HBH 
 
 m^H 
 
 L 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 il 
 
 
 
 
Qass^SB^S- 
 
GARDEN -MAKING 
 
't^'^y^^ 
 
GARDEN -MAKING 
 
 Suggestions for the 
 Utilizing of Home Grounds 
 
 'J' BY;/ 
 
 L. H. BAILEY 
 
 Aided by L. R. Taft, Professor of Horticulture in the Agricultural 
 
 College of Michigan; F. A. Waugh, Professor of Horticulture 
 
 in the University of Vermont; and Ernest Walker, 
 
 Assistant in Horticulture and Entomology in 
 
 Clemson College, South Carolina 
 
 !Nttog^ 
 
 THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
 
 LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., Ltd 
 1898 
 
 All rights reserved 
 
 TWO 66i»^E» fte«fclVEO 
 
 X>^ 
 
2444 
 
 Copyright, 1898, 
 By L. H. bailey 
 
 ^ 
 
 t>' 
 
 J. Horace McFarland Company 
 Harribburg, Pa. 
 
OUTLINE 
 
 SECTION I , 
 
 General Advice 1-119 
 
 The mental ideal, 1-7. Preparation of the land, 7-37 
 (the saving of moisture, 7; preparing the under- 
 soil, 12; preparation of the surface, 18; tools for 
 weeding and subsequent tillage, 24). Sowing and 
 planting, 37-58 (sowing the seed, 37; transplanting 
 young seedlings, 38; transplanting established 
 plants and seeds, 44). Winter protection of plants, 
 58-67. The forcing of plants, 67-88 (coldframes, 
 71; hotbeds, 75). Insects and diseases, 88-103. 
 Protecting plants from animals, 10.3-108. Keeping 
 records of the plantation, 109-114. Enriching the 
 land 114-119. 
 
 SECTION II 
 The Plan of the Place 120-210 
 
 The picture in the landscape, 121-158 (containing a 
 free sketch of what a picture is and how it may be 
 obtained, contrasts of massed and scattered plant- 
 ings, discussions of flower-beds, borders, types of 
 bushes for lawn effects, weeping and odd trees, the 
 use of poplars and willows, and the fundamentals 
 of landscape gardening). Various specific ex- 
 amples, 158-176 (containing plans of yards and 
 lawns). How to make the improvements, 177-210 
 (discusses grading, terraces, banks, sunken fences, 
 filling about trees, walks and drives, curbs, sub- 
 urban streets, edges of walks and drives, materials 
 for walks and drives, etc.; making the plan, 195; 
 making a lawn, 199). 
 
 (v) 
 
VI OUTLINE 
 
 SECTION III 
 
 PAGES 
 
 Planting the Ornamental Grounds 211-301 
 
 Choosing the plants, 211-220. List of ornamental 
 plants which are hardy in Central Michigan, 220- 
 240. Plants for floral effects (by Ernest "Walker), 
 241-301, containing: (1) Remarks on flower-beds, 
 241; (2) Carpet-bedding, 243; (3) Edgings and 
 mass-beds, 251; (4) Annuals, 255; (5) Bulbous and 
 tuberous plants, 267; (6) Hardy herbaceous per- 
 ennials, 278; (7) Hardy climbing plants, 291; 
 (8) The rose, 294. 
 
 SECTION IV 
 The Fruit Plantation 302-347 
 
 The arrangement of the fruit-garden, 302-305. Ad- 
 vice upon the growing of fruit (by Professor 
 Taft), 305-347, containing: (1) Northern orchard 
 fruits (the apple, 308, the pear, 313, the plum, 317, 
 the peach, 319, apricots and nectarines, 323, the 
 cherry, 323); (2) Sub-tropical fruits (the orange, 
 325, the olive, 329, the pineapple, 330, banana, 
 330, flg, 331); (3) The grape, 332; (4) Small-fruits 
 (red and black raspberries 336; blackberries and 
 dewberries, 339; currants, 340; gooseberries, 342; 
 strawberries, 343). 
 
 SECTION V 
 
 The Vegetable Garden 348-385 
 
 Plans for the kitchen-garden, 348-352, The vegetable 
 garden (by Professor Waugh), 353-385, containing: 
 (1) Root crops and tubers (beet, carrot, parsnip, 
 potato, etc.), 353; (2) Alliaceous group (onions, 
 etc.), 360; (3) Leguminous group (cabbage, kale, 
 cauliflower, etc.), 364; (4) Solanaceous group (to- 
 matoes, eggplant, etc.), 369; (5) Cucurbitaceous 
 
OUTLINE Vll 
 
 group (cucumber, melon, squash, etc.)? 373; (6) 
 Salad plants and pot-herbs (lettuce, cress, endive, 
 dandelion, spinach, mustai'd, chard, etc.), 376; (7) 
 Miscellaneous vegetables (celery, asparagus, sweet 
 corn, artichoke), 380; (8) Sweet herbs, 385. 
 
 * SECTION VI 
 Seasonal Reminders 386-411 
 
 General remarks, 386-389. Calendars for the North 
 (by T. Greiner), 389-401. Calendars for the South 
 (by H. W. Smith and F. H. Burnette), 402-411 
 
 INDEX 413-417 
 
 I 
 
GARDEN -MAKING 
 
 Section I 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 Every family can have a garden. If there is 
 not a foot of land, there are porches or windows. 
 Wherever there is sunlight, plants may be made 
 to grow ; and one plant in a tin can may be a 
 more helpful and inspiring garden to some mind 
 than a whole acre of lawn and flowers may be to 
 another. The satisfaction of a garden does not 
 depend upon the area, nor, happily, upon the 
 cost or rarity of the plants. It depends upon the 
 temper of the person. One must first seek to 
 love plants and nature, and then to cultivate that 
 happy peace of mind which is satisfied with little. 
 He will be happier if he has no rigid and arbi- 
 trary ideals, for gardens are coquettish, particu- 
 larly with the novice. If plants grow and thrive, 
 he should be happy; and if the plants which 
 thrive chance not to be the ones which he planted, 
 they are plants nevertheless, and nature is satis- 
 fied with them. We are apt to covet the things 
 
2 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 which we cannot have ; but we are happier when 
 we love the things which grow because they must. 
 A patch of lusty pigweeds, growing and crowding 
 in luxuriant abandon, may be a better and more 
 worthy object of affection than a bed of coleuses 
 in which every spark of life and spirit and indi- 
 viduality has been sheared out and suppressed. 
 The man who worries morning and night about 
 the dandelions in the lawn will find great relief 
 in loving the dandelions. Each blossom is worth 
 more than a gold coin, as it shimmers in the 
 exuberant sunlight of the growing spring, and 
 attracts the bees to its bosom. Little children 
 love the dandelions : why may not we ? Love 
 the things nearest at hand ; and love intensel3^ 
 If I were to write a motto over the gate of a gar- 
 den, I should choose the remark which Socrates 
 made as he saw the luxuries in the market, 
 "How much there is in the world that I do not 
 want ! " 
 
 I verily believe that this paragraph which I 
 have just written is worth more than all the 
 advice with which I intend to cram the succeeding 
 pages, notwithstanding the fact that I have most 
 assiduously extracted this advice from various 
 worthy but, happily, long-forgotten authors. 
 Happiness is a quality of a person, not of a 
 plant or a garden ; and the anticipation of joy 
 in the writing of a book may be the reason why 
 so many books on garden-making have been writ- 
 
GARDENING BOOKS 3 
 
 ten. Of course, all these books have been good 
 and useful. It would be ungrateful, at the least, 
 for the present writer to say otherwise ; but 
 books grow old, and the advice becomes too fa- 
 miliar. The sentences need to be transposed and 
 the order of the chapters varied, now and then, 
 or interest lags. Or, to speak plainly, a new 
 book of advice upon handicraft is needed in every 
 decade. There has been a long and worthy pro- 
 cession of these handbooks, — Gardiner & Hepburn, 
 M'Mahon, Cobbett — original, pungent, ubiquitous 
 Cobbett ! — Fessenden, Bridgeman, Sayers, Buist, 
 and a dozen more, each one a little richer because 
 the others had been written. But even the fact 
 that these books pass into oblivion does not 
 deter another hand from making still another 
 venture ! 
 
 I expect, then, that every person who reads 
 this book will make a garden, or will try to 
 make one ; but if only tares grow where roses 
 are desired, I must remind the reader that at the 
 outset I advised pigweeds. The book, therefore, 
 will suit everybody, — the experienced gardener, 
 because it will be an echo of what he already 
 knows ; and the novice, because it will apply as 
 well to a garden of burdocks as of onions. 
 
 A garden is the personal part of an estate, that 
 area which is most intimately associated with the 
 private life of the home. Originally, the garden 
 was the area inside the enclosure or lines of forti- 
 
4 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 fication, in distinction to the unprotected area or 
 fields which lay beyond ; and this latter area was 
 the particular domain of agriculture. This book 
 understands the garden to be that part of the 
 premises which is devoted to ornament, and to 
 the growing of vegetables and fruits either for 
 the home consumption or for market. The gar- 
 den is, therefore, an ill- defined demesne ; but the 
 reader must not make the mistake of defining it 
 by dimensions, for one may have a garden in a 
 flower-pot or on a thousand acres. In other 
 words, this book believes that every bit of land 
 which is not used for buildings, walks, drives 
 and fences, should be planted. What we shall 
 plant, — whether sward, lilacs, thistles, cabbages, 
 pears, chrysanthemums or tomatoes, — we shall 
 talk about as we proceed. 
 
 The only way to keep land perfectly unpro- 
 ductive is to keep it moving. The moment the 
 owner lets it alone, the planting has begun. In 
 my own garden, this first planting is of pigweeds. 
 These are usually followed, the next year, by 
 ragweeds, then by docks and thistles, with here 
 and there a start of clover and grass ; and it all 
 ends in June-grass and dandelions. Nature does 
 not allow the land to remain bare and idle. 
 Even the bank where plaster and lath were 
 dumped two years ago is now luxuriant with 
 burdocks and sweet clover ; and yet people who 
 pass that dump every day say that they can 
 
THE USEFUL BURDOCK 5 
 
 grow notliiug in their own yard because the 
 soil is so poor ! Yet, I venture that those same 
 persons furnish most of the pigweed seed which 
 I use on my garden. 
 
 The lesson is that there is no soil, — where a 
 house would be built, — so poor that something 
 cannot be grown. If burdocks will grow, some- 
 thing else will grow ; or if nothing else will 
 
 1. The ornamental burdock. 
 
 ■^. 
 
 grow, then' I prefer burdocks to sand and rub- 
 bish. The burdock is one of the most striking 
 and decorative of plants, and a good piece of it 
 against a building or on a rough bank is just as 
 useful as some plant which costs money and is 
 difficult to grow. I had a good clump of it under 
 my study window, and it was a great comfort, but 
 the man would persist in cutting it down when 
 
6 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 he mowed the lawn. When I remonstrated, he 
 declared that it was nothing but burdock ; but I 
 insisted that, so far from being burdock, it was 
 really Lappa major, since which time the plant 
 has enjoyed his utmost respect. And I find that 
 most of my friends reserve their appreciation of 
 a plant until they have learned its name and 
 connections. 
 
 The dump-heap which I mentioned has a surface 
 area of nearly one-hundred and fifty square feet, 
 and I find that it has grown over two hundred 
 good plants of one kind or another this year. 
 This is more than my gardener accomplished on 
 an equal area, with manure and water and a man 
 to help. The difference was that the plants on 
 the dump wanted to grow, and the imported 
 plants in the garden did not want to grow. It 
 was the difference between a willing horse and a 
 balkj^ one. If a person wants to show his skill, 
 he may choose the balky plant: but if he wants 
 fun and comfort in gardening, he had better 
 choose the willing one. 
 
 I have never been able to find out wh'en the bur- 
 docks and mustard were planted on the dump; 
 and I am sure that they were never hoed or wa- 
 tered. Nature practices a wonderfully rigid econ- 
 omy. For nearly half the summer she even 
 refused rain to the plants, but still they thrived; 
 yet I staid home from a vacation one summer 
 that I might keep my plants from dying. I have 
 
CONSERVING MOISTURE 7 
 
 since learned that if the plants in my borders can- 
 not take care of themselves for a few weeks, they 
 are little comfort to me. 
 
 PBEPABATION OF TEE LAND 
 
 Having now discussed the most essential ele- 
 ments of gardening, we may give our attention 
 to such minor features as the preparation of the 
 land, fertilizing, and the details of planting. 
 Almost any land contains enough food for the 
 growing of good crops, but the food elements may 
 be chemically unavailable, or there may be insuffi- 
 cient water to dissolve them. It is too long a 
 story to explain the philosophy of tillage at this 
 place, and the reader who desires to make excur- 
 sions into this delightful subject should consult 
 King on "The Soil" and Roberts on "The Fer- 
 tility of the Land." The reader must accept the 
 bare statement that tilling the land makes it pro- 
 ductive. 
 
 The saving of moisture. — Proper preparation 
 and tillage also put the land in such condition that 
 it holds the water of rainfall. Land which is very 
 hard and compact may shed the rainfall, particu- 
 larly if it is sloping and if the surface is bare of 
 vegetation. If the hard-pan is near the surface, 
 the land cannot hold much water, and any ordi- 
 nary rainfall may fill it so full that it overflows, 
 or puddles stand on the surface. Upon land which 
 is in good tilth, the water of rainfall sinks away, 
 
8 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 and is not visible as free water. As soon as the 
 moisture begins to depart from the superincumbent 
 atmosphere, evaporation begins from the surface 
 of the land. Any body which is interposed be- 
 tween the land and the air checks this evaporation : 
 this is why there is moisture underneath a board. 
 It is impracticable, however, to floor over the gar- 
 den with boards, but any covering will have the 
 same effect, but in different degree. A covering 
 of sawdust or leaves or dry ashes_will prevent the 
 loss of moisture. So will a covering of dry earth. 
 Now, inasmuch as the land is already covered with 
 earth, it" only remains to loosen up a layer or 
 stratum on top in order to secure our mulch. 
 
 All this is only a roundabout way of saying that 
 frequent shallow surface tillage conserves moisture. 
 The comparatively dry and loose mulch breaks up 
 the capillary connection between the surface soil 
 and the under soil, and while the mulch itself 
 may be useless as a foraging ground for roots, 
 it more than pays its keep by its preventing of 
 the loss of moisture ; and its own soluble plant- 
 foods are washed down into the low^er soil by the 
 rains. As often as the surface becomes compact, 
 the mulch should be renewed or repaired by the 
 use of the rake or cultivator or harrow. People 
 are deceived by supposing that so long as the 
 surface remains moist, the land is in the best 
 possible condition; but a moist surface only 
 means that water is rapidly passing off into the 
 
SOIL -MULCH 
 
 atmosphere. A dry surface means that little 
 evaporation is taking place. A finely raked bed 
 is dry on top ; but the footprints of the eat re- 
 main moist for days, for the animal packed the 
 
 2. Ideal preparation of land. 
 
 soil wherever it stepped and a capillary con- 
 nection was established with the water reservoir 
 beneath. Gardeners advise firming the earth 
 over newly planted seeds to hasten germination. 
 This is essential in dry times; but what we gain 
 
10 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 in hastening germination we lose in the more 
 rapid evaporation of moisture. The lesson is that 
 we should loosen the soil as soon as the seeds have 
 germinated, to reduce the evaporation to the mini- 
 mum. Large seeds, as beans and peas, can be 
 planted deep and have the earth firmed about 
 them, and then the rake may be applied to the 
 surface to stop the rise of moisture before it 
 reaches the air. 
 
 The illustrations, adapted from Roberts' "Fer- 
 tility," show good and poor preparation of the 
 land. Fig. 2 is a section of land twelve inches 
 deep. The under soil has been finely broken and 
 pulverized and then compacted. It is mellow but 
 firm, and is an excellent water reservoir. Three 
 inches of the surface is a mulch of loose and dry 
 earth. Fig. 3 shows an earth -mulch, but it is too 
 shallow; and the under soil is so open and cloddy 
 that the water runs through it. 
 
 This subject of the conservation of moisture is 
 so important that I wish to present it in various 
 ways. The following extract, although written 
 for children ("A Children's Garden"), may still 
 further explain the matter: "I wonder if you 
 have a watering-pot? If j^-ou have, put it where 
 you cannot find it, for we are going to water this 
 garden with a rake! We want you to learn, in 
 this little garden, the first great lesson in farming, 
 — how to save the water in the soil. If you learn 
 that much this summer, you will know more than 
 
THE SOIL -MULCH 
 
 11 
 
 many old farmers do. You know that the soil is 
 moist in the spring when you plant the seeds. 
 Where does this moisture go? It dries up, — goes 
 off into the air. If we could cover the soil 
 
 .'aT'^s 
 
 3, Slovenly preparation of land. 
 
 with something, we should prevent the moisture 
 from drying up. Let us cover it with a layer of 
 loose, dry earth! We will make this covering by 
 raking the bed every few days, — once every week 
 anyway, and oftener than that if the top of the 
 
12 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 soil becomes hard and crusty, as it does after a 
 rain. Instead of pouring water on the bed, there- 
 fore, we will keep the moisture in the bed. If, 
 however, the soil becomes so dry in spite of you 
 that the plants do not thrive, then water the bed. 
 Do not sprinJde it, but tvater it. Wet it clear 
 through at evening. Then in the morning, when 
 the surface begins to dry, begin the raking 
 again to keep the water from getting away. 
 Sprinkling the plants every day or two is one of 
 the surest ways of spoiling them." 
 
 Preparing the under -soil.— The first step in 
 the preparation of land, after it has been thor- 
 oughly cleared and subdued of forest or previous 
 vegetation, is to attend to the drainage. All land 
 which is springy, low and "sour," or which holds 
 the water in puddles for a day or two following 
 heavy rains, should be thoroughly underdrained. 
 Draining also improves the physical condition of 
 the soil, even when the land does not need ditch- 
 ing for the removal of superfluous water. In hard 
 lands, it lowers the water-table, or tends to loosen 
 and aerate the soil to a greater depth, and thereby 
 enables it to hold more water without injury to 
 plants. Drainage is particularly useful in dry but 
 hard garden lands, because these lands are often 
 in sod or permanently planted, and the soil can- 
 not be broken up by deep tillage. Tile drain- 
 age is permanent subsoiling. 
 
 In most regions, well baked cylindrical tiles 
 
DITCHING 
 
 13 
 
 make the best and most permanent drains. The 
 ditches should not be less than two and one-half 
 feet deep, and three or three and one -half feet is 
 a better depth. In most garden areas, drains may 
 be laid with profit as 
 often as every thirty feet. 
 Give all drains a good and 
 continuous fall. For 
 
 single drains, and for 
 laterals not over four 
 hundred or five hundred 
 feet long, a two and one- 
 half inch tile is sufficient, 
 unless much water must 
 be carried from swales or 
 springs. In stony coun- 
 tries, flat stones may be 
 used in place of tiles, and 
 persons who are skillful 
 in laying them make 
 drains as good and per- 
 manent as those con- 
 structed of tiles. The 
 tiles or stones are , covered with sods, straw or 
 paper, and the earth is then filled in. This 
 temporary cover keeps the loose dirt out of the 
 tiles, and by the time it is rotted the earth 
 has settled into place. 
 
 In small places, ditching must ordinarily be 
 done wholly with hand tools. A common spade 
 
 4. ■ Ditching tools. 
 
14 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 and pick are the implements usually employed, 
 although a spade with a long handle and narrow 
 blade, as shown in Fig. 4, is very useful for exca- 
 vating the bottom of the ditch. In most cases, 
 much time and muscle are wasted in the use of 
 the pick. If the digging is properly done, a spade 
 can be used to cut the soil, even in fairly hard 
 clay land, with no great difficulty. The essential 
 
 How to handle the spade. 
 
 point in the easy use of the spade is to so manage 
 that one edge of the spade always cuts a free or 
 exposed surface. The illustration (Fig. 5) will 
 explain the method. When the operator endeavors 
 to cut the soil in the method shown at a, he is 
 obliged to break both surfaces at every thrust of 
 the tool; but when he cuts the slice diagonally, 
 first throwing his spade to the right and then to 
 the left, as shown at b, he cuts only one surface, 
 and is able to make progress without the expendi- 
 
DRAINING 
 
 15 
 
 ture of useless effort. These remarks will apply, 
 with almost equal force, to any spading of the 
 land. 
 
 In large areas, horses may be used to facilitate 
 the work of ditching. There are ditching plows, 
 which, however, need not be discussed here ; but 
 three or four furrows can be thrown out in either 
 direction with an ordinarily strong plow, and a 
 sub -soil plow can be run behind to break up the 
 hard-pan, and this may reduce the labor of dig- 
 ging as much as one -half. When the excavating 
 
 6. Trenching with a spade. 
 
 is completed, the bottom of the ditch is evened up 
 by means of a line or level, and the bed for the 
 tiles is prepared by the use of a goose-neck scoop, 
 shown in Fig. 4. It is very important that the 
 outlets of drains be kept free of weeds and 
 litter. If the outlet is built up with mason work, 
 so as to hold the end of the tile intact, very much 
 will be added to the permanency of the drain. 
 
 Although under -draining is the most important 
 means of increasing the d^pth of the soil, it is 
 not always practicable to lay drains through gar- 
 den lands, either because the lands are already 
 
16 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 planted or built upon, or because suitable outlets 
 can not be found. In such cases, recourse is had 
 to verj^ deep preparation of the land, either every 
 j^ear or every two or three years. In small gar- 
 den areas, this deep preparation will ordinarily 
 be done by trenching with a spade. This opera- 
 tion of trenching consists in breaking up the earth 
 two spades deep. Fig. 6 explains the operation. 
 The section at the left shows a single spading, the 
 
 7. Home-made subsoil plow. 
 
 earth being thrown over to the right, leaving the 
 subsoil exposed the whole width of the bed. The 
 section at the 'right shows a similar operation, so 
 far as the surface spading is concerned, but the 
 subsoil has also been cut as fast as it has been 
 exposed. This under soil is not thrown out upon 
 the surface, and usually it is not inverted; but a 
 spadeful is lifted and then allowed to drop so that 
 it is thoroughly broken and pulverized in the 
 manipulation. In all lands which have a hard 
 
SUBSOIL PLOWING 
 
 17 
 
 and high subsoil, it is ahnost essential to practice 
 trenching if the best results are to be obtained; 
 and this is especially true when deep-rooted plants, 
 like beets, parsnips and other root- crops, are desired. 
 In places which can be entered with the plow, 
 deep and heavy plowing to the depth of seven to 
 ten inches may be desirable upon hard lands, 
 especially if such lands cannot be plowed very 
 
 8. Types of subsoil plows. 
 
 often; and the depth of the pulverization is often 
 extended by means of the subsoil plow. This 
 subsoil plow does not turn a furrow, but a 
 second team draws the implement behind the 
 ordinary plow, and the bottom of the furrow is 
 loosened and broken. Fig. 7 shows a home-made 
 subsoil plow, and Fig. 8 two types of commer- 
 cial tools. It must be remembered that it is the 
 hardest lands which need subsoiling, and that, 
 therefore, the subsoil plow should be exceedingly 
 
18 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 strong. Fig. 9 shows various types of model 
 surface plows. The one shown at the upper left- 
 hand is considered by Roberts, in his "Fertility 
 of the Land," to be the ideal general - purpose 
 plow, as respects shape and method of con- 
 struction . 
 
 Preparation of the surface. — Every pains 
 should be taken to prevent the surface of the land 
 from becoming crusty or baked, for we have al- 
 
 9. Types of model plows. 
 
 ready found that the hard surface establishes a 
 capillary connection with the moist soil beneath, 
 and is a means of passing off the water into the 
 atmosphere. Loose and mellow soil also has 
 more free plant -food, and provides the most con- 
 genial conditions for the growth of plants. If the 
 soil is a stiff clay, it is often advisable to plow 
 it or dig it in the fall, allowing it to lie rough 
 and loose all winter, so that the weathering 
 may pulverize and slake it. If the clay is very 
 
SPADING AND FORKING 
 
 19 
 
 tenacious, it may be necessary to throw l^af- 
 mold or litter over the surface before the spading 
 is done, to prevent the soil from running together 
 or cementing before spring. With mellow and 
 loamy lands, however, it is ordinarily best to leave 
 the preparation of the surface until spring. 
 
 In the preparation of the surface, the ordinary 
 hand tools, or spades and shovels, may be used. 
 If, however, the soil is mellow, a fork is a better 
 tool than a spade, from the fact 
 that it does not slice the soil, 
 but tends to break it up into 
 smaller and more irregular masses. 
 The ordinary spading -fork, with 
 strong, flat tines, is a most ser- 
 viceable tool ; but a good spad- 
 ing -fork may be made from an 
 old manure fork by cutting down 
 the tines, as shown in Fig. 10. 
 It is essential that the soil should 
 not be sticky when it is prepared, 
 as it is likely to become hard 
 and baked and the physical con- 
 dition greatly injured. However, 
 land which is too wet for the 
 reception of seeds may still be 
 thrown up loose with a spade or 
 fork and allowed to dry, and after two or three 
 days the surface preparation may be completed 
 with the use of the hoe and the rake. In ordi- 
 
 ' i / / 
 
 10. 
 Improvised fork. 
 
20 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 nary soils, the hoe is the tool to follow the 
 spading -fork or the spade, but for the final prep- 
 aration of the surface a steel garden-rake is the 
 ideal tool. 
 
 In areas which are large enough to admit horse 
 tools, the land can be fitted more economically by 
 means of the various types of harrows and cul- 
 tivators which are to be had of any dealer in 
 agricultural implements. The type of machine 
 which is to be used must be determined wholly 
 
 11. Disc and Acme harrows, for the first working of hard 
 or cloddy land, 
 
 by the character of the land and the purposes for 
 which it is to be fitted. Land which is hard and 
 cloddy may be reduced by the use of the disc or 
 Acme harrows, shown in Fig. 11, but lands which 
 are friable and mellow may not need such heavy 
 
HARROWS 21 
 
 and vigorous tools. Upon these mellower lands, 
 the spriiig-tooth harrow, types of which are shown 
 in Fig. 12, may follow the plow. Upon very hard 
 lands, these spring -tooth harrows may follow the 
 
 12. Spring-tooth harrows, for working hard or medium- 
 hard lands, and to follow the disc or Acme. 
 
 disc and Acme types. The final preparation of 
 the land is accomplished by light implements of 
 the pattern shown in Fig. 13. These spike -tooth 
 smoothing -harrows do for the field what the hand- 
 rake does for the garden-bed. If it is desired to 
 put a very fine finish upon the surface of the 
 ground by means of horse tools, implements like 
 
22 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 the Breed or Wiard weeder may be used. These 
 are constructed upon the principle of a spring- 
 tooth horse hay -rake, and are most excellent, not 
 only for fitting" loose land for ordinary seeding, 
 but also for subsequent tillage. 
 
 In areas which cannot be entered with a team, 
 various one-horse implements may be used to do 
 the work which is done by heavier tools in the 
 field. The spring -tooth cultivator, shown at the 
 right in Fig. 14, may do the kind of work which 
 
 13. Spike-tooth harrow, for the final fitting of the land. 
 
 the spring -tooth harrows are expected to do upon 
 larger areas; and various adjustable spike-tooth 
 cultivators, two of which are shown in Fig. 14, 
 are useful for putting a finish upon the land. 
 These tools are also available for the tilling of 
 the land when the crops are growing. The 
 spring -tooth cultivator is a most useful tool for 
 cviltivating raspberries and strawberries, and other 
 large -area crops. 
 
 For still smaller areas, in which horses cannot 
 be used and which are still too large for tilling 
 wholly by means of hoes and rakes, various types 
 of wheel -hoes may be used. These implements 
 
WHEEL -HO'ES 23 
 
 are now made in great variety of patterns, to suit 
 any taste and almost any kind of tillage. For 
 the best results, it is essential that the wheel 
 should be large and with a broad tire, that 
 it may override obstacles. Fig. 15 shows an 
 excellent type of wheel -hoe with five blades, 
 
 14. Spike-tooth and spring-tooth cultivators, to be used 
 where harrows cannot be employed. 
 
 and Fig. 16 shows one with a single blade and 
 which may be used in very narrow rows. Two- 
 wheeled hoes are often used, particularly when it 
 is necessary to have the implement very steady, 
 and they may be used to straddle the rows of 
 low plants. Many of these wheel -hoes are pro- 
 vided wifclf various types of blades, so that the 
 implement may be adjusted to many kinds of 
 
24 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 work. Nearly all the weeding of beds of onions 
 and like plants can be done by means of these 
 wheel -hoes, if the gronnd is well prepared in the 
 beginning; but it must be remembered that they 
 are of comparatively small use in very hard and 
 cloddy and stony lands. 
 
 Tools for weeding and subsequent til- 
 lage. — Any of the cultivators and wheel -hoes are 
 as useful for the <5^ subsequent tilling of the 
 
 crop as for the 
 land, but there 
 
 initial preparation of the 
 are other tools also, which 
 
 15. Good type of 
 wheel-hoe. 
 
 16. A single-blade 
 wheel-hoe. 
 
 17. Double wheel- 
 hoe, useful in 
 straddling the row. 
 
 greatly facilitate the keeping of the plantation 
 in order. The common rectangular-bladed hoe 
 is so thoroughly established in the popular mind 
 that it is very difficult to introduce new patterns, 
 even though they may be intrinsicallj^ superior. 
 As a general-purpose tool, it is no doubt true 
 that a common hoe is better than any of its 
 
THE KI DES 25 
 
 modifications, but there are various patterns of 
 hoe -blades which are greatly superior for special 
 uses. The great width of the common blade does 
 not allow of its being used in very narrow rows 
 or very close to delicate plants, and it does not 
 allow of the deep stirring of the soil in narrow 
 spaces. It is also difficult to enter hard ground 
 with such a broad face. Various pointed blades 
 have been introduced from time to time, and al- 
 
 ls. Double-pointed hoes. 
 
 most any of them have distinct merit. Some per- 
 sons prefer two points to the hoe, as shown in 
 Marvin's blades, in Fig. 18. Persons who fol- 
 lowed the entertaining writings of Mr. A. B. Tar- 
 ryer (a pseudonym for a well-known experimenter) 
 in "American Garden," a few years back, will 
 recall the great variety of implements which he 
 advised for the purpose of extirpating his hered- 
 itary foes, the weeds. A variety of these blades 
 and tools is shown in Figs. 19 and 20. Mr. Tar- 
 ryer contends that the wheel-hoe is much too clumsy 
 an affair to allow of the pursuit of an Individ- 
 
26 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 ual weed. While the operator is busy adjusting 
 his machine and manipulating it about the cor- 
 ners of the garden, the quack- grass has escaped 
 
 19. Some of the Tarryer hoes. 
 
 over the fence or has gone to seed at the other 
 end of the plantation. Upon this point Mr. Tar- 
 ryer pronounces as follows: 
 
 "Scores of times during the season, the ten or 
 
>_«? 
 
 20. A stack of gardening weapons, comprising some of 
 Tarryer's weeding spuds and thimbles. 
 
28 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 fifteen minutes one has to enjoy in the flower, 
 fruit and vegetable garden — and that would suffice 
 for the needful weeding with the hoes we are 
 celebrating — would be lost in harnessing horses 
 or adjusting and oiling squeaky wheel -hoes, even 
 if everybody had them. The 'Garden' is not big 
 enough, nor my patience long enough, to give 
 more than an inkling of the unspeakable merits 
 of these weapons of society and civilization. 
 When Mrs. Tarryer was showing twelve oi' fif- 
 teen acres of garden with never a weed to be 
 seen, she valued her dozen or more of these light 
 implements at five or ten dollars daily; whether 
 they were in actual use or adorning the front 
 hall, like a hunter's or angler's furniture, made 
 no diiference. But where are these millennial 
 tools made and sold? Nowhere. They are as 
 unknown as the Bible was in the dark ages, 
 and we must give a few hints towards manu- 
 facturing them. 
 
 "First, about the handles. The ordinary dealer 
 or workman may say these knobs can be formed 
 on any handles by winding them with leather; 
 but just fancy a young maiden setting up her hoe 
 meditatively and resting her hands and chin upon 
 an old leather knob to reflect upon something that 
 has been said to her in the garden, and we shall 
 perceive that a knob by some other name would 
 smell far sweeter. Moreover, trees grow large 
 enough at the butt to furnish all the knobs we 
 
HOE HANDLES. 
 
 29 
 
 21. A scarifier. 
 
 want — even for broom-sticks— though sawyers, 
 
 turners, dealers and the public seem not to be 
 
 aware of it; yet it must be 
 
 confessed we are so far 
 
 gone in depravity that there 
 
 will be trouble in getting 
 
 those handles. * * * * 
 
 "In a broadcast prayer of 
 this public nature, absolute 
 specifications would not be 
 polite. Black walnut and 
 butternut are fragrant as well 
 as beautiful timber. Cherry 
 is stiff, heavy, durable, and, 
 like maple, takes a slippery 
 
 polish. For fine, light handles, 
 
 palm will stick to, butt 
 
 poplar or cottonwood 
 
 cannot be excelled, yet 
 
 straight -grained ash will 
 
 bear more careless usage. 
 
 "The handles of 
 
 Mrs. Tarry er's hoes 
 
 Home-made 
 scarifier. 
 
 are never perfectly straight. All the bayonet 
 class bend downward in use half an inch or 
 
 that 
 
 cuts 
 
 the 
 of 
 
30 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 more ; all the thrust -hoe handles bend up in 
 a regular curve (like a fiddle-bow turned over) 
 two or three inches. Unless 
 they are hung right, these 
 hoes are very awkward things. 
 When perfectly fit for one, 
 they may not fit another — 
 that is, a tall, keen -sighted 
 person cannot use the 
 hoe that is just fit for 
 a very short one. * * 
 Curves in the handles 
 throw centers of grav- 
 ity where they belong. 
 Good timber generally 
 warps in a handle 
 about right, only 
 
 implement - mak- 24. one 
 ers and babes in of the best 
 weeding may not iiand-weed- 
 know when it is 
 made fast right side up in 
 the hoe. 
 
 "There are plenty of 
 thrust - hoes in 
 market, such as 
 they are. Some 
 have malleable iron 
 sockets and bows 
 
 Finger-weeder. — heavier to the 
 
 23. Home-made 
 scarifier or scraper 
 
 25. 
 
 Home-made hand 
 weeder. 
 
SCARIFIERS 
 
 31 
 
 buyer and cheaper to the dealer — instead of wrought- 
 iron and steel, such as is required for true worth." 
 For many purposes, tools which scrape or scar- 
 ify the surface are preferable to hoes which dig 
 up the ground. Weeds may be kept down by 
 cutting them off, as in walks and often 
 in flower-beds, rather than by rooting 
 them out. Fig. 21 shows such a tool, 
 
 27. Long 
 handled 
 trowel. 
 
 28. Improvised 29. Weed- 
 trowel, spud. 
 
 30. Weed-cutter. 
 
 and a home-made implement answering the same 
 purpose is illustrated in Fig. 22. This latter tool 
 is easily made from strong band-iron. Another 
 type is suggested in Fig. 23, which represents a 
 slicing -hoe made by fastening a sheet of metal 
 to the tines of a broken fork. 
 
32 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 For small beds of flowers or vegetables, hand- 
 weeders of various patterns are essential to easy 
 and efficient work. One of the best pat- 
 terns, with long and short handles, is 
 shown in Fig. 24. Another style, which 
 may be made at home of hoop -iron, is 
 drawn in Fig. 25. A finger -weeder is 
 shown in Fig. 26. Many patterns of 
 hand-weeders are in the market, and 
 other forms will suggest themselves to 
 the operator. 
 
 Small hand -tools for digging, as trow- 
 els, dibbers and spuds, may be had of 
 dealers. In buying a trowel it is econ- 
 omy to pay an extra price and secure a 
 steel blade with a strong shank which 
 runs through the entire length of the 
 handle. One of these tools 
 will last several years 
 be used in hard 
 the cheap trowels 
 generally hardly 
 worth the buy- 
 ing. One of 
 the steel imple- 
 ments may be 
 secured to a 
 long handle; or the blade of a broken trowel may 
 be utilized in the same way (Fig. 27). A very 
 good trowel may also be made from a discarded 
 
 Weed-cutter. 
 
 32. Hand-roller. 
 
VARIOUS TOOLS 
 
 33 
 
 blade of a mowing -machine (Fig. 28), and it 
 answers the purpose of a hand-weeder in many 
 places. 
 
 Weed -spuds are shown in Figs. 29, 30, 31. 
 
 33. Roller and marker. 
 
 The first is particularly serviceable in cutting 
 docks and other strong weeds from lawns and 
 
 34. Roller and marker. 
 
 pastures. It is provided with a brace to allow it 
 to be thrust into the ground with the foot. 
 
 It is often essential that the land be compacted 
 after it has been spaded or hoed, and some kind 
 
34 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 of hand -roller is then useful. Very efficient 
 iron rollers are in the market, but a good one 
 
 can be made from a hard 
 
 chestnut or oak log, as 
 
 shown in Fig. 32. It 
 
 should be remembered 
 
 that when the surface is 
 
 hard and compact, water 
 
 escapes from it rapidly, 
 
 and plants may suffer for moisture upon arrival 
 
 of warm weather. The roller is useful in two 
 
 ways — to compact the under -surface, in which 
 
 35. Marking-stick. 
 
 36. Tool for spacing out 
 plants. 
 
 37. Barrow rigged with 
 a marker. 
 
 case the surface should be again loosened as 
 soon as the rolling is done ; and to firm the 
 earth about seeds (page 10) or the roots of 
 newly -set plants. 
 
MARKERS 
 
 35 
 
 A marker may often be combined with the 
 roller to good advantage, as in Fig. 33. Ropes 
 
 38. Hand sled-marker. 
 
 are secured about the cylinder at proper inter- 
 vals, and these mark the rows. Knots may be 
 
 39. Trailing sled-marker. 
 
 placed in the ropes to indicate the places where 
 plants are to be set or seeds dropped. An exten- 
 sion of the same idea is seen in Fig. 34, which 
 
36 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 shows iron or wooden pegs that make holes in 
 which very small plants may be set. An L- shaped 
 rod projects at one side to mark the place of the 
 next row. 
 
 In most instances, the best and most expedi- 
 tious method of marking out the garden is by 
 
 40. Adjustable sled-marker. 
 
 the use of the garden line, which is secured to a 
 I'eel (Fig. 20), but various other devices are often 
 useful. For very small beds, drills or furrows 
 may be made by a simple marking -stick (Fig. 
 35). A handy marker is shown in Fig. 36. A 
 marker can be rigged to a wheel -barrow, as in 
 Fig. 37. A rod is secured underneath the front 
 truss, and from its end an adjustable trailer, B, 
 is hung. The wheel of the barrow marks the 
 row, and the trailer indicates the place of the 
 next row, thereby keeping the rows parallel. A 
 hand sled- marker is shown in Fig. 38, and a 
 similar device may be secured to the frame of a 
 
HOW TO SOW SEEDS 37 
 
 sulky cultivator (Fig. 39) or other wheel tool. 
 A good adjustable sled -marker is outlined in 
 Fig. 40. 
 
 SOWING AND PLANTING. 
 
 Sowing the seed. — The sled -markers open a 
 furrow of sufficient depth for the planting of 
 most seeds. If marker furrows are not available, 
 a furrow may be opened with a hoe for such deep- 
 planted seeds as peas and sweet -peas, or by a 
 trowel or end of a rake -stale for smaller seeds. 
 Plant when the ground is moist, if possible, and 
 preferably just before a rain, if the soil is of 
 such character that it will not bake. For shal- 
 low-planted seeds, firm the earth above them by 
 walking over the row or by patting it down with 
 a hoe. Care should be exercised not to sow very 
 small and slow -germinating seeds, as celery, car- 
 rot, onion, in poorly prepared soil or in land 
 which bakes. With such seeds it is well to sow 
 seeds of radish or turnip, for these germinate 
 quickly and break the crust, and also mark the 
 row so that tillage may be begun before the 
 regular -crop seeds are up. 
 
 Land may be prevented from baking over the 
 seeds by scattering a very thin layer of fine 
 litter, as chaff, or of sifted moss or mold, over 
 the row. A board is sometimes laid on the row 
 to retain the moisture, but it must be lifted 
 gradually just as soon as the plants begin to 
 
38 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 break the ground, or the plants will be greatly 
 injured. Wherever practicable, seed-beds of cel- 
 ery and other slow -germinating seeds should be 
 shaded. If the beds are watered, be careful that 
 the soil is not packed by the force of the water 
 or baked by the sun. In thickly sown seed- 
 beds, thin or transplant the plants as soon as 
 they have made their first true leaves. 
 
 For most home -grounds, seeds may be sown by 
 hand, but for large areas of one crop, one of the 
 many kinds of seed -sowers may be used. The 
 particular methods of sowing seeds are specified 
 under the discussions of the different plants, if 
 any other than ordinary treatment is required. 
 The depth at which seeds are to be sown varies 
 with the kind, the soil and its preparation, the 
 season, and whether they are planted in the open 
 or in the house. In boxes and under glass, it is 
 a good rule that the seed be sown to a depth 
 equal to twice its own diameter, but deeper sow- 
 ing is usually necessary out of doors, particu- 
 larly in hot and dry weather. More specific re- 
 marks upon propagation by seed and otherwise 
 may be found in "The Nurserj'-Book." 
 
 Transplanting young seedlings.— In the 
 transplanting of cabbages, tomatoes, flowers, and 
 all plants which are recently started from seeds, 
 it is important that the ground be thoroughly 
 fined and compacted. Plants usually live better 
 if transplanted into ground which has been freshly 
 
TRANSPLANTING 
 
 39 
 
 turned. If possible, transplant in cloudy or rainy 
 
 weather, particularly if late in the season. Firm 
 
 the earth snugly 
 
 about the roots with 
 
 the hands or feet, 
 
 in order to bring up 
 
 the soil moisture ; 
 
 but it is generally 
 
 best to rake the 
 
 surface in order to 
 
 establish the earth -mulch, unless the plants are 
 
 so small that their roots cannot reach through 
 
 the mulch. 
 
 In order to reduce the evaporation from the 
 
 41. Paper screen for newly 
 transplanted plants. 
 
 
 >\xv 
 
 42. Shearing of plants when transplanting. 
 
 plant, shingles may be stuck into the ground so 
 as to shade the plant; or a screen may be im- 
 provised with pieces of paper (Fig. 41), tin cans. 
 
40 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 inverted flower-pots, coverings of brush, or other 
 means. It is nearly always advisable to remove 
 some of the foliage, particularly if the plant has 
 several leaves and if it has not been grown in a 
 pot, and also if the transplanting is done in 
 
 43. Cutting back or shearing the plants. 
 
 warm weather. Fig. 42 shows a good treatment 
 for transplanted plants. With the foliage all left 
 on, the plants are likely to behave as in the 
 upper row, but with most of it cut off, as in the 
 lower row, there is little wilting, and new leaves 
 soon start. Fig. 43 also shows what part of the 
 leaves may be cut off on transplanting. If the 
 
DIBBERS 
 
 41 
 
 soil is freshly turned and the transplanting is 
 well done, it rarely will be necessary to water the 
 plants; but if watering is necessary, it should 
 
 44. A serviceable 
 dibber. 
 
 45. Transplanting by means 
 of a dibber. 
 
 be done at nightfall, and the surface should be 
 loosened the next morning, or as soon as it be- 
 comes dry. 
 
 In the transplanting of young plants, some kind 
 of a dibber should be used to make the holes. 
 
42 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 Dibbers make holes without removing any of the 
 earth. A good form of dibber is shown in Fig. 
 
 44, which is like a 
 Many persons prefer 
 conical dibber, like 
 
 45. For hard soils 
 strong dibber may 
 which has a right- 
 serve as a handle, 
 softened by slipping 
 
 flat or plane trowel, 
 a cylindrical and 
 that shown in Fig. 
 and larger plants, a 
 be made from a limb 
 angled branch to 
 This handle may be 
 a piece of rubber 
 
 46. A home-made 
 and padded dibber. 
 
 47. Dibber and 
 crow-bar combined. 
 
 48. Strawberry 
 planter. 
 
 hose on it (Fig. 46). A long iron dibber, which 
 may also be used as a crow-bar, is shown in 
 
DIBBERS 
 
 43 
 
 Fig. 47. In transplanting with the dibber, a 
 hole is first made, by a thrust of the tool, and 
 the earth is then pressed against the root by 
 
 49. Plunging pots. 50. Setting large tub-plants in the lawn. 
 
 means of the foot, hand, or the dibber itself 
 (as in Fig. 45). The hole is not filled by put- 
 ting in dirt at the top. 
 
 For large plants, a broader dibber may be used. 
 An implement like that shown in Fig. 48 is use- 
 ful for setting strawberries and other plants with 
 large roots. It is made of two -inch plank, with 
 a block on top to act as foot -rest and to prevent 
 the blade from going too deep. In order to pro- 
 vide space for the foot and to easily direct the 
 
44 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 thrust, the handle may be placed at one side of 
 the middle. For plunging pots, a dibber like 
 that shown in Fig. 49 is useful, particularly when 
 the soil is so hard that a long -pointed tool is 
 necessary. The bottom of the hole may be filled 
 with earth before the pot is inserted; but it is 
 often advisable to leave the vacant space below 
 (as in h) to provide drainage, to keep the plant 
 from rooting, and to prevent earth-worms from 
 entering the hole in the bottom of the pot. 
 For smaller pots, the tool may be inserted a 
 less depth (as at c) . 
 
 Transplanting established plants and 
 TREES. — In setting potted plants out of doors, 
 it is nearly alwaj'S advisable to plunge them, — 
 that is, to set the pots into the earth, — unless 
 the place is very wet. The pots are then watered 
 by the rainfall, and demand little care. If the 
 plants are to be returned to the house in the 
 fall, they should not be allowed to root through 
 the hole in the pot, and the rooting may be 
 prevented by turning the pot around ever}^ few 
 days. Large decorative plants may be made to 
 look as if growing naturally in the lawn by 
 sinking the pot or box just below the surface 
 level and rolling the sod over it, as suggested 
 in Fig. 50. A space around and below the tub 
 may be provided to insure drainage. 
 
 For the shifting of very large tub -plants, a 
 box or tub with moveable sides, as in Fig. 51, 
 
TRANSPLANTING TREES 
 
 45 
 
 is handy and efficient. The plant -box recom- 
 mended to parties who grew plants for exhibition 
 at the World's Fair is shown in Fig. 52. It is 
 made of strong boards or planks. At A is shown 
 the inside of one of two opposite sections or 
 sides, four feet wide at top, three feet wide at 
 bottom and three feet high. The cleats are two- 
 by-four scantlings, through which holes are bored 
 to admit the bolts with which the box is to be 
 held together. B is an outside view of one of 
 the alternating sections, 
 three feet four inches 
 wide at top, two feet 
 four inches at bottom, 
 and three feet deep. 
 A one -by -six strip is 
 nailed through the cen- 
 ter to give strength. 
 C is an end view of 
 A, showing the bolts 
 and also a two-by-four 
 cleat to which the bottom is to be nailed, 
 box was used mostly for transporting 
 growing stock to the exposition, the stock having 
 been dug from the open and the box secured 
 around the ball of earth. 
 
 Very large trees can often be moved with safety. 
 It is essential that the transplanting be done 
 when the trees are perfectly dormant, — winter 
 being preferable, — that a large mass of earth and 
 
 51. 
 
 Plant-box with a move- 
 able side. 
 
 This 
 large 
 
46 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 roots be taken with the tree, and that the top 
 be vigorously cut back. Large trees are often 
 moved in winter upon a stone -boat, by securing 
 a large ball of earth frozen about the roots. 
 This frozen ball is secured by digging about the 
 
 52. Box for transporting large transplanted stock. 
 
 tree for several days in succession, so that the 
 freezing progresses with the excavation. A good 
 device for moving such trees is shown in Fig. 
 53. The trunk of the tree is securely wrapped 
 with burlaps or other soft material, and a ring 
 or chain is then secured about it. A long pole, 
 
MOVING LARGE TREES . 47 
 
 &, is run over the truck of a wagon and the end 
 of it is secured to the chain or ring upon the tree. 
 This pole is a lever for raising the tree out of 
 the ground. A team is hitched to a, and a man 
 holds the pole h. 
 
 The following more explicit directions for mov- 
 ing large trees are by Edward Hicks, who has had 
 much experience in the business, and who made 
 this report to the press a few years ago: "In 
 moving large trees, say those ten to twelve inches 
 in diameter and twenty -five to thirty feet high, 
 it is well to prepare them by trimming and 
 cutting or sawing off the roots at a proper dis- 
 tance from the trunks, say six to eight feet, 
 in June. The cut roots heal over and send out 
 fibrous roots, which should not be injured more 
 than is necessary in moving the trees next fall 
 or spring. Young, thrifty maples and elms, 
 originally from the nursery, do not need such 
 Ijreparation nearly as much as other and older 
 trees. In moving a tree, we begin by digging 
 a wide trench six to eight feet from it, leaving 
 all possible roots fast to it. By digging under 
 the tree in the wide trench, and working the 
 soil out of the roots by means of round or 
 dull -pointed sticks, the soil falls into the cavity 
 made under the tree. Three or four men in as 
 many hours could get so much of the soil away 
 from the roots that it would be safe to attach a 
 rope and tackle to the upper part of the trunk 
 
48 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 and to some adjoining post or tree for the pur- 
 pose of pulling the tree over. A good quantity 
 of bagging must be put around tlie tree under 
 the rope to prevent injury, and care should be 
 taken that the pulling of the rope does not split 
 
 off or break a limb. A 
 team is hitched to the end 
 of the draft rope, and slowl}^ 
 driven in the proper direction 
 to pull the tree over. If 
 the tree does not readily tip 
 over, dig under and cut off 
 any fast root. While it is 
 tipped over, work out more 
 of the soil with the sticks. 
 Now pass a large 
 rope, double, 
 
 around a few 
 large roots close 
 to the tree, leav- 
 ing the ends of 
 the rope turned 
 up by the trunk to be used in lifting the tree 
 at the proper time. Tip the tree in the op- 
 posite direction and put another large rope 
 around the large roots close to the trunk; remove 
 more soil and see that no roots are fast to the 
 ground. Four guy -ropes attached to the upper 
 parts of the tree, as shown in the cut (Fig. 54), 
 should be put on properly and used to prevent 
 
 53. Moving a lai-ge tree. 
 
MOVING LARGE TREES 
 
 49 
 
 the tree from tipping over too far as well as 
 to keep it upright. A good deal of the soil 
 can be put back in the hole without covering 
 the roots, to get it out of the way of the ma- 
 chine. The latter can now be placed about the 
 tree by removing the front part, fastened by 
 four bolts, placing the frame with the hind 
 
 G^_ ;,>^^' ^.It^ 
 
 54. The tree ready to lift. 
 
 wheels around the tree and replacing the front 
 parts. Two timbers, three -by -nine inches, and 
 twenty feet long, are now placed on the ground 
 under the hind wheels, and in front of them, 
 parallel to each other, for the purpose of keep- 
 ing the hind wheels up out of the big hole 
 when drawing the tree away ; and they are 
 also used while backing the hind wheels across 
 the new hole in which the tree is to be planted. 
 
50 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 The machine (Figs. 54, 55) consists of a hind 
 axle twelve feet long, and broad -tired wheels. 
 The frame is made of spruce three -by -eight 
 inches and twent}^ feet long. The braces are 
 three -b}"- five inches and ten feet long, and up- 
 right three -by -nine inches and three feet high; 
 
 The tree ready to move. 
 
 these are bolted to the hind axle and main frame. 
 The front axle has a set of blocks bolted together 
 and of sufficient height to support the front end 
 of the frame. . Into the top timbers, three -by -six 
 inches, hollows are cut at the proper distances 
 to receive the ends of two locust rollers. A 
 windlass or winch is put at each end of the 
 frame, by which trees can easily and steadily be 
 lifted and lowered, the large double ropes pass- 
 
MOVING LARGE TREES 51 
 
 ing over the rollers to the windlasses. A locust 
 boom is put across the machine under the frame 
 and above the braces; iron pins hold it in place. 
 The side guy -ropes are made fast to the ends of 
 this boom. The other guy -ropes are made fast 
 to the front and rear parts of the machine. Four 
 rope loops are made fast inside of the frame, and 
 are so placed that by passing a rope around the 
 trunk of the tree and through the loops two or 
 three times, a rope ring is made around the tree 
 that will keep the trunk in the middle of the 
 frame and not allow it to hit either the edges or 
 the rollers — a very necessary safeguard. As the 
 tree is slowly lifted by the windlasses, the guy- 
 ropes are loosened, as needed. The tree will 
 pass obstructions, such as trees by the roadside, 
 but in doing so it is better to lean the tree back- 
 ward. When the tree has arrived at its new 
 place, the two timbers are placed along the oppo- 
 site edges of the hole so that the hind wheels 
 can be backed over it. The tree is then lowered 
 to the proper depth, and made plumb by the 
 guy -ropes, and good, mellow soil is thrown in 
 and packed well into all the cavities under the 
 roots. When the hole is half filled, several bar- 
 rels of w^ater should be poured in; this will 
 wash the soil into the cavities under the center 
 of the tree much better. When the water has 
 settled away, fill in and pack the soil till the 
 hole is little more than full. Leave a depression, 
 
52 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 SO that all the rain that may fall will be retained. 
 The tree should now be judiciously trimmed and 
 the machine removed. Five men can take up, 
 move and plant a tree in a day, if the distance 
 
 
 56. Tree well planted. 
 
 Tree not well planted. 
 
 is short and the digging not too hard. The tree 
 should be properly wired to stakes to prevent the 
 wind from blowing it over. The front part of 
 the machine is a part of our platform spring 
 market -wagon, while the hind wheels are from a 
 wood -axle wagon. A tree ten inches in diame- 
 
PRUNING THE TOPS 
 
 53 
 
 ter, with some dirt adhering to its roots, will 
 weigh a ton or more." 
 
 In the planting of any tree or bush, the roots 
 should be cut back beyond all breaks and serious 
 bruises, and the earth should be 
 thoroughly filled in and firmed 
 about them, as in Fig. 56. No 
 implement is so 
 good as the fin- 
 gers for working 
 the soil about 
 
 the roots. If the 
 
 tree has many 
 
 roots, work it up 
 
 and down slightly 
 
 several times dur- 
 ing the filling of 
 
 the hole, to settle 
 
 the earth in place. 
 When the earth is thrown in 
 roots are jammed together, and often an empty 
 place is left beneath the crown, as in Fig. 57, 
 which causes the roots to dry out. 
 
 The marks upon the tops of these trees in Figs. 
 56 and 57 show where the branches should be cut 
 off. See also Fig. 66. Figs. 58 and 59 show 
 the tops of trees after pruning. Strong, branchy 
 trees, as apples, pears and ornamental trees, are 
 usually headed back in this way, upon planting. 
 If the tree has one straight leader and many or 
 
 58. Pruned tree. 
 
 Pruned tree 
 
 carelessly, the 
 
54 
 
 General advice 
 
 several slender branches (Fig. 60), it is nsnally 
 pruned as in Fig. 61, each branch being cut back 
 
 i 
 
 f 
 
 f 
 
 60- Peach tree. 
 
 61. Peach tree pruned 
 for planting. 
 
 to one or two buds. If there are no branches, 
 or very few of them, — in which case there will 
 be good buds upon the main stem, — the leader 
 
WHEN TO PLANT 55 
 
 may be cut back a third or half its length, to a 
 mere whip. Ornamental bushes with long tops 
 are usually cut back a third or a half when set, 
 as shown in Fig. 150. Full discussions of both 
 pruning and training may be found in " The Prun- 
 ing- Book." 
 
 In general, it is best to set all hardy plants in 
 the fall, particularly if the soil is fairly dry and 
 the exposure is not too bleak. To this class 
 belong most of the fruit trees and ornamental 
 trees and shrubs; also hard}^ herbs, like colum- 
 bines, peonies, lilies, bleeding -hearts, and the like. 
 They should be planted as soon as they are thor- 
 oughly mature, so that the leaves begin to fall 
 naturally. If any leaves remain upon the tree 
 or bush at planting time, strip them off, unless 
 the plant is an evergreen. It is generall}^ best 
 not to cut back fall -plan ted trees to the full 
 extent desired, but to shorten them in three- 
 fourths of the required amount in the fall, and 
 take off the remaining fourth in the spring, so 
 that no dead or dry tips are left upon the plant. 
 Evergreens, as pines and spruces, are not headed- 
 in much, and usually not at all. All tender 
 and very small plants should be set in the spring, 
 in which case very early planting is desirable. 
 
 In well -compacted land, trees and shrubs should 
 be set at about the same depth as they stood in 
 the nursery, but if the land has been deeply 
 trenched or if it is loose from other causes, the 
 
56 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 plants should be set deeper, because the earth 
 will probably settle. The hole should be filled 
 with fiue surface earth. It is generally not ad- 
 
 *"l^fiMMit'^u>^ 
 
 62. Planting-board. 
 
 visable to place manure in the hole, but if it is 
 used it should be of small amount and very 
 thoroughly mixed with the earth, else it will cause 
 the soil to dry out. In lawns and other places 
 where surface tillage cannot be given, a light 
 mulch of litter or manure may be placed about 
 
 Device for locating the tree. 
 
 the plants; but the earth -mulch (page 8), when 
 it can be secured, is much the best conserver of 
 moisture. 
 
 In order to set trees in rows, it is necessary to 
 use a garden line (Fig. 20), or to mark out the 
 ground with some of the devices already described 
 (Figs. 33-40) ; or in large areas, the place may be 
 
MAKING THE ROWS STRAIGHT 
 
 57 
 
 staked out.* There are various devices for locat- 
 ing the place of the stake after the stake has been 
 removed and the hole dug. One of the simplest 
 and best is shown in Fig. 62. It is a simple nar- 
 row and thin board with a notch in the center and 
 
 
 64. Setting trees to a line. 
 
 a peg in either end, one of the pegs being sta- 
 tionary. The implement is so placed that the 
 notch meets the stake; then one end of it is 
 thrown out of the way until the hole is dug. 
 When the implement is brought again to its origi- 
 nal position, the notch marks the place of the 
 
 *Very full directions for laying out orchards are given in " Principles 
 of Fruit-Growing." 
 
58 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 stake and the tree. Fig. 63 is a device with a lid, 
 in the end of which is a notch to mark the place 
 of the stake. This lid is thrown back, as shown 
 by the dotted lines, when the hole is being dug. 
 Fig. 64 shows a method of bringing trees in row 
 by measuring from a line. 
 
 WINTER PROTECTION OF PLANTS. 
 
 If the ground is not ready for planting in the 
 fall, or if it is desired to delay until spring, the 
 trees or bushes may be heeled -in, as illustrated in 
 Fig. 65. The roots are laid in a furrow or trench, 
 and are covered with well -firmed earth. Straw 
 or manure may be thrown over the earth to still 
 further protect the roots, but if it is thrown over 
 the tops mice may be attracted by it and the trees 
 
 
 65. Trees heeled -in for the winter. 
 
MOUNDING AND MULCHING 
 
 59 
 
 be girdled. Tender trees or bushes may be 
 lightly covered to the tips with earth. Plants 
 should be heeled -in only in loose, warm, loamy 
 or sandy soil and in a well -drained place. 
 
 Fall -planted trees should generally be mounded 
 up, sometimes even as high as 
 shown in Fig. 66. This hilling 
 holds the tree in position, carries 
 off the water, prevents too deep 
 freezing, and holds the earth 
 from heaving. The mound is 
 taken away in the spring. It 
 is sometimes advisable to mound 
 up established trees in the fall,- 
 but on well -drained land the 
 practice is not usually necessary. 
 In hilling trees, pains should be taken not to 
 leave deep holes, from which the earth was dug, 
 close to the tree, for water collects in them. 
 
 It is always advisable to mulch plants which are 
 set in the fall. Any loose and dry material — as 
 straw, manure, leaves, leaf -mold, litter from yards 
 and stables, pine boughs — may be used for this 
 purpose. Very strong or compact manures, as 
 that in which there is little straw or litter, should 
 be avoided. The ground may be covered to a 
 depth of five or six inches, or even a foot or more 
 if the material is loose. Avoid throwing strong 
 manure directly upon the crown of the plants, 
 especially of herbs, for the materials which leach 
 
 G6. Tree earthed 
 up for winter. 
 
60 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 from the manure sometimes injure the crown 
 buds and the roots. 
 
 This protection may also be ^'iven to established 
 plants, particularly to those which, like roses and 
 herbaceous plants, are expected to give a profusion 
 of bloom the following year. This mulch affords 
 not only winter protection, but is an efficient 
 means of fertilizing the land. A large part of 
 the plant -food materials have leached out of the 
 mulch by spring, and have become incorporated in 
 the soil, where the plant makes ready use of them. 
 Mulches also serve a most useful purpose in pre- 
 venting the ground from packing and baking from 
 the weight of snows and rains, and the cementing 
 action of too much water in the surface soil. In 
 the spring, the coarser parts of the mulch may be 
 removed, and the finer parts spaded or hoed into 
 the ground. 
 
 Tender bushes and small trees may be wrapped 
 up with straw, hay, burlaps, or pieces of matting 
 or carpet. Even rather large trees, like bearing 
 peach trees, are often baled up in this way, or 
 sometimes with corn fodder, although the results 
 in the protection of fruit buds are not often very 
 satisfactory. It is important that no grain is left 
 in the baling material, else mice may be attracted 
 to it. It should be known, too, that the object in 
 tying up or baling plants is not so much to pro- 
 tect from direct cold as to mitigate the effects of 
 alternate freezing and thawing, and to protect 
 
WINTER PROTECTION 
 
 61 
 
 from drying winds. Plants may be wrapped so 
 thick and tight as to injure them. Be sure that 
 no water stands about the roots of tender trees, 
 and cover the surrounding ground with a heavy 
 mulch of leaves or straw. The labor of protecting 
 large plants is often great and the results uncer- 
 tain, and in most cases it is a question if more 
 satisfaction could not be obtained by growing 
 only hardy trees and shrubs. 
 
 The objection to covering tender woody plants 
 cannot be urged with equal force against tender 
 
 67. Covering plants with a box. 
 
 herbs or very low bushes, for these are protected 
 with ease. Even the ordinary mulch may afford 
 sufficient protection; and if the tops kill back, the 
 plant quickly renews itself from the base, and in 
 many plants, — as in most hybrid perpetual roses, — 
 the best bloom is upon these new growths of the 
 season. Old boxes or barrels may be used to pro- 
 tect tender low plants (Figs. 67, 68). The box is 
 filled with leaves or dry straw, and either left 
 
62 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 open on top or covered with boards, boughs or 
 even with burlaps (Fig. 68). 
 
 The tops of plants may be laid down for the 
 winter. Fig. 69 shows a method of laying down 
 blackberries, as practiced in the Hudson River 
 Valley. The plants were tied to a trellis, as the 
 method is in that country, two wires (a, h) having 
 been run upon either side of the row. The posts 
 are hinged on a pivot to a short post (c), and are 
 
 held in position by a brace 
 (d) . The entire trellis is 
 then laid down upon the ap- 
 proach of winter, as shown 
 in the illustration. The 
 blackberry tops are so strong 
 that they hold the wires up 
 from the ground, even when 
 the trellis is laid down. To 
 hold the wires close to the 
 earth, stakes are thrust over them in a slanting 
 position, as shown at n n. The snow which 
 drifts through the plants ordinarily affords suffi- 
 cient protection for plants which are as hardy 
 as grapes and berries. In fact, the plants may 
 be uninjured even without cover, since, in their 
 prostrate position, they escape the cold and dry- 
 ing winds. 
 
 In severe climates, or in the case of tender 
 plants, the tops should be covered with straw, 
 boughs or litter, as recommended for regular 
 
 68. Protecting plants 
 with a barrel. 
 
LAYING DOWN PLANTS 
 
 63 
 
 mulch -covers. Sometimes a V-shaped trough 
 made from two boards is placed over the stems 
 of long or vine -like plants which have been laid 
 down. All plants with slender or more or less 
 pliant stems can be laid down with ease. With 
 
 69, Laying down trellis-grown blackberries. 
 
 such protection, figs can be grown in the northern 
 states. Peach and other fruit trees may be so 
 trained as to be tipped over and covered. For an 
 account of the method, see "Principles of Fruit- 
 Growing." 
 
 Laid -down plants are often injured by the reten- 
 tion of the covering too late in the spring. The 
 ground warms up early, and may start the buds 
 on parts of the buried plants, and these tender 
 buds may be broken when the plants are raised. 
 
64 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 or injured by sun, wind or frost. The plants 
 should be raised while the wood and buds are 
 still hard and dormant. 
 
 Inasmuch as dark colors absorb heat, and light 
 colors reflect it,' Whitten, of the Missouri Experi- 
 ment Station ( Bulletin 38 ) , was led to try the 
 effects of whitewashing peach trees for the pur- 
 pose of preventing the premature swelling of the 
 buds. The results were marked and satisfactory. 
 The following quotations explain the method and 
 results: "The expense of whitening is not great. 
 A common lime whitewash was at first used, but 
 it washed off badly during rainy weather. Finally 
 a whitewash of lime, with one -fifth skim milk 
 added to the water, was tried with much more 
 satisfactory results. About one pound of salt was 
 also dissolved in each bucketful of the whitewash. 
 Four applications of this wash, applied during the 
 winter and spring, are sufficient to keep the peach 
 trees thoroughly whitened. The first whitening 
 should be done early in winter, shortly before 
 Christmas. The wash may be sprayed on with 
 almost any kind of a spray pump. We found the 
 Bordeaux nozzle to be satisfactory, as a solid 
 stream could readily be turned on if the lime 
 clogged the nozzle. The whitening should be 
 repeated as often as the lime is washed off by 
 rains. A good wash, however, will adhere well 
 for weeks. The trees need two sprayings to begin 
 with, just as wood needs two coats of paint in 
 
WHITEWASHING TREES 65 
 
 order to cover it well. Two subsequent sprayings 
 are sufficient. The whitewash should be made as 
 thick as can be sprayed through a Bordeaux noz- 
 zle. We used a small bucket spray pump, and 
 applied about one -half a bucketful to a tree at 
 each spraying. The time required to apply the 
 whitewash will vary from five to ten minutes, 
 according to the kind of pump and to the size of 
 the trees. The more trees that are sprayed, the 
 cheaper it can be done per tree. Altogether, the 
 cost need not exceed ten cents per tree for the 
 winter." 
 
 Following is a summary of the results: 
 
 "In this latitude, winter -killing of the fruit- 
 buds of the peach is usually due to the unfavor- 
 able effects of freezing after they have been stimu- 
 lated into growth by warm weather, during win- 
 ter or early spring. 
 
 "This early swelling and growth of the buds is 
 due to the warmth they receive, is practically inde- 
 pendent of root action, and may take place on 
 warm, sunny days in winter, while the roots are 
 frozen and dormant. 
 
 "Peach fruit -buds may safely endure a tempera- 
 ture of ten or twenty degrees below zero, provided 
 they mature well in autumn, are entirely dormant, 
 and the cold comes on gradually. 
 
 "Zero weather may kill fruit -buds that have 
 swollen during previous warm days, or that were 
 not properly ripened in autumn. 
 
66 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 "Shading or whitening peach trees to prevent 
 their absorbing heat on sunny days, opposes 
 growth of the buds and is, consequently, a pro- 
 tective measure. 
 
 "Shading the trees with board sheds enabled 
 peach buds to survive the winter uninjured, when 
 eighty per cent of unprotected buds were killed. 
 Trees protected in this way blossomed later, 
 remained in bloom longer, set more fruit in pro- 
 portion to the number of apparently perfect 
 flowers, and held their fruit better than any other 
 trees on the station grounds. This is the most 
 effective means of winter protection tried at the 
 station, but it is probably too expensive for com- 
 mercial orchards. 
 
 "Whitening the twigs and buds by spraying 
 them with whitewash is, on account of its cheap- 
 ness and beneficial effects, the most promising 
 method of winter protection tried at this station. 
 
 "Whitened buds remained practically dormant 
 until April, when unprotected buds swelled per- 
 ceptibly during warm days late in February and 
 early in March. Whitened buds blossomed three 
 to six days later than unprotected buds. Eighty 
 per cent of whitened buds passed the winter 
 safely, when only twenty per cent of un whitened 
 buds passed the winter unharmed. 
 
 "Thermometers covered with purple material 
 registered, during bright, sunny weather, from ten 
 to over twenty degrees higher than thermometers 
 
GETTING PLANTS EARLY 
 
 67 
 
 covered with white material of similar texture, 
 thus iudicatiug- that whitened peach twigs might 
 be expected to absorb much less heat than those 
 that were not whitened." 
 
 THE FORCING OF PLANTS 
 
 There are three general means of forcing plants 
 ahead of their season in the early spring — by 
 means of hand boxes and forcing -hills, by cold- 
 frames, and by hotbeds. 
 
 The forcing -hill is an arrangement by means of 
 which a single plant or a single hill of plants may 
 be forced where it permanently stands. This type 
 of forcing may be applied to perennial plants, as 
 rhubarb and asparagus, or 
 to annuals, as melons and 
 cucumbers. Fig. 70 illus- 
 trates a common method 
 of hastening the growth 
 of rhubarb in the spring. 
 A box made with four 
 removable sides, two of 
 which are shown in end 
 section in the figure, is 
 placed around the plant 
 in the fall. The inside of the box is filled with 
 straw or litter, and the outside is banked thor- 
 oughl}^ with any refuse, to prevent the ground from 
 freezing. When it is desired to start the plants, 
 the covering is removed from both the inside and 
 
 Forcing of rhubarb. 
 
