LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 
 
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 Shelf.H/16 
 
 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
PKACTICAL SUGGESTIONS 
 
 AMERICAN TOURIST 
 
 VISITING EUROPE FOB THE FIRST TIME. 
 
 JAMES H. HOOSE, A. M„ Ph. D., 
 
 Principal of the State Normal and Training School, Cortland, N. Y. 
 
 COOK, SON & JENKINS, 
 No. 261 Broadway, New York. 
 
 

 Copyright, 1878, by J. H. House 
 
 NOXO?4IHSVAl 
 
 SS3/HONO0 SO 
 : ^HIl HHJL 
 
TO 
 
 itvs- |. f. poosf, 
 
 WHOSE STUDIES AND OBSERVATIONS ABROAD HAVE SO LARGELY 
 
 ENTERED INTO ITS PREPARATION, 
 
 THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED BY 
 
 HER HUSBAND. 
 
TABU: OF CONTENTS. 
 
 I. — Purposes of the Book 5 
 
 II. — Preliminary Correspondence ... g 
 
 III. — Companies in Traveling .... I2 
 
 IV . — Expenses of a Tour .... 1 5 
 
 V. — Carrying Money 20 
 
 VI. — Books and Study for Tourists ... 22 
 
 VII. — Passports and Letters of Introduction - - 25 
 
 VIII. —Outfit of the Tourist .... 26 
 
 IX. — Sea-sickness 33 
 
 X. — Boarding the Ship 39 
 
 XI. — Ocean Voyage 41 
 
 XII. — Entering the Port of Destination - - 49 
 
 XIII. — Finding a Hotel after Landing ... 52 
 
 XIV. —European Hotels - 54 
 
 XV. — European Cities ------ 66 
 
 XVI. — Traveling in Cities 72 
 
 XVII. —Railways and Railway Travel ... 78 
 XVIII. — Railway Stations 94 
 
 XIX. — Railway Luggage 99 
 
 XX. — Coaches and Diligences - 103 
 
 XXI. — Studying the Country 106 
 
 XXII. — Institution of Feeing - - - - in 
 XXIII.— Spirit of the Tourist 118 
 
PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS 
 
 I.— Purposes of the Book. 
 
 This little volume is not a guide book. It is 
 simply what its title implies : The common- 
 sense experience which tourists meet and must 
 daily heed, or practical suggestions to Americans 
 traveling in Europe for the first time. It is no 
 indifferent task for one who has perchance never 
 traveled much, even in the United States, to un- 
 dertake a tour across the Atlantic. Everything 
 is so new, so unknown ; the customs are, in many 
 respects, so different from ours, and the anxiety 
 and excitement of rapid traveling are so con- 
 stant a strain upon the nervous system, that any 
 suggestions which may render the tour less per- 
 plexing and at the same time more profitable are 
 of value. The little and apparently unim- 
 portant things are carefully noted with details, 
 even to occasional repetition, because they give 
 the aggregate worry and labor of a tour. This 
 may, indeed, be called a book of small items of 
 travel which the guide books do not specify, but 
 
6 PURPOSES OF THE BOOK. 
 
 which are precisely the details that tourists 
 so much desire and need to know. The volume 
 faces more immediately Summer than Winter 
 tours. 
 
 So many things present themselves to the 
 tourist concerning which he must act, and about 
 which the guide books give him no information 
 nor suggestion even, that hints of ways out of 
 these anxieties cannot come without a welcome, 
 however humble may be their pretensions. 
 
 The usual cost of a tour in Europe is of so 
 much moment that the advantages and pleasures 
 returned therefor should be of no uncertain 
 value. All the assistance that can be rendered 
 the tourist will be welcomed by him as worthy of 
 regard. 
 
 While Americans may feel justly and reason- 
 ably satisfied with the reputation which their 
 countrymen enjoy abroad for their quickness of 
 perception, their perseverance, their general 
 intelligence, their liberality, yet it must have im- 
 pressed others, as it has the writer, that still 
 more can be done by American travelers to con- 
 vey to foreigners, among whom they present 
 themselves, a more correct knowledge of the 
 better and higher results of our American insti- 
 tutions. These favorable impressions are the 
 ones which materially sustain and strengthen the 
 bonds of international regard and friendship, 
 which every traveler should desire to cherish and 
 cultivate. 
 
 My own travels have been so limited that these 
 hints are written with much diffidence, and with 
 the knowledge that they cover only partially the 
 experience of wider travel ; hence the attempt 
 to generalize statements is rarely made. The 
 matter, unless otherwise indicated, is based upon 
 
PURPOSES OF THE BOOK. 7 
 
 observations made during vacation tours in 
 Europe, and I am not unmindful of my own 
 shortcomings in my observations, and of the fact 
 that others observe as well as myself. 
 
 If these suggestions shall aid any tourist who 
 is upon his first journey over the ocean, and 
 shall in any degree help to increased profit and 
 pleasure in his traveling, the purposes of the 
 writer will be attained. 
 
PRELIMINARY CORRESPONDENCE. 
 
 II.— Preliminary Correspondence. 
 
 One who contemplates making a tour in Eu- 
 rope should enter into early correspondence with 
 an agency which represents the ocean line of 
 steamships by which he expects to cross the At- 
 lantic. This is necessary in order to have a bet- 
 ter choice of accommodations on board the ship, 
 as those who apply first are first served. All the 
 leading newspapers of the seaboard cities contain 
 advertisements of the ocean lines of steamers 
 and the rates of passage. In my own experience 
 I found the most desirable way to proceed was to 
 open correspondence directly with Messrs. Cook, 
 Son and Jenkins, Tourists' Office, 261 Broad- 
 way, New York. They are agents for all the 
 steamship lines that cross the ocean ; they are in 
 telegraphic communication with all the offices of 
 the various ship companies ; they furnish descrip- 
 tive plans of all the steamers ; they are familiar 
 with all locations on ship board ; they can always 
 give a choice of rooms and accommodations ; 
 and they are very prompt and courteous in carry- 
 ing on correspondence. They have local agencies 
 scattered all over the United States. They also 
 sell to travelers tickets for all parts of the world, 
 and furnish estimates at short notice for almost 
 any conceivable itinerary, including hotel ex- 
 penses, with or without their hotel coupons, at 
 the pleasure of the tourist. Their offices are lo- 
 cated over the whole world. 
 
 Regarding the ocean voyage, it is advisable, 
 whenever practicable, to engage passage some 
 
PRELIMINARY CORRESPONDENCE. 9 
 
 weeks, or months even, previous to the date 
 fixed for sailing. Saturdays are the great days 
 for sailing from New York, although many steam- 
 ships leave that port on Tuesdays, Wednesdays 
 and Thursdays, rarely on Fridays, Sundays and 
 Mondays. Regarding the ocean passage, the 
 most desirable months for a tour are May, June, 
 July, August, and the first half of September, be- 
 fore the approach of the autumnal equinox. It 
 is said that March is the crown of the year in 
 storms on the Atlantic. 
 
 As to the ship itself, and where the desirable 
 berths are located, the tourist should first secure 
 plans of the steamer, which enable one to under- 
 stand more readily the location of the state-rooms 
 berths, saloons, and ot}her portions of the ship. 
 In the ships of some of the companies the cabin 
 passengers occupy the centre of the ship ; in 
 other lines, the after portions. In reference to 
 the selection of berths, the following suggestions 
 may be offered : The ends of the ship have 
 more motion from the waves than the centre 
 portion — the outside rooms have a port- 
 hole or round glass window which lets the 
 light directly into the side of the room, and 
 when the waves are not too high, may be swung 
 open during the daytime for ventilation ; the 
 side rooms open only into the passage ways or 
 aisles for ventilation, and are dependent in the 
 day time for light upon the passages and the 
 small, oblong glass prisms, dead lights, which 
 are set into the deck above. These inside rooms 
 are very comfortable, however. The rooms are 
 usually provided with a bell-cord or an electric 
 signal to summon an attendant. It would be 
 an improvement in most steamships if more 
 ample means of ventilation were provided for the 
 
IO OCEAN STEAMERS SAILING FROM NEW YORK. 
 
 cabins and saloons. When there are many pas- 
 sengers on board, the state-rooms are necessarily- 
 crowded, there being two or three, and sometimes 
 even more, in one room. Looking to possible 
 sea-sickness, a lower berth is more desifable than 
 an upper one, as it is more easily entered and left, 
 but for light and ventilation the upper berth, 
 if under the port-hole, is preferable. 
 
 In order to aid those who have had no experi- 
 ence in this matter, there is submitted the fol- 
 lowing list of lines of ocean steamers, sailing 
 from New York, unless otherwise indicated, as 
 published in Cook's Excursionist and Tourist 
 Advertiser for January, 1878. 
 
 Name of Line and Accom- 
 modation. 
 
 Destination. 
 
 Single Voy- 
 age. 
 
 Return 
 Tickets. 
 
 Anchor Line — 
 
 Aft outside berths 1 
 
 Glasgow, 
 calling at London- 
 derry. 
 London, 
 (direct steamer.) 
 
 Liverpool, 
 calling at Queens- 
 town. 
 London, 
 (direct steamer.) 
 
 Liverpool, 
 calling at Queens- 
 town. 
 
 Liverpool, 
 calling at Queens- 
 town. 
 
 Glasgow, 
 calling at Belfast. 
 
 Liverpool, 
 calling at Queens- 
 town. 
 
 ($ 7 o cur. 
 1 55 cur. 
 
 { $70 cur. 
 ( 55 cur. 
 
 ( $70 cur. 
 ( 50 cur. 
 
 f$6o cur. 
 \ 50 cur. 
 
 f $100 gold. 
 1 80 gold. 
 
 ($130 gold. 
 < 100 gold. 
 ( 80 gold. 
 
 ( $100 gold. 
 
 < 80 gold. 
 ( 60 gold. 
 
 C$70 cur. 
 
 < 55 cur. 
 ( 40 cur. 
 
 ( $100 gold. 
 j 80 gold. 
 
 $120 cur. 
 
 Anchor Line — 
 
 Aft outside berths ) 
 
 $120 cur. 
 
 National Line — 
 Outside berths ) 
 
 $120 cur. 
 
 National Line — 
 
 
 
 
 Cunard Line — 
 
 (Except per " Russia.") 
 Outside berths ) 
 
 $180 gold. 
 144 gold. 
 
 $234 gold. 
 180 gold. 
 144 gold. 
 
 $165 gold. 
 135 gold. 
 120 gold. 
 
 $125 cur. 
 
 (Per " Russia.") 
 Outside berths ") 
 
 Second cabin J 
 
 Inman Line — 
 Outside berths \ 
 
 Aft inside berths ) 
 
 State Line — 
 
 Outside berths } . . ~) 
 
 
 
 White Star Line — 
 
 Outside berths ") 
 
 Inside berths > 
 
 Aft inside berths ) 
 
 $175 gold. 
 145 gold. 
 
OCEAN STEAMERS SAILING FROM NEW YORK. II 
 
 Name of Line and Accom- 
 modation. 
 
 Williams & Guion Line— 
 
 Saloon berths 
 
 Aft outside berths 
 
 Aft inside berths . 
 
 North German Lloyd — 
 
 First cabin ) 
 
 Second cabin J 
 
 (From Baltimore) 
 
 First cabin 
 
 Hamburg-Amer. Line — 
 
 First cabin \ 
 
 Second cabin j" 
 
 French Line— 
 
 First cabin \ 
 
 Second cabin j" 
 
 Allan Line — 
 
 (From Quebec.) 
 
 After berths ) 
 
 Forward berths j" 
 
 (From Baltimore.) 
 According to location of) 
 
 berth ] 
 
 American Line — 
 
 (From Philadelphia.) 
 According to location of | 
 
 berth ) 
 
 Warren Line — Winter Rate 
 i From Boston.) 
 According to berth and ) 
 
 steamer J 
 
 Dominion Line — 
 
 (From Philadelphia) 
 
 Wilson Line 
 
 Destination, 
 
 Liverpool, 
 ing at Queens- 
 town. 
 
 Bremen, 
 calling at South- 
 ampton. 
 
 Hamburg, 
 calling at Plym'th 
 and Cherbourg. 
 Havre, 
 calling a t Ply- 
 mouth. 
 Liverpool, 
 calling at London- 
 derry. 
 
 Liverpool, 
 calling at Queens- 
 town. 
 Liverpool, 
 calling at Queens- 
 town. 
 
 Liverpool. 
 
 Southampton. 
 
 Single Voy- 
 age. 
 
 (#75 cur. 
 < 65 cur. 
 I 55 cur. 
 
 ( $100 gold. 
 ( 60 gold. 
 
 go gold. 
 
 ( $100 gold. 
 ( 60 gold. 
 
 ($100 gold. 
 \ 65 gold. 
 
 ( $So gold. 
 } 70 gold. 
 
 { $75 gold. 
 ( 70 gold. 
 
 f$75to 
 ( 100 cur. 
 
 $60 cur. 
 
 45 cur. 
 50 cur. 
 
 Return 
 Tickets. 
 
 $130 cur. 
 120 cur. 
 100 cur. 
 
 $185 gold. 
 123 gold. 
 
 160 gold. 
 
 $185 g°ld- 
 123 gold. 
 
 $160 gold, 
 no gold. 
 
 $150 gold. 
 125 gold. 
 
 160 gold. 
 140 gold. 
 
 $140 to 
 180 cur. 
 
 $110 cur. 
 $90 cur. 
 
 These rates can not be depended upon for sailings from the first of May to 
 the first of August, as during this time the ships are crowded, and the fares 
 are increased from ten to fifteen per cent. 
 
12 COMPANIES IN TRAVELING. 
 
 III.— Companies in Traveling. 
 
 There are various ways of traveling : In a 
 party under a conductor ; in a party which is 
 more nominal than real, where each member vir- 
 tually cares entirely for himself, yet enjoys the 
 companionship of the others ; in a party which 
 daily appoints some one of its own members to 
 attend to the larder, to the style of living, and to 
 the route taken during the day's travel [I am 
 told this plan is much pursued by the German 
 students when out on their vacation tours] ; and 
 lastly, in company with no one except it chance 
 occasionally otherwise. Each of these modes 
 has its advantages and its disadvantages, which 
 will further appear in discussing the first of the 
 ways named. 
 
 To travel in a personally-conducted party, as 
 the phrase is generally understood, the con- 
 ductor being familiar with the routes, customs, 
 and the languages, has the advantages of freeing 
 the tourist from the care of securing hotel ac- 
 commodations and railway tickets, of studying 
 out the desirable routes to be followed, of look- 
 ing after luggage, engaging guides, feeing ser- 
 vants, and hiring coaches. It has the additional 
 advantages, which are no mean ones, of having 
 the company of an interpreter in countries of 
 strange tongues, which relieves tourists of a feel- 
 ing of severe anxiety in case of sudden illness ; 
 of losing no time in a vain search for the places 
 of interest when time is limited. 
 
 The disadvantages are : That the tourist, 
 
COMPANIES IN TRAVELING. 13 
 
 being relieved from the care of himself, tends to 
 feel an indifference toward the methods and man- 
 ners of the business world through which he 
 passes, and hence he does not come into so near 
 relations with the people as he otherwise would : 
 that the tourist loses some of his best opportuni- 
 ties for becoming acquainted with the forms of 
 business, which acquaintance gives him a more 
 thorough confidence in his own ability to carry 
 on successfully those pursuits which may there- 
 after engage his attention ; that the feeling of 
 greater indifference to what is passing is apt to 
 be induced, because the tourist is only one of a 
 body to the direction of which he gives no 
 concern. 
 
 Again, some of the members of a party, want- 
 ing evenness of disposition and wisdom in judg- 
 ment, make the rest unhappy by reason of 
 moroseness, censoriousness, haughtiness, and the 
 like ; as a party, valuable time is occasionally 
 wasted in listening to specific directions, and in 
 waiting for the appearance of tardy members, 
 and when the party is very large, if too long held 
 to a unity of purpose, the diversities of wants and 
 tastes do not tend to profit and harmony of 
 feeling. 
 
 Also, the estimates of the expenses of the 
 tourist are usually calculated on a basis of first- 
 class accommodations in railway travel, as well 
 as in some other items ; for any others will hardly 
 satisfy the mass of tourists traveling with a con- 
 ductor. These estimates materially increase the 
 total cost of a tour, which may be reduced 
 by purchasing second or third class railway 
 tickets, and by obtaining meals at more convenient 
 hours in restaurants where the tourist can select 
 dishes to his liking. 
 
14 COMPANIES IN TRAVELING. 
 
 Whatever the decision in the way of traveling, 
 Messrs. Cook, Son and Jenkins will accommodate 
 tourists in any or all of these ways — as by single 
 tickets, or in companies, small or large, with or 
 without a conductor. Hence a tourist can be 
 satisfied according to his preference for being 
 relieved of all care and anxiety in regard to the 
 minutiae of the tour, or his willingness to attend 
 to all such details himself. In any event, the 
 company of one or two persons is very desirable, 
 unless the tourist be self-reliant, in which case 
 he can travel alone with comparative ease and 
 comfort. 
 
EXPENSES OF A TOUR. 15 
 
 IY. — Expenses of a Tour. 
 
 Expenses are an important item. To estimate 
 them within probable limits, it will be necessary 
 to determine somewhat exactly the proposed 
 route of travel, the class of fares, and the accom- 
 modations which are desired. 
 
 On the ocean steamers there are, in general, 
 the first cabin passage with outside and inside 
 state-rooms, the second cabin, the intermediate, 
 and the steerage. The rates of passage for the 
 first cabin vary from fifty to one hundred and 
 thirty dollars in gold, according to the line of 
 steamers chosen by the tourist, and the terms 
 decrease for the second cabin and intermediate to 
 very low figures for the steerage, the rates for the 
 latter being from twenty-six to thirty dollars, cur- 
 rency. Generally, the rates of ocean passage are 
 higher in summer than in winter. Return tickets, 
 good for a year from the date of their issue, can 
 usually be purchased at much reduced rates. A 
 portion of the passage money is ordinarily de- 
 manded upon securing the berths, the balance to 
 be paid at the time of sailing. If one desires to go 
 by a sailing vessel the rates are still less, al- 
 though the time required is much greater. 
 
 The passage ticket is all that the ocean voyage 
 will necessarily cost in ordinary calculations ; it 
 includes berth, meals, care of room, and, in case of 
 sickness, the attendance of a physician ; but on 
 most steamers, except the Continental lines, wines 
 are extra. All the ordinary attentions due pas- 
 sengers from the servants are included in the ticket; 
 
l6 EXPENSES OF A TOUR. 
 
 but if extra attentions are shown fees are ex- 
 pected by the servants who render them. 
 
 The fares for railway accommodation vary ac- 
 cording to the class — the second class being 
 about double the third, and the first about three 
 times the third; but this estimate will be more 
 fully discussed under Railway Travel. 
 
 It should always be borne in mind that travel 
 by rail consumes a certain amount of nervous 
 energy by reason of the jar of the carriage, the 
 excitement of meeting strangers, the anxiety of 
 reaching safely the destination, the irregularity 
 of taking meals and sleep. Therefore the tourist 
 should aim to reduce these demands upon his 
 strength to a minimum consistent with his means 
 and the labors to be performed. 
 
 It is well to note this fact : That the Old 
 World, to one who has never visited it, is not 
 only all new and fresh, but is so crowded with 
 history, incident and scenery, by reason of its 
 age, that all places therein are filled with interest; 
 a tourist cannot go amiss, yet it is true that 
 some places are more worthy a visit than others. 
 All the places of interest are described in guide 
 books, and routes of travel among them are es- 
 tablished far more thoroughly in Europe than in 
 America. The time tables, even of the railway 
 service, are subject to but very little if any varia- 
 tion, for a series of years it may be ; with the 
 time tables there are usually combined the fare 
 tables. These facts are introduced as aids in de- 
 termining, before starting, the general route for 
 the complete round trip as well as to assist in es- 
 timating the total cost. 
 
 The would-be-tourist will find it to his great 
 advantage to determine his itinerary quite defi- 
 nitely before leaving America. At first thought 
 
EXPENSES OF A TOUR. 1 7 
 
 this may seem difficult to do, and it may appear 
 undesirable because one wishes to be free to go 
 here and there at will. But it must be borne in 
 mind that Europe is entirely new to the untrav- 
 eled American, and it is crowded full of history, 
 scenery, and interest. If he undertakes to see the 
 whole, he must spend years there; if he travels 
 on a vacation tour his question is how to see the 
 most that he can, and that which is characteristic. 
 To secure this end he should lay out a general 
 itinerary before leaving home, and then adhere 
 to it with respectable tenacity of purpose. It is 
 true in traveling as in all other kinds of business, 
 that one must have a fixed purpose well adhered 
 to, in order that the best results shall follow from 
 the outlay of time and money. It is the usual 
 experience of travelers that those who fix their 
 route beforehand, and, extraordinaries excepted, 
 follow it, return home with more profit and with bet- 
 ter satisfaction to themselves, than those who rove 
 irregularly about at the whim of inclination. Be- 
 sides, if traveling on Cook's tickets, the route can 
 be changed at any point, by exchanging the un- 
 used portions of the tickets at their full value 
 for others desired. This makes the settled itin- 
 erary entirely safe if one should desire on a 
 sudden to deviate from it at any point in his 
 journey. Tickets are always good for a speci- 
 fied time from the day of dating them. 
 
 The detour excursions from the main roads 
 can be made at pleasure. Tourists' tickets 
 always specify the places at which the route can 
 be broken — usually in England and Scotland at 
 any station, while on the Continent only at given 
 stations. 
 
 Hotel charges will range ordinarily about as 
 they do in the United States for similar accom- 
 
l8 EXPENSES OF A TOUR. 
 
 modations. It is well to estimate these at a 
 given sum per day for the number of days which 
 the tour is expected to include. In the Highland 
 districts in Scotland a safe estimate will be three 
 dollars, gold, per day, and on the Continent two 
 dollars, gold. These prices are the bases of 
 Cook's hotel coupons. But while in ordinary 
 times living expenses on the Continent are 
 cheaper than in Britain, yet if the tourist is not 
 cautious in regard to his hotel accommodations, 
 orders, and extras — especially if he does not 
 readily understand the languages — he will find 
 his bill running up rapidly beyond the above 
 prices ere he is aware of it. Expenses at the 
 fashionable Summer resorts are heavy, par- 
 ticularly in the season of patronage. 
 
 The cost of newspapers, guide books, postage 
 and stationery, and of telegraphic despatches — 
 which should always be very plainly written, as 
 foreigners read our writing with some difficulty 
 occasionally — is not large under ordinary circum- 
 stances. When visiting museums, galleries, and 
 libraries, in most places except Paris, canes and 
 umbrellas must be left at the entrance until one 
 returns; a trifling fee is required. As a general 
 statement foreign guide books and maps for tour- 
 ists cost comparatively little in Europe to what 
 they do after importation into the United States. 
 Therefore, it will be far more economical to defer 
 purchasing them until reaching Europe, and then 
 purchase as circumstances shall seem to demand. 
 The books and maps are on sale at the news- 
 stands in the depots, on the coasting and inland 
 boats, at the little book-stalls in the town, and at 
 all the book-stores in the large cities. Tour- 
 ists cannot go amiss in regard to finding them. 
 
 Hence a tour to Europe can be taken at almost 
 
EXPENSES OF A TOUR. 19 
 
 any cost depending upon ocean accommodations, 
 upon railway rates chosen, upon the class of 
 hotels patronized, and upon the time spent. A 
 tourist hard pressed for funds by using economy 
 could see a great deal for two hundred dollars, 
 if he went upon the lowest cabin rates, or as a 
 steerage passenger, third class by railway, and 
 stopped at the low-rate boarding houses, so 
 easily found, or at cheap-priced hotels. But it is 
 wiser, unless severely pressed, to calculate upon 
 an estimate of from three to five hundred dollars 
 for a journey of two or three months. These 
 estimates are close, and do not include extras for 
 purchase of pictures and the like. These figures 
 may be increased indefinitely according to the 
 desires of the tourist. It adds to the pleasure 
 and profit of travel many-fold to be well supplied 
 with ready money. 
 
20 CARRYING MONEY. 
 
 V.— Carrying Money. 
 
 Before leaving the United States the tourist 
 should convert his money into its equivalent in 
 the currency of the country in which he proposes 
 to remain the longest time. Yet it will be a con- 
 venient and safe way to take the equivalent ex- 
 clusively in English money. This can be done 
 with the company owning the line of steamships 
 patronized, or at a broker's office, or at some 
 banking house, at which places drafts at sight, 
 drawn upon correspondents in Europe, can be 
 obtained ; or, when traveling upon their tickets, 
 at the office of Messrs. Cook, Son and Jenkins, 
 who will issue the amount in five or ten pound 
 checks payable at sight at their offices, which are 
 situated at important centres all over Europe, 
 their chief European office being situated at Lud- 
 gate Circus, Fleet street, London. English coin 
 and bank-notes can be readily exchanged in the 
 Continental cities for the currency of the land, 
 which should be disposed of in some way before 
 entering another State, lest it be uncurrent there. 
 
 The following will assist the tourist in com- 
 puting money values in a few of the leading 
 countries. No account is taken of the fluctua- 
 tions in gold, nor of rates of exchange, which are 
 always losses to the traveler. 
 
 In English currency, i sovereign=^i=2o shil- 
 lings=24o pence=|5, U. S. A guinea=2is. 
 Half a crown=a piece worth 2s. 6d. There 
 are 20-shilling pieces, 2-shilling pieces, i-shil- 
 ling pieces, 10-shilling pieces, 2^-shilling pieces, 
 
CARRYING MONEY. 21 
 
 6-pence, 4-pence, 3-pence, i-penny, and half- 
 penny pieces, sometimes farthings. The Eng- 
 lish pronounce the expressions 3-pence, 2-pence, 
 half-penny — thripence. tupence, hap'nny, re- 
 spectively. 
 
 In French currency, the franc=ioo centimes ; 
 a sou=one 5-centime piece ; there are ten-cen- 
 time pieces ; the English sovereign gold piece= 
 25 francs 15 centimes, or practically 25 francs ; 
 the napoleon=2o francs, or 15s. 9d. English, but 
 if tourists are not guarded, the railway officials 
 will allow only the value of one napoleon for one 
 sovereign; observe the same precaution for half- 
 napoleons; the franc = 20 cents, U. S., practically; 
 5 francs = $i. In German money, 1 mark^ioo 
 pfennigs; 1 English shillings 1 mark 4 pfennig s, 
 practically 1 mark; there are i-pfennig, 5-pfen- 
 nig, 10-pfennig, and 50-pfennig pieces; 20 shil- 
 ling, English, = 20 marks 40 pfennigs. In Italy, 
 the English sovereigns 27 lira; 1 lirfcioo cen- 
 times = 95/£ d. In Holland, 1 guilden=ioo cents 
 = 1 florin = is. 8d; i£, English, = 12 guilden 2 
 cents. In Austria, 1 new florin= 100 kreutzers = 
 is. 11^ d.; the ;£i="ii silver florins, or, in cur- 
 rency, 12 florin 60 kreutzers. 
 
22 BOOKS AND STUDY FOR TOURISTS. 
 
 VI.— Books and Study for Tourists. 
 
