Glass, Booki2^2i_ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/narrativeofsecon01hall TH Congress, > SENATE. ( Ex. Doc. 3d Session. j \ No. 27. NARRATIVE SECOND AECTIC EXPEDITION JLADE BY CHARLES R HALL: HIS VOYAGE TO REPULSE BAY, SLEDGE JOURNEYS TO THE STRAITS OF FURY AND HECLA AND TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND. AND RESIDENCE AMONG THE ESKIMOS DURING THE YEARS 1864-'69. EDITED UNDER THE ORDERS OF THE HON. SECRETARY OF THE NAVY, BY Prop. J. E. NOUKSE, U. S. K U. S. Naval Observatory, 1879. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1879. APR 1"^ is:^ D. Ota v^ V LETTEE FEOM THE SECRETARY OF THE NAVT, COMMUNICATING, IN ANSWER TO A SENATE RESOLUTION OF FEBRUARY 0, 1877, THE NARRATIVE OF THE SECOND EXPEDITION TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS, MADE BY THE LATE CAPT. C. F. HALL, DURING THE YEARS 18G4 TO 18G9. January 14, 1879. — Ordered to lie on the table aud bo printed. Navy Department, Washington, January 14, 1879. Sir: On the 6tli of February, 1877, the following resolution was adopted by the Senate, on motion of Mr. Sargent : Bcsolvcd, That the Secretary of the Navy fiiriiisb, throngli the Superintendent of the Naval Observatory, a narrative of the second expedition to the Arctic Regions, made by the late Capt. C. F. Hall, during the years 18G4 to 1869, said narrative to be compiled from the manuscripts purchased from the widow of said Hall by act of Congress approved Jainiary 23, 1874. The Narrative has been prepared in accordance with the resolu- tion, and I have the honor to transmit the same herewith, accompanied by a letter from Rear-Admiral John Rodgers, Superintendent of the Naval Observatory, dated the 11th instant, and a communication from Prof. J. E. Nourse, who was directed to prepare the Narrative. I am, very respectfully, R. W. THOMPSON, Secretary of the Navy. Hon. William A. Wheeler, Vice-President of the United States. U. S. Naval Observatoky, January 10, 1879. Admiral : I have the honor to submit herewith the Narrative of the residence of the late Capt. C. F. Hall among the Eskimos, whicli has been prepared for the Senate, by the orders of the Department, under your superintendence and advice. The Manuscripts of Captain Hall's explorations, purchased by Congress, have been found to present a mass of writing in the fonn of journals, note-books, and even scattered leaves, exhibiting a large .amount of close observation, the results of which the lamented ex- plorer more than once expressed his desire to arrange with his own hand and publish. In preparing the Narrative the aim has been to exercise a close discrimination in the selection of the material which seemed the most valuable chiefly in its geographical and ethnological bearings. The astronomical and meteorological observations, reduced from Hall's journal entries, are given in Appendixes I and II. Mr. R. W. D. Bryan, late of the Polaris Expedition, assisting in the preparation of the Narrative, under the orders of the Department, has rendered very valuable services in arrano-ino- and condensing the material found in the journals and in superintending the astronomical and meteorolog- ical reductions. Prof. C. Abbe will kindly re-examine the last Letter. named. Through the courtesy of Professor Baird, Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, and of Professor White, United States Geolo- gist, a valuable paper on the geological collections brought by Hall to the United States has been furnished from the pen of Prof. B. K. Emerson, of Amherst College. The two years preceding this expedition being years of severe labor spent by Captain Hall in preparing for the renewal of his earlier work which had the same objects in view, the Narrative commences with this period of preparation, and is thus legitimately linked to the objects of Sir John Franklin's Expedition of 1845 and to the expedi- tions sent out for his relief. In a Preliminary Chapter the results of these are given in tabulated form, with maps illustrative of the general progress of geographical exploration secured by these expeditions. I have to acknowledge the courtesy shown by Sir Leopold McClintock and by Admiral R Collinson, R. N., in the communica- tions received from them ; the kindness of Miss Sophia Cracroft in returning two of Hall's journals which had been sent by him to Lady Franklin, and in the loan of a portrait of Sir John which has been repro- duced by the Bureau -of Engraving and Printing ; and the receipt through the State Department of valued statistical information col- lated by United States Consul McDougal, of Dundee. The assistance rendered to Hall by his numerous friends is named within the text, from his own acknowledgments. I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, J. E. NOURSE, Prof., U. S. N. Rear-Admiral John Rodgers, Superintendent. CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS. OFFICIAL LETTERS. Letter of Hon. R. W. Tliompson, Secretary of the Navy, to tlie Vice-President U. S. Letter of Rear- Admiral Rodgers, Superintendent of the Naval Observatory, to the Secre- tary of the Navy, forwarding the Narrative. PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. Page. Hall's three expeditions — Purchase of his manuscripts by Congress — Resolution of the Senate of February 6, 1877 — The three expeditions comj)ared — Connection of the first and of the second with the Franklin Expedition — Correspondence with Lady Franklin — Hall's " appeal " and lecture in 1860 — Tables of English and of Ameri- can explorations for the Northwest Passage and for the relief of Franklin — Bene- ficial results and estimated costs of these expeditious, public and private, stated in a letter from Admiral Sir Leopold McCliutock, R. N. — The small percentage of deaths — Arctic authorities, 1818-1860 XI-L CHAPTER I. PREPARATORY WORK FOR THE EXPEDITION. September to December, 1862. Hall returns from his First Expedition — Telegrai>h8 from St. John's, Newfoundland, ex- pressing his piu-pose of a second voyage — Writes to ilr. Griunell from Cincinnati, desiring to present the Frobisher relics to the English peojile — His abstract Of Captain DOlon's discovery of the rehcs of La Perouse's Expedition — Studies Hak- luyt, Purchas, and other authorities, and finds proof of the genuiueness of his discoveries — Reads a paper before the American Geographical Society, avowing his purpose of returning North in the following year — Ackuowleilgmcnt by the Royal Geographical Society of the receipt of the relics — Correspondence with Mr. John Barrow and with Captain Becher, R. N., resulting in the preparation of a new Arctic volume by Admiral Colliasou, R. N., for the Hakluyt Society— Hall's account of his discoveries read before the Royal Geographical Society, London — Their gen- uineness confirmed by Rac, Barrow, Markham, and Young — His abstract of the three expeditions of Sii- Martin Frobisher — Addenda 3-10 " CONTENTS. CHAPTER 11. PEEPAEATIONS FOE THE VOYAGE— HALL SAILS FEOM NEW LONDON. December, 1862, to July, 1864. Hall lectures for liis personal support and that of the two Eskimos — His care of these people— Death of Tuk-ee-li-kee-ta — Friends gained for the Second Expedition — Plan of an expedition submitted by Hall, March 17, 1863, to Mr. Grinnell and E. H. Chapell, of New London, Conn. — Hall's preference for a plan which would not include whaling — Financial difliculties — Embarrassments in forming new friend- ships — Determination to go out a second time, even for an absence of ten years — Expectation of finding new whaling-grounds — Con-espondence on this subject with Mr. E. H. Chapell and Professor Bache, Superintendent United States Coast Sur- vey — Disappointment as to assistance from the Legislature and from the New York Chamber of Commerce— Failure to obtain a loan of instniments from the Gov- ernment — Card to the public, postponing the expedition to another year — Hall resumes work on the "Arctic Eesearches" — Lectures before the Long Island His- torical Society — May, 1864, renews his appeal, indorsed by leading citizens — Loans of instruments— Free passage tendered by Mr. Chapell— Hospitable reception at New London — Sails for St. John's 23-44 CHAPTER III. FEOM ST. JOHN'S, NEWFOUNDLAND, TO WINTER QUAETEES ON THE WELCOME. July 18 to October 1, 1864. Arrival at St. John's, Newfoundland — Departure for Hudson's Bay — Passage tlirough the Straits — Exciting capture of two Polar bears — The Monticello lands Hall at Depot Island and cruises for whales — A white man hired from the whalers — The Helen F. takes Hall's party toward the Wager River — Mistakes the latitude, landing them forty miles south— Tents set up and cache made — First meeting with the Innuits from Eepulse Bay— Inquiries made of them as to Franklin's Expedition— Change of the season— Removal of tupiks— The Innuits collect their fur di-esses- Their fre- quent visits to Hall's tupiks— Snow-cMfts— Wolf-tracks-Snow-partridges-Con- structiou of an igloo — Winter (juarters 47-76 CHAPTER IV. I>;TER('0URSE with the innuits— their feasts AND HUNTS. October to December 31, 1864. Hall's ministrations to the snifering- Tlu'ir gratitude- Feasts described— Ebierbing ankooted — An aurora — Magnetic oljservalory erected— Sledge journey down the Welcome — Musk-ox hunt — A fox caught in his own trap— Customs in making reindeer deposits — A ))eiir shiin — Prcpiiradon of slrize — Rejoicings at the first success of a young Innnit — Customs at the birth of an infant — Moving from kom-mongs into tupiks — Appearance of the deserted village — Aurora — Journey to Repulse Bay — Refraction — Encamjiment on Oog-la-ri-your Island — Ou-e-la's dexterity in hunting — Game secured — The making of ook-gook lines — Clearing out of the ice— Appearance of the whalers in the Welcome — Refraction — Storm — Treatment of the dogs — The tides — Death of Shoo- .she-ark-nook — Mourning custo^— »Eeuewed appearance of whalers in Repulse Bay — Capture of a whale by the crews of Hall's boats — Encampment near Fort Hoi)e of Dr. Rae — Hall's notes of the rocks, stones, and sand found on the ice, com- pared with Parry's observations 1G7-198 iv CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. A SECOND WINTEE LIFE— PEEPAEATIONS FOE THE FIEST SLEDGE JOUENEY TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND. September, 1865, to April, 1866. rians for a sledge journey in the spring — Separation from the Innuits — Ebierbiug, Too- koo-U-too, and Ar-mou's family remain witli Hall — His interest in the deer-hnnts — Danger to life experienced — An aurora described by Hall as seen from his bed on the rocks — Largo number of deer slain — Hall's reindeer deposits — Severe gale — Too-koo-li-too's remembrance of the Brooklyn ladies wishing her to dress like civilized people — Exposures on visiting the deposits — Failure to catch salmon — Hall's daily subsistence — He prepares skin garments — Eemoval toNow-yarn — News of the drowning of Ar-too-a — Feasts and amusements at Now-yarn — Visit to Oog-la- ri-your Island— Troubles with the natives— Eeconciliation and encouragements — Temi)erature of the winter months — Frequent axiroras — Eeadiness for a forward move to King William's Land 201-23.3 CHAPTER VIII. FIEST ADVANCE TOWAED KING WILLIAM'S LAND— SLEDGE JOUENEY TO COL VILE BAY AND EETUEN. March 31 to May 25, 1866. Start for King William's Land March 31 — Hall's companions — His exposure — Walks behind the sledges — Gale-bound — Innuit legends of the wolf and the bear — An-koo- ting for Too-koo-li-too's sick infant — Uncertainty of the guides — Dr. Eae's chart followed — Letters sent back to the whalers — Tardiness of the natives — Eenowed an-koo-ting for the child — Further delays — Icing of the sleds renewed — The Sea of Ak-koo-lee reached on the twenty-eighth day of a journey once made by Eae in five days — Meeting with natives from Pelly Bay — Their accounts of Franklin's ships — Eelics obtained from them — Intimidation of Hall's men by these natives — Hall compelled to return from Colvile Bay — Leaves a deposit at Capo Wcyntou for his next journey — Buries Too-koo-li-too's child, '* Little King William"— Arrives at Beacon Hill May 23 — The Innuits agree to go back the next year 237-269 CHAPTER IX. JOURNEYS AEOUND EEPULSE BAY, SUMMEE LIFE, AND THIED WINTEE. June, 18G6, to February, 1867. Conditions necessary for a new journey — Experience with the natives of Pelly Bay — Arrival of the tribe at E-nook-shoo-lik — Hall goes out to meet them — Eeception of their au-ge-ko — Their story of the white man's monument at Shar-too — The tin cup with paper in it which was thrown away— The skeletons by the monument — The CONTENTS. y superstitions of these people — Hall accused of bringing sickness among them — The hanging of the old chief and his wife by their son "to take them to the happy land" — Hall keeps the peace between the Pelly Bay and the Repulse Bay natives — Settles som« old feuds in his tupik — His sledge journeys for survey of the bay — Embarrassments in his work — Death of Ou-e-la's wife — Ill-treatment of women — Arrival of the whalers — Hall requests them to spare men from their crews for his next journey — His assistance to the captains — The ships decide to winter in the bay — Hall encamps near them iu November — Intercourse through the winter — The captains will not let the Innnits furnish him with dogs 273-290 CHAPTER X. SLEDGE JOURNEY TO IG-LOO-LIK FOR DOGS. February 7 to April 1, 18(')7. Counter-claims on the Innnits for their dogs — Hall determines to make a sledge jonrney to Ig-loo-lik to purchase his own team — Leaves Ships' Harbor Islands February 7 — First delays — Ou-e-la loses his way — Provisions become scarce — The mouths of the dogs tied up to prevent their eating the harness — Am-i-toke reached, but no natives found — Ou-e-la accuses Hall of bringing him to starvation — Ig-loo-lik reached on the 27th — Purchase of dogs — Visit to Tern Island, to Parry's flag-staff^Ou-e-la puts a widow and her household goods on the return sled — Hall puts her off on the ice — Starts back with another native as driver — Ou-e-la's bad conduct on the return — Hall again sights the ships on the 30th of March — The captains now refuse to let him have the men for his journey 293-310 CHAPTER XL JOURNEY TO CAPE WEYNTON. Summer of 1867 and winter of 1868, Anxiety for the safety of the cache made iu 1866 — Hall's party sets out to vist it May 1 — Route by Gibson's Cove, Walrus Island, and Iwillik to Christie Lake — Sails raised on the sleds — Snow-blindness — Miles Lake reached — Strange Inuuits seen — The Sea of Ak-koo-lee and Point Hargrave reached — Expedients to hurry up the dogs — Cape Weynton reached — The cache changed — Retiu-n to Beacon Hill — A week's musk-ox hunt — Survey of Ships' Harbor Islands — Native superstition — Hall's purchase of supplies — Capture of a walrus — The hiring of five white men — Winter quarters 313-327 VI CONTENTS. CHAPTER XII. JOURNEY TO THE STRAIT OF FURY AND HECLA AND TO LYON'S INLET, AND FOURTH WINTER. February, 1868, to March, 1869. Hall purposes to visit the uortliem part of Mellville Peninsula — Reasons for this journey in place of one to King William's Land — The information from the natives of monument and places of white men seen there since 1863 — Purchases the few dogs still alive among the natives — His provision-list for the journey and articles of barter — Loses some of his notes by the gale — Encamps on the ice near the Ooglit Islands — Converses with the natives — Visits Parry Bay with Koo-loo-a — Finds a monument — Digs in vain for the cache — Finds the remains of a tenting-place once occupied by white men — Discovers Grinnell Lake and Brevoort River — Visits Amherst Island — Returns to Tern Island — Holds further conversations with the natives — Receives several maps drawn by the Eskimos — ^Visits Gifford River to find another tenting-place — Returns to Repulse Bay — Salmon-tishing and deer- hunts — Mutiny of one of the five white men — Loss of life — Cajiture of a second whale — Journey to Lyon's Inlet — Survey — Discharge of the four white men — Hall dries venison and prepares pemmican in his own igloo — Plans for a new sledge journey to King WiUiam's Land 331-374 CHAPTER Xni. FINAL JOURNEY TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND AND RETURN TO THE UNITED STATES. March 23, 1869, to September 26, 1869. Hall begins his final journey to King William's Laud — Route toward Pelly Bay the same with that followed in 1866 and 1867 — The cache made in 1867 reached — Safety of the stores — Deposit made for the return journey — Encamps on Lake Tep-suk-ju-a April 8 — On Augusta Isl.and, April 11 — Meets Pelly Bay natives — Peculiarities of the ice formation — Flying sledge trip to the igloos — Franklin relics — Hall's natives alarmed — Their fears (juieted — Muslc-ox hunt near Simpson's Lake — Neitchille na- tives met— Conversations with In-nook-poo-zhe-jook — More Franklin relics — En- camps on Todd's Island — Graves of Franklin's men visited near Pefier River — Graves on Todd's Island — Deep snow prevents further search — Unwillingness of the natives to remain — Return to Repulse Bay — Information from In-uook-poo-zhe- jook on the rout(! — Abundance of game from King William's Land to Rej)ulse Bay — Miisk-ox hunts — Hall's letter giving the results of this journey — Arrives at Repulse Bay — Plans of return to the United States — Occupations during June and July — Places the bone of his third whale and his musk-ox skins on the An- sell Gibbs — Sails for the United States — Hunts the bear and the deer at Whale Point — Arrives at New Bedford, September 26, 1869 — Tributes of respect — Visit to liis grave by the English Arctic Expedition of 1875 377-438 CONTENTS. Vll CHAPTER XIV. ADDITIONAL NOTES— HALL'S TWO ESKIMO FEIENDS. Hall's two Eskimo friends — Ebierbing (Joe) and Too-koo-li-too (Hannah) — Their chil- dren — Joe's cousins — The inscriptions in the cemetery at Groton, Connecticut 441-448 APPENDIXES I. Hall's Astronomical Observations 451-47.5 II. Hall's Meteorological Observations 479-550 III. Hall's Geological Collections discussed by Prof. Benj. K. Emerson, of Amherst Col- lege, Massachusetts 553-583 IV. Conversations with the Innuits, 1864, 1868, and 1869 587-611 V. Statistics furnished by U. S. Consul McDougall as to the whale fishery, and the manufacture of jute at Dundee, by the use of whale and seal oil 615-633 ERRATA. Page 35, for (Appendix) VIII read V. Page 37, for (Messrs.) Poillou read Poillon. Page 42, for whaling brig read barque. P.Tge 176, for Eggers read Eggert'a. Pasre 297, for 80° below zero read 50. ILLUSTRATIONS. STEEL ENGEAVINGS. (Executed at the U. S. Treasury Department.) Portrait of Hall (1870) Frontispiece. Page. Portrait of Sir John Franklin (from an engraving loaned by Miss Cracroft, of London) .... xxviii WOOD ENGRAVINGS, PHOTOENGRAVINGS, AND HELIOTYPES. Spoon belonging to Sir John Franklin xxiii Miniature of Franklin xxiv Sii' Martin Frobisher 7 Mr. Henry Grinnell, with autograph 26 Mr. J. C. Breevoort, with autograph 41 Harbor of New London 42 Harbor of St. John's 48 Polar Bear of Hudson's Strait 52 Moving the Tupiks 68 Snow-partridges 71 Snow-knife 73 Hall's First Igloo and Ground-plan 74 Innuit Lamp 75 Eskimo Sled 8.'-) Sek-koons (fur-scrapers) 91 Eskimo Games (ball and cu])) 9.') Playing tbo Key-low-tik 96 Key-low-tik and Kentoon 97 Dog-skin Mittens 107 Innuit Lance and Parts of the Same 119 A Walrus-Hunt 121 Walrus Head 122 Ground-plan of Village Igloo 126 (iiound-j)lan of Igloo of Sledge Journey I'M Arrowtar 13.S ILLUSTRATIONS. ix Page. Seal-skin Boots and Bear-skin Mittens 136 Ebierbing going ont Sealing 154 Innnit Harpoon-heads 169 Ivory and Bone Combs 177 Eskimo Dog 185 Too-koo-li-too going out into the Storm 206 Deer-skin Gloves 213 Eepulse Bay Kia, and Kia Ornament 216 Ar-too-a Drowned from his Kia 217 Tnnuit Tight-ropes 218 Seal-tooth Ornament for the Head 219 Ground plan of Feasting-igloo 220 Eskimo Sled 221 Hall's Sketch of Now-yam Harbor 222 The Rent Cliff 223 Aurora Sketched by Hall 230 Franklin Relics 258 Franklin Relics — Spoons and Forks 259 Bear-tooth Toggle 295 Hall's Lamp 297 Innuit Arrows 302 Bono Charm, Needle-case, Knife, Saw, and Bone Fork 304 Hall's Boat-log 324 Snow-goggles 343 Monument Built by White Men 344 Sketch of Monumental Inlet 345 Sketch of Tenting-place of White Men 352 Scraper to Deceive the Seal 352 Hall's Capture of a Whale 363 Snow Village 368 Setting out for King William's Land 378 Seal and Deer Skin Foot-gear , 380 Sabres. 390 Snow-shovel 392 Innuit Ivory Knives, Fork, and Spoon 397 Desk from Franklin's Ship, Needle-case from King William's Land 399 Innuit Stone Pot ; 408 Leaf from Hall's Note-book 409 Tablet for Covers 410 Musk-ox Horns and Ladle made from them 412 Horns of a Deer shot by Hall 413 Musk-ox Hunt 414 Hall's Grave 438 X ILLUSTRATIONS. Page. EBkimo Joe 443 Grotou, Connecticut 44(5 Ou-se-goug ( Jeannie) and Kud-lup-pa-nu-ne (cousins of Joe) 4 46, 447 Hanuali , 448 MAPS. Circumpolar Map, with explorers' names in the pocket of the volume. Part of the Chart furnished to Franklin xxvii Supposed Track of Franklin xxxii The Eecord found by McClintock in the Cairn xxxiii Circumpolar Map No. II — Geographical Discoveries since 1818 xxxviii Frobisher's Map 15 Hall's Voyages to Repulse Bay and return 55 Hall's Boat Journey, 1865 179 Hall's Boat Journey, 1836 279 Hall's Survey of Ships' Harbor Islands 321 Hall's Journey to Straits of Fury aud Hecla, 1868 346 Hall's Journey to Lyon's Inlet, 1868 367 Hall's Journey to King William's Land, 1869 386 SKETCHES OF COAST-LINE, DRAWN BY INNUITS. Armou's Sketch of Coast from Fort Churchill to Lancaster Sound 225 Ou-e-la'fi Sketch of Eepulso Bay 278 Nood-loo's Sketch of Murray Maxwell Inlet 351 Oon-ger- Ink's Sketch of Fox Channel 354 Oon-ger-luk's Sketch of Admiralty Inlet 3.56 Pa-pa-tew-a's Sketch of Lyon's Inlet 364 Papa-tew-a's Sketch of Pond's Bay. 370 In-uook-poo-zhce-jook's Sketch of King William's Laud 398 PRELIMINARY CHAPTER PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. ILlll's three Expeditions— Purchase of his Manuscripts by Congress — Resolution of THE Senate of February 6, 1877 — The three Expeditions compared — Connection OF THE First and of the Second with the Franklin Expedition — Correspondence WITH Lady Franklin — Hall's "Appeal" and Lecture in 1860 — Tables of English AND OF American explorations for the Northwest Passage and for the relief OF Franklin — Beneficial Results and estimated costs of these Expeditions, public and private, stated in a letter from Admiral Sir Leopold McClintock, R. N. — The small percentage of deaths — Arctii' Authoritiks, 1818-1860. The late Capt. Charles Francis Hall, commander of the North Polar Expedition of 187 J, United States steamship Polaris, had pre- viously made two voyages, or, as he has called them, "Expeditions," to the northern shores of America. The first of these embraced a period of two years and three months, from May 29, 1860, to September 13, 1862, furnishing the material for his " Arctic Researches," which he published in 1864 The second voyage and residence among the Eskimos occupied the longer period of five years and three months, from June 30, 1864, to September 26, 1869 ; but of this he left no narrative, becoming absorbed immediately on his return in preparing for his third voyage, that of the Polaris. On board of this vessel his sudden death occurred November 8, 1871. Under the act of Congress approved June *23, 1874, the Navy xii Preliminary Chapter. Department purchased from his family, for the sum of $15,000, the manuscripts of his several explorations, some of which were made use of by the late Admiral Davis in preparing for the Department the widely-appreciated " Narrative of the North Polar Expedition."* The larger number of the manuscripts, however, have been found to belong to the Second Expedition, and form the basis of the Narrative now prepared by the orders of the Department, to meet the call of the Senate in the resolution adopted, on the motion of Hon. A. A. Sargent, February 6, 1877. Hall's journals and notes of the years 1864 to 1869, kept gen- erally with much care, present a few blanks; chiefly because an un- broken diary was made impossible by the privations of an ill-furnished Arctic life His private correspondence, courteously loaned by his steadfast friend, Mr. J. C. Brevoort, and by the family of the late Mr. Henry Grinnell, supplements in part these deficiencies. It dis- closes also repulses experienced while seeking assistance for this sec- ond voyage which must have severely schooled his energies. His three enterprises had a common object in geographical dis- covery. The Polaris voyage, however, finds its distinctive separation from his earlier objects in its aiming at solving the problem of the Pole. In this point, and in its being in the fullest sense an expedition, and not the itinerary of a traveler with a few native attendants, it claims a much higher place than the Narrative now presented. But the journals of the years 1864-'6U exhibit a longer experience by Mr. Hall in Arctic life, and consequently with the customs, traditions, and superstitions of the Innuits than has fallen to the lot of other Arctic * The third edition of this Narrative was ordered hy Congress June 7, 1878, to be on sale under the provisions of the act of that date. This edition is exhausted. Preliminary Chapter. xiii travelers. His Second Expedition, as distinguished from the Third, will also be found to be closely connected with the First and with the course of American and English Arctic exploration during the pre- ceding twenty years ; for the two voyages of 186()-'62 and of 1864-69 were alike "Franklin Relief" Expeditions, in which Hall endeav- ored to complete the work begun by Lieutenant De Haven, Dr. E. K. Kane, of the United States Navy, and their associates, and by more than thirty English relief parties which had preceded them. Sympathy for the mysterious fate of Franklin's Expedition was universal. In Hall it kindled a spirit of enthusiasm which failed him only with his life It early became his controling idea. Through the nine years from May, 1850 when Secretary Preston's Instructions for the First Grinnell Expedition issued to Lieutenant De Haven, to the return of the English steamer Fox, he was steadily increasing his Arctic library, and devoting every spare hour to Arctic study ; and his notes and comments show his interest in all such returns from the searched region as Dr. Kae, in 1854, brought from Boothia, De Haven and Kane from Beechy Island, or McClintock from King William's Land. On the return of the officer last named, Hall urged that the explo- rations made by him and his junior officers, Hobson and Young, though eminently successful, still left much of value to be secured ; that they had been made, by necessity, in the month of May when the land was still covered with snow, and that interviews with the Eskimos had been found practicable with detached parties only. Hoping for further success in a more favorable season of the year, and believing that "as England had left the field of search, the Stars and Stripes should enter," he sailed from New London, Conn., in May, xiv Preliminary Chapter. 1860, for the most favorable northwestern point he could reach in a whaler, from which point he would make his way westward with such Eskimo companions as he could secure. To the American Geograph- ical Society he had avowed his chief object to be "to determine more satisfactorily the fate of the one hundred and five companions of Franklin known to be alive at the date of the ' Record ' brought back by McClintock." Nothing seems to prove more fully the sincerity and depth of con- victions — at times insecurely based — than this expectation of finding ofii- cers or men of that party still alive. The paper found at Point Victory in 1 859 showed that Captain Crozier had left the ships on their aban- donment, with a weakened party and with the remnant of perhaps origi- nally ill-supplied* provisions, to find his way toward the desolate region of Back's or Great Fish River. The presumption in the minds of most men was entirely against the probability of extended life in any one of the survivors named in that Record. But all difficulties in the case were overcome or lost sight of in Hall's reasonings, and in his impulse to bear relief. From inquiries of the whalers who visited Cumberland Sound, Repulse Bay, and other northern localities, he learned that the experience of some who had lived for months a^ Eskimos with the Eskimos, had not been severe; and from one of Dr. Kane's party, Mr. William Hickey, he received assurance that when he and others of that party had so lived, they had recovered from all sicknesses and maintained their health. Hall con- cluded that some of Franklin's survivors might be still enjoying a lease "See Sir John Richardson's "Polar Regions," p. 1G2; Admiral Sherard Osbom's "Career of Franklin," pp. 76, 105, 108 ; and D. Murray Smith's "Arctic Explorations," 1877, especially for the quality of Goldner's provisions. The want of pemmican itself, of which Osbom speaks, would make the support of Crozier's party almost hopeless, compelling them to drag loads too heavy for their strength. Preliminary Chapter. xv of life among that not inhospitable people, and he hoped that by his going out and living patiently among them, he could draw out through faithful interpreters, the final clue to the fate of the ships, the men, and the records of the expedition Other reasonings leading him to believe that some of Franklin's party still survived were substantially these: that no Arctic explorer had ever understood better the necessities of a good supply of fresh provisions for his men than did Sir John Franklin, and that he made provision for such necessities. In proof of this, Hall had found in the official papers that a full complement of fresh provis- ions, preserved meats, soups, and vegetables, and ten live oxen were on board the Erebus and the Terror. Further, that Franklin had told Cap- tain Martin, of the whaler Enterprise, when o& the coast of Greenland, July 22, 1845, that he had provisions for five years, and, if necessary, could make them spin out seven; and he would lose no opportunity of killing game, having already organized shooting parties. There was every reason to believe, too, that animal life was found in abundance by his men on the shores of Wellington Channel, especially in the neighborhood of Baillie Hamilton Island, and that Franklin had sent hunting parties to great distances with sledges; for the tracks of these sledges were seen six years after by Kane, De Haven, and Ommaney and Osborn. Hall could say with truth that his expectations of ren- dering relief were based on years of careful study and examination of what had been written on this subject; and his appeal was plain and strong, " Why should not attempts be renewed again and again until all the facts are known?" These and other references to the First Voyage are here made the more full, because, as has been already intimated, the same idea of xvi Preliminary Chapter. "rescue" is the key to the Second also, geographical discovery being but a subordinate motive. Hall's first voyage had been rewarded by discovery, and he was thus stimulated to return to the North. But up to the time of his preparations for the North Polar Expedition in 1870, there was probably no day in which his thoughts were not upon Franklin's men and King William's Land ; and even then his expecta- tion was to resume the search on his return from the Pole. For this problem only he declined Lady Franklin's proposal that he should go out a third time for the Records of the Expedition. The following Letter on this subject, written on her receiving in 1869 a newspaper account of some of Hall's Arctic work, shows her impartial judgment and her confidence also in his character and plans. In this connection it will be remembered that Lady Franklin, after being compelled on McClintock's return to abandon the lingering hope of her husband's safety, still held her thoughts on the recovery of the Records as the clue to the history of his last years and as establishing the claim that he was the discoverer of the Northwest Passage. The inquiries which she here makes of Hall were answered by his letter of a later date, and are met in full by the statements in Chapter XIH of this Narrative. [LETTER FROM LADY JANE FRANKLIN.] Upper Gove Lodge Kensington Gove, Ocf. 30'" 69. My dear Mr. Grinnell, I had not i-eceived. Mr Hall's report wheu I wrote to you last by Denis, or I should have had much more to say to you. This I have delayed, however, because I felt it was a moment when your mind must be fully occujjied not only with Mr Hall, but with the still nearer and more heartfelt business of overlooking all your dear son's relics and papers. — I wished also to hear the opinions of my Arctic friends on W. Hall's report ; but in this 1 have had but partial success, as at this season friends are disi^ersed, and very few at hand with whom details can be discussed. — My own impresssion is that Mr Hall has done his best with the means he had at his command ; but his statement is full of omissions and so devoid of order and dates as to leave much confusion and perijlexity in the mind. He makes no distinction between the places he visited himself, and what he saw him- self — and what he only heard of. What are the places he reallj' set foot on in K. AV. Land and the dates on which he did so ? Did he merely touch the Eastern shore, or did he go along the Southern coast by Cape Herschel, and visit the other places, where he says they finally perished ? I jiresume he did not visit Monti'eal Island, but his assertion (derived no doubt from certain Esquimaxix) is at variance with what other Esquimaux told D' Eae and afterwards McClintock, and with the con- S. Ex. 27 II XVlll Preliminary Chapter. elusions formed by Anderson, the Hudson Bay officer, previous to that period. 1 am now supposing tliat two sets of Esquimaux gave contradic- tory evidence on this point, but I j)erceive it was the same man whose name was given by Mr Hall, who gave the contradictory information to the two parties. — Is this the case, or has Df Eae misunderstood him or Hall? Who was his authority for saying that the records are buried in a vault (that is, I suppose, a hole dug for the purpose) near Point Vic- tory '? Could the Esquimaux point out the exact si)ot, and, if so, can we believe they have not opened or rifled it? Was this question put to them ? — and is there reason to suppose that these documents may exist in part in their possession ? — Most people are of opinion that they took their journals with them on their march, and that even at the last extremity, they did not throw them away, but tried to hide them ; and this may have taken place all along the march. It seem s strange, if they were buried near Pt. Victory, that the Eecord found there and brought home by McOlintock, did not notice this; — especially as it was well un- derstood, I believe, among the officers, although not openly talked about (lest the information should be betrayed to the natives) that these doc- uments were to be buried so many yards magnetic north of the cairns erected. — Again it is supposed, and I believe McClintock is of that opinion, that these vaults" may be conjectural things, by which the Esquimaux explained some leveled or paved spot which had been the site of a magnetic Observatory or shooting station. Have the Esqui- maux ever been asked if they found tin cylinders, or any other con- trivance for holding nothing but a sheet of paper, under the cairns, and what they did with them, and whether they could procure any, if hand- somely rewarded ? If another search were instituted, it should be held out to them that the production of paper or books would be more hand- somely rewarded than anything else. Does not M^ Hall believe that, if the natives had found what he calls "the vault," they would have removed everything out of it; would he have given up the search had he felt convinced that anything was to Preliminary Chapter. xix be gained by pursuing it ? — This is a question tluit has been jiut to me ; but I think Mr Hall had not the means of supporting himself in the barren island, and could get no one to accoiui)any him, or not enougli of men ; and then the new idea of the Noith Pole took possession of him and seemed to him a more worthy object of ambition. — Yet, though lie abandoned, whether from necessity or clioice, the object he had held out to himself from the beginning, he is too conscientious to say that nothing more can be done, or that he did all that man can even do ; and his declaration is, in my view of things, creditable to his candor and truthfulness ; he almost invites others to do that in which he has failed himself, — and this leads me to ask (and many are asking the same question) wlietlier anything would induce him to go again ? and, if so, whether he would consent to accompany one of the bravest and ablest of our Arctic officers, as his Second. — I would ask you to ascertain from him whether he would 'postpone his efforts to reach the Pole, for one season (he may be quite sure there is no danger of any body getting there before him) and devote a whole summer to the recovery of the jtrecious documents on King William Island, and the several adjoining places on the main-land, where he believes the last of our poor i)eople perished. The emoluments or remuneration must be such as to make it worth his while to undertake another voyage, and should be suggested by himself, so that he might start with a willing mind and be able to see that his further movements northward would be facilitated rather than checked, by joining in this final Arctic search. — In fact, he and his two Esquimaux, if he takes them with him towards the Pole, would be so far forwarded on their way when the King W? search was over. I do not enter at present into more detail, except that such an Exi^e- dition would be on a manageable but sufficient scale, composed of well- tried, trustworthy men, whether English, American, or Canadian, i. e. Hudson Bay people j and, that the funds are provided and are ample for the purpose. To apply again for Government aid seems totally out of the question. Such an appeal would not be listened to for a moment, and it is quite certain that whatever has been hitherto effected has been XX Preliminary Chapter. by private means ; viz, by your Expeditions on the one band, and my bumble efforts on the other. What I have now said about engaging Mr. Hall in a last effort will show him that I judge of him as you do yourself; viz, that he is an able, fearless, trustworthy and conscientious man ; Dear Cornelius always maintained that he was so. It remains to be seen whether in so holy and noble a cause as the rescue of those precious documents from eternal sepulture in oblivion, Mr Hall would be willing to forego the chief com- mand, in order to act as a coadjutor with all that natural influence which his experience and zeal must give him ; sharing the dangers of his com- panion and sharing his glory also. Having said this much, I must add my request that the suggestions I now make through you to Mr Hall he not made public, nor find their way into the neicspapers, as it is a part of the plan here in England to keep the contemplated Expedition a secret until fully determined on and organized, in order to avoid all obstruction, discussions and difficulty making. I am most anxious to see Mr. Hall at this moment ; how many diffi- culties could be cleared, how much increased confidence inspired, if one could but see and talk to him ! — but how is this to be effected, for I sup- pose he is too busy with his book to come to England till the iniblisher's work is done ; — otherwise I would gladly pay all his expenses to and from and during his stay here. I am sorry to hear rumors of his having got into some trouble about the man whom he sacrificed. I presume he deemed it necessary, how- ever, for the safety of himself and others. It is an awful thing to take a man's life, but it has been found justifiable upon occasions Avhen the lives of others were endangered. Witness that act of Sir John Eichard- son's, which is always quoted to his honor, when, without a moment's warning, he shot down the half-breed hunter, who was advancing quickly in his strength toward himself and Hepburn, both enfeebled by starva- tion, in order to sacrifice and feed upon them. Sir Leopold McClintock is home preparing a third edition, (which has been called for by his publishers) of the Fox Voyage. He thinks Preliminary Chapter. xxi himself most fortunate iu anticipating the discovery by the Esquimaux of the traces, as he succeeded iu doing in seven distinct localities in King William Land. — McClintock thinks the leading article in the Tribune gives a fair estimate of what he has done ; in general, Hall's researches quite confirm those made by himself, i have come to the end of my second sheet, and dare not take a third. Tour faithful & affectionate friend JAKE FEANKLIN REPLY. \_Confidential, with the exception that Lady Frankliu can be informed of the substance of thi; letter.— C. F. H.] Cincinnati, Dec 14'" 18G9. Mr. Grinnell Dear Sir: Time and again have I taken in hand the subject matter of Lady Franklin's Letter, for the object of giving full answer to it ; but in vain. I can say in truth that ever since my arrival in the country from my return fi'om my late five years voyage and travels in the Arctic Eegions, 1 have not had two hours to myself in Avhich I could sit down and not be interrupted many times. I despair, at present, of getting the time to answer (as I would like) the letter referred to; for I am bufcily flying here and there on Lecture tours. Lecturing is a curse to my soul, for I am far from being that way inclined, and yet I have had to pursue it and am still head and ears engaged in it. Just as soon as I can get out of the uncon- genial business, I shall do so ; and then I do hope I can get at least suflBcient time to apologize to j-ou and other friends for the apparent long neglect. This much I must say, that, for years, I have determined to undertake an Ex- pedition to the North Pole so soon as I should become satisfied that there could be no siu:vivor of Sir John Franklin's Expedition. I expect soon toapply to Con- gress for aid in my purposed North Pole Expedition. In case of not securing the necessary aid from Congress or otherwise for that Expedition (to commence next spring,) I should then feel to do whatever I could to favor personally the noble asph-ations of Lady Franklin: parenthetically let it be said, that no one should ask of me to accept a subordinate position in an Arctic Expedition. If McClin- tock and myself be Lady Franklin's chosen ones, we could be Co-Commanders and nothing less. xxii Preliminary Chapter. As for pay I should ask iiotbiDg. My faithful Frank Lailer, I know, wonld be glad to accompany us. He will go wherever I desire, and certainly I will feel glad to have him with me whenever I may go to the Arctic Eegions. Joe and Hannah, my Esquimaux Interpreters, I tJiink, would accompany us also. They send love to you & family. Yours ever C. F. HALL. P. S. Whether I go or not on the proposed English Expedition to King W""s Land, I feel to do all I can in facilitating its purposes; and will, therefore, communi- cate such important matter as I have Required in the North, so soon as I can be relieved from the pressure upon my time. The promise involved in the last of the preceding lines was ful- filled at as early a date as was found practicable. On the lOtli of January, 1871, he forwarded to Lady Franklin two MSS., titled "Sir John Franklin, with notes of my voyage of 1864 to '69." The extracts which follow from letters accompanying this packet, will confirm what has been said as to his desire to go out even a third time for the Records : * * * My special respects to Miss Cracroft. I trust I shall be able to send you other matter relating to my King William's Land Sledge Journey, and sucli information as will be of use to any one who may make a Journey to King W. Land. * * * Why is it that I am not still following up that subject? Is it finished ? Can more be done in gaining intelligence of that most important of all Arctic Expeditions? To the first question the answer cannot be satisfactory, for I hardly know, myself, why I was led off from that almost holy mission to which I have devoted about twelve years of my life, and w^ell on to eight of these in the icy regions of the North. What burned within mj^ soul like a living fire all the time, was the full faith that I should find some survivors of Sir John's memorable Expedition living among the natives, and that I Avould be the instrument in the hand of heaven, of their salvation. But when I heard the sad tale from living wit- nesses in the spring of 18G9, how wickedly many survivors in the fall of 1S4S had been abandoned and suffered to die, my faith, till then so strong, was shaken, and idtimately was extinguished. As to the Eecords, I believed they had been care- fully buried on King William's Land before the Erebus and Terror were aban- doned; and, that if no survivor was found, at least those Records might be recov- ered. * * * God willing, I will nuike two more voyages to the North, — one for Preliminary Chapter. XXlll the discovery of the regions to and about the Pole, and the other to obtain the records of Sir Johti's JExpedition, and to obtain other information than what I already possess relating to it. Had I failed in getting my Country interested in fitting out an Expedition for making Polar discoveries, as I told you. I would have most certainly (Z>. V.) been ready for the King Win's Land Voyage. As the matter now stands, I have much reason to hope that the North Polar Expedition I have the honor to command, will accomplish its object and be back to the States in 30 months from the time of leaving say from 1st of June next.* * The search for the Records has not been wholly abandoned even at this late date. The cruises of the Pandora (now the Jeanette, of the Polar Expedition of 1879, under command of Lieutenant De Long, IT. S. N.) made by Capt. Allen Young in 1875 and 1876 had this search for one of their objects. June 19, 1878, an expedition under Lieutenant Schwatka, U. S. A., was sent out firom New York by Morison & Brown for the same object. This expedition proposed to remain on the field of search later in the summer following than Hall found himself able to do in 1869. Taking with them Eskimo Joe as guide and interpreter, and a force of armed white men, they may possibly secure something of value of those Records, the recovery of which has been so long desired by England and by the world. Captain Barry, who took oiit Lieutenant Schwatka in the Eothen, had received on a previous voyage information from the Neitchille natives which jprompted the present expedition. He had brought home with him also a Franklin relic, the history of which is marked under the annexed drawing. Messrs. Morison & Brown presented it to Miss Cracroft, through the U. S. Naval Observatory. SPOON BELONGING TO SIR JOHN FRANKLIN BROUGHT FROM REPULSE BAY BY CAPT. BARRY, OF THE WHALER A. HOUGHTON, IN 1877, FORWARDED TO MISS SOPHIA CRACROFT, LONDON. THE MENDING DONE BY THE ESQUIMAUX. xxiv Preliminary Cliapter. Full evidence is thus found in Hall's papers, especially in that private correspondence which best discloses impulses and purposes, that his "Rescue and Research" was the impulse not of a humane feeling only, but of such feeling exercised towards those whom he con- sidered heroes in their objects as well as in their sufferings. It grew out of his thoughts of men who had been fighting nature for objects which had enlisted very noble minds; — enticing fiom his home a Franklin for the fourth time, and even in his sixtieth year. Hall's own desire for participation in the work of search was quickened by the fact that every Relief Expedition except McClintock's had erred in its line of search, until "the pursuit was now ended," as John Barrow and others wrote him, " where it should have been begun." It does not seem so strange, then, that he should at times have spoken of him- self as " called " to do something in the work of relief on which no one else was entering. To go back to his first appeal, issued for him to the citizens of Cincinnati in 1860, is to cite what in one form or another disclosed his feelings throughout the whole remainder of his life. The appeal read as follows : This is to memorialize all lovers of Man aud of Geogra- raphy, History, and Science to co-operate by all methods and means in their poAver, to facilitate and assist our fellow country- man, Charles Francis Hall of Cincinnati, Ohio, in the formation of, and fitting- out an American Expedition, in search of survivors of Sir John Franlvlin's Exploring party, consisting of l.JS per- sons, only 27 of whom are known to be dead. Secondly, for satisfactorily settling and comi)leting the history of the last Franklin Plxpcdition ; and thirdly, to promote and benefit the cause of Geogra- l)hy, Navigation, Natural History and Science. Preliminary Chapter. xxv Such an Expedition with proper vessels, with competent and experienced Commander, OiTicers and Crew, with a complete outfit and provision for from two to three years, cruise, to embark from an Eastern port of the United States of America, and proceed via. Davis Straits, Baffin's Bay, Lancaster Sound, and Bar- rows Strait; thence from the North coast of Boothia to commence the Search, ex- tending it to King William's Land, and the adjacent regions, until a thorough and satisfactory investigation shall have been made of all that portion of the Arctic World ; and the humanitarian object attained of discovering some survivor of the lost companions of Sir John Franklin, or of ascertaining the ultimate fate of the Members of that Expedition, who, uj) to this day remain unaccounted for; being- no less than one hundred and eleven souls, whose history, the loud voice of mankind, from all generous natures, demands shall not remain forever shrouded in oblivion, while energetic intelligence and American enterprise can hoi^e to rescue a single survivor, or furnish the solution of their ultimate histor3^ This appeal w^as indorsed by a number of the public men of Ohio, among whom were Hon. E. B. Hayes, the present Executive of the United States ; the Governor of the State, Hon. William Dennison ; Hon. S. P. Chase ; and the Mayor of Cincinnati, now Gov. R. M. Bishop. At the meeting which it secured. Hall exhibited maps and charts of the Arctic, discoveries made by Sir John Franklin, Dr. Kane, De Haven, and McClintock ; with those of Ross, Parry, Back, Dease and Simpson, Richardson, Rae, McClure, Kellet, Collinson, Belcher, and others — names which carry us back to the revival, under Sir John Barrow, of English exploration for the Northwest Passage to Asia. The study of such explorations from even a much earlier date had made Hall intelhgent in this field ; it now maintained his enthusiasm. As introductory, therefore, to the history of his purposes, and of his work in this Second Expedition, some Tabular Statements and historical Maps have been prepared, in order to present, in con- nection with the now renewed public interest in Arctic Exploration, XXVI Preliminary Chapter. The Record in brief; — I. Of English and American* explorations for the Northwest Passage from the year 1818 to 1845, when Sir John Frankhn's Expedi- tion left England. II. Of the Franklin Relief Expeditions, Enghsh and American, from 1848 to 1860, the year of Hall's First Expedition. TABLE No. I. 1. Naval expeditions for discovering the Northwest Passage, 1818 to 1845. Commanders. Vessels. Positions reached north and west. Year. I. Capt. D. Buchan Lieut. John Franklin II. Commander John Ross. Lieut. W. E. Parry III. Lieut. W. E. Pany Lieut. M. Liddon .. IV. Capt. W. E. Parry. Capt. G. F. Lyon.. V. Capt. W. E. Parry Commander H. P. Hoppner . . VI. Capt. G. F. Lyon VII. Capt. F. W. Beechy VIII. Cai)t. John Ross Lieut. James C. Ross. Dorothea . Trent .... Isabella . . . Alexander . Hecla Griper Fury . Hecla Hecla . Fury . . . IX. Capt. George Back. Griper Blossom . . . Victory Terror. >Long. 11° W. ; lat. 80° 37' N. \ Lancaster Sound; long. 84 W.; ( ^ lat. 76° 54' N. ( rWest coast of Melville Island;"] i long. 113° 48' 22" W. ; lat. } [ 74° 47' 19" N. J Whyte Inlet, Fury and Hecla ^ Strait; long. 84° 52' W. ; lat. }> i. 70° 12' N. j ) Prince Regent's Inlet; long. 92' ) ) 18' W. ; lat. 74° 28' 13" N. I ) Rowe's Welcome ; long. 89° 1' ) I 44" W. ; lat. 65° 20' N. ( Bering's Straits to Point Bar- } row, 126 miles east of Icy Cape. C West coast of Prince Regent's" Inlet and of Boothia and north coast of King Willi.im's Land ; long. 99° W. ; lat. 70° 5' 17" N. Frozen lat. 6i I Strait; long. 83°40'W. ; ) w° 47' N. ( 1818 1818-'19 1819-'20 18?.l-'23 1824-'25 1824 1825-'28 1829-'33 1830-'37 * For some curious notices of American voyages for the Passage, made in 1753, 1754, 1772, and possibly as early as 1639, see the close of this chajiter. \ iJTT. ARCTIC REGIOHS 1845, 'ting a ayy t^t/u Ouir* lufipUmd to Va Fgaa kli a. E^ptdidcm . -ev- +--^v {;M — 1 — ?^ "^^ ^ ■««, \ °'"'' ^ [(•KOM' rW. NW PASSAGE AND THE SEAKCH fOH SIR JOHN KH-AM- Preliminary Chapter. xxvii (2.) EXPLORATIONS BY LAND. 1819-1822. — Capt. John Franklin, with Dr. ,1. Eichardson, Lieutenants Back and Hood; land journey from York Factory, west side of Hudsou's Bay, to the Coppermine Eiver, and from its mouth east to Point Turnagaiu, hit. 08° 19' N., long. 109° 25', a distance of 550 miles. Whole journey 5,500 miles (see for this route Circumpolar Pocket Map). 1825-1827. — Sir J. Franklin explored, the coast from the mouth of Mackenzie's Eiver westward to Eeturn Eeef, long. 148° 52', lat. 70° 20' N. ; Dr. Eich- ardson, of the same expedition, coasting from the mouth of the Mackenzie east to the mouth of the Coppermine. (Pocket Map.) 1833. — Capt. George Back, in search of Sir John Eoss, discovered the Great Fish Eiver, descended it, and explored the coast eastwardly as far as long. 94° 58' W., lat. 68° 13' N. 1837-1839. — Messrs. Dease and Simpson, in the service of the Hudson Bay Com- pany, explored the coast from Mackenzie Eiver westward to Point Barrow, and eastward from the Coppermine to Castor and Pollux Eiver, long. 93° 7' W. This exploration supplemented Beechey's, Franklin's, and Eichardson's coastings, and thus completed the examination of the coast line from Bering's Strait to long. 93° 7' W. What remained, therefore, in the problem of the Northwest Pas- sage was to connect Parry's furthest Westing of 113° 48' 22", made in 18 If^, either with Bering's Strait or southward with Simpson's Strait. To seek tlie passage westward to Bering's Strait from Mel- ville Island seemed to the Admiralty at that day a loss of time in con- sequence of the unusual magnitude and apparently fixed state of the ice which had been observed by Parry off Cape Dundas. But of the western entrance to Simpson's Strait, Sir John Franklin was accustomed to say, "If I could only get down there my Avork is done ; it is all plain sailing to the westward." In this buoyant hope he left England May 19, 1845, commanding the last expedition which XXVUl Preliminary Chapter. has had the discovery of the Northwest Passage as its direct object His latest dispatch was dated, "Whale Fish Islands, west Coast of Greenland, July 12, 1845." His ships were last seen July 26, of that year, by the whaler Prince of Wales — moored to an iceberg, lat. 74° 48' N., long. QQ"" 13' W. THE EXPEDITION. Officers. Vessels. Positions reached North and West. Year. Capt. Sir J. Franklin, Com- mander J. Fitzjames, Lieut. G. Gore. Capt. F. E. M. Crozier, Lieut. E. Little. Erebus, 370 tons, screw. Terror, 340 tons, screw. I. Up Wellington Channel, 150 miles, ~ to lat. 77° N., long. 990 W. II. Wintered at Beochey Island, lat. 74^ 43' 28" N., long. 91° 39' W. III. Thence west, and probably through ) Peel Souud, tolat. 70° 05' N., long. 98° 23' W., where the ships were abandoned April 22, 1848 ; one of them drifting south. 1845 to 1848 No tidings having been received from Franklin at the close of nearly three years, Eelief expeditions began to be sent out from England. The chief of these are stated in the following tables. The lines of search and the chief localities examined in the hope of find- ing the lost expedition may be traced on Circumpolar Map No. I. (Pocket.) The tables have been arranged to show that the search for Franklin was carried on by expeditions whicli, within about the same periods, visited the Northern coasts, some from Bering Straits and others from Baffin's Bay; — supplemented by land explorations chiefly along the middle section of the Continent. The Private Expeditions closed the search (Table 4) by McClintock's voyage of the Fox. ■*T^A^yA^t/n^ /€&€e/n^iC^^y. ~^€e,*>t<;^'^lZ^vt€d^*J? IIiinMui, Kiitinninu \- rrinliuii. Preliminary Chapter. XXIX TABLE No. II. English and American Expeditions for the Relief of Sir John Franklin, 1848-1859. 1. FEOM THE "WEST THROUGH BERING'S STRAITS. Years. Vessels. Commanders. Line of search and coasts examined. ' Through Bering's Strait, be- yond Point Barrow, to lat. 73° 51' N., long. 163° 48' W., 1848-'52 Plover c Commander Moore ) Captain Mao"uire ■with a boat expedition from < the Plover up the Mackenzie River and east to Cape Ba- thurst; Mr. R. Sheddon, in his yacht " Nancy Dawson," ^ rendering assistance. ' Discovered Herald Island, and 1848-'49 Herald Captain Kellett visited and named a part of the land reported by Wran- I gell. ' Coast of North America from Bering's Strait to Dease Strait and coast of Banks Land. Investigator aban- doned June 3, 1853, in the bay of Mercy on the north 1850-'55 ( Enterprise ^ luvestigator Captain Collinson Commander McClure ; coast of Banks Land. Com- mander McClure crossed on the ice to Dealy Island to the Resolute and Intrepid, and returned across the Atlan- tic to England. Parliament gave £10,000 to him and his officers. Supply-ships : 1851-'52 Doedalus ..... Captain Wellesley 1853 Amphi trite Rattlesnake Captain Frederick 1853 Commander Trollope 1853 1854 Diligence Trincomalee Lieutenant Elliott ........ Captain Houston . . .... XXX Preliminary Chapter. 2. FEOM TIIE EAST THROUGH BAFFIN'S BAT. Preliminary Chapter. XXXI Years. Vessels. ^ „ -, Line of search and coasts Commanders. examined. 1 ' Shores of Wellington Channel ; landed stores at Cape Eiley ; retiirned with part of Mc- 1853 \ PhcEiiix Commander Inglefield Chire's command ; Lieuten- i Breadalbane Lieutenant Fawckner ant Bellot, of France, per- ished in the ice August 17, 1 1 1853 ; the ship lost at Cape L Riley August 21, 1853. 1853-'55 Advance Dr. Kane, IT. S. N ^ Second Grinnell Expedition, J Smith's Sound. Lat.82027'N. f Returned to England from 1854 \ Phoenix ^ Talbot Commander Inglefield Commander Jenkins J Beechey Island with part of 1 Belcher's and McClure's com- l mands. 1855 \ Release Lieutenant Hartsteno, U. S. N.. Lieutenant Simms, U. S. N ' Ships sent out for the relief of Dr. Kane; found him on his return at Lievely or God- f Arctic havn, Greenland. (3) LAND EXPEDITIONS. 1848-'49. — Sir John Richardson and Dr. Rae searched the coasts of North America between the Mackenzie and the Coppermine Rivers. (Dr. Rae, under the Hudson Bay Company in 1846-'47, made a voyage of discovery from Fort Churchill to the Gulf of Boothia, surveying the Gulf to Fury and Hecla Strait on the east and Lord Mayor's Bay of Sir James Ross on the west, determining there an isthmus.) 1849. — Dr. Rae reached Cape Krusenstern. 1849-'51.— Lieut. W. J. S. PuUen, from the Plover. (See table No. II for Boat Expedition.) 1851. — Dr. Rae: coasts of WoUaston Island and east coast of Victoria Land to lat. 70° N., long. 101° W. 1853-'54. — Dr. Rae: coasts of Boothia Isthmus; obtained relics of Franklin's Expedition ('rewarded by vote of Parliament). 1855. — J. Anderson and J. G. Stewart : west coast of Adelaide Peninsula. XXXll Preliminary CJtapter. (1.) PRIVATE EXPEDITIONS ORGANIZED UNDER SUBSCRIPTIONS BY SOCIETIES, BT LADY FRANK- LIN, CAPTAIN ROSS, LIEUTENANTS McCLINTOCK, YOUNG, AND OTHERS. Years. Vessels. Commanders. Line of search and coasts examined. ' A portion of Cornwallis Island. [Dr. E. A. Goodsir, brother of 1850-'5l { Felix Sir Jolm Eoss Commander Pliillips . .-..-. .-.. the surgeon of the Erebus, in the m haler Advice, in 1849, J Marv ... f *-'^ "'^j .•-••• -.•«« also searched Bafiflu's Bay , and Lancaster Sound.] Found Barrow Strait and Prince Eegent's Inlet blocked with ice; coasts of Prince of Wales Island and North 1850 Prince Albert Commander Forsyth . 1 1 1 Somerset. ' Shores of Prince Eegent's Inlet 1851-'52 Prince Albert y Captain Kennedy and Bellot Straits. Lieuten- ant Bellot, of France, was J Lieutenant Bellot \ ^ second in command. ' Wostenholme, Whale, Smith's, Jones, and Lancaster Sounds, and Bafidn's Bay. 1852 Isabel CoinniandtT In^'^lelield .... .. < [Captain Kennedy, in 1653, sailed in the Isabel for Be- rings Straits ; voyage aban- . doned at Valparaiso.] Completed survey of North Somerset, Prince of Wales Island, Boothia-Felix Pen- insula, and King William's 1857-'59 Fox Captain McClintook < Laud, finding many relics of Franklin's Expedition, and obtaining at Point Victory the only Eecord as yet recov- l, ered. This last expedition, under McClintock, brought from the cairn at Point Victory, on King WilHam's Land, a tin cyhnder containing the ■n po o 3 > o 3D > r Z M n r Z H o o ?? ■n m o -n > ^^'^-t/^ ci^<^ X.-^Jlj. "^-<<> (yiy~SL. "-^ CD CD e-»- CD ^ P ^ p^ p CD D 3 .F -> o <^ o . 2 en — i c4- CD :^ ?;• O 2- ?V ~ S^ — = CD CT' ^■§ ^. 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CD O CD p OJ C 2- a p ^- ^ CD CD p 3 3 a CD P- tH O 3 £^ CD CO cr c- o: rO: a- a <3 p» CD CD CD ■73 P pt o CD 3 ^. p' ^ p ;S '^ B CD ^ CD p C» 3 '^ C CD^* O Cu P^^ c 5 a: ^ CD hO 2 c CD ft S. — ■1 CD f-i CD 3 2- CD p !^ orq 3 □ CO C = CD CD 3 O^ CI- Gj CD crq CD P f 2 §- i 3 CD 2! £- CO p- CD (^ ^ P CD CD S CD CD CD 3 b> CD 3, tn Ct' CD P P CDn 3 ' you, I there- fore beg leave to solicite your favor in behalf of myself and many other merchants of this place. Notwithstanding the repeated attempts of Gentlemen in England to discover the Northwest Passage without success, yet there has appeared among us a spirit to luidertake that noble design, which if effected Avill redound to the honour of your province and to the advantage of us the undertakers. Preliminary Chapter. xliii By the inclosed papers, over which you will be pleased to cast your eye, you will iierceive that last year we had intended to pnt our design in execution, but by the extremity of the winter and other accidents it was postponed to the next year, at which time, as we have bought a vessel and all other material, and engaged a navigator and mariners here, we shall proceed in the affair, and des- patch the vessel from here the latter end of March, and are in great hopes, by avoiding mistakes of former attempts, and pursuing, as we think, more i^roper measures, to be able to effect the discovery of the passage, or, at least, put it out of doubt whether there is one or no. We have been the more encouraged in this attempt by the consideration that, in case our search for the passage should be fruitless, we might strike out a lucrative trade with the coast of Labrador; but we, to our great surprise, are informed we are like to be deprived of the proposed trade by means of a scoundrel of a parson, one James Sterling, who last sum- mer took his passage to London, and there represented the advantage of the trade to the Labrador coast in such a light to Messrs. Hanbury, Buchanan, and others, that it is said they have applied to the Crown for an exclusive patent. This same Sterling, who is a Church of England minister at Newtown, Md., was concerned with us in the original undertaking, and subscribed to bear part of the expense ; but after he had by frequent conversations extracted from the person we chiefly depend upon for executing the design, all or chief part of the intelligence that he could give, he has been base enough to endeavour to circum- vent us. As a proof of that I assert, I here enclose his original letter, wrote with his own hand, to Mr. Benjamin Franklin. We have also here our paper of sub- scription for the carrying on of the undertaking, signed by the said Sterling; notwithstanding which, as I said before, he made a voyage to London, and for his discovery and the proposals he laid before the above Gentlemen, he has, though a parson, been rewarded with a collectorship of the customs at the head of the bay. We conceive ourselves very ill used by this false brother ; have there- fore presented a petition to His Majesty, which comes herewith, praying that no patent for an exclusive trade be granted, which is humbly submitted to your consideration, and I am desired to request that you will please to get it presented if you judge it will answer any good end. The expense attending the sollicitation, &c., I will take care of, with thanks to discharge. Your kind interposition in our behalf will confer a favor on many of the most considerable merchants of this place, and parcicularly on Your most obedient humble servant, WILL. ALLEN. xliv Preliminary Chapter, A VOYAGE FROM VIRGINIA 1772. The Gentlemen's Magazine, published in London, November, 1772, says: By a letter from James Wilder, captain of the Diligence, fitted out by sub- scription in Virginia Avitli a view to the discovery of the long sought for North- west Passage, it appears by the course of the tides there is a passage, but that it is seldom or never open, and he believes impassable. He sailed as high as 69° 11' and discovered a large bay before unknown. The American Quarterly Review of 1828 refers to this voyage; also, Scoresby, in his Account of the Arctic Regions, and Macpherson, in his Annals of Commerce, vol. iii. Contributions in sums of £5 and upAvard were made for it in New York. A VOYAGE REPORTED TO HAVE BEEN MADE IN 1639 FROM BOSTON. Hall had notes of a strangely-reported expedition from Boston in 1639, against which the Viceroys of New Spain and Peru were said to have dispatched Admiral de Fonte. These notes will be found in Jefferys' work already referred to. Snow's History of Boston treats the story of the Admiral as a myth, made up by the Magnalia. But Ellis, in his Voyage of the Dobbs and California, says : It is not at all impossible that either to this, or some other Exiiedition un- dertaken from Boston, the present Hudson's Bay Company owe that Discovery which produced their Charter, and put them in Possession of those Places in that Bay, in which they have Settlements at present. Mr Jeremie, who was Governor at I'ort Nelson while it was in the Hands of the French, and who without doubt, had better Opportunities of knowing the Matters of which he writes than most other People, gives us this account of the Matter. He says, that one M: de Groise- leiz, an inhabitant of Canada, a bold and enteri)rising man and one who had trav- elled much in those parts, pushed his Discoveries at length so far, tliat ho readied the Coasts of Hudson's Bay, from the French Settlements by Land. Upon his Eeturn, he prevailed upon some of his Countrymen at Quebeck to fit out a Bark for perfecting this Discovery by Sea ; which being done, and he landing uj)on Preliminary Chapter. xlv the Coast where he apprehended uo European had been before, was amazed in the very Depth of Wiutei, lo hear that some of his Oomiiany had discovered an English settlement, as they were i^leased to call it near Port Nelson. He went thither with a Design to attack it ; but at his Arrival found it a poor miserable Cottage covered with Tiu-f, in which were half a Dozen half starved Wretches, without Arms, and v.'ithout Strength to use them if they had had any. These People told him that they were Part of a Ship's Crew from Boston, that they vrere set on Shore to look for a Place, where the Shii) to which they belonged might Winter ; and that the next Morning the Ice drove the Ship out of the Port, Avhich they never saw more. As we have no Date to this Eelation, it is imi)ossible to say whether it was that Ship from Boston mentioned in de Fonte's Account or not; but if it was, and the Crew perished as very probably they might in this Inhospitable Country, it affords a clear and easy Solution of that, otherwise un- answerable Difficulty, as to Captain Shai)ley's making such a Voyage, and so considerable a Discovery, without its coming to be known either in N. England, or in Old. But if we should be wrong in this" Conjectui'e, it would still remain an incontestible Proof that some Attempts were made from Boston, when they were laid aside and forgot at London & Bristol. [The voyage was probably for trading purposes only.] PRINCIPAL ENGLISH ARCTIC PUBLICATIONS BETWEEN THE YEARS 1818 AND 1860. Hall's journals and correspondence show that he had access to the larger number of the following-named authorities. It appears also, in his notes and by a letter from Mrs. Hall, that his library — a total loss on his Polaris voyage — included many of them ; some pre- sented and others loaned to him by his New York friends. He had specially noted the " Record of Auroral Phenomena" observed by Arc- tic voyagers from 1746 to 1856, compiled by the late Peter Force, of Washington. [Smithsonian Contributions, vol. viii, 1856.] The list of authorities which follows includes Hall's volumes and others consulted in preparing this chapter. xlvi Preliminary Chapter. I. Chief Arctic Anthorities from the revival of Arctic exploration, 1818 to 1845. Barrow, Sir John. *'A Chronological history of voyages undertaken chiefly for the purpose of discovering a jST. E., N. W., or Polar Passage between the Atlantic and the Pacific. 8°. London, 1818." [This volume contains a synopsis of the voyages made from the early periods of Scandinavian na\"i- gation to the revival of the search for the passage under Buchan and Boss, 1818. The chief voyages of modern dates summarized are those of Colum- bus (1492), the Cabots (1497), the Cortereals (1502), Cartier (1534), WU- loughby (1553), Burroughs (155G), Frobisher (1576-'78), Pet and Jackman (1580), Gilbert (1583), Davis (1585), Barents (1594-'97), Jas. Hall (IGll) Hudson (1607-'10), Bylot and Baffln (1016), Luke Fox (1031), James (1631) Middleton (1741), Hearne (1769-'72), Phipps (1773), Cook (1779), Mackenzie (1789), Kotzebue (1815-'18), John Boss (1818), Buchan (1818).] Barrington, Hon. D. The possibility of approaching the North Pole asserted with an Appendix by Col. Beaufoy. 8°. London, 1818. Buchan, Capt. D. Voyage of discovery towards the N. Pole performed in H. M, Ships Dorothea and Trent in 1818; edited in 1843 by Captain Beechey R. N. (Lieut, on the Trent in 1818). Boss, Capt. John, E. N. A A'oyage of discovery made under orders of the Ad miralty in her Majesty's Ships Isabella and Alexander for the purpose of exploring Baffin's Bay and enquiring into the ]irobability of a N. W. passage 1818. 40. Loudon, 1819. Fisher, A. Journal of a voyage to the Arctic Eegions in 1818, in H. M. S. Alex ander. 8°. London, 1819. Scoresby, W., jun. An account of the Arctic Eegions, with a history and descrij) tion of the Northern Whale Fishery. 2 vols. 8°. London, 1820. Parry, Capt. W. E. Journal of a voyage for the discoverj^ of a N. W. Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, 1819-'21, in her Majesty's Ships Hecla and Griper. 4°. London, 1821. Von Wrangell, Baron F. Narrative of an Expedition to the Polar Sea in 1820. Translated by Col. Sabine. Fisher, A. Journal of a voyage of discovery to the Arctic Eegions in H. M. S. Hecla and Griper in the years 1819-'20. 8°. London, 1821. Journal of a second voyage for the discovery of a North West passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific in his Majesty's Ships Fury and Hecla, 1821-'23. 40. London, 1824. Preliminary Chapter. xlvii Lyon, G. F. The private Journal of Capt. G. F, Lyon of H. M. S. Ilecla during the recent voyage of discovery under Capt. Parry, 1821-'23. 12°. Lon- don, 1824. [Contains much of ethuological interest.] Franklin, Sir John. Narrative of a Journey to the shore of the Polar Sea in the years 1819-'22. 4°. London, 1823. Parry, Capt. W. E. Journal of a third voyage for the discovery of a N. W. pas- sage, 1824-'25 : H. M. Ships Hecla and Fury. 4°. London, 1826. Lyon, Capt. G. F. A brief Narrative of an unsuccessful attempt to reach Eepulse Bay through Sir Thomas Eoe's Welcome in H. M. S. Griper in 1824. 8°. London, 1825. Franklin, Capt. John. Narrative of a 2d Expedition to the shores of the Polar Sea, including an account of a detachment to the Eastward by John Eich- ardson, 1825-'27. 4°. London, 1828. Beechey, Capt. W. F., E. N. Narrative of a voyage to the Pacific and Bering's Strait to cooiierate with the Polar expedition (Franklin's 2d land journey) in H. M. Ship Blossom, 1825-'28. 8°. London, 1831. Eoss, Cai^t. John. Narrative of a second voyage in search of a N. W. Passage, and of a residence in the Arctic regions during the years 1829-'33, includ- ing the Eeports of James C. Eoss and the discovery of the N. Magnetic Pole. 4°. London, 1835. Parry, W. E. Narrative of an attempt to reach the N. Pole in boats fitted for the purpose and attached to H. M. S. Hecla in the year 1827. 4°. London, 1828. Lat. reached, 82° 43'. (The Spitzbergen route.) Back, Capt. Geo. Narrative of the Arctic Land Expedition to the Mouth of the Great Fish Eiver and along the shores of the Arctic Ocean in the years 1833-'35. 4°. London, 1836. King, E., M. D. Narrative of a journey to the shores of the Arctic Ocean under Capt. Back in 1833-'35. Back, G. Narrative of an Expedition in H. M. S. Terror; undertaken witli a view to Geographical discoveries on the Arctic shores, 1836-'37. 8°. London, 1838. Simpson, Thomas. Narrative of the Discoveries on the N. Coast of America effected by the Officers of the Hudson's Bay Comi^any during the years 1836-'39. 8o. London, 1843. [An account of these, communicated to E. Geog. Soc'y by Governor PeUy, of the Hudson Bay Co., in E. Geog. Soc'y Journal, vol. viii, 1838.] xlviii Preliminary Chapter. II. Chief Englisli and French Arctic piihlications issued between the years 1845 and 18C0. Barrow, Sir John. Voyages of Discovery aud research within the Arctic regions from the year 1818 to 1845. 8°. London, 184C. Eae, Dr. John. Narrative of an Expedition to the Shores of the Arctic Sea in 1846 and 1847. 8°. London, 1850. Kichardson and Eae. Journal of a Boat Voyage in search of Sir J. Franklin in 1848. 2 V. 8°. London, 1851. Goodsir, E. A. An Arctic Voyage to Baffin's Bay and Lancaster Sound in search of friends with Sir J. Franklin, in 1849. 8°. Loudon, 1850. The Franklin Expedition. Considerations on Measures for the discovery and Belief of our absent adventurers in the Arctic regions. Londou, 1850. Snow, W. P. Voyage of the Prince Albert in search of Sir J. Franklin in 1850. 8°. London, 1851. Kennedy ,*Wm. A short Narrative of the second Voyage of the Prince Albert, 1851. 8°. Sutherland, P. C, M. D. Journal of a Voyage in Baffin's Bay and Barrow Straits performed in the years 1850-'51 by H. M. S. Lady Franldin and Sophia under Capt. AV. Penny in search of the Missing Ships Erebus and Terrcr. 2 vols. 8°. London, 1852. Bellot, J. E. Journal d'uu Voyage aux mers polaires execute par Lieut, de Vais- seau de la Marine Fran§aise, J. E. Bellot, a la recherche de Sir J. Franklin en 1851-'52. 8°. Paris, par M. Julien Lemer. Memoirs of, with Journal. 2 v. 8°. London, 1855. Eevised by M. de la Eoquette : Soc. de Geograi)hi6 de Paris. Belcher, Capt., Sir E. Tlie last of the Arctic Voyages : the Expedition in H. M. S. Assistance, 1852-'54. 2 v. 8°. London, 1855. Seeman, Berthold. Narrative of the Voyage of H. M. S. Herald, 1845-'51, under Capt. H. Kellett. 8°. London, 1853. Inglefleld, Commander E. A. A Summer Search for Sir John Franklin. 8°. London, 1853. Kane, Elisha Kent, IT. S. N. Access to an Open Polar Sea. 8°. New York, 1853. \j. S. Grinnell Expedition in search of Sir John Franklin. 8°. New York, 1853. Arctic Explorations. The Second Grinnell Expedition in search of Sir John Franklin, 1855. 2 v. 8°. Philadelphia, 1850. Preliminary Chapter. xlix Kane, Elisha Kent, U. S. IsT. Eeport to Hon. Sec'y Navy of the Voyage of the Advance ; Sec'y Dobbin's Eeport to Congress, 1853. Astronomical Observations in the Arctic Eegions. 4°. 1860. Smith- sonian Contributions, vol. 12. IMeteorological Observations in the Arctic Eegions. 4°. 1860. Smith- sonian Contributions, vols. 11 and 12. De Haven, Lieut. Edwin J. Instructions to, from Hon. W. B. Preston, Sec'y Navy, for his command of the Advance and Eescue, in Eeport of Sec'y Navy for 1850-'51. His report to Hon. W. A. Graham in Sec. Navy's Eeport for 1851-'52. Hartstene, Lieut. H. J., U. S. N. Eeport of the cruise of the Eelease and the Arctic in search of Dr. Kane ; in Eeport of Hon. Sec'y Navy for 1855-'56, Markham, C. E., Sec. E. G. Socy, Franklin's footsteps ; a sketch of Greenland along the shores of which his Expedition passed and of the Parry Islands. 1853. McDougall, F. The Eventful Voyage of H. M. S. Eesolute in the Arctic regions in search of Sir J. Franklin, 1852-'54. 8°. London, 1854. Osborn, Capt. S., E. N. Discovery of the N. W. passage by Capt. McClure in H. M. S. Investigator, 1850-'54. 8°. London, 1857. Stray leaves from an Arctic Journal, or 18 mos. Service in the Arctic regions. Armstrong, A. (M. D.). Personal Narrative of the discovery of the N. W. pas- sage while in search of the Expedition under Sir John FrankUn, 1850-'54. 8°. London, 1857. Malte Brun, V. A., Vice Pres. Geog. Society of Paris. Coup d'oeil d'ensemble sur les differentes expeditions entreprises ^ la recherche de Sir J. Franklin et sur ses decouvertes g^ograpliiques. 8°. Paris, 1855. Eoquette, M. de la. Des dernieres Expeditions faites a la recherche de Sir John Franklin et de la D^couverte d'un passage par mer de I'Ocean Atlantique a I'Ocean Paciflque. Paris, 1856. Notice biographique sur I'Admiral Sir J. Franklm. 4°. 1856. Eichardson, Sir John. The Polar Eegions (from the Encyclopoedia Britannica). 1856. Life of Sir John Franklin in the Britannica. McClintock, Capt. F. Leopold, E. N. The discovery of the fate of Franklin and his Companions, 1859. 8°. Yoiing, Capt. Allen. The Search for Franklin. In CornhiU Magazine for 1860. S. Ex. 27 IV 1 Preliminary Chapter. Hiiyes, I. I. The Open Polar Sea. Narrative of a Voyage of discovery in tlie Scliooner United States. 8°. New York, 1860. Osborn, Admiral Slierard, R. N. The Career, last voyage, and fate of Franklin. 8o. Loudon, 1860. Malte Brun, V. A. La destiu6e de Franklin devoile^. 8°. Paris, 1860. Brown, J. The N. W. Passage and the plans for the Search for Sir J. Franklin. 8°. London, 1860. This work contains a satisfactory- review of both snb- jects, inclnding the results of McOlintock's voyage. Offlcial reports of the English expeditions, including such as those made by Dr. Eae and by Anderson who brought the first news of Franklin's exi)edition, and other returns which have not appeared in the form of narratives, will be found in the Parliamentary Papers,begiiining with the Instructions to Franklin, in the Bine Books, and in the papers issued by the Admiralty Hydrographic OfBce. The re- ports and discussions of most value outside of these, will be found in the Journals and Bulletins of the European and American geographical societies ; especially in those of the Eoyal Geographical Society, Loudon; the Bulletins de la Soci6t6 de Geographic, Paris ; the Annales de Voyage edited by Malte Bruii, and the Jour- nal of the American Geographical Society, New York ; and in Petermaun's Geo- graphische Mittheilungen. Copious references to aU of these are given in "Die Literatur iiber der Polar Eegionen," edited for the K. K. Geograi)hische Gesell- schaft, of Viemia, by Chavaune, Karpff, and Le Monnier. 8°. Vienna, 1878. Lhapter J- PREPARATORY WORK FOR THE SECOND EXPEDITION. SEPTEMBliR, mi, TO DKCIMBEK, Lli62 S. Ex. 27 1 CHAPTER I. PEEPAEATORY WOEK. Hall hioturns fuom his First Expedition — Telegraphs from St. John's, Newfoundland, EXPRESSING HIS PURPOSE OF A SECOND VOTAGE — WRITES TO MR. GRINNELL FROJI CIN- CINNATI, DESIRING TO PRESENT THE FROBISHER EeLICS TO THE ENGLISH PEOPLE — HiS ABSTRACT OF DiLLON'S DISCOVERY OF THE EeLICS OF La PEROUSE'S EXPEDITION — STUDIES HaKLUYT, PuRCHAS, and other AUTHORITIES, AND FINDS PROOF OF THE GENUINENESS OF HIS DISCOVERIES — EeADS A PAPER BEFORE THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, AVOWING HIS PURPOSE OF RETURNING NORTH THE FOLLOWING SPRING — ACKNOWLEDG- MENT BY THE EOYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF THE RECEIPT OF THE EeLICS — COR- RESPONDENCE WITH Mr. John Barrow and ^vith Captain Becher, E. N.. resulting IN THE preparation OF A NEW ARCTIC VOLUME BY ADMIRAL COLLINSON, E. N., FOR THE Hakluyt Society — Hall's account of his discoveries read before the Eoyal Geographical Society, London— Their genuineness confirmed by Eae, Barrow, Markham, and Young — His abstract of the three Expeditions of Sir Martin Frobisher — Addenda. Hall's preparations for his Second Expedition, which this Narra- tive is now to record, occupied a period of nearly two j^ears. The labors of those years, by demonstrating the successful results of his first voyage, and by the interest created through the publication of his "Arctic Researches", secured his second outfit. The purpose of the first voyage — to find the records of the Frank- lin Expedition, and, if possible, some of the survivors — was entirely defeated by the loss of his sole dependence — his boat. The purpose 4 The Franklin Boat -Crews. was but strengthened by defeat. He gave proof of this before his arrival in the United States by a telegram from St. John's, Newfound- land, to his friends, Mr. Grinnell and Mr. Field, of New York, and Mr. Greenwood and Mr. Bishop, of Cincinnati; a dispatch which began with the words, "I am bound for the States to renew voyage'', and which reads throughout more like news from an excursionist than from one who had been fighting his way through two Arctic winters. The forti- tude into which those severe experiences had disciplined him, seems to have shown itself steadily throughout the succeeding two years of working and waiting which are now to be traced. Arriving in New London September 13, 1862, and placing under the care of Capt. S. 0. Budington the Eskimos, Ebierbing (Joe) and Too- koo-li-too {Hannah), who had joined their fortunes with his own, two years before, Hall made a short visit to his family and to his earliest Arctic friends in Cincinnati. While there, his letters evinced much concern as to the opinions which the English people might form from the reports by the press of his late voyage, a hasty impression having been received from him that he had probably determined the fate of two boats' crews of Franklin's Expedition. He had been led into this error by a party of Sekoselar Innuits, but promptly corrected it in the columns of the New York press, and, afterward, more fully in a i)aper read before the American Geogra])hical Society and in the "Arctic Re- searches" His apprehensions were that before the first correction could reach P^ngland tlie error would prejudice the English against the gen- uineness of the discoveries he had been making in the region visited by Sir Martin Frobisher three centuries before. The appreliension proved to have been groundless. It had, how- The Proposed Visit to England. 5 ever induced Hall to decline lecturing in Cincinnati, and to entertain a new idea in regard to his discoveries and to the proper disposition of the valuable relics of Frobisher's Expedition, which he had found on this first voyage. Writing to Mr. Grinnell, he expressed his belief that he ought to go over immediately to England and present these to the English sovereign and people, as Captain Dillon in 1829 had presented the remains of La Perouse's Expedition to Charles X and to the French nation.* He naturally set a value on his late explorations, and had reason to suppose they would interest the English people. He believed that the account given by Frobisher himself of the country he had visited, was so indefinite that for nearly three hundred years the civilized world had been in doubt of the precise localities. Beste's Narrative to be found at that time only in Hakluyt's collection, and Barrow's history which Hall had in hand while traveling over the land, were proof enough of the indefiniteness of the geographical positions named by Frobisher. Up to the time of Hall's visit in 1861, no opportunity had been embraced for identifying these localities, orforconfirming the record of what Frobisher's three expeditions had reported as accomplished on * This he had found fully noted in the "Narrative and Successful Eesult of a Voyage in the South, performed by order of the Government of British India to ascertain the actual fate of La Perouse's Expedition of 1785 ; made by Chevalier Capt. P. Dillon in 1828." His attention hav- ing been closely drawn to this history, he had made the following abstract, the italicized parts of which are those underscored in his manuscript, as arguments for his yet finding survivors of Franklin's party. "Louis XVI and the French nation ha'sdng determined to contribute their share in enlarging our acquaintance with the globe and its inhabitants, ordered an expedition to be iitted out in 1785, consistiug of two of the finest Frencli frigates, La Boussole and L'Astrolabe. Neither labor nor expense was spared in completing the expedition, to which were attached some of the ablest and most scientific men of Europe. "To secure the success of this enterprise the ships' companies of which numbered 240 souls, it was deemed necessary to select a man of the highest professional talent to conunaud the expe- dition. La Perouse was chcseu ; his distinguished naval exploits, scientific acquirements, and enterprising character having pointed him out as the fittest person to be thus honored. "The expedition sailed from Brest, August, 1785, and, after making discoveries in variou.s 6 The Survival of La Perouse's Men. tliose shores. The Admiralty chart of 1 853 and that furnished for the volume of De Haven's Expedition, still had upon them the so-called "Strait" as reported by Frobisher, which was supposed to be a passage westward to the further part of Hudson's Bay; but navigators have always chosen Hudson's Straits in passing to and from that bay. Had any one attempted the passage through what Avas laid down on their charts as Frobisher's Strait, they might have anticipated Hall's dis- covery, correcting Frobisher and proving this to be a Bay. But the language of nearly all of the geographical writers on Frobisher's vo}'- ages was obscure, and the charts of the first half of the century, inaccu- rate. Hall had reason for desiring to prove the genuineness of his dis- coveries, and he expressed a wish to place his proofs before a committee that might be appointed in London to examine his notes, his rehcs, and himself. Sir Martin's name was that of one of the first of Englishmen (luartcrs, authored in Botany Bay January 26, 1788. Here La Perouse met witli the British squadron under Governor Phillips, and committed to him what proved to ho his last dispatches for France. At the close of Fehruary the French set sail for further discovery, hut nothing more was heard of La Perouse for thirty-eight years, when Captain Dillon, commanding a vessel sent in search of the remains of the lost expedition, ascertained the fate of the long lost navigator. On the island of Tucopla (Barnwell Island), lat. 12^ If,' S., long. 169° W., Dillon, in 182G-'27, ohtained information that, many years hefore, two vessels had been wrecked near the island of Manicolo, within less than one day's sail of Tucopia. Through^ Mai-tin Burhart, a Prussian who had resided there fourteen years, Captain Dillon learned that many from the shipwrecked crews had escaped to the islands. He hastened to Manicolo and there procured many relics from the natives ; and, from the depths of the seas in which the vessel had been wrecked, incontrovertible proofs of their destruction forty years before; and at length ho learned that many of the white men were saved, but that the last remnant of them had died only throe years before, after surviving thirty-seven years from the time of the wreck. On the island of Manicolo had lived some of these survivors of the ill-fated expedition long after the world had given them up as dead. The expedition sent out by France, under Admiral Entrecasteau, in 1791, had visited La Croix, a few leagues only from INIani- colo, where survivors of the lost experoblem of the Northwest Passage, reaching lat. 48° N. only on the western coast of America. Lhapter PREPARATIONS FOR THE VOYAGE COMPLETED; HALL SAILS FROM NEW LONDON FOR ST. JOHNS. DECEMBER. 1862, TO JULY, 1864. CHAPTER II. Hali, lectures for his personal support and that of the two Eskimos — His care OF these people ; death of Tuk-ee-li-ivee ta — Friends gained for the Second Expe- dition — Plan of an Expedition submitted by Hall, March 17, 1863, to Mr. Grin- NELL AND E. H. CHAPELL, OF NeW LONDON, CONN. — HaLL'S PREFERENCE FOR A PLAN WHICH WOULD NOT INCLUDE WHALING FINANCIAL DIFFICULTIES — EMBARRASSMENTS IN FORJDNG NEW FRIENDSHIPS— DETERMINATION TO GO OUT A SECOND TIME, EVEN FOR AN ABSENCE OF TEN YEARS — EXPECTATION OF FINDING NEW WHALING GROUNDS — CORRE- SPONDENCE ON THIS SUBJECT WITH MR. E. H. ChaPELL AND PROFESSOR BaCHE, SUPERIN- TENDENT United States Coast Survey — Disappointment as to assistance from thk LEGISLATURE AND FROM THE XeW YoRK CHAMBER OF COMMERCE— FAILURE TO OBTAIN A LOAN OF INSTRUMENTS FROM THE GOVERNMENT — CARD TO THE PUBLIC, POSTPONING THE Expedition to another year — Hall resumes work on the "Arctic Ee- sEARCHEs" — Lectures before the Long Island Historical Society — May, 1864. RENKWS his appeal, INDORSED BY LEADING CITIZENS— LOANS OF INSTRUMENTS — FliEi: PASSAGE TENDERED BY Mr. CHAPELL— HOSPITABLE RECEPITON AT NeW LONDON — SAILS FOR St. John's. His first expedition having secured an honorable place in history, Hall now entered upon a course of lectures, chiefly with the design of convincing the public of his probable success on renewing exploration; but with the additional reasons found in the necessity for securing support for himself and for his two Eskimo friends. He seems to have been carefully mindful of their welfare. "Everything," he wrote to Captain Budington, "must be done to protect the health of these peo- ple ; the assistance which I hope to receive from them on my sledge trip is too important for us to relax our exertions to have them com- fortable," For their benefit he accepted offers of compensation for 23 24 HalVs Lectures. their temporary attendance at museums in New York and Boston ; but, on learning their personal discomfort, incident to a close and heated atmosphere, he followed the advice of friends in refusing his consent for their presence at any other lectures than his own ; and this as more consistent with the character of his work. During the months of December, 1862, and January, 1863, lec- tures in Providence, Norwich, Hartford, New Haven, Hudson, Elmira, and other cities secured the attendance of large audiences. Among the prominent citizens of Providence who invited him to that city were Hon. H. B. Anthony, President Sears of Brown University, Hon. J. R. Bartlett, Prof J. B Angell, Gov. J. Y. Smith, Ex-Gov. E. Dyer, and Maj W. M. Rodman. After the Arctic lecture in Hartford, Professor Silliman indorsed Hall's work and his proposals for a new expedition by saying, in the Hartford Courant : Mr. Hall possesses inucU knowledge not fonnd in books, the fruits of liis own experience ; the discoveries he has made in the Polar Regions are regarded by geographers as of decided importance. Indeed, he did not himself realize that imi^ortance until since his return alter more than two years' exile. No civ- ilized man has, heretofore, been able to identify himself so completely with the Eskimos. Speaking their language and adoi^ting their modes of life and of voyaging, he is enabled to reach with safety, and even with comfort, regions hitherto deemed inaccessible. Old ]\Iartin Frobisher has become redivivus luider the very unexi)ected revelations now made. At these conversational lectures Hall traced on his maps of the localities he had visited, the tracks of the old voyagers Frobisher, Davis, Baffin, and others, as well as his own late explorations. The United States flag, loaned by Mr. Grinnell to the expediton of Dr. Kane, and borne by him so near to the Pole, was always saluted by tlie audience ; and the Eskimo family were objects of much interest as HaWs Lectures. 25 among the first of their race who had domiciled in the United States. Too-koo-H-too showed an unexpected knowledge of the geograj^hy of her country, reminding Arctic students of the native woman IligUiik, and of her cliart drawn for Parry. The lecturer himself could not claim the polish or the ease of oratory, but as he handled his subject with tact as well as enthusiasm, he succeeded in securing close atten- tion on the part of the audience, and was read}^ to answer numerous inquiries. His friends regretted that, under a general rule against all pay lectures, the Smithsonian Institution could not give him the use of the audience room in which Kane and Hayes had lectured, for he had hoped to interest the officers of the Government at Washington, and obtain an appropriation, and had been encouraged towards this by prominent men. Pie seems to have been wholly unable to realize how small is the circle of the liberal for scientific purposes and how nar- rowed that circle was at the time by the war. He solicited the aid of the Hon. Henry Wilson, of the United States Senate, to obtain an ap- propriation by Congress of $25,000. The proceeds of the lectures were by no means encouraging. He had ])roof of their having secured many friends in eminent positions, Ijut as to the pecuniary gain "he was even worse off than when he started out." The necessary expenses generally devoured the pro- ceeds of admission fees, made low to suit the war times. Contrary to the general supposition, nothing at all adequate to the support of his Eskimos was ever realized from this source ; the contributions for them from Mr. Grinnell, however, exceeded six hundred dollars, and other generous friends not unfrequently volunteered their aid. In despite of discouragements. Hall still pushed forward his plans, publishing his first outlines of them in the columns of the New York 26 Sanguine Hopes. Journal of Commerce, December 3, 1862 Very probably a sanguine temperament, excited sometimes by even a few strong words of sym- pathy from friends, prompted him to give unwarranted weight to such words. As a pictui^e of his feelings and of his way of recording his experiences, a single extract is given from a letter written at this date : "My heart is too full to record the happiness of a meeting to-night. Mr. Grinnell's whole family are so deeply devoted to my renewed expedition, that Mr. G. and his wife offer their son, now in the United States Navy, to go with me to King William's Land, and, if need be, he will contribute $10,000 to insure a research. 'There must be some- thing more done,' he said, 'in search of Franklin's Expedition."' "When England hears of this," Hall wrote to Budington, "I would not wonder if other expeditions should follow." This last expression wa;s made at a time when the English Government were adhering to their final refusal for all further search. The subject was not, indeed, revived in any official form until the unsuccessful proposi- tions of 1865 were discussed by the Royal Geographical Society, after Hall had asrain sailed. Had he not been sincere in his statements that his object was primarily the relief of Franklin's party, he would hardly liave laid this stress upon tlie hope that other expeditions would come out from England for the same object. His private note-books and diaries are trustworthy witnesses of the influences under which he brought his thoughts during this period of study and personal preparation. The following selections are taken from one of these books, which contain chiefly extracts and careful ref- erences to scientific authorities : Oiir greatest glory consists not in never falling, but in rising every time we fall, # * * Tiip (jucstion is not the number of fads ;i man knows, but how miicli of II lact he is himself. # * * Great personal activity at c:A4:^<-^ ^^^C-A-^^t- From a photograph in the possession of Charles H. Grundy, Esq., New York. ndiityjie Printing Cv.. Sustun. Private Notes. 27 times aud closely sedentary and severely thoughtful habits at other times, are the forces by Avhich men accomplish notable enterprises. They mature plans, after which, with energies braced to their work, they move to the easy conquest of difficulties accounted formidable. Some of these apothegms copied from a rare volume loaned to him by his friend Mr. J. D. Caldwell, of Cincinnati, are found em- phasized for his owm impress by being underscored almost word by word ; nor did he fail to note at length in his diary the sentiments of Professor Henry expressed in his communication to the Board of Re- gents of the Smithsonian Institution in 1857 in regard to his discoveries in electro-magnetism, that "he had freely given the results of his labors to the world,, expecting only in return to enjoy the conscious- ness of having added to the sum of human happiness." He noted down also the sentiment expressed by Smithson himself, that every man is a valuable member of society, who by his observations, re- searches, and experiments procures knowledge for men. To the encouragements offered by more able and influential friends were added those from Captain Budington and his wife, whose kindly messages from their humble home in Groton, Conn., were frequent, and were plainly effective on his spirits and on his labors. These at this time were very arduous. On the 27th January, 1863, he wrote to Budington from his quarters on Fourth street. New York, where he was "near the libraries and Mr. Grinnell : " There is sxich a vast amount of work on my hands that it becomes my duty to ask if it is possible for me to make arrangements by which you can again take the Eskimos into your family. Were it not that I iiave a book on hand, and also preparation for another voyage in four months from now, I would not ask this. At Elmira they had taken severe colds, and Hall foimd he could do nothing but nurse the sick, while in addition to his cares was the 28 Conference for the Second Voyage. death of tlieir infant TuJi-ee-li-ke-ta, born to this Eskimo couple in Rescue Bay, September G, 1861. He records in liis journal his sym- ])athy with the mother, who was herself thought to be near death, but who rallied and attended her child's funeral at Grotoii. The health of these people was excellent for some time after their arrival in the United States, but the chancre of food and of climate began sensibly to affect the '' ic}' children of the North." On the 17 til Maich, 1>>63, an anxiousl3'-awaited conference was held with Mr. Grinnell and Mr. Iv. H. Chapell, of the house of Will- iams ct Haven, at wliich Hall presented the following first notes for his second expedition: Proponed expedition to Boothia and King William'' a Land for the final determination of all the 7nii.< wii : \\ alter (inn- nell. of New York; Frank Kogers, of New London, Conn., and \\illiam Stony, Plmis Submitted. 29 of Groton, of the saDie State; also, to be of the same special party, the Eskimos Ebierbiug and Too-koo-li-too, whom I brought to the States, the latter to be my interpreter. VII. Sterry and a part of the natives I take from Frobisher's Bay, to be left at the head of Repulse Bay, in charge of a depot of provisions to be established there. Furtheimore, the duty of Sterry and the natives to hunt and capture seals and walrus, and barter with the natives around Eepulse Bay for walrus ivory. Polar bear, fox, wolf, and other skins, for the benefit of all concerned. VIII. A cheap frame house, to be constructed (portable) here in the States, the same to be landed at Kepulse Bay, and to be used there for storing provisions therein, and also as a residence and for headquarters. (Such houses are now used by whalers in IS^orthimiberland Inlet. IX. Providing such an emergency arise that I should he ohligcd to retreat from Boothia and King William's Land and seek provisions, and also for a place to recruit, I should be certain of finding the same at all times at Eepulse Bay depot. X. Occasionally to send an Eskimo friend, with sledge drawn by dogs, fi'om Boothia and King William's Land to headquarters at Eepulse Bay for anything that I might require. Without doiibt I shall have occasion to send to Eepulse Bay many packages of relics I may find of Sir John Franklin's Expedition. If I have the great good fortune to discover the Ships Erebus and Terror's i)apers, it will be my duty to accomjiany the same in their transport to Eepulse Bay. After seciiring these as treasures of untold value to the civilized world, I am then to return to King William's Land and Boothia and prosecute the search. Should I be still more fortunate, and should I find living among the Eskimos one or several of Sir John Franklin's men, my heart, overwhelming with unspeakable joy, will direct me then and there what is best to be done. XL Provisions of the most condensed character, such as pemmican, Bor- den meat, biscuit, desiccated meat, and vegetables, to be provided for the Eepulse Bay depot ; also, a proper quality of floiu', sea-bread, ammunition, guns, astronom- ical and other instruments, medicines, clothing, a Haklet boat, &c., &c., including proper articles for bartering with the natives and for compensating the services I may require of them ; perhaps it may be weU to atld wood and coal to these articles, the same to be used as fuel at Eepulse Bay headquarters. XII. By establishing headquarters at Eei^ulse Bay as indicated above, hav- ing there a whale-boat strongly constructed, and having there also Frobisher Bay Eskimos, there need to be no hinderance to the force employed on the vessel from prose- cuting to the fullest extent that branch of the expedition, to wit, whaling. 30 Plans Submitted. XIII. Should such success be met with that the vessel becomes filled with whale oil and bone before I have completed my research for the object and at the point designed, the same to be reshipped by some other vessel to the States, or / the vessel to be sent home, taking along my dispatches and such relics as I may have recovered ; said vessel to sail from the States the following spring for Eepulse Bay. XIV. The whole expenses of the expedition to be paid from the proceeds of the whaling branch, i^roviding the amount warrants it. XV. The expenses of the research department to be included in the first cost of the vessel, outfit, &c. XVI. This expedition to be known as "The Franklin Eesearch Expedition"; the minor details of it only to be understood by the parties most deeply interested. XVII. By having a boat's crew at Eepulse Bay headquarters shore-whal- ing could be prosecuted. One boat's crew might be made up of the natives. The policy of adopting this scheme could be determined on acquiring information of the natives at Eepulse Bay whether or not it is a good whaling ground. Mr. Grinnell and Mr. Chapell approved the general ideas pre- sented in this plan. It will be observed, however, that the returns for the proposed outlay were to be looked for from successful adventure in whaling, in which feature Hall was encouraged to place confidence b}^ conversations held a short time previously with his friends in New London. The outlay would involve the sum of $20,000, and the first ideas entertained at the meeting just named, limited the contributions for this object chiefly to the generous co-operation of Mr. Grinnell, Messrs. Williams & Haven, and Mr. Chapell. Notwithstanding their unquestionable sincerity and their mutual confidence in Hall, of whom Mr. Grinnell, at this meeting, said, " He is the man of all the world to be sent forth on the mission to solve the mysteries enshrouding the fate of Franklin's men," it could hardly be expected that these enthu- siastic hopes of immediate equipment could be realized. Mr. Grinnell had spent between £20,000 and £30,000 on the Franklin Relief Expe- ditions, and had already met with commercial reverses during the Avar, Hall will go Alone if he Must. 31 amounting, at that date, it is believed, to nearly $500,'i00. It was no time for either of the commercial houses to take risks. Ten days later, Hall drew up in detail six new plans, differing in their estimates and in the question whether the vessel of the expedi- tion should be employed in whaling or in exploration only. On the first of these, which contemplated exclusively the search for Franklin's party and the object of geographical discovery, he indorsed, "If there were a possibility of raising the amount of $20,000 involved in this plan, it should be accepted and carried out "; on the second, which he called " The Combination Eesearch and Whaling Expedition", he indorsed, " Taking into consideration all the circumstances of the times, I believe this the most feasible.'" He strongl}^ expressed him- self, however, as unwillingly converted to the idea of the second plan, considering it distasteful to unite the object of whaling with the search for Sir John Franklin's party. Submitting the first plan to Mr. Grinnell as one to be exclusively in his name and at his cost. Hall received the unavoidable reply that he did not feel that his means would justify his investing the amount indicated. The four last propositions dispensed with the idea of providing a special vessel, and differed within themselves chiefly in regard to the numbers of the party who might go out in a whaler. Among many offers from those who proposed to share his voyage, was one from Mr Washington Peale, an artist of New York, whom Hall would gladly have had to accompany him. The sixth memorandum, which he called his "Last Alternative", provided for his going out alone in a whaler and being landed wherever the natives should be met -with, to 32 HaWs Ability and Industry. make his way as best he could to Repulse Bay and thence to Boothia and King William's Land. His journal entry about this date, made after a series of disap- pointments during the day, has the significant paragraph : "Again I may say the want of luster on my habiliments precludes me from in- terviews with those from whom I would gain knowledge ; not so of Mr. Grinnell ; he knows I am poor, and yet he always treats me as if I were rich." It may here be noted that while Hall made like honorable exceptions in connection with the names of other generous friends, there is evidence that his scanty means at times produced the errone- ous impression on the minds of some that he was an ignorant person. He felt the lack of what, he says, makes men worthy of respect in the eyes of many. But although lacking in the culture that a collegiate course for which he had been prepared would have conferred, Hall had the advantages of a New England academic education, built upon the qualities of strong common sense, industry, and perseverance, and these had fitted him to grasp the subject he was pursuing. It ought further to be said that the ship captain with whom he sailed on his first voyage, unhesitatingly declared that he had made himself a fair navi- gator on the outward course, having availed himself of what opportu- nities he could command for receiving practical instruction in New York before sailing. On his return he had presented to Mr. J. Inger- soll Bowditch the corrections of a number of typographical and other errors in "The Navigator," which were adopted in the subsequent edi- tions, in regard to which corrections he had replied to an inquiry from Mr. G. W. Blunt by saying that " he had made them while working through l^owditch during a winter in the igloos." For reposing con- Inquiries as to Whaling. 3b fidence in his plans, his friends, therefore, had reasons at this time seemingly as solid as those which, at a later date, prompted the learned members of the National Academy of Sciences to say in their instructions for the Polaris Expedition — We have, however, full confidence not only in the ability of Captain Hall and his H^aval associates to make imi^ortant additions to the geograjihy of the Polar Itegions, but also in his interest in science and his determination to do all bi his power to assist in determining the scientific operations. If he was enthusiastic in the extreme, there was some method in his enthusiasm. It marks a strongly determined purpose that he should write in his private journal, in connection with his feelings as quoted above — I may record my opinion that I cannot succeed in getting the necessary co- operation of my countrymen to carry out my proposed exi^edition. God only knows my struggles. But, single handed and alone, I will yet accomplish my jmrpose — for I know it is a just and noble one — or die in attempting it. I will, if possible, get passage for myself, Ebierbing, and Too-koo-li-too in June next to Frobisher Bay. By degrees I will push northward and westward till I reach Ig-loo-lik, and thence to EepuLse Bay, and in time to Boothia and King William's Laud, the Meta of my aspirations. By this route it will take me three years to to reach King William's Land, three years to return — in all I shall expect to be absent ten years. His two cherished objects were to be as steadily pursued if he went alone as they could be were he fully equipped; and he was encouraged in the idea of securing substantial benefits to American whaling inter- ests by the replies received from New London, then vigorously pursu- ing that branch of industry. His inquiries of the whaling firms of that city had been in relation to the value of the whale oil and bone brought home in American ships from Davis Straits, Northumberland Inlet, and Hudson's Bay. S. Ex. 27 3 34 Correspondence as to Whaling. Writing to Mr. R. H. Chapell, he said : You know tlie value of exploring expeditions, how they opened up the Spitzbergeu whale-fishery, and those of Davis Strait, Baffin's Bay, and Hudson's Bay. I am greatly in hopes of demonstrating to you on my proposed expedition that a channel exists north of Hudson's Strait and running eastwardly from Fox Channel, which will be found to abound in whales, and through this channel an American passage to Hudson's Bay will be found, the right to which England can never question. The grefxt area of our commerce should not be allowed to go down. He received the following reply : You ask of me some information relative to the important and growing- branch of the whale-fishery now prosecuted by American vessels in the waters west of Greenland and Baffin's Bay. Within the last six years this new ground has opened up a new and fruitful field for the enteriirise of our hardy seamen. From 184G to 1852 but one American vessel fished in these waters. She made six voyages, taking in all about 3,500 barrels of oil and 51,000 pounds of bone ; and from 1853 to 1858 five different vessels returned from these waters bringing 75,000 barrels of oil and 115,000 pounds of bone, worth $130,000. Owing to the dangers of ice navigation and want of knowledge of the coun- try, the business on the whole had not to this time been profitable to those wlio prosecuted it. Since 1859 more energy has been displayed and greater risks inciu'red in following this trade. In 1800, two fine ships were fitted out from Fair Haven, Mass., at a large cost, for the exjiress purpose of pushing still far- ther west toward Fox's Channel or Hudson's Bay, where no American vessel had ever been, in search of a new and better whaling ground. Without accurate charts, in waters totally unknown, among much ice and strong currents, in short days and long nights, in fogs and gales of wind, with large compass variations, these adventurous navigators pushed their way and reached the longitude of 90° Avest, spent a winter there, when the thermom- eter fell to G0° below zero, obtained cargoes worth some $00,000, and returned to tlu; United States in 1801. At the present time there are fourteen American vessels engaged in whaling in these waters. Seven of these have passed the last winter there, and will bo expected home the coming fall with cargoes worth nearly $400,000. In the prosecution of this business we need, very much, good charts. The Correspondence with Professor Baclie. 35 best I have ever seen were drawn by some of the intelligent Eskimos,* to whom the ships are often indebted for acts of humanity and kindness. The latest English charts and the reports of the Eskimos say that a new channel can be found leading from Baffin's Bay to "Fox's Furthest"; could this be proved by act- ual passage it would be of great use to our ships. I wish you every success in your proposed voyage, and have no doubt that it will redound to the advance- ment of business interest of our merchants and the enterprise of our people. Very truly, yours, E. H. CHAPELL. Contemplating a lengthened residence in the localities visited by the whalers, Hall expressed his purpose to reach all such as would appear to be promising for the extension of the whaling interests. How near at this date he sanguinely supposed himself to have arrived towards the maturity of his arrangements for setting out, may be learned from the letter which follows. It was addressed to one who had more than once expressed much interest in his plans, Prof A. D. Bache, the distinguished Superintendent of the United States Coast Survey : June 6, 1863. Dear Sir: Your favor of May 22d was duly received. I have tran- scribed a few lines from it : " If you will give a brief outline of your plan and state what observations you intend to make, and what instruments you have not, I will try as an individual to aid you, and I think that Professor Henry will do so too." In reply to this I will say : It is now arranged that I leave the port of New York on or about the 1st of July next, in a vessel of one hundred tons, the vessel specially selected and strengthened for ice navigation. On reaching the north side of Bay of Frobisher, lat. 62° 33' N., long. 05° 00' W., I take aboard four (4) additional Eskimos (I have now two (2) with me). These Eskimos are to be my *For some sketches of coast lino drawn by Eskimos for Hall, see chapters xii to xiv, 1866-'69. For statistics of the whale-fishery of the region referred to, see Report of Prof. S. F. Baird, U. S. Fish Coniuiissiouer, for 1875-'7(), and U. S. Consul McDougall's tabular statements, Appendix No. VIII of tliis Narrative. 36 Correspondence with Professor Bache. auxiliaries in connection with the few whites that go to make up my ship's comi)any. From Frobisher's Bay I drop down to Hudson's Strait, and sail westerly and northerly to the meridian of 72° west of Greenland, north side of said strait, and here commence explorations, getting data for filling up the now blank on the English and American charts between the meridian named and 75° west longitude. Between these meridians I shall And an extensive inlet trending north. This discovery will prove of great value to our commerce, as this inlet abounds with whales of the Mysticetus kind. I gained the information relative to this bay and its inhabitants from the Eskimos I met when exploring the so-called Frobisher Straits, which, you know, I determined to be a bay. This part of the coast completed, I pass to Fox Channel. On arriving to "Fox's Fmthest," lat. GG° 50' N., commence exploration and continue it to the Strait of Fury and Hecla. From Eskimo reports, I shall find a strait of great importance, for it is wide and abounding with some si>ecies of whales referred to. This strait connects Fox's Channel loith Davis' Strait. If I find the Strait of Fury and Hecla navigable (that is, clear of ice) shall push through it for Gulf of Boothia, and then turn to the north, exploring the west coast of Cockbui-n Island to the parallel of Bellot Strait. Having made the passage to and through the latter-named strait, shall turn to the south, coast- ing along the west side of Boothia Peninsula till I arrive to the latitude of King William's Land, the latter being the point of my destination. On completing my investigations here and on the Isthmus of Boothia Felix, relative to Sir John Franklin's Expedition, I shall make my way for Behring's Strait by way of the Straits of James C. Ross, Dease and Simpson, Dolphin and Union. If I am not able to penetrate through the Strait of Fury & Hecla, shall turn to the south to Eepulse Bay, drop anchor, and establish headquarters ; then from this point, by means of dogs and sledges, and the aid of Eskimos, shall make journeys to Boothia Isthmus and King William's Land. The voyage I pro- pose to make will extend over tliree years. Respectfully, C. F. HALL. The sanguine hopes expressed in this letter were, however, again to be disappointed. It is unnecessary to detail the continued embarrass- ments and rebuffs which brought this result; they had nearly culmi- nated when Hall made the journal entries which have been quoted. Disappointments. 37 His insurmountable difficulties at the time may be referred to in brief as these : Although, at the instance of Judge Daly and of Mr. Waddell, the secretary of the American Geographical Society, its council had made two efforts to hold a conference with the Chamber of Commerce of New York to indorse the plans referred to, and secure pecuniary assist- ance for them, it was found impossible to get together a quorum of the Chamber for a hearing. A second disappointment was met with in the failure to secure, either from the Navy Department or from the Smithsonian Institution, the loan of instruments for the expedition. The Navy Department did not feel aiithorized to loan the public property for use by a private expedition. 'V\\q Smithsonian regretted that the magnetic apparatus furnished to Dr. Kane had been after- ward lost in Mexico; and in communicating this information added that "scarcely any results could be obtained, unless some one properly educated for the business of observation should devote his whole time to the instruments." The Institution inquired at considerable length whether Hall Avould not find it in his power to make extensive col- lections in natural history, as it possessed but little on that subject from Northeastern America. Hoping for assistance by a grant from the Chamber of Coumierce or by the City Council of New York, and encouraged by some dona- tions, Hall had anchored at the wharves of the city, on the same day, The Active, a schooner offered at a low price by his New London friends, and a yacht, presented by Capt IT. Robinson, of Newburg, N. Y., for the strengthening of which latter vessel lumber had been also contributed in Newburg, and a further most generous offer had been made for its el-'G2, I ])l;iniie(l another expedition for ISG.'J. On returnins to the States last September (1802) I stO]>])e(l at St. John's, Newfoundland, and there first learned that my country was engaged in war. At The Expedition Postponed ^o 18G4. 39 once I felt there could be but slight hope of resuming my Arctic explorations at the time proposed. Arriving in the States, and spending a few weeks among friends devoted to Arctic explorations, I came to the conclusion to spare no exer- tions in preparing for my second expedition to the Arctic Seas. In my struggle to make the proper preparations I have labored long and perse veringly, the results ofttimes appearing hopeful of my ultimate success. I need only to refer to the stupendous obstacle (the American war) that has been constantly before me during all my labors; for the subject is absorbing the attention of the whole civil- ized world. I deeply regret to say that, owing to the want of sufficient means and the lateness of the season, I am now compelled to postpone my expedition till next year. In the mean time I shall i)roceed to prepare my narrative of my late voyage (1860-'Gl-'62) for pubbcatiou, and at the same time take such steps as will insure the necessary aid for my expedition to the Arctic Eegions, now postponed to the sirring of 1864. Hall's feelings in regard to the labor called for upon his book will be learned from a single expression in a letter of October 20, 1863: " I have been deeply engaged for weeks and months upon my chart, and yet am not done with it. I had rather make a dozen voyages to the regions of ice and snow than prepare one book for publication. I fear that months will be used up before I get through with my book"; — words which may recall a like saying accredited to Dr. Livingston, that he would rather again cross Africa than write his Expedition to the Zambesi. Kane, too, had said that the writing of his book was his coffin. Close application was, however, given to the " Researches." It was all that Hall could accomplish during the year. In the early part of the spring of 1864 direct efforts were renewed, but an application made to the legislature of the State of New York for an appropriation of S25,000 and an appeal to the Council of the city were alike unsuccessful. On the 5th of May, by invitation of Rev. Dr. R. Storrs, President of the Long Island Historical Society, Hall 40 Appeal Renewed hy Friends. gave a conversational lecture on his Arctic experiences and his proposi- tion for a new expedition. The Eskimo family were pi-esent in their Arctic costume. The repetition of the invitation to lecture shows that the vote of thanks passed by the Society was designed to be more than a mere conformity to usage. Subscriptions soon after this began to l)e offered, and the follow- ing card appeared in the leading newspapers of the city : TO THE PUBLIC. Capt. C. F. Hall, who twenty months ago returned froni a two years and four months' exploration of the Arctic Eegion, intends to set sail on the 15th of June for another and more thorough voyage of discovery. During his former voyage he lived among the Eskimos, acquired their language, and satisfied him- self that he can live with these people in safety and health. He is prepared as no other exjilorer has been before him for making a thorough investigation of the important portion of Arctic land and water to which he proposes to devote himself. This region still holds an imjiortant portion of the secret of the ill-fated Franklin Expedition, viliich our countryman confidently expects to lay bare. It is, moreover, of value to our whaling and sealing' interests, and the i*eports on its natural history will possess scientific value. These considerations, which have led him to devote the best years of his life to Arctic research, induce also those whose names are appended to this notice to ask their fellow-citizens to join them in pro- curing for tlu; brave explorer such an outfit as shall set him fairly on his way, and enable him to iiciibrm thoroughly the task which he has set for himself. Our countrymen have won au honorable fame by their courage and endurance in Arc- tic research. It is, therefore, not fit that one who has already shown such i)ersc- verance, fortitude, and ingeiuiity in his previous voyage as Captain Hall has done, shall be permitted to leave our shores lacking anything which can further his laudable object. The proposed exploration has enlisted the sympathies of our most prominent scientific men, especially geographers, as well as enterprising whaling (inns. It slioiild be niuleistood (liat Captain Hall lakes with him no sailing-vessel, hut on arriving at the scene of liis labors will leave the ship which bears liim there, and trust to (he hospitality of the Eskimos. ^$XWs 'J:.7'T'^.^ ^-^ ^^KingsCape S all sbury V \NoUing>iaTn I. ^fo^ThcBoatsytere left Txc-re ^■. I -sTtso; I Cape Hope % ^C. Mercy "LadyTVaxililin I. J^.'-Hall I. ■••■ioksLand -:6b° CBest -^ UJi'GAVA BAY ■UandPl^ A B R DOR OutwaroL T-r€u:\ in 286i. Home-wa-rcL Trcuik zn. 1869. t'""i' '' '" ii ' I' ' I 7 5° 7 0° 6 5° 60° VrOUNDLAND TO WHALE POINT. 1864. JLSE BAY TO ST. JOHNS 1869. Angnst, 1864.] CouYse of (lie Skip. 55 it. The oil was sweet and pellucid. By the light from some of it, Hall wrote his next journal entries. In the paunch of the second bear about six gallons of seal-oil had been found. From the entrance of the straits the course of the Monticello had been run between 60° 59' N. and 63° 47' N. The last-named latitude, made August 10, was found to be considerably north of where the ship's dead-reckoning placed her ; she had been swept out by the current. From the 7th to the 20th the log gives the longitude reckonings, 69°, 70° 40', 72° 33', 75° 08', 84° 27', 85° 30', 88° 40', 90° 20', 89° 40' ; on the 20th, 89° 56' W. Compass variation, 41° W. On the 12th, under favor of a south-southeast wind and a strong current, the ship had made the most rapid advance of any part of her course ; Nottingham and Salisbury Islands, which had been on her starboard all day, being suddenly swept by and left far in the distance. It was now learned that the passage of the straits had been much more successfully accomplished by one of the ships of the Hudson's Bay Company, the Prince of Wales, which, according to her log, had made it in less than six days. Eight days after, the Monticello, having completed her run across the bay, anchored at Depot Island, in lat. 63° 47' N., long. 89° 51' W. The Eskimo name of this island is Pik-e-u-lar ; its English name had been given to it by Captain E. A. Chapel on a former voyage. Hall was much disappointed that the vessel did not proceed directly to Marble Island, her original destination. He had hopes of doing some good work there by carefully determining the geograph- ical position of the island, and had a second object in view. Remem- bering the fate of the expedition under Knight and Barlow, sent out 66 Expedition of Knight and Barlow. LAugust, i864. in 1719, some of the wrecks of whose vessels were found fifty years afterwards upon this island, he wished to explore it for relics of that expedition* which might yet possibly be found. In Hearne's Travels he had seen the statement that the remains of the houses built by this party, as also the hulls of the ship and sloop were visible for many years below the waters. He was at first landed with Ebierbing and To-koo-li-too on Depot Island. Mate Chester, who accompanied them, estimated the whole weight of his boat and outfit at only 1,400 pounds. The boat, built by Rodgers of New London, was but 28 feet in length, with 5 feet 10 inches beam, and 26 inches depth. The mate and crew returned on board the Monticello, and when, soon afterward, she left the harbor on her first cruise for whales, the party on the island began their five years' Arctic residence. A tent was erected on the western side, and some observations were made for determining the position and for marking out the adjacent coast line. On the 22d, the first game secured, footed up for the day nine petularks and one goose. During the week whicli followed, several vessels, and among them the Tender, Helen F., were sighted, apparently working their way up to Rowe's Welcome ; and although the fog at one time hid them from view. Hall was only the more delighted to find on the 23d the brig * Sickness aiul famine occasioned such havoc among the English that hy the setting in of the second winter their number was reduced to twenty ; and on the Eskimos visiting Marble Island again, in the summer of 1721, they found five of the English only alive, and those in such distress for provisions that they eagerly eat the seal's flesh and whale's blubbe)- quite raw as they purchased it from the natives. This disordered them so much that three of them died in a few days ; and the other two, though very weak, made a shift to bury them. These two survived many days after the i-est, and frequently went to the top of an adjacent rock and earnestly looked to the south and cast as if in expectation of some vessels coming to their relief. After continuing there a considerable time, and notliiTig appearing in sight, they sat down close together and wept bitterly. At length one of the two died, and the other's strength was so far exhausted that he fell down and died also ichilc atUmpliiKj to dig a (/rare for his companion. — (.Journey from Prince of Wales' Fort, in Hudson's 15ay, to the Northern Oc(>an, 1707-1772, by Samuel llearne. Inlrod., p. xxxi.) August, 1864.] A White Man Hired. 57 Isabel and the bark Concordia, and on the 25th the Helen F., snugly anchored west of the island. The captains of these vessels went ashore and expressed their kindly interest in Hall's purposes, offering him also comfortable accommodations on their ships if he should com- plete his work before the expiration of their cruises. Capt. H. Y. Chapel, of the Tender, spent much of the day on Hall's ''flag-staff hill," from which he had sighted the ships while making his observations. He now secured his first assistant. Charles Rudolph, a German, one of the crew of the Isabel, having learned Hall's wish to employ a white man as a companion on the expedition, volunteered to go with him and went ashore for an interview, bearing high recommenda- tions from his officers. He had spent one previous winter among the Innuits. He was very closely questioned in regard to what he knew of Innuit life and what trials he supposed he would have if he went on this intended journey of from two and a half to three years, and his replies were so satisfactory that, taking them in connection with the recommendation of his officers (Mr. Gardner, the second mate, being an old acquaintance), Hall had no hesitation in accepting the proposal. The experience of his First Expedition had taught him that "the man from the land of civilization who should accompany him, must be one whom he well knew, and one that would face disappointments, depriva- tions of food without a murmur, endure with stout heart storms, cold, and hard labor without flinching, and be truthfully obedient and trust- worthy every way." Before setting out, he had refused many appli- cations from persons in the United States and Canada, under the feel- ing that unless he knew them intimately he might regret having taken a companion when it would be too late for a remedy. It may be remarked in passing that the letters containing such applications found 68 Whalers at the Island. lAngnst, i864. among Hall's papers and dating within the years 1860-62, as well as the future history of other like cases, justify the precaution he took. Before taking Rudolph into his service he told him, in Mr. Gardner's presence, the very darkest and hardest side of the story as to the life he must lead if he went to King William's Land, asking him also if he were aware that perhaps they would starve, or be killed by the Innuits. But Rudolph answered that he could endure what any one else could, and could stand it as well as Hall ; and if they should find no chance of escape, a man would have to die but once, and, therefore, he was not afraid to go. A contract was then made for the term of three years, at a compensation of $25 per month, with the promise of a much larger sum if the objects of the expedition should be secured; and to complete the papers properly required in the case, Captain Parsons of the Isabel, received from Hall a copy of the contract, to be shown, if necessary, at the custom-house in New London on the return of the brig. On the 26th, Mr. Gardner recorded for Hall his observations for the day, which included some lunar distances. On the 27th, no fewer than eight whalers, the Cornelia, George and Mary, Concordia, Morning Star, Isabel (brig), and Isabel (schooner), with the Monticello, and her Tender, were all at anchor. The officers and men of these vessels very kindly added some useful things to Hall's small outfit, and promised their assistance whenever it should be in their power. The Morning Star, leaving her anchorage for Cyrus W. Field's Bay, received a copy of Hall's chart of Frobisher Bay. The next day the crews of the Monticello and Helen F. were engaged in towing the former vessel to the place selected for her winter quarters. Angnst, 1864.] HoU Landed at Whale Point. 59 At 11.30 a. m. of the 29th the anchor of the Tender was catted, and Capt. H. Y. Chapel sailed with Hall, his two Eskimos, and his new employ^, Rudolph, under instructions from the captain of the Monti- cello, to convey them to Wager River. From this point they were to proceed in the boat to Repulse Bay, where Hall expected to winter and prepare for his sledge journey to King William's Land in the spring. Three of the whalers accompanied the Helen F. out of the harbor, one of which, the Isabel, bound homeward, took letters to the United States, including some from Too-koo-li-too to Miss Sylvia Grinnell, (now Mrs. Captain Buxton, R. N.), and to Mrs. Budington. The Tender left her anchorage with a light breeze from the north- east; but the wind soon veering to the south and freshening, she made from four to six knots per hour toward Cape Fullerton. While cross- ing an inlet which Hall named after Captain Chapel, he wrote his first Arctic letter to Mr. Grinnell, dating it August 29, lat. 63° 47 N., long. 89° 58' W. On the 30th, he left the vessel in Mr. Chester's boat and landed at Whale Point, returning to the schooner at about 4.30 p. m. The next day they had the first sight of whales. The captain of the Tender now informed Hall that he had reached Wager River, and would, therefore, land him in order that the schooner might return to Marble Island to make her winter quarters. Both Hall and Chester dissented from the captain's judgment that he had reached the river. The first officer, however, insisted that they were opposite its southern entrance. Early in the morning of the 3 ! st, therefore, Chester again took charge of the Sylvia, with her Arctic outfit, and landed Hall with his party at a point which seemed to be, in Chester's judg- ment, 35 miles, but was afterward determined by Hall from a meridian 60 An Unfortunate Mistake. (September, i864. altitude to be 40 miles, soiith of the point which Captain Chapel sup- posed he had reached. Mate Newman, with a boat's crew from the Tender, assisted in conveying the stores on shore. Hall gives the position of this first landing place as lat. 64° 35' N., long. 87° 33' W., " Encampment No. 1." This mistake of the land was a grievous disappointment. The remaining distance was clearly within the instructions received from the captain of the Monticello, and it could have been readily and safely made. It was more than a disappointment to Hall, for it proved to be the loss of a wliole year to the expedition. Had the landing been secured at the point proposed on Wager River, he might have gone directly to Repulse Bay, securing there his winter quarters, and preparing, as he expected, for his spring journey. It will be seen that he was com- pelled to pass his first winter near this first landing, and that it required the larger part of the opening season to push on his boat and stores to Repulse Bay. Whatever, however, may have been the error, and how- ever sore the disappointment, no complaints are found in his journal. The crews using both sail and oars found a fair harbor a little before meridian, but landed with difficulty because of the falling tide. Hall and Rudol})!! were in the water waist deep to haul the Sylvia ashore. A single white man \\\ a desolate region, and at the beginning of an Arctic winter, but a man of a brave heart and of Arctic experience ! The whole of the first day after landing he occupied in making a cache and depositing stores, in order to reduce the weight of the Sylvia's cargo. Such articles as were not needed for immediate use were carefully packed in three deposits under a ponderous pile of sicpicmbcr, 1S64.] CoasUfig AloYiQ the Welcome. 