H-^ ^ff ^^^'^^^ urfevjO^ teijj^ ^^^ j^ite3ui' ^^SKi IS:^^B^^SL!^ rVife"'' l^^f^ &TiS ^Sp: ^^^ '3ljl^ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. d^Hp. ©ijpiirij]^ !f 0* UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 'ci''^ p 'iiHliS ^c9^ W^!^ i^\^ sm^v iWt a- "^tti^® Ik' A iibff ^^^ TBJbi S^.K^^^g mlm^ Jfflf ^ ^^^T m 'i^M ^^^S ^^# Ww^ H ^^ m H mSk ^B ABOARD AND ABROAD VACATION NOTES, IN TEN LETTERS ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED IN THE LOWELL DAILY CO CRIER 2^ A^ 2- t>7 BY BENJ. WALKER PRINTED FOR PRIVATE DISTRIBUTION LOWELL, MASS. COURIER press: MARDEN & ROWELL 1889 THB LIBRARY or CONGRESS WASHIHGTON ■I ■ "ns THE TOURISTS. Hon. SAMUEL P. HADLEY, Judge of Police Court, Lowell. Rev. ransom A. GREENE, Pastor of Shattuck Street Universalist Church, Lowell. Z. E. STONE, Esq. Editor of The Morning Mail, Lowell. BENJ. WALKER, Correspondent. INTRODUCTION. The following letters were originally written for the Lowell Daily Courier. They were intended only to afford a moment- ary gratification to the readers of that paper who might be inter- ested in the little party of tourists whose adventures they relate. The letters have been so kindly received, and copies of the same so often requested, that they have been reproduced in the present form for j)rivate distribution. For their reproduction, special thanks are due to Messrs. Marden & Rowell, who have, with characteristic kindness and liberality, afforded every facility for this purpose. With the primary idea of brevity as essential to letters intended for newspaper reading, much has been omitted from the descrip- tions of places visited that could easily have been added. It has not been thought advisable to change the plan of these letters in this regard. The present opportunity, however, admits of saying a word with reference to the business and social charac- teristics of the English people. So far as my observation extends, English merchants and busi- ness men are uniformly kind and courteous. Their manners and methods, like the country and its buildings, are solid and substan- tial, and while evincing less of that "cuteness" which is attrib- uted to Americans in general, and to Yankees in particular, there is an element of honesty, sincerity, and conservatism which at once commands, not only respect, but the highest admiration. England, as I saw^ it, assumes towards America the position of parent to child. Everywhere the feeling manifested was one of 6 INTB OD UGTION. parental regard — that of the parent for the child greatly exceed- ing, perhaps, that of the child for the parent. On general princi- ples this regard on the part of the older nation may seem politic, when the resources and power of the United States Grovernment are considered ; but, nevertheless, in my humble judgment, the feeling emanates from a far deeper and much more enlightened source. Of course, the English are " free-traders," or would be if they could, so far as the United States are concerned, but that is not a matter to be discussed in these pages. The one thing wanted between the two countries is a better and more intimate personal acquaintance, out of which natural and mutual afRnities will be sure to develop. The "customs of the countrj^-," so far as they relate to travel- ing are very different from those in America, and are often irritating and annoying. The almost universal system of " tips " is exasperating to the last degree, leaving, as it does, the impres- sion that porters and waiters are to be classed about on a par with the endless number of beggars who are everywhere present. With all England's wealth — and the same may be said of France, Belgium, and Holland, the only other countries visited — there also exists an element of squalor and poverty, almost indescrib- able. The rich are very rich ; the poor terribly so. To numerous inquiries relative to the expense of making a two- months' European trip, the answer is, in general terms. Whatever one chooses to make it. With a due regard, however, to economy, my advice to the tourist of limited means would be, first to majD out the route to be taken and purchase transportation tickets of Thomas Cook & Sons, whom I cannot too highly recommend in this initial expenditure. This course will save the annoyance of dealing at foreign " booking stations," in a foreign currency, and insure a prompt and ready transit wherever the tickets desig- nate; but I do not favor the "hotel coupons" issued by the same firm, for, although I did not use them, I was often asked bj'- the keepers of public houses if I expected to offer coupons in payment of my bills ; the inference plainly being that, although the coupon INTBODUCTIOX. 7 would be honored, they were likely to be much less acceptable and " telling" than the hard cash. I would also suggest the patronage, in large cities, when a stay of several days is intended, of what are known as "private hotels," where lodging and breakfasts are obtained, and where, for a moderate price, good accommodations may readily be secured. Other meals can be had at restaurants of every grade and variety, and the living thus made to correspond with the desires of the tourist. It is also easy, when one knows how, to reach almost any section of London and Paris, as also other large cities, by omnibus and tramway (horse car) lines, for a penny or two, although a somewhat extended trip in a hansom, with either one or two persons, may be made for a shilling — twenty-four cents. There are various other ways of exercising a little economy, altogether " too numerous to mention," which Avill present them- selves. A trip such as is described in the following pages, involv- ing nearly nine thousand miles of travel, may be made, very comfortably, at a cost not exceeding three hundred and fifty dol- lars, including transportation (first class by sea, second class by land), board, tips, and every other necessary and incidental expense. With ladies in the part}^, a little extra margin would probably be required. In closing, the writer takes occasion to acknowledge his obliga- tions to Mr. Leonard O. Johnson, 12 and 13 Eed Lion Court, Fleet Street, London, E. C, for many courtesies. Mr. Johnson is an intelligent and afiable young English gentleman, representing the highest type of those commercial classes to whose integ- rity, sagacity, and enterprise England owes its prosperity and influence. B. W. ABOARD AND ABROAD LETTER I. THE TOURING QUARTETTE. A Walker as a Traveler — Scenes on Board the Umbria — An Unusual Voyage. On Board the Umbria, | May 16, 1889. j THE writer left Lowell on the morning of the 10th of May. The sun never shone more beautifully, the natural scenery of the outskirts of the city never seemed more lovely, and the blossoming trees, in all their magnifi- cence, never emitted a more charming fragrance than on this very propitious commencement of a trip to foreign lands. All through the states of Massachusetts and Con- necticut the aspects of nature were presented in their most beautiful forms, and the question would constantly arise, in spite of myself, whether anything in the old world could possibly surpass these familiar scenes. This, however, now remains to be seen. On the morning of the 11th, Judge Hadley, Rev. R. A. 10 ABOARD AND ABROAD. Greene, Z. E. Stone, Esq., and the writer met on that magnifi- cent Cunard steamship, the Umbria, and, having regularly installed ourselves, all and singular, not into the mysteries of the free and accepted order of Ancient Masonr}^ but rather into that delightful order of good fellowship neces- sary to the preservation of harmony, proceeded to constitute ourselves a party with one mind and one purpose in the travels and explorations about to be made. It is easy to see that we are a congenial combination. We represent the majesty of the law, we are graced with the embodiment of the Christian virtues, we are editorially armed with a coat of "(Morning) Mail," and, finally, there is a humble repre- sentative of proprietary medicines which relieve the world from all those evils to which flesh is " Ayer." With such a company as that with which the writer is favored, who would not explore the mysteries of the old world, visit the catacombs, climb the pyramids, or dive into the bowels of the earth? The Umbria is one of the most magnificent of the com- pany's Atlantic fleet. It is of eight thousand tons burden, five hundred and twenty feet in length, and fitted in every conceivable way with the finest and best accommodations that art and skill have yet devised. It is divided into six water-tight compartments, so that, in case of collision or other misfortune, the damage would only extend to a single division, leaving all others intact, and the ship absolutely safe from foundering. At an early hour on the 11th passengers began to come on board. Bouquets, sent in compliment to those about to depart, literally filled the music room, representing hun- THE TOUBING QUABTETTE. H dreds of dollars in value, many being elegant designs of most exquisite exotics. Not less than fifteen hundred peo- ple must have assembled on the Umbria to wish " bon voyage " to five hundred and more departing travelers. The bright witticism and jolly repartee could often be heard, yet, amid all this gayety, tears- innumerable were shed, and hearts almost bursting with grief at the separations then and there taking place were enough to gain the sympathy of the most indifferent stranger. One of the gay features of the departure of the Umbria was the presence of Mr. J. J. O'Donohue, evidently one of New York's famous Tammany magnates. So great was the desire to " fall down and do him reverence" that a large steamer was chartered, which, crowded with passengers, accompanied the Umbria to Sandy Hook, where a parting salute was given, Mr. O'Doriohue vigorously waving the American flag. Here also our pilot was dropped, and we were left to span the mighty waters of the broad Atlantic ocean. Old Neptune has thus far been most wonderfully gracious, not only to the Umbria herself, but to all on board. This great ship goes steadily and smoothly on her way, creating not much more of that undu- lating motion than would be observed on a Sound steamer, and the passengers generally are ready to respond to the call of the gong. I need not add that the meals are served after the manner of a first-class hotel, and when I inform you that the five long tables which the dining-room contains are completely filled, and that many of the more magnificent flowers continue to be tastefully arranged, to give pomp and circumstance to the scene, it will be easy to imagine the beauty and splendor which still x)revails, although we are now so far out at sea. 12 ABOABD AND ABBOAD. During the first evening, which was a clear and beautiful moonlight night, every passenger appeared to be on the alert to " take in" all that pertains to a first night at sea. Now and then a sail was to be seen, a steamer occasionally stood off from us, leaving a trail of smoke to mark its retiring course, and later we were left to observe only the moon and stars, and the never-ending expanse of water in every direction. Sunday morning dawned clearly, our noble ship still speeding on its way, but with not much more motion than on the day before, although more or less indications of " retchedness " began to appear. A very proper observance of the day was shown in the reading of the church service at ten o'clock by Captain McMickan, who performed the same with much dignity and fervor. In this service the prayer for Queen Victoria was coupled with one for the Pres- ident of the United States — certainly as thoughtful and delicate an act of courtesy as could well be imagined, con- sidering the varied nationality of the participants. The service was attended both by sailors and passengers, and the readiness and heartiness of the responsive portions must have been exceedingly gratifying to every churchman present. On retiring from the saloon the wonders of the sea again engaged' the attention of all, and now, after two days out, the passengers of the Umbria appear to be fast settling down to the idea that the true inwardness of a sea voyage is rest. Under present conditions, nothing could be more grateful to one wearied with the cares and perplexities of anything like professional life, and nothing could be more invigorating, in view of the future days of activity THE TOUBim QUARTETTE. 15 and hope of usefulness which naturally inspire every well- balanced mind. We are at this writing on our fourth day out. The weather is still all that can be desired, and the sea remains as placid and beautiful as when we left Sandy Hook. It seems almost wonderful that we should escape so long the anticipated terror of our sea voyage, but the mal de mer has not yet manifested itself to any considerable extent. The fact that we have been traveling nearly two thousand miles in a direct course, with another thousand miles yet to be spanned before reaching Queenstown, affords some idea of the immensity of the Atlantic ocean. It may be imagined, if not realized ; yet the sense of security in our great vessel seems almost unlimited. Passengers are promenading the decks, chatting, reading, smoking, and indulging in various amusements, even to "horse billiards," children are playing, eating is an especially prominent exercise, and we are, in short, a happy family. The service of the Umbria is unexcelled and unexception- able. Politeness and attention on the part of the stewards are strikingly manifest, and everything is done to pro- mote comfort and happiness. Even the crew of the vessel are subjects of most favorable comment, but the most "pop-ular" of all is the cork-screw, which finds devotees innumerable, especially at the five and six o'clock dinners. The bracing sea air sharpens our appetites, our party are proverbially hungry, as well as thirsty, and although, as has been seriously remarked, Benjamin's mess is twice as great as that of any of his brethren, he continues to be an object of the greatest commiseration, for fear he will starve before 14 ABOABD AND ABBOAD. reaching Queenstown. How much envy all this produces will doubtless be apparent in due time to the readers of the Morning Mail, who have here a most glorious representa- tive in wielding the pen as well as the knife and fork, and who discusses " chops and tomato sauce" in such a way as would have put even Pickwick himself to the blush. This Stone-y-hearted individual sends cable ( ?) messages to state-room 107, giving the latest Lowell news, not the least exciting being an account of a great fire at the corner of Middlesex and Kirk ( ?) streets, and the running away of Judge Hadley's horse, the animal having received a severe fright from the music of the Salvation Army. It is to be hoped that Judge Pickman will " mete out" to the Salva- tionists that measure of justice which the gravity of the case demands, and that this fine Arabian steed may speedily be restored to its usual rapid gait. Among the more noted passengers on board is Mr. Charles H. Dalton, recent treasurer of the Merrimack Manufacturing Company, who, with his wife, is on the way to Europe for a year of rest and recreation. Mr. Dalton is a native of Chelmsford, Mass., but early became a resident of Lowell. He received his education in the public schools of our city, is a very agreeable and intelligent gentleman, fully alive to all that pertains to Lowell's future growth and the continued development of its already great manufacturing interests. This (Thursday) morning, our sixth da}^ out, the sky is overcast and a light rain prevails, but the sea maintains its accustomed smoothness. Yesterday we saw in the distance a large ship, which Vv^as spoken, and one steamer. The even- ing previous we passed a couple of whales, sporting and THE TOURING QUARTETTE. 