barton 29 7 Wiiliam Homer g Christopher Waine 9 Christopher Hunton 1720 Charles Oxley 1 Richard Cundali 2 Joh?' Charnock 3 Jan cs Jackson 4 William Aislabie Esq 5 Stephen Pallis^r 6 George Pinkney 7 John Homer 8 Charles Lister 9 William Horner 1730 Christopher W»ine . 1 Charles Oxley 2 Simon Hutchinson 3 John Charnock 4 George Loup 5 Stephen Palliser 6 James Jackson 7 John Wilsoa 8 Charles Oxley 9 James Horner 1740 William Aislabie Esq; 1 William Chambers 3 John Lister 4 William Theakston 5 Edward Braithwaitc 6 John Horner 7 Simon Hutchinson 8 George Loup 9 Henry Kirkby 1750 George Charnock 1 John Wilson 2 Charles Braithwaite 3 William Thompson 4 James Horner 5 Matthew Bcckwith 6 John Lister ' 7 John Hutchinson 8 William Askvvith 9 Richard Grainge 1760 Edward Ayiton 1 Wiiliam Grimston 2 John Terry 3 William Theakstoa 4 Her.ry Kirkby 5 George Charnock 6 Christopher Braith- wa«te 7 Matthew Beckwith William 3# THE HISTOfcT MAYORS. 1768 Wm, Lawrence* Esq ; 9 William Askwith 1770 John Hutchinson 1 Charles Allanson 2 William Grimston 3 John Terry 4 Peter Horner 5 Thomas Walker 6 Thomas Horner 7 William Robinson 8 Richard Beckwich 9 Christ. Braithwaite 1780 John Hutchinson 1 Thomas Wilkinson 2 William Askwith 3 William Grimston 4 William Bell 5 The Hon : Frederick Robinson fl 6 John Terry 1787 Thomas Walker 8 Thomas Horner 9 William Robinson 1790 Richard Beck with 1 John Hutchinson 2 Thomas Wilkinson 3 Thomas Terry 4 John Ewbank 5 William Grimston 6 William Bell 7 John Stevenson 8 William Atkinson 9 William Downing 1 800 Robert Shaw 1 John Pearson 2 Thomas Wilkinson 3 William Colbeck 4 John Britain 5 William Theakston 6 RECORDERS * He represented this borough in several parliaments. Sf Brother to the late Lord Grantham, who was Ambassador to the court of Spain, and late representative in parliament for this borough, • F RIPOM, |! RECORDERS of RIPON, Ffom its first incorporation by King James the first, to the year 1 806, inclusive. Appointed by Charter, j 9 ff g John Priestley Esq; 24th. June ^04 Sir William Dawson, knight, 12th. January 1686 Chosen. Sir Richard Hutton,* knight 1 $ lo Thomas Proctor, Esq; 8th. April x 6i 7 John Waistalf, Esq; 5 th. May ^6 Richard Etherington, Esq; 25th. October 1659 Christopher Driffield, Esq; 3d. October 1673 William Dawson, Esq ; 15 th. October 1678 Rowland Norton, Esq ; 31st. December 1688 Christopher Driffield, Esq; 1st. January 1706 Richard Bayne, Esq; 30th. September 1723 George Hassell, Esq; 30th. October 1767 William Withers,f Esq; 5th. September 1778 John Williamson, Esq; 17th. May ^02 D2 Br • Serjeant at Law, Recorder of York; and afterwards •ne of the Juages of the court of Common Pleas. t Also Recorder of York. 32 - THE HISTORY Br the constitution of this borough, the right of election for burgesses to serve in parliament, is vested inthe burgage tenures, which is a strong proof of its antiquity, * Having sent burgesses in the twenty-third year of the reign of Edward the first, and the first of Edward the second, an omission of return took place until the last parliament of Edward the sixth, or the first of queen Mary, when the right was restored ;t and Ripon has ever since continued to return two representatives to parliament, "RIPON." " This borough is the property of Mrs. Allan* " son, who possesses the burgage tenures, in right u of which she nominates the two members. " il It sent members the twenty-third of Edward ft the first, was discontinued the next year, and iC restored in the first of Edward the sixth. " €i Corporation consists of a mayor, recorder, " twelve aldermen, and twenty-four assistants. " " Right of election in burgage holders. M *' Number of voiers— one hundred and forty-six." " Returning * Blackstotie's Commentaries, vol. 2. p. 82. f History of English Boroughs, vol. 3. \ :(6. OF RIPON. 33 w Returning officer — The Mayor." " Proprietor — Mrs. Allanson. Oldfidd's History of Parliaments, 390. August i6tb. 1617. King James the first was at Ripon, on his way to Scotland, where he stop- ped all night, and lodged at, a Mr. George Daw- son's. After being addressed by Thomas Proctor Esq; the recorder, in a speech adapted to the occasion, he was presented by the mayor, in the name of the corporation, with a gilt bowl, and a pair of Ripon Spurs, § of the value of five pounds, M which" says an apparently contemporary manu- script " gave such contentment to his majesty, that 41 his highness did wear the same at his departure 44 from the said town the day following. " The manufacture of woollen cloth is said to have formerly flourished here to a considerable extent. This however was carried at an early period, to those places where fuel was in greater abundance. Leyland, who wrote in the reign of Henry the eighth, observed " on the farther ripe d 3 " of § Ripon spurs were of such repute, that *• As true ■f Steel as Ripon Rowels " became proverbial, when •peaking of a man of iatrepidity, honesty, or ffdelity. 34 THE HISTORY *' of the Skell, a grete nombre of tainters for " woollen cloaths wont to be made in the towne li of Rff ort.^ but say$j " that cloihe-making there, " was then almost decayed." * To recover this manufacture, the late W. Rich- ardson M. D. bequeathed by will, an annual pre- mium of five guineas for the best, and three guineas for the second best piece of linen or woollen cloth, spun and manufactured in the borough of Ripon,.or within three statute miles; to be deter- mined at the mayor's summer feast in August : we are sorry to observe that this good intention has not had its desired effect, there being seldom more than three or four w r ebs shown for the prizes. A. D. 1633 £f? 1644. King Charles the first visited Ripon, and was each time received with that respect and loyalty, which on thus, as well as on every other occasion, have distinguished this town. The great national occurrences which took place in the years one thousand six hundred and thirty nine and forty, and produced that fatal rup- ture between the unfortunate Charles the first and his parliament, and terminated in the tragical death of that monarch, can only be mentioned kere, as they eventually led to the congios of Scots *u4 OF RIPON. 35 *tid English Commission r held at this place, in a building now taken down, the scite of which forms a part of the gardens of the Reverend G. Allanson. To enter into an historical detail of the events which occasioned this congress, would be foreign to the design of this work, and would draw us from our original purpose, locality. We must therefore be contented to refer our readers to those who have written on national history. It v ill be necessary however, slightly to mention some particulars, as they are too nearly connected with the history of this borough, to be totally disregarded. J. D. 1640* The king was now reduced to great perplexity: the unfavourable aspect of his affairs at home, in consequence of his late defeats, ma 'e a deep impression on his mind, and the near prospect of a formidable invasion from Scotland, still heightened his distress. The passage of the Tyne had been forced at Newburn ; and a detach- ment of the English army, under the command of Lord Conway, repulsed, and driven southward; and such was the panic with which the English forces were struck, that they fled, with the utmost precipitation from Newcastle to Durham, and from thence continued a hasty march into Yorkshire. Thi 36 THE HISTORY The Scots wishing to be thought mild and conciliatory, apologized in the royal presence for their late victory, and protested that their only design was to lay their grievances at the foot of the throne, and to procure an amicable adjustment of them. The king was now in great distress, the nation in a state of general discontent, and the army be- come so dispirited, that no object was so much to be desired by all parties, as a cessation of hostili- ties In this exigency, his majesty called a council of all the peers of England, to meet and attend him at York, within twenty days. Having met accordingly, he addressed them respecting the pe- rilous state of the kingdom, and the subject of the scots' petition, and desired their advice on the reply which it would be proper for him to make. After much consultation and debate, it was determined, that a treaty should be entered into with the scots; for the negociating of which, it was resolved by the peers, " That certain of themselves should be " sent as commissioners to treat with commission- u ers of theirs, to the number of sixteen. ' The Earls of Bedford, Hertford, Essex, Salisbury, Warwick, Bristol, Holland, and Berkshire, Vis- count Mandeville, and the Lords, Wharton, Paget, Brooke, OF RJPON. 37 Brooke, Pawlet, Howard, Saville, and Dubs • more, were appointed to this very important negociation; who desired the assistance of others conversant with the laws and affairs of Scotland. The Earls of Traquaire, Morton, and Lanerick, Mr. Secretary Vane, Sir Lewis Steward, and Sir John Buiough, were named by his majesty to assist them : And after much trouble it was determined that Ripon should be the seat of conference. We add a short account of this transaction, from the memoirs of Sir Henry Slingsby, who was on the spot ; and who wrote a journal from the year 1638, to the >ear 1648, abounding with mat er illustrative of the general history oi those trouble- some times, and more particularly of such occur- rences as took place in the county of York ; of which he was high sheriff in the year 161 1. " The 24th. of September, the king and the si lords met together in the great hall at the dean's 4< house in York, to consult what answer to give u to the scotch petition, and how the king might " have a supply of money to retain his army, in w the mean while things were in debite. Aid it " was concluded upon the first day, that comrais- " sicners should be appointed, to the number of " sixteen, 38 THE HISTORY 44 sixteen, earls and lords, and the place to be at 44 Ripon, to meet such commissioners as the scotck 44 lords at Newcastle, should appoint." 44 And of this their conclusion the scots were " nude acquainted by an especial messenger from 44 the king, and my brother Belasyse was appointed 44 to carry it ; and for a supply of money, a letter 44 was sent by my lord Chamberlain, lord Goring, 44 and my lord Privy Seal, unto the city of London, 44 in the name of all the lords, to borrow twohun- 44 dred thousand pounds, and but fifty thousand €l granted Out of a desire to know how thingi 44 would go, I went to Ripon to the parley of the 44 English and Scotch lords who met there the last 44 of September. After much dilatoriness and 44 messages sent to and fro', in three weeks timt 44 the parley broke up, our english lords having 44 condescended to the demands of the scots, and 44 five and twenty thousand pounds a month for 44 two months, were granted to maintain their 44 army about Newcastle, 'till all things were agreed 44 upon by our English parliament." 44 My lord oi Holland kept his table at Ripon, 44 for all the lords, and the scotch commissioners 44 were sometimes invited by him, who kepi a 44 good correspondence with one another. 'I hey 44 § in a kind of alcove- This was erec- e ted • See a lift of the fairs at the end of this work. 4* THE HISTORY ted at the expence of the late W. Richardson M. D. with this inscription, UTILITATI PUBLICiE. A. C. M DCCL VI I I. The TOWN HALL stands on the south side of the square ; it is an elegant building, designed by Mr. Wyatt of Lon- don, and consists of a handsome suite of assembly rooms, a committee room, for the meetings of the corporation, and for the transaction of justice bu- siness, with other suitable apa.rtmen.ts It was erected in 1801, at the ex pence of Mrs Allanson of Studley. The stone of which it is built was dug from a quarry on her estate, about four miles from Ripon. In the centre of the front, is a pediment, support- ed by four three quarters Ionic columns, eighteen feet high. The length of the building is forty- eight feet five inches; height, including the pedi- ment, forty-six feet five inches ; depth, eighty-five feet six inches. The principal room is forty-five feet long, twenty-five feet wide, and twenty feet high, finished in a superior style, and ornamented by a picture of Mrs. Allanson. A OV RI*0». 43 A NEW THEATRE, built by the late George Hassell, Esq ; was open- ed by Mr. Butler's company of comedians, on the twentieth of August 1792 ; the scenery and deco- rations are excellent, and the manager endeavours to provide a respectable dramatic corps, with the novelties of the day, for the gratification of the publk, during the season. 8 % PUBLIC 44 THE HISTORY PUBLIC FOUNDATIONS.* The FREE GRAMMAR SCHOOL, Is situated in St. Agncsgatc, and consists of a good house and garden for the use of the master, and a commodious school for the scholars: It was en* dovved in 1553, by king Philip and queen Mary.t Its revenues are managed by trustees, who are a body corporate, and have a common seal with this inscription. SIGILLVM PRO SCHOLA DE RIPPON. A PUBLIC DISPENSARY. For the relief of the sick poor, was founded here in 1790, and is supported by subscriptions and voluntary contributions. It appears by the annual report published Apr! first, 1805, that 3829 pati- ents have been admitted since the commencement of this charity, of whom, 3270 have been cured., 170 relieved, and 181 have died. The • For an account of Hospitals &c. see erd cf the ad part + For the charter, see Appendi* No. |t OF RIPQN. 45 The SUNDAY SCHOOLS a>;d SCHOOL Of INDUSTRY Are also supported by charitable donations, and proper conduct both in the masters and scholars, is insured by the frequent visits of several ladies and gentlemen, to whose active benevolence the schools owe their establishment, POPULATION of RIPON. Jprii 1801. Houses 529 Families 746 Males 147c Females 1 741 Baptisms in i&oo, 194 — Burials, 123 — Marriages, 55. E 3 ANTIQUITIES. 46 THE HISTORY ANTIQUITIES- FEAST of St. WILFRID. This feast is celebrated annually, and continues nearly a week. On the Saturday after Lammas- day, an effigy of the prelate is brought into the town preceded by music, the people go out to meet it, and with every demonstration of joy, comme- morate the return of their former patron from ex- ile. The next day is dedicated tp him, being bere called, St. Wilfrid's Sunday ANCIENT CUSTQM- There are the remains of a very ancient custom* once generally observed here by the inhabitants ; On midsummer eve, every housekeeper, who has in that year changed his residence, into a new neighbourhood, (th^re being certain limited dis- tricts called neighbourhoods) spreads a table before his door in the street, with bread, cheese, and ale, for those that choose to resort to it, where after staying awhile, if. the master is of ability, the company arc invited to supper ; and the evening is concluded OF RIPON. 47 concluded with mirth and good humour. The introduction of this custom is immemorial, but it seems to have been instituted for the purpose of introducing new comers to an early acquaintance with their neighbours : or it may have been with the more laudable design of settling differences by the meeting and mediation of friends. CURIOUS NARRATIVE. The archbishops of Yoik, had formerly a very splendid palace near liere, at which they held much of their residence, and a Jioble park ; Leyland says tf as I went from Ripon to West-Tanfield I pas- ■" sed by a great parke, of the archbp's of York, " abt. vi miles in cumpass. 11 In the year 1234, says Paris, was a great " dearth and scarcity of corn throughout the whole "kingdom, but more .especially in the northern " parts of it. For three years after, a great mor- " tality raged; multitudes died as well of pestilence " as famine; the gre.it men at that time taking *-*< no care to relieve them. Archbishop Walter f< Grey had then, in granaries, and elsewhere, a u stock of corn which if delivered out would have 4 * supplied the whole country for five years. But w l iet her they didnot orFer him price enough, or 48 THI HISTORY 41 for some other reasons, he would not part with 44 a grain of it. At length being told that the corn " st xks and great ricks would suffer for want of <4 thrashing, being apt to be consumed by mice, " and other vermin, he ordered it should be de- " livered to the husbandmen, who dwelt in his " manors, upon condition they should pny as much u new corn for it after harvest; accordingly some u of his officers went to Ripon, where his largest " stores were reposited, and coming to a great u stack to take it down, they saw the heads of " many snakes, adders, toads, and other venomous M creatures peeping out at the end of the sheaves, " This being told to the archbishop, he sent his u steward and others of good credit, to enquire «" into the tiuth of it, who finding it true would " nevertheless force some of the countrymen to " mount to th: top with ladders and throw down u some of the sheaves. They had no sooner as- " cended but a thick black smoke seemed toaiisc " from the midst of the corn, which made such " an intolerable stench, that it soon obliged the " husbandmen to come down again, declaring they " never smelt any thing like it before. " As they descended they heard a voice say, let " thtCQrn algne } for th$ archbishop and all that belongs " him of ripon. 49 41 him is the devil's due" * In fine, they were obli- ged to build a wall about the stack, and set it li on fire, lest such a number of venomous crea- " tures should get out and infest the whole country. V This is the honest monk of St. Albans' Story .t • ** Voeem autem andierunt sibi dicentem, ne ad u bladum manus apponerent, quia archiepiscopus ct * omnia qu«s habebat diuboli possesaio erat. MATT. PARI?* | Drake's History of York, 246, 5© THE HISTORY ELLA's or ALLA's HILL. At the east end of the town, and not far from the minster, is a remarkable tumulus, commonly called Ellshaw or Ailcey Hill ; Camden says, in his time it was called Hill-Shaw. Its shape is conical, the circumferance at the base is about 900 feet, the length of the side near the road about 222 feet. Here is a tradition that it was raised by the Danes, we are however inclined to favo ir the opinion of that very learned antiquarian Mr. Thoresby, who, speaking of the coins of Alia, Osbright, Alfred, Eanred, and iEthclred, found at Ripon, A. D. 1695, and transmitted to him by the archbishop of York, declares that he was not a little pleased on first discovering the coins of Osbright and Alia; a description of two of which we will here give — Alia king of Northumberland An: 867 ALLAE ^ X the first in Sir A. F.'s X Table. Another, little different, the reverse of nei- ther legible: He further adds, that the name of the particular place where these venerable though obscure remains of the old Northumbrian kings were dug up, is now called Alice-Hill, no doubt from Alia's Hill, that is, from Alia king or North- umberland, OF RIFON. 51 umberland, who, according to the Saxon Chroni- cles, was slain in the year 867 and not in 926, as Speed, and from him Isaacson mistakes. Danish Sticas and other coins are even now frequently found in the minster-yard.' This hill, from its base to the apex, is composed wholly of sand, gra- vel, and human bones. By some it is conjectured to be the rubbish of a monastery, ruined in the contests of the Danes and Saxons; but the vast quantity of human bones found in digging into it, without the least appearance of any mortar or ce- ment, leaves no room to doubt that it was a depo- sitory of the dead. The Danes and other Northern people used, in this manner, to inter those who fell in battle. At what time, or on what occasion, this mo- nument was formed, must still remain uncertain; but it is highly probable that the vast number of bodies here deposited, have been of persons who fell in some dreadful conflict near this place, so *>ften the seat of war and calamity. END OF THE FIRST PART. ARMS of RIPON. THE HISTORY OF RIPON, ' Part the Second. Relating principally to ECCLESIASTICAL MATTERS. THE HISTORY OF RIPON, A. D. 449. AJJREADFUL was the devasta- tion which followed the arrival of the Saxons, in this island ; a fierce and rapacious people, unre- strained by humanity or religion; whohuiried on by an insatiable thirst after plunder and dominion, in somewhat less than a century and a half after their landing, subdued, and possessed themselves of the whole country, which they divided into se- ven kingdoms. The christian religion, which before this, flourished in Britain, was wholly abo- lished by the Saxons, who professed Paganism. Their own idols were set up, and idolatrous wor- ship established. The Britons were plundered, their cities, towns, churches, and public edifices " destroyed, *' as Gildas the historian informs us, " from the east " sea to the west." f 2 About 56 THE MISTORV About the year 597, Augustin the monk, by his preaching, converted Ethelbert, king of Kent, to Christianity. The example of Etheihert was fol- lowed by several other princes of the Heptarchy \ and in little more than si*ty years, the faith of Christ was established nearly throughout the Saxon states ; with it prevailed the true spirit of humanity, a regard to rational polity, and the wel- fare of the people. Cities and towns were rebuilt, fortresses, and other public edifices erected, and the sees of bishops, and monasteries, were then founded. To each cathedral was allotted its clergy, to many their schools; and monasteries with their monks, received extensive possessions. In the reign of Edwin, who married the sister of the king of Kent, the christian religion was introduced into the Northumbrian kingdom ; the king himself being converted by Paulinus, who previous to his going there, was, consecrated bishop of the Northumbrians, and in his favour the see of York was restored by Edwin, which had flou- rished as an archbishopric, in the time of the Romans. J. D. 633. Edwin, the protector and encou- tager of the christian religion, beingslain by Penda king of Mercia, who continued to profess paga- nism , @f RiroN« 57 ttism; Paulinus was obliged to leave his people, and retire again with the queen into Kent, where he settled, in the see of'Rochester. TheNorthum- brian people were fast relapsing into idolatry, when Oswald, the successor of Edwin, a virtuous and well disposed prince, having long embraced the christian tenets, requested the scots to send him fit persons to preach the gospel in his do- minions. J. D. 635. Thi sects readily complied with this request, and sent Aldane a bishop and a monk, with several others, on this mission. Oswald gladly received them, and at Aldane's request, fixed his see and fraternity of monks, atLindisfame, a small island on the coast of Northumberland, where he presided fourteen years, and with unwearied dili- gence continued to instruct and convert the people. The building of churches and monasteries, de- dicated to the service of God, was found necessary for the better instructing of the people in the duties of the christian religion, and carrying on the pur- poses of devotion. J. D. 661. At Ripen, Eata., abbot of Melros$ and Lindisfarnc, first founded a monastery or col- lege of monks, upon a plot of ground, allotted and f 3 give* 58 THE HISTORY given to him for that purpose, by Alfred, king of Northumberland, where, it is said by Bede and others, Saint Cuthbert received and entertained an angel.* When the monks, after the decision of the long controversy about the time of keeping Easter, left their monastery, rather than submit to the catholic observance of that festival, it, together with thirty tenements, was given by Alfred, to Wilfrid, who, [A. D. 663,) was nominated to the see of York, which then included all the North- umbrian kingdom. The histories of those early periods, plainly demonstrate, that monasteries and places of public devotion, were but poor and mean edifices, though calculated to inspire that humility and resignation, which so highly ornament the true christian. Such in all probability Wilfrid, archbishop of York, found the monastery here. The knowledge he had as an architect, and the taste he had acquired in Italj, did not suffer it to remain long in that state after his translation, for he built that stately edifice, which, William of Malmsbury tells us, " was celebrated for its curious arches, its fine M pavements, * See Sand. History uf the church of Durham, pages 119 *nd 127. OF RIPON. 59 " pavements and winding entries ; M and thus he may be supposed to have introduced a belter st\le of building, into England. Under his cheering; influence, the town, which is said then to have consisted of but thirty houses, grew up, and gra- dually became large and populous. During the heptarchy, the town of Ripon was made an episcopal see, subject to the primacy of York.* Three years after king Egfrid had, by the persuasion of his wife, Ermemburga, expelled bishop Wilfrid from his see, Theodore, archbishop of Canterbury, in concert with Egfrid, made Ead- head, the first bishop of the church of PJpon, which afterwards received many and valuable marks of royal munificence. I r will not be improper in this place to give some account of Archbishop WILFRID, as to him is owing, in a great measure, the rise and consequence of this ancient town. It is a matter of surprise that the place of birth, and the parentage of a man, so eminent in life, should * William of Malmsbury says. " the bishop c* Ripon was subject to the see of York. '' See Drake's Hist, of York, 4c S. Go THE HISTORY should not have been handed down to us whh cer- tainty. By some, Ripon has been marked out as the place of his birth, and most authors agree that his parentage was obscure. 0| But of this, there is much reason to doubt, he being early in life placed in such a situation, that the fame of his superior abilities reached the ears of the court, and courtiers themselves were solicitous to patronise him, even yet a boy, and to assist in his education; his per- son was graceful and engaging and his talents fof learning, so remarkable, as soon to attract the queen's notice, § by her he was sent to receive in- struction from Cudda, who had been chamberlain to the king, but had retired from that situation, and become a monk of Lindisfarne; from him Wilfrid received much instruction and improve- ment. He distinguished himself early in life in a con- tention respecting the celebration of the feast of Easter. On this subject the church was much divided, and the people were anxiously looking for an established certainty in the obseivance of that fl Wilfridus in aquilonari An^K.c parte ex teniae ris sortis pareAtibus naius est. Godwin d'Pr^esul. inter Arch. Ebob. 3d. § Eanfle*. GF R1PON. 6l that festival. Wilfrid, at the especial direction of his sovereign, undertook a journey to Rome, to instruct himself from tire heads of the church, in the knowle ge necessary for managing the contro- versy. On his journey he stopped at Lyons, and was detained there by Dalsynus,* archbishop of that see; from whom he received great attention, with an offer of his niece in marriage. After sin- cerely thanking him for his kindness, he set out for Rome, where, on his arrival, he was presented to the Pope and the ecclesiastical council; from them he obtained a perfect knowledge of the gos- pels, with the computation of Easter. Returning through France, he again visited his friend Dal- synus, with whom he had not remained long, when that good and learned man was barbarously murdered, and even he, himself, with difficulty escaped assassination. When he arrived in England, the town and monastery of Ripon were presented to him by king Alfred. A. D. 663. The dispute concerning Easter had risen to such a height as to create dissensions, even in private society. To end it, a council was * Drake. Wulsinus, Godwin. 