BESCRIPTIVE TOUMj, AND GUIDE TO THE LAKES, CAVES, MOUNTAINS, AND OTHER NATURAL CURIOSITIES, IN CUMBERLAND, WESTMORELAND, LANCASHIRE. AND A PART OF THE WEST RIDING OF YORKSHIRE, By JOHN HOUSMAN ~ EMBELLISHED WITH SUPERB ENGRAVINGS, CARLISLE: PRINTED BY AND FOR F. JOLLIE AND SONS; AND SOLD BY Crosby and Co. and C. Law, London; T. Brown, Edlnburgl, ; Clarke and Co. Lancaster ; Brant hwaite, Kendal; Soulby' and Brown, Penrith; Hetherton, VViftlon; Crosthvvaite' Keswick; Crosthwaite, and Wilson, Whitehaven; Rownes-' BORROWD4LE, and Mordv, Workington; and most other Book ' sellers. 1808. IV ADVERTISEMENT. scenes, and uncommon works of Nature, within the district. Wit If respect to the several Stations for Views, he has confined himself to general direc^ lions, leaving to the Artist of Taste to select for himself such as may best ansiier his particular purpose, Unexaggerated descriptions, in plain iind simple language, are here principalli/ aimed at; and if the Author, in any instance, has fail- ed in the truth and justness of his represenfa' tions, he entreats the candid reader to attribute such inaccuracies either to some unperceived mistake of his own, or to the misinformation of others*^and not to any design of passing a dc* ception upon the public. IJfJBEX. A PACE Ambleside .' .231 Altermire Cave 38 Askham . , ; 91 Alumn Pot . . 70 B Barnsley , . . 1 Bradfard ... 17 Bingley ... 26 Bampton , . ,90 Brougham-hall . 93 Bassenthwaite lake 1 76 Buttermere . .182 Booth . . .266 Catknot-ho!e , 74 Carlton. hall . 100 Crummock lake 195 Coniston-Iake . 258 Conishead . . 294 Chapel Island . 298 Cartmel . , . 300 Dowgill scar. . 40 Douk Cave , . 65 Derwent-water . 127 Dunaldmiil-hoie 275 Ecclcsfieid . . 7 Ennerdale. water 201 listhwaile-waler 256 Furness Abbey 280 Gordalescar. . 32 Giggleswick . . 3S Gingling Cave , 54 Ginglepot . . 60 l Gatekirk Cave . 72 Greenside Cave 73 Grasmere , .219 H Hulpit-hole . . 40 Heath, Village of 10 Huddcrsfield , 8 Holker ... 300 Halifax ... 19 Hurtlepot . , 61 Hardraw-scar . 75 Helvellin . . 225 Hawkfhcad . . 257 Hardrawkin . , 70 Haws-water . . 87 Malham-tarn Malham Cove Meirgill * . Mayborough Milnthorp . N Newby-bridge Penrith 30 31 68 97 272 ^66 101 R ReciprocatingWell 42 Rydal-water , 230 Rydal-hall . .221 I Sheffield . . . 3 Ingleborough . Ingleton . . . 65 45 Skipton . . Settle . . , Saddleback . 27 , 36 116 K Skiddaw . . 185 Kirkstall Abbey 16 Scale-force . 192 Kcighley . . Kingsriale Kirkby Lonsdale Kendal . . . 20 47 77 80 T Thornton-scar Thorntoa-force 4G 46 King Arthur's RoundTable , 95 U KesMJck , , . 126 Ulls-water . 105 Ulverslon 280 L Ulverston Sands 298 Leeds . . . 11 W Lowes water Leathrs-water , Levens-lial! , Lancaster Sands 197 217 269 301 Wakefield . Weathercete Ca Whernside . Was'.dale . Windermere Whilbarrow-sc5. 9 ve57 74 Lancaster , . Lowther-hall . 315 92 i4l 232 r267 M Y Malham , , . 29 Yordas Cave 49 DISTANCES OF PLACES ALONG THE ROADS, WITH REFERENCES TO THE PACES WHERE NOTICED^ MILES. PAGE. Sheffield [Set out from] , 3 Barnsley .... 13 . 7 Wakefield .... JO . 9 Leeds 8i . ]] Kiikstall Abbey . . 3 . 16 Bradford .... 6 . 17 Halifax .... 8 . 19 Return to Bradford . 8 . 25 Bingley .... 6 . '26 Keighley .... 4 . 26 Skiptoa .... 10 . 27 Malham .... 13 . 3 ^^5 266 266 265 267 2«".9 '^~^ 274 2-75 281 281 293 300 300 30O 310 3;.5 ^ REFERENCES TO THE ANNEXED MAP OF THE SOILS, SfC, %, Cold moist Loam is most prevalent. No Coai nor Limestone. T> 5 Mostly aferlile clayey Loam, with Patches of Turnip Soil. No ''^ I Coal nor Limestone, Level Surface, p ^ Sand and light Loam in genera!, producing good Turnips. On I the West Side of Eden Clay predominates more frequently. Urn -Soil generally strong j a Tract of Limestone about D* C Soil various J much light Gravel towards th^ Coast; on the hj< other Side, a wet Soil, on a Clay Bottom, is most frequent. ^ Coal and Limestone abound, •p 5 ^oil mostly a hazel Mould. No Coal. Limestone on the * Banks of the Cuddon. Some freestone. >ppt •I'l « .Heathy Mountains ; Soil mossy. Coal, Limestone, Lead ore. C Heathy Mountains, with mossy Tops, are generally prevalent ; low Moors towards the North End. In the Southern Parts j some fine woody Dales, The Soil of the inclosed Grounds (^ more or less gravelly, yr C Verdant Hills, and pretty fertile Dales. Limestone in the ^ greatest Abundance. Gravel and hazel Mould. -r ^ Dry gravelly Mould, and rich black Soil, with Tracts of Pcat- l moss. Several Coppice Woods. -myr ^ The West Side flat and low ; the East Side rising a little. Soil ^^^ I loamy and pretty rich. Some Tracts of Peat- moss. C Surface fla^, in general. Soil mostly a sandy Loam, on a Sub- ]Nf < stratum of Clay or Marl. Peat-moss in several Places, ^ Some Coal, and a little Limestone. O - . Surface and Soil somewhat like the last. Coal in Abundance. f The Surface exhibits a few gentle Swells. Soil generally con* P < tains a greater or lesser Mixture of Clay, with different De« ^ grees of Fertility, Coal, and excellent while Freestone, ( Hills, covered with Heath and coarse Herbage, prevail more or Q < less through this District, with many fertile Vales. Some (^ Coal and Limestone, particularly about the Centre, Directions for placing the Engravings, View of Furness Abbey Map of the District . Plan of Kendal , . View of Ullswater . Lakes io Cumberland JACE. Yievr of Eagle-Crag . 135 • . 1 View of Wastdaie . . 141 • . . 7 View of Keswick-lake :itr . . 80 View of Bassenthwaite . . . 105 Lakes in Westmoreland . 232 ' . . 127 Plan of Lancaster , . .315- PUBLISHED BY F. JOLLIE AND SONS, CARLISLE, AND TO BE HAD OF C. LAW, LONDON, AND ALL THE OTHER BOOKSELLERS : A large Imperial Sheet Ground Plan of Whitehaven, with Views of the Churches, Caslle, and Harbour, by Mr. Howard, (same as published by Subscription at 5s,) price only Is. Anolher Ground Plan of Whitehaven, in one Sheet, from the same Plate, but witiiout tlic Views (same as published in the Histo* tory of Cumberland) price only 6d. A Ground Plan of Carlisle, on one Sheet, (same as published in the History of Cumberland) price only 66. A Ground Plan of Wo;kington, with Views of Workington-hall, (same as published in the History of Cumberland) price 4d. All the above are adapted to bind in with this Work. Hutchinson's History of Cumberland, 2 vols. Medium Paper, neat'y bound, price o6"3. Ditto, fine Dejny Paper, neatly bound, £2 12s. 6d. Hutchinson's Spirit of Masonry, 5d edit. 4s, bd. Howard's Drill of Light Infantry and Riflemen, as arranged for the Cumberland Rangers, 2s. boards. ColIyer*s Sacred Interpreter, 2 vols. 8£, boards, 12s. bd. The History and Antiquities of Carlisle and Neighbourhood, price 3s. 5d. g:f» The Six elegant Views given ia this Book, may be had je» parately, at Cd* each. A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; on GUIBE TO THE LAKES, In respect to the mode of visiting the Lakes j most Tourists think, and perhaps with good taste, that Coniston-lakc ought to be first seen, and af- terwards Windermere-water, Rydale-water, Gras- mere-water, Leathes-water, and those in the neigh- bourhood of Keswick, in succession ; as, by this course, we are led from the simple and pleasing to the grand and sublime works of nature. This route will, indeed, be found most convenient to those who come by way of Lancaster, and return from Keswick by Ulls- water ^ Penrith, and Haws- water, to Kendal ; but for such as arrive first at Kendal, or Penrith, and more particularly the lat" ter place, it will be found most commodious to lake them in the following succession, viz. Haws- water, Ulls-water, Derwent-water, Bassenthwaite- water, Buttermere- water, Crummock-water^ £ 'iw^^ ^^i^y^^ea^ r » A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR liOwcs-water; Ennerdale- water, and Wast-walcr : return to Keswick, and from Uicncc to Lcathcs- "water, Grasmere-wafer, Rydal-water, Winder- mere-water, Esthwaite -water, and Con ist on- wa- ter : thence proceed to seetbe curiosities in Fur- ness, and return by Newby -bridge to Kendal, or cross the Sands to Lancaster, — Tourists from Scot- land or Northumberland will tind it most conve- nient to proceed from Carlisle to O use-bridge, at the lower end of Bassenthwaite-water. After vi- siting that lake, they may either go directly to Keswick, or first visit Buttermerc-v/ater and the adjacent lakes. From Keswick proceed to Am- bleside ; and, having viewed the beauties of Win- dermere-watery cross the ferry to Coniston-iake, by way of Hawkeshead. The traveller might ride immediately from thence to Kendal, by way of Newby abridge, or pursue his route still further, to Ulverston and Furness^ and visit the antiqui- ties there, and aficrwards enjoy the pleasure of a new scene, in a journey from Ulverston to Lan- caster, over the Sands. Return from Lancaster by Kendal, Haws- water, U lis- water, and Pen- rith, to Carlisle. The caves in Yorkshire may be visited cither before or after the lakes, as it may suit the conve- nience or inclination of the Tourist ; in this work, however J they come first under our observa- tion. GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 3 We shall commence our remarks at the south- ern point of the district, and join company with the traveller at Sheffield. This town is re- markable for its flourishing manufacture of hard- ware, and its consequent rapid increase of popu- lation and buildings. Sheffield seems to have been the staple for iron manufactures from the year 1297, particnlaiiy for falchion-heads, arrow- pikes, and an ordinary sort of knives called whit-' ties : afterwards other articles of cutlery were in- vented and manufactured in the town and neigh- bourhood ; such as sheers, knives, scissars, scythes, and sickles. About the year 1600, an ordinary sort of iron tobacco-boxes began to be manufactured, and a gewgaw called a Jew's- harp. In 1638, razors and files began to be made. In 1640, clasp or spring knives were first manu- factured with iron handles, which, in a short time, were covered v/ith horn, tortoise-shell, &c. The inhabitants of this town, however, for near a cen- tury afterwards, appear to have discovered more industry than ingenuity :, their trade was incon- siderable and precarious, and none presumed io extend their traffic beyond the bounds of this island ; nor did they think of sending out people in search of orders — there are persons still living who remember that the produce of the manufac- tory was conveyed weekly, by pack-horses, to the metropolis. About' fifty years ago, Mr. Jo- B 2 ^ i A DESCRIPtlVE TOtTR; OR SEPH Broadbent first opened an immediate trade with the continent ; master manufacturers began to visit London in search of orders with good success ; and several factors now establish* ed a correspondence with various parts of the continent, and engaged foreigners as clerks in their compting-houses. Thus the trade and ma- nufacture of Sheffield arrived gradually to that perfection which now renders it famous through- out Europe. The principal articles manufactured in this town, are knives, razors, files, and scissars ; there are, likewise, saucepans, tea-urns, coffee-pots, cups, tankards, candlesticks, &c. &c. made here, besides a great quantity of silver and plated goods. Two small rivers, which form a junction at the town, assist in turning the machinery ; and plen- ty of cOals being at hand for the working of fire- engines, all the heavy work has of late years been performed by machines. I.i short, tlie manufac- turers of Sheffield have made such improvements in the manufacturing of their several articles, that they are now able to undersell every other mar- ket in the world. It has been remarked, that before the intro- duction and use of macliiiiery in forging iron and steel, the necessity of performing such hard and GUIDE TO THE LAKES. » lieavy work by the hands of men, occasioned Sheffield to abound in cripples, and in weak de-. formed people ; but this is by no means the case at present. The nature oft]ie manufacture, how- ever, gives to the manufacturers, as well as the town itself, a very dark complexion. Notwithstanding the very low prices at which Sheffield wares are sold to retailers, the meanest knife passes through the hands of five cutlers, in different branches of cutlery, before it is finished. The workmen can earn great wages, but are much addicted to drinking, the origin of every vice and excess. The population of this town is said to be about 28,000, but including the adjoining villages about S0,000 or 31,000 inhabitants. From the Registers it appears, that, on ah average of ten years, between the years 1561 and 1571, there were 108 baptisms, 71 burials, and 23 marriages, annually : between 1661 and 1671, there were 208 baptisms, 226 burials, and 58 marriages, an- nually : between 1761 and 1771, there were 888 baptisms, 755 burials, and 255 marriages, annu- ally. In the year 1 793, there were 1732 baptisms, 1482 burials, and 444 marriages ; and in 1794, there were 1582 baptisms, 1473 burials^ and 402 marriages. The population of Sheffield has ra- ther decreased since the year 1793; on account of B 3 i" A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR J OR the great number of its inhabitants who have en- tered into the army. The scite of Sheffield is irregular ; it stands principally on an oblong hill, .but extends over the adjoining valleys, and again rising the hills at each end. Its three churches, which are erected on the hill, have a fine effect ; their spir»"s over- top the Avhole town, and are rendered still more majestic, at a small distance, by tlie intervening^ atmosphere being almost continually thickened with the sooty exhalations. — Sheffield is a modern well-built town ; the streets are clean, and many of them spacious. A new infirmary, upon a li- beral plan, is just finished, which stands a little out of the town. Here are three churches and one chapel of the establishment, besides a great number of chapels belonging to the different sects of Dissenters. In 1786, a new market-place was opened, containing extensive and commodious sshambles, and other conveniences, erected by hrs Grace the Duke of Norfolk, whose estate in this town and neighbourhood is said to produce Him .^30,000 per annum. — Here are also a num- ber of genteel public buildings, viz. an assem- bly-room, a theatre, town-hall, cutlers' -hall, &c. besides several charitable institutions for the dothing, education, and maintenance of the poor. The soil in the neighbourhood of Sheffield is 5^3 d. ee ed he V r of At 5 a rd- ron we md of ►re- md Carl RDi Ige- 1 is sur- It The lotk cac on top ma^ atiB -wit] well ofti bers out ©nc' num ofD ©per. sHan Grac thisi Ilim ber < bly-T besid ©loth tSUIDE TO THE LAKES. 1 a deep clay, and the land chiefly in meadow, pasture, and garden ground ; the surface is irre- gular, and the face of the country rather naked. The climate is moderate — about thirty-three inches of rain fall in a year. Leaving Sheffield, we proceed northward;? to Barnsley. The road tolerable, witli a flagged causeway on one side for foot passengers : the soil strong, and mixed with a white sandy clay ; buildings good, partly of brick, and partly of white freestone ; and the population great. At four miles distance, pass through Ecclesfield, a village flourishing in the manufactory of hard- ware ; and, soon after, the road visits several iron forges and founderies. Towards Barnsley we begin to leave the rough manufacture of iron, and approach the country where the softer one of wool is carried on. Here two elegant seats pre- sent themselves, viz. Wentworth-house, and Stainmore-hall ; the former belonging to Earl FiTZWiLLiAM, and the latter to Lord St ArpoRBi Several pieces of woodland, and trees on hedge- rows, adorn the face of the country, which is here pretty level. Barnsley is a small market-town, sur- rounded with coal-pits^ and some iron works. It carries on a considerable linen manufactory. The yarn is procured from Holland, and the cloth ^ A DESCRIPTIVE T6ua ; OR cliicflj exported. Here is also a trade in wire, and some branches of hardware. We proceed to Wakefield, ten miles. The soil becomes more light, in general, but in some places cold, wet, and sterile. Tlie surface of the country rises in gentle sv/ells, though not hilly. The chief objects of culture are corn and grass, in a due proportion, and the land seems pretty well cultivated. A new canal, between Barnsley and Wakefield, accompanies the road. This canal extends from Barnsley to the naviga- ble river Dun, which empties itself into theHura- ber. Approaching Wakefield, we find ourselves entering the country of woollen manufactories, where the increasing population is distinguished by the number of nev/ houses and cottages placed on the sides of tjie road. On the left we have HuDDERSFiELD, at the distance of twelve or fourteen miles. It is a modern middle-sized town, containing about 8500 inhabitants, who are almost wholly supported by the woolen manufac- tories. That town (a few houses excepted) is the property of Sir John Ramsden, who grants leases for building, renewable every twenty years, on payment of two years ground rent. The po- pulation has incicased more than two-thirds since the year 1710. Sir John built a good cloth- hall some years ago, where the finest broad and narrow cloths are sold j as well as fancy cloths. GUIDE TO THE LAKE&. 9 elastics, beaverettes, &c. ; also lionleys and ker- seymeres. The qualities run from lOd. to 8s. per yard, narrows, and broads as high as the su- perfines in the west of England. The finest broads in Yorkshire are made at Saddles worth, and sold in liuddersfield market. The goods are made from all sorts of short English wool, worth from ^6 to .5^35 per pack : and from Spa- nish wool. The lowest priced English wool is chiefly short, sorted from large fleeces of comb- ing wool, bought in Lincolnshire, Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire, and the neighbouring counties. The finest English wool is from small fleeces in Herefordshire, Shropshire, and other western counties : and also from Kent, Sussex, and their neighbourhood. Sir John Ramsdeis^ made a navigation from liuddersfield to tlie Calder. A canal al- so from that town joins the Manchester and Ash- ton canal. We now cross the navigable river Calder over a bridge (ou which stands an ancient cha* pel, with Gothic sculptures, said to have been built by Edward 17.) and enter the opulent and handsome town, of Wakrfield. The streets are generally clean, with flagged walks on each side ; its buildings good, and increasing in num- ber. The lofty spire of the old church is con- spicuous at a great distance. The cloth manu- 10 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR factories in this neighbourhood are numerous^ but the cloth is chiefly sold at HuddersJSeld. Some tammies, camlets, and a few white cloths, are, however, sold here ; but its principal market is for wool, wh ich is sent to the factors here in large quantities from all parts of England, who dispose of it among tlie manufacturers in the different districts aroLii>:l. The river Calder was made navigable to this place by authority of Parliament in 1698. The surrounding country is pleasant, particularly to- wards Pontcfract, where the soil is more dry and fertile. About two miles from Wakefield stands the village of Heatk, which is universally allowed to be one of life r^oGt beautiful in England. It is situated on an eminence above the river Calder, commanding an extensive and delightful view of the rich and populous country around. This village is built by the side of a green, and the houses are all of stone found on the spot : many of them are very elegant, and belong to people of quality. We continue our northern route towards Leeds, eight miles and a half. The country pretty level and pleasant ; ihe soil contAins a great proportion of clay ; fields and farms small, and principally in grass ; hedges planted with I GUIDE TO THE LAKES. It quickset ; and tbe fanners conlinue to use the long team of three or four horses in a line yoked to a plough. — The roads are but indifferent. — • liouses and buildings good, modern, and extreme- ly numerous on all sides ; and the manufactories of cloth and stuiFs engross the attention of the whole country on every side. Leeds, at a little distance, seems to spread fo a great extent, and the churches and other build- ings bear a modern aspect. On entering the town we find ourselves not deceived ; every thing has the appearance of vast and increasing wealth, as well as population. This town, from an inconsiderable place, has, by the manufacture and sale of cloth, been augmented in its size, riches, and population, to a wonderful extent. It contains upwards of 53,000 inhabitants, almost double the number it was calculated to contain thirty years ago. Houses, nay whole streets, are building almost every year. The streets in the old parts of the town are narrow ; but those oc- cupied by the mercliants, manufacturers, and superior tradesmen, are broad and spacious : the houses are u^niform, elegasif, and so clean, even externally, that scarce a speck is to be seen on the broiid foot pavement. In a considerable por- tion of Leeds, the inhabitants enjoy at once the social pleasures of the town, and the fine air and (pheerful prospects of the country : the modertt 1& A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR houses being cither built in a line, with an open view into the fields, or in large squares, the areas of which are covered with grass and shrubs, and kept in the neatest order. The town, taken ge- nerally, is kept clean, every street having a flag- ged walk on each side. The buildings arechief- ly brick (the clay for making which is frequently dug up in the new intended streets) and covered with white slate. Leeds is the little metropolis for the woollen trade : cloth is exposed for sale there on Tues- days and Saturdays, an hour and a half each day ; and, by a rule among the manufacturers, the merchants are not allowed to buy, nor even to look at cloth, except at these appointed hours. The times of sale begiii and end by the ringing of a bell : and if a merchant is found in the hall after the bell has ceased, he forfeits 5s. — There aretwo cloth halls, the one for coloured, and the other for white cloths ; but the coloured cloth hair is the principal : it is a quadrangular build-, ing, inclosing an open area, one hundred and twenty-seven yards and a half by sixty-six ; and was erected at the expencc of the manufacturers in 1758. This hall is divided into six covered streets, each of which contains two rows of stands, the freehold property of separate manufacturers, who are in number about 1750. Tlie,-,c have all .^rved a regular apprenticeslnp to the makin<^ GUIDE TO. THE LAKES*, M of coloured cloth, wliich is an indispensable con- dition of their admission into this hall. The white cloth hall Avas built in 1775 ; it is ninety -nine yards by seventy, and, divided in- to five streets, each with a double row of stands,^ the number of which is 1210. About 1792, a third cloth hall was built in this town, which contains a great number of standi for those who have not served a regular appren- ticeship as cloth -makers ; also for' those wlio cannot purchase stands in the other halls. This has obtained the name of Tom Paine' s Hall^ from the circumstance of some French agents coming over about the time it was built, and piir^ chasing all the cloth they could find. This is usually called by the cloth-makers the Tom Jraine trade. • The whole number of broad cloth mahtifac- turers in the West Riding of Yorkshire, tvas calculated in 1794 to bd S240, not one of wheiti is to be found more than one mile east, hdr' twi> jjorth of Leeds ; nor are there many in the towi*, iiad those only in the outskirtsi»*''^P*'' Although the coarser kinds ttf cT6th BartJ long constituted the stny>le manufacture of^Leieds^ audits vicinity, yet tJife manufactulfe'iof '3Uper« c lt\ A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR fines lias considerably increased of late years, and still more recently, very large quantities of fancy articles have been made, such as swans- downs, toilonets, &c. &c. Sever ai. cotton mills have been lately erect- ed in or near ' Leeds, w hich are chiefly worked by the means of steam-engines. '^i^E cloths are sold in their respective halls ro^gh a^.th^y come fiom the falling-mills. They a j:^ finished \iy the merchants, Avho employ dres- sers, dxers, &c. for that purpose : these, with di:-ysalters, shopkeepers, and tlie different kinds qfliandycraftsmen, compose the bulk of the in- i^itaLnts of Leeds., ^fhe dispersed state of the manufacturers, in villages and siisgle houses, over the whole face of the county, is highly favourable ^o ttheijr morals and their ha})piness. They are generally men of small capitals, and often annex a small farm to their other business. Some of th/eip haye.a field or two to support a cow or a ]^o^e ;,.^(| jire^ fur the most part, bles-ed with jj^. [comforts, without the superiluities, of life. 3P^pre are, ^Qw.ever, some instances of these ma-^ tt^J^turer^ l)ecopiing independent ; and the merchants frequently accumulate very large forr tunes, if we may judge from their nuiiiy and ek- g^ag §e^ts, ^ith^ which the neighbour-icol of |al^g|i$ s^u^ed^, ; lIiawMi the whole^ the trade ai»l;ina9,^f%Gtiirp <3!f this town., if we may ha/arc^ GUIDE TO THE LAKES. IS another conjectare from external appearancesj seem in their efFect ahnost equally lucrative to a Peruvian mine. In this town there are two carpet manufac- tories ; several small potteries for coarse ware in the neighbourhood ; and a large one for finer sorts of pots, the flint and clay for which are brought from different other parts of England. Many of these pots are exported to the Continent. —Coal is plentiful in the vicinity of Leeds. The river Air, which visits this town, is navigable fof small craft to the Humber, from whence there is an easy passage to the sea. By the same route small vessels from London can navigate to Leeds, Among other public buildings, are four church- es ; several chapels for Dissenters of every deno- mination ; a very fine infirmary, supported by public subscription in a liberal manner ; a work- house, well conducted, but which is a rather meaii and 411- situated building. In the neighbourhood of this towH th^ soil is generally a rich loam, and the surrounding country cheerful. We now proceed from hence to Bradford, nine miles. The road leads through a fine plea- sant country for three miles, when it crosses a fertile vale, through which runs the river Air, c 2 16 A BTESCRIPTIVE TOUR j Olt accorapanied with the Leeds and Liverpool ca- nal. In this sweet; vale, a little below the road, stands the remain of that venerable pile Kirk- stall Abbey, embowered in groves of old oak trees. This noble structure is now almost wholly in ruins. — A few cloisters, some high walls and gateways, and part of a very high tower, of fine Gothic architecture, are yet standing, which suf- ficiently evince its former mag-nitude and impor- tance. This once famous place is visited by most strangers who travel through this part of the country. It belongs to Lord Cardigan, who allows a mason ^10 a year for keeping it in rC" pair. It was a religious house of the Cistercian order, founded in 1157 by Henry de Lacy. l^'aoM Kirkstall to Bradford the surface of the country is pretty level ; the soil various, but generally a black moorish earth, with a substra-^ tum of red sand intermixed with clay. A great part of the country seems to have been formerly common, and has not even yet acquired a very fertile appearance. The fields are large, and a considerable proportion of corn land is here ob- servable. — The farms also seem more extensive than those in tlxe districts hitherto described. — Houses and cottages are numerous, and well built. Ramifications from the neighbouring manufacturing towns occupy all this country. — Roads here are bad, being formed of soft mate- GUIDE TO THE LAKES. X7 rials. Towards Bradford the land is cUiefly grains, divided into small farms, and occupied by manufacturers, who depasture their cows there- on. Bradford is a neat, middle-sized manufac- turing town, which, in 1781, contained 4200 in- habitants ; and at present is supposed to afford residence to 5000 people, two-thirds of whom, it is calculated, are employed in the different ma- nufactories, in some or other of their various branches. The manufactures of this place are tammies, calimancoes, russets, broad and narrow cloths, cards for carding wool , combs, aud leather boxes. In the three last branches about SCO hands are constantly employed. In the vicinity of Bradford is a very capital iron foundery and forge, which has the advan- tage of coal and iron ore procured on the spot. Cannon have lately been cast there for Govern- ment, and are said to have answered the most sanguine expectations. Coals abound in the neighbourhood, and large quantities are sent by means of the canal (which is a branch from the Leeds and Liver- pool canal) into Craven, from whence Lmestone is brought in return. Bradford is well built with freestone got in its vicinity j the surrounding 1^ A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR grounds rise gently from the town on almost eve- ry side ; and the sloping, irregular, green fields, intermixed with a few trees and neat houses, have a good effect, as seen from some part's of the town, and other points of view. We turn westwards from hence to HalifaXj^. eight miles. The road not good : a flagged path on one side accommodates foot travellers. The country is naked, and the soil generally rather light, but not fertile. Stone walls divide the jfields, wherein we frequently observe furze or whins growing plentifully— a circumstance which marks a neglected state of agriculture. The sur- face is rather high and hilly ; and some black- looking commons appear near Halifax. The population of this country, notwith- standing the sterility of the soil, i« incalculable : houses and cottages are every where in great numbers, as far as the eye can reach ; and little is attended to by the inhabitants besides the wool- len manufacture, for which this district is parti- cularly noted ; it affords labour and bread to in- numerable families, who quit their own counties in the hopes of finding an increase of wages here. How far their expectations are answered is un- certain ; but, if one may judge from their con- duct and appearance, poverty still too generally prevails : almost every village exhibits strong GUIDE TO THE LAKES, i9 marks of abject misery; the children, cloathedin rags and dirt, run in troops after the traveller, begging halfpence, as long as they can keep pace with him. Does not this indicate inattention ei- ther in the police or parish officers ? Begging, in every shape, ought to be discouraged ; it is the sure concomitant of idleness, and often of some* thing worse. Halifax is surrounded by a rather bleak country ; stands low, and on the declivity of a hill, the foot of which is washed by a small brook. It is a place of ancient note in the woollen manu- factory. The parish covers about 150 square miles, and contains thirteen chapels of ease — these are proofs of the ancient wildness, thinly inhabit- ed, and desert-like state of the country. It ap-^ pears from an old manuscript, that in 1443 there were no more than thirteen houses in Halifax ; which number, in 120 years, was increased to 520 houses. It is probable that about this pe- riod trade was introduced : in 1520, one of the three great clothiers of the north of England liv- ed at Halifax. Wright, the historian of Hali- fax, affirms, that the woollen trade was brought here from Rippon, for the sake of the advantage of coals and water. There is a tradition that it first came into Yorkshire out of Devonshire^ where it had been established by some workmen from Flanders. About the 17th Edward IF. so A DESCRIPTIVE TpUR; OR two fulling mills were erected at Rastrick, within this parish ; but the reign of Henrx VII . has by some been mentioned as the principal period of the introduction of the woollen manufocture in these parts. The manor of Halifax is parcel of the very extensive one of Wakefield. Great part of it was anciently called the Liberty of the Forest of Sowerbyshire, or of Hardwick. Within this Li- berty a very singular custom long prevailed, cal- led Halifax gibbet law. It consisted in a sum- mary mode of trying, and capitally punishing, felons, (apparently thieves only) taken within the liberties, with the goods found about them, or up- on their own confession ; and the mode of execu- tion was beheading, by means of an instrument called a gibbet, consisting of two upright pieces of timber joined by a transverse piece, within which was a square block of wood sliding in grooves, worked in the uprights, and armed be- low with an iron axe : this being drawn up, was let fall suddenly, either by pulling out a pin, or cutting a cord that supported it j and thus the malefactor's head was at once struck off. — An engine exactly of the same kind was for some time used at Edinburgh, under the name oitke maiden ; but whether this was the original, or only a copy, is disputed. It has lately been revived, with improvements, in France, undei the name of tlie GUIDE TO tHE LAKES. SI too famous guillotine ; which appears, however, to have been an original invention of the person whose name it bears. With respect to this at Halifax, it seems to have been pretty freely used, especially after it became a manufacturing town, against the robbers of tenter grounds. The last executions by it were in 1650 ; the practice was then put a stop io^ the bailiff being threatened with a prosecution if he sliould repeat it. For- ty-nine persons had suffered by it, from the first entries in the register in the year 1541. A raised platform of stone on which the gibbet was placed is still remaining in Gibbet-lane. Mr. Pennant gives the following account of this remarkable custom : '^ The time when this custom took place is unknown ; whether Earl Warren, lord of this Forest, might liave established it among the san- guinary laws then in use among the invaders of the hunting rights, or whether it might not have taken place after the woollen manufactures at Ha« lifax began to gain strength, is uncertain. The last is very probable ; for the wild country around the town was inhabited by a lawless set, whose de- predations on the cloth tenters might soon stifle the efforts of infant industry. For the protection of trade, and for the greater terror of offenders by speedy execution, tliis custom seems to have been 22 ' A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OH establislicd, so as at last to receive the force of law ; which was, < That if a felon be taken within the liberty of the Forest of Hardwick, with goods stolen out or within the said precincts, ei- ther hand'habendy hack-herandj or confession^dy to the value of thirteen pence halfpenny, he shall, after three market-days or meeting-days within the town of Halifax next after such his apprehen- sion and being condemned, be taken to the gib« bet, and there have his head cut from its body.' " The offender had always a fair trial ; for as soon as he was taken he was brought to the Lord's bailiff, at Halifax ; he was then exposed on the three markets (which here were held thrice a week) placed in a stocks, with tlie goods stolen on his back ; or, if the theft was of the cattle kind, they were placed by him ; and this was done both to strike terror in others and to produce new informations against him. The bailiff then summoned four freeholders of each town within the Forest, to form a jury. The felon and prose- cutors were brought face to face ; the goods, the cow, or horse, or whatsoever was stolen, produ- ced. If he was found guilty lie was remanded to prison, had a week's time allowed for preparation, and was then conveyed to tliis spot, where his head v/as struck off by this machine, ^* This privilege was very freely used du- li GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 23 ring the relgji of Elizabeth : the records before that time were lost. Twenty-five suffered in her reign, and at least twelve from the year 1623 to 1650 ; after whicli, I believe, the privilege was no more exerted. " This machine of death is no;w destroyed ; but I saw one of the same kind in a rpppo. uiidej the Parliament-lionse at Edinburgh, where it was introduced by the Regciit Morton, who took a model of it as he passed tli rough Halifax, and at lengtli suffered by it himself.— It is in the form of a painter's easel, and about ten feet high. At four feet from the bottom is a cross bar, on which the felon lays his head, which is kept down by another placed above. In the inner edges o;^the frame are grooves ; in these is placed a sharp axe, with a yast weight of lead, supported at the very summit with a peg ; to that peg is fastened a Gord, which the executioner cutting, the axe falls, and does the affair eflectually, without suffering the uidiappy criminal to undergo a repetition of strokes, as has been the case in the common me- thod. If the sufferer is condemned for stealing a liorsc or a cow, tlic string is tied to the beast, wliicli, on being whipped, pulls out the peg and becomes the executioner." The streets of Halifax are narrow, but have flagged walks on each side. It is well built of 34 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OH white, stoncj and is increasing in buildings and population. The wealth of the place is evident from the number of neat seats in the neighbour- hood, built by the merchants and manufacturers, and decorated with groves of trees, walks, gar- dens, &c. The market-house, or piece-hall, lately erected, is an elegant building, nearly square; the outside 112 yards by 100, and the inside 100 yards by 88. It has three floors on the lower part, and two on the higher, and contains in all 315 different rooms or apartments for the reception and sale of manufactured stuffs. Each of these rooms belongs to a different manufactu- rer, and costs him ^2S ; and it is reckoned that not less than ^50,000 worth of goods are exposed for sale therein at a time. There is a covered walk before every tier of shops, by mcansof which the merchants can go from one shop to another, without inconvenience, in the wettest weather. This house is only open on the market days. — The church is a fine Gothic building of good ap- pearance, and with a high tower. Being found too small for the congregation, an Act of Parlia- ment has lately been obtained for the erection of a new church. The church-yard is Avhoily cover- ed with flat tombstones, laid on the surface. Houses, which open into the church-yard, form the wall about a great part of it ; but they are certainly not calculated for people of nice feel- eUtDG TO THE LAKES, 2S ings, graves being daily opened wiiliin a few yards of the doors, and human bones tumbling about on every side. — The population, in 1801, was estimated at 9000 inhabitants. The principal fabrics in this town are tam- mies, calimancoes, russets, and broad and narrow cloths. They are generally woven by poor ma- nufacturers, and sold in an unfinished state to. the merchants, who dye and prepare them for fo- reign and home consumption. Halifax enjoys the benefit of a water car- riage from Sowerby -bridge, in its vicinity, along the Galder, to Hull : the Act of Parliament for which navigation was obtained in 1757. Its communications by water will be much extended by the Rochdale canal, connecting the Calder at Sowerby-bridge with the Duke of Bridge- water's canal at Manchester. Coals are found in various parts of its neighbourhood, as is excel- lent Avhite freestone, in great abundance : this freestone is cut intp very large flags, which bear a fine polish, and are sent, by water carriage, to pave the streets of London, and for several other uses in the south of Eniijland. '&' Return to Bradford, and from thence pro« ceed to Skipton, by way of Bingley, and Keigh- ley, twenty miles. — From Bradford to Bingley, seven miles : the road bad ; face of the country D 26 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR billy, and a whitish clayey soil prevails. The country, after leaving Bradford, has a naked ap- pearance. Manufactures continue ; and the po- pulation great and increasing. — Bing-ley is a large village on the banks of the river Air, and is visited by the Leeds and Liverpool canal. A very pleasant and fertile valley here commences, and extends, with the river, to Keighley, about three miles. The soil a strong loam, and well adapted for the production- of wheat, though lit- tle of that grain is cultivated. The husbandry is, in general, wretched. A great number of trees and pieces of woodland in this valley : the fields are small, and hedges neat. Fine white flags are got so plentifully in this district, that even footpaths through corn fields are paved therewith. Heathy-topped hills, with rocky fronts, now hover over the vale. — Keighley is a small market-town, near which is a large cot- ton manufactory. The canal and river Aii pass by this town. From lience to Skipton (ten miles) the road leads along a winding vale about lialf a mile broad ; and accompanies the Leeds and Liverpool canal the greatest part of the way. The surface of the country is tather uneven, and the general appearance somewhat barren. The houses Look old, and are more thinly scattered — an indication of our departure from the manu- fiicturing districts. GUIDE TO THE LAKES. ST Sk-IPTon is a small market-town, containing nearly 3000 inhabitants. The streets are rather narrow, but buildings good. No manufacture, except a few cotton works at a small distance.