 Previous to entering on the tour it is desirable 
 that the would-be-traveler should become as thor- 
 oughly acquainted as possible with the general 
 history and present condition of the countries 
 he intends to visit; with their geography, and 
 their civil and political institutions; and, if any 
 special line of investigation is to be pursued 
 abroad, a study into its history, growth and pres- 
 ent state is advisable. This kind of study is the 
 more necessary because the guide books usually 
 assume that the tourist already possesses a knowl- 
 edge of all technical terms used in descriptions 
 of architecture, of fortifications; of collections in 
 cabinets, in" museums, in galleries of paintings 
 and sculpture ; in curiosities of antiquity, of 
 heraldry, of libraries, and the like. Such study 
 is recommended in preference to what may be 
 called the study of each particular locality as de- 
 scribed in the guide books, which it is more pro- 
 fitable to study carefully when on the grounds 
 and surrounded by the scenes which the books 
 describe. It is desirable to read before starting 
 what others have written of the places which are 
 in mind to visit, to hear what is said of them by 
 travelers, and to glean whatever knowledge is pos- 
 sible. 
 
 Of American publications, Harper's Guide 
 Book, and Appleton's are valuable. Messrs. 
 Cook, Son and Jenkins publish guide books and 
 railway time-tables that are of worth. Books of 
 travel, which will be profitable to consult, are 
 
BOOKS AND STUDY FOR TOURISTS. 23 
 
 issued from time to time for daily use of the 
 tourist. When once over the ocean, the following 
 books are almost indispensable — some one or 
 more of them : Black's Guide Book to Scotland; 
 Black's Picturesque Tourist of England; Black's 
 London; Black's Ireland, and still others by this 
 publisher ; Murray's Guide Books and Railway 
 Tables; Baedeker's Guide Books; Bradshaw's 
 Continental Railway Guide, which is both a rail- 
 way guide and a guide book; Bradshaw's Rail- 
 way Guide for Great Britain; all these books are 
 accompanied with excellent maps, and some one 
 of them is a necessary aid to the tourist. When 
 a number of tourists are traveling together, it 
 is an excellent plan for one of them to pur- 
 chase one author, another one to buy another au- 
 thor, and so on — then they can exchange with 
 each other. Hardly any two authors give exactly 
 the same description of any one place or object. 
 It is well to be on the alert for occasional errors 
 of statements, although the established guide 
 books are mainly correct. 
 
 In addition to the above mentioned books, 
 most of the cities and points of interest are writ- 
 ten up in small guide books which will be found 
 upon arrival at those places. Abel Hey wood's 
 penny guides with maps are especially valuable 
 for places in England and Wales. Caution should 
 be strictly taken that these local ones be genuine 
 and complete, for there are many, which are unre- 
 liable, hawked about places of importance. It is 
 better to purchase of the officials in attendance 
 at these places, whenever possible. Good pocket- 
 maps of the various countries can be readily 
 found at any of the cities of note. They are on 
 paper, and on cloth, and while the latter cost the 
 
24 BOOKS AND STUDY FOR TOURISTS. 
 
 more at first, they are the more durable and valu- 
 able in the end. 
 
 If books and maps gradually accumulate upon 
 the hands of the tourist, he can mail them to his 
 home in the United States. The postage is one 
 penny per two ounces from Great Britain, and 
 packages weighing two pounds and under can be 
 mailed. Or these books can be forwarded to the 
 office of the steamship at the port of departure 
 for home, or they can be left at any convenient 
 place to be called for upon returning homeward. 
 
 Another matter of importance is that of lan- 
 guage. An acquaintance with French and Ger- 
 man, even though slight, will be a great gain. 
 " To know the language is to have a double 
 purse." The French suffices for Belgium, the 
 Rhine District, Switzerland and Northern Italy. 
 The Italian for Southern Italy is necessary. It 
 will be an advantage to carry a small pocket-edi- 
 tion of some English-French, English-German, 
 or English-Italian Dictionary, or according to the 
 necessities in the case. The German assists one 
 through Northern Switzerland. In all the leading 
 Continental Hotels servants are employed who 
 speak the English, as is said elsewhere in this 
 volume.* 
 
 *Note. — At the risk of digressing, I wish to note for travelers in America 
 that Osgood's American Guide Books, comprising " New England," " The 
 Middle States," "The Maritime Provinces," and "The White Moun- 
 tains," are very excellent books. The Taintor Brothers publish some 
 small guide books. Cook's tourist books, charts and maps relating to the 
 United States, as far as they go, are good. Some other books occasionally 
 appear which aid in this matter of information regarding places of interest 
 in the States. 
 
PASSPORTS AND LETTERS OF INTRODUCTION 
 
 TIL— Passports and Letters of Introduction. 
 
 Passports are not now required in most of the 
 European countries, as in Great Britain, France, 
 Holland, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, Italy. 
 Yet if one were going alone, a stranger, a pass- 
 port might save him from some vexatious delays. 
 Passports can be obtained on application at the 
 State Department at Washington, and upon ap- 
 plication and identification at the American Le- 
 gations abroad. It is said that the presentation 
 of a passport upon some occasions, particularly 
 upon the Continent, will gain attentions and es- 
 pecial favors from officials that otherwise would 
 be more difficult to secure, and that "a passport is 
 the traveler's best protection against the igno- 
 rance or caprice of local officials, who have it in 
 their power to make themselves disagreeable 
 when they choose." 
 
 Letters of introduction to foreign public offi- 
 cers, or to our American representatives abroad, 
 are valuable. They should be from public men 
 of prominence. Letters of introduction to pri- 
 vate gentlemen in Europe will be of service, and 
 when used they should be delivered in person to 
 the one to whom they are addressed. I would 
 suggest that unless the traveler is a professional 
 gentleman, or engaged in some special investiga- 
 tion, he needs but few letters of introduction, 
 either special or general, to carry about with him. 
 The advantage of having official papers of some 
 kind is, that' in cases of necessity he could com- 
 mand by means of them an attention towards 
 himself that he would miss were the credentials 
 wanting. 
 
26 OUTFIT OF THE TOURIST. 
 
 YIII.— Outfit of the Tourist. 
 
 To begin with, a moderate amount of baggage, 
 or luggage as it is called in Europe, should be 
 taken, rather than much. However, some writers 
 recommend the contrary. Washing is so cheap, 
 and at the hotels is done upon short notice, so 
 quickly, in one night even, that one can keep 
 himself presentable at all times with a small num- 
 ber of changes. Our convenient paper collars 
 and cuffs cannot be found abroad with any degree 
 of certainty — hardly anywhere could I find them. 
 
 To travel with luggage is a much more per- 
 plexing matter in Europe than in America, owing 
 to the absence of a convenient system of check- 
 ing. It is costly, too, as the luggage must be 
 handled by a porter at every change, if it be too 
 heavy for the tourist to do it himself. It is 
 expensive from another standpoint, — an extra 
 amount of baggage is always subject to special 
 rates of charge for transportation. The follow- 
 ing will explain this, and will aid those who de- 
 sire to have some idea of the charge for excess 
 luggage : In England, about ioo lbs. of luggage 
 are allowed free transportation; in Germany, 50 
 lbs.; in Austria and Russia, 55 lbs.; in France, 
 Spain and Sweden, 66 lbs. One-fourth the third 
 class maximum fare is charged in Austria for 60 
 lbs. of excess luggage; in Bavaria, for 50 lbs.; in 
 France for 62 lbs.; in Switzerland for 52 lbs.; in 
 Wiirtemburg for 40 lbs. In Belgium and Italy 
 the charges for luggage are very high; no free al- 
 lowance is made, and the extra charges on heavy 
 
OUTFIT OF THE TOURIST. 27 
 
 luggage sometimes exceed the fare of the tourist 
 who travels with it. 
 
 For the ocean passage the tourist must provide 
 himself against high winds, steady and strong 
 winds, cold and balmy winds, sunshine that will 
 burn the face, perhaps, rain and sleet if the year 
 be so timed, and stormy clouds. Hence his cloth- 
 ing should be warm, as the ocean is cool even in 
 summer time, the temperature grows very per- 
 ceptibly colder from New York out, after passing 
 the Gulf Stream. Returning, the reverse is true. 
 The clothing should be ample to guard against 
 chills, for colds, and severe ones, can be contracted 
 on the ocean, notwithstanding the often-repeated 
 assertion that colds cannot be incurred on salt 
 water. 
 
 Outside wraps, shawls, overcoats, caps, hoods, 
 worsted leggins and rugs, are so necessary to pro- 
 tection from the severe weather that the comfort 
 they bring more than compensates for the trou- 
 ble of encumbering one's self with them. Upon 
 reaching port these extra goods can be left until 
 the tourist returns, either at the office of the 
 steamship company or at some hotel in the city 
 where landed. They will be entirely safe in 
 either case. It is well to have some suitable and 
 cheap box-trunk for holding these clothes ; yet 
 they can be simply wrapped together and bound 
 with a strap. Before being thus stored away 
 they should be duly aired that they may be pro- 
 perly dried from the moisture of the sea air. 
 
 As Scotland and England are subject to so 
 much of rain-fall it is a desirable thing for a tour- 
 ist to have with him a thin, light, rubber over- 
 coat and leggins. The light, gossamer rubber 
 cloaks for ladies are very valuable garments. The 
 only safe way to travel in these countries is to go 
 
25 OUTFIT OF THE TOURIST. 
 
 prepared for rain at any time, either with or with- 
 out warning. The English have this saying to 
 tourists in their own country : " If the sun 
 shines take your umbrellas, and if it rains do as 
 you please." It is said that gentlemen can buy 
 their rubber goods generally more reasonably 
 over the water than here, but the ladies' cloaks 
 should be purchased before starting as they can- 
 not be readily found there. These rubber goods 
 are occasionally very convenient while on the 
 ocean, as in the case of a rainy time. 
 
 Tourists possessing the rubber goods really 
 need no umbrellas, yet they are, especially for la- 
 dies, a convenient article. The best umbrella 
 for the traveler is the silk one, of a size which 
 fits it for protection against both rain and sun- 
 shine. Not being wanted on shipboard they are 
 best purchased in Europe when needed. 
 
 Tourists cannot be too well bred in the matter 
 of dressing, either while on shipboard or on land. 
 While neatness and taste are always in order, it 
 certainly looks very vulgar and weak to display 
 fine goods out of time. I have seen costly dress- 
 es thus exhibited on the ship, and soon ruined by 
 coming in contact with some drippings or washes 
 from the machinery. It is said that the sea air is 
 harmful to some of the finer goods, as light col- 
 ored silks. It is customary, perhaps, on board 
 some ships, for a few of the passengers to appear 
 in full dress at the dinner, or table d' hote. This, 
 however, is a fashion which no one, under all the 
 circumstances of an ocean voyage, need be bound 
 to follow, whether the tourist be a lady or gen- 
 tleman. Plain, substantial, well-fitting and ap- 
 pearing, and comfortable clothing is all that need 
 appear on the voyage. This is also all that is de- 
 manded on the land journeys, unless the tourist 
 
OUTFIT OF THE TOURIST. 29 
 
 attends receptions, formal dinners and the like, 
 when the customs of the occasion should be 
 heeded. 
 
 A most valuable and necessary article to pos- 
 sess is a good small field, or large opera-glass — 
 one with strong powers of definition, and of long 
 range of sight. It should have a strap attached 
 by which it can be carried over the shoulder. A 
 pocket-compass is almost invaluable — any cheap 
 one, so that it be tolerably accurate in its work- 
 ings. To be able to determine readily the points 
 of the compass is a great aid to a correct under- 
 standing of the situation when in any given 
 locality. Tourists need shoes or boots that are 
 neither new nor old, but entirely " broken in," 
 so that walking can be done with ease all day 
 upon the stone pavements, if need be, and as is 
 so often the necessity in the cities. Hardly a 
 worse thing can befall a traveler than to be com- 
 pelled to " break " a pair of new boots while out 
 sight-seeing. 
 
 For the land journeys, to guard against the 
 chilliness of the evenings and the mornings, there 
 should be worn all the while clothing good for 
 warmth, including light flannel underwear, and 
 also an extra cape, shawl, or light overcoat should 
 be provided. 
 
 In some of the Continental cities travelers will 
 profit by observing that the resident inhabitants 
 seek the shady side of the streets, of walls, 
 and the like, instead of walking along under 
 the full blaze of the hot sun. 
 
 For the daily traveling, the tourist should have 
 by him no luggage except what he can carry 
 readily in his hand, if he does not care to be 
 annoyed and fretted by anxiety for it, as he is 
 going from point to point rapidly, by all sorts of 
 
30 , OUTFIT OF THE TOURIST. 
 
 conveyances and under all grades of sky. One 
 of the very handiest of articles for carrying hand 
 luggage is a brown linen sack, cylindrical in 
 shape, fifteen or twenty inches long, closed at 
 the ends, opening the whole length, being fur- 
 nished with buttons and button-holes for closing 
 it, and is carried by means of a shawl strap 
 having a handle. This is a kind of omnibus 
 arrangement, that will hold less or more, and 
 almost anything. It is better than a sachel or 
 valise, ordinarily, as it is small if only a little be 
 in it, and it readily expands upon demand. 
 
 Another suggestion is ventured, although it 
 does not appear gallant — it is that in a mixed 
 company of ladies and gentlemen upon a tour, 
 the ladies do their share in caring for the hand 
 luggage. This is quite essential in many of the 
 excursions where there is a crowd to jostle and 
 perplex the tourist, as so often happens in Europe, 
 and no time can be lost to attend to ladies, who 
 should assist rather than hinder expedition upon 
 such occasions. 
 
 It happens not unfrequently in summer time 
 that, during the ocean voyage, the skin of the 
 face literally peels off, leaving the face tender to 
 the touch, the winds, and the rays of the sun, and 
 that sometimes while traveling on the land, espe- 
 cially in the mountain regions, the sun and the 
 winds burn the face. Lotions are needed upon 
 these occasions. The following will be found 
 valuable both as a preventive and' as a cure: 
 Glycerine and camphorated ice. Spectacles of 
 common smoked glass will be found serviceable to 
 protect the eyes on the sea as well as on the land. 
 
 Should the tourist meet a mosquito that should 
 honor him with its bill, he can correct the irritant 
 by bathing the mutilated parts with milk and vin- 
 
OUTFIT OF THE TOURIST. . 3 1 
 
 egar ; the milk to soothe the man and the vinegar 
 to ostracise the beast ! Or else by dissolving 
 carbonate of soda in a little water, warming it 
 over a candle, and applying it to the part that 
 was wounded by the mosquito. As to the fleas 
 of Southern Europe, tourists will find them spry 
 and thirsty — dreadfully blood-thirsty. 
 
 It may be of use to have a small bottle of some 
 medicine which will serve in case of sudden 
 attacks of those diseases which are peculiar to 
 summer, and which are occasioned by changes 
 of diet, climatic influences, and the like. A small 
 pocket-flask of good brandy, called cognac on 
 the Continent, is a valuable article to carry along 
 as a provision against suffering from these 
 attacks, but it must be of the best quality, else it 
 will only aggravate the disease. The following 
 recipe is also one of the very best, and it can be 
 easily prepared by any druggist : Tinct. opii, 
 capsici, rhei co., menth pip., campho. Mix 
 the above in equal parts ; dose, ten to twenty 
 drops in three or four teaspoonfuls of water. In 
 plain terms, take equal parts of tincture of 
 opium, red pepper, rhubarb, peppermint, and 
 camphor, and mix them for use. 
 
 There is another remedy recommended on the 
 Continent: "A simple remedy for cholera and 
 dysentery, used in Syria by the natives, is pow- 
 dered charcoal (made of burnt bread) ; a tea- 
 spoonful of which, in a cup of sugarless coffee, 
 is a good daily dose." 
 
 It is almost needless to caution the tourist 
 about his diet that it be plain, nourishing, plenti- 
 ful, palatable ; that he eat oftener rather than 
 overmuch at a time ; and that he regard the 
 amount of water he drinks. 
 
 It should be noted that drugs are not always of 
 
32 OUTFIT OF THE TOURIST. 
 
 equal degrees of strength. Hence one will be 
 apt to be at a loss regarding the quantity to be 
 taken as a dose, unless he purchases his medicines 
 before leaving home where he is familiar with 
 their strength. 
 
SEA-SICKNESS. $$ 
 
 IX.— Sea-sickness. 
 
 An ocean voyage without sea-sickness is a 
 source of pleasure, rest, and profit. One who has 
 had no experience on the ocean cannot predict 
 how he will be affected by the sea ; therefore, it 
 is wise, whilst determining not to be sea-sick, to 
 provide for possible emergencies. Sea-sickness 
 is a nervous affection. At the first there is a 
 gathering of heated sensations, uncomfortable 
 and perceptible, in the ganglia of the sym- 
 pathetic system of nerves, especially in the 
 centres in the upper portion of the abdomen, 
 where one " feels so " when falling or " teeter- 
 ing ;" the sensations extend rapidly upward to the 
 head, there causing dizziness, heat, and pain ; the 
 salivary glands become suddenly very active ; 
 then the excitement centres in the stomach caus- 
 ing nausea, which is the direct effect of brain dis- 
 turbance. 
 
 The headache is sometimes very distressing, 
 and when accompanied with the nausea, is usu- 
 ally attended with profuse perspiration. The 
 inclination of the patient is to give up efforts at 
 exercise, to lie still and let the ship go. The un- 
 ventilated condition of most ships, unless in 
 pleasant weather when the port-holes can be 
 opened, and the smells — they would be odors on 
 land — from the table, however agreeable at other 
 times, are apt to aggravate sea-sickness. The 
 trembling or vibratory motion of some steamers, 
 which is caused by the resistance that the ocean 
 and the inertia of the vessel offer against the pro- 
 
34 
 
 SEA-SICKNESS. 
 
 pelling power of the machinery, together with 
 the motion produced by the waves, either to 
 make the ship roll, or to roll and pitch as when 
 upon a " chopped " or " cross " sea, these 
 motions are well calculated to promote sea-sick- 
 ness, because they keep up a tendency to concus- 
 sion of the brain with the skull, or an unusual 
 pressure upon various portions thereof. The 
 action of the sea air, united with the motion of the 
 ship, may cause torpidity of the liver. This will 
 induce severe costiveness, which, in time, gives 
 additional energy to the heated state of the head 
 and to the disquieting tendency to dizziness. 
 The motions of the ship may also tend to dis- 
 arrange the system generally by slightly affecting 
 the circulation of the blood. However it may 
 be in detail, it is true that an ocean voyage may, 
 soon after it is begun, very suddenly and per- 
 ceptibly disarrange the functions of the various 
 portions of the human system. 
 
 First of all, then, as to the so-called " cures for 
 sea-sickness:" I think I am quite safe in saying 
 that the only certain and permanent cure for man 
 or beast — I have seen horses sea-sick — is to land 
 and stay landed. But one may recover very 
 readily from its attacks and gradually become 
 free from any further trouble. Many are never 
 subject to it, others are slightly under its discom- 
 fort. The most that can be safely said, probably, 
 is that sea-sickness frequently is temporarily re- 
 lieved, and so far controlled by cautious treat- 
 ment that the voyage will not be without some 
 ease and interest. But the often-repeated words 
 " You will be all the better afterwards be- 
 cause you are sick on the sea," is to me, much 
 like the maxim, " Don't pay too dear for the whis- 
 tle." The voyage ordinarily being only from 
 
SEA-SICKNESS. 35 
 
 ten to twelve or fourteen days in length, accord- 
 ing to the steamer's port of destination, one can 
 endure a little unpleasantness during that time 
 for the sake of the sights of the Old World that 
 await the landing. 
 
 Concerning the treatment of sea-sickness, I can- 
 not pretend to discuss the matter professionally, 
 I only throw out such hints as experience and ob- 
 servation have brought before me. If the tourist 
 should become seriously ill he should call to his 
 aid the physician who is always on board. But 
 the passenger can do much to care for himself, if 
 he be judicious and patient. It is reported upon 
 good authority that the following is taught by 
 some medical colleges : That the tourist, on the 
 evening before sailing, should take, upon going 
 to bed, a ten-grained blue pill, and in the morn- 
 ing before eating, a good-sized dose of seidlitz 
 powders. He should eat a hearty meal, so as to 
 go on board with a full stomach. Mr. Thomas 
 K. Knox gives the following as the result of his 
 experience : " The night before you are to sail, 
 take a blue pill — ten grains — just before going to 
 bed, and when you get up in the morning, take, 
 the first thing, a dose of citrate of magnesia. 
 Then eat your breakfast and go on board, and I 
 will wager four to one that you will not be sea- 
 sick a moment, though the water may be 
 as rough as an Arkansas traveler's manners. 
 I have rigidly followed it every time I have gone 
 to sea since I received it. It has saved me from 
 sea-sickness, which I at my first voyages had to 
 despair." 
 
 The physician of the ship on our return voy- 
 age said to me that passengers make a mistake 
 in not taking a dose of some purgative medicine 
 the first day they start out on the ocean. The 
 
^,6 SEA-SICKNESS. 
 
 captain of the steamer which carried us over said, 
 within my hearing, that passengers eat too much 
 for their health, because there is so sudden a 
 change of exercise and mode of life compared to 
 that on land. This captain recommended the 
 occasional drinking of sea-water when one is sea- 
 sick, and it was suggested to me that if I would 
 take part of a glass before breakfast I would 
 escape the sickness. I took it for a few mornings 
 but without advantage, although other cases were 
 cited where benefits followed its use. A very 
 general saying is that a passenger must never 
 give up to sea-sickness, but must brave it down by 
 sheer force of will. Here I would say that when- 
 ever it requires so much of a strain upon the nerv- 
 ous powers of the patient that it exhausts him 
 to do this, then he had better keep as quiet as pos- 
 sible in order to conserve his strength. One of 
 the very best of states for the semi-invalid is to 
 keep cheerful, hopeful and patient. It is far bet- 
 ter to be around, and upon deck, whenever the 
 weather will permit, than to remain below in the 
 berth. Dr. John Chapman's rubber ice-bag is a 
 good article to have in case of severe sea-sickness. 
 Yet it is a very powerful remedy and should be 
 used with caution, lest too much ice be applied to 
 the spine and permanent harm come therefrom. 
 The effect of the use of it is to tone up gradually 
 the whole nervous system so that one feels 
 stronger. One application of the bag will leave 
 its effects from two to three hours. The bag is 
 somewhat expensive, costing from four to five dol- 
 lars in London. The Philadelphia agents are J. 
 Wardon Wilson, Jr., and Wyeth Bro's. It is well 
 to be provided with smelling salts and camphor 
 (liquid). Chloroform is sometimes recommended 
 — from two to five drops on a piece of sugar, 
 
SEA-SICKNESS. 37 
 
 taken when sick. I have but little faith in it, be- 
 sides it is a dangerous medicine, unless adminis- 
 tered by a physician. One gentlemen on the 
 ship had entire confidence in this recipe of chloro- 
 form as a sure cure, and yet he was the one man 
 who was severely seasick nearly all the way over; 
 he never came to his " sea leg," while on the 
 voyage." 
 
 Another preventive is said to be a compress, or 
 strap with a pad attached, bound about the body, 
 the pad being placed over the pit of the stomach 
 so as to crowd the bile downwards, thus prevent- 
 ing costiveness. My only knowledge of this is, 
 that it was worn at times by a gentleman, and 
 still he was not wholly free from sea-sickness; how- 
 ever, the compress may have helped him. In any 
 event it is an innocent experiment. Lemons are 
 good; some of the juice taken before breakfast 
 will assist to relieve the biliousness which is so 
 prevalent during a voyage. Brandy is a bad 
 stimulant because of its astringent qualities. 
 Ginger ale is often good for warming the stom- 
 ach and thus exciting a healthy action of the 
 digestive organs. Champagne, claret, and port- 
 wine, cooled with ice, taken at meal time, are 
 sometimes serviceable to counteract sea-sickness. 
 The further remark is ventured that too much in 
 the way of medicine is apt to be taken rather 
 than too little. 
 
 It is desirable that the passenger should have a 
 supply of some active anti-bilious pills or seidlitz 
 powders to guard against biliousness and costive- 
 ness. Ordinarily it seems to require, on the sea, 
 a much larger portion of these medicines for an 
 effective dose than when on land. The passenger 
 should be at very great pains to keep himself well 
 bathed by a hand bath every morning, especially 
 
38 SEA-SICKNESS. 
 
 if he suffers from sea-sickness, as the perspiration 
 attending this sickness is usually very profuse, as 
 well as disagreeable in odor. Sea-water baths 
 can be had on most ships. 
 
 While on deck, if unable to sit upright, or to 
 stand or walk, it will be found advantageous to 
 lie flat down upon the back, being careful to place 
 the head towards the bow of the boat. This is a 
 wise precaution as to position at any time when 
 seasick. Too much mental exertion aggravates 
 sea-sickness, and sometimes is the immediate occa- 
 sion of it. I do not recommend a timid, fearful 
 spirit, but a wise judgment in relation to exer- 
 cise. It will be a disadvantage to overtax one's 
 strength at any time. 
 
 While it is not necessary to carry a camp chair, 
 there being usually a plentiful supply on the ship, 
 yet an easy chair that will fold up, called a steam- 
 boat chair, is a great luxury for a person to have 
 on deck when he is disturbed by illness. 
 
 There is this comfort attending sea-sickness — 
 one is not made to feel that he is not " welcome 
 at home " because he is sick; for everybody expects 
 everybody else to be sick, and hence there is no 
 surprise manifested whether one is sick or well — 
 it is all the same. 
 
BOARDING THE SHIP. 39 
 
 X. — Boarding* the Ship. 
 
 Suppose the tifne arrived for the ship to start : 
 Try to reach New York, if that be the port of 
 sailing, the previous day ; the baggage can be 
 sent by some city express to the docks of the 
 steamship company at which place the tourist 
 will find it. All luggage that can be carried in 
 his hand he will take to his hotel, in order to 
 insure its safety. After breakfast on the morning 
 of sailing, or at any corresponding time, be at the 
 dock in ample season to see that the baggage is 
 all right. The official in waiting will ask, " Will 
 this baggage be wanted on shipboard ?" If the 
 tourist have clothes or articles that he wishes to 
 use on the ship, he will say, "Wanted." The 
 official will then paste a label, " Wanted," on the 
 trunk. This means that the owner will find this 
 baggage, with that of others, upon deck when the 
 ship starts, and it will not be put down into the hold 
 until after he has taken out what he desires. If 
 the trunk is small and there is space for it in his 
 state-room he can have it placed there to remain 
 during the voyage. It is a wise precaution that 
 the tourist should assure himself b) r personal 
 inspection that his baggage is surely labeled and 
 taken on board. In some cases this is necessary, 
 as : "Observe — 'The Owners of the London and 
 New York Steamers, and London and St. Katha- 
 rine Dock Company do not hold themselves re- 
 sponsible for Baggage, nor do they allow any 
 Baggage to be shipped unless the Passenger be 
 present.' The Passengers must therefore attend 
 
40 BOARDING THE SHIP. 
 
 on Saturday the inst., at two o'clock, to see 
 
 their Baggage put on board." This work of put- 
 ting on board is done by the company, the pas- 
 senger simply observing that there is no mistake 
 about it. In some instances it happens that the 
 company orders all heavy baggage to be delivered 
 at the quay or docks the day before sailing, in 
 order to expedite the business of casting off the 
 ship. Be on the lookout for this. Each cabin 
 passenger is allowed about twenty cubic feet of 
 space for his baggage, free from charges. Usu- 
 ally, at the time of going on board for sailing, 
 the officials distribute a printed list of the pas- 
 sengers who go out in that ship. In due time the 
 gang-boards are thrown off, the gates in the bul- 
 warks are closed, the hawsers are hauled in, the 
 captain and the pilot take their places upon the 
 bridge, the first officer at the bow, the second at 
 the stern, the third amid-ships, and the fourth on 
 the quarter-deck. The captain signals the engin- 
 eer below, the immense engines instinctively start, 
 the water shows agitation at the stern of the ship, 
 the dock recedes, the ship is off for its three thou- 
 sand nautical miles of ocean passage. In an hour 
 or two the pilot leaves the ship, being taken by a 
 row-boat to the pilot vessel; if desired, letters 
 may be sent ashore by him. The captain now is 
 alone in charge of the steamer, and continues 
 thus until he shares his command with the pilot 
 upon entering the port across the Atlantic. If 
 all goes well the propeller of the ship will revolve 
 uniformly and without cessation during all of 
 these many miles over the sea. 
 