68 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 outside of the box, and hot manure is piled around 
 the box to its top. If the weather is still cold, 
 dry light leaves or straw may be placed inside the 
 box, or a pane or sash of glass may be placed on 
 top of the box, to answer the purpose of a cold- 
 frame. Ehubarb, asparagus, sea -kale and similar 
 plants may be advanced from two to four weeks 
 by means of this method of forcing. Some gar- 
 deners use old barrels or half -barrels in place of 
 
 the box. The box, however, is better and handier, 
 and the sides can be stored for future use. 
 
 Plants which require a long season in which to 
 mature, and which do not transplant readil}', as 
 melons and cucumbers, may be planted in forcing- 
 hills in the field. One of these hills is shown in 
 Fig. 71. The frame or mold is shown at the 
 left. This mold is a box with flaring sides and 
 no top or bottom, and provided with a handle. 
 This frame is placed with the small end down at 
 the point where the seeds are to be planted, and 
 the earth is hilled up about it and firmly packed 
 with the feet. The mold is then withdrawn, and 
 a pane of glass is laid upon the top of the mound 
 
FORCING -HILLS 
 
 69 
 
 to concentrate the sun's rays, and to prevent the 
 bank from washing down with the rains. A clod 
 of earth or a stone may be placed upon the pane 
 to hold it down. This type of forcing -hill is not 
 much used, because the bank of earth is apt to 
 wash away, and heavy rain coming up when the 
 glass is off will fill the hill with water and di'own 
 the plant. However, it can be used to very good 
 advantage in cases where the gardener can give it 
 close attention. 
 
 A forcing -hill is sometimes made by digging a 
 hole in the ground and planting the seeds in the 
 
 72. Hand -box. 
 
 bottom of it, placing the pane of glass upon a 
 slight ridge or mound which is made upon the 
 surface of the ground. This method is less 
 desirable than the other, because the seeds are 
 placed in the poorest and coldest soil, and the 
 hole is very apt to fill with water in the early days 
 of spring. 
 
 An excellent type of forcing -hill is made by the 
 
70 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 use of the hand -box, as shown in Fig. 72. This 
 is a rectangular box, without top or bottom, and 
 a pane of glass is slipped into a groove at the top. 
 It is really a miniature coldframe. The earth is 
 banked up slightly about the box, in order to hold 
 it against winds and to prevent the water from 
 running into it. If these boxes are made of good 
 lumber and painted, they will last for many years. 
 Any size of glass maj^ be used which is desired, 
 but a ten-by- twelve pane is as good as any for 
 general purposes. 
 
 After the plants are thoroughly established in 
 these forcing -hills, and the weather is settled, the 
 protection is wholly removed, and the plants grow 
 normally in the open. 
 
 A very good temporary protection may be given 
 to tender plants by using four panes of glass, as 
 explained in Fig. 73, 
 the two inner panes 
 being held together at 
 the top by a block of 
 wood through which 
 four nails are driven. 
 Plants are more likely 
 to burn in these glass 
 frames than in the hand- 
 boxes, and such frames 
 
 are not so well adapted to the protection of plants 
 in very early spring ; but they are often useful 
 for special purposes. 
 
 73. Panes of glass used 
 for a forcing-hill. 
 
COLDFRAMES 71 
 
 In all forcing -hills, as in coldframes and hot- 
 beds, it is exceedingly important that the plants 
 receive plenty of air upon bright days. Plants 
 which are kept too close become weak or "drawn," 
 and lose the ability to withstand changes of 
 weather when the protection is removed. Even 
 though the wind is cold and raw, the plants inside 
 the frames will ordinarily not suffer if the glass 
 is taken off when the sun is shining. 
 
 Coldframes. — A coldframe is nothing more 
 than an enlarged hand -box ; that is, instead of 
 protecting but a single plant or a single hill with a 
 single pane of glass, it is covered with sash, and 
 is large enough to accommodate many plants. 
 There are three general purposes for which a 
 coldframe is used: For the starting of plants 
 early in spring ; for receiving partially hardened 
 plants which have been started earlier in hotbeds 
 and forcing -houses ; for wintering young cab- 
 bages, lettuce and other hardy plants which are 
 sown in the fall. 
 
 Coldframes are ordinarily placed near the build- 
 ings, and the plants are transplanted into the 
 field when settled weather comes. Sometimes, 
 however, they are made directly in the field where 
 the plants are to remain, and the frames, and not 
 the plants, are removed. When used for this lat- 
 ter purpose, the frames are made very cheap by 
 running two rows of parallel planks through 
 the field at a distance apart of six feet. The 
 
72 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 plank upon the north is ordinarily ten to twelve 
 inches wide, and that upon the south eight to ten 
 inches. These planks are held in place 
 by stakes, and the sashes are laid 
 across them. Seeds of radishes, beets, 
 lettuce, and the like, are then 
 sown beneath the sash, and 
 when settled weather 
 arrives the sash and 
 planks are removed 
 and the plants are 
 growing naturally in 
 the field. Half-hardy 
 plants, like those men- 
 tioned, may be started 
 fully two or three 
 weeks ,in advance of 
 the normal season by this means. 
 
 One of the simplest types of coldframes is 
 shown in Fig. 74, which is a lean-to against the 
 foundation of a house. A sill is run just above 
 the surface of the ground, and the sashes, shown 
 at D, are laid upon rafters which run from this sill 
 to the sill of the house, A. If this frame is upon 
 the south side of the building, plants may be 
 started even as early as a month before the open- 
 ing of the season. Such lean-to frames are some- 
 times made against greenhouses or warm cellars, 
 and heat is supplied to them by the opening of a 
 door in the wall, as at B. In frames which are in 
 
 74, Coldframe 
 against a building. 
 
LEAN-TO COLDFRAMES 
 
 73 
 
 such sunny positions as these, it is exceedingly 
 important that care be taken to remove the sash, 
 or at least to give ample ventilation, upon all 
 sunny days. 
 
 A different type of lean-to structure is shown 
 in Fig. 75. This may be either a temporary or 
 permanent building, and it is generally used for 
 
 --.T — -Txft 
 
 75. Coldframe, or weather screen, against a building. 
 
 the protection of half-hardy plants which are 
 grown in pots and tubs. It may be used, however, 
 for the purpose of forwarding pot -plants earl}- in 
 the spring and for the protection of peaches, 
 grapes, oranges or other fruits in tubs or boxes. 
 If it is desired to simply protect the plants through 
 the winter, it is best to have the structure upon the 
 
74 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 north side of the building, in order that the sun 
 may not force the plants into activity. 
 
 The common type of coldframe is shown in Fig. 
 76. It is twelve feet long and six feet wide, and 
 is covered with four three-by-six sash. It is made 
 of ordinar}^ lumber loosely nailed together. If 
 one expects to use coldframes or hotbeds every 
 year, however, it is advisable to make the frames 
 of two -inch stuff, well painted, and to join the 
 parts by bolts and tenons, so that they may be 
 taken apart and stored until needed for the next 
 year's crop. Fig. 77 suggests a method of mak- 
 ing the frames so that they may be taken apart. 
 
 It is always advisable to place coldframes and 
 hotbeds in a protected place, and especially to 
 protect them from cold north winds. Buildings 
 afford excellent protection, but the sun is some- 
 times too hot upon the south side of large and 
 
 
 76. A coldframe. 
 
 light -colored buildings. One of the best means 
 of protection is to plant a hedge of evergreens, as 
 shown in Fig. 78. It is always desirable, also, to 
 
PORTABLE COLDFRAMES 
 
 75 
 
 place all the coldframes and hotbeds close together, 
 for the purpose of economizing time and labor. 
 
 Various small and portable coldframes may be 
 used about the garden for the protection of ten- 
 der plants or to start them early in the spring. 
 Pansies, daisies and border carnations, for ex- 
 ample, may be brought on very early by setting 
 such frames over them or by planting them under 
 the frames in the fall. These frames maj be of 
 any size desired, and the sash may be either re- 
 
 77. A method of making a frame. 
 
 movable, or, in case of small frames, they may be 
 hinged at the top. Figs. 79-82 illustrate various 
 types of handy frames. 
 
 Hotbeds. — A hotbed differs from a coldframe 
 in having artificial bottom heat. This heat is 
 ordinarily supplied by means of fermenting ma- 
 nure, but it may be obtained from other ferment- 
 ing material, as tan -bark or leaves, or from arti- 
 ficial heat, as flues, steam pipes or water pipes. 
 The hotbed is used for the very early starting of 
 plants, and when the plants have outgrown the 
 bed, or have become too thick, they are trans- 
 
76 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 planted into cooler hotbeds or into coldframes. 
 There are many crops, however, which are carried 
 
 78. Coldframe against a hedge, and protected by straw mats. 
 
 to full maturity in the hotbed itself, as radishes 
 and lettuce. The date at which the hotbed may 
 be started with safety depends almost entirely 
 upon the means at command of heating it and 
 upon the skill of the operator. In the northern 
 states, where outdoor gardening does not begin 
 until the first or the last of May, hotbeds are 
 sometimes started as early as January; but they 
 are ordinarily delayed until early in March. 
 
 The heat for hotbeds is commonly supplied by 
 the fermentation of horse manure. It is impor- 
 tant that the manure be as uniform as possible 
 
HOTBEDS 
 
 77 
 
 in composition and textnre, that it come from 
 highly -fed horses, and is practically of the same 
 age. The best resnlts 
 are generally obtained 
 from manure from liv- 
 ery stables, from which 
 it can be obtained in 
 large quantities in a 
 short space of time. ^^^^^ 
 Perhaps as much as 
 one -half of the whole 
 material should be of litter or straw which has 
 been used in the bedding. The manure is piled 
 in a long and shallow square -topped pile, not 
 
 79. Portable coldframe. 
 
 Portable coldframe. 
 
 more than four or six feet high as a rule, and is 
 then allowed to ferment. Better results are gen- 
 erall}^ obtained if the manure is piled under cover. 
 If the weather is cold and fermentation does not 
 start readily, wetting the pile with hot water may 
 start it. The first fermentation is nearly always 
 irregular; that is, it begins unequally in several 
 places in the pile. In order to make the fermen- 
 
78 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 tation uniform, the pile must be turned occa- 
 sionally, taking care to break up all hard lumps 
 
 81. Portable coldframe. 
 
 and to distribute the hot manure throughout the 
 mass. It is sometimes necessary to turn the pile 
 five or six times before it is finally used, although 
 half this number of turnings is ordinarily suffi- 
 cient. When the pile is steaming uniformly 
 throughout, it is placed in the hotbed, and is 
 
 Small coldframe. 
 
 covered with the earth in which the plants are to 
 be grown. 
 
 Hotbed frames are sometimes set on top of the 
 pile of fermenting manure, as shown in Fig. 83. 
 The manure should extend for some distance 
 beyond the edges of the frame; otherwise the 
 frame will become too cold about the outside, and 
 the plants will suffer. It is preferable, however, 
 
HEAT FOR HOTBEDS 
 
 79 
 
 to have a pit beneath the frame in which the ma- 
 nure is placed. If the bed is to be started in 
 midwinter or very early in the spring, it is ad- 
 visable to make this pit in the fall and to fill it 
 with straw or other litter to prevent"] the earth 
 from freezing deep. When it is time to make the 
 bed, the litter is thrown out, and the ground is 
 warm and ready to receive the fermenting ma- 
 nure. The pit should be a foot wider upon either 
 
 83. Hotbed with manure on top of the ground. 
 
 side than the width of the frame. Fig. 84 is a 
 cross -section of such a hotbed pit. Upon the 
 ground a layer of an inch or two of any coarse 
 material is placed to keep the manure off the cold 
 earth. Upon this, from twelve to thirty inches 
 of manure is placed. Above the manure is a thin 
 layer of leaf -mold or some porous material, which 
 will serve as a distributor of the heat, and above 
 this is four or five inches of soft garden loam, in 
 which the plants are to be grown. 
 
80 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 It is advisable to place the manure in the pit in 
 layers, each stratum to be thoroughly trodden 
 down before another one is put in. These layers 
 should be from four to eight inches in thickness. 
 By this means the mass is easily made uniform in 
 consistency. Manure which has too much straw 
 for the best results, and which will therefore soon 
 part with its heat, will spring lip quickly when 
 
 84. Section of a hotbed. 
 
 the pressure of the feet is removed. Manure 
 which has too little straw, and which therefore 
 will not heat well or will spend its heat quickly, 
 will pack down into a soggy mass underneath the 
 feet. When the manure has sufficient litter, it 
 will give a springy feeling to the feet as a person 
 walks over it, but will not fluff up when the 
 
HOTBEDS 
 
 81 
 
 pressure is removed. The amount of manure 
 which is to be used will depend upon its quality, 
 and also upon the season in which the hotbed is 
 made. The earlier the bed is made, the larger 
 should be the quantity of manure. Hotbeds 
 which are supposed to hold for two months should 
 have about two feet of manure, as a rule. 
 
 The manure will ordinarily heat very vigorously 
 for a few daj's after it is placed in the bed. A 
 soil thermometer should be thrust through the 
 earth down to the manure, and the frame kept 
 
 iarexten§ed_ 
 
 85. Parallel runs of hotbeds with racks for holding sashes. 
 
 tightly closed. When the temperature is passing 
 below 90°, seeds of the warm plants, like tomatoes, 
 may be sown, and when it passes below 80° or 70° 
 the seeds of cooler plants may be sown. 
 
 If hotbeds are to be used every year, perma- 
 nent pits should be provided for them. Pits are 
 made from two to three feet deep, preferably the 
 former depth, and are walled up with stone or 
 brick. It is important that they be given good 
 drainage from below. In the summer-time, after 
 the sash are stripped, the old beds may be used 
 
82 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 for the growing of various delicate crops, like 
 melons or half-hardy flowers. In this position, 
 the plants can be protected in the fall. As already 
 suggested, the pits should be cleaned out in the 
 fall and filled with litter to facilitate the work of 
 making the new bed in the winter or spring. 
 
 Various modifications of the common type of 
 hotbed will suggest themselves to the operator. 
 The frames should ordinarily run in parallel rows, 
 
 V 
 
 86. Manure-heated forcing-house. 
 
 so that a man walking between them can attend 
 to the ventilation of two rows of sash at once. 
 Fig. 85 shows a different arrangement. There are 
 two parallel runs, with walks upon the outside, 
 and between them are racks to receive the sash 
 from the adjacent frames. The sash from the 
 left-hand bed are run tO the right, and those from 
 the right-hand bed are run to the left. Running 
 upon racks, the operator does not need to handle 
 them, and the breakage of glass is therefore less; 
 but this system is little used because of the diffi- 
 
PIPE -HEATED HOTBEDS 
 
 83 
 
 culty of reaching the farther side of the bed from 
 the single walk. 
 
 If the hotbed were high enough and broad 
 enough to allow a man to work inside, we should 
 have a forcing -house. Such a structure is shown 
 in Fig. 86, upon one side of which the manure 
 and soil are already in place. These manure- 
 heated houses are often very efficient, and are a 
 good make -shift until such time as the party can 
 afford to put in flue or pipe heat. 
 
 Hotbeds may be heated by means of steam or 
 hot water. They can 
 be piped from the 
 heater in a dwelling- 
 house or greenhouse . 
 Fig. 87 shows a hot- 
 bed with two pipes, 
 in the positions 7, 7. 
 below the bed. The 
 soil is shown at 4, 
 and the plants (which, 
 
 in this case, are vines) are growing upon a rack, 
 at 6. There are doors in the end of the house, 
 shown at 2,2, which may be used for ventilation 
 or for admitting air underneath the beds. The 
 pipes should not be surrounded by earth, but 
 should run through a free air space. 
 
 It would scarcely pay to put in a hot water or 
 steam heater for the express purpose of heating 
 hotbeds, for if such an expense were incurred, it 
 
 Pipe-heated hotbed. 
 
84 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 would be better to make a forcing -house. Hot- 
 beds may be heated, however, with hot air flues 
 with very good results. A home-made brick fur- 
 nace may be constructed in a pit at one end of 
 the run and underneath a shed, and the smoke 
 and hot air, instead of being carried directly up- 
 wards, is carried through a slightly rising hori- 
 zontal pipe which runs underneath the beds. For 
 some distance from the furnace, this flue may be 
 made of brick or unvitrified sewer pipe, but stove- 
 pipe may be used for the greater part of the run. 
 The chimney is ordinarily at the farther end of 
 the run of beds. It should be high, in order to 
 secure a good draft. If the run of beds is long, 
 there should be a rise in the underlying pipe of at 
 least one foot in twenty -five. The greater the rise 
 in this pipe, the more perfect will be the draft. 
 If the runs are not too long, the underlying pipe 
 may return underneath the beds and enter a 
 chimney directly over the back end of the fur- 
 nace, and such a chimney, being warmed from the 
 furnace, will ordinarilj^ have an excellent draft. 
 The underlying pipe should occupj- a free space 
 or pit beneath the beds, and wheuever it lies near 
 to the floor of the bed or is very hot, it should be 
 covered with asbestos cloth. While such flue- 
 heated hotbeds may be eminently successful, it 
 may nevertheless be said, as a general statement, 
 that whenever such trouble and expense are incurred 
 it is better to make a forcing -house. Full direc- 
 
FLUE -HEATED HOTBEDS 85 
 
 tions for the making and management of forcing- 
 houses may be found in Taft's "Greenhouse Con- 
 struction" and in Bailey's "Forcing -Book." 
 
 Close attention is required in the management 
 of hotbeds, to insure that thej- do not become too 
 hot when the sun comes out suddenly, and to give 
 plenty of fresh air. Ventilation is usually effected 
 by raising the sash at the upper end and letting 
 it rest upon a block. Whenever the temperature 
 is above freezing point, it is generally advisable 
 to take the sash off part way, as shown in the 
 central portions of Fig. 78, or even to strip it off 
 entirely, as shown in Fig. 76. Care should be 
 taken not to water the plants at nightfall, espe- 
 cially in dull and cold weather, but to give them 
 water in the morning, when the sun will soon 
 bring the temperature up to its normal state. 
 
 The most satisfactory material for use in hotbed 
 and coldframe sash is double- thick, second-quality 
 glass ; and panes which are twelve inches wide 
 are ordinarily wide enough, and suffer compara- 
 tively little in breakage. For coldframes, how- 
 ever, various oiled papers and water -proof cloths 
 may be used, especially for plants which are 
 started little in advance of the opening of the 
 season. When these materials are used, it is not 
 necessary to have expensive sash, but rectangular 
 frames are made from strips of pine seven -eighths 
 inch thick and two and one -half inches wide, 
 halved together at the corners and each corner 
 
86 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 reinforced by a square carriage -corner, such as is 
 used by carriage -makers to secure the corners of 
 buggy boxes. These corners can be bought by 
 the pound at hardware stores. 
 
 Some protection, other than the glass, must be 
 given to hotbeds. They need covering on every 
 cold night, and sometimes during the entire day 
 in very severe weather. Very good material for 
 covering the sash is matting, such as is used for 
 carpeting floors. Old pieces of carpet may also 
 be used. Various hotbed mattings are sold by 
 dealers in gardeners' supplies. Gardeners often 
 make mats of rye straw. Such mats are thick and 
 durable, and are rolled up in the morning, as 
 shown in Fig. 78. There are various methods of 
 making these straw mats, but Fig. 88 illustrates 
 one of the best. A frame is made after the man- 
 ner of a saw-horse, with a double top, and tarred 
 or marline twine is used for securing the strands 
 of straw. It is customary to use six runs of this 
 warp. Twelve spools of string are provided, six 
 hanging upon either side. Some persons wind 
 the cord upon two twenty -penny nails, as shown 
 in the figure, these nails being held together at 
 one end by wire which is secured in notches filed 
 into them. The other ends of the spikes are free, 
 and allow the string to be caught between them, 
 thus preventing the balls from unwinding as they 
 hang upon the frame. Two wisps of straight rye 
 straw are secured and laid upon the frame, with 
 
MATS FOR HOTBEDS 87 
 
 the butt ends outward aud the heads overlapping. 
 Two opposite spools are then brought up and a 
 hard knot is tied at each point. The projecting 
 butts of the straw are then cut off with a hatchet, 
 and the mat is allowed to drop through to receive 
 the next pair of wisps. In making these mats, 
 
 Making straw mats. 
 
 it is essential that the rj^e contains no ripe grain; 
 otherwise it attracts the mice. It is best to 
 grow rye for this especial purpose, and to cut_it 
 before the grain is in the milk, so that the straw 
 does not need to be threshed. 
 
 In addition to these covering's of straw or mat- 
 
88 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 ting, it is sometimes necessary to provide board 
 shutters to protect the beds, especially if the 
 plants are started very early in the season. These 
 shutters are made of half -inch or five -eighths inch 
 pine lumber, and are the same size as the sash — 
 three by six feet. They may be placed upon the 
 sash underneath the matting, or they may be used 
 above the matting. In some cases they are used 
 without any matting. 
 
 In the growing of plants in hotbeds, every effort 
 should be made to prevent the plants from grow- 
 ing spindling, or becoming "drawn." To make 
 stocky plants, it is necessary to give room to 
 each plant, to be sure that the distance from 
 the plants to the glass is not great, not to 
 provide too much water in dull and cold wea- 
 ther, and especially to give abundance of air. 
 
 INSECTS AND DISEASES 
 
 The insects and diseases which attack garden 
 plants are legion ; and yet, for the most part, they 
 are not very difficult to combat if one is timely 
 and thorough in his operations. These difficulties 
 may be divided into three great categories : the 
 injuries wrought by insects ; the injuries of para- 
 sitic fungi; the various types of so-called consti- 
 tutional diseases, many of which are caused by 
 germs or microbes. 
 
 Insect injuries are easily recognized. The dis- 
 eases caused by parasitic fungi are usually desig- 
 
PARASITIC FUNGI 
 
 89 
 
 nated by distinct marks or spots upon the leaves 
 or stems, and the gradual weakening or death of 
 the part ; and, in many cases, the leaves di'op 
 bodil}'. For the most part, these spots upon the 
 leaves or stems develop sooner or later a mildew- 
 like or rusty appearance, which is due to the de- 
 velopment of the spores or fruiting bodies. Fig. 
 89 illustrates the ravages of one of the parasitic 
 
 89. Work of shot-hole fungus of plum. 
 
 fungi, the shot -hole fungus of the plum. Each 
 spot upon the leaf probably represents a distinct 
 attack of the fungus, and in this particular dis- 
 ease these injured parts of tissue are liable to fall 
 out, leaving holes in the leaf. Plum leaves which 
 are attacked early in the season by this disease 
 usually drop prematurely ; but sometimes the 
 leaves persist, being riddled by holes at the close 
 of the season. Fig. 90 is the rust of the holly- 
 
90 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 hock. In this case the pustules of the fungus 
 are very definite upon the under side of the leaf, 
 and each pustule, as in the case of the plum dis- 
 ease, may represent a distinct attack of fungus. 
 The constitutional and bacterial diseases usually 
 affect the whole plant, or at least large portions of 
 
 Hollyhock rust. Under side of leaf. 
 
 it ; and the seat of attack is commonly not so 
 much in the individual leaves as in the stems, the 
 sources of food suppl}^ being thereby cut off from 
 the foliage. The symptoms of this class of dis- 
 eases are general weakening of plant when the dis- 
 ease affects the plant as a whole or when it attacks 
 large branches ; or sometimes the leaves shrivel 
 
ROOT -GALLS 91 
 
 and die about the edges or in large irregular dis- 
 colored spots, but without the distinct pustular 
 marks of the parasitic fungi. There is a general 
 tendency for the foliage upon plants affected with 
 such diseases to shrivel and to hang upon the stem 
 for a time. One of the best illustrations of this 
 type of disease is the pear-blight. 
 
 Still another class of diseases is characterized by 
 galls upon the roots. The galls upon greenhouse 
 plants, and upon outdoor plants in the southern 
 states, are usually caused by a true worm or 
 nematode, and the onl}- complete remed}' for these 
 is to freeze the soil. In glass houses there need 
 be no injury from these galls if the gardener is 
 careful to use no soil except that which has been 
 thoroughly frozen. Nematode galls are not known 
 to occur permanently in the northern states where 
 the ground freezes deep. There is another type of 
 root- gall, however, illustrated in Fig. 91, which 
 is coming to be common throughout the northern 
 states, and the cause of which is unknown. It is 
 probable that this disease propagates itself in the 
 stock, even if the galls are all removed before the 
 plant is set, although this point is not yet 
 thoroughly determined. It is supposed by many 
 careful observers, also, that land in which root- 
 galls have been produced is unsafe for the setting 
 of plants which are subject to the injury. The 
 best advice which can now be given in regard to 
 this difficulty is to set no plants which have galls 
 
91. Root-gall on raspberry. 
 
 92. Canker-wor 
 
 111. 
 
INSECT INJURIES 
 
 93 
 
 on them, and to devote land in which galls have 
 been found to some annual crop for three or four 
 
 years, until the 
 germs of the dis- 
 ease may be sup- 
 
 93. Box for protecting plants 
 from insects. 
 
 94. Protecting from 
 cut-worms. 
 
 , posed to be eliminated. These galls are common 
 upon woody plants, especially raspberries and 
 blackberries and the fruit trees. 
 
 Of obvious insect injuries, there are two general 
 types, — those wrought by insects which bite or 
 chew their food, as the ordinary beetles and 
 worms, and those wrought hj insects which punc- 
 ture the surface of the plant and derive their food 
 by suction, as scale-insects and plant-lice. The 
 canker-worm (Fig. 92) is a notable example of 
 the former class, and all these insects are readily 
 dispatched by the application of poison to the 
 foliage. It is apparent, however, that insects 
 which suck the juice of the plant are not poisoned 
 
94 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 by any liquid which may be applied to the surface. 
 They may be killed by various materials which act 
 upon them externally, as the soap washes, kero- 
 sene emulsions, and the like. 
 
 The first and best means of averting trouble 
 from insects and fungi is to prevent their attacks. 
 It is often advisable to plant only those species or 
 varieties which are least subject to serious injury. 
 If a garden is kept clean of rubbish and all places 
 in which the insects can hibernate and the fungi 
 can propagate, verj' much will be accomplished 
 towards keeping the plantation in health. All 
 fallen leaves from plants which have been attacked 
 by fungi should be raked up and burned, and in 
 the fall all diseased wood should be cut out and 
 destroj-ed. In the case of small plants which are 
 attacked by large insects, hand-picking is the most 
 etficient means of riddance. There are also va- 
 rious ways of protecting the plants from the 
 attacks of insects. One of the best is to cover the 
 plants with fine mosquito-netting or to grow them 
 in hand frames, or to use a wire -covered box like 
 that shown in Fig. 93. In growing plants under 
 such covers, care must be taken that the plants are 
 not kept too close or confined ; and in cases in 
 which the insects hibernate in the soil, these boxes, 
 by keeping the soil warm, may cause the insects to 
 hatch all the sooner. In most cases, however, these 
 covers are very efficient, especially for keeping the 
 striped bugs off young plants of melons and 
 
CUT -WORMS 
 
 95 
 
 cucumbers. Cut -worms may be kept away from 
 plants by placing sheets of tin or of heavy glazed 
 paper about the stem of the plant, as shown in 
 Fig. 94. Climbing cut- worms are kept off young 
 
 95. Protecting trees 
 from cut-worms. 
 
 96. Showing methods of cut- 
 ting paper to protect plants from 
 maggots. 
 
 trees by the means as shown in Fig. 95; or a roll 
 of cotton may be placed about the trunk of the 
 tree, a string being tied upon the lower edge of 
 the roll and the upper edge of the cotton turned 
 down like the top of a boot. The insects cannot 
 crawl over this obstruction. 
 
96 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 The maggots which attack the roots of cab- 
 bages and cauliflowers may be kept from the 
 plant by pieces of tarred paper, which are placed 
 close about the stem upon the surface of the 
 ground. Fig. 96 illustrates a hexagon of paper, 
 and also shows a tool which is used for cutting 
 it. This means of preventing the attacks of the 
 cabbage maggot is described in detail by Pro- 
 fessor Goff : 
 
 "The cards are cut in a hexagonal form, in 
 order to better economize the material, and a 
 thinner grade of tarred paper than the ordinary 
 roofing felt is used, as it is not only cheaper, 
 but being more flexible, the cards made from 
 it are more readily placed about the plant with- 
 out being torn. The blade of the tool, which 
 should be made by an expert blacksmith, is 
 formed from a band of steel, bent in the form 
 of a half hexagon, and then taking an acute 
 angle, reaches nearly to the center, as shown in 
 Fig. 96. The part making the star- shaped cut 
 is formed from a separate piece of steel, so at- 
 tached to the handle as to make a close joint 
 with the blade. The latter is beveled from the 
 outside all around, so that by removing the part 
 making the star -shaped cut, the edge may be 
 ground on a grindstone. It is important that 
 the angles in the blade be made perfect, and 
 that its outline represents an exact half hexagon. 
 To use the tool, place the tarred paper on the 
 
CABBAGE MAGGOTS 97 
 
 end of a section of a log or piece of timber and 
 first cut the lower edge into notches, as indi- 
 cated at a, Fig. 96, using onlj- one angle of the 
 tool. Then commence at the left side, and place 
 the blade as indicated bj^ the dotted lines, and 
 strike at the end of the handle with a light mal- 
 let, and a complete card is made. Continue in 
 this manner across the paper. The first cut of 
 every alternate course will make an imperfect 
 card, and the last cut in any course may be 
 imperfect, but the other cuts will make perfect 
 cards if the tool is correctly made, and properly 
 used. The cards should be placed about the 
 plants at the time of transplanting. To place 
 the card bend it slightly, to open the slit, then 
 slip it on to the center, the stem entering the 
 slit, after which spread the card out flat, and 
 press the points formed by the star- shaped cut 
 snugly around the stem." 
 
 An efficient means of destroying insects in 
 glass houses is by fumigating with various kinds 
 of smoke or vapors. The best material to use 
 for general purposes is some form of tobacco or 
 tobacco compounds. The old method of fumi- 
 gating with tobacco is to slowly burn slightly 
 dampened tobacco stems in a kettle or scuttle, 
 allowing the house to be filled with the pungent 
 smoke. Lately, however, a fluid extract of to- 
 bacco has been brought into use, which is evap- 
 orated in the house by dropping red-hot iron into 
 
98 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 the liquid, and which is very destructive to insect 
 life while it does not injure the plants. Fumi- 
 gation may be practiced even in hotbeds and cold- 
 frames, as shown in Fig. 97, which illustrates a 
 
 97. Fumigating a hotbed. 
 
 fumigater with the outlet pipe running into the 
 frame and ^ith di-aft supplied by means of a 
 hand bellows. 
 
 The most efficient means of destroying insects 
 and fungi, however, is by the use of various 
 sprays. The two general types of insecticides 
 have already been mentioned — those which kill by 
 poisoning, and those which kill by destroying the 
 body of the insect. Of the former, there are 
 three materials in common use — Paris green, 
 London purple and hellebore.* Of the latter, 
 
 *Paris Green.— Paris green, 1 pound; water, 200-300 gallons. If this 
 mixture is to be used upon peach trees, 1 pound of quicklime should be 
 added. Repeated applications will injui*e most foliage, unless lime is 
 added. Paris green and Bordeaux mixture can be applied together with 
 perfect safety. Use at the rate of 4 ounces of the arsenites to 50 gallons 
 of the mixture. The action of neither is weakened, and the Paris green 
 loses all caustic properties. For insects which chew. 
 
 London Purple.— This is used in the same proportion as Paris green, 
 but as it is more caustic it should he applied with two or three times its 
 weight of lime, or with the Bordeaux mixture. The composition of Lon- 
 
SPRAYING 99 
 
 the kerosene emulsion* is the most generally used. 
 Sprays for fungi depend for their efficiency upon 
 some form of copper or sulfur, or both. For 
 surface mildews, as cucumber mildew, dusting 
 flowers of sulfur upon the foliage is ample pro- 
 tection. In most cases, however, it is necessary 
 to apply the materials in liquid form, because 
 they can be more thoroughly and economically 
 distributed, and they adhere to the foliage better. 
 The best general fungicide is the Bordeaux mix- 
 ture, t It is generally, however, not advisable to 
 
 don purple is exceedingly variable, and unless good reasons exist for sup- 
 posing that it contains as much arsenic as 'Paris green, use the latter 
 poison. Do not use London purple on peach or plum trees unless con- 
 siderable lime is added. For insects which chew. 
 
 Hellebore.— Fresh white hellebore, 1 ounce; water, 3 gallons. Apply 
 when thoroughly mixed. Tliis poison is not so energetic as the arsenites, 
 and may be used a short time before the sprayed portions are harvested. 
 For insects which chew. 
 
 *Kerosene Emulsion. — Hard soap, K pound; boiling water, 1 gallon; 
 kerosene, 2 gallons. Dissolve the soap in the water, add the kerosene, 
 and churn with a pump for 5 to 10 minutes. Dilute 10 to 25 times before 
 applying. Use strong emulsion, diluted four times in winter, for all 
 scale insects. For insects which suck, as plant-lice, mealy bugs, red 
 spider, thrips, bark-lice or scale. Cabbage-worms, currant-worms, 
 and all insects which have soft bodies, can also be successfully treated. 
 
 fBORDEAUX Mixture.— Copper sulfate, 6 pounds; quicklime, 4 
 pounds; water, 40 to 50 gallons. Dissolve the copper sulfate by put- 
 ting it in a bag of coarse cloth and hanging this in a vessel holding at 
 least four gallons, so that it is just covered by the water. Use an earthen 
 or wooden vessel. Slake the lime in an equal amount of water. Then 
 mix the two and add enough water to make 40 gallons. It is then 
 ready for immediate tise, but will keep for some time. If the mixture is 
 to be used on peach foliage, it is advisable to add an extra pound of lime 
 to the above formula. When applied to such plants as carnations or 
 cabbages, it will adhere better if a pound of hard soap is dissolved in 
 hot water and added to the mixture. For rots, molds, mildews, and 
 all fungous diseases. 
 
100 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 use the Bordeaux mixture upon ornamental plants 
 because it discolors the foliage and makes th( 
 plants look very untidy. In such cases it is bes 
 to use the ammoniacal copper solution,* whicl 
 leaves no stain upon the plant. In all spray in < 
 operations, it is especially important that the ap 
 plications be made the very moment the insect o 
 disease is discovered, or in the case of fungou 
 diseases, if one is expecting- an attack, it is we] 
 to make an application of Bordeaux mixture evei 
 before the disease appears. When the fungu 
 once gets inside the plant tissue it is almost im 
 possible to destroy it, inasmuch as fungicides ac 
 upon these deep-seated fungi very largely by pre 
 venting their fruiting and their further spread o: 
 the surface of the leaf. For ordinary conditions 
 from two to four sprayings are necessarj' to dis 
 patch the enemy. 
 
 Persons who desire to post themselves thoi 
 oughly on spraying should procure Lodeman' 
 "Spraying of Plants," and then consult the recen 
 bulletins of the experiment stations. Spraying i 
 relation to fruit -culture is discussed at som 
 length in "Principles of Fruit- Growing." 
 
 There are many kinds of machines and device 
 for the application of sprays to plants. Fc 
 
 *Ammoniacal Copper Carbonate.— Copper carbonate, 1 ounce; ai 
 monia, 1 volume 26° Beaume, % volumes water (euougli to dissor 
 the copper) ; water, 9 gallons. The copper carbonate is best dissolved : 
 large bottles, where it will keep indefinitely, and it should be diluted wil 
 water as required. For the same purposes as Bordeaux mixture. 
 
SPRAYING PUMPS 
 
 101 
 
 houses and a few individual specimens, the spray 
 may be applied with a whisk, or with a common 
 garden syringe. If one has fifty or a hundred 
 plants to treat, however, it is best to have some 
 kind of bucket pump like those shown in Fig. 98. 
 Upon a lawn or in a small garden, a tank upon 
 wheels (Figs. 99, 100, 101) is handy and efficient. 
 In such cases, or even for larger areas, some of 
 the knapsack pumps (Fig. 102) are very desirable. 
 These machines are always serviceable, because the 
 operator stands so near to his work ; but they 
 carry a comparativelj" small amount of liquid and 
 do not throw it rapidly, and they are, therefore, 
 expensive when much work is to be done. Yet, 
 in ordinary home 
 grounds, the knap- 
 sack pump is 
 
 Bucket pumps 
 
 A handy garden sprayer. 
 
 one of the most efficient and practicable of all the 
 spraying devices. For large areas, as for orchards 
 and fields, a barrel pump mounted upon a wagon 
 
102 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 or a stone -boat is best. Common types of barrel 
 pumps are shown in Fig. 103. There are many 
 patterns of spraying machines, and the intending 
 
 100. Barrow outfit. 
 
 purchaser should send for catalogues to the various 
 manufacturers. The addresses maj^ be found in 
 the advertising pages of rural papers. 
 
 As to nozzles for spraying, it may be said that 
 there is no one pattern which is best for all pur- 
 poses. For work at short range, some of the 
 nozzles of the Cyclone type, as shown in Fig. 104, 
 are to be recommended; but for longer range and 
 for high trees, and especially for barrel pumps, a 
 nozzle which throws more liquid is desirable. One 
 of the best of these is shown in Fig. 105, but 
 nearly every manufacturer of pumps has some 
 
TREE GUARDS 103 
 
 particular type of nozzle which he sells with his 
 machinery. 
 
 PROTECTING PLANTS FROM ANIMALS 
 
 Along roadsides and other exposed places it is 
 often necessary to protect newly set trees from 
 horses and the encroachment of vehicles. There 
 are various kinds of tree guards. The best types 
 are those which are more or less open, so as to 
 allow the free passage of air, and which are far 
 enough removed from the body of the tree that 
 the trunk may expand without difficult3\ If the 
 tree guards are yqyj tight they may shade the 
 trunk so much that the tree may suffer when the 
 guard is removed. It 
 is important that the 
 guard does not fill with 
 litter in which insects 
 may harbor. As soon 
 as the tree is old enough 
 to escape injury, the 
 guards should be re- 
 moved. A very good 
 guard, made of laths 
 held together with three 
 strips of band-iron, and ^^i- ^^^^^^^^ ^^''^^ ^"*^*- 
 secured to iron posts, is shown in Fig. 106. Fig. 
 107 shows a guard made by winding fencing 
 wire upon three posts or stakes. When there is 
 likely to be danger from too great shading of 
 
104 
 
 iGENERAL ADVICE 
 
 the trunk, this latter form of guard is one of the 
 best. 
 
 Of course hitching posts should be provided, 
 wherever horses are to stand, to obviate the temp- 
 
 102. Knapsack pumps. — 1, Galloway knapsack ; 2, Garfield ; 
 
 3, Deming kerosene emulsion knapsack ; 4, Eclipse ; 
 
 5, Excelsior. 
 
 tation of hitching to trees. Fig. 108, however, 
 shows a very good device when a hitching post is 
 not wanted. A strong stick, four or five feet 
 long, is secured to the tree by a staple and at the 
 lower end of the stick is a short chain with a snap 
 
MICE AND RABBITS 
 
 105 
 
 in the end. The snap is secured to the bridle, and 
 the horse is not able to reach the tree. 
 
 Trees and bushes are often seriously injured by 
 the gnawing" of mice and rabbits. The best pre- 
 
 103. Barrel outfits.— 
 
 1, Empire ; 2, Eclipse ; 
 
 3, Pomona. 
 
 ventive is not to have the vermin. If there are 
 no places in which rabbits and mice can burrow 
 and breed, there will be little difficulty. At the 
 approach of winter, if mice are feared, the dry 
 litter should be removed from about the bases of 
 the trees, or it should be packed down very firm, 
 so that the mice cannot nest in it. If the rodents 
 
106 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 are very abundant, it may be advisable to wrap 
 fine wire netting about the base of the tree. 
 Various washes may be put upon the tree to keep 
 rabbits away, a number of which may be found 
 in the "Horticulturist's Rule -Book." A boy who 
 is fond of trapping or hunting will ordinarily 
 solve the rabbit difficulty. Rags tied upon sticks 
 which are placed at intervals about the plantation 
 will often frighten rabbits away. 
 
 Trees which are girdled by mice should be 
 wrapped up as soon as discovered, so that the 
 
 104. Cyclone and Vermorel nozzles. 
 
 wood shall not become too dry. When warm 
 weather approaches, shave off the edges of the 
 girdle so that the healing tissue may grow freely, 
 smear the whole surface with grafting -wax, or 
 with clay, and bind the whole wound with strong 
 cloths. Even though the tree is completely girdled 
 for a distance of three or four inches, it may gen- 
 erally be saved by this treatment, unless the in- 
 jury extends into the wood. The sap from the 
 roots rises through the soft wood and not between 
 the bark and the wood, as commonly supposed. 
 When this sap has reached the foliage, it is elabo- 
 rated and changed into plant -food, and this food 
 
105. McGowen 
 nozzle. 
 
 106. Lath tree 
 guard. 
 
 107. Wire-and- 
 post tree guard. 
 
108 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 is distributed throughout the plant, the path of 
 transfer being in the inner layers of bark. This 
 food material, being distributed back to the girdle, 
 will generally heal over the wound if the wood is 
 not allowed to become dry. In some cases, how- 
 ever, it is necessary to join the bark above and 
 
 7 
 
 108. Safe method of hitching- 
 a horse to a tree. 
 
 109. Common stake 
 label. 
 
 below the girdle by means of cions, which are 
 whittled to a wedge -shape on either end, and 
 inserted underneath the two edges of the bark. 
 The ends of the cions and the edges of the wound 
 are held by a bandage of cloth, and the whole 
 work is protected by melted grafting -wax poured 
 upon it.* 
 
 *A good grafting-wax is made as follows : Into a kettle place one part 
 by weight of tallow, two parts of beeswax, four parts of rosin. When 
 completely melted, pour into a tub or pail of cold water, then work it with 
 the hands (which should be greased) until it develops a grain and 
 becomes the color of taffy candy. The whole question of the propagation 
 of plants is discussed in "The Nursery-Book." 
 
LABELS AND MAPS 
 
 109 
 
 KEEPING RECORDS OF THE PLANTATION 
 
 If one has a large and valuable collection of 
 fruit or ornamental plants, it is desirable that he 
 have some permanent record of them. The most 
 satisfactory method is to label the plants, and 
 then to make a chart or map upon which the 
 various plants are indicated in their proper posi- 
 
 ■!3 
 
 
 110. A good stake label. 
 
 111. Metal stake label. 
 
 tions. The labels are always liable to be lost and 
 to become illegible, and they are often mis- 
 placed by careless workmen or mischievous boys. 
 For vegetables, annuals and other temporary 
 plants, the best labels are simple stakes, like that 
 shown in Fig. 109. Garden stakes may be bought 
 of label manufacturers, a foot long, an inch wide 
 and three -eighths inch thick, for from three to five 
 
no 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 dollars a thousand. These take a soft pencil very 
 readily, and if the labels are pulled up in the fall, 
 and stored in a dry place, they will last two 
 
 112. Zinc tallies. 
 
 113. Common zinc tally, 
 
 or three years. For more permanent herba- 
 ceous plants, as rhubarb and asparagus, or even 
 for bushes, a stake which is sawed from clear 
 pine or cypress, eighteen inches long, three inches 
 wide and an inch or more thick, affords a most 
 excellent label. The lower end of the stake is 
 sawed to a point, and is dipped in coal tar or 
 creosote, or other preservative. The top of the 
 stake is painted white, and the legend is written 
 with a large and soft pencil. When the writ- 
 ing becomes illegible or the stake is needed for 
 other plants, a shaving is taken off the face of 
 the label with a plane, a fresh coat of paint 
 added, and the label is as good as ever. These 
 labels are strong enough to withstand shocks from 
 whiffletrees and tools, and should last ten years. 
 
LABELS 
 
 111 
 
 Whenever a legend is written with a lead pencil, 
 it is advisable to use the pencil when the paint 
 (which should be white lead) is still fresh or soft. 
 Fig. 110 shows a very good device for preserving 
 the writing upon the face of the label. A block 
 of wood is secured to the label by means of a 
 screw, covering the legend completely and pro- 
 tecting it from the weather. 
 
 If more ornamental stake labels are desired, 
 there are various types which can be bought in 
 the market, or one can be made after the fashion 
 of Fig. 111. This is a zinc plate, which can be 
 
 114. Nurseryman's wooden 
 label. 
 
 115. 
 
 Cornell tree 
 label. 
 
 painted black and the name written with white 
 paint. Many persons, however, prefer to paint 
 the zinc white, and write or stamp the label with 
 
112 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 black ink or black type. Two strong wire legs 
 are soldered to the label, and these prevent it 
 from turning around. These labels are, of course, 
 much more expensive than the ordinary stake 
 labels, and are usually not so satisfactory. 
 
 For labeling trees, various kinds of zinc tallies 
 are in common use, as shown in Figs. 112 and 
 113. Fresh zinc takes a lead pencil readil}^, and 
 the writing often becomes more legible as it be- 
 comes older, and it will generally last three or 
 four years. These labels are attached either by 
 wires, as a, b, Fig. 112, or they are wound about 
 the limb as shown in c, d and e, in Fig. 112. The 
 type of zinc label most in use is a simple strip of 
 zinc, as shown in Fig. 113, wrapped about the 
 limb. The metal is so flexible that it expands 
 readily with the growth of the limb. While these 
 zinc labels are durable, they are very inconspicuous 
 because of th^ir neutral color, and it is often 
 difficult to find them in dense masses of foliage. 
 The common wooden label of the nurserymen 
 (Fig. 114) is perhaps as useful as any for general 
 purposes. If the label has had a light coat of 
 thin white lead, and the legend has been made 
 with a soft lead pencil, the writing should be 
 legible for four or five years. Fig. 115 shows 
 another type of label which is more durable, 
 since the wire is stiff and large, and is secured 
 around the limb by means of pincers. The large 
 loop allows the limb to expand, and the stiff wire 
 
TREE LABELS 
 
 113 
 
 prevents the misplacing of the label by winds and 
 workmen. The tally itself is what is known as 
 the package label of the nurserymen, being six 
 inches long, one and one -fourth inches wide, and 
 costing (painted) less than one and one -half dol- 
 lars a thousand. The legend is made with a lead 
 
 116. Serviceable tree label. 
 
 117. Zinc tree label. 
 
 pencil when the paint is fresh, and sometimes the 
 label is dipped in thin white lead after the writing 
 is made, so that the paint covers the writing with 
 a very thin protecting coat. A similar label is 
 shown in Fig. 116, which has a large wire loop, 
 with a coil to allow the expansion of the limb. 
 
114 
 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 The tallies of this type of label are often made 
 of glass or porcelain with the name indelibly 
 printed in them. Fig. 117 shows a zinc tally, 
 which is secured to the tree by means of a sharp 
 and pointed wire which is driven into the wood. 
 Some prefer to have two arms to this wire, driv- 
 ing one point upon either side of the tree. If 
 galvanized wire is used, these labels will last for 
 many years. 
 
 It is very important, when adjusting labels to 
 trees, to be sure that the wire is not twisted tight 
 against the wood. Fig. 118 shows 
 the injury which is likely to result 
 from label wires. When a tree is 
 constricted or girdled, it is very 
 liable to be broken off by winds. 
 It should be a rule to attach the 
 label to a limb of minor impor- 
 tance, so that if the wire should 
 injure the part, the loss will not 
 When the label, Fig. 
 114, is applied, only the tips of the 
 wire should be twisted together, leaving a large 
 loop for the expansion of the limb. 
 
 118. Stem 
 girdled by the be SCriouS. 
 label wire. 
 
 ENRICHING TEE LAND. 
 
 There are two coordinate problems concerned in 
 the fertilizing of the land: the direct addition of 
 plant -food, and the improvement of the physical 
 texture of the soil. The latter ofi&ce is often the 
 
GREEN MANURES 115 
 
 more important. Lands which, on the one hand, 
 are very hard and solid, with a tendency to bake, 
 and, upon the other, those which are loose and 
 leachy, are very greatly benefited by the addition 
 of organic matter. When this organic matter, as 
 animal and plant remains, decays and becomes 
 thoroughly incorporated with the soil, it forms 
 what is called humus. The addition of this 
 humus to the land makes it mellow, friable, 
 retentive of moisture, and promotes the general 
 chemical activities of the soil. It also puts the 
 soil in the best physical condition for the comfort 
 and well-being of the plants. Very many of the 
 lands which are said to be exhausted of plant- 
 food still contain enough potash, phosphoric acid 
 and lime, and other fertilizing elements, to raise 
 good crops ; but they have been greatly injured 
 in their physical texture by long -continued crop- 
 ping, injudicious tillage, and the withholding of 
 vegetable matter. A part of the marked results 
 which are obtained from the plowing under of 
 clover is due to the mere addition of vegetable 
 matter to the soil, wholly aside from the addition 
 of fertilizing material; and this is emphatically 
 true of clover because its deep -growing roots 
 penetrate and break up the subsoil. Muck and 
 leaf -mold are often very useful in ameliorating 
 either very hard or very loose lands. Excellent 
 humous material may be constantly at hand if 
 the leaves, garden refuse and some of the manure 
 
116 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 be piled and composted. If the pile is turned 
 several times a year, the material becomes fine and 
 uniform in texture. 
 
 The various questions associated with the fer- 
 tilizing of the land are too large to be considered 
 in detail here. Persons who desire to familiarize 
 themselves with the subject should consult Rob- 
 erts' "Fertility of the Land" and King's "Soil:" 
 and if it is desired to make application of the 
 knowledge directly to the growing of fruit, they 
 should consult Bailey's "Principles of Fruit- 
 Gr owing." 
 
 It may be said, however, that, as a rule, most 
 lands contain all the elements of plant -food in 
 sufficient quantities except potash, phosphoric acid 
 and nitrogen. In many cases, lime is very bene- 
 ficial to land, usually because it corrects acidity 
 of the soil and has a mechanical effect in pulver- 
 izing and flocculating clay and in cementing sands, 
 rather than in the direct addition of plant -food. 
 The chief sources of commercial potash are mu- 
 riate of potash, sulfate of potash and wood ashes. 
 For general purposes, the muriate of potash is 
 now recommended, because it is comparatively 
 cheap and the composition is uniform. A normal 
 application of muriate of potash is from two 
 hundred to three [hundred pounds to the acre ; but 
 on some garden lands, where the greatest results 
 are demanded, sometimes as much as twice this 
 application may be made. Phosphoric acid is got 
 
FERTILIZERS 117 
 
 in dissolved South Carolina and Florida rock and 
 in various bone preparations. These materials 
 are applied at the rate of two hundred to four 
 hundred pounds to the acre. Commercial nitro- 
 gen is chiefly obtained in the form of animal ref- 
 use, as blood and tankage, and in nitrate of soda. 
 It is more likely to be lost by leaching through 
 the land than the mineral substances are, espe- 
 cially if the land lacks humus. Nitrate of soda is 
 very soluble, and should be applied in small quan- 
 tities at intervals. Nitrogen, being the element 
 which is mostly conducive to vegetative growth, 
 tends to delay the season of maturity if applied 
 late in the season. One hundred to three hundred 
 pounds of nitrate of soda may be applied to the 
 acre, but it is ordinarily better to make two or 
 three applications at intervals of three to six 
 weeks. Fertilizing materials may be applied either 
 in fall or spring; but in the case of nitrate of 
 soda, it is usually better not to apply in the fall 
 unless the land has plenty of humus to prevent 
 leaching, or on plants which start very early in 
 the spring. The material is sown broadcast, or it 
 may be scattered lightly in furrows underneath the 
 seeds, and then covered with dirt. If sown broad- 
 cast, it may be applied either after the seeds are 
 sown or before. It is usually better to apply it 
 before, for although the rains carry it down, never- 
 theless the upward movement of water during the 
 dry weather of the summer tends to bring it 
 
118 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 back to the surface. It is important that large 
 lumps of fertilizer, especially muriate of potash 
 and nitrate of soda, do not fall near the crowns 
 of the plants; otherwise the plants may be seri- 
 ously injured. It is a general principle, also, that 
 it is better to apply sparingly of fertilizers and 
 liberally of tillage. The tendency is to make fer- 
 tilizers do penance for the sins of neglect, but the 
 results do not often meet one's expectations. 
 
 If one has only a small garden or a home yard, 
 it will ordinarily not pay him to buy the chemicals 
 separately, as recommended above, but he can buy 
 some complete fertilizer which is sold under a 
 trademark or brand, and which has a guaranteed 
 analysis. If one is raising plants chiefly for their 
 foliage, as rhubarb and ornamental bushes, he 
 should select a fertilizer comparatively rich in 
 nitrogen ; but if he desires chiefly fruit and 
 flowers, the mineral elements, as potash, and 
 phosphoric acid, should be high. If one uses the 
 chemicals, it is not necessary that they be mixed 
 before application; in fact, it is usually better 
 not to mix them, because some plants and some 
 soils need more of one element than of another. 
 Just what materials, and how much, different soils 
 and plants require, must be determined by the 
 grower himself by observation and experiment, 
 but the above hints may suggest the problems to 
 be considered. 
 
 Muriate of potash costs forty dollars and up- 
 
FERTILIZERS 119 
 
 wards per ton, sulfate about forty -eight dollars, 
 dissolved boneblack about twenty -four dollars, 
 ground bone about thirty dollars, kainit about 
 thirteen dollars, and nitrate of soda about two and 
 one-fourth cents per pound. These prices vary, of 
 course, with the composition or mechanical condi- 
 tion of the materials. The average composition 
 of unleached wood ashes in the market is about 
 as follows: Potash, 5.25 per cent; phosphoric acid, 
 1.70 per cent; lime, 34 per cent; magnesia, 3.40 
 per cent. The average composition of kainit is 
 13.54 per cent potash, 1.15 per cent lime. The 
 composition of sylvinit (which is said to be known 
 as sulfate of potash in some quarters) is about 
 16 per cent of potash, in the form of both 
 muriate and sulfate, mostly the former. The 
 fact that the soil itself is the greatest storehouse 
 of plant -food is shown by the following average 
 of thirty -five analyses of the total content of the 
 first eight inches of surface soils, per acre: 3,521 
 pounds of nitrogen, 4,400 pounds of phosphoric 
 acid, 19,836 pounds of potash. Much of this is 
 unavailable, but the good tillage and green manur- 
 ing which have been recommended tend to un- 
 lock it. 
 
Section II 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 One cannot expect satisfaction in the planting 
 and developing of a home area unless he has a 
 definite conception of what is to be done. This 
 necessarily follows, since the pleasure which one 
 derives from any enterprise depends chiefly upon 
 the definiteness of his ideals and upon his ability 
 to develop them. The home-maker should de- 
 velop his plan before he attempts to develop his 
 place. He should determine the locations of the 
 leading features of the place, and the relative im- 
 portance to be given to the various parts of it, — 
 as of the landscape parts, the ornamental areas, 
 the vegetable garden and the fruit plantations. 
 The details of the planting, however, may be de- 
 termined as the place develops : it is only the 
 structural features and purposes of the place 
 which need to be determined beforehand. The 
 incidental modifications which can be made in the 
 planting from time to time keep the interest alive, 
 and allow the planter to gratify his desire to ex- 
 periment with new plants and new methods. The 
 following discussions may aid the enquirer in for- 
 mulating a conception of a home plot. If it 
 
 (120) 
 
THE LANDSCAPE PICTURE 121 
 
 should happen that any person has read the 
 author's bulletins on " Suggestions for the Plant- 
 ing of Shrubbery," " China Asters," and " Culti- 
 vated Polars," he may recognize some of the 
 sentences in the following pages. 
 
 TEE PICTURE IN THE LANDSCAPE 
 
 The trouble with home grounds is not so much 
 that there is too little planting of trees and shrubs 
 as that this planting is meaningless. Every yard 
 should be a picture. That is, the area should be 
 set off from every other area, and it should have 
 such a character that the observer catches its 
 entire effect and purpose without stopping to 
 analyze its parts. The yard should be one thing, 
 one area, with every feature contributing its part 
 to one strong and homogeneous effect. 
 
 These remarks will become concrete if the 
 reader turns his eye to Figs 119 and 120. The 
 former represents the common type of planting 
 of front yards. The bushes and trees are scat- 
 tered promiscuously over the area. Such a yard 
 has no purpose, no central idea. It shows plainly 
 that the planter had no constructive conception, 
 no grasp of any design, and no appreciation of 
 the fundamental elements of the beauty of land- 
 scape. Its only merit is the fact that trees and 
 shrubs have been planted ; and this, to most 
 minds, comprises the essence and sum of the orna- 
 
122 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 mentatiou of grounds. Every tree and bush is 
 an individual, alone, unattended, disconnected 
 
 ^"B 
 
 ^ '*<ii a # ^ 
 
 119. The common or nursery way of planting. 
 
 from its environments, and therefore meaningless. 
 Such a yard is only a nurseiy . 
 
 The other plan (Fig. 120) is a picture. The 
 eye catches its meaning at once. The central idea 
 is the residence, with a warm and open greensward 
 in front of it. The same trees and bushes which 
 were scattered haphazard over Fig. 119 are massed 
 into a framework to give effectiveness to the pic- 
 ture of home and comfort. This style of planting 
 makes a landscape, even though the area be no 
 larger that a parlor. The other style is simply a 
 collection of curious plants. The one has an 
 instant and abiding pictorial effect, which is rest- 
 ful and satisfying : the observer exclaims, " What 
 a beautiful home this is !" The other piques one's 
 curiosity, obscures the residence, divides and dis- 
 tracts the attention : the observer exclaims, "What 
 excellent lilac bushes are these ! " 
 
 The following sketch, which the author made 
 
THE PICTURE IN THE LANDSCAPE 123 
 
 in a periodical (" Science", Nov. 17, 1893) as a 
 comment upon a discussion of the ' ' picture in the 
 landscape", will still further explain the subject 
 under consideration : 
 
 " The inquiry in a recent issue, into the causes 
 of the unlike impressions which one receives from 
 a given landscape and from a painting of it, 
 seems to me to explain the subject admirably. 
 The correspondent supposes that the reason why 
 the picture appeals to us more than the land- 
 scape does is because the picture is condensed, and 
 the mind becomes acquainted with its entire pur- 
 pose at once, while the landscape is so broad that 
 the individual objects at first fix the attention, and 
 it is only b}^ a process of synthesis that the unity 
 of the landscape finally becomes apparent. This 
 is admirably illustrated in photographs. One of 
 the first surprises which I experienced when I be- 
 
 120. The proper or pictorial type of planting. 
 
 gan the use of the camera was the discovery that 
 very tame scenes become interesting and often 
 
124 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 eveu spirited in the photograph. But there is 
 something more than mere condensation in this 
 vitalizing and beautifying effect of the photograph 
 or the painting. Individual objects are so much 
 reduced that they no longer appeal to us as 
 distinct subjects, and however uncouth they may 
 be in the reality, they make no impression in the 
 picture. The thin and sere sward may appear 
 rather like a closely shaven lawn or a new-mown 
 meadow. And again, the picture sets a limit to 
 the scene ; it frames it, and thereby cuts off all 
 extraneous and confusing or irrelevant landscapes. 
 "All these remarks are enforced in the gesthe- 
 tics of landscape gardening. It is the artist's one 
 desire to make pictures in the landscape. This 
 is done in two ways, — by the form of plantations 
 and by the use of vistas. He will throw his plan- 
 tations into such positions that open and yet more 
 or less conJBned areas of greensward are presented 
 to the observer at various points. This glade-like 
 opening is nearly or quite devoid of small or in- 
 dividual objects, which always destroy the unity 
 of such areas and are meaningless in them- 
 selves. The two sketches illustrate my meaning. 
 The first one (Fig. 119) is a fair diagram of the 
 average front-yard. It is full of individual trees 
 and bushes, or groups, and the eye is carried from 
 object to object, while the entire yard makes no 
 quick appeal to the mind. One is pleased only 
 with the kinds of plants which he sees. The 
 
THE IMPORTANCE OF THE PICTURE 125 
 
 second sketch (Fig. 120) presents a definite area 
 at once to the observer, and the individual plants 
 are of minor importance. Here is a landscape — 
 a picture ; there is a nursery. 
 
 "A vista is a narrow opening or view between 
 plantations to a distant landscape. It cuts up the 
 broad horizon into portions which are readily cog- 
 nizable. It frames portions of the country-side. 
 The verdurous sides of the planting are the sides 
 of the frame ; the foreground is the bottom, and 
 the sky is the top." 
 
 If the reader catches the full meaning of these 
 contrasts, he has acquired the first and most im- 
 portant conception in landscape gardening. The 
 conception will grow upon him day by day ; and 
 if he is of an observing turn of mind, he will find 
 that this simple lesson will revolutionize his habit 
 of thought respecting the planting of grounds and 
 the beauty of landscapes. He will see that a bush 
 or flower-bed which is no part of any general 
 purpose or design — that is, which does not con- 
 tribute to the making of a picture — might better 
 never have been planted. For myself, I had 
 rather have a bare and open pasture than such a 
 yard as that shown in Fig. 119, even though it 
 contained the choicest plants of every land. The 
 pasture would at least be plain and restful and 
 unpretentious. It would be nature -like and 
 sweet. But the yard would be full of effort 
 and fidget. 
 

 a 
 
 o 
 
 si 
 
 Si 
 
 <u 
 73 
 
 a 
 
 el 
 
 a> 
 > 
 
THE MASS VS. THE SPECIMEN 
 
 127 
 
 Reduced to a single expression, all this means 
 that the greatest artistic value in planting lies in 
 the effect of the mass, and not in the individual 
 plant. A mass has the greater value because it 
 presents a much greater range and variety of 
 forms, colors, shades and textures, because it has 
 sufficient extent or dimensions to add structural 
 character to a place, and because its features are 
 so continuous and so well blended that the mind 
 is not distracted bs^ incidental and irrelevant 
 
 ^^^j^.'f!m,^j^' 
 
 122. A nature-planted tangle. 
 
 ideas. A couple of pictures will admirably illus- 
 trate all this. Figs. 121, 122 are pictures of nat- 
 ural copses. The former stretches across a vale, 
 and makes a lawui of the bit of meadow which 
 lies in front of it. The landscape has become 
 so small and so well defined hy this bank of 
 verdure that it has a familiar and personal feel- 
 ing. The great, bare, open meadows are too ill- 
 
128 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 defined and too extended to give any domestic 
 air ; but here is a portion of the meadow set off 
 into an area which one can compass with his 
 affections. 
 
 These masses in Figs. 121, 122, have their 
 own intrinsic merits, as well as their office in de- 
 fining a bit of nature. One is attracted by the 
 carelessness of arrangement, the irregularity of 
 sky-line, the bold bays and promontories, and 
 the infinite play of light and shade. The ob- 
 server is interested in each because it has charac- 
 ter, or features which no other mass in all the 
 world possesses. He knows that the birds build 
 their nests in the tangle, and the rabbits find it 
 a happy covert. 
 
 Now let the reader turn to Fig. 123, which is 
 a picture of an "improved" city yard. Here 
 there is no structural strength to the planting, 
 no defining of the area, no continuous flow of 
 the form and color. Every bush is what ever}^ 
 other one is or may be, and there are hundreds 
 like them in the same town. The birds shun 
 them. Only the bugs find any happiness in 
 them. The place has no fundamental design or 
 idea, no lawn upon which a picture can be con- 
 structed. 
 
 The motive which shears the trees also razes 
 the copse, in order that the gardener or " im- 
 prover" may show his art. Compare Figs. 124 
 and 125. Many persons seem to fear that they 
 
o 
 
 
 t— ' 
 
 l-i 
 
 ^, 
 
 u 
 
 (X> 
 
 -rlJ 
 
 i-S 
 
 (tl 
 
 cc 
 
 ^ 
 
 p 
 
 
 
 p 
 
 o 
 
 tf 
 
 p 
 
 
 5' 
 
 1-8 
 
 
 O 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 n 
 
 tr 
 
 & 
 
 fD 
 
 rr 
 
 <1 
 
 ■^ 
 
 (D 
 
 
 i-i 
 
 1^- 
 
 <! 
 
 B 
 
 ^ 
 
 03 
 
 o 
 
 i-S 
 
 B 
 
 ^ tr 
 P t". 
 
 %-< 
 
 a, p 
 
 pr 
 
130 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 will never be known to the world unless they ex- 
 pend a great amount of muscle or do something 
 
 124. A rill and a picture. 
 
 emphatic or spectacular ; and their fears are 
 usually well founded. 
 
 If a landscape is a picture, it must have a 
 
IMPORTANCE OP THE SWARD 
 
 131 
 
 canvas. This canvas is the greensward. Upon 
 this, the artist paints with tree and bush and 
 flower, as the painter does ui^on his canvas with 
 brush and pigments. The opportunity for artistic 
 composition and design is nowhere so great as 
 in the landscape garden, because no other art has 
 
 
 iiir-' ■ ' •'mmii'tllii, iiiii'- 
 
 
 ^»*« 
 -^1 
 
 c 
 
 The same rill "improved." Prom an actual example. 
 
 such a limitless field for the expression of its 
 emotions. It is not strange, if this be true, that 
 there have been few great landscape gardeners, 
 and that, falling short of art, the landscape gar- 
 
132 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 dener too often works in the sphere of the arti- 
 san. There can be no rules for landscape garden- 
 ing, any more than there can be for painting or 
 sculpture. The operator may be taught how to 
 hold the brush or strike the chisel or plant the 
 tree, but he remains an operator ; the art is intel- 
 lectual and emotional, and will not confine itself 
 in precepts. 
 
 The making of a good and spacious lawn, 
 then, is the very first practical consideration in 
 a landscape garden. This provided, the gardener 
 conceives what is the dominant and central fea- 
 ture in the place, and then throws the entire 
 premises into subordination with this feature. 
 In home grounds this central feature is the house. 
 To scatter trees and bushes over the area defeats 
 the fundamental purpose of the place, — the pur- 
 
THE BACKGROUND 
 
 133 
 
 pose to make every part of the grounds lead up 
 to the home and to accentuate its homelikeness. 
 Keep the center of the place open. Plant the 
 borders. Avoid all disconnected, cheap, patchy, 
 and curious effects. 
 
 If the lawn then, is the canvas, the house is 
 
 \,.r=. ,„, ^ . ..^*-;;^-=^-"' „,i'>'.,''ib. 
 
 
 Hs,:/-' 
 
 
 127. A home. 
 
 the central object in the picture. All the planting 
 should be subordinate and accessory to it. This 
 central object should itself be defined by a back- 
 ground. A house which stands on a bare plain 
 or hill is a part of the universe, not a part of a 
 home. Recall the cozy little farmhouse which is 
 backed by a wood or an orchard ; then compare 
 some pretentious structure which stands apart 
 from all planting. Or observe Uie wai'mth and 
 
134 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 homelikeness which the background gives to Fig. 
 127. Yet how many are the farmhouses which 
 stand as stark and cold against the sky as if they 
 were competing with the moon! We would not 
 believe it possible for a man to live in a house 
 
 128. Well planned but poorly executed. 
 
 twenty- five years and not, by accident, allow some 
 tree to grow, were it not that it is so ! 
 
 It is not* enough that trees and bushes be 
 planted in masses. They must be kept in masses 
 by letting them grow freely in a natural manner. 
 The pruning-knife is the most inveterate enemy 
 of shrubbery. Pictures 128 and 129 illustrate 
 what I mean. The former represents a good 
 group of bushes so far as arrangement is con- 
 cerned, but it has been ruined by the shears. 
 The attention of the observer is instantly arrested 
 by the individual bushes. Instead of one free 
 and expressive object, there are several stiff and 
 expressionless ones. If the observer stops to con- 
 sider his own thoughts when he comes upon such 
 
THE SHEARING OF TREES 
 
 135 
 
 a collection, he will likely find himself counting 
 the bushes ; or, at least, he will be making 
 mental comparisons of the various bushes, and 
 wondering why they are not all sheared to be ex- 
 actly alike. Fig. 129 shows how the same "artist" 
 has treated two deutzias and a juniper. Much 
 the same effect could have been secured, and 
 with much less trouble, by laying two flour bar- 
 
 129. The three guardsmen. 
 
 rels end to end and standing a third one between 
 them. 
 
 I must hasten to say that I have not the 
 slightest objection to the shearing of trees. The 
 only trouble is in calling the practice art, and 
 in putting the trees where people must see them. 
 If the operator simply calls the business shear- 
 
136 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 ing, and puts the things where he and others 
 who like them may see them, objection could not 
 be raised. Some persons like painted stones, 
 others like iron bulldogs in the front yard and 
 the word "welcome" worked into the door-mat, 
 and others like barbered trees. So long as these 
 likes are purely personal, it would seem to be 
 better taste to put such curiosities in the back 
 yard, where the owner may admire them without 
 molestation. 
 
 I do not mean to discourage the use of flowers 
 and bright foliage and striking forms of vege- 
 tation ; but these things are never primary con- 
 siderations in a good place. The structural ele- 
 ments of the place are designed first. The flank- 
 ing and bordering masses are then planted. 
 Finally, the flowers and accessories are put in, 
 in just the same way that a house is painted 
 after it is built. Flowers appear to best advan- 
 tage when seen against a background of foliage, 
 and they are then, also, an integral part of the 
 picture. The flower garden, as such, should be 
 at the rear or side of a place, the same as all 
 other strictly personal appurtenances are ; but 
 flowers and bright leaves may be freely scattered 
 along the borders and near the foliage masses. 
 