— Mountains appear at various distances on every side. — The Leeds and Liverpool canal touches this town. — The parishes in this district are ex- tensive, and the churches have generally large square towers. We continue our route towards Settle, by way of Gargrave, till we reach the village of Co- niston, seven miles. There a road turns to the left, through a thinly inliabited grazing country, to Colne, on the edge of Lancashire ; and another leaves the main road on the right, to Malhara, by way of Kirkby. During the first four miles from Skipton we travel through a beautiful, level, and fertile couiitiy ; the soil is a pretty strong loam, and mostly in pasture : the road crosses tbe canal twice. — From Coniston to Settle the soil is generally more heavy and cold, the sur- face of the country hilly, and mostly divided in- to i)retty large grazing farms. The vale of the Ribble, which the road soon enters, is, upon the whole, not unpleasant. If we take a view of the country from Coniston to Colne (about ten miles) we shall find a fine rural grazing country ; farms and fields very large, and the surface hilly. Se- veral seats, parks, and pleasure grounds appear D 2 S8 A DESCRIPTIVfe TOtrn ; OR at various distances from the road, as do a great number of trees, particularly ash and sycamore, not only in hedge-rows, but in small collections. Afterwards the manufacturing of cotton com- mences, and the clack of the loom is perpetually heard : new buildings have been erected, and the old ones converted into weaving shops. This scene increases as we approach Colne. In short, the cotton manufacture, like the flowing of the tide, seems creeping into this part of Yorkshire •with irresistible force. The road very crooked, often bad ; and, from the number of cross-roads, sometimes difficult to find. The canal Crosses the road different times, and is frequently seen winding along the valley : it perforates a rising ground in an arched tunnel for near one mile. — Buildings in this district are good. Freestone is got in great quantities towards Colne. Distant high mountains appear on every side, and some black heathy-topped moors approach the road on the Lancashire borders ; while other hills are in- closed, and cultivated almost to their summits. From Coniston it will be convenient to pro- ceed eastwards, in order to view the caves, and other natural curiosities, in tlie neighbourhood of Malham ; from whence we may go northwards, "by way of Settle and Ingleton, and visit the sur- prising works of Nature in their neighbour- hood. GUIDE TO THE LAKES. ^ The distance from Coniston to Malham is about six miles, along a pleasant valley, washed by the river Air. High irregular grounds ap~ pear on each side, the declivities of which, as well as the valley below, are interspersed with thinly-scattered farm-houses, large pasture fields, well wooded, and some regular-built villages. This is wholly an agricultural country, but grass is much more attended to than corn. The cattle are excellent, being the best breeds of the Lan- cashire long-horned sort. The sheep are horned, white-faced, fine-wooled, and pretty large, some- what resembling the Dorsetshire breed : they are rather peculiar to this district, and other hills in these parts of Yorkshire ; and are esteemed a profitable sort. The roads are generally bad, and little frequented, as they principally lead in- to the mountainous parts of this county, among the sequestered dales inhabited only by farmers and shepherds. Malham <;provincially called Maum) is a small but pretty well-built village, situated at the head of the vale (which is here contracted) near the source of the river Air, with high moun- tains, and rising grounds on every side. Happening to arrive at Malham during the fair, we were unfortunate in not being able to pro- cure tolerable accommodations at the inn, whicfe D 3 so A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR was SO fully occupied with farmers and dealers in cattle, that it was with the greatest difficulty that either a seat near the fire, or any comfortable refreshment, could be procured. — Cattle and sheep of excellent sorts, and in great numbers, were exposed to sale in the village by a set of jolly, healthy-looking farmers. On the after- noon, as soon as the cattle and sheep are disposed of, the old people return homewards : when the young of both sexes, from all the neighbouring dales, come to Malhara, and spend the evening !n dancing to the musx of a village minstrel. — A little stall, placed among the mud, with a little hardware, and a few baubles thereon, attended by an old man, and surrounded with a gaping crowd of wondering rustic boys, formed tlie only signs of traffic (sheep and cattle excepted) observable at this rural fair. — The perpetual clack of tongues, and the frequent repetition of *^ Not a fm thing less^^'' " Not one halfpenny morey^ continually struck the ear, at the same time being almost suf- focated with the fumes of tobacco and punch is- suing from every quarter. We soon became disgusted with our inn (which, at any other time, would, perhaps, affiard the traveller very com- fortable accommodations) and procured a guide as soon as possible to shew us the curiosities in the vicinity. Malham tarn is a cir€u}ar-formed lake, of I GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 31 about a mile in diameter, and remarkably situa- ted on a high moor at a little distance from the village. The surrounding objects form no very iuteresting scene, but the lake itself is of fine clear water, and contains trout in abundance, and of very great weight. Mr. Leicester, the proprietor of this water, is very strict in the pre- servation of the fish. The river Air takes its rise in this lake ; but does not proceed far be- fore it descends through a subterraneous passage, and again appears issuing from the foot of a rock of immense height, called Malham Cove. Du- ring heavy rains this subterraneous passage is too confined to admit the necessary discharge of water, the remainder of which makes its way along the surface till it reaches the top of the rock, and then tumbles down, in a majestic cas- cade, with a fall of about 60 yards. Malham Cove is a perpendicular lime- stone rock of 288 feet high, whose front wears the grizzly tint of age. Near i'ts top are two shelves^ one above the other, covered with a carpet of grass, and a few shrubs, which take root in the crevices. On these frightful ledges, which would seem almost sufficient to make a goat tremble, we are told, the nymphs and swains of the village, and adjoining dales, frequently sit and amuse themselves during part of a fine Sun- day ftfternoon, without the least accident having 39 A DESCRIPTITE TOUR; OB ever happened in consequence : the danger in^ deed, thongh considerable, is not so great as.it appears to be from the bottom. This rock is chiefly remarkable for its perpendicular and very- extraordinary height, and its fine colour, which gives it the appearance of an old wall of prodigi- ous strength : it forms the base of a mountain of considerable elevation, whose feet and sides, par- ticularly towards the west, are fringed with shrubberies and brushwood. GoRDALE Scar is the principal object of most travellers who visit Malham. This extraor- dinary work of nature lies about a mile and a quarter south of the village : we proceed one mile along a good carriage road , with a deep dell on the right, to the bottom of which the wavi ig gxeen fields slope irregularly ; on the left is a ridge of hills which runs on, and, with a grim countenance, seems to turn across the direction of the road. We leave the road, turning to the left near a new farm-house, and follow the course of a small murmuring brook through some meagre fields, inclosed with stone walls ; while a mon- strous chasm in the dismal -looking mountains stares us in the face. The craggy ridges on each side rise to a terrific height, and approach each other ; while the desolate glen contracts in pro- portion, and, a little farther, seems totally shut up by a close embrace of these tnonsters. — The I GUIDE TO THE LAKBS. S3 brook rattling along its stony channel, brings a yellow substance along with it, which tinges all the pebbles with that colour, and even forms a thin coating over them. We now seem to ap- proach the end of our excursion ; the grey rocks on each hand, intermixed with small evergreen shrubs and verdant turf, ascend, stratum super stratum^ in a pretty regular sloping position, to the height of 300 or 400 feet perpendicular from the base. — Pursuing the dim path, and cautiously directing our steps over fragments of rocks to- wards a rent in the mountain immediately before us, with the brook on our left, we suddenly turn an acute angle of a perpendicular rock to the right, when a scene at once opens in full view, which excites the greatest astonishment. We perceive ourselves just entering the apparent ruins of a huge castle, whose walls are mostly en- tire to the height of about 120 feet. The gloomy mansion strikes us with horror ; and a lively fancy would readily place before us the massy form and surly looks of its ancient gigantic inha- bitants. What greatly adds to the sensations of fear and amazement, whiph every one must feel, in some degree, on his first entering herein, are the rushing cataracts at the farther end, and the hanging walls, particularly that on the right, which projects considerably over its base, and threatens Xo crush the trembling visitant, The 34: A DESCRIPTIVE tour; OR form of this chasm is somewhat elliptical, quite open at the north end ; but the south end, through which, the water pours, although partly- open, h sufficiently barred up by immense frag- ments of rocks so as to prevent all further pro- gress. It consists of two apartments, or areas ; the first is about 100 yards by 40 ; the other is inaccessible, and appears to be about 20 yards by 10 ; its area probably a pool of water. At the farther end, a stream issues from the top of the rock, and falling ^ or 10 yards at one leap, dis- appears in the upper apartment, till, reaching its confines, it again tumbles down in a broken slieet of foam into the greater area, and hurries down a rough channel to the river Air. The walls are black ; and, as before observed, project frightful- ly over their bases ; bushes of ivy and some small ash trees appear on the tops of these rocks, from the pores of whose horrid front large drops of water continually distil. No roof seems ever to have covered this gaping wonder of nature. Part of the rock^ovcr which the brook forms the latter cascade, is a soft, yellow, calcareous substance, and extremely porous : it wastes away continual- ly by the washing of the water, and adiiercs to the stones, occasioning the curious appearance before noticed. Our iruide related to us the fol- lowing dreadful accident, which occurred near tUe scene just described, not many months be- GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 35 fore our visit. — As two men traversed these wild mountains, they were benighted, and unfortunate- ly missing their way, they came to this horrid precipice, when one of Ihcm stepped over its brink, and instantly disappeared, without time to utter a syllable as a warning to his companion. The companion, however, alarmed and terriiied at the accident, d^red no longer to walk erect^ but creeping on his knees, and examining with his hands, he was so fortunate as at last to regain the road in safety. The body of the unhappy traveller, which had pitched on several rocky shelves in its fall, was found next morning lod- ged in a bush of ivy, more than half way down the dreadful precipice. We now proceed froui Malham to Settle, seven miles. The road (where it can be called such) leads Us over a wild hilly country, and ex- tensive tracts of moors. — Ascending a steep hill from Malham, we come upon a rocky common, and presently lose almost every vestige of a path. — Here are several pits, from which calamine (a kind of fossil bituminous earth) is dug, close to the road. We continue to traverse a high eleva- ted country, till at length we descend rapidly to Settle, in the vale of the Ribble. Excepting the moors, we see little besides large grazing farms, with stone walls dividing the fields. — It is whol- ly a limestone soil, the rocks of which stone ar^ 36 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OIL peeping up above the surfocc very frequently, and in some places Iiang upon the sides of the hills in awful precipices. The road is no where good, and some of it almost impassable, notwith- standing the abundance of excellent materials every where at hand : but its being not much fre- quented is probably the reason that so little la- bour and care are bestowed upon it. On the moors, the traveller has no other guide than some distant mountain to direct his steps, of which he is deprived in misty weather, which is frequent in this country. — When we crossed this moun*^ tainous pass, a thick mist surrounded us in dark- ness, and would certainly have caused us to devi- ate from the right path, had not the tracks of a cart, which had passed that morning from Settle to the fair at Malliam, acted as a guide, and con^ ducted us in safety. This road between Settle and Malham is, by no means, to be recommended to strangers, except in clear weather ; and even then with every necessary direction and precau- tion : that by way of Long-Presto?), though to- lerably good, is a circuitous route of about fifteei^ miles. Settle is an inconsiderable market-town, containing about 900 inhabitants. It is ancient, and was once famous for its manufacture of, and trade in, leather and hides, which are now on the decline : a fair, however, is htill kept here, once I GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 37 n fortnight, for the sale of these articles, and also of fat cattle. Its situation, with respect to the neighbouring country, is low, and the vale be- fore it extensive and pleasant. It stands near the base of a white limestone rock, called Castlebar, ■which some travellers say resembles that of Gib- raltar, and is 300 feet above the level of the town. The inhabitants have lately been at the expence of cutting an easy winding path to the top of it, from whence tlicre is a fine prospect of all the vale below, and the long range of craggy hills on eacli hand, which shew a mixture of grey rock and luxuriant verdure. In cutting stones from this rock fragments of great magnitude have sometimes rolled down, breaking through the garden walls, which stand on a sloping ground at lite foot of the hill, forcing their way into the .street, and sometimes even damaging houses. This district enjoys a fine air, and plenty of excellent water. Land is generally applied to the purposes of grazing, to whicli the soil seems peculiarly adapted, being a fine hazel mould up- on a stratum of limestone. — On climbing- to the top of a high mountain near Settle, we found fat bullocks feeding on remarkably long, rich, and thick grass, which we thought the most singular instance of the luxuriance of mountain pastur- age. We were told that most of the neighbour- ing hills Jiave an equal propensity to the produc* £ SS A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; Olt tion of grass. From a want of trees (stone walls being universally the fences) the country has z naked appearance. The pleasant village of Giggleswick stands about a mile from Settle, on the road to- Tvards Ingleton : it was formerly a market- town, while Settle was only a hamlet, and it still con- tains the parish church to that place. — Giggles- wick now principally consists of a few genteel houses* Attermire Cave is a remarkable cavern, on the high moors, near two miles east from Settle. The approach to it is not without some danger, the only path lePcding along a ledge of a rocky precipice, wbich turns into the cave by an open- ing of about two yards by four. It tlien con- tinues to vary its dimensions for near 20 yards, where the roof drops at once from 12 yards high to 18 inches, and rises but little for 20 yards fur- ther, when it suddenly opens into a spacious apartment of about 15 yards high. This gloomy mansion contains numberless chinks and recesses, iluted pillars and hanging petrifactions. Some- times you may ascend several yards, and some- times descend a few paces. Frequently this sub- terraneous passage turns suddenly at right an • gles ; and then shuts close, so as scarcely to ad- mit of a person to creep along ; and afterwards I GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 39 enlarges again to a great extent. — About twenty yards within this cavern a well of fine water springs up, and issues out of its mouth.. At the farthest end a deep hole drops down with an ir- regular inclination, which may be descended a little way without much danger. A stone throwa down is heard for some time ^with a rumbling noise. In a field, near the town of Settle, we are told a noise is ?lways heard ^ like the distant clacking of a mill. No orifice in the ground, nor any external cause, appears : it is, however, supposed to be occasioned by a waterfall in one of those natural subterraneous perforations in the limestone so common in this rocky country. The mountains in this neighbourhood aflford many curious petrifactions. We proceed from hence to Ingleton, ten miles, along the turnpike road, which is the most eligible route for people unacquainted with the country. From Ingleton a good road conveys us directly to Chapel in the Dale, in the midst of those liatural curiosities we are supposed to be in quest of ; having Ingleborough and its singular caves on the right, and Whernside, with its ca- verns, and the famous Yordas Cave, on the left. Some travellers, however, prefer going up th« E 2 40 CR side of the Ribble, byway of Horton and the base of Pennygant, and crossing the mountains to Chapel in the Dale. By that latter track they meet with several things worth notice ; the first of which are two cascades — the one in the Ribble, near Stainforth, not far from the road, of about six or eight yards high ; and the other a little above that village, of more than double that height. — Dowgill Scar, in the vicinity of Horton, is a high precipice of limestone rocks, from the top of which a grand fall of water is precipitated in rainy weather, but on other occasions it is re- ceived by a subterraneous passage. The scene is heightened by a romantic rocky gallery on the north. — Hulpit and Huntpit Holes, on the decli- vities of Pennygant, about two miles from Hor- ton, are two awful orifices : the former looks like the ruins of an enormous Gothic castle, with th« roof fallen in, and the walls left standing ; the latter resembles a deep funnel, and its approach is dangerous. Horton beck runs through the one of these pits, and Bransil beck through the other : each of these brooks passes under ground forabout a mile ; Horton beck emerging again at Dowgill Scar, and Bransil beck at Bransil-head. But what is most extraordinary, these subterraneous brooks cross each other in the bowels of the earth without mixing their waters, the bed of the one being on a stratum above the other ; which cir* GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 41 cumsiance, was discovered by the muddy water after a sheep washing going down the one pass- age, wliile the husks of oats were sent down the other.— Penny gant is a towering and elegant mountain standing pre-eminent among several lesser fells. In our proposed route from Settle, we leave Giggleswick on the left, and soon have a piece of shallow water on one side, and a high ridge of prominent limestone rocks on the other. The hoary fronts of these precipices are softened to- wards the south with a covering of trees, which spread considerably up their sides ; but after- wards, for upwards of a mile, the grizzly naked rock increases in height and grandeur, till its top is near 200 feet perpendicular upon the large sloping base. — Ivy and yew spring out of its cre- vices : the former creeps up and ornaments its aged brows with continual verdure, while the nodding plumes of the latter add still more beaU" ty to the scene. This rock accompanies the road for some miles, like an immense wall, and con- tains different chasms which are seen from thence — one of these exactly resembles a large gateway, but does not penetrate above seven or eight yards into the rock : in another, called Kalecow Hole, the opening extends a considerable way, but so low and narrow, that it is not explored without some difficulty. E S i2 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR Under the highest part of this scar, abont two miles from Settle, and close by the road, is that remarkable ebbing and flowing, or rather re- ciprocating well, which is deservedly noticed by all travellers who pass that way. A stone trough, of about a yard square, is placed over the spring, "with openings at different heights to admit tlie issuing of the water at different times. Its reci- procations seem very irregular, and are said al- most to cease in times of very great rains or long continued droughts. Sometimes it wdll rise and fall near a foot in this reservoir every ten or fif- teen minutes. In October 1797, about one o'clock P. M. this singular well rose and fell twice in ten minutes, but very irregularly. Just after out ar- rival the water began to fall, and in three minutes it fell five inches ; it then continued stationary for about half a minute, and afterwards rose al- most to the saiTie height in less than one minute, boiling up violently in different places, and throwing out a quantity of sand. It afterwards fell one inch and a half, and then only rose an inch. The boiling, or emission of water from the ground, seems to stop almost instantly, and to resume its operations, when it begins to flow again, with equal abruptness. Mr. John Swainston, of Kendal, vi- sited the well in 1796, and took the following note : GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 4.3 ^' GiGGLESWICK WELL,7th April, \^\P, M, — Settled 11 inches in about 4 minutes ; it flow ed to the same height in 2 minutes. Next time did not go so low by 2 inches. When at low ebb it begins to rise immediately. There seemed no interval between its low ebb and rising, nor* be- twixt i(s being fall and beginning to ebb again." This singular phenomenon is difficult to ac- count for ; nor has it ever yet been satisfactorily done. That conjecture, however, which suppo- ses it to be occasioned by a natural syphon in the bowels of the earth, though liable to some objec- tions, seems the most plausible : Drunken Bar^ ndhy^ who wrote his Itinerary upwards of a hun- dred and fifty years ago, mentions this well, and observed that rt puzzled the learned of his age ; '* Near to the way, as a traveller goes, A fine fresh spring both ebbs and flows ; Neither know the learn'd that travel What procures it, salt or gravel." We pursue our journey, and find the road pretty good. The soil is, in general, a brown gravelly loam. The vale is inclosed by high hills on each side, but of unequal breadths, from one to four miles, and consists of irregular sv/ells. The farms are small, and fields divided with stone walls. , Little corn is produced, as the farmers 44 A DESCRIPTIVE tour; OIL place their chief dependence on their grass lands ; indeed they are wretched cultivators of arable land. Sowing artificial grasses is a pro- cess in husbandry unknown in this district, of which the following circumstance fully convin- ced us. In travelling this road we met with a respectable-looking farmer, who accompanied us for several miles : the conversation turned chief- ly on the state of agriculture, and, among other subjects, that of artificial grasses being mentioned,^ he remarked, that no such thing was practised here, but that he had heard of grass seeds being sown in some parts of the countjy ; and he wish- ed to know what sorts would best answer his pur- pose, and Avliere to procure them, as he had half an acre of prawd* potatoe ground, which he meant 'to sow with barley, but its being rich, and unusually clean from old grass roots, he feared it would be at least two years before a sufficient quantity of natural grass would appear. The village of Clapiiam, through which the road leads, is well built ; as, indeed, are most of the houses in this district. Several small pleasant seats enliven the country. The round- topt mountain Ingleborough soon becomes a pro- minent object, rearing its majestic head as we ap- proach Ingleton, which is situated at the extre- * Praivd, or Proud— extremely rlcli. €tJlDE TO THE LAKES. 45 Tniity of its huge base, though at least three miles and a half from its summit. Ingleton is a large well-built village, and affords tolerable inns, with good accommodationSj particularly at the Bay Horse. A cotton mill has lately been erected in this village. Having procured a proper guide, we now make an excursion to the caves, &c. in this neighbourhood. On our last visit to this place, we found an excellent guide in William Wil- son, of Ingleton, an old soldier, who is furnished with the necessary apparatus of a lanthorn, long candlestick, &c. for the purpose, and who, without any knowledge of botany but merely from having attended botanists, can point out some rare and curious plants. This veteran joins an easy familiarity in relating the history of each place we visit, with due respect and atten- tion towards those he conducts. An account of his own adventures fills up the vacant intervals of time. Much will depend on the weather and time of the day in determining which place ought to be first visited ; an intelligent guide - will, however, readily decide. The route we took, which we shall now point out, is most commonly adopted. 16 ox Leaving Ingleton on the north, we crossf the bridge, and, if on horseback, go about by Thornton ; but, if on foot, turn over a stile to the right, and proceed along a footpath near the brook called Doe beck. We presently come up- on Thornton Scar, a tremendous cliff, partly clo- thed with wood, and partly exhibiting the bare lock. This scar is about 100 yards high, and runs up a considerable way, varying its elevation, into the mountains, along with one not quite so perpendicular on the other side. These unite sO closely at the bottom, that the frightful chasm scarcely leaves room for the hurrying brook to escape by a precipitate flight over a succession of small cascades. Here is a stratum of that species of rock of which the blue slate is formed, and from which great quantities are got. Following the course of this romantic dell a little way, along a dim path on the borders of the green hills, we gain tlie view of Thornton Force, a curious fall of water, which appears more grand on a nearer approach. This fine cascade is formed by the Doe, which issues out of Kingsdale ; it partly rushes from an aperture of the rock, having en- tered it 50 or 60 yards above, and falls at one leap near 30 yards ; and partly from the top of a rocky ledge SO yards high, over half of which it falls in one unbroken sheet of 4 yards wide, and then tumbles over a buying rock into a deep II CUIDE TO THE LAKES. 4^ black pool below. A spray, like a mist, rises from this cataract, which continually sprinkles the ground for several yards around. The tops and sides of the rocks are^ beautifully fringed with ivy and other shrubs. They are a few yards higher than the cascade ; and the whole, viewed from the bason below, forms a fine pic- ture, leaving little for the imagination of the ar- tist to supply. Here our guide, with a degree of vanity, observed that he once had the honour of walking, arm inarm, with a lady on the rocks immediately above the cascade, while a gentle- man, her husband, sat by the pool below draw- ing a view of the waterfall, and included them in the picture. TJie gentleman, however, insisted that he should wear his usual accoutrements, viz. a lanthoni slung over his shoulder, a long stick in his hand, and a short tobacco-pipe in his mouth, with its head inverted. This rock is limestone upon a layer of blue slate. — Pursuing the course of the brook for about 200 yards fur- ther, we reach Raven-ree, a rocky promontory 40 yards high, and spotted with ivy, yew, and other evergreen slirubs. — Ascending the moun- tains a little further, we soon enter Kingsdale, lUiich is a remarkably level, and, considering its high elevation, a fertile valley, about a mile in length,, and 300 yards broad ; with the mountaia Gregroof on tke north ^ WheruBide, one of the 48 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR highest mountains in England, on the south-east; and a high ridge extending from thence on the south. Towards the head of this secluded vale, under the northern skirts of a mountain, stands a solitary farm-house, called Breadagarth, sur- rounded with a few meagre-looking fields, while all the surrounding country has the appearance of a wild unfrequented desert ; with, here and there, two or three sheep peeping from among the rocks. The limestone here assumes the most fantastic appearance, particularly on Greg-roof, where the mountain seems, at some time, to have undergone a sort of anatomical preparation ; when the coating of earth or muscular parts have been taken away, and the rocky bones of this huge monster left to the inspection of the na- turalist and philosopher. Seven tiers of perpen- dicular naked rocks, with sloping intervals (ex- hibiting scanty portions of earth) one above ano- ther, like the ribs of a skeleton, run along the sides of this mountain ; but, contrary to the di- rection of ribs in animal nature, they run paral- lel to the spine.— We pursue our journey along the north side of tlie vale, with the windinsr brook on the right, till the path leads us close by Kelhead, where the rivulet emerges from a sub- terri^neous - passage, which it enters at Yordas Cave. This second source of the brook is a deep circular bason, which, our guide informed us. GUIDE Tb THE. LAKES. 49 lately proved fatal to an unfortunate tailor, "who having been working at Bredagarth, and return- ing home in the night, had stepped half a yard out of his road, as he passed Keldhead, and tum- bled about 15 yards down a sloping height into the pool below, where he was found drowned the next day. We warily and slowly pursued our direct route, while our guide went across the vale to Breadagarth to procure a light, and his large candlestick, which he always leaves there to be in readiness, Tlie road before us, though little frequented, is the only one in or near this valley : it crosses the hills, on the north side of Whern* side, into the pleasant vale of Dentdale. Having travelled about four miles from Ingleton, we find ourselves at Yordas Cave, one of the principal objects of this excursion. It is situated near the east end of the vale, under the mountain Greg-roof, and to which we turn a lit- tle out of the road, on the left, over a carpet of bent grass, interspersed with fragments of grey rock. — The cave does not appear till we ger~^~ through some sheep-folds, and are within a fevr yards of its entrance, which is rather alarming ; for we no sooner descend gently through a rude arched opening, four yards by seven, like the ^ gateway of some ancient castle, than we see atones of enormous weight pending from the roof, 50 A DESCIIIPTIVE •TOUR } OR apparently loose, and ready to fall down upon our heads. From these surprising objects our at- tention is directed to tlie solemn and gloomy mansions which we now enter, when tlie noise of a waterfall is heard at a distance. The roof rises to a height concealed in darkness, and large drops distilling therefrom, fall among the stones at the bottom with a solemn sound : this, added to the flowing of an invisible stream, heard just before us, and the slipperiness of the stones under our feety rouses our apprehensions for personal safety, and we stop short. — Our guide now places himself upon the fragments of a rock, and strikes up his lights, consisting of six or eight candles, put into as many holes of a stick, with which, by the help of a long pole fixed therein, he can il- luminate a considerable space. His tobacco- pipe, being prepared and lighted, is held in his mouth, with his flambeau in one hand, and a staff in the other, the cock of his hat being pla- ced before, he gives us the signal of a march by, " Now come along." — Though under the con- duct of such an experienced leader, and assured that the danger is merely imaginary, we journey ©n with cautious steps. The cave opens into an apartment so spacious and extensive, that, with all the blaze of our elevated candles, we could scarcely see either its roof or its walls. On turn- ing to the right, we immediately lose sight of I GUIDE to THfi'XAKES. ^1 day ; the noise of the cataract increases, and we soon find ourselves on the brink of a subterraneous rivulet. — No cave in romance, no den of lions, giants or serpents^ nor any haunts of ghosts or fairies, were ever described more frightfully, gloomy and dismal, than this now before us. — Af- ter passing the brook, and cautiously proceeding SO or 40 yards further, we are under the necessity of climbing over a rugged heap of huge rocks, which had, some time or other, fallen from the roof or sides of the cave ; but now are incrusted over with a smooth calcareous substance. Being at length more habituated to darkness, our lights had a better effect ; the high smooth roof and walls are seen distinctly, as well as the curious X^etrifactions hanging therefrom. On the right we observed, among several other curiously in- crusted figures, a projecting one, wdiich our guide called the Bishop's Throne, from its great resemblance to that appendage of a cathedral ; on the other side, a seemingly emblematical mo- nument springs from the wall, about three yards above the floor, with various uncouth represen- tations, of which that of a lion's head is the most conspicuous. Another confused mass of incrust- ed matter bears some resemblance to a large or- gan. — We now enter a narrow pass of five or six yards, where the roof is supported by seven pillars : there is only room for one person in F 2 52 A DESCniPTlVE TOUK ; OR breadth ; but the height is very considerable. The internal breok pushes along this crevice, which renders it the most difficult part of our subterraneous excursion, and which, after great rains, effectually excludes a passage. The slip- periness of the stones had nearly occasioned an unpleasant event during our visit to this cave -; our guide, with his collection of luminaries, tumbled into the brook, and had nearly left us in darkness ; but when he fell, we were more parti- cularly afraid lest he should drop into some deep chasm of the rock, which might have proved fa- tal. However, he arose without receiving much injury ; and, resuming our journey, we soon reached the cascade which we had heard for some time at a distance : it issues from an open- ing in the rock, and falls about four or five yards into a circular apartment, roofed with a fine dome. This apartment some visitants have na- med the Chapter-house. — The broad sheet of wa- ter, the spray arising from the fall, and the beau- tiful petrifactions, all illuminated with the light of the candles, produce effects in this natural edi- fice which the puny efforts of art may attempt to imitate, but in vain. Near the Chapter-house, there is an opening, through which a person may creep, and arrive at other large apartments ; but we did not attempt the experiment. The colon- nade affords a number of curious recesses ; its CtJIDE TO TH£ LAKES, 53 pillars are broad, extremely thin, rudely indent- ed, and perforated in several places. On our re- turn, we could discern the nature and dimensions of this spacious cavern more distinctly. Its walls are a sort of black marble, the roof pretty smooth, and beautifully veined with red and white ; the floor is strewed with stones and pieces of rock. The whole length of this singular cavern is be- tween 50 and 60 yards ; its breadth 13 yards ; and height 47 feet. — On entering this cave its area enlarges every way, and we reach the oppo- site wall, after walking about 23 yards ; the prin- pal part, just described, lies to the right ; but it extends also on the other hand, and unfolds some wonderful closets, called Yordas Bedchamber, Yordas Oven, &c. Here also the brook buries itself still deeper, and proceeds under ground to Keldhead, before mentioned. This brook rises in the mountains above Yordas, and falls in among the rocks just before it reaches the cave. AVe leave the dark excavations with re- doubled sentiments of gratitude towards the Al- mighty, for the blessings he affords us in the light of the sun, which, after being buried for some time in these murky regions,, we now enjoy with still greater pleasure. Our guide seriously remarked to us, that this place had formerly been the residence of » 54r A DESCRIPTIVE tour; OR giant called Yordas ; from which circumstance be accounts for its name. The history of this cave records two remarkable facts. — About half a century ago, a lunatic escaped from his friends at or near Ingleton, and lived here upwards of a week in the winter season, having previously provided himself with cheese and other provi- sions. Snow being on the ground he was sagaci- ous enough to pull the heels off his shoes, and set them on inverted at the toes, to prevent being traced. Since that time, a poor woman, big with child, travelling alone through this inhospitable vale, to Dentdale, was taken in labour, and found dead in this cave. On the upper side of Yordas Cave is aquar- jy of black marble, from which elegant monu- ments, chimney-pieces, slabs, and other orna- ments, are dug. Near a mile to the north-west of Yordas, upon the same mountain, but considerably higher, is Gingling Cave, situated on a green plain, by the side of a brook, looking down in- to the vale. This natural orifice is of a circular shape ; narrow at the top, but probably dilating its dimensions below to a great extent. Stones thrown down are heard gingling along, in differ- ent tones, from one tier of rocks to another • ' sometimes there are intervals of isilence 5 then GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 55 deeper and more distant sounds again strike the ear, till they are cither out of the reach of our hearing, or are plunged in some pool of water at the bottom. It is dangerous to approach the margin of this abyss ; and animals seem to dis- cover the same fearful trepidations, on hearing stones tumbling down, which they feel during the shock of an earthquake. No one has hither- to been hardy enough to descend into this vast hiatus by the means of ropes, for the purpose of making subterraneous discoveries. Some other openings of the same kind, but of inferior size, are found in this mountain. Returning to Kingsdale, we cross ihe val- ley near the farm cottage, and proceed about three miles over the mountain, to Chapel in the Dale, but without any path, or other mark to direct our steps, except the top of Ingleborough and other prominences. The moors are partly covered with peat-moss, and partly with lime- stone rock, so curiously disposed, that it seems as if it had been originally poured upon it in a liquid state, spread itself into large plains, and afterwards opened and cracked into the most whimsical forms. Sometimes we meet with cir- cular funnel-like holes, smooth and regular. Large stones, quite detached, are often observed lying, as if placed by art, on the rocky plain, 56 A DESCRIPTIVE TOTTR J OR and might be tumbled about thereon, did not their immense weight render it difficult for any contri- vance of art to move them. — Ingleborough, with his steep rocky sides and hoary front, boldly rears his round highly-elevated head in full view before us, while Whernside lies on the left : though nearly as high as Ingleborough. the far-extended base of this surly mountain has a much more humble appearance than his frowning neighbour. The long naked vale of Chapel le Dale lies at our feet, like a green strip of silk connecting two webs of the coarsest cloth. — We presently descend the hill, winding our way among some small straggling farms and humble cottages. The little fields are separated with stone walls, with sometimes an occasional tree, which greatly enlivens the scene. On our approach to a noisy brook,, the guide announces our arrival near Weathercote Cave, one of the most singular and surprising ca» taracts in the island of Great Britain. In visit- ing this cave, it is necessary to make some appli- cation to the farmer in whose grounds it is situ- ated, not far from the farm-house, and who, with a good-natured affability, attended our party to the door of the cave, which he unlocked, and modestly waited without till we had satisfied our euriosity. GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 57 Weathercote Cave is seated in a rather low field, where no such phenomenon is expect- ed, and where no rude strokes of nature indicate any thing extraordinary. The green turf is only interrupted by some stone walls bordering a j^rove of small trees and shrubs, from whence is- sues the deep-toned hollow soundof a tremendous cataract, informing us, in very intelligible lan- guage, where the cave is to be found. The door is no sooner thrown open, than we see, through a grotesque arch of rugged rocks, a large body of water rushing from a square hole, and dashing down, among the rocks at the bottom of a vast craggy bason, about 60 feet perpendicular, with a roar that astonishes the most intrepid. This furious river, as if ashamed of exposing its streams to the open day, no sooner makes this frightful leap, than, in a moment, it disappears : when running under ground for about a mile, it again shews itself on the surface, in a more calra and peaceful state. From the gate at the entrance, we descend about fifteen yards, along a rocky steep. A little to the right, there is a cavity of about twenty yards in length , with a low roof, in which there is a petrifying spring, and a natural seat and table, where the philosopher, the re- cluse, or the poet, may study without interrup- tion. These curiosities would be peculiarly en- jgaging, where they placed in any other situation^ ^ A DESCIlIPTlTE T6tJB, ; OR but here our whole attention is engrossed by the uniform and terrible dashing of the cascade be- fore us. — Resuming our journey down this sin- gular cave, and crawling from rock to rock for about fifteen yards, we find ourselves under the natural arch. A descent of about thirty jards further, down a similar path, conveys us to the margin of the foaming pool, where, if possible, our amazement is increased. The high fall of such a body of water, raises a spray which fills the cave Avith watery particles, like mist ; a white foam boils in llie most turbulent manner at the bottom, and the violent concussion seems to shake the very foundations of the rock. From ten to twelve o'clock in the forenoon, when the sun shines, a beautiful rainbow is generated in this cave ; which, however, is a sight we did not en- joy. — On the left, a small quantity of water comes dashing down an opening, as if poured down the chimney of an old ruinous building. — The rocky walls of this cave, which are almost perpendicu- lar, and on the north side upwards of an hun- dred feet high, are partly covered with a black moss. Tlie lowest and largest part, and where the water falls, is- somewhat circular, and quite open at the top. — One of the most striking fea- tures of this surprising scene, is a stone of an enormous magnitude, suspended over the hole iiom whence the water issues by its opposite an* aUIDE TO THE LAKES, 5^ glcs touching the sides of a crevice. This stone has certainly remained in its present situation for ages, and, however it may threaten the astonish- ed spectator, with impending danger, may proba- bly continue till tlie end of time. — During long- continued, heavy rains, this gaping wonder of Nature is sometimes unable to contain the water received into its rocky jaws, when it discharges itself copiously at its mouth. This, however, seldom happens ; for though frequently nearly full, yet, before it overflows, a large stream bursts forth, and issues from the well near Wea- thercote-house. — At the bottom there is a crevice, through which, when the water is low, a person may descend, and accompany the river a consi- derable distance, till a deep pool precludes any further advances. It is reported, that the owner of this cave, returning from an exploratory ram- ble in this part of his premises, mistook the road, and went a little way up the channel of another subterraneous river, which meets this directly underneath the cascade ; but remarking that the noise of the cataract decreased, he perceived his error, and returned. — At some distance there is another narrow passage, along which a person may crawl to where the cascade issues, and after- wards stand and walk erect ; but no one has ever yet been hardy enough to explore this opening much further,— A rug.^ed winding path leads t© 60 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUIl ; Oil the top of a grotesque arch of solid limestone, fringed with trees and shrubs, irom whence the whole scene appears in a new and interesting point of view. — After the sight of this great natural curiositvj no one will think the trifling gratuity of a shilling to the farmer ill bestowed, in com- pliance with the request expressed upon a board placed over the door of the cave. Proceeding about one hundred and twen- ty yards down this vale, we arrive at Ginglepot, a natural chasm in the rock, about twenty-three yards long, three broad, and ten deep ; though at the south end it seems to sink lower, from whence a passage extends to an unknown length. A gingling noise is heard therein, from the trick- ling of subterraneous water ; and wlien a stone is thrown down, it produces hollow tickling sounds as it tumbles along from north to south. This oblong pit is filled with water during floods, which then pours out over its edges. Some trees and shrubs are growing near it ; and, from the general appearance of the surrounding surface, such a curiosity is by no means expected. We continue our tour down tjiis glen, pio- cceding witli caution, lest one false step, on this deceitful ground, should plunge us into some un- known abyss.