61 rocks. Tlie chief objects thus cared for, besides his books and the other personal effects of the party, were the cans of pemmican and of desiccated vegetables, sugar, coffee, tea, and tobacco, a small sup- ply of spirits, powder, shot, and percussion caps. Several groups of deer were seen during the day, and Ebierbing killed five of their num- ber, bringing to the encampment, with Rudolph's help, the skins of three with part of the meat, and leaving the remainder in a cache three miles off. The party had thus fresh meat almost immediately on landing. On the 3d, Hall resumed his voyage to Repulse Bay by coasting along to the northward. Having made about five miles, he found himself completely headed by land which shot directly athwart his course, though he had supposed he should find a channel. It was simply a bay filled with numerous islands. The tide was running furiously before he got out of it, and it was only by skillful manage- ment that the Sylvia was free from the eddies, currents, and overfalls that abounded there, and was again in smooth water. In writing of this to Captain Chapel, he said : How shallow the Welcome ! Over mucli of the distance made from the place of my first encampment to second, in lat. C4° 50' 30" — 15 miles — our Sylvia, drawing only 18 inches, often touched bottom a half mile to two miles from the coast. The land on the west side of the Welcome, at no point between the two encampments named, can exceed 30 to 40 feet in height. I have no hesitation in saying that the American whalers who have so successfully been navigating in Hudson's Bay, especially in that part of it called Sir Thomas Eowe's Welcome, since you and your brother Christopher first opened up the whale-fishery in said bay, in 18G0, must be as good navigators as the world knows of. This is said with the full knowledge that little or no dependence can be placed on any com- passes on board of your ships. Although my azimuth compasses are of the most delicate construction, they are virtually of no use except to show how perfectly fickle and unreliable compasses are in this portion of the North. 62 First Meeting with Innuits. [September, is64. Eskimo Joe now sighted with the telescope a place ou the laud where the Innuits* had had a late encampment, the marks being several tent-poles stand- ing erect. A few minutes later he sighted a boat which was turned over and lyiug above high water on the land ahead. From this we concluded that the natives could not be far oft", and toward this boat the Sylvia was now diiected. When within one mile of it we were delighted at the sight of a native near this boat ; and yet the joy was mingled with something that was akin to fear, for he appeared advancing cautiously toward us with gun in hand, and at the same time, as Joe thought, loading it. However, I caused my small crew of three to pull ahead, and soon leaped from the bow of the Sylvia into the muddy shallow water and waded ashore. The next moment my hand was in that of noble Ou-e-Ms (Albert's), as fine a specimen of an Eskimo as ever I met. I told him that but a few days before I had seen you, and that Captain Chapel had brought me and the two Innuits then in the boat in his vessel from my country, America. OM-e-?rt'« joy ou hearing from you seemed equal to mine on meeting him. He told us that his tupil; skin tent, and those of several others of his people, were just over a point of land from where we then were, and that if we would stop and make our encampment there, he and his people would the next day moA'e over beside us and then we all would have a long talk. * The aijpellations Innuits and Eskimos will bo used in this Narrative synonymously, as Hall uses thom. It may be as well, however, to give the probable origin of the names and their Jogit- imatc application. The word Esquimaux — better written Eskimo — is derived from a root judi- cal iug, in the language of the Northern tribes, a sorcerer. The Innuit name ii'rtjf-HsAfewf meaus the house where llie shamans, sorcerers, conduct their dances and incantations. The word lunuit means people, and is in use from Greenland to Bering Strait. It should take the place of Es- kimos, the etymology of which is not clear. Mr. W. N. Dall, in a paper read before the American Association in I8(i9, and in a number of "The Ctmtribntions to North American Ethnology" by !M:ijor J. D. Powell, makes the following additional valued statements: "The Orarians arc distinguished (I) by their language, of which the dialects, in construc- tion and etymology, bear a strong resemblance to one another throughout the group, and dift'er in their homogeneousness (as well as the foregoing characters) as strongly from their Indian dialects adjacent to them ; (II) by their distribution, always confined to the sea-coasts or islands, some- times entering the mouths of largo rivers, as the Yukon, but only ascending them for a short dis- tance, and as a rule avoiding tlu^ wooded country; (III) by their habits, more maritime and ad- venturous than the Indians, following hunting, andkiiling not only the small seal, but also the sea- lion and walrus. Even the great Arctic bow-head whale (and anciently the spcrm-\vlial(0 fulls a victim to their persevering eflbrts ; and the ])ateut harpoon, almost universally used by American whalers in lieu of the old-fashioned articl<^, is a co])y, in steel, of the bone and slate weapon which tli<)\s. The dogs hud saddle-bags, and (opjtiiig September, 1864.1 Reindeer Deposits Visited. 69 them were pannikins and such varied things as are always to be found in Innuit use. Ebierbiug had for his pack our tent and some tive or six tent-poles, while in his hands be carried his gun. Charley Eudolph had a large roll of reindeer- skins, in his hands carrying numerous tent-poles. Too-koo-li-too had also deer- skins, and in her hands various things. I carried on my shoulder two riHes and one gun, each in covers ; under one arm my comjiass tripod, and in one hand my little basket, which held my pet Ward chronometer, and in the other my trunk of instruments. A snow-drift set in on the 20th, but during its continuance about twenty bags of fire-shrub were gathered. It was not the usual Andro- meda Tetragona, but something of hke character, and was collected for fuel and for a covering on the tupiks. During the rest of the month a continuance of stormy weatlier prevented astronomical observations The land began to look winter- like. The tracks of a wolf were now first seen ; it had been busy with the bear-skins which had been left to dry near the third encamp- ment. The ground was already covered with snow to the depth of a half inch ; the ice on the lakes bore the weight of a man, and the heavy weather on the coast drove inland more of the game. The Innuits, warned of the necessity for procuring winter clothing, made a journey of five miles down the coast to their deposit of rein- deer-skins. On their return, it was a matter of surprise to Hall to see what heavy loads they were bearing on their backs, one of the youngest of the men carrying no less than 125 pounds, and Too-loo- ar-a, one of Ou-e-laJs wives, 100. In binding their packs they passed thongs around them, and these across their foreheads and breasts. When appropriating these furs, on the following day, a gay and novel scene presented itself The best skins being arranged in an outside circle, the women were gallantly allowed each to make her selection from these ; the remainder of the one hundred and fifty skins being 70 Too Frequent Visits. [September, i864. then chosen by the men from the inner circles. Several women had young children at their backs. "The gilt bands on their heads, the spiral tails hanging on each side of their broad faces, the boys and girls at play, made altogether a fine subject for a picture." Ou-e-Ia, speaking for his companions, had requested Hall to take out his choice of furs, first of all. The reindeer by this date had nearly all gone south, not to come again till spring. Returning from a lonesome tramp, on which Hall had made a discovery of wolf-tracks, he was visited by almost all of the Innuits of the village, with their congratulations on his escape from a seeming danger. Their visits were, however, fnst becoming so fi-equent and protracted as to give him much concern. Fully dis- posed to do nothing but rest in the enjoyment of the fruits of their summer labors, they did little else than visit and eat; "laying off and eating, eating, eating." Lounging in Hall's tent the day long and talking with Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, they became "quite a bore "; particularly as these talks were already bending Too-koo-li- too's mind to an inconveniently slavish obedience to their customs She gave the first proof of this by going off among the rocks to mend her took-too stockings for fear of offending these natives by woi-king at all on took-too within a tent. It was only when all these Innuits had retired to their several tupiks that Hall's company could have a full meal. They must always share it with the unsophisticated children of the North ; " such voracious eaters that they always get the lion's share." The evening meal, however, usually consisted of but cold rock-pemmican, tallow-candles, and degenerated meat, and even of this Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too were fortunate if they got half a dozen mouthfuls before all was gone. In very pleasant contrast with this bcptcmber, 18ti4.J Winter Game. 71 is found an occasional note of the bringing- in by Eudolph of a fat rabbit, in its winter garb, all white except the tips of its ears, "jet black ;" or of as many as eight or ten snow-partridges. Flocks of these birds, in their winter dress, snow white, except their tail-feath- ers, were found in numbers on the sea-shore, after each fall of snow. In the depth of the winter they are scarcely distinguishable from the snow at a distance of 10 feet. ^ .%. PTARMIGAN {Tetrao Lagopus). 72 An Aurora. [scpicmbw, isc4. Hall's journal closes the month of September with an imaghia- tive comparison between the early snow-storms and Arctic aurora : While out on a walk amid the snow-storm this p. m., I was struck with the similitude, in some respects, of the appearance of the snow, as it was swei)t along by the winds over the glassy surface of the new-made ice of the lakelets, to that of the aurora in these regions when in its full play. I refer to certain peculiar movements of the one corresponding to the other. If I wished a friend at home to get a fair idea of the movements of the aurora here in its general exhibitions, I should say go out during the first severe snow-storm and get within sight of some smooth ice covering some river, i)ond, or lake, and watch the snow as it is driven along. Noav and then pufts of wind come sweeping along, so to sjieak, rays or beams of snow that seem to play fantastically. Innumerable numbers of these go to make up a most interesting scene. While the aurora, in rays or beams, shoots up vertically, and is of golden hue, and often of prismatic colors, the snow is swept along horizontally, and is white, the same as the aurora in the sunlight. — White. On the 5th of October, Joe brought to Hall some muk-tuk, the black skin of the whale, which was much relished ; but Hall was still suffering from boils on his eyelids. His whole part}' were sick, and were confined to their tents for several days by a storm. On their recovery, Ebierbing, assisted by Ou-e-la and Armou built for him a large igloo near those which the Innuits had already erected for them- selves. Hall's was built with much care, although it cost but two hours' labor; he found it quite strong and commodious. Its diam- eter was 10 feet. The construction of one of these snow-houses, built by the Innuits of this region, is described by him substantially as follows : After making trial of several banks of snow, by plunging in tlicir long knives, on finding the proper compactness, they cut blocks 2 to 2^ feet in length and about 18 inches in thickness. One set is cut from the spot on which the igloo is to bo built, its floor being thus October, 1864.] Igloo-BuUding. 73 sunken 18 inches below the general surface. In placing the blocks around this excavation, of about 10 feet diameter, the first tier is made up of those which, by increasing regularly in width, form a SNOW-KNIFE MADK OF BONE ; DEPOSITED BY HALL IN THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. spiral from right to left. They are laid from within, each being secured by a bevel on the one last laid and another bevel on the next one below. The joints are well broken. The blocks incline inwardly, thus regularly diminishing the diameter of the igloo and fitting it for the dome or keystone. Thirty-eight blocks were here used. For ventilation, a small hole is usually made by the spear. The crevices are well filled with snow within and without, making it nearly an air-tight structure. For a window, a small opening cut in the dome is filled in usually with a block of clear ice ; in some cases with the scraped inner linings of the seal ; this last makes a light on which the frost does not settle as upon the ice-blocks. The passage-way to the igloo is always long and points toward the south. The Repulse Bay natives shovel up much more snow upon the hut than the Green- landers do. The igloo lamp is sometimes nothing more than a flat stone, about 6 inches in length, placed in a niche cut out of the wall, and having on it a little dry moss for a wick, which is supplied with oil by a slice of blubber from the bear or the seal. A stone lamp of better form, although poor enough, will give something of a fair light and warmth. 74 IlaJTs Igloo. [October, 1S64. The comforts within such buildings are of necessity very limited. It is a matter of surprise that during- the very many tedious Arctic HALI.'S IGLOO AT NOO-WOOK. GROUND I'LAN OF THK IGLOO. hours spent within them by Hall he could bear with fortitude their worst evils; and could, at the same time, write his notes with such October, 1864.) Winter Quarters. 75 fullness, study and correct typographical errors in his Bowditch, and work up his observations. He often "wondered at the simplicity to which the necessities of life may be reduced. His house was a INNUIT LAMP. (Deposited by Hall in tlie Smithsonian Institution ; the iracture mended by the natives, with sinew. Dimensions: Length, 26 inches; depth, 11^ inches to base of flange; flange, 2f inches thick, 2 inches high. ) building without a corner, without props or braces ; the wall, roof, and door a unity, yet so strong as to defy the power of the fiercest Arctic gales." Hall was now fairly established in his winter quarters. His instruments for making his observations were as yet unhurt. He had no apprehensions as to a want of provision. The Sylvia and other boats were safely housed. And it may not be a matter too trivial in this case to be noticed that Ebierbing, by the use of scissors, plied the vocation of barber to Hall's beard, over which a razor had not passed for six years. "Its length had been a special protection in the summer months against those tremendous blood-suckers called in the English tongue mosquitoes, which abound in swarms here." This last state- ment may be remembered in contrast with the experience of Parry's men in the higher latitude of Winter Harbor in June. Parry says : "The mosquito," Culex pipiens, "was never of the least annoyance to us, as is the case on the shores of Hudson's Bay and other cold countries." 76 Letter to Chapel. [October, is64. Some weeks after this, Hall wrote to his friend, the captain of the Monticello, at Depot Island : I exchanged tent for snow-house, and have now been in the igloo sixty days, and all the time as comfortable as I ever was in winter in my life. You would be quite interested in taking a walk through my winter quarters; one main igloo for myself and Eskimo children (Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too), and three igloos, all joined to the main, for store-houses. A low, crooked passage-way of some 50 feet in length, made of snow, leads into our residence, which, as you will know from the word igloo, means a snow-house ; its shape is hemispherical. 1 never before knew any Eskimos so provident as this tribe or clan I am wintering with. I doi;bt not they have four hundred or more of reindeer, killed last summer, on deposit within the distance of a circle of 20 miles in diameter. We are now living on polar-bear and walrus meat. Five polar bears, some musk-oxen, a great many partridges, and four walruses have been killed since arriving among the natives, besides a large number of reindeer. HAPTER intp:rcourse with the innuits— their feasts and hunts. OCTOBER TO DECEMBER 31, 18G4. CriAPTEE IV. Hall's ministrations to the suffering — Their gratitude — Feasts described — Ebierbing AiocooTED— An aurora — Magnetic observatory erected — Sledge journey down the Welcome — Musk-ox hunt — A fox caught in his own trap — Customs in making REINDEER DEPOSITS — A BEAR SLAIN — PREPARATION OF SKINS — HaLL'S SEAL HUNT — PLAY- ING the KEY-LOW-TIK — EeMOVAL to the walrus-grounds — OU-E-LA'S InNUIT STORIES — Visit by the natives to the whale-ships at Depot Island — Alleged reasons for ADVICE given by THE INNUITS TO DR. EaE IN 1854 — DISCOVERY THAT A DAY HAD BEEN LOST IN THE RECKONING — PRESENTS RECEIVED FROM THE WHALERS — SUCCESSFUL WALRUS HUNT. A gale from the northwest, which had prevailed for three days, was followed on the 8th by a day with scarcely a cloud in the sky. The temperature was quite low ; the thermometer inside the tent had read 19°. Hall with difficulty wrote out his notes, and began to fear he might lose his ink. Digging out from a wide snow-drift a box which contained two standard thermometers, he was glad to find them unbroken. They showed a temperature of 20°, the air outside tlie drift being 10°. Although still suffering much from an abscess close to the ball of his right eye, and fearing that the left eye was also endangered, he had occasion to renew his visits of assistance to the natives, to supply 79 80 Belief Given to the Sick. [Ociob<^r, is«4. tlieir necessities both of food and medicine. He found them entirely out of provision. Coming quickly at his call, they made a meal with him on a quarter of a pound of pemmican each, and took back a supply for the breakfast of the women and children. She-nook-shoo, Ook-har-Iod's son, was quite sick in his snow-house. His fever was arrested, and he was restored, partly by medicines and partly by nutritious food, the supply of which was controlled. The cooking, Ook-har-loo refused to have done in a kob-lu-na's igloo. The poor people were not lacking in a free showing of thankfid- ness by words and acts. They had abundance of deer-meat within a radius of 25 miles ; probably three hundred reindeer scattered over the country in the different deposits which in their late hunting season they had made, and which they now frequented to bring in these supplies. Intercourse between them and Hall became still more familiar. He often dined out ; and as often invited them to pemmican and coffee. A cordial invitation and a full feast are thus described : Return- ing from a walk to his third encampment, when coming near the igloos, a band of boys and girls came running to meet him, crying out, ^^Ki-ete, kal-la, ea-tu, ea-tu; took-too tood-noo, am-a-suitf^^ "Come quick, for reindeer-meat and tallow are plenty." Following the youth- ful company to the igloos, he found a heavy load of deer skins and meat just brought in on a sledge from one of the deposits. A whole deer was part of the load. All the women of the village were present, as this was to be an unusual feast. The meat was placed in one of two igloos which were connected by a })assage 10 feet in length, and of sufficient height for a man to stand up in it erect. In one igloo were the women ; in the other, the whole reindeei" was on the table-cloth — cctobrr. 1864.) Au lunuit Feust. 81 a took-too skin — before which stood Oii-e-Ia, naked from his waist up, with liand-saw and hatchet to carve. Hall presented each of the men with a long knife, with his own name marked on the blade. He enjoyed the meat, which was good, as well as the reindeer-fat, which was 2 inches thick and abundant. On visiting the women's igloo, he found Mother Ook-har-loo with an old one-eyed lady and all the younger ones seated around a pile of meat, having a happy time ; three others, with their naked infants at their backs, sitting near, on the bed-place, Turk -fashion. At another dinner, which consisted of boiled deer-meat and soup made of the blood, Hall thought the cooking was better than that from iron pans and pots ; and he says that the stronger the venison, even if putrid, the better he and the Innuits relished it. " It has a rich flavor, while fresh venison is almost tasteless." On the 14th, he dined at Nu-her-zTioo's, "Jack's," on the usual fare of frozen deer-meat, having lunched on black- whale tail with relish. At supper his own invited guests feasted on a soup made by cooking pemmican, Borden meat, and biscuit in a liberal quantity of water. Hot coffee with raw frozen venison was found to be distasteful. "The two do not go well together, for after a drink of hot liquid the icy venison makes the teeth ache. The change is entirely too great. The Innuits take all their warm drink first; they have sound teeth." He now began to discuss his plans with them more fully in order to ascertain what assistance they would render him ; proposing to pro- ceed to Iwille, or Iwillik (Repulse Bay), with the whole company, and there make his headquarters, and thence move on by sledges to Neit- chille, Boothia Felix. He would there determine upon the best way of reaching King William's Land. The Innuits agreed to assist him, but S. Ex. 27 G 82 The An-ge-ko Orders Hall to Burn His Clothes. [October, i864. advised that the whole company go well armed to Neitchille, as there existed a strong war-like feeling between the natives of that region and those of Iwillik. Hoping to remove every obstacle in the way of accomplishing the object of his expedition, he accepted their advice and subjected himself to the unreasonable demands of the customs, prejudices, and even of the superstitions of the natives. As an instance of the last of these, he now submitted to the loss of even his most valuable garments, since an an-ge-ko (conjurer or medicine man) required them to be burned after he had professedly cured Ebierbing fix)m sickness. Hall consented to believe that Ebierbing seemed much better after the operation, but was unprepared for the an-ge-kds decree, that his own reindeer-skins, and those of his two Eskimo companions, should be destroyed. The favor of the Innuits was, however, thus kept up; they had already given him many skins, and he felt sure they would give more, if needed. He began to hope that these people, about forty in number, were becoming bound to him by strong ties, and would co-operate with him on his journey. He thought them the best of the Eskimos with whom he had met ; and, willing to adapt himself to their habits in every respect, he discarded his outer clothing at this early stage of the season, and dressed himself in a full Innuit suit. The varying temperature of this part of the month kept the whole party watchful of the state of their snow-houses, which were further endangered by their heated atmosphere, when crowded by visitors day and night. On the 15th the thermometer read 34° all day inside, and 27°, 80°, and 28° outside. The domes of all the igloos of the village were riddled with holes and threatened to cave in. Hall's had one prop to keep up the dome during the day, and at night he added two October, 1864.] An Auvora. 83 more, and watched his chronometers close at his side, that he might shelter them if the roof should fall. Awaking next morning he found a dozen large windows which had been made by the melting snow. The premises were then vacated, and his friends took down the old walls and rebuilt him a house, handling the snow-blocks with great care, as they lacked their usual compactness. Again anxiously watch- ing the thermometer, at 8 p. m. he found it read 31°, the wind being from the southeast with snow, which, if it changed to rain, would bring down every igloo in the village; but, at 1 a. m. of the 16th, the wind shifting to the northeast brought the thermometer down to 0°. The weather cleared up. An aurora, seen on the night of the 18th, is thus described in the journals : At 10 p. m. I went out, and the aurora was spanning the azure vault. A smart breeze from the north was blowing nearly the whole night. This seemed to add to the briskness of the merry dancers as they crossed the heavens to and fro. An hour before, the sky was clear, not a cloud or an aurora ray to be seen; now, a belt extended across the heavens, arch-like, some 25° above the horizon, its direction being from southeast to northwest. I watched the rising arch. Every few moments gave varied and magnificent changes. At length patches of aurora burst forth here and there. Graduallj' the main arch reached the zenith, and then was the grand part of the scene. Much of what was before -in perpendicular rays shot athwart and across the heavens swiftly like a river of molten gold, here and there forming vast whirljiools, here and there an eddy, here and there a cataract of stupendous fall. When above my head, it seemed less than a pistol-shot dis- tant. Indeed, it was near by. When I moved quickly, running iip to the top of the hill by the igloo, making a distance of less than 50 fathoms, the arch of the aurora, that seemed stationary while I was by the igloo and in transitu, was now several degrees to the soutJncest of me. I returned as quickly to the igloo, and the auroral belt was directly overhead. So small a base, with so palpable a change in the bearing of the aurora, proved that it must have been quite close to the earth. A ball of fire fell during the display, and burst just before it reached the earth, throwing out prismatic scintillations in every direction. 84 Noise from the Aurora (f ). [October, isos. Hall found himself unable to decide whether any noise actually proceeded from the aurora. On questioning the Innuits as to whether they were accustomed to hear noises during its display, they answered "Yes;" one of them endeavoring to imitate the sound by a puffing noise from his mouth, which noise, Hall says, did remarkably accord with what he thought he had heard himself during the time of the most active displays.* Auroral action of equal interest occurred repeatedly during the month. On the 21st, Hall endeavored to erect a magnetic observatory. Armou cut out the snow-blocks and sledged them to the center of a fresh-water pond about fifty yards from the igloo and covered with ice several feet in thickness. Hall assisted in the building, passing the blocks of snow, which on the back and on the north side of the building were placed in two tiers half way up, making a double wall to shield from * Lieutenant Hooper, R. N., second in command of Lieutenant PuUeu's Boat -Expedition from Icy Cape to Mackenzie River, spent the winter of 1849-'50 near Fort Franklin, on Bear Lake. He wrote in his journal : " I have heard the aurora, not once, Lut many times ; not faintly ■ and indistinctly, but loudly and unmistakably ; now from this quarter, now from that, now from one point on high, and at another time from one low down. At first it seemed to resemble tho sound of field-ice, then it was like the sound of a water-mill, and, at last, like the whirring of a cannon-shot heard from a short distance." But at a later date in his Arctic life Hooper says : " I fancied that I heard this auror.a, but the noise was indubitably produced by the cracking of the ice on the lake." "There is no satisfactory evidence," says Professor Loomis, "that the aurora ever emits an audible sound. The sound 8Ui)po8ed to have been heard has been described as a rustling, hiss- ing, crackling noise. But the most competent observers, w^ho have spent several winters in tho Arctic Regions, where auroras are seen in tluur greatest brilliancy, have been convinced that this MUi)posed rustling is a mere illusion. It is, therefore, inferred that tho sounds which have been ascribed to the aurora must have been duo to other causes, such as the motion of the wind, or tho cr.ackling of the snow and ico in cousoquonco of their low temperature. If tho aurora emitted any audible sound, this sound ought to follow the auroral movement after a considerable inter- val. Sound requires four minutes to travel a distance of ijO miles. But tho observers who report noises succeeding auroral movements make no mention of any interval. It is, therefore, inferred that the sounds which have been heard during auror.nl exhibitions are to bo ascribed to other causes than tho aurora." (Treatise on Meteorology, p. 186.) Hearno says that the Northern Indians call tho aurora cd-lhin, i. c, deer, from their hav- ing seen hairy doer-skin, when briskly stroked, emit electric sparks. Tho Southern Indians Ixilieve it to bo tho spirits of departed friends dancing. When the aurora varies in color and form, they say their deceased friends .-ire rv ci/ merry. 4»cteber, 1S64.] Ftrst Sleihjc THp. 85 the coldest gales. A large snow-block fashioned into a column 3 feet in height was set upright in the center of the observatory, and its top rounded off by another block. The whole was made into solid ice by pouring water on it. The house was now ready for the dip circle which had been loaned by the United States Coast Survey. The circle was unfortunately broken before it could be used with success.* Discovering that his ink was frozen solid, he tried the successful experiment of boiling down about a pint to a thick paste, obtaining, by diluting this, a supply for his present use, and preserving his ink- powder and anti-freezing ink, the gift of the American Bank Note Company of New York. ESKIMO SLED. On the 22d a sledge journey of 10 miles was made down the Welcome, to give the hungry dogs of the Innuits a full meal from a whale's carcass. The runners of this sled, made of 2 -inch plank, were 16 feet long, each being shod with bone from the jaw of a whale. Its 15 cross-bars made of staves, each 3 feet 4 inches long and 5 inches * Before Hall left New York Mr. James Green, instrunient-maker, set tip tliis circle on ground adjoining Mr. Kutlierfurd's obser\'atory and went through a set of observations and of explanatory instruction with Hall.. 86 The First Musk-ox Hunt. [October, i8e4. wide, were lashed to the top of the runners by strong strips of wah-us- hide. This play of the runners makes the Eskimo sled superior to all others in its flexibility over hummocky ice. Their depth was 9 inches, and the width of the sled outside of them, 3 feet. The four Innuits, Ou-e-la, Ar-too-a, Nu-ker-zJioo, and Oong-oo-too, accompanied Hall, the dog team being made up of fifteen dogs. Un- able to find the whale by reason of the quantity of pack-ice which had been forced on shore, the party crossed a bight and succeeded in satis- fying the dogs from the carcasses of two bears, which were with diffi- culty uncovered from a frozen mass of stones. Making upon the rocks a scanty meal from what they had brought with them without touch- ing the bear-meat, they lighted their pipes and took a good smoke. Then placing some provision within two deer skins which were made up by thongs into rolls to be drawn by the dogs, they started on a westerly course inland to visit some of the reindeer deposits. The sled was left behind. A more exciting scene now offered itself Ou-e-la soon discov- ered the tracks of musk-oxen, and brought up the whole party by his cries of ^^ Oo-ming-mung, Oo-ming-mungr Quickly deciding that the tracks were not very old, and that the animals might be sighted, they entered on what the natives regard as their great hunt. The tracks freshened. The animals were not, however, sighted during the day. The party had to get up an igloo and retire to rest with but a scanty meal of about 3^ ounces for each man, part of which consisted of "casino." Outside of the igloo, the thermometer showed 16° and inside, 25°; a temperature pronounced uncomfortable by the four warm-blooded Innuits and the one pale-face, all of whom slept closely sandwiched. October. 1804.] Tlw Fifst Musk-Ox Hunt. 87 Hall's head and shoulders were between two of his friends, while his feet and legs were mixed up with those of the other two. Early in the morning, after smoking in bed, his companions gave him the only breakfast which could be had — the marrow melted during the night from a few reindeer-bones kept close by their flat stone lamp. They then slaked their thirst from a lakelet, cutting the ice to the depth of 18 inches, and resumed their hunt. Following the tracks which led in different directions, at one time southwardly toward the "Great Sea" (Hudson's Bay), and at others for long distances over hill and valley, at length they descried two animals on the top • of a hill at the opposite end of a lake. The dogs were immediately loosed, but very soon some could not be prevented from turning aside to the tracks of reindeer. After considerable delay, however, they were again brought together by the cries of the Innuits, whose sharp, experienced eyes readily discriminated between the tracks of the reindeer and those of the musk-ox. The hoofs of both are as large as those of the common ox, and much the same in appearance; but the little knobs — fetlocks (?) — behind the hoofs are the tell-tale be- tween the tracks, those of the reindeer being more prominent and longer The stand-droppings of the deer are like those of the sheep; of the musk-cattle, "much like those from our cattle when dry- fed." The party at this time had much difficulty in the pursuit, the snow being too soft to support their weight. As much as possible of the route was selected over the bare rocks, in passing over which they came frequently to places where the musk bull or cow had pawed through the snow and fed upon the grass and mosses of the soil; unmistakable signs also appeared of their having lain down and rested 88 A Fox Caught in His Own Trap. [Ociokcr, i864. through the night. Two of the Innuits went forward to follow up the tracks to which some of the dogs had continued to keep close. Hall, with Ou-e-la and Ar-too-a, turned aside to visit a reindeer deposit. Noticing the tracks of a fox, on close examination they found a hole through a snow-bank which covered a cache, and on loosening some of the stones discovered a fox alongside of the meat within. He was dead and frozen hard as a rock. The hungry fellow had burrowed through the drift and forced his gaunt body in through a very small hole between the stones. But he had so gorged himself that it was impossible for him to get back through the hole by which he had entered. The meat was left untouched, for the Innuits cannot eat what a fox has meddled with. Oti-e-Ia led the way to another cache, which he opened, but only by a very severe hammering of one stone upon another to unloose the mass, locked up as it was by the ice A bountiful repast was made by the hungry travelers from the best parts of the meat, while the legs and head were re-cached for future use. Hall notes that the custom of the Innuits when making these deposits is to throw down the carcass of the slain deer, and then to place upon and around it the head, legs, shoulders, and saddle ; covering the whole with a heavy pile of stones. The frozen mass soon becomes so solid that any one but an Innuit would expect to separate it only by blasting, or by the use of the pick and the crow-bar. The Innuit perse- veringly divides it by using a wedge-shaped stone, on which he strikes his blows with another often weighing 100 pounds. After visiting this deposit, Ou-e-la catching up the distant sound of the dogs, by the use of Hall's glass descried his companions about four miles distant, standing by the side of a slain ox. The party again slaking their thirst at a lakelet, the water of which, as usual, was October, 1S64.] A Bear-Huvit. 89 filled with small vermin, soon joined their companions. The slain animal was immediately cut up and hauled to the igloo^ Avithin which all rested more comfortably on the night following, reposing on a part of their prize, the soft woolly skin, which felt like a feather-bed. Having no blubber for oil, they could have no light. In the morning, after making more than one meal on their fresh meat, they succeeded in getting their spoils to the place where they had left their sledge, which they now heavily loaded. An addition of reindeer and bear meat made up a weight in all of nearly 3,000 pounds, a heavy burden of 200 pounds for each of the dogs. They arrived at home early in the afternoon, the state of the weather having dissuaded them from pursuing the second musk-ox. The day following, after a long pursuit by eight of the Innuits and their boys with guns, spears, and dogs, the party at times travel- ing over very rough ice and then on the new sea-ice which in some places treacherously opened under them, a bear was slain by a third ball, after his taking to the open water A line passed through his jaws brought the carcass on the floe, where, the weight of the animal being reduced by removing his entrails, the prize was at last secured by being drawn by ropes fastened through his nose and to each of his fore paws over the thin ice and across the fissures to the firm land While Hall was assisting in dragging this bear, he repeatedly broke through the ice into the sea. His next trip was with two parties of the Innuits coasting on two sleds — one 10 feet in length, the other 6 — over ice so rough that "as they went along banging and thumping over it the very life seemed to be shaken out, and with difficulty they clung to the sleds." Arriving at a place where they, some time before, had made 90 A Dainty Feast. [October, j 864. a deposit under a boat, and turning it up by the use of the mast as a lever, the Innuits selected some needed things; among them a keg of blubber, which they presented to him. Their meal on this trip was again made on the skin from the tail of the black whale. Seals were seen, but, following their custom, the Innuits would not now hunt them, not having finished their work on the reindeer-skins. Until the walrus season begins, when they may have killed the bear or seal they only make a deposit of the animal. The supply of venison being still abundant, feasting in the village was an every-day affair. When the invitations were general, as on the 29th, the feast was held in two connected igloos, in one of which all the women sat, as usual, Turk fashion, on their snow-bench bed, while in the center lay a huge pile of raw frozen venison and tood-noo, reindeer-fat. In the other igloo the men crowded close together; the walls of both resounding with peals of laughter, above the confusion of tongues. When they began the feast, a large piece of venison was picked up by one and the edge of it taken between the teeth which answered admirably as a vice to hold it fast, while the knife in the right hand was plied with saw movements near the nose, cutting the meat downward, but with danger to nose and lips. In this way as large a piece of meat was cut off as could be gotten into a widely- distended mouth. The main piece was then passed to the next guest, who followed suit. The tood-noo, in its turn, was served in the same way. The eyes of the reindeer were a delicate morsel. A dish of reindeer heads and necks, boiled with water and a large quantity of reindeer-blood making rich soup, some- times closes the feast. Each guest takes a sup of this in turn until it is gone. The woman of the house then licks the ooJc-sook (pot), clean and prepares her own mess. The children are stuffed almost to suffo- October, 1 864.] Preparation of Reindeer- skins. 91 cation. The meals being finished, each one scrapes the grease from his face into his mouth and Hcks his fingers. Tlie Innuits busily employed themselves during the remainder of the open season in the preparation of reindeer-skins for dresses and bed-coverings ; their custom in this differing from that of the natives of Cumberland Sound, in the help given to the women by the men. The processes for this, Hall says, are ; first, to scrape the skin by an instrument called sek-koon (by the Frobisher Bay Innuits, teg-se- koon). This instrument is about 6 inches long, including the handle, Bone edge. Iron edge. SEK-KOONS Oli SKIN-SCKAPKUS, HALF SIZE. (Deposited by Hall at the Smithsonian Institution, Washington.) and is made of a peculiar kind of whet or oil stone, or else of musk-ox or reindeer bone, or of sheet-iron. The second step is to dry the skins thoroughly; the third, to scrape again with the sck-koon, taking off 92 An-koo-ting. loctobcr. is64. every bit of the flesh ; the fourth, to wet the flesh side and wrap it up for thirty minutes, and then again scrape with the sek-koon; which last operation is followed ]>y chewing the skin all over, and again scraping and cross-scraping with the instrument. These laborious processes Hall describes as resulting "in the breaking of the skin, making the stifl" hide soft-finished like the chamois-skin." The whole work is often completed within an hour. Within the week which followed, an-koo-ting was again practiced in the igloos. On two occasions Ebierbing earnestly pleaded that the an-ge-ko would relieve him from rheumatism with which he had severely suffered. With Hall's consent he propitiated the an-ge-ko by the present of one of his two-quart tin coffee-buckets. When the hour came, a large deer-skin was suspended in the back part of the igloo. The an-ge-ko, who on this occasion proved to be Ar-too-a, entered with three men and the old woman Ook-har-loo, and immediately asked that the light on the table, where Hall had seated himself to take notes, should be put out. The wide-extended wick of the Eskimo lamp also was thumbed down, except a bit at one end, which gave just light enough to make the scene gloomy and cold. The an-ge-ko then took off his boots, and, standing on the bed-place, made a speech of about ten minutes, during which Mother Ook-har- loo' s musical voice in the well-known song, "Am-na-yu-ya," contrasted strangely with the hoarse tones of the an-ge-ko, who sometimes made the dome of the snow-house shake. Ebierbing cried out from time to time, ^^At-tee! At-teef^' (Good ! Good ! goon). ^w-<7e-A-o then slipped quietly behind the curtain and made a sort of fluttering with his mit- tened hands, occasionally uttering a few words which seemed to be in the tone of petition to the Great Unknown. When p]bierbing was October, 1S64.J Hall Awis at a Seal. 93 operated on a second time, the ceremony was essentially the same. The company patiently awaited the an-ge-Ms appearance for half an hour, when he entered humming an Eskimo song, and then retiring, re-entered with the same song in the low door-way, Ook-har-loo again striking up her monotony. Among his antics at this time he grappled with and, with a seeming supernatural strength, readily threw down two of the strongest Innuits. Ot this an-koo-ting the chant is the most striking feature; it is low and monotonous, and often broken by the suppressed sobs and moaning of the sick. The grim, swarthy faces of the men and w omen spectrally illuminated by the fitful gleams of the stone lamp, and their dark bodies swaying awkwardly to and fro and keeping time to the rude intona- tions of their barbarous songs, make up a wild and unearthly scene. The last day of October was comparatively wami ; the wind was southerly. From the top of a neighboring hill, Hall saw with his marine glass a number of seals, from two to three miles to the northeast, basking on a floe One of them especiall}^ tempted him, as it was seen very near hummocky ice, which might serve as a mask until he could get within rifle-shot. Crossing the shallow bay, and trudging wearily over the very rougli ice in some places so massive as to hide the animal entirely from view, he at length again caught sight of it by peering from the height of a pile of ice that had been thrown up by pressure. But before he could come within rifle-shot, he was compelled to wind his way through a labyrinth of high masses of old ice from the far north which had grounded here, and were keeping the new ice between them in a dangerous state for traveling. The ice over which he walked was covered, too, with crystals which 94 Meteorological Ohservafions. [Norember, i864. crisped so loudly under the foot that he could make his advance only while the seal was taking its cat-naps, which he found to vary from half a minute to a minute each only; he watched for these very closely. To secure a good position and a support for his rifle, he was obliged at last to throw himself flat on the ice, and hitch himself along, Eskimo fashion. In this way he got within fair range, and, peer- ing through a crevice in the hummock, saw the seal shake its flippers, roll from side to side, and then drop its head for what he hoped would be its last nap. After taking careful aim, he thought for a few seconds that he surely had his prize ; but on firing, the seal with one bound plunged handsomely through its hole into the sea, leaving him only the grim satisfaction of finding enough oil at the hole to show that his shot had taken eff'ect. He knew that unless a seal is killed at the instant, it is lost ; for it lies close to its hole, and generally with its head hanging over the edge, ready for a plunge. A deep fissure in the ice before him prevented any further efforts in this direction. The 1st of November was a day of storm, the wind blowing a gale and the snow flying furiously. Hall commenced making his me- teorological observations seven times a day. He had previously to this registered three times only ; — morning, noon, and niglit. He now added the hours 3 a. m., 9 a. m., 3 p. m., and 9 p. m. Nine of the thermometers presented to him by Tagliabue, of New York, were still at his command. They agreed well at the higher temperatures, but below zero their differences showed as much as ten degrees. He suc- ceeded in neatly repairing his sextant, using the tube of a broken ther- mometer as a blow-pipe and some "magic salve" as a flux. On renewing his plans for the coming season, the Innuits pro- posed to make their way early to Iwillik for their own purposes. November, 1864.] The IfinuUs Will go to liepulse Bay in the Spring. 95 The first stopping-place on their route would be Oo-koo-ish-e-lik, Wager Bay, where they would build igloos and hunt the nuisk, the bear, and the seal. Quite early in the season a passage could be made by boats along the land-ice to Repulse Bay. Hall thought that he could go on with them to Neitchillej and there learn the best way of advancing his original plans, which, however, he already saw would require length of time, particularly to gain the sufficiently strong con- fidence of the Innuits to induce them to accompany him to King William's Land. His record says : "I must not say I will do so and so, but rather say I will do the work I came to perform (God helping me), take whatever time it Avill." Up to the 10th of the month his party had opened but a small part of the provision brought from the Monticello, and he had given the larger share of this, including 00 pounds of pemmican, to his Innuit friends. But in turn he had been so generously feasted on reindeer, that he thought if he could live " one-fifth as well " during the remainder of his stay, he would have nothing to complain of CUP AND BALL. (Deposited at tlie Smitlisouian Institution.) The tribe was far from lacking a natural love of amusement. They had learned the games of checkers and dominos, doubtless from 96 The Key-low-tik. [November, 18t>4. the whalers, and it seemed possible to teach them chess. A favorite game was that of the cup and ball. They gave him an amusing exhibition of one of their serio-comic diversions. This was a performance on the key-low-tik, their bass- drum; the only musical instrument which he found among them. The instrument itself, and the changing characters from the comic and gro- tesque to the serious and superstitious, carried through the perform- ances by both men and women, are described at some length. PLAYING THE KEY-LOW-TIK. The drum is made from the skin of the deer, which is stretched over a hoop made of wood, or of bone from the fin of a whale, b}^ the November, 1S64.] Preparation of the Key-Join-t'ik. 97 use of a strong braided cord of sinew passed around a groove on the outside. The hoop is about 2^ inches wide, 1| inches thick, and 3 feet in diameter, the whole instrument weighing about 4 pounds. The wooden drumstick, 10 inches in length and 3 inches in diameter, is called a hen-toon. KEY-LOW-TIK. Hall gives, in substance, this account of the process of prepar- ing the hey-low-tik : The deer-skin which is to be the head of the instrument is kept frozen when not in use. It is then thor- oughly saturated with water, drawn over the hoop, and temporarily fastened in its place by a piece of sinew. A line of heavy, twisted, sinew, about 50 feet long, is now wound tightly on the groove on the outside of the hoop, binding down the skin. This cord is fastened to the handle of the Jcey-low-tik, which is made to turn by the force of several men (while its other end is held firmly), and the line eased out as required. To do this a man sits on the bed-platform, " having one or two turns of the line about his body which is incased in furred deer-skins, and empaled by four upright pieces of wood." Tension is secured by using a round stick of wood as a lever on the edge of the skin, drawing it from beneath the cord. When any whirring sound is S. Ex. 27 7 98 Playing the Key-low-tih. [ivoTcmbcr, is64. heard, little whisps of reindeer-hair are tucked in between the skin and the hoop, until the head is as tight as a drum. When the Jcey-low-tik is played, the drum-handle is held in the left hand of the performer, who strikes the edge of the rim opposite that over which the skin is stretched. He holds the drum'in different posi- tions, but keeps it in a constant fan-like motion by his hand and by the blows of the ken-toon struck alternately on the opposite sides of the edge. Skillfully keeping the drum vibrating on the handle, he accompanies this with grotesque motions of the body, and at intervals with a song, while the women keep up their own Innuit songs, one after another, through the whole performance. At this first exhibition which Hall witnessed some twenty-five men, women, and children — every one who could leave home — assem- bled to see the skill of the performers, who would try the newly-fin- ished instrument. As usual, the women sat on the platform, Turk fashion ; the men, behind them with extended legs. The women were gaily dressed. Tliey wore on each side of the face an enormous pig- tail, made by wrapping their hair on a small wooden roller a foot in length ; strips of reindeer-fur being wrapped with the hair. These were black and white for those who had sons, and black only for those who had none. Shining ornaments were worn on the head, and on the breast they had masonic-like aprons, the groundwork of which was of a flaming red color, ornamented with glass beads of many colors. The women thus presented a pleasing contrast with the dark visages of the men in the background ; while their naked infants were playing here and there in a mother's lap, or peering out from their nestling place in a hood, Ook-har-loo was the first performer. This young man was a son November, 1864.] Playing tJic Keij-low-tik 99 of JEver-at, whose picture is given in Parry's Narrative of his second voyage, and who is named by him as helping to draw one of the charts. When OoJc-lar-Ioo was tired out, Oon-goo-too took up the keg- loiv tik, the women striking up for him their second song. Ou-e-Ja now gave Hall a punch in the side, which was understood to mean, "Just see what my people can do '' ; when the performers, stripping off their jackets to be naked from their loins up, alternately dealt each other's arms such fearful blows that Hall thought their very bones must be broken, and seemed to feel his own shoulders ache. The one who had played the key-Iow-tiJc the longer now struck his blows without mit- tens, and Ook-har-loo ere long gave signs of surrender. The times varied from 10 to 13 minutes each. Ar-too-a, Ar-mou, and Gii-e-la followed as performers at short in- tervals, one of them making as high as a hundred and sixty strokes in a minute with the ken-toon. Then Nu-ker-^Jioo, getting his hand under the key-low-tik, and dealing rapid blows first on one edge and then on the other, by this jugglery kept it vibrating in the air and brought out from it the same sounds as when played in the usual way. Hall, being then called out by the house, tried his hand, but for less than three minutes, when the key-low-tik was on the floor, his arm and wrist ach- ing from the weight, and the whole igloo convulsed with laughter. Ebierbing was called for, but was too weak from recent sickness to perform. Before this part of the exhibition closed, the performers showed up the differences in playing as practiced by the neighboring tribes. The meeting now suddenly changed to one of a serious character. Ook-bar-loo, when he resumed playing, instantly extinguished the lights, leaving only the dim moon to creep in through the fresh-water-ice 100 A Move to the Walrus- Grounds. [woTcmbcr, ise-i. window of the 'ifjioo. He then commenced his talk with the spirits, accompanied by clapping of hands, jumping up and down, sideways and forwards, and then backing out from the ifjioo and returning. During all this an-koo-ting one and another of the audience kept repeating "words which seemed not unlike those of a penitent giving in his experience at a revival meeting." By the middle of this month the Innuits had finished their work on the reindeer-skins. Too-ko-li-too had labored for thirty days, fifteen hours out of the twenty-four, during which time, with but little assist- ance from Ebierbing even in cleaning the skins, she had made up, besides bedding, seven complete fur suits ; two for Hall, two for her husband, two for herself, and one for Rudolph. Preparation was now busily made for moving ofi" to the walrus-grounds, the first step toward which was to cover the sledge-runners with muck, a kind of peat obtained from a marsh after digging four feet tkrough the snoAv and about a foot into the frozen ground. The muck is saturated with water, and a handful at a time placed on the runners at the very coldest hour, to ice them. Several families moved ofi" on the 15tli. Ebierbing, who went forward with them to assist in erecting igloos, saw flocks of ducks moving south. The first huts Avhich were built were four connected ones having a common central place. In Hall's, Too-koo-li-too first covered the snow-bed place with boards, and put over these a quantity of dry shrubs and the reindeer-furs. Before Elall had left his old hut, on learning that the Innuit customs forbade the burning of shrubs in a new home, he had roasted enough coff"ee for a supply of two months. And before leaving the first igloo he had made the honest record in his journal, that on a visit from Ou-e-la November, 1864.) SuperstlUon. 101 and Ar-tnou, they, with Ebierbing and himself, indulged with great freedom in the use of Hubbell's Golden Bitters, the indorsement on which is, "Good for dyspepsia." "Although the bitters were as thick as molasses, it was difficult to get it from the bottles quick enough to supply the demand." The next morning was one of headache and repentance to some ; yet the natives declared they had never been so liappy as on the night before. Long before this, however, they had learned from the whalers to drink, smoke, and swear. On entering their new igloos the Innuits renewed their perform- ances of the hey-low-tik and of an-koo-ting. In the latter of these performances the an-ge-JiO (Ar-too-a) now made use of three walrus spears. One of these he thrust into the wall of the snow-house, ' and, after the usual accompaniments which have been already described, ran with it outside of the igloo, where his ejaculations were responded to by the party inside with the cries of ^^At-tee! At-tee !'''' Returning with his spear to the door, he had a severe wrestling match with four of the men, who overcame him. But coming again into the central igloo, and having the lights which had been at the first patted down, relit, he showed the points of two spears apparently covered with fresh blood, which he held up in the pres- ence of all. Muttering something in a low tone at them, he gave a puff and then wiped them clean with the Innuits' universal dish-cloth — the tongue. The an-ge-ko then recommenced his incantations, address- ing for a minute or so, with his head erect, the Great Power above, and then, with head on the floor, the Spirit below. Kneeling on Too- koo-li-too's fur jacket in the center of the hut, he kept this up for a full half hour. After his exhibition had closed. Hall learned that the Spirits had revealed to the an-ge-ko that he and Ebierbing must exchange 102 Hall An-koo-ted. [IVovcmber, 18U4. wives for the night* This, Hall effectually intervened to forbid. He records, also, the clear testimony of the wife of one of the Innuits in behalf of Too-koo-li-too herself that she had repelled the previously attempted efforts on the part of the other women to persuade her to accept the decree. In a time of sickness during the month Hall himself had been prevailed on to be an-kooted, and the an-ge-ho had told him that his sickness had been owing to his having eaten on his first expedition tood-noo prepared in a wrong way, and to the fact that he had left in his own country an enemy who had tried to do him harm. When he acknowledged that these two things were true, the Innuits were much pleased with the evidence of power in their an-ge-ko, and Hall con- sented to obey the decree given him, that he should never again wear certain garments which had been presented to him by some of his Innuit friends. During the last days of the month several walrus hunts were entered upon, the first success in which was prevented by the poorness of the seal-skin lines which had been made to supply the loss of the stronger ones missed some time before from their place of deposit. From unmistakable signs noticed when they had gone down the coast for these lines, the natives were satisfied that they had been stolen by some party from one of the whale-ships. Hall accompanied them on * Heame says of the ludian tribes on the Sea of the North : " It is a very common custom in this country to exchange a night's lodging -with each other's -wives ; but this is so far from being considered criminal that it is esteemed one of the strongest ties of friendship between the two families ; in case of the death of either man the other considers himself bound to support the children of the deceased. This duty is never neglected. (Heame, p. 120.) Father Veniamlnotl', a Russian priest, who labored among the Aleutian tribes, is quoted by Mr. Dall as saying that formerly they practiced frequent secret orgies, and that "nf/ucHt shared all marilnl rif/his u-iih his host." These customs, however, as is well known, are not exclusively those of the North Ameri- can tribes. December, 1864.1 Followifig up tlic Walrus. 103 their hunts, although he had been several times confined to his igloo by a sore throat and by bruises received on his rough sledge-journeys. He endeavored to supply the loss of the walrus-lines by loaning the sheets of his boat Sylvia. A bear and a number of walruses were secured ; others which were only struck on the ice were lost during the nights, when they escaped by the tide setting the floe back to the land. But the condition of the ice was fine for hunting, and the promise for the season was good. Hall notices that on each morning, after the men had gone off to hunt, their women took each a cup down to the shore and left it there ; probably under the idea that this would bring success. On the Gth of the month following, Ou-e-la and Ebierbing found a walrus of a large size butting his head through the ice, which was 4 inches thick, with a force sufficient to throw masses of it several feet into the air. On a signal to the other hunters they scattered themselves, watching for another appearance. The animal burst through the ice six times before he was harpooned Generally, when pursued, he moves in a direct line, and the natives are accustomed to calculate where he will probably make his second or third rise. The holes which he works up through the ice are sometimes as far apart as 100 rods, but the distances decrease in proportion to the length of the pursuit, during which the animal is often drowned. The Innuits sometimes follow nearly the same plan in drowning ducks, though this is done when there is no ice to cover them. A flock which is swimming is approached by the hunter in a bj-ak, when most of them take alarm and fly away, but some dive down. The hunter rapidly follows in the probable direction in which the now submarine ducks are swimming, and the instant that one appears above water, it 104 Ou-C-IaS Stories. [December, 1 864. is frightened down by shouts and antic tricks in the way of motions. This one is selected as the victim or prize, and, as the hunter gets near it, he sees and follows it through the clear water. As often as it comes up to breathe, his shouts and motions follow, and thus the pur- suit is made till finally the poor duck is dead. Hall remembered that in 1861, when making a passage through the Beare Sound of Frobisher, some of his Innuit friends could not be restrained from pursuing this sport till they had deceived the ducks in the way described. " It certainly is an economical way to secure provision without the use of spears or guns." On the same day on which the walrus was secured, several of the natives had a desperate encounter with a huge Polar, killing it while three of their dogs kept the animal at bay. One of the lances which had entered the animal, he drew out with his teeth, and gave their best dog a terrible wound, cutting through the skin and flesh of his neck as clean as with a sharp knife. Oii-e-la, on returning from these hunts, entertained Hall with some huge bear-stories. With much emphasis he told of a woman who, a few years before, had heard a strange noise outside her igloo, and on leaving it, was seized by a large bear, who completely scalped her and disemboweled her child. An old man in the igloo, although a cripple in both legs, fastening a long knife to the end of a pole and crawling through the narrow passage-way of the hut at the doorway, braced liis lance against the icy floor, when the bear, Avhile springing toward his new victim, became his own executioner by receiving the knife directly through his heart. Ou-c-Ia further said that he had once, single-handed, killed a large bear with a lance only; at another time lie had killed a bear of ecpuil size with bow and airow, without the December, 1S64. J " T/«P ArC-Ia^ 105 assistance even of dogs. He had seen a bear kill a walrus by using a piece of ice weighing more than any one man could lift. The bear rounds the ice into a ball, and stealthily runs on his hind legs toward his sleeping victim ; if the first blow on the head of the walrus fails to kill, he finishes his work by repeated blows on the thick skull. He contents himself with the blubber only, leaving the mass of meat for the fox, or for other animals which may follow his tracks. A peculiar animal w^as described to Hall, an account of w^hich is scarcely to be found in Arctic books. The natives speak of it as being larger than the bear, and as very ferocious and much more diffi- cult to be killed. It has grayish hair, a long tail, and short, thick legs, its fore feet being divided into three parts like the partridge's; its hind feet are like a man's heels. When resting, it sits upright like a man. A Neitchille Innuit, crawling into a hole for shelter in the night, had found one sound asleep and quickly dispatched it with his knife. It may be added here that Ebierbing, now residing in the United States, confirms such accounts of the "-4rc-Za," and says that the animal once inhabited his native country on Cumberland Sound. On the morning of the 10th, Ebierbing, Ou-e-Ia, Ar-too-a, Ar- mou, Oon-goo-too, and Nu-ker-zJioOj accompanied by Rudolph, started on two sledges with full dog-teams to visit the whaling-vessels winter- ing in Depot Island — a contemplated trip which had been deferred only till the walrus season should commence. Rudolph was the hap- piest of the party. He had proved of little service to Hall, having early become dissatisfied with the strange mode of life to which his employer had habituated himself Yet he was at times a voracious eater, consuming as much as 8 pounds of solid food at a meal, and then complaining of a feeling of "gone-ness," and fearing he would starve 106 JRudoIph Dismissed. [Ucccmbcr, ise-i. to death. A part of the time he had been separately put in charge of one of the natives. He now looked forward with great satisfaction to resuming his life on shipboard and to ship-diet The parting was friendly. Hall gave him a letter to the captain of the Monticello, ask- ing that he would get a place for him on one of the whalers. Rudolph was also cautioned to liave care of himself on the sledge journey, and the natives were requested to see that he should not be frost-bitten. At the same time a confidential history of Rudolph's conduct was sent to the ship, lest the man should gain credit if he attempted to spread misrepresentations among the whalers. His dissatisfaction and his uselessness to Hall had been largely owing to his disease of homesick- ness and, during the latter part of his time, to an attack of scurvy. A second letter to Captain Chapel requested that he would grant, at Hall's cost, whatever reasonable requests the natives might make, if the value of the articles asked for by them sliould exceed that of the skins and clothing taken down by them for barter. Among the articles for which Hall himself asked were a gun, a spy-glass, some walrus-lines, and tobacco, with a loaf of bread and a piece of butter for Too-koo-li- too. He wanted 50 pounds of tobacco, for it went further than any- thing else in gaining the good-will and help of the natives. Ou-e-la waited for the dispatches, which were made up by 9 a. m., and then overtook the sleds a mile in advance out on the rough ice, where the dogs were howling and springing with all their might to be off. Hall went with him that far, and on parting gave Ou-e-Ia a kiss (koo-nik) on his iron though warm cheek. The journal says : The sun was just liftiug its glorious face from the ice horizon of Kowc's Wel- come. The air was calm and the temperature 92° below freezing-point by my large thermometer; therefore it was dry and exhilarating. The heavens, oi)posite the sun, were glowing iu warm crimson clouds, their upper edges tinted with purple December, 1S64.] Tlic NttUves Visit tilt WJiolers. 107 and silvery hues. The day throughout was the coldest of the season, as the ther- mometer showed, but not the coldest as far as its effect upon the human system is concerned. The average of three sets of observations on eight thermometers gave 65° below freezing-point as the average of the day. I have tried some experiments, perhaps too simple to require record. I put one of my fingers in contact with the brass i)late of oue of the thermometers; instantly I felt a sharp running sensation; in a few seconds that part of my flesh exposed to the brass plate was white as snow and frozen solid. A smart rubbing with my other hand soon took the frost out, and the finger was as well as ever. I placed another finger for thirty seconds in exposed mercurj^; the smarting at first was severe, in fact, felt as though the finger was in a fire, but before the thirty seconds expired the smarting ceased, and I felt noways disagreeable. On taking my finger out of the mercury, it was frozen solid as a rock; a smart persevering rubbing again took the frost out. I tried several times during the day the exi)eriment of keeping my hands unmittened, walking around thus for half an hour without their feeling very cold, and could have con- tinued with my hands thus exposed for a longer time had I been on a smart walk, as when traveling on a jour- ney. When there is no moisture in the air, as to-day, no dog-skin otttens. one would suppose the temperature as cold as the thermometers indicate. I have felt colder in the States with the thermometer 32° than here in my walks to-day with hands and face exposed and having no other coat on but my civilization (Brevoort) one. The letter of the most interest sent by the natives to the whalers reads as follows : WiNTEE QUAKTEKS, IN IGLOO, Noo-WooK, West end Eowe's Welcobie, Lat. 04° 40' K, Long. 87° 20' W., Friday, December 10, 1864. Deab Feiend Chapel : In this letter I have some deeply interesting intelli- gence to communicate to you. Since falling in with the natives I have not been idle. Nothing in Parry's narrative of second voyage for the discovery of the North- west Passage relating to the Eskimos of Winter Island and Igloolik but these natives are perfectly posted up in. Indeed, I find through my superior interpre- ter, Too-koo-li- too, that many deeply interesting incidents occurred at both-named places that never found their place in Parry's or Lyon's works. But the great work already done by me is the gainuig little by little from these natives, through Too- koo-li- too and Ebierbing, news relating to Sir John Franklin's Expedition. This, 108 Further Reported News of Fran/dhi's 3Ien. [Ucccmber, i8«4. you know, was the great object of my mission to tlie North. I cannot stop to tell you now all I have gained of this people — no, not the one hundredth i)art. [The natives are now loading sledge; it is 7 o'clock 30 minutes a. m,] I wni give you very briefly what the people of England and America will be most interested to learn. When I come down I shall bring my dispatches and journals up to the time of writing you, and these will be committed to your care for transmitting to the States. The most important matter that I have acquired relates to the fact that there may yet be three survivors of Sir John Franklin's Expedition, and one of these, Crozier, the one who succeeded Sir John Frankhn on his death. The details are deeply interesting, but this must suflQce till I come down: Crozier and three men with him were found by a cousin of Ou-e-la (Albert), Slioo-she-ark-nooh (John), and Ar-too-a (Frank), whUe moving on the ice from one igloo to another; this cousin having with him his famUy and engaged in sealing. This occurred near Neitchille (Boothia Felix Peninsula). Crozier was nothing but " skin and bones," was nearly starved to death, while the three men with him were fat. The cousin soon learned that the three fat men had been Uving on human flesh, on the flesh of their companions who all deserted the two ships that were fast in mountains of ice; while Crozier was the only man that would not eat human flesh, and for this reason he was almost dead fi-om starvation. This cousin, who has two names (but I cannot stop to get them now), took Crozier and the three men at once in charge. He soon caught a seal, and gave Crozier quickly a little — a very little piece, Avhich was raw — only one mouthful the first day. The cousin did not give the three fat men anything, for they could well get along, till Crozier's life was safe. The next day the cousin gave Crozier a little larger piece of same seal. By the judicious care of this cousin for Crozier, his life was saved. Indeed, Crozier's own judgment stuck to him in this terrible situation, for he agreed with the cousin that one little bit was all he should have the first day. When the cousin first saw Crozier's face, it looked so bad — his eyes all sunk in, tlic face so skeleton-hkc and haggard, that he did not dare to look upon Crozier's face for several days after; it made him feel so bad! This noble man, wliom the whole civilized world will ever remember for humanity, took care of Crozier and his three men, save one who died, through the whole winter. One man, however, died a short time after the cousin found them, not because he starved, but because he was sick. In the spring, Crozier and the remaining two men accompanied this cousin on the Boothia I'elix Peninsula to Neitchille, where there were many Innuits. Crozier and each of his men had guns and a plenty of ammunition, and many pretty things. They killed a great many ducks, nmcyers, &c., with their guns. Here they lived with the Ininiits at Ncitchille, and Crozier December, 1864.] HolVs Letter to Chapel. 109 became fat and of good health. Crozier told this cousin that he was once at IiciUilc (Repulse Bay), at Winter Island and Igloolik, many years before, and that at the two last-named jjlaces he saw many Innuits, and got acquainted with them. This cousin had heard of Parry, Lyon, and Crozier, from his Inuuit friends at Eepulse Bay, some years previous, and therefore when Crozier gave him his name he recollected it. The cousin saw Crozier one year before he found him and the three men, where the two ships were in the ice. It Avas there that he found out that Crozier had been to Igloolik. Crozier and the two men lived with the Neitchille Innuits some time. The Innuits liked him (C.) very much, and treated him always very kindly. At length Crozier, with his two men and one Innuit, who took along a Male (?) [an India- rubber boat, as Ebierbing thinks it was, for aU along the ribs there was some- thing that could be filled with air], left Neitchille to try to go to the Tioh-lu-nah country, taking a south course. When Ou-ela (Albert) and his brothers, in 1854, saw this cousin that had been so good to Crozier and his men, at Pelly Bay which is not far from Neitch- ille, the cousin had not heard whether Crozier and the two men and Neitchille Innuit had ever come back or not. The Innuits never think they are dead — do not believe they are. Crozier ottered to give his gun to the cousin for saving his life, but he would not accept it, for he was afraid it would kill him, it made such a great noise, and killed everything with nothing. Then Crozier gave him a long, curious knife (sword, as Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too say it was), and many pretty things besides. [The dogs are all in harness, and sledges loaded, and Innuits waiting for my letters. I promise to be ready in 30 minutes.] Crozier told the cousin of a tight with a band of Indians — not Innuits, but Indians. This must have occurred near the entrance of Great Fish or Back's Eiver. More of this when I see you. # # # God bless you. C. F. HALL. This unusually ill-written letter is quoted almost literally in order to show Hall's excited state of mind on receiving some of the earliest of what he then believed to be news of Franklin's party. It will appear in the latter part of the Narrative that the "cousin," so much spoken of, was found by Hall to have been far less useful or humane to Crozier than is here noted. Hall's readiness to believe everything heard from the natives on his first acquaintance with them was largely 110 Superstitions. [Wecembcr, 1864. corrected by his further experience. At first he seems to have beheved what he wished to beheve. But his later journals record a number of corrected judgments, always frankly entered, and even against himself Nearly all the men were now absent from the settlement. After one unsuccessful attempt made by some of the natives who remained, to secure a walrus where the ice was found too thick for the animal to break through, a second effort was rewarded by their capturing the larger part of one, the remainder being lost by the ice-floes coming together and massing upon it. They had resumed their hunt in consequence of having seen, the night before, '' a walrus springing right up through the ice-floor of their igloo"; — to them a sure sign of success. Another instance of their low superstitious customs was thus shown : The pale-face, having expressed a desire for a change of food, was presented with the head and neck of a reindeer, for fear that there would be great trouble in catching a walrus ; but this provision could be placed neither on the floor nor behind the lamps on the platform, nor could it be either cooked or eaten with walrus-oil or on the same day with walrus-meat. Pieces of the frozen mass were, therefore, chipped off on the bed-platform with carefulness that not one should fall upon the floor, and they were dipped in old rancid seal-oil before being eaten. Four quarts of Avalrus-oil were at the same time pre- sented to Hall for his lamp. A leaf from Hall's journal of the 18th, written on receiving this present, will further show the care which he exercised in subjecting himself to the low superstitions of the tribe : Erh-tu-a came in bringing in Ler arms the head a\id neck (raw, solid, and frozen) of a reindeer for me, as slie heard that I wanted a change from walrus- December, 1S64.J SuperstiUonS. Ill meat. This venison had to be completely enveloped before it eonld be brought into the igloo, and, when in, conld only be placed on the bed-platform. To have placed it on the floor or on the platform behind the fire-lamp, among the walrus, musk-ox, and polar-bear meat which occupy a goodly portion of both of these places, would have horrified the whole town, as, according to the actual belief of the Innuits, not another walrus could be secured this year, and there would ever be trouble in capturing any more. Old Mother OoJc-bar-loo and the son of Erl:-tu-a were both in my igloo at the time this present was made. Both these parties are, of course, greatly devoted to having everything according to the way of old — in other words, according to the custom of their fathers and many preceding generations. They watched my every movement ; but I was no small adei)t in this matter, so I pro- ceeded to gratify the calls of a hungry stomach in the following manner : I first unveiled Erlctuah gift on the very spot where she had placed it, and called for a hatchet. Frozen chips of meat now flew to the right and left, ivestward ; not one toward the floor. I had to be very, very cautious about that. These chips of raw frozen venison, when gathered up, made quite a pile for my breakfast. A cup of oil in which to sop these chips was soon near me. Then I proceeded, just as any Innuit would, to eat a hearty meal! The oil which I used as the sop was seal-oil, rancid and stinking. According to Innuit custom, walrus-blubber, or oil from it, cannot be used on any account with tood-noo meat. Notwithstanding the oil I used was of the condition I describe, yet I must state the truth that I have really got so far along in Innuits taste to like it thus, and to like it very much. Particles of meat that were scattered around on the bed-platform during my carving operations with the hatchet could not be brushed on the floor, as this woidd have brought down the indignation of my houseful of visitors. The tooJc- too skins on which these fine dust jiieces were had to be taken up and shaken at the farther end or back side of the bed-place, next to the wall of the igloo. In this way, and in this ico.y only, coidd the meat particles, including even such snow and ice as had been jammed off the neck and head, be disposed of to the satisfac- tion of an honest, kind-hearted, but superstitious people. The head of this gift, I regret to learn, cannot be cooked now, though from it I could have a delicious soup. The whys and wherefores are that it woidd make ti'ouble among the walrus. It can be done after the walrusing season is over, and any time before it begins again. This Erk-tu-a was one of the visitors to the ships of Parry and Lyon on their Second Expedition, 1821 to 1823. She gave Hall the 112 Oo-oo-took on Parry's Ship, 1824. [December, is64. Innuit tradition of a punishment mentioned in Parry's Narrative as administered for theft, which story is an illustration of the power of superstitious belief held by this people in their an-ge-ko ; — or, as this word was pronounced at Ig-'loo-lik, where Parry was, an-nat-ko. Oo- oo-took, a superior an-nat-ko, was charged by Parry when at Ig-loo-lik with the crime of theft for taking a shovel, or a part of one, from along- side of the ship. Parry had him taken to a place between decks, and his hands firmly lashed up to the mast. Then two guns were loaded and fired at him. The balls did not hit him, but one passed close to his head and lodged in the mast. The other ball went close to his loins, but did not injure Irim. The guns were so near his body that the powder felt hot. Parry fired one of the guns, and came very near killing himself, the ball glancing and rebounding in such a way that it passed close to his head. Another gun was about to be used in firing at Oo-oo-took, but it was found to be cracked (both barrel and stock), and, therefore, it was laid aside. Then Parry caused him to be whipped with something that was made of ropes with knots in them — cat-o'-nine-tails. The Innuits standing around and witnessing all this wanted to help Oo-oo-took defend himself, but he said: "Let the Koh- lu-nas try to kill me ; they cannot, for I am an an-nat-ko^ Then Oo- oo-took^s hands were untied, after which the koh-lu-nas tried to cut his head and hands off with long knives — probably swords. Every time a blow was struck, the extreme end of the knife came close to Oo-oo- took'' s throat ; occasionally the blade came just above the crown of his head, and when the attempt was made to cut off his hands the long knife came down very near his wrists ; but, after all, he was uninjured because he was a very good An-nat-ko. Some of the blows, however, did execution, cutting deep gashes in throat, head, and wrists ; bat at December, 1S64. J Oo-oo-tooli 0)1 Parry' s Sliip^ 1824. 113 each stroke, as the knife was lifted, the wounds instantly healed icp, the an-nat-ko being- made whole by the Good Spirit who protected him. When Oo-oo-took was permitted to go on deck, he attempted to go ashore. He was passing out of the gangway when four men seized him ; but during the struggle to free himself from further punishment, he kicked one koh-lu-na down the snow-steps, which fall nearly killed him, and the koh-lu-na suffered with a lame back for a long time. Finally, the koh-lu-na conquered him and put him down between decks, in a cold, dark place, where he kept him two days and two nights, but while so confined, one good koh-lu-na, in a very sly way, gave him something to eat; otherwise he had nothing to eat or drink. After Oo-oo-took had been one day and one night in the dark hole, he thought he would use his power as an an-nat-ko, and destroy the vessel by splitting it tlu'ough the middle from stem to stern. So he commenced calling to his aid the Good Spirit, when a great cracking- noise was made, now and then, under the ship, and at the end of the two days and two nights' confinement, the koh-lu-nas, fearing from such great and terrific noises that the ship would be destroyed, let Oo-oo-took go. This tradition, which Hall says was believed by all the other In- nuits around him, is in rather curious contrast with the account given by Parry himself, which is as follows : [Official Narrative, p. 412.] Tlie delinquent was, therefore, put down into the Fiiry's store-room passage and closely confined there for several hours ; when, having collected several of the natives on board the Fury, I ordered him to be stripped and seized up in theii' presence, and to receive a dozen lashes on the back with a cat-o'-nine-tails. The instant this was over, his countrymen called out, " Ti-mun, iimun-na^ — S. Ex. 27- 6 114 Hall Corrects his Dates. [Deceiub^T, is64. that's light, tluit's right ; and seemed much relieved from the fright they hud before been in while the fate of the thief seemed doubtful; but in three minutes after, not one of them Avas to be found near the ships, for they hurried off to the huts as fast as their legs and sledges could carry them. The example proved just what we desired ; in less than eight and forty hours, men, women, and children came to the ships with the same contidence as before, always abasing Oo-oo-iooJc, l)rouonnciug themselves and us uncommonly good people, but evidently more cautious than before of really incurring our displeasure The occurrence just related; instead of being placed to the account of these peoj^le's bad i)ropeusi- ties, rather served to remind us of the rareness of such occurrences, and, there- fore, to furnish fresh proof of their general honesty. From a conversation held about this time, through Too-koo-li- too as interpreter, Hall believed that he had gained the key to the fact mentioned by Dr. Rae in his report to the Hudson Bay Com- pany in 1854, that the natives at Pelly Bay had great objections to his party traveling across the country in a westerly direction, and had attempted to puzzle and mislead the interpreter. Hall was told that " some of the Innuits with whom he was wintering, had tried, together with others from Pelly Bay, to persuade Dr. Rae to go to Shartoo, an island in Akkoolee Bay (the island called Prince of Wales Island, and the bay, Committee Bay, in Dr. Rae's chart), where lie would find spars, rigging, casks, and boxes, and perhaps the hulk of a vessel. They understood from him that these were the very things he was looking for." The Innuits, therefore, professed that the objec- tions referred to had been made in good faith, and in order to lead Rae's party to the best locality. On the 23d, Hall discovered that he had lost a day in his reckon- ing. He had not confided in his dates for some time back, but now found the means for a, correction. Going to the top of n hill to see the sun rise at 10 a m., he saw it about a diameter and a Dcct-uibcr, 1864.] G^fts Received froui the Whalers. 115 half from the horizon, above a low, thick bank of frost-smoke which hung over the sea-ice. Through the upper margin of the frost-smoke the true sun was clearly seen without any dazzling rays; but, above, two mock-suns showed themselves with a brilliancy overpowering the eye. With his pocket sextant he measured the angular distance between the nearest limbs of the sun and the moon, and found it to be approximately 62° 30'; which he verified by the use of his larger sextant. His table of lunar distances in the Nautical Almanac showed this as the true distance for December 23d in place of the 22d, as he had at first supposed the day to be. Looking over his journal, he discovered that the lost day could be accounted for by the want of all notes on one of his sick days, November 25. The sledge party now returned, and were heartily welcomed as soon as their very quiet entrance was noticed. One of the sleds hav- ing become unmanageable by the breaking off of the muck-shoeing, the dogs had found it hard work to draw the heavy return load of natives and goods piled up on the other one; their fatigue had pre- vented the howling usual on their approaching home. Two chests and a box, directed to Hall, were soon slid along through the snow passage-way into his igloo. They contained a variety of donations from Captains Chapel, of the Monticello ; Rogers, of the Concordia; White, of the Black Eagle; Tyson, of the Ante- lope, and Jeffries, of the George and Mary. Besides the very wel- come provision which made up the mass of these gifts, a quantity of different-colored beads and brass ornaments for the head had been sent as presents to the women, together with some articles to be exchanged for furs. In his record of the day, which not unfrequently is found written as thougli it were a letter to his two never-forgotten 116 TJie Innuits Fond of Ardent Spirits. (December, isc4. friends, the following expressions show his appreciation of the change in diet now experienced : O, my dear Mr. Grinnell and Mr. Brevoort, what a glorious supper we have had to-night; a change now and then in his food is what a white man likes. In- deed, the Innuits themselves like a change from their food to that of civilization after getting a little accustomed to it. The journal of the 24th contains the record of a second indul- gence to the natives in his serving out to all who had assisted in build- ing his new igloo a quantity of Bourbon whisky, diluted with hot water and sweetened with sugar. This was dealt out contrary to his previous resolutions, but under the idea that, as they had acquired a taste for it from the whalers, it would be of service to him to indulge them occa- sionally. He adds: "I have found that I can do without liquor, and I do not touch a drop of anything stronger than tea or coffee. I will not say the Innuits shall not have a few drops once in two or three weeks, but the quantity to each shall be very small." The sledge journey to the ships, 135 miles distant, had been made in ninety-nine hours, and the return journey in seventy-eight; allow- ing, as did Ebierbing, one of the party, one-half of the time on their return as spent in stoppages, the average distance traveled had been about three and a half miles an hour. Captain Chapel sent back to Hall a letter of cordial good feeling, offering him further assistance. It has been already noticed as a fact, well known in New London, that the whalers wintering in this region understood the instructions of their employers as authorizing them to assist him very freely. Chapel's letter, in speaking of the temperature where he was win- tering, said : The mercury has l)ccn from 36° to 56"^ below zero for the last fiftoon days. The glass has not boon above —32° for twenty days, and the large spirit tlior- December, 1864.] Decrec oftJie An-ge-ko. 117 inometer you gave me, and in whicli I put so much confidence, has been frozen for three Aveeko. It froze with the mercury at — 30°, aud when the mercury stood at 34° below, the spirit was 100° below. This would surprise our New York friends if we should tell them. * An invitation having been given to the men while visiting the ships that they should return and bring their wives with them, Hall was glad to find that, at the next an-koot-ing, the an-ge-ko announced an order from the Good Spirit that these visits should not be made, lest death after death should occur in the tribe. In addition to other plain reasons for his being gratified at this decree, there was now a better hope that the whole party would move early in the spring to Eepulse Bay. He felt sure that his further plans, which depended on this, would be defeated if these visits were made. On the 25th, he took a meridian altitude of the sun, and found the true altitude to be 1° 51'; the observed lowest limb to sea-ice horizon, 2°. The observation was made from an elevation 30 feet above the sea-level. Although the sun was quite too low for reliable work, yet the latitude found by working up the observation was G4° 43' 45", an approximation he little expected, as the true latitude is 64° 46' 20". On the 26th, he went out with the natives on a walrus-hunt, to observe the movements of the ice in the Welcome as well as to see the walrus and the hunters The following account of the hunt is largely condensed from his own notes : At 8 a. m. he left his igloo, leading by a long trace-line one of "111 conncctiou with notes of like extreme teiiipcratnros and the unreliahility of l)oth mer- curial and spirit thermometers, see "The last of the Arctic Voyages," by Sir Edward Belcher, 18.55, pp. 20iV208; also, notes of a like character in other Arctic Narratives, including Sir George Nares' " Voy.age to the Polar Sea." Hall's ovni journal has a nnmber of snch records; also of his repeated regrets that he had other than standard instruments with him. 118 The Walrus-Hunt. (December, 1 864. the large dogs which were to be employed in dragging the walrus home; several other dogs were led by the Innuits, but by far the larger number were allowed to run loose, preceding or following the hunters. The distance to the walrus-grounds had been for some time constantly increasing as the land-floe widened, and the animals, accord- ingly, shifted their feeding-grounds to the new ice or to the fissures near its edge. Having crossed the half-mile belt of very rough ice near the coast, and advanced about six miles, Hall came, to this edge. A breeze from the north was driving the floe to the southward at the speed of a quick walk, and as it pressed heavily on the edge of the fixed ice, the noise was so terrible that he was at times forced to draw himself back several paces from the point to which he had ventured. For scores of miles to the north and south, the drifting floe was grind- ing its uneven face against the firm but jagged front on which ho stood. Mounting a high ridge of ice, he saw, as far as the eye could reach seaward and up and down the Welcome, a boundless field slowly moving onward toward the south, but crushing to atoms miles and miles of massive ice ; now rearing up mountains on mountains, now plowing up acres into high ridges. Ou-e-la, who had joined him, was unable to reach a large walrus which rose in a small water-space five fathoms off", for the " squeezed, rolling, craunching mass" was working between the floes, lie gave a quick signal to those on the drifting floe, and Ar-mou and Ar-too-a ran rapidly toward the walrus; but just as Ar-mou had his harpoon raised, the animal disappeared in the water. Hall and Ou-e-la then directed their steps toward the loose pack which the others had already gained, to reacli which the sharp eye of the Innuit quickly discovered the only possible crossing. A quick run, a few steps over sludge and Oeceinber, 1864> The Walrus-Hunt 119 powdered ice, a leap from this tumbling block to that one, and a final leap to the driving floe, brought the two safely over. Walruses could now be seen in every direction ; some but- ting up ice-fragments from the solid main ; some with their heads through the butted holes ; some with a large part of the body above the ice. The hunters were busily at work. In one direction two Innuits were under full lun for the same blowing walrus, the dogs running around them. All at once these hunters stopped, for the animal had taken the alarm and gone down. In another direction an ex- cited group were seen, one throwing the lance, another holding on a line, one jumping this way and another tliat, for a walrus appeared to be c. p p. o B. — Joint with thongs loosened, Avhen not in use, to preserve their elasticity. C. — Knob on the han- dle to secure a firm hold. a secured prize. With some difficulty Hall gained this s|)ot, but found \ 120 A Death- Struggle. [December, 1S64. only one Innuit remaining, while the reddened ice and the hole showed a severe conflict. Shoo-she-arJc-nooJc had harpooned a very larg-e walrus, and he and Ebierbing had lanced it until it was almost dead. The harpoon, however, slipped out and the animal escaped, Ebierbing losing his lance-head. An extensive floe of the " walrusing-ice" was now seen shooting over the ice on which they stood, and advancing from the north at the speed of a moderate walk ; its thickness was two inches, the same as that on which they stood. They were two miles from the land-floe, upon ice which bent like leather at every step, often yielding two or three inches without a fracture, and it would not do to remain at rest on such ice. They were compelled to be constantly in motion, as the situation demanded. Hall hastened to a second group of Innuits who were as busily occupied as the first, and in a few moments found himself pulling away with others on a line which was fast to a large walrus. After a few pulls, the half-killed animal came up in a flouncing, tumbling way. He was furiously mad. He had not only been harpooned, but lanced and lanced again and again, so that at every blow, quarts of thick, dark blood were thrown up, scattering itself about, painting the ice, the dogs, and the party with a crimson hue. What a lioriific looking creature a walnis is, especially in the face! It looks wicked, detestably bad. Indeed, a devil incarnate could not have a more repulsive look to Turk or Christian. A hard death did tliis one die. lie fought desiierately, but steel and sinewy arms, under the control of cool, courag(!- ous hearts, finally conquered. As often as he came up to blow, he was met by tiio lance of the hari)ooner, who thrust it quick and deep into the heart and churned away until the walrus withdrew by diving under the ice and llippering away to the h'ligth of the line. Then, at each new appearance, he woidd fasten his long- ivory tusk (one had been broken olf, i>robably in some fight) uiion the edge of December, 1S64. Securing the Prize. 121 the ice, aud turning his eyes around would spend liis fury on tlie lirst of his ene- mies who approached. He then again flippered back, and, as the uplifted lance was poised, moved violently forward and upward, throwing forward his head with a circling sweep, as if to drive his tusk to the very heart of his assailant. What a terrible blow a walrus can deal with his head and tusks ! When he came up to breathe, which he did several times through difierent holes, resting with his tusk hooked onto the edge of the ice, at every breathing he expelled 122 Disposal of the Walrus. [December, 1864. tlirougli his white-walled mouth a frightful stream of hot life-blood, and as the hungry dogs rushed up fearlessly to the very fountain whence the luscious, sa- vory gore issued, the dying walrus qiiickly raised his head and struck it forward Avith tremendous force, though to little purjiose, as the dogs were too quick dodg- ing the blows. Shoo-she-arJc-nooJc at last cut a gash in the neck with his peloud (long knife) and thrust the i^oint into the very marrow of the spine. A fresh opening was now made in the ice, and to this the carcass was towed. Then the Hne, made fast to the tough skin on the nose, was taken to the point of a small hummock five fathoms distant, and back again through a hole in the same tough skin. With this pur- chase, five of the party pulled away on the line, gradually sliding the carcass upon the ice. It weighed about 2,200 pounds. This done, each In- nuit sprang to the task of cutting open the carcass from head to tail, that it might cover over as large an area as possible on the ice. Yet the moment they commenced to haul up, the ice began to bend, and by the time the walrus was disemboweled, the water covered it 6 inches deep. lie was now cut up, longitudinally, into three parts, without being skinned, and while this cutting was going on, the dogs acted like so many devils, and it was impossible, even with a spear, to keep them away from the blood and flesh. The backbone, the lights, and a small portion of the entrails only were thrown away. The edges of the longitudinal parts were then placed together by lines, to give each mass a rounded shape. The paunch accidentally fell in the water. HEAD OF A WALIiUS. December, 1864.] TJw Himt RcnGwecl. 123 disappointing Hall, who was thinking of a clam-feast. He had ex- pected to find the paunch well filled, as usual, with clams clean of their shells. He says that rarely is any part of a shell larger than a dime found within the animal. Having often picked up a single shell close by a walrus-hole, he believed that the habit of the animal is to dig but one clam at a time, and then come up to blow and expel the shell. He wonders how it opens the clam so skillfully as not to fracture the shell. The homeward journey was attended with the usual troubles in crossing fissures and regaining the land-floe, but at 4.30 p. m. the party reached their igloos. The dogs, divided into three teams, drew the walrus-rolls, which slid along over the rough ice more readily than a sled Ou-e-la, Ar-too-a, and Nu-her-zlwo, who had been further to the southeast, joined Hall and his party on the way home, Ou-e-la having lost his harpoon in an unsuccessful attempt to secure another walrus. One animal only having been taken at this time, the hunt Avas resumed in the closing days of the month, when a xerj long journey was made to determine whether the animals were deserting their feed- ing-grounds. Many holes were seen, but no indications of a recent visit, and there seemed no prospect of further success until a gale should carry out the heavy drift, and young ice should again form. For some who were out at this time on the floe, Too-koo-li-too kept. a beacon-light burning on the hill -top. The men endured much exposure ; when it was dark, they lay down on the ice with the dogs and slept until they became cold, then aroused themselves and walked again till they got warm ; alternately sleeping and walking through the whole night. Chaptei^^ y. WINTER LIFE AND JOURNEY TO THE WAGER. JANUARY TO MAY, 1865. 12& CHAPTER V. New Yeak's Day — Hall's speech — Feasting — Brilliant aukouas— He visits with the In- NUITS the whalers AT DEPOT ISL^\AT)— HOSPITALITIES AND AMUSEJIENTS ON BOARD — EeTUKN TO NOO-WOOK — SHOO-SHE-ARK-NOOK PERSUADES SOME OF THE INNUITS TO ABAN- DON Hall — Supposed earthquake — New orders of the An-ge-ko — Meteorological OBSERVATIONS — WaNT OF CONFIDENCE IN THE INSTRUMENTS — EXPERIMENTS AS TO THE FREEZING-POINT OF MERCURY — SEVERITY OF THE COLD — DIFFICULTY IN MAKING REC- ORDS — Hall's brass tablets — Supplies nearly exhausted — Ebierbing comes to the RESCUE — Flocks of eider-ducks in the Welcome — Native customs in sealing — Nu-ker-zhoo's and Ebierbing's ill-success — Supplies of provision, fuel, and light nearly gone — Plenty restored — The season moderating — Plan for survey of THE Welcome — Hall's broken health — The tides in the river — Eemoval to the Wager. The first day of the year 1866, Sunday, was one of gale and drift, confining all within their huts. To make the Tnnuits acquainted with some of the pleasant customs of civilization, and, by so doing, further gain their respect and good- will. Hall kept the second day of the month as " New Year's Day." The mean of six thermometers showed a tem- perature of 62° below freezing-point, and no cloud was seen on the sky. Yet Hall says, " We have all been as comfortable as though within houses of brick in New York." Too-koo-li-too having informed all the Innuits that calls Avere expected at the igloo from the crest of which the American flag would 1-27 128 New Year's Bay. [January, lS(i5. be flying, visits were received at a very early liour, the visitors having but a short distance to come through the snow-covered passage-ways which connected almost all the igloos. Each one was greeted with "Happy New Year! Happy New Year!" A breakfast of frozen veni- son, well relished, was followed by another on tood-noo, to which young OoJc-har-loo, son of Erk-tu-a, treated all hands. Hall then set a table made of sea-chests resting on snow-pedestals. It was 25 feet in length, GKOUND I'LAN OF VILLAGE IGLOO. I, cutiaucc ; II, central igloo ; B, bed-platform ; F, lloor ; L, lamp. extending into the huts of Ou-e-la, Ar-mou, and Nu-ker-zhoo, and hav- ing for seats around it snow-blocks cushioned with deer-skins. Flags were draped, and lamps were lit all along the table, and at 2 p. m. twenty-one grown persons sat down to the feast. Manimark, a wife, for special reasons, and Ook-har-loo, because still an invalid, being ruled out l)y custom, ate by themselves. Jannary, 1865.] TllC FcttSt ttnct tllC Ketf-loW-tiJc. 129 Vegetable and pemniican soup and sea-bread were furnished, with coffee and isinglass-jelly, and raisins were freely distributed for dessert. Too-koo-li-too waited on the guests. On their rising from the table, many of them placed their hands in front, close by where they had abundantly stowed away the good things, and cried out, "Good! very good ! " At the second table, eighteen children were gathered, while the men retired to Ou-e-lch hut to smoke. At 5 p. m., the men were treated to brandy punch, of Avhich a few sips also were offered to the women, as they had asked Too-koo-li-too to let them taste what their husbands had told them of as a heart-warming and happy-making drink. ErJc-tu-a said she had drink of the same kind many times on board Parry's ships, years before. The snow-domes were soon after made to ring with the songs of eleven of the women, mingled with the noise of repeated performances by the men on the liey-loiv-tik, and followed by the thunderings of a dance. Each woman had on her forehead a bright brass band, while down one side of her face hung the usual long pig- tail adornment; on her breast was a 10-inch square cloth, the ground-work of which was scarlet, and the fringe, scores of long strings of beads and glass buttons; the body of the breastplate being covered with the same. Ebierbing was called out, and responded with a song, which, according to In- nuit custom, was his own property — not transferable. He had pro- foundly attentive listeners, and Too-koo-li-too said she never had thought her husband could do so well. Hall then gave notice through Ebierbing that he had a speech to make, and Ebierbing made quite a speech in giving the notice. Dress- ing as a civilized man and taking a central position under a snow-arch, S. Ex. 27 9 130 HalVs Speech. [January, 1865. Hall then "began with his best bow" by expressing his satisfaction at having lived with them four moons as a brother, without either having spoken one bad word to them, or having heard one from them to him- self. He tried to impress them with the greatness of his native coun- try, and the protection always shown to its citizens by its one great E-she-mut-ta (Chief), enforcing this idea by pointing to the flags around him. Giving them some idea of the Queen of England also, whom he called "the Great Mother that owned all the big water and the land on which they were, as well as the country of Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too," he turned to these two, and told of their visit to Eng- land and to the palace of the Queen. After offering a good deal of wholesome advice to persuade his hearers to have more care as to their intercourse with white men, some of whom, he reminded them, had robbed them of their hunting lines, while others had taught them to be profane, and had introduced disease among them, he repeated in full his reasons for leaving home. "I have come," he said, "to your country to find out all about some white brothers who came to your land many years ago, but who never came back. Many of these brothers had wives and children. Their wives want the Innuits to tell me all about what they know of their husbands. Their children want you to tell me all about what you know of their fathers. * * * I shall want you to help me a good deal ; you have told me that you would go with me to Neitchille, and help me to find out all about the ship or two ships, as some of you have told me, that were two years, as you all say, in the ice near that place. I have pow- der, balls, shot, and ca})s enough for us all for three years. All these things I will share with you. So long as I am in your country, let us be as we have been for the four moons just passed — a band of brothers Jaouarr, 1865.] Au AuYOra. 131 aud sisters. I thank you all very much. Good night." On his con- cluding a very long talk, of which the preceding is the substance, Too-koo-li-too told Hall that he had much pleased his hearers, who wished him to talk again He had throughout the speech made fre- quent pauses, so that his interpreters could make him perfectly under- stood. The three days which followed the feast had been again days of gale and drift. The meteorological notes of the fourth day of the month read: "This morning the mean of five thermometers is 70° below freezing-point. The registers of three others are rejected. One of them, the longest, indicates over 100° below freezing-point; No. 2 registers 110°, and No. 7 will not register more than 77° below the freezing-point. A long and heavy cloud overhung the open water in the Welcome, its vapor looking like steam from a monstrous boiling cauldron." On the evening of the 7th, at 8.45, a band of children came run- ning into Hall's igloo, crying out ^^ Ok-sJium-mung ! Ok-shwm-mung !^^ — (Lights very fine.) He thus describes this aurora: When he registered the thermometer at 7 p. m., the sky was clear and cloudless, and there were no evidences of auroral action. At 8.45 there were three belts of aurora extending nearly in straight lines from near the horizon in the southeast up to the zenith, and thence within 40° of the horizon to the northwest. To the southwest there were belts of aurora, com- passing a large portion of the heavens from 15° to 40° above the hori- zon, these belts having contortions or folds like those in the Con- stellation, Draco. A fresh breeze was blowing from the north-north- west. Thermometer, 72° below freezing-point; barometer, 30.04. 132 The Natives Wish to Visit tJie Ships Afjain [jauunr,-, jses. The rays of the aurora were vertical; it appeared all alive, as if in high glee, dancing to and fro with almost the rapidity of lightning. The three belts extending from southeast to northwest were the most interesting, as they often flashed into the brilliant colors of the rain- bow. Each belt occasionally resolved itself into two lines or tiers of rays; as one line would dance rapidly to windward, the other would dance as quickly in the opposite direction. This extraordinary display lasted five minutes — an unusual time. Hall was so impressed with it that he wrote, " If at home it could be witnessed for one moment, one would say, ' I never saw northern lights before.'" The natives were now looking forward to hunt again for walrus when the ice should form. After securing one animal they would renew their visit to the whale-ships. They pleaded for this visit their promise to assist the captains in getting fresh meat for the crews, and their having received from them many presents without making any in return. Hall's journal says : Innuits are a strange people to deal with ; a white man, to get along with them, must have the patience of Job. They are the children of nature, and like to do just as a notion leads them. I learned this evening that half the iieople of the Aillage, including several of the women, are making arrangements to accom- pany me down to Depot Island. I must try to check this, for if the Innuits can be induced to be here in the middle of February, I can make my desired journey next si)ring. If I had a small vessel at llepulse Bay, I could learn all the i^articu- lars of the Franklin Exi)edition in two years; with Innuits alone it may take five or more. If I have, however, a team of ten dogs, myself Ebierbing and Too- koo-li-too can reach Boothia Felix in the spring. I regret that I have not a few white men with m(^ But a second visit to the ship at Depot Island was arranged. The party Avas made up of Hall, six Innuit men, Too-koo-li-too, and six other females, a boy (Oot-jnk), and two babes; all of Avliom were jauiiary, 1S65.1 HttlVs Vis'tt to tJic Whttlcrs. 133 seated on three sledges drawn by twenty-two dogs. The boy, Oot-pik, had awakened in Hall much interest by his brightness and his hand- some figure. When an infant, he was near perishing by being cast oflf by his parents, who thought that he was near death and would never be other than a burden to them, and his fate was just decided, on their taking fright when his hair began to fall off But Ar-goo-moo-too-lik and his wife, who had but one child of their own, by the consent of the boy's parents, promptly interposed to adopt him, and he very soon recovered his full health. Quick to learn, he was now fast becoming ready in speaking English. The sledge party were well supplied with venison, walrus-meat, and blubber, and reindeer-furs for traffic; besides their own provision and the articles necessary for use on their journey. The thermometer, when they bade good-bye to the twenty-six Innuits left behind, was 72° below freezing-point. Running for a short distance directly south over the land, they struck out for the sea-ice soon found to be smooth, and then followed the coast, with the open water on their left hand at the distance of less than a mile. Large flocks of ducks were seen, and fast-streaming columns of vapor rose vertically into a heavy fog-bank extending north and south as far as the eye could reach. At 3 p. m., leaving the coast and striking the tracks of the party who had gone down in December, they halted for the night at the old igloo, which had been occupied by that company, about 17 nautical miles south-southwest from their winter quarters at Noo-wook. A load of venison and tood-noo was soon secured from one of the many de- posits which had been made in the last season. Two small storehouses were next quickly built near enough to the igloo for them to hear any attempt the dogs might make to break into these for the meat ; and 134 TJie Igloo Made on the Journey. [junuar,, ises. while one of Ou-e-lds wives shoveled out the snow-drift from the main hut, the other increased the thickness of its walls by banking- up more snow on the outside. Hall's offered assistance to the women in this work of using the por-kin, (snow-shovel,) was refused by the husband. The drift being thrown out of the way, Ou-e-Ia then entered and made a bed-platform on each side of the igloo, dividing the two by a trench a foot in depth. GROUND-PLAN OF IGLOO. January 9, 186.5. Scale, i"-12". The women and children having then crowded in, made up the beds by spreading over the platforms their furred deer-skins, and lit the three fire-lamps to melt snow for the thirsty. The men on enter- ing carefully beat their jackets and kodlin, (outside breeches,) with their ar- row-tars, to prevent the warmth of the igloo during the night from January, 1863.] Tlw SlCCp tU tllC SflOW-IIut. 135 melting the snow upon them ; for if it again froze upon them it would make the garments heavy as well as cold. This thorough beating re- AR-EOW-TAR, SNOW-BEATER. The wood of this from one of Franklin's ships. quired a full half hour. The temperature within the hut, under the influence of the lamps and of the crowd, quickly rose from 41°, but was again lowered by the venison in the trench, which, when first brought in, smoked as if on fire. To prevent the tongue and lips from being frozen at the first taste of the meat, it was held, for a few moments, in mittened hands and breathed upon, the children's share being kept awhile in their parents' mouths. Ou-e-Ia's half-breed in- fant, slipping entirely naked from its mother's hood, played on the bed, and on Ou-e-Ia's raising the child to his shoulders, it stood erect, balancing itself, swinging its arms and crowing at the feat. At 9 p. m., the whole party huddled together for the night, some being compelled to sit upright through the long hours of sleep. Sev- enteen breathers were sealed up, with a large snow-block, in a hut but 1 feet in diameter ! On opposite sides of the trench, nine were on one platform and eight on the other ; every one (Innuit fashion) having the head toward the trench. In the morning, between the hours of 3 and 4, the men waked, ate a quantity of deer-meat, smoked, and again went to sleep. At 5, the whole party were amused to find that the lamp-smoke during the night had covered them with soot. Hall waked with a severe head- ache from the " excess of carbonic-acid gas generated by three fire- lights and seventeen persons." 136 Hall Frequent! 1/ Frost-Bitten. [January, ises. Having re-shod their runners with ice, they now repeated their experiences of the preceding day and made a journey of 2G miles in a south-southwest direction, the children riding all the way, but the grown persons about half the time walking or running beside the sleds. SEAL-SKIX ISOOTS. BEAR-SKIN MITTEXS. Watching Hall, the natives on this day, and on the days follow- ing, thirty times restored his frost-bitten nose and cheeks by their vigorous rubbing. He accounts for this frosting by the fact that for the preceding month he had eaten but little, having lost all appetite for walrus-meat, and by his leaving his "phiz" unprotected, as he wished it to become hardened to cold. His cheek at one time re- mained frozen fifteen minutes. In the igloo occupied the second night, slabs of frozen koiv (walrus- hide) were hung on spears running crosswise near the top of the hut. They were thus partially thawed by morning, when the dogs were called in one at a time and fed on short strips of the meat. On the tliird day a furious gale was encountered, which increased ])el<)w Cape Fullerton, compelling a halt at 2.15 p. m., at the end of a journey of 2G miles, during which it had been necessary to encase the children in reindeer-skins, and lash them on Ou-e-la's sled. The lirst stroke of the spear in testing at this })lace the snow and January, 1865.] A Seol-Agloo. 137 ice for a new hut now struck the dome of a seal agho^ the inclosure in wliich the young seal is born and reared. It was oval, its diameters being 4^ and 5^ feet, and its height from the floor of sea-ice to its dome, 2 feet. Those which Hall had before seen were circular. The open- ing for the seal to come up into this snow-dome made by her through the sea-ice, was near the end of the longer diameter. The party found their resting-place for this night warmer than that in their first igho^ which they said was because this hut was entirely new. They were, however, several miles from land, and in danger of being driven by the storm into the broad Hudson Bay. On the two following days the wind was fair, and the thermome- ter ranged from 36° to 34°. On the 12th, their fourth igloo was made on a small island 28 miles due west of their third. The land on their right was too low to be seen, but, according to the Eskimos, it was marked by deep inlets and bays, one of which extended to the north from 50 to 75 miles. On the left a ridge of hummocks intervened between them and the open water, a distance of from one to three miles. Hall expresses a desire to make an accurate survey of this whole coast-line, even from York Factory to Repulse Bay ; as, from what he had seen, he judged that no chart gave anything like an accurate delineation of it — certainly none showed the coast from Cape Fullerton to Depot Island. On account of the shore being very low and nearly uniform, a survey would have required much time and care. At a late hour of the next day, Ou-e-Ia, mounting a hummock, pointed out the masts of the whale-ships, which his quick eye discov- ered when Hall could not see them ; they a])peared only as sharp 138 Arrival at Depot Island. [January, ises. needle-lines in the distance. The dogs were now urged to their utmost speed, but the storm-clouds shut in upon them before Hall could take a compass-bearing which might have saved some hours of wandering. Traveling then became exceedingly difficult, until, accord- ing to Eskimo usage in such cases, a woman was selected as the guide. One of Ou-e-Ms wives well executed this task, although for a time mis- led by a light on Ar-goo-moo-too-Ul^s sled which was seeking to regain its track. This light was from a piece of moss at the bottom of a dish containing a little oil ; at first she believed it to be on the ships. Re- gaining their course, the party soon saw a signal swinging high on the mast of the Monticello, its crew having heard the cries of the dog- drivers and dogs for half a mile back. Hall had closely shaved his hair and beard for this journey, yet devoutly wishing when he cut them that the ice could have been kept off, that they might have been saved to warm him. He was distinguishable from the rest of the snow-covered party by his voice only ; but was soon recognized by Captain Chapel, and welcomed to his old quarters on the ship. After partaking of the first hospitalities of the Monticello, and seeing that his party were properly cared for, he turned into his bunk, expecting a full season of rest. But the change from the igloo was too sudden ; he slept none during the night. After his next meal he could not help entering in his journal that he " liked civilization food" as well as any man, and it was only thi'ough his detennination to fathom the mystery relative to the lost expedition that he could possibly submit to live the life of the Eskimos as he had done and as he must still do. He congratulated himself that he had not forgotten how to use his plate, knife, and fork after 135 days' disuse of said articles. January, 1863.] Amusemeuts OH Boavd the Whalers. 139 In this harbor, a little more than a mile west of Depot Island, four whalers besides the Monticello were anchored within rifle-shot of each other ; these were the George and Mar}- of New London ; the Black Eagle and the Antelope of New Bedford ; and the Concordia of Fair- haven, Mass. Each was banked up with snow six or eight feet thick and nearly up to the gunwale, the upper deck being well housed. On board the Monticello, although but little coal was used, the tempera- ture was kept above 32° throughout the vessel. Five other whalers, including the Ansell Gibbs and the Tender, Helen F., were anchored in a commodious harbor completely land-locked on the northwest side of Marble Island, an islet about 15 miles in length, lying 12 miles off" the coast. On board all of these vessels the amusements usually gotten up by Arctic voyagers for maintaining the cheerfulness and health of their crews were at this time in full play, and were generally of a theatrical charac- ter, varied by masked balls and by several forms of the dance. Among the exercises of speaking and singing, the memory of Franklin and the fate of his expedition were not forgotten. The new-comers were par- ticularly pleased with the farces, while Too-koo-li-too, in her turn, gave the ships' companies great satisfaction by her skill in a Green- land dance. Hall experienced a full share of the hospitalities frequently recip- rocated between the vessels at the two islands. The meat which his party had brought down with the design of dividing it among the five ships at Depot Island had been pounced upon by one crew. But the supply of fresh meats was plentiful on all the ships, and the condition of the musk-ox meat previously obtained, and of the hogs brought out from home, was a good indication of the care taken by the whalers 140 Hospitality on Board. [January, ises. against scurvy, cases of which were very few and of the hghtest foiiii. His first disappointment was the news that botli the Antelope and the Black Eagle had been in Repulse Bay in August previous ; that the land was then covered with reindeer, and that these ships had looked for him, and would probably have remained there all the win- ter had they found him. These vessels had seen many whales, and each ship had secured ten; all which had been seen, were small. Hall's disappointment was followed by his entire failure to obtain now a promise from Ou-e-la of a dog-team for his spring sledge journey, or the loan of a team from the ships ; they would need all their dogs for the early spring floe-Avhaling. During his stay on the whalers, unwillingly protracted to the 10th of the following month, he spent much time on the volumes of his Arctic library, left on the Monticello in August ; especially on those works which would best aid him on this voyage and on his proposed future voyage to the North Pole He did not fail to record some strange reading of the thermometers, together with interest- ing auroral and other atmospheric phenomena. On the 15th, the mercurial thermometer on the Monticello's mainmast read, at 7 a. m., — 44°; at noon, — 43°; at 7 p. m., — 45°; Avhile his own ethereal ther- mometer read, at the same hours, — 37°, — 36°, — 38°. He believed the last three records too high. He says : I am convinced of this by the test I lately made at my winter quarters by exposing, one night, a dish of pure mercury to the out-door air. My thermometers are numbered 0, T, 11, III, IV, V, VI, and VII. In the morning, when my No. thermometer stood at 40O.5, the mercury was frozen so hard that only the sharp nails of the finger (!0uld be made to penetrate it. Undoubtedly 5° or 0° Itiffher temperature would have left it in a frozen, unjiuid state. Some mercury will freeze at — 38° ; i)ure nuiy not at even — UP. February, 1863.] How to Determine Time at the Pole. 141 lu Chapel's thermometer the mercury would not run down the tube while Inverted until a few degrees of warmth were communicated to it, but the ther- mometer continued to act. I am satisfied that a good mercurial instrument will indicate the true state of the atmosphere several degrees below the temperature of the mercury with which it is filled. In one of his leisure hours, revolving- in mind the problem of determining time at the North Pole, he came to the conclusion that with the help of an English nautical almanac, Greenw^ich time could be found there by star occultations or by the eclipses of Jupiter's satel- lites, but perhaps oftener by lunar distances. He had at first reasoned that at a place where there could be no such thing as a da}^, and no cardinal point but one ; wdiere all the heavenly bodies revolve paral- lel to the horizon, with the exception of the change caused by the variation of declination ; where there is no meridian, or rather where every meridian is : — it would seem impossible to determine time. * There is one great difficulty that will be experienced by whomsoever shall reach the Pole ; that is, there tvill he no means for dctermuiing time hy astronomical ohscrvations How can there be when all the heavenly bodies in view of the observer while at the Pole are continually revolving about him parallel with his horizon. The only exception to this is simi)ly the variation of decli- nation. At the North Pole there can bo no vppcr or loivcr culminations of the sun, moon, planets, and stars, for it is a point where there is no meridian; then it follows that there is no day there — no solar day, no siderial day, no lunar day. Why no day ? "Because a day is the interval time between the departure of a heavenly body from any meridian and its succeeding return to it ;" and there being no meridian at the North Pole, there can be no departure from or return to one by a heavenly body. At the North Polo there is no meridian ; it is a ijoint nevertheless where the meridians of every spot on the face of the globe meet, or, in other words, where they terminate to (zero or nothing). But a neiv idea had just struck me. Time can be determined at the North Pole by lunars. Having a Nautical Almanac and the usual instruments, it can be easily done. Take one observation of the sun's altitude, or of either of the planets or stars used in lunar obser- vations ; one altitude of the moon, without any particular care in noting the exact time when these two observations are made ; then carefully observe the angular distance of sun and moon, or moon and one of the planets or stars used in lunar observations, and note the time. [I did not mean by my references to determining time at the Polo that this will bo North Polar time or mean time. Certainly not, for this, as I understand the matter, would bo absurd. To say that such an event occurred at such an hour North Pole time or mean time would be out of all reason]. Having made the usual observations in taking a lunar, work these up. The true distance of the moon from sun, or planet, or star being found, proceed with the use of the lunar tal)les as in lunar work. The result will bo Greenwich time if the British or American Nautical Almanac bo the one used. I do not consider it necessary that one at the Pole should have a chronometer 142 Hall Returns to Noo-ivooA: [February, isos. On the 10th of February he began his return journey to Noo- wooJc, leaving behind him, as he had unwillingly anticipated, the larger number of the natives. They had made themselves very useful in hunting for the crews the seal, the fox, and the bear, with the usual varied success and excitement of the chase. Ar-mou at one time going alone in pursuit of a large polar, harpooned him, but, in his determi- nation to secure the animal, he was himself fairly dragged over the thin ice to the sea and nearly drowned. Ou-e-la and Ar-mou, before going down in December, had agreed that they would early return. But now, with their wives and friends, they were not unwillingly detained by the captains. On bidding the whalers good-bye, Hall was furnished with some substantial and even delicacies ; for he was unable to conceal the fact that he considered some "civilization food" as almost a necessity. After the play of Damon and Pythias, given in his honor on the previous evening, he made a speech to 140 seamen gathered on one of the ships, complimenting the courage and hardi- hood of the American whalers who succeeded in finding harbors in a that had been adjusted to Green wicli or to any other time in making his lunar observations. Indeed, it may bo supposed that he knows nothing of time save the year. By the observed alti- tude and variation of declination of the sun or one of the planets, he can determine the month of the year, and by the lunar distance the day of the month, and by repeated workings of the lunar observations can determine Greenwich mean time as approximately as lunars will admit. Having Greenwich mean time by it, one easily gets Greenwich .apparent time. The party now at the Pole, we will say, is desirous to proceed toward Greenwich. He consults his watch, which is now at band and in running order. A good time-pieoe should, however, be in hand at the time the angular distance of the moon from the sun, or the moon from such other heavenly body as may be used in the lunar observations is o1)served, and the exact moment noted. No matter what hour this instrument is set to befoi'o commencing the observation, the result of the lunar obser- vations will show how much too fast or slow the chronometer is on Greenwich time; and thus one has iu hand the instrument to tell him at any moment, therefore, the Greenwich mean time. When the time-piece indicates the apparent time of Greenwich of Oh. Oui. Os., the sun (wo will suppose it to be summer in north latitude) is, on the meridian of Greenwich, exactly in the direction of Greenwich. The observer at this moment directs his compass-sight and takes a bearing. He proceeds, as he leaves the Pole, not only south (there is only one cardinal x)oint at the North Pole, which is south), but ou the meridian of Greenwich, Greenwich mean time may be determined by .an occultation of a stai or of a planet; also, by the eclipses of Jupiter's satellites. Jupiter, however, is alternately in sight and out of sight for six years at a time at the Poles of the earth. (Jouru.al on board the whaler at Depot Island.) February, 1865.] ArHval at Noo-wook. 143 locality in the bay where a like success had not been met with by H. M. S. Griper in 1824* Beginning his journey at 8.30 in the morning, he was accompanied by /ShoO'She-arJc-nookj Ook-har-ho, Too-koo-li-too, and a girl named Now-yer. Their dogs numbered ten. After traveling 27 miles in an easterly direction, they again quartered for the night in an igloo on the sea-ice. The distance made on the second day was about the same as that on the first, but on the third they lost their way. Hall's com- passes proving totally unreliable. He was glad again to trust himself to the skillful guidance of the Innuits. Turning next to the north they were met by a furious gale from the northeast, with thick snow, shutting them up a second time on the ice of the Welcome, but the next morning all was calm and ''clear as a bell." They reached Noo-wook on the 14th. Hall had suffered on the journey by the strange conduct of Slioo- she-ark-nook, who had allowed each of the party but a few ounces from the abundance of walrus-meat packed on the sled, although he ate pounds of it himself and fed it to the dogs, and although Hall had freely shared with him all his own bread and coffee. To keep up his strength and warmth, for the supply of which to an Arctic traveler bread and coffee are not enough, he had submitted to eat the unpalatable and tough kow (hide of the walrus). In accordance with the expectations he had held out to the natives on New Year's Day, he now distributed to them the presents which he had obtained from the ships. The bread Avhicli Ar-mou had sent back to his family had unfortunately been stolen by the dogs on the jour- *Lyou's journal (p. 110) says: Marble Island, according to Middletou, is the only spot along tlie whole American coast from Churchill ujiward which aflbrds tolerably good anchorage. There is an excellent harbor in the island, but its entrance is dangerous. At spring tides there are only 13 feet on the bar. The Griper drew 16 feet. 144 A Beported Earthquake. [February, ises. ney. The natives were living on short commons, because of their recent ill success in hunting. Ebierbing, on the day following, while on an unsuccessful walrus hunt, killed one of a large flock of eider-ducks (Mei-tuks), of the weight of which Hall satisfied himself by first bal- ancing it with the two books "The Fate of Franklin" and " Burritt's Geography of the Heavens" in a tin kettle, and then balancing these volumes with a bag of rifle-balls. He found the weight of the duck to be that of 312 rifle-balls, =: 6 pounds. The bird had in its gizzard snail-shells in perfect condition, which were preserved for examination as to their species. On the 17th, at 50 minutes past noon, a low rumbling noise was heard, resembling that of a train of cars slowly crossing a bridge and dying gradually away. The Innuits said that a like noise had been heard twice during Hall's absence, coming from the southeast, and continuing for a long time, and spoke of it as Toon-gwa, the bad Spirit, shaking the earth. During a new performance by the an-ge-ko, to which he summoned all hands at midnight, he issued the order that the kook-higs must not be emptied, nor the frost scraped from the ice- windows of the igloos till sunrise. This order, however, was accom- panied by another decree for an exchange of wives; and on his own wife's refusal to go to Ebierbing's hut for this purpose, the An-ge-ko, (Ar-too-a,) beat her most unmercifully. A few days after, fourteen of the Innuits moved a few miles southward, ostensibly to be nearer the seal and walrus grounds and their depositaries of reindeer-meat. About an equal number, includ- ing his two fast friends, remained with Hall. Shoo-slie-ark-nook, through some ill feeling, had endeavored to persuade every one to desert him. During this native's sickness and that of his son. Hall had closely watched both, and saved them when at death's door. For February, 1S05.1 A Seal Securcd hy Ingenuity. 