 The use of flower-beds is so commonly misun- 
 derstood that I must expatiate upon the fact, even 
 at the risk of putting my reader to sleep. It is 
 commonly assumed that many people have no 
 
FLOWER-BEDS 137 
 
 love or appreciation of flowers, but it is probably 
 nearer to the truth to saj- that no person is wholly 
 lacking in this respect. Even those persons who 
 declare that they care nothing for flowers, are 
 generally deceived by their dislike of flower-beds 
 and the conventional methods of flower-growing. 
 I know many people who stoutly denj^ any liking 
 for flowers, but who, nevertheless, are rejoiced 
 with the blossoming of the orchards and the pur- 
 ple bloom of the clover fields. The fault is not 
 so much with the persons themselves as w^ith the 
 methods of growing and displaying the flowers. 
 
 The greatest fault with our flower-growing is 
 the stinginess of it. We grow our flowers as if 
 they were the choicest rarities, to be coddled in a 
 hotbed or under a bell -jar, and then to be ex- 
 hibited as single specimens in some little pinched 
 and ridiculous hole cut in the turf, or perched 
 upon an ant-hill which some gardener has labo- 
 riously heaped upon a lawn. Nature, on the other 
 hand, grows her flowers in the most luxurious 
 abandon, and one can pick an armful without 
 offense. She grows her flowers in earnest, as a 
 man grows a crop of corn. One can revel in the 
 color and the fragrance, and be satisfied. 
 
 The next fault with our flower-growing is the 
 flower-bed. Nature has no time to make flower- 
 beds; she is busy growing flowers. And, then, 
 if she were given to flower-beds, the whole 
 effect would be lost, for she could no longer be 
 
138 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 luxurious and wanton, and if a flower were picked 
 her whole scheme might be upset. Imagine a 
 geranium -bed or a coleus-bed, with its wonderful 
 "design," set out into a wood or in a free and 
 open landscape! Even the birds would laugh 
 at it! 
 
 What I want to say is that we should grow 
 flowers when we make a flower-garden. Have 
 
 130. The flower-garden is by itself, and at one side 
 or in the rear of the place. 
 
 enough of them to make it worth the effort. I 
 sympathize with the man who likes sunflowers. 
 There is enough of them to be worth looking at. 
 They fill the eye. Now show this man ten square 
 feet of pinks, or asters, or daisies, all growing 
 free and easy, and he will tell you that he likes 
 them. All this has a particular application to the 
 farmer. He grows potatoes and buckwheat and 
 
THE FLOWER-BED 139 
 
 weeds by the acre: two or three unhappy pinks 
 or o^erauinms are not enough to make an im- 
 pression. 
 
 I suppose that everyone feels that the greatest 
 charm of any landscape in the north is the green- 
 sward. It is the canvas upon which every artist- 
 planter attempts to make a picture. But imagine 
 a painter putting a glowing bed of coleuses on 
 his canvas for a center -piece! The fact is, the 
 easiest way to spoil a good lawn is to put a flower- 
 bed in it; and the most effective way in which to 
 show off flowers to the least advantage is to plant 
 them in a bed in the greensward. Flowers need 
 a background. We do not hang our pictures on 
 fence -posts. If flowers are to be grown on a 
 
 
 
 ' l|iv<,Kill((iin; ■■ 
 
 • >v\iii((tiiii(flKr((c.. 
 
 131, A hole in the ground. In July, August and 
 September it was a carpet-bed. 
 
 lawn, let them be of the hardy kind, which can be 
 naturalized in the sod and which grow freely in 
 the tall unmown grass. Lawns, upon their part, 
 
140 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 should be large, free and generous, but the more 
 they are cut up and worried with trivial effects 
 the smaller and meaner they look. 
 
 But if we consider these lawn flower-beds 
 wholly apart from their surroundings, we must 
 
 3. f- 
 
 
 vHyikiuBltitol-iisSUi' 
 
 "'."lflllll,lll,.<l, 
 
 " '!iM*"!;v;ru,„m, 
 
 '..Mill'SiiHlli 
 
 
 v^;:;!':i!i'':^;i:"i''»'H'';Hl"ll"V;« 
 
 132. Worth paying admittance to see! 
 
 admit that they are at best unsatisfactory. It 
 generally amounts to this, that we have four 
 months of sparse and downcast vegetation, one 
 month of limp and frost-bitten plants, and seven 
 months of bare earth or mud. I am not now 
 opposing the carpet -beds which professional gar- 
 deners make in parks and other museums. I like 
 museums, and some of the carpet beds and set 
 pieces are "fearfully and wonderfully made" (see 
 
FLOWERS IN LAWNS 
 
 141 
 
 Fig. 132). I am directing my remarks to those 
 humble home-made flower-beds which are so 
 common in lawns of country and city homes 
 alike. These beds are cut from the good fresh 
 
 133. A heav> bordei which shuts out a bleak held. In 
 front of this border is an ideal place for flowers. 
 
 turf, often in the most fantastic designs, and are 
 filled with such plants as the women of the 
 place may be able to carry over in cellars or in 
 the window. The plants themselves may look 
 very well in pots, but when they are turned out 
 of doors they have a sorry time for a month 
 adapting themselves to the sun and winds, and 
 it is generally well on towards midsummer before 
 the}' begin to cover the earth. During all these 
 weeks they have demanded more time and labor 
 than would have been needed to care for a plan- 
 tation of much greater size, and which would 
 
142 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 have given flowers every day from the time the 
 birds began to nest in the spring until the last 
 robin had flown in November. 
 
 I wish that instead of saying flower-bed we 
 might say flower- border. Any good place, as I 
 have said, should have its center open. The sides 
 may be more or less confined by plantings of 
 shrubs and trees and many kinds of herbs. This 
 border -planting sets bounds to the place, and 
 makes it one's own. The person lives inside his 
 place, not on it. He is not cramped and 
 jostled by things scattered all over the place, 
 with no purpose or meaning. Along the borders, 
 against groups, often by the corners of the resi- 
 dence or in front of porches, — these are places for 
 flowers. When planting, do not aim at designs or 
 effects: just have lots of flowers, a variety of 
 them, growing luxuriantly, as if they could not 
 help it. Ten flowers against a background are 
 more effective than a hundred in the opo-n yard. 
 
 I have asked a professional artist, Mr. Mathews, 
 to draw me the kind of a flower-bed that he likes. 
 It is shown in Fig. 134. It is a border, — a strip 
 of land two or three feet wide along a fence. 
 This is the place where pigweeds usually grow. 
 Here he has planted marigolds, gladiolus, golden- 
 rod, wild asters, China asters, and — best of all — 
 hollyhocks. Any one would like that flower-gar- 
 den. It has some of that local and indefinable 
 charm which always attaches to an "old-fashioned 
 
THE FLOWER -BORDER 
 
 143 
 
 134. .An informal flower-border. ' ' 34^vw;*'^^ 
 
 garden," with its exuberant tangle of form and 
 color. Every yard has some such strip of land 
 along a rear walk or fence or against a building. 
 It is the easiest thing to plant it, — ever so much 
 easier than digging the hideous geranium bed 
 into the center of an inoffensive lawn. 
 
144 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 Speaking of the old-fashioned garden reminds 
 me of one of William Falconer's excellent para- 
 graphs ("Gardening," November 15, 1897, p. 75): 
 "We tried it in Schenley Park this year. We 
 needed a handy dumping ground, and hit on the 
 head of a deep ravine between two woods; into 
 it we dumped hundreds upon hundreds of wagon 
 loads of rock and clay, filling it near to the top, 
 then surfaced it with good soil. Here we planted 
 some shrubs, and broadcast among them set out 
 scarlet poppies, eschscholtzias, dwarf nasturtiums, 
 snapdragons, pansies, marigolds, and all manner 
 of hardy herbaceous plants, having enough of 
 each sort to make a mass of its kind and color, 
 and the effect was fine. In the middle was a 
 plantation of hundreds of clumps of Japan and 
 German irises interplanted, thence succeeded by 
 thousands of gladioli, and banded with montbre- 
 tias, from which we had flowers till frost. The 
 steep face of this hill was graded a little and a 
 series of winding stone steps setin to it, making 
 the descent into the hollow quite easy; the stones 
 were the rough, uneven slabs secured in blasting 
 the rocks when grading in other parts of the park, 
 and both along outer edges of the steps and the 
 sides of the upper walk a wide belt of moss pink 
 was planted ; and the banks all about were 
 planted with shrubs, vines, wild roses, columbines 
 and other plants. More cameras and kodaks were 
 levelled by visitors at this piece of gardening than 
 
INFORMAL FLOWER -BORDERS 145 
 
 at any other spot in the park, and still we had 
 acres of painted summer beds." 
 
 There is no prescribed rule as to what one 
 should put into these informal flower -borders. Put 
 in them the plants you like. Perhaps the greater 
 part of them should be perennials, which come up 
 of themselves every spring, and which are hardy 
 and reliable. Wild flowers are particularly effec- 
 tive. Everyone knows that many of the native 
 herbs of woods and glades are more attractive 
 than some of the most prized garden flowers. 
 The greater part of these native flowers grow 
 readily in cultivation, sometimes even in places 
 which, in soil and exposure, aremuch unlike their 
 native haunts. Many of them make thickened 
 roots, and they may be safely transplanted at any 
 time after the flowers have passed. To most per- 
 sons, the wild flowers are less known than many 
 exotics which have smaller merit, and the exten- 
 sion of cultivation is constantly tending to anni- 
 hilate them. Here, then, in the informal flower- 
 border, is an opportunity to rescue them. Then 
 one may sow in freely of easy -growing annuals, 
 as marigolds, China asters, petunias and phloxes, 
 and sweet peas. One of the advantages of these 
 borders is that they are always ready to receive 
 more plants, unless they are full. That is, their 
 symmetry is not marred if some plants are pulled 
 out and others are put in. And if the weeds now 
 and then get a start, very little harm is done. 
 
146 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 Such a border half full of weeds is handsome] 
 than the average well kept geranium bed, becaus< 
 the weeds enjoy growing and the geraniums d( 
 not. I have such a border, three feet wide anc 
 ninety feet long, beside a rear walk. I am putting 
 plants into it every month in the year when th( 
 frost is out of the ground. Plants are dug in th( 
 
 135. A good place for flowers in a formal border. 
 
 woods or fields, whenever I find one which I fancy 
 even if in July. The tops are cut off, the roofe 
 kept moist, and even though the soil is a mosi 
 unkindly one, most of these much -abused plants 
 grow. To be sure, there are some weeds in it; 
 but then, the weeds are a part of the collection! 
 A well grown bull-thistle in such a place is wortl 
 
A WEEDLAND BORDER 147 
 
 more than a bushel of potatoes. These plants 
 have been lifted from the fields in the most care- 
 less fashion. A noble plant of the pink -hearted 
 Spirgea lobata was pulled from a swamp in July 
 when it was in full bloom; the bluebells have 
 been stolen from cliffs without regard to time or 
 season; some of the roots were carried in the 
 pocket for hours before the opportunity came for 
 planting, and this, too, in the height of summer. 
 Of course, some plants have resented this treat- 
 ment, but the border is a happy famih', and it is 
 all the better and more personal because it is the 
 result of moments of relaxation. Such a border 
 has something new and interesting everj^ month 
 of the growing season; and even in the winter 
 the tall clumps of grasses and aster -stems wave 
 their plumes above the snow and are a source of 
 delight to every frolicksome bevy of snowbirds. 
 
 I have spoken of this choice little weedland to 
 show how simple and easy a thing it is to make 
 an attractive mass -plantation. Set aside a bit of 
 ground in the right place. Make the most of a 
 rock (Fig. 136), or bank, or other undesirable 
 feature of the place. Spade up the ground and 
 make it rich, and then set plants in it. That is 
 all there is of it. You will not get it to suit you 
 the first year, and perhaps not the second or 
 the third one. You can always pull out plants 
 and put more in. I should be sorry if it did 
 perfectly suit you, for I should then feel that you 
 
148 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 had lost interest iu it. I should never want a 
 lawn -garden if I could not change it a little or 
 plant something new each year. 
 
 What kinds of shrubs and flowers shall I plant ? 
 This is a wholly secondary and largely a personal 
 consideration. Be sure that the main plantings 
 are made up of hardy and vigorous species, and 
 have lots of them. Then get the things which 
 you like. I like bull- thistles, lilacs, hollyhocks, 
 burdocks. rhul:)arb. dogwoods, spireas. elders and 
 
 I V>;^^ ^ 
 
 
 y- 
 
 136. 3Iakiug the inost of a rock. 
 
 such careless things. But others have better 
 taste. There is endless merit in the choice of 
 species, but the point I wish to emphasize is that 
 the arrangement or disposition of the plants is 
 far more important than the kinds. 
 
 It should be said that the appreciation of 
 foliage effects in the landscape is a higher type 
 of feeling than the desire for mere color. Flowers 
 are transitory, but foliage and plant forms are 
 abiding. The common roses have verv little value 
 
SHRUBS FOR LAWNS 
 
 149 
 
 for landscape planting, because the foliage and 
 habit of the rose bush are not attractive, the 
 leaves are inveterately attacked by bugs, and the 
 blossoms are fleeting. Some of the wild roses 
 and the Japanese Rosa rugosa, however, have 
 distinct merit for mass effects. Wild bushes 
 
 
 k< AT' 
 
 ^. 
 
 ■V ^ 
 
 
 ,*> 
 
 
 137. Making a picture with rhubarb. 
 
 are nearly always attractive when planted in 
 borders and groups. They improve in appear- 
 ance under cultivation, because they are given 
 a better chance to grow. In wild nature, there 
 is such a fierce struggle for existence that plants 
 usually grow to few or single stems, and they are 
 sparse and scraggly in form ; but once given all 
 
150 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 the room they want and a good soil, and they be- 
 come hixurious, full and comely. In most home 
 grounds in the country, the body of the planting 
 may be very effectively made by the use of bushes 
 taken from adjacent woods and fields. The 
 masses may then be enlivened by the addition 
 here and there of cultivated bushes, and the plant- 
 ing of flowers and herbs about the borders. It 
 is not essential that one know the names of these 
 wild bushes, although a knowledge of their botani- 
 cal features will add greatly to the pleasure of 
 growing them. Neither will they look common 
 when transferred to the lawn. There are very 
 few people who know even the commonest wild 
 bushes intimately, and the bushes change so 
 much in looks when removed to rich grounds 
 that few people recognize them. I have a mass 
 of shrubbery (Fig. 140) which is much admired, 
 and visitors are always asking me what the 
 bushes are , yet I dug the roots in the neighbor- 
 hood. 
 
 It is but a corollary of this discussion to say 
 that plants which are simply odd or grotesque or 
 unusual should be used with the greatest caution, 
 for they introduce extraneous and jarring effects. 
 They are little in sympathy with a landscape gar- 
 den. An artist would not care to paint an ever- 
 green which is sheared into some grotesque shape. 
 It is too formal, and it has no elements of true 
 beauty. It is only curious, and shows what a 
 
WEEPING TREES 
 
 151 
 
 man with plenty of time and long pruning shears 
 can accomplish. A weeping tree is nearly al- 
 ways seen to best advantage when it stands 
 against a group or mass of foliage (Fig. 138) as 
 a promontory, adding zest and spirit to the border. 
 This leads me to speak of the planting of the 
 Lombardy poplar, which may be taken as a type 
 
 
 -«..<iii«»(iC''tli.liS|g^j;g5^jj^_ 
 
 138. A weeping tree well placed. 
 
 of the formal tree. Fortunately, this tree is less 
 planted in New York than in many western states. 
 Its chief merits to the average planter are the 
 quickness of its growth and the readiness with 
 which it multiplies by cuttings. But in the north 
 it is apt to be a short-lived tree, and it suffers 
 from storms, and it has few really useful quali- 
 ties. It may be used to some advantage in wind- 
 
152 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 breaks for peach orchards and other short-lived 
 plantations; but after a few years a screen of 
 Lombardies begins to fail, and the habit of suck- 
 ering from the root adds to its undesirable fea- 
 tures. For shade it has little merit, and for tim- 
 ber none. People like it because it is striking, 
 and this, in an artistic sense, is its gravest fault. 
 It is unlike anything else in our landscape, and 
 does not fit into our scenery well The Lombardy 
 should rarely, if ever, be seen as a single speci- 
 men; and above all, its formality and stiifness 
 should not be emphasized by planting it in rows 
 along country roads. A row of Lombardies along 
 a roadside is like a row of exclamation points! 
 
 But the tree can often be used to good effect as 
 one factor in a group of trees, where its spire-like 
 shape, towering above the surrounding foliage, 
 may lend a spirited charm to the landscape. It 
 combines well in such groups if it stands in visual 
 nearness to chimneys or other tall formal objects. 
 Then it gives a sort of architectural finish and 
 spirit to a group of trees; but the effect is gen- 
 erally lessened, if not altogether spoiled, if more 
 than one Lombardy is in view. One or two speci- 
 mens may often be used to give vigor to heavy 
 plantations about low buildings, and the effect is 
 generally best if they are seen beyond or at the 
 rear of the building. 
 
 Another feature of common ornamental plant- 
 ing, which is well illustrated in the use of poplars, 
 
POPLARS AND WILLOWS 153 
 
 is the desire for plants merely because they grow 
 rapidly. A very rapid -growing tree nearly always 
 produces cheap effects. This is well illustrated in 
 the common planting of willows and poplars about 
 summer places or lake shores. Their effect is 
 almost wholly one of cheapness and temporari- 
 ness. There is little that suggests strength or 
 durability in willows and poplars, and for this 
 reason they should always be used as minor or 
 secondary features in ornamental or home grounds. 
 Where quick results are desired, nothing is better 
 to plant than these trees, but better trees, like 
 maples, oaks, or elms, should be planted with 
 them, and the poplars and willows should be re- 
 moved as fast as the other species begin to afford 
 protection. When the plantation finally assumes 
 its permanent characters, a few of the remaining 
 poplars and willows, judiciously left, may afford 
 very excellent effects ; but no one who has an 
 artist's feeling would be content to construct the 
 frame work of his place of these rapid -growing 
 and soft -wooded trees. 
 
 I have said that the legitimate use of poplars in 
 ornamental grounds is in the production of 
 minor or secondary effects. As a rule, they are 
 less adapted to isolated planting as specimen 
 trees than to use in composition, — that is, as 
 parts of general groups of trees, where their char- 
 acters serve to break the monotony of heavier 
 foliage. The poplars are gay trees, as a rule, 
 
154 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 especially those, like the aspens, which have a 
 trembling foliage. Their leaves are bright and 
 the tops are thin. A few of them in judicious 
 positions give a place a sprightly air. I especially 
 love the common aspen, or Populus treniuloides, of 
 our woods. Its dangling catkins (Fig. 139), light, 
 dancing foliage and silver -gray limbs always cheer 
 me, and its* autumn color is one of the purest 
 golden -yellows of our landscapes. I like to see a 
 tree of it standing out in front of a group of 
 maples or evergreens. Its whole attitude is then 
 one of familiarity. 
 
 I will conclude this sketch of the ideas asso- 
 ciated with the picture in the landscape with an 
 article which I contributed to a recent issue of 
 "Park and Cemetery," entitled "\Yhat are the 
 fundamental concepts in landscape gardeningf" 
 
 If the teacher or writer is to make any subject 
 plain to his pupils or readers, he must be able to 
 single out a few simple and fundamental prin- 
 ciples. To state facts and rules is to treat only 
 the incidents of the subject. Rules are not final. 
 They express only the experience of the author 
 or the combined experiences of others; and since 
 experiences vary, the nature and the application 
 of the rules must vary according to circumstances. 
 People are forever misunderstanding what land- 
 scape gardening is, because we are always telling 
 them what kinds of trees to plant and how to 
 

 -^ 
 
 
 
 ^,>Vv^J1^^.t'.<A^>^ \H^ v^l5 >// -r5? 
 
156 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 plant them. But the planter may not know why 
 he plants. 
 
 The first instruction which should be given in 
 landscape gardening, I think, is this: The object 
 of landscape gardening is to malce a picture. All 
 the grading, seeding, planting, are incidental and 
 supplemental to this one central idea. The green- 
 sward is the canvas, the house or some other 
 prominent point is the central figure, the plant- 
 ing completes the composition and adds the color. 
 
 The second fundamental idea, I think, is the 
 principle that the picture should have a landscape 
 effect. That is, it should be nature -like. Carpet- 
 beds are masses of color, not pictures. They are 
 the little garnishings and reliefs which are to be 
 used very cautiously, in the same way that little 
 eccentricities and conventionalisms in a building 
 should never be more than very minor features. 
 
 Every other concept in landscape gardening is 
 subordinate to these two. They are explanations 
 of the means and methods of making the picture. 
 Some of the most important of these secondary, 
 yet fundamental, concepts are as follows: 
 
 Conceive of the place as a unit. If a building 
 is not pleasing, ask an architect to improve it. 
 The real architect will study the building as a 
 whole, grasp its design and meaning, and suggest 
 improvements which will add to the forcefulness 
 of the entire structure. A dabbler would add a 
 chimney here, a window there, and apply various 
 
FUNDAMENTALS OF LANDSCAPE GARDENING 157 
 
 daubs of paint to the building. Each of these 
 features might be good in itself. The paints might 
 be the best of ochre, ultramarine or paris green, 
 but they would have no relation to the building 
 as a whole and would be only ludicrous. These 
 two examples illustrate the difference between 
 landscape gardening and the scattering over the 
 place of mere ornamental features. 
 
 Have some one central and emphatic point in 
 the picture. A picture of a battle draws its in- 
 terest from the action of a central figure or group. 
 The moment the incidental and lateral figures are 
 made as prominent as the central figures, the 
 picture loses emphasis, life and meaning. The 
 borders of a place are of less importance than its 
 center. Therefore 
 
 Keep the center of the place open. Frame 
 and mass the sides. 
 
 Avoid scattered effects. Flowers and high- 
 colored foliage are most effective against a back- 
 ground of green foliage. A flower-bed in the 
 middle of a lawn is onlj' a flower-bed; against 
 the border -planting it is not only a flower-bed, 
 but it may be also a structural part of the 
 picture. 
 
 Flowers are incidents in a landscape picture. 
 Thej' add emphasis, supply color, give variety and 
 finish; they are the ornaments, but the lawn and 
 the mass -plantings make the framework. One 
 flower in the border, and made an incident of the 
 
158 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 picture, is more effective than twenty flowers in 
 the center of the lawn. 
 
 More depends upon the positions which plants 
 occupy with reference to each other and to the 
 
 ^i^i'iSSKSWKiijj;^ 
 
 
 
 140. A front yard planting. 
 
 structural design of the place, than upon the 
 intrinsic merits of the plants themselves. 
 
 Landscape gardening, then, is the embellish- 
 ment of grounds in such a way that they will have 
 a nature -like or landscape effect. 
 
 VARIOUS SPECIFIC EXAMPLES 
 
 The foregoing remarks will mean more if the 
 reader is shown some concrete examples. I have 
 selected a few cases, not because they are the 
 
A FRONT -YARD PLANTING 
 
 159 
 
 best, or even because they are always good 
 enough for models, but because they lie in my 
 way and illustrate what I desire to teach. We 
 will first look at a very ordinary front yard. 
 It contained no plants, except a pear tree stand- 
 ing near the corner of the house. Four years 
 later sees the yard as shown in Fig. 140. An 
 exochorda is the large bush in the very fore- 
 ground, and the porch foundation is screened 
 and a border is thereby given to the lawn. The 
 length of this planting from end to end is about 
 
 fourteen feet, with a projection towards the 
 front on the left of ten feet. In the bay at 
 the base of this projection the planting is only 
 two feet wide, and from here it gradual Ij^ swings 
 out to the steps, eight feet wide. The promi- 
 
160 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 nent large-leaved plant near the steps is a 
 bramble, Rubus odoratus, very common in the 
 neighborhood, and it is a choice plant for 
 decorative planting. The plants in this tangle in 
 front of the porch are all from the wild, and 
 
 142. Diagram of back-yard. 50 x 90 ft. 
 
 comprise a prickly ash, several plants of two wild 
 osiers or dogwoods, a spice bush, rose, wild sun- 
 flowers and asters and golden -rods. The pro- 
 montory at the left is a more ambitious but less 
 effective mass. It contains an exochorda, a reed, 
 variegated elder, sacaline, variegated dogwood, 
 tansy, and a young tree of wild crab. At the 
 
PLANTING OF SMALL YARDS 161 
 
 rear of the plantation, next the house*, one sees 
 the pear tree. The best single part of the plant- 
 ing is the reed (Arundo Donax) overtopping the 
 exochorda (not shown in the picture). The pho- 
 tograph was taken early in summer, before the 
 reed had become conspicuous. 
 
 A ground plan of this planting is shown in Fig. 
 141. At A is the walk and B the steps. An 
 opening at D serves as a walk. The main plant- 
 ing, in front of the porch, fourteen feet long, 
 received twelve plants, some of which have now 
 spread into large clumps. At 1 is a large bush of 
 osier, Cornus Baileyi. 
 At 2 is a mass of Rubus 
 odoratus ; at 5 asters and 
 golden -rods; at 3 a clump 
 of wild sunflowers. The 
 projecting planting on 
 
 the left comprises about 143. Cabin opening out 
 
 , 1 i o T,- 1 ,1 from the border planting. 
 
 ten plants, oi which 4 
 
 is exochorda, 6 is arundo or reed, at the back of 
 which is a large clump of sacaline, and 7 is a 
 variegated -leaved elder. 
 
 A back yard is shown in Fig. 142. The owner 
 wanted a tennis court, and the yard is so small 
 as not to allow of wide planting at the borders. 
 However, something could be done. Upon the 
 left is the weed- land border, mentioned on page 
 146. In the first place, a good lawn was made. 
 In the second place, no walks or drives were 
 
 K 
 
162 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 laid in the area. The drive for grocers' wagons 
 and coal is seen in the rear, ninety feet from 
 the house. From I to J is the weedland, sep- 
 arating the area from the neighbor's premises. 
 Near I is a clump of roses. At K is a large 
 bunch of golden-rods. H marks a clump of 
 yucca. G is a cabin, covered with vines on the 
 front, and shown in Figs. 143, 144. From G 
 
 144. Rustic bark-covered cabin. 
 
 to F is an irregular border, about six feet wide, 
 containing barberries, forsythias, wild elder, and 
 other bushes. D E is a screen of Russian mul- 
 berry, setting off the clothes yard from the front 
 lawn. Near the back porch, at the end of the 
 screen, is an arbor covered with wild grapes, 
 making a playhouse for the children. A clump 
 of lilacs stands at A. At B is a vine- covered 
 screen, serving as a hammock support. The 
 lawn made and the planting done, it was next 
 necessary to lay the walks. These are wholly 
 informal affairs, made by sinking a plank ten 
 inches wide into the ground to a level with the 
 
145. An area made ready for the seeding and planting. 
 
 ■■■^nl-" '■•""■■"'•■■*■■' 
 
 ^..-♦■■i§g??&ir 
 
 146. Five years' growth upon the above area. 
 
164 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 sod. The border plantings of this yard are too 
 straight and regular for the most artistic results, 
 but such was necessary in order not to encroach 
 upon the central space. Yet the reader will no 
 doubt agree that this yard is much better than 
 it could be made by any system of scattered and 
 spotted planting. Let him imagine how a glow- 
 ing carpet -bed would look set down in the cen- 
 ter of this lawn! 
 
 The making of a landscape picture is well illus- 
 trated in Figs. 145, 146. The former shows a small 
 clay field (seventy five feet wide and three hundred 
 feet deep), with a barn at the rear. In front of 
 the barn is a screen of willows. The observer is 
 looking from the dwelling house. The area has 
 been plowed and seeded for a lawn. The opera- 
 tor has then marked out a devious line upon 
 either border with a hoe handle, and all the space 
 between these borders has been gone over with a 
 garden roller to mark the area of the desired 
 greensward. The borders are now planted with 
 a variety of small trees, bushes and herbs. Five 
 years later the view shown in Fig. 146 was taken. 
 
 A back yard is shown in Fig. 147. It is approx- 
 imatelj' sixty feet square. At present it contains 
 a drive, which is unnecessary, expensive to keep 
 in repair, and destructive of any attempt to make 
 a picture of the area. The place could be im- 
 proved by planting it somewhat after the manner 
 of Fig. 148. 
 
r- 
 
 149. Plan of a city yard, waiting for planting. 
 
PLANTING A CITY YARD 167 
 
 A plan of a city lot is given in Fig. 149. The 
 area is fifty by one hundred, and the house occu- 
 pies the greater part of the width. It is level, 
 but the surrounding land is higher, resulting in a 
 sharp terrace, three or four feet high, on the rear, 
 E D. This terrace vanishes at C on the right, but 
 extends nearly the whole length of the other 
 side, gradually diminishing as it approaches A. 
 There is a terrace two feet high extending from 
 A to B, along the front. Beyond the line E D 
 is the rear of an establishment which it is desired 
 to hide. Since the terraces set definite borders 
 to this little place, it is desirable to plant the 
 boundaries rather heavily. If the adjoining lawns 
 were on the same level, or if the neighbors would 
 allow one area to be merged into the other by 
 pleasant slopes, the three yards might be made into 
 one picture ; but the place must remain isolated. 
 
 There are three problems of structural plant- 
 ing in the place : to provide a cover or screen 
 at the rear ; to provide lower border masses on 
 the side terraces ; to plant next the foundations 
 of the house. Aside from these problems, the 
 grower is entitled to have a certain number of 
 specimen plants, if he has particular liking for 
 given types, but these specimens must be planted 
 in some relation to the structural masses, and 
 not in the middle of the lawn. 
 
 The following shi-ubs were actually selected and 
 planted. The place is in central New York, 
 
168 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 Shrubs for Tall Bacl'ground. 
 
 2 Barberry, Berheris vulgaris and var. purpurea. 
 
 1 Coraus Mas. 
 
 2 Tall deutzias. 
 
 3 Lilacs. 
 
 2 Mock oranges, PhiladelpJms grandijiorus and P. coro- 
 narius. 
 
 2 Variegated elders. 
 
 2 Elseagnus, E. hortensls and E. longipes. 
 
 1 Exochorda. 
 
 2 Hibiscuses. 
 1 Privet. 
 
 3 Viburnums. 
 1 Snowball. 
 
 1 Tartarian honeysuckle. 
 
 1 Silver Bell, Halesia tetr'aptera. 
 
 These were planted on the sloping bank of the 
 terrace, from E to D. The terrace has an in- 
 
 K</ 
 
 ?«*W«*^ 
 
 
 A''"i^'ift^^- 
 
 150. The planting of the terrace in Fig. 149. 
 
 cline, or width, of abont three feet. Fig. 150 
 shows this terrace after the planting was done, 
 looking from the point C. 
 
PLANTING A CITY YARD 169 
 
 Shnihs of Medium Size, Suitable for Side Plantings and 
 
 Ch'oups. 
 
 3 Barberries, Berheris Thunhergii. 
 
 3 Osier dogwoods, variegated. 
 
 2 Japanese quinces, Cydonia Japonica and C. Maulei. 
 
 4 Tall deutzias. 
 
 1 Variegated elder. 
 
 7 Weigelas, assorted colors. 
 
 1 Rhodotypus. 
 
 9 Spireas of medium growth, assorted 
 
 1 Rubus odoratus. 
 
 1 Lonieera fragrantissima. 
 
 Most of these shrubs were planted in a border 
 two feet wide extending from B to C D, the plant- 
 ing beginning about ten feet back from the street. 
 Some of them were placed upon the terrace at the 
 left, extending from E one- fourth of the distance 
 to A. The plants were set about two feet apart. 
 A strong clump was placed at N to screen the 
 back yard. In this back yard a few small fruit 
 trees and a strawberry bed were planted. 
 
 Loiv Informal Shrubs for Front of Porch and Baulking 
 Against House. 
 
 3 Deutzia gracilis. 
 
 6 Kerrias, green and variegated. 
 3 Daphne Mezereum. 
 3 Lonieera Halliana. 
 3 Rubus phoenicolasius. 
 
 3 Symphoricarpus vulgaris. 
 
 4 Mahonias. 
 
 1 Ribes aureum. 
 
170 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 1 Ribes sanguineum. 
 1 Rubus crataegifolius. 
 
 1 Rubus fruticosus var. laciniatus. 
 
 These bushes were planted against the front of 
 the house (a porch on a high foundation extends 
 to the right from 0), from the walk around to P, 
 and a few of them were placed at the rear of the 
 house. 
 
 Specimen Shrubs for mere Ornament. 
 
 Azalea. 
 
 Rhododendron . 
 Rose. 
 
 2 Hydrangeas. 
 1 Snowball. 
 
 1 each Forsythia suspensa and F. viridissima. 
 
 2 Flowering almonds. 
 
 These were planted in conspicuous places here 
 and there against the other masses. 
 
 Here are one hundred excellent and interesting 
 bushes planted in a yard only fifty feet wide and 
 one hundred feet deep, and yet the place has as 
 much room in it as it had before ! There is abun- 
 dant opportunity along the borders for dropping 
 in cannas, dahlias, hollyhocks, asters, geraniums, 
 coleuses, and other brilliant paints. The bushes 
 will soon begin to crowd, to be sure, but a mass 
 is wanted; but the narrowness of the plantations 
 will allow each bush to develop itself laterallj^ to 
 perfection. If the borders become too thick, 
 
A CITY YARD 
 
 171 
 
 however, it is an easy matter to remove some of 
 the bushes; but they probably will not. Picture 
 the color and variety and life in that little yard! 
 And if a pigweed now and then gets a start in 
 
 ^,«i,? fij'fifetif 
 
 j|i,;,£.5ii^-^-> 
 
 
 .„.„„..,,l,fc ,«oll«u..,...«««*W''"~ 
 
 151. Nine shnibs. 
 
 ,-*'>;? ff^^^il* 
 
 
 
 152. A bank of verdure and color. 
 
 the border, let it alone: it belongs there! Then 
 picture the same area filled with disconnected, 
 spotty, dyspeptic and unspirited flower-beds and 
 rose bushes! 
 
 Strong and bare foundations should be relieved 
 by heavy planting. Fill the corners with snow- 
 drifts of foliage. The corner by the steps is a 
 perennial source of bad temper. The lawn mower 
 
172 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 will not touch it, and the grass has to be cut 
 
 with a butcher-knife. Plant a burdock in it ! 
 
 The tennis -screen may 
 be relieved by a back- 
 ground (Fig. 154) and a 
 clump of ribbon- grass is 
 out of the way against a 
 post (Fig. 155). 
 
 A word should be said 
 about just how to make a 
 group. Dig up the entire 
 area. Never set the bushes 
 in holes dug in the sod 
 (Fig. 156). Spade up the 
 ground, set the bushes 
 
 thick, hoe them at intervals, and then let them go. 
 
 If you do not like the bare earth between them, 
 
 The corner by 
 
 the steps. 
 
 154. Tennis-screen against the border-mass. 
 
HOW TO MAKE THE GROUPS 
 
 173 
 
 sow in the seeds of hardy annual flowers, like 
 phlox, petunia, alyssum and pinks. The person 
 who plants his shrubs in holes in the sward does 
 not seriously mean to make any foliage mass, 
 and it is likely that he does not know what re- 
 lation the border-mass has to artistic planting. I 
 have said to plant the bushes thick. This is for 
 
 ''"■■■I.- >ik'~ 
 
 155. Clump of ribbon-grass against the clothes -post. 
 
 quick effect. It is an easy matter to thin the 
 plantation if it becomes too thick. I should gen- 
 erally plant all common bushes as close as two 
 feet apart each way, especially if I get most of 
 them from the fields, so that I do not have to 
 buy them. Excellent mass effects may also be 
 obtained by cutting well established plants of 
 sumac, ailanthus, basswood, and other strong- 
 
174 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 growing things, to the ground each year, for the 
 purpose of securing the stout shoots. Fig. 157 
 will give the hint. 
 
 But if one has no area which he can make into 
 a lawn and upon which he can plant such verdur- 
 ous masses, what then maj- he do? Even then 
 there may be opportunity for a little neat and 
 artistic planting. Even if one lives in a rented 
 house, he may bring in a bush or an herb from 
 the woods, and paint a picture with it. Plant it 
 in the corner by the steps, in front of the porch, 
 
 
 
 156. Poor little things! 
 
 at the corner of the house, — almost anywhere 
 except in the center of the lawn. Make the 
 ground rich, secure a strong root and plant it with 
 care; then wait. The little clump will not only 
 have a beauty and interest of its own, but it will 
 add immensely to the furniture of the yard. 
 About its base one may plant stray bulbs of glow- 
 ing tulips or dainty snowdrops and lilies -of- the- 
 valley; and these may be followed with pansies 
 and phlox and other simple folk. Very soon one 
 finds himself deeply interested in these random 
 and detached pictures, and almost before he is 
 aware he finds that he has rounded off the corners 
 
MINOR PICTURES 
 
 175 
 
 of the house, made snug little arbors of wild 
 grapes and clematis, covered the rear fence and 
 the outhouse with actinidia and bitter-sweet, and 
 has thrown in dashes of color with hollyhocks, 
 cannas and lilies, and has tied the foundations of 
 the buildings to the greensward by low strands of 
 
 ■^•"'sS3*;;SS&«!*:r::::':: 
 
 : 1 ', - - 
 
 V-'llo-'^^'KlMV. ..-1. 
 
 ■:^^*lv.•Jl^»"••"•■;i|l•». 
 
 157. Ailanthus and sunflowers. 
 
 vines or deft bits of planting. He soon comes to 
 feel that flowers are most expressive of the best 
 emotions when they are daintily dropped in here 
 and there against a background of foliage. Pres- 
 ently he rebels at the bold, harsh and impudent 
 designs of some of the gardeners, and grows into 
 a pure and subdued love of plant forms and ver- 
 dure. He may still like the weeping and cut- 
 leaved and party-colored trees of the horticul- 
 
176 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 turist, but he sees that their best effects are to be 
 had when they are planted sparingly, as flowers 
 are, as borders or promontories of the structural 
 masses. 
 
 These various discussions and pictures will fix 
 in the reader's mind the importance of a simple 
 structural design for the home grounds. The 
 essential elements of this design are the open 
 center and the well -planted sides. It is par- 
 ticularly important that the view to and from 
 the front of the dwelling house be kept open, 
 for otherwise there can be little conception of 
 pictorial effect in the composition. It is a grave 
 mistake to cover up or to obscure the one central 
 and important feature of the place. 
 
 It all amounts to this, that the best planting, 
 like the best painting and the best music, is 
 possible only with the best and tenderest feeling 
 and the closest living with nature. One's place 
 grows to be a reflection of himself, changing as 
 he changes, and expressing his life and sympa- 
 thies to the last. 
 
 
 ' ' ''\'^,^^^^il-!^^'^/ ^V ,a,-,v 
 
 ?ac^\^ 
 
 
 158. Birds build their nests here. 
 
THE GRADING 
 
 177 
 
 HOW TO MAKE THE IMPR0VE3IENTS. 
 
 After the home maker has devised a general 
 scheme or plan of his area, he will inquire how 
 to go about it to prepare the land and to lay out 
 the structural design. The remarks which have 
 been made in Section I, respecting the prepara- 
 tion, tillage and enriching of land, will apply 
 to the lawn and the ornamental grounds, but a 
 
 ,,>v..~™»\-:r»°''Tv*«-' '^''^*'" " 
 
 v^a. 
 
 159. An ideal bank in the foreground. 
 
 few specific remarks may be useful. The reader 
 should also consult the best writings upon land- 
 scape gardening and related topics, if he intends 
 to make permanent or extensive improvements. 
 A priced list of current American horticultural 
 books will be found in the third edition of "The 
 Horticulturist's Rule-Book." The reader may 
 consult with profit Long's "Ornamental Garden- 
 ing for Americans" for details of home-making. 
 For discussions of the artistic values of plants, 
 
178 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 Parson's "Landscape Gardening" is invaluable. 
 Other books, and horticultural periodicals, may 
 be consulted. 
 
 The first consideration is to grade the land. 
 Grading is very expensive, especially if performed 
 at a season when the soil is heavy with moisture. 
 Every effort should be made, therefore, to reduce 
 the grading to a minimum and still secure a 
 pleasing contour. The smaller the area, the more 
 pains must be taken with the grading ; but in 
 any plat which is one hundred feet or more 
 square, very considerable undulations may be left 
 in the surface with excellent effect. In lawns of 
 this size, or even half this size, it is rarely ad- 
 visable to have them perfectly flat and level. 
 They should slope gradually away from the house, 
 and when the lawn is seventy-five feet or more 
 in width, it may be slightly crowning with good 
 effect. A lawn should never be hollow, — that is, 
 lower in the center than at the borders, — and 
 broad lawns which are perfectly flat and level 
 often appear to be hollow. A slope of one foot 
 in twenty or thirty is none too much for a 
 pleasant grade in lawns of some extent. 
 
 In places in which the natural slope is very 
 perceptible, there is a tendency to terrace the 
 lawn for the purpose of making the various 
 parts or sections of it more or less level and plane. 
 In nearly all cases, however, a terrace is objec- 
 tionable. It cuts the lawn into two or more por- 
 
TERRACES 
 
 179 
 
 tions, and thereby makes it look smaller and spoils 
 the effect of the picture. Terraces are also ex- 
 pensive to make and to keep in order ; and a 
 shabby terrace is always to be avoided. When 
 formal effects are desired, their value will depend 
 
 160. Treatment of a sloping lawn. 
 
 161. Treatment of a very steep bank. 
 
 very largely upon the rigidity of the lines and the 
 care with which they are maintained. If a terrace 
 is necessary, it should be in the form of a retaining 
 wall next the street, or else it should lie next the 
 building, giving as broad and continuous a lawn 
 as possible. It should be remembered, however, 
 that a terrace next a building should not be a 
 part of the landscape, but a part of the architec- 
 
180 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 ture : that is, it should serve as a base to the 
 building. It will at once be seen, therefore, that 
 terraces are most in place against those buildings 
 which have strong horizontal lines, and 
 I they are not suitable against buildings 
 with very broken lines and mixed or 
 gothic features. In order to join the 
 terrace to the building, it is usually ad- 
 visable to place some 
 architectural feature 
 upon its crown, like 
 a balustrade, and to 
 
 162. Terrace fall- 
 ing too suddenly away 
 from the building. 
 
 ascend it b.y means of architectural steps. The 
 terrace elevation, therefore, becomes a part of 
 the base of the building, and the top of it is 
 an esplanade. 
 
 A simple and gradually sloping bank can 
 nearly always be made to take the place of a ter- 
 race. For example, let the operator make a ter- 
 race, with sharp angles above and below, in the 
 fall of the year; in the spring, he will find that 
 nature has taken the matter in hand and the upper 
 angle of the terrace has been washed away and 
 deposited in the lower angle, and the result is the 
 beginning of a good series of curves. Fig. 159 
 
THE MAKING OF TERRACES 181 
 
 shows an ideal slope, with its double curve, com- 
 prising a convex curve on the top of the bank, 
 and a concave curve at the low^er part. This is 
 a slope which would ordinarily be terraced, but 
 in its present condition it is a part of the land- 
 scape picture. It can be mown as readily as any 
 other part of the lawn, and takes care of itself. 
 A terrace always obtrudes a hard and rigid line, 
 and fastens the attention upon itself rather than 
 upon the landscape. 
 
 The diagrams in Fig. 160 indicate poor and 
 good treatment of a lawn. The terraces are not 
 needed in this case; or if they are, they should 
 never be made as at" 1. The same dip could be 
 taken up in a single curved bank, as at 3, but the 
 better way, in general, is to give the treatment 
 shown in 2. Fig. 161 shows how a very high 
 terrace, 4, can be supplaced by a sloping bank, 5. 
 Fig. 162 shows a terrace which falls away too 
 suddenly from the house. 
 
 In grading to the borders of the place, it is not 
 always necessarj^, nor even desirable, that a con- 
 tinuous contour should be obtained. This is 
 especially true if the border is higher or lower 
 than the lawn. A somewhat irregular line of 
 grade will appear to be most natural, and lend 
 itself best to effective planting. This is especially 
 true in the grade to water -courses, which, as a 
 rule, should be more or less devious or winding ; 
 and the adjacent land should, therefore, present 
 
182 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 various heights and contours. It is not always 
 necessary, however, to make distinct banks along 
 water -courses, especially if the place is small and 
 
 163. Gradual grade to a water-coui-se. Before planting. 
 
 the natural lay of the land is more or less plane or 
 flat. A very slight depression, as shown in Fig. 
 163, may answer all the purposes of a water 
 grade in such places. 
 
 If it is desirable that the lawn be as large 
 and spacious as possible, then the boundary of it 
 should be removed. Take away the fences, curb- 
 ing and other right lines. In rural places, a 
 sunken fence may sometimes be placed athwart the 
 lawn at its farther edge for the purpose of keep- 
 ing cattle off the place, and thereby bring in the 
 adjacent landscape. Fig. 164 suggests how this 
 may be done. The depression near the foot of 
 the lawn, which is really a ditch and scarcely 
 visible from the upper part of the place because 
 of the slight elevation upon its inner rim, 
 answers all the purposes of a fence. 
 
 Nearly all trees are injured if the dirt is filled 
 about the base to the depth of a foot or more. 
 
PROTECTING TREES IN FILLED LAND 183 
 
 The natural crown of the plant should be exposed 
 so far as possible. Oaks, maples, and, in fact, 
 most trees will lose their bark near the crown if 
 the dirt is piled against them; and this is espe- 
 cially true if the water tends to settle about the 
 trunks. Fig. 165 shows how this difficulty may 
 be obviated. A well is stoned up about the tree, 
 allowing a space of a foot or two upon all sides, 
 and tile drains are laid about the base of the well, 
 as shown in the diagram at the right. It is often 
 possible to make a sloping bank just above the 
 tree, and to allow the ground to fall away from 
 the roots of the tree on the lower side, so that 
 there is no well or hole about the tree; but this 
 is possible only when the land below the tree 
 is considerable lower than that above it. 
 
 Walks and drives. — So far as the pic- 
 ture in the landscape is concerned, walks and 
 drives are blemishes. Since they are necessary. 
 
 164. The sunken fence. 
 
 however, they must form a part of the landscape 
 design. They should be as few as possible, not 
 only because they interfere with the artistic com- 
 position, but also because they are expensive to 
 
184 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 make and to maintain. Most places have too 
 many, rather than too few, walks and drives. 
 Small city areas rarely need a driveway entrance, 
 not even to the back door. The bacli yard in Fig. 
 142 illustrates this point. The distance from the 
 house to the street on the back is about ninety 
 feet, yet there is no driveway in the place. The 
 coal and provisions are carried in; and, although 
 
 a^y ■^~ — 
 
 i^, -, 
 
 
 4. 
 ;0^ 
 
 Protecting a tree in filled land. 
 
 the deliverymen may complain at first, they very 
 soon accept the inevitable. It is not worth the 
 while to maintain a drive in such a place for the 
 convenience of truckmen and grocers. Neither 
 is it often necessary to have a drive in the front 
 yard if the house is within seventy-five or one 
 hundred feet of the street. When a drive is 
 necessary, it should enter, if possible, at the side 
 of the residence, and not make a circle in the front 
 lawn. This remark will not apply to large areas 
 of a half acre or more. 
 
WALKS AND DRIVES 
 
 185 
 
 The drives and walks should be direct. They 
 should go where they appear to go, and should be 
 practically the shortest distances between the points 
 
 1G6. Various types of curves, only g being admissable. 
 
 to be reached. Fig. 166 illustrates some of the 
 problems connected with walks to the front door. 
 A common type of walk is at a, and is a nui- 
 
186 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 sance. The time which one loses in going aronnd 
 the cameo -set in the center would be sufficient, if 
 conserved, to lengthen a man's life by several 
 months or a year. Such a device has no merit in 
 art or convenience. It is merely an effort on the 
 part of the maker to show that he has done some- 
 thing. Walk c is better, but still is not ideal, 
 inasmuch as it makes too much of a right-angled 
 curve, and the pedestrian desires to cut across the 
 corner. Such a walk, also, usually extends too far 
 beyond the corner of the house to make it appear 
 to be direct. It has the merit, however, of leav- 
 ing the center of the lawn practically untouched. 
 The curve in walk d is ordinarily unnecessary 
 unless the ground is rolling. In small places, like 
 this, it is better to have a straight walk directly 
 from the sidewalk to the house.' In fact, this is 
 true in nearly all cases in which the lawn is not 
 more than forty to seventy -five feet deep. Plan 
 e is also inexcusable. A straight walk would an- 
 swer every purpose better. Any walk which passes 
 the house, and returns to it, /, is inexcusable un- 
 less it is necessar3' to make a very steep ascent. 
 If most of the traveling is in one direction from 
 the house, a walk like g may be the most direct 
 and efficient. It is known as a direct curve, and 
 is a compound of a concave and a convex curve. 
 It is essential that any walk or drive, however 
 long, should be continuous in direction and design 
 from end to end. Fig. 167 illustrates a long drive 
 
CURBS AND EDGINGS 187 
 
 which contradicts this principle. It is a series of 
 meaningless curves. The reason for these curves 
 is the fact that the drive was extended from time 
 to time as new houses were added to the villa. 
 The reader will easily perceive how all the kinks 
 might be taken out of this drive and one direct 
 and bold curve be substituted. 
 
 The sides of walks and drives may often be 
 planted with shrubbery. It is not necessary that 
 they always have prim and definite borders. 
 Fig. 168 illustrates a bank of foliage which breaks 
 up the hard line of a walk, and serves also as a 
 border for the growing of flowers and interesting 
 specimens. This walk is also characterized by the 
 absence of high and hard borders. 
 
 Even in cities, it is not always necessary that 
 stone copings be used. Fig. 169 illustrates this 
 fact, and also shows how the parking between the 
 walk and the street may be effectively planted. 
 Upon the draining of residence streets, a well- 
 known landscape gardener, O. C. Simonds, writes 
 as follows in "Park and Cemetery:" 
 
 "The surface drainage is something that inter- 
 ests us whenever it rains or when the snow melts. 
 It has been customary to locate catch -basins for 
 receiving the surface water at street intersections. 
 This arrangement causes most of the surface 
 water from both streets to run past the crossings, 
 making it necessary to depress the pavement, so 
 that one must step down and up in going from 
 

SUBURBAN STREETS 
 
 189 
 
 one side of a street to the other, or else a passage- 
 way for the water must be made throuofh the 
 crossing. It may be said that a step dow^n to the 
 pavement and up again to the sidewalk at the 
 street intersections is of no consequence, but it is 
 really more elegant and satisfactory to have the 
 walk practically continuous. With the catch- 
 
 168. Informal treatment of a walk. 
 
 basin at the corner, the stoppage of the inlet, or 
 a great fall of rain, sometimes covers the crossing 
 with water, so that one must either wade or go 
 out of his way. With catch -basins placed in the 
 center of the blocks, or, if the blocks are long, at 
 some distance from the crossing, the intersections 
 
!i! i 
 
 ^1 "^ A* .• i 
 
SUBURBAN STREETS 191 
 
 can be kept relatively high and dry. Roadways 
 are generally made crowning in the center, so that 
 water runs to the sides, but frequentlj' the fall 
 lengthwise of the roadway is less than it should 
 be. City engineers are usually inclined to make 
 the grade along the length of a street as nearly 
 level as possible. Authorities who have given the 
 subject of roads considerable stud}' recommend a 
 fall lengthwise of not less than one foot in one 
 hundred and twenty -five, nor more than six feet 
 in one hundred. Such grades are not always fea- 
 sible, but a certain amount of variation in level 
 can usually be made in a residence street which 
 will make it much more pleasing in appearance, 
 and have certain practical advantages in keeping 
 the street dry. The water is usually confined to 
 the edge of the pavement by curbing, which may 
 rise anywhere from four to fourteen inches 
 above the surface. This causes all the water fall- 
 ing on the roadway to seek the catch -basin and 
 be wasted, excepting for its use in flushing the 
 .sewer. If the curbing, which is really unneces- 
 sary in most cases, were omitted, much of the 
 surface water would soak into the ground between 
 the sidewalk and the pavement, doing much good 
 to trees, shrubs and grass. The roots of the trees 
 naturally extend as far, or farther, than their 
 branches, and for their good the ground under 
 the fjavement and sidewalk should be supplied 
 w^ith a certain amount of moisture. 
 
192 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 "The arrangement made for the removal of 
 surface water from the street must also take care 
 of the surplus water from adjacent lots, so there 
 is a practical advantage in having the level of the 
 street lower than that of the ground adjoining. 
 The appearance of houses and home grounds is 
 also much better when they are higher than the 
 street, and for this reason it is usually desirable to 
 keep the latter as low as possible and give the 
 underground pipes sufficient covering to protect 
 them from frost. Where the ground is high and 
 the sewers very deep the grades should, of course, 
 be determined with reference to surface conditions 
 only. It sometimes happens that this general 
 arrangement of the grades of home grounds, 
 which is desirable on most accounts, causes water 
 from melting snow to flow over the sidewalk in 
 the winter time, where it may freeze and be dan- 
 gerous to pedestrians. A slight depression of the 
 lot away from the sidewalk and then an ascent 
 toward the house would usually remedy this diffi- 
 culty, and also make the house appear higher. 
 Sometimes, however, a pipe should be placed 
 underneath the sidewalk to allow water to reach 
 the street from inside of the lot line. The aim in 
 surface drainage should always be to keep the 
 traveled portions of the street in the most perfect 
 condition for use. The quick removal of surplus 
 water from sidewalks, crossings, and roadways 
 will help to insure this result." 
 
EDGES OF WALKS 193 
 
 These remarks concerning the curbings and 
 hard edges of city streets may also be applied to 
 walks and drives in small grounds. Fig. 170, for 
 example, shows the common method of treating 
 the edge of a walk, by making a sharp and sheer 
 elevation. This edge needs constant trimming, 
 else it becomes unshapely; and this trimming 
 tends to widen the walk. For general purposes, 
 a border, like that shown in Fig. 171, is better. 
 The sod rolls over until it meets the walk, and the 
 lawn-mower is able to keep it in condition. If 
 it becomes more or less rough and irregular, it is 
 pounded down. 
 
 If it is thought necessary to trim the edges of 
 walks and drives, then one of the various kinds 
 of sod -cutters which are sold by dealers may be 
 used for the purpose, or an old hoe may have its 
 shank straightened and the corners of the blade 
 rounded off, as shown in Fig. 172, and this will 
 answer all purposes of the common sod -cutter ; 
 or, a sharp, straight -edged spade may sometimes 
 be used. The loose overhanging grass on these 
 edges is ordinarily cut by large shears made for 
 the purpose. 
 
 Walks and drives should be laid in such direc- 
 tion that they will tend to di-ain themselves ; but 
 if it is necessary to have gutters, these should be 
 deep and sharp at the bottom, for the water then 
 draws together and tends to keep the gutter clean. 
 A shallow and rounded gutter does not clean 
 
 M 
 
194 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 itself; it is very apt to fill with weeds, and ve- 
 hicles often drive in it. Fig. 173 shows a catch- 
 basin at the left of a walk or drive, and the tile 
 laid underneath for the purpose of carrying away 
 the surface water. 
 
 The best materials for walks are cement, or 
 artificial stone, and flagging. In many soils, how- 
 ever, there is enough binding material in the land 
 
 170. The common type of Dorder for 
 walk or drive. 
 
 171. A better border. 
 
 172. Sod cutter. 
 
 to make a good walk without the addition of any 
 other material. Gravel, cinders, ashes, and the 
 like, are nearly always inadvisable, for they are 
 apt to be loose in dry weather and sticky in wet 
 weather. In the laying of artificial stone, it is 
 very important that the walk be well drained by 
 a layer of a foot or two of broken stone or brick- 
 
MAKING THE PLAN 195 
 
 bats, unless the walk is upon loose and leachy 
 land. In back yards, it is often best not to have 
 any well-defined walk. A ramble across the sod 
 may be as good. For a back walk, over which 
 deliverymen are to travel, one of the very best 
 means is to sink a foot -wide plank into the land 
 on a level with the surface of the sod; and it is 
 not necessary that the walk be perfectly straight. 
 These walks do not interfere with the work of the 
 lawn mower, and they take care of themselves. 
 When the plank rots, at the expiration of five 
 to ten years, the plank is taken up and another 
 
 V 
 
 173. Draining the gutter. 
 
 one dropped in its place. This ordinarily makes 
 the best kind of a walk alongside a rear border. 
 
 Making the plan. — It is often desirable to have 
 a definite plan on paper for the location of the 
 leading features of the place. These features are 
 the residence, the out -houses, the walks and 
 drives, the border planting, flower-garden, vege- 
 table garden and fruit garden. It should not be 
 expected that the map plan can be followed in 
 every detail, but it will serve as a general guide; 
 and if it is made upon a large enough scale, the 
 different kinds of plants can be located in their 
 
196 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 proper positions, and a record of the place be 
 kept. It is nearly alwaj^s unsatisfactory, for both 
 owner and designer, if a plan of the place is made 
 without a personal inspection of the area. Lines 
 which look well upon a map may not adjust them- 
 selves readily to the varying contours of the place 
 itself, and the location of the features inside the 
 
 174. Diagram of a back yard. 
 
 175. Plan of a rough area. 
 
 place w^ill depend also in a very large measure 
 upon the objects which lie outside it. For ex- 
 ample, all interesting and bold views should be 
 brought into the place, and all unsightly objects 
 in the immediate vicinity should be planted out. 
 Fig. 174 illustrates a plan of a back yard of a 
 narrow city lot, showing the heavy border plant- 
 ing of trees and shrubs, with the skirting border 
 of flowers. In the front are two large trees which 
 
MAPS AND PLANS 197 
 
 are desired for shade. It will readily be seen from 
 this plan how extensive the area for flowers be- 
 comes when they are placed upon such a devious 
 border. More color effect can be got from such 
 an arrangement of the flowers than could be 
 secured if the whole area were planted to flower- 
 beds. Fig. 175 illustrates a map plan of a very 
 rough piece of ground. The sides of the place 
 are high, and it becomes necessary to carry a walk 
 through the middle area; and upon either side of 
 the front, it skirts the banks. Such a plan is 
 usually unsightly on paper, but may nevertheless 
 fit special cases very well. The plan is inserted 
 here for the purpose of illustrating the fact that a 
 plan which will work upon the ground does not 
 necessarih' work upon a map. In charting a place, 
 it is important to locate the points from which the 
 walks are to start, and at which they are to emerge 
 from the grounds. These two points are then 
 joined bj- direct and simple curves, and alongside 
 the walks, especially in angles or bold curves, 
 planting may be inserted. 
 
 A suggestion for school premises upon a four- 
 corners, and which the pupils enter from three 
 directions, is made in Fig. 176. The two play- 
 grounds are separated by a broken group of 
 bushes extending from the building to the rear 
 boundary; but in general, the spaces are kept 
 open, and the heavy border -masses clothe the 
 place and make it home -like. The lineal extent 
 
198 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 of the group margins is astonishingly large, and 
 along all these margins flowers may be planted, if 
 desired . 
 
 If there is only six feet between a school -house 
 and the fence, there is still room for a border of 
 shrubs. This border should be between the walk 
 
 _J I 
 
 Ho&el 
 
 176. Suggestion for a school-ground upon a four corners. 
 
 and the fence, — on the very boundary, — not be- 
 tween the walk and the building, for in the latter 
 case the planting divides the premises and weakens 
 the effect. A space two feet wide will allow of 
 an irregular wall of bushes; and if the area is 
 one hundred feet long, thirty to fifty kinds of 
 shrubs and flowers can be grown to perfection, 
 
SCHOOL GROUNDS 199 
 
 and the school -grounds will be practically no 
 smaller for the plantation. In country districts 
 and large grounds, effects like that in Fig. 146 
 can be obtained with little trouble. If there is no 
 money with which to buy shrubs, they can be got 
 from adjacent woods and fields and gardens; and 
 such plants usually thrive best, because they are 
 hardy and well adapted to the region. One week's 
 well directed work in each year, by one man, 
 coupled with donations of plants from private 
 yards, could make every school -yard in the land 
 a little paradise. 
 
 Making a lawn. — The first thing to do in mak- 
 ing a lawn is to establish the proper grade. This 
 should be done with the greatest care, from the 
 fact that when a lawn is once made, its level and 
 contour should never be changed. The next im- 
 portant step is to prepare the ground deeply and 
 thoroughly. The permanence of the sod will 
 depend very largely upon the richness and prepa- 
 ration of the soil in the beginning. The soil 
 should be deep and porous, so that the roots will 
 strike far into it, and be enabled thereby to with- 
 stand droughts and cold winters. The best means 
 of deepening the soil, as already explained, is by 
 tile -draining, but it can also be done by the use 
 of the subsoil plow and by trenching. Since 
 the lawn cannot be refitted, however, the subsoil 
 is apt to fall back into a hard-pan in a few years 
 if it has been subsoiled or trenched, whereas a 
 
200 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 tile drain affords a permanent amelioration of the 
 under soil. Soils which are naturally loose and 
 porous may not need this extra attention. In 
 fact, lands which are very loose and sandy may 
 require to be packed or cemented rather than 
 loosened. One of the best means of doing this 
 is to fill them with humus, so that the water will 
 not leach through them rapidly. Nearly all lands 
 which are designed for lawns are greatlj^ benefited 
 by heavy dressings of manure thoroughly worked 
 into them in the beginning. 
 
 The first grading operation is the plowing of 
 the surface. If the area is large enough to admit 
 a team, the surface is worked down by means 
 of harrows of various kinds. Afterwards it is 
 leveled by means of shovels and hoes, and finally 
 by garden rakes. The more finely and completely 
 the soil is pulverized, the quicker the lawn may be 
 obtained, and the more permanent are the results. 
 
 The best grass for the body or foundation of 
 lawns in the North is June -grass or Kentucky 
 blue grass (Poa pratensis) . Inasmuch as we de- 
 sire to obtain many very fine stalks of grass 
 rather than a few large ones, it is essential that 
 the seed be sown very thick. Pains should also 
 be taken to distribute the seed evenly over the 
 area, thereby avoiding bare and weedy spots. 
 From three to four bushels to the acre is the 
 ordinary application of grass seed. The question 
 as to whether white clover or other seed should 
 
MAKING A LAWN 201 
 
 be sown with the grass seed, is very largely a 
 personal one, depending upon whether the owner 
 wants white clover in his lawn or not. Some 
 persons like it, and others do not. If it is de- 
 sired, it may be sown directly after the grass 
 seed is sown, at the rate of one to three quarts 
 to the acre. For particular purposes and for 
 personal tastes, various other grasses may be used 
 for lawns. Various kinds of lawn mixtures are 
 upon the market. 
 
 In most cases, the June- grass germinates and 
 grows somewhat slowl}', and it is generally advis- 
 able to sow four or five quarts of timothy grass to 
 the acre with the June -grass seed. The timoth}^ 
 comes on quickly and makes a green the first year, 
 and the June- grass soon crowds it out. It is not 
 advisable, as a rule, to sow grain in the lawn as a 
 nurse to the grass. If the land is well prepared 
 and the seed is sown in the cool part of the year, 
 the grass ought to grow much better without the 
 other crops than with them. Lands which are 
 hard and lacking in nitrogen may be benefited if 
 four or five quarts of crimson clover are sown with 
 the grass seed. This will make a green the first 
 year, and will break up the subsoil by its deep 
 roots and supply nitrogen, and being an an- 
 nual plant it does not become troublesome. In 
 the southern states, where June -grass does not 
 thrive, Bermuda -grass is the leading species used 
 for lawns; although there are two or three others. 
 
202 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 like the goose-grass of Florida, which may be used 
 in special localities. 
 
 The lawn should be seeded when the land is 
 moist and the weather comparatively cool. It is 
 ordinarily most advisable to grade the lawn in late 
 summer or early fall, because the land is then 
 comparatively dry and can be moved cheaply. 
 The surface can also be got in condition, per- 
 haps, for sowing late in September or early in 
 October in the North; or, if the surface has re- 
 quired much filling, it is well to leave it in a 
 somewhat unfinished state until spring, in order 
 that the soft places may settle and then be refilled 
 before the seeding is done. If the seed can be 
 sown early in the fall, before the rains come, 
 the grass should be large enough, except in 
 northernmost localities, to withstand the winter; 
 but it is generally most desirable to sow in very 
 early spring. If the land has been thoroughly 
 prepared in the fall, the seed may be sown on 
 one of the late light snows in spring, and as the 
 snow melts the seed is carried into the land, and 
 germinates very quickly. If the seed is sown 
 when the land is loose and workable, it should be 
 raked in; and if the weather promises to be dry, 
 perhaps the surface should be rolled. 
 
 The lawn will ordinarily produce a heavy crop 
 of weeds the first year, especially if much stable 
 manure has been used. The weeds need not be 
 pulled, unless such vicious inti^uders as docks or 
 
WEEDS IN LAWNS 203 
 
 other perennial plants gain a foothold; but the 
 area should be mown frequently with a lawn- 
 mower. The weeds, being annuals, will die at the 
 approach of cold, and they are kept down by the 
 use of the lawn-mower, while the grass is not 
 injured. As soon as the grass begins to fill the 
 land, the weeds are crowded out. It rarelj^ 
 happens that every portion of the lawn will have 
 an equal catch of grass. The bare or sparsely 
 seeded places should be sown again every fall and 
 spring until the lawn is finally complete. 
 
 Lawns which have a heavy cover of sod are 
 rarely troubled with weeds. It is commonly said 
 that weeds run out the grass; the fact is that grass 
 is run out by poor soil, insufficient seeding, care- 
 less preparation of the land, or some other fault, 
 and the weeds take the opportunity to fill the 
 vacant places. The proper way to keep the weeds 
 out of the lawn, therefore, is not primarily to pull 
 the weeds, but to put in more grass. If a dande- 
 lion is pulled, the hole must be filled or some weed 
 may grow therein. The remedy, therefore, is to 
 rake over the thin places vigorously with a steel 
 garden rake, apply commercial fertilizers, and sow 
 more grass seed; and this, as a rule, will correct 
 the difficulty. Lawns of several acres which be- 
 come thin and mossy may be treated in essentially 
 the same way by dragging them with a spike-tooth 
 harrow in early spring as soon as the land is 
 dry enough to hold a team. Chemical fertilizers 
 
204 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 and grass seed are now sown liberally, and the 
 area is perhaps dragged again, although this is not 
 always essential; and then the roller is applied to 
 bring the surface into a smooth condition. To 
 plow up these poor lawns is to renew all the battle 
 with weeds, and really to make no progress; for, 
 so long as the contour is correct, the lawn may be 
 repaired by these surface applications. If lawns 
 are to be kept in the very best condition it is 
 usually necessary, in this country, to patch them 
 ever}' year by this method of re -seeding. 
 
 The mowing of the lawn should begin as soon 
 as the grass is tall enough in the spring, and con- 
 tinue at the necessary intervals throughout the 
 summer. The most frequent mowings are needed 
 early in the season, when the grass is growing 
 rapidly. If it is mown frequently — say once or 
 twice a week — in the periods of most vigorous 
 growth, it will not be necessary to rake off the 
 mowings. In fact, it is preferable to leave the 
 grass upon the lawn, to be driven into the surface 
 by the rains and to afford a mulch. It is only 
 when the lawn has been neglected and the grass 
 has got so high that it becomes unsightly upon the 
 lawn, that it is necessary to take it off. The grass 
 should be rather long when it goes into the winter ^ 
 The last two months of open weather are times in 
 which the grass makes comparatively small growth, 
 and it tends to lop down and to cover the surface 
 densely, which it should be allowed to do. The 
 
RAKING LAWNS 205 
 
 best lawn mowers, in the writer's opinion, are those 
 with large wheels and which cut very wide swaths. 
 In his own practice, he uses no machine which 
 cuts less than eighteen inches. 
 
 As a rule, it is not necessary to rake the leaves 
 off lawns in the fall. They afford an excellent 
 mulch, and during the autumn months the leaves 
 upon the lawn are among the handsomest features 
 of the landscape. The leaves generally blow off 
 after a time, and if the place has been constructed 
 with an open center and heavily planted sides, 
 the leaves will be caught in these masses of trees 
 and shrubs and there afford an excellent mulch. 
 The ideal landscape planting, therefore, takes care 
 of itself to a very large extent. It is bad economy 
 to burn the leaves, especially if one has her- 
 baceous borders, roses and other plants which 
 need a mulch. When the leaves are taken off the 
 borders in the spring, they should be piled with 
 the manure or other refuse and there allow to pass 
 into compost. (Pages 115, 116.) 
 
 If the land has been well prepared in the begin- 
 ning, it is ordinarily unnecessary to cover the 
 lawn with manure in the fall. The common prac- 
 tice of covering grass with manure should be dis- 
 couraged because the material is unsightly and 
 unsavory, and the same results can be got with 
 the use of commercial fertilizers and by not raking 
 the lawn too clean of the mowings of the grass. 
 
 The common watering of lawns by means of 
 
206 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 lawn sprinklers usually does more harm than good. 
 This results from the fact that the watering is 
 generally done in clear weather, and the water is 
 thrown through the air in very fine spray, so that 
 a considerable part of it is lost in vapor. The 
 ground is also hot, and the water does not pass 
 deep into the soil. If the lawn is watered at all, 
 it should be soaked; turn on the hose at nightfall 
 and let it run until the land is wet as deep as 
 it is dry, then move the hose to another place. 
 A thorough soaking like this, once or twice in a 
 dry summer, will do more good than sprinkling 
 every day. If the land is deeply prepared in the 
 first place, so that the roots strike far into the 
 soil, there is rarely need of watering unless the 
 place is arid or the season unusually dry. The 
 surface watering by means of lawn sprinklers 
 engenders a tendency for the roots to start near 
 the surface, and therefore the more the lawn is 
 watered, the greater is the necessity for it. 
 