OCEAN VOYAGE. 4 1 
 
 XI. — Ocean Voyage. 
 
 The tourist being now outward bound, there 
 will be a general looking after matters in the 
 state-rooms. It is also usual to arrange early for 
 the meal that is to follow first after starting. It 
 will be important to a passenger, if he be under 
 sea-sickness, to have a seat at the end of some 
 table, called a corner seat, or at some place 
 which he can readily and suddenly leave, in case 
 it should seem best at any time. Revolving 
 chairs are being introduced into the dining- 
 saloons of some of the newer steamships, and 
 they are a great gain to the comfort of the pas- 
 sengers. It will be necessary for the passenger to 
 be promptly on the alert for his seat, else the 
 old voyagers will have control of all the choice 
 seats before he is aware of it. Sometimes it is 
 customary for a person to place his card on the 
 table at the seat which he desires, but this must be 
 watched if there be many passengers, lest some one 
 remove it. Frequently one can engage the chief 
 steward on the day before sailing to reserve a 
 given seat for him ; this is a good way, if it be 
 practicable to go on board that day. If this be 
 done it will be essential that the steward be 
 remembered in a fee. In case of anything being 
 wrong about the seating, the tourist applies to 
 the chief steward as final umpire. When the 
 bell rings for the meal, be prompt at the table 
 and at the seat selected, which is to be retained 
 during the voyage, unless changed by approval of 
 the steward. 
 
42 OCEAN VOYAGE. 
 
 The meals are served to cabin passengers 
 at about the following hours, in summer 
 time : Breakfast at 8 A. M., or in some cases 
 from 7:30 A. M. to 9:30 A. M.; lunch at 12 
 M.; dinner, the regular table d'hote and the prin- 
 cipal meal of the day, at 4 P. M.; tea at 7 P. M.; 
 supper from 8:30 P. M. to 10 P. M., upon order. 
 Besides these meals, and according to the line of 
 steamers, oatmeal porridge or coffee is usually 
 served in the morning at 6:30 o'clock or at 7 
 o'clock. This porridge can be had at the dining- 
 saloon, or it will be brought to one's state-room 
 by the bedroom steward or by the stewardess, as 
 the case may be, provided such an arrangement 
 has been made by the passenger. For these 
 extra services a fee will be expected at the 
 end of the voyage. If you discover that you will 
 probably be seasick, arrange at once with the 
 bedroom steward or with the stewardess to care 
 for you in all that you may want, to bring your 
 meals to you in your room, or to the deck, 
 wherever you may be, and to serve you as you 
 may desire. At the end of the voyage pay 
 according to the amount of extra service ren- 
 dered you, from a sovereign or five dollars, 
 downwards. The days will go steadily by, and, if 
 the tourist is not sick, a voyage across the 
 Atlantic in summer time is a real pleasure. The 
 tourist can go out among the sailors in the fore- 
 castle, when probably some one of them will 
 stoop down and suddenly draw a chalk mark on 
 his shoe. This calls for a treat from the passen- 
 ger. He is expected to follow the custom of the 
 sea, so he gives the sailor who marked him a 
 piece of money, anywhere from twenty-five cents 
 to a dollar, as he pleases. After this he has the 
 run of the deck scot-free, all the sailors now 
 
OCEAN VOYAGE. 43 
 
 knowing him as having earned his liberty. If 
 the passenger go down into the furnace regions, 
 among the blackened and sweltering firemen 
 who shovel daily into the maws of Hades fifty, 
 sixty, eighty, one hundred tons of coal, he will be 
 chalked again. He will pay as before with like 
 subsequent freedom. 
 
 The sailors are busy people, always at work 
 when on their relays ; they paint and repair the 
 ship's rigging, they scrape the masts, and they 
 scrub the deck at early dawn to the evident dis- 
 gust of the drowsy sleepers below. 
 
 The tourist will see signs placarded here and 
 there by which he will be instructed in relation to 
 certain limitations of talking with the officers 
 and men while on duty. Lights are put out at 
 night from 10:30 to 11:30 o'clock, according to 
 the regulations of the company. Should lights 
 be absolutely needed in the state-room after the 
 hours for extinguishing them, inquiries in regard 
 to the matter should be made of the captain of 
 the ship. The passage tickets are collected by the 
 purser a few days after starting out from port. 
 Should the tourist need some pocket-change in 
 the denomination of the money of the country in 
 which he is to land, he can obtain it of the pur- 
 ser or of the chief steward, one of whom has 
 charge of the bar. 
 
 The passenger should early attend to the bells 
 which mark the watches, and learn to note the 
 time indicated by them. One stroke is given at 
 the end of each half hour — the watch is four 
 hours long, except at 6 P. M., called the " dog- 
 watch," when there is a break. In detail the case 
 is thus : The watch begins at 12 M., which is 
 past, suppose, then at 12:30 P. M., one bell is 
 struck ; at 1 P. M., two bells ; 1:30 P. M., three 
 
44 OCEAN VOYAGE. 
 
 bells ; at 2 P. M., four bells; at 2:30 P. M., five 
 bells ; at 3 P. M., six bells ; at 3:30 P. M., seven 
 bells ; at 4 P. M., eight bells, which is the highest 
 ever struck on the watch ; at 4:30 P. M., one bell; 
 at 5 P. M., two bells ; at 5:30 P. M., three bells ; 
 at 6 P. M., four bells, the beginning of the "dog- 
 watch"; at 6:30 P. M., being in the dog-watch, one 
 bell only; at 7 P. M., two bells; at 7:30 P. M., 
 three bells ; at 8 P. M., eight bells again. Then 
 the bells are struck regularly up to eight strokes 
 until the next evening at 6 o'clock. The regular 
 watches are at 12 o'clock, 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock. 
 The dog-watch breaks up the time for the relays 
 so that the same company of men and officers do 
 not have to serve at the same hours every night. 
 Usually there are religious services on the Sab- 
 bath, and sometimes every evening, especially if 
 there are clergymen on board. Some of the cap- 
 tains read the Sabbath services ; some say grace 
 at the table when they are present at the begin- 
 ning of the meals. On Sundays or on other days, 
 collections are taken among the passengers for the 
 support of various benevolent institutions con- 
 nected in some manner with the sea-service. May 
 I be pardoned a word to the clergymen who may 
 preach on shipboard ? It is this : It does not 
 seem wise or necessary to preach about the dan- 
 gers of the ocean when upon it — to magnify the 
 perils of the sea, in order to be effective. This 
 seems hardly judicious. At a prayer meeting in 
 the saloon, I heard a gentleman say that there 
 was only a thin board between us and eternity — 
 the waves were washing loudly against the sides 
 of the ship while he was talking. The bedroom 
 steward who was present exclaimed quickly, 
 " Thank God, it is a thick plank." He uttered the 
 sentiment that did us all the most good then. 
 
OCEAN VOYAGE. 45 
 
 One night in a dense fog, a large sailing vessel 
 collided with our steamship ; by a good Provi- 
 dence we just escaped the wrecking of our ship, 
 the passengers were in a quiet state, but very sol- 
 emn. The minister on the following Sabbath only 
 just alluded to the dangers of the ocean, and 
 some of the passengers were fairly driven into a 
 fright at the words. This is an unnecessary ago- 
 nizing of the feelings. Clergymen are to be hon- 
 ored, but sometimes a little wisdom of the com- 
 mon world is not out of place. 
 
 As to occupations and amusements there will 
 probably be plenty of them to pass away the 
 time very pleasantly. Should the passenger be 
 free from sea-sickness, and so desire, he may 
 read, but he is not recommended to do so on 
 the first voyage ; he will find it more profitable 
 to study the ship and the parts of it, as the quar- 
 ter-deck, the forecastle, the companion ways, the 
 saloon, the gunwale, the masts, the sails, the bin- 
 nacle, the machinery for steering, the mode of 
 throwing out the ashes from the furnaces, the 
 wheel-house, the shrouds, the various decks, the 
 hold, the construction of the life-boats, what is 
 the meaning of the name which appears so often 
 upon the small boats in addition to that 
 of the name of the ship, the propeller, 
 the manner of hoisting the sails, and last 
 but not least, what the " donkey-engine " is, 
 keeping clear of the "donkey" in it; the 
 sailors, the other passengers, the sea, the sky, 
 the whole little and great world then in view. 
 The games and diversions are : Shuffle-board, 
 Neptune races, ordinary races, singing, flirting 
 and exchanging autograph albums, dancing, 
 smoking, cards, pools on the daily rate of the 
 running of the ship, wines, suppers, promenad- 
 
46 OCEAN VOYAGE. 
 
 ing, conundrums, puns, stories of adventure 
 according to fancy, concerts, literary exercises, 
 " Mrs. Jarley's Wax- Works," personal reminis- 
 cences. It is usually the case that passengers 
 are more sociable and homogeneous when going 
 over to Europe than when returning to America ; 
 this is remarked by many. On the return the 
 passengers are more apt to break up into groups, 
 which are exclusive centres unto themselves. 
 Tourists should be prepared to take a part in 
 those sociable entertainments which are wisely 
 calculated to enhance the general happiness, 
 welfare, and homelike feeling of the company. 
 At the risk of being called dogmatic, I wish to 
 say candidly to persons who are out upon the 
 ocean for the first time, that they may safely 
 assume that the officers of the ship understand 
 their business without any suggestions. This re- 
 mark is ventured because all passengers are not 
 equally credulous in the ability of the officers. I 
 knew one gentleman who, on hearing some un- 
 usual noise of the machinery, hastened to tell the 
 engineer of it, with advice as to how it could be 
 stopped! Another passenger saw a ship over the 
 bow of the boat not far away, and thought it best 
 to start off rapidly to tell the captain of it in 
 order to prevent a collision! While the officers 
 and seamen are generally very courteous and 
 solicitous for the comfort of the passengers, it 
 should never be forgotten that they should not 
 be annoyed by needless questions and perplexing 
 complaints. If the officers are under obligations 
 to the passengers, they are equally entitled to a 
 reciprocal attention. Executive officers must be 
 habitually thoughtful, and this usually makes 
 them reticent when on duty. 
 
 One other point I would make to tourists : 
 
OCEAN VOYAGE. 47 
 
 That a sea-voyage is no time for displaying spe- 
 cial spheres or crotchets, nor for uttering hypo- 
 chondriac fears, nor for moaning with constant 
 sighs over the imaginable dangers that are in the 
 way, nor for making one's self and all the rest 
 miserable by reason of constant dissatisfaction and 
 fault-finding. 
 
 Among the items of interest to a tourist on 
 his first voyage are these : The meeting of other 
 ships and signaling them ; seeing icebergs occa- 
 sionally, and whales, sharks, dolphins, porpoises, 
 sea-birds on tireless wing ever and anon riding 
 the waves ; the petrels and sea-gulls which 
 often show great perseverance in following the 
 ship far out to sea in order to find any stray 
 crumbs of food which may chance to be cast out 
 upon the water. It is remarked by some that 
 sea-gulls never show their blind faith and lack of 
 wit so fully as when they follow ships of certain 
 nationalities, notable for their economy, under 
 the vain expectation that anything for them to 
 eat will ever be thrown overboard from those 
 ships. 
 
 The tourist will note the decreasing length of 
 the days as he sails eastward, and the increasing 
 as he travels westward on his return voyage. He 
 will regard the long days in the high latitudes 
 in the summer season and the reverse in 
 winter; the sailors casting the log every two 
 hours; the taking account of the temperature of 
 the water; the observations made by the officers 
 in order to determine the exact daily latitude and 
 longitude of the ship, and to estimate the dis- 
 tance over which the ship has passed since noon 
 of the day previous ; to study the storms, the 
 heavens, the ever receding and approaching hor- 
 izons ; to ride the billows and the troughs of the 
 
48 OCEAN VOYAGE. 
 
 sea — all these are full of deep interest to the 
 tourist. 
 
 But the sympathies of the passengers are all 
 aroused when, far out at sea, some land-bird with 
 strength fairly expended, which has strayed and 
 become wholly lost in its reckonings, alights 
 upon the ship and immediately goes to sleep 
 from exhaustion. This gives some idea of the 
 extent of the ocean, and of its unfriendly and 
 inhospitable wastes. 
 
 The days of the greatest official vigilance are 
 those in which the dense fogs off the Banks of 
 Newfoundland enshroud the ship in impene- 
 trable mist ; the fog whistle is blown every 
 minute or two, for days and nights together 
 sometimes ; the new passenger will awake in the 
 morning, or in the night it may be, and the 
 whistle will impress him for the moment that he 
 is just coming into a station on a sleeping-car, 
 but soon he realizes that he is in the midst of the 
 troubled deep. 
 
 As the vessel approaches the pier, the passen- 
 gers show themselves upon deck, their ship attire 
 generally exchanged for their shore clothes. The 
 steamer having finally settled herself at her dock 
 to rest from her long and weary journey, the pas- 
 sage-ways being thrown up, the passengers 
 hasten to bid each other good-bye, their hearts 
 fairly sad that the separation, although anxiously 
 anticipated, has come so soon. 
 
ENTERING THE PORT OF DESTINATION. 49 
 
 XII. — Entering the Port of Destination. 
 
 Upon approaching port the ship is boarded by 
 a pilot who comes out to meet it, and the health 
 officer who inspects it at the quarantine station, 
 and should the ship carry mails, the official barge 
 will probably come out for them at this station in 
 order to expedite their delivery. These officers 
 bring newspapers, the passengers eagerly crowd 
 around the lucky man to get sight of this intelli- 
 gent visitor. How welcome is the paper to us so 
 long without it! If the ship comes to quarantine 
 at night, it seldom leaves before daylight the next 
 morning. Shortly before reaching port the cus- 
 toms officers usually arrive, and sometimes the 
 baggage is examined by them before it is put off 
 the ship. 
 
 The passenger should surely see that all his 
 pieces of baggage are gathered together at some 
 convenient place, in order that the examining offi- 
 cer shall be at the least amount of time and trouble 
 in the discharge of his duties. The customs 
 examination is a simple affair to an honest 
 passenger who readily opens his trunks and 
 portmanteaus, and answers frankly the questions 
 put to him by the officer. In connection with 
 this matter, and at the risk of being thought 
 unkind, I may be permitted to hint to tourists 
 that it is a matter of grave inconvenience, and 
 often of risk to them, to carry orders from friends 
 for purchases to be made in Europe. Examina- 
 tions being done, the pieces are closed and the 
 officer marks upon them with chalk some weird 
 
50 ENTERING THE PORT OF DESTINATION. 
 
 symbols which prevent their further detention. 
 English customs officers frequently examine only 
 one.out of three pieces of luggage, or two out of 
 six. 
 
 At New York the officers come on board the 
 ship before it arrives at the pier. One of the 
 officers brings blanks which he fills out according 
 to the statement of each passenger, as to the 
 number of pieces of luggage and dutiable articles 
 in his possession, and hands to each person a 
 slip of paper on which is the corresponding 
 number of his blank, which, as soon as com- 
 pleted, is handed to a second officer, if there be 
 one, who calls upon the passenger by number to 
 testify that this statement is " true to the best of 
 his knowledge and belief." This is all until the 
 baggage is landed upon the dock and taken into 
 the enclosure. The passenger first sees that his 
 different pieces are all placed together, as before 
 stated, and then goes to the front, where stands 
 an officer with all the filled-out and numbered 
 blanks. On presenting his numbered slip, the 
 officer finds the corresponding blank, hands it to 
 a sub-officer and directs liim to go at once and 
 examine that baggage. The pieces should be 
 rapidly opened for inspection, as time is valuable 
 in the hurry and scurry of these occasions. The 
 examination finished and the luggage chalked, 
 the tourist is at liberty to take it away. No fees 
 are due any customs officers for this labor. For 
 the Custom-House Regulations for the Conti- 
 nental ports, note the following : 
 
 " Passengers, on landing, are not permitted to 
 take more than one small bag with them on 
 shore. The Custom-House Porters who are re- 
 sponsible for its safety, convey it direct from the 
 vessel to the Custom-House, where the owner, to 
 
ENTERING THE PORT OF DESTINATION. 5 1 
 
 save personal attendance, had better send the 
 Hotel Commissionaire afterwards with the keys. 
 The Commissionaire will also obtain the neces- 
 sary official signature of the police to the trav- 
 eler's passport. The landlord of the inn is 
 responsible for his honesty. When passing your 
 own luggage you will find that at no time are 
 courtesy and good-humor better repaid than 
 during its examination. Never be in a hurry ; 
 collect your packages and open them one by one 
 yourself ; lock one before the next is ' visited.' 
 The officers are only doing their duty, and can 
 make that duty very disagreeable in return for 
 any hauteur or want of courtesy. Always 
 ' declare ' any article you believe liable to duty, 
 and remember that every Custom-House Officer 
 abroad can search your person if he chooses. 
 
 " All articles such as wearing apparel, not 
 having been worn, must be declared at the Custom- 
 House. Travelers not conforming to this regula- 
 tion, will incur not only the confiscation of the 
 articles not declared, but also the payment of a 
 fine. Silks, lace, and other foreign goods, 
 packed with articles of apparel, or otherwise 
 concealed, are, as well as the articles in which 
 they may be placed, liable to seizure ; and 
 travelers are warned that the seizure is strictly 
 enforced, unless the examining officer is informed 
 of the articles being in the package and the 
 goods duly declared previously to its being 
 opened." 
 
FINDING A HOTEL AFTER LANDING. 
 
 XIII.— Finding a Hotel after Landing. 
 
 It is assumed that the passenger, being an 
 American, already knows how to reach the hotels 
 or railroad depots upon landing at New York. 
 
 But suppose him landed in Europe, as at 
 Glasgow. Here he finds porters who offer to 
 carry his baggage ; " barrow-men " who have a 
 moderately-sized two-wheeled hand-cart called 
 a barrow, and are licensed for transporting 
 goods about the city, being obliged by law to 
 produce the number by which they are officially 
 registered whenever called upon for it ; cabs, 
 upon the top of which is the sign " engaged " or 
 " disengaged." He should select his hotel before 
 reaching the city ; and during all his travels it 
 would be well to know beforehand the hotels at 
 which he wishes to stop. If he engage one of the 
 porters to transfer his luggage to the hotel he 
 should clearly specify the price at the time of 
 engaging ; if he take a cab he can ride with his 
 baggage at about the same expense as if he sent 
 it alone. 
 
 To prevent misunderstanding, and to guard 
 against extortion, it is well to take a note of the 
 number which is always in full view upon the 
 cab. It should be borne in mind that cab-drivers 
 do not handle baggage except to place it when 
 lifted up to them, and to hand it down, for it is 
 not their business — the lifters and carriers are 
 the porters; and at the hotels, sometimes the 
 " boots." 
 
 If the tourist secure a barrow he should see his 
 
FINDING A HOTEL AFTER LANDING. 53 
 
 luggage placed on the cart, and ask for the 
 barrow-man's number, and on being assured 
 that it will be delivered within a specified time, 
 suppose an hour, he can take his course on foot 
 to the hotel. In due time the luggage is received 
 at the office and the man is paid his stipulated 
 price. 
 
 In general, in Europe, a traveler depends upon 
 a cab to take himself and his baggage to a hotel, 
 for he does not find the express-delivery compa- 
 nies, as in New York. 
 
54 EUROPEAN HOTELS. 
 
 XIV. — European Hotels. 
 
 In general, European hotels, frequently called, 
 in England by the old name of inns, 
 are institutions by themselves. Many of 
 them are entered from the street through arched 
 passage-ways, some of which lead to an inner 
 court often decorated with flowers and fountains. 
 Both ladies and gentlemen enter by the same 
 passage, there being no " ladies' entrance " as in 
 our hotels. Perhaps the first impression upon 
 entering the ordinary European hotel will be that 
 it is small and crowded ; the entrance hall is 
 narrow and short, and it does not open into large 
 spaces anywhere ; it will be a query where the 
 office is located, as well as where you can be 
 lodged in that house, but further acquaintance 
 will reveal its liberal capacity. The theory upon 
 which hotels are conducted is that they are large 
 private boarding-houses to which the public are 
 allowed access. They are private in this, that 
 there is no mingling of guests as in our hotels ; 
 there is not the common large parlor, the large 
 office, the general dining-room, exclusively such. 
 This is true with the great majority of hotels 
 which the ordinary tourist meets, yet in some of 
 them he will find the parlor, the smoking-room, 
 the commercial-room, but the bar-room as it 
 exists in the United States is rarely found, if at 
 all. The wines and liquors are served at meals 
 in the dining-room, or they can be ordered to the 
 smoking-room, the commercial-room, or the 
 private room. 
 
EUROPEAN HOTELS. 55 
 
 With rare exceptions, guests are not called 
 upon to register their names at the hotels in Scot- 
 land, England or Ireland. The people travel as 
 private individuals ; they do not desire their 
 names to be heralded, they prefer quiet. 
 The landlord is a serving-man and he feels that 
 it is a delicate matter to ask a stranger his name 
 and residence, for perhaps he prefers to remain 
 unknown. The tourist occasionally may be 
 asked to register, or he may see lying on a side- 
 table in the entrance-hall or waiting-room a book 
 labeled " Visitors' Book," and the posted notice, 
 "Visitors will please register their names," or 
 " Guests will please write their names in the 
 Visitors' Book." But this registration is no essen- 
 tial part of the hotel requirements, all the 
 identity the guest need have is the number of his 
 room. However, in Germany, especially, a 
 stranger entering a hotel or boarding-house is 
 required to give his name, nationality, and place 
 of residence, and this information is handed at 
 once to the police department; this fact causes 
 the tourist to feel singularly haunted by official 
 eyes, even though he is wholly unknown there- 
 abouts. By this system it is easy to inquire of 
 the Chief of Police of any city if such a man is 
 stopping therein. 
 
 In Europe it is almost universally understood 
 that engaging a room at a hotel is engaging 
 nothing else, unless it be particularly specified. 
 The only exception that comes to my mind is the 
 Cockburn Hotel in Edinburgh, which charges 
 eleven English shillings per day, everything 
 included, as in the United States. A tourist can 
 therefore engage a room, and then take his meals 
 at the hotel, or at any place that may suit his 
 convenience. This course will be much more 
 
56 EUROPEAN HOTELS. 
 
 economical, as well as quite as satisfactory, often 
 times, to his wishes for table-board. 
 
 The person who conducts the house is termed 
 the manager, who may or may not be the 
 proprietor — if the manager be a lady, as is often 
 the case, she is called the landlady — and the 
 " office" with us, is the "manager's room " in the 
 Islands, and the " Bureau " on the Continent. 
 Upon entering a hotel the 'Stranger tourist, occa- 
 sionally, may be received by so many men and 
 women in full dress that he will be at a loss to 
 know whom to address for a room. But making 
 his desire known, the manager will select one or 
 more of his retinue-in-waiting to assign him a 
 room immediately. For instance, in the entrance- 
 hall of some of the English hotels we were met 
 by the landlady and several of the servants, and 
 on our asking for a room the landlady gave 
 instructions to a woman, who directed the cham- 
 bermaid to conduct us to our room, and the 
 " boots " or the porter, if we had occasion for his 
 assistance, followed with the luggage, which he 
 placed upon the "trunk-stool," an article fre- 
 quently found in British hotels. 
 
 The prices of rooms per day vary in most of 
 the hotels according to their size and the " flat " 
 upon which they are situated. In engaging a 
 room the price, as well as what is included, 
 should be definitely understood, so that no 
 disagreement may afterward arise about the 
 terms. In Britain, lights and soap are furnished 
 with the room, but on the Continent they are not 
 supplied unless ordered, and then at an extra 
 cost. To avoid the charge of twenty cents for a 
 candle or a piece of soap, the traveler will find it 
 an economy to provide himself with these 
 articles; also with matches, in Southern Europe. 
 
EUROPEAN HOTELS. 57 
 
 When he does this, he should so specify at the time 
 of engaging his room. "Service," or "attendance," 
 is always a separate item in the bill. This 
 inquiry should also be made : " How much time 
 shall constitute a hotel day ?" That is, by what 
 hour of the day must the room be given up by 
 the guest when he goes away, in order that he 
 shall not be charged for an extra day. The time 
 in many hotels is by n A. M. Provided a 
 company of tourists desire accommodations it 
 would be well, in order to insure rooms, to engage 
 them by letter a few days before required. 
 
 The hotel beds demand attention. In the 
 British Islands there is so much moisture in the 
 atmosphere nearly all of the year that beds are 
 often damp. The sheets in many hotels are of 
 linen ; if damp, they are more than ordinarily 
 chilling so that great watchfulness must be 
 exercised if one would escape a cold, rheumatism, 
 neuralgia, cramps, or chills. Usually there 
 are also a pair of excellent soft woolen blankets 
 on the beds, and it is far better to lie between 
 these than to risk the sheets if there be any ap- 
 pearance of dampness about them. The fact 
 that the beds may have been made up for a long 
 time, and so left unoccupied and unaired, makes 
 the matter far worse. 
 
 The English and Scotch bedsteads are, in 
 many cases, very large — nearly as wide as they 
 are long, with high corner-posts and frames for 
 hangings, and furnished with mattresses, with or 
 without springs. An English bed, in some of the 
 inland town hotels, is really quite a royal institu- 
 tion. On the Continent generally, the beds are 
 single, and rooms can be secured containing one, 
 two, or more of these, which are composed of 
 either mattresses or feathers. The coverings 
 
58 EUROPEAN HOTELS. 
 
 sometimes include a coverlet of silk or cotton 
 filled with feathers or down, French hotels are 
 often provided with double beds with hangings, 
 somewhat after the manner of the English beds. 
 The rooms in European hotels are generally well 
 supplied with wardrobes, and there is no lack of 
 mirrors — many of the rooms having at least two, 
 one of which stands upon a bureau with its back 
 directly in front of a window. The tourist will 
 see bell-call knobs in the entrance-hall, or in the 
 upper-halls, labeled, "Chambermaid" or "C 
 maid," "Porter," " Boots," "Ostler," although in 
 England, usually, each room is provided with its 
 own bell. 
 
 Especially in Scotland and England there are 
 many hotels in which the rooms are locked or 
 bolted from the inside only, and when the guest 
 is absent from his room his goods are necessarily 
 exposed to inspection and theft ; but one seldom 
 feels, for some reason, any solicitude because of 
 this. Instead, there is a feeling of confidence 
 that nothing will be disturbed, which feeling is 
 rarely abused. It is the exception to see any 
 posted notice in the rooms warning guests of the 
 danger of theft, and giving specific directions for 
 the care of valuables as is the case in American 
 hotels. But when the doors can be locked from 
 the outside the occupant, on leaving his room, 
 should have a care always to lock the door and 
 to leave the key with the manager. In the Con- 
 tinental hotels the key should be hung under the 
 number of the room upon the key-board, which 
 is placed conspicuously near the manager's office. 
 If this be done the proprietor is responsible for 
 the safety of the articles left in the room, other- 
 wise not. In European hotels one seldom finds a 
 cloak-room where he can obtain checks for coats, 
 
EUROPEAN HOTELS. 59 
 
 wraps, and hand luggage; these are left with the 
 porter, if not in one's room. 
 