145 a few days, now, he was placed under serious apprehension that Shoo- she-arJc-nooJc would induce all to leave him with Ebierbing and Too- koo-li-too, to get along the best way they could alone. The fel- low was, not long" after, brought to terms when his own necessities returned upon him. Ebierbing, on the 19th, shot a seal weighing 125 pounds. It was too fat to sink, and its blubber made more than four gallons of oil. The meat was divided equally among all the families. Having no other means of securing a second seal which he had killed at too great a distance from the land-ice to be reached by his harpoon, he had endeavored to lodge in its body a line shot out from a rifle-grooved ball ; but, each time, his line broke. His companions, talking over the matter, returned to the spot with Hall, and found the water now cov- ered with a thin coat of ice. Lashing together a number of poles and flats, and making of them an oonar (seal-spear) a hundred feet in length, they fastened to its end a harpoon carrying a seal-line, and then pushed this long pole through a hole in the ice toward the seal. It re- quired skill to direct it, as the sea-ice is not transparent, but on the second attempt, after sunset, the seal was reached, and the harpoon withdrawn an arm's length and struck into the animal by a skillful blow. Snow was next kicked upon the body, and then thoroughly rubbed off with the feet, to prevent its hairy coat from being loaded with ice. A hole was cut in its nose and a line passed through it, by a loop of which, thrown over Hall's shoulders, he dragged it to his {gjoo, sharing it equally with all. On the 24th and 25th a severe gale prevailed from the north- northwest, the thermometer ranging from — 23° to —34°, and the snow di'ifting thickly. Over the Welcome, the fog-bank showed that the ice S. Ex. 27 10 146 Low hut Unreliable Thermometer Readings. [February, isfis. had been driven off shore. The mean of the five thermometers at 7 p. m., when the gale had entirely subsided, was — 39°; but Hall had now further reason to place no confidence in two out of seven instruments, one of which stood at — 100° and the other at — 75°. Shortly after this he wrote: "It is annoying to have but one of nine thermom- eters, right. But by taking even one to the United States, and having it compared with a standard, with my data, all the observations can be worked up to said standard." During the night of the 26tli his five self- registering thermometers read, —48°, —46°, -48°, —48°, —52°. At 8 a. m. he experi- mented with the mercury given to him by Mr. Green, one of the in- strument-makers of New York, for his artificial horizon. Pouring some of this into a dish near his thermometer, he found the mass quickly frozen, small spherical drops remaining fluid until the pressure of a pencil changed their form. When the mass of the mercury again became fluid, or nearly so, with the rising temperature, these globules remained solid. The following table gives the results of his observations ; the thermometers numbered I, II, and VII, at first being below the marks, were not read : Time- Fob. 26. Thermometers numbered — Merruvial test— state of ex- posed mercury. 0. I. n. III. IV. V. VI. vn. h. m. 8 8 30 & 50 10 10 10 25 10 45 11 -38° -37°. 5 -36° -35° -33°. 5 -32° -30° n -90° -86° i £ 1 1 -83°. 5 -80° -77° -73°. 5 —72° -37°. 5 -36° -34°. 5 -33°. 7 -32° -30° -29° -38°. 5 -38°. 5 -38° -36° -34°. 25 -33° -31°. 75 -38°. 5 -38°. 5 -37°. 5 -35°. 5 -34° -33° -31° -44° -44° -42° -40° -38° -36° -35° it » -41° -39° -37° -36° Hard frozen. Hard frozen. Hard frozen. Hard frozen. Yielding a little. Semi-fluid, half of it. Nearly fluid ; some still solid. February. J 863.] Tlic Freezing-Point of Mercury. 147 These experiments still further confirmed his uncertainty as to the true freezing-point of mercury, and he was at a loss to know how to correct his thermometer-register. On the following day he continued his experiments with frozen mercury, the lowest temperature during the night having been — 39° ; and at 7 a m his thei-mometers standing thus: - 36°, - 90°, - 72°, - 34°, - 36°, - 36°, - 40°, — 42°. An attempt to mold mercury into a bullet did not meet with success. The temperature of the freezing mass now differed from what had appeared on the previous day, and he began to question whether its repeated freezing does not affect the case, or whether the discrepancies noted had not arisen from some lack of watchfulness needed to prevent the communicating of heat to the thermometers from his own person.* He says : " Why should I not be in doubt about the freezing-point of mercury when masses freeze and little rain-drops of the same metal from the same jar remain fluid ? Admitting that mercury freezes, by a * These notes of Hall's experiments may be compared with the follo^\•iIlg, to be found in the " Results derived from the Arctic Expedition, 187.5-76" (Parliamentary Paper C, 2176). Cajitain I^ares says, on p. 107 : "The spirit and mercury thermometers were fixed alongside one another in the same screen, and, being read off every hour during the winter, were found to agree very well together until the temperature fell to about — 44°, when, on the temperature reaching a certain point be- tween — 45° and — 46°. 5, the mercury fell suddenly to a point in the tube which would be about equal to — 60° had the tube been graduated. " While in this state, the mercury could be easily tapped down to a lower point in the scale. It appeared to be very brittle — that is, as the end of it reached the narrow passage leading to the bulb, small particles broke oiF and found their way through. The stream was not continuous. •'When the thermometer was left quite siill, no matter how cold the atmosphere was, the mercury never sank lower in the tube than about — 60°. " "\^^leu a thaw set in, the iirst effect was to melt the mercury remaining in the tube, which fell into the bulb out of sight, the mercury in the bulb always taking a longer time and a higher temperature before it became fluid. By the observations made, this temperature is about — 35°, but length of time may affect the actual degree at which the mercury would become fluid. '■■ Occasionally, when the mercury assumed the fluid state, the expansion was apparently a sudden action, as the mercury in the tube of the maximum thermometer, lymg in nearly a hori- zontal position, was projected along the tiibe, and registered a much higher temperature than that of the atmosphere ; thus, on February 22 the maximum thermometer registered a tempera- ture of -f 51°. 5, and on March 30, + 3=.0, both readings being higher than the actual temperature experienced." During the 24 hours preceding the first of these observations, the weather was stormy, and the thermometer may have been shaken. 148 Extreme Difficulty in Writing. rFcbruury, ises. standard thermometer, at — 40°, then my thermometer No. does not register when at — 35° low enough by at least 5°, for at 10^' 10"^ a. ui. frozen mercury remained solid and fluid mercury froze." He now made his own records with great difficulty ; his inkstand occasionally was warmed beneath the fur clothing of one of the Innuits, the pen was constantly warmed by breathing on it, and the ink in his pen breathed upon as frequently. His fingers and thumb he warmed by a small lamp, which also heated two metal plates* alternately placed underneath the leaf on which he wrote. The ink was obtained from a deposit of icy ink-blocks outside of the igJoo ; slices from these were chipped off, crushed, and thawed inside. In detailing this, and speaking of his frequent exercise necessary to keep his blood in motion, he says, that " although apparently warmly dressed in skins from head to foot, (his) vigilance in dancing on the snow floor of the igloo to keep his blood in circulation was the })rice not only of liberty, but of life itself." The supply both of meat and blubber for oil had now become very low, suggesting grave apprehensions of want. The seal-meat was all gone and the walrus-meat nearly devoured. The blubber, so necessary for the lamp-light and for melting snow for their drink, was consumed. The only supplies left were in the reindeer deposits, which, in the severity of the cold, could scarcely be opened ; and tlieir tood-noo, without which the meat was poor food, was also gone. "Oil * His account of these metal plates is of interest : "I have before mo a lamp with two wicks kept constantly biirning. The brass sheets are 10 inches each by 5 ; and while one is heated the other, which has been made hot, is under the l<;af on which I write, warming it; this, in turn, keeps my lingers wann and the ink from freezing in the pen, and dries the writing. Changing the plates after writing on each half a dozen lines, I am able to make up my journals, the thermom- eter at my side showing 42° below the freezing-])oint. It is a i)lan of my own." [The plates, with the pen, inkstand, and other relics, were at the Arctic exhibit put up for the United States Naval Observatory at the Centennial, 187(5. ] march, 1865.J Starvation Driven Of. 149 was what, they most needed, not only for their fire-lamps, but for the human stovesP Ebierbing, however, was now again successful in the capture of a full-grown seal weighing 250 pounds. Hall went down the coast a half mile, and attaching a dog-team to the seal, in fifteen minutes had it in his igloo, and shared it all around with his friends, including Shoo- she- ark -nooh. Nuk-er-zhoo brought in a load of venison from a distant deposit. Plenty came again. February, there- fore, closed with widely-extended moss-wicks on all their fire-lamps, once more aglow ; — with the stomachs, which had nearly collapsed, again filled to repletion. Sorrowful faces and silence then gave way to smiles and to merry voices. Within the first few days of March, Shoo-slie-ark-nooh and his family made their long-talked-of move to a new point north, half way to the Wager River, expecting to catch salmon through the ice and to gather supplies of reindeer from some of their own deposits. The conduct of this Innuit had, for some time past, given uneasiness, small tools and other articles which had disappeared from the passage- ways usually considered safe, having been found in his igloo ; besides which, serious apprehensions were renewed that he was again persuad- ing the rest of the natives to desert Hall. On parting, however, he promised to give his assistance on Hall's proposed journey to Repulse Bay ; and, not long after, he sent back to him a very acceptable present of frozen salmon, asking for tobacco, and receiving it cor- dially, together with blubber, medicine, and some food. Hall, with Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, now entered a new igloo, called the "seventh encampment," distant 120 fathoms further south. Tliis was to gratif}^ the superstitious notion that since so few of the people now remained in the village they must abandon all their old 150 Intense Cold. [Mnrch, jses. huts, or failure in the seal and walrus hunt might ensue. The new igloo, made of coarse-grained blocks, with but little depth of snow for its floor, was particularly cold and uncomfortable, until embankments were thrown up outside and inside. Too-koo-li-too had lined it with the sail and jib of the Sylvia and with ripped-up canvas bags, et cetera — the et cetera being chiefly the petticoat which she had worn when in the United States. The 5th day of the month was again one of storm, the gale be- coming almost a hurricane. The storm-wind was cuttingl}^ keen. Hall wrote in his journal, " King Cold, even when severest, is harm- less in a calm; but when he gets the winds of old Boreas and charges them with his mighty power, man turns his face for shelter." Taking the mean of the readings of his "0" thermometer for the previous evening with the three of the day, and applying the correction of adding — 7°, which his experiments with the mercury had prompted him to do, he found the temperature in the gale to be h7° below freez- ing-point. The drift filled the air so that one could see nothing a few fathoms off, and yet the sun peered dimly through it the whole day, so that the terrific gale was hugging the earth. Probably a few hundred feet above, all was sunshine. At night the feeble rays of the moon pierced through the swiftly-moving white pall which enshrouded the land. When writing his journals now the greatest difficulty was, not to get the ink but his thoughts to flow. "When mechanical contrivances are to be attended to every few moments, and when King Cold is con- tinually thrusting his stinging needles into the toes and fingers, and finally chills one through and through, it is utterly impossible to think with freedom. While writing, one becomes lost in a labyrinth of stiff- March, 1S65.] Natwe Mode of Sealing. 151 frozen ideas, from which he can escape only by the most violent physical exercise." On the 6th, after a protracted and severe struggle with a walrus found sleeping on the drifting ice, seven miles out, Ebierbing and Nu-ker- ^hoo, after freely using their harpoons and lances, at last pierced his neck with a well-directed bullet. Night coming on, the two left their rifles on the ice and returned to their huts. The next day. Hall with three of his friends made their way over the rough sea-ice — a temper-trying field of chaos made up of piled blocks of every conceivable shape, size, and position, fractured and raised by the pressure of the floes upon such ice as had become fixed. They found the creature still fast to the line by which Ebierbing had tied him to a hummock ; but the current, at the last, swept this line under the land-ice, broke it, and took from them their prize. Four flocks of the eider-duck (Anas molUs- sima) were seen, which they estimated contained 1,000 each, the males predominating. Hall notes as .of interest to naturalists, their winter- ing in very large numbers in waters of such high latitude as the Welcome. The customs of the natives in sealing during the winter are detailed as follows : When the hunt is prosecuted over seal-holes, no seal is seen by the sealer until he has made fast to it. The locality of the hole is found by a seal-dog only, and the sealer then proceeds to prospect with the long spindle shank of his oo-nar, jjiercing the snow until it penetrates the exact spot of the hole which leads up through the sea-ice. Then, with one eye, a sight is taken through this spindle-shank hole, to determine whether it is about the center of the seal-hole, as this is the i)oint where the si)iudle-shank hole must be located. When the seal comes to this hole to blow, the listener prepares himself for striking his harpoon vertically through it ; and on the second or third puff J 52 Nu-ker-zliod a Seal- Watch. [March, isss. or blow of tlie animal, down goes a strong muscular arm, carrying a harpoon into its head, neck, or back. When the seal dives carrying out the length of the line attached to the harpoon, the sealer retaining firm hold of the other end, removes all the snow from over the hole, draws the seal into it, and drags him out. Two such seal hunts now followed. On the 8th, Nu-ker-zhoo took Hall with him three miles out from the shore to a seal-hole which he had discovered, and about which he had built a snow-wall 5 feet in diameter and 5 feet in height on the north side, but 1 8 inches only on the south. This was for his protection from the wind while watching. Into this hole, at the spot marked on his previous visit, Nu-ker- zhoo ran a whalebone rod, which, by striking ice, showed that some time had passed since the seal had been there ; drawing out the rod and smelling it, he whispered ^^tepid^^ (stink — &M/^seal). Returning the rod to the same little hole, he carefully scraped away the snow from around the rod, so as to leave only about 6 inches over the seal-hole. He then drew out the rod and placed the end of the wood-part of his oo-nar directly over the rod-hole. Holding this perpendicular with one hand, he used the other in packing snow around it till he had returned the 10 inches of snow over the seal-hole which he had scraped away. Then the spear-handle was lifted up gently, which left an inch-square hole ; this was to be his mark and guide for his harpoon in striking the seal as soon as he should hear it. He then ran the little rod down through the dome of the seal's house (or as it may be called agloo, for it is really a small snow-hut) to determine the depth of the snow over it ; for it was on this his feet were to rest while watching. The next thing was to prepare himself for spending the whole night in perfect silence. He threw down a piece of furred deer-skin march, 1865.] EMerMng's Night- Watch. 153 to answer for a cushion and to keep t!:e least noise made b\ his moves from being communicated to the snow. ^ Then, to keep his feet warm and close together, he drew over them a short bag of reindeer- skin with the fur inside, and, to prevent still further his making the least noise while sitting, or when he should rise to strike, he tied his legs together just below the knees and his frock-tail close around his body. The last act was to place his oo-nar with harpoon and Hne, on two pegs carefully stuck into the snow, on his right hand and on the left, just so far in advance of him that when bending forward he could touch the spear. All was now ready for unbroken silence. Whisper- ing back and forward the word " Ter-hou-ee-iie,^^ (Good-night,) Hall took his leave ; for Nu-ker-zhoo had invited him to be his companion to this point only, since by his now leaving the agloo the seal would suppose that no one was left behind. The native, however, failed to secure a captive, and returned at the end of a twenty-four hours' watch only to say " no visit had been made by the seal to his hole during all that time." This had been his second disappointment, for on his last hunt, when he heard the blow and was throwing his harpoon, a mitten fell from his belt on the roof of the agloo, frightening off the wary seal. Hall next accompanied Ebierbing to a seal-hole which he had found about three miles off, and over which he now expected to watch during the night. With his knife, Ebierbing cut down into the snow- covering, repeatedly smelling the snow until he satisfied himself that the seal had been there within a short time. He then scraped away the outside snow which was about 5 inches thick, down to the thin, icy crust forming the coating to the seal's breathing-hole. Into this he made a very small cut, but on looking through, he discovered that 154 Ehierhing's Night- Watch. [March, 18(>5. it was about 4 inches on one side of the center. FiUing- this up care- fully with a small piece of snow, he made another cut, which he found to be centi-al. A small hair from his koo-U-tang (outer reindeer-frock) having- fallen very near the hole he had made, he at once stopped, and with the gi-eatest care removed it, remarking to Hall that the seal would " smell uni quick, and away it go." Then cutting a block of snow an inch square and 8 inches long, he set it up over the last hole, and filled in about it with loose snow, leaving 3 inches of it above the surface for a mark by which to direct his harpoon when the time came to strike. Seated on a single snow-block, with his back to the southwest wind, he tied his clothes about him, as already noted in Nu-ker- Zhao's case, and commenced his weary watch. He did not, however, build a wall around the hole, telling Hall that his own coun- trymen at Cumberland Gulf did not do this for fear of frightening the animal by the noise made in putting it up. Hall left him to his lonely watch, the temperature of the air being — 34°. Joe was as unfor- tunate as Nu-ker-zhoo in having no visit from the seal to his hole ; but he shot one in the open water, yet found it impossible to secure it. The Aneroid indicated, on the 10th, a fall of 4 J tenths of an inch. The wind again blew with almost the force of a hurricane, and one EBIERBING GOING OUT ON HIS HUNT. march, i8anious may never return, though I do not entertain the thought that such an event is probable. There is more to be feared that we may fall by the treachery of the evil disposed jjortion of the natives than by cold and starvation ; but as I shall make deposits of records at Eepulse Bay and at other places, and shall describe how they can be found, if we do perish, the world can still learn what I have accomplished. The necessity for his delay after he should reach Repulse Bay, arose from the fact that it would be entirely too late on his arriv^al 160 Ou-e-Ia Returns from Depot Island. [Apru, isea. there for any sledge journey. It will be found that his anticipations of any treachery on the part of his companions were far from being realized. He was able to company with them safely through the long delays of five years. The movements of the different parties of Innuits toward the Wager were now dictated by their necessity for a change of residence to obtain the supplies which the opening season promised from the capture of salmon and the seal. These movements, as would be ex- pected, were fitful and the journeys generally slow. Hall's entire dependence on them is sufficiently obvious ; and it is satisfactory to find in his journals that any temporary break in the exercise of that mutual good feeling which was to him a necessity, was soon healed. His friends, the captains at the islands, had rendered him good assist- ance toward this, by exhorting Ou-e-la on his protracted visit to give on his return better counsels to his people. This he seems to have faithfully done. He surprised Hall on the 1st day of the month by coming in upon him in his igloo with his wife and a sled which he had heavily loaded up from a deposit twenty miles down the Welcome, "^^riie rough working of this sled over the ice had made him perspire very freely, but he at once called for repeated draughts of water, on Hall's remonstrating against which, Ebierbing said that quart after quart never hurt an Eskimo when perspiring. Ou-e-la brought with much news from Captain Chapel, the luxuries of some ship-bread and half a dozen mince-pies ; he also brought a large-sized neit-yuk, seal {Phoca hispida). Room in the igloos was readily -made for the new- comers, whose first meal with their friends was again ruled by Innuit custom. Ou-e-la had eaten venison in the morning ; he could not now April, 1865.', A Gale. 161 eat seal ; his friends had eaten seal, and must be content with more of the same for supper. The next morning's comfort, liowever, was improved by a sociable breakfast by all hands on boiled salmon. Ebierbing brought in during the day two Arctic 9-pound hares, which Hall weighed by balancing them with bullets the weight of which he knew to be fifty-two to the pound. A mutual instruction class seems to have been then unintentionally formed among the party housed by the gale. Ou-e-la spent much time in confirming what had been previously more than once asserted by his people, that trees were certainly to be seen growing on Shar-too (Prince of Wales Island), and that between Wager River and Boothia a species of soap- stone used in making the native lamps and kettles (the Lapis ollaris) is to be found in abundance. Hall, on his side, gained their attention while correcting their crude ideas of the motions of the sun, moon, and stars ; like all other Innuits, they believed that these moved daily around the earth. On the 4th, the lowest reading of the thermometer was 57° below freezing-point. A southeast gale, which prevailed from the 5th to the 8th, is noted in connection with expressions of sympath}' for Franklin's men in the terrible sufferings which they must have endured if in their weak state overtaken by such a storm on their fated way to Montreal Island. The thermometer during this gale showed a mean temperature of — 18° and a minimum of — 30°. For ten hours, however, two of the natives remained out unflinchingl}^ to bring in reindeer-carcasses at nightfall. Hall's igloo was the headquarters for fresh meat. They were all still living on an ook-gook which Ebierbing shot on the 16th of the month previous ; and it is again to be noted that he was the chief S. Ex. 27 11 162 The Tides. iaphi, iscs. hunter for the village. He was the only Innuit who had as yet shot a seal in the open water But Hall knew that he had been accus- tomed to this for years, and felt satisfied that if Joe kept his health, there need be no fear but that he would secure enough provision to keep eight or ten hearty men in good working condition. The full opportunities which now offered themselves for observ- ing the tides in the Welcome, led to the conclusion that their true direc- tion differs from that spoken of by N. West Fox, who explored the strait in 1631, and by other earlier as well as later explorers. The flood- tide was found to set in from the south, while the ebb comes from the north. The Eskimos say that below the Wager, oo-Iee-po-ke (flood- tide) comes from the south, and tin-ne-po-ke (ebb-tide) comes from the north ; while above the river the reverse is found. The tides in Hudson's Bay, Hall remembered, were admitted to be inconsistent with general rules. He had read that — When it was discovered that at Eesoliitiou Island, lying at its entrance, the tide was full 30 feet at full and change of moon ; less and less as advance is made westward ; only G feet at Gary Swan's Nest, on the south of Southampton Island ; but thcuce to the west side of Hudson Strait higher and higher, and the further an advance is made north, still increasing : — it was concluded that there must be some strait or passage connecting the west side of the bay to a western ocean or the South Sea. The move toward the Wager and thence to Repulse Bay was now begun. On the 10th, Ou-e-la and his family, with some of Hall's stores, started Avith a large team toward the Wager River, folloAved by every remaining one of the company except Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, who still domiciled with Hall. His igloo, which up to this time had been so often crowded by men, women, and children, and dogs, was now left free, giving him the enjoyment of some repose for writing. April, 1865.1 Hall Moves totvard the Wager. 163 Ar-mou's sled had on it his whale-boat presented by the captains of the ships, which was 28 feet in length, with 6 feet beam, and 2^ feet depth. Besides this boat, with its oars and rigging, the sled held household utensils and provision; yet the team was made up of but six dogs. Nu-Jcer-zJioo had but two dogs and a puppy for a load usu- ally requiring a team of eight ; but the journey before them prom- ised to be over comparatively smooth and hard snow. Very soon Ar-mou stopped his team and gave each of his dogs a most unmerci- ful thrashing "just to warm them up and prepare them for their hard work." Four days after they left him, and while Hall and Ebierbing were in their igloo finishing their own packing, they heard the cry of dogs, and soon after, the sound of their pattering feet and the music of the sleds gliding over the crisp snow. Unharnessed dogs then came bound- ing into the igloo, seizing whatever had the appearance of meat or skin ; hunger had made them fiends, and blows from a club or hatchet that would have killed an ordinary dog were necessary to save what remained of the provender. Their masters, Ou-e-la and Ar-too-a, next appeared, and it was evident that Ou-e-la had brought his companions to a better mind toward Hall, for they joined cordially in loading up the stores and assisting him to start. In the afternoon, after journeying over compact snow 14^ miles in a direction north-northwest from the last encampment, Hall came to the new settlement already made by the advanced parties on a lake- let, and was warmly received. By meridian observation of the sun, the latitude of this "eighth encampment" was found to be ()4° 55' 1 9" N. On the lake were seen a number of snow- walls, measuring each nearly two-thirds of a circle of from four to five feet in diameter 164 Arrival at the River. iaphi, ises. and the same in height. The concave sides of these facing- south were sheltering the women and children while fishing for salmon through the openings which the men had cut. - Ar-too-a^s wife, being seized with a fit, was surrounded by her friends who were about giving her up, when Hall succeeded in restor- ing her by the use of medicine, completing the cure on her second attack. Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too suffered from severe colds which they took during the warm days, on one of which the tempera- ture was as high as 33°. 5. The freedom from colds among the natives was generally so marked that they attributed what discomfort they had to their having caught colds from the white men on their visit to the ships. On the 24th, Hall's party moved to his ninth igloo, and on the next day the boats were sent forward to gain a position near Wager River. The half-starved dogs were so ferocious as to be almost unmanageable, but their loads were borne forward by the help of a sail, rigged lug-fashion and spread to the southerly winds. They moved rapidly along. On the journey, Too-koo-li-too caught ''a whale of a salmon" weighing more than 15 pounds. It was 37 i inches long and 20 inches in circumference, a ^'■JonaW^ 13 inches long being found within it. Traveling again over the hard snow which covered the long narrow lakelets and the small space of land between them, the party made excellent time through this liighway between the rocks, which had been long known and frequented by the natives. Five heavily- loaded sleds })ushed forward, men, women, and children being har- nessed to each to assist the dogs, and on the 29th the party went into huts on the ice of the Wager, lat. 05° 1!)' N , long. 88° 40' W. The severely cold, cloudy, and hazy weather had produced snow-blind- ness, with which even Ebierbing had become afiected. p HAPTER y FROM THE WAGER TO FORT HOPE. MAY TO SEPTEMBER, 1865. CHAPTER VI The TiiiUTEENxn encampment made upon the Wageu River— a successful sealing season — Hall's own prize — Eejoicings at the first success of a young Innuit — Customs at THE birth of an INFANT — MOVING FROM KONG-MONGS INTO TU-PIKS — APPEARANCE OF THE DESERTED VILLAGE — AURORA — JoURNEY TO REPULSE BaY — REFRACTION — ENCAMPMENT ON OOG-LA-RIO-YOUR ISLAND — OU-E-LA'S DEXTERITY IN HUNTING — GaME SECURED — TlIE MAKING OF OOK-GOOK LINES — CLEARING OUT OF THE ICE — APPEARANCE OF THE WlIALER.S IN THE Welcome — Refraction — Storm — Treatment of the dogs — The tides — Death OF Shoo-she-ark-nook — Mourning customs — Renewed appearance of whalers in Repulse Bay — Capture of a whale by the crews of Hall's boats — EncampmexNT NEAR Fort Hope of Dr. Rae — Hall's notes of the rocks, stones, and sand found on the ice compared with Parry's observations. At the end of nine weary montlis Hall had now but reached the place on which he had expected to make his first landing. His encampment was next made on the ice out in the Wager. Its astro- nomical position when recorded, was followed by a note of the accu- rate judgment shown at the time by Ou-e-la and Ar-too-a "in keeping in their mind's eye so approximately the direction of distant points." When separately directing the compass at Hall's request toward Noo- wooJc, sixty-two miles distant, they pointed it in lines differing but one degree; and on Hall's applying the correction for declination, he found the bearing nearly agreeing with his own result. On the 3d of the month the party witnessed a fine auroral dis- play in the western sky; the color was nearly a medium between 167 168 Hairs First Capture. [inay, isos. silver and cream; the rays active and changeable; the sun was about one degree above the Wager's ice horizon, making the fleecy clouds brightly aglow. The hour was 8.20 p. m. The temperature for a number of days remained low, the readings being 37° and even 42° below freezing-point. Sealing, however, soon began to prove successful. Nu-ker-zJioo, with one stroke, harpooned a mother that had on her back a pup 3 feet 3 inches in length, and on Avhich the hair was beginning to take the place of its white woolly coat. Shortly after this, five other seals were taken. Under the guidance of the Innuits, and with the help of his own capital seal-dog Ou-e-Ia, on the 5th, Hall made his OAvn first but valued prize, a neit-yiik, weighing 200 pounds. Finding himself among the busy sealers on the ice, he soon heard Nu-ker-^hoo calling him to the seal-hole at which he was; and seating himself on a snow- block over the unseen hole, and there listening intently and scarcely moving a limb for one full hour, at last he heard a softly-breathing noise beneath the snow. Raising himself then cautiously to his feet, which rested on the furred took-too skin, and with his light hand pois- ing his oo-nar over the spot that Nu-ker-zlioo had imprinted in the snow over the seal-hole, with his full force he drove the spear vertically down, and instantly found that the blow was a telling one. The coil of the seal-line held in his left hand, began at once to run out; in fact, the Avliole of it was at first jerked out of his hand. But "quick as a flash," he says : I seized it again, or 1 would \vd\c, lost my prize, as well as the liaipoon aud line. The sealers far and netu' saw that I was fast to a seal, and although I ealled \o Nxi-lcer-zhoo^'-'-ldetc ! Idete!^'' — eonie here! come here! — there was no neees- sity for it, for befoni I uttered a word he and all the others were making their way to ine. Had 1 eaught a whale, there could not have been more siu-prised and Wlaj, 1865.1 Congratulations. 169 happy souls than were these Imuiits on liiHliii<>- I was really fost to a seal. Laughter, hilarity, joyous riugiug voices abounded. Almost the last Inmut who arrived to congratulate me was my good friend Ou-e-Ia, accomi)anied by his dog, dragging a seal which he had just captured. Last of all came the young ladies, Tuk-too and Xotc-yer, with dogs and sledge, and a seal which Ar-tnoti had taken a liftle while before. All this time nobody had seen my seal, for it was ilijiping away down in salt water beneath the snow and ice of Wager Eiver, still fast to one end of my line while I held on to the other. ^^ti-ler-zhoo, with his pelong (long knife), then cut away the snow, two feet in depth covering the seal-hole, and removing still more with mj spear, he chiseled away the ice-lining just above the hole. Soon the seal came up to breathe, and then the death-blow was given to it hj a thrust ixxuix uAi;poox-nF.ADs. of the spindle of the si^ear directly into the thin skull. The prize was drawn forth — a laiger seal than either Oxi-e-lcCs or Ar-mon's. Again the air resounded with shouts and joyous laughter. It was the first case among them of a white man's success in har- pooning. The party of fourteen immediately cut out the hver and a httle of the bhibber of each seal for their lunch, and carefully sewed up the slits, that none of the blood, so valued for soup, should be lost. They then buried the animals in the snow, to prevent their skins from blis- tering in the sun's rays, and still further prosecuted the hunt, dragging to their hom-mongs in the evening seven seals, the average weight of which was 200 pounds each. From that date, the living was on seal- meat exclusively for a number of days. It was a fair exchange for 170 The Kipe-Jcut-ta [May, ises. the Tioo-mucks (worms picked from the reindeer-carcasses), the soup from which the Innuits had been enjoying. They eat these even when their wings begin to form. For Hall's fatm'e success in sealing, Ow-e-Zamade him a kipe-kut-ta, a little rod of whalebone, about the size of a common knitting-needle, about 30 inches long, and pointed with a small sewing-needle, the other end having a thin string, 2 feet in length, to which is attached a peg. This was for a seal-signal, particularly to be used in windy weather when it is difficult to hear the breathing of the seal, or when the snow- covering of its hole is very deep. When the animal approaches its hole to blow or breathe, it will strike its head or neck against the needle-point and lift the slender and light kipe-kut-ta, slackening the string; this is the signal for the huntsman to deal his blow. This nee- dle is used only when really necessary ; for if the seal strike its nose or any tender part of its face against the point, it may become alarmed; or if the instrument should happen to chafe against the snow so as to produce a noise, the wary animal will at once become sus- picious and retreat. Sometimes the sealer has an advantage in its use when the seal, almost exhausted, is forced to gain access to the air even at the expense of its fears. Hall afterward used his signal-rod twice, but without any good fortune. Before the middle of the month success in the hunt had so in- creased that ten seals were caught on a single day. At this time, as fast as brought in, tliey were devoured, save the ook-sook (blubber). '* It is astonishing, even to me, to see the vast amount of meat that a company of Innuits can consume. They can live on little if little is all they have ; they do live on a great deal if abundance is obtained." Ilall relished venison even when much tainted, though bread and May, 1S63.] The Ftrst Seal CaugJd hy a Young Innuit. 171 coffee were welcome adjuncts. He thought young seal-flippers, hair and all except the finger-nails, tender and nice as a spring-chicken ; but of his experience, generally, of the effects of old seal and walrus meat, he says that for days after eating it, his tongue tasted badly, as though it were much furred, and that seal-meat alone or seal-meat with blubber is terrible on a white man — excessively constipating. On the Inuuits the effect is less serious. Cooked seal-blood when eaten becomes equivalent to the ^^tappen" of the she polar bear, which it produces by eating moss preceding hibernation ; indeed, it amounts almost to an immovable mechanical obstruction to what nature de- signed should have free way. Walrus-meat affects the system about the same way. Too-koo-li-too believed that the reason the lunuits are so dark-colored is because of their eating so much raw seal-meat and blood ; and that the Kinna-patoos, whose country is in the vicinity of Chesterfield Inlet, must be a lighter-skinned people, as they never eat raw seal-meat. Hall remarks, in connection with this, that Innuit babies when quite young are nearly white. The first exploit in seal-catching by a young native is thus detailed : The mother of the boy Ivee-chuck came to the entrance of our kom-mong, her whole frame shaking with joy, whUe she told the news she had just heard, that her son had harpooned and killed a seal in its hole. Then she went from lorn- monff to lom-mong, notifying the women that her son was on his way back with the prize, and started off with all speed to meet him. I watched every movement closely. As she met him, the dogs were stopped and the joyous mother embraced her darling successful boy, then stooped and patted the seal as though it were a living pet. She next disengaged the dogs' harness from the draught-line, and started toward her Icom-mong^ dragging the seal after her, when the women, with their oodloos, hastened to meet her. It was a woman's race. Old Oolc-har-loo hobbled along as fast as she could, but was left far behind, and, therefore, she 172 Innuit Customs. [May, ises. kept crying out in lier native vernacular for lier competitors not to go too fast. Though this old petulant creature's commands are usually obeyed, they were not regarded this time, for the race proved a hot one, though the surroundings were nothing but heavy ice, hard snow, and very cold air. As fast as the women came up to the seal which the mother was dragging, they fell upon it and slashed away right and left with their ood-loos, till the poor defunct was completely haggled into as many pieces as there were hagglers.* Old Ool-har-loo, having arrived late, only got a small poi'tion of the seal — the liver, heart, and lights. Too-koo-li-too in the contest succeeded in getting a hind quarter, consisting of meat, blubber, skin, and flipper. Some women got more and others less, though they left what their customs required — the head, neck, fore flippers, and some of theblubber and meat, — for embellishing the igloo where the youthful victor resides. What remained was dragged to the igloo by the joyous mother, and thus ended the public celebration. The first seal caught in open water and the first one taken by watching over an ice-hole are occasions for hke demonstrations of joy, in which all usually share, except those who have been afflicted by death in their families during the year. The tracks of the reindeer were now frequently seen. Ebierbing failed in securing some bucks through his snow-blindness ; in a few days, however, he was well, and, witli his usual skill, caught two seals, of which he gave pieces to the different families and piled up the rest on the floor of Hall's kom-mong, making it look like a slaughter-house. On the 12th, cue of Ar-moiCs wives, who had given birth to a child on the 5th, was now permitted by the Innuit customs to come again from her separate igloo into the family hut ; not, however, by the common passage-way, but, at the decision of Old IMother Ook-bar- * Hall does not }>ivi: the, dimensions of the seals captured. It may be of interest to note the measurements given hy Captain Lyon in his narrative of a voyage to the same region. The num- ber of seals daily seen by his ofhcers was large, and their boldness made them an easy prey. Four were killed one evening, two of which (the I'lioca Jlarhalu, or bearded seal,) weighed from eight to nine hundredweight. The length of one from nose to insertion of the tail was 8 feet ; the length of the fore Hipper, 10 inches ; of hind tlipi)er, 1 foot 3^ inches ; the circumference of tho belly was 7 feet; tho circumference of the head behind the ears, 2 feet 5 inches ; tho circumference of the uose, 1 foot 4 inches. Way, 1865.] A Sledge Trip. 173 loo, by an opening- cut for the purpose through the snow-wall. She was now to keep a little skin-bag hung up near her into which she must put a little of her food at each meal, having first put it up to her mouth. This is called laying up food for the infant, although none is given to it. For a year from the birth, the mother must eat neither anything raw nor that which has been wounded in the heart. Hall notes that a birth occurring on a journey occasions no delay ; the In- nuits of this locality differing as to this in a marked degree from those further east. The mother is almost as well as ever an hour after the birth. The new-comer nestles at its birth in its took-too bed (its mother's hood), as naked as when born, and it usually remains without clothing for at least two years. It now became very desirable to go down the coast 32 miles southward and bring up the four whale-boats which belonged to Hall and three of the natives, and the stores of the expedition with the medicine-chest and other deposits, in order that an advance might soon be made toward Repulse Ray. A well-known disease, which threatened to sweep off very many of their dogs, having already de- stroyed several, this journey became the more urgent. Accompanied by Ebierbing and five others, with three sledges and twenty dogs, on the 15th, Hall crossed the Wager, and, after tracking a bear, ascended the high land to examine the condition of the bay. Two miles down, a heavy black cloud hanging over it extended from shore to shore, showing much ice drifting out with the swift ebb-tide. The journey occupied the traveling hours from seven in the morn- ing of the 13th to 10 a. m. of the following day, some time having been given, however, to the hunt of took-too. It had become so light at midnight that no stars were visible. Hall feasted in the igloo on 174 The Kom-mongs Falling in. (May, ises. the head and brains of a deer ; his companions deHghted themselves with the worms found under the skin. A severe gale surprising the party after they had lashed their boats on the sleds to return, they halted, and Hall cooked a large quantity of deer-meat and treated the company to so much hot punch that they began to utter confused sen- tences, and retired at 8 p. m. On the 16th, Ou-e-la with much tact pushed forward the heavily- loaded sleds, and, although he lost several dogs, at last brought up the boats on the ice of the Wager, launched them for a sail of two hours on its open water, and then again sledded them over to their latest encampment, reaching it at midnight of the 18th. On their route they had visited Ar-lig-ouk-lig, a place which has the appearance, on approaching it from the north or west, of an inverted whale-boat. A ^HableV^ was found here, 50 feet in height and 25 feet in width. The place is considered sacred by the Innuits, who made at this time a deposit there, with an address and a solemn farewell. In a crevice 5^ feet from the ice a lead ball was now placed, marked " Hall, 1865." On the crest of a hill, some dista^nce further on, were found six circles of stones which Ou-e-la said were the remains of the tu-pi1xs of Innuits long since dead ; and that here they made their stopping-place when passing from Noo-wook to Oo-koo-ish-ee-lik. The rapid advance of the warm season again required a change of residence. The kom-mongs^ or half-snow houses, Avere untenantable by the snow-drippings. When broken down, their remains, mixed up with masses of blubber, broken and uncouth native utensils, and fihh, presented a strong contrast to the beautiful arched and solid domes as described by Hall in the previous autumn.* •Captain Lyon, in his jonrnal kept during Parry's second voyage, 1821-23, says of a like sccn?^ Terr, ^.^^ShipsHbr.'M.s. L S E BAY ■•... Ooglariyour i:« ^ZuEncP Cap .^ V O- se^no June, 1865.1 Eefradion. 179 gratulations on his return to the tupiks. With the assistance of Ebier- bing-'s Hke tact, Hall wounded a deer, which he endeavored to drive or lead in toward his tent; but when the strap of the marine glass was fastened around its head, the untamed animal reared, kicked, danced, butted, and cut such wild capers that, within a quarter of a mile of home, they were compelled to knock it on the head. Ebierbing-, on a visit with some others to Oog-la-ri-your Island, caught twenty-six seals on the same day. Ou-e-la brought in, besides three deer, several pin- tail ducks, with their eggs which were of a greenish cast, but smaller than those of the eider; — of the size of hen-eggs only. On the afternoon of the 26th, from the top of a little hill, Hall observed a remarkable instance of refraction. The mountains of Southampton Island, which are of no great height and their slopes gentle, appeared to be very high and precipitous ; an irregular chain was converted into a huge plateau. A descent of even 5 feet from his position made the mountains appear nearly natural; one of 10 feet entirely so. In his excursions he met with two specimens only of iron ore resting on primitive rock. On the 1st day of July he moved a short distance to the Island of Oog-la-ri-your, where the larger number of his Innuit friends had already encamped for more conveniently hunting the seal. On remov- ing their tupiks, the blubber which had been saved was stored away in seal-skin '■'■drugs^'' and deposited in a cache for winter use. When making these bags they took off the skin from the animal unbroken except by a small opening about the head, and when this cut was made, a knife was thrust in longitudinally and used freely until the blubber was completely separated from the skin; the fore flipper was jointed. BOAT JOURNEYS IN 1865 WINTER QUARTERS 1865-66 Bra.wTL' by A . L\-n.dcn.hohl- 180 Too-koo-li-too III. [juir, i865. The seal was then worked out by the hole made at the head. If any small rent had been accidentally made, it was carefully sewed up before filling. Just before their removal to Oog-la-ri-your, the natives had been suffering from very severe colds and pains in the chest ; some had entirely lost their voices. Hall's medicines had been in frequent requisition, particularly for the relief of SJioo-she-arJc-nook, now saved a second time from dying; but he believed that the improvement in their habits of living which he had induced the natives to make, had yet more to do with his success as a practitioner. His own health was again gen- erally good. On the top of this island of Ooglariyour were the remains of the merry Ivit-chuk of Dr. Rae's party, and those of his wife. Ou-e-la told Hall that at one time very many Innuits lived there, but nearly all had died off. He was detained at this twenty-second encampment, lat. 66° 19', long. 85° 23', throughout the whole month and until the 7th of August, by the severe illness of Too-koo-li-too from an attack of pneumonia. His notes on one of the days of her illness are : " Her symptoms are of the most serious character. She raises blood direct from her lungs. I feel that I have neglected to teach these children of the North their religious duties. Indeed, I feel that I need myself a teacher, and I am brought to know that I need a new heart. 0, may I learn from the glorious Bible my duty, and by the help of God per- form it." He much interested her by reading from the scripture his- tory, especially that of Joseph, which story she in turn went over again to her husband. Hannah was still under the influence of super- stition. It required a long and patient reasoning to convince her when sick that she could eat anything which Ou-e-la brought in, for the joir, 1863.) Mode of Cutting uip the Ook-gook. 181 natives had told her something- was wrong at his birth. She was at times persuaded to drink the soup out of which Hall was accustomed to eat some of Ou-e-ld!s took-too meat. The natives were industriously occupied in boat and sledge jour- neys, securing a large amount of game for their subsistence through the coming winter. By the close of the month, the footing up showed twelve seals, nine ook-gooks, thirty-seven deer, and a bear, besides four ducks and thirty-eight eggs. Hall's advice secured this increase, as well as the preservation of the well-dried meat in drugs of oil, in which it would keep sweet and fresh and already " buttered." He witnessed the mode of cutting up ook-gook and preparing from its skin the lines for securing the walrus, as well as for sledge tracings and lashings. From an ook-gook 9 feet in length the skin was cut into strips, and then stretched by block and tackle between the rocks. When suffi- ciently dried, the strips were made soft and pliable by rubbing and chewing. The land of civilization, he says, has nothing equaling these lines in strength and endurance of wear and tear. In the divis- ion made in cutting up the animal, a woman received an equal share with each of the men. The ice on the coast still remaining hummocky, it was very difficult to get a heavy ook-gook upon the island ; yet, if the carcass was insufficiently covered with snow, ice, or deer-skins, the burning rays of the sun in a few moments destroyed the skin ; or if the bear made its ready visit, it struck its huge claws through the tough coat, completely riddling it and tearing out the meat and blubber. On the 22d, Hall visited the whaler Black Eagle, on board of which he had an opportunity of comparing and rating his chronome- ters. The first whaler of the season had been sighted on the 15th by 182 Whalers in SigM. fjaiy, ises. Ou-e-Ia, who had instantly harnessed up his dogs and hastened off to infoiTu Hall. On Nu-ker-zJwo's coming in to confirm the report, he was directed to bring the longest pole he could find to the top of the island and fasten on it one of the American flags as a signal. At thirty minutes past midnight, with some little difficulty on account of the fog, the vessel was descried a little to the westward of Cape Frigid. The sight was sufficiently exciting and joyous to Hall to keep all sleep from him. He sent Ou-e-la to occupy his own took-too bed, while he went again and again to the crest of the island to watch the vessel and the movements of the ice ; and he was very soon able to make out a second visitor traversing the Welcome from east to west, and then returning on the opposite tack. He hoped to find that these were the Antelope and the schooner Helen F., which had been winter- ing at Depot Island and Marble Island ; for he remembered that Cap- tain Chapel had advised him that these vessels, as soon as released from the ice, would cruise for whales in Repulse Bay. He was par- ticularly anxious to discover some lead in the pack through which the Sylvia might be pulled by the strong arms of the Innuits to the ships, as he expected they would have on board a team of dogs for him, the captains having promised to bring all the dogs, which would be of no further use to them after the spring whaling was finished They had been chiefly useful in sledging the blubber over the floe which lay between the ships and the open water. From any attem})t to go out to his visitors when first sighted he had ])een entirely held back by a storm breaking over the island. In describing this, he says : Yesterday iiiorniiig, the sky was overcast aud gloomy, tlie weather h)oking threatening as if a storm wouhl soon be upon us ; and, besides, at 1()..'}0 a. m. of July, 1865.] The Storm. 183 tlie IJrtli, a thick fog, the tirst of the kind that 1 remember has occurred this season, commenced rising over the open water southward, and by 11 a. m. it was driven here by a southeast wind, enveloping the island in it. The succeeding morning, the fog was again over the open water and over the ice of Repulse Bay, the wind still southeast and south-southeast. From the morning of the 13th the barometer began to fall, standing then 30j^o inches; it gradually continued fall- ing to Saturday morning, the 16th, from which time to evening it dropped down three-tenths of an inch. In connection with all this, I may mention what some might consider a trifle ; nevertheless it shall have a place here. A small i)Ool or reservoir of fresh water is close by the tupilc, xao^^tly on solid rock, but one side of it consists of moss and grass growing over cobblestones. Now, this pool rises and fjills quite as regularly as the tide, though only about one-half as often. During the night the water of this reservoir falls, and from morning to evening it rises. The rise and fall seems to be quite uniform in height one day after another. Last night this water was nearly exhausted. Indeed, when I saw it just before the thunder-storm I was greatly surprised to find it so. This with other indications told unmistakably that something unusual was about to transpire in nature's elements. At 2.30 a. m. the first thunder-clap that I have ever heard in the northern regions occurred, the same being preceded by sharp lightning. A little while after, loud thunder pealed forth here, there, eveiywhere around Repulse Bay, especially away in the direction of Gibson's Cove, the extreme northwestern part of Repulse Bay, where were such jjiles of heavy black clouds — Heaven's electric battery — and such a continuous roar of thunder therefrom that I could not help thinking of the Almighty hand which holds the elements. The storm ended at 4.20 a. m. Ar-mou told Hall he had seen ou-mer, (lightning,) twice at Ig- loo-lik. His people never knew it to kill an Innuit. To-koo-li-too said in her country it struck red dogs ; so they always killed such when puppies. The old woman E-vit-shung gave a specimen of her treatment of her own dogs, which was amusing though severe. She found them one day asleep when tied up to the rocks, as was often neces- sary to prevent their cutting with their teeth into the oil-drugs and meat ; a valuable drug had just been almost entirel}- ruined. This, 184 Stoning the Bogs. ijmy, ises. however, was not the cause of E-vit-shung' s fearful pounding. When she arrived where some of the dogs were constantly kept fast to the rocks by long thongs, she stopped and commenced pelting one of the largest with stones. Every time she made a throw, she spoke to the dog as though he could comprehend Innuit speech. What she did say amounted simply to this : " Here you are, old dog, aud all the rest of you, sleeping and basking in the hot sun's rays all day, and at night wide awake, howling, barking, and crying, keeping me and all others about from getting any quiet sleep ; and now, old fel- low, I am giWng you these stones for pay. As for the rest of you brutes, I will give you some another time." Her throws were of some account so far as this goes. She hit every time, and made the dog cry wofully. Each time she picked up a stone and held it in her hand, the dog watched her closely. Several false-throw motions were first made by the old woman, and when the dog ceased dodging, out would fly the huge stone from her hand, hitting him on the head, nose, or other parts of the body. My laughing so heartily was from the business-like manner in which the old lady addressed the dog during the severe castigation she was administering to it. If E-vit-shung can whip Innuit dogs a long time after they have done their evil work and make them understand just what their cbas- Usement is for, then either she has a supernatural power, or the Innuit dogs are intelligent beings, moral agents, so to callthem. The old woman had been doing better service in the early part of the day by bringing word to Hall of the blowing of a whale, which she and her companion in the tupik had heard. Hall says that the dogs are both a blessing and a curse ; — almost constantly in mischief, opening seal-blubber drugs, howling all night, and ofttimes stealing into tents and abstracting meat, eating harness and walrus-lines. There is no end to the damage these brutes are all the time surreptitiously doing. But, on the other hand, in winter which includes about three-fourths of the year, they are of such value as draught animals, and as bear, musk-ox, and seal-dogs, that, with all their Angnst, 1865. The Endurance of the Eskimo Dor/. 185 depredations, on no consideration could the Innuits do without them. The severitv with which thev treat these friends has been more than once noted. Ar-mou and Ou-e-Ja beat several of them to death with an oar, and at one time with a hatchet. Their tenacity of life appears ESKIMO DOG. [ From a photograph of Captain Chapel's. ] plainly in the midst of their sufferings when drawing such heavy loads wliile half famished, and in their endurance of unmerciful poundings. A case is cited, too, in which an animal pierced with several rifle- balls recovered his full strength, although sick when shot. On the 6tli of this month, scarcely any ice was to be seen in Mid- dleton's Frozen Strait, the Welcome, or Repulse Bay. Hall thought 186 Death of SJioo-she-arJc-nook. [August, ises. the term Frozen Strait a misnomer, being informed that it is never entirely closed. Refraction was much less marked than any which he had observed for many weeks past. The nights growing dark, he could no longer write up his notes in the tupik at midnight. Mosquitoes, which had first showed themselves July 10, were now filling the air; the number caught in the fresh paint which Nu-ker-zJioo had put upon his boat was beyond computation. The water-supply was renewed from a pool on the surface of an ice-floe near the island. The party who procured this could have secured a whale lying a little distance off", with his back out of the water, if their weapons had been at hand. Two other whales were seen by others the same day. Ou-e-la, who had made an encampment about five miles to the north, for better salmon fishing, was espied by Ar-moii coming down under sail, and on landing proceeded directly to Hall's tupik to inform him of the death of his much-beloved brother, SJioo- she-ark-nook. He received Hall's warmest sympathy, which he well knew he had reason to expect from the experience of a visit during a late serious accident in his family. His eldest son had fractured his skull by a fall upon the rocks among the hummocks, and although Ou-e-la had healed the fracture by applying the powerful suction of his mouth to bring the pieces together, he came to his old friend to tell him of the accident and its effect upon his wife in her peculiar situation. He now brought sad news. "Strange customs have these Innuits. Neither Ou-e-la nor his brother Ar-too-a will now smoke, though they both are great smokers. They retain upon their heads the usual covering from morning till night. This covering at any other time, and especially when entering a tupik, is thrown back, leaving the head bare. To this head-covering August, 1805.] Encampment on Haviland Bay. 187 the skin and feathers of a pee-tu-lark^s head were fastened, and a feather of the same water-fowl to each arm, just above the elbow. Ou-c-la and each of the male relatives of SJioo-she-ark-nook have a belt around the waist. Then, besides, they constantly wear mittens. On offering Ou-e-la some coffee, bread, and venison, he declined taking any, because he must have food cooked for himself separate from others during the term of mourning." On the 7th, Hall with his party removed to the west side of Havi- land Bay, making the passage in a rain-storm in just five hours — 2^ to ,H knots per hour — on a northwest course across the mouth of the bay. The storm had begun from the southeast on the night previous to their setting out from the twenty-second encampment ; but the weather clear- ing during the day, the party had embarked on four boats ; the Sylvia and the Lady Franklin, with the boats of Ou-e-la and Nu-ker-zlioo. All were well laden with drugs of seal-blubber, sledges, dogs, men, women, and children, and the usual Innuit chattels. A breeze from the north- east favored them on a part of the voyage, but torrents of rain fell, and the greatest care was taken by all the party of Too-koo- li-too, who had been so long an invalid. The landing was made with ease at low tide, but to find a suitable place for the tupiks was diffi- cult, as the rocks were everywhere dished, had pools in every excava- tion, and were sending down streams of water in every direction. The Innuits who had preceded Hall in removing from Oo-glari-your Island occupying the only available dry spot, he was obliged to take the most convenient one above high-water mark. At midnight the tupiks were completed, and the party comfortably housed at this new encampment, lat. Q>Q° 31' N., long. 85° 50' W. 188 A Woman An- ge-ko Questioning ^^ Sidney." lAngu.t, ises. In the interval of a clear sky on their journey, two vessels had been again sighted at a distance to the southward; but indistinctly through the mist. Not even their masts would have been above the horizon, if refraction had not brought them up and their duplicates also; each vessel, from the water-line about it to the truck being matched by its complete image inverted, hulk to hulk, and all sus- pended in the clouds above the sea horizon. The day following, the two ships, the Black Eagle and the Ansel Gibbs, again appeared, beating up Repulse Bay. They anchored near an island to the south- west. Ebierbing and Ou-e-la had volunteered at a late hour of the night previous to go out to these ships in the offing. The wind fresh- ening to a gale, Ou-e-la, more cautious than Ebierbing, soon returned; but the latter, after causing Hall much anxiety for many hours, still remained out of sight. As he had with him in the Sylvia Nu-ker- zlioo, Oung-oo-cJioo, and Tuk-too, their old mother, E-vit-shung who felt that all her earthly treasures were in danger, invested herself witli the office of an an-ge-ko; and after having by the dawn of day satisfied herself by the answers of " Sidney," that although the Sylvia could not reach the ships, it would come back safe, she had relieved the minds of the other Innuits. In her communing with the spirit, she had been throwing her left hand continually around, giving a twisting motion to the thong which she had tied to a heavy stone, and "Sidney's" answers had come to her by his increasing or diminishing the weight of this stone. When the party returned, they reported that they had made a landing until the storm subsided, and having their fire-amis with tliem had made a successful took-too hunt. Before their arrival several boats' crews put off from the ships to visit Hall, for whom they had beea looking when passing Oo-gla-ri- Aagnst, 1865.] A VisU froM the Black Eagle. 189 your Island. He records with much feeling the emotions which he experienced when the mate of the Black Eagle leaped ashore from the first boat and hailed him with the news, " The war is ended ! but our President is assassinated." '' This thunderbolt transfixed me to the spot ; that the war was ended was what I had fondly anticipated I would learn ; but who of my worthy countrymen would be pre- pared for such news — ' Our President is assassinated.' " This with many other items of an interest fully to be appreciated by one so long shut out from the civilized world, was afterward placed in full before him in the files of New York and Boston papers which had been received by the whalers from the Daniel Webster at Marble Island, The best feeling continued to prevail between Hall and the cap- tains of the two whalers during their stay. On his visits to their ships, he informed them of the places in which a number of black whales had been seen by himself and by the Innuits, who had also seen many white whales (Belphinus Albicans), which were small. As to the color of these, the natives said that it was the young ones but two or three years old which retain the walrus or brown hue ; the old ones {kil-lee-lu-yers) are white. He regretted that the other whalers did not come up into the bay to share in the partial success of the Ansel Gibbs and the Black Eagle. Being informed on the 20th that they did not design to winter here and thought it best not to risk any fur- ther detention, he spent a whole night on board one of the ships writ- ing up his journals and dispatches to friends at home. The letters of Captain Kilmer written at this time show his deep interest in the friend whom he was leaving, and gave practical proof of it by advising him of a deposit of provisions and stores made for him on shore. Hall notes Ou-e-la's honesty in keeping for him a num- 190 HaWs Crew Capture a Whale. [August, ises. ber of small articles also entrusted to his care by the captain ; he had stimulated the natives to secure for the ships as many deer as possi- ble. The two vessels left the bay on the 21st. Their crews had secured a number of whales — eight on the 15th and 16th — the oil and bone of which Hall estimated to be worth $25,000. The first opportunity now offered itself for the successful issue of one of the important elements in the original plan presented to the friends of the expedition in New York in 1862 — the capture of Avhales which would repay in part the advances made for the outfit. After a number of cruises in the boats without being able to come quite within striking distance, on the 30th he was congratulated by all his Innuit friends for the success of the day. With his party of men and boys he left the tupiks at 4 a. m., to hunt a whale which had been for some time previous blowing around. The Sylvia and the Lady Franklin gave swift chase to the westward, but, after an hour's cruise, during which the whale made several risings, they were un- able to get close enough, although they came almost upon it when rowing from an opposite direction around an islet A second whale was, however, almost immediately seen half a mile to the south- west, when the sails were quickly set and j^addles and oars vigor- ously plied by the crews of both boats, " each of which ran down the leg of a V, the whale at its joining point." Ou-e-la, from the bow of the Lady Franklin which reached the goal a few seconds before the Sylvia, threw a whale's harpoon to which was attached a line of 20 fathoms, having at its end two druf/s (floats). One of these was the forward part of an ooh-gooli skin, the covering of the head and flippers being as entire as when upon the living animal, with the August, 1S65.] The Whale Cached. 191 exception of the transverse seam ; the other was the entire skin of a neit-yuk. Both were filled with air compressed by the stout lungs of an Innuit. Their dotible object was to indicate where the whale was and to tire it down. When Ou-e-la's iron struck into the back of the whale, it gave one slap of its flukes and went below the white seeth- ing waters, at first disappointing Hall, who thought it was now lost. He had furnished Ou-e-la on setting out with a full length of line, and was not acquainted with this Innuit use of floats.* But while the boats lay to, watching for a re-appearance, the drugs were seen far out in the bay flying over the waters, though with decreasing speed, and on the whale's again coming up to blow, it received a harpoon from Nu- ker-zhoo at the bow of the Sylvia, and Ou-e-Ia^s iron drew. The whale again turned flukes for soundings, taking out with him half of the Syl- via's whale-line ; it then immediately struck seaward, dragging the boat thi'ough the water with great speed. On its coming up and blow- ing, Oii-e-la lanced it from the Lady Franklin. It died within one hour from the first attack. The anchor was dropped from the Sylvia, the corners of the whale's flukes were cut ofi", its mouth tied up, and the fins taken one into each boat. The towing of the animal to a floe was made with slow^ progress against head tide, but at 1 p. m, the prize was taken into a small cove near the tupiks. Hall had breakfasted on raw mtik-tuk as soon as the whale was killed. The Innuits, though equally fond of the skin, could not join him, because they had already eaten took-too; in obe- * Captain Eoss, in his Narrative (1818), describes the native harpooning witnessed hy him in the Greenland Seas : " The harpoon has a barb about 3 inches long, and a line attached to it of about 5 fathoms in length, the other end of -which is fastened to a buoy of a seal's skin made into a bag and inflated. The blade is fixed on the end of a shaft in such a manner that it may be disen- gaged from the handle after it is fixed in the .animal, and the shaft is then pulled back by a liue tied to it for the purpose. W^hen the animal is struck, he carries down with him the seal-skin buoy, which fatigues him. As he must come up to rcsijire, he is followed up and killed l»y spears." 192 Winter Quarters Made at llae^s Fort Hope, (scpiembcr, jsos. dience to a like superstitious idea, three days must elapse after the capture of the whale before any work could be done. Oi) the day following, the carcass was cut up and cached amid scenes of feasting-. Fifteen hundred pounds of the bone, designed by Hall for the benefit of his expedition, were securely deposited to be available on the return of the whalers to the bay in the following fall. The amount of game secured during the month was very small. The Innuits thought that the deer had been frightened off by the smell of the trying out (boiling the oil from) the blubber on the whalers before they sailed. A much greater amount of rain had fallen than Hall had expe- rienced at any like period during his first expedition. The natives said that it was very unusual, accounting for it by the fact that during the winter there had been little snow, and but few fogs in the spring, and that these heavy and continuous showers were now making up the deficiency in moisture. The general movement of the ice under the influence of the tides, winds, and currents, was from Frozen Strait and Hurd's Channel up Repulse Bay, and thence south and out through the Welcome. At times the bay itself was entirely filled with ice ; sometimes the straits were blocked ; occasionally both the bay and its entrances were free. On the 4th of September, Hall made his twenty-sixth encamp- ment, on the banks of North Pole River, near the Fort Hope of Dr. Rae. This was to be his winter quarters, in which he would prepare for his sledge journey next season to the west. From this point, also, he would make a survey of the bay, his observations of the coast line already made having satisfied him that tin improvement of the charts September, 1865.J RocJcs ttTid Detris ofi tliB Icc. 193 could be made for the whalers. Steadfast in the purpose to succeed in the several objects of his voyage, he had declined to accept offers from the whalers of a passage home. When he now set up his tu-2)Uc the glories of a beautiful sunset were changing the Arctic hues of the landscape into tropical warm coloring, and filling the grayish, cool atmosphere with an unnatural brilliancy. HALL'S NOTES ON FINDING ROCKS AND DEBRIS ON THE ICE. The journal of the 25th of July contains the following items of interest to the scientist : This evening I have taken a walk among the grounded bergy pieces of ice that are near the west side of this island, and also on to the heavy masses of ice that are high and dry on the rocks on the northwest side. Spring-tides at this season of the year open a book that any Arctic traveler delights to read and study. The special part of this book of nature that 1 am at present reading, relates to stones, rocks, and sand found on the ice. The question among Arctic navigators has been, " How came these here?" Parry, when on his second voyage for the discovery of the Northwest Passage, met with much ice in the neighborhood of Southampton Island, on the surface of which he saw a surprising quantity of stone, sand, shells, and weed ; and respecting these he makes the following re- marks in his Narrative of said voyage, pages 32 and 33. " While on this subject, I may offer a few remarks respecting the stone, sand, shells, and weed found upon the surface of all ice in this neighborhood. The quantity in which these substances have occurred was really surprising, and puzzled us extremely to account for the manner in which they found then* way upon the floe. This circumstance has been generally explained by simply at- tributing it to the whole floe having been in immediate contact with the land, enabling the streams to wash, or the winds to blow these substances into the sit- uation in which they are found, in the same manner as they are deposited on bergs found on the shore. But to those who have been eye-witnesses of the fact to the extent in which it here occurred, this mode of explaining it, however plausi- ble at first sight, is by no means satisfactory ; for masses of rock, not less than a hundred pounds in weight, are sometimes observed in the middle of a floe meas- S. Ex. 27 13 194 Rods and Debris on the Ice. uring half a mile or more each way, and of which the whole surface is more or less covered with smaller stones, sand, and shells. To supj)ose the wind strong enough to blow these substances such a distance would be absurd ; nor is the supposition of their having been washed there scarcely more probable, for as a floe ot ice must float considerably above the surface of the sea, it is not easy to conceive how it can be overflowed, and much less how heavy stones can be car- ried half a mile along it. It has been suggested that the floe may be held down by its firm cementation to the shore while the water from the laud above it rushes in a torrent along its ui)per surface. This, however, is contrary to expe- rience, which shows that long before the streams on the land are sufiBcient to effect this, the ice next the shore is completely thawed and detached from the beach, and, therefore, at liberty to float in the natural way. The only explana- tion of this fact that I can suggest is, that, as it is generally found to be the case to the greatest extent upon the 'Immmocky' floes, the substances may have been deposited upon each mass of ice when separate, and eventually brought into the middle of a large floe by the process detailed above. This explanation, how- ever, goes but a little way toward clearing up the dififlculty ; for, besides the necessity of supposing, in this case, that each mass of ice has in its turn been brought into close contact with the shore, we have never seen an instance in any bay or harbor where ice so brought, even under the most favorable circum- stances, has received any such deposit. In whatever manner it may be efl'ected, it is certain that these substances act an essential part in the dissolution of the ice, as even the smallest stone or collection of sand may always be observed to have formed a pool of water around it in consequence of the radiation of heat fi'om its surface." It will be seen nearly at the commencement of these remarks of Parry, that he says: "The quantity in which these substances have occurred was reaUy sur- prising, and puzzled us extremely to account for the manner in which they found their way upon the floes." The same subject has puzzled many a man, but I am confident the fact is as follows: The stones, sand, shells, and weeds are not deposited upon the surface of the ice; they simply are seen or appear there, as the ice evaporates or wastes away, which it eventually does more rapidly, of course, as warm weather comes on. These stones and other substances are picked up from the bottom of shalloAv waters by the ice resting awhile upon them and becoming cemented to them by the fingers of King Cold during low tide; and when the flocxl makes, uj) goes ice with its ponderous piclcings. But, to begin at Bocks and Debris on the Ice. 195 the beginning, cold weather comes on ; the waters become cold, and, growing colder as winter advances, ice forms; the tides all the time never forgetting their regu- lar order of flood and ebb. As the spring-tides come on, during their ebb, in many shallow parts of Hudson's Bay, sheets of ice rest upon rocks, stones, shells, and weeds. These sheets of ice, as they lie, send down showers upon the already moist bottom, all of which con glaciate at once into a solid mass by the piercing, pinching cold of the north. Eoclis and stones, shells and weed, sheets of ice, and what was tTickling water become one solid body. The tide now floods and lifts the floe, having on its nether surface a ponderous load of earthy matter. Before another ebb. Bang Cold has succeeded in adding several inches of ice under- neath the structure of rocks, stones, land, shells, and weeds, which are now com- pletely enveloped in crystal. Ebb and flood succeed each other, and as often add a stone or other foreign matter, and then another stratum of ice to the floe or smaller pieces of ice that during certain intervals are afloat or aground. I Avill now proceed to give some proof of all this I have stated. Three winters I have spent in the northern regions, two of them in the locality of Frobisher Bay. Many times have I seen in the springs succeeding these winters, stones, sand, shells, and weeds on the top of bay-ice, or such ice as had been formed on shallow waters. As warm weather advanced and the ice wasted away, more and more of these substances would appear. My attention was more particularly directed to this subject during my search on my voyage of 1860-'62 for one of the relics of Frobisher in the Countess of Warwick's Sound, on the north side of Frobisher Bay. The natives had told me where one of their i)eople had thrown an anvil, some five years before, from a rock by the bold shore of Oo-pung-ne-wing Island into the sea. They were quite sure I could find this relic on the disruption and drift- ing away of the ice in the summer, providing I would be at the above-named island at some low spring-tide. Corresponding to their advice, I visited the island in the summer of 18G2, and at low tide the rock bottom all about the i)lace indicated from whence the anvil had been thrown, was just above water; but no anvil could be found ; indeed, not a loose stone was thereabout. The shore-ice had licked ui> everything movable, not leaving even so valuable a relic as the one sought, three centuries old. The manner in which this relic was lost to the world any one can judge on reading what I have now written. The shore-ice having enveloped the anvil in its crystal walls daring t-lie winter season, on its being free from land in the succeeding summer, drifted away with what would have been to me a valuable treasure. Had that piece of shore-ice been seen by 196 Rocks and Debris on the Ice. some one at some particular time afterward, while it was wasting away, drifting and straggliug about, no doubt but the anvil would have appeared as though deposited on it. I come now down to the present time, to what can now be seen on and near the shore of this island. The present spring-tides have opened a rich field for study. They have by their wonderful action shown me how quickly they can transform the "thrice-ribbed ice" into dancing sparkling waters; how quickly they can tear away and destroy mountain barriers of ice, giving free waters for ships to sail in. These spring-tides have just been riijping up huge masses of ice lining the shores, and such ice as the winter's cold formed over the shallow waters near to the island on its western side. Could Parry and others who were puzzled extremely to account for the manner in which stones, saud, shells, and weed found their way upon the floe, but have seen what I have wit- nessed this evening, they would no longer have had any question about the matter. There is one mass of ice lying within a couple of stone-thi-ows of nij' tiipik, which is some G feet in thickness and 50 by 100 feet square. The ebbing tide has left one corner of this resting on another piece equally thick, which lies directly flat on the rocky bottom that is now bare from low tide. The position of this piece of ice, with its corner thus resting on another piece, is on an incline, showing its top, sides, and bottom most favorably. The whole mass consists of strata of stones, rocks, and sand and ice, the strata running parallel with tLe top and bottom of this frozen mass. From the top of this piece, stones are peering out. Near one end is a rock of 150 pounds weight, or more, nearly denuded of ice. As can be seen at the sides and ends, irregular thicknesses of layers of stones and sand occur. The upper j)art of this ice is much freer of those substances than the lower half. Comparatively, but few stones and small collections of sand are in the upper portion, while the beds below consist of an astonishing quantity. Indeed, the bottom is a stratum of nothing but rocks, stone, and sand that are glued together by invisible ice. Just above this bottom layer is a sheet of six inches in thickness of sea-ice, and then a little higher up, comes another layer of rocks, stones, and sand, following which is clear ice again. I should judge that at least two or three toim of earthy matter is frozen into that one jiiece of ice that I have just described. But this piece of ice is only one of the many that are now to be seen lying around on the rocks left bare by the ebb-tide. Some have only a few stones upon and in them. This feature is, however, plainly to be seen in nearly all, that the stones and ice are in strata. During the day much ice has Bocks and Debris on the Ice. 197 been drifting along by this island, and every now and then pieces of ice bore upon their surface stones and rocks fully exposed. As the waves lifted them up, rock- ing them to and fro, exposing one side or one end of each of these, strata of stones were to be seen. These masses of ice had been disengaged from a belt of huui- mucky floe that was a i)art of the fixed ice during the past winter in Haviland Bay. How these masses of ice charged with earthy matter get into the midst of a fixed floe overlying deep water is easilj' accounted for. A cold summer jier- haps succeeds the winter, and before this ice is dissolved, another winter sets in and fastens it firmly iu the midst of a new floe, or surrounds it with old hum- mocky ice; all of which becomes cemented together by the advancing cold, freez- ing weather. * * * I must notice here what Parry says relative to the comparative times of the dissolution of the shore-ice and water rushing iu torrents from the laud in these northern regions : " It has been suggested that the floe may be held down by its firm cementation to the shore while the water from the laud above it rushes in a torrent along its upper surface. This, however, is contrary to ex- perience, which shows that long before the streams on the land are sutficient to effect this, the ice next the shore is completely thawed and detached from the beach, and, therefore, at libertj' to float in the natural way." If I understand Parry rightly he means this : that, fr-om his experience, long before the snows on the land of this northern country melt — causing streams, some of which rush in torrents — the ice next the shore completely thaws aud becomes detached from the beach. Jfow, my experience is directly the reverse of this; that is to say, from what I have seen, long before the ice next the shore thaws and becomes detached from the beach, the snows on the land melt, causing streams — indeed, some, rivers — some of these streams and rivers rushing torrent-Uke down the mountain- sides and thence over the ice belting the shore, and over the ice covering the waters of many bays, coves, and inlets. At the present time, wherever I look, the land is almost completely denuded of snow, and has been so for weeks, while the shores of the mainland and of the islands are in many places still belted with the " ice-foot," as Dr. Kane termed the ice next the land. UntU now, Eepulse Bay has been covered over, mostly with its fixed ice of last winter's formation, and this while many of the rushing torrents have long since dried up, their source — the melting snows — having disapijeared. Wherever these streams rim for a considerable time over the fixed floes, they cut their way — 198 Rocks and Debris on the Ice. a canal — completely tlirough. Often in passing over the ice have I been checked in my course from meeting these winding, river-like channels in the ice, being un- able to leap them, and obliged to make to the mainland that I might renew my course again. It is truly a wonder to me that Parry's experience was such as he has recorded. From what I have just written, no one will suppose that I wish to make torrents and more quiet streams from the land the means by which stones, sand, and shells, and weeds get upon or into the ice-floe, though I may say that occasionally such is the fact. c HAPTER A SECOND WINTER LIFE— PREPARATIONS FOR THE FIRST SLEDGE JOURNEY TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND. SEPTEMBER, 11165, TO APRIL, ia66. CHAPTEE VII. Plans for a sledge journey in the spring — Separation from the Innuits — Ebierbing, TOO-KOO-LI-TOO, AND AR-MOU'S FABIILY REJIAIN WITH HaLL — HlS INTEREST IN TILE DEER- HUNTS — Danger to life experienced — An aurora described by Hall as seen from HIS BED on the ROCKS — LARGE NUMBER OF DEER SLAIN — HaLL'S REINDEER DEPOSITS — Severe gale — Too-koo-li-too's remembrance of the Brooklyn ladies wishing her TO dress like civilized people — Exposures on visiting the deposits — Failure to catch salmon— Hall's daily subsistence — He prepares skin garments — Eemoval to Kow-yarn — News of the drowning of Ar-too-a — Feasts and amusements at Now- YARN — Visit to Oo-gla-ri-your Island — Troubles with the natives — Eeconcilia- TION and encouragements — TEMPERATURE OF THE WINTER MONTHS — FREQUENT AU- RORAS — EeADINESS for a FORWARD MOVE TO KiNG WlLLIASl'S LaND. The experience of the first Arctic year has been detailed, and its journals have given an insight into the daily life to which one was necessarily subjected who looked forward to the accomplishment of a "mission" through assistance furnished by the Eskimos. The details of a second winter life among the same people would not be profitably presented in the cases in which almost identically like experiences were passed through. This chapter, therefore, will ofi"er but the thread of Hall's occupations during this jjeriod, with a recital of such occur- rences as were new to him from his changed location, partial isolation from the larger number of his Innuit friends, and necessar}^ self- dependence for subsistence and for a preparation to renew his advance 201 202 Hall Hunting the Deer. [September, ises. toward King William's Land. His plans for the next year involved the securing of the continued friendship of the Innuits, and the stor- ing of sufficient provisions for a long sledge journey, as well as for maintaining life through the approaching winter. The larger part of the tribe now located themselves in places at some distance from him ; at first, going off to the lakes above North Pole River to hunt, and, after their return, living nearly all the rest of the season at the point named on the map (page 211) as Now-yarn PI arbor. Between this and Fort Hope visits were at times exchanged, and, during the two mid-winter months Hall lived with the natives at Now-yarn. Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, from the first, remained close b}' him, and for the sake of the latter who expected to give birth to a child, Ar-mou's family by the consent of the chief, Ou-e-la, re- mained for some time at Fort Hope. For the same reason, chiefly. Hall himself did not accompany the party to the lakes. He soon became deeply interested in the deer-hunts, making himself a good marksman, and being rewarded with a large success. During the month of September, and until the migrations of the deer ceased in the month following, his notes are full of wearisome pursuits, made almost daily over the rough hills and the hummocks of tlu; sea-ice The record of one of these hunts is this : Leaving his hut with Ebierbing at 8 a. m. of September 10, at midday, when three miles nortli of their home, they first saw a band of seventeen deer one (»f which Hall succeeded in killing. Making a deposit of this, and traveling two miles further, they sighted two others which were rest- ing on the plain The hunters cautiousl}' concealed themselves behind tlie rocks, and wlien the animals had come near to them, brows- Nepicinbei-, 1865.1 Closc SliooUng. 203 ing-, Ebierbing crept across the plain, making it impossible for the deer to cross in front of a little lake near by without exposing them- selves to his clear aim. The hunters, however, found themselves in the embarrassing position that neither one could fire without endangering the life of the other. Just as Hall had taken aim, he remembered Ebierbing, dropped his rifle, and hid himself behind the rocks at the moment when Ebierbing's ball which had passed through the first deer, whizzed close to his head. Seeing, however, that his com- panion had now, in turn, liid himself, he shot the second deer, giv- ing Ebierbing the pleasure of a possible experience like his own. Each felt that he had made a narrow escape. Securing three more from the next herd, they skinned their prizes, and, as the sun was now setting, determined to remain and cache them the next day. For their sleeping-place they built a wall of stones on the windward side of a bed of moss on which, after smoking, chatting, and supping on raw venison, they fell comfortably asleep, each having one of the deer-skins for his bed, another for his j)illow, and a third for his coverlid. They awoke to find their cover- ings hard frozen, ice to the thickness of three-eighths of an inch having formed during the night on the pools of water near them ; but at an early hour they made their caches of the deer, loaded the packs of skins upon their backs, and continued the hunt throughout a second day, securing, however, but one more animal. Neither the fatigue of the journey nor the excitement through which Hall had passed prevented him from writing while on his rough bed: * The evening glorious, the clear sky, the moon, the stars! and now, at 9"^., the aurora grandly playing its fantastic tricks. Was ever man more blest with an 204 An Aurora Noted from a Hard Bed. [September, ises. opportunity for observing some of Nature's grand order of creation than I to-night, here on my back, with the heavens stretched out and moving, panorama-like, be- fore me? O, the wondrous workings of the aurora ! Their mysteries seem i)ast finding out. Tlie more I see them, the less I know. The display to-night most gorgeous. At first, the low extended arch to the southward — its slow rising — the dancing beams flying to and fro from one end of the arch to the other — the arch multiplied into others in beautiful disorder — the prismatic fringe at the base of the rays. As the now several arches get higher and higher they become more and more lively. Now they shoot up to the zenith, and their motions become too quick for the eye to follow them. Now the upper heavens are tilled with the aurora as though in battle ; sublime and inspiring. I cannot describe the scene ; I can simply behold, and praise God, the author of these glorious works. During the month of September ninety-three deer were deposited, and within the next month and the first week of November fifty more were secured ; in the latter part of September they were frequently seen in large numbers, and Hall estimated that as many as a thousand passed in one day. The Innuits at the lakes, who were not equally fortunate, said that the prevalence of the southerly winds had kept the deer lower down, near the seashore. A few were seen by Hall as late as the 27th of January ; these were, at the time, going northward. They did not again appear until the end of March, when the does that were with young had begun their migration. Their rutting season had been in October, during which, frequently, they were more readily captured. The details of labor and exposure to which Hall subjected himself when depositing the carcasses of his slain animals are as interesting as those of the hunt. One record will suffice. It is largely condensed from his notes, throughout the fullness of which no items are found which would tempt one to suspect that the account is one of exagger- ated trials. They bear on their face the simplicity of that truthfulness which it may be hero said, once for all, has been conceded on all sides October, 1865.] Scvcre Exposuves. 205 to have been a marked element in his character, and which his stead- fast companion, Ebierbing, has uniformly claimed for him. On the 20th of October, at 8 a. m., in the midst of a gale with snow and flying drift, the two went out to make deposits of the deer which they had killed the day before. With rifles in hand, they crossed hill and valley to Hall's own favorite deer-pass, where he had been accustomed to watch for the animals behind his stone wall. The first labor was to recover here his double-barreled gun from a deep snow-drift, and this required of both, a laborious shoveling of twenty minutes. Following the ridge of high land from the deer-pass south toward Gibson's Cove, they came upon their five slain animals, the last one they had shot being a big buck. It had been left unskinned, and the legs only were frozen. The skin was taken ofi", and the car- cass disemboweled and cut into the three principal pieces, which were dragged a little way further to a stony spot, where the weight of a ton and a half of rock was piled upon them; the bristling antlers were left projecting above to mark the cache To find rock and stones for covering the other three animals, Hall climbed the highest part of the ridge, where, by heavy pounding, he and Ebierbing secured two and a half tons. When they had dragged two of the deer up this hill, a rest was made for lunch on some of the unfrozen legs and for a smoke; but to light their pipes a match was struck after many trials only, and by their crowding down into a deep snow-bank and bending their bodies and heads over for a roof against the storm. As they sat enjoy- ing their puffing, the sight and the noise around them were such as would have struck ten-or and dismay into the heart of any one inex- perienced in Arctic life. The darkening clouds of sharp, cutting, blinding snow flying on the wings of the gale, the howling of the 206 Hall and Ehierhing again Successful. [October, 1S65. storm, and the cold, frowning, icy rocks, although sheltering them for the moment, were enough, Hall said, to make one exclaim, " None but devils should be doomed to such an unmerciful punishment." On returning to their third deer, they found that the foxes had dragged off the head and nearly cleaned off the meat. The paunches of all three were then buried within a skin in a snow-drift ; to be recovered when the gale ceased The first animal which they had killed and sledded upon a skin some distance further on, was also cached with hard labor. The whole day's work had been in the teeth of gale and drift. Entering the hut, on their return, each seemed to the other a pil- lar of snow, until they had for a long hour pounded and threshed their na- tive dresses with their ar-row-tars. But they brought in with them a good store of food, for Ebierbing had carried on his back, two legs and five slabs of meat, beside much tallow, with e-ver-tu (sinew) for thread. Hall had on his shoulders, with his gun, a substantial saddle of meat. Their stores left outside had been also made "safe in the midst of the storm from ihe jaws of the fox, the wolf, and the ^r^^ equally hungry crow." The gale continued unbroken To':»:' 1 1 i' 1 ' m\ i ^B WW i H m - _1- -■: ^mm — rr-^^- i •T--^^- ^^^^^jsHlkB fSffL.. .-g rFS=Wi=i^=F-^ 2'«,.r«isr;;ii5. ivovciiiber, 1863.] Refractiofi. 207 record. Too-koo-li-too expressed a wish that the lady who told her at the Brooklyn fan- in New York that Innuits ought to dress like ladies in the States, could herself take a minute's walk only at this time over the hill near by, when she would be very glad to change her fine hat and hoop-skirts for any one of an Innuit's rough dresses. The journals of November 29 and 30 have interesting notes of refraction and of a parhelion. The 29th was a gloriously fine day, although rather cold, the mean of four observations of Hall's ther- mometer No. 5 being 65°. 4 below freezing-point. From midday till evening the sky was cloudless and the air calm. At lO''- 12™- 4P'^'^' mean time of Fort Hope, the lower limb of the sun was half a degree above the sea-horizon. The place of Hall's observation was on the crest of the hill back of his igloo, directly opposite Beacon Hill ; the igloo and the hill being on opposite sides of the small stream known as North Pole River. At sunrise and for a half hour later, the refraction south and east was very great ; for Southampton Island loomed up from ten to thirty minutes of arc above the sea-horizon. The island is never visible from the place of observation named, except by refraction ; and Hall had frequently looked in vain for it from elevated points in the neigh- borhood. Cape Frigid, the most northerly point of Southampton, lies in about lat. 66° N., long. 85° 25' W., by Parry's chart ; and by the same chart, the junction of the river with the headwaters of Gibson's Cove is in lat. 66° 32' N., long. 86° 50' W., the last of which positions, however. Hall believed, involves an error in the chart, of seven miles. The cape was forty-seven geographical miles distant, but the refraction was so great that Hall saw not only that point, but the coast on both 208 A Mock-Sun. rivoTcmbcr, ises. sides of the island far down southward. Nearly the whole entrance to Repulse Bay from Beach Point easterly, had land looming- up above the sea-horizon in a thousand fantastic and constantly-changing- forms. Before and at sunrise a zone of about five degrees in Avidth from the horizon up was of resplendent colors, extending completely around the heavens ; that half of the circle which was opposite the sun being the more gorgeous. On the going down of the sun the glow- ing zone was again in view. Such a display is not unusual in fine weather during the Arctic winter. At 11 a. m. of the 30th, he was on the top of Oven Hill, viewing the sun and a splendid parhelion 22^ degrees east of it. On account of the cloudiness of the heavens, there was no corresponding parhelion visi- ble on the opposite or west side of the sun. In fifteen minutes after the time given above, the sun became completely obscured by clouds ; but the parhelion continued shining almost as brightly as though it were the great luminary itself. Thinking to improve the occasion in determining the illusion to be a complete one, he hastened down to the igloo, called Ebierbing and Ar-mou, and requested them to point out to him where the sun was. They both pointed directly to the parhe- lion with the utmost confidence that it was the true sun ; their very looks at him bespoke the unmistakable sentiment, "Any man that is not blind can see that tJiere is the sun!" Hall smiled, and then his " good native friends " scanned to the right and left of what they really thought to be the sun ; but their assurance remained the same. He then pointed 22^ degrees to the west of the phenomenon and told them that in that direction was the sun. "At this time it wanted only fifteen minutes of being apparent noon, when, of course, the sun would be due south of them. A moment's reflection on the part of Ebierbing and December, 1865.1 Food With Difficulty Obtained from the Deposits. 209 Ar-mou then satisfied them that it was only a mock-sun they had beheld." Visits to the deposits like those made during the autumn were re- peated through the winter as often as the necessities for food required. On the 2d of December, Hall started up North Pole River with two dogs for a team and a deer-skin for a sledge. He found half a saddle eaten by foxes, or perhaps by some smaller animal, which, from the Innuits' description, he thought must be the weasel. This deposit he had made on ground six feet above the river-level ; but a six-day gale and storm had formed anchor-ice on the boulders in the river's bed, bringing the waters up from their passage under the ice to overflow it a long way down the estuary before reaching the sea. The deposits made on the banks were therefore almost entirely lost. When he had attempted, a few days before, to open this cache by the use of sharp stones as wedges and of boulders for his hammers, he had succeeded only in mak- ing a few crevices, but through these the depredations had now been made. On this visit he fastened his dogs by their draught-lines to the rocks; but they no sooner saw the chips of the frozen meat flying right and left from the blows of a dull ax, than they began a yelping, bark- ing, and springing to be loosened, which continued through the two hours he was at work. " With much patience exercised in those hours of profuse perspiration," he secured the larger part of the meat, and then unfastened his dogs to revel on the scattered morsels and gnaw at the mass mixed with the ice and stones. The larger frag- ments and chips, placed on the deer-skin sledge out of their reach, were drawn back to the igloo. On a second journey for a like object, made in the month follow- ing, he set out with Nu-ker-zlwo from Now-yam before daylight, the S. Ex. 27 14 210 No Bites hij the Salmon. uamiarT, isee. tnoon a few days past full, and the temperature, 46° below zero. They expected to remain out thi-ough the following night, yet took no addi- tions to their winter traveling- dress. A snow-knife was carried to cut out their igloo. The bracing air incited the dogs to their full speed, so that after crossing the sea-ice and ascending a small ravine on the surface of a rivulet leading up from a fiord of the bay, by sunrise they were twelve miles from the igloos and near the deposit. The land in the neighborhood was extremely low; that lying far to the north and east was high — called King-naw by Nu-Tier-zlioo. A fresh breeze added new stimulus to a work of profuse perspiration despite the intensity of the cold; but before dark they had returned home, dragging with them on their sled four heavy packages of venison-saddles sewed up in deer-skins. It had been necessary to re-ice the runners of the sled with moss. Their breakfast of raw frozen meat had been eaten under the protection of the snow-pillars supporting two kg-aks. No subsistence but the deer-meat was found during this season, excepting occasionally a few salmon, or as many as a dozen partridges. Hall attempted to catch salmon in a lake three miles east of Beacon Hill, where he baited many hooks in holes through the fourteen-inch ice. Dr. Rae, in 1853-'54, had found this lake well filled, but Hall did not get a bite. The story of the natives was that no fish had been caught in this lake since Rae lost his net in it. Presents were more than once brought in of salmon from 30 to 36 inches in length, which were either eaten raw or parboiled in fresh water, making, when fat, a rich soup The provisions which had been brought to Fort Hope were spar- ingly used The main dependence was upon venison, which was usually taken raw, with tood-noo or seal-blubber (often old and rancid) January, 1866.] Hard and Poor Fare. 211 for butter. A favorite dish with both Hall and the Innuits was sea- bread soaked in ice-water sweetened with molasses ; with this he often treated his visitors. At times his storehouse was filled with meat, and a season of feasting ensued ; often, however, through failure in recovering deposits, or through caprice in the Innuits, he was placed on short rations. One extract from the record of January 2 1 will show his condition at such times: I arise usually between seven and eight in the morning, and then smoke a little, which for a time makes me feel less hungry. After a while I cut a few chips from whatever little choice block of venison I may happen to have, and eat the same raw and hard frozen. As eating venison alone is dry work unless one has tood-noo, I eat seal-blubber, which is old, of strong odor, and of strong-old-cheese taste. About 4 ounces of venison and 1 ounce of blubber make my breakfast. Had I abundance of the former, I should eat nearer 4 pounds than 4 ounces, for it must be remembered that it takes a great deal of the venison of this country to supply one's appetite and necessities in the winter. In the neighborhood of noon (really there is no particular time of one's taking his meals when living as the Innuits do), I dine on what would be called old, stinking, nauseating whale-skin; but to a hungry soul every bitter thing is sweet, and I, indeed, find it so. Some of the effects on eating the first few times of this muk-tuJc (whale-skin) are severe griping pains in the stomach and bowels, followed by copious diarrhea. Nearly every Innuit, great and small, in the village, as weU as myself, has suffered thus by eating this whale-skin; there were seven patients on my hands one day last week suffering with the above-named complaints. For my lunch, or supper, I pick out the fatty substance of a whale-fin, and eat with it a little more of my took-too meat, about the same amount as for breakfast, topping off with delicate slices of raw whale- beef, or of the aforesaid whale-skin, and go to bed hungry; but as soon as asleep I dream of friends and better times coming. From the scarcity of fuel, little cooking could be done. But the customs of the Innuits now required Too-koo-li-too in her peculiar condition to eat nothing but cooked meat, and an additional drain was made upon their small store of fuel in drying skins for their clothing. Tlie seal-oil, which had been so industriously collected, had suffered 212 The Living at Fort Hope. (janaary, isoc. from the depredations of the bears and the wolves, and the heather which had been gathered, was mainly used, toward spring, in browning a supply of coifee for use on the proposed sledge journey. Coffee was served only when Hall wished specially to please his visitors. A corn-meal pudding was not relished, because of his long-continued use of raw meat. "A reindeer-head, with a complement of tood-noo and the paunch-contents stewed in water and reindeer-blood, was a rare and savory dish " Oil was sipped, and tallow and marrow in consider- able quantity eaten every day with the raw frozen venison. He was thus enabled to bear much cold without suffering; and he says, with a dry humor, that sometimes while feasting on tood-noo, he was appre- hensive of a like fate with the Inimit who, after drinking a large quan- tity of water with his melted tood-noo, died from the formation of a huge tallow candle in his stomach. So much for often sipping train-oil and eating whale and seal blubber; all of which three articles are to Innuits and myself what butter is to those in civilized lands. Besides, I frequently feast on tallow candles, which word I use as a fig- ure for pure deer's tallow ; but really I have made excellent dip-candles of tood- noo, and, not having use for them, have eaten them with the same good relish as though the tallow was not made into candles. The water-supply at Fort Hope was obtained from North Pole River, through a hole chiseled in the ice about six inches in diameter. From the surface of the ice to the water was three feet. When snow filled this hole, new ice formed daily to the depth of three inches; at other times, six inches of ice were removed before water could be obtained. On one occasion, when the temperature had fallen 20°, Hall was surprised to find but half an inch of ice under the snow. On the same day the heather-fuel was with difiiculty ignited, although the circumstances were the same as at other times ; he did not under- janaarr, 1866.J Hull and Ehierhifig Preparing Winter Garments. 213 stand either of these phenomena. His Innuit friends complained that in times of severe cold their fire-lamps were very dull. According to an early-formed purpose, he and Ebierbing had begun in November to prepare enough deer-skins for their full winter raiment. This work comprised the different operations of drying, scraping, re-drying, and re-scraping described in Chapter IV. Too- koo-li-too, as a young mother, could not work on these. Ar-mou and his wife had already prepared their furs. Hall found himself a green hand in even the first of these operations, which gave him four times the work of an Innuit. It took two skins to make him a single koo- lee-tang, or native coat or frock. For a double one for winter use four were used. To get sufficient warmth to dry the skins, they were hung around the "Conjurer," or small cook-stove, in the "snow kitchen"; and, as the heather could not be spared for the drying only, a quantit}^ of coffee was browned at the same time. Ebierbing was able to use his needle so deftly that he made himself a pair of mit- tens of the skin from two deer-legs. deer-skln glovks. Hall's clothing was now almost exclusively of furs. By the mid- dle of December he had doffed his undershirt, and in Februar}', his drawers ; and for the rest of the season he dressed wholly like his Innuit companions. His experience as to the influence of imagina- tion upon his sensibility to cold is noted in the fact that, on several occasions, when the Eskimos repeatedly expressed their surprise that he did not protect himself while making his observations outside of his igloo, he seemed unconscious of the increased cold ; he had been ^ 214 Removal to Now-yarn. (jmnnary, isee. regarding his thermometer only, which, because of an air-bubble in the tube, did not indicate the true lower temperature of 20°. Having always taken great care of his Ai'ctic library, even in his removals from place to place, he again devoted his spare hours to study. Finding his books, in the early part of the season, in great danger of being injured by the dampness, he attempted by himself to build for them a new igloo ; but, while cutting the blocks a short dis- tance off, Ar-mou quickly cut out others from the spot on which the igloo was to be built, and surprised him on his return by presenting him with a completed dome. Not long after, Hall succeeded in build- ing a cook-igloo, when Ar-mou and Ebierbing, skilled as they were in such work, showed their surprise that a kob-lu-na had built it so well; saying that they would never feel alarmed about him if caught out alone in the storms, for he could easily protect himself. The removal to Now-yarn had taken place on the 1st of Decem- ber, when Hall received a visit from Nu-Jcer-^hoo, Ou-e-la, and his half- brother, Oong-oo-choo, from their settlement at that place, about sixteen miles to the eastward. He was busy at his skin-dressing when Ou-e-la suddenly appeared, pushing in before him into the igloo a present of whale-blubber and muk-tuk. The approach of the party had not been noticed because of the thickness of the weather. Cordial greetings were followed by feasting through the evening, and after the igloo was sealed, a lengthy conference was held, as the result of which it was determined that Hall, with Ebierbing, Too-koo-li-too, and Ar-mou and his family, should spend the rest of the winter at Now-yarn. The larger part of the stores being deposited amid the rocks, and Hall having made two trips to Rae's oven in which he now stored his medicine-chests and smaller articles, the move was begun under bright jannarr. 1866.1 Death of Ar-too-tt. 215 moonlight, at 3 a. m. of the 5th. Twenty dogs drew out of the igloos very heavy loads of venison from the unconsumed stores. The larger part, however, was re-cached, while a number of fine deer-skins were necessarily abandoned. The two women, with their babes on their backs, led the way, a seat on top of one of the sleds being soon found for Too-koo-li-too, who had been sick. Hall and Ou-e-la walked by the first sled, Ebierbing and Nu-ker-zlioo by the second, and Ar-mou and Oong-oo-choo by the third. But the loads were too heavy for them to finish the rough journey to Now-yarn before night ; the pile from one sled, therefore, was cached, and the sled put up on end, and wal- rus-lines hung from its peak to swing in the wind and frighten the bear and the wolf from the cache. The journey was finished at 3 p. m. At Now-yarn the new-comers were cordially received with the usual feast of venison and tood-noo, and two new igloos wei'e quickly built. Hall found the widows of Ar-too-a and Sho-she-ark-nook, and their mother in deep mourning, the long, coarse, raven hair of Ar- too-a's widow completely hiding her face, neck, and shoulders. News of the death of Ar-too-a had been brought to Hall by Nu-ker-zhoo and Oong-oo-cJioo some weeks before. Ar-too-a had gone out in his ki-a (or one-man boat) alone. This was contrary to Innuit custom, but he was known as a bold, venturesome spirit who never quailed to attack the bear with a single spear, or to hunt the fierce walrus far out on the ice ; his death had been more than once predicted. At the time it happened, one of the Innuit women on the shore heard a cry of distress, and on her giving the alarm, two ki-as quickly pushed out into the lake. They found his boat and his implements, except one spear, but his body had sunk. It was supposed that while he was spearing one of a band of deer crossing the lake, some huge buck 216 The Ki-as of Repulse Bay. f February, 1866. proved ugly, and in the encounter kicked up his heels, striking the boat, which was at once upset. Hall notes the difference between the ki-as of this country and those of Greenland, Frobisher Bay, and Hudson's Strait : The M-as here are of far less weight than those of Greenland — not so long or so wide. Indeed, they are not more than 25 pounds weight, while those on the west side of Davis's Strait ofttimes exceed 100 pounds. A Greenlander, or any Innuit anywhere from Hudson's Strait up to Northumberland Inlet, on getting into one of the Mas of this country would capsize as quickly as a white man in theirs. Ebierbing at first could do nothing in them but roU over, M-a and all. To get properly into one of these boats, an Innuit has to work and wiggle his body a long time. I cannot imagine how Ar-too-a managed, on getting caj)- sized, to get his body out of his M-a, so tight was he squeezed in when in it. KEPULSK BAY Kl-A. Elsewhere, he notes his surprise on learning that the natives com- })lained that he had kept Ar-mou with him. They bitterly felt the loss of their an-ge-ko, and said that if Ar-mou had gone up with Ar-too-a to the lake he might have been at hand to save him. Old Ook-har-Ioo, mother-like, held on to a hope that she would yet look upon her son. The midwinter months, to the 8th of Feb- ruary, were passed comfortably with the natives at or near Now-yarn. The stock of provisions was ample, and hunting unnecessary as well as impracticable ; the time was, therefore, spent mostly within the if/loos, in the usual amusements and feasting the character of which has already been described. The number of souls in the village, including women and KY-AK ORNAMENT. February, 1866.1 Population of Noiv-yarn. 217 children, was forty-three. This number Ou-e-Ia counted up by keep- ing open with his finger for Hall the same number of leaves in one of his little volumes — the Book of Psalms. The Eskimos, as is well known, can generally count as far as ten, but after that, they only say, am-a-su-it or am-a-su-ad-lu (many, a very great many). DEATH ()!>' AR-TOO-A. Almost every day the whole population came together for the feasts. At times, Hall showed his continued good-will bv giving 218 Amusements. [February, 1866. special entertainments, at which he waited himself on the younger children, after feasting the adults. Free smoking assisted the good humor, when tobacco, as well as other articles, including desiccated vegetables, were drawn from the stores taken out with him from the United States. To leave no exception from his invitations, he urged old mother Ook-bar-loo to release Too-koo-li-too from the iron custom which was working against her at the time. The favor was granted, but Too-koo-li-too, from superstitious fear, declined to avail herself of the dispensation. Her babe, born September 16, was, in her judgment, yet too young. Amusements necessarily formed a large part of the occupations of the village. Wrestling and otlier gymnastic exercises were not only much relished, but instinctively practiced with frequency, to maintain that muscular jjower of which the race were in conscious need for their success and personal safety in the hunt and in severe exposures. IXNL'IT TKJIIT-UOI' The tight-ropo was in use, stretched witliin the i(jloo by thongs of wal- rus-hide, wliich, with some skill, were securely fastened on tlie outside of the roof Games of checkers and dominoes were often interrupted February, 1866. New Year's Day. 219 by long yarn-spinning, chatting, and smoking. The dance and the masquerade ball were not infrequent. The first month of the new year had closed with a celebration of a unique character. Hall had announced to them the opening of the year by passing round through the connected snow-houses and shout- ing its coming with so loud a voice and at such an hour as even to frighten the people. They seemed to have reciprocated his atten- tions with interest. The whole day was busily spent in preparing for the masquerade and the dance; and when the ball opened, the most grotesque costumes imaginable provoked loud and continued laughter INNUIT HEAD-ORNAMENT— SEAL-TEETH ; BEADS FKOM DR. RAE. from all the company; for the garments had been hastily patched up from all the second-hand articles of clothing, such as pants, shirts, drawers, remnants, and pieces of cloth, calicoes, and stuff which had been picked up at times from the whalers; and these were put on by men, women, and children, even the smallest, with a studied care to make themselves ridiculous. The masks were of reindeer-skin. The performance came off in the triplet igloo of ^^Nu-ker-zhoo, Ar-goom-oo- too-lik, See-gar & Co.," where dancing to a late hour was accompanied by the key-low-tik, with monotonous singing, and a cheerful, tuneless 220 Miniature Sledges. [Prbrnary, 18«4t. accordeon. Dancing in couples, dancing altogether, and dancing singly, filled up the hours. IV n GROUND-PLAN OF THE FEASTING-IGLOO — SCALF,, i\f" = 12". I. Passage-way, about 6 feet high. II. Vestibule, 9 feet high. III. Igloo — floor to dome, 9 feet 3 inches; height of bed-platform, 2 feet 9 inches. IV. Igloo — floor to dome, 9 feet 6 inches; height of bed-platform, 3 feet. V. Igloo — floor to dome, 9 feet 5 inches; height of bed- platform, 2 feet 7 inches. B. Bed-platform; F. Floor; L. Lamp. At the close of other entertainments when the storm did not sliut them in-doors as on the occasion of Hall's feasting them on Christmas night, the boys harnessed up a team of little dogs and gave the youngest children a good sledge-ride on the ice of Repulse Bay. For such rides, miniature teams of puppies but two months old were some- times driven with much skill by the young children; the puppies being harnessed by the line only, and the young drivers using the long whip February, 1866.] Trip to Oo-gla-ri-your Island. 221 just as the men do. Their sleds are about two feet in length. The village, outside the igloos^ was illuminated with '^nanny-roons,^'' or lan- terns, some of ice, others of snow. Hall says, about these: "Eeally there is no occasion for any one to bring glass windows or glassware into this country, for King Cold gives us the material during nine months of the year. These lanterns are fine specimens of the handi- work of the race." On the 3d of February, Hall and Nu-ker-zhoo made a very rough journey back to Oo-gla-ri-your Island, to recover a favorite artificial horizon, first used on the expedition of 1860 to 1862. The instrument was readily found by Nu-her-zhoo on the surface of the snow, but in a damaged state ; the woodwork eaten by foxes and the mercury wholly lost. The two were back at Now-yarn at the close of the second day, having passed one night in an igloo on the ice. On this trip of sixty miles they were more than once jerked from the flying sledge "like stones from a sling." On the island a native sledge was found, made ESKIMO SLEDGE. \ entirely of the jaw-bone of a whale. It was very heavy. The run- ners were 12 feet long, 10 inches deep, and 1| inches thick, and were 222 Now-yarn Harbor and the Cliff. IFobruarjr, 1866. £hod with the same bone; the cross-bars measured 20 inches. Ou-e-la said that it belonged to the father of the I-vit-cJiuck already named. Hall now spent several days in the busy work of surveying Now- yarn harbor and its vicinity, making the sketch of which the cut below is a fac-simile. Lakelet. Wth Unct A cli£F on the border of a neighboring inlet much interested him by the Innuit tradition with which it was connected. Ou-e-Ms story was that, years before, two little girls while playing about this cliflF, with infants in hoods on their backs, had gone into an opening between the rocks, which closed upon them before escape was possible. All attempts for rescue were unsuccessful, and the poor children, to whom for a time bread and water were passed, perished in the cliff. On the 8th, Hall found himself back at his tenting-ground at the twenty-sixth encampment, near Dr. Rae's "Forlorn Hope" — Fort Hope. Febraarr, 1866.) Visit to Fort Hope. 223 '-'* ft. wide. 30 ft. Jou^- '^^^^^!^i'->^^ THE RENT CUFF. On setting out in the morning, all Now-yarn had turned out to bid him " ter-hou-ee-tie^ — a hearty good-bye. He left the kindly advice with Ou-e-la to be sure to send for him if any of the people were sick. With his own Eskimos, and Ar- mou and Mam-mark, he made the joiu*- ney by four o'clock in the afternoon, the sledges being heavily loaded, and he himself preferring to pace the whole distance, carefully counting every fourth step. As soon after their ar- rival as new igloos were built, refresh- ments were served up, including a lit- tle brandy of such proof that it remained unfrozen at 50^ below zero, eschewed the favorite muk-tuJc, the brandy, and the smoking. Mam- mark having recently lost her wing-er (husband), and Too-koo-li-too's child being less than a year old. When Hall took his brandy, even after breathing for some time upon the flask, he was burned from mouth to stomach as by a stream of fire-coals ; — impressing him ever after with the necessity of being as wise in first taking the frost out of the liquid as he was in taking it out of the nose of the flask. The next day, having occasion to visit Fort Hope, he was struck with its exposed position, and his notes express an admiration of Dr. Rae's ability as the leader of an expedition, for having wintered his party of 1846 within its gloomy mud and stone walls without the loss of a man. Mam-mark and others now spoke of their friends hav- ing seen Dr. Rae at Pelly Bay, as well as at Fort Hope. They knew Oo-lig-huck, Rae's guide, under the name Mar-ko, and among other The fair sex of the company 224 Difficulties with the Innuits. [March, ism. things which they related of this man, was the story that he became much alarmed by the accounts from the Iwillik people of the fierce and deceitful Neitchille tribe, and for this reason he had tried to desert Rae, but without success. During the rest of the month of February and throughout March, Hall was quite willing to have for his companions the few only who had returned with him from Now-yarn. He needed rest from the fre- quency of visitations to his igloo, and quiet for maturing his plans for the spring sledge journey ; but especially, relief from the misunder- standings and alienations occurring not infrequently at the village. It is easy to see that any estrangement from those on whom he as the only white man was dependent, and at times helplessly so, must have caused him much disquiet, beyond even the connection of this with the success of his plans. Some personal misunderstandings with Ou-e-la (the chief) and with Ar-mou, and others, had more than once occurred ; and at one time he seems to have had good reason to believe that his life was in danger. But his control over the people continued to be strangely successful, and it so remained up to the close of the expedition. The chief means of this success is readily to be inferred from the course of the narrative up to this date. From the time of his first meeting with the Innuits he had reciprocated the cordiality of their simple off'erings, and had subjected himself to a conformity with their strange customs; he had ministered to their necessities in sickness, supplying both food and fuel ; and had held out to them just expecta- tions of further assistance from the whalers, and from his friends in the United States. His chief dependence for the needed control over them was in his supply of tobacco, often freely given as a present, but as a SKETCH OF COAST LINES FllOM FT. CHFRClllLL TO l.ANCASTEIl SOUND Bv Ai'-niou in lUliti. ay March, 1886.] Conttol of the Innuits. 225 rule, dealt out as rations in exchange for provisions. When for two days he held out in a refusal to serve out this to Ar-mou (the Wolf), a personal contest was nearly brought on. " The savage," after several angry conferences with his fellows, again and again demanded the coveted weed; but even when he approached Hall to lay hold on him, he received the firm answer, ^'■Ar-moii keeps his muk-tuk, Hall keeps his tobacco." This self-control seems to have had as much to do with closing the affair amicably, as any assistance that Ebierbing and Too- koo-li-too could render. Other alienations had now shown themselves by the separa- tion from him of the rest of the Innuits, and by their withhold- ing from him their old gifts and even some of his own supplies, which might have been brought when he was known to be in need, from the whale cached in August ; to say nothing of their forgetful- ness to keep for him his accustomed place at the feasts. It is cer- tainly creditable to Hall that he could ex:ercise such self-control, and make full allowance for the circumstances in which he was placed, and in which he steadfastly purposed to abide. Some things he knew that he must probably misunderstand. His own determined purpose he could not. In despite of these adverse circumstances, he had not been without renewed encouragements. The leading men of the tribe had come and talked with him about his journey before he went over to Now-yarn, and when good humor prevailed there, had repeatedly entered into his plans, and committed themselves and their people to his assistance Ar-mou completed for him a chart of the waters and lands he had voyaged and traveled over in his lifetime. "It embraced a section of country from Pond's Bay (say in lat. 73° N., long. 76° W.) to Fort Churchill (lat. 58° 44' N., long. 94° 14' W.) ; the distance between the two places in a direct line being 966 nauti- S. Ex. 27 15 226 Ready to Move. [March, isee. cal miles (by middle latitude sailing* 965.8 ; by Mercator, 959.8)." The coast which this native delineated, and with most of which he was well acquainted, exceeded six times this distance. With all the indentations of the coast from Ig-loo-lik to Repulse Bay, and thence to Fort Churchill, he still was familiar, except the further or most westerly extent of Chesterfield Inlet. He had been on Southampton Island twice ; the first time drifting there on the ice while walrusing in the winter. From his map and from others drawn by natives, par- ticularly from the sketch of Lyon's Inlet, to be found in a later part of this Narrative, Hall received valuable assistance on his subsequent journeys. The occupations of the quiet stay at Fort Hope had included the selecting and preparing the necessary provisions and stores, and putting them up in convenient packages encased in strong bags of India-rubbei* cloth ; such as could not be carried away being either cached or cov- ered over in the Sylvia, which was secured from exposure. For Hall's personal comfort, Mam-mark made him a pair of kod-lins, or breeches, from the Siberian squirrel-furs presented to him the preceding season by his friend Captain Kilmer. On the 30th of March, I-vi-tuk came merrily down to Fort Hope, with all the dogs belonging to See-gar and Ar-goo-moo-too-lik, to assist Hall on his proposed journey north. These teams, with some dogs which had been left with him by his friend Ou-e-la, were the best prac- tical assurances of good feeling renewed with his old friends. During the winter he had almost despaired of securing a team, and his own stock consisted of but " two female dogs, equal to one good dog, and two puppies, equal to a quarter of a good dog." He had been unable to obtain others at a lower price than a double-barreled gun for each. march, 1866.] Beadj/ foT King Williamh Land. 227 I-vi-tuJc's coming enabled him to anticipate the day for the move toward Neitchille. Now-yarn had been abandoned by the scattering of the people to hunt and fish ; Ou-e-la, for this object, was already upon the lakes. Hall was ready to leave all the people in full good humor. He presented them with venison, and gave to the men letters to the expected whalers, in which he asked that such reasonable requests as might be made for ammunition and provisions should be granted ; the compensation for these he expected would be made to the whalers by his two chief friends in the United States. He had now a goodly party ready for the forward move, having only the regret that the women and children must accompany them. It may be questioned, however, whether his efforts to prevent this had been wise ; nor did the sequel show that the women were really an incumbrance. The METEOROLOGICAL NOTES kept in the winter quarters are of interest. The changing temperatures experienced during this second winter of seven months will be appreciated by the following quotations from some specific dates within that period : The first snow of the season fell September 9 ; an inch only in depth ; it assisted the hunters in tracking deer. Ice formed on the bay and river for the first time on the 12th of the month following. The canvas tents becomiug un- comfortable, kom-tnongs protected the party until they found enough snow on the 29th to build their igloos, and were driven into them by the sudden occurrence of severe storms. The snow-drift of this date prompted Hall to say : I defy any man to make true observations of the number of inches of snow that falls on an average during the winter in the Arctic Regions. Drift and 228 Meteorological Notes Buring the Winter. falling snow are all intermingled, and both are swept along over the earth at a speed that, sometimes I think, should take them round the great globe in forty minutes. Ofttimes the shrewdest natives cannot tell whether it is simply drift flying or both falling snow and drift. The weather at times during November was so warm that the roofs of the igloos needed rebuilding. Repeated applications of new blocks were made to the places from which the melted snow was dripping. The 22d of January, 1866, was a hurricane day. Within the igloos buried deep under the drift, the howling of the storm was heard through- out the night. The women, rising first as usual, cleared the passage- way, and came back from its mouth to tell of the tempest. At nine o'clock Hall attempted to go outside to make his observations, but as he stepped beyond the wind-proof wall of snow-blocks which shielded the entrance-way to the tunnel, he was instantly knocked heels over head. On raising his head, for one instant he saw the snow flying; the next, he was blinded; but by little and little he worked himself, directly in the eye of the hurricane, till he struck on what he knew to be one of the snow-walls of the tunnel. He says that ''the whole world around seemed one mighty snow-drift, and if he had any conscious- ness at all, it was that he felt as though he were in chaos. Heaven had his first thanks, and the Iimuit who built that snow-wall his second." On the 10th of February a hurricane prevailed all day, charged with a temperature of — 40°. At one time, one of the dogs was found entirely buried under the drift, his line being too short to let him keep upon the surface. When released he was a happy dog ; even before eating, " brisk as a cricket." AHrora.. 