 Every spring the lawn should be . firmed by 
 means of a roller, or if the area is small, by 
 means of a pounder or the back of a spade in the 
 hands of a vigorous man. The lawn-mower itself 
 tends to pack the surface. If there are little 
 irregularities in the surface, caused by depres- 
 sions of an inch or so, and the highest places 
 are not above the contour -line of the lawn, the 
 surface may be brought to level by spreading 
 fine, mellow soil over it, thereby filling up the 
 
SODDING LAWNS 207 
 
 depressions. The grass will quickly grow through 
 this soil. 
 
 Persons who desire to get a lawn very quickly 
 may sod the area rather than seed it. Sodding, 
 however, is expensive, and is to be used only about 
 the borders of the place, near buildings, or in 
 areas in which the owner can afford to expend 
 considerable money. The best sod is that which 
 is secured from an old pasture, and for two or 
 three reasons. In the first place, it is the right 
 kind of grass, the June -grass being the 'species 
 which oftenest runs into pastures and crowds out 
 other plants. Again, it has been so closely eaten 
 down, especially if it has been pastured bj^ sheep, 
 that it has made a very dense and well -filled sod, 
 which can be rolled up in thin layers. In the 
 third place, the surface soil in such old pastures is 
 likely to be rich from the droppings of animals. 
 
 In taking sod, it is important that it be cut 
 ver}^ thin. An inch and a half thick is usually 
 ample. It is ordinarily rolled up in strips which 
 are a foot wide and of any length which will 
 allow the rolls to be handled by one or two men. 
 A foot -wide board is laid upon the turf, and 
 the sod cut along either edge of it. One person 
 then stands upon the strip of sod and rolls it to- 
 wards himself while another cuts it loose with a 
 spade, as shown in Fig. 177. When the sod is 
 laid, it is unrolled upon the land and then firmly 
 beaten down. Land which is to be sodded should 
 
208 
 
 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 be soft on top, so that the sod can be well pounded 
 into it. If the sod is not well pounded down, it 
 will settle unevenly and present a bad surface, 
 and will also dry out, and perhaps not live through 
 a dry spell. It is almost impossible to pound 
 down sod too firm. If the land is freshly plowed, 
 it is important that the borders which are sodded 
 be an inch or two lower than the adjacent land, 
 because that land will settle in the course of a 
 
 177. Cuttiug sod. 
 
 few weeks. If it is necessary to do sodding in 
 a dry time, the sod may be covered from a half 
 inch to an inch deep with fine, mellow soil as a 
 mulch, to prevent it from drying out. The grass 
 will grow through this soil without difficulty. 
 Upon terraces and steep banks, the sod may be 
 held in place by driving wooden pegs through it. 
 
 Lawns may be sown with pieces of sods rather 
 than with seeds. Sods may be cut up into bits 
 an inch or two square and these can be scattered 
 
SODDING LAWNS 
 
 209 
 
 broadcast over the area and rolled into the land. 
 While it is preferable that these pieces should lie 
 right side up, it is not necessary that they should, 
 if they are cut thin, and if they are sown when 
 the weather is cool and moist. Sowing pieces of 
 sod is a most excellent practice in lands in which 
 it is difficult to secure a catch from seed. 
 
 . • >' • i' ,' V^^''ppm7?Fp^w>^T-tf III ' mTB iV/i/! / ^ *./jV( ! >O K' ^,'i'i^ )' ' .'j ",M' ^'777VS '' I" , '-? v "' ;i ' " Hf ; ■ -< ; 
 
 178. Economical sodding. 
 
 An " economical sodding" is described in Ameri- 
 can Garden (Fig. 178): "To obtain sufficient 
 sod of suitable quality for covering terrace -slopes 
 or small blocks that for any reason cannot well be 
 seeded, is often a difficult matter. In the accom- 
 panying illustration we show how a surface of sod 
 may be used to good advantage over a larger area 
 than its real measurement represents. This is 
 done by laying the sods, cut in strips from six to 
 ten inches wide, in lines and cross -lines, and after 
 filling the spaces with good soil, sowing these 
 spaces with grass -seed. Should the catch of seed 
 for any reason be poor, the sod of the strips will 
 tend to spread over the spaces between them, and 
 
210 THE PLAN OF THE PLACE 
 
 failure to obtain a good sward within a reasonable 
 time is almost out of the question. On the other 
 hand, if one needs sod and has no place from 
 which to cut it except the lawn, by taking up 
 blocks of sod, leaving strips and cross -strips, and 
 treating the surface as described above, the bare 
 places left are soon covered with green." 
 
 Under trees, and in other shady places, it may 
 be necessary to cover the ground with something 
 else than grass. Good plants for such uses are 
 periwinkle ( Vinca minor, an evergreen trailer, 
 often called "running myrtle"), monej^wort {Ly- 
 simacJiia nummular ia) , lily -of -the -valley, and 
 various kinds of sedge or carex. 
 
Section III 
 
 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 In choosing the kinds of plants, the gardener 
 should carefully distinguish two categories, — those 
 to compose the structural masses and design of 
 the place, and those which are to be used for mere 
 ornament. The chief merits to be sought in the 
 former are good foliage, pleasing form and va- 
 rious habit, shades of green, and color of winter 
 twigs. The merits of the latter lie chiefly in 
 flowers or colored foliage. 
 
 Each of these categories should be again di- 
 vided. Of plants for the main design, there 
 may be a list of trees for a windbreak, another of 
 trees for shade, another of shrubs for screens or 
 heavy plantings, another for the lighter side plant- 
 ings, and another for incidental masses about the 
 buildings or on the lawn, and perhaps another of 
 vines for porches and arbors and evergreens, and 
 also for hedges. The lists on pages 221 to 240 
 will ^9 «i""'gestive. 
 
 Plants used for mere embellishment or orna- 
 mentation ma}' be ranged into categories for 
 permanent herbaceous borders, for display beds, 
 ribbon edgings, annuals for temporary effects, 
 
 (2]l) 
 
212 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 foliage beds, plants for adding color and emphasis 
 to the shrubbery masses, and plants desired to be 
 grown as isolated specimens or as curiosities. 
 
 It is always legitimate, and, in fact, desirable, 
 to plant for immediate effect. One may plant 
 very thickly of rapid -growing trees and shrubs 
 for this purpose. It is a fact, however, that very 
 rapid -growing trees usually lack strong or artis- 
 tic character. Other and better trees should be 
 planted with them, and the insipid and rapid- 
 growing kinds be gradually removed. These re- 
 marks apply with particular force to summer re- 
 sorts and pleasure grounds, at which there is a 
 great tendency to secure quick effects by profuse 
 planting of willows and poplars. These trees al- 
 ways look cheap and characterless. Maples, elms, 
 oaks, catalpas, or other trees, should be planted 
 with the willows or poplars, and eventually only 
 an occasional specimen of the nurse -planted wil- 
 lows and poplars should remain. That is, in the 
 completed picture, willows, poplars and the like, 
 should be only incidents. (See, also, pages 152, 
 153.) 
 
 Some of the silver or white -leaved poplars pro- 
 duce the most striking contrasts of foliage, espe- 
 cially if set near darker trees, and for this reason 
 they are much desired by many planters. Bolle's 
 poplar {Fopuliis Bolleana of the nurseries) is one 
 of the best of these trees. Its habit is something 
 like that of the Lombardy. The upper surface of 
 
IMMEDIATE EFFECTS 213 
 
 the deeply lobed leaves is dark, dull green, while 
 the under surface is almost snowy white. Such 
 emphatic trees as this should generally be par- 
 tially obscured by planting them amongst other 
 trees, so that they appear to mix with the other 
 foliage; or else they should be seen at some dis- 
 tance. Other varieties of the common white pop- 
 lar or abele are occasionally useful, although most 
 of them sprout badly and may become a nuisance. 
 But the planting of these immodest trees is so 
 likel}' to be overdone that I scarcely dare recom- 
 mend them, although, when skilfully used, they 
 may be made to produce most excellent effects. 
 If any reader has a particular fondness for trees 
 of this class (or any others with woolly -white 
 foliage) and if he has only an ordinary city lot or 
 farm -yard to ornament, let him reduce his desires 
 to a single tree, and then if that tree is planted 
 in the interior of a group of other trees, no 
 harm can result! 
 
 However much the planter may plan for imme- 
 diate effects, the beauty of trees and shrubs comes 
 with maturity and age, and this beauty is often 
 delayed, or even obliterated, by shearing and ex- 
 cessive heading -back. At first, bushes are stiff 
 and erect, but when they obtain their full charac- 
 ter they droop or roll over to meet the sward. 
 Some bushes make mounds of green much sooner 
 than others which may be even closely related. 
 Thus the common yellow- bell, Forsythia viridis- 
 
214 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 siwa, remains stiff and hard for some years, 
 whereas F. suspensa makes a rolling heap of green 
 in two or three years. Quick, informal effects can 
 also be obtained by the use of Hall's Japanese 
 honeysuckle (Lonicera Halliana of nurserymen), 
 an evergreen in the South and holding its leaves 
 until midwinter or later in the North. It may be 
 used for covering a rock, a pile of rubbish, a 
 stump (Fig. 179), to fill a corner against a foun- 
 dation, or it may be trained on a porch or arbor. 
 There is a form with yellow -veined leaves. Bosa 
 Wiclmriana, and some of the dewberries, are use- 
 ful for covering rough places. 
 
 Many vines, which are commonly used for 
 porches and arbors, may be used also for the bor- 
 ders of shrub -plantations and for covering rough 
 banks and rocks. Such vines, among others, are 
 various kinds of clematis, Virginia creeper, ac- 
 tinidia, akebia, trumpet creeper, periploca, bitter- 
 sweet {Bolanum Dulcamara)^ wax -work (Celas- 
 trus scandens) . 
 
 For hedges, either evergreens or deciduous trees 
 and shrubs may be used. Of common evergreens, 
 the various kinds of arborvitae, native hemlock, 
 and the retinosporas, may be used. They stand 
 cutting well. Privet (particularly the so-called 
 Californian), mahonia, box and Citrus trifoliata 
 are also either evergreen or partially so, depending 
 somewhat upon the region in which they are 
 grown. Mahonia and box are true evergreens, and 
 
;-f!fi«^» 
 
 
 179. Stump covered with Japanese honeysuckle. 
 
216^ PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 are also adapted for low hedges and edgings. The 
 citrus is hard}' as far north as Washington in pro- 
 tected places, and in some cases even farther. 
 For hedges, plants should be set as close as two 
 feet or less, and they should be rigidly headed -in 
 even from the first, in order to develop a thick bot- 
 tom growth. For deciduous hedges, osage orange, 
 buckthorn, pyracantha, locust, and various other 
 plants may be used. 
 
 Coniferous evergreens — as pines, spruces, cedars 
 — may be planted in fall, spring or summer. There 
 is much diiference of opinion as to the proper sea- 
 son, which only means that the transplanting may 
 be done in various seasons. The writer has had 
 best success in transplanting them late in spring, 
 when the new growth is beginning, especially 
 when he can choose a rainy or moist time. As a 
 rule, evergreens are not trimmed upon being trans- 
 planted; but if the top seems to be very large in 
 proportion to the root, the branches may be 
 headed -in a few inches. In transplanting ever- 
 greens from the wild into sunny places, it is well 
 to choose those which naturally grow in the sun. 
 This is particularly important with the hemlock. 
 
 The verdurous beauty of spruces, hemlocks and 
 firs may be much prolonged if a few inches of the 
 tips of the strongest branches be cut off every 
 year or two. This treatment induces a thick 
 growth of the top, while it is not severe enough to 
 reduce the tree to a formal figure. Even the 
 
PLANTING HINTS 217 
 
 leader may be cut if the tree tends to grow too 
 tall and open, and a new leader will soon take its 
 place. Spruces which have become very open and 
 ragged may be severely headed -back, and the 
 interior of the top will finally feather out and fill 
 up. Of course, the lower limbs should never be 
 removed from spruces, for the beauty of the tree 
 lies in its pyramidal and half -formal figure. 
 
 A few trees and shrubs demand a special prep- 
 aration of the land. This is true of the hardy 
 rhododendrons, and, to some extent, of kalmias 
 and andromedas (pages 227, 231). They thrive 
 best in a soil containing much leaf -mold. It is 
 a good practice to remove the soil to a depth of 
 two feet and fill the place with woods earth. In 
 the North, rhododendrons should be partially 
 screened from winter and spring suns by planting 
 them near or among deciduous trees. 
 
 In the planting of any kind of trees, it is well 
 to remember that nurserj' - grown specimens gen- 
 erally transplant more readily and thrive better 
 than trees taken from the wild; and this is par- 
 ticularly true if the stock was transplanted in the 
 nursery. Trees which transplant with difficult}^ 
 as the papaw or asimina, and some nut trees, may 
 be prepared for removal by cutting some of their 
 roots, — and especially the tap-root, if they have 
 such, — a year or two in advance. 
 
 In making borders of flowers, the most satisfac- 
 tory results are obtained if a large clump of each 
 
219 
 
 kind or variety is grown. 
 Some of the most effective 
 ])orders are those which 
 are filled with miscellan- 
 eous perennial herbs taken 
 at odd times from fields 
 and woods. The her- 
 baceous border is one of 
 the most flexible parts of 
 grounds, since it has no 
 regular or formal design. 
 Allow ample space for each 
 perennial root,— often as 
 much as three or four 
 square feet,— and then if 
 the space is not filled the 
 first year or two, scatter 
 over the area seeds of pop- 
 pies, sweet peas, asters, 
 gilias. alyssum, or other an- 
 nuals. Prepare the ground 
 well in the beginning, tak- 
 ing particular care to make 
 it deep, and mulch liberally 
 every fall. Even peren- 
 nials usually bloom better 
 when not more than two or 
 three years planted, and 
 the grower must expect, 
 therefore, to renew or 
 
220 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 change the clumps from time to time, if they show 
 signs of failing. Figs. 180-182, from Long (Pop- 
 ular Gardening, i., 17, 18, from which journal, 
 now discontinued many pictures in this volume 
 are taken), suggest methods of making such bor- 
 ders. They are on a scale of ten feet to the inch. 
 The entire surface is tilled, and the irregular dia- 
 grams designate the sizes of the clumps. The 
 diagrams containing no names are to be filled 
 with bulbs, annuals and tender plants. 
 
 LIST OF ORNAMENTAL PLANTS WHICH ABE 
 HABDY IN CENTRAL MICHIGAN 
 
 The following list was made some years ago for 
 use in the author's classes in the Agricultural Col- 
 lege of Michigan. It is now revised, and is be- 
 lieved to contain the greater part of the desirable 
 trees and shrubs which are hardy in the northern- 
 most states, although it is not intended to be 
 complete. The notes were originall}- the result of 
 several years' observation upon the large collection 
 of plants growing upon the grounds of the Agri-' 
 cultural College, at Lansing. The winters there 
 are severe, the thermometer occasionally register- 
 ing twenty degrees below zero, and sometimes even 
 a lower temperature. In the following list the 
 plants are arranged somewhat in the order of 
 merit, as they appeal to the author. The species 
 of each genus are intended to be strictly so ar- 
 ranged. The home-maker will know which of the 
 native trees of his region are valuable for planting 
 
HARDY TREES 221 
 
 as single specimens on the lawn or roadside for 
 purposes of shade ; some of the best for this pur- 
 pose in the following list are marked with a dag- 
 ger (t). Those plants marked with an asterisk 
 (*) are native to Michigan. 
 
 I. Trees for Windbreaks, or Shelter Belts. 
 
 White pine, Pinus Strohus* 
 Austrian pine, P. Austriaca. 
 Scotch pine, P. sylvcstris. 
 Red pine, P. resinosa.* 
 Norway spruce, Picea excelsa. 
 Any of the rapidly growing, native forest trees, especially; 
 American elm, Ulmus Americana.^'t 
 Sugar maple, Acer saccharinum^t and var. nigrum.*^ 
 Basswood, Tilia Americana *'t 
 Cottonwood, Populus moniUfera.* 
 Balsam poplar, P. halsamifera.* 
 Balm of Gilead, P. halsar.iifera var. candicans* 
 Wild black cherry, Prunus serotina* 
 Box- elder, Negundo aceroides.* 
 
 II. Trees for Groups or Single Specimens. 
 A. Deciduous Trees. 
 
 Norway maple, Acer platanoides ."[ 
 
 One of the finest trees for single lawn specimens, especially in tranquil 
 scenes. It droops too much and is too low-headed for roadside planting. 
 Black sugar maple, A. saccharinuni var. nigrum *'\ 
 
 Darker and softer in aspect than the ordinary sugar maple. 
 Sugar maple, A. saccharinuni. ^'\ 
 
 This and the last are the best roadside trees. 
 Wier's cut-leaved silver maple, A. dasycarpum, hort. var. 
 
 Light and graceful. Especially desirable for pleasure grounds. 
 Silver maple, A. dasycarpum. ^t 
 
 Desirable for water-courses and for grouping. Succeeds on both 
 wet and dry lands. 
 
222 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Red, soft, or swamp maple, A. ruhrum* 
 
 Valuable for its spring and autumn colors, and for variety in grouping. 
 
 Sycamore maple, A. Pseudo-platanus. 
 
 A slow grower, to be tised mostly as single specimens. 
 
 American elm, Ulmus Americana .^t 
 
 One of the most graceful and variable of trees; useful for many 
 purposes. 
 
 Cork elm, U. racemosa/'^ 
 
 Softer in aspect than the last, and more picturesque in winter, having 
 prominent ridges of bark on its branches. Slow grower. 
 
 Red, or slippery elm, U. fulva.* 
 
 Occasionally useful in a group or shelter-belt. A stiff and straggling 
 grower. 
 
 European silver linden. Til ia argentea and varieties {T.alba).t 
 Very handsome. Leaves silvery white beneath. Among others, is a 
 weeping variety. 
 
 American linden or basswood, Tilia Americana. ^t 
 
 Very valuable for single trees on large lawns, or for roadsides. 
 
 European linden, T. Europoea, and varieties.! 
 Has the general character of the American basswood. 
 
 Tulip tree or whitewood, Liriodendron TuUpifera^f 
 
 Valuable for the southern half of the Lower Peninsula. Unique in 
 foliage and flower. 
 
 Cucumber tree, MagyioUa acuminata.'\ 
 Not reliable north of Lansing. Handsome. 
 
 Yellow- wood, or Virgilia, Cladrastis tinctoria. 
 The finest hardy flowering tree. 
 
 Swamp white oak, Quercus bicolor.*t 
 
 A very desirable tree, usually neglected. Very picturesque in winter. 
 The oaks are slow growers and usually transplant with difficulty. 
 Natural specimens are most valuable. A large, well-grown oak is one 
 of the grandest of trees. 
 
 Bur oak, Q. macrocarpa*t 
 
 Chestnut oak, Q. Prinus,*t and especially the common var. 
 
 acuminata (or Q. Muhlenbergii] .^t 
 White oak, Q. alba^f 
 Shingle oak, Q. imbricaria^f 
 
 r 
 
HARDY TREES 223 
 
 Scarlet oak, Q. coccinea.^'t 
 
 This and the next two are glossy-leaved, and are desirable for gay 
 scenes. 
 Black oak, Q. tinGtoria*'\ 
 Red oak, Q. ruhra.^t 
 
 Pepperidge or gum-tree, Nifssa niultiflora* 
 
 One of the oddest and most picturesque of our native trees. Espe- 
 cially attractive in winter. Foliage brilliant red in autumn. Most 
 suitable for low lands. 
 
 Horse chestnut, ^sculus Hipjmcastanum.t 
 Useful for single specimens and roadsides. 
 
 Showy catalpa, Catalpa speciosa.f 
 
 Very dark, soft-foliaged tree of small to medium size. Showy in 
 flower. To be used as single specimens. 
 
 Smaller catalpa, C. bignonioides .f 
 
 Less showy than the last, blooming a week or two later. Less hardy. 
 
 Black ash, Fraxinus samhiicifolia.*^ 
 
 One of the best of the light leaved trees. Does well on dry soils, 
 although native to swamps. Not appreciated. 
 
 White ash, F. Americana. *'\ 
 
 Kentucky cofifee-tree, Crymnocladus Canadensis.* 
 
 Light and graceful. Unique in winter. 
 Bitter-nut, Hicoria minima, or Carija amara.* 
 
 Much like black ash in aspect. Not appreciated. 
 Hickory, Hicoria ovata, or Carya alba, and others.* 
 
 Useful in remote groups or belts. 
 Cut- leaved weeping birch, Betula alba, hort. var. 
 
 The finest of gay trees. To be used sparingly as single specimens. 
 Cut- leaved birch, B. alba, hort. var. 
 European birch, B. alba. 
 American white birch, B. populifolia. 
 Paper, or Canoe birch, B. papyrifera.* 
 Purple birch, B. alba, hort. var. 
 
 Cherry birch, B. lenta.* 
 
 Well grown specimens resemble the sweet cherry. Both this and the 
 next make attractive light leaved trees. They are not appreciated. 
 
 Yellow birch, B. lutea.* 
 
224 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Aspen, Populus tremuloides* 
 
 Very valuable when well grown. Too much neglected. Most of the 
 poplars are suitable for pleasure grounds, and as nurses for slower 
 growing and more emphatic trees. (Pages 152, 153, 213.) 
 Large-toothed aspen, P. gra7ididentata* 
 
 Unique in summer color. Heavier in aspect than the last. Old trees 
 become ragged. 
 Weeping poplar, P. grandklentata, hort. var. pendula. 
 
 An odd, small tree, suitable f6r small places, but, like all weeping 
 trees, apt to be planted too freely. 
 Cottonwood, P. Dionilifcra* 
 
 Desirable in a group or near water. The staminate specimens, only, 
 should be planted if possible, as the cotton of the seed-pods is dis- 
 agreeable when carried by winds. 
 Balm of Gilead, P. haJsamifera^ and var. candicans* 
 
 Desirable for remote groups or belts. Foliage not pleasant in color. 
 
 Lombardy poplar, P. nigra, var. Italica. 
 
 Desirable for certain piirposes, but used too indiscriminately. It is 
 apt to be short-lived in this climate. 
 Bolle's poplar, P. alba, var. Bolleana. 
 
 Habit much like the Lombardy. Leaves curiously lobed, very white be 
 neath, making a pleasant contrast. Evidently hardy at Lansing. (P. 212.) 
 
 Locust, Eohinia Pseudacacia.'t 
 
 Should be planted at some distance from the dwelling. Useful in 
 
 grouping. Attractive in flower. Handsome as single specimens when 
 
 young. 
 Honey locust, Gleditschia triacanthos *\ 
 
 Like the last, this should be planted rather remote from the residence, 
 or near the borders. The foliage of both is light. 
 Beech, Fagus ferruginea*'\ 
 
 Specimens which are symmetrically developed are among our best 
 lawn trees. Pictui'esque in winter. 
 Chestnut, Castanea vescaf and var. Americana. *'t 
 Plane or Buttonwood, Platanus occidentalism^ 
 
 Young or middle-aged trees are:soft and pleasant in aspect, but they 
 soon become thin and ragged below. Most desirable in belts. Unique 
 in winter. 
 
 Sassafras, Sassafras officmalismf 
 
 Suitable in the borders of groups or for single specimens. Peculiar 
 in winter. Too much neglected. 
 
HARDY TREES 225 
 
 Maiden-hair tree, Ginkgo hiloha. 
 
 Very odd and striking. To be used for single specimens. 
 Rowan or European mountain ash, Fyrus Aucuparia. 
 
 Peach- leaved willow, Salix amygdaloides.* 
 
 Very handsome small tree, deserving more attention. This and the 
 next valuable in low places or along water courses. 
 
 Black willow, S. nigra* 
 
 Weeping willow, S. Bdbylonica. 
 
 To be planted sparingly, 'preferably near water. The sort known as 
 the Wisconsin weeping willow appears to be much hardier than the 
 common type. 
 
 White willow, S. alba, and various varieties, one of which 
 is the golden willow. 
 May be used sparingly. Tree willows are most valuable, as a rule, when 
 used for temporary plantations or as nurses for better trees. (P. 212.) 
 
 Wild black cherry, Prunus serotina* 
 
 Nettle-tree, Celtis occidentalis.* 
 
 Box-elder, Negundo aceroides* 
 
 Very hardy and rapid-growing. Much used in the West as a wind- 
 break, but not strong in ornamental features. 
 
 European larch, Larix Europcea. 
 
 American larch or tamarack, L. Americana.* 
 
 Bald cypress, Taxodium distichum. 
 
 Not entirely hardy at Lansing. Generally becomes scraggly after 
 fifteen or twenty years. 
 
 Butternut, Jiiglans cinerea* 
 
 Walnut, J. nigra.* 
 
 Ailanthus, Ailanthns glandulosus. 
 
 A rapid grower, with large pinnate leaves. The staminate plant 
 possesses a disagreeable odor when it flowers. Suckers badly. Most 
 useful as a shrub. See the same under Shnabs (page 234; also Fig. 1.^)7). 
 
 B. Coniferous Evergreens. 
 
 Norway spruce, Picea excelsa. 
 
 Loses much of its peculiar beauty when thirty to fifty years of age. 
 (See page 217.) 
 
 O 
 
226 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 White spruce, P. alba* 
 
 One of the finest of the spruces. A more compact grower than the 
 last, and not so coarse. Grows slowly. 
 
 Oriental spruce, P. orientalis. 
 
 Especially valuable from its habit of holding its lowest limbs. Grows 
 slowly. 
 Blue fir, Colorado blue spruce, P. pungens. 
 
 In color probably the finest of the conifers. Grows slowly. Varies 
 in blueness. 
 Nordmann's fir, Abies Nordmanniana. 
 
 Balsam fir, A. balsamea.* 
 
 Loses most of its beauty in fifteen or twenty years. 
 
 Hemlock spruce, Tsuga Canadensis * 
 
 Young and well-grown specimens are the most graceful of our ever- 
 greens. In the West, if given some protection from the sun it does bet- 
 ter. Should therefore be planted near large trees. (See page 216.) 
 
 Arbor vitse. Thuja occidentaUs .* 
 
 Becomes unattractive after ten or fifteen years, especially on poor soils. 
 Cembrian pine, Pinns Cembra. 
 
 A very fine slow-growing tree. One of the few standard pines suit- 
 able for small places. 
 White pine, P. Strobus* 
 Scotch pine, P. sylvestris. 
 
 Red pine, P. resinosa* 
 
 Vakiable in groups and belts. Not sufficiently known. Usually 
 called "Norway pine." Rather heavy in expression. 
 
 Scrub pine, P. Banksiana* 
 
 A small tree, more picturesque than beautiful. Desirable. 
 
 Red cedar, Jimiperus Virginiana.* 
 
 III. Shrubs and very Small Trees, not Scandent. 
 A. Deciduous, or Broad -leaved if Evergreen. 
 Many rapid -growing trees may be utilized as shrubs by 
 cutting them off near the ground every year, or every other 
 year, and allowing young shoots to grow. Basswood, black 
 ash, some of the maples, tulip tree, mulberry, and others, 
 may be treated in this manner. (Fig. 157.) 
 
183. Spiraea hypericifolia. 
 
228 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Wild laurel, Ealmia latifolia. 
 
 Ericaceoiis evergreen. Thekalmias and rhododendrons are among the 
 choicest of shrubs. They require a rather peaty soil and a somewhat 
 shaded situation, especially in winter (page 217). 
 
 Rhododendron, Ehododendron Catawbiense, garden varieties. 
 
 Styrax, Styrax Japoyiica. 
 
 One of the most graceful of flowering shrubs. It may not be hardy 
 northward. 
 
 Common snowball, Viburnum Opulus.^ 
 
 The cultivated sort is a native of the Old World, but the species grows 
 
 wild in Michigan (known as High-bush Cranberry), and is worthy of 
 
 cultivation. 
 Japanese snowball, V. pUcatum (properly V. tomentosum) . 
 
 Common lilac, Syringa viilgaris. 
 
 Josika lilac, S. Josikcea. 
 
 Persian lilac, S. Persica. 
 
 Various other lilacs are also hardy and desirable. 
 
 Mock-orange, PMladelplnis coronarius and P. grandiflorus. 
 
 Smoke-tree, Rhus Cotinus. 
 
 One of the best shrubs for massing. Two colors are grown. 
 
 Dwarf sumac, R. copalUna* 
 
 Attractive in foliage, and especially conspicuous in autumn from the 
 brilliant red of its leaves. 
 
 Sumac, smooth and hairy, R. glabra* and R. typhina.* 
 
 Useful for the borders of large groups and belts. They may be cut 
 down every year and allowed to sproiit (as in Fig. 157). The young tops 
 are handsomest. R. glabra is the finer species for this purpose. 
 
 Three-lobed spirea, Spircea trilobata. 
 
 One of the most showy early-flowering shrubs. Excellent for massing. 
 
 Sorbus- leaved spirea, S. sorbifolia. 
 
 Desirable for its late blooming, — late June and early July. 
 
 Plum-leaved spirea, S. prunifolia. 
 
 Fortune's spirea, S. Japonica, or S. callosa. 
 
 Thunberg's spirea, S. Tfiunbergii. 
 Neat and attractive in habit. Dwarf. 
 
 St, Peter's Wreath, S. hypericifolia (Fig. 183). 
 
HARDY SHRUBS 229 
 
 Douglas' spirea, S. Douglasii. 
 Blossoms late,— in July. 
 
 Hard -hack, S. tomentosa* 
 
 Much like the last, but less showy. 
 
 Willow -leaved spirea, S. salicifolia* 
 
 Various other spireas are hardy and desirable. 
 Nine-bark, Physocarpus opuUfolia* {Spiroea opulifoUa). 
 Exochorda, Exochorda grandlflora. 
 
 A large and very showy shrub, producing a profusion of apple-like 
 white flowers in early spring. 
 
 Various roses. 
 
 Hardy roses are not always desirable for the lawn. For general 
 lawn purposes the older sorts.' single or semi-double, and which do not 
 require high culture, are to be preferred. (See pages 148, 149.) 
 
 Japanese rose, Bosa rugosa. 
 
 Most excellent for lawn planting, as the foliage is thick and not 
 attacked by insects (Fig. 184). 
 
 Wild swamp rose, Bosa Car'olhia* 
 
 Wild dwarf rose, Bosahumilis* {B. liieida of Michigan). 
 
 Say's Rose, Bosa Sayi* 
 Excellent for lawns, 
 
 Weigela, Diervilla Japonica and other species. 
 Free bloomers, very fine, in many colors. 
 
 Dwarf buckeye, ^sculus parviflora. 
 
 Attractive in habit, foliage and flower. Produces a large mass. 
 
 Flowering almond, Prunus Japonica. 
 Daphne, Daphne Mezereum. 
 
 Produces rose-purple or white flowers in abundance before the leaves 
 appear. Our earliest shrub in flowering. Dwarf, and should be planted 
 on the edges of groups. 
 Forsyth ia, Forsythia viridissima. 
 
 Blossoms yellow, appearing before the leaves. Requires protection in 
 many places. 
 Drooping forsythia, F. suspensa. 
 
 Makes an attractive mass on a bank or border. (Page 213.) 
 White alder, Clethra alnifoUa. 
 
 A very fine, hardy shrub, producing very fragrant flowers in July and 
 August. Should be better known. 
 
230 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 
 184. Rosa rugosa, from 
 Japan. One of the 
 best roses for lawn 
 planting, because of 
 its neat habit and at- 
 tractive foliage. 
 
 Sand myrtle, Leiophyllum huxifoUum. 
 
 Hydrangea, Hydrangea paniculata, hort. var. grandiflora. 
 
 One of the best and most showy small flowering shrubs. 
 Downy hydrangea, H. radiata. 
 
 Attractive in both foliage and flower. 
 Oak-leaved hydrangea, H. quercifoUa. 
 
 This is especially valuable for its luxuriant foliage. Even if killed to 
 the ground in winter, it is still worth cultivating for its strong shoots. 
 
 Ceanothus, Ceanothus Americanus.^ 
 
 A very small native shrtib, desirable for dry places under trees. 
 
 Azalea, Azalea viscosa and A. nudijlora. 
 
HARDY SHRUBS 231 
 
 Andromeda, Andromeda floribunda. 
 
 A small erieaceous evergreen. Should have some protection from the 
 winter sun. It may, for this purpose, be planted on the north side of 
 a clump of trees (Page 217. 
 
 Wild thorns, Cratcegus punctata * C. coccinea,* C. crus-galU,* 
 
 and others. 
 Bailey's osier, Cornus Baileyi.'^ 
 
 The finest of the native osiers for color of twigs and foliage. 
 
 Red -twigged osier, Cornus stolonifera* 
 
 The red twigs are very showy in winter. Some bushes are brighter 
 in color than others. 
 
 Flowering dogwood, C. Jlorida* 
 
 Coarse but very showy tree, desirable for borders of groups and 
 belts. A red-flowered variety is on the market. 
 
 Rose acacia, Eobinia hispida. 
 
 Purple plum, Prunus cerasifera, hort. var. Pissardi. 
 One of our most reliable purple-leaved trees. 
 
 Sand cherry, P. pumila* and P. Besseyi. 
 
 June -berry, Amelanchier Canadensis* and others. 
 Flowers profusely in spring before the leaves appear. 
 
 Fringe tree, Chionanthus Virgiiiica. 
 
 Tartarian maple, Acer Tataricum. 
 
 Attractive as a lawn specimen when grown as a shrub. The autumn 
 color is very bright. 
 
 Mountain maple, A. spicatum.* 
 Very bright in autumn. 
 
 European maple, A. campestre. 
 
 Not generally hardy, but attractive if cut down and allowed to throw 
 up new shoots. 
 
 Tartarian honeysuckle, Lonicera Tatarica. 
 One of the most chaste and comely of shrubs. 
 
 St. John's Wort, Hypericum Kalmianum,* and H . prolificum * 
 Small undershrubs, producing bright yellow flowers in profusion in 
 July and August. 
 
 Burning-bush, Euonymus atropmpureus,* 
 Very attractive in fruit. 
 
232 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Flowering, or fragrant currant, Rihes aureum. 
 Well known and popular. 
 
 Snow -berry, Symphoricarpus racemosus ."^ 
 
 Cultivated for its snow-white berries. 
 
 Indian currant, Symphoricarpus vulgaris * 
 Foliage delicate. Berries red. Valuable. 
 
 Witch hazel, Hamamelis Virginiana* 
 
 Blossoms in October and November. Unique and desirable if well 
 grown. 
 
 Elders, Samhucus racemosa* {S. piibens) and S. Canadensis.'^ 
 
 The former, the common "red elder," is ornamental both in flower 
 and fruit. S. Canadensis is desirable for its profusion of fragrant 
 flowers appearing in July. 
 
 Kerria, Eerria Japonica. 
 
 A bramble-like shrub, producing attractive yellow single or double 
 flowers from July until September. There is a variegated-leaved form. 
 Good for banks and borders. Twigs vei-y green in winter. 
 
 Japanese bramble, Rubus cratcegifolius. 
 
 Very valuable for holding banks. Spreads rapidly. Very red in 
 winter. 
 
 Winter- berry, Ilex verticillata* 
 
 Produces showy red berries, which persist through the winter. 
 Should be massed in rather low ground. Flowers imperfect. 
 
 Leatherwood, Dirca palustris* 
 
 If well grown, the leatherwood makes a very neat plant. Blossoms 
 appear before the leaves, but not showy. 
 
 Button-bush, Cephalantlms occidentalis.'^ 
 
 Blossoms in July and August. Desirable for water courses and other 
 low places. 
 
 Privet, Ligustrum vidgare, and L. ovalifolium {L. Japonicum). 
 Much used for low hedges and borders. 
 
 Barberry, Berberis vidgaris. 
 
 Mahonia, Berberis AquifoUum. 
 
 Evergreen. Dwarf. Needs some protection in exposed places. 
 
 Wild crab, P. coronaria^ and P. loensis. 
 
 Very showy while in flower, blooming after apple blossoms have 
 fallen. Old specimens become picturesque in form. 
 
 i 
 
HARDY BUSHES 233 
 
 Japanese quince, Pyrus Japonica. 
 
 An old favorite. Not hardy at Lansing. 
 Chinquapin or dwarf chestnut, Castanea pumila. 
 Sweet viburnum or sheep-berry, Viburnum Lentago* 
 Arrow- wood, V. dentatum* 
 
 Withe-rod, lilac viburnum, V. casainoides .* 
 Other native and exotic viburnums are desirable. 
 
 Spice-bush, Lindera Benzoin.* 
 
 Box, Buxus sempervirens. 
 
 A diminutive evergreen shrub, useful for edgings in cities. 
 Kilmarnock willow, Salix Caprcea, hort. var. peyidida. ^ 
 
 A very small weeping plant, usually more curious than ornamental. 
 
 Rosemary willow, S. rosmariyiifoUa of nurserymen. 
 
 Shining willow, S. lucida."^ 
 
 Very desirable for the edges of water, 
 
 Long-leaved willow, S, loHglfoJia* 
 
 Our nari'o west-leaved native willow. Useful for banks. Apt to 
 spread too rapidly. 
 
 Fountain willow, S. purpurea. 
 
 Pussy willow, S. discolor.* 
 
 Attractive when massed at some distance from the residence. 
 
 Siberian pea-tree, Caragana arhorescens. 
 
 Small pea-tree, C. pygmcea. 
 
 Red-bud or Judas-tree, Cercis Canadensis.* 
 
 Produces a profusion of rose-purple pea-like flowers before the leaves 
 appear. Foliage attractive. 
 
 Mountain ash, Pyrus Aucuparia. (Page 225.) 
 Service-tree, P. domestica. 
 
 Fruit handsomer than that of the mountain ash and more persistent. 
 Small tree. 
 
 Oak-leaved mountain ash, P. hybrida. 
 Small tree, deserving to be better known. 
 
 Weeping aspen, Populus grandidentatn, hort. var. pjendula. 
 (Page 224.) 
 
 Cut-leaved alder, Alnus glutinosa, hort. var. 
 
234 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Wild alder, A. serrulata* 
 
 Dwarf birch, Betula pumila.* 
 Desirable for low places. 
 
 Ailanthus, Ailanthus glandulosus . 
 
 Most attractive when cut to the ground each year and allowed to 
 sprout (Fig. 157). The young shoots give a tropical effect. For this pur- 
 pose the soil should be very rich. 
 
 Pamlownia, Paulownia imper talis . 
 
 Of this and the following magnolias, the tops are not hardy, and they 
 should be used in the same manner as the ailanthus. 
 
 Magnolias, Magnolia Unibrclla and cordata. 
 
 Hop-tree, Ptelea trifoliata* 
 
 Prickly ash, Zanthoxylum Americanuni* 
 
 Bladder-nut, StapJnjlea' trifoUa* 
 
 Horn-beam or Blue beech, Carpinus Americana* 
 
 Iron -wood, Ostrya Virginica* 
 
 European Bird Cherry, Prunus Padus. 
 
 A small tree much like the choke cherry, but a freer grower, with 
 lai'ger flowers and racemes which appear about a week later. 
 
 Choke Cherry, P. Virginiana.* 
 
 Very showy while in flower. 
 Kaempfer's Catalpa, Catalpa Kcempferi. 
 Flowering crab, Pyrus floridunda. 
 
 Pretty both in flower and fruit. A large shrub or small tree. Various 
 forms. 
 
 B. Co7iiferous Evergreens. 
 
 Dwarf arborvitse, Thuja occidentalis , hort. var. 
 
 There are many dwarf and compact varieties of arborvitaa, most of 
 which are excellent for small places. The most desirable for general 
 pui'poses, and also the largest, is the so called Siberian. Other very 
 desirable forms are those sold as globosa, ericoides, Hoveyi and pyra- 
 midalis. 
 Japanese arborvitse or retinospora, Betinospora of various 
 species. 
 
 Very attractive small plants, of which the following nursery forms 
 appear to be hardy in Central Michigan : R. squarrosa, R. pisifera, 
 R. plumosa, R. obtusa. There are various varieties of these. 
 
185. Clematis Henryi. One-thu'd natural size. 
 
236 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Juniper, Juniperus coynmunis* and garden varieties. 
 
 The juniper is a partially trailing plant, of loose habit, suitable for 
 banks and rocky places. There are upright and very formal varieties 
 of it, the best being those sold as var. Hibernica, "Irish juniper," and 
 var. Suecica "Swedish juniper.'' 
 Northern juniper, J. Sahina, var. proctimhens.* 
 
 One of the best of the low, diffuse conifers. 
 Dwarf Norway Spruce, Picea excelsa, hort. var. 
 
 Several very dwarf sorts of the Norway spruce are in cultivation, 
 some of which are to be recommended 
 Dwarf pine, Pinus pumiJio. 
 
 There are other desirable dwarf pines. 
 
 IV. Perennial Climbers. 
 A. Shrubhi/. 
 1. Tendril Climbers, Root Climbers and Scramblers. 
 
 Virginia creeper, Ampelopsis quinque folia.* 
 
 The best vine for covering buildings in the climate of Michigan. 
 Plants should be selected from vines of known habit, as some indi- 
 viduals cling much better than others. 
 Japanese ivy, Boston ivy, A. tricuspklata {A. Veitchil) , 
 
 Handsomer than the Vii-ginia creeper, and clings closer, but is often 
 injured by winter in exposed places, especially when young 
 
 Garden clematis, Clematis of various species. 
 
 Plants of robust and attractive habit, and gorgeous bloomers. C 
 Jackmanni, and its varieties, is one of the best. C Henrui (Fig. 185) 
 is excellent for white flowers. Clematises bloom in July and August. 
 
 Wild clematis, C. Virginiana.'^ 
 
 Very attractive for arbors and for covering rude objects. The pistil- 
 late plants bear curious woolly balls of fruit. 
 
 Wild Clematis, C. verticillaris. 
 
 Less vigorous grower than the last, but excellent. 
 Trumpet creeper, Tecoma radicans. 
 
 One of the best of all free-flowering shrubs. Climbs by means of 
 roots. 
 
 Frost grape, Vitis cord i folia. 
 
 One of the finest of all vines. It is a very tall grower, producing 
 thick, heavy, dark leaves. Its foliage often reminds one of that of the 
 moon-seed. Does not grow readily from cuttings. 
 
HARDY VINES 237 
 
 Sinnraer and River bank grapes, V. hicolor* and V. vulpina* 
 
 (ripayia). 
 The common wild grapes. 
 
 Ivy, Hedera Helix, 
 
 The European ivy does not endure the bright sun of our winter. On 
 the north side of a building it often does well. The best of vines for 
 covering buildings where it succeeds. Hardy in middle states 
 
 Greenbrier, Smilax rotundifoUa* and S. hispida.* 
 
 Unique for the covering of small arbors and summer houses 
 
 2. Twiners. 
 
 Actinidia, A. pohjgama. 
 
 Very strong grower, with beautiful thick foliage which is not attacked 
 by insects or fungi; etirious flowers and edible fruit. The best vine for 
 arbors. Japanese. 
 
 Akebia, A. Japonica. 
 
 Very handsome and odd Japanese vine; a strong grower, and worthy 
 general planting. 
 
 Honeysuckles, Woodbine, Lonicera sempervirens, L. Jiava, 
 and others. 
 Everywhere known- and appreciated. 
 
 Dutchman's pipe, Aristolochia SipJio. 
 
 A robixst grower, possessing enormous leaves. Useful for covering 
 verandas and arbors. Needs to be more thoroughly tested in Michigan 
 regarding its hardiness. 
 
 Wax-work or Bitter-sweet, Celastrus scandens* 
 Very ornamental in fruit. Flowers imperfect. 
 
 Wistaria, Wistaria Sinensis and W. fruiescens. 
 
 The wistarias evidently do not thrive in exposed places in Michigan 
 The Chinese species. Sinensis, is a superb plant. 
 
 Moonseed, Menispermum Canadense.^ 
 
 A small but very attractive twiner, useful for thickets and small 
 arbors 
 
 B. Herbaceous. 
 
 Hop, Humulus Lupulus* and H. Japonicus. 
 Should be in common use as ornamental plants. 
 
 Chinese yam, Dioscorea Batatas {D. Japonica). 
 
 Climbs high, biit does not produce foliage enough to cover unsightly 
 objects. 
 
238 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Wild yam, B. villosa* 
 
 Smaller than the preceding; otherwise fully as good. 
 
 Ground-nut, A2)ios Ulcerosa * 
 
 A bean-like vine, producing many chocolate-brown flowers in August 
 and September. 
 Scarlet Runner and White Dutch Runner beans, Phaseolus 
 multifloriis. 
 Perennial in the South, Excellent. 
 
 Moonflowers, Ipomcea, various species. 
 Some are perennials far south. 
 
 V. Herbaceous Perennials for Lawns. 
 
 This list includes only a few striking plants, which are 
 valuable for lawn planting, selected chiefly on account of 
 their size, foliage and habit. They are usually not suitable 
 for flower gardens. Many common wild plants when trans- 
 planted to grounds and well grown, produce a good effect. 
 It is impossible to give to this list any degree of com- 
 pleteness. 
 
 Yucca, Yucca filamentosa. 
 Funkia, FunMa, of several species. 
 Peltate saxifrage, Saxifraga peltata. 
 Rose Mallow, Hibiscus Moscheutos* 
 Elecampane, Inula Helenium (Fig. 186). 
 Wild sunflowers, HeUanthus of various species, especially 
 
 H. orygalis, H. giganteus,* H. grosse-serratus, H . stru- 
 
 7nosus.* 
 Compass-pla-nts, SilpMum of various species, especially 
 
 S. terehinthinaceum* S. laciniatum* S. perfoliatum.'^ 
 Sacaline, Polygonum SagliaUnense. 
 
 Strong and excellent. 
 Bocconia, Bocconia cordata. 
 
 Wild wormwood, Artemisia Stelleriana and others. 
 Butterfly-weed, Asclepias tuberosa.* 
 Wild asters. Aster of various species, especially A. Novce- 
 
 Anglice,* A. Icevis* A. multiflorus,* A. spectabilis. 
 
18fi. Elecampane. Naturalized in old fields and along 
 roadsides. 
 
240 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Golden -rods, Solidago of various species, especially S. spe- 
 
 ciosa,^ S. nernoralis* S. juncea,* S. gigantea* 
 Loose -strife, Ly thrum Salicaria. 
 Flags, Iris of very many species. 
 
 Japanese wind-flower, Anemone Japonica. Blooms in fall- 
 Goat's beard, Spircea Aruneus. 
 Baptisia, Baptisia tinctoria.* 
 Thermopsis, TJiermopsis mollis. 
 Wild senna, Cassia Marilandica* 
 Wild trefoil, Desmodium Canadense* and others. 
 Ribbon grass, Phalaris arundinacea hort. var. picta. 
 Zebra grass, Eulalia, or [Miscanthus) species. 
 Wild panic grass, Panicum virgatum.^ 
 Arundo, Arundo Donax. 
 
 One of the most striking of reed-grasses. 
 Reed, Phragmites commimis.* 
 
 This and the remaining plants of the list should be planted in the 
 edges of water. 
 
 Wild rice, Zizania aquatica* 
 
 Cat-tail, Typlia angustifoUa and T. latifoUa* 
 
 Lizard's -tail, Saururus cernuus.* 
 
 Peltandra, Peltandra undulata* 
 
 Orontium, OronUum aquaticum. 
 
 187. Breath ot sprmg! 
 
FLOWER-BEDS 241 
 
 PLANTS FOB FLORAL EFFECTS* 
 
 (Ernest Walker) 
 1. Bemarlis on Floiver-beds 
 
 The various styles of planting. — The mixed border, 
 planted with various hardy plants, and extending along 
 either side of the garden-walk, was popular years ago; 
 and, with modifications in position, form and extent, has, 
 during the past few years, been a popular attachment to 
 home grounds. (See Hardy Herbaceous Plants, page 278.) 
 To produce the best effects, the plants should be planted 
 close enough to cover the ground; and the selection 
 should be such as to afford a continuity of bloom. 
 
 There is also the border of tender summer-blooming 
 plants, in which the kinds are planted in a mixed fashion. 
 
 In ribbon -bedding, so-called, flowering or foliage plants 
 are arranged in ribbon -like lines of harmoniously con- 
 trasting colors, commonly accompanying walks or drives, 
 but also suitable for marking limits, or for the side 
 borders. In such beds, as well as the others, the tallest 
 plants, if the bed is to be seen from one side only, will 
 be placed at the back, and the lowest at the front. If 
 it is to be seen from both sides, then the tallest will 
 stand in the center. 
 
 A modification of the ribbon-line, bringing the con- 
 trasting colors together into masses forming circles or 
 other patterns, is known as ' * massing, " or " massing in 
 color," and sometimes is spoken of as carpet-bedding. 
 
 Carpet-bedding, however, belongs more properly to a 
 style of bedding in which plants of dense, low, spreading 
 
 * Since new and good varieties of flowering plants are constantly 
 being offered, and fashions are changing, it is generally impracticable 
 to give lists of named varieties in a book. These varieties should be 
 chosen after consulting the annual or periodical publications, as seeds- 
 men's and plantsmen's catalogues, journals, and bulletins.— L. H. B. 
 
242 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 habit — chiefly foliage plants, with leaves of different 
 forms and colors — are planted in patterns not unlike 
 carpets or rugs. 
 
 Beds composed of the large foliage plants, for pro- 
 ducing tropical effects, are composed, in the main, of 
 plants which are allowed to develop naturally. In the 
 lower and more orderly massing, the plants are arranged 
 not only in circles and patterns according to habit and 
 height, but the selection is such that some or all may 
 be kept within proper limits by pinching or trimming. 
 Circles or masses composed of flowering plants usually 
 cannot be cut back at the top, so that the habit of the 
 plants must be known before planting; and they must 
 be placed in parts of the bed where trimming will not be 
 necessary. They may, however, be clipped at the sides 
 in ease the branches or foliage of one mass or line in 
 the pattern grows beyond its proper bounds. 
 
 Aquatics may often be used to good effect in the 
 landscape. This is especially true of such large and bold 
 kinds as the lotus, which makes a very strong constrast 
 against a building or a background of foliage. Ponds 
 are usually protected at the edges by mason -work, and 
 in loose soils they have cement bottoms. In some soils, 
 a simple excavation will hold water, but it is usually 
 necessary to give the tank some kind of lining. Clay is 
 often used. The bottom and sides of the tank are 
 pounded firm, and then covered with three to six inches 
 of clay, which has been kneaded in the hands, or pounded 
 and worked in a box. Handfuls or shovelfuls of the 
 material are thrown forcibly upon the earth, the operator 
 being careful not to walk upon the work. The clay is 
 smoothed by means of a spade or maul, and it is then 
 sanded. These lily tanks are from two to three feet 
 deep. 
 
 Aquatics in the open nearly always show to best ad- 
 vantage if a few tall bog plants are grown with them. 
 
AQUATICS 
 
 243 
 
 Swamps yield many interesting tall plants, and there are 
 many exotics in the market which can be grown with 
 water lilies. The common wild water lilies can be grown 
 
 189. A tub of water lilies. 
 
 in tubs (Fig. 189), strong flowering roots being got each 
 year or two from the wild. The subject of aquatics is 
 too special for this book, and the reader who wishes the 
 best information should consult Tricker's "Water Gar- 
 den." 
 
 2. Carpet-bedding 
 
 The beauty of the carpet-bed lies largely in its unity^ 
 sharp contrast and harmony of color, elegance — often sim- 
 plicity — of design, nicety of execution, and the continued 
 distinctness of outline due to scrupulous care. A gen- 
 erous allowance of greensward on all sides contributes 
 greatly to the general effect, — in fact is indispensable. 
 
244 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Let us pass to considerations purely practical: What- 
 ever place is selected for the bed, it should be in a sunny- 
 situation. This, nor any kind of bed, should not be 
 planted near large trees, as their greedy roots will rob the 
 soil not only of its food, but of moisture. The shade, 
 also ^will be a menace. As the plants stand so thick, 
 the soil should be well enriched, and spaded at least a 
 foot deep. In planting, a space of at least six inches 
 must be left between the outer row of plants and the 
 edge of the grass. The very style of the bed requires 
 that lines be straight, the curves uniform, and that they 
 be kept so by the frequent and careful use of the shears. 
 During dry periods watering will be necessary. The beds, 
 however, should not be watered in the hot sunshine. 
 Foliage plants are most in use, and are the ones which 
 will prove the most satisfactory in the hands of the 
 inexperienced, as they submit to severe clipping and are 
 thus more easily managed. 
 
 The following list will be found helpful to the beginner. 
 It embraces a number of the plants in common use for 
 carpet-bedding. Other useful kinds will be found under 
 the discussion of annuals (page 255) . The usual heights 
 are given in inches. This, of course, in different soils 
 and under different treatment is, more or less, a variable 
 quantity. The figures in parentheses suggest in inches 
 suitable distances for planting in the row when immediate 
 effects are expected. A verbena in rich soil will in time 
 cover a circle three feet or more in diameter; other 
 plants mentioned spread considerably; but when used in 
 the carpet-bed they must be planted close. One can 
 not wait for them to grow. The aim is to cover the 
 ground at once. Although planted thick in the row, 
 it will be desirable to leave more room between the rows 
 in case of spreading plants like the verbena. Most of 
 them, however, need little if any more space between 
 the rows than is indicated by the figures given. In the 
 
CARPET -BEDDING 245 
 
 list those plants which bear free clipping are marked 
 with an asterisk (*) : 
 
 PLANTS FOR CARPET -BEDS 
 
 1. Low-growing Plants 
 
 The figure immediately following the name of plant indicates its 
 height; the figures in parentheses the distance for planting. 
 
 A. Foliage Plants. 
 
 Cronsow. — *Alternanthera amoena spectabilis, G (4-6). 
 
 " paronychioides major. 5 (3-6). 
 
 " versicolor, 5 (3-6). 
 
 Yellow.— " aurea nana, 6 (4-6). 
 
 Grey, or WhifLsh. — Echeyeria, secunda, glauca, IK (3-4). 
 " metallica, 9 (6-8). 
 
 Cineraria maritima 15 (9-12). 
 Sempervivum Californicum 13^ (3-4). 
 Thymus argentea 6 (4-6). 
 Bronze Brown. — Oxalis tropoeoloides, 3 (3-4). 
 Variegated (White and green).— 
 
 Geranium Mme. Solleroi, 6 (6-8). 
 * Sweet alyssum, variegated, 6 (6-9)o 
 
 B. Flowering Plants. 
 
 Scarlet.-Fhlox Drummondii, Dwarf, 6 (4-6). 
 
 Cuphea platycentra, Cigar Plant, 6 (4-6). 
 White. — Sweet alyssum, Little Gem, 4 (4-6). 
 " " common, 6 (6-8). 
 
 Phlox Drummondii, Dwarf, 6 (4-6). 
 Blue. — Lobelia, Crystal Palace, 6 (4-6). 
 Ageratum, Dwarf Blue, 6 (6-8). 
 
 2. Plants of Taller Growth. 
 
 A. Foliage Plants. 
 
 Crimson. — *Coleus Verschaffeltii, 24 (9-12), 
 *Achyranthes Lindeni, 18 (8-12). 
 
 * " Gilsoni, 12 (8-12). 
 
 * " Verschaffeltii, 12 (8-12). 
 *Acalypha tricolor, 12-18 (12). 
 
246 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Ff?7oM'.-*Coleus, Golden, 24 (9-12). 
 
 *Achyranthes, aurea reticulata, 12 (8-12). 
 Golden feverfew (Pyrethrum parthenifolium 
 
 aureum), (6-8). 
 Bronze geranium, 12 (9). 
 Silvery White.— 
 
 Dusty Miller (Centaurea gymnocarpa), 12 (8-12). 
 *Santolina chamsecyparissus incana, 6-12 (6-8). 
 Geranium, Mountain of Snow, 12 (6-9). 
 V(xriegated (white and green).— 
 
 *Stevia serrata var., 12-18 (8-12). 
 Phalaris arundinacea var. (grass), 24 (4-8). 
 Cyperus alternifolius var. 24-30 (8-12). 
 i?ro w2;e.—*Acalypha marginata, 24 (12). 
 
 B. Ft.o\vering Plants. 
 
 6VarZeL- Salvia splendens 36 (12-18). 
 Geraniums, 24 (12). 
 Cuphea tricolor (C. Llavae), 18 (8-12). 
 Dwarf nasturtium (Tropseolum) 12-18 (12-18). 
 Begonia, Vernon, 12 (6-8). 
 Verbenas, 12 (6-12). 
 Phlox Drummondii, dwarf, 6 (4-6). 
 White. — ^?i\y\a. splendens. White-flowered, 36 (12-18)o 
 Geraniums, 18-24 (12). 
 Lantana, Innocence, 18-24 (8-12). 
 
 Queen Victoria, 24 (8-12). 
 Verbena, Snow Queen, 12 (6-12). 
 Ageratum, white, 9 (6-9). 
 Phlox Drummondii, dwarf, 6 (4-6). 
 Pi « A;. — Petunia, Ccuntess of Ellesmere, 18 (8-12)o 
 Lantana, 24 (8-12). 
 Verbena, Beauty of Oxford, 6 (8-12). 
 Phlox Drummondii, dwarf, 6 (4-6). 
 »77o«'.- Dwarf nasturtium, 12 (12-18). 
 
 Anthemis coronaria fl. pi., 12 (6-8). 
 i^/«e.— Ageratum Mexicanum, 12 (6-8). 
 Verbenas, 6 (6-12). 
 Heliotrope, Queen of Violets, 18 (12-18). 
 
190. Designs for carpet -beds. 
 
248 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 In Fig. 190 are shown a few designs suitable for carpet 
 beds. They are intended merely to be suggestive, not to 
 be copied precisely. The simple forms and component 
 parts of the more elaborate beds may be arranged into 
 other designs. Likewise the arrangement of plants which 
 will be mentioned as suitable for making a given pat- 
 tern, is only one of many possible arrangements. The 
 idea is merely to bring out the design distinctly. To 
 accomplish this it is only necessary to use plants of con- 
 trasting color or growth. To illustrate how varied are 
 the arrangements that may be used, and how easily dif- 
 ferent effects are produced with a single design, I will 
 mention several different combinations of color for the 
 bed No 1. 
 
 No. 1.— Arrangement A: Outside, Alternanthera amoena spec- 
 tabilis; inside, Stevia serrata variegata. B: lobelia. Crystal 
 Palace; Mme. Solleroi geranium. C: lobelia, Crystal Palace; 
 scarlet dwarf phlox. D: sweet alyssura; petunia. Countess 
 of Ellesmere. E: coleus. Golden Bedder; coleus Verchaf- 
 feltii. F: Achyranthes Lindeni; yellow dwarf nasturtium. 
 
 No. 2. — Outside, red alternanthera; middle, Dusty Miller; 
 center, pink geranium. 
 
 No. 3. — Outside, Alternanthera aurea nana ; middle, Alter- 
 nanthera amcena spectabilis ; center, Anthemis coronaria. 
 
 No. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 12 may each be filled with a single color, 
 or given a border of suitable plants if the planter so chooses. 
 
 No. 9. — Ground, Alternanthera aurea nana; center, Acalypha 
 tricolor; black dots, scarlet geranium. 
 
 No. 10. — Ground of Centaurea gymnocarpa; circle, Achyranthes 
 Lindeni; cross, golden coleus. 
 
 No. 11. — Border, Oxalis tropaeoloides; center, blue heliotrope, 
 
 blue ageratum, or Acalypha marginata; cross about the 
 
 center. Thymus argentea, or centaurea; scallop outside the 
 
 cross, blue lobelia; corners inside border, santolina. 
 
 Designs 13 and 14 are, in character, somewhat in the style 
 
 of a parterre; but instead of the intervening spaces in the 
 
 bed being ordinary walks they are of grass. Such beds are 
 
 of a useful type, because they may be made large and j^et be 
 
CARPET -BEDDING 
 
 249 
 
 executed with a comparatively small number of plants. They 
 are especially suita])le for the center of an open plot of lawn 
 with definite formal boundaries on all sides, such as walks 
 or drives. Whether they are to be composed of tall-growing 
 or of low-growing plants will depend upon the distance they 
 are to be from the observer. For a moderate sized plot the 
 following plants might be used: 
 
 No. 13. — Border, red alternanthera; second row, dwarf orange 
 or yellow nasturtium; third row, Achyranthes Gilsoni, or 
 
 191. Carpet-bed for a bay or recession in the border planting. 
 
 Acalypha tricolor; central square, scarlet geraniums, with a 
 border of Centaurea gymnocarpa, intervening spaces, grass. 
 Instead of the square of geraniums, a vase might be sub- 
 stituted, or a clump of Salvia splendens. 
 No. 14. — Composite beds like this and the former are always 
 suggestive. They contain various features which may readily 
 be re-combined into other patterns. Sometimes it may be 
 convenient to use only portions of the design. The reader 
 
250 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 should feel that no arrangement is arbitrary, but merely a 
 suggestion which he may use with the utmost freedom, only 
 keeping harmony in view. For No. 14, the following may be 
 an acceptable planting arrangement; Border, Mme.- Solleroi 
 geranium ; small dots, dwarf scarlet tropaeolum; diamonds, 
 blue lobelia ; crescents, Stevia serrata variegata ; inner 
 border, crimson achyranthes or coleus ; loops, Centaurea 
 gymnocarpa; wedge-shape portions, scarlet geranium. 
 
 192. Another circular carpet-bed. 
 
 No. 15. — Suitable for a corner. Border, red alternanthera ; 
 second row, Alternanthera aurea nana ; third row, red 
 alternanthera; center, Echeveria Calif ornica. 
 
 No 16. — Border, crimson alternanthera (another border of 
 yellow alternanthera might be placed inside of this) ; ground, 
 Echeveria secunda glauca ; inner border, Oxalis tropaeoloides ; 
 center, Alternanthera aurea nana. Or, inner border, Ech- 
 everia Calif ornica; center, crimson alternanthera. 
 
 No. 17.— Another bed intended to fill an angle. Its curved 
 
PLANTS FOR EDGINGS 251 
 
 side will also fit it for use with a circular design. Border, 
 dwarf blue ageratum ; circle, blue lobelia ; ground (3 parts), 
 crimson alternanthera. 
 Other carpet or mosaic beds (after Long), with the plants 
 indicated, are sliown in Figs. 191, 192. 
 
 3. Edgings and Mass-heds 
 
 PLANTS FOR EDGINGS, BORDERS AND RIBBON-BEDS 
 [Blooming all summer) 
 
 Ageratum Mexicanum, Hh.* Dwarf blue, Height, 9 inches. 
 Sow when danger of frost is over, in the open ground; or 
 for early plants, in March, in the greenhouse or hotbed. 
 Plant them 6 inches apart. 
 
 Alyssum (Sweet) H. White. Of spreading habit, growing G to 
 8 inches high. A valuable plant. Treatment the same as 
 for ageratum. 
 
 Candytuft, H. The annual kinds are useful bedding plants. 
 The white and carmine sorts are the best colors. Height, 
 1 foot. The dwarf Iberis affinis grows only about 6 inches 
 high. Its colors are white, rose, and purple. Treatment 
 similar to the last. When sown early, transplant while 
 small to pots. 
 
 Clarkia. See Annuals, page 259. 
 
 GiLiA. See Annuals, page 259. 
 
 Lobelia erinus, Hh. P. Of compact, trailing habit. Small 
 blue flowers. Height, 6 inches. Crystal Palace is perhaps 
 the best. Sow in a hotbed or greenhouse in January. 
 
 Marigold. See Annuals, page 261. 
 
 Nemophila. See Annuals, page 261. 
 
 Portulaca, T. Beautiful and brilliapt, for either lines, edg- 
 ings, or masses — especially the double sorts. The flowers 
 are like little roses, and of a great variety of shades in 
 scarlet, white, pink, yellow, and purple. Height, 6 inches. 
 Blooms from July till frost. Sow thickly in the open 
 
 *H., Hh. and T. P., hardy, half-hardy and tender perennial re- 
 spectively. 
 
252 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 ground when danger of frost is past. They begin to flower 
 soon, and any single ones that appear may be removed. 
 Thin to about 4 or 6 inches. They prefer a dry, warm 
 situation, delighting in the hottest and sunniest weather. 
 
 ToKENiA, T. For a partially shaded situation, as with pansies, 
 these are attractive. T. Fournieri has porcelain-blue and 
 rich violet flowers. Of T. Bailloni the flowers are deep 
 yellow and maroon. There is also a white variety known as 
 White Wings. Height, 6 inches or more. Sow in March 
 in a hotbed, or window. They must have a temperature of 
 at least 60°. Plant out when danger of frost is past. 
 
 Whitlavia, H. Flowers bell-shaped, white and violet-blue, or 
 purple. Height, 1 foot or more. Should have light, sandy 
 soil to do best. Sow in the open ground when the soil is 
 right, and danger of frost is over. For early plants, start in 
 March in a temperature of about 60°. 
 
 PLANTS FOR TROPICAL EFFECTS, MASSING 
 {Or for the center or hack of a group) 
 
 The number of plants in this category which may 
 be readily grown from seed, is limited. Some of the 
 best kinds are included below. It will often be worth 
 while to supplement these with others, to be had at the 
 florists, such as caladiums, screw pines, Ficus elastica, 
 Musa Ensete, palms, crotons, and others. 
 
 In the use of such plants, there are opportunities for 
 the exercise of the nicest taste. A gross feeder, as 
 the ricinus, in the midst of a bed of delicate annuals, 
 is like a lion among lambs; and a stately, royal - 
 looking plant among humbler kinds often makes the 
 latter look common, when if headed with a chief of 
 their own rank all would appear to the best advantage. 
 
 Amaranthus, T. These have ornamental foliage and make 
 handsome plants for the center of beds. The seeds may 
 be sown in a warm hotbed temperature in March, and the 
 3'oung plants set out about the first of June. Seed saved 
 
PLANTS FOR EDGINGS 253 
 
 from the best kinds will produce some infei'ior plants, so it 
 is well to plant three or four together. When they show 
 their color, all but the best one may be removed or cut off. 
 A. tricolor is the well-known "Joseph's Coat." The leaves are 
 red, yellow and green. Height, 3 feet. A. caudatiis grows 
 to a similar height, is of drooping habit and has fine red 
 foliage. A. salicifoliiis is of drooping habit, and from its 
 graceful appearance has received the name of the "Fountain 
 Plant." It attains a height of 4 feet. 
 
 Aralia, Hh. P. A. Sleholdil, or Fatsia Japonica as it is some- 
 times called, and the variety variegata, have large palm-like, 
 leaves and a rather tropical appearance. Height 3 feet. Sow- 
 in February, in shallow trays and light soil, in a temperature 
 of 65°. Continue the temperature. When two or three leaves 
 have formed, transplant into other trays 1 inch apart. Sprinkle 
 them with a fine rose or spray; and do not allow them to 
 suffer for water. Later, transfer them to small pots and 
 repot them as they grow. Plant out in beds after the weather 
 has become warm and settled. 
 
 Cannas, T. p. These are well known and are among the most 
 ornamental and important plants used in decorative garden- 
 ing. They make fine herbaceoiis hedges, groups, masses, 
 and — when desirable— good center plants for beds. They grow 
 from 3 to 10 feet or more high. Formerly they were valued 
 chiefly for their magnificent foliage, but since the intro- 
 duction, in 1884, of the Crozy Dwarf French type with their 
 splendid flowers, cannas are grown as much for their flowers 
 as for their foliage effects. The flowers of these new kinds 
 are as large as those of gladioli, and are of various shades 
 of yellow and red, with banded and spotted forms. These 
 grow about 3 feet high. The older forms are taller. In both 
 sections there are green-leaved and dark coppery-red-leaved 
 varieties. It requires two years to raise strong plants of 
 the canna from seed. The seeds are bullet-like and hard. 
 File a small notch through the coat of each seed— avoiding 
 the round germinating point. Sow in light, sandy soil where 
 the earth may be kept at 70° till after germination. After 
 the plants have got well up, transplant them to about 
 3 or 4 inches apart, or place in pots three inches 
 wide, in good rich soil. They may now be kept at 60°. 
 
254 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Plant out when there is no longer danger of frost. The 
 old (foliage) sorts may be left out late to ripen up the fleshy 
 root-stocks. Cut the tops off immediately after frost. The 
 roots are safe in the ground as long as it does not freeze. 
 Dig, and dry or "cure" for a few days, then winter them like 
 potatoes in the cellar. It is a common mistake to dig canna 
 roots too early. The French sorts are commonly thought 
 to keep best if kept gi'owing somewhat during the winter; 
 but if managed right, they may be carried over like the 
 others. Immediately after frost, cut off the tops next the 
 ground. Cover the stumps with a little soil and leave the roots 
 in the ground till well ripened. Clean them after digging, 
 and cure or dry them for a week or more in the open air 
 and sun, taking them indoors at night. Then place them 
 away from frost in a cool, dry place. 
 
 Maize, T. The variegated Japanese corn, Zea Japonica varle- 
 gafa, is a splendid variegated plant for the center or back 
 of beds, clumps, etc. The leaves are striped with white. 
 Sow out of doors when there is no longer danger of frost. 
 It is well to have at least three plants in a group for beds. 
 This variety grows only about 4 feet high. 
 
 RiciNUS, T. This is the well-known castor oil plant. It has 
 a very tropical appearance, and may be used as a single 
 specimen on the lawn, for a hedge-like row, or for the cen- 
 ter of large beds, especially with cannas and caladiums. 
 The plant branches freely and grows to a height of 9-12 
 feet or more. Leaves large and palmate. Start the seed in 
 small pots in March in a temperature of 60° or more, and 
 plant out when the weather is settled. The seed may also 
 be started in the open ground. Give them a dry situation 
 and deep, rich soil. The variety S. Cambodgensis has bronzy 
 foliage and is one of the best, growing about 6 feet high. 
 H. Borhoniensis attains a height of 15 feet, and R. Zanzi- 
 bariensis likewise. 
 