15 spouting, after the manner so graphically illustrated in the picture books of my early days. The reality, however, was not quite so imposing and awe-inspiring as my youthful imagination had led me to expect. I presume that within the next thirty-six hours we shall approach the coast of Ireland, a description of which, as well as the remaining portion of my voyage, will be reserved for a future letter. LETTER II. AT LIVERPOOL The Local Quartette on Terra Firma — Impressions of Liverpool — Sunday Scenes — On to London VIA the Midland Eailway. London, May 22, L THE monotony of the voyage on the Umbria was broken on Friday evening. May 17, through a concert adver- tised during the day to be given in aid of the Seaman's Orphanage at Liverpool, of which Captain McMickan is one of the vice presidents. The performers proved to be mem- bers of the Albani Opera Company, Miss Jennie Kempton, and a few others who volunteered their services. The enter- tainment was given in the dining saloon, which was crowded to its utmost capacity, and the selections, although of a miscellaneous character, were of the highest order of excel- lence. The programme consisted of operatic selections, English and Italian songs, both sentimental and humorous, readings, flute and piano solos, the whole being under the musical direction of Signor Bevignani, one of the finest pianists and most accomplished accompanists it has ever been my good fortune to hear. The affair was presided over AT LIVEBPOOL. 17 by Gen. James Grant "Wilson, of considerable military renown during the late war, who very happily introduced the several performers. During the performance a collection of more than $250 was taken, some portion of which, it was stated, would be devoted for the benefit of a similar orphan- age institution at Staten Island, New York. The entire voyage of the Umbria was remarkable for pleasant weather and a smooth sea, and the passage from Sandy Hook to Queenstown (the points between which ''running time" is reckoned) was made in six days, six hours, forty-nine minutes. The best run in any one day was four hundred fifty-three miles. Between Queenstown and Liverpool a run of ninety miles was made in four hours, ten minutes. A fog, however, prevailed as the steamship entered St. George's Channel, and our progress was thereby considerably retarded. The music of the fog-horn resounded fearfully for two or three hours, during which the tide went out. When some twelve miles from Liverpool the Umbria was met by two of the Cunard Company's steam tenders, and the seven hundred mail bags were " dumped" into one, while almost as many passengers were transferred into the other. In this way a rather inglorious entrance into Liverpool was made, about seven o'clock in the evening. However, everyone was loud in praise of the Umbria and its officers, and this little episode in no way detracted from the general pleasure and interest of the voyage. Our part}^, we found, was looked upon as containing three clergymen and a layman, the latter being the only "reverend" gentleman among us. The arrival at Liverpool was one of some little excite- 18 ABOARD AND ABBOAD. ment, although not of much confusion. The custom-house officers let us off easily upon our asseverations that we were not undertaking to smuggle rum, tobacco, or silver plate into Her Majesty's dominions, and we at once proceeded to the Grand Hotel, where we were located for the night. Here, at dinner, as if our reputation acquired on the steamship were still pursuing us, the waiter rather insisted that the best thing he could give us, at rather an unseasonable hour, was fried soles, and, at the risk of being ''sold," we accepted the same, and found great physical, if not spirit- ual, sustenance as the result of his recommendation. At nearly nine o'clock in the evening we walked through some of the principal streets, which were crowded with people. By this I wish to convey the idea that not only the side- walks but the streets themselves were literally crowded with human beings. Street musicians and venders of all sorts of things, from shoe-strings upwards, were plying their avoca- tions, old women were begging, children were importuning the passers-by to purchase matches, and, in fact, there seemed to be no end of bustle and excitement, yet all was comparatively quiet and orderly. In the streets we traversed there were drinking-saloons without number, all apparently overflowing with customers, and at every point "Walker's ale" seemed to be the one universal thing to be desired. In the midst of all this we noticed one single sign only for gospel teachings and spiritual refreshment, and here, truth compels me to say, the passage-way was entirely vacant. A hurried walk through the markets of Liverpool this Satui'day night afforded a remarkable sight. These mar- AT LIVEBPOOL. 19 kets, located in long buildings, with various avenues, so to speak, are largely carried on, especially the fish markets, by women, and were crowded almost to suffocation. Baskets innumerable were being filled, and it seemed as if nothing could be imagined that could not be found in these places. Yet here, in all this bustle and turmoil, a spirit of quiet pre- vailed, as if beneath all there was a universal respect and consideration for those inalienable rights which lend to life its greatest charm as well as security. The streets of Liverpool present a modern appearance, the buildings are solid and substantial, and the statuary and monuments fine and imposing. Indeed, even in a very superficial view, such as we were able to gain, of this first English city, one cannot fail to be impressed with this ele- ment of taste and culture, which, it is presumed, will be found everywhere to prevail. Here, as will be the case, doubtless, everywhere in England, statues of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert are objects of prominent interest, and at once indicate the loyalty of British subjects to the crowned heads of this great and powerful nation. The stillness of Sunday morning was first broken by chimes of bells, exceedingly pleasant and grateful in their sweetness and solemnity, doubtless calls to early services in many of the churches. The ringing of the chimes was followed not long after by the music of a military band of much excellence, and, stepping out after breakfast, we found a large company of soldiers, known as the "vol- unteer militia," going through various evolutions in the square in front of St. George's Hall. The men were to attend service in one of the Catholic churches near by. 20 ABOARD AND ABROAD. After the drill was over they niarched away at a very lively step, and then an equipage, with four-in-hand and liveried driver and tip-staffs, together with a dozen or more guards, was drawn up in front of the Great Northwestern Hotel to take two or three judges to church. These worthies appeared in due course, off they went, and the crowd dis- persed. It was a very simple thing to do, but was made the occasion of a pompous bit of ceremony which looked to my American eyes the very quintessence of nonsense. Judge Hadley remarked that should he or any Massachu- setts judge attempt anything of that sort it would be only for a single occasion in the year, as it would swallow up the salary for that length of time. At 11.35 a. m., instead of going to church, we took a train of the Midland Railway for London, a distance of about two hundred miles, and a most magnificent trip it proved to be. The country is all exceedingly fertile and highly cultivated, presenting the appearance of one contin- uous lawn. It is dotted with fruit and shade trees, the verdure is of a deep green, and the different estates or ownerships are, so far as I can judge, divided mainly by hedges, although in some portions were stone walls, all built, however, with almost a mathematical precision and regularity, as if everything was made subservient to taste and artistic skill. A portion of the way was quite moun- tainous and exceedingly picturesque, being through that part of England known as the "Peak of Derbyshire," and cov- ering the scene so graphically described by Sir Walter Scott in his "Peveril of the Peak." On these hills, stretching far away in the distance, the perfection of cultivation was AT LIVEBFOOL. 21 everywhere to be seen. Herds of cattle and flocks of sheep were also prominent features of interest, and, as it was Sunday, the work-horses of these farms were appar- ently all out and enjoying a day of rest. In fact, with the exception of our railroad train, everything and everybody seemed in repose, and as we darted through the innumera- ble towns and villages there was manifestly a universal observance of the Sabbath. In many places could be seen large congregations going to and coming from church, and in this respect the scene was interesting and impressive. The English cars, as it is presumed every one knows, are divided into compartments, each holding, say, eight passen- gers, who enter at side doors, where they are locked in, the tickets being examined and taken up at stations, and not while the trains are in motion, as in our own country. This arrangement is similar, I believe, to that of the Boston and Lowell Railroad when it was opened in 1836. Ameri- can ingenuity has, however, discovered a way to accommo- date passengers and utilize time in this respect, and to afford various other conveniences and comforts to travelers ; improvements which Englishmen will probably not introduce for the next century, if ever, so great is their apparent repugnance to any change in the methods originally adopted by them. In the underground railroads, however, with stops* every two or three minutes, this system is not so objectionable, as by it passengers are discharged and received with surprising celerity. The conductors on these lines have nothing to do with tickets, these being purchased before entering the stations and delivered at the exit, or, as the signs invariably read, " way out." Although the trains 22 ABOABD AND ABEOAD. of the Midland Railway make, for the reason already given, occasional and what seemed unnecessarily long stops, they run with great speed. On some of the down grades the speed was simply terrific. The cars, however, remained on the track, and we arrived safely soon after five o'clock p. m. On approaching the city we found ourselves, when several miles away, suddenly surrounded by buildings of large and even imposing dimensions, many evidently being public institutions of various kinds. Finally we dashed into a tun- nel, at the end of which we landed in the great station of the Midland Railway, whence we emerged into the crowded thoroughfares of one of the greatest of all the great cities in the world, London. For the benefit of my untraveled readers, I may here state that the English system of railroading differs somewhat from ours. So far as observed, no bell is attached to any locomotive. The signal for a train to start is given by the guard (conductor) by means, apparently, of a little tin whistle, which is answered by a shriek — short and sharp — from the engine. There are no grade crossings in all England. Railroad crossings, so far as both railroads and carriage-ways are concerned, are invariably built over or under each other, rendering accidents, so frequent in America for want of this precaution, impossible. There are also, except at terminal points, two booking or ticket offices at every station, one on each side of the track, and crossings are invariably made by means of a substantially-covered foot-bridge, built over the track. No person is allowed to cross a railroad track, at a station, except as above, and, in fact, no one could do AT LIVEBPOOL. 23 it with any degree of ease, the platforms being so elevated as almost entirely to prevent such a thing. In France, on the contrary, grade crossings are frequent, but in that country the highways are closed, with substantial gates on either side of the track, during the passing of trains, the approach of each train being invariably announced by the vigorous blowing of a trumpet or horn. This is done, if I may judge from what I saw, mainly by women, who, while the train goes by, stand with military precision, hold- ing the aforesaid musical instrument (?) over one arm, as if emblematic of a duty well performed, and as an assurance that the " coast is clear." LETTER III. FIUST DAYS IN LONDON. Sight-Seeing by the Lowell Tourists — Interesting Places Visited — A Marked Courtesy — Hampton and Kew. London, May 24, 1889. ONE great ambition and dream of my life has been to visit London, to see for myself that famous English city, to gaze upon its almost endless features of historical inter- est, to tread the same ground with those who have in the past wielded the destinies of the mother country, to look upon the palaces of its living, the graves of its dead, and to convert into a reality what must ever otherwise have remained for me in a sort of mental obscurity. That dream and ambition have now been realized, and London looms up before me. Of its magnitude no one, until it is actually seen, can have any conception, and for an utter stranger to attempt to give an adequate idea of it would, of course, be absurd. After arriving in the city our party at once proceeded to the Sainsbury House, a "private hotel," located at 15 Nor- FIB ST DAYS IN LONDON. 