— Several curious petrifactions aj'o GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 61 found among the gravel, and in the fissures of the rocks ; such as sliells, fish bones, &c. &c. also small screw-like cylinders ; all of which, Mr. Walker observes, effervesce with acids, and creep in a plate filled with vinegar, like those found near Carrickfergus, in Ireland, by the dis- charge of fixed air. About one hundred yards below Gingle- pot an ash tree shoots forth its aged branches from the fissures of the rock, and forms an odd concretion with the stones and petrified shells ; fragments of rocks, inclosing petrifactions, are peeping from the tree, and just losing sight of day under the embraces of its bark. Continuing our route alittle further down, we arrive at Hurtlcpot, a circular funnel-lik© hole, with a deep pit of black water at the bot- tom, which gives the place an awful aspect : its gloominess is considerably heightened by the number of trees, with their pendent branches, springing from its sides ; while a dark-coloured moss covers the surrounding rocks. Nothing ap- pears which indicates our approach to such an awful chasm, nor are we aware of reaching it till just on its brink. A steep clayey bank afforded us a slippery passage to the margin of the pool : which, however, we should by no means have ventured to descend, had not otir guide led the Q 62 A DESCRIPTIVE TQUH ; OH way, and conviaced us that the road was pa«- sable^ but difhcult, as neither stone ndr tree is within our grasp. The jock on the opposite side is nearly perpendicular, and about thirty yards high, and much elevated on eadb side. This black pool of still w ater contains about one hundred square yards ^ and., at the opposite cor- ner, extends under the pendent rocks to an Un- known length, its depth is not yet discovered ; but, if we may judge from the rising of bubbles after throwing in a stone, it must be very consi- derable indeed. The awful silence is occasion- ally broken by large drops distilling from the rocks into tlie water 5 which, as well as the stones thrown in^ and every word we utter causes a dismal hollow sound .; the glutting of the 'water also, against the dark recesses under the edges of the rock^ occasions a frightful noise, which in- ^luces some o^f the neighbouring people to ima- g^ine that the place is haunted with ghosts. A remarkable circumstance took place about thirty years ago, which proves that the water of Hurtlepot is immediately connected with that of Weathercote cave :— A woman lost her bonnet in Weathercote cave, which disappeared among the rocks, and afterwards was found in Hurtle- pot ; consequently a subterraneous passage, to^ gether witji the brook^ leads from the former to I GtriDE TO THE LAKES. 5.f the latter. This channel also probably visits Ginglepot, as, during heavy rains, the water rises in each of them at the same time ; but the two lowest more frequently overflow. HuRTLEPOT is not without its finny inha-* bitants, large black trouts being often caught therein by the neighboilring people. Botanists also find some rare and curious plants here^ among the great variety of those wliich seem to delight in occupying the sides of this murky dun-* geon. On our return from this gloomy cave.of des« pondency 5 our guide, from the slipperiness of the clayey path, again embraced ihe earth, and, sli- ding down, had almost reached the margin of the black abyss before he could recover himself. This accident, however, alarming us, we crawl< ed more cautiously on our hands and knees, and hy this means gained the top in safety. Leaving Hurtlepot, we soon arrived at the chapel, a plain neat little edifice ; and a quarter of a mile further westward is the place where the subterraneous river Greta,- or Wease (whick shews itself at Weathercote,. &c.) first takes its permanent course above ground : it gushes out ©f three large fountains, at a small distance from tach other, and runs along this vale in a narrow ^> 2 64 A i>Esciiif»TiVE Toun ; on glen, about three miles, to Iiiglcton, forming a great variety of high cascades. Chapel in the Dale is a long narrow val- ley, extending eastwards from near Ingleton up- wards of four miles, and from a quarter to half a Biile broad. Only a single patch of corn was observed in this vale, the land being generally appropriated to meadow and pasture. Farm- buildings are good ; and stone walls divide the ;pTetty verdant fields. The rocky sides of Ingle- borough, in some places fringed with brushwood, xise pretty rapidly from hence on the south ; and a high limestone ridge, extending from Whern^ side, elevates its rough and craggy front on the north. From Ingleton there is a good carriage road along this dale, which leads over the moun- tain Cam to Askrigg and Richmond. Hurtle- pot, Ginglepot, and Weathercote caves, are at a small distance to the north from this road, and in this succession may be conveniently visited by travellers from Ingleton. In a field about a mile above that village, sixty yards south of the road, is a large stone, six feet high and eight yards round, evidently placed in its present situation by art : it rests on three points upon the back of another stone just peeping out of the ground; and, notwithstanding its great bulk and weight, the places of contact are so angular that scarcely a square inch of its superfices is hid from the eve. CfUtDE TO THE LAKES. 65» We now tarn to the pursuit of some other natural curiosities on the base of Ingleborough, and proceeding along the road, met with Douk Cave on the right, almost opposite to Hurtlepot. This cave somewhat resembles Weathercote, but much inferior in grandeur, neither being so deep, nor the cascade so high ; the fall of water about five or six yards, which, like Weather- cote, sinks among the rocks at the bottom. The subterraneous passage from whence it issues is said to be curious ; but the quantity of water is so great as seldom to admit visitants without their being much wet and bedaubed with dirt, which takes away the pleasure of the excursion. This passage has been explored upwards of 100 yards. — At about half that distance, there is a chaSm, 13 yards deep from the surface, through which day-light appears. A ladder is necessary ta climb up. We are now in a convenient situation for ascending to the top of Ingleborough, being on its base, and greatly elevated above all the west- ern country. Its sides are very steep and rocky, and contain several pits ; but, with a little time and labour, may be ascended without danger. At the time we visited these curiosities, the wea- ther was exceedingly hazy, and a thick fog co- Yering the top of the mountaui preyeutecl tts G 3 6G A DESCRIPTIVE Toua; OR from Laving the pleasure of that excursioH. The perpendicular height of this mountain above the level of the sea, as taken by a neighbouring country gentleman, is S987 feet. The view from its top is described as very extensive, com- prehending all the country, for 40, 50, and 60 miles distance, from tJie south-west to the north- •west ; and distinguishing its roads, rivers, towns, Tillages, seats, hills and dales, capes and bays, as stretched on a map under the eye of the observer. To the north-west the view is shut up by the rug- ged hills of Lancashire, Westmorland, and Cum- berland.- Westwards the Irisli Sea forms the ho- rizon, except where the Isles of Man and Angle - sea intervene ; and to the south-west, after tracing the Lancashire coast, the blue mountains of Wales strike the eye as the farthest terrestrial object. Turning to the east and north, the pros- pect is soon shut up by a chaotic collection of mountains, whose sloping sides afford a scanty subsistence to a hardy race of sheep, and whose bowels contain valuable mines of lead. This elevated view, like all others of the same kind, leduces the small surrounding hills and valleys to one general level. The top is an horizontal plain, near a mile in circumference, containing the ruins of an old wall; from which some imagine it has been a Ro* r.TJlDE TO THE LAKES* 6T limn station, and a place of great defence. For- merly horse-races were held on its top : but of late it has been little frequented, except by slicpherds, and some curious travellers. An old beacon, three or four yards high, with a flight of steps, stands on the western edge, and the ruins of a small watch-house adjoining. In times of internal commotion, or of Scotch invasions, a fire was probably liglited here for the purpose of alarming the neighbouring country, and to in- form them of some imniinent danger. The soil on the top is so dry and barren, that it produces little besides a particular species of moss. The stones on the summit, and for a great way down its sides, except on the east, where there is a stra- tum of limestone, are of the sandy gritty sort, but the base is one continued rock of limestone, and, like the Derbyshire marble, full of entroche. Several springs have their origin near the sum- mit, particularly one on the north side, called Fair-weather-sike, wbich runs into the chasm called Meirgill . These springs, when they reach tlie limestone, are swallowed up, and after run- ning perhaps a mile under ground, make their appearance again in the surrounding vales, and then wind in various directions to the Ribble or the Loyae. Those conical holes, with vortexes downwards, so frequently met with in mountain- ous countries, ar€ nnmeious about the base and $B A DESCRIPTIVE TOtTR | OK sides of Ingleborough - but the most remarkable^ is that called Barefoot- wives'-holcy which is formed like a funnel, the diameter at its top about 50 yards, and the depth 26. A person may de- scend to the bottom in most places without dan-^ ger ; but, on the south side, there is a high rocky precipice. The waters emptied therein are swallowed up at the bottom. A variety of marblesj stones, and fossils, as well as lead ore^ are found on this mountain ; which , to describe particularly, is tlie province of the naturalist. There are several other curiosities of a na^ ture similar to those already described, jnot only about the base of Ingleborough, but that of Whernside, well worth the attention of tourists who have a taste for such uncommon works of nature, and which may be visited in such succes- sion as best suits their convenience. The prin- cipal curiosities on the former, not already no- ticed, are Meirgill and Hardraw-kin on the north side, and Alumn-pot and Long-Churn on the south ; those on the latter are Gatekirk Cave on the south, and Greenside Cave on the south-east. Meirgill is a dreadful chasm, about 80 yards long, and so narrow, that it may be step- ped over in several places ; and is no where above two or three yards wide : a natural bridge stretches across it in one part. Its depth varies ; GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 60 but ill one place it has been found 100 feet, 48 of Avliicli was in water. — Trouts of a very large size have been caught in this horrible abyss, which, at one part, admits an active cautious person to descend to the water's edge. — Its con- tracted mouth has often beguiled heedless sheep to their own destruction ; and endangers the shepherd's life in times of snow ; when the chasm is frequently drifted level with the adjoining ground. The danger is also great during thick fogs, which often suddenly envelope this lofty hill, and bewilder those who are not well ac- quainted with every crevice in the surface.— Our guide related to us a story of a gentleman whom he conducted to the top of Ingleborough on a fine clear day. Having ordered his ser- vant to wait at a certain place on' the summit of tjie mountain, till he and the guide made an ex- cursion round it, a thick fog suddenly set in, and Laving wandered beyond their intended route, when they arrived at the place appointed, bo servant could be found. They sought for, and called to him in vain ; and at length, wearied and alarmed (for they considered him as lost) they judged it safest to attempt' their way down to Ingleton, which our guide, from his know- ledge of the mountain, found not difficult to ac-» complish. The servant, however, to the great joy (jfUk master^ had fuitunately reached Ingle- 70 OR ton ; for, suspecting that his master and the guide had missed their way to his station, he took his horses, and traced back the marks of their feet to the turnpike in Chapel in the Dale, from ■whence he i cached Ingleton some time before them. Hardrawkin is a long, narrow, subterra- neous passage, about 200 or SOO yards from Douk Cave. Alan or Alumn-pot is a circular hole in the rock, near SO feet in diameter, and of a tremen- dous depth, having some resemblance to Elden- hole, in Derbysliire. It is situated about a quar- ter of a mile above the village of Selside, and half a mile from the Ribble. Its margin, which cannot be approi»c!^^d without danger, is fringed with shrubs. Stones tumbled down make a ter- rible and long-continued, hollow, gingling noise, v/hich proves the great profundity of thi& vast hiatus. It does not descend exactly perpen- dicular ; nor is it easy, if at all practicable, to ascertain its depth : v/hen sounded, it was found 165 feet deep ; and, although at a very dry sea- son, contained 43 feet of water. A subterraneous rivulet descends into this vast hole, and causes a gloomy spray, which adds to the horror of the view. From its bottom the brook continues to Jim about 9, milC; and then appears in open day C^UIDE TO THE LAKES, 71 Ibelow the little village of Selside. A low mound of earth surrounds the brim of this dangerous pit, by no means sufficient to prevent sheep and cattle from grazing on its margin : to these ani- mals it frequently proves fatal. Long-Churn is another hiatus /not far from Alumn-pot, but a little higher up the mountain, from whence proceed two long subterraneous passages, in contrary directibms : the one run- ning east, the other westwards. — The former is called Dicken-pot, along which the subterraneous brook runs to the tremendous Alumn-pot. — This passage slopes, widens, and contracts at intervals for the space of 157 yards, to which distance it has been explored ; but a perpendicular rock of 12 feet descent precludes any farther researches ^without the assistance of a ladder and ropes. At the furthest end is an elegant lofty dome, called by the country people St. Paul's. The latter passage proceeds to the source of the Tivulet, nlong its subterraneous channel, and may be pur- sued through numerous tui:nings and windings for near a quarter of a mile, when another orifice appears. The distance of these chasms from each other, in a direct line above ground, is not more than about 240 yards. — Near the western extre- mity is a fine round pool of clear water, said to be from 3 to 12 feet deep, called Dr. Bannister's T!l A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR Hand-bason : a high and spacious dome is placed immediately over it, corresponding nicely with the hollow receptacle below. A rivulet falls down a steep rock, about six feet high, into this bason, which, though very dangerous, it is necessary to ascend before we reach the upper orifice. A small ladder taken with the party will be found very convenient. These caverns should be visited only in very dry seasons, other- wise such a copious flow of water runs along them as renders it difficult, and often impracticable, to see them. They contain a greater variety of cu- riou$ petrifactions than most other caves in this part of the kingdom, which is probably owing- to their being less frequented. There are several other caves of a similar nature, but inferior in point of curiosity, all along the base of Inglebo* rough towards Clapham, Gatekirk Cave is about two yards high at the entrance, but quickly increases its dimensions to six : it may be walked along easily for 100 yards, when the roof lowers to about four feet high, and therefore cannot conveniently be explo- red any farther. Here a cleft in the rock admits us again to the surface. -^The river Greta draws its main stream through this cave, running un- der ground for two miles, but peeps out here, at Weathercote, and two or three other places, dti- GUIDE TO THE LAKES. TS ring its subterraneous course. — Another under- ground passage opens just over where the water issues, and enters this at the distance of 24 feet : its height is from 3 to 10 feet.— The pendent pe- trifactions which decorate this cave are singular- ly curious, representing hams, neats' tongues, heads, and various other portions of different animals. Some parts of this cave appear like dreary vaults, inclosing the remainis of departed heroes in huge stone coffins ; and some large pe- trifactions on the natural shelves represent chil^ dren or virgins formed in alabaster. — As we pro- ceed, several narrow windings enter the main passage, and frequently discharge little tinkling rills into the brook. Many of these collateral branches are wide enough to admit one to pass along them to a coiisiderable distance, Greenside Cave is situated near the village of Winterscales, and two miles distant from that of Gatekirk. Its entrance is spacious, but the dimensions soon become so contracted as to len- der a passage difficult and inconvenient. —There are few of those petrifactions to be met with he^re which are found in the other caves in this neigh=^ bourhood ; and for which they are so deservedly admired by the curious traveller. Like other caverns of the same kind, however, a trickling brook murmurs at its bottom. H f$ A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR Whernside may be conveniently ascended from hence 5 though the prospects it affords are said not to be much diversified with pleasing ob- jects, but surrounded with brown and blue mountains, the situation being in the midst of a vast amphitheatre of hills. The sight of four or £ve tarns, or small lakes near the top, will, how^ ever, afford some amusement to the curious. Two of them are tolerably large, being 200 or 300 yards in length, and almost of an equal extent in breadth. A thin seam of coal is found near the summit of this mountain ; and another is said to correspond therewith on the top of the lofty hill Colm, on the opposite side of Dibdale or Dent* dale, GATKNOT-hole is a remarkable cave on the base of the mountain Cam, near the turnpike road between Ingleton and Askrig. The entrance is low, not more than three or four feet, but the roof soon increases in elevation to as many yards. After travelling a little way, a pool of water in- terposes, and obliges the visitant to wade through it^ a depth of at least half a yard. The passage then contracts, biit is wide enough for a person to proceed, except in one or two places, where lie Vfill be in danger of getting bedaubed with a red glime. Proceeding about a quarter of a mile, the roadp though wider, is so low as to preclude all GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 75 further progress with convenience or pleasure, though probably, after creeping a little way, the roof may rise again to a sufficient height, and af- ford a further passage. The jutting rocks and pendent petrifactions, in every grotesque and fantastic shape, and glittering in the richest manner, render an hour's wandering along this subterraneous passage a very delightful excur- sion. The rocks are encrusted with spar, which sometimes hang from the roof in various shapes, like icicles. These stony substances are, doubt- less, generated by the calcareous particles among the water which oozes through the rocks, they adhering thereto. The small cascades and tink- ling rills issuing from the little openings into the main passage, with their sweet and various tones, constitute a pleasing melody, very different from any sort of natural music heard above ground. Hard RAW Scar, another natural curiosity, is thus described in '' A Tour to the Caves, &c." written by the curate of Chapel in the Dale. '' Hardraw Scar is nearthe town of Haws, in Winsleydale, and bears some distant affinity to the tremendous Gordle (noticed before). The chasm is pervious at the bottom, and extends above 300 yards in length, fortified with huge shattered rocks on each side, which are in some places 33 yards perpendicular, and the interval- H 2 76 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR lum above 80. At the far end is an amazinfj cataract, which pours forth a vast quantity of water, that falls into a deep bason. Behind the waterfall is a deep recess excavated out of the so- lid rock ; here the spectator may stand behind the stream, secure from its madifying effects, and may go quite round it upon one of the numerous ^axa sedilia, at the distance often yards from the water. In the winter of the year 1740, when fairs were held on the Thames, this cascade was frozen, and constituted a prodigious icicle of a conic form, thirty- two yards and three quarters in circumference, which was also its height." This surprising scar is about four miles west from Askrig. We now take leave of the Caves, and, re- turning to Ingleton, proceed from thence to Kirkby- Lonsdale, seven miles. The road, which is tolerably good, leads along a large irregular Tale, with high grounds on each side. — The soil, in general, a brown gravelly loam, and na- turally produces good grass, to which purpose it is almost universally applied : from the remain- der is obtained a little barley and oats, but the culture is wretched.— Buildings are good, and 1 r GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 77 several Gentlemen's seats appear near the road. Stone walls divide the fields towards Ingleton ; but thorn hedges more generally prevail in other parts of this district, in which also some small tracts of woodland appear. The surface in many places is pretty level, and the general appearance of the country not unpleasant. The climate, however, is said to be humid. — Coals are plenti- ful in this district. — In this part of our itinerary we pass through a small strip of Lancashire, and enter Westmoreland a little before we reach Kirkbj^-Lonsdale, which town appears to great advantf^ge from the road at half a mile distance. We pass an ancient bridge over the river Loyne, close to the west end of the town, consisting of three very strong ribbed arches ; the height of tlie centre arch, from the surface of the water, (except in time of floods) is about twelve yards. This bridge is of great antiquity, and built after so good a model, that, it is said, when Black- friars bridge, in London, was about to be erect- ed, the architect came to Kirkby-Lonsdale to ex- amine this bridge, approved of it, and adopted the same style of building. KiRKBY-LoNSDALE stauds ou the banks of the Loyne : it is a small neat market-town, well built, chiefly of white polished freestone, and covered with blue slate : the number of inhabit- H 3 78 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR ants about 1100. Its vicinity afFords several beautiful views, particularly the various prospects in the beautiful Avooded vale. The church and vicarage-house stand at the east end of the town : the former a decent old structure with a square tower, and the roof covered with lead ; the latter is neat, and sweetly situated ; but the garden ad- joining, with an octagonal summer-house therein, opens to one of the finest prospects in the coun- try. A good gravel walk leads from the church- yard by the under side of this garden wall, and extends along the top of a very steep bank of 50 or 60 yards perpendicular height, which is wash- ed at the bottom by the large river Loyne. From hence the beautiful and fertile vale, variegated with Avoodlands, trees, lawns, neat farm-houses, and pleasant seats, with the fine winding river pouring its crystal streams over a pebbly chau- nel, with a deep and murmuring noise, expands its bosom at our feet. High grounds and distant mountains form the back ground of this rural and engaging picture. The serpentine windings of the Loyne are seen at one view for a consider- able distance. After walking half a mile up its banks the scene varies, the river appears an ex- tensive sheet of still water ; and, at the higher extremity, a range of impending rocks of red freestone, about 30 yards high, has an excellent effect in the view. In winter this precipice is GtJIDE TO THE LAKES. ^9 sometimes so glazed with ice, from the water trickling down its surface, as to give it the ap- pearance of a sheet of glass ; and from some parts , of the impending rocks large icicles hang, great- ly resembling the pipes of an organ. We now continue our journey towards the Lakes, along a turnpike road, and reach Kendal, twelve miles. The surface of the country is very uneven and hilly, and distant high mountains appear on every side. About Kirkby-Lonsdale the ground is fertile, but different large moors .oc- cupy a great part of the district from thence to Kendal ; the soil generally dry and gravelly, and grass land chiefly prevails. Some fev/ trees on hedge-rows, and several coppice-woods adorn the sides of the hills and banks of rivers, particu- larly towards the vale of Kendal. We left the coal country several miles beyond Kirkby-Lons- dale ; but limestone continues to abound : about a mile west from the road is Farlton-knot, a high rock of naked limestone, the western front of which extends prominently forward, and greatly resembles the rock of Gibraltar. OiY our approach to the town of Kendal, we were particularly struck with the whitened walls and blue slated roofs of its buildings, which give tke place a clean and neat appearance. Its situ* go A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR atioii is generally considered as greatly similar to that of the city of Bath ; which, like Kendal, hangs on the southern declivity of a range of rocky hills, bordering a low vale, which is wa- tered by the Avon as Kendal is by the river Kent. The vale, through which the Kent flows, spreads itself considerably on each hand, varying its dimensions and windmg in its course till it reaches the estuary at Milnthorp. Kendal is a remarkably neat and well-built market and manufecturing town, and stands in a pleasant and healthy situation, with the river Kent washing its southern side. Many of the streets are narrow, even about the market-place, and towards the centre of the town ; but those which run from thence to the extremities^ in every direction, are more spacious. The north road crosses the Kent over a good stone bridj^e, which was lately widened and rendered extreme- ly commodious ; and that to the south, reaching the other end of the town, makes an abrupt turn over an old bridge. Besides these bridges there is a good foot-bridge of stone between them, but that is more for private convenience than public benefit. The church is a large Gothic fabric, with a square tower i it has double aisles i and at the GlTlDiS to THE LAKES, 81 east end four chapels, or choirs, one of which be- longed to the Parrs, another to the Stricklands, a third to the Bellinghams, arid the fourth is the proper choir of the church. Near the church'is a handsome house, cal- led Abbot-hall, the property of Sir Alen Cham- BRE, Knight, one of the Barons of the Court of Exchequer. A pleasant lawn, beautified with a variety of walks, trees, and shrubs, extends from thence to the river. On the opposite side of the river we see the noble ruins of a strong castle, standing on a fine green hill, and forming a conspicuous object from every part of the vale. Most of the inclo- sure wall remains ; with four towers, two square and two round, but their upper parts and embat- tlements are demolished ; it is of rough stone and cement, without any ornament or arms ; round, and inclosing a court of the like form, and surrounded by a moat. The present structure is generally believed to have been raised by the first barons of Kendal, and, not improbably, on the ruins of a Roman station. On the north side of this town, opposite the castle, is a curious artificial mount, called the Castle-law Hill, which is supposed to be of great antiquity, being, as it is believed, one of those 8;^ A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR bills called laws, where in ancient times the ad- ministration of justice took place. A handsome obelisk was erected on the top of this hill, by a subscription of the inhabitants of Kendal, in 1788, with an inscription alluding to the revolu- tion which happened just a century before. A large and commodious workhouse for the poor was built some yiears agoon a good situation at the east end of the town, which contains fifty- five separate rooms, thirty-five of which are lodg- ing rooms, very judiciously distributed. A bridewell, or house of correction, stands near the workhouse. — Near the middle of the town butch- ers' shambles have lately been erected on an ex- cellent plan. — Here are also several charitable institutions, which are well supported. Kendal, besides containing many genteel houses of private gentlemen and manufacturers, affords some good inns, with every convenience and accommodation. The manufacture of this place increases the w^ealth and population of its inhabitants, but the former more than the latter. The number of in- habitants, however, has been considerably aug- mented : in January, 1784, and in July^ 1793, actual enumerations took place, when there were found — • _ GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 83 Families. Males, Females* Per^mri In 1784, . . . 1859, . . . 3267, . . . 4304": in all 7571 — 1793, . . . 1938, . . . 3533, . . . 4556: . . . 8089 The principal manufacture is the Kendal cottons, for whicli this town has long been noted. There are now twelve houses in that trade, whicli. together make about 1200 pieces weekly, each piece containing about 24 pounds of wool. This business is increasing, end other houses are about to be established. — Here are also eight principal linsey manufactures, and several other manufac- tures of less consequence are carried on. — There are likewise a considerable number of hands era- ployed in working and polishing marble got in the neighbourhood, which, in the beauty and va- riety of its colours, is thought by many to be su» perior even to that imported from Greece and Italy. — Mr. Wakefield manufactures large quantities of gunpowder at his mills a little be* low this town. At Kendal there is a Museum containing a considerable variety of curiosities, especially shells and fossils. We now leave Kendal, and proceed towards the lake Haws-water, either by way of Shap, or Long-Sleddale. — The former is a good carriage jroad, but a circuitous route of several miles, and B4 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR less convenient to people going northwards, as it enters tlie vale at Bampton, upwards of a mile below the lake. The latter is a more direct road, of about 16 miles : it comes in at the head of the lake, and accompanies the water from its source : but the passage is very difficult, as it is necessary to pursue a dim serpentine path over a high mountain, impassable in any sort of carriage, and not easily traversed on horseback. This road, however, was represented to us as so romantical- ly curious, that we were induced to direct our course by that route. As we proceed along the fine vale of Kent, the town of Kendal assumes a new and still more pleasing appearance. Mr. Wakefield's house, to the east, is a prominent object ; as are those public buildings, the workhouse and house- of correction ; while the tenter grounds on the side of the mountain, tier above tier, proclaim the in- dustry and manufacture of the inhabitants. Soft green hills, with grey crags interspersed, rise ir- regularly before us ; and hedges of thorn and hazel bound the little waving fields on each side. Every hill we mount affords ,us a glance into some retired glen, and presents some new trait in the great picture of Westmoreland. Continuing the Shap and Penrith road for a])out four miles and a half, we turn o&" to the GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 85 left, and pursue a bye-road to Long-Sleddale, which is a long, narrow, and deep vale, inclosed with high ridges of rocky mountains. Soon af- ter our entrance into the valley, we pass a small chapel, where the inhabitants of the dale, issuing from their cottages, assemble to offer up their public devotions to the Almighty. A large brook intersects a strip of meadow ground which runs along the bottom of this vale. The fields on each side rise in irregular swells, till the rocky declivity of the mountains precludes all cultiva- tion ; where brushwood and coppices commence, and often climb almost to the top, sometimes finding support even on the craggy precipices. The surrounding mountains continue to ascend with increasing grandeur. The dale then con- tracts a little, and towards its head the rocks be- come eminently conspicuous ; one of which, on. the right, called Crowbarrow, or Backbarraw, is truly awful. Cascades and cataracts tumble over the precipices in various places, some of them from a very great height ; the magnificence of this scene is greatly augmented after falls of rain. A strong wind, in some directions, also produces a curious appearance in these waterfalls, which we were so fortunate as to enjoy when we passed through Long-Sleddale. As the water begins to pour over the tops of som-e projecting rocks (up- wards of one hundred yards in perpendicular S6 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR lieiglit from the bottom of the vale) it is caugbt by a strong gust of wind, and violently forced up- wards, exactly in the form of smoke, for several minutes together. So much were we deceived, that after viewing it with great attention, we con- cluded, that, notwitlistanding the frightful situa.- tion. the smoke must proceed from some fires be- low, and we were about to make inquiry of a shepherd whom we met, when, again looking to the summit in a more calm interval , we were sur- prised to see little torrents of water where the smoke seemed to issue before. In half a minute after the water again disappeared, and violently ascended into the air in the appearance of smoky vapour. The mountains now begin to unite their bases, and the road gradually ascends ; while the brook, clear as crystal, tumbles with a more vio- lent motion over a stratum of beautiful light blue coloured rock. Here, close by the road, on the left, two separate streams, just before their junc^ tion, form each a beautiful cascade — the one about twenty, and the other fifteen feet in height -^and, after uniting, fall again about six feet. Great quantities of the finest blue slate are got at this place, and conveyed on horseback to some distance, till the ground becomes level enough to admit of carts travelling upon it. I GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 87 The road now contracts into a rugged path, and winds curiously half way up the side of a steep mountain, whence a more easy ascent is had to its summit. It then descends, in a like serpen- tine manner, down to the vale of Mardale. Not- withstanding the difficulty of this road, the stranger enjoys the satisfaction of being assured that he cannot possibly deviate from the right path. — When we traversed this Alpine pass, the broken scattered clouds were hurried along before a brisk wind, just touching the tops of the moun- tains, while the sun shone bright through among them. The dark coloured and well defined sha- dows of these dense vapours, sweeping rapidly over the heathy surface in a great variety of fi- gures, like immense carpets, occasioned a very singular appearance in this elevated region. Descending into the vale of Mardale, the mountains before us open to a great depth, and discover the beautiful lake HAWS'WATER, shining at their base, with the little fields and se- questered cottages along the margin of the lake. Here cataracts accompany us all the way to the bottom, and others appear at a little distance pushing over rocky ledges. — On the left, Hartei*- fell towers its lofty head, and shews a dark-colour- I 2 88 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OB ed and almost naked perpendicular rock in front; but between the different layers are narrow sloping patches of scanty herbage, whereon the hardy mountain sheep find a bare subsistence, and in some places appear as if stuck to the wall of a huge and iramensly high castle. Beyond this rocky eminence, Highstreet rears his bulky form ; and in the same quarter, but more northerly, Kidsey-pike shews his conical head. — On the right, Naddle Forest appears less formidable, presenting a surface more soft and verdant, though bestrewed with rocky fragments. Near the base of the hill, two streams are seen rushing down the mountains on the left, from two elevated lakes situated in the breasts of the hills, the least of which is said to cover about ten acres. A dreary, desert -like vale now conducts us, together with the united streams of these nume- rous cataracts, near a mile further, Avhen we turn a rocky hill to the left, and presently reach the little chapel of Mardale, overhung with mourn- ful yews. The beauty and fertility of the vale gradually increase ; and, after passing some huge fragments of rocks, broken and tumbled from the surrounding mountains, and scattered in the rudest order, we reach the head of the lake. GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 89 Tlie road soon approaches, and generally conti- nues along its margin, sometimes in winding lanes, with high hedges on each side, which fre- quently shut out the view of the lake ; then opening again, admit a full prospect of its beau- ties. — On the opposite side, a ridge of moun- tains, forming Naddle Forest, rises quickly from the water's edge, and hardly leaves room for a cultivated farm ; its front displays a mixture of green herbage, grey rocks, and scattered trees. There are some small fa^ms, with pretty fields, tiud hedge-rows of hazel and thorn, creeping (gently up the sides of rocky mountains ; while the beautiful sheet of water contrasts its soft and gently heaving bosom with the rugged aspect of i(s grizzly guardians. As we proceed, a low promontory pushes into the lake, and almost separates its waters. This delightful promontory is neatly divided in^. to small inclosures. Wellow-Crag, a huge naked rock, rears its head on the southern shore, and overlooks the f ale of Mardale. On this side the hills rise more gradually, and expose a mixture of grey rock and soft green surface. Here also Thwaite-force tumbles dowrt among the rocks in a iine and noble cataract. I 3 90 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR AVe continue along the winding borders of this sweet lake, and lind the beauty of its vicinity increasing. The fronts of Naddle Forest and Melkside, on the east, are clothed with wood to their very summits, and sometimes a tree, which the great height apparently diminishes to a shrub, is^seen proudly overtopping the whole. This lake is supposed to be about Mty fa- thoms deep in the narrowest part. The soil in its vicinity is dry and gravelly. A few neat, small farms, almost buried in groves of trees, in- tervene between the v,'estern border and the rising hills behind. Char, perch, trout, eel, skelly, bass, chubb, and cheven, are caught in this lake. The fishery is let to a miller in the neighbour- hood, who is said to have greatly destroyed the breed offish. Hence we continue our route to Penrith, by way of Bampton and Lowther-Hall, twelve miles. After a pleasant ride of about two miles, we arrive at Bampton, a small village, remark- able only for its situation, in a fine vale, and the free school there, where some very eminent men are said to have received the rudiments of their education, particularly the Bishops Gibson and Law. The number of scholars generally about 70. The master's salary, which arises chiefly from tithes, amounts to about ^60 a year. GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 91 besides presents from the parents of his pupils. Here are two public-houses, where the traveller will meet willi more sincerity than politeness ; and more cheap and wholesome, than costly and ele-* gant fare ; but where he will find accommoda- tions and refreshment for his more immediate wants. — Below this village a large tract of mea- dow ground, intersected with the river Lowther, calls aloud for agricultural improvement. — The vale, as we proceed, becomes contracted ; but the aspect of the country is very agreeable. The river Lowther runs along the middle, from which small fields of grass land, divided either with stone walls, or hedge -rows of hazel, rise gently to the feet of the hills, which ascend to a mode- rate height, and are in many parts likewise spread over with inclosurcs. At the distance of five miles from Bamptoa we reach the little village of Askh am, situated on the banks of the river Lowtlier, opposite to Low- tlier-Hall.— Askham-Hall is a small, but neat,, and pretty well pluccd old house, the property and residence of Edward Bolton, Esq. with a small deer park adjoining. From Askham a road leads to Pooley-bridge, at the lower end of Ulls* water. The river Lowther, in this part of its course, runs along a deep rocky channel, over- hung with trees and thickets : a stratum of bas- 92 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUE ; OR tard marble appears at the bottom, and above that is a rock of red freestone. The rectory house at Lowther is a good modern building, at the foot of the hill, on the left of the road from Ask- ham. At a small distance, Lo^A'ther-Hall, or ra- ther the remains of that once elegant mansion, ap- pears in an excellent situation. The body of the house was burnt down many years ago, and the wiEgs only now remain, v,^hic!i, however, suffici- ently shew the ancient magnitude and grandeur of this formerly noble structure. The Earl of LoNSBALE, io whom it belongs, is at present re- building it In a most magnificent style ; but, it is probable, -so great an undertaking will occupy a considerable space of time before it be completed. The church stands a little to the north from the hall, and is just seen from the road, half buried among trees ; it is a neat modern ediiice, and ap- pears to have been built after the model of St. PauFs, in London. The deer park runs up from the hall, and adjoins the river : it contains up- wards of 600 acres of land, with some valuable plantations of oak, ash, elm, &c. &c. and is well stocked v.itn deer. — A terrace extends half a mile along the upper border of the park, and commands a charming and extensive view to the west : this terrace the late Noble Owner consi- derably lengthened ; and also added much to the beautifying and improving the adjoining pleasure GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 93 grounds. From the hall we soon approach a large white building of several stories, called the College, having formerly been a place of educa- tion, particularly for the Lowther family. — • Lowther new village was built many years ago, by the late Lord Lonsdale, with a design of establishing a linen manufactory : it is on a re- gular and commodious plan ; but the design failing, few of the houses are completely finish- ed : it affords, however, a comfortable residence to his Lordship's labourers. We come here upon one of the great roads leading from London, by way of Lancashire, to Edinburgh. Turning to the right, after a short but pleasant ride, at the distance of two miles south from Penrith, we approach Brougham- Hall, the delightful mansion of Henry Brough- iiAM, Esq. on a fine wooded eminence to the east from the road. — As this is a situation that cannot but arrest the eye and engage the attention of all travellers, whether on the great York road, or iliat from Kendal to Penrith, we shall briefly no- lice some of its most striking objects, referring the more curious reader to that beautiful descrip- tion drawn by Mr. Hutchinson, in his History of CumbeHand, vol. i. p. 305. Not only from its elevated situation, but al- so from its extensive and various prospects^ 94 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR Brougliam-Hall has, not improperly, been stiled the Windsor of the North. — The house has a long front to the west, with a terrace of consider- able breadth running from north to south. The views from this terrace, both for variety and ex- lent, are seldom to be equalled, and the scenery around exceeds all description. It is observed, that '' there is one uncommon advantage which this place enjoys from these varied landscapes at each point of view, viz. that the whole is taken in (the view to the nortli only excepted) from every room in the house." The shrubberies and pleasure grounds are extensive; the first of the kind, we believe, in the north of England. ' Within the shrubberies, in a recess adapt- ed to the purpose, and near a fine spring, is a hermifs cell^ a small circular building covered with thatch, and lined with mosses of various kinds : the seats around are matted, and the win- dows of painted glass, with the usual characteris- tics of a hermit in his retirement, viz. the hour- glassy cross, and beads, and a skull. On the table some appropriate lines are painted from II Penseroso of Miltoti ; and in another part of the building is a scroll, with these lines : — " Beneath this moss-grown roof, this rustic cell, Truth, Liberty, Content, sequester'd dwell : Say, you who dare our hermitage disdain, What drawing-room can boast so iiSx a train ?'* GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 95 An adjoining wood of several acres contri- butes greatly to the beauty of the scencj and is so much in character, as to be considered a necessary member of tlie wliole. On the brink of the river Lowther stands a thatched building of two rooms ; one of which contains a collection of curious prints, and speci- mens of natural history, with a gallery for the . convenience of angling in the river beneath ; the other is the residence of a person who feeds th& poultry, and takes care of the pleasure -grounds j &c. A little lower down the banks of the Eamont is Brougham-Castle, a spacious ruin. — ^^ This castle is situated on the north side of the Roman station Brovoniacuniy which has formed an area and outwork 120 paces square, defended by the vallum and an outward ditch, both at this time very discernible." Before we cross the river Eamont in our way to Penrith, it will be necessary to observe, that this district contains some curious antiqui- ties, which have been thus described by Mr. Hutchinson, in his Excursion, &c. page 90 — ^' From thence we went to view a place by the inhabitants called Arthur^s Round Tahh^ neai: to Eamont bridge, and about half a mile from 96 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR Penrith. — This is said to be of great antiquity, but there is no tradition when, by whom, or for what purposfe it was made. It is cut in a little plain near the river, of an exact circular figure, save to the eastern and western sides an approach is left to the common level of the plain : — the trench by which it is formed is near ten paces wide, the soil which has been thrown up on the outward side making a kind of theatre : — the ap^ proaches are ten p^ces wide, and the whole circle within the ditch is 160 paces in circumfe- rence. — We were induced to believe this was an ancient tilting ground, where justings had been held : the approaches seemed to answer for the career, and the circle appears sufficient for the champions to shew their dexterity in the use of the lance and horsemanship ; the whole circus being capable of receiving 1000 spectators on the outer side of the ditch. — It is hot probable that this was an intrenchment or fortified camp, itbe- ing too small for such purposes ; and more par- ticularly it is overlooked by an adjoining rising ground, from whence it might be annoyed by- missile weapons. Another reason for the same opinion, given by a learned author, is, that the ditch is on the inner side.* " It is said of the order of Knights of the Magna Britannia," GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 97 Round Table, that it was instituted by King Arthur,^ to the end there might be no question about precedency, and to teach heroic minds not (o be ambitious of place, but merit, ^' At a little distance from the Round Table, and nearer to Eamont bridge, is another circular ditch, with a very low rampart, but of much greater size, being 70 paces diameter, without any apertures or advances. — If we presume the other was intended for feats of chivalry, this may be supposed calculated for pedestrian exer- cises. *' At about half a mile's distance we view- ed a place called Mai/hrough^ a hill, which ari- ses gradually on every side about 110 paces from the level of the lands below, forming the lower section of a regular cone ; — the ascent is on eve- ry side grown Avith oaks and ashes, and seems,' from the reliques of the ax, to have been covered in former ages with wood, though no very an- cient trees now remain standing. '^ The summit of the hill is fenced round, save only an opening left to the east, 12 paces wide ;— the fence is very singular, being compo- sed of an immense quantity of loose pebble stones, which seem to have been gathered froiqa the river, by their quality, and the similarity «: 98 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OB there is between them and the gravel of the bed of the Eamont. — No kind of mortar appears to have been used here, the stones lie uncemented, and in a heap^ the foot is near 20 paces wide, ri- sing to an edge, in height about eight feet from the level of the interior plain. — Here and there time has scattered a few trees and brushwood over the pebbles ; but in other places they are loose and naked, both on the out and inside of the fence. — The space within consists of a fine plain of meadow ground, exactly circular, 100 paces diameter. Inclining a little to the westward from the centre, a large mass of unhewn stone is standing erect, placed with the smaller end in the earth, on which some little ash trees have taken their growth, by striking their roots into the na- tural fissures of the stone ; —the stone is in cir- cumference, near its middle, 22 feet and some inches, and in height 11 feet and upwards ; it is a species of the freestone, and appears to have been gathered from the surface, and not won in any quarry or bed of stone .-^The inhabitants in the neighbourhood say, that within the memory of man two other stones of similar nature, and placed in a kind of angular figure with the stone now remaining, were to be seen there, but as they were hurtful to the ground, were destroyed and removed. GtriDE TO THE LAKES, 99 ^« The traditional account given of this place is in no wise to be credited : ' That it was a Roman theatre, where criminals were ex- posed to wild beasts ; and that those stones were placed for the refuge and respite of the combat- ant in his unhappy conflict.' ^' The name of Maybrough induced us to believe, that this was a British fortification, and its name a corruption of Maiden Burg*, a title given to many fortresses which were esteemed impregnable, and which were boasted never to iiave known a conqueror ; but the large stone placed within the plain, and those said to have been defaced within the memory of man, con- founded this conjecture, and prompted an idea, that the whole was a druidical monument, and the name of it Mayberiet, or MalebergeJ. The * " The word Maiden has gained an acceptation for Military, as the Maiden Ways in Northumberland, &c,— — — Wallis's Antiquities or Northumberland." f " Antiquarians have frequently confounded Bury for Berie ; — the one implying the tomb of some great or remark- able personage ; — the latter, Berie, being the name of a plain, or vale, surrounded with groves and forests, and held sacred by the ancient Britons. Lord Coke." I " Maleberge, Mons Placiti ; a hill, where the peo- ple assembled at a court like our assizes, which by the Scotch and Irish arc called Parley Hills. Du Cange," K 2 LcfC. 100 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR elevated plain, the surrounding woods, and this rude pillar, render it probable that it was a tem- ple of the Druids, where, under the solemn shade of the consecrated grove, they exercised their religious rites, and taught the multitude ; and also held those convocations in which they determined the rights of the people, and admi- nistered public justice. — Perhaps, when they were driven out of Mona, and fled before the Ro- man sword, they might fortify their sacred places, . and gather their people into such strong holds, to resist the power which had avowed their extir- pation." Carlton-Hall, on the Cumberland side of the Eamont, is a good, plain, and modern build- ing, the seat of Thomas Wallace, Esq. sweet- ly situated in a rich and beautiful vale, inclosed with wooded high-grounds of various aspect, but always pleasing. The lawn in front is extensive, and irregularly intersected with the river Eamont, while the Lowther winds round its western ex- tremity, and then pours its waters into the «< Collis vallo plerumq ; munitus in loco campestri, ne jnsldius exponatur, ubi convenire dim sokbaut centuns aut viclmse inculsead litcs inter se tractandas et termlnandas. Scotis reorq; Grith hail, mons pacificationis cui asyli privilegia coa- cedebantur.— — Spelman." GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 101 Eamont. — Westwards, the vale of Eamont opens to a considerable distance, and discovers the ele- vated and rugged barriers of Ulls-water. — East- wards, we see the high moiintsiin of Cross-fell peeping over inferior hills, and looking into this valley. In the vicinity of the house, walks are formed in various directions, from Avhich the beauty and richness of the country is seen in dif- ferent points of viev/. Penrith stands at the foot of a consider- able eminence^ in a pleasant, open vale. Th^ country for several miles to the south, east, and west, is fertile, and well cultivated : the surface, however, is somewhat uneven. Inclosures,^ as well as farms, are rather small in this neighbour- hood . On the north side of the town an exten- sive common darkens the prospect for eight or nine miles, gathering up at the middle in a long ridge of high barren hills ; at the head of which, above Penrith, a beacon is erected, from whence there is a remarkably extensive prospect on eve- ry side. This view has been already painted by the descriptive pen of Mr. Hutchinson. — '' The northern window of the beacon lioiise af- fords a prospect of Cross-fell, with the pikes of Dufton, together with a chain of mauntains ex- tending from east to west near SO miles, the wTst= Iern point sinking in the spacious plain wliere the ^02 A DESCRIPTIVE TOLIl; Oil City of Carlisle lies. Tlie utmost bounds of this view are formed by a ridge of Scotch mountains. —Some faint appearance of St. Mary's church marlis to the eye the scite of Carlisle. " The eastern window presented a view of the country we had passed^ bounded by the hills of Stalnmore, and that lofty promontory Wilbore fell, vv iilr its neighbouring mountains above Kirk- by-Stephcn. " The south window presented to us a view of Brougham Castle, with its plains of pasture ground. — The spreading woods of Lowther, in- termixed with rich cultivated lands, formed the rising grounds. — Some parts of the lake of UUs- water were seen ; whilst the mighty rocks and mountains which hemmed in the lake lifted up their heads in rude confusion, and crowned the scene. '' The western window afforded a new and not less pleasing prospect ; — ihe tov»n of Penrith lay before us, and here and there the river Eamont shewed its windings through the woods. — The hill which rises above the town is crowned with the awful reiiKiins of a royal fortress ; — time has despoiled its grandeur, but its honours still survive to its noble owner, the Duke of Pont- GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 103 LAND*, who (here with holds the honour of Pen- rith, formerly a royal franchise. — Beyond these objectsj amidst a range of mountains, at the dis- tance of IS miles, Skiddaw is seen , whose majes- tic front surmounts all the high lands that termi- nate the view. ^' The whole prospect from the beacon hill, as you turn every way, present you with a vast theatre, upwaids of 100 miles in circumference, circled with stupendous mountains." The town of PexVrith is well built, with its principal street running north and south. The houses are of red freestone, and, in general, co- vered with blue slate. The town contaiils some good and commodious inns ; and the market is well supplied with provisions. The population, at present, is about 4000 souls. There is no ma- nufacture of much consequence in or near this town, the bulk of the inhabitants being formers, innkeepers, shopkeepers, mechanics, and labour- ers. Ill the church -yard there is a remarkable monument, apparently of great antiquity. It consists of two upright single stone pillars, about 10 fiet in height, and 15 feet apart, in a direction of cast and west ; and on each side of the tomb, * Novs' belonging to the Duke of Devonshire, lOi A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR two stones of a semi-circular form are placed edffcwise in the ground. This is doubtless a se-* pulchral monument, but whether British, Roman, Saxon, or Danish, is difiP.cult to determine. Ma- ny strange traditional tales retain credit among the common people respecting this singular mo- nument ; viz. that it is the burial place of a giant 10 or 12 feet in height, who was famous for kill- ing wild boars in the Forest of Ingle wood, &c. — The ruins of a strong castle, on a rising ground hear the town, form a prominent object. It has been formed on a parallelogram, fortified with a rampier and a very deep outward fosse, or ditch ; the only approach was on the side next to the town, where an opening through the works still appears, which is supposed to have been kept by a draw-bridge. Nothing is observable about the fabric which indicates a date much prior to the reign of King Edward V. Some writers suppose it to have been repaired out of the ruins of May- brough ; and others with materials from Old Penrith, a Roman station at a few miles distance ; but Mr. Hutchinson, can see no probability of either from the stones with which it is formed. — He is inclined to state its rise after Penrith was granted to Nevill, and thinks it was first erected hy that family. But be that as it m.ay, it is the general opinion that Richard Duke of Glou- cester resided here, that he might be more at GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 105 hand to oppose the Scots, who were incessantly turbulent ; as also to keep the adjacent country in awe, the inhabitants being chiefly attached to the Lancastrian. party. We now turn towards ULLS- WATER, about five miles south-west from Penrith, and to which a good road leads along each side of the Eamont, through a delightful country. That on the nortli pursues a pleasant fertile part of the vale along the borders of the river, and, leads past the front of Dalemain, the sweetly -secluded mansion of Edward Hasell, Esq. siirrounded with woody eminences. The other road from Penrith crosses tlie Eamont at Eamont-bridge, and passes Arthur's Round Table on the lefr, and Maybrough on the right, running through the village of Yanwith, with Yanwith-Hall, a plea- sant modern scat of Joseph Boak, Esq. at a lit- tle distance to the north, and continuing through a line wooded, fertile, and rural country to the lake. The tall hedges on each side of this road almost totally shut out the prospect, except at intervals, when we gain a peep through the trees over the delightful vale below. The mountains are seen towering to the clouds in the rudest or- ^^'^Z^; -z^^/^^^^^g^ y^ir/f-^Ja/^' 106 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR der, increasing in awful grandeur,, and seeming to threaten the intrusive stranger with destruc- tion, should he venture to approach them. Travellers who visit this lake will find every necessary accommodation at a small inn (the sign of the Sun) in the little village of Pooley, which is situated at the foot of the lake ; as also a good boat, guide, and proper apparatus for rousing the surprising echoes from the sur- rounding mountains. Accommodations of this nature may likewise be procured at Dobson's, ifi Patterdale, and at other places adjoining the lake. ^ From Pooley, ascend the beautifal conic- topped mount, Dunmallett, which stands at the outlet of the lake, as if intent on stopping its pas- sage. On the summit of this hill a fine view opens up the first reach of the lake, for about the space of three miies, and discovers all its little capes, bays, and x^roraontories. The mountain called Haller-fell then intervenes, and seems al- most to shut up the vale. A little to the right, a large collection of still higher and more rugged mountains present their frowning aspects, awful and intimidating to the fearful stranger. DuNMALLET is covcrcd with young trees of various sorts ^ but the broad direct avenues which GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 107 lead from the base to the summit, are formal, glaring, and unpleasant ; narrow winding paths , would have been much more easy and natural. On its top are the vestiges of a Roman fort of 110 paces by 37, surrounded with a fosse. After enjoying the view from Dunmallet, either take a boat and navigate the lake, landing occasionally as fancy may direct : or first take the pleasure of a walk or a ride along the margin of the water to Patterdale, which is about eight or nine miles. — From Pooley tliere is a pleasing excursion of three miles on the southern side of the lake through a shady lane, which sometimes draws close to the water's edge ; and the rising ground affords a variety of fine prospects over the lake and the adjoining country. The land here is remarkably fertile, and lies in gentle declivities, till, approaching the mountains, it ascends ab- ruptly, and bursts out in awful rocky fronts. Be- fore we reach the first turn of the lake, the moun- tain descends quickly to its margin, and denies any further passage. The principal road, how- ever, leads along the northern shore, winding close to the margin of the lake, having Soulby* fell, a smooth verdant mountain, on the right, which rises from the very edge of the water, and just leaves a space for the road. After passing tliis hill, v/c leave the lake at a little distance. k 108 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR and, mounting over a small common, soon reach Watermillock, the seat of Colonel Robinson— a delightfully situated residence. — From hence we direct our course, for about a mile further, to Gowbarrow-park, through shadj lanes and small iaclosures. The opposite shores display a plea- sant stiip of cultivated land ; above "which Swarth-fell raises his lumpish back, and. With Hallen-fell, forms a fine and spacious bay. This last-mentioned mountain steps boldly forward in- to the lake, and confines it to a span, giving it a more northerly turn. The middle reach opens upon us all at once, and discovers a fine sheet of water, three miles long, and in some parts up- wards of three quarters of a mile broad, with all its winding shores and numerous little inlete. The rugged mountains to the west rise in terrific grandeur, and, above all, the broad shoulders of huge Helvell in form the distant back ground of this wild scene. The road leads, for about three miles, through Gowbarrow-park, keeping in a line with the shore, and generally through groves of trees and brushwood, which form the most de- lightful vistas and glades. The waters of the lake, shining like a mirror, appear doubly beau- tiful, when partially seen through these openings of the groves. Sometimes the thickets dilate so far as to afford a full view\ The opposite moun- tains of E irk -fell and Place-fell, present craggy 5 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 109 uneven, and generallj naked surfaces, and rise rapidly from the very water's edge. — On tliisside the mountains ascend more gently, and leave a space of low ground along the border of the lake. This extensive park belongs to the Duke ofNoR- FOLK, and is said to contain 1800 acres of land, and 600 head of deer, besides great numbers of sheep and cattle. Many of the old oaks, -which once contributed to ornament the scene, have been cut down. — The scenery now increases in beauty as we advance : yawning rocks, " silvered o'er with age," with trees and evergreen shrubs spring- ing from their crevices, stare across the lake. Again, nothing but broken rough woodlands ap- pear ; and now shelving rocky knolls strike the eye. Here Lyulph's Tower, at a little distance from the road, is a pleasing object : it is a square grey edifice, with turreted corners, battlements and windows in the Gothic style, erected by the present Duke of Norfolk in a most delightful situation, abounding with views of the grand and sublime. Not far from that structure there is a fine cascade, worth the notice of those who de^ light in natural curiosities of this nature. We now reach the second bend of the lake, and see the last stretch, of about a mile and a half in length, with a view into the gorge of Patter* dalco Th|s, with its environs, is the most pica L 110 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR turesque arm of the lake. It is spotted witli three or four small rocky islands, making a noble sweep round Place-fell, which mounts abruptly from the opposite shore to an immense height. On this side the woody knolls project from the sides of the adjoining mountains, rocky cliffs hang over the road, and, at intervals, we gain a peep into a sweetly retired dell, overhung with im- pending woods and darkened with towering mountains. — Glencoyn, a small triangular farm, and one of the most delightful retreats we have seen, appears on the right. The farm-house, buried in a grove of trees, stands near one of the angles, under the shade of high wooded rocks on each side, which form a striking contrast with a few beautiful level fields stretching to the lake, and affording, through straggling trees, a com- plete view of its middle reach . The road now winds gently ofver a rocky promontory, when the view becomes so extended as to comprehend the whole lake, except the lowest arm. The water laves the rocks below, while the ponderous cliffs above, crowned with trees^ hang over our heads in terrific grandeur. We continue our route through woods, grove?, and meadows, with a continued diversity of scenery, to the head of the lake, where the mountains close in, and appa- sently leave no more than a narrow glen above. Here we see the church of Patterdale. and a few GUIDE TO THE LAKES^ 111 straggling farm-houses peeping out in the most romantic situations. Fatterdale-Hall, the resi« sidenceof J. Mounsey, Esq. stands pleasantly at the mouth of the deil wliich opens near the head of the lake. The ancestors of this respect- able gentleman (wlio is an active magistrate for the county of Westmoreland) have, for ages, ob- tained the distinguished appellation of Kings of Patterdale ; probably on account of their pos- sessing more property than any of their neigh- bours in this sequestered dale. From a rock im- mediately behind the little inn called the King's Arms, there is a fine view over the first reach of the lake ; having Gowbarrov^^-park in the back ground : a most beautiful range of rocky steeps, generally covered with trees, forms the side skreen on tlie left ; while the naked breast of Place-fell constitutes that on the right. From hence the road, which leads to Am- bleside, about ten miles, is truly an Alpine pass, winding in a contracted vale, with a high and naked mountain on the left. The valley is plea" singly undulated, and abundantly scattered over with trees. — The rocky hills on the right contain quarries of fine blue slate, which is conveyed down the lake in boats to Pooley, &c. Brooks as clear as crystal push down from the surround- ing eminences into a little river called Goldrill 1. 2 112 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; Oil Beck, which issues from a small lake called Broad- water, which, at no great distance, spreads out its waters at our feet. The road runs along the eastern side of this lake up to the head of the vale, which is closed in. bj mountains on every side, except that which we have just explored. Here every thing around assumes a barren and forbidding aspect, exchanging the mild climate of the peaceful vale for the wild and inhospitable regions before us. A steep and rugged path as- cends to the heights of Kirkstone, meeting the noisy waters of an angry brook tumbling over its rocky channel. The road on each side is strew- ed wit]i the large fragments of rocks that have from time to time been severed from the frowning cliffs above. About half way up the mountain we find an opening, which admits a passage to the other side ; from thence we descend for some miles, through a dreary and mountainous coun- try, to Ambleside. The contrast between this'de- solate region, which we have just traversed, and the delightful vale and lake of Windermere, which, from the higher part of the road, present themselves to our view, is agreeable, and won- derfully surprising. But, as we shall have occasion, in the suc- ceeding pages of this work, to notice the pic- aresque scenery in this district, and as this is a GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 113 route \vc would by no means recommend to those who wish to make a complete tour, we will con- duct the traveller back from Patterdale to Pooley — and for the sake of variety, recommend him to take a boat and navigate the lake, when the vari- ous objects, with which he was before so much delighted, will appear in equally pleasing, but different points of view. Before we quit Ulls-water, we must men- tion those surprising echoes, which the report of a swivel will excite. — Of tliese Mr. Hutchin- son, in his Excursion to the Lakes, page 65, gives the following description : — Having land- ed on the shores of a bay opposite to Watermil- lock, he proceeds thus : — " Whilst v/e sat to re- gale, the barge put off from shore to a station where the finest echoes were to be obtained from the surrounding mountains. — The vessel was pro- vided with six brass cannon, mounted on swivels ; —-on discharging one of these pieces, the report was echoed from the opposite rocks, where, by reverberation, it seemed to roll from cliff to cliff, and return through every cave and valley, till the decreasing tumult gradually died i^way upoa the ear. " The instant it had ceased, the sound of every distant water-fall was heard ; but for un h 3 Hi A DESCniPTIVE TOUR ; OR instant only ; for the momentary stillness \\as iii- terriipted bj the returning echo on the hills be- hind, where the report was repeated like a peal ofthunder bursting over our heads, continuing for several seconds, flying from haunt to haunt, till once more the sound gradually declines ; — — again the voice of water-falls possessed the in- terval, — till, to the right, the more distant tlmn- der arose upon some other mountain, and seemed to take its way up every winding dell and creek, sometimes behind, on this side, or on that, in wonderous speed, running its dreadful course. When the echo reacheJ the mountains within the line and channel of the breeze, it was heard at once on the right and left, at the extremities of the lake. In this manner was the report of every discharge re-echoed seven times distinctly. '^ At intervals we were relieved from this entertainment, which consisted of a kind of won- derous tumult and grandeur of confusion, by the music of two French horns, whose harmony was repeated from every recess which echo haunted on the borders of the lake ; — here the breathings of the organ were imitated ; there the bassoons with clarinets ; — in this place, from the harsher sounding cliffs, the cornet ; — in that, from the wooded creek, amongst the cavern and the trill- ing water-'falls, we heard the soft- toned lute, ac* GUIDE TO THE LAKES. IIB compaiiicd vvitli tlie languishing strains of ena- moured nymphs ; whilst in the copse and grove was still retained the music of the horns. All this vast theatre was possessed by innumerable serial beings-, who breathed celestial harmony. " vis we finished our repast, a general dis- charge of the guns roused us to new astonish- ment. Although we had heard with great sur- piisethe former echoes, this exceeded them so much, that it seemed incredible ; for on every hand the sounds were reverberated and returned from side to side, so as to give the semblance of that confusion and horrid uproar, which the fall- ing of tliese stupendous rocks would occasion, if, by some internal combustion, they were rent to pieces and hurled into the lake." CiiARR is sometimes caught in this lake, but in no great quantities. It, however, abounds with a variety of other fish . Trout of 30 pounds weight and upwards, of a particular species, are frequently caught ; and also eels of a large size and of the finest quality. From Pooley, either return to Penrith, or rather take the nearer and more direct road to Keswick, by way of Dacre, having Dacre Castle on tlie right, and enter the Penrith road neay 116 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR Hutlon John, an old castle-like mansion on the left, about ten miles from Keswick. — From Dacre to Penruddock the country is pleasing, with a good road, through winding lanes, and a variety of prospects, particularly to the north, where, at a few miles distance, the castle, church, and vil- lage of Graystock, with an extensive deer-park, are striking and conspicuous objects. Leaving Penruddock, we cross a dreary moor of considerable extent, and descend through the peaceful vaVs of Grisdale and Threlkeld, having Saddleback on the right, and, on the ]e^iy a heavy, dull mountain, branching from huge Helveilin, whose top is seen rearing into the airy As our route now skirts the base of Saddle- back, we presume the following pleasing des- cription of that mountain, inserted by Mr. Hut- chinson, in his History of Cumberland, will here be acceptable to our readers : — " A friend,'* lie says, *' has indulged us with the following description of his view of Saddleback, and the cu- rious crater and lake there, where the lava of a volcmo.is unquestionably to be found in large quantities.* His tour was made in 1793. * " Near Crummock-water is a place which bear* the aame of Cr-atsr, evidently the crater of a volcsjio." CfUIDE TO THE LAKES, 117 *^,He Speaks with great respect, in ttie first instance, of one Mr. John Graves, wbo gave him the earliest description of those scenes, and excited his curiosity to visit them ; and of Mr. Thomas Clement, a resident of the skirts of the mountain, who attended him and his party on the view. It was remarked io our friend, that travellers who made the tour of the lakes general- ly visited Skiddaw, and left Saddleback unex- plored, whence they might indulge the eye with as extensive and pleasing prospects as they could by ascendmg the sister mountain ; besides the curious view of Scales tarn, which is herein after described, — He adds, he had at some distant time, seen Scales tarn described in some periodi- cal publication, but diligent search had not res- tored the description to him. He says Mr. Cle- ment lives about a mile and a half eastward of Threlkeld, at the foot of the mountain, from whose house the party proceeded about one o'clock, p. ??7.--That they made their passage in an oblique direction up that part which is called Scales-fell ; and he proceeds in his description thus : — ' When we had ascended about a mile, ' one of the party, on looking round, was so as- ^ tonished with the different appearance of ob- ^ jects in the valley, so far beneath us, that he de- ' clined proceeding. We had not gone much ^ further^ till the other companion (of the relator) 118 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR J Olt * was suddenly taken ill, and wished to lose ^ blood, and return. I was almost ready (adds * he) to give up my project, which I should * have done with great reluctance, as the day * was remarkably favourable, and exhibited every ^ scene to the greatest advantage. — Mr. Cle- * MENT assured us, if we proceeded a little way, ' we should find a resting place, where the second ^ defaulter of our party might recover the effects * of his journey. After labouring another half ^ hour, we gained the margin of an immense ca- * vity, in the side of the mountain, the bottom of * which formed a wide bason, and was filled with ' water, that from our station looked black, ^ though smooth as glass, covering the space of ^ several acres, t It is said to be so deep, that ^ the sun never shines upon it, and that the re- ^ flection of the stars may be seen therein at noon- ^ day ; but that was a curiosity we did not en- * joy. From our station there was a gentle de- ^ clivity to a smooth and verdant lawn, several ^ yards in breadth, which was the situation ^ our guide had promised us ; and the des- * cent thereto led us about half-way to the lake : f " Some visitors, as well as Mr. Graves, have said that the lake contains thirty-five acres — our correspondent appre- hends that it is not less than twenty acres in dimension." GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 119 ' a like easy descent would have led us to the ' edge of the lake, round which there appeared a ^ broad green walk ; but our leader informing us ^ of the danger of passing that slippery path, we ' did not proceed. We now contemplated the ^ scene with awe-struck wonder. — We stood di- ^ rectly facing the middle of the mountain, the ^ form of which gives it the name of Saddleback / ^ and to the lake a perpendicular rocky preci-* ^ pice presented itself, extending to the north-* ^ east side of the mountain, called FouUcrag. To ^ the right hand the steepness of the rocks gradu«» ^ ally declined ; above us, and on the left, they ^ were stupendous and perpendicular ; so that in ^ one half of the circle the rocks were lofty and ' precipitous, whilst in the other half they gra* ^ dually decreased. My fellow-traveller would ^ proceed no further; and, with my guide, I was ^ left to explore the other parts of the mountain, ^ AVinding round, and keeping tlic cavity on our ^ right, we attained the ridge or summit of the ' rock, where we found a passage three or four ^ yards broad — on the right, the descent to the ^ lake looked truly awful ; Avhilst the steep rocks ' on the other side were lofty, and not to be ' climbed by human steps. This passage, some ' hundred yards in length, may be compared to a ' bridge covered with grass. Having reached ^ the summit, we went to the. point nearest to 120 A DESCEIPTIVE TOUR 5 OR ^ Keswick vale, and there enjoyed a most delight- • ful prospect ; from thence we passed to the ^ next point, being Foul-crag, with Skiddaw on ^ the left ; from whence we looked down into a ' dreadful abyss, the bottom of which the eye ' could not penetrate : sheep frequently perish • in this place, as the number of dead carcasses ' and skeletons evinced. — We walked back by ^ the side next to the lake ; but to look down ^ from thence was so terrible, I could not endure ^ it a moment. We perceived from thence, that ' my companion, whom we had last left, was lai,d ^ upon the ground ; I pressed the guide to has- ' ten to him, but he refused, alledging that a fog ' was rising, and it would be very hazardous for ' me to explore my way alone down tlie moun- ' tain : in a short time we were enveloped in a ' very dense vapour, so' that we were obliged to ' keep near to each other ; the sudden change ' was almost incredible. It was with difficulty • my guide regained the passage, or dry bridge, • which we missed on several attempts ; and one • incautious step would have plunged us in the ' horrid abyss. The fog soon afterwards dispersed, ' as precipitately as it came on, and left us again ' under a serene sky. We passed to the foot of ' Foul-crag, to view its wonderful precipices from ' their base ; and again reached Mr. Glement^s ' house, after a laborious travel of four hours. GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 121 • On the side of the mountain we found se- veral large plots oHhe Lj/copodium Clavatum, or club-moss ; the creeping branches of which were closely matted and interwoveuj and form- ed a carpet that seemed to surpass the work- manship of the finest artists.' " Nothing very interesting is observed, till, passing the village of Threlkeld, the beautiful vale of St. John opens obliquely to the view. Here a curious castle-like rock presents itself, which has been deservedly admired, and descri- bed by several tourists. Mr, Hutchinson speaks of it thus (Excursion to the Lakes, page 121) : — r" We now gained a view of the vale of St. John's, a very narrow deli, hemmed in by mountains, through which a small brook makes many meandrings, washing little inclosures of grass ground, which stretch up the risings of the hills. In the widest part of the dale you are struck with the appearance of an ancient ruined casllej wliich seems to stand up(>n the summit of a little mount, the mountains around forming an amphitheatre. This massive bulwark shews" a front of various towers, adid makes an awful, rude, and Gothic appearance, with its lofty turrets and ragged battlements : — we traced the galleries, the bending arches,, the buttresses. The greatest antiquity stands characterizecj in its architect M 122 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR ture ; the inhabitants near it assert it is an ante- diluvian structure. '^ The traveller's curiosity is roused ^ and he prepares to make a nearer approach, when that curiosity is put upon the rack, by his being assured that^ if he advances, certain genii who govern the place, by virtue of their supernatu- ral art& and necromancy, will strip it of all its beauties 3 and by inchantment transform the ma- gic walls. The vale seems adapted for the habi- tation of such beings ; — its gloomy recesses and retirements look like haunts of evil spirits. There was no delusion in the report ; we were soon convinced of its truth ; — for this piece of antiquity, so venerable and noble in its aspect, as we drew near, changed its figure, and proved no other than a shaken massive pile of rocks, which stand in the midst of this little vale^ disunited from the adjoining mountains, and have so much the real form and resemblance of a castle, that they bear the name of The Castle Mocl'^ of Sf, John's, " The delusion alTordedus matter of laugh- ter, till we descended towards the vale of Kes« wick." The same learned autlior also mentions a re- GUIDE TO tllE LAKES. 12S markable thunderstorm which took place there in August, 1749, (page 122) :—'' On the22dofAu. gust^ 1749, by impetuous rains, a remarkable flood happened in the vale of St. John's : the clouds discharged their torrents like a water- spout ; — the streams from the mountains uniting, at length became so powerful a body, as to rend up the soil, gravel, and stones, to a prodigious depth, and bear with them mighty fragments of rocks ; — several cottages were swept away from the declivities where they had stood in safety for a century ; the vale was deluged, and many of the inhabitants with their cattle were lost. A singular providence protected many lives : — a little school, where all the youths of the neigh- bourhood were educated, at the instant crowded with its flock, stood in the very line of one of these torrents ; but the hand of God, in a mira- culous manner, stayed a rolling rock in th© midst of its dreadful course, which would have crushed the whole tenement with its innocents ; and, by its stand, the floods divided, and passed on this hand and on that, insulating the school- liouse, and leaving the pupils, with their master, trembling, at once, for the dangers escaped, and as spectators of the horrid havock in the valley, and the tremendous floods which encompassed them on every side. I received this account on my journey from one of the people then at school / , M 2 124 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR — but since that have met with the followinor des- cription of that inundation : — 'It began with ' most terrible thunder and incessant lio^htning, * the preceding day having been extremely hot ^ and sultry ; the inhabitants, for two hours be- ' fore the breaking of the cloud, heard a strange ' noise, like the wind blowing in the tops of high ' trees. It is thought to have been a spout or ^ large body of water, which, by the lightning in- ^ cessantly rarefying the air, broke at once on ' the tops of the mountains, and descended upon ' the valley below, which is about three miles ' long, half a mile broad, and lies nearly east and ' west, being closed on the south and north sides * with prodigious high, steep, and rocky raoun- * tains. — Legbert Fells, on the north side, re- * ceived almost the whole cataract, for the spout * did not extend above a mile in length : it * chiefly swelled four small brooks ; but to so ^ amazing a degree, that the largest of them, call- ^ ed Catcheety GiU, swept away a mill and other ^ edifices in five minutes, leaving the place where ^ they stood covered with fragments of rocks and * rubbish three or four yards deep, insomuch ' that one of the millstones could not be found. * During the violence of the storm, the frag- ' ments of rocks which rolled down the moun- ' tain choaked up the old course of this brook ; ^ but the water forcing its way through a shivery GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 125 ^ voek, formed a chasm four yards wide, and ^ about eight or nine deep. — The brooks lodged * such quantities of gravel and sand on the mea* ' dows, that they were irrecoverably lost. — Ma- * ny large pieces of rocks were carried a consider- ' able way into the fields ; some larger than a ^ team often horses could move, and one of them ^ measuring nineteen yards about.' " About a mile and a half from Keswick, a druidical temple is situated, in a field on the left, adjoining the road. This remarkable piece of antiquity consists of a rude circle of large stones, some standing upright, some fallen down, and others leaning obliquely. The stones are in a na» tural and unhewn state, most of them a species of granite, and are 50 in number. The diameter of the circle, or oval, is SO paces by 32. — At the eastern end, a small inclosure is formed within the circle by 10 stones, making an oblong square, in conjunction with the stones of that side of the circle, seven paces in length and three in width, within where, it is conjectured, the altar was erected . Not far from hence, we gain a view of the en- chanting vale of Keswick, widely extended be- tween the lakes of Derwent and Bassenthwaite, a small portion of each being now in sight. The former appears much distended, and beautifully spotted with islands -, while the latter has only M 3 126 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR tlie semblance of a large river. This scene is greatly heiglitened by a back-ground of Alpine mountains, thrown into the rudest order imagina- ble. — The road from hence descends rapidly to the town of Keswick, leaving the beautifully smooth and verdant mountain Latrigg on the right, above which lofty Skiddaw lifts his brows in sullen and majestic grandeur. Keswick is a small but neat and pleasant market-town, and, in general, welUbuilt ; with some good inns for the accommodation oi travel- lers ; and a weekly market on Saturdays, chiefly for woollen yarn (spun in the adjacent dales) a variety of fish from the lakes, and the finest mut- ton in the kingdom. — A cotton factory has lately been established here ; and coarse woollen goods, kerseys, and some linen, are also manufactured. — The town is pleasantly situated on the eastern side of an extensive and fertile vale, near the lower end of Derwent lake ; and, from its central situation, is much frequented by strangers, on their tour to the lakes and other curiosities in this neighbourhood. — The distant prospect of the beauties of Keswick must naturally ex- cite the curiosity of every traveller, and ren- der them impatient to take a nearer view of those romantic scenes around the matchless lake of GUIDE TO tHE LAKES. 