 WiGANDiA, T. P. This plant, although perennial, should be grown 
 from the seed each year. It has leaves 2 or 3 feet long by 
 half as wide, and grows 4 feet high. The stems are cov- 
 ered with red hairs, and the leaves are handsomely veined. 
 The plant requires room and light, and is most suitable for 
 spacious gi'ounds, where it may be used for massing or as 
 
ANNUAL FLOWERS 255 
 
 single specimens for the lawn. W. macrophylla and W. 
 Vigieri are to be had of seed-dealers. Sow the seed in 
 February or March in a temperature averaging 65° to 70°. 
 Transplant at first to boxes, afterward to pots, and grow till 
 time for planting out. 
 
 4. Aymuals 
 
 Many of the showy annuals are especially well suited 
 to growing in masses, while the dwarf kinds make fine 
 flowery edging for beds or walks. It is also possible to 
 make handsome ribbon -beds with the dwarf sorts; but 
 here, as shearing is well nigh precluded, we should limit 
 ourselves to simple designs. For the best effects, much 
 depends both upon a judicious selection of kinds, and 
 arrangement. In purchasing seeds, it is best to buy the 
 different colors in separate packages, and to buy the best. 
 Hardy annuals are such as develop readily without the 
 aid of artificial heat. They are commonly sown in May 
 or earlier, directly in the open ground where they are 
 to grow. Florists often sow certain kinds in the fall, 
 and winter the young plants in coldframes. They may 
 also be wintered under a covering of leaves or evergreen 
 boughs. The half-hardy and tender annuals are alike in 
 that they require more warmth for their germination and 
 growth. They, like the hardy kinds, may be sown in the 
 open ground, but not until the weather has become settled, 
 and warm, which for the tender kinds will not commonly 
 be before the first of June. A few of the annuals thrive 
 in partial shade or where they receive sunshine for half 
 the day; but most of them prefer a sunny situation. 
 
 Any good garden soil is suitable for annuals. If not 
 naturally fertile and friable, it should be made so by the 
 application of well rotted stable -manure or humus. The 
 spading should be at least one foot deep. The upper six 
 inches is then to be given a second turning to pulverize 
 
256 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 and mix it. After making the surface fine and smooth, 
 the soil should be pressed down with a board. The seed 
 may now be sprinkled on the soil in lines or concentric 
 circles, according to the method desired. After covering, 
 the seed, the soil should be pressed down with a board. 
 This promotes capillarity, by which the surface of the 
 soil is better supplied with moisture than would be possi- 
 ble otherwise. Always mark the kind and position of 
 all seed sown with a label. 
 
 While many kinds of annuals may be sown directly in 
 the open ground, some of the sorts, especially the tender 
 ones, will flower sooner in the season and give much 
 more satisfaction if sown early under cover. The majority 
 of these may be sown aboiit the middle of March, but 
 some must be sown in February. Where but a few 
 are to be grown, a sunny window answers, especially 
 for March sowings; but it is more satisfactory to have 
 a hotbed, or greenhouse, at command. The danger with 
 early sown seedlings is "drawing up," and weakness 
 from crowTling and want of light. This is most liable 
 to occur with window-grown plants. Vigorous June-sown 
 plants are better than such weaklings. 
 
 Poppies, bartonia, Venus' looking-glass, the dwarf 
 convolvulus, lupinus, and malope do not bear trans- 
 planting well. It is best, therefore, to sow them where 
 they are to grow. Some annuals do not bloom all sum- 
 mer, especially if allowed to produce seed. Of such 
 kinds a second or third sowing at intervals will provide 
 a succession. Preventing the formation of seeds, if possi- 
 ble, is like manure to annuals, in prolonging their life 
 and flowering. 
 
 Below is given a classified list of some of the best 
 continuous flowering kinds, which may be raised from 
 seed. The terms hardy, half-hardy and tender are ab- 
 breviated H,, Hh., and T. respectively. Perennials are 
 indicated by P. ; all others are annuals. 
 
ANNUALS 
 
 257 
 
 Alonsoa, Hh., P. Rich scarlet flowers. A white variety 
 is also to be had. Height, 1>^ to 2 feet. They may be 
 propagated, both by seeds and cuttings. They need a 
 light, rich soil. Sow the seeds in February, in the hot- 
 bed or greenhouse, and plant them out in May, 1 foot apart. 
 Asters, Hh. These fall flowers, known as the China and 
 German asters, present an almost endless number of 
 varieties. The flowers are 
 large, double and o£ various 
 shades of red, blue and white. 
 Some of them, especially the 
 Washington asters, rival 
 chrysanthemums. They grow 
 from 1 to 2 feet high. Sow 
 in the middle of March, in 
 a coldframe, or in the open 
 ground, in early May. If 
 sown in the fall and win- 
 tered in a cool greenhouse, 
 they may be had in bloom 
 in the spring. For fine flow- 
 ers they should have rich 
 soil, stand about 10 to 12 
 inches apart, and never re- 
 ceive any check. 
 Bailey writes as follows on 
 
 these flowers (Bull. 90, Cornell 
 
 Exp. Sta.) : " The China asters 
 
 are among the best of all the 
 
 annual garden flowers. They 
 
 are of the easiest culture, most 
 
 free of bloom, and comprise a 
 
 multitude of forms and colors. ^^^: Showing the habit of _oiie of 
 
 They are therefore admirably 
 adapted to profuse and gen- 
 erous effects in schemes of planting. They are also worthy of 
 wide attention because they are adapted to many of the pur- 
 poses for which chrysanthemums are grown, and they can be 
 raised to perfection wholly without use of glass. They attain 
 their best in the decline of the season, from late August till 
 
 [.CJiautk^rJa 
 
 the types of tall asters,— Truf- 
 faut's peony-flowered. 
 
 Q 
 
258 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 frost, at a time when many of the annuals and the greater 
 part of the perennials are spent and gone. No garden flow- 
 ers carry such a profusion of bloom and color down to the 
 very closing in of winter. Last fall our aster border still had 
 blooms when the snows fell in November, and when even the 
 wild goldenrods had waned and died." 
 
 Bartonia, H. Flowers golden yellow, glistening in the sun- 
 light ; fragrant in the evening; flowering all summer. B- 
 aiirea grows 3 feet high, while B. mirea nana attains a 
 height of 1}4 feet. They need a moist situation and 
 should always be grown in masses. Sow early, where they 
 are to grow. The dwarf may be planted 1 foot apart; the 
 former, 2 feet. 
 Brachycome, Hh. Handsome for either edgings or masses. 
 The flowers somewhat resemble those of the single daisy, 
 and are fine for cutting. The original color was blue, but 
 there is now also a white variety. Plant bushy; 1 foot 
 high. Start the seed in March, in a hotbed or other 
 warm place. They may also be sown the last of May, in 
 the open, but bloom later. Set the plants 6 to 8 inches 
 apart in beds. 
 Calliopsis (Coreopsis), H. Splendid for rich and strong effects. 
 Of rapid growth and slender, branching habit, they attain 
 a height of 3 feet or more. They flower all summer, and. 
 are useful for cutting. The colors are orange, yellow, and 
 rich, reddish brown. The plants must have room to spread. 
 Two feet will be close enough. The seed may be sown at the 
 end of March, in the open ground, as these plants are of 
 very hardy nature. For very early bloom the plants should 
 should be grown in mild heat, and set out in May. Core- 
 opsis lanceolata and its variety, "Golden Glory," are closely 
 allied hardy perennials, growing only from 12 to 18 inches 
 high. Their flowers are golden yellow, and the plants are 
 of dense, low, leafy habit. 
 Chrysanthemum, H. Of the annual Chrysanthemums, C. 
 multicaule and C. coronariiim are of especial value as bed. 
 ders. The former has yellow flowers, and grows to a height 
 of 4 feet. The latter grows but 13^ feet high, and is white. 
 Both flower freely all summer. Sow the seed in March, 
 in a mild hotbed, or in the house for early flowering plants. 
 
ANNUALS 259 
 
 Or they may be sown where they are to grow as soon as 
 the soil will permit. The latter needs about one foot space 
 in the beds; the former moi*e. 
 
 Clarkia, H. a bed of the double white or rose-colored C. 
 elegans is very beautiful. The plants grow 1}4 feet high. 
 They may also be used for edgings to beds of taller plants. 
 The dwarf variety, called White Tom Thumb, grows only 
 about 10 inches high. They grow in any soil. Sow the seed 
 in March, or later, in the open ground. For very early 
 bloom sow the seed in September. If the winter is mild 
 they will survive. A few can always be depended on. Plant 
 them 1 foot apart, in an open situation. 
 
 EsoHSCHOLTZiA, H. (Fig. 194). Originally from California. 
 Known as the California poppy. One foot in height; foliage 
 greyish. Flowers yellow, orange, and white, produced all 
 summer. Also to be had in double varieties. Of easy 
 culture. The seeds may be sown in the open border in 
 spring as soon as the ground will permit. But it is best 
 to obtain seeds during the summer or fall, as soon as they 
 are ripe, and sow for the following season where they are to 
 grow. Thin to about 10 inches apart. 
 
 Gaillardia, Hh. These are beautiful; the only objection to 
 them is that the seeds germinate slowly, and must be sown 
 as early as February in the greenhouse or a hotbed. They 
 do best in a rich, light soil. The plants grow 2 feet high 
 and flower freely through the summer and fall. Set the 
 plants from 12 to 18 inches apart. G. ambJyodon is a fine 
 red. G. picta (Aurora Borealis) is scarlet and yellow. 
 
 GiLiA, H. Of the Gilias, G. achillecefolia, G. rosea and G. 
 linifolia are satisfactory and pretty for bedding. The first 
 two grow 1 foot or more in height, the one being blue, the 
 other rose-color. The last mentioned grows but 6 inches 
 high and has white flowers. It is a good edging kind. They 
 bloom through the spring and summer and are desirable for 
 cutting. Unless done when they are very small they do not 
 transplant w^ell. It is a good plan, therefore, to sow the seed 
 in the fall where they are to grow, and cover the beds 
 lightly during winter with leaves. 
 
 GoDETiA, H. These bloom profusely and continuously from early 
 till late, and are very handsome. Colors, red, pink, and 
 
194. Eschscholtzia mai'itima of tiorists. One-half size. 
 
ANNUALS 261 
 
 white, several shades. They grow to a height of about 1/^ 
 feet. Let them stand a foot or more apart. They grow too 
 freely in rich soil, so should be planted in rather poor. 
 Sow the seed in March in a hotbed and transplant them to 
 their beds the latter half of May, or when the weather has 
 become settled. 
 
 Marigold, H. Three or four species of this plant (Tagetes) 
 are found in gardens, and are old friends. The African 
 grow about 2 feet high and are valuable for mass effects 
 and distant groups. Some object to them on account of the 
 ill-scent of the herbage when handled. The flowers are 
 large, yellow, or orange, and come in summer and autumn. 
 Sow the seeds in a coldframe in March, and transplant 
 them to beds in May, 14 inches apart or more. The Dwarf 
 French, of yellow and brown colors, are suitable for closer 
 planting in small beds and borders. Legion of Honor is a 
 pretty dwarf. 
 
 MiMULUS, H. P. Under this genus may be mentioned M. hybri- 
 dus cicpreus as a useful kind. The flowers are bright, of 
 mixed colors, orange and crimson, and are produced from 
 early till late. The plant grows 1}4 feet in height. It does 
 best when somewhat shaded, but is not particular about the 
 soil. Sow in the open as soon as it is dry enough. 
 
 Nasturtium. See Tropaeolum. 
 
 NEMOPHIL4, H. For a shady situation this plant is delicate 
 and pretty. iV. insignis grows 1 foot high, and blooms all 
 summer. Flowers blue. Sow in March in a frame and 
 transplant early. Set them 6 inches apart in the beds. Fall- 
 sown plants do nicely during the winter in a cool green- 
 house. 
 
 Pansy, H. The pansy is generally mentioned with plants suit- 
 able for partial shade, but it also thrives in other localities, 
 especially where the sun is not verj' hot nor the weather 
 very dry. It thrives at a low temperature. The seed should 
 be sown in the fall (September) if possible, in light, rich 
 well prepared soil. When they are well up they may be 
 transplanted to good, rich, loamy soil, 3 or 4 inches 
 apart. A frame or sheltered spot is the proper place. Here 
 they may be covered, at the approach of cold weather, with 
 a frame, with evergreen-boughs, or boards, to be removed 
 
262 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 whenever the weather is mild. The plants will make a good 
 growth before cold weather, and will be ready for a mass 
 of bloom the following spring. In hot summer weather they 
 bloom, but the flowers become small. Pansies delight in 
 cool weather and moisture. They may also be sown in the 
 spring as soon as the ground can be worked, but fall sow- 
 ing is generally preferable. 
 
 Papaver, H. Poppies are of the most brilliant tulip-like colors. 
 The Shirley race is distinct and of special value for bedding. 
 For continuity of bloom, allow no seed-pods to develop. The 
 plants grow 1 foot in height. A sandy loam suits them best. 
 The Shirley s bloom the first year. As they do not bear 
 transplanting, sow the seed in early spring where they are 
 to grow. 
 
 Petunia, H. P. Well known, and by all accorded a place near 
 the head of the list of bedding plants. The single blotched, 
 plain or fringed are pi-eferable, as bedders, to the double. 
 The colors are white and crimson. Height, 2 feet. Countess 
 of Ellesmere is a pink of solid color, excepting its white 
 throat. It is of compact habit, and comes practically true 
 from seed. Petunias do well in any garden, and may be 
 sown early in the hotbed, coldframe, or later in the open 
 ground. Set the plants 18 inches apart, and they will be 
 a mass of bloom all summer. 
 
 Phlox Drummondii, H. For clear and brilliant colors, the 
 many varieties of this, the only annual species of the Phlox 
 genus, are certaiulj^ unrivaled. The dwarf kinds are the 
 more desirable for ribbon beds, as they are not so "leggj\" 
 There are whites, pinks, reds and variegated of the most 
 dazzling brilliancy. The dwarfs grow 10 inches high, and 
 bloom continuously. Set them 8 inches apart in good soil. 
 Seed may be sown in the open ground in May, or for early 
 plants, in the hotbed in March. They may be sown close 
 in the fall if sown very late, so that the seeds will not start 
 till spring. 
 
 Poppy. (See Papaver.) 
 
 PoRTULACA. (See Plants for Edging, page 251.) 
 
 Salvia splendens, Hh. P. Of the numerous species of this 
 genus, the one mentioned is, beyond doubt, the best for 
 garden decoration, and has long been a favorite for this 
 
ANNUALS 263 
 
 purpose. The plant is a blaze of scarlet all summer. 
 Height, 2 to 23^ feet. Easily grown. Sow the seed in a 
 temperature of 60° to 70°. The plants may be set out 
 when the weather has become settled. Plant 18 inches 
 apart. 
 
 Tropceolum minus, H. The Dwarf Nasturtiums grow but 
 1 foot high. They flourish in the hottest weather, and in 
 poor soil. The flowers are scarlet, golden, cream, pink, 
 and sometimes almost black, and borne in the greatest 
 profusion. Fine effects are produced by planting them so 
 as to contrast with white or blue flowers. Sow in March, 
 in a temperature of 60°, or in the open ground like the 
 last. 
 
 Verbena, Hh. P. Fig. 195. Easily grown from seed, which 
 may be started in a hotbed in February or March. Once 
 transplanted, the plants may be set out in May. Plant 
 them 2 feet apart, or farther in rich soil. They love a 
 loam, and fresh soil each year. The colors are white, blue, 
 red, pUi'ple and pink, of various shades. Seedlings canno^; 
 be depended on when the separate colors are wanted, so 
 it is better to buy than to grow them. 
 
 Zinnia, H. The dull colors of the old-time Zinnias have 
 given place to the brightest shades of scarlet, rose, orange, 
 and yellow. They are easily grown and succeed almost 
 anywhere. Height, 2 feet. The flowers last a long time, 
 and are produced from June till frost. Sow in the open, 
 when danger of frost is past, and thin the plants to 2 
 feet apart. For earlier flowers, sow in March, in the win- 
 dow, hotbed or greenhouse. The white and orange Tom 
 Thumb are dwarf— growing about 6 or 8 inches high — and 
 may be used for edging. 
 
 ANNUAL CLIMBING PLANTS 
 
 The following, for arbors, verandas, etc., are some of 
 the best summer climbers, and are readily grown from 
 seed, flowering the first season. 
 Bryonopsis laciniosa, var. erythrocarpa, Hh. 10 feet. Small, 
 
 scarlet fruit, striped with white, about the size of cherries. 
 
 Sow in the garden when danger of frost is over. Tendrils. 
 
195. Bouquet of verbenas. 
 
CLIMBING ANNUALS 265 
 
 Cardiospermum Halicacabum. Hh. 5 to 10 feet. Has an 
 inflated membranous capsule, and is also known as Balloon 
 Vine. Sow as for Bryonopsis. 
 
 CoB(EA SCANDENS, T. P. 20 feet. Flowers the first season if 
 sown in March or earlier. Flowers purple. Tendrils. Sow 
 in light, sandy soil, pressing the thin seed down edgewise 
 into the soil. They will then need no further covering. 
 60° to 65° will suit them. Keep the soil barely moist till 
 they are up. 
 
 Convolvulus major, H. 15 feet Flowering freely. Showy. 
 The new Japanese strain of Morning-Glories are much 
 more brilliant in coloring. Twining. Sow as early as pos. 
 sible, in a warm, sunny place, when the soil is suitable. 
 
 DoLiCHOS Lablab, T. 10 to 20 feet. Flowers in clusters, 
 purple and white. Sow like the last. Known also as the 
 Hyacinth Bean. Twining. 
 
 Eccremocarpus scabra, Hh. P. 6 to 10 feet. Flowers tubular, 
 in clusters; orange. Graceful and pretty. If cut down in 
 the fall, and protected with leaves or straw, it will shoot up 
 the following season. Sow early, in a temperature of 60° 
 to 70°, or in the garden when the soil has become warm. 
 
 HuMULUs Japonicus, T. The Japanese Hop. An excellent, 
 rapid climber. The variety variegatus has leaves blotched 
 with white. Twining. 15 feet. Sow in deep, rich soil, as 
 soon as dry enough. 
 
 Ipomcea coccinea, H. 10 feet or more. Small scarlet flowers. 
 Twining. 
 I. Quamoclit, T. The "Cypress Vine." Delicately dissected 
 green foliage. Flowers rose, white, or scarlet. 10 feet or 
 more. Twining. 
 I. grandiflora, and others, T. The "Moon Flower," "Even- 
 ing Glory." 20 to 30 feet. Flowers large, white, opening 
 in the evening twilight. Twining. The last, to flower, 
 should, if possible, be started in March. A temperature of 
 65° or 70° insures rapid germination. If a small notch is 
 cut through the hard shell, the seeds germinate in four 
 or five days. The other kinds may be started early, or 
 sown in the open ground after danger of frost is past. 
 
 Maurandya Barclayana, Hh. P. A delicate and slender 
 climber. Purple flowers. 6 to 12 feet. There are also rose 
 
266 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 and white-flowered varieties. A leaf climber. Sow in 
 March, in a temperature of 60°. 
 
 Sweet Peas, H. 4 feet or more. Flowers pink, scarlet, 
 purple, blue, white and yellow, of various shades ; fragrant. 
 Useful for cutting and for low screens. The Sweet Pea has 
 been much improved during the last few years, and has 
 become one of the most popular flowers. It delights in a 
 heavy, though deep and rich, stiff loam. For early spring 
 bloom, sow the seed in the fall, 4 or 5 inches deep, giving 
 them a dry situation. In the spring it is well to make 
 several sowings at intervals, beginning as soon as the frost 
 is out of the ground. The other sowings may be at inter- 
 vals of two or three weeks till June. A successful method 
 is to sow them in trenches about 6 inches deep, covering 
 them, at first, with only one inch of soil. As the plants 
 grow the trench is filled up, an inch at a time, till full. 
 When the trench is about full they should be copiously 
 watered. Provide a support trellis of cords. Brush, as for 
 common peas, also answers. The more the flowers are 
 cut and used, the better it is for the plants. Keeping the 
 pods picked off, as they begin to grow, will prolong and 
 promote flowering. A little bone-meal worked into the sur- 
 face of the soil, among the plants, also has a good effect. 
 • Varieties of the Sweet Pea have become very numerous, and 
 the list changes from year to year. (See writings of Hutch- 
 ins, and Cornell Bulletins 111 and 127.) 
 
 Trop^olum majus, Hh. Well known, commonly under the 
 name of Nasturtiums. Flowers buff, pink, orange and scar- 
 let. 10 or 12 feet. T. peregrinum is the "Canary Bird 
 Flower," and is of more delicate appearance than the 
 ordinary kinds. Flowers pale yellow, fringed. Leaves pal- 
 mately lobed. Leaf climbers. Sow the Tropasolums, espe- 
 cially T. peregrinum, if possible, in March, in a tempera- 
 ture of 55° *o 60°. They may also be sown in the garden 
 where they are to grow, when it is safe. Give them 
 rich, light soil. 
 
BULBS AND TUBERS 267 
 
 5. Bulbous and Tuberous Plants 
 
 THE FALL- PLANTED BULBS 
 
 All kinds of bulbs are partial to a deep, rich, well- 
 drained soil. This is no small part of their successful 
 culture. The site selected should be well -drained, either 
 naturally or artificially. Again, in flattish lands, the 
 beds may be made above the surface, some 18 inches 
 high, and bordered with grass. A layer of rough stones 
 a foot deep is sometimes used in the bottom of ordinary 
 beds for drainage, and with good results, where other 
 methods are not convenient. The soil for beds should 
 be well enriched with old manure. Fresh manure should 
 never be used in the soil about bulbs, The addition of 
 leaf-mold and some sand also improves the texture of 
 heavy soils. For Lilies the leaf-mold may be omitted. 
 Let the spading be at least a foot deep. Eighteen inches 
 will be none too deep for Lilies. 
 
 The bulbs should be ordered some time in advance, if 
 possible, and are to be planted from September to the 
 middle of November. All kinds of bulbs look best 
 planted in masses, or at least in groups. Details as to 
 the time, depth and distance apart will be found under 
 the several kinds mentioned below. 
 
 During planting or previously, the surface of the beds 
 should be made somewhat rounding, to prevent water 
 standing on them in winter, which is always likely to 
 work damage. A layer of sand below the surface, or a 
 generous handful about each bulb, will also materially 
 assist in carrying away water from the bulbs. 
 
 As the time of severe winter freezing approaches, the 
 ground planted to bulbs should receive a mulch of leaves, 
 manure, or litter, to the depth of four inches or more, 
 according to the latitude. It will be well to let the 
 mulch extend one foot or more beyond the border of 
 
268 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 the beds. When cold weather is past, half of the mulch 
 should be removed. The remainder may be left on till 
 there is no longer danger of frost. Upon removing the 
 last of the mulch, lightly work over the surface of the 
 soil among the bulbs with a thrust-hoe. If the weather 
 happens to be very bright during the blooming season, 
 the duration of the flowers may be prolonged by light 
 shading— as with muslin, or slats placed above the beds. 
 If planted where they have partial shade from surround- 
 ing trees or shrubbery, the beds will not need attention 
 of this kind. 
 
 Lilies, and other flowers which will be mentioned below, 
 may remain undisturbed for years. Others will be greatly 
 benefited, and afford more satisfactory results, if taken 
 up and replanted every two or three years. Crocuses 
 and Tulips may stand two years, but Hyacinths should 
 be taken up each year and replanted, as will be ex- 
 plained. Tulips also will be better for the same treat- 
 ment. 
 
 Bulbs which are to be taken up, or removed in the 
 spring, should be left in the ground after flowering, till 
 the foliage turns yellow, or dies down naturally. This 
 gives the bulbs a chance to ripen. Cutting off the 
 foliage and digging too early is a not uncommon and 
 serious mistake. Bulbs which have been planted in the 
 border, or in beds, and which are wanted for summer 
 bedding-plants, may be dug with the foliage on and 
 "heeled-in" under a tree, or along a fence, to stand till 
 ripened. The foliage should be injured as little as possi- 
 ble, as the foliage of this year makes the flowers of the 
 next. When the foliage has turned yellow or died down, 
 the bulbs — after cleaning, and curing them for a few 
 hours in the sun — may be stored in the cellar or other 
 cool, dry place, to await fall planting. 
 
 Following are the chief kinds of bulbs for setting in 
 the fall: 
 
RAISING BULBS 269 
 
 Hyacinths. The bulbs of Hyacinths may be planted from Octo- 
 ber till freezing weather. Set them from 4 to 5 inches 
 deep — a little shallower in heavy soils — and about 4 to 6 
 inches apart. They are not quite hardy at the North unless 
 protected, so should always have a winter mulch where the 
 ground freezes hard in winter. Hyacinth bulbs are all 
 imported. Over 200 varieties are extensively grown, but 
 many of the varieties are very similar. Most any of the 
 single sorts are readily forced. Generally speaking, the 
 singles are preferable. For bedding purposes, medium or 
 small-sized bulbs are preferable and cheaper. 
 Tulips. September is the best time for planting these, but 
 as the beds are usually occupied at this time, planting 
 will have to be postponed till October or November. For 
 garden culture the Single Early Tulips are the best. There 
 are Early Double-flowered varieties also. Some pi'efer the 
 double, PS their flowers last longer. Late Tulips are gor- 
 geous, but occupy the beds too long in the spring. Tulips 
 are quite hardy, but are benefited by the winter mulch. 
 For simple designs in colors, they are the most brilliant in 
 effect of all bulbs. In working out such patterns, the utmost 
 care should be used to have the lines and curves uniform, 
 which is only to be secured by marking out the design, and 
 careful planting. Foi'mal planting is, however, hj no means 
 necessary for pleasing effects. Borders, lines and masses of 
 single colors, or groups of mixed colors which harmonize, are 
 always in order and pleasing. Clear colors are preferable to 
 neutral tints. As varieties vary in height and season of bloom- 
 ing, only named varieties should be ordered. 
 Crocus. The Crocus is useful as a border-plant for other beds, 
 for small groups, or beds to itself. It loves a sunny situa- 
 tion and a well-drained soil. Two kinds are commonly cul- 
 tivated. One is the Autumn Crocus (C. sativus). The 
 other is the spring-flowering (C versicolor). The latter is 
 the more popular. The bulbs should be planted as early as 
 possible, and not later than the first of October, if it can be 
 avoided. They grow if kept out of the ground, and will, 
 therefore, suffer when planted late. It is advisable to get 
 the best corms, and those under name. 
 Narcissus. Daffodils, Jonquils and the Poet's Narcissus, all 
 
19(5. Tulips, the warmest of spring flowers. 
 
RAISING BULBS 271 
 
 are perfectlj^ hardy. The polyanthus section, however, which 
 includes the Paper-white Narcissus, and Sacred Lily or 
 Chinese Joss-Flower, are not hardy except with unusually 
 good protection, and are, therefore, most suitable for grow- 
 ing indoors. It is common to allow the hardy sorts to take 
 care of themselves when once planted. This they will do, 
 but mvich more satisfactory results will be had by lifting 
 and dividing the clumps every three or four years. A single 
 bulb in a few years forms a large clump. In this condition 
 the biilbs are not pi'operly nourished, and consequently do 
 not flower well. Lifting is preferably done in August or 
 September, when the foliage has died down and the bulbs 
 are ripe. 
 These flowers are well suited to pai'tially shaded places, and 
 will grow and please wherever good taste may place them. 
 They should be freely used, as they are fragrant, bright of 
 color, and easily managed — growing among shrubbery, trees, 
 and in places where other flowers would refuse to grow. They 
 should l)e planted in clumps or masses, in September or Octo- 
 ber, setting the bulbs from 5 to 8 inches apai't, according to 
 size, and 3 or 4 inches deep. If necessary to move them in 
 the spring, follow the instructions pi-eviously mentioned under 
 Bulbs. Several species and numberless varieties, both double 
 and single, are grown. A few good types only can be men- 
 tioned. 
 Daffodils, or Trumpet Narcissus. 
 
 Single-floxvered, Yellow. — Golden Spur, Trumpet Major. 
 PT/ufe.— Albicans. 
 
 White and 1>//om'. — Empress, Horsefleldi. 
 Double-flowering, I^e?/oir. — Incompai'able fl. pi., Von Sion. 
 White.— A\\i2i plena odorata. 
 Poet's Narcissus, or Daffodil. Flowers white, with yellow 
 
 cups edged crimson. Very fragrant. 
 Jonquils. These have vei'y fragrant yellow flowers, both 
 
 double and single, and are old garden favorites. 
 Polyanthus Narcissus. These will be mentioned under the 
 chapter on window gardening. 
 Snow-drop {Galanthiis nivalis). These are well known. The 
 snow is scarcely gone before they appear. When once 
 planted, they may remain for years. Plant thick, in 
 
272 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 groups or masses in the boi'der, or scatter them about the 
 lawns. September or October is the proper season. 
 Chionodoxa, Spikes of intense blue flowers, coming with 
 Snow-drops, and lasting a long time in perfection. Plant 
 them like Snow-drops, as early in the fall as the bulbs 
 can be ODtained. 
 SciLLA {ScUIa Sihirica). Also known as the Star Hyacinth. 
 Flowers blue, coming early, like the last. They may be 
 used like Snow-drops. The bulbs should be planted 2 
 inches deep, in October, to remain undisturbed thereafter. 
 Winter Aconite {Emnthis hyemalis). Bright yellow blos- 
 soms, appearing even before the Snow-drops, and continu- 
 ing in flower for several weeks. Perfectly hardy, growing 
 about 3 inches high. Plant them as soon as obtained. 
 They require little attention after once planting. All of 
 the last four genera will grow in any garden soil. 
 LiLY-OF-THE-VALLEY {ConvallaHa) . These are of the easiest 
 culture, and no garden is complete without them. All that 
 is necessary is some shade and a good loamy or sandy 
 soil. The pips may be planted any time from Novem- 
 ber on. 
 Lilies. If good drainage is provided, Lilies will grow in 
 any ordinary, fairly rich soil. The instructions previously 
 given may be followed, but it is not necessary to make the 
 soil as light as is sometimes done. Deep working, how- 
 ever, is always desirable; 18 inches, or even 2 feet, will 
 be none too deep. A layer of sand, or a handful placed 
 about each bulb, is excellent practice. For all Lilies it 
 is safer to provide good winter protection in the form of a 
 mulch of leaves or manure, and extending beyond the bor- 
 ders of the planting. This should be from 5 inches to 
 a foot deep, according to the latitude or locality. 
 Where Lilies are to be moved from one part of the grounds 
 to another, it may be done carefully in the spring after growth 
 has started. They should be guarded against becoming dry, 
 and replanted as quickly as possible. Most of the Lilies like 
 partial shade. Planting them where they will be shaded from 
 the hot noon-day sun by shrubbery, trees, or buildings, not 
 only tends to improve the flowers, but helps to make the soil 
 more comfortable for the bulbs during the summer. The well- 
 
LILIES 273 
 
 known L. candidum is an exception, preferring an open 
 
 situation. Plant the bulbs of Lilies in October or November, 
 
 excepting L. candidum and I/, excelsum,. L. auratum, should 
 
 be set 10 or 12 inches deep; the others from 4 to 6. Some 
 
 of the best kinds are mentioned below: 
 
 L. CANDIDUM (Annunciation Lily). White. 3 to 4 feet high. 
 It makes an autumn growth, and should, therefore, be planted 
 in August. Set the bulbs from 4 to G inches deep. 
 
 L. SPECIOSUM {L. lancifoimm), var. precox. White, tinged 
 with pink; bearing several flowers on a stem about 3 feet 
 high. 
 L. SPECIOSUM var. kubrum. Rose color, spotted with red. 
 
 L. Brownii. Flowers white inside, chocolate-colored outside. 
 The stems grow about 3 feet high, bearing from 2 to 4 
 tubular flowers. Not difficult to manage with good protec- 
 tion and drainage. The bulbs are impatient of being long 
 kept out of the ground. After planting, they should not be 
 disturbed as long as they flower well. 
 
 L. Hansoni. Dark yellow. Stems 3-4 feet high; each produc- 
 ing from 6 to 12 flowers. 
 
 L. EXCELSUM (L. IsabelUnum). Rich buff color, with delicate 
 spots. Plants about 3-5 feet high, with from 3 to a dozen 
 flowers on a stem. Plant the bulbs in September. 
 
 L. LONGiFLORUM. White. Large tubular flowers, 2 to 8 on a 
 stem. Height about 2K feet. 
 
 L. Batemann:^. Apricot yellow. Six to 12 flowers on 
 stems 3-4 feet high. 
 
 L. AURAJUM (Japanese Gold-banded Lily). Immense white 
 flowers banded with yellow and dotted with red or purple, 
 from 3 to 12 on a stem. Height, 3-4 feet. The bulbs 
 need thorough protection, good drainage, and should be 
 planted 10 or 12 inches deep. 
 
 L. Leichtlinii. Flowers clear j-ellow, with small, dark spots, 
 10 to 12 on a stem. Height, 4 feet. 
 
 L. MONADELPHUM. Ycllow tubular-shaped flowers in clusters 
 of G to a dozen or more. Stems 2}4 feet tall. 
 
 L. ELEGANS {L. Thunbergianiim) , var. Alice Wilson. Lemon- 
 yellow. Stems 2 feet high, bearing from 2 to 8 flowers. 
 L. ELEGANS, var. FULGENS ATROSANGUiNEUM. Dark crimson. 
 Height 1 foot. 
 
 R 
 
274 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 SUMMER BULBS AND TUBERS 
 
 Gladiolus. Of summer and fall-blooming bulbous plants 
 
 these are, perhaps, the most widely popular. The showy 
 
 kinds cultivated are, with i*are exceptions, hybrids or their 
 
 descendants. The colors range from scai'let and purple, to 
 
 white, rose, and pure yellow. The plants are of slender, 
 
 erect habit, growing from 2 to 3 feet high. They dislike a 
 
 heavy clay soil. A light loam or sandy soil suits them best. 
 
 They should have a new place every year, if possible, and 
 
 always an open sunny situation. 
 
 The corms may be planted 2 inches deep in heavy soils, 
 
 and 4 in light soils. For a succession, they may be planted at 
 
 short intervals, the earliest planting being of smaller corms 
 
 in the early spring as soon as the soil is dry enough to work; 
 
 later the larger are to be planted — the last setting being not 
 
 later than the Fourth of July. This last planting will afford 
 
 fine late flowers. 
 
 The successive plantings may be in the same bed among 
 those set earlier, or they may be grouped in iinoccupied nooks, 
 or portions of the boi'der. The plants may stand as close as 
 6 inches from each other. The earlier planting may be — say 
 a foot apart to admit of later settings between. 
 
 Late in the fall, after frosts, the corms are to be dug, cleaned, 
 and dried in the sun and air for a few hours and then stored 
 away in boxes about 2% inches deep in a cool, dark and dry 
 place. 
 
 The varieties are perpetuated and multiplied by the little 
 corms which appear about the base of the large new corm 
 which is formed each year. These small corms may be 
 taken off in the spring and sown thickly in drills. Many of 
 them will make flowering plants by the second season. They 
 are treated like the large corms in the fall. 
 
 Gladioli are easily grown from seed also, but this method 
 can not be depended on to perpetuate desirable varieties, which 
 can only be reproduced by the cormels. Some of the best flow- 
 ers may be cross-pollinated, or allowed to form seed in the 
 usual manner— the seed sown thickly in drills, and shaded till 
 the plantlets appear, then carefully cultivated, will afford a 
 
GLADIOLUS AND DAHLIA 275 
 
 crop of small conns iu the fall. These may be stored for the 
 winter, like the other young corms, and, like them, many will 
 flower the second season, affording a great variety, and quite 
 likely some new and striking kinds. Those which do not flower 
 should be reserved for further trial. They often prove finer 
 than those first to flower. 
 
 Gladiolus Childsii is the name under which is being sent out 
 a set of tall -growing varieties with very large flowers. Of 
 their merits the writer is not as yet prepared to speak per- 
 sonally. The Lemoine and Leichtlinii hybrids are interesting 
 and show some handsome forms, but on the whole are, per- 
 haps, not as desirable for general purposes as some other 
 varieties. 
 Dahlia. Of showy plants for the garden, there are none more 
 easily cultivated. The double or Show Dahlias require 
 only plenty of food and moisture, while the single and 
 other kinds, the writer has found, will gi'ow and flourish in 
 almost any soil, and under any of the conditions ordinarily 
 met with in the garden. 
 The various sorts may be grouped into five classes. The 
 Show Dahlia is the large familiar double-flowered type. The 
 Pompon or Bouquet Dahlias have smaller double flowers, 
 and dwarf er habit. The Cactus Dahlia has flowers with broad, 
 flat florets, which are somewhat twisted, giving them a charac- 
 teristic and striking appearance. It is a recent type. The 
 Single Dahlias have handsome single flowers of many brilliant 
 colors and styles of variegation. The Dwai-f, or Bedding class, 
 is mainly single, and grows only 1 or 2 feet high. They 
 are very free of bloom and desirable for the purpose indicated 
 by their name. 
 
 One objection to the old Dahlia was its lateness of bloom. 
 But by starting the roots early in a frame, or in boxes which 
 are covered up at night, the plants may be had in flower, 
 several weeks earlier than usual. They may be stai-ted in 
 April, or at least three weeks in advance of planting time. 
 Before, or shortly after starting the roots, they should be 
 divided with a stout knife so that a piece of old stem, with 
 a bud, will be attached to each tuber. These are then set in 
 the box in the moist earth. Little water will be required 
 till they start. When they begin shooting up, the plants 
 
276 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 should have the full sun, and air, on all mild daj^s. They 
 will then make a slow, sturdy growth. All forcing should 
 be avoided. These plants, set out when tho.re is no longer 
 
 197. A modern dahlia and its ancestor. Each half size. 
 
 danger of frost, and well watered before completely covering 
 the roots, will grow right on, and often commence blooming 
 in July. 
 
 Dormant roots may be set out in May. The roots, unless 
 small, should be divided before planting, as a single strong 
 root is usually better than a whole clump. The roots of all 
 but the Dwarf should be set about 3 feet apart, in rows. 
 In poor soils none but the first class will need stakes. All 
 but these the writer prefers to grow in rather poor soil, and 
 
DAHLIA AND TUBEROSE 277 
 
 not water * unless absolutely necessary. They then have a 
 dwarfer habit, and if the flowers are not so large, the plants 
 begin to bloom soon and flower profusely. For the finest 
 flowers, however, with any of the Dahlias, a rich and deep 
 soil, with good cultivation and artificial watering during the 
 summer, are the requisites. Staking will also be necessary. 
 
 The 'roots may be left in the ground till the approach of 
 freezing weather, and for a week after the tops have been cut 
 by the fro«t. When dug they should be left out, exposed to 
 the sun and air for a couple of days to dry, covering them at 
 night if the weather is frosty. The dry soil having been 
 shaken off, the roots may be stored away in a dry, cool 
 place. Any place that would answer for potatoes will keep 
 Dahlia roots. 
 
 In addition to multiplication by division, as previously men- 
 tioned, Dahlias are also easily propagated by seeds, and cut- 
 tings of the tender shoots. The latter should always be cut 
 just below a joint, so that there will be a pair of buds near 
 the lower end of the cutting. For further information and 
 varieties, consult Peacock on "The Dahlia", and Cornell 
 Bulletin 128. 
 
 Tuberose, This plant, with its tall spikes of waxen and 
 fragrant white flowers, is well known. It is a strong feeder, 
 and loves warmth, plenty of water while growing, and a 
 deep, rich and well-drained soil. 
 
 The bulbs may be set out in the garden or border the last 
 of May or in June, covering them about one inch deep. Pre- 
 paratory to planting, the old, dead roots at the base of the bulb 
 should be cut away and the pips or young bulbs about the sides 
 removed. After keeping them till their scars are dried over, 
 these pips may be planted 5 or G inches apart in drills. 
 With good soil and cultivation they will make blooming bulbs 
 for the following year. 
 
 Before planting the large bulbs, it may be well to examine 
 the points, to determine whether they are likely to bloom. The 
 tuberose blooms but once. If there is a hard, woody piece of 
 old stem in the midst of the dry scales at the apex of the bulb, 
 it has bloomed, and is of no value except for producing pips. 
 LikeM'ise if, instead of a solid core, there is a brownish, dry 
 cavity extending from the tip down into the middle of the bulb, 
 
27<S PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 the heart has rotted or dried up, and the bulb is worthless as 
 far as blooming is concerned. 
 
 Bulbs of blooming size set in the border in June flower 
 toward the close of September. They may be made to flower 
 three or four weeks sooner by starting them early in some 
 warm place, where they may be given a temperature of about 
 GO^ to 70°. Prepai-e the bulbs as above, and place theto with 
 their tips just above the surface in about 3 or 4-inch pots, in 
 light, sandy soil. Water them thoroughly, afterwards sparingly, 
 till the leaves have made considerable growth. These plants 
 may be turned out into the open ground the last of May or in 
 June, and will probably flower in early September. 
 
 Just before frost dig up the bulbs, cut off the tops to within 
 2 inches of the apex of the bull). They may then be placed in 
 shallow boxes and left out in the sun and air for a week or 
 more, to cure. Each evening, if the nights are cold, they should 
 be removed to some room where the temperature will not fall 
 ])elow 40°. When the outer scales have become dry, the re- 
 nuiining soil may be shaken off and the bulbs stored away in 
 sli allow boxes for the winter. They keep best in a temperature 
 of 4.5° to ,50°. It should never fall below 40°. 
 
 The Dwarf Pearl, originating in 1870, has long been popular, 
 and is still s) with many. But others, the writer included, 
 have come to prefer the old, tall kind, tlie flowers of which, 
 even if not so large, are perfect in form and seem to open 
 better. 
 
 6. Hardy Herbaceous Perennials 
 
 The delights of the herbaceous border have already 
 been laid before the reader. (See pages 145-147, 217- 
 220), but details may be useful. 
 
 Perennial herbs are propagated in various ways, — by 
 seeds, and by cuttings of the stems and roots, but mostly 
 by the easy method of division. The seed must often 
 be sown as soon as ripe, as it is slow of germination; and 
 it often takes from 2 to 4 years to grow blooming plants 
 in this way. 
 
 To facilitate making a selection, the plants in the fol- 
 lowing list are arranged according to their blooming sea- 
 
PLANTS FOR THE BORDER 279 
 
 son, beginning with the earliest. The name of the month 
 indicates when they usually commence to bloom. In most 
 cases both the scientific''^ and popular names are given; 
 then follows the height; next the flowering season; and 
 lastly, the color of the flowers, and other items. The 
 descriptions are necessarily brief. It should be understood 
 that the blooming season of plants is not a fixed period, 
 but varies more or less with localities and seasons. 
 These dates are applicable to most of the middle and 
 northerTi states. 
 
 LIST OF HARDY BORDER PLANTS 
 
 March 
 
 Anemone hlanda (Blue Wind-flower). 6 in. March-May. Sky- 
 bhie star-like flowers. Foliage deeply cut. For border and 
 rockwork. 
 
 Sangninaria Canadensis (Bloodroot). 6 in. March-April. Pure 
 white. Glaucous foliage. Partial shade. Border or rock- 
 work. 
 
 April 
 
 Arabis alhida (Mountain Rock-cress). 6 in. April-June. 
 Flowers pure white; close heads iu profusion. Fragrant. 
 For dry places and rock-work. 
 
 Aubrietia deltoidea (Purple Rock-cress). G in. April-June. 
 Small purple flowers in great profusion. 
 
 Bellis perennis (Daisy). 4-6 in. April-July. Flowers white, 
 pink or red; single or double. The double varieties are 
 the more desirable. Cover the plants in winter with leaves. 
 May be raised from seed, like pansies. 
 
 Claytonia Vlrglnica (Spring Beauty). Gin. April-May. Clus- 
 ters of light pink flowers. Partial shade. From six to a 
 dozen should be set together. 
 
 *The scientific or botanical names are given only for the purpose of 
 enabling the reader to find the plants in catalogues and books, not for 
 the purpose of expressing any opinion as to the proper nomenclature 
 of the plants. 
 
280 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Dodecatheon 3Ieadia (Sliooting Star). 1 ft. April-May. Red- 
 dish piirple flowers, orange-yellow eye, in clusters. Cool, 
 shady location. Plant several in a place. 
 
 Dorotiicitm plantagineum var. exceJsnm (Dog's-bane.) 20 in. 
 April-June. Large, showy flowers; orange-yellow. Bushy 
 plants. 
 
 Hepatica acutiloba (Liver Leaf). 6 in. April-Ma5\ Flowers 
 small but numerous, varying white and pink. Partial shade. 
 
 Iheris sempervirens (Hardy Candytuft). 10 in. April-Maj'. 
 Small white flowers in clusters; profuse. Large, spreading 
 evergreen tufts. 
 
 Lychnis alpina (Alpine Lamp-flowerj. 6 in. April-May. 
 Flowers star-like, in showy heads; pink. For border and 
 rockery. 
 
 3fyosofis disslfijiora (Early Forget-me-not). 6 in. April-June. 
 Small clusters of deep sky-bhie flowers. Tufted habit. 
 
 M. lyalustris var. semperflorens (Everblooming F.). 10 in. 
 Light blue; spreading habit. 
 
 Mertensia Virginica (Blue Bells). 1 ft. April-May. Flowers 
 blue, changing to pink ; pendent; tubular; not showy, but 
 beautiful. Rich soil. Partial shade. 
 
 Pa'onia Moutaii (Tree Paeony). See May, Paeonia. 
 
 Phlox suhnlafa (Moss Pink). G in. April-June. Numerous 
 deep-pink, small flowers; creeping habit; evergreen. Suit- 
 able for dry places as a covering plant. 
 
 Trilliunis. Of several species; are always attractive and use- 
 ful in the border. (Fig. 198.) They are common in rich 
 woods and copses. Dig the tubers in late summer and plant 
 them directly in the border. The large ones will bloom 
 the following spring. The same may be said of the ery- 
 thronium, or dog's-tooth violet or adder' s-tongue (Fig. 199), 
 and of very many other early wild flowers. 
 
 May 
 
 Ajuga reptans. 6 in. May-June. Spikes of purple flowers. 
 
 Grows well in shady places; spreading. A good cover 
 plant. 
 
 Alys.sum saxatile var. compactum (Madwort). 1 ft. May- 
 June. Flowers fragrant; in clusters; clear golden-yellow. 
 
198. Tbe wild Trillium grandiliorum. 
 
282 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 199. Erytlironivim Amerieanum, half size. 
 
 Foliage silvery. Well-drained soil. One of the best yellow 
 
 flowers. 
 Aquilegia glandulosa and others (Columbine). Fig. 200. 1 
 
 foot. May-June. Deep-blue sepals; white petals. Aqui- 
 
 legias are old favorites. (See June.) 
 Convallaria majalis (Lily-of-the-Valley). 8 in. May-June. 
 
 Racemes of small white bells; fragrant. Well-known. 
 
 Partial shade. (See page 272.) 
 Corydalis nobilis (Fumitory). 1 ft. May-June. Large 
 
 clusters of fine yellow flowers. Bushy, upright habit. 
 
 Does well in partial shade. 
 
HARDY BORDER PLANTS 283 
 
 Dicevtra specfabllis (Bleeding-Heart). 2}4 ft. May-June. 
 Well known. Racemes of heart-shaped, deep-pink and 
 white flowers. Will bear partial shade. 
 
 Iris crisfafa (Crested Iris). 6 in. May-June. Flowers blue, 
 fringed with yellow. Leaves sword-shaped. 
 
 /. Germanica (German Iris). 12-15 in. Maj^-June. Numer- 
 ous varieties and colors. Large flowers, 3-4 on a stem. 
 Broad, glaucous, sword-shaped leaves. 
 
 Pieonia officinalis (Paeonia). 2 ft. May-June. This is the 
 well-known Herbaceous Pseonia. There are numerous varie- 
 ties and hybrids. Lai'ge flowers, 4-6 inches across. Crim- 
 son, White, Pink, Yellow, etc. Suitable for lawn or the 
 l)order. 
 
 P. Moutan (Tree Paponia). 4 ft. April-May. Numerous 
 named varieties. Flowers as above, excepting yellow. 
 Branched, dense, shrubby habit. 
 
 Salvia })rate)ise (Meadow Sage). 2}4 ft. May-June, August, 
 Spikes of deep blue flowers. Branching from the ground. 
 
 Achillea Ptarmica, J!. j)l., var. "The Pearl." 1-2 ft. June- 
 August. Small, double white flowers, in few-flowered 
 clusters. Rich soil. 
 
 June 
 
 Anemone Pennsylvanica (Wind-flower). 18 in. June-Sep- 
 tember. White flowers on long stems. Erect habit. 
 Does well in the shade. 
 
 Anthericum Uliasfrxm (St. Bruno's Lily). 18 in. June-July. 
 Bell-like, white flowers in handsome spikes. 
 
 Aquilegia chrijsautha (Golden-spurred Columbine). 3 ft. 
 June-August. Golden flowers with slender spurs; fragrant. 
 
 A. cmrnlea (Rocky Mountain Columbine). 1 ft. June-August. 
 Flowers with white petals and deep-blue sepals, 2-3 inches 
 in diameter. (See May.) 
 
 Aspernla oclorata (Woodruff). 6 in. June-July. Small 
 white flowers. Herbage fragrant when wilted. Does well in 
 shade; spreading habit. Used for flavoring drinks, scent- 
 ing and protecting garments. 
 
 Asfilhe Japonica (Incorrectly called Spiraea). 2 ft. June- 
 July. Small white flowers in a feathery infloi'escence. 
 Compact habit. 
 

 mi 
 
 
 200. Common wild columbin 
 
 e. Handsome in cultivation. 
 
HARDY BORDER PLANTS 
 
 285 
 
 201. Campanula carpatliica. 
 
 202. Canterbury Bell. 
 
 Callirlioe invoJucrata (Poppy Mallow). 10 in. June to Octo- 
 ber. Large crimson flowers, with white centers. Trailing 
 habit. For border and rockery, 
 
 Cawpannla Carpathica (Carpathian Harebell). Fig. 201. 8 in. 
 June-September. Flowers deep blue. Tufted habit. For 
 border or rockery. Good for cutting. 
 
 C. glomerata var. Dahnrica. 2 ft. June-August. Deep pur- 
 ple flowers in terminal clusters. Branching from the ground. 
 Erect habit. 
 
 C. Mediuw, (Canterbury Bell) (Fig. 202). Is an old favorite. 
 It is biennial, but blooms the first season if sown early. 
 
 Corydalis lutea. 1 ft. June-September. Flowers yellow, in 
 terminal clusters. Loose branching habit. Glaucous foliage. 
 
286 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Dianthns plumarins (Scotch Pink). 10 in. June-July. White 
 
 and pink-ringed flowers on slender stems. Densely tufted 
 
 habit. 
 1). siiperbus (Fringed Pink). 18 in. July-August. Fringed 
 
 flowers. Lilac tint. 
 Dictamnus Fraxinella (Gas Plant). 3 ft. June. Flowers pur- 
 ple, showy, fragrant; in long spikes. Regular habit. 
 />.— var. alha. White. 
 Gaillardia aristata. 2 ft. June-October. Showy orange and 
 
 maroon flowers on long stems. Good for cutting. Hybrid 
 
 gaillardias offer quite a variety of brilliant colors. 
 Ileuchera sanguinea. 18 in. June-September. P"'lowers in 
 
 open panicles; scarlet, o:i clustered stems from a tufted 
 
 mass of pretty foliage. 
 Iris Ka'm2)feri (Japan Iris). 2-3 ft. June-July. Large flowers 
 
 of various colors, in variety. Green sword-like leaves. Dense 
 
 tufted habit. Prefers a moist situation. 
 Liatris spicata (Blazing Star). 2 ft. June-August. Spikes 
 
 of fine, small purple flowers. Slender foliage. Unbranched, 
 
 erect stems. Will grow in the poorest soil. 
 Papaver nudicatde (Iceland Poppy). 1 ft. June-October. 
 
 Bright yellow flowers. A close, dense habit. Erect, naked 
 
 stems. The varieties Album, white, and Miniatum, last 
 
 deep orange, are also desirable. 
 P. orieutale (Oriental Poppy). 2-4 ft. June. Flowers G-8 
 
 in. across; deep scai'let, with a purple spot at the base of 
 
 each petal. There are other varieties of pink, orange and 
 
 crimson shades. 
 Pentstemon harhatus var. Torreyi. 3-4 ft. June-September. 
 
 Crimson flowers in long spikes. Branching fi-om the base. 
 
 Erect habit. 
 Phlox paniculata (Perennial Phlox). 2-3 ft. June. A great 
 
 variety of colors in selfs and variegated forms. Flowers 
 
 borne in large, flat panicles, 
 Sudbeckia maxima. 5-6 ft. August. Large flowers; cone-like 
 
 center and long, drooping yellow petals. 
 Spiriea Filipendula (Dropwort). 3 ft. June-July. White 
 
 flowers in compact clusters. Tufted foliage, dark green and 
 
 handsomely cut. Erect stems. 
 Yucca filamentosa (Adam's Needle). 4-5 ft. June-July. 
 
HARDY BORDER PLANTS 287 
 
 Waxen white, pendulous, liliaceous flowers in a great thyrsus. 
 Leaves long, narrow, dark-green, with marginal filaments. 
 For the lawn, and for massing in large grounds. 
 
 July 
 
 AUhcfa rosea (Hollyhock). 5-8 ft. Summer and fall. Flowers 
 white, crimson, and yellow, lavender and purple. Stately 
 plants of spire-like habit; useful for the back of the border, 
 or beds and groups. The newer double varieties have 
 flowers as fine as a camellia. The plant is a biennial, but in 
 rich, well-drained soil and with some winter pi'otection it 
 becomes perennial. Easily grown from seed, blooming the 
 second year. Seeds may be sown in August in frames and 
 carried over winter in the same place. The first year's 
 bloom is visually the best. 
 
 Anthemis iixcforia (Yellow Chamomile). 12-18 in. July-No- 
 vember. Flowers bright yellow, 1-2 inches in diameter. 
 Useful for cutting. Dense, bushj^ habit. 
 
 Delphinium Chinense. 3 ft. July-September. Variable colors; 
 from deep blue to lavender and white. Fine for the border. 
 
 v. fonnosiim. 4 ft. July-September. Fine spikes of rich 
 blue flowers. One of the finest blue flowers cultivated. 
 
 Fnnkia Jancifolia. (See under August.) 
 
 HeJianthns nmltiflorus var. fl. pi. 4 ft. July-September. 
 Large double flowers, of a fine golden color. Erect habit. 
 A splendid flower. 
 
 Lychnis Viscaria var. Jfore pleno. 12-15 in. July- August. 
 Double, deep, rose-red flowers in spikes. For groups and 
 masses. 
 
 Monarda didyma. 2 ft. July-October. Showy scarlet flowers 
 in terminal heads. 
 
 Pentstemou grandiflorus. 2 ft. July-August. Leafy spikes of 
 showy purple flowers. 
 
 P. loevigatus var. Digitalis. 3 ft. July-August. Pure white 
 flowers in spikes, with purple throats. 
 
 Platycodon grand i flora {Campanula grandiflora). 3 ft. July- 
 September. Deep blue, bell-shaped flowers. Dense, fine, 
 erect habit. 
 
 P. Mariesii. 1 ft. July-September. Flowers larger; deep 
 violet-blue. Heavier foliage. 
 
288 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 August 
 
 Fmikla subcordata (Day Lily). 18 in. August-October. 
 Trumpet, lily-like, pure white flowers in clusters, borne upon 
 a stalk from the midst of a group of heart-shaped green 
 leaves. 
 
 I\ lancifoUa var. alba-marginata. July-August. Lavender 
 flowers. Lance-like leaves margined with white. 
 
 Kniphofia aloides, Tritoma uvaria (Flame Flower). 3 ft. 
 August-September. Bright orange- scarlet flowers, in close, 
 dense spikes, at the summit of several scape-like stems. 
 Leaves slender, forming a large tuft. For lawn and borders. 
 Hardy only when covered with litter or straw in winter. 
 
 Lobelia cardinalis (Cardinal Flower). 23^-4 ft. August-Sep- 
 tember. Flowers intense cardinal-red; of unrivaled bril- 
 liancy. Tall spikes. Stems clustered; erect. Native. 
 
 Pijvethrum tdiginostim (Giant Dai:>y). 3-5 ft. July-October. 
 Flowers white, with golden centers. About 2 in. across. 
 A stout, upright, bushy plant. Useful for cutting. 
 
 Budbeckia triloba, var. "Golden Glow." 6-7 ft. August-Sep- 
 tember. Large double golden yellow flowers in great pro- 
 fusion. Bushy habit. Cut off when done flowering. Leaves 
 appear at the base and a new crop of flowers, on stems about 
 1 ft. high appear, in October. 
 
 Solidago rigida (Golden-Rod). 3-5 ft. August-October. 
 Flowers large for this genus, in close, short racemes in a 
 corymbose-paniculate cluster. Fine, deep yellow. Erect habit. 
 One of the best of the Golden-Rods. 
 
 September 
 
 Anemone Japonica (Japanese Wind-flower). 2 ft. August- 
 October. Flowers large, bright red. One of the best autumn 
 flowers. 
 
 A. Japonica, var. alba. Flowers pure white, with yellow cen- 
 ters. Fine for cutting. 
 
 October 
 Chrysanthemums. The Chinese and Japanese Chrysanthemums, 
 so well known, are hardy in light, well-drained soils, if 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
 
 289 
 
 well protected with litter or leaves during the winter, and in 
 such situations are hardy without protection south of In- 
 dianapolis. Chrysanthemums are gross feeders, and should 
 have a rich soil. 
 There is a race of hardy or border chrysanthemums which is 
 again coming into favor, and it is sure to give much satisfac- 
 tion to those who desire flowers in latest fall. These chrys- 
 anthemums are much like the "artemisias" of our mother's 
 gardens, although improved in size, form, and in range of color. 
 
 203. A protection for chrysanthemums. 
 
 The growing of the florists' chrysanthemums is accomplished 
 only under glass and with the outlay of considerable time and 
 the application of skill; therefore the subject is not germane to 
 this book. Very good plants can be grown under a temporary 
 shed cover, as shown in Fig 203. The roof need not necessarily 
 be of glass. Under such a cover, also, potted plants, in bloom, 
 may be set for protection when the weather becomes too cold. 
 Respecting the cultivation of chrysanthemums, Bailey writes as 
 follows: "The growing of the plants to a single bloom does not 
 produce the most decorative results. It merely gives large 
 specimen blooms. I much prefer to grow from three to six 
 
290 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 blooms on a plant. The plants may be flowered in pots, or in 
 a solid soil bench. Very good small plants may be brought to 
 perfection in 6-inch pots, but the best results, in pot plants, 
 are to be obtained in 8-inch or 10-inch pots. If the plants are 
 to be used for decoration, they should, of course, be grown in 
 pots, but the best results for cut-flowers are usually obtained 
 by growing in the earth. In any case, the cuttings are made 
 fi'om the tips of basal or strong lateral shoots, late in Febru- 
 ary to May. If the plants are to be flowered in pots— in which 
 case they usually mature earlier— the cuttings may be started as 
 late as April, or even June; but if they are grown in the soil 
 and large plants are desired, the cuttings should be taken in 
 February or March. The plants which are flowered in the soil 
 are generally grown in pots until July. The grower must 
 decide how many blooms he desires on a plant, and then train 
 the plant accordingly, bringing up the different branches .*o 
 that they will all bloom at the same time." 
 
 There is a large special literature on chrysanthemums. 
 Current discussions may be found in the journals and in the 
 Cornell bulletins. 
 
 HARDY ORNAMENTAL GRASSES 
 
 Arundo Donax (Great Reed Grass). 10 ft. Tall, straight 
 
 stems; deep green. Broad, pointed foliage. 
 A. Donax var. variegata. Foliage striped with white. Both 
 
 of these at the North profit by protection with a mulch of 
 
 litter or manure. 
 Bambusa Metahe (Bamboo, syn. Arundlnaria). 4l-1 ft. Shrubby. 
 
 much branched stems. Almost evergreen. 
 Eriantlius Ravennce (Ravenna Grass). 4-7 ft. Forms hand- 
 some clumps of foliage. 
 Uulalia Japonica var. variegata (Japan Eulalia). 4-7 ft. 
 
 Leaves longitudinally striped with white. 
 E. Japonica var. zebrina (Zebra Grass). Leaves cross-barred 
 
 with yellow bands. 
 Festtica ovina var. glauca (Blue Fescue). 8 in. Foliage 
 
 glaucous, forming pretty tufts. Useful as an edging. 
 Panicum virgafum (Tall Prairie Grass). 4 ft. Culms slender 
 
 and wand-like. Very graceful. 
 
HARDY CLIMBERS 291 
 
 Phalaris amndinacea var. variegata (Striped Ribbon Grass). 
 
 2>2 ft. Leaves variegated with bands of white. 
 Stipa pinnata (Feather Grass). 18 in. Graceful slender 
 
 plumes of silky down. Should have light, rich soil. 
 
 7. Hardy Climbing Plants. 
 
 There is scarcely a garden in which climbing plants 
 may not be used to advantage. Sometimes it may be to 
 conceal obtrusive objects, again to relieve the monotony 
 of rigid lines. They may also be used to run over the 
 ground and to conceal its nakedness where other plants 
 could not succeed. The shrubby kinds are often useful 
 about the borders of clumps of trees and shrubbery, to 
 slope the foliage down to the grass, and soften or erase 
 lines in the landscape, which is often desirable and 
 necessary for the most pleasing effects. (See pages 
 213, 214.) 
 
 Of herbaceous climbers, the tops die in winter, while 
 those of woody climbers live on from year to year. Only 
 a few of each class will be mentioned. All climbers 
 should have a rich soil if desired to climb high. 
 
 HARDY HERBACEOUS CLIMBERS 
 
 Apios tuberosa. 15-20 ft. July-August. Flowers brownish 
 
 purple; in large clusters, with violet fragrance. Foliage 
 
 similar to that of the wistaria. Roots tuberous. Plant 2 or 
 
 3 together. 
 Centrosema Virginiana (Butterfly Pea). 5-G ft. eJune-Au- 
 
 gust. Purple and white pea-shaped flowers. 
 Clematis coccinea (Scarlet Clematis). 5 ft. June-September. 
 
 Flowers about 1 in. long, scarlet; glaucous foliage, delicate 
 
 and graceful. 
 C Davidiana. 3-4 ft. August-September. Porcelain-blue 
 
 flowers of tubular outline. Dense bushj^ habit. 
 G. tubulosa. 7 ft. August-September. About two weeks 
 
 later than the last; otherwise similar. 
 
292 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Lathyrns latifoliiis (Perennial Pea), 6 ft. June-October. 
 
 Flowers rose-color, on many-flowered stems. 
 L. latifolius var. albus (White P. P.). Flowers pure white, 
 
 otherwise same as the last. Useful for cutting. Both are 
 
 fine for trellises, walls, and for covering. 
 
 HARDY WOODY CLIMBERS (See, also, page 236) 
 
 Acfinidia polygama. 20 ft. or more. June. White flowers, 
 with purple centers; in axillary clusters; fragrant. Leaves 
 entire, heavy, dark and glossy. Berries edible. Foliage 
 immune from insects and diseases. For walls, trellises, 
 screens. Very valuable. 
 
 Akehia quinafa. 20 ft. or more. April. Chocolate colored, 
 sweet-scented flowers, in clusters late in April. Leaves 
 flve-fingered, stems twining. Fine for verandas. 
 
 Ampelopsis bipinnata; properly Cissus stans. 1.5-20 feet or 
 more. June. Compound cut leaves, dark, of a bluish 
 metallic luster. Upright, scarcely twining. Fine for train- 
 ing on fences, or as a bush. 
 
 A. qninqnefoJia. 30-40 ft. June. Leaves digitate, on long 
 leaf-stalks, turning scarlet in the fall. Climbing by tendrils 
 and rootlets. For walls, rocks, etc. 
 
 A. tricuspidata, or Veitchii (Japan and Boston Ivy). 40 ft. 
 or more. Leaves varj'ing from trifoliate to simple, ovate on 
 the same plant; on short stalks. Clinging like the last. 
 The most valued climber for walls. Foliage crimson in the 
 fall. 
 
 Aristolochia SipJio (Dutchman's Pipe). 30 ft. or more. May- 
 June. Flowers shaped like a Dutch pipe. Leaves large, 
 roundish, heart-shaped. Stems twining. Should have rich 
 soil. Arbors and trellises. 
 
 Celastrus scandens (Bitter-Sweet). 25-40 ft. June. Leaves 
 pointed; oblong; green. Stems twining. The racemed 
 capsules orange-yellow, exposing the scarlet-coated seeds, 
 which persist in quantity nearly all winter, making the plant 
 an ornamental object. Arbors, trellises, etc 
 C. artictdatiis (Japanese Bitter-Sweet). Fruit hangs long, 
 but plant less desirable than above. 
 
HARDY CLIMBERS 293 
 
 Clematis. There are two sections of this cultivated in gardens. 
 One is composed of hybrids with large flowers (Fig. 185), 
 the other has small flowers. Of the first section is 
 
 C. Jackmanni. Climbs about 15 ft. high, and has large dark- 
 blue flowers. A continuous bloomer. There are a number of 
 other varieties, double and single, but this is, perhaps, the 
 best of all. 
 
 Of the small-flowered section is 
 
 C. panknlata. Climbs 10-15 ft.; blooming from July-Sep- 
 tember. Flowers small, white, fragrant, star-shaped; borne 
 in masses and in great profusion. Fine for trellises and for 
 covering banks. The best of the small-flowered sorts. 
 
 Lonicera Halliana (Hall's Honeysuckle). 10-20 ft. June- 
 October. Flowers white and buff; fragrant; mainly in 
 spring and fall. Leaves small; evergreen. Stems prostrate 
 and rooting, or twining and climbing. Trellises, etc., or 
 for covering rocks and bare places. (Fig. 179.) 
 
 L. flexuosa var. aurea reticulata (Golden Variegated Honey- 
 suckle). 12-15 ft. January-July. Similar to the last; but 
 with handsome golden appearance. 
 
 L. Pericli/menum var. Belgicum (Belgian Honeysuckle). 6-10 
 ft. Monthly. Flowers in clusters; rosy red, buff within. 
 Makes a large, rounded bush. 
 
 L. senipervirens (Coral Honeysuckle). 6-15 ft. June. Scatter- 
 ing flowers through the summer. With no support makes a 
 large rounded bush. For trellises, fences, or a hedge. 
 
 Lycinm Ckinense (Matrimony Vine). 10-20 ft. or more. Flow- 
 ering all summer. Flowers rose-pink and buff; axillary, 
 star-like; succeeded by scarlet berries in the fall. Stems 
 prostrate, or climbing. Verandas, etc., dry banks and rock- 
 work. 
 
 Periploca grieca (Silk Vine). 30-40 ft. June or July. Pur- 
 plish flowers in axillary clusters. Long, narrow, shining 
 leaves. Rapid growing. For arbors and walls. 
 
 Tecoma radicans (Trumpet Creeper). 30-40 ft. June-August. 
 Flowers large; trumpet-shaped; orange scarlet; in clusters. 
 Leaves pinnate; dark green. Climbing by aereal rootlets. 
 Fine for old stumps, trees and arbors. 
 
 Wistaria Chinensis. 40-50 ft. May-Aiigust. Flowers pale 
 blue, in pendulous racemes. Leaves dark gi*een, pinnate. 
 
 \ 
 
294 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Stems twining. Fine for the piazza, the arbor, or the fence, 
 but should not be allowed to grow on trees, as it will often 
 cause the top to break off. 
 
 8. The Rose 
 
 The essentials of rose culture, after a thoughtful selec- 
 tion of kinds and the purchase of strong plants, are a sunny 
 situation, good drainage, a rich, deep soil, and intelligent 
 care. 
 
 The selection of kinds should be made in reference to 
 the locality and purpose for which the roses are wanted. 
 For bedding roses, those that are of free -blooming habit, 
 even though the individual flowers are not large, are the 
 ones which should be chosen. For permanent beds, the so- 
 called hybrid perpetual or remontant roses, blooming prin- 
 cipally in June, will be found to be hardy at the North. 
 But if one can give them proper protection during the win- 
 ter, then the Bengal, Tea, Bourbon, and Hybrid Teas, or 
 Everblooming roses may be selected. 
 
 In sections where the temperature does not fall below 
 twenty degrees above zero, any of the monthly roses will 
 live without protection. At the South the remontants and' 
 other deciduous roses do not do as well as farther North. 
 The tender climbers — Noisettes, Climbing Teas, Bengals, 
 and others — are excellent for pillars, arbors, and verandas 
 at the South ; but are fit only for the conservatory in those 
 portions of the country w^here there is severe freezing. For 
 the open air at the North we have to depend for climbing 
 roses mainly on the Prairie Climbers; but we now have 
 also the Crimson and Yellow Ramblers (Polj^anthas), with 
 their recent pink and white varieties, all of which are said 
 to be perfectly hardy. The trailing Bosa Wichuraiana is 
 also a useful addition in the shape of an excellent hardy 
 rose for rocky banks, etc. 
 