 The dining-room, called the " Coffee Room " 
 in Britain, is often a more homelike room than 
 that of our hotels, being furnished with a more 
 or less elaborate side-board, chairs, tables, writing 
 materials, guide books, railway time-tables, and 
 occasionally is well ordered in busts, mirrors and 
 pictures, in some valuable books of travel, history, 
 or literature and newspapers, although the 
 American hotel reading-room with its full supply 
 of the leading newspapers is rarely found. Very 
 often are added carpets, large easy -chairs, sofas, 
 couches, and racks for hats, wraps and the like. 
 At Markgraf s Hotel de l'Europe, in Berlin, the 
 books of the manager and his clerk were in the 
 dining-room. 
 
 The table servants in all hotels of any preten- 
 sions are always men, who are clad in full dress 
 of swallow-tailed cloth coat, white necktie, and 
 they lack only gloves (which they are said to 
 wear sometimes) and hat to be in full costume. 
 They are very active ; they will make more mo- 
 tions, show more attentive activity, and accom- 
 plish less actual business than perhaps any other 
 class of persons whom it is one's pleasure or for- 
 tune to meet. These waiters are liberal in their 
 labors ; one of them will frequently go entirely 
 across the dining-room for a knife to place at 
 your plate ; then he will go back and bring a 
 fork, and he has been known to come and change 
 them for others, one at a time. When a table is 
 full of hungry tourists, one will start to serve )'Ou, 
 but, being stopped by another guest to inquire 
 when he can be waited upon, you may possibly 
 be served after the demands of two or three other 
 persons are attended to ; the last one who attacks 
 
60 EUROPEAN HOTELS. 
 
 him has always the greatest probability of receiv- 
 ing his attentions. A crowd of demands is usually 
 too much for the majority of waiters, and real 
 pleasure is attained at the hotel only when a 
 guest or two can alone command the entire ser- 
 vices of one waiter. This phase of hotel life is a 
 curious study ; this fussiness and delay and vex- 
 ation arise from the very system itself. Each 
 waiter must keep a correct account of what he 
 serves to each guest, if it be anything out of the 
 regular course. It is the almost universal prac- 
 tice for Europeans to order extras, particularly 
 wines, at each meal. The waiters serve these 
 extras, taking a note of the number of the room 
 occupied by the guest, and what he orders, thereby 
 delaying the other guests, for the waiters seem 
 absolutely confused by the multitude of orders. 
 I often thought that if one of these waiters should 
 be suddenly called upon to assist in one of the 
 New York eating-houses during the busy hours, 
 he would go stone crazy from sheer confusion of 
 his mental inelasticity. 
 
 Tourists must assign from one hour to one 
 hour and a half from the time that it is " on," to 
 every regular dinner or table d'hote of which 
 they partake. The hour set for this meal varies 
 from .2 p. m. to 6 p. m. A table d'hote is a fixed 
 institution. The waiters act under orders from 
 the waiter-in-chief or butler who is in charge of 
 affairs. This is the state meal of the day, and hence 
 the dress-parade of the establishment, guests and 
 all. To cite a particular instance, somewhat 
 typical : The guests sit side by side at long and 
 usually wide tables ; the dishes and glasses are 
 numberless ; napkins and a little piece of bread 
 are at each plate ; the bills of fare are as plenty 
 as at the rate of one to every fifteen or twenty 
 
EUROPEAN HOTELS. 6l 
 
 guests. The signal is given by the waiter-in- 
 chief, and the waiters hasten to serve plates of 
 soup — guests who desire wines now begin to 
 order them — the soup being finished by all, the 
 plates are removed ; the waiter brings fish ; per- 
 haps more wine is ordered ; fish plates removed, 
 and clean plates distributed ; meats, as mutton, 
 beef and the like, served, at the preference of each 
 guest, and accompanied with vegetables, as pota- 
 toes and peas ; dishes removed ; ice brought 
 upon the table for wines and water ; clean plates 
 placed upon the table ; game, fowl, and garden 
 extras served — may be boiled plums, peas, chicken 
 and lettuce, all for one plate ; plates changed 
 again ; tarts, cooked fruits, puddings with milk, 
 sugar and sauce served ; dishes changed ; nuts 
 and ripe fruit, crackers, butter in thimble-rolls 
 and bits, and cheese in the large lump, passed ; 
 guests retire. No dish is served out of course, so 
 there is no use of hurrying ; it is best to enjoy 
 the dinner as an institution, or else do not be 
 present at it, as guests pay for only those meals 
 of which they partake. A traveler, whom I met, 
 said of these formal dinners : " How I dislike the 
 table d'hote, and I hate the sight of one of them 
 white necktie fellers that wait upon the table!" 
 Yet it is the meal of the day, and is, on the whole, 
 a very enjoyable occasion, the courses being 
 many, the food palatable and generally plentiful 
 in quantity, and the very formality lends an in- 
 terest to it that is not without its pleasure. 
 
 A " plain " breakfast or a " plain " tea consists 
 of coffee, chocolate or tea, rolls or bread, white or 
 brown, butter, and, in Switzerland, honey. If 
 the tourist desires meat or eggs he must so 
 specify at the time of ordering either of these 
 meals, which then is termed a " meat " breakfast 
 
62 EUROPEAN HOTELS. 
 
 or a " meat " tea, on account of the addition of 
 these extras, which are so charged in the bill. 
 
 The following scale of prices taken from our 
 own bills in England and Scotland will show the 
 usual charge for necessary hotel expenses : 
 
 Beds 2S. to 3s. 
 
 Breakfast. . . is. 6d. to 3s. 
 
 Dinner 2s. 6d. to 5s. 
 
 Tea is. 6d. 
 
 Supper 2s. to 3s. 
 
 Attendance is. 6d. 
 
 Also is added the copy (translated) of a bill of 
 one of the Continental hotels : 
 
 Candle 20 cts. 
 
 Breakfast (plain) 30 cts. 
 
 Two eggs, boiled ..... 12 cts. 
 
 Dinner 1 dollar 
 
 Plain tea 30 cts. 
 
 Cold meat 30 cts. 
 
 Room, one day 90 cts. 
 
 Service 20 cts. 
 
 Tourists must expect to find less haste and 
 bustle and dispatch in the European hotel ser- 
 vice than in that of America. This will often 
 prove a source of annoyance, unless provided 
 against by leaving orders beforehand. If an early 
 breakfast is desired, an order must be left with 
 the manager the night before, naming in detail 
 what is wished. It is also best to arrange in the 
 morning for lunch in the middle of the day, and 
 to fix the hour for dinner, which is late in the 
 afternoon, or for supper or tea in the evening. If 
 departing in the early morning, leave orders on 
 the previous evening with the porter for caring 
 for luggage or calling a cab, if needed, and settle 
 all bills, carefully examining them to see if all 
 
EUROPEAN HOTELS. 63 
 
 the items are correct, for errors quite occasionally 
 are made, where there are many guests, by the 
 waiters confusing the items and charging them to 
 the wrong room. Such mistakes should be rec- 
 tified at the "Paying Bureau" or "Manager's 
 Office." 
 
 It is an advisable plan to pay no fees to the 
 servants until the guest is ready to depart, as this 
 course will insure better continued attentions. 
 He need give himself no solicitude about being 
 able at that time to find the deserving servants 
 who have aided him, for they will attend upon 
 him very carefully until he is finally started — 
 they will be in the halls, on the stairs, at the 
 doors, and at the carriage. 
 
 When city guides are needed they can be 
 ordered at the hotels, where the tourist can also 
 obtain writing materials and postage stamps, and 
 should exchange larger pieces of money for 
 small coins, as cab-men, guides and porters rarely 
 have a supply of change. Printed " washing lists " 
 are usually found in the rooms, or are furnished on 
 request, and laundry work can be ordered done 
 on very short notice, and paid for at the time of 
 settling the hotel bill. The leading Continental 
 hotels keep clerks who can speak English. 
 
 A matter of considerable moment to tourists 
 is that of the water-closets (' W. C,' or ' O,' or 
 'Cabinet,') especially in the French hotels, 
 which, in the cities, are so arranged that these 
 closets, situated upon each flat, communicate by 
 a window with the inner court into which also 
 are directed often the steams from the kitchen. 
 These closets generally have no supply of water, 
 depending entirely upon the waste water which 
 the chamber attendants may empty into them. 
 As must be the case they are exceedingly offens- 
 
64 EUROPEAN HOTELS. 
 
 ive and deleterious to health. Having no venti- 
 lating flues nor disinfecting earths, the halls and 
 rooms situated near them become contaminated 
 with the poisonous odors which have their origin 
 in the want of an adequate water supply. Hence 
 it is of first importance to health that rooms be 
 secured sufficiently distant from them to escape 
 these dangers. 
 
 The following from the pen of Mr. G. W. 
 Smalley, the valued London correspondent of 
 the New York Tribune, will further set forth this 
 matter : 
 
 "In the quarter of Paris most frequented by travelers, the 
 evil of defective drainage or ventilation is almost as great as in 
 the purely French quarters. My experience of French and 
 other hotels is considerable, and I seriously advise American 
 travelers in Paris to insist on examining for themselves the 
 arrangements for closet ventilation. They will often find them 
 scandalously bad, and it is certain that the methods of drainage, 
 into which a passing traveler cannot well inquire, are equally 
 careless. I have known personally of many cases of typhoid 
 arising in Paris. There was one in particular last year in 
 which I had an interest, and I returned some months later to 
 the hotel from which it had sprung, with a view to looking into 
 the matter. I examined the rooms occupied by the invalid. 
 The apartments consisted of a parlor, two bed-rooms, dressing- 
 room and water closet. The latter was ventilated through the 
 ante-room leading to the parlor and bed -rooms, and in no other 
 way whatever. On my objecting to this, the landlord, without 
 any mark of surprise, offered me another suite of rooms which, 
 he assured me, were wholly free from any objection, the closet 
 being well away from the rooms. This also I examined, and 
 the landlord's description was, so far as it went, true enough. 
 The closet in this case had a window, but the window opened 
 upon the main staircase, so that the typhoid poison was thus 
 conveniently distributed throughout the house, instead of being 
 concentrated in a single apartment. This is a well-known hotel, 
 largely patronized by Americans. I do not name it, because I 
 have no reason to suppose it worse than many others —certainly 
 no worse than, at least, one other in the same street The 
 foreign physicians resident in Paris know perfectly well the state 
 of things that exists. For obvious reasons, they do not say 
 
EUROPEAN HOTELS. 65 
 
 much about it, but they will, I presume — at least I have known 
 of- cases in which they have done it — give an opinion when it is 
 sought, and say whether or not they consider a particular hotel 
 fit or unfit to live in. I dare say there are people who think 
 this an unpleasant topic for public discussion, but I don't feel 
 called upon to take account of mere prudery in a matter where 
 health and life are concerned. Nor am I writing on conjecture 
 or hearsay, but from knowledge confirmed by professional 
 opinion.*'- — Tribune, Nov. 1877. 
 
 When a tourist purposes to stay in any city or 
 town a number of days, and he seeks economy in 
 expense, it can readily be secured by taking 
 " apartments " at one place and meals at a restau- 
 rant ; or rooms and meals at some of the many 
 boarding-houses, or pensions, as they are so 
 generally called. Restaurants are readily found 
 where meals can be either eaten, or ordered sent 
 to one's apartments. These accommodations are 
 of varying degrees of price and of excellence. 
 The leading guide books of Europe give the 
 names of the most important of the pensions, and 
 frequently also the cafes or restaurants. 
 
66 EUROPEAN CITIES. 
 
 XT.— European Cities. 
 
 As a wholesale statement, European cities are 
 more compactly built than those of America, and 
 they impress the traveler, new to them, as being 
 dense,which impression is deepened by the real and 
 apparent narrowness of the streets, by the high 
 structures, and by the general effect which the 
 buildings give of age, of stability, of permanency, 
 of the dull, gray, solemn antiquity which seems 
 to shadow some of the quarters whence sprung 
 ancient and mediaeval history. Sometimes, 
 perhaps quite often, the impression will be that 
 of disappointment ; the city or town is small 
 compared with the previously formed notions of 
 it ; the town may be almost entirely modern in 
 style, it having been rebuilt ; the guide books 
 may name a large population for any given city, 
 which when entered seems surprisingly small 
 because of the densely clustered buildings, which 
 literally swarm with people who live in story 
 above story, and in underground stories. These 
 various cities, while they now may be of one 
 nationality and general government, yet each 
 retains in a measure the spirit and form of its 
 ancient, historical, individual, civil and social 
 existence, and has its own patron saint. 
 
 .The tourist, while he is projecting routes should 
 study into these individualities by all the assist- 
 ance that he can reach by means of guide books, 
 newspapers, or conversations, in order that he 
 may be able to visit the cities at the times when 
 they will avail him most. To this end he must 
 
EUROPEAN CITIES. 67 
 
 learn the time of the fast and feast days ; of the 
 holidays ; of the fair days ; of the fete or festival 
 days ; of the multitude of saints' days and other 
 holydays ; of the market days ; of the numerous 
 excursion days in the summer season ; of the cattle 
 and horse-show days ; of the days and hours 
 when certain art galleries are opened, and when 
 religious services close churches and cathedrals 
 to visitors ; of days of national games ; of clan 
 days ; of free exhibition days of the art galleries, 
 museums, churches, cathedrals, and the like, and 
 of the days when fees are charged to enter all 
 these ; of the seasons when the tourist may avail 
 himself of the musical exhibitions and rehearsals; 
 of the months when especially desirable art 
 collections can be visited, particularly in Ger- 
 many ; of the times when government buildings 
 can be entered ; of the season when the Parlia- 
 ments, Chambers of Deputies, and other chief 
 legislative bodies, as well as when the courts or 
 assizes, are in session. 
 
 The American tourist will be impressed 
 generally as he looks along a street extending 
 before him, that there is a want of something, he 
 knows not what ; an absence of something which 
 gives a feeling of nakedness to the rows of build- 
 ings which border on the streets. Upon examina- 
 tion the streets are seen to be free from projecting 
 signs which are so common in the cities of the 
 United States, these being painted upon the 
 buildings instead ; neither are there prominently 
 jutting cornices upon the buildings ; occasionally 
 there are overhanging balconies, which are really 
 entire rooms above the first story, and extending 
 out well over the street, sometimes half-way 
 across, formerly, in many cases, being met by a 
 like balcony from the opposite side, the two 
 
68 EUROPEAN CITIES. 
 
 together forming a sort of arch over the street. 
 In most cities where balconies are now built, 
 their width is limited by law, especially in 
 Southern Europe, where there are so many of 
 them. 
 
 The traveler will also be struck with the gen- 
 eral narrowness of the sidewalks ; he will, before 
 many days, find the roadway far more pleasant, 
 and will feel no scruples to walk therein, readily 
 conforming himself to the custom of the inhabit- 
 ants. To these narrow footways there are nota- 
 ble exceptions, as in portions of London, in the 
 leading boulevards of Paris, the Unter den Lin- 
 den in Berlin, the Boompjes of Rotterdam, the 
 Anlage of Heidelberg, and the Grand Quai of 
 Geneva. 
 
 • Some places are worthy of study on account of 
 many of their sidewalks being under or in the 
 buildings, they really being the first story space 
 of the houses on the street, as in Berne, and on 
 the Square of St. Mark in Venice ; or the second 
 story space reached by steps, as in Chester, where 
 they are called " rows," the shops opening off 
 from the inner side. The old walls and fortifica- 
 tions about some of the cities are matters of great 
 interest, as the wall which completely encircles 
 the old portion of Chester, and the immense for- 
 tifications which lie about Cologne. 
 
 The mail wagons and street letter-boxes will 
 attract attention. In London they are painted 
 red, and on the Continent frequently yellow. 
 The wagons when gathering the mails for the 
 general post-office, and when delivering them at 
 the railway station, are allowed the right of way 
 and greater speed over other conveyances. 
 
 The policemen, in their pronounced uniforms, 
 are the traveler's friends ; they are attentive and 
 
EUROPEAN CITIES. 69 
 
 obliging. In Great Britain they carry clubs for 
 defense, on the Continent swords. 
 
 The chimney-tops in European cities strike one 
 with their peculiar appearance. The chimneys 
 are wide, containing flues which are mostly terra- 
 cotta or red tile cylinders extending upward 
 prominently beyond the tops of the chimneys, 
 and are of varying height, which gives the effect 
 of strangeness. In Geneva these top flue-exten- 
 sions are made apparently of sheet-iron or tin, 
 and are some longer, some shorter, some with 
 caps, some without caps, some running out to the 
 right, some to the left hand, some here, some 
 there, thus giving a kind of wild serial effect to the 
 tops of the buildings and suggesting great horns 
 on great heads of great cattle. 
 
 In Great Britain the cities, notably London, 
 are more or less enlivened by bells from clocks 
 and from towers. On the Continent they are 
 conspicuous by their absence, except in certain 
 cities, and in those in which bells are worn upon 
 the horses in the streets. 
 
 The traveler, accustomed to the American 
 manner of numbering the houses upon the 
 streets, will be bewildered occasionally in some 
 of the European cities in his efforts to find a 
 given number on the street, and he will not dis- 
 cover the bewildering element until he sees that 
 the numbers upon the doors are regular in order 
 down one side of the street to the " bottom " of 
 it, and back on the other to the " top " of it, in- 
 stead of alternating on one side and then on the 
 other. Again, he will often address himself in ex- 
 pectation of a long walk down or up a street ; but 
 before he has fairly started, and without any ap- 
 parent change in the street, he will suddenly find 
 its name changed — he is in another street, having 
 
70 EUROPEAN CITIES. 
 
 passed entirely through the first, and is still in 
 the same thoroughfare. 
 
 The eager tourist, so alive to whatever is of 
 interest to him, will be usually astonished to find 
 the inhabitants living amid those scenes in a 
 state of semi-torpidity as to these particular 
 things, measuring their interest in them by the 
 amount of money which they hope to obtain by 
 means of them from the tourists who pass that 
 way. Many of the Continental cities have their 
 customs officers at the city limits, guarding all 
 the principal entrance avenues, and collecting 
 taxes, tolls and revenues. 
 
 Paris is a city that is great in its boulevards, 
 or wide and long streets ; in its finely sculptured 
 buildings; in its public monuments; in its Champs 
 Elysee ; in its shaded gravel areas called "jar- 
 dins " ; in its central points by gaslights ; in its 
 being apparently surrounded on nearly two sides 
 by an extensive forest, and in its important sub- 
 urbs. The motto, " Liberte, Egalite, Fraternite," 
 frequently meets the eye as one looks upon the 
 public buildings. In the light of French history 
 one is thoughtful in regard to the proper mean- 
 ing of the words. If Paris is a great city by day- 
 light, much more is it a brilliant city under gas- 
 light. 
 
 London is great in its possession of nearly four 
 millions of inhabitants ; in its miles upon miles of 
 superficial area ; in its long distances within the 
 city limits ; in its immense business blocks ; in its 
 great buildings, as that of the Bank of England, 
 which covers about seven acres of ground ; in its 
 public monuments of historic interest ; in its cel- 
 ebrated Abbey and Cathedral ; in its extensive 
 palaces ; in its by-streets and alleys, celebrated 
 for those who formerly lived there ; in its noble 
 
EUROPEAN CITIES. 7 I 
 
 streets, which yet seem narrow because of the 
 great height of the buildings ; in its capacious 
 and massive docks ; in its wonderful facilities for 
 rapid transit ; in its great museums, galleries, and 
 science gardens ; in the uniform courtesy of its 
 city servants, as the police, the omnibus drivers 
 and conductors ; in the winter season, for its dense, 
 hazy, semi-opaque, gas enshrouding fogs ; and in 
 its numerous parks, which are so many actual 
 rural retreats with all of the retirement, restful- 
 ness and quiet, even in the very midst of the din 
 of the great eity, and where the people can walk 
 and lie upon the grass, if they desire, without 
 being disturbed by the police. 
 
 Rome, the greatest museum of the world, to- 
 day is great in her ruins of Imperial Rome, lying 
 half buried amid heaps of rubbish and clamber- 
 ing vines, or, exhumed, speaking of former ease 
 and luxury ; in her gieat squares, with their col- 
 umns, and surrounded with lofty buildings ; in 
 her triumphal arches and ever-flowing fountains ; 
 in her churches and basilicas, with their cloisters, 
 the crescent-shaped colonnades inclosing the 
 wide-spreading piazza of St. Peter's, with its obe- 
 lisk and spraying fountains in the centre, and the 
 imposing dome rising over all ; in her villas, with 
 their gardens, and groves of Italian pine, with its 
 broad-spreading top, the dark cypress and the 
 ilex ; in her palaces, with their immense courts 
 encompassed by high walls ; in her Colosseum, 
 catacombs, and ruined aqueducts ; in her Vati- 
 can, the treasure-house of the masterpieces of 
 Raphael and Angelo. 
 
72 TRAVELING IN CITIES. 
 
 XYI.— Traveling in Cities. 
 
 It should always be the tourist's first business, 
 on visiting a city, to provide himself with good 
 local maps ; those which are cheap and conven- 
 ient to carry are easily obtained. By diligent 
 inquiry of the guidebook and of other available 
 sources of information, and in connection with 
 the map and pocket-compass, determine in which 
 portion of the town the points of interest are sit- 
 uated ; then study well the routes of public tfavel 
 leading to them. The managers of the hotels 
 and the city police are valuable aids in this work 
 
 If the places sought can be readily reached by 
 the regular lines of street cars, or tramways as 
 they are called in Europe, or by the omnibus 
 lines, these are the best means for traveling 
 distances at a small cost. The omnibuses and 
 trams are " double-decked," that is, they have 
 seats on the top in addition to the inside seats. 
 In Berlin and Paris, as well as in some other of 
 the Continental cities, perhaps quite generally, 
 the ordinary omnibus lines have regular stations 
 along the route at which stops are made for the 
 accommodation of passengers. The theory of 
 the enterprise appears to be the convenience of 
 the company rather than that of the public, and it is 
 exceedingly annoying to one who is accustomed 
 to the American and English system of accom- 
 modation. If a tourist wishes an omnibus he 
 must walk to one of the stations, which are small 
 offices near the sidewalks and at some distance 
 apart. He then, especially in Paris, will be 
 
TRAVELING IN CITIES. 73 
 
 furnished with a small circular card-disc having a 
 number upon it. When the omnibus comes up, an 
 officer allows the passengers to go on board in the 
 order of their numbers, and when the legal quota 
 of passengers has entered, no more are received 
 and the coach is ordered to proceed. The 
 tourist, in securing his admission number, should 
 understand that the color of the card determines 
 whether he is entitled to an inside or an outside 
 seat. A person can sometimes run his own risk 
 to get upon the omnibus between stations, if 
 there be room for him, and do the same about 
 getting off, although occasionally the omnibus 
 will stop between stations to allow ladies to 
 descend. The fares are collected of the 
 passengers on board the omnibus. The 
 upper, or outside seats are the better for sight- 
 seeing, and are also the cheaper. In some of the 
 Continental cities ladies are not allowed to ride 
 upon the upper-deck ; in London they often ride 
 on the front deck-seat with the driver. Some of 
 these omnibuses contain very characteristic 
 notices. In one in London I saw these : 
 "Notice ! — Neither dogs nor bundles of unwashed 
 linen must be allowed inside the company's 
 omnibuses." " To carry 26 passengers ; 12 inside, 
 14 outside." Ci To prevent overcharge please pay 
 your fare before you arrive at your destination, 
 and see the amount duly registered in the way- 
 bill on the door," where the bill was affixed. At 
 Venice the gondolas, with one boatman, cost one 
 lira, ten pence, for the first hour, and fifty cents 
 (Italian) for each successive hour. Omnibus gon- 
 dolas, for one seat to any part of the city along 
 the route, twenty-five cents. At the railway 
 stations, the gondolas, one boatman, two francs ; 
 two boatmen, three francs, and the boatmen load 
 
74 TRAVELING IN CITIES. 
 
 the luggage and deliver it at the door of the 
 apartments in the hotel. 
 
 Of all European cities for perfection of inter- 
 communication and cheapness of rates, commend 
 me to London. The omnibus drivers and con- 
 ductors are very obliging in stopping for passen- 
 gers; they are careful in aiding a stranger to his 
 desired routes, always taking great pains not to 
 mislead him for the purpose of securing his fare. 
 
 The Metropolitan, sometimes, but erroneously, 
 called the "Underground Railway," — for it passes 
 only occasionally underground — has stations at 
 easy intervals, and is a great aid to travel in 
 London. This railway is the same as the 
 ordinary train service, in fact is a part of it, only 
 it runs under buildings, under streets, on the 
 level, over streets, over house-tops, even over 
 bridges, under bridges, upon embankments, every- 
 where. The rates are low ; the carriages are 
 lighted with gas which is contained in pipes in 
 and about the carriages, and introduced at given 
 stations. 
 
 Cabs and hacks and hansoms, in London, are 
 conveniently found in all the business portions of 
 the city. It is worth the tourist's while to study 
 thoroughly the matter of cab-fares in Europe, 
 for although they are all regulated by law, the 
 drivers do not hesitate to demand extortionate 
 prices from strangers. In Glasgow and Edin- 
 burgh, a copy of " Murray's Time Tables," con- 
 taining the legal rates for given distances can 
 be purchased for a mere trifle, and it will be 
 found to aid very materially in saving from the 
 overcharging of the hackmen. The police, 
 whenever asked, assist in regard to proper 
 charges, and in French cities there are some- 
 times officers stationed at the cab-stands who 
 
TRAVELING IN CITIES. 75 
 
 help persons in securing cabs, and give informa- 
 tion as to the amount to be paid for the course 
 or by the hour. Also, the drivers are obliged 
 to give to the passenger, upon his request, the 
 printed rates for his inspection. The night rates 
 are higher than the day rates. 
 
 Whenever the rates are familiar to the tourist, 
 he should not ask the driver the price, but get 
 into the cab, give his directions, and when the 
 ride is ended hand the exact change, for drivers, 
 porters and guides, are very generally a change- 
 less, as well as a merciless people On the Con- 
 tinent a few "centimes," or "pfennigs" should 
 be added to the legal fare as a "pour boire," 
 which, were it in England, would be the driver's 
 " 'alf and 'alf." By paying this "pour boire" 
 without the asking for it the traveler will show 
 himself familiar with the customs of the country, 
 and thereby be saved much occasional annoy- 
 ance. 
 
 The cab-drivers have their peculiar outfit of hat 
 and boots, and coat, and quaint gear generally; 
 they drive much less rapidly when hired by the 
 hour than when by the course ; they have great 
 skill in slowing their horses by physical activities 
 which we are accustomed to regard as quicken- 
 ing to horse flesh. They have their signs for " Do 
 you wish a cab, Sir?" At Berne a cabby lifts 
 his hat clear from his head with his right hand ; 
 in Berlin he touches his hat with the forefinger 
 of his right hand ; in London he points to his 
 hat, or simply raises his hand They drive poor 
 horses, which are more distinguished for the 
 prominence of their skeletons than for their 
 rate of speed — except in London. 
 