25 folk Street, Strand, where lodgings and breakfasts are fur- nished at reasonable rates. There are several such hotels in the immediate vicinity, and all, doubtless, are kept on the same general plan. The location is central, if any one place in London can be called central. It is, of course, near the Strand, and also near to the Underground Railway, to several of the many lines of omnibuses, and to the lines of local steamers plying on the Thames, so that the facilities for reaching almost any point are unsurpassed. The first thing we did on the morning after our arrival was to take seats on the top of an omnibus, which amount — that is, after you "mount" the omnibus — to an observation car, where for a penny (two cents) you can ride almost to your heart's content. A ride of this sort gives one such a " bird's-eye view" of the city as can be obtained from no other available vehicle. Our first landing was at what is known as " The Monument." This is located on Fish-street Hill, and consists of a fluted column, two hundred and two feet in height, designed by Wren, and erected in 1671-77, in commemoration of the great fire of London. The fire took place in 1666, destroying the houses and churches of four hundred and sixty streets. To enter the monument there is a small admission fee of 3d. (six cents), and a winding staircase of three hundred and forty-five steps must be mounted to gain the top. From this an admirable view is obtained of London bridge, which, it is estimated, is daily crossed by no less than fifteen thousand vehicles and one hundred thousand pedestrians. From the monument we wended our way to Trafalgar Square, which is said to be one of the finest open places in 26 ABOABD AND ABBOAD. London. It is dedicated to Lord Nelson, in commemoration of his death at the battle of Trafalgar in 1805. In this square is a massive granite column of the Corinthian style of architecture, one hundred and forty-five feet in height, crowned with a statue of Nelson. From here we went to Westminster Abbey, where several hours were occupied in a most profoundly interesting way. The various tran- septs of this magnificent structure are literally filled with monuments, almost innumerable, of the most elaborate, costly, and beautiful designs of workmanship and finish, and beneath its marble floor are buried many distinguished per- sons, dear to every American heart. Of all that I saw none more deeply impressed me than the monument to Han- del and the grave of Charles Dickens, the latter designated by a simple and modest slab, over which thousands of people must daily pass. A bust of this distinguished writer stands near by. During the time we were at the Abbey the evening service of the English church was performed, with a full (boy) choir and organ. Hundreds of people attended. In the evening we visited Madam Tussaud's wax-work exhibition, which, as everybody knows, contains a great and interesting collection of wax figures of ancient and modern notabilities. All, if not accurate likenesses, look exceed- ingly life-like, and at times it seems almost impossible to distinguish between wax and flesh and blood. One of our party, as we passed the Queen Victoria group, complimented Her Majesty's waxship by saying that it presented quite a striking likeness of Mrs. W . It was, certainly, a much more correct portrait than the representations found of Presidents Lincoln, Grant, Garfield, and Johnson, which FIBST DAYS IN LONDON. 27 were little better than caricatures — bearing but slight resem- blance to these illustrious individuals. President Benjamin Harrison is already assigned a corner in this remarkable exhibition, but he is made to look much more youthful than the photographs and paintings of him which I have seen. The next morning we devoted a few hours to the National Gallery. This is in a building in the Grecian style of archi- tecture, located near Trafalgar Square, and completed in 1838 at a cost of nearly half a million dollars. It con- tains eighteen rooms, all of which are filled with the most magnificent works of art that can be imagined, including the originals of paintings almost innumerable from all the various " schools," so called, in the world, great numbers of which were strikingly familiar, through steel engravings and other copies so often seen in the States. From here we rode to the vicinity of Buckingham palace, taking an out- side view of royalty, and on the way stopped to listen to three military bands — the Grenadiers, the Cold Stream Guards, and the Scotch Fusileers — rehearsing in antici- pation of their duties on the Queen's birthday, which takes place on the 24th inst. We then proceeded to walk through St. James's and Green parks. In the latter place we took a seat on one of the settees in the avenue, where we were soon after passed by a distinguished looking couple, imme- diately after which the gentleman turned back and accosted us with the remark, " You gentlemen are from America, are you not ? " Upon the confession that we were Americans, our inquisitor entered into a lively and general conversation in regard to London, its attractions, etc., etc., and as we walked on he asked if we would like to visit the House of 28 ABOABD AND ABROAD, Commons. Upon the assurance that we would be pleased to do so, and our handing him our cards, he very politely offered to send us tickets of admission for Friday, and upon retiring gave the name of Mr. George Trevelyan. This gentleman proved to be the Right Honorable George 0. Trev- elyan, the son of Lady Trevelyan, sister of Lord Macau- lay, and, therefore, nephew to the great historian. Mr. Trevelyan is the author of " Macaulay's Life and Letters," and was for some time secretary for Ireland. The promised tickets of admission were duly received and gratefully acknowledged. The polite and delicate attention of this gentleman made a deep impression upon us, and it will be one of the most delightful reminiscences of our visit to London. A day later we visited Kew Gardens, one of the most charming spots that can be imagined. The gardens are said to contain every known tree and plant in the world. Of course, they contain numerous hot-houses, filled with ferns, orchids, and cacti, and here, in the beautiful groves, we heard, for the first time, the pensive song of the cuckoo. It would be pleasant to enlarge upon these gardens did space permit. Hampton Court was the next scene of interest. This palace, which is the finest specimen of royal dwellings I ever expect to behold, was originally built by Cardinal Woolsey, and afterwards presented by him to Henry VIII. We saw in this palace seventeen rooms, including the guest chamber, the presence chamber, the audience chamber, the bed chamber, the dressing chamber, the dining room, etc., etc. These are all filled with the most magnificent pictures, FIBST DAYS m LONDON. 29 the most elaborate frescoing, and all that sort of thing, yet the effect produced was almost that of depression ; to think that a human being, without any will or merit of his own, may live in such regal magnificence, and that the great mass of people, no matter how poverty-stricken, must support such gigantic extravagance ! Hampton Court is sixteen miles away from London. The Inns of Court were also visited, and half a dozen or more courts, of various grades, were found to be in session. The judges and barristers all wear wigs and gowns, and everywhere use quill pens, showing how strong is the adher- ence to ancient customs, and how necessary it is to continue the supply of "geese" to meet the demand for the afore- said quills. Among the courts entered we visited the ses- sions and heard something of the Parnell investigation. Mr. William O'Brien was on the stand and was being cross- examined by the government. We have also visited the Bunhill Fields Cemetery, and stood beside the graves of John Bunyan, Daniel Defoe, and Dr. Isaac Watts ; we have seen the First Wesleyan Chapel and the grave of its founder. Rev. John Wesley ; we have been to the grave of John Milton, the poet, at St. Giles's, Cripplegate, and to several other churches, including St. Paul's Cathedral, where we attended an afternoon service, talked with each other from opposite points in the whisper- ing gallery, and visited the crypt, wherein is the sarcopha- gus of the Duke of Wellington, and also that of Lord Nelson. Much more ought to be said of this most interest- ing and sacred spot, but I forbear. LETTER IV. ROUND ABOUT LONDON. Our Quartette Busy Sight-Seeing — The Restaurants — Queen Victoria's Birthday — Active Church- goers — Listening to Spurgeon and Farrar — Down the Thames to Greenwich. London, May 28, 1889. OUR first visit ttiis morning was to the Church of All Hal- lows, Barking. In the graveyard connected therewith Archbishop Laud was buried, after his execution on Tower Hill in 1643, but his body was afterwards removed to the Chapel of St. John's College, Oxford. Thence we went to the Church of St. Olave, interesting as having been saved from the great London fire, and as the church once frequented by vSamuel Pepys. In it is a large three-manual organ built, it is said, more than one hundred years ago. A look at the worn key-boards of the instrument gave ample evidence of the truth of the statement. The next object of interest was The Tower, or ancient state prison of London, said to be, historically, the most interesting spot in England. Even now it is gloomy and repulsive in appearance, and ROUND ABOUT LONDON. 31 everything in and about it is suggestive of "war, blood, and carnage." The various divisions of the Tower are full of armories, including old swords, guns, cannon, coats of mail almost innumerable, and every sort of equipment sug- gestive of all that is horrible and torturing. The original block on which Lord Lovat and many others were beheaded is preserved in Queen Elizabeth's Armory. Lord Lovat was the last person beheaded on Tower Hill, and the last person beheaded in England. The crown jewels are now in the Wakefield Tower, so called, and represent, I am told, a pecuniary value of fifteen millions of dollars, which it is easy to conceive may be the fact. I was more than glad to leave this place. From here, as previously intimated, we went to the House of Commons, where we were politely provided with front seats in the '' Members' Gallery." Shortly after our appearance we received a call from Mr. Trevelyan. We listened to a three hours' exhaustive debate on the subject of free schools in Scotland. During the afternoon Glad- stone, that "grand old man," came in and remained for half an hour, but took no part in this interesting debate. By way of a little digression I will here write a word about London restaurants, which we often visit. The food is fairly good, and we find about the usual varieties of other cities, but the proprietors have a very remarkable way of charging for every little thing separately, to swell their bills, including a small sum for attendance, and then every waiter expects, and, in fact, demands, a "tip" extra, so that you are expected to pay for about everything except breathing, on which there appears to have been no way yet discovered 32 ABOARD AND ABBOAD. of levying a tax. The water is horrible and unsafe to drink, and when, for personal reasons, wine, beer, and all other kindred beverages are " ruled out," the probability of choking to death seems imminent. The fact is, the great mistake our party made in leaving Lowell was in not arrang- ing to have four carboys of my favorite brand of Thisselsia Spring water sent over by every Saturday's steamer. This old-fashioned and ancient way of doing things is continued, and probably always will be, because it is "English, you know ;" and in further illustration of this we observed that members of the House of Commons sat through the entire session with their hats on, as if even this old and barbarous tradition must forever be preserved. Although the Queen's birthday comes on the 24th of May (this is her seventieth) the event is never officially cele- brated until the Saturday following, which is then made a full, instead of a partial, holiday. If one may judge from the hundreds of thousands of people seen on the occasion of the " trooping of the colors," the event must be regarded as one of very special significance. The first demonstra- tion seen was by special ticket, through the kindness and influence of a friend, where we obtained an admirable posi- tion from an elevated stand, and a perfect sight of the review of a great body of soldiers in St. James's Park ; the bands and drum corps of the brigade being stationed near the centre of the grounds and playing most exquisitely while all this was going on. An occasional strain of " God Save the Queen" immediately caused every head to be uncovered. There were present and seen at the review the Prince of Wales, commander-in-chief, who appeared in full BOUND ABOUT LONDON. 33 uniform on horseback, the Duke of Cambridge, Sir Garnet Wolseley, and numerous other notable officers of the staff. Near the close of the ceremony the Princess of Wales, one young princess, Prince George, son of the Prince of Wales, and other scions of royalty appeared in carriages and were duly honored. Hyde Park was next visited and is one of the most fre- quented and lively places in London. Here was a very great parade of volunteer militia. Here also was an ex- hibition of one of the magnificent coaching clubs of London, known as the Four-in-hand Club. Twenty-two of these turnouts passed a given point, in rapid succession, and afforded an unusually fine opportunity to view these elegant equipages. Private carriages, equestrians and equestri- ennes, without number, with horses beautiful almost beyond compare, completed this unique and most interesting spectacle . Near this point is the Albert Memorial, erected to the memory of the late Prince Consort Albert. This monument is embellished with a profusion of bronze and marble statues, and its base is adorned with one hundred and sixty-nine figures, in marble, representing artists, poets, and musicians, of every period. At the corners of the steps leading to the base are four pedestals bearing allegorical figures, rep- resenting the four quarters of the globe. This monument is one hundred andt seventy-five feet in height and is the most magnificent of any yet seen. On our. return we dropped into the St. Clement Danes Church, and took a seat, for a moment, in the pew once occupied by Dr. Samuel Johnson, in which are a modest 34 ABO ABB AND ABROAD. tablet to his memory and the box, or rather the drawer, in which he kept his church books. Then we went to Temple Church, which was not open, and here in the churchyard found the grave of Oliver Goldsmith, who died in 1774. Sunday, May 26, has been rainy, foggy, and disagreeable. Nevertheless, this morning we visited the Tabernacle of the great and popular preacher, Mr. Spurgeon. We were exceedingly fortunate, in a vast congregation of six thou- sand people, or as many as the Tabernacle would hold, to have seats assigned us within ten feet of the platform from which this distinguished divine speaks. We heard one of his characteristic sermons from Galatians iii. 10, "For as many as are of the works of the law are under the curse." The music is congregational and is conducted by a precentor, without organ or other instrument, except a tuning-fork. The effect is hearty, but far from artistic. In the afternoon we heard the venerable Archdeacon Farrar, at Westminster Abbey, his text being taken from St. Luke xv. 20, the sub- ject being " The Prodigal's Forgiveness." The Abbey was crowded to excess, many persons standing during the entire service to listen to this eloquent and highly gifted preacher. Monday opened rainy and foggy, and proved to be a " yellow day," such as was experienced in Lowell several years ago, when at midday the streets became dark, gas was generally lighted, and many of our more timid and supersti- tious citizens thought the end of all things was at hand. Not so in London. The Jehus all drove with their accus- tomed recklessness, the myriads of human beings with which the city is thronged pursued their usual ways and avocations "Pell Mell," (or rather Pall Mall, for we were on this BOUND ABOUT LONDON. 