 While roses delight in a sunny situation, our dry at- 
 mosphere and hot summer suns are sometimes trying on 
 
ROSES 295 \ 
 
 the flowers, as are severe wintry winds on the plants. 
 While, therefore, it is never advisable to plant roses near 
 large trees, or where they will be over -shadowed by 
 buildings or surrounding shrubbery, some shade during 
 the heat of the day will be a benefit. The best position 
 is an eastern or northern slope, and w^here fences or other 
 objects will break the force of strong winds, in those 
 sections where such prevail. 
 
 The best soil for roses is a deep and rich clay loam. 
 If it is more or less of a fibrous character from the 
 presence of grass roots, as is the case with newly plowed 
 sod ground, so much the better. While such is desirable, 
 any ordinary soil will answer, provided it is well-ma- 
 nured. Cow manure is strong and lasting, and has no 
 heating effect. It will cause no damage, even if not 
 rotted. Horse -manure, however, should be well rotted 
 before mixing it with the soil. The manure may be 
 mixed in the soil at the rate of one part in four. If 
 well rotted however, more will not do any damage, as 
 the soil can scarcely be made too rich, especially for the 
 Everblooming roses. 
 
 In planting, care must be taken to avoid exposing the 
 roots of roses to the drying influence of the sun or air. If 
 dormant field-grown plants have been purchased, all broken 
 and brui ed roots will need to be cut off smoothly and 
 squarely. The tops also will need cutting back. The cut 
 should always be made just above a bud, preferably on 
 the outer side of the cane. Strong-growing sorts may 
 be cut back one-fourth or one-half, according as they have 
 good or bad roots. Weaker-growing kinds, like most of 
 the Everblooming roses, should be cut back most severely. 
 In both eases it is well to remove the weak growth first. 
 Plants set out from pots will usually not need cutting 
 back. For pruning a sharp knife is preferable to prun- 
 ing-shears when it can be used, as the latter bruise the 
 bark more or less. 
 
296 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Set open -ground plants about as deep as they stood pre- 
 viously, excepting budded or grafted plants, which should 
 be set so that the union between the stock and graft 
 will be from three to four inches below the surface of 
 the soil. Plants from pots may also be set an inch 
 deeper than they stood in the pots. The soil should be 
 in a friable condition. Roses like to have the soil com- 
 pact immediately about their roots; but we should dis- 
 tinguish between planting roses and setting fence posts. 
 The dryer the soil the more firmly it may be pressed. 
 
 Hardy roses, especially the strong field -grown plants, 
 should be set in the early fall if practicable. It is de- 
 sirable to get them out just as soon as they have shed 
 their foliage. If not then, they may be planted in the 
 early spring. At that season it is advisable to plant them 
 as early as the ground is dry enough, and before the buds 
 have started to grow. Dormant pot-plants may also be 
 set out early, but they should be perfectly dormant. Set- 
 ting them out early in this condition is preferable to 
 waiting till they are in foliage and full bloom, as is so 
 often required by buyers. Growing pot -plants may be 
 planted any time during the spring after danger of frost 
 is past, or even during the summer, if they are watered 
 and shaded for a few days. 
 
 North of the Ohio river all the Everblooming roses, even 
 if they will endure the winter unprotected, will be better 
 for protection. This may be slight southward, but should 
 be thorough northward. The soil, location, and surround- 
 ings, will often be a great help. If the situation is 
 not so favorable, more protection will be necessary. 
 Along the Ohio, a heap of stable manure, or light 
 soil which does not become packed and water-logged, 
 placed about the base of the plants, will carry over many 
 of the Tea roses. The tops are killed back; but the 
 plants sprout up from the base of the old branches in the 
 spring. Bon Silene, Etoile de Lyon, Perle des Jardins, 
 
ROSES 297 
 
 Mme. Camille, and others are readily wintered there in 
 this way. 
 
 About Chicago* beds have been successfully protected 
 by bending down the tops, fastening them, and then 
 placing over and among the plants a layer of dry leaves 
 to the depth of a foot. The leaves must be dry, and the 
 soil also, before applying them. This is very essential. 
 After the leaves, a layer of lawn-clippings, highest at 
 the middle, and 4 or 5 inches thick, placed over the 
 leaves, holds them in place and sheds water. This pro- 
 tection carries over the hardiest sorts of Everblooming 
 roses, including the Teas. The tops are killed back when 
 not bent down, but this protection saves the roots and 
 crowns; when bent down, the tops went through without 
 damage. Even the Climbing rose Gloire de Dijon was 
 carried through the winter of 1894-5 at Chicago without 
 the slightest injury to the branches. 
 
 Strong plants of the Everblooming roses can now be had 
 at very reasonable rates, and rather than go to the- trou- 
 ble of protecting them in the fall, many buy such as they 
 need for bedding purposes each spring. If the soil of the 
 beds is well enriched, the plants make a rapid and lux- 
 uriant growth, blooming freely throughout the summer. 
 
 Pruning is an important matter in rose growing. 
 Climbing and pillar roses need only the weak branches 
 and the tips shortened in ; other hardy kinds will usually 
 need cutting-back about one-fourth or one-third, according 
 to the vigor of the branches, either in the spring or fall. 
 A slight cutting-back also after their June flowering in 
 the case of the Remontants, will encourage more flowers. 
 Severe pruning, however, will only induce the growth of 
 vigorous leafy shoots without flowers. The Everblooming 
 roses will need to have all dead wood removed at the 
 time of uncovering them in spring. Some pruning 
 
 * American Florist x., No. 358, p. 929 (1895). See pages 58 to 67. 
 
29(S PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 during the summer is also useful in encouraging growth 
 and flowers. The stronger branches which have flowered 
 may be cut back one -half or more. The rule in trim- 
 ming roses is, cut hack iveaJc-groivmg kinds severely ; 
 strong growers moderately . 
 
 Roses should be carefully taken up every four or five 
 years, tops and roots cut in, and then reset, either in 
 a new place or in the old, after enriching the soil with 
 a fresh supply of manure, and deeply spading it over. In 
 Holland roses are allowed to stand about eight years. 
 They are then taken out and their places filled with 
 young plants. 
 
 ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES. 
 
 The following classified lists embrace some of the va- 
 rieties of recognized merit for various purposes. There 
 are many others, but it is desirable to limit the list to a 
 few good kinds. The intending planter should consult 
 recent catalogues. 
 
 Free-hlooming Monthly Roses for hedduig, — These are rec- 
 ommended not for the individual beauty of the flower — 
 although some are very fine — but because of their suitabil- 
 ity for the purpose indicated. If to be carried over winter 
 in the open ground, they need to be protected north of 
 Washington. In beds, pegging down the branches will be 
 found desirable. Those starred have been found hardy in 
 Southern Indiana without protection, although they are 
 more satisfactory with it. The name of the class to which 
 the variety belongs is indicated by the initial letter or 
 letters of the class name. (C, China; T., Tea; H. T., 
 Hybrid Tea; B., Bourbon; Pol., Polyantha; N., Noisette; 
 H. P., Hybrid Perpetual; Pr., Prairie Climber): 
 Heel— Pink — 
 
 Sanguinea, 0. *Hermosa, B. 
 
 Agrippina, C. Souvenir d'un Ami, T. 
 
 Marion Dingee, T. Pink Soupert, Pol. 
 
 *Meteor, H. T. *Gen. Tartas, T. 
 
ROSES 
 
 299 
 
 204. Climbing Jules Margottiu. 
 
 Blush- White - 
 
 *Cels, C. *Clotilde Soupert, Pol. 
 
 Mme. Joseph Schwartz, T. *Sombreuil, B. 
 
 * Souvenir de la Malmaison, B. Snowflake, T. 
 
 Mignonette, Pol. Pacquerette, Pol. 
 
 Yellow— Yellow— {touXmwQA. 
 
 * Isabella Spi'unt, T. La Pactole, T. 
 
 Mosella (Yellow Soupert), Pol. Marie van Houtte, T. 
 
300 PLANTING THE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS 
 
 Free-dlooming Monthly Bases for summer cutting and 
 beds. — These are somewhat less desirable for purely bed- 
 ding-purposes than the preceding; but they afford finer 
 flowers and are useful for their fine buds. Those starred 
 are hardy in Southern Indiana without protection: 
 
 Red— Light Pink — 
 
 * Meteor. *La France, H. T. 
 *Dinsmore, H. P. Countess de Labarthe, T. 
 
 * Pierre Guillot, H. T. *Appoline, B. 
 Papa Gontier, T. 
 
 White— Dark Pink — 
 
 The Bride, T. * American Beaiity, H. T. 
 
 Senator McNaughton, T. * Duchess of Albany, H. T. 
 
 * Marie Guillot, T. Mme. C. Testout, H. T. 
 *Mme. Bavay, T. Adam, T. 
 
 Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, H. T. * Marie Ducher, T. 
 
 Yelloiv — PeiZoiu— continued. 
 
 Perle des Jardins, T. Sunset, T. 
 
 Mme. Welch, T. Marie Van Houtte, T. 
 
 Hybrid Perpetual, or Remontant Roses. — These do not 
 flower as freely as the groups previously mentioned ; but 
 the individual flowers are very large and unequaled by 
 any other roses. They "flower chiefly in June. Those 
 named are among the finest sorts, and some of them flower 
 continuously : 
 
 Red— Pink — 
 
 Alfred Colomb. Mrs. John Laing. 
 
 Earl of Dufferin. Paul Neyron. 
 
 Glorie de Margottin. Queen of Queens. 
 
 Anna de Diesbach. Magna Charta. 
 
 Ulrich Brunner. Baroness Rothschild. 
 
 White - 
 
 Margaret Dickson. Merveille de Lyon. 
 
 Hardy Climbing, or Pillar Roses. — These bloom but once 
 during the season. They, however, come after the June 
 
ROSES 301 
 
 roses — a good season — and at that time are literally masses 
 of flowers. They require only slight pruning. 
 
 Wliite— Pink — 
 
 Baltimore Belle, Pr. Queen of the Prairies, Pr. 
 
 Washington, N. Tennessee Belle, Pr. 
 
 Rosa Wichuraiana (trailing). Climbing Jules Margotten 
 
 (Fig. 204), H. P. 
 Crimson— Yellow — 
 
 Crimson Rambler, Pol. Yellow Rambler, Pol. 
 
 Tender CUmhing, or Pillar Roses. — For conservatories, and 
 the South as far north as Tennessee. — Those with an asterisk 
 are half-hardy north of the Ohio river, or about as hardy 
 as the Hybrid Teas. These need no pruning except a 
 slight shortening -in of the shoots and a thinning out of 
 the weak growth. 
 
 Yellow— White— 
 
 Marechal Niel, N. *Aimee Vibert, N. 
 
 Solfaterre, N. Bennett's Seedling (Ayrshire). 
 
 *Gloire de Dijon, T. White Banksia Banksiana). 
 
 Yellow Banksia (Banksiana). 
 
 Bed- 
 
 *Reine Marie Henriette, T. James Sprunt, C. 
 
Section IV 
 
 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 There are few home plots so small that fruits 
 cannot be grown. If there is no opportunity for 
 planting the orchard fruits by themselves at regu- 
 lar intervals, there are still boundaries to the place, 
 and along these boundaries and scattered in the 
 border masses, apples, pears and other fruits may 
 be planted. It is not to be expected that fruits 
 will thrive as well in these i)laces as in well tilled 
 orchards, but something can be done, and the 
 results are often very satisfactory. Along a back 
 fence or walk, one may plant a row or two of cur- 
 rants, gooseberries or blackberries, or he may make 
 a trellis of grapes. If there are no trees near the 
 front or back of the border, the fruit plants may 
 be placed close together in the row and the 
 greatest development of the tops may be allowed 
 to take place laterally. If one has a back yard 
 fifty feet on a side, there will be opportunity, in 
 three borders, for six to eight fruit trees, and 
 bush fruits between, without encroaching greatly 
 upon the lawn. In such cases, the trees are 
 planted just inside the boundary line. 
 
 A suggestion for the arrangement of a fruit 
 
 (302) 
 
SMALL FRUIT -GARDENS 
 
 303 
 
 « 
 
 1 
 rd. 
 
 2 rds. 
 
 2 rds. 
 
 10 KODS. 
 
 2 rds. 
 
 ;=: o 
 
 1 
 rd. 
 
 O 
 
 10 
 
 ft. 
 
 0) 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 2 
 
 0) 
 
 (M 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ,« 
 
 
 t) 
 
 
 frt 
 
 
 
 
 X> 
 
 •E 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 a) 
 
 U} 
 
 a> 
 
 o 
 
 u 
 
 ^n 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 a< 
 
 
 P. 
 
 a 
 
 rt. •"! *— ' 
 
 PS W K 
 
 10 
 ft. 
 
 204. Plan for a fruit-garden of one acre. From "Principles of 
 Fruit-growing." 
 
 garden of one acre is given in Fig. 204. Such a 
 plan allows of continuous cultivation in one di- 
 rection and facilitates spraying, pruning and har- 
 vesting ; and the intermediate spaces may be used 
 
304 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 for the growing- of annual crops, at least for a 
 few years. 
 
 For ver}' small areas, and for the growing of 
 the finest dessert fruits, dwarf trees may be grown 
 of apples and pears. The apple is dwarfed when 
 it is worked upon certain small and slow -growing 
 types of apple trees, as the paradise and doucin 
 stocks. The doucin is usually the better, since it 
 makes a larger and stronger tree than the other. 
 The pear is dwarfed when it is grown upon the 
 root of quince. Dwarf apples and pears may be 
 planted as close as ten feet apart each way, al- 
 though more room should be given them if pos- 
 sible. The trees should be kept dwarf by vigor- 
 ous annual heading -in. If the tree is making 
 good growth, say one to three feet, a half to two- 
 thirds of the growth may be taken off in winter. 
 A dwarf apple or pear tree should be kept within 
 a height of twelve or fifteen feet, and it should 
 not attain this stature in less than, ten or twelve 
 years. A dwarf apple tree, in full bearing, should 
 average from two pecks to a bushel of first quality 
 apples, and a dwarf pear should do somewhat 
 more than this. 
 
 Buj' first-class trees of reliable dealers. It 
 rarely pays to try to save a few cents on a tree, 
 for quality is likely to be sacrificed. At the 
 present time nursery stock is so cheap that one 
 need not quibble about prices. 
 
 Some of the cardinal points to be observed in 
 
SPECIFIC ADVICE ON FRUIT-GROWING 305 
 
 the growing of fruit are detailed in the following 
 pages by Professor Taft. Persons who desire to 
 pursue the subject further should consult "Prin- 
 ciples of Fruit -Growing." 
 
 ADVICE UPON THE GROWING OF FRUIT 
 
 (L. R. Taft) 
 1. Northern Orchard Fruits 
 
 There are few sections of the country where fruits of 
 some kind cannot be grown with a fair degree of success. 
 The grower should take special pains to select a location 
 adapted to the kind of fruit he expects to grow, and 
 should choose varieties that are known to be valuable in 
 that section and for the specific purposes desired. With 
 proper care in tliese respects and an intelligent handling 
 of the trees, satisfactory returns may be received, while 
 if any of the details are neglected, failure may result. 
 
 Age and size of trees.— For ordinary planting, it is 
 desirable to select trees two years from bud or graft, ex- 
 cept in case of the peach, which should be one year old. 
 Many growers find strong one -year trees preferable. A 
 good size is about five -eighths of an inch in diameter just 
 above the collar, and five feet in height, and if they have 
 been well grown, trees of this size will give as good or 
 better results than those seven -eighths of an inch, or 
 more, in diameter, and six or seven feet high. 
 
 If properly packed, trees can be shipped long distances 
 and may do as well as those grown in a home nursery, 
 but it will generally be best to secure the trees as near 
 home as possible, provided the quality of the trees and 
 fhe price are satisfactory. When a large number are to 
 be obtained, it will be better to send the order direct to 
 some reliable nursery, or to go and select the trees in 
 person, than to rely upon tree peddlers. 
 T 
 
306 
 
 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 Pruning. — Having planted the trees, they should be 
 carefully pruned. As a rule, trees with low heads are 
 desirable, and dwarf pears and peaches should have the 
 lower branches from twelve to twenty -four inches above 
 ground, and sweet cherries and standard pears can gener- 
 ally be headed not over thirty inches from the ground ; 
 plums, sour cherries and apple can be somewhat higher, 
 
 205. Lean-to fruit cellar, covered with earth. It should be built of 
 mason work, with a roof of stone slabs, or of planks covered 
 with an inch or two of cement. It should be provided with a 
 ventilator at the top. Store the fruit on shelves or in barrels. 
 
 but if properly handled, when trimmed three feet from 
 the ground, will not be in the way of the cultivation of 
 the orchard. For all except the peach in the northern 
 states, a pyramidal form will be desirable. To secure 
 this, four or five side branches with three or four buds 
 each, should be allowed to grow and the center shoot 
 should be cut off at a height of from ten to twelve 
 inches. After growth has started, the trees should be 
 occasionally examined and all surplus shoots removed, 
 
STORING OF FRUITS 
 
 307 
 
 206. An outside cellar, fitted to 
 keep fruit or vegetables. 
 
 thus throwins^ the full vigor of the plant into those re- 
 maining. As a rule three or four shoots upon each 
 branch can be left to advantage. The following spring 
 the shoots should be cut back about one-half and about 
 half of the branches removed. Care should be taken to 
 avoid crotches, and if any of the branches cross others, so 
 that they are likely to rub, they should be cut out. This 
 cutting back and trimming 
 out should be kept up for 
 two or three years, and in 
 the case of dwarf pear trees, 
 regular pruning each year 
 should be continued. Al- 
 though an occasional head- 
 ing back will be of advan- 
 tage to the trees, apple, 
 plum and cherry trees that 
 have been properly pruned while young will not require 
 so much attention after they come into bearing. 
 
 Gathering and keeping fruit. — Nearly all fruits 
 should be gathered as soon as they will readily part 
 from the stems on which tliey are borne. With many 
 perishable fruits the proper time for gathering will be 
 determined largely by the distance they are to be shipped. 
 With the exception of winter varieties of apples and 
 pears and a few kinds of grapes, it will be best to dispose 
 of fruit soon after it is gatliered, unless it is kept for 
 family use. If for winter use, the fruit should at once 
 be placed in the cellar or fruit house in which it is to be 
 stored, and there kept as near the freezing point as 
 possible. There will be less danger of the shriveling 
 of the fruit if placed at once in closed barrels or other 
 tight packages, but if proper ventilation is given the fruit 
 may be kept in bins with little loss. Even though no 
 ice is used, it will be possible to maintain a fairly low 
 temperature by opening the windows at night when the 
 
308 
 
 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 outside atmosphere is colder than that inside the build- 
 ing, and closing them during the day as the outer air 
 becomes warmer. Fruit should be handled with great 
 
 SAW/DUST 
 
 207. Diagram illustrating tlie constriictiou and principles of operation 
 of an ice-cooled store-house. 
 
 care at all times, for if the cells become broken by rough 
 handling the keeping qualities will be greatly injured. 
 The illustrations (Figs. 205-207) show three types of fruit 
 storage houses. 
 
 THE APPLE 
 
 Apples "thrive l)est on a strong, sandy loam soil, or a 
 light clay loam. ,While a soil very rich in organic matter 
 is not desirable, good results cannot be obtained unless it 
 contains a fair amount of vegetable matter. A clover sod 
 
REMARKS ON APPLES 
 
 309 
 
 is particularly desirable for this as well as for other 
 fruits. 
 
 For a commercial orchard, most varieties should be 
 from thirty -five to forty feet apart ; but in the garden the 
 
 ■||' -""::"i'M!:.iiiiiiiiii'-ii 
 
 .i;iir>iiir."li:ii'"'ii"''""" 
 
 208. Jonathan. 
 
 209. Wagener, 
 
 slow-growing and long-lived sorts may be at forty feet, 
 and, half way between in both directions, some of the 
 short-lived, early bearing varieties may be placed, to be 
 removed after they begin to crowd. The same method 
 
310 
 
 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 may be used for large orchards, but from the fact that 
 most people delay the removal of the extra trees until 
 after they have become injured from overcrowding, it is 
 not generally advisable. 
 
 Vaeieties of apples.''^ — For the northern and eastern 
 states, the following varieties will generally be found 
 valuable : 
 
 Early.— Yellow Transparent, Early Harvest, Primate, 
 Early Joe, Red Astrachan, Golden Sweet, Oldenburg,* 
 
 '210. Pewaiikee. 
 
 Summer Pearmain, Chenango, Bough (Sweet), Graven- 
 stein*, Jefferis, Porter. 
 
 Autumn. — Maiden Blush, Bailey (sweet), Fameuse,* Fall 
 Pippin, Wealthy* and Mother. 
 
 fTm^e/-.— Jonathan* (Fig. 208), Hubbardston,* Grimes' 
 Golden,* Tompkins' King,* Wagener* (Fig. 209), Baldwin,* 
 Yellow Bellflower, Talman, Northern Spy,* Red Canada,* 
 and Roxbury Russet. 
 
 *The varieties marked with an astei-isk (*) are particularly valuable 
 for market purposes as well as for home use; the others are chiefly 
 desirable for home use. 
 
APPLES 311 
 
 For the South and Southwest the varieties named in the 
 following list are of value : 
 
 Early. — Red June, Yellow Transparent, Red Astraehan, 
 Summer Queen, Benoni, Oldenburg, Gravenstein. 
 
 Autumn. — Haas, Late Strawberry, Maiden Blush, Oconee, 
 Rambo, Peck's Pleasant, Rome Beauty," Carter's Blue. 
 
 Winter. — Paragon,* Shockley, Smith's Cider, Hubbard- 
 ston, Hoover, Horse, Grimes' Golden, Buckingham, Jona- 
 than* (Fig. 208), Winesap, Kinnaird, Ben Davis,* York 
 Imperial, Romanite, Rail's Genet, Limber Twig. 
 
 In the Northwest only such varieties as are extremely 
 hardy will be satisfactory, and among those likely to suc- 
 ceed we may mention: 
 
 Early. — Yellow Transparent, Tetofski. 
 
 Autumn. — Oldenburg,* Fameuse, Longfield, Wealthy, 
 McMahan.* 
 
 Winter — Wolf River,* Hibernal, Northwestern Greening, 
 Pewaukee (Fig. 210), Switzer, Golden Russet. 
 
 Insects and diseases of the apple. — Among the in- 
 sects most commonly found upon the apple-tree are the 
 codlin-moth, canker-worm and tent-caterpillar. The 
 codlin-moth lays its egg upon the fruit soon after the 
 blossoms fall, and the larvre, on hatching, eat their way 
 inside. A thorough spraying of the trees with arsenites 
 (page 98) within a week after the blossoms fall will do 
 much toward destroying them ; but a second application 
 in about three weeks, will be desirable. The canker-worm 
 (Fig. 92) and tent-caterpillars feed upon the leaves, and 
 can also be destroyed by means of arsenites. To be 
 effectual against the former, however, the applications 
 must be made soon after they hatch, and in a very thor- 
 ough manner. 
 
 Borers frequently do much injury to the trunks of trees, 
 but if the trees are kept well cultivated and in a thrifty grow- 
 ing condition, the injury will be greatly reduced. It will be 
 well, however, to wash the trunks of the trees and larger 
 
312 
 
 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 branches with soft soap, thinned with water so that it can 
 be applied with a brush or broom, during the spring. The 
 addition of an ounce of Paris green in each five gallons of 
 the wash will be of value. 
 
 The most troublesome disease of the apple is the apple - 
 scab, which disfigures the fruit as well as lessens its size. 
 
 1!11. Blighted and broken foliage and injiired fruit, the work of 
 apple-scab. 
 
 It also often does much harm to the foliage, and thus checks 
 the growth of the trees (Fig. 211). The Baldwin, Fameuse, 
 Northern Spy and Red Canada are particularly subject to 
 this disease, and it is much more troublesome in moist 
 seasons than when the weather is dry. The use of fungi- 
 cides will do much to lessen the injury from this disease. 
 To be effectual, however, they must be applied in a thorough 
 manner, and as a preventive rather than a cure. The 
 trees should be sprayed with a solution of copper sul- 
 phate at the rate of one pound to fifteen gallons of water, 
 before the buds open in the spring, and as soon as the 
 blossoms have fallen, Bordeaux mixture (page 99) should 
 be applied. In regions where the disease is troublesome 
 
APPLE — PEAR 313 
 
 and with varieties subject to its attack, the thorough 
 spraying of the trees, after the blossoms have formed and 
 just before they open, will often result in the saving of 
 the crop. The frequency of the later applications will 
 depend upon the prevalence of the disease ; but if there 
 is likely to be trouble, the use of Bordeaux mixture upon 
 winter varieties every three weeks up to the middle of 
 July or first of August will be found profitable. The 
 earlier applications can be made in connection with the 
 arsenites, and will aid in preventing injury to the foliage 
 by free arsenic. 
 
 THE PEAR 
 
 Pears require a rather stiff soil, and do best in a moder- 
 ately heavy clay loam. While it should be retentive of 
 moisture, it must be well drained. Dwarf pear-trees 
 should have a rich, deep, loamy soil, and do best if it is 
 of an alluvial nature. Standard pears should be placed 
 from twenty to twenty -five feet each wry, and dwarfs 
 from twelve to fifteen. Dwarf trees are often more desir- 
 able than standard, as they are generally earlier bearers 
 and require but one -half as much room as standard trees. 
 To be grown successfully, however, they should be se- 
 verely cut back each year, and all surplus shoots re- 
 moved. As they have a comparatively small root system, 
 they should be well supplied with plant-food, and be even 
 more thoroughly cultivated than standard trees. While 
 there is danger from using an excess of manure, the land 
 should be kept well enriched with decomposed stable ma- 
 nure, wood ashes and ground bone. 
 
 Varieties of the pear. — As a selection to supply a 
 succession of varieties throughout the season, the follow- 
 ing list is recommended: 
 
 Early. — Summer Doyenne, Bloodgood, Clapp. 
 
 Autumn. — Bartlett, Boussoek, Flemish Beauty, Buffum, 
 
314 
 
 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 Howell, Seekel (Fig. 212), Louise Bonne, Duchess 
 (d'Angouleme) (Fig. 213). 
 
 Winter. — Anjou, Sheldon, Clairgeau, Lawrence, Kieffer 
 (Figs. 214, 215), Winter Nelis, and Easter Beurre. 
 
 For ordinary market purposes, the following have been 
 proved valuable : Bartlett, Howell, Anjou, Clairgeau, and 
 
 212. Seekel. 
 
 Lawrence. In the central and southern states, Kieffer 
 is grown successfully, and in the extreme South LeConte 
 is largely grown. For home use, the Kieffer is not to be 
 recommended in the North, because of its poor quality and 
 smaller size. 
 
 For growing as dwarfs, Duchess (d'Angouleme), Louise 
 
218. Duchess d'Angouleme. 
 
 214. Kioflfer pear. 
 
316 
 
 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 Bonne, Anjou, Clairgeau and Lawrence are most popular, 
 but many other varieties thrive on the quince. 
 
 Insects and diseases of the pear. — In addition to the 
 attack of the cherry-tree slug, eodlin-moth, and various 
 insects common to other fruits, the foliage of the pear is 
 attacked by a leaf -mite (Phytoptus) and the pear tree 
 psylla, although neither are commonly troublesome over a 
 wide range of country. The latter yields readily to a 
 thorough application of kerosene emulsion, applied just 
 before the leaves open in the spring. 
 
 The most common and destructive disease of the pear 
 is fire -blight. This is of a bacterial nature, and may 
 appear upon the trunk, branches, or 
 foliage, and if allowed to spread, 
 will generally kill the trees. A form 
 known as twig-blight attacks the 
 branches, but seldom spreads to the 
 trunk. It is least troublesome upon 
 slow-growing varieties, and where 
 there is not an excess of organic 
 matter in the soil. If an excessive 
 growth can be avoided, the danger 
 will be reduced. The blight mani- 
 fests itself upon the growing shoots 
 by the discoloring of the bark and 
 underlying wood, and by the brown- 
 ish-black color of the foliage. There 
 is no known remedy, but as soon as 
 the disease shows itself the affected portions should be 
 removed, taking care to cut several inches below where 
 any signs of the disease appears. 
 
 The foliage of the pear is also attacked by a fungous 
 disease known as leaf-blight, which causes the leaves 
 to drop prematurely; the same disease also affects the 
 fruit, causing it to crack and become misshapen. The 
 use of Bordeaux mixture, as recommended for apple- 
 
 215. Kieffer. 
 
PEAR— PLUM 317 
 
 scab, will be found to be a sure remedy for this trouble. 
 This disease is distinguished from the true pear-blight 
 or fire-blight by definite spots or blotches on the leaves and 
 the tendency of the leaves to drop prematurely. 
 
 THE PLUM 
 
 While clay is not as necessary for plum as for pear 
 trees, they succeed well on moderately heavy clay soils, 
 but seem equally adapted to strong, sandy loams. Trees 
 grown on myrobalan stocks are best for heavy soils, but 
 if it becomes necessary to place them on a light soil, 
 those grown on peach roots will give best results. 
 
 The distance at which plums should be placed varies 
 from sixteen to twenty feet each way, according to the 
 size of the trees and the nature of the soil ; the strong- 
 growing sorts upon heavy soils require the greater, while 
 weak varieties on lighter soils will succeed at the lesser 
 distance. 
 
 Varieties of the plum. — The following varieties 
 of European origin will be found desirable for growing 
 in the northern and eastern states: Bradshaw, Imperial 
 Gage, Lombard, McLaughlin, Pond, Jefferson, Fellenberg, 
 Shropshire, Coe Golden Drop, Bavay or Reine Claude, 
 Grand Duke, Monarch, and Black Diamond. 
 
 Several of the Japanese varieties are also well adapted 
 to growing in these sections, as well as in the states 
 farther south. The trees are generally hardy, but they 
 bloom early, and are apt to be injured by late frosts in 
 some localities. Among the better kinds are the Red 
 June, Abundance, Chabot, Burbank, and Satsuma. 
 
 Few of the above sorts are hardy in the Northwest, and 
 growers there have to rely upon varieties of Prunus 
 Americana origin. Among these are: Forest Garden, 
 De Soto, Rollingstone, Weaver, Quaker, and Hawkeye. 
 Farther south still other classes of plums have been 
 
318 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 introduced, among them being Wild Goose, Clinton, 
 Moreman, Miner, and Golden Beauty. And still farther 
 south, Transparent, Paris Belle, Newman, Lone Star, and 
 El Paso are grown. 
 
 Insects and diseases of the plum.— Plum trees are 
 attacked by a number of dangerous diseases and insects, 
 and to be grown successfully, these require careful atten- 
 tion. The most troublesome disease is the " black-knot", 
 which causes swellings upon the trunks and branches. 
 If allowed to spread it will quickly be fatal to the 
 orchard. All diseased branches should at once be re- 
 moved, cutting a foot or so below the knot. The spread 
 of the disease can, to a large extent, be prevented by 
 spraying the trees occasionally during the season with 
 Bordeaux mixture, but to be effectual, the spraying and 
 cutting out of the knots must be done promptly upon the 
 first appearance of the disease. 
 
 Plum trees are also much injured by the " shot -hole 
 fungus", which causes the leaves to drop, but it also can 
 be prevented by the use of fungicides. 
 
 Brown -rot of the fruit is also very troublesome in 
 warm, moist seasons ; although less effective than with 
 other diseases, the fungicides will largely prevent its 
 spread. 
 
 The fruit is also frequently destroyed by the plum cur- 
 culio, an insect which deposits its egg beneath the skin of 
 the fruit. The larva, on hatching, eats its way in to the 
 pit, causing the fruit to drop from the tree. Thorough 
 and persistent spraying with arsenites will sometimes save 
 the crop, but many growers prefer to jar the trees early 
 in the morning, and catch the curculios upon sheets spread 
 for the purpose. 
 
 Plum trees, as well as most of our other fruits, are also 
 subject to the attack of the San Jose scale and other scale 
 insects. If very numerous, they will greatly injure and 
 even destroy the trees. The San Jose scale, in particul-ar, 
 
SAN JOSE SCALE — PEACH 819 
 
 is very injurious, and if found in large numbers upon a 
 tree, it should at once be destroyed ; but if only a few 
 are present, they may be killed by thoroughly spraying 
 the trees in winter with a solution of whale-oil soap made 
 at the rate of one and one -half pounds to a gallon of 
 water. Even in summer, thorough spraying with kerosene 
 and water will destroy the pest. 
 
 THE PEACH 
 
 Although peaeh trees are hardy, except in the more 
 northern states, there are only comparatively a few sec- 
 tions in which they can be grown successfully, as the 
 flower buds are destroyed if the mercury reaches twenty 
 degrees below zero, and frequently at zero or above, if the 
 buds have swollen during warm periods in the winter and 
 early spring. Peaches are generally grown upon sandy 
 loam soils, but do well upon light clays if they are 
 naturally well drained. Particular attention should be 
 paid to having them in some elevated spot in order that 
 they may have perfect air drainage, unless they are in 
 sections where the natural surroundings prevent extremes 
 of temperature. 
 
 Although most growers find it advisable to plant the 
 trees from eighteen to twenty feet each way, some prefer 
 to grow them as close as from twelve to fifteen feet, and 
 do this by severely heading-back the trees. Trees one 
 year from bud should be used, and should be cut back to 
 a whip, unless there are side shoots where the head is to 
 be formed, in which case thi'ee or four of them should be 
 cut back to two buds each, and all others, as well as the 
 center shoot, removed. In most sections it will be pref- 
 erable to have the lower branches not more than eighteen 
 to twenty-four inches from the ground, and in the south- 
 ern states, twelve inches will be sufficient. Until the 
 trees come into bearing, the shoots should be cut back 
 
216. Bunch of yellows shoots. 
 
PEACH 
 
 321 
 
 from one -half to two -thirds each year, and many of the 
 weaker ones removed. At the North it is best to grow 
 them in an open, vase -shaped form, that the sun may 
 enter and ripen the fruit, while at the South the pyra- 
 midal form should be chosen. After the trees come into 
 bearing they will need less pruning, but a little heading - 
 back and thinning out will be desirable each year. In 
 ease the crop is lost, it will be well to occasionally cut 
 back branches to the main arms, and thus form a new head. 
 
 Varieties OF the peach. — For home 
 use it is advisable to provide varieties 
 that will ripen in succession, but for 
 market purposes, in most sections, 
 the medium and late kinds should 
 be most extensively planted. Al- 
 though there are many varieties that 
 have a local reputation, but are not 
 commonly found in the nurseries, 
 the following kinds are well known, 
 and can be generally grown with 
 success: Alexander, Hale's Early, 
 Early Rivers, St. John, Crawford 
 Early and Late, Oldmixon, Stump 
 the World, Elberta, Crosby, Gold 
 Drop, Smock, and Salway. Among 
 the new kinds less commonly known 
 are: Triumph, Lewis, Champion, 
 Sneed, Greensboro, and Kalamazoo. 
 
 Insects and diseases of the 
 PEACH. — In some sections the peach 
 industry has been entirely destroyed 
 by "yellows." While its exact nature 
 is not known, it is evidently conta- 
 gious, and infected trees should be 
 removed at its first appearance. It 
 shows in red spots upon the surface, 
 
 U 
 
 217. Leaf -curl. 
 
322 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 and streaks running from the pit to the outside of the 
 fruit, and in the development of short, weak shoots late 
 in the fall from buds that should remain dormant until 
 spring. The leaves are small and light yellowish green 
 in color. The following year tufts of wiry branches are 
 developed in the crotches of the trees and often from the 
 large branches (Fig. 216 1, and the tree generally dies dur- 
 ing the second or third year. 
 
 Curl-leaf (Fig. 217) is also troublesome in cold, wet 
 springs, causing a thickening and folding of the leaves, 
 and often resulting in the defoliation of the trees. It is 
 a fungous disease, but is seldom troublesome when the 
 weather in May and June is warm and dry. If the attack 
 is severe, most, if not all of the fruit, will drop from the 
 trees. Generally, the tree recuperates, and the disease 
 is seldom serious in two succeeding years. Its attack can 
 be prevented if the trees are thoroughly sprayed with 
 Bordeaux mixture before growth starts, again after the 
 blossoms have fallen, and a third time in about ten days. 
 The material should be made of full strength, and double 
 the amount of lime commonly used would be desirable, 
 and to be effectual it should be thoroughly applied to all- 
 parts of the trees before the disease has attacked the 
 leaves. Peach trees are often injured by spraying. 
 
 The peach is also subject to the attack of brown -rot, eur- 
 culio (page 318), and shot-hole fungus. The borer of the 
 peach is often very destructive, and the trees should be ex- 
 amin.ed in June, and again in October, for its presence. 
 Scrubbing the trunks of the trees about the middle of 
 June in the northern states, and one or two months earlier 
 in the South, with the wash recommended for the apple 
 tree borer, may lessen the danger of their attack. 
 
 The black peach aphis is very numerous in some sec- 
 tions, and will quickly destroy young trees. They suck 
 the sap from the roots of the trees, but appear above 
 ground during the summer. They can be destroyed on 
 
PEACH— APRICOT— CHERRY 323 
 
 the foliage by spraying with strong tobacco water, while 
 below ground the best remedy will be to scrape away the 
 surface soil and spread about the tree from a half bushel 
 to a bushel of unleached wood ashes, or tobacco stems. 
 
 The roots of peach trees are often covered with swell- 
 ings known as crown or root -galls. Such trees should 
 never be planted, for although they may grow, they will 
 never be of value. Similar galls also appear on the 
 plum, pear, apple, raspberry, and other fruits. 
 
 APRICOTS AND NECTARINES 
 
 These fruits are not commonly grown, as ordinarily the 
 trees are short-lived and lacking in productiveness. They 
 require the same care as the peach, are as hardy, are 
 attacked by the same insects, and they are as easy to 
 grow. A nectarine is only a peach with a smooth skin. 
 Apricots thrive on a rather strong soil. Early Golden, 
 Moorpark, Royal, Roman, Montgamet and Harris are among 
 the best varieties of apricots, and Boston and Pitmaston 
 Orange are the leading sorts of nectarines. 
 
 THE CHERRY 
 
 While cherries succeed upon a variety of soils, they do 
 best and live longest upon a moderately light soil, pro- 
 vided it contains an abundance of plant-food. The pres- 
 ence of stagnant water in the soil will be fatal to them. 
 For the ordinary planter, the sour kinds will do best and 
 prove most productive, as, although ordinarily hardy, sweet 
 cherry trees are likely to make a late growth in the au- 
 tumn, and the action of frost upon the trunks will result 
 in the cracking of the bark, and the life of the tree will 
 thus be shortened. Trees grown on Mahaleb stocks will 
 generally be found most hardy, particularly on heavy 
 soils. The sour varieties may be placed at from eighteen 
 
324 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 to twenty feet each way, but in sections where the sweet 
 cherries reach their full development, twenty-five or thirty 
 feet will be none too much for them. 
 
 After the head has once been formed, sour cherries will 
 require little pruning; but for a number of years it will 
 be well to head back the upright -growing sweet cherries. 
 The injury from the winter spoken of above, as injuring 
 the sweet kinds, can be greatly reduced if the trunks are 
 shortened so that the branches will come out not more 
 than one and one-half feet above the ground. 
 
 Varieties of the cherry. — Of the sour varieties, May 
 Duke, Early Richmond, Montmorency, Reine Hortense, 
 Late Kentish and English Morello are the most valuable. 
 The following sweet varieties are of value where they suc- 
 ceed: Rockport, Yellow Spanish, Elton, Gov. Wood, Coe 
 Transparent, Windsor, Black Tartarian, and Downer. 
 
 Insects and diseases of the cherry. — Cherry trees are 
 often nearly defoliated by a small, slimy larva known as 
 the cherry-tree slug. It eats off the green portions of 
 the leaf, giving them an appearance as if burned with 
 fire. They can be readily destroyed by throwing dry road 
 dust, wood ashes, or air-slaked lime over the trees, but if 
 the trees are large and numerous, it will be easier to 
 spray them with Paris green. The so-called cherry worms 
 are the larva of the curculio, which also attacks the plum 
 and the peach. (See Plum.) 
 
 Although the foliage of young trees is frequently 
 attacked with powdery mildew, it seldom does much harm, 
 and the only disease to be much feared is brown -rot, 
 mentioned as attacking the plum and peach. If the 
 weather is warm and moist at the time the trees are in 
 blossom, or just as the fruit is ripening, the injury 
 inflicted will be quite severe, and the fruit must be 
 quickly picked. The disease is most serious on white va- 
 rieties of the sweet cherry type. (Consult bulletins of 
 Cornell and Delaware Experiment Stations.) 
 
QUINCE — ORANGE 325 
 
 THE QUINCE 
 
 Although not largely grown, quinces generally find a 
 ready sale, and are desirable for home use. The trees 
 are usually planted about twelve feet each way, and may 
 be trained either in a shrub or tree form, but it will 
 generally be best to grow them with a short trunk. They 
 succeed best on a deep, moist and rich alluvial soil, and 
 require the same care as the pear. The insects and dis- 
 eases by which they are attacked are also the same as 
 upon that fruit. The Orange is the most common va- 
 iety, but Champion, Meech and Rea are sometimes grown. 
 
 2. Sub-Tropical Fruits 
 
 Many sections in California, Florida and Louisiana are 
 adapted to the growing of such fruits as oranges, lemons, 
 figs and other tender fruits that can only be grown under 
 glass in the northern states. In a general way they are 
 planted and cultivated in about the same manner as other 
 fruits. 
 
 THE ORANGE 
 
 Oranges are grown extensively in many parts of Cali- 
 fornia, but in the most favored sections there is occa- 
 sionally some injury from frost to the trees or fruit, while 
 the recent destructive freeze in Florida caused great 
 damage. The soil preferred for oranges in California is a 
 rich, deep alluvium, avoiding hard-pan or adobe subsoils. 
 Stagnant water in the subsoil is a fatal defect. Although 
 they can be grown near the ocean at a lower level, an 
 elevation of six hundred to twelve hundred feet is gen- 
 erally desirable. While Southern California is particularly 
 adapted to orange culture, the fruit is successfully raised 
 along the foot-hills of the San Joaquin and Sacramento 
 
326 
 
 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 valleys and in other parts of the state. In Florida, pine 
 lands with a clay subsoil are generally preferred for 
 oranges, but if properly handled good results can be 
 obtained from hammock land. As elevated spots cannot 
 be secured, a timber belt surrounding the orchard or 
 along the north and west sides is desirable. 
 
 ?€^^; 
 
 
 
 218. Oonsliiu orange, one of the Tangerine type. 
 
 The distance for the large -growing kinds in the orchard 
 is from twenty-five to thirty feet each way, but the half- 
 dwarf kinds such as Bahia or Washington Navel may be 
 as close as twenty feet each way, although twenty -five 
 feet will be desirable. If the roots are sacked, the trees 
 should be placed in the hole without removing the cover- 
 ing and the soil should then be packed about them, but 
 if they are puddled, a mound should be made in the bot- 
 tom of the hole. In the center an opening should be 
 made into which the tap-root can be inserted. After the 
 
ORANGES 
 
 327 
 
 soil has been firmly packed about it, the other roots 
 should be spread out aud the hole filled with good soil, 
 packing it carefully. Care should be taken that the roots 
 are not exposed in handling the trees, and if the weather 
 is hot and dry the tops should be shaded. Water may 
 often be used with good results in settling the soil about 
 the roots. 
 
 Pruning the orange. — When transplanted, the tops 
 should be cut back in proportion to the amount of roots 
 
 219. Kawachi, a Japauese-American type of orange. 
 
 lost in digging the trees. The head is usually started 
 with the branches about two feet from the ground. Each 
 year while the trees are small, the strong shoots should 
 be cut back to preserve a symmetrical form and the weak 
 and surplus shoots should be removed. 
 
 Cultivation of orange orchards.— The cultivation of 
 orange orchards should be the same as recommended for 
 other fruits, except that as they grow in hot, dry climates, 
 
328 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 it should be even more thorough, that the evaporation of 
 moisture from the soil may be reduced to a minimum. 
 California growers have found that by frequent shallow 
 cultivation they can reduce the amount of water that 
 must be applied by irrigation, and that frequent tillage 
 and a little water will give better results than little or 
 no cultivation and a large amount of water. The amount 
 of water required will also depend on the season and the 
 character of the soil. Thus on strong soils and after a 
 heavy rainfall, no irrigation will be required, while sandy 
 soils will need irrigating as often as once in three or four 
 weeks from May to October. As a general rule, two or 
 three irrigations in a season will be ample. When used 
 at all, water should be applied in sufficient quantities to 
 wet down to the roots of the trees. Frequent scanty 
 waterings may do much harm. The water is usually ap- 
 plied in furrows, and for young trees there should be one 
 on either side of each row, but as the roots extend the 
 number should be increased, iintil when five or six years 
 old the entire orchard should be irrigated from furrows 
 four or five feet apart. In Florida, irrigation is not neces- 
 sary. Excellent oranges are also grown in the Delta 
 country of the Mississippi, below New Orleans, where they 
 ripen early. 
 
 Varieties of the orange.— Among the best varieties 
 are: Bahia, commonly known as Washington Navel, Mal- 
 tese Blood, Mediterranean Sweet, Paper Rind, St. Michael, 
 Valencia, and Beach No. 1. Homosassa, Magnum Bonum 
 and Nonpariel are favorites in Florida. The Tangerines 
 and Madarins, or the "Kidglove" oranges (Fig. 218), have 
 a thin rind that is easily detached from the rather dry 
 pulp. Orange trees are frequently injured by various 
 scale insects, but for several of the most troublesome 
 kinds, insect parasites have been found, and for others 
 the trees are sprayed, or fumigated with hydrocyanic 
 acid gas. 
 
OLIVE -GROWING 329 
 
 THE OLIVE 
 
 Although olive trees thrive best on a warm, rich aud 
 well -drained soil, they may be grown with success on 
 dry, rocky hillsides. The greater part of southern and 
 central California is adapted to the culture of this fruit. 
 While the mean annual temperature should not be lower 
 than sixty degrees, the olive can be grown with success 
 even though the mercury may fall to fifteen degrees, 
 provided the average temperature for the coldest month 
 is at least forty degrees. 
 
 The trees can be grown from seeds, if the pulp is first 
 removed and the seeds freed from oil by soaking them 
 in lye. They may also be readily propagated from either 
 long or short half-hard cuttings, or by budding or graft- 
 ing. The trees are planted from twenty to twenty -five 
 feet apart each way, and on account of their drooping 
 habit they should be trained with a moderately high 
 trunk, with a center stem. The side shoots should be 
 headed -back and the drooping branches removed. 
 
 Olives ripen during the winter, and should be gathered 
 as soon as they turn purple. If to be used for oil, the 
 fruit is first partially dried and then placed in masonry 
 vats, where it is crushed with stone or iron rollers. The 
 oil is then pressed out, poured into tanks or vats for 
 settling, and then, after being filtered through several 
 thicknesses of cotton batting or felt, is put into bottles. 
 
 If for pickling, care should be taken to handle the fruit 
 when gathering it so that it will not be bruised. It 
 should be poured into tubs of water, which should be 
 changed daily for a month or so. The olives are then 
 placed in weak brine, and after three or four days are 
 changed into brine that will bear an egg, and in this 
 can be kept indefinitely. Instead of going to the trouble 
 of repeatedly changing the water, the same results can 
 be secured, /. e., the removal of the bitter taste, if the 
 
330 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 olives are soaked in weak lye before they are placed in 
 the brine. 
 
 Olive trees respond to good care and cultivation, and 
 will remain in fruit for many years. The Mission olive 
 is largely grown in California, and Manzanillo, Pendoulier, 
 Uvaria, Columella and Maerocarpa are receiving at- 
 tention. 
 
 THE PINEAPPLE 
 
 This fruit thrives on rich hammocks and clays, although 
 sandy soil with a yellow subsoil is generally preferred. 
 It is propagated either from suckers that spring up from 
 the base of old plants, from the bud and tuft of leaves 
 above the fruit, which is called the crown, or from "slips" 
 which grow from the stems below the fruits. They 
 root readily by inserting them in beds of damp moss or 
 sand, after removing some of the lower leaves. The 
 ground for pineapples is prepared by opening furrows 
 or shallow trenches a foot or so wide and deep, in which 
 a compost of manure, leaves and muck is placed. For 
 large fruits, the plants should not be closer than two 
 feet in the rows. The weeds must be kept down by 
 frequent cultivation or by a heavy mulch. To secure 
 against frost, the plants must be covered. For this pur- 
 pose shingles or boards can be used while the plants are 
 small, but as they become larger stout stakes are set in 
 the ground; these are connected by rails, over which 
 brush or burlaps are placed. With good care the fruit 
 may ripen in two years, although three or four may elapse 
 before it comes to maturity, 
 
 Spanish, Sugar Loaf, Egyptian, Ripley Queen, and Porto 
 Rico are favorite varieties of pines. 
 
 BANANA 
 
 This fruit can be grown in but few localities, as it is 
 greatly injured by frost and, unlike the pineapple, it can- 
 
BANANA — FIG 331 
 
 not be covered. It thrives on a well -drained, rich, warm, 
 sandy loam. The plants, which can be readily obtained 
 from suckers sent up by the old stems, should be set 
 eight or ten feet apart each way in holes two feet deep 
 and three feet wide, which have been filled with a rich 
 compost. They should be heavily mulched, and water 
 should be freely applied when necessary. 
 
 Hart's Choice and Martinique are excellent varieties. 
 
 FIG 
 
 Few fruits can be grown under as varied conditions of 
 soil and climate as the fig, which does well in all parts 
 of California, except on the mountains and in the more 
 northern counties ; the only requirements are heat enough 
 to ripen the fruit and a winter that will not injure the 
 trees. It also grows well in Florida and parts of Georgia. 
 They are propagated from cuttings or by budding and 
 grafting. For a permanent orchard, the trees should 
 be forty feet apart, but at first they may be set at half 
 that distance and removed later on, or other fruits may 
 be grown between the rows for several years. Fig trees 
 are headed rather higher than other fruits, especially if 
 the fruits are to be used for drying. The branches should 
 not be very close upon the trunks, and shoots on the 
 under side of the limbs should be removed. After the 
 head has been formed little pruning will be required, 
 and the trees will come into bearing the third year. 
 
 The greatest drawback to the fig industry in California 
 is that growers have not been able to naturalize the insect 
 necessary to secure fertilization of the seeds, which is re- 
 quired for fruit to be of the highest quality when cured. 
 
 White Adriatic is the most commonly grown white fig. 
 Among the other varieties are California Black or Mis- 
 sion fig. Brown Ischia, Brown Turkey, Green Ischia and 
 Celestial, 
 
332 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 Even as far north as Maryland, figs can be grown by- 
 laying them down in winter. 
 
 3. Tfie Grape 
 
 In order that they may ripen, in most of the states 
 grapes require a rather warm soil and a sunny exposure. 
 That they may escape both the late spring and early 
 autumn frosts, they should be planted in elevated spots, 
 as far as possible. The distance should vary according 
 to the growth of the variety and the method of training. 
 Some of the small -growing sorts may be as close as 
 eight feet each way, but ten feet between the rows is 
 desirable for most kinds ; although some growers prune 
 strong -growing varieties so that they stand sixteen feet 
 apart in the row, ten or twelve feet will ordinarily be 
 better. Trellises are much more commonly used than 
 stakes to support the vines. For these the posts are set 
 about twenty-five feet apart, so that they will stand six 
 feet out of the ground, and for a vertical trellis, two 
 No. 10 galvanized wires are placed upon them; one being 
 at the top of the posts, and the other two feet below it. 
 A horizontal trellis is preferred by some. This is made 
 by placing cross arms two feet long near the top of the 
 posts, and upon these stretching three wires about one 
 foot apart. Persons who desire specific information on 
 training grapes, should consult "Pruning-Book." 
 
 Varieties of grapes. — Under nearly all conditions, the 
 Concord will be a valuable black variety, although Wor- 
 den, which is a few days earlier, may be preferred by 
 many. Moore's Early has been our best very early black 
 variety, but is likely to be superseded by Campbell's 
 Early, which is a stronger vine, more productive, bunches 
 larger, fruit of better quality, and of superior keeping 
 qualities, making it valuable for shipping purposes. Ca- 
 

 220. Gall on a 
 grape cane. 
 
 
 W^ii^ 
 
 221. The bag ready to be adjusted. 
 
 222. Second stage in adjusting the bag. 
 
334 
 
 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 tawba, Delaware and Brighton are among the best red 
 varieties, although Agawam and Salem are much used. 
 Winchell (Green Mountain) is the best early white variety, 
 and in most sections Niagara, a late white sort, does well. 
 Moore Diamond is a white grape of better quality than 
 Niagara. 
 
 The diseases of the grape.— Grape-vines are subject 
 to the attack of downy mildew in cold, wet seasons, of 
 powdery mildew when it is hot 
 and dry, as well as anthracnose 
 and black -rot. All of these are 
 most troublesome upon vines that 
 have ben weakened from over- 
 bearing, but there is a great dif- 
 erence in the ability of the vines 
 of different varieties to resist 
 their attacks. Where any of 
 these diseases are troublesome, 
 the prunings and the fallen leaves 
 and fruit should be destroyed, 
 and the vines thoroughly sprayed 
 with fungicides. The first ap- 
 plication should be made in the 
 spring before growth starts, and 
 the others at intervals or two or 
 tliree weeks during the season, 
 the number and frequency of the 
 
 applications depending upon the 223. The operation 
 
 prevalence of the disease.* completed 
 
 * A nurseryman sent me the object shown in Fig. 220, saying that he 
 took it from a grape-vine near which grew a Kiefifer pear; and judg- 
 ing from this perilous proximity of the two plants and the very sus- 
 picious shape of the excrescence, he was bound to conclude that he 
 had a veritable hybrid between a grape and a pear! Even at the risk 
 of seeming to be unappreciative of discoveries in pomology, I was 
 obliged to report that the entomologist declared the object to be only 
 a gall— and a not uncommon one— produced by an insect.— L H. R. 
 
GRAPES 335 
 
 For home use and special purposes, grapes may be 
 bagged, to protect them from black-rot, frost, birds and 
 insects. The operation consists in enclosing the cluster 
 (when the grapes are half grown) in grocers' manilla 
 bags, allowing these bags to remain until the grapes are 
 fully ripe. Because of the greater and more uniform 
 warmth in the bags, the fruits in them are usually earlier, 
 larger and better. Figs. 221, 222, 223 show how the 
 bags are prepared and applied, the flaps being secured 
 with a pin. 
 
 EUROPEAN GRAPES 
 
 The cultivation of the European wine grape has :^eaehed 
 immense proportions in California, where there are single 
 vineyards of two to three thousand acres. 
 
 Table and wine grapes are grown successfully in nearly 
 all parts of the state, but the raisin industry is confined 
 to the hot, dry valleys where the fruit can be cured. 
 The vine thrives upon a variety of soils, but for the 
 best results an abundance of plant-food should be 
 provided. The plants are propagated by layering, bud- 
 ding, grafting, and most commonly from cuttings, which 
 are inserted in the ground where the vine is to grow. 
 Most of the grapes are grown without trellises, and in 
 the case of the raisin grapes, the trunk is seldom more 
 than fifteen inches high, while wine grapes are but little 
 more than two feet. As generally pruned, the vine is 
 cut back the first year after planting, leaving but one 
 spur with two buds. Shoots are allowed to grow from 
 these, and in the following winter the strongest one that 
 is upright should be cut off at the height the head is 
 desired, and all others removed. Upon the shoot that is 
 left all but two strong buds at the top should be rubbed 
 off. From these, arms are allowed to grow which are 
 cut back at the end of the year to three or four buds 
 each. From these buds the spurs are formed. The 
 
336 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 number should vary with the strength of the plants from 
 five to eight, and the number of buds from three to five 
 upon each. Every year all shoots are removed except one 
 upon each spur, which is cut back to form a new spur. 
 It is well to rub off all suckers that start and to pinch 
 back the ends of the shoots when about two feet long. 
 
 Powdery and downy mildew attack this species, but yield 
 to fungicides. 
 
 The leading table grapes are: Thompson Seedless, 
 Mission, White Muscat of Alexandria, Black Hamburg, 
 Flame Tokaj^, and Rose of Peru. The leading sorts for 
 drying are: White Muscat, Muscatel, Thompson Seed- 
 less, White Malaga, and Sultana. From the fact that it 
 seldom rains from April to October in the raisin district 
 in California, the raisins can be cured in the open air. 
 Large trays of the fruit are placed between the rows in 
 the vineyards. These European types of grapes are the 
 ones which are grown in glass graperies, a discussion of 
 which is not germane to this book. 
 
 4. Small -fruits 
 
 RED AND BLACK RASPBERRIES 
 
 The distance at which raspberries should be planted 
 varies with the variety. As a rule, the early sorts may 
 be placed as close as six feet, by four feet in the row, 
 or even less if they are to be allowed to form matted 
 rows, but the larger -growing late sorts, such as Grregg 
 and Eureka among the black and Cuthbert and Colum- 
 bian of the reds, should be seven or eight feet apart on 
 rich soil, and four or five feet in the row. After the first 
 year or two the red varieties may be allowed to throw 
 up suckers, so as to form continuous rows. The shoots 
 
RASPBERRIES 
 
 337 
 
 of raspberries sent up one season fruit and die the fol- 
 lowing year. 
 
 Pruning raspberries. — Most of the black-eap varie- 
 ties naturally throw out branches the first season, and 
 with all such it is a good plan to pinch back the new 
 canes as soon as they have reached a height of from two 
 to three feet, according to the full height of the variety. 
 This will hasten the throwing out of side shoots, upon 
 which fruit will be borne the following year. As soon 
 as severe freezing weather is over in the spring, these 
 
 /it 
 
 224. Rooting "tip " of black raspberry. 
 
 side shoots should be cut back to from nine to twelve 
 inches, according to the strength of the canes and the 
 number of side branches upon them. 
 
 The same method of pruning is advisable with red 
 varieties like Cuthbert, which naturally branch freely. 
 Other sorts, like King, Hansell, Marlboro, Turner, and 
 Thwack, that seldom branch, should not be pinched back 
 in summer, as, even though this might induce them to 
 send out shoots, the branches will be weak, and if they 
 survive the winter, will produce less fruit than would the 
 strong buds upon the main canes had they not been 
 forced into growth. 
 
 Pruned in this way, nearly all varieties will have stems 
 sufficiently large to support themselves, but as there will 
 
 V 
 
338 
 
 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 be more or less breaking down, and injury to the fruit 
 from the bending over of the canes, many growers prefer 
 to support them by means of stakes or trellises. Stakes 
 may be set in each hill, or for matted rows stout stakes 
 three feet high are driven at intervals of forty feet and 
 a No. 10 galvanized wire is stretched along the row, to 
 which the canes are tied. It would be a saving of labor 
 if a wire is stretched either side of the row, as then no 
 tying will be required. As soon as the crop has been 
 gathered, and the old canes are dead, they should be re- 
 
 225. Suckers of red raspberi'ies. 
 
 moved, and at the same time all of the surplus new 
 shoots should be cut away. From four to five good canes 
 will be sufficient for each hill, while in rows the number 
 may be from two to three in each foot. 
 
 If it is desired to obtain new plants, the ends of the 
 branches of the black varieties should be covered with 
 soil about the middle of August, when the tips are seen 
 to divide into several slender shoots, and to take root 
 (Fig. 224) ; these can be taken up and planted the follow- 
 ing spring. While the suckers that spring up from the 
 roots of red varieties (Fig. 225), may be used in propa- 
 gating them, it will be better to use plants grown from 
 root cuttings, as they will have much better roots. 
 
RASPBERRIES— BLACKBERRIES 339 
 
 Varieties of raspberries. — Of the black sorts the 
 following will be found desirable: Palmer, Conrath, Kan- 
 sas, and Eureka, which ripen in the order named. In 
 some sections the Gregg is still valuable, but it is some- 
 what lacking in hardiness. Ohio is a favorite variety for 
 evaporating. Of the purple-cap varieties, Shaffer and 
 Columbian generally succeed. Among the red varieties 
 none are more universally successful than Cuthbert. King 
 is a promising early variety, and Loudon is a valuable 
 late kind. Many growers find Marlboro and Turner well 
 worthy of cultivation, although rather local in their adap- 
 tations; while for home use, Golden Queen, a yellow 
 Cuthbert, is much liked. 
 
 Diseases. — The most troublesome disease of the rasp- 
 berry is anthracnose, which attacks the stems, causing 
 large scars, and leads to the drying out of the canes. It 
 is most troublesome in old, neglected plantations, and if 
 very serious it will be best to abandon the plantation and 
 start a new one with healthy plants. Many growers find 
 it necessary to renew their plantation as often as once 
 in five or six years, in order to secure the best results. 
 The use of Bordeaux mixture in the spring, before growth 
 starts, again when the young shoots have reached a 
 height of one foot, and a third application at the end 
 of two or three weeks, will generally secure a healthy 
 growth, provided the old canes have not been severely 
 injured. 
 
 blackberries and dewberries 
 
 In a general way the planting and care of a black- 
 berry plantation is the same as required by raspberries. 
 From the fact that they ripen later in the season, when 
 droughts are most common, even greater attention should 
 be given to locating them upon a soil that is retentive 
 of moisture, and to providing an efficient mulch, which 
 can generally best be secured with a cultivator. The 
 
340 
 
 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 stronger -growing varieties should have at least eight feet 
 between the rows, but some of the smaller rows may be 
 planted at six feet. While hill culture is desirable for 
 the garden, commercial, growers generally use continuous 
 rows. 
 
 Varieties of blackberries. — Many of the better varie- 
 ties of blackberries are lacking in hardiness, and cannot 
 be grown except in the more favorable localities. Snyder 
 and Taylor are most generally successful, although Wilson 
 and Early Harvest are often grown on 
 a large scale for market, and do well 
 with winter protection. Eldorado is a 
 new sort much like Snyder, that seems 
 hardy and productive, Erie, Minnewaski 
 and Early King are in many sections 
 large and valuable sorts. 
 
 Dewberries are trailing blackberries. 
 They are usually earlier, and can be 
 more easily protected in winter. They 
 should be trained to a trellis or tied 
 to stakes. Lucretia (Fig. 226) is the 
 leading variety. 
 
 Diseases. — The most troublesome dis- 
 ease of the blackbei'ry is orange rust, 
 which often proves very destructive, 
 particularly to Kittatinny and a few 
 other sorts. While spraying may aid 
 in preventing its spread, there is no 
 remedy, and on the first appearance 
 of the disease the infected canes should be removed and 
 burned. 
 
 226. Lucretia dew 
 
 berry. Natural 
 
 size. 
 
 CURRANTS 
 
 Currants delight in a cool, moist soil, and cannot be 
 grown successfully in the southern states. While many 
 growers place them five feet each way, some prefer to 
 
CURRANT 341 
 
 have them six or seven feet between the rows. For the 
 first year or two after planting, the currants require but 
 little care in pruning, except to cut back the new shoots 
 about one-half, and if very thick, to remove the weaker 
 ones. As the fruit is borne upon the old canes, there 
 should be in each hill at least five or six fruiting stalks, 
 which should be allowed to remain until four or five 
 years old, when they should be removed and new canes 
 provided to take their place. As the vines get older, 
 the annual pruning will consist in the removal of one 
 or two of the old canes and the thinning out of all sur- 
 plus shoots. One or two new shoots should be allowed 
 to remain, to take the place of the old ones that are re- 
 moved. 
 
 Insects and diseases of the currant. — Currants are 
 frequently much injured by borers, which work in the 
 pith of the canes and destroy them. Varieties with a 
 large pith and soft wood are most troubled by them. All 
 dead and dying canes should at once be removed and 
 burned, as should all canes that in pruning are found 
 to have the borers in them. The currant worms also 
 do much harm, and frequently defoliate the plants. The 
 eggs hatch when the leaves are about one -half grown, 
 and if the plants are at that time thoroughly sprayed 
 with Paris green at the rate of one pound to one hun- 
 dred and fifty gallons of water, the first brood will be 
 destroyed and there will generally be little trouble from 
 the second. If they appear after the fruit is half grown, 
 they can be destroyed with pyrethrum, used at the rate 
 of a tablespoonful to a gallon of water. Currants are 
 also likely to be injured by various forms of leaf-blight, 
 but the foliage can be preserved by the use of Bordeaux 
 mixtur"^ in the spring and again after the crop has been 
 gathered. The first application may be made at the same 
 time as that of the Paris green for the currant worms. 
 
 Varieties of currants.— In most sections the Red 
 
342 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 Dutch will be found to be the most satisfactory variety, 
 as the plants are much less injured by borers than are 
 Cherry, Fay and Versailles, which are larger and better 
 varieties, and are to be preferred in sections where the 
 borers are not troublesome. Victoria is a valuable market 
 sort where borers are numerous, as they are little injured 
 by them. The same is also true of Prince Albert, which 
 is little attacked by currant worms and is particularly 
 valuable as a late sort. White Dutch and White Grape 
 are valuable light- colored varieties, and Black Naples as a 
 variety for jelly. 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES 
 
 While this fruit, like the currant, delights in a cool, 
 moist soil, it should only be planted where it can have a 
 free circulation of air, unless it is in partial shade. The 
 distance should be the same as given for the currant, and 
 it will well repay the best of cultivation. From the 
 tendency of most varieties to throw up suckers, careful 
 attention should be paid, particularly while the plants are 
 young, to the removal of surplus shoots, in order to secure 
 an open head. Aside from the heading-back of the young 
 shoots and the removal of the older canes, little pruning 
 will be required. If soil of a suitable nature cannot be 
 secured, few plants will be more benefited by a mulch. 
 
 Insects and diseases. — Gooseberrries are, even more 
 than the currant, attacked by the currant worms, and 
 the same remedies should be used upon them. In addi- 
 tion to the leaf-blight, gooseberries, particularly the va- 
 rieties of English origin, are often much injured by 
 powdery mildew, which attacks stems, leaves and fruits. 
 It is most troublesome in dry seasons and on dry soils, 
 especially as the gooseberry thrives best in a cool, moist 
 climate. Much can be done to prevent its attack by a 
 proper selection of soil; by planting either in a partial 
 shade, or upon a hill -side, where tj?.e air can have a free 
 
GOOSEBERRIES — STRAWBERRIES 343 
 
 circulation, as well as by the removal of the lower branches 
 and training the plants in an open, vase-shaped form. 
 The disease yields readily to the application of fungicides, 
 and all plants of European origin should be sprayed in 
 the spring, before growth starts, with Bordeaux mixture, 
 and the application should be repeated at intervals of 
 from ten days to two weeks, from the time the leaves 
 are half- grown until there is danger of spotting the fruit. 
 From that time until the fruit is gathered, a solution 
 of sulphide of potassium, at the rate of one ounce to 
 three gallons, should be used at frequent intervals. After 
 the fruit has been picked, Bordeaux mixture should be 
 applied, and the application repeated on the first ap- 
 pearance of the disease. 
 
 Varieties of gooseberries. — For ordinary use the Down- 
 ing can generally be recommended. It is hardy, produc- 
 tive, of fair size and greenish white in color. Houghton 
 is even more hardy and j)roductive, but the fruit is rather 
 small and of a dark red color. Among the varieties of 
 European origin which can be successfully grown, if the 
 mildew can be prevented, are Industry, Triumph, Keep- 
 sake, Lancashire Lad, and Golden Prolific, Among other 
 varieties that are promising, are Champion, Columbus 
 Chautauqua, and Red Jacket. 
 
 STRAWBERRIES 
 
 While strawberries thrive upon a variety of soils, they 
 generally succeed best upon a strong, sandy loam, or a 
 light clay loam. For most purposes it will be found best 
 to grow them in narrow, matted rows. The plants should 
 be set as early in the spring as the ground can be worked, 
 in rows three and one -half feet apart, and from one to 
 two feet in the row, according to the tendency of the 
 variety to form runners. The planting can be done with 
 a trowel, spade, or dibble, taking care to spread the roots 
 
344 
 
 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 out as much as possible and to press the soil firmly about 
 them, holding the plant so that the bud will be just above 
 the surface. If the season is late and the weather is hot 
 and dry, some or all of the older leaves should be re- 
 moved. If water is used, it should be poured about the 
 roots before the hole is filled and as soon as it has soaked 
 away the remaining soil should be packed about the 
 plants. During the first season the ]>lossom stalks should 
 
 227. Potted strawberry plant. 
 
 be removed as soon as they appear, and the runners should 
 be restricted to a space about one foot wide. Some per- 
 sons prefer to still farther reduce the number of plants, 
 and after layering from three to four plants between those 
 originally set, all others are removed. 
 
 Strawberries are often set in August or September, but 
 
STRAWBEKRY 345 
 
 this is advisable only for small patches or when the soil 
 is in the best possible condition and the highest culture is 
 given. For garden culture, it may pay to secure potted 
 plants (Fig. 227). These are sold by many nurserymen, 
 and they may be obtained by plunging pots beneath the 
 runners as soon as the fruiting season is passed. In 
 August, the plant should fill the pot (which should be 
 three -inch or four -inch) and the plant is ready for setting 
 in the plantation. Such plants should bear a good crop 
 the following spring. 
 
 With the highest culture, good results can be obtained 
 from the hill system of growing strawberries. For this 
 the plants may be set in rows three feet apart and one 
 foot in the row, or if it be worked both ways, they may 
 be from two to two and one -half feet each way. In the 
 small garden, where a horse cannot be used, the plants are 
 frequently set one foot each way, arranging them in beds 
 of from three to five rows, with walks two feet wide 
 between them. As fast as runners form, they should be 
 removed, so that the entire vigor of the plant will be 
 exerted in strengthening the crown. When extra fine 
 specimen berries are desired, the plant may be held above 
 the ground by a wire frame, as shown in Fig. 228. 
 