127 DERWENT'WATER, which is about three miles long, and a mile and a half over in the broadest part, forming an irregu- lar figure. — Its beauties may be seen to advan- tage either by sailing on its bosom, or traversing its borders ; there being an excellent road on each side, which, in some parts, is considerably elevated, and in others nearly on a level with the surface of the water. First walk to Ciow-park, a gentle emi- nence, once a grove of oaks, but now a beautiful pasture, swelling gently from the adjacent grounds. From the summit of this hill, which is scarcely 200 yards from tlie town of Keswick, and adjoining the lake, we have one of the finest views of this delightful vale. Before us a beau- tiful sheet of water, as transparent as crystal, dis- tends its sides to a great width ; its bosom is va- riegated with wooded islands, and the whole guarded with legions of mountains rearing their heads to the skies, and hovering over the lake in the most grotesque figures. Turning to the left, towards the head of the lake, we look full into the frightful jaws of Borrowdale ; and on the right, majestic Skiddaw, with smoother sides, is seen arresting every cloud that passes. Ij.dKi:S in ClfMBERLAJS^D. €?tyt€^tl^^()tZ^^ Jf. SoTttyia^f GtllDE TO THE LAKES, 135 (Jaw, with a mild countenance, rises majesticalJy to the skies, smiling over his more savage neigh- bours, and forming an excellent back-ground to the whole. Turning to the other hand, the scene be^ comes sublimely terrible ; the rocky mountains strangely intersect each other, and are huddled together in the most extraordinary arrangement, as if just emerging from, or returning to the wild- est chaos : rock riots over rock, ^iid mountain triumphs over mountain. Among the numerous crags of immense height and magnitude, riiany of which are nameless to all except a few shepherds, is Eagle- Crag, so called from the bird of Jqyc having his annual nest thereon. These nests are generally plundered by the neighbouring shep- herds^ who, taking advantage of the absence of the parent birds, let down one of their compaHJi" ons from the summit of this dreadful rock to ihe nest, about twenty fathoms, by means of a rope. The carnage made among the lambs hy these birds of prey, during the breeding season, is con- siderable, viz. about a lamb a day ; consequently we need not wonder that the shepherds venture so far to efiect the destruction of the young eagles. Before we leave the summit of Castle-Crag« we must notice the remains of a fort, which, -v-<^<^v/r//w//^- J^ O-^^/y/^ (f^rr/^ -^tT^ytc^l^/^c^riA- 136 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR from some articles found thereon, appears to have been of Roman origin ; erected, perhaps, to guard the pass, or more probably, to secure the treasure contained in the bosom of these moun- tains. The Saxons, and after them, the monks of Furness, are said to have maintained this fort for the same purpose ; and as all Borrowdale be- longed to that religious body, they are supposed to have laid up, at Grange, near the foot of this mountain, their grain, their tithe, and also their salt, made at a salt spring in the neighbourhood. The dimensions of the castellum are about 70 yards by 40. If the visitor is already satisfied "with the rugged scenes of nature, and h's curio- sity prompts him not to proceed further into the vale of Borrowdale, let him descend to the vil- lage of Grange, and return down the contrary side of the lake, through the woods of Lord William Gordon. — Opposite to the head of the lake, a station, on a woody rock near the road, shews its beauty and grandeur in a new and surprising point of view. — Not far from this, we enter upon an excellent new road, made by Lord William Gordon : it is easy, smooth, and perfectly safe, and, from its elevation, commands a complete view of the lake and its various ac- companiments. — We first wind through a wood to a naked rocky mountain, along the side of which the road ascends gently and regularly to GUII5E TO THE LAKES. 137 tlie upper corner of Brandelow-Park, with an open view to the lake. Here we find ourselves among lead-mines, which, however, are not at present very productive. The road, after run- ning parallel to the upper wall of Brandelow- Park to another open district, proceeds on a level for a considerable distance along the verdant breast of a high and steep mountain, winding in- to the dells, and around some gentle protuberan- ces, with a pleasing variety of prospects. Here nothing obstructs our view of the various beau- ties of the scene. Above us, the mountain, on whose skirts we are now treading, rises abruptly into the cloudy regions, the very summit of which is spotted with a hardy breed of sheep, ^hat support themselves thereon. On the opposite side of the lake the white foam of Lodore cata- ract is distinctly seen, together with Lodore- House, the little white inn, and other prominent objects, as if stuck to the base of the mountain ; but the beauty of the several parts is destroyed by the distance. On one hand we have Brande- low-Park, and on the other Foe-Park, with Wa- ter-End, the little rom.antic seat of Lord Wil- liam Gordon, peeping from the wood, at our feet, and opening to the widest part of the lake, at the extremity of a fine bay, which washes its very walls. — With an easy descent we enter the vale of Newlands, which opens into that of Kes- N 3 13S A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; Oil wick ; and, winding round Foe-Park, we ap- proach the foot of Swinside, a little green-sided mountain which intersects the vale. Ascend this hill, and from its side there is a full view of Der- went and Bassenthwaite lakes, with their indent- ed shores, monstrous side skreens, and all the in- tervening vale, if this place is visited in the evening, when the departing rays of the sotting sun tinge the tops of the mountains, the prospect is doubly interesting. After enjoying this scene, return to the road, which leads past one of Mr. Pocklington's bouses to the village of Portin- scale, and, crossing the river Derwent, we travel about two miles obliquely across an extensive level vale to Keswick. Should this last roIl^e, however, be reserved for some future excursion, and the visitor wish to explore the very farthest recesses of these mountainous regions, let him proceed from Cas- tle-Crag up the chasm of Borrowdale, which soon becomes so wide as to admit a strip of culti- vated ground ; while many of the rocky fronts of the hills are softenec^ with hanging woods. The village of Rosthwaite is seated in a most secluded corner ; and, a little beyond, we reach Borrow- dale Chapel, where the vale divides to the right and left^ with a narrow road up each valley : that on the left leads to Kawkshead and Amble- GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 1^9 side, over a high mountain, called Stake. — This Alpine pass is one of the wildest imaginable for about eight miles ; but in seasonable summer weather it affords much amusement. The dale soon becomes so narrow as to exclude entirely all cultivation ; the skirts of the mountains are clad in verdure, with pleasing sylvan scenes from the chapel to the Stake. A serpentine path then winds up the mountain, with a variety of cataracts in view, and afterwards descends in the same zigzag manner into the vale of Langdale, accom- panied by a succession of sounding waterfalls. — Langdale Pike, an inaccessible pyramidical rock, and other pointed eminences, here present them- selves.— Pavey ark is a hanging rock, said to be 600 feet in height, in whose bosom is a large ba- son of water, called Stickle-tarn, which empties itself in a cataract at Mill-beck. A little lower down, a dreadful yawning chasm opens to the centre of Whitegill-crag. — After passing Lang- dale Chapel, the vale becomes more pleasing, with a good road to Hawkshead, or Ambleside, by Scalewith-bridge , The road from Borrowdale Chapel, on the Tight, leads over Sty head to Wastdale, Wastwa- ter-lake, Ravenglass, &c. In this route we soon come opposite the famous wad, or black-lead mine^ which is seen opening about half-way up 140 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR the mountain on the right ; below the mouth of the mine, the brown earth thrown out in the working streams down the hill, and shews the si- tuation of this singular mineral. The vale now becomes more contracted, bleak, naked, and less pleasing ; it is washed by a principal branch of the Derwent, which here marks its course with desolation occasioned by the torrents, poured down in rainy seasons, carrying away hedges, roads, and every thing that obstructs its passage. — Here we pass the little village of Seathwaite, deeply intrenched in mountains, and on which, it is said, the sun never shines in the depth of Winter ; consequently, when his rays gild tlie chimney tops at noon-day, it is a welcome signal of the approach of cheerful Spring. The last vestiges of human industry now disappear, and we see the termination of the vale closed in by a mountain running across, down the sides of which the Derwent pours in a long, steep, and roaring cataract. A dim shepherd's track conducts the traveller up this mountain with a painful and dif- ficult ascent. As we mount the hill, the Der- went tumbles down on the right ; and reaching the top, we again meet it in a more calm and peaceful mood. After travelling a little further, we reach a small lake, called Sparkling-tarn, which is one principal source of the river Der- went. We afterwards meet with a small brook jncdaotr GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 141 running in a contrary direction ; following the course of which, we soon gain a view into Wast- dale, which forms a remarkable contrast with the Tale we have just left. The mountains on each side rise to an immense height, and almost meet at their bases i some of then lean their rocky iieads towards each other from the opposite sides of the vale, » as if wishing to embrace ; while others rise perpendicularly, with their sides co- vered with loose stones, which shiver down in long streamers of different colours, somewhat re- sembling, in appearance, the Aurora Borealis* The vale appears a most delightful recess, but, from hence, seems sunk much below the common level of the earth. The road now descends, sometimes over rocks, so rapidly, that it is travel- led on, not only with difficulty, but with danger, and continues uneven till we reach the pleasing, unfrequented vale of Wastdale, where every thing is rural, and every scene in the true style of pastoral beauty and simplicity. — The road here becomes good, running along the north side of the lake, which is about three miles in length, and three quarters of a mile in breadth in the widest part. The Screes^ a very high ridge of mountains, runs along the southern shore, and the loose rocks on its sides are in an almost con- stant motion, shivering down into the water. On the north, a small tract of cultivated country in- ^^2M^^ rP^^y^ '^Mz^/^,^^^r^ 149 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR terveiies between the lake and the mountains, di- vided into small farms. — Upon the -whole, the lake and vale of Wastdale, with their encircling mountains, though perhaps not reckoned among the most picturesque, present an appearance ve- ry different to those already described. About the north end of this valley the mountains begin to lower, and afterwards diminish by degrees, till they terminate in an open country towards Ravenglass and the coasts of the Irish Sea. As travellers, in general, in their tour to tlie lakes, seldom proceed farther in this track than the black-lead mines in Borrowdale, we will re- turn back from thence to Keswick; not, however, by tbe same road we have already traced, but, for the sake of variety, ascend from Rosthwaite, over an Alpine pass, into the vale of Watenlath, which is thus accurately described by the elegant pen of Mr. Gilpin : — *' Watenlath is that tract of mountainous country (itself surrounded by mountains still higher) which, coming boldly forward, breaks down abruptly from the south, upon the vale of Keswick. The stream which forms the fall of Lodore adorns first the scenes of Watenlath, ^' Which way to Watenlath ?" said one of GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 143 our company fo a peasant, as we left the vale of Borrowdale. '^ That way," said he, pointing up a lofty mountain, steeper than the tiling of a house. " To those who are accustomed to moun- tains, these perpendicular motions may be amu- sing ; but to us, whose ideas were less elevated, they seemed rather peculiar. And yet there is something unmanly in conceiving a difficulty in traversing a path, which we were told the women of the country would ascend on horseback, with their panniers of eggs and butter, and return in the night. To move upwards, keeping a steady eye on the objects before us, was no great exer- cise for the brain ; but it rather gave it a rota- tion to look back on what was past— and to see our companions below clinging ^ as it appeared to the mountain's side ; and the rising breasts and bellies of their horses straining up a path so steep, that it seemed as if the least false step would have carried them rolling many hundred yards to the bottom, "We had another apprehension — ^that of mistaking our way. If a mist had suddenly overspread the mountain, which is a very com- mon incident, we might have wandered all night j for we had not the precaution to take a 144 OR guide. The question we asked of the peasant, at the bottom of the mountain, '^ Which waj/ to Watenlath ?" we found was a very improper one. We should have asked in what direction we were to seek it ? For way there was none, except here and there a blind path, which being itself often bewildered, of course served only to bewilder us. The inhabitants pay little attention to paths V they steer along these wilds by land' marks which to us were unknown. *' At length, however, after a painful per- pendicular march of near two miles, and many a breathing pause, which our horses required, we gained the top. Here we expected at least to be rewarded by an amusing prospect over the neigh- bouring country. But in this too we were disap- pointed. We found ourselves in the midst of a bog, with still higher grounds around us ; so that, after all our toil, we had a view only of a vile circumscribed waste. '^ It was our business now to get out of this unpleasant scene as soon as we could, which was a matter of no great difficulty. An easy and short descent on the other side of the moun- tain, brought us quickly to Watenlath. Here our labours were amply rewarded. We fell in- to a piece of scenery, which, for beauty and gran^ GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 145 deur, ^vas equal, if not superior, to aiiy thing we had yet seen. ''The first object we found was a small lake, about two miles in circumference, through -which jSows the Lodore, and, after a course of. three miles farther, forms that noble cascade, which we had seen in the morning at the head of the Derwent- water, "The accompaniments of this river, from the lake of Watenlath to its fall, make the scene- ry of which we came hither in quest. '' It is a valley so contracted, that it affords room for little more than the river, and a path at the bottom : while the mountains, on each side, are so perpendicular, that their summits are scarce more asunder than their bases. It was a new idea. Many mountains we had seen hang- ing over the sides of valleys ; but to be immured for a space of almost three miles, within a chasm of rifted rocks (for that was in fact the idea pre- sented by the scene before us) was a novel cir- cumstance, though we had now been two or three days the inhabitants of mountains. " The form of this valley was very different from the valley of Borrowdale. The one led 146 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR US through^a winding- route : the otlier is nearly a vista. Each hath its mode of grandeur. The valley of Borrowdale has more variety ; but this is certainly the more majestic scene.. The whole is only one vast effort. In point of immensity in- deed it yields to the vista at the entrance into Cumberland. It is not so vast a whole ; but be- ing contracted within a smaller compass, we exa- mine its I'mits with more ease • and with regard to the grandeur and variety of the several objects, it loses nothing. As we stood under the beetling cliiTs on each side, they were too near for inspec- tion : their harsh features wanted softening : but we had noble views of them all in order, both in prospect and retrospect. Not only the design and composition, but the very strokes of Nature's pencil might be traced through the whole scene ; every fractured rock, and every hanging shrub, which adorned it, was brought within the com- pass of the eye : each touch so careless, and yet so determined : so wildly irregular ; and yet all c:onducing to one whole. •^ When we arrived at the close of the vai« ley^ the grandeur of the scene increased. It opened into an ampliitheatre, the area of which, like the valley that led to it, was contracted ; scarce containing the circumference of a mile ; but the mountains wli ich env ironed it were beautiful . GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 147 ^^ In most of tlic scenes we had passed, we were obliged to look for contrast in the different modes of desolation : but here barrenness was contrasted with all the tints of veiyetation. The mountains in front, and on the left, were covered with wood, which mantled from the top to the bottom.' Those on the right were barren; yet broken so variously, as even in themselves to make a contrast. We admire the ruins of a Ro« man amphitheatre : but what are the most mag- nificent of the works of art compared with such an amphitheatre as this ? Were the Colosseum itself brought hither, and placed within this area, the grandeur of the idea would be lost ; and the ruin, magnificent as it is, would dwindle into the ornament of a scene, '^ At the entrance of the amphitheatre, ano- ther bright mountain-torrent joins- the Lodore from the east, and forms it into a more consider- able stream. With increased velocity (the ground growing every step more declivous) it now pours along with great rapidity ; and throw- ing itself into the thickest of tlie woods, which close the scene, disappears. The imagination 13 ursucs its progress. Its roar is heard through the woods ; and it is plain from the sound, that it suffers some great convulsion. But all is close ; impervious rocks and thickets intervene, and to- o 2 148 A BESCRll'TIVE TOUR ; Olt tally exclude the sight. — We indeed had been behind the curtain^ and knew we were at that in« stant upon the summit of the fall of Lodore : but the imagination of a stranger would be held in stimulating suspence. The grandeur of the sound would proclaim the dignity of the fall ; and his eye would wish to participate of what his ear alone could inadequately judge. " Though we had seen the fall of Lodore from the bottom, we had a curiosity to see how it appeared from the top ; and* dismounting, we contrived, by winding through the thickets, and clinging to the projections of the rocks, to get a dangerous peep down the abyss. There was no- thing picturesque in the view, but something im- mensely grand. We stood now above tbose two cheeks of the chasm, through which the water forced its way ; and which in the morning, when seen from the bottom, appeared towering to a great height, and were the most interesting parts of the view. But, amidst the greatness of the objects, which nov/ surrounded them, they were totally lost ; appearing less than warts upon those vast limbs of nature, to which they adhered. " Ix our passage through the valley of Wa- tenlath, we met with many fragments of rocks, in which the several component strata were ver}- JL J'cott/ai^ Il GiriDE TO THE LAKES. 149 sfrongly marked. — In some they could not have been more regiilaiiy formed by a rule and cliissel — and in a few (whose softer lamiiue the weather had decayed) as perfect cornices remained, as art could have produced." Sailing round the lake has been generally thought the best means of seeing its beauties and accompaniments : som^, however, are of a con- ,trary opinion, though each mode has its peculiar advantages. — Embark opposite to Pockling- ton's Island, which, with the other islands, visit in succession. — Pocklington's Island, contain- ing about five or six acres, has lately undergone much alteration, at a great expence, and is cer- tainly a most beautiful spot ; but, as before ob- served, its ornaments are, by many, thought too glaring. — Mr. Pocklington lately sold this island to a gentleman in the south of England. — Here was held annually, from 1781 to 1791, that species of amusement called a Regatta. One, which took place on the 6th of September, 1782, ■was thus described in the Cumberland Pacquet, a weekly paper published at Whitehaven : — " At eight o'clock in the morning, a ya^t concourse of ladies and gentlemen appeared oil the side of the Derwent lake/ where a number of maarqueesj extending about 400 yardS; were erect- 3 ^ ' 'J^i/A^€>A^ ..^A^^y^^t^^r^y /y^^^m^a^^^a^^ 150. A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR ed for their accommodation. At twelve, suck of the company as were invited by Mr. Pockling- TON, passed over in boats to the island which bears his name ; and, on their landing, were sa- luted by a discharge of his artillery. This might properly be called the opening of the Regatta ; for, as soon as the echo of this discharge had ceased, a signal gun was fired, and five boats, which lay upon their oars (on that part of the wa- ter which runs nearest the town of Keswick) in- stantly pushed off the shore, and began the race. *^ A view from any of the attendants' boats (of which there were several) presented a scene which beggars all description. The sides of the hoary mountains were clad with spectators, and the glassy surface of the lake was variegated with a number of pleasure barges ; which, tricked out in all the gayest colours, and glittering in the rays of a meridian sun, gave a new appearance to the celebrated beauties of this matchless vale. ''The contending boats passed Pock ling - ton's Island, and, rounding St. Herbert's and Ramps-Holm, edged down by the outside of Lord's I land, describing in the race almost a perfect -ciicle 5 and, during the greatest part of it, in full view of the company. — About three o'clock, preparations were made for the shara- GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 131 attack on Pocklijitgton's Island. The fleet (consisting of several barges, armed with small cannon and musquets) retired out of view, behind Friar-Crag, to prepare for action ; previous to which, a flag of truce was sent to the Governor, with a summons to surrender upon honourable terms. A defiance was returned ; soon after which, the fleet was seen advancing, with great spirit, before the batteries, and instantly forming into a curved line, a terrible cannonade began on both sides, accompanied with a dreadful discharge of musquetry. — Tliis continued for some time, and being echoed from hill to hill, in an amazing variety of sounds, filled the ear with Whatever could produce astonishment and awe. All na- ture seemed to be in an uproar, which impressed on the awakened imagination the most lively ideas of the '' war of elements," and '^ crush of worlds." ** After a severe conflict, the enemies were driven from the attack, in great disorder. \ feu* de-joy e was then fired in the fort, and oft repeat- ed by the responsive echoes. — The fleet, after a little delay, formed again, and practising a great variety of beautiful manoeuvres, renewed the at- tack. Uproar again sprang up, and the deep- toned echoes of the mountains again joined in the solemn choius, whicb was heard to the distance 152 A D'ESCIIIPTIVE TOUIl ; Oil of ten leaprues to leeward, through tlie eastern opening of that vast amphitheatre, as far as Ap- ■plchy. " The garrison at length capitulated, and the entertainments of the water being finished, (towards the evening) tlie company moved to Keswick ; to which place, from the water's edge, a range of lamps was fixed, very happily dispo- •^ed, and a number of fire- works v/ere played off. *' An assembly-room, (which had been built for the purpose) next received the ladies and gentlemen, and a dance concluded this annual festivity ; a chain of amusements which, we may venture to assert, no other place can possibly fur- nish, and which wants only to be more universal- ly known, to render it a place'of more general re- sort than any other in the kingdom. ^^ To those whom nature's works alone can charm, this spot will, at all times, be viewed with rapture and astonishment ; but no breast, however unsusceptible of pleasure, can be indif- ferent to that display of every beauty which decks the ancient vale of Keswick on a Regatta- day." Latterly that sort of diversion has been GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 15S discontinued, not being suited to the rural sim- plicity of these peaceful and sequestered vales* St. Herbert's Island, late the property of Sir Wilfrid Lawson, contains about fouradres, planted with fir and other trees : its situation in the lake is more central. A curious octagonical grotto, or cottage, built ■with unhewn stones, mossed over, and thatched, is situated here ; its scite is near that of an ancient hut said to have been occupied by St. Herbert, the ruins of which are left untouched. From the v«stiges re- maining, it seems to have been divided into two apartments, with a little garden adjoining. Re- specting this religious recluse Mr. Hutchinson speaks thus : — ^' We landed at St. Herbert's Island, which contains about four acres of land, now co- vered with young trees, famous for being the re- sidence of St. Herbert, a priest and confessor, who, to avoid the intercourse of man, and that no* thing might withdraw his attention from Unceas- ing mortification and prayer, chose this island for his abode. The scene around him was well adapted to the severity of liis religious life— -he was surrounded with the lake, from whence he received his diet. On every hand, the voice of waterfalls excited the most solemn strains of me- IM A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR ditation — rocks and mountains were his daily prospect, inspiring his mind with ideas of the mi^ht and majesty of liis Creator ; and were suitable to his disposition of soul. Silence seem- ed to take up her eternal abode. From the situa- tion of this island. Nature hath given one half of the year to impetuous hurricanes and storms. — Here this recluse erected an hermitage, the re- mains of which appear to this day, being built of stone and mortar, formed into two apartments — the outward one, about twenty feet long and six- teen feet broad, has probably been his chapel ; the other, of narrower dimensions, his cell. '' Bede, in his History of the Church of England, writes thus of our Saint : — ' There was ' a certain priest, revered for his uprightness and ^ perfect life and manners, named Hereberte, * who had a long time been in union with the ' man of God (St. Cuthbert of Farm Isle) in ' the bond of spiritual love and friendship : for ' living a solitary life in the isle of that great and * extended lake from whence proceeds -the river ' of Derwent, he used to visit St. Cuthbert ' every year, to receive from his 'lips tlie doctrine ' of eternal life. When this holy priest heard of ' St. Cuthbert's coming to Luguballia, he ' came, after his usual manner, desiring to be ' comforted more and more with the hopes of GUIDE TO THE LAKES. Ib5 ^ overlasdng bliss bj his divine exhortations. As ' tlicj sat together, and enjoyed the hopes oi ^ heaven, among other things, the Bishop said^ ^' Remember, brother Hereberte, that what- ^ soever ye have to say and ask of me, you do it ^ now, for after we depart hence, we shall not ' meet again, and see one another corporally in ' this world for I know well the time of my dis- ' solution is at hand, and the laying aside of this ^ earthly tabernacle draweth on apace." When ' Hereberte heard this, he fell down at his feet, ' and, with many sighs and tears, beseeched ' himj for the love of the Lord, that he would ^ not forsake hira, but to remember his faithful ' brother and associate, and make intercession ' with the gracious God, that they might depart ^ hence into heaven together, to behold his grace ' and glory wliom they had in unity of spirit ^ served on earth : for you know I have ever ' studied and laboured to live according to your ^ pious and virtuous instructions ; and in what- ' soever I oiiended or omitted through ignorance * and frailty, I straightway used my earnest ef- ' forts to amend after your ghostly counsel, will, ' and judgment. — At this earnest and affectionate ^ request of Hereberte's, the Bishop went to ^ prayer, and presently being certified in spirit ' that his petition to heaven would be granted — •. '^ Arise," said he, ^'' vc^y dear brother 3 weep lb& A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR ^ not, but let your rejoicing be with exceediug * gladness, for the great mercy of God hath ' granted unto us our prayer." — The truth of ^ which promise and prophecy was well proved ^ in that which ensued ; for their separation was ^ the last that befel them on earth : on the same ^ day, which was the 19th day of March, their ^ souls departed from their bodies, and were ' straight in union in the beatific sight and vision ^ — and were transported hence to the kingdom ' of heaven by the service and hands of angels.' /^ It is probable the hermit's little oratory, or chapel, mightbekept in repair after his death, as a particular veneration appears to Iiave been paid by the religious of after ages to this retreat, and the memory of the Saint. — There is a vari- ance in the account given by authors of the day of the Saint's death : Bede says the 19th day of March ; other authors on the 20th day of May, A. D. 687 ; and, by a record given in Bishop Appleby's Register, it should appear that the 13th day of April was observed as the solemn an- niversary. But, however, in the year 1ST4, at the distance of almost seven centuries, we find this place resorted to in holy services and pro- cession, and the hermit's memory celebrated in religious offices." — History of Cumberland, vol, ii. p. 170. I GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 157 Mr, Gilpin says—'' If a painter were desi- rous of studying the whole circumference of the lake from one station, St. Her berths Island is the spot he should chuse, from whence, as from a centre, he might see it in rotation. I have seen a set of drawings taken from this island, which were hung round a circular room, and intended to give a general idea of the boundaries of the lake. But, as no representation could be given of the lake itself, the idea was lost, and the draw- ings made but an awkward appearance." Mr, Pennant, who navigated the lake, des- cribes the prospects from thence as follows ; — '' The views on every side are very differ- ent ; here all the possible variety of Alpine scenery is exhibited, with the horror of precipice, broken crag, overhanging rock, or insulated py- ramidal hills, contrasted with others whose smooth and verdant sides, swelling into immense aerial heights, at once please and surprise the eye, ^' The two extremities of the lake afford most discordant prospects : the southern is a composition of all that is horrible ; an immense chasm opens, whose entrance is divided by a rude conic hill, once topt with a castle, the ha- bitatipn of the tyrant of the rocks ; beyond, a 158 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR J Oil series of broken mountainous crags, now patched with snow, soar one above the other, overshadow- ing the dark winding" deep of Borrowdale. In the recesses arc lodged variety of minerals. Sec. " But the opposite, or northern view, is in all respects a strong and beautiful contrast. Skid- daw shews its vast base, and, bounding all that part of the vale, rises gently to a height that sinks the neighbouring hills ; opens a pleasing front, smooth and verdant, smiling over the coun- try like a gentle generous lord ; while the fells of Borrowdale frown on it like a hardened tyrant. " Each boundary of the lake seems to take part with the extremities, and emulates their ap- pearance : the southern varies in rocks of differ- ent forms, from the tremendous precipice of Lady^-leap, the broken front of Falcon's nest, to the more distant concave curvature of Lodore, an extent of precipitous rock, with trees vegeta- ting from their numerous fissures, and the fuam of a cataract preciptating amidst. '• The entrance into Borrowdale divides the 8ccne, and the northern side alters into milder forms ; a salt spring, once the property of the monks of Furness, trickles along the shore ; hills (the resort of shepherds) with downy fronts, and GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 159 lofty summits, succeed, with wood clothing their bases to the water's edge. " Not fai>from hence the environs appear to the navigator of the lake to the greatest advan- tage ; for, on every side, mountains close tlie prospect, and form an amphitheatre almost matchless, '' The isles that decorate this water are fine- ly disposed, and very distinct ; rise witli gentle and regular curvatures above the surface ; con- sist of verdant turf, or are planted with varipus trees. The principal is Lord's Island, above five acres, where the Ratcliff family had some time its residence ; and, from this lake, took th^ title of Derwentwateii. '* St. Herbert's Island was noted for the residence of that Saint, the bosom friend of St. ' CuTHBERT, who wishcd, and obtained his desire of departing this life on the same day, hour, and minute, with that holy man. *^ The Avater of Dervvcnt-waler is subject t& violent agitations, and often without any apparent cause, as was the case this day ; the weather was calin, yet the waves ran a grent height, and the boat was tossed violently with what is called a p 2 160 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR bottom-wind,''^ — Besides other prospects from the boat, the surprising transparency of the water (in clear weather) renders the bottom of the lake vi- sible in almost every part, which is beautifully bespangled with smooth pebbles, spar, &c. and over which various sorts of fish may be observed, in clear calm weather, gamboling and swimming to and fro. Some writers recommend a voyage on the lake hy moonlight on a still evening, when the distant waterfalls will be heard playing in differ- ent notes ; this, added to the reflecting light of the moon on the smooth surface of the water, the deep shades of the lowering mountains, and ma- ny other pleasing objects, must certainly make such an excursion highly interesting. Mr. Hutchinson, in his History of Cum- berland, gives the following beautiful description of his voyage by moonlight : — " We began our voyage soon after the moon was risen, and had illumined the top of Skiddaw, but, from the in- tercepting mountains, had not (within the ascent of an hour) reached the lake : we were surround- ed with a solemn gloom ; the stillness of the evening rendered the voice of the waterfalls tre* mendous, as they in all their variety of sounds were re-echoed from every cliff=— The summit'* GUIDE to THE LAKES. 161 of the locks, wlicn they began to receive the ri- sing rays, appeared as if crowned with turrets .of '^iilver, liom which the stars departed for their' nightly round. As the gloom below grew^ deep- er, objects around us seemed to rise in view, as surging on tlie first morning from chaos. The water was a plain of sable, studded over witli gems reflected from the starry firmament ; the groves which hung upon the feet of the mountains were rapt in darkness ; and all below was one grave and majestic circle of Skiddaw, * till the moon, ' Rising in cloudy majesty, at length, * Apparent queen, unveil'd her peerless light, * And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw ;* when the long protracted shades tlic mountains cast on the bosom of the lake shewed the vastness of those masses from whence they proceeded ; and still as the moon arose higher in the horizon, the distant objects began to, be more illumined ; and tlie whole presented us with a noble moon- light piece, delicately touched by the hand of Nature, and far surpassing tliose humble scenes which we liad often viewed in the works of the Flemish painters. — Mists began to arise on the lake ; and, by reason of the air Avhich bore them aloft being confined, and eddying within this deep circle, they were whirled round, and ear- p 3 ' 162 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR ried upwards like a column, which, so soon as k approached the rajs of the moon, hud a most wonderful appearance, and resembled a pillar of light. — I recollect that Maupertuis, describing the lake aad mountain of Niomi, in Lapland, speaks of a phenomenon of the like na'ure, which the people called Ilallios, and which they es- teemed to be the guardian spirits of the place. —Be these as they might, we may venture to as- sert, no Druid, no St. Herbert, no Genius, had a more glorious ascension. — The moon's mild beams now glistened on the waters, and touched the groves, the cliffs, the islands, with a meekness of colouring which added to the solem- nity of the night ; and these noble and romantic objects struck us with reverence, and inspired the mind with pious sentiments and ejaculations. — It was observable, that by day we were incessantly communicating our raptures and surprise on each Dew wonder that opened to our view — we now enjoyed tkem in silence. — Every bay and pro- montory assumed an appearance different from what it had by day-light : — the little dells which wind round the feet of tlie mountains, as they were shadowed by interposing objects, or silver- ed by the moon, afford most enchanting scenes, where we could have wandered long with delight. — Where the lake narrows, and runs up in a crisek towards Corrowdale^ the rocks looked tre« GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 163 mendous, almost sljutting us in from the face of heaven ; the cliffs were struck with scanty gleams of light, which gained their passage through the interstices of the hills, or chasms in the rocks, and served only to discover their horrible over- hanging front;:, their mighty caverns, where the water struck by our oars made a hollow sound, tlieir deformed and frowning brows, the hanging shrubs with which they were bearded, their sparkliiig waterfalls that trilled from shelf to shelf ; the whole half seen and half concealed, leaving imagination at large to magnify the ima- ges of their grandeur and stupendous magnifi- cence. The opening of the vale of Newlancjs was particularly beautiful." Some writers have asserted that a floating island occasionally appears on this lake ; while others have denied its existence. The place where it is said to have been seen, is on that side of the lake, and nearly opposite to Lodore. De- sirous of investigating the truth of this matter, we requested our conductor to row us to the place, October, 1798. There was then no appearance of any island ; but he positively asserted that it had appeared above the water for six weeks dur- ing the summer before ; that it was long and narrow, being at one time upwards of 100 yards in length, having long gra>ss upon it, and that ii 164 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR gradually sunk down again. Wo rowed up to a pole which had been stuck into the island when above water, and then found it about five feci under the surface of the lake. It had not ap- peared for some years before. — Whether this is a portion of earth which occasionally breaks piii- tially from the bottom, and -comes to the surface, or it is only a prominent ridg-e which merely ap- pears when ihc water in the lake is low, we can- not determiiie, but are strongly inclined to be- lieve the former, especially ^s the w^ater is deep immediately on each side ; and in probing the earth no rock is found ; but, on the contrary, at the depth of about two yards, a pole seems to have x^ierced quite through, and water tlien fol- lows it up. A journey to the top of Skiddaw will be found an agreeable excursion in clear weather, which indeed is absolutely necessary during such an expedition. The distance from Keswick to its base is about a mile, with a winding ascent of live miles to its summit, from whence the gran- deur and variety of the most extensive prospects will amply compensate for the fatigue in climb- Tins excursion, however, ought not to be undertaken by a stranger without an experienced GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 16o guide ; because, should the mists unexpectedly come on (to which these lofty eminences are pe- culiarly subject, even without the least previous appearance of their approach) the traveller might be enveloped in darkness, and wander in these trackless deserts, not without the greatest danger. The following is a journal of our observa- tions in a tour to this mountain, in October 1798, which we inconsiderately undertook to perform without a guide : — * Ten minutes past eight o'clock, a fi'ne au- tumnal morning, set out from Keswick to Skid- daw. Go through narrow lanes to the base of Latrigg, a smooth, verdant hill of considerable height, and from whence there is one of the fine- est views of the lake and vale of Keswick, with their environs. — Wind gently round the swell- ing breast of that beautiful mountain, along an easy path, leaving an elevated farm on the left, and skirting a deep chasm on the right. This glen runs into the bosom of Skiddaw, and draws a small rivulet from thence, which descends in a foaming cataract, and runs towards Threikeld ; the valley widening and becoming more pleasant ^ as it proceeds.— We now climb up a steep of near a mile, oa the sweepiiig base of lofty Skid- 166 OR daw : the hills on the right are heavy and dull, much covered with heath, and thinly spotted with sheep. — Surmounting this difficulty, we have be- fore us a yexy easy ascent of more than half a mile, the surface of which is eloathed with a car- pet of long moss and bent grass, almost as easy to tread upon as the softest velvet; and beyond that there rises a summit which we take to be one of the tops of Skiddaw. — On looking back, the scenes which present themselves excite our asto^ nishment in the highest degree : a boiling sea of mountains, with pointed, conical, and broken tops, appear rioting over each other in a most turbulent manner, like a legion of raging' mon- sters preparing to spread destruction on every side ! The lake of Derwent dwindles as the prospect around it expands ; the bends of every river, brook, and hedge in the vale beneath, as well as every seat, tarm-house, and cottage, are delineated at our feet as on a map. — Ormthwaite, the house of Dr. Browxrigg, adorned with se- veral rising plantations, peeps out from under the very base of the mountain, and one would suppose that a stone- would hurl from hence to the door. — Crosthwaite church and the vicarage are also conspicuous and agreeable objects. — At length we reach the emhience which we had been aiming at for some time, crowned v/itli a heap of stones ; but are surprised to find another niucii CfUIDE TO THE LAKES. 