 When the tourist is limited in his time for 
 visiting a strange town, it will be an advantage 
 
76 TRAVELING IN CITIES. 
 
 to engage a guide by the hour or by the day. 
 The manager of the hotel will inform him of the 
 legal charges, or else the guide must show his 
 rates upon a printed slip. In any event, arrange 
 the charges definitely before starting out, and 
 carefully note the time of starting, writing both 
 it and the rate in the presence of the guide. This 
 precaution seems hardly necessary, but a little 
 incident, not uncommon, will illustrate its neces- 
 sity. While in Mayence, I engaged a cab for an 
 hour for two " marks," starting from the hotel 
 at 7:30 A. M., the manager telling me the price, 
 and, by accident, I noted the hour of starting. 
 We returned at 8:20 A. M.; I handed the driver 
 two marks, but he hesitated and jabbered some- 
 what at me. The manager, who was present, 
 said that he demanded half a mark more for 
 fifteen minutes over the hour for which I had 
 employed him. I showed the manager my note 
 of the time, and I heard no more of the unjust 
 demand. The consciences of some of these 
 drivers are not celebrated for the delicacy of 
 their decisions, when their own pockets are con- 
 cerned in the transaction. 
 
 When a guide is once engaged, give him full 
 encouragement to talk, even though you appre- 
 hend that some of his historical statements are 
 drawn directly from his own imagination, but 
 hold him until he has shown you all he has agreed 
 to show, else he may cut short his tour, leaving 
 you in the lurch. A guide is an institution, and, 
 on the whole, a good one. It is better to allow 
 one's self to accept some pure fiction of the im- 
 agination than to be a stranger in a city, on short 
 time, trying vainly to find the places of real in- 
 terest which one seeks. 
 
 Porters in cities are designated by some official 
 
TRAVELING IN CITIES. 77 
 
 badge, which is properly numbered and hangs 
 about their shoulders by a strap, or is worn about 
 the cap or hat. These porters are general mes- 
 sengers to carry luggage or to run on errands of 
 any kind. 
 
 In Europe, all officials, in general, are distin- 
 guished by their dress, much more than in 
 America. 
 
78 RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL 
 
 XYII. — Railways and Railway Travel. 
 
 The tourist should provide himself with a good 
 railway guide book, and then intelligently study 
 it, which is not always an easy thing to do in or- 
 der to become familiar with it. " Bradshaw's 
 Monthly Continental Railway Guide," containing 
 the official time and fare-tables of all the Conti- 
 nental railways, steamboats, diligences, mail 
 coaches ; giving full information respecting ho- 
 tels, routes, foreign moneys ; also describing 
 briefly each country, with its principal cities and 
 places of interest, and illustrated with maps of 
 various countries, can be purchased for three 
 shillings and sixpence, including a separate book 
 of city maps; and his " Guide of the English Rail- 
 ways for sixpence. " Cook's Continental Time 
 Tables and Tourist Handbook," price thirty-five 
 cents, his "Map of Central Europe," price ten cents, 
 will be found very valuable. 
 
 In Europe each public system of travel is called 
 a " service," as railway service, steamboat service, 
 diligence service, omnibus service. 
 
 With the exception of a line or two of railway 
 service in Switzerland, the coaches, which are 
 called carriages, and sometimes wagons, are gen- 
 erally divided into distinct, though somewhat 
 narrow, compartments, ranging in numbers from 
 four to eight for each carriage, those containing 
 eight being as long as our Pullman coach. Each 
 compartment contains two seats, extending from 
 side to side of the coach and opposite each other, 
 so that passengers sit face to face, those on the 
 
RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 79 
 
 one seat riding with their faces in the direction 
 in which the train is moving, the others riding 
 backwards. 
 
 The compartments are entered at each end 
 through a door in the side of the carriage. These 
 doors open outwardly, and the upper half of each 
 is a window that lets down into the lower part of 
 the door at the pleasure of the passenger. On 
 each side of these doors is usually a narrow win- 
 dow. The door-fastening, in Britain, is a strong 
 spring-knob on the outside ; on the Continent, in 
 addition to this knob, there is, on the outside of 
 the door, a kind of metal latch, which drops 
 down into a catch. The passenger, by dropping 
 the window and reaching out his hand, easily 
 opens the door. The doors may be locked by 
 the train officials, who carry keys. Beneath each 
 door, on the English carriage, is one short step, 
 and on some of the Continental lines two steps, 
 the lower one extending along the whole length 
 of the carriage, the upper one being short and 
 directly under the door, as in the English coach. 
 
 Upon the outside of the doors, and on the in- 
 side occasionally, is indicated the "class " of the 
 compartment, as " First Class," " Second Class," 
 "Third Class." Some coaches have all of their 
 compartments exclusively of one of the three 
 classes, and others have those of two or three 
 classes, as the first and second, or second and third. 
 Hence, a single train may include the three 
 classes, or two, or only one class ; the time tables 
 specify in regard to this. 
 
 The first class compartments seat six or eight 
 passengers and are elegantly upholstered, having 
 arm-rests and often head-rests, racks for luggage, 
 silk curtains at the windows, Brussels carpets 
 upon the floors. Running between Boston and 
 
8o RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 
 
 Fall River are found some coaches which are 
 fitted up in this first class compartment style. 
 The second-class compartments seat eight or ten 
 passengers, and are furnished similarly to the 
 first class, out not so expensively. On the Con- 
 tinental lines, particularly in Germany, Switzer- 
 land and France, I found these compartments 
 fully equal, or even superior, in comfort to the 
 first class in England, and "considering comfort 
 and convenience, the second class carriages in 
 Central Europe are far cheaper and more to be 
 recommended than the first and third classes ; 
 the first being very much dearer than the second, 
 without corresponding advantages, and the third 
 little cheaper than the second, and far inferior in 
 every respect." 
 
 In the third class compartments the seats are 
 plain deal boards, uncushioned except in the 
 through trains for long distances, and each seat 
 holds five passengers, or ten in the compartment. 
 These compartments have luggage racks, some- 
 times curtains at the windows, but no carpets nor 
 arm-rests. When a coach contains only third class 
 compartments, these are often separated from 
 each other by partitions, which extend only half 
 way from the floor to the ceiling ; thus there are 
 virtually several compartments thrown into one. 
 I traveled almost exclusively by third class in 
 England and Scotland, and found it very com- 
 fortable. 
 
 At night, and when passing through tunnels, 
 each compartment is lighted, commonly by 
 means of a lamp placed in the roof, and over 
 which a shade can be drawn if desired. These 
 lamps are lighted and extinguished from the roof, 
 above which the tops of the lamp-covers are seen 
 projecting. 
 
RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 8l 
 
 In some parts of Europe, especially in the 
 northern and central portions, during the cold 
 weather of the winter months, the compartments 
 are warmed by iron stoves. In countries where 
 these are not used, the first and second class com- 
 partments are heated by " foot-warmers " or 
 " chaufferettes," which are semi-cylindrical or 
 rectangular metal cans, from three to four feet 
 long, ten to twelve inches wide on the bottom, 
 and four to six inches deep, filled with hot water. 
 Two of these warmers are placed end to end 
 upon the centre of the floor of each compartment, 
 extending entirely across the coach, thus enabling 
 all the passengers to place their feet upon them, 
 and by their radiation of heat making the com- 
 partment very comfortable. These warmers are 
 taken out at proper intervals and replaced by 
 others which have been re-heated. On some lines 
 they are apparently supplied only at the request 
 of the passengers ; there is no extra fee due for 
 these warmers. 
 
 Through trains are provided with signal-cords 
 to notify a train officer in case of necessity. In a 
 compartment on a train in Scotland I saw, sub- 
 stantially, the following notice : 
 
 "NOTICE — CORD COMMUNICATION. 
 
 " There are two cords, one on each side, outside 
 the carriages, close to the cornice over the win- 
 dows of the carriage doors. Use only the one on 
 the right hand side, in the direction in which the 
 train is traveling. Passengers are exhorted to 
 protect it. The penalty for the needless ringing 
 of it, for each offense, shall be a fine not exceed- 
 ing £5" 
 
 The tourist will notice compartments, in Eng- 
 land, labeled "Smoking," (permission)- in Ger- 
 
82 RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 
 
 many, " Nicht Rauchen," (forbidden); in France, 
 " Fumer," (permission), or " Non Fumer," (for- 
 bidden); in Holland," Niet Rooken," (forbidden). 
 If he objects to smoking, he should not fail to 
 note the above, for he can always procure a com- 
 partment in which smoking is strictly forbidden. 
 " Except in Germany, smoking is only allowed 
 on sufferance, and those who object have only to 
 insist upon their right ; those who cannot make 
 known their wishes from their ignorance of the 
 language, have only to point to the notice gen- 
 erally attached to the non-smoking carriages, 
 which hint proves »for the most part sufficient." 
 In regard to smoking, the following notice will 
 give further explanation concerning English 
 cars. 
 
 " Smoking : — The attention of Passengers is 
 directed to the following Bye-Law of the Company 
 (North British Railway) on this subject : ' Every 
 Person Smoking in any Shed or Covered 
 Platform of a Station, or in any building of the 
 Company, or in any Carriage, or Compartment of 
 a Carriage not specially provided for that purpose, 
 is hereby subjected to a penalty not exceeding 
 Forty Shillings. The Company's Officers and 
 Servants are required to take the necessary steps to 
 enforce obedience to this Bye-Law; and any person 
 offending against it is liable, in addition to incur- 
 ring the penalty above-mentioned, to be sum- 
 marily removed, at the first opportunity, from the 
 Carriage or from the Company's premises.' 
 
 By Order." 
 
 The through trains on most of the Continental 
 lines have compartments reserved exclusively for 
 ladies w T ho are traveling alone. In Germany, 
 such compartments are labeled " Fiir Damen," 
 and in France, "Dames Seules.'" 
 
RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 83 
 
 Every coach is numbered, as " 2744, All," and 
 a safe precaution for the traveler is to carefully 
 note the number of the carriage in which he is 
 riding, providing he leaves the train at any of 
 the stopping places, else, in case of an unexpected 
 signal for the departure of the train, he will 
 have serious difficulty in finding his compart- 
 ment, as all the coaches appear so much alike. 
 
 All passenger trains are accompanied by a 
 "guard," or conductor, whose duty it is to 
 direct the train according to certain printed 
 regulations, of which he possesses a copy. The 
 guards and other officials in the railway service 
 of England are distinguished by the red bands 
 and straps upon their uniforms ; in Germany the 
 color is gold, in France, silver. 
 
 Generally in the cars of the European railway 
 service there are no retiring closets. The fre- 
 quent stops which the trains make are calculated 
 to render unnecessary these provisions for the 
 comfort of the passengers On the express 
 
 trains (" Schnellzug ") in Germany there are 
 " cabinets," which can be reached while the train 
 is in motion, by walking upon the narrow, plank- 
 step which runs lengthwise under the doors on 
 the outside of the carriage. But the walk is very 
 dangerous, and, in order to accomplish it safely, 
 assistance is required of the guard who may be 
 signalled by pulling a cord which is at the top 
 ot the compartment, or by pressing an electric 
 signal-button which is sometimes provided. 
 
 Some of the coaches in Switzerland and Wur- 
 temburg are unsatisfactory imitations of the 
 American coach. They have a central aisle, but 
 the high-backed seats, each for two persons, are 
 arranged in sets of two, facing each other, and a 
 partition with a door in the centre divides the 
 
84 RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 
 
 coach into two rooms. In some of the Swiss 
 carriages there is posted the following notice, 
 generally in German as well as in French : 
 
 " Cabinet dans la Voiture, 
 S'adresser aii Conducteur." 
 " Avis. 
 
 Les voyageurs qui paient une taxe au Conduc- 
 teur recoivent de lui quittance pour leur servir 
 en cas de nouveau controle." Passengers enter 
 from platforms at the ends of the car as with us. 
 
 Sleeping-cars are not as much used in Europe 
 as in the United States. On the Midland Rail- 
 way, running from London to Liverpool and to 
 Scotland, are the Pullman Palace and Sleeping- 
 cars made in the United States. The rates for 
 these are the first class fare and an additional 
 extra charge. Also, some of the English and 
 Continental railways use the Mann Boudoir 
 Sleeping-car, which is well supplied with beds, 
 lavatories, and retiring closets. It is said to be 
 a very comfortable coach, and can be procured 
 at a moderate extra charge. 
 
 " Continental railway fares can be ascertained 
 without difficulty, a fare-table being usually 
 attached to the wall of the booking-office. In 
 Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and Italy, the 
 fare is legally printed on the tickets, which is a 
 great guarantee to the inexperienced traveler, 
 against frauds on the part of the booking-clerk. 
 The fares on the continent are very much lower 
 than in England, being the lowest in Belgium, 
 Bavaria, Baden, Wurtemberg, South Italy, Nor- 
 way, Sw T eden, and North Germany. In Austria, 
 the fares by the slow trains ( Goods with Passen- 
 gers ) are little more than half the ordinary fares. 
 In Belgium, the fares are often only one-third 
 
RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 85 
 
 those charged in the United Kingdom ; and in 
 the other countries mentioned, are considerably 
 below the English fares." 
 
 The fares in England are : For first class, three 
 pence per mile ; for second class, two pence ; for 
 third class, one penny — i. e. in our currency, six 
 cents, four cents, and two cents, respectively. 
 
 In Britain, excursion tickets are sold at some, 
 if not all, seasons of the year, when a single 
 ticket can be bought for one and a half the usual 
 cost for the two rides, and it is good for a given 
 time. This adds to the economy of railway 
 travel when the tourist wishes to return over the 
 same route. 
 
 " Return tickets are almost universal on the 
 Continent, and are issued upon terms far more 
 liberal than any granted by the English lines. 
 As a rule they are only available for the day on 
 which they are issued ; but in Germany, they are 
 often available for from two to five days, and in 
 France, on some lines, for two days, or from 
 Saturday to Monday ; whenever return tickets 
 are issued, they are issued to third class passen- 
 gers. Return tickets are issued in Baden, Bava- 
 ria, Denmark, Holland, and Wurtemberg, at a 
 fare and a half for the double journey (/. e. a 
 reduction of twenty-five per cent, off the double 
 fare). In Belgium and Switzerland, a return 
 ticket is given at a reduction of twenty per cent., 
 or at the rate of one and three-fifths fares ; in 
 Saxony, generally, at a fare and one-third ; in 
 North Germany, at a rate varying from a fare 
 and one-seventh, to a fare and three-fifths. In 
 Austria, return tickets are not yet general, but 
 are sometimes issued. In France, the rates are 
 as follows : On the Nord Railway, one and one- 
 half fares (one and seven-tenths fares for third 
 
86 RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 
 
 class) ; on the Ouest Line, one and one-half to 
 one and one-third fares (though occasionally 
 lower) ; on the Paris, Lyons, and Mediterranean 
 Line, one and one-fourth to one and one-third 
 fares (issued only on special occasions, and to 
 large towns) ; on the Est, one and one-fifth fares 
 (except out of Paris, which is one and one-half 
 fares and more) ; on the Orleans and Midi Lines, 
 return tickets are only issued to and from a few sta- 
 tions. In Italy, return tickets (one day only) are 
 issued at an average rate of a fare and two-thirds. 
 Return tickets are not always available by 
 express trains ; inquiry should be made." 
 
 The tourist when purchasing tickets, should be 
 careful to inquire, particularly on the Continent, 
 whether his proposed ticket will be accepted on 
 the through express trains, if he be desirous of 
 traveling on those trains, and if he may be 
 allowed to break his journey at specified points, 
 with permission to continue it upon these trains, 
 for otherwise he may find that he will be obliged 
 to await other runs which correspond to our slow 
 accommodation service, or he may be compelled 
 to pay extra fare upon again boarding the 
 express. 
 
 In Britain and Holland, tickets are examined, 
 punched, and collected by officers at the stations 
 — the conductors have nothing apparently to do 
 with them. In Germany, the guards attend to 
 the tickets, in whole or in part, while the train is 
 in motion; and in the night they wear small 
 square lamps attached to the breast of their 
 coats — this gives them the freedom 01 their hands 
 which are needed to hold to the iron braces 
 upon the outside of the cars, to prevent their fall- 
 ing off the step. 
 
 Passengers having books of (Cook's) traveling 
 
RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 87 
 
 coupons, should exercise the precaution of care- 
 fully examining their books immediately after 
 the officers have removed portions, for they some- 
 times, by mistake, take out too many of the 
 coupons. 
 
 In some portions of Germany the departure of 
 trains from the stations is controlled by large 
 gong-bells, which are rung by electricity, directed 
 by an operator who is in some central office along 
 the road ; in other parts of Germany, in Holland, 
 in portions of Switzerland, and France, by the 
 guard who blows a large tin or brass horn, or a 
 ram's horn — at small stations, sometimes by the 
 ringing of a hand bell ; in Britain by a small 
 metallic whistle blown by conductor, or by a bell. 
 
 The laws are very strict in regard to passen- 
 gers getting on or off a train while it is in mo- 
 tion, as witness the following : 
 
 " NORTH BRITISH RAILWAY COMPANY. 
 
 NOTICE TO PASSENGERS. 
 
 " The Carriage Doors are not locked on either 
 side, and, as they may be opened by Passengers 
 or others from the outside, it is specially re- 
 quested that Passengers traveling in the Car- 
 riages will net lean against the Doors, either 
 while the Train is in motion or while it is at a 
 stand. 
 
 " Passengers are also enjoined to refrain from 
 interfering with the Fastenings of the Carriage 
 Doors, and to keep their seats until the train 
 
 IS BROUGHT TO A COMPLETE STAND AT THE PLAT- 
 FORM, and only then to leave the Carriages at the 
 Platform Side. 
 
 "The Company hereby give distinct notice that 
 they will rigidly enforce the following Bye-Law : 
 
 "'Any Passenger entering or leaving, or at- 
 
55 RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 
 
 tempting to enter or leave, any Carriage while 
 the train is in motion, or elsewhere than at the 
 side of the Carriage adjoining the Platform, or 
 other place appointed by the Company for Pas- 
 sengers to enter or leave the Carriages, is hereby 
 subjected to a penalty not exceeding forty 
 shillings.' " 
 
 Observe that in Germany the trains pass each 
 other by running upon the right hand track, as 
 in America ; in Great Britain and France the 
 passing of trains is at the left, which custom is 
 observed also by wagons in cities and in the 
 country, but pedestrians always keep to the 
 right. 
 
 On the English cars the " brake-van " is a 
 compartment which has a semi-bay-window ex- 
 tending out on each side, from which the guard 
 can look both forward and backward along the 
 entire train. In this van is a set of machinery 
 by which the brakes of the train are manipu- 
 lated. In Germany the brake extends above the 
 top of the coach, resembling that of our closed 
 freight car. Around and over this brake is 
 built a small cabin large enough for the guard, 
 who reaches it by winding iron stairs from the 
 end of the coach. This cabin has glass win- 
 dows, from which the guard commands the en- 
 tire outlook along the train. Under this guard- 
 house is situated the " cabinet," to which refer- 
 ence has previously been made. In the Swiss- 
 American cars the brakes are upon the plat- 
 forms, as with us. 
 
 Upon the European trains there is often a 
 swaying motion to the cars, especially of the 
 shorter ones, but there is none of that unpleas- 
 ant bumping together as in those of the United 
 States. The cars have projecting out from each 
 
RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 89 
 
 lower corner of the frame — two in front and two 
 in the rear — iron rods or arms about two feet 
 long, the extremity of the outer ends being disk- 
 shaped, the inner ends being in some way con- 
 nected with strong springs. When two cars are 
 attached together, the disks first come in con- 
 tact ; the coupling is made of two short chains 
 fastened to a screw and nut, by w T hich the two 
 cars are drawn tightly together, the disks being 
 in contact and the springs in tension. The 
 whole train is thus literally one continuous coach, 
 for when the engine starts or stops, these stiff 
 springs break any jar or pitching or bumping, 
 and all the coaches appear to start and stop as 
 one. These spring-buffers are a great advantage 
 over the couplings now in use in the United 
 States. 
 
 The trains in each country, in their general ap- 
 pearance, have their own individualities, which 
 the tourist will soon mark. Those of Germany 
 approach nearest those of our country — the smoke 
 stacks are larger, the cars are heavier than in the 
 other European countries, where the coaches are 
 light and the engines small. The trains are far 
 less noisy than ours ; the whistles are not so 
 loud nor sounded so long; their speed is usually 
 good and on express trains rapid, especially in 
 England. Many of the freight cars are mere 
 open platform wagons, with large rubber blan- 
 kets thrown over the goods. On most of the 
 trains the engineers and firemen have but very 
 little protection from the weather, often only 
 what corresponds to the upright front portion of 
 our engineer's room, having windows in front for 
 the engineer's outlook. The night engines have 
 two front-lights, which are located at the lower 
 corners of the engine-carriage, directly over the 
 
90 RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 
 
 wheels. The locomotives look curiously abrupt 
 and unfinished in front, because they have no 
 cow-catchers, only the projecting spring-buffers. 
 
 Along the railways, at varying distances apart, 
 are the cottages of the plate-layers, whose duty is 
 to watch over the road, to make small repairs, 
 and to report to the superintendent any serious 
 disarrangement. Sometimes, one of these cot- 
 tages is adjacent to a level road crossing, at 
 which gates must be closed across the track to 
 allow the passage of road travelers, and opened 
 only when trains signal their approach. The 
 plate-layer's wife often performs the duty of gate- 
 keeper, and as the train passes she may be seen 
 standing motionless, holding the signal-flag. 
 
 If the European cars lack many of the accom- 
 modations which the American coaches afford, 
 still they are in thorough keeping with the notion 
 of privacy or exclusion in associations which 
 characterize the country. In all justice to the 
 disadvantages which Europeans suffer, the pass- 
 ing remark may be made that passengers by that 
 system cannot be made happy by the peanut 
 boys passing through the cars ; this is a great 
 loss that the benighted traveler knows not of ! 
 
 There is another marked peculiarity attending 
 upon European railway travel which seems to be 
 settled in the very roots of European institutions, 
 and is not by any means confined to the officials con- 
 nected with railway trains. Reference is made 
 to the power which sundry officials of the roads, 
 as porters and guards, appear to possess over the 
 accommodations afforded by the carriages in the 
 way of granting individual favors to passengers. 
 For want of a better term, I shall call this the 
 " discretionary " power. For instance : Upon 
 the windows of some of the compartments are 
 
RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 9 1 
 
 pasted labels on which is the word " Smoking," 
 and it is forbidden by law to smoke in compart- 
 ments not so labeled. A passenger occupies a 
 compartment alone, or perhaps there may be a 
 company of gentlemen, or a man and his family, 
 and it is desired to smoke. Upon this desire 
 being made known to one of the porters, who are 
 ordinarily very accommodating to the tourist, he 
 will paste upon one of the windows the label 
 " Smoking." This is now law, and the passen- 
 ger can indulge his habit. 
 
 Again: Suppose a passenger, or a company 
 of passengers, desires an entire compartment 
 during a given journey. Let him make known 
 this wish to the gentlemanly guard — " If there 
 be plenty of accommodation upon the train, it 
 would be a special favor, which would be deeply 
 appreciated " — and he will give the subject due 
 investigation, and if the matter can be favorably 
 arranged the compartment will not be profaned 
 by the presence of strangers during the journey. 
 The passenger who enjoys this courtesy of the 
 above-mentioned official will certainly not be 
 neglectful of a reciprocal etiquette toward him 
 in the way of " solid " thanks, which may vary 
 from a sixpence upward, according to the appre- 
 ciation of the befriended traveler. Americans 
 are justly criticized for being far too generous 
 in these reciprocations, their mistake arising 
 from not properly understanding the spirit of 
 European institutions, and wrongly regarding 
 these favors as the results of very different mo- 
 tives from those above stated. 
 
 The tourist will sometimes hear remarks con- 
 cerning the ungentlemanly and gruff manner in 
 which officials address passengers traveling upon 
 third class tickets. I traveled very much by 
 
92 RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 
 
 third class railway accommodations, and I never 
 experienced anything but politeness and atten- 
 tion during the whole time, except once, and 
 that was at Callander, Scotland. A crowd of 
 passengers was at the station to board the train, 
 which appeared full when it arrived. I saw no 
 vacant places in the third class compartments 
 for my company, and I politely asked the guard 
 for assistance, which he said he would render 
 me, but immediately gave his services to some 
 other passengers who had first class tickets. 
 Upon my application to a station official for aid, 
 he said that there was room if I could find it, 
 but he gave me no further assistance. I thanked 
 him, and then the train being signaled to start, 
 we bounded into an overfull compartment, and 
 so obtained passage. At a station beyond Cal- 
 lander, a company of five or six persons, hold- 
 ing first class tickets, were obliged to enter a 
 third class compartment because there were not 
 first class carriages sufficient to accommodate 
 them. The railway company was inexcusable 
 for not providing proper transportation for all 
 persons holding tickets. 
 
 Also, on this same occasion, I had the follow- 
 ing experience, which may serve as a warning 
 to others. I purchased tickets at a hotel in 
 Glasgow for the round trip through the Tros- 
 sachs, returning by Stirling. The tickets cost me 
 at second class rates, and said " Good for sec- 
 ond or third class passage." The agent of whom 
 I bought them said that the tickets contracted 
 that I must travel third class if there were no 
 second class carriages on the train, but he assured 
 me that the trains were always provided with 
 second-class carriages. When I came to the 
 train all the coaches were of the first and third 
 
RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 93 
 
 classes. This seemed a downright swindle, for 
 I had paid second class rates, but there was no 
 redress at the time ; I must go third-class or 
 stay. Had I bought my tickets at the booking- 
 office of the station, instead of at the hotel, 
 I would have paid only the third class rates, 
 and have had the same accommodations for 
 which I paid the second class rates. 
 
 This may be as good a place as any to speak 
 of the boat service, connected with railway ser- 
 vice, across the English Channel and the German 
 Ocean from England to the Continent. These 
 waters are usually rough and " chopped " or 
 " cross seas," and the boats are comparatively 
 small. The voyage, which is from one and one- 
 half to eight or ten hours by the best boats and 
 routes, can be made ordinarily by day or by 
 night, but a day voyage is recommended when 
 the item of time is no important consideration. 
 It is the practice of travelers, who are familiar 
 with the sea, to secure berths by telegraphing in 
 advance, when taking the night voyage. On all 
 these routes, interpreters, so designated upon their 
 caps, accompany the boats and railway trains. 
 These and all other coasting and inland boats 
 provide refreshments for those who desire them. 
 Sometimes there is so great a rush for the tables 
 immediately upon boarding the boat, if it be at 
 meal time, that the uninitiated may find himself 
 left to wait for the second table. 
 
94 RAILWAY STATIONS. 
 
 XYIII.— Railway Stations. 
 
 The depots — which are called "stations" in 
 Scotland and England, "banhofs " in Germany, 
 " staziones " in Italy, and "gares " or " stations " 
 in France — are generally well ordered and finely 
 appearing buildings, particularly in the larger 
 towns and cities, being substantially constructed 
 of stone, brick or iron, and often elaborately or- 
 namented in their architecture, some of them 
 having extensive glass roofs over the tracks. The 
 country stations, especially in England, are low, 
 semi-cottage buildings of brick or stone, and are 
 rendered attractive in summer time by the pots 
 of flowers upon the window ledges, and the small 
 well-cared-for flower gardens at the sides ; some- 
 times the name of a station is sown in delicate 
 flowers amid a bed of green grass. 
 
 The eating-rooms and waiting-rooms are 
 divided into " first," " second," and " third " class, 
 the furniture and the refreshments corresponding 
 to the classes named. The ticket-offices, called 
 " Booking-Offices " or " Bureaus," are designated 
 in prominent letters, generally each class of tick- 
 ets having its own special bureau. 
 
 It should be recollected that in Europe passen- 
 gers are "booked" to a place, instead of being 
 " ticketed," as in the United States. The larger 
 stations are so arranged that passengers are un- 
 able to gain access to the cars until a few mo- 
 ments before the departure of the train, when the 
 gates are opened and the tickets inspected, as 
 with us in many depots. So great care is taken 
 
RAILWAY STATIONS. 95 
 
 in examining tickets at the stations, upon the 
 starting of trains, that passengers are not often 
 carried upon the wrong road, even though trains 
 may be leaving at frequent intervals of the day, 
 and in many different directions. The tourist 
 will notice a " Lost-Property Office," and a "cloak- 
 room" where, if desirous to free himself from his 
 hand luggage, he can leave it by paying a small 
 charge and receiving in return a receipt. In the 
 British stations, with but few exceptions, a large 
 clock is seen, whose face is of sufficient size and 
 prominence to greet passengers who are entering 
 or leaving the station ; on the Continent less care 
 is shown in this regard. The stations of any 
 pretensions are provided with news-stands, book- 
 stalls, cheap-picture stands, and with telegraph 
 offices very similar to those in the United States. 
 Peddlers and caterers not being upon the trains, 
 they are found in the stations. 
 
 In Britain the station platforms are long and 
 are built up in a substantial manner, as of solid 
 stone, or of stone and earth, to such a height 
 that only one short step is required to be attached 
 to the carriages beneath the doors in order to 
 step directly into the compartments. Here, also, 
 passengers are not permitted to cross the track, 
 unless by the elevated or by the " under-cross- 
 ing " passage-ways which are provided where 
 there are two tracks, and hence two platforms 
 from which to* enter the carriages. 
 
 On the Continent, especially in Germany, 
 Switzerland, and France, the station platforms 
 are low, as with us generally. 
 
 The retiring rooms are not connected with the 
 waiting-rooms as they usually are in this country, 
 but they open directly from the station platforms. 
 They are conspicuously marked, as, " For Gentle- 
 
96 RAILWAY STATIONS. 
 
 men," " For Ladies," " Flir Herren," " Fiir 
 Damen," " Pour Hommes," " Pour Dames " — 
 frequently the " class " also is designated — and 
 they are generally in charge of a man or a 
 woman, who expects a small fee. With these are 
 often united the lavatories, and when such is the 
 case, there is sometimes a stated price — so indi- 
 cated by a notice — for the use of these apart- 
 ments. 
 
 The names of the stations are placed conspicu- 
 ously upon posts or fences, at the ends of the 
 platforms, and on the stations themselves. The 
 station guards call out the name of the station 
 while the train is coming to a stop. The serious 
 drawback in this is that the name being new to 
 the traveler is so strangely pronounced to him 
 that he can not understand it with any degree of 
 certainty ; the only sure way is to watch for the 
 name on the station. In some parts of the Con- 
 tinent the names are less conspicuously placed — 
 sometimes they are only upon the ends of the 
 station buildings, after the manner of many of 
 the stations in Massachusetts, on the line of the 
 Albany and Boston road. 
 
 Upon the arrival of a train at a station, the 
 porters, who are always numerous, hasten to 
 open the carriage doors, first selecting the first 
 class compartments, and ask if there is any lug- 
 gage to carry. Hacks, cabs, and omnibuses, 
 abound to wait upon passengers, but there are no 
 express delivery wagons. " It is advisable not to 
 ask cabmen at a station about hotels, as they 
 may possibly drive you to the wrong one." I do 
 not recollect meeting a "hotel runner," still, he 
 may flourish in some quarters of Europe. The 
 cabs in some of the Continental cities are directed 
 to their stands by an official, and passengers, thus 
 
RAILWAY STATIONS. 97 
 
 desiring, are assigned to a cab by this officer, the 
 driver simply obeying orders. This is particu- 
 larly noticeable in Berlin and in Paris. To 
 avoid the pitiless pestering of the porters and 
 cab-men, or " cabbies " as they are generally 
 termed, who are so very persistent in their 
 desire to serve you, in some cities, it is a good 
 plan for the tourist, upon getting out of his car- 
 riage, to take his hand luggage and walk directly 
 out of the station, passing all of those greedy 
 fellows without a condescension. Having gained 
 his freedom, the traveler can stop to inquire his 
 way, in quiet and in peace. He may seek this 
 information at his pleasure, of any policeman, of 
 whom there are numbers at the stations. It is 
 about fatal to a tourist if he once appear panic- 
 stricken and uncertain in his wants among a 
 body of idle porters or cabbies, because they will 
 advise him to so many ways, and with so many 
 words, and with so great vehemence, that he 
 will lose the balance of his wits amid the din. 
 
 I always found it safe, when entering a strange 
 city, to take a cab to the hotel which I had pre- 
 viously selected, and there ask the manager or 
 hotel porter, to pay the driver and charge the 
 account in my hotel bill. By this means I was 
 saved exorbitant charges, particularly when in 
 cities where the language was not familiar to me. 
 In case of employing porters to carry luggage, 
 this course will also be found advantageous. 
 
 The stations contain many advertisements and 
 notices, which are suggestive. In a second class 
 eating-room at Perth, Scotland, the following 
 was seen : " Porters, guards, and trainmen, must 
 not be found in this room at train times." Some- 
 times, but not often, is seen, " Beware of Pick- 
 pockets." Passengers will frequently find it to 
 
98 RAILWAY STATIONS. 
 
 their comfort and advantage to purchase lunches 
 at the depots and take them on the train, especially 
 if the ride is to carry the opportunity for obtain- 
 ing meals beyond due hours. 
 
 In the Islands, friends can meet people at the 
 cars, in the stations, or accompany them thither, 
 but on the Continent, generally, this meeting can 
 not extend beyond the ante-rooms of the stations, 
 unless by express permission from the chief of 
 the station guards. 
 
RAILWAY LUGGAGE. 99 
 
 XIX.— Railway Luggage. 
 
 In caring for luggage there is perplexity. It is 
 noticeable that passengers in Europe, except 
 Americans, travel with much smaller pieces of 
 luggage than do the people in this country — the 
 trunks are not so large — there are many port- 
 manteaus, sachels, traveling bags and shawl 
 straps. This state of things is founded in the 
 railway luggage system itself. The luggage is 
 " lifted " at the stations by the porters, if it be 
 more, or heavier, than the tourist wishes to handle. 
 In Britain, if the pieces are not taken into the 
 compartments, in which only the small hand 
 pieces are allowed, the porters carry, or wheel 
 upon a small hand truck, or upon a barrow, the 
 pieces to an officer, who determines if there be 
 any excess weight, and then pastes upon the 
 trunk a coarse paper label containing the name 
 of the station to which the passenger is booked, 
 as shown by his ticket, the railway company 
 giving no check or receipt. The porter now 
 places this luggage in the "luggage van" 
 which is assigned to carry it to that given 
 station along the route. The passenger should 
 not neglect to assure himself by personal in- 
 spection, that it is in the proper van, and he 
 should carefully note the number which is 
 painted upon the van, in order to facilitate his 
 readily finding it when he shall have reached 
 the termination of his journey. He pays the 
 porter from three pence upwards for each piece 
 of luggage handled, depending upon the amount 
 
IOO RAILWAY LUGGAGE. 
 
 of service rendered — it is best to hand the porter 
 his fees, without asking questions. At its desti- 
 nation, the officials take it out of the van and 
 place it upon the platform, where the owner 
 must claim it. If it should be unclaimed, it will 
 be placed in the room designated " Left Lug- 
 gage," where it can be found. Luggage should 
 always be very fully and legibly marked with the 
 owner's name and address. 
 
 Another way of transporting luggage is by a 
 freight-accommodation train, called a "goods 
 train," or "luggage train." The tourist, after 
 carefully and distinctly labeling or " tagging " 
 his trunk, can arrange with the hotel porter to 
 deliver it at the station, where it will be put upon 
 the goods train, and will be safely delivered at 
 the hotel or other place to which it is destined. 
 If it be prepaid and addressed to a hotel, this 
 insures a bed on the passenger's arrival, and 
 saves trouble and expense ; or the hotel propri- 
 etor may be written to receive it and to pay the 
 charges for transportation, which are moderate. 
 This is a convenient way to manage with a 
 trunk, in order to be freed from it when travel- 
 ing on detour excursions. In Britain these goods 
 trains are comparatively rapid, but on the Con- 
 tinent a tourist may wait weeks for his luggage 
 by these trains. When rapid transportation is 
 wished, always send goods by express train, even 
 in Britain. 
 
 Still another mode of managing luggage is 
 the following, called " registration," which is vir- 
 tually our checking system, with receipts instead 
 of checks, and a careful weighing of all luggage. 
 At the station the tourist expresses his wish to 
 register his trunk to a given city ; the porter will 
 take it to a scales-stand, where an officer will 
 
RAILWAY LUGGAGE. IOI 
 
 weigh it, and will notify the " luggage-bureau 
 agent," who may or may not be the ticket clerk, 
 of the amount of it ; he will compute the charge 
 for excess luggage, if any, which the owner will 
 pay and receive a receipt for his trunk ; a label 
 is pasted upon the trunk, and it is ready for the 
 train. 
 
 In special reference to luggage on the Conti- 
 nent, the tourist should heed the injunction that 
 he register all of his pieces, except those small 
 ones which he keeps in his compartment, and pro- 
 cure a receipt before starting, even if there be no 
 charge made and no excess weight, and that he 
 carefully keep this receipt, as without it he can- 
 not obtain his luggage. Baggage once started, 
 for which a receipt has been given, cannot be 
 delivered to the owner until it has reached its 
 destination, even though it be on the same train 
 with him. It sometimes happens that unregis- 
 tered luggage will start in the same train with 
 its owner, but will be delayed on the route until 
 a later train. Especially is this so on the mail 
 trains of the through services between London 
 and many of the principal cities of the Conti- 
 nent, as it may be detained at the landing port 
 on account of want of time for the customs ex- 
 amination. This source of annoyance is pre- 
 vented by registration, as only registered lug- 
 gage is entirely cared for by the officials, in 
 transferring it from line to line, and at places 
 where the customs officers inspect it, the owner 
 simply being present to open it for examina- 
 tion. If it be not registered he must look after it 
 at all of these stations, which is a source of end- 
 less perplexity to the American tourist. It is 
 far safer for a traveler to keep his luggage on 
 the same train with himself, registering it, than 
 
102 RAILWAY LUGGAGE. 
 
 to send it by another train, particularly when 
 traveling on the Continent, if he would be spared 
 vexatious delays and expenses. 
 
 A tourist should make it a point of business 
 to be at the station in early season, especially 
 if he has luggage to be put upon the train, and, 
 if it is to be registered, the porter should be 
 encouraged to attend to it at once. It may hap- 
 pen that there are a number of pieces ahead of 
 his to be weighed, in which case he must pa- 
 tiently await his turn, unless his porter volun- 
 teers to slide his trunk into the scales before the 
 others, in which event the tourist will find it to 
 his own interest to offer no question as to the 
 methods of the porter — porters are so queer ! To 
 avoid these possible delays, let the traveler be at 
 the station in ample time, and then give vigorous 
 personal attention to his own luggage, and him- 
 self see it properly disposed of in the proper van. 
 
COACHES AND DILIGENCES. 103 
 
 XX.— Coaches and Diligences. 
 
 In the Scottish Highlands, the English Lake 
 District, and Switzerland, the tourist travels much 
 by coach, or diligence, as it is called on the Con- 
 tinent. The English coach is a royal establish- 
 ment ; it is a large, heavy, strong, open or closed 
 four-wheeled wagon, and is drawn by two, four 
 or six horses. In the Lake District, running be- 
 tween Ulleswater and Windermere, were closed 
 coaches, each drawn by four horses, two abreast. 
 The passengers were divided, some being inside 
 the coach, the rest upon the top of the box, which 
 was provided with seats over its whole extent. 
 In Scotland, one of the high open coaches from 
 Ballachulish to Glencoe was drawn by five horses, 
 three abreast in the lead. The seats, seven in 
 number, extended across the coach, four of them 
 facing forward and three backward, and each seat 
 holding five persons, the passengers mounting by 
 a long ladder. The driver and conductor were 
 dressed in livery of Queen's scarlet. The rate of 
 speed was lively, all that could be desired. All 
 the drivers pride themselves in their skill at 
 cracking their long whip-lashes with great flour- 
 ishes and loud reports, and with such unerring 
 aim that they could annihilate a fly upon the left 
 or right ear of the leaders in the team without 
 letting the horses know that anything had hap- 
 pened, except that the fly had ceased to sting. 
 
 The Swiss diligence, drawn usually by four 
 horses, somewhat resembles the English coach in 
 its external appearance. It contains three com- 
 
104 COACHES AND DILIGENCES. 
 
 partments, the coupe, or forward portion, consist- 
 ing of one seat, which holds three persons, and in 
 the front and at the sides has glass windows ; the 
 interieur, or middle division, which has two seats 
 for six persons ; the rotonde, or rear, is entered 
 by doors behind, and accommodates six passen- 
 gers. On the roof, over the coupe, is the coach- 
 man's seat, behind which is the banquette, a seat 
 for three persons. The luggage is placed on the 
 top, back of the banquette. There is another 
 form of the Swiss diligence which has the coupe 
 and the coachman's seat, but the interieur and 
 the rotonde are wanting, the lower part of the 
 coach being used for luggage, while the whole 
 top, above the luggage, is provided with seats 
 much like the Glencoe coach above described, 
 only there is a light awning over the passengers 
 to shield them against the sun. This form of 
 diligence is very enjoyable, being strong, airy 
 and sightly. Passengers must apply at the dili- 
 gence office that they may be booked, and, in the 
 order of their application, select their seats, which 
 are all numbered, and for which receipts should 
 be taken in order to save disputes about them 
 afterward. These diligences have each its driver, 
 who tends his team solely, and its conductor, 
 who also ' ; brakes " the establishment when going 
 down hills. The drivers are skillful Jehus, filling 
 the air when coming into town with innumerable 
 genuflexions and pop-gun explosions from the 
 cracker ; indeed, they are so expert at this that it 
 seems as if they would crack the day of doom, 
 and the passengers often wish that doom would 
 crack .... the driver ! 
 
 Tourists new in the experience will soon 
 discover that they must not be idle at stations 
 where they leave trains or boats for coaches, if 
 
COACHES AND DILIGENCES. 105 
 
 they would not be put off with the least desirable 
 seats. They will find a general rushing for the 
 coach; the novitiate must also hasten and throw 
 his piece of luggage up into a seat to secure it 
 until he can ascend, if indeed, even though he 
 be first at the coach, he be not then dismayed to 
 find all the desirable seats already engaged. In the 
 route through the Trossachs and in the Lake 
 District this surely is a thing to note. 
 
 It may not be out of place here to remark 
 that livery stables are called " Posting Estab- 
 lishments." Among the kinds of vehicles in 
 Britain there are the carriage, the dog-cart, the 
 drag, and the wagonette. In Ireland is the jaunt- 
 ing-car. On the Continent are the drosky, the 
 voiture, the carriage and the wagonette. The 
 wagon roads in Europe are most excellent, being 
 smooth and hard, after McAdam. 
 
I06 STUDYING THE COUNTRY. 
 
 XXI.— Studying the Country. 
 
 The American tourist, approaching the shores 
 of Europe for the first time, will be impressed 
 strangely with the appearance of the land ; 
 he will be disappointed, in all probability, and 
 very naturally ; the view will want some of the 
 largeness of islands, of hills, and of forests, which 
 his imagination had pictured to him, probably 
 for no reason except that it is Europe ; the shores, 
 even the bluffs and highlands, will seem low, 
 partly because of their unappreciated distances, 
 partly on account of the general barrenness or 
 nakedness of the hills, partly by reason of the 
 absence of forests, and partly in that the build- 
 ings which may be in sight, if not a city or town, 
 appear low and few in number ; in addition to 
 these, the colors of the landscape, especially in 
 summer time, are of fresh, soft, yellowish-greens 
 which evidently have the effect of adding to the 
 notion of lowness and strangeness. Each 
 country has its own characteristics. The High- 
 lands of Scotland are in general high-relief. 
 Although Ben Nevis, the highest point in Great 
 Britain, reaches up only 4,406 feet, the Bens, or 
 mountains, rise up in long, bold, naked, green 
 and heather-purple-and-brown colored elevations, 
 sometimes broken into abrupt bluffs more or less 
 rugged, oftener continuous for long miles which 
 are valuable as " sheep marches," sometimes 
 losing themselves in muirs or in straths, some- 
 times suddenly cut in twain by lochs, or by glens 
 which are deepened in solitude by ominous tarns, 
 
STUDYING THE COUNTRY. 107 
 
 occasionally sloping down and out into vast 
 level acres of fine arable land, as at Inverness. 
 
 The mountains in Switzerland are higher; 
 Mont Blanc, lifting its bold, broad, snow-white 
 head sublimely upwards into the misty air nearly 
 sixteen thousand feet ; the tops of the mount- 
 ains are peaks, rough, jagged, standing in the 
 loftiness of their isolated grandeur, holding their 
 everlasting watch over the deep ravines, the rush- 
 ing cataracts, the roadways as ribbons for nar- 
 rowness, the shepherd flocks as mere white 
 specks upon the steeps for distance. All these 
 are wards of those noble mountain-tops that 
 listen, amid their eternal solitudes, to the echoes of 
 the shepherd horn as its tones float deviously 
 upward among the clouds amidst which rest the 
 snows, which are ever deepening and yet never 
 satisfying to the ponderous glacier and the 
 crashing avalanche. The Jungfrau, as seen from 
 Berne, sixty miles distant, and Mont Blanc, as 
 seen from Geneva, forty-five miles away, are 
 views that are never to be forgotten for their 
 sublime, though mute language to the sympa- 
 thetic tourist. The lofty passes, the rushing 
 streams, the embosomed lakes with their crystal- 
 clear waters, the steep ascents, all these are so 
 many new revelations to the traveler among the 
 Alps. 
 
 Returning again to the Highlands, they may 
 be summed up in this : That the tourist will 
 leave them with the wish that they were higher. 
 The waterfalls seem small, often mere brooklet- 
 dashes, to an American who has seen our own. 
 The inland lochs are beautiful quiet sheets of 
 water which rest among the hills, reflecting the 
 landscapes as do mirrors. The buildings are 
 few, except at centres. Some of the stations 
 
108 STUDYING THE COUNTRY. 
 
 and landings consist of one long name of sound- 
 ing import, and one small hotel standing solitary 
 in the mountain loneliness. Quite occasionally 
 the tourist suddenly comes in sight of some ruined 
 castle or palace upon which he brings his glass, 
 half expecting to see some of its ancient heroes 
 looking out over the ruined walls, and he turns 
 him away sorrowful, because he sees them not. 
 He often gazes far up an historic glen, and over 
 the shore-islands, and into the caves, and would 
 not be astonished to behold rushing forth the 
 Fingals, and the Ossians, and the Clans 
 in full array, or the stag and hound 
 down the glens, or the Lady standing on 
 the shore of the Isle, or the Lords of the Isles 
 leading forth their retainers. Sir Walter Scott 
 has thrown so deep a glamour of romance, inter- 
 woven with real history, over his native land 
 that the tourist has hard work to rid himself of 
 the notion of the fiction in the case; the romantic 
 becomes the more real. 
 
 England is one vast farm, as also is the Low- 
 land country of Scotland. In England, the 
 fields are often small, sometimes large ; the 
 fences of stone, of wire, of occasional panel, and 
 of abundant hedges, run any and all ways, 
 nearly, except at right angles and parallel to 
 each other ; the larger trees growing at indefinite 
 intervals ; the cattle, some with horns, and some 
 without ; the flocks of sheep ; the many horses ; 
 the narrow, retiring roads, bordered by hedges; 
 the high state of tillage ; the northern, or Lake 
 District, romantic as well as picturesque in its 
 hills, drives, low mountains, placid lakes, old 
 towns, ancient towers, and historic associations; 
 the ruined cathedrals and castles, the quaint 
 thatch roof cottages, the stately mansions 
 
STUDYING THE COUNTRY. 109 
 
 resting amidst the policies ; the young forests ; 
 all these lend a charm to the English landscape 
 which is often rightly called the garden. 
 
 France with her landscape which is inlined by 
 her chalky-white roads, without fences ; which 
 includes extensive forests ; which is more pro- 
 nounced in its perspective effects from the 
 frequent rows of tall poplars ; which includes 
 hedge-rows for fences, yet not over many of them; 
 which contains strong reliefs of the bordering 
 mountain ranges ; which shows hills of chalk, 
 whole acres and miles of it ; which presents 
 innumerable fields of vine-clad slopes ; France, 
 with all this diversity of scene in her landscape, 
 though highly attractive, is yet monotonous. 
 
 Holland has her landscape of lowlands, with 
 the many narrow and few wide canals, which 
 constitute the fences between the fields upon 
 which feed the sheep and cattle — with the small 
 vessels riding up from the ocean in the larger 
 canals, high above the fields, and alongside of 
 the houses situated far inland — with the willows 
 growing upon the banks of the canals, to stay 
 them from being washed away — with her hun- 
 dreds of windmills whose arms make alive the 
 air with weird gnome-like gesticulations — with 
 rows of trees somewhat tall, bordering an occa- 
 sional road — with beautiful farms without canals, 
 in some of its districts — with beautiful cities 
 here and there, having streets whose cen- 
 ters are canals, bordered on both sides with 
 roadwa3 r s, which are still widened by narrow 
 sidewalks — in short, with almost everything to 
 emphasize the literal fact that the " Dutch have 
 conquered Holland," with all this level expanse 
 of landscape, yet it is charming and alive with 
 quaint variety. 
 
IIO STUDYING THE COUNTRY. 
 
 Without attempting more in detail, it may 
 suffice to say in general, that all the forests in 
 Central Europe are planted, and are hence 
 young, vigorous, and uniform, in the same forest, 
 in the size of the trees — that the immense vine- 
 covered slopes in the Rhine district, and 
 the Rhine itself, with its pontoon bridges and 
 flying-ferries, give a picturesque effect — and that 
 the fields in Germany still show the old custom 
 of rotation of crops which are planted in long 
 narrow strips, situated side by side, with no inter- 
 vening fences, the divisions simply marked by 
 stone posts at the ends of the lots. The country 
 in Europe is peculiar, as compared to American 
 landscapes, in this, that it is more rich in those 
 elements which enter into the demands of the land- 
 scape painter — the colors, the contours, the ex- 
 tents, the decay attending an old civilization, 
 rather than the decay of unsubdued wilderness, 
 the general configuration of the hills and valleys, 
 all these serve Art with an abundance of avail- 
 able materials which the gifted seize and trans- 
 fer to immortal canvas. 
 
 The tourist in traveling the higher mountain 
 lands needs his guide, his supply of food which 
 his guide will carry, his long and strong staff, his 
 Claude Lorraine mirror, his substantial clothing, 
 and an ample stock of appetite, physical endur- 
 ance, and patience. 
 
INSTITUTION OF FEEING. Ill 
 
 XXII.— Institution of Feeing. 
 
 Feeing is an institution of itself in Europe. 
 The American tourist runs against it constantly, 
 feeling greatly annoyed by it, and well he may, 
 for its unpleasant features alone come most 
 prominently within his daily experience — indeed, 
 it is new to him, for he has not given it thought 
 enough from his simple hearsay knowledge of 
 it, to discern that there is but comparatively little 
 like it, as an institution, in his own country. It 
 is probable that the institution of fees was intro- 
 duced into the Northern and Central countries of 
 Europe by the Romans, and that it also took 
 activity from the feudal system. In Rome the 
 lawyers never charged clients for their legal ser- 
 vices, they were above it, they labored for the 
 honor and influence which might come from their 
 services — they received gratuities, however, from 
 their clients, and laws were made forbidding 
 the accepting of gratuities which exceeded a 
 specified sum. With certain modifications for 
 special classes of the lesser ranks of the legal 
 profession, the spirit of this old Roman custom 
 and law is still observed, and is powerful in Eng- 
 land, Scotland, and Paris, at the present time. 
 
 The same customs and laws are in vogue, 
 although with a less degree of observance, in the 
 profession of medicine in Britain, and possibly 
 also in some portions of the Continent. This 
 spirit and practice are also prominent to-day in 
 the United States, in the matter of marriage fees, 
 
112 INSTITUTION OF FEEING. 
 
 and of clergymens' fees for conducting funeral 
 and baptismal services. 
 
 The theory upon which these practices are sus- 
 tained is, that the professional gentleman should 
 be entirely independent of any consideration for 
 services, in order that he shall not be under any 
 bias from a stipulated fee, either in medicine or 
 in law. It is held that much of the honorable 
 reputation of the Bar and the Bench in Europe, 
 is due solely to the independence which the 
 absence of any expectation of certain fees has 
 given to the profession. 
 
 The spirit of the feudal system was authority 
 and obedience to authority. The lords exercised 
 authority in peremptory commands — they would 
 brook no demand except from those who had the 
 right to make the demand — they were gentlemen 
 with a high sense of honor according to the code 
 then in force, and they would not be dictated to 
 as to the value of services rendered by a subor- 
 dinate — they set their own estimate upon the 
 value of the services accepted by them — they 
 would have been insulted at the suggestion from 
 an inferior, relative to the value of any given 
 favor. The subordinates, in tern, would not at- 
 tempt to name a sum for favors bestowed by 
 by them, they left the whole matter to the gener- 
 osity of the chief — they gave their services and 
 said nothing, but accepted with thanks whatso- 
 ever was handed them. The gentlemen prided 
 themselves upon being liberal to subordinates 
 for favors bestowed. 
 
 Servants were hired at the fairs, until very 
 recently, by giving them a gratuity, which by 
 their accepting it, bound the bargain between 
 master and help. The many fair-days, and some 
 of the holidays at the present time, are not so 
 
INSTITUTION OF FEEING. 113 
 
 much a matter of positive law, as they are de- 
 mands by the servants and laboring classes that 
 they be allowed these days as gratuities which 
 the wealthy and nobility should grant them. 
 These are instances, on an extended scale, in 
 which the spirit of the institution of feeing 
 manifests itself as a strong power in European 
 society. Hence, in general terms it may be said 
 that European society is permeated, literally 
 honey-combed, with the various phases of the 
 spirit of feeing, and of the custom of giving 
 gratuities. Positive laws have gradually come 
 into being for regulating the amount of the 
 gratuities, and have thus converted many of 
 those voluntary fees into stipulated legal dues, 
 in order that justice for all parties should be 
 better established. But the spirit of a great 
 people, especially in Europe, is tenacious of its 
 ancient states, and is jealous of its former cus- 
 toms. Hence it is that the spirit of feeing, as an 
 institution, is still in full vigor, almost in its 
 pristine glory, all through society, even though 
 statute law has given to it a partial form and 
 direction; it often asserts its claims and considers 
 itself in legitimate activity whenever it can 
 return in practice to its former estate of giving 
 and receiving, or of demanding and compelling. 
 The law now stands guard against extortion 
 and fraud, but not against the attempts at them 
 which the cupidity of human nature and the old 
 institutions stimulate. Between these powers 
 the conscience of the average man will step 
 into a shaded corner in the presence of the re- 
 spected customs of his honorable ancestors. 
 Hence, in Europe to-day, fees are offered and 
 are received, not as bribes, but as legitimate 
 transactions in full conformity with the genius of 
 
114 INSTITUTION OF FEEING. 
 
 their institutions. It is undoubtedly true that 
 the more enlightened of European statesmen 
 realize the evils of the institution, and are hoping 
 as well as laboring for the suppression of it, as is 
 evidenced in enacting laws and in putting up 
 public notices which strictly forbid the accepting 
 of fees in certain specified instances. 
 
