F 970 .V85 I Copy 1 •RYTHING ABOUT OUR NEW ^SESSIONS BY [^1 TH08. J. VIVIAN AND RUEL R SMITH 16^9. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. Chai)£5.7.a'opyri£fht No UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. EVERYTHmG ABOUT Our New Possessions. Being a Handy Book ON CUBA, PORTO RICO, HAWAII, AND THE PHILIPPINES. •_V'" BY ,^\ THOMAS J. VIVIAN AND RUEL P^'SMITH. NEW YORK : R. F. FENNO & CO. 1899. COPYRIGHTED 189Q, BY R. F. FENNO & CO ■) frf>»" ^N ^1 J) tr INTRODUCTION. T'HERE is not one fact nor statement in this book that cannot be found in some other authoritative book or official document. BUT the books and documents from which these facts and statements are taken would form a library of scores of volmnes, with thousands of pages, and costing many dollars; while this is a liandy book of but a fezv pages and costs but a trifle. Yet it contains all that is of value to the man ivho seeks information on our New Posses- sions. The search for, extraction and arrangement of that in- formation have taken months of hard, troublesome, tiring ivork. BUT from this handy book a man may get that infor- mation in a minute, at a glance. It is for these reasons, because it means the saving of time, labor and money, that it is believed this little vol- ume will be valuable. PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. As to NUMBER and AREA. It is estimated that there are about 2,000 islands in the group. New ones are being continually added to the maps. A part of the archipelago is unexplored. The principal islands are : Luzon, Mindanao, Pala- wan, Paragua, Samar, Panay, Mindoro, Leyte, Ne- gros, Cebu, Masbate, Bohol, Catanduanes, Polillo, Marinduque, Tablas, Burias and Ticao. Luzon, the largest, has 41,000 square miles Mindanao has 37,5oo " " Palawan has 10,000 " " The next four have, each 10,000 " ** Aggregate land area of the group. 1 14,356 " " For comparison: Virginia 42,450 square miles Pennsylvania 45,215 " " The total area of the group is equal to the combined area of Pennsylvania, Virginia, New Hampshire, Maryland and Connecticut, and is about a thousand square miles larger than the Territory of Arizona. The area of the mainland of Spain is 191,365 square Our New Possessions. miles. The comparative figures give an adequate idea of what that country has lost in the PhiHppines. The Philippine Islands form a great part of the vast archipelago lying southeast of Asia. They cover about 1,000 miles north and south and 600 miles east and west. They extend from 5 degrees 32 minutes to 19 degrees 38 minutes north latitude, and from 17 degrees to 126 degrees east longitude. On the north and northwest the islands are sepa- rated from China by the China Sea and the Indo- Chinese Peninsula. Toward the east is the Pacific. On the north small islands stretch out toward For- mosa. On the south a double connection is formed with Borneo by the line of the Palawan, Balabac and Sulu islands. AstoPGPULATION* Total estimated population of the islands. . . .8,000,000 Spaniards 20,000 English, American and other foreign people (about) 5,000 Most of the tribes are of Malay origin. Besides these are Tagolos, Ygorotes, Aetas, Negritos, pure blacks, Chinese, Japanese, Indios, Moors and mixed races. Some 500 languages and dialects are spoken. In the as yet inaccessible parts of the islands there are unsubdued savage tribes, estimated at about 600,- 000 in number. The most primitive are the Negritos, a race of Philippine Islands. 9 dwarf blacks. They are confined to the higher moun- tain ranges in Luzon and Negros. On first arrival the Spaniards found a part of the natives somewhat civilized; but while they had a written language, of which some specimens have been preserved, it proved to be of no value in throw- ing light upon their early history. Their traditions are few and their folk lore has not impressed itself on any Spanish historian. The Philippine Malays are a superior race to many other Asiatic peoples ; they take life easy and are in the main easy of control, when not wrought upon by scheming leaders. The natives are all born gamblers, and cock fight- ing is their principal pastime. Every town has its cockpit. /The Spaniards have taken advantage of this passion as a means of extorting heavy taxes, and the government has conducted a lottery to take ad- vantage of the islanders' habit of gaming.' They are fond of music, dancing and amusements of all kinds. As to CLIMATE. In the Region of Manila. Hottest season from March to June Hottest month May Maximum temperature in May. from 80 to 100 degrees Coolest season December and January Temperature in coolest season, from 60 to 65 at night ; 75 by day Mpst delightful season, .from November to February 10 Our New Possessions, U. S. Weather Bureau's Compilation, Covering FROM 7 TO 32 Years : Temperature^ degrees Fahrenheit: Mean annual 80 degrees Warmest month 82 " Coolest month 79 " Highest 100 " Lowest 60 " Humidity: Relative per cent 78 Absolute grains per cubic foot 8.75 Wind movements in miles: Daily mean 134 Greatest daily 204 Least daily 95 Prevailing wind direction — NE., November to April ; SW., May to October. Cloudiness, annual per cent 53 Days with rain 135 Rainfall in Inches: Mean annual. 75-43 Greatest monthly 120.98 Least monthly 55.65 Philippine Islands. II The following is the mean temperature for the three seasons, at points specified : Cold. Hot. Wet. Manila 7^ 87 84 degrees Cebu 75 86 75 Davao 86 88 87 Sulu 81 82 83 " Owing to the extreme length of the archipelago from north to south there is a great variety of cli- mate, but the general characteristics are those of the tropics. Seasons vary with the prevailing monsoons, or trade winds, and are classed as "wet" and "dry." The Spanish describe the seasons as "six months of mud," "six months of dust," and "six months of everything." The northern islands lie in the track of the ty- phoons, which, developing in the Pacific, sweep over the China Sea from northeast to southwest during the southwest monsoon. They may be looked for at any time between May and November, but it is dur- ing the months of July, August and September that they are most frequent. Early in the season the northern region feels the greatest force, but as the season advances the ty- phoon gradually works southward, and the danger- ous time at Manila is about the end of October and the beginning of November. Typhoons rarely, if ever, pass south of 9 degrees north latitude. Thunderstorms of great violence are frequent in May and June, before the commencement of the rainy season. During July, August, September and Octo- ber the rains are very heavy. The rivers and lakes 12 Our New Possessions. then overflow, flooding large tracts of the low coun- try. The typhoon is the most interesting and the most terrible of storms. It is a great, revolving circle of tempest, varying from 40 to 130 miles of exterior circle and with an inner or comparatively calm core of from 8 to 15 miles. The entire great storm field moves across the sea at the rate of about 14 miles an hour. Seamen note the approach of these hurricanes by clouds that look like fine hair, or feathers, or small tufts of white wool, traveling from east or north; a slight rise in the barometer; clear and dry weather, and light winds. Then quickly follow the usual threats of storm ; the wind comes in sharp, violent gusts, and a long, heavy swell, confused and broken, rolls ahead of its path. If the barometer falls rapidly then the navigator must decide quickly whether to try to sail across the face of the storm and escape it, or to heave to, in accordance with well defined rules, adapted to whichever semi-circle of the storm must be encountered. The sea, encircled by the great wind disc, is tossed into mountainous heaps with incredible quickness; the fury of the winds is almost indescribable. As to DISTANCES. San Francisco to Manila 8,iii statute miles. New York to Manila 11,361 " " Cadiz, Spain, to Manila I0,e°° " Philippine Islands. 13 As to COST and TIME in GETTING THERE. Time — By Way of the Suez Canal. New York to London — American Line, Southampton Service 7 «lays. London to Hong Kong — Peninsular and Ori- ental Line 4° Hong Kong to Manila— Local Steamer Ser- vice 3 Total— New York to Manila 50 " Cost — By Way of the Suez Canal. New York to Hong Kong— First class, through rate $434-00 Hong Kong to Manila 35oo Total cost New York to Manila, first class $469.00 New York to Hong Kong, second class 248.50 The Suez route Is by way of Southampton, Gibral- tar, Mediterranean and Indian ports to Hong Kong and Manila. The through rate is much cheaper than the regular fares, each line making a reduction. Berths should be engaged in advance at New York on the Peninsular and Oriental Line. 14 Our New Possessions. Time — By Way of San Francisco. New York to San Francisco 6 days San Francisco to Hong Kong — Pacific Mail or Oriental and Occidental lines 20 " Hong Kong to Manila 3 " Total— New York to Manila 29 " Cost — By Way of San Francisco. New York to Hong Kong, through rate $303.50 Hong Kong to Manila, " " 35.00 New York to Manila, through rate $338.50 The San Francisco route to Manila is by way of Honolulu, Yokohama, Nagasaki, Kobe, Shanghai and Hong Kong. The through rate is cheaper than the sum of the regular fares. Rates from New York, New Orleans and St. Louis to San Francisco are given in the division "Hawaiian Islands." Regular Rates — San Francisco to Manila. (Pacific Mail Steamship Co.) First class cabin, one way $270.00 Four months, round trip 412.50 Twelve months, round trip 468.75 Philippine Islands. 15 European servants accompanying families, one way $195.00 The same, four months, round trip 300.00 The same, twelve months, round trip 337-50 Asiatic servants accompanying famiHes, one way 50.00 The same, four or twelve months, reduced trip. 100.00 Missionaries and their families, first class, one ^"^^y 213.75 European servants of same, one way 157.50 Asiatic servants of same, one way 50.00 European steerage, one way 145.00 Asiatic steerage, one way 78.00 Children 5 and under 12 years, half rate; 2 and under 5 years, quarter rate ; under 2 years, free. Baggage allowance— 350 pounds each adult cabin passengers ; 233 pounds each servant ; 175 pounds each steerage passenger ; excess baggage, 3 cents a pound. Cabin passengers may, if they desire, stop over at Honolulu and proceed by a succeeding steamer of the Pacific Mail Co. or the Oriental and Occidental Steamship Co., without extra charge. As to PLPJL and CABLE SERVICE, In round numbers, it takes about four weeks for a letter, mailed at the New York Post-Office, to reach Manila. Mail goes by the way of San Francisco. The regular foreign rate, 5 cents for each half l6 Our New Possessions. ounce, is charged for letters ; merchandise, i cent an ounce up to four pounds. For soldiers and sailors only 2 cents an ounce letter postage is charged. From New York to Manila cablegrams go by way of the Suez, there being no Pacific cable. Messages from New York to Manila over the West- ern Union cable cost $2.10 a word. Among the important repeating stations between New York and Manila are Canso, N. S. ; Valentia, Ireland; London, Brest, France; Port Said, on the Suez; Aden, Arabia; Madras, India; Singapore and Hong Kong. AstoTRADE^ In the Matter of Exports. The principal staples of export are tobacco — manu- factured and raw — Manila hemp, sugar cane, coffee, cocoanuts and copra. The principal manufactures are hats, mats, baskets, ropes, furniture, coarse pottery, carriages and musi- cal instruments. EXPORTS FOR THE QUARTER ENDING DECEMBER 3I, 1897. Bales of hemp — 280 pounds per bale — to the United States 138,792 Bales of hemp — 280 pounds per bale — to Great Britain 78,106 Increase in the export of hemp in 1897 — bales. . 158,485 Philippine Islands. 17 Increase to the United States in 1897 — bales. .133,896 Decrease to Great Britain in 1897 — bales 22,348 Of increased shipments of hemp from the Philip- pines in 1897 those to the United States were 544 per cent, greater than to all other countries combined. Of the total exports of hemp from the Philippines for the ten years ended 1897, amounting to 6,528,965 bales, or 914,055 tons, 41 per cent, came to the United States. During these same years the islands exported to the United States and to Europe 1,582,903 tons of sugar. This was divided up as follows : To the United States 875,150 tons. To Great Britain 666,391 " To Continental Europe 41,362 " Of the total exports more than 55 per cent, came to the United States. For the ten years ended 1897 the value of the ex- ports of hemp and raw sugar to the United States amounted to $89,263,722.80, or an average of nearly $8,926,372 per year. Data as to cigars, tobacco, copra, woods, hides, shells, indigo, coffee, etc., are not obtainable in full, but a conservative estimate would so raise the above figures as to show United States imports from these islands to average about $1,000,000 per month. In the Matter of Imports. The chief imports are rice, flour, machinery, dress goods, wines, coal, petroleum. 1 8 Our New Possessions. According to a British Foreign Office report the imports in 1896 from several of the most important countries were in value as follows : Great Britain $2,467,090 Germany 744,928 France 1,794,900 Belgium 272,240 United States 162,446 China 103,680 In 1897 the Philippines received these imports : Cotton manufactures $1,524,622 Silk " 142,135 Woolen " 64,704 Apparel 109,588 Machinery 191,269 Metals and manufactures of 337,216 Coal 57,852 Provisions 118,538 Great Britain led all the other countries in its ex- ports to the Philippines. As to RAILROADS and TRAVEL. Only one railroad has been built, running from Manila to Pangasinan, 123 miles. It is a single track road, connecting the capital with the rice growing districts. Philippine Islands. 19 As to BUSINESS CHANCES, From Consular Report Sept. 16, j8g8. The Chinese, who are in the majority among the aliens, control the retail trade. Next to them come the Spanish dealers. There are about 300 other Europeans in business in the entire group. The richest dealers are the Creoles and Mestizos, a combination of Chinese and Tagalese. In Manila there are many large cigarette factories, some of which employ as many as 4,000 hands. A few German, Swiss and English firms have entered that field. There is a sugar refinery, a steam rice mill, a Span- ish electrical plant, a Spanish telephone exchange, a Spanish tramway, worked partly by steam and partly b}'' horse power; rope factories, worked mainly by hand (a few use oxen) ; a Spanish brewery, which furnishes a good beer ; a German cement factory with 70 hands; a Swiss umbrella factory; and a Swiss hat factory, which makes felt and straw articles, the lat- ter out of Chinese straw braid. A cotton mill with 6,000 spindles and with capital (English) of £40,000 ($194,600) is in process of erec- tion. The European firms in Manila are divided as fol- lows: Forty-five Spanish, 19 German, 17 English, 2 English and 6 Swiss brokers, 2 French storekeepers with large establishments, i Dutch, and i Belgian. Small retail stores (40 in number) are kept by Chi- nese firms. The German and Swiss firms are general impor- 20 Our New Possessions. ters, while the export of hemp and sugar, the import of domestic dry goods, and the ship chandlery trade are in the hands of the EngHsh. Credit from one to three months and 5 per cent, is given, while spot-cash sales command a discount of 7 per cent. Caution is advised in dealing with the Chinese merchants, as Manila has no mercantile register like Hong Kong. Cotton yarns are a heavy import article, so far mainly from Barcelona, by reason of the minimum Spanish tariff. The Spanish manufacturers have done what England, Germany and Switzerland have always refused to do, and that is to renumber the yarns. In Manila, No. 10 is sold numbered 24; No. 16 numbered 30; No. 18 numbered 32; No. 22 num- bered 49; No. 32 numbered 50, and No. 36 or 40 numbered 60. The orders given are for four-fifths unbleached and one-fifth bleached. Dyed yarn is bought in Nos. 20 and 32, in colors of orange, green and rose. Turkey red yarn, in the correct numbers 20 to 40, especially 32, used to come from Elberfeld ; but of late years Spain has managed to supply it. Bleached and unbleached shirtings and drills, from Manchester, are sold in large quantities, but of late the pieces have decreased in yards as well as in widths. The staples now are white shirtings, 26 inches wide and 36 yards long; gray T cloth, 25 inches wide and 215^ yards long; gray long cloth, 28 inches wide and 32 yards long; and gray drills, 25 inches wide and 27 yards long. Colored prints, 24 inches wide, with red ground and fancy crimps, are good sellers. Ginghams and chellass, for bed coverings, etc., common quality, in Philippine Islands. 21' large patterns with red ground— some with yellow or blue squares, some with indigo ground, and a few in green — in pieces of 24 yards, find a good market, while cotton cassinette, in light weight and double width, for trousers, is in demand. Handkerchiefs, 17 by 18 inches and 22 by 22 inches, white, or white with colored borders, are the "cor- rect thing." Black cotton zanellas, 185^ inches wide, for the dresses of the country women, and aniline black satins, in 45-inch goods, are considered stylish. Woven cotton underwear is a great staple, and white cotton bed quilts, in fancy patterns, are used as ponchos, after a hole has been cut in the centre. It is estimated that 500,000 dozen undershirts are used annually — two-third with arms half-length, sizes 34 to 40, 27 inches long, bleached white, striped, printed and network. Men's cotton socks, 9 to 11, and ladies' cotton hose, 8 to 9^, are the right sizes. Cheap cotton-lace pinta fichus are worn by all the women. Other articles which have a good sale are low- priced sewing machines, carriages and parts, enam- eled ware for cooking utensils, and, last but not least, American clocks, which now have a good foothold, and for which there is an increasing demand. In the Matter of Boots and Shoes. The latest customs statistics show that the imports of footwear for the year 1894 amounted to about $94,000. The United States did not figure in the tables showing this trade into the Philippines, yet the United States are the largest manufacturers of boots and shoes. 22 Our New Possessions. This trade was divided as follows : Value. Boots and shoes of leather and canvas $13,204 Boots and shoes of patent leather and calfskin. 50,796 Slippers and common shoes worn by Chinese. . 7,179 Footwear for children 23,114 Henry W. Gilbert, Consul, in his report dated Liege, July 5, 1898, advises our manufacturers to prepare for this trade with the islands. As to GOVERNMENT and LAWS. Until shortly before August 13, 1898, when Manila surrendered to the American forces, after a short land fight and bombardment, there was, in Madrid, a council of state for the Philippines, which had in charge "the interests of the colony," and which acted as an advisory board to the Minister of the Colonies. At Manila the administration of the government had for its head a Governor General, who was at the same time Captain General, Director and Inspector General of all arms and institutes ; he was also dele- gated Superintendent of Finances, President of the Administrative Council of the Ayuntamiento, Pro- tector of the Spanish Bank, etc., etc. Next to the Captain Generalship of Cuba this was the most lucra- tive post at the disposal of the home government. His jurisdiction also extended over the Mariana, or the Ladrone, islands, the Carolines, and the Pelew islands. Philippine Islands. 23 The islands were divided into four provinces and four military districts, and were governed by politico- military commanders. As to INSTITUTIONS. In the Matter of Religious Worship. The Roman Catholic is the established church in the Philippines. There is one Archiepiscopal See and three bishop- rics. Most of the ecclesiastical authority is in the hands of the various religious orders — Dominicans, Augus- tines, Franciscans, etc. As to CITIES, On the Island of Luzon. Manila is the capital of the Philippine Archipelago and of the Province of Manila. It was founded in 1571- It lies on the left bank of the mouth of Rio Pasig, about 25 miles from the entrance of the bay, and has 110,000 inhabitants. It is a fortified city, encircled by a wall with bas- tions and bulwarks, and a ditch and outer ditch where it does not front on the bay or river. The waters can be let in and thus isolate the city. The streets are straight, well paved and illumi- nated. Prominent among its buildings are the gov- 24 Our New Possessions. €rnor*s palace, the royal court of chancery and the Convent of San Augustin, with its handsome church ; the church and convent of the Recollects of San Francisco, whose buildings occupy an immense space; the royal college and pontifical university of St. Thomas, which is spacious, well constructed and possesses a notable physical laboratory; the munic- ipal atheneum, in charge of the Jesuits, with a physi- cal laboratory, natural history museum, and a magni- ficent apparatus for astronomical observations ; the military hospital, with room for i,ooo beds, and the spacious and well-attended hospital of San Juan de Dios. Among the buildings ruined in the earthquake of 1863, some of which are being reconstructed and others already so, are the cathedral and the customs building. The real nucleus of the population of Manila is in its suburbs. These comprise the pueblos, or towns, of Binondo, San Jose, Santa Cruz, Quiapo, San Miguel, Sampaloc and Tondo. The neighborhoods of these suburbs are delightful and picturesque, with rivers, lagoons, creeks, islands and little hamlets. Bridges connect these suburbs with Manila. The suburb of Binondo is the most mercantile of the archipelago ; here were centered the Spanish con- trol of the revenues and monopolies ; here are the gen- eral tobacco warehouses, and here were administered the finances of the province. The streets of Binondo are narrow, but the houses tastefully and well built. North of Binondo, separated by a river spanned by several bridges, is the suburb of Tondo, extending to the west of the bay, on flat, sandy ground. The houses are in general constructed of cane and nipa — Philippine Islands. 25 a species of palm with feathery leaves. The streets are narrow, but there is a handsome church, a small theatre and a market place. Northeast of Binondo is the suburb of Santa Cruz, with good buildings, a flower market, theatre, public jail, etc. Northeast of Manila, and at the extremity of the suburb of Santa Cruz, is the suburb of Quiapo, with good houses, well aligned streets and a pretty market place. There is a suspension bridge here over the Pasig measuring 350 feet long by 23 feet wide. The suburb of San Miguel is situated to the east of Manila on the opposite bank of the Pasig River, and is connected with Quiapo by a wooden bridge. It has good buildings and a comfortable and well ventilated barracks. Along the river are a number of villas, the last one being called Malacamang, until recently the residence of the supreme Spanish au- thority of the archipelago. It consists of a palace, divided into two parts, surrounded by gardens. On the island of San Andres, in the centre of the river Pasig, is the convalescent hospital, the San Jose poorhouse and the insane asylum. To the northeast of Manila, adjoining it and front- ing on the river bank, is the place known as Arro- ceros — the rice mills — where are located extensive tobacco factories, one of which employs 7,000 women ; the botanical gardens, the Spanish theatre and the Kiosko, for public dances. A mile and three-quarters south of Manila, on the bay, is the pueblo of Malate. It is crossed by the highway from the capital to Cavite and has a fine church and barracks. On the shores of the Pasig River is the promenade 2!^ Our New Possessions. of Magallanes, on which is erected an obelisk to the memory of the great navigator, Magellan. There are cock pits and luxurious cafes, the Spanish Rec- reation Club, a military library, and, outside the town, a riding school and race course. 'Pasig, in Manila province, is 7 miles from Manila and has a population of 22,000. Cavite, 7 miles down the bay from Manila, is the great dock and shipyard of the port. It is the capital of the Province of Cavite. About a mile from its shore v/as depth enough of water for the Spanish fleet to lie. It is a narrow spit of land, point- ing toward the city of Manila, and its batteries took part in the battle of Manila Bay. There is a dock for gunboats and a private dock for vessels of 1,500 tons. From Cavite to Manila by road is 15 miles. All its buildings are of stone, among them being several churches, a theatre and casino. Bangued is the capital of the Province of Abra. It is 236 miles from Manila and has a population of 13,417. It has a telegraph station and was the resi- dence of the politico-military governor. Albay is the capital of the Province of Albay. It has a population of 14,000, and is situated on the bay of the same name, at the foot of the Mayon vol- cano. Nueva Caceres is the capital of the Province of the Camarines. It is 207 miles from Manila and has a population of 11,550. It is situated on the Naga River, which is navigable from the sea to the capital by vessels of from 150 to 200 tons. It has a cathedral, a bishop's palace, seminary for the clergy Philippine Islands. ^7 of the country, a normal school, court house and postoffice. Batangas is the capital of the Province of Ba- tangas. It is 72 miles from Manila and has a popu- lation of 39,358. It is situated in a cove on the Calumpang River and has a good harbor. During the month of February agricultural and industrial fairs and expositions are held there. BuLACAN is the capital of the Province of Bulacan. It is 22 miles from Manila and has a population of 13,186. It has a church, a town hall and about 2,000 stone houses. TuGUEGARAO is the capital of the Province of Caga- yan. It has a population of 16,826. Among the prin- cipal houses are the government house, of elegant architecture, the court house, church and town hall. Laoag is the capital of the Province of Ilocos Norte. It has a population of 37,094. Vigan is the capital of the Province of Ilocos Sur. It is 238 miles from Manila and has a population of 19,000. It has a cathedral. Episcopal palace, court house, administration building and council seminary. Santa Cruz is the capital of the Province of La- guna. It is 48 miles from Manila and has a popu- lation of "13,141. It is celebrated for its markets. High roads lead to Batangas, Cavite, Manila and the Province of Tayabas. There are many fine build- ings. LiNGAYEN is the capital of the Province of Panga- sinan. It is 146 miles from Manila and has a popu- lation of 18,886. It has a postoffice and telegraph 28 Our New Possessions. station, a good parish church and about 3,500 houses, some of stone, along one long and broad street. Tayabas is the capital of the Province of Tayabas. It is 91 miles from Manila and has a population of 15,000. There are dock yards in which good vessels are constructed. Iba is the capital of the Province of Zambales. It is 122 miles from Manila and has a population of 3,512. It has a jail, court house, church, meeting hall and parish house, and was the residence of the mayor, judge and other functionaries. It has a post- office and telegraph station. On the Island of Mindanao. Zamboanga is the capital of the District of Zam- boanga. It has a population of 21,300. It is a forti- fied place and a naval station, and has a fine barracks and the castle of San Felipe, which dominates the town and harbor. Bago, in the District of Davao, has a population of 7,000. SuRiGAO is the capital of the District of Surigao. It has a population of 6,285. It was the residence of the governor, judge and other officials. On the Island of Mindoro. Calapan is the capital, with a population of 5,585. It is 96 miles from Manila, on the harbor of Calapan, and has about 500 houses. Philippine Islands. 