6i 'THE HISTORY was called, which met at the monastery of Streau- shall, now called Whitby, at the head of which tat St. Hilda, the Lady Abbess, and Cedda, lord bishop of London. The abbot Wilfrid, and a ce- lebrated priest called Romanus, were the advocates for the Romish ; Coleman, bishop of Holy Island, and divers Scottish and Irish bishops, argued for the Scottish computation. Though Wilfrid could not convince Coleman, and his partisans, yet, the king and queen, with ail the nobility present, were so well satisfied by his arguments and plea- scd with his conduct, that in the midst ot general plaudits he was appointed to the see of York, and in the thirtieth year of his age elected to fill th$ archiepiscopal chair. Either from exultation at his victory and sudden elevation, or pique at the obstinacy and self- sufficiency of the Scottish bishops, he refused consecration from them, and immediately sailed for France to receive it there. He was, with great magnificence and so^r lemnity consecrated by Agilbert, archbishop of Paris, assisted by eleven bishops. With these and other learned men of that country he remained longer than was necessary, and his voyage being lengthened by storms and contrary winds, this de> lav was construed into neglect, -.and another was placed OF RIFON. 63 placed in his sec. Cedda, abbot of Lestingham was the person appointed to the see of York during his absence. When Wilfrid returned from Pai is, on finding his see occupied, he retired to privacy in his mo- nastery at Ripon, whence, he was repeatedly invi- ted, by Wolthere king of Mercia, to the bishopric 6f Litchfield: But Cedda, receiving admonition that he wrongfully held the see of York, willingly resigned it, and being made bishop of Litchfield Wilfrid was reinstated in his chair, A. D. 666. In the administration of his duty, his conduct was mild, affable, and liberal, which gained him universal esteem and confidence. Many of the Children of the nobles and other rich men of the Country, were placed under his guardianship, and With them he received such liberal donations, that he became extremely wealthy. His attendants Were numerous, his plate, it is said, was of gold, and his furniture surprisingly rich and sumptuous. He completed the building of his cathedral at York, ornamenting and enriching its altar with great magnificence. By his splendid establishment he incurred the envy and displeasure of Theodore, archbishop of Canterbury, who, to abridge the power and con- st (jue nee 64 THE HISTORY sequence of Wilfrid, applied to the king to con- stitute several suffragan bishops within the province of York ; in this he succeeded, for Egfrid, at his request, divided the northern jurisdiction into four bishoprics, one at York, another at Lind;sfarne, another at Hagulstad or Hexham, these in England, an:l the fourth at Whitehern or Candida-Casa among the Picts. Wilfrid being overborne, left his archbishopric and Bosa was jplaced at York, Eata, at Lindisfarne 5 and Tumbert, at Hagulstad or Hexham in 687. It is said, that the king fur- thered this design of Theodore, on account of a suspicion he entertained of Wilfrid's having en- deavoured to seduce his queen to leave her mo- narch, and pursue a monastic life. Wilfrid sailed for Italy with the intention of appealing to the pope, when by a storm, he was driven into Friczland,* where he remained during the winter, preaching and endeavouring to persuade the people of that country to Christianity ; in this he succeeded, and solemnly baptized the king and many of his people. Arriving at Rome he obtained from the pope, an order that the state of his arch- bishopric should remain without alteration unless consented * Matthew of Westminster, 124, OF RIPQN. 6^ consented to by himself. With this order he re- turned to his native country ; where he found the king, urged by the persuasions of Theodore, still much irritated against him, and the spirit of per- secution towards him raging to such an extent that, to avoid it, he chose a voluntary exile- During this absence from his see, he did not sit idle, or brood over his fate in melancholy, but active ift the discharge of his ministerial duty, he travelled to the north and to the south of the isUnd, preach- ing to, and teaching the people. In Sussex he was well received by the king, who had been con- certed in Mercia, but found the people universally pagans.* In his endeavours, to instruct them ia the christian religion, he succeeded beyond his ut- most expectation; the king gave him the district of Selsea, in which were eighty-seven families; he erected a cathedral, and established an episcopal ■see. Many are the miracles ascribed to him, during his residence there ; but he did not continue long, before he was recalled to his see at York. Being again accused of divers crimes by Theodore, he went G t© # Rapin. Hist, England vol. i. p. 73. Bower. Lives •of the popes vol. 3. p. 74. Eudius, Vu. WiUrid.- , 66* . q'HE HISTORY to Rome to.purge; himself by oath, before the pops, fj;om r whojri he received let f ers in his behalf, not- wiihstandirig which, it. was with great difficulty he because reinstated By the,death of Theodore* he was released from an unrelenting and powerful enemy, and continued afterwards, m the peaceable possession of his dignity. On the 12th. of Octo- ber Anno 711, in the seventy-sixth year of his age. hp ended his variously chequered life, and was bu- ried by his own particular desire, on the south s;de- of the altar, in his favourite monastery at Ripon ; but the bones of this venerable prelate, after the mo- nastery and church at Ripon had been reduced to a ruinous state by the forces of king Ed red, were, A : D 940, removed toCanterbury, by Odo, arch- bishop of that see. The body rested there until the year 1224, when Walter de Grey, archbishop of York, at the instance of the canons of Ripon, had it removed from the old chest, into a new one, the head he ordered to b»e placed and exposed to public view, that the sight of it, might strengthen the faithful m trusting in the mercies of God. The following epitaph, has been preserved, and transmitted to us by Bcde, and others. ttriLFRJDUS OF RIFON. - ; "67 PFlLPRIDUS hie magnus fequiescit corf ore Prasut, Hanc Domino qui autam, ductus, pietatis &nore } Fecit y et etcimio sacravit nomine Petri , ' Cui claves tdli Christus dedit arbiter orbis i Atque auro ac 7yr% devotus vestut cstro. '0kiirr etiam subhrrie Cruris radiante mctafto Hie posuii trophaum ; nee ncn'quatuor'auro Scribi Evangeln pracepit in ordine Ub'tOs^ Ac tbecam e rutilo his condignam condictit'ctur~c>: PaschaUs qui etlam solcnnia tempora enrsuf 4 Caiholici ad justum torrexit dogma 'canonh y Quern stutuere Putres> dubic'qUe errore remotes Certa sua genii ostendit moderamina ritu$ : tnque he is tstis mohachorum examina crebra Colligity ac monitis cavit qua regula patrum Ssdulus instituit ; multisque, domique } forisqtcs Jactatus nimium per tempera longa periclis\ £>uindecies ternos postquam egit episeopus annos } Transuty et gaudens calestia r-eg?;a petivit. « Dona Jesu, ut grtx pastoris calle sequatuf* Which has received the following translation, g 2 flere * Bede zo8. i TO , THE HISTORY Here resteth the body of the great prelate WILFRID, Who out of the love of piety, And to the honour of God, Founded this monastery; Which having religiously beautified With gold and purple He dedicated to that eminent name St. PETERt, To whom, CHRIST the Lord of all, Committed the keys of Heaven, Besides he erected an high triumphant figure df the cross Made of fine shining metal ; Caused the four books of the Gospel To be wut.ten in gold, And a golden box to put them in. He also regulated the solemn time of Faster, By the system of catholic canons, Instituted by the fathers ; And appointed rites and customs, Clear of doubtfulness and error to be a sure rule Ot discipline to his country. In these parts also He greatly increased the number of monks and them regulated With great exactness, According of ai^oft. % According to the constitution of the fathers. After 'he Iftd been forty -five years Bishop And endured *a long series of extreme difficulties Both at hoirle and abroad, He departed this life In joy, looking for a heavenly kingdotfu. Jesus! grant That the -flock may follow The way of the shepherd. His piety gained him a red letter in the calen- dar after his death, and the twelfth of October was .appointed for the annual celebration of . his festival. Nicholson's hist. xib. bail, sub. 12 ocx. He is depicted in a window of the cathedral church of Durham, in stained glass, with a mitre on his head, and a crosier in his left hand, under his feet is this inscription. Sanctus Wilfridus, primo Lindisfarmnsis ?nonachus y post abbas Rlpensis, ultimo archupscopus Eboractnsis\ V?io anno rexit episcopatum Lindisj amen sera. SAND, ANTIQ^-aF DUK tfjfc. He is also represented in thereat west window •of the church of Yo*k. g 3 His JO THE HISTORY His arms, or those since assigned to him, Vie. Asure, three stars with divers rays, with the ancient bearing of the see of York, are over the east arch of the great tower of the cathedral church there. drake 271. 529. 533. Thb same arms, supported by a friar, are car- ved in oak, near the lesson-desk, in Ripon minster. It cannot fail to be observed how closely the history of the third archbishop of York connects itself with that of Ripon. Through his means it gained repute and opulence. His monastery which in magnificence, is said to have surpassed all others, was the occasional residence of kings,* and a general retreat for the northern nobility. By them its possessions were encreased, and became extremely extensive. The princes of the heptarchy thirsting after power, and excited by envy and ambition became jealous of each other War and desolation were the consequences.— Yet such was the regard they had to religion, that in their various contests mo- nasteries and religious houses were accounted sacred, and the possessions of the church were re- spected. W - ■■ . 1 ■ 11 1 m i ■ ■ 1 ■ 1 . ' . ■ » • A D. 678. He entertained Egtnd king of North- umberland, witii his whsle cou;t at his monastery at Ripen, #F RIPON. ' 71 spected. After various struggles, the heptarchy, at length, partly by conquest and partly by descent, became united into one kingdom, under the go- vernment of Egbert, a descendant from the west Saxon kings. Egbert was in*vaded by the Danes He was succeeded by his son Ethelwolf, who repelled the repeated attacks of the invaders, -with success, until his natural inclination for the conversation of monks, and the duties, or rather bigotry of devo- tion, led him wholly to neglect the interest of his kingdom ; which he left exposed to the insults of a rapacious enemy. This conduct caused his son Etheibald to en- gage in a conspiracy against him; a reconciliation however took place, on the king's ceding to him the ancient kingdom of Wesscx. Ethelwolf survived this reconciliation two years; finding his end approaching, he settled by will, the succession of his dominions. Those thdt he himself possessed were bequeathed to his second son Ethelbert, and failing him, to Ethelred, and afterwards, in default of their male issue, to Alfred. Having made these dispositions, he died in peace, and was succeeded by Eihelbald in Wessex, and "Ethelbert in Kent. During fz TH-E •His^ro^v Dit&ing the government of these latter prin£e£, the Danes, whose primary object was plunder,, rather than conquest, over-ran, in marauding par- ties, the whole country, and taking advantage of the weakness and divisions of the Saxons, pro- ceeded with wanton destruction, plundering and destroying cities and othergreat towns, respecting neither sacred houses nor their possessions. A D S6o In these various contests the town of Ripon was wholly demolished, the monastery suffered only in pa-t, and for some time, remained almost uninhabited. On the death of Ethelbert, his younger brother Ethelred inherited his dominions, by virtue of the father's will- This prince had no sooner ascended the throne than he found it necessary to act in concert.with his brother Alfred, against the com- mon enemy, who were now become so formidable, that nothing but the most perfect union could withstand the power of their invasion. The au- thority which Egbert had reserved over the king- doms ot Mercia and Northumberland, had been lately much diminished by the intrusion of those savage pirates, so that these kingdoms btgan to withdraw themselves by little and little, fiom the supremacy of Egbert's successors. The North- umbrians, as being the most remote, shook off their 6? RIPON. 73 their dependance entirely, and elevated Osbright to the throne. The Danes, under a king called Ivar, invaded Osbright's dominions : entering the river Humber, and landing without opposition, they made them- selves masters of the whole country lying to the northward, and then directed their march towards the capital. Osbright sent deputies to Ella, a Nor- thumbrian prince, deslringthat their forces might join against the common enemy ; Ella, though en- gaged at the time in a quarrel withOsbright, agreed to the proposition, from a regard to his own safety. Osbright led forth his troop9 without waiting for Ella, and charged the Danes with such fury* that they could scarcely sustain the shock ; they stood however, until the ardour of the Saxons was abated; and attacking in their turn, obtained a complete victory, Ohbright himself being slain, with many thousands of his follower The Danes after the battle, entered York without further opposition; but understanding that Ella was advancing against them, at the head of a fresh army, Ivar marched out to meet him* and a second engagement easued, as c bstinate as the first, and as fatal to the Nor- thumbrian, who there lost his life.* IVAfc — ^ 1 ; ' '■ ■ ■■ -- ■ ■ ■" "v * See Ella's Hiil* page 5©/ 74 ttfE iii^Tb&Y Ivar having subdued NorthumbeHand, ritad East-Anglia, began to form a project for Ynaki'ftg a conquest of the whole island. He resolved to turn his arms against Ethel red* and embarking his army, landed on the coast of that monarch's dominions. A Very active war Was maintained with cqiui bravery on both side.s ; atfd With Various success. Ivar having received stropg -reinforcements, hazarded another battle, which -proved fatal to Ethelred, who received a wouml that proved mortal. He was succeeded by Alfred, Deplorable was the situation ef the kingdom, wheh thfis great prince ascended the throne. He prose- cuted his enterprises with so much diligence, arM %is indefatigable endeavours were attended with such Success, that the Danes, dreading his invin- cible Courage and activity, proposed terms of peace, 'Which he did not think proper to refuse. The Danes soon broke this treaty, and attacked Alfred in such numbers and with such impetuosity, that finding it impossible to face the enemy, he yielded to the torrent of misfortune, and concealed himself in the most obscure services. Finding his enemies lulled into the most supine security, spending their time in riots and feasting, he took advantage of £hcir situation, and the favourable disposition of the t&e West-Saxons, whose drooping spirits, a victory had lately reanimated. He assembled his trovps. with great alacrity, and in the morning of the third day, was in sight of the enemy, before they knew he had taken the field. Without giving them, time to recover from their surprise, he; fell upon them with such impetuosity, that they were im- mediately routed with great slaughter; and the remains ot them surrendered at discretion. Alfred following up this success by. acts of the greatest policy and wisdom, soon attained the meridian of his power and glory ; he possessed a greater extent of territory than had ever been possessed by any one of his ancestors. Having established his au- thority, hia whole empire enjoyed the most pro- found tranquillity, during along series of years* which he employed in cultivating the arts of peace* and in repairing the mischiefs with which the war Jbad been attended. He rebuilt the monasteries and churches. Ripon, as we have before mentioned, received marks of his royal favour; the rebuilding of the town and monastery soon took place, and in- dustry and perseverance, again brought them into consideration. They did not long continue in a flourishing state, for the town was (A D. 948, ) Wtircly reduced to ashes, by tic army of king Edre*, q6 THE history Edred, and in this conflagration, fell also the mo- nastery, and the church, which had been built by St, Wilfrid, A. D. 705. We have no historical account of the fate of this church and monastery during the succeeding reigns ; until the time of Edward the second, when the invading scots burnt the town. It is very probable that the monastery, then one of the bishop's principal seats, suffered greatly, if it was not entirely destroyed. No re- mains of it are now to be traced; some part of the site, was, (A.D 1415, ) by Henry, archbishop of York, with the licence of king Henry the fifth, granted to the vicars of the collegiate church, to build a house upon, which is now the deanery. We arc told, that there were two other monas- teries here: the one adjoining Priest-lane, said to have been founded by one of the kings of Scotland ; the other a Benedictine monastery, on the west side of Marygate, dedicated to the blessed Virgin; the ruined walls of which, are stili remaining, and inclose apart of the possessions of the deanery; but what was the origin of .these monasteries, or when their declension, we have not been able to discover, OF OF RIPON. 77 OF THE CHURCH OF RIPON. A D 705. The church is collegiate, and was founded by Archbishop Wilfrid, and dedicated to St Peter. The persons present at its consecration were numerous and noble ; they gave much to endow it, viz.— Lands near the Ribble, in Hasmund.rnes,* Gindene.t and Duninge.^ We have before mentioned the destruction of the town in the year 86c, by the Danes: in all probability, the church in part shared the same fate ; though no ceitain account appears of its mis- fortunes until the year 948, when it was destroyed in the devastations made by king Edred,§ on ac- count of the infidelity of the Northumbrians, when he laid waste the whole of their dominions. Pr& infidelitate, rex AnglorumEdredus totam Northumbt iam devastate in qua devastatione, Monaster 'turn quod diei- tur in Hrypon, a sancto Wiifrido episcofo quondam H construe turn. * Supposed Aismunderby near Ripon. f Supposed Givtndale near Ripon. f Dug. M®nas. v. 1. p. 173. Le!. Col. v. 3. p, 169*- § Swt page 12. 78 THE HISTORY constructum, igne est co?nhustu?n.* But the religious zeal and piety of Qdo, then archbishop of Can- terbury, induced him to procure the rebuilding <»f it, which, in a few years afterwards, by the liberal donations of several persons, he accomplished. It is supposed, upon its re-consecration, to have been dedicated to Saint Wilfrid. It now received/ extraordinary marks of royal munificence, the good and virtuous king Athelstan granted to it very great immunities ; it received from him the privilege of sanctuary, with this addition, that whoever infringed its rights, which extended a mile on each side the church, and wee marked and known by metes and bounds, § should forfeit life and estate. And this he granted and confirmed by two charters, one in latin, the Other in old engUsh ver?e.^[ Thus franchised and protected, the church of Ripoti continued to flourish and prosper until the Norman conquest, which extended itself with. much * Dug. Monas. v. i p. 171. Matt, of Westm. 198. § The boundaries of the sanctuary of rhe church of Ripon, were named Kangel Coss Sharow Ciqss, still r^uainiwg, arid the Cross of Aibehtan. f See Appendix Nos. 4* aad 5. OF XIPON. f$ much devastation into the northern parts of the country; in it fell the town and church of Ripon. After this overthrow, the town remained long in ruins and obscurity, until the public affairs became Settled, and by the clemency and favour of him v/ho destroyed it, and his immediate successors, it recovered and again grew into reputation. The Conqueror gave the town of Ripon to Thomas, archbishop of York, who held it at the taking of the great survey;* and Thurstan, one of his suc- cessors wholly rebuilt the church, in the reign of king Stephen about 1140, and gave to it a carucate of land ; and Roger, archbishop of York, who was preferred to that see J. Z>. 11 54, gave one thou- sand pounds to build the chapter-house. Henry the first, granted to thef hurch of Ripon, and to Thomas (the second of that name) arch- bishop of York, the right to hold a fair four days, at the feast of St. Wilfrid; and commanded, that every one Should pafes peaceably there, and return without any molestation-, under a heavy forfeiture. t . • See Appendix No. 1. f Sec 'Appendix Nb/6. i So THE HISTORY To thi?, another charter* was added by king Stephen, confirming what had already been gran- ted, and addi ig fresh privileges. Thus favoured and secured, the church and its liberties remained undisturbed (escaping the mi- Scries of the wars with the barons) until the reign of Elward the second, when the invading scots totally destroyed it by fire, A* D. 1317; after which it laid in ruins until the time of Edward the third. A. D. 1329. By the pious exertions of MehoH, archbishop of York, and of other persons of dis- tinction, liberal contributions were made, for re- building the town, which wis soon accomplished, and the church was again raised fr^m its founda- tions ; the three steeples or spires were erected ; the windows were adorned with painted glass, and the whole was magnificently finished. A- D. 1331. The same good archbishop gave regulations to the canons and other officers of the c s urch, for their better government. § Jn the walls and pillars of the church are the arins of its benefactors, cut in stone, amongs t which * See Appendix No. 7. § See- Appendix No. 8. Which nhnh aTe more distinguishable than thosi bf the Picards. Th f church now enjoyed a s*ate of tranquillity, and received an additional charter * from Henry the fihh for tht betrer government of its vicars; by v hich s-§ piece of grBtihd was granted to them for Greeting one common dwelling Upon- after creating them a body corporate, with liberty to use one tomrhon seal, and to elect one of them to be head or supieme, who should be called " Advoca*e of "the vicars of Ripon," and to prosveute and de- fend all causes whatsoever in his name. And libeity was given to the archbishop of York, by the same charter, to assign a parcel of land to the " advocate an a prayer, and ietn 0* berm, a cell er hermitage. Drake's Hist: of York, 572 82 THE HISTORY " south-west end of the church was a bedern, €i \s hereon was built a cloister set apart for a €i number of religious to dwell in, which was 4 * destroyed by the scots. By the same charter it was granted that the " advocate and vicars" should hold and possess lands and revenues of the yearly value of five pounds; but that it should not interfere with the government of the church, and that the " advocate " and vicars" should still remain subordinate to the " prelates " thereof. At this time there belonged to the church seven prebends with distinct revenues, named and valued as follows. /. s. d. I Thorpe parva 26 13 4 a Bishop- Monckton 24 o o 3 Givendale 24 o o 4 Studley Magna 34 o © 5 Nunwick 24 o o 6 Shirow 22 o o 7 Stanwick 42 o o Thfse prebends had also other revenues an- nexed, which were in common to them all ; and were therefore called communities #r the di- vidend. There • * RIfON. 83 There were also nine chantries within the church; bur where their situations weic, is iiOt f at this time, easy to determine. 1. The chantry of the Assumption, founded by William Fulfort and Robert Kendal. 2. The chantry of the holy Trinityj above the altar, founded by Sir Wilham Plumpton, knight. 3. The chantry of the holy Trinity, beneath the choir, founded by Joan Semball, canon oi St. Peter's in York. 4. The chantry of St. Thomas tie martyr, supposed Becket, archbishop of Canterbury. The founder is unknown. 5. The chantry of St. Andrew, founded by Jefferey Larder and David Waller. 6. The chantry of St. Wilfrid, also founded by Jiffery Larder and David Waller. 7. The chantry of St. John the evangelist and St. John the baptist, founded by John Sherwood. S The chantry of St. James the apostle foun- ded by William Cawoode canon residentary of York, and John De^n, canon of this church, and prebendary of Stanwick. He was buried in the choir of the church. 9. The < haiitry of St. James the apostle, foun- ded by William Chute, and William Lteds- CHAtfTRIES 84 th« HrfSfoftt ChAVTRtes were endowed with lands and other yearly revenues for the maintenance of priests^ whose duty it was daily to perform mass at the respective altars, for the souls of the founders, and such others as were by them narried, on a suppo- sition ot their being leleased from purgatory by these means. There were also several obits belonging to the church. The (bit was originally a funeral office performed when the coipse was in the church, but aft 1 wards became anniversary, and monev or lands tveie given lowards the maintenance of the priest who performed it. The church continued under this governance, until the thirty-sixth year of the reign of Henry the eighth, when it, and many monasteries, col- lege*, &c were dissolved ; and their revenues appropriated to temporal purposes, to enchase the power and gratify the ambition of that prince. A, D 1545. The collegiate church of Ripdn, felt his grasp by the almost total deprivation of its revenues; for though the building itself was not demolished, yet there was scarcely a sufficient Stipend left, on which 1 person, qualified to perioim the parochial duties, cou'd subsist. Pksviuus te this period, it had the seven pre- kendaiies OF RIPON. 85 bendaries whose stipends wc have before enume- rated, and under them six vicars, called vicars choral, who were bound to discharge the preben- daries of all cures and service of the church, for which each of them received the annual stipend of six pounds. The seventh prebendary, viz. the prebendary of Stanwick, was called u the chanter " of the church of Ripon ; " at Stanwick he had a vicar under him, who was to discharge all cures and services there. Two of the prebendaries were enjoined constant residence. A. D. 1547. The chantries were not dissolved until the first year of the reign of Edward the sixth, who seized and annexed them to the dutchy of Lancaster. Vv hen after a survey taken, the whole of the revenues both of the prebends and chan- tries were let to farm, leaving an annual stipend of twenty pounds a year only for the support of an officiating minister. There were also belonging to the church three deacons, three sub deacons, six choristers, six treblers, an organist, and a grammar school-master. To the three deacons was allowed an annual stipend of five pounds and ten shillings, to the three sub-deacons four pounds and ten shil- lings, to the six choristers three pounds and eight shillings, to the six treblers two pounds, twelve shillings S6 THE HISTORY* shillings and sixpence, and to the school -master two pounds ; all which sums were paid out of the general revenues of the church, In the reign of queen Elizabeth, Fdwin, arch- bishop of York, the earl of Huntington, the lords Burlejr and Sheffield, with Mr. Fowler, and some others petitioned her majesty, " to settle *ome more ** means upon the churchy" but their petition was cither wholly neglected or refused. The following account of its ultimate settle- ment we give in the words of a manuscript w Inch has accidentally fallen into our hands, and which we have compared wiih the account given by Mr. Gent, " In the beginning of king James* reign, somie " petitioners moved his Majesty, who granted to €l the petition, and gave to the church the whole " revenues unsold as they were beiore its dis- 4i solution " " But the then lord treasurer Buckhurst, by €i means of one Johnson, and Theakston, after €i passage of the great seal, made a s*ay thereof, so ** that the petitioners were glad to petition again, " and by that obtained their desire, the fee farm " rents only reserved to the king; which rents are u enjoyed by the church* and have been ever since « the OF RIPON. 