167 higlier, and considerably before us, — Thither we hasten with all the speed our exhausted strength will admit of, and are the more anxious to reach the summit, as we observe that a small cloud has just been arrested by the top of Saddleback, a high mountain on the right of Skiddaw ; but, in point of elevation, somewhat his inferior.^ — The morning was perfectly calm in the valley, and the sun shone very hot : this occasioned so copi- ous a perspiration while climbing the first steep, that we had pulled off our coats and neckcloths : here we find the air is so sharp and thin, that it is necessary to put on our cloaths, and button them tight about us ; but feel our muscles much braced, and strength returning every minute. A sort of blue slaty stone now bursts out here and there on the highest parts; but the surface has few abrupt irregularities, swelling and lowering in long and noble sweeps.-— The efforts of vegeta«» lion in these elevated regions arc languid, and notliing besides the hardiest plant can live. We observe some straggling blades of fescue grass, and considerable quantities of a strong short plant, provincialiy called huclc^s grass. This grows like a tree in miniature, seems to be in its proper sphere, and looks healthy. The greatest quantity of herbage, however, ^s a sort of sickly-, looking dark-coloured moss. — We now arrive at the second erruncrsce. never doubtino: that we 168 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR J OR had reaqlied the highest part ; but how great is our surprise on seeing, from hence, another point much higher, and almost a mile distant ; but which, till this moment, had been wholly con- cealed from our view '.—And what contributes still more to heighten our disappointment and confusion, is a huge intervening gap, while the clouds continue gathering on Saddleback, and threaten to roll down the chasm towards us. Here ■we hesitated, and felt a sort of tremour • but, in such a situation, no time must be lost, and we soon came to a resolution of proceeding forward. We descend through the verdant cavity before us with all possible dispatch, busied in forming schemes for self-preservation in case we should be overwhelmed in atmospheric obscurity, which now seems more than probable. A track now ap- pears considerably below us on the right, wind- ing round the verdant breast of that part of the mountain, which, by m:slake, we had unnecessa- rily ascended : this track, which seems to have been made here a little way by the shepherds, is the proper route for people to follow in their as- cent of Skiddaw. Our mistake consisted in hold- ing too much to the left after haying ascended the first steep, and lost every appearance of a path : we should have proceeded directly forward, keeping just under the heights on our left, till ws found the road now in our view. Here we GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 169 find ourselves in a wild elevated forest of im- mense extent, without a house, hedge, tree, road, or the least mark of human existence in view ; where nothing but the long round backs of heathy mountains, stretching far and wide, with deep barren valleys between them, are to be seen. Along one of these chasms the river Cal- dew, which rises just below us in the heart of Skiddaw, takes his course, and after hurrying through this dreary desart, bends round Carrock- fell, and accompanies a sweet wooded vale to Carlisle, where it loses its waters and name in the Eden. ^ After many a panting pause and broken step, we moviut the real summit of this stupen- dous mountain, having been two hours and ten minutes in performing the journey. The atmos- phere immediately about us is tolerably clear ; but the horizon so hazy, that we lose part of the wonderful prospect which this place affords : we, however, enjoy enough to excite the greatest as^ tonishment. The lake of Keswick contracts to a pond, and in which the fine islands are mere points : its circumscribing mountains, which be- fore appeared almost to touch the skies, now sink at our feet, and all the beauties of particular parts are lost. The Derwent is seen twining along the vale like a silver thread, connecting the Q , 170 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR lakes. — The mountain is here a narrow ridire of about a quarter of a mile in length ; and the other, or north end, is said to be the highest. The top of this ridge is regularly round, but soon descends on each side so rapidly, that it is not safe to venture far from the middle either way. On looking down the profound precipice, in almost any direction, the eye recoils with hor- ror. Chasms of enormous depth in the bowels of the mountains, forming steeps of slaty shiver, yawn upwards with frightful grin, and threaten to swallow inferior hills. A sort of blue slaty stone wholly covers the surface, and shuts out ve- getation, did even this frigid region admit of it. Indeed the greatest part of the mountain seems composed of this sort of stone. Towards the northern extremity there are the ruins of a hut, which has stood on the highest part. It is said this building was made in J 689, by Mr. John Adams the Geographer, of a sufficient size to i^ontain his telescopes and optic glasses, whereby he was enabled to give a better description of the two counties : but being arrested by his engra- ver, and death soon following, his labours were lost. ' Here a large heap of stones has been rais- 4?d by the contribution of one from every visitant, generally with his name and a date upon it.— GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 171 We now look down into the triangular vale of Bassenthwaite, speckled with white and green fields, and washed with different brooks : the lake of Bassenthwaite also stretches itself before lis in a long indented sheet^ overhung with the woody brows of Withop. Towards Carlisle, and from thence down to Whitehaven, an open flat country dilates as far as the eye can reach ; but, unfortunately, the thickness of the atmosphere prevents oar recognizing particular objects at a great distance : only we see the Northumberland and Scotch hills, the Solway Frith and Irish Channel, dimly rising in the horizon ; together with volumes of smoke ascending from lime- kilns, iron forges, &c. on various parts of the plain. 'But wliilst we were highly gratified in making these observations, we were suddenly sur- prised with the appearance of a dense cloud ho- vering near the mountain, and threatening to en- velope us in its thick vapour ; and, notwith- standing the violence of the wind, which blew di- rectly against it, the cloud kept its station at an equal height witli ourselves, and, awfully grand, began to drop half round the mountain like a cur- tain ; while others at a greater distance were fly- ing briskly forward before the strong current of air. This alarmed us still more,^ and we hastily Q 2 172 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR departed towards the other end of the ridge ; but soon had the pleasure of seeing tliis bulky vo- lume beginning to dismiss. — We now find the air extremely sharp, and keep oar hats on with difficulty, which, should they escape, might al- most instantly get beyond the reach of our re- covery. — Here are no very large stones, and ma- ny of the slates are standing separately, edgewise in the ground, and half above the surface— a po- sition which must have been occasioned by some unaccountable concussion of the earth. — We had now reached the other end of the ridge, and sat down under a heap of stones on the south most pinnacle. Clouds of various density were flying swiftly by, or rolling down the mountain's sides on each hand^ forming curious spectacles in the eye of a person unaccustomed to such appear- ances. But while we amused ourselves with con- templating these phenomena, and the great and boundless scenes around us, a heavy cloud sud- denly approached, and instantly buried us in misty darkness. Every object is now hid, ex- cept the stony surface a few yards round our sta- tion. To remove is dangerous, and to continue till the air clears may confine Ua till night spreads its still more sable covering over us. We were considering which plan it would be most prudent to adopt, but remained undetermined ; when, brtunatelv. in less than half an liour. the humiH GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 173 curtain opened, and admitted a glimpse of light. We seized the favourable opportunity, hurried down the rapid declivities, soon leaving behind us the murky vapour, reached the vale in less than two hours, and found a fine calm day,' Mrs. Radcliffe visited this mountain in 1795, under a clear sky, and thus describes the view from the summit : — '' We stood on a pinnacle commanding the whole dome of the sky. The prospects below, each of which had been before considered sepa» rately as a great scene, were now miniature pa* . of the immense landscape. To the north, lay like a map, the vast tract of low country which extends between Bassenthwaite and the Irish Channel, marked with the silver circles of the ri- ver Derwent, in its progress from the lake. Whitehaven and its white coast were distinctly seen ; and Cockermouth seemed almost under the eye. A long blackish line, more to the west, resembling a faintly formed cloud, was said by the guide to be the Isle of Man, wlio, how- ever, had the honesty to confess, that the moun- tains of Down, in Ireland, which have been sometimes thought visible, had never been seen by him in the clearest weather. — Bounding tlie low <^ountry to the north, the wide Solway Frith, Q 3 174 A DESCRIPTIVE TOLMl; OH with its indented sliores, looked like a grey hori- zon ; and the double range of Scottish moim- tains, seen dinilj through mist beyond, like lines of dark clouds above it. The Solvvay appeared surprisingly near us, though at fifty miles dis- tance, and the guide said, that, on a bright day, its shipping could be plainly discerned. Nearly in the north, the heights seemed to soften into plains, for no object was there visible through the obscurity that had begun to draw over the fur- thest distance ; but, towards the east, they ap- peared to swell again, and wliat we were told •were the Cheviot hills dav/ned feebly beyond Northumberland. We now spanned the narrow- est part of England, looking from the Irish Chan- nel, on one side, to the German Ocean, on the other, which latter was, however, so iar oil as to be discernible only like a mist. *' Nearer than the county of Durham, stretched the ridge of Cross-fell, and an indis- tinct multitude of the Westmoreland and York- sl'iire highlands, whose lines disappeared behind Saddleback, now evidently pre-eminent over Skiddaw, so much so as to exclude many a height beyond it. Passing this mountain in our course io the south, we saw, immediately below, the fells round Derwent-water, the lake itself remain- ing still concealed in their d^e^ rocky bosom. GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 175 Southward and westward, the whole prospect was " a turbulent chaos of dark mountains." All individual dignity was now lost in the im- mensity of the whole, and every variety of cha- racter was overpowered by that of astonishing aiid gloomy grandeur. " Over the fells of Borro\ydale5 and far to ihe south, the northern end of Windermere ap- peared, like a wreath of grey smoke, that spreads along the mountain's side. More southward still, and beyond all the fells of the lakes, Lancaster sands extended to the faintly seen waters of the sea. Then to the west, Duddon sands gleamed in a long line along the fells of High Furness. Immediately under the eye, lay BassentJiwaite, surrounded by many ranges of mountains, invisi- ble from below. We overlooked all these dark mountains, and saw green cultivated vales over the tops of lofty rocks, and other mountains over these vales in many ridges, whilst innumerable narrow glens were traced in all tlieir windings, and seen uniting behind the hills with others tJiat also sloped upwards from tlie lake. '' The air onthissummit was boisterous, in- tensely cold, and difficult to be inspired, though ihe day was below warm and serene. It was dreadful to look down from nearly the brink of 176 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUIl ; OR the point on which ^\e stood upon the lake of Bassenlhwaite, and over a sharp and separated ridge of rocks, that from below appeared of tre- mendous height, but now seemed not to reach half way up Skiddaw ; it was almost as if . ' the precipitation might down stretch Below the beam of sight.' " BASSENTHWAITE-LAKE which frequently presents itself to the view in the above excursions, is formed by the river Der- went (after leaving Derwent-lake) which serpen- tises through a fine extensive vale. This lake is near four miles long, and in some parts near a mile broad, but in others not more than a quarter of that breadth. On the east side is the beauti- ful and extensive vale of Bassenthwaite, cut into small irregular inclosures, with fine thorn hedges, spotted with neat farm-houses, half surrounded by little groves, and deeply indented with three noble bays. — Beyond this, mighty Skiddaw rears his lofty head, and shews a blue front covered with slaty shiver. The opposite shore is hem- med in with high mountains, which fall abruptly to the water's edge, leaving only two or three ' little corners where cultivation can prevail. These hasty decliyities arc called Withop-brows^ c.><.^d^^^^^%>^:,^^j<^«^^ GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 177 are partly rocky, and generally covered with thick woods. A visit to this lake is frequently neglected by parties on pleasure, under an idea that its beauties are eclipsed by the superior grandeur of Keswick lake. The scenery here is indeed dif- fi^rent to that of Keswick ; but it affords a great variety, and will be found to exhibit some of the most pleasing pictures of nature. From Keswick we proceed to Ousebridge, along a good carriage road, having Skiddaw on the right, with the lake on the left. In this pleasing ride, we are led through rural winding lanes, passing several genteel houses, finely situ- ated ; and, making an easy curve round the western verge of Skiddaw, we have a del ghtful view of the vale and opposite hills on the left, MiREHousE, the seat of Thomas Story, Esq. is a neat modern building, shaded with groves of young trees, and standing in the vale at almost an equal distance between the base of Skid- daw and the lake. — Here the successful essay of Mr. Story, in rearing a thriving plantation of larch on the rocky front of the barren mountain, ought to encourage similar attempts in many other parts of Cumberland and AYcstmorland, to ^JM^fi^^/^2//u/y^/6/^ .^y-a^^, /rc^/iy ^Ci-^Vf^^^/^-^y^z-^v//^^^ 178 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR turn the almost useless hills to advantage, and beautify the country, by planting them with trees. — About half a mile further, a road, turning to the left from the main road, leads down to Broad- ness, a round green hill that extends considerably into the lake, forming, with the assistance of two other promontories, a large semicircular bay on each side, with Bowness on the south, and Scar- ness on the north. — The best general view of the lake is from tlie crown of this hill, behind the farm-house. Here we have three finely formed bays immediately under the eye. The uniform- ity of the shore, consisting of steep wooded decli- vities, on one side of the lake, forms a striking contrast with the low and soft boundaries, scal- loped into sweeping headlands and promontories, on the other. A long jutting point of land, planted with firs, stretches considerably into the lake, and contracts its dimensions. From hence we pass to Sqarness, on the other side of the bay, and proceed to the extremity of the promontory. On the right we have a noble circular bay, a mile in diameter, with a beautifully variegated line of shore, consisting of low meadows, fringed with trees and brushwood, high wooded rocks, and neat buildings fronting the lake. On the left another small sweeping bay, and before us the same front skreen of Withop-brows, in a somewhat different point of view. GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 170 We now recede a little from tlie lake, and proceed towards Ousebridge, by way of Bassen- thwaite -balls. From a considerably elevated part of the road, on the north side of this village, there is a commanding view of the lake, with its accompaniments, and the northern front of Skid- 1 daw, which admits an ascent almost as easy as I that on the south . The lengthening vales of Em- I bleton and Isel are also conspicuous objects from I this station. We now reach Armathwaite, a small, but finely situated seat, overlooking the lake through a grove of trees. Here the lowest bay, lashing its circular shores on every side, is seen in all its majesty ; every idea of a river is lost, and the lake seems retiring behind the peninsula of Scar- ness in a delightful manner. The hanging woods of Withop appear on the other side of the lake, beautiful beyond description. — Sir Frederick Fletcher Yane, Bart, who now chiefly resides at his seat at Armadiwaite, near the foot of Bas- senthwaitc-lake, has lately made a pleasant road through Withop woods, which gently ascends through coppices of different growths, sometimes opening to a full sight of the lake, and sometimes the trees rise so close as nearly to shut up the I view, affording only an occasional glimpse I through the parting foliage. — This road, we are 180 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR informed, Sir Frederick intends to continue i the top of Birk-hill, fronni whence the view is truly admirable. — Birk-hill top is a conically formed eminence of considerable height, covered with a thick carpet of soft grass, and shooting up a little above the surrounding woods, which it just overlooks. From this place we have a dis- tinct view of the vales of Bassenthwaite and Keswick, with the surrounding objects, the two lakes therein, and the river Derwent serpentising throusrh amon£: the meadows between them. The town and church of Keswick also appear, as well as the rugged mountains of Borrow dale. On the other band the little secluded vale of Withop, and also thatof Embleton, open at our feet, and discover all their little pleasing retreats. A pleasant road leads us to Ousebridge, where there is a good inn fronting the lake, and commanding an extensive view. Here the lake, without any previous contraction, or the least ap- pearance of an outlet, pours forth its waters (pass- ing beneath a good stone bridge * of three arches) under the continued name of Derwent, which river immediately takes a rapid course past Cocker- mouth, through fine vales, to Workington. * This Brid?' fell down Tan. iSOi? GUIDE TO TilE LAKES, 181 I'oR the sake of variety, ^o necessary iiiex- cursiohs of this nature, we «1ialt direct our route to Keswick, along the western shores, by a road passable on horseback. — This road, if possible, should be taken in the evening', before the setting of the sun, when the views of the opposite moun- tains aredeliijc^itful. The road sometimes mounts up ihe side of the mountain, and sometimes drops down to the margin of the water, and is frequent- ly immersed among the woods so as to admit only occasional glimpses of the lake. At intervals w^e leave the woods for a little space, and pass through small inclosures. At Beck-Withop our views of the lake and its circumjacent parts are very full and pleasing. Behind us, Wit hop hangs his surly wooded brows in- sullen pride, and seems to frown upou us as invaders of his dominions. Before us the shore is margined with rocks, hall concealed in brushwood ; Ihe opposite land is deeply indent- ed with fine bays ; while the bold promontories of Scarness, Broadness, and Bowncss, push far into the lakcc — The vale of Bassenthwaite, with its cliapcl, id a retired situation, and whitened liouscs interspersed, is seen from hence in a good point of view. — The mountain Ullock, a supple- ment to mighty Ski(|daw, forms the back- ground of this picture ; and Skiddaw himself, higher A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR stillj soars to the skies, and shuts in the scene. Though this majestic mountain has a lofty ap- pearance from whatever point it is seen, yet from this station its height is most conspicuous, form- ing a striking contrast with the intervening lake and the lower hills around. — The skirts of these mountains are clad in verdure, and their breasts purpled with heath, covered with a smooth cap of blue slate at the top, the fragments of which shiver down their steep sides.— Armathwaite is a pleasing object from hence, seen over a great ex- panse of the lake. Further to the north the ground rises in easy slopes, and is much variega- ted with cultivated tracts, woodland, and round- topped hills. The views up the lake are various and picturesque. — From hence continue this j>leasing route, through Thornthwaite and Por- tingcale, to Keswick. Those who wish to explore still further in- to the grand" and sublime scenes, and other ex- traordinary works of nature in the vicinity of Keswick, will meet witli ample gratification in an excursion from thence to the vale and lake of BUTTE RM ERE. Ci^oss the Derwent at the bridge nearPortinscale, iiE«i from thence turn to the left, leaving Fae« i GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 18S park on the same hand, and .Swinside on the right, and proceed up the vale of Newlands, along a good mountain road. — On passing the first two or three cottages, called Swinside, we ha^e a fine view of the vales on each hand : that on the right here presenting itself. We now gently descend to the bottom of the pleasant wooded vale, and join the course of a stream which, clear as crystal, rattles over a pebbled channel. The regular and iaj)id declivities of a murky ridge on the right, with horizontal sheep paths at different heights, exhibit a new and pleasing object. The road soon crosses the brook, and is confined in narrow winding lanes*, shaded with trees, till it enters the common under Raw- ling-head. Here we have a back view of the 1 f TT • 1 • I'll v^ » ' » —»* UV/»^*1C4I vale of Keswick '" " -^^ , / , , The brook bubbles quickly along a deep channel, having its immediate banks fringed with trees and bushes ; the ground on each side then rises? * Lanes of this sort, as well as old and crooked hedges, and small irregular inclosures, are universally met with among mountains, and along their confines, particularly in the north of England, and in Wales ; which proves that these districts have been sooner inhabited than plains and open countries ; or at I least, that they have been generally inclgsed at an earlier period ofclvilizatiop . E 2 184: A DESCKIl'TIVE TOU U ; OR in gentle waving ascents to the mountains, tlie bases of which are verdant^ whilst a mixture of heatji and grey rock covers their more elevated surfaces. — Whitened farm-houses, peeping out among tufts of trees, are scattered over the vale, and diversify the landscape. The valley now turns quickly to the right, when we find ourselves in a deep recess, called Keskadale, in appearance completely surrounded with mountains. This vale is of considerable width, and the green fields rise irregularly from the bottom, in an undulating manner, up the sides of the bordering mountains, which after- wards swell suddenly into Alpine heights, dress- ed in heath, with curious arrangements of grey ' • -J ^.«ri — Qrisdale-pike, vying with Skiddaw for pre-emmence, rears ma puiutcd summit on the right ; while Robinson, an im- mense ridge of rocks, forms the southern border. — Here all is calm -, and the great lines of nature, in the true style of pa toral beauty, remain un- broken by any efforts of art : neither the rattlini^ of carriages, nor the noise of busy commerce and manufacture, is heard. The murmuring of tlie brook below, the lowing of cattle, tlie bleating of sheep straggling on the side of the mountain, and the echoing voice of the shepherd, are the only disturbers of this peaceful vale. No lake, no i CruiDE TO THE LAKES. 185 seat house, nor even village, is seen in the valley of Keskadale ; only a few scattered farm-houses, surrounded with hanging fields, point out the haunts and habitations of those happy and con- tented shepherds who have found their way into this calm mountainous recess. The road leads us, in a pleasant easy curve^ along the sides of the mountains ; when, ap- proaching the head of the dale, the country be- comes more wild, and all appearance of cultiva- tion ceases : neither hut nor inclosure strikes the eye, but all is pure nature. The brook below makes a thousand unrestrained links ; while fro^ the heights of craggy Robinson, where a mouii'» tain, stretching across, closes up the valley, we see the river tumbling down in a foaming cata- ract. This waterfall is nearly perpendicular, and curiously broken; sometimes disappearing a few yards behind projecting rocks, and then shewing its silvery fluid in a precipitate motion. Its height is upwards of 100 yards t towards the top the figure of a huge bear appears climbing up the steepest part of the rock, and dividing the water as it falls. Other smaller cascades are also playing down the steeps of this rocky ridge. We now surmount the hill (called New- lands-hawse) which threatened to obstruct our r3 186 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR passage ; and on iYay of Borrowdale, may first visit Cruinmock^, 188 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR* and afterwards Buttermere-water, from the head of which a most romantic road, winding tip the dell, enters Borrowxiale near the black-lead mines. But such as would return by Lowes-water, Lor- ton, &c. must reverse that plan of visiting these lakes, and will find a curious Alpine pass, by way of Whinlatter, back to Keswick. The dis- tance from hence by Borrowdale io Keswick, is about 12 miles, and the other route about M. We shall at present adopt the latter. About 300 yards from the village, we ap- proach the lake, which is a beautiful sheet of wa- ter, a mile and a half long, and half a mile broad. The western shores are hemmed in by those grim-looking mountains we saw before, and which rise precipitately from the very margin of the water : the eastern sliores rise more gently, are wooded, and admit of cultivation to a little distance from the lake : the north end washes the fine vale of Butterraere, which is little eleva- ted above the water, and the southern extremity peeps into different recesses, and washes the ver- dant feet of lofty mountains. Honister-crag, at the head of the lake, is an abrupt termination of a chain of mountains extending behind, leaving a vale on each side, and presenting a square front. Mountain torrents on every side are here perpe- tually pouring down their foamy waters into the GUIJJE TO THE LAKfiS. 189 lake. The beautiful vale on the western side of llontster-crag is soon closed in by a cross ridge, called a hawse ; but that through which the road leads to Borrowdale opens for several miles, and is called Gatesgarth-dale, from Gatesgartb, a group of houses at its entrance. Here we find an astonishing transition of scenes, from smooth green hills to the most rugged and craggy imaginable. —Mr. Gilpin, with his usual nicety, thus des- cribes this vale : — '•' Gatesgartii-dale, into which we soon entered, is indeed a very tremendous scene. Like all the valleys we had yet found, it had a peculi- ar character. Its features were its own. It was not a vista like the valley of Watenlath ; nor had it any of the sudden turns of the valley of Ror- rowdale : but it wound slowly and solemnly in one large segment. It was wider also than either of those valleys ; being at least half a quarter of a mile from side to side ; which distance is pretty uniformly observed ; the rocky mountains which environed it keeping their line with great exact- ness : at least, never breaking out into any vio- lent projections. " The area of this valley is, in general, concave ; the sides almost perpendicular, com- posed of a kind of broken crag^ry rock, (he riiiiis 190 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR of which every where strew the valley; and give it still more the idea of desolation. ^' The river also which runs through it, and is the principal supply of the lake, is as wild as the valley itself. Jt has no banks, but the frag- ments of rocks ; no bed, but a channel composed of rocky strata, among which the water forces its course. Its channel, as well as its bank, is form- ed of loose stones and fragments, which break, and divide the stream into a succession of wild, impetuous eddies. " A stream, which is the natural source of plenty, is perhaps, when unaccompanied with verdure the strongest emblem of desolation. It shews the spot to be so barren, that even the greatest source of abundance can produce nothing — The whole valley, indeed, joined in impressing the same idea. Fruitful nature, making in every part of her ample range unremitting efforts to vegetate, could not here produce a single ger- min. ^^ As we proceeded, the grandeur of the val- ley increased. We had been prepared indeed to see the highest precipices which the country pro- duced. Such a preface is generaUy productive of disappointment ; but on this occasion it did no GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 191 injury. The fancy had still its scope. We found the mountains so overhung with clouds, that we could form little judgment of their height. Our guide told us they were twice as high as we could see : which, however, we did not believe from the observations we were able to make, as the clouds, at iiritervals, floated past, and disco- vered, here and there, the shadowy forms of the rocky summits. A great height however they certainly were ; and the darkness in which they were wrapped gave us a new illustration of the grandeur of those ideas which arise from obscuri- ty. — ' Dark, confused, uncertain images,' Mr. JBuRKE very justly observes, ' have a greater power on the fancy to form the grander pas- sions, than those which are more clear and de- terminate. For hardly any thing can strike the mind with its greatness, which does not make some sort of approach towards infinity ; which nothing can do, whilst we are able to perceive its bounds : but to see an object distinctly, and to perceive its bounds, is one and the same thing. A clear idea therefore is another name for a little idea.*' ^' The middle of the valley is adorned, as * On the Sublime asd Beautiful, Part 11. Sect. fV, 192 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR these valleys, in some part, often are, by a crag- gy hill ; on the top of which stands the fragment of a rock, that looks, in Ossian's language, like the stone of power — the rndc deity of desolation, to which the scene is sacred. " This valley is not more than' six miles from the black-lead mines ; and would have led Us to them, if we had pursued its course." Return to Buttermere, and from thence make a little excursion of a mile and a half, on the west, to Scale-force, a most astonishing wa- terfall. In this walk every stranger should bo accompanied with a guide. Proceed along a footpath which intersects the sweet vale ; and, at the further side, cross the riv^er Cocker, which runs between the lakes of Suttermere and Crum- mock. Turn downwards between the mountain md Crummock-lake, which soon appears in full view, bounded by lofty mountains on each side, vvhich rise from the margin of the water. At the urther end we see hills w:th milder aspects, and he Avooded and cultivated dales of Brackcn- thwaite and Lowes-water. Before iis lay an extensive bo.2^gy pasture, scattered witli detached stones ; while the moun- tain on the lef? — the sides or^Yhich, at a distant CSUIDE TO THE LAKES. 193 view, appear covered with a thick wood— on a nearer approach displays only a few straggling trees, interspersed among the rocks. — An open- ino- between the mountains of Mellbreak and Blea- crag points out the course to the object of our curiosity. Having obliquely crossed the pasture, we come to a Avail close under Blea-crag, which shews nothing but a most rugged face of rock, rising in successive tiers, like so many huge walls of old castles. Here our ears are stunned with a hoarse dashing noise at a little distance, without any appearance of its cause. Climbing over the Wall, we descend a few paces, turning to the left, towards the plz^ce from whence the sound proceeds, whjen the sense of sight is still more confounded than that of hearing — ^a cascade, dif- ferent from any of those hitherto noticed, but not less wonderful, suddenly strikes the eye. The rocks yawn, and open, in a frightful chasm, near liOO yards into the mountain, the horrid aspect of which at first almost staggers our resolution of ad- vancing further. We cautiously proceed over fragments of rocks up this awful cavity ; and soon after our entrance, a waterfall of four or five yards in height meets the eye. We ascend with (Jifficulty over the rocks on one side of this cas- cade, when we enter a long level p^issage, covei- s 194: A BESCniPTIVE TOUR J OR ed with rocky fragments, and a brook tumbling at the bottom. The roofless walls on each side are perpendicular, covered with dark-coloured moss, fern, and shrubs ; and, near the top, large tree^ grow from the crevices, darkening the ca- vern with their impending boughs. The natural walls increase in height from about 30 to ISO feet, and are there abruptly terminated by another perpendicular wall of equal elevation running across, over which a large body o£ water rushes forward, and falls 60 yards in one unbroken sheet, with a noise that seems to shake the mountain, and alarms the most intrepid,. The spray occa- sioned by the falling water rises in the form of a thick mist, and fills that part of the cavity, keep- ing us at a little distance^ otherwise we might travel with caution along one side of the brook quite to the fall.— ^This chasm is uniformly about four or ^ve yards wide, the bottom almost hori- zontal, and, between the falls, about the space of 80 yards in lengthy nearly in a direct line.^-^The regularity of the walls, forming the side and front ikseens of this natural curiosity, is very remark- able ; nor is it easily conceived what process of nature could effect the singular excavation. — This cascade, after heavy rains, becomes terrible, and no one can approach even to the first fall ; but in very dry seasons the quantity of water is sflconsiderable. — Scale-force, on account of the GtJiDE TO TMfi LiCKES, 195 difficult passage to it^ has hitherto been little known 5^ or visited^ by strangers t however, iVc are informed that a convenient path will shortly be made from Buttermerc to this singular curio- sity. As there is no road down this side of the kke, we return again to the village of Butter- i laere, and from thence proceed down the eastern side of crummock^water: The road leads through groves and pleasant fields to the banks of the lake, which sweeps away to the right round a promontory called Randon-knot, or Buttermere-hawse, under a crag- gy pyramidal mountain. From the breast of this rock we view the whole extent of the lake, which is beautifully ornamented with three little islands, one of which is a naked rock, and the other covered with wood. The western shores reach the skirts of naked Mellbreak, and other lofty mountains, whose mighty steeps descend generally to the water's edge, leaving few tracts fof cultivation . As we proceed , a sweetly 'situated^ farm displays its rural scenery opposite the mid- die of the lake, at the foot of a dell which sepa- i^tes Grasmere from Buttermere-hawse, Thiis s2 196 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR 5 OK side is beautifully indented with bays, and scat- tered trees adorn the banks. At tlie foot of the lake, a beautiful hill, partly wooded, and partly cultivated, steps forward a prominent object; and over it the sloping cultivated parts of Lowes- water are arranged in little fields.-— The ragged and pointed summits of this chain of mountains, on each side, are truly picturesque : some na- ked, others wooded to their bases ; some ver- dant, some rocky and heathy, and others cover- ed with red shiver, which streams down their furrowed precipitous sides, exhibiting an odd appearance. This lake is about four miles in length, and half a mile broad ; and, like that of Butterraere, is very deep and clear, which is supposed to be the reason why char breeds in these in preference to Derwent and Bassenthwaite lakes. That deli- cate fine flavoured fish is caught here in great abundance : and generally weighs from six to eight ounces each : they are sold for 4^-. 6d. and 5^. per dozen. The outlet of this lake is at the north-east corner, where the river Cocker draws forth its waters ; which, thence intersecting a pleasant country to Cockermouth, enters the Der- went. I GUiiE TO THE LAKES. 197 Continuing this delightful ride through a part of Brackenthwaite, over Cocker-bridge, and by High-cross, to LOWES'WATER, a beautiful lake, about one mile long, and a quar-. ter of a mile broad, which is seen to advantage from a station through a gate that leads to the common = Here a pretty sheet of water expands before us, discovering all its picturesque appen- dages. A mixture of woodland and cultivated fields adorns the extremities, which rise up from the borders of the lake in waving lines ; while various lofty mountains, in different attitudes and attire, bound the southern shore, dropping down in quick descents. The northern skreen is more humble, covered with soft vegetation, and soon gives way to an open country. Along the bor- ders of the lake, and in its neighbourhood, we meet with farms in the sweetest situations, beau- tified with neat buildings, and frequently occupi- ed by their proprietors, men of respectability and easy fortune. This lake discharges its waters at the south* ern end, and, after running in that direction I about a mile, falls into Crummock under the I brows of Melibrciik. It produces pike, perch^ ^ 3 198 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR and some trout ; but no char, probably on ac- count of its sliallow water. From t]iel)reast of MeUhre:\k wc have j^ood views of both lakes, together with their huire barriers, clad in different garbs, displnyiug vari- ous and grotesque appearances, in which the scenery is remarkably grand and picturesque. — Mr. West speaks of this station as follows : — *^ An evening view of both lakes, is from the side of Melibreakj at the gate, under a coppice of oaks, in the road to Ennerdale. N'jthing ex- ceeds, in composition, the parts of thislandscap?'