 During the first season strawberries should be frequently 
 worked, rather deep at first, but as the weather becomes 
 warm and the roots fill the ground, it should be restricted 
 to a depth of not more than two inches. The weeds 
 should never be allowed to get a start, and if the season 
 is dry, cultivation should be so fre- -».x^#^«^>^?^yrTf^ 
 quent that the surface soil should at ^^^^^^^^^^^ 
 all times be loose and open, forming ^^i^^!^^^^^^^_ 
 a dust mulch to conserve the mois- p^^^^^^^^^^^P 
 ture. If the fall is moist and the ^5^3M^^^3^^H^ 
 plantation free from weeds, there * ^^^^^^51^/ 
 will be little occasion for cultivation '^ --==53=- 
 
 i-j. 4-u-cj-^c-j- X. x-1-^ 228. Strawberry grown 
 
 alter the first ot .September, until just on a rack. 
 
84:6 THE FRUIT PLANTATION 
 
 before the ground freezes up, when a thorough cultivation 
 should be given. In addition to the horse cultivation, the 
 hoe should be used whenever necessary to loosen the soil 
 about the plants and to destroy weeds that may start in 
 the row. 
 
 After the ground has frozen, it will be advisable to 
 mulch the plants by covering the space between the rows 
 with some waste material to the depth of about two 
 inches. Directly over the plants a covering of one inch 
 will generally suffice. The material used should be free 
 from the seeds of grass and weeds, and should be such 
 as will remain upon the beds without blowing off and 
 that will not pack down too closely upon the plants. 
 Marsh hay makes an ideal mulch, but where it can not be 
 secured, straw will answer. Corn fodder makes a clean 
 but rather coarse mulch, and where they can be held in 
 place by some other material, forest leaves do well as a 
 mulch between the rows. In the spring the straw should 
 be removed from over the plants and allowed to remain 
 between the rows as a mulch, or all of it may be removed 
 and the soil worked with a cultivator. 
 
 A large crop should be produced the second season, and 
 many believe it best to renew the plantation each year, 
 but if the plants are healthy and the ground free from 
 grass and weeds, the plantation can often be retained for 
 a second crop. It will be well to plow the soil away from 
 the rows so as to leave but a narrow strip, and along this 
 the old plants should be cut out so as to leave the new 
 plants about one foot apart. If this is done in July, the 
 rows should fill up by winter, so as to be in about the 
 same condition as a new bed. 
 
 Varieties of strawberries.— For most parts of the 
 country, Haverland, Warfield, Bubach and Gandy afford 
 a succession and are all hardy and productive varieties. 
 The first three are imperfect -flowered varieties and some 
 such perfect -flowering kinds, as Lovett or Beder Wood, 
 
STRAWBERRY 347 
 
 should be provided to fertilize them. Among other va- 
 rieties that do well in most sections, are Brandywine, 
 Greenville, Clyde, and Woolverton. Parker Earle is very 
 late, and is valuable for either home use or market, upon 
 strong, moist soils, where it can have the best of care. 
 William Belt and Marshall have large, showy fruits, and 
 do well on strong soil. 
 
 Tnsects and diseases of the strawberry. — The insect 
 most commonly troublesome to the strawberry grower is 
 the common June-bug, or May-beetle, the larvae of which 
 are often very common in land that has been in sod. 
 Two years should elapse before sod land is used for this 
 crop. 
 
 Cut-worms are often troublesome, but plowing the land 
 the fall previous to setting the plants will result in de- 
 stroying many of them. They can be poisoned by sprink- 
 ling about the field clover or other green plants that 
 have been soaked in Paris green water. 
 
 There are also a number of leaf-rollers and other larv?e 
 that feed upon the foliage of the strawberry, but they 
 will do little harm, if on their first appearance the plants 
 are thoroughly sprayed with Paris green water. 
 
 The most common fungous disease of the strawberry is 
 leaf -blight or "rust," which frequently causes much injury 
 to the foliage, and may result in the loss of the crop. 
 Varieties least subject to the disease should be chosen 
 for planting, and upon suitable soils and well cared for, 
 there need be little loss from this disease if the planta- 
 tion is frequently renewed. 
 
Section V 
 
 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 It is essential to any satisfaction in vegetable 
 growing that the soil be rich and thoroughlj^ 
 subdnecl and fined. The plantation should also 
 be so arranged that the tilling can be done with 
 wheel tools, and, where the space will allow it, 
 
 {fi^ 
 
 
 
 229. Cultivating the back-ache. 
 
 with horse tools. The old-time garden bed (Fig. 
 229) consumes time and labor, wastes moisture, 
 and is more trouble and expense than it is 
 worth. 
 
 The rows of vegetables should be long and 
 continuous, to allow of tillage with wheel tools. 
 If it is not desired to grow a full row of any 
 
 (348) 
 
6 ft. 
 
 
 a 
 
 a) 
 
 
 M 
 
 A 
 
 o 
 
 cc 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 t, 
 
 f^ 
 
 < 
 
 >, 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 6 ft. 4 ft 4 ft. 
 
 3 3 2|, 2^,2^ 4ft. 4ft. 
 'ft. ft. ftMttt. 
 
 ^\ 
 
 f3 
 
 P4 
 
 Si "* 
 
 P? 
 
 -f: .^ 
 
 « 
 
 U 
 
 
 er! 
 
 Hi 
 
 Ti 
 
 
 
 ;h 
 
 n 
 
 
 TS 
 
 O 
 
 S3 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 a> 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 >. 
 
 4^ 
 
 
 
 c6 
 
 +J 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 0) 
 
 o 
 
 OS 
 
 
 
 Ph 
 
 o 
 
 
 01 
 
 >. 
 
 >> 
 
 cc 
 
 pi 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 4) 
 
 
 ctf 
 
 03 
 
 0) 
 
 <u 
 
 W 
 
 w 
 
 PQ 
 
 ^ 
 
 4ft. 4 ft. 
 
 
 a> 
 
 CO 
 
 cS 
 
 M 
 
 O 
 
 ,p) 
 to 
 
 
 m 
 
 «ft.| 8 ft 8 ft 
 
 230. Tracy's plan for a kitchen-garden. 
 
 Rule-Book." 
 
 From "Horticnltnrist's 
 
-350 
 
 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 one vegetable, the row may be made up of sev- 
 eral species, one following the other. One or 
 
 ( I 
 
 ; i 1 
 
 ? ^ 
 
 I ^ 
 
 
 { \ \ 
 
 ! \ I 
 
 < » < 
 
 i I 
 
 
 > < 
 
 < ! 
 
 ; ) 
 
 i ^ 
 
 1 i 
 
 
 ! M 
 
 < ( 
 
 \ ) 
 
 I \ 
 
 ! ! 
 
 ( ) 
 
 I ) 
 
 \ I 
 
 \ i ^ 
 
 Mi) 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 li 
 
 / I 
 ; i 
 
 i I 
 
 
 1 ! 
 
 
 li 
 
 ! i 
 
 I ; I 
 
 ? i 
 
 ' ! 
 
 i! 
 
 < 5 
 
 in 
 III 
 
 231. Suggestion for a gardeu fence. 
 
 < ( 
 
 two long rows containing a dozen kinds of vege- 
 tables are usually preferable to a dozen short 
 rows, each with one kind of vegetable. Fig. 230 
 shows a good plan for a kitchen garden. Fig. 
 
RowsI>^rAPA^T it^^'r Rows Zrr.AP Af^T RowsSTtAp^^^ 
 
 H lit 
 
352 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 231 is a plan of a fenced garden, in which gates 
 are provided at the ends to allow the turning of 
 a horse and cultivator (Webb Donnell, in Ameri- 
 can Gardening) . Fig. 232 shows a garden with 
 continuous rows but with two breaks running 
 across the area dividing the plantation into blocks. 
 The area is surrounded with a windbreak, and 
 the frames and permanent plants are at one 
 side. 
 
 It is by no means necessary that the vegetable 
 garden should contain only kitchen -garden vege- 
 tables. Flowers maj^ be dropped in here and 
 there, wherever a vacant corner occurs or a plant 
 dies. Such informal and mixed gardens usually 
 have a personal character which adds greatly to 
 their interest, and, therefore, to their value. One 
 is generally impressed with this informal char- 
 acter of the home -gardens in many European 
 countries, a type of planting which arises from 
 the necessity of making the most of every inch 
 of land. It was the writer's pleasure to look 
 over the fence of a Bavarian peasant's garden 
 and to see, on a space about forty feet by one 
 hundred feet in area, a delightful mixture of 
 onions, pole beans, peonies, celer}^, balsams, 
 gooseberries, coleus, cabbages, sunflowers, beets, 
 poppies, cucumbers, morning-glories, kohl-rabi, 
 verbenas, bush beans, pinks, stocks, currants, 
 wormwood, parsley, carrots, kale, perennial phlox, 
 nasturtiums, feverfew, lettuce, lilies! 
 
VEGETABLES 353 
 
 ROW TO GROW VEGETABLES'^ 
 
 CF. A. Waugh) 
 
 1. Root Crops and Tubers — Beet, Carrot, Parsnip, Potato, etc. 
 
 To grow root crops, loose and deep soil, free from clods, 
 is required. The land must also be perfectly drained, not 
 only to remove superfluous moisture, but to provide a deep 
 and friable soil. Subsoiling is useful in hard lands. A 
 large admixture of sand is generally desirable, provided 
 the soil is not apt to overheat in sunny weather. 
 
 To keep roots fresh in the cellar, pack them in barrels, 
 boxes or bins of sand which is just naturally moist, allow- 
 ing each root to come wholly or partly in contact with the 
 sand. The best material in which to pack them is sphag- 
 num moss, the same which nurserymen use in packing 
 trees for shipment, and which may be obtained in bogs 
 in many parts of the country. In either sand or sphag- 
 num, the roots will not shrivel; but if the cellar is warm, 
 they may start to grow. Roots can also be buried after the 
 manner of potatoes. 
 
 Beets are best grown in drills three and a-half feet apart. 
 The seeds, if fresh, are sown rather sparsely very early in 
 the season, and covered with an inch of mellow soil. The 
 young plants will endure light frost. When the plants be- 
 gin to grow they should be thinned to six or eight inches in 
 the row. The young plants which are removed may be 
 used for greens. For winter beets, sow in July or August 
 in the same manner, and after the first heavy frost take up 
 the roots, cut off the tops, sort, and store in a root cellar 
 or pit. For first crop, select short or globular varieties, 
 such as Extra Early Egyptian, Early Eclipse or Bastian's 
 
 ^Mushrooms, being grown indoors, do not come under the purview of 
 this book. Consult Falconer's book on " Mushrooms." 
 
 For succinct advice on the treatment of insects and fungi, consult 
 the last edition of Horticulturist's Rule-Book. 
 
 W 
 
354 
 
 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 (Fig. 233) Blood Turnip. For winter crop, choose Long 
 Dark Blood. Some of the early varieties, when sown late, 
 are also good keepers. (For Swiss Chard, see page 379.) 
 
 Beets are generally free from insect and fungous troubles, 
 although a leaf-blight is common in some places. For 
 
 \ 
 
 233. Bastian Turnip beet. 
 
 234. A half-long carrot. 
 
 this two or three sprayings with Bordeaux mixture, before 
 the disease makes headway, are effective. 
 
 Turnips should be grown in drills, like beets, for the 
 early crop. The young plants will stand light frosts. 
 Choose a rainy day for planting, if practicable. Cover 
 the seed very lightly. Thin the young plants to five to 
 seven inches in the row. Sow every two weeks if a con- 
 
ROOT CROPS 355 
 
 stant supply is desired, as turnips rapidly become hard and 
 
 woody in warm summer weather. For the fall and winter 
 
 crop in the North, 
 
 " Ou the fourteenth day of July, 
 Sow your turnips, wet or dry." 
 
 In many parts of the Northern and Middle states tradition 
 fixes the 25th of July as the proper time for sowing flat 
 turnips for winter use. In the Middle states, turnips 
 are sometimes sown as late as the end of August. 
 
 Or, take advantage of any convenient leisure at about 
 that season to prepare a piece of very mellow ground, and 
 sow the seed thinly and evenly broadcast. In spite of the 
 old rhyme, a gentle shower will then be acceptable. These 
 turnips are pulled after frost, the tops removed, and the 
 roots stored in cellars or pits. For the early crop, Purple - 
 top Strap-leaf, Early White Flat Dutch and Early Purple- 
 top Milan are the favorite varieties. Yellow- fleshed sorts 
 like Golden Ball are very fine for early table use, when 
 well grown, but most eaters prefer white turnips in spring, 
 although they occasionally patronize the yellow varieties in 
 the fall. Yellow Globe is the favorite yellow fall turnip, 
 though some persons grow yellow ruta-bagas and call them 
 turnips. For late crop of white turnips, the same varieties 
 chosen for spring sowing are also desirable. 
 
 Ruta-bagas are distinguished from turnips by their 
 smooth, bluish foliage, long root and yellow flesh. They 
 are richer than turnips; but they require the same treat- 
 ment, except that the season of growth is longer. Fall- 
 sown or summer- sown bagas should have a month the start 
 of flat turnips. 
 
 Except the maggot (see Radish), there are no serious 
 insects or diseases peculiar to turnips and bagas. 
 
 Carrots should be kept on hand in a state of tender im- 
 maturity throughout the season, to be used in soups, salads, 
 boiled dinners, and other savory cookery. With this in 
 view, several small successional sowings should be made of 
 
356 
 
 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 small -growing, fine-grained varieties, as Early Scarlet 
 Horn or Earliest Short-horn. Early Half-long Scarlet 
 (Fig. 234) is desirable for later crops and for storing in 
 
 2H5. Student parsnip. 
 
 / 
 
 236. Salsify. 
 
 the root-cellar for winter use. Carrots for the kitchen - 
 garden may be sown very early in drills one foot apart in 
 beds, or three by three and a half feet apart for horse cul- 
 tivation. Cover the seed very lightly, pressing down the 
 soil firmly. Thin young plants to four inches in a row. 
 
ROOT CROPS 357 
 
 Carrot seed is small, and germinates slowly. Be careful 
 that the earth does not bake over the row before the plants 
 come up. Radish seed sown in the same drill (page 37) 
 will break the crust and mark the row. For late crop, seed 
 may be sown as late as midsummer, unless the very large 
 varieties are used. 
 
 There are no serious enemies or diseases. 
 
 Parsnip. Treat exactly like carrot, so far as sowing 
 and thinning are concerned. For early use and summer 
 successions, plant Early Round, and for later crops Long 
 Smooth, or some good strain of Hollow Crown. Parsnips 
 may be left in the ground all winter without protection, 
 and the roots are then dug in warm spells, or in spring, as 
 wanted. The main-crop varieties, as Long Smooth, Hollow 
 Crown and Student (Fig. 235) require the entire season in 
 which to grow. 
 
 No serious enemies or diseases. 
 
 Salsify (Fig. 236). This delicious and much-neglected 
 vegetable requires the entire summer for its development. 
 Sow in early spring, being careful not to plant too thick. 
 Thinning is a little difficult, but the plants must not be 
 crowded. Leave four to five inches between plants. When 
 the ground does not freeze excessively, salsify roots may be 
 left out throughout the winter, and dug whenever a potato 
 fork or a crowbar will get them out. Usually, however, 
 the roots should be dug before the soil freezes, and stored in 
 slightly moist soil, or in moss, in a frame or cellar. Mam- 
 moth Sandwich Island is practically the only variety offered 
 for sale. 
 
 No enemies. 
 
 Radish. The first crop in spring should be grown in hot- 
 beds or frames (See pages 67 to 88) ; but a tolerably early 
 crop may be secured in the open ground. A mellow 
 " quick" soil is essential. Radishes do not thrive in clay. 
 Radishes must grow very rapidly to be tender, and they 
 should be eaten while still small. Sow in drills a foot or 
 
358 
 
 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 -%*- '^- 
 
 fourteen inches apart, and thin to three inches in the row 
 
 as soon as the young plants are well up. There are many 
 
 desirable early varieties, as French Breakfast, Olive -shaped 
 
 Scarlet, Early Scarlet Turnip and Red Turnip, 
 
 the red or pink varieties usually having the 
 
 preference for table use. Long Scarlet Short- 
 
 top IS a standard late variety. \} 
 
 In summer, the small spring radishes do not 
 thrive, but larger and white varieties are then 
 used, as White Strasburg and Stuttgart. There 
 are winter radishes, — as California Mammoth 
 White, Long Black Spanish, Scarlet Chinese, — 
 which may be stored as 
 beets and turnips are. 
 
 The radish is very 
 liable to the attacks of 
 grubs, which are the 
 lavge of a small fly. 
 These insects burrow in 
 the root, and make it 
 "wormy." The only ef- 
 fective escape is to plant 
 in soil which has not 
 been infested within two 
 or three years. Constant 
 rotation will keep the _^ -Xm^l V' 
 pests in check ; but they 
 also work on turnips. 
 When the insects are 
 troublesome, the crops 
 should be grown on op- 
 posite sides of the garden in successive years, and when 
 they are very bad it may be necessary to give up growing 
 radishes and turnips for a time. The bisulphide of car- 
 bon treatment recommended for cabbage is effective, but 
 would hardly pay with radishes. 
 
 xS^ 
 
 237. French Breakfast 
 
 and Olive- shaped 
 
 radishes. 
 
 238. Good 
 
 horse-radish 
 
 root. 
 
ROOTS AND TUBERS 359 
 
 Horse-radish is a perennial, but for market it is chiefly 
 grown as an annual crop. It is propagated by "sets," 
 which are small roots (the size of one's finger or a lead 
 pencil), which are trimmed from the large roots when 
 the crop is stored in the fall. These sets should be four 
 to six inches long, the top end cut off square, so as to 
 mark the right end up, for if the sets are planted wrong end 
 up, crooked roots will result. To raise good horse-radish, 
 the land should be deep and loose. The sets are planted 
 two or three inches deep in a vertical position, and fifteen 
 to eighteen inches apart. It is customary to plant them 
 in alternate rows or ridges in plantations of early beets or 
 spinach, or other spring crops, allowing the roots to be 
 three or three and one-half feet apart. Plant early, and 
 by early summer let the horse-radish have all the land. 
 The roots (Fig. 238) are dug in late fall, and care is 
 taken to get all the pieces of roots out of the land, for the 
 plant is apt to become a bad weed. If the land is plowed 
 up deep and loose in the fall, most of the remaining 
 roots can be picked out in spring. If old roots or crowns 
 are planted, crooked and branchy roots are obtained. 
 
 Potato, The culture of the potato is so simple and 
 well known as to need no description. Level culture 
 is usually best. Early Ohio, Polaris, and Rural New- 
 Yorker are favorite varieties among hundreds of good 
 ones. (Consult Farmers' Bulletin 35, U. S. Dept. Agr. ; 
 also Bulletin 140, Cornell Exp. Sta.) 
 
 Sweet potato plants are usually started in hotbeds, 
 by planting the tubers. The plants are then slipped 
 off the tubers with the thumb, and set two feet apart 
 in rows five or six feet apart. Frequently the rows are 
 ridged, but this will depend on soil, climate and drainage. 
 Varieties differ greatly; but selection among them is 
 mostly a matter of taste. Some persons prefer the dry, 
 mellow, yellow or white potatoes, others choose the 
 sugary yams. Yellow Nansemond, White Nansemond, 
 
360 
 
 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 Southern Queen and Vineless are generally in good 
 repute. (Consult Farmers' Bulletin 26, U. S. Dept. Agr. ; 
 also Price's "Sweet Potato Culture for Profit.") 
 
 2. Alliaceous Group — Onions, etc. 
 
 Onion. Onions may be grown from seeds or from sets. 
 If seeds are used they may be sown in the open ground 
 where the bulbs are to mature, or they may be sown in 
 greenhouses or hotbeds and the young plantlets trans- 
 planted to the rows in the 
 open ground. In sowing 
 out of doors, seeds should 
 be put in as early as pos- 
 sible, in shallow drills 
 three to three and one- 
 half feet apart, and cov- 
 ered with a half inch of 
 fine, moist earth. They 
 need to be very carefully 
 weeded at first, but if the 
 ground is clean and mel- 
 low and the rows straight 
 the wheel -hoe will be able 
 to take full charge of the 
 work early in the season. 
 It has been repeatedly 
 shown that cheaper, bet- 
 ter and earlier onions can 
 be grown by transplanting 
 the plants from green- 
 houses or hotbeds, where 
 the seeds are sown very 
 early. When the plant- 
 lets are as large as a 
 
 lead pencil, they are set 239. Bunch onions grown from seed 
 four inches apart in rows of the Italian type. 
 
ONIONS — BEANS . 361 
 
 three feet asunder, and cultivation is immediately begun 
 with the wheel -hoe. In growing from sets the planting 
 is made in much the same way. Multiplier or potato 
 onions are similarly managed. 
 
 Varieties. — Prizetaker is probably the most popular va- 
 riety of the present day. Yellow Globe Danvers is also a 
 favorite. The Wethersfield Red is the type of red- 
 bulbed sorts, and the Silver- Skin the most popular white 
 variety. Varieties variously known as "Spanish," "Italian," 
 "Bermuda," or "European" onions are often grown, 
 particularly in the South and in California. Large White 
 Italian Tripoli, Red Italian Tripoli and Giant Rocca are 
 representatives of this class. (Consult T. Greiner, "New 
 Onion Culture," and "Onions for Profit;" Watts, "Onion 
 Culture," Farmers' Bull. 39, U. S. Dept. Agr. ; W. .1 . 
 Green, Ohio Exp. Sta. Bull. Vol. Ill, No. 9, 2d Ser., and 
 N. Y. State Exp. Sta. Rpt. 1888, p. 190.) 
 
 Chives are propagated by division. Secure some of the 
 divided plants, set them in a corner of the garden, and go 
 to them when onion flavoring is wanted. The plants are 
 perennial, and will care for themselves if not choked out 
 by weeds. Chives are perennials, and last for years. 
 
 Leek may be grown in the same way as onions. If 
 long white stems are wanted for eating raw, the plants 
 should be blanched by deep planting and subsequent em- 
 banking, something after the manner of treating celery. 
 
 3. Leguminous Lrroup — Beans and Peas 
 
 String beans are among the most popular of early spring 
 vegetables. * Their value depends largely on having them 
 early, and for this reason they should be sown as, soon as 
 there is a reasonable probability of immunity from frost. 
 Sow every two weeks thereafter for general use. For the 
 earliest crops sandy soil and a southern exposure should 
 be sought. The soil should be well prepared and well 
 fertilized. It is useless to try to force early vegetables 
 
362 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 on a soil which compels plants to forage far and wide 
 for a bare living. It is also evident that only the 
 most soluble fertilizers should be used. The seed should 
 be put in drills three and one -half feet apart if room 
 can be afforded to work the ground with the horse, or 
 the drills may be eight or nine inches apart in a bed 
 if space is very limited. In the latter case, an abun- 
 dance of water and manure is indispensable. Care should 
 be taken, especially when rows are near together, not 
 to sow too thick in the drills. One strong plant 
 every four inches is better than three weak ones in 
 the same row. If the ground is in good condition, 
 without lumps, cultivation can be done with a horse 
 cultivator, the wheel -hoe and the hand hoe. There is 
 a grave mistake somewhere when beans or peas have 
 to be weeded by hand. 
 
 Beans should not be planted too deep, or the grow- 
 ing top of the germinating plantlets will be torn off 
 as they are pushed through the ground. Cover one and 
 one -half to two inches. All varieties which are to be used 
 green should be scrupulously picked as soon as fit to 
 eat. If allowed to ripen they stop growth and produc- 
 tion on the bearing plants. 
 
 Probably the worst disease of string beans is the bean 
 anthracnose, which causes brownish or reddish pitted spots 
 upon the pods, spoiling their appearance and diminish- 
 ing the yield. This may be successfully treated by 
 soaking the seed for an hour before planting in a so- 
 lution of three ounces of copper carbonate and one quart 
 of ammonia to four and one -half gallons of water. 
 
 The bean weevil is often a serious enemy in dry beans. 
 Its ravages may be somewhat controlled by killing the 
 insects in seed beans, either by subjecting them to a 
 temperature of 145° F. for an hour as soon as gathered, 
 or by treating with carbon bi-sulfid in a closed vessel. 
 
 Varieties of String Beans. — The German Black Wax is 
 
BEANS AND PEAS 363 
 
 the type of most of the yellow -podded varieties and 
 the progenitor of many; but the newer and more care- 
 fully selected sorts are likely to prove best in most 
 situations. Of these Golden Wax, Flageolet Wax, Yo- 
 semite Mammoth Wax, Valentine Wax and. Kefugee 
 Wax are best known. Green -podded snap beans are 
 not so popular, but find fair sale in some markets. 
 Of these Early Red Valentine, Extra Early Refugee and 
 Long Yellow Six Weeks are very good. 
 
 SJiell Beans. — The varieties most commonly grown for 
 dry shelled beans are White Marrowfat, Boston Pea, and 
 White Valentine. 
 
 The pole limas are very successful in certain lo- 
 calities, especially southward. Standard varieties are Early 
 Jersey, Dreer's Improved, King of the Garden, Ford's 
 Mammoth, and the Sievas. 
 
 The dwarf limas are of two general types, Bur- 
 pee's Bush Lima being the best known large sort used 
 shelled and green, and Henderson's Dwarf Lima being 
 the commonest type of the small lima used green or 
 dry. (Consult Bailey, Cornell Exp. Sta. Bulletins 87 and 
 115.; also N. Y., State Exp. Sta. Rpt. 1883, p. 235, and 
 Kans. Exp. Sta. Rpt. 1889, p. 133.) 
 
 Peas. Sow the same as beans, except that they may 
 be planted in earliest spring, even before frosts have 
 passed. 
 
 The most serious pests attacking garden peas are the 
 mildew and the pea weevil. The former can be treated 
 with some success by spraying with Bordeaux mixture. 
 The weevil may be killed by the same means suggested 
 for the bean weevil. 
 
 Specially selected extra early varieties are offered in 
 every seed catalogue. For the most part such sorts are 
 good. Peas grown carelessly in the garden for a few 
 years deteriorate greatly, and are not worth planting. 
 Extra early varieties of merit are Alaska, Nott's Excel- 
 
364 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 sior, American Wonder, Little Gem, and Premium Gem. 
 Second early varieties of general adaptability are Abun- 
 dance, Advancer, Heroine, and Horsford's Market Garden. 
 Late sorts and the so-called edible -podded sugar peas 
 are of very limited utility in amateur gardens. The 
 tall or standard sorts should be allowed to climb on 
 brush or chicken wire. The half -standards and dwarfs 
 may be planted in double rows, so that the plants tend 
 to hold each other up. 
 
 4. Brassicaceous Group — Cabbage, Kale, Cauliflower, etc. 
 
 In the northern states, these plants will all do best 
 when started early in hotbed, frame, or greenhouse, 
 — from the last of February to April— and transplanted to 
 the open ground May first to June first. Still, some per- 
 sons are successful in growing late cabbage, kale, etc., 
 by sowing the seeds in hills in the open ground where 
 the plants are to mature. It is best to transplant the 
 young plantlets twice, first from the seed-bed to boxes, 
 or frames, about the time the second set of true leaves 
 appears, placing the plants twenty-four inches apart each 
 way, and transplanting again to the open ground in 
 rows four to five feet apart, with plants two to four 
 feet apart in the row. If the plants are started under 
 cover they should be hardened off by exposure to light 
 and air during the warmer hours of several days pre- 
 ceding the final transplanting. 
 
 The most serious enemy of cabbage -like plants is the 
 root-maggot. See discussion of this insect on page 96, 
 Fig. 96. 
 
 The cabbage -worm (larva of the white butterfly shown 
 in Fig. 240) can be despatched with pyrethrum or kero- 
 sene emulsion. It must be treated very early, before 
 worm gets far into the head. 
 
 The club-root or stump-root, is a fungous disease, 
 
CABBAGES 365 
 
 for which there is no good remedy. Use new land, if 
 the disease is present. 
 
 Cabbages. Early Jersey Wakefield, Early York and 
 Early French Oxheart are best among extra early va- 
 rieties. For a medium early crop, Winnigstadt, All 
 Seasons, Succession, All Head, and Large Jersey Wake- 
 field are all good. For late crop, Danish Ball Head, 
 Late Flat Dutch and Large Late Drummond are valu- 
 able. Early Red Dutch Erfurt, Red Dutch Drumhead 
 
 240. Cabbage butterfly (female), parent of the cabbage-worm. 
 
 and Mammoth Rock Red, are good red cabbages. Among 
 the Savoys one might choose Perfection Drumhead, Early 
 Ulm, and Extra Early Paris, with a preference for 
 the earlier sorts. 
 
 There are many ways of storing cabbages for winter 
 and spring use, none of which are uniformly success- 
 ful. Upon this point T. Greiner writes as follows: "I 
 have heretofore piled a lot of cabbages cut from the 
 stump in a conical heap in the field, and covered them 
 with clusters of the outer leaves cut off with a piece 
 of the stump. The le'aves are carefully placed over the 
 heap in shingle fashion, so as to shed water. Cab- 
 bages thus piled and covered may be left out until 
 real winter weather sets in. But I find that slugs and 
 earthworms frequently infest the cabbages thus stored, 
 and do a good deal of damage. It might be well to 
 
866 
 
 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 place a solid floor of lime or salt upon the ground, 
 and then pack the cabbages upon this. If to be left 
 
 241. Suggestion for storing cabbages. 
 
 out after severe freezing has set in, one should put 
 additional covering, such as straw, corn-stalks or marsh 
 hay, over the whole heap. Mr. Burpee's little book, 
 ' Cabbage and Cauliflower for Profit, ' w^ritten by the 
 
CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS 
 
 367 
 
 noted cabbage -grower, F. M. Lupton, suggests the 
 following plan for early winter sales: 'Take the cab- 
 bages up with the roots on, and store in well-venti- 
 lated cellars, where they will keep till mid-winter. Or 
 stack them in some sheltered position about the barn, 
 placing one above the other in tiers, with the roots 
 inside, and covering deeply with seaweed; or if this 
 cannot be obtained, something like corn-stalks may be 
 used to keep them from the weather as much as possi- 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^^^■::y:mm 
 
 242. A good cauliflowei" head. Leaves trimmed off. 
 
 ble (Fig. 241). When thus stored, they may be ob- 
 tained any time during the winter when prices are 
 favorable . ' " 
 
 Cauliflowers, more imperatively than cabbages, de- 
 mand plenty of water and weather not too hot. When 
 they begin to head, the large leaves should be bent over 
 the inner part to whiten it. The earliest varieties may 
 often be grown in localities where cauliflowers succeed 
 only with difficulty. Extra- early Paris, Extra -early 
 
368 
 
 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 
 
 24;j. A good pluiit of Brussels Sprouts. 
 
 Dwarf Erfurt, and Early Snowball (Fig. 242), are good 
 early varieties. For late planting, choose Autumn Giant 
 and Lenormand Short Stem. 
 
 Broccoli is in some respects superior to cauliflower, 
 which it very much resembles. The early varieties with- 
 stand drought and ill usage better than cauliflower, and 
 
CABBAGE -LIKE PLANTS 369 
 
 are, on that aeeount, easier for the amateur to grow. 
 Purple Cape is the hardiest variety, and has the best 
 flavor when cooked, being much finer than cauliflower, 
 but its color is a drawback. The large late varieties, 
 and especially those of a biennial nature, may be avoided. 
 Cultivate in all respects like cabbage. 
 
 Brussels Sprouts may also be cultivated exactly like 
 cabbage. As nearly all varieties are for late use, and 
 are better after having been touched by frost, they may 
 be handled with the crop of late cabbage or with kale. 
 Paris Market is the best standard variety. Fig. 243 shows 
 a plant well furnished with the little heads, each an inch 
 or two in diameter. 
 
 Kale is also best for use after frost, or even when 
 kept into the winter or till spring. It may thus come in 
 with the later crop of cabbage, 
 being handled in exactly the gj, 
 same way. Dwarf Curled and 
 Tall Curled will please most 
 people best. Kale produces c\ 
 no dense head. The plant is 
 used for "greens." 
 
 CoLLARDS. This is a south- 
 ern development of the kale '-"^ 
 
 type, which is suitable to warmer 244. A good trellis for tomatoes 
 
 holding the vines apart and 
 climates and longer seasons. allowing all fruits to receive 
 
 It is ranker in growth and '''^^ ^"<^ "^^*- 
 
 coarser in foliage than the common kales. It is treated 
 
 precisely like cabbage or kale. Georgia Collards is the 
 
 variety mostly grown. 
 
 5. Solanaceous Groups — Tomato, Eggplant, etc. 
 
 These vegetables are all natives of southern zones, and 
 have not yet become so far acclimatized in the North as 
 not to need the benefit of our longest seasons. Plants 
 
 X 
 
370 
 
 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 245. Same variety of tomatoes grown on dry and good soil. On the 
 
 former (upper cnt) there was not sufficient moisture to cause 
 
 the fruit to fill out, and " rough " tomatoes were the result. 
 
 should be started early, about March 1, under glass. They 
 should be " pricked off," when the second leaves appear, 
 three or four inches, apart, into flats or boxes. These 
 boxes should be kept in a coldframe, to which an abun- 
 dance of light and air is admitted on warm, sunny days, 
 
TOMATOES AND EGGPLANTS 371 
 
 in order to harden them off. After all danger of frost is 
 past, and the garden soil is well warmed, the plants may 
 be finally transplanted. 
 
 Tomato i>lants should set two or four feet apart, ac- 
 cording to training, in rows six feet apart. Elaborate 
 systems of training are often discussed and illustrated, 
 but the simplest device which will hold the plants partly 
 off the ground is all that can be recommended to the 
 beginner. Very moderate pruning will sometimes succeed, 
 but systems of close pruning are to be adopted in garden 
 practice wnth caution. 
 _ There are four distinct classes of tomatoes, classified 
 on the basis of color of the ripe fruit, viz. : Reds, pinks, 
 whites or creamy yellows, and bright yellows. The 
 yellows are of little value. The creamy yellows, like 
 Golden Queen, are very good dessert fruits. The varie- 
 ties yielding dark red fruits are most popular. Of these 
 Matchless, Stone and Perfection may be safely recom- 
 mended, though there are many others of value. The 
 pink varieties are typified by Beauty, and by Dwarf 
 Champion, which is a plant of odd, dwarf habit, and well 
 suited to very small home gardens. The Cherry and Pear 
 tomatoes are often grown for preserving. (Consult Bailey, 
 Cornell Bull. 32, and other writings.) 
 
 The husk tomatoes {Physalis) sometimes offered in the 
 catalogues on account of their smaller stature, may be 
 treated more like peppers. 
 
 Eggplants are somewhat difficult to manage in the 
 North. It is a prime necessity that the plants shall 
 be vigorous and healthy at the time of transplanting to 
 open ground. Set two to three feet apart in rows three 
 and one half feet apart, and give plenty of fertilizer and 
 cultivation. New York Improved Large Purple is the 
 type of variety chiefly grown (Fig. 246), though some of 
 the smaller white-fruited sorts will doubtless give satis- 
 faction in the home garden. The plants must always 
 
372 
 
 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 be started indoors or under glass for the North. (Consult 
 Bailey, Cornell Bull. 26.) 
 
 Peppers may be handled like eggplants, although some 
 of the earlier varieties may be grown from seed sown in 
 
 V N 
 
 246. A good specimen of eggplant, ripening (in the Nortli) 
 two or three fruits. 
 
 the open ground at melon-planting time. Put plants one 
 and one-half to two feet apart; rows three and one half 
 feet apart. Bull Nose, Large Sweet Spanish, Procopp's 
 Giant, Golden Dawn and Ruby King are useful large va- 
 
CUCUMBERS AND MELONS 373 
 
 rieties for stuffing. Smaller varieties, like Chili, Bird's 
 Eye, Red Cherry and Japan Cluster furnish the most 
 pungency for seasoning. 
 
 6. Cucurhitaceous Group — Cucumber, Melon, Squash, etc. 
 
 All the members of this group are especially suited to 
 outdoor culture, but they are all very tender to frost. 
 Seeds must be planted somewhat shallow from early spring 
 to midsummer. For the earliest cucumbers and melons, 
 seeds are planted in frames. That is, each hill is enclosed 
 by a portable box frame about three feet square and usu- 
 ally having a movable sash cover. The cover is raised or 
 removed in warm days and the frame bodily taken away 
 when all danger of frost is past. In field culture, seeds are 
 planted an inch deep, four to six in a hill, with hills four 
 by six feet apart, these distances being varied slightly 
 according to location and variety. Fine cucumbers are 
 sometimes grown in hills surrounding a barrel in which 
 manure is placed to be leached out by successive waterings. 
 
 The omnipresent enemies of all the cucurhitaceous crops 
 are the little cucumber beetle and the large black ' ' stink 
 bug." Ashes, lime, or tobacco dust occasionally seem to 
 show some efficiency in preventing the ravages of these 
 insects, but the only reasonably sure immunity is in the 
 use of covers over the hills (Fig. 93) . These covers are 
 made by stretching mosquito netting over arcs of barrel 
 hoops or bent wires. If by some such means the plants 
 are kept insect -free till they outgrow the protection, they 
 will usually escape serious damage thereafter. 
 
 Cucumbers. The most popular type of this vegetable is 
 the White Spine, which has run into many sub-varieties 
 through diversities of cultivation and selection. The White 
 Spine varieties are excellent for pickles, for slicing, or 
 for forcing. For pickles, the smaller varieties, such as 
 Wethersfield, Chicago Pickle, Early Cluster, Early Frame, 
 
374 
 
 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 Parisian Prolific Pickle and Early Netted Russian are 
 best. For slicing, Long Green and Nichol Medium 
 Green may be added to White Spine. For use ripe, Giant 
 Pera and Giant White are popular in some places. 
 
 The Snake cucumber makes good pickles, but is chiefly 
 valuable as a curiosity. 
 
 West India Gherkins (Fig. 247) are thrifty and prolific, 
 and make good pickles if cut young. 
 
 MusKMELONS should be grown 
 on warm, sandy land. Soil and 
 location make very much dif- 
 ference with the quality. The 
 small green-fleshed netted varie- 
 ties, improperly called canteloupes 
 in many parts, are the favorites 
 for garden culture. Of these. 
 Early Netted Gem and Jenny Lind 
 are the standards. Hackensack is 
 a large spherical melon of fine 
 quality for home or market gar- 
 The Montreal Market is still a size larger, and 
 may be relied on for yield and quality. Banquet is a 
 fine, round, yellow-fleshed variety. Osage is an excellent 
 melon of high quality. There are many other fine melons 
 offered in almost every seed catalogue, and nearly every 
 neighborhood has some favorite local variety. 
 
 W^ATERMELONS are grown to perfection only in the 
 South, but, South and North, demand a warm soil and 
 exposure. There are several white or yellow-fleshed va- 
 rieties, but aside from their oddity of appearance they 
 have little value. A good watermelon has a solid, bright 
 red flesh, preferably with black seeds, and a strong pro- 
 tecting rind. Kolb Gem, The Jones, Boss, Cuban Queen 
 and Dixie are the best varieties in general cultivation. 
 
 Squash. Most of the squashes are especially liable to 
 the insect attacks mentioned on the last page. It is, there- 
 
 West India Gherkin. 
 
 den. 
 
SQUASHES AND PUMPKINS 
 
 375 
 
 fore, desirable to secure the most vigorous start possible 
 with the young plants. Among summer varieties, the 
 Patty-pan or Bush Scallop, Red and White, are well- 
 known. The Yellow Bush Summer Crookneek is one of 
 the most desirable for cooking. The Hubbard squash is 
 still the standard of winter sorts, followed by Marble - 
 head, Fordhook, Essex Hybrid and Boston Marrow, 
 Various Japanese types of squash (Fig. 248), are now 
 
 248. A Japanese sqiiash, several types of which are now in 
 cultivation in this country. 
 
 coming to be popular, and many of them are excellent 
 for both fall and winter use. 
 
 Pumpkins. The old-fashioned yellow Connecticut Field 
 pumpkin, which furnishes the basis of the New England 
 pumpkin pie, has never been superseded in its own 
 important line. The Quaker Pie pumpkin and certain 
 varieties of so-called "sweet pumpkins" have mostly a 
 local reputation and distribution. 
 
 LuFFA. The "Dishcloth Gourd" or the " Vegetable 
 
376 
 
 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 Sponge" is a euourbitaeeous fruit (Fig. 249), seeds of 
 which are now commonly sold by seedsmen. The fibrous 
 interior of the mature fruit is dried and used as a sponge. 
 
 7. Salad Plants and Poi-lier'bs. 
 
 These plants are all grown for their tender, fresh, suc- 
 culent leaves. It is, therefore, manifestly expedient that 
 they be grown in warm, mellow ground, well cultivated 
 and copiously watered. Such small plants as cress, corn 
 salad and parsley can be grown in small beds, or even 
 
 249. Luffa, or Dishcloth Gourd. 
 
 in boxes or pots ; but in a garden where space is not 
 too scant, they may be more conveniently managed in 
 rows, like peas or beets. This remark applies to all gar- 
 den crops. Nearly all the salad plants may be sown in 
 the spring, and from time to time throughout the summer 
 for succession. (Consult Waugh, Vermont Exp. Sta. 
 Bull. 54.) 
 
 Lettuce is a typical salad plant, and, unfortunately, 
 the only one well known in America. Seeds may be sown 
 early in drills, the rows being three to" three and one half 
 feet apart in the garden, or fourteen inches apart in the 
 bed. Several successive sowings should always be made, 
 
LETTUCE AND CRESS 
 
 377 
 
 for lettuce rapidly loses its freshness and crispness. 
 Golden Queen is a desirable early light- colored variety. 
 Boston Market is a favorite with many. Tennisball, 
 Black- seeded Simpson and Hanson are widely known. 
 New York is a fine, strong -growing variety. Of the Cos 
 
 250. Eudive tied up for blanching. 
 
 :^-'^^ 
 
 varieties, Trianon and Paris White Cos are best. These 
 are often blanched for market by earthing up about the 
 plants when they begin to head. 
 
 Cress is a name which applies to several very diverse 
 species of plants. The best for garden culture are Au- 
 stralian or Golden Cress, or Extra Curled, or American 
 Curled. These grow rapidly, and- are very fine. Upland 
 cress is a different plant, resembling water cress in taste. 
 Water cress may be easily grown almost anywhere that 
 living, shallow water is at command. The garden varie- 
 ties are sown in shallow drills, as already directed above. 
 
378 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 Corn Salad is less pungent than cress, but will not 
 prove so generally useful. It is cultivated precisely like 
 cress. Only one variety is offered by American seeds- 
 men. 
 
 Endive may be grown at almost any season of the year, 
 from early spring to late fall. In mild climates it may 
 also be sown in the fall, covered during winter, and 
 harvested at the first opening of spring. Sow in drills, 
 as directed for cress. The plants are best blanched. This 
 is done by tying up the outer leaves on a bright, clear 
 day (Fig. 250), or by covering the row with an inverted 
 trough of boards, like a V upside down. It is then best 
 to throw some earth against the trough to keep it cool. 
 For winter use, plants may be taken out of the rows 
 in fall, with a large ball of soil upon the roots, and 
 stored in a cellar, or in a tight coldframe till wanted. 
 White Curled is the best variety. Green Curled is hardier, 
 but more refractory in blanching. 
 
 Chicory is cultivated like endive, except that it is 
 not so good for successional sowings, but is better for 
 fall sowing and spring use. The plants are gi'own in 
 drills, and when blanched like endive, make a delecta- 
 able salad. The Large -rooted is the variety chiefly 
 grown in America, the roots being used as a substitute 
 for coffee. 
 
 Dandelion, when grown and blanched like endive or 
 chicory, makes a very acceptable salad. It is more often 
 used, however, as a pot-herb, that is, for "greens." 
 To secure it early in the spring for this purpose, fall 
 planting is necessary. The plants are then covered with 
 a clean mulch, which is removed at the earliest possi- 
 ble moment in spring. It is worth while to sow selected 
 seed. The Improved Large-leaved is a good variety. 
 
 Spinach is more commonly grown for a pot-herb 
 than any other plant. For early use it should be sown 
 in the fall, and the plants wintered under a clean mulch, 
 
SPINACH, AND THE LIKE 
 
 379 
 
 which is removed as early as possible in spring. But 
 it may he sown early in spring and in succession 
 through the summer. Norfolk Savoy- leaved, Large 
 Round -leaved Viroflay and Prickly are good varieties. 
 Victoria is a recent novelty 
 of real merit. New Zealand 
 is a very different plant ; 
 and though not so valuable 
 as the true spinach, adds 
 pleasing diversity to the 
 garden. (Consult Kinney, 
 R. I. Exp. Sta. Bull. 41.) 
 
 Mustard. Almost all the 
 mustards are good for greens, 
 though white mustard is usu- 
 ally best. Chinese mustard 
 is also valuable . They should 
 be sown in drills, three to 
 three and one-half feet apart 
 and covered with a half inch 
 of soil. The ease with which 
 they may be grown, and the 
 abundance of herbage which 
 they yield, mark their special 
 utility. (Consult Bailey, 
 Cornell Exp. Sta. Bull. 67.) 
 
 Chard, or Swiss Chard, 
 is simply a development of 
 the beet species character- 
 ized by large, succulent leaf- 
 stalks instead of enlarged roots. The leaves are very 
 tender and make "greens" much like young beets. 
 They are cultivated exactly like beets. Only one variety 
 is offered by most seedsmen in this country, though in 
 France and Germany several varieties are grown (Fig. 251) . 
 
 Sorrel may be sown in spring, in drills sixteen inches 
 
 Swiss chard. 
 
380 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 apart in beds, or three to three and one half feet apart 
 in rows. After the plants are well established they 
 should be thinned to ten to twelve inches apart in the 
 rows. They are perennial, and may be kept growing in 
 the same place for several years. Broad -leaved French 
 is the most popular variety. 
 
 Parsley. Sow very early in the spring, in shallow 
 drills fourteen inches apart, and thin out to six inches 
 apart in the rows. For very early spring use, seed may 
 be sown in the fall and the plants wintered under a light 
 mulch. Extra Dark Moss Curled and Dwarf Extra Curled 
 are desirable varieties, though any others will be found 
 satisfactory. 
 
 Rhubarb, while, strictly speaking, neither a salad 
 plant nor a pot-herb, should be mentioned here. It may 
 be grown from seed by sowing early in spring in fine, 
 warm soil. But the best way to start it in a family gar- 
 den is from the divided roots. These may be set two by 
 three feet apart, in a corner of the garden, where they 
 may remain undisturbed for several years. Victoria is 
 perhaps the best named variety. 
 
 8. Miscellaneous Vegetables 
 
 Celery is by no means so difficult to grow as many 
 people think. The seeds should be sown early by sprink- 
 ling them thinly on top of a pot, pan or box of good, 
 fine soil, and sifting a very little earth over them. Put 
 them in a moderately warm room, greenhouse or hotbed 
 to germinate. About the time the second leaves put out 
 the plants should be "pricked off" into flats or boxes, 
 being set about one and one -half to two inches apart. 
 As the young plantlets begin to grow they should be 
 "hardened-off" by uncovering the hotbed during the 
 day, or otherwise exposing the plants to sun and air. 
 After the plants have made a growth of four to six 
 
CELERY 
 
 381 
 
 
 inches, after the weather is bright and warm, in May 
 or June, and after the soil has been thoroughly pre- 
 pared, the ground may be marked off for rows three to 
 four feet apart, and the plants set five inches apart in 
 the row. They need to be liberally watered and fertilized, 
 but fermenting manures must be avoided. The rows also 
 need the most careful weeding and hoeing, especially at 
 first. 
 
 When the plants are nearly full grown, the blanch- 
 ing may be begun. The older method consists in drawing 
 up a quantity of loose soil about the 
 plants, holding each one in the hand 
 as it is embanked, and being careful 
 to keep the earth from falling into 
 the celery head. A more modern 
 way is to set up boards on either side 
 of the row, fastening them in place 
 so as to keep out the sunshine. With 
 the self -blanching sorts, which are 
 now mostly grown, this method is 
 easy of practice. Another method 
 consists in setting plants of self- 
 blanching varieties eight or ten 
 inches apart each way in solid blocks, 
 fertilizing and watering heavily, and depending upon 
 the shading of the crowded plants to do the necessary 
 blanching. 
 
 Varieties most popular are White Plume, Pink Plume, 
 Golden Self-blanching, Giant Pascal and Golden Heart. 
 (Consult Greiner's "Celery for Profit," and Kinney's 
 Bulletin 44, Rhode Island Experiment Station.) 
 
 There are various methods of storing celery. (Consult 
 Horticulturist's Rule-Book, 4th ed., and Bulletins, Cornell 
 Exp. Sta.) It may be taken up in late fall and planted 
 close together in trenches (Fig. 252), and then covered 
 with boards; or wider trenches or pits may be made, 
 
 252. Storiug celery 
 in a trench. 
 
382 
 
 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 and a temporary shed constructed over the transplanted 
 plants (Fig. 253). 
 
 Celeriac, which is occasionally grown for home use, 
 may be cultivated in the same way as celery, except 
 that it does not need blanching. It is usually earthed 
 up slightly, however, some time before harvesting. The 
 edible portion is the turnip-like root (Fig. 254). 
 
 Asparagus plants may be grown from seed, but it is 
 easier and cheaper to buy them for small gardens. 
 Good strong two or three -year-old plants should be set 
 in wide open furrows six inches deep, three feet apart 
 in the rows, with rows five feet apart. The furrows are 
 
 
 253. Storing celery in a pit. 
 
 then filled in slowly during summer cultivation, till the 
 surface is entirely level. For the first two or three 
 years, and occasionally thereafter, a heavy dressing of 
 well -rotted manure should be worked into the surface 
 in spring. Dressings with salt are often advised, but 
 their value has not been fully ascertained. 
 
 It is not advisable to cut the bed until the plants are 
 three years set, and the cutting should always cease in 
 June or by the first of July. 
 
 In the fall all the old canes should be cut back and 
 
ASPARAGUS— CORN 
 
 383 
 
 burned. There is no great difference among varieties, 
 but some of the newer ones, like Columbian Mammoth 
 White or Barr Mammoth, have the presumption in their 
 favor. 
 
 In cutting asparagus, the knife should be inserted ver- 
 tically (A, Fig. 255), so that the crowns will not be cut 
 
 - --I.-' a.sV '1/1, v\i>A. 
 
 
 i -^ 
 
 ^^ 
 
 254. Celeriac. 
 
 or injured. In the position B, the knife may do much 
 mischief. 
 
 Sweet Corn. Plant early sweet corn five or six grains 
 to the hill, hills three feet apart, rows three and one- 
 half to four feet apart, as soon as 'danger of frost is 
 over. Cover and press down solidly with the hoe. Cory 
 Early, Early Minnesota and Crosby Early are among the 
 
384 
 
 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
 
 first to give good eatable ears. For the main crop, 
 Stowell Evergreen, Ne Plus Ultra and Country Gentle- 
 man may be relied upon. 
 
 Okra, or Gumbo. This delicious esculent thrives in 
 heat and drought, but is more difficult to grow in the 
 cooler, moister seasons of our northeastern states. It 
 has the same geographical adaptations as the watermelon. 
 Sow the seed in drills at corn -planting time, in rows 
 three and one -half feet apart, covering to a depth of one 
 inch and pressing down the soil firmly. Thin the plants out 
 
 255. Good and poor methods of cutting asparagus. 
 
 to a foot or eighteen inches in the row. Cut the edible 
 pods before they get stringy. White Velvet is the most 
 desirable variety. 
 
 Martynia. Seed may be planted in late spring in hills 
 three feet apart and rows three and one -half feet apart. 
 Cultivate like tomatoes. The pods for pickling should 
 be cut when quite small. 
 
 Artichokes have never become so popular in this 
 country as to have produced a long list of varieties. 
 Large Green Globtj is most commonly offered by seeds- 
 men. The plant is allied to the thistles, and the edible 
 
ARTICHOKE— SWEET HERBS 385 
 
 part is the great unopened flower-head. It is perennial, 
 and may be propagated by suckers, but it is also grown 
 from seed. Sow the seed in beds and the second spring 
 transplant the seedlings to permanent quarters, letting 
 them stand in hills three to four feet apart each way, 
 with three or four plants in a hill. 
 
 The Jerusalem artichoke is a subterranean tuber, and 
 is most grown for pig forage. 
 
 9. Sweet Serbs 
 
 Every family garden should have a border permanently 
 set aside for sweet herbs. A strip of land four feet wide 
 and fifty feet long will ordinarily be ample, allowing the 
 growing of squares or clumps of all the leading kinds 
 of sweet, aromatic and condimental plants. One end or 
 section of the border should be reserved for the peren- 
 nial species, and the remainder for the annuals (those 
 that must be re-sown each year). 
 
 The perennial sweet herbs may be propagated by 
 division, although they are usually grown from seeds. 
 The second year — and sometimes even the first year — the 
 plants are strong enough for cutting. Even with the 
 perennial kinds, it is advisable to renew or re-sow the 
 plants every few years, to prevent the beds from run- 
 ning out. The common perennial sweet herbs are: Sage, 
 lavender, peppermint, spearmint, hyssop, thyme, marjoram, 
 balm, catnip, rosemary, horehound, fennel, lovage, winter 
 savory, tansy, wormwood, costmary. 
 
 The commoner annual species (or those which are 
 treated as annuals) are: Anise, sweet basil, summer 
 savory, coriander, pennyroyal, caraway (biennial), clary 
 (biennial), dill (biennial), sweet marjoram (biennial). 
 
 Y 
 
Section VI 
 
 SEASONAL REMINDERS 
 
 Although seasons and conditions vary so much 
 m different years and different places that no 
 hard and fast advice can be given for the per- 
 forming of gardening operations, yet brief hints 
 for the proper work of the various months may 
 be useful as suggestions and reminders. Most of 
 the older gardening books were arranged wholly 
 on the calendar method, — giving specific direc- 
 tions for each month in the year. We have now 
 accumulated sufficient fact and experience, how- 
 ever, to enable us to state principles ; and these 
 principles can be applied anywhere, — when sup- 
 plemented by good judgment, — whereas mere 
 rules are arbitrary and generally useless for any 
 other condition than that for which they were 
 specifically made. 
 
 The plan ting -table on page 387 is reprinted, by 
 permission, from '^American Gardening," Febru- 
 ary 22, 1896. It presents much advice in small 
 space. 
 
 The Monthly Calendars are compiled from files 
 of the "American Garden" of some years back, 
 
 (386) 
 
KITCHEN -GARDEN PLANTING TABLE 
 
 A. Guide to the Proper Times for Sowing op Various 
 
 Seeds in Order to Obtain Continuous 
 
 Succession of Crops 
 
 VEQETABLES 
 
 la tiM 
 
 KITCHEN QARDEN. 
 
 Artichoke, American 
 French . 
 Asparagus . . 
 Beans, Bush . 
 
 " Pole and Lima 
 
 Beets 
 
 Borecole, Kale . 
 Broccoli ... 
 Brussels Sprouts . 
 Cabbage, all sorts 
 
 Cardoon 
 
 Carrot . . 
 Cauliflower 
 Celeriac . . 
 Celery . . 
 
 Chicory 
 
 Collards 
 
 Corn, Field . . . 
 
 " Sweet 
 
 Pop ... 
 
 " Salad 
 
 Cress 
 
 Cucumber ... 
 Egg Plants . . . 
 
 Endive 
 
 Kohlrabi .... 
 Leek 
 
 6 
 
 Lettuce . . . 
 Mangel . . 
 Melon 
 Mushroom 
 Mustard . . . 
 Nasturtium 
 Okra .... 
 Onion .... 
 Parsnips . . 
 Parsley . . . 
 Peas .... 
 Pepper . . . 
 Potatoes . . 
 Pumpkin . . 
 Radish . . . 
 Rutabaga . 
 Salsify . . . 
 Seakale . . . 
 Spinach . . . 
 Squash . . . i . 
 
 Tomato 6 
 
 Turnips ..... I . 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 4 4 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 Explanation of 5lg:n8 Used 
 In the Table. 
 
 O To be sown Id opeo srouod 
 without transplanting. 
 Plants have to b« thinned out, 
 given proper distance. 
 
 1. Sow on seed bed to the 
 garden, and transplant tbeace 
 to permanent place. 
 
 2. Make two sowings In 
 open ground during the 
 month. 
 
 3. Make thr«e sowings (n 
 open ground during the 
 month. 
 
 4. Start in greenhouse or 
 hot-bed, and plant out »» 
 soon as the ground Is In 
 ifood shape, and weather per- 
 mits. 
 
 5. Sow In open ground h% 
 
 6. To be grown only in hot- 
 bed or greenhouse. 
 
 7. Sow In cold frame, keep 
 plants there over winter with 
 a little protection ; plant oot 
 in spring as soon as the ground 
 can be worked. 
 
 6. To be sown In open 
 (ground, and protected with 
 litter OTer winter. 
 
 9. Plant In frame. When 
 cold weather seta In, cover 
 with eash and straw matJi. 
 Plants will be ready for use 
 in December and January. 
 
 10. Plant in cellar, bam or 
 under benches In greenhouae. 
 
 11. Plant outdoors on pre- 
 pared beds. 
 
 13. Sow every week In grees' 
 house or frame, to have a good 
 iccesslon. 
 
 K.B.— For last planting of 
 Beans, Sweet Com, KoblrabK 
 Peas and Radishes, or even 
 Tomatoes, take the earliest 
 varieties, junt the same as are 
 used for first planting. 
 
 The late sowings of Salsify 
 I intended to remain undl»- 
 turbed over winter. RooU 
 from these sowings will, the 
 next year, attain a siie double 
 ^thatOflUiUly seen 
 
256. BirdVeye .dew of the seasons in which the various garden products 
 may be m their prime From "Popular Gardening." 
 
ADVICE FOR JANUARY 389 
 
 wlien the author had editorial charge of that 
 magazine. The advice for the North was written 
 by T. Grein'^r, LaSalle, N. Y., well known as a 
 gardener and author. That for the South was 
 made by H. W. Smith, Baton Rouge, Louisi- 
 ana, for the first nine months, and it has been 
 extended for this occasion to the months of 
 October, November and December by F. H. 
 Burnette, Horticulturist of the Louisiana Experi- 
 ment Station. 
 
 1. FOR TEE NORTH 
 
 JANUARY 
 
 Cabbage plants in frames need free airing whenever the 
 temperature is above the freezing point, or so long as 
 the soil of the bed is not frozen. Snow, in that case, 
 should be removed soon after its fall. As long as the 
 soil is frozen, the snow can safely be left on for a num- 
 ber of days. Cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce seed should 
 be sown at intervals to secure plants for extra -early sales 
 or setting. A month later they will be ready to transfer 
 to boxes, which should go to the coldframe and be given 
 protection by mats or shutters. 
 
 Coldframes jnust be well ventilated on warm, sunny 
 days ; leave the sashes off as long as is possible without 
 injury to the plants. Keep the soil in a friable condition, 
 and look carefully to any possible places where water can 
 stand and freeze. If the frames seem too cold, bank up 
 around them with coarse manure. 
 
 Hotbeds. — Look up and repair the sashes. Save the 
 horse-manure from day to day, rejecting dry litter, and 
 piling up the droppings and urine -soaked bedding in thin 
 layers to prevent violent heating. 
 
 Lettuce in frames treat as advised for cabbage plants. 
 
 Pruning should now be considered. Perhaps it is best 
 to prune fruit-trees in March or April, but grapes and 
 currants and gooseberries oan be pruned now. January 
 and February are good months in which to prune peach 
 
390 SEASONAL REMINDERS 
 
 trees. Thin out the peach trees well, taking care to 
 remove all the dead wood. If you have much pruning to 
 do in apple, pear or plum orchards, you will save time by 
 utilizing the warm days now. Study well the different 
 methods of pruning. Never let an itinerant pruner touch 
 your trees until you are satisfied that he understands his 
 business. 
 
 Tools can now be inspected and repaired, and any new 
 ones that are needed made or ordered. 
 
 fJ:bruary 
 
 Cabbage. — Sow seed of Jersey Wakefield in flats filled 
 with light, loamy soil the last week of this month. Sow 
 thinly, cover lightly, and place the boxes in a gentle hot- 
 bed or any warm, sunny situation. When the plants are 
 strong, transplant them into flats 1% inches apart each 
 way. As growth begins, gradually expose them to the 
 open air on all favorable occasions. Late in March re- 
 move them to a coldframe, and properly harden them off 
 before setting them in the open ground. 
 
 Celery. — We urgently advise every one who has a garden, 
 large or small, to make a trial of the new celery-culture. 
 You need, first, good plants. Get some seed of White 
 Plume or Golden Self-Blanching, and sow it thickly in 
 flats filled with fine loam. Cover by sifting a thin layer of 
 sand or fine soil over it, and firm well. Keep in a moder- 
 ately warm place, watering as needed, until plants appear. 
 If you have a number of flats, they may be placed on top 
 of one another. At the first sign of plant-growth, bring 
 the flats gradually to the light. When the plants are IX 
 or 2 inches high, transplant them into other flats, setting 
 them in rows 2% inches apart, the plants half an inch 
 apart in the rows. Then set the flats in a coldframe 
 until the plants are large enough to plant out in the open 
 ground. 
 
 Hotbeds for raising early plants should be made this 
 month. Always break the manure up flne and tread it 
 down well. Be sure to put enough in the center of beds, 
 so that there will be no sagging. Fresh manure of hard- 
 worked and well-fed horses, free from dry litter, is best. 
 An addition of leaves used for bedding will serve to pro- 
 duce a more moderate but more lasting heat. Sheep - 
 manure may also be added to the horse-manure, should 
 there be a scant supply of the latter on hand. 
 
FEBRUARY AND MARCH IN THE NORTH 391 
 
 Onions. — We urgently advise giving the new onion - 
 culture a trial. For seed, buy a packet or an ounce of 
 Prizetaker, Spanish King, White Victoria, or some other 
 large kind of globe onion. Sow the seed in flats, in a 
 hotbed, or in a greenhouse late in the month, and trans- 
 plant the onions to the open ground as soon as the latter 
 is in working .condition. Set the plants in rows one foot 
 apart and three inches apart in the row. Seed will be scarce 
 this season, that of white varieties especially so. 
 
 Plums. — Make a thorough inspection of all plum and 
 cherry trees, wild and cultivated, for plum -knot. Cut 
 and burn all the knots found. 
 
 Bhubarb. — Grive the plants in the garden a heavy dress- 
 ing of fine old compost. If you wish a few early stalks, 
 place kegs or boxes over some of the plants, and heap 
 over them some heating horse -manure. 
 
 MARCH 
 
 Beets. — A few seeds may be sown in the hotbed. 
 
 Cabbage, cauliflower and celery seeds may be sown for 
 the early crop. 
 
 Eggplants. — Seeds should be sown. Take care that the 
 young plants are never stunted. 
 
 Grafting may be done in favorable weather. Cherries 
 and plums must be grafted early. Use liquid grafting- 
 wax in cold weather. 
 
 Hotbeds may be made at any time, but do not grow 
 impatient about the work, for there will be cold weather 
 yet. Clean, fresh manure is necessary, and a layer two 
 feet thick should be tramped hard. When once started 
 and the seeds sown, do not let the beds get too hot. 
 Give them air on fine days and give the seedlings plenty 
 of water. Use two thermometers — one to test the atmos- 
 phere and the other the heat of the soil. 
 
 Lettuce should be sown in the hotbed for an early crop. 
 
 Onion seed for the new onion-culture may be sown at 
 the close of the month. 
 
 Peas. — Sow now, if the ground can be worked. ■>. 
 
 Peppers may be sown late in the month. ^- 
 
 Potatoes kept for seed must not be allowed to sprout. 
 Keep them in a temperature near freezing point. Rub off 
 the sprouts from potatoes kept for eating, and pick out 
 all decayed specimens. 
 
392 SEASONAL REMINDERS 
 
 Spinach. — Sow some seeds for an early crop. 
 Tomato seeds may be sown in the hotbeds. 
 
 APRIL 
 
 Artichokes. — Sow the seeds for next year's crop. A 
 deep, rich, sandy loam is best. Fork in a dressing of well- 
 rotted manure around the old plants. 
 
 Asparagus. — Spade in some good manure in the bed, and 
 give the soil a thorough working before the crowns start. 
 Sow some seeds in the open ground for young plants for a 
 new bed. 
 
 Beans. — Limas may be started on sods in a hotbed or a 
 eoldframe towards the last of the month. 
 
 Beets. — The ground should be prepared and the seed sown 
 for beets for cattle as soon as the weather will permit. 
 Put them in before planting corn. They will stand con- 
 siderable cold weather, and should be planted early to get 
 a start of the weeds. 
 
 Blackberries should be pruned, the brush drawn off, piled 
 and burned. If it is .necessary to stake them, try a wire 
 trellis, the same as for grapes, putting on one wire two 
 and a half feet high. The young plants should be dug 
 before the buds start. 
 
 Cahhage seed may be sown in the open ground, in cold- 
 frames or in pans or boxes in the house. Early varieties 
 should be started at once. Cabbages like a rich and 
 heavy loam, with good drainage. Give them all the 
 manure you can get. 
 
 Cauliflower seeds may be sown toward the last of the 
 month. They should never have a check from the time the 
 seed is sown until harvested. 
 
 Carrot. — Sow the seed of early sorts like Early Forcing 
 as soon as the ground can be worked. 
 
 Celery. — Plan to grow celery by the new method. Plenty 
 of manure and moisture are required to do this. Sow the 
 seed in light, rich soil in the house, hotbed, eoldframe or 
 open ground. Transplant the plants once before setting 
 them in the field. 
 
 Cress. — Sow early and every two or three weeks. Water- 
 cress should be sown in damp soil or in streams. The 
 outer edges of a hotbed may also be utilized. Cress, is a 
 very profitable crop when rightly handled. 
 
 Cucumher seeds may be sown on sods in the hotbed. 
 
 Eggplant. — Sow in the hotbed, and transplant when two 
 
APRIL IN THE NORTH 393 
 
 inches, high to other beds or jDots. They must have good 
 care, for a check in their growth means all the difference 
 between profit and loss. 
 
 Lettuce. — Sow the seeds in the hotbed and in the open 
 ground as soon as it can be worked. Plants sown a month 
 ago should be transplanted. 
 
 Leek. — Sow the seeds in the open ground in drills six 
 inches apart and one inch deep, and when large enough 
 thin to one inch in the row. 
 
 Muskmelon. — Plant some seeds in sods in the hotbed. 
 
 Parsnip. — Dig the roots before they grow and become 
 soft and pithy. The seeds may be sown as soon as the 
 ground is dry enough to work. 
 
 Parsley. — Soak the seeds in warm water for a few hours 
 and sow in the open ground. 
 
 Peas. — Sow the seeds as soon as the ground can be 
 worked. They will stand considerable cold and trans- 
 planting also. Time may be gained by sowing some seeds 
 in moist sand in a box in the cellar and transplanting 
 when well sprouted. Plant deep in light, dry soil, cover 
 an inch at first, and draw in the earth as the vines grow. 
 
 Potatoes. — Plant early on rich soil free from blight and 
 scab. For a very early crop, the potatoes may be sprouted 
 before planting. 
 
 Peppers. — Sow the seeds in the hotbed or in the boxes 
 in the house. 
 
 Radish seeds may be sown in the open ground or in the 
 hotbed and the crop harvested from there. The small, 
 round varieties are best for this purpose. 
 
 Strawherries. — Give a good, thorough cultivation between 
 the rows and then remove the mulch from the plants, 
 placing it in the rows, where it will help to keep the weeds 
 down. 
 
 Salsify. — Sow the seeds as soon as the ground can be 
 worked. Give the same care and cultivation as for carrots 
 or parsnips. 
 
 Spinach seeds must be sown early, and then every two 
 weeks for a succession. Thin out and use the plants be- 
 fore they send up flower -stalks. 
 
 Squash. — Hubbards and summer squashes may be started 
 on sods in the hotbed. 
 
 Tomato. — Sow in the hotbed or in shallow boxes in the 
 house. Try some of the yellow varieties; they are the 
 finest flavored of any. 
 
394 SEASONAL REMINDERS 
 
 MAY 
 
 Beans. — The bush sorts may be planted in the open 
 ground, and Limas in pots or sods in a coldframe or spent 
 hotbed. They require a long season to mature, and should 
 be started early. 
 
 Beets. — Sow for a succession. Transplant those started 
 under glass. 
 
 Cabbages always do best on a freshly -turned sod, and 
 should be set before the land has had time to dry after 
 plowing. The secret of success in getting a large yield 
 of cabbage is to start with rich land and put on all the 
 manure obtainable. Clean out the hog yard for this pur- 
 pose. 
 
 Cucumbers. — Sow in the open ground toward the last 
 of the month. A few may be started as advised for Lima 
 beans. 
 
 Lettuce. — Sow for a succession, and thin to four inches 
 in the rows. 
 
 Melons. — Plant in the open ground toward the end of 
 the month. It is useless to plant melons and other cucur- 
 bitaceous plants until settled weather has arrived. 
 
 Onions. — Finish planting and transplanting, and keep all 
 weeds down, both in the seed-bed and the open field. 
 
 Peas. — Sow for a succession. 
 
 Squashes. — Plant as advised for melons and cucumbers. 
 They require a rich, well-manured soil. 
 