 All the foregoing being assumed, the question 
 arises, particularly to an American who is entirely 
 unacquainted with such an institution, what is 
 duty in the matter when traveling in Europe. 
 To answer this is not my province, except as 
 shall appear in the following : The tourist 
 should first inform himself as well as possible 
 about the law which relates to his own interests, 
 as cab fares and the like. He should then care- 
 fully study what are the customs of the people 
 concerning the things which come within the 
 range of his own necessary experience. A good 
 business American much prefers to know at once 
 exactly what any given service is to cost him ; 
 then he can accept or reject the offer ; then he 
 can estimate his business transactions in a busi- 
 ness manner ; it is all open dealing. Not being 
 accustomed to conduct affairs upon any other 
 basis, having no other business education, he is 
 placed hors de combat when he comes into the pres- 
 ence of the system of feeing ; his pride contends 
 with his business judgment ; he despises mean- 
 ness and penuriousness ; he would be favorably 
 regarded by the foreigners among whom he trav- 
 els ; he dislikes to confess necessary economy ; 
 the servants catch his case and play upon his 
 pride and his generosity and his fear in order to 
 increase their own gains. Under all these cir- 
 cumstances he knows not what to do, nor how 
 much to give, when a servant says to him, " The 
 
INSTITUTION OF FEEING. II5 
 
 gentleman's pleasure," and touches his hat to 
 him so politely. Foreigners say to Americans 
 that they are spoiling servants in Europe by over- 
 feeing them, and that the servants of all grades 
 are fast coming to regard American travelers as 
 very desirable for promiscuous and wholesale 
 plunder. 
 
 As an American, I utter my protest against 
 this, and ask my fellow-countrymen to guard 
 against adding to this tendency to extortion and 
 demoralization. 
 
 It is often a delicate query with the tourist how 
 much to give servants and guides, these " func- 
 tionaries that serve the public and must be paid 
 by the public." In this dilemma a safe way is to 
 put the case to some intelligent gentleman who 
 is at hand ; ask of him the favor to inform you of 
 the custom and liberality in the case. If this 
 be put in a proper spirit of candor the tourist 
 will not be dishonorably dealt with. It will soon 
 appear that threepence, or sixpence, or a shilling, 
 is a good fee where the tourist had thought of 
 double the amount. A porter carries your trunk 
 to the depot, he will be content with a shilling ; 
 he lifts your trunk from a carriage into the depot, 
 he will be content with threepence or a six- 
 pence ; he carries your trunk up to your room 
 and brings it down again, he will be content 
 with a sixpence or a little more. The cab-drivers 
 in Paris claim so much for the regular fare and a 
 few sous as an extra or " pour boire." 
 
 The effect of the fee upon the servant is hap- 
 pily described by Hawthorne in his " Notes on 
 England " : " At an English hotel, the traveler 
 feels as if everybody, from the landlord down- 
 ward, united in a joint and individual purpose to 
 fleece him, because all the attendants who come 
 
Il6 INSTITUTION OF FEEING. 
 
 in contact with him are to be separately consid- 
 ered. So, after paying, in the first instance, a 
 very heavy bill for what would seem to cover the 
 whole indebtedness, there remain divers dues 
 still to be paid, to no trifling amount, to the land- 
 lord's servants — dues not to be ascertained, and 
 which you can never know whether you have 
 properly satisfied. You can know, perhaps, when 
 you have less than satisfied them by the aspect 
 of the waiter, which I wish I could describe — not 
 disrespectful in the slightest degree, but a look of 
 profound surprise, a gaze at the offered coin 
 (which he nevertheless pockets) as if he did not 
 see it, or did not know it, or could not believe his 
 eyesight ; all this, however, with the most quiet 
 forbearance, a Christian-like non-recognition of 
 an unmerited wrong and insult ; and finally, all 
 in a moment's space indeed, he quits you and 
 goes about his other business. If you have given 
 him too much, you are made sensible of your 
 folly by the extra amount of his gratitude, and 
 the bows with -which he salutes you from the 
 doorstep. Generally, you cannot very decidedly 
 say whether you have been right or wrong, but 
 in almost all cases you decidedly feel that you 
 have been fleeced." 
 
 The ordinary services in your room at the ho- 
 tel and attention at the table are not subjects for 
 fees, which are only for extra services. Hence, 
 tourists should exercise much caution in making 
 extra demands upon servants, if they would es- 
 cape the obligation for fees. If the tourist has 
 only light hand-luggage he can carry it to his 
 room himself. This will cut off expectations for 
 fees. If a guide forces himself upon your atten- 
 tion, as he often will, tell him if he goes with you 
 he must do it without fee, simply for the " honor 
 
INSTITUTION OF FEEINO. I 17 
 
 of enjoying your company," and then hold to the 
 bargain. Be very careful about making what 
 may be called half-bargains and then not finish- 
 ing them, for it will be claimed that you agreed 
 to do thus and so in order to compel pay from 
 you. Instances of this are not rare. 
 
 It is curious to observe the disposition of the 
 servants who are given fees. Give a porter in 
 Paris a small fee for lifting a trunk to its desti- 
 nation, and he will hold it in his open hand right 
 before you, and probably will give you to under- 
 stand in some way that he is a deeply injured per- 
 son and that you are a miser. Give a porter in 
 London the same and he will probably take it 
 in his closed hand and quickly slide it into his 
 pocket without looking at it, and will thank you 
 so politely that you will possibly feel abashed 
 at the smallness of it. The Parisian claims his 
 fee as a right, the Londoner accepts it as a 
 gratuity. 
 
 The way in which some large buildings can be 
 visited is a study. The tourist pays an admission 
 fee ; he goes to such a place ; then he inspects 
 another department, under another guide, for an 
 extra fee. In time he gets through with the 
 whole — building, guides and fees. Tourists so 
 disposed can often gain access to forbidden 
 rooms, and can open rusty doors, and can secure 
 special favors, which other means fail to com- 
 mand from servants and officials, by means of 
 fees timely introduced. 
 
Il8 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 
 
 XXIII.— Spirit of the Tourist. 
 
 Before starting on a visit to Europe, the tourist 
 should have a clear idea concerning what he 
 proposes to accomplish, for he should not travel 
 in uncertainty of purposes. If he goes for no one 
 special object, but to note what he may, he should 
 classify his purposed observations in some good 
 order, so as not to enter upon his tour without 
 some general lines about which to associate the 
 individual objects that shall pass his view ; it 
 will be far better to have a poor classification 
 than none. For instance, under the idea of 
 general observations, suppose the tourist arrange 
 something like the following classification : 
 Hotels ; the poorer classes of people ; the wealth- 
 ier classes ; forms of government ; railways ; 
 steamboats ; methods of doing business ; natural 
 scenery; fine art; industrial art; comforts of life, 
 the so-called luxuries ; amusements ; wages for 
 labor; state of education ; state of religion ; 
 street scenes ; holiday scenes, and the like. With 
 some such classification, every thing seen will 
 have some line of association, and travel will be 
 far more profitable. Aimless travel is compli- 
 mentary neither to the human intellect nor to 
 the works of the Creator. 
 
 The tourist should have well-established habits 
 of observation, by which is meant that he should 
 have the vigorous and normal use of his senses 
 which should be constantly on the alert for what- 
 ever new impressions may chance along. To 
 travel in a strange country amid ever-passing 
 
SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 119 
 
 novel scenes, is to be constantly subject to 
 marked and sudden impressions, thoughts and 
 feelings, which arise because the scenes beheld 
 are unfamiliar. These new ideas are precisely 
 the measure of the difference between what is 
 familiar and what is strange. The value of 
 travel is to be estimated, not by the number of 
 things in the outer world that have passed before 
 one's observation, but by the number and impor- 
 tance of the new thoughts, new emotions, new 
 relations and expansions of former views, which 
 spring up and are noted within the soul of the 
 traveler. The only place to search for a record 
 of the value of travel is within one's own sub- 
 jective self, one's own intellect and heart. 
 
 The importance that should be attached to 
 anything observed by the tourist is not so much 
 what the object is in itself, as what it is to him, 
 to his own mind. To the end that the highest 
 advantage may be derived from a tour in a 
 strange land, the traveler should carry to the 
 scenes of his visit as much information of these 
 places, both general and special, as he may be 
 able to command, because the more he takes with 
 him to any given scene the more will the view 
 yield to him in- return. Yet on this point it is 
 suggested that the common practice of viewing 
 objects of interest simply through the medium of 
 guide books is not a profitable one, for they point 
 out the facts relating to a place, the main facts 
 that can be readily grasped — beyond these the 
 books are speechless. They should be put aside, 
 out of mind almost, and the objects themselves 
 in all of their spirit, their old history, their life, 
 should be sought, and to the greatest extent 
 possible, comprehended. The intellect and 
 emotions of the tourist should be put into active 
 
120 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 
 
 sympathy with the scenes amidst which he travels; 
 the records of the visit should be made in the 
 tourist's own mind ; he should read within him- 
 self the narrative or the description which the 
 outside scenes suggest. This is not sentimental- 
 ism, which is nothing but an artificial and over- 
 stimulated excitement of a weak intellect, and of 
 a sickly, emotional being; rather is it the worthy 
 feeling of the nobility of the human soul seeking 
 to interpret the true spirit of the scene beheld. 
 To secure this high purpose, the tourist must 
 approach every new object in a state of mind 
 which is neutral as to opinions and expectations, 
 but which is powerfully active in its susceptibility 
 for receiving impressions ; the tourist should 
 present himself before his object of study with 
 no anticipation other than that he expects to be 
 impressed in some way, but in what particular 
 manner impressed must await experience. By 
 this course he will scarcely ever be disappointed 
 at beholding new objects, for disappointment is 
 simply a consciousness that the object seen differs 
 from the idea of it which had been previously 
 formed in his mind. Who is to blame for this ? 
 Surely not the object, not this castle, this ruin, 
 this mountain. Tourists are too prone to assume 
 themselves the creators of the things they 
 propose to inspect, and then grumble at the 
 actual creations because the designer did not 
 make them according to the ideas which they 
 now bring. What a grand panoramic and ka- 
 leidoscopic state of mobility would the world daily 
 be in ! This hill would be higher, lower, greener, 
 more wooded, less wooded, flatter, more peaked, 
 all at the same time in order to meet the views of 
 any given company of travelers. The only pos- 
 sible way in which objects can accommodate 
 
SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 121 
 
 themselves easily to the tourist is, through the 
 powers of adaptibility and susceptibility of his 
 own being. The simple rule is, that the tourist 
 must carry himself along in that common sense 
 manner before mentioned ; to expect nothing 
 except to be impressed, and be vigilant to mark 
 those impressions. To travel in this state of 
 mind brings happiness and profit at all times ; it 
 exorcises censoriousness, it readily adapts itself 
 to changing circumstances, it makes the best of 
 all experiences, and puts a cheerful face upon 
 the occasional delays, attempts at extortion, 
 poor meals, rainy weather, and accidents gener- 
 ally, which are apt to occasion a disarrangement 
 of a daily programme. It is worth repeating 
 with emphasis, that a traveler takes knowledge 
 away with him only as he brings intelligence 
 along with him to his observations. 
 
 The tourist is harmed for profitable traveling 
 if he is in any state of bias or of prejudice, con- 
 cerning what he sees. The habit of looking at 
 the Old World with a mind strongly prejudiced 
 against it, gives only partial knowledge of what 
 is actually seen. To magnify everything Ameri- 
 can is equally weak, and in bad taste. To draw 
 comparisons upon partial and uncertain observa- 
 tions is unwise and misleading ; it is pedantic. 
 As an American, I protest against two states of 
 mind that are sometimes met in my countrymen 
 abroad. The first is, that complaining and ego- 
 tistical spirit which degrades everything in Europe 
 as so much poorer, more uncomfortable, more 
 miserable, than in the United States ; the trees 
 are not as high, the mountains are not so lofty, 
 the water is not so good to drink, the weather is 
 horrible, "the salmon steak is horrid," " this is 
 not as good as it is with us in America !" The 
 
122 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 
 
 second is, that fawning, sickly, sentimental spirit, 
 which is willing to sacrifice everything American 
 to a dishonorable position alongside of things 
 European. A little incident or two will illustrate 
 this point. An American, a young man, gradu- 
 ated from one of our colleges, was traveling in 
 the Highlands in Scotland upon the journey 
 with us. He was descanting to a European gen- 
 tleman upon the general superiority of Europe 
 over America. The conversation turned upon 
 the climate and its effect upon the system; the 
 young man ventured the assertion that nearly all 
 Americans " talked through the nose," because 
 the climate is so unhealthful, so subject to change, 
 so damp ; and then so dry. Another American 
 gentleman, a physician, standing hard by, here 
 put in the remark that the true reason for this 
 peculiarity of the Americans is not that given, 
 but this : " The weather is so very cold during 
 the winters that the noses freeze tight up, and 
 the summers are not warm enough to thaw them 
 out again." At another time this young man 
 was explaining to his foreign auditor that he 
 himself was the only true American in that com- 
 pany, which consisted of some fifteen or twenty 
 Americans from various parts of the United 
 States ; that all the rest were from America, it 
 was true, but that they were only the progeny of 
 the riff-raff, which years ago floated over to 
 America from Europe. The doctor above refer- 
 red to was an attentive listener. A short time 
 afterwards, the aforesaid foreign gentleman came 
 up to him and asked if what the young man had 
 said of this party were true ; and further asked : 
 " Is he himself an American ?" Said the doctor : 
 " I am sorry to say that he is ; but he is of that 
 type which we, in America, call the ass !" Said 
 
SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 1 23 
 
 the foreigner : " An ass, sir ! He is a damn 
 fool, sir !" We all mentally thanked the last 
 speaker for acting as spokesman for our party. 
 
 It is truly humiliating to an American traveler 
 to find, as he so often does among the people of 
 Europe, such crude notions existing in regard to 
 America ; how those things which are purely fan- 
 tastical with us, and exceptional and very rare at 
 that, form the staples of knowledge with them. 
 For instance, a gentleman, apparently well read 
 and scholarly, asked me about the wagons and 
 carriages in the United States ; if the chief vehi- 
 cle with us is not the " buck-board, which must 
 be a big thing !" " Then in winter you must 
 have gay times, traveling in your sleighs driven 
 over the snow by sails hoisted to the wind — it 
 must be a rum thing !" '* I suppose that in New 
 York City it is not safe for any one to stop at. 
 the hotels because of the robberies committed 
 there." " I think New York must be a very 
 unsafe place, for so many people are stolen from 
 its streets, in the day time, too." 
 
 On another occasion, my guide, a young Scotch- 
 man, about twenty-two or three years old, and a 
 bright fellow withal, educated in the public 
 schools of the country, said to me on the return 
 journey down Ben Nevis, " I suppose you would 
 not dare to travel in this way in America, it would 
 not be safe ?" We were alone, and it was about 
 eight o'clock in the afternoon of a July day, and 
 no indication of darkness about us. I, somewhat 
 astonished, asked him why. " Because of being 
 robbed," said he. " I suppose nearly everybody 
 there goes armed, and it is dangerous for a 
 stranger to be alone in such places with guides, 
 as we are." 
 
 These are illustrations of the crooked knowl- 
 
124 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 
 
 edge which " straightens out " so many foreigners 
 when they once come here and observe for them- 
 selves. We laugh at it and ridicule it, but still 
 this lamentable ignorance is a solemn fact. The 
 trouble lies in this, that general inferences are 
 drawn from only a few incidents or facts, and 
 these facts are exceptional and not in any way 
 truly representative. Another element is this, 
 that highly-colored, sensational, cock-and-bull 
 stories, are the ones which are most taking, 
 longest remembered, and most impressive to the 
 mass of mind. Tourists who only half see and 
 understand what is observed in traveling are so 
 often those who feel free to call upon their imag- 
 inations for whatever facts they may not have 
 seen, may have misunderstood, or may want. 
 
 Americans will return from foreign travel 
 many times with their minds filled with nothing 
 but the monstrosities of foreign countries ; it is 
 truly a monstrous state of things to return 
 home with only this rude mind and this except- 
 ional and unrepresentative knowledge. Travelers 
 should honor their own intellects and hearts 
 more than herein appears in too many cases. 
 
 The tourist ought to have with him a small 
 pocket blank-book, in which to jot down briefly, 
 as occasions pass, his fleeting impressions and 
 thoughts, and also the suggestions which he may 
 hear, and the notes of scenes visited. This can be 
 done unobtrusively, modestly, and yet fully. 
 These notes can afterwards be extended from 
 memory. Impressions once past are liable to be 
 lost ; hence, note them at the time when they 
 are fresh. This work is not an easy task, unless 
 the habit of doing it be fixed and the determina- 
 tion positive; without these notes very much of the 
 most profitable experience of a tour is forever 
 
SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 1 25 
 
 lost. For the facts relating to places, their 
 history and the like, trust the guide books to 
 help ; do not note aught of those matters. 
 Keep the note-book as a record of subjective 
 experiences in great part, as well as of little 
 incidents of daily travel, which the books cannot 
 give. These two questions should be constantly 
 present to the mind of the tourist, viz : How 
 much do I know of this just witnessed ? and 
 how much can I communicate to those whom I 
 may meet and who may desire information about 
 what I have witnessed ? 
 
 A tourist should be able to sketch rapidly 
 with a pencil, even if it be only roughly done. 
 Many scenes can never be so truly and character- 
 istically portrayed as by a pencil sketch. Many views 
 are caught only while passing by upon the cars, 
 boat, or coach. A few strokes in a small pocket 
 sketch-book will bring out the character of the 
 scene in after years. In addition to sketching, 
 there are times when water-colors could be used 
 to great advantage in matching delicate colors 
 which can not be easily recalled. A small and 
 cheap assortment will suffice, together with a 
 hair pencil. The colors can be mixed very 
 readily and laid on a paper and thus retained. 
 This is especially valuable upon boat excursions 
 where the tourist easily finds a seat at a table, 
 and where the passage by a scene is not so rapid 
 as to be out of sight before the colors can be 
 prepared and the comparison made. 
 
 An American will be impressed with the gen- 
 eral quietness of the people 'in Europe — their 
 low conversation at hotels, in dining- saloons, in 
 parlors, in the stations, on the steamboats, and in 
 the streets of the cities. While there is a cease- 
 
126 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 
 
 less rush, hurry and skurry, yet the rough, bois- 
 terous, noisy, yelling vagabond is rarely seen. 
 
 The American tourist often brings himself into 
 unenviable notice by his habit of loud laughing 
 and of loud talking, especially at the tables in 
 the hotels or in an assembly in a saloon. What 
 makes it more humiliating is the fact that some 
 of our women are so boisterous at these places, 
 and in a mixed company, that they become the 
 subjects of very unpleasant, discourteous remarks 
 from the foreigners as well as Americans who 
 may be present. 
 
 I desire to note here some points of character 
 which are made to appear to us often in such a 
 light that we feel humiliated because we are 
 guilty of them. This will bear investigation 
 before we need blame ourselves too much in the 
 case, as will herein appear. Americans have 
 the reputation abroad of being very inquisitive, 
 and there is undoubtedly much that occasions 
 the saying. While curiosity can be carried 
 too far, and in objectionable and discourteous 
 manners, and about matters which are per- 
 sonal and hence beyond the field of the travel- 
 er's inquiries, yet I am hardly willing to discour- 
 age this trait of our countrymen ; it is well, if it 
 be kept within proper limits. Quite often I was 
 asked by omnibus drivers, train guards, and cit- 
 izens if I was not an American. I said, " I am;" 
 and then, American-like, asked them what made 
 them think so ; the answer always was substan- 
 tially this : " The Americans never drop a mat- 
 ter until they know all about it." This was said 
 pleasantly, and the gentlemen inquired of always 
 entered heartily into the spirit of my questions. 
 I am fully persuaded that people are pleased to 
 give information to strangers who are courteous 
 
SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 1 27 
 
 and intelligent in their questions, and who appre- 
 ciate the attentions shown them. But it should 
 be duly remembered that the questions asked 
 should not savor of silliness, nor of dense igno- 
 rance on the part of those asking them ; it re- 
 quires a certain degree of knowledge to frame 
 questions properly. Foreigners are frank and 
 genial in expressing their willingness to afford 
 Americans ample opportunities for becoming ac- 
 quainted with their institutions, their customs, 
 and their condition ; they will put themselves to 
 trouble to serve these ends. 
 
 American vandalism, the marring and destroy- 
 ing of objects in order to secure some memento, 
 is deserving of severe censure. But when I was 
 told by our landlord in London that a certain 
 house in that city had to be actually fenced 
 about to save it from destruction at the hands of 
 the souvenir-seekers, I felt that vandalism is 
 not alone of the United States. It is also true in 
 Europe that great naming advertisements do not 
 disfigure in extent the fences and the rocks as 
 with us, yet the foreign passenger upon the 
 Metropolitan Railway in London will be fairly 
 bewildered at the variety and extent of the adver- 
 tisements which meet his eye along the route and 
 in the stations. When in London look out for 
 " Willing," the advertiser and 'bill-poster, the city 
 in some districts being almost tinged yellow with 
 his name and his bill-works. 
 
 " That boy/' so prominently before the Ameri- 
 can public, is found elsewhere. On some of the 
 trams in Glasgow are notices which warn boys, 
 under penalty, to keep from jumping upon the 
 platforms to the annoyance of passengers. On a 
 telegraph pole in Penrith, a North-of-England 
 
125 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 
 
 town, was fastened the following in prominent 
 letters : 
 
 " Caution — Throwing Stones at the Tele- 
 graphs. — On the 18th of July, a Youth was charged 
 before the Penrith magistrates with Throwing 
 Stones at the Telegraphs, and was fined 15s. and 
 costs. Notice is Hereby Given that all persons 
 Throwing Stones at the Telegraphs will be Prose- 
 cuted. By Command of Her Majesty's 
 
 Posm aster-General. 
 General Post-Office, 
 London, July 1876. 
 
 C. & S. (4,9 l8 ) 3°°, 7-76." 
 
 As showing further that our people are not 
 alone in shortcomings and in improprieties, I cite 
 two other suggestive notices which were con- 
 spicuously placed upon one of the gate-posts at 
 the entrance to the cemetery-yard lying upon the 
 Avon, and where stands the old church in which 
 rest the remains of Shakspeare : 
 
 " Notice. — All persons Loitering about the 
 church-yard, gates, Church Doors, or creating 
 any disturbance during Divine Service, will be 
 proceeded against, as the Law directs." 
 
 u £i Reward. 
 The above Reward will be paid to any Person 
 giving information that will lead to the convic- 
 tion of any Person or Persons taking the Flowers 
 from the Graves or Damaging in any way the 
 Trees or shrubs growing in this Churchyard." 
 
 This was signed by four church-wardens, and 
 dated July, 1877. 
 
 As still bearing upon the question of the de- 
 gree of humiliation under which Americans should 
 
SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 1 29 
 
 or should not travel in Europe, I note this, which 
 was in a railway-station restaurant at Stratford- 
 on-Avon. The words were arranged around a 
 showy portrait of the Bard of Avon, who is rep- 
 resented in his aldermanic physique. The ad- 
 vertisement explains itself : 
 
 FLOWER and SONS 
 Pale 
 
 Portrait 
 
 of 
 
 Shak. 
 
 Ale 
 
 Stratford-on-Avon 
 
 After reading advertisements like this one feels 
 that Englishmen as well as Americans hesitate 
 at no name that may give emphasis to the excel- 
 lence of their wares, and on special occasions we 
 are under no extra humiliation because a few of 
 our countrymen advertise with questionable taste 
 mingled with business vigor. The bar-maid in 
 attendance severely deprecated the idea of per- 
 verting the portrait of the Bard to such " base 
 uses " as that of commending pale ale. 
 
 In traveling in a company a tourist, exhibiting 
 eccentricities, will meet some one who will honor 
 him with an appellation which is supposed to be 
 founded upon some observed and characteristic 
 individualities. Here are a few that came under 
 my own observation: " The Great American 
 Boaster," " The Great American I Am," " The 
 American Flirt," "The Fault-Finder," "The 
 Walrus." 
 
 I wish to note another crying evil — it is that 
 some Americans travel in a foolish fear of what 
 the European Mrs. Grundy may say of them ; 
 they assume that they must spend money freely, 
 else the servants, perchance, will say unkind 
 
130 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 
 
 things of them. Any one who tries to satiate the 
 voracious appetite of European servants and 
 under-officials for gratuities will find it not only 
 impossible, but will, in the end, find himself the 
 veriest butt of ridicule by the very ones he tried 
 to conciliate. The whole thing is weak and dis- 
 gusting. Americans should, for the national 
 honor, never be ashamed to manifest a spirit and 
 a practice of a wise, not niggardly, economy 
 when in Europe, where the inhabitants are very 
 generally obliged to study it in so marked a 
 degree. This is simply prudence. This remark 
 which an Englishman made to us, of one of his 
 own countrymen, bearing upon the point of this 
 extravagance of his people, will convey its own 
 moral. Said he, " Yes, sir, this is as some Eng- 
 lishmen ; they earn their money like an 'orse and 
 spend it like a hass." Americans are as justly 
 entitled to proper value for money expended as 
 are Europeans. If I hire a guide for two marks 
 an hour, I should as emphatically demand two 
 full hours of his time, as he, two marks from my 
 purse. 
 
 While traveling rapidly, on foot and otherwise, 
 it is recommended that the tourist eat often, and 
 not so much at once. The excitement and the 
 labor, tend to produce a feverish state of the 
 body which needs to be regulated carefully by 
 proper nourishment and sleep. It is safe to say, 
 that water, as a drink, should be used very spar- 
 ingly — milk, tea, coffee, chocolate, soda-water, 
 seltzer-water, are drinks which can be had with 
 no difficulty, and at a trifling expense. Physical 
 health it necessary in order to enjoy vigorous 
 intellectual activity. 
 
 The tourist must disabuse his mind of any 
 idea that he will have an easy journey in Europe, 
 
SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 131 
 
 if he is on a short vacation tour, as he will be 
 constantly crowded for time. The train service 
 is exciting, crowding, clamorous, and jostling ; 
 the days will hurry by, and the routes to walk 
 will be many and long. The nervous strain upon 
 an American tourist is much greater in European 
 railway travel than in the United States, owing 
 to the compartment system, to the multitude of 
 railways which form a complete net-work over 
 portions of the country, to the numerous trains 
 which are continually going here and there, and 
 to the strangeness of the scenes in general. In 
 order to keep as vigorous as possible, it is best to 
 ride by some public service, whenever practica- 
 ble, to and from the places which the tourist 
 desires to visit, that he may thus conserve his 
 physical strength. 
 