35 street about that time) , and we went to the British Museum. The immense building is arranged, I think, in seven sections, and contains books, manuscripts, prints, drawings. Oriental, British, mediaeval, Greek, and Roman antiquities, coins, med- als, etc., etc., and, as it seemed to me, everything else under the sun. It is simply bewildering in its immensity, and one could remain there indefinitely without seeing half its beau- ties. What greatly attracted my attention was a page of the original score of "As Pants the Hart," by Handel. There were also several other interesting musical reminiscences. Scores of young lady artists were at the museum, copying various works of art, many, as it seemed to my unpractised eye, with great success. In the Southern Egyptian gallery is the celebrated " Stone of Rosetta," from which were trans- lated the hieroglyphic languages of ancient Egypt. The Natural History Museum,, containing the natural history collections of the British Museum, which has been open about eight, years, and is situated on Cromwell Road, is a marvel of all that pertains to ornithology, mineralogy, bot- any, etc., and is of unceasing interest in every way. The South Kensington Museum, although not so extensive as the British, is quite its equal in works of the highest style of art, and includes an almost endless variety of terracotta pieces, in busts and otherwise, and of Italian majolica. Here is also to be found almost every conceivable kind of early musical instruments, including a harpsichord which belonged to Handel, a German finger organ owned by Mar- tin Luther, and a violoncello once the property of Haydn. All the old instruments having key-boards, after the manner of the piano forte, were confined to about four octaves. 36 ABOAED AND ABBOAD. One of the remarkable sights in the city of London is to be obtained by taking one of the Thames steamers, from the deck of which miles of warehouses and hundreds of steamships and sailing vessels may be seen, thus affording some idea of the immensity of the commercial interests of this great city. A trip from Temple Pier to Greenwich Hos- pital and Park, a distance of some ten miles, gave us a ver}" fine opportunity to view the interesting spectacle. Greenwich Hospital occupies the site of an old royal pal- ace built in 1433. In it Henry VIII. and his daughters Mary and Elizabeth were born. In 1694 the palace was converted into a hospital for aged and disabled sailors, the number of whom, within the last quarter of a century, has been very greatly reduced. In one department is what is known as the Painted Hall, containing the naval gallery of pictures and portraits which commemorate the naval victories and heroes of Great Britain. Here, among many others, is to be found a copy from an Italian original of the portrait of Christopher Columbus, in which every American cannot fail to be interested. In this vicinity also is to be found Greenwich Park, famous for its fine old chestnut trees, one of which measured eighteen feet in circumference. The park is also famous as a favorite resort of the " middlers" of London on Sundays and holidays. Here, likewise, situ- ated on a high eminence, is the Greenwich Royal Observatory, from which the correct time of all England, as well as other countries, is determined. I set my own watch by the stand- ard clock, placed in the wall which surrounds the observa- tory, on this 28th day of May, 1889, at 1.26 p. m., which is a little more than five hours earlier than the given time in BOUND ABOUT LONDON. 37 Lowell. Every school boy has heard of and been taught about Greenwich time, and it is a very great pleasure for me to record that I personally went there and " took it." The time is given, daily, at 1 o'clock p. m. by the descent of a large colored ball, or rather balloon, which at the instant descends many feet. LETTER V. LONDON'S PUBLIC RESORTS. The Crystal Palace — The Parks of London, and, in Passing, a Hint as to How Public Work in Gen- eral Should be Done — Permanence and Excellence Characterize English Work — The Theatres. London, May 31, 1889. NO American would think of visiting London without including the Crystal Palace at Sydenham, which is seven miles from London bridge and reached by the London, Dover, and Calais Railroad, the station at Sydenham con- necting directly with the palace. A third-class fare for the round trip, including admission to the palace, is Is. 6d , or about thirty-six cents. The palace was opened, it will be remembered, in 1854, and, as we speedily found, continues to be a great centre of attraction. In it are embraced copies of the architecture and sculpture of all the most highly civilized nations, a very elaborate collection of mod- ern paintings, and, in a word, an almost endless variety of LONDON'S PUBLIC BESOBTS. 39 useful and ornamental articles, of almost every conceivable design, to attract and induce strangers and others to pur- chase. The building is mainly made of glass, is one hun- dred and seventy-five feet in height, and the general effect is that of being in the open air. After a few hours spent in walking through the building, and taking, of course, only the most superficial view of what is there, and what has been described over and over again, I was attracted by a printed programme announcing the "special arrangements" for the day, which were so very much to my taste that I will endeavor to give some account of them, reiterating the fact that all was included in the railroad and admission fee above stated. First, at 12.30, in the centre transept, an instrumental concert was given, by the " Company's Orchestral Band," consisting of about thirty picked musicians, who performed a programme of great merit, including the overture to " Martha," selec- tions from " Lucrezia Borgia," " Tannhauser," a waltz by Waldteufel, and Schubert's serenade, as a cornet solo. At 1.45 came an organ recital by Mr. E. Watson Brewster, who gave Mendelssohn's sonata No. 2, an adagio by Mozart, a vigorous selection by Bach, and Meyerbeer's " Coronation March" from "The Prophet." At 2.30 the Company's Military Band performed half a dozen waltzes, polkas, marches, etc. At 3.30, in the theatre, the Orchestral Band again appeared. This time Mozart's symphony in E flat — four movements — was played entire, together with half a dozen other selections, including the overture to "Ray- mond," by Ambroise Thomas, the whole affording one of the richest musical treats of my life. Two more concerts 40 ABOABD AND ABB AD, — one each by the Military Band and the organist — were to follow in the evening. A notice also appeared that on Sat- urday, June 22, Mendelssohn's "Elijah" would be given at the Crystal Palace by three thousand i^erformers. If in the vicinity at the time, I hope to hear this. It may be well here to add that the gardens connected with the Crystal Palace cover an area of two hundred acres, and are laid out in terraces, embellished with flower-beds, shrubberies, foun- tains, statuary, etc., the whole presenting a spectacle of great beauty and magnificence. Our next visit has been made memorable to us, on your Memorial Day, by passing the most of it at Eegent's Park, another of the splendid "breathing places" of the great city of London, as well as one of the largest. This park embraces four hundred and seventy-two acres of ground. Within its precincts are several private residences. Here also are the Zoological Gardens, and, if I may say so, the home of Barnum's celebrated Jumbo, which certainly was taken from a most attractive spot to meet with his untimely death in America. In these gardens may be found the greatest variety of animals of every description, birds, rep- tiles, etc., etc., including many interesting specimens of fishes. What particularly impressed me was the excellent accommodation provided for all these wild and very many dangerous captives, and to what extent many seemed to have access to free air and all but liberty itself. Much of this exhibition is out of doors, and consequently upon an entirely different plan from what is generally seen in a trav- eling menagerie. A very beautiful part of Regent's Park is Primrose Hill, from the summit of which a remarkable LONDON'S PUBLIC BESOBTS. 41 view of the city of London is to be had. A " Shakespeare Oak," which was planted on the southern slope of Primrose Hill in 1864, on the tercentenary celebration of the great dramatist's birth, is readily observed. It is inclosed in a high fence, and has now attained the proportions of one of our full-grown apple trees. In visiting these parks one cannot fail to be impressed with the view to permanence as well as excellence of every- thing that is done, to make the same pleasant and attractive to the masses of the people of London. Personal interest, if such a thing exists, is sacrificed to the public good, and it is here that we have a good word for England. The gov- erning powers, certainly in this particular, are well directed, and throw an everlasting discredit on any municipal govern- ment which is actuated only by the principle of bargain and trade. With all Lowell has done, for instance, with Fort Hill Park, and beautiful as that is thought to be, it is but the merest shadow of what is to be found in the most unfrequented part of a London park. Lowell boasts of its one Statue of Victory, which is a very beautiful thing, and the generous gift of one gentleman, the late Dr. J. C. Ayer, copies of which I have seen in this city ; but think of only a single specimen of such art in our large city when here you see such things at almost every turn ! Picture Fort Hill Park with a monument two hundred feet high at its summit, and fifty statues scattered over it, with a magnificent gate- way, and you will even then have but a slight idea of pub- lic grounds in London. I have also been struck with the magnificent avenues both in the city of London and in the surrounding country. 42 ABOABD AND ABB AD. where such things as bad paving and sandy or rocky roads are unknown. Why? Because what is done is done per- fectly, both as a matter of business and of economy. There is not a road or an avenue leading out of the city of Lowell that would be tolerated in England for a single day. Evi- dently the appropriations are not exhausted here with the completion of every job, and wire-pullers are not consid- ered at the public crib at the expense of their neighbors. To be sure, Lowell is a comparatively new city — America itself is new, for that matter — but not too infantile or youthful to begin to shape itself for something more sub- stantial and noble than its present, and perhaps its past, policy has yet indicated. There is many a corner in many an old church or gallery in London, where may be found works of art, culture, and refinement of a pecuniary value that would be considered sufficient to bankrupt our munici- pality, but which, in the flight of time, and through a true historical spirit, have been placed therein to remain for ages, in commemoration of some good man or work. Think what our city churches might become, and what inter- est would centre in our public buildings, if in their erection and furnishings anything like European ideas, skill, and taste found a place. Of the general appearance of London it is safe to say that it differs from American cities. The fact that it was incorporated some eight hundred or nine hun- dred years ago would seem to be sufficient evidence that- it must have, in localities, a very ancient look. Its streets, also, appear to have been laid out without regard to plan or system. Consequently they are crooked and irregular. The LONDON'S PUBLIC BESOBTS. 43 buildings in the older localities, although solid and substan- tial, bear a dingy and sombre look, while those in the newer streets appear modern, and as clean and bright as they can be, considering their constant exposure to London smoke. The main streets are crowded with vehicles, including omni- buses, hansoms, and other public carriages, interspersed with private turnouts, especially in the afternoon, but all are heavy and more or less clumsy, and all turn to the left. To this end signs, " Keep to the left," are everywhere seen. Such light carriages as appear in our streets would be in the utmost danger of being wrecked, although I have thus far observed but one collision. No driver, however, male or female, seems for a moment to regard the streets as places of danger, but woe to the pedestrian who undertakes to cross the street, unless he is an " artful dodger," or under the protection of a policeman, whose wave of the hand is a law in itself. An Englishman's outfit is a "plug" hat and an umbrella — a reminder of the Georgia costume, which is said to be "a shirt-collar and a pair of spurs." One can step into the street in fair weather and before he walks a block find himself in a shower. As a rule there is rain in London every day. The streets are full of venders of small wares, matches, etc. That recent Yankee invention, " pigs in clover," seems to be just now one of the staple commodi- ties in this line of traffic. There are, it is said, fifty theatres in London. The two or three that some of our party have visited have shown, from the crowds present, that this class of amusements is regarded with great favor, and helps to swell the attractions of this wonderful city. The sterling comedy, " Still Waters 44 ABOABD AND ABB AD. Run Deep," drew an audience in full dress, which presented quite as imposing a spectacle to American eyes as the stage itself ; the ballet found plenty of devotees in the humbler walks of life; and Gilbert and Sullivan's opera, ''The Yeoman of the Guard," attracted a general conglomeration of what may be called the lowers, the middlers, and the (h) uppers. The opera was finely set. Miss Geraldine Ulmar, well known to Lowell opera-goers, sustained a prom- inent part, and the music, though