2g On the Island of Panay. Iloilo is the capital of the Province of Iloilo. It is about 250 miles from Manila by steamer and has a population of 10,380. It is, next to Manila, the most important port in the Philippines. It stands on a low, sandy flat on the right bank of the river Iloilo. Vessels of moderate draft— 15 feet— can ascend the river a short distance and lie alongside wharves which communicate with the merchant houses, but large vessels must anchor outside. Iloilo has a pretty cathedral, a seminary and court house. Among its industries are a machine shop, foundry, a carriage factory and a hat factory. The better class of houses are built on strong, wooden posts, two or three feet in diameter, that reach to the roof; stone walls to the first floor, with wooden windows above and an iron roof. The poorer classes of dwellings are flimsy erections of nipa, built on four posts. The roads and bridges are nearly use- less and practically impassible in the rainy season. The chief imports are Australian coal and general merchandise from Europe. The exports are sugar, tobacco, rice, coffee, hides and hemp. Provisions of all kinds can be obtained, but the prices are higher than at Manila. Water is scarce. The Europeans depend mainly on rain water. There is regular communication with Manila; the steamers generally arrive on Monday and leave on the same or following day. Capiz is the capital of the Province of Capiz. It is 290 miles from Manila and has a population of 30 Our New Possessions. 13,676. It has a harbor for vessels of ordinary draft and highroads to Iloilo, Antique and the District of Concepcion, There is a steamer kept by the State, stopping at the harbor every 28 days and connecting with Manila, Iloilo and Cebu. On the Island of Cebu. Cebu is the capital, with a population of 35,243. It is the mercantile centre of the Visaya group. It is 460 miles from Manila. It is an Episcopal See and has a cathedral, Episcopal palace, court house and some well built private edifices. There is a post office and telegraph station. The city of Cebu is the most ancient in the Philip- pines. It has been the seat of government of the group of Visayan islands, which include Cebu, Bohol, Panay, Negros and Leyte. It is built on a large plain at the foot of the chain of hills that traverse the island throughout its length. The merchants' quarter is situated along the port and includes some stone houses. The huts of the Malays, for the most part fishermen, are on the beach and form the west part of the city. Maktan Island, which lies across the narrow chan- nel from Cebu, is where Magellan was killed in 1521, after making the first passage across the Pacific. As to GENERAL DESCRIPTION. No methodical and detailed study of the geography, nor even of the number of the islands, has been made. Philippine Islands. 31 Present maps and charts are defective, except for the seaboard, in the survey of which the leading mari- time nations have co-operated. The coast line is very irregular, the ocean cutting in and forming countless bays, gulfs, isthmuses and peninsulas. There are long passages and natural canals between the islands. The whole surface of the Philippines is essentially mountainous, the only plains that occur being al- luvial districts at the river mouths and the spaces left by the intersection of the ranges. The principal ranges have a tendency to run north and south, with a certain amount of deflection east and west, as the case may be, so that the orographic diagram of the archipelago, as a whole, has a similiarity to a fan, with northern Luzon as its centre of radiation. From the southern point of Mindanao to the north- ern extremity of Luzon, the relief of all the islands is either in a line with the southern isthmuses or parallel to them. On the other hand, the islands of Bohol, Cebu, Negros and Panay are disposed in a line with, or parallel to, the Sulu Archipelago, while Mindoro and the main section of Luzon form the northeast exten- sion of Paragua and Borneo. Most of the surface appears to be formed of old rocks, especially schists, and, in the north of Luzon, granite. In 1627 one of the most elevated mountains of Cagayan disappeared, and on the island of Mindanao, in 1675, a passage was opened to the sea and a vast plain emerged. The more recent of the convulsions occurred in 1863 and in 1880. The destruction of property was great, especially in Manila. The Philippines were once, it is believed, a part of 32 Our New Possessions. a gigantic continent, from which they were separated by some cataclysm. This continent probably extended from Celebes to the farthest Polynesian islands on the east, to New Zealand on the south, and to the Mariana and Sandwich Islands on the north. The disposition of the mountain ranges in parallel chains affords opportunity for the development of streams both in Luzon and in Mindanao. The larger islands contain inland seas, into which pour num- berless small streams from the inland hills. Many of them open out into broad estuaries, and in numerous instances coasting vessels of light draft can sail to the very foot of the mountains. These rivers and inland lakes swarm with fish and shellfish. Four of the rivers, at least, are navigable. Most of the interior roads are scarcely worthy of the name, and not much is known of those running along the coast. In the dry season the roadbeds are fair, but when the rains come they are little more than sloughs, not being ballasted with rock or metal. The soil of the islands is exceedingly fertile, but agriculture is almost wholly undeveloped. The island- ers are skilful weavers of cotton and silk; they tan leather, are good ship builders and make wagons and carts. A species of buffalo is the great beast of burden, and is used in the rainy season to drag a sort of sledge over the muddy roads. The Philippine horse is small and ugly, but is sturdy and useful in the dry season. The best specimens sell for $150. The bull, of Spanish origin, is found wild, and deer are plenty in the thickets. Spain's efforts to secure a monopoly greatly re- tarded the early commerce of the Philippines with the Philippine Islands. 33 world, and it was not until i8og that the first Eng- lish firm obtained permission to establish a business house in Manila. In 1814 this permission was made more general. It is only, however, since 1834 that foreign capital and methods have materially de- veloped the natural resources. Internal commerce, as well as foreign trade, suf- fers from lack of facilities for transportation. This is marked during the rainy season, when the coast- ing trade is a dangerous one and the swollen condi- tion of the streams nearly stops land traffic. The public revenue has been about $12,000,000 per annum, of which the larger part was raised from di- rect taxation, customs, monopolies and lotteries. For the imposition and collection of taxes Spanish in- genuity has been exercised to the utmost, but the basis of the financial system in the Philippines was the poll-tax, which every adult under sixty years of age, male or female, had to pay. Almost every arti- cle of import was heavily taxed. On muslin and pe- troleum the duty was about 100 per cent, of cost. In the Matter of Rivers. The Rio Grande de Cagayan, on the island of Luzon 200 miles long. The Agno Grande, on the island of Luzon 112 " " The Abra, on the island of Luzon. ... 87 " " The Rio Agusan, or Buluan, on the island of Mindanao 236 " " The Polangui, on the island of Min- danao 87 " " 34 Our New Possessions. For comparison: The Hudson 300 miles long. The Merrimac 120 " " The Kennebec 150 " There are hundreds of smaller rivers on the various islands, besides countless small streams flowing from the inland seas. In the Matter of Harbors. Trade is confined chiefly to Manila, Iloilo, Cebu, Sual and, to a lesser extent, Zamboanga, on the island of Mindanao. The Bay of Manila is one of the finest in the world, 120 miles in circumference. There are two long piers running out from the mouth of the Pasig River into Manila Bay. At Cavite, 8 miles to the southwest by water, is a marine railway capable of handling vessels of 2,000 tons displacement ; also a dock for small vessels. Iloilo, the second port in importance, is on the island of Panay, about 250 miles in a direct line from Manila. In the Matter of Mountains. While none of the mountain peaks greatly exceeds 8,000 feet in height, Apo, in Mindanao, is over 9,000 feet; Halson, in Mindoro, is over 8,900 feet; and Mayon, in Luzon is over 8,200 feet. The latter is an Philippine Islands. 35 active volcano, which has been the scene of several eruptions during the present century. Extinct or ac- tive craters are numerous in the Philippines, and as a consequence of these subterraneous forces earth- quakes are frequent and violent. BY PROVINCES. The Province of Manila, on the Island of Luzon, has a population of 400,000. Besides Manila and Pasig, elsewhere referred to, it has the town of Tam- bobong, three miles from Manila, with a population of 25,000, and a dozen others with population ranging from five to ten thousand. The Province of Abra, in the northern part of Luzon, has a rich vegetation, and the oak, pine and strawberry tree flourish. Among the game are buf- falo, deer, wild boars and monkeys. The Province of Albay, in the extreme southeast of Luzon, is covered with almost impenetrable forests of rich timber. There are numerous rivers, and on the coast there are dockyards, where vessels are con- structed. It has seven towns with population rang- ing between 13,000 and 20,000, and as many more of about 10,000. The Province of North Camarines is crossed by numerous rivers. Its thick forests are inhabited by tribes of Negritos, and there are unworked mines of gold, silver, iron, copper and lead. It has six towns with population ranging from 9,000 to 17,000, be- sides scores of smaller villages. The Province of Batangas is just south of Luzon 36 Our New Possessions. and opposite Mindoro. It is noted for its high mountains, thick woods and fertile valleys, over which roam droves of buffalo and wild horses. The principal industries are the manufacture of silk, abaca and cotton fabrics and dye stuffs. Lipa, eight- een miles from the capital, Batangas, has a popula- tion of 40,733 ; Bauang has 39,659 ; Balayang has 24,747 ; Taal has 33,37S ; Tanaun has 20,038, and there are numerous towns of from 5,000 to 10,000. The Province of Bulacan, to the north of Manila, is one of the smallest but richest provinces in the archipelago. It is crossed by the Pampanga River, which empties into Manila Bay by several mouths, some of which are navigable. There are sugar mills, and cacao, rice, indigo, sesame, and fruits are grown. There are mines of iron and magnetite and quarries of alabaster. Striped cloths of silk and cotton are manufactured. Hagonoy has a population of 20,120; San Miguel de Mayumo has 20,460, and there are numerous towns of from 8,000 to 15,000. The Province of Cagayan, which is bounded on the north by the China Sea, is the coolest territory in the archipelago, and in January and February the body must be given additional protection. In other sea- sons the air is impure and oppressive, owing to the humidity caused by more than fifty rivers and creeks flowing through the dense forests. The tobacco is especially celebrated. Stock is owned to the extent of 31,000 buffalos, 30,000 head of cattle, 14,000 swine and 15,000 horses. Its towns are mostly small. The Province of Cavite is important because of its situation between Manila Province and Bay Lake. The Spanish military arsenal of the group of islands was located there. It has good timber lands. Imus, Philippine Islands. -yj eighteen miles from the capital, Cavite, has a popula- tion of 14,676; Indang has I3,334» and Bacoor 13,113. The Province of Ilocos Norte, in the northwest of Luzon, is one of the most industrious provinces of the island. Live stock is raised of a fine quality. There is a fairly good pike connecting with Manila and running through several provinces. Its climate is better adapted to foreigners than most others. Batac has a population of 17,625, and there are quite a number of towns of about 10,000. The Province of Laguna, lying east of the prov- inces of Manila and Cavite, is covered with moun- tains. Into one of the mountain valleys falls the cas- cade of Batacan, 500 feet high by 90 wide. Binan, 41 miles from the capital, Santa Cruz, has a popula- tion of 19,786; Calamba has 11,476; Nagcarlang has 12,976; San Pablo, 10 miles from Santa Cruz, has 19,537 population. The Province of Nueva Ecija, to the north of Ma- nila, raises many cattle. The coast is dangerous for vessels. San Isidro is the capital, with a population of 7,056. Gapan, four miles from San Isidro, has a population of 20,216; Cabanatuan has 12,000; Aliaga has 17,000, and Rosales 11,519. The Province of Pampanga, to the north of Manila, raises sugar cane, rice, indigo and tobacco. There are sugar mills, and the manufacture of hats is high- ly developed. Lubao, four miles from Bacolor, the capital, has a population of 21,175; Mexico has 17,- 099; Arayat and Candaba, 14,000 each, and there are several others from 8,000 to 10,000. The Province of Pangasinan is bounded on the west by the China Sea. A gold mine is worked in the mountains, and there are mines of iron, magnetite 38 Our New Possessions. and sulphur in a pure state. San Carlos, 10 miles from Lingayen, the capital, has a population of 23,934 ; Manaoag has 17,500; Dagupan has 16,000; Tayug has 19,612, and Urdaneta 16,588. The Province of Zambales is in the southern part of the island. The mountains are covered with tim- ber forests which are inhabited by fierce tribes of savages. Bolinao is 103 miles from Iba, the capital, and its municipal district is composed of 13 islands. Its population is 4,075. There is a meteorologic and semaphoric station, a submarine cable, and a dock- yard for coast vessels. On the Island of Panay. The Province of Antique is to the west of Iloilo province and has the Mindanao Sea on the south. The country is covered with great forests. The prin- cipal interests are stock raising and the manufacture of fabrics. Besides the capital, San Jose de Buena- vista, with its population of 5,621, there are BugasoPj with 14,104; Culasi, with 10,553; Pandan, with 13,737, and Sibalom, with 11,675, oi the larger towns. The Province of Capiz is separated from Iloilo on the south by a ridge of mountains. There are gold and copper mines, and tobacco, sugar and rice are raised. During the year three fairs are held. Batan, Calibo, Ibajay, Macato, Mambusao and Panay are the larger towns, with population ranging from 10,000 to 15,000. The Province of Iloilo is generally level and irri- gated by numerous rivers. Tobacco, cacao, sugar Philippine Islands. 39 cane, rice and maize are grown ; there is good pastur- age for cattle and horses and there are gold and other mines. The principal industry is the manufacture of fabrics, requiring over 30,000 looms. Janinay, three miles from the capital, Iloilo, has a population of 28,738; Miagas, 22,100; Cabatuan, 18,177; Leon, 13,950; Pototan, 14,512; San Joaquin, 13,918; Oton, '^3,3^3', Santa Barbara, 13,000, and there are many other towns from eight to eleven thousand. On the Island of Cebu. The Province and Island of Cebu is the most im- portant province of the Visaya islands, on account of its central position, the nature of its ground and the industry of its inhabitants. Great mountain chains cross the island. Argao, 33 miles from the capital, Cebu, has a population of 34,050 ; Carcar has 30,300 ; Sibonga has 23,455; Dalaguete has 21,323; Talisay has 19,000; Barili has 20,914; San Nicholas has 17,800, and there are scores of others between ten and fifteen thousand. On the Island of Mindanao. The island and adjacent islands have been divided, since i860, into eight districts. Mindanao possesses high and extended mountain chains which have not been entirely explored and which are densely wood- ed. It is inhabited throughout the interior by sav- ages. 40 Our New Possessions. On the Calamianes Islands. The group is to the southeast of Manila and is composed of the islands of Busungan, Calamianes, Linapocan, Cuyo, Dumaran, Agutaya and the north- ern part of Paragua, ceded by the Sultan of Borneo to Spain at the end of the last century. They have an area of 340 square miles. The island of Cuyo, 10 miles long by 4 wide, is thickly populated. It is sur- rounded by many small islets and is defended by an armed battery. In Agutaya is another fortress. Co- ron is sterile, but has a curious source of wealth in its edible birds' nests, for which the Chinese pay double their weight in silver. On the Island and Province of Leyte The coasts are high but with good natural harbors. Carigara is a place of some trade; steamers from Manila touch there about once a fortnight. Dagami, 20 miles from the capital, Tacloban, has a population of 25,000; Tanauan has 18,509; Palo has 17,736; Borauen has 21,290, and there are other large towns. As to HISTORY. The islands were discovered by Magellan in 1521. In 1564 the group received the name of the Philip- pines in honor of Philip II. From 1521 until 1542 various expeditions were sent out from Spain to conquer the islanders, but were Philippine Islands. 41 unsuccessful. In 1564 Miguel de Legaspi took out a party of campaigners and succeeded in getting a foothold in Cebu. Later the colonists transferred their equipment to Luzon, and in 1581 the city of Manila was founded. This Spanish colony was fiercely assailed in follow- ing years by parties of Portuguese, Dutch and Chi- nese, but the Spanish held their ground. The E^ig- lish succeeded, however, in 1762, in taking Manila, which they held for a ransom of about five million dollars. This was among those debts which Spain could not pay, and the islands were finally released by the English. The Philippines entered upon a new existence un- der partial American control, beginning May i, when the Battle of Manila Bay was fought and the Span- ish fleet was destroyed by the American fleet under Dewey. The actual cession of the Philippines to the United States occurred on December 10, 1898, when the Treaty of Peace was signed at Paris, at 8:45 o'clock p. M. HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. As to NUMBER and AREA. Hawaii 4,210 square miles Maui 760 Oahu 600 Kauai 590 Molokai 270 Lanai 150 Niihau 97 Twelve other small islands 63 Total area of the 19 islands 6,740 square miles For comparison: Connecticut 4,750 square miles Rhode Island 1,054 Greater New York City 359 " " Total of three 6,163 square miles New Jersey 7,815 square miles The Hawaiian Islands lie in the Pacific Ocean, about 2,100 miles southwest of San Francisco and about 3,440 miles from Yokohama. They are be- tween the i8th and 22d degrees north latitude and the 154th and i6ist west longitude. Their distance Hawaiian Islands. 43 from the equator is about that of Cuba, but the cli- mate is modified and equalized by the northeast trade winds, which prevail nine months in the year, after sweeping over thousands of miles of ocean. As to POPULATION. By Islands. Oahu 40,205 inhabitants Hawaii 33,285 Maui 17,726 '* Kauai 15,228 Molokai 2,307 " Lanai 105 ** Niihau 164 " Total 109,020 inhabitants By Nationalities. Americans 4,000 British 2,250 Germans and other Europeans 2,000 Hawaiians and mixed blood 38,020 Japanese 25,000 Chinese 21,500 Portuguese 15,000 Polynesians and miscellaneous 1,250 Total 109,020 44 Our New Possessions. The American residents, although in so small a minority, practically control the affairs of the coun- try, and with the British and Germans constitute the controlling element in business. The Chinese and Japanese do not possess political power. The rela- tion they bear to the body politic is that of laborers. The native Hawaiians are a friendly, affectionate people, readily obedient to law. The Portuguese are largely immigrants from the islands and colonies of Portugal in the Atlantic. As to CLIMATE. By Range of Temperature. Hottest months August and September Highest temperature in each 88 degrees Lowest temperature in each 68 " General average in August 78 " General average in September 77 " Coldest month January Highest temperature in January 81 degrees Lowest temperature in January 55 " General average in January 70 " General average for the year 74 " General average for the last 7 years 74 " Hawaiian Islands. 45 By Humidity. (Honolulu, 1898.) Inches. Rainfall for the wettest month (December) . . . 6.70 dryest month (September)... .64 ^^ y^^^ 3375 last seven years (average) . . . 38.80 In the Matter of Health. The Health Board has charge of a dispensary on Oahu and one hospital on each of the other principal islands, and assists a second hospital on the island of Kauai. It assists also a maternity home in Honolulu. It has charge of an insane asylum in Honolulu. It has charge of the inspection and location of slaughter houses and inspection of animals to be slaughtered, the special inspection of fish, the inspec- tion of food supplies in general and inspection and re- moval of garbage. It has been called upon to pay considerable attention to tuberculosis in neat cattle, to sewerage and to filtration. It is obliged to examine into nuisances and causes of sickness of all kinds and to abate them, also to look after the sanitary condition of dwelling and lodging houses and to determine the number of people who may be lodged in the latter. It may enforce the improvement of land deleterious to the public health by reason of being low and wet or for other reasons. It controls licenses for the prac- tice of medicine. It alone may import opium. It keeps a record of births, deaths and marriages. 46 Our New Possessions. The board has charge also of the examination and vaccination of all school children, which is required by law. It also exercises certain supervision of cemeteries. As to DISTANCES. (All reckonings being by statute miles to Honolulu.) From New York (via San Francisco) . . . 5,350 miles " San Francisco 2,100 " Portland, Oregon 2,460 " Victoria, B. C 2,360 " Auckland, N. Z 3,810 " Sydney, N. S. W 4,484 " Yokohama 3,440 " Hong Kong 4,893 " Panama 4,620 As to COST and TIME in GETTING THERE* Roundly speaking, it will cost from $175 to $225 to get from New York to Honolulu by first class, and from $125 to $150 by second class, and it will take from eleven to thirteen days' time. In detail these are the facts and figures: Hawaiian Islands. 47 From New York to San Francisco. By way of the New York Central or Pennsyl- vania road, first-class ticket $81.75 Second class 69.75 To the first-class passage add sleeping-car berth 20.50 Total, first class $ 102.23 To the second-class passage add sleeping-car berth, New York to Chicago (no tourist berths), $5, and tourist berth from Chicago to San Francisco $11.00 Total, second class $80, 75 By way of the Erie, Northwestern and Union Pacific, first-class ticket $78.75 Second class 68.75 To first-class passage add sleeping-car berths, all the way 20.50 Total, first class 99.25 To second-class passage add tourist berths, all the way ^ 00 Total, second class $77, 75 By way of the Lehigh Valley road, the "Black Diamond Express," first-class ticket $79-75 Second class 68.75 48 Our Nezu Possessions. To these prices add the usual prices for sleepers. First-class sleeping berths, all the way $20.50 Second-class tourist berths, all the way 9.00 Total, first class 100.25 Total, second class 7775 From New York to Honolulu. Through tickets, first class, can be bought for. $143. 75 Through tickets, second class, can be bought for 118.75 To these prices add a war tax of $7 and prices of sleeping accommodations from New York to San Francisco. The time between here and San Francisco varies from 4 days and 5 hours to 6 days, according to the road and the character of the train. In the Matter of Meals En Route. Most of the dining cars and dining stations between New York and San Francisco serve meals on the American plan. Price per meal in dining car $1.00 Price per meal in dining station 75 Patronage of dining car or station restaurant is, of course, optional. Three meals daily in dining car, six days' trip. .$18.00 Three meals daily in dining stations, six days' trip 13.50 Hawaiian Islands. 49 This expense can be lessened considerably by the economy of a lunch basket. Steamship rates on both Pacific and Atlantic lines include the cost of meals. From St. Louis to San Francisco. By the "Frisco Line." First-class ticket, by' extreme Southern or Santa Fe route $57-50 Sleeper 1450 Tourist class, over either routes 47-50 Sleeper 6.00 The tourist, or second-class travel, is well recom- mended. The cars are operated by the Pullman Company and a porter is in attendance. From New Orleans to San Francisco. By the Southern Pacific. First class $57-50 Sleeper 13.00 Second class 47-50 Sleeper 5.00 First class, with stop-over privileges, good for thirty days 67.50 Sleeper berths for this ticket are bought from point to point. so Our New Possessions. From San Francisco to Honolulu. Three lines, the Oceanic Steamship Company, the Oriental and Occidental Steamship Company and the Pacific Mail, ply between these ports. One steamer of the Oceanic Line, the Australia, makes Honolulu her destination. The other two steamers of the same line touch there and go on to Samoa and Australia. The steamers of the other two lines touch at Hono- lulu and go on to Japan and China. The Oceanic Steamship Company's rates are $75 cabin and $25 steerage. The other two lines charge $100 and $30, respectively. Time from San Francisco to Honolulu, from six to seven days. From Northwestern Ports. The Canadian-Australian Royal Mail Steamship Company's steamers, sailing from Victoria and Van- couver, stop at Honolulu on their way to Australia and New Zealand. Fine sailing vessels make regular trips between Port Townsend and San Francisco and Honolulu, with passenger accommodations. The price is $40 for cabin passage. From Victoria and Vancouver to Honolulu, first cabin, steamer $75-00 Second cabin 25.00 Cabin passage by sailing vessel from San Francisco 40.00 Hawaiian Islands. 51 Steerage $25.00 From Hong Kong or Tokio to Honolulu, cabin passage, steamer 250.00 There are two steamers every four weeks, both to and from Vancouver, by way of the Canadian-Aus- tralian line. Freight Rates. The rates of freight from San Francisco to Hono- lulu are : For steamers, $5 per ton and 5 per cent, primage; sailing vessels, $3 per ton and 5 per cent, primage. The rates from Atlantic ports range from $5 to $7 per ton, with 5 per cent, primage. The duration of the voyage between New York and Honolulu has been from 89 to 134 days. As to MAIL SERVICE. By postal route, from New York to San Francisco, letters take 5 days By postal route, from San Francisco to Honolulu, letters take 7 days Total from New York to Honolulu 12 days There is a regular postal system in Hawaii. On the arrival of a steamer at Honolulu the mail is sent to the different islands and into the interior by mail carriers. The Hawaiian Islands belong to the Postal Union. 