Ub3 c / -^^^ «5 -V ,s -/, ,0 O^ • '^ V'^' ^^•, '^A s^' x^'^ ''^^ ,0o^ V '5 0' ^5 -^> 'c 0" ^^ "•> .O' fA >^^ x*-"^ ■'*. \<- "^A v^' ^-^ V*' ~.^' .<-^ 'cf. >• -<■ .0 o N' ,^^^ ■% '^.. C^' %.^'^ ^'^''% ^°^ .*■ A' .■^■ ^/■. .vV '"fA V^' '^^ o^ './. v^- V w. / \ ENaiMlKi: DErARTMEM, U. .S. All.MY. PRELIMINAPvY REPORT A EEC0NNAI8SANCE SOUTHERN AND SOUTH EASTEM NEVADA, M^DK IN 18 Gi), Fli;sr LIKUT. CKd. \l. U IIKKl.EK, Coiil-s of Km;ini;i:i,s. I'. S. Ai:my, ASSISTED BV riK.ST LIEIT. I>. W. l.oriCWUOD, t'oni's li>iado Iviver 55 Navifjation of the Colorado ^C Kio Virf;en 57 Timber 57 Game 58 Monntain-roads 59 Cave in Cave Valhy 59 Koute taken by emi'jrants thronf;li I)ealli \alley W) Old Salt Lake road 61 Mormon ronte, l^oT bl M ips til Js'arro\v-i;anf;e railways '>rj Wheelers Peak in parts of iSonthern and Southeastern Xevada. The princii)al features of this report will be embodied in volume I of his forthcoming report of geonrai)hical explorations and surveys west of the one hundredth meridian, to be printed under provisions of the act of Congress approved June 23, 1S7 1. In order, however, that the report upon this reconnaissance may be made available at once, I would recommend that one thousand copies be printed at the (Jiovernnient Printing Otlicc for the use of this ofilce, upon tlu; usual rciiuisilion. Verj- respectfully, your obetliont s(Mvaiit, A. A. nujirnRETS, Brii/adier-Gencnil and Chief of EiKjincers. Hon. W-M. \\ . r.El.K'NAl', Sa-retnty of ^^'a)■. Api>roved. By order of (he Secretary of War, n. T. Ciio.^ijv, Chief Clerk. War Depaut-mea-t, March 11, lS7r>. United States Engineer Office, GEOGRArnroAL Explorations and Surveys West of the KiOrn jieridian, Waxhiiif/ton, T>. C, February IS, 1S75. General : I have the honor (o transmit herewith a report concerning an engineer reconnais- sance accomi)lished in ISdit, under orders from the headipiarters Department of California, and under luy charge, in parts of Southern and Southeastern Nevada. It slundd be remarked that this report has been prej)ared at such intervals as press of other duties would allow, and that its i>rlncipal features will be embwdied in volume I of the forthcoming report, in course of publication unlimiiiary report in m-Htimh'o, more partieiilarlv, to the military features connected with the reconnaissance through Southern Nevada, lately con- ducted under my cliarge, in which T was assisted by Lieut. 1). W. Loekwood, Corps of Engineers, Suited States Ai'my, three lUofessioTial assistants, and two practiced soldiers, accomiianied l)y an escort of twenty-li\e men of Company IT, I'^ighth United States Ca\alry, from Camp Halleck, Nevada. The conception of this reconnaissancie having originatt'd wilii the lirevet major jieniral com- manding the department, was commuuicated to the Chief of Engineers, and, meeting witli his ei)useut and approval, Special Order No. !)i was published, as follows : [Special Oiilers, No. i)-!.] IIliADQUACTKKS Pkt \l: 1 M I N I iil ( AMIliliMV. Sun I'linifixiv, Jiiuc 7, 181)9. By aiitliority from )io;i(liiii alters Military llivisioii of the I'acitic, LiiMit. (iiMjr-jo M. \Vli(i'l<'r, United i^tiitcs Eii<"iiieer.s, will proceed with liis eivil assi^stallts and tliree enlisted lueu to either Camps Halleek or Kiiljy, Nevada, and having been joined by Lieut. D. \V. Loekwood, United States Kngineors, now en route via Fort t'hiirehill, will there organize a party, to consist of two uon-commissioued oftieers and twenty-three enlisted men, (cavalry, or infantry monnted,) such drivers, packers, and guides as may be re(|uired; e(iuip them with the necessary, full, and completeout- lit, as far as the resources of the, posts will unable him so to do ; after which he will proceed, via the White Pine district, to make a thorough and careful reconnaissance of the district of country to the south and east of White Pine, extending his recounaissanee, if practicable, a« far as the head of iiavigatiou ou the Colorado Kiver, with a view of opening a road thereto from the White i'lue or CJrant district, of obtaining correct data for a military map of the country, and for the selection of the site or sites for such nnlitary post or posts to cover the mining country .south and east of White Pine frtun hostile Indians, as may be re(iuired. Such explorations and examinations as may will be made in reference to the physical geography of the country, its resourei^s in wood, water, agricultural or mineral productions. The character, habits, and numbers of Imlian tribes, aiul their disiiositioii toward settlers ami miners, will be sub- jects for investigations. Upon his return, he will make a detailed report upon the results id' the expedition, accomiianied by a map and subreports of a.ssistaiits. By commaud of lirevet Major-Geiiei:iI riid : John p. SiiiutiuRNE, Aaahlant Ailjiilaiit-General. Having carefidly made the iiecossary pielimiuary arraugemcnls. dtine 11-' found us ready to take the held. It having become necessary to forward transportation from Fort Churchill, Nev., to Camp IJuby, Nev., Lieutenant Loekwood was obliged to leave late in -May, as ho would have to make trom the former iioint a inarch of about nine dtiys ou the old overland road. Camp Halleck was reached on the morning of the loth, and it was I'oiind that few necessary arrangemeuts had been completed for fitting out the expedition for so long and dillicult a trip. It was necessary, therefore, to remain .several days in this vicinity, which proved of no considerable ultimate delay, as the survey of a hay reservation for the post was required. Careful sets of astronomical aiul meteorological ob.servations were taken to test our instruments) 8 and to pat thoin ami ourselves in working-order; besides, a line was carefully run to Teko, the nearest telegraph-station at that time, (since then a new location, called Ilalleck Station, has been made more nearlj' opposite Camp Halleck and more accessible than Teko,) from which longitude by tele- graph was to be determined. Meanwhile, Lieutenaut Lockwood. having reached Ruby with wagons and mules, came at once to Hnlleck. Fiually, ou the evening of the 2Gthof June, everything was ready for departure. Instructions from the Chief of Engineers were to the effect that, iu consequence of the geologi- cal survey iu charge of Clarence Kiug, it would not be necessary to delay on account of details, until about the latitude of White Piue was reached; but as it was thought best to carefully fix the- l)ositions of as many points as possible, and among them Cauij) Halleck, as well as also to perfect methods, it was considered advisable to go first to Elko, thence to Peko, on the Central Pacific Kail- road, as the Humboldt opiwsite the latter place was at the time uufordable, obtaining in this way longitudinal position for tiiese points as well as Halleck. This duty was completed on the eveniug of the .jd of July. Leaving Camp Halleck on the morning of the 4th, and following the upper or (Jilseu stage-road to White I'iiie, until the old overland roaiied. Therefore by conducting the topographical search as far to the east as the Utah Hue, and leturning, if possible, on a more westerly line, the greater if not the best parts of South- ern Nevalies along the more westerly line for our return ; meanwhile parties went out to the north and eastward. A secure and pleasant camp was made; also arrangements to 2 w 10 collect all possible data previous to encountering a more difficult country to the south. The march to this point from Ice Creek was 28| miles, over a fine mountain-road, with no water available till within two miles of the camp. TRIP TO PEETJSS LAEE AND RETURN. Upon the latest published map of Nevada consulted, (Holt's map,) a lake of considerable size, called Preuss Lake, is put down as cut by the eastern boundary of the State. It was determined to send a small party to find oiu this locality and return to the camp at the cave. Accordingly, on the morning of the 14th, with au escort of ten men, a start is made, and passing through the break of the mountains where lies situate the little places known as Montezuma and Springville, belong; iug to the Patterson District, Duck Lake Valley is reached, and bearing along its northwest side, after a march of fifteen miles, a camp made at Benson's Greek. Here is good grazing, and a tract of arable land. Have passed a lake of small size, filled with innumerable duck, comprising most of tlie game so far encountered; large game very scarce, only au occasional deer and antelope seen, and these at long distances. As for small game there is but little; along the foot-hills now and then a few sage-hens and jack-rabbits are encountered ; higher up, and wherever timber is found, grouse appear in occasional flocks. The next day a low divide is crossed into Spring Valley, which, like its mate, (Steptoe Valley,) continues, it is said, to the railroad direct, with only low divides between almost continuous depressions. A march of over twenty miles leads to a camp opposite Jeft' Davis Peak, near the Shoshone Mining District. Camp is made at a small creek with pure and clear water, near ranches that have sprung up in conjunction with the mining camp. Bunch-grass abounds ; hay is plenty in the immediate neighborhood, and three or four thousand acres of cultivatable land await the settler. SHOSHONE DISTRICT. A few hours are taken for a hasty glance at these mines while the party is moving on. This is done in company with Mr. A. F. White, acting State Geologist of Nevada, who met us in this vicinity, having been our companion at the Gave for a few days. It is not proposed to enter into any detail with i-egard to mines in this report, as their bearing upon roads and means of commu- nication, whether military or civil, is very slight at present, and as their undeveloped stateis so general. The mines are on the western slope of the Snake range, and exposed in a rough break in the side of the mountains, down which a large wash of sand has accumulated, making a ramp to bring one up nearer to the level of the mines. The leads seem wide and well defined, free, also, in a great measure, from the base metals, and ought to work well by the ordinary wet process. There is certainly a good showing for the extraction of a large amount of ore, most of which is likely to be of low grade. But few miners were at work at the time of our visit. Water in the near vicinity of the mines is scarce; being enough for the necessities of the camp. The creek, near which the camp was made the night before, affords a good site for mills. Fuel abundant ; lumber to be obtained some eight or ten miles higher up on the same range. The party had gone into camp ; some springs of bad alkaline water. Before night fourteen rattlesnakes had been killed, and it was thoHght not inappropriate to name this place " Eattlesnake Springs." Further acqtiaint- ance with the locality proved that it was well to leave a warning in the name for the future traveler. From this point, the ascent of the mountain known as " Jeff Davis Peak," and considered the highest point between the Sierra Nevada and Eocky Mountain range is made. The summit reached by the moonlight, and a descent to the line of vegetation, where the rest of the men with the pack animals were in camp, is made therefrom. An early start in the morning brought us to the top at 8.30 a. m., and observations for latitude and longitude were taken, the barometer-observations showing an altitude of at least 13,000 feet. The descent was more rapid, but not easy, and night found us back at camp completely exhausted. The next day a march of twenty-three miles is made to Sacramento District, in a pass of the Snake range. The road all along Spring Valley had been a rude track, lately made by the prospectors of the region. Pure water is found in this mountain-pass. Some little fuel of scant cedar and nut-pine. Generally speaking, the water so far in our course Las been found far better.iu quality and more 11 freciuoiit ill iihicc and quantity than bad been anticipated. There are only a few places that have been at all alUaliiie or mineral. This advantage will prove a great one as travel is directed to any points along the eastern border of the State. SACRAMENTO DISTRICT. This district is situated in Red Canon Pass of the Snake range, and exposes to view, on the southern side, the mines that had attracted, at our coining, a lew miners. The products are both silver and gold, found within a limited com])ass, and in continiialion of the mineral belt to the northward of Shoshone, and which seems to follow several distinct luountain-chains through Nevada. The eastern limit shows slate. No present develoi)inents indicate a certainty of large mineral products, yet the average assays have been good, and the ore is easily mined. Chloride of silver appears in a highly crystalized spar, so near approaching quartz in hardness, texture, and ai)[)ear- ance that it is hardly possible to distinguish; however, I believe that, so far, no chlorides have been found in a highly siliceous matrix. The facilities for th(^ benefit of a good mining-camp are favorable. Water sufficient, wood enough for fuel, lumber in limited quantities in the mountains, at not too great distances. Both Spring and Snake Valleys, in the vicinity, are favorable for the production of the various fanu- sui)plies necessary for sustenance. It is not unlikely that one, or two at least, good leads or deposits will be found. So far, our intercourse with the Indians had been limited, appearances indicating that in many instances they have fled at our approach. The Shoshoiies and Gosiiitcs, in whose country tlic route had so far lain, have, in years gone by, sufl'ered greatly c»u the hands of the United States troojis, and our guide and interpreter was known to them personally, and the word having been passed along the lines, they had silently taken their departure prior to our coming. This was in- dicated ill two or three instances by the sight of deserted wick-e-Hi)S, and it appears as a well-attested fact that they have a great terror of the soldiers. Emerging from the pass, near Sacramento District, Snake Valley is entered, and here are encountered some of the Snake Indians, who are in the habit of occupying the valley iu [ilantiiig and harvesting sesison, raising scanty crops, which they cache for the winter use, and then retire to the mountains. Altogether, we have found some two hundred of these Indians, whose chief, JJlackhawk, is a shrewd and calculating Indian, undoubtedly of a character superior to the average. These Indians had never received annuities from any source, and had always, according to their own story, been pea(!eable and friendly to the whites. Some Mormons had farmed a ranch near them, about the center of the valley, but they had never brought anything from the Morniou side. Further insight into the Indian affairs iu Southern Nevada leads mo to suppose that but little care has been bestowed upon the manner iu which the Indians receive annuities or benefits from Government. To be sure, scarcely anything has been known of the number, character, or habits of many of these Indians, who are quite numerous. Yet, in the case of the Indians on the Muddy, who are living on the line of a mail-road, and have done so for years, up to the time of our arrival no such person as an Indian agent was known to them. I understand that lately a sub- agent has been sent to this particular locality. The most of these I ndiaiis,in case they were placed upon a reservation, could support themselves readily, and would be entirely peaceable and easily managed. The sc^cond day's nuirch down Snake Valley leads to Snake Creek, at a point that proves to be within half a mile of the Utah line. It had been my intention not to cross this line, as it not only carried me out of the military division of the Pacific, but also out of any proposed or supposed north and south line of communication to the Colorado. However, a part of this detonr-trij) was for the purpose of tiiKliiig Preuss Lake, which it still api)earedto be of some satisfaction to attempt. Ou the afternoon of the 2d August, a start was made, and next day at 5 p. m. Hawawah Springs, in sight of the lake, was reached. The next day brought us to its shores to receive only a disappointment ou finding it both salt and brackish to an extreme degree. A night march to the camp at llawawah Springs was made, aud after three days forced marching the more permanent camp in Cave Valley. Our return was upon a rough desert road, made by the Mormons in 18iJ7, I 12 when they were looking for places of refuge in case that our troops molested the quietude of their mountain villages. Upon reaching the old camp, observations were repeated for time, wliicli gave good results in determining the rate of the chronometers, which were found to have been runuing with great regularity. PATTERSON DISTRICT, Lyiug in a natural pass ot the Schell Creek range, was discovered by parties driving cattle through from Southern Utah to the vicinity of mining camps in and around Austin and Belmont. Noth- ing was doue, however, till tbe spring of 1869, when a little excitement sprung up. The showing of mineral appears upon the northern side of the pass, the leads having the general northern and southern trend so noticeable in most localities visited during the trip. A slight examination of these mines was made, and the general impressions derived were quite favorable. Tbe leads are found mostly in limestone. The country rock is much disturbed, and in consequence, until some deep developments are made, there appears no absolute certainty of finding a well- defined fissure-vein, although one particular lode, the "Gray Eagle," has tbe outward appearance of being the mother vein. There is a great absence of the base metals, and tbe ores will, in almost every instance, work freely. Water is scarce on the western side of the summit of the pass, and nearest to the best mines. Wood for fuel is in sufficiency, and lumber to be found on the eastern slope of the range at a distance of seven or eight miles to the north. There is a sad lack of capital at this as well as most other of these remote mining locations which want, coupled with remoteness, are serious drawbacks that now hold in aljeyance the develop- ment of a vast amount of mineral wealth in Southern Nevada. The animals and men having recuperated, on the morning of the 1st September, camp was broken for a start into a region comparatively unknown, and about which but little information could be gleaned from either Indians or white men. The long marches both by night and day, joined with constant labor, have been considered slight in comparison with the hardships expected from climate and desert in our further progress to the Colorado. Lieutenant Lockwood was detached at this point, and sent with a small party with orders to conduct his march via Pahranagat Valley, and reach some of the settlements on the Muddy. This proved to be the most direct line to the southward. I was led to believe that by going still farther to the east, a better route in regard to grass and water could be found for the train. Ultimate results showed that this idea was a false one, although either route would have been diflBcnlt for a number of wagons heavily laden — the nature of the road, tbe distances a^iart of the watering places, and chances for grazing being in advance uncertain. Passing to the eastern slope of the Schell Creek Mountains, through Patterson, the road leads along the foothills to the Ely Mining District, some ten or twelve miles above the head of Meadow Valley, with only one spring of water intervening, and a stretch of forty-five to fifty miles of com- parative desert. It was reported that Mormons were living to the east of the next range, named Fortification Kauge, and by crossing over into the chain of valleys so settled that a good road could be found well supplied with grass and water, upon which, by detouring a little, we could reach the settlement at Meadow Valley. I was greatly desirous of continuing the topography as far as the eastern line of the State, and this would give the opportunity ; moreover, we were all very curious to see as much as possible of the Mormons and their settlements. Our experience in taking this route was a sad one, but the extra amount of topographical and other information gained more than repaid. Crossing Duck Lake Valley, we came to the pass in the Fortification Range, and for four or five days labored faithfully to cross. This was called Pioneer Caiion, an appropriate name, as we were all pioneers during its passage. Most of the wagons were upset while going through this canon, although all possible care was taken, and everybody was at work from sun to sun. The escort behaved remarkably well, showing a great deal of energy and endurance, both of which qualities afterwards, in several instances, were called for, and at all times they did their duty faith- NoTE. — The locality reached was determined in 1872 to be the southern shore of Sevier Lake the reservoir of the water coming from the Sevier River. Hence Preuss Lake is hypothetical. The valley lying to the eastward of the Hawawah range, in which occurs an alkaline flat evidently overflown by water from Sevier Lake during seasons of great freshet, has been called " Preuss Valley " upon the atlas-sheets to perpetuate the name ot" this most excellent topographer connected with FriSmont's expedition. 