generally light, is briglit and melodious, and ranks well with what the writer has heard of Sullivan's productions in the operatic line. LETTER VI. IN THE GAY CAPITAL. The Jolly Quartette in Paris — The Exposition — The American Display Meagre Compared with Others — The Louvre. Paris, June 7, 1889. HAVING- arranged to remain a day longer in London than was first intended, our party visited Kensal Green Ceme- tery on Saturday, June 1, reaching the place by omnibus and passing through many of London's most beautiful and at- tractive streets. The distance from Charing Cross is five miles and the fare is 5d. This cemetery was laid out in 1832. It covers an area of sixty acres and is said to contain seventy thousand graves. The tombstones are gen- erally upright slabs, such as are common in our graveyards, and the monuments are not especially noteworthy. In this cemetery are the graves of William M. Thackeray, Anthony Trollope, Thomas Hood, Sidney Smith, Leigh Hunt, John Lothrop Motley, our former minister to England, and that of his wife, Mary Elizabeth, which we were fortunate enough to find, and of Mme. Tietjens, the great singer, Charles 46 ABOABD AND ABROAD. Mathews, the actor, and other prominent persons, which we were not fortunate enough to discover. The artist of our party, Judge Hadley, made pencil sketches of the graves of Thackeray and Hood, on the summit of the monument of the latter of which and just beneath a bronze bust, are the words, " He sang the song of the shu't." The monument also bears the inscription of the dates of the birth and death of himself and wife, and the fact that the shaft was raised by public subscription. The day we visited this place was sunny and beautiful, and, as if to make the scene doubly impressive, a funeral procession entered and passed us, "with slow and measured tread," while we were standing at one of the above-named illustrious graves. Nothing could have surpassed the beautj^ and loveliness of our ride, as we left London for Paris, through that part of England lying between London and New Haven. During the two weeks intervening since we reached the country the foliage and verdure seemed to have attained their most perfect condition, and, adding to this a clear June day, nothing seemed wanting to complete the picture. As we approached the sea, however, the ground became less fertile, and the chalk formation with which the country thereabout abounds presented a unique and interesting spectacle. The distance by rail, from London to the coast, was fifty-six miles. At New Haven we took a steamer for Dieppe, France. The crossing of the English Channel — a distance, between these points, of sixty miles — is a part of the trip much dreaded by travelers on account of the usually rough and choppy condition of the sea. It is sometimes accounted IN THE GAY CAPITAL. 47 even worse than a trip across the Atlantic itself, so far as exposure to sea-sickness is concerned. Our party, however, found it a really delightful portion of the journey, and derived great enjoyment from it. The approach to the French soil was picturesque, and as we entered the basin, so called, the wharves were lined with pleasure-seekers (although it was Sunday), soldiers, and children, almost without number. Going through the customs department proved a mere formality, our valises not even being opened. Here we took the cars for Paris, a distance of about one hundred miles, and while waiting for the train to start were overrun with children begging for a "sou" — we could un- derstand French enough for that — and as an occasional penny was thrown out the scramble to obtain it was quite worth the cost of the exhibition. Here also were to be seen some of the most degraded female specimens of humanity that could possibly be imagined. As the train moved away and passed through the city we observed a fish market *'in the full tide of successful operation," but the people generally looked indolent and, at the same time, happy. The country through which we passed between Dieppe and Paris, although pleasant and even beautiful, is less so than England, because it is less cultivated, but in many places it bore a resemblance to New England, and that, of course, was an exceedingly agreeable feature. The princi- pal place on our route was Rouen, of which and the river Seine we only obtained the most superficial view from the train, but enough to impress us with the size and general magnificence of that city. The Cathedral of Notre Dame is 48 ABOABD AND ABB AD. one of its grandest Gothic edifices, the St. Ouen is another, and several more were to be distinctly seen as the train passed. Our arrival at Paris was just at night in the midst of a heavy thunder shower. The first day after our arrival was passed in taking a general survey of this great and wonderful city. It has a light and airy appearance, the very opposite to that of Lon- don. The buildings look much more modern, the main streets are wide and wonderfully clean — in fact, are said to be actuall}^ washed during the night — the sidewalks are wide, and are in many instances used as cafes in front of the hotels, and there appears to be no end of drinking beer and light wines, of which the people seem excessively fond, although everything is orderly and quiet and such a thing as drunkenness unseen. Another striking feature is what appear to be the wooden pavements covered with asphalt and in a most perfect condition. This paving, which I intended to mention earlier, is also extensively used in the most crowded thoroughfares of London, and it seemed strange to see it in such a perfect and well preserved con- dition, when it has proved so imperfect and has been to such an extent discarded in our own streets. The inference can only be a want of practical knowledge on our part in the laying of these pavements ; a lack which can and should be remedied. On these Parisian boulevards and streets, although crowded with vehicles of every kind, the stillness is such that eyes and not ears are required to keep from being run over at the crossings, although drivers are not wholly inconsiderate of pedestrians. To one not familiar with the language Paris has its disadvantages. IN THE GAY CAPITAL. 49 We were not long in finding or being found by Doctors Irish and Dutton, with whom we passed a couple of hours very delightfully. These gentlemen appear to have thor- oughly enjoyed their stay in Paris, and to have become entirely familiar with French manners and customs. They left June 4th for London, where we expect again to meet them a week or two hence. On our second day we began the work of visiting the Paris Exposition, to give much idea of which, however, would be almost impossible in the time or space I can hope to devote to it. The ground occupied covers two hundred and ninety-one thousand square meters (French measure) , or nearly twice the space used in 1867. The main buildings occupy the upper portion of the Champ de Mars, so called, in one rectangular block, to which are added two immense wings. There are many foreign sections also, giving ideas of the buildings, customs and manners of nearly or quite every known nationality, all of which must be seen to be appreciated. The most of our time, up to this writing, has been passed in the art gallery, which is magnificent ; but the most wonderful of all is the Eiffel Tower. This is imposing and gigantic almost beyond description. It is constructed entirely of iron, has a height of about one thousand feet, a weight of sixty-five hundred tons, and cost $1,250,000. When I add that within the first two sections or bases, or before the actual tower is commenced, Bunker Hill Monu- ment could easily stand, some little idea may be formed of the immense proportions of this structure. It is also stated that ten thousand people can be accommodated at one time 50 ABOABD ANDABBOAD. at the summit or upper stage of the second section. One is allowed to walk to the summit of the first stage, upon pay- ment of the same fee as for riding, but the second is reached only by the "lift." From there the top may be reached by elevators, but very few persons have yet been seen at the summit of the tower. Since writing the above another day has been x^assed at the exhibition, simply bewildering in the extent and variety of what has been seen. Among other portions we saw not a little of that department designated "United States," which, although by itself and in our own country would seem large and absolutely beautiful and creditable, falls far short and becomes meagre and uninteresting in comparison with that of other countries. The mistake of our govern- ment in not making liberal appropriations and stimulating Americans to spread before the whole world much more com- plete specimens of the artistic and industrial products of the country, thus missing that golden opportunity the advan- tages of which almost every other nation under the sun has been so quick to turn to good account, cannot fail to be pain- fully apparent to any one visiting the exhibition. America, with all its vast resources, cannot afford to turn a "cold shoulder" to every other portion of the globe, and it is to be sincerely regretted that this has not been earlier understood. The Louvre, said to be the most important public building in Paris, both architecturally and on account of its artistic treasures, is a palace of vast extent. The foundation of the present structure was laid in 1541. Its rooms, which are mainly connected with each other, are so numerous and IN THE GAY CAPITAL. 51 so large that it is said to take two hours simply to walk through them without stopping. The ground floor contains a great variety of sculpture, ancient and modern. Here we saw the original "Venus de Milo," copies of which are to be found everywhere. To the writer, this was the most interesting spectacle of the kind on exhibition. The first floor, or picture gallery, contains, it is said, more than two thousand works of high rank, almost every school being represented by works of the old masters, such as Raphael, Rubens, Murillo, Rembrandt, Titian, and many others, any and all of which would suffice to confound and bewilder so uncultivated a mind as mine, although the impressions made will remain as long as life lasts. No attempt will here be made to describe the Egyptian, Asiatic, and other museums of art, which must be seen to gain an}^ adequate conception of their almost endless variety. On our return from the Louvre we looked in at the Church of St. Germain V Auxerrois, which dates, in its present form, from the twelfth century. The signal for the massa- cre of St. Bartholomew (Aug. 24, 1572,) was given from the little bell tower of this church. As we entered the main body of the church we found it filled with worshippers. The rite of confirmation was being administered to a large number of girls and boys. Later we went to the Cathedral of Notre Dame, founded in 1163, and consecrated in 1182, although the nave was not completed until about the thirteenth century. This edifice has since been frequently altered. It is still regarded as having some structural defects, attributable partly to the low- ness of the situation, and the absence of spires ; but with a 52 ABOABD AND ABE AD. vaulting one hundred and ten feet high in the nave, borne by seventy-five pillars, and everything else in proportion, it inspired a feeling of awe and reverence, such as no ordinary structure devoted to religious purposes would be likely to evoke from the casual visitor. As we entered the cathedral we found an organ being tuned, and a funeral service going on at the same time. The rasping tones of a hautboy in the one did not, however, for the moment, produce a par- ticularly solemn and soothing effect on the other, but rather suggested the idea that " business is business," and that the living ever take precedence over the dead. LETTER VII. STILL IN PARIS The Quartette Taking In All the Sights — Pere- Lachaise, the Madeleine, the Pantheon, the Luxembourg, the Jardin des Plantes, ETC., ETC. — A Trip to Ver- sailles AND St. Cloud. Paris, June 14, 1889. AMONGr the most noted and interesting places in Paris is the Pere-Lachaise Cemetery, which, situated just on the outskirts of the municipality, is easily reached by pub- lic conveyance. It derives its name from LaChaise, the Jesuit confessor of Louis XIV. This cemetery was laid out in 1804, and its precincts have since been greatly extended and now cover an area of one hundred and ten acres. It is, distinctively, a "city of the dead," inasmuch as it is arranged in regular avenues, or streets, with shade trees, in many instances, planted in regular order on either side, and kept in perfect condition. One of these avenues, which we happened to discover, extended nearly an eighth of a mile in a straight line, the trees forming a perfect arch the entire distance. The tombs are erected in the shape of small buildings, many, of course, with the most elaborate designs 54 ABOARD AND ABBOAD. and workmanship. Very generally, behind the doors of iron lattice-work, are to be seen wreaths and flowers of almost every conceivable design, both real and artificial, pieces of furniture, and various other emblems of respect and affection for the dead, tastefully arranged and extend- ing upwards to the height of the structure, usually from seven to ten feet. These rooms appeared to have an area, say, of three feet square, the body of the departed resting, of course, beneath a slab constituting the floor. It is said that there are twenty thousand of these tombs or monu- ments in this cemetery. Very many illustrious persons are buried in these grounds, among whom are Rachel, the actress, and Rossini, the musical composer, the grave of the latter of whom particularly attracted my attention. The Church of St. Mary Magdalen, or, as known here, the Madeleine, has a special interest, inasmuch as the foundation was laid by Louis XV. in 1764, although the edifice was not begun until 1777. The Revolution found the edifice unfin- ished, and Napoleon I. ordered it to be completed as a "Temple of Glory." Louis XVIII. returned to the original intention of making it a church. The work was again stopped by the Revolution of 1830, but the building was finally completed in 1842. It is three hundred and fifty-four feet in length, one hundred and forty-one feet in breadth, and one hundred feet high. It is surrounded altogether by sixty massive Corinthian columns, and the niches in the colonnade contain thirty-four modern statues of saints. In the church are many marble groupings of Biblical char- acters, the high altar consisting of that of Mary Magdalen being borne into Paradise by the angels. Directly behind STILL IN PABIS. 