V'-^'\/ %*^*^'%o' V^^^*^,**' % i% %.A^ 6 .A, % .0? V^c^-^ ^°-^* .V <^°*. '4' .^- ■1^ LACE WORK A HANDBOOK ILLUSTRATED APR 571 a»6 '>' •F WASHV BOSTON : PERRY MASON & COMPANY 1896. LACE WORK A HANDBOOK ILLUSTRATED / \ M- ^^ ^ ^ I APR 971896/ %^f} f^-^l BOSTON : PERRY MASON & COMPANY 1896. Copyright, 18!k;, BY The Barbol'r Brothers Company. v:> THE VIENNA LACE MACHINE. American Model. ^ \r/^_ -n 1^ Introduction. Torchon, or "household"" lace may lie called the purest and simplest of bobl>in laces. It is applied to every purpose for which knitted and crocheted laces are adaptable. Behig woven, it will not ravel, and its strength, durability and beauty, together with the great variety of combi- nations possible, render it most desirable for gen- eral use. A mistaken notion has declared this method of lace-making difficult to learn. Instead, it is no more so than that of knitting, or crochet- ing, and is quite as rapidly executed. The work soon becomes mechanical, and is extren»ely fas- cinating. Although this little book is designed for beginners especially, I trust all will tind some- thing of interest and benefit in its pages. After thoroughly mastering the grounds, or " weaves " and patterns presented, no one will have any difficulty in working from sample, the lace pattern being furnished. Do not say, ••! cannot do this," but begin, remembering that practice soon makes perfect. Mary E. Bkadtoki). General Directions, The implements needed for work are bobbins, lace-deslv, pattern and pins. A machine for winding thread on the bobbins is quite essential if one purposes to make a business of the lace- making, but this may be had later. It should be borne in mind that only linen thread is suitable for bobbin lace, and that to insure the best results this should be smooth, lustrous, strong and flexible. It has been found by experimenting that Barbour's Irish flax threads possess these essential qualities to a much greater extent than any other on the market, and I recommend it unhesitatingly. Pins and patterns vary in size according to the No. of thread used, and purpose for which the lace is required. The same design may be used for fine and coarse lace, the pattern being enlarged or made smaller by use of the "point" or quadrille paper. No. 250, 2-cord (Barbour's lace thread), makes a delicate edging, suitable for trimming very fine handkerchiefs, etc. ; the same design in No. 50, same make, and on a pattern correspondingly enlarged, produces a most useful lace for trimming underwear and similar purposes. The pins, which for ordinary torchon lace are of large size, sharp and round- headed, are pushed in the holes designated by number. These are always put between the two pairs of bobbins last used, unless otherwise stated, and the threads "closed" around them. To begin, wind the bobbins (from you, as you G EN ERA L DIRECriONS. hold the handle in left hand), and make a loop at the end of each to prevent the thread slipping off too fast. (Fig. 1.) By turning the bobbin care- fully as it lies on the desk, the thread may be unwound as needed, and this action soon becomes mechanical to the worker, as does that of drawing up and straightening the threads. It is desirable to wind each bobbin as full as convenient, in order to avoid frequent joinings. When necessary' to join on a freshly-filled bobbin, lap the ends of thread for two or three inches, make a loop around the forefinger of left hand in the usual way, then brmg the ends throvigh the loop, over the threads, and draw up tight and cut off ends. This is as secure as the complicated 'Mveaver's knot," and very simple. A little practice will enable one to tie it perfectly. Pin the pattern smoothly around the cylinder, taking care that it matches in order to be continuous. If too large, which is not often the case, wind a strip of soft cloth or felt around the roll before pinning on. Tie the bobbin threads together at the ends in pairs, pinning in holes designated as many pairs as are specified in the directions. The bobbins are used and numbered by pairs, always according to the place they occupy at time of using, and beginning at the left. Two pairs — right and left — are used at a time, and the "stitches" are formed l)y the "twist" and "cross" of bobbin GENERAL DIRECTIONS. thi-eads. The cross consists in passing the right bol)bin of tlie left pair over the left bobbin of the right pair — or, passing the 2d of the four bobbins over the 3d. The twist is simply carrying the right bobbin of each pair over the left of same pair, or passing the 2d and 4th over 1st and 3d. These are the only movements made in the laces given. Together, they form the half-throw (ht), and the whole-throw (wt) is the half-throw repeated. In the linen ground, as used in " spiders," etc., we have the half-throw and cross, or etc — cross, twist, cross. This makes a close texture. Torchon laces are made up of grounds or " weaves " in a variety of combinations, and to these is devoted considerable space. 10 LACE WORK. Net Ground. This is made entirely with half-throws. Pin the pattern around the cylinder, and pin 1 pair of bobbins in each of 6 holes across the pa tern. Beginning at the righ lit with 5th and 6th pairs, same with 4th and 5th, 3d and 4th, 2d and 3d, 1st and 2d, pin in 1, close with ht. (The closing is ahvays done, and with ht, unless other- wise directed.) Now, work- ing to the right, ht with 2d and 3d, 3d and 4th, 4th and 5th, 5th and 6th, pin in 2, close; work left, again, to 1st and 2d pairs, putting pin in 3, and so continue to length desired. These grounds form pretty insertions, and are useful in a variety of ways. Til is pattern may be used for linen ground by hanging on an extra pair of bobl^ins at 6tli pin. LACE WORK. 11 Plain Hole Ground. Also made with half- throws. Pin pattern around cylinder, and pin 2 pairs of bobbins in each of 5 holes across, having threads of near- ly uniform length and long enough to work nicely. Ht with 2d and 3d pairs, pin in 1, close; ht with 1st and 2d, pin in 2, close ; ht with 4th and 5th, pin in 3, close; ht with 3d and 4th, pin in 4, close ; ht with 2d and 3d, pin in 5, close ; ht with 1st and 2d, pin in 6, close ; and continue to work in this way. This ground, with the ''twisted hole ground," which is work- ed on the same pattern, and differs only in the making of an extra twist after the half- throw inclosing the pin, is perhaps more used in the making of torchon lace than anv other. Plain Hole Ground. 12 LACE WORK. Twisted Hole Ground, with " Spider." Work as directed for plain hole ground, making the extra twist. To form the spider, or wheel, use the 4 middle pairs — 4th, 5th, 6th and 7th. Twist 5th and 6th (in plain hole ground they must be twisted twice), etc; tw 4th, etc with 4th and 5th, tw 7th, etc with 6th and 7th, etc with 5th and 6th, pin in hole ])etween the 2 pairs, centre of spider, close with etc, etc with 4tli and 5th, 6th and 7th, 5th and 6th, tw each pair once and proceed. It will be seen that for each pair of "legs" in the spider, a pair of bobbins is used. Twisted Hole Ground, with "Spider. LACE WORK. 13 Twisted Hole Ground, with "Spider" Completed. u LACE WORK. Tulle Ground. Tulle Ground. Pattern same as for open hole ground, and bobbins pinned on in same way. This ground is worked ex- actly as is the twisted hole ground, only that you do not close in any of the pins save those on the edge, for the selvage. Ht with 1st and 2d pairs, pin in 1 — remembering not to close. Ht with 1st and 2d, pin in 2, close — this for the edge; ht 3d and 4th, pin in 3 ; ht 2d and 3d, pin in 4; ht 1st and 2d, pin in 5, close. Continue in this way. The illustration is much enlarged to shoAv the method of work. Made in fine thread, this ground is the foundation of many of the beautiful Mechlin and Brussels laces. LACE WORK. 15 Brussels Ground. Use same pattern as for liole ground, but instead of a half-throw before and after the pin, make a whole-throw. Thus : wt with 2d and 3d, pin in 1, close with wt; wt with 1st and 2d, pin in 2, wt, and continue. Brussels Ground. 16 LACE WORK. Valenciennes Ground. This is formed of plaits for which 2 pairs of bobbins are used, and made with 4, 6 or 8 half- throws, according to the size of squares. The pattern consists simply of diagonal rows of holes, as for hole ground. Pin 2 pairs in 1st hole at the left, and 4 pairs in each of remaining holes. Make Hi Valenciennes Ground. 6 ht (3 wt) with 1st and 2d pairs, same with 3d and 4th ; nov.' with the 4 pairs, using a pair as 1 bobbin, make a ht, pin in 1, cross; this makes a neat joining. Continue making the plaits and joining in same wa.y. To cross, in this instance, pass the 2d pair of bobbins over the 3d. Then proceed Avith next plait. LACE WORK. Pin-Check or Ornamental Ground. This pattern is like tliat for plain hole ground, save that it is differently numbered. It may be worked narrow or wider, as liked. Pin 2 pairs each in a, b, c, d, e, f and g. Ht with 2d and 3d, ht 1st and 2d, pin in 1, close (with ht) ; ht 3d and 4th, pin in 2, close ; ht 2d and 3d, pin in 3, close ; ht 1st and 2d, pin in 4, close; ht 3d and 4th, 5th and 6th, pin in 5, close; ht 7th and 8th, pin in 6, close; ht 6th and 7th, pin in 7, close; ht 5th and 6th, 6th and 7th, 4th and 5th, pin in 8, dose; ht 3d and 4th, pin in 9, close; ht 5th and 6th, pin in 10, close ; ht 4th and 5th, pin in 11, close; ht 3d and 4th, 4th and 5th; lit 2d and 3d, pin in 12, close; ht 1st and 2d, pin in 13, close; ht 3d and 4th, pin in 14, close; ht 2d and 3d, pin in 15, close; ht 1st and 2d, pin in 16, close ; ht 9th and 10th, pin in 17, close; ht 11th and 12th, pin in 18, close; ht 10th and Uth, pin in 19, close ; ht 9th and 10th, 10th and Uth. Continue. Pin-Check or Ornamental Ground. 18 LACE WORK. r 1 Rose Ground. Pin 2 pairs in a, 1 in each of b, c, d, e, f, g, h, and 2 pairs in i. Ht 2d and 3d. tw both pairs, pin in 1, close with ht, and tw both pairs. (A twist follows each half- throw, so need n®t be again mentioned.) Ht 1st and 2d, pin in 2, close ; ht 2d and 3d, pin in 3, close; ht 4th and 5th, pin in 4, close; hi 3d and 4th, pin in 5, close ; ht 2d and 3d, pin in 6, close; ht 1st and 2d, pin in 7, close; ht 4th and 5th, pin in 8, close; ht 2d and 3d, pin in 9, close; ht 6th and 7th, pin in 10, close ; and so continue. This makes a very pretty lace, and is desir- able for veils and similar purposes. Rose Ground. LACE WORK. 19 Eternelle Ground. For 2 rows of holes, 7 pairs of bobbins are required. Pin 3 pairs in a, 1 in b, and 3 in c. In wider patterns, 9 pairs are used for 3 rows, 11 for 4 rows, and so on. Wt with 2d and 3d pairs, 4th and nth, and 6th and 7th ; wt 3d and 4th, 4th and 5th, r)th and 6th, 6th and 7th ; pin in 1, be- tween 2d and 3d pairs, wt; pin in 2, between 4th and 5th pairs, Avt; in 3, between 5th and 6th, wt; ht 1st and 2d, pin in 4 ; close with ht ; wt 2d and 3d, 3d and 4th, 4th and 5th, 5th and 6th, 6th and 7th; pin between 2d and 3d, 4th and 5th, 6th and 7th; then wt 6th and 7th, 4th and 5th, 2d and 3d, ht 1st and 2d, pin in 8, ht; wt all pairs through, and so continue. Eternelle Ground. 