256. ) tACterwanI doujitcd by Hall to llic Sniiflisoniaii Institution, and in IHTC placed for llio United StaU's Naval ObHorvatory in their Aretic exhibit in th«! Government building at the Cen- tennial ICxhjIiition, I'liiladelphia. April, 1S66. Discouraging News. 251) killed to get his wife ; that some of the Pelly Bay natives who were without wives, and who were being aided by the friends in tlieir attempts to steal wives from their husbands, would certainly carry off Mam-mark ; and that he himself was leaving his own country for Ke- pulse Bay through fear especially of the See-nee-mee-utes. He added that he had given this information ■ chiefly because of his friendsliip in past times for the parents of Ou-e-la, Nu-ker-^hoo, and others, and his promise to keep a good look out for any of tlieir children, if he should ever find them anywhere near the See-nee-me-utes. Three men of Kok-lee-arng-nun's party, one by one confirmed all that their chief had said of the bad state of afi^airs among the natives northward silver fokk and spoons (franklin relics'). and westward, and added that since a recent fight about a deposit, in which the See-nee-mee-utes had lost two men by the Neit-tee-liks, they were burning to wreak vengeance on somebody. Two of these Pelly Bay men told of their own visit, two years before, to Ki-ki-tung (King William's Land), on which they liad remained a short time. They pointed out on Rae's chart exactly the course they took in going and returning direct from the upper part of Pelly Bay overland to Spence Bay, and thence across the ice to Ki-ki- tung, passing the south point of Matty Island, and thence northwest ; — for sealing. When Hall questioned these two men as to any ships 260 The Pelly Bay Natives Unfriendly. fAprii, iseo. having been seen on the north or west of Ki-ki-tung, they pointed again on Rae's chart to Cape Victoria, and said that, a few years before, many Innuits had seen a ship near there from which koh-lu-nas and sledges had come down from the south. This information was again interesting, but its communication was soon followed by some acts of the new-comers themselves toward Hall's people, which not only decided but hastened his setting out on the return for Repulse Bay.^ They seemed to have easily intimi- dated Ebierbing, Nu-her-zhoo, and others; getting from them some of their best dogs, weapons, and tools, and, a day or two after, inviting them to plays — boxing, wrestling, and knife-testing — an invitation from which Hall dissuaded them at the advice of Too-koo-li-too, who said there was danger of fighting and murder. She had been made aware of their custom of introducing a short, sharp-pointed bone inside of their mittens, so that, when boxing with these, they may strike a Repulse Bay native, if possible, on the side of the head near the eye ; — a deathblow struck in play. They then proceeded to carry out a grand an-Jcoot-ing, in the course of which their an-ge-ko gave a reply from the Spirit that Too-koo-li-too's sick babe should be given to them : a ruse, as Hall notes, to obtain further gifts. He came un- willingly to the conclusion that his own party lacked the nerve needed for any risk which might occur in going forward, although Nu-ker-zhoo had for himself protested that he was not afraid. With a sad heart, *' disappointed but not discouraged," he prepared for his return; yet making the resolve that he would endeavor, in the following year, to organize a party of four or five white men, with whom, together with Ar-mou, Nu-ker-zhoo, and Ebierbing, he would again come over this route and reach King William's Land. For that journey he would May, J 866.] Holl Compelled to Return. 261 now make a deposit of expedition stores at Cape Weynton. His notes of this day contain these words : " Thanks be to God, I have yet the heart to persevere in what I have taken upon myself to do : to reach King William's Land, and there finish the mission that I am on. Ob- stacle after obstacle has yet to be overcome before I shall triumph, but by the aid of High Heaven I will yet succeed." The RETURN JOURNEY could be expected to bring but httle of special interest or of an experience differing from that so recently passed through ; the route followed, as will appear by the map (Chap- ter Xin), was nearly the same; the Pelly Bay men traveled in Plall's company until the 19th of the month, and then fell back to repair damages to their sleds. On the 5th, both companies made their start for Repulse Bay, presenting a singular and grotesque appearance with all their sledges, teams of dogs, men, women, and children ; the latter, of all ages and sizes, from infants in hoods to half-grown boys and girls. The sledge now driven by Nu-ker-zhoo was a relic of Sir John Ross's vessel, the Victory ; the runners, about 1 2 feet in length, being made of a part of one of her masts which had been found, many years, ago in the ice near the entrance to Pelly Bay. The day following, the stores for the next proposed journey to King William's Land were deposited in two places close to Cape Weyn- ton, the second deposit being that of a large trunk at a point near a cache once made by Dr. Rae; an accurate list of all these stores appears in the notes. A tent given to Hall by Captain Kilmer of the Black Eagle, was spread over the articles, and then ponderous stones were piled above, and the bearings of the two deposits from prominent neighboring points carefully recorded. While making these caches, 262 Tlie Journey Bach to Fort Hope. [May, isee. a water sky was clearly seen by all the company underneath the dark nimbus clouds, East Northeast. The traveling on the 7th was under the disadvantage of a snow- squall, which overtook them at noon. The lead was taken by the Pelly Bay natives. As soon as Hall came up with old Kok-lee- arng-nun (a cripple), he took him and Too-koo-li-too on his own sledge, and walked by their side. Too-koo-li-too had with her as gifts from the strange natives, two pairs of scissors, a cap-box, and some shot that came from Ross's Victory, done up in the skin of a deer's heart. The distance made before 2.15 p. m. was almost the same with that of the 30th of April on going up. A prominent group of hills, called Kig-loo-a-te, was seen bearing south 72° west\from the forty-third encampment, and other high land called Shoung-noo-gua to the northwest ; a ravine divides the two. The high land extends back nearly a mile from the low coast The temperature was now much higher; the thermometer, hanging on the shady side of the sledge and affected by reflection, read 36°. All day, the snow was deep and soft, and the ice completely worn off from the shoeing of the sledges, so that scarcely two miles an hour on the average could be made. The coast-line was more closely followed on the travel of the 8th and 9th, and was found to be very irregular and generally low. At one point a ridge composed of sand, clay, and shingle only 4^ feet in height looked to those traveling on the sea-ice "like a considerable mount." From Cape Weynton to Cape Lady Pelly, this low land, mostly consisting of frozen mud, was without snow, and appeared to have been so through the winter; some patches having thawed, forming soft mud. In the frozen mud were many fossils, of wliich Ar-mou brought in from his took-too hunt a fine lot, and the wife of the May. 1S60.1 Killing Marmots. 263 old chief emptied out on the sled a number from her full mittens; Hall had instnicted all the Innuits to bring to him all curious-looking things whenever they saw them. Little provision remained on hand. He gave out his unpalatable damaged Marshall sausage-meat for breakfast, and, while he ate of the same food, he was glad to find that his plan succeeded, for a couple of the unwilling Innuits now promptly started off for took-too. He gives a racy account of the taking of some six-ics (marmots). Ebierbing, while the Pelly Bay Innuits intensely watched him, three times in succession missed tho little animal, though using Hall's best rifle. The creature sat by his hole without fright all the time, except at the first shot when it went into his hole, but was quickly out again. At another hunt, Nu-lier-shoo, Ebierbing, and^r-wow were all out with rifles; but, after their firing three shots, six-y darted into his hole and was in- stantly out again; one minute later, another shot, and six-y was again out, as if saying "Kill me, if you can." The Pelly Bay natives laughed at tlie weapons used; for with a simple string having a slip-noose — sometimes made of the end of a whip-lash — they readil}^ caught a number of these little animals, one of which made a good meal for a man. See-pung-er, one of the Pelly Bay men, came in at midday on the 9th, and, sticking his thumb and fingers straight out, showed his answer to the question how many he had killed and the bites he had received. The wife of Kok-lee-arng-nun also showed three six-ies slung on her back; she had caught them by a "slip-a- noose" at their holes. But the stock of provisions was still short; the company at times could take but one meal a day, with the addition of a small bit of whale-beef, the dog-food. A crow which had come very close to the traveling party escaped both the dogs and 264 Fossils in the Clay and Sand-Hills. (M«y, isee. rifle-shots. An owl had the same happy deliverance, but a few part- ridges were secured. At night in the kom-mong — pern mi can- soup, with Borden biscuit, refreshed all except Too-koo-li-too, who, on account of her sick child, was allowed by her superstitious friends to eat bread only. On the two days that followed, success in the deer-hunt re-sup- plied the company with fresh meat, and the dogs received something, although but little and that of "not much more account than sawdust- pudding"; the supply for seventeen animals being only two deer- paunches. But they had stolen seal-blubber and whale-meat from the sledges while they were loading up, in spite of unmerciful poundings with big sticks and clubs. On the 11th, when the party came near Rae's "Point Hargrave," Hall left the sledges, and ascending the point, found its height to be about 75 feet above the level of the sea, and that it was a hill of rock (granite and gneiss, as Rae has recorded it), having on its eastern side a small inclined plane leading from the coast up to a gap on the ridge. From the top of the hill. Cape Lady Pelly and the land on the east side of the sea of Ak-koo-lee were plainly visible. At 7.15 p. m., having made scarcely more than a mile an hour on a course south- west from this point, he rested for the night, making his forty-fifth encampment on a sand-plain covered with very dirty snow. The after- noon route had been one of perplexing difficulties in making any head- way with the loaded sledges, but the discovery of clay and sand hills of a most interesting character, containing stores of valuable fossils of innumerable kinds, well repaid him for the outlay of human and dog muscle that had been expended in getting through the labyrintli of tins "mud and fossil city," as he hastily called the place. On getting iTiBT, 1866.1 Death of Too-koo-U-too's Bahe. 2G5 through these fossil hills and returning to his igloo, he found that Nu-ker-zlioo had put within it all the deer he had killed; a most kindly act, done without even a hint. It was another gratification to learn that his own black dog had added eight pups to their live stock. On the 13th, the long-expected death of Too-koo-li-too's child. Little King William, took place. The almost distracted mother, the moment she found that it was really dead, rushed out of the igloo, pressing the dead baby to her bosom and pouring out her soul's deep grief. Her leaving the igloo so quickly was in accordance with Innuit custom ; for if this is not done when any one dies in it, everything within becomes worthless. In this case it was considered that the mother went out soon enough, so that the bedding and everything else need not be thrown away. In ten minutes she returned and took her seat on the bed-platform, grieving for a very long time as a loving mother only grieves. At lengtli she was persuaded by Mam- mark to let the dead babe be taken from her bosom and wrapped in a small furred took-too skin. Mam-mark insisted that, according to the custom of her people, the remains must be buried at once ; but, on Hall's remonstrating and urging that they should be kept till at least tlie next day, a compromise was made, and the child that died at 2.5 minutes past 1 p. m. was buried at G.30. The remains had been dressed in a suit of young took-too furs, made by the mother the winter before They were now wrapped in a blanket of took-too skin of long fur, tied with tliongs, and having a loop in it to go over the neck of the mother, who must carry the corpse. A hole having been cut through the wall of the igloo for the procession of four persons in single file. Hall, Mam-mark, the bereft mother with the babe suspended from her neck, and the father following close, proceeded to tlie place 26G Burial of the Babe. [May, isee. of burial on a little hill, which Hall had selected. Before the remains were laid in the grave, he wrote out the following record : These are tlie mortal remains of Little King William, tlic ouly child of Ebierbing and Too koo li-too, the interpreters of the last Franklin Eesearch Ex- l)edition. Deposited here May 13, 18GG, the day of its death. God hatli its soul now and will keep it from all harm. — C. F. Hall, May 14, 18GG. This he placed within the fur cap covering the head of the child, and returning next day to the grave, he erected near it a monument of five stones, three at the base — typical of Faith, Hope, and Charity — and on these the two others, forming the figure of a cross At the burial, though it was blowing a gale and a snow-drift was flying, the mother could not be prevailed upon to wear her double jacket to protect herself from the storm. " She must needs comply with custom." Under the same influence, she had already borne for some days the inconvenience of wet feet ; neither could her wet stock- ings be dried, nor the rips in her boots repaired. It was little comfort to her, a few days after, to be told by Mam-mark and Nu-her-zJioo that the cliild would have lived, as the " Spirit" had said to the an-gc-Jco, if she had not consented, by Hall's advice, to receive it back from Nu- ker-zlioo's wife, or if she had not departed from the customs of the In- nuits in the matter of her daily living. She renewed lier subjection to the customs of the j^eople, and received their instractions, that for one year her husband and herself must be very careful what they should eat, and tliat tlie same be not raw, and her husband began his compli- ance with such instructions by pleading the death of his child as for- bidding him to carry on liis usual daily duties even in the matter of prei)aring the ammunition necessary for the lumt. Hall says liero that probably none of the Eskimo tribes are cursed with so many ridiculous customs as the Repulse Bay and Ig-loo-lik people. may, is««.j Encampment near North Pole Lake. 267 The 17th was a very warm day, the thermometer reaching 38°, although no sun appeared ; the upper walls of the hom-mongs fell in, and made necessary the erection of tent-coverings overhead. The day following, the snow melting as it fell, prevented the party from resum- ing their return journey. The shoeing of the sledges also was found entirely thawed off during the night. In the morning Hall found that one of his pups had been suffocated by its mother lying upon it, and that, failing to lick it into life, she had eaten it for her breakfast. On the 19th, lie found she had repeated the act, a few bloody spots only remaining to tell the tale This left him but five of the litter, the birth of which had given him hope of efficient aid on his next journey. He had to handle this mother black dog and her pups him- self, as the Innuits, through some superstitious notions, were unwill- ing to feed or to harness them. At 8 15 p. m. of this day the party began a further advance, pre- ferring to travel at night, and averaging two and a half miles per hour, until twenty minutes past midnight. On leaving the small lake on which they had made their thirty-fifth encampment, April 19, deviat- ing now from the route of that date, they crossed a bluff the descent of which being very abrupt was swifth^ made by the loaded sledges themselves, when the teams, which had been doubled up for the ascent, were successfully detached. On the 21st, the party got back as far as the Lower Narrows, heretofore noticed as a deer-cross- ing, and on the 22d, they made the forty-ninth encampment on the same spot between Christie and North Pole Lake which they had occupied on the 5tli of April. At this place See-pung-er arrived, to the surprise of all, with his family. He had been working hard to rejoin the party since being separated from them at the forty-sixth 268 Arrival at Beacon Hill. [iway, isee. encampment. His sled was found to be very heavily loaded; for, besides his household goods, it had on it two cumbrous ki-a frames, one of which was made entirely from a boat of the Franklin Expedi- tion, and the sledge itself from a mast of Captain Ross's "Victory." In the midst of a howling storm, he was promptly supplied with an armful of took-too meat. The next day, in company with Nuker- zhoo and his family, he again left Hall for a time. On the 23d, the journey down the North Pole Lake was made swiftly by the use of a tent for a sail to the sledges, assisting the poor hungry dogs; the sled itself sometimes getting in advance of them. Ebierbing and She-nuk-shoo traveled beside the sledge to guide it. During the evening, from three and a half to four miles an hour were made by sail only, and at fifteen minutes past 8 a. m. of the 24th, Hall revisited his boat Sylvia and his stores deposited at the base of Beacon Hill, March 31st, and to the record he had then placed on the Sylvia on leaving this point, he now added an inscription summing up the obstacles met with on the journey and his plans for renewing it. He had the satis- faction to find that Ou-e-la had been faithful to his promise of that date, to take from the hill the half-barrel containing the records, and protect them from any strange Innuits. It seemed plain from the snow-tracks that some of Ou-e-la's friends had been recently at the hill, and Ar-mou went off to find him. 'J'he notes of the 25th read thus : To-day my King William party was ended, for the present at least. This, of course, was in correspondence to the natural course of passing events. Our separation was, however, for this reason : I desire to remain lierc; a few days, and try and do some ^^Titiug, recounting the iin])<)itant matter 1 Iuinc gained of the Pelly Bay natives relative to Sir .John Franklin's Expedition, Ebier- bing, Too-koo-li-too, Mam mark, and her little son remaining here with me. On May, 1866.] Holl Will Rcnew his Journey. 269 the return of the successful tooJc-too party of this day, I invited all the men into my Icom-mong, and there I served each with moderate drinks of capital good Bourbon whisky. We talked, smoked, and drank — talked, smoked, and drank till every heart felt that it should be friendly to everybody. One matter is worthy of record : all the men of my party are still determined to accompany me next spring, when I purpose to try again. It vrould seem, however, that this last statement was directly against the experience of the 5th of the month which has been re- corded ; for, on that day, every one of Hall's companions except Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too had insisted on his return, Nu-her-zhoo (Jack) particularly had shown the white feather even while standing before Hall, boasting of his courage ; and it will be found in the story of the year 1869, that when Hall first succeeded in reaching King Wil- liam's Land, this man, when the whole company were well armed, was again much alarmed at the first sight of strange Innuits. Hall certainly found each of the tribes hostile and apprehensive — mutually fearing and feared. Before setting out on this journey, his party had more than once spoken of the See-ne-mee-utes — the natives of ^'■See- wee," near Cape Berens — as being a party of murderous fellows ; their way of greeting a stranger* being to present a long knife seemingly as a gift, but allowed accidentally io slip into his breast. (See page 277.) That a fight was not in some like way begun by the Felly Bay men on their meeting wiih Hall's company, seems to have been owing to their having learned from Too-koo-li-too about the ships in the bay — Hall's friends. * The customs of the Eskimos of Cumberland Inlet in this, .as reported by Mr. L. Kumlien, of the recent Howgate Expedition, seem less dangerous, but equally strange : "When a stranger arrives at an encampment, the Ancoot and the stranger face one an- other. Both have mittens of seal-skin. The stranger complacently folds his arms over his breast, and inclines his head to one side, so as fully to expose his cheek, vrbile the Ancoot deals bim a terrible blow on it, sometimes felling him to the ground. The two actors now change parts, jinii it becomes the stranger's turn to strike, which he does with a vengeance. The two then kiss each other, the ceremony is over, and due hospitality is shown to the stranger by all. HAPTER J/- JOURNEYS AROUND REPULSE BAY, SUMMER-LIFE, AND THIRD WINTER. JUNE, 1866. TO FEBRUARY, 186/. CHAPTER IX. Conditions necessaey for a new joueney — Experience with the natives of Pelly Bay — Arrival of the tribe at E-nook-shoo-lik — Hall goes out to meet them — Eeception OF THEIR AN-GE-KO — THEIR STORY OF THE WHITE MAN'S MONUMENT AT ShAR-TOO — THE tin cup with paper in it which was thrown away — The skeletons by the monu- ment — The superstitions of these people — Hall accused or bringing sickness AMONG THEM — ThE HANGING OF THE OLD CHIEF AND HIS WIFE BY THEIR SON ''TO TAKE THEM TO THE HAPPY LAND" — HaLL KEEPS THE PEACE BETWEEN THE PELLY' BaY AND THE Eepulse Bay nati'S'es — Settles some old feuds in his tupik — His sledge journeys FOR survey of the BAY — EMBARRASSMENTS IN HIS WORK — DEATH OF OU-E-LA'S WIFE — Ill-treatment of women — Arrival of the whalers — Hall requests them to spare MEN from their CREWS FOR HIS NEXT JOURNEY — HiS ASSISTANCE TO THE CAPTAINS — TlIE SHIPS DECIDE TO WINTER IN THE BAY— HaLL ENCAMPS NEAR THEM IN NOVEMBER — IXTER- COUESE THROUGH THE WINTER — ThK CAPTAINS WILL NOT LET THE InXUITS FURNISH I[IM WITH DOGS. ''Disappointed but not discoueaged " ; — yet Hall, when writing this, had a full consciousness that at least nine months must be passed before he could set his face again toward Ki-ki-tuk for the Records. He had turned back from Colvile Bay, as has been noted, with the words above, written down in his notes in sorrow, but with an unbroken purpose. The experience of the sledge journey had satis- fied him that he nmst try to organize his party more wisely, if he would secure even partial success ; and he looked forward with the hope of obtaining assistance for this from the whalers when they should come into the bay. The alternatives before him were either to S. Ex. 27 18 27.S 274 Plans for the Next Year. iJnne, isee. gain this lielp or to return with them to the United States. But the latter of these is not named in the journals of that season. For a renewed advance he had fully decided that he must have the services of several armed white men as a guard, and he knew as well that he must secure full provision for a long journey and at least one good dog-team. To procure the dogs might prove to be his hardest work. For either one or both of these objects, he would be dependent on the further continuance of good-will between himself and the Re- pulse Bay natives and between them and the Pelly Bay men ; for, as these men had already caused his own Eskimos to turn back at the very point from which he had been ready to cross to King William's Land, it was clear that, even if no hostile attack were made, the same intimi- dations brought to bear upon any new party might arrest its work. Among the Neitchilles a guard might be a necessity. That the Pelly Bay men were, as Mam-marh had told him, "a queer people, doing many strange things," came out very plainl}^ in their intercourse from the da}^ of their again meeting Avith Hall and his natives. 8ee-pung-er, who had been the first to overtake the return party on their journey, was quickly the occasion of an appre- hension that he would bring out an old feud with them ; for no sooner had he met with his first success in the use of a gun, than he was heard to say it would be a good thing to kill Innuits with as well as deer. He proved to be a careless fellow, too, in using the weapon, and Hall felt sure that if his men could prevent it, See-pung-er would never be allowed to carry it back to his own country. The rest of the Pelly Bay men were willingly delayed some time on their journey by a long musk-ox hunt. Their coming down to E-nook-shoo-lik, where Hall made his fifty-second encampment, on June, 1866.] The Pellji Bay Natives Arrive. 275 tlie 10th of June, excited new fears. He had come over from his quiet rest at Fort Hope, where he had much desired to make up the the notes of his late sledge journey, because the Innuits had repre- sented that they must move nearer the whaling grounds before the disappearance of the snow and ice should take from them the means of transporting their boats and sledges. To be at hand for the capture of whales was also what he most desired for himself, in order to further his plans for securing the services of the white men. A few days after his coming down, an alarm was given that strangers were seen in the distance, and Oong-oo-too, harnessing up his dogs, drove Hall rapidly over the sea-ice to meet them. At 11 p. m. they were found at a time when in trouble at crossing a fissure in the ice ; their driver, taking Hall's advice to pull his dogs back from the slush in which they were plunging, crossed over readily a little nearer the encampment. The old chief Kok-lee-arng-nun and his followers renewed cordial greetings with Hall's party. Their teams were joined and sledges formed in line, and a triple team fol- lowed into E-nook-shoo-lik by a motley group, made up of sixteen men, women, and children. The Iwillik women then marched up singly behind the Pelly Bay an-ge-Jco, and hung, each, some odd article, as a bead, a piece of took-too fringe, or an old razor upon his jacket ; the an-ge-ko himself raising his eyes solemnly upward and now and then extending his right arm. Each Iimuit took one or more of the strangers into his tupik., Hall having for his guest his old friend Kok- lee-arng-nun; after which, festivities followed during some days, includ- ing a mock musk-ox hunt, in which men and boys, wearing the skins of the animals, were fiercely hunted by other men and dogs. But throughout the reception, each of the Pelly Bay men had 276 8ee-pung-er''s Story. iJunc, isog. kept full in sight the long knife which he had shown at their first meeting. An old quarrel between See-pung-er and Ou-e-la, which had once nearly cost Ou-e-la his life, and another between old Sec-gar and KoJc-lee-arng-nun, were still unsettled. It could not then be known at what moment an outbreak might occur, although Ou-e-la was at the time absent. He had just lost one of his wives, and knew that No. 2 was near her death. It was all-important for Hall to keep the peace. He had already learned something of value connected with the Frank- lin records from See-pung-er and his wife, and he hoped to learn much more from others of Koh-lee-arng-nun! s party. See-pung-er^ three years before, had visited King "William's Land. He told Hall that he had seen, near Shar-too, not far from Pelly Bay, a very high and singular E-nook-sJioo-yer (monument), built by koh- lu-nas, of stones, and having on its top a piece of wood something like a hand pointing in a certain direction. He had also seen a monu- ment about the height of a tall man, at another point somewhere between Port Parry and Cape Sabine. When asked whether he had thrown this pile down, he answered, ''Only enough of it to find some- thing within." And when further closely questioned, he said that what he found was the small tin-cup which he had just given to Too- koo-li-too ; that a tight top had fitted it ; and that it was thickly and tightly wrapped up and tied, and had been found full of just such looking stufi" as the paper on which Hall had been writing; but, he added, ''this stuff inside was good for nothing to Innuits, and so was given to the children, or thrown away." He said further that he and his uncle had spent one night near this monument, wrapping themselves up in blankets taken from a pile of white men's clothing found there, and that a koh-lu-na\s skeleton lay by the pile. Hall June, 1866.] Httll Accuscd of Miscliief. ''Ill thought that this story seemed to confirm what had been before told him, — that when FrankHn's ships were crushed by the ice, some of his party, after trying to go down the west side of King Wilham's Land, had turned back, doubled Cape Felix, and come down on the eastern coast. And, at the time, he persuaded himself that the monument was the vault containing the long-desired records. He had a curious though short experience of trials with these Pelly Bay people. His first trouble was, that, after a short absence fi'om them, he found on his return, it had been whispered around that he had been the cause of the death of Nu-'ker-zliod's young child — bringing on spasms by placing his hands on its head. Relieved of apprehension from this rumor by being called on to prescribe for the old chief himself and for some children, he was told that the wife of the chief had hung herself, because he had persuaded her husband to remain longer with the Repulse Bay men, and because he had given medicine to these children. The tribe, one and all, accused Hall of being the author of these sicknesses. Not long after this the old chief himself was hung.* But with the assistance of his two Eskimos, Hall prevented any permanent or serious quarrels between the two parties. Soon after the first coming of the Pelly Bay men, old See-gar and KoJc-lee-arng- * The circumstances of these deaths are not, however, given by Hall with his usual clear- ness. At a later date, he says that the son of the chief told him, with tears in his eyes, "He was very sorry he had no father or mother living with him, but that it had been his duty to hang them, as it was at their request, and that by their dying thus they would be sure of going to that happy place where all good Inuuits go." See-pung-er, it was well known, had hnug his grandfather when he had become feeble. Too-koo-li-too said that these Pelly Bay natives, as well as the Neitchilles, believed in Eud-lee-pur-me-an and Ad-lec-ptir-mc-an (a good and a bad place) ; but she thought the Iwillik people believed in nothing of the kind. ~ In some memoranda prepared by Hall for one of his lectures after returning from this Expedition, he speaks of this woman's having been hung as a "peace-offering." This points to a difficulty that separated the two tribes for a time, the Pelly Bay men going off some distance; in the memoranda just named, the words "a terrible time" are found in this last connection. 278 Quarrels Settled. [jnne, isee. nun had closed, in his tiipik, their long-standing grudge, the blind old chief confessing that he had once wronged See-gar by deserting him when nearly starving, and See-gar avowing that he no longer retained any ill-feeling. The two men then sealed their renewed friendship by such jests as these: ^^ Kok-lee-arg-nun, why are you now tottering around with a staff, crooked as you are, your face with deep furrows, and your eyes dim; you used to be the smartest and best-looking Innuit in the whole country?" "But, See-gar, how is it that gou are no longer fond of all the pretty women to be found ? " — which last speech brought out a general laugh, as See-gar'' s reputation in this mat- ter was well established. Besides these reconciliations and the previous unhapj^y troubles which have been referred to, little more is found in Hall's notes of the intercourse between the two tribes, except that they remained near to each other and to the whalers, who, when they came, gave em- ployment to both on their ships. While so employed, Koong-e-ou-uk, the Pelly Bay an-ge-ko, having been severely beaten by a sailor belonging to Captain Kilmer's ship through a misunderstanding about a pair of boots which the wife of the native was making, was pro- tected through Hall's interposition. While waiting for the coming of the whalers, he could not remain unoccupied. He planned for himself the work of a survey of the bay of which Ou-e-la drew for him a rough sketch. He hoped also to secure at least one whale, the proceeds of which with those of the one cached the year before, would be so much toward the pay of the guard he would need for Neitchille. The sledge journe}'s made for this survey are marked on the accompanying map. They were mainly these: Before meeting again 86°20' 8G°C ,.'^'- k. B alters E N-.l' PottersP! , ,}^;-.: 'iV;^ Ships 65 f^' P U L S E ''T, -".« v ^''r,„ Bea.ch Point, % 86° 20' 86° C July, 1866.] IlaU Begins His Survey of Repulse Bay. 279 with the Pelly Bay men, he had crossed from Iwilhk to the west side of the ba}^, to a point where he discovered a river of which the Inniiits had often spoken, and which he now named Grinnell River; it was found to be as large as the North Pole River of Dr. Rae Oii-e-la, wishing to visit his wife's grave on Tee-kee-ra, was Hall's dog-driver, and with his usual success killed several seals on the journey. The travel was difficult; they had a small sled and a small team; and the snow was tracked with blood from the feet of the dogs, made sore by the hard and sharp roughnesses of the ice-crystals on the floes. The travelers themselves had a shelter for the night within a snow wall 18 inches in height, across which they stretched their blankets. Wliile Ou-e-la was on his hunt, Hall had to make his lunch on the vermin dugr out from underneath the deer-skins. Astronomical obser- vations gave for the position of Tee-kee-ra, latitude QQ° 26'. On the 14th of the month he began from E-noo-shoo-lik his long desired attempt to sketch a full outline of the coast for his friends the whalers ; hoping thus to tempt their more frequent visits to the bay. He had for his companions only two Innuit boys, Oot-pik and She-nuk- shoo, who were to be drivers and hunters. With these he started first for Fort Hope. On the first day, the chronometers were injured by the breaking of the tie while passing over very rough floes. The dogs sufi'ered much from sore feet ; one of them falling into a crack in the ice was saved only by the use of a lasso. The second day was divided between surveying and an advance on the route. But after a halt to secure a deer, the travel was con- tinued until 3 a. m. of the 1 6th, when they reached the banks of North Pole River. On the last part of their route the melted snow had been found in some places standing to the depth of three feet on the ice ; 280 Journeys Around JRepulse Bay. [Jniy, isee. the dogs with great difficulty dragged the sled through. Hall sent his boys off to hunt, and occupied the next two days in surveys made from Beacon Hill, from which place the coast of Southampton Island again loomed up by refraction. Renewing his journey and arriving again at Tee-kee-ra, he busied himself in renewed observations for position, in taking sextant-angles and compass-bearings, and in sketching the coast-line. In such work the time passed far more swiftly than while housed by the storms which had swept over his igloo. The boys proved to be good hunters for deer and for ducks, but failed to secure a single seal by their invariably bursting into a loud laugh when getting near the animals. To help their seal-training, he afterward made for each a shield like those used by the Greenlanders. When he was back at E-nook-shoo-lik the whole party of the Innuits had gone off, leaving no sign whatever to tell the white man where to find them. Hastening to Ships' Harbor Islands, he found no traces of them, and returned to E-nook-shoo- lik to spend two days more in his surveys. Having crossed next to Sheg-lua, at the head of the bay but still without success in his search, on the 28th he set out for Oog-la-ri-your Island, making a diffi- cult journey, but finding his old friends about five miles from the island. The boys were the first to see the tupiJcs on the shore. Ebier- bing and Too-koo-li-too had been persuaded by the others to go off with some friends for a short deer-hunt. The next sledge trip was to Rock Knob ; thence to Pi-tik-tou-yer Heights, and, finally, back to the neighborhood of E-nook-shoo-lik, during which journeys and up to August 8 the observations and sketching of the coast-line were con- tinued. These had not been made without trying experiences. The August, 1866.] Serious Obstacles in Surveying. 281 changing temperatures of the past seasons had cracked the silvering in many places on the mirrors of his sextant, and rapid and unaccount- able changes appeared in the index corrections. His compass often changed so rapidly that no dependence was placed on its readings ; and excessive refraction shut out some points of land and brought new ones prominently in view. ''At times an island seemed to rise and fall as if an earthquake were at work." In the day-time, radiation often forced his work into the night; but the Innuits made much use of the night for their work and their boisterous festivities; and by staying up all night and sleeping all day, created for him such an uncertainty of time that he sometimes forgot to wind his chronometers, and was perplexed when writing up his notes. Overcoming his difficulties and annoyances so far as he could, he began the sketch of the bay, of which the accompanying map represents the line as found completed during the later years of his stay. The journeys were not without some incidents of interest. At Pi-tik-tou-yer, he found a well-built circular stone wall 30 feet in diameter. It was an old camping-ground, showing many Eskimo remains, and offering inducements to any one whose mind was not, like his, absorbed in other purposes, to remain for its full exploration. Incidents of a different character, however, now filled up all the hours of thought not given by Hall to his main work. This seems plain from the extreme fullness of his notes when setting down the con- tinued annoyances to which he was still subjected. The iron rule of Innuit customs, already often referred to as hindering his plans, seems to have stretched itself out before him as though it must touch some- where every purpose which he might form. It were useless to specify such cases, a number of which will be found in future chapters ; a 282 Beath of Queen Emma. [August, is66. single incident of interest may be here noted. On the 1st of July, Ou-e-la, the chief, lost his only remaining- wife, known under the name of Queen Emma. The poor creature had been very harshly treated through a long sickness, having been refused nutritious food at a time when it might have saved her life, and again refused when charged, through jealousy, with giving premature birth to a child without in- forming her husband of it. She was accounted guilty through the decree of the an-ge-ko, which shut out all protestations of innocence from herself and her mother; and the maledictions poured upon her by the ignorant of the village had helped to hasten her death. Her suffer- ings were another proof of the indifference and hard-heartedness found habitually to prevail toward the women ; other instances fre- quently occurring, as in the case of See-pung-er' s wife, compelled to walk more than sixty miles, with a liy-ah on her head and a child of three years in her hood, though herself in a delicate condition.* The death of Queen Emma gave Hall some annoyance, because Ou-e-la^s old enmity against the Pelly Bay men was now revived by the declar- ation of the an-ge-ko that it was their coming which had caused it. But some relief for all this was at hand. His health, which had been somewhat broken, was restored. The season had been almost *Tlio degraded conditiou of women in countries not under tlie inflnenco of Christianity is too well known to need comment. The chief of a tribe near the Mackenzie expressed the com- mon feeling of Northern savages when he said : "Women were made for hibor. One of them can cari-y or haul as much as two men can do. They also ])iteh our tents, make and mend our clothing, keep us warm at night; and, in fact, there is no such thing as traveling any considerable distance, or for any length of tiuie, in this country without their assistance. Though they can do everything, they are maintained at .1 triiliug expense; for as they stand cook, tlie very lickiny of their jinijvrs in scarce times i.v sufficient for their subsistence." — (Hearne's Journey to the North Ocean, p. 54.) Compare with this their condition in Central Australia: "While husband, father, or brother is feasting on the game which she has cooked, a wife or sister thinks herself fortunate if now and then a nearly-cleaned bone or a piece of scordied meat is tossed to her as to a dog. — Wood's Uncivilized Races.) August, J866.) News from Home. 283 uninterruptedly pleasant ; during the nights the thermometer had not fallen below 40°, ranging during the day between 48° and 57°. His Innuit friends, from whom he had at one time separated himself, were not really estranged from him, and Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too stood, as ever, steadfastly close. The relief came on the last days of the month, when the first whale of the season was heard to blow ; and better still, when refraction brought up from the ice-horizon the forms of three ships under full sail. It was not a mirage of disappointment. A boat from the Pioneer, Captain Morgan, of New London, in a few hours pushed off to hail Hall from the shore; and it cannot be thought unmanly in him to have recorded that he answered this salutation in tears. The sight once more of a single friend, from the midst of his firmest friends, was a full overmatch for all the roughness that had been forced upon his nature by the ignorant and the degraded. To complete the pleasur- able change, several other vessels soon came to Ships' Harbor Islands, and the Black Eagle brought to him letters from Mr. Grinnell. From Messrs. Harpers, his publishers, they brought a copy of the "Arctic Researches," the preface of which volume had been dated " On Board the Bark Monticello, June 30, 1864," and its last proof-corrections sent from the ship when just leaving the harbor of St. John's, with the indorsement, "All well and in good spirits, bound for the glorious North." Mr. Grinnell sent the following letter from Lady Franklin to Mr Cornelius Grinnell: Upper Gove Lodge, October 18, 1865. My Dear Cornelius: I return your father's letter with many thanks. Please thank him from [me] for his kind I'ememhrance of the deep interest I feel in all these researches of his brave and adventurous protege., and ask him to con- 284 Letter from Lady FranJclin. [August, isee. tinue sending mo all the information he gets. jSTo one, especially no one of the Arctic oflBcers, can be indifterent to the news, bnt they see the painful side of the matter as well as the other. It is our bounden duty, as it is an impetuous in- stinct, to rescue them if possible, even though we may feel shocked as at the sight of skeletons rising in their winding-sheets from the tombs ; but the latter impression seems among people in general to be the i:)revailing one. It is felt that they, or he, would return, after a death of near twenty years, to a world that he knows not, in which the loved were gone, the living changed, and in which his own brain would turn with the momentous pressure of his feelings and the bewil- derment of his ideas. Sir Eoderick seems shocked at the news. He has no faith at present in the recovery of any living man, and deprecates more harrowing revelations. On this latter i)oint I am siu'e you will guard, dear Mr. Grinnell. If the journals of my husband's expedition should be brought to light, nothing that reflects on the character of another shoidd be published — nothing that would give sharp pain to any individual living. As respects my husband, I feel sure that Mr. Giinuell will yield me his journal if he should ever get it into his posses- sion. I offered £100 for it, in McClintock's Exiiedition, to any man who brings it back to me. That reward shall hold good, though I am sure Mr. Hall does not require any jjecuniary stimulus for the good work he is engaged in. I wish I might be allowed to offer another £100 toward any equipment that may be made in future, either in aid of Mr. Hall's work or for his own recovery, should he unfortunately be missing. I would gladlj^ have done this earlier, had I received timely information of his second voyage to Eepulse Bay, because I should have felt he was' then in the right course, and doing the right thing. When his first plan of going to Northumberland Inlet was brought before me in 1800, it was represented to me by all the Arctic i^eople as the wildest and most foolhardy of schemes, which must necessarily fail, and with which, for the poor man's own sake, I ought to have nothing to do. I believe Hall is now doing exactly what should have been done from the beginning, but which no govern- ment could order to be done. Therefore, you must see how natural it is that I should like, even in the humblest and most subordinate way, to help, or to make Mr. Hall feel that I sympathize, in his labors. It is painful to me that I should appear to have no heart for the rescue of others, because my own dear husband has long been bej'ond the reach of all rescue. # * * Invited to a sofa on the Ansell Gibbs, Hall again found the change from his igloo too great to permit sleep, and at 1 a. m. of the next day was off in the whale-boats cruising with the men. August, 1866.] Hall Endeavors to Hire Men from the Whalers. 285 On this first visit, intent on the one purpose of renewing his explo- rations, he expressed his desire to secure from these vessels the five white men needed to accompany him ; but he met with little encouragement, for the ships having their bare complement, could hardly be expected to spare a man with justice to the objects of their voyage and their obligations to the owners. This difficulty, however. Hall at once pro- posed to overcome by securing for the ships as many Innuits as the white men he asked for, and Captain Kilmer then engaged that if his ship could return home in the month of September following, with a full cargo of oil, he would leave the men who might be engaged by Hall, and whatever provisions he would need. During the whaling season, assistance was rendered to all the whalers, both by Hall's personal efforts and by his influence with the natives. He made observations for time, and was gratified to learn that the rates which he had given to the ships for their ckro- nometers on the previous year, had proved correct. He offered advice as to which whaling-grounds promised the best success ; he sent, out his own parties in the hunts to supply the ships with deer-meat ; and for a time nursed in his own tupik one of the sailors who had the scurvy. The captains were much exercised as to their success in whaling, finding it necessary to make several cruises in different directions, and yet without satisfactory results. Morgan, of the Pioneer, before com- ing into the bay had attempted to get down Frozen Strait, but was prevented by the ice. Cruising next west, and then to the southeast down the Welcome, he had found what seemed a passage there into the Duke of York's Bay, but only looked into it, fearing it was shallow, and finding the bay yet filled with ice. Parry's chart was found by 286 A Second TVhale Captured [August, isee. Hall to have the head of the bay marked "Unexplored." Captain Mor- gan's observations gave ground for hope that a new channel might be found. Later in the season, by advice from Hall of wliat Parry and Lyon had said of the whales found in Gore Bay and Lyon's Inlet, and from what the natives also said of this, a boat was sent into those waters from each of the vessels, but without success. The parties sent out to hunt for supplies for the ships Avere gen- erally diligent and successful. One of these, after killing six deer, re- turned without Ebierbing; on their reporting which, Hall immediately went back with them, and found his lost man at the head of the bay. He had been too busy in the hunt to keep sight of his companions, and was well satisfied that he would be sent for; but he had had the pleasant experience of finding a wolf upon his track, to escape from which he had to wade into a lake and remain there until he tired out the animal's watch. Hall and his party heavily loaded themselves with Ebierbing's venison, but on their way to the boat. Hall was nearly choked by the string which held his pack catching tight under his chin. Another party of six men and three boys, sent out for the double purpose of killing deer, and, if possible, a whale, secured a whale, cached the blubber and brought back the bone from the head. From its length — 9 feet 6 inches from the butt to the end of the hair — Hall judged that sixty barrels of oil could be made from the blubber. The whale's whole length was 60 feet. By the 1st of September, with the help of Ebierbing, Ar-mou, and two other natives, he finished gumming, washing and preparing the bone of this whale and what remained of the one killed the year before. A part of the bone belonging to him had been carried off from the October, 1866.] Anxiouslij Aivaiting. 287 shore by some of the sailors and not. entirely restored. Making- up his remaining- property into eighteen bundles, tied with rope-lashings and a three-stranded braid woven by Mam-mark, he placed on board the Ansell Gibbs a weight of about 1,500 pounds, to be sold on the return of the ship to the United States. But the whalers were not to return that season. The meager results of their cruises were now forcing the four ships, the Black Eagle, Ansell Gibbs, Concordia, and Glacier, to remain out another year; and their captains were soon to choose between their winter- ing in this bay or else at Marble or at Depot Island. The choice between these was of the utmost moment to Hall. If the decision should be to winter at the places last named, none of the crews could be spared to him until the ships should have passed through another year. To go down with them, as invited, might possibly give him the opportunity of learning something of Crozier from the natives of Chesterfield Inlet, for there were rumors of their having seen him. And yet to remain where he was, if the ships left him, was of little promise, since his next journey was dependent entirely on his getting the men he needed, and he was unable to effect the arrangement by which he proposed to substitute for such as might be left with him an equal number of Eskimos; the natives themselves, with but one excep- tion, were unwilling to go. But if the vessels should winter in the bay, he would have the five men who might volunteer for the spring months at the wages of $50 per month, and with these he hoped to make his journey to King William Land, return before the next whal- ing season was over, and be in the United States in the fall of 1867. He waited for the decision of the captains with no little anxiety. Returning to Beacon Hill and erecting his hipik on the same spot 288 Hall Builds an Igloo Near the Ships. [November, isee. where Rae had his tents in 1847, his party succeeded within the next nine days in kilHng forty-one deer, but complained that the animals were shy and had kept off the coast. The crisping of the snow under foot was heard by the deer a long way off, and Hall himself had very little success, for when taking aim, his excitement was such that he invariably failed. He does not give his reasons for finding himself under the influence of this "buck-fever"; they may be almost in- ferred from what has been just written. His right eye had suffered some injury from his having neglected to use the colored glasses when taking his sextant observations; yet he made daily tramps from twelve to fifteen miles in the hunts. Under the anxieties which have been named and the rumor that the ships were to winter at Marble Island in the middle of the month, he again visited the Ansell Gibbs. The harbor was already filled with heavy ice, and the ships were constantly employed in keeping them- selves free; but the decision as to the place of wintering had not yet been made. On his return, before reaching Iwillik, he met with a severe storm which nearly capsized the Sylvia, and in landing he was gale-bound for three days, soon after which Ebierbing became danger- ously ill, continuing sick the whole of the following month. Hall seldom left him. His cliief trials, however, seemed now about to end. The cap- tains decided they would remain in the bay, and he had volunteers for his next journey. For carrying out his plans, therefore, and for a closer social intercourse, on the 24th of November, he moved near the ships, building for himself an igloo on one of the small islands of the group within which the whalers had anchored (No. 1 of the map of Ship's Harbor Island). Intercourse with the ships then became still more cordial. janaary, i86».i The Winter in an Igloo Near the Whalers. 289 The amusements so necessary to sustain the cheerfulness and the health of officers and men during- the tedious rigors of an Arctic winter, were fully maintained on board. A dress ball was given on the 29th, which was kept by the New England captains as Thanksgiving Day. In another, on New Year's eve, when some of the crew and a few of the Innuit women were dressed like civilized ladies, Hall had to make his choice between dancing and speech-making; preferring the former, he led off with the first mate of the ship. The captains always held a seat in reserve for him at their '■'■gammings^'' — yarn-spinnings, chatting, and smoking ; he reciprocated these hospitalities by sharing with his friends the stores lately received from Mr. Grinnell and by liberal gifts of skin-clothing. But while passing through these enjoyments noth- ing diverted his attention from his main purpose of selecting the volun- teers he needed. Quite a number offered themselves; and on shore he began the instruction of those whom he accepted by setting them at work to dig out snow-drifts, and by sending them at different times with his Eskimos to bring in meat from the deposits. He now thought that he had full reason to expect that when the stormy season had passed, he could make with these men a second sledge journey with success. Strange as it might seem to any one but Hall, for these two and a half months he still lived in his snow-hut, in daily sight and sound of the ships, which were now comfortably housed for the winter ; and this although his very frequent invitations to their warm and hospita- ble cabins warrant the belief that he might have taken up his quarters on board. But he declares that he could not rest with ease unless in his igloo. It was his own ; he could write up his notes in it and study his Arctic books. His plans for the next season, too, were again ab- S. Ex. 27 19 290 Men Secured, hut a Team Wanting. [February, iscr. sorbing his thoughts. Even the pack of wolves which swept over his igloo near the ships, carrying off one of the dogs, is spoken of in his journal as though it had happened as an ordinary occurrence, and as though it were in the lonesomeness of Beacon Hill or among the In- nuits at Noowook. He would not depart from his rough Arctic diet ; nor in any other way unfit himself for the mission to which he still thought himself called. But this was again suddenly arrested. Be- fore the first month of the new year closed, he found that he could not possibly make up a dog-team for a new journey. He might lose a whole third year, but this, at any sacrifice, he must endeavor to pre- vent : now that volunteers are engaged, he must secure the dogs. / Chapter X. SLEDGE JOURNEY TO IG-LOO-LIK FOR DOGS. FEBRUARY 7 TO APRIL 1, 18G7. CHAPTER X. COUNTEK-CLAIMS ON TUE InNUITS FOll THEIR DOGS — HaLL DETERMINES TO MAKE A SLEDGE JOUR- NEY TO Ig-LOO-LIK TO PURCHASE HIS OWN TEAJM — LEAVES ShiPS' HaRBOR ISLANDS FEBRU- ARY 7 — First delays — Ou-e-la loses uis way — Provisions become, scarce — The MOUTHS of the DOGS TIED UP TO PREVENf THEIR EATING THE HARNESS — Am-I-TOKE REACHED, BUT NO NATl^'ES FOUND — Ou-E-LA ACCUSES HaLL OF BRINGING HIM TO STARVA- TION — Ig-LOO-LIK REACHED ON THE 27TH — PURCHASE OF DOGS — ViSIT TO TeRN ISLAND, TO Parry's flag-staff — Ou-e-la puts a widow and her household goods on the re- turn SLED — Hall puts her off on the ice — Starts back with another native as DRIVER — OU-E-LA'S BAD CONDUCT ON THE RETURN — HaLL AGAIN SIGHTS THE SHIPS ON the 30th of March — The captains now refuse to let hiji have the men for his JOURNEY. Dogs enough could be found among the natives. They owned sixty-eight ; a number sufficient for nine or ten ordinary teams. Hall had several dogs of his own, and asked but thirteen, to make up the two teams he needed. He had anticipated no difficulty in securing these, for he had just claims upon the natives, as he had bargained for such as he would ask for, and really paid for the larger number in tobacco and other articles. But the captains of the four vessels unitedly inter- posed. They insisted that not a single dog should be permitted by the Innuits to go on this journey; claiming that they "had fed these people through the winter, and had as yet no opportunity of receiving much in return. The natives would soon need all their dogs in sled- ding blubber and bone from the open water to the ships, and the time 293 294 Hall Begins a Long Journey. [February, iser. of Hall's return from his proposed journey might be beyond the open- ing of the season. Then, men and dogs must be actively employed to increase, if possible, the poor returns of the past year." Hall could not even get one of his own dogs, which he had put in Ooh-bar-loo's trust on returning from the last sledge journey. He was the more surprised at this issue, because the use of the teams was as clearly within the ideas of the conversations held in the winter, as was his selection of the white men, which had met the approval of the cap- tains ; if any difficulty on this point had arisen in these conversations some trace of it would be found in his full notes Helpless to enforce claims upon the natives, who were fully willing to keep their promises, he determined to make a sledge trip to Am-i-toke, or perhaps to Ig-loo- lik, even in the very depth of the winter, to buy his teams. The jour- ney might be one of more than three hundred miles ; but another year could not be lost. The captains cordially supplied him with articles of barter, which, within the next few days, he carefully arranged, making up also his stores for the trip. Sending his white men to one of the deposits to get whale-meat for the dog-food, he fed the men on their return with whale-skin, remarking in his notes that he had edu- cated them until they really liked raw, frozen meat, and adding that, perhaps with these very men, on his next voyage, D. V., he would push his discovei'ies to the North Pole. His thoughts had been on such a voyage during the past season. It had been discussed with the whalers, and he had openly avowed his intention to organize an expedition to the Pole as soon as he had completed his present mis- sion ; he held this voyage in nrind Avhen examining the volunteers for his present journey. After waiting the return of some of the natives from a trip made February, 1867.] TJie Bogs Upset tlie Sled. 295 to Lyon's Inlet for deer-meat, by the 7th of the month he had secured fourteen dogs, and left Ships Harbor Islands for Ig-loo-lik. The tem- perature was 40° below zero.* Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, for rea- sons not named, were left behind, and Frank Lailor, one of the white men, was placed in charge of his igloo. Ou-e-la, with his wife and half-breed child and the boy Oot-pik, were his only companions. Arriving opposite Pitiktouyer, Ou-e-la, agreeably to Innuit custom, went on shore to pay a visit to the grave of his brother, Slioo-sJie- ark-nook, and here the first trying delay was met with; for after a night in an igloo, they already missed one of the dogs and found two oth- ers to be useless. A return to the ships became necessary. But another delay was occa- sioned by the dog-lines be- coming entangled ; on which the dogs were detached from the pe-to, but before being again fast- ened to the sled, they had roughly dragged Hall and Oot-pik along for some distance. This, however, was but a renewal of former experiences ; for Hall had more than once known the dog-teams pull well for a little while, then suddenly wheel around and overturn him and his driver. The remedy had been, to jump in among them and pound away with the hatchet until they were made tractable. The pe-to, on which so much depended, was the line, made of heavy walrus or seal skin which fastened the dog-traces to the forward part of the sledge-runners: * It certainly marks strong resolution and conrage in Hall to undertake this northern trip iu Fehniari/. Captain Narcs' (R. N.) judgment is, that, unless for the purpose of saving life, no one should he called upon to undergo the fearful privations of an Arctic sledge jouruey during March or even in the early part of April.— (Narrative of a Voyage to the Polar Sea, 1878.) BEA-R-TOOTH, I'SED AS A TOGGLE. 296 Journey to Ig-lOO-lik. [February, 1867. passed through ivory eyelets at the end of the traces, its ends were bound together by a toggle. When Hall returned, he found that the captains were on a fishing excursion upon a lake seven miles distant. He had to send to them a request for their consent to get other dogs ; he slept that night in his old igloo with Lailor, and the next day rejoined Ou-e-la; his team had already traveled sixty-two miles since their first leaving the ships. On the 10th, they passed up the river at the mouth of which they had built their first igloo, and after crossing valleys filled with deep snow, and ascending a very steep hill, built their second hut upon a little lake. Ou-e-lds child had already proved an an- noyance by its constant whining and insatiable clamor for bread. On the nth, Ross Bay was crossed, in which was observed a tide- hole, half a mile in length, that smoked like a coal-pit. Seals were spoiling in it. The day following, they came to an igloo occupied by a party of Innuits, which Ar-mou's brother, with a team of seven dogs, was conducting toward Am-i-toke ; one of the boys of this party, Tuk- kee-li-Jce-ta, was the son of Ag-loo-ka* a native who was said to have exchanged names with Parry.f An inlet was crossed which was not found on Parry's chart. [For the route see Map, Capter XII.] On the 1 3th, when passing an advance-deposit made by these natives, Ou-e-la liberally helped himself from it to whale and deer meat. The next day, he seemed to have lost the way, wandering about over low ground until, night coming on, he built an igloo on a small pond which was found to be frozen solid. During the whole of the "Spoken of by Parry as being ten years old when met by him. (Journal, 1821-'23, p. 367.) ITlie name Ag-loo-ka appears in Hall's notes as in use by the Innuits at one time for Koss, at another for Crozicr, and here ior Parry ; it seems to be a generic term for an ollicer in command. February, iS6».j SevBrc Triols. 297 15th and 16th, the party were gale-bound, but the time was not wholly lost ; their bedding and clothing were dried in different ways, the clothing by wearing it in bed ; Hall's boots were taken in, one at a time, and kept under his jacket, close to his person. A heavy coating of frost showed itself between his two jackets, for the temperature had been 80° below zero. The stock of provisions was now getting low, bringing fear of a want of food before they could possibly renew their supplies ; nor was it at all certain that they would find natives at Am-i-toke. If they did not, they must hunt walrus out on the drifting ice, and thence push on to Ig-loo-lik. Thus far, they had lived almost wholly on dog-food, their only good provision having been four saddles of venison and twenty pounds of sea-bread, with a little coffee, sugar, and tea ; raw whale meat, skin, and blubber made their substantial working diet. Nothing had been cooked but a little coffee or tea, and in this cook- ing, in making drinking water, and in drying their clothing, they had consumed two gallons of whale-oil ; Hall's native lamp was about half hall's lamp. the usual size. An entrance-way to their igloo, 30 feet in length, made of three united oval igloos, had been built, that the dogs might be protected from the storm ; for the less they were exposed, the less hungi-y and poor would they become. They were sometimes fed freely from the whale-beef, a chunk of a hundred and fifty pounds 298 The Bogs Poorly Fed. [February, iser. of which was given to the hungry beasts, who had ah'eady broken into the storehouse, and twice nearly eaten up their harness. Awaking at one o'clock the next morning, Hall pulled his ther- mometer into the igloo by a string, and found that the temperature was 30° below zero. Looking through the hole, he observed that the wind had died away, the sky was clear, and the moon was shining brightly. Filling his coffee-pot then with ice, he hung it over the fire- lamp, and, after resting for an hour or more, made his coffee, packed up, and again started. Ou-e-laJs child a second time proved very trou- blesome, causing repeated halts ; but by evening Hall had advanced about twenty-two miles, when the party built an igloo large enough to bring within it all their goods for safety from the dogs, which had be- come yet more savage, for even while feeding, the fierce brutes were with difficulty controlled. In the morning, when the igloo was un- sealed, they rushed into the passage-way, wedging Oot-piJc in it so tight that he could not move, and was released only after Ou-e-la and Hall had finished pounding them out of the hut. On the 18th and 19th, he was again gale-bound; his notes express his feelings in the words " Too bad ; but God overrules all." The food on this day was of stinking ooJc-gooJc and whale-meat of a greenish tint, buttered with strong whale-blubber. Ou-e-la thought it would take at least five days yet to reach Am-i-toke — discouraging enough, for the plan was to be back at the ships in time to start for King Willliam's Land March 1 5, but this it now seemed impossible to effect. On the 20th, the temperature was —10° at noon, but the wind was quite strong, and the drifting snow beat fiercely in their faces; yet a steaming cloud of vapor rose from the dogs as they ran along. Hall thought that if the weather moderated they would not give out February, 1867.] Frovisions ExJittusted. 299 for a few days, although their food was nearly gone ; but it was found necessary to tie up their mouths to keep them from eating their draught- lines as they ran. The second day after this, they were fed on a little ook-gook blubber found in a deposit on the shore of the sea which they had now reached by an advance of twenty-four miles. At one time they had pulled through a gorge 10 feet wide, the quartz walls of which were 30 feet high. On the 23d, Am-i-toke was reached, but not a native was to he seen. A journey of four days was yet to be made to Ig-loo-lik. A strong wind now preventing any advance, their igloo on the 24th was built about six miles north of the Ooglit Islands. The next day twenty-three miles were made ; but at night their food was on some wah'us-hide, two years old, which Ou-e-la had found with the blubber at the deposit. On the 26th, their breakfast was on the very last of the meat. Hall says they satisfied their hunger by sharpening up their knives in anticipation of the walrus feast they might have that night at Ping-it-ka-lik. One of the dogs had been furiously set upon by the rest, and before being rescued was nearly eaten up; she was lashed in furs on the sledge. Through the whole day Ou-e-la was anxiously on the look-out for natives, climbing every high piece of ice, and looking sharply to discover some sledge-track, but finding none, he began to look the very picture of despair. From the slower progress now making, it seemed to him that Ping-it-ka-lik could not be reached before night, and if it were, they would find no Innuits there. Before long, therefore, he burst out in anger, charging Hall with having brought him and his family into a starving and hope- less condition, and his wife and Oot-piJc, catching his spirit, looked as savage, and cried out that they would die from starvation. Hall quieted their fears as best he could, and at night in the igloo gave to 300 Arrival at Ig-lOO-Uk. February, 1S67. each a supper of hot tea, with some of his remaining eight pounds of sea-bread, pleasing Ou-e-la by giving to his httle idol cliild as much as to any one of the grown people. He reminded them that they might find walrus deposits at Ping-it-ka-lik, but, if not, could push on to Ig-loo-lik ; that until then, the rest of his bread would be for their free use ; and that, even if no Innuits or deposits should be found at Ig-loo-lik, the}' need not think of starvation, for with their instruments and gear they could get walrus on the drifting ice in the places with which Ou-e-la was familiar. He then gave them some account of the sufferings of white men from want of food in like circumstances with their own; relating those of Franklin and his companions, Richardson and Back, on their return from the Polar Sea. Before sleep came, Ou-e-la^s good humor had returned. The next morning, sledge-ti-acks were seen, and the party, light- ening their load by leaving most of their stores in a snow-house, pressed forward toward Ig-loo-lik. At 2 p. m. the voice of a driver and the cry of his dogs were heard, and an hour later Hall was in the vil- lage, where he was quickly surrounded by a crowd of men, women, and children, who had heard that a koh-lu-na had come. An igloo was soon built, and a log of walrus meat and blubber, weighing full 500 pounds, was drawn in and set before his party. Their breakfast on the next day was once more on cooked meat, after which meal the Ig-loo-lik an-ge-JiO made his appearance, and spent some time in an '^an-koot-ing^^- welcome service, the details of which Hall has not noted. During the first five days of the month of March, he lived in liis snow-house at Ig-loo-lik among the natives of this large tribe, and enjoyed his intercourse. He was well treated, his wants entirely sup- March, 1867.] Ig-loo-Uk Nutives. 301 plied, and his igloo often crowded. Interested in watching the man- ners and customs of the place, and in listening to its traditions, he seems to have been so much occupied in observing the new things about him that he took but rough notes, intending at some future time to write them out more fully. This time never came. The following are a few of the names of the Innuits here met with, some of which found within Hall's full list will appear again on his second visit to this place, as well as on their visits to the whalers in the bay : Ook-pik (the Esliemuttd) and his wife, Kok-goot; Nuk-er-top- hig and his wife, Shuk-too-in; Ar-tung-un and his wife, Miik-e-ung ; Kia and his wife, Pou-de-lung-e-ute ; Ag-loo-ka; Man-u-mit: and the four boys, Noiv-yook^ Ard-er-rook, Pow-der, and Amer-wer-rik. Hall counted at one time forty-two women. While he was writing down his long list, the natives looked on with wonder, and showed yet more surprise when he was able to read their names out of his book. Among those around him he found some connections of Too-koo-li-too. The Ig-loo-lik people appeared to have frequent intercourse with Too-noo-nee (Pond's Bay), from which place they obtained their knives and other weapons. The journey to the bay, they said, could be made, by rapid traveling, in four days. Ar-tung-un., who had come over from Tern Island, remembered Parry and Lyon, both of whom he said were very fond of little children. Lyon, he recollected, had danced the little ones, and sung nursery rhymes to them. Ar- tung-un himself could sing several songs learned from the sailors, and could count in English, tie said that he was once dead on board Parry's ship, and was brought to life by Parry's an-ge-ko bleeding him, and he showed Hall the scar on his arm made by the lancet. Wishing to be well posted in the ways of Ig-loo-lik an-ge-kos. Hall 302 Hall Buys Ms Bogs. [March, iser. requested a professional visit, when two an-ge-hos came to his hut, and after receiving a file as compensation in advance, went through a per- formance of two hours for the relief of his face which was terribly sore from late frost-bites. He thought the performances really won- derful, and that these men are not impostors, but exercise their work in earnest. Having now secured the full good- will of Ig-loo-lik by presenting to the women full supplies of needles and beads, — going around himself among the igloos to deliver these, — he built a high, circular wall of snow close to his own hut for a trading mart. In the center of this he placed his sea-chest, and on it the different articles which he had brought for the purchase of the dogs. His list embraced files, hatch- ets, butcher and clasp knives, and women's or chopping knives, seal and walrus harpoons, pieces of old hoop-iron, old whale-irons to make into seal-spears, pieces of wood for arrows, bows and spear-handles, INNl'IT ARROWS. tin cups and pans, old meat-cans, needles, fish-hooks, fish-lines, pieces of tin for shaJc-koon (skin-dressing), old wrought nails and other bits of iron, beads, sheet-brass for kar-oons, and iron spoons. There was a crowd of men and women, some of whom had come from Tern Island to receive presents. He traded for fourteen dogs in as many minutes, setting his own price on each. On the 6th, he accompanied several families to a settlement out on the ice, near the walrus-grounds, and found there twenty-three igloos; an unusual neatness showing itself in their floors of snow, "iced and almost unstninod;" most of them being lined with seal and walrus march, 1867.1 VisU to Tcm Island. 303 skins, making them quite warm. Their beds were of the most com- fortable kind, great pains being taken when making them to lay down, first a netting of short sticks or whalebone; then walrus or ooh- ^ooA; skins; dried grass; then skins of some kind; then deer-skins. Few walruses were taken, but Hall bought two rolls of low, weighing in all about four thousand pounds, for which he gave some small pieces of hoop-iron, an old meat-can, and a stick of wood.* A few days after, a visit was made with Ou-e-la to Tern Island, to get the services of a native and more walrus meat and blubber. Nine sledges, each drawn by from twelve to twenty dogs, accompanied them, all bound for the seaHng-grounds. They made a lively scene, cracking their whips and racing. The sealers soon left the sledges, and, with their seal-dogs, went off to find seal-holes. On the arrival of Hall's party at the island, most of the men were found to be absent, but in a few igloos were wives and several widows. Some of these were very dark colored. Every one of them wanted needles and beads ; the wife of Ark-shank-u asking a needle for every child she had and one more for a child she was expecting. In the evening, this woman and the mother of the an-ge-ko entertained Hall with another performance, the woman adding to her share in it the small matter of finding in the head of her boy of fourteen years, a plentiful supply of creepers which she promptly transferred to her mouth. While Hall was witnessing this performance, the dogs ate up most of their harness which Ou- e-la had carelessly left on them. Getting ready to return from the island the next day, he found that Ou-e-la, without asking leave, had here made arrangements to * Cominancler (now Admiral) McClintock, on his final search for Franklin, 1859, readily bought reindeer outer coats for a knife each, and hired four Eskimos to build a snow-house for his pai-ty at the rate of a needle apiece. (Voyage of the Fox, p. 204.) 304 Presents Made to Hall. [iTIni«'h, 1S6?. take back with tlieni to Repulse Bay a whole family, with their goods. Hall's sledg-e was now driven by Oong-er-lool; who had a light load, but was a very poor driver, making- but three and a half miles per hour. At one time he made a mistake, whipping the lash of his whip across Hall's poor face, making it sting woefully; but he quickly cut INNl'IT HONE CIIAKM, Hi LOO-UK. INNUIT NKEDLK-CASE, IG-L()()-I,IK. INNUIT KNIFE AND SAW. INNUIT KNIFE. off the end of the lash, and seemed very sorry for the haruj done. Soon after this accident, a warm fur cap was made up for Hall by one of the Tern Island women. Among other presents to him, which were not a few, were " bone charms," held in high esteem, and a bone- handled knife, which was connected with the sad story of some Cum- berland Iidet natives, whose boats had been crushed in the ice, when march, iser.] Visit to Parry's Flag-Staff. 305 nearlj^ all of them were starved to death. The knife had been used to scoop the brains out of the skulls of those who had been murdered to preserve the lives of the rest. Finding that Ou-e-la seemed deter- mined to take back with him to Repulse Bay the family with whom he had been bargaining-, Hall at first resolved to make his own quick return without him, by taking E-nu-men, a native whom he had engaged on Tern Island, as the driver of a full team for a sledge made of kow, with just enough food for six days. He could thus hope to get back in time to leave Repulse Bay for King William's Land by the 1st of April. E-nu-men agreed to go on as fast as he could drive, leav- ing Ou-e-la to come as he pleased. But as the dogs got at this hoiv sled and nearly ate it up. Hall concluded that the journey could not be safely made on a sled which might at any moment be devoured by the hungry beasts; nor could Ou-e-la be trusted to bring down the other dogs in season, A tremendous gale, with falling and driving snow, was a further discouragement, the snow being very soft. On the 14th, a visit was made to Ar-lang-nuk, the spot where Parry erected his flag-staff, and then to Turton Bay. He found a pile or collection of stones where the flag-staff was deposited, and says: "On removing the snow, which only partially covered the stones, I found an excavated place in the center of the circular pile. I then lifted out several large stones, which had probably been thrown in when the flag- staff had been taken doAvn. Then I came to disintegrated limestone of such small size that one could hold fifty or sixty pieces in one hand. On removing a mass of this, I came to chips and fragmentary pieces of the flag-staff. After digging down two feet, I came to Avhere the limestones were frozen solid, thus preventing any further research downward. * * * Could I have dug down into the S. Ex. 27 20 306 The Team Made Up. [March, iser. frozen mass of limestones, I doubt not I could have found the bottle containing the written document which Parry executed and deposited there. * * * 'y\^q piles, or collections, of stones about the flag-staff spot are placed in such order as to represent the four cardinal points of the true compass. * * * There is the furrow or trench, now evidently just as distinct as when first made from the sea-coast to the flag-staff spot ; — made in dragging the flag- staff from the sea to where it was raised. This furrow, made in the disintegrated limestone, is of rounded form, and from two to four inches in depth. I was greatly surprised to find this trench so perfect and unmistakable as to its cause." The name of the land at and around this spot is Koo-pra-look-too. While Hall was visiting a place of such historic interest, he was awaiting the return of Ou-e-la who had been sent off a few miles to get some of the dogs, but after his return, a heavy gale still prevented the setting out for Repulse Bay. He now gathered his teams, and rising at four o'clock in the morning of the next day, he distrib- uted the remainder of his presents and cut up his large sea-chest to give to the men to make their arrows, spears, and harpoons. A stake was then driven down, and the natives were called upon to tie to it all the dogs he had purchased, but he had now one cause of complaint — the only one named as to this people, of whom he speaks as among the kindest and most honest of their race. It was this : One dog was brought, small, earless, and poor; and on its being refused as not the one purchased, further compensation was asked for the one which was then brought forward. The additional pay was given, and this dog proved the best of the team. Having now succeeded in the object for which this severe journey IHarch, 1867. J RetUHl tO tllC BttlJ. 307 had been made, he was eager to begin his return to the bay. But, when entirely ready to leave his encampment a few miles from Ig-loo- lik, he found that Ou-e-la had put on the sled a widow and her child, with all her traps; and he was proof against all expostulation as to the delay on the journey which this must cause. Hall then started with Ook-piJi and E-nu-men and his family on a how sled, and, quickly overtaking Ou-e-la, again remonstrated with him, ordering him to leave the widow behind. Succeeding by bribes in inducing the woman to stay, he finally put her off on the ice, getting the promise of several natives to take care of her return to her frieiids. But the loss of Ou-e-la's new wife proved a trouble greater to Hall than to the disap- pointed chief The travel was heavy, the ]je-to more than once broke, and some of the dogs were continually straying off; by night an advance of only five miles had been made. The teams were then found to be made up of forty-eight dogs, eighteen of which had been purchased. But as all were not at hand, the whole of the next day was spent in going to find the lost ones. Then, four more of them escaping in the night, Oot-pik went back for them, while the rest of the party pressed on to Ping-it-ka-lik. Here E-nu-men conducted the party to a ridge of limestone, on digging down a foot into which, they found two logs of old walrus, which they lashed on their kow sledge. From this point he chose a route almost always inshore from that by which Hall and Ou-e-la had gone up to Ig-loo-lik, and on this hne he crossed a bay on the west side of Fox Channel, extending fifteen miles to the south- west. Hall had not found this bay on Parry's chart, but did not con- sider this strange, as Parry's was a "marine survey only." From this bay he passed into a lake twenty-five miles in length, lat. 68° 45', long. 82° W., on which lake they made their hjloo by the side of a ridge of 308 Oii-c-Ms Conduct. iMarch, iser. ice extending' as far as the eye could reach. Near it, beneath the snow, water was easily obtained, and the frozen kow, placed in this, was thawed in three hours. He now experienced a renewal of the trials which Oti-c-la had given him on his route to Igloo-lik. Repeatedly on that journey he had shown a selfish disposition, especially in helping himself most freely to the best of the provision, of which his wife also secretly took a large share At Ig-loo-lik, to Hall's disadvantage, Ou-e-la had purchased for himself several dogs, and now, on the homeward route, he proved exceedingly careless of Hall's team, while liberally feeding his own. To this he added an increased exhibition of evil temper, the source of Avhich was probably to be found in his disap- pointment in not obtaining the widow. He had cordially agreed to go on this journey for the very purpose of adding to the number of his wives, but Hall, when consenting to this, had not anticipated that he would bring down a family with all their goods. His evil conduct reached its worst on the 2 2d, when he took advantage of Hall's sick- ness from continuil living on walrus-meat, to feast himself and wife more than once, refused a fair supply of food to either Hall or Oot-pik, and subjected the white man, in his feeble state, to the most menial services. He ordered him to bring in the snow-water for drinking, and, with other services, to put the kow sledge on top of the igloo when it was necessary to keep it from the dogs. The weak state of the invalid, with the renewed feeling that he was in the hands of a savage, induced him to submit to these orders. He says in his notes of the day, " I had great reason at times to shoot the savage down on the spot, and know not how long it may be before I shall have to do so terrible an act to save my own dear life." But he more wisely reserved his punishment until they should reach the ships. narch, 1867.] Thc Ncw Disappointment 309 E-nu-men and Oot-pik caught the same spirit, so far as to make inexcusable delays ; and these were increased by the usual experi- ences of gales which bound Hall a day or more at a time, and to- ward the last of the journey, by the complete giving-out of the how sledge, on the temperature rising to 1G°. All the dogs were then attached to the large sledge in the midst of a furious snow-drift. They were showing their faintness for want of food by their tails standing straight out, instead of curling over their backs. As the result of all these causes of delay, the speed was never more than three miles per hour, and generally less. On the 24th, however, they had struck the land, from which their course was nearly direct to the head of the bay ; on the 31st, they again sighted the ships. This journey for dogs had cost Hall fifty-two more days of pre- cious time, during which his sufferings appear to have been borne witli his usual fortitude. He now found that his proposed journey to King William's Land was again utterly arrested. Two months before, when he had his men seemingly secured, the captains' plea had been that they eould not spare the dogs. He had now returned from Ig-loo-lik with his own full team; but the whaling season is open, and he is behind time; they cannot spare a man. Hall could punish Ou-e-Ia, as he now did, by seizing all his dogs and holding them until he had given penitent pledges for future good conduct. But it is not surprising that for a number of days he lay sick and almost hopeless in his igloo. His feelings, however, and his relations to the masters of tlie vessels will be best learned from the following letter, addressed to one of them at this time : My Snow House Encampment, Repulse Bay, April 12, 1867. My Dear Sir : Your uote of this date, soliciting my company on board your vessel to tea tliis evening, bas been received. I thank you lor this kindly 310 Hairs Letter Ahout the Men. [Appii, iser. request, for by it I judge, if my heart is not amiss, that you did not really intend to wound my feelings, and do me and the cause I represent the injustice you did on board the Glacier last Friday evening. Allow me to state that I am not aware of ever having entertained for a moment any thought to injure your feel- ings in any way. The very nature of the mission to which I have devoted the last seven years of my life has led me to do all in. my power to get to King Will- iam's Land and its neighboring lands as soon as possible, and, therefore, I have never swerved from this princix^le, which has been to do all in my power to live on good terms with every man, that I might have his co-operation in accomplish- ing the end I have in view, to wit, the rescue of some survivor or survivors of Sir John Franklin's Expedition, whom I have believed might still be living, and that I might recover some of the journals of that expedition, and otherwise gain most important information relating to the fate of all the missing ones. Obstacle after obstacle has been before me, but perseverance has overcome them all except the last. I have done all, as now seemeth to me, that I could do to remove it. How sorrowfully disa])pointed will the noble-hearted Mr. Grinnell be, and the thousands of good hearts of our countiymen, and of other portions of the civilized world, when they find that I haA^e been obliged to turn back just when I should, and might well, push on, and quickly tinish up the work before me ! Believe me, captain, when I tell you that I feel in my own heart that with the renewal of your warm co-operation at once, or in a very few days, I and the previously-organized sledge party can this spring perform my purposed sledge journey in season to be back here the latter part of June ; and that by your thus doing there will be no occasion for organizing another party of like kind here- after. If you knew how deeply I regret the withdrawal of your helping hand, just at the moment when, as I feel, it is most needed, I am sure you would ex- tend it again without a moment's delay. I pray you consider this whole matter, not as mine alone, but as Mr. Grinnell's, and the thousands who have their eyes upon me, and feel a deep interest in all that pertains to Sir John Franklin's lost expedition. Excuse me, captain, if I am not there to tea, for really I feel so overwhelmed in grief at my disappointment in not making the sledge journey for which I have so long been i)reparing, tliat I am sure I could not contribute one jot to any one's social enjoyment. Most respectfully, C. F. HALL. HAPTER JOURNEY TO CAPE WEYNTON AND WINTER OF 18G8. CHAPTER XI. Anxiety for the safety of the cache made in 186G — Hall's party sets out to visit it, May 1 — Route by Gibson's Cove, Walrus Island, and Iwillik to Christie Lake — Sails raised on the sled — Snow-blindness— Miles Lake reached — Strange Innuits seen — The Sea of Ak-koo-lee and Point Hargrave reached — Expedients to hurry UP THE dogs — Cape Weynton reached — The cache changed — Return to Beacon Hill — A week's musk-ox hunt— Survey of Ships Harbor Islands — Native supersti- tion — Hall's purchase of supplies — Capture of a walrus — The hiring of five white men— Winter quarters. No new journey now to King William's Land! In addition to this extreme disappointment, there came upon Hall the uncomfortable remembrance of the deposit of provisions made at Cape Weynton, a twelvemonth before, which he had so fondly hoped would serve him on going out again at this very time. The safety of the cache, which had never been a certainty, now became a matter of deep concern from the accounts received from the whalers of the conduct of the Pelly Bay natives, who had been laying their hands on many small articles belonging to the ships, and even on the tents left on shore. There was reason, therefore, to apprehend that on their return home, on which the tribe had now set out, they would destroy this advance deposit, which otherwise would be so much gain whenever Hall could renew his journey. He must go now to the Cape. Expecting to be absent not longer than twelve days, he gained 31.3 314 Sledge Trip to Cape Weynton. riway, iser. the consent of the captains to take Frank Leonard and Peter Bayne, of the Ansell Gibbs; and Silas Norton, of the Concordia; and with these and his own two Eskimos, left Ships Harbor Islands May 1. He had a team of nineteen dogs for a large sled, the full load on which weighed 1,700 pounds; several Innuit friends assisted in loading up and starting it. Over the smooth sea-ice their first advance averaged two and a half miles per hour. Passing next over two miles of rough ice before entering Gibson's Cove, at noon they arrived at Walrus Island; at 2 p. m. they were opposite Iwillik ; and at 10 p. m. com- pleted their first igloo. The keen appetite of travel was satisfied by a hearty meal of raw deer-meat, coffee, and bread, with rank whale- blubber for butter; and the dogs had a small meal to prevent their running back to the islands. The travel through the early part of the next day was under sail hoisted on the sled to assist the dogs, until the wind died away and the sun came out. The sails were then furled and the sled re-shod. Niffht found them under a hig-h bluff hill on the east side of Christie Lake, the choice of which spot was made in the expectation that water could be obtained by removing some of the snow from the huge bank. In this the party were not disappointed. The next day they were housed by a gale from the north-north- west, which had set in on the night previous, accompanied by flying snow so thick that one could not see an arm's length, nor visit the water-supply; on digging through the snow, however, Ebierbing found water within the encampment. All hands then turned out and built a tooksoo (outer igloo) to protect the dogs, and "preserve their fat for working service." When the gale broke, the carcass of an old Polar bear, which had been brought along for them, was chopped up and may, 1867.1 Sledge Trip to Cape Wcynton. 315 distributed. In the evening the dome of the igloo was built up higher, as it was beginning to come down. On the 4th, Ebierbing and Norton were painfully affected with snow-blindness, and again a strong breeze with flying drift prevailed; but at 1.40 p. m. the extreme end of Christie Lake was reached, and here, at the '' Lower Narrows," a band of sixteen deer was seen; this excited the dogs to increased speed. At 2.55, the party crossed the very short portage between Dr. Rae's One-mile Lake and his Six-mile Lake, from the northwest end of which last they passed on to a pond, and at the end of the next half hour descended the 100-foot bank spoken of by Rae, and made their third igloo on Miles Lake. On the portage between the lakes, a long line of stones was found, set up on a sharp ridge of rocks, to frighten the deer and force them into a particular route. During the day, Norton, who was leading the party, had sud- denly halted his team on discovering what seemed to him the foot- prints of a man; they were only some of nature's freaks with the snow. The travel had averaged two and a half miles per hour, although the snow was quite deep, and not hardened bv the northward or westerly gales. The snow-blindness of Ebierbing and of Frank and Norton increased ; yet the journey was resumed after having made, for use on the return trip, a deposit of one-third of the provis- ions under the snow bed-platform of the hut which they now left. Strange Innuits were here discovered crossing Miles Lake, and coming at first directly toward Hall while loading up his sledge. They proved to be ^^Koong-ou-e-lik" ("Mind-your-own-business") and the big son of Too-shoo-art-thar-i-u^ who, with three dogs, were drawing a musk-ox skin filled with the beef The hours from midnijrht to 3 a. m. were spent in endeavoring to get again upon the tracks of these natives, 31 G Snow-hlind. (""ay, is«r. in consequence of the loss of four dogs which had straj-ed off, scenting their musk-ox meat Much hindered by the thickly-faUing snow, Hall and Peter Bayne succeeded in recovering the dogs at the igloos where the Pelly Ba}^ men were sleeping. No one of these showed his head, but various stolen articles were observed lying outside of the hut. Half an hour later, an advance was again made toward the sea of Ak-koo-lee on the same route which had been followed in 1866. During the day Frank and Norton, blindfolded, sometimes rode upon the sledge, at others walked behind, resting upon it; at 6.35 p. m., the party halted on the bed of a river. Thier next igloo, on the 6th, was made at 10.15 a. m., the travel having been made during the night to prevent snow-blindness. At 10 p. m. of the same day, again starting out, they had the misfortune to run off a steep bank 50 feet high, which threw all into consternation, and nearly broke their necks. The acci- dent, however, delayed them but ten minutes. On the 7th, they arrived on the ice of Ak-koo-lee, and at 4.25 a. ni. Point Hargrave was reached. Ascending the heights of this point, Hall endeavored with his telescope to ascertain the possibility of push- ing out from the land, but found the appearance of the ice to be entirely too rough for sledging ; he was restricted to his old route on the ice-foot. The water carried in the fur-covered keg for re-icing the sled-runners failed, and the keg itself was soon afterward unfortu- nately lost from the sled. No one had ridden on the march of this day except the faithful cook, Too-koo-li-too, whose occupation allowed her little sleep at night. At 8.30 a. m., the fifth igloo was made at the west point of Cape Lady Pelly. At 4 p. m.. May 9, Hall was delighted to see by the aid of his glass, the rock beside which were deposited the greater part of the May, 1867.] Enticements for Hungry Dogs. 317 stores placed' there in 1866. At noon he had with great difficulty taken an "indifferent observation" of the sun, which gave for his lati- tude 67° 50' N. ; a gale with snow had prevailed during the preced- ing twent3^-four hours. His anxiety to complete this journey and set at rest the question of the safety of the cache will be inferred from such incidents as the following: His "medicine" (treatment?) for the snow-blind — i. e., tying up their eyes — had proved a charming success. He polished the icing of his sled-runners by rubbing it on with his bare hands, and found that after the first trial he could by himself easily draw Too-koo-li-too, Frank, Silas, and Peter ; all tliree seated upon a full load. To hurry up the tired and hungry dogs he had adopted several expedients ; among these, sending some of the men ahead, who, with a deer-bone and knife, at one time made strokes as though cutting off meat, and at another cut up small pieces of his Ig-loo-lik sledge and threw them into the air now and then ahead, letting the dogs see that the pieces were kow. This experiment succeeded even in the case of a fagged-out animal in the rear when he was transferred to the front ; the poor creature's efforts to get at the much-desired meat were a great incentive to his followers. These devices were practiced at a time when the weather was very thick. At 11.10 p. m., he found himself by the side of the rock near which, in the previous spring, he had erected a little pile of stones represent- ing Faith, Hope, and Charity, and, to his great satisfaction, on ham- mering loose the stones from his cache, he discovered that all had been unmolested except that a fox had eaten a portion of the ook- gook skin which covered the trunk, and that Arctic mice had been busily nibbling at his tent. At midnight, having loaded the sledge with all the stores of the cache, he returned to his i/7/00, when the 318 ■ The Deposit Changed. [May, iser. whole party rested until 5 p. m. of the next day. The icing on the sled-runners had proved so solid on the night previous, as to be unin- jured even when the dogs were flying over the rocks of the Cape — or blviff, as he thinks this point should rather be named, as "it is no cape at all, but simply a little hill rising above the low snow-clad coast." Hall could not forget the necessity of having a cache certainly awaiting him on the first renewed advance which he could make to- ward King William's Land, ^t marks an indomitable will and faith in his final success that, although disappointed in the three preceding years, he should again deposit at a distance from him, such valuable stores to await the issues of a fourth twelve month. His purpose at this date was to leave the greater part of the stores at the first place on the coast where he could find loose stones to cover them ; he felt satisfied they would be safer at such a place than at tlie Cape, for he had learned that his apprehensions of the Pelly Bay men were well grounded. Happily he found a spot seemingly every way suited for the purpose. His notes, with their usual precision, record this location of the deposit: "Cape Weynton, N. 62° E. (by compass) : Range of hills in which deposit was made running S. 45° E. and N. 45° W. : Deposit made near the face of hill, thirty-three of my paces from a little pile of stones on top of a rock." The Return Journey occupied, in all, the days from lip. m.. May 10, to 11 p. m.. May 17. Hall arrived at Beacon Hill at 6.30 a. m. of the 17th, and at Ships Harbor Islands at the date last named. The notes of this journey, although they record the usual details, present no very special items of interest, except the appearance of a much May, 1867.1 Betum to Bcttcon Hill. 319 swifter and more comfortable advance than on the outward trip. The state of the weather, the condition of the ice, and the hghtened sled were all in favor of the return. At the igloo where, on his journey out. Hall had recovered his straying dogs and found the scattered articles and the Pelly Bay men, he had again a sight of these natives, and purchased from them some musk-ox meat. Game had been scarce, and the dogs more than once unusually hungry. The deposit made at their third igloo in going up, they now found ripped up by the wolves, and the musk-ox meat was all gone. At Beacon Hill, Frank, (whom Hall the least excuses as his " lieutenant and the re- sponsible party"), together with Norton and Peter, left him and his two Eskimos to get forward to Ships Harbor Island as best they could. Captains Potter and White, with their usual courtesy, sent out to Beacon Hill an invitation to breakfast with them on board ship, where he found himself again comfortably at home. After a week's rest from this trip, he started off on a musk-ox hunt. His party was made up of Captains Kilmer and Baker, with seven native men and Too-koo-li-too. The hunting-grounds were above Miles Lake ; the outward journey and return made 220 miles of travel. Forty musk-cattle were seen and a large number of deer, as well as of marmots. Twenty-seven musk-oxen, seven deer, and five marmots were killed, and the party drove home well satisfied with their three fully-laden sledges, drawn by forty dogs. They had been absent from the ships eight days, during part of which Captain Kil- mer had been affected with snow-blindness, making his journey by walking at times behind the sledge, and at others, riding on it, but still doing good work on the hunt. No notes are to be found of Hall's occupations during the first 320 Fragmentary Notes. [June, iser. nineteen days of June ; and the same remark is, unfortunately, true in regard to a large part of the remainder of the year. The record, therefore, which closes this chapter, being made up in part from frag- mentary memoranda, will necessarily be brief. It has not been found possible to determine whether he intermitted writing his jour- nals, or whether they were written and afterward lost. The precis- ion with which he had up to this time jotted down the minutest details of his work and its surroundings, induces the belief that he must have written out his notes of the occurrences of the long period from June to February of the next year. On the other hand, it were not a forced inference which might be drawn from his fearful disappointments in the preceding spring, that he did not renew the journalizing which had so often heavily tasked his energies and health. But, again, it is to be remarked that thus far the utmost care appears to have been taken by him of every paper and book ; deposits of these being made when moving from place to place, the bearings of which deposits were noted and put into the hands of faithful persons who might find and take to the United States an account of what work he had done, should his own life fail ; and, still further, that, when on a subsequent sledge journey, a few of his notes were scattered by tlie wind, he carefully recorded the fact. The following are the chief incidents occurring witliin the summer months, which have been found within the occasional jour- nalizing seemingly practiced. Returning from the musk-ox hunt, lie took up his residence on one of the islands near the ships, which were eagerly looking for tlieir release from the ice ; and during the latter part of the month he was again busy in surveying, making observations, and studying his Arctic books. From prominent points he daily took sextant angles, meas- \^ H %■• wq-ioH o? »^vz>^;^ < tn P o cq p: I— I 7} / July, i86r.] Visits Between Ship and Shore 321 ured his base-lines, lace where the Furj' was wrecked, and where, even so late as 1859, an immense stock of pre- march, 186S.) Preparations for Visiting the Strait. 335 served vegetables, soups, tobacco, sugar, flour, «&c., still remained (a much larger supply than could be found at many of the Hudson's Bay trading-posts) ; besides, the people would have been in the direct road of searching parties or whalers. The distance to Fury Beach from where the ships were abandoned, roughly measured, is, as nearly as possible, the same as that between the ships and the true mouth of the Great Fish Eiver, or about two hundred and ten geographical miles in a straight line. Had the retreat upon Fury Beach been resolved upon, the necessity for hauling heavy boats would have been avoided, for during the previous season (that of 1847) a small sledge party might have been dispatched thither to ascertain whether the provisions and boats at the depot were safe and available. The successful performance of such a journey should not have been difficult for an expedition consisting of 130 men, who, in the record found in 1859 by McClintock, were reported all well in the spring of 1847. [In connection with these views of Rae, and in recording Hall's enthusiastic expectations, with the repeated and uniform accounts given to him of some white men having been seen on the peninsula later than 1854 (together with their monument and tenting-place, which he did discover), the questions at this point of the Narra- tive seem iiTepressible ; — " Is it possible that some of Franklin's men did make their way eastward to Melville Peninsula?" Will the expedition of 1878 from New York, under Schwatka, or some future explorer lighting on a cairn, ever give the world some answer to this inquiry f for it seems by no means certain that all of the 105 remained under Crozier's leadership toward Back's River. Will the Franklin Records ever be recovered for England and for the world f] During the first three weeks of March, Hall busied himself in making his preparations. After providing for the four white men whom he would leave at the encampment at Talloon, he made his usual deposit of records and stores. An epidemic had again visited the dogs, and his own team had been reduced from twenty-three to eight. Some having died from the disease, he had killed others \o 336 The Dog Disease. [March, ises. prevent its spread. He succeeded, however, in securing five from the Innuits, the only dogs except two or three that remained alive about the hay* In return for the information he had just received and for other past services, he added useful articles to the compensation which he gave for these dogs. On the 23d, he left his encampment, having for his companions Frank Lailor, Papa and his wife and little child, Ebierbing, and Too- koo-li-too. His provision-list was made up of — bread, 308 pounds ; pemmican, 252 pounds; raw venison, 100 pounds; pork, 17 pounds; sugar, 25 pounds ; coffee and tea, 10 pounds; molasses, 39 pounds; tobacco, 13^ pounds; seal-blubber, 40 pounds, Ook-gooh oil, 50 pounds, partly for fuel ; — walrus-hide, 463 pounds, and whale-tongue, 266 pounds, for dog -food. Expecting to meet his old friends at Ig- loo-lik he counted on renewing his supplies at that place. His list of articles for barter and for presents included 50 knives; * The peculiar nature of the Eskimo dog disease was closely noted in the experience of the English Expedition of 1875. The following is taken from the report of Fleet-Surgeon B. Ninnis. (Parliamentary Paper, C. 2176, 1878) : "Twenty-live apparently healthy dogs were emharked on board ship in the middle of July, 1875. The number subsequently increased to twenty-seven by the addition of two young ones. We were given to understand that feeding twice a week was amply sufficient ; that the worst possible personal treatment was too good for them, and meat in any stage of decomposition a perfect luxury to their fastidious palates. " Seven and twenty animals, confined to a space which the utmost attention was scarcely sufficient to keep habitable, constantly quarreling and fighting for dear life, exposed to sun, dew, snow, and wet generally, and without a chance of a run ashore — it was not to bo won- dered at that they began to show signs of disease. The first attacked was a young female twenty-five days on board, and she had a fit and died iu thirteen days. Others became attacked. One was summarily shot ; one ran away, and Was seen no more; two were accidentally drowned ; seven died from the disease ; six recovered ; one died mad. " Of the whole number, twelve only were under medical treatment; one had rabies and died; one so far recovered as to have two litters of pups, and then died ten months after her first fit and two or three days after her last Utter ; two fell into the water when in fits and were drowned ; two died notwithstanding everything that was done to cure them, and six recovered and were landed at Disco. » » » The treatment found most beneficial was calomel, fol- lowed in some cases by croton-oil and solution of morphia, the best of water, and good food. They were not kicked or cuffed, and thoy behaved as sociably and decorously as if brought up in a cottage." April, IS6S.1 Papa Loses HaWs Notes. 837 500 percussion-caps; a liberal supply of ball, powder, and shot; 1,500 needles, and 80 thimbles, besides combs, looking-glasses, buttons, beads, brass rings, fish-hooks, and files, &c. The experience of his visit of the previous year to Ig-loo-lik had taught him something of the value set upon the smallest of these articles, even upon scraps of iron and wood. On arriving at the head of Haviland Bay, he crossed the land, taking nearly the same route with that followed the year before, and on the 30th made his seventh igloo of the journey on a lakelet just above Lyon's Inlet. While here engaged chiseling a hole through the ice, he had the lamentable misfortune to see Papa flying in full chase after some of his freshly- written notes, which, on unloading the sledge, had been suddenly swept out of their fur-cover by a furious blast of the gale. Papa returned in three-quarters of an hour ; but, after chasing the books over the lake and beyond the rising ground, he had lost sight of the jottings made since- leaving Talloon. The flying drift buried them forever. When starting on the second day following, bridle-drags were prepared for the sledges, as they had now to descend a steep hill into a river-bed ; a moment after. Papa ran the sled Erebus upon the point of a sharp rock which knocked off some of the mossing, whereupon he angrily got a large stone and pounded the point to powder. There was, however, a delay of but five minutes. On the 2d, they reached Fox Channel, and made their tenth igloo at Oo-soo-ark-u; and here Hall remained one da)^ to please his companions. He took observations for position, and left a deposit of 103 pounds of bread and ()4 pounds of pemmican for his return journey. In consequence of heavy and rough ice met with on the 4th they struck ofl'shore, and, S. Ex. 37 22 338 Reception at the Oo-glit Islands. iaphi, isss. when reaching the latitude of the north end of Am-i-toke, turned to the westward and encamped near it. They met fresh foot-prints seem- ingly of two men and a dog, and supposed that the men had been wal- rusing at the north on the drift-ice, which, being carried away had brought them to this point before they had a chance of gaining the firm ice. On the 6th of April, the thirteenth igloo was built at a point called by the Innuits King-me-toke-big, not far from the Oo-glit Islands, and the day following, when within a short drive from these islands, an Innuit who had been out all night on his watch, came up to them with his full sealing-gear. He proved to be an old man Avhom Hall had never before seen, but he gave some information as to the number of natives on the islands, and at Ping-it-ka-lik and Ig-loo-lik. Coming to the islands, Hall's party saw standing on the hill-top a row of Innuits Avatching tliem; Papa fired off his gun, and the old man, Too-Ioo-arch-oo, cried out to them at the top of his voice, " Mitter Hall, Mitter Hall !" llie natives of the village, when they caught the words, answered with loud cries, set to dancing, and offered as warm a recep- tion as on the previous year. When they crowded into the quickly- built igloo, they were at once met with inquiries as to the accounts of the white men said to have been seen on the Strait. Hall remained at these islands from the 7th to the 16th of the month, partly to obtain supplies of walrus-meat for the continuance of his journey, but chiefly to get from the natives all further information he possibly could, for or against the statements he had received. On the journey he had sprained his left leg while climbing over the rough ice, and this confined him to his bed for several days. While Ebier- bing went to Ig-loo-lik for dog-food, the natives employed Hall's dogs in their own service, tlieir stock having nearly all been swept away by April, i8t>8.j Conversations about the White Men. 339 disease A large number of visitors came around him, the villao-e since his arrival having swelled its population to the number of one hundred. After questioning many of the people, at first separately and then at a time when quite a party were gathered in his igloo, he was further strengthened in his belief of what he had heard about the white men seen on the southern shores of the Strait. He seems to have really expected that he would soon find some of Franklin's men still alive. The details of his conversations were written out with great care in a full journal, which was irrecoverably lost in some unaccountable way just before his setting out on the Polaris Expedition of 1871. From a partial copy of this journal, made at his request by his friend Mr. J. J. Copp, of Groton, Conn., the notes have been taken which are to be found in Paper "B" of Appendix IV. This copy, made by Mr. Copp in books "A" and " B " especially for the use of Lady Franklin, was sent over to that estimable lady just before Hall left the United States on his last ill-fated voyage. Indorsed by him ''to be retained by her in trust for a time," it has been courteously returned by her niece. Miss Sophia Cracroft, for use in the preparation of this Narrative. Some of the striking points in these conversations, which increased Hall's enthusiasm, and in his judgment justified him in prosecuting this journey, will be found in Appendix named The story may be summed up in brief as follows: Although he could not meet with Kia, for he had been killed by a walrus, he learned from Koo-loo-a, a native whom he found to be trustworthy, that when he had been hunt- ing all around the country between Garry Bay and the northwest cape of Melville Peninsula, he had seen an lu-nook-shoo (a monument) 340 The Clothing and Walk of the Men Seen. [Aprii, ises. on the south side of a river emptying into a bay near the Cape Ellice of Dr. Rae, and a little west of this a cache of stones, wliich had been opened and its stones thrown aside. It showed freshness, and was without a sign of meat having been deposited there. Koo-loo-a did not think an Innuit had built it, or that any native before his visit had ever gone up so far from Garry Bay. He had been witli Kia when the latter saw the strange man. The man had a cap on his liead, separate from his overcoat, which had a hood. Kia had kept the stranger in sight for some time, often hiding himself behind the rocks ; he had also then heard the discharge of a gun. From the time that Kia first gave this account to Koo-loo-a^ it had been believed by all the Innuits in the region of the Oo-glit Islands, and they all now expressed to Hall their confidence in it. Besides such reports, others also of as strange a character were offered — of strangers having been seen in places nearer to Ig-loo-lik, and of sounds having been repeatedly heard like those from the dis- charge of a gun, and at places too far from the ice to have been the result of the ice cracking. The strangers had at first been taken for Et-Jcer-lin (Indians), the apprehension always entertained by Innuits in regard to whom had, at the times when the white men were seen, so frightened them, that, at every appearance, their families had been removed immediately from the place. This was the invariable testi- mony, as was also the description of the clothing worn and of the foot- prints examined after the strangers passed by. They were long and very narrow in the middle, with deep places at the heel. The tread of the footsteps was outward Hall could not help connecting in mind the story of the ship's mast and beam on the shores of Pelly Bay, the monument spoken of April, 1868.] From the Oo-glit Islands to Crosier Biver. 341 by See-ptmg-er, and the one now seeming to exist on the north shores of the Strait, as links in connection with the strange appearances of the men, their dress, and footsteps. Some of Franklin's men must, he thought, have crossed over eastward to Parry's old region in the for- lorn hope of reaching, perhaps, Cumberland Inlet and being rescued by some vessel from Old England ; and they might be still alive, for the last date of these stories was 1 864. Leaving the islands early on the 1 6th, with Koo-loo-a as a trust- worthy guide, he passed by Ping-it-ka-lik, crossed from that place, over land so level and smooth, that it was difficult to tell it was not a lake, and made his first new igloo on Hooper Inlet, about half a mile from shore. The day following, making a fair progress across the inlet, he came to an old deserted igloo, in which a dead fox was found. Koo-loo-a built up a pillar of snow, on the top of which he left the animal erect, its tail standing straight out and two of its legs in the position for walking, in which they had been found. Tracks of the wolf, the deer, the fox, and of partridges were seen. Near the islands, at the head of the inlet, tidal action was seen to have made the ice very rough. Their next igloo was built on Quilliam Creek, at the early hour of 2 a. m. of the 17th. From the head of this creek, they en- deavored to shorten their route to the west branch of Crozier Eiver, but the roughness of the land, compelling them to make zigzag courses, prevented any gain of time. Koo-loo-a pointed out on the southern side of the river a place where e-ker-lu (salmon) abound, and said that Parry had caught many there at his tenting-place. Upon Crozier River they passed through a magnificent gorge from 50 to 75 feet in width, to avoid some impassable snow-drifts in 342 Grinnell Lake and Brevoort River. [April, isos. which they put on their rue-raddles, (harness), helping the clogs up a ^'ery steep hill, and then descending swiftl}- into the river-bed ; and after fur- ther delays among the rough rocks which pushed up through the ice, at 6.H0 p. m. they built an igloo on the river. Hall immediately climbed a high peak in the range of mountains before him, from which he had a fine view of the surrounding country. On the east was an extensive plain ; on the north, the high land about Hooper Inlet ; and southward and westward, mountains after mountains rose in confused masses : a pass seemed to open itself about ten miles to the south. On the 19th, the travel up the river was continued as far as the lake from which it flows, after riding on the smooth surface of which more than five hours they built their fourth igloo Hall named the lakelet Grinnell Lake ; during the night the cracking of the ice on it sounded like continuous artillery. Not a sign of life had been seen since leaving Quilliam Creek ; and Koo-loo-a told Hall that no other Innuit knew this route, which he had discovered when hunting. At noon of the next day, on the western end of Grinnell Lake, they found a large open pool with no anchor-ice on its bottom rock. Salmon were swinmfing in it. To the little stream which ran from this lake Hall gave the name of Brevoort River. A lakelet into which it expanded being found to be covered with water with nuich thin ice over it, a passage was made over the land until the river was again entered, when the traveling became very fatiguing through the soft snow, which was melting under the southerly winds. Hall's limb was now so painful as to compel him to ride nearly all the time, and he could make but few observations ; but his next igloo was made near the spot where Koo-loo-n " saAv the tracks of white men and heard the report of a gun more than thirteen years before." The day follow- April, 1868.] Liscovery of ''New Island^ 343 ing they came to a frozen cascade, 15 feet in height, where the river seemed to have cut its way through solid granite 60 feet wide and 25 feet high, and a few hours afterward they passed out upon the bay, and built their sixth igloo on the ice of the sea of Ak-koo-lee, lat. 69^ 47'.5. The next day was one of rest for the lunuits, who were suffering from snow-blindness. Hall made for them a w^ash of sugar of lead and laudanum. From a piece of driftwood ifoo- loo-a made eye-shades. In company with Frank Lailor, Hall looked carefully from the to]3 of Cape Englefield for any signs of white men, but could see none ; he made his own monument on the Cape— a pile of three large . snow-goggles. stones, the lowest resting on his clay pipe. A hawk was seen, and tracks of deer, of bears, and ermine were numerous ; on the ice were many regular paths worn in the snow by the bears, but no animal showed himself to the travelers The jumps of the little ermine in the snow showed that they had been full six feet each. Early on the 23d, most of the stores were deposited in an igloo, over which "a flag was left swinging in the wind to keep off the bears," when the whole company started down the coast to visit the monu- ment described by Koo-loo-a; but, on his being taken sick, the visit was arrested for that day. Out on the sea was a long line of fog, showing itself to the south as far as the eye could follow it Koo-loo-a said there was open water there all winter, and that many walrus were caught there. Land now discovered by Hall west-northwest from Cape Englefield proved to be a long low island. Koo-loo-a said that bears were often killed on it while wintering under the snow. Of this discovery his little note-book of the evening says: "On 344 The Monument Found. [April, 1868. getting to-day to the heights of land overlooking New Bay, Parry Bay, Cape Crozier, and Fury and Hecla Straits, the sight of a New Long Island to the westward, so carried me away that I was sweeping to the right and left with my glass before I again had a thought of monuments or other traces of the lost ones." On the 24th, the search was made for the monument and cache. The monument was found and the place of the cache pointed out, but the latter was covered hy a huge hank of snow. Hall thus describes the location of the monument : " On either side of the plain on which it stands is a river, and hills of delta are northeast of it. It is 100 feet above the sea, and near a hill upon the south side of the plain. The hill looks not unlike an inverted whale-boat when seen at a little dis- tance from the northwest." While he made a sketch of the monument, Frank Lailor, with an iron snow-knife, tried to cut down through the bank to the cache, but found the snow as hard as ice. To leave nothing undone to find the buried cache-stones. Hall now moved down and built his igloo near it, and on the 25th renewed with Frank Lailor, with some assistance from Ebierbing who was suffering with rheumatism, the severe work of cutting down into the snow-bank. They all labored hard for many hours, cutting down to the depth of 15 feet with their iron snow-knives, until, as Ebierbing has lately said, " they sweated in the cold from head to foot." But it was impossible to find the cache. MONUMENT FOUND BY HALL. April, 1868.1 A - Tenting- Place of White Men. 345 Too-koo-li-too and Ebierbing, about tlie same time, found two tenting-places which presented strong contrasts. The first tent, the traces of which Too-koo-h-too called to them to observe, liad been ob- long, as shown by four stones, weighing each from 25 to 35 pounds, used to hold down its corners ; rows of smaller stones were in the po- sitions where they had served to secure the sides. The dimensions of c^ ' V^-r^' hall's sketch of the coast-line near the monument. the tent had been 9 feet by 6. Hall's Innuit companions assured him that white men must have built it. An Innuit tenting-place close by, showed the unquestionable marks of its builders by its stones being found arranged in their invariably circular form. 346 HalVs Position Higher than Mae's Highest. [Aphi, issh. Tlie rough notes of the two days of this visit are worth a hteral transcribing, and are here given, omitting only Hall's astronomical observations, and some sketches of less importance than those shown by the cuts. The spot visited had not been reached by any previous Arctic explorer. Parry's officers were not on this western side of the peninsula, and Dr. Rae's highest point was 69° 5' 85" N. (Rae's Narra- tive, p. 128). And it maybe justly remarked here that it is to be regretted that Hall's visit should have been recently discredited, and this before his full statements could be published. The latitude of his encampment here wns 69° 47' 5" N., long. 85° 15' W. Literal Copy of SaWs Notes. Apkil 24. — Koo-Joo-a requested to-day that I would take a look witli my si^y-glass ill a certain direction, after we bad tramped four liours over kill, lake, raAane, and tlirough deep snows, I looked, and sighted a monument above the snow. Koo-looa and Frank took a look through the spy-glass, the former declaring that the monument he saw was at the head of a bay not then in sight. Dr. Eae could not possibly have made this monument and cache, for they both belong together; the latter covered with a deep drift every winter, and when Eae was at Cape Crozier in May, 1847, the bank of snow must have been as dee]^ and hard as the one now there. Besides, Dr. Eae's track-chart does not show that lie visited the southeast angle of l*arry Bay. To-morrow morning, 1 remove Avith my party to the monument. Koo-loo-a told Hannah that when he first saw this monument thirteen years before, it was then fresh, and now looks old. When he found it and the cache- stones under the bank, he told all the Innuits of his strange discovery. No lii- nuit could have made it. A hole was dug out of the rocks and something de- posited in it. Afterward, the stones covering the cache were thrown all in a pile on one side, and the deposit, whatever it was, taken out. April 25.-- Tbis morning we leave our seventh iyloo here and move down to the monument, to make all investigations possible relating to it, and try our best to find Ihe cache-stones buried in a huge snow-bank that lies over the steep bank of ground running alongside of the i)laiii on the margin of which is the monument. April, ises.i Rough Notes of the 24:th-26th. 347 8 a. m. — Passing along frem seventh encampment toward Cape Crozier, the monument is distinctly ^nsible Avith the glass. I and Frank commenced at once with our snow-shovels to cut out snow-blocks from the heavy bank just west of the monument in search of the cache-stones. Koo-loo a, from his remembrance of the situation of the monument and cache-stones, has shown us where to dig. 10.5 a. m. — Hannah has found the tenting-place of white men — an oblong tent and four fresh upturned stones, one at each corner, to make fast the lines of the tent ; the stones show an age since turned up out of their bed the same as monument stones. 10.30. — Joe, in searching around, has found another tenting-place. Frank and myself were busy raising blocks when Joe called, and then we all ran where he was, and have just made our investigations. These stones are in a circular form, and evidently the tenting-place of Innuits within ten to fifteen years. Hannah said if a fire-place could be found within the tent-circle then they were Innuit tenting places, and at last a fire-place was found within one of the circles — black on the back of the fire-place; a stone that had formed one side was loos- ened and turned up by Hannah and found black with smoke. Koo-loo-a found a large stone in proper position for holding the line keeping up the entrance to the tent; as Ig-loo-lik people make their tents. Joe, Hannah, and Koo-loo-a are sure the ohlong-shaped tenting-place and the stones at the corners and outside row of small stones tell the truth, that Innuits never did that work. The contrast particularly striking between the tenting-place of the whites and that of the natives. A small stump of a tree found in the circle of an Innuit tenting-place, and not decayed, but white with age, showed hard life among the ice of the sea of Ak-koo-lee. Evening notes. — AU day we have been hard at work cutting out snow- blocks in search of the cache-stones, but in vain. One would be greatly de- lighted to see the excavations and upturned blocks all around made in searching for lost cache stones. # # * 2(Sth. — Joe and Hannah, being well acquainted with Avhite men's ways, are as certain as is Koo-loo-a that white men had an encampment here. Having with them provisions for two days only. Hall's party were forced to return to their sixth igloo First, liowever, he took down the monument stone by stone, yet without finding- any record or sign to tell with more certainty who had built it. Koo-Joo-a " was 348 Survey of the Northwest Coast. [April, ises. the most disappointed one of the party, for he expressed honest fears that he would be thought to have told a falsehood." Yet his charac- ter for entire truthfulness had been and still remained unquestioned ; Hall says he had previously " sharply -tested this man." He left the spot with the assurance that his search for the evidence of white men's having lived a struggling life in those regions had not been in vain, for they had found a monument and tenting-place made by WHITE MEN. From astronomical observations and compass-bearings he now determined the coast-line between Cape Englefield the most western point of the Strait sighted by Parry, and Cape Crozier the most northern reached by E.ae in 1847; by which survey he may be justly said to have filled up this broken line of the Admiralty chart for the northwestern part of Melville Peninsula at and below the western outlets of Fury and Hecla Strait. This was, at least, a liberal compensation for the disappointment keenly felt on leaving the spot without rec- ords or closer traces of white men. Just before again reaching their igloo^ Koo-loo-d!s sharp eyes spied a hole in it, and as the tracks of a wolverine had been already seen, alarm was taken for the safety of their provisions On coming nearer, walrus-hide, meat, and blubber were seen scattered here and there on the ice ; but on Hall's breaking open the door, he found that the ani- mal had but scratched two or three little holes through the snow-plat- form and dragged out the articles without carrying them into its hole. A delay of one day more would probably have cost the party the loss of all their food. Not satisfied to give up the search for Franklin's men whom he May, ises.j VisU to AmJieTst Island. 