55 this stands a large organ, for choir use, and there is another in the high gallery, at the opposite end of the church, of much greater volume and power. These were both heard, together with the excellent choir of the church and its splendid soloists, on Sunday morning, in a mass of striking beauty and excellence. The congregation of worshippers completely filled the vast edifice. Another object of interest in this church is a tablet to the memory of Abbe Deguerry, cure of the Madeleine, who was shot by the Communists on the 24th of May, 1871, at the Prison de la Roquette, in which condemned convicts await their execution or deportation. The tomb of Deguerry, which we did not visit, is in the crypt. It may not be out of place to add that the above death took place during what is known as the Communist " reign of terror," and on the same date the prison was also the scene of the murder of the venerable Mgr. Darboy, Archbishop of Paris, the President Bonjean, the Abbe Allard, and three other priests, who had been seized as hostages. On the 26th and 27th of that month thirty-seven persons, imprisoned under various pre- texts, were also shot, and on the 26th twenty-eight gen- darmes shared the same fate. On Monday we again passed the day at the exposition. The day before, Sunday, it is stated that 250,000 persons visited the place, and on the day following the number was increased to 353,776. Every department was crowded, and any opportunity for examining the innumerable articles on exhibition was rendered almost impossible. We were extremely fortunate in the two days we were there during the previous week. 56 ABOABD AND ABBOAD. On Tuesday we joined a " Cook excursion," and visited Versailles, which is about twelve miles from Paris. On our way we passed St. Augustine's Church, Park Monceau (one of the pleasantest summer resorts of Paris), the famous Arc de Triomphe, and the Bois de Boulogne, which was made particularly gay by the great number of horsemen and horsewomen who were out for a morning ride. The display of horses was among the finest I have seen. One of the most prominent points of observation on this trip was the citadel of Mont Valerien, it being the largest and strong- est of the forts which defend Paris. Afterwards we passed through the town and park of St. Cloud, notable for the palace, now in ruins, which was built in 1658 by Louis XIV. Trees are now grown nearly to full size within the walls of this great structure. Within the grounds of this palace the entire party were photographed in a group — an ingenious device of an enterprising artist stationed there to " turn an honest centime " to account. The photographs were to be ready for delivery in Paris twenty-four hours after being ordered. We next visited the Grand Trianon, a handsome villa of one story, in the form of a horseshoe, at Versailles, in which are the rooms once occupied by Napoleon Bona- parte, and in one of which still remains the bed upon which he slept. Near here is also the coach-house, wherein was to be seen a great variety of state carriages, as many as eight or ten, of the most gorgeous workmanship, together with a great assortment of harnesses and trappings to match. Subsequently we were taken through the Palace of Ver- sailles, wherein was everything that money and royalty could suggest, and perhaps even more elaborate — certainly STILL IN PABIS. 57 more ancient — than what was seen at Hampton Court, near London. On Wednesday our party resumed their own methods of exploring the wonderful sights of Paris and first went to the Pantheon, which stands on the highest ground of the city, on the left bank of the Seine, and occupies the site of the tomb of St. Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris. The present edifice was completed in 1790, the foundation stone having been laid by Louis XV. in 1764. This edifice is of imposing dimensions, its form being that of a Greek cross, and it is surmounted by a dome two hundred and seventy-two feet in height. The interior is decorated with beautiful paintings and other works of art of a national and historical char- acter. Opposite the entrance stands an organ of only moderate size. The vaults beneath contain the remains of Mirabeau, Victor Hugo, whose tomb was covered with flowers and wreaths, and many other distinguished person- ages, although the names were not familiar to me. In these vaults a remarkable echo may be awakened, quite as clear, and even more resonant, than that of St. Paul's Church in London. In the vicinity of the Pantheon we found and visited what is known as St. Genevieve's Church, also that of St. Sulpice, one of the richest and most pretentious Roman Catholic churches on the left bank of the Seine, in which is an organ containing six key-boards, one hundred and eighteen stops, and about seven thousand pipes. The organist is said to be one of the best in Paris, and I regret- ted not to hear him. We also entered the Church of St. Germain-des-Pres, one of the most ancient in Paris. This edifice was founded in the sixth century, and during the 58 ABOABD AND ABB AD. revolutionary vicissitudes peculiar to France it became a saltpetre manufactory, and fell into a very dilapidated con- dition, but the work of restoration was commenced in 1824, and completed in 1836. Instead, therefore, of now being devoted to saltpetre, it has every appearance of being dedi- cated, among other things, to Saint Peter. The palace, gallery, and garden of the Luxembourg proved to possess great interest to an American stranger, the paintings, sculptures, drawings, engravings, etc., — all by living artists, — being fully equal in point of excellence to those seen in our travels during the last few weeks. It seems incredible that such an endless quantity and variety of these works are to be everywhere seen in the few places we have visited, and still more astounding to know in what profusion they are to be found wherever one may travel in Europe. The Musee de Cluny affords a special variety in sight-see- ing in the fact that it comprises a valuable collection of medieval objects of art and products of industry. It is said that here are more than ten thousand objects of special interest, embracing a great variety of furniture, such as was used in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, besides car- riages, sledges, trappings, Sedan chairs, etc., etc. The exquisite carvings in wood and ivory, the sculptures in mar- ble and alabaster, and elaborate iron work, are all well worthy of mention. The Jardin des Plantes comprises and concentrates all that is peculiar to natural science. Besides a zoological and botanical garden, in it are to be found natural history collec- tions, laboratories, a library, and it is said that lectures on natural history are regularly given, to which the public STILL m PABIS. 59 are admitted free of charge. The fifteen acres of ground are beautifully laid out, flowers of every description are growing in great profusion, and the avenues are thronged with women and children, the former largely with their '' knitting work," and the latter amusing themselves and "cutting up all the shines " peculiar to childhood. Their talk is to me like that of so many blackbirds, but they seem to enjoy themselves all the same, and I have no doubt of their great happiness. My Paris experience, however, leads me to entertain the greatest respect, amounting almost to reverence, for the words of Tom Hood, when he wrote : " Never go to France Unless you know the lingo ; If you do, like me, You '11 repent, by jingo ! " The Palais de 1' Industrie is a specially interesting place to visit, and is now chiefly used for the annual exhibition of modern paintings and sculptures, of which it contains, at present, a great and very charming variety. Here the stat- uary is particularly striking, and I could but wish that some pieces, or copies of them, might be transferred to the city of Lowell. In viewing this collection I was profoundly impressed with the belief that the friends of the G. A. E. memorial movement would perform a much more satisfactory service, and confer a much greater benefit upon our fair city, by erecting a monument or some large awd imposing statue in. commemoration of the victories of our soldiers, than by any memorial hall or other building. This would certainly be equally suggestive, and much more attractive and 60 ABOAED AXD ABROAD. ornamental, and the significance of such a memorial would never change. The Hotel des Invalides, with its conspicuous gilded dome three hundred and forty feet high, is another prominent feature of the city of Paris. Within and beneath it is the tomb of Napoleon I. Herein is an open circular crypt, twenty feet in depth and thirty-six feet in diameter. The sarcophagus, which is thirteen feet long, six and one-half feet wide, and fourteen and one-half feet high, consists of a single block of reddish-brown granite, and weighs upwards of sixty-seven tons. So great is the reverence of the French people for this place, and so strong is their affection for their former emperor, that it is invariably visited with uncovered heads. Hundreds of people were present when we saw it. Ill connection with what has been described there are two other chapels containing the remains of other members of the Bonaparte family, and also what is known as the Eglise de St. Louis, which is adorned with old banners, tablets, etc., all of which bear the marks of great age. I think it was stated that a military service is held in this church once each year. A fine looking organ graces the gallery. LETTER VIII. ON TO BELGIUM. A Day at St. Germain — On a Boat Through the Exposition Grounds — Brussels as a Little Paris — The Field of Waterloo. Brussels, June 17, 1889. AN element of interest, not to be overlooked during a visit to Paris for the first time, is found by taking a trip on the Seine. The river is full of craft of every sort and description, and presents, on a sunny day, a very bright and lively appearance. Many of the steamers are painted white and elaborately gilded, as if for some fairy purpose, while others are of a more sombre color, and not unlike the ''Daniel Gage" on our own Merrimack River, except that they are considerably larger. It was on one of these, the " Touriste," that we embarked for St. Germain-en-Laye, thirteen miles from Paris by rail, and more than twice the distance by river, so winding is the course of this stream. On our way the boat passes two sets of locks, built of solid masonry, with iron gates. A stop of six minutes only is required to go through these locks, which strongly remind one of the travel by packet on the old Middlesex 62 ABOABD AND ABROAD. Canal more than fifty years ago, although in the latter case the locks and gates were constructed, so far as possible, of wood. The country scenery was not specially interest- ing until near the approach of our objective point, which is located on a high bluff extending up almost directly from the river. The town itself is as quaint as one could imagine, and as " dead as Chelsea," the only signs of life in the main street consisting of a few little stores, now and then a soldier carrying a gun, and what appeared to be, with the horses about, a cavalry school. St. Germain attained its prominence through being long the summer residence of the kings of France, who were attracted to the spot, as early as the twelfth century, in conse- quence of the beauty of its situation. The terrace, which extends one and one-half miles along the slope of a vine- clad hill, at a considerable height above the river, commands a magnificent view of the immense valley spread out before it. The forest extends over eleven thousand acres of ground, and, so far as observed, is kept in perfect order. All such places, which have been visited by our party, seem almost the per- fection of what can be accomplished in these rare combina- tions of nature and human skill, but this one, in its richness, variety, and extent, seemed to be unequaled. The array and profusion of beautiful flowers, covering some acres of ground, at the entrance of this forest, would require a much more graceful and poetic pen than mine to describe with any degree of justice or approach to accuracy. We left St. Germain at 5 o'clock p. m., and after a ride of nearly four hours passed, I may say, through the Exposition grounds, as they occupy both sides of the river Seine (being ON TO BELGIUM. 63 connected by a bridge). Here we saw the most brilliant illuminations, including that of the Eiffel Tower itself, with rays extending in every direction from the electric lights, looking like so many great comets darting through the clear and beautiful sky of that evening. Indeed, the very stars themselves seemed a part of this magnificent exhibition. It would be easy to write upon many topics relative to the peculiarities of Paris, of the manners and customs of its people, both business and social, which have come under my observation, and which seem so strange to me. In the mat- ter of buildings, for instance, their external appearance is bright, airy, and cheerful, and in their construction there is not only symmetry, but everywhere evidence of taste and refinement. It is curious to see how the otherwise common- place is redeemed and ennobled by art ; how freely statuary is used on buildings, public and private ; how every odd cor- ner is utilized for purposes of ornamentation ; and how no end of curious devices are worked out to give form and comeliness to everything that goes to make a city picturesque and inviting. The streets are kept scrupulously clean and neat, the sanitary regulations seem well-nigh perfect, and, although cafes and drinking-places are found on the very sidewalks of all the most frequented streets and boulevards, and filled with customers, of both sexes, no one is intoxi- cated, no one is quarrelsome, and I have seen no one otherwise than correct and decent in general deportment. Were a corresponding freedom to the " drink" business per- mitted in Lowell it would horrify, beyond description, all order-loving people, rows and fighting would prevail, and rioting would be imminent. Anything done in Paris to add 64 ABOABD AND ABROAD. beauty and comeliness to the exterior of the city appears . to meet universal public encouragement, and, so far as I could observe, nothing in the way of ornament is ever disfigured or defaced. Thieves and vandals are numerous enough, without doubt, but even they apparently venerate and respect the idea of art. I have once before alluded to the matter of monuments and street statuary. Is it not the significance of what they are intended to represent, and their refining influ- ence, that insures the universal respect? Why then would it not, in time, be so with us? Are there not, in reality, *' sermons in stones," and would not a little of this sort of preaching prove a most effective means of grace in giving Lowell the iixipetus which is so much needed in this direction ? The ride from Paris to Brussels occupies about six hours. That part of France through which the train passes pos- sesses the same general features as those already described between Dieppe and Paris, although, if anything, it is rather more inviting. The country for the most part is flat, but very generally cultivated. Here also many of the fields, and the banks of the railway, are red with wild poppies, which grow in great profusion and look exceedingly beautiful. Just now is the haying season, and the work is largely done by women, who spread, rake, and pitch the hay ; but I observed no female mowing and only one carrying a scythe on her shoulder. On this side the Channel I have seen but one mowing machine, and that was in France. Other kinds of field work are also performed by women, which may, per- haps, be accounted for by the fact that the young men of the country are mainly pressed into military service. ON TO BELGIUM. 