 It should never be forgotton that politeness 
 costs nothing except attention, and that it is a 
 powerful element in traveling. It is an easy 
 matter to say " thank you," or, "if you please," 
 accompanying the words with a bow and a touch 
 of the hat. The tourist will be obliged often to 
 ask a foreigner to repeat his words, they not hav- 
 ing been fully understood ; under these circum- 
 stances it is only gracefully uttered, to say with a 
 slight bow, "I beg your pardon," or, "If you 
 please," holding the voice suspended at the close 
 of the expression. Politeness is a very essential 
 element at all times, and especially in Europe, 
 where the subordination of rank commands it. 
 True politeness is not fawning and servile — it is 
 manly and assured in its activities, and while it 
 kindly acknowledges courtesies, it also commands 
 respect for the nobility of its bearing. Politeness 
 will gain attentions where even fees, accompanied 
 with rudeness, can not enter. There are times 
 
[32 ' SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 
 
 when the gentleman's hat must be taken off by 
 him before officials will give him any notice. 
 Facts which came under my own observation, 
 urge me to condemn the habit which is emphati- 
 cally dogmatic ; a tourist desires a favor, suppose, 
 and instead of asking for it commands it, either 
 directly or indirectly, as " Let me in here," and 
 being stopped, says, " Why can't I be admitted ?" 
 This bravo, bluster, and rudeness, only serve to 
 irritate an official who is jealous of his honor 
 and position. The effect of rudeness upon the 
 tourist himself, who is negligent in this regard, is 
 unhappy. 
 
 When travelers are among those who use a 
 different language, they should always assume 
 that those present may possibly understand their 
 speech. By recollecting this, awkward embar- 
 rassments may often be avoided, especially in 
 reference to making comments in the presence 
 of those who are supposed to be unable to under- 
 stand them. It happens that a tourist enters 
 hotels where the tongue is strange, the servants 
 speaking not his language as far as he knows. 
 Yet these same servants may understand his 
 speech readily, they feigning this ignorance that 
 they may learn what is said about them. This 
 is true in some of the hotels in Paris. In making 
 purchases also, the tourist will do well to use his 
 familiar speech instead of stumbling along with 
 another, until he is assured that the salesman can 
 not converse with him in any other manner. 
 
 Among the peculiar and possible experiences 
 which are before a tourist is that of traveling in a 
 land where he is not familiar with the language, 
 and at the same time unaccompanied by any one 
 who speaks his own English tongue. The feeling 
 is that of loneliness, of great distance from 
 
SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 133 
 
 friends, of longing for some familiar speech, of 
 wonder at the positiveness of his own thought 
 that these people who look so intelligent can not 
 now and may never speak the English language, 
 of involuntary pity for the children because they 
 cannot understand him, of disturbed disgust that 
 this pleasant and apparently intelligent man 
 whom he accosts with a question only looks a 
 blank, and stupid, and pitying answer — in all this 
 disappointment, amid all this influence, he grows 
 silent and thoughtful, which is half pain-and- 
 weariness, — he takes his meals silently, pointing 
 for the dishes, hands out all of his small change 
 for pay, and is thankful if any of it be handed back 
 to him. 
 
 Suffer me a thought about the effect upon the 
 mind that follows the seeing of ruins, as of castles, 
 cathedrals, abbeys, and fortifications. We read 
 of these and we study pictures of them in the Art 
 Journals, — we associate with them former wealth, 
 grandeur and heroism, — we expect to see great 
 things in them. But it may be said plainly and 
 shortly that one is very often disappointed at the 
 sight of them, — they are, in so many cases, mere 
 heaps of stone, wastes for sheep-runs, and 
 semi-enclosures for vines, — only a few still 
 reveal somewhat of their former size and 
 magnificence. But their actual importance is 
 not in them as they now appear, it is in 
 their former history. In this connection one 
 word more may be permitted ; it is the spectacle 
 of a traveler so desirous of culture by means of 
 foreign travel that he ignores the thousand-and- 
 one things of daily observation as unworthy of 
 attention, and hastens off to spend all his time in 
 galleries of painting and of sculpture, looking at 
 works with an undiscriminating eye, but in the 
 
134 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 
 
 firm conviction that by some occult means culture 
 will ooze out of these objects and into his own 
 being. One says to this that such galleries can 
 not be seen in our own land ; it is granted ; 
 neither can one here see such a civilization as is 
 found in Europe, nor such landscapes, nor such 
 cities, nor such customs, nor such methods of do- 
 ing business, nor such appearing peoples. I 
 would not discourage studies in Art, but unless 
 one has large command of time and is a specialist, 
 it is questionable whether it is not more surely 
 conducive to sound culture to extend one's ob- 
 servations and studies over wider ranges of mate- 
 rials, for as Tylor says : " Culture or Civilization, 
 taken in its wide ethnographic sense, is that com- 
 plex whole which includes knowledge, belief, art, 
 morals, law, custom, and any other capabilities 
 and habits acquired by man as a member of 
 society." 
 
 Speaking of galleries reminds me to make a 
 suggestion about observing the pictures. One 
 should have a small opera-glass by means of 
 which to throw the flat surface into proper per- 
 spective, without which pictures are not actually 
 seen as they are. In the absence of a glass, one 
 can take a piece of paper and roll it into a cylin- 
 drical form, having its diameter at one end longer 
 than at the other; close one eye, and with the other 
 look at the picture through this tube, holding it 
 close about the eye in order to prevent the light 
 from interfering with the sight. But one can 
 discipline his eye unaided to view a flat copy in 
 perspective, by careful practice : close one eye, 
 then study the copy with the other, trying to 
 bring out the perspective effects ; in time the eye 
 will need neither the glass nor the roll of paper 
 in order to enjoy the full effects of the picture. 
 
SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 135 
 
 The old saying : " When one is in Rome he 
 must do as Romans do," is valuable, provided it 
 is properly understood. To do as the Romans 
 do is not to think in the Roman vocabulary, is 
 not to have Roman habits of thought, is not to 
 avow the Roman standards of morality, is not to 
 fellowship Roman degradation. For an Ameri- 
 can to do as the Romans do, is for himself, still 
 an American, to adapt himself readily and 
 easily to the Roman modes of ordinary living 
 and of business, to fall easily into the Roman 
 grooves of management under their administra- 
 tions of civil laws and established customs. In 
 thought the American must make Rome America, 
 not himself a Roman. He may convert America 
 into Rome and so become a Roman, if that 
 mean anything, but he is still an American. 
 These attempts to become foreigners too often 
 result in nothing except in adopting the vices 
 that exist in those lands, because they are often 
 more conspicuously observed than are the virtues. 
 This maxim has to answer for many a fall into 
 vice from weak tourists who tempt very tempta- 
 tion itself under the shadow of " doing as the 
 Romans do ; " habits of intemperance are 
 acquired too frequently by Americans in foreign 
 lands under the excuse that " everybody drinks " 
 in the old country. The maxim is used to 
 convert liberty into license. 
 
 I would not forget to fortify the traveler with 
 moral courage against his return home. His 
 pride will tempt him to report a wider travel and 
 a closer observation than he has actually had. 
 To illustrate : In Venice are some winged lions 
 standing here and there upon the facades of the 
 principal buildings, and at other points also, as 
 imposing ornaments ; or as it often is put : " St. 
 
I36 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 
 
 Mark and the lions " — St. Mark being the patron 
 saint of the city, and the lions being emblem- 
 atical of the saint. A lady had traveled, and was 
 again at home ; some one said to her : " And so 
 you went to Venice ? Saw all the sights ; St. 
 Mark and the lions ?" " Oh, yes, the dear old 
 lions ! We were most fortunate the day we were 
 there ; arrived just in time to see the noble 
 creatures fed !" Another trial is this : One 
 meets a friend at home who has never traveled, 
 who asks him : " Did you see the Cathedral at 
 
 . " No, sir, I could not go there." " I 
 
 would rather see that Cathedral than all you saw 
 while you were traveling." This is candid, to 
 say the least. 
 
 Another phase of this ill-breeding is that some 
 one has, upon a time, read a scientific or techni- 
 cal statement made about an extraordinary phe- 
 nomenon that existed, or may still exist, in 
 Europe. He asks : " Did you see thus and thus ?" 
 " No, I did not meet it." " Mr. Profundus speaks 
 of it, at any rate, and I know that it is as he 
 says," turning away with an air of dam- 
 aged hopes and of contempt at the want of obser- 
 vation which the returned man manifests. But 
 still the traveler has his remedy in this case ; he 
 can turn himself into the learner and listen to 
 the extended and critical information of his un- 
 traveled friend Gamaliel ! People so often for- 
 get that Europe is a large country, and that it is 
 literally packed full of matters of profound inter- 
 est to an American, and that two travelers, even 
 though both may be never so intelligent and ob- 
 serving, will seldom meet precisely the same items 
 and phases of matters by the wayside. 
 
 Tourists may safely assume that good sense 
 will always be a valuable article to possess in 
 
SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 1 37 
 
 large quantities. There is a sort of glamour 
 hanging over a foreign country before the eyes 
 of him who has never visited it. This mystic 
 veil distorts the true state of the country which 
 is seen as in a kind of mirage. The truth gradu- 
 ally dawns, upon a personal inspection, and good 
 sense is needed by the tourist to keep him well 
 balanced in his feelings and in his judgments. 
 
TOURS, EXCURSIONS, 
 
 — AND — 
 
 General Traveling Arrangements. 
 
 CHIEF OFFICES: 
 
 COOK, SON & JENKINS, 
 
 261 Broadway, New York. 
 
 THOMAS COOK & SON, 
 
 Ludgate Circus, London. 
 
 Pioneers and Inaugurators of the Principal System of 
 
 TOURS ax&<£ EXCURSIONS 
 
 Now in operation throughout the world. 
 
 In 1872 Messrs. Cook, Son & Jenkins extended their Tourist system to 
 America, and are now enabled, by reason of the facilities given them by a 
 
 Majority of the Leading Railway Companies 
 
 of the country, to issue Tourist and Excursion Tickets to all parts of the 
 American Continent at 
 
 IRJEIDTTCIEIID RATES. 
 
 These Tourist Tickets are issued only to pleasure seekers ; they are 
 bound in small books, each leaf being a coupon for a section of the journey, 
 and are precisely similar to the tickets used by the same firm in Europe for 
 many years past. 
 
 Among the advantages in the use of Cook's Tourist Tickets, besides 
 the reduced rates at which they are sold, is the fact that they can be made 
 into combinations which ordinary tickets cannot. They are good to stop off 
 en route, are good till used, and all unused or unmutilated coupons are re- 
 deemed at the chief office at 10 per cent, below their value. 
 
 Tickets and information can be obtained at the following offices : 
 
 New York, 261 Broadway. 
 
 Boston, 197 Washington Street. 
 
 Philadelphia, 1351 Chestnut Street, corner Broad. 
 
 Washington, 820 F Street, opposite Patent Office. 
 
 Chicago, 77 South Clark Street. 
 
 Toronto, 67 Yonge Street. 
 
 Pittsburgh, 135 Fifth Avenue. 
 
COOK'S TOXTRS 
 
 TO 
 
 White Mountains. 
 
 COOK, SON & JENKINS issue Tourist Tickets in any possible 
 combination, to all the points of interest in the White and Franconia 
 Mountains by every popular route, and to include as short or as ex- 
 tended a tiip as any one may desire. 
 
 Mount Washington, Glen House, Crawford 
 
 House, Profile House and Twin 
 
 Mountain House. 
 
 Tic ets to ascend Mount Washington by rail or coach, or up one way 
 and down another. 
 
 Excursion Tickets to White Mountains 
 
 Via Boston, via Portland, via Lake Winnipiseogee, via Saratoga and 
 Lake George, via New London and Worcester, out one way, return by 
 an opposite route. 
 
 SPECIMEN TOUR No. 1. 
 
 New York to Newport. Fall River, Boston, Old Orchard Beach, Port* 
 land, North Conway, Crawford House, Fabyan House, Twin Mountain 
 House, Bethlehem, Littleton, Plymouth, Weirs (Lake Winnipiseogee), 
 Concord, Nashua, Worcester, New London, New York, or the reverse. 
 
 First Class - $19.^0 
 
 From Philadelphia and back - 23.25 
 
 From Washing on and back - 29.50 
 
 SPECIMEN TOUR No. 2. 
 
 New York, Hudson River steamer to Albany, rail to Saratoga, Lake 
 George, Lake Champlain, Burlington, Montpelier, Wells River, Little- 
 ton, Rethlehem, Twin Mountain House, Fabyan House, Crawford 
 House, North Conway, Portland, Old Orchard Beach, Bcston, New- 
 port, New York, or vice versa. 
 
 From New York or Boston and back - $23.50 
 
 From Philadelphia and back - 27. 50 
 
 From Washington and back - 34.50 
 
 Passengers to White Mountains can make their own Route. 
 
 WE CAN SUPPLY THE TICKETS AT 
 
 New York, 261 Broadway. 
 
 Boston, 197 Washington Street, 
 
 Philadelphia, 1351 Chestnut Street, corner Broad. 
 
 Washington, 820 F Street, opposite Patent Office. 
 
 Chicago, 77 South Clark Street. 
 
 Toronto, 67 Yonge Street. 
 
 Pittsburgh, 135 Fifth Avenue. 
 
COOK'S TOURIST TICKETS 
 
 )TO( 
 
 CALIFORNIA 
 
 Via New York Central R.R , Hudson River, Niagara Falls, Cleve- 
 land, Chicago and Omaha. 
 
 Via Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington City, Cincinnati, St. Louis 
 and Omaha. 
 
 Good to &o M One Way and Mum by an Opposite Way. 
 
 ARRANGED ALSO TO INCLUDE 
 
 Salt Lake City, Yosemite Valley, 
 
 GEYSERS, ETC. 
 
 COOK, SON & JENKINS issue a Round Trip Ticket, and prepare 
 Itineraries of travel for the use of the Traveler. 
 
 COOK, SON & JENKINS issue Tickets from New York, Boston, 
 Philadelphia, Washington, Chicago, or any other principal point, to 
 
 C^LIFORJ^I/1, 
 
 YOSEMITE VALLEY, &c, 
 
 VIA 
 
 Colorado, Denver, lion, k 
 
 Good to visit the wonderful Colorado Country, either going or 
 returning. 
 
 Their offices are the only offices in the United States able to make 
 these combinations. 
 
 Apply at 
 
 261 Broadway, New York. 
 
 197 Washington Street, Boston. 
 
 1351 Chestnut Street, corner Broad, Philadelphia. 
 
 820 F Street, Washington. 
 
 77 South Clark Street, Chicago. 
 
 67 Yonge Street, Toronto. 
 
 135 Fifth Avenue* Pittsburgh. 
 
Cook's Tourist Tickets 
 
 —TO— 
 
 COLORADO. 
 
 Messrs. COOK, SON & JENKINS, by reason of superior 
 facilities offered by the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway 
 Company — the new line through the Arkansas Valley — and by 
 the Kansas Pacific Railway Company, are enabled to issue 
 
 Exciarsion Tickets 
 
 FROM 
 
 New York, Boston and Philadelphia 
 
 TO 
 
 Denver, Pueblo, Manitou, Colorado Spring's, The Garden 
 
 of the Gods, Monument Park, Pike's Peak, La Veta 
 
 Pass, The Great Canon of the Arkansas, 
 
 ♦ and the attractions of the 
 
 ROOKY MOUNTAINS 
 
 AT VERY LOW RATES, 
 
 Issuing the ticket 6ut and back by opposite routes. The follow- 
 ing route is given as a specimen Tour : 
 
 To Colorado, Denver and Return, via Hudson River, 
 
 rail or boat to Albany, rail to Niagara Falls, Chicago, Mexico, 
 Kansas City, Colorado Springs, Denver, and back to Kansas 
 City, St. Louis, Cincinnati, Washington City, Baltimore, 
 Philadelphia and New York. 
 From New York or Philadelphia and back, - - $ 98.00 
 From Boston, out by Albany, back by Fall River, - 103.00 
 
 Upwards of thirty different combinations can be obtained at 
 any of the offices below. 
 
 New York, 261 Broadway, corner Warren Street. 
 
 Boston, 197 Washington Street, corner Court. 
 
 Washington, 820 F Street, opp. Patent Office. 
 
 Chicago, 77 South Clark Street. 
 
 Philadelphia, 1351 Chestnut Street, corner Broad. 
 
 Toronto, 67 Yonge Street. 
 
 Pittsburgh, 135 Fifth Avenue. 
 
 Sleeping Car Berths on New York Central R. R. can be ob- 
 tained at New York and Boston Offices. 
 
OOOIKL'S 
 
 TOURS 
 
 Messrs. COOK, SON & JENKINS are now prepared to issue a 
 direct traveling ticket for a journey Round the World, good to com- 
 mence and end in New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago, or San 
 Francisco, the tickets good to go EAST or WEST. Tickets issued via 
 Japan and China, or via Australia. 
 
 In their printed programmes several examples of such Tours are 
 given, one of which we reproduce here. 
 
 NEW YORK TO NIAGARA, CHICAGO, OMAHA AND SAN FRAN- 
 CISCO, by Railroad. 
 SAN FRANCISCO TO YOKOHAMA, by Pacific Mail Steamer. 
 YOKOHAMA TO SHANGHAI, through Inland Sea of Japan, by Steamer. 
 SHANGHAI TO HONG KONG, by P. & O. Steamer. 
 HONG KONG TO SINGAPORE, PENANG AND CEYLON, by P. & O. 
 
 Steamers. 
 POINT l>E GALLE (CEYLON) TO MADRAS AND CALCUTTA, by P. 
 
 & O. Steamers. 
 CALCUTTA TO BENARES, ALLAHAI5AD, JUBBULPORE AND BOM- 
 
 BAV, by Railway- 
 BOMBAY TO ADEN AND SUEZ, by P. & 0. Steamers. 
 SUEZ TO ALEXANDRIA. Direct, or by Cairo, by Railway. 
 ALEXANDRIA To BRINDIsl, bv P. & O. Sieamer. 
 BR1NDISI TO PARIS, by Railway, via Naples, Rome, Florence and 
 
 Turin. 
 PARIS TO LONDON, bv any Railway, and any Channel Route. 
 LONDON TO LIVERPOOL (OR GLASGOW) bv Railwav. 
 LIVERPOOL (OR GLASGOW) TO NEW YORK, by any Line of 
 Steamers, or vice versa. 
 
 PRICE, $1 I 19.50, COLD. 
 
 PERSONALLY-CONDUCTED TOURS. 
 
 Everv year for five years past, Messrs. Cook, Son & Jenkins have dis- 
 patched one of their most efficient conductors on a journey round the 
 world, in charge of a select partv of ladies and gentlemen. The time 
 consumed in this trip is about six months, the cost, $1,625, gold, which 
 includes first-class travel, hotels, sleeping cars, and necessary expenses 
 for the tour. The next party will leave New York about September 10th. 
 Full particulars can be obtained at 
 
 NEW YORK, 261 Broadway, BOSTON, 197 Washington St. 
 
 CHICAGO, 77 South Clark Street, WASHINGTON, 820 V street, 
 
 TORONTO, 67 Yonge Street, PITTSBURGH, 135 Fifth Ave. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA. 1351 Chestnut St., cor. Broad. 
 
COOK'S 
 
 EXCURSIONIST 
 
 A Monthly Periodical, twice the size of Harp- 
 er's Weekly, is publishedby Cooh, Son §- Jenkins 
 at B61 Broadway, New York, and sent by mail 
 to any address post-paid, for one dollar per 
 annum, or ten cents per copy. 
 
 IT CONTAINS 
 
 Specimen Tours and Routes of Travel in the United States and 
 Canadas, to the number of nearly 2,000. 
 
 Routes and Fares for nearly One Thousand Tours in Europe, 
 Palestine and Egypt. 
 
 Rates of Fare by all Steamship Lines leaving all American 
 Ports, from New York, or other American Ports, TO PARIS 
 AND BACK. 
 
 The names of all the Steamers of every Line leaving for Liv- 
 erpool, Glasgow, London, Havre, Hull, Bremen, Southampton, 
 and Hamburg. 
 
 Particulars of Tours to Cuba, Mexico, The West Indies, Bra- 
 zil, South America, China, Japan, Australia, etc., etc. 
 
 List of Fares from New York to nearly every important city in 
 the world, worked out by all lines of Steamers, both first and 
 second class. 
 
 Routes and Itineraries for Special Personally-Conducted 
 Tours to Switzerland, Italy and Round the World, now formed 
 and to be formed. 
 
 Programmes for Palestine Travel, for Tours on the Nile, for 
 Tours to Scandinavia and the land of the Midnight Sun. It is a 
 journal of travel which contains more information than any simi- 
 lar publication. 
 
 Send for a copy to 
 
 261 Broadway, New York, 
 
 197 Washington Street, Boston, 
 
 1351 Chestnut St., cor. Broad, Philadelphia, 
 
 820 F Street, Washington, 
 
 77 South Clark Street, Chicago, 
 
 67 Yonqe Street, Toronto, 
 
 135 Fifth Avenue, Pittsburgh. 
 
Cook's Tourist Tickets 
 
 FOR EUROPEAN TRAVEL 
 
 Are the only tickets which enable one or more passengers to 
 travel any day, and by any steamer, train or diligence, to all 
 parts of 
 
 Ireland, Germany, Spain, The Levant, 
 
 Scotland, Bavaria, Italy, Palestine, 
 
 England, Austria, Turkey, India, 
 
 Wales, Holland, Egypt, China, 
 
 France, Belgium, Greece, &c, &c. 
 
 Sold, in all cases, at reductions from ordinary rates, and avail- 
 able by any line of steamers from any American port. 
 
 Cook's Hotel Coupons, 
 
 Available at nearly three hundred first-class hotels in various 
 parts of the world, can be had by travelers purchasing Cook's 
 Tourist Tickets, guaranteeing them first-class accommodations at 
 fixed and regular prices. 
 
 Cook, Son & Jenkins' General Traveling Arrangements 
 
 Are so widely extended that they can supply tickets to almost 
 any point that Tourists may wish to visit, in all cases at reduc- 
 tion?, many ranging from twenty-five to forty per cent, below 
 ordinary fares. The regular traveling ticket being issued, in all 
 cases, printed in English on one side, and in the language of the 
 country where it is used on the other, while it contains all the 
 information the traveler needs. 
 
 Those contemplating a Tour need only call on or address 
 Messrs. Cook, Son & Jenkins, at any of their offices, giving the 
 journey they propose, when the price of the tickets will be at 
 once quoted. 
 
 COOK'S EXCURSIONIST 
 
 Is published monthly in New York, London and Brussels, at ten cents 
 per copy, or one dollar for the year, and contains programmes and lists 
 to the number of nearly one thousand specimen Tours, tickets for which 
 are issued by Cook, Son & Jenkins, with fares by every line of Steamers 
 leaving New York. The EXCURSIONIST can be had by mail, post 
 paid, upon application. 
 
 For further particulars or information, apply to any of the following 
 offices : 
 
 New York, 261 Broadway, New Orleans, 35 Carondelet St., 
 
 Boston, 197 Washington St., Chicago, 77 South Clark St., 
 
 Washington, 820 F St., Pittsburgh, 135 Fifth Ave., 
 
 San Francisco, 3 New Montgomery St., Toronto, 67 Yonge St., 
 Philadelphia, 1351 Chestnut St., cor. Broad. 
 
۩@k ? s Hotel Coupons 
 
 REDUCED TO $3.00 PER DAY, 
 
 For the BEST Accommodations at BEST Hotels, 
 
 When Cook, Son & Jenkins introduced their Tourist System 
 to America, they also brought into use their Hotel Coupons, 
 which provide for a full day's accommodation in at least- one first- 
 class hotel in each city of the world. 
 
 The American Hotel Coupon is sold at Three Dollars 
 per day, and is accepted by the best hotels in America. It 
 provides for Bed Room, Breakfast, Dinner and Supper, or an 
 entire day's boarding which can be commenced at any time. 
 LIST OF HOTELS. 
 
 Alexandria Bay— Thousand Island House 
 Atlanta— Kimball House 
 Augusta— Planters' Hotel 
 Baltimore— Eutaw House 
 Boston— St. James 
 Rnmhnv * Adelphi Hotel 
 Bombay- j Watgon . s Esplanade 
 Burlington, Vt.— Van Ness House 
 Buffalo-Invalids' and Tourists' Hotel 
 Cacouua, Que.— St. Lawrence Hall 
 Calcutta- Great Eastern Hotel 
 Canon City, Col.— McClure House 
 Chicago— Sherman House 
 
 Niagara City— Quei 
 
 alls —International 
 
 een's Hotel 
 Niagara Falls —International Hotel, 
 
 (American side) 
 Norfolk— Atlantic Hotel 
 Omaha— Grand Central 
 Ottawa— Russell House 
 Philadelphia— Colonnade Hotel 
 Pittsburg- 
 Plymouth, N. H. 
 
 Point de Galle- Oriental Hotel 
 Portland 
 
 Richmond, Va.- j £Xng^Ballard 
 
 Snlf- T HlrP ri(-v < Walker House 
 Salt Lake City - , Townsend Hou8e 
 
 San Franeisco— Grand Hotel 
 Shanghai- Astor House 
 
 Springfield 
 
 * St. John, N. B. 
 
 Cf T „ . \ Laclede 
 St Louis - /Bircher 
 
 Toronto— Queen's Hotel 
 
 Watkins' Glen- Glen Mountain House 
 
 Washington City-Willard's Hotel 
 
 TT7 1..1. Tin » • ( Twin Mt'n House 
 
 White Mountains- \ Crawford House 
 
 Yokohama— Grand Hotel 
 
 i Leidig's Hotel 
 
 - Murphy * Coulter's 
 
 I Snow's Hotel 
 
 Cincinnati- Gibson House 
 
 Denver— Grand Central 
 
 Detroit— Russell House 
 
 Estes Park, Col.— Estes Park Hotel. 
 
 Fortress Monroe— Hygeia Hotel 
 
 Green Cove Springs -Clarendon Hotel 
 
 Gorham— Alpine House 
 
 Havana, Cuba— San Carlos Hotel 
 
 Hioga— Hioga Hotel 
 
 Hong Kong— Hong Kong Hotel 
 
 Jacksonville— Grand National 
 
 Kansas City— Coates House 
 
 Mnnitnn r „i _ j Manitou House 
 Manitou, Col.- j CHft Houge 
 
 Merced— El Capitan 
 Montreal— Ottawa House 
 *Mountain Lake House— Giles Co. Va 
 
 Nagasaki— Occidental Hotel j Yosemite Valley- 
 Newport, Vt 
 
 New York— Grand Central Hotel 
 
 * An allowance of 50 cents per day will be made to holders of Coupons here. 
 
 These Coupons are only sold to travelers holding Cook's 
 Tourist Tickets. Holders of Coupons are not required 
 to give notice that they hold the Coupons, are not known from 
 other guests, and use the Coupons same as money. All unused 
 Coupons are redeemed at ten per cent, discount. 
 
 Sold at all of Cook's Tourist Offices. 
 New York, i£61 Broadway. 
 
 Boston, 197 Washington Street. 
 
 Philadelphia, 1351 Chestnut St., cor. Broad. 
 Washington, 820 F Street. 
 
 Chicago, 77 South Clark Street. 
 Toronto, 67 Yonee Street. 
 
 Pittsburgh, 135 Fifth Avenue.