 Strawberries. — Remove the blossoms from newly-set 
 plants. Mulch with salt or marsh hay or clean straw or 
 leaves those that are to bear. Mulching conserves- mois- 
 ture, keeps the berries clean, and prevent weeds from 
 growing. 
 
 Sweet corn. — Plant early and late varieties, and by 
 making two or three plantings of each, at intervals, a 
 succession may be kept up all summer and fall. Sweet 
 corn is delicious, and one can hardly have too much of it. 
 
 Tomatoes. — Set some early plants by the middle of the 
 month or earlier, if the ground is warm and the season 
 early and fair. They may be protected from the cold by 
 covering with hay, straw, cloth or paper, or even with 
 earth. The main crop should not be set until the 20th 
 or 25th, or until all danger of frost is over. However, 
 tomatoes will stand more chilly weather than is ordinarily 
 supposed. 
 
JUNE IN THE NORTH 395 
 
 JUNE 
 
 Asparagus. — Cease cutting and allow the shoots to grow. 
 Keep the weeds down and the soil well stirred. An appli- 
 cation of a quick commercial fertilizer or of liquid manure 
 will be beneficial. 
 
 Beans. — Sow the wax sorts for succession. As soon as 
 a crop is off pull out the vines and plant the ground to 
 late cabbage, turnips or sweet corn. 
 
 Beets. — Transplant in rows one to three feet apart and 
 six inches in the row. Cut off most of the top, water 
 thoroughly, and they will soon start. 
 
 ^ Cabbage and Cauliflower. — Set plants for the late crop. 
 Rich, newly-turned sod and a heavy dressing of well-rotted 
 manure go a long ways toward assuring a good crop. 
 
 Celery. — Set the main crop, and try the new method of 
 setting the plants seven inches apart each way, if you have 
 rich land and can irrigate, but not unless these conditions 
 are present. 
 
 Cucumbers may yet be planted, if done early in the month. 
 
 Curraiits. — Spray with Paris green for the currant worm 
 until the fruit sets. Hellebore is good, but it is difficult to 
 get it of good strength. 
 
 Lettuce. — Sow for succession in a moist, cool, and par- 
 tially shaded spot. The seed does not germinate well in 
 hot weather. 
 
 Lima beans should be hoed frequently and started on the 
 poles, if they are contrary. 
 
 Melons. — Cultivate often and watch for the bugs. A 
 screen of closely woven wire or mosquito netting may be 
 used to cover the vines, or tobacco dust sifted on thickly. 
 
 Onions. — Keep free from weeds and stir the ground fre- 
 quently, and especially after every rain. 
 
 Squashes. — Keep the ground well cultivated and look out 
 for bugs. (See melons.) Layer the vines and cover the 
 joints with fresh soil, to prevent death of the vines from 
 the attacks of the borer. 
 
 Strawberries. — Plow up the old bed that has borne two 
 crops, as it will usually not pay to keep it. Set the ground 
 to late cabbage or some other crop. The young bed that 
 has borne the first crop should have a thorough cultivation 
 and the plow run close to the rows to narrow them to the 
 required width. Pull up or hoe out all weeds and keep 
 the ground clean the rest of the season. This applies with 
 equal force to the newly -set bed. A bed can be set late 
 
396 SEASONAL REMINDERS 
 
 next month from young runners. Pinch off the end after 
 the first joint, and allow it to root on a sod or in a small 
 pot set level with the surface. 
 
 Tomatoes. — For an early crop train to a trellis, pinch off 
 all side shoots, and allow all the strength to go to the main 
 stalk. They may also be trained to poles, the same as 
 Lima beans, and can be set closer if grown in this way. 
 Spray with the Bordeaux mixture for the blight, keep the 
 foliage thinned and the vines off the ground. 
 
 Turnips. — Sow for an early fall crop. 
 
 JULY 
 
 Beans. — Sow the wax sorts for a succession. 
 
 Beets. — Sow Early Egyptian or Eclipse for young beets 
 next fall. 
 
 Blackherries . — Head back the young canes to three 
 feet, and the laterals also when they get longer. They 
 may be pinched with the thumb-nail and finger in a 
 small patch, but this soon makes the fingers sore, and 
 where there are many bushes to go over it is better 
 to use a pair of shears or a sharp sickle. 
 
 Cabbage. — Set plants for the late crop. 
 
 Corn. — Plant sweet corn for succession and late use. 
 
 Cucumbers. — It is late to plant, but they may be put 
 in for pickles if done before the Fourth. Cultivate those 
 which are up, and keep an eye open for bugs. 
 
 Currants. — Cover a few bushes with muslin or burlap 
 before the fruit ripens, and you can eat currants in Au- 
 gust. Use hellebore, rather than Paris green, for the 
 last brood of currant worms, and apply it as soon as 
 the worms appear. There is no danger in using it, 
 even if the currants are ripe. 
 
 Lettuce seed does not germinate well in hot weather. 
 Sow in a moist, shaded position for a succession. 
 
 Lima beans. — Hoe them frequently, and give assistance 
 to get on the poles. 
 
 Melons. — Watch for bugs, and apply tobacco dust freely 
 around the plants. Keep them well cultivated. A light 
 application of bone meal will pay. 
 
 Peaches, pears and plums should be thinned to secure 
 fine fruit and to help sustain the vigor of the tree. 
 Ripening the seed is what draws on the tree's vitality, 
 and if the number of seeds can be reduced one -half 
 or two -thirds, part of the strength required to ripen 
 
JULY— SEPTEMBER IN THE NORTH 397 
 
 them will go into perfecting the fruit and seeds left, 
 and add greatly to the fine appearance, flavor and quality 
 of the edible portion. 
 
 Radislies. — Sow the early kinds for a succession, and 
 toward the end of the month the winter sorts may be 
 put in. 
 
 Rasx)herries . — Pinch back the canes to two and one- 
 half feet, the same way as given for blackberries. 
 
 Squashes. — Keep the ground well stirred, and use to- 
 bacco dust freely for bugs and beetles. Cover the joints 
 with fresh soil, and apply the kerosene emulsion for 
 the vine -borer. 
 
 AUGUST 
 
 Beets. —A last sowing of the early table sorts may be 
 made for a succession. 
 
 Cabbage. — Harvest the early crop, and give good culti- 
 vation to the main crop. Keep down the bugs and worms. 
 
 Celery. — The latest crop may yet be set. Earlier set 
 plants should be handled as they attain sufficient size. 
 Common drain tiles are excellent for blanching if one has 
 them, and must be put on when the plants are about half 
 grown. Hoe frequently to keep the plants growing. 
 
 Onions. — Harvest as soon as the bulbs are well formed. 
 Let them lie on the ground until cured, then draw to the 
 barn floor or some other airy place and spread thinly. 
 Market when you can get a good price, and the sooner the 
 better. 
 
 Tomatoes may be hastened in coloring by being picked 
 just as they begin to color and placed in single layers in a 
 coldframe or hotbed, where they can be covered with sash. 
 
 SEPTEMBER 
 
 In many parts of the North it is not too late to sow rye, 
 or peas, or corn, to afford winter protection for orchards. 
 As a rule, very late fall plowing for orchards is not ad- 
 visable. Now is a good time to trim up the fence -rows 
 and to burn the brush piles, in order to destroy the breed- 
 ing places of rabbits, insects and weeds. Cuttings of 
 gooseberries and currants may be taken. Use only the 
 wood of the current year's growth, making the cuttings 
 about a foot long. Strip off the leaves, if they have not 
 
398 SEASONAL REMINDERS 
 
 already fallen, tie the cuttings in large bundles, and bury 
 them in a cold cellar, or in a sandy, well-drained knoll; 
 or if the cutting-bed is well prepared and well drained, 
 they may be planted immediately, the bed being well 
 mulched upon the approach of winter. September and 
 October are good months in which to set orchards, provided 
 the ground is well prepared and well drained, and is not 
 too much exposed to sweeping winds. Wet lands should 
 never be set in the fall; and such lands, too, are not fit 
 for orchards. Strawberries may still be set; also, bush 
 fruits. 
 
 Seeds of various flowers may now be sown for winter 
 bloom, if one has a conservatory or good window. Petu- 
 nias, phloxes and many annuals make good window plants. 
 Quicker results are secured, however, if border plants of 
 petunias and some other things are dug up just before frost 
 and placed in pots or boxes. Keep them cool and shaded 
 for a couple of weeks, cut down the tops, and they will 
 send up a vigorous and floriferous growth. Winter roses 
 should now be in place in the beds or in pots. 
 
 There will be odd days when one can go to the woods 
 and fields and collect roots of wild herbs and shrubs for 
 planting in the yard or along the unused borders of the 
 garden. 
 
 OCTOBER 
 
 Asparagus. — Old plantations should now be cleaned off, 
 and the tops removed at once. This is a good time 
 to apply manure to the beds. For young plantations, 
 which may be started now as well as in spring, select a 
 warm soil and sunny exposure, and give each plant plenty 
 of room. We like to set them in rows five feet apart 
 and at least two feet apart in the rows. 
 
 Cabbages.— The heads that will winter best are those 
 just fully formed, not the over-ripe ones. For family 
 use, bury an empty barrel in a well -drained spot, and 
 fill it with good heads. Place a lot of dry leaves on top, 
 and cover the barrel so that it will shed rain. Or, pile 
 some cabbages in a corner of the barn floor and cover 
 them with enough straw to prevent solid freezing. 
 
 Cabbage -Plants started from seed last month, prick 
 out in coldframes, putting about 600 to the ordinary sash 
 and setting them quite deep. 
 
OCTOBER AND NOVEMBER IN THE NORTH 399 
 
 Chicory. — Dig what is wanted for salad, and store it 
 in sand in a dry cellar. 
 
 Endive. — Blanch by gathering up the leaves and tying 
 them lightly at the tips. 
 
 General Garden Manageyyient. — The only planting that 
 can be done in open ground at this time is restricted 
 to rhubarb, asparagus, and perhaps onion -sets. Begin 
 to think about next year's planting, and to make arrange- 
 ments for the manure that will be needed. Often you 
 can purchase it now to good advantage, and haul it while 
 the roads are yet good. Clean up and plow the ground 
 when the crops are harvested. 
 
 Lettuce. — Plants to be wintered over should be set in 
 frames like cabbage -plants. 
 
 Onions. — Plant sets of Extra Early Pearl, or some other 
 hardy kind, in the same fashion as in early spring. They 
 are likely to winter well, and will give an early crop 
 of fine bunching onions. For the North, fall sowing of 
 onion-seed cannot be recommended. 
 
 Parslcji. — Lift some plants and set them in a cold- 
 frame four or five inches apart, or in a box filled with 
 good soil, and place in a light cellar or under a shed. 
 
 Pears. — Pick the winter sorts just before there is dan- 
 ger from freezing. Put them in a cool, dark place, where 
 they will neither mold nor shrivel. To hasten ripening, 
 they can be brought into a warm room as wanted. 
 
 Bhubarb. — If plants are to be set or replanted this 
 fall, enrich the ground with a superabundance of fine 
 old stable -manure, and give each plant a few feet of 
 space each way. In order to have fresh pie -plant in 
 winter, dig up some of the roots and plant them in good 
 soil in a barrel placed in the cellar. 
 
 Sweet potatoes. — Dig them when ripe after the first 
 frost. Cut off the vines, and turn the potatoes out with 
 a potato -fork or plow. Handle them carefully to pre- 
 vent bruising. Only sound, well-ripened roots are in 
 proper condition to be wintered over. 
 
 NOVEMBER 
 
 Asparagus. — Manure before winter sets in. 
 
 Beets. — They keep best in pits. Some may be kept 
 in the cellar for use during winter, but cover them with 
 sand or sods to prevent shriveling. 
 
400 SEASONAL REMINDERS 
 
 Blachherries. — Cut away the old wood and mulch the 
 roots. Tender sorts should be laid down and lightly 
 covered with soil at the tips. 
 
 Carrots. — Treats as advertised for beets. 
 
 Celery. — Dig up the stalks, leaving the roots on, and 
 stand them close together in a narrow trench, tops just 
 even with the ground-level. Gradually cover them with 
 boards, earth and manure. Another way is to set them 
 upright upon the floor of a damp cellar or root-house, 
 keeping the roots moist and the tops dry. Celery can 
 stand some frost, but not exposure to less than 22° Fahr. 
 The stalks intended for use before Christmas may in 
 most localities be left outdoors, to be used as wanted. 
 Should cold weather set in early, they will need covering 
 in some way. 
 
 Orchard Management. — Young trees should have a mound 
 of earth raised around the stem as a support, and pro- 
 tection against mice, etc. Small and lately planted trees 
 must have stakes set besides them, and be tied to the 
 stakes with a broad band. Apple and pear trees may 
 yet be planted. Trim superfluous or unhealthy wood out 
 of the old orchards. 
 
 Spinach. — Cover the beds lightly with leaves or litter 
 before winter sets in. 
 
 Strawberries. — Soon it will be time to mulch the beds. 
 Provide marsh-hay, or other coarse litter, free from 
 weed-seeds, and when the ground has frozen an inch 
 or so, spread it all over the surface thinly and evenly. 
 
 DECEMBER 
 
 Cahbages. — Plants in coldframes should be aired freely 
 and kept cool. Heads intended for winter and spring use, 
 if not yet taken in or protected from severe freezing, must 
 now be cared for. Do not cover them too deeply, nor store 
 them in too warm a place. 
 
 CaiTOte.— Store them in cellars or pits. If in cellars, 
 keep the roots covered with sand or sod, to prevent wilting. 
 
 General Garden Management.— BQg\n now to make your 
 plans for next season's work. Carefully study up the mat- 
 ter of rotation, also that of feeding your crops in the most 
 effective and economical manner. Eepair frames, sashes 
 and tools. Clear up the garden and premises. Underdrain 
 where needed. Beds for early vegetables should be thrown 
 
JANUARY IN THE SOUTH 401 
 
 up in high, narrow ridges, with deep furrows between. 
 This will enable you to plant them several days or weeks 
 earlier than otherwise. 
 
 Kale. — In very exposed or northern locations cover it 
 lightly with coarse litter. 
 
 0)1 ions. — For winter storage select only well -ripened, 
 perfectly dry bulbs. Store them in a dry, airy place, not 
 in the cellar. They may be spread out thinly on the floor, 
 away from the walls, allowed to freeze solid, and then 
 covered several feet deep with hay or straw. 
 
 Parsnips. — Take up some roots for winter use and store 
 them in sand in the cellar. 
 
 Strawberry -beds should be given their winter covering of 
 marsh-hay, etc., as soon as the ground is frozen solid. 
 
 2. FOB THE SOUTH 
 
 JANUARY 
 
 Annuals. — All kinds of hardy annuals and perennials, 
 such as alyssum, snapdragon, foxglove, hollyhock, phlox, 
 poppy, pansy, lobelia, candytuft, sweet pea, Chinese pink, 
 sweet-william, larkspur, foliage cinerarias, centaurea, mig- 
 nonette, and many others of the same class may be sown. 
 Most of them should be sown thinly, and where they are 
 intended to flower, as they transplant poorly in this 
 latitude. 
 
 Cannas, caladiums, perennial phloxes, chrysanthemums and 
 verbenas may be taken up, divided and re -planted. 
 
 Roses may be planted in quantities. Let the ground in- 
 tended for them have a thorough dressing of manure. 
 Occasionally a plant can be taken up and divided. The 
 hybrid varieties may now be layered. This is done as fol- 
 lows : Select a shoot and bend it flat upon the ground ; 
 hold it in both hands, having a distance of about six inches 
 between them. Keep the left hand firm, and with the 
 right give the shoot a sharp twist. Now cover it with 
 four inches of earth and tie the free end to an upright stake. 
 
 Asparagus beds should be liberally manured. New beds 
 should now be made. Set the plants six inches deep. 
 Sow seed now. 
 
 Beets and all hardy vegetaHes (carrots, parsnips, turnips, 
 ruta-bagas, kohlrabi, spinach, lettuce, herbs, etc.,) may now 
 be sown, planted or transplanted. 
 
 z 
 
402 SEASONAL REMINDERS 
 
 Cahdage plants should be set out on heavily -manured 
 ground. Sow seed of Early Summer for a later supply. 
 
 Fruits. — If possible, all planting and transplanting of 
 fruit-trees and grape-vines should be finished this month. 
 Pruning should be completed as soon as possible, and 
 preparation made to protect the blossoms of tender fruits 
 next month. Set out strawberry -plants, and during dry 
 weather run the cultivator through all old beds that are 
 at all weedy. It is a good plan, where practicable, to 
 mulch the beds. Here, pine -straw can be had plentifully 
 for the purpose. Examine peach trees for borers. Rasp- 
 berries and blackberries should be pruned now if the 
 work is not already done. Cuttings of Le Conte pears, 
 Marianna plums, grape-vines and pomegranates should be 
 put in at once if they have heretofore been forgotten. 
 Root-grafting should be progressing rapidly; this is best 
 time for this important work. 
 
 Onion seeds. — Sow at once, and plant sets as soon as 
 possible. 
 
 Peas. — Sow early and late varieties. The late varieties 
 succeed best if sown at this season. 
 
 Seasonable ivork. — This is a good month to obtain canes 
 for staking peas, tomatoes and beans, hauling manure, 
 making repairs and examining tools, etc. As the fall crop 
 is harvested the land should be prepared for another crop. 
 Tile-draining is now in order. Prepare frames to cover 
 with canvas for use next month. 
 
 Sweet potatoes. — A few may be bedded in a frame from 
 which to obtain " draws " for settting out about March 15. 
 
 Tomatoes, eggplayits and peppers. — Sow now on a slight 
 hotbed. When the plants come up all the air possible 
 should be given during the day. They can be raised 
 without heat, but at this season this plan is likely to be 
 attempted only by the skillful. 
 
 FEBRUARY 
 
 Asters, cannas, daJilias, heliotropes, lobelias, petunias, py- 
 rethrum, ricinus, salvias and verbenas are best sown in a 
 coldframe where they can have some protection from 
 hea\'y rain. 
 
 Cannas should be transplanted now. 
 
 Chrysanthemums must be planted in well-manured ground 
 in a position where water can be readily supplied to them. 
 
FEBRUARY IN THE SOUTH 403 
 
 DaliJms may be taken up and divided as soon as they 
 begin growth. 
 
 Gladiolus and tuberose hulhs should he planted now. It 
 is a good plan to extend the planting through March and 
 April. 
 
 Pansies. — Plant them out in the beds where they are to 
 flower. 
 
 Boutine worTx. — Sodding should now proceed rapidly. If 
 sods cannot be obtained the ground may be planted with 
 Bermuda grass. Plant small pieces of the grass a foot 
 apart and water them if the weather is dry, and they will 
 grow rapidly. Hedges should be cleared up and put in 
 good shape. All planting of trees and shrubs should be 
 finished this month. All pruning of trees, etc., must be 
 done early in the month. Young roses cannot be set too 
 early in February. They thrive best when planted in fall. 
 Roll the drives and repair them where necessary. The 
 lawn will now require constant care, and the mower should 
 be used before the grass becomes 1% inches high. 
 
 Bush-beans can be planted February 14. On alluvial 
 land it is best to plant them on slight rises as a protection 
 against the rains which sometimes occur toward the end 
 of the month. If frost should threaten just as the beans 
 begin to peep out, cover them an inch deep with the plow 
 or hand cultivator. Sow Early Mohawk first, and at the 
 end of the month sow Early Valentine; a week later sow 
 the wax varieties. 
 
 Cabbage. — Sow early varieties, such as Early Summer, 
 Early Drumhead and Early Flat Dutch. Etampes, Extra 
 Early Express and Winnigstadt sown for small heads in 
 the order named have done very well with me. The 
 earlier- sown plants should be transplanted as often as 
 convenient. Should worms cause trouble, dust the plants 
 with a mixture of one part of pyrethrum powder to six of 
 fine dust. 
 
 Carrots, celery, beets, endive, kolil-rabi, onion-sets, parsley, 
 parsnips, radishes and purple- toj) turnips must now be sown. 
 
 Corw.— Plant Extra Early Adams, Yellow Canada, Stowell 
 Evergreen and White Flint toward the middle of the 
 month. Sow again a week later, and again after another 
 week. If the first two sowings fail, the last one will give 
 the early crop. 
 
 Cucumbers. — Sow and protect with small boxes during 
 cold days and nights, or sow in pots or on sods. Protect 
 the seedlings with sashes or canvas, and plant them out late. 
 
404 SEASONAL REMINDERS 
 
 Lettuce. — Sow seeds and transplant the plants on hand. 
 This crop requires a soil well supplied with plant-food. 
 
 Melons. — Plant seeds in the same manner as advised 
 for cucumbers. 
 
 Okra. — Sow seeds on sods and set out the plants next 
 month. 
 
 Peas. — Sow seeds of a number of varieties. 
 
 Peppers and eggplants, if not sown last month, should 
 be sown now. Sow them under glazed sashes and keep 
 close. When the plants appear give some air, and increase 
 it according to the weather. If a large number of plants is 
 required the sowing may be delayed until next month. 
 Should flea-bugs trouble you, use plenty of pyrethrum 
 powder . 
 
 Potatoes, Irish. — The main crop should be planted as 
 early as possible. Standard varieties are Early Rose, 
 Peerless and Burbank. 
 
 Potatoes, sweet, can now be bedded and protected with 
 canvas, or a row or two of whole tubers may be planted 
 for ''draws" and vines. 
 
 Straivherries. — Run the cultivator through them at least 
 once every three weeks ; if they are to be mulched collect 
 the necessary material. Strawberries planted in February 
 seldom yield much of a crop. 
 
 Tomatoes in frames should be given all the air and light 
 possible and plenty of room; if protected with canvas, 
 don't allow the plants to crowd. 
 
 MARCH 
 
 Beans. — Sow all varieties for a fall crop. As soon as 
 the plants appear the cultivator must be run through the 
 crop, and kept going as often as necessary. 
 
 Corn. — Continue to plant; and we recommend harrow- 
 ing the patch as soon as the young corn appears. It is 
 generally planted in hills three or four feet apart, but 
 better results will be obtained by planting in drills and 
 leaving one stalk every twelve inches. 
 
 Cucumhers. — Sow in hills four feet apart, using a liberal 
 quality of seed to each hill. When the plants come up 
 thin them to about six in the hill. When the plants be- 
 gin to get rough leaves pull out one or two more from each 
 hill. Striped cucumber-beetles are sometimes very numer- 
 
MARCH AND APRIL IN THE SOUTH 405 
 
 ous, and in order to get a stand of plants it is necessay 
 to go through the patch early every morning and sprinkle 
 all the hills with air-slaked lime. 
 
 Eggplants. — Toward the end of the month the plants 
 growing in frames can be transplanted to their fruiting 
 quarters. Seed can be sown outside after March 15; 
 sooner if a warm and sheltered spot is selected. 
 
 Lettuce. — Sow in drills, and when the plants are large 
 enough thin to a foot apart. If transplanted at this sea- 
 son they often go to seed. 
 
 Okra. — A sowing can be made now, but the main plant- 
 ing had best be deferred until after March 15. Sow in 
 drills three feet apart and thin the plants to eighteen 
 inches apart in the drills. 
 
 Peas. — Early varieties may be sown; it is now too late 
 to sow tall -growing kinds. 
 
 Peppers. — Treat as advised for eggplants. 
 
 Potatoes, Irish. — It is not too late to plant them, but 
 the sooner they are planted the better. The crop planted 
 in February should be harrowed as soon as the shoots 
 begin to come up, and when the rows can be fairly seen 
 the cultivator must be set to work to keep down weeds 
 and grass. 
 
 Potatoes, sweet. — If slips or vines are at hand they may 
 be planted late in the month for the earliest tubers. The 
 whole potatoes may be planted on a ridge to yield vines 
 for later planting. 
 
 Squashes. — Plant seed in hills six feet apart. The di- 
 rections for planting melons can be followed. The same 
 remarks apply to pumpkins and other vegetables of this 
 kind. 
 
 Tomatoes. — About March 15 the frame plants can go to 
 their fruiting quarters. It is necessary to use some judg- 
 ment in this matter, as they may be killed or injured by 
 an April frost. Seed may be sown in the open ground 
 for plants for late fruiting. Set the plants four feet 
 apart each way. 
 
 Strawherries. — The mulching of beds or rows should be 
 no longer delayed, if clean and plentiful fruit is wanted. 
 
 APRIL 
 
 Alternantheras should go out now. 
 
 Annuals of all kinds can still be sown where they are to 
 flower, as they transplant with difficulty at this season. 
 
406 SEASONAL REMINDERS 
 
 Coleuses. — Plant out in the beds now. Cuttings root 
 readily, simply requiring to be stuck in. 
 
 Beans of all kinds can be planted, Limas especially. 
 
 Beets. — Make another sowing of these. 
 
 Cabbage plants obtained from spring sowings should be 
 set out as soon as fit. The ground requires to be very rich 
 to carry this crop. 
 
 Cucumbers. — These can be sown anywhere now. 
 
 Corn. — Make a sowing to yield roasting ears to come in 
 after that sown last month. 
 
 Okra. — Sow in drills three or four feet apart. 
 
 Peas. — Making a sowing of early varieties for the last 
 time. 
 
 Squash {bush) and pumpMn can now be planted. 
 
 Tomatoes should be got out to their fruiting quarters as 
 early in the month as possible. Let them be set at least 
 four feet apart each way. 
 
 MAY 
 
 Beans. — Plant a few more bush and pole beans. 
 
 Celery may now be commenced with. The bed or box 
 needs plenty of water, and should be shaded from sun. 
 
 Lettuce requires careful handling to encourage it to ger- 
 minate. It is best sown in a box and kept shaded and 
 moist. 
 
 Melons, cucumbers, squashes and pumpkins can be sown. 
 
 Radishes. — Sow the yellow and white summer varieties. 
 
 Remarks. — It is a constant struggle with weeds through- 
 out this month, and the cultivator and plow are ever 
 going. As the land becomes vacant sow corn or plant 
 sweet potatoes— draws or vines. Sow some late Italian 
 cauliflower. Let the orchard have constant and thorough 
 cultivation, and remove all unnecessary growth from the 
 trees as soon as they appear. Be always on the lookout 
 for borers. Keep the strawberries as free of grass and 
 coco, or knob-grass, as possible. 
 
 JUNE 
 
 Beans. — All kinds may now be sown. 
 Catdiflower . — Sow the Italian kinds. 
 
 Corn.— Make a planting at the beginning of the month 
 and again at the end, 
 
JUNE AND JULY IN THE SOUTH 407 
 
 Cucumbers. — Plant a few more hills. The plants at this 
 season must be given plenty of water. 
 
 Endive. - Sow and attend to the tying up of the plants 
 that are of sujffieient size. 
 
 Melons. — Sow for a succession a few more water and 
 muskmelons. 
 
 Okra can still be sown. 
 
 Radishes. — Sow the summer varieties now. 
 
 Squashes and pumpTcins may yet be sown. 
 
 Sweet poiaio vines may now be set out in quantities. 
 
 Tomatoes. — About the middle of the month sow for the 
 fall crop. 
 
 JULY 
 
 Beans. — Bush and pole beans can be planted towards 
 the end of the month. 
 
 Cabbage and cauliflower may now be sown, but the 
 main sowing should be deferred until next month. 
 
 Carrots. — A sowing should be made. 
 
 Celery. — Sow and transplant what plants there may 
 be on hand. 
 
 Cucumbers. — These can be sown now for pickling. 
 
 Endive. — Transplant and sow. 
 
 Grapes should be kept well tied to trellis and unneces- 
 sary growth removed, so that the wood may have the 
 chance of becoming thoroughly ripened. If the cultiva- 
 tor and plow are not used judiciously a second growth 
 will be started, which is not desirable. 
 
 Lettuce. — The seed requires to be sprouted before being 
 sown, and if the sowing is done on a dry day the 
 drills should be watered. 
 
 Radishes. — Sow the summer kinds. 
 
 Strawberries. — Keep the beds clear of weeds and grass. 
 
 Tomatoes. — Make a sowing early in the month, or 
 what is much better, take cutting from jplants still in 
 bearing. , 
 
 Turnips. — Sow a few after a shower towards the end 
 of the month. 
 
 Remarhs. — Much cannot be done this month, as the 
 weather is hot and dry, but the opportunity should not 
 be lost for killing weeds and preparing for the plant- 
 ing season, which is now rapidly drawing near. 
 
408 SEASONAL REMINDERS 
 
 AUGUST 
 
 Artichokes, — Seed of the Green Globe can be sown now 
 and large plants obtained by spring. The seed-bed re- 
 quires to be shaded. 
 
 Bush hearts, heets, pole deans, carrots, celery, endive, kohl- 
 rabi, lettuce, mustard, Black Spanish ayid Rose China 
 radishes, parsley, turnips, ruta-hagas, and salad j^l^nts of all 
 kinds may now be sown. The seed should be sown on 
 small ridges, proportionate to the kind of plants, for level 
 culture is not successful in the vegetable garden in this 
 section. 
 
 Broccoli should be more cultivated, and is hardier than 
 the cauliflower. Many cannot tell the difference between 
 the two. Sow now. 
 
 Cabbages must be sown by the middle of the month. 
 Make the ground very rich and shade the seed-bed, keep- 
 ing it moist during the whole of the time. 
 
 Cauliflower should also be sown. 
 
 Potatoes, Irish, should be planted by the middle of the 
 month, if possible. Plant only those that have sprouted, 
 and instead of planting on top of the ridge set in the fur- 
 row and cover two inches deep ; as the potatoes grow, work 
 more soil down to tliem. 
 
 Potatoes, sweet. — Vines may still be set out, with pros- 
 pects of harvesting a fair crop. 
 
 Salsify. — Sow now or early next month. 
 
 Shallots. — Plant them now. 
 
 Squash. — Bush kinds can be planted now at any time. 
 
 Tomatoes. — If short of plants, cut off good-sized limbs 
 from bearing plants and plant them deep. Keep them 
 moist, and they will root in a few days. Do this just be- 
 fore it rains. 
 
 SEPTEMBER 
 
 Annuals of the hardy class may be sown this month ; the 
 following list will assist in making a selection : Calliopsis, 
 candytuft, calendulas, canterbury bells, columbine, corn- 
 flower, daisies, forget-me-nots, gaillardia, godetia, lark- 
 spur, Limnanthes Douglasii, mignonette, pansies, Phlox 
 Drummondii, primroses, poppies of all kinds, Saponaria 
 Calabrica, Silene pendula, sweet-williams and sweet peas. 
 
 Bulbs. — Study the catalogues and make out your wants, 
 for it is nearing planting time. 
 
SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER IN THE SOUTH 409 
 
 Lilies. — If success is required of the St. Joseph's or 
 Virgin lily {L. candidum), it must be planted right away. 
 
 Perennials and biennials should be sown early this month. 
 They have two good growing months ahead of them yet to 
 make considerable progress. The seed-bed will require 
 shade during the middle of the day until the young plants 
 come up; frequent weedings will be required, as coco has 
 not yet quit growing, and winter weeds are now putting in 
 an appearance. 
 
 Remarks. — All plants used for salad purposes can be sown 
 this month. The ground between the rows of growing 
 crops should be kept in a nice, friable condition. Vege- 
 table seeds of all kinds should always be sown on slight 
 ridges on all but very sandy soils. If the seed is sown on 
 a level bed, as practiced at the North, the ground will 
 become as hard as a turnpike road should a heavy rain 
 occur; and should this shower come along before the plants 
 are up, a crust a quarter of an inch deep will be formed, 
 and the plants will never see daylight. Sown on a ridge 
 they come all right, [as the water gradually drains away, 
 leaving the top of the ridge nice and soft. 
 
 OCTOBER 
 
 Ml spring floimer seeds should be sown in boxes, or trays 
 in the conservatory, and all spring bulbs should be planted. 
 The hyacinth, narcissus, tulip and anemone, ranunculus 
 and various lily bulbs, will bloom in good season planted 
 at this time. The bedding plants should be carefully 
 watched, so that any attack of aphis could be treated im- 
 mediately. Sweet peas may be planted the first of this 
 month, although they are commonly sown in September. 
 A rich spot should be selected for them. This is the time 
 to make the new lawn. The soil should be thoroughly 
 stirred and well pulverized, mixing in a good dressing 
 of commercial fertilizer, or if one prefers it, a mixture 
 which may be made at home, consisting of cotton seed 
 meal, acid phosphate and sulphate of potash, at the rate 
 of 1,000 lbs., 300 lbs., and 100 lbs. respectively, per acre. 
 A rich, well-rotted compost, as a top dressing, would also 
 be highly beneficial. Roses pruned late in September or 
 early this month will produce fine winter blooms. 
 
 In the garden this is a busy month; some of the winter 
 vegetables are growing, and others should be sown. The 
 
410 SEASONAL REMINDERS 
 
 bud artichokes should be separated and set fully three feet 
 apart. Onions may still be sown in the early part of the 
 month, and shallots should be divided and set. Some beans 
 may be risked, and English peas sown for winter crop. A 
 few cauliflowers may be tried and cucumbers planted in pots 
 for the hotbeds next month. The following vegetables 
 should be sown: Carrots, corn salad, chervil, Brussels 
 sprouts, broccoli, beets, endive, kohl-rabi, kale, lettuce, 
 leeks, mustard, parsley, parsnip, radish, roquette, spinach, 
 Swiss chard, salsify. Some cabbage and a few cauliflowers 
 should be added to the list. 
 
 Turnips should be sown for succession every two weeks 
 until April or May. The celery should be kept growing and 
 banking up commenced. This is an excellent time to plant 
 the new strawberry bed. Make the bed rich with well- 
 rotted manure and select good, healthy sets. The Michel's 
 Early and Cloud are probably the most popular varieties 
 for general planting, and should be set in alternating rows. 
 
 NOVEMBER 
 
 Flower seeds and hulhs may be planted this month of 
 the same varieties as in October. Cuttings of all the 
 herbaceous plants should be made and potted, for use 
 in the house and for the borders next season. The cold- 
 frames should also be put in order. Some of the bulbs 
 for winter forcing should be selected and potted. One 
 of the best Louisiana gardeners recommends the follow- 
 ing treatment: Select good, strong bulbs and plant them 
 in rich, light soil, in five inch pots, covering them about 
 half an inch. Water well and bury the pots six or 
 eight inches deep in the ground, leaving them there 
 about five weeks, when the bulbs will be found to be 
 well rooted. From this time gradually expose to the 
 light, and they will soon put forth blooms. 
 
 The same vegetaMcs may be sown as for October, 
 and the late cabbage seed planted. The Flat Dutch and 
 Drumhead strains are prime favorites. New sowings of 
 peas, turnips, mustard and radishes should be made, 
 and the hotbeds prepared and set out to cucumbers. 
 Too much care can not be taken that the manure should 
 be in the best condition possible, so that a good supply 
 of heat can be depended upon. The cucumbers planted 
 last month will be ready now for setting in the hotbeds, 
 and a winter crop forced. 
 
DECEMBER IN THE SOUTH 411 
 
 Orchard and vineyard planting. — This is the time to 
 prepare land. That on which a late crop of cow -peas 
 has grown is well suited for the purpose, and should 
 be plowed deeply and well worked over. Towards the 
 last of the month it should be cultivated again, in 
 order to be ready for the trees next month. 
 
 DECEMBER 
 
 Lawns and yards need watching this month, and at- 
 tention should be paid to the old leaves and fall 
 rubbish, which makes the yard look untidy. A good 
 place for the leaves is the compost heap. Hedges 
 should be put in shape and the surface drains kept 
 open. Shrubs and roses should be pruned for an early 
 supply of flowers. The Camellia Japonicas are now in 
 bloom, and care should be taken that the small branches 
 are not torn off, instead of being cut properly. Many 
 of these most beautiful of southern ornamental trees 
 have been ruined by careless plucking of flowers. 
 
 Garden and orchard. — Many of the fall vegetables may 
 be sown this month and others sown for a succession. 
 Peas, spinach, roquette, radishes, lettuce, endive, and 
 some Early York cabbage should also be sown. In the 
 old spent hotbeds, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants may 
 be started ; there will not be enough heat to hurry them, 
 and good, strong stocky plants will be secured if care 
 is taken. Irish potatoes may be risked, should there be 
 a favorable time for planting during the latter part of 
 the month. Usually they are planted in January. The 
 chances are about equal should they be planted late this 
 month. Nuts of all kinds, both for budding and other- 
 wise, should be planted. Some of the best Louisiana 
 pecans are said to come true from seed, and may be 
 sown where they are intended to grow. 
 
INDEX 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Aconite, Winter 272 
 
 Alliaceous plants 360 
 
 Alonsoa 257 
 
 Amaranthus 252 
 
 Ammoniacal copper carbonate . 100 
 
 Andromedas 217 
 
 Animals, injuries by 103 
 
 Anise 385 
 
 Annuals 255 
 
 Apple 308 
 
 Apple-scab 312 
 
 Apricot 323 
 
 Aquatics 242 
 
 Aralia 253 
 
 ^Artichoke 384 
 
 i,- Asparagus 382 
 
 Asters 257 
 
 Bagging grapes 335 
 
 Balm 385 
 
 Bamboo 290 
 
 Banana 330 
 
 Banks 181 
 
 Bartonia 258 
 
 Basil 385 
 
 Bavarian garden 352 
 
 Beans 361 
 
 Bedding 241, 243 
 
 ; Beets 353 
 
 Bordeaux mixture 99 
 
 Borders 142, 217 
 
 Blackberries, protecting 63 
 
 Blackberry 339 
 
 Blight of pear 316 
 
 Brachycome 258 
 
 Brassicaceous plants 364 
 
 Broccoli 368 
 
 Brussels Sprouts 36D 
 
 PAGK 
 
 Bryonopsis 263 
 
 Bulbs 267 
 
 Burdock 5 
 
 Burnette, F. H., Calendars by . 389 
 
 Burpee, book by 366 
 
 Cabbage maggots 96 
 
 Cabbages 365 
 
 Calendars 386 
 
 Calliopsis 258 
 
 Campanulas 285 
 
 Canker-worm 92 
 
 Cannas 253 
 
 Caraway 385 
 
 Cardiospermum 265 
 
 Carpet-bedding 140, 243 
 
 i^Carrots 355 
 
 Castor oil plant 254 
 
 Catnip 385 
 
 ► Cutworms 93 
 
 Cauliflowers 367 
 
 Celeriac 382 
 
 Celery 380 
 
 I- Cellars for fruit 306, 307 
 
 Cement 195 
 
 Chard 379 
 
 Cherry 323 
 
 Chicory 378 
 
 Chionodoxa 272 
 
 Climbing plants 213, 214, 235, 
 
 263, 291 
 
 Chives 361 
 
 Chrysanthemums 258, 288 
 
 City lot, plants for 168 
 
 Clarkia 259 
 
 Clary 385 
 
 Clematis 236, 293 
 
 Coboea 265 
 
 (413) 
 
414 
 
 INDEX 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Coldframes 71 
 
 Collards 369 
 
 Columbine 284 
 
 Conifers 216, 225-234 
 
 Convallaria 272, 282 
 
 Convolvulus 265 
 
 Copper carbonate 100 
 
 Coreopsis 258 
 
 Coriander 385 
 
 Corn 383 
 
 Corn Salad 378 - 
 
 Costmary 385 
 
 V Covering plants 60 
 
 Cress 377 
 
 Crocus 270 
 
 Curbs 183, 189 
 
 '. Cucumbers 373 
 
 Cucurbitaceoiis plants 373 
 
 Cnrculio 318 
 
 Currants 340 
 
 Curves 186 
 
 Daffodil 271 
 
 Dahlia 275 
 
 Dandelion 378 
 
 Dewberry 339 
 
 Dibbers 41 
 
 Dill 385 
 
 Discloth Gourd 875 
 
 Diseases 88 
 
 Dolichos 265 
 
 Donnell, Webb 352 
 
 Draining 12 
 
 Draining streets 191 
 
 Drives 184 
 
 Dwarf fruits 304 
 
 Eecremocarpus 265 
 
 Edgings 251 
 
 Eggplant 371 
 
 Endive 378 
 
 Enriching land 114 
 
 Eranthis 272 
 
 Erythronium 282 
 
 Eschscholtzia 259 
 
 / Evergreens 216, 225, 234 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Falconer, book by 353 
 
 Falconer, quoted 144 
 
 Fences 183 
 
 Fennel 381 
 
 ^Fertilizers 114 
 
 Fig 333 
 
 Filling about trees 185 
 
 Flower-beds 136, 142, 241 
 
 Flower-border 142 
 
 Flower-garden 136, 142, 144 
 
 Flowers 138, 144, 241 
 
 Forcing G7 
 
 Forcing-box 69 
 
 Forcing-hill 67 
 
 Forcing-house 83 
 
 Forsythias 213 
 
 Frames 71 
 
 Fungi 88 
 
 Fruit-plantation 302 
 
 Fumigating 97 
 
 Fundamentals of landscape 
 
 gardening 154 
 
 Gaillardia 559 
 
 Galanthus 271 
 
 Gall on grape 334 
 
 Galls 91 
 
 Gilia 259 
 
 Gladiolus 274 
 
 Godetia 259 
 
 Goff , quoted 96 
 
 Gooseberries 342 
 
 Gourd 375 
 
 Grading 177, 200 
 
 Grafting-wax 108 
 
 i' Grape 332 
 
 V' Grass for lawns 201 
 
 Grasses, hardy 290 
 
 Greiner, T., calendars by 389 
 
 Guards for trees 103 
 
 Gumbo 384 
 
 Gutter 196 
 
 Hand-box 69 
 
 Harrows 20 
 
 Heeling-in 58 
 
INDEX 
 
 415 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Hedges 214 
 
 Hellebore 99 
 
 '.Keeping fruit 307 
 
 Herbaceous perennials . 238, 278, 291 
 
 Hicks, moving trees 47 
 
 Hitching posts 104 
 
 Hitching to a tree 109 
 
 Hoes 24 
 
 Hop 265 
 
 Horehound 385 
 
 Horse, hitching 109 
 
 ^'Horse-radish 359 
 
 Hotbeds 75 
 
 Humulus 265 
 
 Husk tomato 371 
 
 Hyacinth 270 
 
 Hyssop 385 
 
 Insects 88, 93 
 
 Ipomoea 265 
 
 Jonquil 271 
 
 June-grass for lawn 201 
 
 Kainit 118 
 
 Kale 3C9 
 
 Kalmias 217 
 
 Kerosene emulsion 99 
 
 King, book by 7, 116 
 
 Kitchen garden 348 
 
 Labels 109 
 
 Lavender 385 
 
 Land, enriching 114 
 
 — preparing the 7 
 
 Lawn 132, 139 
 
 V — making 199 
 
 Laying down plants C2 
 
 Leek 3G1 
 
 Lettuce 376 
 
 Leguminous plants 361 
 
 Lilies 272 
 
 Lily-of-the-valley 272, 282 
 
 Lima beans 363 
 
 Lodeman, book by 100 
 
 London purple 98 
 
 Long, quoted 217 
 
 Lovage 385 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Lombardy 151 
 
 Luffa 375, 376 
 
 Lupton, qixoted 367 
 
 Maggots in cabbage 96 
 
 Maize 254 
 
 Manures 114 
 
 Maps and plans 195 
 
 Marigold 261 
 
 Marjoram 385 
 
 Markers 35 
 
 Martynia 384 
 
 Mass-beds 251 
 
 Mathews, quoted 142 
 
 Mats 86 
 
 Maurandya 265 
 
 Melons 374 
 
 Mice 105 
 
 Michigan, list for 220 
 
 Mimulus 261 
 
 Mint 385 
 
 Moisture, saving 7 
 
 Morning-glory 265 
 
 Mowing lawns 204 
 
 Moving trees 45 
 
 Mulching 59 
 
 Muskmelons 374 
 
 Mushrooms 353 
 
 Mustard 379 
 
 Narcisstis. 270 
 
 Nasturtium 263, 266 
 
 Nectarine 323 
 
 Nemophila 261 
 
 Nitrogen 116 
 
 Nozzles 102 
 
 Okra 384 
 
 Old-fashioned gai-den 144 
 
 Olive 329 
 
 /Onion 360 
 
 Orange 325 
 
 Pansy 261 
 
 Paris green 98 
 
 Parlsey 380 
 
 Parsnips 357 
 
 Peach 319 
 
416 
 
 INDEX 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Pear 313 
 
 ; Peas 363 
 
 Pea, Sweet 266 
 
 Pennyroyal 385 
 
 Peppermint 385 
 
 Peppers 372 
 
 Petunia 262 
 
 Phlox 262 
 
 Phosphoric acid 116 
 
 Physalis 371 
 
 Picture in landscape 121 
 
 Pineapple 330 
 
 Plan of the place 120 
 
 Plans and maps 195 
 
 Plant-food lit 
 
 Planting ornamental grounds. . .211 
 
 Plowing 18 
 
 Plum 317 
 
 Polyanthus 271 
 
 Poplar, Lombardy 151 
 
 Poplars 151,212 
 
 Papaver 262 
 
 Poppy 262 
 
 Portulacca 251 
 
 V Potash 116 
 
 V Potato 359 
 
 Pot-herbs 376 
 
 Preparing the land 7 
 
 Protecting plants 58 
 
 Pruning 53, 133, 306 
 
 V' Pumpkins 375 
 
 Pumps 101 
 
 Quince 325 
 
 Rabbits 105 
 
 Radish 357 
 
 Raking lawns 205 
 
 Raisins 335 
 
 Raspberry 336 
 
 Records 109 
 
 Reeds 290 
 
 Rhododendrons 217 
 
 V Rhubarb 380 
 
 Ribbon-beds 251 
 
 Ricinus 254 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Roberts, book by 7, 10, 116 
 
 Rollers 33 
 
 Rolling lawns 207 
 
 > Root crops 353 
 
 Rosemary 385 
 
 Roses 148, 229, 294 
 
 > Ruta-bagas 355 
 
 Sage 385 
 
 Salad plants 376 
 
 Solanaceous plants 369 
 
 Salsify 357 
 
 Salvia 262 
 
 Savory 385 
 
 Seed, sowing 37 
 
 Scale insects 93 
 
 School grounds 198 
 
 Scilla 272 
 
 Shade, plants for 210 
 
 Shearing plants 39 
 
 Shelter belts 221 
 
 Shrubs for city lot 168 
 
 -list of 226 
 
 Simonds, O. C 189 
 
 Small-fruits 336 
 
 Smith, H. W., calendars by .... 389 
 
 Snow-drop 271 
 
 Socrates, quoted 2 
 
 Sodding 207 
 
 Sorrel 379 
 
 Sowing seed 37 
 
 Spearmint 385 
 
 . Spinach 378 
 
 Sponge, vegetable 376 
 
 Spraying 98 
 
 (, Spuds 32 
 
 Squash 374 
 
 Stake label 109 
 
 Storing fruits 300-308 
 
 ! Strawberries 343 
 
 Streets, suburban 189 
 
 Subsoiling 16 
 
 Sub-tropical fruits 325 
 
 Suburban streets 189 
 
 Sunken fence 183 
 
INDEX 
 
 417 
 
 PAGE 
 Sweet corn 383 
 
 — herbs 385 
 
 — pea 266 
 
 — potato 359 
 
 Swiss Chard 379 
 
 Sylvinit 118 
 
 Taft, L. R., on fruits 305 
 
 Tallies 110 
 
 Tansy ...385 
 
 Tarryer, quoted. 25 
 
 Terraces 179 
 
 Thyme 385 
 
 Time to plant 55 
 
 Tomato 371 
 
 Torenia 252 
 
 Tracy's kitchen garden 349 
 
 Transplanting 38, 44, 217 
 
 Trees, age to buy 305 
 
 — list of 221 
 
 — moving 45 
 
 Tricker, book by • 243 
 
 Trillium 281 
 
 Trowels 32 
 
 Tropoeolum 263, 266 
 
 Tropical effects 252 
 
 Tuberose 277 
 
 Tulip 270 
 
 Turnip 354 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Vegetable garden 348 
 
 Vegetable sponge 375 
 
 Verbena 263 
 
 Vermin 105 
 
 Vines 214, 235 
 
 Vista 125 
 
 Walker, Ernest 241 
 
 Walks 184 
 
 Water lilies 243 
 
 Watermelons 374 
 
 Waugh on vegetables 353 
 
 Wax, grafting 108 
 
 Weeders 35 
 
 Weedland 147 
 
 Weeping trees 151, 172 
 
 Wheel-hoes 22 
 
 Whitewashing 64 
 
 Whitlavia 252 
 
 Whitten, quoted 64 
 
 Wigandia 254 
 
 Willows 153 
 
 Windbreaks 221 
 
 Winter protection 58 
 
 Wormwood 385 
 
 Yards 159 et seq. 
 
 Yellows 321 
 
 Zea 254 
 
 Zinnia 263 
 
 AA 
 
SCIENCE READERS 
 
 BY 
 
 VINCENT T. MURCHE 
 
 Revised and Adapted for Use in Schools, with a Preface by 
 MRS. L. L. W. WILSON, Philadelphia Normal School 
 
 
 
 
 NOW 
 
 READY 
 
 
 
 Vol. 
 
 I. 
 
 Price, 
 
 25 cents. 
 
 Vol. IV. 
 
 Price, 
 
 40 cents. 
 
 Vol. 
 
 II. 
 
 Price, 
 
 25 cents. 
 
 Vol. V. 
 
 Price, 
 
 50 cents. 
 
 Vol. 
 
 III. 
 
 Price, 
 
 40 cents. 
 
 Vol. VI. 
 
 Price, 
 
 50 cents. 
 
 These books are beautiful, reliable, and made on professional lines. They 
 furnish the information that is most useful, graded skillfully, written admirably. 
 In style, material and method these books are admirable.— iV<?w England Jour- 
 nal of Education- 
 
 As supplemental readers they are excellent, and, used in connection with the 
 object lessons, they make the most complete set of books yet designed for science 
 teachers. Our teachers have been delighted with them.— From a prominent 
 educator. 
 
 NATURE STUDY FOR ELEMEN- 
 TARY SCHOOLS 
 
 BY 
 
 MRS. L. L. W. WILSON, Ph.D., Philadelphia Normal School 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES 
 
 Vol. I. Reader. In Press. Vol. II. Teachers' Manual. Beady. 90c. 
 
 This course of Nature Study has already been subjected to the test 
 of practical application in the school room, with excellent results. It 
 may be pursued with profit to teacher and pupil in any one of the first 
 four years of school life, and in any school, however poorly equipped. 
 
 It is planned chiefly to meet the needs of the ordinary grade teacher 
 in the public schools, and does not presuppose special training on her 
 part, nor special facilities for the collection of material. It does, how- 
 ever, take for granted a strong desire on the teacher's part to do this 
 work, a lively belief in its efficacy, and an earnest effort to become better 
 acquainted with the familiar, yet to most of us unknown, face of nature. 
 
 THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
 
 66 Fifth Ave., NEW YORK 
 
LESSONS WITH PLANTS 
 
 BY 
 
 L. H. BAILEY 
 
 Suggestions for Seeing and Interpreting some of 
 the Common Forms of Vegetation 
 
 12mo, Half Leather, Price $1.10 net 
 
 WITH DELINEATIONS FROM NATURE BY 
 
 W. S. HOLDSWORTH 
 
 Assistant Professor op Drawing in the Agricultural College op 
 
 Michigan 
 
 ''The clear text, beautiful illustrations, strong binding and most 
 important of all, the very excellent arrangement of the subject matter, 
 make it an invaluable adjunct to the working materials of a busy 
 teacher. Aside from its value as a thoroughly up-to-date text book, 
 it is equally indispensable to the busy teacher as a reference book 
 on account of the clear, concise and unique manner of the arrange- 
 ment of its contents." 
 
 MISS L. M. ELLIOT, 
 
 Grammar School No. 82, 
 
 New York City. 
 
 THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
 
 66 Fifth Ave., NEW YORK 
 BOSTON CHICAGO SAN FRANCISCO 
 
The Unral Sdence Series. 
 
 Edited by Professor L. H. Bailey. 
 
 BOOKS which state the underlying principles of agriculture 
 in such language that they may be read at the home 
 fireside, in the office, at the club or grange, or used as 
 text-books. Each is substantially bound in blue cloth. 
 These books combine the results of the very latest and best 
 science with the best skill of practical farm work and manage- 
 ment. Each one is written by a specialist who has attained 
 reputation for long-continued and conscientious work, Each 
 volume is readable, simple, elear-eut, ppaetieal, up 
 to date, and thoroughly scientific and reliable. The 
 detailed information given in these volumes is of the most val- 
 uable character to every cultivator of the soil. Five volumes 
 are now ready : 
 
 THE SOIL I ^^^ Nature, Relations, and Fundamental 
 Principles of Management. By F. H. 
 
 King, Professor of Agricultural Physics in the University of 
 Wisconsin. 303 pages, 45 illustrations. 75 CtS. 
 
 It comprises an introduction, which discusses the making of soils 
 by natural agencies ; and chapters follow on the nature, functions, 
 origin and wasting of soils ; texture, composition, and kinds of 
 soils ; nitrogen of the soil ; capillarity, solution, diffusion, and 
 osmosis ; soil water ; conservation of soil moisture ; distribution 
 of roots in the soil ; soil temperature ; relation of air to the soil ; 
 farm drainage ; iri'igation ; physical effect of tillage and fertilizers. 
 It has received the warmest approbation of teachers and" farmers 
 ill all parts of the country. 
 
 " I consider it a most desirable addition to our agricultiiral literature, and 
 a distinct advance over previous treatises on the same suliject, not only for 
 popular use, but also for students and specialists, who will lind many new and 
 useful suggestions therein." E. W. Hilgard, 
 
 Director of Agricultural Experiment Station, 
 Berkeley, Cal. 
 
 THE FERTILITY OF THE LAND : a summary 
 
 Sketch of 
 
 the Relationship of Farm-Practice to the Maintaining 
 and Increasing of the Productivity of the Soil. By 
 
 I. P. Egberts, Director of the College of Agriculture, Cornell 
 University. 440 pages; fully illustrated. $1.25 
 
^ht ^nxnl S>txtntt S>txxtt, 
 
 Edited by Professor L. H. Bailey. 
 
 THE SPRAYING OF PLANTS : a Sueeinet Ae- 
 
 count of the 
 
 History, Principles and Practice of the Application of 
 Liquids and Powders to Plants for the Purpose of 
 Destroying Insects and Fungi. By E. G. Lodeman, late 
 Instructor in Horticulture in the Cornell University. 399 
 pages, 92 illustrations. $1.00 
 
 The only complete manual of the spraying of plants, and the 
 standard work upon the subject. The first part is a complete his- 
 tory of the rise of spraying, both in this country and abroad. 
 There are also full illustrated accounts of pumps and nozzles, 
 complete recipes of formulas, and the like. The second part, com- 
 prising 135 pages, is an alphabetical illustrated account of the 
 various insects and fungi, with methods of treating them. The 
 book as a whole is not only a complete monograph upon the sub- 
 ject, but a most valuable manual of practice. 
 
 " I have looked it carefully over with a great deal of interest, and feel that 
 it is a very timely book, and one that can be safely recommended to all horti- 
 eultiirists and fruit-growers as the best." Pres. H. H. (tOODEll, 
 
 Massachusetts Agricultural College, 
 Amherst, Mass. 
 
 THE PRINCIPLES OF FRUIT-GROWING: 
 
 By Professor L. H. Bailry. 520 pages, 114 illustrations. $1.25 
 
 This book is designed to treat all those underlying matters of 
 fruit-growing which are common to most or all of the various 
 fruits. Tlie author in preparing a monograph upon the Apple, 
 concluded that it would serve the purpose of his readers better 
 if all the essentials of fruit-growing were placed in a separate and 
 initial volume. He has, therefore, delayed the preparation of the 
 Apple book for the present. 
 
 " The Principles of Fruit-Growing" is a unique book, and brings 
 the very best science of the day to join hands with the best prac- 
 tice. It includes illustrations of every important operation, and 
 may be taken as a consensus of the opinions and methods of the 
 most successful growers. The contents are as follows : Intro- 
 ductory Discussion, comprising an inventory and classification of 
 fruits, the fruit zones, the outlook for fruit-growing ; the Location 
 and Its Climate, with a full discussion of frosts ; the Tilling of 
 Fruit Lands ; the Fertilizing of Fruit Lands ; the Planting of 
 Orchards ; Secondary Cai*e of Orchards ; Diseases, Insects and 
 Spraying; Picking and Packing and Storing Fruits, Shipping, etc.; 
 and a bibliography of American wi'itings on the subject. 
 
Tht Hural Stxtntt S^riBS, 
 
 Edited by Professor L. H. Bailey. 
 
 MILK AND ITS PRODUCTS: * Treatise upon 
 
 the Nature and 
 
 Qualities of Dairy Milk, and the Manufacture of But- 
 ter and Cheese. By Henry H. Wing, Assistant Professor 
 of Dairy Husbandry in the Cornell University. 280 pages, 
 33 illustrations. $1.00 
 
 This is the only book which adequately covers the whole field of 
 dairying. Its range is indicated by the table of contents : Secre- 
 tion of Milk ; Composition of Milk ; Testing of Milk ; Ferments 
 and Fermentations of Milk, and their Control; Market Milk ; Sep- 
 aration of Cream ; Ripening of Cream ; Churniug ; Finishing and 
 Marketing Butter ; Milk for Cheese-Making ; Cheddar Cheese- 
 Making ; Varieties of Cheese ; By-Products of the Dairy ; Butter 
 and Cheese Factories ; Statistics and Economics of the Dairy In- 
 dustry ; Appendix, comprising useful rules and tests, metric sys- 
 tem, dairy laws, and references to dairy literature. 
 
 *** So long as the demand warrants, new volumes will be added 
 to the Rural Science Library. Definite arrangements have now 
 been completed for the following : 
 
 PHYSIOLOGY OF PLANTS. By J. C. Arthur, Purdue Univ. 
 
 PRINCIPLES OF BREEDING OF ANIMALS. By W. H. 
 
 Brewer, of Yale University. 
 
 BUSH FRUITS. By F. W. Card, of University of Nebraska. 
 PLANT PATHOLOGY. By B. T. Galloway and associates, of 
 
 United States Department of Agriculture. 
 SEEDS AND SEED-GROWING. By G. H. Hicks, of United 
 
 States Department of Agriculture. 
 LEGUMINOUS PLANTS AND NITROGEN-GATHERING. By 
 
 E. W. Hilgard, of University of California. 
 
 FEEDING OF ANIMALS. By W. H. Jordan, of New York 
 State Experiment Station. 
 
 IRRIGATION AND DRAINAGE. By F. H. King, of the Uni- 
 versity of Wisconsin. 
 
 FERTILIZERS. By E. B. Voorhees, of N. J. Exp. Station. 
 
 RURAL WEALTH AND WELFARE. By George T. Fair- 
 child, Ex-President of the Agricultural College of Kansas. 
 
 FARM POULTRY. By George C. Watson, of Pennsylvania 
 State College. 
 
 THE MACMILLAN COMPANY, 
 
 66 Fifth Avenue, NEW YORK. 
 
Edited by Professor L. H. Bailey. 
 
 c 
 
 OMPRISING practical hand-books explaining the methods 
 practiced by the horticulturist. They are tastily bound 
 in green flexible cloth. Four volumes are now ready, 
 all written by Professor Bailey, of Cornell University. 
 
 PLANT -BREEDING: ^^^^S Five Lectures upon 
 the Amelioration of Domes- 
 tie Plants. 293 pages, 20 illustrations. ■ $1.00 
 
 This is the only book devoted to this subject. It comprises five 
 chapters or lectures : The Fact and Phylosophy of Variation ; 
 The Philosophy of the Crossing of Plants ; How Domestic Varieties 
 Originate ; Borrowed Opinions, being translations from the writ- 
 ings of Verlot, Carriere, and Focke ; Pollination, or How to Cross 
 Plants. Chapter IH. contains the list of fifteen rules for plant- 
 breeding which DeVarigny, the eminent French writer, has called 
 "the quindecalogue of the horticulturist," and of which he says, 
 "Solomon — if he had devoted himself to horticulture — could not 
 have judged more soundly than Mr. Bailey." It is the purpose of 
 the book to tell how varieties of cultivated plants come about, and 
 how man may originate them. 
 
 "I have read the work on ' Plant-Breeding,' by Professor L. H. Bailey, with 
 keen interest, and find it just what I expected from such a source ; viz., a 
 most satisfactory treatise on a subject of most pressing horticultural impor- 
 tance. Professor Bailey combines a breadth of view with knowledge of detail, 
 and produces written work most delightful to the scholar, and at the same 
 time fit to command the respect and correct the practice of the craftsman. I 
 honor Professor Bailey as a leader in the advancement of horticulture." 
 
 E. J. WiCKSON, 
 
 Agricultural Experiment Station, Berkeley, Cal. 
 
 THE HORTICULTURIST'S RULE -BOOK: 
 
 A compendium of useful information for fruit-grow- 
 ers, truek-gardeners, florists, and others. Fourth edition. 
 312 pages. 75 ets. 
 
 This is the standard work of reference for horticulturists, and is 
 now so well known that a detailed description is no longer neces- 
 sary. The fact that the index contains 2,000 entries shows the 
 great range of its contents. It is heaping full of information up- 
 on such matters as recipes for insecticides and fungicides, descrip- 
 tions (with remedies) of insects and diseases, weeds, lawns, graft- 
 ing-waxes, seed and planting-tables, tables of yields, rules for 
 greenhouse heating and management, with figures, methods of 
 storing produce, tariff and postal rates, rules of societies for nam 
 ing and exhibiting specimens, score-cards and scales of points, 
 analyses of fertilizing substances, lists of currant horticultural 
 books and journals, with prices and publishers, etc. 
 
Edited by PROFESSOR L. H. Bailey. 
 
 THE NURSERY - BOOK . a complete Guide to the 
 • Multiplication of Plants. 
 
 Third edition, thoroughly revised and extended. 365 pages, 152 
 
 illustrations. $1.00 
 
 This manual, which has been one of the most popular of recent 
 horticultural books, was first published in 1891. In this third edi- 
 tion, all the features of the first two editions have been preserved, 
 and the work has been extended to include many new subjects, 
 such as seed-testing, mutual influence of stock and cion, the ques- 
 tion of the devitalizing effects of graftage, the management and 
 fertilizing of nursery lands, the grading of trees, storing of trees, 
 trimming trees in the nursery, the healing of wounds, dwarfing 
 trees, root-grafted vs. budded trees, and a full glossary. Very 
 many new and original illustrations have been added. The book 
 compi'ises full practical directions for seed-sowing, the making of 
 all kinds of layers, stools, cuttings, propagation by bulbs and 
 tubers, and very complete accounts of all the leading kinds of 
 budding, grafting and inarching. Aside from this, The Nursery 
 List is an alphabetical catalogue of about 1,500 plants, — of fruit, 
 kitchen-garden, ornamental and greenhouse species, — with direc- 
 tions for their multiplication. The book is the most complete 
 treatise of its kind in the language, and is the standard reference 
 book of nurserymen. 
 
 "This book sliovild be in the home of not only every horticulturist, but of 
 pvery family, irrespective of occupation, who love flowers or ornamental plants, 
 for it treats of the propagation of these as well as of iood-vlsmts."— Michigan 
 Fruit- Grotver. 
 
 THE FORCING-BOOK: a Manual of the Cultiva- 
 
 tion of Vegetables in Glass 
 
 Houses. 26G pages, 88 illustrations. $1.00 
 
 A handbook of instructions upon the forcing of vegetables for 
 market, which is the completest work of the kind yet published in 
 this counti-y. It is based on careful experimentation at the Cor- 
 nell University Station, and a long familiarity with the forcing 
 business. It contains full estimates of the cost of heating forcing- 
 houses and of the labor necessary to run them, with illustrated 
 chapters on the construction of forcing-houses, and their manage- 
 ment. Very complete directions are given for the watering, venti- 
 lating, shading, and piping of houses ; for the control of insects 
 and fungous diseases, the making of forcing-house soils, etc. 
 Then follow detailed instructions as to how to force lettuce, cauli- 
 tiower, radish, asparagus, rhubarb, pea, salad plants and mints, 
 root-crops, pepino, cucumber, muskmelon, bean, pepper, egg-plant, 
 and others. The final chapter is a collection of summaries of the 
 leading points in the management of each croup, so arranged that 
 the busy man can turn to any one of them instantly. The book 
 should be had by every person who has a greenhouse. 
 
Tte (Sartlcn-QIraft Series, 
 
 Edited by Professor L. H. Bailey. 
 
 THE FORCING-BOOK-Contiliued. 
 
 "The discussion of tlie various forms of liouses, with tlieir structural de 
 tails, is very complete, aitliougli concise, and for tlie space it takes it gives 
 more valuable information than can be found elsewhere in tlie same compass. 
 All such practical questions as would be treated under the liead of soil, fertil- 
 izers, irrigation, shading, pollination, etc., have received careful study, and the 
 beginner can feel safe in following them to the letter." — Garden and Forest. 
 
 "It would have saved us dollars and dollars if we could have had it a few 
 years ago." C. J. Pennock, Keunett Square, Pa. 
 
 Another volume is now on the press, — THE PRUNING- 
 BOOK. 
 
 Not included in either of the foregoing- series. 
 
 THE SURVIVAL OF THE UNLIKE : a couee- 
 
 t i n of 
 
 Evolution Essays Suggested by the Study of Domestic 
 Plants. Second edition. $2.00 
 
 This is an illustrated volume of 515 pages by Professor Bailey, 
 containing an inunense amount of fact, experiment and philosophy 
 respecting the evolution of plants, and particularly of their modi- 
 fication under cultivation. It is the most thorough discussion of 
 the running-out of varieties, acclimatization, and the like. It is, 
 in fact, the only book which can be called a philosophy of horti- 
 culture. It comprises thirty essays, as follows: The Survival of 
 the Unlike ; Neo-Lamarckism and Neo-Darwinism; The Plant 
 Individual in the Light of Evolution, or The Philosophy of Bud- 
 Variation, and its Bearing upon Weismannism ; Experimental 
 Evolution amongst Plants ; Van Mons and Knight, and the Pro- 
 duction of Varieties ; Some Bearings of the Evolution-Teaching 
 upon Plant-Cultivation ; Why Have our Enemies Increased ? •. 
 Coxey's Army and the Russian Thistle, or a Sketch of the Philos- 
 ophy of Weediness ; Recent Progress in American Horticulture; 
 On the Supposed Correlations of Quality in Fruits; The Natural 
 History of Synonyms; Reflective Impressions of the Nursery 
 Business ; The Relation of Seed-Bearing to Cultivation ; Variation 
 after Birth ; A Pomological Alliance ; Sketch of the Relationship 
 between American and Eastern Asian Fruits ; Horticultural Geo- 
 gi'aphy ; Some Emphatic Problems of Climate and Plants, Com- 
 prising "Speculative Notes upon Phenology (the Physiological 
 Constant, and the Climatal Modification of Phenological Phenom- 
 
THE SURVIVAL OF THE UNLIKE-Continued. 
 
 ena)," and "Some Interrelations of Climatology and Horticul- 
 ture "; Are American Fruits Best Adapted to American Conditions? ; 
 Acclimatization: Does it Occur?; On the Longevity of Apple 
 Trees ; Sex in Fruits ; Are Novelties Worth their Cost ? ; Why 
 do Promising Varieties Fail?; Reflections upon the Longevity of 
 Varieties, comprising "Do Varieties Run Out?" "Are the Varieties 
 of Orchard Fruits Running Out ? " " Studies in the Longevity of 
 the Varieties of Tomatoes"; Whence Came the Cultivated Straw- 
 berry?; The Battle of the Plums; The Evolution of American 
 Grapes ; The Progress of the Carnation, comprising "Types and 
 Tendencies in the Carnation," "John Thorpe's Ideal Carnation," 
 and "Border Carnations"; Evolution of the Petunia; The Amelio- 
 ration of the Garden Tomato, comprising " The Origin of the 
 Tomato from a Morphological Standpoint," "History of the Trophy 
 Tomato," "The Probable Course of Evolution of the Tomato," and 
 " Direction of Contemporaneous Improvement of the Tomato " ; 
 Glossary. 
 
 "Whatever Professor Bailey writes is interesting reading. He has the rare 
 gift of an entertaining style, and what he writes people want to read. All his 
 previous books have be«^n widely read, and this will prove no exception to the 
 well-established rule. The secret of this popularity, if there be any secret about 
 it, is that when he writes he has something new to say,— something liased 
 upon experiences and observations. These are by no means all his own, for 
 he has the ability to see with tlie eyes of other people, as well as with his 
 own. He is thus able to bring into his pages a rich mass of new matter, which 
 gives them aditional interest and vahie." Professor C. E. Bessey, 
 
 University of Nebraska, in *^ Science." 
 
 ***A companion volume to "The Survival of the Unlike," 
 beautifully illustrated, may be expected soon: 
 
 THE EVOLUTION OF OUR NATIVE FRUITS. 
 
 We also beg to announce that Professor Bailey has con- 
 sented to undertake the editorial oversight of an 
 
 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF AMERICAN HORTICULTURE, 
 
 to be published in three large illustrated volumes, dated 1900. 
 It is to contain signed articles by specialists, arranged alphabet- 
 ically by subjects, on horticulture in its widest sense, including 
 Fruit-Growing, Flower and Vegetable Gardening, Greenhouse 
 Matters, Ornamental Gardening, the Botany of Cultivated Plants, 
 Bibliographies, Biographies, etc. 
 
 THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
 
 66 Fifth Avenue, NEW YORK 
 
LbAg'20 
 
>^ 
 
LIBRARY OF, CONGRESS 
 
 00027bQ35ia