87 u the first or second of king James, whereof the •■ prebend of Stanwick is a part Test. Chris- M topher Red^haw. Edward Moodie. cum muhis ■« aliis. ** Kin© James the first 2 Die August i, 2 Regni 11 sui constitutes the late dissolved collegiate church u of Ripon, to be a collegiate church forever ; to " consist of oneZ)*tf# and six Prebendaries ; and, for " their maintenance grants to them dirers lands, M prebends, chantries, and rectories belonging to 44 the said church before the dissolution, paying <; to the king and his successors one hundred u pounds, " The dean and chapter swrrender all the said €< lands, tithes, prebends, and chantries, 10 his u majesty by deed enrolled, 8 diejanu: 5 Jacobi" 11 The king's majesty, by his letters patent un- " der his great seal, and dutchy seal, granted an u annuity of three hundred and forty-seven pounds €t issuing out of certain prebends and chantries «< mentioned in letters patent, to be paid by his " receiver general, with a clause for distress upon €l non-payment/' " Upon a petition of the dean and chapter to his €i maj sty, setting forth, " That the auditor, and « particular receiver, of the dutchy of Lancaster, had < fc not 88 THE HISTOXY u not paid the said annuity * but alleged many difficulties u therein Die. 2 Mar : 6 Jacobi" — " His ma- 11 jcsty by warrant of privy seal authorised Sir " Thomas Perry kt. then chancellor of the dutchy, 44 awd ^ir John Biograve kt. attorney, to determine 44 sundry things for the quiet enjoying thereof, as " by their decree under seal appears. " Die 8* 44 Feh : ii. Jacobi. " By another decree the said 44 chancellor and attorney, with the consent of " Mr. Shillito, the then receiver general of the 44 dutchy, ordered and decreed, that the dean and €( chapter forever after should appoint a recei/er 44 for themselves, and his majesty's receiver not to " intermeddle therewith, but only to have four 46 pounds and five shillings for his fee." This decree, amongst many other things awards to the dean and chapter, all such tithes in Ripon, and of and in the several towns and fields cf Ripon, Puteleybridge, and Grantley, or elsewhere, as have been a long time charged, answered, or accomp- ted for, under the title of communities ot the said former collegiate church. Soon after this all the old prebends which re- mained unJispcsed of, were sold by the crown. But by i grant 8 Jan . 5 Jac: l ; they were all respectively chaigeu with a fee farm rem, payable t# OF tlFOtf. 89 to the dean and chapter, which grant was after- wards confirmed by a decree of the court of ihe dutchy of Lancaster, The two following copies of the old annual receipts of the church are taken, the first, from Sir Thomas Herbert's account of it, the latter, from the manuscript Jo which we have befor* attended. REDDITUS ECCLESIjE. L s. d. Olim duo Stipendarii - - - - 40 o o Fines quadragesimales -----20 00 Decimse de Ripon ------ 80 00 Decimae The^2ur,.rii -----40 00 Redditus Cantariarum ----- 60 o o Pateley Brigs ------- 20 00 Decimse de Nyd ------ 1000 Decimae de Grantley ----- 200 Mortuaria - - - - -'- - - 400 Liberi Redditus ------ 300 Alii Redditus -------200 Decimse Iviolendinorum - - - - JO© Pro fabrica ecclesiae redditus - - - 90 o Risaw Wood ------- 20 o o REDUCED Cp THE HISTORY REDUCED PREBENDS POST MORTEM. I s. J. Prebends and free rents - - - - 198 13 2 Aismunderby rents -----28122 Communities -------1^944, Several chantries ------ 52 14 2 Obits - -------- 10 88 Fabric Rents ------ -19 00 ANNUAL RENTS OF RIPON CHURCH. Fee farm rents and the prebend of Thorp 23 14 10 Nunwick 26 11 8 Sharcw 27 8 6 Monckton 1992 Skelton alias Givendale . . . • 19 10 of Studley 26 11 3 Aismunderby free rents . . • . 28 12 2 House, barn, and garths, of the late 20© Jonathan Jennings, Esq; A close in Ripon 034 Markenfield small tythes • • . . o 13 o Obit rents 10 15 3 Small tithes of several villages . . 30 o o Bi-sidc* .......... 10 o o Fabric - Tir" - T"* fl"" ' 1 ' J — - 1 1 i_ . 1 " ' " * Sapposed for " Bishopside. " or RiroN. 9* /. J. d. Fabric rents . ...... • 9 3 8 Treasury tithe . . • < . . IO Tithe of town fields . . < . . 46 8 6 Tithes of Whitcliffc . . . 1 Small tithes • 13 10 3 Westwick small Tithes '5 Chantry of St. Thomas • • 7 4 Chantry of St. Andrew • 5 t6 9 Chantry of the Lady Loft . . 7 «4 7 Chantry of St. Wilfrid • « 5 3 e Chantry of the Holy Trinity . . 12 3 2 Chantry of St. Mary, Clotherholrr IC . 2 14 7 Chantry of St. Mary, Stammergat e . 4 *9 4 Chantry of St. John the Baj )tis t . . 2 '5 6 The valuation according toDugdalc,tisas follows /. s. d. " Rypon Ecclesia Collcg . 035 03 08 n We beg leave to add a further valuation from Tanner, taken in the 26th. of Henry the eighth. " Church of St. Wilfrid, herein are seven 41 prebends, 12 u Thorpe I Dug. Monas, 1-046. 9^ THE HISTORY /. S. . " Thorpe — — — — . 20 o © " Stanwyge — — — 4* o " Skelion and Jevenhale — 15 10 4 " Monkton — — — 24 12 £ Sharrow — — — 14 5 2 " Studley ~- — _ — 26 l! 4 " Nunwike — — — 21 o • " And srx Vicars, each worth 600 11 The revenues of the com- 4i munity were valued " And the fabric rents at - 12 11 7 :om- j And he adds, " I have been more particular in u putting down the valuation of the prebends, and f * the estates oi this church, becau.e they are not " mentioned in Ecton, or any of the printed vahi- " ers; huving recoveted the same out of a transcr [ 1 u from the first fruits office, before the roll for 44 York diocese was lost. The guess valuation o 44 these prebends, as printed in Stevens's supple- 44 ment, vol. 1. p. 58. 41 Stanwigge - - - 42 u Thorpe - - - 40 marks "Studley ... 34 „ " Monketen CF RIPON. £ " Monkcton - - - 24 " Skelton - - - 24 M Nunwicke - - - 24 " Sharrow • - _ 22 93 It appcais also, by the following agreement between the chapter of Ripon and the convent of Fountains, that there was a chapel, now decayed, on Michael- how-Hill, attached to this collegiate thurch; "St. MICHAEL'S CHAPEL DE MONTE. " In A, D. 1346, it was agreed between the ** chapter of Ripon and the abbot and convent of " Fountains, that the said abbot and successors u should have divine service celebrated in the said " chapel, and receive the oblations there; for 4 which the abbot Sec. were annually to pay the " chapter of Ripon ol. 2s. 6d. * 1 j We ^ * Barton's Mon, Ebon p. 198. There was also a chapel at Aisaiuiiderby, at Ciotiierholire a and at Huttou- Conyers, as appears by the mor^ ancient records or me ciiaicri ; and the name of Aaptl garth yet remains m the several villages. At Hutcon-Ctayers was an aaciept •seat or the Malories before taey became possessed vf 5xudicj/, 94- THE HISTORY We 'have been fortunate enough to obtain seve- ral other ancient accounts of the revenues of the church, but thinking those we have already copied, may b^ i ffici.ntly satisfactory to our readers, we have forborne to publish them. OF THE PRESENT STATE OF THE CHURCH. The following account of the deanery and church of Ripon is, in part, extracted from Bacon's Liber Regis. DE RIPON. A peculiar jurisdiction, including Masham, under the archbishop of York. It is exempt by Statute of Eliz. i. chap. 4. from the payment of first fruits and tenths, though it stands thus. King's Books. Yearly Tenths. I s. d. I $i d. Boo Dux Cantar. D. Ripon o 16 o 24 o 7! Hosp. Stae. Mariae Magd 2 8 0$ lo 14 4I Hosp. Sti. Johan. Bapt. 1 1 5* The king is patron of the deanery. The arch- bishop of York is patron ot the two Hospitals, hey lu ve, of late years been held with the deanery ; and «F RIPON, 95 a*d the ircome of the deanery and of these mas- terships together, is about £250. per annum. The establishment of the ancient church here, was for canons of the order of St. Augustin, and was dissolved by Henry the eighth The chantries were afterwards dissolved by Edward the sixth, James the first, in the second year of his reign, refounded the church, and endowed it with part of its former revenues. The collegiate church of Ripon, is dedicated to St. Peter and St. Wilfrid, and consists of a dean, sub-dean, and six prebendaries; out^of these, the dean, upon a vacancy, elects the subdean ; and, as to the prebendaries, the dean and chapter nominate three persons to the archbishop of York* who must collate one of them. The sub-deanery, about ^40. per annum. Each prebend, about ^£25. per annum. The church of Ripon is proprietor and patroa of the following curacies-, or chapelries, within the parish, viz. I s. d, Bishop-Monkton, improved value about 42 o o Bishop-Thornton, iirproved value - 55 o o ?ateley- Bridge, (parochial cur; St. Mary)- ™ Saw ley, 1 s. d. 49 3 5° 40 96 THE HISTORY Sawley, (St. Michael) about — - Skclton, improved value, about Winkslcy, about — — — - The curacy of Aldfield cum Studley (St. Law* rence) is likewise in this parish, value about £61 per annum; but the patronage, in consequence of benefactions, is vested in the heirs of William Aislabie, Esq, The dean and chapter of Ripon are likewise patrons of the curacy of Cleasby, in the diocese of Chester, and of the school founded there by Dr. Robinson late lord bishop of London. BENEFACTIONS TO THE CHURCH. J. D. 1719. Roger Bayne gent, by will, gave to the dean of Ripon for the time being, and his successors, yearly for ever, twenty shillings for an anniversary sermon, to be preached in the afternoon of the first Sunday in January; and eight shillings for candles to light the church at that time. He also gave twelve shillings yearly, to be laid out in bread, and distributed in the church, to twelv« poor widows, on the first Sunday of every month ; which sums, are payable out of his estate at Ripon, J. D. OF RIPON. qj J. D. 1721* Dr. John Robinson, lord bishop of London, by will, gave to the dean and chapter of Ripon, for the time being, and their successors forever, the yearly sum of twelve pounds, payable out of his estate and lands at Hewick in this parish, for a sermon, to be preached in the collegiate church of Ripon, every Sunday afternoon from Lady-day 'till Michaelmas* John Lister, Esq; gave by will, two pounds two shillings, for a sermon to be preached in the afternoon,' on the Sunday nearest to St. John** Day. «x*tt*A£$K£$ftft**X>« The Church upon the first Nomination. 2d Aug: 2! Jac : 1 Dean — — Mo -s J owbr 1st Prebendary Ch s;opher Lyndall id Ditto — William Crashavvc ^d Ditto — 'William Barker j^tb Ditto — Robert Cooke 5/6 Ditto — George Proctor bth Ditto — William Bewe Sub dean — John Favour, L. L. D. added 8 Jun : $th Jac: 1. DEANS 9§ THE HISTORY DEANS. When nominated 1604 2d August (idjac: 1) Moses Fowler B D. was master of St Mary Magd : Hosp: in February 1586. In 1590 resigned the rectory of Bransburon. In 1591 was instituted to Silkston: Died 1608 and was buried atRipon. 1608 Anthony Higgins, B. D. 1624 JohnWilson, D. D. had been a prebendary ; was head-master of Westminster school, rector of Bedal, vicar of Burneston, and also prebendary of Westminster and Lincoln: he died 19 February 1634. 1635 23 April, Thomas Dodd, chaplain to king Charles the first, prebendary of Litchfield, and rector of Terrington. 1660 31 August, Joha Wilkins* S. T. P. a pre- bendary of York, and bishop of Chester in 1668, and had the character of a universal scholar: |j He married a sister of O. Crom- well, and in his time was warden of When • See his epitaph, I See an account ©f hirn in Granger's Eng. v. 3. p. 247* OF RIPON, gg When nominated Wadham College, Oxford, and preacher at Gray's Inn: He died 19 November 1672.$ 1674 30 May, John Neile, D. D. a prebendary of York and Durham, and archdeacon of Cleveland: He was burled at Ripon. 1675 21 August , Thomas Tullie, D. D. rector of Griggleton, Wilts, where he died. He was the noted adversary of Bishop Bull, but not equal to his opponent in argument. 1675 1 February ', Thomas Cartwright, D. D. a prebendary of St. Paul's, Durham, and Wells, and bishop of Chester in 1686. He followed the fortunes of king James the second and died in Ireland 15 Jpril 1689, a pompous funeral was bestowed upon him by king James's party in Dublin, but he died a pro- testant: He was chaplain to king Charles the second. £ 1686 6 November, Christopher Wyvill, D. D. a prebendary of York': He probably succeeded Dr. Hooke, who died 1688, in the master- ship of the hospitals of St. Mary Magdalen When § Vide Athen : Oxon. yoI. 2. page 505. $ B. Willis's ch« Chester, page 336. IOO THI HISTOJtY When nominated and St. John the Baptist. The deans, his successors, lnvc since held these hospitals. He was buried at Ripon. f 1710 10 March, Heneage Dering, L. L. D. a prebendary of York, archdeacon of the East- Riding, and rector of Scrayingham. § 1750 16 August, Francis Wanley, D. D. a pre- bendary of York, Southwell, and Hereford, and rector of Stokesley 1791 2\ January , Robert Darley WaddiloveD. D. had been prebendary and residentiary, now a prebendary of York, and archdeacon of the East-Riding. $T Dr. Dering married a daughter of archbi- shop Sharp, and was his chaplain; Dr. Wanley was chaplain to archbishop Hutton ; and the pre- sent dean of Ripon was chaplain to archbishop Drummond, and for several years to the present distinguished prelate Dr. Markham, who has long filled the see of York with the highest credit, and the utmost satisfaction to its extensive diocese, and to the province. SUB-DEANS.
  • York. 1733 John Wakefield, A M. rector of Sessay. 1749 John Fogg D. D. rector of SpofForth. 1774 CuthbertAllansonD.D. rector of Wath near Ripon,and chaplain tothe house of commons. 1780 Robert Darley Waddilove A. M. rector ,x>f Cherry-Burton and vicar of Topclifte, was •* elected, and continued residentiary, 'till he succeeded to the deanery. 1 791 Edward Carne A. M. a prebendary of York and vicar of Aberford. 1805 Thomas Brand A. M a prebendary of Lin- coln and rector of Wath near Ripon. FIFTH PREBEND. 1604 George Proctor A M. rector of Berwick in Elmet, and master of St Mary's and St John's hospitals; resigned. 1625 Thomas Walker A. M. 1661 Tobias Swinden M A prebendary of York. 1661 John Littleton M. A. 1681 JohnMilnerB D. vicar of Leeds. In 1688 he was deprived of his preferments, for re- fusing the oaths, and died a non-juror. When 108 THE HISTORY When elected, 1690 Edward Morris L. L. D. vicar of Aldborough ; appointed upon Milner's deprivation. 1720 Thomas Perrott A M. curate of Yarm. 1 728 Thomas Rudd A M vicar of North- AUerton. 1733 J onn Forster, A M. rector of Staveley in the diocese of Chester. 1742 Thomas Warwick A M rector of Copgrove in the diocese of Chester. 1755 Christopher Driffield A M. vicar of Fe- therston and rector of Burghwales 1788 J. Holdsworth A. M. vicar of Normanton* 1801 Peter Haddbn A M. vicar of Leeds, SIXTH PREBEND. 1604 William Bewe A M. 1 61 3 Edward Wright A M. nominated by the king, resigned. 1615 Matthew Levet A. M. see sub-deans. 1634 Richard March S. T. P. He was the only surviving prebendary at the restoration in 1660, when he was nominated to the dea- nery of York, but not regularly presented 'till the 25th July 1660, and was installed Whin OF RIPON. XO9 When elected. 20th August ; presented by the king to the archdeaconry of the west-riding 1641. 1973 George Parish D. D. a prebendary and succentor of York, prebendary of Southwell, rector of Weldrake, and there buried ; had been archbishop's chaplain, and fellow of Trinity college, Cambridge. x68S Roger Altham D D. Hebrew professor and canon of Christ-church college, Oxon ; and prebendary of York. 1714. Henry Lodge A.M. minister of St: John's, Leeds. 171 8 Marmaduke Buck A M. rector of Marston. 1759 James Wilkinson A. M. vicar of Sheffield. 1805 Thomas Trebeck M. A, vicar of Wath- upon-Dearne. The present VICARS-CHORAL are, The Rev. Richard Browne A. B. rector of Normanby. The Rev. Isaac Godmond, vicar of Burton- Leonard. The lid THE HISTORY The OFFICERS belonging the church Are, an Organist, Clerk, five Song~men y six Choristers or Singing boys, and a Verger* The ARMS and SEAL of the CHURCH ARE ALIKE, VIZ. A representation of the church with its thtee spires ; the Holy Lamb standing upon a book, holding a banner crusaded, for the crest. OF OF RIPON. Ill OF THE CHURCH IN ITS PRESENT STATE. It is a large and venerable gothic structure, "which has been built and altered at different pe- riods, and in several instances exhibits singular changes from the saxon to the gothic style of building. At the west end are two uniform square towers, one hundied and ten feet high, on each of which, at the rebuilding of the church by archbishop Thurstan, was placed a spire of timber, covered with lead, of the height of one hundred and twenty feet ; these, to preserve the uniformity of the fab- ric, after the spire on the middle tower had been destroyed by a storm of wind, or perhaps for want of means sufficient for reparation, were taken down by order of the chapter; and the towers remained in that state, until the year 1797, when the present dean, whose constant attention is directed to repair and adorn the fabric under his care, added open battlements with pinnacles at each corner: In 1804 also the inside walls of the church were re- paired and coloured: He has also had, with the aid of subscriptions, the floor of the church entirely re-laid; and chieflv new flagged, Abost 112 THS HISTORY About the time of Richard the third or the be- ginning of the reign of Henry the seventh, the two side aisles, intended to have had stone roofs, (as ap- pears by the supports yet remaining in the walls,) were probably added to the body of the church r The choir was likewise extended to the east, as is observable both within and without, and about the same time also, several windows were lengthened and altered from the round to the gothic arch. Two of the four fine large saxon arches, supporting the great tower (called Wilfrid's; which is one hun- dred and ten feet high, were changed to the gothic. The east and south sides of this tower are cased on the outside, with stone wrought in the gothic style, and two of the pinnacles with part of the raised battlements which were then added, still remain. It is much to be regretted that these alte- rations were never compleated, as the irregularity is very apparent, but it was probably owing to the failure of the funds for effecting the work, or some other similar cause, that prevented its completion. Upon Saint Wilfrid's tower stood also, a noble spire one hundred and twenty feet high, but of much larger'dimensionsthan those before described, which was blown down on the eighth of Decem- ber 1660. By the fall of this spire the arched roof of OF RIPON. irj of the choir was entirely broken in ; the fine gothic canopies over several of the stalls were destroyed, and the body of the church received so much injury, that the estimate for rebuilding the steeple, and other necessary repairs, amounted to the sum of six thousand pounds and upwards ; for this a brief was obtained the same year, (12th* Charles second) with the money collected upon it, and other contributions, the church underwent a complete repair. The knots or center blocks of the groined roof, which also was then broken in, are still pre- served in the chapter-house, and exhibit very curi- ous specimens of carving in oak, of figures * foliage &c. A considerable part of the present minster, was begun A. D. 133 1 and finished in 1494, as appears from dates in the choir ; so that from the beginning to the end of the work, there was a space of one hundred and sixty-three years. On the north -west angle of the great tower is a cupola, in which hangs the prayer-bell, the motto upon it is expressive of its office. # L 4 In * Voco vera pre care \ II4. THE HISTORY In the north tower hung the great bell, § said to have been brought from Fountains' Abbey, and used here in tolling for the dead. In t^e south tower hung five bells, which were taken down in the year 1762, and, together with the fine bell from Foun- tains, were re-cast by Messieurs Listor and Pack of London, into a peal of eight, the expence of re-casting and hanging them was five hundred and fifty-seven pounds eleven shillingsand eleven pence, which was discharged by a public subscription. From the west entrance, on each side of the body arc six pillars, including the corner pillars in both numbers, which form five arches; on the second pillar at the west end of the north aisle arc two shields of arms cut in stone, one containing the arms of the town, the other those of the Pi- card family, who were great benefactors to the re- pairs of the fabric in the time of Edward the third ; on the south wall of the choir are also the arms of the § Its diameter was four feet and three inchei. Tke motto upon it was. I. H. S.^ Orate mente pia Pro robis Virgo Maria ! Alexander Episcopus Ebor: Dei gratia &c. of uroN. 115 the Picards and some other benefactors; supposed to be of the same date. The choir is separated from the other part of the church by a partition or screen of stone, nearly twenty feet high and adorned with curious carved work; in the middle of it is the door into the choir, over which stands + The ORGAN; Esteemed a very fine one, it was built ty Gerard Smith in 1696, and was repaired and ornamented in the year 1789, by Mr. Donaldson of York, who added one stop to it, at the expence of Dr. Edward Ayrton of his Majesty's chapel-royal. On each side of the door, upon the screen are four niches with pedestals, on which were placed statues of those benefactors to the structure in the reign of Edward the third, whose arms are placed on the front of each pedestal, but are now so defa- ced that it is impossible to discover to whom they have belonged. On the door are carved the arms of the see of Yoik, of St. Wifrid, and other benefactors. At the west entrance into the choir are stalls for the dean, sub-dean, and prebendaries, enriched L 2 with Il6 THE HISTORY with much carved work, similar to those in the cathedral at York ; of these the dean's stall is on the right, and the sub- dean's on the left hand of the -entrance ; the rest are assigned to the prebendaries by a label over each. They were begun in the year 1489, aud finished in the year 1494, at the charge, as is supposed, of archbishop Rotherham, There are thirteen other stalls on the north side of the choir appropriated to the use of the mayor and aldermen ; on the south side are the archbishop's throne, and eleven other stalls generally occupied by the common councilmen of this borough, and below on each side of the choir are scats for the vicars. choral, singing-men, chorister?, and inha- bitants. The seats in the stalls are all of oak, and when turned up, exhibit different richly carved represen- tations of animals, figures, and foliage ; upon the crocket of the seat next to the dean's stall, is the date 1489. The finials before the stalls, and the crockets to the seats are of exquisite workmanship, particularly those at the deans, sub-deans, and archbishop's seats ; as are also two small canopies, one near the mayor's the other adjoining the arch- bishop's seat. On OP RIPON. 11^ On the finial, with the arm* allotted to St. Wil- frid, is the date 1494, and the same date is also on some wood-work in the north aisle of the choir. On the south side of the choir are the vestry and chapter-house, which, with the vaults beneath seem by far the most ancient part of the fabric, having the appearance of a distinct building, and were very probably an entire church, as may be con- jectured from the circular end. If any part of the building could be supposed to have escaped the re- peated ravages by which it suffered, these might be taken for some remains of St. Wilfrid's original church. It is very propable that the lady-loft and library were built upon the vestry and chapter-house, about the time of Henry the seventh, when the aisles were added to the body of the church. In the CHAPTER-HOUSE Are several paintings on wooden pannels, well executed, viz. Edward III. Richard II. Henry IV. Henry V. Henry VI James the I. and his wife and prince Henry, eldest brother of Charles L Richaid III. Elizabeth his consort, and Margaret his mother, Henry VIII. Catharine Parr, Ann Bo- kn, Jane Seymour, Edward VI. and queen Mary. l 3 The lit THE HISTORY The LIBRARY Is filled principally with ancient books of divinity, a few classics, and some manuscripts ; chiefly the library of Dr. Higgins. The ALTAR PIECE Is a curious perspective painting, allowed by ar- tists to be an excellent performance, but it is unfortunately of a different order of architecture fiom that of the church, which destroys the effect it would otherwise have of appearing at a distance as a continuation of the same building. Under the nave of the church is a chapel, by some supposed to be dedicated to the holy trinity, in which is a place called Saint Wilfrid's needle, that appears to have been used as a confessional: these chapels are called Crypts * and were used for the services of the holy week: Besides the entrance from the body of the church, there was one for the priest from the choir. The length of the chapel is ten feet six inches, breadth, seven feet six inches; height, nine feet. In the transept to the north, near the entrance into the choir stands a stone pulpit oi curious workmanship. The * From their being in concealed or secret places. OF RIPON. M9 The IRON GATES, At the north and south entrances, were given by Mrs. Kitchingman in 1802. DIMENSIONS OF THE CHURCH, Height of the choir to the square 63 feet. Height of the aisles in the choir 29 feet 8 inches. Height of the choir to the ridge 79 feet. Height of the nave to the ridge 88 feet 6 inches. Width of St. Wilfrid's steeple from east to west 33 feet 6 inches, from north to south 32 feet 5 inches. Length from the choir door to the west door, within the walls 171 feet. The whole church, inside, 270 feet long, including the choir. The choir is 99 feet long and 67 feet broad, aisles included. Body of the church is 87 feet broad. The great spire upon Wilfrid's tower which was blown down— -the bans c;Q feet square; height, 120 feet, and 4 ches wide at the top. Breadth >2Q THE HISTORY Breadth of the nave, exclusive of the aisles 40 feci 7 inches. Length of the aisles ilo feet 8 in- ches. Breadth 17 feet 10 inches. Length of the transept 132 feet. Breadth of the transept 36 feet. Height of the south arch of St. Wilfrid's steeple 22 feet — of the west arch 26 feet 4^ inches. Height of the screen 19 feet 3 inches. Length of the vestry 28 feet, breadth 18 feet 6 inches. Length of the chapter-house 34 feet 8 inches, breadth 18 feet 8 inches. EAST t-F.ftlFON. I2X EAST WINDOW. Thi whole of this window was formerly filled with beautifully stained glass, much of which was destroyed by the soldiers under the command of Sir Thomas Maulevercr, Anno 1643. What parts of the broken glass could be collected, were repla- ced in the window. But by the exertions of the present dean, it has been wholly renewed with painted glass* executed by the late W Peckett cf * The secret cf painting on glass, was never lost, though much interrupted (see Waipoie'a anecdotes of paintirg vol 2J. page 16.) la Mr. Thcresby's mu.eum (see Ducatus Leodiensfe* page 492) was tnc picture of Mr, Henry G, ; cs .vrojght in Mezzotinto by tne eel brated Mr, Francis piacr of York, when that art was knovn to few others, called there, the famous glass painter of York, It may not be unwelcome to the curious reader to see some anecdotes of the revival cf taste for painted glass in England. Isaac Oliver, and Henry Giles died aoout ginning of tne last century ; and tor many years ;irds William Price and his son were tue oaiy painters in this style in England. One Rowell, a plum- Reading, did some things, particularly for the ke ; but Rov\eL's colours soon vanished ; he locrA out at las: a very curable beautiful red, but he and the secret wiik him. A r name*. a, began the same art at Birmingham in 112 THE HISTORY of York. In the middle compartment are the arms of king James the first, under which is the following inscription. POTENTISS: PRINCEPS JACOBUS MAG: BRITANNLE ET FRANCIS MONARCHA ECCLESIAM COLLEGIATAM DE RIPON RESTAURAVIT ET REGIO ST1PENDIO D1TAV1T II. DIE AUGUST-. A. D. 1604. ET A. REGNI ANGLI-ffi ET HIBERNIiE II. The arms of William Markham archbishop of York, and of Peter Johnson Esq ; late recorder of 1756 or 1757, and fitted up a window for Lord Lyitleton, in the church ofHagley, Worcestershire. Soon after him Peckett at York began tke same business, and made good proficiency in it. And in later years the cele- brated Jarvia of London brought the art to the highest degree of perfection, both in design and colouring. It was carried en with great success in the neighbourhood of Birmingham by Egington's son, who died in the spring of 1805 ; for a list of his works see Gentleman's Magazine. April 1S05, page 387, May page 482 3, and July page 606. OF RTFON. 