52 Our New Possessions. Money orders can be obtained on the United States, Canada, Great Britain, Germany, Norway and Swe- den, Denmark, the Netherlands, Portugal, Hong Kong and Australia. Rates of Postage. Letters to any part of the islands, 2 cents each half ounce. Letters to United States, Canada, Mexico and colo- nies, 5 cents each half ounce. Postal cards to same, 2 cents. Parcels post — United States, per pound, 12 cents. As to TRADE. Exports. Articles sent to the Pacific ports of the United States for the six months ended June 30, 1897: Value. Sugar, 230,350,296 pounds $6,698,595.37 Rice, 2,168,600 pounds 87,378.30 Coffee, 218,489 pounds 31,756.52 Bananas, 43,457 bunches 43,334-50 Wool, 10,024 pounds 851.44 Hides, 10,863 pieces 40,119.39 Pineapples, 64,874 pieces 7,429.70 Other exports, including goat skins, sheep skins, molasses, betel leaves, taro flour, watermelons, canned fruits, honey, etc 28,442.28 Total $6,937,907.50 Hawaiian Islands. S3 Articles sent to the Atlantic ports of the United States for the six months ended June so, iSgy: Value. Sugar, 145,612,711 pounds $4,322,757.37 Sugar, foreign 41.00 Total $4,322,798.37 In the Matter of Imports. For the six months ended June 30, 1897. Whence Imported, Value. United States $3,058,380.92 Great Britain 351,381.52 Germany 52,878.70 China 102,273.91 Japan 159,555-45 Australia and New Zealand 75,975-73 Canada 16,179.93 Pacific Islands 3,003.16 France 18,385.70 Other countries 70,474.23 Total $3,908,489.25 In the Matter of Spirituous Liquors. All kinds of liquors withdrawn from bond during first half of 1897 362,243 gallons This would average for each man, woman and child on the islands 31^ gallons 54 Our New Possessions. Of the whole, Japanese sake amounted to 151,732 gallons This, if consumed wholly by the Japanese, would average for each man, woman and child. 6]E/2 gallons Of the whole, Chinese sam shoo amounted to 9,230 gallons This would be, per capita 316 pints Considering the Chinese as confining their drinking to their native liquor, the figures would indicate them to be the most temperate people of the islands. California, in the time specified, contributed wine to the extent of 84,549 gallons Merchant Marine. Fifty-eight vessels fly the Hawaiian flag, consisting of 27 steamers, 3 ships, 8 barks, 18 schooners and 2 sloops. Their aggregate tonnage is 30,382. Thirty-one of the vessels were built in the United States. One hundred and eighty-one vessels entered the port of Honolulu during the first six months of 1897. The tonnage of these aggregated 251,992 tons. The United States, as usual, led all other countries, both in number of vessels — iii — and amount of ton- nage — 127,018. One hundred and two vessels, with an aggregate tonnage of 126,419, were from American ports. The commerce of the islands is decidedly with the United States. Hawaiian Islands. 55 As to RAILROADS and TRAVEL. There are three railroads on the islands. The principal road is the Oahu Railway and Land Company Line, which runs from Honolulu to Wai- anae, the total length, including sidings, being 38.5 miles. It was opened July i, 1890. In 1897 the road carried 85,596 passengers, earning $30,993.50; and 66,430.49 tons of freight, earning $69,752.76; total earnings, $100,746.26. The equipment consists of 5 locomotives, 14 pas- senger coaches, and 132 freight cars. The road is bonded for $2,000,000, at 6 per cent., with $700,000 worth of stock, which is to be increased to $1,500,000. The Kahului Railroad, on the island of Maui, is 13 miles long. The Hawaiian Railroad, on the island of Hawaii, is about 20 miles long. They are used principally for carrying plantation products for shipment. As to BUSINESS CHANCES. The reader is especially referred to the Honolulu Chamber of Commerce. The following is from a re- port by Sanford B. Dole, dated Honolulu, August 30, 1898: "Coffee raising is comparatively a new enterprise and there are opportunities for its culture on a much larger scale than at present. Four or five years from transplanting are required for a coffee tree to reach its full bearing capacity. 56 Our New Possessions. "On account of the increasing demand for coffee lands and the fact that this enterprise can be profit- ably carried on in small holdings, the Government has devoted its energies, under the settlement provisions of its land legislation, mainly to the opening of coffee lands to settlement in small farms within lOO acres in extent, except in the Olaa coffee region, where pio- neer holders of original crown leases were allowed to acquire, upon the basis of such leases, a larger area. "These lands have been eagerly taken up by actual settlers, and are generally prosperous. In the last biennial period 422 holdings, not including the Olaa lots, were taken up, including an aggregate area of 20,234 acres and worth, at the moderate Government appraisement, $118,853, unimproved value. "The area of good coffee land as yet unoccupied is comparatively large. A large part, however, of the public lands of this class is held under leases to pri- vate parties. The expiration of the terms of these leases will, from time to time, augment materially the area under the control of the Government suitable for settlement purposes. "The banana is a hardy plant without insect ene- mies and is cultivated largely with irrigation. It re- quires a fertile soil and thorough cultivation and can be raised from the seashore nearly up to the frost line. The yield is large and the crop, as raised for export, a profitable one. "Under free trade with the main land the cultiva- tion of pineapples, avocado pears and tobacco and the manufacture of taro flour and jams and jellies and the canning of fruit will undoubtedly become profit- able. Other fruits and some vegetables will be profit- ably raised for the Pacific coast markets. Hawaiian Islands. 57 "Indian corn, Irish and sweet potatoes and garden vegetables are successfully and profitably raised for the home demand. "The raising of live stock has, as a rule, been car- ried on in a haphazard way, relying upon the natural growth of native grasses for pasturage, without other feeding. While considerable attention has been paid to the improvement of all kinds of stock by the intro- duction of good blood, the condition and quality of live stock at the islands on the whole is not very creditable to the country ; yet the business is generally profitable." As will be seen by reference to the list of exports, the production of sugar in Hawaii is enormous, but the interest is so controlled by trusts that it can scarcely be called a "business chance." As to COST of LIVING and WAGES PAID. Price of Provisions. Fresh Hawaiian butter, from 25 to 50 cents per pound. Hams, from 16H to 30 cents per pound. Bacon, from 163^ to 20 cents per pound. Cheese, from 20 to 35 cents per pound. Family pork, from 15 to 18 cents per pound. Corned beef, 7 cents per pound. Fresh meat, from 6 to 15 cents per pound. Loin of porterhouse steaks, from 6 to 15 cents per pound. 58 Our New Possessions. Tinned fruits, per dozen, from $1.75 to $2.25. Golden Gate flour, per 100 pounds, $2.50. Lower grades, $2.20. Hawaiian rice, $3.25 to $5 per 100 pounds. Hawaiian bananas, per bunch, 25 to 55 cents. Potatoes, from i to 2 cents per pound. Eggs, per dozen, 25 to 50 cents. Rolled oats, per case, $5.50. Ice, in small quantities, iH cents; 50 pounds and over, I cent per pound. Hotel Rates. The principal hotels in Honolulu are the Hawaiian and the Arlington. Board, with room, at either is from $3 to $5 a day. Besides these, there are private boarding houses, where the rates are from $10 a week up. In Hilo the rates are somewhat less and the ac- commodations more limited. Carriage Fares. From the steamer to the hotels, for either i or 2 persons $0.25 From the steamer to the hotels, for each addi- tional person 10 Carriage fare, per hour, i passenger 1.50 " " 2 " 2.00 " " 3 " 2.50 " " " " 4 " 3.00 Hawaiian Islands. 59 To the Pali, i passenger, each way $300 " " "2 " " " 4.00 '* " ** -J ** it t( .... t^.OO Saddle horses cost a dollar an hour. Bicycles can be hired at prices a little higher than in the East. Wages Paid. Cooks, Chinese and Japanese, $3 to $6 per week, with board and room. Nurses and house servants, $8 to $12 per month, with board and room. Gardeners or yard men, $8 to $12 per month, with board and room. Sewing women, $1 per day and one meal. Engineers on plantations, from $125 to $175 per month, house and firewood furnished. Sugar boilers, $125 to $175 per month, house and firewood furnished. Blacksmiths, plantation, $50 to $100 per month, house and firewood furnished. Carpenters, plantation, $50 to $100 per month, house and firewood furnished. Locomotive drivers, $40 to $75 per month, room and board furnished. Head overseers, or head lunas, $100 to $150. Under overseers, or lunas, $30 to $50, with room and board. Bookkeepers, plantation, $100 to $175, house and firewood furnished. Teamsters, white, $30 to $40, with room and board. 6o Our Neiv Possessions. Hawaiians, $25 to $30, with room ; no board. Field labor, Portuguese and Hawaiian, $16 to $18 per month ; no board. Field labor, Chinese and Japanese, $12.50 to $15 per month ; no board. Bricklayers and masons, $5 to $6 per day. Carpenters, $2.50 to $5. Machinists. $3 to $5. Painters, $2 to $5 per day. As to GOVERNMENT and LAWS. The following scheme of government for the Terri- tory of Hawaii was provided for in a bill before Con- gress prepared by the Hawaiian Commission and sub- mitted by the President on December 6, 1898 : The islands to be known as the Territory of Ha- waii, the capital of the Territorial Government being at Honolulu. All white persons, including Portuguese, and per- sons of African descent, and all persons descended from the Hawaiian race who were citizens of the Republic of Hawaii immediately prior to the transfer of the sovereignty thereof to the United States, are declared to be citizens of the United States. The President of the United States is to appoint a Governor, a Secretary of the Territory, United States District Judge, United States District Attorney and a United States Marshal. An Attorney General, a Treasurer, Superintendent of Public Works, Superintendent of Public Instruc- Hawaiian Islands. 6i tion, Auditor, Deputy Auditor, Surveyor, and a Chief Sheriff, in place of the Marshal of the Republic, are, by the bill^ to be appointed by the Governor. The laws of Hawaii, not inconsistent with the Con- stitution or laws of the United States or the pro- visions of this act, are to continue in force, subject to repeal or amendment by the Legislature of Hawaii or the United States. The offices of President, Minister of Foreign Af- fairs, Minister of the Interior, Minister of Finance, Minister of Public Instruction, Auditor-General, Deputy Auditor-General, Surveyor-General, Marshal and Deputy Marshal of the Republic of Hawaii are abolished. The Legislature of the Territory shall consist of two houses, called the Senate and House of Repre- sentatives, The Senate to be composed of fifteen members, and the House of thirty memb'ers. The Supreme Court is to be the sole judge of the legality of an election to a seat in either house. A general election is to be held on the Tuesday next after the first Monday in November, 1899, and bien- nially thereafter. No member of the Legislature shall be eligible to any Government office during his term. No officer, employe, notary public or agent of the Territory is eligible to election to the Legislature. The salary of each member is $400 and 10 cents a mile traveling expenses, and $200 for each extra session. A Senator must be a male citizen of the United States ; be 30 years old or over ; have lived in the Hawaiian Islands not less than three years ; have in his own right property in the Territory of the value 62 Our New Possessions. of not less than $2,000, or else have been in receipt of a money income of not less than $1,000 during the year immediately preceding the date of election. A Representative must have attained the age of 25 years; be a male citizen; have lived in the islands not less than three years ; must own not less than $500 worth of property, or have received a money income of not less than $250. Sessions of the Legislature are to be not longer than sixty days. A voter for Representatives must be a male citizen of the United States ; have resided in the Territory not less than one year; have attained the age of 21 years ; have registered ; have paid all taxes due by him to the Government ; and be able understandingly to speak, read, and write the English or Hawaiian language. In order to be qualified to vote for Senators a per- son must possess all the qualifications and be subject to all the conditions required by this act of voters for Representatives, and, in addition thereto, he shall own and be possessed in his own right of real property in the Territory of the value of not less than one thou- sand dollars, and upon which legal taxes shall have been paid on that valuation for the year next preced- ing the one in which such person offers to register; or shall have actually received a money income of not less than six hundred dollars during the year next preceding the first day of April next preceding the date of each registration. The Governor of the Territory is authorized to ap- point registration boards. The judicial power of the Territory to be vested in one Supreme Court and in such inferior courts as Hawaiian Islands. 63 the Legislature may from time to time establish. The Supreme Court to consist of a chief justice and not less than two associate justices. Voters qualified to vote for members of the House of Representatives may elect a delegate to the House of Representatives of the United States to serve dur- ing each Congress. In the Matter of Courts. (Subject to revision under proposed Territorial Law.) There are three sets of courts— a supreme court, superior courts of record, and local courts. There is the Supreme Court. There are five Circuit Courts. There are twenty-nine District Courts. The chief justice and associate justices are all of American descent and are graduates of American colleges and law schools. The circuit judges com- prise two Americans, one Englishman, one Portu- guese and one Hawaiian. The district judges are mostly Hawaiians. The Supreme Court law library contains over 5,000 volumes. In the Matter of Its Present Police System. The police officers of the islands consist of a mar- shal, a deputy marshal, three sheriffs, twenty-three deputies, 196 officers, besides prison officers and guards. 64 Our New Possessions. The marshal is the chief of police, and is appointed by the Attorney-General, with the approval of the President, (The bill before Congress will abolish the offices of marshal and deputy marshal, substi- tuting for the marshal a chief sheriff, to be appointed by the Governor of the Territory, who, himself, suc- ceeds to the duties of the President of the Republic.) On three — the main islands — there is a chief of police of the island, called sheriff, appointed by the marshal. In each district of the seven islands there is a deputy sheriff. As to INSTITUTIONS. In the Matter of Schools. The English language is the medium of instruction. Total number of pupils ( 1898) 14,522 Attending public schools 10,568 Attending private schools 3,954 Number of public schools 132 Number of private schools 60 Number of teachers in the public schools 298 Number of teachers in private schools 209 [Of all the teachers 49.9 per cent, are Americans.] The Principal Schools. Oahu College, in the suburbs of Honolulu, has large, modern buildings ; high school course, classical Hawaiian Islands. 65 course, sciences, modern languages, music, drawing, etc. ; with an endowment of $285,000. Honolulu High School occupies private residence, formerly the palace of the Princess Ruth; course of instruction, high. Lahainaluna Seminary, on Maui, now a Govern- ment school; instruction in agriculture, carpentry, printing and mechanical drawing. Normal School at Honolulu, with a practice school attached ; has an enrollment of fifty pupils, with three teachers. St. Louis College, boarding and day school; has over 500 pupils. lolani College, at Honolulu, an academy for boys. Average Monthly Salary of Male Teachers. In the United States $47-37 In Hawaii 74-55 Of Female Teachers. In the United States $40.24 In Hawaii 55 . 18 Of all Teachers. In the United States $42.26 In Hawaii ^^ jg Cost of Education Per Pupil. In the United States $18.92 In Hawaii 21 17 Average Number of School Days Per Year. In the United States 140 In Hawaii 200 66 Our New Possessions. In the Matter of Papers. In Honolulu. Dallies: Pacific Commercial Advertiser English Daily Bulletin English Hawaiian Star English Independent English Aloha Aina Native Ka Loea Kalaiaina Native Hawaiian Shimpo Japanese Semi-weeklies : Hawaiian Gazette English Shim Nipon Japanese Yamato Shimbun Japanese Weeklies: Weekly Hawaiian Star English The Kuokoa Native O Luro Portuguese O Directo Portuguese Hawaiian Chinese News Chinese Chinese Times Chinese Chinese Chronicle Chinese Ka Makaainana .Native In Hilo. Weeklies : The Hilo Tribune English Hawaii Herald EngHsh Hawaiian Islands. 67 In the Matter of Churches. In Honolulu. Central Union Church ; Congregational. Methodist Episcopal Church. The Christian Church. The Christian Chinese Church. The Salvation Army. St. Andrew's Cathedral; Episcopal. Roman Catholic Church. Protestant Mission ; Portuguese. Japanese Union Church; connected with the Ha- waiian Board of Missions. Japanese Church. Kawaihao Church, Congregational ; native. Kaumahapili Church, Congregational; native. As to CITIES. City life in the Hawaiian Islands is practically con- fined to Honolulu, the capital. It is situated on the island of Oahu, and has a population of about 20,000 people. The city straggles along the water front, on each side of its business centre, from Kalihi to Dia- mond Head, for about seven miles. For a mile back from the sea front the land is but slightly raised above the sea level. Then, however, comes a rapid rise from hills to mountains, the whole city lying at the foot and in the valleys of a mountain range which rises to a height of 3,000 feet. A fringe of cocoanut trees along the sea front adds a tropical appearance 68 Our New Possessions. to the city, while the houses are mostly hidden from view by dense foliage. Honol lu is a modernized city, with electric lights, telephones, markets, newspapers and many new buildings of stone. The Executive Building, which cost $500,000, is built of stone, situated in a ten-acre park, beautified with trees and shrubbery. There is a well equipped opera house, completed in 1896, which has a seating capacity of between twelve and fifteen hundred. Public parks are numerous, the public buildings are attractive, and the private resi- dences, with wide verandas, look out upon bright gardens and lawns adorned with vines and palms. The hills back of the city are especially adapted for fine residences, having an altitude of from 100 to 1,100 feet above the sea. The hotels are built of stone and are well managed. The principal streets are Nuuana Avenue (for resi- dences) and King Street (for business). There is a public library and a Y. M. C. A. build- ing. As to GENERAL DESCRIPTION. A group of islands exporting annually over sixteen million dollars' worth of products; having a mild, equable climate; possessing excellent schools and a good judiciary; destined to play an important part in the growth of commerce on the Pacific, bearing im- portant relations to the great trans-Siberian Railway and the inevitable Nicaragua canal — this group, the Hawaiian Islands. 6g islands of Hawaii, as a new possession of the United States, must interest every American citizen. A maximum temperature of 88 degrees, a minimum of 55, an average temperature of 74 degrees for the last seven years — such is the consistently delightful climate of Hawaii. There is never any frost nor snow, except upon the highest mountains. Kauai, the most northwesterly of the group, has an area of about 590 square miles, and is the most fertile of the islands in proportion to its size. It has rich, broad valleys, lying between mountain ranges, largely productive of sugar, but producing also coffee and rice. Oahu is the most thickly populated of the islands, having over 40,000 inhabitants. There is situated Honolulu, the capital and largest city in the archi- pelago. This island is principally devoted to pastur- age and agriculture, but the sugar industry is a grow- ing one, owing to the development of the artesian water supply. The most profitable sugar lands known are on the island of Maui. For the purpose of sugar irrigation 6,000,000 gallons of artesian water are pumped daily to a height of 400 feet. Hawaii, from which the group takes its name, is the largest of the islands. It contains nearly 2,500,000 acres of land and has a population of nearly 34,000. Its principal town is Hilo. The Hawaiian islands are destined to become a great cable centre. They will ultimately be a meet- ing place for cables from all ports of the great cir- cuit of our coasts, from the Asiatic coasts as far south as Hong Kong, from the South Pacific and from the South American coast. 70 Our New Possessions. The five larger islands of the group are separated by three channels that aggregate about ii8 miles in width. The new development of the islands will de- mand cable communication between them all. Hawaii takes just pride in her schools. The law requires that every child between the ages of six and fifteen years, inclusive, shall attend either a public or a private school, in which the English language is the medium of instruction. Attendance is enforced by means of truant officers or school police. The Republic in its Constitution forbade any aid from the public treasury to any sectarian, denomina- tional or private school, and by the new school law of 1896 no priest or minister of religion is eligible to the office of Minister of Public Instruction or to be- come a member of the Board of Education. Clergy- men may be teachers or instructors in Government schools, but no distinctively religious teaching is per- mitted. The school system and its methods are peculiarly American, It is an interesting fact that over one-eighth of the expenditures of the Hawaiian Government have been for the support of the public schools. The Government has devoted earnest efforts to- ward the protection of the public health. A strict quarantine is maintained at points where ships from infected ports might call. Ordinarily malarial fevers are rare, though there has been some typhoid among the United States troops recently stationed at Hono- lulu. The Hawaiian Islands maintain a prison system, corresponding mainly to the State prisons of the United States. Hawaiian Islands. "ji In the Matter of Harbors. In the island of Oahu lies the key to the com- merce of China, Japan and Australia. This is the magnificent Pearl Harbor, a few miles from Hono- lulu. It contains eight square miles of water and is accessible from the sea by a passage a third of a mile in width. The depth of water in this harbor is from five to ten fathoms. The harbor is many times larger than that of Honolulu, and possesses unequaled fa- cilities for the development of an Eastern commerce. It is expected that by a small appropriation a coral reef, which bars the entrance from the ocean for large vessels, will be removed by the Government of the United States, whereupon this will furnish the best harbor on the Pacific. In the Matter of Mountains. The great volcano of Haleakalau, the largest ex- tinct volcano in the world, is on Maui, the old lava from which has become decomposed and fit for culti- vation. The monster crater is twenty miles in cir- cumference and half a mile deep. There are three great mountains on Hawaii, Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa and Hualalai. The first two are nearly 14,000 feet high, the other 8,000. Upon Mauno Loa are two great volcanoes — Kilauea, upon the side of the mountain, at an elevation of 4,000 feet, and Momuaweoweo, at the top, or at about 13,500 feet elevation. These two volcanoes are still alive. The slopes of these mountains comprise most of the agricultural land upon this island. It is covered 72 Our New Possessions. with a tangle of vegetation, but is susceptible of cul- tivation after this is cleared. There are great fields of sugar cane on this island, the best of which yield from five to eight tons of sugar an acre. As to SCENIC INTEREST. The Pali Road, at the head of Nuuana Valley, six miles from the postoffice in Honolulu, is one of the wonders of the islands. The road leads out from the city, up a gradual ascent to the height of about 1,200 feet. After passing through a beautiful residence section, with finely kept grounds, the scenery on either hand becomes that of the mountain and wilder- ness. The road terminates at a precipice, famed in the war annals of Hawaii as that over which the great chief, Kamehameha, drove his foes. The table-land, 1,200 feet beneath, stretches away to the Pacific, far in the distance, while at the sides there rise up lofty peaks high above the Pali Road. The excursion can be made by carriage or saddle- horse. The Punch Bowl, the crater of an extinct volcano, lies just back of the city, about 500 feet above the sea, and is a favorite place of resort. Mount Tantalus, a peak at the rear of the Punch Bowl, can be climbed by a picturesque road through groves of trees, while from the summit, at an alti- tude of about 2,000 feet, one of the most magnifi- cent views on the islands can be obtained. The favorite bathing resort is at Waikiki, where Hawaiian Islands. 73 there are excellent bath-houses. The water is warm and the beach of a fine sand. The place is popular with moonlight bathing parties. Bicycling is growing more and more popular and the enthusiast recognizes almost every make of American and English wheels. Pearl Harbor is reached by trains of the Oahu Railway and Land Company, which leave the station at Leleo three times daily. The volcano of Kilauea, on the island of Hawaii, generally reached by way of Hilo, is undoubtedly Hawaii's greatest natural wonder. The steamer Kinau leaves Honolulu and arrives at Hilo on the evening of the second day out. After a night's rest at the hotel the start is made in the morning. The road to the volcano was constructed by the Hawaiian Government at a cost of $100,000. The ascent is 4,100 feet, and may be made either on horseback or in carriages. At about the middle of the afternoon the Volcano Hotel, a comfortable inn, is reached. The crater of Kilauea is about three miles in dia- meter. In the daytime it has the appearance of a great pit of black pitch, vague with the rising of clouds of smoke or steam. The active lake of Ha-le- mau-mau is in the southern part of the crater, and at night lights up the whole with shooting flames of greater or less brilliancy, according to the volcano's activity. As to HISTORY* The Hawaiian, or Sandwich Islands, so far as au- thenticated history goes, were discovered by Captain 74 Our New Possessions. Cook in 1778. The Spaniards assert a previous dis- covery, but have succeeded very poorly in convinc- ing anybody of the vaHdity of their claim. The na- tives treated Captain Cook with great kindness until the following year, when he met his death at their hands. At the time of Captain Cook's discovery each of the principal islands had its chief. One of them was named Kamehameha. He conceived the idea of con- quering all the other chiefs, and when Vancouver visited the islands, in 1792, Chief Kamehameha per- suaded him to lay down the keel of a vessel for him. Following this model, the chief increased his fleet to some twenty vessels, introduced firearms among his people, and then made war on the other islands, be- coming monarch of the entire group. His son, Kamehameha H., succeeded him. He did away with idolatry. Then came Kamehameha HI., in whose reign (1844) the integrity of the kingdom was recognized by the United States, France and Great Britain. The succeeding monarchs were Kame- hameha IV., Kamehameha V., Lunalilo, Kalakua, and, in 1891, Queen Liliuokalani. Queen Liliuokalani was opposed to the progressive element in the islands and, in January, 1893, a quar- rel arose between her and her cabinet regarding the new constitution. A Committee of Safety was speed- ily formed, which summarily deposed the queen, im- prisoned her, overthrew the government and substi- tuted a provisional one. The movement could hardly have been accom- plished without bloodshed had it not received the bristling moral support of the American forces there. United States Minister Stevens landing the marines Hawaiian Islands. 