349 still believed that he might find yet living, he next examined the southern shores of the Strait, and endeavored to cross to the northern coast, hoping also to make some geographical determinations there. The exceeding roughness of the ice permitted him to advance on foot only, with one companion and one dog. From the main island of a group in the mouth of the Strait he took additional observations, bearings, and sextant angles, to fix the position of the new island to the northwest of Cape Englefield On the south side of the islet on which he stood, the rock appeared to have been polished to the height of 50 feet above the sea by the moving ice-masses. The whole strait was filled with rugged ice, pack and old floe, some of the old floe pieces a mile square; one small unbroken floe was plainly of the formation of the year previous. Old floes abounded, full of hills, val- leys, and lakes, nearly all denuded of snow, and covered by huge bergy pieces thrown up by pressure in the open season. The Innuits said that occasionally there is a year in which the straits are entirely clear of ice. " Parry and Lyon would have hailed such a season." On the 30th, with the same companion, Frank Lailor, Hall visited some islets off Cape Englefield, searching again thoroughly for monu- ments or other signs of human beings. His next exploration was along the southern coast as far as East Cape, and from that point to Parry's Amherst Island, on which, however, he found nothing really indicat- ing that any one had been there of late years. Three flat slate stones were seen placed on each other, with their moss side down For a return to the Oo-glit Islands, a choice was to be made between continuing down the strait and their outward route by Quill- iam Creek, the latter of which routes was taken to avoid delay, which the roughness of the ice might cause. A prompt return was 350 Return to the Oo-glii Isles. [iway, ises. necessary, as their supplies, made up at first for fifteen days only, had now been drawn upon nearly three weeks. Finding an easy passage over the land to the creek, by the 6th of May they had rapidly fol- lowed it down, and, passing through Hooper Inlet, after some delays occasioned by the softness of the snow, arrived at the Oo-glit Islands early on the 8th, having in fifteen hours accomplished a journey of fifty- seven statute miles from their last halting-place on the ice of the inlet. On this journey the only living thing seen was a crow. They had found that the fox which had been set up on the snow pillar by Koo- loo-a had been carried off by some Iimuit, who had substituted for it the shoulder-blade of a walrus ; this dried meat was relished by the hungry return party. When coming hear the Oo-glit Isles, Hall "looked out upon a long impenetrable cloud of blackness overhang- ing the iceless waters of Fox Channel. The wind blowing fresh from the south and the aurora actually working on the face of the black- ness, made it seem, as we approached this world of blackness, as though we were going right straight into the lower regions in the literal signifi- cant sense of the word." The population of the village was now again increased by the coming in of several new families from the northeast to see the stranger. The first news which he heard was the loss of Ag-loo-ka and his friend E-nu-men, who were irrecoverably swept away while walrusing on the ice; the next was that another native had further accounts to give him of Kia^s strange white man. Hall determined to defer a proposed geographical exploration of the strait and go over to Tern Island to see this man. Whatever judgments may now be passed upon his persistence in this search for Franklin's sur- vivors, liis own words at the time were, "No man, knowing what I do, Ma J-, 1868.] Visit to Tcm Island 351 can possibly believe otherwise than that part of the lost companions of Franklin and Crozier have been living for several years on Melville Peninsula." But while preparing to visit Tern Island he made a survey of the Oo-glit group. Its open sea was rolling its high waves upon the shore, and its waters were alive with walrus, ducks, and sea-gulls — now-yers. Thousands of ducks filled the air with such music as made the place anything but solitary. On the 12th, his party, with Papa and his family who had now rejoined them, set off for Ig-loo-lik and Tern Island, but when near the former place they met with a sister of Kia, a long conversation with whom brought out facts substantiating the same old story ; at Tern Island the new friend, Kud-loon, gave him essentially the same particu- lars. The people of this island- being found destitute, Hall shared with them some of his supplies, and made them presents. Confined to his hut by snow-blindness (an-Jcoot-ed for it), the an-ge-ko gave as a reason for his sufferings that he had eaten out of an unsuitable pan, and had visited the igloo of one of Koo-loo-a's wives on the Oo-glit Islands at a time when he should not have done so. Before leaving Tern Island, he bartered needles, thimbles, fish-hooks, &c., for dogs, intending to make an exploring journey down the east side of Fox Channel, but again relinquished such an object, saying he had at last been able to conquer his almost uncontrollable desire to discover new lands, and had brought back his feelings of duty, to stick to the mission of finding out about the lost white men. Nood-loo, a native of Ig-loo-lik, drew for him the accompanying sketch of Murray Maxwell Inlet. This inlet, near the east end of Fury and Hecla Strait, he learned, is in reality a Sound, sweeping round to the eastward and forming a large island. To prosecute yet one more search, on the 18th of the month, in 352 Tenting-Place on Gijford River. [inar, 1868. company with Frank, Papa, Tou-tee-che-uk, his wife, and two children,, he began a journey to Parry's "GifFord River," having heard in con- versations subsequent to those which have been referred to tliat a tenting-place and other signs of white men would be found there. On the 19th, he entered this river, which proved to be really an arm of the sea, receiving several rivulets which his guide said are filled with salmon in the autumn. Its Innuit name, Kun-nuk-clu, means a bay. On the northeast shore a tenting-place was found, of which Hall made the accompanying sketch; but, with the exception of two shot and a peculiar arrangement of the stones, there was no special indication of its hav- ing been occupied by civil- ized men. It will be re- membered that Parry's men visited it. On this journey several seal a/jloos were seen, from Avhicli the young seals escaped, but a skillful Innuit captured a full-grown animal while he was sleeping and sunning himself on the ice. The usual strategy had SCHAl'KK, TO ATTKACT TllH SEAL. been exercised of hitching the body, feet foremost, step by step, to- ward the seal, and occasionally raising tlie head and looking around, May, 1S68.] Morc TaJks with the Innuits. 353 as the animal constantly does when on the watch, the man then drop- ping- his head into a cat-nap, and finally scratching on the snow with the scraper, which is made for this purpose. By thus imitating- the noise which the seal makes with his flipper, he enticed it to come near him. The harpoon was then swiftly driven in. By noon of the 21st, Hall had passed through some severe storms, but was again near Ig-loo-lik, and, after holding more talks through the next five days, prepared to return to Repulse Bay. For his sup- plies to reach that place he found it necessary to take great care of what he had collected; tor, with a new experience of his Innuit friends, he now found that no sooner did he barter for walrus-meat than a crowd rushed into his igloo and devoured it. They seem to have looked upon his stores as inexhaustible, and felt they had claims upon him for the information given in the long talks into which he had led them. The details of these talks fill a number of pages in the books A and B, heretofore named. They were essentially repetitions of the conversations in April. An intelligent Innuit named Oong-er-luh drew for him just before his leaving Ig-loo-lik the accompanying sketches of the coast of Fox Channel and of Admiralty Inlet. They have been reproduced liter- ally from Hall's note-books. The Innuit names are those given by Oong-er-luk for the numbers Avhich he placed on his maps. His sketches, with those drawn by Ar-mou, Ou-e-la, Papa, and In-nook-2)Oo- zhe-jook in 1869, are presented as specimens of Innuit ideas of native localities ; — ideas generally found to be very correct, as it will be remembered were those shown by the map drawn by the woman I-Ug- liuk for Parry. [See also Chapell's letter to Hall, page 35 of this Narrative.] S. Ex. liT 23 354 Oong-er-luKs Maps of Fox Channel. [Mar, 1868. SKETCH OF THE NORTHEAST COAST OF FOX CHANNEL BY THE INNUIT OONG-ER-LUK. 1. Ou-ker-nar-chu. [Never frozen chan- nel.) 2. Es-se-txi-e-ju-a. 3-3. Too-ki-an. 4. Tej-see-u-ark. 5. Koo-be-nar-chu. 6. Ki ki-tar-chu. 7. Kud-gu-yer. (Name of isle.) 8. Ar-kim-e-nun. 9. Ig-luk-ju-ia. 10. Ken-nuk-lukju-a. 11. Noo-wier. [Long point.) 12. Is-shook-too. 13. Tik-ik-kun. 14. Ee-uk-ju-ar-cliu. {A mountain, steep on all sides but one.) 15. Arug-u-yaru. 16. Ing-nier-ing. 17. Noon-ee-tar. 18. Ear-kee. 19. Wear-chin. 20. Tee-ke-ra-chu. 21. Eak-pin. 22. Ki-erk-chu-ken. 23. Oo-glit. 24. E-pe-u-tin. {The isthmus, where many of the Innuits from Northumber- land Inlet died, some of starvation, some by murder. Tookoo-li-too^s sister was of the ones hilled.) 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31, 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45- i ^^' 48. I 40. I 50. Shar-tuk-ju-a. King-ark-ju-a. Shok-bur. ( Water and land). Tar-ri-o-ar-chu {Bay.) Pce-lig. ( Where river enters bay.) Ee-soo-e-too. {Small lake.) Teg-siik-ju-a. {Large lalce.) Ar-teii-ni-en. Ou-le-chee-wa-chu . In-i»ook-she-lik. (Lake and land.) Kung-ook-too. Mi-uk-too-le-ar-clm. (Bay.) Ned-lu-ark-ju-a. Ki-ki-tar-loo. {Name of the two isles.) Man-uk-toe. Arng-mark-ju-a. Kig-gur-wig. Nug-lee-we-too. Shartoo. {Between ^'6 and 44 ?s Skeoch Bay of Parry'' s chart.) Kop-e-e-we. ( Cape Elwyn of Parry's chart.) 46. Sed ler. {The land southeast and east of Cape Konig of Parry's chart.) See-er-wark-ju. Im-me-yay-too. Ki-nk-tar-bin. Wall-ing-yer. NOTES WRITTEN DOAVN BY HALL I'KOM DICTATION BY OONG-ER-LUK. From Shar-too (43) to the " high land " of sketch, it would take six days with dogs and an unloaded sledge, the dogs going fast. As Innuits generally travel, SKETCH OF 4 ( N.E. COAST or TOX CHANNEL B^- the Innuil Ooug-er-luk JJrawn May 2:-i''-'^ l&rtH A !?Iay, ISHS.] Oong-er-luk^ s Map of Admiralty Inlet. 355 with families aiwi bousehold goods, it would take fifteen days ; so say Innnits that have lived for maQy summers all along the coast sketched. I think the distance from Shartoo (43) to said high land to be from 250 to 300 miles. From Ned-lu- ark-ju-a (37), old man Nou-learju says one can see the mountain which is near to the very large lake which is on the route Innuits take in traveling and voyaging from Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too's country (Too-nuk-jok-ping, Northumberland Inlet) to Ig-loo-lik, The large river which runs from said lake, called Kook-ju a, is more than half way from Too-nuk-jok-ping to Ned-lu-ark-ju-a (37).^ A woman, very smart and intelligent, by the name of A-mer-goo (wife of Innnn-lcing), who came from Northvmberland InJet, says that when the party she accompanied from her country to Ig-loo-lik left the mouth of the great river that runs from Kook- ju-a (the Great Lake), it took eight days to get to E-pe-u-tin (the peninsula of 24) in their oo-mi-en (great family boat). Much of th© land was very low, and when the tide ebbed they used to let their boat take the ground instead of trying to get to the shore, for they had to stand far out from it to keep in water that only at flood-tide was deep enough to float their craft. On getting to 24, the Innuits always make portage, instead of going so far as to round the long land (25). SKETCH or TOO-NOO-NEE-NOO-SHUK, OR ADMIKALTY INLET, BY OONG-EK-LUK. L Too-joo. 2. See-goo-ar. 3. Ok-ke-oge-nuii. 4. Koud-loo-too. 5. Sing-i-ze-oke-big. 0. KiSn-uk-lu-ar-chu. 7. K6k-oolu-in. 8. Kun-idc-lu-ar-chu. 9. Shoo-uk-te-lik. 10. Ouk-bar-too. 11. Tel-ler-ar-chu. 12. Eke-pe-ar-chu. 13-13. Ej-iik-tar-zhu. 14-14. Noo-wiu. 15. Oo-look-shuu. {Waiives live here much when ice in gone.) 16. Eke-i)e-ar-chu. 17-17. Put-tar-te-lik. 18-18. Kun-nuk-too. (A bag.) 19-19. Ki-ki-tou-kin. 20. Ki-ik-tun-ten al-loo. 21. Ki-ik-tun. {The island.) 22. Se-er-wok-te-u. 23. Eve-ju-ar-cliin. 24. Ang-no-quo-zham. 25. Now-yarn. 2(5. Eke-pik-ju-ar-chiu. 27. Ok-big-seer-i)ing. 28. In-ntik-too-big. 29. E-ter-be-lu, 30. Sed-no-wa-ling. 31. Sed-no-way-suk. 32. Ed-irdv-ju-in. 33. Tee-kee ra-chfi. 356 Map of Admiralty Inlet. [May, ises. 34. Ki-ki-tar-zliu. 35. Kub-lo-e-tit. 36. Too-ler-kut. 37. She-ming. 38. Tiu-nee-je-va-loo. 39. Oo-pung-ne-wing. 40. Kiin-ne-i-rung. {Natives live much of the time here.) NOTES WRITTEN DOWN BY HALL FROM DICTATION BY OONG-ER-LUK. The width of the bay not so great at and near the entrance as farther in. One meditim day's good drive with dog-sledge from one side of the bay to the other in its general width. The trend of bay not exactly north and south, but little to the northeastward and southwestward. At the mouth of the inlet early spring whaling might be prosecuted, for a great many whales are always seen close to the bay-floe by the natives as early as April and May. Ice out of the whole bay every year, and then there are a great many black whales, white whales, and narwhals all over the bay. Very good anchorage for ships at 16 and other places in the bay (18-18). Good for ships in 6, 8, 10, and 12. High land and deep water about and in 18-18. Innuits in the summer kill whales in 18-18. No rough ice in the bay Too-noo-nee-roo- shuk ; all smooth floe. No icebergs or other heavy ice finds its way into this great bay, for it all sweeps onward with the current in Barrow Strait to the east- ward. When the wind is from the east, and the ice is driven westward, for some reason it does not drive down into the bay. Coast on the west side nearly straight, and without any indentations. High land on west side. After the ships have all left Too-noo-nee (Pond's Bay), having finished whaling by the floe there, then is the good time to see a great many whales in the great bay of Too-noo-nee-roo-shuk. Once a whale was found in the bay of T. K. by the natives which was dead, with lines and harpoons in it. A great many narwhals killed by Innuits at T. K. and their horns taken by them to Pond's Bay and bartered off to the whalers. The RETURN to Repulse Bay was now begun. Leaving the Oo- glit Islands on the 31st of May, Hall further examined a new bay which he had discovered and a lake on the southwest, into which he crossed by a short portage. Whenever the weather permitted, and so far as his very defective instruments enabled him on this part of his jour- ney and until he reached Haviland Bay, he made a rough survey of the whole route But the injured condition of his compass and sex- Oi BAEEOW STRAIT SKETCH OF ADMIRALTY INLET By Oong'-er-lu.k DrawnMaj 23'"-'^1868. June, 1868.1 Tlie Tvces Near Hoj^j^ner's Creek 357 tant and the interruptions by rain and storm and by his own suffer- ings, prevented his observations from being more than approximate. Arriving on the east side of the head of Hoj^pner Inlet, he found three small streams, in one of which was an abundant growth of wood in a cluster of undergrowth showing some creeping trees which spread themselves out. One of these was 11 feet in length and 2 inches in diameter at the base. It was seen that " where a portion of the tree in its creeping position pressed hard upon the earth, it had sent down numerous branches of roots."* The river where this wood is in such abundance, empties itself into the one by which he was encamped just before it enters the head of Hoppner's Creek. " It comes down a wild ravine, having steep mount- ain-high sand-banks on either side." Hall wrote with these words : "When the lakes have their ice loosened, all the three rivers will pom- down their living, dancing waters, when salmon will greatly abound where fresh and salt water mingle." He was at the time heartily tired of walrus, deer-meat, and tood-noo. "His mouth watered in vain for salmon," which Papa and Hannah had failed to secure. He explored the region between the head of this inlet and Lyon's Inlet, and, striking across the land to Haviland Bay, arrived on its banks on the 24th, crossed on its thin ice on the day following, at times through water a foot deep, and at 4 a. m. of the 26th, regained his encampment at Tal-loon ; the sledge journey had been one of ninety-six days. It was a satisfaction to find the white men whom he had hired in full health. His dogs, too, were in as good condition as when they had started out. His Innuit friends gave him a present of *For a most interesting account of trees growing still further north, some of them 3 feet in diameter, found in a ravine, see Osborn's account of McClure's Northwest Passage ; also, Meacham's report of the trees found on Prince Patrick Island, in lat. 76° 15', long. 121° 40.' 358 Successful Salmon-Fishing. tJuiy, tses. salmon, some of which measured 32 to 37 inches in length, weigh- ing from 9 to 1 3 pounds each. The record of the two remaining summer months presents as inci- dents of special interest a successful season for salmon-fishing and deer-hunting; the very unfortunate, though justified, shooting of one of the five hired men ; and the capture of another whale, the pos- session of which, together with renewed supplies from friends in the United States, encouraged Hall to hope that he could remain over still another year and yet reach King William's Land. In this it will be found he succeeded in the following spring. A supply of salmon had always been an object, as well for the change which it ofi"ered from the unvarying rough Arctic *'food, as for the value of the fish when dried and stored for the winter; but up to this time little success had rewarded the best efforts made by Hall and his hired men either with their nets or spears. The Innuits, through long practice, were experts in spearing, and the}' seemed to have gen- erally considered the fishing-grounds as their exclusive property. The notes of July 20 record a determination not to be outdone in the work. Hearing that they were securing very many fish and his men very few. Hall, tliough quite ill, jumped from his bed, and quickly dressing, ordered each of his company to repair promptly their sadly broken spears, for he would see whether white men could be so easily beaten ; " one need not starve while such food abounds." As the tide was about to flood, it became necessary to make great haste or our ehauce would be lost till next ebb ; so every one worked with a will. When the spears were in order, I organized my men into a regular fish-fighting com- pany, and then into the deep pools all in line we plunged, or in fact waded thigh deep. The Innuits had all left, eacli having caught as many as he could well attend to, except Ar-goo-moo-foo-Iil; whom I requested to desist while I made a July, 1868.] The Mutiny. 359 trial \v1tli my men alone. In one hour from the time we entered the ice-cold water we had every spear broken, so that not one in a dozen salmon struck could be saved. Then, all in a line, behind and by the side of our net, waist-deep in the pool, we marched, dragging the net and driving the salmon like sheep before us. When well advanced to the upper end of the pool, the water was found to be black with floundering fish. Having reached a narrow place where the net stretched from shore to shoi'e, and penned in the salmon completely, myself, Joe, Frank, and all the rest except Antoine, who played sick, went to Avork scooping out salmon, and in a few minutes caught one hundred and seventy-five, the total weight of which exceeded 1,000 pounds, for the greater number were quite large. The Innuits acknowledged themselves beaten. Hall attributed his success to the use of his excellent Brevoort net, with which he thought he would have even doubled the number taken if he had been allowed the first chance at the pool. A most unhappy record is now to be made. From the date of his return from Fury and. Hecla Strait some dissatisfaction seems to have been growing among the hired men whom he had left at. the encamp- ment when setting out on that journey. They had been lacking in their care of the stores, backward on going out on the hunts, and tardy when absent on these, as well as hurtfully careless in feeding the dogs. The ill-feeling manifested by several of them toward Hall, arising pos- sibly from the uncertainty as to the time when any ships would appear in the bay to take them to their homes, culminated in the unfortunate affair which is best presented in his own words : July 31. — Gave Peter his order to take my rifle and go on a deer-hunt, and to take along Antoine and Pat, and show them where a certain deer he had killed and deposited was, and have them bring it in. The party started off at 10 a. m. A short time after, sent Sam out to get a deer-skin and the buck-meat my Joe had left on his way home yesterday. At 7 p. m., Sam returned, having been unsuc- cessful in finding my Joe's bundle, and at 8 p. m. Antoine and Pat returned, and a few minutes later Peter came in, having seen no deer. Asked Antoine how far 360 naWs Account of the Mutiny. [Jniy, ises. he should think it was to where he and Pat got the deer they brought in ? An- swer, ten or twelve miles. When Peter came in, I asked him how far it was to the deer-deposit Antoine and Pat brought in, and he said about the same as the musk-ox deposit, six and a half miles, to where we went directly on the 23d. I asked him if he did not think that Pat and Antoine could have performed the service I sent them on in a little more than half the time of ten hours'? Answer, that he thought they could. I proceeded to the men's tent, and asked Antoine and Pat if they could not have made better time in the worli^ they performed today"? They, with much temper, replied they could not. I told them what Peter had told me, and said that it became them to be as expeditious as possible whenever I had work for them to do, reminding them of their spending a whole day a short time since in going out only some two miles after a couple of deer, when they might have done the same in one-fourth of the time. This was fol- lowed by a burst of real mutinous conduct on the part of Pat and Antoine, to which demonstration Sam and Peter seemed to be a party. Pat was the leader, and I felt for my own safety that something must be done to meet so terrible a blow as seemed ready to fall. I appealed to Pat esi)ecially to stop his mutinous talk and conduct. I was alone, though a small distance off were all the Innuits of the tent-village looking upon the scene. Pat was standing in the door of the tent (he and Antoine, when I first went into the tent, were seated in it, but as their rage increased they woi-ked themselves out to be in a circle of the other two), where he was delivering himself of the most rebellious language jjossible. I made an approach to him, i)utting my hand up before him, motioning for him to stop. He ;it once squared himself, doubling up his fists and drawing back in position, as it were, to jumii upon and fight me. Failing to make him desist without forci- ble means, I thought at first to give him a good drubbing, but knowing Pat to be of a powerful frame and muscle, nud that if I did make an attemi)t I should at once have a party of four upon me, I demanded of Peter my lifle, which he gave me. I hastened to my tent, laid down the rifle, and seized my Baylie revolvei', and went back and faced the leader of the mutinous crowd, and demanded of Pat to know if he would desist in his mutinous conduct ? His reply being still more threatening, I pulled trigger, and in a few minutes he staggered and fell. I wallced directly, but more as a man then suddenly dreaming, to the front of Papa^s tent, where was a crowd of frightened natives, passed the pistol to the hand of Ar-mou, which still had four undischarged loads in it, and then ran back and as- sisted in getting Pat to my tent. I supposed he could not live five minutes, but a Mightier hand than mine had stayed the ball from a vital part. July, 1S6S.] Death of Col em mi. 361 The unhappy man, Patrick Coleman, Hngered from the 31st of July until the 14th of the following- month, during the whole of which time every effort was made by Hall to save his life by the use of all remedies at his command and by the most careful nursing, in which his other men took their full share. Antoine made a full confession of his having done wrong. The Innuits told Hall they had expected that the four mutinous men, whom he had encountered at the time of shooting one of them, would attack and endeavor to kill him, and that it had been their purpose to run to his rescue. He now participated in the anxious uncertainties felt by his men as to whether any whaling- vessel would visit the bay this year; and, if not, by what possible means he could reach York Factor}^ should his hopes of making a final journey to King William's Land entirely fail him. As far back as the 29th of July (before the mutin}^) he had written in his journal : I know not whether I and my company are to leave these regions this fall or not. Most assuredly I have had no doubts but we should. All my expectations and calculations have been to this point; but now as I look out upon Eepulse Bay and see it still fast in its ten months' icy chains, I must confess I begin to have doubts. Many times a day I ascend our lookout hill to take long and prolonged looks through my "spy" down to the southeastward, in the direction of the per- petual open water that sweeps through Hurd's Channel and Frozen Strait across to Beach Point, and thence rushes down Eowe's Welcome. IsTo ship there afar off to gladden my sight. It has been my plan that if none should enter Eepulse Bay by the 5th of August, I would embark in our boat Sylvia for York Factory. But will it be prudent to attempt the voyage in this boat! I know that Dr. Eae luade a successful voyage here from that place, and the next year returned to it. But his boats were large, heavy, and strong, and the Sylvia is of the lightest con- struction possible; her planks of cedar one-half inch thick only. During the illness of Coleman, it was found out that at least one of the other four men had said if he could not otherwise get a boat 362 Release of the Surviving White Men. [August, ises. he would steal one, and go to York Factory with his fellows. Hall him- self, under the force of circumstances, had gained Ar-mou^s consent to have the Lady Franklin for their use, promising that the Sylvia should be at Ar-mou^s service so long as he should still remain in the country. But on the 16th he was relieved from these anxieties by the sight at anchor of the Ansell Gibbs and the Concordia. The four men were notified that they could make what arrangements they pleased for their return, and they all promptly shipped on these vessels, Lailor, whom Hall always commends, and on whom he had somewhat counted on to remain another year, shipping last of the party. Hall gave to each a certificate of his having served thi-ough tl e year and his note for the payment due. As for himself, although he found that he could make very few purchases from these vessels for his still expected jour- ney to King William's Land, he determined to stay. Mr. Grinnell had sent him some further supplies, and he would once more depend on his own labors and on the friendly Innuits. The first encouragement which followed this determination was the capture of another whale on the 31st of August. For this the natives were as anxious as himself The blubber was needed for fuel, the skin for food, and the meat chiefly for the dogs. When a fine rising of a coveted prize was now seen in the harbor, the native crews of the Sylvia and the Lady Franklin were quick to give chase under Hall's orders, and on the Lady Franklin's nearing the Avhale, Ar-mou splen- didly threw two irons into its flank, but unhappily not until the bow of the boat had struck the animal a few feet abaft the fins. From the swiftness with which the line ran out, it was clear that the whale had struck for soundings. But suddenly the line ceased to run and the boat began to move along with great rapidity, the line still slack ; she August, 1868. A Second Whale Captured. 863 careened, and was, at last, thrown completely on her beam ends, the explanation of which was that the whale had rushed along with the boat on its back. It was no wonder that at the time every man thought himself lost. But before long the boat righted, the oars on one side being cracked; one of them, destroyed. It was an hour from the first blow until the whale spouted blood and ended the struggle "with thunder-claps from its broad tail upon the waters." The natives on shore, Mdiile watching the fight, went through an an-lioot-ing performance for its successful issue. They aided in hauling the whale up on land, and began their feast from it that night at supper. Two days later, the whole company of men, women, and children, numbering more than fifty, went hard to work making deposits, when the women cut up and carried in their hands masses of the meat; the men dragged or carried on their shoulders 364 Beer-Hunting at Talloon. [September, ises. blubber and meat; the children "bolted" pieces of the black skin; and trains of dogs pulled "horse-pieces" up the steep rocks. For cooking some of the meat, fires of bone and oil were made, the Innuit customs forbidding the gathering of wood at such times for fuel. Dried bones found scattered around were collected in a fire-place, which was only a few stones supporting a kettle, the bones answering the purpose also of a wick, and a very hot and sooty fire being thus kept up. The longest blades of bone of this whale measured seven feet; all were willingly and unanimously given by the natives to Hall. The cache was made at Iwillik. On the 1 2th of September, a removal was made, with few of the natives, to the west side of Talloon Bay, where they spent the rest of the month and the month following chiefly in deer-hunting. Hall himself on one day shot five deer in five minutes, and Too-koo-li-too became quite a marksman. November 4 a journey was undertaken to Lyon's Inlet to de- termine the location of some places in regard to which Hall had not been satisfied with Parry's chart. His companions were his old friend Papa-teiv-a, with one of his wives and a child ; his team was made up of ten dogs. On the 1 2th, the party were at the head of Haviland Bay; on the 14th, Ross Bay was crossed, and on the 17th an encampment made on the south shore of a peninsula to which the natives gave the same name with their northern settlement — Ig-loo-lik. Here Hall busied himself with the survey of the coasts and an exami- nation of the charmel called by Parry the Rush of Waters. Visiting the site of a stone pile spoken of by Captain Parry as put up for de- positing a memorandum in tlic absence of Mr. Sherer, one of the officers of his Second expedition (1821), Hall found it still undisturbed. Re- rr w cT' ? =. .^ a 5 P' r ^ November, 1868.] Joumeij to Lyon's Inlet. 365 maining for some days in this locality, he discovered and surveyed a creek called by the Innuits Nee-bar-bic. He then learned that there was another bay on the east side of Lyon's Inlet corresponding in lati- tude to Parry's Norman Creek, and was thus able to understand some difficulties. Pany had erroneously given the Innuit name of his Nor- man Creek as Neeb-wa-wik, the pronunciation of which is close to that of Nee-bar-bic. When Hall had heard of this last creek from the Innuits he had taken it to be Parry's Norman Creek, and could not understand that the distinguished navigator had placed this ten miles out of position ; it was the application of the Innuit name only which was wrong. He was gratified by the discovery of a new creek in an inlet which Lyon had so thoroughly examined that he thought no arm or branch had been overlooked ; but believed that the approach had been hidden from these officers by a high island. When the party wished to encamp at night on the 14th of the month, they took possession of a newly-deserted igloo. It was dark at 4 p. m., when they entered, but soon afterward an Innuit known as Tom came in with his child from one of his deer-meat caches. He brought the news that Ar-tung-un — the man who at Ig-loo-iik had once exchanged names with Hall — was at the point of death in a vil- lage a little northward. Hall visited him the next day, but found that the poor consumptive was past saving, and was insisting that his son should end his suiferings by stabbing him or by shooting him Avith an arrow, against which Hall's earnest interposition was ineffectual. The i^foo which he had been occupying had been built hy Ar-timg- un's son, that he might remove to it instantly on his father's death, and so avoid the loss of several days of mourning. The day follow- ing he hung his father. 366 Injured Instruments. [worember, ises. The note-books of this journey are filled up with the minutest details of the visits, of the observations attempted, of their computa- tions, and of the perplexities into which Hall found himself driven by the severity of the cold, the changing season, and the injuries renewed to his instruments, preventing the accuracy he so much desired for his work. The notes of the night of the 15tli of the month say : Tried my best to make observations for latitude of Jupiter, but though not a cloud in the heavens, yet the stars shine dimly and fine snow is falling. Usu- ally the sky is called hazy when it is really diffused aurora. Again, on the 20th : Nothing causes me greater regret than the poor instruments I have in the way of sextants. At nine this evening the heavens became clear, and I tried ray best to get some good observations of Jupiter, though he had passed the meridian. By several observations I could determine the latitude, but that only could I make. The silvering on the glasses is all cracked by the frost of several winters of the North. On the 28th, the moon at 8 p. m. was covered with a hazy atmosphere, but was gloriously surrounded by several circles: the outer one of rose color, then a lesser one of pea-green, then lilac, and then a knob of radiant light like the sun's. The outer circle was about 5° in diameter. His pocket-chronometer having provokingly stopped, he devised a plan for detecting a repetition of the fault; this was to place the chro- nometer in his hood and next his right ear. The fob was made by one of the Innuit women out of rabbit and deer skin. From the time he rose till he retired, the instrument lay next his ear as in the safest and most convenient place considering the calls upon it. When keeping it next his heai*t, it was warm and safe from any sudden jar. 85°00 13*^' IS 68. JOURNFA^ TO LYON\S INLET 1868 (ftV u new 1 1 lift , A' yives th.c TLarn e, iAT name of this Cr e- buT-hic. W(i.'i disvin Ne.eh - w n - w ik , to ]\'i> r °ek IS Kfvn-nnk-cl K."> "0 November, 1868.] Discoverits Mttdt Ifl 1868. 367 The exposures to which he had been ag-ain subjected on his jour- ney held him close for a day or more in his igho, where he wrote on the 25th: " Snatches only of sleep have I had for several nights. In noting down my work as well as in taking observations, I have had my right thumb frost-bitten, and that, when I did not know it." The aurora of that date, the finest of all he had witnessed, he could not attempt to describe. The 29th of the month saw him back in his old quarters on the bay. In a letter to the President of the American Geographical Society, written after his return to the United States, reviewing the geographical explorations he had made on the two journeys of this year, he claims the discoveries of a new inlet, lat. 67° N., long. 84^ 30' W., a few miles north of Norman Creek; a bay on the west side of Fox Channel, lat. 69° N., long. 81° 30' W.; a lake twenty-five miles in length, lat. 68° 45' N., long. 82° W. ; and a second lake, in lat. 69° 35', fift)^ miles in length, with its two outlets, the lake running par- allel with Fury and Hecla Strait. Also, two islands : one northwest of the west end of that strait and the other at its east end. What he considered accomplished of the most importance geographically, was the completion of the coast-line around the northwest side of Melville Peninsula to Cape Crozier. The bay now discovered was said to have an entrance from Barrow Strait, lat. 73° 43' N., long. 83° W., and to extend very nearly in a southerly direction to about the 71st degree north latitude. The natives had assured him that at times they killed in it five whales in a day, and that it abounded in the smooth-back (Baloena mysticetus) and in narwhals and seals. It was free from ice every summer, and promised to be of as much value to whalers as Cumberland Sound. 368 Winter Quarters at Talloon. [December, 1868. Returning from the last of these surveys, made as has been seen after the full setting in of the cold of November, Hall had before him a period of four months to be passed through before a sledge trip for the Franklin Records could be renewed. The first half of this period was spent in rest and amid the winter festivities of the natives ; the second half was a time of the severest labor and fatigue in preparing provisions for his next and last journey before returning to the United States. jannary, 1869.] The NoowooJc NttUves ut IwUUL 369 The village near which he quartered himself now contained one hundred and twenty inhabitants, a number to which it had suddenly- risen by the coming in of some from Lyon's Inlet, who had heard of the whale captures. December and January were spent by this people in a round of amusements, feastings, and gynmastics. A low kind of gambling, spoken of as " whirling a trigger," was supplemented by renewed an-Jcoo-ting performances, all of which were broken in upon at times by long and weary journeys through snow and ice to renew from their deposits exhausted supplies of food. The natives, as was to be expected, were often very improvident, voraciously consuming a load of as many as five deer in an hour after bringing them in, and then suffering from absolute want. On the first day of the new year, the fifth which Hall had now spent in the North, he entertained at din- ner all those Avho had been with him through his first winter at Noo-wook. Ten of the forty-two had died, and but two children had been born. He was aided by the natives during the winter more fully than ever before, no alienations such as have been sometimes referred to again occurring; but his chief difficulty seems to have been an excess of cordiality on their part, which broke in upon him while working up the observations made on his trip to Lyon's Inlet. His igloo was sometimes filled with men, women, and children, keeping up a constant jabbering, humming, crying, and begging; noises which made him say that if he could have some retirement, it would be the blessing of an earthly heaven. They often gave him further disquiet by unscru- pulously laying hands on his own stores — never asking leave. Papa Tew-a, on one of the bleak days of January, drew for him, S. Ex. 27 24 370 Pa-pals Sketch of Pond's Bay. [January, 1860. in his igloo, the accompanying sketch of Pond's Bay, Plall writing down fi'om dictation the names corresponding to Pa-pa's numbers. 1. 2, 3, 4, 5. G. 7, 8, 9. 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, SKETCH OF POND'S BAY, DRAWN BY THE INNUIT PAPA. 19. See-er-wok-too-u. Too-e-joo. Oo-gla. Discharging glacier. 4. Too-loo-yer. Grounded icebergs. Sliar too. Ing-nut-ta-lik. Large and high grounded iceberg. Ou-kee-lee-arli-tung. ( The penin- sula.) Ou-ti-eetoo. {Glacier.) A bay abounding in whales. A roof-like hill, on an extensive plain. Koo-ook-ju-a. {A very high water- fall; tenting place there.) E-te-u-yer. Two remarkable rocks. Too-noo-nee. Kuug-e-er-a. Neer-ker-oon. 20. Too-arn. 21. Ung-ma. 22. Kik-kik-te-ting-nun. I 23. Kik-kiktuk-jua. i 24. Ini-me-le. {Lalce on this isle.) 25. E-e-la. {Something liJce a windoiv in mountain-side.) j 26. A head of whalebone just below low tide. 27. Kim-e-big. 28. Too-loo-karn. {Four isles.) 29. Kook-wiu-ar-loo. 30. Toong-win. 31. Kin-e-loo-kun. 32. Ee-we-shar. 32. Ee-ark-ju-a. {The point: a very high mountain and the wind heard con- stantly roaring at its top. 33. Small island. From natives of the inlet he received some singular accounts of minerals found there. Native iron in great abundance. Stones that arc of very fine grain, look pretty, and stand upright ; the same being long, slender, and like round sticks of wood ; some elastic, that is, will bend. Also a great many pretty stones that are transparent, just as clear as crystal, like the sun-glass given to Ar-1ca-too. From the description of some of these stones, or I should say of some other kinds which are also like glass in appearance, I cannot well compichend what they be, for Ar- Jca-too says, as the sun is shining on them, if the hand shadows them, away they go down in the ground, appearing to act as though alive. By great carefulness Inuiiits have succeeded in catching now and then some of these wonderful stones, [rcbrnary, 1809. Minerals from Admiralty Inlet. 371 aud whenever tliey do thus siicceed, the stones are hard and glass-like. This seems to be myth-like to me, hut some one in the States may And this matter explainable. * # * Since writing the above, I have looked into the Admiralty Manual of Sci- entific Inquiry and found the following: "With regard to dimorphism, or the crystallization of the same chemically composed substances in diftereut forms • * * , right rhomboidal crystals of sulphate of nickel exposed in a vase to the sun were found changed in the interior without jjassing through the liquid state into octahedrons with a square base, the exterior crust of the original crys- tal retaining its first form." (Pp. 251 and 252, edition of 1851.) That there is something peculiar in these crystals of Admiralty Inlet that makes all the Innuits there, and all distant Innuits who have heard about them, think they are sometimes as though alive, I do not doubt from the deeply -inter- esting account given by Ar-M-too. Early in the month of January the natives renewed their sealing on the ice of the bay, and Hall's party again fixed their headquarters at Talloon, in a commodious igloo built on a lakelet, where a well of pure water was easily made near the bed-platform of the hut. The igloo was made comfortable for eleven inhabitants. It was carefully- lined with skins hung within five or six inches of the snow-walls, mak- ing inside of it a tupik. This main building was an oval 22 feet long, 1 3 wide, and 8 feet high, and was connected by a tooJc-soo (passage-way). It had six store-house huts. The floor of the passage-way, as usual, was lower in the middle than either at the doorway or at the entrance of the main building. A door of hard snow for each store-house was fitted into a casemate of the same " pure white marble." In these quarters the chief business of February and of March was the drying of venison over the native lamps — a slow and very laborious process. While this was going on, the door-ways were closed, and five lamps whose united length of wick was fifty-six inches, were kept blazing day and night, consuming 78 pounds of blubber a week. 372 Preparation of Pemmican. [March, is69. By continuing the work nearly every day, 170 pounds of thoroughly dried meat, equal to 680 pounds of the fresh, were obtained. This, mixed with tood-noo was good pemmican.* For a sufficient supply of food for the dogs on the journey Hall was soon to undertake, he was dependent on the natives, who with great difficulty caught for him a walrus far out on the ice. His health was better than at any previous time of his residence in the North; lie never had a touch of scurvy. His thorough adoption of the Innuit dress fully protected his person, so that, with the exception of slight frost-bites on his face, he sustained no bodily injury from severe exposures. He took exercise only when necessary to procure supplies or when inclination prompted; — never for the sake of exercise purely: but he found his strength and power of endurance to increase, as is shown by his readily walking off for some * When Hall left the United States in 1854 he coutracted for 500 pounds desiccated beef incorporated with 500 pounds of beef-suet tallow and put up in tin cans of 25 pounds each. He had now learned the value of this pemmican in days bordering on starvation, on which he had some- times fallen. Hence his great labor at the date of setting out finally on so long a journey. In this connection it may be of interest to refer to the provision made by the distinguished Arctic explorer Richardson when setting out on his boat voyage through Rupert's Laud in 1851. The most ample means for the i)reparation of full supplies was in his hands. He describes it follows: "A round or bullock of beef of the best quality having been cut into thin steaks, from which the fat and the membranous parts were pared away, was dried iu a malt-kiln over an oak-firo until its moisture was entirely dissipated and the fibre of the meat became friable. It was then ground in a malt-mill, when it resembled finely-grated meat. Being next mixed with nearly an equal weight of melted beef suet, or lard, the preparation of plain pemmican was complete; but to render it more agreeable to the unaccustomed jialate a proportion of the best Zante currants was added to part of it, and part Avas sweetened with sugar. Both these kinds were luucli approved of in the sequel by the consumers, but more especially that to which the sugar had been added. After the ingredients were well iucorporated by stirring, they were transferred to fin canisters, capable of containing 85 pounds each ; and having been firmly rammed down and allowed to contract further by cooling, the air was completely expelled and excluded by filling the canister to the brim with molted lard through a small liolo left in the end, which was then covered with a piece of tin and soldered up. "The meat in drying loses more than three-fourths of its original weight; 35,G5I pounds were reduced to about 8,000. » » # -pfj^ natives of the Northwest dry their venison by exposing thin slices to the heat of the sun on a stage under which a small fire is kept, more for the purpose of driving away the flies by the smoke than for promoting exsiccation, and then tlicy pound it between two stones on a bison-hide. In this process the pounded meat is contami- uated by a greater or mualler admixture of hair or other impurities." March, 1869.1 Eeadifiess for Another Sledge Journey. 373 distance in a rue-rad-dy (harness) with a sled-load of 429 pounds, the sled-shoeing of which was iced moss. Healthful occupation of the mind, devotion to the work still before him, and a continued friendly intercourse with the natives and participation in their amusements and hunts were, doubtless, the additional causes of his freedom from sickness and casualty during this season, as they had been through the preceding four winters. By the 21st of March he had nearly completed his preparations for a start. To secure dogs and^their food, three trips were made inland and two to a settlement on the ice; requiring in all a journey of 170 miles. Nearly six hundred balls were molded over a coal-fire in a small stove belonging to Ar-mou. The stores which he was to leave behind were placed in charge of his Innuit friends to whom presents were made, the packages of which were each labeled with a tag having on it the picture of an animal, as a help to Ar-movJs memory in deliver- ing them to each friend. All appear to have been at this time cor- dial well-wishers of his success, a goodly number of them being pro- fessedly ready to go with him.* * They were probably again ready for a cbauge. The two preceding mouths had been to them a season of unusual suffering from cold, and at times from want. But few seals had been caught. The severity of the cold had been experienced throughout a fearful gale in January, lasting through ten consecutivo days ; and in February there was the uni^recedentea occurrence of a burying up of their snow village, closely endangering the lives of all the Innuits. In one of the huts, a child, which had rolled a little way out from its mother's sleeping-robe, froze into ice. The Journal of January 25 had read : " Still another day (the seventh) of the severest storm I have ever witnessed. All day yesterday, the wind was but one degree less than a hurricane force ; and it was with great danger that I ventured out from the toolcsoo, to visit my Wind Indicator, thougli the distance is not more than 20 yards. The storm is right abeam, and the only way to keep myself erect is by strong bracing against and reclining on the wind; yet vv'ith all this precaution, now and then the wind will lilt and drive mo tumbling and rolling like a drunken man. II has been so charged too with drift, that it has been impossible to designate whether the sky was clouded or fair : I suspect that the latter is the case, for I could see the moon to-night dimly through the drift, which appeared to be the only obstruction. This p. m. the drift changed from the soft, pliant, impactable kind to that of dry sand (so to speak); and then hy attrition the snow- walls of our edilices began to be destroyed. An alarming fact was then x^alpable — that we shoukl 374 Readiness for Another Sledge Journey. [march, isgs. Hall was in high spirits when, on the 22d of the month, he ad- vanced a load of provisions to North Pole Lake, and he would have started out on that day with his full stores and his ammunition and weapons to meet even the Neitchille tribes, had not a severe gale set in. Tlie dela}^ of one day was a trial. soon bo shelterless in this most pitiless storm unless wo could devise some way to stay the swift destruction. Papa Tcwa and I, in our full winter rig, ventured out with a desperate determina- tion, sought our way here and tliero about the building, and throw up banks of snow agaiu.st such walls as had been entirely worn ihrough, or were nearly so; at one exposed place of our castle we fastened a large deer shin across the hole by pegs driven into the walls. But for the moonlight, though dim, it would have been a doubtful case as to our staying the ravages of Ihe sand-like (b-ift. The whole dome was destroyed at night, but it was not of the hardest compact snow. When it was rebuilt it was again lined with seal and walrus skins, which when first brought into the hut were stiff with ice, but after hanging within for an hour comnn'nced dripping. The ice was then poimdcd from them. Ebierbing, with some of his friends, came in on the next evening after traveling all day undcT the coutinuauce of this storm; the drift so thick that at times, the dogs were completely hidden from the driver's sight. On asking what made him venture out, he answered, " Because we are so hungry." The Innuits out on the ice of the bay for sealing (numbering one hundred and ten persons) are all suffering ; Joe brought to our igloo a drug of Ook-gook oil & blubber, on getting which from a cache, they found that the Polar Bears had eaten \\\i the meat. Under renewed necessities forced upon us, Joe visited a Fox-trap a uule and a half from Iwillik and found two prize swithin. The stone trap was of a jieculiar kind. Built uj) of a semi-globular shape, about four feet in diameter & four feet in height, it had a hole near the top large enough only for a fox to squeeze himself in. The animal on scenting the meat jumps down to the bottom, as, at times, ton or more of them are found to have done. Once in, there is no getting out. Chaptei^ JOURNEY TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND AND RETURN TO THE UNITED STATES. MARCH 23 TO SEPTEMBER 26, U!G9. CHAPTER XTII. Hall degins nis final joukney to King William's Land — Route towaed Pelly Bay the SAME with that FOLLOWED IN 1806 AND 1867 — THE CACHE MADE IN 1867 REACHED— Safety of the stokes— Deposit made fob the return journey — Encamps on Lake Tep-suk-ju-a, April 8 — On Augusta Isiand, April 11 — Meets Pelly Bay natives — Peculiarities of the ice forjiation — Flying sledge trip to the igloos — Franklin RELICS — Hall's nati\-es alarmed — Their fears quieted — Musk-ox hunt near Simp- son's Lake— Neitchille natives met — Conversations with In-nook-poo-zhe-jook — More Franklin relics — Encamps on Todd's Island — Graves of Franklin's men vis- ited NEAR Peffer River — Graves on Todd's Island — Deep snow prevents further SEARCH — Unwillingness of the natives to remain — Return to Repulse Bay — Infor- mation FROM In-nook-poo-zhe-jook on the route — Abundance of game from King William's Land to Repulse Bay — Musk-ox hunts — Hall's letter giving the results OF this joupjjey — Arrives at Repulse Bay — Plans of return to the United States — Occupations during June and July — Places the bone of his second whale and HIS musk-ox skins on the Ansell Gibbs — Hunts the bear and the deer at Whale Point — Sails for the United States — Arrives at New Bedford, September 2.'), 1F6'J. The first page of Hall's note-book for March 23, 1869, has on its face the same cheerful words with those recorded in setting out on his hopeful journey of 1866 — " Now FOR King William's Land !" Neither the long and discouraging period of four and a half years through which he had passed, nor the repeated inducements oifered to return to the United States, were permitted to stand in the way of renewing this inscription. His party now consisted not of white men on the plan proposed 377 378 Final Journey to King William's Land. [March, ]8(>9. in 1866, but of five Eskimo men, three women, and two cliildren. These were Ebierbing- and Too-koo-H-too, with their adopted dau^^hter, Pun-ny ; Oii-e-la, Pa-pa, Nu-Jcer-^hoo, his wife {Pun-ny's mother), Ech- clwo-ar-choo (Jerry), and his wife, with infant in her hood : in all, eleven souls. SETTING OVT FOU KING WILLIAM'S LAXD, JLMiCH 23, 18(i9. Proposing to follow his old route from Gibson's Cove to Pelly Bay, and remembering that nearly the same route had been well charted l)y Dr. Rae, he thought it unnecessary to occupy his time and attention with astronomical observations on this part of the journey ; and for like reasons would dispense with compass bearings, taking care, however, to record the actual distances traveled. Ex2)erience strengthened his purpose of conforming to the natural custom of the Eskimos in making at tlie outset but short daily advances with heavily- y march, 1S69.I The Sledges Heavily Laden. 379 loaded sledges ; this was additionall)^ necessary to inure himself and party for a journey involving all the hardships and the length of time now required. A gale blowing with the force of 8 prevailed at tlie time of starting out ; it had tlie peculiarity of many Arctic storms in its being filled with drift for a few feet upward only, while " above all was clear as a bell." At 10 p. m., they completed the first ifjloo on the east side of North Pole Lake, and retired to sleep on a full Arctic meal. The quantity of food consumed by the party of eleven for their supper and for breakfast the next morning, was forty -four pounds, exclusive of coffee and molasses ; Hall says he allowed every one to eat as much as he would, and he himself ate as much as any one. In the morning, a heavy drift, with a cutting wind from the northwest, discouraged the Innuits ; yet the}^ went forward to please their leader. At this time he had loaded the sledges more heavily than on any of his previous journeys, for on weighing them accurately, he found that the gross weight of the sledge Grinnell was 2,724 pounds, and that of Bre- voort, 2,'^21, making an aggregate of 5,245 pounds, exclusive of the weight of any of the party who might ride. This was an average of 292 * pounds for each of his eighteen dogs when all the travelers walked. But the lame dog Sylvia was not at the first attached to either sledge, and for several days six of the others were missing; the rest were, at times, busy with their usual fights. The runners of sledge Brevoort — 16 feet in length, with a depth of 10 inches — were shod with slabs from the jaw-bone of a whale. Its seventeen cross- bars were each 2 feet 1 1 inches. *Lyon, in his Journal of the Hecla, under Parry, says that his nine dogs drew 1,611 pounds on a sledge of wooden runners, neither shod nor ieed, a mile in nine minutes; and that, hud his sled been iced, 40 pounds more could have been put upon it for every dog. Hall's loads exceeded Lyon's, and were for a long pull. 380 The Chronometers. imarch, 1^69. The second igloo was made on North Pole Lake where it narrows by a projecting- point of hmd on the east side ; and their third M^as on Christie Lake, close by the one made on the 5th of April, 1866. Hall was again much troubled }/m4mif^ by the repeated stopping of his chronometers,* DEKR-SKIN BOOTS. SKAL-bJvl.N FOUT-GHA 1{. SKAL-SKLN I'OOT-GEAK. which led him into errors in recording his dates ; he was unable to cor- rect these until the middle of the month following. To relieve his own weakened team, he and Fa-pa walked for some time in the rue- * His metliod of correcting his chrouoiiietcrs may l)c learued from the following notes (literally copied) made at the earlier dates of November 19 and 28 of a previous year : "November 19. — On arising this morning, I found to my dismay that my Eggert's chro- nometer, which I now use as my standard, had stojjped. My rule is: the 1st thing before rising in the morning to wind up Ward's chronom., whicli I keej) on my person (hiy & night, and then wind Eggert's, which I keep in a little tin trunk that sits on the bed-])latforin between my bed & the wall of the igloo. Fortunately I compared the chronometers on the 16th ; therefore this gives the basis for resetting my standard. Ward slow on M. T. Ft. Hope (present encampment) 5"" 17'' Ward hising per day 1.5^85 X 3 days to date (19th) =47''.5r) Subtract 3 seconds as I compare chrouometers at xi a. m. (approx.) 3* ^ -f- 45 19th— Ward slow on M. T. Ft. Hope, xi a. m 6'" .02 Long. Ft. Hoi)e W. Greenwich - v"" 47 .44 Ward slow ou M. T. Greenwich v .53 Compare clirououieters : 1st comparison : 2d comparison : Eggert V 3.54 v .5 Ward... xi 3 xi 4 6 .46 (■) 0,54 () 0.54 Eggert's fast on Ward C r.4 01' O-;" Eggert's fast on (ireen wich M. T "No dotibt there will now be a new rate for Eggert's, and this I must determine by some star or ))laiiet, as the sun is now too low for timt; ])uri)oses. The rate of Eggert's, previous to its running down, was — h)sing 2H«.6 ])er day." illarch, lSti9.J The Chronometers. 381 raddy (harness) alongside of sledge Grinnell. Ou-e-la here struck off to the west side of \he lake, to visit the spot where his brother Ar- too-a was drowned from his hi-a. Nu-lier-zhod's wife confirmed the account of the Franklin party as given by her in the previous year by pointing out the spot where she wath others had here seen the strange white men going south. His work was continued on the first favorable day -which followed (the 23d), thus : "At ixi^ 19"", by Ward's chronometer, the rising sun was shining on the upper part of Bea- con Hill, from the crest down some seventy-five feet. At ix'' "25™, by same chro., the sun's semi- diameter was above the crown of a hill about one mile to the southward and eastward, 100 feet or so above the level of the sea. My place of observation was on the top of the abrupt hill next to N. Pole River, directly opposite or northeast of Beacon Hill, and elevated, say, 75 feet above the sea. Compare chronometers, S*" 6™ 0^ p. m., by Ward's of this day (23d, civil time) : (23d) Eggert's, viiih C™ 0^ (G. M. T. on deducting 5"' 10«). (23d) Ward's, 2i' &^ 0' (Fort Hope M. T. on adding 7"> &■). WardslowonE 6 Now to determine (in the absence of any late astronomical obs. for time) whether or not Eggert's has the same rate since restarting it on the 19th inst. that it had before it ran down, I proceed thus : 1st comparison of chros. on the 19th was at xii^ 3™ a. m. by Ward or astronomical T . 18'^ 23'' 3'" 2d " " " to-day (23d) was at 2'i 6" p. m. by Ward or astronomical T. 23 2 6 [< 4 3 3 .(or4'J.1271) Interval betw. 1st and 2d comparison, using the former rate, Eggert's losing per day. 28.G X Loss m 4''. 1-271 r 11S.035 06 . r lit L 1- -58 Eggert's fast on G. T., 1st comparison 7" 8» Eggert's fast ouG. T., 2d comparison 5 10 Time by Eggert's on 2d —&" 6"' 0^ Time G. M. T. on 2d 8 50 Time by Ward's on 2d 2 6 00 Therefore Ward's slow on G. M. T 5 54 50 Long. Fort Hope west of G. in time 5 47 44 Ward slow on M. T. Fort Hope 7 6 Ward slow on M. T. Fort Hope (19th), 1st comparison 6"^ 2^ Ward rate 15.85 (losing per d.) multiplied by the interval 1st and 2d comp'n 4'i.l271 = 65".414536=:l°' 5«.4= 7 7.4 1.4 Computing Ward's gives the same result. The 2 chionoms. have probably maintained their old rates. 382 The Chronometers. [March, is69. The day following-, Hall succeeded in discovering the tracks of the missing dogs, brought them all in, and made up an equal team for each sledge. He was tempted to follow the Innuit preventative of Another way of gaining the same result. Tlic difference of tlio 2 chronoin. ou 1st comp'n (19th) fi'' 0™ 54^ The difference of tbo 2 chi'onoui. preseut date GO 54 Eggert's loss iu the iuterval 4^. 127 1 ( X 28.6 losing per d. ) llSd.Oa^ Ward's loss iu the interval 4 .1871 (X 15.85 losing per d.) 65 .41 52.62 1.38 Thus the difference in the results between couiputing the rate of Eggcrt's alone and api)ly- iug it to Eggert's as the standard, and that of computing the rate of both and .applying them to each resijectively, is only about one second and a half, or, as above, 1=.38. Without noticing the fevc seconds in the rates of the chronometers in the interval from ix'' 25'" a. m. to 2'' 6™ p. m. (both by Ward), I will proceed to comi^uto for the apparent time of sunrise tliis morning to this latitude, wliich is N. 6(P 32'. Let the basis be ix'' 25"" a. m. by Ward, the time when the sun had \ its disk above the hill to the southward &. eastward or astronom. time 22'' 21^ 25"' 0^ Ward slow on M. T. Ft. Hope 7 6 Astronomical time Fort Hope 22 21 32 6 Add long, of Fort Hope W. of G v 47 44 GreenwichM.T 23 3 19 50 Equation 13 18 Greenwich apparent time 23 3 33 08 Without going through the whole process, I will simply state that the result is the approxi- mate hour angle of the suu's rising, which is 2'' 3"' 12= or ix'' 56"' 48= a. m. apparent time. Now for precision take this latter time and work out the time the sun's centre would be ou the sea horizon if Ihere were no atmosphere, or, in other words, if there were no refraction: ixi' 56'" 48= a. m. of 23d, civil time, or 22'i 21'' 56'" 48» Fort Hope, diff. of long. W. of G v 47 44 G. api). time 23 3 44 32 (23-3.74) S. Dec. (23d.) 20" 25' 2j.5" 31".01 per h. 1 .''5.97 S. 20^ -..7' -i-iX," 74 115.977.4 1.55.97 Lat. 66'-' 32', tang .. 10.3(!2.384 S.Dec. 20°27i, tang.. 9..571.774 Cosine 9.934.158 2'' 3'" 2« hour angle. ix 56 58 a. ni. Time ap|iarenl sun's centre on the horizon not allowing any refiaction." siarch, 1869.] Tlic Slcds Re-iccd. 383 their running off, i. e., by tying up one of the forelegs to the neck. At 5 p. ni., doubhng up his teams, he ascended Ira-nuk-too, the narrow neck of land at the end of the mile-long lake which forms the water- ished between Committee Bay and Repulse Bay, and at G.50 encamped on the south side of Eae's Six Mile Lake. The travel was excel- lent, although the snow was soft and deep. Halting the next day near running water from Miles Lake, the opportunity was embraced of thawing out the whale-meat and tongue, 146 pounds of which, placed in the river, had the frost taken out in one hour; this was fed to the hungry dogs, and they were permitted a day's rest, as the snow in advance of them was discovered to be still very soft. From the top of a hill near by, the sea of Ak-koo-lee, with its vast extent of jumbled ice, was seen by Joe and Nuk-er-zhoo (Jack) — a sea, according to Ou-e-Ia, to which in olden times Innuits resorted in the fall to kill deer, on the meat of which they lived during the winter, brinffinff whale-blubber from Iwillik for their fuel. At 10.13 a. m., March 31, the party reached Cape Lady Pelly, the journey from the point last named having few items of interest. Musk-ox tracks, which once before had threatened to entice the natives off their route, were now plentiful on the banks of the sand- hills near the sea. "Jack" carelessly ran Brevoort sledge across a spit of gravel ; Grinnell followed suit, and both sleds were halted for re-icing, when the successful experiment was tried of re-mossing Grin- nell sledge with a mixture of snow-water and urine, the latter mak- ing the compound less liable to break up. At Point Hargrave a huge drift had been encountered, into which both sleds were compelled to plunge by the roughness of the ice close up to shore. These incidents held back the advance. In the evening, as soon as the igloos were up, 384 The Stores of 1866 Still Safe. [Aprii.iseg. one of the women set the lamps agoing and melted the sea-ice for water; the others covered in the huts, while Hall pounded up the whale- blubber. When he arrived at the cache which he had made on May 10, 1867, by transfer of his stores from their deposit of 18G6, he found them still in good condition; his notes, which give the time of this arrival to the exact second of the hour on the 2d of the month, record the expression, "Thanks be to God!" The bags of bread, sugar, coffee, flour, and " Borden-meal biscuit" were frozen fast in a mass, and in endeavoring to separate these, a large rent was made in a coffee- bag, sacrificing a small part ; another portion had become sodden by water finding its way from a sloping surface of rock near by into the rubber bag; these bags, however, had preserved the virtue of the larger part. The coffee had been presented by Mr. J. Carson Brevoort, of New York; it was browned and ground by Hall in the spring of 1866. The pemmican in the hermetically-sealed cans, the sugar and the brandy, frost-proof, were found in perfect condition; the tea was mouldy. The whole of these stores were at once removed to camp, and an excellent supper was set for all. Of the brandy, one tablespoon, sugar-sweetened, and with hot water, was served out to each, the dose being repeated in fifteen minutes. The remembrance of tliis article being in the deposit which he helped to make in 1867 had already ins})ired "Jack" when approaching the cache and in his work of unearthing it. For use on his return journey. Hall again made a deposit of part of the stores just named under the same rock at Cape Weynton which had covered them when left there in 1866. From the Cape he was now to turn his face westward to the long- desired King Wilham's Land ; but he at once experienced a renewal April, 1869.] Belays hy the Innuits 385 of the unwillingness of his Innuit party to go forward. They were tardy in making any preparations for advance; they made their old pleas of the necessity for their dogs being rested, and contended about the proper route to be pursued He says : " If I ever get to the end of my journey with such an untamable party it will be a great feat indeed ; they look to Joe also for an example, and he is taking life cosily and lazily." Under some uncertainties as to the best course on this first part of the westward route, Ou-e-la, on whom the main dependence was to be placed, preferred the one which he said had been formerly taken by himself and his father across the land from Colvile Bay; and "Jerry," the Pelly Bay native, concurring in this. Hall submitted to their direction. Starting again on the 4th of April, at 6.46 a. m., on a northwest course, he found the land very low and covered with snow, except where patches here and there had been laid bare by the winds. The weather became stormy and the travel heavy. The Innuits expressed their surprise at the ease with which he could direct their new course by the compass, and Ou-e-la again showed his native intelligence and his habit of observing time correctly b)^ halt- ing of his own accord at nearly the very moment at which Hall had told him he might halt when the chronometer-hand should indicate it; but the next day he was mistaken in his supposition that he could himself find the route, and was willingly guided by Hall's compass. On the 7th, the chronometers gave more satisfaction, running well by careful nursing. The course for the next two days was still to the northward and westward ; the land was still very low and gradually sloping. Descending the steepest of a few hills which they crossed, the party came upon their first small lake, and a little farther on upon a second, which Hall at first supposed to be Dr. Rae's Cameron Lake, S. Ex. Ii7 25 386 Near Cameron Lake. [Apru, iseo. but found his error before the close of another day. He had passed several deserted igloos and several Innuit stone monuments on the ridges of little hills, on one of which was found a knoll of solid rock, with Innuit stones set up in lines. The discouragements did not diminish. Some of the Innuits rode very freely upon the sledges, and "Jerry" suffered himself to be even caught on one of them fast asleep. Hall, who throughout all liis expe- ditions seems to have expected that every one would in some degree share his enthusiasm, singularly enough records here that the natives had no appreciation of his mission, but must continually lose time by stopping to smoke and talk ; yet he adds that it was surprising that the dogs could make any headway at all, as the sledges sank down full six inches all the way, and at one time stuck fast in a huge drift on the hill-side. Dr. Rae's chart was a guide to be fully relied upon, even without the aid of the compass. Hall accounts for a mistake which he thinks Rae made in regard to putting Colvile Bay on his map, by attributing it to the low and level character of the land where he expected to strike it. By Ou-e-la^s advice he made his fourteenth encampment on the 8th on the new lake which they had reached, Its Innuit name is Tep-suk-ju-a; Hall notes its trending to the north- west. Hei'e Ou-e-la very significantly said that this was the place where his father and the Repulse Bay Innuits made their halt before their meeting with the Pelly Bay natives. The next day, to make a more rapid advance, the dogs were fed at an early hour ; the whole amount supplied to them being, however, but 60 pounds — a half feed. The men of the party were ready for a vigorous start, for their strength had been renewed by a pemmican su})per the night before. The butter at the morning meal was the t(^8":v/ &H"flO:- (,1 00 '.n' KING WILLIAMS LAND Matheson 1. 9 b 31. Enci 5C^ ephercLB. , Jy T CjEot' f^. .^ '' «Efi stern Todd Id- C. Selkirk < Tivldld.. ^r'. RK'hardsoJi ---A>--- "~""A--/?v^V iV'jXJomTn^ttee Mounds ]n<>Us Bar 9^ "-S^'^^^c ^ 'Or^- ri~~-::::'^: . __.. JOURNEY TO KING WILLIAMS LAND 18G9 Grif1.rf^6ll'Ld1^'^-i ^-c^.. -^^ Orave^ ofxwo white, rrv&n. Monument e;-6ct«. ^^ r j. c aX. return.) to fear an attack irom tlie tact ot the well-known dissensions long existing between the men of his party and these strangers ; aware of which. Hall had provided each sledge with rifles, gtins, bayonets, revolvers, a musk-ox and a seal spear, and April, 1M69. New Acquaintances. 391 some ammunition. Still the heart of Pa-pa now failed him, and he wished to stop with the women in the camp, which proposition was declined. At 7.53 a. m., when the party again started, the sun was out, but the drift still filled the air, confining the view to a radius of a quarter of a mile. Following a north-northeast course, in a half hour they found Innuit foot-prints, which the gale of the night previous had laid bare ; they seemed to have been made the day before. After following for two hours the tracks on this course, the party retraced their steps to the point at which they had first seen the foot-prints, and on advancing in the opposite direction, the dogs soon scented the igloos and flew ahead with so rapid and keen a jump as to trip up Hall and Pa-pa, entangling one of Hall's feet and dragging him along till the company with their whole force stopped the coursers. Ten minutes later they arrived near the igloos, and "Jerry" was cautiously sent for- ward, but soon reappeared with the signal to come on. After a halt of twenty minutes in the gale and drift outside, old Timg-niih and wife and old Koh-hig appeared armed with long knives, but greeting the new-comers with a welcome. These men had remained at these igloos, while three families had located themselves a short distance northward, the men belonging to them being absent at this time on a musk-ox hunt to the westward. On Hall's entering the huts, with "Jerry'' and Pa-pa for interpre- ters, he began at once his usual inquiries about the Franklin Expedition. Koh-hig, like his brother, old Kok-lee-arng-niin the chief met by Hall in 1866, was sociable, jolly, and apparently kind-hearted. He was a dwarfish creature. In Tung-nuk^s igloo was found a gallon stone jug of a light pinkish hue weighing about 5 pounds, the handle broken. It was 392 More Franklin Belies, [April, 1S69. « without mark or stamp, but was said to have come from King William's Land. Hall also found a copper kood-lin (lamp), 2 feet 6 inches long and 1 foot wide, and about 5 pounds in weight; the end of a sword 4 inches in length; a snow-shovel 3 feet long, made of pine or spruce, evidently painted at first lead color, and over this a coat of white except that the lower face was of fresh wood color, and a piece on the left side was light green. This last article the Innuits said they got out of a ship's beam or plank at Ki- ki-tuk — King William's Land. On asking Tung- nuk about this snow- shovel, he said it came from a large ou-mi-en (ship). Was it there now! No; it had sunk. Did the ice break it? No; the Innuits, in getting wood (timber or beams) out of it, made a hole in the ship, and soon after, it sunk. The snow-shovel was made of material very much thicker than it is now. Timg-nuk had never been to Ki-ki-tuk (King William's Island), but knew a great deal about what had taken place therefrom his acquaint- ances who had been all over the island. The sword-point mentioned above was immediately bartered for. Tung-nuk told Hall that when the remains of the white men were INNUIT SXOW-SHOVEL. April, 1869.] Sufferings of the King William Natives. 393 discovered by Innuits on King William's Land, arms, legs, &c., were found cut off to be eaten, and the cut of the bone had always showed this to have been done by a saw. Koh-big said that all of the white men except two who were a long time ago at Ki-ki-tuk had perished. One of the two was Ag-loo-ka (Crozier), and both of these had certainly been seen by some of his (Koh-hig^s) friends. This last information made Hall greatly regret the absence of two of these, Too-shoo-art- thar-iu and In-nook-poo-zliee-jooh. The foniier of these, who was said to have taken some care of Crozier and his men when nearly starving, was now in King William's Land. The latter, who had been all over Ki-ki-tuk, and knew a great deal about the lost expedition, was, when last heard from, at the estuary of the Great Fish River, and was very ill. The natives of this bay and of Neitchille had lost nearly all their dogs the previous winter by the same Arctic disease which had swept off those of Repulse Bay and Ig-loo-lik. The people were in an almost starving condition, evident signs of suffering appearing within and without the igloos. Nothing like food was found but a few seal- bones with a trifle of rotten meat on them. There was no fire in the huts, and Hall's own company barely made out to gather a little of the fire-shrub from under the snow to aid in making their drinking- water. Old Kob-big told Hall, on taking leave of him, that it would take from six to eight days to cross the land to the western sea; that King William's Land could be seen from the land on the east side of the strait ; and that the island was low, and there were many Innuits on its eastern side. He said it was well that there was a w^iite man with 394 Simpson^ s Lake. [Jt^ru, iseo. these Repulse Bay natives, for it would save their lives before and after reaching the island. Hall's men were now plainly alarmed. Some unpleasant demon- strations, shown by Tung-nuk himself, had much to do with this, as it was known that he had lost a relative and "must kill somebody to make matters all right between him and his Grod." It had been said, too, that many Pelly Bay and King William natives had recently died ; — Superstition might put the cause of this on any one of Hall's party. His men were afraid either to go on or remain. But their fears were quieted and they continued their journey, though the provisions they thought would now run short, and a hunt for musk-ox cattle again wearied them without success. It was well that the sledges had been so heavily loaded on starting out on this journey, for Hall could still feed his party and give some food to these suffering natives, among whom was his old friend See-pung-er of 1867. On the 18th of the month he determined by astronomical observa- tions that his encampment (the twentieth) was on Simpson's Lake, lat. 68° 30' 22" N., long. 91° 31' W. Ou-e-la, who had been out on a two days' hunt for musk-cattle, came in at 4 a. m. quite weary, but successful. On discovering a bull browsing on Ellice Mountain, he had succeeded in getting within range, shattered the bones of one of the animal's fore legs, and, after firing into him all the balls which he had, shot his extra new rammer into the paunch: all these shots having only wounded the bull, so that Ou-e-la could but drive him several miles to the sledge-tracks and leave him there. "Jack" and Joe started off with sledge and dogs for the prize, returning in two hours with the whole ox, and also a small part of a deer, which Pa-pa had shot. The bull had tried to hobble off, but the dogs soon brought him April, 1869.J A Hunt for Musk-Cattle. 395 to bay, nearly tearing off his skin; a hunter's knife then ended the fray. At night he was dragged within a large circular wall and skinned and dissected, when a goodly proportion of the meat, fat, brains, nose, and paunch were quickly devoured. Only the women failed in shar- ing the feast; forbidden because the meat was not cooked. There being no spare oil for fuel for cooking, they were fed on pemmican, which Too-koo-li-too told Hall she disliked as much as he had disrelished wolves' meat on his journey to Ig-loo-lik. The Innuits now asked a rest from the journey to hunt more musk-cattle, as the animals would soon scatter. To keep the men in good humor, Ou-e-Ia and Pa-pa were allowed to go off on the hunt, while Hall pushed forward to Grinnell Lake, on which he encamped on the 22d. The two men met with some success, but Hall remarks that, as usual, "the greater part of what is killed goes down the paunches of these Innuits, although, before getting leave to hunt, the story always is that they want to get meat for the dogs. As for "Jack," he is a regular hog ; he eats far more than any two others, and feeds his own dog on the choicest pieces, without a shadow of feeling for others." Hall gave him full swing, so long as he kept his hands off the sledge provisions; these he rigidly rationed out, although he was thus prevented at times even from leaving the sleds, lest some of the party would stuff' themselves from the stores. On the 27th, he crossed a branch of Murchison River, and from this point made rapid progress over a level and hard field of snow, yet his company were again disheartened, thinking that if he went on fur- ther, they and the dogs would all starve before they could get back. But Ou-c-la soon found the tracks of a sledge which had evidently crossed Richards' Bay and returned. Despair was then exchanged for 396 New Igloos. [Apru, i869. bright and joyful faces. The last part of the day's journey being over an unbroken old floe with many hillocks, and the dogs being very weary, the twenty-fifth encampment was made among the hummocks. The next morning, to Hall's great grief, all at once his pocket chro- nometer utterly refused to go. Of this he said : " Few can imagine how strange I feel at the loss of my chronometer ; its constant ' tick-tick ' at my right ear I thought anything but music, but now I feel lost." His compass was very sluggish as they approached the Magnetic Pole : he allowed 80° for variation. During the day Shepherd Bay and Point Dryden came in sight across an extensive sea of hummocky ice. His highest expectations now were to find the natives whose sledge tracks from King William's Land had been seen. It was nec- essary, however, to tell his party that if he did not promptly succeed, he would let them stop all work and go to sealing, on which they went right to work making seal-harpoons. They were troubled about the dogs, which had become so ravenous as to gnaw the sledge-bars and destroy the moss-icing immediately on its being put on the run- ners, this kind of sled having been now fully proven to be superior to all others. On the 30th, an igloo was seen to the southward with its wall-shel- ter built to protect the sealers ; on visiting this, it was plain that it had been lately occupied, for fresh tracks of men and dogs were all around. Ou-e-la and "Jerry " were then quickly sent southward to find Innuits ; and at the end of a couple of hours, to Hall's great delight, signs were recognized from the two men that many inhabited igloos were seen. Pa-pa now became more frightened than ever, and, on conferring with the others. Hall agreed to stop behind the line of pressed-up ice, which they thought would be an admirable breastwork May, 18«9.J Intervieiv with In-naok-poo-zliee-jook. 397 if fighting- were to be done, for now a village was seen and a number of men with dogs sealing out on the ice. The next morning the party started out, fully prepared to meet friends or enemies. Each of the men had at first something to say like a prayer that those whom he met would be friends; in which Hall joined, praying also, as he says, that the interview might lead to much news of Franklin's lost companions, and perhaps "to the recovery of some souls and of the records." Within 150 fathoms of the igloos a halt was made, Hall, Pa-pa, and Joe staying by the sledges, while Ou-e-la, Jack {Nu-her-zhoo), and "Jeny " advanced a little way, with their long, sharp knives in hand. But the Innuits came out of their igloos and inter- mingled with the new-comers, on which Hall hastened forward and met the man whom he most desired to see — In-nook-poo-zliee-jooh The first question asked of this man was, '^Nou-tima Ag- loo-kar (Where is Crozier ?) And the first thing shown to Hall was a large silver spoon, with an eel's head crest (Frank- lin's; see Preliminary Chap- ter), that came from a large island where many white men died. An encampment was im- ivoky knives, kokk, anu spoons of innuit make. mediately made with the chief's people, who helped to put up igloos, in which they used knives which had belonged to Franklin's Expedi- tion ; they had one from McClintock's. The names of the men were taken down in a book, which act pleased every one of them at the outset, and the day was spent in talks with them ; the interpreters, 398 The Native Map of King WiUiam^s Land. [may, 1869. Too-koo-li-too and Ebierbing, soon getting used to their idiom. In- nook-poo-zhee-jook^s hut was full of articles from the ships, for a num- ber of which Hall at once bartered. This native gave him a sketch of King William's Land and its vicinity The names given by him for the numbers on his sketch were as follows : SKETCH OF KING WILLIAM'S LAND AND THE ADJACENT COUN- TRY, BY THE INNUIT IN-NOOK-POOZHEE JOOK. Kee-wee-woo. [Where one of the ships, Erebus and Terror, sunJc at Oolv-joo-Uk.) Oot-koo-iisli-e-lik. Great Fish or Back Kiver. See-er-ark tn. Noo-oo-tee-roo. 6. Olc-kee-jeer. 7. Ok-kee-jik-too. 8. Slioog-ee-look-too. 9. Too-noo-nee. {Where In-nook-poo- zhe-joolc found the two boats.) 10. Kee-u-na. {A small island where In-nooli-poo-zhe-joolc has seen tlie remains of five ichite men. The Innuits all believe that Too-loo-a {Sir John Boss) died and was buried here. (!) A meat-can unopened — that is, full of meat— found hi Too-looiCs grave. His remains wrapped in blankets, and his body unmutilated, while the four remainder icere — 10. Keen na — Coutiuued. that is, li7nbs had been severed and fiesh taken off the bones of the four. This island, one of Todd's Islets, off the south shore of King Will- iavi's Land. No boat found or white men died on Ki-ki-tUk-jHa {Montreal Island). Boat and the remains of a great many whites found on a very small island by the west coast of the inlet of which Point Richardson is the East Cape; this small island halfway down the inlet, where it turns sharply to the westicard. This islet tcithout a name.) 11. Og-buk. {Matheson''s Isle of Bae.) 12. Shar-too. 13. Koo-kar. 14. Ook-sook-too. 15. Igloo-le-archoo. 16. Point Dryden. After remaining at this village until the 8th of May, Hall set out for King William's Land, to visit a spot where, as he had heard, five of Franklin's men were buried. He could expect to make but a flying trip, as his party were detxnmined to return to Repulse Bay <^ <' _^ K-t s 21 e ,^s C- ^ X z r ?; 1—^ ^ L ^ X J—* /- 7: > — ^ 2 c c X -tT s 2" r .' > r "Z •t Ma)-, 1869. Hall Arrives at King William^s Land. 399 within the two weeks following-. Leaving strict charge with Ou-e-la as to rationing out provisions in case no seals were caught, he took with him only In-nook-poo-zhee-jook and Nu-ker-zlwo and wife ; the first named provingagood guide. "A plug ^^^ of tobacco was given to Jack to oil his mouth, as he had much talking to do LOWKR HALF OF DF.SK. to the dogs." The travel averaged two (Deposited at tl.e Sinitlisouian institution.) and a half miles per hour, and as night approached, the long-desired sight of the land and the Table-Top Hill on what was called Matheson Isle came in sight. Hall gave three cheers, jotting down on his note-book as he rode, " It is a glorious feeling I have, for I have PART OF DESK. been struggHng for this for ten years." ^^'^i'"''*'^' ttuutionlf'"'"'" '"" Coming to a group of four occupied igloos, he made his twenty-eighth encampment with them near Booth Point. In these igloos also there NEEDLE-CASE, KING WILLIAM'S LAND was quite a collection of Franklin relics, among which was a mahog- any writing-desk, 18 inches long and 10 wide, on which a bottom board had been put by the natives. It had been recently in use as 400 The Five Graves on Todd's Island. [May, i869. a blubber-tray. Koo-nik, one of this party, gave Hall a silver spoon like the one of which a drawing is found in the Preliminary Chapter of this Narrative, and a second smaller mahogany box, with another spoon and many other articles, including pieces of copper with two stamps of a broad arrow, and a steel spear-head on which was stamped " THE SHIP." All these had been brought from one of Franklin's ships and from the shore on the south side of Ook-joo-lik (O'Reilly Island). Knives, needles, thimbles, beads, and rings were given in return Going on from these igloos on the 9 th, In-nooh-poo-zhee-jook still proved to be an admirable guide, leading Hall on a direct course to the eastern islet of Todd's Islands. The compass at first showed that the travel was south, but before long it showed it as northeast when headed in the same direction. The weather was very thick when the next to the last encampment was made about 10 a. m., and supper was served on delicious fresh salmon of Neitchille, cooked and hot. On the 1 1 th, Hall encamped on one of these islets — Todd's Island — and immediately searched for the graves of the five men of whom the natives had spoken as buried on it. Its northwest end was very low and flat, and almost everywhere deeply covered with snow. He found part of a human thigh-bone, which appeared to have been fractured not long before ; In-nook-poo-zhee-jook told him this was part of one of the five men But the prospect of finding the other remains was aban- doned on account of the snow. Poo-yet-ta, a native wdio had gone on with Hall from his last encampment to this island, now said that the remains were not buried when he first saw them, but were found lying down all close together, each fully dressed and unmutilated. In the May, 1869.) The Bewiains of one of Franklin^ s Men Found hy Hall. 40 1 pockets of one of the men a jack-knife had been found, and alongside of the remains, cans with meat in tliem which was eaten by the Innuits. The next day Hall crossed over to the mainland to find, if possi- ble, the place where two more of Franklin's men were said to have been buried. Arriving near the mouth of Peffer River, the natives built for him a snow-wall to keep off the wind and driving snow, that he might take some sextant angles. But the sun appeared for a mo- ment only, and but once. Late in the afternoon two of his attendants, after much labor, gave him signs of success in digging through the snow for bodies, and on hastening up to them he found one unburied skeleton. Over these remains an American flag was raised half-mast, and a monument of stones built up near by to the height of five feet. A salute was also fired in honor of these remains as to those which Hall believed were the form of one "of the heroes who had solved the problem of the Northwest Passage." The gale above and the hardness and depth of the snow under foot debarred further search. (See the close of this chapter.) Returning from this examination of the coast of King William's Land, Hall made a second search on a point of the same southern shore, but farther eastward ; for, after close questioning the natives Poo-yet'ta, In-nook-poo-zJiee-jooh, and Tuk-pee-too a third native met with at his last encampment, he believed he might find the remains of still another of Franklin's men. After traveling about a half hour, the party halted on a long low spit, called by the natives Kung-e-ark-le- ar-u, on which the men last named "knew that a white man had been buried " This, however, was chiefly from the accounts which they had had from their people ; only one of these had ever seen the grave. S. Ex. 27 2fi 402 A Monument Erected to the Dead. [May, «869. The spot was pointed out, but the snow covered all from view. A monument was erected, and its bearings from Kee-u-na carefully noted. Going back to the thirtieth encampment, and renewing his inqui- ries of Tuk-pee-too and his wife, U-vee-shuk, he was led by these two to a place on the southeastern end of the island, some twenty fathoms from the shore, where the wife had seen some of the skeleton bones of the five men who had died there. Of the identity of the place and of her having seen skeletons upon it she was very certain. Hall, there- fore, erected a third monument and fired a salute in memory of the dead there. The remains which have now been spoken of as found by Hall, or as honored by his "humble tributes" at the places of tlieir burial, were all which his opportimity possibly afforded him time to search for and honor. He felt confident, during his stay with these natives, that, from a number of conversations and close inquiries (using in these McClintock's, the Admiralty's, and Dr. Rae's charts for the identifications of the places named), ho could now account for proba- bly 79 of the 105 men of Crozier's party from the abandoned ships. Their remains had whitened at or near King William's Land, and had, in some cases at least, been grossly mutilated by dogs. The sub- stance of some conversations with the natives of this region which led him to make this estimate of the number of the perished who can bo accounted for is as follows : The journal of May 5 says : " This evening quite late (for it wns quite dark in our i//Ioo before the fire-lamps were coaxed ablaze), In- nook-poo-zhec-jooh, Tcc-ka-ta, Ow-iverk, and some other Innuits of the place are present. I will now try and see if I can approximate the May, 1S69.) The Numher of Men Found in the Second Boat. 403 number of men in Sir John Franklin's Expedition that we now know from Innuit and other sources to have died shortly after Crozier {Ag- loo-ka) was seen by the four Innuits before referred to. In-nook-poo- zhee-jooh and the others agreed to make trial in giving the number, though they say it is impossible to be precise; they were ' very many.' He now gets his five men to hold out their fingers and thumbs to rep- resent the number of men found in that boat." Those represent ^„ There were two skulls in the boat the wlrite man (McClintock) had found before In-nooJc-poozhee-jooJc found it o And five he found outside ^ Not far from that boat he found another with three skulls in it and four out- side 7 On Todd's Island, buried ^ On south shore King Wilham's Land 2 If the number within and without the big tent be called 30 And we take into the account the large man with long teeth found aboard the shi2> And the foiu- men whose tracks were seen on the mainland near Wilmot and Crampton Bay We have — "- y^, . -.. 200 JJeduct two m the boat first found by McGlintock Deduct half the number probably overstated in the boat, west of Point Richardson 25 27 Reasonably accounted for ~T2 The Innuits were quite sure that the boat found at the west of Point Richardson was the same one that Ag-gloo-ha's party had when they met the four Innuit families just above Point Ilerschel. The notes of the day previous are: Evening interview witli Elc-l-ee-pccre-a, a Noitchille Innuit, who, with his family, removed to this village to-day. After the newly arrived piirty had com- pleted their ujloos and got them to rights, I proceeded to make a call, takin- Jack- 9, ^■i^sr' 404 The Natives who Visited Franldin^s Ship [May, ises. along with me. My ijarticular object was to see a glass bottle or jar, wliich In-nooJc-poo-zhee-jooJc had told me once belonged to Ag-loo-Jca's (Crozier's) company, and now jiossessed by one of the families that arrived to-day. Our first call was on the old man and his family. They had iiart of a hie 1^ inch wide and 2^ or 3 inches long, round on one side and flat on the other; this was sharpened on one end for use as a cold chisel or an adae. ETc-lcee-pee-rea had lived at Ook-joo-UTc (O'Reilly Island), and had heard the natives there tell about the ship that came to their country. The ship had four boats hanging at the sides and another was above the quarter-deck. The ice about the ship one winter's make ; all a smooth floe. A plank was found extended from the ship's side down to the ice. Gathering into an igloo my interi^reters Joe and Jack with In-nooJc-poo-zhee- jooJc, and putting before the last-named native McClintock's chart, he readily pointed out the place where the Franklin shij) sank. It was \evy near O'Eeilly Island, a little eastward of the north end of said island, between it and Wilmot and Crampton Bay. A native of the island first saw the shiii when sealing; it was far o& seaward, beset in the ice. lie concluded to make his way to it, though at first he felt afraid; got aboard, but saw no one, although from every appear- ance somebody had been living there. At last he ventured to steal a knife, and made off' as fast as he coidd to his home; but on shoAving the Innuits what he had stolen the men of the place all started oft' to the ship. The party on getting aboard tried to find out if any one was there, and not seeing or hearing any one, began ransacking the ship. To get into the igloo (cabin), they knocked a hole through because it was locked. They found there a dead man, whose body was very large and heavy, his teeth very long. It took five men to lift this giant kob-lu-na. He was left where they found him. One place in the ship, where a great many things were found, was very dark; thej' had to find things there by feeling around. Guns were there and a great many very good buckets and boxe^. On my asking if they saw anything to eat on board, the rei)ly was there was meat and tood-noo in cans, the meat fat and like pemmican. The sails, rigging, and boats — everything about the ship — was in complete order. From time to time the Neitchilles went to get out of her whatever they could ; they made their plunder into piles on board, intending to sledge it to their igloos some time after; but on going again they found her sunk, except the top of the masts. They said they had made a hole in her bottom by getting out one of her timbers or planks. The ship was afterward much broken up by the ice, and then masts, timbers, boxes, casks, &c., drifted on shore. A little while after this fresh tracks were seen of four men and a dog on the land where the ship was. In-nooTc- May, i8«9.] The Tcfit and Boat Found by In-nooh-poo-zliee-jook. 405 poo-zhee-jook, who had seen Eoss and his party on tliti Victory and Eae in 1854, knew these tracks to be kob-lu-nas^ ] the foot-inarks were lonji'. narrow in the mid- dle, and the prints lilie as if of the boots found in the two boats found on King William's Land. One man, from his running steps, was a v^eiy gieatr runner — very long steps. The natives tracked the men a long distance, and found where they had killed and eaten a young deer. Another native at this interview told nearly the same story of the ship and of the man found on board, adding that he was found d(;ad on the floor, his clothes all on; that the ship was covered all over with sails or tent stuff. The cabin was down below and not on deck. The time was about the middle of May or first of June. In-noolc-poo-zhee-joolc said that he had found a boat (a little way westward of the one found by Hobson), the planks, ribs, and all comjdete, and copper fastened. In the boat were a great many skeletons, the skulls with them. He gave me a douWe-bladed knife, with a white bone handle, very rnsty. It came from this boat. The boat had not been touched, and a great many papers and books and written stuff wen; in it. [These are all trash to the Inuuits; the winds and the weather had made destructive work with them. The Innnits would trample them under feet as if grass.] A tent was near this boat; it was on the top of some rising ground on a small sandy hill. The place, as pointed out on the chart, was near the bottom of Terror Bay, a little way northerly of the point adjacent to Fitz James Inlet. The tent was large, and made with a ridge-pole resting on a perpendicular j)ole at either end; small ropes extended from top of the tent at each end to the ground, where the rope-ends were fast to sticks driven into the ground. Three men, one of whom was Tee-kee-ta, first saw the tent. It had in it blankets and bedding, a great many skeleton bones and skulls, the tiesh all off; nothing except sinews attached to them; the appearance as though foxes and wolves had gnawed the flesh; some bones had been sawed with a saw; some skulls had holes in them. Besides the blankets, were tin cups, spoons, forks, knives, two double-barrel guns, pistols, lead balls, a great many powder-flasks, and both books and papers written upon. As these last were good for nothing for Innuits, the men threw them away, except one book, which Tee-ka-ta brought home and gave to the children ; after a while it got torn to pieces. On asking Tee-kee-ta whether Ag-loo-ka (Crozier) had a telescope about him when he visited one of the tents of the Innuits, he rephed : 406 Ag-loo-kd!s {Crazier) Visit to the Innuits — 1848. [iway, is69. " The first time Ag-loo-ka came lie did not come inside ; next morning he entered one of the tents of the four famihes who were there en- camped by tlie west shore of King William's Land, a little way above Cape Herschel (as pointed out on the chart). His telescope was hung about his neck. Ag-loo-ka and his men had come along, the men dragging a large sledge laden with a boat and a smaller sledge with camp material and provision. Close by the Innuits they erected a tent ; some of the men slept in the boat, which was left on the sea-ice all the snow being off the land. On Ag-loo-ka' s first meeting with the Innuits he had a gun in his hand ; on seeing him lay it down, the In- nuits laid down their spears. Then Crozier walked up and said, " Tij- mof" ^'- 3Ian-ik-too-meef at the same time brushing his hand down their breasts and shaking hands, Koh-lii-na-wny. The time was late in the spring — July, Joe and Hannah said it must have been, for the sea-ice was nearly ready to break up; the sun was in sight all the time ; ducks, now-yers, &c., all in abundance in the pools and lakes. Tce- kee-ta saw Ag-loo-ka kill two geese, and his men were busy shooting. Ag-loo-ka tried very hard to talk to the Innuits, but did not say much to them. He had a little book as he sat in Ow-er's tent and wrote notes. The full meaning of what he said about the ice destroying the ship and his men dying was afterward understood. He ate a piece of seal raw, about as big as the fore and next fingers to the first joint. He wore no sword. He then said he was going to Iwillik (Repulse Bay), making motions with his hands in that direction. One of his men was very fat, the others all poor ; one man with one of his upper teeth gone, and one with marks on the saddle of his nose, and one man squinted, or cross-eyed. The Innuits left them although supposing that they were abandoning starved men. Mar, IS69.1 Hall Compelled to Return. 407 Hall reproved these men sharply for leaving Crozier. Does it not, however, seem probable that these few natives feared that Crozier's large party would starve them out. The final Return Journey was now begun. The natives who had gone over with him to the islands were as anxious to get back imme- diately to their people as had been Ou-e-la, and even his own two fiiends, Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, to be safe at Repulse Bay. Hall, therefore, was forced to give up a journey which he had con- templated at least as far as Terror Bay, on the west side of King William's Land. It was the place where " the tent was once found, the floor of which was completely covered with the remains of white men." But it was now urged upon him that it would be time spent in vaiij even to cross over to Point Richardson to seek the place of the boat found by the Innuits soon after Ag-loo-ka's party were seen just above Cape Herschel, for the land there was so low and so deeply covered with snow it would be impossible to tell sea from land ; Nu-her-zJwo (Jack) said that unless they started back to Repulse Bay within four days, the snow and ice would be off the sea of Ak-koo-lee and they would have very great trouble. On the 16th, Hall had returned to his twenty-seventh encampment of the outward journey, where he had left nearly all the party who had come out with him from Repulse Bay. All the way back he was regret- ting that he could not search for a cairn of which his guide had been talking at his side on the sledge. He was sorry on his arrival to find that the natives with whom he had first met at this encampment were absent sealing ; Too-koo-li-too, however, had rejoiced at their going, as they had become on Hall's departure bold and threatening. A family of 408 elics at Inglis Bay. Beli [mar, 1869. four, which was to include In-nook-poo-^hee-jook, had settled a bargain with Eek-clioo-ar-cJioo (Jerry) For a return to Repulse Bay. Hall's provision stores had been used, as onl}' four seals were caught ; but enough reir:niii((l for a hopeful supply until on the homeward jour- ney tlio liuius wouhl be resumed. The loads on tlie sleds would be increased by the family which would go, and additionally by the relics Hall would take, to which OO KOO-SUK— INNUIT STONE POT. hc foUud WOUld bC added such articles as a stone lamp and stone pots and kettles, bar- gained for by each of the women to take home. He Avonders whether some one would not have purchased a dead elephant to take along if it had been the country of elephants. One of the native women of the igloo village had given birth to a large, healthy babe, which the mother, on finding that it was not a male, had destroyed by throwing it away. Still holding back his men. Hall now went off with the same two compatiions that had gone over to Todd's Island, determined to learn more of the dead men, and especially to find the natives who last saw Crozier and his party. Arriving at the place on Inglis Bay where, on his journey out, he had made a deposit, he again found relics in abundance, among which were a piece of a mast 14 feet in length, and oak and })ine blocks, besides a part of a boat; these he placed upon the sledge. In long talks with the natives he learned interesting news of their last meeting with Ag-loo-Jca, the substance of which, further noted in full in his little journals, will bo found at the close of this mar, 1869.] Writing on the Sled. 409 chapter, where his own summing up of the results of this journey is quoted. The flying trips made for these last-named talks cost him more than fifty miles of travel. When the sun on the 18th was 14° 30' high he wrote once more in his igloo: "I find on my return all the rest still in bed ; we now have coffee, pemmican, and bread ; come, balmy sleep ! " On the 20th, the Return from this point to Repulse Bay began. The party now consisted of fifteen persons and the team of eighteen dogs, Ou-e-la's having come back to them after a stray, on which it had eaten the murdered babe ; for this act it was not permitted by the natives for some days to do any work. In-nooh-poo-zhee-jook's tested ability as S*^^P» um^ J &» A PAGE FKOM ONE OF THE FIFTY-EIGIIT NOTE-BOOKS OF THIS JOUKNKY ;— WRITTEN ON THE SLED. 410 Hall Again Sick. [June, 1869. guide determined Hall to keep no special account of courses, but to use carefully the opportunity of getting- from him and his driver, Nu- Jcer-zJioo all further information possible as they rode along. The page here reproduced from the note-book of the day shows how Hall set down, even when on the rough sleds, what he thus industriously elicited from his Innuit acquaintances. The last two lines of the page are an indication of frequent experiences. The sled, though heavily laden, was so well iced by In-noo-poo- zhee-jook that for some distance it ran easily over the soft snow. The thermometer read 28°. By the 28th of the month, the nineteenth en- campment of the outward journey was again visited, and its cache, made April 17, was opened; Brevoort sled, left at this point, was now also taken up. The Pelly Bay natives were found to be thriving on their recent hunts A day's talk was again held with them on the sub- ject always uppermost in Hall's mind. ^ June 3, Hall rested near Dr. Rae's McTavisli Hill, the party hav- ing had the comfort of feasting again on fresh deer-meat in place of their long-used pemmican, and the discomforts of sleep- ing in a roofless hut, and of seeing when they arose, the heavens thick and gloomy, the snow falling, and a wolf prowling near them. Hall was beginning to pass through a severe sickness of some days, which made him abandon a purpose to direct his course to Point Sieveright, fur- ther to the north, on the sea of Ak-koo-lee, iiKi.r AM> TAnu';T-(H)yKi{s kou tiii .NOTICS. June, i!-69.] Beturn to Cape Weynton. 411 to inspect a monument of which Ou-e-la had more than once spoken as having been built by white men since Dr. Rae's visit of 1854. Of his sudden and serious attack, he afterward wrote : "It seems all as a dream. I found myself on a deer-skin within the roofless circle snow-wall of our Jcom-mong, surrounded by my attentive men, all wear- ing an anxious look, until a large dose of the essence of peppermint restored me at a time when I had thought the very life was fast ebbing." This, it may be added, was not his only experience on this expedition of a sudden and unaccountable illness : premonitions of the sudden and final attack of 1871. Just before reaching Cape Weynton, Pa-pa shot a "mother-deer," which fled, leaving the fawn to have its life "footed out"; the Innuit pressing down one foot heavily over the young heart. At the Cape, a cache of presents was left for See-pung-er, in return for his help in lay- ing up blubber and meat during the winter of 1 867-68 ; and then Hall bade a final farewell to the point which now he had three times visited. From this date the chief remaining items of interest which are noted in the jottings on this sledge travel through the warm month of June are to be found in the repeated and successful hunts of the musk-ox. From the 6th until the 13th of the month slow advances were made, for it was but hunt after hunt. As many as fifty musk- cattle were at one time seen in bands on the hill-sides. In one battle twenty-one were slain, IJall killing three with two balls, which were found lodged in the third, and Hannah herself killing four young ones. Hall wrote : " My work has been severe and protracted, and I need relaxation : therefore, I go in for the hunt." Nor could he have restrained his Eskimo party, if he had desired it, for the cry of "Oo- 412 Provisions Abundant. [June, 1869. ming-mung''^ always unfitted tliem for anything else than the chase, even when they knew it would not be necessary. Game was thrown right in their path. The country all the way from King William's Land was full of it ; and as Hall wrote these words, and remembered that much small game — as geese, partridges, and mar- mots — had also been seen before reaching- HORNS OF A MUSK-OX SHOT BY HALL, ^ JUNE 8, 1869. Qape Weynton, he added : "0, that I could have met Crozier and liis party twenty-one years ago with the facili ties I have had on this journey. I am sure I could have saved the whole company. I say it with no egotistical feeling, but with a confidence of what I know of the country." The proof of what he thus says of his own " facilities " — i. e., the friendli- ness* and aid of the natives as interpreters, guides, and hunt- ers — was afterward found in the simiming up of the prizes se- cured on this trip ; for when he arrived at his old encampment on Repulse Bay, the footings LADLE MADE FROM THE HORN OF A MUSK-OX BY NICITCHILLE NATIVES. (Presented to Hall as to an aii-ge-ko by an Innuit mother as pay for ciuiiig her sick child.) "But, as has been already noted, he had, some time before this date, discovered from the confession of the Neitcliille men that their friendliness to Crozier had soon exhausted itself. They had let him and his i)arly starve. Hall had sharply rebuked their selfishness, and his last hope of Crozier's living any length of lime after his starting from the ships had died oiit. But it must be remembered that Iho few Innuits who found Crozier may have been alarmed lest the number of the white men would exhaust their own scanty supplies. Self-preservation may have caused their slipping off in the night. June, 1869.] Tlw MusTi-Ox Hunt. 413 read: "Musk-cattle killed, 79; deer, 18." The skins of the musk- cattle weighed 873 pounds. The weights in gross of the two sledges from the date of May 28, including the weight of provisions, heavy boxes of Franklin relics, the musk-ox meat and skins, and the passengers who rode, had sometimes exceeded 300 pounds for each dog of the team. The striking points of the most suc- cessful of the musk-ox hunts are illustra- tive of Innuit customs and of the habits of HORNS OF A D1>R SHOT BY HALL, the ox when attacked. The fight was at ise^ the place marked on the map of this chapter as Encampment No. 44, where two bands were successively seen. When the first of these was surrounded, as soon as they perceived that the dogs were slipped, tliey formed into their usual one circle of defense, "a musk-bull battery of nine solid battering heads and twice the number of sharp- ened horns." The dogs were quickly at these heads, barking and jumping back and forward, while the hunters made no haste to ad- vance, for they knew that the bulls would stand their ground all day if no other enemies came. "After a few minutes' watch of the movements of dog versus bull and bull versus dog," the old hunter, In-nook-jwo-zhee-jooL went forward to within twelve feet of a large bull, can-ying a lance which had a line attached by which he could draw it back; but at liis second throw, the wounded and infuriated bull made a fearful forward plunge, from -the effects of which the hunter and his companions escaped only by a ver}' timely jump to the left The bull was soon again brouo-ht to bay. Ou-e-la then pulled trigger on another "noble bull of the circle 414 The Musk- Ox Hunt. [June, 1869. of defense, and Pa-pa sliot the one whicli had been hinced, when at the noise of these guns the whole circle bolted away except two, who stood their ground side by side long after the whole fight was ended, and even when the dogs were driven away from iheni and stones had been thrown. Instead of moving, each of these two kept throwing his massive head down between his fore feet, rubbing the tip of each Jane, 1869.] Letter to Mr. Orinnell. 415 horn against the fore leg as one would rub a razor on a strop. This is the animal's habit unless he finds himself, when attacked, near some large stone which he may use for the same purpose of sharpening his horns. The work of death upon the others of this band and upon the second band, was completed by the rest of Hall's men with guns, spears, and the bow. On the 20th of June, 1869, this three months' journey was ended by Hall's arrival at his old quarters. After a friendly talk with the natives of the bay on whose shores he and his party were again safely quartered, he promptly wrote out for his friend Mr. Grinnell a letter which might reach the United States before he himself could return. It so fully states the facts of this weary but most important of his journeys, that its proper place seems to be at this point of the history. Letter from Capt. C. F. Hall to Mr. Henry Grinnell. Eepulse Bay, Jime 20, 18G9. Dear Sir: This day I have returned from a sledge joiu-ney of ninety days to and from King William's Land. It was my purpose (and every preparation was made) to make this journey last season; but my attention then having been called to Mellville Peninsula, in the vicinity of Fury and Hecla Straits, where native report had it that white men had been seen, I directed my expedition there by way Am-i-toke, the Oo-glit Isles, and Ig-loo-lik, with the ardent hoi)e and expecta- tion of rescuing alive some of Sir John Franklin's last companions. The result of my sledge journey to King William's Laud may be summed up thus : None of Sir John Franklin's companions ever reached or died on Montreal Island. It was late in July, 1848, that Crozier and his party of about forty or forty-five passed down the west coast of King William's Land in the vicinity of Cape Hcrschel. The party was dragging two sledges on the sea-ice, which was nearly in its last stage of dissolution : one a large sledge laden with an awning- covered boat, and the other a small one Inden with provisions and camp mate- rial. Just before Crozier and party arrived at Cape Ilerschcl, they were met by four families of natives, aud both parties went into camp near each other. 416 Results of tJiis Journeij [jnue, i869. Two Eskimo men, who were of tlie native party, gave me much sad but deeply interesting, information. Some of it stirred my heart with sadness, intermin- gled with rage, for it was a confession that they, with their companions, did secretly and hastily abandon Crozier and his party to suffer and die for need of fresh proAisions, when in truth it was in the power of the natives to save every man alive. The next trace of Crozier and his party is to be found in the skeleton which McClintock discovere. IS69.1 The Unhnried Bead 417 make a summer search over that island, which, from information I had gained from the natives, I had reason to suppose wouhl be rewarded by the discovery of the whole of the manuscript records that had been accumulated in that great expedition, and had been deposited in a vault a little way inland or eastward of Cape Victory. Knowing as I now do the character of the Eskimos in that part of the country in which King William's Land is situated, I cannot wonder at nor blame the Eepulse Bay natives for their refusal to remain there, as 1 desired. It is quite i)robable that, had we remained there as I wished, no one of us would ever have got out of the country alive. How could we expect, if we got into straitened circumstances, that we would receive better treatment from the Eskimos of that country than the 105 souls who were under the command of the heroic Crozier some time after landing on King William's Land? Cotild I and my party with reasonable safety have remained to make a summer search on King William's Laud, it is not only probable that we should have recov^ered the logs and journals of Sir John Franklin's Expedition, but have gathered up and en- tombed the remains of nearly 100 of his comjianions ; for they lie about the places where the three boats have even found and at the large camping-place at the head of Terror Bay and the three other places that I have already mentioned. In the cove, west side of Point Eichardson, however, nature herself has opened her bosom and given sepulture to the bones of the immortal heroes who died there. Wherever the Eskimos have found the graves of Franklin's companions, they have dug them open and robbed the dead, leaving them exposed to the rav- ages of wild beasts. On Todd's Island, the remains of five men were not buried; but, after the savages had robbed them of every article that could be turned to account for their use, theii' dogs were allowed to finish the disgusting work. The native who conducted my native party in its search over King William's Land is the same individual who gave Dr. Eae the first information about white men having died to the westward of where he (Dr. Eae) then was (Pelly Bay) in the spring of 1854. His name is In-nookpoo-zhe-joolc, and he is a native of jSTeit- chille, a very great traveler and very intelligent. He is, in fact, a walking his- tory of the fate of Sir John Franklin's Expedition. This native I met when within one day's sledge journey of King William's Laud — oft' Point Dryden ; and, after stopping a few days among his people, he accompanied me to the places I visited on and about Iviug William's Land. I could have readily gathered great quantities — a very gi-eat variety — of Eelics of Sir John Franklin's Expedition, for they are now possessed by natives all over the Arctic Eegions that I visited or heard of— from Pond's Bay to Macken- S. Ex. 27 27 418 Franklin Belies Brought from King Williain^s Land. [Juue, 1869. zie Eiver. As it was, I liad to be satisfied witli taking upon our sledges about 125 pounds total weight of relics from natives about King William's Land. Some of these I will enumerate : 1. A portion of one side (several planks and ribs fast together) of a boat, clinker-built and copper-fastened. This part of a boat is of the one found near the boat found by McClintock's party. 2. A small oak sledge-runner, reduced from the sledge on which the boat rested. 3. Part of the mast of the Northwest Passage shij). 4. Chronometer-box, with its number, name of the maker, and the Queen's broad arrow engraved upon it. 5. Two long heavy sheets of copper, three and four inches wide, with countersunk holes for screw-nails. On these sheets, as well as on most everything else that came from the Northwest Pas- sage ship, are numerous stamps of the Queen's broad arrow. 6. Mahogany writ- ing-desk, elaborately finished and bound in brass. 7. Manj' pieces of silver-plate, forks, and sjioons, bearing crests and initials of the owners. 8. Parts of watches. 9. Knives and very many other things which you, Mr. Grinnell, and others in- terested in the fate of the Franklin Expedition will take a sad interest in inspect- ing on their arrival in the States. One entire skeleton I have brought to the United States.* The same year that the Erebus and Terror roere abandoned one of them consum- mated the Great Korthicest Passage^ having fire men aboard. The evidence of the exact number is circumstantial. Everything about this Northwest Passage ship was in complete order. It was found by the Ook-joo-lik natives near O'Reilly Island, lat. 68° 30' N., long. 09° W., early in the spring of 1849, frozen in the midst of a floe of only one winter's formation. Unvi^illing to leave any means untried which might add to what information he had gained on King WilHam's Land, at Todd's Isles, and on the return journey, Hall kept up numerous inquiries of In- nook-poo-zJiee-jook, even after the date of this letter to Mr. Grinnell. An example of his conversations now held, will show his manner of questioning, in order to elicit hopefully the truth from this native of whose accuracy he sometimes speaks distrustfully. In Book B, for- * After much ]iosit.ancy as tliouffli he niijiht have done -nroiig in this, some time after his return, Hall placed the carefully-iireserved remains in the charge of Mr. Brcvoort, of Brooklyn, who transferred them to Admiral Iiiglcfield, 11. N., to ho forwarded to England. Suhseriuently (by the plug of a tooth) the skehiton was identified as the remains of Lieutenant Vcscoutc, of the Erebus. (Sec Geographical Magazine, liOndon, for April, 1878.) July, 1869.] Conversation with In-nooh-poo-zhee-jook. 419 warded after his return (as has been noted on page 339), for Lady- Franklin's perusal, he had written: Friday, July 2, 1869. Interview trith In-nooh-poozhee-jook ; Hannah my interpreter. Time, about noon. — My first words are tliat I am about to leave this country for the Uuited States of America; I wish him to tell me the particulars he can think of relative to the white men who died, many years ago, at Ki-ki-tnk, and of the boats he found on that island ; of the ship he has also told me about before, that came down to Ook-joo-lik, &c. I also add that I wish him to be very particular to tell me just what he remembers; to tell the truth and the truth only. Question. Who were with you when you found tliose two boats ? Answer. His brother's son Oo-ar-zhoo, now dead; Ool-jrik, EJc-kepe-re-a, and his own son, Neer-kood-loo. The party of men numbered five, and their families were with them. They were making a tour on purpose to search after such things as they could find that belonged to the white men that had died on King William's Land. Question. What particular time of the year was it? Answer. Thinks the time of the year about when we returned to this baj- encampment, — June 20. Water had begun to make on the ice, and water is a Uttle later making there than here. Snow and ice were inside the boats, and all around.* Question. Did the boats look as if anybody had visited them within two or three years ? Answer. Somebody had been to one of them, for everything was gone out of it. Question. What did you find in the other boat — the one that the white men (McClintock's party) from Ik-ke-hi-suk (Bellot Strait) did not find ! Answer. Six paddles ; many table-knives, white handles ; one watch ; a spy- glass that his son has, a little longer than Joe's — something like my compass, but no glass about it; tobacco that had been wet and was in flakes or thin pieces; very many tin dishes; one whole skeleton with clothes on, — the flesh all on, but dried; many skeleton bones; three skulls. Alongside of the boat a big pile of *In a previous conversatiou Ihe native had said that he had found the boats in 1861. "After seeing Dr. Mac on his outward journey (1854), he came down to Iwillik and staid there three winters; then he spent, at Pelly Bay two winters; then he spent on Neitchille one winter; and, the following .spring, went to King William's Land." Whieli Hall reckoned up thus : Kepulse Bay, three winters, or 18o4-'.j5, l855-'r)6, and lH5(5-"57 ; Pelly Bay, two winters, or 1857-'5S and 1858-'59; Neitchille, one winter, 1859-'60 ; King William's Laud, one winter, 1860-'61. Then in the spring of 18, 51 found the boats. 420 The Second Tent and the Boat. [juiy, iseo. skeleton bones that had been broken uj> for the marrow in them; they were near a fire-place; skulls among these. The number of them ama-sn-ad-loo (a great many) — cannot tell how many. It is certain that some of the men lived on human flesh, for alongside of the boat were some large boots with cooked human flesh in them. [Hannah here told Hall that from all which had been said by In-noolcpoo- zhee-joolc and the other Innuits met with at tbe twenty-seventh encampment of their late journey, she was satisfied that after Orozier's party left the place where the two boats were found and the large tent at or near the head of Terror Bay, the starving seamen who remained at or about the boats no longer restrained themselves from satisfying their hunger. The Innuits do not believe that human flesh was used by Crozier or by any one about him.] Hall adds in regard to the boat : The sledge-runner I have (deposited after his return at the Smithsonian) is part of the sledge on which was this boat which the white man did not find. Question. Did you see any papers with marks on, the same as I am now making ? Answer. No; but saw a gi-eat many like the paper of the book by my (Hall's) side (McOlintock's Voyage of the Fox). Question. What was the size of the tent ! Answer. Never saw the tent itself, but only the tenting-place ; judging from the appearances, the tent nnist have been as long as to the fm^ther end of Ar-mouh tent from where he was sitting. (Hall measured this distance to be 22 feet.) The tent was on some rising ground, fro ir-j>K^' (sandy), overlooking the sea, about as far off' as an islet pointed out — half a mile. Three graves were near the tenting-i)lace. On showing In-nook-poozhee-jooh the large Admiralty chart, he pointed out the place of the tent on Terror Bay, and said that when his party visited the tenting-place thej' i'ollowed the coast around to the northward and westward until they arrived at the extreme west point, and then turned to the eastward, where they found at last the boat which the white man from Ik-ke-hi-suk (Bellot Strait) had foilnd before them. Further on, about half a mile (as he now shows by the islet before referred to) they found the other boat. The distance from the boats to the tenting-place could be made by a smart walk throughout a long day, following the coast-line. When he first found the boats (in 18G1, as made out by Hall), the ice between Cape Crozier and Admiralty Inlet was very rugged and heavy, but the next year it was all smooth. He thinks from the kind of ice seen July, 1869.] McClintocJc's Revolver. 421 on this second visit, that there is occasionally a season when a ship can sail through that strait (Victoria Strait). In-noo1c-poo-zhec-jool- further said that before he ^'isited Ki-ki-tuk (King William's Land) a Neitchille Innuit found a large knife under some stones; and he pointed out the place as Livingston Point, south side of Latrobe Bay. Question. Was not this knife placed there by some Innuit? No. Did the white men from Ik-ke-hi-shuk place it there! No; but those white men did put some things on the land in another place ftir off from there: among them a small gun (like Hall's — a revolver). These things the Innuits found and took. Koorif/- on-e-loo1i, at Pellj' Bay, has the revolver. " Had I known this," adds Hall, "when 1 met Koongoii-e-loolc at our thirty- seventh encampment on Becher River, I would have got sight of this stolen revolver which Lieutenant McClintock so unfortunately deposited in the land of thieves. The Neitchille Innuits will steal whenever they can get a chance — even one Innuit from another. When I escaped from this latter evil on my late sledge journey to King William's Land it was because ' Jerry ' told Jj^/t-A-ee-fa (Jerry's own cousin) to tell all the Innuits about us when at that twenty-seventh encamp- ment, near Cape Dryden, that they must not steal from the white man (that is from me) or from any of his (my) men; because if they did they would get terribly i)unished if they ever came to I wil lik, and saw any ship here. This was a sharp, commendable trick, of 'Jerry's' own invention, and it had a most desirable result." Fuller details of like conversations held about this time, and of some of those held on King William's Land and on Todd's Island, will be found in paper C of Appendix IV. The inquiries and the test questions appear to have been generally close. Instances in which Hall expresses a doubt as to the consistency of the statements made by the natives have been omitted from the extracts, and Arctic travelers will best judge of the value of those which are given ; they will remember that natives, when compensated for their talks, may have willingly extended them. Hall certainly liberally paid his friends for their services. He gave NuJcerzhoG, in 1869, even his boat Sylvia for accompanying him to Ki-ki-tuk, and found that he must 422 The Voyage to the North Pole again Contemplated. [Juiy, iseg. now buy it back if the whalers did not come to take him home. He writes, however, fairly in all cases for or against himself — for or against the character of his information from the natives. With the unwilling consciousness that he could accomplish nothing of further research in the Frozen Regions, he had now to think of a Return to the United States ; purposing there to collate and publish the results of his protracted Arctic experience ; then to make his long-meditated voyage to the Pole; and, if possible, afterward revisit King William's Land. In regard this last, he writes : Day after day I have been reading and re-reading the books I have with me on Arctic voyages. How my soul longs for the time to come when I can be on my North Pole Expedition ! I cannot, if I would, restrain my zeal for making Arctic discoveries. My purpose is to make as quick a voj'age as possible to the States, and then, at once, make preparations for my Polar Expedition. I hope to start next spring with a vessel for Jones' Sound, and thence toward the North Pole as far as navigation will permit. The following spring, by sledge journey, I will make for the goal of my ambition, the North Pole. I do hope to be able to resume snow-hut and tent encampment very near the Pole by the latter part of 1870, and much nearer, indeed at the very Pole, in the spring following, to wit, in 1871. There is no use in man's saying, it cannot be done — that the North Pole is beyond our reach. By judicious plans, and by having a carefully selected com- pany, I trust with a Heaven -protecting care to reach it in less time, and with far less mental anxieties, than I have experienced to get to King William's Land. I have always held to the opinion that whoever would lead the way there should first have years of experience among the wild natives of the North : and this is one of my reasons for submitting to searching so long for the lost ones of Frank- lin's Expedition. The expression of such purposes, including that of a subsequent return to King William's Land, is certainly remarkable, as coming from one whose sledge journeys only, during the five years which now closed upon him, exceeded the aggregate of four thousand miles. A willHngness "to resume snow hut and tent" would seem explicable July, 1869.] The Coast-Line of Repulse Bay Completed. 423 only by supposing- that next to the lofty ideas with which his mind enthusiastically invested every thing Arctic, was the extreme of a strange fascination with the uncouth life he had been leading. He says himself, at about this same date, that there was nothing in the way of food in which the natives delighted that he did not delight in, and that this may appear strange to some, but was true. He had that day "a grand good feast on the kind of meat he had been longing for — the deer killed last fall ; rotten, strong, and stinking, and for these qualities, excellent for Innuits and for the writer." The six weeks which immediately followed his return to the bay were occupied in completing a sketch of Talloon Bay ; in hunting with the natives and in sharing for a time a double tupik with eleven of them ; in Arctic study and meditations on his next Polar journey ; and in preparing for shipment the bone from the whale cached the year previous. He spent several days in surveying, and completed the coast-line by a survey of Talloon Bay, but under trying disad- vantages. No whaling-vessels could be reasonably expected to anive before the first week of August, nor was it at all certain that any would come in during the season. He had, therefore, again to think of the boat journey whicli might become necessary to York Factory, the difficulty of making which journey in the frail Sylvia had been con- sidered the year before. No lack of provisions would now be a bar to this voyage, for he had well husbanded his old stores, and the addi- tions made on his recent sledge journey were themselves in excess of all present need. "Really we have been blessed, greatly blessed, in the way of provisions. The amount prepared for and acquired on our 424 Provisions Abundant [Jniy, i869. late sledge journey was overwhelming ; now there is a considerable sufficiency to take a party from this place to York Factory." These stores were still, however, closely husbanded, and all reliance for the supply of immediate wants was safely placed on new hunts for the deer, the seal, and the walrus. Salmon fishing was also hope- fully looked for. Nor were any of these expectations disappointed. The natives from Iwillik, including also some from Pelly Bay and Ig-loo-lik, repeatedly divided themselves into parties for hunting and sealing, and brought in abundant returns. Even Tn-nooJc-poo- shee-jooh surprised Hall by his quickness in learning the use of the rifle ; and Nu-ker-zJioo one morning slipped quietly from his bed and killed two large ook-gooks. Hall bartered with him for the meat of one of the four which he had killed during the season, in noting which he says, "the skins, blubber, blood, and meat of these animals (especially the first) are very vahiable ; lashing-lines, draught-lines, seal and walrus lines, and the soles for kummins (boots) being made from them." The total weight of one animal was 1,500 pounds. A large number of salmon also were at difi'erent times secured near Beacon Hill, the fish measuring from 27 to 32 inches in length, and weighing each as much as 1 3 pounds. In the beginning of the season they were caught by hook and line from the margin of lake-ice near the shore, where a space had been melted aAvay by the radiation of heat from the adjacent land What gave him the utmost annoyance was the almost entire demoralization which this very abundance brought upon the natives. They stuffed and stuffed till all their provision was gone, and when they could get no more they were ready to starve. Three-fourths of their food was eaten for the mere gratification of eating; nothing but jTuir, 1869.] Arctic Temperatures. 