123 of the city of York, and supreme judge of the dean and chapter's court of Ripon ; and the arms •f the present dean with this inscription Rob, Darky JVaddllovs, DECJNUS MDCCXCII. In the other compartments, are the arms of Beilby Porteus, lord bishop of London; J. Robin- son, late lord bishop of London, and ambassador at the Hague at the peace of Utrecht: of the lords Grantham and Grantley ; cf Blacket and Ingleby baronets ; of Aislabie, Weddell, Wood, Allanson, Oxley, and Dawson, Esquires; of the deans Dering and Wanley; and of Goodricke, Wilkinson, Lawson, Meek, Preston, Holdsworth, Carne, and Worsley, prebendaries of the church ; together with the arms of the church and of the town : Those of Osb : Markham Esq; learned steward of the canon fee manor, and of KadJon, prebendary, have been lately added, and were painted by Mr* C. SwanfelJer of Ripon. THE OPPOSITE LARGE WEST WINDOW Has been entirely repaired* In the centre is a small 124 THE HISTORY small compartment of stained glass with a crest, and the date, 1789. On the wall under this window, is a small marble tablet inscribed* REFICI CURAVIT R. D. W. Rtiidehilarius et Decanus M, D, C C, XCIL MONUMENTS. • F XIPOM. 125 MONUMENTS. Within the chapter-house is a small monument, (after a design of Bacon's) thus inscribed; The Memory of the just is blessed : Prov ; ch : X, v. 7. Sacred to those virtues which adorn a christian : This Marble perpetuates the Memory of Ann-Hope Darley Waddilove, Wife of The Reverend the Dean of this Coll: Church, And Daughter of Sir L : Grant of Grant Bt : After a long and painful Illness supported with singular Patience and Resignation She departed this Life the 21st. of May 1797 in the 51st. Year of her Age With the fullest Hope of a joyful Resurrection : Her gentle and amiable Manners, with every domestic Virtue, The genuine offspring of a benevolent and religiousMind, Procured her, whilst living, universal Attachment and Regard, And excited at her Death, not less universal Regret, Thomas their eldest Son died 2 March 1799 a S e( * l h And lies er f orrb'd beside his mother, Whose amiable Dispositions he inherited Whose Virtues he imitated and equaiFd. 12$ CH? BISTORT Mary Catharine their Daughter died In her Infancy, and is buried at TopclifTe. Mrs. Waddilove, and Mr. Thomas D. Waddilove, are deposited in the dean's vault under the chapter-house. The remains of the late Mr. Weddell of Newby-Hall, are deposited ia the same vault ; where Mr. Wood's family of Hollin- Close, also have a burial place. In a chapel north of the choir door is a very hand- some monument, being a full length representation of Si a Edward Blacket, bart. with a lady on each side, in mournful attitudes. — Mary his first lady, daugh- ter of Thomas Norton of Langthmne Esq ; and Mary his second lady, daughter of Sir John Yorke of Rich- mond. Inscribed. Here lieth the Body of Sir EDWARD BLACKET, of Newby, Bart. He was thrice married, first to Mary oaly Child of Thcmas Norton of Langthorne, in the County of York, Esq ; she had issue onl y one Child, named William, who died in his Infancy, she not long surviving. Secondly to MARY, Daughter of Sir John Yorkt, of Richmond, Kt. who had Issue six Sons, viz William, Edward, John, Thomas, Christopher, and Henry j and s X Daughters Elizabeth, Henrietta, Maria Akthea, Isabella, Ann, and Christiana. His or *ipon. 127 His third Wife was Diana Lady Delaval, Relict of Sir Ralph Delaval ci Seaton Dclaval, Bt. Daughter to Gtergt Lord Delamere, and Sister to Etnry first Earl of Warrington. She had Issue by Sir Ralph t)ela A g ed 6 3- XJ4 **t HISTORY A marble monument, with the arms of Hatsell. This Monument is erected To the Memory of George Hassell Esquire Late Recorder of this Town Who died the XVII Day of Jul/ MOCCLXXVlIt A§s4 mm ymm, a! §9 T@ Ai Um& y of his Wiftt -Margaret l^on fester Haisdl WW Died the XV Day of J au MDCCLXKI'I Agt d XXVI Ywi, On a plain marble* Inserrbfd. Near this pUc§ are deposited thg Remains of ANN WOOD, Eldest Daughter ©fshelalt William Blade, Esquire, $he Dkd Stpttmbir the lyX 1797 Aged 67 Years, NORTH CROSS AISLS, On the win-ilows. Arms of Lindley, Staveley, Burton, Gi ess wold, Cook, and Littleton, On OF Mr ON. I35 On a marble monument. Sacred To the Memory of Mr. FRANCIS WHITE of Ripon Register of this Church XXXIII Years who died the XXIII Day of November MDCCLXXVI Aged LIII Years. Or* a mural tablet. Near this place lie The remains of George Sinclair ■ who died April the VIII MDCCCIV Aged XXXI. •nly Son of the late Reverend George Sinclair A* M* Rector of Wilford in the County of Nottingham And of Martha his Wife. During his short Pilgrimage on Earth, He was exemplary as a dutiful Son, An affectionate Brother, An Honest Man and a Pious Christian. His afflicted Mother has erected this As a small tribute to the Memory of so beloved a Son. On I36 THE HIST01Y On a marble monument. Sacred to the Memory of EDWARD RIDSDALE Esqj Died May XX, MDCCLXXVI. Aged LXVI Yean Also To the Memory of his Brother CHRIST: RIDSDALE Esqj Died Mar. VII. MDCCLXXXVII. Aged LXVIII Year*. On a marble monument, with a medallion of John Lister, Esquire. Sacred To the Memory of John Lister * Esq; Descended from the Listers Of Braithwaite-Hali in this County He died the first of September . MDCCLXXXVIII Aged LXXXIV Years. Elizabeth his Wife died the first of June MDCCLXXII Aged LXXII Years. On # He founded the Evening Lecture upon the Sunday nearest to St. John's Day. OF RIPOtf. I37 On a mural monument. Near this Place lieth the Body of ELIZABETH NORTON Widow of Thomas Norton, Of Grantley in this Parish, Esquire. Site was the Eldest Daughter of William Serjeantson of Kirby-Malham-Dale in this County, Esquire ; W&s baptized the 4th. Day cf November 1692 and died the 10th. Day of September 1774. On a very ancient altar tcmb of free stone, are two whole length figures. There are also upon this monu- ment shields of arms of many ancient families, viz. Neville, Scrope, Stafford, and others, which, as well as the inscription, are so much defaced as not easily to be made out. On a mural monument of black and white marble. Sacred , To the Memory of EDWARD RIDSDALE Esq; Died May XX, M,DCC,LXXVI Aged LXVI Years. Also To the Memory of his Brother CHRIST ; RIDSDALE Esq ; w Diecf J3$ THE HISTORY Died Mar. VII. MDCCLXXXVIk Aged LXVIII Years. SOUTH AISLE OF THE NAVE. O n the windows are the arms Of Sir John Goodricke Bart, of Ribston. Of Sir William Tancred, Bart. Of Sir Solomon Swale, of Swale-Hall, Bart. Of Sir Christopher Wandesford of Kirklington, Bart» Of Sir John Lewis of Ledstone, Bart. On a marble monument. Near this Place is interred the Body of HELLEN, the truly sitectionate, and most deservedly beloved Wife of ROGER BAYNE, Gent, by whom she had nine Children ; whereof Hellen, Anne, Richard, and Roger, * survive. She was the only Child of Mr. George Pickers" gill of this Town, by Elizabeth his Wife, Daughter of Mr. Christopher Walker of Grewelthorpe : And departed this Life, March 24 (being Easter-Day) 1694-5, in the 34th. Year of her Age. Qualis erat. Lector, to which, the dean of Ripon for the time being, has of late years been appointed. MASTERS. OF RIPON. I^q MASTERS. Nicholas de Molyns, was master of this hos- pital in the tenth year of Edward the second. Nicholas Clark sub-dean of York, was master in 1440. Moses Fowler, dean, was master in 1586. John Favour L L. D. sub dean and vicar of Hallifax, was master in 1608. Robert Cook was master in 1624: resigned. Richard Hooke D-D. prebendary of Ripon, re- built the hospital, and was master in 1674. Thf deans, Wyvill, Dering, Wanley, and Wacidilove, have held this mastership with the deanery. Mrs. Wilson, widow of Mr. Alderman Wil- son, left by will, ten pounds, and directed that the interest of it should be distributed annually at xhristmas by the master. The l6o THE HISTORY The HOSPITAL of St. JOHN BAPTIST, Is in Bondgate and was founded by one of the archbishops of York, early in the reign of king John ; but for what number of poor, does not now appear. The building is small, and at present appropriated to the habitation of two poor sisters who have each an annual allowance of one pound seven shillings and sixpence. Near the hospital is a chapel dedicated to St. John Baptist, in which it is said divine service was usually celebrated every Sunday until the year 1722 In it was a chantry, supposed to be founded by John Sherwood who founded a chantry in Ripon church, and is said to be buried here, near the steps to the altar, under an old uninscribed gravestone. The archbishop of York is patron of this hospital which is styled the hospital of St John the Baptist, in Bondgate, in the parish of Ripon. Valuation in the king's books. /. s. d. "St. Joh. Bapt. juxta Rypon Hosp. 010 14 o4f" Tenths 1 1 5* From OF RIPOK. l6l From first fruits and tenths, this hospital is ex- empt by Statute of Elizabeth. MASTERS, 1604 Christopher Lyndall, 1624 George Procter 1625 John Bramhall 1660 John Wilkins, dean, 1672 Richard Hooke The deans Wyvill, Dering, Wanley, and Waddilove, have held this mastership with the deanerv. The HOSPITAL of St. ANN, In Agnesgale, sometimes called i Malso?i de Dieu, 9 was founded, as is supposed, by some of the Nevills in the reign of Edward the fourth ; and the arms of that family found there, may be presumed to afford some reason for the supposition. On the outside of of the building are the arms of Sir Solomon Swale, with initial letters and a date, " S. S. 1654." The mayor and corporation aie masters of it. The iever.uesof this hospital arise from land near Ripon, and are applied to the relief of eight poor women, who have each a residence and an al- lowanceof three pounds fifteen shillings per annum. P JEPSON l62 THE HISTORY J£PSON's HOSPITAL. This hospital is situated in Low-Skellgate, and was founded and endowed in the year 1672, by Zacharias Jepson of the city of York, apothe- cary, a native of this town, who, by will, dated the ninth day of March A. D. 1672, gave his house in Skellgate to feoffees therein named, in trust, to be made into a convenient hospital, such as the feoffees, or four of them should think fit, at the expence of his executrix, not exceeding one hun- dred pounds, for twenty orphan boy s> or very poor tradesmen's sens, born in Ripon, who are by the said will to be admitted at the age of seven years, and are to be elected by the feoffees or four of them, twice in the year, viz. on the Tuesday next after Lady day, and Michaelmas-day, in the most convenient chamber of the said hospital; and twenty shillings are allowed for a dinner on each feoffee* day. If the master of the free school in Ripon, should judge any two of the boys, who have been four years and upwards in the said hospital, fit to be sent to Cambridge, they are to continue in the said hospital 'till they be sixteen years and a half old, and then to have twenty pounds a year allowed* OF RIPON. l6^ allowed, for seven years, to support them at that university; and if one or both of the said boys should, during any part of that time, discontinue from the said University, then his or their twenty pounds are to cease, and others being qualified as aforesaid are to be elected in his or their places, the next half year's day, and to enjoy the like sum, from time to time, forever. And the master of the said school is to have forty shillings for every boy so elected and admitted into the said University. That the usher of the said free school, being a bachelor of arts, and elected by the said feoffees ©r four of them in the chamber aforesaid, paying the rents, observing the customs due to the lord of the manor, and performing the injunctions by him enjoined, shall be master of the said dwelling or hospital, and his successors for ever. The master to provide every boy with a blue coat lined with yellow, a blue cap, breeches, and doublet, blue stockings, shoes, shirts, and bands ; their coats must be of good blue cloth, and only faced with ytllow, such as the said feoftees or four of them showld think fit : they are likewise to have break- fasts, dinners, and suppers of good and wholesome meat, and convenient lodging in the said hospital ; together with washing and all Qther conveniences ; p 2 for 164 THE HISTORY for which he shall be allowed the annual sum of six pounds each. The said master is to lave ten pounds a year for his care in teaching the said boys, and a poor tradesman's widow is to have three pounds a year and a gown for washing their linen, and mending their clothes. He gave by the said will the sum of three thousand pounds to the said feoffees, in trust, to buy freehold land, the rents of which should be by them applied as before directed ; and if the annual rents amount to more than before given, then every boy, having been above four years and a half in the hospital, and his years of fifteen and a half being expired, is by the said will to have fire pounds to bind him an apprentice to a trade in Ripon, and not else- where, which sum must be paid to his master six months after he shall have been bound, or to have more or less as the income shall afford, at the dis- cretion of the feoffees or four of them. The mayor of Ripon for the time being, George Aislabie of Studley-Hall, Esq : and the heirs male of his body for ever. The dean or sub-dean, which ever of them shall be resident in Ripon on the days of election, the two senior aldermen, the master of the free school, the senior four-and-twentieth man, and the constable of Skellgate for the time being, are OF KIPON. 165 are appointed feoffees; the mayor (who is to have the casting vote,) the senior alderman and th& master of the free school, to be always three of them, which three, are empowered by the said will to buy lands for the use of the said hospital. He gave his other house (which was his fa- thers) adjoining the hospital, to his brother Matthias Jepson for his life, and then to his sister Elizabeth Nelson and her heirs, on paying the sum of forty shillings a year for ever to the said feoffees in trust, for the use of the said hospital. But the tes- tator, at the time ot his death in the year 1672, being a free man of the city of York, and married, his widow, (notwithstanding his will; became by the custom of that city, entitled to a reasonable part and proportion of his personal estate, and she claiming the same, his trustees for the said charity recovered only two thousand pounds of the above legacy, which they afterw r ards laul out in purchase of lands and fee farm rents, viz. a. Land within the townships of Ripon andLittletborpe, now occupied by the master, the Reverend Isaac Godmond, at the rent of ... - 12 o *3 A l66 THE HISTORY /. 5. d. A fee farm rent - - --70 2 7 Ditto 70 2 7 £• 152 5 a The fee farm rents are a kind of property •which admits of no advance, and it has been found necessary to reduce the number of boys from twenty to twelve. It is remarkable that no charitable addition has been made to this hospital since its first foundation. Six boys have been sent to Cambridge and one to Oxford. CAMBRIDGE. 1682 March 28, Jefferey, son of Anthony Burtoj* 1682 September 20, John, son of James Simpson 1692 March 29, George, son of Richard Sweeting 1700 March 26, Robert, son of John Durham 1706 March y John, son of George Batchelor 1726 Marchy Richard, son of Henry Sweeting. * OXFORD. 1718 Jpril, Francis, son of Francis Walbran. Over OF RIPON. ,g 7 Over the door of the hospital is the following inscription, Stips Pauperum Thesaurns Divitum Over the door of the master's house, Merita mea Miseratio Domini Zacharias Jepson 1672. END OF THE SECOND PART. THE HISTORY OF RIPON, Part the Third, containing a descriptive account of FOUNTAINS' ABBEY, STUDLEY, HACKFALL, NEWBY, And other Places /* tht Neighbourhood. ««9eeaoeoeoo«ao«d09see«oee FOUNTAINS* ABBEY, JL HIS celebrated abbey was for monks of th& Cistercian order, and may be conjectured to have taken the iiame of Fountains* from Fontaines in Burgundy, the birth place of St. Bernard, abbot ofCtairvaux. tt owed its origin to the piety of some monks from the benedictine monastery of St. Mary in York. Before the circumstances at- tending its foundation are related, it may be requU site to prerhisfe a few remarks On the cisterciari order, and of St; Bernard, their saint arid patron* In the first place* the regular benedictine abbey of St. Mary itl York was founded by Alan earl of Richmond A. D. xo8B. Several churches in Rich- iTiondshire being of course attached to it by him lya THE HISTORY or his successors. In the beginning of the next century rose the distinguished race of cistercian monks ; a reformed part of the benedictines. jt* D. 1098. Robert, abbot of Molesme in Burgundy, withdrew to Citeaux or Cisteaux (Cis- tertium) a desert place in the diocese of Challons, five leagues from the city of Dijon in that province, and founded there the first abbey of cistercian monks. # St. Bernard was born (says Du Pin cent xii. ch. vii.) in A. D 1091, at Fontaines* a town of Burgundy, of which his father Tescelin was lord. Patria Burgundus, ortu nobilis, in Fontanenst castro, juxta Divioncm natus anno 1091. \wA.D* II 13 * It is observable, that all the monasteries of the cu- tercians were in the same manner founded in desert and solitary places. Of which the five or six cistercian abbiej in Yorkshire, Rivaux, Fountains', Byland* Kirkstal, Roche abbey, and Jervaux, afford very beautiful and striking examples. Another peculiar distinction highly to the credit of this order, is, that they were more anxious to promote the elegant construction of their fabrics, than the increase of their revenues. And this also is strikingly exemplified in this county. The revenues of Fountains were indeed ample ; but those attached to the beautiful structures of Rivaux or Kirk- §tal, or to any other of the abbies above mentioned, amounted not at the dissolution to more than three hum* dred pounds per annum. OF RIPON. I73 1 1 13 he, with thirty of his companions, took the monastic habit in the abbey of Citeaux ; Stephen Harding, an englishman, being at that time the abbot. Two years after this event, he was sent to found, or to regulate an abbey of cistercians (lately established) at Clairvaux in the diocese of Langres in Champagne, on the river Aube near its source; where he fixed, and became as it were the head of the cistercians, called from him also Bernardines; left at his decease seven hundred monks in his abbey of Clairvaux; and saw one hundred and sixty monasteries planted un^er his auspices, in different parts of Europe. OiMfte superior influence which he possessed over kings, popes, and councils, see Mosheim cent xii. civ. ii. § xvi. In A. D. 1131 Walter d'Espec, a baron of ver? high rank and ample possessions introduced the cistercians into the north of England, by founding the abbey of Rivaux near Helmsley, which he peo- pled with monks from Clairvaux. The next year A. D. 1 1 32, ten or twelve monks separated from St Mary's at York, embraced the rule of cister- cians and established themselves at Fountains'. The monks coming off from an old benedictinc abbey, might be desirous to shew, by assuming the 0^2 name fj4 THE HISTORY name of Fontanensis, dc Fontibus, Fountains' or Fountaines, that their monastery was fully Cister- cian or bernardine ; and that they were under Saint Bernard's guidance, a circumstance thatjwould give them high repute in that age. At the same time it should be mentioned, that whilst these pages were preparing for the press, the history of Craven has been published ; in which the learned author has obliged the public with a derivation of the name of the abbey of Fountains*, that much deserves their attention. He acquaints us, in an explanation of Spencer's celebrated distich (Fairy Queen, B. iv. c. xi. st. 37) on six rivers of the north. *' Still Are, swift Wharf, with Oze the most of might, " High Swale, unquiet Nydd, and troublous Skell, " That the derivation of the Are and Wharf are fixed by Camden, — the Are, — like the french Saoneox Arar (described by Caesar to flow incredibili lenitate) being from the Celtic, Ara, mild or tran- quil ; and the Wharf, Sax. Guerf, from the british, Guer, swift or rapid; that Ure and Ouse are the same word, signifying water; that Skell is simply a fountain ; that Swale is derived from the Anglo- Saxon Swalan, torrerc, a flame, from its rapidity, thus OF RIPON. *75 thus the latin torrens ; and that Nidd, originally Nidur, hence Nidderdale, is from the danish Nid- dur, Susurrus, a murmuring stream. History of Craving page 16. So again, page 178, mentioning Skeilands he observes, that like many places in Craven* -as Skeldhow, Thruskell, &c. it is named from the saxon, Skel, a fountain. He has afterwards, page 189, this passage. 11 The word Fountains has never been account- " ed for. No remarkable springs break out upon " the spot, which can have given origin to the " appellation. But the first name assigned to this u house was the abbey of Skeldale; and the mean- " ing of Skell not being then entirely obsolete, " the monks, who always wrote in latin, translated " it de Fontibus; afterwards the original name " was forgotten, and the wordFontes was re-trans*- u lated, for popular use, Fountains." Such is the ingenious conjecture of the author of the history of Craven ; which is here submitted with the preceding one to the judgment aad con- sideration of the reader. Note, Camden, speaking of the castle of Hil- derskill near Sfceiiff-Hutton, north-riding Com: Ebor: writes it Hinderskell j obseives that it was Q_3 built 1^6 THI HISTORY built by the barons de Greystock, and adds M •Ills a fontium elullientium multitudint , Hundredsk*ll> dictum. Cam. Brit* Edit. Lat. 1607, page 589. 11 Hinderskill castle, built by the barons " Greystoke, and called by some, from the number €i of springs, Hundred-Skell. " Gougk's BritennU vtl. 3. page 20. »««U**ftRW««A**=-- The ruins of this once famed monastery cannot fail to attract the attention of every one who has an opportunity of visiting them, and even strike the mind with icveiential awe. They are, perhaps, more perfect and retain more evident marks of the original structure than those of any other such edifice in England. Some idea of the former splendour and magnificence of Fountains' abbey, may be formed from the account which we will now give. The monks of the cistercian abbey at Rievaux were so famed for the sanctity of their lives, and their strict observance of the cistercian discipline, that Richard the prior, the sub-prior, and other re- ligious of the abbey of St. Mary at York, were resolutely determined to leave their monastery and OF RIFON, I77 and adopt that order: But this was opposed by Galfrid their abbot, who held it a reflection on his government. They therefore preferred a complaint against him to Thurstan, archbishop of York, re- questing him to visit their monastery, and assist them in their separation. A day was appointed for the purpose, (October 6, 1132) when the abbot and a vast concourse of monks assembled from dif- ferent parts of the country, and opposed the entranct of the archbishop and his attendants, in conse- quence of which, he interdicted both the church and the monks. After which Richard the prior, the sub prior, and eleven monks, withdrew themselves to the archbishop's house, where they remained some time; here they were joined by Robert, a monk from Whitby abbey. The archbishop being at Ripon the succeeding Christmas, assigned to them certain lands about three miles west of that place, in the patrimony of St. Peter, whereon to erect a cistercian mo- nastery. The place was called Skell-dale, from the river which runs through it, and is represented to have been at that time, more suited to the re- treat of wild beasts, than the reception of man; no marks of cultivation were to be found near it, and its surface was wholly covered with stone and wood. "A I78 THE HISTORY " A barren and detested vale it was. " The trees, the summer, yet forlorn and lean, " O'ercome with moss, and baleful misselto. " To this gift he afterwards added the village of Sutton. Richard, the prior of St. Mary's, was elected their abbot; with him they retired to this desert in the depth of winter, without any previ- ously formed shelter or provision, relying on the watchful attention of providence, and the bentfi- cence of those piously disposed. They took up their abode under the shade of a large elm tree, « ■ Whose boughs were moss/d with age, " And high top bald with dry antiquity ; " that stood in the midst of the vale ; the branches of which being thatched with straw, afforded them some shelter , under it they ate, slept, and prayed; the archbishop occasionally furnished them with bread, and the adjacent stream with drink. During the day, some endeavoured to clear an J cultivate a small piece of giound for a garden, whilst others were employed in forming, with wattles, a little oratory, and in erecting cells and offices. It is supposed, Of RIPOH. j>jg supposed, that they soon changed their elm, for a shelter of seven yew trees growing on the south side of the abbey, all yet (1806) standing, except the largest, which was blown down some years ago. They are of immense bulk, the trunk of one of them being, at three feet from the ground, twenty-six feet and six inches in circumference, and are so near each other as to form an excellent cover nearly equal to that of a thatched roof. " Un- H der these trees," says Doctor Burton* " we are " told by tradition, the monks resided 'till they " built their monastery which seems to me to be * 4 probable, if we consider how little a yew tree 44 increases in a year, and to what an amazing •■ bulk these arc grown. And as the hill side was 44 covered with wood, which is now almost cut " down, except these trees, it seems as if they 44 were left standing, to perpetuate the memory of 44 the monks habitation there, during the first 44 winter of their residence. " The winter being ended, they dispatched a messenger to St. Bernard at Clairvaux, with letters testifying their determination to pursue the rigid order followed by cistercian monks \ to enable them to • Monai. Ebor. p. 141. l8o THE HISTORY to effect their purpose, St. Bernard sent back with their messenger, Geoffry, a monk of his monas- tery, who instructed them in the cistercian disci- pline. About this time their number was increased by the addition of ten priests and laymen, which added so much to the difficulty of their subsistence; that we are told,* they were obliged to eat the leaves of trees and such wild herbs as the desert afforded, boiled up with a little salt. In their greatest distress, a cart load of bread was sent them by Eustace Fitz-John, owner of Knaresborough castle. For the two succeeding years they laboured under very great hardships, when Hugh, dean of York, in a severe illness or- dered himself and his possessions to be carried to the monastery of Fountains'. This donation was quickly followed by others; Serlo and Tosti, two canons of York, gave up themselves and their wealth to it. Soon after which, its possessions were much increased by the donation of Serlo de Pembroke, who gave the village ofCayton; and the benefactions of Robert de Sartis, a knight, and Rajalinda his wife, who gave the town of Harles- hows and its adjacent fields, with the forest of Warkesale j * V.ctisls. Ebor.