75 from the United States war vessels then in Honolulu harbor for the protection of American interests. A republic was proclaimed on July 4, 1894, with Sanford B. Dole as President, and a formal declara- tion of desire to become annexed to the United States was made. On June 11, 1898, the Committee on Foreign Af- fairs of the House of Representatives reported a joint resolution for the annexation of Hawaii. On June 15 the House of Representatives passed the joint resolution by a vote of 209 to 91 — not voting, 49 — the opposition being made up almost entirely of Democrats. On July 6 the Senate passed the joint resolution, by a vote of 42 to 21. Six Democrats voted in affirmative, and 17 Democrats, i Populist, i Republi- can, I Silver Republican and I Silverite in the nega- tive. There were twelve pairs. The President at once approved. He appointed the following commissioners to consider the reciprocal relations of the two countries : President Sanford Dole, of Hawaii ; Justice Frear, of the Hawaiian Su- preme Court ; Senator Morgan, of Alabama ; Senator Cullom, of Illinois, and Representative Hitt, of Illi- nois, Chairman of the House Committee on Foreign Affairs. As to LEPERS. The subject of leprosy as one of the unfortunate institutions of Hawaii has been generally treated with such picturesque license that the following official facts will be found valuable : ^6 Our New Possessions. Where They Live. Isolated in a settlement on the north side of the island of Molokai. It is a peninsula containing about 5,000 acres of land. It is separated from the world by a stormy ocean on the north and a range of almost impassable moun- tains on the south. Their number in 1897 was : Hawaiians 984 Half-castes 62 Chinese 2^ Americans 5 British 4 Germans 4 Portuguese 6 Russians i South Sea Islanders 2 Total 1,100 How They Live. In two villages, Kalaupapa and Kalawao, on oppo- site sides of the peninsula. These contain 716 buildings in all. They include court house, jail, school houses, of- fices, warehouses, work shops, hospitals, dormitories, etc. At Kalawao there is a Roman Catholic home for boys. Hawaiian Islands. 77 At Kalaupapa there is a similar home for girls. There are a Young Men's Christian Association, Protestant churches, Roman Catholic and Mormon churches. There is a general store. There are bands in each town, the members of which are lepers. The lepers may build houses and cultivate land for their own use. They constitute a little world by itself, conducted systematically. How THE Spread of Leprosy is Prevented. Visitors are not allowed, except by special per- mission. None can leave the settlement except by special arrangement. Transportation of lepers is under the care of a board of inspection. Money only leaves the settlement after it is puri- fied, and then on rare occasions. Outside business is transacted mostly by postal orders. Great cleanliness is enforced at the settlement. The disease is not as contagious as has been popu- larly supposed. Jl^ AND ADJACENT ISLES. As to AREA. Length (of Cuba) 730 miles. Average breadth 80 " Area 43, 319 square miles. Coast line, over all 2,200 miles. Coast line, including all indenta- tions 7,000 " For comparison: Area of Pennsylvania 45,215 square miles. Cuba is nearly seven times as long as Long Island, and would stretch from New York city to Cincinnati. The Isle of Pines, which is the only one of Cuba's island satellites of any importance, is 45 miles from east to west and SZ miles from north to south. A de- scription of the island will be found at the end of this division of the volume. Though the area of Cuba is 43,319 square miles, its habitable area can only be estimated at 32,500 square miles ; the balance of 10,819 square miles being made up of desert sand keys that skirt the island impass- able swamps that line its south coast, and the rugged and unexplored uplands of its eastern extremity. Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 79 As to POPULATION. Of the island (estimated, 1894) 1,631,687 Of the aboriginal inhabitants none survived to see the seventeenth century. The present population may be divided into five classes : 1. Natives of Spain — "Peninsulares." 2. Cubans of Spanish descent — "Insulares." 3. Other white persons. 4. Persons wholly or in part of the Afriean race. 5. Eastern Asiatics. The number of white persons of other blood than Spanish is trifling, as is also the number of coolies or Asiatic laborers, imported from the Philippines. Thus reckoning the first three classes together and excluding the fifth entirely, there will be this division of whites of all classes and negroes of all shades — 70 per cent, whites and 30 per cent, negroes. For comparison: The ratio of the races in the city of Washington according to the census of 1890 was 67 per cent, whites and 33 per cent, negroes. By Provinces. Pinar del Rio 225,891 Havana 451,928 Matanzas 259,578 Santa Clara 354,122 Puerto Principe 67,789 Santiago de Cuba 272,379 8o Our New Possessions. Urban population. 889,689 Rustic population 741.998 By Cities. Cuba has thirteen cities whose population exceeds 10,000. They are these : Havana (city proper) 200,448 With suburbs (Vedado, Chorrera, Marianao, Puentes Gordes, La Cienaga, El Principe Tulipan, El Cerro, Regla and Cojunar) 300,000 Matanzas 50,000 Santiago 42,000 Cienfuegos 41,000 Puerto Principe 40>679 Santa Clara (Villa Clara) 34,655 Guanabacoa 28,043 Cardenas 20,505 Sancti Spiritus I7,540 Sagua la Grande 14,000 Trinidad I3,500 Caibarien 12,000 Manzanillo 10,736 Note. — For descriptions of these 13 chief cities see under head of "As to Cities." Of towns containing 5,000 population and over, but less than 10,000 population, there are these 19: Guantanamo 9,000 Pinar del Rio 8,000 Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 8i Macagua 8,000 San Antonio de los Banos 7,5oo San Juan de los Remedios 7,230 Lagunillas 7,030 Colon 7^000 Nuevitas (San Fernando de) 6,991 Giiines : 6,828 Santa Ana 6,350 Bejucal 6,239 Santiago de las Vegas 6,200 Jovellanos (Bemba) 6,000 Guanajay 5^792 Holguin 5^400 Placetas 5,280 Guarra 5,250 Baracoa 5,072 La Isabela (La Boca ; Concha) 5,000 The 64 towns having a population of 1,000 and over, but less than 5,000 are arranged alphabetically as fol- lows: Alfonso XII 3,000 Alquizar 2,700 Arroyo Naranjo 3,000 Artemisa 2,049 Bahia Honda. 1,889 Banta 2,000 Batabano 1,860 Bainoa 1,000 Bayamo 3,634 Bolondron 1,758 82 'Our Nezv Possessions. Cabanas i,454 Camajuani 4,180 Camarones 1,200 Catalina 3,142 Caimito 1,788 Candelaria 1,200 Cayajabos i,353 Cartagena i,497 Ceiba del Agua 2,950 Cervantes 1,560 Cifuentes 1,887 Cimarrones 3,000 Corralillo 2,000 Corral Nuevo 2,092 Consolacion del Sur 2,000 Cuevitas 1,629 Gibara 4,608 Guira de Melena 3,500 Jaruco 2,165 Jiguani i,393 Limonar 2,000 Los Abreus 4,503 Mayari 1,854 Macurigeo 3,650 Managua 1,000 Mantua 1,380 Madruga 1,000 Mariel 1,637 Melena del Sur 1,082 Moron 3,017 Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 83 Nueva Paz 2,737 Palmillas 1,014 Palmira 2,987 Pipian 1,079 Quemados de Guines 2,000 Quivican 2,108 Recreo 2,879 Rodas 2,230 San Antonio de Cabezas i,5oo San Antonio de las Vegas 1,136 San Cristobal 3,522 San Juan y Martinez 2,100 San Jose de las Lajas 2,170 San Nicolas - 1,500 San Luis 3,556 San Juan de las Veras 2,267 Santa Cruz de los Finos 1,244 Santa Cruz del Sur 1,000 Santo Domingo 1,500 Santa Isabel de las Lajas 3,102 Sierra Morena 1,600 Tapaste 1,136 Union de Reyes 4,100 Victoria de las Tunas i,79i Note. — It has been decided by the United States Government to take a complete census of Cuba, not 84 Our New Possessions. only to fix its population but to determine who are citizens and qualified electors in the election which shall be held to establish a representative government. This census will be taken under direction of the military government. As to CLIMATE. In the Matter of Temperature. Average annual temperature: Havana 76.08 Cienfuegos 7650 Matanzas 78.04 Santiago 80.00 For comparison: Washington 54-07 New Orleans 68.08 Hottest month's temperature (average): Havana, July 82.04 Cienfuegos, July 85.50 Matanzas, June 82.02 Santiago, July 83.00 For comparison: Washington, July 76.09 New Orleans, July , 82.04 Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 85 Coldest month's temperature (average): Havana, January 70.03 Cienfuegos, January 67.50 Matanzas, February 72.00 Santiago, January 77.00 For comparison: Washington, January 32.02 New Orleans, January S3.o8 Hottest actual weather: Havana, July, '91 100.06 Cienfuegos, July, '90 93.00 Matanzas, July, '33 93.00 Santiago, August, '63 102.00 Washington, September. , 104.00 New Orleans, July 99.00 Coldest actual weather: Havana, February, '96. 49.06 Cienfuegos, January, '95 48.00 Matanzas, January, '35 51.00 Santiago, January, '90 50.00 Washington, January — .14 New Orleans, January ,.,..,..,., 15.00 86 Our New Possessions. For the interior of the island only two temperature records have been found, namely, for Ubajay and the mines of San Fernando. Ubajay is a village about 15 miles southwest of Havana and about 242 feet above sea level. Its average temperature from four years' observations was 73.6° F. The record is quoted by Baron Humboldt and was made during 1796- 1799. The San Fernando mines are about 150 miles east- ward of Havana and 554 feet above sea level. The temperature record is for the year 1839 and shows an average of 75°. From these records the average an- nual temperature of the interior of the island would appear to be considerably lower than on the coast. It is known, too, that in the interior, at elevations of over 300 feet, the thermometer occasionally falls to the freezing point in winter. Hoar frost is not un- common, and during north winds thin ice may form. It hails frequently, but snow is unknown in any part of the island. In the Matter of Humidity. The relative humidity of Cuba's atmosphere aver- ages 75 per cent, of saturation, and, while there is actually a wet and a dry season, judged by the amount of rainfall, it is a significant climatic fact that the mean relative humidity of the twelve months differs hardly enough to warrant characterizing one month as being drier or damper than another. That is, the air is always heavily charged with moisture. The following figures, showing the percentage of humid- ity in the twelve months of the year at Havana, bear out this statement in a remarkable fashion : ^3 93 62 70 58 70 68 67 62 69 67 74 ez 70 62 72 70 78 69 78 68 77 64 72 C«6a and Adjacent Isles. 87 Month. At 6 a. m. At noon. At 6 p. m. January 85 February 85 March 85 April 84 May 85 June 89 July 88 August 88 September 90 October 89 November 87 December 82 In the Matter of Rainfall. The rainfall shows to a greater degree than the temperature the influence of locality and season of the year. As in other lands on the border of the tropics, the year is divided between a hot, wet season, corre- sponding to the northern declination of the sun, and a cool, dry period. From May to October is called the wet season, though rain falls in every month of the year. With May spring begins, rain and thunder are of almost daily occurrence, and the temperature rises high, with little variation. The period from November to April is called the dry season. For seven years the mean annual rainfall at Havana in the wet season has been observed to be 27.8 inches, and of the dry months 12.7. The eastern part of the island receives more rain than the western. There are seldom over twenty rainy Our New Possessions. days in any one month, the average being from eight to ten. The rainfall is generally in the afternoon, and on an average there are only seventeen days in the year on which it rains in both forenoon and after- noon. So far as present meteorological records go, a de- scri-ption of the rainfall of Cuba is practically that of the rainfall at Havana, the short and fragmentary records that have been kept at Matanzas and Santiago hardly being representative. Taking, then, the rain- fall at Havana for the years 1885-1897 inclusive, these are the figures : Year. Rainy season ( Jnne to October, inclusive, 5 months). Dry season (Noveni' ber to May, inclusive, 7 months) 1885... 26.79 inches 21.38 inches 1886... 47.49 ' 17.04 ' 1887... 32.38 ' 16.95 ' 1888... 2397 ' 29-54 * 1889... 35.71 * 24.02 * 1890. . . 28.15 ' 28.41 * 1891. .. 38.02 * 20.51 ' 1892. . . 49.49 ' 8.81 ' 1893... 38.95 ' 21.64 * 1894. .. 38.08 ' 12.63 ' 1895... 38.78 ' 17.07 * 1896. .. 31.09 ' 19.97 * 1897... 27.70 * 18.51 ' Last year Havana's monthly record of rainy days was as follows : Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 89 Rainy days. January 8 February 7 March 6 April 4 May 8 June 10 July 12 August 12 September 14 October 9 November 8 December 6 Total 104 In the Matter of Health. While great things may be expected of the Ameri- can system of sanitation as applied to Cuba, it must not be overlooked that the island is a tropical country and that its climate is very different from that of even our warmest sections. Acclimatization is a necessary process, and during that process the following simple rules will be found of value : If possible, the first visit to Cuba should be made in the cool season. Even then linen or cotton garments will be needed. During the period of acclimatization one should guard against any excess of work or pleas- ure, late evenings, bodily or mental fatigue, exposure to the sun, or rapid cooling off, or any cause that might produce illness. go Our New Possessions. Exercise on foot, horseback or in a carriage is nec- essary for one who is visiting this land for the first time, but only in the morning and evening; washing and bathing are also very good, first in tempered and after a few days in cold water; baths should not be taken after hard work, and the best time is the morn- ing or at noon and after the body has been at rest. While ready perspiration is one of the essentials to the preservation of health, danger also lurks in it, for when in such a condition a few moments in the shade, exposure to a breeze will bring on a cold more quickly in Cuba than in any other place outside the tropics. If it is noticed that the perspiration is stopping on a warm day, a physician should be consulted immedi- ately, and also in the case of giddiness, headache, etc. As to food, the visitor should use wholesome and nutritious meats, and the salt and fresh water fish that abound in these regions. It is also well to use certain condiments, such as pepper, cloves, allspice, cinnamon and others that heighten and flavor food and aid digestion ; though used, they should not be abused. The moderate use of certain tropical fruits to which northerners are accustomed, such as oranges, lemons, limes and pineapples, is advantageous with- out question, but there are hosts of others, mostly of a soft, squashy nature and a sweet sickish taste, such as the mango, sapote, alligator pear, etc., that it is wise to avoid. The combination of alcohol with them is almost deadly, and it is well to let the banana alone. The continuous use of alcohol causes a marked de- terioration in the constitution, being one of the greatr est obstacles to acclimatization. However, a little rum mixed with water is a stimulating and whole- some drink, especially on hot days. Soft drinks an^ Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 91 lemonade are not good, as they cause a kind of ple- thora which turns into diarrhoea. In a word, live soberly and moderately, keep clean and use common sense, and Cuba's climate will not down you. While much that has been written concerning Cuba would seem to indicate that it is a veritable pest hole, such descriptions actually cover only the worst condi- tions and comparatively a small portion of the island, for probably at least two-thirds of it are as healthy, even in the summer, as any country in the world. Cases of longevity are not wanting. There are numerous instances where natives have attained 100 years, some 130 years, and there is even one known to have lived to the age of 150, Longevity is most fre- quent among the colored population. AstoDISTANCES. All reckoned in statute miles to Havana. From cities of the United States. Miles. Key West 100 New Orleans 690 Mobile 640 Tampa 35° Savannah 613 Charleston 662 Philadelphia I,i37 New York 1,215 Boston 1,348 92 Our New Possessions. From foreign cities. Quebec 2,421 Vera Cruz 809 Rio de Janeiro 3,536 Buenos Ayres 4,653 Montevideo 4,553 Port of Spain 1,521 Bermuda 1,150 Gibraltar 4,030 Plymouth (Eng.) 3,702 From Cuban cities and towns. Artemisa 45 Baracoa 765 Batabano 33 Bayamo 609 Bemba ( Jovellanos) 90 Candelaria 29 Cobre , 669 Coloma 128 Consolacion del Sur 100 Guantanamo 730 Guanajay 35 Guines 46 Holguin , 613 Jaruco 23 La Union 80 Las Vegas 61 Marianao 7 Manzanillo. 636 Madruga 52 Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 93 Matanzas 56 Moron 276 Nuevitas 407 Pinar del Rio 113 Punta Brava 14 Puerto Principe 345 Rincon 14 Sagua la Grande 212 Sancti Spiritus 270 San Antonio de los Banos 21 San Felipe 26 San Juan de los Remedios 235 Santa Clara 209 Santiago de Cuba 682 Santiago de las Vegas 13 Trinidad 247 As to COST and TIME in GETTING THERE. There are now many ways of reaching and sending to Cuba, by rail and sea, and by the all-sea route, as witness the foHowing list : By the Plant System there is the choice of two routes : (i) The Florida and West Indian Limited, via Charleston, Savannah and the West Coast Railroad. Trains by this route leave New York daily 9.20 a. m., arrive Port Tampa next day 8.30 p. m. (2) The New York and Florida Special, via Jack- sonville and St. Augustine. Trains by this route leave 94 Our Nezv Possessions. New York daily 12.20 p. m., arrive Port Tampa next day 8.50 p. M. Both these trains connect daily, except Sundays and Wednesdays, with the U. S. mail steamers of the Plant Line, for Key West and Havana, according to the following schedule: Steamship New Olivette leaves Port Tampa Mon- days and Thursdays, 9 130 p. m. ; arrives Havana Wednesdays and Saturdays, 6 a. m. Steamship Whitney leaves Port Tampa Saturdays, 9.30 P. Ai. ; arrives Havana Mondays, 6 a. m. Steamship Yarmouth leaves Port Tampa Tuesdays and Fridays, 2 p. m. ; arrives Havana Wednesdays and Saturdays, 2 p. m. Note. — The New Olivette and Whitney touch at Key West ; the Yarmouth does not. Children under five years of age carried free; five years of age and under twelve, pay half fare ; twelve years and over, full fare. One hundred and fifty pounds of baggage carried free on each full fare ticket, and 75 pounds on each half fare ticket. Baggage in excess of 150 pounds on full fare ticket will be charged for. Any piece of bag- gage weighing more than 250 pounds must be for- warded by express or freight. Through one way tickets from New York to Ha- vana, first class, are $5475 ; round trip, $99. Pullmans run on these trains, the rates to Tampa being as follows : From New York, double berth, $8.50; drawing room, %2)^. From St. Louis, double berth, $8; draw- ing room, $30. From Chicago, double berth, $8.50; drawing room, $32. Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 95 By the Miami Route there is also a choice of two ways: (i) By the Florida East Coast Railway. (2) By the Atlantic Coast Line. Over the first route trains leave New York daily at 12.05 A. M. ; arrive at Miami next day at 10.30 p. m. Over the second route trains leave New York daily at 8.50 p. M.; arrive at Miami next day at 10.30 p. m. From Miami the steamship Miami plies direct to Havana, according to the following schedule : Leaves Miami Sundays and Wednesdays at 10.30 p. M. Arrives Havana Mondays and Thursdays at 3 p. m. Through Pullman sleepers and dining cars between New York and Jacksonville and chair cars between Jacksonville and Miami. Over both the Plant and Miami roads the trains run direct to the steamer's side. The cover-all time on the Miami route is as fol- lows : New York to Havana 63 hours Boston to Havana 68 " Philadelphia to Havana 551^^ *' Baltimore to Havana 531/^ " Washington to Havana 513^ " The rates by this route are the same as those over the Plant System. All first-class tickets to Havana include meals and berth on steamer. Those who wish to still more break the journey can take steamer from New York, Boston or Baltimore to gS Our Nezv Possessions. Savannah by the Ocean Steamship Company of Sa- vannah, connecting at Savannah with the Florida and West Indian Limited for Tampa or via Jackson- ville to Miami. Steamers of the Ocean Steamship Company of Sa- vannah leave New York from Pier 34 North river, foot of Spring street, every day at 5 p. m., except Sunday and Monday, Steamers of the same company leave Boston every Wednesday at noon and every Saturday at 3 p. m., from Lewis' Wharf, Note. — Steamers sailing from Boston on Wednes- days touch at New York. Steamers sailing on Satur- days go direct to Savannah. From Savannah to Bos- ton all sailings are direct. Steamers of li^e Merchants' and Miners' Transpor- tation Company (working with the Savannah line) leave Baltimore from the foot of West Falls avenue at 4 p. m. every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. If the passenger elect to travel via Port Tampa he must take such train as will enable him to connect with the steamship Mascotte, of the Plant Steamship Line, which leaves Port Tampa every Monday, Thursday and Saturday at 9 p. m., reaching Havana every Wednesday, Saturday and Monday at 6 a. m. If he elect to travel via Miami he must take such train as will enable him to connect with the steamship Lincoln, of the Florida East Coast Steamship Com- pany, which leaves Miami Sundays and Wednesdays at II p. m. and reaches Havana on Mondays and Thursdays at 3 p. m. The passenger rates on the Savannah Line of steamers are as follows : Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 97 From New York to Savannah. First class, one way $20.00 First class, excursion 32.00 Intermediate, one way 15.00 Intermediate, excursion 24.00 Steerage, one way 10.00 Philadelphia passengers are booked via New York at same rates. From Boston to Savannah. (Via direct ship or Sound Lines and New York.) First class, one way $22.00 First class, excursion 36.00 Intermediate, one way 17.00 Intermediate, excursion 28.00 Steerage, one way 11. 75 First-class and excursion tickets include meals and berths in staterooms on steamer. Intermediate tickets include meals and berths in staterooms in intermediate cabin. Steerage passengers are furnished with mattresses and meals on steamer. Children under five years, free; between five and twelve years, half fare; over twelve years, same as adult. Trunks (except one small steamer trunk) are not allowed in staterooms. Baggage can be checked through to destination the same as by rail. Through tickets can be purchased by these steamers 98 Our New Possessions. to Havana, either via Tampa or Miami, at the follow- ing rates : From New York. Cabin $52.25 Excursion (cabin) 91.00 Intermediate 42.25 Excursion (intermediate) 75-50 Steerage 31-75 'From Boston, Worcester, Springfield, Providence, Newport or Fall River. Cabin $54-25 Excursion (cabin) 95.00 Intermediate 44-25 Excursion (intermediate) 79-50 Steerage 33-50 First-class tickets include meals and berth on steamer from Port Tampa or Miami to Havana. All tickets include meals and berth on Savannah Line between New York or Boston and Savannah. Those who wish to take an all-sea voyage have the following routes to select from : La Compania Trasatlantica, J. M. Ceballos & Co. Steamers on this line leave New York the loth, 20th and 30th of each month, arriving on the 14th, 24th and 4th, respectively. The steamer sailing from New York on the 20th Cuba and Adjacent Isles. gg and arriving at Havana the 24th connects at Havana with the steamer leaving there about the end of each month for the principal ports of Cuba and Porto Rico. The steamer leaving New York on the 30th con- nects at Havana with the steamer that leaves on the loth of the following month for San Juan de Porto Rico. The rates over this line are as follows, all being from New York : ^, „ '^^ To To To Class. Havana. Santiago. Nuevitas. Gibara. First cabin.... $37 $65 $60 $65 Second cabin . . 26 45 40 43 Steerage 17 30 25 26 Excursion Tickets, 25 per cent, discount. Families comprising parents, their children and servants will be allowed a reduction of 15 per cent, on established rates. Children from seven to twelve years, half fare; from three to seven years, quarter fare; less than three years, free. Each first cabin passenger is not allowed over 600 pounds of baggage. Each second cabin passenger is not allowed over 400 pounds. The New York and Cuba Mail Steamship Com- pany (Ward Line).— Steamers of this line leave Piers 16 and 17, East river, every two or three days for Havana and every week for Guantanamo, Santi- ago, Cienfuegos and other ports on the south side of Cuba. It is both a freight and passenger company. The Munson Steamship Line.— Steamers of this 100 Our New Possessions. line sail as follows : From New York to Matanzas, Cardenas, Sagua, Caibarien, Nuevitas, Gibara and Baracoa, every two weeks. From Halifax to Havana, monthly. From Galveston to Havana, every two weeks. Pensacola Cuban Steamship Line. — Regular semi-monthly service from Pensacola to Havana and other Cuban ports. The Earn Line. — Philadelphia to Havana and San- tiago and Baltimore to Havana. Steamers every twenty days. Other lines, mostly freighters, are these : The Mo- bile Steamship Company, from Mobile to Cuban ports ; the Mutual Steamship Line, from New York to Cienfuegos, Manzanillo, Santiago, Gibara and Nue- vitas. As to MAIL and CABLE SERVICE. Mails are sent to Cuba by every available steamer, the rate being five cents on every half ounce. There are four cable lines connected with Cuba. The International Ocean Telegraph Company has a cable from Florida to Havana ; the Cuban Submarine Com- pany has a cable connecting Havana with Santiago de Cuba and Cienfuegos; the West India and Panama Company has a cable connecting Havana with Santiago de Cuba, Jamaica, Porto Rico, the Lesser Antilles and the Isthmus of Panama; the Compagnie Franqaise de Cables Sous-Marins has a Cuba and Adjacent Isles. lOi line connecting Havana with Santiago de Cuba, Haiti, Santo Domingo, Venezuela and Brazil. The only three towns in Cuba having cable connec- tions are Havana, Cienfuegos and Santiago. Cable rates from New York are as follows : By the Interna- By the U. S. & By the W. tional Ocean Hay ti Tel. & India To Telegraph Cable Cable Co. Co. Co. Per word. Per word. Per word. Havana $0.40 $040 $0.90 Caibarien, Los Abreus, Pla- cetas, Remedi- 08, Sagua la Grande, Santa Clara & Cien- fuegos 60 .60 .60 Caimanera, Guantanamo & Santiago 73 -73 -73 Press rates to Havana, 10 cents per word. The telegraph and telephone systems in Cuba be- longed to the Spanish Government, but the latter farmed them out for a limited number of years to a company called the Red Telefonica de la Havana. Since the American occupation they have passed un- der the control of the United States Military Gover- nor. Nearly all the public and private buildings in Havana and its suburbs are connected by telephone and telephones are in great favor as labor saving de- vices in nearly all the big towns and cities. The Statesman's Year Book, 1898, says that there are 2,300 miles of telegraph line, with 153 offices, in Cuba; mes- sages in 1894, 357,914- 102 Our Neiv Possessions. As to TRADE. Because of revolution and foreign war, Cuba's com- merce has not only been intermittent, but the records of trade have been illy kept or not at all. The fol- lowing facts and figures are, however, reliable: The imports consist mainly of jerked beef from South America, codfish from the British North American provinces, flour from Spain, rice from Carolina, Spain and the East Indies, wine and olive oil from Spain, boards for boxes and barrels from North America, coal from Europe and North Amer- ica and petroleum from the United States, besides large quantities of British, German and Belgian manufactures and hardware. Cattle are imported from Florida and the coasts of the Gulf of Mexico. The exports consist of sugar, tobacco, coffee, brandy, copper, wax, honey, cotton, leather, horn, cocoanut oil, timber and fruit. The latest year for which the statistics of the com- merce of the island with all countries can be compiled in a comparative form is 1896, for which year the fol- lowing figures of values are reasonably accurate : Imports Exports Conntry. From Cuba. To Cuba. United Kingdom $174,187 $5,843,892 Belgium 208,304 1,089,239 France 3»338,900 424,600 United States 40,017,730 7,530,880 Spain 9,681,120 33,474,680 The varying trade of the United States with Cuba for the years inclusive 1891-1897 is shown in the fol- Cuba and Adjacent Isks. 103 lowing statement. The trade of 1898 amounted prac- tically to nothing : Imports from Cuba to the United States. Free. Dutiable. Total. I89I.. ..