13 fully. On the suiuiuit of the Pass, as inrlootl on every snmniit stiiBciently hi£;li, cnconntered in onr travels, as far as the t'ye could reach in all directions, one sees only eliaiii alter chain of mountains in every variety of contour, hiding from view valley after valley, found to exist only after a nearer approach. Descendinterior any higher up, except to the Mor- mon settlements on the Muddy, and these tind, at the present prices, the Central Pacific llailroad having been built, that it is better and cheaper to receive supplies via Salt Lake. Steamers run up now as far as .Mojave with (iovernment freight — occasionally as far as El Dorado Canon, where a small mining enterprise is being carried on. The proposition stands thus, so far as present means of information, which for all practicable uses are autheutic, tint in case any developmoats of the country call for it, the Colorado Itiver can be liavigateil by steamers as far as the old Indian crossing, about one and one-half miles below the foot of the Grand Canon; but that beyoiul it its waters can serve no beueQt to the internal com- munication or the gradual develoimuMit of its surrounding country except for purposes of irrigation. The reaching of the month of tlie Virgin has brought ns to the extreme southern end of the main line of the reconnaissance. The further continuance had to be controlled by the force at dis- posal, and the desire to gain all possible information while upon the ground, not alone for the sake of information and the full performance of dnty, but connected with it a lingering regard for the misfortunes of another, who possibly might be sent to examine this wild and desolate region, pro- vided this reconnaissance did not complete the required end. It appears that a renegade band of Navajo Indians have been in the habit of crossing the Col- orado at both La Paria and Ute Crossings, making raids upon the Mormon stock near St. George, and retreating by the same route. Provided the future develoi)ment of Southern Nevada calls for the establishment of a military l)ost, or posts, there are but few points at which this can be done. The direct lines through, as is shown, are but two in number. Upon one or the other of these such post, or posts, must be estab- lished, except further knowledge shows that some one point calls, on account of local, political, or strategic imi)ortance, for a post in its immediate vicinity. At Jleadow Valley, all that is rer|uired for the erection and sustenance of a post can be found. It is ((uite outside of the north and south lines of travel. On the line from Toano to the mouth of the Virgiu, there are really but four eligi- ble points— at Murray's Creek, Cave Camp, Pahranagat Valley, and the Muddy. Tiie finest of these positions, as regards central location and surrounding necessities, is Pahranagat. Although when we had reached the Colorado a great sense of relief came over us, that our recon- naissance line had been so far extended, yet it was well known by every one of the little party that the greater part of one of the hardest trips was yet before us. On the morning of the lid October we leave the mouth of the Virgin to thread our way, hugging the river as closely as possible, intending to follow this programui3 as far as El Djral > Canon, should circumstances permit. The first day out i)roveil a very disastrous and fatiguing one, and the night coming on found us in three parties, each in a sandy wash leading down to the river near Callvillc — some without water and with rations, others with water and no rations, and others again without either. We succeeded in getting together and reaching Callville by 1 ]). m. of the next day, with only the consolation of look- ing back and seeing that great ditliculties had been passed, while, turning to the other hand, as great ones stared ns in the face. OALLVILLE. This was originally started as a little Mormon landing, from whence stores coming to the river could be shipped to the settlements of Southern Utah, (^uite a large store-house and several stone shanties had been erected ; all were abandoned at the date of our arrival, adding desolation to ster- ility. There is no possible reason for regenerating the place, and whenever a stray traveler reaches these solitudes he will only see, as we have seen, the deserted store-houses and surrounding shanties. Here news from the party at Las Vegas ranch met us, ami also the intelligence that some grain had arrived at the mouth of Vegas wash — good news, since that purchased at St. Thomas had 20 become exbausteil, and beyond a little salt grass at tbe moiitli of tlie A'irgin, iiotbing bad beeu encouutered iu tbe way of forage. Tbe road down tbe Yirgiu from tbe conflaeuoe of tbeMiubly is not passable for beavy wagons in bigb water, on account of sbifting sands. At tbcse times a road upon tbe sand mesas to tbe westward will bave to be constructed. Tbis will be a rougb and sandy road. From tbe inoutb of Las Yegas "Wasb we liave before us tbe Black Butte, near w liicb Lieutenant Ives came witb bis boat at bis fartbest station upon tbe Colorado, wbile witb tbe river party. At tbis point tbere is a little sand island, around wbicb a small part of tbe river runs and again returns to tbe motber stream, collecting nuicb alkaline matter in its passage, lleacbing tbis. Lieutenant Ives judged tbat they bad found tbe moutb of the Virgin, and looking to the east and north, they saw tbe dark, bigb mountains, tbat seemed to say tbere lies no passage beyond, concluded that farther than this point no navigation of the Colorado could be effected. The mountain scenery in tbis locality, to my idea, was tbe most wild, picturesque, and pleasing of any tbat it has ever been my fortune to meet. Tbe walls of tbe Black Canon rise steep, dark, and sharp on tbe south and east, and to the northeast those of Boulder Canon, while tbe continua- tion of ranges leading to tbe north and northwest makes our station appear similar to tbat of a depression in a grand basin, from which escape seems diflicult in any direction. Tbe walls of Boulder Canon arc nearly perpendicular, from twelve to fifteen hundred feet in height. Tbe scene encountered upon reaching the river by moonlight was one of extreme loneliness and grandeur. The next morning those so fortunate as to return follow up the wasb to meet tbe train, in camp at Las Yegas, wbile tbe hardy party — pioneers of tbe last few day.s — have continued on tbe trail toward El Dorado Oaiion. A bard day's march in the burning sun is concluded, and night brings nothing save tbe certainty that no camp has been reached, and tbat no one knows where there is any water. We had been directed to some ambiguous place nearly one mile away from tbe trail -where it was said tbat it could be found, and flually, a little before midnight, we did find it — Lieu! tenant Lockwood and myself coming in somewhat later than the pack-train. Never was water more acceptable, though found in so drear a locality, high up among some dark volcanic-looking foot hills, npon which no one would suppose that raiu had ever fallen. During the day tbe surveying party bad gotten lost, and at night we did not know where they were— an affair that caused much uneasiness, as it would bave been little better than death if they bad followed any route except tbe one leading to Las Vegas. After reac hing El Dorado Canon, our apprehensions were quieted, and another party started out and came to tbat point. Strange as it may seem, there was a slight amount of wild bunch-grass, or '' bard-tack," as it is called, near at hand to our dismal camj), which, though very dry, offers some nourishment to the animals, that are allowed to graze till 10 a. m.; after which a brave start is made, and after winding in and out of canons and sandy washes, the mill at El Dorado CaQon is reached before nightfall. During tbe daj-, and while crossing several bigb divides, the river stretched out before us down be- low Cottonwood Island, and the mountains tbat follow down below Fort Mojave and to the east can be plainly seen. Tbe position of the post can also be nearly determined by the aid of a field-glass, although the distance was at least sixty miles. A day's rest was taken at the mouth of tbe canon to see if an y thing could be heard from the surveying party, and on the succeeding morning we start back and meet another party sent out from the " Yegas," at a little spring iu the canon, not very far from tbe niines. While at tbis point, a short time was taken to look at a few of the leads in El Dorado Disiuict. Before the war these mines had been the scene of some little excitement, which subsequently was broken up, and tbe camp nearly abandoned. About 1865 a revival was created, ami some of the mines bave since been worked. In 18G6 a company of troops were stationed near the mouth of tbe canon. The principal lead is tbe Tecbatticup, which has all the appearance of a true fissure- vein, though not very wide. The surface-showing of ores bave always assayed high ; those from the interior bave rich mineral indications, but at our coming, by the ordinary amalgamation pro- cess—the only one used— did not yield a large return. "Whether this resulted from mismanagement, or the fact that the process was poor and tbe mill old, it is ditticnlt to .say. Tbe vein-matter shows 21 galena, siili)lii(le of silver, anil copper pyrites. The .suli)liide of silver and what little chlorido is found are all that so far have yielded any return. In case that arrangements were made for roasting, it seems almost certain that this mine could he made productive. The facilities for mining are extremely unfortunate. Tlie mines arc in a perfect desert, without wood or water. Everytliing connected with their working is expensive, and must so continue until competition can be brought to l)ear upon facilitii's for transportation. The other mines in this district are comparatively undeveloped. Their nnmlier is legion, as is nearly always the case in mining sections. Every boulder that has a streak of mineral is likely to be located as a ledge, with all its dips and spurs, angles, &c. From this point we turn our backs to the far-famed Colorado, that should be known as the River of the Desert; winding its way here through steep and sterile canons, and there through arid and long-extended deserts, acting as an imperfect channel of communication, varying in velocity and \olnme. In my travels it has been my lot to cross it twice— at ."Mojaveand Fort Yuma— and to examine its character for nearly seventy miles from El Dorado Canon to the mouth of the Virgin, and when we looked back upon it for the last time no sense-was touched, save that of relief. During the day of October (Jth topographical parties have made the best use of the time, and the next day at 2 p. m. all start to join the main camp at Las Vegas. October Sth finds us all together agiin, a sorry-looking crowd, although the camp is a pleasant one. Nearly every one wishes to go by the Salt Lake road to Los Angeles— by far the easiest route, as by going to the northward at the time of reaching the latitude of White Tine it was exi)ected to find mndi frost and snow. The fixed resolution of going back on this line was still persisted in by myself, although it seemed a thing almost impossible, considering the state of the transporta- tion. However, as it was necessary to send to Fort Mojave for supplies, it was thought best to forward a requisition for mules. Four were received, and these, in connection with the six captured from the Mormons, greatly recuperated our worn-out train. While remaining at this camp a reconnaissance was made toward Potosi Mountain, in vicinity of Salt Lake road ; one along the Vegas wash, and another to northwest along the range known as Spring ^Mountain range. I was in charge of the latter, and had left instructions lor the train to meet our small party at Indian Springs. The reconnaissance to the west and south was (conducted in charge of Lieutenant Lockwood as far as the old Potosi, now known as the Yellow Pine District. A description of this district appears in the preliminary report of 1S71. The Indians iu the vicinity of Las A'egas are the Pah-Utes, and vary in numbers from fifty or sixty to one hundred and fifty or two hundred, according as they see fit to live in the valley, or keep to the mountains. Some of these at times make their wick eups about El Dorado Canon, and again a t'cw near Cottonwood Island, on the river ; while the most of these same Indians are found in the mountains of the Spring ^Mountain range, and to the northwest from the Vegas, numbering as high as three or four hundred, all told. As some of these Indians could speak Sho- shone, it was concluded that our guide would be able to gather from some of them information about getting north from Indian Springs. The result proved quite fortunate in giving us a knowledge ot one of the worst forced marches of the trip. During this detour quite an amount of mineral cropping was discovered by some members of the party. The section was designated as the Timber Mountain District in consequence of its close proximity to a large quantity of very fine pine timber, high up on the mountains. Ttie croppings were galena, chloride of silver, and pyrites, with indications of gold. The ledges, iu some instances, were large and well defined. The chances for mining were comparatively good. The develop- ment of mines so far remote must depend upon time and increased facilities of inland transporta- tion. If a railroad is built through Southeastern Nevada, a mineral section will be developed not to be equaled on this coast, throw ing open chances for legitimate mining operations, where capital, used with judgment, will ultimately prove a profitable investment. The building of the 35th parallel road will improve and render quite accessible some of the mining prospects of this latitude. Intelligence received from the camp at Las Vegas, upon our arrival at Indian Springs, told of the desertion of two men and the loss of five of our best animals. This further crippling of our 22 wasted force of animals was so disheartening tliat it appeared almost impossible to attempt tlie trip to the north, as all of them were growing weaker each day from the effect of eating the young salt grass at Las Vegas. Having found some fine bunch-grass about seven miles distant from Indian Spring, orders were sent back for tbe wagons to come on to this point, and they did so, reaching it on the evening of the 22d October. The animals were sent to the mountains to graze, and all our energies gathered for a severe march. To make this, a division into four parties was effected, as at two of the springs it was known there was not enough water for more than six or eight animals. On the evening of the 28th October the first party moved out of camp, each one with a feeling of uncertainty as to the success of getting through with the teams. During the next day the second and third parties left, and on the following day the last. The march for seven or eight miles from Indian Spring was across an alkali flat, which became almost impassable in consequence of a rain that had -commenced some few hours before the starting of the last partj-. Tins party traveled till midnight, when the animals being badly worn out, a halt was made for a few hours. The next day at 1 p. m., Quavtz Spring was reached. Tbe inarch to this point had been across alkali flats, sandy washes, and broken mesas. A more thoroughly horrible road could not be imagined. Resting for about one hour at Quartz Spring — a little spring some one and one-half miles up a canon from the sandy wash in which the road runs, and from which eighteen small backets of water were obtained — it was considered better to ride on to ascertain how good luck the advance parties were having. This was done, and, on the night of the 2d November, Crescent Mill, to the west- ward of Pahranagat, was reached, from which point the advance party had gone on for seven or eight miles to a place where there was more water and grass. The animals of the second and third parties were driven in during the night to get water, having become too much exhausted to drag in the wagons. The distance from Indian Spring to Crescent Mill is nearly ninety miles, and may be looked upon as a desert for the entire distance, as at the two springs the amount of water obtained was not so great as that taken along in casks and kegs. The grades are mostly ascending. The sandy washes and broken character of tbe road render it a very disastrous route for anything like heavy-laden teams. Our wagons could never have gone through except for the dividing up and consequent good management, and not even then, except that from twelve to fifteen hundred pounds of surplus materials were thrown away at Indian Spring. Much credit was due to every one con- nected with the command for the energy and perseverance in this desert trip, which, being the most difiicult of the season, was taken after long and protracted hardships during a summer's stay in the mountains. Finally, on November i, all the train succeeded in making camp at Schafer's Springs ; a weary, dirty-looking set, worse in appearance than emigrants. Considering that Lieutenant Lockwood had not been able to visit the mines in Pahranagat District during his passage to the south, and as we were very near to them while at Crescent Mill, it was considered advisable to make a hasty visit while the teams were in camp, for the purpose of recuperating. This route was through Logan Springs to Silver Canon, where are situated most of the buildings belonging to the Hyko Silver Mining Company, engaged in mining on a large scale. This trip afforded many new hints. This company own nearly all the mines in the district, and leads that stretch over a distance of five miles. Tbe general direction of the most of these is nearly north and south, while many feeders, chimneys, wings, and cross-veins exist that, when developed, run into the mother vein. Tbe Illinois and Indiana were the leads most worked, and those showed well defined walls at a depth of nearly 300 feet. The ore is low grade, but of large amount. Much money has been spent in the enterprise, with, so far, little return. One of tbe finest ten- stamp mills in tbe State has been put up at Hyko. Everything connected with the mining of the ore is conducted in tbe best manner. Tiie expense of hauling the ore to ITyko, a distance of about ten miles, and wood also, brings the price of roasting so high that both together eat np all the profit. An attemi)t was being made to find water in Silver Cafion, and a depth of ninety-seven feet had been reached. A hasty trip was made to Hyko and down Pahranagat Valley toward the lake, as it was desirable to learn more with regard to the valley that, by common consent, is considered as the most fertile 23 ill Southeiu Nevada. Tho little town of Iljko is at tbe head of the valley, practically so, since the Jiead has to be taken at the commencement of arable land, determined, in this case, by the appear- ance of a large spring, tho water of which brings the land into a state fit for cnltivation. There is qnite a strip of line vegetable mold farther up that can never be made nse of for want of irrigation. This is covered with a Inxurient growth of sage-brnsb. It has been noted that, throughout Nevada, wherevi-r the sage brush grows thick and to a large size, the soil underneath is susceptible of the highest cultivation. Unfortunately, however, water is lacking in most of these localities, except at some future day artesian wells develop the existence of large basins of water in the valley depressions. The mesas from tho east side of the I'ahranagat range como down so closely upon the valley that it is rendered quite narrow, but what there is of it is extremely fertile. The length is something over tliirty miles, and width from three-fourths to one and one-half miles. The land-surveys show that there is from liftcen to eighteen thousand acres of laiul subject to cultivation. This is an amount not equalled by any other valley encountered in our travels, except lUiby Valley. There are three largo springs that rise suddenly out of the ground, showing powerful subterranean force. The amouii ts of water are sufficient for the irrigation of all that part of the valley necessary to be irrigated. Some parts saturated continually need no irrigation. Adobes can be made lor buildings. Wood is not plenty, and must come from the neighboring hills. Buuch-grass is found on the foot-hills at the lower end of the valley. The valley-grass in some parts is salt grass; in others, the " blue-joint" appears. Cattle thrive nixm any of it when acclimated. Stopping at several of the ranches, I was much sur- l)rised at .seeing such luxuriance of vegetation ; vegetables were especially large, both in size and production, and excellent in quality. The approximate area of agricultural laud in the valleys traversed by our parties is two hun- dred and tilty square miles, showing tho great scarcity of arable land. It a[)pears certain that lands in Sontheastern Nevada lit for agricultural production will, in time, be valuable. A return to our camp at Schafer's S[>rings is made, ami orders given for the train to move on as far as Quinu Canon, the next stopping-place. Meanwhile a detour is made for the purpose of obtaining topography of and information in regard to the Xm-PAH-UTE MINKS. These are situated in the southern end of a short detached range to the northeast from Tini- Tah-Ute Peak, and to tho west of the head of Tahranagat Valley. Tiieir surface-showing is very tine, and the ores assay very rich. The slight developments made determined nothing as to the surety of the development of a fissure vein or veins. Tbe opportunities for mining and milling are not convenient, but, on the other hand, very difficult. The nearest water is Tick-a-boo Springs, some eight miles distant. The Crescent; Mill, sixteen miles from tho mines, had .just completed arrangements, at that time, to mill their ore. The nearest approach from the vicinity of Wliite Pine is vIk Quinu Canon directly down an alkali valley to the west of the mines, and the distance is approximately one hun- dred and fifty miles. But a slight amount of capital bad been employed up to tbe time of our arrival. The chances seem very favorable in this district for the future. Considerable sulphide of silver is here found, and very little base metal. GR003I DISTRICT. This is situated to tbe south and west from Tim-Pah-Ute Peak, and is one vast deposit of galena, so far as all accounts can be trusted. It was not visited for want of time and means. This district was not being worked by any miners in November last, but I understand that SHice that tinu» parties have goui there to make some developments. The chances for mining are favor- able ; wood and water are sntliciently plenty, and timber enough for all requirements. These galena ores are assuming quite a respectable status among mining schemes, and the future will o\wu to them a histoiy unknown to the pa=liical features, all tlie present exist- ing roads, with tables giving distances between stations, the character of the roads, &c., streams and springs, the spots at which timber exists, the height of noticeable mountain ranges, peaks, &c. The basis of the recounaissance has beeu the actual road traveised, careluily meanderi-d; the distances being taken by odometers that can bedeiiended upon to a vaiiation not exceeding two i)er cent. The positions of the camps, as thus determined, have been moditied from the results of the astronomical work. In many cases, from the tops of prominent i)eaks that luid beeu carefully located, directions were taken to other i>rominent peaks, far in the distance; thus accomplishiug a trigonometric connection. Meteorological observatious have beeu takeu, so as to be used in connect ion with the obtaiu- ing of altitudes, and for such general information as their discussion will develop. At six or seven points these have been taken hourly, and at intervals exteudiug from forty-eight to uinety-six hours. Aneroid barometers, coin|iared each day with cistern barometers, have been used with good success to give data for determining a rough luolile of routes traversed. The natural trend of the mountain chains and valleys is seen to be north and south, varied lu're ami there by a break in the wave-motion of the great force that first created the upheaval — showing at these points lateral (livergen(-es, giving more dillicidt divides from one valley to another, and every variety of hill and ravim^ coutour. This is, perhaps, the most noticeable iu the vicinities of the White Pine and Pahranagat ranges. The valleys traversed were twenty-three iu unmber, as follows: Huntington, Ituby, White Pine, Long, Steptoe, Cave, Desert, Meadow, Spring, Snake, Lake, Pahranagat, Kose, Cedar, Eagle, Dry, Clover, ^Meadow, ^"egas, Coal, Sierra, Railroad, and Alkali. Eighteen mining districts were visited, that lie withiu the ana eiiil)iace(l by our route, as luliows: Cave, White Pine, Ivobinson, Patterson, Sacramento, Snake, Shoshone, Ely, El Dorado, Yellow Pine, Timber .