— — Gro. Antiq. of RiroN. iSr Warkesale; and to these was added the grange of Aldeburgh with its appurtenances. William archbishop of York being deposed about the year 1 140, the soldiers who favoured him* having endeavoured without success to find Henry Murdock, the abbot, [whom they considered as principally accessory to that event,] in revenge set lire to the monastery, which, with half of the ora* tory was consumed. The monastery was refounded about the year 1 143, and the foundations of the church were laid, and some pillars raised by the abbot John de Ebon 1204. John de Pherd, their next abbot, car- ried on the work with great expedition, which was finished by John de Cancia, who instituted nine altars therein, added the painted pavement, the new cloisters, the infirmary, and a house for the enter- tainment of the poor, and died in the thirty-first year of Henry the third, A. D. 1245. During the twelfth and thirteenth centuries the characters of the cistercian monks were com- pounded of real Christianity, of superstition, and fanaticism. They were bred in the school of St. Bernard, and until they were corrupted by wealth and indolence, certainly retained much of that evangelical spirit which their master had imbibed from 182 THE HIlTOJtY from St. Augustine. — of their superstition it will be needless to speak, — of their fanaticism there can be no doubt. See Mon: Ang : vol. i 9 p. 750 0*^795. A. D, 1204.. John de Romaine arbhbishop of York, certified to the visitors of the cistercian or- der sent from Clairvaux, the extreme poverty of these monks ; whether this arose from the expences of their building, or from other extravagances \% not sufficiently clear; probably it was owing to both circumstances* They suffered much by the depredations oi the scots, whoNat that time pervading the north of Eng- land, destroyed the produce of their lands, and burnt many of their houses. This occasioned king Edward the Secbhrt, to remit them their taxes, and in the thirteenth year of his reign he granted them ft free exemption. By an inquisition taken A. D. 1 363, it was found, that divers of their granges were so ruinous that they could not be repaired. This was not of long continuance. The monks of Fountains Were in such repute for their sanctity as to claim the attention of the first men in the realm, and many of the great northern barons, with immense donations, purchased here a sepulture* Amongst these was the most ancient ahd noble family of Percy. Two of the most illustrious of whom* OF RIPON. 183 whom, although the monasteries of Whitby, Sal- lay,* and Handal, had been founded by their family, were here interred. Lord Richard de Percy, one of those barons who were chiefly accessory to the obtaining of the great charter from king John, and who was appointed one of the twenty guardians to see to the due observance of it, is expressly said to have been buried in the wall of Fountains' abbey. § And lord Richard's great nephew, lord Henry de Pcrcy> who held a principal command under Ed- ward the first in his wars in Scotland, and was made governor of Gal way and Aire in 1296, and invested by that king with the earldom of Carrick* forfeited by Robert Bruce, was brought into York- shire for sepulture and buried at Fountains' abbey before the high altar, A. D* 1 3 15. This last men- tioned nobleman, lord Henry de Percy, had great and numerous grants assigned to him in North- umberland, which brought the Percies connected w4th that county, of which his great grandson was first earl. " The lake of Malhamwaler was given byWiU Ham de Percy, (the founder of the abbey of Saliay); r about * Saliay abbey inCiaven, belonging to the Right Hcwiourabl e Lord Gi^mham. § G:ose*5 Aptiq. T : t, Fountains abb:y* 1?4 THE HISTORY about the beginning of the reign of Stephen, and though at the distance of near thirty miles, the in- exhaustable store of excellent trout and perch with which this lake has always abounded, must, at one season of the year, have converted the fasts of that house into the most delicious of all repasts. " " The original grant of this lake is to be found in DodsSvortlvs MSS. and a confirmation of it in the Townley MSS. Anno 1 175-t " The Percies were considered as hereditary be- nefactors and patrons of this foundation, and were- applied to when an emergency made it necessary, as appears by the following letter, written in the reign of Henry the eighth, on a complaint from the monks against their abbot. It was written by Henry Percy, sixth earl of Northumberland, to Thomas Arundel Esq ; one of the gentlemen of the privy chamber to the lord legate Wolsey. y order of king Henry the eighth; when the following ir — *r— ■ ■ ■■ # This blank is in the original. f Thus far is in the hand writing of the earl's secre- tary ; it is subscribed &c. by himself. OF RIFON. 187 following letter was transmitted by Layton, one of the visitors. To obtain the visitation, the monks of this abbey paid a fine of one hundred marks. 4< Please your worship to understand that the abbot of Fountayns hath so greatly dilapidate his house, wasted ye woods, notoriously keeping six whores, and six days before our coming he com- mitted theft and sacrilege confessing the same; for at midnight he caused his chapleyn to stele rhe keys of the sexton and took out a jewel, a cross of gold with stones, one Warren a goldsmyth of the chepe was with him in his chambre at the hour, and there they stole out a great emerode with a rubye, the sayde Warren made the abbot believe the rubye was a garnet, and so for that he paid nothing, for the emerode but ^20. He sold him also plate without weight or ounces, yours &c. Subscribed R. Layto^. From Richmont (in Com. cbor.) the 20th. Jan. This abbot's name was Thirskc ; he was accu- sed of theft and sacrilege, and of wasting the wood, R 3 cattle, l88 THE HISTORY cattle, and profits belonging to the house. He was expelled, and afterwards hanged at Tyburn. He was succeeded by Marmaduke Bradley, who had been suffragan bishop of Hull, and chaplain to the king. He surrendered the whole profits of the monastery, November the 26th. 1540. The building when complete, is said to have covered ten acres of ground. GRANTS and CONFIRMATIONS of PRI- VILEGES to the ABBEY of FOUNTAINS* The monks of this abbey enjoyed the sam# privileges with, others of the cistercian order in being exempt from payment of tythes of all such ground as they kept in their own hands, or occu- pied at their own expence, which was very exten- sive ; we are told by Doctor Whitaker that " the possessions of this wealthy house stretched from the foot of Pcnnigent to the boundaries of Saint Wilfrid ofRipon, without interruption. Fountains' fell still retains the name of its ancient possessors; all the high pastures from thence to Kilnsey were ranged _. ~ j , .... « ■ — ■ — ■ —? * Monas: Ebor ; 147. OF RIPON. 189 ranged by their flocks and herds: Kilnsey and Conistone were their property, the commons of the latter joined uponNetherdale, and all this val- ley (tota Netherdale are the sweeping words of Mowbray's charter) had been early bestowed upon them down to Brimham, which touched up- on the immediate demesnes of the house. The lands in Craven contained in a ring fence, upon a very moderate computation, one hundred square miles, or sixty four thousand acres. Kilnsey was the place to which the immense flocks of the abbey were driven from the surrounding hills for their annual sheep-shearing, a scene of primitive festivity. From the name of the chapel- house there, it seems probable that the monks either had a small cell, or a grange with a chapel annexed, (in a picturesque and interesting situation) where an excellent house was built by the late John Ten- nant Esq ; whose ancestor, Jeffrey Tennant of Bordeley, purchased the estate from the Gr»sham family, the grantees of Fountains 1 abbey, in the fourteenth of Elizabeth. " u At Kilnsey, 'as the most accessible part of their domains, courts were kept for all the Craven manors belonging to Fountains' abbey, (except Litton and Longstrother, which last weic holden at Litton) The 1$0 THE HISTORY The walls of their court house were remaining at Kilnsey, in the forty- first of Elizabeth, when it was remembered that a pasture had been assigned for the horses of all the Jurors and Homagers in summer, and hay in winter, at the expence of the house. w See Hist : of Craven p. 385-6. Pope Innocent the fourth, (who was elected A. D. 1241) on the 6th. kal, Feb. (27th. January} in the first year of his pontificate, confirmed to this abbot and convent, the former exemption from payment of tythes; also further granted to them the exemption from paying tythes of wool, lamb, and milk, in whatsoever parish their sheep might be fed. And Pope Alex, the fourth (elected A. D. 1254) up- on the demise of Innocent IV, by his bull, dated pridie Id. Aug. (12 August) in the fourth year of his pontificate ; at the request of cardinal J. Titul. St. Lawrence, in Lucina, granted that such lands, whether cultivated or uncultivated, as had not paid tythes, although afterwards they should be let to others to cultivate, should yet be exempt from payment of tythes. Pope Boniface the ninth, in the eighth year of his pontificate, exempted those religious of the cisteician order from payment of tythes, for such lands OF RIPON. ig r lands belonging to them, as were let to others. This exemption, in the twelfth year of his pontifi- cate he further confirmed, but king Henry IV. would not suffer them to enjoy it, as appears by his order dated 24th. May, in the first year of his reign, upon a complaint of the prebends &c. of St. Wil- frid's church at Ripon. King Henry I. granted that the monks of Foun- tains, their horses, men, and effect should be ex- empt from payment of tolls, for passage and pon- tage, and be duty free wheresoever they w T ent by land or by water, and especially to and from Boroughbridge. King Stephen confirmed all the grants made to them by Thurstan, archbishop of York, Henry his successor, Alan, earl of Britain, and others, and exempted their lands from all service. Henry II. by his letters patent, confirmed their possessions to them, with sac, soc, team, and infangtheof ; and exempted them from themanelith, and danegeld, and of assize, and of aid of county or hundred. Richard I. confirmed his father's (king Henry II.) grants, together with those of their possessions therein specified, by letters patent, dated the 1 6th «f September, in the first year of his reign, A* D. uSo ? i()1 THK HISTORY 1 189, and these were renewed again on the ninth of November, in the tenth year of his reign. Henry III. also confirmed the same at York, on the 23d* of February* King Edward I. on the eighteenth of September, in the eighth year of his reign, A. D. 1280, grant- ed to them free warren in their demesnes in Mor- kar, Somewith, Aldeburgh,Sleningford, and Sutton, provided those lands were not in the king's forests. And by other letters patent, dated sixteenth Octo- ber, in the twentieth year of his reign, he confirm- ed to them free warren in their demesnes in Bal- dersby, Marton-super-Moram,Thorpe-sub-Bosco, Kilnsey in Craven, Bordeley in Craven, and Bradeley. King Richard the II. by letters patent, dated ninth of November, in the tenth year of his reign, jf. D 1387 confirmed to them all their possessions as specified in the charter, granting unto them sac, soc, toll, team, and infangenetheof, with the courts of all their tenants, and the cognizance of all trans- gressions on their lands, with the assize of bread and ale; and the nomination or removal of their own bailiffs and servants, with all fines and for- feitures within the said premises; likewise the ,same liberties which the church of St. Peter's at York, Of RIPON. I93 York, enjoyed. He also exempted them from as- size of the county, riding-, and wapentake, from danegeld, aids, scutage, pontage, pedage, carriage, tolls for repairing castles, clearing fosses, stallage, and taillage; forbidding every man from arresting any person within their premises, without the ab- bot and convent's licence. King Henry VI. by the consent of the lords spiritual and temporal in parliament, confirmed the above said privileges in the first year of his reign, A. D. 1422. Thurstan archbishop of York, the founder* who sat from A. D. 11 14, to fiiteenth January A D. 1 143, gave to them part of his wood de Her- leso, with the land near the wood, which Wallef, son of Archil, the archbishop's man gave to them. Henry Murdoc, his immediate successor, (who $at ixomA.D. 1 147 to 1153) confirmed what Thur- stan and others had given, viz. the church of Foun- tains' Sutton-grange, Herleso, the grange of Warth- sal, with other lands* Roger of Bishop-bridge* archbishop of York, (who sat from A. D, 1154 to A D. 1181) confir- med the same, as did Robert dean, and the chapter of York. From T-94 THE HISTORY From an official copy it appears that William Knight, archdeacon of Richmond, and others, by virtue of a commission, under the great seal of Henry the eighth, estimated the abbey of Fountains, its site, with the gardens, orchards, park, and in- cisures, together with the mill, all in their own occupation, to be of the yearly value of twenty-sis pounds thirteen shillings and fourpence. Its revenues at the dissolution, amounted /. s. d. According to Speed to ♦ *... 1073 o 7 ■ ■ Dugdale 998 6 8 ^ Burton ....♦ .* 1I25 18 if There were lands in two hundred and forty lordships belonging to it. blMENSlO OF RIPON, 195 DIMENSIONS &c. OF THE RUIN. The GREAT TOWER Is one hundred and sixty-six feet, six inches high, and twenty-four feet square. It is placed at the north end of the transept, and is probably, from the appearance of the windows, and angular ornamen- tal buttresses, of which there are none attached to the church, of a somewhat later 1478 35 JOHN DARNETON .'. 1494 36 MARMADUKE HUBY 1526 37 WILLIAM THIRSKE, B D. Oxon. 1537 38 MARMADUKE BRODELAY, or BRADLEY, Suffragan bishop of Hull. STORES 202 THE HISTORY STORES FOUND AT THE DISSOLUTION OF THE ABBEY. * /. /. d. Plate in the church 519 15 5 Ditto — custody of my Lord Abbot 147 13 7I Ditto — Buttery - 30 8 7 Ditto — Frater --«- 3 3 4 Ditto at Brimham 7 410 £ 708 5 i Horned cattle - 2356 Sheep- 1326 Horses 86 Swine — — 79 CORN IN THE DOMAINS. Wheat 117 quarters Rye - 12 ditto Oats 134 ditto Hay 392 loads. CORN IN THE GRANARIES. Wheat - — 18 quarters Rye 18 ditto Barley Malt 90 ditto Oats 2 ditto # Monas; Ebor: OF RIPOKF. 203 The church, bells, site of the abbey, and most part of its estates, were granted by letters patent, under the great seal of Henry the eighth, dated first October A. R. 32. to Sir Richard Gresham, knight, and his heirs for ever, subject to certain reserved rents payable to the crown. f From the Compotus of Sir Richard Gresham for the thirty-third year of Henry the eighth it ap- pears that the annual income of the estates of this abbey, had then been advanced very little above the former estimate ; either because cheap purchases afforded at that time no excuse for racking of rents, or that in the general discontent which prevailed in the north, on account of the dissolution ©f reli- gious houses, such a measure would have been impolitic and dangerous Hist: of Craven, p. 389. The estates and abbey were sold by Sir Richard Gresham to Sir Stephen Proctor, whose daughter and heiress brought them to John Messenger Esq; of one of whose descendants, the abbey was pur« chased by the late William Aislabie Esq; who annexed it to his pleasure grounds. FOUNTAINS' *0+ THI HISTORY FOUNTAINS' HALL, STANDS about two hundred yards west of the abbey, and was built otit of its ruins by Sir Stephen Proctor, Over the chief entrance is this inscrip- tion cut in stone. S. P. I. RIEN TROVANT GAINER AY TOVT. I. M. P. A stone, placed in onje of the pillars of the court- gate is also inscribed, BENEDICITE FONTES DOMINO 1677. The building does not boast of any thing par- ticular, or worthy observation, except the chapel, in which is a curiously ornamented chimney-piece, representing the judgment of Solomon: The win- dows are beautifully ornamented with stained glass, containing a variety of armorial bearings. FIRST OP RITQN. FIRST WINDOW. 205 ARMS OP Clifford and St. John Clifford and Flint Clifford and Hughes Aske and Clifford Bromeflet and Alton Bromeflet and Viponte Lord Clifford Derbee and Oxenford Urie and Atton Clifford and Calthrope Wharton and Clifford Chalmslay and Clifford Atton and Fitz-John Clifford and Bohunn Boynton and Clifford Derby and Spencer Fitz-Arden and Du Cornwall, CIRCULAR WINDOW. Argent a cross or a chief charged with three bezants, — Gules three cinquefoils. THIRD WINDOW. An otter with a fish in its mouth. Proctor and Greene Langdale and Miwray Greene and Wake Greene and Pollington Greene and Foliad Proctor and Finche Proctor and Winterborrt Miwray and - ■ » Miwray and Kemp Proctor and Lamberde Miwray and Flemy nge Clapham and Proctor Thirkeid and Huddle- ston Middletort 5o5 TBI HISTORY MidcHeton and Proctor Thirkeld and Aston Pickering and Lowther Greene and Broughton Miwray and Crimpcs Miwray and Nowel Bancke and Proctor Flemynge and Thirkeld Pickering and Lasscells Miwray and Durell Pioctor and Ellis Thirkeld and Engilby Dudley and Thirkeld Huddleston andCleburn Bedenham and Miwray Ratcliffe andHuddleston Thirkeld and Lumley Miwray and — Proctor and Hammerton Therognel and Miwray Huddleston and Curwen Huddleston & Fenwick, p», . STUDLEY. STUDLEY.* JL HIS enchanting spot was formerly the pro- perty of Sir John Mallorie, knight, who died about the middle of the sixteenth century, and lies buried within the minster at Ripon. It afterwards came into t^e possession of the family of the Aislabies, by a marriage with one of the daughters of Sir John Mallorie, and is now the property of Mrs. Allanson, daughter of the late William Aislabie Esq. Its distance from Ripon is about two miles, which, from the goodness of the road and the beauty of the country, is a most agreeable drive. t The * Studley was possessed, prior to its coming to the Mallories, by that branch of the ancient family of the Tempests, which afterwards settled at Stella, on the southern bank of the river Tyne, in the parish of Ryton and county of Durham* 208 THE HISTORY The grounds, which naturally swell with much elegance, have been laid out with refined taste, the artificial embellishments have been so judiciously and happily blended with the simplicity of nature y that the shade which discriminates between them, is, with difficulty, perceptible* The native genius of the place has been consulted on every occasion with a minuteness which nothing but a reverence for its dictates could inspire; and this attention alone, has, in the estimation of some, not only ren- dered these gardens superior to any in the northern part of this kingdom, but in some measure to vie with €l The sweets of Hagley, and the pride of Stowe." On entering the park, through the grand gate- way, the first idea which is excited is highly pleasureable ; and such, perhaps as the poet Thomson felt when, in the gardens at Richmond* he rapturously exclaimed^ Welcome ! ye shades, ye bowery thickets hail, Ye lofty pines, ye venerable oaks ! Ye ashes wild, resounding o'er the steep ! Delicious is your shelter to the soul. The vista, which opens, is about three quarters of a mile in length, shaded on each side with beeches OF RIPON. 209 beeches of stately growth. The view is terminated by an obelisk, from whence the town and minster of Ripon present themselves. Various objects in the gardens are also seea from hence, in different directions. Amongst these the White-Hall, at a considerable distance, and the Octagon-Tower are not the least conspicuous. On the left is a most delicious and wide spreading lawn, that by a gra- dual and equal declination, stretches to The HOUSE, Sheltered by luxuriant timber-trees, which con- stitute one of the finest back grounds that imagi- nation can con ceive. This edifice, though it may not be thought to correspond entirely either in grandeur or dimensions, with the objects around it, has nevertheless been remarked for the commo- dious disposition and excellent finishing of the apartments it contains, which are ornamented with a numerous selection of pictures by the most dis^ tinguished masters. The HALL Is forty eight feet by twenty seven. In this room among many others are the following portraits, T 2 viz* $10 THE HISTORY viz* John Aislabie Esq; and his two wives. A Groupe, William Aislabie Esq; and his family? Mr. and Mrs. Wallers Rubens, by himself: and Lord Exeter. The LIBRARY Is thirty one feet by twenty one, and contains a large and well chosen collection of books in rich and elegant bindings, amor.gtt the book cases, in appropriate disposition, are busts of the most eminent greek and latin authors. The DRAWING ROOM Is twenty five feet by twenty four, hung with blue damask with a gilt bonier, Here is a good portrait of Mrs. Aislabie, with eight other paintings. PARLOUR twenty feet by sixteen, In this room are several valuable portraits, amongst which are lord Bacon, lady "Jane Grey (line) Mrs. Aislabie, Mis Lawrence &c besides some exquisitely finished drawings. In The BILLIARD ROOM are also a Groupe, Sir John Mallorie and family: the Czar Peter of Russia: Charles XII. of Sweden: and six, views of Raneleigh and Vauxhall. TAPESTRY OF RIFON. 211 TAPESTRY ROOM, Sixteen feet by thirteen. This little room excites much admiration. The tapestry is so excellent that the figures and subjects it exhibits, almost equal the the f nest efforts of the pencil in softness and relief. Passing from hence by the great stair case, the organ-room and lodging-rooms may be seen. The ALCOVE LODGING ROOM Is furnished with a number of drawings taken from different points and the most interesting situations in the gardens of Sludley and Hackfall. Adjoining the house is The MENAGERIE, In a neat garden, planted with a choice collection of flowers^and odoriferous shrubs ; it has a handsome green-house, and three aviaries, in which turtle- doves, canaries, and other birds are kept. There is also a small, but elegant building, which has been sometimes used as a breakfast-room. The prospects from the house are varied, and highly gratifying. The gently rising and declining irregularities of hill and dale, in the park, are charmingly enlivened by herds of deer. Btyorrl t 3 -the 212 THE HISTORY the woods and plantations, which lie thus beauti- fully disposed and expanded, Ripon minster with part of the town may be seen in the distance ; and at another point, Mackershaw-wood with the lodge &c. The Belvedere, a building so called in the park, also forms a conspicuous object. These all united form a picture, peculiarly attracting and I impressive. At a short distance towards the south-west lie The PLEASURE GARDENS. In front is a large lake, supplied from the canal above by a cascade, on each side of which is a small pavilion. This has a bad effect and gives a mo- mentary shock by its formality, your pleasure is heightened however, on a little farther progress. Passing through the gates, several fine trees meet the eye, crowned with the profusest charms of luxuriant nature, giving a majestic grandeur to the entrance. " Are not these wcods •* More free from peril, than the envious court? " Here we feel but the penalty of Adam, •• The season's difference : •« — ~_» exempt fiom public haunt t( Find ton guts in trees, bucks in the running brooks M Sermons in scones, and good in every thing. M Leaving OF RIPON. 2 I J Leaving a rising ground, which opens with very pleasing scenery to the right; the road winds up a gradual ascent to an enclosed COLD BATH, which is constantly supplied by a spring of the purest water; advancing a few yards further, near the figure of a dying Gladiator, the prospect is really charming; the Tower, Temple of Piety, and Rotunda, are all happily dispersed in the wood, which here forms an amphitheatre. Proceeding en, a fine rustic bridge opens to the view, with the river rushing through it, and the back ground so darkened by trees, as to give the idea of a cascade foaming through a cavern. Near this is the statue of Hercules destroying Anteus. From the rustic bridge, venerably covered with ivy " O'er canopy'd with luscious woodbine, " With sweet musk roses, and the eglantine, * the view opens with a beautiful assemblage of new objects, most elegantly diversified, the statues, cold bath, rotunda, and banqueting-house appear among the trees, and various shrubs arc scattered on the rising banks. The hanging wood that overshadows the canal is beautiful. At 214 THE HiSTORY At a few paces distant stands a large yew tree, said to have been growing here, when the gardens were first laid out. u This stately yew, which has for ages stood, " The gloomy monarch of its native wood; " Its aged branches still their sable shew, f « And frown upon the verdant scenes below. ? From a little grotto adjoining, a fine and exten- sive sheet of water is seen, which winds at the foot of Tent-hill, and is encircled by a noble am- phitheatre of hanging wood, of large growth, u attired with verdure, various as the evening sky, t€ ting'd with the setting sun, " whilst the river meanders at your feet, and steals silently into the canal below. Turning through a shady walk, to the left, you enter The LAWN, which is laid out with exquisite taste, and where the water divides itself into several beautiful forms, embellished at different points by the statues of Eacchus, Neptune, Galen, a dying Gladiator, and Roman Wrestlers. Passing along a gravel walk, by the side of a bank decorated with trees and flowering shrubs, you come to Thi The TEMPLE OF PIETY. Thi front of this building is a portico, supported by six tuscan pillars. Within are bronze busts of Titus Vespasian and Nero, and a fine bass-relief of the Grecian daughter. From this place the views around are highly picturesque and varied ; the opposite hill is beautifully screened with trees, through which the banqueting-housa, with its sur- rounding verdant scerery is iesn with good effect. A little further on, the walk rises hastily, and is embowered with trees, several of them growing on the bare rocks. At the top is a subterraneous cavern leading to The OCTAGON TOWER, situated on a charming eminence, commanding a variety'of extensive and enchanting views. From the entrance are seen a Chinese-temple and other objects in the park ; on the rightMackershaw-lodge, and from the windows a noble bank, finely diver- sified with wood — the house and circumjacent grqimds, with an infinity of groupes of planting, and whatever could enrich this most correct and finished picture. Adjoining is a cave with stoves for dressing victuals. Passing along to the right, at aid THE HISTORY at every step opening on new objects, through artless vistas, you come to The ROTUNDA; or, TEMPLE OF FAME. This building is finely placed amidst, and is almost covered with hanging wood. Here the banqueting-house, and the other beauties of the place, crowned with trees, are seen in an excellent point of view. At the end of this walk How-hill is discovered in front, with its lofty brow thickly clothed with a variety of wood. Continuing the same walk, you reach a seat, where the lake below is discovered winding through the valley, with the beautiful wooded cone, called Tent-hill, jut- ting itself into its bosom. It is at the base of this hill (within a dark arch) that the water of the lake is conducted into the canal below. The walk continues, on the edge of the hill, to A GOTHIC SEAT, from which the venerable ruins of Fountains' abbey * appear directly in front, and form one of the finest views imagination can conceive. A mo- dest river gently glides along its side, tufted with oak * For the history and an ichnographical description of this building, see Fountains' abbey, page 171. jor riton. 217 oak and evergreen ; on the right, rocks, woods, and hills, romantically shew themselves in natural wildness ; while in front a fine lawn extends itself .to where the abbey rears its awful head, in all th« pride and dignity of age. " These are the haunts of meditation, these w The scenes where ancient bards th* inspiring breath €f Ecstatic felt; and from this world retir'd, " Convers'd with angels, and immortal forms, u On gracious errands bent ■ " Descending the hill, you proceed along the margin of the water, the abbey still appearing with additional beauty as you approach it, 'till coming to the mouldering arches of a bridge, which you cross, you find yourself at the entrance of this most beautiful ruin. It is scarcely possible to con- ceive that tottering walls should appear so lovely : It must fascinate the enthusiastic. Built in the most beautiful style of gothic or saracenic architecture; the tower and all the walls are still lemaining, the roof alone being gone to ruin. Entering the door, instead of a chancel, you find yourself in a grove ; nature having sportively scattered through it an enchanting assemblage of shrubbery and trees. The ai8 THE HISTORY The sod, too, through which they shoot is exqui- sitely green. No depredation has been wantonly committed on it; time and age alone, have brought it to its present state, it has fallen in peace, and without a harsh convuhion. Leaving this charm- ing spot, you return by a porter's lodge, which, at a distance, very much resembles a ruined chapel, and re-entering the gardens, turn through an ele- gantly winding walk, leaving Tent-hill, on the right ; you soon reach a seat which yields a number of picturesque and novel scenes; and thence to an elegant building called The BANQUETING HOUSE, ornamented and furnished in a superb style. Here is a grand dining-room, having a recess at each end. In one of th:se stands a bronze cast of the Venus de Medicis, ** The very life seems warm upon her lip, " The fixture of her eye has motion in it. " Over a chimney-piece of most exquisite marble, is a picture of the governor of Surat, taking the diversion of hawking ; here is also an elegant room adjoining, in which is a sopha-bed. Here you may court " That Ot RIPON. 21$ 14 That silent power whose welcome sway *• Charms every anxious thought away, " In whose divine oblivion drown'd " Sore pain and weary toil grow mild. " From one end of this edifice a stone urn is seen t through the verdant foliage of the trees on the op- posite hill. Towards the left you reach the verge of the gardens, where, from an elevated situation, a fine view is caught of the tower of the abbey, the building on the summit of How-hill, together with an extensive range of country, diversified with va- rious objects. A little further, you look down on a fine valley, the banks immediately below delight- fully screened with laureL From hence the statue of Pan, in the park, may be seen. Proceeding by the side of the lawn, the temple of piety, with its surrounding scenery, exhibits itself in full view. Leaving this delightful spot, you descend gradually to the first entrance. ■ Mean while the mum'nno; waters fall " Down the slope hills ; dispersed, or in a lake, *' That to the fringed bank, with myrtle crown'd ** Her crystal mirror holds, unite their streams. M The birds their choir apply ; airs vernal airs, *•' -Breathing the smell of field and gr vve, attune u si Their 24Q THE HISTORY " Their trembling leaves, while universal Pan, " Knit with the Graces and the Hours in dance, " Lead on th' eternal Spring The BELVEDERE Is a building erected upon Gillet-hill in the park, from whence is a delightful prosp-ct of the house, and the town of Ripon with its fine gothic minster, in the centre of a richly cultivated vale, where villages, houses, and other objects are profusely scattered. At a short distance from hence is The CHINESE TEMPLE. This building is situated on a romantic emi- nence, not far from the entrance into a part of the grounds called Mackershaw. The valley here is seen in one of its highest points of beauty. The river, winding through it, forms several beautiful falls, the Octagon-tower, and other objects appear with peculiar prominence and advantage amongst the surrounding scenery ; but the most striking views from hence are formed by the locks and woods on each side of the dell. Upon the whole, this walk, though seldom shewn to strangers, is equally beautiful and romantic, and may with the greatest OF *IPOH. fl2t greatest propriety, be included amongst the many justly admired and beautiful scenes in the park of Studley. << . These unfrequented woods " I better brook than flourishing peopled towns, " Here can I sit alone unseen of any, '* And listen to the nightingale's complaining notes." tC/^^r&^fa **&* *r~ V 2 ANALYSIS ANALYSIS OF ALDFIELD SPAW. OKELLDALE continues for several miles above Fountains' abbey without losing any of its romantic beauties ; the village of Aldfield is seated about a mile higher up, and deserves to be more known for the virtues of its medicinal waters. The springs are situated on the southern side #f the vale, which is richly clothed with wood; a fine trout stream runs between them, and a charming spring of fresh water issues w 7 ithin a few yards. Here the vale- tudinarian may enjoy the luxuriance of the valley sheltered from every ungenial breeze, and seek for a restoration of health in the very seat of Hygeia* ExERCISt OF HIFON. 223 Exercise has been uniformly recommended to those who visit watering places for the benefit of their health: and riding is found to be most salu- tary, as it requires but little exertion, and conse- quently produces very little fatigue. This neigh- bourhood affords every inducement to exercise, and the rides in the vicinity are so varied that new objects may be daily visited. It is not our intention to give more than a brief account of the result of this analysis; as the facts • hat occurred in the course of the investigation, can all be explained by the well known chemical prin- ciples, it is not necessary to elucidate the subject by any experiments particularly adapted to the purpose; and as many analyses of sulphureous waters have b^en already presented to the public, distin- guished by the skill and accuracy with which they have been conducted, However as the subject is of so much consequence to the physician, and so close- ly related to the general interests of humanity, our labour may not be entirely unacceptable, and we shall be happy if by our efforts we can call the at- on of the possessors to the improvement of this valuable gift of nature. 1 his spaw is visited in summer by great num- bers of country people, who never fail to receive u 3 relief 224 THfi HISTORY relief in ail cases where the use of sulphureeus waters has been found beneficial. As the saline contents are small, where an active purge is lequired, half an ounce of Sulphate of Magnesia should be taken in the first glassful of water. The springs do not differ in strength, and both throw up very large quantities of water. This is a great advantage to persons whose complaints render warm bathing necessary, as a great number of baths can be supplied with the water in a short time. The water is perfectly limpid, and sparkles when poured into a glass ; it has a saline taste and an offensive smell; by exposure to the air it loses this odour, becoming turbid and depositing a white powder, with which it encrusts leaves and pieces of stick, in its passage from the well. The un- pleasant smell which the water exhales, and the property it has of blackening silver or lead, shew that it contains sulphureted hydrogen Gas. Tut temperature is 54°. & fresh water spring •within a few yards 48 . The sulphureous springs are never frozen. Specific OJ RIPON. 225 SOLID CONTENTS in a WINE GALLON OF THE WATER. Grains. Carbonate of Lime 12,5 Carbonate of Magnesia 3,5 Sulphate of Magnesia . . 5 Muriate of Soda 208 Muriate of Magnesia 96 3 2 5 GASEOUS CONTENTS. Cubic Inches, Carbonic acid Gas 6 Azotic Gas *'.»... 4 Sulphurated Hydrogen Gas 2.1 3* Very pure Azotic Gas in a free state is emitted at intervals, it was collected at the rate of a gallon in fifty- six minutes, though several bubbles escaped. Dr. Oahnett, whose analysis of Harrogate water evinces so much skill, and such an extent of chemical k nowledge, has made Muriate <}f Lime one «f its component parts, Since f he publication of sj it Mr, 226 OF RIPON. Mr. Kirwan's essay on the analysis of mineral waters, it is known that Muriate of Lime cannot ^xist in a water that contains sulphate or carbonate of magnesia. The doctor's error was occasioned by the manner in which analyses were then con- ducted. This is mentioned to account for the quantity of Carbonate of Lime found in this water* which appears much greater in proportion to the saline contents than in Harrogate water, but if the thirteen grams of Miu late of Lime be placed to the quantify of Carbonate, the disproportion vanishes, and one hundred parts of Muriate of Lime are composed of forty-two acid, fifty lime, eight water ; one hundred parts of Carbonate of Lime, of fifty lime, fifty acid and water. BRIMH BRIMHAM CRAGS. JL H& scene which opens to the vieto on tr e approach to these rocks excites the greatest asto- nishment* We -imagine ourselves just entering the apparent ruins of a large city. The gloomy frag- file tits strike us with horror, and fancy might readily place before us the massy form and surly looks of its ancient gigantic inhabitants. This extraordinary work of nature covers the astonishing space of forty acres, and "presents us 3vith objects in all her rude and uncultivated gran- deur. From the towering summit of these rocks immense fragments appear to nave been precipitated and hurled to a considerable distance, other* hang by trifling points, and projecting considerably over the base, threaten to cai \\ the ttiemhting visitant* Two rocks, each above ten yards square have been completely disunited, leaving an area at Last four 228 THE HISTORY feet wide, they exhibit so exact a correspondence of parts as to convince the observer that they once formed a solid mass, and can only have been left in their present state by some violent and tremen- dous convulsion of nature* The ROCKING STONES constitute one of the most striking svibjects of this surprising scene, they are formed by a rock worn ky the attacks of wind and rain to an obtuse point at the centre, which rests on the plane surface of ano- ther; of these, the two largest are calculated to weigh above one hundred tons each, and can be put in motion with ease by the hand, time will pro- bably give to other detached masses, the same sur- prising power of rocking, as they are Composed of a very friable .kind of grit. The CANNON ROCKS. Perforations in these grim crags are very common, but the most remarkable are those dis- tinguished by the name of cannon rocks, one of them is a cylinder of about twelve inches in dia- meter, which runs through a large body of rock, and is easily accessible at one point, but the other extremity terminates on the side where the craggy ridge OP It IF ! j ridge rises to a terrific height. It has been con- jectured that the Druids made u?e of this to deliver their delusive oracles to the credulous Pagans, and certainly no place could be more suitable to the performance of their mysteries and deceptions ; and sounds issuing from the centre of the cliff might be so modulated as to occasion sensations of fear and amazement in the listening attendants. The forms of the detached rocks and the rude figures some of them exhibit are however to be attributed solely to the hand of nature. The supposed druid- ical circles exist only in imagination and there appear few grounds of belief that this scene of grandeur and sublimity has ever been dedicated to the celebration of religious rites. No description can do justice to a spectacle so awfully magnificent, nor can an idea of its unpa- ralled majestic grandeur be formed by those who- have not seen the place. In the year 1792, the Ri^ht Honourable Lord Grantley built a house, with suitable cutoffices, for the accommodation of company, prompted by a laudable curiosity to visit this chaotic wonder of nature. LORD LORD GRANTLEY's LAKE. .ETURNING fromBrimham-crags and pur- suing the road about a mile and a half, this lake lies on the left hand, in a long, and deep vale, in- closed with high ridges of iocky mountains ; woods rise on each side in irregular swells, until the rocky declivity of the mountains precludes all cultivation ; here wild plants find support and climb even to the summit of the craggy precipices. The dale expan ds a little towards the head of the lake, the rocks then become eminently conspicuous, and a cascade pours over the precipice ; the beauty of this scene is greatly augmented after falls of rain. A foot w^alk continues along the margin, but sometimes leading into the wood, shuts out the view 1 of the lake, when an opening again admits a full prospect of its beauties. HACKFALL, HACKFALL Nature here Wanton'd as in her prime, and play'd at will her virgin fancies. Wild above rule or art (and beauteous form'd) A happy rural seat of various vfew # Parabise Lost. .ACKFALL, the property of Mrs. Allanson, is seven miles distant from Ripon. Its beauties are admirably calculated to attract the attention of those who are delighted with the romantic scenery of rural landscape. Never was there seen a finer assemblage of wild and variegated nature. Here •"•" How long soe'er the wanderer roves, each step ** Shall wake fresh beauties ; each short point present fi A different picture, " The; 232 THE HISTO*r The entrance into the grounds is pleasant, though not grand ; near the first gate a small rill forms itself into a reservoir, from whence the wa- ter falls down a precipice, and is seen as you walk, gently gliding along, 'till checked by rocks and stones, which in several places obstruct its passage ; it forms a chain of beautiful falls half a mile in length. At a short distance, two springs issuing from the rock, fall gently down its side. Des:er.ding to a covered seat, you have one of the sweetest landscapes in nature, in front the water forms a double cascade, and rushing over rocks and beds of stone, joins the rill below. A little lower, another stream runs down the rock in a similar direction. Descending still fur- ther to another seat, you come suddenly in front of an artificial ruin, called MOWBRAY CASTLE. A winding walk leads to the bottom of the vale, through a woody dingle to FISHERS HALL, A small octagon room, built of petrifactions, * upon * These petrifactions are formed by several springs in the grouuds, and particularly by one called the alum spring. of RiroK. 133 upon a beautiful swelling hill near the river Ure, and surrounded with hanging wood ; by varying your station near it, you are amused with a char- ming variety of rural scenery. Here are two cas- cades divided by a grove of fine trees ; that on the left impetuously forces its way over a slaty rock, overhung with the spreading branches of the ad- joining wood, which rises in noble sweeps, dar- kened with the shade, but sweetly contrasted by the sparkling brightness of the water. The other foams in a continued declension from a great dis- tance, and is broken here and there with artless simplicity. It then descends through a fine wood that screens the rising hill, on the brow of which stands a building called Mowbray Point. From another part you observe the river which forms a noble bend at your feet; the stream is rapid, and rushes impetuously along its course, confined on each side by rocks elegantly clothed with trees, that rise progressively over each other, and form a grand and sublime scene. You next enter an ascending walk, where your attention is soon fixed upon a cascade, gushing in appearance from a cavern in the rock, sweetly overhung with thick wood, and falling from rock to 234 *HI HISTORY to rock until its stream is lost in the adjoining Coppice. At a short distance on the same walk, you reach A GROTTO, so situated as to face the last mentioned cascade, which falls from a height of forty feet. The wa- ter is clear and transparent, and from its peculiar situation adds much to the beauty of every object. A little further in the same walk, your notice is attracted by an opening in the wood, which dis- covers the river winding round the foot of a rocky hill, covered with a profusion of wood, and giving a romantic variety to the scene. The path now turns to the right, and leads t© A RUSTIC TEMPLE. near the edge of a pond, in the centre of which, is a fountain that throws the water twenty feet high, It must be confessed, that this is too formal for the place, and the sheet of seemingly stagnated water at the bottom, is far from either elegant or pleasing* The plain is bounded by a noble amphitheatre of very tall spreading trees, " whose nodding tops c< wave with every wind, and shade the scene " below. " Continuing the same path, you are ted to a lit* * building, called The OF RIPON, 235 The HUT, where the river, embrowned by the extended branches of the neighbouring oaks, winds rapidly at your feet. Here, through a large cleft in an aged tree, a small cascade is seen trickling clown the hill ; Fishers Hall and Mowbray Castle, are also included in the prospect ; the grounds swell picturesquely and the murmuring of the water produces a charming effect. At a short distance, a cascade is seen falling from a high rock, called The WEEPING ROCK. By an irregular walk you come to a small building situated on a little knoll, called LLMEHOUSE HILL. From hence, over a fine bend of the river, the steeple of Masham church and part of the town appear; whilst a rapid stream attracts your atten- tion, and is seen through the scattered trees which overhang the hill ; Mowbray-castle on one side of the valley appears above the lofty trees, and Mow- bray-point on the other seems to rise from the wood which surrounds it. The path now becomes winding and rocky- "To climb steep Kills require? slow pace at first. " X :endrnp 23& THE HISTORY Ascending through a thick grove of trees, from aa opening, you command Pishers-hall, and from another place Mowbray-castle. Proceeding still further you arrive at The NEW MOUNT, ■where the valley and woody scenery appear in great perfection with the hills and rocks adorned by all their native beauties. Continuing your walk up the hill, from a green seat in the High-walk, you have a different view of the town and church of Masham. A little further, from a more elevated situation, the river appears broken into four sheets of water divided by rocks and trees. From hence, York minster, at the distance of thirty miles, fs distinctly seen ; also the tower of Tanfjeld church and part of the town. The next object which claims your attention is MOWBRAY POINT, built with rough stones on the summit of a rock, to represent a ruin. In this building are a handsome dining room, a small drawing room, and a kitchen* From the area in front the prospects ar*e grand and extensive, " Here OF RIPON- 237 " Here hills and vales the woodland and the plaitt* €€ Here earth and water seem to meet again, «' Not chaos like* together crush'd and bruis'd, * r But as the world, harmoniously confused : u Where order in variety we see, '* And where, tho' all things differ, all agree. n Looking over the valley the river appears bro- ken into various forms by the impending hills and rocky banks, in some places calm and smooth, in others raging impetuously over masses of stone, torn by its fury when swollen with rain, from the adjoining rocks ; Fishers-hall, and towards the left, Limehouse-hill, raise their heads from the woods, by which they are almost buried. The distant objects form as charming a bird's-eye view as any of which the kingdom can boast. In front are seen the whole range of Hambleton -hills, and the town of Thirsk, with an extensive, fertile, and variegated country. Towards the right York min- ster, the Yorkshire Wolds, Gilling, the seat of Fairfax Esq ; and Craike-castle. Towards the left, the mountain called Roseberry-toppin near the mouth of the Tees, at the distance of forty- five miles; and within a nearer circle, the villages of x % Tanfield, 238 THE HISTORY Tanfield, Kirklington, Topcliffe, Masham, &c. with numerous farm-houses, and here and there " A spiry dome M Sacred to heaven, around whose hallow'd walls " Our fathers slumber in the narrow house. " By an agreeably shaded walk you are led to a building used as a servants-hall ; near to it your attention is caught by the beauty of a cascade, running rapidly from the opposite rock. And here you bid adieu to the naturally romantic curiosities and pleading prospects which are displayed through the whole of this place. We have only attempted to give a brief sketch, nor are we able to do justice to it in description. We leave it to the contem- plation of those, who enjoy the beauties of nature* O, thou goddess " Thou divine nature ! how thys.If thou blazon'st." NEWBY HALL, NEWBY HALL, Tkc Seat of the Right Honourable Lord Grantham, JL HIS mansion is situated on the northern bank of the river Ure, about four miles from Ripon> and commands a charming and extensive view over the country; it was designed, and the excellent situation chosen, by Sir Christopher Wren, about the year 1705. The dogs, one on each side of the portico, are copies, well executed, in Portland-stone, of the statue at Duncornbe-park, commonly called Alci- biades' dog. I* the ENTRANCE HALL Is an excellent organ, handsomely cased with ma- hogany, said to be after a design of the late Mi. Mason; on the front is the figure of a faun hold- ing a Syrinx ; and on the top, that of a lion with a cupid seated on his back, playing on a lyre. This room is also ornamented with a picture of St. Margaret by Annibal Carracci \ a fine-landscape x is with 240 THE HISTORY with a groupe of Cattle by Rosa D'Tivoli ; and a large inlaid table, exhibiting one hundred and Seventy-one specimens of ancient and modern mar- ble; also two other tables of Egyptian granite. The PARLOUR, Is twenty feet square, decorated with a chimney- piece and table of Egyptian granite, over the for- mer of which is placed, a full length picture by BaptistaBattoni,of the late William Weddell Esq; when at Rome, pointing to a statue of Cleopatra; here are also pictures of Sir Thomas Robinson, the first Lord Grantham and his lady, painted at Vienna ; and the late Lord Grantham. The LIBRARY, Is twenty feet square, and contains a valuable collection of books Over the chimney-piece is a picture of Apollo rewarding poetry ; and above a mosaic table, is a portrait of the late Wm. Wed- dell Esq ; by Staveley. The DRAWING ROOM, Is forty feet by twenty- six, hung with tapestr) of the famous Gobelin's* manufactory, which for richness ♦ Gilies Gobelin a famous French dyer, in the reign of Francis the first, whose name has been given ever since OF RIPON. 241 richness and beauty cannot be excelled. The sight of this exact and highly finished copy of nature excites the admiration of every beholder. The figures and flowers formed upon it, are extremely rich and grand, and delineated so accurately, as scarcely to be surpassed by the pencil of the most eminent artist. The subjects in the compartments are, Venus rising from the sea; Venus requesting Vulcan to complete the arms of Eneas ; Vertumnus and Pomona ; and Diana and Endymion. On gilt frames of excellent workmanship are two large tables of the most beautiful verd antique marble, over each of which are two pier glasses, eight feet long and five broad. The ceiling is also divided into compartments, enriched by gilt mouldings; in the divisions are the four seasons, the figures of Diana and nymphs, Venus and the graces, and Phaeton attended by the hours, all finely painted by Zucci. The ANTEROOM, exhibits a rich display of ornamental stucco work with decorations, painted by Williamson of Ripon. Thi to the finest French Scarlets : his house and the small river he made use of at Paris, are still called the Gobe- lins; an academy for drawing, and a manufactory of fine tapestries were erected in 1666, and for this reason the tapestries are called, Of the Gobelin's. 2-42 THE HISTORY The GREAT STAIR-CASE, Is adorned with two very fine columns of the most beautiful Cipollini marble, with pilasters of the same, behind which stands, upon a richly carved and gilt frame, a table of jasper, of large dimen- sions, and over it is a picture of Judith shewing Holofernes' head to the people, by Calabresi ; and over each door, a bas-relief, one representing Antoninus Pius, and the other the triumph of Aurelian. The STATE BED ROOM, Is twenty-four feet square, and hung with most beautifully figured Indian paper. On each side is a dressing room, furnished in the same elegant manner. The DINING ROOM, Is sixty feet by twenty, and is highly esteemed for the rich display of painting. Figures and sub- jects from ancient mythology, by Zucci, are re- presented on the enriched panncls and ceiling. Four elegant pillars with corinthian capitals, sup- port the ceiling. The pannels on each side of the fire-place are beautifully ornamented with stucco work. STATUE OF RIPON. - 243 STATUE GALLERY. Much refined taste is displayed throughout the whole of this gallery. The statues are so arranged as to produce the best effect when viewed either separately or collectively. The gallery is painted in a style well suited to its contents ; the centre apartment is lighted from the dome. This collection is probably the best in the pos- session of any one nobleman in these kingdoms; we subjoin a list, as no description of ours can do justice to such exquisite specimens of ancient sculpture. FIRST APARTMENT. Silenus wi'h a skin of wine. Amuse, and agirlciyingwithabird's nest [modern] Tripod, with bas-reliefs, on which is a bust of Hercules: A boy laughing, [modern] over which stands a Dacian king, Epicurus Geta Galatea Septimus Severus An Urn An Urn Carracalla Ganimede Three circular bas-reliefs in Roso d'Egitto, Five *44 THE HISTORY Five bas-reliefs, casts after the antique; Urns in the niches. SECOND APARTMENT. Bust — Jupiter Faustina Minerva Bust — unknown Caligula Venus A Muse Brutus Bust — unknown In the niches, a boy playing on a pipe and a Terminus. THIRD APARTMENT. Young Brutus, Lucilla, A Sarcophagus with bacchanals and satyrs, on which is a small Hermaphrodite by Nolekens, Mercury in bronze, An antique tripod with a bust of the late Wm. Weddell Esq ; by Nolekens, A dog's bead, A tripod, on which is a Stork with a Snake in its beak, An OF RIPON. 245 An antique Bath of variegated marble, which will contain upwards of two hundred gallons, Bacchus and satyr, Minerva, Apollo Alexander, A Faun Augustus, A Sarcophagus with bacchanals and satyrs, on which is a smaller Sarcophagus. A Negro's head in basalt. Three circular bas-reliefs, in Roso d'Egitto. Five bas-reliefs, casts after the antique. KNARESBOROUGH. KNARESBOROUGH. K< .NARESBOROUGH is a flourishing market town, eleven miles from Ripon. It has sent mem- bers to parliament ever since the year 1 1 53. An extensive linen and cotton manufactory is carried on, and several other establishments of a similar nature, the first of these has of late years been ex- tended to a scale of considerable magnitude. The country around is well wooded, and most charmingly ihterspersed with gentlemen's seats and good vil- lages \ the neighbourhood has to boast of Harrogate, Plumpton, Harwood, &c. within a circle of a few miles. This place has repeatedly been the seat of war- fare, and is by nature well situated to resist the attacks of a hostile army. It does not form a part of our design to give a history of the town, but wc shall notice such places as are worthy of observa- tion and remark. The OF RIPON. ^47 The CHURCH, Is dedicated to St. John the Baptist; Lord Lough- borough is patron, its present annual value is three hundred pounds and upwards. The steeple is supported by four large pillars, composed of clusters of round columns, supporting four beau- tiful arches, much superior in point of elegance to those in the body of the church, and in appearance, considerably more ancient. This edifice has a peal of eight very musical bells, a large and excellent organ, a screen that separates the choir from the body of the church, which is pierced with figures of a lighted torch, a rose, and a trefoil, and several fine monuments, the most distinguished of which are those that perpetuate th: memory of the family of Slingsby. The CASTLE, Was built by Serlo de Burgh, a norman baron, who with his brother John, came under the standard of the conqueror in his expedition to England. About the year 1400 this bulwark formed the receptacle of the unfortunate Richard the second, when seduced from his retreat in the castle of Conway by Henry Lord de Percy. That the ho- nour done this building by the imprisonment of fallen 248 THE HISTORY fallen greatness might not perish in oblivion, the place of the king's confinement, is still called the king's chamber. In 1643 the foraging parties from this castle, so formidable for its strength, became the terror of the surrounding neighbourhood, and every succeeding day conveyed information to parliament of the inju- ries that marked their desolating steps. In the fol- lowing year, Lord Fairfax proved successful in his investiture of the castle, which was surrendered to him upon honourable terms. Soon after this, the house of commons gave orders that this, and other inland castles should be dismantled and ren- dered untenable. The lapse of one hundred and sixty years has awfully wasted its lofty towers; nothing now re- mains but a bare vestige of its former strength and magnificence. The venerable ruin, not the warlike castle, meets the eye, yet this monument of martial glory appears majestic, though in ruins. The DROPPING WELL, . Is situated in a beautiful walk, laid out and plan- ted on each side with oaks about the year 1740, by Sir Kenry Slingsby, and is now called the long . The spring rises at the foot of a limestone rock, SF EIPOK. 249 rock, about forty yards from the river Nidd, and after running near twenty yards, its silver stream spreads over the vertex of a rosk, from whence innumerable liquid drops precipitate themselves into a semicircular bason, apparently hollowed on purpose, creating by their fall a tinkling sound. This rock, about a century ago, started from the adjoining cliff and left a chasm, the width of which, in some places, is nearly three yards : An aqueduct conveys the water over this chasm to the edge of the precipice. T*he whole rock is adorned with verdure, and particularly with a species of moss that readily detains the calcareous deposit, this increases so rapidly that the people who shew the place are obliged frequently to scrape it off, which for a short time injures its picturesque ap- pearance. The spring is supposed to throw up twenty gallons in a minute : Doctor Short observes that its water abounds with fine particles of a nitrous earth, which it deposits only when in a languid state, leaving its incrustations on the leaves and moss it meets with in trickling slowly through the cavities of the rock, and the vulgar notion is that the water receives its petrifying quality by coming upon and passing through the rock : But the dis- y 2 coveries 2$* THE HISTORY covcries of Dr. Black have led to a more accurate knowledge of the nature and properties of petri- fying springs. It is now well known that they owe this quality to a superabundance of carbonic acid Gas or fixed air, which renders the limestone soluble, this, when the water becomes exposed to the air, flies off, and the calcareous earth is depo- sited; it will be easily perceived that the more the "water is divided, the more rapidly will this depo- sition take place. The people who shew this curious rock exhibit pieces of moss, bird's-ncs.s with their eggs, and a variety of other things which have been incrusted by its waters. FORT MONTAGUE, Stands near the summit of a perpendicular lime- stone rock, out of which the house has been ex- cavated by the industry of a poor weaver and his son, who after sixteen year's laborious perseverance, compleated this singular mansion. The fort with its walls, its cannon, and its waving flag, exhibits a very martial appearance, and gives a lively finish to this highly gratifying and romantic scene. In addition to the house, this ingenious mechanic has cut the solid rock, so as to form a garden, with its %F JUFON. 35t its terraces on the stupendous cliff. These v/alks formed by the labour of years, are ornamented with a pleasing variety of shrubs and flowers, here is a small green-house and a tea-room, which is frequently used by company visiting the place. As a memorial of his gratitude, he has named the fort after his benevolent patroness the dutchess of Buccleugh, nor is he less grateful for the encou- ragement and assistance he has received from Sir Thomas Turner Slingsby, bart. the proprietor of the estate. Just below this is St. ROBERT'S CHAPEL. Thi porch of this sacred spot is covered with spreading ivy, under whose branches the figure of a knight templar, cut in the rock, appears draw- ing his sword, as if to defend the consecrated pile from the violence of intruders. The chapel is cut out of the solid rock, and well calculated to inspire ideas peculiarly solemn. The altar and the roof which shades this hallowed place are covered with gothic ornaments: behind the altar is a niche for an image, and on each a bason for holy water. There are the figures also of three heads, supposed to represent the order of the monks of a once neighbouring priory, as they were stiled Sancta y 3 Triaitatis. 252 THE HISTORY Trinitatis. There is another head supposed to represent St. John the Baptist, to whom this cha- pel was dedicated. In the floor is a carity which in all probability was the depository of some an- cient relick. Saint Robert, the reputed founder of this place, spent his early years in the monas- teries of Strenshal and Fountains', where he dis- tinguished himself by extent of learning and austerity of manners. From these sequestered abodes he was made abbot of New-Minster, Nor- thumberland, which dignity he soon after relin- quished to seek retirement amongst the rocks at Knaresborough. Tradition attributes to him mi- raculous powers, in the taming of wild beasts, and superstition actually believed that an oil of medi- cinal quality flowed from the tomb that enshiined his ashes. Before we take our leave of Knaresborough, we must add a short account of St. ROBERTA CAVE, Situated near Grimbald crag and bridge. The entrance of this solitary retreat is now much ob- structed by rubbish. The roof of this dreary cell is marked with the initials of names, and some crosses; OF RIPON. 253 crossesj; in the interior is a recess, in which pro- bably was kept the simple food that supported the life of its rigid inhabitant. In this gloomy cave the body of Daniel Clark was deposited, after the perpetration of his horrid murder by Eugene Aram. A workman digging near the place discovered some human bones, in consequence of which and a curious scries of circumstantial evidence the crimi- nal met his deserved fate. A LIST of tit RARE PLANTS, IN STUD LET GRQ UNDS. BOTANISTS will find the grounds of Stodfey rica in curious plants ; the following list contains some of the rarer indigenous ones that have been found there. Carex strigosa, nearQuebec pilulifera, o Chlora perfoliata, o, and at Studley lime kiiRs, Chrysosplenium alternifo- lium, oppositifolium, Colchicum autumnale, meadows in the carriage road to Studley, Convallaria majalis, o — multiiloia, Daphne Laureoia, DianthusCaryophyllus. \ the walls of Fount : ? : r t LLIUM oleraceum, o Anagaltis tenetla, among the grass near the rus r ic bridge, Aquilegia vulgaris, o Atropa Belladonna, among the rocks near Fountains' abbey, Avena pratensis, o pubescens, o Campanula glomcrata, o, and at Studley lime kilns, Cardamine amara, Carex lemota, Dlpsacus pilosus, under the rocks at Fountains' abbey, Elymus europaeus, Euonymus europa^us, o Erigeron acre, on old walls near Fountains' abbey, Festuca elatior, o, on a dry bank, Fumaria lutea, walls near Fountains' hall # Galanthus nivalis, o, and banks of the Skell. Galeobdolon luteum, Gentiana Amarella, o, and at Studley lime kilns. Geranium lucidum, walls of Fountains* abbey, Geum rivale (rlore luteo) Helleborus viridis, Hieracium murorum, o - paludosum, o Hypericum montanum, o Impatiens noli me tangere, Lactuca virosa, walls of Fountains' abbey, Lathraea squamaria, under the trees near the entrance OF RIPON. of the gardens, Melica unifiora, nutans, o *55 Milium eiFusum, Orchis pyramidalis, o, and at Studley lime kilns, ustulata, ditto, Ophrys Nidus avis, ■ ■ muscifera, o Paris quadrifoiia, Parnajsia palustris, Pimpinella magna, Primula farinosa o, Polygonum Bistorta, o Rhamnus cathartic us, o Frangula, o Ribes alpinum, Rubus idasus, caesius, saxatilis o Satyrium viride, o Sesleria C3£rulea o Steilaria nemo;um, Serapias latifolia, o var : o Thalictrum minus, o Thymus Calamintha o, Veronica 256 Veronica montana, Viola hirta, o Asplenium Adiantum ni- grum, lane leading to Aldfield from Fountains' hall, THE HISTORY Asplenium Ruta muraria, Fountains' abbey, ■ Trichomanes, Aspidium lobatum, Cyathea fragiiis, in Robin Hood's well. These woods abound with mosses and lichens, parti- cularly that part called Mackershaw, which, though more picturesque than any other, is rarely pointed out to strangers. The plants peculiar to this wood, are marked with a cypher. PLANTS at BRIMHAM ROCKS. F« UMARIA claviculata, Genista anglica, Ophrya cordata, Vaccinium Vitis Idasa, Lycopodium Selago, ■■ alpinum, Hymenophyllum tun- bridgense, Polypodium Dryopteris. These rocks will prove highly interesting to the student of the class Crvptogamia. Between this place and Lord Grantley'i lake. Q* OF RlfON, SAWLEY MOOR are found 257 Care>; bmeivis, Narthecium ossifragum, Scirpus mukicaulis, Viola palustris, Lycopodium alpinuni. At LORD GRANTLEY's LAKE. Car. fix curta, - binervis, m (Ederi, Empetrum nigrum, Fumaria claviculata, Ophrys cordata, Orchis conopsea, Prunus Padus, Vaccinium Vitls Idsea, Aspidium Oreopteris, Asplenium Adiantum ni- grum. The muscologist will here find his time well employed. A LIST OF RARE PLANTS FOUND IN HACKFALL. JE< /GOPODIUM Po- dagraria, Astragalus glycyphyllos, Carex pendula, — — strigosa, . remota, - pilulifera, Campanula latifolia, Convallaria maja^is, Elymus europseus., Hieracium murorum, — subaudurn, — - paludosum, Ophrys Nidus avis, ■ ' — ■ muscifera, Prunus Padus Paris quadrifolia, Pyrola minor, Ribes alpinum, Rumc« 2$% THE HISTORY Rumex sanguineus, 1 Veronica montana, Salix pentandra, Scandix odorata, Scirpus sylvaticus* Sedum Telephium, Serapias latifolia, Cyathea fragilis, Polypodium Dryopteris, Aspidium dilatatum, » lobatum. The cryptogamic botanist will find his time well em- ployed in co 1 lecting thenumeious species of rai e mosses and lichens that are here produced in rich profussion. A CATALOGUE OF RARE PLANTS FOUND IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF RIPON. A, cRUNDO epigejos, in a field near the east end of Monkton moor, in a farm now occupied by Henry Belwood. Arundo Calamagrostis, pond in a field near a bleach- ground, up a green lane, about five hundred yards from the road to Burton-Leonard. Astragalus glycyphyllos, on a bank nea- a pond in the road to Clark's at Little-Numvick. Allium arenarium, ditto. ■ oler.iceum, ditto. Bidens cerr.ua, on Ripon common. Bupleurum of ripon. 259 Bupleurum rotundifolium, in a corn-field up a lane on the right of Thieves gill, road to Hackfall and lead- ing to Newfieid. Buiomus umbellatus, on Ripon common and in die pond on the Bull-close. Carduus Marianus, on the hill at Bishopton. Cerastium arvense, on Ellshaw hill. ■ semidecandrum, ditto. Eriophorum polystachion, in the same field with Arundo Calamagrostis. Carex axillaris, on the cage of a pond near Ripoi park, . teretiuscula, bogs behind Sharow, on the left of the road to Kutton-moor. — fulva, ditto. — — filiformis, ditto. vesicaria, in the bogs rear the low-mill. — ampullacea, ponds in the Ox-close. Geranium columbinum, on Ellshaw hill. Hieracium subaudum, in a stone quarry called Blind-pitj near Hutton. - umbellatum, ditto. Hypericum dubium, ditto. Jasione montana, ditto. Hippuris vulgaris, banks of the Ure near Hutton. Iberis nudtcaulis, near an old quarry by the road side in that rart of Hutton-moor called Cana. las fcetidissima, on a bank behind Clark's house at Little- Nunwick, z v Leoauius 260 THE HISTORY Leoaurus Cardiaca, in a lane at Melmerby. Lysimachia Nummularia, ditches on Ripon common, Mentha viridis. ditches near the Low-mill. — • piperita, ditto near Little- Nunwick, ■ rubra, ditto ditto. Nymphsea lutea, on Fisher's-green. Ornithopus perpusillus, with Iberis nudicaulis. Ornithogalumluteum, on Hungry-hill and at the bottom of a stony place in Red- bank. — — — - umbellatum, in meadows leading to the Red-bank pasture. Poa comprcssa, on a wall at the east end of Ripon minster Radiola milkgrana, on Hutton-moor. Scirpus pauciflorus, near the hedge in the field where Arundo Calamagrostis grows. Silene noctifiora, in corn-fields leading to Whitcliffe lime-kilns on the foot ro?d to Mackershaw. Salvia verbenaca, near Nunwick and on Skell-bank. Spiraea Filipendula, on the inclosures of Thornborough moor, and in a field near Tanfield- bridge. Stellaria glatica, in Sharow mires. Thymus Acincs, by the road side near the bridge at Nunwick, on Walkingham warren. Trifolium scabrum, on E lshaw-hill. Trollius europaeus, in wet meadows near Nunwick in the foot read to Meimerby. Turritis hirsuta, walls of Ripon minster. This ia Merrct's Cardamine bcliidifolia. Turritis OF RIPON. a6x Turritis glabra, bank of the Ure above Ox-close. Tuisilago hybrida, in Robin Hood's close. Utricularia vulgaris, pond in the Bull-close. Verbascum nigrum, under a semicircular wall near Robin Hocd's close, Vinca minor, in a hedge on a bank near Tanfield at the turn of the road to Masham. Littorella lacustris, wet places on Hutton-moor. Myriophyllum verticillatum, in ponds in the Ox-close, and near Little-Nunwick. Quercus sessiliflora, in Ripley park. S-ilix purpurea, near Nunwick. — Russelliana, near the North-bridge. Hydrocharis Morsus Ranse, pond in the Bull-close. Equisetum sylvaticum, meadows near Aldlield Spaw. ■■ hyemale, banks of the Skell near Mack- ershaw. Ophioglossum vulgatum, in a meadow above Fountains on the foot road to Sawley. Osmunda Lunaria, second field on the foot road to Stud- ley near the old path. Polypodium Phegopteris, in the wood leading from the second spaw at Aldlield to Grantley-lodge. Asplenium Ruta muraria, on an old wall near Ripon minster. Asplenium Adiantum nigrum, in a lane near Fountains hall. z 2 Blechnum 262 THE HISTOK.Y Blschnum barealc, near Aldfield spaw. Pilularia globulifera, on Button moor, APPENDIX or RIPON. 263 XI Q p* < % Cd 5! 3 p3 O •S O PS § 8 •• C •«*» ^ J= G-. *j (O .2 "2 "Zj O O *ss *5 v . ,, "c •£. ^ *: "U »"™2 bO % .5 '3 CJ Q -d 2 <3 4-) s £ 'S >«, CQ *< 3 *c > Cd (J CJ r^ 1 c5 C5 «-» Ih iG > -s >< Cd S V2 id 4- <-> 5^ 13 1/3 so O 1— < 1? a 6 2 bJQ *-> O CJ t/i "3h 1 « 1-1 1-^ P CJ 03 4-J • 1-* CO 1 S 3 Cd • O 5 C3 > '5 c CJ c/3 an O u c5 w ** X „ P-. g hJ 3 „ a > C T3 G CJ cd - l - J 'c5 S3 H CJ t— * '.O (5 O e 1 1 < 5J z O ** * ^ 1h +■ ^ <* t=* t> c CTS :a Z 5 - j3 -g *• ^ 2 ^ .S c «« • o ^ ih S .2 S c % 3 g X O G-> .' 5 4i O • w D • *S S J3 .S J 1 2 -§ ■ 5 £ ~ = ^ . , fi ^ K -O 2 ^ ^ T> " . ~ E £ S U ~ £ .5 2 .2 * 8 U ■So '^ ".a 1 = g * 2 ,-r- - u cj \£ ^ U P* 3 a. CJ 1-. ^bJQ CD '.a CD O-i M cj s -5 < > CD CD CD O P* CD CD "3 CD CD C a. pS — ( "3 is CD pj M u '3 ~ . J GO > IS pi U M a Pi U T3 CD M s CJ 3 £ g O l^» -£J u U fep ts CD C u CO *5 p£3 CD CD -5 ►-» C *>* ►h CD CD CD CD O ex CJ O CD M CJ M u CJ > c5 IS ps CD O X """So "3 jap > CD X 2* p-« "So C5 1^ "3d cS "So 13 > 55 !3 > (J *-* 2 S 5 t-H .2" > CJ . cd c c 53 3 > w ci .5 *3 g SO s 5 CD g P* c/3 8 cj CD as Q CJ cd W IS 1— J H a66 THE HISTORY £ . .§ o 3-. rp *3 P c^ (D J JdO c M o 12 .» P v IS »-— • «j=; . —. • u 4-i p-< CO .5 c p a u a* r» £ s •*— 3 o c/o H p O ►-* Cj a* > l-l u 2 no « w O P-« ^ K _ ; X • * £ w u „ I 2 5 « "P « > O J3 W H c y P O pQ p u m h p: c c« ** m *-! CO o c X 2 p .5 U) O ttf ^5 pO 0L, CO ffi G. w a," a* < APPENDIX No. 2. See page 18. An abstract of the charter # to the Corporation of Ripon, granted by king James. L\.ING James the second by this charter dated the twelfth day of January in the second year of his reign, incorporated tbe borough ot Ripon by the name of the Mayor, Burgesses and Com* monalty, of the borough of Ripon, in the county of York. And ordained that by that name they should have perpetual succession. And that by that name they should be for ever personable in law to hold as a body corporate and politic ; and to have, acquire, take, possess, and retain lands, tenements, * The original charter remains upon record in the chapel of the roils, Duodec : far: patent: dz anno regal y&cobi sec undo. 268 THE HISTORY tenements, liberties, privileges, jurisdictions, franchises, hereditaments, goods, and chattels, of whatsoever kind, name, nature, quality, or species they might be, to themselves and successors. And by that name to plead and be impleaded. And that they should have for ever one common seal, with liberty to alter the same at pleasure. And that there should be within the borough of Ripon one of the burgesses or inhabitants of the borough aforesaid, called the Mayor af the borough of Ripon, and twelve of the burgesses or inhabitants of the said borough called Aldermen of the said borough, and twenty-four of the burgesses or in- habitants of the said borough called Assistants of the said borough. And that the Mayor, Alder- men, and Assistants for the time being, or the greater part of them, whereof the Mayor to be one, should have full power and authority to appoint, constitute, ordain,- and make, from time to time, reasonable laws, statutes, constitutions, decrees, and ordinances, so as the same should be used for no other than the public good, and so as the same should not be contrary or repugnant to the laws, statutes, customs, or rights of the kingdom of England. And by the same charter assigned, named, created, and made, Christopher Hunton, gentleman, OF RIPON. 269 gentleman, Mayor of the said borough ; Cuthbert Chambers, gentleman, Sir Jonathan Jennings, knt: Roger Wright, James Dobby, Thomas Jackson, Thomas Craven, Christopher Atkinson, John Shooter, William Myres, William Chambers, John Dawson, and Thomas Charnock, jun: gentlemen, Aldermen: Thomas Burton, gentleman, George Garbutt, Peter Johnson, George Topham, Francis Spence, Francis Walker, Richard Tireman, Leo- nard Pickersgill, Galfred Shaw, Henry Clark, George Moore, John Sedgwick, Thomas Watson, Stephen Palliser, Michael Plaine, Edward Harri- son, William Waterhall, Roger Wright, junior, Edward Kirkby, Richard Hammond, Charles Lister, Ralph Wrightson, Thomas Horner, and Jonathan Parving, Assistants: Sir William Dawson, knt: Recorder: and Edward Hodgson, gentleman, Common-Clerk. And granted to the Mayor, Burgesses, and Commonalty, of the borough aforesaid, and their successors, liberty to hold within the said borough one Court of Record, annually, upon what day in the second week of March they should think fit, before the Mayor and Recorder for the time being, or his sufficient de- puty Recorder, by plaint, pleas to the amount 0^50. And granted to the said Mayor, Burgesses, and Commonalty, 2J0 THE HISTORY Commonalty, and their successors, the appointment of two Serjeants at Mace. ANDgranted and ordained that the Mayor for the time being, the Recorder, and two of the last predecessors of the Mayor for the time being, who have served that office, should be keepers and Justices of the Peace in and for the said borough. And ordained that all persons serving in the said Corporation, should first duly qualify them- selves as is required by the statute of all officers ser- ving in civil and military capacities. Reserving to the Crown the power of removing any of its officers bv precept under the privy seal. And granted to the said Mayor, Burgesses, and Commonalty, the power of election on the demise of any of the of- ficers of the said Corporation, in such manner as had been used for ten years then last past. And of holding within the said borough, annually, two fairs or marts for buying and selling horses, and all manner of beasts and cattle, the one on the Monday next before the twentieth of March, and the three succeeding days, and the other on the Monday next after the first of August, and the three following days, with a court of Pie-poudre * to be * Sir William B'ackstcne, speaking of this court, in his Commentaries en the laws of England, says '• Th« OF RIPON. 271 be holden before the Mayor for the time being. Reserving unto the Archbishop of York for the A a time lowest, and at the same time the most expeditious com t of justice known to the law of England is the court of piepoudre, curia pedis pulverizati : so called from the dusty feet of the suitors; or according to Sir Edward Coke, * because justice is done as speedily as dust can fall from the foot. Upon the same principle that justice among the jews was administered in the gate of the city, qj that the proceedings might be more speedy as well as public. But the etymology given us by a learned modern wri- ter § is much more ingenious and satisfactory ; it being derived, according to him, from pied puldreaux, (a ped- ler, in old French,) and therefore signifying the court of such petty chapmen as resort to fairs and mafkets. It is a court of record, incident to every fair and mar- ket. Of which the steward of him who owns or has the toll of the market, is the judge: and its jurisdiction ex- tends to administer justice tor all commercial injuries done in that very fair or market, and not in any pre- ceding one. So that the injury must be done, complained of, heard, and determined, within the compass of one and the same day, unless the fair continues longer. The court hath cognizance of all matters of contract that can possibly arise within the precinct of that fair or market ; and the plaintiff must make oath that the cause of action arose there, f From this court a writ of error lies, in the nature of an appeal, to the courts at Westminster ; £ which are now also bound by the statute 19 Geo: III. c. 70. to issue writs of execution in aid of its process, after judgement, where the person or effects of the de- fendant are not within the limits of this inferior ju- risdiction. " * Inst: 272. f[ Ruth. c. 4, § Barrington's observat. on the stat. 337, f Stat. 17 Edw. IV, c. 2. t Cro. Eliz. 773, 37& THE HISTORY time being and his successors, his and their proper tolls, picage, stallage, and other profits to the same fairs or marts belonging or of right appertaining. And granted, restored, and confirmed unto the said Mayor, Burgesses, and Commonalty, of the borough of Ripon aforesaid, and their successors, all liberties, franchises, jurisdictions, exemptions, easements, lands, tenements, hereditaments, and privileges whatsoever, held or enjoyed by the May- or, Burgesses, and Commonalty of the said borough at any time heretofore, by virtue of any charter or pretended charter whatsoever. Saving unto the Archbishop of York for the time being, and his successors in like manner, all rights, powers, cus- toms, jurisdictions, and privileges whatsoever. which in right of the See of York, any Archbishop of York at any time had or ought to have had, enjoyed, or used within the said borough of Ripon, #r the limits or precincts of the same. APPENDIX APPENDIX No. 3. See page 44. An abstract of the charter granted by king Philip and queen Mary to the Free Grammar School in Ripon. K, .ING Philip and Queen Mary, who did upon the petition, as well of Anthony Frankish, gentle- man, as of the inhabitants of the town and neigh- bourhood of Ripon, by their letters patent, under the broad seal and the seal of the dutchy of Lancaster, bearing date at Westminster the aad. of June in the secondhand third years of their reign, found, ordain, and erect a Free Grammar School in Ripon, at all times hereafter to endure and to be called, " The Free Grammar School of " having one master and one usher, for the instruction of children and young men. And that their intent might have the better effect, and the lands, tenements, rents, revenues, and profits, AAA tO 2^4 THE HISTORY to be granted and appointed for the support of the said school, might be better governed and applied, from thenceforth there should be ten men of the town and parish of Ripon who should be called the Governors of the possessions, revenues 1 and goods of the said School, and elected and named John Norton of Norton in the county of York, Thomas Mark infield, William Mallorie, and Rich- ard Arthington, Esqs; Ninian Staveley, Robert Walworth, Anthony Frankish, Miles Newton, Marmaduke Middleton, and Ninian Parnell, gen- tlemen, to be the first Governors, and the same governors and their successors are thereby incor- porated and erected corporate and politic of themselves for ever, by the name of the Governors of the possessions, revenues, and goods of the Free Grammar School of que^n Mary in the town of Ripon, with power to receive and purchase to themselves and their successors of the said kins and queen, and the heirs and successors of the said queen, the lands, tenements, meadows, pas- tures, rents, reversions, and hereditaments there- under specifyed and any other lands, tenements, and hereditaments of the said king and queen, her heirs or successors, or of any other person or per- sons whatsoever, or of any other body or bodies corporate OF RIPON. %J$ corporate or politic. And that when one or any of the said ten goverors shall happen to dic^ that then and at all times thereafter, it shall be lawful for the others of the said governors survi- ving, or the major part of them, to elect and name another convenient person dwelling and having his family for the most part in the said town and parish of Ripon, into the place of the person, or persons so dying, to succeed in the said office of governor or governors. And the said king and queen, to bring their intent and purpose into effect did give and grant for them and the heirs and suc- cessors of the said queen, to the said governors and their successors, all their messuages, lands, tene- ments, cottages, houses, buildings, barns, stables, gardens, shops, meadows, feedings, and pastures in the occupation of cei tain persons therein named^ situate, lying,, and being in North-Stainley, Stud- ley-Roger, Allhallowgate, Crosgate, Skellgate, Westgate, and Ripon, in the said county, to the then late Chanrry of the Assumption of the blessed virgin Mary in Ripon belonging. Also all their messuages, cottages, houses, buildings, barns, sta- bles, garden^ shops, lands, meadows, and pastures, in the occupation of certain persons therein named, situate, lying, and being in Skellgate, Allhallow- A a 3 gate* 276 THE HISTORY gate, Horsefair, Finklestreet, Blossomgate, £ond- gate, Norton, Durton, Speltriggs, Longfurlong, Fishergn'e, and Ripon, to the then la et per suum na f ct omnes suas terras habitas, et habendas, et homi- nes suos ita liberos, quod nee Rex Angli* y nee ministri ejus, nee archiepiscopus Eboreci, nee mi- nistri ejus, aliquid faciant vel habeant quod est ad terras suas vel ad socam capltuW. TestibusG. Arch- iepiscopo Eboracenci, et P. Praeposito Beverlaci. Translation OF RIPON. 28l Translation of the charter of king Atbelstan. In the Name of the Holy and Indivisible Trinity, Athehtan, by the Grace of God, King of England, To all his subjects of Yorkshire and throughout England. Know ye, THAT I con- firm to the collegiate Church of Ripon, its Peace, Liberties, and Customs: And I grant, that those within the liberty of St. Wilfrid may have their courts, wherein all actions of trespass, and actions of all other kinds, that shall happen within the said Liberty, be they for them or against them, may be tried. With judgment of Life and Death * ; and that they may be credited by affirming with Tea, and denying with Nay, both amongst them- selves and throughout the habitable world. And that they may be so free, that neither the king of England, nor his subjects, nor the archbishop of York, nor his ministers, shall either do or have any thing which is of their possessions, or of the soke of the church, t APPENDIX # t( frodmortell " see Blount's Diet sub verb., f Dug.. Monas. vol, i* p. 172* APPENDIX No. 5. See page 78. Carta Adehtani Regis sancto Wiifrido de Ripon concessa. w- YT all that es and es gan Yat ik king Atheist an As gyven als frelith as I may And to ye capitell of Seint Wilfral y Of my free devotion Yair pees at Ripon On ilke side ye kyrke a mile For all ill deedes and ylke agyle And within yair kirk yate At ye stan yat Grith stole hate. Within ye kirke dore and ye square Yair have pees for les and mare. Ilkan of yis stedes sal have pees Of frodfnortcll and i! deedes Yat yair don is, Tol Tern, With OP RIPOtf, 283 With i/en and with water demc Ami yet ye land of seint Wilfrai Of alkyn geld fre sal be ay. At na nan at langes me to In yair Herpsac* sal have at do And for ik will at yai be sade I will at yai alkin fredome have : And in al thinges be als free As hert may thynke or eygn may se At te power of a kinge Masts make free any thynge And my seale have i satt yerto Fo I will at na man it undo. B B APPENDIX * ¥ ™ frith soke (i. e.) immunltatis Locus, pacis jumdictio. CoweJ. Kel. D. 200. APPENDIX No. 6. See page 79. Charter of King Henry the first. H .ENRICUS Rex Anglize vicecomitibus et ministris et omnibus baronibus Francis et Anglis de Eboraciscira etNorthumberlandia salute?n. Sci- atis me concessisse S. Wilfrido de Ripon et Thomae Archiepisco Eboracensi habeie feriam per qiiatuor dies ad Festum S. Wilfridi de Aprili decobus di- cbus ante festum etdie festi ct incrastino; et pre- sipio quod omnes illuc euntes et inde rcdeuntes cum omnibus mercatis suis habeant meam firmam pacerri ne eis injuria vel contumelia fiat, nequc disturbentur, super decern librarum fori sfactu ram. Testes Nigellus de Albineo, etGaufridus filius Paganis, et Gaudridus de Clynton apud Wood- stokam. APPENDIX APPENDIX No. 7. See page 80. Confirmatio Regis Step ham de ^liberiatibus infra Leucam. s- ^TEPHANUS Rex Anglix Archiepiscopis, Episcopis, Abbatibus, Baronibus, Vicecomitibus et omnibus Ministris suis fidelibus Francis et An- glis totius Anglice saiutetn. Prassentis charts tes- timonies confirmo ecclesb? S. Wilfrid! de Ripon, pacem suam infra leucam suam et ejusdem pacis violatas emendationem sicut est ab aliquo predeces-* sorum meorum melius ipsi Ecclesias collata, et a me cum eisdem regibus confirmata. Privilcgia quoque et donationes quas a regibus Edwardo sci- licet a avo meo Willielmo consecuta est, et liber- tates omnes et dignitates et consuitudines et recti- tudines suas, tarn in aquif quam in terris, et in b b 2 omnibus 286 THE HISTORY omnibus pcssessionibus in Saca et Socca, ct in his quse ad illam ubique pertinent. Ferias etiam suas quinque diebus omnibus illuc venientibus et illinc redeuntibus, cum omnibus rebus suis cum mea pace concedo et volo et firmiter praecipio, quod ipso Ecclesia ita teneat bene et in pace et honorifice in omnibus rebus in bosco et piano, in pratis et pas- furis in terris et aquis, in n'avibus et portubus et in omnibus aliis rebus sicut ipsa unquam melius et plenius et honorabilius tenuit tempore regis Edwardi et tempore Willielmi avi mei et tempore avunculorum meorum Willielmi regis et Henrici regis, et sicut chartae prsedeccssorum meorum tes- tificant Testibus Alexandre episcopo Lincoln** ensi, et Nigello episcopo Elensi, et episcopo Eboracensi, et Adelpho episcopo Carliensi et Ro- berto de Vere, apud Eboracum. Translation Of R1VOU, 2^7 Translation of the charter of foV/g Stephen. STEPHEN, King of England, to the archbish- ops, bishops, abbots, barons, sheriffs, and to all his faithful ministers, as well French as English , throughout all England, SENDETH Greeting, I confirm by the testimony of this present charter,. Peace to the church of St. Wilfrid at Ripon within its liberty, and amendment of its peace violated, and of what has been done contrary to the privi- leges granted by any of my predecessors, and con- firmed by me and them. And also the privileges and grants, which it received from King Edward, as well as from my grandfather King William \ And all the liberties, dignities, rights, and customs, as well by land as water, and in all its possessions in Sac and Soc^ And in every thing which any where belong to it. And also I grant, that fairs may be held for five days, in peace, and that all persons may come and go with their goods, and buy and sell, without molestation. And I further will, and strictly command, that the said church may as peaceably, honourably, and fully enjoy all things, in woods and plains, in pastures and mea- dows, by land and water, by sea and in port, and in all other things, as it held them in the time of b b 3 King a88 THE HISTORY King Edward^ in the time of my grandfather King William, and m the times of my uncles King Wil- liam and King Henry, and as is testified by the charters of my predecessors* Witnesses. — Alexander bishop of Lincoln, Nigel bishop of Ely, and bishop of lotk, Jdelphus bishop of Carlisle, and Robert de Verde^ at York. APPENDIX APPENDIX No. 8. See page 80 N the name of God, Amen. Whereas ir hath been decreed, by the authority of the holy Fathers that the Clergy ought to reside upon their own livings, and like careful shepherds be ready in their stations to shew good examples of charity, hospitality, and piety to others, as becometh cler- gymen ; they ought to visit the sick, and with good and spiritual advice should encourage and chear up the minds of doubtful and desponding persons We William, by divine permission, archbishop of York, primate of England, holding a visitation at the collegiate church at Ripon, found (with sorrow be it spoken) our said church almost quite desolate Q.gO THE HISTORY desolate of Residentiary Canons, notwithstanding the parish is very large and populous; tbe non- residing prebendaries going away with the Salaries, which are very considerable, and ought rather to be given to those who keep residence: At the re- quest of skilful men, and with the express consent of Mr. Robert de Baldock, and Mr. Robert de Bridlington, the Dean and Prebendaries of the * said Church, and all other canonical persons so- t lemnly summoned together by persons in authority ' under us, to a convocation held in the said Church ; handling, treating of, and fully discussing the cause of our order, which was approved of, and received by us and all whom it concerned; and and calling together according to law, all those whom it may concern, who have any business therein, or who were usually called; and all con- curring in a due observation of the laws, and ar- ticles necessary to be observed in this matter, invoking the grace of the Holy Spirit, with the express consent of the said Dean and Proctors; we order, appoint, determine, and finally declare, by our present order, constitution, or perpetual statute. That the yearly salary as mentioned below, shall be allowed to the present residing prebenda- ries, OP RI?ON. 201 ries, and those that shall think fit to keep residence for the future at the Collegiate Church at Ripon; and that it be assigned them, as we agree it should be assigned to those who keep residence, according to the form as shall be mentioned hereafter. To wit, the lands, meadows, products, and ser- vices, with their appurtenances ; the tythe of corn and iron of Nidd and Grantl'ey, with the pension of twenty shillings owing bj the Vicar of Nidd, and the spiritual jurisdiction, with its profits, which used yearly to be equally divided amongst the above mentioned Prebendaries. Also the whole altarage, or surplice-fees belonging to the said pa- rish and Church of Ripon, excepting the tythe of wool and lamb, either in money or in kind, which shall continue due to the prebendaries as before ; reserving only, and excepting, the dues belor^ging to the prebendary of the prebend of Monkton ; the prebendary of which shall receive his usual salary, upon the account of his being treasurer of the church, and having other offices anciently incum- bent upon him. We also order, that all and every thing belong- ing to the common pasture, be free and exempted from paying tythe, or any other burden, excepting only the dues which were usually paid to minis- ters 1<)2 THE HISTORY ters of the church ; the rest continuing due to the prebendaries as before. , We reserve also to ourselves and our successors, power to augment the salary which the said pre- bendary of Monkton acknowledges and receives, or is known to acknowledge and receive on account of the above mentioned offices incumbent upon him, when it is made lawfully to appear either to us, or our successors, that his income is not a va^ luable consideration for his trouble. We further order, that the salaries and wages of the Vicars and other Ministers of the church aforesaid, be paid yearly out of the common pas- ture, and that the prebendaries keep residence twelve weeks every year successively, or by turns as they please; and that they be present at Divine Service at the canonical hours, as at the collegiate churches of Southwell, and Beverley; and that tHs order begin at the feast of the annunciation of the bles- sed virgin Miry next ensuing, and to continue forever: Reserving to ourselves, and our succes- sors, liberty to change, augment, declare, explain, or alter this our present order, constitution, or decree, as often as we please, and when we think convenient. In witness whereof we have set our seal, OF RIPON. 293 seal, and the seal of the Church of Ripon to these presents. Dated at Ripon on the twenty-third of March, in the year of Grace one thousand three hundred and thirty-one, and in the fifteenth of our arch- bishoprick, Gent, p. 197, APPENDIX APPENDIX No. 9. See page 81. tnr% A. HE King &c. Know ye, That whereas six rs have formerly been appointed to attend and perform divine service at the Collegiate Church ei St. Peter at Ripon, and want a convenient house to dwell in near the said church; our reverend fa- ther Henry, archbishop of York, considering that it would be much more convenient and proper for them to dwell together, than to live separately; through a pious and good design proposes to give and assign a parcel of ground to erect a Dwelling house upon, that may be large enough for the said vicars to dwell in and inhabit all together, and that they may receive the charitable contributions of faithful christians, if their own inability or in- capacity doth not render them incapable of recei- ving the same. We. OF RIPON. 295 We therefore, willing to encourage the honest conversation and constant devotion of the said vi- cars, who bear the burden and heat of the day in attending the above mentioned church, and willing to encourage the charity of the said archbishop and ©ther pious and well designing persons, through pure and sincere love and affection which we bear to the memory of St. Wilfrid, who lies buried L\i the said church, of our special grace have granted for ourselves and cur posterity, as much as in us lay*, that the said six vicars, and the Succeeding vicars of the said church, make choice of one of the six, whom they please, to be their advocate ; and he shall be called the Advocate of the Vicars of the Church of St. Peter at Ripon, and they amongst themselves shall have free liberty to choose him, without either requesting the royal consent, or any other person's whatever. - And that the said Advocate, Vicars, Y the charter of~King Athelstan, which was afterwards confirmed by charters of other kings, the manor of Ripok was granted to the archbis- hops of York. In it, they enjoyed sac, soc, toll, tem, merchet, bloodwit, assize of bread, and of weights andmeasures, pillory, tumbril, infangtheof, outfangtheof, judgment of iron and water, gallows, gibbet, prison, goal delivery, his own coroners f goods and chattels of felons and fugitives, with return of writs and pleas of withernam, fairs twice in the year, and a market every Thursday. In the reign of king Edward the first, a writ of ^uo Warranto was issued at the suit of the crown, demanding of the archbishop of York to shew, by what authority he claimed to have the punishment of felons, of return of writs and estreats, and pleas OF RIPON. 30i of forbidden distress, his own proper coroners, amendment of assize of bread and beer, free war- ren, and why he claimed to have his park, free warren and lands in Rinon, Beverley, Otley, and elsewhere in the county of York, quietly from suit, without licence and will of the lord the king, an 1 hii: predecessors kings of England, The archbishop comes and as to jurisdiction of punishing felons, says, that he claims to have the jurisdiction of punishing felons at Ripon, Be- verley, &c. That king Athelstan before the con- quest of England gave the said manors to the arch- bishop of York and his successors, from which lime the archbishops of York hitherto have stood seized of the said liberty. And afterwards king Henry the first, son of the conqueror, amongst other liberties, granted to the archbishops of York; — The liberty of judging thieves, taken within the lands aforesaid, by his charter, which he brings into court, and which attests the same. And claims to have the return of writs, pleas of forbidden distress, estreats, &c. within the manors of Ripon and Beverley time immemorial. — And claims to have his own proper coroners at Ripon, within his own proper lands and proper tenures, and these before the conquest of England; from ir ; ragr 302 THE HISTORY king Athelstan, who gave to the churches of Be- verley and Ripon his lands so freely that none of the kings officers should enter there, to exercise any office belonging to the king. Which was af- terwards confirmed by the charter of king Edward, And afterwards fr<*m the time, from which coro- ners were first appointed in England, all his pre- decessors until now have had their proper coroners in the lands aforesaid and by them exercised ail things which belonged to their office as coroners.— - And he claims to have the assize of bread and beer from the conquest of England and so forth. And claims to have free warren in all his lordships and lands in the county of York, except in Thorpe,, from time immemorial. And says, that the lord the king, Henry, father of the lord the now king, granted to one Sewall his predecessor, that he and all his successors should have free warren in all his lordships, by his charter dated at Westminster in the fourth year of the reign of the said king, which he brings into court, and which attests the same. And as to being free of suit, says, that he claims to have his manor of Beverley with its members, and his manor of Ripon with its mem- bers, and his manor of Patrington, quietly from suit, from the conquest of England. And he claims to OF RIPON. ^bS to have the parks of Beverley, Ripon, and Shirburn from time immemorial, and that he and all his predecessors have had a warren in all his lands, have inclosed his woods and thereof made a park, and that he and they have used the aforesaid liber- ties as he claims them. And puts himself upon the country. And the jurors, to wit, — William Lavell, James of Tryvell, Thomas of Cunnaby, John of Balle, William of Holtbv, Robert of Holme, Thomas of Lutton, Ralph Salvayn, William of Hertlington, Hugh of Linton, William of Stabler, John of Milford, Nicholas of Oglesthorp, John of Sutton, and Richard of Bruntley, say upon their oaths, — • That the aforesaid archbishop and all his prede- cessors from time immemorial have fully used all the liberties which the aforesaid archbishop now claims, and therefore it is adjudged, — That the aforesaid archbishop should from thenceforth be quiet with his liberties, and the king take nothing by his writ. Exemplification of letters patent, of H. 8. B. B D. 3. A 2. No 2. ADDENDA. ADDENDA. 'N a wall, in a place called the kings, whhtn the church of Chichester, there is a paint- ing still in good preservation, representing an interview between Saint Wilfrid, attended by his clergy; and Ceadwalla, king of Sussex, attended by his nobles: Wilfrid addresses the king, on a scroll, l< Da Servis Dei Locum Habitationis " propter Deurn." — Ceadwalla answers, " Fiat " sicut petitur. " This painting was executed by Theodore Ber- nard!, an Italian master, about the year 1496. See Heys History of Chichester. Note OF RIPON. 305 Note — On FOUNTAINS' ABBEY. ( see note,, page 172 ) The two most complete and magnificent re- mains of monastic aichitecture in Great-Britain, s re this abbey of Fountains', and the beautiful abbey of Melrose in Scotland. And it is remark- able that they were both of the Cistercian order, and founded the same year, and both had their origin from, or were under the direction of the same Cistercian monastery, Rivaux in Yorkshire. The abbey of Melrose is here mentioned, chief- ly to introduce to the notice of the public, the effect of moon-light on these venerable structures. The desciiption of this effect by Mr. Walter Scott, in his late Poem of " The Lay of the last V Minstrel y " is touched w 7 ith the most delicate and appropriate colouring. But before it is given, it is proper to obs:rve, that a very judicious critic, Mr. Dallaway, in his essay on English architecture, has in various instances been struck with a sensible impression of the effect, and has also given the theory, whence it may be supposed to arise. On Gloucester cathedral, page 64, he observes, " The extremely beautiful effect of large masses " of architecture by moon-light, may be considered " as a kind of optical deception, and nearly the a same jOO THE HISTORY u same as that produced by statuary when strongly " illuminated. Thus seen, the tower of this u cathedral acquires a degree of lightness, so su- 41 perior to that which it shews undqr the meridian €i sun, that it no longer appears to be of human " construction. " Again, page 154, " If seen by moon-light, the Radcliffe library " (Oxford) loses much of the heavy, depressed " appearance, it shews under the meridian sun. " I have frequently surveyed St. Paul's, London, " under a similar point of view, and have been 4i surprised by the fine proportions of tfye colonnade " surrounding the dome, which an atmosphere of " thick smoke had positively obscured in the " day-time. " There can be no doubt, but that the longaisle-s, the majestic tower, the lofty arches, and bold pro- jections of Fountains', will exhibit masses of light and shade not inferior to those of the celebrated pile on the banks of the Tweed. ROADS' OADS. MILES. IPON to Aldfield spaw .......... 4 Aldborough 7 Boroughbridge 6 Bridlington by York 63 Bath by Birmingham 232 ; Ditto by London 317 L~ Birmingham 131 Buxton 84 — Bristol 218 ~ Brimham-Crags 9 Carlisle . . . 94 — Castle-Howard by Easingwold 32 Duncombe-Park by Thir^k . 25 Edinburgh 191 Fountains' Abbey 3 _~~ Hackfati 7 Harrogate • . I* ^_ Harevvood house 17 RIPON OF RIPOK. 309 MILES. R I P O N to Keswick 94 Kendal 78 ■ ■ Knaresborough 11 1 London by Lee\?5 219 Ditto by Borougbbridge - - 208 — — Leeds ---'-* 27 * . Liverpool by Leeds « - » lot Manchester ditto 62 « Matlock-Eath 104 — Nevvby Hall 4 - Penrith ~6 Redcar by Thirsk 4^ - Ditto by Northallerton - - - 49 ■ Studley-Reyal 2 Seaton-Carew - - - 47 ■ Sheffield 60 Scarborough by York - 63 -Ditto by Thirsk - - - 58 York ,....,».♦..,..# d © 2 FAIRS. ¥ A I R S. JL HURSDAY after January 13th. — Horned Cattle, Leather, and Cloth. May 13 and 14 — Horned Cattle, Horses, Sheep, Cloth, Sec. First Thursday and Friday in June — Horned Cattle, Sheep, Cloth, &c. First Thursday after August the 2 2d. — Horned Cattle, &c. November 23d. — Horned Cattle, Cloth, &c. The general hiring day for Servants* INDE X, INDEX. Page. .VE'RAGE Rent 20 Arms of Ripon .... 21 Ald&ell spaw 222 Arms of the church . no Altar piece 118 Antiquities 46 Ancient custom .... a6 AHa's-hill 50, 73 Appendix No. 1. Domesday . . 263. No. 2 Corpora- tion charter . 267 — — No. 3 School do. 273 — — No. 4 Athelstan's ditto ...... 2S0 « No. 5 do, verse 282- t No. 6 Henry's charter .... 284 — No. 7 Stephen's charter , , , . 285 Appendix No 8 Regu- lations for the church 289 — — No. 9 Htnry the fifth's charter 290 No. IO Inquisi- tion taken . . 298 ' — — No. 1 1 Manor of Ripon . . . 300 Addenda' 304 Bridges . . S Burghs 9 Burgh-motes ...... 10 Bedern bank Si Benefactions 9 6 Botany at Studiey . . 2 54 Brimham Rocks 256 — **- Sawley moor . 257 — — Lord Grantley's Lake 257 -. Hackfkll .... 257 Ripon . 258 Pag** 1289 r 290 . 298 r . 300 • 304 • 5 • 9 . 10 . fi . 9-6 • 254 s 256 • 257 5 • 257 • 257 . 258 Brimliam 3** INDEX. Page. Brimham Rocks . , . 227 Conqueror's survey . 14 Constitution of the Borough .... 16 Corporation, members removed , . . . 17 ■ new charter 1 8, 267 Charles the first .... 34 Coroner . . .. . 301 Curious narrative . . 47 Church 77 ■ ^ - rebuilt by Thu-sran. ... 79 l . destroyed by ***« a — *. o- — - dissolved ... 84 Ciapter-house . . 79, 1 17 Church, state of . . . 94 * -present state of 1 1 1 * Revenues . 89, 95 ■- dimensions of 119 . East Window 1.21 Chapel on How-hiil . 93 Cleasby school . c . . 96 Chantries 2$, 85 Dispensary 44 Deansj list of 98 Page. Deanery 76, 95 Etymology 5 Ecclesiastical account 55 Easter, disputations on "58, 61 Fountains' abbey 172, 305 Fountains' hal! .... 204 Fairs 310 Grammar school ... 44 Glass painting 121 Horn blown 11 Henry the fouhh ... 15 Hand-law 19 Horn and belt 21 noipitaU .....*.. 152 — ~ — ofSt. Mary Magdalen. . . 152 of St John 160 of St. Ann 161 — Jepson's . . 162 Hackfall 231 Incorporation by Alfred 10 Iron Gftes 119 James the iiist 33 Knaresborough .... 246 library of the Church 118 Linen INDEX. Page. Linen Manufactory . 34 Lord Giamley's Lake 230 Manufactories ... 33, 34 Market-place 6 Monasteries suppressed 18 Mayor elected ..... 18 Mayors, lis c of ... . 36 Members of Parliament 32 Moon -light 305 Mills 41 Monastery founded . 57 Monasteries 76 Monuments 125 Manor cf Ripon . . . 149 Navigation 40 Ncwby-hall 239 Obelisk • • 6 Origin of the town . 7 Obiis 84 Organ 115 Qihcers of the church no President's court .15 16 Parliament's Troops . 39 ^Plants, list of 254 Population . . 45 Prebends ...... 82, ioz 3*5 Prebendary- of Stan- wicli .,..,. Sc Premium 34 Prisons 150, 15 x Roman Road 7 Ripon destroyed 8, n, 13, H> 72, 75 Ripley's (Hugh) will 19 Recorders, list of . . 31 Ripon Arms 20 Ripoa Rowels, (in a ncte ) 33 Roads 308 Scots and English Commissioners 35 Springs of Water ... 41 Sunday School ..... 4c School of Industry „ „ 45 Sub-deans ....... 10 1 Studley ......... 207 Town-hall ....... 42 Town rebuilt . , , 15, 80 Theatre ....*.. 7. 43 Vicars. 109 Wakemen ....<».. £© — — - - list of . . . zz Woollen * INDEX 3H FAge. Woollen cloth 3 1 Water Engine .... 36 Wil§id'$ Feast .... 44 Wilfrid, St. \3$~ $1, 304 Wilfrid's Arps . . . / 7° THE END, Farrsr, Printer, Ri?gk. ERRATA. Page 9 note, for D minis read Dominio. — — 10 line 20, for erroniously, read erroneously, — 18 — 19, aid an asterisk, and see Appendix No. 2. - 34. — 24, for and, read which. — — 50 — 6, for c : rcumferance, read circumference, 102 — 11. dele, the dean's nephew. '■ 3°5 ■"*' $* for founded the same year, read foun- ded about the same period. ■ 306— 22, for pale moon-light, read the pale moon-light, ^ / ^^t/\^7>r^p