. They are all great, and lie in tine order of per- spective. — If the view be taken from the round knoll at the lower end of the lake, the appearance of the mountains that bound it is astonishing. You have Mellbreak on the right, and Gras- mere on the left, and betwixt them a stupendous amphitheatre of mountain^, whose tops are all broken and dissimilar, and of different lines, and their bases skirted with wood, or cloathed with verdure. In the centre point of this amphithen- tre is a huge pyramidal broken rock, that seems with its figure to change place, as you move across the fore-ground, and gives much variety to the scenes, and alters the picture at every pace. In short, the picturesque views in this GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 199 district are many, some mixt, others purely sub- lime ; but all surprise and please. The genius of the greatest adepts in landscape might here improve in taste and judgment ; and the most enthusiastic ardour for pastoral poetry and paint- ing v/ill here find an inexhaustible source of scenes and images. '' When the roads to Ennerdaleand Wast- water are improvedj they may be taken in this morning ride. u From the bridge, at the foot of the lake, ascend the road to Brackenthwaite. At the ale- house, Scale-hill, take a guide to the top of the rock, above Mr. Bertie's woods, and have an entirely new view of Crummock- water. The riv- er Cocker is seen winding through a beautiful and rich, cultivated vale, spreading far to the north, variegated with woods, groves, and hang- ing grounds, in every pleasing variety. The most singular object in this vale of Lorton and Brackenthwaite, is a high crown-topt rock that divides the vale, and raises a broken craggy head over hanging woods, that skirt the sloping sides, which are cut into waving inclosures, and varied with groves and patches of coppice wood. To the west, a part of Lowes -water is seen, under a fringe of trees at High-cross. Behind you, aw« 200 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OB ful Grasmere (the Skiddaw of the vale) frowns in all the majesty of furrowed rock, cut almost perpendicularly to the centre by the waterfalls of ages. The swell of a cataract is here heard, but entirely concealed witliin the gloomy recess of a rocky dell, formed by the rival mountains, Gras- mere and White-side. At their feet lie the mighty ruins brought down from the mountains by the memorable water-spout, that deluged all the vale, in September, 1760. ^' Aftee this the mountains become humble hills, and terminate the sweet vale that stretches from the feet of Black-crag and Carling-knot, and spreads itself into a country watered by the Cocker. " Thr ride down this vale is pleasant. All the scenes are smiling, rich, and rural. Every dale-lander appears to be a man of taste, and every village, house, and cot, is placed in the choicest scite, and decorated in the neatest manner and stile of natural elegance. Not one formal avenue, or straight-lined hedge, or square fish-pond, offends the eye in all this charming vale. The variety of situation gives diversity of views, and a succession of pleaising objects creates the desire of seeing.'' GUIDE TO THE LAKES. ^01 ENNERDALE^ WA TEE, to which there is a difficult Alpine pass froni hence over a tract of the wildest mountains, lies southwards, about four miles distant. The shepherds, indeed, climb over these rugged mon- sters to Ennerdale by a variety of paths ; but the most convenient mode of visiting this vale is to take a circuitous route by way of Lam pi ugh, and come in at the west end of the lake, which is so guarded on every side, except the west, with mountains almost impassable, that it is seldom visited in a general tour : those, however, who have leisure, and a taste for variety of mountain, sylvan, and pastoral scenes, will not be disap- pointed in a ride to Ennerdale. Mr. Hutchinson, in his History of Cum- berland, seems to tliink its beauty no way extra- ordinary. He says — '* When we treated of Ea- nerdale in the preceding pages, we merely noti- ced the lough or lake there. The passage wind- ing round tlie base of mountains has a variety of narrow pastoral scenes, overlooked by scowling rocks and precipices, of which that called the riLLAR is remarkable. Tiie lake has no very singular features ; yet, in a newspaper of this county, an enraptured traveller, describing the hCenCj said^ — ^ It forms a picture such as th,^ 209 A DESCRIPTIVE TOtJR ; Git ^ canvas never represented ; it embraces a varie- ^ ty so distributed as no pencil can ever imitate. * No designer in romance every allotted such a ^ residence to his fairy inhabitants : I had almost ^ said, no recluse ever wooed religion in such a * blessed retirement.' — ' The genius of Ovid * would have transformed the most favoured of * his heroes into a river, and poured his waters ^ into the channel ef the Lissa, there to wander '^ by the verdant bounds of GilVerthwaite — the ^ sweet reward of patriotism and virtue. '—How happy that man's state of mind* ^' Stye- HEAD, Honister-crag, Wastdale, the Pillar, and Red-pike, are the great land»marks of this tract. *^ GiLLERTHWAiTE IS a uarrow tract of culw tivated land, a peninsula on the lake or lough 5 whose verdure receives additional beauties from the stony desert with which it is environed, where the mountains are barren in the extreme. This little spot has two cottages upon it, and has nO; neighbouring habitatioiis to alleviate the gloom of its situation. As you advance, some wood-> lands creep up the sides of Cold-fell, from the opposite side of the lough : an abrupt turn to the right opens the whole to the view, where the herd's house is no insignificant object, On the GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 203 eastern side, several little farmh.olds are spread out, and make a contrast with the opposite mountains, which, in serene weather, are reflect- ed in softened colouring in the water. " On the whole, there is something melan- choly in this scenery, and the mind is apt to be depressed, rather than enlivened and touched with pleasure, at the view of human habitations sequestered and shut out for many seasons even from the comfortable rays of the sun . ' * The lake is about two miles and a half long, and three quarters of a mile broad in the widest part. Return from Lowes-water, by Bracken- thwaite, to Lorton ; and from thence, along the Cockermouth road, to Keswick. In this route, the scenery is generally new, and always pleas- ing. After passing Cocker-bridge, we enter the vale of Brackenthwaite, and pursue a winding, well-made road through narrow shady lanes, with the mountain White-side on our right. Thig mountain shews a few rocky points bursting from its verdant slopes ; which are also scattered over with fern, and a few trees and bushes, among which the yew grows spontaneously, in jierpetual verdure. On the opposite side we see 204 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR Wh infield- fell, having somewhat the same ap^ pearance, but more humble. The valley still continues to exhibit some marks of an astonish- ing inundation, which happened in 1760, and is thus recorded by the ingenious Mr. Gilpin : — ^^ Our road carried us near the village of Brackenthwaite, which lies at the bottom of Grasmere. ^' Here we had an account of an inunda- tion occasioned by the bursting of a water-spout. The particulars, which are well authenticated, are curious. — In that part, where Grasmere is connected with the other high lands in its neigh- bourhood, three little streams take their origin, of which the Lissa is the least inconsiderable. The course of this stream down the mountain is very steep, and about a mile in length . Its bed, and the sides of the mountain all around, are pro- fusely scattered with loose stones and gravel. On leaving the mountain, the Lissa divides the vale through which we now passed ; and, after a course of four or fi^e miles, falls into the Cocker. "On the 9th of September, 1760, about midnight, the water-spout fell upon Grasmere^ nearly, as was conjectured, where the three little streams, just mentioned, issue from their fountains^ GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 205 ^' At first it swept the whole side of the mountain, and charging itself with all the rub- bish it found there, made its way into the vale, following chiefly the direction of the Lissa. At the foot of the mountain it was received by a piece of arable ground, on which its violence first broke. Here it tore away trees, soil, and gravel ; and laid all bare, many feet in depth, to the naked rock. Over the next ten acres it seems to have made an immense roll, covering them with so vast a bed of stones, that no human art can ever again restore the soil. " When we saw the place, though twelve years after the event, many marks remained, still flagrant, of this scene of ruin. We saw the na- tural bed of the Lissa,a mere contracted rivulet; and, on its banks the vestiges of a stony channel, spreading far and wide, almost enough to con- tain the waters of the Rhine or Danube. It was computed from the flood-marks, that in many places the stream must have been five or six yards deep, and near a hundred broad ; and if its great velocity be added to this weight of wa- ter, its force will be found equal to almost any effect. ^^ On the banks of this stony channel, we f5aw a few scattered houses, a part of the villjige me A DESGRiPTJVE TOUR OR of Brackenthwaite, whieb bad a wonderful es* cape. They stood at the bottom of Grasmere, lather on a rising ground 5 and the current, tak- ing its first direction towards them, would have undermined them (for the soil was instantly laid bare) Tiad not a projection of naked rock, the in- terior stratum, on which the houses had unknow ingly been founded, resisted the current, and gave it a new direction. Unless this had intervened, it is probable the houses and all their inhabitants (so instantaneous was the ruin) had been swept together. ^' In passing farther along the vale^ we saw other marks of the fury of this inundation ; bridges had been thrown down, houses carried ofF^ and woods rooted up. But its effects on a stone causeway were thought the most surprising. This fabric was of great thickness ; and support" ed on each side by an enormous bank of earth . The memory of man could trace it, unaltered in any particular, near a hundred years ; but by the soundness and firmness of its part^ and texture, it seemed as if it had stood for ages. It was almost .; doubt whether it were a work of nature or of art. Tliis massy mole the deluge not only car- ried oiF^ but, as if it turned it into sport, made ii^. very foundations the channel of its own .stream. GtJlDE 1*0 tHE LAKESo' ^(f! ^* Having done all this mischief, not only here, but in many other parts, the Lissa thfew all its waters into the Cocker, where an end was put to its devastation ; for though tire Cocker was unable to contain so immense an increase^ yei^ as it flows through a more level country, the deluge spread far and wide, and wasted its strength in one vast, stagnant inundation." The mountains now begin to lower on each side, and, as we enter the beautiful vale of Lor^ ton, expand to a considerable distance. Her6 we find a new landscape ; the vale is near a mile broad, remarkably level, of a fertile loamy soil^ and neatly divided into inclosures by fine thorn hedges. The mountains on each side are varie- gated with little hollows and rocky knolls, mar* gined with woods, which in some places straggle up their sides : trees, singly ^ and in small collec- tions, are scattered over the vale ; which is wa* tered by the Cocker, and several other eleaF mountain streams pouring from the hills on every side. In short,^ this vale, although it displayg nothing very great nor grand, if compared with those mighty productions of nature which we have already seen, is, upon the whole, we think not excelled by any in this island for the beauty and symmetry of its jiarts (every one of which speaks the unc^sguised language of nature) and T. 2 ^os OR the engaging sweetness of the whole. — Mr. West ^ speaking of Lorton, says — '' The ride down this vale is pleasant. All the scenes are smiling, rich, and rural. Every dale-lander appears to be a man of taste, and every village, house, and cot, is placed in the choicest scite, and decorated in the neatest manner and stile of natural elegance. Not one formal avenue, or straight-lined hedge, or square fish-pond, offends the eye in all this charming vale. The variety of situation gives diversity of views, and a succession of pleasing objects creates the desire of seeing." Near Lorton we turn an acute angle on the right, and entering upon the great road from Cockermouth to Keswick, we soon find ourselves again immersed among mountains. This is call- ed the Whinlatter road ; thus described by Mr. Hutchinson : — '' The steeps and Alpine passes of Whinlatter form an ascent of five miles, up stupendous heights, by a winding path, contri- ved in an excellent manner, passing round the foot of the mountains, and taking the course of every little valley, to render the advance more gradual. In some parts you catch the prospect of small recesses, where some cottages stand in a solitude romantic and highly pastoral ; in other parts you look down from such tremendous pre- cipices, on whose brink you are travelling, that GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 20& from the windows of a carriage, the aspect and situation are alarming. — The lake of Bassen- thwaite looks from thence like a gloomy abyss ; and the vale about Keswick, with the lake of Derwent-water, appeared to us as enchanted ground, where the scene seemed realized which was imagined by the ingenious author of the tale of the Prince of Abyssinia,, in which the young hero of his narrative was held secluded from the busy world by encircUng mountains. — Skiddaw, shrouded with vapours, appeared to nod his drowsy head ; and innumerable eminences, one behind another, pushed their fronts to the view, and crowded the horizon with enormous objects* From this pass, where the road becomes more lev- el, you are inclosed by mountains on each handg^ at whose feet the path lies, and whose summits are not to be reached by the traveller's eye, who passes so immediately under them, as they riiSe almost perpendicularly, A fine verdute covers most of them, and they afford excellent sheep- walks ; others are barren, bleak, and shivery, sending down continued streams of sand, slates^ and stones, with every shower of raiil. The con- trast makes these vast objects agreeable to the eye.'' — Hist. Cumb. vol. ii. p. 120. Mr. Gilpin travelled over this road in a §tormy nighty and thus speaks of it ;-^ "^ 210 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OE ^^ The evening, which grew more tempest- uous, began to close upon us as we left the more beautiful parts of the vale of Lorton, We were still about six miles from Keswick ; and had be- fore us a very wild country, which probably would have afforded no great amusement even in full day : but amid the obscurity which now overspread the landscape, the imagination was left at large, and painted many images, which perhaps did not really exist, upon the dead co- louring of nature. Every great and pleasing form, whether clear or obscure, which we had seen during the day, now played, in strong imagery, before the fancy ; as when the grand chorus ceases, ideal music vibrates in the car. ^' In one part, a view pleased us much, though, perhaps, in stronger light it might have escaped notice. The road made a sudden dip ^ into a little, winding valley, which, being too ^ abrupt for a carriage, was eased by a bridge ; and the form of the arch was what we commonly find in Roman aqueducts. At least such it ap- peared to us. — The winding road, the woode valley, and broken ground below, the mountain beyond, the form of the bridge, which gave a classic air to the scene, and the obscurity, which melted the whole into one harmonious mass- made all together a very pleasing view. GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 211 ''But it soon grew too dark even for the imagination to roam. It was now ten o'clock ; and though in this northern climate the twilight of a clear summer evening affords, even at that late hour, a bright effulgence, yet now all was dark. A faint, erroneous ray. Glanced from th* imperfect surfaces of things, Threw half an image on the straining eye ; While wavering woods, and villages, and streams,- And rocks, and mountain-tops, that long retained Th* ascending gleam, where all one swimming scene. Uncertain if beheld," *' We could just discern, through the dim- ness of the night, the shadowy forms of the mountains, sometimes blotting out half the sky on one side, and sometimes winding round, as a gloomy barrier, on the other. '' Often, too, the road would appear to dive into some dark abyss, a cataract roaring at the bottom ; while the mountain-torrents on eve- ry side rushed down the hills in notes of various cadence, as their quantities of water, the declivi- ties of their fall, their distances, or the intermis- sion of the blast, brought the sound fuller, or fainter, to the ear ; which organ became now more alert, as the imagination depended rather gl2 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR on it than on the eye for information. — These va- rious notes of water-musiC; answering each other from hill to hill, were a kind of translation of that passage in the Psalms, in which one deep is represented calling another because of the noise of the water-pipes. '^ Among other images of the night, a lake (for the lake of Bassenthwaite was now in view) ap- peared through the uncertainty of the gloom, like something of ambiguous texture, spreading a lengthened gleam of wan, dead light under the dark shade of Wie incumbent mountains i but whether this light were owing to vapours arising from the valley, or whether it was water — and if water, whether it was an arm of the sea, a lake, or a river — to the uninformed traveller would ap- pear matter of great uncertainty. Whatever it was, it "would seem sufficient to alarm his appre- hensions, and to raise in his fancy (now in quest of dangers) the idea of something that might stop his farther progress. *^ A good turnpike-road, on which we enter- ed near the village of Lorton, and a knowledge of the country, set at nought all such ideas with us ; but it may easily be conceived, that a tra« veller, wandering in the midst of a stormy night, in a mountainous country, unknown, and unbeat-^ GUIDE TO THE LAKES* ' 213 cii by human footsteps, might feel palpitations of a very uneasy kind. '^ We have in Ossian some beautiful images, which accompany a night-storm in such a country as this. I shall subjoin, with a few al- terations, an extract from them, as it will illus- trate the subject before us. It is contained in a note on Croma, in which several bards are intro- duced entertaining their patron with their respect- ive descriptions of the night. ^^ The storm gathers on the tops of the mountains, and spreads its black mantle before the moon. It comes forward in the majesty of dark- ness, moving upon the wings of the blast. It sweeps along the vale, and nothing can withstand its force. The lightning from the rifted cloud flashes before it : the thunder rolls among the mountains in its rear. (( All nature is restless and uneasy. '' The stag>lies wakeful on the mountain- moss ; the hind close by his side. She hears the storm roaring through the branches of the trees* She starts — and lies down^gain. '^ The heath-cock lifts his head at intervr.Isj and returns it under his wins:. 514 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR 5 OR ^^ The owl leaves her unfinished dirge, anfl sits ruffled in her feathers in a cleft of the blasted oak. " The famished fox shrinks from the storm, and seeks the shelter of his den, *^ The hunter, alarmed, leaps from his pal- let in the lonely hut. He raises his decaying fire. His wet dogs smoke around him. He half opens his cabin-door, and looks out ; but he instantly retreats from the terrors of the night. *' For now the whole storm descends. The mountain-torrents join their impetuous streams. The growing river swells. ^^ The benighted traveller pauses as he en« ters the gloomy dell. The glaring sky discovers at intervals the terrors of the scene. With a face of wild despair he looks round. He recollects neither the rock above, nor the precipice be- low.— He stops.— Again he urges his bewildered ■way. His steed trembles at the frequent flash. —The thunder bursts over his head.'— The tor- rents roar aloud. — He attempts the rapid ford. Heard you that scream ? It was the shriek of death . *^ How tumultuous is the bosom of the lake!: GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 215 The waves lash its rocky side. The boat is. brimful in the cove. The oars are dashed against the shore. ^* What melancholy shade is that sitting under the tree on the lonely beach ? — I just dis- cern it faintly skadowed out by the pale beam of the moon, passing through a thin-robed cloud. It is a female form. Her eyes are fixed on the lake. Her hair floats loose around her arm, which supports her pensive head. Ah I mourn- ful maid ! dost thou still expect thy lover over the lake ? Thou sawest his distant boat, at the close of day, dancing upon the feathery waves. Thy breast throbs with suspence ; but thou knowest not yet that he lies a corpse upon the ^hore." Every stranger, before he leaves Keswick, should visit one or both of the Museums which are there exhibited ; the one by Mr. Crosth- WAiTE, and the other by Mr. Hutton. — Mr. Crosthwaite's is a spacious building, divided into several large apartments, and contains a pro* fusion of singular curiosities, consisting of a great number and variety of fossils, shells, petri- factions, rare birds, serpents, the stuffed skins and bones of several/uncommon animals, foreign and British ; some monstrous productions of nature^ ^16 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR both animal and vegetable ; a number of Asiatic curiosities, among which the Chinese Gong (a Chinese bell), the vibration of which resembles the loudest thunder, is very astonishing : optic glasses, coins, models of several of his own inge- nious inventions, maps of the lakes, &c. &c. &c. Mr. Crosthwaite, who is a native of this place, was a Naval Commander in India ; and after returning from thence, collected the contents of this Museum at a great ex pence. Mr. Hutton, who is by profession a guide to the neighbouring lakes and mountains, has likewise a good collection of rarities, curiosities, antiques, &c. gathered in this county. His knowledge of botany enables him to collect many curious plants, with which, as well as fossils, he furnishes the inquisitive naturalist. This gentle- man has found Epimeduvn Alpinum^ a plant said not to have been discovered before in Great Bri* tain. Having visited all the great and grand, the sweet and pleasing scenes in the environs of Kes- wick, we next direct our route towards Amble- side, along a good road, through new scenes of mountains, rocks, and lakes. — The road, with a steep ascent of about a mile, leads from Keswick GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 217 to Castle-rigg, where, on turning round, we see the delightful vale we have just left, in one of its finest points of view, including the lakes of Der- went and Bassenthwaite, with the river winding through the intervening meadows, together with the surrounding mountains, the vale of New- lands, &c. — Mr. Gray was so charmed with this view, that it almost determined him to return and repeat his tour. We descend Castle-rigg, and, skirting the head of Naddle vale, enter the narrow green val- ley of Legberthwaite, displaying a few small in- closures and straggling cots, with rocks and crag- gy precipices on the left. LEJ THES^ WA TER, or THIRL" MERE^LAKEy a narrow, irregular sheet of water, stretching along the foot of Helvellin for about four miles, soon afterwards presents itself to view. This lake, although its sides are not so much adorned Avith wood as many of those we have seen, is, however, guarded by some of the highest moun- tains in Cumberland ; among which Helvellin and Catchedicam dispute the claim of pre-emi- nence with mighty Skiddaw. Sometimes we meet with a rocky knoll, covered with wood^ u 218 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR biit the shores are generally naked and rocky, and display a scene of desolation. Innumerable rocks, of immense bulk, whicb, at some time, have been severed from the steeps of Helvellin, now hang motionless on his sides, and threaten the traveller with a new precipitation ; others have reached the bottom, and are at rest in the lake. On the opposite side a mixture of trees and shaggy rocks runs up the verdant mountains — the shore is much indented ; and, near the middle, the lake becomes so contracted, that a bridge of three arches spans the whole, and forms a communication for the neighbouring inhabit* ants. As we proceed, the noise of waterfalls as- sails the car on every side, which are seen tum- bling from amazing heights in silvery threads, From the vale of Legberthwaite we have an easy ascent, which is continued to Dun-mail-raise Stones, situated about two miles above the lake, and nine from Keswick.^— This is an Alpine pass, and divides the counties of Cumberland and Westmoreland. But what renders it particular** ly worth notice, is the scite of a hairn^ or large heap of stones, called Dun-maii-raise, said to have been placed there to perpetuate the memory of the last King of Cumberland, defeated there by Edmund, the Saxon Monarch, who put out the eyes of the two sons of his adversary ; and for his confederating v/ith Leolin, King of Wales, GUIDE TO THE LAKES. !S19 first wasted his kingdom, and then g^ve it to Malcolm, King of Scots, who hekl it in fee of Edmu>7D, a. D. 944, or 945. Not far from hence the mountains open a verdant lap, and discover the sweetly retired, circular vale of Grasmere, with a beautiful small lake, graced with a fine island, and miargined with a few pretty inclosures. — '^ This vale of peace'*'' is about four miles in circumference, and guarded by high mountains : at the upper end, Helm-crag, pyramidal and broken, exhibits art immense mass of antideluvian ruins. — Mr. GraV was delighted with this view, which is noticed by him thus : — "Just beyond it opens one of thd sweetest landscapes that art ever attempted to imitate. The bosom of the mountain spreading here into a broad bason, discovers in the midst Grasmere-water ; its margin is hollowed into small bays, with bold eminences ; some of rock, some of turf, that half conceal and vary the fi-- gure of the little lake they command ; from the shore a low promontory pushes itself far into the water, and on it stands a white village, with the parish church rising in the midst of it ; hanging inclosures, corn-fields, and meadows, green as an emerald, with their trees, and hedges, and cattle, fill up the whole space from the edge of the wa- ter ; and just opposite to you is a large farm- ir 2 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR house, at the bottom of a steep smooth lawn, cm- bosomed in old woods, which climb half way up the mountains' side, and discover above them a broken line of crags that crown the scene. Not a single red tile, no gentlemanis flaring house, or garden walls, break in upon the repose of this little unsuspected paradise ; but all is peace, rusticity, and happy poverty, in its neatest, most becoming attire." Mr. West recommends Lough-rigg, a steep hill on the south end of the west side of the lake, as a station for viewing its beauties to the greatest advantage. Towards the southern end of Grasmere, we mount over the rugged side of a rocky mountain, that shuts the lake from our view ; but Rydal- water, another still smaller lake, presents itself, apparently shallow, and inferior to the other in point of beauty. Some old woods, however, grace the opposite banks, a few trees spring from the grey rocks on this side, and its bosom con- tains two small islands. — These lakes empty themselves by the river Rothay ; which, after running about two miles, enters the lake of Win- dermere. — Turning a rocky protuberance on the left, we gain a view of Rydal-ball, seated on a gentle eminence, at the junction of two valleys ; GUIDE TO THE lAlCEig. S^l. it stands among waving woods, which climb up the surrounding steeps ; and Rydal-head, a rocky mountain of great height, rises rapidly be- hind, and almost hangs o^er the vale. At Rydal-hall, the seat of the co-heiresses of the late Sir Michael le Fleming, Bart. are two cascades worthy of notice; one at a little distance from the house, in a glen, to which a convenient path has been cut, leads us suddenly upon it in the best point of view. This is a considerable stream, tumbling, in one unbroken sheet, from a rock of great height into a bason be- low, with a concussion that seems to shake the very mountain. — The other is a small waterfall, seen through the window of a summer-house, and is beautiful beyond description. On this cascade Mr. Gilpin says — '• One of these, though but a miniature, is so beautiful, both in itself and its accompaniments, as to deserve particular notice. It is seen from a summer-house ; before which its rocky cheeks, circling on each side, form a little area, appearing through tlic window like a picture in a frame. The waterfalls within a few yards of the eye, which being rather above its level, has a long perspective view of the stream, as it hurries from the higher grounds, tumbling, in various little breaks, through its rocky chan- nel, darkened with thicket, till it arrive at the u 3 ^2 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR GR edge of the precipice before the window, from whence it rushes into the bason, which is formed by nature in the native rock. The dark colour of the stone, taking still a deeper tinge from the wood which hangs over it, sets oflf to wonderful advantage the sparkling lustre of the stream, and produces an uncommon eft'ect of light. It is this effect indeed from which the chief beauty of thib little exhibition arises." Ascend Rydal-head, the mountain behind Rydal-hall, which is covered with soft herbage intermixed with a few bursting rocks. The as- cent is steep ; but tlie view from the top amply repays the toil of climbing it. From hence we see the lakes and vales of Grasmere and Ry dal pleasingly delineated far below our feet, and on which we look down, almost pcrpendicularh ., observing every sweep, in the line of shore. — Be- yond these, the mountains, with verdant skirts, and bosoms purpled with heath, rise in various forms, and discover a small elevated lake, called Elter-water, seated high in the dimpled breast of one of them, and sending forth a white silvery stream, which joins the Brathay, and thence pushes over a succession of little cascades to mighty Windermere. This famous lake, which gradually unfolds itself during our ascent, now spreads out far and wide a shining mirror, stud- GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 225 (led with numerous islands, and half intersected by stretching promontories. Irregular, broken ridges of mountains bound the lake ; but more humble than the guardians of those lakes we have before seen, and softened with a profusion of wood, running up from the embayed borders of the water almost to the summits of the hills. Seats, farm-houses, and pleasant inclosures, sparkle among the trees, and decorate the scene. Over the western boundary of Windermere, Esthwaite-water, a small lake, is seen extending towards Hawkshead ; and to the right of that, Conistone-lake, an extensive sheet of water, stretches, in a long line, among the high rocky fells of Furness. Further still, the Irish Sea shines in the horizon, and washes a very indented shore. — Tracing back the prospect, the little town of Ambleside stands just before us ; while Rydal-hall is hid under the brow of the mountain upon which we stand. — On the other hand, the range of mountains extends to an imperceptible distance, covered with a dry, verdant turf, and rising up in pointed summits of different eleva- tions ; the most prominent of which are Dow- crags, Grisdale-pike, and Helvellin. Nothing can be conceived more romantic than an excur- sion over the tops of these mountains, which, with a gyidcj may be made without that dan- !^M A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR ger or iiieoiivenience which strangers generally conceive. The anonymous author of ^^ A Fortnight^s Ilanihle to the Lakes''^ traversed these hills to Ilelvellin, and, in his jocular style, gives us the following account of his views from thence :— ^* We then clambered to a heap of stones upon Grisdale-pike, or, as it is called by the country people, in remembrance of some rustic fun, DoUj/ Waggon Pike ; and I may venture to say, she has a more commanding prospect than any Dolly in the kingdom : to the west, im- mense mountains that hide the vale of Borrow- dale, shewing three lakes, and the sea bounding them ; to the east, fleecy clouds are rolling about the hills, and she appears (from our situation) the head of a delightful valley and of U Us- water : plainly shewing us Gowb^rrow Park, Dunmallet Head, and the outlet of the lake. " We arc in the midst of sharp whirlwinds, which rustle up the dry moss, and by lifting up the skirts of my coat, have given some fine ^co- lours to my back. *^ On Whelps'de we see Bassenlhwaite- lake ; and after declining in order to ascend the GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 225 souili-east flank of Helvellin, a hill, a mile long, extends to the east, so narrow, you might sit across any part of the ridge. The clouds are fly- ing before the wind, and reflect their shadows so fantastically, that beggars what we admired when on Windermere, But, as we have had a hard march, I will close this chapter." After mentioning his arrival at the highest pinnacle of Helvellin, he says — "The view gets more hazy ; still the mag- nificence around is beyond description. Moun- tains towering above hills, as if they were pa- rents of numerous families, and Helvellin in the centre of them. — Skiddaw is below us to the north. Cross-fell is large enough to be visible from an exalted summit, and is only exceeded by Ingleborough, in Yorkshire, which holds her crowned head amidst a chain of hills, and seems from her height, deserving of her royal appear- ance. " Old Man is just in sight, and old friends deserve not to be forgotten. Place-fell cuts off a branch of Ulls-water, and makes the shape of the lake resemble a pair of breeches, inlaid with pasturage about the old church as rich, as nature and industry can make it. — ^Just under us is Red- 2^ A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR tarn, shaped like a Bury pear ; if I had but a draught of it, it would be worth all the fruit in the world, for my tongue cleaves to the roof of my mouth. '^ Havens are croaking, and the wind, which did not blow when I began to write, is coming on in flurries." We return to Rydal, and from thence through a pleasant variety of woods and fields, p^roceed to Ambleside, which is one mile dis- tant. The following concise account of a journey from Keswick to Ambleside, by the descriptivfe pen of Mrs. Hadclifpe, is so interesting, that we cannot resist the temptation to insert it :-. "The road from Keswick to Ambleside commences by the ascent of Castle-rigg, the mountain which the Penrilh road descends, and which, on that side, is crowned by a Druid 'e temple. The rise is now very laborious, but the views it affords over the vale of Keswick are not Bearly purchased by the fatigue. All Bassen- ihwaite, its mountains softening away in the per- .^pedivc, and terminating, on tlic wc?f, in the GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 227 sister woods of Withop-brows, extends from the eye ; and, immediately beneath, the northern end of Dervvent-watcr, with Cawsey-pike, Thorn- thwaite-fell, the rich upland vale of Newland peeping from between their bases, and the spiry woods of Foe-park jutting into the lake below. But the finest prospect is from a gate about half way up the hill^ whence you look down upon the head of Derwent -water, with all the Alps of Bor- rowdale, opening darkly. «< After descending Castle-rigg, and cross- ing the top of St. John's vale, we seemed as if going into banishment from society, the road then leading over a plain, closely surrounded by mountains so wild, that neither a cottage or a wood soften their rudeness, and so steep and bar- ren that not even sheep appear upon their sides. From this plain the road enters Legberthwaite, a narrow valley, running at the back of Borrow- dale, green at the bottom, and varied with a few farms, but without Avood, and with fells of grey precipices rising to great height, and nearly per- pendicular on either hand, whose fronts are marked only by the torrents that tumble from their utmost summits,- and perpetually occur. We often stopped to listen to their hollow sounds, amidst the solitary greatness of the scene, and to watch their headion<^ fall down the rocky chasms, 228 OR their white foam and silver line contrasting with the dark hue of the clefts. In sublimity of des- cent these were frequently much superior to that of Lodore, but as much inferior to it in mass of water and picturesque beauty. " As the road ascended towards Helvellin, we looked back through this vast rocky vista to the sweet vale of St. John, lengthening the per- spective, and saw, as through a telescope, the broad broken steeps of Saddleback, and the points of Skiddaw, darkly blue, closing it to the north. The grand rivals of Cumberland were now seen together ; and the road soon winding high over the skirts of Helvellin, brought us to Leathes- water, to which the mountain forms a vast side skreen, during its whole length. This is a long, but narrow and unadorned lake, having little else than walls of rocky fells, starting from its mar- gin. Continuing on the precipice, at some height from the shore, the road brought us, after three miles, to the poor village of Wythburn, and soon after to the foot of Dun- mail-raise, which, though a considerable ascent, forms the dip of two lofty mountains, Steel-fell and Seat Sandle, that rise with finely sweeping lines on each side, and shut up the vale. ''' Beyond Dun-mail-raise, one of the grand GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 229 passes from Cumberland into Westmoreland. Helm-crag rears its crest, a strange fantastic sum- mit, round, yet jagged and splintered like the wheel of a water-mill, overlooking Grasmerc, which, soon after, opened below. A green spreading circle of mountains embosoms this small lake, and, beyond, a wider range rises ia amphitheatre, whose rocky tops are rounded and scalloped, yet arc great, wild, irregular, and were then overspread with a tint of faint purple. The softest verdure margins the water, and min- gles with corn inclosures and woods, that wave up the hills ; but scarcely a cottage any where appears, except at the northern end of the lake, where the village of Grasmere and its very neat white church stand among trees, near the shore, with Helm-crag, and a multitude of fells, rising over it and beyond each other in the perspective. ^' The lake was clear as glass, reflecting the headlong mountains, with every feature of every image on its tranquil banks : and one green island varies, but scarcely adorns its surface, bearing only a rude and now shadeless hut. At a considerable height above the water, the road undulates for a mile, till, near the southern end of Grasmere, it mounts the crags of a fell, and seemed carrying us again into such scenes of ruin and privation as we had quitted with Leg* X gSO A DESCRIPTIVE TOUIl ; OR berthwaite and Leathes^water. But, descending the other side of the mountain j we were soon cheered by the view of plantations, enriching the banks of Rydal-water, and by thick woods, mingling among cliffs above the narrow lake, which winds round a close valley for about a mile. This lake is remarkable for the beauty of its small round islands, luxuriant with elegant trees and shrubs, and whose banks are green to the water's edge. Rydal-hall stands finely on an eminence^ somewhat withdrawn from the east end, in a close romantic nook, among old woods, that feather the fells which rise over their sum* mits, and spread widely along the neighbouring eminences. This ancient white mansion lookg over a rough grassy descent, skreened by groves of oak and majestic planes, towards the head of Windermere, about two miles distant, a small glimpse of which is caught beyond the wooded steeps of a narrow valley. In the woods, and in the disposition of the ground around Rydal* hall, there is a charming wildness, that suits the character of the general scene ; and wherever art appears, it is with graceful plainness and meek subjection to nature, "■' The taste by which a cascade in the plea- sure grounds, pouring under the arch of a rude bridge, amidst the green tints -^of wood?, is she-^". GUIDE iO THE LAKES. 231 ihroiigb a darkened garden house, and, therefore, with all the effect which the opposition of light and shade can give, is even not too artificial ; so admirably is the intent accomplished of making all the light that is admitted fall upon the ob" ^cts which are chiefly meant to be observed. " The road to Ambleside runs through the Talley in frontof Rydal-hall, and, for some dis- tance, among the grounds that belong to it, where again the taste of the owner is conspicuous in the disposition of plantations apiong pastures of extraordinary riclifiess, and where pure rivu- lets are suffered to wind, without restraint, oyev their dark rocky channels. Woods mantle U[j the cliffs on either side of this sweet valley ; and, I,!c,»cr ziiil^ th^. civ.'^^^' Blffiffiitj of the fells crowd over the scene. — Tsvo miles among i(s pleasant shades, near the banks of the murmur- ing Rotha, brought us to A^nbleside, a black and very ancient little tovfn, hanging on the lower steeps of a mountain, where the vale opens to the head of Y/indenuere . ' ' Ambleside, though a small marlict-fown, has only the appearance of a large village ; it stands in a pleasant situation, is tolerably built, and contains two good inns. — M\ Harrison* has a neat house just above the town ; and ano- o 232 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR tiier good hoase here belongs to Mrs. Taylor. — The vestige of a Roman station may be seen between it and the head of Windermere ; this station lies in a meadow on a level with the wa- ter, and is supposed to be that called the Dietis, T/bere a part of the Cohors Nerviorum Dictenliiim v/as stationed. We now leave Ambleside, and proceed to survey the beauties of WINDERMERE, first by pursuing the road along its eastern shore. — Travelling about a mile through winding shady lanes ^ we come to the head of the lake : and, at the liirnpike.gale. Iiavo an open view of its upper end. The road continues almost on a level with the lake, which now recedes a little, and we only see it at intervals through embower- ing trees, till we arrive at Low-wood Inn, where it again approaches the road, and spreads oat be- fore us into an immense shining plain of water, curiously scalloped along the opposite shore, where the sloping hills display a pleasing mix- ture of woodland and beautiful farms. — This neat and finely situated inn stands on the borders of the lake, over which it has a commanding view. A small cannon is kept here, for the pur- GUtPE T0 THE LAKES. S33 pose of gratifying the curious in exciting those surprising echoes for which this vale is so re- in arkuble, and to which the following lines are not unapplicable :— -** 1 he cannon's roar Bursts from the bosom of the hollow shore : The dire explosion the whole concave fills, And shakes the firm foundation of the hills. Now pausing deep, now bellowing from a-far, Now rages near the elemental war. Affrighted Echo operls all her cells ; With gather'd strength the posting clamour swells : Check'd or impell'd, and varying in its course, It slumbers — now awakes with double force ; Searching the strait, and crooked hill and dale. Sinks in the breeze, or rises in the gale : Chorus of earth and sky \ the mountains sing, And Heaven's own thunders thro' the valleys ring." KiLLARNET. We now leave the margin of the water, and travel through groves, secluded farms, and parks, scarcely gaining a glimpse of the lakp, till we ar- rive opposite Colgarth, when it again opens to the view, at half a mile distance. The sweet in- tervening vale, finely cultivated, and graced with the elegant new mansion of Colgarth, is the property and common place of residence of the Jlight Reverend the Jjord Bishop of Lan- ©AFFj whose agricultural improyementshere me^ x3 LAKES IN LANCASHIRE & WMS TMOIiMLiNJ) 234 OR rit the attention of every stranger, and the imita- tion of every Westmoreland farmer.. About half a mile further we reach a geacly-risng eminence, from whence we view the principal part of the lake, with all its picturesque islands. The bound- ing mounta ns, though high, are greatly inferior to those on the confines of the lakes we have al- ready seen, and slope irregularly to the water, leaving on this side an uneven border of low ground. — Here we stand on the side of a ridge •which is cultivated, or wooded, to the top ; with its base bespangled with seats, villages, and small farms. On the opposite side, the rocky range of hills, descending quickly to the water, leaves lit- tle room for cultivation ; but are beautifully studded with bulging rocks peeping through the verdant turf, and trees scattered over the surface, or collected in woods, hanging wildly on the mountain's brow. — These guardian hills having reached that end of the lake which we have left, rise grandly in lofty heights, and overlook the lesser hills with sullen pridcy shewing at their feet the little white seats of Mr. Law and Miss Pritchard ; the former at Brathay, and the latter at Clappergate. On the left, low points of la^d^CPni each shore, running far into the lake, contract it to the volpme of a noble winding river, ■which, after emerging from the islands, expands again; and soon becomes a majestic lake. Immc« GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 235 diately in front, a spacious bay approaches us, giving a breadth of more than a mile, and after- wirds sweeps away to the right, alternately con- tracting and dilHtmg its indented shores, till it reaches the smooth soft bases of that noble am- phitheatre of raoimtains above mentioned. This lake, taken ait oget tier, m-iy be compared to a mirror of immense size and rude shape, set in a huge concave frame of grotesque figure, adorned w th the grandest carvings and lace-work, in a vaiiety of the richest colours, and altogerher bearing the negligent air of Nature's original workmanship. This view is not seen to advantage, except in the morning, or in the absence of the sun ; nor is that general commanding view from an eraineoce above Bowness, which is thus elegantly described by Mr. Young, less subject to the same inconvenience : — ^* Thus having viewed the most pleasing objects from these points, let me next conduct you to a spot, where, at one glance, you com- mand them all in fresh situations, and all assum- ing a new appearance. For this purpose, you return to the village, and, taking the bye-road to the turnpike, mount the hill without turning your head (if I was your guide, I would conduct 1236 A DESCntPTlVE TOUR 5 OR I'ou behind a small hill, that you might come at once upon the view) lill you almost gain the top, when you will be struck with astonishment at thc prospcct spread at your feet, which, if not the most superlative view that Nature can exhibit, she is more fertile in beauties than the reach of my imagination will allow^ me to conceive. It would be mere vanity to attempt to describe a scene which beggars all description ; but that you may have some faint idea of the outlines of this wonderful picture, I will just give the parti- culars of which it consists. *' The point on which you stand is the side of a large ridge of hills that form the eastern boundary of the lake, and the situation high enough to look down upoa all the objects — a cir- cumstance of great importance, which painting cannot imitate. In landscapes, you are either ou a level with the objects, or look up to them ; the painter cannot give the decl vity at your feet, which lessens the object as much in the perpendi- cular line as in the horizontal one. You look down upon a noble winding valley, of about twelve miles long, every where inclosed with grounds, which rise in a very bold and various manner ; in some places bulging into mountains, abrupt, wild, and uncultivated ; in others break- ing into rocks, craggy, pointed, ojkI inegular ^ GUTDiE to THE LAKES. 