$26,044,502 $35,669,893 $61,714,395 1892. . .. 66,140,835 11,790,836 77,931,671 1893. . .. 66,049,369 12,657,137 78,706,506 1894. .. 67,418,289 8,259,972 75,678,261 1895.. ,. 17,684,765 35,186,494 52,871,259 1896. . . 2,074,763 37,942,967 40,017,730 1897. . . 1,270,059 17,136,756 18,406,815 Exports from the United States to Cuba. Domestic. Foreign. Total. 1891.. .$11,929,605 $295,283 $12,224,888 1892. . . 17,622,411 331,159 17,953,570 1893.. . 23,604,094 553,604 24,157,698 1894.. • 19,855,237 270,084 20,125,321 1895.. . 12,533,260 274,401 12,807,661 1896.. . 7,312,348 218,532 7,530,880 1897.. • 7,599,757 660,019 8,259,776 It will be seen here that the years of great contrast are those of 1893 and 1897. In 1893 our trade with Cuba reached its maximum since 1874. In 1897 it reached its minimum, except, of course, in 1898. The imports and exports for these two contrasting years are as follows : 104 ^^^ New Possessions. Principal Imports from Cuba Into the United States. Articles. 1893. 1897. Free of duty : Fruits, including nuts $2,347,800 $154,422 Molasses 1,081,034 5,448 Sugar 60,637,631 — Wood, unmanufactured.... 1,071,123 63,670 Other articles 911,781 1,046,519 Dutiable : Tobacco — Unmanufactured 8,940,058 2,306,067 Manufactured 2,727,030 1,971,214 Iron ore 641,943 — Sugar — 11,982,473 Other articles 348,106 877,003 Total imports $78,706,506 $18,406,815 Principal Exports from the United States to Cuba. Articles. 1893. 1897. D Wheat flour $2,821,557 $564,638 Corn 582,050 247,905 Carriages and street cars and parts of 316,045 3,755 Cars, passenger and freight, for steam railroads 271,571 9,202 Coal 931,371 638,912 Locks, hinges and other builders' hardware 395,964 49,386 Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 105 Railroad bars, or rails, of steel $326,654 $14,650 Saws and tools 243,544 34,686 Locomotives 418,776 20,638 Stationary engines 130,652 1,189 Boilers and parts of engines. . 322,284 35,578 Wire 321,120 35,905 Manufactures of leather 191,394 39,753 Mineral oil 514,808 306,916 Hog products 5,401,022 2,224,485 Beans and peas 392,962 276,635 Potatoes. 554,153 331,553 Boards, deals, planks, joists, ^tc 1,095,928 286,387 Household furniture 217,126 34,288 Other articles 8,708,717 3,i03,'3i5 Total exports $24,157,698 $8,259,776 Spain's commerce with her lost dependency for the years 1891-1896 inclusive was as follows: Imports from Exports from Cuba to Spain. Spain to Cuba. ^^91 $7,193,173 $22,168,050 1892 9,570,399 28,046,636 ^^93 5,697,291 24,689,373 ^^94 7,265,120 22,592,943 1895 7,176,105 26,298,497 ^896 4,257,360 26,145,800 Lastly, the following table is decidedly interesting as showing in what articles Europe and the United States have respectively controlled the import trade io6 Our New Possessions. into Cuba. It is compiled from the British Foreign Office papers of 1897 and gives the trade of 1896. From Europe to U.S. to Articles. Cuba. Cuba. Total Value Butter, cases 6,338 54 $3i9,700 Cheese, cases 1,881 44,358 323,^73 Rice, hundredweights. ..853,538 23,800 2,807,481 Beer, barrels 4,629 2,860 82,379 Beer, cases 6,574 2,044 43,090 Salt fish, drums 5,036 79,52i 686,000 Flour, bags 404,019 100,321 4,285,522 Coal, tons 29,050 180,487 2,085,370 Potatoes, barrels 53,083 231,774 996,702 Maize, bags — 97,303 467,049 Lard, hundredweights. .. — 194,308 2,078,811 Total values $I4,I75,777 As to RAILROADS and TRAVEL. The following, it is believed, is the first tabulation made of the railroads of Cuba : SYSTEMS. Ferrocarril Occidente (Western Railway). Miles. Havana to Pinar del Rio 113 Branch : Vinales to Muelle IS Total of system 128 Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 107 Ferrocarriles Unidos (United Railways). Havana to Guanajay , . 36 Havana to Matanzas 56 Havana to Bemba 34 Havana to Batabano 36 Havana to La Union 80 Branches : Matanzas to Giiines 39 Regla to Guanabacoa 2 Robles to Madruga 5 Total of system 288 Ferrocarriles Unidos de Caibarien. Caibarien to Cifuentes 47 Caibarien to Placetas (via Camajuani) 35 Palmira to Cartagena 29 Branches : La Luz to Lequito 3 Bartolome to Tobar 14 Zulueta to Yera 11 Zulueta to Altamira 5 Total of system 144 Ferrocarril Cienfuegos-Santa Clara. Cienfuegos to Santa Clara 43 Branches : Palmira to San Frances 6 Nuevas to Cruces 8 Ranchuelo to San Juan de Los Yeros 6 Ranchuelo to Concepcion 5 Cruces to Alegre 10 Total of system 78 io8 Our New Possessions. Ferrocarril de Sagua la Grande. Isabella to Cruces 54 Ferrocarril de Matanzas. Matanzas to Murga 62 Branches : La Union to Alfonso XII 3 Navajas to Venero San Juan 50 Total of system 115 Ferrocarril de Puerto Principe-Nuevitas. Puerto Principe to Nuevitas 50 Jucaro to Moron 38 Total of system 88 Ferrocarril de Sancti Spiritus. Sancti Spiritus to Tunas de Zaza 22 Branches : Casilda to Byaba 19 Sagua la Grande to Cayuagua 10 Total of system 51 Ferrocarril de Sabanilla y Moroto. Santiago to San Luis 20 Branch : Cristo to Minas de Ponupo 12 Total of system 32 Cuba and Adjacent Isles. log Ferrocarriles Cardenas-Jucaro. Cardenas to Santa Clara 107 Cardenas to Yaguaramas 67 Branches : Recreo to Itabo 15 Bemba to Navajas 11 Colon to Guareiras 6 Altamisal to Macagua 21 Manacas to Mamey 12 Manacas to Hacienda , 13 Total of system 252 Ferrocarril de Holguin. Holguin to Jibara 26 Ferrocarril de Guantanamo. Jamaica to La Caimanera 19 Juragua Iron Co. Railroad. Santiago to America 19 Spanish- American Iron Co. Railroad. Daiquiri to Vinent 3 Sigua Iron Co. Railroad. Sigua to Arroyo la Plata 5 Suburban Roads. Havana to Marianao 8 Havana to Guanabacoa 3 Havana to Chorrera and Vedado 4 Havana to Amilo -5 110 Our New Possessions. Note. — It is so impossible to give anything like an accurate statement of the business and earnings of the Cuban railroads that it has been thought better to give none than to present misleading figures. Then, too, many of the roads are private concerns, which refuse to furnish returns. Generally speaking, the traffic on the main public railroads in normal times has been both extensive and remunerative. The first railroad was built in Cuba in 1834, running from Havana to Giiines, a distance of forty-four miles. In 1837 a line was constructed from Nuevitas to Puerto Principe ; also one from Cardenas to Bemba (Jovellanos). From time to time other lines were commenced, some of which were finished and are to- day a part of the railway system of the island ; others were abandoned or consolidated. Though the vari- ous lines constituting the railway system of Cuba are owned by different companies, there is practically but one trunk road, that centering in Havana, to or from which tflie major portion of traffic naturally comes or goes. While the lines of roads, both in number and mile- age, have been continually growing, railroad construc- tion has received many setbacks through insurrection, financial and industrial stagnation and the lack of energy and enterprise of the natives. By far the largest portion of the trackage is of light weight, iron rails being still in use on many roads. All the roadbeds are rough. The roads are generally single track and 4 feet 8^2 inches gauge. The rolling stock is principally of the American type, but not all of American manufacture. The locomotives are wood burners, the passenger and freight cars smaller than Cuba and Adjacent Isles. tit ours and the whole outfit about thirty years behind the age. Railroad building in Cuba is accompanied by many obstacles. On the table lands are found streams and chasms which must be trestled, numerous hills and ridges to be cut through, while the forests with their luxuriant growth of vegetation are almost impene- trable. In the lowlands are to be found large swamps and marshes which must be crossed, dense forests and numerous low-banked streams which often over- flow their banks and flood the whole country. In the Matter of Other Travel. Outside of the railroads, personal and bipsiness communication on the island is very uncertain. A so- called system of public roads or "calzadas" prevails in the neighborhood of the principal cities, but the good character and passability of these roads is short lived, and travel over the island, whether on foot, on horse or in carriage, is tedious and uncertain. The national carriage is the volante. It consists of a two-seated carriage, slung low down by leather straps from the axle of two large wheels, and has shafts fifteen feet long. The horse in the shaft is led by a postilion, v/hose horse is also harnessed to the carriage with traces. In case of a long and rough journey a third horse is harnessed on the other side of the shafts in the same manner. Ox carts and pack mules are used for conveying goods in the interior of the island, outside of the rail- way lines. A liberal number of these roads is shown on maps. 112 Our New Possessions. but too great reliance on their actual and entire exist- ence should not be had because of this fact. Internal means of communication, on an extensive scale, seems never to have been considefed as essen- tial to Cuba. The island is long and narrow and pos- sesses many fine harbors. Transportation of com- modities is accordingly carried on by water ; the land transport being confined to the short trips from the inland towns to the seaports. The natural tendency of travel by land has therefore been to the nearest sea- port. It has been poetically but truthfully said of many Cuban roads that they are fit only for the birds. As to BUSINESS CHANCES. It is the fairest thing to say at the outset that Cuba is not the place for a poor man. Native and import- ed labor is altogether too cheap. For commercial enterprise and investment, however, it offers unusual advantages. December 23 Secretary of War Alger issued an or- der that no franchise or concession should be granted except upon the approval of the Major-General com- manding the United States military forces and the authorization of the Secretary. Later the supervi- sion of these concessions was placed in the hands of a Colonial Commission, but in the gradual transference of the civil power to the Cubans the right to grant these concessions is being claimed by them. As examples of the .class of investment that is being energetically carried on may be mentioned these : Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 113 The Regla Ferries and Railroad (Havana Subur- ban) have been bought by the Harvey syndicate for $293,000, and an electric light plant at Cienfuegos is to be established, with a capital of $190,000, and the same syndicate has secured a franchise for twenty miles of electric railroad in and around Santiago, the control of the electric plant and a contract for light- ing the city. A syndicate of American capitalists is preparing to build a series of railroads across the island and a backbone railroad the length of the island, the capi- tal already at command being quoted at $10,000,000. Much of the freight carrying is done by coasters and considerable capital is being invested in this di- rection. English capitalists already have a strong hold on the railroads and are doing their best to extend their interests. French capitalists are also active. The business men of all the Atlantic board cities are busily studying the outlook and extending their trade, and from what has been written under the heads of General Description, Cities and Commerce will be found valuable hints as to what Cuba gets, what she most needs and the countries from which she draws her supplies. Money will have the first chance in Cuba, brains the next and labor the third. Not that American labor following in the wake of American investments will not be well paid in time, but at present neither labor nor brains can accomplish much more than they do here. The application of all three, however, even if the monetary capital is small, should produce marked results. Real estate, for example, ofifers some excellent op- 114 Our Mew Possessions. portunities for small investors. There is a great future for fruit raisers, and small stores, bustlingly conducted, would soon mean large fortunes, especially if the storekeepers delivered the goods. So would moderate sized department stores. As to PRODUCTS. Agricultural. Cuba's tobacco has been celebrated all over the world as the best in the world. It is indigenous to the island. While the "Vuelta Abajo" (lower valley) tobacco stands as a synonym for the finest grade of the leaf, it is by no means the only excellent tobacco of Cuba. The Vuelta is situated in the centre of Pinar del Rio Province and is the garden spot of the island, as well as the most prosperous and thickly set- tled. The tobacco plantations in the fertile country surrounding Puerto Principe, of Santa Clara prov- ince, of the country back of Matanzas, and of the alluvial plains and valleys around Havana, all furnish a splendid leaf. The tobacco crop on an average is estimated at 560,- 000 bales of no pounds each, or 61,600.000 pounds. Tobacco leaf exported in 1895 amounted to 30,466,000 pounds; in 1896 to 16,823,000 pounds, the decrease being due to the decree of May, 1896, forbidding tobacco leaf exports except to Spain. In 1896 the cigars exported numbered 185,914,000. The Royal Cuba and Adjacent Isles. lis Imperial Factory of La Honradez, in Havana, pro- duced 2,532,000 cigarettes. About 80,000 persons are ordinarily engaged in the cultivation of tobacco. The latest attempt at an estimate placed the number of tobacco plantations or fields at 9,500. In normal times Cuba is one of the most favored countries of the world for the economical production of sugar. The total sugar crop of any other West In- dian island is equal only to the output of three or four of the largest Cuban manufactories. Of the other cane-sugar countries of the world Java is the only one which comes within 50 per cent, of the amount of sugar produced annually in Cuba in normal times. The reasons for the extent of the crops and profitable character of the production are these : (i) The favorable climate and the fertility of the soil. The rainfall, about 50 inches, is so distributed that irrigation is not a necessity. (2) The centralization of the estates, with conse- quent large sugar houses, these indeed having a larger daily capacity than those of any other country. (3) The proximity of the United States, affording a cash market for the product. (4) Low cost of labor. What this industry will be developed into under the fostering care of American enterprise may easily be imagined. If all the land suitable to the growth of sugar were devoted to this industry it is estimated that Cuba might supply the entire Western Hemis- phere with sugar. The island has already produced Ii6 Our New Possessions. in a single year for exportation 1,000,000 tons, and its capabilities are still in the experimental stage. The yield in 1895 was 1,040,000 tons and 400,000 tons of molasses. The "ingenios," or sugar plantations, vary in ex- tent from 500 to 10,000 acres and number 1,500. The first coffee plantation in Cuba was established in 1748. There are now about 1,000 plantations or "cafetales," varying in extent from 150 to 1,000 acres and employing a general average of from 50 to 60 negroes to each 1,000 acres. Other agricultural products of Cuba are cocoa, cot- ton, sarsaparilla, vanilla, copal, China root, cassia, Palma Christi, mustard, pepper, ginger, licorice, bal- sam, rubber; and of fruits, the pineapple, custard apple, cocoanut, plum, guava, banana, orange, citron, lemon and mango. Agriculture, however, is in an altogether unsatis- factory condition, and the crops are due rather to the fertility of the soil and pushing power of the climate than to the energy of the workers. Mineral. The mineral wealth of Cuba is simply enormous, yet it may be said to be practically untouched. Gold and silver have not been found in paying quantities, although the early settlers mined a con- siderable quantity of each. Copper was mined at Cobre (12 miles from San- tiago) before Columbus discovered the island. In the early part of the present century English capital- Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 117 ists purchased the Cobre mines, shipping annually to the United States from 1828 to 1840 about $3,000,000 worth of ore. The mines were closed, but not ex- hausted, in 1867. The iron ore found in Santiago province is among the richest in the world, yielding from 62 to 67 per cent, of pure iron. The Juragua and Daiquiri iron companies (American) have a combined capital of $5,000,000, the shipments from their mines running from 30,000 to 50,000 tons of ore per month. Unde- veloped mines of equal value are scattered over this province and in Pinar del Rio. Manganese ore in rich deposits is found in the Sierra Maestra range, stretching west from Santiago to Manzanillo, American capital opened a manga- nese mine at Ponupo and built a railroad to it, but the enterprise was stopped in war times. Nearly all the manganese used in the United States comes from the Black Sea regions. Asphaltum deposits are of frequent occurrence and have been mined to a small extent; antimony, with lead, exists near Holguin ; crude petroleum is found in Havana and other provinces; salt is deposited in great quantities in many parts of the island; quick- silver has been found near Remedies (Santa Clara province), while among the other mineral products with which the island is rich are clays, limestone, ochre, chrome, chalk, marble, jasper, loadstone, mold- ing sand and talc. The mountains are of coral formation, while the lowlands seem to be composed largely of fossils of sea matter from prehistoric times and are extremely rich in limes and phosphates. ii8 Our New Possessions. Animal. A large proportion of the wealth of CMba is found in its domestic animals, including chiefly the ox, horse, hog, sheep, goats and mules, numbering many million head. Cuba contains 3,300 breeding farms. Domestic fowls include geese, turkeys, peacocks and pigeons, and there are over 200 species of indigenous birds. In the rivers, bays and inlets are to be found more than 700 kinds of fish. Oysters and other shellfish are numerous but not good. The only animal peculiar to Cuba is the jutia, shaped like a rat. There are a few deer in the swamps and the woods abound in wild dogs and cats. The manati or sea-cow frequents the shores. Before the war horses and mules were so numerous that no one thought of traveling afoot. Sheep do not thrive in Cuba, the wool having been replaced by hair. Forest and Timber. Of the 20,000,000 acres of wild and uncultivated land in Cuba 12,000,000 are of virgin forests. These forests are full of the most valuable timber trees. The palm is the most common of all the Cuban trees, and perhaps the most valuable. There are a great many varieties. Of these the palma real (royal palm) is the most common, and, like the maguey of Mexico, is the mainstay of the natives. The other woods of importance are the mahogany, ebony, cedar, ncana, a tree with a hard reddish wood; gine-bra- Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 119 hacha, a kind of fir; guayacan, jigui, maranon, a tree which yields a gum resembling gum arabic ; oak, pino de tea, a torch pine; evergreen oak, sabicu, ocuje, a wood much used for construction purposes; sabina, nogal, walnut, majagua, a tree from which very dur- able cordage is made ; Brazilian wood, capeche wood, fustic, cocoa, banana and the magnificent cieba. So plentiful and extravagantly used are mahogany and ebony that railroad ties and wharves are to be found made of these woods. As to COST of LIVING and WAGES PAID, Hotel Rates. The following is a representative list of the leading hotels in the principal cities — Cuban rates : Havana.— Ingletcrra, $4 ; Roma Grand Continental, $3; Hotel Pasaje, $3; Gran Hotel Mascotte, $2.50 to $3. Santiago.— TrensLTd's, $3; Telegrafo, $2; Cafe Venus, $3; Hispano- Americano, $2. Matansas. — Louvre, $4. Cienfuegos.— Union, $4 ; La Mascota. Cardenas.— VnivGrssd, $2; El Leon de Oro, La Marina. Sagua la Grande. — Telegrafo, $3, Puerto Principe.— E\ Telegrafo, $2. Besides these hotels there are boarding houses (Casas de huespedes) in nearly all the towns of im- portance, where the rates run from $6 to $10 per week. 120 Our New Possessions. WAGES PAID. Domestics. Cooks, men $17.00 to $40.00 per month Cooks, women 8.00 to 1 5.00 per month Porters 10.00 to 20.00 per month Chambermaids 6.00 to 12.00 per month Child nurses 8.00 to 12.00 per month House boys or girls 6.00 to 8.00 per month Various. Office clerks $20.ooto$ioo.ooper month Store clerks 18.00 to 40.00 per month Bakers 17.00 to 25.00 per month Tailor cutters 3-00 to 8.00 per day Sewers i.ooto 2.00 per day Stevedores 3.00 to 3.50 per day Stevedore — helpers 2.00 to 2.25 per day Cigarmakers i.ooto 25.00 per 1,000 On Railroads. Conductors $75.00 to$i25.ooper month Engineers 75-00 to 130.00 per month Brakemen 1.25 to 1.50 per day Firemen 1-35 to 1.50 per day Track walkers i.oo per day Station agents 40.00 to 100.00 per month Telegraph operators 50.00 to 100,00 per month Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 121 Mechanics. Carpenters $1.2510 $2.50 per day Apprentices 60 to i.oo per day Plumbers 2.00 to 2.50 per day Tinners 2.00 to 2.50 per day Painters 2.Q0 to 2.50 per day Plasterers 2.00 to 2.50 per day Masons 2.00 to 2.50 per day Machinists 2.00 to 3.50 per day Engineers in general 2.50 to 3.00 per day Blacksmiths 1.50 to 2.00 per day Molders 3.00 to 3.25 per day Note.— It must be understood that these wages arc on the basis of the Cuban-Spanish money, a table of which is given herewith. The value of the gold coins given is their exchange value; the value of the silver coins is their local, current value, or was before the increasing introduction of American silver. At present Cuban silver is not worth more than 60 cents on the dollar and there is a heavy premium on Ameri- can gold : Cuban Gold Coins. Ounce or doubloon (onza) $17.00 Half doubloon (media onza) 8.50 Moneda c 30 Quarter doubloon (doubloon) 4.25 Eighth doubloon (escudo) 2. 12^2 122" Our New Possessions. Cuban Silver Coins. Peso (dollar). ..„ $i.oo Medio peso (half dollar) 50 Dos pesatas 40 Pesata (franc) 20 Real (dime) 10 As to GOVERNMENT and LAWS. Under the Spanish rule Cuba had representation in the Cortes, sending three Senators from the Province of Havana, two from each of the other five provinces, one from the Archbishopric of Santiago, one from the University of Havana and one from the Society of the Friends of the Country. Thirty deputies w^ere sent to the House of Deputies, but as all the Senators v^^ere Pro-Spanish and twenty-six of the deputies elected in 1896 were natives of Spain, the Cubans really had no representation. The supreme power in the island was the Captain- General, appointed by the Crown for three or five years, who was allowed a standing army of 13,000, who was Governor-General and the real head of the civil, ecclesiastical, military and naval organizations of the island. He had a council of administration of thirty members, fifteen appointed by the Crown and fifteen elected by the provinces, but the elections were so controlled as to give the Spanish Government a majority of 25 to 5. To make matters still safer, the Captain-General might suspend from one to fourteen Cuba and Adjacent Istes. 1^3 councillors at will or all, with the consent of a peculiar body called the Council of Authorities, com- posed of the Archbishop of Santiago, Bishop of Havana, the commanding officers of the army and navy, the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of Ha- vana, the Attorney-General, the head of the Depart- ment of Finance and the director of the local ad- ministration. This Council of Authorities held no regular sessions, but was called together as occasion might require, and its resolutions were put into effect by the Captain-General or not as he saw fit. Each province had a governor, appointed by the Crown, but directly responsible to the Captain-Gen- eral, and an elective assembly whose speaker was ap- pointed by the Captain-General. The Provincial Governor might, however, preside and vote or pro- rogue the Assembly and report to the Captain-Gen- eral, while the latter might suspend any of the pro- vincial assemblies at will. Each Provincial Gover- nor had a cabinet of five members, but as a matter of fact and despite their high sounding titles, the Pro- vincial Government, Governor and all, were little more than our county boards. So, too, the city governments, formed on the same general plan as the provincial, while they included an elected Board of Aldermen, with a mayor elected from their number, the Captain-General might put in his own mayor and override the ordinances at will. In the judicial system of Cuba, too, the Captain- General was supreme. It included two superior courts (audiencias), one sitting at Puerto Principe for the two eastern provinces, and the other at Ha- vana for the four western provinces. Inferior to these was a network of judicial districts and local 124 Our New Possessions. magistracies. How unimportant and unauthorita- tive the whole judicial system was may be gathered from the fact that under the decree of June g, 1878, the Captain-General had authority to overrule any de- cision of any court, and, further than that, to suspend any law or order issued by the Madrid Government. In a word, the Captain-General was for the time being the Czar of Cuba. The present government of Cuba is that of a mili- tary occupation by the United States, with Major- General Brooke as the Governor General. As a first experiment in Cuban autonomy the City of Havana has been placed in charge of the following civil and municipal officers : Frederico Mora, Civil Governor ; Perfecto Lacoste, Mayor; Major-General Menocal, Chief of Police, and General De Cardenas, First As- sistant. General Ludlow, however, remains Military Governor of Havana and General Chaffee has charge of the general policing of the island. The civil gov- ernment of Havana includes also five assistant may- ors and twenty-four city councillors. The city has been divided into twelve police precincts and six in- spection precincts, with a force of 1,000 police. There is also an active street cleaning department. Colonel Edgar Dudley, as Judge Advocate, has been charged with reorganizing the courts. He will administer, under the existing laws, as much as pos- sible, doing his best to correct gross abuses. Neither habeas corpus or trial by jury was in force under the Spanish laws and the people are not ready for either. All the old Spanish laws have been trans- lated into English. The Supreme Court of the island is the Audiencia, though it is really an Appellate Court. Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 125 One of the peculiar legal institutions of Cuba is the notaries, who really exercise the functions of referees and Masters in Chancery. All of the affairs of the island, which formerly were under the direction of the secretary to the Gov- ernor-General, are now directed by five secretaries, who constitute General Brooke's cabinet. The Civil Governors of provinces still exercise much the same powers as under Spain, but the power of the municipalities will be extended, the care of charities and public instruction being entrusted to them. Colonel Tasker H. Bliss has been made chief of the Cuban customs. As to INSTITUTIONS. In the Matter of Education. While the system of education in Cuba under the Spanish rule was lax and ill administered, it was not in such actual chaos as has been popularly supposed. The system being under the direction of the Governor General and director of the University of Havana, and both being natives of Spain and appointed by the Crown, it follows that little real interest was shown in the educational welfare of the native Cubans. As in the case of other departments, the Spanish school statistics are incomplete and unreliable. The following table, compiled with much trouble from the records of 1897, the latest available year, gives a 126 Oitr New Possessions. fair idea of the educational status of Cuba at that time: Provinces. Pinar del Eio Havana Matanzas Santa Clara Puei'to Principe Santiago Totals CO en c5 d m 6C 1 o fl CO 145 CO > 'r-t 46 1120 CO 144 O 195 3565 5 350-1 3()4 965 216 14724 585 8 536 116 1040 150 5327 269 1 345 104 2090 217 6917 322 1 144 37 345 40 1542 78 1 255 85 6031 86 12 4929 667 5560 852 38106 1531 t3 g Pi P eC j3 m ^ 4830 19193 6903 9352 2031 6286 48595 Education in Santiago has been under the worst conditions of the island. The girls have been taught little more than embroidery and etiquette, and some time ago an edict was issued forbidding the education of children of Cuban parents in the United States, lest they should imbibe liberal ideas. Note. — The ratio of children attending the public school was one to forty-five, while the approximate ratio in the United States was one to 5. The amount estimated for educational purposes, according to the last budget, was $137,760, but no part of this was in aid of the public school. Education was made compulsory by law in 1880, but that again is an instance of the difference be- tween law and fact, the law being nugatory when there is not the disposition or ability to provide school houses and teachers. Another drawback to the progress of education has been that the course of instruction in all schools was closely allied to reli- gion. Grammar and the credo went hand in l^and. Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 127 The fact is, too, that Cubans are little given to study Havana has not only its public schools, but the tTlLnL7> 1 ''"''"°" ^"^ ••-compl.shments" are at ended to by its university, institute, seminary severa theological and normal schools and an Acal: emy of pamtmg and sculpture. The Royal University of Havana has five depart- ments, viz., philosophy and letters, medicine, phar- tute m each of the six provinces empowered to cen- ter the degree of bachelor or licentiate Outside of Havana there are many really excellent educational establishments. At Manzanillo for ex- .fchoni . r' '"° P"™'" ''^°°^'- ^'Sht municipal s hools, two for colored children; at Nuevitas there are four public city schools, two for each sex; in the Province of Pinar del Rio there are forty-six private schools, 144 public school and one institute of art while even at old Puerto Principe, where there is no hotel, there are good public schools. The City of Matanzas boasts of first and second class colleges institutes of science, art and literature. In the Matter of Churches. Up to the successful close of Cuba's last war of in- dependence the Roman Catholic was the only religion or Protestant place of worship on the island, but in ht month the M. E. Church (colored) established the first Protestant place of worship in Cuba and now that the restrictions on religion' have been re' 128 Our New Possessions, moved, other denominations are at work on the estab lishment of branches of their respective churches. Catholicism was supported by the general revenues of the island, all items of expense having been deter- mined at Madrid. The amount estimated in the last Cuban budget was $385,588. The principal churches are referred to in the de- scriptions of the cities in which they are to be found. In the Matter of Theatres. The Cubans are essentially a pleasure and amuse- ment loving people, and it must be a very small and poor town indeed that does not possess a theatre." Havana has several, the principal being El Tacon, which rivals La Scala Aronson. Matanzas has its Esteban Theatre. There is a good one at Pinar del Rio, two at Sagua la Grande, two at Cardenas, a number at Santiago, one at Guantanamo and one at Puerto Principe. In the Matter of Newspapers. The common language of the country being Span- ish, all the newspapers have been printed in that lan- guage. Half English editions are now printed by many journals and one or two American papers have been started. Cuba and Adjacent Isles. I29 As to CITIES. Havana was founded in 1519; destroyed by French buccaneers in 1538, but soon restored by Hernando de Soto. It was repeatedly plundered by pirates from 1551 to 1555. It was captured by the Eng- lish under Admiral Pococke and the Duke of Albe- marle, August 14, 1762, after a two months' siege, but was restored to the Spaniards February 10, 1763, by the Treaty of Paris. From April 22 to August 12, 1898, it was blockaded by the American fleet and was formally delivered over to the United States January I, 1899. Its civil control was given into the hands of the Cubans, under American military protection, in February, 1899. Havana is the great centre of the island's social, commercial and military importance, and is actually more of a Spanish than a Cuban city. While in reality not so divided, the city is common- ly recognized as being in two parts : the intramural, or old town, lying between the bay and site of the an- cient walls, and the extramural, or new town, lying beyond the walls. In the old town the streets are very narrow, gener- ally about 22 feet wide, with sidewalks barely wide enough for two pedestrians to pass. In the new town the streets are generally about 32 feet wide. The principal business streets are O'Reilly, Obispo and Obrabia. The prevailing style of architecture is that of the south of Spain, thick walls of gaily painted rubble being the prevailing material of construction. Most of the houses in the old town are of one story, with crude means of ventilation and little or no provision 130 Our New Possessions. of a sanitary nature. In the extramural town the houses are of a much more modern style. The principal public edifices are the Cathedral, erected in 1724; the churches of Santa Catalina and San Juan, dating from the sixteenth century ; the Governor's Palace, a yellow two-story edifice, with a handsome colonade ; the University, and El Tacon, a theatre built in 1838, during the incumbency of Cap- tain-General Tacon, seating about 3,000. Few cities in the world have a larger number of parks than Havana, the principal one of the ten which adorn it being the Plaza de Armas, comprising four gardens, with palm bordered walks ; La Alameda de Paula, bordering the bay ; the Campa de Marte, re- markable for its four handsome gates ; El Pasco de Taco, with its magnificent drive, and El Prado, the general promenade. Havana has three lines of water supply, the Zanga, little more than an unprotected drain ; the Aqueduct of Ferdinand VH., with a main of only 18 inches diameter, and that of Isabel II., or of the Vento, which, when completed, will furnish an ample supply of pure water. At this date Havana has nothing approaching a good system of sewerage. The greater part of the drainage empties into the sea or harbor, and as there is little ebb and flow of tide, the harbor water is filthy and ill smelling. The defences of Havana are numerous and exten- sive, the most important and picturesque being El Morro, built in 1589-1597. Most of the present forti- fications were originated by the Count of Santa Clara, in whose honor the great Battery has been named. There are now fifteen fortifications in and about the Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 131 city, besides the uncompleted work, Las Animas, and the old sea wall bastions. Between the Morro and Cabafia are many secret passages. At the time of the war Havana had forty-three new guns, with an unknown number of old ones. The city is surrounded by a hilly region covered with grass, crops and garden produce, well watered by streams and free from marsh, except about the bay itself. There is but little timber, and isolated trees, chiefly the royal palm and ceiba, are common. The face of the country is broken naturally by hills and wooded ravines and artificially by stone walls, hedges of cactus, wire fences, single houses and hamlets or towns. There are few streams of large size. Many of the suburbs are quite pretty and contain a number of comfortable and well ordered villas, set in lovely gardens. Besides the railroads and ferries, treated of else- where, four main roads (calzadas) lead to and from Havana, turnpikes of a few miles long, which soon dwindle off into dirt roads or more or less impassable trails. Matanzas is the second commercial city on the isl- and and vies with Havana in wealth and culture. It has scientific, art and literary organizations, three churches, the Esteban Theatre, the Spanish Casino, custom house, hospital, jail, arena, post-office, col- leges, promenades (paseos), a telegraph station, gov- ernor's palace and hospitals. The wonderful Bellamar Caves lie three and a half miles east of Matanzas. Matanzas was settled in 1693. It is separated by 132 Our New Possessions. two small rivers, the San Juan and the Yumuri, into three districts, the central, or Matanzas proper, lying between the streams ; the Pueblo Nuevo, south of the San Juan, and Versalles, north of the Yumuri. Ver- salles is the healthiest of the three, because it is built on a bluff and from being nearest the open sea. Con- necting Matanzas with Versalles is a fine bridge over the Yumuri, which cost $250,000. Pueblo Nuevo is generally low and poorly drained. Matanzas and Versalles have good natural drainage. The streets are generally about thirty feet wide, few of them paved, but generally in good condition owing to their being close to the natural limestone rock. Most of the houses are built of this stone, and as a rule are better ventilated than those of Havana. The city has the reputation of having long annually suffered from yellow fever, but it is peculiarly open to improvement from good sanitary measures. Santiago is the most southern place of note on the island, being 682 miles from Havana. It is the resi- dence of an Archbishop, has many notable buildings, including the Cathedral, erected in 1522, the city hav- ing been founded by Velazquez eight years previous. Santiago is built upon a steep slope, the public square, or Campo de Marte, being 160 feet above the sea. As it is located on the inland pocket of a small harbor, however, the climate is always hot, while in July and August the heat is suffocating. It has many small local railroads and is the headquarters for three large mining plants, owned by United States citizens — the Juragua, the Spanish-American and the Sigua concerns, together representing an investment of about $8,000,000. Santiago has a number of tobacco Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 133 factories and exports large amounts of sugar, iron ore, manganese, mahogany, cedar, hides and wax. CiENFUEGOs (hundred fires) was founded in 1819, destroyed by a hurricane and rebuilt in 1825. Com- mercially it is the most important port of entry on the southern coast. More than one-third of the town was formerly a mangrove swamp, but the town site slopes from the water front, which is three feet above the sea, to an elevation of about seventy-five feet. The drainage is consequently good. The streets are 40 feet wide, macadamized, but the houses are small, mostly of wood and low. The town boasts of the Terry Theatre, quite an imposing edifice. There is a water works, but it does not yet supply water, one- third of the population having cisterns and selling water to the other two-thirds. Cienfuegos is subject to fierce northers, during which the temperature falls quite low, frost appearing on the high peaks of the San Juan mountains, which surround the bay. From December i until May the weather is quite pleasant, being dry and with a tem- perature that ranges from 60 to 78 degrees during the day and that falls several degrees during the night. For the rest of the year the temperature ranges from 75 to 93 degrees, with frequent and heavy rains and wind storms. Then yellow fever becomes epidemic. Puerto Principe. — Though called the principal port, Puerto Principe is really the most inland city on the island, being thirty-four miles from the northern and forty-five miles from the southern coast. Its southern port of entry is Santa Cruz and its northern port Nuevitas. With the latter place it is connected 134 ^"^ Neiv Possessions. by railroad, but between it and Santa Cruz there is- only a bad wagon road. The original Puerto Principe was at Nuevitas, hav- ing been founded there by Velazquez in 1515, but was moved in the following year to its present site, a broad, sandy savannah at a considerable elevation. It is the quaintest and most antiquated town in Cuba, a relic of the Middle Ages, with narrow, rambling streets and mediaeval houses of stone and hoary churches. Through it runs a river and around it stretches out the best grazing country of the island. No such thing as a hotel is known. Santa Clara, also known as Villa Clara, was founded in 1664. It is situated at a considerable ele- vation and it is blessed with such a dry air and soil that it ought to be one of the healthiest places in Cuba. But malarial fevers and dysentery are en- demic. It has broad streets, is well built, has an elec- tric light plant, a theatre, telegraph station and rail- road communication with Havana, being the eastern terminus of the main trunk railroad. There is a coal oil well a mile and a quarter from the city, which should yield abundantly ; while in its vicinity are an asphalt mine, from which 10,000 tons are taken an- nually, and mines of graphite, gold, plumbago and copper. The tobacco of the neighborhood is among the best of the island. GuANAEACOA was fouudcd in 1555. It is practically a suburb of Havana, and, being built on a hill, 130 to 160 feet high, is wind swept and has good drainage. But its streets are ill kept and the houses dirty. It has an abundance of good drinking water, a theatre, Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 135 telegraph station and communication with Havana by rail and ferry. Cardenas was settled in 1828, and, owing to the large number of Americans engaged in business there, is one of the most flourishing cities on the island. It has many fine buildings, two theatres, banks, fac- tories, etc., and is lighted with electricity and gas. The sanitary conditions are still bad, owing to the site of the town having been a mangrove swamp. Sancti Spiritus, like Trinidad, was founded by Diego Velazquez in 1514. It has two ports— Zaza, situated on the River Zaza, and Las Tunas, a seaport on the coast— a railroad running between the three points, about twenty-five miles in length. The town itself is situated on the River Yayabo, which empties into the Zaza. Its streets are narrow and its climate is not healthful on account of the dampness of the soil. Sagua La Grande was founded in 1817. It is in daily communication by rail with Santa Clara, Cien- fuegos and Havana and with its port of Isabela de Sagua (La Boca), ten miles distant. It has wide streets, machine shops, lumber yards, a town hall, private schools, ten municipal schools, clubs, two theatres, a hospital, a magnificent church, a large sugar export trade and is generally an unusually clean and healthy town. Trinidad is an ancient city, having been founded by Velazquez in 15 14. It lies on the slope of a remark- able saddle-shaped mountain, three miles from the 136 Our Nezv Possessions. seashore, has a mean altitude of 220 feet, is open to the breezes of the sea and mountain and is reported to be the most healthful town upon the island. The Mountain Vijia, upon which it is situated, rises to a height of goo feet. One peculiarity of its position is, that while its streets are narrow and tortuous, they are at such a pitch that the heavier it rains the cleaner they become. It has an important commerce and two ports — the harbor of Casilda, three miles distant, and the River Guaurabo, which is navigable to within a mile of the city. There is a railroad to Casilda, which a steamer line touches. Caibarien is a modern town, having been founded in 1822. It is a port, with considerable coasting trade, is situated at the mouth of the Caibarien river, and, like so many other Cuban ports, has been built on the site of a mangrove swamp. Notwithstanding its low level, it is a healthy place, yellow fever appear- ing but rarely. It is connected by railroad with San Andres and with Cardenas by a steamship line. It has a large sugar export business, notwithstanding the shallowness of its roadstead ; has many large sugar warehouses, churches, brick houses, with tile roofs, and a general air of business bustle. Manzanillo. — Founded in 1784, Manzanillo is the seaport of Bayamo and Jigunae. It has hospitals, colleges, weekly papers, eight sugar mills, telephone and telegraph service, and is the centre of the lumber trade of the island. It lies on flat ground, is laid out in wide rectangular streets and needs a good water system. Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 137 As to GENERAL DESCRIPTION. The island is traversed by mountain chains whose highest elevations are in the extreme eastern and western provinces. Most of the surface consists of undulating and well-watered plains, covered with luxuriant forests and plantations. The coast is alter- nately of low, marshy stretches and abrupt cliffs. It has 250 rivers, most of them, however, unnavigable except in the rainy season. No other island of its size in the world has so many desirable harbors. There are 220 of them, of which 37 on the north and 13 on the south are accessible to ocean-going vessels. A description by provinces follows : Province of Pinar del Rio. The northern portions of the Province of Pinar del Rio are mountainous, the southern generally low and marshy. The principal mountain ridge is that of the Cordillera de los Organos, which rises to the Pan de Guajaibon, 2,000 feet high. The interior is what may be called a topographical contradiction, for while it contains moor wastes, salty marshes and boggy pools, it also contains "the Vuelta Abajo," the garden spot and the most fertile and prosperous section of the island. The rivers of Pinar del Rio are not long, but in the wet season are of considerable volume. Only a few of them are navigable. The outline of the coast is generally high and bold. Portions of it, however, are sheltered by archipela- goes, or screened by shoals, reefs or islands, making 138 Our Neiv Possessions. navigation difficult. Where the coast is high there are fine harbors. Where it is low a landing is practically impossible. The Province of Havana. * Havana is the smallest but the most thickly popu- lated province of the island. It yields all the various products of the island, of forestry, mineral and agri- cultural. This province is the principal manufactur- ing centre of the island, containing as it does numer- ous large factories for the manufacture of tobacco, cement, ropes, confectioneries and jellies. Distribut- ed through the province are foundries, tanneries, saw mills and distilleries. The staple manufacture is to- bacco. There are three lakes in the southwestern part of the province — Caimito, Guanamen and Herrera — of considerable size and differing from the general char- acteristics of the swamp lakes of the southern coast, which are but torrid quagmires. Off and along the coast of this province lie many archipelagoes, made up of sand cays and islets, trav- ersed by networks of channels. The principal archi- pelago is that of Los Canarreos, to the south, in the Gulf of Matamano, which separates the province from the Isle of Pines. There are few mountains of importance in this province, the northern part being hilly and the south- ern sloping gradually to the low coast line. Havana is well watered by a number of small rivers and streams, none of them, however, being of com- mercial importance. Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 139 The most important part of the coast line is that which Hes around and about the Bay of Havana. This bay makes one of the finest harbors in the world, easy of access, spacious enough to contain 1,000 vessels, deep enough to allow them to come up to the wharves, and, except in the case of hurricanes, well protected on all sides. Within, the bay breaks up into three dis- tinct arms, named respectively Regla, Guanabacoa and Atares. Province of Matanzas. The Province of Matanzas is shaped like a wedge, the height of land being along the northern shore and the rivers flowing southward to valleys and marshes, the coast line of the province extending only along its northern boundary. The highlands on the northern coast rise to the Pan de Matanzas, 1,300 feet high. In the extreme north- west is the rocky range of the Sierra de Camarones. In the central portion lies the great plain extending from Cardenas to Holguin, broken by low mountains, small lakes and river courses. On the southern coast, on the north bank of the River Hatiguanico, is the greater half of an immense swamp, called Gran Cienaga Occidental de Zapata. This swamp played a conspicuous part in the late Cuban war. The insurrectionists, knowing its intrica- cies, carried their wounded there. The moment they touched the borders of this swamp they were in safety. The northern part of Matanzas is in the most fer- tile and productive zone of the island and is noted for 140 Our New Possessions. its picturesque landscapes. It is also the richest and most advanced province of the island. Its industries are the raising of sugar and tobacco and distilling liquor, the mining of copper, some gold and silver, rock salt and pit coal. It has cattle farms and lime kilns, but its most important industry is the raising of sugar. Its commerce is extensive and favored by the har- bors, rivers and railways. The City of Matanzas, the capital of the province, is the second commercial city in the island. Province of Santa Clara. The Province of Santa Clara stands next to that of Matanzas as one of the richest as w^ell as one of the best settled parts of the island. Its rich soil yields in abundance all the special products of the Antilles, and the fruits of the temperate zone thrive on the elevated slopes of its mountain ranges. It is rich, too, in min- erals. Its chief industries in common with the other prov- inces are the raising of sugar and tobacco and the cul- tivation of fruits. Gold is extracted from the sandy shores of the Rio Arimao. Silver, copper and asphalt are mined. Cattle are raised. Its commerce consists in the importation and expor- tation of the above mentioned products. This com- merce is carried on by means of its fine ports on both the northern and southern coasts. The general aspect of the interior of this province is gently undulating, like that of England. Through it runs the Santa Clara range of mountains, the domi- Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 141 nating peak of which is El Pico del Potrillo, which has an altitude of 3,000 feet. Outside of the imme- diate neighborhood of this mountainous region, how- ever, its general topographical features are made up of a few ranges, interspersed with an infinite number of lomas (hills), nestling down between which are innumerable small lakes and chains of lakes. The province is well watered, its rivers including the Sagua la Grande, whifh flows through the north central part of the province and which is the largest river of the entire north coast of the island, being ninety miles in length and navigable for twenty miles ; the Jatibonico del Sur, navigable for six or eight miles, and the Zaza, some ninety miles in length. The whole northern coast of Santa Clara is one im- mense archipelago, filled with cays and shoals, while off the southern coast are many other groups of sand and coral islands. Province of Puerto Principe. Puerto Principe is the most extensive and least populated of all the provinces. Its area is 11,428 square miles and its population but 67,789. Plantations of sugar and tobacco of some magni- tude occupy the fertile country surrounding the quaint old capital of Puerto Principe ; fine pasturage is af- forded the numerous flocks and herds for which this province was formerly noted, but which have been greatly decimated as results of the late war. A lim- ited amount of vegetables is cultivated and consider- able fruit is grown. The most extensive forests of the island are here 14^ Our Nezv Possessions. located. The preserving of fruit, the mining of cop- per and other metals and of marble, etc., the cutting of wood for building purposes, and cattle raising are the chief industries. The commerce of the province consists mainly in the exportation of these articles and of meat and the importation of foreign com- estibles and manufactured goods, carried on from the ports of Nuevitas, Moron, Guanajay and Santa Cruz del Sur. Fishing is good on the coasts. There are few mountain ranges in Puerto Principe, only detached groups appearing here and there, the ranges gradually dipping into the plains. The soil of the interior is rich, the coasts low and marshy and broken by lagoons, reefs and shoals. There are but two lakes of importance in the province, but it is peculiarly rich in rivers, both with a north- ward and southward course. Province of Santiago de Cuba, The Province of Santiago de Cuba occupies the ex- treme eastern end of the island, and, because of its remoteness from the capital and of its extremely broken and precipitous character, is less known than any of the other political divisions. Numerous cas- cades and cataracts are found in the interior and along the high coasts. The mountains are inter- spersed with tracts of great fertility. Shoals, sand banks, reefs, cays and peninsulas, creeks and marshes are all constituents of the topography and geography of Santiago de Cuba. In Santiago are situated the highest mountains and largest rivers of the island. Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 143 The principal rivers of the province are the Cauto, which flows twelve miles north of Manzanillo and is navigable for sixty miles, the Moa and the Gibara. From Cape Maisi to Cape Cruz a mountain chain passes close to the seacoast, then turning abruptly west it passes along the middle of the island, breaking away now and then to the north or to the south, cre- ating an intricate system of verdure-clad elevations cut into sharp ridges. The Sierra Maestra, the best defined mountain chain on the island, rises in a suc- cession of terraces, soon attaining an altitude of 5,140 feet; an increase of elevation follows till the Blue Peak (Turquino) of 8,320 feet is reached. From Turquino the mountain continues under the name of Sierra de Cobre. Here are the noted copper mines of the province. In the Cobre range, resting on a pyra- midal peak 3,300 feet high, is the "Gran Piedra," a huge boulder 150 feet in length and 45 feet wide. The province is rich in vegetation, and in it are found all the productions of the island. The exploit- mg of mines, the manufacture of sugar, tobacco, co- coanut oil, chocolate, soap, ice, petroleum and liquors, cattle raising and the exploitation of forests are among its multifarious industries. Trade is carried on chiefly from the port of Santi- ago, which is one of the best in the world. As to SCENIC INTEREST. To the lover of natural beauties, the explorer and the archaeologist Cuba offers a wonderful field of in- terest. Many of the island's varied attractions have 144 Our New Possessions. been referred to in the chapters given to Cities and General Description and the balance of the more re- markable is catalogued as follows : Near Candelaria are to be found some remarkable mineral springs and a cataract 98 feet high on the Manantiales. Three and a half miles east of Matanzas are the celebrated Bellamar Caves, whose crystals are the ad- miration of all strangers. At Vinales, sixteen miles from Pinar del Rio, are curative mineral baths. Twenty miles southwest of Cardenas are the excel- lent hot sulphur springs of San Miguel de los Bafios. At Jiguani, a little town twenty-one miles from Bayamo, is to be seen a remarkable example of an ancient castle, said to have the strongest interior work of any fort in Cuba. The Cubitas range is noted for its great caves, these caverns having been the seat of the Insurgent Gov- ernment in 1896. Important cascades are found on the Hanabanilla, some of them being 430 feet high. Twenty miles southwest of Havana is Lake Arigua- nabo, with a surface of about six miles, and abound- ing in fish. Madruga is a little watering place, with a season from March to October, during which time several hotels are open. It has good baths, sulphur springs and is a pleasant, healthy place, fifty-two miles from Havana. All along the coasts where there are beaches, shells and seaweed are to be found, beautiful and entirely peculiar to these coasts, while the waters display hues lovely beyond the most fanciful imagination. Cuba and Adjacent Isles. ;'14S Cuba is also remarkable for its many streams which apparently sink into the earth, reappearing under a succession of natural bridges. Among these disap- pearing stream.s is the San Antonio. It disappears beneath a large, spreading ceiba in San Antonio dc los Banos. Near Baracoa is Maisi Cave, noted for its relics of a primitive age. All over the island are scattered individual lakes and chains of lakes. There are square leagues of un- explored forests and chains of untrodden mountains. As to Its HISTORY. Cuba was discovered October 28, 1492, by Christo- pher Columbus and was called in succession Juana, Fernandina and Ave Maria ; its present name being that given it by the natives. The first settlement was made at Santiago, 15 14. Insurrections have been almost perpetual since the latter part of the eighteenth century. The most im- portant have been these : That of 1827-29, planned by Cuban refugees in Mexico and the United States and known as the "Black Eagles;" that of 1844, really a revolt of the slaves ; that of 1854, ended by the be- trayal of the leader ; that of 1868-78, known as the Ten Years' War, and that of 1894-98, which resulted in independence. Our active interest in the affairs of Cuba dates back to 1848, when President Polk made a proposition to buy the island for $100,000,000. In 1873, that is dur- 146 Our Neiv Possessions. ing the Ten Years* War, the American ship Vir- ginius was captured by the Spaniards, her cargo con- fiscated and many of her passengers executed as revo- lutionists. This act nearly brought on war between Spain and the United States. On February 15, 1898, the United States battleship Maine was blown up in Havana harbor. By act of Congress, April 25, 1898, it was declared that war had existed between the United States and Spain since April 21. On August 12 Spain asked for terms of peace. Santiago was oc- cupied by the United States forces on July 17, 1898; Havana and the balance of the island January i, 1899, the Treaty of Peace having been signed in Paris De- cember 10, 1898. THE ISLE OF PINES. Cuba, as has been said, is surrounded by clusters of islets, a catalogue of which would fill pages. The principal of these is the Isle of Pines, lying in the Antilles Sea, sixty miles from Batabano, from which place a steamer now runs once or twice a week. Communication with the main island will, however, soon be increased as its extreme salubrity and many other natural advantages have already attracted the attention of American investors. The Chicago Isle of Pines Colony, a co-operative agricultural community, has been formed, with the object of raising fruits and early vegetables for north- ern markets. General Fitzhugh Lee has found it a comfortable retiring spot and certain Washington in- Cuba and Adjacent Isles. 147 vestors contemplate converting the isle into a pleasure resort. The island is forty-five miles from east to west and thirty-three miles from north to south. Generally speaking, the island is high and rolling, with low coasts, except a portion of the north coast, where a range of hills comes down to the sea. There are mountains which are over 1,500 feet above the sea level. To the west and south is a long sweep of low coast line, indented here and there by the mouth of a river ; of these La Nueva is the best river entrance of the island. The other important rivers are Las Nue- vas, Casas and Santa Fe, all navigable. The Cienaga or swamp divides the island into two unequal parts. It is said to be impassable for horses, but the natives pass through it, at times wading to their armpits in water. At one place there is a cause- way, by means of which it is possible to cross on dry land. The Cienaga is infested with alligators; large quantities of fish and turtle are caught in the differ- ent bays. There are no venomous insects or reptiles on the island. Nueva Gerona is the largest town on the island and the capital of the place. It was the residence of the Governor and garrison. It is a small town of 400 to 500 people, built on the Casas river. The houses arc chiefly of stone or rubble, common in Cuba, tlie streets wide and straight. In general the soil of the island is poor, sandy and in places gritty, but rich spots are found in the stream bottoms, and upon these corn, cane and vegetables are raised. Probably potatoes would thrive here. Some fruits are grown, which are smaller though of richer flavor than those of Cuba, the oranges being said to 148 Our New Possessions. be the best in the world. Bananas are cultivated and many fruits are found growing wild, such as guava, caimito, papaya and such mangoes as it would be hard to find elsewhere in the world, whole groves of them, making a mountain of color impossible to de- scribe. The island has many varieties of wood, such as ma- hogany, cedar and hard woods, but the chief growth is the pine. Pines everywhere, but of a heavy kind, full of resin, and even less valuable than the yellow pine of the south. In addition to its woods, the re- sources of the island are its marble quarries and mineral springs. The medical value of the mineral springs near Santa Fe is acknowledged, and some say that they are the best in the world for all troubles of the stomach. As to health, the island has a high reputation. The inhabitants say that yellow fever is unknown, and the records of the military hospital show no exemption comparable to this at any other place in Cuba. Strangers who come here do not have to pass through the term of acclimatization usual in Cuba. The at- mosphere seems dryer and more bracing than that of Cuba, and it also seems cooler. People here have a good appetite, and altogether it is said there is not a more healthful spot in this quarter of the globe than the Isle of Pines. J^ PORTO RICO AND ADJACENT ISLES. As to AREA. The Island of Porto (Puerto) Rico is from 35 to 43 miles broad and from 95 to 108 miles long. Its area is 3,668 square miles. For comparison: Connecticut 4,990 square miles Delaware and Rhode Island 3,370 " " Jamaica 4,424 " « Compared with Cuba, Porto Rico is geographically clean cut, its shores not being fringed with such chains of keys and islets. It has, however, a number of tributary islands, all of which were acquired by the United States at the time it took possession of Porto Rico. Of these islands the principal are Vie- que, Culebra, Mona, Ratones, Roncador and Moneta. A fuller reference to Vieque will be found at the end of this chapter. 150 Our New Possessions, As to POPULATION. (Census of 1887.) Total population 813,937 Whites o 485,860 Mulattoes 263,567 Negroes 64,510 Porto Rico has not, however, been subjected to the decimating wars which Cuba has had to endure. Its population has had a natural increase and is esti- mated to-day at nearly 1,000,000. Of these fully 400,- 000 have a greater or less admixture of negro or In- dian blood. For comparison: (Census 1890.) Population. Connecticut , 746,258 Delaware and Rhode Island 513,999 It will be seen from these figures that Porto Rico is quite thickly peopled. The estimated present population of Porto Rico's principal cities and towns is as follows: San Juan 30,000 Mayaguez » . 20,000 Ponce 15,000 (Including Playa) 20,000 Fajardo o 8,779 Arecibo 7,000 Porto Rico and Adjacent Isles. 151 Aguadilla 5,000 Humaco 4,000 Naguabo 2,000 Ucareo 1,500 Arroyo , 1,200 As to CLIMATE. On account of its being out of the direct sweep of the Gulf Stream, of not being hedged about by neigh- boring lands as is Cuba, and of being clearly exposed to the swift currents of fresh air blowing from the Atlantic into the hot Caribbean Sea, Porto Rico en- joys the best climate of the West Indies. While tropical, the weather is not so humid and depressing as is that of Cuba. The towns of the elevated in- terior enjoy a delightful climate and even the sea- ports are not uncomfortable. The climate of San Juan is warm but agreeable for three months of the year, when trade winds blow strong and fresh. At Ponce, because of the sea breezes during the day and the land breezes at night, the weather is never oppressive. The climate of Mayaguez is excellent, the tempera- ture never rising above 90 degrees. Aguadilla's weather is hot but healthy and that of Fajardo is quite temperate. Strangers visiting Porto Rico are, of course, sub- ject to the discomforts of acclimatization, but the process is not nearly so debilitating and dangerous 152 Our New Possessions. as it is in Cuba. Yellow fever is endemic to Porto Rico, as it is to all of the islands of the West Indian archipelago, but it is not the ever present foe that has to be grappled with by every visitor. Porto Rico is, however, a danger spot to those afflicted by or subject to pulmonary complaints, while, on ac- count of the sudden changes of temperature, even the native is given to colds and catarrhs. February and March are the dryest months. Heavy rains begin in May, a month earlier than in Cuba, and continue, with a slight weakening in June and October, until the end of the year. No official meteorological records have been kept in Porto Rico, but Captain Arthur C. Hansard, man- ager of the Hacienda Perla, Province of Numacao, furnishes the following observations for 1898 which may be considered typical of the island : In the Matter of Temperature. Month. Average, Highest. Lowest. January 74 86 61 February 72 85 61 March 74 85 64 April 75 87 65 May o . . 78 95 69 June 79 92 70 July o . . 77 89 66 August. 79 92 67 September 79 93 70 October 79 93 70 November 76 86 65 December 74 85 65 Annual 76 95 6j Porto Rico and Adjacent Isles. 153 Note — Concerning the maximum temperature, Captain Hansard remarks : "The highest, 95 degrees, during May, 1898, was phenomenal and occurred only on two days. In fact, I have only noted 92 de- grees on two other days and 93 degrees on one other day. In the Matter of Rainfall. Total No. of Record of Month. rainfall, rainy days, wettest day inches. inches. inches. January 8.17 26 6.20 February 2.90 14 0.83 March 4.38 17 1.37 April 7.35 16 2.80 May 16.98 21 4.13 June 6.87 18 3.49 July 1406 27 3.65 August 12.49 20 8.70 September 10.85 22 2.71 October 9.04 22 2 November 19.62 , 28 5.45 December 10.68 26 1.24 Annual 123.39 257 Note.— It will be observed that Captain Hansard's term, "dryest month," really means least wet month. The Hacienda Perla is at an elevation of some 200 feet and the range of temperature in the coast towns can safely be counted upon as being somewhat higher, A temperature of 117 degrees has, for in- 154 Our New Possessions, stance, been observed in San Juan. A fall of lo or 12 degrees at night is usual. As to DISTANCES. (Reckoned in statute miles to San Juan.) From New York 1,420 miles From Charleston, S. C 1,200 " From Key West, Fla 1,050 " From Havana •. 1,000 " As to COST and TIME in GETTING THERE. At present there is only one direct steamship line trading to and from Porto Rico, and, of course, all travel to Porto Rico must be conducted wholly by sea, unless one takes the very roundabout way of going to Cuba by rail and steamer and thence taking steamer. The New York and Porto Rico Steamship Com- pany has a fleet of three passenger and freight steam- ers and one exclusively freight steamer, which leave the Empire Stores, Brooklyn, near Fulton Ferry, three times a month, stopping alternately at San Juan and Ponce. The trip to San Juan takes five or six days ; that to Ponce seven or eight days. Porto Rico and Adjacent Isles. 155 In connection with these steamers is the small steamer Salacia, which makes trips around the island for the delivery of both freight and passengers. All these steamers carry United States mail. The passenger rate varies from $45 to $50 on the Arkadia and Winifred to from $50 to $60 on the St. Marcos. The St. Marcos also makes round trips of twenty- eight days, during which she discharges and loads cargo at San Juan, Arecibo, Aguadilla, Mayaguez, Ponce, Arroyo, Humacao, Vieque and Fajardo. Tickets for the round voyage, including board and berth, are from $130 to $160, while passengers re- maining ashore for any number of days are entitled to a rebate of $3 a day. The Red "D" Line steamers also call at Porto Rico now, en route for Venezuela, landing passengers and mail. These steamers leave New York every two weeks, the fare to Porto Rico being $60 to $70. The Quebec Steamship Company, plying between New York and the West Indies, also calls at Porto Rico. The Herrera Line of coasting steamers, which makes the tour of the Cuban ports, also calls at those of Porto Rico. As to MAIL and CABLE SERVICE. Mails are dispatched to Porto Rico by every steam- er that either sails to or touches at the island, clear- 156 Our New Possessions. ances being effected now every two or three days. The rate for letters is five cents per half ounce. Cable communication from New York can be had over three companies' lines, the United States and Hayti Telegraph and Cable Company, the Interna- tional Ocean Telegraph Company and the West In- dian Telegraph Company, the rate per word being the same over all three cables — $1.17 per word for commercial messages, 40 cents per word for press messages. Cables also run from San Juan to St. Thomas and Jamaica. On the island there are 470 miles of telegraph lines, connecting the capital with the principal ports west and south, and a system of postal delivery is well under way. San Juan, Ponce and Mayaguez have quite good telephone systems, there being already over 200 sta- tions at Ponce. As to TRADE According to a general Treasury statement, the values of the foreign trade of Porto Rico in 1896 were as follows : Imports $18,945,793 Exports 17,295,535 Total $36,241,328 Porto Rico and Adjacent Isles. 157 Of this trade, that with Spain was valued at $ii,- 259,702; that with the United States at $1,988,888. The latest available detailed returns of Porto Rico's commerce are those of the Estadistica General del Commercio for 1897, and they only give the trade of the island for 1895. According to this work, these are the figures of the Imports into Porto Rico. Value in Articles. U. S. Currency. Coal $119,403 Iron 224,206 Soap 238,525 Meat and lard 1,223,104 Jerked beef I33>6i6 Fish 1,591,418 Rice 2,180,004 Flour 982,222 Vegetables 192,918 Olive oil 327,801 Wine 305,656 Cheese 324,137 Other provisions 171,322 Tobacco (manufactured) 663,464 Other articles 7,477,260 Total imports $16,155,056 The countries from which Porto Rico took these imports, with values, are as follows : 158 Our New Possessions. Countries. Values. Spain $8,572,549 Cuba 526,730 United States 1,833,544 England 1,765,574 France 251,984 Germany 1,368,595 Italy 19,619 Holland 325,301 Denmark 26,565 British West Indies 1,709,117 Danish West Indies 600 French West Indies 55 Total imports $16,155,056 Exports from Porto Rico. Articles. Value. Coffee $8,789,788 Tobacco 646,556 Sugar 3,747,891 Honey 5i7,746 Other articles (largely molasses, cattle, timber and hides) 927,513 Total exports $14,629,494 The countries to which Porto Rico sent these ex- ports, with values, are as follows : Porto Rico and Adjacent tsles. 159 Countries. Values. Spain $4,164,964 Cuba 3,802,261 United States 1,506,512 England i, 144,555 France 1,376,087 Germany 1,181,396 Italy 589,045 Holland 3,240 Denmark 236,418 British West Indies 521,649 Danish West Indies 40,434 French West Indies 62,927 Total exports $14,629,494 Turning now to what Spain has lost and what the United States may gain, these figures show the trade of the United States with Porto Rico from 1891 to 1897 inclusive : Imports. Free. Dutiable. Total. I89I. .$1,856,955 $1,307,155 $3,164,110 1892. . 3,236,337 11,670 3,248,007 1893. ' 3,994,673 13,950 4,008,623 1894. • 3,126,895 8,739 3,135,634 1895. . 375,864 1,131,148 1,506,512 1896. 48,608 2,248,045 2,296,653 1897. . 101,711 2,079,313 2,181,024 i6o Our New Possessions. Exports. Domestic. Foreign. Total. I89I. .$2,112,334 $42,900 $2,155,234 1892. . 2,808,631 47,372 2,856,003 1893. . 2,502,788 7.819 2,510,607 1894. . 2,705,646 14,862 2,720,508 1895. . 1,820,203 13,341 1,833,544 1896. . 2,080,400 21,694 2,102,094 1897. . 1,964,850 24,038 1,988.888 The commerce of Spain with Porto Rico from 1891-1896 inclusive was : Imports from Porto Rico. 1891 $3,260,650 1892 4,428,891 1893 4,108,654 1894 4,164,964 1895 5,824,694 1896 5,423,760 Exports to Porto Rico. 1891 $3,305,243 1892 3,929,186 1893 4,653,023 1894 5,535,027 1895 8,572,549 1896 7,328,880 Porto Rico and Adjacent Isles. i6i The value of the total imports for 1895. It has been shown, was $16,155,056, as against $18,316,971 for 1896. The exports were valued at $14,629,494, against $17,295,535 in 1896. The principal increases in im- ports, as compared with the preceding year, were in meat, fish, olive oil and tobacco. Decreases were noted in flour, vegetables and wine. The exportation of coffee diminished and that of sugar and honey in- creased. In imports of coal, petroleum and wood the United States leads. Porcelain and earthenware, drugs and chemicals, paper and leather come mostly from Spain, although some paper is also imported from the United States. Galvanized iron roofing comes from England. Cotton and hemp, woolen goods and silks come from Spain, Germany and England. Great Britain and Germany furnish the machinery used in the island, with the exception of the items of boilers and scales. The principal articles exported to the United States are sugar and molasses. As to BUSINESS CHANCES and PRODUCTS. Following the American occupation, there has al- ready been effected a large change in the social and commercial conditions of Porto Rico, but much more remains to be done. The sm.allness of Porto Rico, as compared with Cuba, will naturally form a bar to the development of industries on so extended a scale as is possible on the larger island ; but it must not be 1 62 Our New Possessions. overlooked that between the populations of the two islands there is not much difference, and that while a large proportion of Cuba is unexplored and unavail- able, nearly the wliole of Porto Rico is known and can be turned to some agricultural or other industrial advantage. The island is rapidly taking on new life, and those business men who have looked the island over pro- nounce it rich and possessing golden prospects for the future. The three great industries of the island are the raising of tobacco, coffee and sugar, the values of the exports of these three articles being given under the head of "As to Trade." Owing to the troubled state of affairs in Cuba, prices of tobacco have increased enormously in Porto Rico. A large amount has been planted and the crop promises well. From the tables under the "Trade" heading also can be gathered the countries from which the island has derived its supplies. There is very little manufacturing done in Porto Rico. Across the bay from San Juan the Standard Oil Company has a small refinery and in the city there are small broom, soap, match and trunk fac- tories. At Mayaguez there are three manufactories of chocolate and several coffee drying houses, as there are also at Aguadilla. Practically all of the machinery used in Porto Rico has come from Europe, but the total amount has been small, the Porto Ricans clinging to the old-fash- ioned hand work wherever possible. On February 26 a model sugar plant was sent from New York to Porto Rico as an object lesson, and it is only a mat- ter of time and push for this country to supplant all Porto Rico and Adjacent Isles. 163 of the antiquated affairs with Yankee, up-to-date la- bor-saving devices. As our information concerning Porto Rico grows, so apparently do the island's possibilities. It is un- usually fertile, and its dominant industries are agri- culture and lumbering. In elevated regions the vege- tation of the temperate zone is not unknown. There are more than 500 varieties of trees found in the for- ests, and the plains are full of palm, orange and other trees ; while the principal crops are sugar, coffee, to- bacco, cotton and maize, bananas, rice, pineapples and many other fruits are important products. The principal minerals found in Porto Rico are gold, carbonates and sulphides of copper and mag- netic oxide of iron in large quantities. Lignite is found at Utuado and Moca, and also yellow amber. A large variety of marbles, limestones and other building stones are deposited on the island, but these resources are very undeveloped. There are salt works at Guanica and Salinac, on the south coast, and at Cape Rojo, on the west, and these constitute the principal mineral industry in Porto Rico. In a recent report Mr. Robert P. Porter states that while the actual sugar production of Porto Rico is now 50,000 tons under American impulse, it could be raised to 150,000 tons. As to COST of LIVING and WAGES PAID. Both these matters are in an unsettled condition at present, due to the change of rates and values at- 164 Our New Possessions. tending the process of reconstruction. As a general thing, though, the cost of Hving is a trifle less in Porto Rico than it is in Cuba, while the wages paid is some- what higher. Hotel rates range from $1.50 to $2 a day, Spanish money, and there are many excellent boarding houses in most of the large towns. Restaurants furnish good meals for from 25 cents to 50 cents and the in- digenous fruits and vegetables of the country are wonderfully cheap. Imported articles of food, mer- chandise and manufacture are naturally high, but the prices of these have been much lessened since the American occupation. A list of the best hotels on the island is as follows : San Juan. — Grand Hotel and Restaurant Ingla- terra. Grand Hotel de Francia, Grand Cafe Central, Hotel Marina, Mt. Vernon Hotel, the Mayflower Hotel. Ponce. — The Chamberlin Hotel, Hotel Arcadia, Hotel Washington. Arecibo — Cristobal Colon. Guaco. — American Victory Hotel, Twenty-fifth Day of July Hotel. Guayama. — Hotel Francis. The peso is the monetary unit of the island and its value, together with that of the other coins current there until the involved subject of currency has been settled, has been fixed as follows : Gold Coins. Alphonsinos (25-peseta piece) $4.82 Louis (20-f ranc piece) 3.86 Porto Rico and Adjacent Isles. 165 Silver Coins. The peso -- $0-6o Medio peso 30 Peseta ^^ Real 06 Medio real ^3 Bronze and copper coins are received at their face value in payments not exceeding one peseta. As to GOVERNMENT, LAWS and INSTITUTIONS. The island of Porto Rico was ceded outright to the United States and is at present "under the military control of this country, pending such legislation by Congress as shall determine its future government." Gen. Guy V. Henry is the Military Governor of the island, assisted by an advisory board, under the name of Insular Cabinet. The work of building up a new and better order of things on the ruins of the old Spanish rule, and using such of that material as is possible in the pro- cess of reconstruction, is slowly going on. Railroads are in their infancy, and outside of the celebrated military road across the island, said to be one of the most beautiful in the world, the means and paths of travel are very deficient. These single- track railroads are in some sort of operation : From Aguadilla to San German 32 miles From Ponce to Coamo 26 From San Juan to Arroyo. 48 i66 Our New Possessions. A company has been formed at Providence, R. I., in which New York and Boston capitalists are inter- ested, for the purpose of buying, building and operat- ing steam or electric railroads in Porto Rico, as well as to establish a steamship line, with fortnightly ser- vice, between Providence and Ponce. One of its first enterprises is announced to be the construc- tion of an electric road from Ponce to San Juan, Because of years of oppression and repression, the people are ignorant and poor in a land of plenty. The monetary system needs entire revision. The Spanish merchants have drained the agricultural classes dry ; the courts have been maladministered ; the school system has been a farce ; sanitation was unknown, and it is to the gradual amelioration, and, when necessary, eradication of these things that the new government is giving its patient attention. The so-called system of public schools was divided into the elementary, supported by the municipalities, and two higher grades, supported by the Insular Government. There were mighty few text books, one "flourishing" school of seventy pupils having a total of six books. The school census has been a farce, and so deficient has a common education been that when the people were numbered in 1887 it was found that out of a population of 806,708 only 11,380 could read or write. General John Eaton was appointed school superin- tendent of Porto Rico by the President January 25. He found that the municipalities took little or no in- terest in scholastic matters ; that most of the country schools were closed for want of funds, and that the most prominent school on the island had thirty pupils, Porto Rico and Adjacent Isles. 