^lountain, Hercules, TimPah-LTte, Pahranagat, Reveille, Hot Creek, Morey, and Grant. Slight glances at their character, and a somewhat general descrijition of each, is giveu in the body of the report. There are really two distinct and somewhat jiarallel lines: One, leaving the railroad near Toaua, bears southward through Ste])toe \'alley, via Cave and Pahrana- gat Valleys, aud thence along the Muddy and Virgin Rivers to the Colorado; theuce by a prospect- ive route till some ]ioint on the military road from Mojave to Presrott is reached. The other, leav- ing the railroad at lOlko, passes west of Hamilton, down Railroad Valley, thence, via Crescent Mill, Indian Springs, Las Vegas, and Hardy ville, to the same military road. If any route is ever used as a through line of travel, either as a railroad ov as a country road, for any heavy transiiortation, it nuist be the one crossing the Colorado at the mouth of the Virgin. The more westerly line is comi)ar,itively a desert all the way to Hardyville, after White I'ine is reached. IJy a reference to the tables, it will appear that the distance from Toano, ou the Central Pacific Railroad, to I'rescott, Ariz., on the natural route of travel, is live hundred aud fifty eight miles; while from Elko, a point farther south on the railroad, by a nu>re westerly route, it is six hundred and forty one miles, giving an advantage of l.j per cent, to the former in distance alone. The other advantages, such as better roads, camps with better accommodations in regard to wood, water, aud grass, and fewer de-sert marches, are superior to the one above mentioned. Provided the road can be made through from the mouth of the Virgin, loaded wagons can reach Camp Toll- tiate from the Ceutral Pacific Railroad in twenty or twenty-one days actual travel ; while, on the other route, it Mould take at least twcnty-niue or thirty days, aud longer intervals at stoppiug- i w 26 places, for rest, ou tbe route. Government stores freighted on such a Hue would cost, delivered at Camp TollGate, 12J cents per pound for the freight, reckoning at the rate of 2J cents per pound for every hundred miles, which would naturally he about the average contract price. At present the contract price for freight via the mouth of the Colorado to Fort Mojave is 3g cents per pound, and from thence by land to Camp TollGate 4J cents, making a total cost of transportation from San Francisco of 8^ cents per pound. It is likely that more than two-thirds of the gross weight of commissary and quartermaster stores that go into Arizona are^ purchased in San Francisco. In addition, then, to the 12^ cents per pound, necessary to pay freight to Camp TollGate, would have to be added the cost of freight- ing to some point on the Central Pacific Eailroad from San Francisco, or an addition of 2i cents, making 1.5 cents per pound total cost. From this it clearly appears that supplies cannot be forwarded ou any such line to posts in Northern Arizona, provided they are purchased in San Francisco. The saving in cost of purchase in Chicago, and subsequent shipping to some point on the Central Pacific Eailroad selected as a depot, are subjects upon which even approximate estimates cannot be made, since the data are not at my disposal. There could be a saving made, after the route is opened, by stopping recruits for Northern Arizona at some point on the railroad, and having them march overland. This would come from the saving iu transportation from said point on the Central Pacific Eailroad to Sau Francisco, and thence to Wilmington, Cal., via steamer-j-an amount for each recruit of about $50, coin. We will suppose that there are four hundred recruits X)er year to be distributed ; this would result in a saving of .$20,000. AGKICULTURAI. LANDS. These are so few in number and limited iu amount, that, although the Euby Valley meridian has been carried to the south as far as the California boundary, still there have been very few places at which sectionizing has yet been called for. Pahranagat Valley has been sectiouized by these parties, and, upon our return to the vicinity of White Pine, they were at work surveying on White Eivcr to tbe east of tlie mountains iu which the Grant district is situated. There is a strip lying contiguous to our easterly line that will call for surveys in the future. These lands will be principally in Steptoe, Spring, Desert, Cedar, Eagle, Eose, IMeadow, and Clover Valleys, also those upon the Muddy. MINERAL-BELTS. Through the section traversed there seem to be four distinct and well-defined miueral-belts, following a general northerly and southerly course along prominent mountain-ranges. Tiie most westerly of these commences on the north with the Diamond range, in which Mineral Hill and Pinto Districts are found. In continuation of this range the Eureka District is encountered — a place of note. Specimens of ore seen at Hamilton were very fine, and the bulk of legitimate reports seem favorable. Going to the south, Morey and Hot Creek are reached, beiug iu the Hot Creek range. Eeveille District is also due south, but in different mountains. Then comes a desert, unexplored strip, unknown to white men, and but little inhabited by Indians. The old Amargosa mines lie in this same southern trend ; also several districts in luyou County, California. Tlie next belt commences with tiie mines in the Humboldt range — the only ones of any interest beiug iu the Cave District facing ou to Euby Valley. Along in order come White Pine, Grant, Pahranagat, Tim-Pah-ute, Groom, Timber Mountain, and Yellow Pine, also the Clark District, to the south of Yellow Pine and in California. Tlie third belt commencies at Egan Canon, and following the rauge of that name, contains the Hercules and Eobinson Districts. Going due south the ranges are not so well defined, and nothing is met with until El Dorado District is reached. It is believed that there are mineral-showings iu the Egan rauge to the northward of Egan Canon, and before the railroad is reached. The fourth belt is found mainly iu the Schell Creek rauge. The first known are those in Nevada District; then comes the Patterson, from whence the mountains bear a little to the east of 27 soiitli, and tlio Ely mines are in a breakotf from this range. To the sontli, and loUowing this trend, no gold or silver mines are known between tbe above point and the Colorado. Copper shows itself at one or two points. Those mines, inelnding the Sacramento, Snake, Shoshone, and Silver Park Districts, that com mence in the Snake range, and follow down along the Fortification Hills, seem to be a short, detached belt, not so far ext(>nded as the others. Above the Nevada, and on the Sehell Creek range, some mineral-districts have been found, but few developments are yet known. It is more than probable that if the general view of the topography north of the railroad is dis cussed, these same belts, or a i>art of them, will be found to extend far to the northward, follnwing the general structure and trend of the noticeable eliains of mountains; while below the Colorado, as soon as better topography is obtained, no doubt their existence ami continuation can be traced. A number of prospectors have at one time and another run over these mountains, only the more energetic of them striking into the rougher parts, where lies the exposure of the mineral. For a long time to come new discoveries will be made, all tending to give a more definite char- acter and continuity of (lirection to the mineral belts described. IISDIANS. The various tribes that were encountered are as follows: SIioshoues,Gosiutes, Snakes, Pahvants, Utes, and Pah-Utes. For their numbers and general information acquired, I am indebted to the guide and interpi'cter. Tlie Slioshones are rpiite numerous, extending over a large section of country to the .south of the Humboldt as far east as the mcriilian of mountains to cast of Kuby Valley, and as far south as 37 degrees 30 minutes of latitude. Small parties of them were seen at Halleck, Elko, l!ul)y Valley, and White Pine. The Gosiutes are farther to the eastward and northeast, and extend as far south as the 3Sth parallel. Again, to the east are the Snakes, closely analogous in disposition, and occupying a narrow longitiulinal slii). The Pahvants are found only after the Utah line is passed, and most of them are to the east and southeast of Preuss Lake — our farthest .station in that direction. The Indians between Snake and :\leadow Valleys are an intermingling of Snakes, or Utes proper, and Pah-Utes, possessing no peculiarities of either, except the treachery of both to a height- ened degree. On our return trip, the Shoshones weie met again in the vicinity of Tim-Pah-Ute Mountains. The number of Indians actually seen or accounted for, after leaving White Pine, was a little less than I.',."'*'*'- 'i''*^ l»>lk of these were not included in the treaty made by Governor Nye in 1S(J3 in K'uby Valley, and have never received any presents. I believe that the greater share of them could be, to a certain extent, domesticated npon one reservation, if projierly controlled. In their present state, si)eaking of those below the o8th degree of latitude, the springing up of an intelligent and warlike chief would band them together, and for a time, if there was no military interference, the lives and ])roperties of the settlers would be in danger. ELEVATIONS A^U PROFILE LINE. The highest ranges of mountains encountered were the Humboldt and Spring Mountain ranges — some of the peaks of the former approaching 13,000, while one of the latter nearly reaches 12,000 feet. Very few of the other noticeable ranges have peaks that show an elevation beyond 8,.">00 feet; yet the marked force of the upheaval is as plainly seen, while the accumulation of power at particular points is wanting. The foot-hills on either side show a marked ditterence, tho.se of the western slope having greater horizontal extension, lesser grades, more grass, wood, and timber. This is due to the tilting of the strata, that, inclining to the westward, present the upturned edges of the rock to the denuding force. The eastern slopes, on the other hand, arc sharp and abrupt, showing sandy washes and rough canons, generally devoid of foliage and vegetation. The raUcij elevation of the Humboldt near Elko is about 5,100 feet. This increases going 28 soiithwanl, uutil tbe divide of the watersheds between the Humboldt or apart of the great interior basin from tbat of the Colorado is reached. In the direct line south, this is in vicinity of White Pine. Prom this point the decrease of elevation is quite gradual until about latitude 38 degrees is reached. From tbis point on to 30 degrees 30 minutes, the fall is more abrupt, while, reaching El Dorado Cauou on the Colorado, we have passed from an elevation of over 6,000 feet to a little less than 000 feet. This fall of itself would necessitate no remarkable grades ; these, where found, are near the break of the general mountain trends, appearing as steep divides between con- tiguous valleys. NAVIGATION OF THE COLORADO. The body of the report presents the idea that this stream may be navigated, to good practical success, as far as the foot of the Grand Canon. The future, for a long number of years, will hardly call for anything of the sort higher than the mouth of the Virgin. It is jiossible that, in case Mormon settlements ai-e pushed into Northern Arizona, the route will be by following the grand wash leading from the vicinity of Saint George to the above-named crossing, or at the mouth of Paria Creek, and that, for supplying points to the southward, ship- ments may come via the river. MEANS OF COMlVIUNinATION. On the easterly line of the reconnaissance the roads were more than a fair average of mountain roads, until the Valley of the Virgin was reached — superior, in many respects, to the variety of roads found in Southern California and Arizona. The approach to the desert on either hand brings with it sandy roads, washes, alkali tlats, and sloughs. On this line a railroad can be successfullj- run to the Colorado Eiver. On the more westerly line such a railroad, if intended to be a through coniinunication to the 35tli parallel road, in event of the latter being built, must join the same at some point west of the Colorado Eiver. On this line the road is generally good till White Pine is reached. The same holds good while traversing Kailroad Valley. Upon leaving tbis valley, the route follows a good road, principally ui)on tlie mesa, till its arrival at Crescent Mill ; tlien comes some of the worst of desert travel. The divide necessary to be crossed by a railroad in going from Elko via White Pine and Eail- road Valley, in order to reach a valley necessary to continue on and come out by Indian Spring and Vegas Valley, will be a very serious one. It will be necessary to cross a continuation of the White Pine range at a point Just below Grant District, or immediately below (^ninn Cafion, either of which shows sharp profiles. In conclusion, I wish to express my thanks to all the members of the expedition lor the able and satisfactory manner in which they have assisted in the iierformance of tlie duties entrusted to my charge. DESCRIPTION OF THE RECONNAISSANCE. The comniencoiiu'iil liMvinj;- been in tlio early pjvrt of June and the termination in the hitter part of November, nearly six months were oeenpied in prcb'minary and actual lield labor, which proved a propitious season, considerinj;' the varied ehanses of temperature in sonic of the more northerly sections near to, an«l north of, the latitude of White Pine. In this vicinity the winters are very severe, especially in localities having' a high altitude, while the summers are delifjhtful, e.\cei>t at some few ])laces at which fogs and winds ])revail. The melting of the snows in spring furnishes water in abundance for the wants of vegetation, and the bunch-grass, so common among the hills, is in its best condition. Our return-trip brought us again to this region prior to the harsh snows and severe temperatures of the coming winter ; while the time at which tlie immediate desert of the ("ohnado was reached (in October) was too late for the glaring and continuous heat of the midsummer days. The greater actual acciuacy of prominent points of the survey is in the area north of White I'ine, since the four positions at which longitude by tclegra|)h was obtained form the ground- work, while the lines that act as bases, going toward the Colorado, are nearly north and south, giving fewer chances for a great error in longitude, where alone errors of any cousiderable mag- nitude arise. The use of the little Held tlieodolite, constructed especially for reconnaissance-work, has proven to be such a great improvement that very little chairge between the positions, as obtained from the results of the astronomical work and the meanders, was necessary to be made. The porta- bility of the instrument ami the accuracy of its readings recommeml it at once as an almost indis. pensable article for exploring parties, and to their use the accuracy of the i)re.sent reconnaissance has been greatly due. The daily march varied Irom ten to thirty miles; the survey parties, in extreme cases, have been managed independently of the main party, falling back upon it for supplies. The traveled roads or trails, carefully meandered and measured by odometers, form the base- line for the triangulated points, the stations never exceeding two or two and a half miles apart, and such distances only occurring in valleys where the road was nearly straigiit. The magnetic bearings were corrected by tiiuling the variation of the needle at every camp. The heights of the |iromineut peaks ha\e generally been determined l)y using angles of eleva- tion taken from |)oints on the base-line, the elevations of which have been determined from baro- metric work. This has been tnodified at points where peaks could be ascended, and here barometric readings have been used, and advantage of such occasions has been taken to triangulate to distant peaks that, at times, could be distinctly deliued against the horizon at a distance of one humlrcd ami tifty miles. Stone monuments have been erected at these stations as reference-jioints for the futnie. The necessities of the march and the desire to travers(! as large an area as possil)lc have caused in some cases a deliciency of topograi)hical detail, while, on the other hand, the general features as regards positions of prominent points, and practical information, are of a sufficiently accurate nature to answer all present wants. PERSONNEL. First Lieut. George M. Wheeler, Corps of Engineers, in charge ; First Lieut. D. W. Lock- wood, Corps of Engineers, executive oflicer ami astronomical assistant; 1'. W. llamel, principal 30 topographer; Carl Easkopfif, assistant topographer; C. E. Fellerer, assistant; Wm. M. Ord, assistant, with the necessary number of guides, packers, laborers, &c., and an escort of two non- commissioned officers and twenty-three enlisted men of Company H, Eighth United States Cavalry. LONGITUDE BY TELEGEAPH. While sextants and chronometers are the most accurate instruments that can be readily trans- ported by parties moving rapidly in the field, and latitude can be determined sufficiently accurate for ordinary practical purposes by their use, the question of longitude is exceedingly uncertain, since so very strange are some of the inaccuracies of rate in the chi'onometers that, no matter how many are used, the results must be accepted with caution. Being well aware of these facts, arrangements were made, while preparing for the season's work, to take advantage of the telegraph, to find out at any moment the local errors of the chronometers upon Sau Francisco time. It was deemed possible to accomplish this at four points, viz, Elko, Peko, Euby, and Hamilton. With the two latter places the lines of the Western Union Telegraph Company connect, and through the kindness of the managers at San Francisco, Messrs. Mumford, Ladd, and Yountz, i)ermission was granted for the use of their lines, and a letter of instructions to their agents in Euby Valley and Hamilton was furnished ; besides, they very kindly arranged,through Mr. Yaudenberg, at Sac- ramento, the superintendent of the lines of the Central Pacific Eailroad, to connect, so that a com- plete circuit should exist between San Francisco and points on the Central Pacific Eailroad, near Camp Hiilleck. Prof. George Davidson, United States Coast Survey, whose kindness in this matter is worthy of many thanks, offered to take charge of the signals at Sau Francisco, but he was obliged to start on his trip to the North to observe during the solar eclipse. Prior to our reaching Camp Halleck, Maj. H. M. Eobert, Corps of Engineers, having been spoken to upon this matter, his co operation was at once enlisted, and, out of the five times that telegraphing was done, he was at the key during four of them; the other, being the one at Elko, was superintended through the kindness of Capt. H. J. Eogers, United States Coast Survey. The scheme for attaining accuracy in the recording of the signals was furnished by Professor Davidson, of the Coast Survey, a copy of which is herewith given. PROGKAMME TOR DETERMINATION OF DIFFERENCE OF LONGITUDE BY TELEGRAPH BETWEEN SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., AND STATIONS IN NEVADA— PROPOSED BY PROF. GEORGE DAVIDSON, UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. Lieutenant Wheeler to telegraph to San Francisco immediately upon Lis arrival at any station, and say when he will be ready to receive signals. To receive them he will have his chronometer ready at the telegraph-office. When Professor Davidson or Major Eobert is ready, he will send message to Elko, or the station, to that effect, and, after preliminaries, for a few minutes will carry out the following programme: Professor Da- vidson or INfajor Eobert : Battle, rattle, rattle ; interval of fifteen seconds ; then transmit one signal of which Lieutenant Wheeler must note the time by his chronometer; a second signal fifteen .seconds later, and so on, one signal every fifteen seconds for three minutes, then three rattles to close. Then Lieutenant Wheeler will send to Professor Davidson or Jlajor Eobert a similar set of sigiuils at given times, of fifteen seconds apart, for three minutes by his chronometer. Professor Davidson or Major Eobert will then send San Francisco time of his first and last sigual, also the error of his chronometer on San Francisco time. Lieutenant Wheeler will send his chronometer time of first and last signals and the error of his chronometer, if obtained ; if not known, then he will transmit it by rail as soon as ascertained. When Lieutenant Wheeler returns from his trip this programme can be repeated previous to his return to-San Francisco. The above scheme has been carried out, and the following tables show the details ot the results : 31 Signals for loHsitiide by telegraph between Peko, A'ew., and San Fiaueuco, Cal., June 30, 18C9— 9.30 to 10.20 j;. hi. 18B9. June 30 Station. Peko, Nev . S = ''■ SMS a i^ it <- ' 2 „ '^ 9 h. m. s. 10 32 0. .2p=i 10 35 0. 7/. m. «. 10 31 30.2 10 31 51.3 33 06. 4 32 21.3 32 3C. 9 32 ol. 2 33 06. 1 .13 21. 2 33 36. 3 .13 51. 1 34 06. 1 34 21.2 10 34 36. 2 Mean. Remarks. «. 23.8 23.7 23.6 23.7 23.8 23.8 23.0 23.8 23.7 23.9 23.9 23.8 23.8 23.8 Tlirough repeaters at Wartsworth, Nev. Eittiniated delay tliioujjh one set of repeateis -- 0".04. Operator at Peko, Mr. Wooil ; operator at San Francisco, Major Robert, IT. S. Enjiineers, uu«l nnkuown. Mayor Robert's time slow of San Francisco mean time at time of observation = 24".0. 23". 8 + 24". 5 = 48" .3 chronometer 12^3 slow on San Francisco nie.in time. 1869. Joue 30 '£ San Francisco San Francisco Peko, Nev . . . A. m. a. ID 33 30.00 10 33 6. 20 a li. in. 8. +0 24. 50 +0 28 25. 59 /{. in. 8. 10 33 54. 50 11 1 31.79 £ i A h. m. 8. 2T 37. 29 i -0. 04 Longitude of San Francisco - Correction of chronometer for midnight of June 30, +28" 25'.49 ; rate, 2«.40 gaining per day Final difference of longitude for Peko, Nev Or Means. 7 42 0. 96 U5<'30'14".50 q9 Siyiiah for longitude hij telcgraj'h between Elko, Stv., and Sun Fruncisco, Cat., July 1, 1869. Date. Station. Time of transmitlal, by Major Kobert's chronometer. Time of receivnl, by Lieutenant Wheel- er's chronometer. s Remarks. 1869. /(. m. fi. h. m. s. s. July 1 Elko Nev 9 57 00, 9 56 37. 1 22.9 Through repeater at Wadsworth, Xev. Operators at San Francisco, Captain Kodgera, 52.1 22.9 .')7 7.1 22.85 United States Coast Survey, and Mr. Ladd, Sec- 22.15 22.9 retary "Western Union Telegraph Company ; at 37. 1 22.9 Elko, Messrs. Irwin and Stewart. 52.1 22.9 22".95-H25".3=48".25, chronometer 12^3 slow on 58 7.1 S3. 9 San Francisco mean time. 22.2 22.9 Rate during interval, +0".05; not entirely to be ' 37.1 22.9 depended upon, as the signals at Peko were 52.1 22.9 neither as pet feet nor as satisfactory as at Elko. 10 0.0 59 37. 1 Mean. 22. 9 22. 9 Signal. Lieutenant ■Wheeler. Captain Kodgers. h. m. s. h. til. s. s. First 10 12 15 10 12 38 23.0 Last 10 15 15 10 15 38 23.0 , Date. 1 a 1 a a £0 i c a .« s OQ p o CD a o u O O a H Corrected time. p I (0 2 t> s 3 O Means. 1869. h. m. s. h. m. s. h. m. s. k. m. s. h. ?n. 5. July 1 Sau Francisco. .San Francisco - 58 30. 00 + 25. 30 9 58 55. 30 Elko 9 58 7. 10 + n 27 24. 01 10 25 31. 11 Elko, Nov San Francisco. 10 14 8.00 +0 25. 30 10 14 33. 30 T^a-o. Ni^r Ell io 10 13 45 00 1 n 27 23. 98 in .11 R Q.^ I'i fifl 26 35. 75 Loiigitade of San Francis Correction of chrouomete 8 9 38. 23 p for midnight of July 3, +27" 21'.34 ; rate per day, 2*.50 gaining ; therefore the above corrections. Final difference of longitu deof Elko.Nev 7 43 2. 48 Or n5O45'37".20 33 Signals for Imgitude by teltgraph between Buby, Nev., and San Francisco, Cal, July 9, 1869. __. _i >i." "3 » ti •= ti *i ® © *a ^ *3 .—" o Date. Station. Time of trnnsrai by Lieut. AVI er's cbroDome Time of receiva Major Kob chronometer. S 5 Bemarks. 1869. h, m. t. h. m. 1. (. July 9 Ruby, Nev 10 28 45 10 29 02. 8 017.8 Operator at Rnby, Mr. Anderson. Operator at San Francisco, Miyor 10 89 00 Robert and 10 29 15 Mr. Sawyer. 10 29 30 Lieotenant AVLoeler's chronometer 1283, slow on 10 29 45 San Francisco mean time, 49 seconds. 10 30 00 10 30 IS 10 30 30 10 30 45 10 31 00 10 31 15 10 31 30 10 31 45 10 32 02. e Mean. 017.8 17.9 1 1 ■a o B m . to Q g g X -3 a O — 33 o ® Date. i a 1 o 3 Means. m -B 9 s •a 1 i = 6 5 a 3 3 p 1869. h. m. «. h. m. s. A. m. 3. h. m. t. «. h. m. 8. Jnly 9 Ruby. Nev Rnby, Nev 10 30 15. 00 + 28 22.76 10 58 37. 76 Ruby, Xev San Francisco. 10 30 35. 80 +0 31.20 10 31 4. 00 27 33. 76 0.04 27 33. 78 Longitndc of San PraDcisco 8 9 3&23 Correction of chroDometer for midnight of Jnly 9, +23" 22».6€; rate, 2».40 gaining per day. Final difference of longitude for Ruby, Nev 7 42 4. 45 Or 115° 31' 6".75 5 W 34 Signals/or longitude by telegraph ielween Hamilton, Nev., and San Francisco, Col., November 19, 1869. Date. Station. Time of transmittal, by Major Robert's chronometer. Time of receival, by LieutenantWboel- er'a chronometer. 1 (3 Hemarks. 1869. h. m. 8. h. m. «. s. Nov. 19 5 12 9 15 38. 1 53.0 Operators at Hamilton, Nev., Messrs. IngaUs and Henderson ; at San Francisco, Miijor Eobert 16 08. 1 and . 23.1 Chronometer No. 1283, at 10 p. m.. according to 38.1 Major Eobert's signals, = 6» 20°.9 according to 53.1 Lieutenant Wheeler's signals, = 6 " 20°.5 ; mean 17 08. 1 error (fast) = 6» 20°.7. 23.0 37.9 52.9 18 08. 23.1 5 15 0« 9 18 38. 1 4 03. 38 Signals. Transmitted by Lieuten- ant Wheeler. Keceived by Mjyor Eob ert. Differ- ence. h. tn. s. h. m. s. h. m. s. First 9 29 30 9 32 30 5 25 52. 3 5 28 52. 3 4 03 37. 7 Last Date. 1 a % s a sue in 1 1 . § t .'S s CO o aa 1 1 a .1 o i 1 P a % Q Means. 1869. h. tn. $. h. m. s. k. m. s. h. m. s. h. m. 9. Nov. 19 San Francisco. .San Francisco. 9 13 30. 00 -0 2 41.54 9 10 48. 46 San Francisco Hamilton 9 17 8.05 +0 20 59. 55 9 38 7. 60 27 19. 14 Hamilton San Francisco. 9 27 22.30 -0 2 41. 54 9 24 20. 76 Hamilton Hamilton 9 31 0.00 4 20 59. 52 9 51 59. 52 18.76 27 18. 95 Longitude of San Francisco 8 9 38 '^3 There are made four sets of observations for time by equal altitudes, giving a mean correction for the chronometer of 20" 3M9 slow at 11-.7 into noon. This observation ivas made at Monte Christo Mills on the 18th of November The chronometer waa then carried over to JTamilton for exchange, conse- quently the difference of longitude between San Francisco and Monte Christo Mills is obtained. The rate of the chronometer was at this time 2'.57 per day, gives the corrections for the chronometer as used above. Final diflerence of longitude for camp near Monte Christo Mills 7 42 19. 28 Or U5<=34'49".20 It may be considered as a distinctive feature of the present reconnaissance that, althongli the instruments for taking astronomical observations have been limited to sextants and chronometers, yet, by the use of the telegraph, results have been attained that compare favorably with those that would be expected from a more extended series of observations with more perfect astronomical instruments, and opportunity afforded for determining with more certainty the rate of the chro- nometers upon which the lesser or greater accuracy of the approximate longitudes to the south- ward depend. 35 SEXTANT ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS. Latitude oli.scM-vatioii.s weiv made at most of the cainp.s wIhmh! the party lemaiiied for a siiifjle uiglit by inean.s of the sextant; tlie deteriniiiatioii for time depemliii^' iii>oii .siii^^le altitude ob.serva- tions of the stars or equal altitudes of the suu, including several points at which equal altitudes of star.s were also obtained. For latitude, either ])olaris was ob.scrved and al.'^o a soutii star, or circum- meridian altitudes of the suu with a south star or stars. The method emphn erl in reduction is giveu in these tables, special blank forms having been prepared for the use of the expeditiou. The accuracy of these ob.servations is proven to be very great, aud the results compare not unfavorably with those obtained by the use of the zenith telescope. For illustration, the following single results for latitude at a given point, determined during different days, are submitted : Camp 7, {near Camp Ruby.) OBSEiiVKn, Lieutenant Wueklkk. Date. Latitude N. Method employed. July 9-10, 1869 July 11, 1869 O ' " •10 03 55.60 46.42 45.99 42 27 47.01 Polaris. Polaris. Cirrmn-uicridian altitudes. Circum-meridian altitudes. Polaris. Jnlyll 1869 July 12, 1869 July 12, 1869 Mean latitude, 40o 03' 47".46 ± 1".45. INDIANS. All the Indians through Southern Nevada may be termed "Mountain Indians," in contradis- tinction to those that inhabit the valleys or plains, or live along the ocean-.shore. The habits, dispositions, aud mental characteristics of all the Indians that I have encountered on the racific Slope seem to be governed largely by the topography of the country and the principal articles used as food, the latter undoubtedly liaving the greater eflect. The mountain Indians are more hardy, intelligent, shrewd, and cunning, generally going into the valleys to plant and harvest, returning to their mountain-retreats after gathering their slender crops. They make up the deficit in food from nuts and acorns, rarely eating roots. The well-kuown Digger Indians of the California valleys formerly subsisted in the main upon roots aud plants, and to them pine-nuts aud acorns were a great luxury. They were aud are a filthy, .sliiggishiniiided, di-sgusting race. Certain other shore Indians, closely allied in general worthlessness of character to the Diggers, subsist upon fish and any refuse or offal found along the shore, together with sea- weed and various .searoots and plants. They inhabit the northern coasts of California ai'd Oregon. The mountain Indians of Nevada aud Idaho, as a general rule, have been endowed by nature with more of the civilized instincts than those found below the Colorado River; and, in fact, it is not unlikely that a provisional latitudinal distinction, modified by the form and extent of the drainage basins, may be made general in its ai>plication to all tribes west of the Rocky Mountains. With the development and po|»ulation of countries like Arizona, the Indian will become im- pressed with the fact that warlike aggression or resistance will be futile ; and the submissive Apache of a few years hence will be found to differ but little from the tame Ute and Pah-Ute of to- day. Our guide and interpreter, Henry Butterfield, a thorough master of the Shoshone and Gosiute tongues, succeeded in gaining a pretty accurate census of the "wickeups" at which the Indians were found at home. His estimate of those enumerated was very nearly two thousand five hun- derd ; aud it is not unsafe to suppose that at least this number are permanent inhabitants of the area surveyed. 36 THE SHOSHONES. This tribe has rang:ecl alonn; the Huiuboklt for years, branching out here and there to the south and east, and at other points to the north and west, but looking to the valley of the Humboldt as their base. They are quite numerous, and consist of as many as 5,000, all told. Their headquar- ters is near Winnemucca, named after their old chief, still living. But few of these fellows were seen. Their habits alid appearance are well known, as they can be noticed at any station along the railroad, from Humboldt Wells to Wadsworth. They extend as far to the south as Tim-pah- ute Mountain, and to the east as Ruby Valley. A party of some two hundred Indians, under the leadershii) of a chief named Blackhawk, were tilling the land in Snake Valley, and professed to be Snakes or Shoshones ; wished to be peaceable, and to receive agricultural implements. The chief, thinking lie might effect something of this sort, returned with our party to the camp in Cave Val- ley, and then went into Hamilton to see the superintendent of Indian affairs. GOSIUTES. This is not a numerous tribe, consisting of not more than 400, with headquarters at Deep Creek. They range no farther to the south than 38° latitude, nor to the east thaii Sevier Lake Desert, contining themselves mainly to the mountains bordering o i Spring, Steptoe, Sierra, and Gosiute Valleys. They differ in no material way from the Shoshones, the language being similar, and habits and dispositions the same, always having lived at peace with each other. Our tirst guide, Pogo, was a young buck taken from this tribe, who accompanied us as far as Patterson District. He was lazy and good-natured, possessed of more than ordinary Indiau intelli- gence, and perfectly happy while with us, since he ^\as all the time well supplied with provisions. The Indian names of the different peaks, ranges, and natural objects have been changed when possible to their English signification, since few of the former possess a claim even to euphony. Big Horse is the name of the chief of the Gosiutes, and he, with quite a baud, was at Deep Creek, to the north of the Snake range, and above our line of travel. Freshly deserted Indian camps showed that they had fled at our approach, and we were told by white settlers that they held the soldiers in the greatest awe and reverence. THE PAHVANTS are quite a numerous tribe, living entirely in Utah, and to the south and east of the Sevier Lake Desert. Cutting across the Mormon settlements, in a northeasterly direction, we did not come immediately in contact with any of their wick-e-ups, but our guide, Adabe, who went with us from Cave Valley to Preuss Valley and return, sighted the smoke of some of their camps, and paid them a visit on our behalf. They did not seem desirous of a close acquaintance with the soldiers. Their chief, Blackhawk, is a shrewd and warlike old fellow, and when the Mormons will not give him and his band all the meat that they wish, he immediately retires to the hills, declares war, and levies contributions. I am told that in physical structure they are superior to most of the Indians of the great interior basin, approaching the athletic qualities of the Mojaves. It is likely that this Statement should be taken with some caution. Their language is not understood bj-, either the Snakes, Shoshones, or Gosiutes, the latter supposed to be branches of the great Snake tribe. t UTES OR PIEDES. The [Jtes, Utahs, or Piedes, as they have sometimes been called, are a roving, treacherous Indian. They are found from Pahranagat Valley to the mouth of the Virgin River as the most westerly line of their country, extending to the north and east along the different lines of Mormon settlements as high up as 38° north latitude, thence stretching out to the eastward as far as the Grand River, and bounded on the south and east by the Colorado proper. Their number, all told, is variously estimated from three to five thousand; some six or seven hundred were found along our route. 37 An old fellow by the name of Toshob was chief of these bands on the Muddy ; a wily, treacher- ous, cold-blooded old scamp, who was well known to have been the leader of the Indians that were engaj^ed in the " Mountain ^Icadow massacre," that horrible murder of helidess cmifjrants, both male and female, old and young. The details of this dreadful occurrence were gleaned here and there, and, when fully known, for all coming history will stand out as one of the most disgusting pictures of human baseness. The Utes or Tiedos cultivate the soil, are at war with no particular tribe, and, excepting the fact that they are great thieves, and treacherous to a heightened degree, even for an Indian, do not differ greatly from others of these mountain tribes. They have no hesitation to rob, plunder, and mur- der, provided tliey are not found out, while their sagacity teaches them the advantages to l)e gained from the reputation of "good Indians." They have a most wonderful antipathy against Germans, whom they can tell at a glance, and no one of this nationality can get past their habitations without a good chance of losing everything he has in the way of jjersonal effects. I know of no manner in which to explain the above except that this tribe has been for long years at enmity with the Nava- joes, who have been in the habit of crossing the Colorado and making inroads upon the Utes and Piedes, taking their stock, squaws, or anything else, and then beating a hasty retreat. It is a legend among these Indians that the Navajoos at one time captured a large German emigrant- train, killing all the men and taking the women to their villages, and thereby created a changed nice of bad blood, they say ; and possibly in their own minds they thiuk that all their troubles with the Nava.joes have arisen in cons('(iu('nce. Tliese Utes or Piedes had killed two men in a canon lead- ing into one that we traversed from ^leadow X'alley to the Muddy settlements. These were travel- ers with good horses. The Indians who were supposed to have been concerned had left their wick- e-ups and lied. PAH-UTES. The Pah-Utes, or Water- Utes, are a tribe not differing in any marked way from the Utes, and, like them, of strong physical build, a lively, bright, black eye, rather thiu front face and more aqui- line contour, bespeaking acuter mental characteristics than most of the Indians of the great mountain basin. Their eastern limit is the western one of the Utes or Piedes; the Colorado bounds them on the south, and to the north and west, the Great Death Valley of Southwestern Nevada, that almost extends to and joins Death Valley proper in California. We found their wick-e-up at Las Vegas Ranch, at various poiuts on the S[)ring Mountain r.mge, and some few at EldoraIILTON, by far the largest place in size, had something like two or three thousand inhabitants in July, while in November 1,200 would have included them all. This was the principal point for the mines in the White Pine District. Here the greater part of the business was done, and the merchants and traders had collected, while the principal number of the mills at this period were in the vicinity. Of course whisky-mills, with faro-banks adjoining, were plenty, while alternately there appeared either a clothing or a grocery store. Such places become overrun with tiie surplus population, of a rather questionable grade, of all the worn-out mining camps for a radius of hun- dreds of miles. This place boasted a passably good stone court-house and a fine stone building in which were the offices of Wells, Fargo & Co., and the Bank of California. One notices no such thing as a church, TEEASURE CITY. Another settlement near the mines on Treasure Hill, consisting of one street, at an altitude of 9,000 feet, winding along the hills, was filled with miners and offices and residences of owners of mining and mill property. In November, the greater share of the inhabitants had removed to either Hamilton or Shermantown, to save fuel for the winter, so that less than five hundred remained, while in July more than one thousand persons resided in this uninviting locality. SHERMANTOWN, the site of several mills engaged in reducing the White Pine ores, was a place of at least one thousand five hundred souls upon our first visit. It is situated in a tortuous ravine, between the White Pine range proper and Treasure Hill, quite secluded from the Pogonips of this section, and near water, a thing not to bo found upon Treasure Hill. These three places, numbering between four and five thousand souls, had all sprung np with the development of the White Pine mines, and npon their future depends also that of the places named, which must build up or become abandoned according as the mines can or cannot support a greater or less number of people. ELKO, at present a small station on the Central Pacific Railroad, grew first largely into importance from the fact of its being selected as the point of departure for the White Pine mines late in the fall of 1SC8. A thriving place ; grew rapidly into existence along the banks of the Humboldt, and in the census of 1S70 has been found to number 3,447 inhabitants. The declining prospects of White Pine in the fall and winter of 1869-'70 soon devtdoped the fact that Elko had exceeded the size necessary for a shipping-point ; therefore stagnation of busi- ness in all its branches followed, in part alleviated by the discovery of Cope District, to the north- ward and near the Idaho line, through which the stage-line to Silver City and points in Idaho, which had heretofore left the railroad at Winnemucca, was transferred. The future of the place seems, now that it has been made a county-town, certain. 44 TOANO. This place is at the terminus of one of the sections of the Central Pacific Railroad, and beyond this had no importance up to the spring of 1870, when it was used as the point of departure for heavy freighting in the direction of the Meadow Valley mines. It has been taken as the point of departure for a proposed railroad-route to the Colorado Kiver, on the maps of the reconnaissance, since the divides between the valleys leading to the southward have more gradual slopes than upon any line that can be selected between the 114th and 116th meridian of longitude. It has been spoken of as a new point from which a stage-line can be started to Idaho and Montana. EXJBY STATION. For a long time a station on the old overland stage-road ; and later, a point from which the telegraph-line starts to White Pine. The whole affair consists of one store, a telegraph-house, and two residences, situated three miles from the military camp, since abandoned, of the same name. The settlers of the valley have received their mail through this point until the railroad was com- pleted, since which time it is believed that the station has been discontinued altogether. MINERAL, CITT. A small mining camp in the gorge leading through the Egau range, in and around which are found the mines constituting the Eobinson District. Its population comprised about fifty souls, with some chance of an increase consequent upon the successful development of the mines. Some ten or twelve buildings had been erected, the greater number being stores, a post-offlce, and restaurants. The chance for building-sites is quite limited, and in case of large results from these mines the population must crowd out to the east in Steptoe Valley, along Murray's Creek. MONTEZUMA AND SPRINGVILLE. Small camps that have sprung up in conjunction with the mines of the Patterson District and on either side of the pass through the Schell Creek range at this place. Several decent wooden buildiugs have been built from lumber obtained from Bensou's Creek, some eight or ten miles to the north, and on the eastern slope of the range. Water is found only on the eastern side, about Springville, and, unfortunately, the principal locations, are on the western slope of the divide. These mines have been but little worked, as apparently any capitalists who may have made examinations are doubtful as to the chances for large and permanent operations. There is cer- tainly a large surface-showing of ore, and if any of the veins prove at all permanent, there ought to be parties ready to take hold of these mines. HYKO. A mining town at the head of Pahranagat Valley, and the county-seat of Lincoln County. Its population varies with the local mining excitements of the couutry, and according to the amount of developments in operation by the Hyko Silver-Mining Company— in August, 1869, some four or five thousand souls altogether, including the company's employes in the mines in and around Great Quartz Mountain. There is one of the finest ten-stamp mills that I have seen in the State on the mesa edge at the western end of the town, most admirably adapted for the milling of ores, since advantage has been taken of the natural declivity of the site for the transferring always from higher to lower level, in the most convenient manner, during the various milling processes. Formerly there were quite a number of Mormons at this settlement, many of whom have gone to other sections, leaving but a few of their persuasion. A fine spring, of about 600 inches flow, rises at the northeastern end of the town, and is known as Hyko Spring, furnishing water for town use and milling purposes. There is water enough for any number of mills that may ever be required, and room enough for a city of any magnitude in this vicinity ; and, without doubt, the whole of Pahranagat Valley will some day be thickly settled, and that, in connection with con- tinued milling operations of magnitude, will make the necessity for quite a large mountain city. 45 PIOCHE, tlie name of the principal ininiug town in the Ely District, where are found what are known as the Meadow Valley mines, amony which tlie one called the " Pioche " seems to be the mother vein. The fjroat richness of this district since the summer of ISO!) has caused to grow here a town of considerable size. The mill of the Meadow Valley Company is situate in a little valley to the east- ward, called Dry Valley, around which has sprung up a small settlement called Lyonsville, after the present president of the company. LAS VEGAS EAUCn. This is situated on a little oasis in the desert of Vegas Valley, and consists of about three or four hundred acres of arable laud that can be irrigated from the Vegas Springs. An area of a radius of fifty miles, having this point as a center, embraces nothing but desert; consequently, this is a haven for all travelers, north and south, through this section of country. Tlie old emigrant- road to Salt Lake, and the one lately traveled from White Pine to Arizona, here cross each other. EL DORADO CANON. By this, reference is made to the property of the mining company of this district, who have a ten-stamp mill on the river at the mouth of the canon, and the necessary dwellings and store-houses for their milling operations. This section is a desert and sterile one. Small patches of bunch- grass arc found in the mountains ; hay in large quantities has to be obtained at Cottonwood Ishmd, some forty-five miles below, and such barley as cannot be obtained at Vegas ranch must come via the river. Wood in small quantities can be obtained from the drift-wood along the river. All these difficulties have tended to retard the development of these mines, one of which, the Techatticup, having been opened, proves to be a regular fissure-vein. CALLVILLE. This was originally started as a little Mormon landing, from whence stores, coming via the river, were to be shipi)ed in among the settlements of Southern Utah. Quite a large store-house and several shanties that had been erected were all abandoned at the date of our arrival, making the place look, if possible, more desolate than nature had intended. There can be no possible reason in the future for reviving this place, since it cannot be a point of dei)arture or supply for any back country, neither can a crossing to the southward bematle; therefore, whenever a stray traveler, by accident, shall reach these solitudes, his inquiry for inhab- itants will be answered by echoes from the deserted store-house and its surrounding shanties. MOEMON SETTLEMENTS. nOMEE. This is one of the later and more outer settlements, of only about two years' standing, consist- ng of twenty to twenty-five families, and from one hundred to one hundred and twenty-five per- sons, all told. This, being a small settlement, had for its ruler a functionary known as a superintendent, who acts as judge and managing-man. The larger settlements have a bishop, while in addition, at county-seats, are found other bishops, higher in church authority, who are associate elders, and have a voice in the high council at Salt Lake City. The scheme seems to be to manage the minds of the many by having some one in their midst of sufficient intellect to control, while the others are rude, untaught, with but little prospective hope of improvement. I understand, however, that schools are introduced at the more prominent settlements. The dwellings at Homer all stand upon one wide street, closed at the ends, making a rectan- gular-shaped fort, so built for protection against the Indians. The amount of land is parceled out to the families in lots from 7J to 25 acres, the latter amount being considered quite excessive. 46 The settlers here, having seen so little of the world, had not become coatamiaated by the ungovernable thirst to gain money from the Gentiles that is found among the many. A call -was made upon the superintendent, a Mr. Shakespeare, a decent, provincial-looking man, who was nob unwilling to give information, but who seemed to have but little to give. They were nearly all alike at this place, having the appearance such as one might expect to meet among some of the lower classes in Holland, Norway, some parts of Germany, and Wales. At the time of our coming all the young men were at muster, which is held twice each year, and every available able-bodied man is obliged to attend. Besides the ordinary militia, there is said to exist a secret compact, known as the " Nauvoo Legion." EAGLE VALLEY. This is a beautiful little valley, closely encircled by the mountains, and settled nearly three years since. Here, again, the inhabitants build their rude log houses in " fort" shape. Our day's march carried us to Rose Valley, some three or four miles beyond, and only a short stay was made. This place, larger in size, attains to the dignity of having a bishop, who has in his trust the forty or fifty families constituting the settlement. They will number at least two hundred souls, and seem a quiet, inoffensive set, but looking, however, upon the soldiers with a jealous eye, and, with a true Mormon proclivity, where it could be done, taking advantage of the desire for the purchase of delicacies on the march in the way of butter, eggs, and vegetables, charging much more than their value. This custom we found in its most absolute perfection among some of the lower settlements, where Gentiles were more frequently in the habit of passing through. Doctors and lawyers are unknown in these remote settlements ; they themselves speak of this as true for all of them — scarcely anybody sick, but few die, aud> the laws of the church exist for them as the law of the land. In Rose and Dry Valleys some very poor, miserable families were found ranching ; it was their expectation that their membe'rs would be increased from the interior. In the latter place a twenty- stamp mill, the property of the Meadow Valley Mining Company, and known as the Lyons mill, has been erected. Ore from the Pioche mines is being crushed there, with fine results. PANACCA. The settlement in Meadow Valley is considerably larger than the others mentioned, and was established in 186i or 1865. They have laid off the town in streets, and some very fair wooden and adobe houses have been built. Among the best of them is a tithing-house, made for the recep- tion of one-tenth of all that is produced, and given as a tithing unto the Lord. In these outer places that have been settled for a number of years, many trees have been planted, which here had grown to a respectable size. "Water running through the streets in open ditches, irrigates them so that they maintain a luxuriant growth. The water here is of the same nature as that found in Pahranagat Valley, the spring at the head of the town being of about the same size as Crystal Spring, in Pahranagat Valley. These waters are doubtless from the same source, and all find their way into the Colorado after joining forces along the beds of the Muddy and Virgin Rivers. The town will number about four hundred people, some few of whom are Gentiles. CLOTEE VALLEY contains some eight or ten families and from fifty to seventy-five people. Its waters flow to the southwest and join Meadow Creek, that, farther on, seeks an underground channel to the Muddy. While following down a canon leading from this valley and coming in below Meadow Valley Caiion, there wiis considerable pioneering to do ; the animals were getting badly worn out, and the grain was exhausted and grass becoming very scarce. It was therefore necessary to push on ahead sev- enty-five miles to one of the lower settlements, to purchase gi'ain and have it freighted to the train. 47 one of the settlements oa the Upper Muddy, consisting of fifty; or sixty families, and from two hundred and fifty to three hundred people. A part of these go north during the summers, which are intensely hot in this section. At the time of our coming, wheat could be purchased at 5 cents per pound ; previous to our departure it was valued at 12i cents, while all the time the relation between supply and demand was the same. One man at this place was the happy possessor of five wives, two of them being at a northern settlement, and twenty-two children of various descriptions and sizes; these were all being reared unwashed, unkempt, and untaught. SAINT JOSEPH, situated midway between West Toint and where the Muddy reaches the Virgin, is a much larger place, and numbers some five hundred or six hundred people, when all are at homo from the northern country. This place has a post-office regularly established. A nephew of Brigham Young lives here, vested with some of the superior functions of church ofiQce. SAINT THOMAS, is situated at the confluence of the Muddy with the Virgin ; rather a fine-looking place, well laid out, with shade-trees along the streets. Its inhabitants number as high as three hundred or four hundred altogether, but of the same moving character as the two settlements above named. The bishop at this place, and another person, ex-member of the Arizona legislature, received us with pleasant courtesy. Near this place au Indian chief named Toshob has his wick-e-ups. lie is known to have been engaged with some of his Indians in the Mountain Meadow massacre, while the leader of the same was reported to be in a small place called Harmony, some seventy- five miles to the northeast, in a state bordering on insanity from remorse for his actions at that time. No one can judge of the revolting character of that affair who has not been near the ground to learn of the details of the cold-blooded murder of men, women, and children. Thus it will appear that the late reconnaissance has developed the fact that there are seven Mormon settlements, numbering very neai'ly two thousand inhabitants, that heretofore have been supposed, certainly or uncertainly, to be in Utah, that lie beyond a doubt within the domain of Nevada. So far they have paid taxes in, and conformed to the laws of, Utah. Some action should now be taken clearly defining their status aud place the jurisdiction of both the State and Territory upon proper ground. That part of Arizona to the north and west of the Colorado Kiver that was ceded by act of Congress of 1806 to Nevada, has never been legally accepted by the State, since their constitution prohibits the accession of territory in this direction, thereby rendering the action of the State officials invalid and liable to be protested iu case of attempting to execute their statutes. The Mormons are prospecting for further lands contiguous to their outer settlements, to be used as asylums for their constantly thickening popuhition, and it is but a short time ago that a call was made for one thousand families to go into Northern Arizona. ODOMETER MEASUEEMENTS. To show how far these may be depended upon in the field over the variety of roads encoun- tered in a mountain region, several rigid tests were made at a number of points, of which the fol- lowing is a description. The gait has always been kept at a walk. ELKO. 1. Wheels two days traveled since greased ; over one measured mile on level road, slightly sandy. No. 1 odometer on near wheel. First reading 3,8-12 Second reading . . 4, 242 Diflference = 400 = number of revolutions. Note. — The Mormon settlers have been withdrawn from the valley of the MiiiUly, and the West Point, Saint Joseph, and Saint Thomas settlements abandoned. An Indian reservation including all of these localities has since been set aside by the Government. 48 2. Over one-half measured mile, on rolling ground, good road. Fo. 1 odometer on near wheel. First reading 4, 976 Second reading. . 5, 177 Difference = 201 = number of revolutions. Average, 401 revolutions. Near wheel, 13' 2".208 in circumference; 400.48 revolutions per mile. Off wheel, 13' 2".063 in circumference ; 400.85 revolutions per mile. CAMP RUBY. Wheels one day's travel since greased, over one measured mile, on good, hard, level road. No. 1 odometer on near wheel. First reading 6,392 Second reading. . 6, 791 Difference = 399 = number of revolutions. No. 2 odometer on near wheel. First reading 6, 536 Second reading.. 7,931 No. 2 odometer on off wheel. First reading ... 7, 133 Second reading. 7,533 Difference = 400 = number of revolutions. No. 1 odometer on off wheel. First reading... 6,793 Second reading. 7,192 Difference=395 = number of revolutions Average, 398.25. Wheels eased of friction from wooden axle ; freshly greased Difference = 399 = number of revolutions. 1. Oue measured mile through sage-brush. No. 2 odometer on near wheel. First reading .... 8, 140 Second reading. . 8, 542 No. 1 odometer on off wheel. First reading. . . 7, 362 Second reading. 7, 763 DiSereuce = 402=number of revolutions. Difference = 401 Average, 401.5 revolutions. 2. One measured mile, good, hard, level road. : number of revolutions. No. 2 odometer on near wheel. First reading 7, 766 Second reading. . 8, 166 Difference = 400=number of revolutions. No. 1 odometer on oft" wheel. First reading. . . 8, 546 Second reading. 8,947 Difference=401= number of revolutions. Average, 400.5 revolutions. CAMP TWELVE, NEAR HAMILTON. From Camp Twelve to stake on hill above Hamilton City. Measured distance, 199.87 chains. Wheels not greased for three days. Eoad rough, uneven, some parts stony, others sandy ; steep grades. 1st. On up-hill grade : No. 1 odometer : Number of revolutions = 994 = 398.32 revolutions per mile. No. 2 odometer : Number of revolutions = 996 = 399.12 revolutions per mile. 2d. From stake on hill down to camp : No. 1 odometer: Number of revolutions = 998 = 399.92 revolutions per mile. No. 2 odometer : Number of revolutions = 996 = 399.12 revolutions per mile. The same as above, with freshly -greased wheels. 49 Ist. Ou upliill grade : No. 1 odometer : Number of revoliitious = 997 = 399.52 revolutions per mile. No. 2 odometiT : Nmiihi'i- of revolutions = 990 = 399.12 revolutions per mile. 2d. Uu downhill grade : No. 1 odometer: Number of revolutions =99."> = 398.72 revolutions pi r mill'. No. 2 odometer : Number of revolutions = 1,000 — 400..'52 revolutions per mile. Average, 399.27 revolutions per mile. BETWEEN CAMPS FOURTEEN AND FIFTEEN. Between mile-posts, measured by eliain, on a hard, somewhat rolling and sligiiUy sandy road, l)rincipally down grade. liovolulious. No. 1 to No. 2 402 h'cviiliilions. No. 4 to No. ') 4(»3 No. 5 to No. (} 401 No. 6 to No. 7 402 No. 2 to No. 3 402 No. 3 to No. 4 402 Average, 402 revolutions. In remarking upon the results from odometer measurements, two distinct statements must be made, 1st, that the vehicle should go always at a walk, since, by increasing the gait, certain irreg- ularities of revolution must necessarily occur that will vitiate the measurement ; 2d, that the fric- tion on the axle must be thrown out as being an element not easy to determine, and one not iutiueucing the result in any appreciable degree so long as the axles are kept in anything like decent order. The experiments made near Uamilton show that the results are e(iuable, both in the case of using the axles after a three days' march, or a little more than sixty miles, and when freshly greased, going to show tliat at least it, has not been necessary to take into account the idea of fresh or newly greased wheels. It will be seen that in the revolution of a wheel by a horizontal pull that the length passed over will exceed the circumference of the wheel on account of the slii)ping or sliding motion. It can well be understood that this slii)piiig will be greater in case of rai)id revolutions ; another reason that these measurements should be made at a walk. The allowance to be made for a slip, determined by experiments made on an Arizona trip in 18GS, varieil from 1.2 to 2.1 per cent., while the rigid tests of this year decrease this even to the making the mean allowance nearly per cent. I refer this to the fact that in the lirst instance the aniui lis were ilriven at a tr>>t. Hence the actual number of revolutions to the mile should be less than the number obtained by using the perimeter as the basis; this is found iu practice to be the case, and obtaius in all our tests except one at both Elko and Ifaby, and those between camps 14 and I.".. The former were nndimbtedly the result of errors of observation; the later arises from the fact that the tire having become worn, the perimeter was shortened. Omitting, then, these three cases, we have the percentage to be allowed for the slii) as follows, viz: Experiments in Ruby Valley on haul rolling road O.li per cent. Experiments in ]{uby Valley on level rolling road 0.4 per cent. Experiments near 11 iinilton on steep-grade road 0.34 3)0.98 Average 0.33 per cent. All other things being equal, the slip of the wheel will vary aci^ordiug to the nature of the road, increasing as the road bed l)eeomes more heavy, and in very heavy sand special allowance has to be made. The slip of the wheel for up-grade is found to be greater than for down-grade. For the tirst part of the season 401 was the number of revolutions used per mile ; later it was found that 400 was a preferable number. So great was the accuracy of these measurements that, taken in connectiou with the fact that a Casella reconnaissance theodolite was used for the meander of the road traversed, it was unneces- 7 W 50 sary to reduce ineanderliaes by the ordinary process of dead-reckouing, individual judgment for the percentage to be allowed being suiBcient to reduce to the points astronomically determined. The odometers were attached to a little two-wheeled vehicle constructed for the purpose, which was talien charge of by a soldier whose sole duty was to keep account of the distances measured. There are difficulties connected with the mechanical contrivances of the odometer. 1st. The leather covering, however carefully made, will not keep the dust from working into the interior of the instrument on account of the manner in which the frame holding the circles is introduced. 2d. The circles themselves work loose from each other for the want of two nuts, one with a right-handed screwand the other with a left-handed one, at the back of these plates, for fastening them together. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. INSTRUMENTS USED. During the field-season cistern barometers, ISTos. 1378, 1555, and 1566, made by James Green, New York ; aneroids, Nos. 22 and 37, furnished by Charles G. Ewing, optician, San Francisco ; and hygrometers, Nos. 1631 and 2348, by Green, were used. Thermo-barometers, Nos. 1 and 2, by Green, were carried to the field, but beyond comparing their indications with those of the cisterns at Elko, Camp Ruby, Hamilton, Ice Creek, and Cave Valley, no use was made of them for hypsometrical purposes. OBSERVATIONS IN THE FIELD. Ilourly observations were taken at Camp Halleck from June 16 to June 29, inclusive, and at Camp Ruby, Hamilton, and West Point, over intervals of from five to eight days, for the pur- pose of securing tables of horary corrections to be applied to observations for hypsometrical purposes. On the march tri-daily observations were made at all camps of a day or more, and, at camps for one night only, at 7 a. m. and 9 p. m. The anei'oids were used only in connection with the odometer for securing an approximate profile of the route between camps, the altitudes of which latter were deduced from cistern-barome- ter observations. These observations have all been reduced and computed, and tlie results appear on the map of the reconnaissance. COMPARISONS OE BAROMETERS, ETC. Before taking the field, the barometers and attached thermometers were carefully compared with Green's standard cisiern-barometei', No. 1571, in Colonel Williamson's ottice in San Francisco, and their relative and absohite errors deduced. These comparisons extended over an interval of nine days, from June 2 to .June 11, 1869, and isicluded cistern barometers Nos. 1566, 1378, 1555, and 1282, and aneroids 22 and 37. At intervals during the season frequent com[)aris;>ns were made to check changes in the zero of the scales of the various iustruments; at Elko, Nev., from June 29 to July 3, fifteen com- parisons; at Camp Ruby, from July 9 to July 12, twehe comi)arisous ; at Hamilton, from July 16 to July 21, seventeen comparisons ; at Cave Valley, from August 9 to August 12, nine comparisons; at West Point, from September 23 to September 27, fourteen comparisons ; at Las Vegas, from October 1 to October 12, sixteen comparisons; at Indian Springs, from October 26 to October 30, thirteen comparisons ; and at the close of the field-season the instruments were again compared with standard 1571 at San Francisco. These comparisons in the case of cistern-barometers gave very tav(U'able results, showing but very slight changes in their relative errors from transportation, but the aneroids, being mechanical devices, suffered considerable shiftings of parts and consciiuent changes in their index errors, other than those due to tempera- ture or from want of coni[)ensatiou. The extreme variation in errors throughout the season being from +".010 to ".774 for aneroid 22, and from — 0".034 to — 0".186 for aneroid 37, but since these changes a;ippar fiom the comparisons to have been gradual, very good results were derived from the aneroid work. 51 CompariHOna of mercurial cintern -barometer with standard Xo. 1571, at San Francisco. Hour. BAKOMETEIt UNCORUECTED. BAROUETKR CORRECTED. ATTACHED THERMOHETEB. Date. Stand- ard. 1506. 1378. 1060. 1282. Stand- ard. 15C6. 1378. 1060. 1282. Stand- ard. 1566. 1378. 1060. 1382. June 2.. 2p. m .-10. 042 30. 030 30. 036 30. 072 30. 044 29. 92.1 29.919 29. 918 29. 953 29.927 72 o 71.9 o 72.5 o 73 o T2 June 3.. 9 a. ra TO. 04 30. 040 30. 052 30. 076 30. 050 29. 942 29. 947 29.951 2.<». 974 39.951 65 65.25 66 66.3 65.4 2 p. m 30. 084 30. 090 30. 082 30. 014 30. 084 29. 986 29. 992 29. 984 30. 015 29.987 65 64.9 65.1 65.5 64.8 June 1.. 9 a. m 30. 082 30.08 30.083 30. 112 30. 079 29. 987 29. 984 29. 987 30. 014 29.984 64 64.3 64.5 64.8 64 2 p. ni 31). 0C4 30. 0.'>8 30. 033 30.084 30.00 29. 947 29.941 29. 939 29. 964 29.943 73.2 72.1 73.8 73.2 73.1 Juno 5.. 9 a. ni . 30. 088 30. 082 30. 086 ■10.114 30. 090 29. 980 29. 980 29.983 30.011 29.989 66.6 66.5 66.9 67 66.1 June 7.. 9 a. in 30. 022 30. 024 30.022 30.048 .30. 019 20. 924 29. 927 29. 923 29. 948 29. 921 64.9 64.75 65.5 65.6 64.9 2 p. n- 30. 002 29. 994 29. 998 ;i0. 024 29. 992 29.885 29. 977 29. 879 29.904 29.874 72.1 7-2.25 73.1 7.3.3 73.2 June 8.. 9 a. m , 30. 027 30. 023 30. 024 3U. 0.18 30. 02:t 29. 919 29. 915 29. 914 89. 948 29.915 68.6 6A5 69.25 69.5 68.6 2 p. m :io. 039 30. 031 30. 028 .30. 0.'.8 30. 024 29. 916 29. 918 29. 912 29. 941 29.910 70.6 70.75' 71.6 71.5 70.9 Juno 9.. 9 a. ni. 30. 074 30. 073 30. 071 30. 090 30. 065 29. 978 29. 977 29. 974 29. 998 29.970 64.4 64.3 64.75 64.9 64.2 2 p. m 30. 070 30. 073 30. 0«) 30. DUG 30. 009 29. 961 29.958 29. 952 29. 978 39.953 71.5 71.4 72.1 72.5 71.4 June 10.. 9 a. ni 30. 084 30. 082 30. 084 30.111 30.03 29. 99 29. 988 29.989 30, 016 39.986 63.6 63.5 64 63.9 63.5 2 p. m . 30. 082 30. 07.? 30. 076 30.1 30. 076 29. 974 29. %7 29. 966 29.989 29. 968 68.7 68.7 69. S 69.9 6a 7 June 11.. 9 a. m. 30. 000 29. 992 29.993 30. 026 29. 997 29. 907 29. 900 29.699 29.932 29. 904 62.9 62,8 63.4 63.5 63 Date. I jiur. ERROR OP BAROMETER. ERROR OF THERMOMETER. Stand- ard. 1566. 1378. 1060. 1282. Stand- ai^. 1566. 1378. 1060. 1382. o 2 p. 9 a. 2 p. 9 a. 2 p. 9 a. 000 + .006 -.005 —.006 +.007 -.009 + .002 + .000 +.008 +.003 — 028 - 002 .000 +0.1 -0.35 +0.1 -0.3 +0.1 +0.1 —0.5 - 1.0 -0.0 -.032 -.029 -.009 —.001 -1.0 -0.1 - 1.3 - 0.5 -0.4 + 0.2 -(-.003 + .006 + .006 -.087 — .017 +.003 +.004 -.003 -0.5 -0.6 - 0.8 - 1.0 +0.0 ni +0.1 June 5. m -.025 -0.3 - 0.4 +0.5 June 7 - ion, Corps of Engineers, San Francisco, California. 1 a a 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 n 10 11 la 13 14 15 IC 17 4J p a II P Standard No. 1571 uncoi-. rected. % 3 d 'A o' i - Is en Aneroid readings. Aneroid dift'erences. Xo. 22. No. 37. No. 22. No. 37. 1S69. Dec. 6 Dec. 7 Deo. 8 Dec. 8 Dec. 9 Dec. 9 Dec. 10 Dec. 10 Dec. 11 Dec. 11 Dec. 13 Dec. 13 Dec. 14 Dec. 15 Dec. 16 Dec. 16 r)r.C_ 17 2 p. m. .. 9 a. m... 9 a. m... 2p.m... 9 a. m... 2 p.m... 9 a. m... 2p.m... 9 a. m... 2p.m... 9 a.m... 2 p.m... 9a.m... 9 a. m... 9a. m... 2p.m... 9a.m... 64.4 57.6 58.2 6.'). 1 56.9 63.5 54.5 60.8 5,5.0 59.7 54.6 61.1 56.7 58.0 59.0 65.2 58.5 30. 072 30. 071 30. 009 an. 977 30. 271 30. 276 30. 291 30. 247 30. 308 30. 286 30. 308 30. 235 30. 261 30. 228 30. 143 30. 113 30. 190 .096 .078 .080 .098 .076 .094 -.070 .087 .071 .084 .070 .087 .076 .079 .082 .098 .080 29.976 29.993 29. 929 29. 879 30. 195 30. 182 30.221 30. 160 30.237 30.202 30. 238 30. 148 30. 185 30. 149 30. 003 30.015 30.110 29. 219 29. 220 29. 221 29. 221 29. 220 30. 166 30. 189 30. 063 30. 061 30. 379 30. 371 30. 400 30. 341 30.422 .30. 384 30. 424 30. 340 30. 371 30. 339 30. 200 30.217 30. 300 +.7.'i7 +.773 +.708 +.658 +.975 -.190 -.196 -.134 -.192 -.184 -.189 -.179 -.181 -.185 -. 182 -.186 -.192 -.186 -.190 -.197 -. 202 -.190 -. Siim +3. 871 + .774 -.3. 1.55 -0. 1856 1 MINERALS. Siuce tbe ilifl'erent forms in which the elements of lauded surface are aggregated determine whether we shall have a region agricultural, mineral, or arid, as may be expected, the greatest diversity occurs, and experience teaches that agricnltnral and mineral sections are seldom found in immediate juxtaposition. Southern Xevada undoubtedly possesses all the rights and privileges of a mineral region, and beyond that, as a place for tlie aggregation of population, it must always have small weight in com- parison to other land-areas of equal size. I do not hesitate to say that the section embraced be- tween the 11-lth and 116th degrees of longitude, limited latitudinally by '66° 30' on the south, and 39° 30' on the north, bids fair to develop and supi)ly more of the precious metals than any similar-sized area covered by our survey. The minerals found are gold, silver, copper, lead, antimony, iron, salt, gypsum, alum, and cobalt; of them all, silver is the most common, and is the principal of the precious metals in all the different mining camps, while, so far as the knowleilge is at my disposal, gold is only noticed at the Sacramento, Egan, and Groom Districts, and, except at Egan, only in small quantities. Silver-ore appears in all its iiiiown forms, the more common being the chloride and sulphide- Sulphide is becoming common and rapidly growing into significance as one of the richer das.ses of ore, and many a black-looking rock, that would have been thrown away by the early prospector, is now found to assay as high as $3,000 or $4,000 per ton. Copper is found native and in the ore n the Potosi and Clarke Districts, and at various points along and near the Colorado River; lead, as sulphurets, always more or less argentiferous, in some i^laces appears in immense deiiosits and veins; these can all ultimately be worked, and to a good profit; the base bullion averaging tioni $35 to $2(i() per ton. Antimony occurs also with the galena, sometimes to so great an extent as to render flic free- ing of the silver-ore a diflicult problem. Gyi)snm is found in beds at two places noticed by our parties ; one not far from the old emi- grant-road, and about midway between Las Vegas ranch and the crossing of the JIuddy ; and at another along Las Vegas Wash. The (piality is apparently inferior. 53 A wide \ciii or iron ore was discovered crossing tlie Colorado in tlie midst of A'ir;;in or Boulder Cafiou. Small beds of alum occur in some of the side canons leadin;;' down to tlie Colorado in the vicinity of Virjiin Cafion. Salt occurs in deposits as ore in beds and wells. The most remarkable of the deposits is found along the Virgin, some five or six miles below Saint Thomas, in a very ])urc form, showing re- markable cubical crystallizations. There are two very extensive deposits near the bed of the Itio \'irgen, lying between its mouth and the entrance of the Muddy. Near the former point is a large and deep salt well, having its upper surface at a distance of about GO feet below the mesa bank. A large bed of salt is found in Jiailioad X'alley; tliis, however, is (piite impure, ami only of service in the reduction of ores b}' the roasting process. Other beds occur to the north and east of the route from Cave Valley to Treuss Lake. But to the silver that is to come from thest> rough and rugged hills must we look for the future jirosperity of Southern Nevada, and the benefit, both local ami national, that is to be derived there- trom. So long as it is known that there is still hoi)e of finding a fresh silver deposit, so long will eager and industrious men .seek for it and dig it out, and it now seems probable that for long years to come the annual silver yield of Nevada will be on the increase. The most valuable districts in the area above mentioned that have already been discovered are Ely, Morey, Timi)ahute, and Pahranagat. The first i>romises the largest results; the second has over six thousand tons of ore in sight, of a very rich quality ; the third has been ^■ery little devel- oped, but has line surface indications ; the fourth and last has been developed considerably, and shows large veins of low-grade ore. The ])rospeets of the next four years, if they continue favorabl<>, ought to induce cai)italists to build a railroad line through this country, which will have a tendency to open ni> mines of the low- grade ores, that at the present time cannot be worked piofitably. Ill VERS, CREEKS, AND SPRINGS. Of ri\-ers, within the area embracetl, there are but four, viz, Colorado, llumlioldt, \'irgin, and ]Muddy. The latter, excei)t in a section bordering upon or in the Great American or some other de.sert, would never, even in name, approach the dignity of a river, and in the final maps will be changed to " creek." Of creeks, there is an abundance in .some localities, in others a remarkable scarcity; varying greatly in their nature and extent, at some i>laces confined to the mountains, losing themselves before reaching the extremity of the foot-hills; at others stretching farther out only to become entirely absorbed after reaching the dry plains. It is a noticeable fact that the majority of the mountainrangessiiow more creeks on their eastern slopes, a fact easily e\|)lained from the more freipient tilting of the strata in that direction, and the conse(iuently greater horizontal extension of the foot-hills. The Colorado and Rio X'irgen, in their turn, will receive a succinct descrii>tion. The Humboldt, better known, needs none. The Muddy so limited in extent, needs oidy a few words for its source, volume, and course. The present recognized source occurs in a number of springs of tepid water, near the southern end of the canon called "Arrow Canon," leading out from Pahranagat Valley; doubtless these again have their source in Pahranagat Lake, which is fed from the ditt'erent thermal springs that start in the valley of that name, which in turn may be fed from the dia in age of Sierra Valley, gaining their high temperature in subterranean transit. It is not unlikely that similar sources, flowing through other subterranean channels, feed the .springs that act as a source to the Muddy, to those of the s[>rings in Pahranagat Valley, yet one naturally asks for the outlet of Pahranagat Lake, that receives streams amounting in all to ;!,()(l(l inches of water. The temperature of the sitrings, so far mentioned, varies fVoni about (>7 - to Ol'^ Fahrenheit, the latter obtaining at "Ash Sjuings" in Pahranagat X'alley. In the itinerary the fact of the waters rising in Spring or Cedar Valley, above the Mormon set- 54 tlement of Homer, aud, finding their way either ou the surface or under ground, to a point some four or five miles below West Point; this, theu, may be looked upon as the source of what might be termed the Eastern Branch. The main stream has its confluence with the Rio Yirgen about IrJ- miles below Saint Thomas, the greater part of the water having been absorbed in the excessive aud careless irrigation of the different settlements. In the summer season the water remains warm for the whole distance. The rapidity of the current atul the looseness of the soil of its banks give rise to the muddy appearance ; hence the name. The volume of the flow taken at a point before any of its waters are used for irrigation, will at least reach .5,000 inches; this amount is carried in a narrow and deep channel, the bed of which has quite a declivity ; hence the great strength of the curreut. The course is about south-southeast, and its length from Muddy Springs is about thirty-two or thirtj'three miles, flowing for the most part through a narrow valley, surrounded on either hand by a perfect desert of low sand-hills, broken earth, and stony mesa, in the background of which appear the dark and .somber mountains that rule the horizon supreme. A large number of the creeks are formed from the melting of the snows, which, among the iiigher ranges, feed a continuous stream for all seasons of the year. Others have their source in mountain springs of pure and limpid water. With hardly any exception the character of the water is very pure, except here aiul there it is rendered stagnant in pools, or alkaline, on account of infiltration from the banks. It is very rare that one finds fish in any of these mountain-streams. A few small trout were found to tlie eastward of the Snake range. This does not apply, however, to streams flowing from the Humboldt range, that are numerously stocked with an excellent variety of mountain- trout. It is believed that the waters of the Muddy contain no fish. The great variety of springs, as regards their chemical constituents and thermal conditions, is truly surprising, as often in the same valley, within a few miles of each other, will be found those of the purest and clearest water, and others having various mineral indications affected by a high temperature. This was noticed especially in Steptoe Valley. The most remarkable of the thermal springs noted is the one at Elko, which, near the summit of a slight sand mesa, comes boiling out of the earth and flows into a reservoir apparently eroded for its reception. The water shows indica- tions of sulphur quite largely, and doubtless comes from a great dei)tli. From springs of this class to those showing themselves in Pahranagat and Meadow Valleys, there are found all varieties, some having fpiite high temperature and no mineral, and others impreg- nated with minerals and but slightly above the ordinary temperature. The warm spring near the stage-road, and about midway between Elko and Hamilton, is a characteristic si)ecimen of the former sort. A continual mist rises from the surface, even in the heat of the day, and the intermittent thermal action of the waters can be seen at various points of the bottom, the water being very clear. Strange enough, there were large numbers of small-sized fish playing about in these waters, similar in character to the ordinary chub-sucker, but smaller in .size. The few hours permitted for our stay at the place did not allow of getting specimens. The celebrated Vegas Springs are of pure, clear water, very slightly above the surrounding temperature. Tiieir bottoms are a whitish quicksaiul that continually changes, continued pressure of the water forcing itself to the surface, which now and theu in breaking through makes a revolu- tion, similar in appearance to what I had imagined for an intermittent flow of lava from an active volcano. They are not large in area, but the volume of water will reach as high as 1,500 inches. What are called "seep springs" are now and theu found, generally through the aid of Indians, at points where one would never dream of tiieir presence, especially when discovered, as they often are, among basaltic foothills, completely desiccated and destitute of vegetation. These, however, attord so slight an amount of water that they canimt be depended upon for any exigencies of the inarch where many animals are in the party, and are simidy reservoirs for the natural moisture that is found along the .seams of the rocks composing tht' mountains. Many springs ai))iearing at the base of the foot-hills are occasioned by the melting of the snows on the mountains above, that, flowing a little distance, disappear, to show themselves again where the surface of the underlying rock approaches more nearly that of the soil. 55 The walers ari.siiij;- tVotn the sources so far described, mostly sink in tlie valleys before reach- ing any recognized outlet to carry them to the sea. In the basin draining toward the Colorado, the downfall of its immense watershed reaches this river largely underneath the soil, except where, finding a home in natural dei)ressions, it remains, giving rise to subterranean basins of water that exist in nearly all the mountain valleys. At what ilcptli these shall be reached, and at what points they are most accessible, are ques- tious that reipiire great practical local study. Admitting the practicability of reaching these reservoirs, there can be seen in the future some relief to these nianj' desert places from the .sinking of artesian wells, so soon as the development of wealth (followed by population) and industry admit of their introduction. • COI.OUADO KiVKi;. This slicaiu, magnilicent so far as length and extent of country drained can make it so, was the southern limit of the ai'ea embraced by the reconnaissance. At the immediate point at which it was reached by our parties, some four hundred or live hun- dred yards below the mouth of the Itio Virgen, the current is exceedingly rapid, and the width of the river not more than one hundred yards. The water is of a yellowish muddy color, hti;;htened at this vicinity on account of the waters received from the Hio Virgen ; the banksare somewhat steep, the river having encroached concavely into a gravelly mesa, the walls of w hich are from tifteeu to twenty feet iu height. At this point everything is a sceuo of wild desolation ; rocky and rugged mountains of various colors stand out on either side in the most strange and fantastic contour. A few miles above this point the river emerges from a slight canon, carved out as it were from the Virgen range that from this i)oint follows on to the southward, .soon breaking away into low foothills, and then entirely disappearing. The Muddy Mountains that, turning to the southwest, cross the Colorado about live or six miles below the IJio Virgen, inclose the western and northwestern horizon. A continuation of low foot-hills entirely limit the soatliern view, witli no fai' distant peaks, betokening rugged or impass- able ranges. Wo tried to obtain the services of tlie two M.>nni)n lislienni'ii, who iiiliabiti'd a little hut near b\-, w ho.se time was divided between catching poor tish and watching a pile of ore from the Salt Mines, distant eight or ten miles above, on the Virgin River, to row one or two of ns as far as Callville; but their companion not being with them, they did not dare to leave their n-ndezvous. as both would be necdeil iTi order to bring the boat back. This was the occasion of considerable disappointment, as I had hoi)ed to be able to give a personal inspection to the chances for navigation tiirough Virgin or IJoulder Canon. !Mr. Gibbons, while cii route to Join the Arizona assembly, traveled by the river from llie mouth of the Virgin to La I'az, passing through the above caFiou, as well as the Ulack Canon, iu a small boat, and he assured me that by far the most formidable hinderauces to navigation were to be found in the latter. He had no doubt that a steamer drawing not more than twenty-four inches, with a powerful engine, could sui-ccsst'nlly jiass both places, when the river is not swollen by the freshets occasioned by the melting snows. This cause would impede, if not altogether suspend, na\igation during the months of April, JMay, and part of June. The irregularities of tho current and the amount of water are not materially changed by the rains that occur in July and January. Copper-ore was found near the head of Mrgin Canon ; iron-ore, in a canon leading out to the river immediately at the entrance to the cahon ; w hile alum-beds were encountered in a small canon leading down to the river, about midway of the Honhler Canon. It would be impossible to build a road from the mouth of the Virgin to Callville iu [iroxiiuity to the river. The present one from .Saint Thomas to the latter-mentioned point, follows the banks and beds of the Kio Virgen for about eight or ten miles, then branches to the southwest over a sand-mesa, and follows winding and sandy washes, reaching the Colorado at Callville, a distance of about thirty-live miles. Virgin, or Boulder Canon, has been formed by erosion, the sand-mesas giving evidences that 56 at one period tbe riverbed was elevated above its present position some four hundred or live hun- dred feet. The river widens out somewhat from Callville to the head of the Black Canon, flowing- more regularly with less current ; its broader expanse and more regular banks assuming a quiet majesty amid its wild surroundings. The river-bank was approached by our parties at several points along Boulder Canon, aud at none of them was there appearance of any rapids ; the channel was much narrower and the course of the river very winding, with the canon-walls near approached. Our route from the mouth of the Vegas Wash to El Dorado CaQou took us away from the view of the river, the sharp, black peaks of the Black Canon range showing us, however, its position and direction. ^ Following down a series of sandy washes from the summit, that having- been reached spreads out upon our horizon the sharp outstanding crests of the Black Mountains, and the valley of the Colorado as far to tlie south as the Needles, the river-bank is reached some two or three miles from the mouth of El Dorado Caiiou, at which point a quartz-mill was iu oi)eration. Here the banks, the width of the river, and the current, are quite simihir to what is found iu the vicinity of Camp Mojave. The barge being absent down the ri\er, it was iuipossible to make a trip up the river as far as Roaring Rapids, as had been intended. Along the banks of the Colorado, above the head of Cottonwood A'alley, as high as our first point of approach, there is hardly an acre of land under cultivation ; there is no wood, with tlie exception of now- and then a stunted mesquite-bush ; the banks, where they are not the solid walls of precipitous cafious, are broken gravelly masses, subject to continual changes by denudation. Looking for practical results as regards internal communication alone, one is saddened and disap- pointed while examining this great river, so magnificent in its solitude. Particularly here was felt the want of some oue with the party w ho could give entire and care- ful attention to the geology of the many interesting localities where bounteous nature has framed the walls upon which so much is written. NAVIGATION OF THE COLOEAUO. Iu the rei)ort of the Colorado exploring expedition iu charge of Lieutenant Ives, Corps of Topographical Engineers, the foot of the Black Caiion was denominated as the practical head of navigation. The results of later years show that steamers can go as far as Callville, and the itinerary report favors the idea that navigation may be carried as far as the foot of tbe lower main or Grand Canon of the Colorado. When the local wants of the surroundings of the Colorado between the above limits call for water trausi>ortation, American industry and energy will soon develop the means. It would seem to be, however, a matter of soiue importance that at least a rude hydrographic survey should be conducted, as far as circumstances will permit, iu an upward direction. Judgiug from information gleaned here and there, this cannot be carried beyond a distance of about fifteen miles above tiie mouth of the Grand Caiion. As far as Ell )orado Canon, the navigation of the river is practicable at all seasons of the year with such steamers as are at present in use. The season of the year is an element which has (piite an important infiuence upon the stage of the river iu the caDous, as doubtless, during the lowest water, say for the month of December of each year, no matter how light the draught of the steamer, it could not i)ass the bars formed in vicinity of the rapiils; while during the freshets, which occur in the sjjriug of the year, upon the melting of the snows iu the mountains, which give a distance of fully fifty feet between high and low water mark, navigation must needs be suspended. Without a removal of one of the obstructions, the navigation above the foot of the Black Canon and to the point mentioned, even for nine montlis in the year, must be carried on at considerable hazard ; steamers towing barges and having a higher power, drawing less water than those now employed by the Colorado Navigation Company, dimensions of which are given in a rejtort made by B\ t. Lieut. Vo\. S. M. Mansfield to the Chief of Engineers in 1S67, can bo used above the foot of Black Cnnon to better advantage. 57 EIO TTEGEN. This river, having its source in the central part of Utah, flowing southwest for a long distance, lined here and there witii Mormon settlements, was met by our parties at the mouth of the Muddy, some thirty miles above where it enters the Colorado. Its sandy bed, widened by each successive freshet, changeable on account of quicksands, carries its channel now to the one, now to the other side with a tortuous elasticity, and most of the crossings are uncertain because of changes in the banks and beds of quicksand. The volume is not great at this season of the year (October.) Head- ing toward the Colorado and traveling for five or six miles the famous Salt Mountain is readied, noted for its crystals of very pure rock-salt. This is the property of the IJyko Silver Mining Com- pany, and is used by them in their mining operations in the Pahranagat District. Some notion had been entertained of freighting the ores from this enormous deposit via the Colorado and water transportation to a market, but will doubtless bo abandoned, since the expense of placing the ore at the mouth of the Virgin Eiver would be nearly as great as the cost per pound of salt at any point where there is a large market. Still following the river and coming to within eight miles of its mouth, on the left bank a salt mine is found, not so pure as the crystals found and mentioned above, but running as high as 80 per cent., while the other reaches as high as 90 per cent. On an extensive mesa, quite near the mouth of the river, is a salt well apparently of great depth, not large in diameter, and having the surface of its water about 40 feet below the level of the mesa. The water, though very clear, is terribly saline, as is also that found segregated in small pools along the river-wash, which " alkalis" animals, as it is termed, so badly that a few draughts prove fatal. This well is probably the recipient of drainage, not alone from these pools and the bed of the river, but possibly from the salt luines themselves. Below this mesa and on the banks of the fast-flowing Colorado a hut was found, inhabited by two Mormon tishermen. They looked upon themselves as the nucleus of a civilization to be established on the banks of the Colorado, and by following the same active industry evinced in many of their semi-desert towns, they may perhaps establish a little settlement here. TIMBEE. The locations at which timber, of any size, can be found throughout Southern 5?evada, are few in number and of simple description. Along the Humboldt range, from Camp HaUeck to AYhite Pine District, no timber of any size or large amount appears. A small mill in Ruby Valley, some ten or twelve miles above old Camp Kuby, was at work sawing out narrow boards from a variety of short-leaved yellow-pine, something between the ordinary scrub and the long-leaved or yellow southern pine ; the tcuuks being of irregular size and very full of knots. On the western side of the mountains, facing Railroad Valley, from twenty to thirty miles below Hamilton and near the source of Currant Creek, several mills had sawed out, for building- purposes about the AVhite Pine District, large quantities of a similarkindof lumber, but of generally better average quality. In the vicinity of the Robinson District the true yellow-pine is found in large quantities, extending over a considerable area ou the eastern slope of the I-lgan range, inter- spersed here and there with patches of mountain-fir. The next we encounter is to the north and east of the Patterson District, and about eight or nine miles distant, near the source of Benson's Creek. A small steam saw-mill was at work at this place, as also at the Robinson District, upon Murray's Creek. Directly to the north of the Shoshone District, and on the western slope of the Snake range, some of the ravines are thinly studded with piue of good growth, interspersed with fir, also spruce and hemlock. The quantity in this locality is not large, but sufficient in amount for all local pur- poses connected with the development of the mines in the vicinity. Going south on the lino farthest east, the only timber along the route, prior to reaching the Colorado, was found in ravines to the south and east of Clover Valley. A small mill was steadily employed at this point furnishing lumber for the various Mormon settlements within a radius of fifty to seventy-five miles. 8 w 58 On Liexitenant Lockwood's route between Cave Camp and the headwaters of the Muddy, timber was encountered at three different points : first, about twelve miles below our camp in Cave Valley, to the west and opposite to the Patterson District ; second, on the Pahranagat range, in the vicinity of the Great Quartz Mountain ; and on the same range, some thirty-five to forty miles northwest from West Point. The supply is quite large at the first and third points, while 750,000 feet will be the superior limit in the vicinity of the Pahranagat mining-camp. The last situation is upon the eastern slope of the Spring Mountain range, and nearly fifty miles in a northwest direction from Las Vegas. The amount far exceeds that found at any of the other points, and will not be limited by 3,000,000 feet of lumber. The pines are of very large diameter and of extreme lengths. Spruce and hemlock show them- selves to a considerable extent. The only black birch and poplar encountered during the trip were found in this locality in small quantities. It will be seen that with the exception of two instances the timber-patches of this entire sec- tion are on the eastern slopes of the mountain-ridges, as it is natural to expect, from the formation of the foot-hills. Nut-pine and mountain-cedar abound in frequent localities, and will become of great value as fuel in many places where now only the former aflbrd the pine-nuts as a sustenance to the Indian. These are large enough in many places to act as timbering for the mines. It becomes painfully evident that in event of the development of the various mining sections, 'umber, always scarce, will of necessity command high prices and entail serious hindennce and discomfort. This was noticed to a remarkable degree in the early days of White Pine, when lum- ber was worth two hundred to three hundred dollars per thousand, allowing the shipment of it by rail from the Sierra Nevada to Elko, on the railroad, thence by freighting to White Pine, with large profits. GAME. Southern Nevada cannot be said to be abundant in game in any of its localities. Among large game there the deer and antelope are noted. The latter, once abundant in some of the valleys, have been driven away by the approach of civilization. Small droves of five or six were seen occasionally upon the route, but always at distances out of ordinary rifle-shot. The deer that now remain have been hunted to the mountains and ravines by the Indians, and are as rare as are the summer rains of this climate. They no longer go in herds, but separate, two by two, to seek secure retreats. Among the small game are found duck, geese, crane, sage-hen, grouse, quail, jack and cotton- tail rabbits. In some sections the duck are very plenty ; especially in Kuby Valley, at Duckwater inPailroad Valley; also in Spring, Snake, and Meadow Valleys. They appear in turn at most of the valley locations where there is clear and living water. They were noticed in the greatest num- bers among a nest of lakes in the depression of the valley immediately to the eastward of Pat- terson District, one of their great breeding-grounds. The principal species are the teal, mallard, and canvas-back; varieties of each were noticed, the former predominating. Geese, more migratory in their habits, were rarely seen, except upon their march for the southward, upon our return, having come from points further north on their way to a winter resort. Now and then small parties of large sand-hill cranes were encountered, always so shy that no success followed any of the attempts to capture them. The sage-hen, so well known in Nevada, are found more or less in nearly every one of the valleys, and if not too far advanced in age make a very good dish for the hungry traveler. Grouse only appear high up among the mountains, where timber is found, and hence at very , few points. They are perhaps the most delicate eating of any of the small game and the most ditlicnlt of capture. (iuail are not met with until the latitude of about 37° 30' is reached. From this section to the southward as far as the Colorado occasionally flocks of small size show themselves. The varieties are those known as the ordinary California quail, somewhat smaller than those found in the Eastern States. 59 Rabbits now and then occur, but they are annually decimated by the Indians, who kill them constantly and pcisistently. To the sportsmen duck-shooting offers the most legitimate field for pleasure. An ordinary traveler passing through the country and dei)ending ni)on game for his food would probably starve; even the Indians, tiie most expert and incessant of all hunters, are obliged to gather pine-nuts, to supply in a great measure the necessity for food. MOUNTAIN-ROADS. These above latitude 37° are better than the average of Nevada roads, as by skirting the foot- hills and keeping out of the low ground, where the presence of alkali is nearly always noticed, quite a firm bottom is found. Constant travel, however, after a short time wears the road-bed, giving rise to a great amount of pulverized material which acts as dust in dry seasons, and as mud upon the advent of the rains. This is peculiarly noticed along the stage-roads from Elko to White Piue, where much freighting has been done. Over a road similar to the one following down Steptoe Valley, a march of twenty miles for a loaded wagon is accomjilished with as nuich ease as one of fifteen miles on a route similar to that along the valley of the (Jila, in xirizona, fur instance ; this same ratio may be said to obtain between the roads in the section above mentioned and those in Southern California and Arizona, generally. Below latitude 37^ quite a change is uoticed ; sandy washes, broken mesas, and alkali spots becom- ing more frequent. The grades going to the northward also become heavier, and there exists, until the Colorado is reached, a more rapid decrease in altitude. This latter is a point of no disadvantage, since the greater part of the travel, present and future, is liable to be to the southward. A strip nearly parallel to the river and to the north and westward may be said to be almost impassable for roads, execiit in a northerly and southerly direction, and this only upon taking advantage of winding washes and steep box-caiions. The road from Saint Thomas to the mouth of the Virgin, following for a greater part of the distance the partly overflowed bed of the river, would likely be nearly impassable during the sea- son of the floods. At those times a route following the broken and sandy mesas of the right bank must be sought out. It will hardly be possible to get through a decent track for wagons from the lower end of Meadow Valley to the settlements on the Muddy ; if it is ever done, the first labor will be exces. sive, and the resulting road will be but an indifferent one, if passable at all. The road from Toano to the mouth of the Virgin is an excellent one until the lower end of Pahrauagat Valley is reached ; thence to the headwaters of the Muddy some sandy stretches are crossed ; from the latter point until the Virgin River is reached, only a few sandy spots are encountered, so that for the whole distance there is not more than forty to forty-five miles of difH- cult travel. The route traversed of late from Elko via White Pine, Railroad Valley, and Las Vegas is a d fficult and desolate one. Some parties pushing out from the lower country have reached the Colorado at the mouth of the Virgin, and were obliged to follow as near the river as possible until Hardy ville was reached before a crossing could be efl'ected. So soon as the connection can be maile from the mouth of the Virgin to the military road leading to Prescott, a through route of consider- able service in the future will be established. CAVE IN CAVE VALLEY. Onr anticipations had been greatly aroused by varied reports of a cave near the Patterson Mining District, for the greater i)art unexjilored, and supposed to be of grand magnitude. Ai-cord- ingly, upon arriving in its vicinity and pitching our tents within some three hundred yards, our next eflbrts were toward fitting up a party to make a thorough exploration. We were fortunate in securing the services of au old Indian of the Gosiute tribe, named Anzip, who professed a m thorough knowledge of the subterranean windings, and to bo conversant also with the various Indian traditions that attribute strange characteristics to the locality. As we gather round the camp-fire dinner he relates to our interi^reter in his native tongue tbe various wonders of this underground world. The principal tradition runs that far within the cave they come upon a new and grand world where a race of white people live having fair fields and flowers, grassy lawns and cool fountains, with a vast profusion of magnificence ; that at one time and another the Indians who have ventured within their confines have been taken and made pris- oners, never being allowed to return to their tribes. In all during his remembrance six had been so taken, and the various lodges mourned their loss and were desirous that some strong power like our own should go to demand their return. The intense excitement of Anzip's imagination depicted so truthfully upon his swarthy features was highly interesting, connected with his earnest and gesticulating manner. When we would seem to doubt his re-asserted tale he was so terribly angry that, being afraid that he would abandon us as guide, we gave tacit consent to his various narrations. Our old guide " Pogo " has told us that within the memory of his mother, now very aged, two squaws had been taken upon entering tbe cave, and, after an absence of four years, were sent back to the outer world, clad in the finest of buckskiu, covered with hieroglyphics of the race who had for that time held them in bondage. They professed to have been well treated and to have lived in a pleasant land. Again two more had disappeared in the same way and were never heard from again. These and various other stories served to while away the twilight hour of the evening before our visit to the above locality. Our party numbered twenty-three, well supplied with all necessa- ries, such as candles, ropes, and arrangements for measuring and making a survey. We made an early start, and were out of the light of day between six and seven hours. Our measurings made the cave no longer than 3,000 feet, and for the last 1,000 feet the novelty had greatly worn away, when we found ourselves crawling among the slime of some of the worst imaginable clayey sediment. For 700 or 800 feet from the entrance everything was dry, the walls high, and several compart- ments were quite interesting ; beyond that the humidity and mud commenced, and upon our return- ing to the outer air our persons were more of a curiosity than the cave itself. Our guide got along very well for about two thousand feet ; then he commenced to get excited and bewildered, constantly threading various labyrinths and returning to the place of departure. This mistake could have happened to any one, only that we had left marks here and there easily to be recognized. Every channel was closely examined, and all were found to exhaust in the solid wall of the surrounding lime. One deep well was found that apparently extended downward for seventy feet, at which point the lead sinker struck either the bottom or a projecting shoulder. A plan of the cave, as well as a view of the buttes in which it is situated, will appear in Vol. I of the Survey Eeports, The sketch indicates that the subterranean opening extends as far as these buttes, which are situated some three or four miles from the high peaks of the adjacent Schell Creek range. We came out and returned to our camp, weary, covered with mud and slime, and with every particle of romance eliminated from us, and to wonder that there ever could be a race so imagina- tive and speculative in everything that is absurd as the Indian. ROUTE TAKEI^ BY EMIGRANTS PERISHING IN AND NEAR DEATH VALLEY. These parties, consisting of as many as forty wagons and one hundred and fifty souls, having crossed the plains and reached Salt Lake, passed to the south and west through some of the Mor- mon settlements until the vicinity of Meadow Valley was reached. From this point a Mormon, named Bennett, was to guide them through to California. Passing to the westward of Meadow Valley, a spring in the foot-hills of the continuation of the Schell Creek range, now known as Bennett's Spring, was reached ; from this point the guide seemed to have no definite knowledge of the route, and, bearing to the north and west, they wandered on a desert track until the sink of Sierra Creek was reached. At this place Bennett entirely deserted them, leaving behind him no information, and the parties themselves at a poor and sterile camp, while he returned to some of the settlements, 61 where ho is still livinfr. Starting out from Sierra Creek, and traveling nearly cine west, they wan- dered over the mountain desert, tra%-eliug for the most part well down in the valleys, not realizing that more frequently the water must be sought up among the foot hills. Sulfering soon arose, and the large party broke up into several small ones, wandering hero and there until the men, exhausted by thirst and fatigue, and the animals for the want of sustenance and water, the great Death Valley of Southwestern Xevada made for them a grave. Chance parties of prospectors and explorers have found the bones of the men and animals and remnauts of the wagons at desert points as far to the southwest as Death Valley proi>er, in Cali- fornia. Iron tires taken from the old wheels were found by us at the mines in Meadow Valley and at Las Vegas llanch. An old Indian once told our interpreter that he had followed after the parties, wishing to give information in regard to the springs, but that they were nmcli afraid of liim and would not let liim come within hailing distance, preferring to perish in the rough, wild desert rather than trust them- selves in the hands of the treacherous Indians. Their loss is a sad example of the misfortunes of mountain travel, where, with no one to lead, and no prior knowledge of the country, parties may meet with the most intense hardship and sutTeriug, if not, as in the above case, the most wretched of deaths. OLD SALT LAKE ROAD. This was crossed by us in the field of our explorations at two poiuts, one a little below AVest Point, on the Muddy, the other at Las Vegas Ranch. This road, so much used at one time in the winter season by the Jlormous in freighting into Southern Utah, is long, and sandy in the extreme. The stretches between waters from the Cajon Pass to Saint George are long and tedious, and the camps, at which glazing and wood are scarce, numerous. Its former uses no longer obtain, as it is found much cheaper to freight to the most remote and southern settlements in Utah from the Central Pacific Railroad. Callville was established with the hope that water-facilities might lighten the extravagant prices of all supplies freighted in by land from the California coast, but before the completion of even a landing or a store-house, w^as abandoned. ROUTES TRAVERSED BY MORMONS IN 18.17. The ^lormons, looking forward to active operations with the troops ordered to their section under General Johnston in 1857, and for secure shelter in case of being driven from their mount- ain homes, sent out two expeditions to seek for fertile mountain retreats to the westward. Oue party, consisting of twenty-six wagons, leaving Beaver City passed west to Hawawah Springs, then across Desert and Lake Valleys, until the pass where the Patterson mines now are was found. Beyond this point the route was the same as the one followed by onr parties from Steptoe Val. ley, which inviting valley having been found by them, they returned upon nearly the same route. The other party, leaving the settlements farther to the south along the valley of the Upper Rio Virgen, made their way into what is now known as Meadow Valley, thence to Pahranagat Valley, and, passing to the northward, reached Sierra Valley, an uninviting situation ; thence they found their way to the tracks of the other parties, and made their return upon them. Our return trip from Hawawah Springs to camp in Cave Valley, followed their route very nearly. MAPS. The maps, carefully compiled from the original data, giving details of the topography, will appear, *one upon a scale of 1' to six miles ; another, upon a scale of 1' to twelve miles. The elevations along a line projected for a railroad to connect the Central Pacific Railroad with the Colorado, are shown on a special profile map. Great care has been exercised in the topographical details, and the attempt has been made to exhibit the light and shade as it actually falls upon the mountains when the sun occupies a position * The map apon the scale of 1' to six miles has never been pablisbed. 62 45° from the meridiaD, which improves the appearance of the map, and does not consume the time necessary for mathematical hachuriug.* NAEEOW-GAUGE RAILWAYS. Since the writing of my preliminary report in the fall of 1869, much iuformatiou has been gathered and progress made in the introduction of narrow-gauge railways into this country. Sev- eral narrow-gauge tracks have been constructed, notably those iu Utah reaching from Bingham City to a point in Cache Valley at the north ; from American Fork, and to the vicinity of the mines in the American Fork Caiion ; in Colorado, from Denver to Pueblo, known as the Denver and Kio Grande Railway, and from Golden City to Central City, and to Floyd's Hill and Clear Creek CaSon, These roads prove available and economical. The latter relation applies to their con- struction and repair, and to the current expenses of the road. Tlie highest grade reached on the American Fork road is two hundred and ninety-six feet per mile. This has been found practicable with ordinary traction-engines. Considerable has been written as to the utility of introducing narrow-gauge roads as a means of transit for jjassengers and freight. Nothing definite appears to have been decided upon as to the width of track, size and power of engine, accommodations for passengers, the capacity of freight-cars, &c., most desirable to answer all the wants of a varied travel and traffic. It is a notable sign of the spirit of the times, however, that the Erie Road, long run upon the wide gauge similar to that first introduced into England, where latterly with success narrow gauges have been introduced, has made arrangements to change its gauge so that it may be uniform with the ordinary broad-gauge roads of the country. In my belief, the introduction of this class of tracks, not exceeding three feet in width, with rolling-stock to match, will mark an era of competition among lines of transportation most beneficial to interior commercial interests. WHEELER'S PEAK. This name has been given to the most elevated point of the Snake range, which is one of the highest crests between the Sierra Nevada and Wahsatch. It was found by careful barometric observations to be thirteen thousand and sixty-three feet above sea-level ; corroborated by angles of elevation taken from points whose altitudes were determined barometrically, thereby checking errors that are likely to arise from the use of barometric results at such large altitudes. Some peaks iu the Uintah range, I am informed, have been found by the geological survey of the 40th parallel to exceed fourteen thousand feet ; others on the Humboldt range approximate thirteen thousand feet, but none are found to exceed that height. Our party, consisting of Rev. Mr. White, acting geologist. State of Nevada ; Lieutenant Lock- wood, Messrs. Hamel and Rahskopff, and the guide, Mr. Butterfiekl, all succeeded in reaching the top on the morning of the second day, having left camp at Rattlesnake Springs at 2 p. m. Messrs. White, Lockwood, and myself reached the summit at 8 p. m. same evening, but were obliged to return to the limit of vegetation for food and fuel. Meteorological observations were taken during the day, as well as those for time and latitude; the latter have doubtless seldom been attempted at a greater altitude. The party by mutual con- sent, and at the suggestion of Professor White, proposed that hereafter this point should be called Wheeler's Peak,t which name has been adopted upon the map. REPORT OF LEEUT. D. W. LOCKWOOD, Headquakters Departjvient of Calipoenia, Sa7i Francisco, Cal., January 25, 1870. Sir : I have the honor to submit the following report of special reconnaissances made under my charge, in compliance with instructions received from you at various times during the progress of your exploration from the White Pine mining district to the Colorado River, and return ; the * Several manuscript maps have been prepared, the iuformatiou upon which has been introduced upon the later atlas-sheets or may be made available iu further publications. tThis peak has been called iudiscrimiuately, on published maps, Uuion or Jeff Davis Peak. 63 first being from Cave Valley, near Patterson, to tbc Muddy Eiver via Hyko, and undertaken in obedience to tbe following order: Camp neajc Cave, Cave Valley, Nevada, Jugutl 31, 18C9. Special Field Orders, ) No. 10. S Lieut. U. W. Lockwood, United States Engineers, will proceed from the Cave in Cave Valley to make a careful reconnaiH.sanco of tlio country duo .south, pasdinj; through Paliianagat Valley to Saint ThomaH, at junction of Virgin and Muddy Rivers. Mr. Ivah.MkiiiilV will act as topographer. Thu auilmlance driven by Davis and the heavy wagon driven by James Kelly will accompany him. The followiug-namcd soldiers will act as escort, &c. : Corporal Augustine Myers, Company H, Eighth United States Cavalry ; Privates William Kauisay and Otto Behrcnd, Company 1, Twelfth Infantry, and Marion Minnel, Kdward Leach, Kdnnind Wildenmuth, Charles M. Jones, James Smith, John Kelly, and ITrancis Johnson, Comjiany II, Eighth United istates Cavalry. Geo. M. WiiKELEU, Lifulenanl of Eiitjineert. As directed, I left camp at the Cave on the morning of the 1st of September, 1869, and taking a southeasterly course, crossed the Egau range of mountains through a somewhat high and dillicult pass, entering Sierra Valley near Butterfield Springs, at which place the first camp was made, dis- tant about twenty-one miles from the camp at the Cave. The SieiTa Creek takes its ri.se near this point, and is fed by a series of springs, .some cold and others warm, which break in the foot-hills on the western slope of the Egau mountains. The warm springs are about one mile south of the first camp. The couutry in this vicinity is of a very alkaline character, and the creek, after continuing for tweuty-five or thirty miles down the valley, sinks ; its whole course being marked by a heavy growth of tales. The sink varies in locality at difterent seasons of the year, being due to the varying quantity of water supplied by the springs. The original bed of the creek extends for some distance below where there are any indications of water Laving been within a recent time- The road down the valley skirts along the foot-hills, and, crossing the dry bed of the creek, passes over a low divide, entering Coal Valley. There are few indications of a road leading from the creek to the divide, however, while a clear and distinct track leads t)lV to the left through a perfectly desert valley, about thirty miles iu extent. By reason of some misunderstanding of tbe directions given by the guide, the latter-mentioned road was taken, and tlu^ result was that, after making a march of over thirty miles, a portion of the train was at liiitterlield Sjirings again, and the remain- der at the .sink, having been compelled to turn back, the mules having given out, so that the heavy wagon was left in the desert twenty-five miles away. This nutrch occupied two days, and was made without forage or water for the aninuils. The next move was down the course of the creek, and from thence across couutry to the main road leading to Simmond's Springs. This latter course is uudoid)tedIy the best one for wagons not too heavily loaded, as the distance from Butterfield Springs to Simmond's Springs is tiK) great a distance for one day's march by the regular road, and, althougli the way by the crerk is a trifle greater, the distance between the watering-places is less. Simmond's Spring is of very little account during the summer, as the supply of water is very limited and of poor quality. From this point the road turns otf somewhat to the west, and, crossing a broken range of mount- ains by an extremely ditUcult pass, comes out iuto Pahranagat Valley, tiie upper portion of whi(;h is nothing but a heavy sandy wash. Owing to the many delays that had already occurred, it was not until late in the night of the flth of September that the whole party had arrived at Hylvo, which by regular marches, with every- thing in good order, ought to have been accomplished iu four days. HYKO. The village of Hyko is situated near Hyko Spring, and contained at this time from two hun- dred and fifty to throe huiulred souls, including the miners at Silver Canon. The population varies continually with the mining excitements .si)ringing up in ditferent parts of the State. The same might be said of the town itself, as at the breaking out of the White Pine excitement houses were taken to pieces and transported entire to the latter place. The Hyko Silver Mining Company owns nearly all the mines in the district, and has erected a 64 fine ten-stamp mill, with all the modern improvements, for milling silver-ores. The supply of water is ample, and the only disadvantage connected with the mining interests of this district is the distance of the mines from the mill, which cannot probably be obviated. The mines are located to the east of Great Quartz Mountain, and extend in an almost continu- ous line of cropping for the distance of five miles to the south. The ore is generally of a rather low grade, but can be obtained in almost any quantity, so that in case the cost of milling can be reduced to a reasonable figure, there is every prospect of success for the comjiany, which has done so much to develop the interest, in every respect, of the district and surrounding country. The distance from the mines to the mill is about twelve miles. The ranches, lower down the valley, furnish forage and provisions sufficient for the maintenance of a much larger settlement, and prices are consequently very reasonable. Plenty of timber is found in the vicinity of Great Quartz Mountain, and the foot-hills on either side of the valley are, as a general thing, covered with a fine growth of bunch-grass. So much time having already elapsed since leaving the Cave, it was not deemed advisable to make a longer delay here than was positively necessary ; for this reason, I was unable to visit the mines, and on the morning of the 11th started down the valley, passing Crystal Spring, estimated to flow one thousand five hundred inches; Ash Spring, two thousand inches ; and at night camped at a point on the road a short distance above the lake, near a small spring of brackish water. Throughout the day the road had led by a succession of ranches which all api^eared to be in a thriving condition ; barley, wheat, potatoes, and melons being the principal productions. The valley is from three-fourths to one and one-half miles wide, and in consequence of the great supply of water from the various springs along its whole extent, and the steady fall to the south, irrigation is rendered comparatively easy. The lower portion of the valley is much more alkaline than near the village, while below the lake, which is very strongly alkaline, there is very little cultivatable land. Coyote Springs were reached on the evening of the 12th, but a delay of one day was rendered necessary in consequence of the heavy character of the road, part of the load of the heavy wagon not getting into camp until the night of the 13th. At this place very little grass was to be found, and that of a character not suited to what was needed for animals that were so reduced as those in the train were by this time ; the water was of a very poor quality, being stagnant, of a greenish color, and filled with insects and tadpoles. A very curious feature of these springs is that in the different holes that have been dug on the slope where the springs are located, the water does not stand at the same level, although in some cases the holes are separated only by a distance of ten feet and even less. The next march was to what are termed the Pockets, the water being that which has fallen dui'ing the rainy season and collected in a narrow caiion, through which the wash from the Hyko Lake to the Muddy runs ; it was very muddy and literally alive \yith tadpoles. \No grass whatever was found here. The next day's march was to West Point, on the Muddy Eiver, over a rough mountain road and through heavy sandy washes. The road passes around Arrow Canon, leaving it to the right. This caiion is one through which the main wash runs, and is so named from the fact that the Indians of this vicinity, in passing through it, always shoot an arrow into a cleft in the rocks high up, for some superstitious reason that I was unable to learn. The road after reaching the valley of the Muddy is good until reaching West Point, four miles farther down. There can be no doubt but that the real headwaters of the Muddy Eiver are at and near Hyko, as the heavy wash from Hyko Lake down to the Muddy Springs shows that formerly a considerable body of water must have passed down to the Colorado Eiver by this course. There are also indications of water existing at no great depth in several places along the dry, gravelly bed of the wash, as shown by willows growing and remaining green during the extreme heat of the summer. The temperature of the water at Hyko Spring is about 78° Fahrenheit, while at the Muddy Springs it is 87°. Upon leaving camp at the Cave it had been deemed certain that a junction would be effected with the main party before the 15th September, and in consequence rations had been taken for only 65 fifteeu days, so that upon arriving at West roiiit on the evening of tlie loth the supplies were nearlj- exhausted, and no news had been heard regarding the whereabouts of your eoniuiand. Scarcely anything in the way of subsistence stores could be obtained of the Mormons; their cattle, of which they had (jnite a number, being prized too highly to admit of their ever killingone, unless for some possible reason which, unfortunately lor us, was not considered to exist while wc were there. They had no bacou to sell, and apparently but very little bad ever been in the town, mid that brought them by parties traveling south. Tlie only articles, in fact, t'lat conld be obtained were water-melons and squashes. WEST POINT is situated about five miles down the valley from Muddy Springs, on a low mesa near the river. The houses as a general thing arc made of small willows wattled together. The inhabitants appear to be of the lowest class, and but little superior to the Indians of the vicinity, so far as general cleanli- ness is concerned. They cultivate the bottomlands near the town and use the ujjper portion of the valley for grazing. The crops did not appear to be very large, but will increase in time by cultiva- tion, as the alkali in the soil, in this way is, to a certain extent, eliminated. No potatoes to speak of have as yet been grown at this settlement. On the morning of the IGth September we left camj) at West Point and proceeded down the valley, the road running near the river until reaching a point about four miles below, where the road from Salt Lake to Los Angeles crosses the Muddy. Here the river runs through .several narrow, precipitous canons, and the road passes around through the hills. Tlie sand was so deep and heavy that the wagon had to be jiaitly unloaded, and even then, after i)roceeding about half a mile, the mules gave out completely, and I was reluctantly conipcllod to turn back and encamp near the river, at which place we were wiien, in the afternoon ui>on your arrival, you assumed command, KKCAPITULATION. KOAUS. The road from the Cave to the Jluddy Jviver is quite practicable for wagons not heavily loaded, and the Journey can lie made readily enough in .seven or eight days provided the animals can have grain. At most of the places grass can be found, although in some instances, as at Simmond's Spring, it is some distance from where the camp would usually be made. The hardest marches are from the slough of the Sierra Creek to Simmond's Spring, and from Coyote S]uing to the ^luddy. The pass to the north of Byko is very difficult in places, but by partly unloading and making an extra trip, the march may be accomplished. The heavy sand below llyko Lake will always render this portion of the route very severe, as the steady, constant strain ujion the teams soon tells upon them. AVATICI!. At Butterlield Springs, along Sierra Creek, throughout Jlyko \alley, and at the Pockets, (generally,) there is plenty of water. At Simmond's and Coyote Springs there is usually sufficient for only eight or, at most, ten animals, and iu case of much travel not enough for that number, as the water only collects slowly. There is more or less alkali at all the places mentioned, and it has a very bad elVect upon animals not aecnstomed to drinking water im])regnated with it. GRASS. The ordinary bunch variety is found generally throughout the whole route, growing in nearly all eases upon the foothills, iu some instances at a considerable distance from the camp.s. The whole course of Sierra Creek affords plenty of grass, but it is of an alkaline character, and, to animals unaccu-stomed to it, furnishes very little sustenance. At Simmond's Springs none was found, although 1 was told there was bunch-grass within a mile or two. Tliroughout Ilyko Aalley there is an abundance, but alkaline and <|uite poor. At Coyote Springs there is very little, and at the Pockets none whatever. The grass throughout the valley of the Muddy is .similar to that in llyko Valley, y vv 66 WOOD. Tbe iiass tbrougli tlie Egau range shows a consiilcrablc. growth of uut-piiie and scnib-ceilar ; the same is true of the pass to the north of Hyko, and generally of the mountains along the whole route, although the amount is less as progress is made toward the south. Pine timber, suitable for sawing, is found upon the high peak near the mill, in the Egan Pass, and to the west of Ilyko, a sb'ort distance from the mines. The Mormons obtain their timber, to a certain extent, from a place about forty or fifty miles from the Pockets ; the road leading thereto branches off to the west at a point a little to the north of that place. CULTIVATABLE LAND. But very little land fit for cultivation was found before reaching Hyko, although, possibly, one or two hundred acres near Butterfield Spring might be so classified. Throughout nearly the whole extent of Hyko Valley, for about twenty-five miles below Hyko, the land can be farmed profitably, and as the valley is from a lialf to one and a half miles in width, there is a very fair chance for successful ranching. The valley of the Muddy can be cultivated in several places, although the upper portion is very alkaline. At present only a portion of it, in the vicinity of West Point, is tilled. Astronomical observations were taken from time to time, when possible, for latitude and longitude. Barometrical observations were taken throughout the trip. Should it ever be deemed necessary to establish a military post in this part of the country, the most eligible location would, in my opinion, be in Hyko Valley, as it possesses all the requisites for the establishment and maintenance of a post. Eespectfully submitted. D. W. LOCKWOOD, Lieutenant of Engineers. . Lieut. Geo. M. Wheelee, United States Engineer Officer, Department of California, San Francisco, CaL Headquaktees Depaetjlent of Calipoenia, San Francisco, California, January 25, 1870. SiE : I have the honor to make the following report of a trip from Las Vegas Eanch to Potosi, in the Yellow Pine District, undertaken in compliance with verbal instructions received from you a few days previous. On the morning of the 12th October, 18C9, 1 left camp at Las Vegas, taking one ambulance and three men, and Mr. Hamcl, topographer. The road taken was the old Salt Lake road, running in a southwesterly direction until reaching a point about five miles from Potosi, when the trail leading to the latter place branches off to the south. The first night's camp was made at the Cot- touwoods, a spring at the head of Las Vegas Wash. These springs rise and sink at several places, and receive their name from the cottonwoods growing near. The next day's march took us to Potosi. roTOSi. This camp was established some years previous to the date of our arrival, and traces of former habitations were visible all around ; the original settlement was said to have been broken up by the Indians. A smeltingfurnace had formerly been erected, but failed, in consequence of the operators not understanding the proper method of separating the precious metal (silver) from the complication of l)aseuietals which exist in the ore taken from the principal mine worked, namelj', the Old Potosi. 67 Only one small spring is foiuul hero, insutlicioat for siqiplv of ii mill. The present locators of claims in this district were at work on the Potosi mine, which was visited and found to be a regu- lar, well-defined ledge, situated high upon the western slope of the mountains. The ledge crops out from an almost i)erpendicnlar clilV, and shows a width of ten or twelve feet, and has been stripped for about live hundred feet. The ore, which consists of galena, antimony, arsenic, and silver, occurs in large, irregular masses, in some cases beautifully crystallized, and assays, by actual working, about six hundred dollars in silver to the ton. Some of the ore had. I believe, been sent to the lead-works in Han Francisco, and there reduced. Other claims had been located in the district, but none of them had been opened sntliciently to enable one to define their character, so far as forniRtion was concerned. The few miners engaged here were taking out the galena ore in quantities sutlicient to supply a furnace all the time, and, although their receipts in money amounted to practically nothing, they seemed confident of suc- cess, which, under the most favorable circumstances that may occur, must be regarded as a ques- tion admitting of a great deal of doubt. Supplies have to be hauled a long distance, over the worst kind of roads, and the want of water necessary for carrying on operations on an extensive scale will always be a great drawback here. Wood in great abundance is found on the mountain slopes in the vicinity, principally nut pine. Bunch grass grows near at hand. The next morning we started back for Las Vegas, taking the same road as before, arriving at the Cottonwoods in the afternoon, and receiviug infonnation that two .soldiers had deserted from Las Vegas. I went on that night, ami reached camp about midnight, when I discovered that Pri- vates Murran and Leach had deserted on the morning of the 14th, and taken with them five ani- mals, the best ones left at that time. Pursuit was ordered, but the worn-out condition of the horses and mules would not allow of our overtaking them. Ivespectfully submitted. I). W. LOCKWOOD, Lieutenant of Engineers. Lieut. George M. Wheeler, United States Em/ineers, Heaihiuartcrs Department of California, San Francisco, California. Sir: 1 have the honor to submit the following report of a trip from Quinu Cauou to Monte Christo Mill, via Keveille, Hot Creek, and Morey ]\Iiniug District, made by me in compliance with verbal instructions received from you November 12, ISGO. As directed, 1 left camp at Quinn Canon in tiie afternoon of the above-mentioned day, and en- camped that night at Red Blutf S[>rings, the uortheastern corner of Lincoln County, Nev. The next morning the odometer-cart, driven by Private John Smith, was .sent on to Twin Springs by the regular road, while Jlr. Piuhskoptf and my.self started for Itcveille, taking the trail leading across the valley. But one wagon had ever been over it, and that was to take a loail of ore to Hyko to be reduced ; the track was found to be very sandy. REVEILLE. situated on the Iveveille range of mountains, was reached (piite late in the afternoon, so that it was found imi)racticable to visit the mines; such information as I was able to obtain with regard to the district was due to the kindness of the recorder of the district. There had been at the time about four hundred and sixty locations made, principally contained in a space about six miles in length and two in w idth. The principal locations are near each other, and are all, so far as had then been determined, deposits. No indication of a fissure-vein or regular ledges had been discovered, and generally, the same showing existed here as at White Pine, some of the specimens being almost exactly similar to those shown at the latter place, coutaining horn-silver in very considerable quantities. The principal claims are the Park, assaying from .*S800 to 81,400 per ton; De.sert 68 m Queeu, $500 per ton ; Sweepstakes, Montrose, Queen of the West, and some others, raugiug in value, from SlOO to $300 per ton. The results given were those obtained by actual milling, the ore being carefully selected, as it had to be hauled a considerable distance to the mill. The mines are quite high up on the mountains. The country rock is doloinitic in its character, witht>ut stratitication. Tiio decomposition of the feldspar in the i)or|)hyritic mountains which surround the doloinitic range in which the mines are located, has caused the formation in several places of beds of alum, some of considerable extent, particularly the one a little north of the camp. Water is obtained iu sufficient quantity for the use of the camp by digging wells near at hand in the porphyry; a few miles away plenty can be obtaineil. Wood and grass are found a short 4listance away. A mill was iu process of construction on the opposite side of the valley, to the west. On the morning of the 13th we left for Hot Creek, about forty miles away, passing by Tvrin Springs, where the odometer cart was. To this point there is only a trail, and a very difficult one ; the main road was here taken and followed on to Hot Creek, which place Avas reached about S p. m. The valley lying between Reveille and Hot Creek Jlountains is a large alkali flat in places, and has a steady fall to the south and east from Hot Creek, and opens into the vallej- lying east of the Reveille range through a break in the mountains a little east of Twin Springs. HOT CEEEK. Very little of anything was being done at this district beyond rebuilding a ten stamp mill, which had been partially burned down. The company known as the Hot Creek or Old Dominion, which formerly owned the mill, failed some time ago, the ore from the mines worked, namely, the jS'orfolk, Old Dominion, and some others, not paying as soon as any depth was reached. At the time, considerable excitement, purely local, however, existed with regard to some mines recently discovered in Rattlesnake Cafion, about five or six miles to the south ; the principal mines located being the Wyomiug, Philadelphia, and Pure Metal ; some of the ore showing a great amount of copper. The specimens shown were not of a character to cause much enthusiasm. One great peculiarity of this region is the Hot Spring, from which the town takes its name, situated near the eastern opening of the steep canon, which runs through the mountains at this point. These springs flow continuously, the water containing snl^ihur and iron. In some cases, springs of cold water are found in close proximity to the hot ones, which appear to break out from between the limestone and porphyry. MOKEY DISTRICT. The next day Morey District was reached, situated quite high up in the mountains, about fifteen miles to the north of Hot Creek. The weather was very severe here, particularly at night ; water freezing, the animals suffered greatly in consequence. The mines were visited and carefully examined the next day, and were found to be true fissure- veins, with nearly a uniform dip and strike, the former being i.jo to 50'= to the east, the latter 53° west. Considerable more had been done here; shafts had been sunk to different depths, running- down generally on the inclines, the character of the ore remaining nearly unchanged, the amount iu sulphuret, however, increasing. The ore is of a soft, friable nature in most cases, composed of bromides, chlorides, and sulphurets, the chlorides being found principally in pockets. The base metals are iron pyrites, and some antimony. The Magnolia and Eagle are the two principal mines, and iu these the soft, friable nature of the ore is particularly noticeable; in those cases where much pyrites is found the ore is harder aud more compact. The mines are situated in a small hill at the foot of a high peak, and the veins can, in places, be traced by croppings for several hundred feet along the surface. Assays have been made ranging from $300 to $1,100 per ton, although the milling value of the ore does not, as a matter of course, run so high. Water is obtained near at hand from springs, and I think that by constructing a dam across the narrow canon, sufficient could be obtained to supply a mill during most of the year. 69 Wood and grass are Ibuiid near tlu- caiiii>. Chinese miners are employed licre, and are found to get along very well ; their expenses of living being much less than those of white miners, the wages are consequently smaller. On the morning of the 17th we left for Jlonte Christo Mill, taking a trail across the mountains to the ro.'.d running frcm Hot Croek to White Tine, and encamped at night at Sand Springs. Next day went on to Yoknm's, passing Duck Water, a settlement of considerable size; the creek of the same name has its origin in a large spring north of the road, and si)reads out over a large tract of land, where hay iu great ((uantities is cut each year, most of it (inding a rea on overland road. Fine camp ; plent.v water, wood, and gra^s. Good camp ; plent.v water, wood, and grass. Fine camp ; good grazing : pure water. Water, good grazing; no wwid. Do, Watrr, sliort supply; little hunch-grass ; no wood. Mining town; good accommodation. Water and grjii*s: wood scjircp. Alkali water; little grass; no wood. Do. Gooilcamp; wood scarce; water and grass plenty. Mormon settlement ; gowl accommodation. Scant grazing; little wood ; poor place. Not known. Grazing good; water excellent ; line camp. Grazing ami water good; wood scarce. Cavalry camp; lino accommodation, ^[iniug town of considerable size. Note. — In case further developments prove that the distances marked " estimated " iu the above table are on feasible route-s, the above line of communication will be the practicable one of the future for through travel from Central Pacific IJailroad to Northern Arizona. All distances, except those marked "estimated," were measured during the trip. 70 Table No. 2.— Distances from Elko, on Central Pacific Ilailroad, to Frescott, Jrh., via Jfhifc Pine, PoUroad («//r. Telegraph station ; good aeconimodation. Itanch ; no wood; good accommodation. Stage station; no extra water; poor acromni(M]iition. Quart/, mill; grazing and water. Hull CrcM-k ; no grass or wood. No station; no grazing; no wood. Mining camp ; wood plenty ; water scarce. Mining town in Pahranagat Valley. Good camp ; water and gras-s plenty. Water had and in small ui Brig. Okn. K. O. C. 1ll>, tt\-T. HAJ. C.ES. V. a. AUIIY, COllMANniNO nKFARTMEXT OF OAUFOR.SIA. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1875. =/s- \ V '»V*!' V mzz-j^^mm^: '^^P} y^w^ mmm& r^.W:'4^r :v;v.^,^,W^i'' K.ffli'?rffi#^^ f^^0^^. '^y\j Uv';^:\ tViVjV^S I^Il^ m M>!t;^:^^;>^.v.h OWwU'0\ ^h^i^^^H^^^ y'' v^^y' VUW VW:^^V,V. ^' V; U,' M' tJi: W.V'.W '«v7MV! -yyUui -. ^ V, y 5' ^^\jU^ /. H i I IMMM jv A ;W' k .■•*■ ,^'< ■J^^ '^^ "•^> ,^^' O o,'^" v1 - ■i' %*, ^J- V V A. ,/., ■J .<,V ', ^'QS*?- s" ,1 V .<«_ ^ >o^^. *>. * » . > " .^'^ .>3^ "^^^ ^^ <^' "^, ■^c.,^^ : vX^^ ^>>. 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