425 feasting and feasting, when possible, was the rule. The worst of the matter was not, however, their sleeping at midday, and devoting the rest to mirth, games, and this feasting; but their making the hunts the occasions for promiscuous concubinage, one example of which will suffice. On the 13th of the month, "Jerry," going off on a hunt in one direction, took with him Ar-movJs wife and three children, while Ar-moii, in exchange, took ''Jerry's" number one wife with her infant as companions on his hunt on a different course ; both parties, as was frequently the case, extending their absence, and leaving Hall to support wives number two, as well as the families of others who had gone off, providing them literally nothing to eat. It must be added also, with regret, that like exchanges became habitual while all parties were in their snow huts ; and that Hall found it impossible to restrain entirely even his own Eskimo man. Hannah said she " would rather die right away than stay at the bay," and Hall then promised her that she and Joe should return to the United States with him. The Arctic Temperature during the month of July was high, and rains and storms were frequent. The first day was gloomy, with thick dark rain clouds and a light wind from the southeast ; the thermometer reading at noon 4S°. Through the night of the second and most of the third, fourth, fifth, and sixth the rains were heavy ; the storms coming generally from the south, southeast, and northeast. The tenth, eleventh, and twelfth were hot days, although the wind was from the north-northwest; the lowest readings of the thermometer were at night 40°, 43°, and 46°; and the highest at noon (at 3 p. m. on the twelfth) were 60°, 65°, and 71°; — temperatures spoken of as very 426 Mosquitoes as Torments. [Juiy, isen. uncomfortable for Arctic denizens A storm on the 19th was accom- panied by sharp hghtning. The plains were now purple with the wild saxifrage {Saxifraga oppositifolia) ; its beautiful flowers followed by those of other floral tribes, clothed the earth with carpets of gold, crimson, blue, white, pink, and straw color. The Andromeda tetragona, so often named as the shrub-fuel, itself bore pretty flowers. Hall's collection of wild flowers embraced a dozen varieties. Mosquitoes flrst appeared on the 7th of July, and afterwards on his trips to Talloon they were exceedingly troublesome. He records an experience of one walk : The sun was about 5 degiees higli. Not a breath of air stirring, the sun shining hot, and the mosquitoes desperately intent on getting all the blood of the only white man of the country. I kept up a constant battling with my seal-skin mittens directly before my face, now and then letting tliem slap flrst on one and then on the other of my hands, which operations crushed many a foe. It seemed to me at times as if 1 never would get back. Minutes were hke hours, and the distance of about two miles seemed more like half a score. At length I got back to my home, both temperature and temper high. I made quick work in throwing open the canvas roof of our stores, and, getting to our medicine-chest, snatched a half-pint bottle of mosquito-proof oil, and with a little of this besmeared every exposable i>art of my person. How glorious and sudden was the change. A thousand devils, each armed with lancet and blood-pump, courageously battling my very face, departed at once in supreme disgust at the confounded stink the coal-oil had difiused about me. The questions of the way of return to America remained an unceas- ing anxiety. In case no vessel should come into the bay, it was quite uncertain whether he could get any of the Innuits to accompany him on a boat voyage down the Welcome from which to proceed to York Factory on Hudson's Bay, or even to seek in the Welcome for a ship which might be bound for the United States. " Other matters also, July, 1869. The Bone of the Third WliaJe Gummed. 427 in this connection, weighed lieavily on his mind : — to attempt to reach the Factory in such a frail boat as the Sylvia along a well-known most treacherous coast and without even a chart of it: — Could he even with a trust-worthy crew commit his notes and journals of what he had acquired relative to the Franklin Expedition by five years' adventurous life among a savage people to the fortune of so desperate a boat voyage." As for the whalebone and musk-cattle skins, his Arctic library and other things of personal value, he thought it his duty to abandon them if compelled to make such a voyage; the relics, manuscripts, and documents being the only things of which he earnestly desired the absolute safety. An almost equal anxiety was found in the attempted recovery of the whalebone cached the previous year. Several searches were early made with probings and much labor down into the ice and snow, but these were premature. On the 15th of the month a successful opening was secured. The hu^e snow-bank over the lonD--covered bone had yet melted only enough to expose the tips which still stood upright ; but when recovered from its icy bed the bone was sledded overland to a point opposite the usual anchorage of the whalers ; and, after many days' work, Hall found that he had gummed with assistance from the natives 534 slabs, weighing nearly 800 pounds. On the sale of this and of some of his musk-ox skins he depended for the payment of such costs of the expedition as were not yet provided for, especially for the payment of the sums due to the four white men of his party of 1868. And now the final relief for all anxieties appeared even earlier than he had looked for its coming. On sighting the Ansell Gibbs, of New Bedford, August 5th, he entered in his journal, "It is now certain I shall not be obliged to make the dangerous boat journey to York 428 Hall, Hannah, and Joe on Board Ship. [August, iseo. Factory; God be praised, for he dotli continually bless me." A few days after this, such stores and provisions as would not be needed were liberally distributed among his Innuit friends, with whom he spent a whole night in feasting and in a last talk about the lost ones of Franklin's Expedition. In the morning, four boats, manned by the natives, carried out to the Ansell Gibbs all the bone, and with it sixty- eight musk-ox skins, and all the journals and note-books of this five- year Arctic residence. At midnight, Hall, with Eskimo Joe, Hannah, and her adopted child Pun-na, were safe on board Captain Fisher's vessel, bound for a short cruise down the Welcome, and thence to the United States. In noting his leave-taking of the Innuits, he records some strong expressions of a regret at parting from those with whom he had companied so long ; adding that they had learned to call him " father," and that for their gakes he would try to persuade the Hud- son Bay Company to establish a factory on Repulse Bay, as an enterprise hopeful of good to both parties. He was now certainly well prepared to judge of this, for his acquaintance had extended itself to a number of tribes inhabiting the middle region of the Conti- nent, and to this acquaintance was added his previous two years' expe- rience with those on the east side — on Cumberland Gulf — as well as his visit to Greenland. The Ansell Gibbs left Repulse Bay on the 13th, but remained at and near Whale Point, (the spot on which Hall had hoped first to land in 18G4,) until the 28th, Captain Fisher here employing his crew in further boat expeditions in search of whales. Hall and Ebierbing fre- quently engaged in hunting on shore, securing a large number of deer. Including the net products of a Polar bear, also killed by the two Aiisugi, 1S69.] Adventure ivitJi a Polar. 429 liimters, the total Aveiglit of meat placed on board the ship for their crew fell but little short of 3,000 pounds, the result of nine days' work. The story of a hazardous adventure with the Polar on the 2Gth is thus told: Having made some astronomical observations, I commenced computing them, and Lad not been long occupied before Joe cried out '^Ni-noo! Ki-noo!''^ wlien at once I dropped pen and journal and jumi)ed out of tent, and took a look in the direction Joe pointed, which was to Whale Point; and surely there was the "i\-i-«oo." We watched it for a moment, and saw it walk about, make a plunge into the sea, and then return to the land, wlien it walked up on the liill- side of Whale Point and then lay down. We were not long getting ready for the prospective adventurous bear-hunt. I say adventurous, for in truth we knew it to be so. We had no dog and no spears with which to defend ourselves in case our fire-arms failed to kill outright on the first shot; and then, to make matters more ixncertain, our percussion-caps could not be depended on ; quite a proportion of them fail to take fire. If we should happen simplj' to wound the bear, that would make it furious, and there was no telling the end of its human slaying. It might, as we all thought, make its way to the tent during the absence of myself and Joe, and before we could come to the rescue of Hannah and little Pun-na they might be killed by the wounded and enraged monster beast. With all this no very flattering view of the case we con- cluded, however, to go for the hunt. As Joe and myself got about half-way to Whale Point we began to think that the large dirty white mass we saw on Whale Point and took to be the recumbent ni-noo, Avas a large rock; but we kept on our windings and let the ridges of rock-land hide us from view as much as possible. At length we came within a hundred yards of the sleeping big lion of the North, and then behind a gentle sloping hill we watched him. At the same time we were busy putting our fire-arms in comi)lete order for the forthcoming fray. I had buck-shot in tl;e left of my double-barrel ; so this charge I drew forth and replaced it with an ounce ball, and then 1 was ready for a double shot if the case needed it. Our huge rock pi'oved to be the bear after all, as we readily i)er- ceived on arriving at the place where we stopped to get our arms ready. As we watched ni-noo, we noticed that every few minutes he would raise his long- necked liead, turn it this way and that, — look all around, sniff the air, — and then replace it flat down on the smooth rock-bed on which he was then napping. A fresh breeze was blowing from the southwest, and every now and then my Joe kejit plucking out little tufts of deer-hair from his dress, lifting them up. 430 HaJl Lmids at New Bedford, Massachusetts. [September, isea. and giving them to the wind, to be sure that we were keeping our persons aloof from all possibility of the bear scenting us. All sand on and about our boots was caretully brushed off, so that our last stragetic advance toward the bear might be made without making any noise, for all our precautions and movements were needed to be from sharper forethought and ready wit than are required in deer-hunting; so we acted accordingly. At length, at the end of half an hour, Ave left our final preparation spot, and, under the shelter of the rocks, stealthily, slowly, and, I must confess, with hearts thumping pit-a-pat, advanced directly to- ward the still sleeping, but now and then awaking, beast of the icy wilderness. Every few steps we would raise the heads of our low-bended bodies to catch a view of the awaking of our foe until we finally reached the spot we desired, which was within easy gunshot. It was quite certain that we had the bear to kiU outright, or he would kill us if only wounded ; for on the discharge of our arms we should have nothing whatever with which to defend ourselves. The time came when signals passed between myself and Joe ; he fired, and the next instant the charge from my right barrel followed. Joe's ball penetrated the brain through the skull in front, knocking the bear stiff"; mine ploughed its way through the jugular of the neck. So ni-noo was twice killed instantly. It proved to be a she-bear, very fat, but without a particle of anything in her paunch. We skinned and quartered and placed all underneath the skin, close by a rock, and ready for the Ansell Gibbs. The whaler left the Welcome on the 28th, passed through Hud- son's Bay and Straits without the occurrence of any incident of unusual interest, and came into the harbor of New Bedford, Mass., Septem- ber 26th. When nearing the light-house off Nantucket, Mass., Hannah and jind her child doffed their native dresses for those of a civilized land. At the Parker House, New Bedford, Hall made his last journal entry : " September 26, 1869, 2 p. m. : — How thankful to High Heaven ought my poor heart to be for the blessed privilege of again placing my foot upon the land of my country." He immediately telegraphed his arrival to Mr. Henry Grinnell, expressing his hope of seeing him in a few days in New York. Within the next month, he was at work in that city for tlio North Polar Expe- dition of 1871. Conclusion. 431 CONCLUSION OF THE NARRATIVE. It will not be expected that Hall's biography will be found here. His three Expeditions, together with the weary labors of the years of preparation which preceded each, are his true memorials. The Nar- ratives of his first voyage and of his third (the Polaris) sufficiently dis- prove the idea which has been sometimes hastily expressed that he was an ignorant and visionary dreamer; and the impress on the minds of an}^ who may inspect the precise and often graphic journals of the years with which the present Narrative has had to deal, will be that which the evidences of a frank truthfulness create : the manifestation of an indomitable will, energy, and perseverance in the devout pursuit of a single object. He believed it attainable, and believed himself called to it as to his life-woi'k. The testimony of one who, next to the late Mr. Grinnell, could most justly estimate his character, is emphatically clear on tjie points that "Hall was a single-minded trusting man, who believed that others were like himself His enthusiasm concerning his favorite objects was extreme and abiding, and gave tone and color to all his words and acts. His very want of general knowledge and his defiencies in spe- cial departments of science made him more fit for an explorer than a scholar or scientist could have been. He looked upon explorations and all which appertained to the increase of geographical knowledge as far above all else ; and this childlike or single purpose explains the man's career. The more information he could gather, the happier he 432 Puhlic Tributes to Hall. felt. It was, indeed, the disappointment produced by the obstacles thrown in his way on his third Expedition, which probably caused his death on the Polaris in November, 1871." With this estimate, delib- erately formed by Mr. Brevoort, of Brooklyn, from personal and close acquaintance, the judgments of a number of other friends have been found to coincide. In preparing this Narrative they have been the more willingly received in the lack of all personal acquaintance with Hall. Official and public acknowledgments of Hall's worth have freely appeared — in the language of the National Academy of Sciences before quoted, in the appointment conferred on him by the Executive of the United States in 1871, in the award of the gold medal made by the Paris Geographical Society in 187H,^ and in the courteous tributes paid at his grave by the late English Arctic Expedition under Captain Nares. The extreme discomforts, exposures, and labors incident to a residence among the Eskimos were not unforeseen when he entei'ed on even his first Expedition ; and his experience then must have led him to anticipate that greater trials would be his lot on a second and longer banishment from civilized life. But he avowed, as has been seen, a vv^illingness to remain out for a term of even ten years, if this should prove a necessity. He must have felt that he could trust his two Eskimo friends throughout a protracted stay in a country in which they would find themselves among their own race, and yet it is surpris- ing that, even with their unchanging help, he could control unharmed so many of the Innuits, subordinate their chief, Ou-c-la, to his purposes, and, with such slender resources, secure the success he attained. His * For a fac-aimile of this medal and a translation of the report made by Mr. V. A. Malte Brtin to tin> iSoc'idtd dc Oeoi^rapliic of Paris, who conferred it, see ('lin])ter XXV of the "Narra- tive of the North I'ohir Expedition of 1H71." Honest Becords. 433 notes say : " Nothing but an experience of years could enable me to control such untamable eagles." Unquestionably, the known presence of the whalers in Repulse Bay had much to do with his maintenance of authority, and next to this was his abiHty to supply the wants of the natives when suffering; and yet, perhaps, above both of these must be placed his politic concession to their low prejudices and his self-control. Very frequently in the journals appear proofs of his hasty judgments, and of suspicions of evil intended against himself by the whaling captains as well as by the Innuits ; but as frequently appear also proofs of his repressing such feelings, and recording his regrets at his having given place to them in his notes or in his heart. The nu- merous delays experienced by his restless spirit from the indolence and especially from the superstitions of the natives— delays at critical times too— were trying to his temper. They were placed to the wrong account when they gave room for his imagination to credit them to purposes of evil design. But his feelings were naturally stirred with something besides pity when he found himself unable to obtain proper subsistence in the hut or move forward on a journey, because the Innuits would neither eat nor suffer others to eat a certain kind of food on a given day, or work until a certain time had passed :— To estimate all of which aright, Hall must be thought of as a single white man, alone among the degraded and habituating himself to such degraded modes of life with them as can be excused only in the light of his subordinating everything to his one purpose, and the necessity of his so living in order to avoid the visits of scurvy.* * In coufirmatio^ of the opinions just expressed, as derivecl from Hall'sjourn.als, the foUow- ing extracts are given, by permission, from the jonrnal of Mr. William Crane, jr., of Baltimore Md., who in tlie summer of 1837 visited Hall from the Era, commanded byCapt. Geor-e E Tyson' "Thursday, Auomt 15, 1867.-At 12 m., took in sail and ran in under jib and foresail into a S. Ex. 27 28 434 Mr. Crane's Visit to Hall at Repulse Bay, 1867. It will be a harsh criticism which pronounces his judgment defect- ive, or its exercise hasty. He demonstrated the correctness of his belief in the possibility of living for a long period out of the pale of civilized life by his own passing through such a term without extreme suifering or any long illness. He was not, then, far out of the way in judging that some of Franklin's men also might have been found so living, and even for a period of ten years. His ability, industry, and perseverance, manifest in the endur- ance of so long an absence from the endearments of country and home and in his subjection to the revolting customs of the degraded around him, are vet more manifest in the victories over what again and ag-ain cosy harbor formed by three small islands at the head of Repulse Bay, lat. 66° 26' N., lon<^. 86° 22' W. Mr. Hall's (the Arctic explorer) tent and quarters are on headland to the westward of us. " Friday, ^M(/MS< 16, 1867. — * '■ * * Coming aboard at 4 p. ra., found the ship crowded with natives ; the lirst I have seen. Mr. Hall and party, sent out by Mr. H. Griunell, of New York, came aboard and were hospitably received. Accepted an invitation to visit Hall ashore ; shall probably do so to-morrow. Conversed for fully an hour with the explorer. Found that he had read almost everything that had ever been written on the subject of Arctic exploration. Judging from his conversation, I should not call him an educated, but certainly an intelligent man. "Saturday, August 17, 1867. — Called upon Hall as I was returning from an expedition to the mainland. His tupik, or seal-skin tent, was pitched not very far from our anchorage, on the side of a rocky headland called by the natives Tita-tow-yak-loo-lik (Bloodless Laud), and which I subsequently discovered was the southernmost point of Melville Peninsula. When I visited Hall ashore, I found him "at home" amid the usual i-epugnant accessories of Arctic life, clothed in Innuit costume, seated & la Tare on a deer-skin rug ; an Innuit squaw on one side and her liusband on the other. An intelligent looking native dog crouched lazily at his feet. These three companions, the Esquimaux man, woman, and dog, I was afterward informed, had been the explorer's constant and faithful adherents in all his perilous wanderings. Hall's quarters in no wise differed from the Innuit habitations generally. Their interior presented fully as repul- sive a spectacle as I had ever witnessed in any African hut or Indian wigwam. I was told by him thiit tliis mode of life was entirely from choice, and that in accommodating himself to it lie w.as only preparing for future struggles against the rigors and perils of this frightful climate. He said that ho felt capable of enduring severer hardships than (!ver he liad yet undergone, and was satisfied that in accustoming himself to native habits iind native diet he was adopting the only sure method of escaping tlu; great Arctic curse — scurvy. During our short sojourn in Re- l>ulse Bay I had repealed long and interesting conversations with him. He had then just re- turned from a long sledge journey to the westward, and was c c 13 O c« H p] :z: O a; o o n c 2: 2; M n H Pi ) The Eskimo Tombstones at Groton. 447 Ou-se-gong was a cousin of Joe and wife of Kud-lup-pa-nmne, known by the whalers as "Abbott." Captain Budington brought these two Eskimos from Cumberland Inlet to New London in 1866; on their return with him the next year, Jeannie died on the voyage. Two smaller headstones put up for Hannah's children have on them the inscriptions : TUKE-LI-KE-TA : Died Fel) 28. 1863. Aged IS months. And ' SYLVIA GRINNELL EBIERBING. (Purina.) Born at Igloolik July, 186(). Died March 18, 187.->. "Of .inch in the Kinf/dom of Heaven." She was a survivor of the Polaris Expedition under Commander Charles Francis Hall, and was picked up with 19 others from an ice floe April 'M), 187;{, after a drift on the ice for a period of one hundred and ninety days and a distance of over twelve hundred miles. On a visit to these graves, when making inquiries of Eskimo Joe in regard to some facts for use in tliis Narrative, he was observed to 448 t/be's Love for Hannah. kneel at Haimali's grave and carefully weed out the long grass. Then turning to his visitors, he said, "Hannah gone! Punna gone! Me go now again to King William's Land ; if have to fight, me no care," Over the grave of the faithful Hannah, the interpreter of each expedition, and the friend who wept at Hall's burial, has recently been placed an elegant granite headstone, with the monogram J. & H. and an Inscription, designed for her by Mr. J. J. Copp and other true friends. Note. — The usual appellatiou, Eslcimo, has been retained for Joe and Hannah throughout this Narrative because they were found to be so named in Hall's journals and by those who knew tbem while they were in the United States. It has been learned only while printing this last page that Captain Hall said these two and their people so disliked the name Eskimo as to be oflended when they heard themselves so called, instead of Innuits. It is perhaps an interesting question whether this preference for the name Innuit is to be attributed to any tribal antipathy to the natives residing further east in Greenland. It would seem to confirm the judgment of Mr. Dall, quoted on page 62 of the Narrative. For further instructive comparisons of the races occupying the Northern Section of the Continent see " Tales and Traditions of the Eskimos," by Dr. Henry Eink. Director for the Danish Government in Greenland. London, 1875. 4.^\ oy 0~lr^ /v^ crtj-. From a photograph by T. W. SmiUie, Washington, D. C. lleVuttyjK Printint, C'u., Ilntu, APPENDIX I. ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE BY C. F. HALL ON HIS SECOND ARCTIC EXPEDITION, 1864-1869. 449 APPENDIX I. ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS, 1864-1869, NOTES ON THE OBSERVATIONS. Hall took witli him iu 1864 two sextants, a box and a pocket chronometer, several compasses, and a dip-circle; the last instrument and one of the sextants being loaned to him from the United States Coast Survey. From the experience of his first expedition, and from some further practice in the use of instruments after his return to New York, he hoped that he would succeed in making some observations of scientific value, as well as extend the knowledge of Arctic geography. In considering the observations here given, due allowance will be generously accorded for errors for which he was not fully responsible. His own frank state- ments of the extremely defective condition of his instruments have been more than once noted in the preceding pages. His sextants were soon out of order. The silvering of their mirrors iu the Arctic winter cracked off, and their screws and joints loosened by the inequality of expansion. He did not consider the work done, with even the Coast Survey pocket sextant, good work ; and often expressed the regret that no labor or ingenuity of his could remedy the defects caused by the influences of the Arctic exposures to whi^h all of his appliances were subjected. The dip-circle was broken in 1864. The chronometers showed themselves, at first, to be good time-keepers, but the roughness unavoidable iu handling and trans])orting them across the ice-floes soon disturbed their rates ; and in the last year of the expedition they more than once ceased to run. The compasses were doubtless good ; his perplexity in regard to their work arose, perhaps, chiefly from changes in the direction and force of the magnetic influences in regions subject to sudden and powerful fluctuations. After making due allowance for the error of taking some of his observations in the vicinity of 451 452 HalVs Astronomical Observations. iron, it may be safely admitted that, for the most part, the discrepancies which will be found noted in the following pages are to be credited to the irregularities in terrestrial magnetism. Notwithstanding many and frequently recurring difficulties, Hall evidently lost no opportunities of securing observations for determining position as accu- rately as possible. The observations which follow have been computed from his journal entries, principally for use in constructing the maps which, with his notes and other data, supplement his surveying work. The computations have not been made with the precision demanded for observations unaffected by such lai'ge con- stant errors ; yet the reduced observations furnish data for determining the lati- tudes of places in the Arctic Zone but little known, and, in some cases, entirely unknown previously to Hall's visits. ASTEONOMICAL OBSEKVATIONS MADE DURING THE YEARS 1864-'69. [Reduced under the superintendence of Mr. K. W. D. Bryan, late of the Polaris Expedition ] July 29, 1864— Entrance to Hudson's Straits. July 31, 1864.- -Hudson's Straits — Continued. h. ni. s. / ,/ h. m. a. / „ 3 51 47 7 0- 4 23 30 92 35 2Q- i 05 30 17 30 Elevation 20 feet. 28 37 Small sextant. 10 30 20 34 37 14 20 40 34 Lat. 61° 32'. 9 N. 19 19 21 18 30 Lat. 61° 5'.9 X. 7 43 47 3 35 69 15 68 20 2 0. At 9'' chron. slow on ship's 4 3 119 30 to right to Cape Kesolu- 48 50 68 5 chron. 5'' 25°'. 16 30 118 15 tiou. 49 5 67 50 20 117 50 59 50 65 45 23 117 20 8 1 5 45 50 27 30 15 64 30 6 17 42 21 Q. 6 37 15 18 30 15 Vessel on course WNW. 7 45 Long. 66° 51'.7 W. 20 24 20 45 41 5 45 true, 3 knots per liour. 1 1 25 35 40 August 3, 1864 Hudson's Straits. I 26 31 30 30 35 10 Chrou. slow 4'' 57'". 32 40 5 Lat. 61° 8' N. h. m. .s. 1 /' 33 40 Lons. 64° 7' W. 4 21 29 31 45 37 38 37 30 14 feet elevation. 6 22 10 100 30 to right to Cajjc Kesolution. 33 30 35 30 23 10 20 37 35 Lat. 61° 31'.3 N. 27 28 40 50 99 50 40 29 40 30 8 42 42 16 39 28 3 27 56 £2- 12 feet elevation. Chron- slow on (}. M. T. l" 31'. JULT 31, 1864. —Hudson's Steaits. Long. 67° 6'.9 W. h. m. 8. o / -/ August 5, 1864.— Hudson's Straits. 4 17 20 92 37 38 2Q. Artificial horizon. Large sex- 25 30 39 tant. h. ni. 8. ' " 31 40 Chron. slow on ship's chron. 4 25 44 54 Q. 37 38 .'>''21"; shin's chron. fast on 28 30 55 20 feet elevation. 41 30 32 30 (J. M. T. 2-.6. 30 55 4.) _ 30 37 53 Lat. 6]° 42'.C N. ] HaWs Astronomical Observations^ 1864. 463 Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-69 — Continued. August 5, 1864.— Hudson's Straits— Continued. August 11, 1864.— Hudson's Straits— Continued. Ii. m. s. 7 7 20 9 20 10 25 o / " 36 55 42 39 14 feet elevation. Chron. slow on G. M. T. 6" 1».6 Long. 67° 13' W. h. m. 8. 4 49 45 57 40 5 4 10 6 12 o ( /; 41 43 46 47 48 47 £2- 20 feet elevation. Small sex taut. Large .sextant. Lat. 63° 0'.9 N. 8 16 12 17 50 19 10 20 20 21 20 29 54 44 34 26 20 4 54 20 5 20 10 10 14 41 49 50 50 49 August 6. 1864.— Hudson's Straits. 7 31 25 32 25 33 23 40 27 41 30 42 35 43 30 35 30 25 20 34 45 40 35 30 h. m. 8. 3 7 10 3 10 30 1 It 42 16 21 20 feet elevation. Long. 67° 59'. 3 W. Chron. .slow on G. M. T. 6" 9'. Lat. 61° 45' N. Ship on course NW. by W. 3 knots per hour. 3-45 changed course to NE. 4 26 31 44 36 36 August 14, 1864.— Hudson's Straits. h. m. 8. 5 35 36 45 38 o f n 43 43 iO Ka AK 17 feet elevation. Lat. 60° 58'.2 N. August 8, 1864.— Hudson's Straits. h. m. 8. 2 37 30 o / // 38 57 20 feet elevation. Chron. slow on (t. M. T. 6"35». Ship'.s course N. 10 W., true. 3 knots per hour. Lat. 62° 14'. 3 N. Long. 69° 46'.9 "W. O to left to iceherg. Iceberg to left to North Bluff 640 34'. North Bluff by C. N. 40' E. Var. 57°.9 W. August 15, 1864.— Hudson's Straits. 4 14 30 24 7 5 7 12 15 43 20 27 25 8 5 h. m. s. 5 34 37 , „ 42 7 7 30 20 feet elevation. Lat. 61° 32'.3 N. 2 37 30 93 47 August 16, 1864.— Hudson's Straits. h. m. 8. 5 33 35 37 43 46 48 30 o / // 40 59 41 3 6 20 feet elevation. August 9, 1864.— Hudson's Straits. h. m. s. 4 7 30 11 20" / // 42 17 23 20 feet elevation. Chapel, observer. Hall, observer. Lat. 62° 43'.8 N. 6 Lat. 62° 14'. 1 N. August 17, 1864.— Hudson's Bat. 9 10 15 25 40 33 39 21 29 39 45 46 b. m. 8. 6 29 1 II 40 23 12 feet elevation. Chron. slow on G. M. T. 8'" 36'. Lat. 62° 3'.1 N. Long. 88° 19' W. 8 53 25 55 30 30 55 30 43 August 11, 1864.— Hudson's Straits. | li. m. 8. 2 43 25 44 35 46 51 10 52 30 53 30 o / /; 33 58 36 4 10 32 38 43 18 feet elevation. Ships steering NW. by N. August 18, 1864.— Hudson's Bat. h. m. 8. 4 18 30 29 20 33 20 34 35 o / // 37 32 38 18 30 35 20 feet elevation. Chron. slow on G. M. T. 8" 45". Long. 89° 59' W. 454 HalVs Astronomical Observations, 1864. Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-'69 — Continued. August 18, 1864.— Hudson's Bay — Continued. August 26, 1864.— Depot Island— Continued. h. m. R. O 1 II h. m. 8. / // 5 47 40 30 Q- 3 25 61 40 and ]) . 54 30 33 26 30 61 39 56 58 40 25 32 31 6 3 30 3 38 5 81 11 2 5-- 4 30 30 47 35 79 44 5 30 29 6 15 28 Lat. 620 8'.8N. 3 41 45 55 63 63 38 2E!. August 21, 1864.— Depot Island. and 5 . h. m. s. o / /' 3 42 20 61 33 30 5 44 75 38 2Qi. 43 19 33 50 38 30 SmaU sextant J on 31', off 32'. 44 55 31 30 Long. 89° 19'.8 W. 54 6 30 42 30 41 6 10 35 32 August 27, 1864.— Depot Island. 13 28 5 53 57 ~ 75 42 42 30 2Q. Larpe sextant; on 32', off 30' h. 8 m. 39 8. / // 28 7 feet elevation. 6 3 8 30 30 38 34 30 30". 12 30 Lat. 63° 46'.9 N. 2Q. August 30, 1864.— Eowe's "Welcome. 8 40 25 60 15 h. m. s. ' // 42 3 10 26 27 32 £2- 43 2b 59 45 14 15 49 7 feet elevation. 48 24 58 54 Ifi 45 28 Vessel's course N., 2i knots 49 45 40 Cbron. slow on G. M. T. g™ 16-. 39 53 29 40 per hour. 50 50 29 42 10 51 Chron. slow on G. M. T. 45'. 59 40 56 55 43 20 54 9 I 30 35 4 14 31 45 2 45 23 Long. 89° 45' N. 16 18 49 10 6 50 43 45 N. 67° W. by C. IS 54 Long. 87° 57'.5 "W. 10 20 43 N. 60° 30' AV. by C. Var. 41°.5 W. 5 35 41 51 53 15 30 34 11 14 14 30 13 30 a August 25, 1! 564.— Depot Island. h. m. 5 53 58 30 12 72 56 2 a 6 5 20 9 30 Lat. 64° 18'. IN. 58 6 30 45 57 55 30 5 51 August 31, 1864.— FntsT Encampment. 9 46 30 Lat. 630 47'.5N. 11 bO 42 30 li. m. s. 9 6 20 52 49 Chrou. slow on G. M. T. : 5 36 30 33 31 Q. 8 22 27 "lU-louF." 10" 38».5 39 33 4 feet elevation. 9 45 12 Jlonticello 11 40 .2 44 13 35 LC. +45". 38 5 40 45 Uall's 10 10.9 Moan 10 49.9 Lone. 89° 58'. 47 49 .57 30 30 34 33 32 30 Chron. slow on G. M. T. 56'.5. 40 45 13 N. 82° W. by C. 59 31 30 Lat. 64° 34'. 9 N. 43 20 45 41 N.81°W. Var. 330.9 W. Sbptemdeb 1, 1864.— First Encampment. August 26, If !64.— Depot Island. 1). m. R. 1 1 / // h. m. H. / II 3 47 15 58 34 LU-I-1'30". 3 13 25 58 55 2Q. 50 51 14 5 59 1 51 2H 59 4 Chron. slow on G. If. T. 1"" 3'.5. 14 23 59 6 53 5 10 1 Hairs Astronomical Observations, 1864. Astronomical ohservationa made during the years 1864-'69 — Continued. 455 Septemuer 1, 1864.— First Encampment— Continued. h. m. 8. 5 42 30 46 45 51 33 54 20 6 4 8 40 1 2 57 3 56 4 57 6 40 7 37 8 35 9 36 12 48 15 18 17 53 66 18 19 30 18 30 18 30 14 5 46 30 20 10 45 30 20 10 44 22 43 56 26 2Q. Lat. 64° 36'.3 N. 2Q- I. C. + 1' 30". Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5''8"°19«. Long. 87° 32' "W. September 3, 1864.— Secokd Encampment. 55 55 57 25 58 35 6 27 34 12 33 53 38 5 32 40 2£2- Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5'" 8" 35*. O N. 61° "W. by C. Long. 87° 13'.5 "W. Var. 47°.2 "W. September 4, 1864.— Second Encampment. h. m. 8. o / 4 16 17 41 3 18 9 44 20 2 40 18 21 20 41 8 m. Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5'' 8'°43>. Long. 87° 13'.5 "W. September 5, 1864. — Second Encampment. h. m. s. 3 49 5 45 L C. + 1' 30". Long. 87° 16'.2 W. September 6, 1864. — Second Encampment. m. s. 31 45 36 47 41 20 48 56 45 44 48 50 47 62 9 30 10 10 8 30 61 58 62 17 03 2(2. I. C'. - 3' 30". Lat. 64° 50' K. September 8, 1864. — Second Encampment. 2^. I. C. + 1' 30'. Chron. slowonG. M. T. 5''9"15'. 2e. 2 0. Long. 87° 17'. 5 W. September 9, 1864.— Third Encampment. b m. 8. 32 35 36 27 38 60 2 30 44 49 20 45 9 44 55 I. T. + 1' 30". Lat. 64° 46' N. 2Q. N. 88° AV. by C. 2i2- 2C7. 2 C7. N. 87° W. by C. Long. 87° 14'. 5 W. Var. 43°.2 "W. September 10, 1864.— Third Encampment. h. m. s. 9 58 34 10 22 2 08 10 9 18 48 31 47 15 30 37 24 41 2 44 7 36 19 40 29 43 34 3 29 5 29 35 30 13 3 33 34 37 36 37 59 17 16 15 59 18 17 16 44 30 25 20 43 52 35 17 2B. I. C. - 22".5. Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5' 9"° 29'. 2 £2. 2Q. I. T. - 22".5. Lat. 64° 46'.6 N. 212. L C. - 22".5. Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5' 9"»31' 2 Q. K. 880.5 W. by C. 2 £!. N. 88° W. by C. 2 (^. N. 870.5 W.'by C. Long. 87° 13'.7 W. Var. 42°. 9 W. September 14, 1864.— Third Encampment. h. m. 37 39 25 42 15 44 25 45 43 56 14 45 14 12 15 11 45 11 30 2(3. I. C. - 53". Lat. 64° 46'.4 N. 456 Hairs Astronomical Observations, 1864. Astronomical observations made duriny the years 1864-'69 — Continued. Septembeu 17, 1864.— Third Excampmext. October 3, 1864.— Fourth Encampment. h. m. 2 38 39 41 s. 50 50 ' // 46 45 45 45 30 2Q. Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5'' 10"" 27'. Long. 87° 13'.9 "W. h. 2 3 m. 59 1 3 6 10 12 13 17 8. 50 38 23 55 24 5 48 10 o / // 30 2Q. 29 45 30 28 30 S. 89° W. by C. 15 . »S. 90° W. by C. 27 30 N. 89° W. by C. Chron. fast on L. M. T. 35™ 7'. Var. 4G0.1 W. September 20, 1864.— Fourth Excampmext. li. ni. 3 46 s. 27 / " 33 30 2 £2. Long, a.ssuraed 87'^ 16'.9 "W. ChroD. fast on L M. T. 37°' 52». October 8, 1864.— Fourth Encampment. September 28, 1864.— Fourth Excampment. h. 2 ni. 30 31 32 33 33 8. 23 50 35 12 54 1 II 29 45 35 30 25 20 2Q. Chion. fast on L. M. T. 3'' 4"- 17». h. m. 11 26 28 29 8. 43 11 53 / 43 37 43 49 30 15 n.-v. ■ Cbron. fast on L. M. T. Se™ 9'. October 9, 1864.— Fifth Encampment. September 29, 1864.— Fourth Encampment. h. m. 28 32 8. 10 50 O / /' 36 51 30 48 45 2Q. Lat. 64° 46'.7 N. h. ni. 22 25 28 31 34 37 39 a. 10 50 42 15 37 / 44 35 35 35 35 33 32 29 15 30 30 30 45 15 45 2 0. I. 0. - 15". Lat. 64° 46'. 3 N. 2 Q. S. 81° W. by C. S. 83° W. b'v C. S. 84° W. by C. Var. 40O.4 W. October 16, 1864.— Fifth Encampment. h. 2 m. 28 30 33 s. 55 55 o / '/ 23 45 30 15 2 £}. S. 78° W. by C. S. 79° W. by C. Chron. fast on L. M. T. 32°' 48". Tar. 44°.9 AV. 2 38 48 52 57 12 10 35 59 34 49 18 45 15 October 17, 1864.— Fifth Encampment. October 1, 1864. — Fourth Encampment. h. m. 19 24 28 S. 15 45 o / // 30 57 56 30 54 2Q. Lat. 64° 46' N. Chron. fast on L. M. T. 32" 28'. h. m. 10 37 40 42 s. 32 37 o / // 37 30 45 38 2Q. Sextant ont of onlcr. 2 12- Lat. 04° 46'.6 N. 2 0. 3 12 48 17 12 30 44 46 48 48 38 5 38 8 18 26 30 1 October 18, 1864. — Fifth Encampment. 1 h. 11 m. 46 s. 11 o / // 58 2:2- Chrnn. fast on L. M. T. 32'"11»; till n Ions. 83° 5'.5 W. (not reliable). 43 1 30 3 4 51 59 4 21 1 1 87 52 30 55 55 2 35 37 39 45 43 52 34 45 30 15 HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1865. 457 Astronomical oiservatiom made during the years 1864-'69 — Continued. OcTOBEB 27, 1864.— Fifth ENCAiiPMENT. h. m. s. 7 37 S. 15° E. by C. Chron. shows L. M. T. Sun about 6' high, to allow for elevation of place of obser- vation. Var. 43°.2 W. November 3, 1864.— Fifth Encampment. April 25, 1865.— Ninth Encampment— Continued. m. s. 8 10 12 25 16 56 19 55 42 2Qi. On 30', off 33'. S. 83o"W. byC. S.84^A,V.byC. S. 85o\y.byC. Chron. slow on L. M. T. 4" 37». Var. 20°. 4 ^Y. May 3, 1865. — Thirteenth Encampment. h. m. 11 43 19 31 30 2Q. December 25, 1864.— Sixth Encampment. h. m. s. Elevation 30 feet. Lat. 64° 45'.8 N. April 11, 1865.— Seventh Encampment. 11 51 35 67 1 30 55 23 59 66 52 30 3 45 • 5 10 43 2 55 47 21 59 30 46 44 30 3 1 33 22 2 £2- On 30', off 25'. Refraction great. Lat. 64° 43'.2 W. (?) 2 £2. On 39', off2.V. Cbron. slow on L. M. T. 26" 12' April 16, 1865.— Eighth Encampment. h. m. 8. H 25 30 30 10 36 10 41 5 45 10 2 33 10 35 4 36 35 70 15 16 30 17 15 30 15 53 54 34 19 212. On 31' 30", off 33'. Lat. 64° 55' N. 2 £3. On 32' off 30'. Chron. slow on L. M. T. 27"» 6'. April 25, 1865.— Ninth Encampment. h. m. a. 11 41 46 40 57 5 u 6 30 u 51 12 25 o , „ 76 3 8 11 30 5 76 12 5 45 2 I2- On 30', off 33'. Lat. 65° 1'.2 N. 2Q. h. m. 8. 10 16 50 20 40 29 40 32 15 11 29 45 35 45 44 35 47 10 48 50 54 20 .57 20 3 75 4 28 76 20 33 30 80 40 6 45 9 35 12 10 14 30 2 49 47 52 40 57 50 1 10 22 22 22 22 22 20 30 19 15 14 11 08 64 32 5 64 14 213. Chron. slow on L. M. T. 2" 5». 2 0. Lat. 65° 23'.3 N. 2 £3. N.87°l.VW. bvC. N. 86° W. bv C. N. 84° 30' W. by C. Var. 40°.9 W. May 5, 1865. — Thirteenth Encampment. h. m. 8 40 diameter above sea horizon. N. 1° E. by C. May 6, 1865.— Thirteenth Encampment. h. m. s. 8 44 O diameter above sea horizon. N. 3° E. by C. May 7, 1865.— Thirteenth Encampment. h. m. s. 11 48 34 52 55 56 30 59 40 2 30 5 05 5 6 8 26 10 48 82 38 30 39 30 40 40 38 35 30 63 50 17 62 52 2Q. 2 0. N. 76i° W. bv C. N. 75i° AV. by C. N. 75° W. by C. 458 HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1865. Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-69 — Continued. Mat 8, 1865.— Thirteenth Encampment. May 27, 1865.— Fourteenth Encampment. h. m. 9 1 TD on the horizon. Mat 12, 1865. — Thirteenth Encampment. h. m. 8 55 2 49 52 55 68 30 h. m. .s. 4 23 48 26 20 31 5 56 55 30 54 30 2 £2- On32',off31i'. N. 59° W. by C. N. 580.5 W. by C. N. 57".5 W. by C. Var. 410.1 W. 2 GJ. S. 5JO E. bv C. 2 £2- N. 78° 30' W. by C. 20- N. 77° 15' W. by C. 2 0. N. 76° 15' W. by G. Chron. slow on L. M. T. 4-" 8'.5. Lat. 65° 2i' N. Var. 47°.9 "W. May 28, 1865.— Fourteenth Encampment. h. m. s. 11 48 54 20 59 3 15 Mat 20, 1865.— Thirteenth Encampment. m. s. 56 58 37 1 20 4 20 7 15 11 12 14 14 17 15 19 30 22 22 25 17 70 48 21 69 53 53 53 68 4 4 4 66 35 35 35 2 Q. On 32' 30", oflF 30'. 2Q. 2Ci. 20- 2 0. 2Q. 2e. 2 0. 2Q- 20- 2 0. Chron. slow on L. M. T. 5"42'.8. 11 51 55 30 4 30 11 10 12 32 13 58 30 30 Mat 21, 1865.— Thirteenth Encampment. 91 53 52 50 45 91 50 49 30 48 30 45 72 71 45 30 70 30 15 66 53 2 0. On 31' 30", off 31'. 2 Q. On 33', off 30'. Lat. 65° 23' K. 2 Q. On 31' 30", off 31'. The compass often varies 1°, 2°, and sometimes 6° or 8° in a few minutes, althimgh located in one spot and un- touched. N. 55° W. by C. Chron. slow on L. M T. 7" 53". Var. 58°.3 W. m. s. 37 so 41 30 45 30 48 51 53 30 .55 30 07 58 40 30 2 10 15 " 17 17 30 18 18 30 20 18 17 30 17 16 15 Mat 30, 1865. — Fourteenth Encampment. 2 Q. On 33', off 31'. Lat. 65° 23'. 5 N. h. m. 8. 11 38 40 43 48 30 51 53 56 58 40 92 25 28 29 30 29 30 26 30 25 30 2 Q. On 34', off 30'. Lat. 65° 22'. 7 N. May 31, 1865.— Fifteenth E\xampment. Mat 25, 1865.— Thirteenth Encampjiest. h. m. s. 5 35 38 30 40 30 5 49 50 15 51 22 52 40 53 55 40 47 30 47 47 38 37 45 30 15 2 Q. On 32'.5, off 30'. 2e- 2 0. 2 Q. On 32', off 31'. Chron. slow on L. M. T. 6" 34*. h. m. 4 1 2 3 4 5 60 30 15 45 30 15 2Q. Chron. slow on L. M. T. 9" 22'. June 1, 1865.— Fifteenth Encampment. May 26, 1865.— Fourteenth Encampment. h. m. B. 4 57 48 51 30 1.(3'. - 30". Chron. slow on L. M. T. 7"° 38'. h. m. a. 11 42 25 47 50 40 20 52 53 40 55 30 93 6 30 10 10 9 8 6 30 2 Q. On 34', off 30'. Lat. 05° 19'.3 N. HaWs Astronomical Observations^ 1865. 469 Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-69 — Continued. June 1, 1865.— riiTSENTH ENCAiirMENT— Continued. m. 8. 15 42 17 18 23 2G 17 27 37 28 56 ,S4 .35 20 36 47 70 30 15 68 30 15 67 66 45 30 2 a. On 31' 30" off 30' ?0". Cbion. slow on L. M. T. 10" 1". June 5, 1865.— Sixteenth Encampment. h. lU. 8. 11 37 35 41 30 47 50 4'J 10 52 55 05 27 1 40 4 25 94 12 11 10 9 11 44 47 94 6 6 4 55 10 50 26 56 20 12 57 23 49 58 49 15 48 26 2 Q. On 33' 30", off 30'. Lat. 65° 16'.2 N. June 10, 1865.— Between Nineteenth and Twentieth Encampsients. 2Q. 2 Q. On 33', off 30'. Chron. slow on L. M. T. 15™ 17» 2Q. On 31' 30", off 31'. June 6, 1865.— Seventeenth Encampment. h. ni. 8. 9 14 17 15 56 17 43 11 59 15 2 30 3 55 5 10 15 30 94 1 93 57 56 53 2Q. On 34', off 30'. Long, assumed 5'' 48". Chron. slow on L. M. T. 17"" 30' 2 a On 34', off 30'. Lat. 65° 22'.8 N. June 7, 1865.— Between Seventeenth and Eighteenth Encampments. h. m. 8. 9 55 57 58 20 11 34 38 45 50 52 30 f „ 43 58 30 44 5 9 15 47 7 30 8 30 7 30 7 5 Elevation 5 feet. I.e. -7".5. Elevation 5 feet. I. C. -7". 5. Made on land, ^hich was reached at 10'' 55'". h. m. 11 34 37 30 41 40 45 11 36 10 40 47 30 47 47 i levation 5 feet. I. C. - 3'. Near a small island, from 1 J to 2 miles from mainland. Elevation 5 feet. Lat. 65° 50'.5 N. June 13, 1865. — Between Twentieth and Twenty-first Encampments. h. m. 11 32 35 36 30 39 41 43 50 50 30 49 15 49 48 55 48 30 46 30 Elevation 5 feet. Lat. 66° 11'.7 N. June 14, 1865.— Twentt-fiest Encampment. h. m. 8. 11 24 26 26 29 30 23 31 30 33 30 35 10 37 12 38 30 41 15 42 30 44 30 45 45 4 46 50 48 8 49 23 50 26 53 10 55 50 93 38 30? 36 37 38 39 39 37 36 35 30 36 ? 33 31 30 50 45 30 15 50 2 Q. On 33' 30", off 30'. Small sextant. Sextant out of order. Lat. 66° 14'.7 N. 2Q. Large sextant. 2Q. On 34', off 30'. Small sext't. 2e. 20. Chron. slow on L. M. T. 29-° 25' June 21, 1865. — Hued's Channel. m. 8. 58 40 1 45 3 40 12 i:! 30 15 15 11 39 41 25 43 50 46 15 50 51 50 90 46 2 12 58 5 12 30 94 1 30 93 57 56 52 45 43 2 Q. On 34', off 30'. 2Q. Lat. 66° 10' N. 460 HalVs Astronomical Observations, 1865. Antronomical obsenalions made during the years 1864-'69 — Coutinued. June 25, 1865.— Twekty-fiest Enxampment. ni. a. 46 20 47 42 49 8 50 22 57 2 58 27 1 5 70 69 45 30 15 08 07 45 15 2 O. On 32', off 30' 30" N. 69° W. by C. N. 68° W. by C. N. 00° W. by C. N. 05° AV. bv C. Chr. slow on L. M. T. 54" 50'. 5. Var.44°.5 W. Junk 29, 1865.— Twentt-fibst Encampment. ni. .«!. 1 25 4 40 6 30 8 9 30 11 12 30 13 30 15 18 41 20 42 57 44 7 50 32 52 15 53 20 93 28 28 28 30 30 27 25 20 26 25 23 30 70 21 69 47 68 35 30 10 2Q. On 34', off 29'. Observation indifferent ; tant out of order. Lat. 66° 1.5'.5 N. 2 0. On 34' 30", off 29'. Chron. slow on L. M. T. 57"' 28'. July 3, 1865. — Twenty-second Encampment. 40 15 10 I 30 30 92 2 45 45 48 30 51 22 69 30 69 30 69 30 2(2. On 34' 30", off 28'. A 0 19 25 22 15 24 11 30 35 20 40 25 37 52 ■39 15 40 38 42 43 23 73 43 28 11 85 7 15 19 53 52 51 49 49 15 15 I i 70 10 3 09 49 45 2]). On 32' 30", off 30' 30". 2 0. Ne.arest limbs and & . Long. 85° 29' W. 215. 1 87 1 45 I 2 Q. 30 , 10 30 50 42 40 Nearest limbs and 3 . 39 45 37 15 30 15 50 33 30 I Ne.irest limbs and J) . 31 15 I 29 30 88 46 15 45 30 15 2 meridian altitude. Lat. 00° 19'. 9 N. 2 0. July 23, 1865. — Twenty-second Encampment. m. s. 50 47 .52 10 53 28 62 61 45 61 30 2 0. On 32' 30", off 30' 30". Curon. slow on L. M. T. 3"' 10'. EaWs Astronomical Observations , 1865. 461 Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-'69— Continued. July 28, 1865.— Twextt-becond Encampment. August 5, 1865.— Tw-exty-secoxd Enxajipment. h. m. s. \ , „ h. m. 8. o. / // 1 3 20 65 15 2Q. On 32' 30", off30':'0". 9 16 30 68 15 2 T3- Ind. cor. 1'. ' 21 27 Chion. slow on L. M. T. 4" 21>. 20 68 15 20- 22 55 64 45 23 30 68 15 2Q. 1 Kearest limbs and a . Chron. slow on L. 11. T. 5" 50'. 1 .- . 3 28 45 6» 6 32 8 7 30 11 51 35 80 39 (?) 2 0. 34 55 8 15 56 30 37 Ko ind. cor. given. TT. S. C. S. 10 37 sextant very mucb out of order: had index cor. of 30" 3 39 48 61 45 2C!- on Aug. 2. 41 25 30 Lat. 66° 18'.3. K. 42 34 15 August 8, 1865.— Twextt.thibd Exx-ampmest. i 3 45 53 48 40 69 13 30 13 45 Kearest limbs and p . 1 51 35 14 45 h. m. 8. / /( 11 42 30 46 30 39 12 30 14 45 Sea horizon. Eye, 5i feet. 3 54 61 59 2i2. 50 15 45 57 30 58 30 53 35 16 58 54 15 57 35 16 30 Long. 5i> 43"" 20' W. by D. R. 4 10 2 35 17 15 5 50 16 45 15 4 51 40 69 36 45 Ifearest limbs and j) . 14 40 14 56 36 39 17 30 13 5 1 40 40 45 Nearest limbs and B . i 20 8 11 Lat. 66° 31'.3 If. 5 6 45 69 42 30 August 15, 1865.— Twenty-third E.nxampment. 9 15 11 35 43 45 44 15 1 - -- 1 i h. m. s. 3 .09 10 / 11 24 6 Sea horizon. 5 14 5 69 45 Nearest limbs and D . 4 1 20 23 53 17 46 15 3 8 44 Dip — 2'. 19 55 46 45 i Chron. slow on I.. H. T. 6»' 7'. August 2, 1865.— Twextv-seco.vd Encampment. \ , 1 August 20, 1805— TwE.NTY-THn!D E.n-cajitment. b. m. 8. o / // 1 3 8 64 45 2(2. On 32' 30", off 30' 30". h. m. 8. 1 o ' " 3 38 45 ! 24 10 39 55 i 5 9 30 11 30 15 Cbron. slow on L. M. T. 5" 28». Sea horizon. 12 30 40 45 1 Height of eye, 9 feet. 14 63 45 41 47 1 23 55 Chron. slow on L. il. T. S" 10'. 42 40 50 44 25 40 45 20 1 35 3 18 30 20 63 62 45 2Q. On 32' 30", off 31' 30". Cliron. slowon L. il. T. 5"»12». i Bad sextant. 21 30 30 i 23 i 15 3 52 30 23 Q- 24 30 ; 53 30 22 55 Height of eye, 5 feet. 1 54 25 50 Chron. slow on L. 11. T. v"' 27'. August 3, 1865.— Twexty-secoxd Excampmest. August 24, 1865— Twenty-third E.\cajip.\iest. 3 12 17 63 30 2 0. On 32' 30", off 30' 30". 13 40 15 15 12 19 35 62 15 Cbron. slowon L.Jl. T. 5" 42». ' 3 53 10 21 30 54 15 i 25 i3. Horizon 3 miles off. 21 5 55 10 20 Cbron. slow on L. M. T. 8" 14'. 22 33 61 45 26 55 2 0. 4 4 15 20 30 5 55 20 Horizon 3 miles off. 28 32 61 45 7 15 Chron. slow on L. 11. T. 8" 9". 462 HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1866. Astronomical ohscrvafions made during ihe years 18G4-'G9 — Continued, August 25, 1865.— Twenty-thikd Encampment. h. m. s. H 52 54 53 57 7 30 / ,, 33 55 55 30 55 54 30 Sua horizon. Height of eye, 10 feet. Lat. 60° 28'.9 N. August 27, 1865. — Twenty-fouhth Encampment. h. ni. s. 10 20 12 45 3 13 15 22 20 33 5 30 3 45 24 23 15 Sea horizon. Heiclitof eve, 5 feet. Lat'6(P29'.'3N. Sea horizon. Land beliiud it, and distant J mile. Ileiaht of eye, 5 feet. Cliron. slow on L. M. T. 8" 24'. August 28, 1865.— Twenty-fourth Encampment. 40 51 50 15 G2- Sea horizon. Elevation of eye, 5 feet. Chron. having stopped is taken as 47'" 44» slow on L. M. T. Lat. 66° 28'. 6 N. October 13, 18C5. — Twe.vty-sixth Encampment. h. m. s. o / " 11 52 30 35 30 56 34 30 1 31 30 2 Q. On 33', off 31'. Lat. 660 31/.4 jj. October 14, 1865.— Twenty-sixth Encampment. h. m. s. o ( (/ 1 41 7 24 15 43 35 46 15 23 45 1 50 .V2 17 23 20 10 55 13 22 50 2Q. On 32' 1.5", off 31' 45". Chion. fast on L. M. T. 1-" 53», 2 n. On 32' l.V. off 31' 4.5". Chron. fast on L. M. T. 2» 14'. February 7, 1866.— Twentt-bighth Encampment. h. m. 8. 11 .36 30 41 15 4.-) 40 50 30 56 30 10 13 30 2 Q. On 32' 30", off 31' 30.' (0 S. 6U° \V. bv C. (.) S. 64° AV. by C. (•) H. 65° W. bV C. S. 05° (?) Vf. by C. February 7, 1866.— Twenty-eighth Encampm't— Cont'd. h. m. 8 16 21 24 50 28 50 O ' „ 16 16 30 13 8 30 4 30 O S. 67° W. by C. S. 71° W. by C. S. 72° W. by C. S. 73° W. bv C. S. 73J° "W. by C. Var. 65° W. Ther. — 35°. Lat. 66° 30'. 5 N. March 28, 1866.— Twenty-ninth Encampment. h. m. 8. 11 32 44 50 11 35 45 42 48 30 2 33 10 37 10 41 10 52 41 30 43 30 42 30 40 30 52 48 30 48 46 30 30 11 38 36 2 Q. On 32', off 32'. Largo sextant. Lat. 66° 30'.2 K. 2 £2- On 37', oif 26'. s. 5sj° ^y. bv c. S. 60J° W. bv C. S. 63° W. by C. Lat. 66° 30'.7 N. 2 Q. On 39', off 26'. N. 70° W. bv C. N. 69° W. by C. N. 68° W. by C. Var. 62°.8 W. Chron. slow 26"" 45'. Eggert chronometer slow on G. M. T. 11' lO" 46». April 3, 1866. — Twenty-ninth Encampment. b. m. s. 2 51 48 53 20 54 50 40 39 45 30 i.T\ - 15". Ward's chron. slow onL.M.T 29'" Long, assumed h^ 47'" 44' \V..slowonG. M. T. 6 16 44" Eggert's chron. fast onW 5 2 35 E. .slow on G. M. T. 1 14 sT March28 1 10 46 liay 24 1 42 32 Loss per day 33'.44 April 4, 1866. — Thirtieth Encampment. ni. 8. 27 53 31 23 34 10 39 10 42 15 2 47 45 50 45 52 20 53 55 55 25 58 41 15 40 45 30 15 i. C. - 15" Lat. 66° 32'.9 N. I.X. - 1.5". (;hron. slow on G. M.T. 6'' 17"" Long. 86° ,50' W. 0's true az., N. 120° 3'. 5 W. r.)'s az. bv (;., N. 51° 30' W. Var. 74° 33'. 5. Evidently local attraction. HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1866. 463 Astronomical ohseiTations made during the years 1864-69 — Continued. April 6, 1806.— Thiuty-fibst Encampment. April 12, 1866.— Twesty-thied Encampment— Cont'd. h. m. B. 11 54 57 20 1 5 O 1 II 59 22 22 30 23 2e 2 £. On 36', off 28'. Lat. 66° 40' N. h. 3 m. s. 37 35 39 40 27 ' /' 42 41 45 30 2Q. Long. 87° 30' "W. 0'3 true az. K. 119° 10' 20" W. 0'.s az. by C. N. 50° 30' W. Var. 68° 46'. 3 W. AruiL 7, 1866.— Thibty-fibst Ekcampmest. Apeil 16, 1866.— Thirty-fourth Encampment. h. m. 8. 3 1 2 38 4 17 1 II 45 44 45 30 I.^'. - 30". Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5'> 52° 10». Long. 87^ 4'. 7 W. 0'8 true az. N. 129= 13' W. 0's az. by C. 71° W. Var. 580 13' ^_ h. 11 m. s. 56 30 59 30 3 6 30 9 30 c / '/ 65 54 30 53 51 30 50 49 2 0. LC. -4'. Lat. 67° 4'.2 N. 1.% - 15". Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5'' 55" 28'. Long. 87° 41'.5 W. by C. N. 51° W. Var. 73° 34' "W. 3 12 10 13 45 15 15 48 30 15 Apeil 8, 1866.— Thirty-secoxd Encampment. h. m. 8. 11 53 56 58 30 1 30 4 12 8 9 10 30 11 45 14 10 / /' 60 40 41 42 43 43 43 30 43 41 40 38 f.%.-4'. Lat. 66° 44'. 9 K. S. 66^ W. by C. The last six ob-servatlons not good, the horizon-glass be- coming loose. Lat. place of obs., 66° 45' K. Diflf. of lat. of Enc't, 1'.8. Lat. Enc't, 66^ 46'.8. I. C. - 22". Chr. Blow on G. M. T. 5'' 52" 33». Long. 87° 16'.7 W 0's true az. N. 133° 24' W. 0's az. by C. N. 76° 30' W. Var. 56° 54' W. Apeil 20, 1866.— Thiety-fifth Encampment. h. 11 m. 8. 43 46 20 51 50 57 40 2 5 8 8 11 45 15 20 ( II 68 13 16 20 21 21 19 18 15 11 30 l.t-4'. Lat. 67° 13'.9 N. 2 0. I. C. - 15". Chr. .slow on G. M. T. 5'' 51" 50'. by C. N. 46° W. Long. 87° 31' W. Var. 76° 38' W. 2 44 30 46 17 48 48 47 45 30 3 12 10 13 45 15 30 20 21 35 23 10 51 15 50 45 49 45 30 Apbil 10, 1866.— Thibty-second Encampment. h. m. s. ° ' " 62 4 2Q. Lat. 66° 47' N. 1 April 22, 1866.— Thirty-sixth Encampment. h. 11 m. 8. 48 52 10 54 50 57 10 59 10 1 45 4 45 7 50 10 1 II 69 14 30 16 16 30 17 17 16 15 14 30 12 2Q. ♦ Lat. 67° 24'.5 N. 1 2 0. Chr. slow on G. M. T. S"- 52"' 37'. Long. 87° 40'.7 W. by C. K. 39° W. Var. 84° 20' W. Apeil 12, 1866.— Thirty-thied Encampment. h. m. 8. 11 4!) 40 53 30 56 58 30 1 4 7 O 1 II 63 11 30 12 12 30 12 30 12 11 30 10 2Q. Lat. 66° 56'.5 N. Chron. slow on G. M.T. 5'' 54°'8'. Long. 87° 30'. 5 "W. 3 15 20 16 55 18 25 20 51 45 30 15 3 27 10 28 40 30 10 43 45 30 15 ^^^ HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1866. Astronomical observations made daring the years 1854-'G9— Continued. Apml 20, 18CC.— Thietv-seventh Encampment. h. m. s. o ' " 11 51 70 50 55 50 30 58 30 51 3 40 I 47 30 7 30 I 48 30 12 42 2Q On 30', off 34'. Very cloudy. Lat. 67° 3C'.4 N. April 26, 1866.— Thiktv-sevektii Excampment. h. m. s. / „ 11 53 20 71 '.>7 59 10 27 30 3 26 8 24 30 12 20 21 11 55 40 71 30 2 30 6 35 27 4 17 50 43 15 20 35 42 45 22 30 23 20 15 2(2. I. C. + 1' 45". Lat. 67° 36'.9 If. 2r3- I. C. - 30". Lat. 67° 36'.8 N". I. C. - 30". Clir. slow on G. M. T. 5^ 54" 10» Long. 87° 7'. 7 W. by C. N. 27° 45' W. Var. 79° 15' "W. I May 16, 1866.— EoRTY-sKTH Encampment. li. m. s. 11 55 8 57 35 1 40 4 83 31 31 30 31 30 29 2Q- I. C. + 2'. Lat. 07° 8'.e N. May 20, 1866.— FOKTY-SEVENTH ENCAMPME.NT. h. m. s. 11 49 35 53 17 58 35 2 5 10 9 15 85 30 31 32 30 33 33 30 30 2 0- LC. 1-2'. Lat. 66° 59'. 9 N. May 24, 1866.— Fiitieth Encampment. May 4, 1866.— Fortieth Encampment. h. m. s. o / „ u 48 73 28 15 oO 20 18 51 35 14 15 4 18 20 40 44 45 30 21 20 15 2Q, L C. - 52". Lat. 67° 59'. 9 X. 212. I. C. - 45". Chr. slow on G. M. T. 6>' 8" Long. 88° 18'.7 W. li. m. s. 4 15 45 19 21 30 24 26 30 .57 16 56 36 30 11 30 55 41 11 30 2B. Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5I' 491" 15 Lone 80° 50' W. by C. N. 41° W. Var. 62° W. May 30, I860.— Fifty-fiest Encampment. 25' May 15, 1866.— Foety-sixth Encampment. li. m 11 45 10 51 10 .54 35 57 59 40 4 7 30 10 45 14 20 82 56 83 2 :i 3 3 3 2 82 56 30 40 49 20 42 30 48 50 45 30 17 I.T. + 2'. Cloudy. Lat. 07° 8'.3 N. 90 20 3 5 6 5 2 59 212- LC.+2'. Lat. 66° 30'.3 N. 10 10 30 2 0. LC. + 2'. May 31, 1866.— Fifty-eirst Encampment. LT;'. 4- 2'. ("lir. slow on G. M. , O by C. N. 29" W I Long. 87° 4 1', 7 W. Vnr. 70° 38' W. T. 5'' 49'" 37 58 57 25 2 57 38 LC.'2.5". Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5'' 48" Long. 86° 34'. 5 W by C. N. 40° W. Var. 61° 42' W. June 3, 1866.— Mouth op Grinnell Eiver. h. ni. s. 11 43 30 48 20 52 25 58 30 I 40 91 14 15 18 21 22 2 £!■ On 27', off 30' 30" Lat. 60° 22'. 8 N. HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1866. 465 Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-'C9 — Continued. June 3, 1806.— Mouth of Grinnell Kiveu— Contiuued, m. s. 4 8 30 n 30 14 20 10 50 / „ 91 22 20 30 20 17 le June 9, 1866.— FiFrr-sECOND Encampment. h. m. 8. 3 54 .57 57 35 59 13 6 20 8 14 10 10 08 10 67 40 28 66 9 65 51 24 1.0. + 30". Lat.iise(l06°29'N. Chr. slow oil G. M. T. 5'' 32" 31». Long. 86° 21'.7 W. Hall thinks long, too great, and ascribes it to Eggeit's chron. not keeping its rate. 0's true az. N. 112° 10' W. © by C. N. 45° 30' W. Var. 66° 40' W. 2Q- I. ". 2 0. 19 42 10 3 43 50 71 40 45 3 28 I. (J. - 3' 30". 5 23 50 49 20 2 0- 4G 10 24 40 25 34 10 48 59 I. C. - 3' 15". 4 35 23 02 3 2Q. June : >9, 1800.- FlFrV-SKVENTII E.Nl A.MPJIKST. 30 32 01 48 1. C. - 3' 30". 37 45 35 30 h. m. s. 11 15 13 / 93 1 92 59 " 2 0. I. T. -f 1' 30". 15 58 Lat. 60° 25'.2 N. 4 42 55 60 35 2Q. 16 25 56 30 44 8 21 I. C. - 3' 30". 19 55 45 8 10 I. C. + 1' 30". 5 41 45 44 25 45 37 5 48 44 21 Chron. fast on L. A. T. 3». 4 54 30 58 19 2 Q. I. C. - 3' 30". 49 35 2 O N. 34° W. 1)V 0. 20- N. 33io W. b'v «'. 57 20 10 59 53 19 2 0. O N. 33° W. by C. July 2, 1860.- Fifty-seventh Encaml'ment. b. 111. s. o / „ 5 3 45 50 30 2 i2- i.e.- 3' 30". 11 54 .30 92 40 i. C'. + 1' 30". 0N.32J'^ W. bvC. 55 35 40 30 G 35 30 20- O N. 320W. bvC. 57 41 30 9 30 2 0. CO N. 310 w. by C. .58 20 40 . Vur. 64°.6 W. i 59 30 40 30 HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1867. 467 Astronomical observations made during the years 18C!-'69 — Contiuued. July 2, 1866.— FinT-sEVEJjTH Encampment— Cont'd. 1 July 10, 18C6.— Fifty-nintii Encampment. b. m. 8. 1 ° ' " 30 I 92 39 1 30 : 40 2 15 , 39 30 3 20 41 30 4 25 40 5 25 38 7 20 40 8 35 36 30 9 45 36 30 10 40 35 Lat. 60° 25'.2 N. 2Q. I. c. + r 30". 2XD'. Chron. slow on L. A. T. 2', h. 11 m. s. 54 10 7 20 8 45 10 50 13 30 ' '/ 91 14 30 14 12 10 8 2 Q. On 49', off 14' 30". Lat. 66° 29'. 3 N. ' 2Q. L C. - 30". Chron. slow on L. A. T. 41». 4 47 50 48 55 50 54 17 4 30 53 52 11 16 3 17 43 18 39 21 16 23 56 1 1 47 55 35 24 24 24 Jin.Y 20, 1866.— Sixtieth Encampment. h. 11 m. s. 56 5 57 45 59 12 41 2 50 9 10 45 12 37 C / " 87 47 47 47 46 30 4G 44 41 38 2£!. L C. + 1'. Lilt. 66° 29'.1 N. July 6, 1866. — FiFTy-EioiiTH Encampment. h. m. s. 11 55 45 57 47 59 17 20 2 3 4 10 1 o / // 91 46 30 46 30 46 30 48 46 30 46 46 2£2- I. C. + 2' 30". Lat. 66° 31'.5 N. August 31, 1866. — Auout three jhles north of Ship's Hakbor ISLAN1)S. July 7, 1866. — Fifty -ninth Excajipment. h. 8 m. s. 48 28 49 54 51 20 O ( II 44 43 45 30 2 Q. On 31'. off 32' 30". Long. 51' 44"' 20' W. Chr. fa.st on L. M. T. 5i' 20"' 15». li. m. s. 7 30 9 10 11 12 13 13 50 15 16 18 o / '/ 91 35 33 35 30 35 33 33 31 30 30 28 2Q. I. (J. + 2' 30". Lat. 66° 30'.9 N. September 1, 1866.— About three miles north of Ship's Harbor Islands. h. 5 m. s. 3 55 16 15 18 13 22 26 10 37 35 O ' '/ 02 46 53 53 54 52 43 2 Q. On 30', off 33' 30". Lat. 660 29'.9 N. July 9, 1866.— Fifty-ninth Encampment. h. TO. s. 8 13 20 14 50 16 20 O / " 66 36 30 51 67 9 2Q. I. C. - 30". Chron. slow on L. A. T. 38«. I. C. - 30". 2i2. I. C. - 30". Lat. ee'' 28'.2 If. Refraction great. April 27, 1867.— Sixty-fifi-h Encampment. 8 22 10 23 lU 24 68 10 20 31 h. 11 m. s. 35 38 39 40 41 23 25 30 O 1 II 74 21 18 17 16 74 7 3 2 O. Ou 39', off 25'. Long. 51' 44"> 20». Heremovedchron. forward 36'". Lat. 66^ 2C N. 2Q. On 38', off 26'. Chron. slow ou L. M. T. 1~'. 11 54 25 56 30 59 20 40 1 50 3 4 37 G 25 91 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 16 15 14 30 13 3 17 45 18 55 20 20 55 32 21 8 468 HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1868. Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-'69 — Continued. June 15, 18G7. — Sixtv-fifth Encami'ment. m. s. 38 25 44 53 6 5 10 30 6 35 8 15 9 25 5 14 5 25 20 27 10 28 40 5 37 30 93 12 30 16 IC 11 7 51 23 30 2 50 49 77 6 79 19 37 57 81 42 2 Q. On 31', off 31'. Lat. CGo 26'.! N. 2 £2. On 31', off 32'. Chron. slow on L. M. T. C' 65". to left to mountain. to left to mountain. Ou 30'. off 34. N. 25° W. by C. N. 24° W. by C. Var. 64° W. O to left to mountain. mark S. 79° W. by C. Var. 64° W. June 21, 1867.— Sixty-fifth Encampment. Ii. m. s. 4 18 15 19 35 20 55 61 60 45 30 I. C. + 2'. Cbrou. slow on L. M. T. 8" 55'. June 22, 1867.— Sixty-fifth Encampment. h. m. 8. 11 39 45 48 52 40 56 40 6 50 8 50 10 20 o , „ 93 23 26 30 27 30 27 30 27 21 20 19 30 I. 0. -i- 3' 30". Lat. 66° 26'. 1 N. July 6, 1867.— Sixty-fifth Encampment. b.m. 8. 7 12 in a.m. 4 27 48i).iii. 7 17 37 a.m. 4 22 32 p.m. !■ 58 26 30 2D- Cluon. slow ou L. M. T. 14™ 10". .SKl'TEMnEK 15, 1867.— IWILLIK. fa. m. 8. 11 14 30 lU 35 18 •j'> 21 12 23 45 25 50 52 25 25 25 24 23 30 2 O- On 24', off 41'. Lnt. 6flc 30'.6 N. Septembeu 15, 1867.— IwiLLiK— Continued. b. m. s. O 1 " 2 1 4 53 40 7 39 48 5 55 33 30 7 25 19 9 15 4 2 Q. On 32', off 32'. Chron. slow on L. M. T. 38"" 33'. Aprii, 3, 1868. — Tenth Igloo— Oo-sooab-ku. h. m. s. 11 21 30 26 42 29 30 41 50 44 40 48 35 50 52 20 55 10 59 20 3 15 32 30 33 53 35 36 30 37 30 54 45 51 55 55 1 2 2 2 1 54 59 56 52 30 43 42 48 39 27 19 2 £i. On 28', off 36'. Lat. 67° 50' N. 2 0. On 28', off 37'. Assumed long. 5i' 29°' W. Chron. slow on L. M. T. W April 14, 1868.— Fourteenth Igloo — Ooglit Islands. m. s. 38 40 42 40 46 10 3 5 30 8 11 23 60 26 21 11 30 38 30 5 37 32 2 0. On 32', off 32' 30". L.at. 68° 59'.5 N. 2 0. On 32', off 33'. N. 15° W. bvC. N. 16° W. by C. N. 17° W. by C. Chron. slow ou L. M. T. Var. 98° W. April 17, 1868.— First Igloo— Hooper Inlet. 21 23 43 42 33 43 16 2 0. On 30', off 34'. OS. 29i°"\V. by C. S. 30° \V. bv C. S. 31° W. bv C. S. 36° W. by C. Chrou. slow ou L. JI. T. S.V" '. Var. 91°. 1 \V. April 18, 1808. — Second Igloo — Quilliam Creek. h. m. a. 9 47 30 50 20 53 56 20 58 43 10 2 35 1 , „ 59 47 30 60 11 24 30 32 30 47 2 0. Ou28' 30", off 35'. 0S. 84° W. bvC. S. 83° (?) W'. by C. S. 86° W. bv (i- S. 87JO W. by C. S. 89° W. bv C. S. 89° W. by C. ("hron. sh)W on L. 51. T. 50" Var. 107O.0 W. 22». HalVs Astronomical Observations , 1868. 469 Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-'69 — Continued. April 19, 1868.— Tiiino Igloo— Crozieb Eivee. h. m. s. 7 11 46 13 30 18 28 20 .50 23 20 41 40 42 15 43 43 5 27 2Q. On28', ofif36'. O «• 31° W. by C. O S. 29° W. bv C. O S. 30° W. by C. S. 301° W. ty C. S. 31° "W. by C. Chiou. slow on L. M. T. 50"" Var. 930.6 W. 21» Between Third akd Fouuth Igloos. h. m. s. 10 55 10 57 30 53 2 30 5 7 50 11 15 14 30 18 21 35 26 5 28 40 63 11 13 14 15 30 16 30 17 17 17 17 16 12 30 10 30 2 Q, On 28', oflF 36'. S. 87° W. by C. S. 87° W. by C. S. 88° W. by C. S. 8a^° W. by C. S. 89Jo W. by C. N. 89° TV. by C. N. 88° W. by C. N. 87° W. by C. N. 85^° W. by C. N". 84^° W. by C. Lat. 69°3l'.9N.' Var. 89°.4 W. Ai'KiL 20, 18C8.— FouiiTH Igloo— Geknell Lake. li. ni. s. C 21 38 23 57 27 15 51 43 3 2 a. On 30', off 34'. .S. 43° "W. bv C. S. 43SO W. by C. 56 S. 44° W. by C. S. 47° W. by C. Cbron. slow on L. M. T. l^ 46" Var. 100°. 3 W. Ai'RiL 20, 1808.— Beto'een Fourth axd Fifiti Igloos. li. m. s. ' " 9 26 62 39 29 45 32 50 55 37 5 63 4 41 18 30 47 35 27 55 15 .•*. April 27, 1868.— Nkth Igloo, same as slsth. b. m. s. 11 36 30 41 30 46 50 I 51 10 I 57 32 I 4 7 15 10 53 15 18 3 21 50 25 50 67 45 68 51 56 30 1 2 2 2 2 67 57 55 30 52 47 2 0. 0N. 0N. ON. 0N. ON. ON. ON. 0N. ON. On 28', off 36'. 870 W. by C. 81° (?) W. bv C. 7940 W. by t!. 79io W. bv C. 790 W. bv'C. 78° W. by C. 76° "W. by C. 75° "W. by C. 730 "W. by C. N. 70° TV. by C. Lat. 69° 47'. 8 N. Var. 1030 W. April 28, 1868.— Islakd, west estrakce to Furt and Hecla Straits. m. 8. 40 44 47 50 51 20 54 30 58 1 3 45 6 40 10 35 15 27 18 30 21 20 15 17 20 24 26 27 27 27 26 25 24 22 18 2 0, ON ON 0N ON, ON. ON, ON. ON 0N. ©N. ON. Lat. Var. On 29', off 35'. . 76° TV. bv C. . 74° TV. by C. 73° TV. by C. 72*0 w. i,v C. 72° TV. by C. 71° TV. by C. 70i° TV. by C. 70° TV. by C. 68° TV. by C. 670 -W". l)y C. 6C0 TV. bv C. 690 54/.5 ij, IO80.8 TV. 470 HaWs Astronomical Observations, 18G8. Astronomical obscrvaiions made during tlic years 1864-'69 — Continued. Apeil 28, 1868.— Island, west knteance, &c.— Cont'd. May 2, 1868.— Eleventh Igloo, near Cape East— Cont'd. h. m. s. 4 27 35 15 36 30 37 50 / // 42 37 41 16 4 40 51 2Q. Cbron. fast on L. M. T. 1" 3». Cliron. fast on L. M. T. 58'. h. 5 m. 10 12 13 s. 58 40 35 / // 30 39 20 11 2 0. O to right to mark. N. 6° E. by C. N. 7° E. by C. 2 0. ON. 7i° E. O N. 8° E. O N. 8° E. to right to mark. Bear'g of© mark S. 80° E. by t'. Alt. of !^ mark 25'. Var. 98° "W. 5 16 15 89 37 4 45 43 47 40 49 17 39 31 12 38 56 5 18 20 22 27 April 29, 1 868. — Tenth Igloo, near Cape Englefield. 5 23 26 27 28 38 34 30 3 33 47 h. m. s. 11 53 57 27 1 4 5 30 7 10 11 45 13 30 / // 69 11 30 11 30 12 13 13 13 11 10 2Q. On 31', off 33'. N. 72° "W. by C. O N. 70° W. by C. O N. 67° W. by C. O N. 65JO W. by C. Lat. 09° 51'. Var. 112° W. 5 32 34 32 16 85 57 41 May 10, 1868.— OoGLiT Islands. h. 11 m. 24 28 31 34 40 43 13 17 s. 30 10 15 30 o / // 77 10 10 9 30 9 3 2 0. On 30', off 34'. ON. 88° W. l)y C. N. 85J° W. by C. O N. 82° W. by C. N. 81° "W. by C. N. 81° "W. by C. O N. 75° W. by C. N. 75° W. bV C. Lat. 68° 58'.4 N. Var. 92°. 2 W. 2 0. ON. byC. O N. by C. N. 1° E. by C. N. 3i° E. ty C. Chron. slow on L. M. T. 32'" :;0'. Va-.-. 95°.l W. May 1, 1868.— Tenth Igloo. h. m. 8. 10 28 29 30 24 31 20 36 6 37 38 45 ' '/ 66 57 67 6 10 30 35 40 2 Q. On 34', off 30'. S. 84° W. by C. O S. 86° "W. by C. Chron. slow on L. M. T. 1» 44". Var. 110O.9 W. 4 31 33 35 50 27 45 45 30 42 10 41 44 23 May 2, 1 868.— Eleventh Igloo, neak Cape East. h. m. s. 11 45 48 40 53 55 45 59 50 4 50 11 30 / '/ 71 1 1 30 2 30 2 30 2 1 70 56 2 0. On 31', off 33'. ON. 86° W. by C. O N. 8!3° W. by C. O N. 83.^0 ^Y. by 0. 0N. 83° W. by'C. N. 82° W. by C. N. 81° W. by C. N. 8U° W. by C. O N. 80° W. by' C. Lat. 09° 49'.7 if. 2Q. On Capo East. O to right to mark. May 20, 1868.— Fifth Encampment— Second .louRNiiv FliOM OOGLIT. h. 9 9 m. 27 29 31 36 38 s. 35 ' // 73 5 18 32 74 15 2 Q. On 32', off 32'. OS. 60° W. by C. S. 00° W. by C. OS. 6UO W. byC. 0S. 03° W. byC. S. 63J° W. l>v C. Chron. slow on L. M. T. 2C'" 4\ Var. 96°.0 W. 2 0. ON. 79° W. by C. ON. 78° W. by C. O N. 701° W. by C. ON. 7.''j°'W. byC. N. 73*° W. l>v C. Lat. 7»°'0'.8 N. ' Var. 101O.2 W. After mi 25'. June W, 1868.- -Sixth Encampment. Var. 870.8 W. 2 0-0 S. 860W. byC. O S. 87° W. by C. n 50 SO 41 h. m. 8. o / „ 52 50 42 8 43 27 71 2 2 0. On 32', off 32'. 58 40 45 W. 44 54 18 1 30 44 N. 89° W. by C. 45 57 29 5 15 45(?) N. 88° W. by C. 52 12 72 32 S. 7° "W. by C. 7 10 45 54 50 59 S. 19° W. by C. 8 50 43 30 58 24 73 33 S. 20° W. by C. 10 20 42 N". 8.5° W. by C. Lat. 68° 55'. 8 N. 9 32 55 0S. 20°-W. b'yC. 2 55 74 18 S. 21° W. by C. Var. 90°. 4 W. Chron. fast on L. M. T. 10" Var. 760.3 "W. 2 0. On 32', off 32'. S. 80° W. by C. 7". June 5, 1868.— Second Encampment on return. 11 55 25 91 21 h. m. s. o / // 11 53 25 87 11 30 2 Q. On 33', off 29'. 58 55 23 30 (•) S. 80JO W. by C. 57 10 87 12 Assumed long. 82° 5' "W. 1 45 25 S. 81J° ^V. h'v C. 2 13 5 15 27 30 0S. 83° \V. byC. 4 7 12 30 7 30 28 0S. 85° W. byC. 6 40 11 30 10 30 28 O S. 86° "W. by C. 9 11 13 27 30 11 3 10 Lat. 68° 48'.6 N. 18 23 27 55 25 27 23 20 S. 86° W. by C. S. 87° W. by C. Lat. 67° 22' N. Var. 84°.4 W. June 6, 1868.— Second Encampment. li. ni. .s. O / '/ 6 13 15 45 7 40 6 39 52 2 0. On 35', off 29'. Jl NE 19, 1868.— Eighth Encampment. 16 19 20 13 53 41 38 50 © N. 10° E. by C. h. 1 m. 46 s. 45 o 88 / ,f 2 0. On 26', off 38'. 49 g 87 46 32 Chron. fiist on L. M. T. 16" Lat. 00° !J4' N. 6». 51 45 6 27 29 30 35 10 89 34 17 4 to right to mark. Bear'g of mark S.72°E. byC. Assumed long. 84° 21' W. Var. 94°. 2 W. 5 57 40 46 3 2 0. On 19', off 45'. 6 31 33 47 i 36 53 43 2 0. 6 59 7 55 45 44 38 16 Cluon. set back 19 minutes. 1 34 25 28 0N 15°E. bvC. 6 37 35 7 8 N. 17° (>.) E. by C. 6 23 57 41 2 0. On 19', off 45'. Chron. fast on L. M. T. 5"' 9». 25 45 40 38 30 Chron. fast on L. M. T. 16" 7*. Var. 95°.2 W. 27 50 15 472 HaWs Astronomical Ohservatious, 1868. Astronomical ohservaiions made during the years 1864-'69 — Continued. June 23, 1868.— Ninth Encami'mkst. June 25, 1868.- -Eleventh Encampment— Continued. li. m. s. / (/ h. m. 8. , „ 4 15 0S. 50OE. bvC. 8 56 20 74 24 30 2 0. 21 0S. 40J°E. bvC. 57 22 35 Chron. fVist on L. M. T. 6'» 31». 25 O S. 46° E. by C. 59 02 26 27 S. 47° E. by C. O S. 47° E. by C. 28 S. 46° E. by C. 9 1 45 76 22 30 2 0. On 30', off 33' 30". 30 S. 47° E. by C. 0S. 21°AV.bvC. 32 S. 46° E. by C. 5 22 2e-. S. 22° AV. by C. 35 S. 45^° E. by C. 7 50 22 2i2. 22:j°AV. byC. 39 S. 44° E. by C. S. 44° E. by C. 43 44 45 40 49 54 0S. 44°E. byC. OS. 44°E. byC. S. 43J° E. by C. S. 43° E. by C. O S. 41° E. by C. 9 59 S. 37° AV. by C. mark N. 48° AV. by C. 10 5 OS.38^°AV.byC. 56 S. 41° E. by C. 59 S. 40^° E. by C. 5 0S. 4o°E. byC. 11 14 8 91 30 2 0. On 30', off 34'. 4 S. 39° E. by C. 2 0. On 32', oft- 32'. 15 50 37 30 to right to same mountain. 5 52 30 40 11 25 75 51 55 8 33 30 Chron. fast on L. M. T. 2" 32». 27 25 17 57 25 41 S. 24° E. by C. 29 10 2Q. 5 11 33 47 92 32 9 0S. 22J°B. byC. 35 35 35 10 S. 23° E. by C. 45 40 54 11 30 S. 224° E. by C. 2 0. On 32", off 31' 30". 47 40 57 2 0!. On 30', off 34'. 10 45 55 89 41 11 54 53 93 9 48 17 53 Chron. fast on L. M. T. 2°' 48». 0S.73OAV. byC. 49 17 58 57 37 11 0S. 74°AV.byC. 55 55 90 30 30 S. 51JO W. by C. 30 12 S. 750 AV. by C. 11 10 49 0S. 52° W. byC. 3 55 13 S. 753° AV. liy C. 4 36 91 8 30 S. 54° W. by C. 6 30 13 30 S. 7C'i° AV. by C. 18 S. r.(H° W. i.y C. 10 15 S. 77io AV. by C. 41 20 S. 7U° W. by C. 13 10 14 30 0S. 79°AV. by'C. 49 20 S. 70° W. by C. 18 S. 80° AV. by C. 52 93 7 S. 70° AV. b'y C. 20 11 30 56 55 10 S. 72° AV. b'y C. 22 5 10 S. 82° AV. by C. 2 12 S. 74° W. b'y C. Lat. 00° 29'.5 N. 4 40 12 S. 7.".° W. by C. Var. 77°.6 AV. 8 12 12 10 S. 76° AV. by C. S. 77A° W. by C. 10 15 9 S. 79° AV. by C. Lat. 06° 34'.9 Sf. Var. 75°. '2 AV. Kov EMBER 11, 186 8. — First Encampment. h. 8 m. 58 s. 48 ' " 2 i;. I. C. - 2' 30". 9 22 30 47 50 30 Tlier. - 20°. Jvs E25, 1868.— I LEVEKTII E.NC.UlrMEXT. Long, assmuetl 5^ 44"" 8" AV. Cliron. fast on L. M. T. 1'" 3". Lat. 00° 30'.7 N. h. m. 8 37 8. 30 113 / // 15 to risbt to.mounf ain. Eleyation 250 feet above sea. 2Q. On 30', off 34'. li. ] 'fovi SMBEH 12, 186S .—Second Encampment. 8 44 30 72 22 m. 8. / /( 40 10 38 8 17 47 52 2 li. J. C. - 2' 30". 47 30 54 30 48 40 50 35 Zj. S. 07° AV. by C. "3; S. 70° AV. by C. ■4 .S. 72° W. by C. 8 49 50 110 23 O to right to mountain. 9 10 11 S. 78° AV. by C. 52 10 109 47 Then - 28°. 54 17 22 mark by C. N. 48° AV. Var. 770.0 \V. Lat. 00° 3.V N. Var. 070.1 AV. HalVs Astronomical Observations^ 1869. 473 Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-'69 — Contiunod. November 14, 1868.— Third Encampment. h. m. s. 10 32 42 9 10 15 30 2£}. Ass'dlonjr. 51' 42" 12^ "W. O S. 72° W. by C. S. 75° TV. bv C. Lat. 66° 48'.8 N. Ther. - ]()o. Var. 750.1 W. November 17, 1868 . — Fourth Encampment. k. m. a. ' " 10 2 15 a.m. 36 43 2 9 . Ass'd lontr. 5'' 41"' 43» W. 5 S. 72oW.by'C. 16 37 8 $ S. 70° W. by C. 42 15 33 2 S. 83° W. by C. 52 32 Q S. 83° W. bv C. Lat. 60° 57'. 9 N. Var. 85°.3 W. November 18, 1868. — Fifth Encampment. 7 33 a.m. 8 53 32 43 30 2 ?. 5 S. 58° W. byC. ? S. 80° W. by C. Lat. 66° 59' N. Var. ge°.7 W. November 19, 1868. — Sixth Encampment. h. m. 7 11 24 40 33 44 51 30 2 -y. I. C. - 2' 30". ■4 S. 66° W. by C. ■U S. 60° W. bv C. ■U S. 72° W. by C. Tber. + 18°. Lat. 67° 1' N. Var. 8G0.4 W. November 20, 1868.— Seventh Encampment. 14 25 45 2 T|. Tj N. 790 W. by C. Lat. 66° 56'.5 N. Var. 83°.6 W. November 21, 1868.— Eighth Encampment. h. ra. a. 7 22 50 35 30 , ,j 46 43 22 30 2 T^. •yS. 9 Lat. 07° N. Var. 83° W. P'W.hjC. November 23, 1868.— Eighth Encampment. November 23, 1868.— Eighth Encampment— Continued. h. m. s. " ' 7 20 32 12 8 25 8 14 30 3 30 7 30 30 46 50 41 45 47 7 33 53 46 53 30 44 20 48 2 ^. Small sextant. I. C. - 2' 30". 2 1/. Large sextant. Lat. 67° O'.l N. 2 11. Small sextant. 11 N. 90° W. by C. Lat. 67° 0' N. Var. 870.5 "W. November 26, 1868. — Ninth = Fourth Encampment. h. m. ft. 7 53 57 30 8 3 7 40 46 50 49 43 37 2 %. ll N. 90° W. by C. Lat. 06° 57'.8 N. Var. 840.5 "W. April 13, 1869. — West side Pelly Bay. m. 55 4 6 10 60 55 20? 50 48 45 40 2 Q. On 30', off 35'. O S. 86° W. by C. S. 87° W. by C. S. 89° W. by C. S. 89° W. by C. S. 90O W. by C. Lat. 68° 30' N. Eighteenth Encampment. h. m. 3 42 45 49 39 41 38 26 2 0. On 21' 30", off 43' 30". N. 34° W. by C. 0N. 340 W. by C. N. 330 W. by C. Ther. - 12°. Cbron. slow on L. M. T. 9"" 4». Mae. var. 82°.8 "W. h. m. a. 6 41 49 20 7 25 32 25-. LC. -2'30" » S. 83° W. by C. Large sextant. Lat. 67° N. iPRI s. L21, 1869. — Twentieth Encampment. h. m. , // 11 47 66 30 2 0. On 33', off 31'. S. 65° W. by C. 52 3!3 S. 67° W. bV C. 56 30 »-, S. 72° W. bV C. 2 36 S. 74° W. by C. 7 35 15 0S. 76° W. b'yC. 12 20 33 30 S. 80° W. bV C. 18 29 30 S. f>5° W. b'v C. Lat. 68° 31'.1 N. 2 0. 5 37 8 26 45 38 35 30 30 57 15 N. 1.50 W. by C. 44 25 30 0N. 130 W. byC. 47 N. 12° W. b'y C. 51 15 24 12 N. 11° W. bj C. Chron. fast on L. M. T. 3" 41 ». Var. 70O.6 W. 474 HalVs Astronomical Observations, 1869. Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-'69-Coi3tinuecl. ApBIL 26, 1869.-TWENTr-THIKD EUCAMPMENl h. m. 11 41 45 49 55 5 11 16 20 43 69 46 25 45 5 55 45 45 45 49 51 55 56 54 51 44 42 45 33 48 20 51 25 57 25 58 44 2 27 45 15 26 42 25 30 15 2 a- On 32', off 32'. S. 5]o w. by C. S. 52° W. by C. S. 53° W. by C. O S. 54^ W. h\- C. © S. 57° \f. by C. S. 57° ^V. by C. S. 59° W. bV C. S. 60° W. bV C. S. 59° (?) at: by C. Lat. 68° 29'.9 N. 2 Q- N". 27° W. by C. N. 26° W. by C. N. 25° W. by C. Chron. fast on M. L. T 1™ Var. 610.3 W. JtnO! 4, 1869.— FOETT-FIEST ENCAMPMENT. 3o». APKIL 28, 1869.-TWENTY.FOURTH ENCAMPMENT. m. 32 36 40 42 21 30 19 18 15 2(0. On 27', off 37'. S. 75° W. by {;. S. 7(i° W. bV C. S. 77° W. by C. 0S. 80oW.-bVC. As. long. S' 55"J W Lat. 68° 2'.1 M". JULY 31, 1869.-LOW-TIDE Encampment. 68 35 67 18 3 51 2 0. On 32'. off .32'. S. 87° W. by C. I S. 88° W. by C. S. 90° W. by C. Cbron. slow on L. M. X 36"" Lat. 68° 38' N. May 13, 1869.— Thiktieth Encampment. b. ni. 8. 79 45 45 45 30 45 30 44 30 41 45 89 82 50 48 46 44 38 35 31 30 2 0. On 31', off 32' 30". S. 59° W. by C. S. 60° W. 1)V C. S. 61° W. by C. S. 62° W. bV C. O S. 63° W. b'y C. S. 64° W. by C. S. 65*0 -RT. i,y Q As. long. 5'' 46"' 40' "W Lat. 66° 29'.3 N. August 3, 1869.— Same place. 2 0. On 31' 30", off 32' 30" O S. 40° E. by C. S. 45° E. by C. S. 45° E. by C. S. 43° E. by C. O S. 40° E by C. As. long. (;» 2b'° 40« W Lat. 68° 23'. 8 N. h. m. B. o , ,, 81 4 8 30 13 15 15 18 15 18 15 17 15 1 2 0. On 32', off 31'. Lat. 66° 29'.5 ISi. May 16, 1869.-THIRTY-PIIIST Encampment. 40 19 21 23 25 25 0. Sea horizon. I. C. + 4' S. 47° W. by C. O S. 45° W. b'y C. S. 430 W. b'y C. O S. 41° \Y. by C. S. 42° (?) W. by C. As. long. 6'' 18"' W. Lat. 68° 32'. 2 N. May 23, 1869.-THiRTY.FiPrii Encampment. h. m. 83 38 39 40 41 39 30 2 0. On 26', off 37'. O S. 61° W. by C. © S. 62° W. by C. S. 64° W. by C. CO S. 60° W. b'v (;. Ah. long. ()!' 10'" W Lat. 680 33'.! N. ^gust 19, 1869.-NEAB Whale Point. h. m. .s. , „ 11 45 75 53 48 40 56 30 53 15 76 58 15 2 2 2 30 4 4b 30 10 1 13 25 75 .-.8 17 40 56 2 0. On .33' 30', off 30' 30" S. 29° W. by C. © S. 30° AV. by C. © S. 31J° W. by C. S. 33° W. by C. S. 340 W. by C. S. 350 W. b'y C. S. 360 W. bV C. © S. 380 ^r |,y (, S. 39i W. bV C. As. long. 511 51'" 40" W Lat. 64° 21'.7 X. August 20, 1869.— Same place. li. m. s. 4 21 35 24 37 27 37 43 11 42 32 2 0. On 33' 30". off 30' 30" O N". 70° W. by C. Watch slow on L. M. T. 30" Var. 340.2 W. August 29, 1869.-RowE'e Welcome. h. TO. 8. 35 35 0. Sea horizon. I. C. — 2' 30" Altitude of oyp, 14 foot. As. long. 5I' ,52'" 29' W Lat. 63° 27'.3 N. IlaWs Astronomical Observatiom, 1839. Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-69 — Continued. 475 August 30, 1869.— Eovve's Welcome. September 5, 1869.— Hudson's Stuait. h. m. 11 40 44 47 50 54 57 s. 45 40 30 30 15 O ' II 35 30 30 32 32 32 31 30 Q. I. C. - 2' 30". Kyo above soa, 14 feet. As. long. 5^ 45°' 42" "W. Lat. 63° 8'.9 X. h. 8 m. 7 s. 20 ' '/ 26 44 Q. I.e. -3'. Dip -3' 40". Watch slow on L. M. T. 57" 2». As. long. 4' SO"" 4' "W. Lat. 60° 54'.9 K. 11 20 35 35 35 35 September 6, 1869.— Hudson's Strait. September 2, 1869.— Hudson's Stbait. h. m. 8. / " ?4 32 Q. Sea horizon. I. C. — 3'. As. long. SI- lO" 40> ^V. Dip - 4'. Lat. 63° 5' N. h. U m. 16 25 s. 15 25 o / '/ 35 46 30 42 Q. I.e. -3'. Eye above sea, 12 foot. As. long. 4>' S" "W. Lat. 60° 20'.8 K. APPENDIX II. METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL KEPT BY MR. C. F. HALL ON HIS SECOND ARCTIC EXPEDITION, JULY, 18G4-APRIL, 1869. ^PPEIS^DIX II HALL'S METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL, 1864-'69. Tabulated by Mr. R. W. D. Bryan, Assistant in the preparation of this Narrative, binder the orders of the Navy Department. METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL, t Locality. Date. Ther. Monti- cello's mercu- rial Barom. Wind.: Sky. Remarks. At sea* 1864. July 5, 7 a. m. m. 6, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 8,7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. !), 7 a. ni. m. 7 p. m. 10,7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 30, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 31, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. Aug. 1, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 2,7 a. m. ni. 7 p. m. 1 o 64 68 65 67 69 09 71 70 60 64 68 58 54 57 60 In. 29.80 .84 .96 .97 .95 .90 .88 .80 .80 .83 .80 .78 .80 .80 29.97 Fog; rain. Lat. 42° 15' N. Long. 56° 37' W. Lat. 420 46' N. Long. 54° 56' W. Lat. 43° 18' N. Long. 53° 15' AV. Lat. 52° 27' N. Long. 59° 56' W. Lat. 61° 36' N. Long. 67° 00' W. Davis Strait. Lat 61° 37' N. Long. 67° 17' W. Lat. 61° 38' If. Long. 67° 34' W. [ j < 34 34 "'35' 36 33 31 37 31 32 35 32 29. 26 TisK . . 'Fre.sh J .30 .50 .62 .75 29.71 ENE....Gale. E.bvN.-.Gale. Calm Cloudv Cloudy Calm 1 Calm 1 Aneroid Bar. Calm Calm "WNW 2 W.by N....5 W. byN.. .4 SW 4 Hazy; clear - Hazy; clear. Haz'v; clear Hazv Cloudy . ... -.do 29.75 .74 .73 .68 .66 .64 *Hall sailed from Kew London, on board tho bark Monticello, July 1,1864. Observations were generally made thrice daily, viz, a. m., noon, and p. m. t The defective condition of hisin-strumcntsis frequentlyreferredtoin tho preceding pages of the Narrative. * Figures to denote the force of the \vind : 0, calm ; 1, light air ; 2, light breeze ; 3, gentle breeze ; 4, moderate breeze; 5, fresh breeze; 0, strong breeze ; 7, moderate gale; 8, fresh gale; 9, strong gale; 10, whole gale; 11, storm ; 12, hurricane. 479 480 HaWs Meteorological Journal, 1864-69. August, 1864. Locality. Davis Strait. Lat. 610 35' N, Long. 67° 51' W, Lat. 61° 39' Long. 68° 08' Lat. 61° 42' Long. 68° 26' Lat. 61° 48' Long. 68° 43 Lat. 62° 01 Long. 69° 00' Lat. 62° 16' Long. 70° 40 Lat. 62° 43' Long. 72° 33' Lat. 63° 48' Long. 75° 00' Lat. 03° 07 iLong. 77° 08' Lat. Long Lat. Long Lat. 60° 59' Long. 84° 27' Lat. 61° 33 Long. 85° -16' Lat. 62° 14' Long . . . 62° 24' 79° 34' 61° 43' 82° 00' Lat. 62° 08' Long. 88° 40' Lat. 02° 09' Long. 90° 20' Lat. 620 44' Long. 89° 40' Depot Island Lat. 63° 47 Long. 89° 51' Do Do Do Do Do Date. 1864. Aug. 3, 7 a. m. m. 7p. ni. 4, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 5, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 6, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7, 7 a. m. ni. 7 p. m. 8, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 9, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 10, 7 a. m. / p. m. 11, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 12, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 13,7 a. m. ui. 7p, m. 14, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 1.5, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 16, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 17, 7 a. ID. m. 7 p. m. 18, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 19, 7 a. m. 7 p. m. 20, 7 a. 7U. m. 7 p. ni. 21,7 a. ui. ni. 7 p. m. 22, 7 a. 711. m. 7 p. ni. 23, 7 a. m. 111. 7 p. m. 24, 7 a. m. III. 7 p. m. 25, 7 n. ui. III. 7 p. ni. Ther. Aneroid Bar. 33 35 31 32 82 32 34 34 34 33 36 34 33 38 36 36 38 38 36 38 37 38 38 36 36 45 41 40 41 42 41 39 38 37 40 38 39 41 40 41 40 40 39 39 40 40 45 42 42 46 43 42 47 42 40 46 42 44 47 45 44 47 43 40 46 44 43 50 42 In. 29. 62 .59 .57 .25 .31 .32 .42 .56 .68 .77 .79 .84 .91 .88 .85 .75 .67 .64 .55 .45 .38 .37 .43 .49 .53 .71 .08 .62 .53 .44 28.99 .89 29.20 .20 .26 .24 .20 .18 .22 .23 .34 .32 .34 .38 .46 .45 .47 .50 .48 .47 .47 .53 .58 .00 .63 .65 .63 .66 .60 .58 .60 .01 . 55 .53 .50 .48 .,50 .57 . 65 Wind. SW 2 SW 1 SW 1 NN"W 2 NW.byW..5 NW. tjVW . NW. byW . NNW' W. byN.-. W. by N... NW. by \f. NNW NW. byW.S WNW 5 WNW 3 S. byE 2 S. byE 3 S. byE 1 SE 3 SE 4 SE 4 SE 4 SE 4 ESE 4 Baffling 1 SSE 2 SSE 3 Calm Calm SE 4 E 5 ENE 5 N 6 NW 4 W 4 W. byS 5 SW 3 SW 3 SSW 3 NNE 6 N 8 NW. bvN...8 N. byE 8 NW 7 NW 5 NW 4 NW. byW..3 Calm NW. by W..4 WNW 3 WNW 4 W.byN 3 NW 2 NW 2 NW 4 NW 3 S 2 SSW 3 SSW 3 E NE 7 NE 7 NE 7 NE 4 NE. NE. NE . NE. NE. ...4 ...0 ..7 ...0 ..4 Sky. . . cl'dy. Hazy; cl'dy. ...do Fog Thick fog... Cloudy ..do ..do . do . do ..do ..do Few clouds . . do ..do Cloudy ...do Overcast ...do Cloudy ...do Few clouds . Cloudy ...do Few clouds . ...do ...do Cloudy Rain ..do Threatening Gloomy Cloudy ...do Few clouds . ...do Threatening Overcast --.do .. do ...do Threatening .. do Cloudy ...do .. do .. do .. do ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do Overcast. -- ...do Cloiuly .... Overcast. .. ...do , Cloudy . . do '. .. do Overcast. .. Cloudy Remarks. Passing showers. Sea-water 34°. Hy. 12. Sea- water 39°. Sea-water 38°. Hy. 12. Rain. Kain. Rain. Misty. Misty. Haz;^. Passing showers. Hazy i passing showers. Hazy. Hazy. Fog. Fog. Aurora in evening. HalVs Meteorological Journal. 481 August — September, 1864. Locality. Date. TUer. Aneroid Bar. Wind. 1 Sky. Remarks. 1864. o In. Depot Island; Aug. 26, 7 a. m. 41 29.74 NE ..5 Few clouds . OutheTendoi- m. 1 50 .70 NE -.4 ...do Helen F. 7 p. ni. 46 .68 SE ..1 ...do Do 27, 7 a. m. 42 .50 S . 3 do Fog. m. 1 52 .48 NW .4 Cloudy "Fog-eater" morn, but disap- 7 p. m. 44 .56 N ..3 Few clouds ' peared at 8. Do 28, 7 a. m. 40 .68 NNW. . . . 5 ...do ni. 44 .68 NNW ..4 ...do 7 p. m. 42 .70 NNW ..2 .. do Do . . 29, 7 a. ni. 43 .66 NE . 1 Cloudy Hazy. ♦Started .from *ni. 52 .66 NE. byE. .1 Few clouds - Depot Island. 7 p. in. 40 .68 S ..5 -.- do Aurora 12 p. m., fine. 30, 7 a. ni. 40 .75 NNW. ... . 5 Cloudy . ... Hazy. Lat. 64° 11' X. m. 53 .80 NW .2 Few clouds |LonK. 88° 41' W. 7 p. m. 40 .81 S. by E . . . 2 .. do Aurora. Landed 31, 7 a. ni. : 41 .96 N .... . . . 4 Cloudy Hazy. 1st Enct. m. 48 .94 S -.2 Few clouds . Lat. 64° 35' N. 7 p. ni. 38 30.06 S ..4 ..-.do Lons- 87° 32' W. Do Sept. 1, 7 a. in. : 35 30.00 s ..4 Cloudy Misty. in. ' 37 .12 s . 5 ... do - ... [arranged, but retiet. 7 p. m. 48 .18 s ..5 Overcast The barometer capsized and dis- Do 2,7 a. ni. 40 .26 wsw ..4 do m. 47 .22 s . 5 Cloudy Hazv. 7 p. m. 37 .24 s -.5 ...do Hazy. 2d Enc't. 3, 7 a. m. 38 .27 sw .4 ...do Lat. 64° 50' N. m. 45 .25 ssw .-3 .. do LonR-. 87° 15' W. 7 p. lu. 38 .37 s -.3 ...do Hazy. I)o 4, 7 a. m. m. 41 48 .46 .40 s WS"W .3 ..5 Few clouds . ...do 7 p. ra. 5, 7 a. m. 39 .40 sw Do 40 .41 s ..4 ...do m. 54 .35 s .5 Threatening 7 p. ra. 42 .06 s ..3 Few clouds . Do 6, 7 a. m. 43 29.93 s ..3 ....do m. 50 .88 s ..5 Cloudy Threatening. 7 p. m. 41 .88 s ..2 Few clouds . Do 7,7 a. ra. Ul. 39 49 .88 .76 N E -.1 ..1 .. do ...do 7 p. m. 33 .84 NE .1 Cloudy Threatening. Do 8, 7 a. m. 34 30.02 N . 6 ....do'. This morn spit snow. m. 40 .06 E.byN... .4 Few clouds . 7 p. m. 34 .14 N.... -.6 ....do 3d Enct. 9, 7 a. ni. 26 .24 NE -.3 Cloudy Hazy. 1 Encanipiuents Nos. 3, 4, 5, Lat. 64° 46'.3 N. m. 40 .14 NE ..2 ....do' Hazv. \ C. and 7 were all in the Long. 87° 14' W. 1)0. 7 J), ni. 32 .10 W . 2 ....do Hazy. > locality called Noowook. 10, 7 a. ni. 25 .02 W ..2 Few clouds . ni. 47 29.90 N. by W. . .2 Cloudy 7 p. m. 38 .93 SW...... ..2 Few clouds . Do 11, 7 a. m. 38 .93 SW ..3 Cloudy ra. 42 .89 SSW -.3 ...do 7 p. m. 40 .95 sw ..2 Overcast Kain one hour in the night. Do 12, 7 a. m. 37 .79 ssw ..2 Fog; misty . Thick fog. m. 40 .73 S.byW.. -.4 Misty Kain. 7 p. ra. 34 .73 S. by W... -.4 Overcast Do 13, 7 a. m. 35 .54 E ..3 Misty ni. 37 .32 ESE . 5 ...do Eain and heavy sea. 7 p. m. 35 .20 ESE - 2 ... do Rain during night. Do 14, 7 a. m. 37 .01 SSW 2 Cloudy Fog. m. 42 28.98 S -.3 ....do" 7 p. m. 38 29.04 NW . . . . 2 i....do Do 15, 7 a. ra. 35 .04 N. by W. . . -5 Overcast ra. 38 .34 N........ . 7 Cloudy Few clouds 7 p. ra. 30 .65 N ..5 Do i 16, 7 a. ra. 24 1 .84 N. byW. -.3 Cloudy m. 30 ' .74 NW . 3 ....do 3 p. m. ring around sun. 1 7p. m. 30 i .78 NNW .1 ....do Do 17, 7 a. m. 24 ! .76 ) NNE .... ..1 ....do ra. 31 1 ..70 W. bvN. .1 ....do 7 p. ra. 28 .62 1 WSW ..1 Few clouds . 4th Enc't. 1 18, 7 a. m. 30 .46 S .3 Overcast Lat. 64° 4(i'.5 N m. 32 .45 1 S . 2 .. do Long. 87° 14' \V 7 p.m. 28 .32 ESE ..3 .. do S. Ex. i 11 31 482 HaWs Meteorological Journal. Septembek — October, 1864. Locality. 4th Enc't. Lat. 640 4C'.5]Sr. Long.STo 14' W. Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Moved to 5th Enc't. iLat. 640 4G'.3N'. iLoiiK.87014' "W. t)o Date. Ther. Aneroid Bar, Do. 1864. Sept 19, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 20, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 21, 7 a. m. 7 22,7 7 23,7 7 24,7 7 25,7 p. m. a. m. p. m. a. m. p. ra. a. m. p. m. a. m. 7 p. m. 26, 7 a. ni. ni. 7 p. m. 27, 7.a. m. m. 7p.m. 28, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. in. 29, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 30, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. Oct. 1, 6 a. m. m. 6 p. m. 2, 6 a. m. m. 6 p. m. 3,6 a. m. m. 6 p. m. 4, 6 a. m. m. Cp. m. 5, G a. m. m. 6 p. m. 6, 6 a. m. m. 6 p.m. 7, a. m. m. 6 p. m. 8,6 a. m. m. 6 p. m. 9, « a. m. ni. 6 p.m. 10, 6 a. m. m. 6 p. m. 11,6 a. m. m. 6 p. m. 30 30 30 28 32 28 26 29 30 31 32 32 35 36 32 33 35 32 32 32 30 29 31 30 27 29 28 25 28 26 26 32 30 32 32 33 32 36 34 32 32 30 22 26 24 24 30 30 29 29 40? 20 26 26 15 15 13 12 10 6 16 20 19 17 17 16 16 11 12 In. 29.28 .36 .48 .64 .70 .73 .67 .62 .62 .57 .58 .58 .59 .58 .60 .58 .56 .58 .58 .50 .41 .38 .36 .35 .50 .49 .45 .41 .34 .46 .56 .58 .60 .52 .49 .46 .48 .44 .44 .47 .51 .61 .64 .55 .50 .44 .45 .44 .02 28.70 .56 .90 .90 29.02 .20 .40 .50 .63 .66 .64 .56 .61 .58 .30 .20 .20 . 53 .64 .75 Wind. NE 2 NE. byE...3 NE. byE...5 NE 4 N 4 N 5 N 5 N 6 N 5 inSTE 6 N. bvE 4 N 2 S 1 S 1 Calm S. by W 1 SW 1 Calm NIj; 2 ISTNE 6 N 7 NNW 4 NW 6 NW 4 N. bvW....2 NNW 4 N 5 NNW 3 NW. byN. .3 NW 4 W 2 SW... 2 SW 2 S 3 SSE 2 NNE 1 S. by E - . . . 1 SE 2 SSE 2 S 2 N"W 4 N. by ■W....4 NW 1 i NNE 1 S. by "W 1 SW 2 SW 1 SE 2 E 9 NE 9 I NNW 10 WNW 11 NW 9 NW 8 NW 9 NW 9 NW 8 NW 5 NW 4 NW 1 ENE .3 NE 3 N. byE 4 N. bvE 5 N.by E 7 N 8 NNE 7 N 5 N.byE 4 Sky. Overcaat. ...do .... Cloudy . . — do Overcast. Cloudy . . Overcast. Misty ...do Gloomy . . Overcast. ...do . .. ...do ... .. do .... ...do .... ...do .... ...do .... Cloudy . . . do Overcast. ...do ...do do Cloudy ...do Overcast . . ...do Cloudy Overcast ...do Cloudy ...do ..do Overcast ...do ..do Fog Few clouds Overcast . . Fog Rain Overcast Cloudy Few clouds . Overcasit . . . do . do . do Heavy snow .do ..do Snow-dril't . . ..do do do do do Few clouds .. do Clear Overcast . . . Cloudy .... Overcast... .. do ..do .. do ... do Very cloudy . . . do Eemarks. Snow-squalls in afternoon. Au- rora at night. Light snow. Snow and raiu. Spit snow now and then. Spit snow. fnight. Spit snow J in. Snow during the Snow. .Sun out for one hour this a. m. Snow. Snow began 1 p. m. 9 a. ni. fog cleared. Beautiful weather. 4 p. 111. bigan to cloud up. Rain during night. Rain began at 9 a. m., ceased at [2 p. m. Hazy. Spitting snow. Spitting Know. Spitting snow, Galu with snow begun at midnight. Gale ceased at 7. Ther. lowest in the night, 3°. At 7 p. m. fine raiu. Ther. 16°. Heavy snow began Bt 6 a. m. Heavy snow. Heavy snow. Snow-drift. HalVs Meteorological Journal. October — November, 1864. 483 Loca3ity. Date. .Oth Enc't. L.at. 04°46'.3N. Long. 87° 14' "W. Do Do . Do.. Do . Do.. Do.. Do ... Do.... Do..-. Do. Do Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. 1864. Oct. 12, 6 a. 6p. 13, 6 a. 6 p. 14, 6 a. 6p. 15, 6 a. 6p. 16, 6 a. 6p. 17, 6 a. 6 p. 18, 6 a. 6p. 1 19, 6 a. ] 1 6p. I 20, 6 a. 1 1 6p. ! 21, 6 a. 1 1 6p. 1 22, 6 a. 1 24, 6p. 1 25, 6 a. ! 1 6p. ] 26, 6 a. ] 1 6p. ] 27, 6 a. 1 1 6p. ] 28, 6 a. 1 ] 6p. 1 29, 6 a. 1 ] 6 p. 1 30, 6 a. 1 I 6p. ] 31,6 a. 1 Do Nor. 1,7 a. Do i 6 p. m. 7p.] 2, 7 a. 1 Do. Do. Do. 7p., 3, 7 a. 1 1 7p.i 4, 7 a. 1 ] 7p.i 5, 7 a. 1 1 7p., Ther. JAneroiil, Bav. "Wind. 5 12 13 26 30 28 27 30 28 30 32 31 9 18 2 1 12 2 20 13 16 11 18 3 3 5 15 6 15 20 26 16 ■ 18 . 21 21 10 12 ■ 7 1 ■ 7 2 . 10 . 7 ■ 10 . 10 1 • 14 3 15 17 25 28 25 10 11 ■ 1.5 ■ 10 ■ 15 ■ 31 • 36 15 ■ 2 2 13 7 In. 29.96 .98 .98 30.00 .00 .02 29.99 .99 30.00 .02 .01 .03 .18 .21 .24 .24 .19 .16 .22 .20 .36 .26 29.99 .70 .90 30.00 29.94 .76 .65 .62 .60 .90 30.36 .47 .56 .60 .52 .46 .42 .45 .45 .46 .46 .44 .42 .32 .32 .22 .06 .00 29.87 .40 .20 .18 .19 .19 .18 .18 .23 .2.T .30 .30 .23 .10 .10 .12 N 4 N 3 N. byE 1 SE .. 1 SE 3 SSE 5 SE 5 SE 5 SSE 6 SE 6 SSE 5 S.byE 5 NE'. 2 N.bvE 2 'S'S^ 1 SW 2 "WSW 1 NNW 2 N.byE 4 N.byE 6 N 6 SW 2 SW 7 NNW 6 ISTNW 8 NNW 8 NNW 5 N. byE 3 N N N. by W OTSrCV. . N N.byE N N" N.byE 4 N.byE... 3 N 2 N. byE.... 2 N 4 NNE 2 N. by W....1 N. bv"W....3 N..; 2 N 3 NNW 2 N 1 Calm W 1 SW 3 S 2 SW 4 S. by W 6 SW 8 WSW 5 SW 4 WSW 5 RW 5 NW 3 NW 3 NW 2 NW ... 1 N. byE ....3 NE." 4 N. by W... 8 N 7 E 1 Sky. Kemarks . Cloudy Overcast. .. ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do Few clouds do ...do ...do ...do .. do Overcast . . Cloudy Few clouds Cloudy i Overcast . . ... do i Cloudy do Few clouds . ...do I Cloudy Few clouds . .- do Cloudy - — do j Few clouds . | Clear I Cloudy I do Few clouds . 1 Cloudy i — do Overcast Cloudy Few clouds . . do . . . Overcast . . . Cloudy Clear'. ...do ...do Few clouds Overcast . - . ..do ... do ...do Snow Few clouds Cloudy do Few clouds do Overcast. . . ...do ...do Snow-drift . Overcast . . Cloudv . - . .do" Few clouds Light snow between 9 and 10 a. m. Snow began at 2 p. m. Snow. Snow, less than J inch. Thick ''liost-smoke" and "fog- eater" (foirbow) this a. m. Aurora. "Frost-smoke" tiUOp.m. Same as morning of 16th. Aurora. Between 2 and 3 p. m. snow fell. The large thermometeis stand this evening, one at 5°, the other at 6°^ while two small ones stand at 11°. I must keep register of each separately. Aurora. Snow began 9 a. m. and ended 5 [p.m. Snow-drift. Snow-drift. Aurora. Gale ended at 4 p. m. Aurora. [No record.] Aurora not so fine as usual. Aurora not so fine as usual. 1 J), m., sun.dogs. Aurora. Fog. "Fog-eater" (fog-bow) at m. and for some time p. m. Fog or frost-smoke nearly all day. Snow-drift. Aurora. Ther. lowest -f- 25°. Snow. Aurora. Snow and drift . Sun shiuin" from 11 a. m. to 2 p. m. through flviuir drift and falling snow lip ;:nd f.ir nut from land. 484 HalVs Meteorological Journal. November, 1864. Locality. Date. 5th Eiio't. Lat. «U0 46'.3N. Lons.87oi4' W. I 1)0 Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do 6tli Enc't Olio ' mile south of 5th Enc't. Lat. C4°45'.8N. Long. 87° 20' W. Do. 1864. Nov. 6, 7 a. 1 7p.: 7, 7 a. : 7p. 8, 7 a. : 711.; 9, 7 a. 7p. 10, 7 a. 7 p. 11, 7 a. 7 p. 12, 7 a. 7 p. 13, 7 a. 7p. 14, 7 a. 7 p. 15, 7 a. 7 p. 16, 7 a. 7 p. 17, 7 a. 7p. 18, 7 a. 7 p. 1 19, 7 a. Ther. 18 5 - 9 - 3 -1.5 -12 -24 -6.5 -25 -25 -10 -24 -20 -11.5 -18.5 -22.5 -19.5 -22.5 -29.5 -16 -27 -21.5 -14.5 - 8 -15.5 -11 -2.5 14.5 20 20 18.75 14 9 7 4 -11.5 —10 Aneroid Bar. In. 29.22 .28 .34 .39 .43 .34 .63 .70 .87 .01 .04 .04 30.02 29.97 .85 .89 .89 .95 30.09 .13 .18 .19 .19 .19 .20 .14 .12 .11 .12 .10 29.98 .93 .80 .75 .78 .84 .79 .78 .83 .86 .92 "Wind. WKW 6 srw 3 STV 3 SSW 6 SW 4 WS"W 4 NW 3 NW 5 NW 1 W 1 WNW 1 NW 1 W 1 Calm N. hvW....3 N. by W . . 4 N 6 N 5 NNW 5 N. byW... 5 N 4 NNE 4 N 4 N 2 N 2 W 2 W 2 WNW 1 WSW 2 WSW 2 SE 6 S. byE 3 SE 6 SE 7 SE 6 NNE 2 N.byE 4 N.byE 6 N.b'vE 4 NNE 6 NNE 8 Sky. Cloudy Few clouds . Clear ...do ...do ..-do Fc/w clouds Clear ...do Few clouds Clear -..do Few clouds - Cloudy do Few clouds . Clear -.-do Few clouds . ...do ..do ...do Cloudy ...do'. --.do Overcast . . . ...do Froslsinoko Overcast . . .. do .. do ...do ..do do do .do ...do .... Cloudy Clear .... Overcast - Snow Kemarks. Frost-smoke. Aurora. Aurora. Snow-drift. Frost- smoke. Frost-smoke. Fiost-smoko. Mistv. Snow. Snow. Snow. Aurora. Drift. * No sign jirefixod in Hall's MSS. t For the hrst nineteen days of this month two records were kept, tlio second of which follows. HalVs Meteorological Journal. 485 ■si Or-* O cf .2 S tctjo c u a i. o ^ * g g fe o o 1-9 5 C ■= O t- s 5 ■■ ■ S-.2 ; a ® ! ; "> l-o 5 . a o • c "■c'oo^ c,2 ; : (B liiO ■liH i> CO ir5 in Tji o LIMCOC'] .-(MTjiCCt-.-feSCO«CD-*'^CClCr-ii— r :p5 •^&^ i^^l^i^^^ r* "**• ■^ N w CO N ^^ > a K r' o OS ■*■*«> t-T- III II II II I I I I I I II I I I 1 II Mill 7 1 7 I I M M 7 7 I "-'-<-"-' I I '^ 7 O CD o I I ri 00 in 00 c^ I II 1 7 3WM 7 ■^«COOOQOCamOCi-t(Nt-rHOC>*<^ 7 1 '^"'^"•^ I I ']' f-ii-Ht-eoomcciOooM 7 II I M M C^ M N W 1-1 r-t Mi-t<05000CQC0OCNNCeOI>'^00 i-H i-H tH .H CJ rt I I COiH50i:50-«1"t>mt-iH I I I II I I ii7 l-t-»OTj«l>C0l:^O C4 O i-t I I CQO-«^!D-^OO00Oi-H>i5OO-* t- 1- t^ t> t^ t~ t- t- i>i> t^t^ t^ t- t^t> t- «^ a cj o Hi 1-1 486 IlaWs MeteorologicaJ Journal. > o !2; o 12; (0 1 Frost-smoke. Snow at 5 p. m. for J hour. Misty. Snow. Snow. Snow. Aurora belt 2° wide, from horizon NW. to horizon [SE., through the zenith, continuing 5 minutes. Snow-drift and peihai>s snow. Sun-dogs, for on(> hour, when sun rose. When sun set, glorious .sky opposite from horizon up 15°. Aurora lik<' one on eve of the 18th. Aurora belt similar to that of the 18th, with rays [from W. to SE. Aurora. Hall sick. Snow. Hall sick. Observed by Too-koo-li-too. Observed by Too-koo-li-too. Hall sick. Aurora. >. ^ 4^ > e 'ZITS'C ^ ^-1 c -§^ 66 : r ■ « I '. ■ 3*i . • <» ^ DO ■ ■ ■a 3 . ; ■ • « : ; ■ t-. "3 : 3 . :5 ■S : • ; : : g c'2 ti c .o : jo CO t* rj. CO CO CO C^ INI-H ■ XT. CO CJ to CD so to (O Bar. 30.11 .12 .10 29.98 .93 .80 .75 .78 .84 .79 .78 .83 .80 .92 .99 30.04 .12 .10 29.97 .95 .94 .94 .94 .93 :§ ir:i QC m fciM -M i.-; in t.-^ CO CO to to 1 a o s u .a H n '• '■ Oi M I 1 M 1 1 1 1 1 ' ' 1 ' CO : 1 COl> 1 I in in w* rH cfl CO crs cs 1 777 1 CO Q COC«CO»OOOCll>-fHO&CO'^iHNCOTt ° .H W IM W i-H i-H i-( rH *H rH ■ ■ tH 1 1 1 1 1 1 II 1 1 :: 1 ■ 1 COtOrHOl Ot^ 1 77 1 oi minmmomin mo m •■ oNr-JcOODS'i'M-JciTpWC^OWr-lwOTpiOi-fCO-^ • '•'^ ° 1-1 M M 5N rt i-( iH i-( t-H rH . . r-t 1 1 II 1 II 1 :: 1 '0 Hjt to ca 00 CJ CO 1 i7 1 o o in in lo tn in ■ > O '^ O in CO r-« »H O t* (M O O N O ^ Tji CJ t> l> CO in ■<*< I IcD *-* 1-t M CQ CQ t-H rH iH I-r rH • ■ rH 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ': 1 : 1 cq T*i rH 1-H ca 00 i777 1 Date. asssBBaeseseaBsssgaessesssssaE ee p.« p,rt P.n C-ci p.« P,K P-c: fi. K P, cs p OD irT o 'A aaa£ ,T. P.C; assEE 1^' aaaaaaa ,ci P.CJ P.P, 00' c^ C-l CI 1 5®mP "■33 C ; in N c_S°^ coo p-='*ti P P R ♦; p 33 R R R (5 ^ R ^ HaWs Meteorological Journal. 487 1 22, ^5f 1 H -§ ^le- •3 M g» « ..=57 1 ! 1 1^ 1 !fc ■2 3 J.S 1 ^^ - ;.^^ .-fs go 2 «'S°'n = a i ;.'a -i p-gJ'- C-i U g§°§-ni:nog3cD *^ g^oo os 000,03 gg . 1 : ; ! i'^ ! ! : ! -a . ■a -a 1 ! : 1 : ! lis 4^ 3 , . . 3 . ^ . 3 3 . . ,^ . .3 >. : :t>. : :^ : ; V. o ^ >) • o 5 ; : : i ; t. -^ 55 > . : : ; ;5 : ' » : : 5 ; : ' ^2, '. \> .'. ° .■■. :c;:,S»' >5'® ■ . . . .0 ■ .PR . . .U ■ ; ; ;l^;j • .O • • O . ■ • . ■ (i< OfR ■ • .O ;0 ;« CDeot^Q00000t-0000!OCOt>" ^^^^^^^^^ : -^ fc' & fefe fe^^^fe>.^ •°-:?5-=-° SS^J'^laJziZIzi^;^ •^•^^HH ,0 ,Q : •• : ■■5-3-5te;zi;zi !2;!2;^|2;^~;^i 1 l2;;zi;2;;2;??;^;^;^;!2i:2;;z;^^^;5^iz;;ziggS;?;fLi;z;;z; ^ >^ ^21 1?; |zi |z; 6 O 5 5: ^^i ^ ':^>^^'A-A-A'A OOOQOOOOiftOOI>-CCOCOt^as-*iCCOdir5T*OrfOX tftOCOCXMOOOCMC^t^O O-ti-^Otf^^DX-^ u .»lf5i-OtJ^OOOiOOSOr-.OOCCOOI>t-t-t>QOOCOiOSCiaO 000000ClOOrHr-0m OOCO-^-^COO(MfMT*IoOL':> fot^mccocJos 1 i I 1 1 II ! 1 1 1 1 1 II 1 I 1 M 1 1 1 II II M II 1 1 1 1 1 I 1 1 1 mm \n \ti xTi - m m »o m m m _, COOWCrS'*'si<^t>'t-e4tOt^Oc4c<10mffOOt-rHOOO-^i-1 COO^CSOOiCDOOOOO-^TH OlCOrHCStOCCTjl a o 1 M M 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 M 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 \r^^\r^\ri\n\ri\!^\ti^ mm ^xa mm .n o corHcom'*'<*coo«d:^i«oi>ocJw<©-«!t«Noc>0(DoO'*N cDeoTj5ooc;(Dt>b-OTjir-i ojcorHoicoodm H 1 ! 1 1 1 1 1 1 M 1 1 1 1 1 1 i 1 M 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 II 1 1 M m m m m mm m ut m m m m oC^'NcO'^mm(N(OOi-imcDoocsjO'^Tj5iMoocooi->*(o:'*mmos(No t-(Mooo--i;i>co r-Hr-«i-ir-tr-ti-tt-f-(,-l rH iHW i-irHT-lr-ir-lr-HMC)QOo i>o i>o t*o t-» t^ o t>o t^I>--H t^t^ l^t^ t-t- t» ^ QO^*"*"^'' CO''--- --0 ^ c-Tm p e (B ^^N -t-00 ^ 'gm^» Wo £ o Hi gSfcoPO ppfifip ppfi Pft ^■^ 488 HaWs Meteorological Journal. o O to 4:3 c*^ CO ly t 1 CO I (7 00 1 ' off ' 03 ' ! * M * I 1 I a I « I OD ■ B r3 , "X ■o . -o -a : . .'T^ . . . . .-a l-s l-c ■+j s ■ . 3 ■ a ■ . . .^ ■ « '3 .3 : 3 O c 02 .2 ' .2 '.2 ■ t> ■ . ■ C . OJ , 5 .^ • • C a >. .— 1 Lj- -3 t.^ri ;>•.—• ■.— ' t °'st 1- iF ii ii FiF ii III 11 ii i^-i^-^^ in m 1 111 r^ns f^ .Oft 1 ; ;fHO P=(UfHO :!jo :f^ucoooopnop=( 1 | : :ph '.pf^ [0 C^l (M W cr M -^ t^Q0t-O.-lr- -^J-CO OCO«Ord-tr(OC^ir3Wr-(^inM«3mOTH..jHr*<00.*'*irtrj«-*J* ind. : : ; I ' ■.^^>i '■ : ; MM ■ ^H H ■ K^ i : : i : : , B^ ; '■ ^ 1 - - -s ^^ H l^i ts* l^i ^1^\^ ^^ ^Iziiz;^;?;;^;^;^;;^ i^i^lzs^^i^ixa^l^iSzi^;^;;?!;^;^??;;^;;?^!^^^;^!^^^^;^; , O COCOCT coco NCOi-Ht^LOOTjiX-* 4noC0OXL0t^»HrJ"OOOL0-^OiMv.0CCt0"^O'*Oi.0C0vnO • CO CO CO C" COC^ (MMCOCCCO-^ifSiO^ eOt>t-C&OC.O:C5C10SCSQOCOO»n-^COCOCOCOCO-*'m«3WCOOOO cq >?^ ■• • m iT uo in 10 1.0 lO 1.0 10 m u^ n O X o »r 1 ) 1 -+ ■* '*co?Jwr-i-i.-icsoi ooocoi>or-ot-ot5'*coirio»o-'*Tt'cocicDt--«?i-'5 CO CO 1 1 Cl CJ W (M M CO CO C'l CO CI S^ t^ ;M !M CI d i-i 74 i-H r-l .-1 (M C^ r 1 C^ C^i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 CI 1 IT CJ CI CI Ci CI CI CI CI CI J 1 iJJ-i_[.l L_ in lO m ic irt in lo it n CO (OQO-^ 1 MI coe4 tJ'cocqoooooO'H t-r-;oo(dotdot-^».or~»r3-*iO'*'»t"<*'cocio;ooe£> 'eococoi^ OTlCICl (NtMdCl 1 1 1 II 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 M 1 1 1 11 : 1 1 1 1 la m uo 1.0 m if3 m in in 1 III 000 OOCOOOWOCOinb- CO'^'«Jciocr)XQO(-CO'-<00 oc-iod w CO 1 1 ^ i-( r-1 rl CI CI CI CI CJ CI CI CI CI ■-< Ci CI .-t i-l rl ri r-« CI r-l i-H rt r-1 CI CI CI CJ 1 1 M M j 11 M M II II 1 1 1 II M M 1 1 1 I 1 C^ W r-l M 1 1 II ir ifi in in in mm m mm -. W Tj< Ift c ^^ CO COCOC^ 1 III A ^oosoicot*t*«>oo -i^mw-^MTfeoini-i-^rcocicicir-i o-o «o co co co NCIrHf-iClMCICICJ CJCIClClr-(CICI.-HCJi-(t-.i- t^i> 1- t^ i^t- t^t- t- r^ t-i-- t-i^ t-t- i>t* t^t^ r^t^ t-t- i>t> t* e eo" t- cc Oi 0' i-T cf CO*" -r irT 0' t-" O rH rH f-l .-H CI CI CI CI C 1 CI C) CI 5^ :' : : t^ '. ■' '. winw 1 ^'p- c occ oscoooooo 3 apc apppppGPP 33 HalVs Meteorological Journal. 489 o w Q o reased rough NW. 44°. No.O. o 'A s-s a 1 t; M ^■^ t^ s. So 5 2 .3 7 1 1 ^° 1 .a ^ ^ 7 g e S S Sf go a ght wind fron e gale aud so le 'Welcome. W. ; two sho n water with haps snow, baps snow, liaps snow. o. 7 ther. mar ht, -39°, by t moon. t last night, - fine display. liSW.toNE. P3 f J 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 . last ni odeiat ht. or in t ft; ope Ft ; pel ■t; peT' ft ; JICl oke; !N oke. xst nig ut the oke. Lowes a very frozen an arc ^ ;; ^ By 9 p. m to a m the nig Open wa Aurora S Snow-dri Aurora. Snow-dri Snow-dri Suow-ari Frnst-sra Frost-.sm Aurora. Lowest 1 Halo abo Frost-sm Aurora. Aurora. Aurora ; Mercury Aurora ; 2 2° 2= e 3 S O 3 O 3 . fe^ : : : fe ^ -> ^ ^a^^.'A'A'^'A'A'A'A'A'i^ p^ ^^^^^^^^A^x'A^^)^,'(^)^'z'A^'A'A^<^.^i^fz)^6 b .oso;ciCsaiOioocecO'<*i{«'* -5^ in <©I>CQC3CI>CD:OCDL-COCC(XOOt>!C>COCCOOOOC;C:Ci ■ ■ M g ■ ■ 'S ■ ■ : ; lO in in in m m in o m p„. in m « ° rO CO (M (M M ^ tH r-l CM W 1 1 1 1 1 1 I 1 1 1 I t W ^«)CDaOO-*r-HOt*t> S o a m i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 M 1 1 1 Tl 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 'l 1 1 M 1 M M 1 1 I m *n m m m m m in in . n COt>rHCOeOCOCDTjirHOb-b- "C^MiMMi-H i-li-HrHt-l 1 1 1 1 I I 1 1 1 1 1 1 OS oooi>mroo(rq-«*t^cDOD-H^coM*irimrj<:scDOocci--;Go '• 1-1 i-H(MCb-r-(t-0:NiHOOQO OwCQ-NC-lrHi-l rHrH.Hr-1 1 1 1 1 1 I ! 1 M 1 [ o ooi--coO'*rHco-i>;oo«OFHt*T*«o 1 CM rHt- t-t^ b-t- I>l> t-t^ b-t- t-b- b-t- b-b- b- P rH "-I 1 1 ^^ i : ■ i=S +^ 00 -. • ' .1- 4i §2^" ; ; ^^® o o o O OOOOOOO £*" P I 1-1 i^uP P P c3 O P PflpOORP-s k.|P y^yA O 490 Hall's Meteorological Journal. Bemarks. E E E [£&:^ o c o c3 fl a oicccc c S <1 1 f/5 .9 1 3 1 § r3 a 1^ Snow-drift. Snow-drift. Snowdrift. Snow-drift. Snow-drift. Snow-drift,- C < 1 >> & o o 13 "3 . . o ■ • " o o e o IS ! 09 g 1 » • o e ® ! 1 » I i '■ "-Jo « ; ; ! « i s IS o Wind. ac ;z « ^ ^!z IT •>* C^ ■^ ■* ■* ■^ »r Cr* ;z m ^ IZ IN K Is IN ISilZiglZ t-XOOCDCOt-t-t-t-OO : : ; ;hshhh 4 s -g « a o t- o 1 ta o ■^ o 1 1 1 1 1 M 1 1 1 M M 1 1 1 1 1 'oot*W**i-lC^COC'3rcrOCQfCCOWlr-(MlN.-lCa(M 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ' Ja-^Sc • c p P c c ^ & o e P o o P Hall's Meteorological Journal. 491 Snow. Aurora. Aurora. Aurora. Aurora. Snow. Snow. Snow. Snow-drift. Snow-drift. Snow-drift. Aurora. Snow. Snow. Sky. Few clouds - ...do Clear Few clouds . -a . tea? PROC 3o ■a § : ^ : c a C % o c c Cloudy Overcast ....do fin 1 ^1 •■s t>-.c! oo ! oo OP^ «-§ o o - OP=H a o Wind. !2 coc HP _c 1 W 4 W. by K ... 5 W. by N ... 3 W 91 cr 03 a: ^ ^ cr !z oc oc IS a: oc ■^ ^ IT e ^ C^ ^ MCI cod l>!/!cca: p^ipi; 1 4 OS ! 1 t-^ o to o U'3 o Mercu'l ther. on Monti- cello. 1 M 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 o-*Minoooo^cooi£5iricJcacnoco^tC'Ocicocco0'*eo?aaiOsQOOOCoww 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 M 1 1 1 1 p a lis (iej c-ee fits p.cs ds ties (id p.« cici o.ci in in p, j^o r-t- t^i> i>t- t^t- C't' t-t-. t-t- i>t^ t~t^ i>t^ C'C^ t-L^ t-t^ t' So" t-.' 00 OT O" rH r-i Cf CO V irf O' t-" OO" ,— 4 ff4 C'l CI CI CO CO 1 1 .# ..,^0 S 2 ^ o e a t3 o c P (= P c p (^ ^ c p (^ c R c p 492 HaWs Meteorological Journal. -§2 a - F^ " O B^ ^ p. &^fc c o o ■ 2 o i. a ^ c s ^^5 "sec : !- • O so O -= = «§» t-CJrt't^Tj.MClCQOCOXOirO'^p ■< « « I. a« 1^^ |2;^^^«>2;^^gs!2;^!2;;5!?;Sai ^!^;zi;^;(z,;^;:z;^^S^i^;^;^;5:^;?;;^i^^S^ CONCJ.-lT*«t-t-mcO*i'!D5DWTHr-lWi-IN'xi<»HNeO 00^!M'^-^t^CS'^OOC^(MX"^CT^Or?irOh-0 ociOictot.':;coi--r-t-t-cDCDiftcoro(M'-torH O tJ I I I III I I I I I I I 01C C CO t- (M CI CO rH I I I I CO CI c ot oc =: »ri CI a d o ci -rt- 1- --t — o cci cc -^ 7 1 """ I i7 77 77 7 I i7 J_iJ.L±_i_J_l_L Mill p4eg I- L- I- t- m mm m 7 I ""''i iT J_T_77__i_i 1L mm m 00«OOOWOOOCOMXf-HOi-'-rj5oO^«i-lOSC*lCOCO J j1_^"j_j 7_77 JXl Li J J_ sasssBsasBBBEESseEaeas Pl>- t^l^ l^t^ t*t^ t- 00 J, so g. titi a !^S' R-eStI « isa! HaWs Meteorological Journal. 493 s a 00 .^ 'A ■^ o' a a ^ 2 I " _ "I Sg'~ -"t H 11.3 o o ! o a ■ g5 •a y ..a a is ^ o =" a g g P-3 S-* » =8 § O K '■O .^ .fH O . o . . o :g : :a . en . . t» «D i> eo «D U^ Cl C<1 -^ t- t- <0 CON M ^ in o rt» »o CO ^^^A'A'A'A'A'A'A'A'A'A t-^ in m 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 : : ?? • 1 in ^tI '-' f-H i-H V< §|1 ■a a'S-g .9 Si-a 3 cs -A*^ » ^.a S rci. gong s.3ga ^ " O 4> 0^ (J ^- 5 oa-a n 11 c3 "c a 2 • M -stca ^fl'^S'^'SSa^ -1 5 op • t- t- ?1 : II tf 09 . . . ^a : : ; ■ M : : ; • CO CO I I O ^ -^ CM O C m m in m CC 00 c " * 7 CO CO CO CO CO M I 7 I -^ in i — :t8. 5 —34.3 77 lO m t> CO CO C*S CO CO (M I 1 1 I \\ !>• o m CO CO CO CO CO I I I I a aaaa to 00 00 -, 00 Cl o o 494 HalVs Meteorological Journal. ©m w ^ in ■" o ^ .. i " OH . s'S .2«o p pOl o o O O O f;^ O Q O 6 1^ ^ w qy g ';:! o 'S "C 'C g" O .0 g O O O 3 a o . oc ■= I c m 11^ OD -a l-a 3 ■ 3 1^- 1 P^ OPh ; w WC0^mC0l>O.-"r-l (« ■ -a : rs '.r3 : '. 3 , a . s ■ . ^ ■ • II c o II I I I I I ' I I I I I I I I I I I I II II I I I \fi an 10 ir, ir: _ 1.0 C* Cl CO CO iH CO CO rH CO CO rH ^ r- rH ^ rH W M i-4 CJ 04 t— M I II f I l7 I IJ_ II Li I I I I I I II I I M L r-t-ii^cicocoeooooiiocc ocociTfOscoo .. . -"-.COCOWCOCOfNCOWiMri rOClCOCOrHCOCO -COC^ r-*f-H (NtH 1— r-lC0i I fT n" n I I I 7 I I f n I : II i i i i ii i i i i i7 i i i sa aaaaaaaaasass ssassseaas aaaaaa aaaaasaaaaa C3 cia S.C3 (id c-n i n PicS ;2«rt P4C3 p.a fta (its p. a P.e8 c. t-f t-t- t-t- t^i' I- t*t^ t^ t^ t- 1^ 1^ t- t-t- h- :^ ^' o i^^S- • 5^- CO Uco'^ C-* o d oS Hall's Meteorological Journal. 495 00 I-H o « OQ a ^ m p, 1 1 o t g o 1 ■* ■ >? 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'O .fHOfi* .O i^OfHOfH ;WoPh ;OOCJ \ ;&^0(i(0 ■X (Mr-(r- c^ «-*p- ■*!> t- OQC cc r> t-osQC »■* tHC^ C~ ,-(-^comMiocoiMC^ r- - - -* -fj^ C4 C^ CO M O" - .g fe^ Ed ; "A 'A •32 ^ : ^ • &: r 5 ^W^%^^%^. ^^^^_& .-«.• ! Is .00 0>OOr-l.-t.-lr-lrH»H(NMCi:JCQCi:i-*»nWCDC0«0iX)i«Tt >Soi'o Ot:*t-QOtr-t*l>l>l>l>t-iOO(MCOOO'«*'OSW5 H (M.-tiHr-lrHiHTHiHfHrHiHi-<(M(NfMC0»O'X);OI:* n loift lo Win 10100 7 77 iT7 III III II oi O iO ICIO »0 lO n C0OC0M«DOC0Oi0C0C0O«dC<10sm»0ldiHrH'^ "CJ CJtN C-tr-l r-ti-( .HrH iH II II III 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 II lo »o lo lO m »o rt eD^(M(MNCOr-i00-^COt«MCC *-'C4 1— (CJ t—li— 1 1— 1 rHiH 1 11 III 1 M 1 1 1 1 II if> in lo oio lO Q C0iHTtM 7 1 77 1 1 77 1 i7 1 i77 i i O »0 IC5 lO lO *0 Q rH— i(0(0OC0OOi-lTj*OCD'*Ol0OOmC0t-'H 7 77 77 1 i7 1 i77 i i lO omiftioio U5ifi inio - «(N»OOSc4!Ni-HQOCOOacO'^i-HOiOC.l0OC0Ot-C0OI>C cot^to COt-O COt-«5 coi^eo Mt-. CO .-or-:o coi>:o :ot^*.o cot-o eot- 1 TO o" ■-T c^i" CO V in * n ^ Sac 4m == a . o Hi OS,* : >-.oS a c 7th En 64° 4 long. Do Do. . Do. Do *0n wa 7th to camp ment, 55' N 87° 27 Do Do. Do Do. S. Ex. 27- -32 498 HaWs Meteorological Journal. to 00 S o o o o -^-^ o- O O 00 o o led) o 3 •" — .X « te ^ te J> ,3 B PI O O (D 00 (D^ fe ^ ^ & ^ &■ ^ 2 o o o o o o g o o a a a a H CO 72 CC 73 CC 02 00 +f d d J3 o o o^a -t> o o (» o o — "^-^ -li 6 6 CO o o I >>>^ t: © o ri rt C8 hS3 •a t; ^ ^ te t; g o o o » HaJOJTsH ,2 M _* i i I dj 2 © N A S ja s ^ fc Q tSl N S3 -7- t-.a >i MOO ^■'3 g'O o ;o loo ; if^ooo '• •ISO :oo ; >5C3 oo ; >=C8 ^ P* ; ;^ ; ; > OO . .o . -o OC0C^CCC0'^i0l0»0'^i0t-00t"«ir5iC(MmTjHHH^ C«(ilHa3I/2[/373..CC7375l/3t>P-F* F4 sews •^^ -: .^iw^^^'JuyjdiJi'JA . . ij^ t#^ c/J t/-^ r^ f-^ »^ L, i_j LJ : ■ hi h*N , ^ ^ - coeo^N(Nii-iiHm i§(si)z;^^HPii dM«*Tr'coiot-omwooiCTt«-iO'^o:-*oooiCiMcot* .«o COl>» CO t- o a4p.e« COt>Cl CO t- eo_r aaaa «' fid «0* C05; aaaaaaaa P.P.e CO rt l> CD eot> Pi hSf bs o a P 00 S-^ o H •S P.S>M >> . i "^ § . * * Sp. as P-mt- goco .■-•a S a P- q J5 P s"g •►^i .P OJ ^ O^ PH +- C) P.!n 1 a=^i ga. EalVs Meteorological Journal. 499 s a •a ^ •■-■ffei ^ -f, O o o .. 3 .- ^ = ^ 5-d 2 ^ 2.m^ E-ic« "Sex _' E = « — UK r-i ■s^ fez's g i. •- o > I -•^ o - o 1 u to >, '3 >> ^M "S«i a 'f a ^i I- 55 s J -00 S o o x'T ■ 3 O O oHri --= ^^ ^S «»-( v-s^'- •a-cs-c 0000 a a s s tcxxcc a a xcc o o o = c s 00 ■< 2 ■ ■ n em ^ >-, >>C3 •300-^0 'sg»'2 = -'="=' = - f 3 ° K^ ° ^ ;53 pjtn ^eoi^ •H.HMf-ieo M« cflt*i>»o " -Sfe^^S ^^^^ ^\s\'^%.-z,'^'i£i,xn^'Af^xn coMoa^ Ti'IOOCaOaOQOWOt-t^t^t-^Oiat-O*©!-! :te :t> :>■ izi ;zi jzi ih; l^p !2i ^ ;zi ;z: ^ k^ Iz; ^ !zi >:; ?^ 5 I I "* I I II . * .V aaaa a aaaa asaasasaaaaaaaaaaaa CO . 00-^ eoi>co cot- c^ t> to 1^ .5 (i.&si 3 a 2 2 ^ ^ ~ 3sa --^isj — - ja-3 "^ "^ c^ "~-+- — i! „ o -H 3 CC ^ S ct ao 500 HaWs Meteorological Journal. Made by Too-koo-li-too. «>> I -I .M .Sf '3 9 *i& •- "5 fe b •- • •" ^3| o o a a o o a o 0:02 000000 a a a a B d tCMMCCCCM -So O ti'S O O < ; >° ; . .00 . . 00 : OS'S ;Z^^ O^ ;:" O > ^ ■ ■ > S ; > W -< § ft-Goeo»0'^o ^^ ^&^ HfL)g^;zi(2i;2i!2;;2;^izi^^^^;2i;2i aa aasaasaaasa aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa in *o to . 00 1-1 cot^eo cot--. °l .-a 3 «_ ® . r 01 ^1 'V ^-'^ u . -a ©^ - a •s ■" « ^ .a ° ^ .a "^ r- a n^ a oa s W"-" — ^ p,:- 3 t; o -g a ° ^-a s o a .aH-^ " a H-K to o « ^ >iC3 >>C3 >iCS • ■ - loo : :o : : : ; :Woo ; : : : : :oo : ; ; : ;o :o : o o o o'S o lftP3C0 COt-!D «l>0 CCt-«0 COt>CD COC-O COt-«D COt-O CCt-- ^ t-' oo" oT c"" ' ~ " " " cj w w c-i bt o a 2 a 1 ^J &§, .2p< a" E a a-P, ti W^a=C,;0 c c c c •I5 -^->^53 -a 0) 4J a" c P fi p p n ^ fl "*^ §0^3 °3 P M* C3 C-l CO 502 HalVs Meteorological Journal. Made by Too-koo-li-too. si bs ■a s g o HtCM Pi ■ ■ ^ ■»e ^4i o eo .3 .M ^^ ^ iih • ^^ 'Old ^ % iiS> . & P P :. il - ... .-3 3"^ g o o o g o •^ a a a 3 3 a ^ « Oj: St* Y-" M = & ^ t; a-a a o o " -" " 3 a a;f3 to .sag g 3 3 — (-=>-, -- H 02 OU .C t-5 "2 t» --S 3-0 s-a 3 -o te gns-a-o te o'o ara-a-a'a S-o-o-o O .O .O 'liHO . • •C'lO .Q . . . .O I • . '3 o g o o o 3-3 Sts'S'O O U ;0 II CO iM D5 r-l in l> Ol 0> lO «0 (O lO <0 lO in CO (M CO (M iH rH m »fl CO W (N ■«*» 00 I> in CO N^^ ^^^^t ;z;MMMH!zi;zila;^!zi^;zi|zi ;zi:2i^^^^^^;zi!zi;zi;zi;zi^gg^^ ^^ ^ ^ CO rH CO »■ !z;lzi 63 1-5 < saaaaassaaass aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaa P«p4e3 p,&cs f^Ptdi COI>«0 cot-CD COI-!0 copied a,p.c4 PiO^cS ftP*c3 P4P.C3 &p4e^ P.p4ce p.a CO t^O CO t>co CO t^«D cot* to COIXD CO t>o CO t^o CO t> 3p. fX& bJD gw ^W-(?;*o 5s c£ a "q ^^ .■T^ <1^ i. Q, " a^ass « I w a a CO a ..ag .£.j3 w " "■ J o °^ ---a „ =^ " HaWs Meteorological Journal. 503 CO 00 1 1 Ther. lowest last night, 28°. Sun out. Halo round sun. Snow. Snow. Little ice on the bay. Snow. Snow. Sun out ; ther. lowest last night, 81*. Sky. :" ; • : Overcast ...do ...do ....do ...do ....do si"' .-3 Ilj 09 a ■V 1 ' I 00 00 r- 1- N (N r-; lo to rt ea :>,t^ : ; >-.hk ' -'PP ^ ^ ^ 30.23 .10 29.74 .72 .70 .70 .91 .90 30.00 .02 .35 .42 .47 .50 .00 .03 .08 .74 i 1 1 H a o <^ 1 o ^ o •* o o«! o - - 05 o ■ coco . . . .coco CO « CC^ ^ COCO^^COC^STp Tj. CO «5 o Date. d C.C.S ic-ta (iiiis iid p-ics iia p.c.cj c,p.>4:3>iitll 4: : ! * ! ! I ! ! : ! : ! 1 ! ! ! <>> ! 1 I : ; ! : : i I 1 ; I I . 1 ! i'o I : ■•; •*;.... e . . • ■■so t'ltOO, •••Qt< o'2 £■« ocoo£'^ooo"oo n3 3-3 -co S g'O'e'O'O S S^lrSTl ^■3'd ",2 ; ; * l>»2 " ' ! ! t*-.-? ; ■ ® i ; .0 : . .00 : . ; 'po . . .p=( . . 1 : : ;'« ooooHooooooo 0'^ S ; ; ; ;0 I ; ; ; ; ; I Jo : ;0 : : 'P .5 : : : ; : \ -CO-^ W W f-( W W iH i-( tH r-( r-4 CO « l« Ift -^ •* 05 ^CCWCOMT-(i-IC«.-lMNCOC'.'.'.'.'.',','.'. I 1 1 1 1 1 1 ; ; 1 1 1 ! 1 : : 1 ; ; ; : ! i ; i : i ; i i ; ; i : ; : o ; ; ; ; ; :::;::;;::;;;::;:;; 1 c& o : i : ; : i : ; : ::::::::;:::::::: ::;:;;::;;:;;;::::: irf o ! ! I ! I A 1 H Tj» t-OC0M00«001CKNOi-i|>e000O00OO'«J' . . .0 . . .-flf ->*Tic& COt>CO COI>CO cor^cDtt e<5t-« mfco Mt^co Mt^o «t^ J-ic^ ^ N « ■*" in O 1 I" t-s F: 1 >> §5 > p.% bb o w«>^s:e a d d d d c «^"!^S d d d ^g. oP Q P p QP g- P P P w ni-Hoo ssss CJ C4 HaWs Meteorological Journal. 505 . <3 p o Sj3 ^S tJCtC & « So ■" t; rf o (O.W fl .00 cj O =2 sy tf w^ J" ^ S-S 0= 2 HHOoH H H Si ■^ m • ~u o p ".I ^ ai 51 2 P. /a g-a S 13 -a 13 -a -o -a g-a & g'^'s & | ^'3 ■■a :p^ :u :o 00 D •-5 M WfOCO^fH HH 'ate 'h ■ ".-ir-ir^ V^-^^ iH iH rt C^ CO ?5 ?1 H ?1 -<# ■* -.J* -* o f50 P4P4CS 04 p4 cot- I o— .- M SfHOO 506 HaWs Meteorological Journal. July— August, 1865. Locality. 22d Encamp- ment; lat.6B° 19' N., long. 85° 29' "W. Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do Date. 1865. July 17, 6 a. 3 p. 7 p. 18, 6 a. 19, 20, 3 p. 7 p. 6 a. 3 p. 7 p. 6 a. 3 p. 7 p. 21, 6 a. m. 22, 3 p. 7 p. , Ca. 23, 24, 3 p.] 7p.i 6 a. 1 ] 3p. 1 7 p.] 6 a. 1 Aug. 3 p.m. 7 p.m. 25, 6 a. m. m. 3 p.m. 7 p.m. 26, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 27, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 28, 6 a. m. m. 3 p.m. 7 p. m. 29, 6 a. m. m. 3 p.m. 7 p.m. 30, 6 a. m. III. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. lil, a. m. m. 3 p. in. 7 p. m. 1, 6 a. m. jn. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 2, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 3, 6 a. m. m. 3 p.m. 7 p. m. Ther. 3.1 Bar. In. 29.91 30.03 .19 .28 .33 .40 .55 .56 .54 .52 .50 .43 .37 .12 .24 .30 .35 .36 .22 .22 .20 .16 .15 .10 .00 29.54 .50 .48 .48 .60 .71 .80 .93 30.08 .10 .17 .23 .30 .32 .35 .44 .50 .44 .43 .40 .31 .13 .00 .03 .05 .03 .04 .06 .08 .04 .02 .02 29.94 .92 .96 .98 .92 .92 .92 .84 Wind. NW.. N NNE , ira"E . NNE NE... Calm . Calm . Calm . SSW.. SE SE ... SE SE NN"W NNW , NNW . NW ... NW .. "W NW.. N NNW . W SE .... SE SE SE S NNW . NNW . sw ... NW... NW ... NW... NW ... NNW . NNW . NE . . . . F ss'w" ' '. SE .. . Calm . . SSW .. SSW . SE NNW . NNW . NW ... NW ... SW ... SSW .. SSW .. SSW .. SE SE SSW .. SW . . . . Calm . Calm . . Calm . . N NW ... WNW. NNE.. NNW . NNW . NNW . NW... NW... Sky. Cloudy — do Few clouds Few clouds . . do Cloudy .... Clear Few clouds Cloudy v. Ao .'.'.'.'.'. do Few clouds ...do Cloudy do , ..-do ...do Few clouds Cloudy . . V.Ao .'.'.'. ..do.... ...do.... ...do .... Overcast . ...do .... .. do ...do .. do ...do , .- do Cloudy .... Few clouds Cloudy Overcast . . . ...do .- do , Cloudy ...do .. do Ffiw clouds ...do .. do ..do Clear Cloudy .... ...do , .. do Few clouds ...do ...do , Cloudy .... Cloudy Overcast .. do Kemarks. Overcast ..do Few clouds . do Cloudy Overcast ..do Cloudy .. do Ther. lowest last night, 38°. Ther. lowest last night, 39°. Ther. lowest last night, 40°. Ther. lowest last night, 38°. Fog. Ther. lowest last night, 39°. Ther. lowest last night, 38°. Ther. lowest last night, 37°. Fog; passing showers, thunder, and lightning ; ther. lowest last night, 39°. Fog; misty. Fog ; drizzling rain. Fog ; drizzling rain. Fog ; ther. lowest last night, 34°. Ther. lowest last night, 32°. Drizzling rain. Drizzling rain. Drizzling rain. Ther. lowest last night, 34°. Ther. lowest last night, 32°. Hazy. Ther. lowest last night, 33°. Ther. lowest last night, 36°. Hazy. Fog; misty; ther. lowest last Fog; misty. [night, , 36°. Fog. Fog. Ther. lowest last night, 85°. Ther. lowest last night, 39°. Kain. HaWs Meteorological Journal. August, 1865. 507 Locality. [ 22d Enc't. Lat. 60° 19' N. Long. 85° 29' W. Do Do. Do. *0n jouraey to I 23d Enc't. I "23d Enc't. iLat. 66° 30' N. 'Long. 86° 3'W. Do Do Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Date. 1805. Aug. 4, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 5, 6 a. ra. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 6, 6 a. m. m. 3 p.m. 7 p.m. 7, 6 a. m. *3 p. m. **7 p. m. 8, e a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 9, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 10, 6 a. m. m. 3 p.m. 7 p.m. 11, 6 a. m. 3 p.m. 7 p. m. 12, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 13, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 14, 6 a. m. m. 3 p.m. 7 p.m. 15, G a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 16, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 17, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 18, C a. m. m. 3 p.m. 7 p.m. 19, C a. m. m. 3 i>. m. 7 p.m. 20, 6 a. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. Ther. 3. Bar. In. 33 29.82 45 .78 42 .80 35 .84 32 .92 44 .84 46 .84 40 .85 32 30.00 44 29. 98 ■ 44 .96 36 .92 37 .74 47 .70 45 .67 40 .60 38 .53 45 .60 47 .64 44 .68 38 .70 45 .67 50 .70 41 .82 40 .90 42 .95 44 30.02 40 .10 36 .26 37 .30 39 .30 35 .38 35 .45 46 .42 43 .42 38 .45 40 .35 42 .30 42 .28 40 .25 39 .11 44 .08 42 .08 40 .10 38 .12 48 .14 46 .14 42 .10 42 .18 48 .15 46 .14 42 .14 36 .18 50 .08 44 .06 38 .09 38 .20 50 .24 51 .25 40 .33 39 .35 47 .41 50 .46 42 .50 40 ..50 44 .52 42 ..52 40 .54 "Wind. KNW 6 NNW 5 NNW 3 WW 4 NW 2 S 2 S 3 S 2 wsw !'.!'.!'2 ssw 2 SS"W 2 SE 4 S 1 SE a SE 3 NE 4 NW 3 NW 5 N SE 3 W 5 "W 5 W 6 W 6 WSW 5 SW 4 SW 4 S"W 2 SSE 3 SE 4 SE 4 ESE 3 ENE 2 NE 2 E 3 E 2 ENE 3 imE 3 NE 4 NE 4 NNE 3 ENE 2 SW 1 SSW 1 ESE 2 SSE 2 SSE 2 ESE 2 WSW 1 W. byS..-.3 SW 3 SSW 3 SE 1 E 5 E 6 ENE 4 ENE 3 ENE 2 NE 3 E 5 NE 2 NE 1 W 1 WNW 1 E 1 SW 2 SW 3 SW 1 Sky. Cloudy . . . . . . do ...do ...do Few clouds Cloudy ..-do Overcast . . - Cloudy ...do ...do Overcast. . . Cloudy Cloudy Few clouds Cloudy ...do ...do ...do ...do .. do ...do...... ...do Overcast . . . .. do .. do ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do .. do ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do .. do ...do Eew clouds Overcast . . . Cloudy '.! do .'.'.'.'.'. Few clouds ...do Overcast... . . do ...do .. do .. do ...do ...do ..do ...do Cloudy Few clouds Cloud V Few clouds do Cloudy Kemarks. Ther. lowest last night, 32". Ther. lowest last night, 28°. Ther. lowest last night, 31°. 8 p. m., ram. Eain ; fog ; ther. lowest last night, 34°. Fog ; great refraction. Kam. Kain. Ther. lowest last night, 35°. Ther. lowest last night, 34°. Sprinkling now and then. Ther. lowest last night, 36°. Kain; ther. lowest last night, 36°. Rain. Rain. Rain; fog; ther. lowest last night, 33°. Rain ; Rain; Rain; Rain; Rain. Rain. Rain. Rain; 39°. Rain. fog. fog. ebb tide sets to the SSE. ther. lowest last night, 38°. ther. lowest last night. Fog I'og Ther. lowest last night, 40°. Ther. lowest last night, 36°. Rain. Raiu ; thor. lowest last night, 38°. Ther. lowest last night, 38°. Ther. lowest last night, 37°. Fog. 508 HaWs Meteorological Journal. August-^September, 1865. Locality. Date. Ther. 3. Bar. Wind. Sky. Eemarks. 23d Eno't. Lat. 66° 30' N. Long. 80° 3'W. 24th Enc't. Lat. 66° 20' N. Long. 86° 18' "W. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. 1865. Aug. 21, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 22, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 23, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 24, 6 a. m. in. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 25, 6 a. m. in. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 26, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 27, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 28, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 29, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 30, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 31, 6 a. m. Do Do. Sept. 3 p.m. 7 p.m. 1, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 2, G a. m. m. 3 p. ra. Do 25th Enc't. Lat. 06° 30' N. Lon(r.86°44'W, Do 26th Enc't, Fort H()i)o. Lat. 66031' N. Lonft.SOoSG'W. 1)0 Do. 7 p. m. 40 3, 6 a. 111. 33 Ul. 4, 6 a. ra. 27 m. 44 3 p. Ul. 44 7 p.m. 37 Tt, 6 a. m. 25 m. 42 3 p. m. 40 7 p. m. 34 6, a. ni. 26 III. 48 3 p. in. 48 7 p. m. 36 7, 6 a. ni. 35 Ul. 47 3 p.m. ."iO 7 p. m. 40 In. 30.57 .57 .61 .65 .62 .58 .46 .48 .34 .22 .10 .20 .12 29.94 .92 30.00 .00 .01 .02 .02 .19 .24 .30 .36 .40 .43 .42 .46 .52 .43 .40 .36 .10 .10 .10 .11 .32 .32 .32 ..SO .24 .14 .14 .20 .30 .32 .34 .34 .48 .50 .48 .48 .58 SW.. ssw SSE . Calm S .... SW.. E... E... E... E E Overcast ...do .... Cloudy . . WTSrW 1 Cahu SE 2 SE(?) 1 Calm SE. SE. ...1 ...1 NNW 5 NNW 2 NW 3 NNW 5 NNW 3 NNW 4 NNW 5 N.by W....5 N. by W....5 W 1 SSE 3 S 5 S 6 SE 5 SE 4 SE 2 NW 6 NNW 3 SW SSW SSW SE..., SE... NE.. NE . NNE 3 SE 2 NW 1 NW 1 NNW 5 NNW 3 SW 1 Calm NNW 3 SE SE SE SE Calm . . SE SE SE Calm .. E E. E. E. ...4 ...3 ...3 .. 1 .2 1 .1 .1 ESE 2 AV 2 W 3 Cloudy Few clouds . ...do Cloudy ...do Few clouds ...do .. do ...do .. do ...do Cloudy . . . . ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do ..do ...do ...do ...... ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do Overcast ...do ...do Cloudy .. do Overcast . . . Cloudy do .. do Overcast . . . Few clouds Cloudy Few ciouda Cloudy .... ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do ....do ...do ... do ...do Few clouds ...do Clear Few clouds ...do ...do ...do ...do Cloudy — do Few clouds Clear Ther. lowest last night, 38°. Fog; 5 p. m., fog-bow. Fog ; ther. lowest last night, 36°. Fog. Fog; ther. lowest last night, 35°. Fog. Ther. lowest last night, 32°. Ther. lowest last night, 34°. Ther. lowest last night, 33°. Broke other large thermometer. Ther. lowest last night, 37°. A little rain. Ther. lowest last night, 27°. Eain ; fog ; ther. lowest last night, 34°. Eain; fog. Eain. Ther. lowest last night, 33°. Fog. Fog; ther. lowest last night, 37°. Ther. lowest last night, 36°. Ther. lowest last night, 32°. 5. Snow. Ther. lowest last night, 33°. Ther. lowest last night, 20°. Ilalo round sun from 8 to 10. Ther. lowest last night, 25°. Ther. lowest last night, 25°. Ther. lowest last night, 28°. HalVs Meteorological Journal. September, 1865. 509 Locality. 26th Enc't, Fort Hope. Lat. 660 3VN. Lonsi. 86°56'W. Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do. Do. Do Do Do. Date. 1865. Sept. 8,6 3 7 3 7 10,6 3 7 11,7 12,6 a. m. m. p.m. p.m. a. m. m. p. m. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. p. m. p. m. a. m. m. 13, 6 a. m. m. p. m. p. m. a. m. a. m. p. nv a. m. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. p. m. a. m. m. p.m. p. m. a. m. 3 7 14,6 16,7 7 17,7 7 18,7 3 7 19,7 3 7 20,7 3 7 21,7 3 7 22,6 3 7 23,6 3 7 24,6 p. m. p. m. a. m. m. p.m. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. p. m. a. m. p. m. p. m. a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 25, 6 a. m. m. 3 p.m. 7 p. m. 26, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 27, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 28, 6 a. m. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 29, 6 a. m. m. 3 p.m. 7 p. m. Ther. 3. 22 Bar. In. 30.54 .45 .39 .34 29.90 .87 .85 .86 30.04 Wind. 29.90 .94 .97 .98 .92 .90 .88 30.06 .02 29.80 30.00 .02 .20 .30 .40 .46 .46 .48 .50 .48 .48 .50 .38 29. 82 30.00 .20 .28 .33 .56 .51 .30 .21 .04 E SE ESE.... ESE.... ESE... NW.... NW.... SW .... NW..-. SW .... WW .... N"W.... SSE .... SW sw s 1 2 .4 .6 .2 3 4 .4 .6 .5 .4 .1 .3 .3 .4 4 SE 3 SE 3 ESE 2 N 5 W 5 WSW 5 WNW 4 "W 3 NW 6 NW 5 NW 5 NW 5 N 2 N 4 N 5 NITW 2 NW 3 NW 5 NW 6 NW 6 NW 6 NW 7 NW 7 NW 6 NW 5 NW 5 NW 4 N. by W... 2 SE 3 SE 4 SE 5 E 1 NW 10 10 NW .. msrw N. by ^....8 NNW 5 N 3 N 3 ENE 1 SE 1 SE 3 SE 4 SE 4 29.98 j >r. bv"W....4 I NNW 7 I NW 9 30.30 I NW 10 .66 NNW 5 'NNW 4 t N]^r^y 4 .80 ; N. by"W....2 .78 1 NW 2 I NW 1 t SE 1 .60 E 1 Sky. Overcast . ...do.... Overcast — ..do ..do Few clouds Cloudy ... do Clear Overcast .. do ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do Cloudy Overcast ....do Cloudy Overcast. . . Cloudy Cloudy .. do^ Overcast .. Overcast. ...do .... Cloudy .... Few clouds ...do ...do Cloudy Overcast... Cloudy . . ... do ... ....do .... ...do .... ... do .... ...do .... Overcast. ... do ... ... do .... .. do .... Overcast. Cloudy . . ...do ...do.... Overcast. .. do .... ..do.... ..do .... Cloudy . . do ...do.... Overcast Remarks. Ther. lowest last night, 31°. Rain. Rain. Snow; ther. lowest last night, 32°. Mist. Rain. Ther. lowest last night, 28°. Rain. Rain. Ther. Ther. Ther. Ther. Snow. Snow. lowest last night, 25°. lowest last night, 24°. lowest last night, 26°. lowest last night, 23°. Ther. lowest last night, 18°. Snow. Ther. lowest last night, 20°. Snow. Snow. Snow. Ther. Snow. Snow. Snow. Ther. 1 lowest last night, 18°. . lowest last night, 20°. Ther. lowest last night, 20°. Rain and snow. Rain and snow. Rain and snow. Drizzling rain and snow; ther. lowest last night, 20°. Drizzling rain and snow. Ther. lowest last night, 17°. Ther. lowest last night, 22°. Snow. Snow. Snow. Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 26°. Drizzling rain. Drizzling rain. Drizzling rain. Snow. Ther. lowest last night, 9°. 510 RalVs Meteorological Journal. September — October, 1865. Locality. Date. 26th Enc't^ Foi-t Sept, Hope. Lat. 60° 31' N. Lone. 860 56'W. So Oct. Do. Do. Do.. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do, Do. Do Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. 1865. 30. 6 a. : 3 p.: 7 p.; 1,0 a.; 7 p.; 2, 7 a. : 7p.i 3, 7 a. 1 1 7p.] 4, 7 a. J I 7p.i 5, 7 a. ! ] 7p.] 6, 7 a. 1 1 7p.i 7, 7 a. ! 1 7p.i 8, 7 a. 1 1 7p.l 9, 7 a. 1 ] 7p.l 10, 7 a. ] 1 7p.i 11. 7 a. 1 7p.: 12, 7 a. : 7p.: 13, 7 a. 7,..: 14, 7 a. : 7p.i 15,7 a.: 7 p. 10, 7 a. 7 p. 17, 7 a. 7 p. 18, 7 a. 7 p. 19,7 a. 7 p. 20, 7 a. m. 7 p. m. 21, 7 a. m. I m.i 7 p. m. ' 22, 7 a. m. ni. 7 p. m. Ther. 3. Bar. In. 30.58 .64 " .72 .55 .72 .70 .70 .55 .47 .38 .25 .00 29.80 .90 .97 30.07 .00 29.98 .98 30.20 .20 .26 .22 .23 .26 .34 .36 .38 .45 .45 .46 .38 .32 .36 .30 .32 .34 .50 .53 .54 .56 .50 .37 29.90 .85 .82 30.05 .12 .15 .10 .07 .02 29.60 .57 .58 .75 .80 .85 .90 .90 .88 .80 .79 .88 30.12 .20 .24 Wind. N. by W....2 N 4 N. by "W....5 imW 5 NW NW NE S. by "W . S S S. by E . . s..: S. by W . SSE SE SE NW NW lOfW ... N W NW NW N"W NW -KW SSW SSW S. by E . . SSE ".'.'.'.; NNE.... NW UW Nirw" ... uw NW N"W N N N". by E . N N .- NW N S SE SSW 5 S. by W ... .4 SSW 5 NE 1 W 3 W 3 ITNW NW... NW... SE SE SE .... E ene'"" NNW 8 NNTV .... 10 NNW .... 10 NNW .... 10 NNW 10 NNW .... 10 NNW 10 NNW ... 10 NNW .... 10 Sky. Overcast Cloudy . . — do Overcaat. ...do .... ..do .... ...do .... ...do.... ...do .... ...do.... ...do ...do -..do Overcast Cloudy ...do. Overcast Cloudy Overcast Cloudy . . . . '"!.do ....... Overcast ...do ...do ...do Cloudy Overcast Cloudy Overcast ... do .. do ... do ... do ...do Cloudy .. do ...do ... do Few clouds Cloudy -.do Few clouds Overcast... ..do ...do ...do ...do .. do ...do ...do Clear Overcast... .. do -.do ...do Cloudy . . . Overcast... .. do Kemarks. Ther. lowest last night, 9°. Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 5°. Thor. lowest last night, 17°. Ther. lowest last night, 27°. Ther. lowest last night, 32°. Fog; rain. Karn. Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 30°. Ther. lowest last night, 26°. Ther. lowest last night, 23°. Ther. lowest last night, 14°. Fog; ther. lowest last night, 22°. Ther. lowest last night, 20°. Snow spitting at times. Ther. lowest last night, 19°. Snow. Ther. lowest last night, 3°. Fog. Ther. lowest last night, 5°. Aurora. Ther. lowest last night, 5°. Aurora. Ther. lowest last night, 29°. ...do ..do . . do . . .do ...do ...do ...do . . do . Ther. lowest last night, 20°. Snow j thor. lowest last night, 10°. Aurora. Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 4°. Snow. Snow. Ther. lowest last night, 26°. Snow and drift; thci-. lowest last night, 20°. Snow and drift. Snow and drift. Snow and drift; thi>r. lowest last night, 20°. Snow and drift. Snow and drift. Drift; ther. lowest last night, 20°, Drift. Drift. HaWs Meteorological Journal. October, 18G5. 511 Locality. Date. Ther. 3. Bar. o In. in. 3 30.40 m. 5 .44 m. 4 .48 m. 10 .56 m. 18 .58 m. 18 .72 m. 18 .80 m. 23 .82 m. 17 .85 m. 30 .67 m. 29 .55 m. 26 .47 m. 23 .30 m. 25 .28 m. 20 .24 Wind. Sky. Kemarks. 26th Enc't, Fort I Hope. Lat. 66° 31' N. Long. 86° 56' W. Do Do Do 1865. Oct. 23, 7 a. 7 p. 24,7 a. 7 p. 25, 7 a. 7 p. 26, 7 a. 7 p. 27, 7 a. 7 p. NNTV . NNW . NNW . lOTW . NNW . inrw . NW... KW... WNW. w SE N KNW . T^rsvf . NKW . Overcast . . .. do ...do ...do ...do .. do Clear .. do -.do Cloudy . . . . ...do ..do Few clouds ...do ...do Drift ; ther. lowest last night, 3°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowest last night, SP. Drift; perhaps snowing. Drift. Drift; ther. lowest last night, 18°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowest last night, 23°. Drift. Drift; discovered that ther. Xo. 3 had air in the bulb. 512 HalVs Meteorological Journal. 00 !> o M O H O O .- 7 ssj <4;?3 0-2 o-a ^^ ss 1 1 S 1 S 1 2 1 1 L 1 1 oO wc;^ ;^w S> 7 ( 7 1 7 ( "i Soo 1 ( irT ^-cn 1 ffl- 1 C5- 1 o- « ,_ ^-cj o-oj- ^-cT ^-cT S, ««" o" •-0 f.S," """o" "d" o'g- ..°" ^^ 1 1 ^1 °M li- ^ ^7 ^-cj" .-n" .-d" •" Is g,S ^2 d- 1 L 1 I \ I ^ ( 1 '^^ ^"^ ^~ i ' ==' ^-^ - .— >o -*'— ' 1 1 1 21°; 4 -18°; 17°; 4 22° ; 4 3, 25° , -1C°; night — 1C° i' - - " 2 g, a " m- '^ ^ « est last night, ast night: 3, 2°. ast night: 3, ast night: 3, - aat night; 3, ast night: 3, last night : ast night ; 4, - lowest last (5. last night: ast night: 3, last night: 3, west last nigh CO s "S 1 1 "="■ west west 1 west west west west 1 er's: ■g .u « - ■g g © g m 1 1 1 fe u ^ 1 & © o • O O O O Ji O .13 •- . .^'l cot^tn CO ro 73 00 •-.2 Ther's Ther's Aurora Ther's Hazy. Snow; 9,5°. " 2 '"'"'a o fe g 'C 'C 'C .a K> t- Mja t^jq .a ja xi ja ^ h u o .q 9 PCflH PQH <)H H H H HP Rfi<^ H 4i . 3 . ■^ -*^ a . a fe. O t-i • o • ■>> ■5>, 5S >.§ >- •»,S '.2 ■ rt >i rt o t-5 m ewe lear do loud o"oot-'Ho"'go"goooo'Hgo'aooP > © ... © NO .O ■ N ; OO :no no • 1 ■ OO -o ; .o OO .N .OOO O N ON coos if If oocin-!j iHCCi(NincocQ^ ■a .g ,. i : : '• }^i w :^ ^fefe t>t> 'l^ : ^ ^^ ^ ^ ^ : k? • ■ • '^^^^ ■*-*(MC. OOOOlOOlOlCSOOOOOOMfMMWCOCO-^-*-^ J3 ^§--- CM^-Or-.COCOt*l>t-l> t>l>C3CSOS « ■ ' *os * ' ' 'o O lA in in o C30OO t-1-^QO t>Q0M»r5'V r-«OeOCM(NOOCOiMiraoirfinco-^ciocooini> CO b-inocD (O-^^ ■;i7f a TT7 1 1 1 77777 7 1 1 1 1 (7777777 ( : 1 ( M kfi ta in lO ID lO lO m o Or-I-H I 1 1 1 i7i 17777777 1 i i i i 7777 777 7i (7(7 (777-^ in CO iOiO io »r in H o t^oo (doco lo-^w-^"* c^tocoe^aSoiD rA-ffic^^n N -^j"© t*ca ■ ooco'* ctt-eo i7 1 i7 1 77777 :7 1 1 1 1 (7777777 rH ( (7i7i -^ i777" \aia min iTi . v-j . S3 CO . M . NO0-* M • N .CO weo dincxjcoco CSIiH r-ieO assa asaasasaasaaassHSs^saaa aaeaeeaeia sssaa§ a p*« c-ci p,rt (ici Art P,ci p,c3 p,« fi a iia P t- t^ t* t- 1*- t^ t- t> t^ t^ t^ t~ t^ t- 1^ rt Soo* oi o' —T rn' CI yf T)"' irT O t- 00 Oi o* ■"* P "3) -*6 S o ;25 fl "^1 ^>^ £> IS SS 3="i^s o o o o o o o o o o o c 3 a p « p p p p p p p p p >-i HaWs Meteorological Journal. 513 CO log, o' - >o2, O' i-H Xq' o <~ « ^7ed-2 !;^ l»-c^." ^ "O '^'^ © " Is 1 fe ^ - . .'u !-§§!' Mtti o o -a H OJCCfH fHp^H in o 0-2 O o 3 (O'er Is: I "J Ti ? L^ ©•^ o s-37 2- I So S o"o teo _ n ^ ^^ « S *- ; " -So— .2 SiS- . o J EC ..s ^ HQ f^ ^ >. r^'. .as 5.2 5 .2 >.2 ® o :o : oo : O 50 CMWCOWfOON^Nt-CO ■''-"•^ t*05W«Ci5 iJ-iO CQ CO CO i-H T— I 1— « wjitn a; K cc C '.^f^ -S SSSSI ^ H; *> *^ "^ ^ ift !0 CC CD 00 CC « Ca ^- O Tf -w '^'d'Tr r:a;r-fo^ tJ-^mooo in o r-iirj o (M oo I ^^ I IM 7l '^ -H^,N«^ I I I I , -^ -^OCO t*(NC0-*CO» t^C0cd(NNN^u5idC0|>2 NW^ l> 00 ^ » 00 r^ M ^ » « ^ m u3 m lo N CO w fO = «coco«« «?5cQ<^w?.^i^^^ss ?5^S Sg§Sg§5^ '=*SS^i?2 I l_ in « I I a ss 3 aaaasa aaaaaaaaaaaa aaa eaaas asasss saa d ftca (ics ds C. c3 d D. a d d « o,q.j o -■ ^ ^ -: j ..: .; j -• -■ .• • • P.CS a=3 cp-ca fc&ci aad asid dd sendee. =.0. Ci r^ t* 8. Ex. 27 33 514 HaWs Meteorological Journal. S a o P I 'A B5 s > o I _l I I I I I I I M IL iM -ii ri -t ^ CO ,-H c-i » rH .-I -^ o o i-H ci i:^ I- ^ oc c>i o I III to ■> la W -^ O N ^ i-'i-tC-ir5P?rJC0CC!Mr-a ^J *i ^ -fci *i ** « s N ^^h2':t2:t:n3 <^J3cd t^ u U i-t '•-' ^ WhW fifiPPOQ a ■« OO S S f ' COO ; .'^ n3 . :d 3 o . c ■ O . D^ " t. © C O O'H ^ '■ 1%'^ = 1^1'-= '='=5 1 g M" ■ Ofs,C OP^ o P^O OO n 0SO<-tC0i-tC0CQC0t>r-!O'^i-li-H.-(r^N»-i.-fCr:»n04UtiCC<):0 ; M Cl W « 'M ^ Ttir^t-oooooso ??i Iz; ^ >q ?5 ;2; ;?; ;2i ^^i !2; !?; ^ ;?; 12; ^ ;^; ;z; ^5 a ?5 z « ;^ B ;?; ;? ;2; ^ ;2; ;? » ;5 S5 ^ !?; :z; 2; iz; ?; ^ ^ ^ ^ ;2; ;2; Wlnoffilu'5lOo®coao^oooT^c^^c^c^QO•HTt^olf5occ^^rHcc^lu^xr^^"*■rt'^-GC•^lQOcoc•lot^l2 0^Tl^ A c^wc^oqc^lftm'^in•^Moooscow■^^^■^«m»HNccooClt>^^iT^^r-co1-HM«c^I^oc6•^cct-•M^ "1 1 1 f M 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 1 n 1 1 1 1 1 I I I m in sgacassasaassaasasasaasaggaaagsasesassccsgcas s s,i.n (ic.:: diri c.c,s Q.-^ -W ■ ^ ■*.- O -4-i (rj^KB*te,tj{n tn.to tn to ^-"^ ^ B if * P* "^ ^g ::§ -2>> ^ - §:: :: g :f ^g- § °. z . ^ z feS E:g •■t.P & & *^& !* a ^ S£|fc a S SsP^-"^ !« •• [^ ^ " tj " * ' .^ *' " t^ " f~t i~t .••» ~™ +^ • • 00 ' * ■ 05 1 ; . : ! ! ; i I ; » ! I ! ! ! 1 ! ! ! ! I 00 ! ; tS . . -^ . . . . . : ; , .Ts . . . : . : T3 . . :^ • ■ . S . ..,.,.d.. ^.......,3.. ■ ■ ^1 ® k1 >. ■ |§'ag|§g-an:T=g'a ;i<0«>10«««NrH CJt-iHrHmiO 1 ■ ■ t>.'>*oot-'mT**ooocQO'^oocoO'- I ;::!::!;:■"-!;!:::::: 1 ::.';: 1 : ; o» ; I ; I i 1 ; ; ! 1 I ; CO 10 l> WOSl>Tj«iHOQ0O«00(MOC3HMC0Q0.Hi-'C0'«*»'^'*O'«tC0Q0C0rHOM NOO^M-N — ifSCOCOfdOO X) o^=^^„„^.^.^^c^^^„=^„^^oj„.^...c,„.^^^ T7TTTTTTTTTT X'^r-ooooh-i— tMc^i^itoco TT77TTTTTTT7 H -* L."^ CO :;;,;:::;;;:;:;::;:::::;;:::;: « ::.::::::::: p ssEsasaesEaasassasasssssassaaa aaaaaassaaa cs p.d.cj p^dsj d^d^ei p.(ics Pifid p^&cs p,de^ Pidci df^ci dp. :i p,p.;« P,pt^t-Ni-li-*(MrH ^^^.. t?;:?;^^^ :'a i-i»-i^r^^i-t^«mt-oooo ^ ^ !zi iz; ^ s ;z; ^ ;2i izi ;2i ;2; ;2; ^ !2; z ^ 2; a z ;z; ^ 12; ^ ;z; o u ;zi fe ;? !2; ^ ;? !z; ;2; ;z; 1^; Iz; ;2i w H S CO ^ 00 Cl CM O O iC Tl 00 O CC r O-^'T^i-IOO'^OO-^QOQOTlOOOQO'^Tp'^CO'MOOOrOC-Ji-SCOCJCit-rtOCCCL'rrJ'^MOi^OOO I I I I I I I I I I llTT I I I I M I I I I I I I I I M I I I I I I I I I _LI oooot>too^i'^t-o-^TjJCJi-Hi-Hi-i.-( i-lrH.-(i-Hi-(T-(.-l _l LI I I I M I I I I I M I I I I I I I I I 1 I I I I I M 1 M M M I c^ ^Cwi 6*Cl^^ dp^d eipt^s ce &.e^ ^.c^* &&ce P«P.<:^ Pi&^c3 P.^?^ dd:^ P'Pi CC>C5cCt-OCCt-CSr0t-a)e0t-Cl«t-ClM0SCCI>0i«t^0SMC~0SC0t>01C0t>ClfCt>C5CCt--CiC^I>05«t> CD- - - - - -- 00 Li O t^ 00 CI Oi-I C'l « 'S' trt !C t> X cj i3« tiQ ^ ^ ^ e P c ^ a ;^ .a c p a ^ a 518 HaWs Meteorological Journal o" 0' " ■*»■ 1 1 t^i GC 1 1 \ §; 1 "1 "1 « so o 1 'l \ 1 1 1 o' t5 o •^' :5 0* oc '1 1 o -^ 1 1 1 1 ~ - o a 1 1 1 f -w ■S ■~ «- '" L- ul ^-l L. o ■^^ '-" ■--:' u- .if tr. *^ c marks -+^ 1 1 a ^ Tf, '5 U 1 1 1 tt 1 Til 'a '5 Tl oTi X J P '5 ill PS tn -S - -a -s K ^- S 3; ^ t^ 11 ■J. :;: « ■"■ '3 it "5 "B ?- c: if z f— % c - t o; ^ g z w s w 2 ^ s g 1 1 -T. i ;3 g " "• X « ■' ■■ — »- ^ ja -^ J ^ [^<5 hp55o;5-55555^5 =;a i. COO i^ 1 :feu '3_C_0_0_0 S; O i^^ociMMfflrH^Mrt^nrrrTr^c^-"*-:- Mci(N:or-t— xt>t-oc3»«oir:'^r^?'i ■^>i^ ■ a; M ;c ooaoc^]'r3oi.';ococcc.. -J- -_ .«. --^ i~ -I- ^r V. < ^7- w X Qc r^ t2 o o t^ ic — lO o 1^ •"■ c re ^^ S O I £ ^ i-- --1 --H Ti CI c-i rj c^i i>i T^J rc rt ro c :Tj'-^iSvi;>qo-*»"t-to^^i.'5**d.'5MONOoo J I M I I IJJIJJJJJ.I M_.. _. LU JJJJIJ I.J.IiJ I IJJXL o>ooxh-cccs«occi-OOr-»c:«occir5t--osrer-o;?ct'.ff!rtr-csect~Cir?t^c:cei'-3Mt--cjrti- asa c: n i^ >^ ^r:^ «g, ;?