167 To remedy all this. General Eaton has diligently set himself to work, but he is hampered by lack of funds. English-Spanish speaking teachers are want- ed, and, pending our Government's direct aid to edu- cation, General Henry has offered to pay teachers $50 a month American money, twelve months in the year. School libraries are being founded, the post-ofRce is getting into good trim, the filth is being removed and daylight is being let into the dark roads. Religious intolerance has not prevailed to such an extent in Porto Rico as it has in Cuba, and Ponce has boasted for some time of its Protestant church, then said to be the only one in the Spanish West In- dies. Active steps are being taken in this country to add others to that solitary church. The Chicago Episcopal Diocese has appointed the Rev. Geo. B. Pratt as special missionary to the island and most of the religious agencies are sending workers to Porto Rico. There are newspapers in San Juan and Ponce, pub- lished in English and displaying quite an amount of enterprise. As £0 Its CITIES. San Juan, the capital, is situated on a long and nar • row island, separated from the main island at one end by a shallow arm of the sea, over which is a bridge connecting it with the mainland, which runs out at this point in a long sand spit, some nine miles in length, apparently to meet the smaller island; at i68 Our New Possessions. the other end the island ends in a rugged bluff or promontory, some hundred feet high. This promon- tory is crowned by Morro Castle, the principal forti- fication of the town. At this end of the island is the entrance to the harbor, with a narrow channel and rocky bottom, so close under the headland that one can almost leap ashore from a passing vessel. The water here is some thirty feet deep. To a mariner unacquainted with the locality, or when a norther is blowing, this entrance is one of difficulty and danger. After rounding the bluff one finds a broad and beautiful bay, landlocked and with a good depth of water, which is being increased by dredging. It is by far the best harbor in Porto Rico, and probably as good a one as can be found in the West Indies. The island upon which the city stands is shaped much like an arm and hand. The greatest width is a little over half a mile in the portion represent- ing the hand, which also contains the major part of the city. San Juan is a perfect specimen of a walled town, with portcullis, moat, gates and battlements. Built over two hundred and fifty years ago, it is still in good condition and repair. The walls are pictur- esque and represent a stupendous work and cost in themselves. Inside the walls the city is laid off in regular squares, six parallel streets running in the direction of the length of the island and seven at right angles. The houses are closely and compactly built of brick, usually of two stories, stuccoed on the outside and painted in a variety of colors. The up- per floors are occupied by the better-to-do peo- ple, while the ground floors, almost without excep- tion, are given up to negroes and the poorer class. Porto Rico and Adjacent Isles. 169 There is no running water in the town. The entire population depends upon rain water, caught upon the flat roofs of the buildings and conducted to the cis- tern, which occupies the greater part of the inner courtyard that is an essential part of Spanish houses the world over. There is no sewerage, except for surface water and sinks. The streets are wider than in the older part of Havana and will admit two carriages abreast. The sidewalks are narrow and in places will accommodate but one person. The pave- ments are of a composition manufactured in Eng- land from slag, pleasant and even and durable when no heavy strain is brought to bear upon them, but easily broken and unfit for heavy traffic. From its topographical situation the town should be healthy. The soil under the city is clay, mixed with lime, so hard as to be almost like rock. It is consequently im- pervious to water and furnishes a good natural drain- age. The trade wind blows strong and fresh and through the harbor runs a stream of sea water at a speed of not less than three miles an hour. With these conditions no contagious diseases, if properly taken care of, could exist. Besides the town within the walls, there are small portions just outside, called the Marina and Puerta de Tierra, containing two or three thousand inhabi- tants each. There are also two suburbs, one, San Turce, approached by the only road leading out of the city, and the other, Catario, across the bay, reached by ferry. The Marina and the two suburbs are situated on sandy points or spits, and the latter are surrounded by mangrove swamps. The full name of the city is San Juan de Bautista and it was founded by Ponce de Leon. 170 Our New Possessions. Ponce is situated on a plain, about two miles from the seaboard. It is regularly built — the central part almost exclusively of brick houses and the suburbs of wood. It was the residence of the military comman- der and the seat of an official chamber of commerce. There is an appellate criminal court, besides other courts; two churches, two hospitals, a home of refuge for the old and poor, a well-equipped fire depart- ment, a bank, a theatre, three first-class hotels and gas works. The city has an ice machine and there are 115 vehicles for public conveyance. The inhabitants are principally occupied in mer- cantile pursuits, but carpenters, bricklayers, joiners, tailors, shoemakers and barbers find good employ- ment. Commercially Ponce is the second city of im- portance on the island. A fine road leads to the port (Playa), where all the import and export trade is transacted and where are situated the custom house, the office of the captain of the port and all the con- sular offices. The port is spacious and will hold ves- sels of twenty-five feet draft. Water for all pur- poses, including the fire department, is amply sup- plied by an aqueduct. Mayagues, the third city in importance of the isl- and, is situated in the west part, facing the Mona Channel. Mayaguez is the second port for coffee, the average annual export being 170,000 hundred- weights. The quality is of the best, ranging in price with Java and other first-rate brands. About 50,000 bags of flour are imported into this port every year from the United States out of the 180,000 bags that are consumed in the whole island. The city is con- Porto Rico and Adjacent Isles. 171 nected by trains with the neighboring town of Agua- dilla. with a partially constructed extension to San German, one of the large interior towns. Aguadilla is the principal town and the port of Aguadilla District, in the northwest portion of the island. The industries in the vicinity consist of the cultivation of sugar cane, coffee, tobacco and cocoa- nuts and the distillation of rum. Arecibo is situated on the north coast, facing the Atlantic Ocean and some fifty miles from San Juan. It is similar to all Spanish towns, with a plaza sur- rounded by the church and other public buildings in the centre, and streets running from it in right an- gles, forming regular squares. The buildings are constructed of wood and brick. The harbor is poor, being nothing more than an open roadstead, exposed to the full force of the ocean, in which vessels dur- ing northerly winds can hardly lie in safety. Into this harbor empties a narrow and shallow stream called the Rio Grande de Arecibo. Goods are con- veyed on this river to and from the town in flat-bot- tomed boats, with the aid of long poles and by dint of much pushing and patience. At the bar of the river everything is again transferred into lighters and thence to vessels. It is a tedious and expensive process. However, Arecibo is quite an im.portant port and has tributary to it a large district of some 30,000 inhabitants. Fajardo lies on the east coast. The port is hand- some, the town being about one and a quarter miles from the bay. The only important industry of the 172 Our New Possessions. district is the maniifactiire of muscovado sugar, to which most of the planters devote themselves. Arroyo, in the district of Guayama (southeast por- tion), is a small seaport whose annual exports to the United States average 7,000 to 10,000 hogsheads of sugar, 2,000 to 5,000 casks of molasses and 50 to 150 casks and barrels of bay rum. Altogether there are about seventy towns and vil- lages of considerable size on the island. As to GENERAL DESCRIPTION. The parallelogram-shaped island of Porto Rico is the most eastern of the Greater Antilles. It is sep- arated from the Danish island of St. Thomas by a reef-studded passage fifty miles across and from Hayti on the west by the Mona Passage, seventy miles across. The island is traversed from east to west by a mountain range, dividing it into two unequal por- tions, by far the longest slope being on the north, so that the rivers on that coast are much the longer. From this chain several branches diverge toward the north coast, giving it a rugged appearance. Most of the population is situated on the lowlands at the sea front of the hills. For lack of roads, the interior is accessible only by mule trails or saddle paths, and it is covered with vast forests. Rivers and brooks are numerous, forty-seven very considerable rivers having been enumerated. They Porto Rico and Adjacent Isles. ly^ are short and rapid, especially on the Caribbean slopes, which are steep and abrupt. The mountains intercept the northeast trade winds blowing from the Atlantic and wring their moisture from them, so that the rainfall of the north section is very copious. South of the mountains several droughts occur and agriculture demands irrigation, but such work is un- systematically carried on. The northeast coast is broken and forbidding; that of the south safer. The chief port on the north coast is the capital, San Juan. On the west is the impor- tant harbor of Mayaguez. On the south side are Guanica, Ponce and Guayama. As to SCENIC INTEREST, Until there are better means of communication within the island, the interior of Porto Rico will be a fairer field for the explorer than for the excursion- ist. The conditions of the railroads and highways has already been referred to. and in the section de- voted to the cities there will be found references to many points of interest. The luxuriance of the vegetation, the equability of the climate, the great plantations, the indolent char- acter of the native life, the antiquity of its cities and churches, the wildness of its mountain scenery and the peaceful aspect of its sylvan lowlands, the tropi- cal beauties along the river banks and the varied cliff and beach of its coast, will all combine to make 174 Our New Possessions. Porto Rico one of the most charming resorts in the Antilles. As to HISTORY. Porto Rico v;as discovered by Columbus in 1493 and invaded by the Spaniards, under Ponce de Leon, who in a few years exterminated the natives, then 600,000 or 800,000 in number. Slavery was abolished by the Spanish Cortes in March, 1873. The United States Army, under General Miles, landed at Guanicaon and the town surrendered imme- diately, Ponce following July 28, 1898. When the armistice was proclaimed, August 12, the American troops were prepared for a definitive campaign. The evacuation of Porto Rico began September 20th, our army and navy taking formal possession of the isl- and at San Juan, October 18, 1898. THE ISLAND OF VIEQUE. The island of Vieque, situated thirteen miles east of Porto Rico, is twenty-one miles long and six miles wide. Its land is very fertile and adapted to the cultivation of almost all the fruits and vegetables that grow in the West Indies. Cattle are raised and sugar cultivated. It has a population of some 6,000. Porto Rico and Adjacent Isles. 175 The town. Isabel Segimda, is on the north, and the port is unsafe in times of northerly wind, like all the anchorages on that side; the few ports on the south are better, the best being Punta Arenas. Not long ago there were two importing and ex- porting houses on the island of Vieque; but, on ac- count of the long period of drought and the high duties on foreign imported goods, trade has de- creased to local consumption only. All supplies are brought from San Juan, the majority being of Amer- ican origin. The climate is fine and there have never been any contagious diseases. 4- PAGE INDEX. Ph. = Philippines. H. I. = Hawaiian Islands. C. = Cuba. P. R. = Porto Rico. A. Area— Ph., 7; H. I., 42; C, 78; P. R., 149. Americans in — Ph., 8; H. I., 43. Agriculture— Ph., 32, 36, 2>1, 38; H. I., 55, 69; C, 114, 116; P. R., 162. Animals — Ph., Z'^, 35; C., 118. B. British in — Ph., 8, 19; H. I., 43. Business Chances — Ph., 19; H. L, 55; C, 112; P. R., 161. Boots and Shoes — Ph., 21. Bananas— H. I., 52, 56; C, 116; P. R., 163. Boundaries — Ph., 8; H. I., 42; P. R,, 172, Buildings— Ph., 24, 27, 28, 29; H. I., 68; C, 128; P. R., 168, 171. Boston to — C, 96. C. Climate— Ph., 9; H. L, 44; C, 84; P. R., 151. Cuba — C, 78. Cubans — C, 128. Cost of Getting to — Ph., 13; H. I., 46; C, 93; P. R., 154. Cost of Living in — H. I., 57; C, 119; P. R., 163, Carriage Fares — H. I., 58. Commerce — Ph., 2>'2., ZZ', H. I., 52; C, 102; P. R., 156. Coffee— H. I., 52, 56; C, 116; P. R.. 158, 162. Courts — H. I., 63 ; C, 123 ; P. R., 165. Cities— Ph., 23; H. I., 67; C, 80; P. R., 150, 167, 172. Churches — Ph., 2Z, 24, 26; H. I., (iT, C, 127, 130; P. R., 167. Coast— Ph., 31 ; C, 137; P. R., 149, 173. Cattle— Ph.. 36; H. I., 57; C, 118, 142. 178 Page Index. Cardenas — C, 80, 135. Cienfuegos — C, 80, 133. Crops— Ph., 36, 37, 38; H. I., 55; C, 114, 116; P. R., 163. Cigars — C, 114. Cane Lands— Ph., 37; H. I., 69; C, 115; P. R., 163. Cable Service — Ph., 15. 16; H. I., 69; C., 100; P. R., 156. Chinese in — Ph., 8, 19; H. I., 43, 59. Cigarettes — Ph., 19; C, 115. Cavite — Ph., 26. D. Distances — Ph., 12; H. L, 46; C, 91 ; P. R., 154. Description — Ph., 30; H. I., 68; C, 137; P. R., 172. E. Exports— Ph., 16; H. I., 52; C. 102; P. R., 156. Education — H. I., 64, 70; C., 125 ; P. R., 166. Extent— Ph., 8; H. I., 42; C, 78; P. R., 149- EngHsh in — Ph., 8, 19; H. I., 43. Employment— Ph., 19; H. I., 55, 56, 57, 59, 64; C, 120; P. R., 166. F. Freight Rates — H. I., 51 ; C, 99. Forests— Ph., 35, 36, 38; C, 118; P. R., 163. Factories — Ph., 19, 25, 36, 39; C, 143; P. R., 162. Fruits — H. I., 56; C, 104, 114, 116; P. R., 163. Farming— Ph., 32, 36, 37, 38; H. I., 55, 69; C, 114, 116; P. R., 162. Filipinos — Ph., 8, 9. G. Germans in — Ph., 19; H. I., 43. Government — Ph., 22; H. I., 60; C, 122; P. R., 165. General Description — Ph., 30; H. L, 68; C, 137; P. R., 172. Gold-Ph., 35, 37, 38; C, 116; P. R., 163. Game — Ph., 35; C, 118. H. Hawaii — H. I., 42. Page Index. lyg Hawaiians — H. I., 43, 44, 62. Humidity— Ph., 10; H. I., 45; C, 86; P. R., 152. Honolulu — H. I., 67. Health— H. I., 45; C, 89; P. R., 151. 175. How to Get to— Ph., 13, 14, 15; H. I., 46; C, 93; P. R., 154- Hotel Rates— H. I., 58; C, 119; P. R., 164. Harbors— Ph., 34; H. I., 71 ; C, 137; P. R., 167. History — Ph., 40; H. I., 73; C, 145; P. R., 174. Havana — C, 80, 129. Hemp — Ph., 16, 17. Houses — Ph., 24, 29; H. I., 68; C, 129; P. R., 169. r. Islands, Names of — Ph., 7; H. I., 42; C, 78, 146; P. R., 149- Islands, Number of — Ph., 7; H. I., 42; C, 146; P. R., 149. Imports — Ph., 17, 18; H. I., 53; C, 102; P. R., 156. Institutions — Ph., 23, 24; H. I., 64; C, 125 ; P. R., 165. Industries— Ph., 19, 20, 21, 25, 29, 35, 36, 39; H. I., 55, 57, 59, 65, 69; C, 112; P. R., 161, 162. Isle of Pines — C, 146. Inhabitants — Ph., 8, 9; H. I., 43 ; C, 79, 83 ; P. R., 150. Investments — Ph., 19, 20, 21; H. I., 55; C, 112; P. R., 161. Iloilo — Ph., 29. Island of Vieque — P. R., 174. J. Japanese in — Ph., 8; H. I., 42. Judiciary — H. I., 63 ; C, 123 ; P. R., 165. L. Latitude— Ph., 8; H. I., 42. Longitude — Ph., 8; H. I., 42. Liquors — H. I., 53; C, 90. Land— H. I., 56; C., 113; P. R., 162. Labor — H. I., 59; C, 115; P. R., 163, 166. Laws — Ph., 22; H. I., 60; C, 122; P. R., 165. Languages — Ph., 8, 9 ; H. I., 64 ; C, 128, i8o Page Index. Leprosy — H. I., 75. Length of— Ph., 8: C, 78; P. R., 149- Living, Cost of— H. L, 57; C, 119; P. R., 164. Luzon — Ph., 7, 23 to 28. Live Stock— Ph., 36, 2>7 ', H. L, 57; C, 118, 142. M. Meals en Route to— H. L, 48; C, 98. Mail Service— Ph., 15 ; H. L, 51 ; C, 100; P. R., 155. Merchant Marine — H. L, 54. Mountains— Ph., 34; H. L, 71 ; C, 117, I37; P- R-, 172. Manila — Ph., 23. Mines— Ph., 35, z6, 37, 38, 39; C, 116, 132, 143; P. R., 163. Matanzas— C, 80, 131. Malays in— Ph., 8. Manufactures— Ph., 19; H. L, 57; C, 143; P. R., 162. N. Nationalities— Ph., 8, 9; H. L, 43; C, 79, 83; P. R., 150. New York to— Ph., 12, 13; H. L, 47; C, 93; P. R., I54- Northwestern Ports to — H. L, 50. Newspapers — H. L, 66 : C, 128 ; P. R., 167. Number of Islands — Ph., 7 ; H. L, 42; C, 146; P. R., 149. New Orleans to— Ph., 14; H. L, 49. P. Porto Rico— P. R., 149. Population— Ph., 8; H. L, 43; C, 79, 83; P. R., 150. Portuguese — H. I., 43, 44. Polynesians — Ph., 8, 9; H. L, 43. Philippines — Ph., 7. Postage, Rates of— Ph., 15; H. L, 52; C, 100; P. R., 156. Provisions, Price of — H. L, 57; C, 119, 121; P. R., 164. Police — H. L, 63; C, 124. Provinces — Ph., 35 to 40; C, 79, 137; P. R., 164. Products— Ph., 19, 20, 32, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40; H. L, 52, 55, 68; C, 114; P. R., 161. Papers— H. L, 66; C, 128; P. R., 167. Puerto Principe — C, 80, 133. Philadelphia to — C, 100. Ponce — P. R., 167, 170. Page Index. l8l R. Routes to — Ph., 13, 14; H. I.. 47: C, 93; P. R., 154. Railway Lines to — Ph., 13, 14; H. I., 47; C, 93; P. R., 154. Railway Fares to — Ph., 13, 14; H. I., 47; C, 94; P. R., 154- Railroads in— Ph., 18; H. I., 55; C, 106; P. R., 165. Religion— Ph., 23; H. I., 67; C, 127; P. R., 167. Rivers — Ph., 23; C, 137; P. R., 172. Resources— Ph., 16, 19, 20, 25, 32, ZZ, 35 to 39; H. I., 52, 55, 68; C, 114: P. R., 161. Rainfall— Ph., 10; H. I., 45; C, 87; P. R., 153- Roads — Ph.. 22\ H. I., 72', C, iii, 131; P. R., 165, 172. Revenues — Ph., 3Z\ C, 125. Rice— H. I., 52; C, 106; P. R., 157, 163. S. Steamship Lines to — Ph., 13, 14; H. L, 47; C, 94; P. R., 154. San Francisco to — Ph., 12, 14; H. L, 50. Stock, Live— Ph., z^^ 38; H. L, 57; C, 118, 142. Schools— H. L, 64; C, 126; P. R., 166. Sugar— Ph., 17; H. L, 52, 57, 69; C, 104, 115; P. R., 158, 162. Scenic Interest — H. L, 72; C, 143; P. R., 173. Santiago — C, 80, 132. Storms— Ph., 11; C, 87; P. R., 168. Soil— Ph., 32; C, 115; P. R., 162. Spanish in — Ph., 8, 19; C, 79; P. R., 150. St. Louis to — Ph., 14; H. I., 49. Savannah to — C, 96. San Juan — P. R., 167. T. Time in Getting to— Ph., 13, 14; H. L, 46; C, 93; P. R., 154. Transportation to — Ph., 13, 14, 15; H. I., 46; C, 93: P. R., 154. Temperature — Ph., 10; H. I., 44; C, 84; P. R., 152. Trade— Ph., 16; H. L, 52; C, 102; P. R., 156. Teachers— H. L, 64; C., 125, 126; P. R., 166, l82 Page Index. Tobacco— Ph., i6, 36; C, 104, 114; P. R., 157, 162. Timber Lands— Ph., 35, 36, 38; C, 118; P. R., 163. Tribes— Ph., 8, 9. Telegraph and Telephone in — C, loi ; P. R., 156. Typhoons — Ph., 11, 12. Travel in— H. I., 55, 72; C, in, 131 ; P. R., 165, 172. Tourists, Points for — H. I., 72; C, 143; P. R., 173. V. Vessels — H. I., 54. Volcanoes— Ph., 31, 34, 35 ; H. I., 7Z- Vieque, Island of — P. R., 174. W. Wages— H. I., 57, 59; C., 119, 120; P. R., 163, 166. Y. Yarns — Ph., 20. i2mo, cloth ^ $1.2^ KLONDIKE A Manual for Gold Seekers By CHARLES A. BRAMBLE *' About all that can be told will be found in the present volume of 313 pages, a map included."— Philadelphia Inquirer. " Mr. Bramble is a member of the editorial staff of the Engineering and Mining Journal and was late crown lands surveyor of the Dominion of Canada. His experience in the Northwest Terri- tories has enabled him to select only what is valuable and reliable. — Toledo Blade. "This is the best book on the subject that we have yet seen. It strikes us the moment we open the book that we are in possession of reliable in- formation. The volume has a number of illustra- tions, which enable the reader to understand the conditions of life in the gold regions. — New York CommertAal Advertiser. ** It contains an answer for almost any question that one can ask about the Klondike or kindred subjects. The last chapters are on the mounted police of the Dominion Government and the Canadian mining laws. — Providence Journal. " The reading matter is in large type and printed on good white paper. The book is more of a library book than a pocket edition." — Seattle Post- Intelligence. *• The publishers deserve credit for the manner in which they have gotten out this valuable book. " New Orleans Sunday States. NEW YORK R. F. FENNO & COMPANY iztnOy cloth ^ $1.2$ Betrayal of John Fordham By B. L. FARJEON ' ' The plot is well constructed, the story is well told, and there is enough of mystery to satisfy the most exacting reader.' ' — Saturday Evening Gazette * ' ' The Betrayal of John Fordham ' is a new story by B. ly. Farjeon. It is of the detective order, full of murder and innumerable wrongs that become, at length, righted, and the much abused hero comes to happiness as the curtain falls. The working out of the plot, combined with peculiar incidents makes the story worth reading, especially if one likes a detective story. Almost everyone does, for a change. ' ' — Boston Times. ' ' Running through the story are the threads of one or two affairs of the heart, which are woven into pleasant conclusions. Some of the scenes are stirringly dramatic." — San Francisco Chronicle. "A new book, which, like the preceding ones from the pen of the same author, is a strong story and which promises to be extensively read, is B. ly. Farjeon's new novel, * The Betrayal of John Ford- ham. ' " — New Haven Joitrnal. "The plot is intricate and deeply involved and dramatically and skillfully worked out. ' * — Brooklyn Eagle. NEW YORK R. F. FENNO & COMPANY i2mo, cloth ^ $r.2$ ^^WHAT CHEER?" By W. CLARK RUSSEl.Iv • • Clark Russell is easily the Fenimore Cooper and Captain Marryatt of his time rolled into one His work IS, however, upon different lines from tnat ot the two great writers mentioned. Russell deals with modern conditions— with the sea of to-day The ocean has not altered, but its environ- ments have withm the century. To say that ' What I Cheer ? ' is one of Russell's best stories is its highest^ praise. ' '—Army and Navy Registei^ <( ( What Cheer?' will be found to be eminently r^^G^a^A^:' —Philadelphia Inquirer, " W. Clark Russell's sea stories are read by thou- sands and thousands of people who will be glad to know that another has been published by R F Fenno & Co. of New York. This latest novel is entitled « What Cheer ? ' In this particular kind of writing there is no other author like Mr. Russell and < What Cheer'? will be found worth readino- '» — Boston Globe. **' "There is something new about the plot of this story and it is good reading from beginning to ^n6.:'— Milwaukee Journal. ' ; The author of this book proved his capacity for writing good marine stories in the " Wreck of the Grosvenor,' and all who enjoyed that tale will be glad that there is a new one by the same pen. The writer is specially strong in his descriptive powers of sea scenes and sailors. He knows and loves well the ocean, and his pages are full of beautiful word paintings about it."— 5«« Francisco Call, NEW YORK R. F. FENNO & COMPANY I2tn0i clotht illustrated, $1.3$ Crime of the Boulevard By JUIvES CIvARBTIE " * The Crime of the Boulevard,' is worked up in a masterly manner, and it is the constructive power, the scenic arrangements, which are managed so nicely." — New York Times. "A thrillingly interesting Paris detective story, that will reveal to the unimitated a tale of the inside workings of the police methods of the French Capital, that must be given the credit of much ingenuity and originally." — Bosto?i Courier. ' ' This story is well told with the indefiabie fas- cination of the French novel." — Detroit Free Press, ** The book quivers with movement from end to end. ' ' — Deii^oit Tribune. "Jules Claretie is a famous man of letters. He is a member of the French Academy. He is a lucid and brilliant writer. His novels are packed with incident and vibrant with life. " — N. Y. World. "This is a strong story and one that will well repay reading." — Brooklyn Eagle. ** Jules Claretie's new story will keep your at- tention rivited from its first page to the last." — New Orleans States, NEW YORK R. F. FENNO & COMPANY t2nio, cloth, $1.2$ SOME WOMEN'S WAYS By MARY ANGKI.O DICKKNS "We can especially recommend this volume to all those who have a story which embraces all the elements of a full-fledged novel compressed in a few pages." — Lebanon Courier. "These nine stories are terse and dramatic, seizing some salient point in social life and making the plot of the story hinge upon it. ' '— Toledo Blade, "This excellent book is printed in large-faced type, upon good paper, and is bound in an orna- mental cloth cover." — Rutherford American. ' ' These are the kind of stories a reader welcomes when dull and tired." — The Butlook. "These sketches are delightful reading." — Boston Tifnes. "The stories are worth reading, and indicative of the inherited talent of a great daughter of Charles Dickens. " — Buffalo Commercial. " They are emotionally intense and morally irre- proachable — a combination which is unusual enough in current fiction to call for commendation." — St. Paul Daily Globe. "The smooth, scholarly style is a pleasure to read in this day of crudity and raw short tales." — New York Commercial Advertiser. NEW YORK R. F. FKNNO & COMPANY i2mo^ cloth y $1.25 The Professor's Experiment By MRS. HUNGERFORD (THl^ duchess) ** It has become necessary, in these days, to indicate the exceptional and welcome fact that this is a pure story ; painting cheery pictures of normal domestic life, and opening no side doors to encour- age the stealthy adventures of a prurient fancy. It is a novel, strictly speaking, involving neither sermon nor stump speech. It offers entertainment only, but it gives what it offers ; resting the tired brain and leaving no poison in the blood." — The Watchman. " ' The Professor's Experiment ' is the title of a new book by Mrs. Hungerford [The Dutchess]. It is of a somewhat more elaborate and ambitious character than this writer's recent stories, and shows a return to her earlier manner. The heroine is the impulsive, warm-hearted young Irish girl with whom all Mrs. Hung erf ord's readers are wel acquainted, but of whom, in her various phases and reappearances they do not tire." — Indianapolu Journal, NEW YORK R. F. FENNO & COMPANY I2m0t cloth, $1.2$ BEYOND THE PALE By B. M. CROKER. ** 'Beyond the Pale,' is a tale of Ireland written with uncommon vigor and spirit." — Syracuse Stafid- ard. **A delightful story of modern life in Ireland." — Ar^ny and Navy Register. "The action of this story is free and rapid, the tone clean, and the story well managed." — Public Opinion. "This is a bright and interesting story by an always popular author." — Albany Titnes-Union. "The tale is told very straightforwardly and agreeably, with many genuinely dramatic episodes and with much simple, honest humor and sym- pathy. ' ' — Boston Transcript. " This is a well-told story with strong local color, and fully worthy of a pen from which we always expect work that is wisely conceived and skillfully and artistically executed." — Southern Star. * * It is a stirring narrative which moves with the spring of a race horse from the start." — Brooklyn Eagle. NEW YORK H. F. FENNO & COMPANY Small I2m0t 75 cents, THE STORY OF A GENIUS Front the German of Ossip Schubin, The International in a recent issue had this to say concerning this talented authoress: •* ' Ossip Schubin' is the pseudonym of Aloysia ^ Kirschmer, an Austrian authoress of growing popularity. She was born in Prague, in June, 1854, and her early youth was spent on a country estate of her parents. Since her eighteenth year she has travelled extensively, spending her winters in some one of the large cities, Eome, Paris or Brussels, and her work shows the keen observation and cool judgment of a cosmopolitan writer. She is well liked in Eng- land.^' The story under consideration is infinite- ly sad, beautiful, exalting. At one moment you are rejoicing at the idyllic happiness of the lover, the bright promise of a glorious future. Then the scene changes, and your heart is bleeding with unutterable anguish at the mute g^rief that follows the irreparable loss of his love, which carries in its train lost ambition, talent, manhood. Just let iis quote one passage: " There is a suffering so painful that no hand is tender enough to touch it, and so deep that no heart is brave enough to fathom it. Dumbly we sink the head, as before something sacred. Never could he reproach her lying there before him, clad in the blue dress, of which every fold, so dear to him, cried * forgive ! ' Not to our des- ecrated love do I appeal, but to our sweet caress- ing friendship,— forgive the sister what the bride has done 1 ' How could he reproach herj with her parting kiss still on his lips ?" R. F. FENNO & COMPANY f and I EAST i6th STREET s NEW YORK J'iN 14" 1399 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS