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MANUAL 
 
 OF 
 
 NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 TEACHING HOW TO DO 
 
 KENSINGTON, APPLIQUE, CRETONNE, ROMAN, 
 CROSS-STITCH, OUTLINE and OTHER EMBROIDERIES. 
 
 HOW TO MAKE 
 
 HONITON, MODERN POINT AND MACRAME LACE, 
 DARNED NET, &c. 
 
 ALSO,^ ^ '■ 
 
 , C GIVES INSTRUCTION IN KNITTING, CROCHETING, 
 
 ^ '< 
 J^' I \j TATTING, RUG MAKING, &c. 
 
 With numerous directions for making many articles of Home and 
 Personal Adornment. 
 
 PROFUSEL Y ILLUSTRA TE0.<: 
 
 
 NEW YORK : 
 
 PATTEN PUBLISHING COMPANY, 
 
 47 BARCLAY STREET. 
 
 i88r 
 
^h^ 
 
 f 
 
 \ -^ 
 
 Copyrighted 1SS3 
 
 MRS. J. I.. PATTEN. 
 
NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 There cannot be too much said in favor of this branch of female 
 education. Needlework is most essentially feminine, and the 
 great importance of early training, in the art of plain needlework 
 cannot be overestimated. No young girl should be allowed to 
 reach womanhood without at least mastering the needle sufficiently 
 to keep in order her own wardrobe, thus training her hands to 
 activity and making preparation for future home usefulness. 
 
 Fancy or decorative needlework is at present engrossing the 
 female mind to a considerable degree, and supposing the first rudi- 
 ments to have already been taught, the object of this little book is 
 to teach the use of the needle in the various kinds of work, which 
 the necessities of housekeeping and requirements of tasteful home 
 decoration may demand. 
 
 COTTON EMBROIDERY 
 
 Enters very largely into the ornamentation of undergarments, as 
 well as being much used for trimming linen and cambric dresses, and 
 children's suits, therefore this shall receive our first attention. 
 
 BUTTON HOLE STITCH 
 
 Is of first importance, as it is always used to edge cotton em- 
 broidery. The point or scallop is first very carefully traced or 
 stamped upon the material to be embroidered, after which two 
 rows of stitches should be run in, to define both upper and under 
 edge of the point or scallop. It is well then to fill in between these 
 threads with long loose stitches of cotton, not only to add to the 
 strength and durability of the work, but to give it a heavy raised 
 appearance when finished. (Cut No. 2.) 
 
4 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 It will be seen by reference to the cuts i and 2, that the needle 
 should pass through just at the edge of the top thread, coming 
 
 
 Cut No. 1. 
 
 out just under the lower line or thread, while the cotton is held by 
 the left thumb a little to the ritrht of where the needle is to come 
 
 Cut Nn. 2. 
 
 through, so that as the needle and thread is drawn up, a loop is 
 formed which fastens itself. 
 
 SATIN STITCH. 
 
 All leaves and flowers, both in cotton and silk embroidery are 
 worked in this stitch. The edges of the leaf or flower should be 
 
 Cut No. 3. 
 
 run round, closely following the stamped pattern, then with a 
 coarse embroidery cotton fill the space with long loose stitches, 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 5 
 
 lengthwise of the leaf or petal, or in a contrary direction from the 
 stitches which are to cover them. After this is done, the stitches 
 should be put in over and over, laying closely side by side, and the 
 defining line of the pattern very carefully followed. Small leaves 
 should be worked from the center outward and all leaves from the 
 veining out toward the points. (Cut No. 3.) 
 
 The veining should be thus marked by the work or the meeting 
 of the satin stitches. Flowers are worked from the center outward, 
 and each petal separately. 
 
 SPOT STITCH 
 
 Is merely a short back stitch, and is used sometimes in filling in 
 parts of leaves, to give variety to the work. Larger dots are run 
 round with cotton, and after being filled in, by passing the cotton 
 across the circle two or three times, the stitches are then worked in 
 the opposite direction, one laying closely by the side of the other, 
 as in satin stitch. 
 
 OPEN WORK EMBROIDERY OR EYELET HOLES. 
 
 The design is first stamped, and then the lines are all run round 
 with cotton or floss. If a leaf, it is then slashed with the scissors, 
 
 and the material drawn or tucked under, or back, to where the leaf 
 is defined, then carefully sewed over and over, the stitches being 
 close together. If an eyelet only is to be made, a stilletto pierced 
 through the material will be all that is necessary, working over and 
 over, as before stated. Be careful that the needle is brought up 
 each time just where the eyelet or leaf is defined, as the evenness 
 of the work depends wholly on this. (Cut No. 4.) 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK, 
 
 WHEEL STITCH. 
 
 Sometimes a wheel is used to give variety to work. It is first 
 run round, then carefully cut out with a pair of fine scissors, do 
 not cut to the extreme size you wish to make your wheel, but leave 
 a little margin to turn back under, to make the work firm. The 
 space is now filled in evenly with long threads passing back and 
 forth from side to side, and knotted in the center. The edge of 
 
 
 Ill' 
 
 Cut No. 5. 
 
 the wheel is then carefully sewed over and over, or finely button- 
 hole stitched. There are a great many designs for wheels, and con- 
 siderable practice is required to work them, but when these stitches 
 are once mastered a person can do all the different varieties of 
 cotton embroidery. 
 
 HERRING BONE STITCH. 
 
 This stitch is much used in joining the seams of flannel, so 
 they shall be flat, one breadth overlapping the other. It is used 
 also for decorating tidies, towels, etc., and when one kind of fabric 
 is to be applied to another in fancy work, it makes a very effective 
 stitch. It is also used in ornamenting aprons and other children's 
 garments, where it is not desirable to spend time for embroidery. 
 It is done by sewing backwards and alternating loops of loose 
 button-hole stitch. The cut will give a better idea than any de- 
 scription could possibly do. (See cut No. 6.) 
 
 CHAIN STITCH. 
 
 This stitch is very useful in a variet)'^ of ways. It is used for 
 fastening the edges of applique work, for embroidery on flannel, for 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. ^ 
 
 table covers, stitching in braiding patterns, with colored floss or silk, 
 and may be used on linen and children's clothes, using floss or cot- 
 ton of a contrasting color. Braiding patterns worked in chain 
 stitch, in colored cotton, will wash and wear better than the braid 
 which is so much used, and takes very little more time to accom- 
 plish. 
 
 This stitch (see cut No. 7) is formed by a loop made first upon the 
 upper side of the material, and the needle passed up through, se- 
 
 Cut No. 7. 
 
 Cut No. 8. 
 
 curing the loop. The needle is then passed down very near where 
 it was drawn up, the left thumb holding the thread so it can- 
 not be wholly drawn back, a stitch is taken towards you and each 
 time the loop is left around the needle, forming a link in the chain 
 stitch. Double Chain Stitch is done much the same, only the thread 
 is twisted. (See cut 8.) 
 
 KNOT STITCH. 
 
 The centers of flowers are usually made in this stitch, in all kinds 
 of fancy embroidery. To form the knot, bring the needle up 
 through the material at the place where you wish to place the knot ; 
 
8 
 
 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 wind the silk twice around the needle and then put the needle back 
 in precisely the place where it has come up. Draw the silk 
 
 Cut No. 9. 
 
 through carefully, to avoid tangling-, and the twist thus formed be- 
 comes a knot. (Cut 9.) 
 
 BLANKET STITCH 
 
 Is used for finishing the edges of blankets, the edges of chair or 
 table scarfs, valances for windows or mantels. It is a button-hole 
 stitch in reality and made in fanciful designs, by sloping the needle 
 to the right and left, or by making two or more stitches close to- 
 gether, then leaving a space between, and so on. It is also very 
 
 Cut No. 10. 
 
 Cut No. II. 
 
 pretty in effect to work a second row over the first row with a differ- 
 ent shade or color of silk. 
 
 This stitch will be found useful for many purposes, as it makes 
 firm an edge when material of another kind is to be applied. (See 
 cut No. 10.) 
 
 The stitch, as seen in cut No. 1 1, is one used for joining the edges 
 of flannel and for many uses in fancy needle-work. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK, 9 
 
 HEM STITCHING. 
 
 Hem Stitch is used for handkerchiefs, linen collars and cuffs, the 
 edges of fine ruffles, etc., etc. A few threads are first drawn out 
 where the hem is to be fastened down. The drawn threads are then 
 separated with the needle, taking up each time about the same num- 
 
 Cut No 12. 
 
 ber of threads to keep the work even, and the stitch taken twice in 
 the same place ; this secures the stitch, and forms the little open 
 space which gives the ornamental finish to an otherwise plain hem. 
 An examination of the cut, and a little ingenuity, will enable one to 
 make this stitch better than written instructions could possibly do. 
 (See cut No. 12.) 
 
 RAILWAY STITCH. 
 
 Called thus because so rapidly worked, is very pretty for wheat 
 ears (cut 13), and in many other ways it can be introduced, making 
 very effective work. No running out is necessary ; the tracing 
 being done, the needle is placed exactly through the two parts of 
 the tracing that the stitch is to cover, then the cotton or silk is 
 twisted round the needle, as in Knot Stitch, as many times as is 
 required to cover the space or stitch. In the cut given it is wound 
 round ten times ; the needle is then pulled through the work and 
 that stitch is complete. 
 
 FEATHER (OR CORAL) STITCH. 
 
 This stitch which is illustrated by cuts No. 14 and 15, is found 
 useful in many kinds of fancy needlework, besides being used in 
 joining the seams of flannel, a description is unnecessary as the 
 cuts fully explain the manner of forming the stitch. 
 
lO 
 
 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK, 
 
 BARDEN STITCH 
 
 Is a flat conching used much in silk embroideries. It is useful 
 in applique embroidery, and is worked by laying down a line of 
 filloselle, to secure which a thread of another color should be 
 brought up from the back of the material on one side the filloselle 
 
 Cut No. 13. Cut No. 14. 
 
 and carried back on the other. The stitches which secure the 
 filloselle should be perfectly equal in their distances from each 
 other. Gold cords, and edging cords of all kinds are best fastened 
 down in the same way, using fine sewing silk to fasten them on 
 with. When the outline is finished, a small hole should be pierced 
 with a stilletto in the material, and the cord cut off and passed 
 through on the other side where it is fastened. 
 
KENSINGTON NEEDLEWORK, 
 
 OR CREWEL WORK. 
 
 This style of embroidery is at present taking rank as one of the 
 most popular and pleasing forms of fancy needlework, It is easy 
 of execution, so that a mere novice in embroidery may do very 
 pretty and artistic work, while really beautiful works of art are 
 sometimes produced by experts. Very much of course depends 
 upon individual taste in this, as in all kinds of fancy work. It has 
 been called by some, " needle painting," and an excellent way to 
 shade in the different colors of this embroidery, is to copy the 
 natural flower or leaf as in painting with the brush, or to take a 
 painting or fine chromo lithograph, and copy exactly the shading ; 
 this is perhaps easier for an amateur than copying direct from 
 nature. 
 
 MATERIAL. 
 
 The crewel which is used in this work, is a strong two threaded 
 woolen yarn, differing materially from zephyr and other yarns in 
 texture and twist. It is made in all the soft beautiful colors not 
 found in other yarns, which render it particularly suitable for the 
 proper imitation of the soft blending tints of natural leaves and 
 flowers. There is also a silk, caWtdfilloselle, or filling floss, which 
 introduced into the shading of the leaves or flowers gives a much 
 richer and finer effect. Two or three threads of \.\\& Jilloselle are 
 used, when in conjunction with the crewel, which makes about the 
 same sized thread. This floss should not be used on cotton goods, 
 but only on felts, plushes, satins, etc., etc. 
 
 The work may either be done in a frame, or in the hand. Nearly 
 all embroidery, on work of large size, can be more neatly worked 
 in a frame, and where the work is too long to be placed in a frame 
 at once, it can be put in one section at a time. 
 
12 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 In use, the frame rests upon the lap of the worker, the left arm 
 is placed inside, so that the arm rests upon the bottom board. 
 The downward stitch is taken with the right hand, and the upward 
 stitch taken with the left hand, so that the left hand is always kept 
 below, while the right hand is above the work. Many persons find 
 it a little slower to use the left hand in this way, but practice will 
 overcome any such difficulty. 
 
 When working with silks or flosses, the hands should be kept 
 smooth and free from rings upon which the silk is apt to become 
 entangled. 
 
 Some use the floss wholly in executing small designs upon satin 
 or plush, as it makes finer work, but for large pieces of work, the 
 crewel with an occasional strong light thrown in with silk is quite 
 as effective. 
 
 If one is situated so they cannot obtain a frame ready made, 
 almost any carpenter can construct one. It should be arranged 
 with holes at each end of the sides which can be kept secure with 
 pegs. A strip of cotton cloth should be fastened by small nails to 
 the frame, and the work secured by long stitches to this cloth. If 
 satin or any other material is used, which will fray easily, a piece 
 of muslin should be carefully basted all over the edge of the 
 material, and then attached by that to the frame. 
 
 THE STITCHES AND MODE OF WORKING. 
 
 The stitch itself is exceedingly simple, and the least mechanical 
 of all the stitches used in fancy work. 
 
 ; 
 
 Cut No. i6. Cut No. 17. 
 
 A knot being made in the worsted it is brought from the under 
 side of the material to the surface ; the needle is then passed back 
 again from the upper side, leaving the stitch a .quarter of an inch, 
 more or less, on the upper side. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 13 
 
 The length of the stitches should be left entirely to the judg- 
 ment of the worker, who will make them longer or shorter, 
 according to the space to be covered, or the texture of the material 
 wrought upon. The stitches should be smoothly and evenly laid 
 and should, when done, resemble the woof of satin, but as will be 
 seen by examination of the cuts, No. 18 and No. 19, the stitches 
 
 Cut No. 18. 
 
 Cut No. iQ. 
 
 are not to be laid evenly side by side and of equal lengths, 
 like satin embroidery, but more like the hatching, in water-color 
 drawing, one line dove-tailing into another, so that no abrupt ter- 
 minations are seen. 
 
 The outline of the work should first be covered ; begin at the 
 lower end of the stalk or flower, and work on until the outline is 
 crossed by a leaf, or terminates in a ilower, then pass the needle to 
 the other side and work back again to the lower end : then work 
 another line of stitches inside of the outline, until the stalk is filled 
 up. The outline of the design should always be evenly and closely 
 followed, but the interior of the petal or leaf must be filled in, 
 according to the shape. (Cut No. 21). 
 
 The stalk of a flower should never be worked across, but invar- 
 iably lengthways. In shading much depends upon the taste of the 
 worker ; those who have a knowledge of drawing and 
 coloring will find it very easy to produce fine effects in this work. 
 The principal fault to guard against is stiffness, for while Crewel 
 designs are hardly expected to be in every respect true to nature, 
 yet they should never have that set appearance which is found in 
 
14 
 
 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 cotton embroidery, therefore preserve as far as possible the prom- 
 inent characteristics of the plant or flower which you are trying to 
 imitate. 
 
 After the work is finished and taken from the frame, it generally 
 
 Cut No. zo. 
 
 Cut No. 21. 
 
 appears somewhat drawn or puckered. This is remedied by stretch- 
 ing the work, tight and smooth, face downward on an ironing table, 
 after which place a damp cloth over the surface of the work, and 
 run a hot iron over it, when it has been thus steamed, run the iron 
 over it until it is perfectly dr3^ and the work will be found smooth 
 and even. 
 
 ARRASENE EMBROIDERY. 
 
 A new material for artistic embroidery, called Arrasene, has 
 recently been introduced, which is likely to supersede Filloselle 
 and Crewels in all kinds of bold designs in decorative needlework. 
 It is a kind of fine chenile, and comes in both silk and wool, in all 
 the beautiful varieties of color necessary for shading. It is suitable 
 thus not only for all kinds of home decoration, but also for embroid- 
 ering articles of wearing apparel, and it is equally suitable for the 
 finest fabrics, as well as the cheaper materials used in needle- 
 work. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 15 
 
 It is very easy to work, and much more rapidly done than the 
 crewel work, although much the same stitch is required, cording or 
 stem-stitch being about the best stitch to use, with this difference, 
 that the stitch should be about a quarter of an inch on the surface 
 of the material, and a much shorter stitch used underneath, which 
 is not only more economical in the use of the Arrasene, but also 
 brings the fibres closer together on the work, giving a richer appear- 
 ance to it when finished. Sometimes in smaller fiowers on velvet. 
 
 Cut X.i. 2; 
 
 or plush, it is sewed upon the surface without being drawn through. 
 A chenile or rug needle should be used, with an eye large enough 
 to let the thread pass through without displacing the fibre, and also 
 that the fibre should not be injured in passing through the material. 
 
 It is not necessary to use a frame in working small designs, but 
 larger ones are more easily thus kept in place. If the work becomes 
 drawn in working, it can be straightened by first covering a board 
 with a wet cloth, and then firmly pinning the work to the board, 
 with the wrong side dov/n, over the wet cloth, and allowing it to 
 remain until the cloth is perfectly dry ; this takes out the irregu- 
 larities, and leaves the work smooth. 
 
 We have recently seen some window lambrequins, or valances, 
 
l6 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 worked in Arrasene ; the material was olive sateen, with a border 
 of fleur de lis, tulips, lilacs, jonquils, ferns, and grasses. Below the 
 work was a band of maroon plush, edged with fringe corresponding 
 in color. All these flowers, it will be noticed, are bold in design, 
 and the effect of color, light, and shade was very fine. 
 
 A NEW STITCH 
 
 Has recently been introduced into art embroidery, which is called 
 Plush Stitch. By its use Sumach, Cockscomb, Golden Rod, Prin- 
 cess Feather, Love-Lies-Bleeding, and similar flowers which before 
 could only be veiy imperfectly represented, can now be closely 
 imitated both in texture and coloring. 
 
 To work it, the outline of the flower should be first filled up with 
 large French knots of the prevailing color ; (see cut No. 9), then, 
 using button-hole twist, bring the needle up between the knots, 
 lay a doubled strand of filling floss on the face of the work, against 
 the needle f take the needle back, after crossing the floss, at about 
 the same place it came up, so that when the needle is drawn down, 
 the stitch has caught the filling silk about a quarter of an inch from 
 its end ; draw the stitch tightly, and the filling silk will spring up 
 straight, then clip off with a pair of sharp scissors, and one stitch is 
 completed ; repeat until the knots in the background are nearly 
 covered. It is not easy to describe, but a little practice and judge- 
 ment in the clipping, will produce very charming effects, much 
 resembling the real flower. Care should be taken that the stitches 
 do not entirely cover the knots, but only partially, as too great 
 closeness of the stitches is apt to give a heavy appearance to the 
 work when finished. 
 
 In the Cockscomb, the upper part, or comb, should be worked 
 •with a rich velvety crimson ; the stitches should be very close, and 
 clipped quite long, the convolutions of the comb being represented 
 by using three shades of crimson. The lower part from the stem 
 up to the comb, shows the green seeds, this is imitated by making 
 the knots of dead green crewel, and a few of the plush stitches 
 interspersed, using a single thread of the floss made of both red 
 and green. Clip these a little closer than the comb itself, and use 
 the red more freely as it approaches the comb. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 17 
 
 OUTLINE WORK 
 
 Is a popular work at present. It is suitable for many things, but 
 especially in favor for splashers, doylies, and the ends of towels, etc., 
 using for this purpose red or black cotton only. Some prefer to 
 
 Cut No. 23. 
 
 work in color, and for such, there is a kind of etching silk which 
 comes expressly for the work and will stand washing — the plain 
 colors are, however, greatly preferable. 
 
 The stitch used is simply a stem or outline stitch. (Cuts 22 
 and 23.) 
 
i8 
 
 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 CRETONNE EMBROIDERY 
 
 Is similar to Applique, only instead of cutting out designs of cloth 
 or velvet, the designs are cut from cretonne and sateen such as is 
 used for upholstering. The pattern should be cut out with a fine 
 pair of scissors ; lay them face downward and paste carefully with 
 very fine gum arabic, or a little starch, then lay upon the fabric, 
 where you have previously arranged to place them, and the 
 gum or starch will keep them in place. Soft floss silk is the 
 best for cretonne edges, and the work must be carefully done 
 in close fine satin stitch, blending with color the silk and cre- 
 tonne. 
 
 CANVAS WORK 
 
 In all its varieties is so common that description is unnecessary'. 
 We give diagrams of the most common stitches used, such as 
 
 
 Cut No. 24. 
 
 Cut No. 25. 
 
 single and cross stitch, cuts 24 and 25 ; also a few cuts illustrating 
 fancy borders, corners, etc., used in this work. 
 
 Cuts 29 and 30 are stitches often used in various kinds of fancy 
 work. 
 
 SPANISH LACE WORK. 
 
 A very pretty style of embroidery is that of basting upon the 
 edge of a lambrequin of satin or plush, a piece of Spanish lace of a 
 well-defined pattern of flowers and leaves, and then working over the 
 pattern with bright colors of embroidery silk, in satin stitch, in some 
 places covering wholly the pattern, and other parts only partially. 
 
 Both black and white lace are used, and with very good effect, 
 according to the color of the material used for the foundation. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 19 
 
 BEAD EMBROIDERY 
 
 Is one of the novelties in decorative needlework. 
 
 Colored metal beads are made the same as cut steel, and colored 
 with transparent lacquer, allowing the metallic luster of the bead to 
 show through. They produce very pleasing effects when used on 
 material sucn as satin or plush. 
 
 In using them a stitch much like the crewel stitch is used, as 
 many beads being strung on at each stitch as is necessary for the 
 length of stitch desired. As the colors can be varied with each 
 stitch, the work can be very jjrettily shaded. 
 
 Cut No. 26. 
 
 Cut No. 27 
 
 LATTICE-WORK EMBROIDERY. 
 
 A novelty in artistic needlework has just appeared, called Lattice- 
 work Embroidery. It is used for table-scarfs as a whole, or in 
 borders, also for the borders of portierres, lambrequins, etc. It 
 receives its name from the manner in which it is worked. 
 
 It is treated thus : Place a fine gold cord, or a thread of pale 
 yellow silk in Borden stitch, diagonally, about one inch apart, across 
 the material to be decorated, then place the threads in the opposite 
 direction which covers the material in diagonal squares. A design 
 is then stamped over these squares, of some trailing pattern, such 
 as clematis, woodbine, etc. (or a spray of wild roses, or dogwood, 
 is also very pretty), and^ this is worked in crewel or filloselle em- 
 
20 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 broidery. When it is completed, it has the effect of a vine or shrub 
 creeping over lattice-work. 
 
 It is very pretty worked the same way on blue felt or plush, giv- 
 ing the effect of sky. Linen worked in this way, with the lattice- 
 work in olive silk, and a spray of woodbine in bright colors trailing 
 over it, edged with a fringe for tidies, etc., is also verjj pretty. 
 
 WORKING MATERIAL. 
 
 There are several kinds of canvas used in fancy work. 
 
 Worsted Canvas worked in cross-stitch in the different colors 
 of fancy silks, or crewels, makes very pretty tidies, table covers, 
 bureau covers, etc. It comes in all the shades of red, blue, buff, 
 
 Cut N 
 
 and in black and white, while the width is the same as in most 
 other canvases, viz. : half yard, three-fourths yard, one yard, and 
 one yard and a half. 
 
 Java Canvas comes in linen and cotton, and the worsted can- 
 vas mentioned before belongs to this style of canvas. It comes 
 in almost all shades, and is put to almost all uses. 
 
 Mummy Canvas is in appearance much Hke the mummy cloth, 
 it is woven in irregular meshes, and is the natural linen color. It 
 may be worked in crewel zephyr, or silk, and is used for chair seats, 
 or cushions, sofa pillows, etc., etc. There are a variety of fancy 
 canvases more or less used, but these given are the standard. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 21 
 
 In cloth fabrics there is also a large variety which are used in the 
 various kinds of fancy work. These include felt, mummy cloth, 
 broadcloth, and Canton flannel, which now comes in all the fash- 
 ionable shades of olive, old gold, maroon, blue, pink, etc., and is 
 much used for table covers, lambrequins, portierres, eic. 
 
 For finer work there is plush, sateen, and satin, and in fact at 
 present almost anything is applied for draperies and fancy decoration. 
 
 In working material, CREWEL has been heretofore mentioned, and 
 takes the lead. It is a soft, glossy, slightly wiry wool, and works 
 as easily as silk. It can be bought in any shade, and is sold in 
 skeins, or by weight. 
 
 The Germantown and Berlin wools are very like in texture 
 and chiefly used in knitting or crotcheting shawls, or house sacks, 
 and embroidering rugs. 
 
 Saxony yarn is much used in crocheting lace for the bottom of 
 flannel skirts, or flannel house sacks, and comes in all shades. 
 
 The silks used mostly are embroidery silk and filloselle, although 
 the old-fashioned saddler's silk is sometimes found useful in making 
 fringes, and also in chain stitching. Filloselle is an untwisted coarse 
 silk, and is composed of a number of threads very slightly twisted, 
 it is very pretty for touching up the strong lights in crewel embroid- 
 ery and is used altogether by many in embroidering small designs 
 on satin or plush, as it shades very prettily, and when the work is 
 finished, if done neatly, has the appearance of satin. 
 
 Chenile, or Arrasene, is now much used in embroidery. It 
 must always be cut in short lengths, as it wears off, after repeatedly 
 being drawn through the work, particularly if the fabric is fine. 
 
 Beads in all colors have been introduced into fancy work, and 
 can be purchased in colors to shade the same as in crewel or silk. 
 
 Gold and Silver threads are used for outlining embroidery. 
 They are quite effective when used judiciously, but are not advisable 
 as they verj soon tarnish and the work loses its beauty to the eye 
 when outlined by a tarnished cord. 
 
 It is impossible in a book of this size to give directions for mak- 
 ing any variety of articles, and yet, perhaps, a few hints or sugges- 
 tions thrown out, might aid those who are too remote from the city 
 or large towns, to receive suggestions from the variety of articles 
 usually displayed for sale in the .stores or shops. 
 
22 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 We have seen a very pretty table cover made of maroon felt, w^ith 
 a pattern in crewel embroidery of daisies, ferns and wheat, worked 
 in the corners. The edge of the cover was finished with a fringe 
 of the prevailing color. 
 
 Pretty table covers may be made of the basket flannel now so 
 much in style, with a border in some simple, pretty design, with a 
 fringe of crewel tied in around the edge. 
 
 A table scarf can be made of any desirable color of felt or sateen ; 
 for the center, have the scarf about one and a half yards long, with 
 a four-inch band of plush of the same or a contrasting color upon 
 the ends. Finish the ends with fringe, or crewel tassels, alternat- 
 ing with small silk balls of different colors. A spray of flowers in 
 embroidery can be worked just above the band of plush if desired. 
 Applique fans, placed just above the border also make a very pretty 
 decoration, or a spray of golden rod worked in plush stitch. 
 
 Pretty table scarfs may be made of felt by embroidering a spray 
 of wild roses, or some other simple flower in one corner, and then 
 tying in a fringe of crewel, or the same may be finished, by cutting 
 out the ends in Vandykes or points, and hanging upon and between 
 each point a tassel made of the felt. To make these tassels, take a 
 piece of felt, three or four inches in width, according to the length 
 of tassel desired, and seven or eight inches long ; cut the felt in nar- 
 row strips, say an eighth of an inch in width, to within a half inch of 
 the entire width, when this is done roll tightly up and fasten, and 
 your tassel is. made, the uncut part answering for the top of the 
 tassel. Embroider this top a little with some bright colored silk in 
 fancy stitches, drawing a thread of twisted silk through the top, 
 with which to fasten it to the material, and you thus have a hand- 
 some and very inexpensive tassel. 
 
 Very pretty mantel lambrequins are made of plain plush of some 
 desirable color, with a spray of wild flowers, golden rod in plush 
 stitch, and daisies, or thistles and buttercups, wild roses, etc., etc., 
 worked upon either end. The ends are cut a little deeper than the 
 remainder of the lambrequin and cut square. Then finished with 
 plush tassels set on about two inches apart, or bordered with a 
 fringe, this makes a lambrequin handsome enough for any par- 
 lor. Mantel valances are simple straight bands from ten to twelve 
 inches in width, and can be made of felt, plush, satin, or in fact 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 23 
 
 almost any fabric to match the room where they are to be placed. 
 They should be edged with fringe or small tassels. 
 
 Valances for windows are made to match, and are quite inex- 
 pensive and very neat, made of felt with a plush of contrasting 
 color used as a border, with fancy stitches placed above the border 
 in embroidery silk. The window valances should be from fifteen 
 to eighteen inches in width according to the height of the room. 
 Some ladies who use the brush in painting, make valances and table 
 scarfs of a material upon which they can use color, or else use a 
 satin border, and upon that paint some pretty design. In all these 
 home decorations much depends upon the taste of the individual, 
 so many pretty things suggest themselves if one has taste and a 
 knowledge of needlework in its various forms. 
 
KNITTING. 
 
 This branch of woman's education has in the past few years been 
 much neglected ; the time was, when our grandmothers would have 
 considered a young lady's education incomplete until she was able 
 at least to knit her own stockings. Knitting machines have done 
 away largely with the necessity of that kind of work, and yet the 
 importance of knitting can hardly be overestimated, as a machine 
 can never reach the perfection of hand-knit articles. Supposing 
 that our readers have all learned the stitch, we will give only the 
 terms used in knitting. The first term used is to cast oti, which 
 is done by making a loop and placing it on the needle which is held 
 in the left hand ; when with the right hand needle you knit it off 
 without removing the needle out of the first stitch. Having done 
 this pass the second stitch on the needle and so continue until the 
 required number is cast on. 
 
 When a piece of work is completed, knit two stitches with the 
 left hand and pull the first over the second, knit another stitch and 
 pull the first over the second, and repeat this until only one stitch 
 remains, when you are to pull your thread through this and fasten 
 it securely ; this is called casting off. 
 
 To INCREASE a stitch, take one loop over the needle, and proceed 
 as before, and it will be found that on the following row, by knitting 
 this loop, a stitch will have been gained and an open stitch left in 
 the knitting. 
 
 To DECREASE a stitch, knit two stitches together; this is called 
 narrowing. 
 
 To Seam or Purl, the right hand needle is slipped in the loop 
 in front of the left one, and the thread after passing between the 
 two is brought round it ; it is then worked as before. The thread 
 is always brought forward before beginning a purled stitch. 
 
 To SLIP A STITCH, is merely to pass a stitch from the left hand 
 needle to right hand needle without knitting it. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 25 
 
 We give below directions for edgings and many other useful 
 articles. 
 
 KNITTED LACE 
 
 For edging flannel skirts, sacks, etc., knit of Saxony yarn. 
 
 Take up fourteen stitches, knit across once plain, slip off the 
 first stitch without knitting, knit four, narrow the rest of the 
 stitches, putting thread over twice each time. There will be one 
 stitch left, knit that, putting thread over twice. Knit back plain, 
 and you will have five holes caused by the loops formed by putting 
 thread over twice. Then slip off one, knit five, narrow and knit 
 back plain as before. Next time knit six plain, and so on until 
 you have made five holes six times, that is, until you have six 
 rows of five holes. Then knit across twice plain, a slip and 
 bind once, narrow five times, putting thread over twice, knit 
 the rest of the stitches plain d. Repeat from a to d till only 
 fourteen stitches arc left on the needle. This finishes one scallop. 
 
 NARROW EDGE. 
 
 Cast on eight stitches ; knit across plain. 
 
 1. Slip one, knit one, thread over twice, seam two together, knit 
 two, thread over twice, knit one, thread over once, knit one. 
 
 2. Knit four, purl one, knit two, thread over twice, seam two 
 together, knit two. 
 
 3. Slip one, knit one, thread over twice, seam two together, the 
 rest plain. 
 
 4. Bind off three, knit three, thread over twice, seam two to- 
 gether, knit two. 
 
 Begin again. 
 
 NARROW EDGING. 
 
 Cast on eleven stitches. 
 
 1. Knit three, make one, narrow one, knit one, make one, narrow 
 one, make two, narrow one, knit one. 
 
 2. Knit three, seam one, put back thread, knit two, make one, 
 narrow one, knit one, make one, narrow one, knit one. 
 
 3. Knit three, make one, narrow one, knit one, make one, nar- 
 row one, knit four. 
 
26 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 4. Knit two, slip and bind, knit four, make one, narrow one, 
 make one, narrow one, knit one. 
 
 LEAF EDGING. 
 
 Cast on twenty-six stitches ; knit back plain. 
 
 1. Knit two, over, narrow, knit one, over, knit two, slip one, 
 narrow, throw slipped stitch over, knit two, over, knit one, over, 
 and knit two, slip one, narrow, throw slipped stitch over, knit two, 
 over, knit two, over, narrow, over twice, knit two. There are now 
 twenty-eight stitches. 
 
 2. Knit three, purl one, knit one, over, narrow, purl seventeen, 
 knit one, over, narrow, knit one. 
 
 3. Knit two, over, narrow, knit two, over, knit one, slip one, 
 narrow, throw slipped stitch over, knit one, over, knit three, over, 
 knit one, slip one, narrow, slip stitch over, knit one, over, knit 
 three, over, narrow, knit four. There are twenty-eight stitches. 
 
 4. Knit five, over, narrow, purl seventeen, knit one, over, narrow, 
 knit one. 
 
 5. Knit two, over, narrow, knit three, over, slip one, narrow, 
 throw slipped stitch over, over, knit five, over, slip one, narrow, 
 throw slipped one over, over, knit four, over, narrow, over twice, 
 narrow, over twice, knit two. 
 
 6. Knit three, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit one, over, nar- 
 row, purl seventeen, knit one, over, narrow, knit one. Thirty-one 
 stitche . 
 
 7. Knit two, over, narrow, narrow, knit two, over, knit one, over, 
 knit two, slip one, narrow, throw slipped stitch over, knit two, over, 
 knit one, over, knit two, slip one, knit one, slip stitch over, knit 
 one, over, narrow, knit seven. 
 
 8. Knit eight, over, narrow, purl seventeen, knit one, over, nar- 
 row, knit one. 
 
 9. Knit two, over, narrow, narrow, knit one, over, knit three, 
 over, knit one, slip one, narrow, slipped stitch over, knit one, over, 
 knit three, over, knit one, slip one, knit one, slipped stitch over, 
 knit one, over, narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, 
 over twice, narrow, knit one. Thirty-four stitches remain. 
 
 10. Knit three, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, purl one. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 2^ 
 
 knit one, over, narrow, purl seventeen, knit one, over, narrow, knit 
 one. 
 
 11. Knit two, over, narrow, narrow, over, knit five, over, slip one, 
 narrow, slip stitch over, over, knit five, over, slip one, knit one, slip 
 stitch over, knit one, over, narrow, knit ten. 
 
 12. Cast off eight stitches, knit two, over, narrow, purl seventeen, 
 knit one, over, narrow, knit one. This finishes one scallop. 
 
 SOLID POINT LACE. 
 
 • Cast on sixteen stitches. 
 
 1. Knit three plain, thread over twice, purl two together, knit 
 two, thread over twice, narrow, thread over twice, narrow, knit 
 five. 
 
 2. Knit seven, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, thread over 
 twice, purl two together, knit three. 
 
 3. Knit three, thread over twice, purl two together, knit thir- 
 teen. 
 
 4. Knit thirteen, thread over twice, purl two together, knit 
 three. 
 
 5. Knit three, thread over twice, purl two together, knit two, 
 thread over twice, narrow, thread over twice, narrow, thread over 
 twice, narrow, knit five. 
 
 6. Knit seven, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, purl one, 
 knit two, thread over twice, purl two together, knit three. 
 
 7. Knit three, thread over twice, purl two together, knit six- 
 teen. 
 
 8. Bind off five stitches, or till you have sixteen stitches on 
 both needles, knit ten, thread over twice, purl two together, knit 
 three. 
 
 Commence at first row. 
 
 KNITTING PATTERN FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES. 
 
 This pattern is suitable for making many useful little articles. 
 It is pretty for babies' blankets cxr cot covers lined with silk, or 
 knitted in very coarse wool for traveling rugs. Different kinds of 
 wool must, of course, be selected, according to purpose for which 
 the knitting is intended. 
 
28 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by four, and allow 
 besides one for each end. 
 
 1. Slip one, * make one, slip one, knit three, draw the slipped 
 stitch over the three knitted ones, repeat from *, knit one. 
 
 2. Knit one, purl all but last stitch, which knit plain. 
 
 3. Same as first row. 
 
 4. Same as second row. 
 
 Repeat the first and second rows alternately, till of the desired 
 length. 
 
 To make a stitch, simply bring the wool forward as for seaming. 
 
 CHILD'S KNITTED COLLAR. 
 
 Use forty, fifty, or sixty cotton, with corresponding needles. 
 Cast on twenty -eight stitches. 
 
 I. Knit three, narrow, knit two, over, knit one, over, narrow, 
 over, narrow, over, knit two, narrow, knit four, narrow, knit two, 
 over, knit one, over, narrow, over, knit one. 
 
 The second, fourth, and other even rows are purled. 
 
 3. Knit two, narrow, knit two, over, knit three, over, narrow, 
 over, narrow, over, knit two, narrow, knit two, narrow, knit two, 
 over, knit three, over, narrow, over, knit one. 
 
 5. Knit one, narrow, knit two, over, knit five, over, narrow, 
 over, narrow, over, knit two, narrow twice, knit two, over, knit five 
 over, narrow, over, knit one. 
 
 7. Knit six, narrow, knit two, over, narrow, over, knit one, over, 
 knit one, over, knit two, narrow, knit two, narrow, knit one, narrow, 
 knit two, over, narrow, over, narrow. 
 
 9. Knit five, narrow, knit two, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, 
 knit three, over, knit two, narrow, knit two, narrow, knit two, over, 
 narrow, over, narrow. 
 
 II. Knit four, narrow, knit two, over, narrow, over, narrow, 
 over, knit five, over, knit two, narrow twice, knit two, over, narrow, 
 over, narrow. 
 
 KNITTED SKIRT. 
 
 The color can be red, drab, white or blue. Five skeins of Ger- 
 mantown wool is required, and large needles, (same as for Afghan.) 
 Cast on one hundred and nine stitches. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 29 
 
 1. Seam across. 
 
 2. Knit plain. 
 
 Scallop now begins. Slip first stitch, put worsted over, knit four 
 plain, slip one, narrow one and bind, knit four plain, put worsted 
 over, knit one, put worsted over, knit four, slip one, narrow one 
 and bind, knit four plain, etc. At the end of needle seam back, 
 when you have made five slips and binds in one scallop, knit plain 
 one row, seam next row, then plain one row, then begin scallop as 
 before. 
 
 KNITTED SILK MITTENS. 
 
 Here is a simple pattern, knit with two steel needles (the very 
 finest) and two balls of knitting silk. 
 
 Cast on eighty stitches, knit plain both ways, forming a rib with 
 each back and forth. 
 
 * Knit twenty ribs, widening at the top of the needle each rib 
 except last two. Knit twenty ribs, narrowing at the top of the 
 needle each rib except first two. Knit three ribs plain. Repeat 
 from *. Bind off. 
 
 For the thumb cast on twenty-two stitches. 
 
 * Knit seven ribs, widening at the top and bottom of the needle 
 for each rib. Knit seven ribs, narrowing at the top and widening 
 at the bottom of the needle for each rib. Knit one rib plain. 
 Repeat from *, only narrowing instead of widening at bottom of 
 needle. Bind off all but three at bottom of needle for thumb gus- 
 set. Knit six ribs, widening at top of the needle for each rib. Knit 
 six ribs, narrowing at the top of the needle for each rib. Bind off. 
 Sew together. 
 
 This makes a loose wrist. If a tight wrist is wished cast on 
 only sixty stitches in the beginning and when the mitten is sewed 
 together, take up the stitches of the wrist on four needles, knitting 
 two plain and one purl, alternately for as many rounds as desired. 
 
 KNITTED GLOVES. 
 
 Cast on eighteen stitches on two needles, and nineteen on the 
 third needle. 
 
 I. Knit one, put the yarn back, take off one stitch, knit one, put 
 
30 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 the yarn back, take off one and knit the next one, and so on all 
 round. 
 
 2. Put the yarn back, take off the single stitch, knit the stitch and 
 loop as one stitch, and so on all round (putting the yarn back and 
 taking off the single stitch and knitting the double stitch every 
 time) until you have knit it four inches and a half long, then take 
 off fifteen stitcheS on to a thread for the thumb, cast on fifteen 
 stitches on a needle to take the place of those taken off, and then 
 knit round as before until you have knit two and one-fourth inches, 
 then drop off thirteen stitches on a thread for the little finger, then 
 cast on three stitches on a needle to take the place of those taken 
 off, then knit round four times the same as before. For the next 
 finger drop off on to a thread seventeen stitches, then cast on five 
 stitches to take the place of those taken off', knit round once, then 
 take off on to a thread nineteen stitches for the middle finger, and 
 cast six stitches to take the place of those taken off, then knit till 
 the finger is long enough, and then narrow off as you would a 
 stocking. 
 
 SHELL FOR KNITTED COUNTERPANE. 
 
 With No. C Dexter cotton and medium-sized steel needles cast on 
 44 stitches. Knit ist, 3d and 5th rows plain. 2d r6w : Knit 2 
 .together, over; repeat this 21 times, then knit 2 together. 
 
 4th row : Knit 2 together and over, 21 times, knit i. 
 
 6th row : Slip i, knit 2, narrow, knit the rest plain. 
 
 7th row : Slip i, knit 2, narrow, purl all but 4, knit these plain. 
 
 The 8th, 9th, nth, 12th, 14th, 15th, 17th, i8th, 20th, 21st, 
 23d, 24th, 26th, 27th, 29th, 30th, 32d, 33d, 35th, 36th, 38th, 39th, 
 40th, 41st, and 42d rows are all knit like the 6th row. 
 
 The loth, 13th, i6th, 19th, 22d, 25th, 28th, 31st, 34th and 37th 
 rows are all knit like the 7th row. 
 
 43d row : Slip i, knit 2, narrow, knit 2. 
 
 44th row: Slip i, knit i, narrow, knit i. 
 
 45th row. Slip I, narrow, knit i. 
 
 46th row : Slip i, narrow, slip the first stitch over the last and 
 draw the thread through. 
 
 In joining these shells place each narrowed point to the cent«=>r 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 31 
 
 of the first row of another shell, and allow all the points to run 
 downward, then one can easily see where the other shells join in, 
 and sew together. 
 
 INFANT'S KNITTED SHIRT. 
 
 One skein of cream white Shetland wool. Two quite fine bone 
 needles. The following are the directions for one-half of the gar- 
 ment, which is joined under the arms : 
 
 1. Cast on 82 stitches. 
 
 2. Purl across. 
 
 3. Knit across plain. 
 
 4. Slip off first stitch, narrow i, 2 plain, thread over and knit i, 
 thread over and knit 2, narrow 2, knit 2, thread over and knit i, 
 thread over and knit 2, narrow 2, knit 2, etc., across. 
 
 5. Purl across, 
 
 6. Same as 4. 
 
 7. Knit across plain. 
 
 8. Purl across. 
 
 9. Knit across plain. 
 
 10. Begin at 4 and so on to 10 until you have four times knitted 
 the inclusive rows, and you will have four rows of scallops, which 
 form the bottom of the shirt. 
 
 Then knit 2 plain, purl 2, 2 plain, purl 2, and so across. Make 
 45 rows in this manner, being careful to have them match, so as to 
 give the work the appearance of seaming. 
 
 Cast on 16 stitches for the shoulder. Then knit across the entire 
 width, shoulder and body. Purl across. Knit 2, thread over and 
 knit I, narrow i, knit 2, etc., across. This last row makes a row of 
 holes, through which narrow ribbon can be drawn to make the 
 neck smaller, if desired. Bind off. 
 
 The sleeve is made of the four rows of scalloping in the same 
 way as that round the bottom of the body, and joined to the 
 shoulder. 
 
 INFANT'S SOCKS. 
 
 It takes about two bunches of zephyr worsted, say one of white 
 and one of blue. 
 
32 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 Cast on forty-seven stitches, knit back and forth until you have 
 four rows, put on the other color, knit back and forth plain, then 
 knit two together, narrow, two together, narrow, two together, to 
 end of needle, knit back plain. Take the other color, knit plain until 
 you have three rows, again take the other color, knit two together, 
 narrow, same as before, for rows of holes for strings. Then knit 
 plain again until you have five rows of plain. 
 
 Cast off on a string seventeen stitches, knit thirteen, cast off on 
 string seventeen, knit the thirteen plain, back and forth, until you 
 have fifteen rows on right side. 
 
 Take up stitches on left hand first, same as heel of a stocking, 
 which will be fifteen, same number as rows, then knit the seventeen 
 you cast off on string. Knit round to the other side, take up same 
 as before, put on the other color for foot. Knit round back and 
 forth until you have ten rows on right side, narrow on each end 
 until you have thirteen rows, then knit in middle, double together 
 and bind off. 
 
 These socks are finished with a crocheted scallop at the top and 
 a cord run through the lower row of holes. Finish each end of 
 cord with pretty tassels. 
 
 KNITTED TIDY. 
 
 With No. lo cotton cast on 31 stitches, ist row: knit 15, narrow, 
 knit thirteen, make i, knit i. 2d row, purl 15, purl 2 together, 
 purl 13, make i, purl i. 3d row same as ist : 4th row same as 2d ; 
 5th row same as ist ; 6th row same as ist; 7th row same as 2d, 
 etc., reversing the 6th row so that it "will come in ribs. The strips 
 may be knit any length desired according to the size you want your 
 tidy ; also you can vary the number of strips. Sew or crochet the 
 strips together and finish with a fringe at both ends. 
 
 BABY'S COUVRETTE. 
 
 This pattern makes a series of holes, and is pretty knitted in 
 white with narrow blue or pink ribbon run through the holes, and 
 with bows at the corners. 
 
 Cast on any number of stitches which can be divided by seven. 
 
 1st row : Thread forward, slip i, knit i, pass the slipped stitch 
 over the knitted one, knit 5. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 33 
 
 2d row : Purl. 
 
 3d row: Thread forward, slip i, knit i, pass slipped stitch over, 
 knit I, purl 3, knit i. 
 
 4th row: Purl i, knit i, thread forward, knit 2 together, purl 3. 
 
 5th row: Thread forward, slip i, knit i, pass slipped stitch over, 
 knit I, purl 3, knit i. 
 
 6th row : Purl. 
 
 7th row: Thread forward, slip i, knit i, pass slipped stitch over, 
 knit 5. 
 
 8th row : Purl. 
 
 Begin again at 3d row. 
 
 KNITTED UNDER-DRAWERS. 
 
 The material is four-thread fleecy wool or yarn of equiv- 
 alent quality. A pair of No. 4 needles and some No. 8 
 needles are required. The wool may be either scarlet, white or 
 chinchilla. With No. 8 needles cast on 200 stitches for the body 
 and I extra. This one extra stitch is to be marked by a colored 
 thread in the middle of the work to form a center to the body. 
 1st row : knit plain 100 stitches, purl i (the center stitch), knit plain 
 100. 2d row : knit 2, purl 2, repeat to end of row. 3d row : knit 
 2, purl 2, repeat to end of row. Then repeat the last row 3 times 
 more. In the 7th row increase a stitch (by putting wool over the 
 needle) on each side the center stitch. All the rest of the row is 
 knit 2, purl 2. 8th row: like 2d row. 9th, loth and nth rows 
 the same. 1 2th row : like 7th row. Next 4 rows like 2d row. 
 17th row: Hke 7th row. Go on in this manner, increasing a stitch 
 on each side the center stitch in every fifth row, until you have 
 worked 68 rows. Then divide the stitches in half for the legs, 
 Knit on the first half of the stitches 16 plain rows, still keeping the 
 rib of 2 plain and 2 purl. Now, at the 17th row, with four needles, 
 join the work and knit 1 1 rounds, 2 plain, 2 purl. Twelfth round : 
 decrease i (that is, knit 2 together) on each side of the seam 
 stitch, which now is the stitch where the work is joined.* Thir- 
 teenth, 14th and 15th rounds, ribbed by knitting 2 plain, 2 purl, as 
 above. Sixteenth round : decrease i on each side the seam stitch 
 again. Repeat from *, knitting 4 ribbed rounds as above between 
 each round of decreasing. Work in this manner until you have 
 3 
 
34 
 
 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 only 54 stitches left on the needles. Now knit 20 rows of knit i, 
 purl I, and cast off loosely. Now take up the stitches on the other 
 leg, and -repeat the above directions exactly. When both legs are 
 finished take up the center stitch of the body and knit a gusset. 
 This is done thus : Knit i, turn, take up the stitch on the last row 
 of leg, knit it, turn, slip the first stitch, knit the next, knit the first 
 stitch on the other leg, turn, shp i, knit 2, increase, knit one on the 
 next leg, turn, shp i, knit 4. Take up one on the next leg, turn, 
 slip one, knit all the rest and take one up at the end of each row 
 until the stitches are all knitted up to the join of the legs. Then 
 continue to knit, decreasing one at the end of each row as you take 
 up the stitches on the other side of the leg, and up the front of the 
 body, until you have only one stitch left ; knit this, take up the 
 stitches on the sides of the two fronts, and knit three rows. Sew 
 over strongly in the front. Then take a crochet needle and crochet 
 a band of ten rows for the waist. 
 
 KNITTED MITTENS. 
 
 With common sized yarn cast on sixty stitches, twenty on each 
 of three needles, and knit with the fourth. 
 
 1. Knit around plain. 
 
 2. Knit six, purl one, then knit seven in this way, viz. : knit one, 
 thread over and knit one, thread over and knit one, until seven are 
 knitted, purl one. Continue this from the beginning with the three 
 needles, and the work will come out even, and end by purling one. 
 
 3. Knit six, purl one, sHp one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch 
 over the knitted one, knit plain to last loop and stitch, which nar- 
 row, purl one, and so on with this round, ending with purl one. 
 
 4. Knit this and succeeding rounds same as the third, until the 
 open-work stripe is narrowed down to seven, then commence again 
 with second round, and knit through the whole until the open-work 
 stripe is narrowed down to seven the second time. 
 
 Now, instead of knitting the six plain, slip off the first three on 
 to a fifth needle, knit last three, then knit the three on the fifth 
 needle, knitting the third stitch last. As will be seen, this twists 
 the first half of the stripe over the last ; in every other yvay this 
 round is same as second, twisting every plain six stitches, and work 
 the whole down to the original seven the second time as before, 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 35 
 
 then twist again, for which use the fifth needle must be kept 
 handy. 
 
 Knit in this way until the wrist is two or three inches long, end- 
 ing with a twist round, and of course there will be seven in the 
 open-work stripe. Carry one purl, twist row, one purl, the over and 
 knit one row, the one purl, twist row, and one purl, up the back, 
 until long enough to narrow off ; knitting remainder of mitten and 
 thumb plain, and the very same way our mothers and grandmothers 
 always did. The mitten fits nicely by narrowing occasionally in- 
 side of the hand, commencing one and one-half inches perhaps 
 beyond the thumb gore. 
 
 If an extra sized mitten is needed, or fine Saxony yarn is used, 
 cast on sixty-eight stitches, and purl two every time instead of one. 
 
 Be careful and not make both mittens for one hand. A small 
 bow and ends of narrow ribbon, same shade or some darker than 
 the mittens, placed at the back, where the wrists and hands join, 
 improve the looks. 
 
 I have seen wristers knit this way that were very pretty. 
 
 One can twist at every third seven, instead of the second, as 
 given, especially with fine yarn. 
 
 FLY FRINGE. 
 
 For tidies, shawls, mats and other articles, whether knitted or 
 crocheted, a simple and common edging, known in the shops as 
 " fly fringe," may be made as follows : 
 
 When several yards of it are required take two studs or nails on 
 opposite sides of a room or as far apart as may be desired. With 
 the cotton or wool to be used, fasten to one of the studs and wind 
 the material around the two studs half a dozen times, or more if a 
 heavy fly is wanted. 
 
 Now take the ball and tie tightly round the loose strands, as they 
 may be called, of this long rope, just below the first stud or nail. 
 Make another tie three-quarters of an inch or an inch lower, not 
 cutting off the thread, but making a tight double hitch. Repeat 
 these double hitches at the same intervals till the second stud is 
 reached. 
 
 Next take a pair of scissors and between each tie cut the threads 
 through, all except the one which was used to make the ties. This 
 
36 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 remains intact from the beginning to the end. The other threads, 
 when severed, form little tufts, bound together by the ties at regu- 
 lar intervals, very much like the insertions in the tail of a boy's kite. 
 The tufts, or flies, can be made larger or smaller by increasing or 
 diminishing the number of threads wound around the studs, and 
 can be placed any distance apart by regulating the double hitches 
 or ties. The fringe can obviously be made of any particular color, 
 or mixture of colors. 
 
 BRIOCHE. 
 
 A pretty style of knitting is known as the Brioche stitch. It is 
 also easy and rapid, and is popular with knitters for a wide range 
 of articles. Here is a comforter for a little boy or girl, which will 
 be a fair example of what it is like. 
 
 With two wooden needles, No. 8 to No. 6, and single zephyr 
 wool, of any desired color, cast on seventy stitches. Knit two plain 
 stitches ; then * make one, slip one, knit two together ; repeat from 
 * till only two stitches are left ; these are to be knit plain. The first 
 two and last two stitches are to be knit plain throughout, and are 
 meant for an edging. The brioche stitch, as will be seen, works in 
 threes. The slip stitch is always to be taken off as in purling. 
 After the first row the stitch to be slipped separates itself from the 
 rest, and the two to be knit as one fall naturally together, so that 
 there is no difficulty in knowing when to slip and when to knit. 
 Remember not to " make one " before the last two edge stitches, as 
 the habit of doing so after knitting two together is almost sure to 
 lead a careless knitter into this mistake. Every row is the same as 
 the first. Continue knitting till the comforter is a yard to a yard 
 and a half long ; then cast off loosely. A knitted fringe can be 
 added to each end if desired. 
 
 LADY'S SLEEVELESS JACKET. 
 
 For a soft, light jacket, 3 fold Berlin wool may be used with No. 
 14 or No. 13 needles. The size of this pattern, as that of many 
 others, may be greatly modified by changing the size of the 
 needles, and using finer or coarser wool to correspond with them. 
 
 The jacket is knitted in brioche stitch, which has already been 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 37 
 
 fully explained. Front and back are knitted separately, and joined 
 with fine sewing. The border, knitted after the directions given, 
 is sewn on separately. Begin the back with 203 stitches. The 3 
 stitches are worked //«/« each row in the middle of the back. — ist 
 row. * Wool forward, slip i, knit i, repeat from * 49 more times. 
 Knit 3, repeat from the first * 50 times. — 2nd row. * Wool forward, 
 shp I, knit 2 together, the two lying over each other, repeat 49 
 more times, knit 3, repeat from the last * 50 times ; knit 2 more 
 rows like the 2nd row. — In the 5th row you begin the decreasings 
 for the hips. Decrease after the first 2 ribs of brioche, and before 
 the two last ; decrease by knitting the slip stitch of the 3rd rib with 
 the two together of the 2nd rib, and the double stitch with the sHp 
 one of the 4th rib. You also decrease after and before the 16 
 stitches or 8 ribs on each side the middle 3 in the same manner. — 
 6th, 7th and 8th rows. Plain Brioche without decreasing. — 9th 
 row. Decrease on each side the middle again, 7 ribs from the mid- 
 dle — 3 rows plain. — 13th row. Decrease on the 6th rib on each 
 side the waist, and also before and after the two first and last 
 ribs. — 3 rows brioche. — 17th low. Decrease in the middle only, as 
 in the 9th row, but on the 5th rib.— 3 rows brioche. — 21st row. 
 Decrease in the 4 places. — 3 rows brioche. — 25th row. Decrease 
 in the waist only. — 3 rows brioche. — 29th row. Decrease 4 times, 
 as in the 21st row. — 3 rows brioche. — 33d row. Knit the same 
 number of ribs before and after the middle, and decrease another 
 rib on each side of it —3 rows brioche. — 37th row. Decrease in all 
 4 places. — 41st row. Like the 33rd row. — 3 rows plain. — 45th row. 
 Like the 33rd row. — 3 rows plain. — * 49th row. Decrease at the 
 ends only. — 3 rows plain. Repeat from * twice more. This brings 
 you to the waist. * You now increase a rib from the side piece of 
 the back every 4th row, making it one stripe further from the mid- 
 dle on • each side ; you increase by bringing wool forward and 
 taking up the stitch between the last on the needles. Knit 3 more 
 rows, then increase on each side and in the back ; repeat from * 
 until you have 6 increasings on each side, which brings you to the 
 armhole. Cast off loosely on each side 10 stitches or 5 ribs, knit 
 64 rows brioche, keeping the seam in the middle. You now de- 
 crease for the shoulders ; this do on each side a whole rib at the 
 beginning of every row. Decrease until there are only 60 on the 
 
38 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 needle, and cast them off loosely. Plain rows mean, of course, plain 
 brioche rows. 
 
 The fronts are knitted alike ; one is given. As the brioche knit- 
 ting is the same on both sides, it can be turned and no alteration is 
 needed in the decreasings. Cast on 108 stitches, knit the two first 
 rows in the manner described for the back, and in the 5th row de- 
 crease after the 2d rib under the arm only. The other edge is kept 
 plain. Decrease after every 6th row of plain brioche, and knit 60 
 rows. Then knit for the piece under the arm ; knit 45 rows, in- 
 creasing every 7th row on the one side, for the waist. You next 
 knit 60 rows. Decrease for the arm by casting off 10 stitches ; knit 
 64 rows, casting off or decreasing one stitch every' other row on the 
 same side, until you have the 64 rows. You now decrease for the 
 shoulder in the same manner as the back ; after the i8th row de- 
 crease for the neck by casting off 8, after this by knitting 2 to- 
 gether every row in beginning the row. Sew the shoulders and 
 jacket together. The border is very handsome, knit in gold silk, 
 and laid over the edge ; the pattern is given below. The neck and 
 armholes are finished by knitting 2 rows of DC. (double crochet), 
 then a row of * 4 Ch., i DC. on the next DC. ; repeat from *. 
 
 For the border cast on 23 stitches, and knit back. — ist row. 
 Slip I, knit I, make i, knit 2, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2 together, 
 knit 2, purl i, knit 2, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2 together, 
 knit 2, make i, knit 2. — 2nd row. Slip i, knit i, purl 4, knit i, 
 purl 3, knit i, purl 3, knit i, purl 4, knit 2. — 3rd row. Slip i, knit 
 I, make i, knit i, make i, knit i, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2 
 together, knit i, purl i, knit i, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2 together, 
 knit I, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2. — 4th row. Slip i, knit i, purl 
 5, knit I, purl 2, knit i, purl 2, knit i, purl 5, knit 2.- — 5th row. Slip 
 I, knit I, make i, knit 3, make i, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2 to- 
 gether, purl I, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 
 3, make i, knit 2. — 6th row. Slip r, knit i, purl 6, knit i, purl i, 
 knit I, purl i, knit i, purl 6, knit 2. — 7th row. Slip i, knit i, make 
 I, knit 5, make i, knit 3 together, purl i, knit 3 together, make i, 
 knit 5, make i, knit 2. — 8th row. Slip i, knit i, purl 8, knit i,purl 
 8, knit 2. — 9th row. Slip i, knit i, make i, knit 7, make i, knit 3 
 together, make i, knit 7, make i, knit 2. — loth row. Slip i, knit i, 
 -purl 19, knit 2, repeat from the ist row. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 39 
 
 KNITTED LACE COLLARS. 
 
 With cotton No. 40 and needles No. 24 cast on fifteen stitches. 
 First row: Knit 2, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2, slip i, knit two 
 together and pass the slipped stitch over; knit 2, make i, knit i, 
 make i, knit two, slip i, knit i and pass the slipped stitch over. 
 
 Second row and every alternate row, purl all but 2 and knit them 
 plain. 
 
 Third row : Knit 2, make i, knit 3, make i, knit i, slip i, knit 2 
 together and pass the slipped stitch over; knit i, make i, knit 3, 
 make i, knit i, slip i, knit i, and pass the slipped stitch over. 
 
 Fifth row : Knit 2, make i, knit 5, make i, slip i, knit 2 together 
 and pass the slipped stitch over; make i, knit 5, make i, slip i, 
 knit I and pass the slipped stitch over. 
 
 Seventh row : Knit 4, slip i, knit 2 together and pass the slipped 
 stitch over; knit 2, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2, slip i, knit 2 to- 
 gether and pass the slipped stitch over; knit 2, make i, knit i. 
 
 Ninth row : Knit 3, slip i, knit 2 together and pass the sHpped 
 stitch over ; knit i, make i, knit 3, make i, knit i, slip i, knit 2 to- 
 gether and pass the slipped stitch over ; knit i, make i, knit 2. 
 
 Eleventh row : Knit 2, slip i, knit 2 together and pass the slipped 
 stitch over ; make i, knit 5, make i, slip i, knit 2 together and pass 
 the sHpped stitch over ; make i, knit 3. 
 
 Twelfth row : As second. Repeat these 12 rows until the work 
 is long enough. Pick up the stitches at the neck and knit one row, 
 taking two together every ten stitches. Knit a few more rows 
 and cast off. Now trim it with the following edging : 
 
 With the same materials and needles cast on 16 stitches and knit 
 back plain. Then — 
 
 First row : Knit 2, * make i, knit 2 together, repeat from * once ; 
 knit 2, * make i, knit 2 together, repeat from * twice; make i, 
 knit 2. 
 
 Second row: Purl 11, knit 6. 
 
 Third row: Knit 2, * make i, knit 2 together, repeat from * 
 once; knit 3, * make i, knit two together, repeat from * twice; 
 make i, knit 2. 
 
 Fourth row : Purl 12, knit 6. 
 
 Fifth row : Knit 2, *make i, knit 2 together, repeat from *once; 
 
40 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 knit 2, make i, knit 2, * make i, knit 2 together, repeat from * 
 twice; make i, knit 2. 
 
 Sixth row : Purl 14, knit 6. 
 
 Seventh row : Knit 2, * make i, knit 2 together, repeat from * 
 once ; knit 2 together, make i, knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit 
 I, * make i, knit 2 together, repeat from * twice; make i, knit 2. 
 
 Eighth row : Purl 15, knit 6. 
 
 Ninth row : Knit 2, * make i, knit 2 together, repeat from * 
 once ; knit i, make i, knit 3, make i.knit 2 together, knit i, * make 
 I, knit 2 together, repeat from * twice; make i, knit 2. 
 
 Tenth row : Purl 16, knit 6. 
 
 Eleventh row : Knit 2, * knit i, knit 2 together, repeat from * 
 once ; knit i, make i, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 2 together, make 
 I, knit 2 together, knit 9. 
 
 Twelfth row : Knit r, * knit 2 together, make i, repeat from * 
 three times ; purl 7, knit 6. 
 
 Thirteenth row : Knit 2, * make i, knit 2 together, repeat from 
 
 * once; knit 2, make i, knit 3 together, make i, knit 11. 
 Fourteenth row: Knit i, knit 2 together, * make i, knit 2 to- 
 gether, repeat from * three times ; purl 5, knit 6. 
 
 Fifteenth row : Knit 2, * make i, knit 2 together, repeat from * 
 once ; knit i, knit 2 together, make i, knit 2 together, knit 10. 
 
 Sixteenth row: Knit i, knit 2 together, * make i, knit 2 to- 
 gether, repeat from * three times ; purl 3, knit 6. 
 
 Seventeenth row : Knit 2, * make i.knit 2 together, repeat from 
 
 * once ; knit 13. 
 
 Eighteenth row : Like i6th, but purl 2. 
 
 Nineteenth row : Knit 2, * make i, knit 2 together, repeat from 
 
 * once ; knit 2 together, knit 10. 
 
 Twentieth row ; Like i6th, without purling any. 
 
 Twenty-first row : Knit 2, * make i, knit 2 together, repeat 
 from * once ; knit 10. 
 
 Twenty-second row : Plain knitting. 
 
 Repeat from the beginning as often as may be desired, and then 
 sew the edging to the piece first worked. It will be seen that the 
 work of the collar consists of three parts — first, the open work body ; 
 second, the narrow plain band on the neck or inner side, so knit 
 as to curve the collar ; third, the edging to be sewn on the body. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 41 
 
 The edging above described is well suited, when worked in proper 
 materials, for the trimming of a counterpane or any large piece of 
 work 
 
 INFANT'S SKIRT. 
 
 Cast on 73 stitches. It should be understood that when stitches 
 are set up they must be knitted once across plain and very loose in 
 order to make a good edge, and first stitches are always slipped 
 without knitting for the same reason. 
 
 1st row : Slip ist, slip 2d, knit one plain and bind (or cast) 2d 
 over it, over, i plain, over, i plain, over, i plain, over, i plain, over, 
 I plain, over, i plain, over, i plain, narrow (or knit 2 together), 
 purl I ; repeat from " slip 2d " to the end of the row. 
 
 2d row: Slip ist, purl 16, knit i plain, purl 16, knit i plain ; re- 
 peat to end of row. 
 
 3d row : Slip ist, slip 2d, knit 3d plain and bind 2d over it, knit 
 12 plain, narrow, purl i ; repeat from " slip 2d " to end of row. 
 
 4th row : Slip 1st, purl 14, knit i plain, purl 14, knit i plain ; re- 
 peat to end of row. 
 
 5th row : Slip ist, slip 2d, knit 3d plain and bind 2d over 3d, knit 
 10 plain, narrow, purl i, and repeat as in 3d and ist rows to the 
 end. 
 
 6th row: Slip ist, purl 10, purl 2 together, knit i plain, purl 10, 
 purl 2 together, knit i plain, and repeat to the end of row. 
 
 This makes the whole pattern, and when done should leave the 
 73 stitches begun with. It is to be repeated six times, which makes 
 the bottom part of the shirt body. Above this it should be simply 
 ribbed by knitting 2 plain and 2 purl, 2 plain and 2 purl back and 
 forth till it is as long as desired ; 9 inches is about right. Then 
 knit a row of holes across the top for the cord which draws the 
 neck, and cast off. Seventy stitches are enough for the ribbed part, 
 and the three extra stitches may be disposed of by binding them off 
 gradually, anywhere throughout the ist row of the ribbed part. 
 They must not be done all together or it would show. Two pieces 
 knit like the above, and sewed together with the wool (which should 
 be 3-threaded Saxony yarn), make the body, and these side seams 
 are to be left open 4I inches from the top, for the sleeve. Any 
 pretty lace pattern of 13 to 15 stitches will answer for this. Hav- 
 
42 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 ing made 12 points knit about 14 or 15 rows plain, wliich will make 
 a little square piece on the end. This is for a gusset and is to be 
 sewed to the other end like any gusset cut on a chemise sleeve. 
 Then sew it into the place left in the side seam with the point set in 
 where the seam was left open. 
 
 The holes round the top of the body are made in this way, be- 
 ginning on the right side, of course : Slip i, over, narrow, i plain, 
 over, narrow, i plain, over, to end of row. Knit back all plain, then 
 cast off. 
 
 If they are required to be high in the neck it can be done by nar- 
 rowing off gradually (at what would be the top otherwise) to fit the 
 shoulder ; probably eight stitches on each side would be enough. 
 An open place must be left in one breadth for the neck. This is 
 easily done by dividing the number of stitches by 2, and knitting 
 the two halves up separately. This leaves the little slit for the front. 
 
 KNITTED JACKET FOR INFANTS. 
 
 The wool for this pretty jacket may be either white Shetland or 
 white single zephyr ; it depends upon whether you wish the gar- 
 ment to be light or heavy ; use two No. 9 needles. The lace round 
 the jacket is knit first; cast on 113 stitches. First row, purl knit- 
 ting; second row, purl knitting; third row, knit 2, ''-slip i, knit 2 
 together; draw the slipped stitch over the last knitted one ; knit 2, 
 make i, knit i, make i, knit 2, repeat from*; end the row with i 
 knit plain. Fourth row, purl knitting ; fifth row, like third row ; 
 sixth row, purl knitting; seventh row, purl knitting; eighth row, 
 plain knitting ; ninth row, same as third row ; tenth row, purl knit- 
 ting ; eleventh row, same as third row ; twelfth row, purl knitting ; 
 thirteenth row, purl knitting ; fourteenth row, knit plain ; fifteenth 
 row, same as third row ; sixteenth row, purl knitting ; seventeenth 
 row, same as third rov»' ; eighteenth row, purl knitting ; nineteenth 
 row, purl knitting; twentieth row, knit plain; twenty-first row, 
 knit plain ; twenty-second row, purl knitting (after this row you 
 commence the groundwork and finish the border) ; twenty-third 
 row, slip I, knit i, * make i, slip i, knit i, draw the slipped stitch 
 over the knitted one ; (the easiest way of doing this is to draw the 
 second stitch through the first of the two on the left-hand needle 
 and knit it, then take the two off the needle together) knit i, knit 2 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 43 
 
 together, make i, knit i, repeat from *; repeat this pattern until at 
 the end of the row 3 stitches are left on the needle ; then make i, 
 slip I, knit I, draw the sHpped stitch over the knitted one, knit i ; 
 twenty-fourth row, purl knitting; twenty-fifth row, slip i, knit i, * 
 make i, slip i, knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the two 
 knitted together, make i, knit 3; repeat from *; at the end of the 
 row (last 3 stitches) make i, slip i, knit i, draw the slipped stitch 
 over the knitted one, knit i ; twenty-sixth row, purl knitting ; 
 twenty-seventh row, shp i, knit i *, make i, knit i, make i, slip i, 
 knit I, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit i, knit 2 
 together; repeat from *; at the end of the row make i, slip i, 
 knit I, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit i ; tv\-enty- 
 eighth row, purl knitting; twenty-ninth row, slip i, knit i, * make 
 I, knit 3, make i, slip i, knit two together, draw the slipped 
 stitch over the two knitted together; repeat from * ; at the end of 
 the row make i, slip i, knit i, draw the slipped stitch over the knit- 
 ted one, knit i. 
 
 Now repeat twice the rows from the twenty-second row (which 
 is a purl row) to the twenty-ninth inclusive. Then repeat the third 
 time from the twenty-second row, but this time knit to the end of 
 the twenty-seventh row, instead of to the end of the twenty-ninth, 
 This brings you up to the fifty-second row, a purl row. In knitting 
 this row, knit the first 30 stitches purl, then slip a twine through 
 them drawing out the needle — these stitches are to form one of the 
 fronts ; then knit 53 stitches purl in the middle of the row for the 
 back ; leave these on the needle, and taking a third needle purl the 
 remaining 30 stitches of the row, which form the other front. Then 
 slip this 30 also on a twine, as you can go on knitting the back more 
 comfortably if you are not bothered by needles holding the stitches 
 of the fronts. 
 
 Now for the 53 stitches of the back : Fifty-third row, same as the 
 twenty-ninth. From this row repeat the pattern from the twenty- 
 second row to the twenty-seventh, until you come to the seventieth 
 row; then you work the 8 rows (from twenty-second to twenty- 
 ninth row) again, and decrease i stitch at the beginning of each 
 row to form the shoulders. After that row, lift your stitches on to 
 a third needle (or a twine) until you have finished the two fronts. 
 For each front : Work them in the same manner as the back, only 
 
44 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 decreasing on the inside of each shoulder. Then put all the stitches 
 again on one needle (back and fronts) and knit as before, decreas- 
 ing once on the shoulders, and taking care to keep the pattern, 
 which by the time you get to this point has become easy to do ; 
 work 8 rows. Then knit 2 rows plain for the neck ; third row, 
 slip I, * make i, knit 2 together, repeat from * ; at the end of the 
 row knit 2 ; fourth row, plain ; fifth row, cast off ; now take a 
 crochet-needle and work round the neck and up the two fronts this 
 edge ; first row, i DC, * 2 chain ; 2 treble in the fourth stitch, 3 
 ch., 2 treble in the same stitch ; 2 ch., i DC. in the fourth stitch 
 from the last (8th from the beginning), repeat from * and fasten off. 
 For the sleeve: Begin at the bottom, casting on 25 stitches. 
 First row, purl knitting; second row, purl knitting; third row, * 
 knit 2, slip I, knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over the knit- 
 ted one, knit 2, make i, knit i, make i, repeat from *, end the row 
 with knit I ; fourth row, purl knitting ; fifth row, like third row ; 
 sixth row, purl knitting ; seventh row, purl knitting ; eighth row, 
 plain knitting ; ninth row, like third row ; tenth row, purl knitting ; 
 eleventh row, like third row ; twelfth row, purl ; thirteenth row, 
 purl ; fourteenth row, plain knitting ; fifteenth row, plain knitting ; 
 sixteenth row, purl knitting; seventeenth row, slip i, make i ; 
 purl 2 together 12 times. In this row you pass a ribbon for the 
 hand. Eighteenth row, purl knitting ; nineteenth row, plain knit- 
 ting; twentieth row, plain knitting; twenty-first row, purl knitting. 
 Now work five times the jacket pattern from the twenty-second to 
 the twenty-ninth rows, in every fourth row increasing one stitch at 
 each end of the row — before the last stitch and after the first stitch. 
 In the fifty-first row, cast off six stitches, then continue the work ; 
 fifty-second row, cast off six, continue the work ; in the next row, 
 cast off two stitches at the beginning, and do this every row until 
 you have worked sixty-one rows ; cast off the remainder ; sew up 
 the sleeve and seam it into the armhole, run a ribbon in round the 
 throat and finish with a bow of ribbon. 
 
 BABY'S QUILT IN KNITTING. 
 
 Following are directions for a quilt for cradle, knitted in squares 
 of blue and white wool. Use No. 9 needles, and single or double 
 BerHn ; pale blue and white are required. Cast on one stitch in 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 45 
 
 blue. — 1st row. Wool forward, knit i ; repeat this row five more 
 times, when you would have 7 stitches on the needle.— 7th row. 
 Wool forward, knit 2, join the white, knit 3, join on another length 
 of blue, knit 2. — 8th row. With blue, wool forward, knit 2, purl 3 
 in white, knit 3 in blue. — 9th and lothrows. Knit entirely with blue, 
 making a stitch in commencing each row — nth row. Wool for- 
 ward, knit 2 in blue, 7 white, 2 blue — 12th row. Wool forward, 
 knit 2 blue, purl 7 white, knit 3 blue. — 13th and 14th rows. Make 
 I, knit plain, both with blue wool.— 15th row. Wool forward, knit 
 2 blue, knit 11 white, 2 blue. — i6th row. Wool forward, knit 2 
 blue, purl 11 white, knit 3 blue. — 17th and i8th rows. Wool for- 
 ward, knit plain with blue ; there should now be 19 stitches on the 
 needle, this completes half the square. You now begin the de- 
 creasing. — 19th row, with blue. Slip i, knit 2 together, knit i, knit 
 II with white, knit 4 with blue. — 20th row. Slip i, knit 2 together, 
 knit I with blue, purl 11 with white, knit 3 with blue. — 21st and 
 22d rows. Slip i, knit 2 together, rest plain, all with blue. — 23d 
 row. Slip I, knit 2 together, knit i with blue, knit 7 with white, 
 knit 4 with blue. — 24th row. Slip i, knit 2 together, knit i with 
 blue, purl 7 with white, knit 3 with blue. — 25th and 26 rows. Slip 
 I, knit 2 together, knit rest with blue. — 27th row. Slip i, knit 2 
 together, knit i with blue, knit 3 with white, knit 4 with blue. — 
 28th row. Slip I, knit 2 together, knit i with blue, purl 3 with white, 
 knit 3 with blue ; now finish the square with blue, decreasing each 
 row until you have only i stitch on the needle. You join the 
 squares together with blue or white wool, and it has a good effect 
 to arrange the four squares as stars. A knitted border or fringe of 
 blue and white should be added. 
 
 BABY'S MITTENS. 
 
 Four needles. No. 15, and one skein Andalusian, Shetland, or 
 Split Zephyr wool will be required. 
 
 Cast on 40 stitches and knit one row plain. 
 
 2d and 3d rounds : Knit 2, purl 2. Repeat. 
 
 3d round : Knit 2, wool forward, knit 2 together. Repeat. 
 
 4th round : Knit 2, purl 2. 
 
 5th round : This and all following rounds are knitted plain. 
 
46 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 9th round — the thumb begins now : Knit 2, increase ; knit 2, 
 increase. Rest of row plain. 
 
 Knit 2 more rows without increasing. 
 
 1 2th round: Knit 2, increase; knit 4, increase. Rest plain. 
 
 Knit 2 rows without increasing. 
 
 15th round: Knit 2, increase; knit 6, increase. (Remember 
 never to increase anywhere except at this part.) 
 
 1 8th round : Knit 2, increase ; knit 8, increase. 
 
 2ist round : Knit 2, increase; knit 10, increase. 
 
 24th round : Knit 2, increase ; knit 12, increase. 
 
 25th round : Slip the 16 thumb stitches on a piece of wool, 
 leaving them for the present unknitted. Go on with the other part 
 for 24 rounds, then decrease every 5th stitch. Two more rounds, 
 and decrease every 4th stitch. Then two more rounds, and de- 
 crease every 3d stitch. Then two plain rounds and cast off, sew- 
 ing together on the wrong side. 
 
 Now go on with the thumb stitches. You must have 18 stitches 
 altogether to make the number right ; pick up two at the join. 
 Knit 17 rounds plain. 
 
 1 8th round : Knit 2 together, knit 3. Repeat. Knit 2 more 
 plain rows and cast off. 
 
 Crochet a little cuff beginning with i chain, i double, increasing 
 every round, and scalloping the last. 
 
 Increasing is done by knitting two stitches into one, or picking 
 up a loop between two stitches and knitting it. Decreasing is done 
 by knitting 2 together. Rounds not mentioned are of course knit- 
 ted plain, without increasing or decreasing. In the rounds where 
 the increasings are made, after these have been done, the rest is 
 plain knitting. 
 
 WRISTLET PATTERN. 
 
 Cast on 6 stitches, ist row ; slip i, knit i, make i, knit i, make 
 I, knit I, make i, purl 2 together. — 2d row: make 3, purl 2 to- 
 gether, knit 1, purl 4, knit i. — 3d row; slip i, knit 2, make i, knit 
 I, make i, knit 2, make i, purl 2 together. — 4th row ; make 3, purl 
 2 together, knit i, purl 5, knit 2. — 5th row; slip i, knit 3, make i, 
 knit I, make i, knit 3, make i, purl 2 together. — 6th row; make 3, 
 purl 2 together, knit i, purl 7, knit 2. — 7th row; slip I, knit 4, make 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 47 
 
 I, knit I, make i, knit 4, make i, purl 2 together. — 8th row; make 
 3, purl 2 together, knit i, purl 2 together, purl 7, knit 2. — 9th row ; 
 sUp I, knit I, slip i, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted 
 one, knit 7, make r, purl 2 together. — loth row; make 3, purl 2 
 together, knit i, purl 2 together, purl 5, knit 2. — nth row ; slip i, 
 knit I, slip I, knit i, pass the slipped stitch over the knit one, knit 
 5, make I, purl 2 together. — 12th row; make 3, purl 2 together, 
 knit I, purl 2 together, purl 3, knit 2. — 13th row ; slip i, knit i, slip 
 I, knit I, pass the slipped stitch over the knit one, knit 3, make i, 
 purl 2 together. — 14th row ; make 3, purl 2 together, knit i, purl 2 
 together, purl i, knit 2. — 15th row; slip i, knit i, slip i, knit i, 
 pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit i, make i, 
 purl 2 together. — i6th row; make 3, purl i, knit i, purl 4. 
 Repeat this pattern until you have a strip long enough to go around 
 the wrist next the hand, 6 leaves will be enough for an ordinary 
 sized hand. Then cast off both ends of the strip together. Take 
 up, on three needles, the stitches of the lower or plain edge and 
 knit I plain, i purl until the wristlet is of the desired length 
 
 RAISED LEAF PATTERN. 
 
 The odds and ends of time during the long Summer days can 
 often be used by economic workers, in knitting squares, or shells, 
 or stripes which can afterwards be sewn together into useful and 
 handsome counterpanes, tidies, toilet covers, pin cushions, mats, 
 etc. The coarseness or fineness of the cotton and needles may be 
 left to the taste of the knitter, but as a general rule No. 8 cotton 
 and No. 14 needles may be used for the coarser work, and No. 18 
 cotton and No. 16 needles for the finer. In every case care should 
 be taken to proportion the cotton to the size of the needles. 
 
 A pretty pattern in squares is known as the Raised Leaf pattern, 
 and is worked thus : 
 
 Cast on one stitch. 
 
 1st row : Over, knit i. 
 
 2d row : Over, knit 2. 
 
 3d row : Over, knit i, over, knit i, over, knit i. 
 
 4th row : Over, knit i, purl 3, knit 2. 
 
 5th row : Over, knit 3, over, knit i, over, knit 3, 
 
 6th row: Over, knit 2, purl 5. knit 3. 
 
48 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 7th row : Over, knit 5, over, knit i, over, knit 5. 
 
 8th row : Over, knit 3, purl 7, knit 4. 
 
 9th row : Over, knit 7, over, knit i, over, knit 7. 
 
 loth row : Over, knit 4, purl 9, knit 5. 
 
 nth row : Over, knit 9, over, knit i, over, knit 9. 
 
 1 2th row: Over, knit 5, purl 11, knit 6. 
 
 13th row: Over, knit 11, over, knit i, over, knit 11. 
 
 14th row : Over, knit 6, purl 13, knit 7. 
 
 15th row : Over, knit 13, over, knit 1, over, knit 13. 
 
 i6th row : Over, knit 7, purl 1 5, knit 8. 
 
 17th row : Over, knit 15, over, knit i, over, knit 15. 
 
 i8th row: Over, knit 8, purl 17, knit 9. 
 
 19th row: Over, knit 9, narrow (by knitting 2 together), knit 13, 
 slip I, knit I and throw the slipped stitch over, knit 9. 
 
 20th row: Over, knit 9, purl 15, knit 10. 
 
 2ist row: Over, knit 10, narrow, knit 11, slip i, knit i and throw 
 slipped stitch over, knit 10. 
 
 22d row: Over, knit 10, purl 13, knit 11. 
 
 23d row: Over, knit 11, narrow, knit 9, sHp i, knit i and throw 
 slipped stitch over, knit 11. 
 
 24th row: Over, knit 11, purl 11, knit 12, 
 
 25th row : Over, knit 12, narrow, knit 7, slip i, knit i and throw 
 slipped stitch over, knit 12. 
 
 26th row : Over, knit 12, purl 9, knit 13, 
 
 27th row: Over, knit 13, narrow, knit 5, slip i, knit i and throw 
 shpped stitch over, knit 13. 
 
 28th row: Over, knit 13, purl 7, knit 14. 
 
 29th row : Over, knit 14, narrow, knit 3, slip i, knit i and throw 
 slipped stitch over, knit 14. 
 
 30th row: Over, knit 14, purl 5, knit 15. 
 
 31st row: Over, knit 15, narrow, knit i, slip i, knit i and throw 
 slipped stitch over, knit 15. 
 
 32d row : Over, knit 1 5, purl 3, knit 116, 
 
 33d row : Over, knit 17, narrow, knit 16. 
 
 34th row: Over, knit 16, purl 2, knit 17. 
 
 35th row: Over, knit 17, narrow, knit 17. 
 
 36th row : Purl throughout. 
 
 37th and 38th rows : Narrow, rest plain. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 49 
 
 39th row ; Narrow, rest purl. 
 
 Continue as from 37th, two plain rows and one purl — always 
 remembering to narrow at the beginning of each row — till there is 
 only one stitch left. Cast off. This completes one square. 
 
 In arranging the pattern four leaves should be brought to one 
 point, and the squares should be sewn together as flatly as possible 
 without dragging. The joining of the larger squares thus formed 
 requires no special direction. 
 
TATTING. 
 
 Tatting is a strong and durable trimming for undergarments, 
 and in fact for clothing of any kind which it is desirable to wash 
 frequently. It can be made very rapidly, and is not as trying to the 
 eyes as many other kinds of fancy work. 
 
 Only two implements are required, a shuttle for holding the 
 thread and a strong pin. If thread is to be used do not get that 
 which is too closely twisted, as it is liable to become knotted in 
 working. Silk tatting is much used for ornamenting flannel gar- 
 ments. Silk is very easily worked, even more so than cotton ; the 
 silk to be used is netting silk. 
 
 The mode of holding the shuttle and using the hand is of first 
 importance. The shuttle is held lightly between the thumb and 
 first and second fingers of the right hand, and with only a few inches 
 of the thread left loose. Make a loop around the fingers of the 
 left hand, holding it fast by the thumb and forefinger ; you are now 
 ready to begin to form your stitches, which is done by letting the 
 shuttle pass under the loop between the first and second fingers, 
 and draw it out towards the right in a horizontal position, when a 
 loop will be formed with the thread which was passed round the 
 fingers of the left hand. 
 
 Hold the shuttle steadily in the hand, stretched towards you, 
 while the second finger of the left hand works the loop up to the 
 first finger and thumb, where the loop has been held. Remember 
 that the stitches are always formed of the loop which passes 
 round the fingers of the left hand. When a sufficient number of 
 stitches have been made to form a loop the thread is drawn up, 
 and another stitch is formed in the same way as before described. 
 
 The clover-leaf pattern is formed by connecting the second leaf 
 through a loop which has been left loose in the side of the first leaf, 
 and so on until the three leaves are formed. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 5 1 
 
 A very bretty border, suited for curtains, toilet covers, skirts, etc., 
 is made by working six of the little scallops and drawing them up 
 
 closely to form a star. When a sufficient number of stars have 
 been formed sew them together lengthwise. 
 
 The cuts given will show a few of the patterns most commonly 
 used in making tatting. 
 
5a MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 We give in Cut No. 6, of Tatting Work, an illustration of a very 
 pretty medallion for the end of a tie. When this is made of tine 
 thread it very closely imitates Honiton lace. By a little ingenuity 
 
 Cut No. 6. 
 
 on the part of the worker, after the stitches are once mastered, 
 very handsome work of this kind can be accomplished in form of 
 barbs, fichus, borders for handkerchiefs, medallions for toilet arti- 
 cles, infants' dress waists, etc., etc. 
 
CROCHET WORK. 
 
 Crochet is a kind of knitting done with a hooked needle, and 
 while it is much less intricate than ordinary knitting with straight 
 needles, it possesses the advantage of being better " catch up " 
 work, as it can be hastily laid aside without fear of dropping 
 stitches which often make such trouble for the knitter. It can be 
 worked with the finest thread for imitation lace, and the coarsest 
 double wool for rugs, while there is a large range between for an 
 unlimited variety of useful and fancy articles, such as shawls, coun- 
 terpanes, slippers, mittens, purses, socks, etc., etc. The material 
 may be cotton, silk, wool, chenile or twine, the object for which the 
 article is to be used determining the material to be cliosen. 
 
 The stitches which are used in crochet, are chain stitch, slip 
 stitch, single crochet, double crochet, treble crochet, and long 
 treble. 
 
 The Chain Stitch is the foundation for all others. A single 
 loop is made around the hook or needle, and the thread drawn 
 through this loop, another loop is drawn, and so on, until the 
 required number is made. Chain stitch should be done loosely, as 
 the work afterward being formed to this chain is apt to contract it. 
 It is sometimes desirable, on this account, to make the first chain 
 with a larger needle, particularly for edgings. The first loop 
 placed upon the needle is not counted in making the chain. 
 
54 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 Slip Stitch. — A chain being made the hook is inserted in the 
 last stitch but one to the needle, and the thread is then drawn 
 
 through the two stitches, then the needle is placed in the next 
 stitch the same, and so on. 
 
 "Single Crochet" (s. c.) is to insert the needle in a loop of 
 the preceding row, then draw the the thread through both the loop 
 and the stitch at once. 
 
 " Double Crochet " (d. c.) is to draw the thread through 
 a loop in the lower row, then draw it through the other two stitches. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 55 
 
 "Treble" (t. c.) is to put the cotton over the needle and insert 
 the latter into a loop; draw the cotton first through the loop, then 
 through two stitches, then again through the last two stitches. 
 
 A " Long Treble " (Long t. c.) is the same as the above, ex- 
 cept that the cotton is drawn first through only one stitch, then 
 through two, and again through the last two. 
 
 In tricoter you make a chain, then pick up each stitch in single 
 crochet; but do not finish working it, only pull it through once, so 
 as to keep every stitch still on the needle. In coming back, pull the 
 wool first through one stitch, then pull it always through two 
 stitches until the row is done. Backwards ajid forwards count as 
 one row. 
 
 To " raise " is merely picking up the stitch from the row 
 beneath, and drawing the wool through in the usual way when 
 doing tricoter. 
 
 We give below a few directions for different trimmings and 
 articles which are much used in crochet. 
 
 TRIMMING: CROCHET AND MIGNARDISE. 
 
 As will be seen from the illustration, this pattern is worked 
 diagonally. 
 
 Commence with twenty-one chain, pass over fiv^e chain, one tre- 
 ble into the sixteenth, keep the top loop on the hook for the next 
 
56 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 and following trebles, turn the cotton twice round the hook, work 
 off as for a treble, leaving the top loops of each on the hook ; the 
 trebles are worked into every other stitch of the chain ; take a 
 length of mignardise,* work a treble as before described into two 
 picots together, repeat from* three times more, work an ordinary 
 treble into the two next picots together, then work off each loop on 
 the hook as one stitch. 
 
 2d Row : Four chain (as all the trebles are worked as described 
 in the last row, we shall not repeat the directions), pass over the 
 first treble, one treble into the top of each of the six next successive 
 trebles, one ordinary treble into each of the eight next successive 
 
 stitches, and one into the two next picots of mignardise together ; 
 keep the top loop of each on the hook, and work off as described 
 in the first row. 
 
 3d Row : Four chain, pass over the first treble, one treble as 
 described into each of the five next successive stitches, one ordinary 
 treble into each of the eight next successive stitches and into the 
 two next picots of mignardise together ; work off as described for 
 previous rows. 
 
 4th Row : Four chain, pass over one treble, one treble as de- 
 scribed into each of the four next successive trebles, one ordinary 
 treble into each of eight next successive stitches and into the two 
 next picots of mignardise together ; work off the same as previous 
 rows. Repeat from the first row, working into the stitches of last 
 row instead of into the chain, as described for first row. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 57 
 
 EDGING, CROCHET AND POINT BRAID. 
 
 1st Row of Heading: Fold the braid as shown in the design, 
 worlc six singles into the folded part, six chain, fold the braid again, 
 and repeat. 
 
 2d Row : One treble into a stitch of last row, two chain, pass 
 over two stitches, and repeat. 
 
 1st Row of Edge : One single into the corner of a fold of braid, 
 six chain, one single into the next corner, ten chain ; repeat from 
 the beginning of the row. 
 
 2d Row : One treble into the second of ten chain, one chain, pass 
 over one stitch, one treble into the next, one chain, pass over one 
 stitch, one treble into the next, three chain, one treble into the 
 same stitch, one chain, pass over one stitch, one treble into the 
 next, one chain, pass over one stitch, one treble into the next ; one 
 chain, pass over one stitch, one treble into the next, pass over two 
 stitches, one double into each of five next successive stitches ; re- 
 peat from beginning of the row. 
 
 3d Row : * One double into one chain of last row, three chain, 
 pass over one stitch, repeat from * five times more, one double into 
 each of five next successive stitches, three chain ; repeat. 
 
 TRIMMING: CROCHET AND FANCY MIGNARDISE. 
 
 For the center take a length of fancy mignardise, and on the 
 straight side work one double into a picot, four chain, two double 
 trebles into the same picot ; keep the top loop of each on the hook 
 and draw through all altogether ; pass over two picots, two double 
 trebles into the next picot, keep the top loop of each on the hook 
 and draw through all together, four chain, one double into same 
 picot ; repeat from the beginning of the row. Take a length of 
 plain mignardise, work a row like the last ; to join the two rows, 
 
58 
 
 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 draw the cotton through the top of double trebles of last row (see 
 design) when working the corresponding trebles on next row. 
 
 For the heading on the other side of plain mignardise, work one 
 double, separated by one chain, into each picot of last row. 
 
 For the edge of the scalloped side of mignardise work one 
 double into the second picot of a scallop, * two chain, one half 
 treble into the top of last double, one double into next picot. 
 Repeat from * three times more, work into three picots together in 
 the depth of scallop, and repeat. 
 
 EDGING: CROCHET AND MIGNARDISE. 
 
 For the edge : 
 
 1st Row : Two half trebles and two trebles into a picot of mig- 
 nardise, three chain, two trebles and two half trebles into the same 
 picot, pass over one picot, one single into each of three next picots, 
 pass over one picot, and repeat. 
 
 2d Row : One double into center of three singles of last row, 
 four chain, * one double under three chain of last row, three chain, 
 repeat from * four times more, one double under three chain, four 
 chain. Repeat from the beginning of the row. 
 
 To join the scallops : Draw through the last loop of three chain 
 when working the first three chain on next scallop. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 59 
 
 For the heading: Draw three picots one through the other with 
 a hook (see design), work one double into the last picot, three 
 chain. Repeat. 
 
 TRIMMING: CROCHET AND EMBROIDERED BRAID. 
 
 White mediaeval braid is used for this trimming ; it is em- 
 broidered with a Greek key design in tent-stitches. 
 
 For the crochet edge : — 
 
 1st Row : Work one double into two picots together, three chain 
 one double into the two next picots together, five chain, one double 
 into two next picots together, three chain. Repeat from the begin- 
 ning of the row. 
 
 2d Row : One double into the first double of last row, one chain,- 
 seven trebles separated by one chain under the five chain of last 
 row, one chain. Repeat from the beginning of the row. 
 
 3d Row : One double into the double of last row, one chain, * 
 one double between the two next trebles, four chain, repeat from * 
 four times more, one double under next chain, one chain. Repeat 
 from the beginning of the row. 
 
 For the heading : on the other side of braid work one treble into 
 two picots together, three chain. Repeat from the beginning of 
 the row. 
 
 EDGING : CROCHET AND WAVED BRAID. 
 
 The loops are made by working with a needle threaded with 
 crochet cotton a single buttonhole-stitch into each point of braid, 
 and passing the cotton on from one point to another. 
 
6o MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 For the edge : One double into the buttonhole loop, five chain, 
 one double into the same place, five chain. Repeat from the begin- 
 ning of the row. 
 
 For the heading : One double into the buttonhole loop, four 
 chain. Repeat. 
 
 WHITE AND SCARLET SHETLAND SHAWL. 
 
 LARGE SIZE. 
 
 (9 ozs. white and 2 ozs. scarlet Shetland wool.) 
 
 This must be done loosely, with a small ivory or bone crochet- 
 needle. 
 
 Make a chain of six stitches for the foundation. Now work 
 three more chain, and do a treble into the fourth from the needle ; 
 that is, in the last stitch of the foundation. Do two more treble, 
 one chain, miss one loop, and do three treble ; miss one loop and 
 do a treble into the last stitch. 
 
 2d row — three chain, two treble, worked into the hole between 
 the first and second stitches ; one chain, miss three loops, and 
 work three treble into the next hole ; one chain, one treble, into 
 the last loop. 
 
 3d row — three chain, two treble, into the first hole, one chain, 
 three treble, into the next hole, one chain, one treble, into the last 
 stitch. You ought now to have formed a small square mat, and 
 henceforth the shawl is very simple. Three treble, one chain, 
 alternately ; increase at each corner by working : three treble, one 
 chain, three treble, all into one hole. The first round you will be 
 obliged to work into loops, but after that, into the holes formed by 
 the one chain. As the shawl gets larger, you must do two instead 
 of one chain. For the border, do five rounds in scarlet, then ten 
 in white ; then scarlet again for severel inches, and end with a scal- 
 lop formed thus : one single, one double, one treble, one long treble, 
 two chain, one long treble, one treble, one double. Repeat. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 6l 
 
 For a smaller shawl you would only require 7 ozs. whke wool, 
 but the same amount of scarlet. 
 
 LONG PURSE WITH BEADS. 
 
 To make this purse it will require four skeins of purse silk and 
 one bunch of beads. 
 
 First string on a few beads and commence by making a chain 
 about twelve inches long, then work in long crochet. Place your 
 silk around the needle, put your needle into every other chain 
 stitch, draw the silk through, then through one loop, through two, 
 again through two. Now put forward a bead, then draw the silk 
 through one loop. 
 
 Every row after the first, you put your needle through the large 
 hole. 
 
 You cut off your silk at the end of each row, and commence at 
 the other end, so as your beads may be all on one side. You 
 crochet up one-third at each end, down in the ends, and add tas- 
 sels and slide to match the kind of beads used. 
 
 LONG PURSE STRIPED. 
 
 This purse also requires four skeins, two of each color. 
 
 Make a chain ten inches long, work six rows of double crochet, 
 then take the other color, and after it has been joined to the work 
 make a chain of five loops, and join it to the work on every fourth' 
 stitch. Next row, you join the chain to the center stitch of the 
 chain in the last row, with a double crochet stitch. When you have 
 worked four open rows, you work one row with only three stitches 
 in the chain, instead of five. Now take the first color and work six 
 rows of double crochet. This forms as you will readily see an open 
 stripe of one color, and a close stripe of the other. You can put 
 beads in on the third stripe, if you desire. String the beads before 
 you commence and put one forw^ard on your thread before you 
 draw it through the work ; this purse is made up like the one pre- 
 \'iously described. 
 
 BABY'S SOCK. 
 
 Take either Saxony or split zephyr, set up a chain of thirteen 
 stitches, or any uneven number, then crochet around this row. 
 
62 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK, 
 
 widening at either end and in the middle of one side. Repeat this 
 for about five rows. Then continue crocheting the same only 
 widening in the center alone, until the instep is made. Your own 
 judgment will be the best guide to tell you how deep this should be. 
 
 Now you have come to the heel. Divide the piece you 
 have crocheted in half, take up the stitches on the plain half, (not 
 on the piece with the point on it) and crochet in double crochet 
 seven rows or as many as you think will be necessar}-. Double this 
 heel piece together and join in single crochet. Turn the point over 
 on the front of the sock and take up the stitches in double crochet, 
 and make the stocking in shell stitch, making as many rows as you 
 wish the stocking to be long. You may finish the top with a row 
 of scallops in silk. 
 
 Blue and white, or pink, are favorite colors for these socks, or all 
 white, with a ribbon run in around the ankle, which is to be pre- 
 ferred to cord and tassels. 
 
 TAM O'SHANTER CAP. 
 
 Cast on six stitches, and crochet round these stitches a flat piece, 
 widening at intervals to insure this, and until this head piece is as 
 large as you may desire it, when crochet one round without increas- 
 ing. Crochet the succeeding rows diminishing in the same pro- 
 portion as you increased, and work the head band with either 
 increasing or decreasing, taking the stitches through both edges of 
 the loop. Nine or ten rows will be sufficient for this band. It should 
 be crocheted tighter than the other part of the cap. 
 
 LADIES" OPERA HOOD. 
 
 Take wooden needles about the size of a small pen-holder ; get 
 either Pompadour wool or split zephyr, of white or a delicate color. 
 Cast on sixty stitches ; knit plain garter stitch, very loose, until you 
 have a piece about fifteen inches long ; slip half the stitches (that is 
 thirty), on to a fine hair-pin, and bend it over so they won't slip 
 off ; then knit the remaining thirty back and forth until you have 
 made a strip about twenty inches long ; bind off. Then go back 
 and take those stitches off the hair-pin on to the needle, and knit 
 back and forth until that strip is as long as the other, then bind off. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 63 
 
 Now if you hold the work up it will look very much like a pair of 
 p.ints, but be not discouraged. Crochet a pretty shell border around 
 the whole thing ; gather and put a tassel on each of the lower ends. 
 Gather the top loosely, and put a large ribbon bow of the same 
 color on top of the gathers and it is done. To wear it, put the 
 part with the bow on just above your front hair, cross the two ends 
 behind and tie them under your chin. It is jaunty and becoming, 
 and will not displace the most carefully arranged hair. 
 
 TABLE MATS. 
 
 Make a chain of 25 stitches. 
 
 DC. all around to the beginning and turn the work. There is 
 one stitch upon the hook ; put the hook back through the last loop 
 through which the cotton was drawn, put the cotton over the hook 
 and draw it through that loop alone ; then put the cotton over the 
 hook and draw through the two loops upon the hook — DC. the row 
 of loops on the back side of the mat to the end. 
 
 Crochet twice in each of three adjoining loops at the end, DC. to 
 the other end. Crochet twice in two adjoining loops at that end, 
 bringing the ends of the first row around the mat together. 
 Bring the cotton in front of the hook which has upon it one 
 loop, put the hook through a loop at the end of this row where 
 it commenced, and draw the cotton through the two loops upon 
 the hook joining the row. Turn the work over, put the hook 
 back through the last loop that the cotton was drawn through, 
 put the cotton over the hook, draw through that loop alone, put 
 the cotton over the hook and draw through the two loops. 
 
 Crochet twice in the first loop of each of the two loops that 
 had two stitches put in them. 
 
 Proceed down the side to the other end — Crochet twice in the 
 first of each of the three loops that had two stitches put in them, 
 then go on to the beginning of the row, join and turn over the mat 
 as before. Continue until the mat is of sufficient size. 
 
 For the border pass one loop and make in the second five TC. 
 stitches. Pass one loop and fasten down by DC. in the next, and 
 so on around the mat. 
 
 The length of the chain in the middle of course determines the 
 size of the mat, For coffee and tea pots make a chain of six, and 
 
64" MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 fasten together. Crochet twice in every stitch to start the six points 
 for widening. 
 
 The cotton suitable is Dexter's No. 6 four threads. A hook 
 small enough to make it very compact should be used. The 
 stitches to be crocheted all the time are upon the back of the 
 mat. 
 
 The mat, is worked in ribbed (DC.) crochet, the hook being 
 placed in the outside half of each loop, send the work turned at the 
 end of each round. The increasings are of course, to turn the 
 corners, and the rounds are completed by an SC. before turning 
 back. 
 
 A CHILD'S PETTICOAT. 
 
 This is worked in ribbed crochet with a bone crochet hook, and 
 the material to be used is pink and white Saxony wool. Begin at 
 the lower edge with a chain a yard and a quarter in length, and 
 divisible by 12, the number for each scallop, which is dented thus : 
 
 Work from right to left,* i DC. on each of the tirst 5 ch., 3 DC. 
 into the sixth, for the center and outward peak ; 5 DC. on the next 
 5 ch., miss 2 to shape the hollow or nearer peak ; this at the same 
 time makes an open seam, which divides the scallops. Repeat from* 
 and, at the end of the row, to rib the crochet, turn the work, and 
 pierce the needle at the back of the stitch in the preceding line. 
 
 At the 20th row decrease by missing i stitch on either side of 
 the festoon. Fasten off at the 32d row, and join at the back, leav- 
 ing a placket hole or not as preferred. Prepare a band of double 
 crochet, on which work any simple crochet edging. A drawing 
 string may be inserted through this. 
 
 CROCHETED SLIPPERS. 
 
 For a small wool slipper use double Berlin wool, and make a 
 chain of 15 stitches. Work throughout in single crochet, and in- 
 crease one stitch in the middle of every row for the first twelve 
 rows. This piece forms the front. Now crochet the first 12 stitches 
 backward and forward for thirty rows, and then join to the other 
 side of the front. Pick up the stitches around the top, crochet one 
 row and on the second row work three singles loosely into each 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 65 
 
 Stitch. This make a httle frill around the slipper. Turn the slip- 
 per inside out, line with silk, and sew on a cork sole, Reverse the 
 slipper, pass a ribbon of the same colored silk around underneath 
 the frill, and finish with a bow in front. To make a larger slipper 
 work more rows in front and along the sides. It is a convenience 
 in any case to work to a paper pattern. 
 
 BABY'S BIB PATTERN. 
 
 Knitting cotton No. 16. Fine bone crochet hook. 
 
 Make a chain of thirty-eight stitches, widening in the middle, by 
 making two stitches in the nineteenth loop. 
 
 Turn, and double crochet back, always, throughout the work, 
 putting the hook in the outside half of the loop, and widening 
 always in the middle. Continue thus back and forth until you can 
 count tifteen of these ribs, fasten, and break of the cotton. 
 
 Then make a new chain of tifty-five stitches, and fasten it with 
 the hook to the upper corner of the piece you have crocheted, 
 opposite the corner where you broke oH the thread, to make the 
 rib come right, crochet down the side of the bib, widening at the 
 corner, then across the bottom, widening at the center and at 
 that corner. Then crochet up the other side, and then make a 
 chain of fifty-tive stitches without breaking off the thread. 
 
 Turn, work back around the bib, and out to the end of the chain 
 on the other side, always widening at the corners and in the middle 
 and always taking the back part of the loop. Continue this until 
 you can count eight ribs on the side, then finish with the shell edge. 
 
 The work is done in ribbed crochet. 
 
 A SUMMER CLOUD. 
 
 A charming Summer cloud may be crocheted of Shetland floss 
 wool worked in shell pattern. A recent specimen intended for 
 seaside wear was of a light blue, nearly three yards long and about 
 two feet wide, and was edged all round with a plain row of scallops, 
 each containing nine trebles. A chain of 361 stitches was first 
 made. This allowed for sixty shells. Each shell was formed of 
 six trebles, the wool being so fine that five trebles failed to make 
 the shell full enough. 
 
 The second row was begun by a DC. exactly in the middle of 
 5 
 
66 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 the first shell of the first row. It was ended by fastening the last 
 shell of the second row in the middle of the last shell of the 
 first row, and finishing with 3 chain. 
 
 The third row was begun by making 3 chain precisely in the 
 same hole in which the second row started, and working in this 
 same spot a shell of six trebles, finishing it with a DC. on the 
 middle of the first shell of the second row. At the end of this 
 row, after making a DC. on the top of the last shell of the second 
 row, another shell was worked in the opening at the base of the 
 3 chain and was finished with a DC. on the top of this 3 chain. 
 
 The second and third rows were repeated throughout. 
 
 The cloud was worked with a hook about No. 8, and took twelve 
 ounces of the floss. 
 
 FEATHER EDGED BRAID TRIMMING. 
 
 Fasten the thread to a loop in the braid. Chain seven stitches, 
 put the needle in the second loop from where you commence, draw 
 the thread through the loop and the stitch on the needle, chain four 
 more and fasten in the next second loop, then take up three more 
 loops by putting the needle through each one, and drawing the 
 thread through the loop, and the stitch on the needle, chain four 
 stitches and fasten as before, chain four more and fasten, take up 
 eight loops as the three were taken, chain two and fasten around 
 the last four chain stitches, chain two more and fasten in the second 
 loop from the eight taken up stitches, chain two, and fasten around 
 the next four chain stitches, chain two, and fasten in second loop, 
 then take up three loops, chain two, fasten around the four chain 
 stitches, chain two, fasten in second loop, chain two more, fasten 
 around the seven stitches, chain four, fasten in second loop, double 
 the braid together from this loop, and on the right side of the work, 
 take up a loop of each piece of the braid, draw the thread through 
 these loops, leave the stitch on the needle, and so continue until all 
 have been taken up, as far as the loop above the eight taken up 
 stitches, on the opposite side of the braid, then draw the thread 
 through two stitches at a time until only one stitch remains on the 
 needle, then commence the second scallop same as before. Crochet 
 across the top of the completed edging, to sew on by. And 
 it washes and wears better to crochet a chain of three between 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 67 
 
 each loop on the lower edge, except those close between the scal- 
 lops, simply drawing the thread through these. The needle must 
 be fine and straight. 
 
 ANOTHER PATTERN. 
 
 Begin with the third or fourth loop in the braid, bring your 
 thread through and make a stitch, then a chain of three stitches ; 
 with the last stitch on your needle bring the thread through the 
 second loop of the braid and the stitches on the needle, counting 
 from the loop you have already taken up, do this three times, then 
 take up every other loop, without making a chain between, five 
 times, then make a chain of three which you join into the center 
 stitch of the last chain you made, make a chain of two and join that 
 to the braid. Repeat this until you have taken up the middle stitch 
 of each of the three chains and joined them to the braid. You find 
 now that you have a scallop filled with crochet, and must join 
 your braid so as to be able to begin another. With one stitch on 
 your needle, double your braid down on the side of your scallop 
 with a loop of the braid in the crease ; now take up two loops (one 
 of each piece) and draw your thread through and keep the stitch 
 thus made on your needle, and continue till you have seven stitches. 
 Now draw the thread through two at a time till you have only one 
 on your needle ; now press open this seam and begin another scal- 
 lop just as you did the first. 
 
 CROCHETED SLEIGH ROBE. 
 
 Ten skeins of domestic yarn of four knots each — three-threaded ; 
 six skeins bright scarlet, the other four black. Crochet a chain of 
 one of the colors, 51 stitches, or enough to make a strip 12 inches 
 wide, and the length of just two of the skeins. The robe consists 
 of two stripes of black and three of scarlet crocheted together with 
 orange. The Afghan stitch is used. The black strips are to be 
 worked with calla lilies and green leaves, or any other pattern if 
 preferred. 
 
 CROCHET ANTIMACASSAR. 
 
 This pattern can be adapted for a round couvrette or a square 
 one, and is also pretty done in silk for a sofa cushion. Make a 
 
68 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 chain of 4 Stitches, and unite it. ist round: Work into i loop a 
 long stitch, make i chain stitch, work another long stitch into the 
 same place, make i chain, repeat. 2d round : 3 long stitches into 
 I loop, make 2 chain stitches, miss i loop, and repeat. 3d round : 
 I double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, make 7 chain, and 
 repeat. 4th round : Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 5 long 
 stitches, and 2 more double crochet, and repeat. 5th round : i 
 long stitch into the ist double crochet in last round, make 9 chain, 
 and repeat. 6th round : Into the 9 chain 2 double crochet, * make 
 4 chain, work 2 double crochet, repeat from * 3 times more, make 5 
 chain, work a stitch of single crochet into the 2d of the 5, make i 
 chain stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the round. 7th 
 round ; i long stitch into the loop formed with the 5 chain, make 
 12 chain, and repeat. 8th round : Into the 12 chain 2 double cro- 
 chet into successive loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double crochet 
 into each of the 2 next loops, make i chain, work into the 
 6th loop I double crochet, 5 long stitches, and another double 
 crochet, make i chain, miss i loop, work 2 double crochet into suc- 
 cessive loops, make 4 chain, work i double crochet into each of the 
 next 2, make 5 chain, and repeat. This completes the circle. 120 
 circles sewn together will make a good-sized couvrette, 12 in 
 the length and 10 in the width. If a round couvrette is 
 wished, work one circle for the center larger than the others ; 
 this can be done by repeating the 5th and 6th rounds, then 
 sew 8 circles round the center one, and increase the number of 
 circles in each row till you have made it the size you wish. For 
 the square one, tassels are required for the end and sides ; these 
 are made by winding the cotton over a cardboard 4 inches deep 
 about 80 times, then twist 8 threads of the cotton into a cord, cut 
 the cotton wound on the cardboard at one end, make 2 inches of 
 the cord into a loop and tie it firmly with the middle of the tassel, 
 then turn it, tie a thread tightly round, about an inch below the 
 cord, and net over the head ; 40 of these tassels will be sufficient. 
 Use No. 10 cotton. 
 
 RICE-STITCH. 
 
 This fancy stitch in crochet is easily learned, and is pretty for 
 shawls, clouds, etc. Make a chain of any length you wish. Wind 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 69 
 
 your thread five times around the needle — put the needle through 
 the 2d loop of the foundation chain — pass the needle under the 
 thread, draw the thread through the loop, and then draw the thread 
 through all the loops upon the needle. This makes a group of 
 threads like grains of rice. Make a chain stitch before proceeding to 
 make the next group. In the next row the groups are to be placed 
 in the chain stitch of the preceding row. This pattern is easily 
 understood. 
 
 DEEP CROCHET LACE FOR LAMBREQUIN. 
 
 The following pattern is very pretty for a mantel lambrequin, 
 crocheted of seine cord from No. 12 to 20, or of the linen cord which 
 comes for making Macreme lace. The pattern when worked has 
 two rows of open work chain, through which it is very pretty to run 
 bright ribbons corresponding to the room where it is to be used. 
 
 The mantel board may be covered with felt, plush, or canton 
 flannel, letting the same come down as a lining underneath the 
 crochet pattern. If the lining and mantel top are of olive, blue, or 
 maroon with ribbons to match run into the open spaces, the effect 
 is very pretty. 
 
 To make the fringe for the edge, cut the cord into lengths of say 
 eighteen inches, more or less, according to taste of the worker ; 
 make the lengths perfectly even by winding it around a board or 
 book ; take two threads at once and fasten by looping into every 
 stitch around the scallops. Nail the work to the mantel board with 
 brass headed tacks, placing them near together and at equal dis- 
 tances apart. Some persons fasten small silk tassels or little balls in 
 occasionally, around the border with the fringe. 
 
 Other patterns of crochet edgings given in our book may be 
 found equally pretty to be used in this way. 
 
 Foundation chain of 17 stitches. 
 
 First row : i DC. in 6th stitch from last, 3ch, 3 DC. in 9th 
 stitch ; 3ch, 3 DC. in same (9th) stitch fasten down to next stitch 
 of chain, 3 chain, 3 DC. in 15 stitch: 3ch, 3 DC. in same stitch, 
 fasten to the chain ; 3ch, 3 DC. in 17th stitch ; 3ch, 3 DC. in same 
 stitch ; fasten. 
 
 Second row : 3ch, 3 DC. in loop made by the 3ch worked 
 between the last 3 DC. in preceding row, 3ch, 3 DC. in same loop, 
 
70 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 3ch, 3 DC. in next loop; 3ch, 3DC. in same loop; 3ch, 3 DC. in 
 next or 3rd loop ; 3ch, 3 DC. in same loop ; fasten, work 6ch, fasten 
 to loop in the last row but one. 
 
 Third row: * 3ch i DC. repeat from * 5 times, putting all the 
 DCs. in same large loop ; then 3ch, 3 DC. in the next loop ; 3ch 3 
 DC. in same loop ; 3ch, 3 DC. in second loop ; 3ch, 3 DC. in 
 same loop, fasten ; 3ch. 3 DC. in 3rd and last loop ; 3ch, 3 DC. in 
 same loop. 
 
 Fourth row : 3ch, 3 DC. in first loop ; 3ch, 3 DC. in same ; 3ch, 
 3 DC. in second loop ; 3ch, 3DC. in same ; 3ch, 3 DC. in 3rd loop ; 
 3ch, 3 DC. in same ; 3ch, fasten over ist. DC. in large loop : repeat 
 over every DC. in scallop ; fasten the last 3ch to little scallop in 
 last large scallop. 
 
 Fifth row : Into every loop made on the scallop in last row put 
 I SC, 3 DC, I SC ; fasten the little scallop down snugly, as much 
 of the beauty of the work depends on their finish ; then when you 
 arrive at the body of the work begin again from the first row. 
 
 This pattern is quite as effective, and makes a wider border, if 
 the work is done in treble crochet instead of double, one can try a 
 scallop both ways and take their preference. 
 
 AFGHAN FOR BABY-CARRIAGE. 
 
 It is worked with Saxony wool in alternate squares of white and 
 blue ; other colors may, of course, be chosen to suit individual 
 taste. The stitch is crochet tricotee, or what is popularly called 
 " Afghan stitch." Make a chain of 14 stitches with white Saxony 
 wool, making 13 loops of tricotee, work on it 13 rows of white; 
 then take the blue wool, and continue, working 13 rows ; then take 
 the white again, working thus in alternate squares until the re- 
 quired length is reached. The next stripe begins with blue wool, 
 and is worked in alternate squares in the same way. The stripes 
 are joined together by a row of chain stitch, in either white or blue ; 
 a white square must always be next to the blue ones and vice versa. 
 In the center of each square may be embroidered in blue or gold 
 silk, any pretty flower or figure the worker likes. The couvrette is 
 to be finished with a fringe which is crocheted thus — ist row: 
 With white wool, i SC. (single crochet) * 7 chain, miss 2 loops, i 
 SC. on the next loop, repeat from * all round. 2d row : i SC. on the 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 7 1 
 
 4th loop of the first 7 ch. (7 chain), i SC. on the 4th of the next 7 ch 
 of the preceding row ; continue all round ; this row is worked with 
 blue wool. Next cut the two wools in lengths of 9 inches, and loop 
 6 strands into the center of each 7 ch. of the 2d row, putting the 
 blue and the white in the alternate chains. Saxony wool is excel- 
 lent for these Afghans as it washes well, especially if bran is used 
 instead of soap. 
 
 AFGHAN STITCH (CROCHET TRICOTEE). 
 
 For the benefit of those who may not happen to know the usual 
 Afghan stitch employed in making the above couvrette, a few sim- 
 ple directions may be presented. It is a very easy stitch, and one 
 agreeable to the fingers. The crochet needle must be a rather long 
 one of bone, wood or steel, and the same size from end to end. 
 Holding the wool in the left hand you make with the needle held in 
 the right a running loop or noose ; through this loop draw the wool 
 with the needle making a third loop, and go on thus until your 
 chain has the required number of loops — say seventeen. At the 
 end turn the work back on the chain thus : Put your needle 
 through the 1 5th loop — the one next but one to the last of the 
 chain — and drawing the wool through leave the stitch on the 
 needle ; with this and the 17th stitch of the chain you will have two 
 stitches on the needle. Put the needle through the next stitch of 
 the chain, and, drawing the wool through, leave the loop also on 
 the needle. Go to the end of the chain thus and you will find 16 
 stitches on your needle, as in knitting ; in making a chain for cro- 
 chet tricotee, you must always make one more stitch than the num- 
 ber which the work is to have, as this permits the neat turn at the 
 end. At the end of the first row (all the stitches being on the 
 needle), take up the wool with the hook and draw it through the 
 first stitch only, then catching the wool up again, draw it through 
 the stitch just made and the next stitch on the needle ; then 
 through the stitch just made and the next stitch, and so on to the 
 end of the row, when only one stitch is left on the needle. Then 
 put the hook through the first perpendicular stitch of the preceding 
 row (not the edge stitch), and draw the wool through, leaving the 
 stitch thus made on the needle. Go to the end of the row thus, 
 drawing the wool through each perpendicular stitch of the.preced- 
 
72 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 ing row, and leaving all the stitches thus made on the needle ; then 
 work back as in the second row. This is crochet tricotee, so called 
 because it resembles knitting. 
 
 STARS IN CROCHET. 
 
 These stars are very useful in many ways. They can be sewed 
 together and made into tidies or doylies, made with fine cotton and 
 sewed together in a long strip, they can be used for the bands of 
 chemises, or for insertion for drawers, underskirts, etc. Made in 
 worsted it makes a very pretty appearance. 
 
 Each star is begun in the center by a chain of 8 stitches. In the 
 1st stitch work i treble, * 4 chain, i treble in this same ist stitch, 
 repeat from * 3 times more, 4 chain, i slip stitch in the 4th of the 8 
 chain. You have thus formed 8 rays, joined to the ist stitch. Now 
 work (without cutting the cotton) the branches, which are begun 
 from the center. 
 
 1st branch. — ist round: 18 chain, i treble in the 13th, so as to 
 form a purl with the last 5, 2 chain, 3 treble with 2 chain between, 
 missing 2 stitches under the 2 chain, 2 chain, i slip stitch in the last 
 of the 18 chain. 
 
 2nd round : 2 double over the ist 2 chain, 2 double with i purl 
 between over the next 2 chain, 2 double over the next 2 chain, i 
 purl, 7 double over the next 5 chain ; then, on the other side of the 
 branch, i purl, 2 double, i purl, 2 double, 2 double with one purl 
 between, 2 double on the last 2 chain of the branch, i slip stitch in 
 the stitch from which the leaf was begun, 5 double over the 4 chain 
 of the circle. Here begins the second branch. 
 
 1st round of the 2nd leaf. — 22 chain double in the last, so as to 
 form a circle. 
 
 2nd round: i double in each of the 10 first chain, in the next 
 stitch work i double, i chain, i double to form the point, i double 
 in each of the 10 remaining stitches, i slip stitch in the ist stitch 
 of the 1st round. 
 
 3rd round : 3 double, i purl, repeat from * twice more, then work 
 in double crochet as far as the point, work 2 double with i chain 
 between, then work the 2nd half of the branch the same as the ist. 
 Before beginning the next leaf, work 5 double on the chain stitches 
 of the circle ; work 6 branches, repeating alternately the 2 above 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 73 
 
 explained ; cut the cotton and fasten it on again to the point of one 
 of the branches, in order to join them together by the two follow- 
 ing rounds :— 
 
 1st round: i double in the point of one of the leaves, * 4 chain, 
 I purl under the chain ; thus make 5 chain, turn the chain with the 
 crochet to the right, insert the needle downwards in the first chain, 
 and make a slip stitch, 4 chain, i purl under, 4 chain, i purl under, 
 4 chain, i slip stitch in the point of the next leaf, repeat from * five 
 times more. 
 
 2nd round : * 4 double over the nearest 4 chain ; i purl as usual 
 — that is, above the chain — 4 double over the next 4 chain. Now 
 work I trefoil (thus : i chain, i purl, i chain, i purl, i chain, i 
 double in the i double coming just before the 3 purl), i double on 
 each of the next 4 chain of last round, i purl, 5 double, i trefoil, 
 repeat five times from *. 
 
 Join the stars by a few stitches. 
 
 For many of the designs in knitting and crocheting, to be found 
 in our manual, we are indebted to the New York Tribune extra, 
 and to the Household, a paper published in Brattleboro, Vt. 
 
LACE MAKING. 
 
 There is perhaps no more beautiful and artistic occupation for 
 women, than that of working lace. It is an industry so fascinating 
 as to engage the lady of wealth, as well as the dweller in the cot- 
 tage, and a knowledge of this art enables any one of taste to man- 
 ufacture for themselves many articles of personal adornment, which 
 becomes of double value from being the work of their own hands. 
 
 It has been considered that this art is one almost unattainable 
 when in reality it is so simple that any one who can thread a needle, 
 and use it for any kind of fine sewing may as easily make point 
 lace. It is not given to all ladies to possess from their ancestors 
 OLD POINT laces, but by a careful study of this little manual of 
 needlework, they may be able to possess exquisitely worked speci- 
 mens of MODERN POINT, wrought by their own hands. We shall 
 endeavor to make plain by means of cuts, and diagrams, some of 
 the different stitches, and give such a variety that one can easily 
 take up more intricate work when they desire. 
 
 The materials to be used are not expensive or numerous. TRAC- 
 ING CLOTH we mention first, but is only needed by ladies if they 
 desire to copy their own patterns from point lace. A piece of 
 LEATHER Or OIL CLOTH, various linen braids of different widths 
 and kinds, and lace CORDS resembhng the satin stitch embroidery. 
 These cords vary in size from a fine crochet cord, to that of a coarse 
 piping cord, and are used in ornamenting the edge of braids and sen^e 
 as heading to edging ; they also are used in light fine work, in place 
 of braids. The thread used in making lace is a fine Hnen thread 
 and comes in numbers ranging from No. 2, to No. 40, No. 2 being 
 the coarsest, and No. 40 the finest. All these materials and also 
 the patterns traced can be purchased for the different kinds of lace 
 work. Patterns traced on green leather are preferable to those on 
 any other color, as green is better for the eyesight. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 75 
 
 We give cuts A, B, C, and i, 2, 3, 4 as illustrating the braids 
 chiefly used in making lace. 
 
 In working begin at the left hand, working from left to right un- 
 less in reverse rows. When the braid is cut off, a few stitches 
 should be run through and through the end of the braid to prevent 
 its widening, and when it becomes necessary to join a braid, which 
 
 should always be avoided if possible, turn back the ends, sew care- 
 fully together over and over, and then stitch down each portion 
 separately. When passing the thread from one portion of the work 
 to another, run the thread through the center of the braid, or where 
 it will show as little as possible, and when commencing the work 
 and in finishing also, it should be neatly and tightly fastened. 
 
 The next thing to be considered, and one which is of greatest im- 
 portance in the work, is PLACING THE BRAID. In cut No. i the 
 pattern traced, the mode of tacking on the braid, and the work in 
 process, are all illustrated. The stitches used in " running on " the 
 
76 
 
 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 braid are quite close, as much depends upon keeping the braid 
 smoothly in its place. The braid as will be observed should be 
 
 Cut \ 1 I 
 
 carefully folded over at the points in the pattern, and all the inner 
 parts of the curves should be neatly whipped over and over, as if 
 for fine gathering, and then drawn up to the form of the curve 
 which keeps the braid in place and serves as a part of the work 
 when completed. 
 
 Cut No. 2. 
 
 The stitches used are stitches proper, or points, CONNECT- 
 ING BARS, FINISHING EDGINGS, WHEELS and ROSETTES. By 
 
 attention to the following stitches, the rudiments of the art of lace 
 making may be easily acquired, and lovely bits of lace produced, 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 77 
 
 but of course, as will be seen by close scrutiny of specimens of old 
 point lace, there are many more stitches used by the expert lace 
 makers. 
 
 Cut No. 3. 
 
 Cut No. 4. 
 
 Cut No. 2, Point d'Espagne (Spanish Point), is worked from 
 left to right. The needle is passed under the stitch, and brought 
 out in front, thus twisting the thread. At the end of each row 
 fasten the thread to the braid, and return by sewing back, putting 
 the needle once in every open stitch. 
 
 Cut No. 5, 
 
 Cut No, 6. 
 
 Cut No. 3 is used for groundwork and is very effective, it is 
 called Point de Fillet, or net groundwork stitch. 
 
78 
 
 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 Cut 4 illustrates Point de Fillet in conjunction with Point 
 DE Reprise, the last named stitch being simply a darning 
 over and under of the bars which had previously been made. This 
 stitch is quickly worked, and an examination of the cuts referred to 
 will give a better idea of the manner of working these stitches than 
 written description could possibly do. 
 
 Cut No, 7. 
 
 Cuts 5 and 6 represent the Sorento Wheel. This is worked by 
 fastening the thread in the pattern to be filled, according to the 
 letters seen in cut 5. Fasten first at the place a, then at the 
 \-^<it b, carrying the thread back to the middle of this bar, by wind- 
 ing' it around, then fastening again the thread at c, and so on, then 
 the thread is worked over and under the bars as seen in cut 6, 
 which forms the wheel. 
 
 Raleigh bars are worked over a net work made of thread, 
 (See cut 7) twisted in places so as to make the desired form. After 
 the groundwork is formed these threads are worked over in button 
 hole, or Bruxelle stitch. To form the dot or picot as seen incut 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 79 
 
 8, the thread is twisted on the needle the same as in railway stitch 
 (See cut No. 13 in article on fancy needle-work). 
 
 The Venetian bar is so simple as hardly to require description. 
 It is worked over two straight threads in button-hole stitch ; these 
 bars may be used to fill up spaces in any part of the work where 
 filling is necessary. 
 
 Cut No. 8. 
 
 MEDALLION IN POINT LACE. 
 
 Cut No. 9. This medallion is useful for the ends of neckties, as 
 trimming for jackets, dresses, etc. The mode of working it is 
 quite simple. Place the braid as before directed, work rosette (._ 
 cut 6) in the center ; fill in the open spaces with Point de Fillet 
 (Cut 3) and your medallion is finished. 
 
 In Cut 10 is shown a very simple pattern for the end of a necktie. 
 Take braid marked a, place upon pattern as before described, and 
 fill in with fine thread, making the center in Sorento wheels, see 
 cuts 5 and 6. 
 
8o 
 
 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 Cut No. lo. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 at 
 
 HONITON LACE. 
 
 Is made of a braid called Honiton braid. The mode of making 
 is much the same as in point lace, the tracing and sewing on the 
 braid being done precisely the same. In cut No. 1 1 only a few 
 
 Cut No. g. 
 
 Stitches and twisted bars are introduced, the purl edge must 
 always be used, as the lace braid is of too light a texture to admit 
 of having a heavy edge worked upon it. 
 
 Cuts 12 and 13 give two very beautiful designs which can be put 
 to a variety of uses ; they give the style of using the braids marked 
 2, 3 and 4 in combination with the point braids marked A, B and 
 C. The purling on the edge of the work seen in these cuts can be 
 purchased and is run on with a fine thread when the work is 
 finished. 
 6 
 
82 
 
 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 Cut No, 12. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK, 
 
 DARNED WORK. 
 
 83 
 
 This style of work was done by our grandmothers, and much of 
 the edging for capes, collars and cap borders was worked by their 
 dextrous fingers. Within a few years it has again revived under 
 
 Cut No. 13, 
 
 the name of Breton lace, which is nothing more or less than a 
 pattern carefully drawn in lace with a tine linen flloss. 
 
 The same work done on coarse net with coarse cotton is much 
 used for pillow shams, infant's crib and carriage covers, etc., and 
 
 «■ 
 
 Cut No. 14. , Cut No. 15. 
 
 when finished with a bright silk or selicia lining, is very pretty in 
 effect. Cuts No. 14 and 15 will give a better idea of the work than 
 a written description could do. 
 
MACRAME LACE. 
 
 The materials for making this lace are, first an oblong cushion, 
 which must be heavy. These look prettiest when made of some 
 bright color, either blue or scarlet, and are best made of silk or 
 Cashmere. The cushion rests on a small table. Two sizes of Ger- 
 man pins are also required. The larger size is for pinning on the 
 straight lines at both ends of the cushion, and the small ones are 
 used for putting between the threads on the top line to keep them 
 apart, and fasten the work to the cushion. 
 
 The straight lines may be cut the length of the lace required, and 
 should always be double threads ; but if cut too short for the pur- 
 pose, fresh threads may be joined to those, by tying them together 
 with a weaver's knot. The threads for working should be cut to 
 the exact size given with each pattern ; but when the required 
 length is not known, cut the threads considerably longer than is 
 necessary, and work out one scallop. Then measure how much 
 the fringe is deeper than required, and cut the next threads shorter 
 by so much. The coarse Italian twine is used in making the lace, 
 when intended for furniture, and the finer twine and linen thread, 
 of various sizes, for dress trimmings or altar linen ; the lace is 
 peculiarly adapted to this latter purpose. The lace is also very 
 handsome when made of Maltese silk, either in black or bright 
 colors. 
 
 The lace is made by knotting threads togethef. One thread is 
 held firmly over the other as leader, and each single thread is 
 knotted twice upon it. When a leaf is worked from right to left, 
 the leader is held in the left hand, and when a leaf is worked from 
 left to right, the leader is held in the right hand. Pin on as many 
 straight lines as are required for the pattern. 
 
 In commencing a pattern, fasten the threads for working to 
 the top line as follows : — Pass the two ends of each thread under 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 85 
 
 the line, pointing them up, then draw them back through the loop, 
 repeat to the end of the cushion, then put in a pin between every 
 four threads, then loosen the second line, hold it firmly in the right 
 hand, and knot each thread twice upon it with the left hand. The 
 
 Cut No. I. 
 
 straight lines are always worked in this way. 
 should be worked tightly, as it adds much 
 durabilit\ . 
 
 The lace as a rule 
 to its beauty and 
 
86 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 A.— SINGLE CHAIN. 
 
 Take two threads, hold one straight in the left hand, knot the 
 other thread to it once with the right hand ; hold this thread 
 straight in the right hand and knot the other on to it with the left. 
 Repeat. 
 
 B.— DOUBLE CHAIN. 
 
 This is made in the same way as the single chain, but with four 
 threads, using two threads each time instead of one. 
 
 C— OPEN CHAIN. 
 
 Take four threads, commence with the two at the left side, hold 
 the first of these in the right hand as leader, knot the second twice 
 to it with the left hand, pass the same leader to the left hand, 
 knot the same thread as before twice to it : take the next two 
 threads, hold the first thread in the right hand as leader, knot the 
 second thread twice to it, pass the leader to the left hand, knot 
 the same thread as before twice to it, hold the leader still in the 
 left hand, and knot the first leader twice to it with the right 
 hand ; knot the remaining thread at the left side twice to it, leav- 
 ing a loop before drawing it up tight.* Pass the same leader 
 back to the right hand, and knot the same thread twice to it 
 with the left hand. Then take up the two threads at the right 
 side, hold the under one in the right hand, as leader, knot the 
 other thread twice to it, leaving a loop as before. Pass the same 
 leader to the left hand, and knot the same thread twice to it. 
 Hold the leader still in the left hand, and knot the leader at the left 
 side twice to it ; knot the remaining thread at the left side to it, 
 leaving a loop as before. Then pass the leader back to the right 
 hand, and knot same thread twice on to it. Repeat from *. 
 
 * It would be Well to observe that, in making this open chain, after the loops are 
 made, the leader is always passed into the other hand, and the thread knotted twice 
 to it. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 87 
 
 D.— SOLOMON'S KNOTS. 
 
 Take four threads, hold the two center ones straight ; pass the 
 thread at left side loosely over these. Take the thread at right side, 
 pass it over the first thread under the center ones, and up through 
 the loop at the left side ; draw it up tight. Then take the right- 
 hand thread, pass it over the two center ones loosely, take the left 
 thread, pass it over this, under the center ones, and up through the 
 loop at the right side ; draw it up tight to meet the first part of the 
 knot. This forms one Solomon's Knot. 
 
 E.— RAISED PICOT. 
 
 The raised Picot mostly comes between two leaves. Take the 
 four center threads — -two from each leaf — hold the two center ones 
 straight and make six Solomon's knots on to them ; pass the two 
 center threads down through the opening between the two leaves ; 
 take one of these threads and knot it once to the thread at the left 
 side, take up the other and knot it once to the remaining thread at 
 the right side. 
 
 NO. 2. 
 ( Threads for this Pattern one yard and two inches?) 
 
 Pin on the straight lines in the usual way, then fasten on the 
 threads to the top line, after which loosen the second line, and knot 
 each thread twice to it with the left hand. Make a row of Sol- 
 omon's knots thus : — Take four threads ; hold the two center ones 
 straight, pass the thread at the left side over them loosely, then pass 
 the thread at the right side over this, under the two center ones, 
 and up through the loop at the left side ; draw it up tight. Then 
 pass the right thread over the two center ones, pass the left thread 
 over this, under the center ones, and up through the loop at the 
 right side; draw it up tight to meet the first part of the knot. 
 Repeat to the end of cushion. Then loosen the third line, -jhold it 
 in the right hand, and knot each thread twice to it with the left. 
 
 First Oval. — *Take eight threads ; divide them into tw^ parts. 
 Begin by holding the fourth thread in the left hand as leader, and 
 
88 
 
 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 Cut No. 2. 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 89 
 
 knot each of the three threads twice to it with the right ; then 
 take the next four threads, hold the first of these in the right hand 
 as leader and knot the three threads to it with the left hand ; 
 then take the two center threads from each side and make a Solo- 
 mon's knot ; then take the first leader, hold it in the right hand, and 
 knot the three threads to it ; then take the second thread, hold it 
 in the left hand, and knot the seven threads to it with the right 
 hand. Then divide the eight threads : take the four at the right 
 side, hold the first (at the left side) in the right hand, knot the 
 three threads to it with the left hand ; then take the two center 
 threads from each side and make a Solomon's knot ; then take the 
 leader at the right side, hold it in the left hand, knot three threads 
 to it ; then take the leader at the left side, hold it in the right 
 hand, and knot the remaining three threads to it with the left 
 hand. Repeat from * to the end of the cushion. Then loosen the 
 fourth line, hold it in the right hand, and knot each thread twice 
 to it with the left hand. Repeat this to the end of the cushion ; 
 and for the scallop, take eight threads and repeat from * six times. 
 Then take the top leader from the second oval, hold it in the left 
 hand, and knot the four threads of the first oval to it with the 
 right hand ; then take the top thread at the left side, hold it in the 
 right hand, and knot the three threads of the second oval to it. 
 Then make a Solomon's knot in the middle with the four center 
 threads; then take the leader at the left side, hold it in the right 
 hand, and knot three threads to it with the left ; then take the 
 leader at the right side, hold it in the left hand, and knot the four 
 threads to it with the right. Repeat until there are five small 
 ovals ; then make four under these in the same way, and three un- 
 der the four — and so on — to form the scallop, until it comes to one. 
 If preferred, the fringe may then be knotted, which gives it a rich 
 effect. — See No. 4 Pattern. 
 
 NO. 3. 
 
 ( Threads f 07- this Pattern one yard three inches !o7ig^ 
 
 Pin on the straight lines in the usual way, after which fasten on 
 the threads thus : — Pass the two ends of each thread under the 
 top line, pointing them up, then bring them through the loop, then 
 loosen the second line, hold it in the right hand, and knot each 
 
■go MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 thread twice to it with the left hand. Then take two threads : 
 hold the first in the left hand, knot the other three times to it 
 with the right hand ; repeat this to the end of the cushion. Then 
 take one thread from each : hold one in the right hand, and knot the 
 other to it with the left hand ; repeat to end of cushion. Then 
 loosen the third line at the right side, hold it in the right hand, and 
 knot each thread twice to it with the left hand. *Take the first 
 
 Cut No. 3. 
 
 six threads, hold the first thread in the right hand as leader, knot 
 the five threads to it with the left hand, each thread twice ; then 
 make the second row of the leaf thus : — Hold the first thread at the 
 left side again in the right hand, knot each of the five threads twice 
 to it with the left hand ; then take the next six threads, hold the 
 sixth thread in the left hand as leader, and knot each of the five 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. '9I 
 
 threads to it with the right hand : then make the second row of 
 the leaf by holding the sixth thread again in the left hand and knot- 
 ting each of the five threads to it with the right ; then hold the 
 same thread as leader in the left hand, and knot the leader of the 
 first leaf twice to it ; then make the third leaf, hold the same 
 leader still in the left hand, and knot the threads to it with the 
 right hand ; then take the six threads and repeat for a second line ; 
 then take the six threads at the right side, hold the first of these 
 (that is the left side one) in the right hand and make the fourth 
 leaf, knotting the threads on with the left hand ; repeat for the 
 second line ; repeat from * to the end of the cushion ; then loosen 
 the fourth line, and knot each thread twice to it in the usual way. 
 
 *FoR THE Scallop. — Take eight threads, divide them into two 
 parts ; take the first four threads, hold the first thread in the right 
 hand, and knot the three threads to it with the left hand. Sec- 
 ond Row of Leaf. — Take the first thread again, hold it in the right 
 hand and knot the three threads on with the left hand ; then take 
 the next four threads, hold the fourth thread as leader in the 
 left hand, and knot each of the three threads to it with the right. 
 Make the second row of the leaf in the same way ; hold the leader 
 still in the left hand, and join the two leaves by knotting the leader 
 of the first leaf twice to it. Repeat from * six times, then re- 
 duce it one in each row until the point is formed according to the 
 engraving ; then join the two leaders of the leaves at the point ; 
 then take the first thread at the left side, hold it in the right hand 
 as leader, and knot each thread three times to it down the side 
 of the scallop to form a continuous line ; then take the thread at 
 right side of the scallop, hold it in the left hand, and knot each 
 thread three times to it with the right hand ; then join the two 
 leaders by holding one tight and knotting the other twice to it ; 
 then take the first thread again at the left side and make a second 
 line, after which take the first thread at the right side, hold it in the 
 left hand and make a second line ; repeat at each side to form a 
 third line. The leader is always held at the top, and the threads 
 underneath, after which the threads are all held back, fastened 
 down with a needle and thread on the wrong side, and then cut 
 close. 
 
92 
 
 MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 NO. 4. 
 
 ( Threads for this Patter 71 to be one yard long.) 
 
 Commence by pinning- on the straight lines in the usual way 
 after which fasten on the threads for working, to the top or first 
 line. Pass the two ends of each thread under the line, pointing 
 them up, then draw them through the loop ; then loosen the second 
 Hne at the right side, and knot each thread twice to it with the 
 left hand. Then make a row of Solomon's knots with every four 
 
 Cut No. 4. 
 
 threads to the end, after which loosen the third line, and knot the 
 threads to it as before. Then take four threads and make three 
 Solomon's knots with them. Repeat to the end of the cushion. 
 Then loosen the fourth line, and knot each thread twice to it 
 with the left hand, as before ; then take the first four threads, hold 
 the first of these in the right hand as leader, at the top, and knot 
 the three threads to it with the left (each thread twice) ; then 
 pass the same leader to the left hand, and knot each of the three 
 threads to it with the right. Repeat this five times. Then 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 93 
 
 make two more chains, exactly the same as last. Then take six 
 threads : hold the first in the right hand as leader (the leader 
 should always be at top, and the threads underneath), and make a 
 leaf of two rows ; then take the next six threads : hold the one at 
 the right side in the left hand as leader, and make a leaf of two 
 rows ; then take the two center threads of each leaf, and with them 
 make a row of six Solomon's knots ; then pass the two center 
 threads of these four between the two leaves, pointing them down, 
 and knot these threads to the other two, to form the raised Picot. 
 Then take the center thread at the left side, hold it in the left hand 
 as leader, and knot the threads on with the right hand, to make the 
 lower leaf at the left side (two rows) ; then take the center thread 
 at the right side, hold it in the right hand as leader, and make the 
 lower leaf at the right side ; then make three more chains, and then 
 another star of four leaves, with raised Picot in the center. Repeat 
 to the end of cushion. Loosen the fifth line, and knot each thread 
 twice to it, as before. Take four threads, make three Solomon's 
 knots with these. Repeat to the end of cushion. Loosen the sixth 
 line, and knot each thread twice to it, as before ; then make a 
 row of Solomon's knots with every four threads ; then loosen the 
 seventh line, and knot each thread twice to it, as before. 
 
 To Finish off the Insertion. — Keep the last, line pinned 
 on at both ends ; take two threads, draw the second one up under 
 the line in a loop, pass the ends of both threads through this loop, 
 draw them up tight, to form a knot, same as the one at the top 
 line. The two threads will now be in front, between the two last 
 lines. Pass these threads to the back, one at each side of the knot, 
 tie them firmly together at the back ; sew these threads neatly to 
 the work, on the wrong side, with a needle and thread. Repeat to 
 the end of cushion, and then cut the threads close. 
 
RUG-MAKING. 
 
 TURKISH OR PERSIAN RUGS, 
 
 or at least as kandsotne, and in designs like the real imported rugs, 
 can now be made in your own home. They are quickly made, and 
 the designs can be bought all ready for working, or if one does not 
 
 care to go to the expense of buying them already marked, and has 
 taste and skill in designing, they can draw their own patterns. 
 
 The designs as purchased consist of animals, flowers, Persian 
 and Turkish figures. They are on burlap or jute cloth, and so 
 plainly marked in all the colors required that the most inexperi- 
 enced can readily make good work. They can be filled in with 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 95 
 
 various kinds of wool rags, or wool yarn. A hook is used in draw- 
 ing in, which is made expressly for the purpose, and when the 
 work has been neatly clipped or sheared off they imitate very closely 
 the best Turkish rugs. 
 
 The material used as a foundation for these rugs, as before men- 
 tioned, is burlap or jute cloth. The frame for holding the rug 
 while being worked is composed of four strips of board about two 
 inches wide, and about one inch in thickness. This frame can 
 be nailed together at the ends the size needed for the work, and 
 then placed upon the backs of four chairs; it can be easily obtained 
 however remote the person may be from city or town. A regular 
 frame supported by legs can be made by any carpenter, but the one 
 mentioned above is just as well for ordinary use. 
 
 The burlap or foundation should be strongly hemmed before 
 sewing it to the frame, which is done with a strong twine ; the 
 stitches in sewing in, should not be over one inch apart, as the pat- 
 tern requires to be held firm and even, as all irregularities will show 
 when the work is finished. The threads in the burlap are not al- 
 ways regular, but this will make no difference if the pattern is held 
 firm and fastened securely and squarely to the frame. If the mate- 
 rial used to work with is thick cloth or flannel, it should be cut 
 about one quarter of an inch in width, but thin cloth may be used 
 double that width, and folded together so as to make it about the 
 same width as the other. Cotton rags, of course, can be used, but 
 are not desirable as they so readily change color. There is no direc- 
 tions to be given in regard to the length of pieces required in draw- 
 ing in, as any length can be used, even that which will hook 
 through twice. The cloth should be held underneath the pattern, 
 and the hook should pass through the burlap from above, drawing 
 the material up through with the hook, leaving a loop about one 
 quarter of an inch above the pattern, then, after leaving about two 
 threads of the burlap between, the hook is again passed through 
 and drawn up as before. Continue this until the piece is all used, 
 always drawing the end of the piece through on the top, and the 
 material close to the burlap underneath. It is well to draw in the 
 outline of the figures first, then fill them in, before doing the ground- 
 work, and it is also much better to clip or shear the work as it pro- 
 gresses, as you are more likely thus to keep it even. 
 
9^ MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 If yarn is to be used instead of cloth or flannel, place several 
 threads together, but do not twist them, and work the same as 
 with rags, it will require from three to six threads according to the 
 size of the yarn used. 
 
 Taste and judgment in the use of colors must be used, if the 
 designs are drawn at home, but if the patterns are purchased, the 
 colors to be used are all imprinted upon them. The taste of the 
 worker may even then dictate other colors than those which are 
 stamped, so as to. utilize material which they may have on hand ; 
 in this work as in all work much depends upon individual taste, 
 and very handsome rugs may be thus executed with comparatively 
 little expense. 
 
 While writing of rugs, a very pretty rug may be made by raveling 
 out pieces of old tapestry carpets. The carpet is first cut into strips 
 of equal widths (say a finger in width), and raveled, taking care 
 that in raveling the threads are kept evenly together. Then take 
 a piece of buriap the size you wish your rug, lay a double row of 
 the threads raveled on one end, and with your sewing machine 
 and a coarse cotton, stitch through, and back again. Then lay back 
 the inner part of the row stitched on, and place another row of 
 stitching as before, the stitching should be about one inch apart. 
 This makes a pretty soft looking rug. The same may be done by 
 hand, but these rugs of course are not as durable as the Turkish 
 rugs before described. 
 
 KNITTED RUGS. 
 
 Another very pretty style of making rugs and one in which 
 many elderiy ladies delight, because of their love for knitting work, 
 is to take the threads of remnants of tapestry Brussels carpets 
 (these remnants can be purchased at the carpet stores), raveling, as 
 before described, and then knitting them into a rug as follows : 
 
 Take No. 8 crochet cotton, and No. 12 knitting needles, cast on 
 30 stitches more or less, and knit three times across. * Then slip i 
 stitch, knit i, put i of the worsted threads over the right hand 
 needle, carefully doubling the thread so it shall come precisely in 
 the middle, that the ends may be of equal length, knit the 3d 
 stitch, put on another thread of worsted, repeat until the last two, 
 which are knit plain. Next row slip i, knit i, take up the worsted 
 
MANUAL OF NEEDLEWORK. 97 
 
 and 3d stitch together and knit as i stitch, continue to knit thus, 
 taking the worsted and cotton together in every stitch across. Re- 
 peat from * alternating in this way until your strip is the length re- 
 quired. Three of these strips with a border added of about one- 
 half the width of one strip, makes a large-sized rug. Sew the 
 strips together over and over, or crochet them together on the 
 back. It is much easier to knit in strips, as the work becomes 
 heavy. It produces a good effect to knit the center strips in varie- 
 gated or mixed colors, and the border plain black, or some dark 
 color. 
 
 Many persons cut cloth or Hannel into narrow strips, say one- 
 fourth of an inch wide and 4 or 5 inches long, (or goods of any kind 
 can be utilized in this way that does not fray too much, cut 
 the thinner material a little wider), and knit the same as with the 
 worsted ravelings. 
 
'fui^ki^ll f{ug 'Pkttei^H^^. 
 
 TurkiBli Pattern No. 131. 
 
 OUR PATTERNS ARE TURKISH. 
 
 Animal, Flower, Scroll, and other designs, printed by hand on suitable jute cloth, 
 (burlaps) and are shaded in the various colors required to make them perfect. The 
 designs are not on paper, but cloth which forms the body of the rug, and are so 
 plain that a person with very little practice can fill them readily ana make good 
 work. They are filled with various kinds of rags or wool yarn, wi th a hook we make 
 expressly for the purpose, and the surface is clipped or sheared off, leaving about a 
 quarter of an inch risin" above the pattern, like the best Turkish Eugs, and when 
 well made they are equally handsome, and will outwear four ordinary carpet rugs. 
 They are splendid for needle-work— cross stitch— for the close attention required for 
 transferring designs from paper patterns is all saved, but the hook work is mor« 
 rapid and much more durable. 
 
 Pattern No. 19. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF DESIGNS AND RETAIL PRICES. 
 
 No. 7. Ys yards wide by 1% yards Jong. A large lion lying down and a small lion 
 in the back-ground, with a fine scenery of flowers and palm trees. Is very easy to 
 work, and makes a nice hearth rug. Price, 95 cents. 
 
 No. 61. Yi by 1-Sg yards. A very pretty center, consisting of fall blown roses. 
 buds, leaves, lilies and various other flowers, surrounded by an oval wreath of 
 flowers extending the whole length of the rug, \vith the Odd-Fellows' emblem of 
 three links entwined with leaves in the corners, making one of the finest patterns. 
 Price, 95 cents. 
 
 No. 22. Yi, by V/z yards. A very pretty scroll border, with a stag standing near 
 a lake of water, very pretty landscape, scenery, etc., in the center. A very nice 
 sofa rug. Price, 85 cents. 
 
 No. 39. i4hyV/4 yards. A cat and tliree kittens playing on the carpet in the 
 center, enclosed in a plain scroll.. Plain border with nice scroll in corners. A very 
 interesting design for those who are fond of our pets. AH new. Price, 85 cents. 
 
No. 51. Size and border same as No. 39, with a choice cluster of roses, leaves, 
 buds, etc., in center Price, 85 cents. 
 
 No. 90. ^^ by \% yards. Plain border with Grecian corners, choice cluster of 
 flowers in center, surrounded by a nice scroll. Plain, but extra new design Price, 
 85 cents. 
 
 No. 91. Ji by IJ^ yards. Same border and scroll as No. 90, with a large dog and 
 landscape scenery in the center. Price, 80 cents. 
 
 No. 76. ^ by IJ^ yards. A Grecian border in red ami black, with solid clusters 
 of flowers ot all kinds in center. This makes a handsome mat, and is so simple the 
 most inexperienced worker can make it easily. Prict', 75 cents. 
 
 No. 36 ^ by IJ^ yards. A wreath of leaves with scrolls in corners of border, 
 and a Spaniel dog (life size) lying on a carpet of diamonds in center. Very easy to 
 work. Price, 70 cents. 
 
 No. 96. ^ by 1 J^ yards A pretty scroll in red, brown and black, with a cluster 
 of ros /s, leaves, buds, etc., in center. Makes a very handsome rug. Price, 70cents 
 
 No. 95. Size and border same as No. 96, with a large cat on ottoman in center. 
 Price, 60 cents. 
 
 No. 52. ^ by \y% yards. Scroll border, a horseshoe in each corner and a horse's 
 head in center. All new. Price, 55 cents. 
 
 No. 24. % by \y^ yards. A rustic border in three colors, with pretty opening, 
 forming a frame for a picture of a life-size cat lying on a green carpet. The border 
 is entirely new, and the whole pattern is ea;^y to fill. Price, 55 cents. 
 
 No. 45, Yi by V/s yards. A border of autumn leaves with a wreath of flowers in 
 center. Easy to fill and very desirable. Price, 55 cents. 
 
 No. 44. Size and border same as No. 45, with dog of No. 19 in center. New 
 arrangement. Price, 55 cents. 
 
 No. 80. y^ by ^.y^ yards. A plain border with Grecian corners, and a stag head 
 in center. A splendid design for a door mat. Price, 55 cents. 
 
 No. 93. yihy 1% yards. A nice floral center, consisting of red and moss roses, 
 leaves, buds, lilies, etc., beautifully arranged, with a plain scroll surrounding tlie 
 center, and three autumn leaves in each corner, and a plain border. Price, 55 cents. 
 
 No. 43. % by 1 '4 yards. Same border and center scroll as No. 40, only th" scroll 
 is enlarged and the half wreath is left out. A new floral center, composed of roses, 
 pansies, bell flowers, buds, lilies and leaves. All new. Price, 65 cents. 
 
 No. 40. J^ by 1 yard. A rose and leaves in each corner; a border in shades of 
 red, brown and orange; a neat flower center surrounded by a handsome scroll ; a 
 rose and leaves forming a half wreath at each end between the scroll and border. 
 All new. Price, 45 cents. 
 
 No. 19. J^ by 1 yard. A Sjianiel dog lying on a box, very clearly printed in moss 
 and brown colors in center. A branch with roses, leaves and buds at each end, and 
 a plain border. Price 45 cents. 
 
 No. 49. J^ by 1 yard. A very neat scroll border with a cat lying on ottoman in 
 center. Very plain and easy to work. Price, 45 cents. 
 
 No. 63. Same size and design as No. 40, except the Odd-Fellow's emblem of 
 three links, with letters F.L.T. enclosed, is in each end in place of the half wreath. 
 Price, 45 cents. 
 
 No. 97. }^ by 1 yard. A plain border in two colors, with small cluster of flowers 
 in corners with a center piece of flowers and scroll work. This pattern once seen 
 speaks for i r self . Price, 45 cents . 
 
 No. 98. J^ by 1 yard. Same border as No. 97. with a very pretty wreath of 
 morning glories, roses, bell flowers, etc., for a center. Price, 45 cents. 
 
 No 75. Size, border and center scroll same as No . 97, with Free Mason's em- 
 blem in center. Price, 45 cents. 
 
 No. 66. 4-9 by % yards. Plain border with a small scroll in corner, a center of 
 flowers, etc. This was designed for a carriage or sleigh mat, but looks well wher- 
 ever you put it. Price, 35 cents. 
 
No. 79. 4-9 by % yards. A plain border, with a small cluster of flowers pnr- 
 roundod by plain scroll work in center. A nice carriage or door mat. Price, 35 cents. 
 
 The following patterns are tertj choice new Turkish designs, with groundwork 
 and all colored : 
 
 LATEST STYLES. 
 
 No. 130. J4 by 1 yard. Turkish design. Price, 50 cents. 
 
 No. 131. J^ by 1 yard. Turkish design. Price, 50 cents. 
 
 No. 186. 4-9 by 1 yard. Turkish design. Price, 45 cents. 
 
 No. 140. 5^ by 1^ yards. Turkish design . Price, CO cents. 
 
 No. 150. Yx by \y^ yards. Turkish design. Price, 70 cents. 
 
 No. 180. 1 by 2 yards. Turkish design. Price, "$1.40. 
 
 No. 170. ?^ by 1^ yards. Turkish design. $1.20. 
 
 OTTOMAN AND FOOT-REST PATTERNS. 
 
 No. 2. 14 by 20 inches. Plain oval border in red and black, a branch of full and 
 half-blown roses, leaves and bud^, in center. Price, 20 cents. 
 
 No. 8. 20 bv 20 inches. Octagon border, and n floral center of pansies, rose, bell 
 flower,-:, leaves and buds. All new. Price, 25 cents. 
 
 No. 5. 20 by 20 inches. Plain black and red border, formed of eight quarter 
 circles; a rose with green and auiumn leaves around it for acenter. Price, 25 cents. 
 
 No. 6. A cat's head for a center. Price, 25 cents. 
 No. 7. A dog's head for a center. Price, 25 cents. 
 No. 9. A new and very pretty floral center. Price, 25 cents. 
 No.". 6, 7 and 9 are the same size and border as No. 5, and can be filled out either 
 square, round or octagon, and are also nice for chair cushion covers. 
 
 Retail price of rug-hooks, 25 cents. Clamps, CO cents per set of four. Perfect 
 skein, all wool carpet flllino; yarn, $1.00 i)er lb. We do not keep waste carpet yarn 
 now, for it is in too short pieces to bo w orth using. 
 
 NEW PATTERNS. 
 
 No. 160. y^ by \y2 yards. Turkish design. Price, $1 .GO. 
 
 No. 41. J^ by 1 yard. A floral cen er of red roses, buds, pansies, lilly, bell 
 flowers and leaves, surrounded by a scroll in brown and orange, and a jjlain border. 
 Price, .50 cent*. 
 
 GOODS BY MAIL. 
 
 To favor those not able to get our patterns and hooks otherwise, we send them by 
 mail, postage paid, on receipt of price name,.. Yarns by mail must have 17 cents 
 per lb. extra, and clamps 25 cents ])er set, extra, to pay postage. Send money in a 
 registered letter or post-ofhce order, and it will reach us safely. Money in common 
 letters is at sender's risk. 
 
 TERMS— 0. O. D. (cash on delivery ) 
 
 CANVASSERS WANTED. 
 
 Address, PATTEN PUBLISHING COMPANY, 
 
 47 BARCLAY STREET, NEW YORK. 
 
WAX FLOWERS WITHOUT A TEACHER. 
 
 The growing taste for making WAX FLOWERS, and the difficulty which we 
 know people in country towns experience, and the expense tluy often incur in 
 learning the beautiful art, and in obtaining the material and tools to work witli, has 
 given us the idea of putting up the materials and tools in boxes, with complete in- 
 structions for making WAX FLOWERS and LEAVES to accompany each box. 
 These instructions will be so plain, concise and practical, that persons of ordinary 
 ingenuity and good taste will have no trouble in constructing by them all kinds of 
 leaves and flowers, and even forming elegant bouquets, wreaths, crosses, etc., etc. 
 In order to introduce the knowledge of constructing Wax Leaves of all description, 
 and to initiate the beginner in the art of u.oldiug tlie wax, we have put up and 
 have now ready 
 
 Box No. l.-IVY LEAVES. 
 
 Containing different shades of green wax, brass mold, together with wire, in- 
 structions, etc. A complete outfit for constructing ge^tral fine vines of Ivy Leaves. 
 
 PRICE BY MAIL, POST-PAID, FIFTY CENTS. 
 
 Box No. 2.-AUTUIV1N LEAVES. 
 
 Now ready, contains a variety of different colored wax, brass molds, molding 
 tools, color in bottles, wire, brushes, etc., with instructions for making a variety of 
 AUTUMN LEAVES, and all in sufficient quantity to make several groups of each 
 kind. 
 
 PRICE BY MAIL, POST-PAID, $2.50. 
 
 Box No. 3.-VARIETY OF FLOWERS. 
 
 Contains wax of different colors, brass leaf molds, molding tools, colors m 
 bottles, wire, brushes, etc., in t^ufflcienf. quantity to make several Fuchsias, Lilies 
 of the Valley, Pansies and Blush Roses, etc. 
 
 PRICE BY MAIL, POST-PAID, $2.50. [See next page.] 
 
Box No. 7.-POND LILY. 
 
 This box contain.s material for makiiit; a nuinber of pond lilies and leaves. It 
 consists of white and two shades of green wax— thick and made for this particular 
 use — papers of coloring matters, bloom, brush, wire, molding pin and pond lily 
 brass leaf mola. 
 
 PRICE, $1.25. 
 
 AND 
 
 FRUIT MODELING 
 
 WITHOUT A TEACHER. 
 
 With Illustrations and Diagrams. 
 
 A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE ART OF MODELING 
 
 AND COLORING WAX SO AS TO IMITATE ALMOST 
 
 ANY KIND OF FLOWER OR FRUIT. 
 
 ALSO 
 
 Teaches How to l^ake Waz Leaves, Crosses, etc. 
 
 I>R,ICE as CENTS. 
 
 The above is the title-page to our book on Wax Flower Modeling, 
 etc., and indicates the scope and design of the work. It is written 
 by a practical worker in wax, and is so plain that, by its use, almost 
 anyone can, without other teaching, learn to make Wax Flowers and 
 Fruit. In fact, several persons, to our knowledge, have become suc- 
 cessful teachers of the art without any other instruction than what 
 they obtained from the pages of this book. 
 
 It will be sent free with every order for Wax Material amounting 
 to $1.50, and will also be sent'free Willi each of the above boxes, 
 except the Box No. I. 
 
 Address PATTEN PUBLISHING CO., 
 
 4r7 Barclay Street, New York. 
 
BEAUTIFUL BOOKS FOR LADIES. 
 
 liADIGS' FANCY WORK.— A charming book, devoted to Feather Work, 
 Paper Flowers, FireScreer.s, Shrines, Rastic Pictures, a charming series of Designs 
 for Easter Crosses, Straw Ornaments, Shell Flowers and Shell Work, Bead, Mosaic, 
 and Fish Scale Embroidery, Hair Work and Cardboard Ornaments, Cottage Foot 
 Rests, Window Garden Decorations, Crochet Work. Designs in Embroidery, and an 
 immense variety of other Fancy Work to delight all lovers of Household Art aud 
 Recreation. Price, $1.50; gilt, $2.00. 
 
 HOUSEHOLD HINTS AND RECIPES.— This is not a Cook Book 
 but a valuable little book devoted to house-keeping topics, and full of useful items, 
 hints and directions about the house in all its departments,' from the kitchen to the 
 parlor, bed-room and attic. It contains a wonderful amount of real good practical 
 information about housework, and there are recipes by the hundred so valuable 
 that no prudent housekeeper can affonl to l)e without them. A single hint may 
 save hermany dollars in money, or much wasted time and trouble. Price 50 cents, 
 paper covers. 
 
 FRET SAVriNfl FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT.— WILLIAMS' 
 HAND-BOOIv OF INSTRUCTION'S IN FRET SAWING.— This new book is full 
 of valuable information to all who are interested in Fret Saw Work, and contains a 
 multitude of complete aud practical directions how to become successful in the use 
 of the Scroll Saw, large or small, and all the other accompanying tools. The 
 following list of contents will give a fair idea of its character: Hints on Materials, 
 Saws (hand and foot-power), Saw Frames, Treadle Machinery, Tools and Imple- 
 ments, Glue Polish, Sand Paper, Paste. L'sing Fret Saw Designs, Marquetry, Wood 
 Carving, Overlaying, Cutting-Out Work, Beveling Edges, Putting Work Together, 
 Warping of Wood, Inlaid Work, the Pleasure and Profit of Fret Sawing, etc. In 
 addition there are given numerous illustrations and designs of fancy articles, and of 
 all materials explained in the directions. In appearance the book is exceedingly 
 handsome, of unusually h.andsome decorations, and in price it is the cheapest of all 
 publications relating to the subject. Price by mail, post-paid, 50 cents, paper 
 covers; $1 cloth. 
 
 HOUSEHOLD ELEOANCIES.— A splendid book on Household Art, de- 
 voted to a multitude of topics interesting to ladies everywhere. Among the most 
 popular topics are: Transparencies on Glass, Leaf Work, Autumn Leaves, Wax 
 Work, Painting Leather Work, Fret Work, Picture Frames, Brackets, Wall 
 Pockets, Work Boxes and Baskets, Straw Work, Skeleton Leaves, Hair Work, 
 Shell Work, Mosaic, Crosses, Cardboard Work, Worsted Work, Spatter Work, 
 Mosses, Cone Work, etc. Hundreds of exquisite illustrations decorate the pages, 
 which are full to overflowing with hints and devices to every one, how to ornament 
 their home cheaply, tastefully, and delightfully with fancy articles of their own con- 
 struction. By far the most popular and elegant gift book of the year. 300 pages, 
 265 illustrations. Price, $1.50; gilt, $2. Sent post-paid by mail. 
 
 BEAUTIFUL HOMES.— DEVOTED TO HOUSE FURNISHING.— 
 
 Everything relating to the picturesque furnishing of bed-room, hall, parlor, sitting- 
 room; how to beaiitifuUy arrange all the rooms of the houses, is described. Carpets, 
 Wash-stands, Wall-paper, tlie Living-Room, the Parlor, Bed-Rooms. Halls, Umbrella 
 Stands, Door Mottoes, Toilet and Dressing Tables, Curtains, Lambrequins, Screens, 
 the Library, Cabinets, Etageres, tlio Dining-Room, Window Screens and Blinds, 
 Mantels, Cliairs, Rugs, Ottomans, Tables and Stands, Sofas, Lounges, Foot Stools, 
 Cushions. Afghans, Baskets, Racks, Tidies, JMiscellaneous Conveniences, etc. 
 Contains over 300 pages, 350 illustration's. Price, $1.50; by mail, post-paid. Gilt. $2. 
 
 EVENING AMUSEMENTS ; OR HOW TO ENTERTAIN COMPANY. 
 —A splendid book for j-oungLadies, Gentlemen and Children. This volume con- 
 tains over 250 Games an<l Ways of Entertaining Company, and amusing young 
 people at school, at parties, in home sports, picnics, for Christmas charades, 
 tableaux, and all social occasions. Fireside Games. Tricks of Magic, Mystery, and 
 Conjuring, Cards, Riddles, Acrostics, etc. Price, $1.50; cloth, or gilt, $2.00. Post- 
 paid by mail. 
 
WINDOW GARDENING.— A ready and invaluable aid to all who wish to 
 adorn their houses in the easiest and most successful manner with plants or vines, 
 or flowers. Instructions arc given as to the best selections of plants lor Baskets or 
 Ferneries and Wardian Cases. Several chapters are devoted to llaDginy Baskets, 
 Climbing Vines, Smilax, and the Ivy, for decorative purposes. Bulbs for House 
 Culture are fully described; also ornamental plants for Dinner Table Decoration. 
 Other topics are well considered, such as Balcony Gardens, IIouse-Top Gardening, 
 Watering Plants, Home Conservatories, Fountains, Vases, Flower Stands, Soil, Air, 
 Temperatur;>, Propagation, Floral Boxes, the Aquarium, RTistic ConveTiionce>^ for 
 nousehold Ornament, and directions in detail for the general management, of in- 
 door plants for the entire year throucrhout the winter, spring, summer and fall. The 
 volume contains 300 pages, and is profusely illustrated with 250 choice engravings. 
 Price, $1.50; gilt, $2.00: 
 
 HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN DRESSES.— PRACTICAL LEC- 
 TURES ON DRESS-MAKING, with 300 lUuttrutious and Diagrams, by Mrs. 
 Bm-dette Smith. — The design of this book is to give such plain and practical instruc- 
 tion in the art of Dress making, that any lady of ordinary ability and ingenuity in 
 the nse'of her scissors and needle, may, without other instruction than she finds 
 here, become an accomplished Dressmaker. In order to make this as easy of 
 acquirement as i>ossible, the authoress has introduced a large number of illustra- 
 tions and diagrams and these are so fully explained that a personal interview with 
 the writer would not make the matter easier of comprehension. Tlie Lectures em- 
 brace the wliole system of plain and artistic dress-making, including dress-making 
 for Girls and making clothes for boys, with important hints in regard to taste in 
 dress, the selection of material aiul the choice of colors. Instruction is also given 
 in various kinds Embroidery, Plain and Fancy Needle-work, Crewel- work, "Lace 
 Making, etc., etc. Price post-paid .'j5 cts., two copies for 60 cts. 
 
 THE PERFECT LETTER WRITER.— A complete and instructive 
 guide for the correspondent, coulaiiuni,' a very superior and original collection of 
 Mi-cellaneons Business.Lettcrs of Application for Employment, Letters of Recom- 
 mendation, Familiar and Social Correspondence, Congratulation and Condolence, 
 Notes of Ceremony and Compliment, Rules for Conducting Public Debates and 
 Meetings, Postal Notes and Regulations, business Laws and Maxims, Titles and 
 Forms of Address, etc., etc. 16mo. KW pages. Price, 30 cts. 
 
 ECONOITIICAli COOK BOOK .—TEACHES HOW TO PREPARE NICE 
 DISHES .\T A MODERATE COST.— It contains over 400 carefully tried recipe-^, 
 selected and arranged by a practical house-keeper. The compiler, in offering the 
 public this volume feels that it will supply a long-fc^it want. Theso receipts arc 
 published for the benefit of those who like good plain living without incurring 
 unnecessary expense. All directions are given in a clear concise manner. This 
 valuable book contains 128 pages neatly bound, and is the best COOK BOOK ever 
 published for the price, which is 30 cents post paid. 
 
 CHOICE SELECTIONS FOR AUTOGRAPH ALBUIflS.— 
 
 This is a book of 64 pages, with cover, and contains over 300 apt and Choice 
 Selections and quotations in prose and poetry for Autograph Albums, Letters, 
 Valentines, etc. It is full of wit, wisdom and tender sentiment. Price each by 
 mail post-paid 15 cents. To Agents by the dozen post-paid GO cents. 
 
 FROST'S LAW^S AND BY-LAWS OF AMERICAN SOCIETY. 
 
 — A condensed but thorough treatise of Etiquette and its usages in America. Con- 
 taining plain and reliable directions for deportment on the following subjects : 
 Letters of Introduction, Salutes and Salutations, Calls, Conversations, Invitations, 
 Dinner Company, Balls, Morning and Evening Parties, Visiting, Street Etiquette, 
 Riding and Drivincr, Traveling; Etiquette in Church, Etiqnette'in Places of Amuse- 
 ment; Servants, Hotel Etiquette. Etiquette in Weddings, Baptisms and Fttnerals; 
 Etiquette with Cliildren and at the Card Table; A'isiting Cards. Letter Writing, the 
 Ladies' Toilet, the Oenileman's Toilet; besides one hundred unclassified laws appli- 
 cable to all occasions. P:i per covers. Price, 30 cents. 
 
 HOW TO AMUSE AN EVENING PARTY.^A complete collection 
 of Homo Recreations^, including Round Games, Forfeits, Parlor Magic. Puzzles and 
 Comic Diversions; together witli a great variety of Scientific Recreations and 
 Evening Amusements. Profusely illustrated with nearly two hundred fine wood- 
 cuts. Here is family amusement for the million. Here is parlor or drawing room 
 entertainment nicrht "after niirht for a whole winter. A young man with this volume 
 may render himself the " beau ideal" of a delightful companion at every party. 
 Price. 30 cents. 
 
tt^^^'Jk*^,**? china; what to PAINT AND HOW TO PAINT 
 IT.-A hand-book of practical instruction in Overglaze Painting, for the use of 
 Amateurs in the Decoration of Hard Porcelain. By James C. Beard. This work 
 affords elaborate information on all points necessary for success in the Art of China 
 Decoration, givin^a complete list of the colors especially adapted for this purpose 
 vv th their composition showing the changes they undergo and the effect produced 
 when subjectecf to the heat required for the " firing " process. It describes al the 
 necessaryapphances and explains their uses; it gives thorough instruction in the 
 best methods adapted to simpieorelaboratcstvlesof decoration, with all the details 
 l^aTrnf commencement of a design to its final completion, with elegant specimen 
 patterns printed in their appropriate colors- ij <- uicu 
 
 The thoroughly practical scope of this work will be seen by an examination of 
 
 f^^rnaT„'!?f*1' ^^''^ "V'"'"" "i ^^''- ^^'O* being complete, and written in a plain, 
 familiar style, easy of comprehension and guaranteeing success. 
 
 ,v„^.m^.o°"^-^l''^" "'f-^ " ^'"°1". ^ description is given of the best styles of kilns or 
 muffles, with directions for their use and management, by the aid of which the 
 Amateur can "Fire" his own work in any stove or range. 
 
 This work is printed in the best style on fine paper, with full-page colored illus- 
 trations, and an elegant cover, executed in the most artistic manner. A beautiful 
 small-quarto book. Illuminated flexible cover. $1.00. ^ oeauuim 
 
 *>?<^K'S KECITATIONS AND READINGS.-No. 1. Comprising a 
 carefully complied selection of Humorous, Pathetic, Eloquent, Patriotic and SeSti- 
 ^Im i K '^'w^ir' ^Vl!^''^ PX,"^^;. exclusively designed for Recitation or Readin- 
 Edited by William B. Dick. This is the first of a Series, uniform in size and stvl? 
 which will include everything that is fresh and popular, introducing also some of 
 the older gems ot the English language that are always in demand, but excluding 
 everything that is not eminently appropriate either for Declamation or Public Read- 
 Prfcee^S cS '' '''■ ^°^- '■ ' '''''' ^' «' '' '' ' Uniform with above. 
 
 • T"^ ;^^'*'f 9^ DRESSING WEI.I..-By Miss S. A. Frost. This book 
 18 designed for ladies and gentlemen who desire to make a favorable imnression 
 upon society. Paper covers, 30 cents. Bound in boards, cloth back, .W cents. 
 
 HOWARD'S BOOK OF I^OVE-POETR Y.-A curious and Beautiful 
 Collection of Tenderly Delicate, Sweetly Pathetic and Amusingly Quizzical Poetical 
 Love-Addresses, containing a large number of the most admired selections from the 
 leading poets, suitable for quotations in Love Letters, and applicable to all phases 
 and contingencies incident to the tender passion. 144 pages. Price, 25 centsT 
 
 JHOWARD'S BOOK OF DRAWING UOOIfl THEATRICALS. 
 
 —A collection of twelve short and amusing plays in one act and one scene speciallv 
 adapted for private performances; with practical directions for their preparation 
 ana inanagement. Some of the plays are adapte.l for performers of one sex only 
 This book IS just what is wanted by those who purpose getting up an entertainment 
 of private theatricals; it contains all the necessary instructions for insurine com- 
 plete success. 180 pages. Paper cover. Price, 30cts. 
 
 NORTH'S BOOK OF LOVE-LETTERS.-With direction how to 
 write and when to use them, and 120 Specimen Letters, suitable for Lovers of any 
 age and condition, and under all circumstances. Interspersed with the author's 
 comments thereon. The whole forming a convenient Handbook of valuable in- 
 formation and counsel for the use of those who need friendly guidance and confi- 
 dential advice in matters of Love, Courtship and Marriage. By lugoldsbv North 
 All who wish not only to copy a love-letter, but to learn the art of writing them' 
 will find North's book a very pleasant, sensible and friendly companion. It is an 
 additional recommendation that the variety offered is very Jarce Bound in board 
 Price, 50 cents. 
 
 Address, PATTEN PUBLISHINa COMPANY, 
 
 47 BARCLAY STREET, NEW YORK. 
 
Stamping Outfit 
 
 For KeHsington aud other Art Embroidery, 
 Outline Work, Braiding, &c. 
 
 Buy tMs Outfit and do your Own Stamping, and also Stamping for Others. 
 EACH OUTFIT CONTAINS TEN FULL SIZED 
 
 PERFORATED STAMPIWG PATTERITS. 
 
 The designs are, Border for Dresses and Skirts, of Rose Vine, 
 Border of Poppies, Bunch each of Roses. Lilies, Daisies, Fnchias, 
 Lilies of the Valley, for various kinds of Fancy Work, Outline 
 Design of Boy and Girl, Corner Design, etc., with 
 
 FULL INSTRUCTIONS FOR STAMPING AND WORKING, 
 
 Box Stamping Powder, Distributing Pad and Brush. 
 
 This Elegant Stamping Outfit by mail, postpaid, for CO Cents. 
 
 Extra Stamping Patterns. 
 
 Spray of Mountain Ash, 10 cents. Bunch Field Daisies, 10 
 cents. Bunch of Jessamine, 10 cents. Bunch of Poppy, Wheat and 
 Corn Flower, 15 cents. Violets, 15 cents. Bunch of Wild Roses 
 25 cents. Corner of Wild Roses, suitable for Table Cover or Mantel] 
 25 cents. Bunch Rose Buds, Jasmine and Forget-me-nots, 25 cents' 
 Kate Greenaway Design, suitable for Splasher or Tidy, 25 cents. 
 
 All the above extra Patterns for $1.00, or the Outfit and these 
 Patterns for $1.50 postpaid. 
 
 Box Blue Stamping Powder, 10 cents. Distril)uting Pad, 10 
 cents. Brush for Moist Stamping, 10 cents. 
 
 OUR BOOK OP 100 DESIGNS for Corners, Borders, 
 Centers, &c., for Kensington and other Art Needlework, 25 cents.' 
 This is not a book of Working Patterns, but shows some of our 
 Patterns in reduced size, and is a good book from which to select 
 from. Address 
 
 PATTEN PUBLISHING CO., 
 
 47 BAECLAY STREET, NEW YORK, 
 
DO YOU WANT TO MAKE MONEY. 
 
 We would like an Agent in every Town 
 
 STAMPING- WITH OXTR PATTERNS. 
 
 IT IS^ A. T*A^^^11SG^ BUSIIVESS, 
 
 There is no town of any size in the country in which 
 there would not be a demand for this work. All you have 
 to do is to let the people know that you can do stamping 
 and have a variety of Patterns and business will begin.' 
 The Patterns can be used a thousand times and not injured, 
 and as you get back the cost of the Pattern the first time 
 you use it, future orders are all profit. 
 
 We give on another page a partial list ot our Patterns 
 but can furnish many other designs not mentioned. Send 
 money in Registered letter or Postal order. Send postal 
 stamps 07ily for the fractional part of a dollar. Address 
 all orders to 
 
 PATTEN PUBLISHINa CO.. 
 
 47 BAEOLAY STREET, NEW YOEK. 
 
iyC_A-ISrTJ_A-L OIF 
 
 NEEDLEWORK, 
 
 EMBROIDERY, KNITTING, 
 CROCHETING, LACE MAKING, &c. 
 
 This is a book of over 100 Pages, giving plain 
 and intelligent directions for doing all kinds of 
 plain and fancy needlework, including the various 
 kinds of artistic Embroidery, Knitting, Xettiug, 
 Tatting, Crocheting, Lace Making, Darned Net 
 Work, &c. It is profusely illustrated with cuts 
 and diairrams showing how the various stitches 
 are made, and is so plain and practical that it 
 cannot fail to assist ladies in their ordinary sew- 
 ing, and will also enable them to do the most 
 Artistic Embroidery and to make many 
 articles for home and jiersonal adornment for 
 themselves and friends. 
 
 South Kensington, Arrasene and other 
 new kinds of Needlework are fully illus- 
 trated and explained, and directions giving for 
 making many Fancy articles, including Table and 
 Chair Scarfs, Piano Covers, Mantel and Window 
 Lambrequins, Draperies, &c. Directions are also given for Knitting 
 and Crocheting manj^ useful and fancy articles. The chapter on 
 Lace Making, will enable many ladies to make such desirable articles 
 in Honiton and Point Lace as Collars, Collarettes, Tie Ends, Jabots, 
 Edgings, Handkerchief Borders, Corners, &c., that will rival in 
 beauty the most expensive lace. Macrame lace is also illustrated and 
 explained as well as Darned net, Outlme work. Rug ]\Laking, &c. 
 We send this book postpaid for 35 cents ; four for $1.00. Uet 
 three of your friends to send with you and obtain Your Own 
 Book Free. 
 
 We will send this book and a One Dollar Outfit of STAMP- 
 ING PATTERNS for $1.25. 
 
 We want Agents in all parts of the country to sell the MANUAL 
 OF NEEDLEWORK and our Stamping Patterns. Address 
 
 PATTEN PUBLISHING CO., 
 
 47 BABCLAY STREET, NEW YORK. 
 
MmM Parctaeit Starti Pattos. 
 
 FOR 
 
 Kensington Embroidery, Outline iVork, Braiding, <&c. 
 
 NARROW SCALLOPS. 
 
 Patterns for Flannel Embroidery, Braiding, etc. Great variety 
 of designs ! Mention what kind you want. Strips 1 to 2 inches in 
 width. 10 cts. per strip. 2 to 4 inches in width, 15 cts. to 20 cts per 
 strip. Wide Scallops, 20 cts. to 30 cts. per strip. 
 
 ALPHABETS, 
 
 For Hat Bands, Napkins, Handkerchiefs, etc., etc. Alphabets 
 size 1 to 2 inches, 50 cts. to $1.00, per set, according to amount of 
 work there is in the Patterns. Alphabets, 2 to 4 inches, 75 cts. to 
 $1.25 per set. Alphabets, 4 to 6 inches, $1.00 to $2.50 per set. 
 Single Letters, 1 to G inches, 10 cts. each. Large Alphabets in Out- 
 line and Braiding Designs, for Pillow Shams, Blankets, etc., etc. 
 $2.00 to $4.00 per set. Single Letters, 20 cts. each. 
 
 NARROW KENSINGTON STRIPS. 
 
 All kinds of Designs of Flowers, Ferns, etc. , etc. Mention what 
 kind you want and what width. 1 to 2 inches wide, 10 cts. to 15 
 cts. per strip. 2 to 4 inches wide, 15 cts. to 20 cts. per strip. 4 to 8 
 inches wide, 30 cts. to 50 cts. per strip. 
 
 SMALL BOUQUETS. 
 
 For D'oylies, Pin Cushions, Perfume Bags, Handkerchiefs and 
 one hundred other things. Designs, 1 to 3 inches square, 10 cts. each. 
 Designs, 3 to 6 inches square, 15 cts. to 20 cts. each. 
 
 LARGE BOUQUETS. 
 
 For Tidies, Table Covers, Corners, Lambrequins, etc., etc. 
 Designs, 6 to 10 inches square, 20 cts. to 50 cts. each. 
 
 LARGE DESIGNS. 
 
 For Table Covers, Corners, etc. Designs, 12 to 24 inches, 50 cts. 
 to $1.00 each, according to fineness of the pattern. 
 
 A NEW CORNER DESIGN. 
 
 Rose Vine and other flowers. 
 
UPRIGHT DESIGNS. 
 
 Eastlake Patterns, etc. A large variety ot very choice designs. 
 25 cts. to $1.00 per strip, according to quality. 
 
 OUTLINE EMBROIDERY PATTERNS. 
 
 Small Kate Greenaway Designs, for D'oylies, Handkerchiefs, 
 etc., etc. A fine assortment I 10 cts. to 15 cts. encli. Large Kate 
 Greenaway Designs, for Tidies, Chair Backs, etc., 20 cts. to 50 cents 
 each. Large variety of beautiful designs I 
 
 DESIGNS FOR INFANTS' BLANKETS. 
 
 Pillow ShaiHs, etc.. Cherubs, Mottoes, Birds, Flowers, etc. etc., 
 75 cts. to $1.00 each, 
 
 CENTERS AND CORNERS. 
 
 For Carriage Blankets, 50 cts. to $1.00 each. 
 
 TEA TRAY SETS. 
 
 Two Sets, 75 cts. and $1.00 per set. 
 
 SINGLE FIGURES. 
 
 For Trays, Table Cloths, Side Boards, Napkins, etc. , 25 cts. to 
 50 cts. each. 
 
 SPLASHER OUTLINE DESIGNS. 
 
 Size about 16 x 28 inches. Great variety of new designs ! 65 
 cts. to $1.35 each. We mention a few : — Morning Dip, 75 cts. Go 
 thou and do likewise, 75 cts. Splash I Splash ! 75 cts. Caught in 
 the Shower, $1.00. Wading Storks, 75 cts. Birds, etc., 75 cts. 
 Pond Lilies, Swallow, etc. , 75 cts. Boating in Tubs, 75 cts. " Mary. 
 Mary, quite contrary," etc., $1.00. -Esthetic Boy and Girl, $1.00. 
 Many other Designs. 
 
 EMBROIDERY SILK. 
 
 We will send you Embroidery Silk, any color, for 2 cts. a 
 skein. Shaded Embroidery Silk comes in larger skeins, price, 3 
 cts. per skein. Please not send an order for less than 10 skeins, as it 
 is Inconvenient to send smaller quantities. 
 
 Blue Dry Stamping Powder, 10 cts. per box. Distributing 
 Pads, 10 cts. Brush for Moist Stamping, 10 cts. Address 
 
 PATTEN PUBLISHING CO., 
 
 47 Barclay Street, New York. 
 

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