o- r. t •- o- is 1 ^ 7 .. 1 u 1 1 1 T T T 1 1 s ^%%\i^\tt%:iht ^ 5 ■= i 1 i 1 1 1 1 1 i i i 1 "x - "^ . ,i n 1 1 ,1 1 1 ,1 1 i il 1 -pis «sl 11 i 1 II i i i = ! 1 % So 1 .= =* •• s5 5 ^i^*" =3 ^ s =S ^ ■= g5§ *- .S=&1; £:i«u^ |||!S!=Sfe i SSSS^S .iES ^ii«.L| !SSS ti N H p; r:;Sri <;;i.r^fcic-i v xr.aa:;^ H p~ ~:;z::u.-ct,Sii,p^R aap ■ ; : • I ; » ■ ! ! ® : ' ! ■ . ! * ■ ! ! s^ ! 31 ; ! -3 ; : irs ■ ."o 1 : . : .■= 3 ■ • . . B ■ti . S 3 X : : ! : : ^ >. '^ 2 . e = . . • c • c • ;2 " c J- "3 e : t- c s"; o o : : '2c''c^oS'Srs = = -o = ." = o5= :"o-~c- ' ^-^gg i-^'=g-^i^'=-='=g--g--''= -^-g^-g 1 fe, -Oi; ; :« ; -o ■ ■ . • : • u .fn .o .c;;p^ . . .o ; |fe< ■ • • • Ph -cPi o „^„„ - ■ ■ ■ f-^N-*rJ«NMt* W WJ'JQC t^h-rt ^^ M in ffl t* t* t-OOaOQO occx ?5 r; CC N r^Nt-t-c- 1 1 ; . . . "* " ^ . . ; 1 .:;:;:;;;;:::.; ; . . . : 3 ^ fe-t>t» • -, - - -t». ; ^>^^>^^^^^ ^fe^^&^&^i:^^^ ■ ■ fe&^^^ SSS^ ■as "3 "3 2 S a:S^zzzzz;a;«zzz^z;^xz?;zzzzzz:z/ir:zzzzzz !SZ;z;fe5 SSeSSS5Sli2§iSS£§SegSegggSgSi??J§iig§S§S?lS5§ ^ CO ' ■ ' ci ad ' ' ■ t-: ac ' ■ '"' 1 CI N W (M CJ Ch o ; I ; ; t -\ oil!; ;:::::::::::::::;;•::::;;::!:;:;•:::::::: s S i • c: ca ooo Tr!S5X-<*•:'l»(^]T*■'*or30■*(OT^o■s>■ H I .r: TT'ni'Ti mI'1 7iiii7-T-777iT1TlTTiri 1 iii7-|-|"l 7l-*»^0-rfOM • i ''' - ; ;t 7TTiT'i"i "1 •■;;:::;:;! i M ;;; i : ::;::;; i: : = : ; = 55 = SSSSS5SSS2SSSSSaeS335SeSSBSSSeEH3£S=5SSg5 ^ P-^a iis dies Airs ».=.= =.=. :i t^ftsids Ac.-:i=.sc.ti.sd!i*c.£xs.=.s&=. 2 "SOi T^ti^Oi crjt*CirlM>C5r:it-Cir;t-or^r*cjr;t-C5rtt-3srtt^c;r:t--r:r;t-c::^t^c:cct^c:r;ir'Cir3l' 5 . i> ac a = - n ~: M- L- -i t-: Qc ov 1 « 1 « J3=°'K0 o ^--o-^^^e o c o o o c c e o tA =i --55= .wa p « a p fl « o s a = =^^tg"5 3 IJ-J O ^JhJ 520 HalVs Meteorological Journal. I I S^ 00 ■a 1 1 •a S 3 1 bp tl ■a •a to g^ ^ ^3 S O o ^ ■"! ^ • . .J Q^^ M Oi o o o il^^'s -/;■ x H S c ;:; :: s ::; a H u c CO oo « M'<#l>(Mr-tt-«D!OOtf-'CtaOOOOt^fCNMCON(M^ S^6 ;zi o ;?; c3 S CO izi ;2; ^ « !zi Iz; l^i Iz; !2; ^ :2; iz; ^ ^2; ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ HMC=:iizi'°;z;;zi!z;:z; 1 lOiraooo-imcocct^oNmocoMO'MQOtot-ocoi^oO'^o .■Mi-'.-iCXJt^WOrl'-^irSiCOl-OOQOW'MCSOCSOiMW^J't-OOCS £ 'JO ' * t^ o * ■ t^ ^ C^ CI --1 (M IT I I 11 1 T I I I I I M I I I I I I I I M T sasaasaaaasaaasasaassaaasaa a &!i.cj B. 7 p. 23, 9 a. 3 p. 7 p. 9 a. 24 3 p. Apr. Do Do I Do Do 3l8t Enct. Lat. 60° 40' N. Long. 87° 4'.7W. Do Do 32<1 Enct. Lat. 0(1° 47' N. Lons. 87° 10'.7 W. l)n Do 33(1 Eiict. Lat. 66° 50' K. Lonj;. 87° 30' W. Do 25, 9 ; 3 p. lu. 7 p. m. 26, 9 a. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 27, 9 a. m. 3 p. 111. 7 ]!. m. 28, 9 a. m. 3 ]). 111. 7 p. m. 29, 9 a. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 30, 9 a. m. 3 p. 111. 7 J), m. 31, 9 a, ui. 3 p. ui. 7 p. ni. 1, 9 a. m. 3 p m. 7 p. m. 2, 9 a. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. in. 3, 9 a. 111. 3 p. m. 7 !>. m. 4, 9 a. m. 3 ]). m. 7 p. 111. 5, 9 a. 111. 3 ]>. 111. 7 ]>. ni. 6, 9 a. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 7, 9 a. m. 3 p. m. 7 ]). ni. 8, 9 a. 111. 3 p. ni. 7 p. m. 9, 9 a. ni. 3 p. m. 7 II. 111. 10,9 a. 111. 3 ]). lu. 7 I), m. 11, 9 a. m. I 3 p. ni. 7 p. lu. ' 12,9 a. m. 3 p. ni. 7 ]). 111. 13, 9 a. m. 3 p. ni. 7 p. ui. ° In. — 6 30. 54 — 4 .50 — 4 ' .47 — 2 .36 — 2 .08 — 4 29. 97 — 2 .88 .80 4 .84 2 30. 02 10 I .12 4 1 .10 10 . 12 2 [ .22 —10 i !22 —12 .22 -4 .22 —10 .20 —12 .10 i .00 —10 ; 29.90 ; .84 10 ! ..'■)7 8 . 50 — 4 I .34 2 , .42 —10 . 60 —20 .70 —17 ' —20 ; —13 — 5 ' ^1:::::::: — 1 — 2 i —10 —10 , 10 13 10 ; , — 6 — 1 — 7 —10 I — 5 I —13 —IS = ^:::::::: 4 9 . ... 4 —12 '...'.'.'.'.. —12 —15 —18 22 —20 ........ —18 — 4 — 7 NNW 6 K N"W 5 NJJW 3 NXW 1 NNW 1 NNW 1 NNW 1 E 1 NjSTE 1 NJS'AV 1 Calm Calm . . NNW 4 NNW 8 NNAV NNW .-) NNW jS'XW 3 NJJ^W 2 SE 1 SE 1 SSE 1 SE 3 ESE 4 NNW 3 N. by W... 6 NN\V 7 NXW 5 NXW 8 NNW 8 NNW 8 NKAV 9 NN\Y 8 NNW 10 NNW ... 10 NNW 10 NW 1 NW 2 NNW 2 NNW 1 NNW 1 Calm E. 1 NW 6 NNW 4 NNW 6 KNW 7 NNW 7 NNW NNW 5 NNW 2 NNW 1 NNW 1 SE 2 SE SE SE NNW 2 NNW .•> NNW 5 NNW 4 NNW ......5 NNW ....7.4 NNW 5 NKW 4 NNW NNVV 8 NNW 9 NNW .... 10 ' Few clouds . Cloudy (Ivcrcii.^t Cloudy . . do j Ovt-rcast I . . do !....do I. ...do .. do do \ Cloudy ] OvL'icast ! do [ Eew clouds I . . do !....do do l Clear I Few clouds I Cloudy Overcast -. do ...do ...do Cloudy . . do Few clouds .. do ..do Drift ; ther. lowest last night, [—12°. Ther. lowest last night, —4°. Th°. Clear ' ...do Cloudy ' Drift; ther. lowest last uight, —27°. Drift. Drift. HaWfi Meteorological Journal. 528 April-May, 1866. liemarks. 3:id Enc"t. Lat. 66° 56' Lons. 87° 30' Do 34th EDC't. Lat. 67° 4' X. Lons. 87°41' AV. Do Do Do 35th Enc't. Lat. 67° 14' X. Lon;;. 87°3r W. Do 36th Enc't. Lat. 67° 24' X. LODR. 87° 41' W. Do Do 37th Enc't. Lat. 67° 37' X. Long. 88° 8' "VT. Do Do Do Do "38th Euc't. Lat. 67° 49' X. Long. 88° 25' W. 39th Enc't. Lat. (17° 53' X. Lons:. 88°25' '«'. »40th Enc't. Lat. 68° 00' X^. Long. 88° IQ* ^y. Do ilay Do Do Do 4l8t Enc't, same as 30th Enc't. Do Do ! 42d Enc't., same as 38th Enc't. i 1866. Apr. 14, 9 a. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 1.1, 9 a. m. 3 ]). m. 7 ]). m. 16,0 a. TO. 3 ji. m. 7 ]). ni. 17.9 a. m. 3 ]). lu. 7 p. m. 18, 9 a. m. 3 ]i. m. 7 i>. m. 19, 9 a. m. 3 ]). m. 7 p. m. •J(l, 9 a. m. 3 p. m. 21, 9 a. ni. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. T2. 9 II. ni. 3 ]). m. I p. ui. 23, 9 a. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m 24. 9 a. ni. 3 p. 111. 7 p. m. 25, 9 a. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 26, 9 a. ra. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 27, 9 a. ni. 3 p. m. 7 p. ui. •28, 9 a. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 29, 9 a. m. -3 p. m. 1 P m. 30, 9 a. m. *3 p m. ' P m. 1 1. 9 a. 1 m. ' 3p m. 7 p. m. 3. 9 a. m. 3p ni. "P 4. 9 a. m. 3 p. lU. ' ]>• m. ,5, 9 a. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 6, 9 a. m. 3 p. in. ' P- m. 7, 9 a. m. 3 p. m. 7 p. m. 1 In. 18 ESE. 3 OviTCast 8 5 - 8 2 - 4 - 7 3 - 4 - 6 11 4 4 7 4 14 16 4 - 3 - 4 -10 V 12 j 20 9 1 6 8 -12 10 4 -12 10 8 8 - 4 : -10 '• -U ! _ 2 -10 12 2 I - 8 I 10 12 8 I 32 i 30 1 30 24 1 20 ' 20 30 19 16 21 -14 14 20 14 ESE 2 ESE 2 XXW 4 X 6 X 7 X 2 XW 2 XW 5 XW 5 WXW 4 XW 6 XW 5 XAV .... 2 WXW 3 XW 3 XW 2 X\V 4 XNW 3 X'^W 2 X\V 2 X\V 1 Calm SE .. 2 SE 3 W 3 SW 4 SSW 3 SSW 3 XX'W 2 X 2 X 1 X 2 X 3 W 3 W 3 SE 4 SW 1 XW 2 XW 4 X'W 4 XW 6 x-n^ 8 . . do . .- Do 17, 9 a. m. 30 NW 4 Overcast Snow; ther. lowest last night, 23°. 3 p.m. 38 NW -.2 ... do 7 p. m. 24 NW ..2 ... do Do 18, 9 a. m. 34 N -.4 ... do Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 30°. Do 19, 9 a. m. 32 NNE . 2 Cloudy Ther. lowest last night, 30°. 47tli Enc't. 3 p. m. 38 NE ..4 Overcast Snow. Lat. 67° 00' N. 7 p.m. 34 NE ..4 .--.do Snow. Long. 87° 46' "W. *49tli, same as 31st Enc't. 22, 9 a. m. Ther. lowest last night, 22°. Lat. 06° 40' N. *3 p. m. 32 N -.5 Overcast Snow. Long. 87° 4'.7 W. 7 p.m. 24 N .5 ....do 23. 9 a. m. 24 NNW .... ..7 Cloudy Drift; ther.lowestlast night, 18°. 50th, same a.s 26th m. Enc't. 26, 9 a. m. 35 NW ..5 Few clouds . Ther. lowest last night, 22°. Lat. 60° 31' N. 3 p. m. 7 p. ni. 48 Calm Cloudy Overcast Long. 80° 56' W. 36 NW -.1 Do 27, 9 a. m. 33 NW 3 Eew clouds Ther. lowest last night, 30°. 51st Enc't. 3 p.m. 36 NW -.1 Cloudy Lat. 66° 30' N. 7 p. m. 30 NW .1 ...do Long. 80° 34'. 5 W. 28, 9 a. m. 28 NW ..7 Overcast Ther. lowest last night, 23°. 3 p.m. 32 NW -.7 Cloudy 7 p. m. 25 NW . 8 Overcast Do 29, 9 a. m. 3 p.m. 27 25 NW NW -.7 ..7 ...do ...do Ther. lowest last night, 20°. 7 p. m. 22 NW ..7 ....do Do 30, 9 a. m. 3 p.m. 28 NW 7 Cloudy . do Ther. lowest last night, 22°. 30 NW ..6 7 p. m. 26 NW ..5 Overcast Do 31,9 a. m. 28 N 6 Cloudy do Ther. lowest last night, 23°. 3 p. m. 30 N -.6 7]). m. 27 N .5 ...do Do June 1, 9 a. m. 3 p.m. 29 3U N N ..6 ..3 ... do ...do Ther. lowest last night, 20°. 7 p.m. NNE .... ..1 ...do Do . . . 3 9 a. ni SW 3 do 7 J), m. 34 sw . 4 Overcast Do 4, 9 a. m. 3 p. m. 31 36 SW sw .4 ..3 ... do Cloudy Ther. lowest last night, '28°. 7 p.m. 34 sw .5 Overcast Snow. Do 5, 9 a. m. 3 p. ni. "23 Ther. lowest last night, 22°. NW .9 Cloudy 7 p. ni. 20 NW .. . .8 .. do Do 6, 9 a. ni. 23 NW . ...do Ther. lowest last night, 18°. 3 p. m. 20 NW . 6 Overcast. . . 7 p. m. 25 NW . 4 Cloudy .... *52d Enc't. 7, 9 a. m, 27 NW .5 ....do Lat. 66° 27'.7 N. *3 p. m. NW . 2 ....do Loug.S6°2l'.7\V. 7 ]). m. NW .3 ... do HalVs Meteorological Journal. 52/> June — July — September, 1866. Locality. 52(1 Enc't. Lat. 66'5 27'.7N. Lon.86o21'.7"W. Do Do Do Do 'Starts on sur- vey of Ee- pnlse Bay. Place of 51st Enc't. 54tli Enc't, Ft. Hope. Do 55tli Enc't. jLat. 60° 25' X. iLone. 86° 47' W. 5TtU Enc't. Lat. 06=25' N. Long. 85° 28' W. 60th Enc't. Lat. 660 29' N. Long. 86° 12' W. Do Do Do Do Do Do 63d Enc't, near Et. Hope. Lat. 660 31' N.i Long^86o56'W.| Do Date. Ther. 5. Bar. Wind. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. 1866. June 8, 9 a. m. 3p. m. 7 p.m. 9, 9 a. m. 3 p.m. 7 p.m. 10, 9 a. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 11, 9 a. m. 3 p. m. 7 p.m. 13, 9 a.m. 3 p.m. 14, 9 a. m. *3 p. m. 15, 10 a. m. 54 p. m. 17, 7 p. m. 18, 5 p. m. July 5, 1 p. m. 18, m. 19, m. 20, 9 a. m. m. 22, 9 a. m. m. Hi p. m. 24, 11 a. m. 25, 9 a. m. m. 3 p.m. 26, 9 a. m. m. midnight. \ 27, 3 p. m. ' 7 p. m. I 28, 9 a. m. \ m. I 7p. m. [ Sept. 4, 7 a. m. j 7 p. m. [ 5, 7 u. m. ; 7 p. m. 6, 7 a. m ! m. I 9 p. m. 7, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 8, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 9, 7 a, ra. m. 7 p. m. 11, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. ; 12, 7 a. m. ' m. 7 p.m. 13, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 48 34 .^7 36 40 30 40 54 50 52 50 . 62 1. 50 I In. xxw .. ...3 irw .... ...4 NW .... . .2 WW .... ...1 U" ...3 N -- 3 NW .... ...1 NW .... ...1 SW 1 NW .... .. 1 NW .... .. 1 NW .... .. 1 S .. 2 S .. 1 NW .... .6 NW .... ..6 NW NW NW SE.., NW . . strong. W- very light. SW . . . light. NW Ughtair. NW lightair. NW. light air. NW, S.... S... S ... W.. W Ught. Calm light, .light, light, light, light. Calm S 1 S WNW 3 N NNW ... NNW ... NW NW NW SE SE SE S.... SSW. .1 NNW , ." SE.... E . .. .' ENE SE .. .; SE .i NE.... .( NE.... .■ NE ... Sky. Overcast . . . Cloudy .... — do ..do ...do do Few clouds ..do Cloudy .... Few clouds .. do .-do Kemarks. Cloudy . — do - . ...do . Few clouds ...do Cloudy . . . Overcast. Cloudy . Clear ...do --do Sno w ; ther. lowest la.st night, 25°. Snow. Snow. Ther. lowest la.st night, 24°. Ther. lowest last night, 18°. Ther. lowest last night, 33°. Ther lowest last night, 22°. Ther. lowest last night, 30°. Ther. lowest last night, 40* Hazy I Ther lowest last night, 50°. Overcast ..do Cloudy ..do do do Overcast. . . Few clouds Cloudy . . Overcast . Cloudy . . Overcast . . do ... Overcast. Ther. lowest last night, 29°. Snow. Ther. lowest last night, 29o. Ther. lowest last night, Z0°. Ther. lowest last night, 20°. Rain ; ther. lowest last nightt 36°. Kain. Eaiu. Ther. lowest last night, 24°. Snow. Snow. Snow; ther. lowest last night, 30°. Snow and rain. Snow and rain. Ther. lowest last night, 30°. Snow and rain. Snow and rain. 526 HalFs Meteorological Journal. OCTOBEl! — KOVEMBER — DECEMBER, 1866. Locality. Date. Ther. 5. ' Bar. Wind. Sky. Remarks. 69th Enc't. near Fort lIo])o. Lat. 60° 31' N. Long. 86° 56' W. Do Do '■ Do Do Do Do Do Do I Do Do Do Do Do 64th Enc't. Talloon. Lat. 60° 37' >r. Long. 86° 42' W. Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do CSdi Knct, Shijin' Har- bor iNhnuLs. Lat. 00° -.6' Jf. Long. 860 6' W. Oct 1866. 7, 7 a. ni. 7 p. m. 8, 7 a. lu. I m.j 7 p. m. 9, 7 a. m. ! 8 p. m. I 10, 7 a. m. I 7 p. m. 16, 7 a. m. m. I 7 p. m. 17, 7 a. m. ' m.l 7 p. m. j 18, 7 a. m. \ m. 7 p. m. 19, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 20, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 21, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 22, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 23, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 24, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. 111. 25, 7 a. m. ra. 7 p. m. 26, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 27, 7 a. m. In. I p.m. 28, 7 a. m. ( p. m. >'ov. 18, 7 a. m. • m. I 7 p. ra. 19, 7 a. m. m. 7 )). 111. 20, 7 a. lu. in. 7 p. m. 21, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. i 22, 7 a. m. m. I 7 p. ni. I 23, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 1 24, 7 a. m. I m. I 7 p. m. Dec. 1, 7 a. m. m.j 7 p. m. W... ssw s .... s .... s.... s .... SSE . SSE . SE... Clear . .. Overcast. ...do .... ...do .... ...do .... ...do ... . ..do .... 20 22 . 15 . 10 ,. 16 . 6 . 6 . 10 ,. 8 1 4i- 9 i 6 . 2 ■ l\: -j- ■\\: V: 5 . '. 6 |. 16 •. 5 2 ■ 3 ■ 3 1 ■ 4 17 24 10 4 12 8 14 14 10 - 2 - 4 - 4 2 - 5 - 10 - 17 - 18 - 24 NW 5 NNW 6 NNW 6 N 7 N K NW .... NW .... NW.... N. ...7 •■ 8 -.5 I .::!* ...3 ' .3 ...2 Cloudy - . ... do .... ..do .... ...do .... ...do .... .. do ... 22 . 16 !. . . I. 20 |. 28 . 24 |. 30 j. 10 . IS 9 . NW .. NW.. N 2 N 1 NNW 1 N 6 ' N 6 N 4 NW... 5 NNW 6 1 NXW 5 \ NNW NNW 5 NNW 5 i NW C I NW .• 6 i NW NW 7 NW 7 NW 7 NNW 3 NW 1 NW 1 SW 2 SW 2 NW 1 W 3 NW 1 NNW 2 NE 4 NE 6 N 6 NW 6 NW 6 NNW 6 ' NNW 6 NNW 5 NNW WNW 2 WNW 1 NNW 2 NW 1 NW 1 NW 1 NNW 2 NW 2 NW 3 ('aim NW 1 , NW 1 SE 3 SE .4 I SE 3 I Clondv .... ...do .... Overcast . . Cloudy ...do' Overcast Cloudy do ...do .. . Few clouds ....do ... do Cloudv ... do" do Few clouds . ... do Cloudy Few clouds .. do ...do ...do Cloar . ...do . .. Overcast ... ... do ...do Cloudv • Kew c'louds Cloudy . . . . Overcast . ..do . do Cloudy . .. do do . . Overcast. .. ..do . ... ...do Few clouds Cloudy . do Clear ...do Few clouds Cloudv . do ' ...do Clear .. do ....do Overcast ....do ....do Ther. lowest last night, 14°. Ther. lowest last night, 28°. Ther. lowest last night, 32°. Snow. Snow ; ther. lowest hist night, 32°. Snow. Snow. Ther. lowest last night, 16°. Snow and drift. Snow and drift. Snow and drift; tlier. lowest last S-aow and (bift. [night, 5°. Snow iintl drift. Tber. lowest last night, 0". Ther. lowest last night, 4°. Ther. lowest last night, 0°. Drift; ther. lowest last night, — 4°. Drift. Drift ; ther. lowest last night, — 0°. Drift. Drift. Drill ; ther. lowest last night, 0°. Drift. Dritt. Drift ; ther. lowest last night, 0°. Drift. Drilt. 1)1 ilf : ther. lowest last night, —2°. Drilt. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, — .">=. Snow; ther. lowest hist night, — 5°. Snow. Ther. lowest last night, 4". Snow. Ther. lowest last night, 14°. Snow and drilt. Snow iind i'ift. Drift I ther. lowestlast night, — 5°. Drift. Drift. 'Ther, lowest last night, —18'^. Tlier. lowest last night, —24°. Ther, lowest last night, —34°. HalVs Meteorological Journal. 527 Dkcember, 18GG — January, 1867. Locality. 65th F.iK't. Ships' Har- bor Islands. Lat. GCOL'C'N. Long. 80° 6'W. Do Date. Ther. 5. 1866. Dec. 2, 7£ Do. Do Do. Do Do. Do. Do. Do Do. Do. Do Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do . Do.. Do.. Do . Do.. Jan I p. m. 7 a. m. 22, p. m. I p. m. 23, 7 a. m. ( p. m. 24, 7 a. m. 7 p. m. 25, 7 a. 1 ( p. m. 26, 7 a. m. 7 p. m. I 27, 7 a. m. ; m. I 7 p. m. i 28, 7 a. m. m. I 7 p. m 29, 7 a. m m 7 p.m 30, 7 a. m. 7 p.m. 31.7 a. m. 7 p.m. 1867. 1, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 2, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 3, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 4, 7 a. m. ni. 7 p. m. 5, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 6, 7 a. m. ni. 7 p. m. 7, 7 a. m. ! m. ' 7 p. m. 8, 7 a. m. , in. 1 7 p. m. I 9, 7 a. ni. I m.' 7 p. m. 10, 7 a. m. I / p. m. 11, 7 a. m. ' m. 7 p. m. 12, 7 a. m. m. I 7 p. m. - 15 - 14 - 16 - 4 ■ 4 • 5 - 12 I ■ 13 ■ 10 • 13 . 12 . 15 . 22 . 22 . 24 20 . 24 24 32 ■ 28 ■ 28 15 10 11 15 15 20 26 23 28 28 24 20 15 14 12 20 23 25 Bar. In. Wind. ...t SE. ^tnt; .... 9 KXW . . . .. 2 XX w ... .. 3 XNW ... .. 4 xw .... . 3 xw .... *> wxw... o NW ... 1 xw . . . 1 XE ... . ...2 XE -. 1 NE 1 Sky. ^Remarks. Snow and drift. Cloudy i Ther. lowest last night, —24°. Overcast XXW 3 XW 2 X W .2 X'R' 2 X W 2 XW 2 X 2 XXW 1 XXW 1 X 2 X' 2 XW 3 XW 6 XW 7 XW . XW. XW. E E. E XE. ...3 ...2 ...2 ..2 XXE 2 XXE 3 NE 3 XXE 2 XXE 2 N^W XW XW XW NW X"W. Calm X ... XE.. XTS .. XE .. XXE XXE 2 X 1 XXW.... 1 X 1 X'XW 1 XXW 1 XXW 3 XW 2 XXW 7 XXW 8 XXW 8 XXW 8 SW 2 SW 3 SW .3 Few clouds ...do ..do Clear Few clouds ...do Clear Few clouds ...do ..do Ther. lowest last night. — 34<='. Ther. lowest la.it night. — 31<^. Ther. lowest last night, —32°. Cloudy .... Ther. lowest last night. — 15° do .-do Few clouds . j Ther. lowest last night, — 26°. Clear j Few clouds i Overcast . . 1 Ther. lowest last night, — 20°. . - do . . . ...do . . do Ther. lowest last night, — 12°. Cloudy . . . . , Few clouds i Overca.st .. 1 Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 11° ..do Drift. Overcast -. I Drift; ther. lowestlast night, — 16°, --do '• Drift. ...do I Drift. Cloudy . .. — do Few clouds ...do Cloudy .. .. Few clouds Cloudy - . . . -do Few clouds . .- do . do Clear Few clouds . ..do Clear .. do .. do ...do Overcast . . Cloudy . . . . Overcast . . Cloudy Few clouds ..do ...do ..do Cloudy ...do". ...do Clear Few clouds .. do Ther. lowest last night, — 16°. Ther. lowest last night, — 10°. Ther. lowest last night, — 15°. Ther. lowest last night. — 24°. Ther. lowest last night, — 30°. Ther. lowest last night. —32°. Fog; ther. lowest last night, — 28°. Ther. lowest last night, — 15°. Ther. lowest last night, —28°. Ther. lowest last night. —28°. Drift. Drift; ther. lowest last night. — 20°. DTift. DrUt. Ther. lowest last night, —20°. 528 HalVs Meteorological Journal. January — February, 1867. Locality. Date. Ther. 5 Bar. "Wind. Sky. Remarks. 1867. o In. 65th Enc't, Jan. 13, 7 a. m. — 25 SW .4 Few clouds . Ther. lowest last night, —.".1°. Ships' Har- m. — 24 WSW .... . 2 ...do bor Islands. 7 p. m. — 24 SSE .2 . ..do Lat. 6G0 2C'N. 14, 7 a. m. — 33 SW .1 Clear Ther. lowest last night, —35°. Loiig.86° 6'W. m. — 30 SW - 2 ....do 7 p. m. — 34 ST7 Few clouds Do 36 NW Clear . , ...do Ther. lowest last night, —.36°. m. — 38 NN W .... 7 p. ni. — 34 NNW .... ..2 Few clouds . Do 16, 7 a. m. m. — 31 NW 5 do Ther. lowest last night, —31°. — 30 NW . .5 ...do 7 p.m. — 27 NW .-4 ...do Do 17, 7 a. m. — 31 NW .5 ...do Ther. lowest last night, —31°. m. — 30 NW .5 ...do 7 p. m. — 27 NTV .4 ...do Do 18, 7 a. m. — 31 WNW.... . 1 Clear Ther. lowest last night, —31°. m. — 28 ENE . 2 .. do ■ 7 p. m. — 20 Calm Hazy. Do 19, 7 a. m. — 15 NNE . 1 Cloudy Ther. lowest last nighf, —15°. m. — 4 SE ..2 .- do 7 p. m. — 3 N .2 ... do Do 20, 7 a. m. — 3 NNE . 3 Overcast Ther. lowest last night, — 3°. m. — 3 N . 2 Cloudy .. .. 7 p. m. — 12 NTV .1 ....do Do 21,7 a. m. 6 NNE .-2 Overcast Ther. lowest last night, -12°. m. 8 NE 2 Cloudy ... 7 p. m. 4 NE .1 ....do Do 22, 7 a. m. 5 NE . 3 Overcast . . Ther. lowest last night, 3°. m. 8 ENE . 2 ...do 7 p. m. 4 NE ? Hazy. Ther. lowest last night, —15°. Do... 13, 7 a. m. — 14 NW . . o Few clouds m. — 12 NAV . 1 ...do 7 p. m. — 12 NNW .... .1 -...do Do 24, 7 a. m. — 12 NW 1 Cloudy do m. 7 p.m. Calm Calm Overcast .. Do 25, 7 a. m. NW 1 do Ther. lowest last night, — 3°. m. 2 NW . 2 do .. .. 7 p.m. Do 26, 7 a. m. — 20 NAV 6 Cloudy .... ... do Drift; ther. lowest lastniglit, —20°. m. — 25 NW 6 Drift. 7 p.m. — 30 NW . 4 ... do Do 27, 7 a. m. — 33 NW . .. 5 Few clouds Ther. lowest last night, — 34°. m. — 30 NNW .... - f) ...do 7 p. m. — 26 NNW.... . 3 Hazy. Do 28, 7 a. m. — 34 NW 6 Cloudy ...do Ther. 'owest last ni''ht 34° m. — 32 NNW .... ..5 7 p. m. — 37 NNW .... . 5 ...do Do 29, 7 a. m. m. — 39 NW o — 33 Calm Cloudy Fog. "^ ' 7 p. m. — 37 NNE 1 Fog; hazy. Do 30, 7 a. m. m. — 34 NNE \ Few clouds — 30 NE . ... .4 .. do Fog.' 7 p. m. — 34 NE .4 ...do Do 31,7 a. m. — 20 wsw <1 Cloudy . . do Fog; ther. lowest last night,— 34°. Fog. m. — 20 w . 3 7 p. m. — 26 w . 3 Few clouds Do Feb. 1, 7 a. m. 'iO N T Cloudy .... do m. — 24 NNE 2 7 p. m. — 28 NNE .... . .2 l''ow clouds Do — 28 NE ■) do m. — 23 NE . 1 Clear 7 p. m. — 28 NE . 2 ... do Do 3, 7 a. m. m. 12 s \ — 8 SSE . « ...do Snow. 7 p. m. — 5 SSE , ..fi ... do Snow. Do 4, 7 a. m. m. — 22 NNW 7 Cloudy do Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, —22°. Drift. — 27 NNW .... .6 7 p. m. — 33 NNW .... .2 Few clouds Aurora. Do — 39 NNW 1 Ther. lowest last night, —39°. m. — 29 SW ..1 .. do ' 7 p. m. — 39 Calm . . . do Hall's Meteorolofjical Journal. Febkuauy, 1867. 529 Locality. Date. Ther. 5. Bar. Wind. Sky. Komarks. 6oth Enc't, Ships' Har- bor Islands. Lat. 60°2C'X. Long. 80° C'W. 1«G7. Feb. 6, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. in. — 40 — 34 — 38 In. NNW 2 NNW 1 NNW 1 Clear ....do ...do Ther. lowest last night, — 40°. Eegiisier kept during HaWs journey to hjloolih by Frank Leonard (or Lailorf), a seaman. Locality. 65th 'Enc't, Ships' Har- bor Islands. Lat. eu°2G'N. Long. 80° C'W. Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Date. Ther. 5. 18C7. Feb. 9, i 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 10, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 23, 2fi, 27, p. lU. p.m. a. ni. p. ni. ]). ni. a. m. p. ni. a. ni. ]). m. a. m. p. m. a. m. p. m. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. ]). m. a. ui. m. p. m. a. m. p. m. a. m. p. m. a. m. ]). m. p. m. a. ni. p. ni. a. 111. p. m. a. m. Bar. Wind. In. SK .. SW . sw . NAV . NW . SNW NW . ~sw . NAV . XE . NE .. ENE. NW . NE .. NE .. E ... E ... SE... SE... NE .. NW . NW . NW . NAY.. NW.. NW.. NW . NW.. NW.. NNW NNW NNW NW .. NW . NW . NE .- NE .. NE .. NE .- SE . . . . SE . . . . SE . . . . SE . . . . SE . . . . SE . . . . I E .... E.bvlST NW . . NTV .- I NW .. I NW .. i NW . . I NW t NW I NW NW '■ NW 1 NW NW Light.. Light.. Light.. Light.. Light.. Light.. Liffht.. Light.. Light.. Liiht.. Light- - Light.. Light Light.. Light.. Light.. Liuht.. Strong Strong- Strong Strong. .Gale .. Gale .- Gale .. Eresh , I'rcsh . Eresh Strong Sti'opg. Strung. Gale -. G.ilc .. Gale .. Strong Ercsir. - Fresh- - Fre.sh.. Fresh. - Fresh - - LiEht . - Light.. Light.. Light-. Fresh -- Fresh . . Sti ong Fresh-. Fresh- - Light . . Light.. Light - - Light - . Ligiit . . Light . . Light . . Light . - Light . . Fresh.. Light . . Light . . Weather. Eemarks. Fine ... ...do . do .. Cloudy . Fine . . do . . . . do . . . . do . . ...do .. Cloudy . '-'. Olo'.'. Fine . . . ..do . ..do .. Cloudy . ....do . Stormy ...do'.. .. do . . . do . . ...do .. . . do . . ...do .. Fine . . . ...do., do.. Stormy . . do '. . .. do .. ...do .. . . .do . . .. do -. ...do .. ...do .. . - do . . Fine . . . ...do .. ... do -. Hazv . . . . . .do . . Thick . . do . . . . do . . . .. do .. Stormy I L'hor Thick ! . . . .do . . Fine Ther. . . . do . . . . . do . . . ...do .. . . do - . ..do .. ...do.. . . . .do . . . . . .do. ...do .. ...do.. ...do.. Ther. Ther. Tlier. Ther. Ther. Ther. Ther. Ther. Ther. Ther. Ther. Ther. Ther. lowest last night, — 40°. lowest last night, — 44°. lowest last night, — 42°. Ther. Tlier. Ther. lowest last night, - lowest last niglit, • lowest last night, • lowest last night, • lowest last night, • lowest last night, - lowest last night, - lowest last night, - lowest last night, - lowest last night, - lowest la.st night, - lowest last uiglit, - lowest last night, - lowest last night, - lowest last night, - -38°. -10°. -20°. -3G°. -37°. -34°. -22°. -20°. -30°. -28°. -14°. -22°. -30°. - 3(P. -38°. S. Ex. 27- -34 530 Hairs Meteorological Journal. March, 1867. Locality. 65th Enc't. Ships' Harbor Islands. Lat. 66°26'N. LoDg.860 6'W. Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Ds - Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Date. 1867. Mar. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12. 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24. a. m. m. p. m. a. ra. m. p. m. a. m. ni. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. ii. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p. ui. a,, m. m. p.m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p.m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p.m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. a. ni. m. p. m. a. m. m. p.m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. Ther. 5. Bar. In, "Wind. TV .. NE.. NE .. SE.... NE ... NE . . . NE .. N ... NNW NW .. NW .. NW .. NNE ENE.. NE... NW .. NAV .. NW .. NE .. NE... NE... NE... NE ... NE... NE... NE... NW.. NW .. NW .. NW.. NE... NE... NW.. NE ... NE... NE... E .... E E NE . . . NE... N.... NE .. NE .. NE .. S ... SW . NW . SW. . SW.. NW . NW . NW . NW . N.... N.... N.... NW . NW . NW . NE .. SW.. W ... NE .. NE ... E .... E ... SE... SW . . . s ... Calm NW .. Light . Light. Light. Liffht. .Light . Light - Fresh. Light . .Strong Fresh. Fresh. Fresh. Light . Light. Light . Light . Light . Light . Light . Light . Light . Strong Strong . Strong Light . , Light . . Light . Light - . Light - . Light . . Fresh.. Fresh. Fresh.. Gale... Gale . . . Gale . . . Fresh.. Strong. Strong . Fresh.. Fresh.. Strong . Strong. Strong. Strong. Light . . Light . . Light.. Light.. Fresh.. Light . . Light . . Light . . Light . . Light.. Light. . .Fresh . Light.. Light.. Light.. Light.. Light.. Light.. Fresh . Fresh . Fresh . Strong. Strong . Fresh . Light.. Light. Weather. Fine ... do ....do Cloudy . . do Thick ....do Cloudy Thick ...do ..do ...do Cloudy Fine .'. ... do ...do ..do ... do .. do ...do ...do Stormy .'.'..Ao .'.'.'.'.'. Thick Fine ...do .. do ...do ...do Thick Cloudy Thick Stormy do '. -.do Fine Thick Stormy Cloudy .... ...do Stormy ...Ao '.'.'.'.'.'. ...do Fine ...do Cloudy ...do ...do Fine ...do ...do ...do ...do , ...do ...do , ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do Cloudy Thick -.do ...do Stormy ...do Fine ...do ...do ...do Remarks. Ther. lowest last night, — 42°. . lowest last night, — 32°. ; ther. lowestlastnight, — 24°. lowest last night, — 33°. lowest last night, — 27°. lowest last night, — 38°. lowest last might, — 30°. lowest last night, — 36°. lowest last night, — 18°. lowest last night, — 34°. lowest last night, — 36°. lowest last night, — 23°. lowest last night, — 2°. lowest last night, — 12°. lowest last night, 3°. lowest last night, 3°. ; ther.lowestlastnight, — 5°. lowest last night, — 26°. lowest last night, — 19°. lowest last night, — 20°. lowest last night, — 24°. ther. lowestlastnight, — 12°, lowest last night, 8°. lowest Inst night, — 8°. Ther. Drift Ther. Drift, Ther. Ther. Ther. Ther. Ther. Ther. Ther. Ther. Ther. Drift, Ther, Ther. Ther. Snow Drift. Ther. Ther. Ther. Ther. Drift; Drift. Ther. Ther. HalVs Meteorological Journal. February — ^Maech — April, 1867. 531 Locality. Date. Ther. 5. Bar. "Wind. "Weather. Remarks. 65th Enc't. Ships' Harbor Islands. Lat. 660 26'N. Long.860 C'W. Do 1867 Mar. 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, Apr. 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p.ta. a. m. m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p.m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. ni. p. m. a. m. m. p.m. — 4 — 3 — 22 — 12 — 8 •— 8 — 6 — 6 — 4 3 2 2 6 ll 18 14 14 In. S'W... Light.. Calm I'ine ...do Ther. lowest last night, —22°. Ther. lowest last night, —28°. Ther. lowest last night, —9°. Drift ; ther. lowest last night, —6°. Ther. lowest last night, 2°. Ther. lowest last night, 16°. Drift. Snow; ther. lowest last night, 4°. Snow. Snow. Ther. lowest last night, 5°. Ther. lowest last night, —2°. Ther. lowest last night, — 18°. Ther. lowest last night, —24°. SE.... Light.. SE.... Light.. SE Light.. S Light.. NE ...Light.. NE ...Light.. SE... Fresh . SE . . . .Fresh . E ....Strong IfE ...Fresh E .... Light.. E Strong. SE . . . Fresh . SE . . . . Fresh . SE Strong. E Strong SE . Fresh . E Lieht-. 'KE ...Light.. NE ...Light.. N Light.. inv ..Strong. NW ..Galo .. KE ... Light.. NW ..Gale... NTV . Gale ...do ....do .. do Thick Fine ...do Thick .. do Stormy Thick Fine Stormy do Thick do Stoi-mv Thick' ...do ...do ...do .. do Stormy ...do'. Cloudy Stormy ... do Do Do Do Do Do 14 ! 10 14 20 8 8 5 1 4 — 9 '. Do Do Do Do . ... — 8 — 7 — 14 — 14 — 6 — 14 IfW .-Fresh . NW ..Fresh . N'W ..Light.. KW ..Licht.. ITW ..Light.. N"W ..Light.. Fine ..-.do ....do ...do ... do .. do Sail's observations on sledge journey to Ig-loo-lik. Locality. Date. Ther. 5. Bar. "Wind. Sky. Kemarks. 1867. In. Ist Igloo. Feb. 7,7 a.m. — 41 JS^^W .... ..1 Clear Ther. lowest last night, — 41°. Lat. 66°35'N. m. — 37 >ixNW .... ..1 Few clouds Long.860(?)"W. 7 p.m. — 45 Calm Clear Do 8, 7 a. m. -38 KKW .... ..i Cloudy Ther. lowest last night, —45°. m. -34 SE .3 Few clouds . 7 p.m. — 36 Calm do Do 9, 7 a. m. — 34 N"W .2 Clear Ther. lowest last night, —34°. m. — 36 NE . 2 ...do 7 p. m. — 42 NN-W .... .1 do 2d Igloo. 10, 7 a. m. — 42 Calm Few clouds Ther. lowest last nisht, —44°. m. — 36 KE . 2 Clear 7 p. m. — 37 NE ..2 .. do 3d Igloo. 11, 7 a. m. — 44 SW .1 .. do Ther. lowest last night, —44°. Boss Bay. m. — 38 UW .2 -. do 7 p. m. — 48 E ..1 ... do 4th Igloo. 12, 7 a. m. — 47 E . 1 Cloudy .... Fog : ther. lowest last night, — 50°. Near lieebar- m. — 30 E . 1 ...do Fog. bic Cr. 7 p. m. — 28 E .2 ...do- .. log. 5th Igloo. 13, 7 a. m. — 34 NW .2 Clear Ther. lowest last night, —34°. m. — 35 NW . 1 ...do 7 p.m. — 40 NAT . 1 -do 6th Igloo. 14, 7 a. m. — 40 KE ..1 Cloudy Fog ; ther. lowest last night, — 47°. m. — 30 NE ..2 ...do Fog. 7 p.m. - 27 SE . 3 .. do Fog. Do 15, 7 a. m. — 16 NE Overcast Sdo'w and d'lift * ther. lowest last night, —27°. m. - 15 NE ..8 Cloudy Snow and drift. 1 7 p.m. — 18 NNE . 7 -...do Snow and drift. 532 IlalVs Meteorological Journal. February — March, I8G7. Locality. Date. rher. 5. Bar. Wind. Sky. Kemarka. 1867. o In. 6th Igloo. Feb. 10, 7 a. lu. — 23 K ..9 Drift; ther. lowest last night,— 23°. m. — 20 N .10 Drift. 7 p.m. — 24 W ..5 Clear Tth Igloo. 17, 7 a. m. — 32 N .1 .--.do Ther. lowest last night, —32°. NearPinguar- m. — 32 NNW .... ..4 ... do ku Mt. 7 p. m. — 42 KNW .... . 2 Few clouds Do 18, 7 a. m. m. — 34 — 28 NW ?iW ..7 .6 Cloudy .. do Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,- 46°. Drift. 7 p. m. — 23 NW . 6 . . (10 Drilt. Do 19, 7 a. m. — 21 NE .8 ...do Drift ; ther. lowestlastnight,— 23°. m. — 12 HE ..7 ....do Drilt. 7 p.m. -23 KE . .5 .-. do Drift. 8th Igloo. 20, 7 a. m. — 14 NE . .'0 -. do Fog ; f her. lowest last night, — 23°. m. — 10 N .4 ....do Snow. 7 p. m. — 18 is^W .... .5 Overcast . . . Snow. 9th Igloo. 21,7 a.m. — 37 KNW.... 2 Few clouds Ther. lowest last night, —37°. Oosooarku. m. — 15 NW .... .1 Clear 7 p. m. — 32 NW .3 ....do 10th Igloo. 22, 7 a. m. — 34 NW... . . 1 Few clouds Ther. lowest last night, —34°. m. — 18 NW .3 ...do 7 p. m. — 3G isrw ..2 Clear 11th Igloo. 23, 7 a. m. — 30 NW . 1 Few clouds Ther. lowest last night, —30"^. N'ringnuktoo. m. — 28 NW .4 Cloudy 7 p.m. — 20 s . 4 . do 12th Igloo. 24, 7 a. m. — E ..5 Overcast . . . Ther. lowest last night, —20°. N'rOoglitlsle. m. — 3 E . 7 Cloudy Drift. 7 p.m. — 5 E ..8 ...do Drilt. 13th Igloo. 25, 7 a. m. 3 Calm .... .. ...do Snow. m. 10 NW . 1 .--.do 7 p.m. — 2 NW ..1 -. do 14th Icloo. N'rPinyitkalik 26, m. *27, 7 a. m. — 8 — 36 ...do Ther. lowest last night, —16°. Ther. lowest last night, —40°. KW .4 Few clouds . *15th liiloo. m. — 34 NW . 5 Cloudv Ig-loolik. Do 7 p. m. — 38 NW . 3 Few clouds 28, 7 a. m. — 34 IJJfW ... .6 Cloudy ... Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 38°. m. — 30 aw .7 .. do Drift. 7 p. m. — 33 NW . 3 Few clouds Do Mar. 1,7 a. m. m. — 40 — 30 KW NW .1 .1 -. do .. do Ther. lowest last night, —40=. 7 71. m. — 43 >iNW ... .2 - do Do 2,7 a. m. — 20 S ..3 Cloudy .... m. — 17 S ..4 --..do 7 ]). m. 3, 7 a. m. m. 03 s 3 do Do — 29 — 24 N NNW ... .. 3 . 5 .-..do ....do Ther. lowest last night, — 32°. Do 7 p. m. 4, 7 a. m. — 30 — 36 KW Few clouds Cloudy Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 36°. KW . . .7 m. — 33 NW . . . 5 ...do Drift. Do 7 ]). m. 5, 7 a. m. m. — 37 — 41 — 33 NW 3 Few clouds ...do Clear Ther. lowest last night, — 41°. MNW ... XNW ... ...3 .. 1 7 p. m. — 4.5 NNW ... *) Few clouds ICth Igloo. Near Igloolik. U, 7 a. m. - 45 N 2 ...do Ther. lowest last night, -48°. Ul. — 39 NNW ... ...3 ..do 7 ]). 111. — 42 NW .. 2 .-..do Do 7, 7 n. ni. — 38 C;;lm .... -. do Ther. lowest last night, — 46°. 111. — 31 NW ...2 ... do 7 ]!. 111. — 36 NW ...1 ...do Do 8, 7 a. Ul. — 36 NW ...1 Clear Ther. lowest last night, — 42°. — 28 E 3 Hazv. 7 p. m. — 20 E . 5 Hazv. Do 9, 7 a. m. m. — 15 — 4 E E ...6 ...4 Cloudy ...do Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,- 21°. 7 p. m. — 13 E 2 ..do 17th Igloo. 10, 7 a. m. — 20 K .. 1 F(^w clouds . Ther. lowest last night, -22°. Tern I.sl. m. KNW ... '- Cloudv .... 7 p. m. JJNW . . . ...1 Few clouds . ! 18th, saiiiir as 11, 7 n. m. Calm ..do llith Igloo. 7 p. III. — 30 NW Cloudy Do 12,7 a. m. — 15 E . . 7 Overcast . . . Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 31°. m. E ...8 Snow and drift. 7 p. m. 5 ESE ...8 Snow ;iu(l drift. naWs Meteorological Journal. March — April — May, 1867. 533 Locality. Date. I Ther. 5. tSth Ifrloo same as 10th. Do Do 1st Igloo of IC- turu.uearlg- loolik. Do 2d Igloo of re- tuiu. 3(1 Igloo of ic- tum, en New Lake. 4th Igloo of retum. 5th Igloo of j-i'tuni, west of Amitoke. 6th Igloo of return, same as9tli of out- wa'iljounicy, Oosooarku.' 7th Igloo of return. 8tli Igloo of return. 9th Igloo of re- turn, n'r Pin- ituarku lit. 10th Igloo of return. 11th Igloo of return, mar Lyon's Inlet. Shi])s' Ilaibor Islands. Lat. C()=2C'N. Loug.8G= G'W. Do 1st Igloo, Fort Hope, 2d Igloo. Chiistie Lake. Do :id Igloo. Miles Lake Do 6th Igloo. Near Cape ■Wcvnton. Do 1867. I Mar. 13, 7 a. ni. . ui. 7 p. m. 14, 7 p. m. I 1.'), 7 a. m. i m. 7 p. m. 10, 7 a. m. ' in. 7 p. m. 17, 7 a. ni. ni. 7 p. m. 18, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 10, 7 a. m. m. 7 ]). m. 20, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 21, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 22, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 23, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 24, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 2.5, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 26, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 27, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 28, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. Apr.2t,9.30a.m, m. 9.30 p.m. 25,9.30 a.m. m, 26,9.30 a.m. May 1, 7 a. m. 7 2,10 3, 7 a. p.m. a. m. 7 4,7 •\7 8,7 7 9,7 p. m. a. m. p. m. a. m. p. m. a. m. p. m. 4 10 1 16 IG 13 16 17 12 14 15 15 24? 18 18 20 22 23 22 Bar. In. "Wind. SE 9 SE 8 Calm NE 5 E 7 E 6 SE 5 SE 5 SE 5 Calm NW 1 Calm SW .1 NW 5 NW 6 NW 1 NW 2 NW 6 NW 4 jSW 3 NW 5 JfW 5 NW 1 SW 3 SW 2 NW 1 S 2 N 5 NE 5 NE 5 SW 6 SE 3 SE 2 SW 2 SW 2 W G W 1 SW 2 WSW 1 SSW 2 Calm W 1 SW 1 NE 5 NE 7 NE 9 NNE 4 NNE 3 NNE 7 E 3 NE 3 NE 2 Sky. Cloudy Overcast. . . ...do , ...do ...do Cloudy . ... Overcast Few clouds ...do Cloudy .... Oveicast . . Few clouds Clear do .. do ...do ...do ..do Few clouds Clear Few clouds .. do ...do ...do Cloudy .... . - do Overcast . . ...do Cloudy .... Overcast... -. do Cloudy .... Few clouds ...do .. do ...do .--.do Overcast . . Clear .. do Few clouds Overcast . . Cloudy . do .. Remarks. On journey to Cape SSE SSE SSE SSE SSE NW WNW WNW WNW WNW NW NW Weynion. Cloudy . . ...do... ...do .... Overcast. Cloudy . . Overcast. ...do .... SE ., SE.. SE . SSE. SSE. SSE. Cloudy .... Few clouds ...do Clear Few clouds Overcast. . . Cloudy Overcast. .. ..do Cloudy .... Overcast . . Snow and drift ; ther. lowest last Snow and drift. [night, 5°. Snow and drift. Snow and drift. Ther. lowest last niglit, lfi° Ther. lowest last night, — 7= Ther. lowest last night, — 10°. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, — IG'. Drift. Ther. lowest night, —20°. Ther. lowest night, —24". Snow. Snow. Snow; ther. lowestlastnight,— 4^. Snow. Snow ; ther. lowest last night , — 11°. Snow. Fog: ther. lowestlastnight, — 20°. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, —30°. Ther-. lowest last night, —2^°. Snow ; ther. lowestlastnight, — 26", Snow and drift. Snow and drift. Hazy; ther. lowestlastnight, — 12° Ther. lowest last night, — 12" . Hazy ; ther. lowest last night, — 10° Drift; ther. lowest last night, —5°. Drift. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, —10°. Drift. Drift. Snow. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, 12°. DrUt. Ther. lowest last, — 10°. Drift ; ther. lowest last night, 18°. Drift. Drift. Snow and drift ; ther. lowest last Snow and drift. [night. 22°. Snow and drift. 534 Hairs Meteorological Journal. May, 1867— April, 1868. Locality. 6th Igloo. Near Capo AVeynton. 1st leioo of re- turn. Enc't No. 120. Sbips' Harbor Islands. Lat. GG° 26' N. Loug.80o 6'W. Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do ... Do Do Do Do Do Do Do 7th Igloo. Lake Nappoo. 8th Igloo. ath Igloo, lltb I^loo, N. cndoiAmi- tokc. 12th Igloo. Date. 1867. May 10, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 11, 7 p. m. July 15, 16, 17, 18, 10, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, Aug. 1, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7 a. m. in. 7 p. in. 7 a. in. in. 7 p. in. 7 a. in. m. 7 p. m. 7 a. m. in. 7 p. m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. in. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7 a. m. Ther. 5. Bar. In. Wind. SSE. SSE. SSE. SW. SE.... E E E E SE ... SE.... SE.... E E 2 ESE 3 SE 2 "W 1 N.by'W....l N. by W... 3 NE 2 WSW 1 "WSW 1 W 1 SSW 1 W 1 NW 2 NW 1 NW 1 KNW 1 N\V 4 NW 2 NW 6 NW 5 NNW NW 5 NNW 5 NNW 6 NNW NNW 6 NNW 6 Calm Calm NW 2 NW 4 NW 3 Calm NW 3 NAV 4 NW 3 NW 1 SW 1 Calm NNW 5 NNW 6 NW 6 NW 1 Sky. Remarks. Overcast. . . ...do ...do Pew clouds Cloudy . . . . do ....do Overcast .. Cloudy do ... do ...do Overcast... ....do ...do ...do ...do ....do ...do Cloudy do ...do ...do ...do ...do Few clouds ...do Clear Cloudy . . . . Clear ...do Cloudy . . . Few clouds Cloudy .... do Few clouds ...do Cloudy .... do ...do ...do Clear Cloudy .... Overcast... ...do Cloudy . ...do .. ...do.. ...do.. .. do.. ...do .. ...do .. ...do .. ...do .. ...do .. Ther. lowest last night, 2^°. Ther. lowest last night, 38°. Fog. Ther. lowest last night, 38°. Ther. lowest last night, 41°. Kain ; ther. lowest last night, 40°. Kain. Kain. Ther. lowest last night, 41°. Ther. lowest last night, 41°. Ther. lowest last night, 40°. Ther. lowest last night, 43°. Ther. lowest last night, 42°. Ther. lowest last night., 44° Ther. lowest last night, 42° Ther. lowest last night, 40°, Rain. Ther. lowest last night, 37° Ther. lowest last night, 35° Eain. Ther. lowest last night, 32°, Ther. lowest last night, 34° On slcdge-jourtiey to Fury and Hccla Strait. 1868. Mar. 30, 7 i 7 31,7 Apr. 1,7 4,7 7 5,7 7 p. m. a. m. m. p. ra. a. m. a. m. m. p.m. a. m. p. m. NW 1 NW 7 NW 7 NW 1 NW 2 NW 1 NW 5 NW 1 NW 3 NW 2 Calm NNW 1 Few clouds ....do ....do ....do ....do ...do Cloudy .... Clear ....do ...do ...do ...do Drift. DrUt. Hall's Meteorological Journal. April — October., 1868. 535 Locality. 13th Igloo. Near N. Ooglit Island. 14th Igloo. Ooglit l.slands. Lat. 6S0 58'.9N. Long. 80° 40' W. 5th Igloo, Brevooit River. Lat. 69° 42' N. Long. 85° "W. 6th Igloo, Encampment Bay. ILat.690 47'.5:N. Long. 85° 15' W. Enc't No. ISS," Low-title Enc't. Lat. 66o29'.4Jf. Do Do Do Do Enc't No. 186, Talloon Enc't. Lat. 660 37'N. Long. 86° 42' W. Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Date. Ther. 5. 18C8. Apr. 6, m. 7. 7 a. m. 20, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 21, 9 a. m. m. Aug. 27, 7 a. m. 28, 29, 30, 7 p. m. , 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. , 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. , 7 a. m. 31, Oct. 3, 5, 6, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 23, 24, 25, 26, 7 p.m. 7 a. m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. Bar. "Wind. Sky. In. WNW 4 Calm . SW.. NN"W . NNW . N NW ... NW ... NW ... NW ... NNW . NNTV . NW ... NW... N"W ... NW ... Calm .. NNW . W NNW . NNW . NNW . E NB.... N NW ... NW ... NW... NNW . NNW . NW ... NNW . NNW . NNW . NNW . NjSTW . NW ... N NE .... NNW . NW ... NW ... NW ... E E NNW . NNW . NTSrW . NNW , NNTT . NNW . NNW . NNW. Clear . Cloudy . — do - . Few clouds ...do Cloudy .... .. do ...do ...do ...do Eew clouds Clear , Few clouds Clear Cloudy . . . . . . . do Cloudy ....do ....do ....do ....do ....do Few clouds Overcast . . ....do ... do Cloudy .... Overcast ....do Cloudy .... — do ...do , Few clouds Clear ....do Cloudy .... Overcast. .. Clear Overcast . . . ...do ...do ...do , ...do .. do Cloudy .... do ....do , Few clouds Cloud.y .... Few clouds Cloudy .... Clear Kemarks. Hazy. Hazy. Snow. Left thermometer on an island near the westeni entrance to Fury and Hccla Straits. Ther. lowest last night, 34°. Ther. lowes* last night, 32°. Ther. lowest last night, 30°. Ther. lowest last night, 31°. Ther. lowest last night, 36°. Fog ; ther. lowest last night, 4°. Fog. Drift ; ther. lowest last night, 0°. Drift. Drift. Ther. lowest la«t night, 7°. Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 13°. Snow. Snow. Ther. lowest last night, — 4*. Ther. lowest last night, —6°. Drift. Drift. Ther. lowest last riight, —6°. Aurora. Ther. lowest last night, — 10°. Aurora. Ther. lowest last night, — 3°. Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 0°. Snow. Snow. Drift J ther. lowest last night, 3°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowest last night, 0°. Drift. Drift ; ther. lowest last night, —4°. Drift. Aurora. *The numbers for Encampments beyond No. 65 are tlioae gi\*en in the table which closes these bbservations. 536 Hairs Meteorological Journal. October — November, 1868. Enc't No. 188. Lat. C60 31'N. Loii''.8G°7'.5\y. Euc't No. 189. Lat. m° 35' N. Lon^.SSoyO'W. Euo't No. 190. Lat. 6G0 47'N. Long. 85° 25' W. Enc t No. 191. Lat. 06° 58' N. Long.85o 19' "W. Enc't No. 192. Lat. 0G°58'.5N. Lone. 85° 23' W. Enc't No. 193. Lat. GO' 59' N. Louj;. 85° W. Do Enc't No. 194. Lat. 07° I'N. Lon}:.84°52'AV. Enc't No. 195. Lai. Gr.o5G'..'"iN. Loni;.84° 15' \V. Enc't No. lUG. Lat. C7° N. Long.84° 52' W. Locality. Date. Ther. 5. o Bar. Wind. Sky. Semarki^. Enc't No. 186. 18S8. In. Talloon Enc't. Oct. 27, 7 a. m. 3 NNW . . . .6 Few clouds Drift; tbcr. lowestlastniglit, —3°. Lat. 6G0 37'N. m. 3 NNW ... . 3 Cloudy i Lons.8UO 4'2' W. 7 p. m. 4 NNW . - . .1 ..do Enc't No. 187. 31, 7 a. in. — 7 NNW ... . 8 ...do ... Drift; ther. lowestlastniglit, —7°. Lake Enc't. m. — 5 NNW ... . . / Few clouds . Drift. Lat. 6G°33'.5N. 7 p. m. — 10 XNW .... ..7 ...do Drift. Long.8C0 34'W. Nov. 1, 7, a. m. — 15 NNW ... .-6 Cloudy Drift; ther.lowcstlastniglit, — 15°. m. — 11 NNW ... ..2 Few clouds . 7 p. m. — 13 NNW ... ..1 ....do Do 2, 7 a. m. — 10 NW .2 Clear TUer. lowest last night, — 13°. m. — U NW -.1 do 7 p. m. — 12 NNW .... -.1 Few clouds . Do 3, 7 a. m. — 10 NE .2 Overcast Fog; ther.lowestlastnight, — 12°. ni. — 7 N . 5 ...do Drift. 7 p.m. — 9 N . G — do Drilt. Do 4, 7 a. m. — n .. ... XNVv- ... . 9 Cloudv Drift; ther.lowestlastnight, — 17°. m. — 14 NNW . . . .10 Few clouds . Drift. 7 p. m. - 15 NNW . . . 11 ....do Drift. Do . 5 7 a m 20 C;iliii Clear Ther. lowest last night, —20°. m. — 17 NNW .... . 1 Few clouds 7 p. ni. — 25 NNW .... . 1 Clear Do 0, 7 a. m. — 21 Calm Few clouds Fog; ther. lowest last night, — 20°. m. -18 NNW .... ..i --- do Fog. 7 p.m. -24 NNW .... ..] Clear Do 7, 7 a. m. — 12 W .2 Overcast Fog; ther. lowest lastnight, — 22°. m. — 10 W . 1 ... do Fog. 7 p. m. — 13 W . 1 Few clouds . Do 8, 7 a. m. — 17 NNW .... . 3 Cloudv Ther. lowest last night, — 18°. m. — 12 Nxm'W .... ..G Few clouds ^ 7 p. m. — 18 NN\V .... ..5 ....do Do 9. 7 !i. m. — o S . 1 Cloudv ... Snow; ther.lowcstlastniglit, —12°. 111. — 10 s ..1 .. do'. Snow. 7 p. ni. — 15 NNW .... ..2 Clear Do 10, 7 a. m. — 17 NNW .... . 1 Cloudv Ther. lowest last night, — 17°. m. — IG NNVV^ .... 2 Few clouds - 7 p. m. — 24 NNAV .... . 1 Clear Oil jouruv.ij to LijDtiH Inlet to Xovembir 29. l],7;l. m. "iV Ul 12, 7 a. m. 111. Vp m. 13, 7 a. m. m. Vp m. 14, 7 a. m. 15, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. IG, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 17, 7 a. m. ni. 7 p. m. 18, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. lu. 19, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. ni. 20, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. ra. •22, 7 a. m. 7 p. ni. 23, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. — 27 — 24 — 25 — 22 — 18 — 22 — 14 — 12 — 14 — 12 — 10 2 4 4 12 15 5 14 12 4 14 20 24 20 18 20 — 6 8 8 5 — 6 NNW NNW NNW NNW N , N SW... I SW. ... SW... SW. ... SW . . . . S 3 S 5 S 7 SW 7 SW 8 SW 7 E 1 W 1 AV 1 NNW 1 NK 1 NE 2 E 1 SE 1 E 4 SE 5 SSW 7 S 5 NNW 2 NE 1 .>NE 2 N 2 NNW 4 ...do ... do . do Cloudv Few clouds ...do Overcast... Cloudy Clear Cloudy . .. ...do' Overcast . . . ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do Few clouds Cloudy Few clouds . Overcast ...do . . do Cloudy .... ..do' Overcast Cloudy Overcast . . ...do ...do Few clouds Ther. lowest last night, — 27°. Ther. lowest last night, —25°. Ther. lowest last night, — 28°. Ther. lowest last night, — 14°. Ther. lowest last niglit, — 19°. Drift. Drift. Drift. Drift. Hazy; snow. Ther. lowest last night, 4°. Fog. Fog. 3''og. Drift. Aurora. Ther. lowest last night, — 0°. Snow. Fog; ther. lowest last night, 8°. yok. Hall's Meteorological Journal. November— December, 1868. 537 Locality. Enc't No. 196. Lat. 67=' X. Long.840 52' \V. Do Enc't No. 197. Lat. 00° .WN. Loii!JC.85oiS)'W, Enc^t No. 198. Lat. 660 47'iW, Lonr. lowest last night, —24°. Drift; ther. lowcstlastni-'ht,— 22°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowest l.istnight, — 23°. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, —18°. Ther. lowest last night, — 5°. Fog. 538 Hairs Meteorological Journal. December, 1868 — Jaxuaey, 1869. Locality. Date. Ther. 5. Bar. Wind. Sky. Kemarks. Enc'tNo. 200. Lat. 66° 33'.5N. LonE.86°34'"W. 1868. Dec. 25, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 26, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 27, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 28, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 29, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 30, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 1869. Jan. 1, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 2, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 3, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 4, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 5, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 6, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 8, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 9, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 10, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 11, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 12, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 13, 7 a. m. 111. 7 p. 111. 14, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. in. 15, 2 a. m. HI. 7 p.m. 16, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 17, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 18, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. o — 4 — 4 — 3 — 3 — 2 — 23 — 28 — 24 — 22 — 22 — 22 — 21 — 18 — 22 — 28 — 22 — 18 — 4 — 10 — 12 — 11 — 12 — 14 — 20 — 17 — 17 — 16 — 10 — 18 — 15 — 16 — 18 — 22 — 25 — 30 — 30 — 20 — 20 — 28 — 28 — 32 — 34 — 35 — 36 — .34 — 34 — 32 — 33 — 30 — 28 — 27 — 23 — 21 — 28 — 20 — 25 — 14 — 12 — 15 — 8 — 12 — 14 — J7 — 14 — 17 — 16 — 20 — 22 — 26 — 20 — 22 In. SSE SB SSE SE Calm K ISTNW .... NNW.... NE N NW lorw.... NW N N NNW ..4 ..2 . 3 ..1 '.'.3 .2 ..7 .2 ..1 .1 .1 .2 ..2 ..7 -.6 Cloudy do ....do Overcast ...do ...do Cloudy do Clear Cloudy Few clouds . .-- do Overcast Cloudy Few clouds . Clear i Ther. lowest last night, — 4°. Ther. lowest l^st night, —4°. Snow. Snow. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 23°. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, — 25°. Ther. lowest last night, —22°. Drift. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 28°. Ther. lowest last night, —12°. Snow. Drift. Drift. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, —18°. Hazy. Drift; ther. lowestlaatnight,- 22°. Drift. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, —31°. Ther. lowest last night, —28°. Drift; ther. lowest last night,— 34°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 38°. Drift. Aurora. Ther. lowest last night, —33°. Ther. lowest last night, —28°. Ther. lowest last night, —28°. Ther. lowest last night, —27°. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 15°. Ther. lowest last night, —18°. Ther. lowest last night, -17°. Ther. lowest last night, —27°. Do Do Do Do Do ENE WJNW WNW.... NE NNE N N NW IWW .... N N N N ENE ENE N N N N N E N N. byE... N... N NNW .... NS"W .... NNW .... NNW .... NNW.... NW NW NW WNW.... Calm ..1 ..3 ..1 .1 .1 .3 ..6 ..3 ..4 ..4 ..7 ..6 ..6 ..2 ..2 ..1 ..8 ..7 ..7 ..3 . 2 .3 ..2 ..3 ..4 ..8 ..7 .8 ..7 ..6 .4 .3 ..3 .3 Overcast Clear ...do Overcast ...do ... do Cloudy do Overcast ...do ...do ...do ....do ...do Do Do Do Do Do Few clouds . ...do ....do Cloudy ...do ...do ...do ....do ....do ...do ....do Clear Cloudy ...do Clear Cloudy Few clouds . Clear Few clouds . ...do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Calm Calm Clear Few clouds . do Calm Do Calm Calm Cloudy .... ... do ...do Few clouds . Cloudy do ... do ...do ...do Clear Cloudy Few clouds . Cloudy Overcast Cloudy do SE SE NW NW NW NW ESE ESE ESE NNW .... NNW .... NNW .... NW N N ..1 . 2 .3 ..5 ..4 ,.1 .2 ..2 ..1 ..9 ..7 ..7 ..2 -.2 ..1 Enc't Kg. 201. Lat. 660 37'N. Long.86°42'W. Do Do EalVs Meteorological Journal. January — February, 1869. 539 Locality. Enc't No. 201. Lat. S60 37'N. Long. 86° 42' "W. Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Date. Jan. 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, Feb. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 11, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7 a. va. m. 7 p. ni. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7 a. m. ID. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. i, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. , 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. , 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. , 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. , 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. Ther. 5. — 37 — 36 — 36 — 35 — 32 32 — 30 — 29 — 32 — 34 — 34 — 35 — 17 — 10 — 7 — 10 — 9 — 9 — 16 — 16 — 15 — 16 — 16 — 16 — 10 — 10 — 9 — 18 — 17 — 20 — 20 — 18 — 21 — 8 — 6 — 6 — 4 — 4 — 10 — 20 — 28 — 20 — 24 — 17 — 18 1 — 4 — 14 — 13 — 16 — 30 — 30 — 34 — 38 — 36 — 35 — 35 — 33 — 35 — 20 — 10 — 24 — 28 — 30 — 34 — 37 — 28 — 26 — 38 — 30 — 35 Bar. In. Wind. NNW 7 NNW 7 NW 7 N"W 8 NW 7 NW 8 NW 9 NNW 8 NNW 8 NW 5 NW 8 N"W" 8 NW 10 NNW 10 N. by"W...ll NW 11 NW 11 NW 11 NW 11 NW 11 KW 11 NW 10 NW 9 NW 9 NW 8 NW 8 NW 8 NW 8 NW 7 NW 7 NNW 5 NNW 3 NITW 1 Calm Calm SE 1 SE 2 SE 3 NW 4 :mw 5 WW 3 NW 1 SE 2 SE 1 SE 2 SE 4 SE 3 NTV 2 NW 3 NW 5 NTV 6 N 1 KNW 1 NNW 1 NNW 3 NNW 9 NNW 4 NN"W 2 NNW 2 NNW 1 SE 2 SW 1 KNW 6 NW 9 JTW 8 NW 7 NNW 1 NNW 2 NNW 2 iraw 3 NNTV 3 NNW 4 Sky. Few clouds ... do ...do ....do ...do ...do ... do ...do .- do Cloudy — do Few clouds ...do ...do ...do Few clouds ...do Cloudy Few clouds ...do Clear Few clouds ...do Clear Cloudy ..do Few clouds Cloudy Overcast . . .. do .. do ...do Few clouds ...do ...do Clear Cloudy Few clouds ..do Overcast. . . ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do Clear ...do ...do Cloudy ...do. Clear ...do ...do Cloudy Overcast. .. ...do Clear Few clouds ...do Clear ...do Few clouds ...do .. do Cloudy Clear Bemarks. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 37°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 37°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 32°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 34°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 35°. Drift. Drift. Drift ; ther. lowestlastnight, — 10°. Drill. Drilt. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 16°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 16°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 16°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 19°. Drift. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, —20°. Ther. lowest last night, —21°. Snow; ther. lowestlastnight, — 6°. Ther. lowest last night, — 20°. Ther. lowest last night, —29°. Snow; ther. lowestlastnight, — 18°, Snow. Ther. lowest last night, — 14°. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, — 30°. Ther. lowest last night, —38°. Ther. lowest last night, — 35°. Snow; ther. lowestlastnight, — 37°. Snow. Drift. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 28°. Drift. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, — 37°. Ther. lowest last night, —38°. 540 HaUs . Meteorological Journal. February — :Maech, 1869. Locality. Date. Enc^tNo.201. Fob. Lat. 6G 037' N". LoBg.SGo 42' W. Do Do. Do. Do. Do. Do- Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Mai 1869. 12, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 13, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 14, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 15, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. ra. 16, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 17, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 18, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 19, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 20, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 21, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 22, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 23, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 24, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 2r>, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 20, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 27, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 28, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. •. 1, 7 a. m. 7 p. m. 2, 7 a. m. Ther. 5. 7 p. m. 3, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 4, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. .I, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 0, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 7, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. — 40 — 36 — 42 — 48 — 38 — 44 — 37 — 3j — 40 — 39 — 36 — 38 — 26 — 24 — 20 — 24 — 25 — 28 — 21 — 20 — 18 — 32 — 30 — 32 — 38 — 36 — 38 — 40 — 36 — 40 — 44 — 40 — 42 — 29 — 26 — 32 — 20 — 17 — 18 — 18 — 15 — 21 — 32 — 14 — 14 — 11 — 6 — 9 — 12 — 14 — 25 — 25 Bar. In. "Wind. XN"W" 1 KNW 3 KjSTW 1 Calm NW 1 2S^NW 1 NNW 6 NNW 7 NNW 7 NNAV 7 NNW 7 U.NW 5 NNW 8 NNW 9 NNW 10 NW e NW 5 NW 1 SE 2 SE 5 SE 5 NN"W 6 NNW 7 KNW 6 NNW 7 NNW 7 NNW 5 NNW .... 5 K >fW 6 NNW 5 NNW 7 NNW 6 NNW 7 NNW 6 NNW C NNW 2 SE 1 SE 3 SE 2 SE 1 NNW 2 iS'NW 2 NNW 1 SE '.....l SE 1 SE 4 SE 4 SE 4 NW 5 NW NNW 5 NNW 1 Calm NW 1 NE 1 E G E 4 NW 2 NW 6 NW 2 NW 6 E 5 NW 1 SE 3 SE 3 SE 4 Calm NNW 5 NNW ..... NNW 10 NNW 10 NNW 10 Sky. Clear ...do ...do ...do ...do ...do Few clouds Clear ...do .. do Few clouds .. do ..do ...do ...do Clear ...do Few clouds Overcast . . do ...do ...do . .. do ...do Few clouds ...do Clear Few clouds Clear ...do ...do ■■ dq .. do Overcast . . . Cloudv Few clouds Cloudy .... ..do' ...do Overcast Few clouds Cloudy . . . . !!;do '.'.'.'.'. ...do Overcast... ...do Few clouds ...do ...do Clear Few clouds ... do Cloudy Overcast . . . Few clouds ...do Clear Overcast. . . Cloudy Few clouds ...do .- do Overcast Cloudy ...do Semarks. Ther. lowest last night, — 41°. Ther. lowest last nisht, —48°. Drift; ther. lowest last night, — 44°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowest lastnight,— 40°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 36°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowest last night, —20°. Fog; ther. lowest lastnight,— 28°. Snow. Snow. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 32°. Drift. Drift. Drift ; ther. lowest last night,— 38°. Diift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowest last night, — 40°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowest last night, — 44°. Drift. Drift. Drift ; ther. lowest last night, — 42°. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, -32°. Ther. lowest last night, -18°. Ther. lowest last night, —32°. Snow ; ther. lowostlast niglit , — 14°, Snow. Ther. lowest last night, — 17°. Drift; aurora. Ther. lowest last night, — 28°. Fog. Fog. Drift. Drift; fog. Drift. Ther. lov.-est last night, — 19° Ther. lowest last night, — 18<^ Drift. I>rift; hazy. Drift ; thor. lowcstlast night,— 20°. Drift. Drift. HaWs Meteorological Journal. 541 March— April, 1869. Locality. Enc't No. 201. Lat. 06° 37' N. LonK.86° 42' W. Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do EDc't No. 202. N. Polo Lake. Enc't No. 203. Same. Enc't No. 204. Christie Lake. Enc't No. 206. Miles Lake. Date. 1869. Mar. 8,7£ Do- Enc't No. 207. Enc't No. 208. Near Cape Lady Pellv. Enc't No. 209. Enc't No. 210. Enc't No. 211. Do 7 9,7 10,7 7 11,7 7 12,7 7 13,7 7 14,7 p. ni. a. m. a. m. m. p. lU. p. ui. a. m. m. p.m. a. m. m. p. m. a. m. m. 15, 7 a. m. 7 10,7 7 17,7 7 18,7 7 19,7 7 20,7 p. m. a. m. p.m. p. m. a. m. p. m. a. m. p.m. a. m. Ther. 5. — 15 2 — 10 — 26 — 4 — 17 — 2G — C — 15 — 18 — 8 — 19 — 20 — 7 — 18 — 12 7 4 — 4 3 — 5 — 12 — 15 Bar. ' p. m. 1 Observations Wind. Sky. In. S 2 j Overcast... Calm do E 4 ...do E 3 Few clouds E 6 Clouds E 3 Fog N W 2 Few clouds NW 2 Clear N\Y 5 Cloudy... NNW 6 Few clouds NNW 2 .. do NNW 1 Cloudv ... NNW 3 Few clouds NNW 2 Clear NNW 2 Few clouds NNW 1 Clear Calm do NNW 3 Cloudv . .. N W 1 Few clouds NW 1 ...do N 3 Clear NNW 5 Few clouds NW 6 ... do NW 5 Clear NNW 5 .do NNW 4 Few clouds NNW 2 Clear C.nlm . Few clouds SE 2 Overcast... S 3 ... do S 4 ...do (yiilm Few clouds NW 3 Cloudy .... NNW 3 Overcast... NNW 7 ...do NNW 8 ....do NNW 7 Cloudy . .. on sledgc-journey to King IfiUiam Eemarks. Apr. *23, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 24, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 25, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 27, 7 a. m. Til. 7 p. m. 28, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 29, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 30, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 31,7 a. m. m. 7 J), m. 1, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. ra. 2, 7 a. m. in. 7 p. m. 3, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. — 24 — 10 — 25 — 22 — 16 — 20 — 15 — 5 — 14 — 22 1 — 12 — 18 — 4 — 10 — 31 — 14 — 30 — 30 — 15 — 21 — 22 — 12 — 24 — 20 — 14 — 29 — 18 — 12 — 28 — 29 — 15 — 23 NNW NNW a NNW 7 NNW NNW 6 NNAT NW NW NW sw.. sw.. sw.. sw.. sw.. sw.. Calm NNW 2 NNW 1 NW , NW , NNW NNW W w.... NW .. W W W ... W... w... w... Calm W 1 Few clouds (ylear Cloudy Overcast . . Cloudy .... do Overcast Few clouds ..do Clear .. do ...do . do .. do .. do .. do ...do ...do Cloudy Few clouds Clear .. do . . do ...do ...do ...do do Cloudy Clear ...do , ..do ...do .. do Ther. lowestlastnight, — 5°. Snow. Drift. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, — 15°. Ther. lowest last night, — 29°. Ther. lowest last night, — 27°. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight —26°. Drift. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, — 24°. Snow ; thei . lowestlastnight, — 21°. Snow. Snow. Ther. lowest last night, — 4°. [night,— 3°. Drift; snow; ther. lowest last Drift; snow. Drift. s Land. Drift ; ther. lowestlastnight, — 24°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 26°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,- 21°. Ther. lowest last night, — 24°. Ther. lowest last night, —27°. Ther. lowest last night, — 35°. Thor. lowest last night, — 33°. Ther. lowest last night, — 27°. Ther. h)WrMt last night, — 27". Ther. lowest last night, — 3SP. Ther. lowest last night, — 32°. * Hall discovers that he has lost two days; probably some time in the winter. 542 UaWs Meteorological Journal. April, 1869. Locality. Enc't Ko. 212. Enc't No. 213. Lat. 68° VS. Long:. 88° 48' W. Enc't No. 214. Lat. 68° 15' N. Loiifr.890 17' W. Enc't No. 215. Lai. 08° 22'.5 N. Long. 89° 42' W. Enc't No. 210. Lat. 08°2e'N. Lons.S9°53'W. Enc't No. 217. Lat. C8° 28' N. Long. 90° 7'W. Do Date. Ther. 5. Enc't No. 218. Lat. 68° 30'. 5 N. Lon.90"28'5W. Do Enc't No. 219. Lat. 68°29'N. LonK.90°44'"W. Enc't No. 220. Lat. 68° 26' N. Lon.91°07'.5W. Do Do. Enc't No. 221. Lat. 68°31'N. LonK.91o30'"W Do Do Do Do Enc't No. 222. L.at. 08°3C'N. LonK.92° 3'W. Do Enc't No. 223. Lat. 08° 24' N. Loup. 92° '22' W Enc't No. 224. Lat. 08° 30' N. Long. 02° 45' W Do Enc't No. 225. Lat. 08O30'N. Lons.JOo 20' W 1869. Apr. 4, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 5, 7 iv. m. m. 7 p. m. 6, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 7, 7 a. m. 7 p. va. 8, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 9, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 10, 7 a. va. m. 7 p.m. 11, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 12, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 13, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 14, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 15, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 16, 7 a. m. 7 p.m. 17, 7 a. m. 7 p. m. 18,7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 19, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 20, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 21, 7 a, m. m. 7 p. m. 22, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. in. 23, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 24, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 25, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 20, 7 a. m. 7 p. m, 27, 7 a. m — 24 5 15 20 10 17 27 19 10 6 — — 4 4 — 2 lU 14 2 20 6 8 9 — 15 — 14 — 8 — 18 — 22 — 11 — 20 — 17 — 10 — 18 — 18 — 12 — 10 Bar. 12 2 m. 6 7 p. m. — 5 In. — 9 I Wind. Sky. AVNW... SE .. . . ...2 .. 5 SE ...9 SE 5 SE.. SE.. SE.. SE.. SE 4 4 .1 , 1 1 \VNW 3 S"W 4 SW 6 W ....... 2 NW 2 NW 4 NW 1 W 3 N 1 Calm Calm . Calm SW 3 W C NW 7 W G W 7 W 1 N 2 N 3 N 4 NNE .4 NNE 3 NW 2 AV 8 W 9 W 9 W 9 W 9 W 9 W 4 W 2 E 4 W 3 NE 4 NE 5 NE NE 5 NE 5 NE 7 NE 7 NE 7 NE 5 E 2 NW ... AV E S AV AV AV W E E SAV E AV W W W W AV W Cloudy Overcast. ...do.... ...do .... ...do.... ...do .... ...do .... ...do.... ...do. ...do ...do . . do . ...do . . do ...do , Overcast . . . .. do ...do ...do -. do Few clouds ...do ...do Clear Few clouds ...do Clear Few clouds .-..do ...do Few clouds ...do Cloudy . . Overcast ...do .... ...do ... ...do ... ....do .... ...do .... .. do . .. .. do .... .. do .... Kemarks. Few clouds Clear ...do Cloudy .... Overcast . . . .. do do Cloudy . .. do -. do Overcast. . . .. -do ...do Cloudy Few clouds ...do Clear . Few clouds Clear Fog; thor. lowest lastnight, — 33°. Snow. Snow ; drift. Snow; ther. lowest last night, 0°. Snow. Snow. Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 0°. Snow. Tliick weather; ther. lowest last night, 2°. Snow. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, — 10°. Ther. lowest last night, — 2°. Snow. Fog ; ther. lowest last night, 0°. Snow. Snow ther. lowcstlastnight, — 1°. Drift. Drift. Drift; ther. lowcstlastnight, — 24°. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, —33°. Ther. lowest last night, —23°. Drift; ther. lowestla.st night,— 26°. Drift. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, — 20°. Haze. Thor. lowest last night, — K)°. Snow. Snow. [night, 4°. Drift: snow; ther. lowest last Drift. Drift. Drift ; ther. lowcstlastnight,— 6°. Drift. Drift. Fog. Fog ; haze. Ther. lowest last night, —20°. Drift. Drift. Drift. Drift. Ther. lowest last night, 8°. Snow. Ther. lowest last night, 3°. Ther. lowest last night, — 15°. Fog. HaWs Meteorological Journal. 543 April, 1869. Locality. Date. Ther. 5. Bar. In. Wind. Sky. Eemarks. Enc't No. 226. Lat. 68° 38' N. Lons. 93" 52' W. Do 1869. Apr. 28, 7 a. m. m. 7 p. m. 29, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 30, 7 a. m. m. 7 p.m. 2 10 7 26' ■W 2 Cloudy .... ....do Overcast... ...do ....do ....do Cloudy do ....do Snow. Snow. Snow. Drift. Drift. SE SE SE SE ...3 ...4 .. 7 . 7 Enc't No. 227. Lat. 68° 40' N. Long.94o06'.5"W". SE SE ...6 .. 4 17 23 15 SE SE ...5 ...5 Note explanatory of the break from April, 1867, to May, 1868. — By reference to page 320 (Chapter XI) it will be seen that HaU's joumalizinj; during the latter part of the year 1867 and the first part of 1868 was occasional only. No meteorological notes are found for that period among his papers. 544 HalVs Encampments. [1864-1866. m o l-H o Q O p w w o (^ 1-3 W P3 W Q <5 H w c» w OJ "^ Hi H) -^^^>- ^^ *H •«# OS o t^ o in ■*** m CO 00 -^ CO (M coo ^ CO T-i r-* CO CO in cvi M i-tTjiinw n in 3 t- 1- 00 00 00 eo iH »H !N »n orH lo coeo M ■ft 1 9 a cd o .a 0000000^- o -3 -a 'O -o "O J; § M : ; : ; : M^ « g o o o c o o « W ^ *r * o . o ^- o . o ^S to oo'C n O CJ 'A'A'A CO op-i « a oa 3 So l-H CO 0> CO O) t^ 03 Ift ^ b- OO as rH S « Pi p. ft p. p. CS CO o in CO t- A r d CO r « »13 'C ♦» ■♦* -tJ ^ j^ ^ *- +- *- *- ♦J ^-, O r- Cl CO t- CO O r-H T-H rH i-H 'Jdqnzna iB^ox •-( d CO'^iA«D t- 00 Ol O ^ W M -^ ^1 Pi .2 ftft J3£j=^Jl£j3«^^^J2J3ja -^S^ -grj 1866— 1867.] HalVs Encampments. 545 e o P. P. 11 o o a a IS o as COOS O c o o &s o o 12! 2; P^ 2° ^ c S f ! o o o o o o ly c3 o ^ fi O P. CI .— -«J -u ^^ ^ ^ ■3 pa S a: o t- "f ?; ^ (? p,- • ^ 5 P.O §1 la si p.'g — :5c'r^^b z- J - i^ fl Q t-fmOSt-H^OOOmt-XCSi-l^ffi'-'CQC^t^t-^t-'SaONOQOL'^CSr-'LTCqr^M^CDO «C^ t-Or-t ■Sid oa :. ;^. >.>..>.>.. II I I § = I >.>.>. |i-£^^ii^ •« l'^\ '^ I rri ^^\ ^-^ 1 (^l ^^ -rM .d^^^-g^^^^ -t-i +3 -M (O'D'O ^^ ,13 ^ ,a ^ ,£3 +3 ^ goo ■jaqmnn l^ox t- 1- (> t>t^ S. Ex. 27- -35 546 HaWs Encampments. [i86r. o S a "5 ■2.2" —ft*® d _ © COM Pi . U am o ago asLUiaaqto puB a'aAqpsniE; -qo aptijiSnoi asi.vijsq^o -mtjjqo 9pn^i^Bi •9prni3nox peAjasqo s^tiBH t3 s y •9pn:>i:jm p3AJ9Eqo ' s.nBH ■p9Un!UI91 xi'BH eiep'jo asqnm^ ft i-H CO CO fH W iH »H iH r-( iH C" Tjf iH lO CQ W rH iH iH « iH iH iH rH « iH iH O W « CM W iH « r-l iH i-( iH N t* UJ ^ a a 1- s = o e ^i-i a,?, ^ =: :c "• c: c = "2 o a ^ «• —Il-IM^ ( a^ © a >ia =s ca a <» p >. E; jS P. Li— aaoa •s.'a,aJo«jo 1 OOOO .y.OA^iATnUi 53 -as- a re « a oolz;o i2 i = ce d-a J3 o :30M •J9finnm pnox . rH 1-1 r-lt-l N W M MN04CM W ^ i-t rH »-< iH CI M M C^ W N N W CO CO ^ V*ifW*^4*'W'i/>^fai'^>i^ ^j ^ ^^ ^^ fc_j l_j ^_, ^_, L_j L_i kM ^^ bH ba bd ^^ ^^J M rt c8 a cB « a rt ce « p.rt 5 P P 5 9 £ a 3 3 3 = = aaaCSSE t, i, ^ - 3 3 -; OOOOOO^^^-*— ' — -—■—■ — ^-■—' -ECO -.^ 'r'r'r'r--r,-r' -' -' ttti ti ;i ti. =r. ti^ o o ^^ 4^ J^ 5 £ t^ ir^ cs i~ cc T^"' ti) ti ti ti ti.' ttj— H-, ^-."i-i W to Mh-.(— 'i-Ht-*(— i_--^j^(— 1 >j >) >. >; t>i >^. >) >i >: >ii >* C i^ V* l; aj „„ ?§2i§S *- DC "^ '^ *- <- to CO r-i CI ro ■**• 'ft CO 5 Th ic 1867-1868.] HalVs Encampments. bAl ■*i.X 0^ « X X X X X ^ J r •" ?- jC .c .c .o .o .o .c .c .c ^ '^ •; 5 i '~ .£ = MH ■-5a a ■asiAiiaqjo puB -qo apujiSao-j ■SSlAiJ3q()0 puL'a'd'iqpa ^^^^^^>»" 'a^Wa'a Oi c& C3 c: o ts V :c; o CD Izi^ ••"UnijiSnoj pdAjsEqo s.nBjj 3 o o !i5 •< ■jpiUpBI X)8AjoBqo s.lIBH •jjainijuij.i ijBjj BAup JO aaqnnix fc- t^ »H (£3 .5 - ® - i^ii'^ iSS p.X^ixZ.^Z^r' 1^0 :o;zc^5 = o-w;;-i;wSs;Izi ,NCn1N(M« 1-1 n www M !M 7^ CC CO ^ r-i 1— ^ c-i c-i c-i ?j S>) (M « S S ^ S ^ ^ S -?<<<<< •?<<<<<<<<<] c o ^ : - - j^' ;; - - r S 2 = '^ ■ : ;---*--: ^ h tH £ t^ 06 c Maqnnin p;iox ?) M ^ o ^c i- oc c; c; •-* M : 548 HalVs Encampments. [1868. o o as '■J u a a as xnxn 3 O 3 O ' ■^1 o o •5 1^1^ o o o o o o o o Q> Q> OP O o o o © cctc -qo apiniSuoi i^Wi^ CD ^ N ifs r- CO CO iH O T-( ■-( r-i CO CO CC X CO ^w "^^WW^ CO CO ir:' rH CO lO CQ « m CO ■* Tt* Tf< o CO OO 00 OO 00 00 CO ^^■^^■^^■^^^ •9S!AiJ9mO puB-a'd'^qpa •nre^qo 9ptn{!^Bi 'AYi'A !2i|Zi|Zi|Zl O) O 03 O) Iziiz; ■9pn!)ignoi .9 -*^ d o O I EC H !2i;2i ;z;|zi l^;!^; ;2i;25!2i!?; •9pn:H!>Bi p9AJ9Sqo ' s JXBH ■panretnaj nBH sA'Bp JO jaqmii^ HMNtHrHtA S5 ooocooooooooooo tc:: oooooooooooooooocooooooooo •HM I3 ■jequma itcjox S >> b>.-r->>^- b >>■?■?■ ?^S ^^^^r^^-:i-5i-:i-5i^>-~i-:H;H:^,i-j-:-1<]a:!/:tCO»^i!i^!^>'-; - o o ^^-;-b; - " a *a 43 4*43 'u "o "o "o fl Q a a WHHH ^£^^ O CD t-CO i irt W3 « lO in CD CD ^^>'^^^"^N^' ^:?;|2i|2i|zi|zi;z;;^ OOOOOOQOCOCOOOOO l2iS s^il^slz;^ iz;;?; •9pn:)iSno^ paA.idsqo sj|cjj a o o O •apn^i^Bi ^'A e^Bp JO joqionji Hi-Ht- t^t-t rHiHr-((NrHT-'»HiH(M^iHi-(iHi-HNi-H-<^i-H.rJ^MrHC cooii-ifOrtci'*LOr-oooiHoooi-HtnooMcom fiS -nOOOOr-iPLS t; ti ;J f-' ^^' ti >J >-. t^. >■- 1*. >~. >v >-. >^ t*a cj c: C3 e^ a c: n p^pj&,p.ciiP.pj, oooir-it— ■^ifi(oaoOi-«cctor-oc *"« 'o '« *i; V ;^* ^ '4, ':, ';, "u 'u "o "s. 51st Ene't .Tune 19 Aug. 10 Aug. 17 Aug. 26 3 ^ c 0- I i i 5;s 1- X !7 c APPENDIX III OiN THE GEOLOGY OF FROBISHER BAY AND FIELD BAY; A DESCRIP- TION OF THE GEOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS MADE BY C. F. HALL ON HIS FIRST VOYAGE, 1860-'62. These collections were presented to Amherst College, Mass., by J. J. Copp, Esq., of Grotou, Conu., a graduate of the college. They are discussed in the following pages by Prof. B. K. Emer- son, Professor of Geology in that Institution. They are appended to the Narrative as exhibiting additional proofs to those given in Chapters I and II of Hall's labors, which seeured the outfit for his Second Expedition. A^PPENDIX III ON THE GEOLOGY OF FROBISHER BAY AND FIELD BAY. DESCRIPTION OF THE COLLECTIONS MADE BY C. F. HALL DURING HIS FIRST EXPEDITION IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS, 1860-'62. By Prof. Ben.t. K. Emerson, of Amherst Colle(/e, Masmchvsetts. Oil the return of Mr. C. F. Hall to New London, Conn., from his First Ex- pedition to the Arctic Regions, he turned over a part of his collections, appar- ently the portion which he considered of the greatest geological interest, to the New York Lyceum of Natural History ; and it was the subject of brief reports to the Lyceum by Mr. R. P. Stevens upon the fossils and by Mr. Thomas Egleston upon the rocks and ores. Mr. Stevens gave a list, without description, of seven species of fossils, viz : No. of specimens. Maclurca magna (Les. ) 7 " " casts of lower surface ;{ Endoceras proteiforme ? ( Hall) 1 Orthoceras (badly worn) ;{ MvliolUes (new species) '~J Heliopora (new species) 1 Halysih's caknulaia (Fisch.) 1 liecejHaculUes (new species) 1 Mr. Stevens accompanied this list with notes of the stratigraphical position of the species in New York, and with the remark, " This collection was made at the head of Frobisher Bay, lat. 03° 44' N. and long. 68° 56' W. from Greenwich, 553 554 Professor Emerson on HalVs Geologieal Collections. at a point w bicli Mr. Hall says is a mountain of fossils similar to the limestone bluff at Cincinnati, with which he is familiar."* These specimens came manifestly from the ridge at the head of the bay, to which Hall gave the name Silliman's Fossil Mount, and which in his Narrative he compares to the Cincinnati bluff. Another portion of the collections was stored at New London, and, after the departure of Hall ui)on his second visit to the Arc tic Regions, was presented to the cabinet of Amherst College by Mr. J. J. Copp, of Gi'otoH; Conn., a graduate of the college. It was contained in three large boxes, weighing about two hundred pounds; they had not been opened since they were packed by Hall in Rescue Harbor, Field Bay. The collection presented, on its o]jening, a very unpromising appearance. Having been packed with greasy and sooty papers in the Ujloos of the natives or upou the deck of the whaler, and hav- ing remained untouched for so long a time, it was covered with mold, and many of the labels were illegible. Fortunately, the most interesting specimens had the locality marked in ink or pencil upon the surface of the rock itself, and in other cases, a studj' of Hall's Narrative enabled one to restore with a good degree of certainty the exact localities from which they came. The localities, however, quoted in the following paper are, in all cases, those given by Hall himself.t * Eeport on the geological and miueralogical specimens collected by Mr. C. F. Hall in Fro- bisher Bay. — Am. Jour. Sc, 2d series, vol. 35, 1863, pp. 293, 294; also "Hall's Arctic Researches," App. X, p. 594. tThe boxes contained specimens from other Arctic Regions besides Baffin's Laud, viz: (1) Several from Holsteinborg, Greenland, picked up by Hall when his ship visited that port, and (2) several from Melville and Beechy Islands, manifestly collected by McClintock's Expedition in 1853*, and a number from both shores of Smith's Sound. I think it probable that they were pre- sented to Captain Hall in Holsteinborg and packed by him with his other things in Rescue Har- bor. It is certain that tlie boxes were not opened after their arrival in this country until they lame into my ])ossession. The specimens were as follows: HOLSTEINBORG. l.t Gray translucent quartz. 2. White granular orthoclase. 3. Gabbro, a rock of medium grain, consisting of a green compact feldspar resembling saussurite, pearl-gray to greenish-gray diallage, brown biotite in abundance, quartz sparingly, and carbonates, as indicated by long-continued effervescence with acids. Tlu! brown mica is arranged in one ])lane, giving the rock a complete gneissoid structure, making the rock in fact a middh; form between gneiss and gabbro. Two narrow quartz veins traverse the rock, one in the plane of lamination and the other at right angles thereto. 4. Pale flesh-colored black mica gneiss. 5. Dark gray thin-bedded black mica gneiss. (>. Gray-bhick mica gneiss. 7. Reddish hornbleudic gneiss. 'Journal of tho Koyal Dublin Soc. 1857, p. 215. t Till' iiiiiiiImth refer to iiiimbers attached to tho specimens in the coUection of AmherHt College. Profpssor Emerson or/ Hairs Geolof/ical Collections 555 The common crystalline rocks of the Arctic rej^ions, granitic and gneissose, made up the bulk of the collection. With these were traps, red massive quartz- ites, sandstones, gray and cream-colored dolomites and limestones, and a few pieces of black cherty and dark fissile limestones, which furnished so manj' fossils new in these regions, and coining from a horizon which had not before been known to be represented so far north — that of the Utica slate — that it seemwl desirable 1o ])ublish their occurrence; and as the west side of Baffin's Bay is so little open to exploration, I have given a somewhat detailed account of all the s])ecimens which came into my hands. I was the more desirous to do this in order to add something to the already very considerable scientific results of this unique Expedition, as the single member thereof was accustomed to call it. By the careful exploration of Frobisher Bay Hall filled out a considerable gap in the geographical knowledge of the northern regions. His full investigations of the relics of Frobisher cleared up many points in the history of his brave prede- cessor, and recalled very ^•ividly the famous gold excitement of the times lUOM BARROW STRAITS. 8. Browu coal. Thiu laminated, ■with joints at right angles to the lauiiua;; color dull black, powder deep reddish-brown; burns with yellow flame, and the flame continues after it is removed from the gas-jet; leaves a white ash, retaining the shape and nearly the size of the piece employed. Nothing extracted by ether. Labeled, '• Specimen of coal from the center of Melville Island. Picked up 1853. — Bj:d- FORD PiM." This is manifestly a specimen I'escued from the collections abandoned by Captain McClin- tock's party in the memorable sledge journey across Melville Island.* 9. A piece of fossiliferous Upper Silurian limestone, containing the following forms in siich poor preservation that the determination is in some cases rather uncertain : Airypa phoca, Salter, sp. (young state) ; Loxonema Rossi, Houghton; Favosites gothlandica, Gold. ; Petrcea fti«a(?), Lous.; Cladojwra seriata, Hall; Halysites catenulata, L. Labeled, " Geological Specimens of the Parry Islands. Picked up on Beechy Island, east of the group, 18.5fi. — Bedford Pi:\i." FROM smith's sound. 10. A light gray grauulite, quartz, orthoclase, and garnet, passing abruptly into a black mica gneiss. Locality, Etah Bay, North Greenland. 11. Protogine. Deexi flesh-red orthoclase, a bright grass-green chloritic mineral (H = 1.5) and biotite altered torubellan, the latter irj small quantity. It seems probable that the chloritic mineral, which has exactly the properties of viridite, is aproductof the decomposition of biotite, the rubellau representing an intermediate stage. The rock was then originally a red biotite-grauite. one of the commonest rocks in the Arctic region. Locality, Etah Bay. 12. Hornblende Schist. For the most part greenish-black hornblende, with a little brouze- colored mica and quaiiz. Locality, Etah Bay. ' Remiiiisociicos of Ai-otic Ice-Travel, Jouraal Roy. Dublin See. 1857, pp. 235, 236. 556 Profeftsor Emerson on HaWs Geological Collection s. of Elizabeth. The coals and flaxes brought from England, the anvils and trenches, the blooms made in testing for gold, the prospecting-holes, and the masses of the " black stone like unto coal," which the London jewelers had declared to be gold-bearing, and the full traditions of the natives, all seem like a chapter out of our own Western history. " His long and intimate association with the luuuit makes his book a mine ot information in Ethnology, and the geological collections made by him give us the only information concerning the occurrence of the Lower Silurian in the whole of Arctic America north of Eui)ert's Land, with the single exception of the fossils collected by Captain McOlin1;ock and described by Houghton.*" These were : 1. Maclurea arctica, Houghton, near M. magna, in white Silurian dolomite from Depot Bay, in Be Hot's Straits, 72° N., 94° W. 2. The same with Chwtetes lycoperdon, H., associated with Upper Silurian fossils at Fury Point, 72° 50' N., 92° W. 3. M. arctica, Hough., Ormoceras crebriseptum, H., Huronia vertebralis, Stokes, Orthoceras Canadense, B., Receptaculetes neptuni^ Def., from the west coast of King William's Land. 4. Orthoceras moniliforme, H., Cape Riley, North Devon. These localities lie many hundred miles to the northwest of Frobisher Bay, and are characterized over wide areas by buff and cream-colored dolomites and limestones, are succeeded by the limestones of the Upper Silurian and Carbon- i:-5. A reddish-gray quartzite in contorted layers, the ends of the laminae coated with a cm-ious coraloidal deposit of brick-red limonite. Locality, Etah Bay. 14. Beautiful milky quartz, limpid, with pale purple opalescence. Locality, Etah Bay. Ui. Coarse garnetiferous gneiss. Fi'om Sontag's grave, at Port Foulke, North Greenland. 16. Many fragments of same opalescent quartz as above (5). From Sontag's grave. 17. Coarse granite ; gray translucent quartz ; flesh-colored feldspar in large crystalline masses, aud no mica. Locality, Esquimaux Point, North Greenland. 18. Flesh-colored garnetiferous gneiss, black mica. Esquimaux Point. 19. A very even-bedded friable quartz sandstone, splitting in laminte 17'"'" thick, and quite free from any impurity. The specimen is pure enough for the manufacture of glass, resembling closely 1 he St. Peter's sandstone at St. Paul. It is labeled, "From Capo Alexander, L. 78° 20' N., L. 73° W." These sandstones are mentioned by Sutherland as stretching from Wolstonholme Sound to (Jape Alexander, nearly always horizontal (Proc. Geo. Soc. 18.'):?, p. 298), and are compared by McClintock with (he sandstone from Byani Martin's Island from the base of the Carboniferous, (.lournal Hoy. Dublin Soc. 18.57, p. 199.) 20. Coar.se granitoid gneiss with large red garnets (12-14'"""). Locality, Cape Isabella, Griuuell Land. 21. Laminated garnetiferous gneiss banded with black mica. Cape Isabella, 22. Gray granular quartzite, the grains separated by films of kaolin. Cape Isabella. •Jonnial of the Royal Dublin Society, July, 1860, Vol. Ill, p. ."iS. Professor JEmerson on MalVs Geological Collections. bbl iferons, and farther north and west by Jurassic strata, while the outcrops in and around Frobisher Bay are in the immediate vicinity of and apparently skirting the crystalline rocks, are dark colored, largely argillaceous inshore deposits, con- taining a very different assemblage of fossils (though of about the same age) from the more western localities, viz: Calymene senaria, Con.; Triarthrus Beckii, Green ; Endoceras proteiforme, H., tiattened as in the Utica slate Diplograptvs dentatus, Br.; Climacographis quadrimucronatus, H. ; C. Mcornis, H.; Lingula curta, H. The localities around Frobisher Bay bear, therefore, somewhat the same relation to those of Prince William's Land and IJorth Devon which the typical localities of the Utica slate and the Hudson Eiver group in New York bear to the more western areas of the Mississippi Basin, In Frobisher Bay we have a group of fossils unmixed with those of earlier or later date, which mark the exact horizon of the Utica slate, and the rocks have a lithological facies recall- ing that of the typical localities of this epoch in Kew York. In the north- western area the whole Paleozoic series seems to be represented by a nearly unbroken succession of limestones, and the subdivisions merge into each other as in the central basin of the United States. So that Houghton says "the whole of North Somerset, Boothia Felix, King William's Land, and Prince of Wales Land is thus proved to be of Silurian age, although the evidence as to whether it is Upper or Lower Silurian is contradictory, as characteristic fossils of both epochs are found throughout the whole area."* We must, however, associate the locality at the extreme upper or western end of the bay already alluded to as Silliman's Fossil Mount with the calcarious facies of the Arctic Silurian as described by Houghton, since in the smaU list of seven species published by Stevens and quoted above, five are probably identical wij;h those described by Houghton, and the two others are corals, described as new species ; so that this locality extends the great Arctic limestone area greatly to the southeast, and makes it compar- able in size with the central basin of the United States. CRYSTALLINE EOCKS. 23. Geanite. A large and a small mass of very coarse red granite, containing deep flesh- red orthoclase in large crystalline masses, a much smaller amount of gray quartz and lepidomelane in black and greenish-black scaly corrugated plates. Locality, French Head, Field Bay. ' Loc. cit., p. 53. 558 Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 24. Gbanitk. lu several packages, without special labels, and coming i)robably from Field and Grinnell Bays, there were above a dozen specimens of the same coarse orthoclase-lepidomelane granite as 23, showing it to be very prevalent. Tn fact, many of the descrii>tions ot rocks given bj- Hall will apply only to granite, and, taken in connection with the specimens collected, its wide distribution is placed beyond doubt. Thus in his first excursion in Frank Clark Harbor, on the south side of Cor- nelius Grinuell Bay, after mentioning prominent veins of white quartz, Hall says : " The rocks about here were indeed very remarkable. One pile consisted entirely of mica, quartz, and feldspar, and the nearest approach I can give to its appearance is to let the imagination conceive that the feldspar was in a state like putty, and worked up into various uncouth figures, the spaces between each being filled up with mica, and quartz. Then would there be an appearance to what I observed on these rocks, only that ages and ages should be added to cut out deeply the mica and quartz [stands thus in the original], leaving the pure quartz veins unaffected." p. 112. At Point Tik-koon, in Countess of Warwick's Sound, he mentions " granite, the usual high old rocks." 2r). Granite. In a large package labeled simply "Azoic Eocks, Frobisher Bay," and con- taining many fragments of Silurian limestones and schistose rocks, there were also many fragments of quartz and feldspar, which manifestly came from a very coarse granite of a much lighter color than that last mentioned. 20. (Jkanitk. Coarse red feldspar granite exactly like 25. Locality, Kiien-gum-mi-ooke. 27. CrRAMTE. A typical fine-grained grauit(^ of deep red color. Gray, granular (juartz slightly mon; abundant than the deej) tlesh-red orthoclase. The latter in rounded crystalline grains. Dark green mica in minute scales and pyritein small quantity. Locality, Frobisher Bay. 28. Pegmatite. Two specimens showing deep flesh-red orthoclase scattered in irregular crystalline masses through gray quartz, the quartz greatly predominating. Frobisher Bay. Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 559 29. Granite. A pale reddish rock very fresh in the interior but much weathered on the exterior, containing a fresh transhicent plagioclase in large quantity, limpid slightly amethystine quartz, and sparingly black shining biotite. Locality, Frobisher Bay. 30. Granite. A coarse-grained granite, containing flesh-red orthoclase and gray plagio- clase in large masses, dark smoky quartz and black mica in small quantity. From a package labeled " From various places up Bay of Frobisher and near head of it." 31. Granite. A peculiar very coarse-grained leek-green rock, consisting principally of grayish to deep leek-green plagioclase, in large cleavable individuals, showing very fine triclinic striation, gi'ay translucent quartz, very little flesh-colored ortho- clase, and large contorted plates of black shiny lepidomelane. Frobisher Bay. 32. Granite. A deep-red rock, fine-grained, with abundant fresh plagioclase, orthoclase, black biotite, and large red garnets. Frobisher Bay. 33. Pyritiferous granite. A coarse-grained very quartzose granite, with much pyrite in large, quite distinct, crystals. Biotite and felds])ar occur very sparingly. The quartz is smoky to slightly amethystine. By the decomposition of the pyrite the rock has upon the surface and in the fissures a very rusty and glazed appearance; the feld- spar is changed entirely to whitish kaolin and the biotite to rubellan. Locality, French Head, Field Bay. 34. Granite. A black mica granite passing into quartzite. 35. Granite. A beautiful fine-grained granite of dark color, containing abundantly red brown biotite unusually fresh and shining, gray quartz, from which the feldspar is with diflBculty distinguished. 30. Granite. A very granular even-grained rock, containing orthoclase, quartz, and bio- tite in about equal quantity. Labeled, " Azoic Rocks, Frobisher Bay." 560 Professor Emerson on HaWs Geological Collections. 37 Gneiss. A jiiuy griiiiitoid biotitc gneiss. Noitli side of Frobisher Bay. 38. Gneiss. A liiige water-worn bowlder of flesli-colored biotite-gueiss of even medium grain, and quite uudecomposed. 39. Gneiss. A large fresh piece of typical gneiss, flesli-colored orthoclase, and more sparingly gray plagioclase, fresh black biotite, and limpid quartz. A single crystal of wine-yellow titanite. Frobisher Bay. 40. Gneiss. A much decomposed biotite-gneiss. French Head, Field Bay. 41. Magnetite gneiss. A large unweathered specimen of typical granitoid gneiss, agreeing exactly with the second quality of the rock quarried at Westerly, R. I. ; flesh-colored orthoclase, sparingly gray plagioclase, fresh black biotite, very sparingly muscovite and magnetite, and extremely minute crystals of pyrite. Frobisher Bay. 42. Magnetite gneiss. Same as 41, except that tlie foliation is expressed more by the ari-angement of tlie flesh-colored orthoclase in bands and less by the position of the biotite. I*'robislier Bay. 43. Magnetite gneiss. A rock of medium grain, consisting of rounded portions of orthoclase, quartz, and magnetite of about etiual size and quantity, without trace of mica or any accessory. The rock is granitoid in texture, yet distinctly foliated, owing to the .position of the ditt'erent feldspar crystals ; tinged with rust.. Locality, French Head, Field Bay. 44. Magnetite gneiss. A large freshly-broken specimen of gray gneiss. In a reddish-white mix- ture of runs through a piece of Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 663 black mica granite like No. 35. It has splintery fracture, and shows glistening- points of quartz upon fresh surfaces. 59. Petrosilex. A fresh leek-green felsite or petrosilex weathering white, agreeing closely with the green i^etrosilex from Pelham, Mass., which has passed under the name of " Shay's flint;" and this rock proves, like that from Pelham, to be a very fine-grained silicious variety of hornblendic gneiss. This conclusion is based on a study of thin sections of both varieties. 60. Banded hornblendic gneiss. Greenish-black granular hornblende, granular quartz, and some feldspar, mostly triclinic. The banded structure is caused by the interposition of more compact layers of quartz and feldspar; a little biotite present in brown decom- posed scales. 61. Banded hornblendic gneiss, A large mass similar to 60, the dark layers finer grained, and the quartz- feldspar layers thick and irregular. 62. Hornblendic gneiss. A thin laminated rock, containing abundantly white to greenish muscovite, dark brown hornblende, quartz, and feldspar ; the latter in one instance tricUnic. The verj^ bright pearly luster of the mica gives the rock a peculiar sheen upon the cleavage face which disajJiJears entirely in other directions. Labeled, " Azoic Eocks, Frobisher Bay." 63. HORNTSLENDIC GNEISS. Granitoid, with white and red feldspar, black granular hornblende, and green mica. Locality, French Head, Field Bay. 64. Foliated hornblendic gneiss. Thin folia of black to greenish-black hornblende, separate broader bands of a mixtui'e of milk-white orthoclase and quartz, forming a rock of ver\- attractive appearance. 65. Syenite. Granitoid and of medium grain. The rounded spots of white orthoclase stand out on a background of blackish-greeu hornblende. Labeled, " Azoic Eocks, Frobisher Bay." 60. Hornblende schist. Several pieces of schist, consisting of black granular hornblende and quartz, in one case containing a little triclinic feldspar and clialcopyrite. 564 Professor Emerson on Hall's Geological Collections Labeled, " Azoic Eocks, Frobisher Bay." 07. Hornblende schist. Several pieces resembling 60, but finer grained and more schistose. Labeled, " From various places up Bay of Frobisher and near head of it." 08. QUAKTZITE. Three large masses of a compact jaspery quartzite of deep red color and broad conchoidal fracture. They are only slightly banded by a slight concentra- tion of the iron in broad bands, and are remarkably homogeneous, and free from any other impurities except the red oxyde of iron. They were marked (1) in ink, and seem to me to have been gathered by HaU during his first long excursion along the north shore of Frobisher Bay, but of this I cannot be certain. 09. Quartzite. Several pieces of a rusty-red quartz sandstone, which seem to be only weathered pieces of the same kind as 08. 70. Quartzite. A water- worn pebble of a similar deep red quartzite, slightly micaceous, from French Head, Field Bay. The rocks described under the last three numbers might almost as well have been associated with the Devonian sandstone of Lupton Sound, described later (No. 108), or the sandstone from Cape Alexander (vide ante No. 19). It is, however, much more indurated, especially 2?o. 08, and has a much older look. MINERALS AND ORES. 71. Quartz. Four large pieces of translucent vein quartz. From French Head, Field Bay. 72. Quartz. White translucent vein quartz. Labeled, " From various plaxies up Bay of Frobisher and near head of it." 73. (Quartz. A fine piece of rose quartz and another of smoky (juartz. I'-rom Frobisher Bay. 74. Apatite. Rounded grains of green apatite in white orthoclase. Kuen-gum-mi-ooke. Frobisher Bay. 75. Garnet. A cleavage piecic of a large deep red crystal of siJbandite. French Hciul, Field Bay. Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 565 7G. Graphite. Several large pieces of perfectly pure soft graphite; one also still inclosed in quartz. In a bundle marked " (a) Azoic Kocks," by Hall, with fragments of Silurian Umestones. 77. BlOTITE. A large crystal 75 mm. long, 50 mm. wide, and 40 mm thick, with irregular sides. Adhering to one side is a portion of clear orthoclase, variety sunstone. On another side another portion of the same feldspar contains many small wine-yel- low Zircons. The crystal is also penetrated by plates 5-10 mm. broad, of a leek- green mineral, brittle, with bronze hister and eminent cleavage. Under the microscope it shows two cleavages at right angles and a third, prismatic, between these, making an angle of 120° 45', and contains abundant iuclosures arranged l)aralled to the rectangular cleavages. These i^roperties make it quite certain that the mineral is diallage. Frobisher Bay. iron ores. 78. Magnetite. Several pieces of magnetite in quartz ; one part of a large crystal with a piece of iron slag and two pieces of limpid quartz. The label reads, "Much like to a sea-coal in color. From Little Bay, Ek-ke-lu-zhun, on cape or point where I found coal of Frobisher Expedition of 1578, Tues., Sept. 24, '61. Hall." The quotation below, from page 432 of Hall's Narrative, exjilains the above : "Ek-ke-lu-zhun, Victoria Bay. Embedded in the rocks I found some heavy black substances, larger and more numerous than any I had before seen. These I concluded might be the ' stone like to sea-coal ' described by Frobisher in the account of his voyages." 79. Magnetite. A larger piece from the same locality — part of a large crystal in limpid quartz. Label, " Like to sea-coal in color." Ek-ker-lu-zhun. This label is written on the 550th page of Little Dorrit. 80. Magnetite. Large piece of pure crystalline magnetite. Kuen-gum-mi-ooke. 81. Magnetite. Three pieces like 80. French Head, Field Bay. 82. Magnetite. Three large pieces marked (a). 566 Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 83. Magnetite. A large mass, weighing several povinds, part of a large imperfect crystal in quartz. The ore and quartz gangue like that from Ek-ker-lu-zhun. This and the last may be from one of the localities mentioned by Hall in the Narrative as — , page 328 : " This p. m. I visited Cooper's Island, and with chisel and hammer dug out some of the black ore, such as was discovered by Frobisher's Expedition in 1578, with which many of his ships were laden. This ore attracts and repels the magnetic needle about like iron. It is very heavy." The importance of iron ore in itself and its connection with Frobisher's Expedition made Hall care- ful to collect it everywhere. It is manifestly very abundant both in the gneisses of the region and in separate beds. 84. LiMONITE. Several fragments of limonite, cementing quartz and mica, and arising apparently from the decomposition of granitic rocks, and representing a deposit of no great extent. 84J. Pyrite. A number of fragments in quartz. Locality, Frobisher Bay. 85. Pyrite. A large mass of very tough bluish-black quartz, full of pyrite. 86. Pyrite. Three well-worn pieces of pyrite, used by the natives for striking tire. With these was another i)iece of magnetite, labeled " Obtained from the natives." Hall also mentions iron pyrites at Gold Cove, Frobisher Bay (p. 230). copper ores. 87. BOllNITE. Several pieces of pure bornite, of flue color, and a number of fragments of quartz with bornite disseminated through the mass. French Head, Field Bay. 88. Bornite. A curious pseudo-conglomerate or vein-stone breccia of quartz masses, about the size of peas, cemented by a paste of bornite so abundant as to separate each grain of (piartz widely from every otlier. French Head, Field Bay. 89. Chalcopyrite. Several pieces of a granular aggregate of quartz and black hornblende, in Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 5Q1 which chalcopyrite occurs dissemmated. The rock is tinged green with malachite from its decomposition. French Head, Field Bay. 90. CHAiCOPYBITE. Several pieces exactly the same as 88. Labeled, " Stones from Kuen-gum-mi-ooke." 91. Chalcopyrite. Galena, siderite, pyrite. A weathered piece, containing amljer-colored side- rite, with the other minerals mentioned above. French Head, Field Bay. 92. Steatite. A greenish-white compact talc, pale slaty-blue externally, with much hair- brown phlogoi^ite. Labeled, "At the coal found up Little Bay ten miles from Ni-un-ti-lik." 93. CORUINTDIJIM. A mass larger than a hen's egg of matted crystalline plates of a light pis- tachio green margarite, externally weathered to pale straw color. This incloses crystalline portions of a deep clear cobalt-blue sapphire, making about one-third the mass. The sapphire is very brittle, easily cleavable, and shows imperfect •crystalline forms where it projects into cavities in the margarite. It is in places separated from the margarite by a thin layer of white calcite. The margarite melts under the blowpipe to a white botryoidal enamel. CALCAEEOUS EOCKS AND ASSOCIATED MINEEALS. 94. Gbajstular limestone. Thin i)ieces of a fine even-grained statuary marble, pure white and without impurities. It was manifestly int«rstratifled with a soft green hydi'ous mica schist which still remains attached to one surface. With it were pieces of coarse granular limestone containing grains of pale-green coccolite. French Head,* Field Bay. 95. Granular lemestone with coccolite. A rock consisting of white calcite, pale green to bottle green and olive green; coccolite in rounded gTaius, with fused surfaces ; bronze-colored phlogopite, and rarely grains of colophonite and spinel. The three constituents are present in about equal quantity, have about the same average size (2-6 mm.), and are so mixed as to form a massive granular rock which simulates granite perfectly. Frobisher Bay. 5fi8 Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 9G, Granular limestone. The contents of this parcel were manifestly scraped up from the foot of a limestone cliff where it was exposed to the action of the sea, and includes, beside the limestone and its contents, fragments of adularia and of i very ferruginous quartzite. The limestone is white, coarsely granular, and very crystalline, and contains (1) coccolite, disseminated in grains .1 to 2 mm. in diameter, and rounded exteriorly as if fused. The color of these grains is a deep bottle-green. They are transparent to translucent; (2) quartz, with rounded fused faces ; (3) minute red spinal rubies, octahedra, with rounded edges ; (4,) phlogopite in small prisms with rounded prism faces, and of pale plum color to bronze and duU yellow on the cleavage faces. From White Island on the south side of Frobisher Bay, near the head of it. 97. Coccolite. Large mass of fresh dark-green to blackish-green coarse coccolite. From parcel labeled, " From various places up Frobisher Bay and near the head of it." 98. Coccolite. A finer-grained somewhat weathered green coccohte. French Head, Field B.iy. The resemblance of the series of rocks here described to the Laurentian of Canada and the Adirondacks and to the Montalban of New Hampshire and Massachusetts is very marked. The typical Labradorian rocks are absent. The dark-red massive quartzites agree well with the Canadian quartzites of Huron- ian age. ERUPTIVE ROCKS. 99. QUARTZDIORITE. A grayish- black, compact, trap-like rock, seemingly quite fresh, but eflfer- vescing with acids. In powder blackish, with shade of green. The rock is almost aphanitic with glimmering luster; with a lens the feldspar crystals can bo seen as extremely fine lines. lu sections j^lagioclase in interlaced crystals, mostly elongated, is seen to make up the mass of the rock, in the interstices between which the other constituents appear. The feldspar is opaque — white by reflected, pale l)rown by transmitted, light, being filled with a pale yellowish-brown dust, wliicb is sometimes spread over the whole surface of the section. More often, however, there is upon this as a back ground a system of darker brown lines, parallel to the greatest length of the crystal, formed by an accumulation of the same niat(!rial along the lines of boundary between the separate laminae of which the crystal is composed (i)arallcl to (/> O co), and to this is sui)eradded in many Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 569 crystals a seconrt system of lines exactly like and at right-angles to the first. This second set of lines is, however, usually only partly developed, appearing only on part of the crystal or some of the lines running only part way across the same. The lines themselves are generally more evenly spaced, more rigidly straight, and finer than the other. In rare cases they are coarser and better developed. Finally, some crystals show a beaiitifully perfect and delicate lattice-work, all the meshes appearing to the eye exact squares. The second set of lines runs parallel to P. In agreement with this, the crystals, when examined with polarized light, prove to be polysynthetically twined parallel to co P (X) and O P. Some of the crystals also show distinct cleavage planes parallel to the jirism faces, and an arrangement of the same particles in these planes. Only with a Tolles lens, of the best definition and a power of 1,G00, was it possible to resolve these lines into their constituents. They prove to be made up of a multitude of pale-red trans- parent plates, with rounded outline, which appear as black spots when in the slightest degree out of focus, disai^pearing almost instantly, their place being taken by others not in the same plane. A few elongated microlites, apparently hornblende and much larger, are arranged in the same plane with the smaller plates, but there is no passage from the one to the other. The small plates seem to be hematite. The blackish-brown hornblende in broad crystals incloses much well-crystalUzed magnetite, many hornblende microlites, also cavities with mo- tionless bubbles, and is overgrown and often almost entirely changed into grass- green scaly viridite, which has also passed into all fissures in and between the feldspar crystals. Quartz in small rounded grains is evenly distributed through the whole, and filled with fine magnetite crystals, pale-green hornblende, and much smaller and longer apatite microlites, which sometimes pass with great regularity from all parts of the surface of the gTain toward the center. In one piece long fine red needles of goethite occupy fissures. A few crystals of olivine and masses that seem to have arisen from its decomposition occur ; also minute secondary aggregations mixed with viridite occur. Magnetite occurs in large aggregations among as well as in the other con- stituents. The minerals present in the rock in the order of their frequency are oligo- clase viridite, hornblende, magnetite, quartz, hematite, ? calcite, apatite. Trap-granulite. Trap-granulit. Lasaulx. Elemente der Petrographie, p. 348. Diallage-grannlit. Dathe. Die Diallagegranulite der Sachsischen granulit-formatioii. Zeit. D. g. G. xxix, p. 274, 1877. A large block of a massive brownish-black trap-like rock, breaking with 570 Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. broad conclioidal fracture, and when moistened slightly mottled with green and brown. It appears quite fresh in the interior, but efiervesces with acids. On the outside is a light reddish-gray layer of decomposition 2 mm. thick. On the fresh surface it has a glistening luster, and with the lens one detects minute scales of rubellan, fine needles of hornblende, and roundish spots of reddish color, which I>rove to be garnets. A few small cavities have been filled with a whitish mixture of calcite and a zeolite, in which radiating needles of shining black secondary horn- blende appear. The rock affords a reddish-gray powder and fuses at 3 to a whit- ish enamel. The powder treated with acid and examined under the microscope shows only slight changes; a small quantity of ocher and calcite is removed. Examined in thin section, the rock is found to contain the following minerals: Garnet, which makes up more than half the mass; biotite next in abundance; then hornblende and viridite, and more rarely apatite, hematite, calcite, magne- tite, and a zeolite. Cyanite occurs in long flat crystals, transparent, brUliaut, cut across by broad cleavage fissures filled with viridite. It polarizes with great beauty; occurs commonly in mica. The garnets are scattered through the whole mass, gathered in small groups or occurring singly, separated from each other by mica and hornblende. Many large garnets occur also in the mica. They occur mostly in rounded grains up to .45 mm. in diameter. Imperfect four, six, and eight sided cross- sections are not rare, and the smaller crystals inclosed in the larger and especially in the mica are often perfect rhombic dodecahedrons. The sec- tions of the crystals appear moderately magnified a pale reddish-brown to Isa- bella-yellow, being more or less clouded with a brown dust, except at the narrow border, where they are quite pellucid and colorless or show a faint tinge of violet. The transparent portions are stQl isotrope, and the central portions show aggTe- gate polarization, but when highly magnified it is seen that the transparent gar- net substance predominates in most crystals. In a few cases the decomposition l)roceeds from the circumference, and the center is still quite transparent. The dust is made up of chlorite i)lates, blood-red hematite scales, and amorphous grains. Many small perfect dodecahedra inclosed in the larger garnets are of bright lemon-yellow color, and show distinctly cleavage after go O. They are of the same yellow color throughout, and show no tendency to the accumulation of granular matter at the center. Many — apparently hornblende — microlitcs, ar- ranged in an irregular net-work, are found in them, sometimes passing out into the surrounding mica. Next in abundance is rubellan, in broad, fresh, transparent plates, bright hyacinth red to deep blood red, separating the groups of garnets from one Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 571 auother, and inclosing large crystals of all the other constituents, especially garnet and hornblende. Often several garnets or large crystals of hornblende lie wholly or partly inclosed in a single mica crystal, or, in the case of the horn- blende, run entirely across and divide the crystal into several parts. Besides these larger inclosures, there occur in great numbers long flat micro- lites, irregularly arranged, and which seem to be themselves of micaceous nature, long fine apatite needles, and rarely grains of magnetite or blood-red scales of hematite. The blood-red color occurs where the cleavage lines are lacking, and the P face is parallel to the section plane, while crystals cut parallel to the principal axis, and showing strongly the cleavage lines, are light brownish yel- low. In the latter case the mineral is strongly dichroic. The mineral is remark- ably fresh and clear in appearance, but is bordered by blackish-green fibrous viridite. The hornblende occurs in groups of elongated crystals, often fibrous and brush-like at their ends. It is mostly grass green, sometimes grass green and smoke brown at one end and colorless at the other. It accompanies the rubellan, but is less abundant. A blackish to grayish-green fibrous viridite surrounds many of the garnets, and is accumulated abundantly in the neighborhood of the rubellan and horn- blende, from which one would not easily distinguish it if it were not for its slight absorption. Several small portions of quartz and very rarely a grain of magnetite com- plete the list of the minerals observed. 102. Trap-granulite. Not to be distinguished microscopically from the preceding rock, except in containing finely- disseminated jiyrite. Thin sections show the garnets to be more decomposed, so that there is no clear rim left ; also the smaller garnets inclosed in the larger are much decom- posed. In the mica, which is exactly like that in the foregoing, very many small, perfectly clear, hexagonal cross-sections of apatite occur. Single plates of diallage occur. The section contains aggregations of hornblende, grass green or smoke brown at one end and colorless at the other, projecting into calcite, which fills free spaces in the mica, and is ti^ansparent, showing the cleavage sharply. With the hornblende is associated spinel, in separate octahedra, sharply built out and in crystalline groups of a deep cobalt to plum-blue color. 103. Trap-granulite. This is a coarser grained variety, but differs in no other respect microscopic- ally from No. 101. The garnets, which are the principal ingredient, are distinctly 572 Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. divisible into two groups, large and small, respectively, about ^ and 2 times as large as in No, 101. Decomposition has not proceeded so far, the crystals being quite translucent, of a faint ocher-yellow color, and in large part isotrope. One of the larger and many of the smaller show perfect eight- sided cross sections. Many of the larger crystals are grown together in groups of two and three, a little more than half of each being present. The larger crystals are affected in various ways by decomposition ; some have the center clouded with ocher-yellow, bounded by a clear ring, and this by a ring of blood-red rubellan in minute closely aggre- gated crystals, which project into the clear ring. Others having the exterior ring of rubellan are in the interior clouded more or less with a green material. In others this green material is gathered at the center, having a clear yellow area between it and the outer ring of rubellan. In others a pale grass green spreads over the whole, and finally the whole crystal is changed into a bright grass-green viridite, arranged in wavy masses, which recall the fluidal structure of obsidians. Cyanite occurs in smaller crystals than in No. 101, with rectangular cross sections. It polarizes brilhantly. Magnetite is abundant. The contrast of the bright green of the viridite, the deep blood red of the rubellan upon the Ijale amber background of garnet, makes this a very beautiful object under the microscope. 104. Trap-granuulte. This rock is like No. 101 in appearance, and came probably liom another portion of the same mass. It is, however, much more weathered and pitted super- ficially by the eating out of calcite, which had filled cavities in the rock. Rounded grains of quartz project from the surface. Many of the cavities are not wholly emptied, there remaining a soft pulverulent mass, which eflervesces freely with acid and is wholly dissolved. Black needles of hornblende, like the calcite of secondary origni project into the latter. With tlie lens one sees, especially when the rock is moistened, rubellan, hornblende and light gray spots, Avhich resemble the flesh-colored ones seen in No. 101, and which are, as in that case, garnet. The whole rock effervesces abundantly Avith acid. Under the microscope the section is iinich clearer, the rubellan more scattered and in larger crystals, the rest more uniform and homogeneous in appearance than in No. 101. The ground color is pale ocher-yellow, clouded with darker shades of the same color. The ground shows distinct traces of tesseral forms, and remains dark under crossed Nicols. In the mica small transparent garnets occur. The rubellan occurs in large clear pieces deep blood-red and dark orange, inclosing, (besides garnets,) hornblende, and needles of apatite; and often bordered by magnetite. Professor Emerson on HaWs Geological Collections. 573 The hornblende is for the most part deep green. Some crystals are reddish at one end, colorless in the middle, and green at the other. They show cross sections of 124°. Diallage in pale yellow crystals, with characteristic iuclosures, plagioclase in one or two large crystals and orthoclase grown fibrous from decomposition were also present. 105. Trap-granulite. This is a fresh fine-grained piece of the same rock, which shows a distinct separation into plates half an inch thick by a rude cleavage, which is not accom- panied by any parallelism in the arrangement of the constituents. Under the microscope it shows all the minerals mentioned under the last rock described, and the resemblance is so close as to render a special description superfluous. 106. Trap-graniilite. This piece is very much weathered, of a light chocolate color, mottled with large spots of a whitish substance, filled with blackish and greenish grains. The colorless spaces prove in their section to be amygdaloidal cavities, filled with an outer layer of milk-white zeolite and an inner layer of quartz ; both are filled with scales of viridite. The rest of the mass is much decomposed, but seems to have been originally the same as those above described. 107. Trap-granulite. A small much weathered piece- Labeled, " Found on the route between Eescue Harbor and Or-pung-ne-wing, an island in Frobisher Bay. C. F. Hall." SEDIMENTAET EOCKS. 108. Sandstone. A slab 12 by 15 inches, of a medium-grained rusty -brown flagstone, the sur- face covered with ripple-marks 25 mm. apart. The crests of the ripple-marks are weathered ocher yellow. Labeled, " Sandstone, with ripi>le-marks. Lupton Chaimel. Silurian." The following extracts from Hall's Narrative refer to this rock : " On arriv- ing at the next place of encampment, the last before reaching the harbor, where I had left the ship, the Innuits informed me that it was called Shar-toe-wik-toe, from a natural breakwater of thin or plate stone, the native word meaning "thin, flat stone." It is on a tongue of land nearly surrounded by water, on the west side of Lupton Channel." (p. 439.) Hall also mentions that as he stopped in Lupton Channel on his way home, an old Innuit woman brought on board as a present a fish upon a slab of red sandstone. 574 Professor Emerson on HaWs Geological Collections. The rock seems to be the same with those of Cape Alexander, Wolston- holme Sound, and Byam Martin's Island, and is probably from the base of the Carboniferous. 109. LmESTONB. A gray crinoidal limestone, made up of comminuted fragments of corals and crinoids, all indistinguishable. Lower Silurian? near head of Frobisher Bay. The ostracoids mentioned beyond occur in a similar drab limestone. 110. LniESTONE. A very compact red-gray limestone, deeply corroded by sea-water. Lower Silurian. Locality, O in-seen-o-ping ; partly illegible. 111. Limestone. A large flat piece of a compact even-bedded dark reddish-gray limestone, breaking with large conchoidal fracture, and containing, besides minute fragments of coal, part of the last whorl of a large longitudinally striated univalve. Lower Silurian. Locality, Frobisher Bay. 112. LlIVrESTONE. A deep black, massive, flinty, bituminous limestone, effervescing abundantly with acid, with perfect conchoidal fracture, weathering Avhite externally to a dis- tance of .5-2 mm. Utica slate. Localities, Frobisher Bay, Kun-gum-mi-ooke. 113. LrarESTONE. A dark brown, thin-bedded flinty limestone, with spots of coaly matter from graplotites, Utica slate. Localities, Frobisher Bay. French Head in Field Bay. Fragments of the limestones Nos. 112 and 113 were also present in abundance from many other points in Field and Frobisher Bay without special labels, and contain all the Utica slate trilobites and graptolites found in the collection. 114. Dolomite. A large mass of a ragged cavernous dolomite, very liarsh to the feel, dull gray in the interior, but in large part rusty. Frobisher Bay. 115. Dolomite. A large mass of compact buff dolomite, clouded with bands of smoke gray, containing crinoid stems, Halysites catenulata, Pentamerus conchidium, Dal. Upper Silurian. Locality, Rescue Harbor. Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 57.5 116. Dolomite. A compact buff magnesian limestone, effervescing very slowly with acid. Upper Silurian. % Kud-lu-nann. 117. Dolomite. A yellowish white, very compact and tough rock, without fossils. Frobisher Bay. 118. Dolomite. A pale cream-colored magnesian limestone, compact, fine-grained, breaking with very flat, broad conchoidal fracture, extremely brittle and ringing sharply under the hammer, only slightly whitened by weathering. Several large pieces were present, all uniformly and abundantly filled with the minute tubular cavities mentioned on page 579. Locality, "Hall's Island of Frobisher." 119. Dolomite. Many fragments of gray and buff limestones, all probably magnesian. French Head, Field Bay. DESCEIPTION OF FOSSILS. The fossils described below belong for the most part to two horizons. That of the Utica slate in flinty bituminous limestones, and that of the Trenton, rich in entomostraca, in gray argillaceous limestone. BuTHOTREPHis, conf. gracilis, Hall. Fig. 1, Natural size. ,.*irs)S^aaiii^_ Stem stout, subcylindrical surface rough, succulent, ? branching. Branches alternate acuminate. A unique specimen upon the surface of a piece of com- pact gray limestone like that containing entomostraca. The stems stand out from the surface of the rock, and are of lighter color and rougher than tlie rest of the surface of the rock. At one place alternating rounded stems, having a fruit-like aspect, are present, and many short separated branches are scattered over the surface. Protozoa. A small fragment of weathered silicious limestone, black at center, gray externally, shows many curious forms, which seem to be sponge spicvdesand tests of sihcious protozoa. What appears to be a hexactinellid spicule is repeated several times, four hollow tapering tubes, radiating at right angles from a com- mon center, with which the cavities of the tubes are continuous, and in which one looks down into the cavity of a fifth tube, the sixth having been removed in cutting the section. Also many fragments, pierced with close-set hexagonal open- 576 Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. ings, like many of the fenestrated polycystina. Other forms imitate the flat circu- lar diatoms, and one cross section recalls a sectioD through a single sphere of Piilvinulina. These forms require to be magnified 30 to 50 diameters. In small pieces of gray argillaceous limestone without special label and not associated with other fossils. Eeceptaculites (new species). " The receptaculites is unlike the several species of the Galena limestone of the West or the R. occidentalis of Canada. Mr. Salter speaks of one found in the northern part of the American continent: This may be that species or it may be a new one ; which it was we have no means of determining." (E. P. Stevens, Hall's Nar. Ap. 10, p. 594.) We have made inquiry, but can find no trace of this or the other fossils reported upon in the article quoted. DiPLOGRAPTUS DENTATUS, BrOUgU. sp. 1838. Fucoides dentatus. Brongn. Hist. Veg. Fos. pi. 6, fig. 9, 12. 1865. Diplograptiis pristiniformis. Hall, Grap. Quebec Gr. p. 110. 1875. Diplograpius dentatus. Hop. & Lap. Grap. of St. Davids, Q. J. G. S., vol. 31, p. 656, pi. xxxir, fig. 5 rt-5 A-. Occurs ill pieces 25-35 mm. in length, tapering slowly to a blunt point, width 2.5 to 3 mm. Hydrothecse 22-34 to the inch, average 30. The many forms which I have referred with some doubt to the D. dentattts in the very wide signifi- cation given to the species by Hopkinson and Lapworth in the memoir cited above, occur i^enetrating the black flinty limestone in various directions, or lying upon the cleavage surfaces of the thin-bedded varieties of the same black rock. In the former case they cannot be exposed for study; in the latter, beautiful casts of the uncompressed polypary are found. Other specimens are variously com- pressed, and the series of figures given by Hopkiuson «& Lapworth would serve perfectly to represent the various forms. In two cases the proximal end is pre- served as in 5 Jc {loc. cit.). Other forms have a more scalariform aspect than any there figured. They are all a little moi-e slender than the normal I), dentatus from New York. The species occurs in company with Triarthrus BecJdi, Calymene senaria, Endoceras proteiforme, &c. L K'alities : In dark-browii silicious limestone weathering dove colored from Fren<;h Head, Field Bay ; and iu black fissile silicious limestone at the ui)per end of Frobisher Bay and along the north shore of the same. Climacogbaptus quadrimucronatus, Hall. 1865. Climacof/rajUus quadrimucron(ilH!<, Hall. Grap. Quebec Group, p. 144, pi. xiii, figs. I-IO. Specimens flattened iu various ways represent well many of the drawings cited above, and especially a cast in the limestone of an uncompressed specimen is almost a facsimile of the restoration of the species there figured {he. cit), excei)t that Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. bll only in a few cases and then indistinctly are the characteristic spines indicated. As the measurements agree exactly with those of the C. quadrimucronatus, I think the specimens may without doubt be referred to that species. Found associated with other Utica slate fossils at French Head, Field Bay, and in Countess of Warwick's Sound. Glimacogeapttjs, sp. Many specimens of a form belonging certainly to this genus occur, but none are well preserved enough to allow of a determination of the species. Hydrothecae 30-31 per inch. Greatest width 2.5 mm., tapering slowly from greatest width. They occur in the same association as the preceding species, and are closely allied to C. bicornis, Hall, but are much smaller. SiCULA OF GRAPTOLITES. A large piece of chocolate-brown limestone; contains in immense numbers the embryonic tubes of a species of graptolite, probably of the B. dentatus, above described. These are minute very elongate hollow cones, often flattened; the mouth truncated obliquely, and prolonged in a slender rigid thread about the length of the calicle itself, which latter is 1.5 to 2 mm. long. Ctathophtllum ? PiCKTHORNn, Salter, sp. Strephodes Pickthornii, Salter. Sutherland's Journal, vol. ii, Ap. p. ccxxx, plate vi, fig. 5. 1878. Cyatliophyllum f Pickthornii, Woodward. Geo. Mag. n. s. Dec. II, vol. v, p. 388, pi. x, fig. 5,6. A single cup, of the size and shape of the smaller ones figured by Woodward. The lamellae are connected at the bottom by cross plates. In buff limestone. Halysites catenulata, L. A single specimen in buff limestone with Pentamerus. From Eescue Harbor ; quoted also from SiUiman's Fossil Mount of Hall, lat. 63° 44" N., long. 68° 56" W., by E. P. Stevens.— Hall's Nak., p. 594. Stictopoea kamosa. Hall. ? Many weathered specimens occur in the gray crinoidal limestone along the north shore of Frobisher Bay. It may be the same as the Alveolites ? arctica. Wood. Geo. Mag. 1878, p. 389. Heleolites (new species). Heliopora (new species). "The specimens of corals were very perfect and beautiful, and unlike any figured by Professor Hall in the Palaeontology of New York." (E. P. Steveus, Hall's Nar., Appendix X.) Crinoid stems and fragments are found abundantly, but in all cases round, small, and not determinable. S. Ex. 27 37 578 Professor Emerson on HaWs Geological Collections. LlNGULA CURTA, Coil. Many specimens, retaining tlie black, shining, finely- striated shell, and agree- ing exactly with Utica and Fort Plain, N. Y., specimens, occur in the black lime- stone associated in different pieces of the rock with all the other Utica slate fossils met with. Rynchonella, sp. Several minute specimens occur, characterized by sharp ribs, very high keel, and deep sinus ; in gray limestone with Entomostraca. Chonetes conf. striatella, Dal. A minute quite convex shell covered with fine ribs not visible except with the lens. The ribs anastomose toward the border, and are sejiarated in groups of from 8 to 10 by grooves twice the width of those between the separate striai ; height 4-6 mm. In gray limestone with Entomostraca. Pentamerus conchidium, Dal. The large mass of magnesian limestone No. 109, from Rescue Harbor, con- tains a single well-preserved specimen of this species and many cross sections, showing the characteristic septum. Tellinomya levata, Hall. 1847. Nucula levata, Hall. Pal. N. Y., vol. i, p. 150, pi. 34, fig. 1. 1875. Tellinomya levata, HaU. Pal. Ohio, vol. ii, p. 82, pi. 1, fig. 23. This species is represented by a single sharply defined cast of the beak and central portions of the hinge plate. Enough is preserved to show that the shell was veutricose, with large incurved beaks and posterior curvature of the hinge plate. It agrees in all points with the figure of the 3 interior of the shell in Pal. Ohio above cited. It occurs in a Fig. 3 magnified small fragment of buff limestone from the north side of Frobishcr three times. Bay, associated in the same piece with many indistinguishable fragments of bivalves, crinoid stems,and a minute Murchisonia gracilis, f The figure is drawn from a cast in rubber of the impression. CONULARIA TREKTONENSIS, Hall. A cast of one side of the shell, retaining in part the substance of the same of deep chestnut brown, shows all the characteristics of this si)ecies. In grjiy limestone with Entomostraca. Gasteropoda. Besides the Maclurea arctica quoted by Stevens in the Appendix to Hall's Narrative, page 594, the collection examined by me contains single portions of several species too fragmentary for determination — a small Murchisonia gracilis, Hall ; a Maclurea, and a small turbinoid slicll which may be Cyclonema hilix. Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 579 Endoceras peoteiforme, Hall. 1843. Endoco-as proteiforme, Hall. Pal. N. Y., vol. i, p. 208, pi. xlv-1. 1843. ? p. 311, pi. Ixxxv, fig. 1. Ten or more specimens of this form are present, which are all flattened, and resemble closely the flattened forms from Fort Plain, N. Y., from the Utica slate, referred by HaU with doubt to this species. Five of the specimens are flattened, showing neitlier septa nor distinct surface markings, but tapering at exactly the same angle as the Fort Plain specimens. Four retain very distinctly the exterior marking, and agree so exactly with the fig. 3, pi. lix, loc. cit., of the suiface mark- ing of E. proteiformCj var. Uneolatum, that it might have been the original from which the drawing was made. The surface is covered with transverse striae 3 to the mm. Two other specimens show the points of small shells, flattened, septa distant not quite ^ of the diameter. The specimens were found one in a gray limestone associated with crinoid stems, the others in the black shaly limestone with Triarthrus Beckii, Calymene senaria, Lingula curta, Diplograiitus dentatus, &c. Orthoceras laqueatum. Hall. ? Orthoceras laqueatum, Hall. Pal. N. Y., i, p. 206, pl. Ivi, fig. 2 a-c. A single impression agrees in the character of the striation with this species. In black shaly limestone. Tentaculites. ? Length of largest piece, 1.1 mm. ; width, .1-.2 mm. Large masses of the buff limestone, No. 112, are filled with minute tubular tapering cavities, showing traces of delicate transverse striation, now covered with scattered elevations, due to subsequent crystallization apparently of hematite. These Fig. 4 magnified twenty- may be cast of a minute shell or of the siculte of grap- seven times. tolites fi'om which the chitine has been wholly removed. They are so numerous, however, and the limestone is so compact and free from carbonaceous matter, that it does not seem possible that they can have been chitinous. Their organic origin is not entirely certain. Leperditia alta, Con. sp. 1856. Leperditia alta, Jones. Ann. and Mag. Nat. Hist. 2d ser. xvii, p. 89, pl. vii, tig. 6, 7. Length, left valve, 4mm.; breadth, 2f mm. Carapace valve strongly con- vex, minutely papillose under strong lens, pale chestnut brown, slightly oblong. Hinge-line straight, angles at end of hinge-line not strongly marked, anterior end slightly narrower than posterior, anterior tubercle indistinct, central tubercle not seen. 580 Professor Emerson on HaWs Geological Collections. A small fragment of gray argillaceous limestone was filled with specimens of this species, mostly as single valves and without admixture of other forms. The cleavage face of the rock showed many valves much weathered, the color being lost and the surface rough. They agree with the L. alta of the Tentaculite limestone. A few s 5 a valves slightly larger occur in a second fragment of a lime- fit". 5 6 cross-section from stone like the first, but with fossils of many species, espe- polislied section. cially Entomostraca, it having furnished all the species of that class described below, besides three species of Brachiopoda. North shore Frobisher Bay. Leperditia canadensis, Jones. 1858. Leperditia canadensis, Jones. An. and Mag. Nat. Hist. 3d ser. 1, p. 244, pi. ix, f. 11-15. Carapace valve minute, mottled brown, uniformly convex, convexity greatest in the anterior third, eye tubercle well marked, nuchal de- pression sloping equally to dorsal and ventral border. Dorsal margin straight, shorter than greatest length, ^. T . .. , . £ ventral margin obliquelv convex, extremities unequal, Fig. 6 a, right valve, X 4; fig. » i .. j i : 6 6, surface, X 80. Length, anterior angular, posterior broadly rounded. Surface of If mm. ; breadth, If mm. yalve covered with fine irregularly placed pustules in the specimen figured, in another coarsely and irregularly pitted. The small size and the pustulose surface do not agree with the published descriptions of L. cana- densis, but the fine hair like pustules, visible only with high magnifying power, would generally be wanting, the other valves in the same piece of stone showing no trace thereof. The specimen figured in a small piece of buff limestone from the north side of Frobisher Bay ; other valves in the gray limestone already mentioned. Primitia muta, Jones. 1858. Cytheropsis concimia, Jones. ? An. and Mag. of Nat. Hist. 3d ser„ vol. i, p. 252, pi. 9, f. B. 1865. Primitia muta, Jones. Ibid. vol. xvi, p. 425. Carapace- valve minute, smooth and shining ; deep chestnut brown ; in weath- ered specimens dead white; ovate to oblong-ovate ; generally leper- ^ ditia-shaped in outline, hinge-line straight, ends very unequal, ven- Fig. 7 loft valve ^^^^^ edge curved. Occurs in great abundance in company with the magnified four other entomostraca described, and alone in several small pieces of ""^i*" buff" limestone. One piece labeled north shore Frobisher Bay, the others without special labels. Forms agreeing with the P. concinua, Jones, from the Canadian Trenton, as also with the elongate P. tenera, Linnarsson (Vester- 8-b Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 581 gothlands Cambriska ocli Siliiriska Aflagringar, p. 85, fig. 70), from the Trinu- clid Skifier of Sweden accompany the typical forms. Primitia Frobisheri, u. s. Carapace-valve smooth, light-brown, nearly oval, strongly and regularly convex, sloping away from the central portion to meet the road reflected border at right angles. This border is broad- est on tlie ventral side ; is thin and must have been ap- l^lied to the corresponding margin of the left valve like a flange. On this margin are' placed 9-10 distinct ex- Fig. 8 n/cast of right tremely thin elevated ribs, which run up onto the valve "«'aive, x 4 ; fig. 8 6, , .,. ■, .,,, „,, , ,, , more enlarged to show towards a central point m the middle of the dorsal border; j.^^^^ Length U mm. • of these ribs only six are preserved. From the ventral breadth, | mm. furrow they may be traced up the valve so far as the shell is present, retaining their radial direction, and not anastomosing as is the case in more recent genera. Just in advance of the middle line of tbe valve a furrow commences, shallow at the dorsal border, grows narrower and much deeper, and ends abruptly at the middle of the valve, being represented in the interior by a strong elevation which rises nearly to the center of the carapace. This furrow borders at its deepest portion a proportionally large hemispherical elevated tubercle, which passes into the gen- eral convexity of the valve without the intervention of any depression except ujion the posterior side and for a short distance round onto the under side, where it is bounded by a shallow furrow prolonged from the central sulcus. The description is drawn up from a cast of the interior of a right valve having the shell remaining upon the border and half-way up the side and from the interiors of several valves in good preservation. It is allied to the ByricMa strangulata, Jones, An. Nat. Hist. 1855, 2d series, xvi, p. 172, = Primitia nana, Jones and HaU, loc. cit., 3d series, xvi, 1865, p. 420, from English Lower Silurian ; also to P. strangulata, Jones, in Linnarsson Vestergoth. Camb, o, Sil. Af., p. 85. Differs in the broad-ribbed mar- gin, large size, lower position of tubercle and greater convexity. A form which I have not found described occurs in the Tentaculite limestone of Schoharie with L. alta, which agrees closely with the above-described species. The state of preservation made it not possible to determine if the marginal ribs were present. Found in the gray limestone with other Entomostraca. Byrichia symmetrica, n, s. Carapace-valve flattened, elongate. Dorsal and ventral margins parallel. Extremities rounded about equally, meeting the dorsal border with slight and equal angles. Dorsal marging straight, not quite equaling the longest diameter of the valve. Valve ornamented by two irregularly-rounded tubercles, the ante- 582 Professor Emerson on Hall's Geological Collections. rior prominent, projecting slightly over the hinge-Line and running downwards and backwards ; the posterior rising abruptly from the broad sulcus and sloping, with flat surface to the point of junction of the dorsal and posterior border. The broad sulcus is hollowed between these two tubercules, passes around them anteriorly and posteriorly, and is bounded on the outside by a ridge which starts at the front side of the anterior tubercle and arches round till it coincides in direction with the ventral margin, which it then follows to the posterior portion of the Fig. 9 a, right v.alve, valve, where it curves round sharply to meet the posterior side fio- 9 6 1 ' • ' of the posterior tubercle. This ridge is highest in the middle. Length, 2|m m. ; and there sharply elevated and bent slightly toward the dorsal breadth, li mm. margin, while at both ends it is flatter and less distinctly marked off from the rest of the valve. It is separated from the ventral rim by a deep, regularly concave groove, which becomes broader and ill-defined towards the ends of the valve. The whole valve remotely resembles the cast of a bivalve shell with abnormally deep and large pallial and muscular impressions. The description is made from two sharplj' marked casts, the shell being present only in the ventral furrow, where it is thick, smooth, and light brown. Found in the gray limestone with other Entomostraca. Triarthrus Beckii, Green. The separated heads of this species are very abundant in the black lime- stones, and the separated cheeks and tails are also present in great numbers. They are all small, the heads being 4-7 mm. in lengtli. The occurrence of this common Utica slate species so far north is interesting, and, taken with its appear- ance in the Trinuclid Skiffer of Sweden (Linnarsson, loc. cit, p. 70, fig, 27), where it is also of the same small size as here, gives it a wide distribution. Calymene senaria, Conrad. Several small, flattened, well-preserved tails, and one cheek, which belonged to individuals not more than 12-15 mm. long, occur iu the black limestone with the other Utica slate fossils enumerated. Phacops, sp. The pustulose elevated glabella of a small individual lias the shape common to species of this genus. In black limestone. Asaphus, sp. A stout spine, triangular in cross section, and marked on the under side exactly as in Asai)hus gigas. In gray limestone with Entomostraca. Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 583 Trilobites sp. I liave figured a small pygidium, which is broad and flattened, apparently acutely terminated behind, with thiclaMied riiu. and broad, very shghtly elevated ribs. In black limestone. Fig. lU, magnified seven times. Cyphaspis ? Fbobisheri, n. s. The only parts certainly belonging to this species are the impressions of two cheeks upon different cleavage faces of a piece of the black limestone with Triarthrus BecMi, unless a pygidium upon the same piece, which agrees well with that of Cyphaspis Burmeisteri, Bar., in shape, may belong to the same individual. The cheek is thin, flattened, smooth, very remarkable for its angTilar outline and the very abnormal curvature of the spine. The edge is Fig. ii, magnified , , , ■■ ^ X X xl.4. Greatest separated from the rest of the cheek by a deep groove, flat at lengthof cheek, the bottom, broad in front, and narrowing behind. The border is 13 mm. formed by the curving upward of the crust and not by its thickening, and the spine is a prolongation of this border, having for a time the same dimensions and ending abruptly. The suture starts from a point on one side of the central line and runs across the border, directed towards the central point of the glabella, then continues in a sigmoid curve to the eye, and running around that passes in a curve outwardly convex to meet the posterior of the head at a point just inside the base of the spine. The eye shows marks of six facets placed in one curved line. In black limestone — Utica slate. APPENDIX IV. HALL'S CONVERSATIONS WITH THE INNUITS :-1864, 1868, AND 1869. PAPERS A, B, AND C. ^Fr>E]SrDIX IV HALL'S CONVERSATIONS WITH THE INNUITS. Prefatory Note to the Extracts prom Hall's Conversations with THE Innuits in THE Years 1864, 1808, AND 1869 — Paper A, Conver- sations held during the early part of Hall's Arctic resi- dence, December, 1864 — Paper B, Conversations held on the journey to and return prom the Straits op Fury and Hecla, April, 1868— Paper 0, Conversations held with a native of King William's Land and with others after Hall's visit to that re- gion, 1869. The extracts which follow show Hall's carefulness to come at the truth in regard to what he was seeking to learn from the Eskimos. His questions and cross-questions of individuals— taking them separately and, at times, when as- sembled in an igloo — evince care and skill. He availed himself of the watchful- ness of his faithful interpreter, Hannah. The publication in the columns of the New York Journal of Commerce of part of the extracts from his journals, to be found in Paper A, created at the time some excitement. Papers B and C are specimens of the talks which are found recorded with care in Books A and B, which have been returned to the Observatory by the courtesy of Lady Franklin's niece, Miss Sophia Cracroft, of London. These two books bear the indorsement of Captain Hall : — " This tenth day of January, 1871, sent by Express to England to be deliv- ered to Lady Franklin in Trust. Lady P., Miss Cracroft, and Admiral Sir Leo- pold McClintock may read them ; no copy or copies to be made." 587 588 Conversations with Innuits. wecember, i864. PAPEE A. EXTRACTS FROM HALL'S CONVERSATIONS HELD WITH THE INNUITS OF REPULSE BAY IN THE MONTH OF DECEMBER, 1864. December 6th, 1864. — This night I have had a deeply interesting interview with several of the natives. On the return of the walrus hunters, tliey almost uniformly call at our igloo during the evening to see and talk with me ; this evening Ar-mou first comes in. I asked him when he was at Igloo-lik a few years ago and what names of Kob-lu-uas he heard of, that he remembered ? The answer was Parry, Lyon and Crozier — the first two were Esh-e-mut-tas (chiefs or captains), but the latter one was not. Ar-too-a, the An-nat-ko, next came in. He has been to Pelly Bay (Ok-ke- be-gu-loo-a, as the Innuits call it) which is near Neitcli-il-le (Boothia Peninsula). While at my igloo Ai-too-a once told me that he had heard of Crozier when at Pelly Bay, that he (C) was one of the Koblunas belonging to the two ships that were in the ice near Neitch-il-le for two years before the white men left them. I proceeded to ask Ar-too-a the questions of the names of the white men he had heard of from Innuits, who had been to Igloo-lik. He said. Parry, Cro- zier and Lyon ; — he had heard of others, but could not now remember them. I asked him if he had heard a great deal about Crozier, and he replied, with great warmth, that he had ; and then went on talking with Ar-mou and Ebierbing, tell- ing them how much he knew. Oong-oo-too next came in, followed by Ou-e-la and Shoo-she-ark-nuk. The latter two, I knew, would be of great service in communicating important facts, if such were in their possession. The former is a smart, strong, muscular young man, a great musk-ox hunter, but a very small talker. I can never get much out of him in the way of tongue work. The parties now named were all present. Ar-too-a had become deeeply inter- ested in giving all the facts he knew about Crozier. He drew his brothers Oue-la, Shoo-she-ark-nuk, and my man Ebier-bing into a general conversation with him on the subject. Too-koo-li-too sat at her usual place on the took -too bed before tlie fire-lamp, knitting a sack of zephyr worsted to keep my nasal organ from freezing when I go out on sledge trips this winter. At the same time she was attentively listening to all that was said, that she might, as interpreter, commu- nicate the sooner to me. I was seated on my stool, deeply absorbed in all that I could understand, which I must confess was very little. December, 1S64.] Conversatiofis ivUli InnuUs. 