20 LACE WORK. Braid for Battenberg or Renais= sance Work. The linen or cloth ijround is nicely illustrated in this l)raiil, which is found useful for many pur- poses. The pattern consists of 3 holes across the top and vertical rows at the sides, as in pattern for l)lain net. The illustration is enlarc^ed, to show the work better, and the braid mav be made wider Braid for Battenberg or Renaissance Work. or narrower, at pleasure. Use No. 50 Barbour's linen and 6 pairs of bobbins. Pin 2 pairs in 1st hole, 3 in 2d, and 1 in 3d. Befiinning at the left, *tw 2d pair, etc 2d and 3d ; etc 3d and 4th ; etc 4th and 5th; tw 5th and 6th, etc, pin in 1, wt; tw 5th pair, etc witli 4tli and oth ; etc 3d and 4th ; etc 2d and 3d; tw 1st and 2d, etc. pin in 2. wt, and repeat from *. LACE WORK. Loop Point Edging. Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 100, 8 pairs bobbins. Pin 3 pairs in a and b, 2 pairs in c. AVt 2d and 3d, pin in 1 ; wt 1st and 2d, 2d Loop Point Edging. and 3d, and across to 7th pair ; cross 6th pair over 7th, 8th over 7th, 6th over 5th, pin in 2, cross 6th over 7th, plait 7th and 8th by making 4 ht, pin in 3, plait 7th and 8th, wt 3d and 4th ; repeat. 22 LACE WORK. Baby Lace and Insertion. Use Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 120, with 6 pairs of bobbins. The pattern is similar to that for tlie Battenberg l)raid, made larger or smaller according to size of thread used. Pin 2 pairs of bobbins in each of 3 holes across the pattern. Wt 2d and 3d pairs, pin in 1 ; without closing, wt 1st and 2d, then wt 2d and 3d, closing the pin. This makes a nice selvage for any lace. Wt 3d and4th,4tli and 5th, ."ith and 6th, pin in 2, close with wt ; wt 4th and 5th. Then repeat from begin- ning. This may be workexl very rapid- ly. To make the nisertiou to match, or if wanted alone, make both edges alike, thus : After wt 4th and 5th, working to the right, pin in 2, do not close, wt 5th and 6th, then wt 4th and 5th. The insertion makes a lovely little hemstitching or bit of "drawn -work" for a handkerchief; indeed, many uses will be found for this simple lace and insertion. Baby Lace Insertioi LACE WORK. Diamond Point Edging. Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 50, 10 pairs of bobbins, pattern and lace-desk, with pins of large size. Pin 2 pairs of boljbins mil, 2 in 12, 1 pair each in 10, 18, 19 and 20, and 2 pairs in 21. The grounds used are plain hole and net. The point is made tirst. Beginning with 9th and 10th pairs, ht, pin in 1, close. Ht to left, as directed for net ground, using 6th pair, pm in 2, close; to right, pin in 3, close. (I should advise making the edge with wt 9th and 10th, as in " Round Point Edging.") Ht to left, using oth pair, pin in 4, close; to right, pin in 5, close ; to left, using 4th pair, pin in 6, close ; to right, pin in 7, close; to left, in same way, using 5th pair, and putting pin in 8; to right, pin in 9; to left, using 6th pair, pin in 10 ; to right, pin in 11 ; to left, using 7th pair, pin in 12, then, after closing, lit with 8th and 9th, and put aside 4 pairs, ready for use on next point. For the hole ground, ht with 3d and 4th pairs, pin in 13, close; ht 2d and 3d, tw 1st pair, wt 1st and 2d, draw up threads, pin in 14, close with wt; ht 4th and 5th, pin in 15, close; ht 3d and 4th, pin in 16, close; wt 2d and 3d, tw 1st, wt 1st and 2d. pin in 17, w^t; ht 5th and 6th, pin in 18, close ; ht 4th and 5th, pin in U, close; ht3d and 4th. pin in 20, close; wt 2d and 3d, tw 1st, wt 1st and 2d, pin in 21, wt. Repeat from beginning. This pattern may be varied by making the upper half of the point of linen ground, and lower half of twisted bars. Diamond Point Edging. 24 LACE WORK. Antique or "Spider" Insertion. Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 30. 16 pairs of bobbins, medium pins and lace-desk. Antique or "Spider ' Insertion. Pin 3 pairs of bobbins in 11, 1 pair each in 10, 8, 9, 7, 4, 14, 17, 19, 18, 20, and 3 in 21. Our illustration shows perfectly the method of LACE WORK. working. Beginning with the spider, whicli is linen ground, tw 8th and 9th pairs twice, etc; tw 7tli twice, etc with 7th and 8th ; tw 10th twice, etc with 9th and 10th ; etc with 8th and 9th, pin in 1, close with etc; etc 9th and 10th, 7th and 8th, 8th and 9th; now tw 7th twice, ht with 6th and 7th, pin in 2, * close ; ht 5th and 6th, 4tli and 5th, pin in 3, close; ht 5th and 6th, 6th and 7th, tw 8th twice^ lit 7th and 8th, pin in 4, close ; ht 6th and 7th, 5th and 6th, 4th and 5th, 3d and 4th, pin in 5, close; wt 2d and 3d, tw 1st twice, ht 1st and 2d, pin in 6, close; wt 2d and 3d, ht 4th and 5th, 5th and 6th, 6th and 7th, pin in 7, close; ht 5th and 6th, 4th and 5th, pin in 8, close; ht 5th and 6th, pin ni 9, close; ht 4th and 5th, 3d and 4t]i, pin in 10, close; wt 2d and 3d, tw 1st twice, ht 1st and 2d. pin in 11, close; ht 4tli and 5th. 5th and 6th.* Putting these aside, work the other side of insertion in same manner, repeating from * to *, merely considering 16th pair as 1st, 15th as 2d, etc. Then Ijegin at first again. This is a desirable insertion, as it matches almost any of the ''spider" or antique ])atterns of lace. 26 LACE WORK. Round Point Edging. Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 50, 3-cord, 200-yards spools, 10 pairs of bobbins, lace-desk and pattern. Pin 2 pairs each in 17, 14, 16, 11 and 12. \Vt with 9th and 10th pairs, pin in 1, close with wt. (The wt is made with 9th and 10th pairs throughout, in order to form a durable edge, and will not be specially referred to.) Work with ht to left, using 4th pair, pin in 2, and close (as always, unless otherwise specified) with ht; to right, pin in 3 ; to left, leaving off 4th pair, pin in 4 ; to right, pin in 5 ; to left, leaving off 5th pair, pin in 6; then to right, ht with 6th .and 7th, 7th and 8th, 8th and 9th pairs, and put aside. Beginning Avith open ground, tw 3d pair, *wt Avith 2d and 3d, pin in 7, then (before closing) tw 1st pair twice, wt with 1st and 2d, wt with 2d and 3d (thus closing in the pin), tw 2d and 3d pairs,* tw 4th pair, ht with 3d and 4th, pin in 8, close, tw 3d and 4th pairs, repeat from * to *, putting the pin in 9. tw 5th pair, ht with 4th and 5th, pin in 10, close, tw 4th and 5th, ht with 3d and 4th, pin in 11, close, twist 3d and 4th, repeat from * to *, putting pin in 12. To complete the net ground edge, wt with 9th and 10th, pin in 13, wt; work to left, using 5th pair, pin in 14, to right, pin in 15 ; to left, using 4th pair, pin in 16 ; to right, pin in 17 ; to left, using 3d pair, pin in 18. Then ht to right, and repeat from beginning. LACE WORK. 27 Round Foint Edging. 28 LACE WORK. /\^^.%^-^- / .>V^,, -.^^^^ ,^\ %/ ,^". %,^* ;| - <^ ^s^ APR 79 INDIANA 46962 rwwEfrar'tt"* .<* ... °•^ '■''•°'' a° V -•''• S\\\V^riy//>7 A^ * ^^.,^* a'aVa' •^^ _**