237 here rising into hills covered with the noblest woods, presenting a gloomy brownness of shade, almost from the clouds, to the reflection of the trees in the limpid water of the lake they so beau- tifully skirt ; their waving in glorious slopes of cultivated inclosurcs, adorned in the sweetest manner with every object that can give variety to art, or elegance to nature : trees, woods, villages, houses, farms, scattered with picturesque confu- sion, and waving to the eye in the most romantic landscapes that nature can exhibit. *^ This valley, so beautifully inclosed, is floated by the lake, which spreads forth to the right and left, in one vast but irregular expanse of transparent water ; a more noble object can lv:!rd'Y be imagined. Its immediate shore is tra- ced in every variety of line that fancy can ima- gine ; sometimes contracting the lake into the ap- pearance of a noble winding river ; at others retiring from it, and opening into large bays, as if for navies to anchor in; promontories spread with woods, or scattered with trees and inclosures, projecting into the water in the most picturesque stile imaginable ; rocky points breaking the shore, and rearing their bold heads above the wa- ter ; in a word, a variety that amazes the be- holder. — But what finishes the scene with an ele- gance too delicious to be imagined; is, this beau- ^3B A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR I OR \ ■ tiful sheet of water being dotted with no less than ten islands, distinctly comprehended by the eye ; ail of the most bewitching beauty. The large one presents a waving various line, which rises from the water in the most picturesque inequali- ties of surface ; high land in one place, low in another, clumps of trees in this spot, scattered ones in that, adorned by a farm-house on the wa- ter's edge, and backed with a little wood^ vying in simple elegance with Baromean palaces : some of the smaller islets ris-ing from the lake, like little hills of wood ; some only scattered with trees, and others of grass of the finest verdure ; a more beautiful variety is no where to be seen» " Stbain your imagination to command tho icier, ot so noble an f xpaiisc Cn. vvoii^i", l,;u« gloriously environed, spotted with islands, more beautiful than v/ould have iss'ued from the happi- est painter. Picture the mountains rearing their majestic heads with native sublimity ; the vast rocks boldly project ing their terrible craggy points ; and, in the path of beauty, the variega- ted inclosures of the most charming verdure, hane-ina: to the eye in every picturesque form that can grace landscape, with the most exquisite touches of la belle nature. If you raise your fancy to something infinitely beyond the assem- blage of rural elegancies, you may have a (siini GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 939 tiotion of the unexampled beauties of this ravish- ing landscape." We now descend to Bowness, a pleasant, well-built village, which Mr. Gilpin stiles the *^ capital port town of the lake." — *' It is," says he, " the great mart for fish and charcoal ; both of which commodities are largely imported here, and carried by land into the country. Its harbour is crowded with vessels of various kinds ; some of which are used merely as pleasure^^boats in na- vigating the lake." — Mr. Taylor has a small, pleasantly-situated house at Bell-field, near this place, A pleasant road of near a mile leads from hence, through a beautiful part of the vale, to the Ferry .point, a low, extended, and narrow neck of land ; towards which another point stretches from the opposite shore, and forms what is called the Straits of Windermere. — ^A ferry*.boat is kept here in readiness to convey horses, carriages, &c, across the lake.-— At Bow* ness we take a boat, and navigate to Cur wen's Island, which runs obliquely across the lake. It is of an oblong shape, swelling in the middle, and pointed at each end ; and contains 27 acres of land.-rJoHN Chrjstian Curwen, Esq, the present proprietor of this charming island^ has 240 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR joined every assistance of Art to the fine disposi- tions of Nature, in rendering it a most delightful retreat. Sweet groves, pleasant walks, and ver- dant lawns, with a neat house, in a proper situa- tion, and without one formal or direct line to of- fend the eye : all contribute towards its beauties. — From hence we have some of the finest viev/s on the lake. The northern shores afford a mix- ed prospect of the beautiful and sublime ; a num- ber of scattered islands interrupt the line of uni- formity, which would otherwise bound a reach of the lake four miles and a half in length, and, in some parts, above one in breadth. These islands, in shape and cloathing, display a pleasing varie- ty in the fore-ground of the picture. The side skreens are different ; that on the left consists of a rocky ridge, descending to the water, partly covered with verdure, on which flOcks of moun- tain sheep are seen feeding, and partly cloathed with thick woods, or scattered with straggling trees and evergreen shrubs, over which the heights of Furness-fells are peeping into the lake. On the right, neat villages and farms, half buri- ed in wood, form a delightful mixture of wood- land and cultivated fields stretching, in a gradual ascent, from the water*s edge to the tops of some of the hills. In front v/e have a large collection of high mountains, with pointed summits, rear- ing up in different atfitudes. and one overlooking I GUIDE TO THE LAKES. . 2^1 the top of another, as if anxious to gaze on the beauties of the hike. Turning to the south, we observe the lake extending many miles in that direction, with variety of shore, and patched with islands. In every point of view, mountains, at different distances, raise their bulky crests, and form a noble amphitheatre round the lake. From the southern side, also, a good pros- pect opens before us, particularly to the foot of the lake. The two ferry points creeping towards each other, with the island of Crow-holme on the right, form a picturesque strait, through which Berkshire island, towards the centre of the lake, is seen raising its head above the water. — Beyond this, Rawlinson's Nab on the west, and Stors 5oint on the east, are two bold promontories^ which push abruptly into the lake. The line of shore on each side is much indented, and sweetly fringed with trees ; while the waving hills which guard the lake are cloathed either with a com«» bination of verdant fields and sweeping woods, ©r a mixture of grey rock bursting through a grassy turf, and scattered evergreen trees and shrubs. On this island the artist will find some good stations for making drawings of the lake and its environs. ^i^ A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR Curwen's Island is thus described by the elegant and correct pea of Mr. Gilpin : — " In one of these we embarked, and standing out to sea, made for the island, which we were in- formed was a very interesting scene. ^' We soon arrived at it ; and landing at the south end, we ordered our boat to meet us at the north point, meaning to traverse its little boundaries. **^ A more sequestered spot cannot easily be conceived. Nothing can be more excluded from the noise and interruption of life ; or abound with a greater variety of those circumstances which make retirement pleasing, ^* The whole island contains about thirty acres. Its form is oblong ; its shores irregular, letiring into bays, and broken into creeks. The surface, too, is uneven ; and a sort of little Ap- penine ridge runs through the middle of it, fall» isg down in all shapes into the water. Like its great mother island, the southern part wears a smoother aspect thau the northern, which is bro«. ken ^d rocky. ^^ FoRSiERLY the whole island wns one entire GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 243 grove. At present it is rather bare of wood, though there are some large oaks upon it, ^^ One of its greatest beauties arises from that irregular little Appenine just mentioned, whicli extends from one end to the other. This circum- stance hides its insularit?/, by connecting it with the continent. In every part, except on the high grounds, you stand in an amphitheatre composed of the noblest objects ; and the lake performing the office ojf a sunk fence, the gran- deur of each part of the continent is called in, by turns, to aid the insignificance of the island. *^ Th« oblong form also x)f the lake giv^st}^ island a;nother great advantage. On both it,s sides the opposite shores of the continent are little more than Iialf a mile distant : but at the north- ern and southern, points there is a large sheet of water. The views, therefore, as you walk round, are continually changing through all the varie- ties of distance ; which are still farther improved by a little degree of obliquity in the position of the island.'* The same author also relates the following curious fact : — ^^ This island formerly belonged to the y 2 2M A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR Philipsons, a family of note in Westmoreland, During the civil wars, two of them, an elder and a younger brother, served the King. The former, who was the proprietor of it, commanded a regiment : the latter was a Major. " The Major, whose name was Robert, was a man of great spirit and enterprize; and, for his many feats of personal bravery, had obtaineE§CR1PT1VE TaUR ; OB an irregular shaped, woody island. — Hoiise~ liolme is an island of small extent.— -Hen«- Lolme is a rock cloalhed with shrubs. — Lady- holmej covered with coppice wood j is of an oval form, and on which th^re formerly stood an ora- tory. — ^Rough-holme is somewhat circular, and adorned with trees. This is the most northerly, — iCrow-holme, near the ferry point, between it and CuRWEN*s Island, is wooded, and forms ^ fine promontory. — The lake twines delightfully among these islands, and, after disengaging itself, extends between sweeping shores, far to the north, till it reaches the feet of that noble assemblage of lofty, conical-topped, mountains forming the ^rand northern scene we observed before. The opposite side displays all the pleasing variety of neat buildings (among whxh is that of Sir John Legard, Bart, at Siors), looking fom thick groves of tices over the lake, waving woods and Cultivated fields ascending in irregu.ar order over the tops of the lower range of hiiis, with rocky heights of various aspects overlooking the whole. The rugged crags of Bi cot-how contrast finely with the cultivated tops of Banne-rigg and Orrest-head ; and the conic-topped mountain Hill-bell, vies wit-h his lofty neighbours, Fairfield and Rydal-head, This pleasjng scene is iscr^ased as ws turn our eyes toward? the otji^r end fif :^e eastera GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 249 coast. Scattered houses stand secreted in the sweetest recesses, and surrounded with fields and litfle groves ; above which the mountainous ridge, fronted with interspersed woods, runs to the bottom of the lake. From that side, the Stors, a wooded cape, steps considerably into the water, as if intending to reach the little rocky island of Ling-holme ; and from this side, about three miles southwards, Rawlinson's Nab, a bold erowned promontory, stretches far into the lake. Beyond this latter jutting rock, the lake expands, and is seen winding far to the south, till it appa- rently loses itself behind a headland on the other side ; while the blue indented summits of distant mountains, over the tops of two woody hills, called Park and Landen-nab, close the scene. The broken-lopped ridge on this side is higher, and falls more rapidly into the water, than that, on the other ; it is spotted with grey rocks, and scattered trees ; and large woods hang on its grizzly brows. That part immediately behind us, and for a considerable distance on each hand, is most picturesquely scattered with hol- lies, yews, juniper, ivy, and other evergreens, which grow from the rocky precipices, and up- on the little knolls, in a curious manner, and thereby form a beautiful picture, which varies with almost every progressive step. These plea- sing pictures are rendered still more strikingly 250 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR sweet, when the ash, the oak, and the sycamore, are touched with the golden pencil of Autumn ; thus grouping together every little tint, contrast- ed in a beautiful manner. — This station may either be visited in this part of our tour, or defer- red to the last, as it is on the road to Hawkshead, We return to the ferry, and traverse the lake for a few miles towards the south. In this route, touch at every island and promontory ^s they occur. The lake assumes new features as we proceed, and seems to be cut in two by Cub« wen's Island, which apparently joins tJie ferry poinds. The house on the island, and the ferry- house, now become still better objects. Sylvan scenes of great beauty decorate the western side; while the eastern displays a profusion of rural views, in all the magnificence of improved taste. We arrive at Rawlinson's Nab, a penin- sular rock of circular figure, with its crown-fopt head covered with wood. Ascending the interior nab, we see the lake bending in difl^srent direc- tions, in two fine sheets of water^ The southern stretch is circumscribed by rough wooded hills, interspersed with inclosures and bursting rocks, forming a variety of shore. The northern view is more beautiful, being pleasantly broken with promontories and little islands : the fine cultiva- GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 25t ted slopes intermingled with waving woods on one side, finely contrasted with the wild, abrupt- ly-rising ridge on the other ; and the whole ter- minated with a back-ground of distant high mountains. This is an excellent station for the exercise of the pencil : advanced considerably into the lake, we command a variety of the finest scenes. From Low-cat-crag, which is a little way south of the Nab, there are also good views both up and down the lake. The former is peculiarly pleasing, extending as far as Cur wen's Island, with the ferry points, the Stors, the Nab, and se- veral of the smaller islands, distinctly in sight. These, with other concurring circumstances, render the landscape pleasing and interesting, Mr. West says — ^' The fish of this lake are char, trout, perch, pike, and eel. Of the char there are two varieties, the case char, and the gelt char ; the latter is a fish that did not spawn the last season, and is on that account more delicious, ^' The greatest depth of the lake is, opposite to Ecclerigg-crag, 222 feet. The fall from Newby-bridge, where the current of the lake be- comes visible, to the high water-mark of the tide 252 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR at Low- wood (distant two miles) is 105 feet : the bottom of the lake is therefore 1 17 feet below the high water-mark of the sea.** If the visitor be inclined, and have time for such an excursion, the whole lake may be navi- gated with various and increased pleasure — new scenes presenting themselves to the view at almost every stroke of the oar. "*• Mr. Gilpin concludes his observations on Windermere with the following account of its char fishery, and other singular properties : — '' Among the great variety offish which in- habit the extensive waters of this lake, the char is the most remarkable. It is near twice the size of a herring. Its back is of an olive-green ; its belly of a light vermilion, softening in some into white, and changing into a deep red at the inser- tion of the fins. '' A parcel of char, just caught, and thrown] together into the luggage-pool of a boat, makes pleasant harmony of colouring. The green-oliv( tint prevails ; to which a spirit is here and there given by a light blush of vermilion, and by a strong touch of red, if a fin happen to appear. These pleasing colours are assisted by the bright G u^^xE. .,T Oi p:^^ , L4,Ki:s . , 2^^ silvery lights which play over the ..wjipl^ .^pd which nothing reflects more beautifully tb^n the ccales of fish . ^' Char are caught only in the wiijiter sea- son, when twenty dozen in a day are sometimes taken by a single boat. In summer they retire to ihe rocky caves below, some of which are said to be unfathomable : nor do they breed in any lake in which such deep recesses are not found. *' The char fishing is a very profitable branch of trade to the proprietors of the lake. The whole area of it is divided into Rye districts. An ima- ■ginary line crosses the surface from crag to crag vr— a limit which the fisherman correctly knows. But though the space of each fishery is nearly equal, yet the produce is otherwise ; the fish running in shoals sometimes in one part of the lake, and sometimes in another. — When the farmer rents land, he can judge of his bargain by .the surface ; when he rents water, he must take his chance. '' But fish are not the only inhabitants of this lake. — Innumerable flights of water -fowl fre- quent its extensive plain. The naturalist may declare their names and classes ; the painter has only to remark the variety of fojijai^ ia whi^h z 254 OR they appear — sometimes sitting in black groups upon the water, rising and sinking with the waves ; at other times in the air, circling the lake in figured files ; or, with hesitating wing, seizing some station on its banks or surface. '' I have only to add, that this magnificent piece of water suffers little change, in appear' ance^ from seasons : but preserves the dignity of its character under all circumstances ; seldom depressed, and as seldom raised above its ordina- ry level. — Even in the most violent rains, when the country is drenched in water, when every rill is swelled into a river, and the mountains pour down floods through new channels, the lake maintains the same equal temper ; and though it may spread a few yards over its lower shores (whicli is the utmost it docs) yet its increase is seldom the object of observation ; nor does the severity of the greatest drought make any const* derable alteration in its bounds. Once (it is re- '' corded) it rose seven feet in perpendicular height. Its boundaries would then certainly appear en- larged : but this was a very uncommon case; and was probably owing to the burst of a water-spout. " But if it be not raised by rains, it is often greatly agitated by winds. Of all the lakes of this country, none lies so exposed as this. GUIDE TO THE LAKES. through the whole length of it, to sudden squalls — nor does any piece of fresh water in the whole island perhaps emulate the grandeur of a disturb- ed ocean so much. It is of course navigated with great caution, whenever there is a tendency, to stormy weather. Many accidents have shewn the necessity of this caution ; but one made aa impression on the country which a century hajj, not effaced. Several people in the neighbour- r hood of Bowness having been attending a fair at Hawkshead, a town on the other side of the lake, I^ einbarked, in the evening, on their return i^iti^;; but before this little voyage could be per-, formed, so violent a storm arose, that their boats foundered, and no fewer than forty -seven per- sons perished.** We now leave the vale and lake of Winder- mere, and proceed towards Hawkshead, along an excellent road, of about four miles. This road leaves the horse-ferry, and crossing a lower part of the mountain (where we have a new and^le- vated prospect of Windermere) it runs along the borders of Esthwaite-water to Hawkshead. — Another road, of five miles, leads from Amble^ side round the head of Windermere ; but that by the ferry seems the more eligible, as it affords us a better view of z 2 256^^ A DfiSCRlPTIVE TOUR 5 Oil ESTHTVAITE'WATER. This lake is about two miles in length and half a mile in breadth ; and is almost divided by a pe^* ninsuta running forward into the water from each(*' sid'^. These swelling projections are beautifully* rfinged with trees and coppice wood, and culti^^ vated at the top. The vale, in whose lap this^ lake reposes, is not bounded by those rbugb,^ grotesque, or rude barriers which seem to stami aS the guardians of most other lakes ; its banks, undulating irregularly, are in general covered with soft verdure, cut in various figures witb Ifedge-rows ; cloathed also in pfart with little gt-oves and hanging woods, and varied with tracts of uncultivated grounds. — Bell-mont, a genteel, modern-built house, is beautifully situated, with a'iebtnfmanding view of the lake and its environs. -^Nfear the head of the lake there is a small float- iiig island, containing about two perches, covered i#rth shrul«. It is said to have broken from the main land about ten years ago, and was for some ^ tirtie tossed about i« different directions by every pirevailing gust of wind, till, running aground, abd a long calm, or cessation of contrary winds, succeeding, it has been stationary since that time, aM it is thought to have obtained at least a tem- porary hold of the bottom with the roots of the' bushes. GUIDE TO THE LAKES. . 257 The fish found in this lake are perch, pike, eel, and trout. Although it is connected with Windermere, no char have hitherto been caught in it : probably owing to a want of depth for the encouragement of this species of fish. Hawkshead, in a hoary garb, appears be- fore us towards the head of this pleasing vaJe, hanging on the easy declivity of a mountainous ridge, with the tall heads of Coniston-fells shoot- ing up far behind. The church stands on an eminence, which renders it a conspicuous object, and from whence there is an extensive prospect over ihe vale and lake below. — Hawkshead is a small market-town, tolerably built; but the houses are too much crowded together to render it agreeable. It contains some tolerable inns (at one of which, viz. the Red Lion^ kept by Mr, JoBSON, we met with good accommodations) and between 300 and 400 inhabitants. — Here is an excellent free school, founded by Archbishop Sandys, a native of this place, which is at pre- sent in good repute, and well conducted, and •where many able men have re'ceived the princi* pal part of their education. — A neat town-house was lately built by subscription, of whch the chief part is said to have been gratefully contri- buted by London merchants, who had be«n edu* cated at this school. Z3 A OESciRipfitB taUtt ; on " NeAr Hawksliead are tbe remains ot i]ie house where the Abbot of Furiress kept residence By one or tftofe monks, who performed divine ^l^vice, and oiher parochial duties in the !ieig}f« bourhood : and there is stiil a ^ourt-room over the gateway, where the bailiff of Hawkshead lield court, and distributed justice, in the liame qf the Abbot.'* — Mrs. Radcli^fe. We now pursue our route towards Coni^fcfff- Wsiter. After leaving the plecrsaat winding lanes of Hawkshead, we ascend a barren, hestthy ridge ; fvhere, turning eastwards, we catcli another vie^f ^f Windermere, with the (feclivities afbottt Ait^ Blesi^e. As we advance, Coniston-fell^ seem to ittultiply, and become still more striking ,- and, Aearer to the eye, two lower rocky ridges, cloath- «'d with purple^ and with broken tops, rUn to- ■^atds Ambleside, forming curious precipices and ^eep chasms. The road descends, when CONIBTON-LAKE i^ati dpens its bosom before us, with the dark blue fells of Furness rising from its northern margin in a bold, though not precipitous manner. Out tOute lies along the southern side, near the bor- ders of the lakej and under a sloping ridge, "which somewhat corresponds with the opposite sbore^ but irt a stjle more Humble. The' t?h whose fronts are dry, and covered with fern* These ragged mountains, from whose bases many clear springs are constantly bubbling, continue running in ridges on each side, to Newton, which is a small village, in a good situation ; but the houses are aukwardly jumbled together. A road runs from hence to Cartmel; but we pur- sue that towards Milnthorp, which soon ascends a mountain, from whence a fine prospect opens to^ wards the east, over a collection of the most rug* ged hills, one looking over another, a* far as tht eye can reach. The extensive plain on th^ crown of Whitbarrow appears wholly covered with rocks ; and its jagged sides exhibit little be- sides hoary crags and brushwood. We descend the steep front of Zawtup, in a zigzag direction, to Witherslack-beck, and from thence wind along^ tiie base of that tremendous precipice Wither* slack-scar, a limestone rock of very great height. The face of this scar, as well as the vale below, seems almost wholly composed of crags, inter- mixed with hazel and other bushes, among which the holly, ivy, juniper, and other evergreens, beautify the motley scene. In front, we see a large, flat, and low dis- trict, running far into the country, towards Ken- dal on the one hand, and extending to the estuary 2 A f 268 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR Jjelow Milnthorp on the other. This is chiefly peat-moss, and from which Kendal and all the neighbouring villages are principally supplied with fuel.— On the right, Castle-head, a pleasant seat of Mr. Wilkinson, situated under a wood- ed hill, and fronting the Lancaster Sands, is seen defying the approach of the threatening waves. But the delightful scenery immediately around us attracts our particular attention : we ride un- der white cliflTs of great height, beautifully deck- ed with a variety of evergreen shrubs, intermi^xed with hazel. A hasty slope of about 100 yards, covered with rocky shiver, ascends from the road, above which the solid rock rises perpendi- cularly to the height of 40 or 50 yards, having a faint resemblance of the old fluted walls, towers, and battlements, of an immense castle in ruins. Just below us, a few small antiquated rural farms are arranged in the sweetest situations. We now quit the vicinity of this romantic scar, and pursue an ill-made road of about a mile through the moss, whereon nothing very in- teresting presents itself, except the -striking con- trast between the soft, sable ground on which we tread, and the white crags we have just left be- hind. To the west, Milnthorp and Lancaster Sands spread out a shining surface as far as t he- eye can reach ; and, on ihQ east, this large, dark- GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 969 coloured peat-moss is bordered with a few little grey cottages, the inhabitants of which chiefly obtain a livelihood by digging peats, and carry- ing them in carts to Kendal. Above these cot- tages, the elevated hills on every side are beauti- fully covered with green herbage, crowned with two or three clumps of trees, and scattered over with hoary rocks and verdant juniper. At the village of Beethwaite-green, which stands on the southern side of the peat-moss, we turn on the right, down a narrow lane, to Levens. Another road also leads directly from this village to Kendal, leaving Sizergh-hall a little on the left. This venerable old mansion, the seat of the ancient family of SrnicKLANDSjstandsin a plea- sant situation, under an elevated back-ground, covered with wood and verdant turf, and look- ing towards the cast over a great extent of fertile, waving, and wooded grounds on both sides of the Kent. — Sizergh, like most other old houses, has been built for defence : a strong square tower i^ defended by two square turrets, and battlements ; one of which is over the great entrance, having a guard room, with embrazures, capable of hold- ing 10 or 12 men. The winding staircase termi- nates in a turret, which defends the other entrance'. Levels 'HALL is an ancient seat^ belonging 2 A S 270 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR to Lady Andover, danghter of the late Earl of Suffolk : its situation is such as to render it ca- pable of being made a delightful place. The gardens are laid out in an old style, and arc said to have been planned by the gardener of James II. who resided here v.ith Colonel Graham du- ring some part of the troubles of h is royal mas- ter. — From hence to Kendal there is a pleasant ride of five miles, along the east side of the river Kent, leading through the park : but it is neces- sary to be favoured with a key for the park from Levens or Kendal. The park displays a number - of the finest scenes : the river runs in a deep contracted dell, sometimes hurrjdng over preci- pices, and sometimes calmly stealing through pools of great depth, overhung with shaggy rocks, and cloathed with impending trees. Some fine old trees of enormous size, partly scattered over the plain, and partly collected into clumps ; the bulging rocks, and the romantically varied track of the river, all contribute to form a variety and succession of delightful scenes. For some miles above the park, we are entertained with a view of the pretty streams, cascades, and cataracts, form- ed by the Kent, which is inclosed with high, locky, and wooded banks, often rising perpendi- cularly to a great height.— Near the forge there is a fine waterfall of the whole river. From the top of Force bridge we see the river hurrying GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 271 ilirougb a narrow passage, between high shelv- ing rocks, in a deep glen.— Near this place are the large gunpowder works of Mr. Wakefield- — Above the village of Sedgewick a vein of mar- ble, belonging to Messrs. Strickland and WiivSON, runs across the river, and is worked on opposite sides. The Kent here continues (o push its waters along a deep, rocky, and narrow chan- nel, sy/eetly fringed with hanging woods, — Be- tween Sedgewick and Kendal there arc some ves-, tiges of Roman antiquity yet discernable, parti- cularly at Water-crook, and near the village of Natiand. The former is said by Mr. West to be the ^^ Concangium o^ the Romans, where a body of the Vigilatores (or watchmen) kept guard, and was the intermediate station betwixt the Dietis at Ambleside and the garrison at Overborough." — lie also says, that ^* in the wall of the barn, on the very icrea of the station, is still legible the inscription preserved by Mr. HoRSLEY, to the memory of the two freed men, with an imprecation against any one who should contaminate their sepulchre, and a fine to the fiscal."— On the crest of a green hill below Nat- land are the vestiges of a castellum, called Castle steads, which, the same author says, '* during the residence of the watchmen at Water-crook, corresponded (by smoke in the day, and jSame in the night) with the garrison at Lancaster^ from 272 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR tlie beacon at Warton-crag/* — There is also a house called Watch-house, at a little distance northwards, where Roman coins are said to have been found. This pleasing excursion may be taken/from Kendal ; and tourists may return thither along* the more elevated road by way of Sizergh. From Levens we pursue the (our to Miln- thorp, by way of Heversham, a neat, well-built village, two miles : the road good, and the couu* try pleasant and well wooded. MiLNTHORpis a small market- town, and the only seaport in Westmoreland. It consists chiefly of one street, which is pretty well built ; and at the east end there are some good houses, in pleasant and open situations. The surround* ing grounds are dry, fertile, and have a pleasing appearance, swelling and sinking gently into bil^ and dale. Three vessels belong to this port; one of which trades to Liverpool, carrying hoops, casks, limestone, gunpowder, &c. and returning Vyith wood, merchants* goods, 8sc. ; the other two sail to Port Glasgow and Annan, in Scotland, carry- ing leather; Kendal manufactures, &c. and briBg** GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 273 iiig in return, grain, potatoes, &c,— There are tbree rope-yards, two paper-mills, one flax^mill, and one cotton-mill ; all within a mile of the town. But what contributes most to enliven the prospects about Milnthorp and its neighbour- hood, is the elegant mansion of Daniel Wil- son, Esq. at Dallam-Tower, situated at the mouth of the estuary. A thick wood of tall trees climbs up a steep hill behind the house ; and a fine park, adorned with wood, and well stocked Tvith deer, extends in front, rising in a graceful swell. — At Beetbam-mill, near this place, there is a waterfall on the river Beele, which is worth the notice of the curious traveller. Proceed from hence to Burton, four miles. The country now becomes less hilly, with a more extensive vale ; or, rather, here is a junction of dilferent valleys : several rocky mountains arc, however, seen at a distance on each side. The road is good, and winds in narrow lanes through a pleasant country : the soil dry, gravelly, and tolerably fertile. Several neat farm-houses and villages are seen from the road ; and we are fre- quently presented with brooks as clear as crystal, which rise from copious springs about the feet of the mountains on the left. One of these springs, which rises in a village about midway between Milnthorp and Burton, is particularly striking ; S74 A »ESCRiPT»VE TOUR^ Oft the water which it throws out forms a rivulet of itself, and hurries its unpolluted stream, in a short course, to the sea. The bold limestone rock, cal- led Farlton-knot, said to bear some resemblance to the Rock of Gibraltar, is now a prominent ob- ject on the left ; and a remarkably craggy range of hills overlooks the vale on the right. Burton, or Burton in Kendal, is a small, well-built market-town, containing two good inns, and several elegant houses, particularly that of Major Pearson. — This town stands near the confines of the county, on a tract of ground tole- rably level ; a range of craggy mountains sweeps along at a little distance behnd ; while another ridge, partaking of the same qualities, stretches towards the sea, at a much greater distance, in front, — The Lancaster Canal passes near the town. — It stands on the London road, at an equal distance from La.ncaster and Kendal, at an easy stage of eleven miles. We pursue the great turnpike road, through a tolerably level and pretty fertile country, to Lancaster, having sometimes a tine view of the Sands and the northern mountains. Berwick- hall soon appears on the left : it was formerly the residence of Sir Robert Bindloss, but is at present only occupied as a farm*house. The I GUIDS TO THE LAKES* 275 road passes through the village of Bolton and some others of less note, and frequently crosses the new canal. But, in this part of the tour, it will be con- venient to visit that natural curiosity, called Dun- ald-mill-hole, which lies about three miles east from the Lancaster road. For this purpose we turn off to the left beyond Burton, along the road to Kellet, and pass through that little rural vil- lage. This road is rather elevated above the wide- ly-extended vale on the right, and affords us a prospect over the adjacent country. On the left, Farlton-knot, and the range of hills which runs eastwards, present a desolate or desert-like appearance ; while, on the other hand, the rocky fells above Yealand, over the valley, rise ledge above ledge, and are terminated by Warton-crag, a bold rock projecting into the sea. The coun- try, as we proceed, becomes rather hilly, and :hc more extensive views are soon shut up by the surrounding prominences. The soil is dry and gravelly ; and limestone rock is here and there |)eeping from the surface on the fronts of the hills. After passing a lime-kiln or two, and crossing a road, we turn down a narrow lane to a 976 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR mill, the roof of which wc may see at the d istaiice of 300 or 400 yards ^ looking out of a naked hol- low glen. This mill is close to the object of our present excursion. Here we observ^e a rivulet, or large brook, which, after turning the large wa- ter-wheel of the mill, immediately tumbles down a rugged descent of a few yards, and enters the gaping jaws of a rocky chasm on the side of a limestone craggy hill. This frightful gap is ro- mantically fringed with trees, which, growing from the rocks, and impending over the entrance, contribute greatly to the awful gloom. Immense frasrments of rocks hano: from the roof of the ori- fice, as if ready to drop down, and crush the in- truding visitor, forming altogether one of the rudest and most grotesque entrances imaginable. It is nearly as high, bat narrower than, and otherwise very diiFerent from Yordas Cave, near Ingleton. We were so fortunate as to visit this place after heavy rains, which had so swelled the river . as to render our passage up this curious cavern very difficult, and not without danger. After travelling along these gloomy mansions about SOi yards, with a very gentle descent, and winding a little to the right, we found it necessary to return. Nothing can be conceived more alarming than the appearance of this rugged cavern : the nura- GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 277 beiless large chinks and crevices grinning on eve- ry side ; the dark passage before us, unfathom- able to the eye ; the massy lumps of rocks pro- jecting from the roof and walls ; and the dashing of the water from rock to rock, heard at a dis- tance in awful yells— all conspire to alarm the stranger unaccustomed to such scenes. This, however, is not always the case ; for in dry sea- sons the cave may be explored, not only without danger, but even with pleasure to the curious in these singular works of Nature. The water then, instead of forming a disagreeable appends age, delights the ear with its harmonious tinkling — while the beautiful hanging petrifactions, and other curious accompaniments of this subterra- neous passage, please the eye.— ^We were inform- ed by the miller, that this cavern, in a dry sea- son, might be explored with ease to the length of 150 yards, when the roof drops at once so low, that it is necessary to creep three or four yards ; after which it opens into another spacious apart- ment for about ten yards, and again falls, obli- ging the visitant to proceed, as before, a little way in a creeping posture ; soon after this, he is finally stopped by a deep pool of water, formed by the brook, which accompanied the tourist du« ring the whole of this subterraneous excursion. The roof, according to the information we receiv- edj sometimes rises to the height of twelve GS 278s A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; Oli fifteen yards 5 the apartments are often spacious, and the walls curiously coloured, and encrusted with a sort of spar. The little river, which finds a course along this singular cave, appears near Carnforth, a village on the road to Kendal, after running under ground about two miles. This is said to have been proved by the husks of oaveight of the stones and washing of the tide, would soon bring them to the channel. This bank would be about 8S0 yards long, and should, I believe, be seven 3'ards high, ten yards at the base, and six yards at the top^ and would consequently contain 49,280 cubic yards, which, allowing each yard to cost one sliilling would amount to c^2464. The bridge I should slate at .^1000. The whole length of the cat from hence to the Loyne is about 21,340 yards : to contain the greatest land floods, it should not, I presume, be less than 43 yards wide, and the average depth four yards ; the number of yards, upon that position, to be excavated would, therefore, be 2,902,240, which, at 4yt?. per yard, would cost .^54,417. Where the rocks or high ground upon the coast renders it necessary to keep within the tide-mark, the earth to be taken out will form a bank on the sea side of the cut. A number of bridges might be necessary to erect ; however, till the profits of the land to be recovered should enable the pro- prietors to build them of stone throughout, I GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 311 should propose temporary bridges of wood, ex- cept one for the principal road ; the expence of •which we call j^lOOO, and that of tlie wooden ones ^3600. ^^ The next thing to be considered is the diversion of Lindlepool, which might either be brought into the Kent, as shewn in the plan, or taken the contrary way into Cartmel Sands. In either case, as it is an inconsiderable rivulet, and the ground generally very low and soft, I shall not state the expence at more than .^5300; inclu- ding the necessary bridges. "Afterwards, when the sea had nearly embanked itself, it might be found convenient to raise sand banks a few feet high, in order to keep off high spring tides : the expence of which, added to that of purchasing ground for the new channels of the rivers, I shall state at .g^l3,000. " These Sands are the principal objects of attention ; but should their recovery be effected, it would be found very convenient, as well as practicable, to use similar means in obtaining a part of the Ulverston Sands. A bank might be thrown over the channel, as marked in the plan, with a bridge at the end of it ; the fresh water then confined to the shore till it entered Ulver- 31:2 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR stoQ Moss, through which an easy cut would bring it to the Sands again, either at Plumpton«. hall, or at the mouth of the new canal, where there is plenty of rock, at hand to secure it. At the latter place it might be of service to the shipping, by opening the channel. " By that operation, about 1600 acres would be gained. Evjery expence attending which I estimate at ^20,000. /' The acquisition of at least of 4600 acres may also be effected by the same means upon the Duddon or Millam Sands. A long strip of marsh land, extending along each side, renders the task of diverting the rivers, comparatively, an easy one. The Duddon might be conveyed along the north side, and fixed, at its entrance in- to the sand, with limestone rock : while the ri- vulet called Kirby-pool might, with little ob- struction, be taken down the other side, if we except the intervention of a little rising rocky ground extending about 100 yards. That, bow- ever, is no object in a work of such magnitude. The whole expence of this undertaking, I ani persuaded, would not exceed .^26,000. ** Let us now collect the several suras es- timated : — GtJIDE TO THE LAKES. 313 Expence of the bank below Dallam Tower, .... ^2,463 Ditto of the bridge at the end thereof, 1,000 Ditto of the cut from thence to the Loyne, 54,4l7 Ditto of the bridges over the cut, .......; 4,000 Ditto of sand banks and purchasing ground, 13,000 Ditto for diverting Lindle-pool, 5,300 Ditto of gaining part of Uiverston Sands, ..>.... 20,000 Ditto of gaining part of Duddon Sands, 26,000 Interest of money sunk, till the land to be gained becomes profitable; salaries of engineers, &c.with contingent expences, I shall call 73,219 Total expences about . .£200,000 The land that might reasonably be expected to be gained upon the Lancaster, &c. Sands, is — Acres 32,510 Ditto upon the Duddon Sands, 4,600 Ditto upon the Ulverston Sands, 1,600 Total number of acres, 38,710 '*' We are now to consider what benefits would accrue from the execution of the above projects. ^' In the first place, a regular connection would take place between Lancaster and White- haven, by a post road, which would doubtless be laid out between those places ; by which not on- ly these commercial towns, but all the intervening country, would be much benefited. Whereas at 2 E S14 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR present, a person travelling between Lancaster and Ul version 5 Ravenglass, Whitehaven, &c. must either take a very circuitous route through a wild, mountainous country, or wait a precari- ous^ dangerous passage over the Sands. A re- flection on the number of unfortunate people who are annually lost in crossing these deceitful Sands, touches the nerve of humanity. That dreadful circumstance would be remedied by banishing the tide. But although the philanthropic mind may consider these matters as great grievances, others may look upon them as provincial evils only, and the eflfects of their removal equally confined. — Another advantage that would take place would be more universally felt. Here are tracts of sand, containing 38,710 acres, which, at present, instead of being beneficial to the com- munity, are a general nuisance. If this land could be recovered by laying out the sum of r. JOLLIE AND SONS, PRINTERS, CAR1I8I.E. t v\^ 5^1 ^