65 Brussels is said to be " Paris in miniature." It certainly resembles the latter city, in the general appearance of its buildings, which include many elegant Flemish residences, and also in its streets, but it is entirely wanting in that life and animation which pervades the great capital of France. Brussels is noted for the excellence of its carpets and laces, the latter of which we observed conspicuously displayed and apparently for sale, in what otherwise appeared to be private dwellings. Among the specially interesting features of the place is the Cathedral Ste. Gudule and St. Michel, which is an imposing Gothic structure, commenced in the twelfth cen- tury, on the site of a still earlier building, consecrated in 1047. This cathedral contains a great variety of biblical statuary, and also many windows of stained glass, dating from the thirteenth century down to modern times. Brussels also has its monuments, its parks, its bronze statuary, its art gallery, and evidently all the other requisites so prevalent in the old world to make a place beautiful and attractive. Another evidence of its thrift and enterprise may be shown in the fact that on a large and handsome brass sign, in front of a prominent store, were engraved the words : " Agence des Specialites Americaines du Docteur J. C. Ayer & Co., de Lowell (Massachusetts), Etats-Unis d'Amerique." In this vicinity, or thirteen miles from Brussels, is the field of Waterloo, made famous by the great battle fought on the 18th of June, 1815, and just seventy-four years pre- vious to the day we visited this spot. Of its historical interest nothing need here be said. Our guide, however, gave a very minute description of the battle, showing us 66 ABO AMD AND ABBOAD. exactly how the military lines were formed, pointing out the very ground upon which Napoleon and the Duke of Wel- lington stood, and indicating where the final struggle took place, all with as much ease and facility as if he had per- sonally witnessed the great encounter. He explained, very graphically, the errors which caused Napoleon's defeat, and that of the French army. This battle-field is not unlike that of Gettysburg (judging only by the panorama of the latter, seen in Boston), although probably rather more level. It is spread out over a very beautiful country. A mound of earth, one thousand seven hundred feet in circumference and two hundred feet high, has been thrown up on the battle-field, known as Mont du Lion, on the summit of which, upon a lofty pedes- tal, stands an immense bronze lion, weighing forty-eight thousand pounds. The summit is reached by two hundred and twenty-five stone steps, and affords a very commanding view, not only of the battle-field, but of the whole surround- ing country. The Hotel du Musee, near the base of the mound, contains a great variety of old weapons, buttons, coats, and all sorts of relics, which can be seen for a small fee. Everything in the way of sight-seeing has a pecuniary value, and any extra money, not disposed of in fees and " tips," can easily be distributed to the numberless beggars whom one constantly encounters. Not a little of this sort of thing (begging) is done by children, and one favorite method of the youthful mendicants is to run after carriages, the children standing ready, at the foot of a hill, to importune passengers and to attract attention in various ways. Sometimes a boy will play a fiddle and dance, ox TO BELGIUM. 67 another will turn somersaults, and on our return from Waterloo, as our carriage passed a little ascent in the road, three or four boys and a girl of ten or twelve summers stood on their heads, in a row, hoping to receive a few sous, but their gymnastics did not yield much profit on this particu- lar occasion. A curious thing about Brussels is seen in the fact that dogs are made the propelling power by which street venders of all sorts of commodities move about with their two- wheeled vehicles. The dog, harnessed, is under the cart, and pulls away with all his might, while the proprietor serves as guide, and attends to his commercial transactions. LETTER IX. IN THE NETHERLANDS. Charms of Antwerp — The Hague — Amsterdam — Cross- ing THE North Sea — On the Way Home. London, June 22, 1889. AVERY quaint' and curious place is Antwerp. It is now tlie principal seaport of Belgium, has a fine system of clocks, and everything about this abode of commercial indus- try shows thrift and enterprise. Like other large European cities, it is noted for its churches, its museum, and its works of art. The Church of St. Jacques, the erection of which was begun in 1491, but, in consequence of many vicissitudes, not completed until 1656, is one of the most costly and magnificent, internally, of any I have visited. It would be impossible here to describe the extent and elegance of its decorations. In it are burial vaults and private chapels of many of the wealthiest and most dis- tinguished families of Antwerp, including, in a private chapel, that of Rubens, the great painter, and his family. This vault is a very elaborate affair. The Church of St. Paul is another very old structure. In the yard, leading to IN THE NETHEBLANDS. 69 the main entrance, are many statues of saints, angels, prophets, and patriarchs, and in a grotto adjoining is a representation of the "regions below," and also of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, in which lies a figure repre- senting the dead Savior. The Notre Dame Cathedral, however, is the largest and most S3'm metrically beautiful Gothic church in the Nether- lands. This was begun in 1332, but was seriously damaged by Puritanical zealots in 1566, and again by French repub- licans in 1794. In this church are seven aisles, marked by huge pillars, of which no less than one hundred and twenty- five support its vaulting. The tower, which is unsurpassed for grace and elegance, is four hundred and four feet in height, but the mots striking feature is a chime of ninety- nine bells which, during the night, ring out their changes, automatically, every seven minutes. The effect was that of a cross between a fire alarm and a music box, the heavy clanging of the great bass bells, the largest of which weighs sixteen thousand pounds, and the tinkling of the smaller bells, making an exceedingly curious combination of musical sounds, not at all unpleasant, but entirely at variance with anything like a night's rest. I had the pleasure (?) of listening to the music of these bells during the entire night, with the exception of less than two hours, and shall not soon forget the experience. The Hague is another very beautiful place which we visited. It is said that no town in Holland possesses so many broad and handsome streets, lofty and substantial houses, and spacious squares, as The Hague. The streets are interspersed, somewhat, with canals, which afford a pic- 70 ABOABD AND ABBOAD. turesque appearance, but the somewhat stagnant water emits an odor anything but agreeable. On these canals boats are seen passing, heavily laden, each drawn by a man tugging at a tow-line. Here, also, is an interesting museum, largely devoted, however, to pictures, and here is to be found the ]3ainting of Paul Potter's far-famed Bull, which is regarded as the most popular picture in the collection, and remark- able as one of the few animal pieces which this artist painted on so large a scale. About one and one-half miles from The Hague is what is known as the " House in the Wood," a royal villa, erected by the widow of Prince Frederick Henry of Orange, in memory of her husband. This is reached by a drive through a beautiful park, or wood, over a magnificent road, and for a small fee we were shown through the establishment, one of the most cosy and delightful yet seen in the way of royalty. In it are a Chinese Room, a Japanese Room, an Orange Room, and several others, all elaborately and appropriately furnished with the richest material, and in the most exquisite taste. The walls of the Orange Room, about fifty feet high, are filled with beautiful paintings, and the effect produced by the light from the cupola is particularly fine. This room is in the form of an octagon. A special feature of the drive from this place, in another direction from that by which it was approached, was the great profusion of flowers every- where to be seen. In addition to the outside cultivation, the windows of nearly every dwelling we passed were filled with bouquets, pot plants, etc., the effect of which was sim- ply exquisite. On our way out we saw, in a large enclosure covered with green grass, the morning drill of a military IN THE NETHERLANDS. 71 school, and in another part of the town that of a cavahy school, where horses also were being trained to jump fences, some of the animals showing great activity in this exercise. The visit to The Hague was, in every way, delightful. Amsterdam was our next stopping-place, and we mainly satisfied ourselves with a two hours' drive through this great business centre of Holland. Everywhere are indications of thrift, activity, solidity, and wealth. Private residences partake, also, of this general character, and the queer thing is that these often face one of the canals with which the city abounds (a narrow street lying between) but without railing or other protection to guard against accidents by drowning. The buildings are all constructed on piles, the expense incurred for the foundation being, it is stated, sometimes greater than that for the superstructure. Many are of what is known as the Flemish style of architecture. Another peculiarity observed was that the fronts and tops of these buildings, when four or five stories high, instead of standing perpendicular, project toward the street, giv- ing the impression that they will, sooner or later, tumble over. This is caused, it is said, by the imperfections in the foundations, but they do not seem to be regarded as unsafe. Of course, Amsterdam has its many attractions for strangers, but we have mainly confined ourselves to external objects. Before reaching the place we were recommended to go to the " Bible Hotel," and upon arrival at the station we saw, at once, a porter with the badge, " Bible Hotel," so we were straightway taken to the Bible Hotel. The name 72 ABOARD AND ABBOAD. seemed so odd, even for so religious a party as ours, that an effort was made to ascertain from whence such a name for a first-class hotel was derived. The following description, taken from a record in the office of the clerk, who also has the Bible in his possession, will elucidate the whole matter : THE BIBLE HOTEL. The earliest record that can be traced of the Bible Hotel is that Jacob van Eisveld, on the site of the present hotel, had a printing establishment, and it was in this building J. van Eisveld printed and published the first Bible issued in Holland, a copy of which, dated 1542, is still in possession of the proprietor of the hotel. The copy in question is in excellent preservation, being protected by a modern binding, and is looked upon as a very valuable and beautiful specimen of early printing. During the working of the Reformation in Holland, it is said that Jacob van Eisveld, in consequence of his religious views, was forced to leave Holland, and effected his escape through one of the back windows of his house, and was suc- cessful in reaching Antwerp, where, however, his ill fortune followed him, as it is recorded that, shortly after his arrival there, he was summoned before the authorities, found guilty, and executed. From the hands of v. Eisveld the premises passed into the possession of a Scotch family, bearing the name of Cat- termole, the first of whom converted the building into a tavern, and with a natural shrewdness, and with a view, it is supposed, of stamping the former use the building was placed to, took for his sign THE BIBLE, and applied to his use by painting upon his sign the twenty- third verse of the fifth chapter of St. Paul's Epistle to Timothy, " Drink no longer water, but take a little wine." IN THE NETHEBLANDS. 