589 While the parties named were engaged listening to what Shoo-she-ark-nuk was saying, I commenced to tell Too-koo-li-too that I wished her to say that the Crozier (of whom they knew something about as having been at Igloo-lik with Parry twenty -two years after he was at Igloo-lik) left the Koblunar country as an Esh-e-mut-ta of one of the two ships that were lost at Neitch-il-le. When I had this in mind, I had somehow out of mind the fact that Ar-too-a had previously told me that Crozier, the same one who was at Igloo-lik, was in one of the lost ships at NeitchiUe. My usual precaution about keeping what I knew about Parry's ships and Franklin's to myself, without letting one word out on my part, was not now adhered to. 1 had not got two words out before Too-koo-li-too signaled to me by a motion of her hand to keep silent. She then said, " They are saying something that I will like much to hear." Of course I waited with great solicitude. Too-koo-li-too's face soon glowed with delight as she said ; " That same man, Crozier, who was at Igloo-Uk when Parry and Lyon were there, was Esh-e-mut-ta (meaning captain in this case, the literal chief) of the two ships lost in the ice at Neitchille. Crozier was the onlj^ man that would not eat any of the meat of the Koblunas as the others all did. Crozier and the three men with him were very hungry, but Crozier, though nearly starved and very thin, would not eat a bit of the Koblu- nas, — he waited till an Innuit who was with him and the three men caught a seal, and then Crozier only ate one mouthful, — one little bit first time. Next time, Crozier ate of the seal he took a little larger piece, though that was a little bit too. One man of the whole number four died because he was sick. The others all Uved and grew fat, and finally Crozier got one Innuit with his kiak to accom- pany him and the two men in trying to get to the Koblunar country by traveling to the southward. The Innuits here think these two men and Crozier are alive yet; think they may have returned to Neitchille, if they found they could not get home to the Koblunar country, and lived again with the Innuits. The two winters the two ships were at Neitch-ille were very cold. The Innuits never knew such very cold weather — there was no summer between the two winters — could catch no seals or kill any rein-deer at most of the uisual places where they were most accustomed to find them. Eelative to the interview described, I was thankful— delighted, indeed, that Too-koo-li-too had checked me when I was about to request her to tell the Innuits present what I had in mind. A most important fact came out in consequence, showing that the Innuits far and near are conversant with all events of this nature that take place in their country. The Pelly Bay Innuits, from what had 590 Conversations wttli Innuits. [wcccmbcr, i8e4, been told them by Innuits who had seen Crozier, knew that he (C.) was not an Esh-e-mut-ta (captain) when wdth the two ships that visited Ig-loo-lik and the other places. But they knew that ho (0 ) was Esh-e-mut-ta when at Neitch-ille. The fact that Crozier was not an Esh-e-mut-ta when at Ig-loo-lik was well known to Ou-e-la, Shoo-she-aik-nuk, and Ar-too-a when they were boys. Erk-tu-a knows this well, and so it is known all the way from here to Ig-loo-lik and even Pond's Bay — I doubt not. How remarkable it is that such matters are perpetuated by a peojilc that have no knowledge of books and writings ! But these facts which I now give record to cannot be learned in a moment. Friendship and confidence must be established first, and even then there are obstacles ever in the way, which i^revent rapid acquisition of knowledge among this people. I am blessed with having Ebierbiug and Too-koo-li-too for my company and interpreters. December 7th, 1864. — This morning Erk-tu-a, the relict of Ewe-rat, and old mother Ook-bar-loo, called on me. I began my inquiries by asking Erk-tu-a to report to me all the names she could recollect of the Kob-lu-nas she saw when at Ig-loo-lik. She began and con- tinued thus — Paree, he Esh-e-mut-ta (captain) ; Lyon, he Esh-e-mut-ta (captain) ; Par mee, he Esh-e-mut-ta-nar (mate on Lyon's ship) ; Oo-liz-e (on Parry's ship) Cro-zhar, Esh e-mut-ta-nar (mate or some ofBcer not so great as captain on Parry's ship) ; * * * Erk-tu-a says that Crozier was called Ag-loo-ka bj' the Innuits. Cro- zier's name was given to old Ook -bar-loo's sister's son, whose name was Ag-loo-ka, and Ag-loo-ka's name was given to Crozier. The Innuit Aglooka is still living, but called Oo-li-zhum. After Erk-tu-a said this much I opened Parry's work, " Narrative of 2nd voyage for the discovery of a North West Passage," and turned to the list of officers &c, in the introduction to said work. I readily made out to whom " Par-me " (as Erk-tu-a spoke the name) referred. Chas. Palmer was one of the lieutenants on board of Lyon's ship, "Oo-liz-e" I could not make out. # * * * * Erk-tu-a said there wore dogs at Igloo lik named after Crozier, and also after Parry and Lyon, and so the Inimits would name dogs after me in way of respect to mo, and in commemoration of one who had treated their people kindly. This compliment, though to many it might seem funny, is one that touched my heart. * * # Relative to Sir John Franklin's Expedition, mother Ook-barloo says (vorj^ reservedly — in a way of letting me know of a matter that is a great secret among the Innuits) "that two annatkos (conjurors) of Neitchille ankooted so nnich, that no animal, no game whatsoever \vt)ul(l go near the locality of the two iships, which December, 1864.) Couversations With Innu'its. 59 1 were in the ice near NeitcMlle many years ago. The lunuits wished to live near that place (where the ships were) but conld not kill anything for their food. They (the Innuils) really believed that the presence of the Koblunas (whites) in that i^art of the country was the cause of all their (the Innuits') trouble." Mother Ook -bar-loo continued — " One man would not eat the flesh of his frozen and starved companions, and therefore when her nephew, Too-shoo-ar- thar-i-u, found Aglooka (Crozier) and three other Koblunas with him, Aglooka, who was the one that would not eat human flesh, was very thin and almost starved. One of the three men with Aglooka died, for he was very sick. He did not die from hunger, but because he was very sick. # * # The two an-nat-kos at Neitch-ille were very bad, for they ankooted on pui-- pose to have the Kob-lu-nas that were in the two ships two years in the ice all starved to death. Sometimes Neitchille an-nat-kos act very badly. December 8th, 18G4. — This evening I have had another talk with Ou-e-la, Shoo-she-ark-nuk and Ar-too-a about some of the men of Franklin's Expedition. The man who caught seals for Ag-loo-ka (Crozier) and some of his men — the thi-ee with him — ^is their cousin. His name is Too-shoo-ar-thar-iu. When he first found Crozier and the three men with them, Crozier's face looked bad — his eyes all sunk in — looked so bad that their cousin could not bear to look at his face. Their cousin gave Crozier a bit of raw seal as quick as he could when he first saw him. Did not give any to the other three, for they were fat and had been eating the flesh of their companions. It was near Neitch-il-le that this occurred on the ice. This cousin is now living at Neitch-il-le. When Too-shoo-ar-thar-i-u first saw Crozier and the men with him, he was moving, having a loaded sledge drawn by dogs ; he was going from place to place, making Igloos on the ice — sealing — he had with him his wife, whose name is E-laing-nur, and children. Crozier and his men had guns and plenty of powder, shot and ball. The cousin took Crozier and his men along with him, and fed them and took good care of them all winter. Be- side a high cliff Innuits saw something like Now-yers (gulls) fall down to the ground, dead, and would not touch them, for Crozier had done something to them — they (the Innuits) knew not what. In the summer Crozier and his men killed with their guns a great many birds, ducks, geese and rein-deer. Crozier killed many — very many of the latter. The Innuits saw him do it. A Neitchille Innuit went with Crozier and his remaining two men when they started to go to their country. They had a kiak Avith which to cross rivers and lakes. They went down toward Ook-koo-seek-ka-lik (the estuary of Great Fisli or Back's Eiver). Their cousin liked Crozier very much. Crozier wanted to give their cousin his 592 Conversations with Innuits. [December, i864. gun, but he would not accept it, for he was afraid of it, he did not know any- thing about how to use it. Crozier gave him his long knife (sword, as Too-koo-li-too and Ebierbing interpret it) and nearly everything he had. He (C.) had many pretty things. Crozier told Too-shoo-ar-thar-i-u all about what had happened, but he could not understand all. This cousin is now alive, and knows all what he saw and what Crozier told him. The story now is, that Crozier with his two men and a Neitch-il-le Innuit started from Neitch-il le — started in the summer or fall — for the Kob-lu-nas' coun- try, traveling to the southward on the land. They had a small boat that had places on the sides that would hold wind (air) (Ebierbing said to me.) From their (our informers') description, the boat must have been an India rubber one, or something like it, with hollow places in the sides for wind (air) to hold it up when in the water. (By this it would seem that Franklin must have had in his vessels a boat or boats called Halkett's air-boats, or its equivalent. But I do not recollect of ever reading or hearing about this particular ; however, I believe that he (Franklin) must have had something of this kind aboard his ship.) There were sticks or holes for this boat, to keep it open (spread) when needed. This small boat was wrapped or rolled up in a bundle or pack, and carried on the shoulder of one of his men. The sides of this boat, something like Innuits' " drugs " that could be filled with air. * * # " In-nook-poosh-ee-jook is the name of an Innuit who went with others of his people aboard of Ag-loo-ka's ship after the Neitchille Innuits heard that the Kob- lu-nas had all left it. This was while Ag-loo-ka and his three men were living on the ice in an igloo with her nephew. In-nook-poosh-ee-jook and his companions got at that time a great many things out of the ship. This Innuit often visited I-wil- lik (Eepulse Bay). At 11 a. m. Old mother Ouk-bar-loo came in, bringing a long, thick slab of powdered walrus ook-sook (blubber) for our fire-lamp. I proceeded to ask her about the interview she had with In-nook-poosh-ee-jook. Ook-bar-loo said : He told her how he, his father, wife, and children, and other Innuits, went to a big tent, and there saw starved and frozen Kob-lu-nas all dead, many with the flesh aU cut off from the bones — the head and necks all whole. Around the necks of several were strings of beads. These the Innuits took, besides many tin canisters, cups, knives, and other things. After this, these same parties with others, visited the ship or ships (the old lady could not recollect whether there was one or two), and got a great many things and carried them ashore. No one was on board the ship when these Innuits went to it. No Kob-lu-na's dead body was about the ship. December, 1864.1 Cofiversations with Innuits. 593 The Kob-ln-nas, or the Innixits, made a big hole in the bottom of the ship, as if they had wanted to sink it. The Innuits got two big long saws from the ship that the Kob-lii-nas had used to saw ice with and took them to the land. The Innuits saw that nearly the whole of one side of the vessel had been crushed in by the heavy ice that was about it, and thought that was why the Kob-lu-nas had left it and gone to the land and lived in the tents. By and by the Kob-lu-nas froze and starved. Among the things the Innuits got from the ship were a great manyood-loos (Innuit women's knives, like our domestic mincing or chopping knives in the States). These were all good, just what all the women wanted. Every woman had one, and there were more than enough for each woman and girl. Besides these, they got a great many knives for the men, such as pe-louds and pan-nas (small or short bladed, and long-bladed knives), a great many spoons and forks, a good many bright rings for the fingers, a great many round thin pieces of metal (medals and pieces of money, Too-koo-li-too says these must have been, from old Ook-bar-loo's description). Some were red, some white, and some looked like the metal ka-roons (a brass ornament worn on the foreheads of the Innuits here and at Neitch-il-le) are made of. (Too-koo-li-too thinks some of these money and medal pieces were bright gold and others brass). Thursday, De&r 15th, 1864. — 1.30 P. M — The astounding news that Ag-loo-ka (Crozier) arrived, with one man, among the Kin-na-pa-toos, his powder and shot nearly all gone ! I must give the particulars of the above startling news, as given me a few moments ago. At the time I got the above information there were, as usual through the day and evening, several Innuits in our igloo. The An-nat-koo's (Ar-too-a's) wife, and the wife of , and the old man. See-gar, were all seated on the dais or bed -platform, while Too-koo-li-too was at her place by her fire-lamp, en gaged telling these visitors about Ag-loo-ka (Orozier). Too-koo-li-too had just made the sympathetic remark — " What a i^ity it is that Ag-loo-ka and the two men who started together from JSTeitchille for the purpose of getting to the Kob-lu- nas country had never arrived." Old See-gar listened, as did the other Innuits present, to all that Too-koo-li-too said, and when she made the last remark, See- gar sprang from his seat, quick as a flash, and looking staringly at Too-koo-li-too, exclaimed with great force and surprise, " What ! Ag-loo-ka not got back ! Why," continued See-gar, " the Kin-na-pa-toos (Innuits who belong to Chesterfield Inlet) told me several years ago that Ag-loo-ka and one man with him arrived among their (the Edn-na-pa-toos) people, and that they (Ag-loo-ka and his men) had gone to where the Kob-lu-nas live further down the Big Bay " (to Churchill or Tork Factory, as Too-koo-li-too thinks See-gar tried to explain it). I was greatly in- S. Ex. 27 38 594 Conversations with Innuits. [December, is64. terested as well as suri)rised, in what See- gar said, as now recorded. I at once had Too-koo-li-too ask old See-gar several questions, which he answered by com- municating as follows : Ag-loo-ka, of whom he (See-gar) had heard Too-shoo-ar-thar-i-u tell all about at the same time that Ou-e-la and his brother saw him, arrived among the Kin- na-pa-toos, having one man with him, and his powder and shot were nearly aU gone. The Kin-na-pa-toos told him (See-gar) about this before, See-pee-lar (Cap- tain E. A. Chapel) and his brother came the first time into this bay (which was in 1860). The Kin-na-pa-too Innuits said that Ag-loo-ka and his man had gone on and had arrived at the nearest place where Kob-lu-nas live, which must mean Fort ChurchiU. Too-shoo-ar-thar-i-u told him (See-gar) (this was in the winter of 1853-4 at Pelly Bay) that Ag-loo-ka would probably get home to where the Kob-lu-nas live, unless somebody killed him, for he (Ag-loo-ka) knew all about how to hunt and kill took-too (rein deer) and nearly everything else that the Innuits could kill ; knew how to keep himself warm, how to Uve, just as the Innuits do ; as he (E.) had lived and hunted with him (Too-shooar-thar-i-u) and with many others of the Neitchille Innuits. Ag-loo-ka knew all about e:v'erything that the Innuits knew. The Kin- na-pa-too Innuits told him (See-gar) about Ag-loo-ka and his men ; did not see them ; but said that they had their information from others of their people, who did. December 22nd. — Old mother Ook -bar-loo gives me a call every morning, oftentimes before I am up ; but, nevertheless, she is always welcomed, as I am really glad to see her, and have " talks " with one so filled with the traditions of her peo])le. Not only does she call every morning, but usually repeats her visits two or three times during the day and evening. Her second call to-day was at 11 a. m. I was engaged writing at the moment of her coming in, and, after my usual greeting, continued on with it. Old mother Ook -bar-loo took her seat on the snow platform directly before me, and she and Too-koo-li-too did as aU women will do — went to talking. A few minutes before meridian Too-koo-li-too said to nie : " Ook-bar-loo has been telling me about a witch^' — as I understood Too-koo-li-too to say. I dropped my pen and looked Too-koo-li-too directly in the face, supposing that I might catch the i)eculiar smile indicative that she had a joke on hand for me ; but I saw she was in earnest, and that something of unusual interest must be in store for me. I therefore earnestly asked, " What did you say, Too-koo-li-too ?" She replied, "The old lady has just been telling me of a watch just like yours (mine) only not so large, that she saw when at Pelly Bay, which was all in complete order, December. 1S64.] ConversttUons with Innuits. 595 and liad a long chain to go around the neck and a key ; and the old lady, who had it, told her (Ook-bar-loo) that it once belonged to one of the many Kob-lu-nas that had died near Neitchille." I need not say that I was an attentive listener to this. At once I left my " tripod " (seat of three legs), and set myself flat down on the fur-bed deer-skins beside both Too-koo-li-too and Ook-bar-loo, and requested the old lady to tell me all about this watch. Through Too-koo-li-too she said : " When she was at Ok-kee-bee-jee (Pelly Bay), which was in the winter of 1853-4), she saw a woman who had a watch, with chain and key, which she always kept very carefully by her. This mother was mother-in-law of In-nook-poosh-ee-jook, the man who told her (Ook-bar-loo) what she related to me the other day. This mother of In-nook-poosh-ee-jook told her all about where and how she got the watch. She and her husband went to a big tent not very far from Neitchille, and among the frozen mass of human bones and bodies that were lying around in it she saw one Kob-lu-na body that had a bright white (probably silver) chain around the neck. She knew at once what the chain was for, as some of the other Neitchille Innuits had just come into pos- session of several watches and chains, which she saw." ''The body of this man was lying on one side, and was half imbedded in solid ice from head to feet. The way the chain was about the neck and running down one side of the body indicated that the watch was beneath it; and therefore, to get at the watch, she found a difficult and disagreeable task before her. Neither she nor her husband had any instrument with them that they would use for any such purpose as was desired; therefore, while the husband was seeking around, in and about the tent, collecting such things as he fancied would best suit him, she i)rocured a heavy sharp stone, and with this chipped away the ice from all round the body till it was released. Continued old mother Ook-bar-loo, in a truly sorrowful tone of voice : This woman told her that she could never forget the dreadful, fearful feelings she had all the time while engaged doing this; for, besides the tent being filled with frozen corpses — some entire and others muti- lated by some of the starving companions, who had cut off much of the flesh with their knives and hatchets and eaten it — this man who had the watch she sought seemed to her to have been the last that died, and his face was just as though he was only asleep. All the while she was at work breaking the ice near the head, especially the ice about the face, she felt very, very bad, and for this reason had to stop several times. She was very careful not to touch any part of the body whUe pounding with the sharp stone. At last, after having pounded away the ice from around and under the body, her husband helped her to lift it out of its 596 Conversations with Innuits. [April, isos. icy bed. Still she was troubled to get the watch from the frozen garments with which the body was completely dressed. Finally, the watch and key and chain were obtained entire ; and the woman now keeps them very choice, in commemora- tion of the terrible feelings she had when getting them from the dead Kob-lu-na, whom she dug out of the ice with nothing but a heavy, sharp stone. I asked the old lady if this watch was like the one I carried on my person, at the same time showing her Eggert & Son's pocket-chronometer (loaned to me by those parties, of New York), which is an old-fashioned one, of large size, in a heavy double silver case. She had told Too-koo-li-too that it was not so large as this, and she said the same to me. I then drew out from under the took-too furs, where I keep it, a small pocket-chronometer in silver cases (which I have in my possession by the kind- ness of Augustus H. Ward, of New York). Old Ook-bar-loo said it was like this, of the same size and kind ; that is, it was of white (silver) metal. It was not of such metal as my gold pen, though she (Ook-bar-loo) had seen many parts of watches — watches that had been taken to pieces — that were of the same color with my gold pen." P APE E B. SOME TALKS WITH INNUITS : NORTH OOGLIT ISLANDS, APRIL, 1868. "After the death of Kia, Koo-loo-a thought he would go deer-hunting in that part of the country where Kia had seen the strange person, as he believed he might find something that would be useful to him thereabouts, and as he wanted some wood with which he might make arrows and spear-handles between Ar-lang- ung-u and the N. W. cape of Melville Peninsula. He hunted, but found nothing he sought for. Here I asked if he, Koo-loo-a, during his search, found any piles of stone, called In-nook-shoo by the natives. He replied that he did. I then got Eae's chart and placed it before us. Koo-loo-a soon comprehended its nature, and then said that the extreme N. W. jjart of Melville Peninsula, and the sea by it of the chart was not as the land and water really are. He said that quite a large river runs from the eastward nearly parallel with Adge-go (Fury and Hecla Strait), and empties its waters into a bay very near to Cape Ellice of Eae's discovery in 1847. Near the river, south side of it, Koo-loo-a found a Monument of stone on a crest of rising ground, and a little to one side, west of the JMoiuiinent, where a curious kind of cache had been made of stones. The cache had been opened and the stones all thrown one side. The Monument and the cache stones all showed a great degree of freshness. He did not think they were the work of any Innuit. April, 1868.) Conversations with Innuits. 597 He looked carefully about where the cache had been made for the object to learn what had been deposited there. No signs that any meat had ever been put there. He does not think that any Innuit had ever before been so high up from Ar-lang-na-zhu (Garry Bay of Eae's chart). Koo-loo-a was with Kia on the deer-hunt when the latter saw the strange man, though not present at the time when Kia sighted and followed the strange man. A short time before Kia saw the stranger in black clothes Koo-loo-a felt thirsty and came to a lake. He had laid himself down to take a draught of water, and at the very instant he was placing his face down to it, he heard a loud crack, which he thought must be of a gun, for when small and living at Too-noo-nee (Pond's Bay) he had become familiar with the reports of the guns of white men that came there to kill whales. He was at the time so far from the sea that it could not have been the noise of ice cracking. Kia was very particular in telling him all about the strange man he had seen on Koo-loo-a and Kia meeting each other. The strange man was tall and carried some long thing on his shoulder and walked very fast. He had a cap on his head that was independent of his coat, but there was a hood to the long dark coat he had on. Kia kept himself hid behind the rocks and followed the strange man — for some time. Not long after Kia saw the strange man, that he (K.) thought must be an Indian; Kia heard a loud crack, which made him think of ice cracking, but the sea was too far off to hear so plain. Friday April 10th, 18G8. — This another gloriously fine day — succeeding days of cloudless ones. Vlll'' 30™ A. M. With Ar-tung-uu I am now to have a talk. I may here say that Too-loo-ar-chu and Ar-tung-ian are both old men who remem- ber well Parry & Lyon's visit to Ig-loo-lik. Parry was the attata (or father, so called of Too-loo-ar-chu, & as he (T.) says). Parry wanted much to have his parents consent that he should go home with him to England. Too-loo-ar-chu first saw Parry & Lyon at Nu-ee-u-new-gu-a (Winter island) Too-koo-li-too my Interpreter. I now ask Ar-tung-un if he ever heard of Et ker lin (Indians) being in this country. Ar-tung-uu says many years ago a little while before Koo-pa and his companions got so frightened by Et-ker-lin, many natives were there stopping at a place called Ing-near-ing up a large Bay to theN. E. of Igloo lik where one night in the fall of the year just before the time for snow the dogs commenced barking furiously when many Innuits sprang out of their beds and went out of their tents to see what was the cause. Some four or five Et-ker lin (Indians) were seen i^ass- ing along each conveying in his hand something like a stick. It was not so dark but that their figures were distinctly seen cutting sharply the back ground, which was the sky. Ar-tung-un was not one of the natives that saw those Indians for 598 Conversations with Innuiis. [April, ises. he was too late getting out of bed, but not thinking it possible there could be any Koblu-nas about he thought the strangers must be Indians. The lunuits were all so frightened that the next day they removed from Ing-near-ing to an island Ki-ki-tuk-che-iik. Following the removal many Innuits together went deer hunting when two of their number Ar-tung-un one of the two stopped while the others went on — stopped to hunt deer together. The two men or natives Ar-tung-un & an Innuit now dead, Aler-gaite, were walking when all at once they heard the bang of a gun as Ar tung un thought, for he had heard guns fired many times when Parry and Lyon's ships were at Ig-loo lik — then looked around to see what made the noise and by and by heard another gun report when they saw the smoke as of a fired gun not far oft", arise from behind some land & immediately two took too (deer) came running swiftly from that same place from whence they heard the gun and saw the smoke. Then Ar-tung-un and his companion were terribly frightened and ran to their tents and at once removed their families from the main land to South Oo glit by the means of their ki-as ; the distance to Ing- near-ing, two sleeps or three days from this island, N. Oo glit. Never saw anything more of those Et-ker lin. Now Ar-tung-un tells about his son Koo-pa and other Innuits that saw Et- ker- lin. One time (not a great whdeafter the above) Ar-tung-uu & Al-er-gaite went deer hunting at the same place where they went deer hunting before together when they heard the gun reports & saw the smoke at the last report. The par- ticular place Ar-tung-un now marks out on Parry's chart & he shews the place to be by one of two or three small lakes that extend to the Westward of the vexy large lake I discovered and passed over last year on my return to Repulse Bay from Igloolik. The place is near the line of mountains Parry has upon his chart & on a parallel with Og-big seer ping, or as Parrj'^ calls it Agiviperwicl: They killed two deer & made a cache of them & returned to their tents when they sent three boys after them. The boys were Koo-pa, In-nu, & Kia ; the latter (Kia) In-nu-men's brother. Al-er-gaite was the one who returned to the tent first; that is, he got back before Ar-tung-un for the latter remained out overnight to watch a deer that he had shot with an arrow which remained sticking in the deer's side. Al-er-gaite was the one that sent the 3 boys after the two deer. When Ar-tung-un got back the boys had returned without the deer meat — had left the meat, dogs and all, for they had seen four Et-ker-lin near where the two deer had been deposited. After the deer had been put a part upon the backs of the dogs and a part prepared and put upon their (the boys') own shoulders they .saw upon a hill not far ott" four Et ker lin each with something like a stick in his April, 1868.1 Conversations ivith Innuits. 599 hand and heard a noise like foxes, then great laughter. The fox noise and laugh- ter the boys did not hear until they had thrown away every thing and were run- ning away. Before the boys ran they saw the largest or tallest one of the Et-ler- kin who was A'ery tall make motions with his right hand which was raised high over his head. The motions were swinging motions from the Korth to the South. Soon as the frightened boys got back and repeated what they had seen, the Innuits all were alarmed and the lifting stone was resorted to, which said the 4 strange beings were not Ut-ler-Jcin. Ar tung un says that a few years ago he was out hunting at Kee- wee-gee a place»little back of the line of mountains that run North or Westward of Am-i-toke on a parallel of Am-i-toke when too frightened deer ran swiftly past him. Soon large grey dog came swiftly on their track which the dog followed by scent. When the dog saw him ( Ar-tung-un) it stopped. As Ar-tung-un was about to fire an arrow at the beast (dog) he saw that a short string was about its neck — when he carefully unbent his bow and tried to coax the dog to him Kod-lu-na way. The dog appeared playful but was too shy to allow Ar-tung-un to catch hold of the string. The dog was following the deer from the North & when Ar-tung-un had tried to catch the dog it ran away to the N. W. as Ar-tung-un shows on Parry's chart. The dog had short hair & it did shine very much something like one of the dogs Parry & Lyon had, though larger. It had short ears. String short ; only touched the ground. His curiosity so excited about the strangeness ness of the dog he did not notice what hind of string it was about the dogs neck. The time that he saw the dog was before Dr. Eae came to Iwilllik the last time. The four or five Et Jeer Un at Ing-near-ing were seen before Dr. Eae came here the first time. The time the four Et-ker-lin seen by Koo-pa & the other two boys was after Dr Eae wa;; here first time as Ar-tung-un thinks and remembers. The dog a very small body, long thin legs & poor, the tail long & curving upAvard just like one Parry had only much larger; that is, the dog was the same build or form. While Parry's was black, the dog he saw with string around his neck was grey — (like in color one of mine old See-gar let me have, " grey.") Ebierbing says it surely was a grey hound" from Ar-tung-un's description. Ar-tung-un says they had three dogs on board Parry and Lyons ships. Ar-tung-un having said this ; I turned to pages 297 & 299 of Lyon's Private Journal & see that there was a large Newfoundland dog, a grey -hound belonging to Parry & a ter- rier " Spark" belonging to Eeid on board of the "Fury & Hecla." (It is with great exertion that I have kept about to day for I have been and am now really sick. I caught a severe cold on the day we laid over at our first 600 Conversations with Innuits. [April, isos. Igloo encampment on the sea ice of Fox Channel at Oo-soo ark u. Thus with my sprained leg I am forced to think myself partially if not wholly an invalid.) " Saturday, April 11th, 1868. — The present notes I make + morning, for not until this morning, since Friday night, have I been able to rise from my couch. I shall pencil the notes as if made at the date of the heading. This morning, according to my previous arrangement, Nub-er-lik, accom- panied by Frank Lai lor, my servant, started off with my- sledge and team of dogs for I-gloo-lik to get a load of walrus meat belonging to Nub-er-lik and Too-goo-lat, which meat is for me and party to use on my proposed journey to Fury and Hecla Strait to the Western Sea of Ak koo-lee. Very many calls have I had to-day from the now numerous natives here, all sympathizing in my sickness. Almost every hour a family from Ping-it-ka-lik arrives here, at once coming in to see me, and then proceed to erect an igloo and place their household effects in it. My arrival has caused a small village to grow into quite a city. The old woman Ar-na-loo-a, of Parry fame, called iu to-day, being her 2d call since her arrival here. She expressed deep sorrow that 1 was sick, and said she greatly desired that I would soon be about again. She says that she was with her husband many years ago when he was hunting deer not a great ways from the mountains west of Am-i-toke, He was on one side of the pond and she walking on the opposite side. Her husband found a tenting-place at the foot of a mountain close by the pond. He found there a large oot-koo-seek, painted red, and a tin canister of same color, and he saw half a plate down in the water of the pond. There were strong indications that salmon had been cooked iu the large tin can, for there were salmon-bones about the can. Everything looked fresh, as if done not long before, for there was no moss or rust about the tin cans. Yet she and her husband thought no one could have left these things there but Parry or some of his men. The large can now at Too-noo-nee-roo-shuk. The small one was given to her brother, who is now near Ig-loo-lik. There was a fire-place of stone by the tent-place. She saw these things soon after Ar-tung-uu found them. Ar- na-loo-a saw the tenting-place near the foot of the mountain by the lake of the party that must have left the cans and made the fire-place. Tliis mountain is some distance to the of the wall of mountains that extend far to the north- ward back or west of Am-i-toke. This evening an Innuit by the name of In-nfi came in to see me, he having just arrived from Piug-it-ka-lik, where he and family are stopping. I recognized him at once as having seen him at Ig-loo-lik on my visit last year. Knowing him to be an Innuit who was of the party of tlie three boys who saw the rei)orted four Et-ker-lin many years ago, I raised my liead April, 186S.] Conversations tvith Innuits. 601 from my couch and asked him if he had ever seen any Et-ker-lin. He answered quickly " Na-o " (no). Following this, he hesitated a moment, and then cor- rected himself, and said, many years ago he and Kia and Koo-pa together went after some deer-meat where some deer had been killed ; saw three Et-ker-lin. He then most earnestly and most eloquently described the incident, the same, save a few minor points, as Koo-pa had told me at Eepulse Bay a short time before start- ing on this journey." April, 12th, 1868, now l^* P. M. — Ar-tung-nn present as well as half a dozen other Innuits, large and small. I now ask Ar-tung-un about his once find- ing an oot-koo-seek that once belonged to white men (as told me by his son Koo-pa, and secondly by his wife Ar-na-loo-a yesterday). Old Ar-tung-un has been ankooting and no answer to my question above as yet. Parry's chart before him all the time while ankooting, his withered hand coming down now and then for its fate. I had placed it in our laps for the purpose of his showing the locality upon the spread chart so forcibly that I felt alarmed where he found the oot-koo- seek. He is now through ankooting, and proceeds to tell about the matter. Ar-tung-un was hunting took-too one summer a long time ago one day's travel from the line of moimtains eastward, nearly on a parallel with the point where Lyon turned back when seeking to find a pass through the mountains to the western sea in 1823, when he came to where there had been a ten ting-place — the shape of the tent as shown by the stones that had been used to fasten it down square or oblong, long and narrow. It was not such a tent as the Innuits use. The particular spot, near base of a mountain and alongside of a small lake. Alongside of the lake he found an ook-koo-seek, about 1 foot by 15 inches and 18 inches deep, as shown by Ar-tung-un's measuring with his hand on Parry's chart. It was tin, and painted red — completely inclosed except a hole in the top of about 3 inches diameter. Inside were some pieces of salmon bones. Besides this oot-koo-seek he found a round can about the size of a tin kettle hanging hy our flre-lami>, and this was painted red too. No top to this, but there was some very white tallow in it. Never saw any cans painted like this on Captain Parry's or on Lyon's ships. This can was painted all over on the outside, while those on Cap- tains Parry and Lyon's ships were only painted on the tops, with letters on the tops. On the other side of the fresh- water pond found an earthern stone jug, that is, as Ebierbing says, a jug like one Ar-mou gave me some seal-oil in a little while before we left Eepulse Bay, which was an earthen stone jug of light color. This jug Ar-tung-un found had its top broken off. These cans Ar-tung-uu found were not rusty, nor was there any moss about them; was very much surprised at 602 Conversations with Innuits. [Aprii, ises. the freshness of everything about them, for he certainly thought that nobody but Parry or some of his ships' companies could have tented there and left those things. Alongside of the tenting spot was a fire-place of two stones and which were blackened with smoke. The fire that had been used was the Est-shu-tin (Andromeda tetragona), for a little of it was there in a little pile by the fire-place. Everything looked as though it had been done only a little while before. The smoke on the stones would not have been there on simply burning Est-shu-tin more than two or three years, and the wood would have been white and looked very different from what it did in less time, says Ar-tung-un. The time when he found these things was before he heard of Dr. Eae being at Iwillik the first time. He heard of Dr. Eae being at Iwillik the next summer after Dr. R. left, which was in 1847. Ar-tung-un does not now think it possible that these things could be left as he found them by Parry or his men, for the salmon meat that he found in the large red can would have gone, and everything else would have looked much older altogether than they did. Koo-pa and the other two natives with him saw the four Et-ker-lin before Ar-tung-un found these things. The place where the Et-ker-lin were seen was not far from where Ar-tung-un found the tenting-place and the things now described. This much has Artung-un told me as a man speaking without any thought of deception. I can read the man like a book. He means to tell the truth, and only the truth. An hour after the above interview I was present at a seal-feast at Nood loo, where was congregated a large number of Innuits ; and when through with the feast, with the aid of my "Joe" (Ebierbing), I had a talk with Ar-tung un, in presence of all the Innuits there, for the purpose of testing the memory and accu- racy of the old man. I asked him to tell me about the little dog which was on board Parry's and Lyon's ship. He said the little dog was a great favorite with everybody, and was a spotted one; one time a wolf came about the ships, and this little dog, with Parry's dog, which was a black one, ran after tlie wolf, when several white men hastened after the dogs to bring them back. After a while the men returned, bringing Parry's dog, but they could find nothing of the little pet dog ; so all concluded that the little dog must have been killed and eaten up by the wolf. Next day (contiiuied Ar-tung-un) some of the white men went out to see if they could find out what really had become of the little dog. When they returned they brought the head, it being all that they could find of the little dog. He could not remember the name of this dog, but on my telling him it was " Sjiark" he then smiled and said it sounded just like it. The old man has not only told the facts about this little dog — a terrier — as related by Lyon, whose work I have April, 1868.] Conversations with Innuits. 603 with me, but has told this much more, that the dog was spotted, and that its head was found. I asked Ar-tung-un if Parry or any of his (Parry's) people ever had a tent or a party at King-me-toke-big for the purpose of killing ducks in the summer or for any other purpose. He said "No"; the reason some Innuits think so is because some beans and what was conjectured to be a Kob-lu-na tentmg- place were found there. Ar-tung-un said Parry and Lyon used to have hunting parties stationed at Ar-lang-nuk, but not farther south. North Oo-&lit Isles, Monday, April IMh, 1868. — This morning it was found that the ice-floe was passing in upon the island from the eastward ; there- fore the walrus-hunters were aroused early. Before VP A. M. my igloo had the better half of a very huge walrus on its floor, which Too-goo-lut, brother of Ik- kti-men, now of Repulse Bay, killed as soon as lie got upon the drif ting-ice. Soon as the walrus was killed, Ebierbing took our dogs and drew in the part as indi- cated above. I am waiting here at N. Oo-glit Isle for the natives to get a sufficient supply of walrus-meat for me and party to make a journey to the northern part of Mel- ville Peninsula adjoining Fury and Hecla Strait, and then search for white men, or such indications as may exist there to prove the truth of the many reliable statements that have been made to me by some of the Innuits now of Repulse Bay but formerly of Ig-loo-lik, and by some of the natives of this place; I am stop- ping also for more kow (walrus-hide) for the dog's food. Wednesday, April 15th, 1868. — Now, Xi'-lO™ A. M., and 1 have just had a most prompt response to my invitation for certain Innuits to come to my igloo and have a good talk with me. The following Innuits are present seated around me on our bed-platforms in our capacious igloo: Old people that saw Parry: Ar-tung-un and wife Ar-na-loo-a, Ag-loo-ka, Koo-loo-a, Too-loo-ar-choo, Oo-shoo, daughter of Tuk-kee-lik-e-ta; Tu-mu-king, In-noo-zhoo, Ek-ke-ra, In-nii, wife of Arng-na-look-shoo-shark ; Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too ; Papa and wife. The talk begins with Iniui (Joe and Hannah, interpreters) : One time long ago In-nu, Kia, and Koo-pa went after some deer meat. When they got there, they saw three men on the top of a hill close by ; they had such clothes on that they shook very much in the wind. They all were sure they were not Innuits, but thought them to be Et-ker-lin (Indians). In-nu was so frightened he cannot remember what these men had in their hands. Cannot tell whether their clothes were light or dark. The place, near the high land west of Am-i-toke, between the large lake Tess-u-e-ark and the high land west of it; the large lake, 604 Conversations with Innuits. [April, ises. the one I and One-la passed over from Ig-loo-lik last year. Soon as he, In-nu, and the other boys saw these Indians they threw away their deer meat, leav- ing the dogs with meat on their backs, and then ran with all their might for home. * * # Koo-loo-a says that at the same time he was hunting with Kia he had killed a deer and sat himself down on a rock and eat some of the meat. When he was through eating, he went to a small pool or lake to drink. He had put his head down, and just before getting his mouth to the water he heard something crack, which, he says, was ti-mana-to (the same) as the crack of guns ; — he had heard the crack of guns when living at Too-noo-nee (Pond's Bay). He could not tell from which direction the sound came on account of his position in the act of drinking; looked about, but could see no one, and did not hear the noise again. The place was near the N. W. extreme of Melville Peninsula, as he, Koo-loo-a, points out on Parry's chart. Same day Koo-loo-a heard the crack, as he thought, of a gun ; while walking around he came to fresh tracks on some grass and the tracks longer than his foot, the tracks so fresh that the blades of earth, grass had not all regained their upright position. Some of the grass was then graduallj^ lifting up as it had been trod upon. The steps long and foot-marks ''turning out." Next morning after hearing the crack and seeing tracks both Koo-loo-a and Kia moved their tents and families away from that place. The next morning after moving, Koo-loo-a went to work fixing the skin of the deer he had killed. As Koo-loo-a was late in getting ready, Ki-a started off deer-hunting alone. By and by Kia saw a man coming up the hill on which he (Kia) was, coming directly toward him. Kia thought at first the man to be Koo-loo-a, but on look- ing longer and more observingly Kia saw his mistake, for it was not Koo-loo-a, but a strange man having a cap on his head that was distinct from his coat. He saw that he (the stranger) had strange clothes on and carried something strauge in a strauge way on liis shoulder. Kia could not, from his position behind the rock, see much of the stranger's face; the clothes not black nor white; coat on that came down to or almost to liis knees ; the make of clothes altogether different from Innuits. The stranger had something across his shoulder running diagonally; this something was long and wide at one end and narrow at the other end. He was Avalking rather fast and going directly toward the point on N. W. extremity of Melville Peninsula, as showed by Kia on Parry's chart. Kia fol- lowed the stranger up for some time and looked sharp at him. Kia kei)t himself hid among the rocks all the time. Next morning Kia and Koo-loo-a moved their April, 1868.J Conversations with Innuits. 605 tents and families to the same place as when Kia saw the strange man, and then they all saw the stranger's tracks, which showed a long foot narrow in the middle. Same day Koo-loo-a, while hunting, saw the monument and cache stones he has before described. From there (the place where the tents were, the place where strange man had been seen) Koo-loo-a and Kia with their families removed down to Ar-lang-na-zhii (Garry Bay), and thej'^ saw nothing more of the kind he (Koo- loo-a) has been describing. Now 0"^ 30™ P. M. ; Koo-loo-a and all the Innuits are asked to get at the year when the above took place. In 15 minutes the answer comes by the show of 13 raised fingers = thirteen years ago last Fall. This brings it out that it Avas in 1854 that Kia saw the white man that I have not the least doubt was one of Sir J. Franklin's men. * * # Now I commence a talk with Oo-shoo, the wife of Too-goo-lat, the latter the brother of the good and kind-hearted In nu-men, now of Eepulse Bay, but lately of Ig-loo-hk ; Oo-shoo is the daughter of Tak-ee-Uk-ee-ta, whose portrait Lyon so faithfully drew for Parry's Narrative of his second voyage for the discovery of the N. W. Passage. Oo-shoo says that she was at Koong-wa (the Narrows uniting the N. Pole Lake with Christie Lake) many years ago, where a party of her people was stopping, deer -hunting, in the fall. There at t?.^ Narrows deer were killed, and some placed on deposit under stones ; a pile of Est-shoo-lin (dwarf of shrub An- dromeda tetragona), for fuel, was picked by Oo-shoo and the wife of Qua-sher. By and by Qua-sher and Too-goo-lat took their ki-as and proceeded on toward See-jak-big. Too-koo-lat's step-father (an old man), with the two women and Oo- shoot and Kan-wong-a (wife of Qua-sher) stojiped a while at Koong-wa, then moved along on the land by Christie Lake in the direction Qua-sher and Too-koo- lat had proceeded. Half-way to Nu-ker-ta (the place where Ar-too-a was drowned) the woman and the old man made a stop, tenting there. While the old man re- mained at the tent, the woman, Oo-shoo and Kan-wong-a, went back to Koong- wa (the Narrows) after some meat and things they could not carry the first time, and then, after getting what they wanted, they started back. By and by, want- ing to rest, they sat down on a stone, and soon Oo-shoo saw what she thought to be two Innuits ; soon came to the tracks of two men, which greatly frightened the women. The tracks were those of two men — of one large man ; the tracks of the two narrow in the middle and long. Before the women got to their tents they heard a noise, a shouting noise, but they thought it must have been the old man they left at the tent. When they got back to the tent, Oo-shoo asked the old man if he had been shouting, and he said no. They told the old man all about what they had seen and heard. # * # 606 Conversations with Innuits. iMay, i8«9. PAPER C. JOTTINGS ON A SLEDGE JOURNEY. I. — INFORMATION PICKED UP MAY 8, 1869. Crozier had a little book as he sat in Ow-wer's tent, and wrote notes. He said, while in the tent, " Ag-loo-ka wonger," patting his own breast. Outside, he said he was going to I-wU-lik, making motions with his hand in that direction. No dog with Ag-loo-ka's company ; now-yers, geese, and ducks hanging to the boat. One man only very fat, the others all poor. One man with Crozier in Ow- wer's tent said. Tier-kin wonger. One man with one of his upper teeth gone, and one with marks on the indent or saddle of his nose. Trouble thought to be among the men ; but not so. They were putting up the tent and stopped, star- ing at the Innuits. When Crozier spoke to them then, they at once resuiAed their work. The Innuits left Crozier and men encamped there, and moved inland, sus- picious that they abandoned starving men. Crozier described to them the ice destroying their vessel, his men dying; the full meaning comprehended afterward by the Innuits. An awning over the boat, roof-like. No sword worn by Crozier. In a little bay were Crozier's party when the Innuits first saw them. One man cross-eyed or squinted. Same boat found on mainland, (or rather isle, as the tide is high on the west side of inlet of Point Richardson.) Crozier, while in Ow-wer's tent, eat a piece of seal, raw, about as big as fore and next fingers to first joint. II.— MAY 11, 1869. Poo-yet-ta was the Innuit who first found these remains of the five whites. The remains, some not buried, but some found lying down on the high parts of the island, all close together, and each fuUj'^ dressed ; flesh aU on the bones, and uumutilated by any animals. Next to Too-loo-a's body, was one preserved-meat can. This can found by Poo-yet-ta beside the body of Tooloo-a unopened. It was opened by the Innuits and found to contain meat and much tood-noo with it. No bad smell to it. The contents eaten by the Innuits. The meat and fat very sweet and good. A jack-knife found in the pocket of one of the five men. The graves of the two men (white) that are buried on the point of King Will- iam's Land on the east side the mouth of Peflfer River were found by Nee-wik- tee-too, a NeitchUle Innuit now dead. His widow, the old lady with shaking head at twenty-seventh encampment, whom I saw when there. The bodies buried by May, 1869.] ConversttUons with Innuits. 607 placing stones around and over them; the remains facing upward, and the hands had been folded in a very precise manner across the breasts of both ; clothes all on ; flesh all on the bones. On the back of each a suspended knife found. The bodies perfect when found, but the Innuits having left the remains unburied, after unearthing them, the foxes have eaten meat and sinews all oft' the bones. A tent- ing-place of the Avhites close by where these two men were buried. Many nee- dles and one nail found by the Innuits at this tenting-place. These remains found the same spring as those of this island, Kee-u-na. There being nothing for the subsistence of any living thing on the isle, it is there- fore called Kee-u-na. The boat on the west side of the inlet — that is, west side of Point Eichard- son — was found same season of same year as remains at Kee-u-na. A keg of pow- der found at the boat, and much of contents emptied on the ground ; a gun or two found there. The nature and use of these things not known to Innuits till they saw Dr. Eae in 1854 at Pelly Bay. Poo-yet-ta had seen gnns of Ag-loo-ka when at NeitchiUe, but did not know the nature of the black sand stuff (powder). An igloo was blown to atoms by a little son of Poo-yet-ta and another lad, who were afterward playing with the powder canister having some of the black stuff in it. They dropped some fire into the canister through the vent or opening; their faces were awfully burned and blackened with the explosion ; no one was killed, but the igloo completely demolished. The grave and remains were in same perfect methodical state when found as those at the two at the mouth of Peffer Eiver. This grave on King "William's Land about due north of Kee-u-na. The body dug up and left unburied by the Innuits. This white man was very large and tall, and by the state of gums and teeth was terribly sick (bad state), as lu-nook-poo- zhee jook described. lU. — TALK IN AN IGLOO ON TODD'S ISLAND, MAY 14, 1869. Now, noon and the wife of Tiik-pee-too present in our igloo at my request, having understood that she has seen some of the skeleton-bones of the five men who died on this island, Kee-u-na (Todd's Isle) ; her name, E-vee-shuk. I now, with Jack's assistance as interpreter, ask her two questions : Did you see anything of the men who died on this island ? Answer. She has seen five skulls of the white men who died a long time ago here. Did you see Too-loo-ark? Answer. Saw the bodies of four white men in one place on the island, and of Too-loo-ark a little way from the four. When she first saw them flesh and clothing on aU the men ; the bodies entire ; and after making tupiks near, the dogs devoured much of the 608 Conversations with Innuits. [J"iy, iseo. flesh of the kob-lu-nas. It was some time after this that she saw the five skulls she first spoke of as having seen. She saw these bodies entire one winter after Poo-yet-ta found them, and the clothes these men had on were black; — their kum-mins (boots) those men had on were of the same kind of leather as the belt I have given to In-nook-poo-zhe-jook ; tanned leather from the United States. Were these men buried? Answer. No, they were lying as they had died, on the top of the ground. Where are the skeletons now ? Answer. On this island, some in one place and some in another, but all are under the snow ; have tried to find them since we arrived here, but the snow covers them so deep cannot find even one bone. When snow is gone all the bones can be seen. Did you ever hear of any white men dying on Ke-ki-tuk-ju-a (Montreal Island) ? No, never. Did you ever go to the place where the boat with many dead kob-lu-nas were found by the Innuits on the other side of the strait? Yes, I have been there. Where is the place ? I now show her Eae's chart, and have shown it to her before, but not for the object I now have. On ascertaining the position of Point Ogle, Miscononchie Isle, and Point Bichardson, she puts her finger on the west side of the inlet west side of Point Eichardson, and says that was the place where the boat was found. Did you see any bones of white men there ? She did ; the land low and muddy there; the sea- water close to; saw pieces of the boat, after the Innuits had broken it up. Can bones — skeleton bones — be seen there now, when snow and ice are gone ? Answer. She thinks not, for it is so muddy there, and the mud soft, that they have all sunk down into it. She continues : One man's body when found by the Innuits, flesh all on, not mutilated, except the hands sawed ofl" at the wrists; the rest, a great many had their flesh cut off as if some one or other had cut it off to eat. I now go further on this island than our igloo is, for this woman to show me where she saw the five dead men before they were partially eaten by dogs. Tuk-pee-too and his wife E-vee-shuk, with one of their little ones, have just taken a walk with me, the woman leading me to the place where the five men died. It is the southeastern end of the island, within 20 fathoms of the shore. I have just marked the spot, on which we shall erect a monument, over which we shall pay our humble tribute to the noble dead. ONE OF HALL'S CONVERSATIONS WITH IN-NOOK-POO-SHE-JOOK AFTER HIS RETURN FROM KING WILLIAM'S LAND. July 5, 1869. — Another short inter\iew with In-nook-poo-she-jook this morn- ing about ten o'clock, just before he and the Innuits started off" on a sealing ex- cursion. Ar-mou assisted me in this brief talk, as Joe and Hannah were both July, 1869.] Conversations ivith Inmiifs. 609 busily engaged outside of the tent. By the by, I can use quite a number of the Ee])ulse Bay natives to good advantage as interpreters when I talk with natives of distant places, such as Neit-chille, Telly Bay, and Ig-loo-lik. With the English Admiraltj^ chart before us, I asked In-nook-i)oo-shee-jook to tell me again where the monument had been erected that had the long stone on top pointing toward Ki-ki-tuk (King William's Land), which he told me about yesterday. He then pointed to the same place as yesterday, to wit, on the coast soutli side of Inglis Bay, south of the long narrow island which is but a little way east of the mouth of Castor and Pollux Elver, discovered by Dease and Simpson in 1839, the terminal lioint of their discoveries in that direction. In-nook-poo-she-jook then placed a board-nail which I had in my hand directly over the spot of the monument, the same nail j)ointing to Shar-too, and thence on to Point Victory, where another monument had been erected by white men and found by the Innuits. I was not only deeply interested in this particular description of his, but greatly surprised, for he particularly said that the long stone on the top of that monument not only pointed in the direction of Shar-too (Cape Colvile, low land opi)osite the S. E. extreme of King William's Land) but to the place of the monument that had been erected north side of the inlet at the northwest extreme of King William's Land — that is, at Point Victory. He said that Innuits who saw the said monument south side of Inglis Bay noted what he states. After seeing the direction in which this nail pointed to the northward and westward, I drew a line in the opposite direction, to the southward and eastward, to see if it might not, if prolonged, come near to Repulse Bay, and found such to be the fact ; therefore, the pointing stone may have been intended by those who placed it there to indicate whence they had come and to what place they were bound. But this latter is of my own conjecture, founded upon what lu- nook-poo-shee-jook has told, and upon what information has been derived from some of the Repulse Bay and Ig-loo-lik natives. Before I proceed to note the remainder of the information gained in this morning's interview, I will transcribe a few lines from Dr. Eae's report of his journey of 1854: — such part of it as refers to a monument he found in the very locality pointed out as above by In nook-poo-shee-jook. Dr. Rae at the time was in Inglis Bay at the embouchure of Murchison River; when the report reads : " The weather was overcast with snow when we resumed our journey at 8.30 p. m. On the 27th of April we directed our course directly for the shore, which we reached after a shari^ walk of one and a half hours, in doing which we crossed a long stony island of some miles in extent. As by this time it was snow- S. Ex. 27 30 610 Conversations with Innuits. [Jair, i869. ing heavily, I made my men travel on the ice, the walking being better there, whilst I followed the windings of the shore, closely examining every object along the beach. "After passing several heaps of stones which had evidently covered Es- kimo caches, I came to a collection larger than any I had seen, and clearly not intended for the protection of property of any kind ; the stones, generally speak- ing, were small, and had been built in the form of a pillar, but the top had Mien down, as the Eskimo had previously given me to understand was the case. Call- ing my men to land, I sent one to trace what looked like the bed of a small river, immediately west of us, whilst the other men and myself cleared away the pile of stones in search of a document. Although no document was found, there could be no doubt in my own mind and in that of my companion that its construction was not that of the natives. My belief that we had arrived at the Castor and Pollux Eiver was confirmed when the person who had been sent to trace the ap- parent stream-bed returned with the information that it was clearly a river. * # * u Having spent ui)wards of an hour in ft-uitless search for a mem- orandum of some kind, we began to retrace our stei)S," &c. I will follow the extract with a remark or two. Taking the story of In-nook- poo-shee-jook and the preceding extract of Eae's report into consideration, it is quite certain that the monument was that of white men. Now Dease and Simpson give no account in their first report of having erected any mark there — that is, at the place where their discoveries ended — to wit, at Castor and Pollux Eiver ; but in the Narrative, Simpson does give the account of raising a monument at the extent of their discovery, viz. Castor and Pollux Eiver. They also state that they erected a monument at Cape Britannia and another at Cape Herschel. To my mind, it appears reasonable that Sir John Franklin's Expedition was not idle after getting beset as it did on the 12th Sep- tember, 184G, near King William's Land. As the spring of 1847 opened, it is altogether likely that exi)loring sledge i)arties were started off, one at least down the west side of King William's land to connect the discoveries of Sir John Eoss' expedition with that of Dease and Simpson's, while another, quite likely, pro- ceeded down the east side to connect discoveries that had been made by the same expeditions. Of course, King W^illiam's Land was found to be an island, and the whole coast of the mainland (Boothia) from Cape Porter to Castor and Pollux Eivers was most undoubtedly explored and a record of these facts made and cached, in that parti(!ular moiuiment referred to by Eae in 1854 and now by In- n()ok-])oo-slie('-j()<)k. That some party of Franklin's Expedition visited the east jniy, 1869.] Converstttions wUh Ifinuifs. 611 side of King William's Land, we have the trace in the knife at Cape Livingston which an Innuit found under some stones, as related by In-nook-poo-shee-jook in a late interview, as recorded in this book. I now proceed to note the re- mainder of the information old In-nook-poo-she-jook communicated in this morn- ing's interview. I asked him where the other monument was with a stone on its top pointing in a certain direction that he had told me about when L first met him. He said it was at Shar-too, at the same time putting his finger on the chart and moving it along down the east coast of Simpson's Peninsula till his finger rested on Point Anderson and Cape Barclay, which are at the entrance north side of Keith Bay, and then he said, " That is E-to-uki," meaning the projections Point Anderson and Cape Barclay. Then he moved his finger carefully along up the coast till he got to Points J. & E. Clouston, or Clouston Points, as they are called in the Admiralty chart, when he said that is where that monument was, and the stone on top was pointing directly towards a small island that is far out to the eastward and northward of where the monument was. He furthermore said that at the time he was there he was on his way to Eepulse Bay and he saw about there, tracks of strangers — not Innuit tracks — but then, no monument was there. A short time after, the same season, a party of Innuits passed the same place, and then there was a monument with the stone on top pointing towards the said islet in the oflflng. APPENDIX V. DEMAND FOR WHALE AND SEAL OIL IN THE MANUFACTURE OF JUTE. ^F»PEISri3IX V WHALE AND SEAL OIL IN THE MANUFACTURE OF JUTE. It is well known that the vicinity of Hudson's Bay has of late years become less and less inviting to the whaler in place of proving the more and more prof- itable, as anticipated by Hall for his New London friends. In addition to the special reasons for this, growing out of the shortness of whaling season there, the difficulty of access and of the navigation of the straits and bay, the almost entire disuse of whale-oil for lighting and other purposes will be readily remem- bered. But it will also be remembered that this disuse was scarcely foreseen by Hall in his sincere and sanguine hopes of opening up new fishing-grounds, asked for by the whalers when he went out. Yet an exhaustion of the whaling-grounds which are now visited may turn the ships back to Hudson's Bay ; nor can any one, to-day, foresee that some new appliances in the advance of the age may not awaken such large and new demands for the oil and the bone as will also justify the revisiting of Hudson's Bay and its inlets. The following statement of the whale fishery as it was in the year 1865 is taken from the Whalemen's Shipping List. " On the whole, the success of the northern fleet has not been very encourag- ing, for although oil and bone are commanding apparently high prices, yet almost every article of merchandise has advanced more than our staples, and the euor mous expense attending a whaling voyage in these times will require a much larger catch to make any favorable compensation to owners of these vessels. "Although the weather in the Arctic and Ochotsk has been very boisterous, there have been only two vessels lost the last season — the Henry Kneeland, in the Arctic, and the Mary, in the Ochotsk. " The success in the Hudson's Bay whaling did not come up to our expecta- 615 616 Whaling Interests, 1865. tions the past year. The great difficulty appears to be the short time between the breaking up of the ice and the closing up of the same, rendering the season available for whaling extremely short. Whales seem to be plenty, but they are very shy and difficult to capture. There were four arrivals from Hudson's Bay in 1864 — three into New Bedford and one iuto New London — bringing 3,454 barrels whale-oil and 55,000 pounds bone. There are now wintering in Hudson's Bay and Cumberland Inlet twelve American whalers — the Anteloi^e, Ansel Gibbs, Black Eagle, Glacier, Morning Star, and Orraj^ Taft, Cornelia, George & Mary, Helen F., Monticello, Pioneer, and Concordia, — all of which will probably arrive home next fall. " Of the American whalers from the north, twenty -three arrived at San Fran- cisco, forty-two at the Sandwich Islands, one at Monterey, and one at Panama. All the foreign whalers arrived at the Sandwich Islands. f ,0f the eighty-one whalers which sailed from home ports in 1864, nineteen were bound to the North Pacific, fifteen to Cumberland Inlet and Hudson's Bay, fi.ve to Desolation and Hurd's Island, and the balance, sperm- whaling to the At- lantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans. " From present appearances, the import of sperm-oil will be considerably less this year than in 1864. The fleet on the Pacific coast is very small, and doing very little, with one or two exceptions. The South Pacific fleet is also much re- duced, and lias done poorly. Very few ships are in the Indian Ocean. The fleet in the Atlantic has done better, although whaling has been much inter- rupted about the Western Islands, the "Two Forties" and other grounds by uncommon rough weather. The quantity of oil landed at Fayal in 1864 by whalers is 4,862 barrels sperm, 883 barrels whale ; also 1,395 pounds bone. All the oil but about 300 barrels has arrived home. Exports of sperm-oil, whale-oil, and whalebone from the United States. Year. 1864 18G3 1862 1861 1860 1859 Sperm- Whale- Whale- oil. oil. bone. Barrels. Barrels. Pounds. 45, 000 12, 000 530, 000 18, 866 11,297 279, 394 27, 976 68, 583 1,004,981 37, 547 49, 9()9 1,145,013 32, 792 13, 007 911,226 52, 207 8,179 1,707,929 Whaling Interests^ 1865. 617 Imports from 1845 to 1864. Year. 1864 1863 1862 1861 1860 1859 1858 1857 1856 1855 1854 1853 1852 1851 1850 1849 1848 1847 1846 1845 Sperm- oil. Whale- oil. Whale- bone. Barrels. 64, 372 65, 055 55, 641 68, 932 73, 708 91,408 81,941 78, 440 80,941 72, 649 76, 696 103, 077 78. 872 99, 591 92, 892 100, 944 107, 976 120, 753 95, 217 157,917 Barrels. 71, 863 62, 974 100, 478 133, 717 140, 005 190,411 182, 223 230, 941 197, 890 184, 015 319, 837 260, 114 84, 211 328, 483 200, 608 248, 492 280, 656 313, 150 207, 493 272, 730 Founds. 760, 450 488, 750 763, 500 1,038,450 1,337,650 1,923,850 1,. 540, 800 2, 058, 900 2, 592, 700 2, 707, 500 3, 445, 200 5, 652, 300 1, 2.59, 900 3, 966, 500 2, 869, 200 2,281,100 2, 003, 000 3, 341, 680 2, 276, 930 3, 167, 142 Importation of sperm-oil, whale-oil, and whalebone into the United States in 1864. Where. New Bedford Fairhaveu Westport Dartmouth Mattapoisett Sippicau District of New Bedford New Londou Nantucket Provincetown Salem Edgartown Falmouth Sag Harbor Boston New York , Total Sperm- oil. BaiTcls. 48, 172 1,278 2,241 500 881 155 Whale- oil. Barrels. 35, 883 711 32 525 4 9 Whale- bone. Pounds. 224, 250 600 700 53, 227 915 78 1, 8.50 90 153 931 1,133 3, 894 2,101 64, 372 37, 164 8,091 18 1,742 20 1, 525 232 505 9, 611 12, 955 71, 863 225, 550 149,000 2,600 15, 650 1, 700 ' 3,700 1.59, 000 202, 650 760, 450 ■ Average prices of oil per gallon and bone per pound. Sperm. 1864 $1 78 1863 1 61 1862 1 42i 1861 1 3U 1860 1 4H Whale. Bone. $1 28 $1 80 9.5J- 1 53 59J 82 44J 66 49^ 80i % 618 Markham on the Use of Oils in Making Jute. THE USE OF WHALE AND SEAL OIL IN. THE MANUFACTURE OF JUTE. The reports of Mr. C. R. Markham, one of the Secretaries of the Eoyal Geo- graphical Society, London, on the new demand for animal oils in the manufacture of the important article of jute, are in point as regards the new uses and new de- mands of the day upon the whaler. Mr. Markham's paper (Parliamentary) awakened an interest in this direction which prompted a request for statistics on the whale trade and its connection with the jute manufacture at Dundee. The full reply to these inquiries made by United States Consul McDougall, through the State and Navy Departments, is here appended as of interest in this twofold relation. [Extract from Parliamentary Paper 150 on the Moral and Material Condition of India during the year 1872-7:5, presented to Parliament by C. R. Markham, Esq., 1874.] " The most valuable special article of export from Calcutta, next to cotton, opium, and rice, is jute. The quantity of jute exported in 1828 was 364 cwt., worth £62, and the extraordinary increase that has since taken place is .due solely to the energy of the Eyots of Bengal. They found it profitable, engaged in it with alacrity, and created the trade. The large import of cheap Eussian flax into this country at first kept down the demand for jute, but this source of supply was destroyed when the Eussian war broke out in 1854, and the demand for jute became brisk. The Eyots seized the opportunity without any promiiting or assistance. " From 1858 to 1863 the average exportation of jute from Calcutta was 967,724 cwt. From 1863 to 1868 it liad risen to 2,628,110 cwt. The (juantity of raw jute exported in lS72-'73 was 7,080,912 cwt., worth £4,142,547, an increase of nearly a million hundred-weight as compared with the previous year. Thus the Ryots have created and extended an industry in forty-five years to a value of more than four and a quarter millions, without any official encouragement or aid whatever. "In 1872 there were 3,955,455 cwt. of jute imported into the United Kingdom from India and 69,000 cwt. from other countries. Of this quantity 3,200,455 cwt. are used in Great Britain, almost entirely in Dundee. The remaining 755,000 are re-exported. Fi-ance takes 148,876 cwt. direct from Calcutta and 550,500 cwt. from England; Trieste takes 9,000 cwt. direct from India; Holland receives 5,357 from India and 58,610 cwt. from England. In 1872 Germany took 77,831 ; Belgium, 31,192; Spain, 20,7«)8; nnd otiier ('0untri(\s, 16,176 cwt. by re-exporta- Markham on the Use of Oils in Making Jute. 619 titm from England. Large power-mills have also been established for spinning and weaving the fiber under European management in India. At the Barnag- piir Mills, near Calcutta, there were 17 European overseers, 4,700 natives, and the mills work up 16,000 tons of jute iu a year. There are also jute-mills at Fort Gloster, down the Hugh ; at Budge-budge, at Eishra, at Chapdani, and two at Serampur. Women and boys are employed in the spinning, winding, and sew- ing, and men in weaving; the rates of wages being for men 11 aunas a day, for women 5 aunas 5 pie, and for boys 3 annas 5 pie. The work is ijractically con- fined to making gunny bags and cloths, and the total value of the gunny-bags, cloths, twine, and rope exported in 1872-'73 was £835,911. The success of these jute-mills has been very great, and there are also many jute screw-houses and warehouses. " It is remarkable how various industries, carried on at A'ast distances, act ui)on each other. The growth of jute in Bengal led to its manufacture in Dun- dee, and this caused the revival of the whale fishery iu Bafiin's Bay. In 1872 the quantity of jute imported direct into Dundee was 1,828,614 cwt., and the bulk of the whale-oil is required by the jute manufacturers of Dundee and its neighborhood. " Thus the port of Dundee has now become the center of the whale-fishing trade, and cargoes of oil from the Arctic Eegions may be seen discharging along- side cargoes of jute from Calcutta, both being essential to the prosperity of this industry. The Dundee Chamber of Commerce has represented that an Arctic expedition is desirable, in order that new haunts of oU-beariug animals may be explored ; and if an Arctic expedition will benefit the jute manufacturers of Scot- land, it is equally important to thousands of industrious Bengal Eyots, to whom jute cultivation gives employment and the means of subsistence." report of united states consul matthew mcdougall, dundee, scotland, on the jute manufacture at dundee. "Department of State, " Washington, January 15, 1878. "Sir: Adverting to former correspondence upon the subject, I have the honor to inclose herewith, for the information of Professor Nourse, of the Naval Observatory, a copy of a dispatch of the 16th of November last, from the Con- 620 U. S. Consul McDougaWs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. sill at Dundee, iii relation to the whale tisliery and jute manufactory carried on at that place. " I have the honor to be, sir, your obedient servant, "WM. M. EVAKTS. " The Hon. E. W. Thompson, " Secretary of the Navy?'' Mr. McBouf/all to Mr. Seward, November 10, 1877. [Iiiclosnrc 1 in No. l;57.] Consulate of the United States of America, Dundee., November 16, 1877. Sir : Eeferring to your dispatch No. 72, dated the 2d ultimo, and to my acknowledgment of receipt of same per dispatch No. 136, dated the 16th of that mouth, I have now the honor to send you " statistics of the whale fishery and of the jute manufactory carried on at the port of Dundee for the years 1865 to 1875," Avhich are supplemented by flgiu-es relating to the whale fishery for the years 1876 and 1877 and to the jute trade for certain years previous to 1865 and for the years 1876 and 1877. I also give you various other tables connected with the development of these industries, and such information bearing on these subjects as I consider may be useful. WHALE-FISHING INDUSTRY. Having entered very fully into this subject in my annual report forwarded to your Department for this year, ending 30th September, I beg to state that the quoted matter under this heading is taken from that document. " The success attending the whaling-fleet belonging to this i)ort was consid- erably greater in 1876 than in 1875. All the vessels, twelve in number, prosecuted both seal and whale fishing in 1876. The only change in the course usually fol- lowed was by one vessel, which went to Labrador instead of Greenland, with the other ships. The total catch at the seal-fishing was in 1876 57,776 seals, yield- ing 625 tons of oil. Seal-oil last year was valued at £32 i)er ton, and the aver- age price for skins was 6s. Taking the 625 tons of oil at £32 gives £20,000, and 57,776 skins at 6.s'. each i)roduces the sum of £17,332 16s.; so that the value of the seal-fishing in 1876 was £37,332 16s. Only one vessel returned clean from the seal-fishing. The total catch at the whale-fishing was in 1876 64 whales, yielding 824 TJ. S. Consul McDongaW s Beport on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 62 1 tons oil and 45 tons of bone. The selling price of whale-oil in 1876 was £35 per ton; and although as high as £1,200 per ton was got for bone, £800 was the average price. The 824 tons of oil f)roduced £28,840 and the 45 tons of bone £36,000; total for the whale-fishing, £64,840; total for the seal-fishing, £37,332 16s. ; total for both fishings, £102,172 16s. Of conrse from this sum falls to be deducted the expenses of the fleet, which must necessarily be very heavy. In 1875 the value of the seal-fishing was computed at £27,026 7s. Gd. and the whale-fishing at £50,325; total for both fishings, £77,351 7s. 6(1. This shows an increase in favor of 1876 in the seal-fishing of £10,306 8s. 6(1. and in the whale- fishing of £14,515 ; total increase in both fishings for 1870, £24,821 8s. 6(7." " This year two vessels went to the seal-fishing in Labrador compared with one in 1876 ; and they were so successful, that the Dundee Seal and Whale Fishing- Company have resolved to form a branch establishment at Newfoundland, and next spring two of their largest and most powerful screw-steamers, instead of going to Greenland, will be dispatched to the Newfoundland seal-fishing. The company has acquired a piece of ground, on which they are erecting the neces- sary buildings for carrying on the work connected witb the fishing, including boiling-house, &c. There being no docks for the accommodation of the vessels, the company is constructing a wharf in close proximity to its premises, so that the steamers will be enabled to discharge their catches almost at tlie doors of the establishment. With the two steamers sent out by another company here (those which went this year) this will now make four Dundee vessels that will prosecute the Newfoundland seal-fishing next sjiring. The effect of this change will of course be to give the remainder of the Dundee vessels gotug to Greenland a bet- ter chance of success, and it is hoped the results will prove satisfactory to all concerned. " As all the vessels of the Dundee whale fleet have now arrived from the New- foundland and Greenland seal and whale fisheries for the year, I am able to give you the number of seals and whales caught and other particulars. The whole of the vessels (how thirteen in number) Avent both to the seal and whale fishing this year, two going to Newfoundland instead of to Greenland with the other ships. The number of seals caught in Newfoundland (Labrador) this year was for two vessels 46,600 seals, yielding 750 tons oil ; last year one vessel, 4,000 seals, yielding 47 tons oil ; increase in 1877, 42,600 seals, 703 tons oil. ''The number of seals caught in Greenland this year was for eleven vessels, 29,400 seals, yielding 342 tons oil ; last year, for eleven vessels, 53,776 seals, yield- ing 578 tons oil ; decrease in 1877, 24,376 seals, 236 tons oil. 622 U. S. Consul McBougalVs Report on Oils and Jute in Dundee. "The number of seals caught in Newfoundland (Labrador), as above, in 1877, 46,600 seals yielding 750 tons oU; in Greenland, 29,400 seals, yielding 342 tons oil ; total, 76,000 seals, 1,092 tons oil. Total in 1876, 57,776 seals, 625 tons oil. Increase in 1877, 18,224 seals, 467 tons oil. "At present seal-oil is valued at £32 per ton, while the skins average 5s. each. Calculating the 1,092 tons of oil got this year at £32 gives £34,944, and 76,000 skins at 5s. each yield £19,000; so that the total value of the seal-fishing this year is £53,944. Last year the total value of the catch at the seal-fishing was estimated at £37,332 16s. Increase in 1877, £16,611 4s. "Unfortunately five of the eleven vessels that went to the Greenland seal- fishing this year returned clean. But at the whale-fishing there was no such unlucky experience. The thirteen vessels brought from the Greenland whale-fishing this year 81 black whales, yielding 835 tons oil and 42^ tons of bone, and 935 white whales, yielding 120 tons oil ; total, 1,016 whales, yielding 955 tons oil and 42 J tons of bone. "In 1876 the catch was 64 black whales, yielding 824 tons oil and 45 tons of bone. Increase in 1877, 17 black whales, 935 white whales, and 131 tons oil. De- crease in bone in 1877, 2J tons. "At present the selling price of whale-oil is £35 per ton, and bone may be taken at the price £1,400 per ton. The value of 955 tons oil at the price given would be £33,425, and the 42i tons of bone would give £59,500. Total value of the whale-fishing for 1877, £92,925. The total value of the whale-fishing for 1876 was £64,840, making an increase in 1877 of £28,085. " Total value of the seal-fishing in 1877, £53,944; total value of the whale fishing in 1877, £92,925; total for both fishings 1877, £146,869 (of which sum the expense of the fleet has to be deducted). Total for both fishings in 1876, £102,172 16s. Increase on both fishings in 1877, £44,696 4s. "This gratifying result, it will be seen, is greatly due to the remarkable siic- cess of the two vessels which went to the Newfoundland (Labrador) seal fishing this year. "The following is a very complete statement, showing the produce of British vessels from 1865 to 1876, inclusive, at the Davis Straits and Greenland seal and whale fishing. I also include the number of seals and whales caught this year at Greenland and Labrador by the Dundee vessels." U. S. Consul McDougalVs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 623 Statement. i Year. Ports. Vessels. Seals. Whales. 1865 PeterLead ....do Dundee Kirkcaldy Hull ....do Frazerburgh Aberdeen 1866 Peterbead ....do Dundee , Hull ....do Frazerburgh Aberdeen 1867 Peterhead ....do Dundee Hull Frazerburgh Aberdeen 1868 Dundee ....do Peterhead ....do Frazerburgh Aberdeen Hull 1869 Dundee Peterhead ....do Aberdeen Hull 1870 Dundee Peterhead ....do Aberdeen 1871 Dundee Peterhead ....do 1872 Dundee Peterhead ....do . 1873 Dundee ....do Peterhead 1874 Dundee Peterhead ....do 1875 Dundee Peterhead ....do 1876 Dundee Peterhead ....do 1877 Dundee (Greenland and Newfoundland). 10 sailers 3 steamers . . . 7 steamers . . . 1 sailer 1 sailer 1 steamer 2 sailers 1 sailer 9 sailers 3 steamf^rs . . . 11 steamers .. 1 steamer 1 sailer 2 sailers 1 sailer 8 sailers 4 steamers . . 12 steamers . 1 steamer . . 2 sailers 1 sailer 13 steamers . 1 sailer 8 sailers 4 steamers . . 2 sailers 1 sailer I steamer... II steamers . 9 sailers 4 steamers . . 1 sailer 1 steamer . . . 10 steamers . 7 sailers 4 steamers- . I sailer 10 steamers . (5 sailers 5 steamers- . II steamers . 5 sailers 6 steamers. . 11 steamers. 1 sailer 7 steamers. . 3 sailers 11 steamers. 5 steamers . . 3 sailers 12 steamers . 6 steamers. . 2 sailers 12 steamers. 5 steamers . . 3 sailers 13 steamers - 17,291 10,248 64, 041 5 6 50 Seal- oU. Whale- oil. Whale- bone. Tons. Tons. 195 71 113 84 734 547 5 I. 12,219 156 40 16, 188 16, 632 48, 418 31 9 30 187 210 674 299 100 333 16 4,571 62 13,208 21, 368 53, 822 9 16 4 2 2 160 287 619 100 151 29 22 26 8,217 16, 458 13, 774 18, 038 3,986 "230 44, 424 8,868 16, 021 107 1 *16 4 124 199 165 228 32 6 < 9 t8 4 3 458 125 256 856 7 262 23 80 118 118 25 87, 768 8,373 32, 087 1 61 18 64, 497 17, 047 34, 837 40. 391 1,851 8, 442 25, 480 4,131 37, 827 6,784 44,087 8,113 615 44,445 27, 198 133 11 8 105 9 24 158 862 132 487 2 12 190 57, 776 4,180 371 76, 000 79 t6 13 64 $13 5 1181 652 194 481 410 . 25 129 262 46 754 73 575 195 2 418 3.55 734 125 1,163 105 80 969 131 293 1,303 625 75 5 1,092 16 110 ,419 95 148 706 113 156 824 222 69 955 Cwts. 650 60 373 "46' 120 20 40 944 5 90 17 108 128 49 25 5 871 144 5 91 1,313 155 76 1,032 132 292 1,344 16 115 1,436 91 153 729 77 164 900 138 94 850 * And 645 white. t And 859 white. t And 360 white. 5 And 700 white. II And 935 white. 624 U. 8. Consul McDoiigalVs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. " It will be observed fi-om the above statement that the whole of the British Vessels engaged in the Davis Straits and Greenland seal and whale fisheries now belong to this Consular district, and of these the largest number belong to Dun- dee, and are all steamers ; indeed, sailing-vessels are quite the exception, Peter- head being the only port that has two or three old sailing-ships which go to Greenland, and it is i^iedicted that in the course of a year or two these will either be turned into screw-steamers or laid aside for steam-vessels." 2. JUTE TRADE. " The staple industry of Dundee and neighborhood is the manufacture of jute fabrics, chiefly of a coarse kind, such as double wrap-bagging, sacking, burlaps, &c. The bulk of the jute used here is turned into this class of goods, or yarns suitable to make the same (these yarns being mainly exported to the European Continental factories, to be there woven into cloth), and the balance into a great variety of other stuffs of a finer description, called duck-padding, canvas, carpets, hearth-rugs, matting, &c. "The introduction of jute into Dundee with the view to its manufacture was in 1823 or early in 1824 ; but the first experiments made with it were not satis- factory. Some years elapsed before any further attempts were tried to manii)u- late the fiber. About the beginning of 1832 repeated efforts were made to over- come the difficulties in spinning jute by machinery, and by perseverance, skill, and improved machinery these obstacles were successfully surmounted, and now jute manufacturing has risen to be the principal business in this town, and has also been a source of great wealth to this community. " The first noticeable impetus given to the jute trade was caused by the Eussian war in 1854. The belligerents on both sides jconsumed vast quantities of coarse linens. This, together with the supply of flax from that country being cut off, created a strong demand for jute material to take the place of that for- merly made from flax. The jute trade still retains in a great measure the ad- vantage it gained at this time, jute fabrics, by their cheapness and strength, having permanently supplanted various kinds of flax-cloth, which it was only considered they would substitute in the emergency. The profits then realized stimulated enterprise very much, and led to the erection of new works in Dundee for spinning and weaving jute exclusively by power, and to substantial additions to those works already in existence. " The following tables show how many jute factories there were in the United Kingdom in 1862, with the number of spindles, power-looms, amount of moving- U. S Consul McDougaWs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 625 power, and number of persons employed. It will be observed that most of these are in Dundee and district : Jute Factories in 1862 in the under-noted countries. Country. County. 1 o u -a I) a ■ft CO i u o Amount of mov- ing power. ti a« Steam. Water. Englaud... Dorset 1 1 1 1 320 60 240 12 20 18 ■ 12 33 31 27 16 Lancaster Middlesex Total .. . Surrey 4 AOM 62 107 Scotland... Total.... Forfar (Dundee and district). Lanark Renfrew 24 2 1 28,094 1,000 1,444 406 48 100 1,494 1.53 90 20 46' 4,828 216 374 27 30, 538 554 1,737 60 5,418 Ireland Total.... Antrim 3 2 1,824 194 55 385 57 Down 5 1,824 249 442 Summary. England 4 27 5 620 30, 538 1,824 ""'554' 62 1,737 249 60" 107 5,418 442 Scotland Ireland Total 3G 32, 982 554 2,048 60 5, 967 The majority of the workers in jute factories are females, some boys ; and a few men to act as overseers, managers, and mechanics are also employed. The remarkable progress the trade made from 1838 to 1860 is exhibited by the following note of the imports of jute in three years into Dundee. It will be noticed that in 1855, the year after the outbreak of the Eussian war, the increase is extraordinary, and that the subsequent years show also a steady increase. S. Ex. 27 40 626 U. S. Consul McDougalVs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. Jute imported into Dundee. Years. By sea. By rail. Total. 1838 Tons. 1,136 2, 411 2,745 2,661 2, 740 4,858 5,515 8,313 9,230 6,966 8,885 7,946 6, 335 7,386 9,874 8,165 6,224 12, 333 16, 948 8,158 13, 828 21, 683 22, 829 Tons. Tons. 1839 1840 1841 1842 1843 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 20 4, 196 7,745 9, 542 7,109 7, 235 10, 366 13,561 14,083 16, 184 16, 258 16,722 14, 136 8,905 12, 142 14, 080 16, 928 16, 983 15, 400 16, 590 25, 894 31,031 24, 342 30, 086 38, 405 36,965 1849 1850 1851 1852 1853 1854 1855 1856 1857 1858 1859 1860 "The enormous consumption of coarse goods by both armies in the American war, 1861-'65, gave the next market stimulus to the jute trade. The i^riccs ob- tained during this warfor jute goods were unprecedented in the history of the trade, and they have never since been so high, and those engaged in the trade during this period were thus enabled to amass handsome fortunes. The prosperity gave the trade a firm footing in Dundee, and induced spinners and manufacturers to build more new works and to go on making additions to the old ones. I cannot give you the exact number of jute factories, &c., in operation at the end of the American war, but the next statement proves that there must have been a most favorable increase of jute machinery in these few years, when it is understood that the greater proportion of the total increase here shown refers to the jute trade, and almost solely in this locality." U. S. Consul McBougaWs Eeport on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 627 Return ofJiajc,jut€, and hemp factories in Scotland, September, 1867. Districts. Number o f works. — a o a o '^ ft §1' Forfarshire (Dundee and district) 108 51 17 5 1 7,715 2,691 847 74 785 278, 564 74, 058 21,034 2,818 16,814 11,329 5, 038 1,348 46, 571 11,579 3,740 120 2, 175 Fifeshire . Perthshire . . ... KiucardineshLre Aberdeen 428 Total Other parts of Scotland 182 15 12, 112 2, 840 393, 918 93,661 18, 143 1,774 64, 185 13, 010 Grand total 197 192 14, 952 487, 579 312, 239 19, 917 8, 520 77, 195 39, 562 Grand total in 1862 Increase 5 175, 340 11,397 37,033 "After the American war terrninated the trade returned more to its normal condition, but still kept on flourishing to 1873 on account of general trade through- out the world being vigorous. So rapid had been the advancement of the trade in the years 1862 to 1873, that in this last year it was estimated there were upward of 100 jute factories in Dundee and immediate vicinity, employing from 60,000 to 65,000 hands. I here give a table of the amount of the horse-power in the flax, hemp, and jute mills and factories in Dundee alone in the years stated. The jute- works may be credited with a large share of the increase shown from the years 1860 to 1874 : Horse-power of mills and factories in Dundee. Horse- power. In 1808 63 In 1820 Ill Iul832 805 In 1860 4,782 In 1867 7,032 In 1874 10,000 " Up to 1873 most of the jute consumed in the United Kingdom was in and around Dundee, but the manufacture had now begun to extend in different places in this country, on the Continent of Europe, and more especially in Calcutta and other parts of India. This competition (particularly that of Calcutta), combined Avith the financial panic in the United States in the autumn of 1873, gave the trade a severe check, and it has continued very depressed ever since, with prices 628 U. S Consul McDougaWs Beport on Oils and Jute at Dundee. at the lowest ijoint, and in the principal portion of the trade unquestionably unremunerative. "It is affirmed that had it not been for the large sums accumulated by the manufacturers in the ten years of good trade previous to 1873, great commercial disaster must have been the inevitable consequence of the very unprofitable state of the trade here during the last three or four years, "Among those manufacturers "who entered into the trade in 1873-'74, when trade was beginning to decline, and who consequently did not reap any of the good profits yielded in former years, there have been many failures. I have again to quote from my annual report for this year : " So bad has the trade been considered, that many manufacturers have found it more for their interests to close their works entirely than to go on making goods at an absoliate loss. " The chief local newspaper says there are at present standing idle in Dun- dee and district 12 mills and factories employing 3,400 hands, 7 mills employing 1,770 hands, 4 factories employing 070 hands. Total, 23 mills and factories and 5,840 hands. " Seven of these works have been closed through the suspension of the firms, but the majority have been stopped voluntarily, by the owners wishing to with- draw from losing concerns and others from the want of orders for the special class of goods manufactured by them. A number of these works ceased working six months ago ; some as far back as the end of 1876. Nearly the whole of the works still in operation are running with fewer hands than at this time last year ; one firm alone having 600 less." " So that the number of mills and factories in Dundee and district is now approximated at from 70 to 80, employing from 50,000 to 60,000 hands making jute goods. "Without doubt the great production of jute fabrics in Calcutta for the last two or three years has been the main cause of the extreme depression of the trade here. At any rate, Calcutta is now the most powerful competitor with Dundee, as three or four of the largest jute- works in other parts of the United Kingdom have recently stopped working, and those in other towns throughout the country are working with less hands, thus reducing the competition in this country with Dun- dee to a minimum. " Calcutta is represented as having 20 mills, 4,780 looms; 80 per cent, of the spindles and looms are on double-warp bagging and sacking and 20 per cent, on Ilessian or burlap cloth. These figures show that Calcutta is a formidable rival U. S. Consul McDougalVs Beport on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 629 to Dundee in the manufacture of the coarse stuffs on the making of which this town has always relied. An immense quantity of this quality of cloth is produced in this locality, three-fifths of the mills and factories having machinery only adapted for spinning the yarus for and weaving this cloth." The Calcutta manufacturers are in the mean time underselhng Dundee in the Australian, Egyptian, and Californian markets. Of the last-named place, by far the most imi>ortant of the three, Dundee once had the monopoly of the business. The total value of the jute-bags exported there, declared to at this consulate, was, for the four quarters of the years ending 30th September, 1875, 187G, and 3877, as follows : Quarter ending — Total for the year. December 31. March 31. June 30. September 30. 1875 1876 .$335,440 19 23, 053 24 1137, 960 78 94,610 65 $;?,686 01 267, 886 44 $11,586 67 39, 008 90 $488, 673 65 424, 559 23 Increase 264,200 43 27,422 23 Decrease 1876 1877 312, 385 95 43,350 13 64, 114 42 . 23, 053 24 21,450 71 94, 610 65 6,229 23 287, 886 44 2, 835 33 39, 008 90 1,350 99 424, 559 23 31, 872 28 Iiicrease Decrease Decrease in 1876 1,590 53 83,381 42 265,051 11 37,657 91 392, 686 97 64,114 42 Total decrease in t/he two vears 1876 and 1877.. 456,801 39 " This demonstrates that at the moment Dundee has entirely lost control of this splendid outlet for its goods. Of course some allowance for this almost incred- ible decrease may be attributed to the encouragement the San Francisco sack- sowers have in the difference of 10 per cent, in the tariff in favor of burlaps, which they make into bags on the spot. But even in this way Dundee is not compen- sated for the serious loss (as shown by this statement) it has sustained, as the bag- makers get large parcels of the cloth they use from Calcutta, which source, it is beyond question, must now be supplying California, Oregon, and the Western States with millions of bags and thousands of i)ieces of cloth yearly which for- merly came from this quarter." To give an idea of the connection Dundee has with the United States in the jute trade, I submit an " extract of my detailed statement of exports from this Consular district to the United States for the four quarters of the year ending 630 U. S Consul McBougaWs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 30th September, 1877," which shows a marked decrease during that period. I have also added the decrease for 1876, which makes an enormous falling-oif in just two years. I may mention that four-fifths of the total valuation is for jute goods of every sort, but generally of a coarse quality. Abstract. Quarter ending — Total for tlie year. December 31. March 31. June 30. September 30. Total at Dundee for 1877 Total at Aberdeen for 1877 $1,037,811 87 49, 169 40 $1, 175, 239 41 30, 506 93 $1,154,566 08 38,134 89 |1, 302, 977 08 37, 182 46 $4,670,594 44 154, 993 68 Total from district for 1877 Total from district for 1876 1,083,981 27 1,101,294 35 1,205,746 34 1,459,987 48 1,192,700 97 1,782,689 49 1, 340, 159 54 1, 129, 172 38 4,825,588 12 5, 473, 143 70 Increase 210,987 16 ' 647,555 58 526,769 67 Decrease 14,313 08 254,241 14 589, 988 52 Decrease in 187 6 Total decrease in the two vears 1876 niid 187^ 1,174,325 25 " I have also, at this point, to note the fact that a large proportion of the total value of these exports is for goods (burlaps principally) sent to the United States on consignment instead of on actual sale. This has come about by the American firms who are represented here by their own houses or agents declining to purchase. Maniifacturers have thereby been compelled to ship their merchan- dise themselves to keep their establishments moving and from accpiiriug stock. Business being thus forced has had a disastrous effect on prices in the United States, and the account sales have advised in these cases a wide discrepancy between the prices realized and the actual cost thereof" By again tmuiug to the imijortatioii of jute into Dundee from 1861 to 1877 (former statement left off at 18G0) a glance at the underuoted statement will show how the trade has developed in these years. U. S Consul 3IcDougalVs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 631 Total quantity of jute imported into Dtindee. te • 2? il h o d . _P o B O O Eail way (Liver- pool and Glas- gow). o 1861 Tms. 468 402 6,997 12, 173 11,425 4,507 10, 156 5,437 27,844 30, 537 66, 872 91, 276 102, 133 81, 746 92, 844 95, 715 72, 120 Tons. 17, 456 19, 423 25, 278 23, 371 43, 912 28,784 36, 546 35, 069 36, 347 43, 341 27, 736 32, 390 37, 790 33, 190 20, 067 21, 824 15, 921 Tons. 17, 792 18, 452 14,710 20, 860 16, 365 18, 888 16,970 17, 968 18, 188 7,862 8,236 3, 524 3, 227 2, 439 1,019 1, 032 114 Tons. 35, 716 38,277 46, 983 56, 404 71, 702 52, 179 63, 672 58, 474 82, 379 81, 740 102, 844 127, 190 143, 150 117, 375 113,930 118, 571 88, 155 1862 1863 . . . 1864 . 1865 1866 1867 1868 1869 1870 1871 1872 1873 1874 1875 1876 1877 (from 1st January to 31st October, 1877) This statement shows that the jute imported into Dundee reached the maxi- mum in 1873. It also shows that the quantity brought direct from Calcutta is considerably under the amount brought iu 1873, in the years 1874, 1875, and 1876. The total arrivals of vessels from Calcutta at Dundee from the 1st January to 1st October, of this year (1877), were 44 ships, bringing 60,171 tons jute, equal to 401,802 bales. The arrivals during the same period in 1876 were 57 ships, bring- ing 78,921 tons jute, equal to 527,046 bales, exhibiting a falling off on the nine mouths' arrivals of 13 ships, bringing 18,750 tons jute, equal to 125,244 bales. Nor is there any prospect of the decrease being made up during the three months of the year still to run. From latest advices, I find that there are at sea bound to Dundee 3 jute vessels of 4,311 tons, and loading or chartered at Calcutta 23 of 31,324 tons. The whole of the vessels at sea are likely to arrive before December 31. Of the ships chartered or loading, 3 steamships of 3,847 register tons and 5,995 tons gross, will also iu all probability arrive before the close of the year. The total jirobable arrivals direct from Calcutta for 1877 may, therefore, be set down at 50 ships of 08,329 tons register. Taking the vessels arrived, sailed, and chartered, and comparing them with last year, they stand thus : 1876, 90 ships of 126,139 tons ; 1877, 70 ships of 95,806 632 U. S. Consul McBougaWs Beport on Oils and Jute at Dundee. tons ; decrease, 20 ships of 30,333 tons. This not only speaks of a bad current year, but promises very poorly for 1878. It is impossible to get the total yards of jute manufactures or the number of jute bags made that are sent from Dundee, the returns of the Harbor Board and Eailway comi^anies beiug so kept that they only show the total of all manufac- tures, including linen and jute manufactures of every kind, and yarns, bags, &c. But the extent and importance of the trade can be judged from the following tables, compiled by me from the British Board of Trade returns and other official statements. The year 1854 is the tirst year jute is given as an article of import into the United Kingdom in the above-mentioned returns. Before that time it was included among " Hemp and other like substances." The quantity of jute exported was not given till 1861. For comparison, I give the quantity of jute imported into Dundee, the amounts being the same as in the preceding tables, but only changed into hundredweights to suit these Tables. 1854. 1855. 1856. Quantity. Computed real value. Quantity. Computed real value. Quantity. Computed real value. Total quantity and value of the jute im- ported into the United Kingdom Total quantity of j ute imported into Dun- dee, consumed there and in the district. Balance left for consumption elsewhere Cwts. 481, 733 331, 800 £553, 993 CwU. 539, 297 517, 880 £447, 107 Cwts. 731, 093 62 ', 020 £012, 290 149, 933 21, 417 110, 473 1857. 1858. Quantity. Computed real value. Quantity. Computed real value. Total quantity and value of the jute imported into the United Cwts. 018, 833 48G, 840 £04G, 350 CwU. 738, 085 601, 720 £019, 008 Total (juantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there and in the district Bal.ance left for consumption elsewhere < 131, 993 136, 305 1859. 1860. Qutmtity. Computed real value. Q"-tity. ^z^:iii Total quantity and value of the jute im Kinjidoni . . ported into the United Cwts. 1, 001, 288 708 100 £790, 383 Cw's. 810, 787 73fl, 300 £600, 913 Total quantity of jute imported into 13 and in the district undee, consumed there Balance left fur consumption olsc-wlicn^ i )r c\port 293, 188 77, 487 1 U. S Consul McDougaWs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 633 Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United Kingdom Total quantity and value of jnte exported from the United Kingdom Leaving in the United Kingdom Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there and in the district Balance left for consumption in other places of the United Kingdom, or for export next year 1861. Quantity. Comjnvted Cwts. 904, 092 86, 971 817, 121 714, 320 102, 801 £709, 961 68, 490 1862. Quantity. C-fue.^l Cwts. 963, 774 114, 399 £930,634 110, 580 641, 471 849, 375 705, 540 820, 048 83, 835 Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United Kingdom Total quantity and valne of jute exported from the United Kingdom Leaving in the United Kingdom Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there and in the district Balance left for consumption in other places of the United Kingdom, or for export next year 1863. Quantity. Computed CwU. 1, 223, 033 165, 634 1, 057, 399 939, 660 117, 739 £1, 525, 996 206, 352 1,319,644 1864. Quantity. Comj,uted Cwts. 2, 024, 537 270, 090 1, 754, 447 1, 128, 080 £2, 192, 498 292, 598 1, 899, 900 626, 367 1865. Quantity. ^Zfue'"" Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United Kingdom Total quantity aud value of jute exported from the United Kingdom Leaving in the United Kingdom Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there and in the district Cwts. 2, 108, 942 417, 981 1, 690, 961 1, 434, 040 Balance left for consumption in other places of the United Kingdom, or for export next year 256, 921 £1, 774, 992 351, 801 1866. Quantity. Com^p^uted Cwts. 1, 625, 903 416, 352 £1, 476, 244 378,186 1, 423, 191 1, 209, 551 1, 098, 058 1,043,580 165, 971 Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United Kingdom Total quantity and value of jute exported from the United Kingdom 1867. Quantity. Computed Cwts. 1, 582, 611 366, 793 Leaving iu the United Kingdom Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there and iu th(^ district 1, 215, 818 1, 273, 440 Balance left for consumption in other places of the United Kingdom, or for export next year *57, 622 £1,414,321 327, 057 1868. Quantity. Computed Cwts. 2, 182, 521 415,206 1, 087, 264 1, 707, 255 1,169,480 597, 775 £1, 936, 230 368, 549 1, 5G7, 681 * Taken from previous year's stock left. 634 U. S. Consul McDougaWs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 1869. 1870. Quantity. Computed value. Quantity. Computed value. Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United Kingdom Total quantity and value of jute exported from the United Kingdom . ...... Cwts. 2, 467, 817 413, 952 S.2, 143, 100 3.18 7.->8 Cwts. 2, 370, 690 425, 712 S.2, 326, 910 416, 843 Leavin'' in the United Kingdom * 2, 053, 805 1, 647, 580 1, 784, 342 1, 950, 978 1, 634, 800 1, 910, 067 Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there and in the district . . Balance left for consumption in other places of the United "Kin^'loni^ nr for Axpnrt jlOTt ye.ar 406, 285 316, 178 1871. 1872. Quantity. Computed value. Quiintity. Declared value. Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United Cwts. 3, 454, 120 575, 177 £3, 729, 735 650, 431 Cwts. 4, 041, 018 755, 120 £3. 954, 698 724, 659 Total quantity and value of jute exported from the United Kino'dom Leaving in the United Kingdom Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there 2, 878, 943 2, 056, 880 3, 079, 304 3, 285, 898 2, 543, 800 3, 230, 039 Balance left for consumption in other places of the United 7\in<^'lf^m or tor i^'vpnrt Tievt yppr 822, 063 742, 098 1873. 1874. Quantity. Declared value. Quantity. Declared valiio. Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United Kingdom Total quantity and value of jute exported from the United Cii-ts. 4, 624, 918 790, 344 £3, 619, 989 649, 880 CwU. 4, 270, 164 71C, 631 £3, 553, 179 603, 619 Leaving in the United Kingdom Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there and in the district 3, 834, 574 2, 863, 000 2, 970, 109 3, 553, 533 2, 347, 500 2, 949, 560 Balance left for consumption in other places of the United Tv ipgdoTii, Ol' for OTnort. yievt yen^' 971, 574 1, 206, f 33 1875. 1876. Quantity. Declared value. Quantity. Decliired value. Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United Cwts. 3,410,617 £2,575,512 1, 050, 389 798, 148 CwU. 3,825,259 933, 667 £2, 804, 597 704, 904 Total "quantity and value of juto exported from the United Kingdom Leaving in the United Kingdcmi 2 366 228 1.777.366 2,891,592 2, 371, 420 2, 099, 693 Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there and in the district 2, 278, 600 Balance left for consumption in other places of the United Kingdom, or for export next year . .. 87, 628 520, 172 TJ 8. Consul McDougaWs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 635 Quantity and value of Jute manufactures exported from the United Kingdom. Year. 1861. 1862. Yarn. Quautity. Pounds. 7, 047, 217 G, G15, 882 1863 7,391,327 1864 I 5,497,603 1865. 4,944,230 1866 7,761, .391 1867 7,520,911 1868 8,108.101 1869 8,041,082 1870 12,669,948 1871 13,710,957 1872 12,715,969 1873 12,263,805 1874 15,724,988 1875 15,942,618 1876 16,709.239 Declai'ed value. £85,126 96, 152 154,618 114,503 82, 141 128, 704 117, 028 126, 045 126, 691 196, 465 262, 057 261,239 206, 521 245, 784 225, 836 226, 813 Mauufactures. Quail tit j\ Yards. 6, 519, 253 6, 959, 189 11, 034, 412 13, 910, 717 15, 400, 459 19, 394, 926 26, 745, 187 43,081,332 50, l'.i7, 853 51,920,808 62, 310, 463 84, 452, 457 95, 935, 108 112,810,415 101,105,579 120, 813, 966 Declared value. £127,031 133, 149 243, 379 356,764 311,540 361,857 455, 396 706, 936 742, 801 789, 6.57 1,026,759 1,486,484 1,590,850 1,679,766 1,404,997 1,5.58,256 Bags. Quantity. Declared value. Dozens. 642, 848 802, 095 894. 436 971,871 1,137,862 1,290,677 1,675,321 2, 144, 593 2, 375, 865 2, 477, 334 2, 897, 676 3, 685, 092 4,430,418 4,700,759 3, 680, 073 4,020,211 £307, 583 388, 724 555, 282 749, 422 696, 291 681,445 751,369 860, 543 946, 378 913, 642 1,206,621 1,627,026 1,913,153 1,750,002 1,264,308 1,211,728 By far the largest proportion of these exports are mauufactured in Dundee and district, and it must be remembered that these figures do not include the home-trade consurajition, which is very large indeed. The next table gives an estimate of the jute consumption in manufacture in Dundee alone in the years named : Ton.s. In 1836 300 In 184G 9, 200 In 1856 31, 000 In 1866 50,000 In 1873 . . 139, 793 The great expan.sion of the jute trade has benefited the varied interests of this town, the harbor finances being considerably augmented within the last ten years by the direct importation of jute during that period. The increased rev- enue thus derived has i^laced the Harbor-Commissioners in a position to expend a large amount of money in making the docks and the entrance thereto suitable for the entry of the largest vessels into this port, and in building warehou.ses and providing every facility for the discharge of the jute cargoes ; in fact, every- thing has been done to encourage this direct trade with India. The statement below furnishes evidence that the improvements on the harbor and the am])le f)36 U. S. Consul McDougaWs Beport on Oils and Jute at Dundee. dock accommodation which has been opened up in late years have had a pow- erful influence in fostering the direct importation of jute, which took a sudden start in 1863, the effect indubitably of the healthy state of the trade in that year. I may mention here that all the American vessels that come into this port bring jute cargoes : Jute vessels arrived in Dundee, Year. Number of vessels. Registered tonnage. Bales. 1860 1 1 1 8 15 10 5 10 5 28 26 57 77 81 62 62 63 44 850 1861. 576 576 7,778 12, 735 11,489 4,990 11,080 5, 900 £9. 552 30, 317 69, 690 94, 450 101,446 77,401 83, 252 87, 540 60, 171 1862 1803 1864 1865 1866 1867 1868 1869 1870 207, 208 473, 097 649, 677 709, 871 523, 197 573, 230 582, 249 401,802 1871 1872 1873 1874 1875 1870 1877 (to September 3) As showing how much the harbor revenue has increased by the wise policy referred to adopted by the commissioners, I submit tliis list : Harbor dues of Dundee, Scotland. In 1821 £6,000 In 1841 18,443 In 1858 25,420 In 1868 32,321 In 1873 44,000 In 1875 45,234 The next two statements show the increase in ])opulation and value rent of real property in Dundee in the years given, chiefly the result of the great develop- ment of the jute trade : U. S. Consul McDougalVs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 637 The facts and figures I have given clearly indicate that the jute trade within the last thirtj^ or forty years has advanced to be a most valuable branch of in- dustry in this country, and also that this trade has contributed not a little to the commercial importance of the nation. It has been shown that the trade has been stagnant here for the past three years, but it is thought at last the prospects of the trade are beginning to look brighter ; prices Jire better and firm, inquiries having been more active during the last month. It is averred, however, that this improvement is not tangible, but created by speculation on the market, and that this fictitious demand will likely soon pass over and leave the business as hfeless as before. This belief, however, is not universal, as one small jute work which has been stopped has been started again last week, and it is rumored that portions of the idle machinery in the jute factories that are working have been recently set agoing. Advices from America of the restoration of mercantile confidence and sound trade, it is believed, will be the commencement of good trade for Dnndee, seeing the connection it has with the United States, and this is adduced as a reason for setting the closed works and idle machinery again in motion. I trust, for the mutual welfare of both countries, these hopes may be fully realized. I am, sir, your obedient servant, MATTHEW McDOUGALL, Consul. Hon. F. W. Seward, Assistant Secretary of State, Washington, D. G. Il^DEX. » r Agloo, seal, 137, 151, 152, 169. Af,-Joo-l-a (Crozier), 108, 255, 257, 397, 406, 415, 420,589-594,606. Ak-koo-lee (Committee Bay), sea of, 2.52, 264, 316, 383. Allen, William. Lelter to Thomas Penn for the Philadelphia Arctic Exploration of 17.52, xli, xlii. American Expeditions for the Northwest Pas- sage, xxxix-xlv ; for the relief of Franklin, xiii, xxxi, xxxiv. Amherst Island visited, 349. Amitoke, Hall's visit to, 299. Amusements, Innnit, 95, 96, 218. Angell, B., invites Hall to lecture, 24. Ankooting practiced, 63, 82, 92, 101, 102, 112, 117, 144, 188, 242-244, 248, 260, 282, 303, 363, 591, 601. Andromeda Tetragona, 65, 178, 426. Antoine hired hy Hall, 325; discharged, 362. Anthony, Hon. H. B., invites Hallto lecture, 24. Ar-cla, a strange animal reported, 105. Arctic authorities. Tables of 1818-1860, xlvi-1. Argo, the voyages of, in 17,53 and 1754, xxxix- xliii. Ar-mou, 63, 64, 84, 99, 105, 142, 208, 214, 224 ; his map, 225; 238. Jr-ioo-a, 63, 86, 99, 101, 105, 156, 167; his death, 215. Ar-tung-iin, 301; hung by his son, 365; conver- sations with, 598-605. Ar-row-tars, 135. Augusta Island, 388. Auroras, 83, 131, 167, 204, 229-233, 366. Bache, A. D., Superintendent U. S. Coast Sur- vey. Letter to Hall quoted, 35; 41. Bafltin's, W., discoveries discredited, xxxviii. Baker, Captain, 319. Barrow, Sir John, on the value of Arctic ex- plorations, xxxvi. Barrow's, Mr. .John, letter to Hall, 13. Bayne, Peter, hired by Hall, 314; 325. Bartlett, Hon. .J. E., invites Hall to lecture, 24. Beacon Hill, records deposited at, 237, 268, 280, 287, 318, 325, 424. Bears, Polar, captured, CO-55, 76 ; tracks of, 89, 157 ; Ou-e la's stories of, 104, 142; traditional story of, 240; shot by Joe and Hall on Whale Point, 430. Bechcr, A. B., Commander, R. N., letter, 11,13. Beekman, J. W., assists Hall, 41. Biglow, John, assists Hall, 38. Bishop, Hon. R. M., indorses Hall's appeal, XXV. Bliss &. Co. assist Hall, 41. Blunt, Messrs., assist Hall, 41. Bolby, Mr. .John, takes Joe and Hannah to England, 443. Boston, reported voyage from, for Northwest Passage in 1639, xliv. Brevoort, J. C, loans his correspondence with Hall, xii ; loans Hall his books, 14 ; assists Hall, 41 ; estimate of Hall's character, 432. Brevoort River, 342. Bryan, R. W. D., Assistant in preparation of the Narrative; prepares Hall's astronomical observations, 63, 452 ; prepares Hall's mete- orological journal, 479. Budington, Capt. James, rescues the Resolute, XXX. Budington, Capt. S. O., takes charge of Ebier- bing andToo-koo-li-too, 4 ; encourages Hall, 27 ; brings Eud-lup-pa-mn-nc and Ou-sc-gong to the United States, 447. Burr, A. W.. assists Hall. 41. 639 640 INDEX. Cape Euglcfiold, 348, 349. Cape Frigid, 207. Cape Fullerton, ISJ. Cape Lady Pelly. 252, 2f)2, 264, 316, 383. Cape Weyntou, 2f,.'3, 261, 313, 318, 384, 411. Chapell, E. H., of New Loudon, receives Hall's plans, 28; letter to Hall on -whaling, 34; gives free passage on board the Monticello, 42. Chapel, Capt. C. A., comniauds the Monticello, 43; Hall's letter to, 61, 76,107, 115; letter to Hall, lid. Chapel, Capt. H. Y., conveys Hall to Whale Point, 59. Chase, Hon. S. P., indorses Hall's appeal XXV. Chester, H. C, mate of the Monticello, 50; lands Hall at Whale Point, 59. Christie Lake, 241, 267, 315, 380. Chronometers, 41, 142, 238, 279, 306 ; correction of, 380-382; 38.5. Cliff at Now-yaru Harbor, tradition in regard to, 222. Coast Survey, U. S.^ loans a sextant and dip- circle, 41. Coldeu, Cadwalader, letter from Dr. Franklin for the Argo, 1753, xxxix. Cold intense, 106, 116, 127, 131, 140, 144, 146, 148, 150, 157, 161, 207, 295. Coleman, Pat, hired, 325 ; shot by Hall, 360. Collinson, Admiral R., E. N., his "Three Voy- ages of Frobisher," 12. Congress of U. S. purchase Hall's manuscripts, xi. Cooper, Peter, assists Hall, 41. Copp, J. J., of Groton, 10, 445, 448; presents Hall's geological collections to Amherst Col- lege, 454. Cracroft, Miss Sophia, receives a Franklin relic from Morison & Brown, N. Y., in 1878, xxiii ; ret urns books loaned by Hall to Lady Frank- lin, 5H7. Crane, William, jr., his visit to Hall from the Era, 1867, 433. Crozier, Capt. F. R. M. (A/j-loo-ka), E. N., xiv, xxviii, xxxiii, xxxiv, 108,255-257,397,406, 415, 420, 589-594, 606. Crozier Eiver visited, 341. Cud-lar-go's tombstone at Groton, 446. Dall, W. H., his application of the terms In- nnits, Eskimos, and Orarians, 62, 448. Daly, Judge C. P., president American Geo- graphical Society, states the results of ex- plorations for Northwest Passage, xxxiii ; assists Hall, 37; letter to, from Hall, 367. D6bri« and rocks on the ice. Hall's observations of, compared with Parry's, 193-198. De Haven, Lieutenant, U. S. N., expedition, xiii, XXX. Dennison, Hon. W., indorses Hall's appeal, xxv. Depot Island, 56. Diligence, the voyage of, from Virginia for Northwest Passage in 1772, xliv. Dillon, Capt. P., presents 'La Perouse's relics to Charles X, 5. Dogs, Eskimo, 63, 86, 115, 122, 136, 163, 173, 184, 209, 226, 239, 247, 250, 251, 253, 254, 279, 295, 299, 307, 336, 357, 379, 413. Donations, list of, acknowledged by Hall be- fore sailing in 1864, 44. Ducks, the Innuit plan to capture, 103 ; largo flocks, 133, 351. Dyer, E., ex-governor of Ehode Island, invites Hall to lecture, 24. Earthquake, supposed, 144. Ebierbing (Joe) returns with Hall from his first expedition, 4 ; sails from New Loudon, 42 ; shoots two polar bears, 51-53; meets the Inuuits, 62 ; builds Hall's igloo, 72 ; shaves Hall, 75; is ankooted, 82, 92 ; kills a walrus, 103 ; shoots a seal, 129, 145 ; makes a speech, 149; kills a walrus, 151; watches over a seal-hole, 154 ; kills a seal and walrus, 156 ; chases a bear, 157 ; shoots an ook-gook, 161 ; snow-blind, 172; hunts with Hall, 203; goes with Hall to Colvile Bay, 237; rewards the augeko, 248; buries his child, 265; huuts t he deer, 286 ; goes with Hall to Cape Weyn- tou, 314; to Melville Peninsula, 335; digs for the cache, 344 ; goes toward King Will- iam's Land, 378 ; shoots a bear, 429 ; notes of his life, 441-44(). Kik-oo-ar-choo (Jerry), 332, 378, 408. Eider-ducks, flocks of, in the Welcome, 133, 151. Egg.aet & Son assist Hall, 41. Egleston, T., report on Hall's geological collec- tions, 10. Emerson, Prof. B. K., Amherst College, discus- sion of Hall's geological collection, 10; Ap- l)endix HI, 553-583. E-nook-shoo-lik, encampment at, 274,2711. Ermine, 343. INDEX. 641 Erk-tu-a's superstition, 110 ; traditiou of Oo-oo- took oil Parry's ship, 112. E-vit-8hung beats the clogs, 183 ; consults " Sid- ney " for the safety of her children, 188. Explorations for the Northwest Passage, tables of English and American, xxvi-xxviii; for the relief of Franklin, xxix-xxxii ; results, xxxiii, xxxviii. Feasts, Innnit, 80, 90, 129, 214, 216, 369, 425, 428. Field, C.W., Hall's telegram to, 4 ; assists Hall, 41. Fisher, Captain, 428. Floats used by Ou-c-la in caxituring a whale, 191. "Fool's gold," Frobisher, 18. Fox, Arctic, caught in his own trap, 88, 374. Fox Channel, Oong-er-luk's sketch of, 354. Fort Hope of Dr. Eae, Hall arrives at, 192 ; 212, 223, 226. Franklin, Sir John, voyage in the Trent, xxvi ; land expeditions, xxvii ; expedition of 1845, xxviii ; death on the Erebus, (McClintock's record, ) xxxiii ; relics of, xxiii ; monument in Waterloo Place, xxxiii ; in Westminster Abbey, xxxiv. Franklin, Lady, desires Hall to go a third time for the records, xvi ; correspondence with Hall through Mr. Grinnell in 1869, xvii-xxiii ; in 1865,283; monument erected by her in Westminster Abbey, xxxiv. Franklin, Dr. Benjamin, letter to Cadwallader Golden on the expedition of 1753 in the Argo, xxxix. Frobisher, Sir Martin, sails to discover North- west Passage, 7 ; Hall's abstract of his voy- ages, 15-17 ; narrative of his voyages by Collinsou, 12. Frozen Strait of Middleton thought by Hall to be never frozen, 185. Furs, selection of, by the women first, 69. Fury and Hecla Strait visited, 331-353. Gales, 66, 79, 94, 127, 131, 136, 145, 150, 161, 176, 206, 238, 314, 324, 337, 379. Game abundant, 178 ; on the journey from King William's Land, 412. Geographical Society, American, Hall's paper read before, 8; letter to the President of, 367. Geograxjhical Society, Eoyal, of London, re- ceives relics from Hall, 10 ; paper read be- fore, 13. Geological collections from Hall's first expedi- S. Ex. 27 41 Geological collections — Continued. tion donated to New York Lyceum, reported upon by Stevens and Egleston, 10; donated to Amherst College and discussed by Pro- fessor Emerson, Appendix III. Gifi'ord Eiver visited, 352. Greenwood, Miles, receives a telegram j&om Hall, 4. Grinnell, H. , loans his correspondence, xii ; let- ter from Lady Franklin, xvii-xxi ; from Hall, xxi ; his expeditions under De Haven and Kane, xxx, xxxi ; states the value of Arctic explorations, xxxvii ; telegram from Hall, 4; interview with Hall, 26-28; sends supplies to him, 42, 283, 327. Grinnell Lake, 342, 395. Groton, Conn., burial-place of Eskimos, 447. Hall, Charles Francis, his three expeditious, xi ; purchase of his manuscripts by the Navy Department, xi ; resolution of U. S. Senate, xii ; his expeditions compared, xiii ; mo- tives for the first two expeditions, xvi ; let- ter from Lady Franklin to Mr. Grinnell, xvii-xxi; replies, xxi-xxiii; appeal and lecture, 1860, xxiv ; notes of early voyages, xxxix-xlv ; his Arctic authorities, xlvi-1. Eetums from his first expedition, 4 ; pro- poses to visit England, 5 ; abstract of La Perouse's voyage, 5, 6 ; again studies Arctic authorities, 8; reads a paper before the American Geographical Society, New York. 8 ; sends Frobisher relics to England, 8 ; cor- responds with Barrow, Becher, and Mark- ham, 11 ; his paper read at a meeting of the Eoyal Geographical Society, Loudon, 13; abstract of the Frobisher expeditions, 15-17. Lectures for his second expedition, 23-25 ; asks aid from Congress, 25 ; interview with Mr. Henry Grinnc]], 26; private notes, 26; plans submitted to Grinnell and Chapell, 28-32; correspondence about whaling, 34; letter to Professor Bache, 35 ; defers his voy- age, 38 ; renews his appeal, 39 ; receives aid, 41 ; sails from New London, 42. Sails from St. John's, 46 ; aids in captur- ing two polar bears, 50-54 ; lauds at Depot Island, 56; hires Eudolph, 57; arrives at Whale Point, 59 ; makes a cache, 60 ; meets the Innnits, 62 ; second encampment, 63 ; talks with natives about Franklin, 64; re- lieves the suflciiiig, 66, 80 ; moves his tiipik, 67 ; goes into winter quarters, 75. 642 INDEX. Hall, Charles Frauds — Continued. Proposes his plans to the people, 81 ; ac- customs himself to luuuit customs and food, 8-2; builds a magnetic observatory, 84; finds his ink frozen, 85 ; makes his first sledge trips with the Innuits, 86, 89, 133 ; joins in their feasts, 80, 90, 129, 428, 432 ; hunts a seal, 93 ; moves to the walrus grounds, 100 ; is an- kooted, 102 ; discharges Rudolph, 105 ; cor- rects his dates, 114 ; letter to Capt. E. A. Chapel, 107 ; receives supplies from the whalers, 115, 325 ; joins in a wali-us-hunt, 119-123. Speech on New Year's Day, 130; visits the Monti cello, 132 ; experiments with freez- ing mercury, 146 ; writes wifji great diffi- culty, 148, 150; goes out sealing, 152; suf- fers for food, 155; renews his supplies, 156; proposes to survey the coast, 158; broken health, 159 ; arrives at the Wager, 164. Harpoons a seal, 168; arrives at Re- pulse Bay, 177 ; visits the whaler Black Eagle, 181 ; the Ansel Gibbs, 189 ; capt- ures a whale, 190 ; encamps at Fort Hope, 192 ; his notes on debris found on the ice, 193-198. Hunts Ihe deer, 202; severe exposures, 204-209 ; his daily subsistence, 211 ; pre- pares fur elothiug, 213 ; dresses entirely in furs, 213 ; builds his own igloo, 214 ; life at Now-yarn, 216-221 ; returns to Fort Hope, 223; his control of Ar-mou and of the In- nuits, 224, 432; meteorological notes during the winter, 227-231. First advance toward King William's Land, 237 ; depositshis records, 241 ; arrives at the Sea of Ak-koo-lec, 252 ; meets Pelly Bay men, 255 ; returns to Repulse Bay, 261 ; buries Too-koo-li-too's babe, 266; journal entry on his return, 268. Determines to hire Avhito men for a sec- ond advance, 260-274 ; meets Pelly Bay men again, 275; furthernewsof Franklin's party, 27() ; annoyances, 277 : begins survey of Re- ])ulsc. Bay, 279 ; visits the Pioneer and An- sell (iibbs, 281; assists the whalers, 285; asks their help for men and dogs, 285 ; prc- ])are8 and ships his whalebone, 287 ; en- camps near the ships, 289 ; is refused a team of dogs, 290. Begins a journey to Ig-loo-lik, 295 ; suffer- ings, 297-300 ; buys a team, 302; arrives at Hall, Charles Francis — Continued. Repulse Bay, 309; is refused leave to hire men, 309. Visits his cache at Cape Weynton, 313 ; makes a new cache, 318 ; goes on a musk-ox hunt,319; makespurchases from the whalers, 323; goes into winter quarters, 325; hires five white men, 326. Journey to the Strait of Fury and Hecla, 336 ; arrives on the northwest side of Mel- ville Peninsula, 342 ; discovers a new island, 343 ; finds a monument and a tenting- place of white men, 344-340; visits Amherst Isl- and, 349; Gilford River, 352; returns to Re- pulse Bay, 35() ; shoots a mutineer, 360 ; se- cures a whale, 363 ; journey to Lyon's Inlet, 364; winter quarters at Talloon,368; pre- pares pemmiean and ammunition for a final sledge journey, 371. Pinal journey to King William's Land, 379 ; arrives at Cape Weynton, 384 ; at Au- gusta Island, 388 ; at Simpson's Lake, 394 ; at Todd's Island, 400 ; discovers the remains of some of Franklin's men, 401-403 ; retui-ns to Repulse Bay, 409 ; goes on a musk-ox hunt, 413 ; writes to Mr. Grinnell the results of his journey to King William's Land, 415; recovers his whalebone from the cache, 427 ; leaves Repulse Bay, 4~8 ; hunts the bear at Whale Point, 429 ; lands at New Bedford, 430 ; tributes to his work, 431-437 ; astro- nomical observations, 451-475 ; meterologi- cal observations, 479-550; conversations with Innuits, 587-611. Harper Brothers assist Hall, 44 ; send the "Arc- tic Researches" to Repulse Bay, 283. Hayes, Hon. R. B., indorses Hall's appeal, xxv. Haviland Bay, encamped on, 187; crossed, 337, 357, 364. Herald, the New York, Hall writes to, 156. Hooper Inlet visited, 341, 342. Hoppner Inlet visited, 357. Igloo, construction of, 72 ; Hall's first, 75 ; lam]), 75; village, 128; built on sledge jouiiiey, 134 ; HaU's, at Now-yarn, 214 ; feasting, 220. Ig-loo-lik, Hall's journey to, 295-301. /«-nooA'-j>oo-5/ie<'-_;"ooA'« account of Franklin's men, 397 ; map of King William's Laud, 398 ; fur- ther account of Franklin's men, 403; fight with a musk-ox, 413; interview with Hall, 419, 60S. INDEX. 643 Innuits, right use of the terni,G'2; first met, 02; division of furs, 09 ; feasts, 80, 90, 309 ; prep- aration of fur dresses, 91 ; amusements, 95, 218, 369 ; superstitions, ^,110, 277, 282, 286, 322; conversations with, 64, 108; orna- ments, 219 ; Hall's control of, 225, 277, 432. Iwillik, 64, 95, 227, 324, 364, 369, 424. Journal of Commerce, Hall's letters to, 156, 587. Jeffries, Captain of the George and Mary, 115. Kane, Dr., voyage S., xxx, xxxi. Key-low-tik, playing on, 96, 129. Ei-as or hjaku of Repulse Bay compared witli those of Greenland, 216. Kilmer, Captain, 65, 189,285,319. King William's Laud (Ei-ki-Uik), first advance to, 237 ; return from, 261 ; sledge journey to, 377 ; return, 409. Kin-na-pa-toos, 171; their dogs, 239. Knight and Barlow, expedition of, 56. Eohhlg and Tiing-nu¥s Franklin relics, 391. Eoo-loo-a takes Hall to the cache on Melville Peninsula, 341; his report of the white men, 596. Eok-lee-arvg-vun's relics and stories of Frank- lin's men, 255; hung by his son, 277. Eom-mong (half tents), 169, 171, 174. Eow (walrus hide), 136, 389 ; sled made of, 305, 307,309. Leonard or Lailor, Frank, xxii, 295, 314, 319, 325, 336, 345, 362. La Perouse, expedition of, 5. Leach, U. S. Consul, assists Hall, 47. Lefferts Marshall assists Hall, 41. Lightning and thunder storm, 181 ; Innuit no- tions of, 182, 187. Lyon's Inlet, journey to, 364. Mavi-mark, 128, 226, 245; death, 321. Man-liue (rue-i-addies), 246, 373. Marble Island, 55, 59, 139, 143. Markham, C. R., on the use of oil in the manu- facture of jute, 618. Marmots (Sixies), 263, 412. McCUntock, Sir Leopold F., brings the Frank- lin Record from Point Victory, xxxiii ; let- ter in regard to Arctic explorations, xxxiv. McDongall, U. S. Consul at Dundee ; report of the whale fishery and jute, Appendix V, 619. Mercury, experiments with, 146. Meteorological Journal, Appendix II, 479-543; special observations, 94, 227-231,366. Monticello sails from New Loudon, 42 ; from St. John's, 48 ; passage through Hudson Straits, 55. Monument found by Hall, with tenting-place, on Melville Peninsula, 344-347. Morgan, Captain, 283, 285. Morison & Brown, expedition for the Franklin Records, xxiii. Mosquitoes, 75, 322, 426. Muktuk relished by Hall, 72, 81, 214, 225, 314. Murchison River, 395. Musk oxen, 76, 86, 319, 413. Nares, Sir George, on Hall's observations. Navy Department purchase Hall's manuscripts, xi. Negus «fe Co. assist Hall, 41. Newton, Prof. R. S., M. D. , assists Hall, 41. New London, Hall sails from, xiii, 42. New Year's Day feast and speech, 128. Noodloo's sketch of Murray Maxwell Inlet, 351. Noo-wook, 63, 142. Nordenskiold's coast-line, xxxix. Norton, Silas, 314. Norman and Necbarbic Creeks visited, 365. North Pole River and Lake, 192, 279. Nordhoff, C, assists Hall while preparing his "Arctic Researches," 44. Now-yam, 214, 221. Nu-ker-zhoo (Jack), 63, 105, 152, 168, 378, 394, 421. Oog-la-ri-your Island, camped on, 179, 221, 280. Oo-glit Islands, 299, 338, 350. Oo-oo-took on Parry's ship, 112. Ook-gook caught, 161, 181 ; lines made from, 181. Ook-joo-Uk (O'Reilly Island), 257, 400, 418. Oon-ger-luk's sketch of Fox Channel, 354 ; of Ad- miralty Inlet, 356. Osborn, Admiral Sherard, the value of Arctic exploration, xxxvi. Ook-har-loo, 65, 67, 590, 592, 594. Ook-har-loo (the son), 99. Ok-pas, 49. Orarians, use of the term, 62. Ou-lig-buck, 66. Ou-e-la, the chief of the tribe, 62, 86, 99, 103, 104, 105, 118, 138, 142, 160, 162, 167, 170, 178, 190, 225; his map, 278; 300,309,378,394,432. Papa-teiv-a goes with Hall to Melville Penin- sula, 336 ; sketch of Lyon's Inlet, 364 ; of Pond's Bay, 370. 044 INDEX. Parhelia, 208, 242. Parry's flag-staff, place of, visited, 305. Petfer Eiver, 401. Peto,the,295. Petnlarks, 49. Pelly Bay natives' accounts of l"^aukliu, 25.'); frighten Hall's party, 260. Pemiuican, Hall's, 372; Dr. Kichardson's, 372. Pingit-ka-lik, 307. ritil-ioii-jicr, heights of, 280; monuments, 281. I'ike & Son assist Hall, 41. Poillon, Messrs., assist Hall, 37. Ptarmigan, 71, 76, 210, 341, 412. I'luma (Sylvia), 378, 445, 447. Quilliam Creek, 341. Kae, Dr. John, confirms Hall's statements, 13. Rain-storms, 182, 187, 321. liefractiou, 179, 207. Reindeer (?MA:-too), 63, 70, 7G, 87, 172, 178, 181, 204, 251,286,319,327,341,413. Repulse Bay, arrives at, 171. Ross Bay, 296. Robinson, Captain, assists Hall, 37. Rodman, Maj. W. M., invites Hall tolecture,24. Rogers, Captain, assists Hall, 115. Salmon, 164, 210, 342, 358, 424. Sargent, Hon. A. A. ; resolution in the U. S. Sen- ate to preparer a Narrative of Hall's Second Exi)edition, xii. Saxifrage, the, 178, 426. Schwatka, Lieutenant, U. S. A., goes out for the Franklin records, xxiii. Seals, 49, 90, 93, 145, 149, 152, 1.56, 160, 161, 168, 170, 171, 172, 279, 303, 352, 396. /See-j)««