73 It may be interesting to note, in passing, that tlie same old sign, carved in wood, put up by the first Cattermole, still does duty and remains over the portals of the present hotel. From Amsterdam we went directly to Rotterdam, contenting ourselves with what could be seen in a few hours, and from there took the steamer, which crosses the North Sea, for Harwich, thus bidding adieu to the conti- nent. The trip down the Maas River was charming, and the night in crossing the sea — so strongly suggestive of the aria from Audran's opera of Olivette, "In the North Sea lived a whale," — was passed without incident. Belgium and Holland are both splendid countries. The land, though mostly flat, is fertile and well cultivated, and instead of being more difficult places to pass through than France, on account of the language, we found quite the reverse, as everywhere we went, almost without exception, the English language is spoken. The picturesqueness of many of the places through which we passed was height- ened by innumerable windmills, which, with their long arms spreading out, turned with a slow, calm, and serene motion, as if expressing a sense of their own satisfaction and that of the country to which they contribute so much power and force in adjusting and improving its agricultural resources. This brings us again to London, with two weeks more of our allotted time to spend in the old country. Some places of interest still remain in this vicinity to be seen, notably Windsor Castle ; and probably a few English towns may be visited on our return to Liverpool, which may furnish mate- rial for a final letter in this somewhat desultorj' series. It 74 ABOABD AND ABB AD. is generally conceded, however, that a little absolute rest will now be required to assure full benefit from a trip which has afforded so much opportunity for sight-seeing, with relief from the rigid exactions of the long- continued, every- day duties and professional cares devolving upon most of the members of our little party, and to inspire energy and activity in the years yet to come. LETTER X. HOME AGAIN. Return of "Our Quartette" — Last Days in England — Windsor Castle — A Big Fair — The Charms OF Stoke Poges, Stratford, and Ches- ter — Farewell to Britain. On Board the Etruria, ) Mid-Ocean, July 10, 1889. ) WHILE London affords endless opportunities for sight- seeing and excitement, and while one might continue, indefinitely, to gratify almost any conceivable taste for sci- entific research or professional improvement, it is by no means wanting in its otium cum dignitate^ should one be inclined to avail himself of the quieter delights of the great metropolis. Rest and recreation may readily be found, not- withstanding the ceaseless din and the surging masses which everywhere prevail in London's great thoroughfares. There is many a quiet park, full of all that pertains to art, which will feast the eye and gratify the taste, many a display of paintings and collection of curiosities, all of which may be enjoyed without the sense that in so doing one is being overworked. Herein consist some of the city's chief 76 ABO AMD AND ABB AD. attractions, altogether too charming to be overlooked or omitted, and to which the inevitable sixpence or shilling gains easy access. After occupying a few days in the manner above suggested — visiting, among other places, the Old Curiosity Shop, made famous by Charles Dickens ; the Doctor Johnson eating- rooms, still retaining the style and, I judge, the primitive furniture of his time, the sign reading O. C. C. (Old Cheshire Cheese) ; and after receiving the Shah of Persia, to do which we aired ourselves for nearly half a day on the embankment of the Thames, to see His Majesty sail by, in a gorgeously prepared steamer, accompanied by the Prince of Wales and other royal magnates — our party visited Windsor Castle. This is twenty-one miles from London and is reached by the Great Western Railway. On the day of our visit there was in full operation at Windsor the Great Britain Agricultural Fair, consisting of a marvelous exhibition of everything pertaining to the agricultural interests of that country. All our party, except the writer, had previously devoted one day to this fair, with the greatest satisfaction. On this occasion Windsor was filled with people, innumerable flags were flying, vehicles of every description were in the streets, ready to convey j^assengers to the fair-grounds, some two miles distant, and the spectacle afforded a very excellent substitute for the " Glorious Fourth," which all of us, for once, have missed. The castle on this day was opened to the general public, but the crowd was so great, and the vis- itors were hurried through so rapidly, that nothing more than a very general idea of the extent and magnificence of the place could be obtained. The furniture of the state HOME AGAIN. 77 apartments was mostly covered, as if the family were away for the summer, so that, with the exception of the rooms themselves, not much was either seen or enjoyed. This does not apply, however, to the St. George's Chapel, which is richly adorned and is a very beautiful and charming place. In this chapel are the tombs of several former members of the royal family, over which are erected figures, in white marble, of most exquisite design and grace. There are also other figures of great magnificence, representing the Ascen- sion, Christ appearing to His disciples, and Christ meeting Mary in the garden. Of course we went in the procession to the top of the round tower, to the police music of " hurry up here," which neither gave a very dignified impression of the " stately tread" over the stone steps we were climbing, nor produced a particularly profound veneration for this former old prison or anything connected with it. Two miles from Windsor is the charming village of Slough, famous as being the place where Sir William Herschel and his son. Sir John Herschel, made many of their most important astro- nomical discoveries. We went to the observatory building, which, although not open, bore a modest sign, showing where these eminent men accomplished so much in behalf of science. Two miles beyond Slough, reached by one of the most lovely and picturesque country roads that can be imagined, is the church at Stoke Poges, and connected therewith the churchyard which is the scene of Gray's famous elegy, • " The curfew tolls the knell of parting day." This is an Episcopal Church, which has been standing 78 ABOABD AND ABB AD. for several centuries. Its inner construction, although in the form of a cross, is quaint almost beyond description, and it inspired a feeling of solemnity unequaled by that derived from any cathedral we have seen in P^urope. The churchyard itself is beautiful and even elegant in its simplic- it\^ The front walk is lined on either side with beautiful flowers, trained with exquisite skill to a height of at least four feet, and the yard generally is dotted with roses, grow- ing over the graves of many who have slept, for ages, within its sacred precincts. Thomas Gray is buried near the church, and his ashes repose under the same slab with those of his mother and other members of his famil}-, although there is nothing to mark their precise locality. A monu- ment to the poet's memory stands, however, in the adjacent Stoke Park, a fine property once in possession of the descend- ants of William Penn, and a centre of attraction to every visitor. The experiences of this particular visit, I venture to say, will never be effaced from the memory of any member of our party. After bidding adieu to London, on the 2d of July, our first stop was at Leamington, a well-known watering-place with twenty-five thousand inhabitants. The place is distin- guished for its mineral springs, of which there are three kinds said to be efficacious for dyspepsia and affections of the liver. Judging from the taste of the water from one of these fountains, it would be easy to imagine a direct com- munication with the sulphurous regions of Sheol itself. The streets of Leamington are wide and cleanly, and well provided with shade trees. The buildings, as a whole, have a modern appearance, and the residences, of which many are HOME AGAIN, 79 very fine, are generally designated by some special name, which is painted on a stone post at the entrance of the driveway. The idea is unique and the effect pleasant. A short distance from Leamington, and within easy walk, is Warwick, a quaint old town of about twelve thousand inhabitants, situated on a hill rising from the river Avon. Here is the ancient and stately Warwick Castle. It is reached through a driveway cut through solid rock and overspread with immense forest trees, rendering the approach to it both grand and imposing. A walk through the buildings and grounds was rewarded with the view of an interesting collection of paintings and curiosities of various kinds, including the implements and armors of war, more honorable in disuse, — as it seems to one who has more natural thirst for peace than for blood, — than in their deadly service. A peculiarity of the yard encircled by the castle was found in the great number of peacocks, strutting about as if conscious of the dignity to be observed in the grounds they occupied. One of these birds was purely white and very beautiful. Five miles from Leamington is Kenilworth Castle, one of the finest and most extensive baronial ruins in England. This castle was founded about the year 1120, by Geoffrey de Clinton, chamberlain of Henry I. After passing through various hands, it became royal property and was presented by Queen Elizabeth to the Earl of Leicester. Later, as history records, Cromwell gave the castle to some of his officers, who demolished the stately pile for the sake of its material and scattered its costly collections. A walk through its ruins shows the magnificence of its former 80 ABOARD AND ABROAD. proportions, and is full of interest from its prominence as connected with English history. Our next visit was at Stratford-on-Avon, and the centre of attraction was, of course, the birth-place and home of Shakespeare. The views and pictures of this house, so often seen, are entirely correct, but one would hardly imagine the antiquity and circumscribed condition of the rooms within its walls. It is now national property, and, although kept scrupulously neat and in good order, everything about it bears the aspect of the most abject poverty, relieved only by the wealth of mind which it so surely once possessed. In the several rooms are a limited number of articles and mementos of the great poet, includ- ing his school desk, the chair in which he sat, and also an old portrait, formerly in possession of the Clopton family, which attracts general attention. The town itself is quiet and pleasant, the very centre containing the beautiful monu- ment erected by George W. Childs of Philadelphia to the memory of the great poet. On the monument the American eagle and the British lion are displayed with equal promi- nence, and upon it also is a clock with a chime of bells to ring out the passing time. There are also a Shakespeare Hotel, a Shakespeare Book-store, a Shakespeare Restaurant, a Shakespeare Curiosity-shop, and, in fact, nearly all kinds of business have, in one way or another, a Shakespeare sig- nificance, thus showing to what extent the inhabitants still adore and venerate the great mind that has given their town world-wide prominence and renown. The Church of the Holy Trinity, beneath the chancel of which reposes all that was mortal of William Shakespeare, is regarded as the most H03IE AGAim 81 thoroughly satisfying spot in Stratford. This was erected in the fifteenth century, and everything in and about it gives evidence of its great age. The stained glass window repre- senting the Seven Ages, was erected with the contributions of American visitors, who, by the way, are said greatly to exceed those of any other nationality. Just now a new organ is being placed in this sacred edifice, which cannot fail to modernize, and perhaps improve, some of the features of its service. Much more might be written in regard to Stratford, but the above briefly refers to a few of its promi- nent points. The trip from Stratford-on-Avon to Chester gave us a very good view of Birmingham, the great English centre for the manufacture of brass, iron, and other metallic wares, and also of Wolverhampton, near by, equally distinguished for its manufacture of locks, tin plate, and japanned goods. It was a clear, beautiful day, but the dense smoke emitted from the multitudinous chimneys fairly discolored the rays of the sun, and left only the impression that the attraction for strangers must be confined to those directly interested in its general business. The latter portion of the ride to Chester was through a very beautiful and undulating coun- try, and the approach to this place was striking, through the view obtained of the immense walls with which the original town is still surrounded. The present walls, about two miles in length, and over which we walked, have a paved footing, and afford an admirable view of the city and its surroundings. The walls are built of sand-stone, and follow the line of the old Roman walls (although, with the excep- tion of one short section near the water-tower, none of the 82 ABOABD AND ABB AD. old Eoman walls are claimed to be preserved) , and are sup- posed to have been built in the fourteenth century. On the line, and at the New England angle, is the Phoenix Tower, with an inscription recording that Charles I. here witnessed the defeat of his troops on Rowton Moor in 1645. Next comes a watch-tower, and a little further on Pemberton's Parlour, so called, after which is the above named water- tower, which is now converted into a small museum. In this are numerous interesting relics, not the least of which is a model of the first Stephenson locomotive. Under a glass, as the old English gentleman in charge described, is also *' an 'ornet's nest made from the 'eart of a hoak tree." The Cathedral of Chester is notably a place to visit, being a very ancient edifice, as is the Church of St. John, in which now stands the organ played at the coronation of Queen Victoria, in Westminster Abbey. The Rows, so called, are also a unique and characteristic feature of Chester. These are to be found in the four principal streets of the city, and may be described as continuous arcades occupying the place of the front rooms of the first floors of the houses lining the streets, the ceiling of the ground floor forming the foot-path, while the upper stories form the roof. These covered pas- sages are reached from the street by occasional flights of steps, and the arrangement, altogether, affords a double set of stores to one street. For economizing space, and^for the benefit of landlords having " stores to let," the system would seem to be unrivalled. A distinguishing feature of this old place is " God's Providence House," so called from the inscription it bears, in grateful commemoration of its Immunity from the plague in the seventeenth century. This HOME AGAIN, 83 house was originally built in 1652, but reconstructed in 1862, in the old style and, as far as possible, with the old materials. A short ride from Chester brought us to Liverpool, where we arrived on the afternoon of July 4th. Over the Grand Hotel, where we stopped, and, I believe, Americans usually stop in Liverpool, the Stars and Stripes were gaily flying, as if welcoming all who bear allegiance to the dear old national flag. The truth is that Liverpool is more American- ized and much more of an American city, in its general appearance, than any other foreign place I have visited. The second entrance to it was decidedly pleasant and homelike, and nowhere have I passed a couple of days more agreeably and comfortably. With an inclination, however, to rest rather than explore, our party were satisfied with a general survey of its external beauties, while walking through its business streets, visiting St. George's Hall, listening to its excellent out-of-door band concerts, and riding to Prince's Park, which is a beautiful spot covering some forty acres of ground. Of course, when we embarked, July 6, on the Etruria, we had a fine view of the shipping and famous docks of Liver- pool, but the " sounds from home " — some of us found let- ters from Lowell — were altogether too attractive for much thought of anything else. At 3 o'clock we bade adieu to England and English shores, and, at this writing, are in mid-ocean, sailing smoothly, yet almost impatient to reach the shores of the land which gave us birth, and which we are all so proud to call by that ever endearing name — home.